Cooking the Austrian Way (Easy Menu Ethnic Cookbooks)

easy

menu

ethnic

cookbooks

Cooking r e v i s e d

a n d

e x p a n d e d

t h e t o

i n c l u d e

n e w

l o w - f a t

AUSTRIAN

a n d

v e g e t a r i a n

r e c i p e s

w a y H

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Cooking t h e

AUSTRIAN w a y

Disclaimer:

Some images in the original version of this book are not

available for inclusion in the eBook.

To my cooking teacher, Frau Anna Merighi, whose favorite saying was “Liebe geht durch den Magen,” (“Love goes through the stomach”) Copyright © 2004 by Lerner Publications Company All rights reserved. International copyright secured. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without the prior written permission of Lerner Publications Company, except for the inclusion of brief quotations in an acknowledged review. Lerner Publications Company, A division of Lerner Publishing Group 241 First Avenue North Minneapolis, MN 55401 U.S.A. Website address: www.lernerbooks.com

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Hughes, Helga. Cooking the Austrian way / by Helga Hughes.—Rev. and expanded. p. cm. — (Easy menu ethnic cookbooks) Summary: An introduction to the cooking of Austria including such traditional recipes as Wiener schnitzel, potato noodles, and Sacher cake. Also includes information on the geography, customs, and people of this European country. eISBN: 0–8225–1698–5 1. Cookery, Austrian—Juvenile literature. 2. Austria—Social life and customs—Juvenile literature. [1. Cookery, Austrian. 2. Austria—Social life and customs.] I. Title. II. Series. TX721 .H82 2004 641.59436—dc21 2002152146 Manufactured in the United States of America 1 2 3 4 5 6 – JR – 09 08 07 06 05 04

easy

menu

ethnic

cookbooks

Cooking r e v i s e d

a n d

e x p a n d e d

t h e t o

i n c l u d e

n e w

l o w - f a t

AUSTRIAN a n d

v e g e t a r i a n

r e c i p e s

w a y Helga Hughes a Lerner Publications Company • Minneapolis

Contents

INTRODUCTION, 7

AN AUSTRIAN TABLE, 25

The Land and Its People, 8 Regional Cooking, 9 Holidays and Festivals, 10

An Austrian Menu, 26 BREAKFAST, 29

BEFORE YOU BEGIN, 17

Jelly Rolls, 30 Cinnamon and Almond Snails, 32

The Careful Cook, 18 Cooking Utensils, 19 Cooking Terms, 19 Special Ingredients, 20 Healthy and Low-Fat Cooking Tips, 22 Metric Conversions Chart, 23

DINNER, 35

Egg Custard Soup, 36 Paprika Chicken, 37 Breaded Veal, 38 Trout Vienna Style, 41 Potato Noodles, 42

Cooked Potato Salad, 43 Broccoli Salad with Bacon, 45 Cucumber Salad, 46 Mixed Green Salad, 46

Tomato Baskets, 60 Salami Cones, 60 Herb-Stuffed Eggs, 61 Smoked Salmon-Stuffed Eggs, 61

DESSERTS & PASTRIES, 49

HOLIDAY & FESTIVAL

Linzer Cake, 50 Salzburger Sweet Soufflé, 53 Sacher Cake, 54

FOOD, 63

SUPPER, 57

Bacon Bread, 64 Holiday Fruit Bread, 66 Fried Carp, 67 Red Cabbage with Apples, 68

Pork Stew, 58 Colorful Variety Platter, 60

INDEX, 70

Introduction

Austrian cuisine typifies the saying that “variety is the spice of life.” Throughout Austrian history, different groups of people settled in the country, and each group brought its own customs and cuisine. As the various groups mixed, they helped shape Austrian culture. In ancient times, Celts and Romans settled in Austria, and the country became part of the Roman Empire. Later, various Germanic groups and Magyars (Hungarians) settled there. Austria had various rulers until the tenth century A.D., when the Babenberg family gained control. The Babenbergs ruled for two hundred years, and Vienna became an important trading center during their reign. Crusaders (Christian soldiers who fought to win Palestine from the Muslims during the eleventh, twelfth, and thirteenth centuries) stopped in Vienna on their way home from the Middle East. They brought sugarcane, muscat, and spices such as pepper, ginger, cinna­ mon, cloves, and nutmeg, which Austrians incorporated into their foods. In 1278 the powerful Habsburg family took control of Austria and acquired surrounding regions. In 1683, under Habsburg rule, Austria

Austrian cooking is influenced by many world cuisines. A hearty Austrian dinner might

include paprika chicken (recipe on page 37), potato noodles (recipe on page 42), and

egg custard soup (recipe on page 36).

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CZECH REPUBLIC

Danu be Riv e r

SLOVAKIA

Linz

SWITZERLAND GERMANY

LOWER AUSTRIA

Eisenstadt Neusiedler Lake

Salzburg

AUSTRIA

Bregenz TIROL

Vienna

VIENNA

UPPER AUSTRIA

BURGENLAND

HUNGARY

Innsbruck

SALZBURG STYRIA

VORARLBERG

Graz

TIROL

LIECHTENSTEIN ITALY

CARINTHIA

Klagenfurt

SLOVENIA

conquered Hungary and became the center of a huge and powerful empire. Austrian cooking was influenced yet again—by foods from Romania and the former republics of Czechoslovakia and Yugoslavia. During the 1700s and 1800s, famous composers such as Mozart and Haydn lived in Austria. The Habsburgs ruled this cultural center, the Austrian Empire, for six hundred years, until its downfall during World War I (1914–1918). The empire consisted of more than fifty million people and included twelve nationalities. Many of Austria’s famous recipes developed as a result of this long and complex history.

The Land and Its People Austria is only about the size of Maine, but it has a population of more than 7.5 million people—approximately six times the popu­ lation of Maine. Austria is bordered by Switzerland and

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Liechtenstein to the west; Germany, the Czech Republic, and Slovakia to the north; Hungary to the east; and Slovenia and Italy to the south. The Alps stretch across the western, southern, and central parts of Austria and form the dominant feature of the country. In many places, beautiful, green valleys lie between the mountains. Austria also has many lovely lakes and dense forests. Austria’s scenic beauty attracts millions of tourists each year. Vienna, the capital of Austria and its largest city, lies on the Danube River. Other large Austrian cities include Salzburg, Innsbruck, Linz, and Graz. Like the United States, the heritage of Austria has been enriched by the mixture of many different cultures. In Austria most city dwellers live in apartment buildings. Town and village residents usually live in single-family homes. However, housing styles vary from region to region. German, the official language of Austria, is spoken by 98 percent of the people. Austrians’ lifestyles reflect their rich history. They are proud that Austria continues to be a leading cultural center of Europe. Most Austrians enjoy art, music, outdoor sports, and good food. Austrians also place great importance on the preparation of their food.

Regional Cooking Wiener schnitzel is probably Austria’s most popular dish. In the movie The Sound of Music, set in Austria, Julie Andrews even sings that schnitzel and noodles are one of her favorite things. Yet each of Austria’s nine provinces (Burgenland, Carinthia, Lower Austria, Salzburg, Styria, Tirol, Upper Austria, the city of Vienna, and Vorarlberg) claims fame for a culinary specialty. Both Lower Austria, the chief wine-producing area of the country, and Vienna are renowned for their coffeehouses and delicious pastries.

