Brazil (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

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Author: Demetrio Carrasco | Nigel Hicks | Linda Whitman

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Eyewitness TRAVEL

BRAZIL

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

brazil

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

brazil

CONTENTS LONDON, NEW YORK, MELBOURNE, MUNICH AND DELHI www.dk.com

INTRODUCING BRAZIL

MANAGING EDITOR Aruna Ghose EDITORIAL MANAGER Ankita Awasthi DESIGN MANAGER Priyanka Thakur PROJECT EDITOR Alka Thakur PROJECT DESIGNER Mathew Kurien EDITORS Arundhti Bhanot, Nandita Jaishankar, Vandana Mohindra DESIGNERS Rajnish Kashyap, Baishakhee Sengupta CARTOGRAPHY MANAGER Uma Bhattacharya SENIOR CARTOGRAPHER Suresh Kumar SENIOR PICTURE RESEARCHER Taiyaba Khatoon PICTURE RESEARCHER Sumita Khatwani SENIOR DTP DESIGNER Vinod Harish CONTRIBUTORS

Alex Bellos, Shawn Blore, Dilwyn Jenkins, Oliver Marshall, Christopher Pickard, Alex Robinson, Neiva Augusta Silva CONSULTANT Alex Robinson PHOTOGRAPHERS Demetrio Carrasco, Nigel Hicks, Alex Robinson, Linda XX'liitman

Dazzling display of an extravagant costume at the Rio Carnaval

ILLUSTRATORS Surat Kumar Mantoo, Arun Pottirayil, Gautam Trivedi, Mark \X'amer

DISCOVERING BRAZIL 8

Reproduced in Singapore by Colourscan Printed and bound by L. Rex Printing Company Limited, China

PUTTING BRAZIL ON THE MAP 12

First American Edition, 2007 07 08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by Dorling Kindersley Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York 10014 Copyright © 2007 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company ALL RIGHTS RESERVED UNDER INTERNATIONAL AND PAN-AMERICAN COPYRIGHT CONVENTIONS. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED LN A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS, ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING OR OTHERWISE WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER.

A PORTRAIT OF BRAZIL 16 BRAZIL THROUGH THE YEAR 40 THE HISTORY OF BRAZIL 46

Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. A CATALOGING IN PUBLICATION RECORD IS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

ISSN:1552-1554 ISBN 978-0-7566-2820-8 Front cover main image: Cristo Redentor, Rio de Janeiro The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this hook is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R ORL.

Statue of Dom Pedro II, Museu Imperial, Petropolis

<] Vista of Sao Conrado with Sugar Loaf mountain in the background, Rio de Janeiro

BRAZIL AREA BY AREA SOUTHEAST BRAZIL 60 NORTHEAST BRAZIL 172 NORTHERN BRAZIL 256 CENTRAL WEST BRAZIL 290

Iconic Cristo Redentor on Morro do Corcovado overlooking Rio de Janeiro

TRAVELERS' NEEDS

SOUTHERN BRAZIL 324

TRAVEL INFORMATION

434

WHERE TO STAY 362 WHERE TO EAT 390 SHOPPING IN BRAZIL 414 ENTERTAINMENT IN BRAZIL 416

Lush Amazonian forest near the Rio Cristalino, northern Mato Grosso

Boating on Sao Paulo's beautiful coast near Ubatuba

SPECIALIZED HOLIDAYS & OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 418

GENERAL INDEX 444

SURVIVAL GUIDE

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 460

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 424

PHRASE BOOK 463

Basilica do Senhor Bom Jesus de Matosinhos in Congonhnas, Minas Gerais

INTRODUCING BRAZIL

DISCOVERING BRAZIL 811 PUTTING BRAZIL ON THE MAP 1215 A PORTRAIT OF BRAZIL 1639 BRAZIL THROUGH THE YEAR 4045 THE HISTORY OF BRAZIL 4659

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RIO DE JANEIRO CITY • Iconic Cristo Redentor & Sugar Loaf • Fabulous beaches • Sensual samba & Carnaval

$*.) $"#*-#**.) # .) /' ./!$1 4./* 3+'*- 1 -'**&$)" Sugar Loaf Cristo Redentor ./).*) *-*1*.0--*0) 4 '0.# Parque Nacional da Tijuca # $/4 )/ -$. '$) 2$/#(0. 0(.#$./*-$ 0$'$)".)/# 1./ Estádio Maracanã 0./.*0/#*!/# )/ -)/ - .)+- /# )$"#/ '$! #0. 4*)/# . - *+)+) () '*) # . 2$/# 3$/$)".#*++$)"- . $*.-)1' $.2*-'!(*0. !*-$/.- 1 '-4)$/. RIO DE JANEIRO & ESPÍRITO SANTO

$/. #$./*-$ $/$ . ) 1$-)/ !-*-5$'$) 0'/0- ) *-/# -) -5$'/# ). )+-$./$) (5*) !*- ./ ) /-*+$' "-..'). (& 0+ -5$'.2$'!-*)/$ -) -5$'. ) "' / $)/ -$*- /# )/-' ./ +-$ .$/. '!*)/# * -)$./)/$*)' +$/' -.8'$ ) /# 2$''$! -$# )/)' 2 /'). '*2 $. ) *1 -1$ 2 *! /# #$"#'$"#/. *! # - "$*)$)/# **& .0#.Ilha Grande 2#$#*!! -"** .)*-& '$)")$1$)" MINAS GERAIS • Southern colonial towns • Magnificent churches • Spectacular national parks

$). -$.$.*// 2$/# *'*)$'($)$)"/*2).2#*. *' ./- /.- '$) 2$/# .*( *!/# !$) ./-*,0 0$'$)".$)-5$'*./*! /# () . )$)!$1 Cristo Redentor rising through the 4. # *-' mist at twilight, Rio de Janeiro

-$/" $/ .*!Ouro Preto )Congonhas $).*0/# -) /# ($./# !*-( -$(+ -$' $).- !( !*-/# $- .0(( -- /- /Palácio Imperial / #0)/$)".0'+/0- .4 /# +- //4/*2)*!Petrópolis ' $%$)#* São # *./ João del Rei $.!-$)" 2$/#./0))$)" #./# (*./(")$!$ )/ # ..0#./#*. //# *!''$).#0-# . Diamantina $) '$1 '4- .*-//*2).*!Búzios ) Cabo Frio /# )*-/#$.2 ''+- . -1 # *'*)$'/*2)*! /*2) # )/$*)'+-&.*! Paraty '$ . Serra do Cipó ) ($!$) # .!!.#*- Serra da Canastra - )0( -*!'0.#$.'). - "**!*-/- &&$)"

• Enchanting Palácio Imperial • Beautiful beaches & islands • Rainforest hikes

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A cluster of colonial houses in Ouro Preto’s historic center, Minas Gerais

A painting in naive style by Calixto Sales, depicting a market scene in Maragojipe, Bahia

Rock spurs etched against a clouded sky in the Chapada Diamantina, Bahia

SÃO PAULO CITY • Dining & shopping in Jardins • Art at Pinacoteca & MASP • Niemeyer in Ibirapuera Park

# $/4.#$- ./0-)/. -.).#*+.( -$//' ./ /2*4.-$).!.#$*) ' $)$)").#*++$)" $./-$/'$ .'*. /*/# (0. 0(.)#$./*-$'0$' $)".$)/# )/ -2#$# $)'0 /# .// -/"'' -4 Pinacoteca do Estado '*. 4/# 0+.' 1 )$0'$./! /0- ./# .// "'' -4MASP 2#$#*././# !$) ./*'' /$*)*! 0-*+ ) +$)/$)".$)/# *0/# -)

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*! Santos)São Vicente - /$)!$) *'*)$'0$'$)".)/*.$. '.*!(*0.!*-$/..* - '0)/*.0/ *''0 !*-2#$# '7 0. /*+'4 BAHIA • Afro-Brazilian Salvador • Splendid beaches & resorts • Scenic Chapada Diamantina

# 0'/0-'# -/*!!-$) -5$' #$- ,0$- ./' ./ 2 &/* 3+'*- /.+$/' Salvador #. '1$.# -*,0 #0-# .) *'*)$'0$'$)".'*)".$ *0/$,0 $) -.. -1$)"/# $./$)/$1 !-$)$)!'0 ) 0$.$) $.+ -!*-( 1 -42# - $) /# .// #$.*./ ./- /# ./#-*0"#"'*-$*0. # .)'$//' - .*-/. .0#./# 0./'$)"Porto Seguro )/#

,0$ / - Trancoso #$.-$$)/ -$*-$.-*& ) 4/# 0/$!0'Chapada Diamantina SERGIPE, ALAGOAS & PERNAMBUCO • Thrilling Rio São Francisco • Olinda’s colonial elegance • World-class diving in Fernando de Noronha

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• Scenic beaches & rainforest • Pretty offshore islands • Fascinating soccer museum in Santos

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Boat floating on crystal-clear waters around Ilhabela, São Paulo state

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PARAÍBA, RIO GRANDE DO NORTE & CEARÁ • Unusual geological formations • Festival in Campina Grande • Beaches & dune buggies

*'6*4''56#6'5(14/+0)6*' *'#46.#0&1(6*'146*'#56 4'37+4'#9''-#4#>$#+5 (#/175(14+65 !&&'5'46 +06'4+149*+%*+5&166'&9+6* )'1.1)+%#.(14/#6+10557%* #56*'564+-+0)$17.&'4Lajedo do Pai Mateus +0 #4+4+155+.+<'&&+015#74(116 24+065%#0$'5''0#6Vale dos Dinossauros +0 17<# Campina Grande5 '56#570+0#5 &4#95#./156#/+..+102'12.' '8'4;70'+1 4#0&'&1 146'#0&'#4=#4' 4'0190'&(146*'+4$'#%*'5

6 Genipabu #0& Jericoacoara $ 619'4+0)5#0&&70'5%#0 $'':2.14'&$;$7)); PIAUÍ & MARANHÃO • Magical Delta do Parnaíba & Lençóis Maranhenses • Hills of Serra da Capivara • Colorful São Luís

*'5'691%1#56#.56#6'5%#0 $'8+5+6'&18'4(17461(+8' &#;5 *'59#/25#0&4+8'4 +0'+5.#0&51(6*'Delta do Parnaíba#0&6*'&70'51( Lençóis Maranhenses $ #4'$'56':2.14'& +06*'9'65'#510*'+06' 4+14('#674'56*'Serra da

Lagoon and dunes, Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses, Maranhão

Capivara /1706#+0 AMAZONAS, RORAIMA, 4#0)'*'5%'0+%%1.10+#. %+6;1(São Luís $ ACRE & RONDÔNIA %'.'$4#6'56*'7/$#/'7 $1+('56+8#.9+6*)4'#6('4814 • Intriguing, wild Amazon

PARÁ & AMAPÁ • Crafts in colonial Belém • Wildlife-rich Ilha de Marajó • Picturesque Santarém

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• Trekking in the savannas • Chico Mendes Museum

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Picturesque setting of a typical stilt house on the Rio Solimões near Manaus, Amazonas

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BRASÍLIA, GOIÁS & TOCANTINS • Modernist Brasília • Colonial towns • Jalapão & Ilha do Bananal

!+6*/107/'06#.$7+.&+0)5 4#5>.+#+510'1(6*'914.&5 (+0'561&'40+56%+6+'56%#0 $'5''0%1/(146#$.;+0#&#; 4'5'48+0)8#56(14 '565 1+=5#0&1%#06+05 0''.'#56 &#;5*' 52'%6#%7.#4 Chapada dos Veadeiros $ #0& Parque Nacional das Emas #4'6*'/#+0 #664#%6+105+01+=5 *' 56#6'+5&166'&9+6*%1.10+#. /+0+0)619056*#6#4'#/10) 6*'$'5624'5'48'&+0176*

/'4+%# 1%#06+05('#674'5 6*' 9+0&+0)5#0&&70'51( Jalapão $#0& 6*'':2#05+8'4+8'4+5.#0& Ilha do Bananal

Jabiru storks in the northern Pantanal, Mato Grosso

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MILEAGE CHART RIO DE JANEIRO 326 525

VITÓRIA

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10 = Distance in miles 10 = Distance in kilometers

BELO HORIZONTE

720 776 460 1160 1250 741

BRASÍLIA

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BELÉM

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CURITIBA 253 408

SÃO PAULO

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A reveler dressed as a Bahian woman (Baiana), performing at Rio de Janeiro’s Carnaval

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The verdant countryside near Bento Gonçalves, a wine-producing town in the Serra Gaúcha, Rio Grande do Sul

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Petrobras (Petróleo Brasileiro), Brazil’s state-run gas and oil refinery, near Rio de Janeiro

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Residents of Rio de Janeiro (Cariocas) playing soccer on Ipanema beach

SPORT & CULTURE

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A group of musicians rehearsing Brazil’s country music sertanejo, in Cidade de Goiás

22

I N T R O D U C I N G

B R A Z I L

The Landscapes of Brazil

KEY

Larger than the US (excluding Alaska) and bordering 10 of the 12 other South American countries, Brazil is home to a wide variety of breathtaking landscapes, from vast swamps to desert, and thick rainforest to metropolitan cityscapes. Covering over 2 million sq miles (.3.5 million sq km) and embracing over 40 percent of Brazilian territory, the Amazon rainforest is the most dominant landscape in Brazil and the best known. Although massive and spectacular, the Amazon Basin is only one biome out of several in Brazil, each with its own distinct scenery, fascinating wildlife, and climate.

•

The Amazon rainforest

•

The Pantanal

D The serfao •

The cerrado

D Mata Atlantica — • International border A

Peak

The Northern Highlands in Amazonia are impressive mountains, strung along

The Amazon rainforest (see pp260-6l), one of the most '

complex ecosystems in the world, is characterized by vast "^ jt^^—^— expanses of dense forest, with a wide range of vegetation. Large areas, such as the buritipalm-dominated igapos, are annually flooded by the waters of the Rio Negro.

The Pantanal (see pp320-21), an immense/ wetland, is the largest seasonally flooded area " "^ on the planet, inundating as 'much as two-thirds of its total area for half the year, during the rainy season. Dotted with small, forested elevations, the southern Pantanal is used for cattle grazing during the dry season. THE WET & THE DRY SEASON During the wet season, which lasts from December to March, the rising rivers inundate the flat land. This process creates cordilhieras (isolated islands) amid vast lakes and flowering shrubs. However, it is during the dry season (May to September), that wildlife is at its most spectacular in the Pantanal. During this time, the ponds teem with fish, and thousands of birds flock around the water holes.

The Pantanal in the wet season, near Porto Jofre

The Pantanal with tiny forests in the dry season

A

P O R T R A I T OF

B R A Z I L

The sertao (see p233) is a semi-arid region in the interior of Brazil's northeast and parts of northern Minas Gerais. The essentially barren landscape, dominated by caatinga, is a uniquely Brazilian habitat. The sertao receives very little rainfall during the dry 'months, and is largely strewn with cacti and thorny shrubs. There are periods of intense drought, which 'makes it a harsh environment for wildlife and people alike. As a result, 'much of the flora and fauna have specially adapted themselves to the lack of water.

The cerrado (see pp296-7) features wide expanses of open, tropical grassland scattered with small, closed canopy forests, 'razil's central plateau is the world's 'most biologically rich savanna with over 10,000 plant species.

Mata Atlantica (see p!09), or the Atlantic rainforest, is a 4,600-mile (7,400-km) coastal band endowed with a stunning diversity of landscapes, from the granite peaks and sheer cliffs of the Great Escarpment to the beautiful white sands and surf of the Costa do Sol.

23

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Grande Sertão exhibition, Museum of Portuguese Language, São Paulo

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Heitor Villa-Lobos, one of Brazil’s greatest classical composers

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Sergio Mendes ) Antônio Carlos Jobim 2.

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Daniela Mercury0-./ *)/*#$.&
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DJ playing in a São Paulo club

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Evangelical Protestants at Igreja Universal do Reino, São Paulo

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BRAZIL’S BIGGEST CLUBS & STADIA SOCIEDADE ESPORTIVA PALMEIRAS (1914) Stadium: Palestra Itália, São Paulo Capacity 35,000 CRUZEIRO ESPORTE CLUBE (1921) Stadium: Mineirão, Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais Capacity: 76,500 CLUBE DE REGATAS DO FLAMENGO (1895) Stadium: Gávea/Marancanã, Rio de Janeiro Capacity: 8,000 (Gávea)/103,022 (Marancanã) FLUMINENSE DE FEIRA FUTEBOL CLUBE (1902) Stadium: Marancanã, Rio de Janeiro Capacity: 103,022 GRÊMIO FOOT-BALL PORTO ALEGRENSE (1903) Stadium: OlÍmpico Monumental, Porto Alegre Capacity: 54,081 SÃO PAULO FUTEBOL CLUBE (1930) Stadium: Morumbi, São Paulo Capacity: 80,000

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Smoke rising from the wheels of Ferrari team driver Michael Schumacher’s car, Brazilian Grand Prix, São Paulo

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FEBRUARY JANUARY SUMMER

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Hooded torchbearers at the Processão do Fogaréu, Cidade de Goiás

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)4?3.::70=.748,?4. .:9/4?4:9>?30>:@?30=9 ,9/>:@?30,>?0=9=024:9>,=0 ,??=,.?4A0?:A4>4?:=>.=:>> MARCH =,E47?3010>?4A4?40>-0249 49@90;,A492?30B,D1:= International Book Biennial 49?0=9,?4:9,78@>4.,9/,=? +*+/(2+,,.=:>> Festa Nacional da Maçã 10>?4A,7>?3,?,=0,3@20 =,E47 /,D1,4=8,=60/ *+2&J::,<@48 /=,B'30 ',D -D-::67,@9.30>49?0=,.?4A0 &,9?,,?,=49,C34-4?4:9> 0>-4,94>0C@,7,9/ ,@?3:=>0>>4:9>70.?@=0>,9/ 8@>4.,7>3:B>,9/0=8,9 '=,9>209/0=$,=,/04> .@7?@=,7;0=1:=8,9.0> 1:76;0=1:=8,9.0>,>B077,> ,7>:>429414.,9? Semana Santa +*+ -0>?:B492:1?30F-0>?,;;70 JUNE ,.=:>>$0=9,8-@.:!49,> ;=:/@.0=G?4?70 Micarande &-*+ 0=,4>9":A,0=@>,7K8 Festas Juninas 0%(, ,8;49,=,9/0'3014=>? ?30;7,D#15)+#,-) -"+).!".(,.=:>> '#+-:11>0,>:9 $,>>4:9:13=4>?4>>?,20/ ,=9,A,7:@?>4/0?30>?,?0:1 &:@?30,>?=,E47:8,20 B4?3:A0=

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Women in traditional dresses performing samba-da-roda at the Festa do Bembé do Mercado, Santo Amaro

% +

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PUBLIC HOLIDAYS New Year’s Day,9 Carnaval'@0 /,D> -01:=0,>?0= Good Friday !,= ;= Easter Sunday!,= ;= Tiradentes Day;= Labor Day!,D Corpus Christi@9 Independence Day

&0;? Elaborate headgears for the Festa do Bumba-meu-boi, São Luís

4>:110=0/?:&?9?:9D @9 &?:39@9 ,9/&?$0?0=@9 '30 10>?4A4?40>?3,??,60;7,.0,? ?30 ++#4 484?,?4:9>:1:7/ .:@9?=DA477,>,=08,=60/ -D?=,/4?4:9,710,>?492 Festa do Pinhão +&2.( ,20>&,9?,,?,=49, 070-=,?492?300/4-70 *#("5) >00/:1?30$,=,9H ;490?3010>?4A,749.7@/0> 74A07D8@>4.;0=1:=8,9.0> GLBT Parade +&2.(&J: $,@7:#=2,94E0/>49.0 ?30;,=,/04>:90:1?30 -4220>?0A09?>:14?>649/ 49?30B:=7/ Festa do Bumba-meu-boi

0")&')(-"&J: @L> 8;=:A4>0/>:92>,9/ /,9.0>-D>64770/;0=1:=80=> ?077?30>?:=D:1?30/0,?3 ,9/=0>@==0.?4:9:1,-@77 Festa do Boi Bumbá .( 3

$,=49?49>98,E:9,> @8-,80@-:44>69:B9,> :4@8-H'B:2=:@;> ,;=4.3:>:49-7@0,9/ ,=,9?4/:49=0/.:8;0?0 49>4/0,.'8+)')-@47? ?:3:7/

>;0.?,?:=> São João .(.&,=@,=@ ,8;49,=,9/0)++8 4>?30;=0/:849,9?=3D?38 ,??30/,9.010>?4A,7B34.3 /=,B>8,9D70,/492 ;0=1:=80=> International Puppet Theater Festival .(.!,907,

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The Republic Proclamation Day":A

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:49A4770&,9?,,?,=49, ,9.0;0=1:=8,9.0>B:=6 >3:;>,9/.:8;0?4?4:9> ?,60;7,.0,?:90:1?30 B:=7/>7,=20>?/,9.010>?4 A,7>10,?@=492/,9.01:=8> =,924921=:85,EE,9/1:76 ?:.7,>>4.,7-,770? Ilhabela Sailing Week - /+#,73,-07,9:B9,> ?30>,47492.,;4?,7?304>7,9/ 4>1,80/1:=.:8;0?4?4A0 =,.0>,9/=02,??,>:=2,94E0/ -D?30*,.3?7@-/073,-07, Fortal &,-0%:=?,70E, '30.:@9?=D>-4220>?'# +-307/,?4/,/0:=?,7 /=,B>.=:B/>B4?3178@>4. ,9/>8,77>.3::7>:1,' AUGUST

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=0@94:9>;7,D>70.?@=0> ,9/.:9.0=?>10,?@=0:9 ?30A0=>,?470;=:2=,874>? Festa do Peão de Boiadeiro

!#((#(!)(-" +". ,==0?:>&J:$,@7:>?,?0 '30B:=7/>7,=20>? /,D =:/0:0A09?=0.04A492,78:>? :9084774:9A4>4?:=>0A0=D D0,=:9.0=?>,9/1::/1,4=> Pinga Festival +0%( $,=,?D :.,7"6 >,8;7492> ,* ,7>: 69:B9,>*#(!8@>4.,7 >3:B>,9/1::/>?,77> :110=492=024:9,7/074.,.40> International Festival of Culture and Gastronomy

-/+#,'4=,/09?0> /,D49?0=9,?4:9,7 2,>?=:9:84.0A09?B4?3 B:=6>3:;>,9/0C34-4?4:9> 49=0>?,@=,9?>:=,?;@-74. ><@,=0>,77:A0=?30?:B9

Festa da Nossa Senhora das Neves .! :J:$0>>:,

&?=00?.070-=,?4:9>1:= /,D>?:8,=6?30/,D:1?30 .4?D>;,?=:90>>#@= ,/D:1 ?30&9:B'30=3D?38:1 +/)/01490>?308::/ Festival de Gramado ,--0) 0%,=,8,/:'308:>? 48;:=?,9?1478,B,=/>0A09? 49=,E47:110=>A40B0=>?30 -0>?49=,E474,9,9/ ,?49 80=4.,9.4908, Festa Literária Internacional de Paraty (FLIP) +&2.!

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Taking the bull by the horns, Festa do Peão de Boiadeiro, Barretos

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ÏT

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30/85 32/89

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33/91 31/88

23/73 23/73 24/75 24/75

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17/62

21/70 21/70

7

8

7

3

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hrs

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9/229 1/25 4/102 11/279 in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm

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Jul

Oct

Average monthly maximum temperature

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The wetlands of the Pantanal

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Jan

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25/77 20/68 16/61

Humid: Heavy rainfall, high humidity. Tropical: Distinct hot humid and cold dry seasons. Semi-arid: Hot weather conditions, scanty rainfall. Humid subtropical: Cold winter, year-round rainfall.

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500

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Jul

Oct

Jan

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4

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12/304 6/152 3/76 12/304

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RIO DE JANEIRO

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° C/F 25/77

21/70

15/59 10/50

25/77 14/57

28/82 18/64

29/84 27/81 24/75 25/77 23/73 21/70 19/66 17/63

BELO HORIZONTE ° C/F 27/81

24/75

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16/61 10/50

5

6

7

6

6

7

5

7

6

9

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6

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TIMELINE 13000 BC 3*4+9-*

1000 BC–AD 1000 2&?F3.&3 (.;.1.?&9.43(:77*391>7*+*77*)94 &8&9.9.473.3'>&7(-&*414,.898 )*;*1458&(745.77.,&9.438>89*2

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1000 BC

AD 1

AD 500–1300 *7.4)4+2&/47

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.*7&7(-.(&1 84(.*9.*88*991*) &143,9-* 2&?43 AD 1000 AD 1500 *)74 &'7&14+479:,&1 1&3)8.3&-.&

Detail of a meeting of Portuguese sailors and natives of Brazil, a 1592 line engraving by Theodor de Bry

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84)6<)<176; )476/ <0- 67:<0-);<-:6 +7);< ;776 *-+)5- <0- *);- 7. <0- :)B141)6 -+7675A #)4>),7:)6, 416,)-5-:/-,);3-A +-6<-:;.7:<0-;=/):<:),- $0- 0=6<16//)<0-:16/ 16,1/-67=; 8-784- 07?->-: ?-:- .7=6, <7 *- =6;=1<)*4- ;4)>-; .7: <0- 84)6<)<176; $0-A?-:-*-<<-:;=1<-,.7:<0-*:)B14 ?77, <:),- )6, ?-:- 5),- <7 47/ )6, <:)6;87:< <15*-: 16;<-), :75 <0-

; <0- 4)6,7?6-:; <=:6-, <7 .:1+)1587:<16/5144176;7.;4)>-; Painting showing a group of indigenous Brazilian slaves at work in a sugar plantation

COLONIZATION & EXPANSION

16/ 7D7 +76.-::-, ;8-+1)4 +74761)4 8:1>14-/-; <7 <0- <0-):1;<7+:)<;)6,5167:/-6<:A?07 ?-:--@8-+<-,<7,->-478)6,/7>-:6 <0- 76 *-0)4. 7. <0- :7?6$0- 07?->-:5-< ?1<0 ),>-:;- +415)<1+ +76,1<176; )6, 07;<14- 16,1/-67=; 8-784- #75- 7. <0- ?-:- )<<)+3-, *A <0- 16,1/-67=; :)B141)6; 6 <0- :7?6 ?); .7:+-, <7 ;-6, $75E ,- #7=;));<0-.1:;-:67:?07?); );;1/6-, <0- <);3 7. 8:7<-+<16/ <0- .-?:-5)1616/+)8<)16+1-;

COLONIAL WARS

&014-<0-!7:<=/=-;-:7?6?);;<144 ;<:=//416/ <7 +76;741,)<- 1<; 074, 76 :)B14 <0- =<+0 )6, :-6+0 .7:+-; +76<16=-, <7 -6+:7)+0 76 1<; <-::1 <7:1-; 6

<0-:-6+00),5),- 16:7),; 16<7 <0- *)A 7. =)6)*):) -;<)*41;016/<0-1:7?6+7476A:-6+0 6<):+<1+ !7:<=/=-;- .7:+-; ;-1B-, <0- +7476A 16 )6, .7=6,-, ) 6-?+1)<--:; +76<16=-, <7 84=6,-: <0- +7);<)4 +1<1-;&1<0)87?-:.=4.4--<<0-=<+0 7..-:-, ) /:-)<-: +0)44-6/- 6 <0- =<+0+)8<=:-,#)4>),7:)6,4)1, ;1-/- <7 <0- +1
SUGAR & THE SLAVE TRADE

6<:7,=+-, <7 :)B14 16 ;=/): :-84)+-, <0- +7=6<:A; .1:;< 5)27: -@87:< *:)B14 ?77, ?01+0 ?); 6-):4A?18-,7=<);):-;=4<7.7>-: -@8471<)<176 #-<<16/ =8 01; +)81<)4 16 #)4>),7:$75E,-#7=;)-641;<-,<0- ;=887:<7.<0--;=1<;$0-16,1/-67=; 8-784- ?07 ,1, 67< +76>-:< <7 0:1;<1)61-, )6, ;-6< <7 ?7:3 16 ;=/): 84)6<)<176; ; ) :-;=4< 7. <0- 01/0 ,-5)6, .7: ;=/): 16 =:78- ;=/): +)6- /:7?6 16

African slaves in a sugar mill, using an early form of grinder for refining sugar

TIMELINE 153216/7D7

,1>1,-;<0-4)6, 16<7

1550 .:1+)6 ;4)>-;;0188-, <7:)B14<7 ?7:3;=/): 84)6<)<176;

1500 1532#=/):+)6-1; 16<:7,=+-,<7:)B14

1572 76;<:=+<1767.

#)4>),7:; )<0741+ +)<0-,:)4+7584-<-,

.7=6,-,*A $75E,- #7=;)

7++=8A

1600

1550 1549#)4>),7:

1630 $0- =<+0

1554-;=1<; .7=6,#D7!)=47

1565:-6+0

6<):+<1+ ,-;<:7A-,)6, "17,-)6-1:7 .7=6,-,

1624 $0- =<+0

+)8<=:-#)4>),7: 4)A16/<0-+1
416,) 1650

$ # $

" '

" (

An engraving depicting naval combat between French and Portuguese ships off the coast of Brazil

.4--< 7. <0- !7:<=/=-;- )6, #8)61;0 -@8-44-, <0-5 $0- =<+0 7++=81-, 416,) 16 )6, *A +76<:744-, ) >);< ;<:-<+0 7. +7);<416- -6,16/ !7:<=/)4; 5767874A 7. <0- ;=/): <:),- =:16/ )6, -):7=6, "-+1.- 7447?16/ ;->-:)4 A-):; 7. 78-6 ?):.):- <0- =<+0 .7:5)44A ?1<0,:-?16 THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD

$0- ,-+416- 7. <0- ;=/): 16,=;<:A +716+1,-,?1<0<0-,1;+7>-:A7./74, 6 /74, ?); .1:;< ,1;+7>-:-, 16 #)*):) 16); -:)1; *A <0-

8):)5141<):A ),>-6 <=:-:;?07.)+-,/:=-416/+76,1<176; ); <0-A 8:-;;-, 164)6, <7?):, <0- 6,-)6.77<0144;74,?);)4;7.7=6, 16=1)*C)<7:7;;716 7<0 ->-6<;4-,<7.=:<0-:,->-4785-6<)6,

1719 74,,1;+7>-:-,

1661 $0- =<+0

.7:5)44A?1<0,:)?.:75 !7:<=/=-;-<-::1<7:1-;

16 =1)*C)<7 :7;;7

1700

-@8)6;176 7. <0- +7=6<:A; 16<-:17: $:)..1+<7#D7!)=47)6,"17,-)6-1:7 :)81,4A 16+:-);-, )6, 6-? +755= 61<1-; ,:-? 8-784- )?)A .:75 <0- 7:<0-);< +7);< $0- .7+=; 7. 87?-: 16 :)B14 57>-, .:75 <0- 7:<0-);< <7 <0- #7=<0-);< )6, "17 ,- )6-1:7 ?);5),-<0-6-?+)81<)416 STRUGGLE FOR INDEPENDENCE

$0- /74, :=;0 4);<-, 67< 57:- <0)6 A-):; $0- ,-+416- 7. /74, 16 <0- <0 +-6<=:A 4-, <7 01/0 <)@-; ); :)B14 ?); .7:+-, <7 5--< <0- 9=7<) ;-< *A <0- :7?6 .7: <0- 51615=5 )66=)4/74,8:7,=+<176$01;+7=84-, ?1<0 <0- :)B141)6 :-;-6<5-6< )< <0-1: -@+4=;176 .:75 ),5161;<:)<176 )6, <0- !7:<=/=-;- ,7516)6+- 7. .7:-1/6<:),-+=4516)<-,16<0- 6+76.1,F6+1) 16-1:) :-*-44176 -, *A $1:),-6<-; ?07 ?);->-6<=)44A-@-+=<-,<0-=8:1;16/ ?);)15-,)<:)B141)616,-8-6,-6+- .:75!7:<=/=-;-:=4-

1763 "17,- )6-1:75),- <0-6-?+)81<)4 +1
1750

1695 74,,1;+7>-:-,

16#)*):)16); -:)1;

1789 6+76.1,F6+1) 16-1:)=8:1;16/ 1;9=-44-,)6,<0- 4-),-:$1:),-6<-; 1;0)6/-,

1800

% # ! &

# *

PROVINCIAL UNREST

Dom Pedro proclaiming “Independéncia ou Morte!” at the Rio Ipiranga, on September 7, 1822

THE FIRST EMPEROR OF BRAZIL

%2/ +.@+8-/ 90 9 / 23= 19@/<87/8> >9 <+D36 8 >2/<9C+60+736CA/9 ?<8 >9 ./+6 A3>2 2/ "<38-/ #/1/8> A29 2+. =>+C/. ,+-5 38 <+D36 :<9-6+37/. 38./:/8./8-/ 0<97 "9<>?1+6 98 $/:>/7,/< 8+0+79?==-/8/+>>2/#39 :3<+81+ 2/ >92/ "9<>?1?/=/ 38=3183+ 0<97 23= ?8309<7 ./G 8./:/8./8-/ 9< /+>2 %22= 6+>/< 2/ -<9A8/. 237=/60 7:/<9<97"/.<9 6 > 2 9 ? 1 2 > 2 / + = = ? 7 : > 3 9 8 9 0 38./:/8./8-/ 2+. ,//8 /+=C 97 "/.<9 =998 2+> 9<1+83D381 >2/ 8/A 19@/<87/8> A+= <3..6/. A3>2 -2+66/81/= 3= 9A8 +?>9-<+>3- 8+>?9 ,/ >2/ ,311/=> 2?<.6/ 38 A388381 >2/ -9803./8-/ 90 23= =?,4/->= %2/ 8/A -98=3>?>398 2/ :<9:9=/. ,+=/. 98 23= 9A8 ?86373>/. :9A/< A+= =><9816C 9::9=/. ,C >2/ +==/7,6C (2/8 97 "/.<9 .3=73==/. 23= +==/7,6C 38 ./798=><+>9<= ./7+8./.3>=+>/7/8>

THE COFFEE INDUSTRY

900// A23-2 A+= 38><9.?-/. >9 <+D36 38 >2/ /+<6C = 0366/. >2/ @93.6/0>,C>2/-966+:=/90>2/=?1+< 38.?=>2/ A+8381 196.
A formal portrait of Brazil’s Emperor Dom Pedro II (1825–91), depicting him in full regalia

TIMELINE

1831"/.<9.3=73==/=

+:96/98= +.@+8-/09<-/=97 9H9>906//"9<>?1+6 +8./>9<+D36

1808

1810

97 "/.<9 A+= 09<-/. >9 +,.3-+>/ 380+@9<9023=03@/C/+<96.=9897 "/.<9 <97 >9 >2/. = 2/ -9?8>2/ C9?81 /7:/<9<= 8+7/ .?<381 + :/<39. 90 >?<7936 38 A23-2 69-+6 0+->398= =>9 1+38 -98><96 90 >2/3< :<9@38-/= +8. >9 5//: >2/ 7+==/=38638/%2/9 >2/ :<9@38-/= 38 A2/8 <+D36 ,/-+7/ + 0/./<+>398 90 69-+66C +?>9 8979?= 2 699=/ +66/13+8-/ >9 >2/ -/8>/< %2/ = +8. :9:?6+< 79@/7/8>= >2+> 7+<5/. >2/=/ C/+<= .3. 89> =:<381 0<97 /-98973- 73=/ 0<97 +>>/7:>= >9 =2+2/ :<9= :/<3>C =>/77381 0<97 >2/ 9<>2 >6+8>3-./7+8.09<<+D36=/B:9<>=

>2/ 98=>3>?/8> ==/7,6C+0>/<+ .<+0>-98=>3>?>398 3=:<9:9=/.

