A handbook for hikers on this scenic and challenging trail
Nathan D. Strange is a writer and naturalist based in Lexington, Kentucky.
A Guide to the Knobstone Trail I n d i a n a’s L o n g e s t F o o t pa t h
A G u i d e t o t h e K n o b s t o n e T r a il
One of the most beautiful footpaths in the country, the Knobstone Trail offers a spectacularly rugged, 58-mile trek through 40,000 acres of forested land in southern Indiana. A comprehensive guide to this scenic footpath, A Guide to the Knobstone Trail provides readers with all they need to know to make the best of hiking this challenging trail. Charts indicate camping and water locations, while up-to-date maps provide topographical information, elevations, and where horse trails intersect hiking trails. First-person accounts, trip diaries, local lore about trees, wildflowers, and animal life, plus the latest GPS information and elevation data are included. Well-illustrated with more than 60 photographs and 19 maps, this easily portable guide is an essential backpacker’s tool for a safe and memorable adventure.
Strange
Outdoors Natur e
$19.95
University Press
Bloomington & Indianapolis iupress.indiana.edu 1-800-842-6796
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Indiana Natural Science Gillian Harris, editor Paperback Original Printed in China
Indiana
INDIANA
Nathan D. Strange Foreword by Marion T. Jackson
11/10/10 3:56 PM
A Guide to the Knobstone Trail
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Indiana Natural Science Gillian Harris, editor
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A Guide to the Knobstone Trail I N DI A N A’ S L ONG E S T F O O T PAT H
Nathan D. Strange Foreword by M A R I O N T . J A C K S O N
INDIANA UNIVERSITY PRESS Bloomington & Indianapolis
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This book is a publication of Indiana University Press 601 North Morton Street Bloomington, Indiana 47404-3797 USA www.iupress.indiana.edu Telephone ordersâ•… 800-842-6796 Fax ordersâ•… 812-855-7931 Orders by e-mailâ•…
[email protected] © 2011 by Nathan Strange All rights reserved No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. The Association of American University Presses’ Resolution on Permissions constitutes the only exception to this prohibition. ∞ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of the American National Standard for Information Sciences— Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI Z39.48-1992. Manufactured in China Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Strange, Nathan D. A guide to the Knobstone Trail : Indiana’s longest footpath / Nathan D. Strange, foreword by Marion T. Jackson. p. cm. — (Indiana natural science) Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-253-22297-8 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Hiking—Indiana—Knobstone Trail—Guidebooks. 2. Knobstone Trail (Ind.)—Guidebooks. I. Title. GV199.42.I6.A2K667 2011 917.72—dc22 2010027453 1â•… 2â•… 3â•… 4â•… 5â•…â•… 16â•… 15â•… 14â•… 13â•… 12â•… 11
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To the trail, which gave me direction in life and distilled in me the true meaning of conservation
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The Knobstone Trail: Indiana’s longest footpath. Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
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Contents
Foreword by Marion T. Jacksonâ•… ix Acknowledgmentsâ•… xi Introductionâ•… 1 Part 1 History and Perspectives
1 The Lion’s Share of the Workâ•… 9
2 The Rough and Hard Laborâ•… 17
3 The End of an Eraâ•… 23
4 Elements of the Knobstoneâ•… 29
Part 2 Hiking the Knobstone Tr ail
5 Journey Preparationâ•… 41
6 The Deam Lake State Recreation Areaâ•… 53
7 Deam Lake to Jackson Roadâ•… 55
8 Jackson Road to New Chapelâ•… 67
9 New Chapel to Leotaâ•… 85
10 Leota to Elk Creek Lakeâ•… 97
11 Elk Creek Lake to John Stuart Oxley Memorialâ•… 107
12 John Stuart Oxley Memorial to Spurgeon Hollowâ•… 113
13 Delaney Creek Parkâ•… 119
14 Closing Contemplationâ•… 125
Part 3 Supplementary Materials Directions to Parks and Trailheadsâ•… 129 Evolution of the Trail Mapsâ•… 131 Bibliographyâ•… 135 Indexâ•… 137
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Foreword
Perhaps the most common perception of what Indiana is like for visitors who cross our state is what they see flashing by their vehicle windows as they cruise across the Central Tillplain Region at 60, 70, or 80 miles per hour on I-70. To them, the essentially flat expanse of Indiana’s corn and soybean fields is Indiana. One of our major objectives in publishing The Natural Heri tage of Indiana was to alert its readers to the amazing diversity of landscapes, habitats, vegetation, and plant, animal, and geological diversity that truly is Indiana. The extent to which we aÂ�chieved our mission is known only to those who study and absorb our book. To ever truly know intimately, and to understand fully, any portion of Planet Earth, we must slow our pace and look closely and intently, because the closer and more carefully we look, the farther we are able to see! As Edward Abbey’s quote from “Walking” that introduces chapter 9 of this volume says so eloquently, “Walking takes longer . . . than any other known form of locomotion except crawling. Thus it stretches time and prolongs life. Life is already too short to waste on speed.” This book is about the joy (and frustration) of walking the longest continuous trail in the state of Indiana, some 50 miles of the steepest, most isolated, and most rugged landscape in our state. To do so, you will not only discover what the Knobstone topography, and its life, are truly like. You most likely will also discover yourself, as few other activities will enable you to do. I urge you to read A Guide to the Knobstone Trail at a slow walk. Then, even if you never set foot to any mile of the trail, you will become far better informed about what Indiana is truly like. Respectfully, Marion T. Jackson, editor, The Natural Heritage of Indiana ix
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Acknowledgments
Special thanks are entitled to Dale Brier of the Indiana De� partment of Natural Resources for setting aside time, tools, and an endless supply of public records from which the many hours of research for this book have evolved. My utmost appreciation goes to Jerry Pagac and Joe Payne for assisting me in telling this story and for sharing the fruits of their knowledge and experience. This book would not exist except for the valiant generosity of those involved in its creation. I wish to express particular gratitude to Michael A. Homoya, Katie Gremillion-Smith, and Mike Satterwhite of the Department of Natural Resources for ensuring the accuracy of the information about the flora and fauna and the trails design mentioned in this trail guide. This book is dedicated to the humble efforts of many volunteers from the Young Adult Conservation Corps, the Indi� anapolis Hiking Club, and the Youth Conservation Board of Washington County; to the staffs of Clark State Forest, JacksonWash�ington State Forest, Delaney Creek Park, and the Hoosier Hikers Council; and to the entire Indiana Department of Natural Resources for their outstanding patience and understanding throughout the project. It is because of these people that the trail was born and still survives. Sadly, many others not noted within the text have either moved on, passed away, or are no longer traceable. What has been left from the voluntary work of local organizations and conservation groups is a trail deeply etched with history and forever recognized as a state landmark.
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A Guide to the Knobstone Trail
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Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
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Introduction
As recently as 200 years ago, forests covered approximately 85% of Indiana. As European expansion moved across the country, typically only high-quality trees were removed as merchantable timber, leaving the remaining poor-quality forests to undergo habitual disturbance, if not total clearing. Forests were often clear-cut and burned to open the land for grazing livestock or for growing farm crops. Early farmers often lacked the knowledge of how to preserve the soil by using conservation practices that are in general use today. As a result the topsoil was rapidly depleted of its nutrients, if not totally eroded away. The poorer remaining subsoil was unable to support continued agriculture. At the same time, wildlife populations were devastated by overhunting and loss of habitat. As America entered the Great Depression of the 1930s, the natural world was left in disarray, creating large tracts of land for sale. When being purchased by the state to create state forests during the early 1900s, Indiana’s forest lands were described as cut, burnt, and eroded areas that had very little value left for landowners. Starting with the acquisition of 2,000 acres of degraded farm land, the Clark State Reserve became the first state-owned forest land in Indiana in 1903. As time progressed, it would grow in size with further land acquisitions to its present 24,000 acres and would later be renamed the Clark State Forest. While purchasing large tracts of abused or abandoned land, jobs of preservation were created by the government to work the property and ease unemployment. One of the most notable government agencies was the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC). The CCC of the 1930s played an important role in the recovery process by planting thousands of acres of hardwood and pine 1
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a g u I dE t o t h E k n oB s t on E t r a I l
Map of Indiana showing bedrock physiographic units.
trees on the eroding and bare ground. Any already present forests were allowed to recover by natural succession. As the CCC was restoring the region, the bulk of the land that now makes up the Jackson-Washington State Forest became another area 2
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I n t r o d uc t i on
saved and restored between 1930 and 1950. With time and future acquisitions the forest eventually grew to nearly 18,000 acres. Over time the soil recovered, providing farmers with wide open fields to raise their grain. The forests, however, have never fully recovered, changing the landscape of Indiana forever. Currently Indiana’s forests cover only 19% of the state; half of the forests are no more than 100 years old. While the more than 4 million acres of forest land today is far from the 85% of the state originally forested, a steady increase in forest land occurred during the last half of the twentieth century. The recovery of Indiana’s forests is due in part to innovations in forestry techniques, the public’s desire to conserve its remaining woodlands, and intensive efforts to reforest many marginal lands. Indiana’s hills were once described by some geologists after a siltstone formation called the Borden Strata. This sedimentary rock stretches across the southern section of Indiana and gives the state its tall rocky ridges. Since early writers often described the land by its visual topography, the area received a title derived from what early explorers called knobs, or isolated roundtopped hills. As geological understanding increased, terms such as soft freestone of the knobs, knob formations, knob building stone, knob sandstone, and eventually knobstone were used to describe the geological area. Once thought by some in the scientific community to be a misconstrued slang term, there was a push to abolish the use of the term “knobstone” and to officially title the rugged geological region of southern Indiana as the Borden area. However, over time the people’s natural description held and developed into what is now known as the Knobstone Escarpment. As remnants of an unglaciated plateau, the Knobstone Escarpment which the trail follows lies directly between the Norman Upland and Scottsburg Lowland of southern Indiana. This escarpment, which is the most prominent regional typographic feature in Indiana, covers a distance of roughly 110 miles in south-central Indiana. The Norman Upland and the Scottsburg Lowland run from the Ohio River north to Monroe
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County. The area is characterized by steep drop-offs and spectacular views throughout the long string of high ridgelines and ravines. Exhibiting a terrain not normally seen within the average Indiana landscape of fl at farmland, the Knobstone region remains largely remote and reclusive, as urban development continues to avoid the area. Today these ridges provide a forest pathway that is often underestimated in spite of its steep slopes, high scenic views, and low, solemn valleys. Th anks to the efforts of many individuals (some not mentioned in this book), between 1977 and 1990 a historic trail was created, forever changing the southern Indiana landscape and trail practices of the Department of Natural Resources. The creation of the Knobstone Trail, and building of a long-distance foot trail system, was an entirely new endeavor for the Indiana state government. Recently trails have been created faster and more efficiently with the development of the Global Positioning System (GPS) and computers. Erosion problems have been reduced by using grade reversals, switchbacks, rolling grade dips, and waterbars. Sound confusing? It can be, for trail building has become a science of its own. Serious ecological issues such as trail washouts and soil erosion can arise by simply blazing a trail through the forest without taking into consideration the slope of the land and the ecological characteristics of its natural surroundings.
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Rock outcroppings that line the trail contain years of history and carvings from past travelers.
Although the science behind trail building has become enhanced during recent decades, the hand tools used to forge the ground and the actual footpath have changed very little. Aside from chainsaws, most of the equipment used to construct and maintain government trails are traditional hand tools such as bow saws, double- and single-bitted axes, combi tools, and fire rakes. To simply clear trails of brush and vines, workers typically use bank blades, brush hooks, lopping shears, Swedish brush axes, and grass whips. How do maintenance crews get all of this equipment miles into the woods to keep the pathway clear? Nine times out of ten they simply carry it in on their backs. During the trail’s creation, workers and volunteers labored through overgrown unmarked forest on some of the steepest hillsides in Indiana.
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1
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History & Perspectives
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The Knobstone Trail in 1980.╇ Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources 8
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The Lion’s Share of the Work
1
Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail. R alph Waldo Emerson
With the creation of the National Forest Roads and Trails Act passed by the United States Congress on October 13, 1968, a surge of outdoor interest in trail construction began to unfold. Trails were created to promote land and forest preservation as well as to educate the public about the nation’s historic and natural resources. Thanks to many sympathetic politicians and government officials, the act generated interest in long-distance trails. The famed Appalachian Trail, for example, received the political backing and financial support needed to officially map a permanent route of the pre-existing trail in 1971. Similar action began to take place all across the country as new natural resource departments were formed and outdoor clubs produced much-needed volunteers. With this added interest, outdoor recreational principles began to fall into place. To define how volunteer help and funds should be distributed, the Indiana Department of Natural Resources (DNR) produced a State Comprehensive Outdoor Recreation Plan (SCORP). The resultant 5-year strategic document set within the time frame of 1970–1975 examined Indiana’s recreational resources and needs and qualified the state for federal outdoor recreation grant dollars through the Land and Water Conservation Fund (LWCF). This plan aimed at assessing the state of recreation use
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Area photo from original Indiana DNR helicopter—June 1978. Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
and opportunities through research, with the hope of protecting natural resources and improving recreation opportunities. After graduating from the University of Oregon in 1972 with a master of science degree in park administration and planning, a young man named Jerry Pagac spent 2 years working on Indiana’s SCORP. In 1973, a new Streams and Trails coordinator position was created by the DNR in the Division of Outdoor Recreation, and Pagac was promoted into the position. Part of his new role included working with citizen groups, governmental agencies, and nonprofit organizations to plan, acquire, and develop local trail projects. In addition to trail responsibilities, it was Pagac’s job to develop a system of natural, scenic, and recreational rivers, which had recently been authorized by the Indiana General Assembly. He began studying DNR deed recÂ� ord (ownership) maps and seized on the idea that it might be possible to create a very long trail by connecting 2 already existing state-owned properties, Clark State Forest and JacksonWashington State Forest.