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People in Styria, a southeastern province, prepare hearty meals, such as Fridatten, a soup made from sliced, rolled pancakes in a bouillon broth, or Styrisches Schweineres, a one-pot stew. The southernmost province is Carinthia, where Austria’s highest peak, the 12,641-foot (3,853-meter) Gross Glockner is located. Many inns still use old family recipes to cook fish and game, which are abundant in this province. Nothing is wasted—not even the bones, which are used for broth. Carinthians are also proud of the many kinds of noodles they offer—savory noodles filled with ham, bacon, mushrooms, or cottage cheese, as well as sweet noodles filled with dried fruit and covered with melted butter and sugar. Salzburg, the smallest province and birthplace of Mozart, is best known for music. However, it is also acclaimed for its Nockerln, a sweet dessert soufflé. The southwestern province of Tirol is famous for its cheese, per­ haps because the grazing pastures for the cows are so high in the mountains. The Bergbauern (mountain peasants) also make Bauernspeck (smoked peasants’ bacon) in winter.This bacon plays a major role in Austrian cooking since it is used in salads, soups, sauerkraut, dumplings, and other foods. Besides the cuisine of the various provinces, Austrian cooking has also been influenced by Czech, Slovakian, German, and Hungarian foods. They add to the variety and flavor of many Austrian dishes.

Holidays and Festivals Holidays and festivals play a very important role in Austrian life. About 80 percent of Austrians are Roman Catholic, so many holidays and festivals reflect this. Other Austrians are Protestant, Jewish, Greek and Russian Orthodox, or Muslim. Every province in Austria honors a particular saint and celebrates its own saint’s day. Austrians also hold other festivals to celebrate such events as seasons or harvests. In sum­ mer big cities such as Salzburg and Vienna hold major arts festivals.

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Holiday parade participants and some audience members dress in traditional lederhosen and dirndls.

On holidays some Austrians dress in traditional national or regional outfits. Men and boys wear lederhosen, short trousers gathered just below the knee. Women and girls wear dirndls—outfits consisting of a bright blouse, skirt, and apron. Probably the most important, unforgettable, and magical holiday of the year in Austria is Christmas. Cities sparkle with holiday lights and ornamented trees, and outdoor music concerts abound. Colorful mar­ kets, smelling of roasted chestnuts, Gluhwein (hot spiced wine), and Punsch (wine-spiked fruit punch), are set up all over city centers. At the markets, vendors sell a huge variety of crafts, drinks, and foods includ­ ing pretzels, candies and other sweets, and fluffy pancakes shredded and served with stewed plums. Potato fritters, strudels, sausages, and the tra­ ditional Lebkuchen—usually made with gingerbread, cinnamon, honey, and orange or lemon peels—are also served. Colorful desserts, including pastries, fruit breads, cakes, and other sweets, are beautifully displayed in pastry shops and are

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prepared in homes during the festive Christmas season. These delica­ cies include cookies such as Lebkuchen; Vanillekipferl, or vanilla cres­ cents; and Zimtsterne, or cinnamon stars, made with almonds, lemon juice, and cinnamon. Christmas festivities begin early in Austria. Four weeks before Christmas, Austrians hang wreaths made from evergreen twigs twined with red ribbon from their ceilings. Four red candles are set in a circle, and on the fourth Sunday before Christmas, one candle is lit, on the third Sunday, two candles are lit, and by the Sunday before Christmas, all four are burning.

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Austrians celebrate Christmas Eve, December 24, by unveiling an elegantly decorated Christmas tree and exchanging presents. Families sing carols, particularly Austria’s favorite and most famous carol, “Silent Night,” written in Austria in the early 1800s. Austrian families sit down to a large, festive meal, traditionally of fried carp (a type of fish) served with potato balls, cucumber salad, and mushroom rice. In some regions, roast pork or Wiener schnitzel is the traditional Christmas Eve dinner. After dinner some Austrian families attend Midnight Mass at church. Christmas Day is a holy day for resting, quiet celebration, or attend­ ing church services. Austrians usually enjoy a long dinner with fami­ ly and friends. A traditional Christmas Day dinner includes roast goose, red cabbage, potato dumplings, and a variety of Christmas breads and sweets. Austrians often continue the celebration to December 26 with elaborate meals and visits from family and friends. Many people, especially those who live in cities, also attend musical concerts and other performances. On New Year’s Eve, people merrily shoot off fireworks throughout the country at midnight. In Vienna a huge party takes place in front of famous St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Some partygoers gather there and wait for the church bell to ring at midnight. Then they pop open their cham­ pagne bottles and light fireworks.Vienna’s streets come alive during this holiday with music under tents and vendors selling snacks. Orchestra, opera, and symphony concerts take place, including the traditional New Year’s Day Vienna Philharmonic Concert. An elegant New Year’s dinner might include lemon soup, duck, potato baskets, apple salad, pastries, and coffee. It is customary to give friends and relatives good-luck charms for the New Year. Charms include marzipan pigs—a dessert made of almond paste, sugar, and egg whites and shaped into adorable pig faces—and small sponge cake cookies in the shape of fish.The recip­ ient must bite the head off the fish first for good luck. Austria’s Christians celebrate Heilige Drei Könige, or Epiphany, on January 6. The holiday commemorates how three Wise Men from the East looked for the newly born Jesus. Children dress as the Three Wise

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Men, usually in long white nightshirts and crowns painted gold. They go from house to house singing and asking for gifts of food. Their neighbors reward them with cookies or chocolate. In late winter, most Austrians celebrate Carnival (called Fasching in German) to symbolically chase away the evil spirits of winter. People play music, dress in costumes, parade with decorated floats, dance, and hold parties. In Vienna the most famous and glorious events of Fasching are the balls. These elegant, formal dances are held throughout the sea­ son in huge dance halls. Almost every profession—including hunters, police officers, and bakers—holds a ball. There is even a children’s ball. Faschingskrapfen, a kind of doughnut with jam, is a common sight in store­ fronts during this time. The merriment of Fasching comes to an end on Aschermittwoch (Ash Wednesday), the beginning of the forty days of Lent, or the solemn time of fasting before Easter. Meat, eggs, and dairy products are forbid­ den during Lent, but strict fasting is rare in Austria. On Aschermittwoch, many Austrians still eat Heringschmaus, pickled herring and onions, since fish is allowed during Lent. Easter falls in March or April. It commemorates both springtime and the Christian belief in Jesus Christ rising from the dead. As with other holidays in Austria, food plays a prominent role. Main courses for Easter dinner include whole pig, ham, lamb, or rabbit. Pastries and breads are also a big part of Easter meals, including bread with raisins baked in twisted or braided strands.After the meal, coffee and Sacher torte, a deli­ cious cake made with chocolate and apricot jam, may be served. In May and June, Vienna holds a large musical arts festival. For more than a month in late summer, Salzburg holds its art festival, with thou­ sands of performances including theater, opera, music concerts, and street performances. In September Austrians who live in rural areas celebrate good har­ vests. During harvest festivals, people decorate the altars of village churches with fruits, grains, and flowers. Processions are led by animals who are decorated with wreaths and flowers, pulling carts of large wreaths of grains.

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Among the merriest celebrations in Austria are vintage festivals, celebrated in wine-producing areas, usually in early October. These fes­ tivals celebrate the year’s grape harvest and wine making.Villagers hang bunches of grapes around town, play music, and sing and dance in the streets. They decorate the markets with huge wine casks. Austrians celebrate Allerheiligen (All Saints’ Day) on November 1. This Christian holy day commemorates all the saints of the Church.The next day, November 2, is Allerseelen (All Souls’ Day), a time to honor the dead.Austrians carry burning candles and dried flowers to the graves of loved ones. In parts of the province of Tirol, in southwestern Austria, it is a custom to leave food out overnight on the kitchen table for the dead who may return on that day. Martinstag (St. Martin’s Day) is celebrated on November 11, mostly in the province of Burgenland, in eastern Austria.This holiday honors St. Martin, a monk who lived in the fourth century.The goose is the animal symbol of St. Martin, and traditional meals of roast goose are served on this day. Ceremonies and parades take place, often with children dis­ playing homemade paper or wooden lanterns.

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Before You Begin

Cooking any dish, plain or fancy, is easier and more fun if you are familiar with its ingredients. Austrian cooking uses some ingredients that you may not know. You should be familiar with the special terms that will be used in various recipes in this book. Therefore, before you start cooking any of the Austrian dishes in this book, study the following “dictionary” of utensils, terms, and special ingredients very carefully. Then read through each recipe you want to try from beginning to end. You are then ready to shop for ingredients and to organize the cookware you will need. Once you have assembled everything, you can begin to cook. It is also important to read “The Careful Cook” before you start. Following these rules will make your cooking experience safe, fun, and easy.