1820 1822 %2/"<38-/#/1/8>

:<9-6+37=38./:/8./8-/ 0<97"9<>?1+6-<9A8381 237=/607:/<9<97 "/.<9

1842 1837–38 %2/

$+,38+.+ #/,/6639838 $+6@+.9<

1830 1825 <3>+38+8.

"9<>?1+6=318+>C
#/,/66398= 3838+= /<+3=+8. $H9"+?69 1840

1834 <+D36

,/-97/=+ 0/./<+>39890 +?>98979?=
1838–41 %2/

+6+3+.+ #/,/6639838 +<+82H9

%

$ % ! # ) ! # *

A + = , / 6 3 / @ / . > 9 2 + @ / ,<9?12>>2/03<=>-900//,/+8= 38>9 <+D36 0<97 23= 49?<8/C >99 069?<3=2 7+386C 38 38+= /<+3= +8. $H9"+?69B:+8.381-900// :<9.?->398 38 >2/ = +8.

=+>><+->/.<3>3=238@/=> 7/8> 38 <+36<9+.= >9 =://. ><+8=:9<>90>2/,/+8=>9>2/ -9+=>%2/-9+=>+6$+8>9=F$H9 "+?69 #+36<9+. A+= 09669A/. ,C + =/<3/= 90 <+36 <9+.= >2+> 6385/. >2/ 89<>2 /+=>/<8-9+=>>9>2/38>/<39< SLAVERY ABOLISHED

The Surrender of Uruguaiana, painted during the war

THE WAR OF THE TRIPLE ALLIANCE <97 >9 "+<+1?+C+8.>2/+663/. -9?8><3/=90<1/8>38+<+D36+8.& 98/90>2/,699.3/=>-98063->=98>2/7/<3-+8 -98>38/8> 6=9589A8+=>2/"+<+1?+C+8(+<3>2+= ,//8A3./6C+>><3,?>/.>9>2//B:+8=3983=>+7,3>398= 90"+<+1?+C+8.3->+>9<<+8-3=-9$96+899:/D+8. >2/<+D363+8+8.<1/8>383+87/..63813838>/<8+6 &3-=%2/9?>-97/90>2/A+2/ ./@+=>+>381./0/+>90"+<+1?+C,C>2/%<3:6/ 663+8-/ ,?>+>>2/-9=>909@/< -+=?+6>3/=

= -90 0// /B:9<>= <9=/ =>/+.36C=9.3.>2/8?7,/<= 9037:9<>/.=6+@/=8 #39./ +8/3<9 +698/ >2/C =9+9

38 (236/ =6+@/9A8/<=+<1?/.>2+>=6+@/<+./!@/<>2/8/B>03@/ 89> ./79<+63D381 9>2/<= A/38/ 6+8.381= =>9::/. /8.381 >2/ ><+8= 0+@9< 90 2 >6+8>3-><+./8 >2/ 0 -+,38/> 38 #39 <+8-9 6+,9< @/8>?+66C + + : : < 9 @ / . + 6 + A -98><+-> =C=>/7 >2+> 0>6/ ,/>>/< =6+@/= +8. 2+8 =6+@//<=>9-++,63=2/. ,C >2/ 09<>2/7?8>36>2/C "+<63+7/8> /A 6+A= +8. ./- C/+<= ? 8 + - - / : > + , 6 / > 9 96. />A//8 =6+@/ 9A8/<= A/ /809<-/. 37731<+8>= +<<3@/. 38 =?-2 += >2/ 9<./< An 1857 portrayal of black $H9 "+?69 >9 A9<5 += 09 slaves on a plantation 6+,92/ @93. =+36 09< 0<3-+ %2/ 0+36?/. ,C >2/ 1<+.?+6 >9 /809<-/ >2/=/ 9<./<= -+?=/. ./-638/ 38 >2/ =6+@/ :9:?6+>398 C 2<9?129?> >2/ = >2/ =6+@/ :9:?6+>398 A+= >2/ >2-/8>?3=2+8. 9 2+60 3>= =3D/ 8 >2/ .97/=>3- :2/ 96./8 +A A+= :+==/. 038+66C <+D363+8 19@/<87/8> >9 9?>6+A >2/ +,963=2381=6+@/

1875 %2/ #39 <+8-9-+,38/> /8+->=+6+A /8=?<381>2/A/66 ,/38190-236.9=6+@/=

1850<3>3=2+8. .97/=>3-:2/<+D363+8 19@/<87/8>>9 9?>6+A=6+@/><+./

1850

1860 1864–70 %2/(+<90>2/

%<3:6/ 663+8-/

1868 97:6/>39890>2/

$+8>9=F$H9"+?69<+36<9+.

1870

1888 %2/ 96./8 +A :+==/./8.381 =6+@/
1880 1875–87

::<9B37+>/6C

3773 1<+8>=+<<3@/38 $H9"+?69

1884$6+@/=

9@/< C/+<=96. /7+8-3:+>/.

"

#

'

:/,*,5:8(3.6<,854,5: THE FIRST REPUBLIC *6;3+ ,>,8*09, *65:863 5 :/,465(8*/?=(9 653? :/86;./ :/, 36*(3 6<,8:/86=5 )? ( 4030:(8? 630.(8*/0,9 68 " ! *6;7 =/0*/ =(9 3,+ )? "/, *659:0:;:065(3 9?9 ( 8 , * / ( 3 ,6+686 +( :,4 =(9 6--9,: )? :/, 659,*( (5+ 9;7768:,+ )? ! 68 :/, 8(@039*6--,,)(865964 8,(3 9?9:,4 6- ;5=80: ,+86 =(9 ,>03,+ 05 :,5(.8,,4,5:9(465. (809 =/,8, /, +0,+ :=6 :/,9, 36*(3 )699,9 )? ?,(89 3(:,8 8,7;)30* =(9 =/0*/36*(3630.(8*/0,9 )685 =0:/ ,6+686 (9 :/, -089: 78,90+,5: "/, */69, :/, 9:(:, .6<,8 659:0:;,5: 99,4)3? :/(: 5689=/605:;859,3,* +8,= ;7 :/, *659:0 :,+ :/, 78,90+,5: :;:065 =(9 ( *65-865:(:065 The funeral of King Dom Pedro II in " / , 0 5 - 6 8 4 ( 3 ),:=,,5 :/, !D6 (;36 Paris, reported in a French journal +09:80);:065 6- 76=,8 * 6 - - , , 6 3 0 . ( 8 * / ? : / ( : ,4,8.,+ (9 :/, 8,9;3: 96;./: :6 3040: ,>,*;:0<, 76=,8 6-(84,+9:8;..3,9(5+)(8.(0505.5 (5+ :/, 8(+0*(3 (;:/680:(80(59 =/6 68+,8 :6 */,*2 :/, 5(:065(30@05. =(5:,+ :6 ,>7(5+ 78,90+,5:0(3 :,5+,5*0,96-:/,(84?:/,630.(8*/0* (;:/680:? "/, .86=05. 677690:065 8,7;)30* 9:8,5.:/,5,+ :/, 5(
Scooping coffee beans for shipment after drying, on a São Paulo plantation

“CAFÉ COM LEITE” REPUBLIC "/,,(83??,(896-:/,8,7;)30*=,8, *(33,+ '"*6--,,(5+4032 )?0:967765,5:98(@030(57630:0*9=(9 +6405(:,+)?(5630.(8*/?:/(:*64 7809,+!D6(;36*6--,,)(8659(5+ 05(9 ,8(09*(::3,8(5*/,89"/,9, .86;79*65:8633,+,3,*:68(37630:0*9(5+ :/,78,90+,5*?(3:,85(:,+),:=,,5:/, :=6=,(3:/?9:(:,96-*6--,,(5+4032

::/,:;856-:/, :/*,5:;8?8(@03 3(*2,+ (5 05:,.8(:,+ ,*6564? 64,9:0* *659;47:065 =(9 3(8.,3? 5,.3,*:,+ (5+ :/, 40++3, *3(99 =(9 56: ?,: (*:0<, 05 7630:0*(3 30-, "/, ,*6564?=(968.(50@,+(86;5+3(8., (.80*;3:;8(3 ,9:(:,9 68 "# 8(@03 /(+ 369: 0:9 9;.(8 4(82,: :6 (80)),(5 786+;*,89 =/03, :/, 8;)),8 )664 05 4(@F50( =(9 ),.05505.:6369,0:97804(*?:6468, ,--0*0,5: !6;:/,(9: 90(5 73(5:(:0659 "/,6;:)8,(26-%683+%(8=(9:/, :;8505. 7605: -68 :/, +?5(40* ;8)(5 9,*:6895+;9:80(3786+;*:065+6;)3,+ (5+ (.80*;3:;8(3 +0<,890:? 8,*,0<,+ (5 047,:;9 (9 :/, .86=05. +,4(5+ )? :/, 330,9-689:(73,786+;*:997(82,+ ( 5,= )664 -68 .66+9 6:/,8 :/(5 9;.(8(5+*6--,,"/,63+68+,8.(<, =(?:6:/,7630:0*(3(9708(:06596-:/,

TIMELINE 1889030:(8?6--0*,89

8,),3(.(059:64 ,+86,9:()309/05. (8,7;)30*

680@65:,-6;5+,+ 0505(9,8(09(9 8(@039-089:46+ !"" ,8573(55,+*0:?

$" 1900

1890 1891 "/,-089:

78,90+,5:6- 8(@03,6+686 659,*(6;9:,+ )?(5(
1916 *0<039:(:;:,

1897 ,36

1896 ",(:86

4(@65(9 !% 67,5905 (5(;9

-684(33?,59/805,9 /0,8(8*/0*(3(5+ 7(:80(8*/(3<0,=6- -(403?(5+9,>;(3 8,3(:0659

1910 1902;*30+,9

+( ;5/( =80:,9 ! "&! !

1908 "/,

-089:(7(5,9, 0440.8(5:9 (880<,05 !(5:(8E4

1920 1915!6;:/,(9:90(5

8;)),8,3)6=96;: 8(@03-864:/,4(82,:

"

! "

&

'

:;85,+ (.(059: /04 5,= ;8)(5 .86;79 B =/,5 :/,? 8,(30@,+ .6<,854,5: =/0:, :/(: *8,(:05. ( 9:80*:3? *633(8 =682,89 786- -(9*09:9:(:,=(956:65 ,99065(39 )(52,89 /09(.,5+("/,?=,8, 4,8*/(5:9 (5+ 05+ )0++05.:69,0@,76=,8 ;9:80(309:9 5*8,(905. 05 :/, ,3,*:065 9;7768: -68 05+;9:80(3 =/0*/:/,659:0:;:065 786:,*:065094 4(82,+ )(88,+ $(8.(9 -864 8(@030(57630:0*905:/, *65:,9:05. 65:/9 9 097(8(:,96*0(3 Brazilian army confronts rebels during the 1930 coup ),-68, :/, ,3,*:065 8,-68 4 46<,4,5:9 $(8.(9+,*3(8,+(9:(:, *8677,+;7+;805.:/09 7,806+ ,:=,,5

(5+ 6- ,4,8.,5*? :6 (<,8: (5 (33,.,+ 1;50684030:(8?6--0*,899:(.,+(8,<63: *644;509: 736: , +09963<,+ :/, (.(059: :/, 3(5+,+ ,30:, +,4(5+05. 659:0:;:065 (5+ ,9:()309/,+ :/, 9:(+6 F<6,=!:(:,=/0*/;9,+ 96*06,*65640*46+,850@(:065 8,78,990<,7630:0*(3:(*:0*9(5+8,1,*:,+ THE NEW STATE -8,,4(82,:30),8(3*(70:(3094$(8.(99 )366+3,99 *6;7 )? :/, 4030:(8? 786409,6-(A769:=(8,8(6-30),8:?C 059:(33,+ ,:G306$(8.(9(9786<09065(3 *6;3+ 56: 9(<, :/, -(33 6- :/, 9:(+6 78,90+,5:05 ,:=,,5:/,%683+ F<6 05 =/,5 /, =(9 6;9:,+ %(89/,);03:(*68768(:09:*,5:8(30@,+ )? ,5,8(3;80*6;:8(098,:;85:6 9:(:, (365. -(9*09: 305,9 (3:/6;./ /, 78,90+,5*? 05 =(9 4(88,+ )? +0+ (+<6*(:, 964, 30),8(3 8,-6849 05-3(:065 *688;7:065 (5+ ( 7630:0*(3 "/, *633(79, 6- :/, 63+ 68+,8 /(+ 9*(5+(3 05<63<05. (5 (::(*2 65 ( *8,(:,+ ( <(*;;4 =/0*/ =(9 -033,+ 16;85(309: )? :/, 8,90+,5:9 )6+? )? :/, -(9*09: 5:,.8(309:(9 (5+ .;(8+ (*,+ =0:/ :/, ;3:04(:;4 *644;509:9 "/, -684,8 /(+ 65*, :6 8,90.5 $(8.(9 ,5+,+ /09 30-, 05 ,516?,+ $(8.(99 9;7768: );: 3(:,8 )?9/66:05./049,3-

Citizens of Rio de Janeiro welcoming rebel troops upon the success of the 1930 coup

!" # 1932 &6;5.(84?

6--0*,893,(+:/,08 ;50:9(.(059::/, 63+68+,80505(9 ,8(09(5+ 06

1930 1930 4030:(8?*6;7

059:(339 ,:G306$(8.(9 (9786<09065(378,90+,5:

1938$(8.(9 ,9:()309/,9:/, 9:(+6 F<668 :/,A,=!:(:,C

1950%683+;7 96**,8/,3+05 06+,(5,086

1940 1937$(8.(9

(99;4,9+0*:(:680(3 76=,89;5+,8( 5,=*659:0:;:065

1950 1945 "/,9:(+6

F<6*633(79,9 ;80*6 ;:8( *64,9:676=,8

1951$(8.(9 8,,3,*:,+ 78,90+,5:

1954$(8.(9 *6440:99;0 *0+,=0:/( );33,::6 :/,/,(8:

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8+>398+63=>3- +=:3<+>398= A+= >2/ -398 90 <+=K63+ & +=>2/8/A-+:3>+690<+D36 / = : 3 > / 3 8 = > 3 6 6 3 8 1 8 + > 3 9 8 + 6 -9803./8-/?,3>=-2/5=/<+A+=+6=9 ,/=/>A3>27+==3@/3806+>3986=9>2/ 3806?B 90 09+6 <+:3.6C -+:>?3- 38.?=>2/ ?<,+8,9?<1/93=3/09?8.=>+>/-98><96 >2/8381 <+>2/< >2+8 :<9>/->3@/ 36. =>?<+6 995 :6+-/ ?8./< ! 9I9 9?6+<> F ,?>>2/38-3-+6 380312>381 ,/>A//8 6/0> +8. <312> -?6738+>/.38>2/ 7363>++ THE ERA OF MILITARY RULE

:/<39. 90 <312>A381 7363>++>9<=23: 09669A/. 8 + ,3. >9 +::/+=/ >2/ 2+<.638/<= >2/ 8/A : +<=2+6 ?7,/<>9 +=>/69 < + 8 - 9 < / - / = = / . + 8 . : ? <1 / . President Juscelino Kubitschek on the cover of Time magazine dated January 13, 1970 9812//B:+8=398 90 >2/ := :9A/<= +> >2/ INTO MODERNITY /B:/8=/ 90 >2/ 6/13=6+>?2/ %2/ =-2/5 4?.3-3+2/ '+<1+== =?--/==9< 6+=>/. 0<97 :9:?63=> 6/0> ,?> 1+@/ 23= =?--/==9< >9 ?=2/<381 <+D36 38>9 <>?< .+ 9=>+ / $36@+ F + 79./< 83>C +7:+318381 98 + ,+=3= 09< +?>29<3>+<3+8 / :6+>09<790E30>CC/+<=90:<912/3< @3->92/ 2+<.638/<= A/=-2/5><3/.>9+-23/@/>23= =>366 ?8+,6/ >9 38=>3>?>398+63D/ >2/3< :<9121/8/<9?=38-/8>3@/=09< +1/8.+ :963>3-+66C %2/C .3. 89> 13@/ ?: >2/3< 63,/<+6 -98 099<= =>3>?>398+63=7 += >2/C =?-2 += 69A >+B/= 0/+9 :<3@36/1/= 09< >2/ >2/3< +663+8-/ A3>2 3 7 : 9 < > + > 3 9 8 9 0 >2/ &$ >2/ -3>+./6 7+-238/3-977?83=7 >398= 90 6+8. 66 >23= 8 >2/ ./79 1+@/ 37:/>?= >9 >2/ -<+>3- 7+=5 0/66 900 / - 9 8 9 7 3 - 1 < 9 A > 2 A2/8 /8/<+6 J.3-3 <+>/A23-2:+@/.>2/ -+7/ >9 :9A/< +8. A+C09<>2//-98973- -98>38?/. >9 2/ 8/B> +?>29<3>+<3+8 89>+,6/7+830/=>+>398 Trans-Amazon Highway construction near A 3 > 2 9 ? > : 9 : ? 6 + < =?::9<> 8/B> = - 2 / 5 = Altamira Brazil, July 1971 TIMELINE 1970<+D36A38= >2/=9--/<(9<6. ?:38/B3-9

1960<+=K63+

38+?1?<+>/.+= >2/8/A-+:3>+6 90<+D36

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1980 1984/8/.3>+.+ $36@+,/-97/=>2/ 03<=>,6+-5A97+8 38 981
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8 -3@363+8%+8-/. 38>9 9003-/ += : 9A/@/< 2/ .3/. ,/09+5381 9003-/ <+D36 -97:6/>/. 3>= ><+8=3>398 >9+:9:?6+<6C/6/->/.19@/<87/8>38 A2/8/<8+8.99669<.//669 A98 :/<-/8> 90 >2/ @9>/ %2/

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1990 1994<+D36./0/+>=

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A 1997 demonstration by landless farm workers, demanding jobs, justice, and land reform

2001 981= >97/8+8.A97/8

1995/<8+8.9 +<.9=9>+5/= 9003-/+= :

1995

2002<+D36A38=3>=030>2(9<6. ?:>3>6/./0/+>381/<7+8C

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2005 2006 ?6+.+$36@+3=

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2010

SOUTHEAST BRAZIL

INTRODUCING SOUTHEAST BRAZIL 6265 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY 66101 RIO DE JANEIRO & ESPÍRITO SANTO 102119 MINAS GERAIS 120133 SÃO PAULO CITY 134159 SÃO PAULO STATE 160171

62

S O U T H E A S T

B R A Z I L

Introducing Southeast Brazil The four states of Rio de Janeiro, Espirito Santo, Minas Gerais, and Sao Paulo constitute Brazil's economic heartland. The giant metropolises — Rio de Janeiro, Belo Horizonte, and Sao Paulo — burst with energetic cultural life. Rio de Janeiro holds the greatest attractions with its Carnaval and breathtaking mountains and beaches. Beyond the urban hubs, nature and rural life exist undisturbed. Wild islands lie a short boat ride away. Inland, in the folds of the rugged Minas hills, are colonial towns whose cobbled streets, colorful Portuguese town houses, and ornate Baroque churches remain little changed since imperial times.

Parque Nacional Serra da Canastra

(see p!33), one of the protected areas dotting the region, preserves pristine rainforest and cerrado, as well as rich fauna.

Sao Paulo City (see pp!34-:>9), the capital of Sao Paulo state, is relentlessly urban and frenetic, hut has Brazil's best restaurants shops, and nightlife.

(V >E• ![*.[ ' • «*•«••>•• r u l M 'TltHl' . E

SAO PAULO CITY

(seepp!34-59)

Sao Paulo's coast (see ppl64—71), stretching across 250 miles (400 km), features beaches and islands that serve as the weekend playground for the city.

\ Rio de Janeiro at sunset, with a view of the Botofogo Bay and the dazzling Sugar Loaf mountain

I N T R O D U C I N G

S O U T H E A S T

B R A Z I L

63

Diamantina (see p!24), once a diamond-mining town, set in a scenic landscape, is reputedly the finest of colonial towns in Minos Gerais. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. MINAS GERAIS (seepp!20-33)

RIO DE JANEIRO & ESPIRITO SANTO

(see pp!02-19)

JANEIRO CITY

(see pp66-101)

Rio de Janeiro

(see pp66-101) is a city of neighborhoods, each with its own unique character and most endowed with a great view. The panorama of Sugar Loaf and Botafogofrom Mirante Dona Marta is simply unparalleled.

Petropolis (see ppll2-15), once the summer retreat of the Brazilian royal family, is still the home ofDom Pedro II's heir. The lovely mountain setting gives it a distinct character.

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CARNAVAL DATES 2008)&58%5< 2009)&58%5<

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Party-loving Cariocas!,+0'"#/ /+3)*,/#'*-,/1+11&+ +6,1&#/#3#+1'+1&#!)#+"/ +"1&1'+!)2"#0 ,1&&/'01*0 +"#4#/1'04##(),+% &,)'"6$,/-/16'+%/,2+"1&# !),!(+"0'%+1&102**#/'0 $'+))6!,*'+%1,!),0#

Transport: Take the metro. Use Central Station if your ticket is for an uneven numbered sector and Praça Onze for an even one. Winner’s Parade: Those who missed the event can see part of the parade by winning schools on the Saturday after Carnaval. Tickets: Book your tickets in advance (Maracanã stadium box office, (021) 2568 9962).

A different theme'0!&,0#+ 6#3#/60!&,,)+"!,+!#-12)'7#"

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The colorful Copacabana beach, lined with palm trees

Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) on Corcovado mountain, with Sugar Loaf in view

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Arco do Telles Paço Imperial Nossa Senhora da Candelária

Chafariz da Piramide<'8

(:/19/3 94 */897/(:9+,7+8. <'9+7949.+)/9= '3*94;/8/9/3-8./58

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp366–9 and pp394–6

Barcas Metro Station

! %

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

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Rio de Janeiro. Barcas. Estação de Barcas. Paço Imperial Praça XV de Novembro 48. Map 5 E3. Tel (021) 2533 4491. noon–6pm Tue–Sun. Nossa Senhora da Candelária Praça Pio X, Centro. Map 5 D2. Tel (021) 2233 2324. 7am– noon & 2–4:30pm Mon–Fri. Espaço Cultural da Marinha Av Alfredo Agache, Centro. Map 5 E2. Tel (021) 2104 6025. noon–5pm Tue–Sun.

Casa FrançaBrasil7'3)4

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Detail of the gilded Baroque interior of Mosteiro de São Bento

!

%! Rua Dom Gerardo 68 (entrance by elevator at No. 40), Centro. Map 5 D2. Tel (021) 2206 8100. São Bento. 7–11am, 2–6pm daily. 7:15am Mon–Sat; 8am, 10am & 6pm Sun. www.osb. org.br

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# Praça Mauá, Centro. Map 5 D2. Carioca.

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8/ *;8:>.*;=27;*C25 >25=[email protected] *7- =1.,1>;,1.A12+2=< @8;4<8/=1.!8;=>0>.<.*;=2<= ;*7,2<,8'*?2.;-.;2=8 2<*;=1.*?25B27/5>.7,.- =1. ;*C252*7*;=2<=5.23*-2718 @18<.8@7@8;4 <9.,=*,>5*;5B*-8;7<6*7B 8/=1.*;8:>.,1>;,1.<8/ 27*<.;*2< 7.8/=1. ,1>;,1<12015201=<2<=1. 9*27=2708/=1.058;2/2 ,*=2878/#=;*7,2<+B *.=*78-*8<=*8.518 =1./2;<=;*C252*79*27=270=8 +.-87.279.;<9.,=2?. $1.7.201+8;27087?.7=8 -.#*7=87=M728-*=270+*,4 =8 2<87.8/"28<85-.<= <=;>,=>;.<=<*;8:>. 27=.;28;<,87=*279;2,.5.<< ,85872*5*;=*7- !8;=>0>.<.=25.<

! Rua Goçalves Dias 32, Centro. Map 5 D5. Tel (021) 2232 2300. Carioca. 9:30am–8pm Mon–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat. limited. www.confeitariacolombo.com.br

$1.8586+8$.*;886-*=.< /;86 *7-;.6*27<* @87-.;/>562A8/;=8>?.*> *7- .55.G98:>.8,*=.-27 @1*=@*<=1.7=1.?.;B1.*;= 8/ "282=@*<*6..=2709827= /8;27=.55.,=>*5<*;=2<=<*7- 9852=2,2*7< ".0>5*;<27,5>-.- 9852=2,2*7 ">B *;+8<* !;.<2-.7=.=N528&*;0*<*7- ,8698<.; .2=8;&255*8+8< $1.62;;8;<@.;.<1299.- 27/;86.502>6*7-=1. 6*;+5./;86=*5B@125.

% !& Largo de Carioca 5, Centro. Map 5 D4. Carioca. Tel (021) 2262 0197. 9am–noon, 1–4pm Tue–Fri.

".<=8;.-=82=;,18/#J8 ;*7,2<,8-*!.72=L7,2*2< ,87<2-.;.-87.8/=1.;2,1.<= *7-68<=+.*>=2/>5.A*695.<

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp366–9 and pp394–6

Lavish interior of the historic Confeitaria Colombo

"

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! " $ Av Rio Branco, Centro. Map 5 D4. Tel (021) 2262 3935. Cinelândia. www.theatromunicipal.rj. gov.br

"28<>72,29*5$1.*=.; +>25=[email protected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Stained-glass window at the Catedral Metropolitana

!

!! Av República do Chile 245, Centro. Map 5 D4. Tel (021) 2240 2669. Cinelândia. 7:30am–6pm daily. 11am Mon–Fri, 10am Sat & Sun. Museu Arquidiocesano de Arte Sacra 10am–4pm Wed, Sat & Sun (other days by appt only). www.catedral.com.br

#=*7-270 /= 61201 @2=17827=.;28;,85>67<=12< 1>0.,*=1.-;*51*<*<.*=270 ,*9*,2=B8/ *7-,*7 *,,8668-*=.>9=8 9.895.<=*7-270$1.27=.;28; 2<-8627*=.-+B/8>;6*072/ 2,.7=<=*27.-05*<<@27-8@< =1*=<=;.=,1 /=6=8 =1.,.25270$1.B;.9;.<.7==1. *98<=852,B.558@*=1852, +5>..,,5.<2*<=2,*50;..7 *7-<*27=5B;.-=;*-2=287< $1. Museu Arquidiocesano de Arte Sacra#*,;.-;= ><.>627=1.+*<.6.7= 27,5>-.<12<=8;2,*52=.6<27 2=<,855.,=287<>,1*<=1. +*9=2<6*5/87=<><.-/8; ,1;2<=.7270=1.;*C252*7;8B*5 /*625B=1.085-.7;8<.02/=.- =8!;27,.<<<*+.5+B!89..8 '=8,.5.+;*=.1.;<207270 =1.*+852=2878/<5*?.;B*7- =1.=1;87.8/86!.-;8

Lapa, Centro. Carioca.

$1.68<=/*68><26*0. 8/=1.*;.*478@7*<*9* 2<=1.Arcos da Lapa*7 "28<<=;24270.=;89852=*7 *:>.->,=+>25=27 =8 *=1.-;*5@2=12=<=;>7,*=.- +;270@*=.;-8@7/;86=1. ,872,*5<1*9.@*<,87,.9= #*7=* $.;.<*/8;.<==8=1. >*52C.-+B?8*552*;2 E 9>+52,/8>7=*2727*;08-*

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Opulent façade of the Theatro Municipal

Circo Voador Rua dos Arcos, Lapa. Tel (021) 2533 0354. for shows only.