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T h e Li on ’s S h a r e o f t h e W or k
In 1975, while still completing his requirements for a master of environmental design degree from the University of Calgary, Joe Payne was 1 of 2 young men to be hired to assist Pagac in the Streams and Trails Section of the Division of Outdoor Recreation. The trail idea was on hold for most of the next 3 years while time was spent trying to bring streams into the Scenic Rivers program. Money was scarce and a great deal of land would need to be acquired to connect the 2 state forests. Pagac and Payne quickly discovered the value of using the DNR’s helicopter. By using the view from the air and topographical maps of the area in conjunction, they were better able to plan the route of a future Knobstone Trail. In 1977, Pagac was again promoted, becoming director of the Division of Outdoor Recreation when then director Bill Walters was promoted to director of the Division of State Parks. Payne took Pagac’s place as Streams and Trails coordinator and assumed the lead role. This proved to be a positive move on all fronts. Walters was able to win the support of the DNR director, Joe Cloud, in convincing the General Assembly to invest heavily in the high-profile Indiana state parks and other DNR properties, which had not been done in decades. With this added strength Pagac became successful in moving the Division of Outdoor Recreation forward as well, including establishing the Indiana Heritage Program, a data base for endangered and threatened species and habitats in the state. This led Payne to become the perfect person to carry on Pagac’s initial vision to create Indiana’s first long-distance hiking trail. Of course the biggest obstacle to developing the trail remained: the gaps of privately owned property connecting the 2 state forests would still need to converge. Pagac had presented that challenge to many people over the years and was ecstatic when he received a call one day from Dennis Wolkoff, then director of Indiana’s chapter of The Nature Conservancy (TNC). Wolkoff, who remembered seeing Pagac’s early map of a potentially 60-mile trail, had learned that the McCormick Timber Company needed to sell their extensive landholdings.
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The company owner, Bob McCormick, was coincidentally a big supporter of TNC and the state forests. When Wolkoff realized the company owned the key tract (nearly 1,100 acres) that was the missing piece of the Knobstone Trail puzzle, he could not believe it. In order to evaluate the condition of the land the three men met on site, discovering the area had been heavily timbered. Despite the condition, they immediately knew it would provide the linkage they needed to connect Elk Creek Lake State Fishing Area (halfway to Jackson-Washington State Forest) with Clark State Forest. Wolkoff and Pagac realized it had been a number of years since the DNR had received any substantial land acquisition money, but Wolkoff told Pagac that TNC would be willing to buy the property with the requirement that the DNR would buy it back from them the following year. The land was eventually appraised at $445,000. Among his staff, DNR Director Joe Cloud was somewhat feared, exhibiting a gruff demeanor while questioning most projects harshly. Pagac had learned from experience that trying to persuade Director Cloud with logic, or otherwise “selling” an idea, was nearly impossible. Pagac had pondered the best way to approach Cloud, then responded with a bit of cleverness and psychology. After working late one evening, Pagac peeked in and asked for a moment of Cloud’s time. Instead of going over the great opportunity and telling Cloud that TNC was willing to help, he put on a long face and proceeded to tell Cloud about an ironic situation in which they were about to experience a disastrous missed opportunity. He showed Cloud the map on which he had drawn in the lumber company’s ownership. It made it graphically obvious that the McCormick land perfectly bridged the gap needed to make the Knobstone Trail vision a reality. At that point Pagac paused, shaking his head and saying, “What a sad situation . . . we finally have the perfect opportunity but don’t have the money and won’t even be able to ask for any until next year. By that time it will be too late.” Pagac was hoping that Cloud would take the bait and he did. Cloud said derisively,
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Volunteers—October 1983. Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
“Why don’t you get Wolkoff to help out by buying the land for you?” Pagac feigned surprise and said, “I can try, Joe, but TNC usually only buys natural areas for nature preserves.” Pagac knew that Wolkoff was already on board but was insistent that Joe Cloud give his word that DNR would ask for the money in their next budget request. Toward that end, he wanted a personal commitment from the chairman of the Senate Finance Committee and the House Ways & Means Committee chairman. With Joe Cloud’s blessing in hand, Wolkoff and Pagac visited the Finance chairman with map in hand. After their pitch, the 2 legislative leaders made the commitment. On March 31, 1979, approximately 1,047 acres were officially purchased by TNC for $349,932. Four months later the land was transferred over to the DNR for $360,411.56, covering TNC’s interest and expenses. 13
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Volunteer groups and work days—October 1983. Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
On-the-ground field work on the trail began in 1977, as Payne began laying out the trail within Deam Lake State Recreation Area and the southern part of Clark State Forest. He took advantage of the existing dirt paths that were the result of previous illegal dirt bike activity, other pathways used by hunters or 14
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T h e Li on ’s S h a r e o f t h e W or k
horseback riders, and remnants of timber harvest roads. This served as a starting point and led to a great deal of bushwhacking to flag a temporary path using an altimeter, compass, and map. Payne quickly realized he would need help if the trail was ever going to become a reality. At the same time a new program, the Young Adult Conservation Corps (YACC), was providing young workers at Deam Lake State Recreation Area. YACC was the result of an amendment to the Federal Comprehensive Employment and Training Act; its purpose was to provide jobs and training for unemployed and out-of-school young people between the ages of 16 and 23. The YACC workers at Deam Lake State Recreation Area were involved in cleaning up the beach and carrying out timber stand improvement practices. Seeing that he could use this new program, Payne soon had the crew of 11 working from April through October on the Knobstone Trail. This lasted for the next 2 years and resulted in many miles of new trail.
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Joe Payne walking across a wooden structure along the trail—July 1980. Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
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The Rough and Hard Labor
2
We still need conservationists who will attempt the impossible, achieving it because they aren’t aware how impossible it is. David Brower, Wildlands in Our Civilization
While trail construction was proceeding northward, the Knobstone Trail (KT) was being planned in such a manner as to not hinder timber management or wildlife management. By 1980, the trail had reached the New Chapel Trailhead, and work on the 9-mile extension to the Leota Trailhead was ready to begin. The section of the trail extension near the Leota Trailhead would be in a backcountry area, a new classification for a part of a state forest where backpack camping in undesignated areas, without any sanitary facilities, would be allowed. Only on early maps is the area titled as such. Ultimately the bulk of the trail construction heading north was done by trail volunteers. Volunteer groups such as the Indianapolis Hiking Club and the Youth Conservation Board of Washington County accomplished a great deal. Because of the dedication of these and other groups, on occasion it was noted in trail reports that it was a challenge to come up with enough work to keep them busy for an entire day. With the help of the Indiana Wilderness Challenge program, the trail extension from the Leota Trailhead to Elk Creek Lake State Fishing Area began in November of 1981. The Indiana Wilderness Challenge was a program for young men and women ages 14 to 17 who had a will to become better acquainted with their inner strengths and become productive 17
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Joe Payne walking across wooden structures on the original part of the trail in Clark State Forest—July 1980. Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
community members. Jerry Pagac had served on their board of directors since the group’s inception. Funding for the program primarily came from the Lilly Endowment, the Irwin-SweeneyMiller Foundation, and federal grants. Altogether 20 youths and 4 supervisors hiked the entire trail. They constructed more than a mile of new trail including waterbars, steps, and bridges. The group spent its nights in the primitive camping areas along the trail or at Deam Lake State Recreation Area. Eventually, 368 hours were volunteered by the group. The work was hard, in a harsh environment surrounded by poison ivy and mosquitoes, and often the crew would have to brave the elements and work through hot, dirty, and wet days. Joe Payne enjoyed working with Clark State Forest property manager Walt Zak. They cooperated and together were able to minimize management conflicts. Materials were often provided by the state forest for the construction of signs and posts from a sawmill located on the forest property. Zak initially thought 18
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Volunteer group—October 1983. Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
Payne and his crew were a bit crazy. He could not quite understand the thrill and fun connected with the rigors of trail layout and construction and the recreational activity of long-distance backcountry hiking and camping. Eventually, Zak and others caught on to the excitement of what was being created. Longdistance trails were sprouting up all over the nation. Jay Martindale was one of the early Streams and Trails specialists who worked on the KT, creating a trail-building manual to guide construction. The philosophy in routing the trail included an attempt to vary the type of terrain and views afforded from the trail. Other Streams and Trails specialists who worked for Payne and Pagac included Neal Overbey, Tom Kidd, Rex Becker, Jack Lash, Paul Sherwood, and Mike Martin. They got additional help when intermittent seasonal positions 19
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Scot Smith, companion Nanook, and Bob Smolik—south Streams and Trails field crew—1988.╇ Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
were approved, and eventually a 2-man south crew was charged with trail construction and supervising volunteer groups. Scot Smith and Bob Smolik filled these positions for the next several seasons, helping with the completion stages of the KT on the northern end. The intermittent employees were limited to 180 days of work per year. The trail was routed to take advantage of clear spots and valleys as well as high points that would give a great outward view. Many of the hilltops were so deeply wooded that all one could see for miles were trees. In the era before computer-aided technology, trail layout was solely based on topographic maps and information available from using compasses, altimeters, and rangefinders. In some cases, the trail had to cross at a theoretical point where 2 corners of state property touched, necessitating an educated guess as to exactly where the property lines fell. In many cases the land owned by the state was squeezed so tightly between 2 pieces of privately owned land that there was no way to avoid constructing the trail directly over a steep hill, making the section incredibly difficult to traverse. Communicating by 2-way radio, a 2-man team with loaded backpacks entered the forest and moved in a streamlined 20
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T h e R oug h a n d H a r d L a b o r
fashion each day to extend the trail. Three- to four-day trips ended on many occasions with the men dragging themselves out of the woods to a motel room in Scottsburg for showers and clean clothes, followed by cheeseburgers and beers. It helped to be young and enthralled by the empowering experience of the forest. There was never an argument between the men if they needed to occasionally stay an extra night along the trail as long as they could make it back home on Friday night.
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Joe Payne posing next to the Indiana DNR helicopter prior to leaving the Indianapolis airport for site planning of the northern section of KT—June 1986.╇ Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
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The End of an Era
3
The future is not some place we are going to, but one we are creating. The paths to it are not found, they are made, and the activity of making them changes both the maker and the destination. John Scha ar
Seven more miles of the Knobstone Trail to Elk Creek Lake State Fishing Area had been constructed, and there was no longer any additional connecting land in public ownership that was necessary to extend the trail. After the purchase of the McCormick Timber Company property, funding for land acquisition was extremely tight. To achieve the next step in extending the trail, the Division of Outdoor Recreation continued working with the Division of Fish and Wildlife to buy the remainder of what is now Elk Creek Lake State Fishing Area. The Division of Fish and Wildlife had already owned 310 acres since 1961, including a 47-acre lake. Through steady cooperation and effort, the DNR was able to add 346 acres to the Elk Creek area in 1982. This provided needed property for extending the trail. The pristine land provided hikers and hunters with a variety of ridgetops and bottomlands, creating a perfect wildlife habitat for deer, grouse, and wild turkey. A poem about the area by an unknown author was published in a 1986 bulletin, Fish and Wildlife Restoration in Indiana. According to the bulletin’s author, the poem was recovered from an Elk Creek document written the night before the formal dedication.
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Ode to Elk Creek O, rugged valley among the hills, Tucked under the Knobstones’ crest This structure traps your brooks and rills And creates this pool upon your breast. Not soon shall you—unto the north— When come torrential rains, Discharge your angry waters forth On Muscatatuckian plains Tho’ now by man-made fingers held, Does not thy spirit see That outlet gate amidst dirt weld Cannot forever stifle thee? It may seem Man’s had his way And that his dam has bridled thee, But still your waters find their way Through Man’s barriers to the sea This earthen dam on which we stand, Carved out by ’dozer blade, Dooms not the waters of your land; They are just temporarily delayed! Man thinks his brain can Nature mold, And ponders what his hand has wrought, But when geologic times unfold ’Twill prove a fleeting thought. Man still chips at Nature’s power And seeks to substitute his plan But he heeds to Pope in the final hour: “Presume not God to scan.”
Extending the trail past Elk Creek Lake State Fishing Area proved to be very difficult because the majority of the land was still in private ownership and a safe crossing of State Road 56 had to be developed. However, Payne researched landowner records, viewed the area by ground and helicopter, and began working with 7 private landowners. By 1984, he had negotiated the acquisition of approximately 350 acres of additional public land for extension of the trail, 80 acres of which were part of a donation to TNC by the Baker and Harger families. The next step for Payne was to work out cooperation with the Washington County facility, Delaney Creek Park, which was tucked into the hills of land adjacent to Jackson-Washington State Forest property. The park managers were immediately
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T h e E n d of a n E r a
interested in getting the Knobstone Trail tied into their recreational area. Delaney Creek Park already had a well-defined 3-mile trail through a valley in the southern part of the property, and a rough 5-mile pathway along the remote ridge in the park’s northern section. The already existing trails provided the possibility for hiking an 8-mile loop from the developed campground. Delaney Creek Park also had the plan to provide an alternative to the Spurgeon Hollow Trailhead for accessing the Knobstone Trail from the northern end. Payne agreed to help improve the 5-mile northern section of the loop trail, making it easier to find, use, and tie the 8-mile loop trail into the Knobstone Trail. He knew there would be extra trail construction work, but the section of the trail along the ridge in Delaney Creek Park contained excellent backcountry camping sites, while the developed campground in the park provided a safe and convenient place for people to leave vehicles. Delaney Creek Park reciprocated by providing the DNR’s south Streams and Trails field crew a place to stay in the campground and a convenient base camp for workers for several years. By early 1990, all of the initial Knobstone Trail construction work was finished, and the trail was essentially the same as is currently in place. On April 20, 1990, a celebration and brief ceremony was held at Delaney Creek Park to commemorate the trail at its present 58-mile length, traversing 40,000 acres of public land. To commemorate the milestone, Connie Shidaker, graphic artist with the DNR’s Outdoor Indiana magazine, created a 3-dimensional, original wall sculpture with layers of hand-cut, colored construction paper depicting the trail winding through the forested knobs and around the lakes, with the Ohio River and Louisville in the foreground and Indianapolis in the background. Poster reproductions of the display were then printed for public distribution, adding a beautiful final touch to the long and involved trail project. Payne continued to check up on the trail and the trail maintenance crew (which the DNR continues to provide today) periodically on his way to and from other DNR Streams and Trails
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Hi s t o r y a n d Pe r s p e c t i v e s
Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
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projects for the next 3 years. In 1993, he left the DNR to take the position of superintendent of parks and recreation for the City of West Lafayette. Jerry Pagac retired in 2005, after serving the last 15 years of his 34-year career with DNR as the state park director. He is now the executive director of the Champaign County, Illinois, Forest Preserve District. Bill Walters had a career with the National Park Service, eventually becoming assistant regional director for the Pacific Northwest and chief of staff for the National Park Service director in Washington, D.C. Dennis Wolkoff stayed with TNC, becoming a regional director in the East. Most of the other people involved with the creation of the trail have also moved on and, much like the trail history over the years, seem to have become lost in the paperwork. The Knobstone Trail, created from 1977 to 1990, remains Indiana’s longest footpath and one of the state’s best-kept secrets. There has been little publicity about the trail, except for an Outdoor Indiana article identifying the trail as one of the state’s “great places” and an occasional newspaper article. Many local residents remain unaware that the trail even exists.