Trout Vienna Style (recipe on page 41) and broccoli salad with bacon (recipe on page

45) make an attractive and nutritious meal.

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The Careful Cook Whenever you cook, there are certain safety rules you must always keep in mind. Even experienced cooks follow these rules when they are in the kitchen. • Always wash your hands before handling food. Thoroughly wash all raw vegetables and fruits to remove dirt, chemicals, and insecticides. Wash uncooked poultry, fish, and meat under cold water. • Use a cutting board when cutting up vegetables and fruits. Don’t cut them up in your hand! And be sure to cut in a direction away from you and your fingers. • Long hair or loose clothing can easily catch fire if brought near the burners of a stove. If you have long hair, tie it back before you start cooking. • Turn all pot handles toward the back of the stove so that you will not catch your sleeves or jewelry on them. This is especially important when younger brothers and sisters are around. They could easily knock off a pot and get burned. • Always use a pot holder to steady hot pots or to take pans out of the oven. Don’t use a wet cloth on a hot pan because the steam it produces could burn you. • Lift the lid of a steaming pot with the opening away from you so that you will not get burned. • If you get burned, hold the burn under cold running water. Do not put grease or butter on it. Cold water helps to take the heat out, but grease or butter will only keep it in. • If grease or cooking oil catches fire, throw baking soda or salt at the bottom of the flame to put it out. (Water will not put out a grease fire.) Call for help, and try to turn all the stove burners to “off.”

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Cooking Utensils bread pan—A baking pan in the shape of a loaf of bread colander—A bowl with holes in the bottom and sides. It is used for draining liquid from solid food. double boiler—Two saucepans that fit together so the contents in the upper pan can be heated by boiling water in the lower pan grater—A utensil with sharp-edged holes, used to grate food into small pieces potato ricer—A utensil in which foods are pressed through small holes to produce pieces in the shape of rice grains rolling pin—A cylindrical tool used for rolling out dough sieve—A bowl-shaped utensil made of wire or plastic mesh, used to wash or drain small, fine foods slotted spoon—A spoon with small openings in the bowl. It is used to remove solid food from liquid. springform pan—A pan with a detachable rim steaming basket—A metal basket that fits inside a saucepan and allows food to be cooked with steam whisk—A wire utenstil used for beating food by hand

Cooking Terms beat—To stir rapidly in a circular motion boil—To heat a liquid over high heat until bubbles form and rise rap­ idly to the surface brown—To cook food quickly over high heat so that the surface turns an even brown dice—To chop food into small, square pieces

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fold—To blend an ingredient with other ingredients by using a gentle, overturning circular motion instead of by stirring or beating garnish—To decorate with small pieces of food, such as chopped parsley grate—To cut into tiny pieces by rubbing the food against a grater hard-boil—To cook an egg in its shell until both the yolk and the white are firm marinate—To soak a food in a seasoned liquid pinch—A very small amount, usually what you can pick up between your thumb and forefinger preheat—To allow an oven to warm up to a certain temperature before putting food into it sauté—To fry in a small amount of oil or other fat, stirring or turning the food to prevent burning sift—To put an ingredient, such as flour or sugar, through a sifter to break up any lumps simmer—To cook over low heat in liquid kept just below its boiling point. Bubbles may occasionally rise to the surface. steam—To cook food with the steam from boiling water whip—To beat an ingredient, such as cream or egg whites, until light and fluffy

Special Ingredients apple cider vinegar—A vinegar made from apple cider

bay leaf—The dried leaf of the bay tree (also called European laurel)

bittersweet chocolate—Dark chocolate made with less sugar than milk

chocolate

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bouillon cube—A compressed mixture of spices, seasoning, oils, and often a meat extract, used to make broth and add flavor to other foods bread crumbs—Pieces of stale bread broken into small chunks by crush­ ing the bread with a rolling pin or the bottom of a glass. Grocery stores sell packaged bread crumbs. buttermilk—Cultured milk made by adding a certain bacteria to sweet milk chives—A member of the onion family. The thin, green stalks are chopped and used as a garnish and a flavoring. cinnamon—A spice made from the bark of a tree in the laurel family. It is available ground and in sticks. farina—A fine meal made from grain. It is used chiefly for puddings or as a breakfast cereal. garlic—An herb whose distinctive flavor is used in many dishes. Each bulb can be broken up into several small sections called cloves. Most recipes use only one or two cloves. Before chopping a garlic clove, remove its papery covering. nutmeg—A fragrant spice that is often used in ground form in desserts paprika—A red seasoning made from the dried, ground pods of the capsicum pepper plant. It adds hot or sweet flavor to foods. parsley—A green, leafy herb used as a seasoning and as a garnish slivered almonds—Almonds that have been split into thin strips spicy brown mustard—A condiment made from mustard seeds, vinegar, sea­ soning, and spices tarragon vinegar—A vinegar made from a blend of distilled wine vine­ gars, salt, sugar, herbs, spices, and fragrant tarragon leaves.Tarragon is a European wormwood plant. vanilla extract—A liquid made from vanilla beans that is used to flavor food

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Healthy and Low-fat Cooking Tips Many modern cooks are concerned about preparing healthy, low-fat meals. Here are a few simple ways to reduce the fat content of the recipes in this book. Specific suggestions for individual recipes appear throughout the book. Don’t worry, they’ll still taste delicious! Many recipes call for butter or oil to fry meats, vegetables, or other ingredients. Using oil lowers fat right away, but you can also reduce the amount of oil you use. You can substitute a low-fat or nonfat cooking spray. Sprinkling a little salt on the vegetables brings out their natural juices, so you need less oil. Use a nonstick frying pan if you decide to use less butter or oil than the recipe calls for. Substitute margarine for butter. Before making this substitution, consider the recipe. If it is a dessert, it’s often best to use butter. Margarine may change the taste or consistency of the food. Dairy products can be a source of unwanted fat. Replace heavy cream with half-and-half. Use fat-free evaporated milk instead of sweetened condensed milk. Many cheeses are available in reducedfat or nonfat varieties, but these often don’t melt as well. Reduce fat by using low-fat or nonfat yogurt in place of sour cream. Another easy way to reduce the fat from cheese is simply to use less of it. To avoid losing flavor, try using a stronger-tasting cheese. Meat is an essential part of many Austrian meals. Some cooks replace ground beef with ground turkey, tofu, or chicken to lower fat. This changes the flavor, so you may need to experiment a bit. Using extra-lean ground beef is also an easy way to reduce fat. When recipes call for chicken broth, use low-fat varieties or veg­ etable broth. Lower the cholesterol in dishes containing eggs by using an egg substitute. Meals can be good for you and still taste great. As you become more experienced, try experimenting with recipes and substitutions to find the methods that work best for you.

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METRIC CONVERSIONS Cooks in the United States measure both liquid and solid ingredients using standard containers based on the 8-ounce cup and the tablespoon. These measurements are based on volume, while the metric system of measure­ ment is based on both weight (for solids) and volume (for liquids).To con­ vert from U.S. fluid tablespoons, ounces, quarts, and so forth to metric liters is a straightforward conversion, using the chart below. However, since solids have different weights—one cup of rice does not weigh the same as one cup of grated cheese, for example—many cooks who use the metric sys­ tem have kitchen scales to weigh different ingredients.The chart below will give you a good starting point for basic conversions to the metric system. MASS (weight)

LENGTH

1 ounce (oz.) 8 ounces 1 pound (lb.) or 16 ounces 2.2 pounds

ø inch (in.) ¥ inch 1 inch

= 28.0 grams (g) = 227.0 grams = 0.45 kilograms (kg) = 1.0 kilogram

LIQUID VOLUME 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

teaspoon (tsp.) tablespoon (tbsp.) fluid ounce (oz.) cup (c.) pint (pt.) quart (qt.) gallon (gal.)