#

% $ # $ " )

Av Infante Dom Henrique 85, Centro. Map 5 F5. Tel (021) 2240 4944. Cinelândia. noon–6pm Tue–Fri, noon–7pm Sat, Sun & public hols. www.mamrio.org.br

A Batalha do Avaí (1877) by Pedro Américo, Museu Nacional de Belas Artes

Av Rio Branco 199, Centro. Map 5 E4. Tel (021) 2240 0068. Cinelândia. 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 2– 6pm Sat, Sun & public hols. free on Sun. www.mnba.gov.br

Praça Marechal Âncora. Map 5 F4. Tel (021) 2550 9224. Cinelândia. 10am–5:30pm Tue–Fri, 2–6pm Sat, Sun & public hols. restricted. www. museuhistoriconacional.com.br

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@;2==.7-.,5*;*=287< Nacional de Belas &2=8; $1.+>25-2702< Artes .2;.5.<*7-!.-;8 87.8/=1.85-.<= 6G;2,8@18<. 27 "28@2=1*98;=287+.5870 2<87.8/=1. 270=8#*7=2*088;=-*=270 5*;0.<=9*27=270<27=1.@8;5- /;86 9*27=.-87*7.*<.5$1.;. 2<*5<8*0*55.;B/8;,87=.6 98;*;B.A12+2=< $1.0*55.;B1*<*7.A=.7<2?. ,855.,=2878/787;*C252*7 @8;4<*7-*9*;=2,>5*;5B/27. <.5.,=2878/*;8:>.=*52*7 *;=-*=270/;86=1. =1*7- =1,.7=>;2.<$1.6><.>6 @*<,;.*=.-87=1.+*<2<8/* 9;2C.-*;=,855.,=287+;8>01= =8 ;*C25/;86>;89.+B !8;=>0*5<270868F8& *7-12<,8>;=@1.7=1.B/5.- *985.8727 Entrance to the Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM) For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp366–9 and pp394–6

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Rua do Catete 153, Catete. Tel (021) 2558 6350. Catete. noon– 5pm Tue, Thu & Fri; 2–5pm Wed; 2– 6pm Sat, Sun & public hols. www.museudarepublica.org.br

Av Rui Barbosa, Flamengo. Tel (021) 2299 5586. Flamengo. 11am–5pm Tue–Fri; 2–5pm Sat, Sun & public hols. www.sec.rj.gov. br/webmuseu/mcm.htm

$1.<=8;B8/;*C25<12<=8;B *7<8/*;6.72;*7-* *<=85-+B=1.><.>68/=1. @25578=@*7==862<<=12< ".9>+52,92,4<>9@1.;.=1. <6*556><.>6=>,4.-*@*B ><.> 2<=I;2,8*,287*55./= 275*6.708!*;4 7.8/ 8//=+.027<@2=1=1. =1.68<=/*68><;*C252*7< 8/*55=26.*;2*-8*;68 !;8,5*6*=2878/=1.".9>+52, 27 *7-,8?.;<.?.7=< 2;*7-*-*>71*@*<+8;7 Igreja Nossa Senhora da Glória do >7=25 @1.7=1. 27!8;=>0*527 Outeiro rising above tree tops ,*92=*5*7-=1.=1.7 +>=68?.-=8"28 !;.<2-.7=>+2=<,1.4 @2=11.;/*625B@1.7 68?.-/;86"28-. <1.@*<*+*+B *7.2;8=8;*=1.;/2;<= '1*=6*4.<=1. ;.,8;-27 6><.>69*;=2,>5*;5B 8@.?.;2=@*< <9.,2*52<=1*=2=< =1.+20<,;..7=1*= +>25-270,87<=;>,=.- @8>5-6*4.1.;* Praça Nossa Senhora da Glória 135, [email protected] *7- 058+*5<=*;.;/2;<= Glória. Tel (021) 2557 4600. /25627 <18=1.; @*<=1.9;.<2 Glória. 8am–5pm Tue–Fri, -.7=2*5;.<2-.7,. =827=.;7*=287*5<=*; 8am–noon Sat & Sun. 8:30am A portrait of /;86 >7=25 Carmen Miranda -86*7-27 Sat, 9–11am Sun. www. <1.+.,*6.=1. 7=1*=B.*;!;.<2-.7= outeirodagloria.org.br .=J528&*;0*< /2;<= #8>=1 6.;2,*7=8+. 8<=?2<2=8;<=8-8@7=8@7 ;*C25<68<=27/5>.7=2*5<=*=.< 1878;.-@2=1*<=*;87=1. 6*7@18@*<9;.<2-.7=/8; 855B@88-'*548/*6. "28,*778=1.59+>=78=2,. =1.+.*>=2/>58,=*087*5,1>;,1 B.*;<,8662==.-<>2,2-. /=.;1.;-.*=187>0><=

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v João Luiz Alves 13, Urca. due $1.,1>;,1@12,1@*< to open in 2007. 87=1.0;8>7-< ,8695.=.-27 ,*6.=8 7*=287*5*==.7=287@1.72= $1.><.>68/"282<* +.,*6.=1./*?8;2=.95*,.8/ 7.@>7-.;=*4270=1*=*26< @8;<129/8;86!.-;8& *7-120*527 6><.>6 8,*=.-87%;,* +.*,127=1.5886270<1*-8@ 78@7/8;2=<1*7-9*27=.- 8/=1.<9.,=*,>5*;#>0*; 8*/ =25.<-*=270/;86=1. < 68>7=*27=1.6><.>62< 2=@*<-.,5*;.-*7*=287*5 18><.-27=1.12<=8;2,*<<278 687>6.7=+B!;.<2-.7= -* %;,*D=1.,2=B<6*27 &*;0*<27 <18@18><.[email protected] $1.,1>;,1,*7+.;.*,1.- *7- .2=1.;+B,*;8;+B/88=>9 [email protected] *7- =1.<=.9<478@7*<*-.2;*-. =1.*<<278<.;?.-*<*=.5. 8<<* #.718;* =2<*5<898<< 2+5.=8=*4.*<6*55,*+5.,*; ?2<287<=>-28'8;4+.0*727 =1*=<=*;=*-8"><<.5

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The original 1912 cable car, a remarkable feat of its times

The summit574;.)*8:3+47,*99&'1* ;.*<84:94;*745&(&'&3&5&3*2& &3)9-*8(*3.(47(4;&)4&3)"./:(&

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A scene from the film Moonraker

JAMES BOND’S MOONRAKER 3!:,&74&+&3)9-*(&'1*(&7 +472*)9-*'&(0)745+47&2&.3&(9.43 8*6:*3(*.3++*.'!.<.9- 4,*7447* 51&>.3,&2*843)37*&11.+*9-*7*&9 "7&.3 4''*7 43&1).,,8<&80.)3&5 5*).3'>&,74:54+7.9.8-2*7(* 3&7.*8+742&7*89&:7&39<-.(-<&89-*3 14(&9*)3*=9949-*(&'1*(&789&9.43 743.(&11>):7.3,&+.7890.)3&5'.).3 9-*0.)3&55*78-&)(1&.2*)94'* 5&794+9-*++*.'!. (7*< For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp366–9 and pp394–6

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Av Pasteur 520, Praia Vermelha, Urca. 107, 500, 511 & 512. www.bondinho. com.br Helisight Tel (021) 2511 2141. Cable Car Praia Vermelha. 8am–10pm.

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Bustling Copacabana beach, popular with locals and holiday-makers

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The imposing exterior of the Copacabana Palace Hotel

MAP OF COPACABANA, IPANEMA & LEBLON

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Exterior of an upmarket jewelry store in Ipanema

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The exclusive Leblon neighborhood and its fashionable beach

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View of Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas and Jóquei Clube Brasileiro from Corcovado

Lagoa. Map 2 A3. www.lagoarodrigodefreitas.com.br

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Rua Jardim Botânico 920 & 1008, Gávea. Map 1 A1. Tel (021) 3874 1808. 8am–5pm daily. Dec 25 & Jan 1. restricted. www.jbrj.gov.br

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Rua Jardim Botânico 1003, Gávea. Map 1 A2. Tel (021) 2512 9988.

Botafogo. 6:30pm onward Mon, 3:30pm onward Fri, 1:30pm onward Sat & Sun. www.jcb.com.br

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp366–9 and pp394–6

A track lined with palm trees in Jardim Botânico

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Rua das Palmeiras 55, Botafogo. Tel (021) 2286 8899. Botafogo. 9am–5:30pm Tue–Fri; 1–5pm Sat, Sun & public hols. www. museudoindio.org.br

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Rua Sorocaba 200, Botafogo. Tel (021) 2266 1024. Botafogo. 10am–5:30pm Mon–Fri. www.museuvillalobos.org.br

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Indigenous roundhouse on the grounds of Museu do Índio

Stately building housing the Museu Casa de Rui Barbosa

Rua São Clemente 134, Botafogo. Tel (021) 3289 4600. Botafogo. 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. www.casaruibarbosa.gov.br

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Museu Internacional de Arte Naïf Stunning Views For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp366–9 and pp394–6

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Morro do Corcovado. 513 from Rua Cosme Velho, 8:30am–8pm daily. 180, 184, 583 & 584. at the base of Cristo Redentor. Corcovado, (021) 2492 2252. 8:30am–6:30pm daily (entrance at Parque Nacional da Tijuca). www.corcovado.com.br

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Rua Prof. Eurico Rabelo (gate 18), Maracanã. Tel (021) 2299 2936. Maracanã. 9am–5pm for tours (not on game days). www.sec.rj.gov.br/webmuseu/ me.htm

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Rio Zoo’s main gate, gifted to Dom Pedro I by an English aristocrat

Av Pedro II (between Rua Almirante Baltazar & Rua Dom Meinrdo, São Cristóvão). São Cristóvão. Museu Nacional Tel (021) 2568 8262. 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. Dec 25, Jan 1, Carnaval & Good Friday. Jardim Zoológico Tel (021) 2569 2024. 9am– 4:30pm Tue–Sun.

%2/"?38>+.+9+'3=>+>2/ 6+8.=-+:/.1<9?8.=90+09< 7/<<9C+6/=>+>/38-6?./=>2/ Museu Nacional+8.>2/ Jardim Zoológico#39 *99 9?8./.,C979I9'38 >2/?=/?+-398+63= >2/-9?8>=-3/8>303- 38=>3>?>398A23-2=>+<>/.9?> +=>2/9?=/903<.=,/092/#9C+6?=/?7 >2/ 7:/<3+6?=/?7+8. 038+66C>2/+>398+6?=/?7 >=:/<7+8/8>/B23,3>= -9@/<+@+<3/>C9003/6.=0<97 +<-2+/9691C,39.3@/<=3>C+8. ,9>+8C>9/>289691C1/9691C +8.:+6+/98>9691C:+<>90 >2/-966/->398,/6981/.>9 7:/<9+83=> +8.23=A30/>2/7:
Aerial view of the spectacular Estádio Maracanã For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp366–9 and pp394–6

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Av Marquês de Sapucaí, Centro. Map 4 A4. Tel (021) 2563 9000. Praça XI. Cidade do Samba Rua Rivadávia Correa 60, Gamboa. Tel (021) 2213 2503. 9am–5pm Wed–Mon; shows: 9am–11pm Thu. wwwcidadedosambarj.com.br

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The Sambódromo, venue of Rio’s annual Carnaval

>37/09<>2/ +<8+@+6 89<./<>9-97:6/7/8> >2/ $+7,L.<979+6+<1/ -97:6/B589A8+=>2/ Cidade do Samba 3>C90 $+7,+A+=/=>+,63=2/.38

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Av Marechal Floriano 196, Centro. Map 4 B3. Tel (021) 2253 2828. Palácio Itamaraty. 1–4pm Mon, Wed & Fri. 2pm, 3pm & 4pm daily.

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Key to Symbols see back flap

Praia da Barra da Tijuca 1 Av Sernambetiba.

Barra Shopping Center, the largest shopping mall in Latin America

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Barra Shopping Center 2 Av das Américas 4666. Tel (021) 3089 1100.

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Roberto Marinho

3

Trevo das Palmeiras.

The long stretch of Praia da Barra da Tijuca For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp366–9 and pp394–6

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Rio de Janeiro. 30,000.

Botafogo. from Copacabana (No. 523). Rua da Assembléia 10, (021) 2217 7575. www.rio.rj.gov.br/riotour

Fascinating collection of tropical plants at Sítio Roberto Burle Marx

Autódromo Internacional Nelson Piquet 4 Av Embaixador Abelardo Bueno, Jacarepaguá. Tel (021) 3410 6850. race days only.

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Casa do Pontal 8 Estrada do Pontal 3295. Tel (021) 2490 3278. 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun.

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& Grumari 9 Av Estado da Guanabara.

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A surfer at the picturesque and secluded Praia Prainha

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(4?3:@?,M,/0@,9,-,=, #4:/0,904=:B:@7/ ;=:-,-7D3,A0-00969:B9 -D,/4110=09?9,80 9 ,9@,=D ?309,A4 2,?:=> 9/=0:9L,7A0>,9/ 80=42:'0>;@..4-0.,80 ?3014=>?@=:;0,9>0A0=?: >,4749?:?30-,D>>@84924? B,>?308:@?3:1,2=0,? =4A0=?30D.,770/4?#4:/0 ,904=::=F#4A0=:1,9@,=DH The lush setting of the Mayrink Chapel, Parque Nacional da Tijuca @,9,-,=,80,9492F,2::9 :1?30$0,HB,>?309,80 8,492,?09,80/,1?0=?30 =09.3;,49?0=4.:7,@%,@9,D 24A09?:?30/:849,9?-,D-D 49/4209:@> =,E474,9>,9/4>

G ?30 ?3.09?@=D =,?30=8:=0,..@=,?0 Mayrink Chapel10,?@=492?30 Tel (021) 2492 2253. 8am– %30-,D4>17,960/-D#4:?: B:=6:1,9/4/:!:=?49,=4 6pm daily. Terra Brasil, (021) 4?>B0>?,9/4?0=N4?:4?>0,>? G :90:1?308:>? 2492 2252. ,9/09.:8;,>>0>.:@9?70>> 48;:=?,9? =,E474,9;,49?0=> 4>7,9/> >B077,>?3010==D ?307:A07D >><@47:>=0>?,@ :A0=492 ><8470>>< =,9?

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Marinha,AD :8 #0?4=:, Tiled map of park routes in ?30=B07769:B9 @7?@=,7 ;4.94.>;:?49 Alto da Boa Vista A40B;:49?>,=0?30:9, 09?0=49 ?307:=0>?,/, ,=?,?30'4>?,3490>,B4?3 %45@.,?:?30 1? 09?=:09?=:3,>,9@8-0= ,3490>0>?D70;,A474:9,9/ 83423%45@.,!0,6?4>0,>D :114909,@?4.,70C34-4?> ?300>,/:8;0=,/:= ?:20?7:>?49?30/09>01:74,20 49.7@/492,98;0=4,7 ,=20 8;0=:=>%,-70,77:1 >:>?4.6?:?308,49?=,47>,9/ -@47?49$,7A,/:=49 ,9/ B34.3:110=>;0.?,.@7,=-@? ,7>::110=>,.=@4>0:9?30 /:9:?2:B4?3:@?,2@4/041 ;7,99492:9?=066492::649 34>?:=4.?@2-:,? A,=40/A40B>:A0=?30.4?D $423?>B4?349?307:=0>?,/, ,/A,9.041,2@4/04>=0<@4=0/ B34.3B,>-@47?49 9:?30=,??=,.?4:990,=?30 927,9/49 ,9/?::6;,=? %45@.,49.7@/0Cascatinha do Taunay,B,?0=1,7790,=?30 7:=0>?,/,%45@.,4>?30 49(:=7/(,= %30.=@4>0 Museu Açude,8@>0@8 7,>?>,93:@=,9/,3,71,9/ 3:@>0/49?300::7:94,7 ;,>>0>>0A0=,749?0=0>?492 -@47/492?3,?:9.0>0=A0/,> >423?>,7:92?30B,D ?30=0>4/09.0:1?30>@..0>> %30 %:8:-48 1@7-@>490>>8,9#,D8@9/: 9?0=9,?4:9,74=;:=?4> ??:94/0,>?=:,D, G 7:.,?0/:9?307,=20>?:1 %308@>0@84>69:B9 ?304>7,9/>49?30-,DIlha 1:=4?>=09.3@?.3$;,94>3 do GovernadorB3470?30 ,9/!:=?@2@0>0?470>1=:8?30 ?49D Ilha Fiscal3:@>0>, ?3,9/ ?3.09?@=40>,9/ ;,7,.0-@47?49 ,??30 1:=,>?=:,D,>;0=>:9,7 =0<@0>?:18;0=:=:8 .:770.?4:9:1 =409?,7,=? !0/=:49?30>?D70:1, ?3.09?@=D=09.3.,>?70 Museu Açude %30.,>?70>34237423?>49.7@/0 Estrada da Açude 764, Alto da Boa 4?>0C.0;?4:9,7.,=A0/>?:90 Vista. Tel (021) 2492 2119. B:=6,9/.,>?4=:9B:=6,9/ 11am–5pm Wed–Mon. free ?30?@==0?>8:>,4.17::=B34.3 Cascatinha do Taunay, one of Parque on Thu. 4>8,/01=:8/4110=09?>;0.40> Nacional da Tijuca’s many waterfalls

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp366–9 and pp394–6

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Museu de Art Contemporârnea (MAC-Niterói), hovering like a flying saucer above Boa Viagem

:13,=/B::/7>:9:?0B:=?3D ,=0?30B,77;,49?492>-D ?3.09?@=D@?.3,=?4>? =0/0=4.:$?0.607,9/?30 ?:B0=.7:.6,9/>?,490/27,>> B49/:B>B34.3B0=0 48;:=?0/1=:8927,9/ Ilha Paquetá9:=?3:1?30 -,D4>,9:,>4>:1.,78 B30=09:.,=>,=0,77:B0/ 0==40>,9/3D/=:1:47>.=@4>0 @;?30-,D?:?304>7,9/ 1=:8?30>?,LK:/,>,=.,> 491=:9?:1?3034>?:=4.!=,L, )'=:>>492?30-,D4>?30 #4:4?0=N4=4/20:114.4,77D ?30!=0>4/09?0:>?,0$47A, =4/20B34.34>:90:1?30 7:920>?49?30B:=7/,? 8470> 68%30;=:50.? B,>149,9.0/-D=4?,49,9/ .:9>?=@.?4:9-02,949 49?30;=0>09.0:1"@009 74E,-0?3 Espaço Cultural da Marinha Av Alfredo Agache, Centro. Tel (021) 2104 6025. noon–5pm Tue–Sun. Ilha Fiscal Baía de Guanabara. Tel (021) 2233 9165. only for tours at 1pm, 2:30pm & 4pm Thu–Sun. Marina da Glória Av Infante Dom Henrique, Glória. Tel (021) 2205 6716.

Santa Cruz,9/?30Museu de Art Contemporârnea

4?0=N4%30:=?,70E,/0 $,9?,=@E$,9?,=@E:=? >4?>:9,=:.6D:@?.=:;5@>? ,=4:.,>7460?:5:60?3,? :@?>4/0?30.4?D,9/2@,=/> ?30-0>??3492,-:@?4?0=N4 ?3009?=,9.0?:@,9,-,=, 4>4?>A40B,.=:>>?30-,D?: ,D!,=?>:1?301:=?/,?0 1=:8?30 ?3.09?@=DB309 #4:/0,904=:,9/4?4>?=@0 ?3,??30.4?D>;:;@7,=4?D3,> ?30=09.3-@47?,948;=: >3:B9,/0.7490/@0?:4?> A4>0/1:=?414.,?4:9?:;=:?0.? ;=:C484?D?:=,E47>14=>? ?30.4?D%30>?=@.?@=02=0B @9?474?-0.,80?308:>? .4?D :?3.4?40>3:B0A0= 48;:=?,9?1:=?=0>>49=,E47 /0A07:;0/>48@7?,90:@>7D ?307;0/;=:?0.?4?0=N41=:8 ,9/,>?3010==40>2:?1,>?0= ?B:49A,>4:9>?3014=>?:1 ,9/8:=0=074,-704?0=N4 -0.,80,;:;@7,==0>4/09?4,7 B34.3.,801=:8?30@?.3 :;?4:91:=;0:;70B:=649249 49 ,9/?30>0.:9/ 1=:8?30=09.349 /:B9?:B9 #4: %30 =4?4>3;=010==0/4?0=N4 %30>?@99492@>0@ /0 =?:9?08;:=J=90, ?: #4:,9/49 1:@9/0/ :9?08;:=,=D =?@>0@8 ?30 #4:=4.60?,9/?370?4. 7@-?3,?4>>?477,.?4A0?30=0 ,;;0,=>?:3:A0=,-:A0?30 ?:/,D!=,4,/0$K:=,9.4>.: 90423-:=3::/:1:,'4,208 %30477@>4:9.:80>1=:84?> 49@,9,-,=,,D4>?30 >709/0=-,>0;477,=B34.34> .4?D>,9>B0=?::;,.,-,9, :97D1?849/4,80?0= -0,.3-@?1:=?308:>?;,=? 9,@2@=,?0/49 4? 4>9:?4/0,71:=>B488492 B,>?30-=,49.347/:1?30 4?0=N4>-0??0=-0,.30>G Camboinhas Itaipu,9/ ,..7,480/ =,E474,9,=.34?0.? Itacoatiara G740:9?30 >.,=4080D0=

?>0C34-4?>,=0-,>0/:9?30 ?7,9?4..:,>?,9/,=0A0=D ;:;@7,=:9B00609/> ;40.0>:1=,E474,9,=? /:9,?0/-D?30084909?,=? %30?B:8:>?;:;@7,= >423?>49?30.4?D,=0?30 .:770.?:=:K:$,??,8494 48;:>492 Fortaleza de %308:>?09.3,9?492 >;0.?,.703:B0A0=4> ?30A40B1=:849>4/0?30 8@>0@8,?/@>6B309 #4:>7423?>?B496701=:8 ,.=:>>?30-,D 475,000. www.niteroiturismo.com.br

Fortaleza de Santa Cruz Estrada Gaspar Dutra, Jurujuba. Tel (021) 2711 0462. noon–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat & Sun. Museu de Art

Contemporârnea

A panoramic view of the Marina da Glória, Baía de Guanabara

Mirante da Boa Viagem, Niterói. Tel (021) 2620 2400. 10am– 6pm Tue–Sun.

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Rio Sul, one of the two giant malls dominating Rio’s shopping scene

OPENING HOURS

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H. Stern, offering a wide range of traditional and modern jewelry

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ARTS & CRAFTS MARKETS

".+(+9:'4*359:,'35;9 '8:9'4*)8',:93'81+:/4 /5 /9:.+/66/+'/8:'1/4- 62')++<+8?!;4*'?/4'4* SHOES '85;4*8'C' +4+8'2 9D8/5 /4 6'4+3' ".+,'/8=./). 8'@/2/954+5,:.+2'8-+9: ,/89:(+-'4/4 8;49,853 3'4;,'):;8+895,9.5+9 '3:5 63'4*/9:.+6+8,+): '4*,55:=+'8/4:.+=582* 62')+:56/)1;695;<+4/8 The famous Blue Man line of <+4:.+25)'29;6+83'81+: 6'/4:/4-9588'@/2/'4'8:9 /92/1+2?:59:5)1,'9./54 '4*)8',:=5819 beachwear ".+8+'8+'4;3(+8 '(2+,2/6,2569'4* 5,96+)/'2/@+*'8:9'4* :.+:=5359:,'35;9 BIKINIS & BEACHWEAR )8',:99:58+9:.85;-. (8'4*9'8+'<'/'4'9 ".+-/829,8536'4+3' 5;::.+)/:?/4)2;*/4- '4* 8+4*.'".+ 359:656;2'89:58+9 56')'('4''4*'88'.'<+ :.59+,5;4*/4:.+ /5 .+26+*3'1+:.+(/1/4/' :.':3'4;,'):;8+ !;2'4*'88' !.566/49?3(525,:.+)/:?92/,+9:?2+ =+223'*+'4* +4:+83'229".+8+/9 !.56996+)/'2/@/4-/4(/1/4/9 8+'954'(2?68/)+* '295'-55*9+2+):/54 9=/39;8,'4*(+').=+'8 2+':.+89.5+9'8+6'8: /456')'('4'359:2? )'4(+,5;4*'225<+8 /5 5,:.+Mr. Cat).'/4 '254-:.+./9:58/) Flip-flops +96+)/'22?/456')'('4' :.+89:58+9=58:. <+4/*' 599' 6'4+3''4*'22:.+(/- ).+)1/4-/4)2;*+Andarella !+4.58'*+56')'('4' 3'229'35;94'3+9/4 '4*':+22/ 9/:;':+*(+./4*56')'('4' (/1/4/=+'8/4)2;*+Blue Man '2')+5:+2 4 6'4+3':.+ MUSIC Bum-Bum'4*Kitanga !:+849:58+.'9'-55* %.':?5;=+'8:5:.+(+'). 9+2+):/54'9*5+9Brasil & Cia %./2+4554+3;9/)).'/4 /9','9./549:':+3+4:/4 /5 95*+9/-499.'6+9'4*)52589 *53/4':+9/4 /5953+3;9/) 9:58+9'8+(+::+8:.'45:.+89 ).'4-+=/:.+<+8?9+'954 FNAC3+-'9:58+/4'88' '4?9:58+95,,+8'96+)/'2 !.566/4-+4:+8.'9'<+8? 2/4+,58
DIRECTORY SHOPPING MALLS

JEWELRY

Barra Shopping Center

Amsterdam Sauer

Av das Américas 4666, Barra da Tijuca. Tel (021) 3089 1100. www.barrashopping. com.br

Fashion Mall Estrada da Gávea 899, São Conrado. Tel (021) 2111 4444. www.scfashionmall. com.br

Rio Sul Rua Lauro Muller 116, Botafogo. Tel (021) 3527 7257. www.riosul.com.br

Rua Garcia d’Ávila 105, Ipanema. Map 2 A4. Tel (021) 2512 1132.

H. Stern Rua Garcia d’Ávila 113, Ipanema. Map 2 A4. Tel (021) 2106 0000.

BIKINIS & BEACHWEAR Blue Man Rio Sul, Botafogo. Tel (021) 2541 6896.

Bum-Bum Rua Visconde de Pirája 151, Ipanema. Map 2 B4. Tel (021) 2521 2859.

Kitanga Rua Santa Clara 70 Ioja 204, Copacabana. Map 3 D2. Tel (021) 2549 9020. One of several branches.

SHOES Andarella Av Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 706, Copacabana. Map 3 D3. Tel (021) 2257 1729. www.andarella.com.br One of several branches.

Mr. Cat Rua Visconde de Pirája 414, Ipanema. Map 2 B4. Tel (021) 2227 6521. One of several branches.

MUSIC FNAC Barra Shopping Center. Tel (021) 2109 2000.

Modern Sound Rua Barata Ribeiro 502, Copacabana. Map 3 D2. Tel (021) 2548 5005.

Saraíva Rio Sul, Rua Lauro Muller 116, Botafogo. Tel (021) 2507 9500.

ARTS & CRAFTS MARKETS Brasil & Cia Rua Maria Quitéria 27, Ipanema. Map 2 A4. Tel (021) 2267 4603.

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Colorfully costumed samba performers in the floor show at Plataforma 1

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The Pe de Moleque group playing at the Carioca de Gema bar in Lapa

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A football match in progress at the Estádio Maracanã

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An aerial view of the Helisight heliport at Morro da Urca

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DIRECTORY INFORMATION

Vivo Rio

Jornal do Brasil

Av Infante Dom Henrique 85, Flamengo. Tel (021) 2240 2303.

www.jbonline.terra. com.br

O Globo www.oglobo.globo.com

BOOKING TICKETS Ingresso

SAMBA, BOSSA NOVA & GAFIEIRA Bar do Tom Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Leblon. Tel (021) 2274 4022.

www.ingresso.com.br

Ticketmaster www.ticketmaster.com.br

Ticketronics www.ticketronics.net

MAJOR VENUES Ballroom Rua Humaitá 110. Tel (021) 2537 7600.

Canecão

Bip Bip Rua Almirante Gonçalves 50, Copacabana. Map 2 C4. Tel (021) 2267 9696.

Carioca da Gema Rua Mem de Sá 79, Lapa. Map 5 D5. Tel (021) 2221 0043.

Centro Cultural Carioca

Av Venceslau Braz 215, Botafogo. Tel (021) 2105 2000.

Rua do Teatro 37, Praça Tiradentes, Centro. Map 4 C4. Tel (021) 2252 6468.

Cidade da Música

Cordão da Bola Preta

O Trevo das Palmeiras, Barra.

Rua Treze de Maio 13, Cinelândia. Map 5 D4. Tel (021) 2240 8049.

Cidade do Rock Av Salvador Allende, Barra da Tijuca.

Circo Voador Rua dos Arcos, Lapa. Map 5 D5. Tel (021) 2533 0354.

Claro Hall Av Ayrton Senna 3000, Barra da Tijuca. Tel (0300) 789 6846.

Noites Carioca Av Pasteur 520, Praia Vermelha, Urca. Tel (021) 2546 8400.

Plataforma 1 Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Leblon. Tel (021) 2274 4022.

Praça da Apoteose Rua Marques de Sapucai, Cidade Novo. Map 4 A5. Tel (021) 2217 7575.

Dama da Noite Rua Gomes Freire 773, Lapa. Map 4 C5. Tel (021) 2508 6219.

Estudantina Praça Tiradentes 79, Centro. Map 4 C4. Tel (021) 2232 1149.

Mistura Fina

League of Samba Schools (LIESA) Av Rio Branco 4. Map 5 D2. Tel (021) 2253 7409.

Academia da Cahaça Rua Conde Bernadotte 26, Leblon. Tel (021) 2239 1542. Av Armando Lombardi 800, Barra. Tel (021) 2492 1159.

Teatro João Caetano

Cidade do Samba

Praça Tiradentes, Centro. Map 4 C4. Tel (021) 2221 1223.

Rua R. Correa 60, Gamboa. Tel (021) 2247 2330.

Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil Rua Primeiro de Março Tel (021) 3808 2020.

Av Vieira Souto 110, Ipanema. Map 2 B5. Tel (021) 2523 0085.

CINEMA

Bar Lagoa

Cinemark

Av Epitácio Pessoa 1674, Lagoa. Map 2 A4. Tel (021) 2523 1468.

Av das Americas, Barra da Tijuca. Map 5 D5. Tel (021) 2494 5007.

Bar Luiz

CLASSICAL MUSIC, OPERA & DANCE

Rua da Carioca 39, Centro. Map 5 D4. Tel (021) 2262 6900.

Caneco 70 Av Delfim Moreira 1026, Leblon. Map 1 A5. Tel (021) 2294 1180.

Cervantes Av Prado Júnior 335, Copacabana. Map 3 F1. Tel (021) 2275 6147.

Garota de Ipanema Rua Vinícius de Moraes 49, Ipanema. Map 2 A5. Tel (021) 2523 3787.

Lamas

SAMBA SCHOOLS

THEATER

66, Centro. Map 5 E3.

Rio Scenarium

Rua Vinícius de Moraes 39, Ipanema. Map 2 B4. Tel (021) 2287 1497.

Rua Raul Pompéia 102, Copacabana. Map 2 C4. Tel (021) 2247 8342.

Barril 1800

Hipódromo

Vinícius

Rua Raul Pompéia 92, Copacabana. Map 2 C4. Tel (021) 2513 4993.

La Girl BARS & CLUBS

Av Borges de Medeiros 3207, Jardim Botanico. Map 1 C1. Tel (021) 2537 2844.

Rua do Lavradio 20, Lapa. Map 4 C4. Tel (021) 2233 3239.

Le Boy

Praça Santos Dumont 108, Gávea. Tel (021) 2274 9720. Rua Marques de Abrantes 18, Flamengo. Tel (021) 2556-0799.

Lord Jim Rua Paul Redfern 63, Ipanema. Map 2 C4. Tel (021) 2259 3047.

GAY & LESBIAN Dama de Ferro Rua Vinícius de Moraes 288, Ipanema. Map 2 B4. Tel (021) 2247 2330.

Sala Cecília Meireles Largo da Lapa 47. Map 5 D5. Tel (021) 2224 3913.

Theatro Municipal Av Rio Branco. Map 5 D4. Tel (021) 2299 1711.

HELICOPTER TOURS Helisight Rua Conde de Bernadotte 26. Map 1 A4. Tel (021) 2511 2141 (weekdays), (021) 2542 7895 (Sat, Sun & public hols).

SOCCER Estádio Maracanã Rua Eurico Rabelo, São Cristóvão.

HORSE RACING Jóquei Clube Brasileiro Rua Jardim Botânico 1003. Map 1 A2, 1 A3, 1 B2, 1 B3. Tel (021) 2512 9988.

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Pedra Azul, a spectacular granite monolith in Espírito Santo

Rolling hills and calm waters of the untouched coast of Costa Verde, Rio de Janeiro state

104

S O U T H E A S T

B R A Z I L

Exploring Rio de Janeiro & Espirito Santo Several towns pepper the coast of Rio de Janeiro state. Among these, Buzios draws the most visitors and has the best hotels and restaurants, while the colonial town of Paraty, nestled between the coastal mountains and an islandstrewn sea, is emerging as a center for the arts. North of Rio is the imperial city of Petropolis. Brazil's oldest national park, Itatiaia, lies just off the interstate between Rio and Sao Paulo. Ilha Grande, off the coast of Rio, and the resorts of northern Espirito Santo are relatively untouched. Vitoria, the state's capital, dates to the 1550s. To its south is the beach town of Guarapari, while inland is the dramatic peak of Pedra Azul.

Statue of King Dom Pedro II, the founder of the magnificent city of Petropolis

Lush Mata Atlantica in Parque Nacional do Itatiaia, Rio de Janeiro

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Towns & Cities Angra dos Reis Q Guarapari O Kaunas O Paraty pp!06-108 O Petropolis ppl 12-15 0 Teresopolis 0 Vitoria (D National Parks & Areas of Natural Beauty Buzios ppl 16-1 7 Q Ilha Grande O Parque Nacional da Serra dos Orgaos O Parque Nacional do Itatiaia O Pedra Azul ®

For additional map symbols see back flap

SEE ALSO 1

Where to Stay pp370-72

1

Where to Eat pp396-7

Agulba

9,100ft (2, 787 m)

fsOpuntadeJuatinga Trindadeo

RIO

DE

J A N E I R O

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E S P I R I T O

S A N T O

GETTING AROUND The Rio and Espirito Santo coasts are served by the well signposted BR-101 interstate highway. Rio de Janeiro state has a good interstate bus service to all the beach towns. The Mata Atlantica, however, is best visited on a tour or with a hired car, as are the national parks of Itatiaia and Serra dos Orgaos. To visit northern and central Espirito Santo, visitors will need their own transport. Ilha Grande can be reached by passenger ferry twice a day. KEY

Cachoeirode ItapemirimQ

|COnha

Conceigao de Macabu

Colorful boats anchored on the Paraty shore

105

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Sturdy iron bars of the Casa de Cadeia, a former prison

Casa de Cadeia Rua Travessa Santa Rita. Tel (024) 3371 1056. 9am–5pm daily.

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Paraty’s whitewashed buildings reflected in the placid waters at the quay For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp370–72 and pp396–7

Statue of St. Benedict, Nossa Senhora do Rosário e São Benedito

Nossa Senhora do Rosário e São Benedito Rua Tenente Francisco Antônio. 1–5pm daily.