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Native American “sign tree” located on Trail #1 at Deam Lake. 28
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Elements of the Knobstone
4
We will be known by the tracks we leave behind. Dakota proverb
Native American directional trees represent a connection to the faded culture of those driven from their land by the European westward movement. Also referred to as marker trees, trail trees, message trees, water trees, thong trees, and buffalo trees, these oddly shaped occurrences resemble either a Z shape or half-rainbow arch. Steeped in mystery, they were once a common feature across the eastern forests of the United States. Formed by bending and tying down a young sapling, they served as a powerful tool in the daily cultural life of Native American people. These human-shaped guides served as an unwritten form of communication pointing toward significant sites such as large bodies of fresh water and tribal boundaries, and may have defined important trails. The typical Native American tree is a white oak with a bend several feet from its base, with the main trunk extending horizontally for several more feet. Often due to the weight or design of the original tie-down, the horizontal portion of the trunk generally slopes downward. One or more branches may grow upward from the horizontal section of the trunk, with each becoming a new supporting member for the upper branches of the tree. Since some directional trees have been dated as far back as 1707, the majority of these living formations have fallen due to age. Because of their connection to the past these trees should be documented and studied while they remain alive. 29
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Native American “sign tree” located just shortly past Deam Lake Trailhead. 30
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E l e m e n t s of t h e K n o b s t on e
Native American “sign tree” located near Mile Marker 21.
The cultures that perfected this form of communication have either died as well or lost any reason for continuing the practice. A day will come when no one alive will ever have seen a living Native American sign tree, thus documentation of the stories and pictures will be the trees’ final testament. As part of our national heritage, the few remaining trees not only serve as living relics to a lost civilization but now serve as a major point of interest along the Knobstone Trail. One of three known Native 31
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American trees located within the Knobstone area resides on Trail #1 of the Deam Lake State Recreation Area. The second is located within the first few yards of the Knobstone Trail starting from Mile Marker 0 and the Deam Lake Trailhead. The third is located a short distance from Mile Marker 21. These trees resemble the standard Native American tree design. A measurement of the age of these trees must be done to understand the timeline in which they have occurred. If any further trees are discovered, they can be documented at http:// mountainstewards.org as part of a program set up to study and track these magnificent pieces of history. The purpose of documenting the location on this website is to update everyone interested in the project and help the information to grow while there is still time. The winter is the best time to find the trees once the leaves and overgrown forests have died down. Trailheads The concern for the convenience and safety of trail workers and trail users led to the development of reasonably safe starting places, called trailheads, to park vehicles while on the trail. Six trailheads were originally established along the trail. DNR employees worked with Hall Sign Company in the summer of 1980 to complete the trailhead signs as well as others that indicated Motorized Vehicles and Horses Prohibited and Foot Traffic Only. The signs were installed using posts provided by Walt Zak and the Clark State Forest. The names of the trailheads generally relate to the nearest community or establishment. After the Knobstone Trail reached completion, a 12-mile segment between Elk Creek Lake State Fishing Area and Delaney Creek Park was still without a trailhead. In 1998–1999, a tragic and admirable event filled the gap, creating the John Stuart Oxley Memorial Trailhead. Born just 6 years before work on the Knobstone Trail began, John Stuart Oxley quickly progressed from being a sickly young child to pursuing athletic endeavors. By the age of 6 he had already begun swimming competitively with his Amateur
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Chris Johanningsmeier painting a newly installed trailhead sign— May 1999.╇ Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
Athletic Union swim team and later at Lafayette, Indiana’s, Jefferson High School, where he became captain and winner of the Mental Attitude Award his senior year. After graduation, John was in and out of Purdue University and working a variety of jobs. While trying to find his path in life, he worked in factories, restaurants, managing rental properties, and as a 33
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John Stuart Oxley hiking at the Grand Canyon.╇ Courtesy of Jerry Oxley
photographic darkroom technician. However, his favorite job was working as a hired hand on a farm, growing corn in the summer and tending feeder hogs and cattle in the winter. With direction from a wise circuit court judge and help from an excellent university guidance counselor, he entered Purdue’s School of Technology and majored in industrial distribution. Excelling in everything he set his mind to, John made the dean’s list several times and graduated in 1997 with honors. Following graduation, John accepted a job offer from Applied Mechanics, a Cleveland, Ohio–based distributor of industrial products, and after a fast-track training program he was assigned to a branch in Asheville, North Carolina, a location he had chosen for the nearby mountains and opportunities for outdoor activities. John always loved the outdoors and all of the activities it offered. He earned scuba diving and lifeguard certifications during high school and developed skills in bow and gun hunting, hiking, canoeing, and photography. He loved music, especially hard rock and blues. After high school, John became interested in mountain biking and pursued hiking with a passion. He hiked and camped in numerous locations ranging from his John Stuart Oxley. Courtesy of Jerry Oxley 34
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John Oxley with his best friend and hiking companion, Kaya. Courtesy of Jerry Oxley
E l e m e n t s of t h e K n o b s t on e
own backyard as a child to the bottom of the Grand Canyon as a young man. With his trusted Dalmatian, Kaya, John hiked and camped all over the United States, including the Adirondack Mountains, the Appalachian Trail, several places in the southwest, and, his favorite, Washington State. Typically the “map and compass guy” on trips with friends, John was a people person and always felt equally at home in any big city, small town, or peaceful countryside. In spite of some serious personal difficulties, John grew to be a very positive and influential person, and it was no surprise that he touched as many people’s lives as he did. Upon his death on April 26, 1998, an enormous empty spot in the world was left that could never be filled. Because of John’s affection for the outdoors his family wanted very much to have a memorial related to nature and to use the money from his memorial as a donation to a good cause. Having experience and memories of the Knobstone Trail, John’s friends referred the family to the Indiana Department of Natural Resources. On March 24, 1999, the idea of creating a memorial for John at a currently used grassy area located in Jackson-Washington State Forest was brought to the Natural Resources Commission. After a flood of donations and a substantial endowment by John’s family, a spot in Gibson Township along Banes Hollow Known as the “map and compass guy,” John looks over a map while hiking with friends.╇ Courtesy of Jerry Oxley
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Indiana DNR employees pose at the dedication ceremony for the John Stuart Oxley Memorial Trailhead—April 24, 1999. From left to right: Nila Armstrong, Mike Satterwhite, Chris Johanningsmeier, Emily Kress, Steve Morris, Dan Klankamp.╇ Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
Road was constructed and unveiled 2 days before the 1-year anniversary of John’s death, at noon on April 24, 1999. A memorial service was held and family members and friends were given the opportunity to plant flowers around the newly constructed wooden trailhead sign that bears John Stuart Oxley’s name. For the family, the memorial trailhead became more than a place to park and hike the trail; it was a way they could turn a tragic event into a facility that would serve hikers of the Knobstone Trail for years to come. Management in Time As the Department of Natural Resources has evolved, so has the way land is managed. As time goes by, the overlapping of ideas can be found in the form of trail re-routes and rusting management signs. Often observed along the trail are signs slowly being consumed by the trees to which they are nailed. These are the remnants from years past when the land was being actively managed by the Forest Service to improve the once-dying lands and to promote the growth of wildlife populations. Once the area had improved enough to allow such recreational activities as hiking and camping, many types of
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management were no longer needed. All that remains of the area as a forest preserve are these signs located throughout many of Indiana’s parks and other DNR areas. Older signs have even become slowly entrapped within the body of the trees. These signs are common in the New Chapel and Leota section. E l e m e n t s of t h e K n o b s t on e 37
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2
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Hiking the Knobstone Trail
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Small lakes that touch the edge of the trail are heavily overgrown with tree debris, water lilies, and grasses, providing a hiker wild scenery and undisturbed wildlife habitat. 40
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Journey Preparation
5
Pilgrimages seem to be almost instinctive, or at least from behaviors now so ingrained in our species that it’s difficult to distinguish between genetic and social origins. Of all the animals that migrate, we are surely among the most restless. But humans retain the influence of geophysical habitat in which they pass their formative years. And often, it seems, we are drawn back to our childhood homes—if not physically, then mentally; if not out of love, then out of curiosity; if not by necessity, then by desire. Through such ramblings we find out who we are. John Janov y, Jr., Vermilion Sea: A Natur alist’s Journey in Baja California
In the early stages of development, the trail once followed nothing but yellow ribbons; with the passage of time, the path has become well worn and well maintained. Most of the forest along the trail has been cut or logged at least one time, but this region in Indiana still best represents what the state looked like before being populated. The present trail gives the hiker a flavor of different types of terrain (rocky, muddy, steep, and grassy) while moving through a large selection of different types of forests and ecosystems. Because of illegal pathways created by all-terrain vehicles (ATVs) and horses, the trail can often cross over unmapped pathways that run back and forth across it. Although white blazes are well marked in overgrown areas, a good practice to keep in mind is to never go more than 5 minutes without looking for a trail marker. Another good idea to avoid getting offtrack is to look backward at the area just covered in order to keep in mind how the trail looks running both ways.
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Nicknamed “the little Appalachian Trail,” the Knobstone meanders for 58 miles through southern Indiana from Deam Lake State Recreation Area north to Delaney Creek Park in Jackson-Washington State Forest. Of those miles only 43 run as one singular trail, while the remaining miles make up 2 loops within the Delaney Creek Park. Despite the fact that other trails may surpass the Knobstone Trail in length, the Knobstone still has no true equal when comparing geographical landscape throughout the majority of the lower Midwest. The trees along the Knobstone Trail consist of a mix of hardwoods, primarily chestnut oak and hickory along the east, south, and west portions. Within the north, beech, sassafras, and maple mainly cover the area with respect to the high ridgetops, where Virginia pine stands flourish. These ridges support the most extensive coniferous forest in Indiana. Tulip trees, also known as yellow poplars, have the highest concentration toward the north, especially within the Delaney Creek Park area. A diverse collection of woodlands surrounds the path, glorifying the area with incomparable fall colors. Autumn leaves begin to change around the first of October and reach the height of brilliant golden yellows, oranges, and reds by early November. Once the leaves have fallen, the ridgetops open up to a clear view of the surrounding country hills and small towns. Combined with a powdery blanket of snow, the trail in the deep of winter is silent. As ice and frozen rain form, steeper hills can become very slick and extremely hard to climb. More than 60 habitat types have been identified within the state of Indiana, making it home to an incredibly diverse list of wildlife. On average there are about 410 native birds that fill the forests with their melodious songs, including the brightly colored cardinal and the wood thrush. Living throughout Indiana, over 750 species of nongame, endangered, and threatened
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Adopted as the state bird of Indiana in 1933, the cardinal (Cardinalis cardinalis) was named by early American settlers after Catholic cardinals who dressed in bright red robes. Common in gardens, meadows, and woodlands, a cardinal is rarely seen without its mate. While remaining together throughout the year, during the winter months the bond is relaxed. Due to their happy “cheer, cheer, cheer” song, Photograph by Brian Gasdorf cardinals were once highly popular as domesticated caged birds. Today, however, by state law it is illegal to hunt or capture the bird. Although it is the most common thrush (Hylocichla mus telina) along the trail today, experts believe the wood thrush was much more common 100 years ago. With its flute-like “eo-lie” call, the thrush often fills the forest with an upscale harmony throughout the daylight hours. With eyes well adapted for gloomy, poorly lit locales, spring migrants arrive in southern Indiana around the middle of April, eating the area’s insects, worms, and berries.
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wildlife make the state their home, including a wide collection of mammals, reptiles, amphibians, freshwater mussels, fish, and birds.
Hi k i n g t h e K n ob s t on e T r a i l
Planning Your Trip Before starting out, study the route of the trail and plan accordingly on how many miles will be traveled in a day. Keep in mind that the average hiker walks about 2 miles an hour. In some parts of the Knobstone that speed is hard to maintain when crossing over high, steep hills. The autumn months bring on shorter daylight hours and less time to hike, while summer months often contain days of extreme heat, when miles covered in backcountry areas should be limited. Be sure you are familiar with all the options of time, alternate routes, and weather conditions. Always carry a first-aid kit, map, compass, extra food, and water. Remember to register at the nearest property office or gatehouse or, at the very least, inform a friend or relative of your travel plans, route, and when you plan to return. Most important is to have a plan and stick to it. Horse versus Human An ongoing controversy continues between humans and animals. Although not noted on any recently printed Knobstone Trail map, several long-standing horse trails cross over the KT throughout its full length. Using horse trail maps provided by Clark State Forest, these horse trails have been layered over the current Knobstone Trail maps provided in this book. The majority of these trails consist of several loops connected to one another, then attached to the Clark State Forest through a group of extension trails and fire lanes. Each horse trail that crosses the KT may be a new route or the same trail crossed several times. This happens so often that it can in fact become hard to keep track without a map of what horse trail is being crossed and where it leads. Attempts have been made to restrict horse riders from the trail due to the damage the large animals cause to the terrain. 44
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The difference in the Knobstone and the frequently crossing horse trails is evident by the amount of damage done to the terrain. Here, the Mountain Grove horse trail intersection collects water after a rainfall.