= = = = = = =

5.0 milliliters (ml) 15.0 milliliters 30.0 milliliters 240 milliliters 480 milliliters 0.95 liters (l) 3.80 liters

= 0.6 centimeters (cm) = 1.25 centimeters = 2.5 centimeters

TEMPERATURE 212°F 225°F 250°F 275°F 300°F 325°F 350°F 375°F 400°F

= = = = = = = = =

100°C (boiling point of water) 110°C 120°C 135°C 150°C 160°C 180°C 190°C 200°C

(To convert temperature in Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32 and multiply by .56)

PAN SIZES 8-inch cake pan 9-inch cake pan 11 x 7-inch baking pan 13 x 9-inch baking pan 9 x 5-inch loaf pan 2-quart casserole

= = = = = =

20 x 4-centimeter cake pan 23 x 3.5-centimeter cake pan 28 x 18-centimeter baking pan 32.5 x 23-centimeter baking pan 23 x 13-centimeter loaf pan 2-liter casserole

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An Austrian Table

An Austrian cookbook published in 1846 stressed the importance of cleanliness in the kitchen and at the dining table, and this tradition is still observed. In many Austrian homes, tablecloths are changed daily, if not for each meal. Good cloths are hand-embroidered, and children often learn the art of embroidery. The edelweiss, a white flower that grows high in the Alps, and the enzian, another Alpine plant with yel­ low or blue flowers, are popular embroidery designs. Hand-painted wooden egg holders are a feature of many Austrian breakfast tables. They are designed so that when the first boiled egg has been eaten, the holder is turned over to reveal a second egg. Festive occasions often call for a centerpiece, possibly of fruits and nuts accented with peacock feathers—a reminder of when peacocks strutted through the splendid gardens of noble mansions. For less formal evening meals, wild cornflowers and poppies might decorate the table.The flowers are usually arranged in low vases to encourage cross-table conversation. Since evening meals often consist of openfaced sandwiches, wooden platters are often substituted for individ­ ual dinner plates at each setting. Hard rolls—very popular in Austria—are served in colored baskets, and butter and homemade spreads are served in ceramic bowls.

Austrians and tourists alike enjoy the mountain view from outdoor cafés in Salzburg.

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An Austrian Menu Below are two simplified menu plans for an Austrian dinner. One has meat as a main course, and one is vegetarian. Shopping lists of the necessary ingredients to prepare these meals are provided.

SHOPPING LIST:

Canned/Bottled/Boxed

DINNER #1

Produce

Breaded veal

1 bunch parsley 2 lemons 3 large white potatoes 1 white onion 1 head of Bibb lettuce 1 bunch fresh spinach 1 green onion

2 chicken bouillon cubes 1 small jar sour pickles apple cider vinegar vegetable oil

Cooked potato salad Mixed green salad Holiday fruit bread

Dairy/Egg/Meat 2 lb. leg of veal, cut into ø-inch thick slices 3 eggs 3 slices of bacon 1 qt. buttermilk

* You can use walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts, or another kind of nut.

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Miscellaneous salt pepper flour bread crumbs spicy brown mustard white sugar brown sugar chopped nuts* baking powder 1 c. prunes baking soda 1 c. dates or figs 1 c. raisins

SHOPPING LIST:

Canned/Bottled/Boxed

DINNER #2

Produce

Egg custard soup

1 bunch parsley 4 medium baking potatoes 2 large cucumbers 1 white onion 1 bunch chives 1 lemon

4 vegetable bouillon cubes vanilla extract vegetable oil

Potato noodles Cucumber salad Salzburger sweet soufflé

Dairy/Egg/Meat 1 qt. skim milk 1 dozen eggs unsalted butter 16-oz. container sour cream or plain yogurt

Miscellaneous salt nutmeg white pepper flour white sugar 3 tbsp. farina

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Breakfast/Frühstück

For breakfast on workdays, most Austrians eat various types of rolls or coffee cakes, such as Buchteln (jelly rolls), Schnecken (snail-shaped rolls), Striezel (braided dough), or Mozart Zopf (dough that is braided in five strands, the way the famous composer wore his hair). Many Austrians stop work to eat a second breakfast at about 10:00 A.M. This meal, called Pause, means “in between.” It consists of at least two Wienerlen, the long, thin Vienna sausage, served with mustard on a hard roll. On weekends breakfast usually includes fresh fruit, cere­ als, hard rolls, soft-boiled eggs, dark bread with meats, such as Leberwurst (liver sausage), and cheeses. In Austria the dough used to make coffee cakes is called Germteig. It is a homemade yeast dough, but you can buy something similar in most grocery stores. A one-pound package of frozen dinner roll dough can be substituted. Before starting the breakfast recipes in this chapter, thaw the amount of dough needed for three hours.

The spicy aroma of fresh-baked cinnamon and almond snails delights the senses

(recipe on pages 32 and 33).

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Jelly Rolls/ Buchteln Traditionally, these rolls are filled with plum jelly or jam, but raspberry, strawberry, or blackberry jam can also be used.

16 pieces of frozen dinner roll dough, thawed for 3 hours 1 c. plum jelly 4 tbsp. butter, melted* powdered sugar

1. Place pieces of dough on a floured breadboard and cover with a towel (not terry cloth). Place in a warm spot (about 180ºF) until dough has doubled in size (about 2¥ hours). 2. Preheat oven to 350ºF. 3. Grease a 10-inch springform pan and set aside. 4. On a lightly floured surface, roll each piece of dough into a 4-inch square. 5. Place 1 tbsp. of jelly or jam in the center of each square, moisten the edges with water, and pull up the corners, pinching together with fingers. Then pull up the sides and pinch seams shut. 6. Place rolls in springform pan, starting at the center and working around in circles. Brush generously with melted butter.

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7. Cover with a towel (not terry cloth) and let rise for 15 to 20 minutes. 8. Remove towel and bake for 30 minutes, or until rolls are lightly browned. 9. Remove from oven, unclasp springform, and allow rolls to cool for 5 minutes. 10. Place rolls on a wire rack and sprinkle with powdered sugar. 11. When semi-cool, pull rolls apart and serve. Waiting time (for dough to thaw): 3 hours Additional waiting time (for dough to rise): 2æ hours Preparation time: 1¥ hours Baking time: 30 minutes Makes 16 rolls

*To reduce the fat content of this dish, you can brush the rolls lightly with milk or with lightly beaten egg whites instead of with butter.

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Cinnamon and Almond Snails/

Zimt und Mandelschnecken

¥ c. brown sugar

1. Place pieces of dough on a floured breadboard, cover with a towel (not terry cloth), and place in a warm spot (about 180°F) until dough has doubled in size (about 2¥ hours).

1 tbsp. cinnamon

2. Preheat oven to 350°F.

6 pieces of frozen dinner roll dough, thawed for 3 hours ø c. almonds 7 tbsp. butter, melted

3. Chop almonds into small pieces and brown in 1 tbsp. butter. 4. Mix together the sugar, browned almonds, and cinnamon. Set aside. 5. Generously grease a 6-well muffin pan. 6. On a floured surface, roll each piece of dough into a 4
6-inch rectangle. 7. Using 4 tbsp. of the melted butter, brush just one side of each rectangle of dough with a little butter. Then sprinkle each piece with some of the sugar-almondcinnamon mixture.*

32

8. With your fingertips, roll the dough rectangles lengthwise to form logs 6 inches long. Pinch ends together, then form logs into crescent shapes and place in wells of muffin pan. 9. Brush remaining melted butter on each roll.** 10. Cover with a towel (not terry cloth) and let rise for 15 to 20 minutes. 11. Remove towel and bake for 20 minutes, or until lightly browned. 12. Remove from oven and allow to cool in the pan for 5 minutes.