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Nossa Senhora das Dores Rua Fresca at Rua Beco da Capela. 8am–noon & 2pm–5pm Thu.

dos Remédios Praça Monsenhor Helio Pires. 8am–noon & 2–5pm Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun.

Rio de Janeiro. 30,000. Rua Jango Pádua. Av Roberto Silveira, (024) 3371 1897. Carnaval (Feb), Festas Juninas (Jun), Festa Literária Internacional de Paraty (Aug), Festival da Pinga (Aug), Festa da Nossa Senhora dos Remédios (Sep), Festa de Divino Espírito Santo (Dec). www.paratyvirtual.com.br

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Exploring Around Paraty

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Rio de Janeiro state. Paraty Tours, Av Roberto Silveira 11, (024) 3371 1327. to islands from Paraty pier. from Paraty (every 45 minutes for Paraty-Mirim & Trindade). www.paratytours. com.br Praia do Jabaquara, Praia do Pontal, Paraty-Mirim, Trindade.

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Secluded scenic Praia de Fora near Trindade

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp370–72 and pp396–7

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp370–72 and pp396–7

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Steep mountain ridges in Parque Nacional do Itatiaia, Brazil’s oldest national park

Rio de Janeiro. from Resende, then taxi. Centro Excursionista Brasileiro, Av Almirante Barroso 2, (021) 2252 9844, Rio. Ralph Salgueiro, (021) 3351 1823. Hotel Donati, (021) 3352 1110. www.hoteldonati.com.br

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Trail through the verdant rainforests of Parque Nacional do Itatiaia

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Palácio de Cristal Rua Alfredo Pachá, Centro. Tel (024) 2247 3721. 9am–6:30pm Tue–Sun.

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500 500

PETRÓPOLIS *<*-.$*7=8<>687= *=.-;*5-.$J8!.-;8-. 5,I7=*;* !*5H,28-.;2<=*5 !*5H,28 69.;2*5 !*5H,28 #28.0;8 ">2=*7-271*

The Norman-style architecture of the Quitandinha palace complex

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Entrance

MUSEUM GUIDE

Ground floor

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Crown Jewels Cetro Sala de Estado

Elegant Neo-Classical façade of the Palácio Imperial

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp370–72 and pp396–7

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Rua da Imperatriz 220, Petrópolis. Tel (024) 2237 8000. museum: 11am–6pm Tue– Sun; sound & light show: 8pm Thu, Fri & Sat.free entry to the garden from 8am–5pm on Sun. www.museuimperial.gov.br

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Rio de Janeiro. 140,000. from Rio de Janeiro City. Centro Turistico, (021) 2644 4095.

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Orquidário Aranda Rua João Daudt de Oliveira s/n. Tel (021) 2742 0628. 9am–4:30pm Mon–Fri.

","*('('+"(/#'," ,,((&& *(&," )%#'3(*#+,(.3( First floor Sala do Senado

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Rio de Janeiro. from Rio de Janeiro. (021) 2152 1100. 8am–5pm Tue–Sun.

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Dom Pedro I’s Room Room of His Majesty

KEY

Princesa Isabel’s Room

The Dining Room

Lobby

The Music Room

The Empress’s Sewing Room

The Royal Costumes & Scepter

The Empress’s Piano Room

The Imperial Throne

Saleta

Dom Pedro II’s Study

Senate Room

The Princesses’s Room

Other Exhibition Space

Imperial Brazilian Jewelry

Non-Exhibition Space

Dedo de Deus (God’s Finger), Parque Nacional da Serra dos Órgãos

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

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Terceira Ponte Bridge connecting Vila Velha to Vitória

Espírito Santo. 2,000. from Vitória. Praça Jerônimo Monteiro, (027) 3361 2322 (ext: 273). www. guarapari.com.br

Espírito Santo. 292,000. from Rio. Av Nossa Senhora de Penha 714, (027) 3380 2232. Carnaval (Dec).

63B5,72$1726%86,(67%($&+ 5(6257,6)5,1*('%<'2=(162) /21*:+,7(%($&+(6(23/( )520,1$6(5$,6586+'2:1 21:((.(1'672%$6.217+( 6$1'<%($&+(62)8$5$3$5, 6$,'72+$9(0,/'<5$',2$&7,9( +($/,1*3523(57,(6 +(%(67 %($&+,6Praia do Morro1257+ 2)7+(&,7<Praia do Meio$/62 727+(1257++$652&.322/6 ),//(':,7+&/($5:$7(5$1' ,6*22')256125.(/,1* 8$5$3$5,2))(56/,*+7 $'9(1785($&7,9,7,(668&+ $65$33(/,1*5$)7,1*$1' 620(2)7+(%(67',9,1*,1 7+(287+($67 +(72:1$/62 +$6$/,9(/<1,*+7/,)(6&(1(

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287+2)",/+$"(/+$ Praia de Costa,6127$6 %86<$%($&+$6$0%85B %87,6$*22'3/$&(72*2 %2'<685),1* Manguezal de Vitória 6,78$7('1257+($672)",7C5,$ ,67+(/$5*(67675(7&+2)85%$1 0$1*529(6,1287+0(5,&$ +(0$1*529(6$5($1,0325 7$171856(5<)250$5,1(/,)( $1'&$1%(9,6,7('%<%2$7 $/21*6,'($180%(52)7+( %$<6:,/'(5,6/$1'6 Convento da Nossa

Senhora da Penha Vila Velha, Vitória. Tel (027) 3329 0420. 5:30am–4:45pm Mon–Fri, 4:30am–4:45pm Sun.

Sunbathers on Praia do Morro in Guarapari For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp370–72 and pp396–7

Manguezal de Vitória Santuário de Santo Antônio. Av Dario Lourenço de Souza, (027) 3222 3810.

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Espírito Santo. from Vitória. Parque Estadual da Pedra Azul, (027) 3248 1156. 8am–5:30pm daily. 9am & 1:30pm onward daily. www.pedraazul.com.br

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Dramatic Pedra Azul, a granite monolith

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Sand dunes flanking the sleepy fishing town of Itaúnas along the Rio Itaúnas

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A breathtaking view of mauve ipê flowers in full bloom outside Diamantina

Enchanting Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, towering above the colonial town of Ouro Preto

122

S O U T H E A S T

B R A Z I L

F

Exploring Minas Gerais

Belo Horizonte, the capital of Minas Gerais, is the focus of life here. Most colonial mining towns, including Ouro Preto and Congonhas, lie immediately to its south. Mariana, another colonial city south of Belo Horizonte, is still a working mining center. Farther south, and a day's drive from the capital is the hilly Serra da Canastra National Park. Northern Minas is much wilder, with large tracts of cerrado forest in the Serra do Cipo and around Diamantina. The extreme north is arid, dominated by the sertao, a region of scrub and grassland, whose distinct culture and language was mythologized in the most famous of all Brazilian novels, Grande Sertao: Veredas, by Joao Guimaraes Rosa (seep31). SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

KEY

Towns & Cities Belo Horizonte Q Diamantina O Mariana 0 Ouro Preto ppl26-8 O Sao Joao del Rei O Tiradentes O National Parks & Areas of Natural Beauty Parque Nacional Serra da Canastra O Parque Nacional Serra do Cipo O Historic Buildings Basilica do Senhor BomJesus de Matosinhos, Congonhas PP130-31 0

Ouro Preto, the architecturally stunning colonial city in Minas Gerais

For additional map symbols see back flap

Painting inside Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Diamantina

M I N A S

G E R A I S

123

SEE ALSO

Sunset in the cerrado landscape of Serra da Canastra

GETTING AROUND Belo Horizonte has two airports and is connected several times a day with all the Brazilian state capitals. There are few other airports in the state and transport beyond the capital is limited to buses, which are generally comfortable and frequent. Another option is to hire a car. Driving is possible during the day, even though many of the smaller roads are blighted with enormous potholes.

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Old fazenda in the beautiful village of Biribiri near Diamantina

48,000. Largo Dom João 134, (038) 3531 9176. Praça Juscelino Kubitschek 25, (038) 3531 8060. www.diamantina.com.br

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'9'*'258/')549/9:/4-5, :=5.5;9+95456659/:+9/*+9 )544+):+*(?'4+4)259+* (8/22/'4:(2;+9+)54*9:58+? Casa de Chica da Silva 6'99'-+='? #.+(;/2*/4- Praça Lobo Mesquita 266. /945:56+4:5:.+6;(2/) noon–5:30pm Tue–Sat, #.+8+'8+9+<+8'2).;8).+9 9am–noon Sun. /4/'3'4:/4'#.+52*+9:/9 :.+ Nossa Senhora do Rosário Museu Casa do Diamante Rua Direita 14. Tel (038) 3531 /4:.+97;'8+5,:.+9'3+ 1382. noon–5:30pm Tue–Sat, 4'3+'9.58:*/9:'4)+:5 9am–noon Sun. :.+458:.+'9:5,:.+ 8'D' ;+88':='9(;/2:'4*;9+* Museu de Juscelino Kubitschek (?:.++492'<+*(2')1)53 Rua São Francisco 241. Tel (038) 3;4/:?'4*:.+)/:?96558 3531 3607. 8am–noon & 2–6pm +>::5/:/9'458/-/4'2 :. Tue–Sat, 9am–noon Sun. )+4:;8?,5;4:'/4=.59+ Nossa Senhora do Carmo =':+8965;:9'8+('98+2/+,9 Rua do Carmo. 8am–2pm & 2– 5, ,8/)'4.+'*9 6pm Tue–Sun, 9am–noon Sun. (25)195;:./9:.+ Nossa Senhora do Rosário 96+):');2'8 Nossa Senhora Largo do Rosário. 8am–noon & do Carmo;/2:(+:=++4 2–6pm Tue–Sat, 9am–noon Sun. '4* /:='9:.+ :5=498/).+9:).;8). '4*'::+4*+*(?:.+ +2/:+=./:+)533;4/:? :/98+3'81'(2+)./+,2? ,58:.+/4:+8/586'/4: /4-9(?59E"5'8+9*+ 8';05,8538'-' 58:;-'2 8';059 =58192/+/43'4?5, :.+:5=49).;8).+9 (;::.59+.+8+'8+./9 ,/4+9:#.+)+/2/4-6'/4: /4-9'8+<+8?9:8/1/4- +'8:.+(')15,:.+ ).;8)./9'658:8'/:5, :.+ 856.+: 2/0'. '9)+4*/4-:5.+'<+4 /4').'8/5:5,,/8+ #.+ Casa de Chica da Silva'93'8::5=4 .5;9+54+(25)195;:. 5,:.+599'"+4.58' *5'835/9,'35;9 ,'8358+,58/:9,583+8 Nave, Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp372–3 and pp398–9

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3,000,000. Aloturismo (Belotur’s hotline), (031) 3277 9777. Carnaval (Feb/Mar). www.pbh.gov.br

Magnificent waterfall at Parque Nacional Serra do Cipó

from Belo Horizonte to Jaboticatubas, or Santana do Riacho. Secretária do Turismo, (031) 3718 7228. Tel (031) 3718 7129. 8am–5pm daily. Cipó Veraneio Hotel, Rodovia MG-10, Serra do Cipó, (031) 3718 7000. www.cipoveraneiohotel.com.br

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#.+)5254/'2:5=49 5, "'('8B'+:E '4* "'4:';/@':5 :.++'9:5,+25 58/@54:+2/+2+99 :.'4.'2,'4.5;89 Igreja de São Francisco de Assis *8/<+'='?22 Francisco de Assis 68+9+8<+,/4+'857;+ =./).='9(;/2:/4 '9' ).;8).+9'4*9:8++:95, :. 9+8/+95,6'8'(52/)'8).+9/4 )54)8+:+'4*.'9'=54*+8,;2 )+4:;8?:5=4.5;9+9 9+49+5,2/-.:'4*96')+4 Igreja de São :.+5;:9/*+='229'8+'9+8/+9 Francisco de Assis 5, 58 58:;-;+9+ Av Otacilio Negrão de Lima, (2;+:/2+9*+6/):/4-9)+4+9 ,853:.+2/,+5,":8'4)/9'4* Pampulha. Tel (031) 3427 1644. 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, 6'/4:+*(?8'@/29,58+359: 9am–1pm Sun. 5*+84/9:'8:/9:'4*/*5 Museu Mineiro 58:/4'8/ A :.+8 Av João Pinheiro 342. Tel (031) /3658:'4:(;/2*/4-9/4:.+ 3269 1168. 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, '36;2.')5362+>/4)2;*+ 10am–4pm Sat & Sun. :.+*'4)+.'22Casa do Baile

Igreja de São Francisco de Assis in Pampulha, Belo Horizonte

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A cluster of colonial buildings in hilly Ouro Preto town

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STAR SIGHTS

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp372–3 and pp398–9

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Minas Gerais. 65,000. from Belo Horizonte. Praça Tiradentes 41, (031) 3559 3269. Carnaval (Feb/ Mar). Casa dos Contos Rua São José 12. Tel (031) 3551 1444. Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Carmo Rua B. Mosqueira. Tel (031) 3551 3282.

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Exploring Ouro Preto

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Ceiling painting by Athayde in Igreja de São Francisco de Assis For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp372–3 and pp398–9

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View of Mariana and the twin churches from Basílica de São Pedro dos Clérigos

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STAR SIGHTS

The Prophet Habacuc The Capture of Christ The Last Supper

Jeremias

The Crucifixion

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus de Matosinhos, Congonhas. Basílica from Av Júlia Kubitschek 1892. FUMCULT, Praça Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 135, (031) 3713 3100 (ext: 114). 8–11am Mon–Fri, 8am–9pm Sat, 7am–10pm Sun. 9am– 1pm Sun. Jubileu do Senhor Bom Jesus do Matosinhos (Sep 7–14). www.cidadeshistoricas. art.br/congonhas

Façade of the church inspired by and modeled on the Santuário do Bom Jesus in Braga, Portugal, with the prophets at the entrance

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Colonial Portuguese houses lining the cobbled streets of Tiradentes

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp372–3 and pp398–9

Matriz de Santo Antônio Rua da Camara. 8am–5pm daily. Dec–Mar: 8pm Fri & Sun, 8:30pm Sat (sound & light show). Museu Padre Toledo Rua Pedro Toledo. Tel (032) 3355 1549. 9am–4pm Tue–Sun.

Chafariz de São José, an 18thcentury fountain in Tiradentes

79,000. Maria Fumaça (only between São João del Rei & Tiradentes). Fri, Sat, Sun & public hols, (032) 3371 8485. from Tiradentes. Rua Padre José Maria, Praça Frei Orlando (032) 3372 7338. Carnaval Mardi Gras (Feb), Semana de Inconfidência (Apr). www.saojoaodelreisite.com.br

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de Assis Praça Frei Orlando. Tel (032) 3372 3110. 8am–5:30pm Mon–Sat, 7am–4pm Sun. Museu Ferroviária Estacão Ferroviária, Rua Antônio Rocha. Tel (032) 3371 8485. 9–11am & 1–5pm Tue–Sun.

Giant anteater in the Parque Nacional Serra da Canastra

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Granite peaks looming over the cerrado and pasture land beyond, Parque Nacional Serra da Canastra

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Carnaval dancers participate in the final night of the São Paulo parade

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9,000,000. 19 miles (30 km) NE of center. 9 miles (4 km) S of center. Praça Antônio Prado 9, (011) 3104 6898. Festas Juninas (Jun), Bienal Internacional de São Paulo (Sep–Nov), Festa da Primavera (Sep). www. cidadedesaopaulo.com

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Praça da Sé. Map 2 D3. Praça da Sé. 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. noon–2pm Mon–Fri, 10am–noon Sun. Museu Padre Anchieta Tel (011) 3105 6899.

Exterior of São Paulo Catedral Metropolitana, Praça da Sé

7am, 1pm & 6pm Mon–Fri, 6am Sat, 8:30am & 10am Sun. www. mosteiro.org.br

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p374 and pp399–401

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View of the exterior of Theatro Municipal

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Rua da Consolação 585. Map 1 C3. Tel (011) 3256 5356. Anhangabaú. 7am–8pm.

,:0.5,+)@(?04030(56 ,33;/,(9*/0;,*;6-;/, (;,+9(3,;967630;(5(;/, .9,1(+(65:63(FE60:( :0403(9-<:0656-<967,(5 :;@3,: "64,6-;/, ;/ *,5;<9@4(:;,9,5,+0;6 (30?;6: ),:; 9,30.06<:7(05;05.:(+695;/, 3,::,+ "(*9(4,5;*/(7,3 The 1920s interior of Mosteiro São Bento, with its painted ceiling

Praça Ramos de Azevedo. Map 1 C2. Tel (011) 3223 3022. Anhangabaú. www. theatromunicipal.com.br

Rua Álvares Penteado 112. Map 1 C3. Tel (011) 3113 3651. São Bento/Anhangabaú. 10am–9pm Tue–Sat, 10am–8pm Sun. www.bb.com.br/appbb/ portal/bb/ctr/sp/index.jsp

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! Av Ipiranga 344. Map 1 B2, 1 B3. Tel (011) 3257 6566. 8am–10pm daily. República.

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! Rua João Bricola 24. Map 1 C3. Tel (011) 3249 7180. São Bento. 10am–5pm Mon–Fri.

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Entrance

Octagonal exhibition hall

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Auditorium First floor

STAR FEATURES

Composição Tropical Caipira Picando Fumo

GALLERY GUIDE %"&+ ,0" /-".*+"+0 ,))" 0&,+&/,+0%"#&./0#),,. 3&0%$))".&"/%,1/&+$0%",!".+&/0 ,))" 0&,+'1/0,2" 0%"*&+"+0.+ ".6&)&+ 0% "+01.5-&+0&+$/+! 0%"*,."." "+03,.(/#)+(0%&/$))".53%&)"/ 1)-01."/5 ."+ %.0&/0//1 %/.&/0&!"&)),), 1-5-.,*&+"+0 !&/-)5%"$.,1+!#),,.&/!"2,0"!0,0"*-,..5"4%&&0&,+/ +!)/,%/,,(/%,-+! #8

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p374 and pp399–401

3

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

,.0.5&+$ )&)3,*+ &+0.,-& )/"0 0&+$0%&/-&+0&+$ 5+&0)#00& 7 &/ #&+""4*-)" ,#.6&)&+ ,!".+&/*

Praça da Luz 2, Jardim da Luz. Map 1 C1. Tel (011) 3229 9844. Luz. 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. www. saopaulo.sp.gov.br

Third floor

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KEY

First floor, with a temporary exhibition area

Brazilian Painting

Brazilian Sculpture

Landscapes (1850–1930)

Art by European Visitors

French Sculpture Yard

Temporary Exhibition Gallery

Brazilian Contemporary Art

Photography Exhibition

Brazilian Constructivism

Non-Exhibition Space

$ ! & % $ % # +

Largo General Osório 66. Map 1 C1. Tel (011) 3337 0185. Luz. 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. free admission on Sat.

Elegant façade of the Mosteiro da Luz, housing the Museu Arte Sacra

8,>?0=>>@.3,>090/4?: ,74C?:,9/0>?=0?3,D/0 Av Tiradentes 676. Tel (011) 3227 !1>;0.4,7>429414.,9.04> 7687. Tiradentes. 11am– ?30:90?3,?/0;4.?>",/=0 7pm Tue–Sun. http://artesacra. 9.340?,?,8492,B47/:.07:? sarasa.com.br B4?3?30.=:>>,>D8-:7 :1?300>@4?1:@9/0=:1$I: !1?09:A0=7::60/-DA4>4?:=> ",@7:>84>>4:9?:?3049/42 ?34>>8,778@>0@8-:,>?>:90 09:@>=,E474,9> :1?301490>?.:770.?4:9>:1 =07424:@>,=?41,.?>49?30 80=4.,> %300C34-4?>,=0 3:@>0/49,7,=20B492:1, Praça da Luz 1. Tel (0800) 550 121. /4>?492@4>30/.:7:94,7-@47/ Luz. 492?300,=7D ?3.09?@=D :>?04=:/,@E#0>?1@7,9/ >0=090?3009?4=0.:8;70C4> !90:18:/0=9=,E47> ;=:84909?>D8-:7>:1 ,;0,.01@73,A091=:8?30 1=090?4..3,:>:1$I:",@7: 49/@>?=4,7;=:2=0>>$I: ",@7:>=,47B,D>?,?4:9B,> %308@>0@8>;=4.070>> :-50.?>,9/,=?41,.?>49.7@/0 -@47?49 %30/0>429 7,A4>38:9>?=,9.0>.0=0 :1?30>?,JI:/,@E4>, 8:94,7A0>>07>0..70>4,>?4.,7 3:8,20?:?309274>3=,47 50B07=D,9/.3@=.3,7?,= =:,/,9/484?,?0>?30 ;40.0> !1;,=?4.@7,=9:?04> '4.?:=4,90.70.?4.>?D70 ?30>?,?@,=DB4?3;40.0>-D @>?7460,77:1$I:",@7:> 8,9D:1?308:>?48;:=?,9? =,47B,D> >?,JI:/,@EB,> ?30.=0,?4:9:1=,E47>14=>? =,E474,9,=:<@08,>?0=> 49/@>?=4,74>??30'4>.:9/0 >@.3,>7045,/493:0>?=0 /0,@H1?0=,A4>4??: ',709?48,9/=042:>?493: /,"40/,/0!90:1?30208> :9/:949?30 > 4>?30 ?3.09?@=D#' ,@HB,>.:9A49.0/?3,? -D=,9.4>.: =,E47>1@?@=07,D49=,;4/ ),A40=/0=4?:B34.3/4> 49/@>?=4,74E,?4:9 01:@9/0/ ;7,D>,9011:=?70>>@94?D:1 ,94=:9B:=6>08;7:D492 8:?4:9,9/807,9.3:7D.:9 >:80 B:=60=>1=:8 ?08;7,?4:9 8:92?30 927,9/,9/$.:?7,9/ 9 ,@H:;090/34> >.@7;?@=0>8:>?7D-D,9:9 14=>?=,47B,DB34.3B,> D8:@>=,E474,949/42 09:@>,=?4>?>?B:;40.0> /0>4290/,9/=@9-D?30 >?,9/:@?F,8,50>?4. =4?4>3?74960/@9/4,L 1=4.,9=,E474,9 $I: 49?3030,=?:1$I: 09?:B4?3-7@00D0> ",@7:>.:1100=024:9 ,9/,90C<@4>4?07D B4?3 $,9?:>:9?30 .:,>? %:/,D?30>?,JI: /0?,470/ ?3.09?@=D /,@E>0=A0>:97D?30 0,;:74?,99,?4A4?D.=4- $I:",@7:.4?D,=0, .:8;=4>492,=:@9/ #:8,90><@0=0/-=4.6 ;40.0>B34.34>?30 ,=.30>,9/>?,?07D.,>? 8:>?48;:=?,9?:14?> 4=:9;477,=>>@;;:=?, 649/:@?>4/0 ,;70> >49270A,@7??3,?.:A0=> %30.:770.?4:9,7>: 10,?@=0>B:=6>-D São Bento with baby, 1:@=?=,.6>,9/ Museu Arte Sacra ;7,?1:=8>

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p374 and pp399–401

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Praça Júlio Prestes. Map 1 B1. Tel (011) 3337 5414. Luz. 10am–6pm Mon–Fri. 1–4:30pm Mon–Fri, 2pm Sat. www.salasaopaulo.art.br

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

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

Av Paulista 1578. Map 4 F2. Tel (011) 3251 5644. Trianon-Masp. 11am– 6pm Tue–Sun. free admission on Thu. http://masp.uol. com.br

The Schoolboy by Van Gogh (1888), Northern European Collection

FRENCH ART & PARISIAN SCHOOL

Resurrection of Christ (1501/1502) by Raphael, Italian collection

ITALIAN ART !1?308@>0@8>?3=00/:E09 ;=0 ?3.09?@=D?,74,9 ;,49?492> /,?01=:8?30 0,=7D#09,4>>,9.0;=4:=?:

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ART FROM THE IBERIAN PENINSULA & NORTHERN (4?38:=0?3,9 ;,49?492> EUROPE 1=:8?30 ?3?:0,=7D ?3 .09?@=D=,9.0/:849,?0>?30 %30=0>?:1@=:;04> 8@>0@8 %30.:770.?4:93,>, =0;=0>09?0/,>,.3=:9: 7:24.,784>38,>3:127:=4:@> B:9/0=1@7.3=:9:7:24.,7 ;,49?492> !1;,=?4.@7,=9:?0 .:9>4>?09.D 10B9:?,-70 0C.0;?4:9>,;,=?49.7@/492 ,=0A0=D1490$;,94>3;40.0> ,A4/4770?$0@=,?,9/ -D'07HE<@0E7=0.:,9/, =,<@0,77?308,5:=,=?4>?> 8,29414.09?>0=40>:10?.3492> ,=0=0;=0>09?0/7>:>3:B ,9/;:=?=,4?>-D:D,?30 .,>0/30=0,=0?3:>0B3: -0>?:1B34.34>?3,?:1 /=0B[email protected]1=:87,?0 ?3 ,=/49,7@L>,=L,/0 ?:0,=7D ?3.09?@=D",=4> :=-M9D',77,-=42, 09?=,7 @=:;03,>>:801490 >@.3,>',9:233,2,77 B:=6>-D:>.3:7-049 ,9/"4.,>>:,9D:1?30 087492#08-=,9/?#@-09> B:=6>,=0,8:92?30,=?4>?> ,9/=,9E,7> %30=0,=0 2=0,?0>?8,>?0=;40.0> ,7>:,10B;,49?492>-D=,9> 0>;0.4,77D?3:>0-D,90? ":>?/0;4.?492@?.3.:7:94,7 ,9/KE,9909:?30=208 "0=9,8-@.:927,9/4> 4> %:@7:@>0,@?=0.>& =0;=0>09?0/-D,2=:@;:1 &#$$$ % =0>;0.?,-70B:=6>-D %&#' # :9>?,-70,49>-:=:@23 :>3@,#0D9:7/>,9/%@=90= BRAZILIAN ART

The room displaying works from MASP’s French collection

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-96983+6>9A8=?<<9?8./. 899<+66+8.+8.09 >2/;?3/>90>2//+<6C79<8381 Rua Peixoto Gomide. <9?8.>23=>37/$H9"+?69 =7+667+77+6=38-6?.381 6am–6pm daily. A+=1<9A381<3-298><+38= +19?>3+8.7+<79=/>=-+8,/ +8.-900//!>2/<=09669A/. ./37++8.,/1+8>9,?36. 6+<1/29?=/=2/2/>?<890>2/ >2 -/8>?2/+@/8?/2+. ,/-97/ $H9"+?69=79=> ./=3<+,6/+..26+<1/9:?6/8> 7+8=398=9A8/.,C /B>2C<+D363+8 791?6=9<>2/-900//,+<98= +-27+8=398/.>2/ +<-23>/->?<+6:398= 90>2/9A8/<,/3> /9 6+==3-+6#238/6+8.9

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p374 and pp399–401

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Praça da Sé, via Av da Liberdade. Praça de Sé/Liberdade. Liberdade Rodoviária.

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Shrine Gate at Oriental Quarter Japanese Town, Liberdade

?=/?.+731<+IH9+:+8/=+ 8+>?<+.3>398+6+:+8/=/ 98>2/=+7/=>>= 38=>= ><+.3>398+6+:+8/=/=>C6/ +<-23>/->?9::/.A3>2+:C<+73. Imigração Japonesa =2+:/.<990'3=3>9<=+9+>>/8.>2/@+<39?= 5465. 1:30–5:30pm Tue–Sun. -/2/79=>37:
Templo Busshinji =3@/90A23-23=>2/798>26C Rua São Joaquim 285. Tel (011) /<37K83+./+8898%2/ 3208 4515. 9am–5pm daily. <3>?+6=:+C381297+1/>9>2/ by prior appointment. ?..2+=-97:+==398+>/ SÃO PAULO FASHION WEEK (3>2#9=+2G+8.+@+3+8+=+79813>=,<+8.=+8. =?:/<79./6=3=/6/?8.-2/8+8.8+/+><3D+<<9= <+D362+=<+:3.6C<3=/8>9>2/?::/2/ 0+=2398A9<6.38C/+<==>+,63=2/.986C38 $H9"+?69=0+=2398A//53=89A+>387/<3-+=79=> 37:9<>+8>0+=2398/@/8>6690>2/>9:<+D363+88+7/= +8.0+-/=+91/>2/2=?:/<79./6= 0<97+<9?8.>2/A9<6.(236/>2/=29A3=98>2/-3>C /=38>9+0+=2398023=>37/>2/0+=2398 0<+>/<83>C-+8,/=:9>>/.380+=2398+,6/,+<=+8.,9?>3;?/= >2<9?129?>>2/A/+6>2C-9<8/<=90>2/-3>C!@/< :/9:6/@3=3>>2/=29A3>=/60A23-2>+5/=:6+-/>A3-/+C/+/.>9>2//@/8>>2+8>9+8C9>2/< +->3@3>C38<+D36/B-/:>09<=9--/<+8.:963>3-+6=-+8.+6= %2//@/8>1/8/<+>/=+8/=>37+>/. 7366398>2<9?12>2/ 7/.3++698/A3>2792+8 8/A=:+:/<+8.7+1+ D38/:+1/=+8.+679=> 29?<=90>/6/@3=398-9@/<+1/

A fashion show in full swing, with models displaying a collection

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STAR SIGHTS

Hotel Unique O Obelisco aos Heroís de 32

The small vivarium

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The Bosque da Leitura

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MAM 0 yards

25

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p374 and pp399–401

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Av Pedro Álvares Cabral. Map 4 E5. 6am–9pm daily. Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM) Tel (011) 5549 9688. noon–6pm Tue, Wed & Fri; noon–10pm Thu; 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. Museu Afro Brasil Tel (011) 5579 8542. 10am– 6pm Tue–Sun. Bosque da Leitura 10am–4pm Sun.

The lush expanse of Lago do Ibirapuera (Ibirapuera Lake) in the park

The Monumento do Pedro Álvares Cabral(/./234(%/245'5%3%

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Ibirapuera Auditório

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Façade of the imposing Museu Paulista do Ipiranga in the Parque de Independência, Ipiranga

Parque da Independência s/n, Ipiranga. Tel (011) 6165 8000. 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. www.mp.usp.br

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Rua da Reitora 109a, Cidade Universitária. Tel (011) 3091 3538. 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat & Sun. by appointment. www. macvirtual.usp.br/mac/

97*&8:7*974;*4+24)*73 &3)548924)*73:745*&3 &3)7&?.1.&3&791.*89:(0*) &<&>.39-*(&25:84+F4 &:1482489).89.3,:.8-*) :3.;*78.9> -*(411*(9.43 &99-*:8*:)*79* 439*2547E3*&.8&3 &2&1,&2&9.434+)43&9.438 ,.;*3'><*&19->.3).;.):&18 8.3(*9-**&71> 9-(*39:7> &3)57.?*8+742F4&:148 79.*33.&18

Estrada de Ferro Central do Brasil by Tarsila de Amaral at MAC

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p374 and pp399–401

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Av Vital Brazil 1500, Cidade Universitária. Tel (011) 3726 7222. 9am–4:30pm daily. by appointment. www. butantan.gov.br

-*389.9:94:9&39F.8 &'.42*).(&17*8*&7(- (*39*7&++.1.&9*)949-* .)&)* 3.;*78.9D7.&9-* 3.;*78.9>4+F4&:14 4:3)*).3 '>!.9&1 7&8.194(43):(97*8*&7(- .394;*3424:8&3.2&18 9-*.389.9:9*.834<43* 4+9-*1*&).3,574):(*78 4+&39.;*3428&3)8*7&.3 9-*<471)9.8&18443*4+ 9-*(.9>857.3(.5&194:7.89 &997&(9.438&8.9.814(&9*) .3&57*99>+47*89*),&7)*3 +:114+-:22.3,'.7)8

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.98&143,8.)*9-*(*39*7&3) &3&)/&(*392:8*:2-4:8* 2&3>4+4:9- 2*7.(&8 247**=49.(83&0*8&3) &7&(-3.)8 2&11*7':9*;*3 )*&)1.*7(7*&9:7*8(&3'*8**3 9-74:,-2.(748(45*8.39-* .389.9:9*83*<1>45*3*) Museu de Microbiologia -.8 '7.,-924)*7385&(*&184 .3(1:)*8*=(*11*39.39*7&(9.;* ).851&>8<-.(-&7*5&79.(:1&71> 545:1&7<.9-(-.1)7*3

Av Miguel Stéfano 3031. Tel (011) 5073 6300. 9am–5pm Wed– Sun.