In some areas of the Clark State Forest, parts of the Knobstone Trail have even become impassable in the summer months due to the deep mud pits that have formed from animal hoofs tilling the ground into swamps. The majority of the problem with this combination of trail systems is simply confusion on the part of horse riders who are not aware that the trails are separate. Some parts of the KT, however, actually follow the horse trails for a mile or so at a time. The section of trail between Mile Markers 17 and 19 exemplifies this extreme disturbance and has received the most damage. By 2005, the trail had become a swamp in the rainy season, and as of 2010 it remains the same. Attempts have been made by hikers to keep horses off this precious resource. Aside from signs being posted by hikers to search out, photograph, and report illegal horse activity, fiberglass guideposts have in recent years been found with the no-horse-traffic symbol cut out, removed, or showing evidence 45
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of being shot with a rifle. However, since the KT passes these horse paths so often and for such long distances, the conflict over the 2 activities might never be resolved. The remoteness of the trail that gives the Knobstone its character also makes it extremely difficult for conservation officers to witness and apprehend those who ride horses and motorized vehicles on the trail illegally. By the time the activity is reported and an officer is able to respond, the wrongdoer is generally long gone. Only once an area seems to be getting especially heavy use and damage can law enforcement personnel focus their efforts in apprehending the guilty party. Once someone is caught, word spreads and the illegal use of the trail ceases, but only for a while. To report illegal activity, contact DNR conservation officers. All horses brought, driven, or ridden into Clark State Forest must have a valid annual horse use tag. Primitive Backpacking and Camping Despite the many pre-existing camp locations recorded in this book, many of which are technically illegal, according to the Department of Natural Resources all camping must remain on public lands at least 1 mile away from all roads, recreations areas, and trailheads while also remaining out of sight of the trail and all lakes. My own experience is that because of the steep hills that the trail constantly passes over, flat and level camping areas are few and far between. A good practice to follow is to make every effort to avoid using existing camps that have been developed directly along the path of the trail; instead, use only those that have been created away from the path. This will ensure that other hikers do not have to cross through a camp, thereby helping to maintain the solitude of the trail. When creating a new camp, make every effort to do as little damage as possible to the ground and surrounding plant life by choosing the most open and remote areas off trail. Past experience shows that low-lying valleys and creek beds, some of which stretch off trail a minimum distance of 100 feet, serve as the best opportunity to find level open campsites. Nature is for all to enjoy, and despite the thoughtless behavior of a few who destroy the
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Mile Description 2.15 6.00 7.30 9.80 10.85 16.90 19.90 20.30 20.60 21.20 22.20 22.90 25.25 27.40 29.10 30.50 30.85 31.15 34.00 35.90 36.10 38.25 39.50 40.30 45.50
Existing camp Round Knob—scenic view with existing camp Scenic view with camp, rock shelter Existing camp Scenic view with existing camp Existing camp Existing camp Low wetland and existing camp Low wetland and existing camp Low wetland and existing camp Low wetland and existing camp Scenic view and existing camp Scenic view and existing camp Existing camp Existing camp Elk Creek Lake existing camp Existing camp Existing camp Existing camp Existing camp Existing camp Existing camp Existing camp in Virginia pine forest Existing camp Delaney Creek Park—camping, showers, phone
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ground or discard trash along the trail edges, the same could be said about campers not following “leave no trace” practices. To quote the great John Muir, “God has cared for these trees, saved them from drought, disease, avalanches, and a thousand tempests and floods, he cannot save them from fools.” Respect the land through which you are walking by carrying out everything carried in. Listed above, for the sole purpose of hiker education, are all of the existing sites recorded along the trail, illegal or not. On many occasions, hikers have traveled during the dimming light of evening and at night. It is important that all of these sites be considered in case someone might need a safe refuge until morning. Water can be a very real concern while on the trail, as many of the streams shown on the maps are bone-dry during most of the year. If water needs to be retrieved from the land, the only guaranteed locations to get water year-round are at Deam Lake, Elk Creek Lake, and Spurgeon Hollow Lake, or at seasonal 47
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Mile Description
2.15 5.40 7.65 8.70 11.10 13.20 16.80 16.90 19.90 20.30 20.60 21.20 22.20 24.30 26.50 26.80 27.85 28.20 28.50 29.70 30.50 30.90 31.50 32.90 34.60 36.10 36.15 37.10 38.25 39.20 40.10 42.50 43.40
Seasonal creek Seasonal Bartle Creek Seasonal Right Drain Creek Seasonal creek Seasonal creek Bowen Lake seasonal creek Seasonal creek Seasonal creek Seasonal North Branch Creek Seasonal North Branch Creek Seasonal North Branch Creek Seasonal North Branch Creek Seasonal creek Seasonal creek Seasonal creek Unmarked lake Seasonal creek Seasonal creek Seasonal creek leading to lake Seasonal creek Seasonal creek—Elk Creek Lake Seasonal creek—Elk Creek Lake Seasonal creek—Elk Creek Lake intersection trail Seasonal creek Seasonal creek Seasonal creek—State Road 60 Seasonal creek Seasonal creek Seasonal creek Seasonal creek Wildlife pond Seasonal creek Spurgeon Hollow Lake
creeks if you’re lucky. Nonetheless, there are several large lakes off of the forest property. A lake directly north of Mile Marker 27 is not on any hiking map, but its edges drain near the trail. Another lake off of the forest property, between Mile Markers 28 and 29, is on hiking maps and also drains relatively close to the trail. It is highly unadvisable that you leave the forest property and go on to private land. However, knowing that the lakes are nearby should be good enough in searching out intermittent and perennial streams that drain from the lakes near the trail. Aside from that there are several wildlife ponds along the trail that contain a source for water, but these should be avoided 48
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Mile Description 2.15 5.35 6.50 8.80 11.10 12.00 16.70 21.60 24.70 26.50 31.50 32.70 34.75 37.15 38.15 39.00 40.50
Seasonal creek Jackson Road Trailhead intersection Flatwood Road Pixley Knob Road State Road 160 Pounds Knob New Chapel Trailhead Atkins Road Leota Trailhead Lino Lane Elk Creek Trailhead intersection Level Ratts Road State Road 56 John Stuart Oxley Memorial Trailhead New Cut Road Pull Tight Road West Point/Mail Route Road
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unless a good filter is being used or in the case of an emergency. These ponds are notably dirty and stagnant. Listed opposite are places where the trail crosses over seasonal creeks that, unless reached after a strong rain, are more than likely dry during the warmer months. Small pools of water still exist in many of the locations. The best way to ensure that water is available is to make caches at each trailhead location or road crossing. Listed above are the most accessible locations to easily drive and drop water. Mark water containers with a name and an intended date of usage. This allows forest crews to discard old unused items. Another recommendation is to tape the lids to identify if the containers have been tampered with. Carry out used containers and please be sure to not leave any unused containers behind. Be Conscientious with Waste Where restrooms are not available, which is almost everywhere along the trail, avoid contamination to natural resources by using an area at least 200 feet from any water supply and camping zone. Using a small shovel or boot heel, dig a small hole approximately 8 inches deep, which can then be covered with loose soil and leaf litter to promote decomposition and sanitary 49
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conditions. Always use biodegradable soaps and toilet paper. If family pets follow along, practice the same method of burying their waste. Use of Fire The use of fire while camping is a matter of opinion. To some it is a staple rich in tradition with outdoor exploration. To others it destroys the simplicity of woodland travel as well as leaving a huge footprint for others to deal with. In either case fires are 50
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Helicopter view of Deam Lake—June 1978. Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
extremely dangerous in dry conditions, and due to the lack of available water sources it is best to instead rely on a portable camping stove. These devices not only allow the forest to decompose as it was intended but allow the hiker to leave no trace of his or her presence. Practices such as this ensure that wildlife and humans alike can move about the trail in natural harmony, thus ensuring the trail remains a clean landmark of discovery. 51
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Deam Lake State Recreation Area.
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The Deam Lake State Recreation Area
6
The trail leads not merely north and south but upward to the body, mind and soul of man. Harold Allen
Early in the twentieth century, when forestry was still a fairly new science, Charles Deam became Indiana’s first state forester. He created the Indiana state forest system we have today. Through his research, writings, and perseverance, he encouraged thousands of private landowners to protect and better manage their forests. In remembrance of his countless achievements for Indiana, in 1963 a 194-acre lake located in the southern section of Clark State Forest was constructed and named in honor of Charles Deam. The lake’s purpose was to provide flood control and recreational activities such as swimming, boating, and fishing. Operated by the Indiana DNR, the recreational area currently provides a boat ramp, a boat dock with boat rentals, and a fishing pier for handicapped individuals. The area remains quiet year-round, as only electric motors are allowed on the lake. Aside from fishing, the park also offers an education center open from Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day, a beach and bathhouse, 265 class A campsites, picnic areas, and shelter houses. With so many opportunities for outdoor recreation, the park serves well as a starting point or final destination when walking the Knobstone. Four short hiking trails lead to different interesting locations, including Trail #3, which connects to the Knobstone Trail. 53
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The brilliant colors of the Knobstone Trail come alive in the autumn months, when hiking conditions for the trail are superb. 54
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Deam Lake to Jackson Road
7
Great things are done when men and mountains meet. This is not done by jostling in the street. Willi am Blake
Sellersburg, Indiana—Hiking—5 miles Deam Lake Trailhead N38° 27.942' W85° 50.655' Broom Hill Rd. Borden, Indiana Located just a short drive down Wilson Switch Road, past the Deam Lake State Recreation Area is the Deam Lake Trailhead. As the shortest segment of the Knobstone Trail, this section presents a decent warm-up of nominally flat winding pathway and slightly inclining hills. The first few feet of the trail tend to stay soggy during the rainy season but dry out as the terrain gains elevation. Not far into the woods the trail passes one of the few trees mysteriously formed and used by Native Americans (see chapter 4). After Mile Marker 1, the trail continues uphill until reaching an intersection crossing the Flower Gap horse trail. Here the path begins to lead out of the lower valley and into a thick forest filled with plant species as beautiful as their names. The smell of the pasture rose, for example, combines with the scent of pine and honeysuckle to highlight the natural aroma of the forest. During the winter months, one can begin to see far off the path and surrounding hills. While 55
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Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
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T h e De a m L a k e S t a t e Re c r e at i on A r e a
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The eastern box turtle (Terrapene carolina) is typically marked with yellow to orange streaks. A distinct hinge attached to the bottom of the shell allows the turtle to “box” itself in for protection against predators, thus giving the terrestrial animal its name. They may live for more than 60 years. While October temperatures cause box turtles to seek shelter in shallow burrows, on any given trip within the warmer months, 2 or more might be spotted along the trail within just a few miles. However, the population of this turtle is teetering between being a secure population and becoming endangered, primarily due to habitat loss, road mortality, and collection by humans. Therefore, since 2004 the collection of eastern box turtles and any subspecies from the wild is prohibited in Indiana. Spring and summer months bring on a variety of colorful wildflowers tossed about the pathway, including the pasture rose (Rosa carolina). The fairly prickly shrub contains 5 pink petals, numerous brilliant yellow stamens, and a flat and wide pistil structure at the center of the flower. Blooming occurs in early summer and lasts about 1 month, producing a rose fragrance. With its habitat of prairies and woodland thickets, the plant also develops fleshy red fruit known as hips.
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the overgrowth of the forest is still present, what is hidden is how wide and flat the area really is. The trail runs parallel with the Flower Gap horse trail for 50 feet or so until a rise and fall in elevation rolls the path over tiny hills and gullies. As the trail winds through the forest, it begins to pass through a small segment of evergreens. Through this section the trail begins to lead from an open forest of low-lying brush to tall conifers reaching more than 30 feet high. Combined with fresh air, the concentrated scent of pine lingers through the area all year long. Like a wall of trees, the forest begins to close in around the trail where shortly after, the path crosses the western section of the Flower Gap horse trail. After a small decline the path leads uphill, meeting Mile Marker 2. After 50 feet or so the trail crosses Reed Road. It is easy to lose the trail at this point, as trail markers tend to blend in with the forest, a horse trail intersection exists, and Reed Road rests slightly to the east. Two large, oversized blazes have been painted on trees just ahead to help relieve the problem. Once across the road the pathway increases steeply uphill before barreling down into a wide-open creek bed. This area presents endless opportunities for camping off trail, as the terrain becomes flat and open. Still pools of water remain in the creek during the summer months, while in wet and cold seasons one might be lucky enough to find running water. Following the trail across the creek, the path begins to gently lead uphill out of the low valley. Nearing Mile Marker 3 the trail is level and smooth, winding through a primarily open forest. As the sides of the trail become overwhelmed with fields of greenbrier, the path can only be described as dense and lush, as the invasive plant covers the area as far as the eye can see. Past the greenbrier fields the sides of the trail begin to slant downward, thereby creating
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The roundleaf greenbrier (Smilax rotundifolia) gets its name from a Greek myth in which a mortal man is turned into a flower and a woodland nymph is transformed into the brambly Smilax vine. Forming dense, impenetrable thickets, like most vines it is common for the plant to grow into trees using its hooked thorns to scramble over branches. In autumn, dark blue to black berries develop; cleaned of their pulp, they were once used by Native Americans as beads for necklaces.
steep, deepening gullies. Upon reaching the bottom of a steep hill the trail meanders through a thicker forest. Reaching the top of the hill, the elevation crests at a height high enough to feel a breeze through the thinning trees. While traveling along the narrow hilltop, the trail then trends slightly downward. Upon reaching a second steep incline, the KT begins to show its true face of harsh, endless hills. No switchback is present on this particular slope, and once past the steepest part, it remains an incline all the way to the top. Upon reaching Mile Marker 4, 60
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The forest floor glows with the brownish-red hue of fallen leaves.
the path begins to taper off at the top of Bartle Knob, where the trail becomes level. Here the views are particularly good in the autumn and winter months, with the city of Blue Lick lying below to the east. An endless scene of high country hills can be observed to the west. As the trail drops downward between a set of hills, it immediately begins a steep climb back up another hill of the same size. Set between the trail and an overgrown lush forest pasture, newly developing trees thrive, while grasses and wildflowers capture the forest floor. Continuing on, the trail begins a downward switchback crossed with wooden waterbars. After reaching the bottom of the hill, the route immediately begins a climb up a third hill. Upon rounding the crest, the trail crosses Bartle Knob Road. Just west, up the road on the right, is the Jackson Road Trailhead. Across the road is a worn-flat section containing a sign directing hikers toward Deam Lake or New Chapel. As the trail continues, the route heads down the other side of the hill until reaching a lower creek bed.
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The evening autumn sun lights up the forest below.
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Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
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Rock carvings, while controversial, provide a link to explorers from well before the Knobstone Trail was created.