*To reduce the fat content of this dessert, use slightly less butter at this stage. (Please note that the buns will not brown as well.) **To reduce the fat content of this dish, you can brush the rolls lightly with milk or with lightly beaten egg whites instead of with butter.

13. Remove each snail from pan and place on cooling rack, glazed side up. Serve while warm. Waiting time (for dough to thaw): 3 hours Additional waiting time (for dough to rise): 2æ hours Preparation time: 40 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes Makes 6 buns

33

Dinner/Mittagessen Austrians have traditionally eaten dinner, the biggest meal of the day, at noon. But because many Austrians work outside the home, dinner is often served in the evening during the week. On weekends, how­ ever, dinner is usually served at the traditional time. A typical menu would start with a clear broth, followed by an entrée of meat or fish served with dumplings, noodles or potatoes, fresh vegetables, and a salad. After a heavy meal, Austrians seldom serve rich desserts. Instead, light, fluffy baked delicacies called Mehlspeisen are served.

For a tasty, satisfying chicken entrée, try the baked paprika chicken recipe on page 37.

35

Egg Custard Soup/ Eierstich Suppe This delicious soup is a nice way to begin a festive dinner.

2 eggs

1. Preheat oven to 350°F.

4 tbsp. milk*

2. Combine eggs, milk, salt, nutmeg, and parsley, beating well.

ø tsp. salt Pinch of nutmeg 1 tbsp. parsley, washed and finely chopped 6 c. water 4 beef bouillon cubes**

3. Grease two small ovenproof cups or bowls with butter, and pour half of egg mixture into each. 4. Place cups in a shallow pan half filled with water and bake for 25 minutes. Turn off heat, cover cups with foil, and leave in oven for another 15 minutes, until a knife inserted in middle of the custard comes out clean. Remove from oven and cool. 5. Turn out custard and slice into long, thin strips. 6. Bring 6 c. water to a boil, drop in bouillon cubes, and continue to boil.

*To reduce the fat content of this dish, use skim milk. **To make this a vegetarian soup, use vegetable bouillon cubes.

36

7. Add custard strips to boiling broth. Turn off heat and cover for 5 minutes. 8. Pour into soup dishes and serve. Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking/baking time: 50 minutes Serves 4

Paprika Chicken/ Paprika Hendl 12 pieces skinless chicken, washed in cold water and patted dry with paper towels salt and pepper, to taste paprika, to taste 8 tbsp. butter or margarine, melted 2 c. flour (place in plastic bag) 1 lemon, halved 2 c. hot water 2 chicken bouillon cubes 1 c. sour cream*

Chicken:

1. Lightly sprinkle chicken with salt, pepper, and paprika. 2. Pour melted butter into shallow bowl. Dip chicken pieces in butter, coating well. Put 2 pieces of chicken at a time in a plastic bag with flour. Close the bag, and shake it gently until chicken is coated with flour. 3. Place chicken in greased baking pan and sprinkle with more paprika, salt, and pepper. Squeeze juice from half a lemon over chicken, then bake at 400°F for 1 hour. 4. Turn oven off. Put chicken pieces on ovenproof serving platter and return to oven to keep warm. Gravy:

1. Pour drippings from baking pan into a saucepan and heat. Sprinkle 2 tbsp. flour from bag over drippings and stir until brown. *To reduce the fat content of this dish, substitute some or all of the sour cream with low-fat yogurt.

2. Add hot water, bouillon cubes, a pinch of salt, pepper, paprika, sour cream, and juice from other lemon half. Stir until ingredients are blended. Serve with chicken. Preparation/cooking/baking time: 2 hours Serves 4 to 6

37

Breaded Veal/ Wiener Schnitzel Except in Vienna, where boiled beef is popular,Wiener schnitzel is the favorite meat in Austria. The word schnitzel simply means “a sliver,” and thrifty cooks make their schnitzels from thin slices of pork or beef.True Wiener schnitzel, however, is a veal scallop.

2 lb. leg of veal, cut into ø-inch thick slices (ask the butcher to do this) salt and pepper ¥ c. flour 3 eggs, well beaten with 3 tsp. oil* 2 c. fine bread crumbs æ c. vegetable oil Garnish: 2 lemons, each cut into 4 sections fresh parsley sprigs baby tomatoes

1. Pound veal slices with a meat hammer until very thin (about ∏ inch thick), then sprinkle with salt and pepper. 2. Place flour into a shallow dish and dip veal slices into flour. Shake off excess flour. Dip veal into egg mixture, then roll in bread crumbs, coating well, and set aside. 3. Heat ø c. oil in a large skillet, then add as many veal slices as will fit. 4. Cook over medium heat 4 to 5 minutes on each side, or until browned. Remove veal from pan and place on paper towels to remove excess oil. 5. Repeat, adding more oil as necessary, until all veal slices are browned.

* You can use an egg substitute to reduce the amount of cholesterol.

6. Serve on a preheated platter garnished with lemon wedges, parsley, and baby tomatoes. After serving, squeeze lemon over schnitzel. Preparation time: 45 minutes Cooking time: 30 minutes Serves 6 to 8

38

Trout Vienna Style/ Bachforellen nach Wiener Art Although Austria has no seacoast, it has many lakes and streams, so freshwater fish are plentiful.Trout is the favorite.This recipe can be served with cooked potato salad (recipe on page 43).

4 fresh trout fillets, washed, cleaned, and patted dry with paper towels salt and pepper to taste 1 c. flour 10 tbsp. butter* 6 oz. slivered almonds 2 lemons

1. Lightly sprinkle the trout with salt and pepper. 2. Spread flour on sheet of waxed paper and roll the trout in it, coating well. Shake off excess flour. 3. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt 6 tbsp. butter. 4. Place trout in skillet and cook 5 to 7 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. 5. While trout is cooking, melt remaining butter in a small skillet. Add almonds, stirring until they turn golden brown. 6. Place trout on preheated platter, and pour butter and almond mixture over them. 7. Slice lemons into quarters and serve with each fillet. Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Serves 4

* To reduce the fat content of this dish, fry the trout in olive oil.

41

Potato Noodles/ Schupfnudeln

4 medium baking potatoes, washed and not peeled 1 c. flour 1 egg 3 tbsp. farina ¥ tsp. salt 2 qt. water 4 tbsp. butter (or canola oil for lower fat content) 2 tbsp. parsley, chopped

1. Put potatoes in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 20 minutes. 2. Drain potatoes, refrigerate until cold, then peel. 3. Force cold, peeled potatoes through potato ricer or fine sieve into a bowl. 4. Add flour, egg, farina, and salt. Stir together, then knead with wellfloured hands into a hard dough, adding more flour if needed. 5. Turn dough onto a floured surface and shape into a log about 2 inches in diameter. Then cut into ø-inch slices. 6. Using floured hands, roll each piece between fingers, leaving the middle thick and tapering the ends. 7. Bring 2 qt. of water to a boil in a large pot. Add noodles. Simmer for 7 minutes, or until noodles rise to surface. Then use a slotted spoon to put the noodles into a bowl. 8. Melt butter in a frying pan and sauté noodles until well browned and crisp. Garnish with parsley. Preparation time: 1¥ hours Cooking time: 30 minutes Serves 4

42

Cooked Potato Salad/ Gekochter Erdapfelsalat 3 large potatoes, washed and peeled 3 slices bacon, chopped* ø c. white onion, peeled and chopped 2 tbsp. flour 2 chicken bouillon cubes dissolved in 1ø c. hot water ¥ tsp. salt ø tsp. pepper 2 tbsp. sour pickles, chopped 1 tbsp. spicy brown mustard 1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar pinch of sugar 1 tbsp. parsley, chopped

1. Place potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat, cover, and cook over medium heat for 15 minutes. 2. Drain potatoes in colander and allow to cool. 3. Wash and dry pan. Sauté bacon and onion until onion is golden brown. 4. Add flour and stir until lightly browned. 5. Add bouillon, a little at a time, stirring constantly with a wire whisk to make a thick sauce. 6. Add remaining ingredients, except parsley and potatoes, and turn heat to low. 7. Cut potatoes into ø-inch slices and add to sauce. 8. Cover pan and simmer for 20 minutes until potatoes are tender. 9. Sprinkle with parsley and serve. Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 40 minutes Serves 4 to 6

*For a meatless salad, omit the bacon. For extra flavor, try substituting flavored tofu for the bacon.