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Abstract rectangular structures, Parque Burle Marx

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Designer shops lining Rua Oscar Freire

6$)4)014"3&50#&'06/%*/ ."/:0'5)&-"3(&3."--4#65 5)&#&45*/5)&$*5:*4130#"#-: FNAC8)*$)"-40450$,4 "/&9$&--&/54&-&$5*0/0' 3";*-*"/ 4544&-&$5*0/4 0' "5*/ .&3*$"/"35)064& '*-.4"3&1"35*$6-"3-:4530/( 3"/%&4 "-&3*"403 5)& Galeria do Rock)"4" -"3(&$)0*$&0'30$,4 "/% 4)*4"3$"%&)"4 "306/% %*''&3&/54."-- 4)0144&--*/(&7&3:."//&3 0'"/% 08&7&3 0/-:"'&84503&40''&35)& %&4*3"#-&015*0/0'-*45&/*/( #&'03:*/(

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BOOKS & MAGAZINES

"6-*45"/04"%03&%&$03Etel Interiores)"4&926*4*5&501

"3(�,4)014$"/#& '06/%*/5)&."--4"/%"3& 646"--:8&--450$,&%8*5) /(-*4)-"/(6"(&/07&-4)& (3&"5&457"3*&5:*450#&'06/% */ Saraíva"/%Livraria Cultura )�,4)014 "55"$)&%505)&MASP"/% MAM("--&3*&4"3&8&-- 8035)"#3084&3";*-*"/ "35#00,4"3&0'"7&3:)*() */5&3/"5*0/"-45"/%"3%"/% .6$)0'5)&."5&3*"- */$-6%*/(3&130%6$5*0/40' 6301&"/"35,&15*/3";*- $"/0/-:#&'06/%)&3& "35*$6-"3-:*/5&3&45*/("3& 5)&(03(&0641)050(3"1)*$ #00,4 3";*-*"/"35"/%40$*"- 1)050(3"1):*4&9$&--&/5"/% 8&--3&13&4&/5&%*/5)& ("--&3:4067&/*34)014 7&313*$&%*/5&3/"5*0/"- 1"1&34"/%."(";*/&4$"/ "-40#()5"55)&-"3(&3 #00,4)014 )&3&"3&/0 /(-*4)-"/(6"(&16#-*$"5*0/4 */ 3";*- 0356(6&4&3&"%&34 8*--'*/%/&8445"/%403

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Household knick-knacks on display at Jacaré do Brasil

ARTS, CRAFTS & DESIGN

-5)06()"354"/%$3"'54 "3&#&45#06()53&(*0/"--: 1"35*$6-"3-:*/$&/5&3446$) "4"/"64"-."403 "36"365)&3&"3&"'&8 41&$*"-*454)014*/>0 "6-0 )& Casa das Culturas Indigenas4&--4*/%*(&/064 +&8&-3:"/%)064&)0-% (00%4 Jacaré do Brasil450$,4 */%*(&/064"/%3&(*0/"- *5&.4'30.)064&)0-% %&$03"5*0/505&95*-&4

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DIRECTORY FASHION Adriana Barra Rua Peixoto Gomide 1801, Casa 5. Map 4 E3. Tel (011) 3064 3691. www.adrianabarra. com.br

Cris Barros Rua Oscar Freire 295. Map 3 C2. Tel (011) 3082 3621.

Rosa Chá Rua Oscar Freire 977. Map 3 C2 Tel (011) 3081 2793. www.rosacha. com.br

Santa Paciência Rua Girassol 170, Vila Madalena. Map 3 A1. Tel (011) 3814 9188.

MUSIC & FILM FNAC Av Paulista 901. Map 4 F3. Tel (011) 2123 2000.

Galeria do Rock

MASP

Firma Casa

Rua 24 de Maio 62 & Av São João 439. Map 1 B2.

Av Paulista 1578. Map 4 F2. Tel (011) 3251 5644. www.masp.art.br

Al Gabriel Monteiro da

BEVERAGES Cachaçaria Paulista Rua Mourato Coelho 593, Vila Madalena. Map 3 A3. Tel (011) 3815 4756.

Saraíva Morumbi Shopping, Av Roque Petroni Jr., Morumbi. Tel (011) 5181 7574.

BOOKS & MAGAZINES Livraria Cultura Av Paulista 2073. Map 4 E2. Tel (011) 3170 4033.

MAM Parque do Ibirapuera, Portão 3. Map 4 E5. Tel (011) 5549 9688. www.mam.org.br

Tel (011) 3068 0377. www.firmacasa.com.br

Jacaré do Brasil Rua Dr. Melo Alves 555. Map 4 D2. Tel (011) 3081 6109. www. jacaredobrasil.com.br

Santo Grão Rua Oscar Freire 413. Map 4 D3. Tel (011) 3082 9969.

Silva 1487. Map 4 B4.

ARTS, CRAFTS & DESIGN

SHOPPING MALLS

Casa das Culturas Indigenas

Daslu

Rua Augusta 1371, loja 107. Map 4 E1. Tel (011) 3283 4924.

Tel (011) 3841 4000.

Etel Interiores

Av Ibirapuera 3103.

Al Gabriel Monteiro da Silva, 1834. Map 3 A4. Tel (011) 3064 1266. www.etelinteriores. com.br

Tel (011) 5095 2300.

Av Chedid Jafet 131. www.daslu.com.br

Ibirapuera Shopping

Iguatemi Av Faria Lima 2232. Map 3 A5. Tel (011) 3816 6116.

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CLASSICAL MUSIC & DANCE

Sergio Dias, Ceumar, and Rebecca Matta performing at SESC Pompéia

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Fans cheer during a championship match at the Estádio Morumbi

CHILDREN

SOCCER

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DIRECTORY GUIDES & LISTINGS Ticketmaster www.ticketmaster.com. br

Urbano Club

Theatro Municipal

Cine SESC

Rua Cardeal Arcoverde

Praça Ramos de Azevedo. Map 1 C2, 1 C3. Tel (011) 3223 3022.

Rua Augusta 2075. Map 4 E2. Tel (011) 3064 1668.

614. Map 3 B1. Tel (011) 3085 1001.

Tourist Information Desk

Via Funchal

Guarulhos International Airport. Tel (011) 6445 2945.

Vila Olímpia.

LIVE MUSIC

Praça Dom Orione 298,

A Marcenaria Rua Fradique Coutinho 1378, Vila Madalena. Map 3 A2. Tel (011) 3032 9006.

Bourbon Street Music Club Rua dos Chanes 127, Moema. Tel (011) 5095 6100.

SESC SESC Vila Mariana, Rua Pelotas 141. Tel (011) 5080 3000. www.sescsp.org.br

Rua Funchal 65,

DANCE BARS & CLUBS

Tel (011) 3044 2727.

Bambú

Villaggio Café

Rua Purpurina 272. Map 3 A1. Tel (011) 3031 2331.

Bela Vista. Map 1 A5. Tel (011) 3251 3730.

CLASSICAL MUSIC & DANCE

Canto da Ema Av Brig. Faria Lima 364, Pinheiros. Tel (011) 3813 4708.

Lov.E

Cultura Inglesa Rua Deputado Lacerda Franco 333. Tel (011) 3032 4888.

CHILDREN Fundação Parque Zoológico de São Paulo Av Miguel Stefano 4241. Tel (011) 5073 0811.

Playcenter

Rua Pequetita 189, Vila Olímpia. Tel (011) 3044 1613.

Rua José Gomes Falcão 20, Barra Funda. Tel (011) 3618 2700. www. playcenter.com.br

Tel (011) 3337 5414.

CINEMA & THEATER

SOCCER

Teatro Alfa

Cinearte

Estádio Morumbi

Rua Bento de Andrade

São Paulo Av 2073. Map 4 E2. Tel (011) 3285 3696.

Praça Roberto Gomes Pedrosa, São Paulo. Tel (011) 3749 8000.

Sala São Paulo Praça Julio Prestes. Map 1 B1.

Filho 722, Santo Amaro. Tel (011) 5693 4000.

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Stream flowing through the lush Mata Atlântica near Ubatuba

White sand beach on São Paulo’s coast in the Ubatuba region

162

S O U T H E A S T

B R A Z I L

Exploring Sao Paulo State The Sao Paulo coast is divided into the Litoral Norte, which stretches towards Rio in the northeast from the port city of Santos, and the Litoral Sul, which stretches from Santos towards Parana state. The Litoral Norte is one of the most heavily visited coastlines in southeastern Brazil. Beaches on the Ilhabela, Brazil's largest tropical island, and the resort of Ubatuba, are magnificently backed by towering spurs swathed in tropical rainforest. The sands of the Litoral Sul are darker and siltier than those of the Litoral Norte. Around Cananeia and Jureia, and stretching into Parana, are the largest tracts of lowland coastal forest outside the Amazon. The beautiful beaches of the Ilha do Cardoso are just a boat ride away from Cananeia. SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

SAO

PAULO

KEY

Area illustrated

SEE ALSO

Towns & Cities Cananeia Q Iguape O Santos O Sao Sebastiao O Sao Vicente O Ubatuba O State Parks & Areas of Natural Beauty Estacao Ecologico Jureia-Itatins O Islands Ilhabela O Ilha do Cardoso ® Beaches Maresias O

vNANEIA -r.a

ILHA DO CARDOSO

25

For additional map symbols see back flap

S A O

P A U L O

S T A T E

163

Jfl

"llha do Sao Sebastido 'Ponta do Boi Ilha de Alcatrazes *

GETTING AROUND There are two large airports - international and domestic - in Sao Paulo City. Regular bus services ply between Sao Paulo City and the major towns on the coast, but reaching the best of the beaches requires a car. The main routes to the coast are the Anchieta and Imigrantes highways between Sao Paulo City and Santos. From Santos, the route north follows the RioSantos (SP-055), which passes through all the major beach towns and heads into Rio de Janeiro state. The Litoral Sul can be reached by SP-055, which reaches only as far as the northern part of Jureia State Park. Towns farther to the south can be reached off highway BR-116.

Verdant Mata Atlantica (Atlantic rainforest) in Sao Paulo

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58,000. Av Doutour Altino Arantes 174, (012) 3892 2620. Festas do 20 de Janeiro (Jan). www.saosebastiao.com.br

Piçinguaba beach in Ubatuba with Serra do Mar mountains in the distance

65,000. Av Iperoigi 306, (012) 3832 4255.

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/3'-+95,.8/9: ':/4-,853:.+ :.)+4:;8? :.+9+/3'-+9=+8+,5;4* =/:./4)':+8/58/9=./:+='9.+*=/:. 2/3+3'*+,853:.5;9'4*9 5,)8;9.+*9.+229".+'9' )54:'/49953+,'*+*(;: 58/-/4'2 :.)+4:;8?)+/2/4- 6'/4:/4-9'4*9:':;'8? Casa Esperança Av Altino Arantes 144. 9am– 5pm Mon–Fri, 7–10am Sat & Sun.

Igreja Matriz Praça Major João Fernandes. Tel (012) 3892 1110. 9am–noon & 1–8pm daily. Museu de Arte Sacra Rua Sebastião Neves 90. Tel (012) 3892 4286. 1–6pm daily.

28,000. from São Sebastião to Perequê. Rua Doutor Carvalho s/n, (012) 3896 3777. Festa de Camarão (Aug). www.ilhabela.com.br

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Waterfront at Vila Ilhabela with 18th-century cannon

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Visitors relaxing outside a café in Vila Ilhabela

/4'))+99/(2+588+').'(2+ 542?(?:8'/29.58:*/9:'4)+ /42'4*,853+8+7;D(+'). Cachoeira da Toca=':+8,'229 62;4-+/4'9+8/+95,2/::2+ )'9)'*+9/4:59=/33/4-65529 8+62+:+=/:.=':+892/*+9 Cachoeira da Água Branca/9 2'8-+8=/:.358+9=/33/4- 65529:/9'4.5;89='21 '254-':8'/2=./).(+-/49': :.++4:8'4)+:5:.+9:':+6'81 '9.58:*/9:'4)+(+?54*:.+ :;845,,:5').5+/8'*'"5)' ;3+85;99./6=8+)195,, 2.'(+2''2953'1+/:'656;2'8 9);('*/
3,000. Praça Pordo Sol, in Boiçucanga, 4 miles (7 km) W of Maresias, (012) 3865 4335.

!5;:.5,!B5 !+('9:/B52/+ '4;3(+85,(+';:/,;2(+'). 8+958:9'8+9/'9:.+2/<+2/+9: 5,:.+25:/9(;9?=/:.?5;4- ./6';2/9:'459':=++1+4*9 '4*.52/*'?9Praia de Maresias/9,'35;9,58/:9 65=+8,;29;8,=./)..'9 (++4:.+9/:+,583'4? /4:+84':/54'29;8,/4-)53 6+:/:/549 Toque Toque Grande '4* Toque Toque Pequeno

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The archipelago of Ilha dos Alcatrez near São Sebastião, São Paulo

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Stained-glass skylight, depicting a representation of Brazil, the Mãe Douro, Bolsa e Museu do Café, Santos

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Benedito Calixto Av Bartolomeu de Gusmão 15. Tel (013) 3288 2260. 2–7pm Tue–Sun. Memorial das Conquistas Rua Princesa Isabel 77, Vila Belmiro. Tel (013) 3257 4000. 9am–7pm Tue–Sun, 1–7pm Mon. prior booking required. Santuário Santo Antônio do Valongo Marquez de Monte Alegre 13. 8am–6pm Tue–Sun.

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Vicente Mártir Proud display of trophies at the Memorial das Conquistas, Santos

Praça João Pessoa s/n, Centro irregular timings.

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! $

28,000. Preifetura Rua 15 de Novembro 272, (013) 3841 3009. www.guiadeiguape.com.br

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Rio Ribeira do Iguape estuary and Igreja do Rosário rising over Iguape town For hotels and restaurants in this region see p375 and p401

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4,383+6%4,7 !,)Museu de Arte Sacra-28,) 8,')2896= +6).%(337@6-3,397)7731) )''0)7-%78-'%03&.)'871378 3*;,-',(%8)*6318,) 8, %2( 8,')2896-)7

from Cananéia. Núcleo Perequê, Cananéia, (013) 3815 1108. www.cananeia.net

Environs

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14,000. Av Beira Mar 247, (013) 851 1473. www. cananeia.net

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Stuffed great white shark, Museu Municipal, Cananéia

*6318,)(3'/7-2%2%2D-% 83 Ilha do Cardoso8,%80-)7-2 8,)%+31%6&%=%6%2( 4%77)2+)66%*878%/) 1-298)783*)66=%'63778,) )789%6=-2*63283*8,)83;2 838,)7398,)626)%',)73* 8,) Ilha Comprida)%783* +9%4)%2((3737):)6%0 8-1)74)6(%=!,)&)%',)7 ,)6)0-)%7,368(-78%2') &)=32(8,)-70%2(7*)66= 4368%032+%7%2(=63%( ;,-',-70-2)(;-8,%,%2(*90 3*891&0)(3;2 #,-0)-2%2%2D-%-8-7 ;368,:-7-8-2+8,)8-2=83;2 197)91 Museu Municipal ;,-',46)7)6:)7&-873* 2%98-'%01-7')00%2=6-() 3*40%')%132+8,))<,-&-87 +3)783;,%8-76)498)(83 &)8,)0%6+)78+6)%8;,-8) 7,%6/):)6;)-+,-2+% ,)*8= 0& /+ 23;789**)(4%-28)(%2( ,%2+-2+7%*)0=*6318,) 197)91')-0-2+ Museu Municipal Rua Tristão Lobo 78. Tel (013) 3851 1753. noon–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat & Sun.

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Virgin beach on Ilha do Cardoso, near Cananéia

NORTHEAST BRAZIL

INTRODUCING NORTHEAST BRAZIL 174179 BAHIA 180207 SERGIPE, ALAGOAS & PERNAMBUCO 208225 PARAÍBA, RIO GRANDE DO NORTE & CEARÁ 226243 PIAUÍ & MARANHÃO 244255

174

N O R T H E A S T

B R A Z I L

Northeast Brazil at a Glance Comprising the nine states of Bahia, Sergipe, Alagoas, Pernambuco, Paraiba, Rio Grande do Norte, Ceara, Piaui, and Maranhao, the Northeast is truly a tropical paradise. Most of the states have three distinct areas the fertile coastal strips with idyllic sand beaches giving way to the intermediate hilly areas with lush Atlantic rainforests, also home to a variety of fauna, and finally the vast semi-arid interiors. The beaches here range from the fascinating Canoa Quebrada beach in Ceara, to Genipabu and its sand dunes in Rio Grande do Norte, Porto de Galinhas in Pernambuco, and the Fernando de Noronha archipelago, among many others. The legacy of the Northeast's colonial history can still be seen in numerous, impressive historic monuments in Salvador, Olinda, and Sao Luis.

PIAUI & MARANHAO

(see pp244-55)

Sao Luis (see pp252-5), capital of Maranhao, was founded by the French. It is a town with a beautiful historic core, Centra Historico, with cobbled streets and 3,500 pastel-colored colonial buildings, which have recently been renovated. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is one of Brazil's finest examples of Portuguese architecture.

BAHIA

(see-pp-180-207)

Len^ois (see p204), inBahia, is the perfect starting point to explore the Chapada's caves and waterfalls, or to hike up the 3,937-ft (1,200-m) surrounding peaks. Miners flocked to this area during the gold and diamond rush.

A panoramic view of Len^ois Maranhenses

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I N T R O D U C I N G

N O R T H E A S T

B R A Z I L

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FERNANDO DE NORONHA

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Fernando de Noronha (see pp224-5), part of Pernambuco, comprises 21 islands. The warm, clear waters here offer Brazil's best scuba diving and snorkeling experience.

SERGIPE.ALGOAS & PERNAMBUCO Hj>p208-25) Recife (see pp216-19)

Natal (see p236), capital of Rio Grande do Norte, is a popular sunshine destination. The beaches around Natal, with huge moving dunes, shaped by the shifting wind create fascinating landscapes of snowy white sand.

Salvador (see pp!84-95), capital ofBahia, has beautifully restored complexes of Baroque churches and palaces, built during the 18th-century sugar boom. Its historic center, Pelourinho, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offers a unique glimpse into Brazil's history and is the crown jewel of Portuguese architecture.

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A view of the Parque Nacional Marinho dos Abrolhos, comprising an archipelago of five islands

A Baiana walking on a cobblestoned street, past a tree in full bloom in the colonial town of São Félix

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A Baiana under the towering cross outside Salvador's Memorial das Baianas

SEE ALSO

• Where to Stay pp376-8 • Where to Eat pp4

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GETTING AROUND Bahia is large, and the roads are mostly precarious. However, the Linha Verde (BA-099), which runs north along the coast from Salvador to the border with Sergipe, provides easy, quick access to the beach towns. Traveling south from Salvador, the BR-101 runs parallel to the coast, about 37 miles (60 km) inland. Access to beach towns on the southern coast is via secondary roads. The best way to get around is to fly to one of the major destinations, such as Salvador, Ilheus, or Porto Seguro, and proceed by bus to explore the surrounding regions. The main destination inland, the Chapada Diamantina, is a drive from Salvador on the BR-324, BR-126, and BR-242 highways. Lencois in the Chapada Diamantina can be reached by road and plane.

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 2,400,000. 22 miles (35 km) from city center. Av Antônio Carlos Magalhães 4362, Pernambués, (071) 3450 3871. Av Oscar Pontes 1051, (071) 3254 1020; across from Mercado Modelo, (071) 3241 2893. Rua Gregório de Matos 12, Pelourinho, (071) 3321 2463. Lavagem do Bonfim (Jan), Carnaval (Feb). www.emtursa.ba.gov.br

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Terreiro de Jesus

São Francisco

Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p377 and pp402–403

Igreja e Convento de

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STAR SIGHTS

Pastel-hued buildings along the slope of Pelourinho

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Bahia. Barra from Praça da Sé. Rua Laranjeiras 12, (071) 3321 2463. 8:30am–9pm daily. Terça da Benção (every Tue). Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos Praça José de Alencar s/n. 9am–6pm daily. 6pm Tue, 10am Sun. Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco Rua Inácio Accioli. Tel (071) 3321 6968. 8:30am–5pm daily. 8:30am Wed & Sun.

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$# 2 Largo do Pelourinho s/n. Tel (071) 3321 0122. 9am–6pm Mon–Sat.

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Antique postcard displayed at the Museu Tempostal

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&5 Terreio de Jesus, Praça XV de Novembro s/n. Tel (071) 3321 4573. 8:30–11:30am & 1:30–5:30pm Mon–Sat. 11am–noon Sun. Baroque concert held every Sun at 11am.

#)4>),7:;5)16+)<0-,:)4 *=14<*--:-,?1<0<0-8)4-+747:-, $01;;5)445=;-=516<0- ;<76-/1>16/<0-+0=:+0) .7:5-:)+=4)=4<-,+-1416/7.<0- 7.807<7/:)80;):-1;5),-.:75 ):<1.)+<;)44:-4)<-,<7<0- ?77, $0-,-+7:)<176;):- .:1+)6,1);87:)16:)B14 $0- +):>-,16:-41-.)6,;<)6,7=< 5)16-@01*1<,1;84)A;7*2-+<; .:75<0-+-1416/?1<0)6 )6,+:).<;.:75<0-7:1/16)4 )457;<<0:--,15-6;176)4 .:1+)6+=4<=:-;7.:-/176; -..-+<$0-5)16)4<):)6,-,7=<7.?77,)6, ?0-:-:)B14*7=6,;4)>-; Covers of Amado’s books exhibited ?-:-+)8<=:-,$0-01/041/0< +7>-:-,16/74,4-). at Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado 7.<0-+744-+<176):-<0- -,1+)<-,<7#<:)6+1;<0- 41.-;1B-,?77,+):>16/;7. )4<):+76<)16;);14>-:84)<-, <0- *A ;<)<=-7.7;;) #-607:),); ):)>140); =: ),A 3 )01)6):<1;<):A*I D,-81+<16/ 7.1:)+4-;?01+01; Rua Gregorio de Matos 33, <0-1:+0):)+<-:1;<1+ ;)1,<70)>-16;81:-, Pelourinho. Tel (071) 3117 6383. ?-)876;)6,:-/)41) )<0-:6-:?01+0 8:1-;-5-6< *=14,16/16<0-0-):<7. '-5)62G<0-7,,-;; 7.16,1/-67=;8-784- !-47=:1607<01;5=;-=5 7.<0-#-)1;;07?6 1;.1-:A)6<1;4)>-:A ,1;84)A;764A).:)+<1767. ?1<0).1;0)6,;-) ;-:576;,1,67<;1< .7=6,-: 6),7:); ):57: :-41/17=;):<$0-

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p377 and pp402–403

# &

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Altar of Catedral Basílica, the main cathedral of Salvador

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! " #6 8 See pp190–91.

Praça Tomé de Sousa s/n. 10am– noon & 2–6pm Tue–Fri.

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Memorial das Baianas 9am– 7pm daily.

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Art Deco Elevador Lacerda with market stalls below

! 9 Praça Tomé de Sousa s/n. 24 hrs daily.

Preparations for a cultural show outside Palácio Rio Branco

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Franciscan Shield Main Altar Azulejos For hotels and restaurants in this region see p377 and pp402–403

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Largo Cruzeiro de São Francisco, Praça Anchieta, Pelourinho. Tel (071) 3322 6430. 8am–5pm Mon–Sat, 8am–4pm Sun. Sound & Light Show 11:30am & 4pm Mon & Wed–Sat. Igreja Terceira Ordem de São Francisco Rua Inácio Accioli. 8:30am– 5:30pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun.

Detailing +#

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IGREJA TERCEIRA ORDEM DE SÃO FRANCISCO %"+.*0"(5 .2"!*! !"0&("!/+,/0+*"#7!"+# 0%" %1. %+#0%"%&.!.!". +#0.* &/*"40!++.&/0%" +*(5+*"+#&0/'&*!&*.6&( %"#7!".")&*"!%&!!"* #+.)*55"./"%&*! (5".+#,(/0".+*(50+" 1* +2"."! &!"*0((53%"* 3&.&*$3/"&*$&*/0(("!&* 0%" /%" %1. %(/+ %/)1/"1)*!.++) +#.* &/ *0+)/

Soapstone exterior of the church

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Pretty lace hammocks displayed in the stalls outside the Mercado Modelo

0 Praça Visconde de Cairu, Comércio. Tel (071) 3241 2893. 9am–7pm Mon–Sat, 9am–2pm Sun.

%1..;,*-88-.58@*< +>25=27 *<*,><=86< +>25-270 %1.<:>*;.+.127- =1.6*;4.=78@><.-+B @*< @1.;.+8*=<@8>5--8,4=8 >758*-=1.2;6.;,1*7-2<./8; 27<9.,=287 %1.+>25-270@*< =;*7<.

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The Museu de Arte Sacra, housed in a 17th-century convent

w Av do Contorno s/n. Tel (071) 3329 0660. Museu de Arte Moderna 1–6pm Tue–Sun. Tel (071) 3117 6130.

=B92,*58/=1. =1,.7=>;BD* ,1*9.5*+2018><.@2=1<5*?. :>*;=.;<87=1.58@.;/588; *7-*5*;0.6255@1.;.,*7. @*<=;*70*; >;270=1.<>0*;+886 8/=1. =1,.7=>;B=1. 8@7.;<*--.-*,8>;=B*;- /8>7=*27*7-*/>55<2C. ,1>;,18<<*$.718;*-* 87.2GF8 /=.;=1.<>0*; =;*-.,855*9<.-27=1. =1 ,.7=>;B=1.$85*;@*<><.- ?*;28><5B*<*/*,=8;B* @*;.18><.*7-7*?*5 +*;;*,4<27*55B27=1. < 2=@*<-.<207*=.-**=287*5 2<=8;2,87>6.7=*7- ,18<.7*<=1.<2=./8;=1. Museu de Arte Moderna <.;2.<8/;.78?*=287<;.<=8;.- =1.+>25-270<=8=1.2;/8;6.; 058;B@125.>90;*-270=1. /*,252=2.<=827,5>-..201= .A12+2=;886<*=1.*=.; *7-*52+;*;B %1.,8695.A*5<818><.< *7.A,.55.7=;.<=*>;*7= +.<2-.<-2<95*B2709*27=270< .=,1270<*7-<,>59=>;.<+B <86.8/;*C25<+.<=478@7 68-.;7*;=2<=<7=1. .?.7270<2=18<=<*9;.<.7 =*=2878/=;*-2=287*5*12*7 -*7,.*7-/85458;.1.5-27 =1./8;6.;<5*?.:>*;=.;<

Rua do Sodré 276. Tel (071) 3243 6310. 11:30am–5:30pm Mon–Fri.

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Exterior of the Solar do Unhão, once a colonial sugar mill

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p377 and pp402–403

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e Av 7 de Setembro 2340, Vitória. Tel (071) 3117 6902. 2–7pm Tue–Sun.

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

The Forte de Santo Antônio, topped by the lighthouse

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5201=18><.*=89=1./8;=@*< 8;2027*55B+>25=27 *7-2< <=255><.-+B+8*=<7*?20*=270 =1..7=;*7,.=8=1.+*B Praça Almirante Tamandaré, Largo 7<2-.=1./8;==1.><.> do Farol s/n, Barra. Tel (071) 3264 2-;80;E/2,8><.>68/ 3296. 8am–7:30pm Tue–Sun. B-;80;*91B<18@<12<=8;2, 7*?20*=28727<=;>6.7=<*7-* 7.8/$*5?*-8;<+.<=478@7 ?*;2.=B8/,1*;=<%1.;.2<*5<8 *78=*+5.,855.,=2878/,827< 5*7-6*;4<=1.8;=.$*7=8 7=K728@*<.;.,=.-27 *7-127*/;86*!8;=>0>.<. 0*55.87=1*=/8>7-.;.-27 %1./8;=@*<<=;.70=1.7.-27 =1..*;5B =1,.7=>;B27 8//#28'.;6.518+.*,1 ;.<987<.=8>=,1*==*,4<87 %1./8;=*5<8+8*<=<* ,*/H@2=1*78>=-88;=.;;*,. =1.,8*<=*7->90;*-.-=8 8//.;270<@..9270?2.@< 2=<9;.<.7=<=*;<1*9.*==1. +.02772708/=1. =1,.7=>;B 8/ $*5?*-8;<<4B527.

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ostumed dancers at the Salvador Carnaval

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A group of colorfully dressed women during Lavagem do Bonfim

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Bahia. Barra from Praça da Sé. on the corner of Rua Francisco Muniz Barretto & Laranjeiras, Pelourinho, (071) 3321 2463. www. emtursa.ba.gov.br Festa de Yemanjá (Feb).

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Ilha de Itaparica, one of the tropical islands in the Baía de Todos os Santos

'4*8/).95/29=+8+)54*;9/<+ :5-85=/4-:5('))5'4*358+ 18,000. from Salvador. 9/-4/)'4:2?9;-'8)'4+"4:/2 Zimbo Tropical, (071) 638 1148. :.+)8'9.5,:.+9;-'8+)5 453?/4:.+ :.)+4:;8? !.+2'8-+9:/92'4*/4:.+'G' '4:5 3'858+3'/4+*:.+ *+ !5*5959 '4:59'?5, ,5);95,+)H4)'<599;-'8 /4*;9:8?/2'6/*':+*3'4 22 '/4:9=/:.9;33+8 9/5495,:.++89:=./2+9;-'8 .5;9+92/4/4-/:99.58+ ('8549)'49:/22(+9++4'254- :'6'8/)'/9'656;2'8=++1 +4*8+,;-+,58:.+8+9/*+4:9 :.+52*9:8++:95='*'?9 :./9;468+:+4:/5;9:5=4/9 5, '2<'*58 5)':+*54:.+458:.+84:/6 145=4,58/:96'6+8/4*;9:8? 5,:.+/92'4*:.+3'/4)/:?/9 :/9'295,'35;9'9:.+.53+ :5=45,'+:'45#+2595'4* -;'8*+*(?:.+58:+*+ D5 5;8+4E5=./).='9(;/2:(? '8/' +:.C4/':=55, :.+;:)./4 354-:.+ 8'@/29359:656;2'89/4-+89 /92'4*93'/4'::8'):/549'8+ '4?5,:.+92'<+9=.5 953+./9:58/)(;/2*/4-9 =+8+(85;-.:,853,8/)' :5=5815462'4:':/549 /4)2;*/4-:.+

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60,000. from Salvador. Bembé do Mercado (May 13–18).

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Lush hillsides in the Recôncavo, covered with sugar cane

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp376–8 and pp401–403

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30,000. Praça da Aclamação 4. Festa da Boa Morte (Aug 13–15).

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Cobblestoned streets lined with colorful houses in Cachoeira

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(?+83'4)/-'83'1+8 +8.'8*'44+3'44 2+99+*(?56:/3;3 )54*/:/549,58-85=/4- '4*685)+99/4-:5('))5 :.+'44+3'44,'):58? 7;/)12?(+)'3+54+5, :.+8+-/549,/4+9:)/-'8 685*;)+89!.+8+-/549:/22 685*;)+9'44+3'44)/-'89 (;::.+58/-/4'2,'):58?.'9 45=(++4)54<+8:+*/4:5' );2:;8'2)+4:+8145=4'9:.+ Centro Cultural Dannemann 93'22+>./(/:5,52* 3')./4+8?:+229:.+9:58? 5,:.++'82?,'):58?*'?9 4=++1*'?9/:/96599/(2+ :5=':).:.+,'):58?=581+89 8522/4-)/-'89 Centro Cultural

Dannemann Av Salvador Pinto 29. Tel (075) 3425 2208. 8am–5pm Tue–Sat, 1–5pm Sun.

Market scene in São Félix, with a vendor selling fruit

FESTA DA BOA MORTE

Members of the Sisterhood of the Good Death in festive regalia

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from Itacaré or Camamu to Barra Grande. Barra Grande, (075) 3255 2228.

",)0%-1()67-1%7-21%77,) 1257,)517-32*7,))1-168/% ()%5%D-6Barra Grande %()/-+,7*8/5)027)*-6,-1+ 9-//%+))%87-*8/&)%',)6 %5)6'%77)5)(%/21+7,))17-5) /)1+7,2*7,)3)1-168/%&87 -7-6(-**-'8/772+)7%5281( :-7,287%'%5285:,))/ The ruins of Fortaleza do Tapirando in Morro de São Paulo (5-9)6*)55<3%66)1+)56*520

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp376–8 and pp401–403

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The beautiful and unspoiled Prainha beach in Itacaré

18,000. Ilhéus. Itacaré Ecotourismo, (073) 3251 3666.

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Jorge Amado

Rua Jorge Amado 21. Tel (073) 3634 8986. 9am–noon & 2–6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat.

221,000. Ilhéustur, (073) 3634 3510.

Igreja de São Jorge Praça Rui Barbosa. irregular hrs.

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Casa de Cultura Jorge Amado, childhood home of the famed author

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp376–8 and pp401–403

Ibama, Av Juracy Magalhães Junior 608, Salvador, (071) 240 7322.