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Jackson Road to New Chapel
8
After a day’s walk everything has twice its usual value. George M acauley Trevelyan
Deam Lake, Indiana—Hiking—12 miles Jackson Road Trailhead N38° 30.787' W85° 52.382' Jackson Rd. Borden, Indiana The trail continues on a narrow path of wetlands gradually ascending uphill. Along a tightly formed switchback the trail meets Mile Marker 5. Once a fork in the trail appears, an intersection sign directs traffic either up a wide-open horse trail to the west toward the Jackson Trailhead or northeast, continuing the trail. Upon reaching the top of the hill a bare area appears, with the Mountain Grove Loop horse trail leading off to the east. After a short break the trail continues uphill, passing the remnants of the old trail. Thanks to the re-route, the trail no longer climbs straight up the hill but instead forms a switchback that wraps around the southwestern side of the mount. As the pathway begins to level off, a set of rock outcroppings appear along the northeastern wall where a collection of rock carvings can be viewed. Initials carved into the rocks date back to 1896, with a majority around 1900. Although destructive of natural beauty, some are very
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Hi k i n g t h e K n ob s t on e T r a i l
Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
detailed and represent the perseverance of the carvers. Within a few feet of the rocks Mile Marker 6 stands. Located north of the trail, and up the crest of the hill, is one of the more famous features of the Knobstone Trail, Round Knob. Due to the closeness of the Jackson Road Trailhead, the camp is a highly used grassy hilltop. The trail does not pass directly over Round Knob; however, 2 short secondary trails lead 68
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Ja c k s on R o a d t o New C h a p e l
to the top, one near Mile Marker 6 and another down the back side of the hill. As the trail leads away from the high knob, the pathway becomes particularly narrow before crossing the next hill along a narrow switchback. Upon reaching the crest of the hill, the ridgeline becomes squeezed from the sides by poison ivy and greenbrier during the summer months. This is due in part to the open hilltops and lack of tree cover along the northern ridges, thereby allowing sunlight to constantly cover the overgrowth. 69
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Almost immediately the Indian physic (Gillenia stipulata) forms the basis of green, lush growth lining the edges of the trail. In some spots entire colonies fill the gap between open forest and open pathway. This herbaceous perennial grows as far north as the state of New York and extends as far west as Kansas. Reputed to possess emetic powers, the species is thought to have been used by Native Americans and colonists for medicinal purposes.
The Knobstone now continues to the east, where Mile Marker 7 soon appears. As the trail begins to widen, a grassy ridgeline filled with spectacular views surrounds the clearing. To the west sits the Blue River community just beyond a few hills. Farther up the trail, the tree line opens up completely with an established campsite and a 360-degree view best enjoyed in the autumn and winter months. Here valley farm communities lie low and Blue Lick can still be seen to the southeast, while Henryville and Olisco lie to the northeast. Tucked just below the trail line rests another set of rock outcroppings with more aging rock carvings from the early 1900s. Just down the east side of the hill, secondary trails lead to large overhanging rocks. 70
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Round Knob, located at the top of the hill near Mile Marker 6, is a popular spot for setting up camp.
As the trail leads down, a secondary trail heads off southeast, and this, in turn, runs back into the Knobstone halfway down the hill. The trail gradually leads down until reaching a flat open area with a seasonal creek. Within the flat wetland area several off-trail camping opportunities present themselves. After an incline, the trail travels a short distance before reaching the eastern half of the Mountain Grove horse trail. The Knobstone follows the horse trail for about 100 feet before returning into the woods northeast. Farther down the path Mile Marker 8 appears. After 2 slight dips into the hills the trail crosses the Poindexter fire lane, an overgrown gravel road with steps on each side. If followed to the west, the fire lane would connect with the Jackson Road horse trail and the Mountain Grove horse trail loop. Following it to the east will lead to Pixley Knob Road. Once across the fire road, the trail remains steady and flat until gradually moving down along a seasonal creek. After a small hill the trail abruptly plummets downward, before reaching Pixley Knob Road. After crossing the road a small section of waterbars appear as the trail traverses the upslope. Once the path reaches level
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Hi k i n g t h e K n ob s t on e T r a i l
Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
ground, Mile Marker 9 appears as Pixley Knob Road runs parallel below to the northwest. Here the trail takes an abrupt change of direction up a long treacherous mount. After about 50 feet, the path levels for a breather before continuing the grueling climb. Once on top the phenomenal views make the climb worthwhile 72
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as the path continues through a flat and lush hilltop paradise. Complete with flourishing grasses and greenbrier, the hilltop serves as a sanctuary for many songbirds providing the hiker with a symphony of sounds well into the evening hours. Despite the northwest side of the trail remaining heavily overgrown and impassable in the warmer months, the southeast side offers an established campsite with views across the horizon. As the 73
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View of Louisville, Kentucky, from the high hills near Mile Marker 10.
morning hours rise, the hill is often engulfed in morning fog, creating quite a gorgeous setting to start the day. Once autumn takes hold the surrounding hills within this section paint the perfect picture of fall. Upon reaching the end of the hill, the path begins to lower into a group of knobs. Within this segment of changing
First identified in the Virginia colonies in 1788, great horned owls (Bubo virginianus), also known as hoot owls, cat owls, or winged tigers, are aggressive by nature toward intruders to their nests. With a large repertoire of sounds, everything from booming hoots to shrill shrieks can be heard for miles on a still night. Due to their large size and location high in the treetops, their only natural enemy besides humans is other great horned owls. Using its large talons these owls may take prey 2–3 times heavier than themselves and from an extremely wide range of species.
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Ghostly fog covers the high hills of the Knobstone Trail. 75
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Golden autumn leaves light the forest.
elevation sits Mile Marker 10. The trail then gradually leads uphill along the high plateau known as Table Rock until reaching Table Rock Road. The road runs east to west, while the trail continues on northeast. After crossing the road, the trail leads into a forest of Virginia pines that blanket the area with rustcolored needles. While traveling through the pine forest tiny tightly compacted rolling mounds lead the trail up and down sporadically. Running parallel with Table Rock Road the path crosses over the road once again, revealing an open grassy area and a large rock east of the trail. Here more rock carvings occur, partially hidden under overrunning vines and ivy. Immediately the trail descends and the traffic from State Road 160 can be heard for the first time. The trail changes from Virginia pines to a mixed selection of maples and chestnut oaks as the trail descends the steep slope just south of State Road 160 (termed “Geronimo” or “Boy Scout” hill) along a section of steps and waterbars. At the foot of the hill the trail passes Mile Marker 11. After crossing State Road 160 and some 75 feet northwest, up the road, and past a concrete creek bridge the trail continues, marked by a customary wooden post emblazoned with the KT symbol. Once back on the trail the route continues out of the low valley up a steep hill with waterbars very similar to what was just descended. Upon reaching the top 76
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Blooms of the squawroot (Conopholus americana) appear by mid-spring and continue until early summer. Lacking leaves and resembling a pinecone or corncob, the parasitic plant forms from the roots of oak trees. Also known as a cancer-foot or bear corn, the squawroot grows into a scaly stalk 3–8 inches high. When traveling through areas such as creek beds where the soil remains moist, mayapples (Podophyllum peltatum) can be found in large colonies covering the open ground. Also known as the umbrella plant due to the shape of its leaves, mayapple flowers bloom in early May, forming into a fruit by late summer. Folklore stories told that the sound of the plant being pulled from the ground could render a man insane, and that the plant was employed by witches, calling it a witch’s umbrella.
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Hi k i n g t h e K n ob s t on e T r a i l
Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
of the hill the trail levels off, providing a long and easy stretch of path. After a good length along the ridge the trail leads along the western section of the 24-acre Virginia Pine–Chestnut Oak Nature Preserve. While predominantly covered with Virginia pine on the upper slopes, the preserve also protects the chestnut oak community along the remaining lower areas. Though mainly a tree of ridgetops, the chestnut oak can grow up to 100 feet tall, thriving in dry, rocky soil along ravines. While white and scarlet oaks appear only sporadically, the chestnut oak remains the dominant species. Although very common along the 78
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Virginia Pine–Chestnut Oak Nature Preserve Location and Access To reach the forest preserve off trail go north 0.9 miles on U.S. 31 from Henryville. Turn left on the main forest road. Follow this road about 1/2 mile west past the fire tower. Stopping by the forest headquarters for directions may help to keep a traveler from getting lost. It is advised to park along the roadside. Not far up the trail a small spur trail leads a few feet directly on to Firetower Road. The antenna plant is used to guide aircraft away from the highly elevated hills. This area also enters one of the worst noise-polluted sections along the trail due to a gun range down the road about a mile. The trail continues west, running parallel with Firetower Road. After 3/4 of a mile the path crosses north to approach Mile Marker 13 to the west. Here the trail gradually leads downhill, immediately meeting a camp north of the trail, which is located along a cliff. Just after the camp, the trail twists around a ledge, then continues down a steep hill. Farther down the slope along heavily eroded waterbars into a creek bed, the high hills wrap and hide the lower valley. After crossing the creek the trail continues up through a small colony of mayapples and back up a section of waterbars, leading out of the valley.
Ja c k s on R o a d t o New C h a p e l
Knobstone, the Virginia pine is not normally native to Indiana and remains confined naturally within the region of Floyd, Clark, and Scott counties. Since the understory of the reserve is often consistently quite bare, poison ivy, greenbrier, sassafras, and dogwood constantly thrive here. Moving northeast near the border of the reserve the trail comes to Mile Marker 12. Here the path continues, passing a steep ravine before changing direction to the west.
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Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
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Near Mile Marker 15 the sides of the trail open up, revealing the surrounding terrain.
The top of the hill remains steady and flat until beginning to slowly descend. Crossing the southern section of the Bowen horse trail, Mile Marker 14 comes into view. Here the trail begins an ascent, then crosses the northern section of the Bowen horse trail. To the southeast, the horse trail leads to the Bowen Lake parking area and the lake. As you continue northwest, Mile Marker 15 appears along an elbow of the trail before it turns westward. At this juncture the path quickly drops off into a low creek bed, before continuing through the center of the Bowen horse trail loop. Within this area the South Branch Creek presents ample opportunities for water year-round, as the trail runs parallel with the same seasonal creek by crossing 14 times within a short distance. Upon reaching a short hill, the hiker crosses the western side of the Bowen horse trail loop, where Mile Marker 16 appears shortly after. Here an easy stroll follows the path over an extension to the Bowen Loop horse trail before moving to a small section of steep inclines. Once past the steep hills, the route crosses the extension horse trail again. Upon crossing the extension trail, the hiker enters a swampy area that is shallow and flat, eventually crossing the final leg of the South Branch Creek within 82
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this section. By continuing just a few yards onward, the New Chapel intersection appears with a sign directing the trail either southeast toward the New Chapel Trailhead or on across Liberty Road to the north. Upon reaching Liberty Road, the extension trail leading to the Bowen Loop horse trail is located just to the north of the road crossing with a metal gate.
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Over the years, the section of trail between Mile Markers 18 and 19 has been the hardest-hit by ATV and horse damage, making it the most difficult area to maintain and traverse in rainy weather. 84
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New Chapel to Leota
9
Walking takes longer . . . than any other known form of locomotion except crawling. Thus it stretches time and prolongs life. Life is already too short to waste on speed. Edward Abbey, “Walking”
Leota, Indiana—Hiking—9 miles New Chapel Trailhead N38° 34.460' W85° 52.425' New Chapel Rd. (Liberty Knob) New Chapel, Indiana Once over Liberty Road the trail immediately crosses South Branch Creek, following the direction of the waterway until ascending uphill. While generally a steep and slick traverse, the hill ascends about 150 feet, leveling off just before Mile Marker 17. Despite a few overgrown sections off trail the area remains flat and clear heading west. While passing through a more vegetative section of trail several new forms of life begin to appear, such as tall ironweed. The trail remains smooth and well used upon reaching Mile Marker 18. After 1/4 mile an unnamed horse trail connects from the east, then combines with the Knobstone as one singular trail. At one time the horse trail exited the Knobstone to the west about 1/2 mile north, but due to constant tree fall the horse trail exit is rarely used or clear. From the evidence of horseshoe prints and trail damage, it is safe to speculate that most horse 85
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The trail leads through an abundant number of pawpaw trees near the North Branch Creek.╇ Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
riders either head back along the Knobstone toward the New Chapel Trailhead or continue on north along the Knobstone Trail. Over time this has created a problem, making this section the hardest level area to pass through. The trail widens in this section to 5 or 6 feet across due to the heavy horse traffic described in chapter 5, and in the spring it is a swamp. During especially wet conditions, the trail can become almost impassable, and many attempts by both hikers and horse riders have been made to create secondary trails along the west side of the path. However, any alternate trail is used very sporadically and is not well defined. To avoid bushwhacking and to ensure that you do not get lost, you should plan on tightening your belt and getting your boots muddy. Because of the trail damage by horses, not much can be done to avoid the hiking difficulties of this area. The surrounding forest is riddled with old dirt pathways from past logging operations that run across the trail at various times. Re-routing will only cause the same issue to happen in another area, thus causing this whole sector to become a swamp. During the fall and winter months the ground freezes hard enough to make the section much easier to walk. Only in extremely warm, rainy months is it of any concern. Upon nearing Mile Marker 19, the
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hard red clay begins to appear on the surface of the trail and the issue with the swamp soon ends. A short distance up trail a grassy section opens up that contains various ferns and a tree-covered meadow set within a newly developing forest. Within this area, crops of wild daffodils cover the forest floor in spectacular shades of yellow around the end of March. With its vast array of open forest fields and wildflowers, the area retains the perfect background for such wildlife as coyotes and white-tailed deer. Within the verdant area is a campsite along the east side of the trail, some 150 steps from Mile Marker 19. After a short distance the trail changes course and heads north, while the path narrows and becomes more isolated.
A native perennial plant, the tall ironweed (Vernonia gigantea) prefers full sun to light shade, thriving in moist conditions in upland areas. Its most likely habitats include open woodlands, forest borders, and abandoned fields. The nectar of the flower attracts butterflies and longtongued bees.
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The best-known characteristic of the white-tailed deer is that males bear antlers. Unlike horns, antlers are not permanent and are shed annually during the months of winter. As creatures of habit, white-tailed deer generally occupy an area of 1–2 square Photograph by Tyler Morgan miles in order to remain intimately familiar with their surroundings. Living up to 10 years in the wild, deer are considered in their prime at age 3. While once almost pushed to extinction, in 1934 the Division of Fish and Wildlife succeeded in restocking the state with 400 deer transferred from Wisconsin, Michigan, Pennsylvania, and North Carolina. Today, because of successful breeding and protection, deer inhabit every county in Indiana.