43

Broccoli Salad with Bacon/

Brokkolisalat mit Speck 5 stalks broccoli, tender top parts only, washed and cut into small stems 1 small red onion, peeled and sliced into rings 2 slices bacon, chopped and fried* 2 tbsp. apple cider vinegar ¥ tsp. salt

1. Using a steaming basket, steam broccoli until barely tender, about 5 minutes. (You can also microwave broccoli with 1 tbsp. water for 4 minutes.) 2. Remove broccoli from basket or microwave, cool, and place in a salad bowl. 3. Add remaining ingredients except cheese, then toss.

ø tsp. pepper

4. Sprinkle with cheese prior to serving.

dash of sugar 2 tbsp. semi-hard white cheese, such as Swiss, grated

Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Serves 4

*Omit the bacon to make this a vegetarian (and lower fat) dish. To replace the flavor of the bacon, try substituting the bacon with a flavored tofu.

45

Cucumber Salad/ Gurkensalat

2 large cucumbers, peeled and thinly sliced 1 tsp. salt ¥ white onion, peeled and minced ø tsp. white pepper 2 tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1 tbsp. vegetable oil 1 tbsp. chives, chopped 2 tbsp. sour cream*

1. Place cucumber into a bowl, add salt, mix, then let stand for 20 minutes. 2. Drain liquid from cucumbers, squeezing out excess, and return to bowl. 3. Add remaining ingredients, toss well, and keep cool until ready to serve. Preparation time: 30 minutes Serves 4 to 6

Mixed Green Salad/ Gemischter grüner Salat

1 small head of Bibb lettuce, washed and torn into bite-sized pieces 2 c. fresh spinach, washed and torn into bite-sized pieces 1 green onion, washed and chopped 2 slices of bacon, chopped and fried** ø tsp. salt ∏ tsp. pepper 2 tbsp. apple cider vinegar (or lemon juice for a tangier flavor)

1. Place lettuce and spinach in a large bowl. Add remaining ingredients, toss, and serve. Preparation time: 20 minutes Serves 6

*Use plain, nonfat yogurt in place of the sour cream for a lighter salad. **Omit the bacon to make this a vegetarian dish or substitute smoked turkey meat for the bacon for a low-fat salad.

dash of sugar Cucumber salad is a cool complement to any meal.

46

Desserts & Pastries/ Mehlspeisen und Gebäck The Turks attacked Vienna twice in its history, but they never con­ quered it. However, their beverage—coffee—did successfully con­ quer the Austrians. Konditoreien (shops selling both baked goods and coffee) soon sprang up everywhere, and they are still an important part of social life in Austria. About 3:30 P.M., Austrians stop work to enjoy Kaffeetafel, afternoon coffee, and the delicious desserts for which Austria is renowned. After meals Austrians serve light desserts (Mehlspeisen), such as sweet soufflés, rather than rich pastries.

Sacher cake, Austria’s famous chocolate cake with chocolate icing, is a dessert few can resist. (See recipe on pages 54 and 55.)

49

Linzer Cake/ Linzer Torte 6 tbsp. melted butter plus 2 tbsp. butter for greasing pan

1. Mix together the butter, sugar, and egg until creamy.

µ c. sugar plus 1 tbsp. for pan

1 tsp. lemon juice

2. Add almonds, lemon juice, and milk. Sift in flour and baking powder a little at a time, stirring continuously to make a dough, then cool in refrigerator for 1 hour.

1 tbsp. milk

3. Preheat oven to 325°F.

2 c. flour

4. Generously grease a 9-inch springform pan with 2 tbsp. butter and sprinkle with 1 tbsp. sugar.

1 egg 1 c. almonds, finely chopped

1 tsp. baking powder 1 c. red currant or raspberry jam

1 egg yolk, slightly beaten

ø c. powdered sugar

5. Divide dough into thirds. Place twothirds into springform pan. Spread dough evenly on bottom and sides of pan. Spread jam over dough. 6. Divide the last third of dough into 8 pieces. Roll pieces into strips. Place about 1 inch apart across surface of cake in a crisscross pattern. 7. Use a pastry brush to spread beaten egg yolk on top of dough only. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, until golden brown. 8. Remove from oven, release sides of springform pan, and cool completely. Sprinkle lightly with powdered sugar. Preparation time: 1 hour Waiting time (to chill dough): 1 hour Baking time: 50 minutes to 1 hour Serves 12

50

51

Salzburger Sweet Soufflé/ Salzburger Nockerln This soufflé, the airiest of desserts, is a perfect ending for a festive dinner.

4 eggs, separated*

1. Preheat oven to 350°F.

∏ tsp. vanilla extract

2. In a bowl, stir together egg yolks, vanilla, and grated lemon peel. Then sift flour over mixture and stir gently.

¥ tsp. lemon peel, grated** 2 tbsp. flour 2 tbsp. white sugar

3. In another bowl, beat egg whites with 1 tbsp. sugar until stiff peaks form. 4. Using a rubber spatula, fold egg whites into egg yolk mixture. 5. Generously butter a deep 7
11inch rectangular or oval baking dish and place four equal parts of the mixture side by side in the dish. Sprinkle lightly with remaining sugar, then bake on middle rack of oven for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the soufflé is lightly browned on the outside but still soft inside. Remove from oven and serve immediately. Preparation time: 30 minutes Baking time: 15 minutes Serves 4

*To separate an egg, crack it cleanly on the edge of a non-plastic bowl. Holding the two halves of the eggshell over the bowl, gently pour the egg yolk back and forth between the two halves, letting the egg white drip into the bowl and being careful not to break the yolk. When most of the egg white has been separated, place the yolk in another bowl. **Use a cheese grater or lemon zester to remove the yellow peel from the lemon.

53

Sacher Cake/ Sacher Torte Viennese Prince Klemens von Metternich is partially responsible for the Sachertorte, one of Austria’s most famous iced cakes. Created in 1832 by master baker Franz Sacher to please the prince, the cake soon gained popularity. Later, descendants of the master baker built and operated the Sacher Hotel and made this delicious cake their specialty.When a popular Viennese pastry shop copied the recipe, the Sachers took them to court.A historic decision resulted from the famous trial. The Sachers retained their rights under the name Sachertorte, while others would have to call their copies Sacher torte.This delicious iced cake is often served with whipped cream.

1 c. flour

1. Prepare a 9-inch springform pan by cutting waxed paper the exact size of the base of the pan. (Measure the circle for the base by putting the pan on top of the waxed paper and drawing a circle around it.) Then cut a 29
2ø-inch strip for the sides. Insert waxed paper in pan.

1 tbsp. baking powder

2. Preheat oven to 325°F.

1 tbsp. powdered sugar

3. In a double boiler, heat the chocolate until melted.

Cake: 5∂ oz. bitttersweet chocolate 1 stick plus 3 tbsp. butter, melted ¥ c. sugar 6 eggs, separated

12 oz. apricot jam at room temperature

4. In a large bowl, beat butter and sugar. Add melted chocolate, then add egg yolks, one at a time, beating continuously until creamy. 5. In another bowl, sift flour and baking powder together. 6. In a third bowl, using clean beaters, beat egg whites and powdered sugar until stiff peaks form.

54

7. Add egg whites to chocolate

mixture. Sift flour mixture onto

egg whites, a little at a time. Fold

egg whites and flour carefully into

chocolate mixture.

8. Pour into prepared pan, spreading

batter evenly. Bake for about 50

minutes. (Test for doneness by

inserting a toothpick into cake. If

the toothpick comes out clean, the

cake is done.)