#.68=.*7->7271*+2=.- =1.*;,129.5*088/+;8518< -2<,8?.;.-+B6.;208 '.<9>,,227 8//.;< .A,.55.7=8998;=>72=2.=1.;7*12* 7

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Crystal-blue water of Poço Azul (Blue Pool), Chapada Diamantina

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp376–8 and pp401–403

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A view of the old diamond mining town of Lençóis

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

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STAR SIGHTS

Morro do Pai Inácio Vale do Paty

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Church and colorful houses in the small town of Canudos

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp376–8 and pp401–403

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

,)-2,%")6()6))2-2)-78,) 1-0) /1786)8',3*'3%788,%869272368, *631%0:%(36%008,);%=83%2+9))'3 328,))6+-4)&36()68-73*8)26)*)66)(83 %78,)786%(%(3D'3363'3298-+,;%= &)'%97)3*8,)8,-'/78%2(73*4%0186))78,%8 0-2)8,)&)%',)7 ,-74%683*8,)'3%783**)67 Projeto 7):)6%043490%6,30-(%=()78-2%8-327%2( Tamar logo ;)00():)034)(6)73687 ,)1378*%:36)( ()78-2%8-327%6)6%-%(3368)%2(378%(3%9B4) %68,)62368,8,)&)%',)7%6)46-78-2)%2(&)%98-*90

Bahia. from Salvador. Odara, Av ACM s/n, Praia do Forte. Tel (071) 3676 1080. www.odaratours.com.br; Centrotour, Av ACM s/n, Praia do Forte. Tel (071) 3676 1091. www.centrotouristico.com.br Projeto Tamar Av ACM s/n, Praia do Forte. Tel (071) 3676 1020. 9am–6pm daily. www.projetotamar. com.br

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Dois Irmãos (Mount of the Two Brothers), Parque Nacional Marinho de Fernando de Noronha

The serene Igreja Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, Vila dos Remédios, Fernando de Noronha

210

N O R T H E A S T

B R A Z I L

Exploring Sergipe, Alagoas & Pernambuco Year-round warm weather makes this region a popular sunshine destination. The island archipelago of Fernando de Noronha in Pernambuco is Brazil's top scuba diving destination, and it also offers a fascinating ecosystem rich in wildlife. Recife and Olinda provide a captivating impression of 17th- and 18th-century Brazil, a legacy of Dutch and Portuguese colonization. Sao Cristovao and Penedo, located on the border between the two states, are both charming Baroque colonial towns. Penedo has the added advantage of offering a spectacular view of the Rio Sao Francisco.

Rio Sao Francisco, the largest river in Northeast Brazil

Towns & Cities

Aracaju O Caruaru ( Maceio O Marechal Deodoro 4 Olinda pp220-22 © Penedo O Recife pp216-19 & Sao Cristovao O Beaches, Islands & Areas of Natural Beauty

Stunning blue sky and pastel-colored colonial houses

For additional map symbols see back flap

Canion Xingo 0 Porto de Galinhas O Fernando de Noronha pp224-5® Ilha de Itamaraca ® Rio Sao Francisco O

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Sailboats near Fernando de Noronha with Morro do Pico at a distance

" $ # $ " '

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;/(5+ ;/*,5;<90,:)<; >/,5;/,*(70;(3:/0-;,+;6 9(*(1<0;:665+>05+3,+;6 ;/,:3,,7@05;,9069;6>50;0: ;6+(@;:*/(5.,05:;(;<: /6>,=,9>(:;/,9,(:65 >/@4(5@6-#C690:;F=C6: */<9*/,:(5+*63650(3 )<03+05.:>,9,:7(9,+;/, 79,::<9,:6-46+,95+,=,367 4,5;(5+:;033:<9=0=,05;(*; $/,;6>5:*/(9405. The wide boulevards of Sergipe’s capital, Aracaju /0:;690**,5;,90:(7(5673@6- *63650(3:8<(9,:(5+)<03+ 05.:(5+0:(3:6(/<)6- Environs *644,9*,$/,46:;),(<;0 9(*(1<:30=,3@),(*/ Sergipe. 492,000.

-<33@79,:,9=,+:8<(9,Praça 5,0./)69/66+:30,;6 Centro de Turismo, (079) 3179 de São Francisco0:,(:03@ 403,: ;6 24:6<;/6- 1933. Festa de São João (Jan), 0+,5;0-0,+)@;/,3(9., ;/,*0;@*,5;,9$/,46:; Forró Caju Music Festival (Jun), Festa 767<3(9:<)<9)(5),(*/0: 9(5*0:*(5*96::(;0;:*,5;,9 de Yemanjá (Dec). Atalaia>0;/:769;:(5+ 3(5205.;/,:8<(9,(9, 9,*9,(;065-(*030;0,: ;/, #(5;((:(6:70;(3 #,9.07,:690.05(3*(70;(3>(: :;(.,:-69*<3;<9(3 ;/,-694,96=,9569: #C690:;F=C636*(;,+053(5+ ,=,5;:(:>,33(: !(3(*,(5+;/, -964;/,;3(5;0* *,(5 65=,5;6+,#C6 .66+:,(-66+1605;: )<9.,6505.;9(+,05:<.(9 9(5*0:*6>/0*/56> $/,6;/,9-(=690;,0: /6>,=,94(+,(:0A()3,769; Praia Atalaia Nova65 /6<:,:;/,Museu de Arte Sacra <:,<4 5,*,::(9@(5+05 ;/, ;/, 3/(+,#(5;( Cristóvão *(70;(3>0;/(/69:,+9(>5 ),(<;0-<33@:*<37;,+ :;9,,;*(9(5+(46=0,;/,(;,9 :;(;<,:6-:(05;:$/,*,0305. 6-;/,*65=,5;*/(7,3>(: $6+(@ 9(*(1<0:(:4(33 7(05;,+)@;/,(/0(5(9;0:; *0;@>0;/(*644,9*0(3+6>5 ;6>5(9,((365.;/,:6<;/ Sergipe. 73,000. from 6:E $,F-036+,,:<: B 90=,9)(52 #,(30-,,5;/<:0(:;: Aracaju. Centro de Turismo, (079) $/,(55<(3,:;0=(3 =0:0;Oceanário>0;/0;:46+,3: 3214 8848. Festival de Arte de +, 9;,+,#C690:;F=C6 /6:;:767<3(9(9;(5+4<:0* São Cristóvão (Oct). 6-=(906<:4(905,/()0;(;:

Oceanário Av Santos Dumont. Tel (079) 3243 9214. 2–8pm Tue–Fri, 9am–9pm Sat & Sun.

+,:0.5(;,+(;065(3 0:;690* ,90;(., #0;, #C690:;F=C6 >(:-6<5+,+05 (5+0: *65:0+,9,+65,6-;/,63+,:;

Franciscan cross in front of Convento de São Francisco in São Cristóvão For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp378–9 and pp403–405

Museu de Arte Sacra Praça de São Francisco. Tel (079) 3261 1385. 9:30am–5pm Tue– Fri, 9am–5pm Sat & Sun.

# " !

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Streets and historic buildings by the Penedo waterfront

Environs

$/, Rio São Francisco Delta Alagoas. 60,000. from 0:,(:03@(**,::,+-964;/, Maceió. Diretor do Turismo, (081) ;6>56-!0(D()(:-6<5+,+ -69,:;:(5+0:/64,;6;<9;3,: 05 )@<(9;,6,3/6 (5+40.9(;05.:,()09+:$/, !,9,09(65(:;9(;,.0*)3<-- 90=,9)(52053(.6(:-,(;<9,: 36>963305.:(5++<5,: 6=,9366205.;/,"06 #C6 9(5*0:*6()6<; 403,: 24<7:;9,(46-;/, +,3;( 5=(+05.<;*/-69*,: *658<,9,+;/,;6>505 (5+(-;,9,0./;@,(9:;/, Sergipe, Alagoas, Pernambuco & !69;<.<,:,4(5(.,+;6 Minas Gerais. 9,.(05*65;963$6+(@ !,5,+6:/0:;690**,5;,9 /(:),,5+,:0.5(;,+( $/,3(9.,:;(5+46:; (;065(3 0:;690*65<4,5; 04769;(5;90=,905;/,9,.065 !(9;0*<3(93@56;,>69;/@0: ;/, "06 #C69(5*0:*6/(: ;/,*6473,?/6<:05.;/,

Convento de São Francisco (5+ Igreja de Santa Maria dos Anjos)<03;6=,9(

7,906+6- @,(9: $/, Igreja Nossa Senhora da Corrente /<9*/6- <9 (+@6-/(05:)<03;05 )@;/,,46:+,65A(.( -(403@>(:<:,+(:(9,-<., -699<5(>(@:3(=,:>/6;/, -(403@6-;,5796=0+,+>0;/ -69.,+*,9;0-0*(;,:6--9,,+64 ;/(:(-05,"6*6*6:;@3, 4(05(3;(9 Convento de São

Francisco & Igreja de Santa Maria dos Anjos Rua 7 de Setembro 218. 8am–5pm Mon–Fri, 8–11am Sat. Igreja Nossa

Senhora da Corrente Praça 12 de Abril. 8am–5pm Mon–Sun.

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

LAMPIÃO & MARIA BONITA 5;/, :(5+ :)(5+0;3,(+,9 (470C6(5+/0:>0-,(90(650;( 3,+()(5+6- 6<;3(>:50*2 5(4,+ 4,(5:)(+3(5+:65( @,(9 :79,,6-96)),90,:/63+<7:9(7,: (5+:/66;6<;:(*96::;/,69;/,(:; :;/,099(0+:*65;05<,+(470C6 (5+(90(650;(),*(4,56;6906<: -0.<9,:;/96<./6<;9(A03 $/,+<6 ,=,505;96+<*,+;/,096>5:;@3,6- *36;/05.>0;/;/,96<5+3,(;/,9 /(;;/,-965;)904 ;<95,+<7>(9+(5++,*69(;,+>0;/ :;(9:69*605:$/,7630*,(5+4030;0( :,(9*/,+-69;/,4,5+3,::3@)<; Lampião and Maria >,9,<5()3,;6*(7;<9,;/,4 Bonita clay statues 05(33@05 (470C6(90( 650;((5+505, >,9,(4)<:/,+(5+2033,+ )@;/,7630*,05#,9.07,$/,09:;69@/(:05:709,+5<4,96<: :65.:73(@:(5++0--,9,5;=,9:065:65-034(5+$&

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09/4>;=:?0.?0/-D,7,=20 =001%30,@?3:=4?40>,=0 B:=6492?:B,=/=08:A492 ?30=0>?,@=,9?>?3,?3,A0 -009-@47?=423?:9?30>,9/

Sergipe. from Aracaju. Reservatório de Xingó, (079) 9972 1320. trips to the dam at 8am, 11:30am & 3pm.

$?,9/492:9?30#4:$H: =,9.4>.:?30)492K,849 $0=24;04>:90:1?307,=20>? 49=,E47(3094?B,> .:8;70?0/49 ?30/,8 -7:.60/:11?30$H:=,9.4>.: .,9D:9,?,;:49?,-:@? 8470> 681=:8?30 :.0,9.,@>492?30=4A0=?: =4>0,9/.=0,?0?30)492K #0>0=A:4=%34>,=?414.4,77,60 4>9:B,;:;@7,=/0>?49,?4:9 ,?,8,=,9>,9/>.3::90=> /0;,=?1=:8?30/,8,9/ ?=,A07@;>?=0,8.=:>>492?30 =0>0=A:4=,9/=009?0=492?30 8,49;,=?:1?30=4A0=$0A0=,7 =:.6;,>>,20B,D>?3,?;=0 A4:@>7D7,D,??30?:;:1?30 .,9D:9,=09:B:;09?: 0C;7:=,?4:9-D-:,? $4?@,?0/8470> 68 1=:8?30/,8?30Museu

Convento do São Francisco Praça Pedro Paulinho. Tel (082) 3551 2279. 8–11:30am & 2– 5pm Mon–Fri, 8–11am Sat & Sun. Igreja de Santa

Maria Madalena Praça João 23. Tel (082) 3263 1623. 9am–5pm Mon–Sun.

Igreja de Santa Maria Madalena in Marechal Deodoro’s historic center

Alagoas. 30,000. from Maceió. Alseturs, (082) 315 1503.

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,>'47, ,/,709,%30.4?DB,> =09,80/493:9:=:14?> 9,?4A0>:9,=>3,77,9@07 de Arqueológia de Xingó 0:/:=:/,:9>0., F /4>;7,D>9@80=:@>,=.3,0: 070.?0/,>=,E47>14=>? 7:24.,7:-50.?>1=:890,=-D ;=0>4/09?49 :9>0.,> >4?0>?3,?B0=017::/0/B309 .347/3::/3:804>9:B, ?30/,8B,>.=0,?0/=?41,.?> >8,778@>0@8/4>;7,D492 1=:8?300,=740>?>4?0>/,?492 [email protected]:1?30:=4249,71@=94?@=0 1=:8,=:@9/ 49.7@/0 ,9/1,847D808:=,-474, ,==:B>=:.6;,49?492>;=484 %30.4?D>>8,77 ?3.09?@=D ?4A0>?:908:=?,=>,9/14>3 .:7:94,7.09?0=10,?@=0>?30 #:.:.: Igreja de Santa .70,9492?::7>,?0=>4?0> Maria Madalena/5:49492 =0A0,7,A,=40?D:14?08> ?30.3@=.3?30Convento 49.7@/492-:9050B07=D /0.:=,?4A0.0=,84.>,9/.7,D do São Francisco 3:@>0>, >8,778@>0@8 .:9?,490=>,9//4>30> @>?, 849@?0-@>=4/0 Museu de Arqueológia 1=:8?30.4?D4>?30Praia do de Xingó FrancêsB4?3;:B/0=D>,9/ 2 miles (3 km) from Xingó dam ,9//00;-7@0B,?0=?3,> at Rodoviaria Canindé-Piranhas. 09:=8:@>B,A0>1:=>@=1492 9am–4pm Wed–Sun. ,?:9009/B3470?30:?30=

View of Praia de Francês, one of the popular beaches of Marechal Deodoro For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp378–9 and pp403–405

Alagoas. 885,000. (082) 221 4615. Rua Antônio Cansanção 1268, Ponta Verde, (082) 2121 0978. Maceió Fest (Nov).

%30.,;4?,7:17,2:,> ,.04K4>69:B91:=4?>8,9D -0,@?41@7@=-,9-0,.30>%30 -0>?69:B9:90>1=:89:=?3 ?:>:@?3,=0Jatiúca Ponta Verde Sete Coqueiros,9/ Pajuçara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useu Théo Brandão ,80/,1?0=,7:.,7B=4?0= B3:B=:?0,-:@?7,2:,9 1:76,=?,9/,9?3=:;:7:2D?30 >8,778@>0@83,>,2::/ .:770.?4:9:19,?4A0,=??,7>:

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Pernambuco. 10,000. Recife Guararapes International Airport, 38 miles (60 km) N of town, then bus. (081) 3552 1480.

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Clearwater rock pools offshore from Porto de Galinhas

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Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue Rua do Bom Jesus 197. Tel (081) 3224 2128. 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 3–7pm Sun.

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Pernambuco. 1,500,000. Aeroporto dos Guararapes, 7 miles (11 km) S of city center. 9 miles (14 km) SW of city center. Empetur, (081) 3427 8000. Carnaval (Feb/Mar). www.recife.pe.gov.br

Forte do Brum Praça Comunidade Luso-Brasileira. Tel (081) 3224 4620. 9am– 4:30pm Tue–Fri, 2–5pm Sat & Sun.

The rebuilt Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue

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(;05.)(*2;6 (;,+9(3+,"F6 ,+96+6: 3H90.6:0:65,6-;/,46:; The courtyard of Igreja São Francisco with a graceful, colonnaded arcade 0479,::0=,*/<9*/,:05 ,95(4)<*6;::;90205. -(G(+,0:+6405(;,+)@( Praça da República #/,)<03+05.0:(5,3,.(5; Palácio do Campo das Princesas :;(;<,6-"; ,;,9>/0*/>(: ,?(473,6-*3(::0*047,90(3 (++,+653@9,*,5;3@05 Tel (081) 3425 2416. 9am–5pm (9*/0;,*;<9,4(92,+)@0;: Mon–Fri. Teatro Princesa Isabel Tel &/03,-964;/,6<;:0+,;/, :@44,;90*-694:(5+9,5*/ (081) 3224 1020. Check for >(33:6-;/,*/<9*/3662 (5+ ;(30(5+,*69(;0=,:;@3,: performance timings. Palácio da 7,9-,*;3@:8<(9,(5+:;9(0./; &0;/(+64,:/(7,+ Justiça Tel (081) 3419 3222. 65;/,05:0+,;/,*/<9*/5(=, *<763(;/,Palácio da Justiça 6+,95!,*0-,:4(05*0=0* >(:*65:;9<*;,+05 ;6 0:6*;(.65(3#/,),:;-,(;<9,: 6-;/,*/<9*/(9,0;::;<5505. :8<(9, 9(G(+(!,7J)30*( 4(92;/,79,:0+,5*@6- >66+*(9=05.(5+;/,033< 0:36*(;,+(;;/,;076-"(5;6 ,;J306%(9.(: :0650:;0**,0305.#/,4(05 5;I5060:3(5+"64,6-;/, (3;(9)(3*650,:(5+46:; Igreja São Francisco & *0;@:-05,:;7<)30*)<03+05.: 6-;/,9,4(0505.05;,9069 Capela Dourada *(5),-6<5+/,9, Rua do Imperador, Santo Antônio. ,3,4,5;:>,9,9,56=(;,+ #/, Palácio do Campo das Princesas6=,9569: (3(*, Tel (081) 3224 0530. 8–11am & 05;/, ;/*,5;<9@05;/, 2–5pm Mon–Fri & Sun. )<03+05.>(:)<03;05;/, !6*6*6:;@3,#/,653@ 690.05(370,*,:;/(;9,4(05 5,6-;/,4(169(;;9(*;065: : =,9;/,@,(9:9,56 =(;065:(5+(++0;065:/(=, 05 !,*0-, .9,1("F69(5*0:*6 (9,;/,;>6.63+7(05;,+ >66+,57<370;: :64,>/(;(3;,9,+;/,690.05(3 :,9=,+(:;/,*65=,5;6-;/, #/09+9(5*0:*(59+,9;>(: #/,:8<(9,05-965;6- ,63(::0*(3+,:0.5(5+ 4(+,;/,)<03+05.469, )<03;05 >/,5;/,0:3(5+ ;/,*/<9*/Pátio de São ,*3,*;0* #/,36=,3@05;,9069 Pedro0:65,6-!,*0-,: 6- "(5;6 5;I506653@/(+ .(9+,5>(:+,:0.5,+)@ 46:;767<3(97<)30*:8<(9,:

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0;>(:<:,+(:(94@ (=(03()3,;6;/,7<)30*0: #,9G(,.9(3(*2 #<,:+(@ ;(2,:73(*,,=,9@#<,:+(@ ;/,65,;/96<./;/,>96<./; )(99(*2: !,56=(;065:),.(5 (-;,9;/,9,;<956-;/, 0965-,5*,76:;: 50./; ;0:>0+,3@256>5 -69:/6>*(:05.;@70*(3 9(5*0:*(5: #/,*6<9;@(9+ #/, Teatro Princesa Isabel >(:(++,+>0;/(:<996<5+05. 9,.065(3-969(A030(5 (9,*,5;3@9,56=(;,+7052 ;/,(;,9/6:;:4(5@6-!,*0-,: (9*(+,6-+,30*(;,(5+695(;, 4<:0*(3:;@3,::<*/(: 7904,*<3;<9(3796+<*;065: #<:*(5*63<45:3<,(5+ (5+ For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp378–9 and pp403–405

!

Instituto Ricardo Brennand Av Antônio Brennand, Várzea. Tel (081) 2121 0352. 1–5pm Tue–Sun.

Oficina de Cerâmica

Francisco Brennand Access via Av Caxangá, Várzea. Tel (081) 3271 2623. 8am–6pm Mon–Thu, 8am–6pm Fri.

6<5+,+)@;/,*6<:056- **3(04,+(:;/,46:; *,9(40*(9;0:;9(5*0:*6 <5<:<(3*<3;<9(3(;;9(*;06505 9,55(5+;/,5:;0;<;6 !0*(9+6 9,55(5+05*3<+,:( !,*0-,;/,-0*05(+, ,9E40*(9(5*0:*69,55(5+ :4(33*(:;3,;/,(:;,36"F6 0:;/,-(4,+(9;0:;:7,9:65(3 6F6>0;/(3(9.,*633,*;065 6- <967,(5(9;(50479,: .(33,9@ 9,55(5+) 0: ),:;256>5-69/0: :0=,*633,*;0656- 3(9.,*633,*;0656- 4,+0,=(3(9469@ 7/(330*:/(7,+ (5+>,(765:(5+ *,9(40*:*<37;<9,: Eye-catching ceramic figures and (5,?;,5:0=,(9*/0=, 5,(93@(336->/0*/ souvenirs on sale, Casa da Cultura 6-7(05;05.:(5+ (9,:;90205.76;,5; +6*<4,5;:-964;/, Casa da Cultura (5+3(9.,9;/(530-, @,(9:6-;/,<;*/ Rua Floriano Peixoto s/n, São José. 0:*633,*;0650: *658<,:;6-9(A03 *9,(;0=,3@+0:73(@,+ Tel (081) 3224 7626. 3:6>69;/:,,05. 9am–7pm Mon–Fri, 9am–6pm 05:0+,(*,9(40* 0:;/, 05(*6;,*( *6=,9,+)90*2-(*;69@ Sat, 9am–2pm Sun. .(33,9@;/(;-,(;<9,: (5+0;::<996<5+05. $:,+(:(1(03<5;03 (3(9.,*633,*;0656- .(9+,5:),(<;0-<33@ ;/,-694,97,50;,5;0(9@56> ;/*,5;<9@7(05; 05.:(5++9(>05.: 3(5+:*(7,+)@<93, /6<:,:;/,(:(+(<3;<9( (9?(9,56>5,+ ;/,*0;@:3(9.,:;(9;:(5+*9(-; )@3(5+:*(7,(9;0:;: 3(5+:*(7,(9*/0;,*; 9(5: 6:;(5+ 4(92,; (*/6-;/,63+1(03 *,33:/63+:(:/67:/6>*(:05. 3),9; *2/6<;)6;/ 6-;/, ;/*,5;<9@ Ceramic tiles by :64,6-;/,-05,:;3,(;/,9 6->/64>,9,/09,+ Francisco Brennand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

Gardens in Oficina de Cerâmica Francisco Brennand, adorned with ceramic sculptures

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The view of Olinda from Alto da Sé, with the sea in the background

1 Praça do Carmo

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TIPS FOR WALKERS Starting point: Secretaria de Turismo, Praça do Carmo. Walking time: 2–3 hours. Flat, non-slippery footwear is best. Best days: Tue–Sat. Museums are only open in the morning. Places to eat: Oficina do Sabor, Rua do Amparo 335; Olinda Sorvetes e Sucos, Rua São Bento 358.

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Pernambuco. 380,000. Recife International Airport. Largo do Amparo, (081) 3439 9434. Carnaval (Feb/ Mar); Olinda Arte em Toda Parte, open house event of artists’ studios (late Nov–early Dec). www.olindaarteemtodaparte. com.br

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

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Key to Symbols see back flap

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Museu de Arte

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Contemporânea Rua 13 de Maio. Tel (081) 3429 2587. 9am–noon Tue–Fri, 2–5pm Sat & Sun.

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The exterior of Igreja e Mosteiro de São Bento in Olinda

Convento de São Francisco Rua de São Francisco 280. Tel (081) 3429 0517. 7am–noon & 2–5pm Mon–Fri, 7am–noon Sat.

$0-76>-6<7,-#H7 :)6+1;+7?);<0-.1:;<+76 >-6<*=14<*A<0-:)6+1;+)6 7:,-:16:)B14 $0-+7584-@ 16+4=,-;) +0=:+07;;) #-607:),);->-; =: ),A7.<0-#67?)6,<0- ),2)+-6<+0)8-4;7.#< 66)6, #< "79=-*=14<16 )6,

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Igreja e Mosteiro de São Bento Rua São Bento. Tel (081) 3429 3288. 9–11am & 2–5pm Mon– Sat. 6:30am Mon–Sat, 10am & 6pm Sun (with Gregorian chants).

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THE OLINDA CARNAVAL

Revelers filling a street in Olinda, with larger-than-life papier-mâché puppets

>-:AA-):,=:16/):6)>)4<0-+7**4-;<76-,;<:--<;7. 416,)*-+75-<0-;<)/-.7:)?--3476/;<:--<8):-<0-5-;7:6)5-;;=+0);C&1:/16;E C4-80)6<E7:C1,61/0<)6E7516)<16/<0-.-;<1>1<1-; ):--67:57=;8)81-:5G+0J8=88-<;<0)< 5-5*-:; 8:7=,4A+)::A)476/<0-8):),-:7=<-$0-5=;1+>):1-; .:75)6=8*-)<)457;<.:-6-<1+*-)<=619=-<7 !-:6)5*=+7<7 )5=+057:-.:1+)6*-)<

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p378–9 and p403–405

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Pernambuco. 16,000. from Recife. www.itamaraca.pe.gov.br

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Pottery on display at a craft shop in Caruaru

;<144;8-+1)41B-;168:7,=+16/ .1/=:16-; Casa Museu Mestre Vitalino164<7,77=:)1; ,-,1+)<-,<7<01;/:-)<):<1;< )6,,1;84)A;01;<774;)6, ;75-8-:;76)487;;-;;176;

Forte Orange ):=):=;78-65):3-<1;<0- Estrada do Forte. 9am–5pm 4):/-;<16<0-7:<0-);<)6,1; Mon–Sat, 8am–5pm Sun. )>-:A878=4):<7=:1;< Projeto Peixe Boi )<<:)+<176-;1,-;.1/=:16-; Estrada do Forte Orange. 4-)<0-:*)/;;<:)?*);3-<; Tel (081) 3544 1835. )6,+-:)51+87<;):-)4;7 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. ;74,)<;75-7.<0-*-;<8:1+-; 16:)B148):<.:75 )*=;<416/5):3-< ;+-6-):=):= 367?6);<0- +)81<)47.! Pernambuco. 300,000. 07;<; from Recife. Festa do Forró :)B14;4):/-;< (Jun–Jul). www.caruaru.pe.gov.br 576<0476/! 7+)<-, 514-; 35 .-;<1>)4$0-Museu 76<0-5)164)6,;7=<0?-;<7. do Barro8)A; <)5):)+F ):=):=1;)5):3-< <:1*=<-<7=1; <7?6?07;-.)5-:-;<;761<; 76B)/)<0- Figurine, Casa 5):>-47=;+-:)51+ .)<0-:7.! Museu Mestre Vitalino 5=;1+ .1/=:16-; :<1;<&1<)4167 !-::-1:),7;#)6<7; D Environs 5),-5)6A7.<0-;-*:1/0<4A #1<=)<-, 514-; 35 8)16<-,;+=48<=:-;)6,01; 075-<7?6 4<7,-7=:)) 67:<0?-;<7.):=):= +755=61
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Casa Museu

Mestre Vitalino Praça Cel. José de Vasconcelos 100, Centro,Caruaru. 8am–5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun.

Rehabilitated manatees at the Projeto Peixe Boi, Ilha de Itamaracá

Museu do Barro Praça José de Vasconcelos. Tel (081) 3721 0012. 8am–5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun.

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Baía do Sancho Spinner Dolphins Turtle Hatchlings Praia da Atalaia

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Pernambuco. from Recife. 2,500. Divisão de Turismo, Palácio São Miguel, Vila dos Remédios (081) 3619 1352, or Projecto Tamar, Alameda do Boldró (081) 3619 1171. environmental tax assessed on all visitors to the island; to be paid on arrival at the airport. License required for scuba diving in national parks. www. fernandodenoronha.pe.gov.br

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A school of surgeon fish in the coral reefs of Fernando de Noronha

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View of the Rio Branco and João Pessoa, Paraíba

Jangadas (fishing boats) and fishing nets, Canoa Quebrada, Ceará

228

N O R T H E A S T

B R A Z I L

Exploring Paraiba, Rio Grande do Norte & Ceara IP Most visitors to the states of Paraiba, Rio Grande do Norte, and Ceara focus on the natural beauty of the beaches and the coastline. The most popular gateway destinations are Natal in Rio Grande and Fortaleza in Ceara, with easy access to most of the region's attractions. Paraiba's capital, Joao Pessoa, with its colonial buildings, parks, and beaches, is a pleasant place to visit. In the interior of Paraiba, the monster rock formations in Cariri offer an almost other-worldly experience. Dinosaur fossils, discovered in Souza, have made the place archaeologically important. The harsh, arid interior landscape of these states has a unique, stark beauty. SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Towns & Cities Campina Grande 0 Fortaleza pp242-3 0

PARQUE NACIONAL

Genipabu 0 Joao Pessoa pp230-31 O

Mossoro 0 Natal 0 Souza 0 National Parks Parque Nacional de Ubajara 0 Areas of Natural Beauty Canoa Quebrada 0 Cariri 0 Costa Branca 0 Jericoacoara Maracajau 0

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Beaches & Resorts Rota do Sol Beachesp23

Where to Stay pp379-81 Where to Eat pp405-406 Downtown Joao Pessoa from across the lagoon

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Colorful old buildings in the historic center of Fortaleza

am ' FORTALEZA

GETTING AROUND All major cities and some smaller destinations, such as Campina Grande in Paraiba, can be reached by domestic flights. There are regular buses between all towns and cities. However, roads in this part of Brazil are in poor condition and are very badly maintained. The BR-101 connects Joao Pessoa to Natal. From Natal, travelers continuing north to Fortaleza take the BR-304, which veers west and cuts inland across Rio Grande do Norte to Ceara. The stretch of the BR-230 towards Souza is in rough shape. Ensure that the vehicle, preferably a 4\X'T), is in good condition. Be sure to carry extra gas, water, and supplies.

Sao Bento do Norte Touros

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Old majestic colonial buildings lining a street, Centro Histórico

Exploring João Pessoa

3*4+8-*41)*78&3)1*77 )*:*145*)(.8.*7.36&>.1 4A4*774&-&7&72&11 -.7846.((46*;-.(-6*2&.37 1.881*(-&3,*))*75.8*8-* 24)*63.>&8.43)6.:*8.7 14(&8*)&'.8.31&3)43& 72&11-.114:*61440.3,8-* .4 !&3-&9@&3) .4&6&C'& 4)*634A4*774&;.8-+&78 *2*6,.3,70=7(6&5*67,6&:. 8&8*784;&6)78-*'*&(-*7 9*84&78&8*1&;6*786.(8.3, 8-*-*.,-84+'9.1).3,7;.8-.3 +8 24+8-*7-46* 1.3*84+4967846.*7461*77 8-*;&8*6+6438.7+6**4+8-* (968&.3;&114+(43(6*8*-.,- 6.7*78-&8&++1.(8742*48-*6 6&>.1.&3'*&(-+64387

Igreja de São Francisco Praça São Francisco, Centro Histórico. Tel (083) 3218 4505. 9am–noon & 2–5pm Tue–Sun.

3*4+8-*247875*(8&(91&6 (-96(-*7.38-*(.8=7.87 2&/*78.(&11=&845&-.118-&8 '*&678-*7&2*3&2*"-* 2478786.0.3,+*&896*4+8-.7 .256*77.:* 8-(*3896= (-96(-.78-*84;*68455*) ;.8-&346.*38&1)42*"-* &18&6(438&.37&3 8-(*3896= 78&89*4+!8 *3*).(843*4+ 8-*+*;'1&(07&.387"-* '*&98.+91 4(4(478=1*

5&.38.3,438-*(*.1.3,4+8-* (-96(-)*5.(87:&6.497.2&,*7 4+ !86&3(.7:*341)*68-&3 8-*(-96(-'=&+*;)*(&)*7 .7&7843*(6477&(64778-* (4968=&6) "-*(-96(-.75&68 4+8-*1&6,*6*386491896&1 )* !&46&3(.7(4(4251*< ;-.(-&174.3(19)*78-* 43:*384)*!&384 38D3.4 (-&5*17&3)&297*924+ 54591&6&3)7&(6*)&688-* 6*79184+,6&3)7(&1*6*+4627 (&66.*)498.3 &3) Mosteiro de São Bento Rua General Osório, Centro Histórico. on request Mon–Sat. 7am.

9.18.38-* 8-(*3896=8-.7 ;460.3,243&78*6=.7& 7-.3.3,*<&251*4+7.251.(.8= 8793*2'*11.7-*);*11 6*7846*).38*6.46+*&896*7& (96:*);44)*3(*.1.3, Praia de Tambaú 4 miles (7 km) E of city center.

4A4*774&7247854591&6 96'&3'*&(-.76&.&)* "&2'&E& 2.1*02 143,786*8(-4+7&3)1.3*) ;.8-6*78&96&387(&+B7&3) .38*6*78.3,+44)&3)(6&+8 78&117 38-**:*3.3,714(&17 7864118-*7*&;&11*3/4=.3, 8-*(441'6**>*

Basílica de Nossa Praia do Cabo Branco S of Praia do Tambaú.

Senhora das Neves Rua General Osório, Centro. Tel (083) 3221 2503. 2–5pm Mon–Fri, 5– 7pm Sat. 5pm Mon–Fri; 7:30pm Sat; 6am, 9am & 7:30pm Sun.