Once past a deep gully, the trail continues over a hilltop overgrown with greenbrier before dropping into a creek bed. Ahead is the first sighting of the North Branch Creek. After crossing the creek the trail continues northward and gently uphill until reaching a wide pathway. This unnamed path that the Knobstone connects with is a popular horse trail to locals and heads off of forest property to the west, reaching a large, privately owned field. Linking with the pathway, the Knobstone Trail continues east for 800 feet or so before being directed off of the wide path and back into the forest. While the wide unnamed path continues east into a maze of privately owned horse trails, it is highly recommended to follow the trail back into the forest and stay on the designated Knobstone Trail. It is Department of Natural Resources policy for hikers to stay
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New C h a p e l t o Le o t a
Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
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above╇ Shale and clay walls are exposed near the trail’s best opportunities to collect water. opposite╇ Illegal ATV traffic along this section of the trail has compacted the soil, causing poor water filtration and flooding.
on the designated pathway and avoid exploring these dead-end trails since they lead off of DNR-owned land and into the backyards of local residents. Although the area has been mapped, there is not much to see but neglected greenbrier fields and wide dirt roads. Furthermore, the maze of trails only leads uncomfortably close to many houses and private hunting spots. It’s best to get through this section as quickly as possible. Upon entering the cover of the trees, a long switchback leads downhill until reaching a larger, deeper section of the North Branch Creek. Just after crossing the creek, Mile Marker 20 appears. The trail then leads gently uphill until coming in contact with an intersection and an illegal ATV track. Here the trail begins to follow the hard smooth dirt pathway bulldozed flat by constant ATV activity. Not far down the path is a tall shale wall wrapping along a small section of North Branch Creek. Within the area, water can swell and deepen just below the shale wall, creating a perfect place to cool off in cool clear water. The trail continues across North Branch Creek and runs parallel with the waterway for quite a while before passing Mile Marker 21. Many ATV paths cross back and forth over the trail, making it confusing at times as to which direction to go. Despite the large bodies of water that can develop here, 90
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Throughout Indiana evidence of coyotes is present, especially their distinctive late-night howls, which give the animal its Latin name of Canis lantrans or “barking dog.” Evoking images of western prairies, coyotes are native to Indiana. With a grizzled coat, bushy tail, and long, slender snout, the average weight of coyotes in Indiana is about 30 pounds. Known to pair with their mates for life, couples may have 5–10 pups around the month of April. Dens are generally located along hillsides, in rock outcroppings, or in caves.
this section remains very level and not nearly as muddy as the horse-damaged sections. Unlike horses, ATVs have a tendency to firmly compress the dirt path evenly. These depressions then fill up with rain, creating large pools of water 10 or more feet across, sometimes as much as ankle-deep. As long as close attention is paid to the white blazes on the trees, you can eventually determine where the trail leaves the illegal ATV path to climb the western side of a 915-foot hill. Once on top the community of New Salem can be seen close by to the west, while the Underwood community sits 10 miles southeast. Here the trail wanders back downhill and passes Mile Marker 22. Upon reaching the crest of the highly elevated hill, the pathway becomes surrounded by astounding views of the Indiana landscape as you pass Mile Marker 23. Farther along this section the path rides hilltops, reaching some of the highest altitudes along the entire Knobstone Trail. Upon reaching Mile Marker 24 the trail begins to descend into a seasonal creek. The route then takes a half-mile incline back uphill to over 900 feet before reaching the New Salem Finley Knob Road. Crossing the road ends this section of the trail at the Leota Trailhead parking spot. Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources 93
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The path narrows and flattens upon reaching the crest of the hill near Mile Marker 23.
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Leota to Elk Creek Lake
10
Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves. John Muir, Our National Parks
Salem, Indiana—Hiking—7 miles Leota Trailhead N38° 38.497' W85° 53.271' New Salem Finley Rd. Leota, Indiana From the Leota Trailhead the path continues north and downhill through a scenic narrow valley before reaching Mile Marker 25. Here the trail begins to head uphill and narrows before leveling off to a clear, flat crest heavily used by campers. At a height of 850 feet, and towering over the area’s woodland residents, views of the Leota community can be observed just to the east. During the morning, peace and solitude surrounds the hill with only an occasional sound of cars from the Lee Saylor and New Salem roads. Besides the sporadic calls of roosters from the nearby farms, the area is extremely quiet. Here the KT continues down the north side of the hill along a steep switchback. Upon reaching the bottom of the hill, the path passes through a wide, level section of trail before reaching Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources 97
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Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
Mile Marker 26. Along the trailside this area receives a great deal of sun, allowing many wildflowers and grasses to thrive. Ultimately the sides of the trail become more overgrown with invasive weeds and woody growth as the forest closes in. Here the trail forks, before heading off to the west. At this point it is very important to keep a watchful eye out for all white blazes. If continued north at the fork the path follows a private horse/bike trail before passing Vic Swain Hill and a few ATV trails. Although Vic Swain Hill was documented on maps as 98
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Le o t a t o E l k C r ee k L a k e
early as 2000, it has been removed from the most recent maps as it is not owned by the DNR and is on private property. Trail guides of the past have described Vic Swain as spectacular at its 815-foot elevation. However, in recent years the area has unfortunately become riddled with horse and ATV trails on both sides of the hill, making it easy to lose your way. If you discover that you have inadvertently traveled to Vic Swain Hill it is important to remember to backtrack south in the proper direction. Otherwise you will end up traveling a good distance down a steep hill and exiting the forest behind a private residence at County Line Road/Oak Hill Road. The hill represents an eastward departure from the trail’s predominantly northern direction. Continuing west, signs are posted for foot traffic only. Across from the first sign is Lino Lane. This side path is more of a service road or multi-use trail and blends into the forest scenery so well that it is often overlooked. Lino Lane connects to Smith Road, where there is a gate. As you move on down the trail, populations of mayapples appear along the moist ground. Upon reaching an area of creek beds ample opportunities occur to the west of the trail for legal
The wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), though a member of the mint family, exudes a scent of oregano. With a bushy appearance, the plant can often spread aggressively with lots of sun, and its rhizome root system has even been known to survive earthmoving and bulldozing, spreading its reaches even farther. Occurring in large clumps, the native perennial was once a medicinal plant used by Native Americans as a sweat inducer as well as an antiseptic for skin infections. 99
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The woodland phlox (Phlox di varicata) appears mostly along moist forest streams where well-drained, sandy soils and ample sunlight allow the plant to thrive from early summer to late autumn. As an outwardly fragrant plant, it is attractive to butterflies and birds as well as humans. The woodland sunflower (Helianthus divaricatus) primarily grows in partly shaded areas within sparse woods and dry thickets. Flowering July to October, the sunflower is heliotropic, turning its face to the sun.
camping. Running parallel with the creek, heavy ATV use is present, causing many secondary trails to head off in all directions. Set within the moist soil of the creek beds are frequent groups of woodland phlox. As you near an unmarked wildlife lake set on private property, bird song fills the valley. Just before a steep hill leading out of the valley, an intermittent stream connects with the privately owned lake, giving a hiker opportunity to obtain water that connects to the lake’s shallow southern shore. Once out of the valley, an ATV path travels off to the west, while the KT continues downhill before reaching Mile Marker 27. After heading south through a creek bed, the path travels a short distance before returning up a steep hill. At this point the trail begins to level off only briefly before continuing up a treacherously steep hill. This begins what best resembles the backcountry area of the Elk Creek and Leota sections, and without a doubt is one of the KT’s hardest climbs. This hill represents 100
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lEota to Elk cr EEk l a k E
a major change in elevation and a preface to what is to be expected for the next few miles. Here the hills are steep and comprise long, hard climbs with winding switchbacks. As the steep path tightly hugs the side of the hill, branches and roots are needed at times to simply keep your footing along the dusty dirt path. Upon reaching the top and catching your breath, the trail finally levels off before continuing across a flat ridge through a lush field of greenbrier and woodland sunflowers. In open canopied seasons the height of the hill offers a panoramic view of colorful backcountry hillsides, plus the northern edge of the town of New Salem when looking directly south. The horizon to the southeast holds three white water towers and a collection of quaint country farmland. After reaching the other side, the trail descends a steep, hard-compacted dirt path layered in rock. Here the trail bottoms out into a quiet, cool valley crossed by a seasonal creek. Although normally dry in the summer, the area remains scattered with American bellflowers. Continuing on, the trail runs parallel with a winding creek bed before passing Mile Marker 28. As the path begins to leave the company of the creek before heading west, the terrain remains uniform and level, hugging closely to the sides of the northern slopes. Here the hillsides begin to slope downward as the trail descends into Monroe Hollow. Through the dense forest, the first view of a second lake appears to the northwest of the trail. At this point, the trail continues through a creek bed that connects to the lake in an area that is normally wet and swampy. The trail then leads very steeply uphill until gradually reaching the top, skirting the crest, then sharply descending down the other side. Once at the bottom, the trail leads through a seasonal creek and immediately up another hill. After a very steep winding climb over loose dirt and rock, Mile Marker 29 appears. You
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Hi k i n g t h e K n ob s t on e T r a i l
Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
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The American bellflower (Campanulastrum americanum) thrives within the cool shade and moist conditions of the creek beds, blooming June through October. It is believed that Native Americans used the plant for treating coughs and tuberculosis. Typically emerging from hibernation in early March, the eastern chipmunk (Tamias stri atus) is a small, ground-dwelling squirrel that ranges from around 5 to 6 inches long, with a 3- to 4-inch-long tail. They are easily identified from the trail by their size, bright orange to tan color, and black-striped back. Found in a variety of habitats throughout the state, they are a common resident on the trail, squeaking in alert as hikers pass by. Chipmunks breed twice a year, once in the spring and once in late summer. They are quick and considered nuisance wildlife because of their abundance, eating a variety of foods, primarily grains, nuts, berries, seeds, mushrooms, insects, and even bird eggs and young birds when available.
often get the impression that you are climbing straight up, as the path slips and gives beneath your feet. Just after Mile Marker 29, the trail reaches the hill’s crest before connecting with a service path. Camping opportunities abound at the top of this flat area, enhanced by cool breezes and open, shaded areas off trail. The route continues to follow the ridgeline along a smooth and narrow path surrounded by overgrown greenbrier. Eventually the path reaches a Y intersection where the left trail is the current KT route. As chipmunks scamper off into the surrounding brush, the trail begins to head downhill, again along 104
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Le o t a t o E l k C r ee k L a k e
a rocky dirt path. Farther downhill the trail develops into what was the right side of the Y intersection when on top of the hill. Here the trail is directed farther downhill. At the bottom a seasonal creek appears. As the trail continues briefly uphill, it joins a wide path before the area levels off upon reaching Mile Marker 30. At this point a clearing comes into view as a wide power line swath opens to a view of the sky. Heading back downhill, the KT intersects several overgrown service roads before returning to the narrow hiking path. Upon reaching a lower valley, the trail drops down into a swampy hollow before winding around and across a seasonal creek that traverses McKnight Hollow. Here Elk Creek Lake can be observed as you approach to the northwest. After a short climb the trail skirts the lake, keeping the waterway in view. While circling around the lake the trail briefly passes through a braided tributary inlet and cove. Upon entering Smith Hollow, the path passes through a marsh and over a seasonal creek that connects with Elk Creek Lake. Upon reaching a small incline the trail leads straight ahead before reaching Mile Marker 31. While the trail rides along the northern slopes of the hill, the southern shore of Elk Creek Lake rests below. As the trail again drops into the creek bed of Garrett Hollow, the route wraps around the west side of the lake before crossing a seasonal creek. Continuing as an easy hike through the low wetland valley, the trail then crosses another creek before reaching an intersection sign. Here the trail is directed either east to the Elk Creek Trailhead or west toward the John Stuart Oxley Memorial Trailhead. Due to the constant ups and downs within this section the hills can become maddening and slow to traverse. Reaching the top of a steep hill just to travel back down, then to do it all over again—after 31 such miles the hills begin to try one’s patience and induce a feeling of futility. However, the Elk Creek Lake serves as the focal point where the hills begin to decrease in size and spread farther apart, thereby leaving a path of level ridgeline walks and solemn valley spreads.
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An old KT sign still hangs high on a tree after many years. Its origin is unknown.
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Elk Creek Lake to John Stuart Oxley Memorial
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Details of the many walks I made along the crest have blurred, now, into a pleasing tapestry of grass and space and sunlight. Colin Fletcher, The Secret Worlds of Colin Fletcher
Salem, Indiana—Hiking—6 Miles Elk Creek Lake Trailhead N38° 39.044' W85° 56.947' Elk Creek Rd. Salem, Indiana The pathway leaving the Elk Creek area is flat, narrow, and straight at Mile Marker 32. Continuing west the trail crosses over Leval Ratts Road. Here the trail reaches the end of its westward journey and begins to sharply change direction to north by climbing a steep hill out of Nowing Hollow. Upon reaching the crest of the hill, Mile Marker 33 appears. Here the trail opens up into a large golden prairie within a power line swath. As huge steel structures carry industrial wire as far as one can see, the community of Canton is visible just to the west. On clear days, this area loftily gives a great view of the valleys below. During autumn the community of New Philadelphia can be observed directly south. As you exit the cleared area, the trail dips downhill by briefly passing through the tip of Dowling Hollow to a seasonal creek, only to quickly ascend an 850-foot hill. As the trail leads north, it eventually descends to a lower valley, where, after crossing old State Road 56, the trail enters 107
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Look what a windstorm can do In the spring of 1997, a storm damaged a large portion of this area. Many trees were uprooted, while others were snapped off or had tops blown out. In an effort to salvage the down and damaged trees, it was decided by forestry personnel to conduct a timber harvest. The harvest encompassed two tracts containing 96 acres, of which only 67 acres were marked for harvest. The harvest was completed in June of 2000. The objective of the harvest was to remove damaged trees from areas affected by wind and mature/ overmature trees in portions unaffected by wind. Notice the areas that are thicker and more grown up with vegetation, these are wind-damaged areas. The new thicker vegetation will provide food and cover for both game and non-game species. Waterbars were established on skid trails to prevent soil erosion. A mixture of seed was placed on skid trails to help stabilize the soil and provide food for wildlife.