9. Remove cake from oven, remove

springform rim, carefully peel off

side paper, and allow cake to cool

slightly.

10. Turn onto a cake plate and remove base of pan and waxed paper. Slice cake horizontally, spread bottom layer with jam, and replace top layer.

Chocolate Icing: 7 oz. bittersweet chocolate 1 c. powdered sugar 2 tbsp. butter a few drops fresh lemon juice 8 to 10 tbsp. hot water

1. Melt chocolate in double boiler. 2. Add powdered sugar, butter,

lemon juice, and hot water—one

tbsp. at a time—to get right

consistency for spreading on a

cake. While icing is still hot,

spread over top and sides of cake,

and allow icing to cool completely.

Preparation time: 2 hours Baking/cooking time: 1 hour Serves 12

55

Supper/Abendessen When dinner is eaten at noon, the evening meal, or supper, is usually light and simple. It might consist of open-faced sandwiches (Belegte Brote) or a variety platter (Bunte Platte) of cold cuts, cheeses, and pickled fish. Light meals are served during warmer weather. On cold days, soups and hearty one-pot meals are popular.

Surround colorful tomato baskets with an assortment of salami cones and stuffed eggs to make an attractive supper platter. (See recipes on pages 60 and 61.)

57

Pork Stew/ Styrisches Schweineres This one-pot meal originated in the province of Styria, in the southeast. Since most Styrians work on farms or in vineyards, they like to eat heartily, and this stew satisfies their appetites.

2 tbsp. butter or margarine 1 large onion, peeled and chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 2 stalks celery, washed and chopped 4 large pork ribs, about 2 lb. dash salt, pepper, and paprika 2¥ tbsp. flour 3 c. hot water 1 bay leaf 1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar 2 carrots, washed and cut into pieces 2 potatoes, peeled and cut into pieces 1 small head white cabbage, washed and chopped ø c. sour cream mixed with 1 tbsp. milk

58

1. Heat the butter in a large pot and sauté onion, garlic, and celery until they are golden brown. 2. Put ribs in pot, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and paprika, and brown slightly on each side, pushing onions to side of pot. 3. Sprinkle mixture with flour and stir. Add water, bay leaf, and vinegar. 4. Cover pot, turn heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour. 5. Add carrots, potatoes, and cabbage and continue to simmer for 30 minutes. 6. Remove bay leaf, stir in sour cream/milk mixture and more water if needed. Turn off heat, let mixture set for 5 minutes to blend flavors, then serve. Preparation time: 45 minutes Cooking time: 1¥ hours Serves 4

Colorful Variety Platter/ Bunte Platte Arrange the tomato baskets in the center of a large wooden or china platter and surround them with the stuffed eggs and salami cones.The Bunte Platte may be garnished with olives, pickles, raw carrots, radishes, cauliflower, asparagus, and tomatoes.

Tomato Baskets/ Paradeiser Körbchen 4 stalks asparagus, cooked 8 tbsp. whipping cream, whipped 2 tbsp. Parmesan cheese, grated dash salt and pepper 4 large tomatoes, washed, halved, pulp removed* paprika, to taste

1. Chop 2 stalks cooked asparagus into small bits and mix in a bowl with whipped cream, cheese, salt, and pepper. 2. Fill tomato halves with equal amounts of asparagus mixture. 3. Cut remaining asparagus in halves, then cut each half into two strips and crisscross them on tomatoes. 4. Sprinkle lightly with paprika.

Salami Cones/ Salami Tütchen 12 slices hard salami** 4 tbsp. whipping cream, whipped 1 tsp. bottled horseradish

1. Make a cut from the center of each salami slice to the edge, then shape each piece into a cone. 2. Mix whipped cream and horseradish in a bowl, and fill cones with equal amounts of mixture.

*To pulp a tomato, cut the tomato in half and use a paring knife to cut out the pulp. **Use salami-style tofu to make this vegetarian or use turkey salami for a low-fat option.

60

Herb-Stuffed Eggs/ Kräuter Eier 4 eggs, hard-boiled, shelled, and cut

in half vertically

1. Scoop out egg yolks and mash in small bowl.

2 tbsp. mayonnaise or plain nonfat

yogurt

2. Mix in remaining ingredients, then fill egg white halves with equal amounts of mixture.

¥ tsp. salt

ø tsp. pepper

1 tsp. Parmesan cheese

1 tsp. parsley, finely chopped

1 tbsp. whipping cream in liquid

form

Smoked Salmon-Stuffed Eggs/ Lachs Eier 4 eggs, hard-boiled, shelled, and halved vertically

1. Follow steps for herb-stuffed eggs

(above).

1¥ tbsp. smoked salmon, finely

minced

1 tbsp. whipping cream, whipped

¥ tsp. salt

ø tsp. pepper

1¥ tbsp. sour cream

Preparation time (entire Bunte Platte): 1æ hours Bunte Platte serves 4

61

Holiday & Festival Food

Gatherings with family and friends to enjoy long, sumptuous meals are an essential part of celebrating holidays and festivals in Austria. Austrian cooks typically prepare meals that are unique to the holi­ day. Often Austrians prepare dishes commonly eaten throughout the year. By altering them slightly, they turn them into holiday dishes. During Christmastime, for example, Austrians add fruits such as apples to many dishes. They may add apples to salads or to meats such as goose or ham. Austrian cooks often add dried fruits and nuts to breads. To add a lively touch to bread during Easter, Austrians add fruit to dough and braid the bread. During the New Year’s holiday, people shape pastries into pig faces to give to family and friends. The recipes in this section are typical dishes prepared for various Austrian holidays and festivals. Don’t let this stop you from making these dishes at any time of the year. Making one of these dishes will surely put you in a celebratory mood. Guten Appetite!

Sweeten the season as Austrians do. Chopped nuts, prunes, and dates or figs give this

holiday fruit bread (recipe on page 66) its delightful texture.

63

Bacon Bread/ Speckkuchen In parts of Austria, this bread is served during New Year’s festivities. It makes a delicious snack or a light lunch dish served with a green salad.

¥ tbsp. sugar ¥ c. warm water* 1ø oz. package active dry yeast 3æ c. bread flour æ c. milk ¥ stick unsalted butter 2 large eggs 1 tsp. salt æ lb. sliced bacon, diced

*Water should be warm to the touch.

64

1. Mix sugar and water, and sprinkle the yeast over the top. Let it rise in a warm place until it bubbles, about 10 minutes. 2. Pour half the flour into a large bowl, making a well in the center. 3. Heat the milk and butter to just before boiling. Pour the yeast and milk mixture into the center of the flour. Gradually beat flour into the mixture to make a thick batter. 4. Lightly beat the eggs with the salt and add to the batter. Gradually pour in the remaining flour. Use just enough flour to prevent the dough from being sticky. 5. Remove to a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 minutes by hand or with an electric kneader until smooth and shiny. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Place in a heavy plastic bag, close tightly, and refrigerate. 6. After an hour, unwrap the dough and punch it down with your fist. Rewrap it well and return it to the plastic bag, closing the bag tightly. Leave overnight.

7. The next day, butter and lightly flour two baking sheets. Unwrap the dough, knead it briefly, and divide into two parts. With a rolling pin, roll out one piece of dough into a 12-inch circle. 8. Place on the baking sheet. Evenly press half of the pieces of the diced bacon into the dough. Press each piece well into the dough. Repeat with the other piece of dough. Leave in a warm place, covered with a damp cloth for 20 minutes. In the meantime, preheat oven to 400°F. 9. Bake in the middle of the oven for 20 to 30 minutes, or until golden. Brush the entire surface with the fat that has accumulated around the bacon. Allow bread to cool on a wire rack. The loaf will shrink to approximately 10 inches across. Preparation time: 1ø hours

Waiting time: 1 hour and overnight (about 8 hours)

Baking time: 30 minutes

Makes 2 loaves

65

Holiday Fruit Bread/ Kletzenbrot During holidays in Austria, cookies, cakes, sweet breads, and other pastries are seen and smelled in virtually every home and pastry shop.This fruit bread can be served as part of a festive meal or as a snack.