+8*6+4962&/466*34:&8.437 1.881*6*2&.374+8-*46.,.3&1 (&8-*)6&1'9.18.3 "-* .38*6.462&.38&.37&786.0.3, -&6243=931.0*2&3=4+ 8-**1&'46&8* 4(4(478=1* (-96(-*7.36&>.1

Façade of Igreja de São Francisco, João Pessoa’s celebrated church

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp379–81 and pp405–406

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(89&11=&1&6,*(46&16**+ 1-&)*.(A4>.3-4.7& 54591&67548814;8.)* '4&87)*5&68+6426&.&)4 "&2'&E&3)8&0*:.7.8467 4:*6847;.2&3)73460*1.3 8-*3&896&18.)*54417.7- &3)78&6+.7-(&3'**&7.1= 4'7*6:*).38-*(6=78&1(1*&6 ;&8*6-*(08-*8.)*8&'1*+46 75*(.+.(8.2*7)&.1='*+46* 8&0.3,&).546&+*;)&=7 *:*6=2438-8-*8.)*.7844 -.,-+468-*6**+84'*:.7.8*)

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Paraíba. 650,000.

7 miles (11 km) W of city center. Rodoviária at Rua Francisco Londres, Varadouro. Sectur, Centro do Turismo, (083) 3218 9852.

Praia Tambaba 19 miles (30 km) S of town.

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Ilha de Areia Vermelha 12 miles (20 km) N of town.

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Low tide at the expansive Ilha de Areia Vermelha

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Paraíba. 400,000. from João Pessoa. Praça Clementino Procópio, (083) 3251 7717. Festas Juninas (Jun), Micarande (late Apr).

'($/)25(;3(5,(1&,1*7+( 81,48( (')2%&8/785( $03,1$5$1'(,6$/$5*( 0$5.(772:1:,7+620( '(*5((2),1'8675,$/*52:7+ !+($87801+$59(67)(67,9$/ (67$681,1$6$/7+28*+ &(/(%5$7('(9(5<:+(5(,1 7+(257+($67,6%,**(67,1 $03,1$5$1'(!+(9$67 385326(%8,/7)$,5*5281' Parque do Povo,1&/8'(6 6(9(5$/60$//(57+(0(3$5.6 68&+$67+( D7,2 C22C2$ 5(352'8&7,212)$75$',7,21$/ 5$1&+:+(5(9,6,7256&$1 2%6(59(7+(585$/$%'() /,)(67
Parque do Povo Tel (083) 3310 6100. only during Festas Juninas.

The Lajedo do Pai Mateus rock formation, Cariri

Paraíba. from Campina Grande. Cariri Ecotours, (084) 3234 4046.

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A night scene of Campina Grande, lit up during the Festas Juninas

FESTAS JUNINAS 1(2)7+(02673238/$5)2/./25(75$',7,2162)7+( 257+($677+((67$681,1$6%(*$1$6$3($6$17&(/(%5$ 7,212)7+(&251+$59(67$1'7+(81(62/67,&(7+(/21*(67 1,*+72)7+(<($5,17+( 287+(51(0,63+(5(81($/62 &2,1&,'(':,7+7+()($6762) 717+21< 72+1$1' 7(7(59(57+(<($567+(3$*$15,78$/6$1'$7+2/,& (9(176:(5(0(/'('72*(7+(5!+($70263+(5(,6%85/(648( $63$57,(56'5(6683,13($6$17287),76$1'3(5)250648$5( '$1&(6727+(6281'62)%''3 (& 21),5(6$5(/,7 $1'),5(:25.66(17$/2)7726$)(*8$5'7+(+$59(67$1':$5' 2))(9,/63,5,76$6:(//$672%5,1*/,*+7727+(/21*1,*+7 For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp379–81 and pp405–406

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Paraíba. 60,000. from Campina Grande. Manary Ecotours, (084) 2192 900.

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Aerial view of a palm-lined beach resort in Natal

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View of the small chapel in the central courtyard of the Forte dos Reis Magos

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp379–81 and pp405–406

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Rio Grande do Norte. at low tide only.

&7&(&/&G8(47&17**+8 4++*743*4+9-*'*8985498 +4783470*1.3,&143,9-* <-41*4+7&?.183479-(4&89 #-*7**+81.*&5574=.2&9*1>

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Tourists enjoying a buggy ride on the white sand dunes in Genipabu For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp379–81 and pp405–406

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Sailboats, known as jangadas, on Tibaú beach, one of the beach-villages along Costa Branca

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Ceará. 65,300. from Fortaleza. Secretaría de Turismo, (088) 3446 2451. www. canoaviagem.com.br

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Beach along the fishing village of Jericoacoara

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Red sandstone cliffs in and around the beaches of Canoa Quebrada For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp379–81 and pp405–406

Ceará. 2,000. from Fortaleza. www.jericoacoara.com

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The spectacular Ubajara Cave in Parque Nacional de Ubajara

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Ceará. from Fortaleza. Secretaría de Turismo, (088) 3634 2288; Park Headquarters, (088) 3634 1388. 9am–2:30pm Tue–Sun.

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514-; 357. =6<7=+0-,;)6, Dune buggy in Canoa Quebrada

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Museu do Ceará Rua São Paulo 51. Tel (085) 3101 2606. 8:30am–5pm Tue–Sun.

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Forte Nossa Senhora da Assunção Rua Maestro Alberto Nepomuceno 250. Tel (085) 3255 1600. 8am– 4:30pm Mon–Sat, 8am–noon Sun.

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Brightly painted colonial buildings lining the streets

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Teatro José de Alencar Praça José de Alencar s/n. Tel (085) 3101 2583. 8am–5pm Mon–Fri, 8am–noon Sat.

Centro de Turismo Rua Senador Pompeu 350. Tel (085) 3488 7411. 7am–6pm Mon–Sat, 7am–noon Sun.

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Statue of Iracema waiting for her lover

Praia de Iracema

Praia de Meireles

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Ceará. 2.3 million. 4 miles (6 km) S of town. (085) 3256 2100. Secretaría do Turismo, Centro Administrativo Vírgilio Tàvora, (085) 3101 4672. daily craft market at Meireles beach. Fortal (Jul), Regata de Jangadas (Jul), Semana do Folclore (Aug). www.fortaleza.ce.gov.br

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Mesmerizing sand dunes of Lençóis Maranhenses in Maranhão

Festa do Divino celebrations in Alcântara, Maranhão

246

N O R T H E A S T

B R A Z I L

Exploring Piaui & Maranhao Most of Piaui's attractions are a long way from the coast. The Serra da Capivara is one of the largest archaeological sites in the world, containing more than 30,000 prehistoric rock paintings. The only important destination on Piaui's tiny 41-mile (66-km) coastline is the town of Parnaiba. It sits at the edge of the Delta do Parnaiba, one of the largest deepwater river deltas in the world, and a new ecotourism destination. Most of the delta itself lies in Maranhao. Its capital, Sao Luis, rivals Salvador Be/em \ for its collection of restored colonial homes and Camiranga~ heritage buildings. Outside of Sao Luis, the biggest draw is a spectacular region of stark REENTRANCIAS , beauty in the form of coastal sand dunes MARANHENSES ' known as Lencois Maranhenses. SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Towns & Cities Alcantara 0 Sao Luispp252-4 Q Teresina O National Parks & Areas of Natural Beauty Delta do Parnaiba & Parque National dos Lenfois Maranhenses pp250-51 O

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Parque Nacional de Serra da Capivara pp248-9 Q

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The beautiful pristine Cabure beach at Lenc.6is Maranhenses

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GETTING AROUND The Sao Luis airport in Maranhao has international flights, and Piaufs capital city Teresina can be reached by flights en route to Sao Luis. There are buses linking almost every town in this region, but roads are in very poor condition. It is also possible to rent a car. The inland attractions of Piaui are far from Teresina, and from each other, so travel well equipped with plenty of gas, water, and supplies. Most of Maranhao's highlights are on the coast. The Lencois Maranhenses are best accessed from Barreirinhas, located just on the edge of the Lencois Maranhenses National Park. From Sao Luis, it is a 45-minute flight in a single-engine plane, or a four-hour drive. Once there, most excursions are by boat or in a 4\X'T), as there are no paved roads in the region.

ftPARQUE NACIONAL DE SERRA DA CAPIVARA Sao Raimundo Nonato /Brasilia 0 kilometers 0 miles

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SEE ALSO

Where to Stay p381 Where to Eat pp406^i07

Colonial-style houses and Ponte Jose Sarney, Sao Luis

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Piauí. 775,000. Piemtur, (086) 3221 7100. www.teresina.pi.gov.br

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p381 and pp406–407

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Trails leading up to rock formations at Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades

Maranhão. from Teresina. Ibama Office, Centro de Visitantes, (086) 3343 1342. 8am–5pm daily. Parque Hotel Sete Cidades, (086) 3223 3366.

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Coronel José Dias, Piauí. from Teresina to São Raimundo Nonato, then taxi. Museu de Homem Americano, Bairro Campestre, São Raimundo Nonato, (089) 3582 1612. 7am–5pm daily. Best time to visit is from March to June. valid for three days. tour groups up to a maximum of 10 people.

Hotel Serra da Capivara, Santa Luiza, (089) 3582 1389.

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STAR SIGHTS

Queimada dos Britos Scarlet Ibis Lençóis

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Piauí/Maranhão. from Teresina to Delta do Parnaíba & Lençóis Maranhenses. from Lençóis Maranhenses to Barreirinhas, then to Caburé. Casa do Turismo, Porto das Barcas, Parnaíba, (086) 3321 1969; Ecotrilha, Av Joaquim de Cavalho 682, Barreirinhas, (098) 3349 0372. Giltur Rua Montanha Russa 22, São Luís. Tel (086) 231 7065. Barreirinhas. www. parquelencois.com.br

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A row of colorful houses along one of the streets in São Luís

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

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Maranhão. Central de Serviços Turisticos, (098) 3212 6211. www.turismo.ma.gov.br/ en/ Casa das Tulhas Rua de Estrela. Tel (098) 231 6766. 8am–6pm daily. Palácio dos Leões Av Dom Pedro II. 3–6pm Mon, Wed & Fri.

KEY Suggested route

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Cafua das Mercês Jacinto Maia 43. 9am–6pm Mon–Fri. Casa do Maranhão

#.+ José Sarney 7/*-+1+'*8 Rua do Trapiche s/n. Tel (098) 3231 1557. 1–7pm Mon–Fri, #.+7/).'3**/;+78+./8947/)'1 ,7429.++3974/89G7/)4 9am–6pm Sat & Sun. )+39+74,"C4 :F82'0+8/9 /3949.+3+<+75'7984,9.+ Centro de Cultura Popular /*+'1,4794:7/3-43,449#./8 )/9> )74889.+(7/*-+1/+8 /89.+41*+895'794,9.+)/9> "C47'3)/8)49.+)/9>882'11 Rua do Giz 221. Tel (098) 3318 9924. 9am–7pm Tue–Sun. 034<3/39+7).'3-+'(1>'89.+ )+397'1(:8/3+88*/897/)9:89 (+>43* "C47'3)/8)49.+7+ 7'/'7'3*+9.+!+;/;+7 /8'1'7-+,7+8.<'9+71'0+ '3*9.+Centro Histórico 9.+ '-4'*+'38+3 119.+)/9>82:8+:28 )/7)1+*(>'(4'7*<'10 '3*(+':9/,:11>57+8+7 Maranhão. 6,000. from São ;+*./8947/)8/9+8'7+ )/9>82489/39+7+89/3- 545:1'751')+94897411 :89')7488,742"C4 :F8 /39.++;+3/3-8"C4 2:8+:284,,+7/3-9<4 1)B39'7'1/+8439.+49.+7 :F8/8(1+88+* (+').+8'114, '7)48#.+)/9><'8,4:3*+* +=51'/39.++89'*4 Cazumba figure, :2('2+:(4/ (>9.+ 479:-:+8+/39.+ Casa do Maranhão <./).)'3(++'8/1> #.+ Centro de '))+88+*(>(:8,742 8'3*:8+*'8'9+254 Cultura Popular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afua das .'8-74<3/394'.:-+)'73/;'1 Mercês'184034<3'89.+ +86:+,+89/;'13 /3)1:*/3-2:8/)'1/3897:2+398 "C4 :F8'143+247+9.'3 A colorful celebration of the Bumba-meu-boi festival '3*97/('1'79<470'3*8/3/89+7 -74:589'0+949.+897++98 944184,9.+81';+97'*+8:). 5'5/+72B).E(:11/8)7+'9+* '88.')01+8'3*/3897:2+398 +').>+'7'3**/851'>+*/37':)4:85'7'*+8<.+7+5'79/)/ 4,9479:7+3+4,9.+247+ 5'3989'0+439.+741+84,2+*/)/3+2+33*/'385+'8'398 54/-3'39243:2+398/89.+ '3*)4<(4>8#.+1'7-+89)+1+(7'9/4389'0+51')+/39.+ +14:7/3.4479.+<./55/3- 8+)43*.'1,4,:3+#.+2:8/)/8:5(+'9'3*1/;+1>/39.+ */,,+7+39-74:58:8/3-*/,,+7+397.>9.28'3*/3897:2+398 2:8+:28)+397'1)4:79>'7* Exploring São Luís

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p381 and pp406–407

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Pillory, restored mansions, and ruin of a church in Alcântara

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Maranhão. from São Luís to Cururupu from Cururupu. Sematur, Praça Joao Lisboa 328, São Luís, (098) 3232 2098.

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NORTHERN BRAZIL

INTRODUCING NORTHERN BRAZIL 258263 PARÁ & AMAPÁ 264275 AMAZONAS, RORAIMA, ACRE & RONDÔNIA 276289

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Ashaninka women weave cotton cloth

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Fishing boats moored at the old harbor near Ver o Peso market, Belém

A view of the magnificent interior of Basílica de Nossa Senhora do Nazaré, Belém

266

N O R T H E R N

B R A Z I L

Exploring Para & Amapa P

Even with their widespread rainforest canopy, which can only be seen clearly from the air, it is ocean and river travel that have long been the hallmark of Para and Amapa states. The sights include the tasteful, recently restored historic buildings of Belem in Para, along the verdant forest-edged Amazon river, as well as splendid riverine beaches such as Alter do Chao, close to Santarem, and those found on the Ilha de Marajo. Macapa, the capital of Amapa, with its refreshing sea breeze, was founded around the Forte de Sao Jose. It lies on the equator in a strategic position on the north side of the Amazon river estuary. More than half of the state is under environmental protection.

Corner tower, Fortaleza de Sao Jose de Macapa, Macapa

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Towns & Cities Belem pp268-9 O Macapa O Monte Alegre O Obidos O Salinopolis O Santarem 0 Areas of Natural Beauty Ilha de Marajo O

a braga Itaituba Uua Nova/7 J?P \ Bacibal °f

Sem Tri

"Tucupare K Entre Ri-"

Ferries moored on the shore of Rio Tapajos, Santarem, Para

For additional map symbols see back flap

\Sobrado

PARA

&

AMAPA

267

1

Mountains of fresh fruit at Ver o Peso market, Belem

GETTING AROUND Rivers are the transport arteries of Para, where virtually every village has some form of riverboat service. There are regular riverboat services connecting Belem, Macapa, and Santarem. XX'liile there are very few bus routes in Para, most access is by road in Amapa. However, the roads are mainly unsurfaced, and bus travel during the rainy season can be treacherous in both states. Air services are widespread. Belem and Macapa can be reached from most cities in Brazil by air. There are daily flights from Belem to most places in the Amazon.

KEY Major road =

Minor road Railroad International border

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Cannon on display at the 17thcentury Forte do Castelo

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Ships docked on the waterfront at the Ver o Peso market

Ver o Peso Av Castilhos França. 6am–2pm daily.

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9-(*39:7>5&.39.3,8 Teatro da Paz Praça da República. Tel (091) 3224 7355. 9:30–11am, 12:30– 2:30pm & 4–5pm Tue–Fri; 9:30– 12:30pm Sat.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p382 and p407

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Pará. 1,387,000. 7 miles (12 km) N of town. Av G. José Malcher, (091) 3266 2625.

from Macapá, Manaus & Santarém. Radiotaxi Aguia, (091) 3276 4000. Belémtur, Av G. José Malcher, (091) 3282 4852; Paratur, Praça Waldemar Henrique, (091) 3212 0669. Círio de Nazaré (Oct, 2nd Sun).

-45*8&3)<.8-*8+479-* >*&7&7*,7&39*)!-*'&8.1.(& &184-4:8*89-*Museu Círio de Nazaré)*;49*)949-*(:19 4+9-*E7.4<-.(-*=-.'.98 4;*7 5.*(*87*1&9.3,94 9-*7*1.,.4:8+*89.;&1

Basílica de Nossa

Senhora de Nazaré Praça Justo Chermont. Tel (091) 3241 8894. 6:30–11:30am & 3–6pm daily. Museu Círio de Nazaré 9am–6pm Tue–Fri.

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Pará. 40,000. Belém Val de Caes Airport, 110 miles (180 km) SE of town, then bus. Av Miguel Santa Brigada. Paratur (091) 3423 2203.

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A secluded beach near Souré, Ilha de Marajó

)?)A&0-:-):-6757<7:1B-, >-01+4-;16<0->144)/-7:76 )1)6,-=)1;4)6,),,16/<7 <0-:-57<-)6,1,A441+.--4 4-+<:1+116/ &0-5)16*-)+0.7:<0- >144)/-1;<0-Praia da Vila do Algodoal 7:-878=4): 07?->-:1;<0-8)45.:16/-, Praia da Princesa do Farol) ;=8-:*;<:-<+07.;)6, ;-+4=,-,.:75<0-5)16*-)+0 *A);07:1;)*4-<7+)::A),-9=)<- +);0<7>1;1<<0-1;4)6,;16+- <0-:-):-67*)63;7:& ;

POTTERY ON ILHA DE MARAJÓ 6 )6<0:78747/1;<;-<)6; ,1;+7>-:-,)4):/-8)16<-,)6<0:7 8757:801+>-;;-47640),- ):)2H &0-)6+1-6<160)*1<)6<;<0- ):)27):);4-.<*-016,67<764A *=:1)457=6,;;75-)457;< A-):;74,*=<)4;7;75->-:A.16- +-:)51+;4-),16/):+0)-747/1;<;<7 *-41->-<0)<*-
<0+-6<=:1-;<0-:-?-:-;7801; Marajó pottery displayed <1+)<-,;7+1-<1-;41>16/)476/<0- in Museu Goeldi, Belém *)63;7.<0-5)B76:1>-: @+)>)<176;:->-)4<0)<<0-,-), ?-:-*=:1-,16416-)++7:,16/<7<0-1:;7+1)4:)6316/?1<0 4):/-:=:6;16,1+)<16/01/0-:;<)<=; 7;<7.<0-;-+-:)51+; :-8:-;-6<16/)*;<:)+<.-51616-.1/=:-;,-576;<:)<-<0- 5)<:1416-)46)<=:-7.<01;-):4A5)B761)6;7+1-);-;;816,4- ?07:4;)6,;<774;&0-4):/-:=:6;/-6-:)44A<773<0:-- 5)16.7:5;0=5)671,+A+416,:1+)4)6,:7=6,)6, ):7=6, ,1..-:-6<.161;016/<-+0619=-;):-367?6<7 0)>-*--6=<141B-,%75--@+-44-6<-@)584-;7.<0-=:6; +)6*-.7=6,16<0- =;-=7-4,116-4G5 For hotels and restaurants in this region see p382 and p407

Pará. 250,000. from Belém to Porto Camará. Trapiche Municipal, Rua 1, Souré, (091) 3741 2223.

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Amapá. 325,000. from Belém. Bairro São Lázaro, (096) 3251 2009. Detur, Rua Vinga Uchôa 29, Centro, (096) 3251 1275. O Marabaixo (May).

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A replica of a typical indigenous home, Museu SACACA, Macapá

&0-;-,)A; )+)8E1;<0- +:).<;4-)<0-:/77,;+):>-, +)81<)47.)8:7/:-;;1>-;<)<- ?77,-6;<)<=-;)6,)44 7447?16/<0--4-+<1767. 6)<=:)45-,1+16-; <0--6>1:765-6<)41;<7F7 &0- ):+7(-:7576=5-6< )81*-:1*-);;<)<-/7>-:67: )4):/-7*-41;3+=5;=6,1)4 16 ;=++-;;1>-/7>-:67:; 514-;35;7=<0?-;<7. <0-+1-3-8<<0- 5):3;<0- ;81:1<7.-6>1:76 5-6<)41;5)41>- -9=)<7:1)4416- "6-8:-;-6< 76>-61,) 8:72-+<1;<7 9=)<7:1)4 +766-+<)44<0- Wooden artifact, ;87:<;;<),1=5 ;<)<-;8:7<-+<-,):-); Museu SACACA )6, ?1<0?14,41.-7:*17 )4;7.7:58):<7. ,1>-:;1-4785-6< São José de Macapá 2=;<);07:<,1;<)6+-;7=<0 Av Candido Mendes. Tel (096) 3212 7.<0-<7?6+-6<-:7..-:; 5118. 9am–6pm Tue–Sun. .);+16)<16//=1,-,<7=:;7. Mercado dos :-841+) :1>-: Produtos da Floresta ,?-44-:07=;-; Rua São José 1500. Tel (096) 9961 &0- Mercado dos Produtos 0913. 8am–6pm Mon–Fri. da Floresta7..-:;)?1,- Museu SACACA :)6/-7.47+)4):<)6,+:).< Av Feliciano Coelho, 1509. /77,;:)6/16/.:75 Tel (096) 3212 5361. 9am–6pm +-:)51+;,=;<-,?1<05)6 Tue–Sun. /)6-;-7:-<716,1/-67=;

Buildings inside the Fortaleza de São José de Macapá Wooden house on stilts, with a horse standing in the water-logged paddock in front, Ilha de Marajó, Pará

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Pará. 200,000. from Docas do Pará (W of center). Amazon Planet, (093) 3527 1172; Santarém Tour, (093) 3522 4847.

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Belterra, a rubber plantation set up by John Ford in the 1930s

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#.+9+:5=49'8+ '))+99/(2+(?(5':,853 2:+8*5.H5 A surfer catching the “Pororoca” tidal wave

Museu de Arte

Sacra de Santarém Rua Siqueira Campos 439, Centro. Tel (093) 3523 0658. 8am–5pm Mon–Fri. Museu de Santarém Rua do Imperador, Praça de Santarém. 8am–5pm Mon–Fri. donation expected.

Pará. 47,000. from Santarém. Rua Guiamarães, (091) 3547 1766.

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Pará. 23,500. Rua do Jaquara 320, (091) 3533 1430.

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Boats moored along the waterfront in Óbidos, with rows of houses in the background

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Village huts surrounded by tall palm tree plantations in Acre

Virgin forests and a meandering tributary of the Rio Negro, Amazonas

278

N O R T H E R N

B R A Z I L

Exploring Amazonas, Roraima, Acre & Rondonia IP This region offers the ultimate rainforest experience. Most people travel here to explore the dense forests, picturesque river islands, and tranquil waterways. The sights include Manaus, the legendary capital city of Amazonas, which offers much architectural and cultural interest. Also located in Amazonas is the Mamiraua Reserve, Brazil's first sustainable development reserve. The secluded and beautiful mountains of Roraima are worth a visit, as is Acre, with its natural beauty, history, and seringueiro (rubbertapping) culture. Porto Velho, the capital of Rondonia, overlooking the Amazon's longest tributary, the mighty Rio Madeira, is a lively place to visit. Riverboat excursions on the Rio Madeira are a good way to idle away a few hours and spot a few pink dolphins.

Towns & Cities

Boa Vista Q Manauspp280-83 O Parintins O Porto Velho O Rio Branco O 0 kilometers

200

GETTING AROUND Joining an organized tour with one of the companies in Manaus, Boa Vista, Porto Velho, or Rio Branco is the best way to see the Amazon jungle. Most companies offer accommodation in tourist lodges and travel by a combination of road and riverboat or canoe. For those who want to travel independently, it is possible to move around the jungle on local riverboats. Road travel is also possible from all cities. Manaus, for instance, is only 6 hours by bus from Novo Airao, on the Rio Negro, where it is possible to bathe in jungle rivers and swim with pink dolphins.

For additional map symbols see back flap

Caimans peering above the water of Rio Amazonas near Manaus

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Visitors exploring the forest near Manaus

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do Norte Av 7 de Setembro 1385. Tel (092) 3232 5373. 8am–noon & 1–5pm Mon–Fri.

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The Rio Negro with the Porto Flutante (Floating Port) and the Catedral Metropolitana in the background For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp383–4 and p408

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Museu do Índio Rua Duque de Caxias 356. 8am–noon & 2–5pm Mon–Fri, 8am–noon Sat.

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Amazonas. 1,593,000. Rua Recife 2784, (092) 642 5805. Porto Flutuante. Festival Folclórico do Amazonas (Jun); Manaus Opera Festival (Apr/May). www.manausonline.com

Zoológico do CIGS Estrada Ponta Negra 750. Tel (092) 3625 2282. 9am–4:30pm Tue– Sun.

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Traditional indigenous longhouse at the Museu do Índio

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The Painted Curtain The Cupola The Four Painted Pillars For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp383–4 and p408

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Praça São Sebastião, Manaus. Tel (092) 3622 2420. 9am– 4pm Mon–Sat. Shows Opera, theater & dance performances through the year.

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Anavilhanas 60 miles (90 km) NW of Manaus. Amazonastur, Rua H. de Figueiredo, Manaus, (092) 3233 1095.

The Rio Urubuí and Cachoeira Iracema near Presidente Figueireido

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Presidente Figueiredo 62 miles (100 km) N of Manaus. Centro Turistico, (092) 3321 1158.

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Aerial view of the Rio Negro winding through the Amazon

;4/4.'(/:+*/92'4*9 Novo Airão 71 miles (115 km) W of Manaus. 9:8+:)./4-,58358+:.'4 3/2+9 13+6+4*/4-54 from Manaus. from Manaus. Ibama Rua Ministro João Gonçalves :.+9+'954'4*:/3+5,*'? de Souza s/n, Manaus. Tel (092) /:/96599/(2+:59++)'/3'49 3613 3080. Parque Nacional Jaú 925:.994'1+9,85-9'4*' Tel (092) 3613 3277. =/*+8'4-+5,(/8*96+)/+9 ".+93'22:5=45,5<5/8E5 !68'=2+*')8599'4'8+'5, /925)':+*54:.+=+9:+849/*+

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Encontro das Aguas from Manaus.

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Meeting of the Rio Solimões and Rio Negro at Encontro das Aguas

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(?4'885=)8++19./**+4 '354-,58+9:9,;225,925:.9 3541+?9'4*)5258,;245/9? :856/)'2(/8*9#.+8/<+8'4* 2'1+5,,+8:.+56658:;4/:?:5 9++(5:.6/41'4*-8'?8/<+8 *526./49'9=+22'9-5 6/8'4.' ,/9./4-+'8(?:.+ '-58'8'/9-8+':,58,/9./4- '4*.53+:5'6/41*526./4 ,++*/4--85;4*#.+25)'2 6+562+145=4'9 Limpid blue sky mirrorred in the clear waters of Lago Mamori .'<+(++4.+8+,58-+4+8 ':/549'4*2/<+/49)'::+8+* '8+'54+:.+2+99,/9./4- Lago Manaquiri 8/<+89/*+)533;4/:/+9 8+3'/49:.+3'/4'):/
.53+9)'4(+ 8+-/9:+8+*=/:.:.+8'@/2/'4 :.+4;69:8+'3:5':8/(;:'8? 58-'4/@+*(?Gero’s Tours #5;8/93;8+';3(8':;8 !;4/4*+6+4*+4:2?(? :.':2+'*9:5:.+2'1+:9 "53+5,:.+:5;8 4-2/9.96+'1/4-+85 =':+898/9+'4*,'22=/:.:.+ 9+'9549!+2':/<+2?/952':+* '-+4)/+96856+*/:/54 ;9;'22?2'9:9,853;-;9: :?6+68+6'8':/54'4* ('91/4-54:.+9'4*?9.58+ :5+)+3(+858'4;'8? 9+<+8'2*'?9 #.+2'1+6856+*/:/549/4 5)'2+)5453?*+6+4*9358+ Gero’s Tours Rua 10 de Julho 632, 3'@F4/'5,,+8/4-9.58: 54,/9./4-:.'454:5;8/934 Manaus. Tel (092) 3232 9416.

.5=+<+8(5:.=+8+./: Nature Safaris Rua Flavio Espiritu 1, 6')1'-+:5;89'9=+22'9 (?:.+=589:*85;-.:/45<+8 Manaus. Tel (092) 3656 6033. 254-+89','8/9:/96599/(2+ '9/2?'))+99/(2+(?85'*

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Caimans luxuriating on the sandy riverbank of Manaquiri, with a great egret in the foreground For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp383–4 and p408

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Amazonas. 105,000. from Manaus. (092) 3533 4400. Festa do Boi Bumbá (Jun); Festa das Pastorinhas (Dec–Jan).

Cormorants and great egrets in the Mamirauá Reserve

2'8-+0;4-2+:5=4 '8/4:/49 ='958/-/4'22?:.+8+,;-+5, ')533;4/:?5,/4*/-+45;9 8/<+8/4+6+562+145=4'9

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/4)2;*/4--;/*+*4':;8+ +>6+*/:/549/4:.+2'1+9 '4*:8'/29/4:.+,58+9: 280 miles (450 km) W of Manaus. #.+68+9+8<+'2955,,+89 www.mamiraua.org.br Programa )53,58:'(2+'4*+)525-/)'22? de Ecoturismo Tel (092) 3343 4160. 95;4*'))5335*':/54'::.+ 5)':+*'::.+)54,2;+4)+5, $'1'8/25':/4-5*-+ :=58/<+89:.+!/5"52/3G+9 )259+:5,58+9::8'/29 '4*!/5'6;8B:.+'3/8';B 68+::?0;4-2+2'1+9'4* ";9:'/4'(2++<+2563+4:

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Desenvolvimento Sustentável Mamirauá

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Tranquil waters of the Rio Branco, flowing past Roraima’s capital Boa Vista

Roraima. 237,000. Centro Turismo, (095) 3623 2365. www.roraima-brasil.com.br

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"(5;(3,5(0:+6;;,+>0;/ :64,05;,9,:;05.:0./;:#/, ,*636.0*(30:3(5+79,:,9=,6- Ilha do Maracá403,: 24569;/6-6(%0:;( 0:256>5-690;::7,*0,: 79,:,9=(;065(5+)06+0=,9:0;@ 905.,+>0;/.96=,:6- *(:/,>;9,,:;/,,5*/(5;05. Lago Caracaranã0:36*(;,+

403,: 24569;/ "(5;(3,5(+,$(09F5 6--,9:;/,),:;(**,::;6;/,

Acre. 255,000. Av Getúlio Vargas 91, (068) 3222 7661.

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Environs

6(%0:;(0:)3,::,+>0;/3<:/ ;9670*(39(05-69,:;,5+3,:: :;9,;*/,:6-:(=(55(73(05: (5+79,;;@90=,9),(*/,: >/0*/4(2,;/,:<996<5+05. 9,.065>,33>69;/,?736905. #/6<./,*6;6<90:40::;03305 0;:050;0(3:;(.,:69.(50A,+ ;6<9:(9,-(093@+,=,367,+ :0.50-0*(5;:;(.05.769; ,596<;,:6<;/;6(5(<: 69569;/;6<@(5((5+ %,5,A<,3(6(%0:;(0:,(:03@ *655,*;,+)@)<:;6;/, %,5,A<,3(5;6>56-Santa Elena de Uairén36*(;,+

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An aerial view of Rio Branco city with Rio Acre

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp383–4 and p408

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7am–noon & 2–5pm Tue–Sun.

CENTRAL WEST BRAZIL

INTRODUCING CENTRAL WEST BRAZIL 292297 BRASÍLIA, GOIÁS & TOCANTINS 298313 MATO GROSSO & MATO GROSSO DO SUL 314323

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KEY The cerrado The Pantanal

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The Palácio de Itamaraty (Palace of Arches), one of the most impressive modern buildings in Brasília

Sculpted rock formations creating a lunar landscape, Vale da Lua, Parque Nacional Chapada dos Veadeiros

300

C E N T R A L

W E S T

B R A Z I L

Exploring Brasilia, Goias & Tocantins Cidade de Goias and Pirenopolis in Goias remain pleasant colonial towns, while the spectacular Chapada dos Veadeiros National Park in northern Goias showcases the unique flora and fauna of highaltitude cerrado. Brasilia, the capital city of Brazil from 1960 onward, was built from the dust and scrub of the central western cerrado, and is a Modernist marvel. In Tocantins state, the Ilha do Bananal, one of the largest islands in Brazil, is also the point at which three ecosystems converge - rainforest, cerrado, and wetland. The dune deserts of Jalapao in Tocantins are fringed by dry sertao, vast horizons of soya farms, waterfalls, crystalline rivers, and forests inhabited by the Xavante and Xingu indigenous groups.