E l k C r ee k L a k e t o Jo h n S t ua r t O x l e y Me m o r i a l
Shantaky Hollow. Upon ascending a short hill out of the valley, Mile Marker 34 appears. Here a small antique wooden sign hangs high in a tree, representing the years that the trail has existed. After leaving the flat hilltop the trail dips down, leading to a seasonal creek. Noise from passing cars becomes evident as the path exits the forest to the side of State Road 56 within Rutherford Hollow. Just before crossing State Road 56, a large wooden sign has been placed to memorialize the damage done by a windstorm as well as the efforts of the forestry personnel to mitigate the damage. The sign reads:
After crossing State Road 56, the trail briefly inclines before reaching Mile Marker 35. This section represents a movement away from the low farmlands that previously surrounded the Knobstone hills. Instead the area runs directly through a large sector of high slopes. It is here that the trail skirts the rolling ridgelines until reaching Mile Marker 36. Within the next few Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources 109
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Gray foxes (Urocyon cinereoar genteus) prefer deep forests and brushy woodlands as opposed to cleared and cultivated farmland, making their dens within hollow trees or rock outcroppings. The coat of the small, wild canine is generally rough and grizzled, and their sensitive ears and nostrils probe for scents of prey. When meat is not easily obtained gray foxes will also feed on persimmons, nuts, grasses, and field corn. While raising young during the early spring, males track for food only until early fall, when the young have learned to hunt.
miles ample opportunities for camping abound within the lower elevated hills. After crossing a pair of seasonal creeks, the trail reaches Mile Marker 37. Shortly thereafter, the trail exits the forest, then crosses over Bane Hollow Road.
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Spurgeon Hollow Lake.
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John Stuart Oxley Memorial to Spurgeon Hollow
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The voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes. Marcel Proust, Remembr ance of Things Past
Salem, Indiana—Hiking—7 Miles John Stuart Oxley Memorial Trailhead N38° 40.860' W85° 58.776' Banes Hollow Rd. Salem, Indiana Spurgeon Hollow Trailhead N38° 42.808' W86° 02.583' Delaney Park Rd. Scottsburg, Indiana After crossing Bane Hollow Road, the John Stuart Oxley Memorial Trailhead resides in full view within a small parking area. Farther on, the trail passes through a clear-cut scrub forest with an overgrown forest floor that borders a moderately level forested path. Nearing the top of a slightly elevating hill, Mile Marker 38 appears; shortly after the trail passes over New Cut Road and enters an old worn-out ridgetop farm. Here evidence of the farm exists within the large red cedars and black oaks, enormous with age, that were often used as fencerows. The trail then moves downhill until it reaches a seasonal creek that passes through the west edge of Herron Hollow. The trail winds 113
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Hi k i n g t h e K n ob s t on e T r a i l
Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
its way through a fragrant pine stand until reaching Pumpkin Center/East Pull Tight Road. The trail re-enters the forest at Mile Marker 39, then descends into an open valley for a short time before crossing a seasonal creek. As trees begin to thicken and to shade the trail, the path continues up a steep hill. Here the route changes direction from its northern path by circling west into a long section of Virginia pines. As the tree cover changes back to a deciduous forest, the path wraps along the southern side of a hill before reaching Mile Marker 40. While heading southwest, a small wildlife pond appears, then the trail continues west until passing over Mail Route Road. The trail continues north from the road crossing until reaching an intersection sign. Here the trail is directed west toward the Spurgeon Hollow Trailhead or north toward the Delaney Creek Park Loop. Heading west, the trail makes a final climb 114
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Growing only in full sun, the native tickseed sunflower (Bidens aristosa) grows within open forested meadows, creating an array of bright golden, showy blooms. Flowering August to October, the plant is generally present within tall grasses. The American toad (Bufo americanus) is usually brown in color, while also ranging in shades of gray, red, olive, and tan. The toad generally appears warty and dry with dark spots on its back. One common feature in identifying the American toad is its parotid glands, which appear as bean-shaped formations behind the eyes. When a toad is attacked these glands secrete a fluid that leaves a bad taste in a predator’s mouth. The toad’s main diet consists of smaller invertebrates, including insects, spiders, earthworms, and millipedes. Laying up to 2,000 eggs, which hatch in about a week, the American toad has a high-pitched trill lasting around 10–20 seconds. Although their habitat is wide, grasslands and sparse woods are their primary home.
before heading back downhill toward Mile Marker 41. At this point the trail begins to lower into a smooth creekside valley, thereby creating an easy walk all the way to Mile Marker 42. As the trail continues its pleasant pace the path stretches along a community of evergreens; upon reaching Mile Marker 43, Spurgeon Hollow Lake comes into view. This particular area has a tendency to become flooded with ankle- or knee-high water from Spurgeon Hollow Lake, as the trail runs extremely close along the water’s edge. Frogs within 115
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Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
the moist conditions fill the evening hours with their croaking sounds, while floating lilies bloom near the edge of the water. This section of trail ends on the north shore of Spurgeon Hollow Lake next to a wide-open gravel parking area. Technically the trail ends at Delaney Creek Park after Mile Marker 47. However, the Spurgeon Hollow Trailhead serves as a final destination in which 43 miles can be accomplished while avoiding the Delaney Park crowds of car campers and the boat marina. There is a sense of solitude this way, and parking is on a hidden little gravel road in the midst of a small country community. The area is a place where horse-drawn wagons are still in use and are often seen traveling down the road amidst the expansive cornfields and historic wooden barns. Shortly after passing Mile Marker 43, an attachment trail with 3 more miles of hiking leads to Delaney Creek Park. The trail travels northeast and leads uphill to a wide-open field that, when logging operations are not present, can serve as a great camping spot with the nighttime sky in full view. Leading back downhill the trail crosses a section of seasonal creeks and eventually meets an intersection sign. Here the trail is directed either east toward the middle of the Delaney Creek Park Loop or west past Mile Marker 45, thence ending at Delaney Creek Park. 116
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Logging operations are a semi-permanent fi xture throughout the Knobstone Trail. One of the main uses of the land the Knobstone traverses is harvesting merchantable timber.
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Delaney Creek Park
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Adventure is wonderful, but there is no doubt that one of its joys is its end. Robert Marshall, Alask a Wilderness
Salem, Indiana—Hiking—9 miles Delaney Creek Park Trailhead N38° 43.505' W86° 02.085' Delaney Park Rd. Scottsburg, Indiana The first intersection where the trail attaches to the Delaney Park Loop occurs between Mile Markers 40 and 41. Since 2000, Knobstone maps have avoided confusion by adding a “d” for the Delaney loop and “s” for the Spurgeon section. After climbing a few high hilltops the trail remains along the ridgeline between Mile Markers 41d and 42d. One will quickly discover that this area, the Spurgeon section, and any other flat hilltop sections will constantly show evidence of heavy logging operations. Although typically beautiful and peaceful, the area surrounding Delaney is most often used to fulfill one of the forest’s main goals, that of lumber harvesting. While harvesting is being done the trail is temporarily re-routed. During logging operations, detailed signs direct hikers onto logging roads and fire lanes around any dangerous activity. The map on page 122 outlines with black lines the roads used for logging, servicing, and/or re-routing the trail. 119
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h I k I n g t h E k n oB s t on E t r a I l
Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
After Mile Marker 42d, the trail travels uphill until meeting a long, straight stretch of fl at pathway overgrown with grasses and wildflowers. Where the trees are thin, great views appear from both sides of the trail, especially in autumn as an ever-present breeze cools the shady forest. After reaching Mile Marker 43d the trail gets extremely difficult to follow, as logging roads have widened the flat area to a point where the tiny, narrow pathway becomes much like a needle in a haystack. Keep
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Common to Indiana’s open woods, the mapleleaf viburnum (Viburnum acerifolium) has red berry-like fruit that ripens to dark purple or black. While flowering May to July, by autumn the leaves may be purple-pink, red, or orange. The plant often grows along forested slopes where the soil is well drained within the understory of hardwood forests. Other common names are the possum-haw, dockmackie, flowering maple, arrow-wood, guelder-rose, and squashberry.
a watchful eye on white blazes as the trail passes several large fields recently logged to the intersecting trail that leads back toward the Spurgeon Hollow Trailhead. This intersecting trail begins as a wide gravel logging road heading southwest until the path slowly begins to narrow as it heads downhill. Through overgrown fields of greenbrier, the hard, rocky path eventually lowers into an area covered with pine trees and seasonal creeks. Lest you take this trail by mistake, it is best to take a compass bearing after reaching the intersection sign. At this point if your compass is leading you southwest, you are going the wrong way. The Knobstone continues directly north, where shortly afterward Mile Marker 44d will appear. The area after mile 44d remains a narrow pathway winding back and forth as tall trees shade the area. The trail takes a slight dip before crossing a seasonal creek, then slowly rises again, with waterbars serving as steps up the steep hill. Upon reaching the hilltop, the trail continues north, running parallel with a service road. As the trail winds up and over the ridgeline, scenic views are available to the east. Within the open forest, a constant breeze blows through the flat area, then once again the trail quickly descends downhill, passing a hilltop field and Mile Marker 45d. The trail remains in the low valley 121
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Hi k i n g t h e K n ob s t on e T r a i l
Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
only long enough to cross 2 seasonal creeks before heading back uphill. After conquering the incline with its frequent steep waterbars and forest debris, the trail levels off along a narrow path of low-lying brush and greenbrier. Meanwhile, hugging tightly to the side of the hill the path begins to work its way over the hillcrest. After crossing a service road several times the trail comes to Mile Marker 46d and an overgrown field. Here a wildlife pond appears and the path continues along the ridgeline. This area represents the last high area before slowly heading downhill along a narrow overgrown pathway. Continuing on, the path becomes covered by pine needles and 122
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De l a n e y C r ee k Pa r k
crosses a seasonal creek. At this point there is one final hill to cross. After a quick up and over, the trail meets a service road and Mile Marker 47 appears. While traveling down the other side of the hill the path runs into a seasonal creek so dry that, as evidence of truck tracks shows, it has been partly used as a service road. By turning west from the forested path, the seasonal creek eventually branches off and develops into a service road. By following this road the parking area for the trail is encountered directly outside the forest. Operated by the Washington County Parks and Recreation Department, Delaney Creek Park serves as the perfect final destination to celebrate the completion of the trail or, conversely, as a highly developed area to begin the journey. Among other amenities such as showers, phones, laundry facilities, cabin rentals, and primitive camping sites, the park also has a full-service fishing marina and Boat Loft Restaurant, which offers an “all you can eat” menu. Upcoming events, specials, and rental information can be found at www.delaneypark .com or by contacting the park manager.
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As the evening sun sets, the trail is shadowed with beams of broken light. 124
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Closing Contemplation
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Look at every path closely and deliberately, then ask ourselves this crucial question: Does this path have a heart? If it does, then the path is good. If it doesn’t, it is of no use. Carlos C astaneda, The Teachings of Don Juan: A Yaqui Way of Knowledge
Although it is an often underestimated pathway, the Knobstone Trail has at one time or another been mentioned with high regard in many published works as a state treasure. It has found its way into Outside magazine’s narrative on “America’s Top 50 Hikes,” as well as Backpacker magazine under “The People’s Choice.” Since the trail’s beginning, people from all walks of life have found enjoyment, inspiration, or, sadly, sometimes temporary misfortune while walking the trace. In September of 2000, two young children and their parents even made the local paper when the Salem Democrat published an article documenting their experience of being “Lost on Knobstone” within the Elk Creek section. With each new experience or story, these elements continue to nurture the legend of the trail, in turn solidifying the fact that another natural resource is preserved from the hands of development. It is important for everyone to enjoy this precious forest corridor and open up to the lessons it can teach on determination, preservation, and tranquility. Above and beyond, walking the trail end to end will serve as a springboard for countless other journeys that Indiana provides. 125
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Supplementary Materials
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Directions to Parks and Trailheads
Deam Lake Trailhead From Interstate 65 take Exit 16, Memphis. Drive west on Memphis–Blue Lick Road for 2.2 miles and turn left on Bartle Knob Road. Drive 2.8 miles to the intersection of Beyl and Mountain Grove roads. Go left on Beyl Road and follow for 2.7 miles to Crone Road. Go right on Crone for 1 mile. Turn right on Cummins Road and follow for 1.3 miles. Turn right on Wilson Switch Road and follow it to Deam Lake Trailhead, up on the left. Jackson Road Trailhead From Interstate 65 take Exit 16, Memphis. Go west on Memphis– Blue Lick Road for 2.2 miles and turn left on Bartle Knob Road. Follow Bartle Knob Road 6.3 miles to top of knobs and turn right on Hilltop Road. Follow Hilltop Road for 0.2 mile and turn right on gravel forest road. Follow the gravel road about 0.2 mile to Jackson Road Trailhead, which is on the right. New Chapel Trailhead From Interstate 65 take Exit 19, Henryville. Go west on State Road 160 5.4 miles, then turn right on Liberty Knob Road. Go 0.5 mile on Liberty Knob Road to the New Chapel Trailhead, which is on the right. Leota Trailhead From Interstate 65 take Exit 29, Salem. Go west on State Road 56 for 4.1 miles and turn left on Zion Road. Go 1 mile and turn 129
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right on Stagecoach Road. Go 1.1 miles and turn right on Leota Road. Go 1.3 miles to top of knobs and turn right on Saylor Road. Go 100 yards, then turn right into the gravel trailhead parking area.
S u p p l e m e n t a r y M at e r i a l s
Elk Creek Trailhead From Interstate 65 take Exit 29, Salem. Go west on State Road 56 for 7.8 miles and turn left on Elk Creek Road. Follow this road across old State Road 56 and continue on until the road turns to gravel. At this point, turn left and follow blacktop to Elk Creek Trailhead. John Stuart Oxley Memorial Trailhead From Interstate 65 take Exit 29, Salem. Go west on State Road 56 for 7.8 miles and turn right on Elk Creek Road. Go 50 yards and turn left on Mt. Hebron Road. Go 0.2 mile and turn right on Rutherford Hollow Road. Go 0.6 mile and turn left on Banes Hollow Road. Follow Banes Hollow Road for 1.5 miles to the John Stuart Oxley Trailhead, which is on the right. Spurgeon Hollow Trailhead From Interstate 65 take Exit 29, Salem. Take State Road 56 west about 18 miles to first stoplight in Salem. Turn right (north) on State Road 135 and go 3.5 miles, then turn right on Delaney Park Road. After 4.4 miles the road goes left after crossing an old iron bridge. At 5.6 miles from State Road 135 is Spurgeon Hollow Trailhead on the right down a gravel road. Delaney Creek Park Trailhead Continue on Delaney Park Road for 0.6 mile past Spurgeon Hollow Trailhead to get to Delaney Creek Park. Turn right into Delaney Creek Park and continue driving into and through the park past the beach house and follow the gravel road about 0.2 mile to the Delaney Creek Trailhead.
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Evolution of the Trail Maps
The first printed maps were a simple double-sided design and not very detailed. With its brown monotone cover, the inside of the map was minimalistic, showing the entire trail length with a black dotted line. Inside, the trail was described as a 57mile backcountry hiking trail. As of 1985, 15,000 maps had been distributed.