3 c. flour µ c. brown sugar 3 tsp. baking powder

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Blend flour, brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.

2 tsp. baking soda

2. Add buttermilk slowly, stirring to form a smooth dough.

ø tsp. salt

3. Stir in nuts and fruits.

2 c. buttermilk

4. Grease and flour a 10-inch bread pan and spoon batter into the pan. Bake for 45 minutes, remove from oven and let cool.

1 c. chopped nuts* 1 c. chopped prunes 1 c. diced dates or figs

Preparation time: 30 minutes Baking time: 45 minutes Makes 1 loaf

1 c. raisins

* You can use walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts, or another kind of nut.

66

Fried Carp/ Gebackener Karpfen Fried carp is the traditional main dish at an Austrian Christmas Eve dinner.

3- to 3¥-lb. carp fillet

1. Wash fish and cut into 4 slices.

¥ tsp. salt

2. Sprinkle with salt and let stand for

1 hour in the refrigerator.

¥ c. flour

2 eggs, beaten ¥ c. bread crumbs 7 tbsp. canola oil 1 lemon, sliced

3. Put flour, beaten eggs, and bread

crumbs into 3 separate shallow

bowls or pans.

4. Roll each slice of fish in flour, then

eggs, then bread crumbs.

5. Heat oil in frying pan. Fry slices on one side until golden brown (about 5 minutes). Then flip the slices and fry on other side until golden brown (about 5 minutes). 6. Garnish with lemon slices and serve. Preparation time: 15 minutes Waiting time (for fish to marinate in salt): 1 hour Cooking time: 20 minutes Serves 4

67

Red Cabbage with Apples/ Rotkraut mit Äpfeln Red cabbage is a typical Austrian side dish. During holidays, such as Christmas, people add apples to sweeten this already tasty dish. Red cabbage makes a good accompaniment to a Christmas Day holiday meal of roast goose, potato dumplings, and desserts such as Sacher torte and Christmas cookies.

1 head red cabbage, finely chopped 1 small peeled onion, cut into quarters* 4 to 6 whole cloves 1 large green apple, cut into quarters 2 tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1¥ tbsp. sugar 2 tbsp. vegetable oil 1¥ tbsp. flour

1. Combine cabbage, onion, cloves, apple, vinegar, æ tbsp. sugar, and oil in a large pot. 2. Add enough water to cover the bottom of the pot. 3. Bring to a boil and then simmer until tender, or 1 to 1¥ hours. Add boiling water if needed during cooking to maintain enough water at the bottom of the pan to keep the food from sticking. 4. Sprinkle flour and the rest of sugar over the mixture before serving. Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 1¥ hours Serves 6

*For more flavor, cook the onion in oil over medium-low heat before adding the other ingredients.

68

Index

Alps, 9 apple cider vinegar, 20, 26, 43, 45, 46, 58, 68 Austria, 7–15; holidays and festivals, 10–15; history, 7–8; land, 8–9; map, 8; population, 8–9; provinces, 9; regional cooking, 9–10 Austrian cuisine: breakfast recipes, 28–33; desserts and pastries, 48–55; dinner recipes, 34–47; hol­ iday and festival food, 62–69; sup­ per recipes, 56–61 Austrian dining table, 25 Austrian menu, 26–27 Babenberg family, 7 Bachforellen nach Wiener Art, 40, 41 bacon, 10, 26, 43, 45, 46, 64–65 bacon bread, 64–65 breaded veal, 26, 38 breakfast recipes, 28–33 broccoli salad with bacon, 16–17, 44, 45 Brokkolisalat mit Speck, 45 Buchteln, 29, 30–31 Bunte Platte, 60 Carnival, 14 cheese, 10, 22, 29, 45, 57, 60 chicken, 22, 34, 35, 37 Christmas, 11, 12, 13, 63, 68 Christmas Eve, 13 70

cinnamon, 7, 21, 32 cinnamon and almond snails, 28, 29, 32–33 colorful variety platter, 60 cooked potato salad, 26, 43 cooking safety, 18 cooking terms, 19–20 cooking utensils, 19 cottage cheese, 10 Crusaders, 7 cucumber salad, 27, 46, 47 desserts and pastries, 9, 48–55 dinner recipes, 35–47 Easter, 14 egg custard soup, 27, 36 eggs, 13, 14, 22, 25, 26, 27, 29, 36, 38, 42, 50, 53, 54–55, 61, 64, 67 Eierstich Suppe, 36 Epiphany, 13 festivals, 10–15 fish, 10, 13, 14, 35, 41, 57, 67 fried carp, 67 Gebackener Karpfen, 67 Gekochter Erdapfelsalat, 43 Gemischter grüner Salat, 46 Gurkensalat, 46 Habsburg family, 7, 8 healthy cooking, 22

herb-stuffed eggs, 57, 60, 61 holiday and festival food, 62–69 holiday fruit bread, 26, 62, 63, 66 holidays, 10–15 ingredients, special, 20, 21 jelly rolls, 30–31 Kletzenbrot, 66 Kräuter Eier, 61 Lachs Eier, 61 Lebkuchen, 11, 12 Linzer cake, 50 Linzer Torte, 50 low-fat cooking tips, 22 metric conversions, 23 mixed green salad, 26, 46 New Year celebrations, 13 noodles, 10, 27, 35, 42 nutmeg, 7, 21, 27, 36 paprika chicken, 34, 35, 37 Paprika Hendl, 37 Paradeiser Körbchen, 60 pastries, 9, 11, 13, 14, 49, 66 pork, 13, 38, 58 pork stew, 58–59 potato noodles, 27, 42

red cabbage with apples, 68–69 Rotkraut mit Äpfeln, 68–69 Sacher cake, 48, 49, 54–55 Sacher torte, 14, 54–55, 68 safety rules, 18 salami cones, 57, 60 Salami Tütchen, 60 Salzburg, 9, 10, 14 Salzburger sweet soufflé, 27, 52–53 Salzburger Nockerln, 52–53 Schupfnudeln, 42 smoked salmon-stuffed eggs, 57, 60, 61 Speckkuchen, 64–65 Styrisches Schweineres, 10, 58–59 sugar, 7, 10, 13, 26, 27, 31, 32, 43, 45, 46, 50, 53, 54–55, 64, 66, 68 supper recipes, 56–61 tomato baskets, 56, 57, 60 trout Vienna style, 16–17, 40, 41 utensils, 17, 19 variety platter, colorful, 60 veal, 26, 38 Vienna, 7, 9, 10, 13, 14 Wiener schnitzel, 9, 13, 38–39 wine-making festival, 15 Zimt und Mandelschnecken, 32–33

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About the Author Helga Hughes received her early culinary training at a private college in Forchheim, Bavaria. After moving to the United States, she wrote cooking articles for national newspapers and magazines, and she has written a vegetarian cookbook.This cookbook, however, is about her first love, Austrian cuisine. When not in the kitchen, Hughes follows her other writing interests—exercise and children—and promotes her books.

Photo Acknowledgments The photographs in this book are reproduced with the permission of: © Walter and Louiseann Pietrowicz/September 8th Stock, pp. 4 (both), 5 (both), 16, 28, 34, 40, 44, 48, 62, 69; © Robert L. & Diane Wolfe, pp. 6, 39, 47, 51, 52, 56, 59; © Austrian National Tourist Office, p. 11. Cover and spine photos: © Robert L. & Diane Wolfe, front cover (top) and back cover; © Walter and Louiseann Pietrowicz/September 8th Stock, front cover (bottom) and spine. The illustrations on pages 7, 17, 25, 29, 31, 33, 35, 36, 37, 38, 41, 42, 43, 45, 46, 49, 50, 53, 57, 60, 61, 65, 66, and 68 are by Tim Seeley.The map on page 8 is by Bill Hauser.

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