1985 map design. Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
The next printings in 1989 contained two versions of a more colorful green map with the trail’s black dotted line replaced with a clean green line representing the full length of the trail. On the first version of the map a price of 95¢ was added, then later removed on a second printing after the DNR received public complaints about charging for the maps. This was the first map to be printed in full color.
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S u p p l e m e n t a r y M at e r i a l s
1989 map design. Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
The third map design was created in 2000 with a new picture and a blue monotone cover. On this map the green line representing the trail remained, while new mile markers on the map were put in place as green numerical circles. This was the first map to mention the John Stuart Oxley Memorial Trailhead, built in 1999.
2000 map design. Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
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The map design remained the same until 2003, when there was a complete revamp. Dale Brier and Mike Martin worked together to produce a stunning, more accurate map of superb brilliance and topographical detail. Much larger than any previous map, reaching a size of 24"×36" on waterproof paper, the new, more accurate, and colorful design now held a fitting depiction of the trail with a cover photo by John Maxwell. The new map design had the trail changed to a bright red line with white mile markers and more detailed elevation information.
E v o l u t ion of t h e T r a i l M a p s
2003 map design. Courtesy of Indiana Department of Natural Resources
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Bibliography
“America’s Top 50 Hikes: The Finest in Every State.” Outside Magazine, April 1996, 112. “Blazing the Knobstone Trail.” Salem Democrat, May 19, 1994. Braun, Emma Lucy. Deciduous Forests of Eastern North America. Caldwell, N.J.: Blackburn Press, 2001. Chauser. Indiana’s State Forest and Forest Recreation Area System Report, Procedure Manual, Section A. September 17, 2007. A-1–6. Conceptual Development Plan for the Knobstone Trail. Division of Outdoor Recreation, Indiana Department of Natural Resources, n.d. Evans, Arthur V., and Craig Tufts. National Wildlife Federation Field Guide to Insects and Spiders and Related Species of North America. Grand Rapids, Mich.: Sterling Co., 2007. Fischer, Burnell C. “State Forester’s Welcome.” Letter. In Forests of Indiana: Their Economic Importance. United States Department of Agriculture. http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/forestprod/indiana_forest04/ forests_of_IN04.htm (accessed May 2, 2004). Homoya, Michael A., D. Brian Abrell, James R. Aldrich, and Thomas W. Post. “The Natural Regions of Indiana.” Proceedings of the Indiana Academy of Science 94 (1985): 245–268. Indiana Department of Natural Resources. “Clark State Forest.” http:// www.in.gov/dnr/forestry/6467.htm (accessed July 1, 2007). ———. “Jackson-Washington State Forest.” http://www.in.gov/dnr/ forestry/6447.htm (accessed July 1, 2007). Jackson, Marion T., ed. The Natural Heritage of Indiana. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1997. Jenkins, Mark. “The People’s Choice.” Backpacker, September 1993, 28–29. “John Muir’s New Book.” New York Times, January 4, 1902. http://query .nytimes.com/mem/archive-free/pdf?res=9803E2D91E39EF32A25757C0 A9679C946397D6CF (accessed June 6, 2010). Knobstone Trail Estimated Acquisition and Development Budget. Department of Natural Resources, 1980. Knobstone Trail Land Acquisition Report. No. 18-00364. Department of Natural Resources, October 10, 1984. Machan, Wayne. Fish and Wildlife Restoration in Indiana. Pittman-Robertson Bulletin No. 17. Indiana Department of Natural Resources, 1986. Magee, Alyson. “Memorial Fits Spirit of Jeff, Purdue Graduate.” Lafayette Leader, April 9, 1999. Mallott, Clyde. Handbook of Indiana Geology. Indiana Department of Conservation, published for the 1951 Indiana Geologic Field Conference. Martin, Mike. “Celebration of the Knobstone Trail.” News release, April 18, 1990.
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B ib l i o g r a p h y
———. E-mail message to author, April 3, 2008. McPherson, Alan. Nature Walks in Southern Indiana, 3rd ed., 151–162. Indianapolis: Hoosier Chapter/Sierra Club, 1995. Miller, Rodney G. Letter to Dennis Wolkoff, July 7, 1978. 1987 Knobstone Trail Report. Streams and Trails Section, Division of Outdoor Recreation, Indiana Department of Natural Resources, 1987. 1985 Knobstone Trail Report. Streams and Trails Section, Division of Outdoor Recreation, Indiana Department of Natural Resources, 1985. 1983 Knobstone Trail Report. Streams and Trails Section, Division of Outdoor Recreation, Indiana Department of Natural Resources, 1983. Oxley, Jerry. John Stuart Oxley: Biographical sketch, October 14, 1998. Indiana Department of Natural Resources public records. Pagac, Jerry. E-mail messages to author, October 30, 2007; March 3, 2008; March 17, 2008. Payne, Joe. E-mail messages to author, March 3, 2008; March 5, 2008; March 10, 2008; March 17, 2008; April 9, 2008. ———. “Knobstone Trail Reflections.” Outdoor Indiana, April 1981, 5–16. ———. Telephone interview with author, March 15, 2008. Schultz, Cynthia. “Crown Jewel.” Indiana Weekly, October 18, 1995. Smith, Cecil J. “Hiker Memorialized with Knobstone Trailhead Marker.” Salem Leader, April 27, 1999. ———. “Lost on Knobstone.” Salem Democrat, September 7, 2000. Stockdale, Paris B. The Borden (Knobstone) Rocks of Southern Indiana. Indiana Department of Conservation, Division of Geology, 1931.
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Index
all-terrain vehicles, 41 ATVs, 84, 90, 93, 98–100 American bellflowers, 101, 104 American toad, 115 Armstrong, Nila, 36 backcountry area, 17, 44 Bane Hollow Road, 110, 113 map, 108 Bartle Knob Road, 61 driving directions, 129 map, 64–65 Becker, Rex, 19 bedrock physiographic units, 2 beech, 42 Blue Lick, 61, 70 Blue Lick Road, 129 Borden Strata, 3 Bowen Lake, 81–82 water location chart, 48 Bowen Loop horse trail, 82–83 map, 80–81 Brier, Dale, 132 cache location list, 49 camp location list, 47 Canton, 107 cardinal, 42–43 chestnut oak, 42, 76, 78 Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), 1–2 Clark State Forest history, 1, 53 trail construction, 10, 12, 14 Cloud, Joe, 11–13 County Line Road / Oak Hill Road, 99 map, 96 coyote, 93 Deam, Charles, 53
Deam Lake State Recreation Area, 53 trail construction, 14–15, 18 map, 52 Deam Lake Trailhead, 55 directions, 129 degraded farm land, 1 Delaney Creek Park, 119 camp location chart, 47 directions, 130 map, 120 Director of the Department of Natural Resources, 11. See also Cloud, Joe Director of the Division of Outdoor Recreation, 11. See also Pagac, Jerry Director of the Division of State Parks, 11. See also Walters, Bill Division of Outdoor Recreation, 10–11, 23 Dowling Hollow, 107 Eastern box turtle, 58 Eastern chipmunk, 104 elevation charts Mile Marker 0–4, 59 Mile Marker 4–8, 66 Mile Marker 8–12, 71 Mile Marker 12–16, 79 Mile Marker 16–20, 84 Mile Marker 20–24, 88 Mile Marker 24–28, 96 Mile Marker 28–32, 101 Mile Marker 32–36, 106 Mile Marker 36–40, 110 Mile Marker 40–44, 112 Mile Marker 40–44d Delaney Park Loop, 118 Mile Marker 44d–47d Delaney Park Loop, 120
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Index
Elk Creek Lake State Fishing Area, 107 trail construction, 12, 17, 23 European expansion, 1 Federal Comprehensive Employment and Training Act, 15 Firetower Road map, 78 Flower Gap horse trail, 55, 59 map, 56–57 Garrett Hollow, 105 Geronimo–Boy Scout Hill, 76 global positioning system (GPS), 4 Deam Lake Trailhead GPS coordinates, 55 Delaney Creek Park Trailhead GPS coordinates, 119 Elk Creek Lake Trailhead GPS coordinates, 107 Jackson Road Trailhead GPS coordinates, 67 John Stuart Oxley Memorial Trailhead GPS coordinates, 113 Leota Trailhead GPS coordinates, 97 New Chapel Trailhead GPS coordinates, 85 Spurgeon Hollow Trailhead GPS coordinates, 113 gray fox, 110 great horned owl, 74 greenbrier, 60 Henryville, 70 Herron Hollow, 113 hickory, 42 history of the trail, 7–27 illegal dirt bike activity, 14 Indian physic, 70 Indiana Heritage Program, 11 Indiana State Forest System, 53 The Indiana Wilderness Challenge, 17 Indianapolis Hiking Club, 17 The Irwin-Sweeney-Miller Foundation, 18 Jackson Road Trailhead, 67
cache location list, 49 directions, 129 map, 68–69 Johanningsmeier, Chris, 33, 36 John Stewart Oxley Memorial Trailhead, 113. See also Oxley, John Stewart cache location list, 49 directions, 130 map, 114 Kidd, Tom, 19 Klankamp, Dan, 36 Knobstone Escarpment, 3 Kress, Emily, 36 land acquisition, 1, 3, 11–13, 23–24 Land and Water Conservation Fund, 9 Lash, Jack, 19 Leota Trailhead, 97 cache location list, 49 directions, 129 trail construction, 17 Liberty Road, 83, 85 map, 80–81 Lilly Endowment, 18 Lino Lane, 98–99 cache location list, 49 lumber harvesting, 118–119 maple, 42 mapleleaf viburnum, 121 maps of the Knobstone Trail Deam Lake State Recreation Area, 52 evolution of the trail maps, 131–133 geology map, 2 Lino Lane, 98 location map, vi logging roads, 122 Mile Marker 0–2, 56–57 Mile Marker 3–4, 64–65 Mile Marker 5–8, 68–69 Mile Marker 7–10, 72–73 Mile Marker 11–13, 78 Mile Marker 14–17, 80–81 Mile Marker 17–19, 89 Mile Marker 20–24, 92 Mile Marker 24–28, 96
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National Forest Roads and Trails Act, 9 Native American sign tree, 28–32 The Nature Conservancy (TNC), 11–13, 24, 27 New Chapel Trailhead, 85 cache location list, 49 directions, 129 map, 89 New Cut Road, 113 cache location list, 49 New Philadelphia, 107 New Salem Finley Knob Road, 93 Norman Upland, 3 North Branch Creek, 88, 90 water location list, 49 Nowing Hollow, 107 Ode to Elk Creek (poem), 24 Olisco, 70 Outdoor Indiana magazine, 25 Overbey, Neal, 19 Oxley, John Stewart, 32–36. See also John Stewart Oxley Memorial Trailhead Pagac, Jerry, 10–13, 18–19, 27 pasture rose, 55, 58 Payne, Joe, 11, 16, 18, 22, 25 phlox, 100 Pixley Knob Road, 71–72
cache location list, 49 map, 72–73 Poindexter fire lane, 71 map, 72–73 Pumpkin Center / East Pull Tight Road, 114 rock carvings, 66–67 Round Knob, 68 Rutherford Hollow, 109 sassafras, 42 Satterwhite, Mike, 36 Scottsburg Lowland, 3 Shantaky Hollow, 109 Sherwood, Paul, 19 Shidaker, Connie, 25 wall sculpture, 26 Smith, Scot, 20 Smith Hollow, 105 Smolik, Bob, 20 South Branch Creek, 82, 85 Spurgeon Hollow Trailhead, 113 directions, 130 map, 116 squawroot, 77 State Comprehensive Outdoor Recreation Plan (SCORP), 9–10 State Road 56, 24, 107–109 cache location list, 49 State Road 160, 76 cache location list, 49 Streams and Trails coordinator, 11. See also Payne, Joe
Index
Mile Marker 28–32, 102–103 Mile Marker 33–37, 108 Mile Marker 37–40, 114 Mile Marker 40–43s, 41d–42d, Spurgeon Hollow Loop, 116 Mile Marker 43d–47d, Delaney Park Loop, 120 Martin, Mike, 19, 132 Martindale, Jay, 19 mayapple, 77 McCormick, Bob, 12 McCormick Timber Company, 11–12, 23 McKnight Hollow, 105 Monroe County, 3–4 Monroe Hollow, 101 Morris, Steve, 36 Mountain Grove horse trail, 45, 71 map, 68–69
Table Rock Road, 76 tall ironweed, 87 tickseed sunflower, 115 trail maintenance tools, 4–5 tulip poplar, 42 Vic Swain Hill, 98–99 Virginia Pine–Chestnut Oak Nature Preserve, 78–79 Walters, Bill, 11 Washington County, 17, 24, 123 water location list, 48 West Point Road / Mail Route Road, 114 cache location list, 49 139
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Young Adult Conservation Corps, 15 Youth Conservation Board of Washington County, 17 Zak, Walt, 18, 32
Index
white-tailed deer, 88 wild bergamot, 99 Wolkoff, Dennis, 11–13, 27 wood thrush, 43 woodland sunflower, 100
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Books in the Indiana Natural Science Series 101 Trees of Indiana: A Field Guide by Marion T. Jackson and Katherine Harrington; photographs by Ron Rathfon Mammals of Indiana, Revised and Enlarged Edition by John O. Whitaker, Jr., and Russell E. Mumford Indiana’s Weather and Climate by John E. Oliver Mammals of Indiana: A Field Guide by John O. Whitaker, Jr. Habitats and Ecological Communities of Indiana: Pre-settlement to Present edited by John O. Whitaker, Jr., and Charles J. Amlaner A Guide to the Knobstone Trail: Indiana’s Longest Footpath by Nathan D. Strange Fishes of Indiana: A Field Guide by Thomas P. Simon; illustrations by Joseph R. Tomelleri Common Wildflowers and Ferns of Indiana Forests: A Field Guide by Michael A. Homoya
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Nathan D. Str ange was born is Louisville, Kentucky, in 1979. Years of backpacking expeditions inspired him to begin writing about the natural world and to pursue an educational background in environmental science. Nathan lives in Lexington, Kentucky, where he works as a writer while completing a bachelor’s degree in Natural Resource Conservation and Management at the University of Kentucky.
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This book was designed by Jamison Cockerham and set in type by Tony Brewer at Indiana University Press and printed by Four Colour Imports, Ltd. The typeface is Chaparral Pro, designed by Carol Twombly in 2000, issued by Adobe Systems.
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