Rio Preto waterfall at Chapada dos Veadeiros

Towns & Cities Brasilia pp302-305 O Cidade de Goias Ilha do Bananal P almas 0 Pirenopolis pp308-309 0 National Parks & Areas of Natural Beauty

Jalapao 0 Parque Nacional Chapada dos Veadeiros pp312-13 0 Parque Nacional das Emas

SEE ALSO 1

Where to Stay pp384-5

1

Where to Eat p409

For additional map symbols see back flap

^o

PIRENOPOLIS AnapolisO

B R A S I L I A ,

GOIAS

£ T O C A N T I N S

301

ildings, Catedral Metropolitan a, and Museu Nacional, in Brasilia

GETTING AROUND Travel inevitably begins in Brasilia. There is an international airport, and flights connecting with most larger Brazilian cities, including frequent flights to Goiania in Goias and Palmas in Tocantins. Roads radiate out from these cities to other towns and states cutting through the harvest land and the stunning scenery. Pirenopolis, a weekend getaway from Goiania, is reached from Brasilia via a filigree of small roads and regular buses. There are daily buses to Cidade de Goias from Goiania via the BR-070. The Chapada dos Veadeiros, which, together with Pirenopolis, boasts the best ecotourism infrastructure, is reached from the little towns of Sao Jorge or Alto Paraiso in northern Goias. These are connected to Brasilia via the GO118. Apart from the main north-south artery, the BR-153, transportation in Tocantins is difficult. Ilha do Bananal in the west and Jalapao in the east are remote and best visited on tours.

0 Sao

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Sweeping sand dunes in Jalapao

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp384–5 and p409

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

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Brasília Distrito Federal. 2,200,000. Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek International Airport, (061) 3364 9000. Tourist Office, Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek International Airport, (061) 3364 9488, or Adetur, Centro de Convençoes, (061) 3429 7600. www.infobrasilia.com.br

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"-*(&5.9&14+7&?.1 7&8F1.& .88-&5*)1.0*&3&.751&3*.3 -42&,*94<-&9<&89-*3 9-*.3(.5.*39/*9&,*$-.1* 94.983479-&3)84:9-1.*9-* 7*8.)*39.&1<.3,89-*.=4 43:2*39&1 (&& / +47289-*'4)>4+9-*/*9<.9- 9-*(.9>82&/47&997&(9.438 Praça dos Três Poderes Eixo Monumental. Congresso Nacional e Anexos 9–11:30am & 3:30–4:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat & Sun. Palácio do Planalto 9:30am–1:30pm Sun. Palácio de Itamaraty 3–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–3pm Sat & Sun. Palácio da Justiça 9–11am & 3–5pm Mon–Fri.

"-.8;&8986:&7*.8+1&30*) '>':.1).3,89-&9+4729-* 14(:84+9-*7&?.1.&3,4;*73 2*39 "-*&=.84+9-*+*)*7&1 89&9*9-*Congresso Nacional e Anexos.8&-&7243.4:8 +:8.434+1.3*8&3)(:7;*8 (7*&9.3,9-*2489243:2*39&1 &3)9.2*1*88&7(-.9*(9:7*.3 9-*(.9>39-*49-*78.)*4+ 9-*86:&7*&7*9-*8*&984+9<4 49-*7'7&3(-*84+54<*7@9-* Palácio do Planalto<-.(-.8 9-**=*(:9.;*4++.(*4+9-* 57*8.)*3(>&3)45548.9*.9 9-* Supremo Tribunal Federal 9-*!:57*2*4:79-*&) 6:&79*78 "-*1&99*7.8349 45*3949-*5:'1.( 22*).&9*1>'*14<9-.8 ,74:54+':.1).3,8&7*9-* Palácio de Itamaraty&3)9-* Palácio da Justiça9<44+ 7&8F1.&8+*<':.1).3,89-&9 &7*247*&*89-*9.(9-&3 243:2*39&1 "-*1&99*78 4)*73.89(41:2388**294 7.8*,*391>+7429-*1.1>543)

Palácio da Justiça with lily pond in the foreground

The interior of Santuário Dom Bosco, bathed in blue light

1>.3,&9.98+**994+47282449- &7(-*838.)*.8&;&89-&11 )*(47&9*)<.9-842*+.3* 8(:159:7*&3)5&.39.3,8"-* 2&.3-.,-1.,-9.8 9-(*39:7> &79.89*)742D7.(48 ' )% & '$)*5.(9.3,9-* 242*39<-*342*)74 574(1&.2*)7&?.1.&3 3)*5*3)*3(* (& Catedral Militar de Nossa Senhora da Paz Canteiro Central do Eixo Monumental Oeste. 8am–7pm daily. Tel (061) 3323 3858.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp384–5 and p409

Santuário Dom Bosco Av W3 Sul, Quadra 702. Tel (061) 3223 6542. 7am–7pm daily.

"-*(.9>8+.3*89(-:7(- -434789-* 9-(*39:7> 9&1.&3;.8.43&7>8&.39&3) +4:3)*74+9-*!&1*8.&347)*7 .8574(1&2&9.439-&9&3*< (.;.1.?&9.43<4:1)&7.8*.39-* 9-.7)2.11*33.:2'*9<**3 9-* 9-&3) 9-5&7&11*184+ 1&9.9:)*8.385.7*):'.98(-*0 94':.1)7&8F1.&439-**),* 4+&3&79.+.(.&11&0*"-*89:3 3.3,.39*7.47+*&9:7*8&3 &124898**21*885&3451>4+ ,1&88<-.(-7&3,*8+7421.,-9 94)&70'1:*&3).3).,4&8.9 &8(*3)8 39-*1&9*&+9*73443 8-&+984+1.,-95*3*97&9*9-* ':.1).3,.11:2.3&9.3,9-* 2&7'1*89&9:*4+9-*#.7,.3 &3)9-*;&89(7488<-48* ;*79.(&1<&8(&7;*)+742& 8.3,1*5.*(*4+9745.(&1(*)&7 "-*(-:7(-<&8'1*88*)'> 4-3&:143-.8 ;.8.9 Templo da Boa Vontade Setor Garagem Sul 915. Tel (061) 3245 1070. 24 hrs daily.

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Esplanado dos Ministérios. Tel (061) 3224 4073. 8am– 5pm Mon & Sat, 8am–6pm Tue–Fri & Sun. during masses: 12:15pm & 6:15pm Tue– Fri; 5pm Sat; 8:30am, 10:30am & 6pm Sun. www.catedral.org.br

The Catedral Metropolitana, etched against a cloudy Brasília sky

'#'!"$)'$,( $)$)%'"") )%#(,'' (),( $)'', )+ ( )%'( #' $%*)%'!$(( $)%))'"(" ) Curved concrete pillars

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Display of costumes from the Festa do Divino, Museu das Cavalhadas

Museu das Cavalhadas Rua Direita 39. 8am–8pm daily.

Souvenir shops selling traditional handicrafts on Rua Rui Barbosa

Igreja Nosso

Senhor do Bonfim Praça do Bonfim. check with tourist office before visiting.

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The well-maintained Igreja Nosso Senhor do Bonfim

+&D&)*!-*.2&,*4+4884 *3-47)443+.2.39-* 2&.3&19&75.*(*<&8'74:,-9 -*7*+742 &1;&)47'>& (43;4>4+ 81&;*8 Igreja Matriz de Nossa

Senhora do Rosário

!-.882&112:8*:2(439&.38 &3.3(7*).'1*).851&>4+ &73&;&12&808473&9*2*9&1 &7247(489:2*85-494,7&5-8 &3)+410147*7*1&9.3,949-* -:,*1>545:1&7*89&)4.;.34 85E7.94 &394!-*+*89.;&1<&8 47.,.3&11>479:,:*8*':99-* (4:79(489:2*8&3)9-*&3.2&1 2&808&7*:3.6:*1>7&?.1.&3 47.,.3&9.3,+742+747&?.1.&3 &3).3).,*34:8(:89428!-* (411*(9.434((:5.*89-*,74:3) +14474+&-42*'*143,.3,94& +&2.1><-.(--&8+47,*3*7& 9.43851&>*)&(*397&1741*.3 5*7+472&3(*8&99-*+*89.;&1 Museu da Família Pompeu Rua Nova 31. Tel (062) 3331 1299. call ahead to arrange a visit.

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<-*39-**39.7* .(0*38.&38-*1;*8 &997&(9.;*(4143.&1*). +.(*<&8,:99*).3& 4+41))4(:2*398 +.*7(*+.7*.9&184-&) 2:3.(.5&13*<81*99*78 43*4+9-*+.3*89 &341)57.39.3,57*88 &746:*.39*7.478.3 &3)8.1;*7/*<*17>!-* 9-*89&9*!-*(-:7(- 2:8*:257*8*7;*89-* '4&89*)&3&19&75.*(* 2489(4257*-*38.;* )*(47&9*)<.9-249.+8 &3)<*112&.39&.3*) 7*(47)84+9-**&71> 9&0*3+7429-*+147& Museu da Família Pompeu >*&784+9-*(4143.&1 4+9-*8:774:3).3, 94<34+.7*3F541.8 &3)&3 .3(1:).3,5.(9:7*8&3))4(: .257*88.;*(*.1.3,5&.39*) 2*398+742.98,41)2.3.3, '>9-*7&?.1.&3&79.893B(.4 )&>8!-*425*:+&2.1> *7*.7&*&1.3 !-* )4*83497*8.)*-*7*!-*7* (-:7(-<&87*8947*)&3) .8&574548&1949:739-.8 45*3*)&3*<.3 ':9 97*&8:7*-4:8*.394&5:'1.( &8-479&,*4++:3)8-&81*+9 2:3.(.5&12:8*:2 .9<.9-&51&.3.39*7.47

Rua Do Rosário. check with tourist office before visiting.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp384–5 and p409

A

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

FESTA DO DIVINO ESPÍRITO SANTO 184034<3&8&;&1-&)&89-*+*89.;&1 .8'&8*)43'*7.&3147*)&9.3,+7429-* 7:8&)*8&3)&9-41.($-.98:39.)*(*1* '7&9.438!-*+*89.;&1'*,.38 )&>8 '*+47**39*(489 :3)&><.9-&,&9-*7.3, 4+7.)*78034<3&89-*41.&)4.;.34 &99-*&97.?!-*>9-*3574(**)4:94+ .7*3F541.8.3949-*8:774:3).3,(4:397> Cavalhadas parade 8.)*&80*))&3(*785&7&)*84+ costume -478*2*3)7*88*)&87:8&)*784478 47&;&1-&)&8&3)2&3>(:19:7&1&3) 2:8.(&1*;*398+4114<!-*+*89.;&1(:12.3&9*843*39*(489 :3)&>.39-*7*(*391>':.1989&).:29-*&;&1-&)4)7F24

Goiás. 23,000.

Rodoviária, Av Neco Mendonça, (062) 3331 1080. Central de Atendimento ão Turista, (062) 3331 2633. Festa do Divino Espírito Santo (Feb). www.pirenopolis.com.br

Santuário de Vida Silvestre Fazenda Vagafogo 7 miles (12 km) NW of Pirenopólis. Tel (062) 3335 8515. 8am–6pm daily.

Teatro de Pirenópolis Praça da Matriz s/n. Tel (062) 3331 2029 (box office). box office open all day on show days.

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Tocantins. 137,500. (063) 3228 5600. Embratur, Secretaría da Industria, Comercio e Turismo, Praça Girossóis, (063) 3218 2357. Carnaval (Feb/Mar).

A cobbled street lined with townhouses in Cidade de Goías

+=2/2/Museu das Secretaría de Turismo, (062) 3201 Bandeiras>2/09<7/<=/+>90 8122. Semana Santa (Apr), 19@/<87/8>A23-2:90<997=A3>2:/<39. cidadeshistoricas.art.br/goias 0?<83>? +<9;?/:?,63-09?8>+38 35/79=>-96983+6>9A8=38 2+0+<3D./+?.++8.>2/ <+D36=38>/<39<3.+././ #?+<>/6.9(38>/+8 >2 93H=136 -/8>?2/73..6/90>2/ >2 29?=/=>2/>9?<3=>9003-/ -/8>?A+=>2/-+:3>+690 77/.3+>/6C89<>290"<+J+ A2+>A+=98-/>2/6+<1/=> <+=36 +3+.9+8.-+::/. <+D363+8=>+>/+:+<>0<97 A3>2+8+>><+->3@/>29?12 79./=> +<9;?/-2?<-23= 7+D98+= 6=9589A8+= +89>2/<=;?+93H= 3.+././93H=3=+7+13-+6 Correto &2/79=>38>/381 63>>6/-3>C8/=>6/.+>>2/099>90 90+66>2/-3>C=7?=/?7= Museu de Arte Sacra 38>2/ >2/= 1/3= 638/.A3>2 >2-/8>?9A8 69-+>/.2/92366=-+::/. =/<3/=902+?8>3816C630/635/ A3>2-2?<-2/=6/+0C=;?+>6/7+<5/>=30/2/9><9>+6981+=3>2+= +=/60>+?12>=-?6:>9< .98/09<-/8>?<3/= !::9=3>/>23=7?=/?73=>2/ Palácio Conde dos Arcos )236/23=>9<3-93H=3=0+< 0<97,/38169=>38+,C198/ -97:6/>/A3>2 >2-/8>?C=,?=C=9-3+6 0?<83>?366?=/.,C>2/ -+6/8.+<3=+>/=>+7/8>>93>= 19@/<89<98-3>C@3=3>= =?--/==0?60?=39890>2/96. Museu de Arte Sacra A3>2>2/8/A&2/23812+::/8381+679=>/@/2<9?12>2/C/+< 9am–1pm Sun. 3893H=0<97>29<9?126C Museu das Bandeiras ><+.3>398+6299./.:+<+./= Praça Brasil Caiado. Tel (062) 3371 38 %/7+8+ %+8>+96C)//5 1087. 8–11am & 1–5pm >9=97/90>2/,/=>A9<6. Tue–Fri, noon–5pm Sat. -38/7+0/=>3@+6=+8.-6+==3-+6 Palácio Conde dos Arcos 7?=3--98-/<>=38<+D36 Praça Dr. Tasso de Camargo. +8C,?36.381=+8. Tel (062) 3371 1200. 8am–5pm 7?=/?7=>/=>30C>9>2/-3>C= Tue–Sat, 8am–noon Sun. 366?=><39?=:+=>+8.93H=3= =7+66/89?12>9=//>2/7+66 6/3=?&2/,/=> :6+-/>9,/138+>9?<3=+> Praça Brasil Caiado>2/6+<1/ =;?+2/ See pp312–13. >9A8==9?>2/<8/8.&2/

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp384–5 and p409

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The sparkling Rio Tocantins in Palmas at sunset

Tocantins. Korubo, (011) 3667 5053, www.korubo.com.br; or Bananal Ecotour (063) 3219 4200. www.bananalecotour.com.br

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Tocantins. 3,500. Bananal Ecotour Quadra 103-S, Loja 28, Palmas, (063) 3219 4200. www. bananalecotour.com.br

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A breathtaking view of Tocantins landscape from a dune, Jalapão

Goiás. Drena, Rua Aurora 21, Centro Histórico Pirenópolis, (062) 3331 3336. Fazenda Santa Amélia, (064) 3634 1380. www. drena.tur.br

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Goías. from Brasília to Alto Paraíso, then bus. Av Ari Valadão, (061) 3446 1201, Alto Paraíso. in Alto Paraíso. 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. Best time to visit is April–October. visits are permitted only with a guide, available at the park entry station. Only 450 visitors may enter the park at any one time and for day trips only.

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Capybara, the largest rodent in the world, frequently spotted in water ponds of the Pantanal

Limestone rock formations and transparent blue waters, Gruta do Lago Azul, Bonito

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C E N T R A L

W E S T

B R A Z I L

Exploring Mato Grosso & i Mato Grosso do Sul Both Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul are regions of enormous plains with a handful of mountain ranges. The main attraction of this region is the Pantanal, the world's largest wetland. This harbors an important ecosystem with varied fauna such as caimans, jaguars, and a profuse variety of birds. Cuiaba, Corumba, and Campo Grande are good springboards for ecotourists who wish to travel into or through the Pantanal. Alta Floresta, in the extreme north of Mato Grosso, is considered one of the best places for spotting rare birds and mammals. Bonito, in Mato Grosso do Sul, is an area of plunging waterfalls, caves, and crystal-clear rivers — ideal for walks through mountains and forests and rafting and snorkeling. Flowing from central Mato Grosso, the Rio Xingu has indigenous peoples from nine distinct ethnic groups living along its banks. SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Towns & Cities Bonito O Campo Grande 0 Corumba 0 Cuiaba O Miranda 0 National Parks & Areas of Natural Beauty Alta Floresta O Chapada dos Guimaraes 0 Pantanal pp32()-21 0 Xingu 0

SEE ALSO 1

Where to Stay pp385-6

1

Where to Eat pp409-10

Jabiru storks, also known as tuiuiu, gather to feed in the Pantanal

For additional map symbols see back flap

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GETTING AROUND Distances are huge in these states and there are few paved roads. However, the capital cities Campo Grande in Mato Grosso do Sul and Cuiaba in Mato Grosso have airports with good connections to the rest of Brazil. Alta Floresta also has an airport. Corumba, Bonito, and Miranda in Mato Grosso do Sul are connected to Campo Grande by fast, comfortable buses. Tour operators are based in the capital cities and in Corumba and Bonito. Most can organize bookings through their websites. Tours to the Pantanal are also organized, and usually enter the Pantanal by road and spend a couple of days exploring in canoes, motorboats, or on horseback from a land base. Rented cars are also a possibility, though visitors would be limited to only a few tracks along the fringes.

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The spectacular vista of the Chapada dos Guimarães plateau, Mato Grosso

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp385–6 and pp409–10

Véu de Noiva, the highest waterfall in Chapada dos Guimarães

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<0-)<7:7;;784)16; #0-:-):-;->-:)4?)<-:.)44; Mato Grosso. 43,000. to 16<0-):-)<0-57;<.)57=; Cuiabá, then bus. Anaconda )6,<)44-;<7.?01+01;<0- Pantanal Operators, (065) 33028 Véu de Noiva7:<0-:1,)4 5990. Cristalino Jungle Lodge, %-14)44; (066) 3512 7100. 4<07=/0<0-0)8),)0); ;--6.):57:-)//:-;;1>- "1<=)<-,16<0--@<:-5-67:<0 )/:1+=4<=:)4,->-4785-6< <0)61<;+7=6<-:8):<;1671E; 7.)<7:7;;74<)47:-;<) )6, #7)+)6<16;5)6A=84)6, ;1<;76<0--,/-7.<0- 8:1;<16-;7=<0-:65)B76 *1:,;8-+1-;?01+0):-67< :)16.7:-;<)6,1;):)81,4A .7=6,-1<0-:16<0- )6<)6)4 /:7?16/.:76<1-:<7?6#01; 7:<0-5)B761)6.7:-;<; :-57<-<7?61;)4;7)<0:1>16/ +)6*-;--60-:-#0-01/0 .7:-;<;;)>)66);)6, )/:1+=4<=:)4;-<<4-5-6<<; ;=::7=6,16/):-);):- 8);<=:-4)6,;7.<0-0)8),) +76;1,-:-,;75-7.<0-*-;< A view out over the forests of 074,);8-+1)4)<<:)+<176.7: the Rio Cristalino preserve 16<0-:)B141)65)B76.7: *1:,?)<+0-:;?07 ;87<<16/:):-*1:,; +75-0-:-16 )6,5)55)4;6- 44<0-4):/--7<:781+)4 ,:7>-;<7+)<)47/=- 7.<0-01/041/0<;7. <0->):1--:7<<-: ;-:>-;);)*);-.7: 5)6-,?74>-; )6,<0:--<7-,;47<0);?-44 Red-capped <0- Cristalino Jungle 7+-47<;)6,*4)+3 );2)/=):8=5))6,<)81: cardinal, Alta Floresta Lodge <)14-,5):57;-<; ):-8:-;-6<)6,+)67.<-6*- #0-:1;<)4167=6/4- ;87<<-,0-:-)+141<1-;.7: 7,/-;1<;16<0-:1;<)4167 2=6/4-?)43;)6,>1-?16/ 7:-;-,--816<0- ?14,41.-):--@+-44-6<)6, .7:-;<67:<07.4<)47:-;<) 16+4=,- 6/41;0;8-)316/ Mato Grosso. Fundação #0-47,/-1;;1<=)<-,76<0- ;8-+1)41;
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Mato Grosso & Mato Grosso do Sul. Campo Grande & Corumbá. Caceres & Cuiabá. Rua Afonso Pena s/n, Campo Grande, (067) 3324 5830. organized tours available in Campo Grande & Cuiabá. The dry season (Apr–May & Sep–Oct) is the best time to visit. Birdwatching ideal in Jul–Sep. Fishing best in Apr, but requires a permit from Ibama, (067) 3321 5053.

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Boats moored on the Rio Paraguai, Corumbá

Mato Grosso do Sul. 95,000. along Rio Paraguai. Secretaría de Turismo, (067) 3232 5221. Festa de Nossa Senhora de Candelária (Oct).

Mato Grosso do Sul. 23,000. Festa do Homem Pantaneiro (Oct).

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Mato Grosso do Sul. 665,000. Centro Informação Turistica e Cultural, (067) 3324 5830.

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Casa do Artesão Rua Dom Corréa 405. 7:30–11am & 1:30–5pm Mon–Fri, 8–11am Sat. Forte Junqueira Rua Cáceres 425. Tel (067) 3231 5828. 8–11am & 1:30–4:30pm Mon–Fri. Museu do Pantanal Praça de República. Tel (067) 3231 5757. 7:30am–1:30pm Mon–Fri.

Rodeo at the Festa de Homem Pantaneiro

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp385–6 and pp409–10

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Estância Mimosa 15 miles (24 km) NW of Bonito. Tel (067) 9986 4802. 8am–3pm daily. www.estanciamimosa. com.br

Rio Sucuri flowing near Bonito, reflecting the lush greenery around

Rio Sucuri 12 miles (20 km) SW of Bonito.

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Mato Grosso do Sul. 17,000. Setuma, (067) 255 1760. Taika Tour, Pilad Rebuá 211, (067) 3255 1354; Ygarapé Tours, Pilad Rebuá 1853, (067) 3255 1159.

Aquário Natural Baía Bonita 4 miles (7 km) SE of Bonito. Tel (067) 255 1193. 7:30am– 3:30pm daily.

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Lake and stalactites at the Abismo Anhumas cavern

Abismo Anhumas 16 miles (25 km) W of Bonito. 7:30am–noon daily.

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Gruta do Lago Azul 12 miles (20 km) W of Bonito. 7am–2pm daily.

SOUTHERN BRAZIL

INTRODUCING SOUTHERN BRAZIL 326331 SANTA CATARINA & PARANÁ 332347 RIO GRANDE DO SUL 348359

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Aerial view of wheat fields, Paraná

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An illustration of European immigrants aboard a ship bound for Brazil

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Turquoise waves hitting Florianópolis beach, Santa Catarina

Litorina, the tourist train running between Paranaguá and Morretes in Paraná

334

S O U T H E R N

B R A Z I L

Exploring Santa Catarina & Parana Although the uncontested highlights of this region are Parana's magnificent Iguacu Falls and Santa Catarina's island resort of Florianopolis, these two states have much more to offer. Santa Catarina's 310-mile (500-km) coast features sheltered coves and long expanses of beach, while in Parana, the Atlantic forest preserves of the Parque Nacional Ilha de Superagiii encompass dense virgin forest. Ilha do Mel, at the mouth of Paranagua Bay, is a popular beach resort, and just across the bay on the mainland is the scenic port of Paranagua. Inland, both states have a robust agricultural industry. Vast soya farms dominate large parts of Parana, while small family holdings are characteristic of Santa Catarina. Descendants of European immigrants continue their traditions in these states, such as the Austrians in Treze Tilias. SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Towns & Cities Curitiba O Florianopolis &Ilha de Santa Catarina pp346- 7 0 Paranagua O National Parks, Islands & Areas of Natural Beauty Foz do Igua$u pp340-43 0 Ilha do Mel 0 Ilha de Superagiii 0 Serra da Graciosap337

Facade of the Mercado Publico in Florianopolis, Santa Catarina

For additional map symbols see back flap

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Low-lying islands covered with thick vegetation, Parana

Railroad International border State border

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GETTING AROUND Both Parana and Santa Catarina have excellent transportation facilities. Curitiba and Florianopolis have international airports. Foz do Iguacu's international airport also serves many regional destinations. The road network is good, with only a few towns connected with gravel or dirt roads. The main north-south highway (BR-101) that hugs the coast of Santa Catarina is well maintained but is often extremely congested in the summer. Bus travel is excellent between the region's main centers as well as the smaller towns. There is only one passenger railroad network - the spectacular 68-mile (110-km) route linking Curitiba with Paranagua.

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Colorful shops and restaurants around Praça Garibaldi

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from Paranaguá. Rua da '8:/49;8/:/('952*+9: Glória 362, (041) 3352 8000. 9;8./(/:/54954:.+./9 :58?5,:.+)/:? 5;4*+*/4

'9'-52* Papa João Paulo II 3/4/4-+4)'363+4:;8/:/(' #6:.+./22,853.+8+ '362+:5 !G58'4)/9)5(;/2:/4 Detail outside

'4*2':+89+8:+4*+*/4 :.+ 7;'8:+8'4*,+':;8+93'4? ,+':;8+:.+(;/2*/4-/9 (;/2*/4-/945=:.+Museu =+2268+9+8<+*./9:58/) Paranaense/:9*/962'?9 (;/2*/4-9':/4-,853 )549/*+8+*54+5,9)'8 :.+ -8+0'*'8*+3/9:.+ /+3+?+89-8+':+9:'8)./ :+):;8'2')./+<+3+4:9 )/:?952*+9:).;8).'4*:.+ ,/4+9:+>'362+5,58:;-;+9+ Bosque Papa João Paulo II +))2+9/'9:/)'2'8)./:+):;8+ Memorial Polonês /4:.+9:':+".+62'/4=./:+ Av Mateus Leme/ Rua Wellington ='9.+*9:8;):;8+/9*+)58':+* Oliveira Vianna (Centro Civico). Tel /49/*+=/:.:?6/)'22? (041) 3313 7194. 10:30–6pm 58:;-;+9+(2;+'4*=./:+ Mon, 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sun. :/2+9'4*'857;+'2:'89 Museu de Arte Sacra 254-9/*+:.+).;8)./9:.+ Largo da Ordem s/n. Tel (041) 3321 Museu de Arte Sacra=/:.' 3265. 9am–noon & 1–6pm Tue– 93'22(;:=+2268+9+4:+* Fri, 9am–2pm Sat & Sun.

)522+):/545,8+2/)9-':.+8+* Museu Oscar Niemeyer ,853).;8).+9/4;8/:/('4 Rua Marechal Hermes 999 (Centro :.+9'3+9/*+5,:.+97;'8+/9 Civico). Tel (041) 3350 4400. :.+ Igreja do Rosário58/- 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. /4'22?9+8
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Paraná. from Curitiba. Largo Dr José Pereira 43, Morretes, (041) 3462 1024. in Morretes. Parque Estadual de Morumbi Tel (041) 3462 3598. 6am– 7pm daily. Litorina Tel (041) 3323 4007. Advance booking required. www. serraverdeexpress.com.br

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Paraná. 1,200. from Paranaguá. www.ilhadomelonline. com.br

Colonial buildings along the waterfront in Paranaguá

Paraná. 142,000. from Curitiba. Rua General Carneiro, (041) 3425 4542. www.paranagua.pr.gov.br

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Farol das Conchas lighthouse on the eastern tip of Ilha do Mel

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp386–8 and pp410–12

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A flock of migratory birds in the Parque Nacional de Superagüi, Ilha de Superagüi

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Paraná. from Paranaguá. Pousada Superagüi, (041) 3482 7149. www.pousadasuperagui.com.br

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Barreado, a regional specialty of Paraná

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Paraná. Aeroporto Internacional do Foz do Iguaçu, (045) 3521 4200. Rodoviária Internacional, 4 miles (6 km) NE from town. Av Jorge Schimmelpfeng, Foz; (045) 3522 1027. Parque Nacional do Iguaçu Tel (045) 3521 4400. 9am–6pm daily. Note: The best time to visit is during the rainy season between April and July.

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The Sheraton Internacional Iguazú, close to the falls

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Foz do Iguaçu 400 miles (639 km) W of Curitiba.

Av Jorge Schimmelpfeng, (045) 3522 1027. Itaipu Binacional Av Tancredo Neves 6702. Tel (045) 3520 6999. 8am, 9am, 10am, 2pm, 3pm & 3:30pm daily. mandatory. www.itaipu.gov.br

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Jungle Explorer trucks transporting visitors to the falls For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp386–8 and pp410–12

The ground-dwelling red-winged tinamou at Parque das Aves

)6-@+-44-6<16<:7,=+<176<7 :)B141)6*1:,41.-$0-8):3 +76;1;<;7.7>-: )+:-; 0)7..7:-;<$0-8):3 0);4):/-)>1):1-;07=;16/ ;75- ;8-+1-;7.*1:,; .:75,1..-:-6<:)B141)6-+7 ;A;<-5;)6,16+4=,-5)+)?; 8)::7<;<7=+)6;:-,?16/-, <16)57=;)6,.4)516/7; 8):<.:75)*=<<-:.4A0)*1<)< )6,):-8<14--@01*1<<0-8):3 )4;70););=++-;;.=4*:--,16/ 8:7/:)5<0)<+76+-6<:)<-;76 :)B141)6-6,)6/-:-,;8-+1-; Parque Nacional do Iguaçu Tel (045) 3521 4400. 1–5pm Mon, 8am–5pm Tue–Sun www.cataratasdoiguacu.com.br

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Exploring the Argentinian Side

$0-:/-6<161)6;1,-7. /=)H=0);)4):/-:;0):-7. <0-?)<-:.)44;)6,7..-:;)6 16<15)<--@8-:1-6+-?1<0) /:-)<-:>):1--;$0-9=1-<41<<4-<7?67. !=-:<7/=)BK1;)/77,84)+- <75)3-)*);- Parque Nacional Iguazú Tel (054) 3757 4232. Dec–Mar: 7:30am–6:30pm daily, Apr–Jul: 8am– 6pm daily. www. iguazuargentina.com

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Capucin monkey, Parque Nacional Iguazú

Coati, one of the most commonly spotted mammals in the park

A rainbow arcs above the Rio Iguazú, Parque Nacional Iguazú, Argentina

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Puerto Iguazú 6 miles (10 km) S of Foz do Iguaçu.

Av Victoria Aguirre 369, (037) 574 20800. www. iguazuturismo.gov.ar

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WILDLIFE IN THE IGUAÇ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
A breathtaking view of the Garganta do Diabo (Devil’s Throat), Foz do Iguaçu

346

S O U T H E R N

B R A Z I L

PFIO Florianopolis & Ilha de Santa Catarina e Santa Catarina's capital, Florianopolis, is one of South America's hippest destinations. A gateway to the Ilha de Santa Catarina, the sprawling urban center of Florianopolis is also the transport hub for the rest of the island. The industrial zone occupies the mainland, while the colonial center sits across the bay on the island. The island's north shore has pretty beaches and warm, tranquil waters that are popular with families. The Atlantic rollers of the east coast have made the island one of the world's great surfing centers. In the daytime, Praia Mole and Praia Joaquina are crowded, while the bars of the town of Centro da Lagoa bustle until early morning. Canasvieras During the summer, the warm water and safe swimming of the resort of Canasvieras especially attractfamilies from Sao Paulo and Argentina.

Colorful fishing boats moored i the village of Riberao da Ilha

Ingleses do -Rio Vermelho

Praia de Canasvieras

Sambaqui*

BAIA

Cacupe'

NORTE

* Santo Antonio de Lisboa This charming little village, with the church as its focal point, is the best preserved of the island's 18th-century Azorean settlements. Fishing provides the community's basic livelihood.

STAR SIGHTS

•* Santo AntSnio de Lisboa •* Florian6polis •* Praia Mole

* Florianopolis The attractions of Florianopolis include Mercado Publico, which features upbeat bars, as well as some 150 stands with fruits, vegetables, seafood, and handicrafts.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp386-8 and pp410-12

Angelina

S A N T A

C A T A R I N A

£

P A R A N A

VISITORS' CHECKLIST Santa Catarina. JJ 7 m//es (12 km) S of Florianopolis, then bus or taxi. ^ for all beaches: Rua Antonio Ruz, Florianopolis. 0 Latina Rent a Car, (048) 3236 2009. H Pra^aXVde Novembro, (048) 3223 7796. <& ^ Festa do Divino (May, Jun&Jul)

Barra da Lagoa This pleasant fishing village and beach sits at the mouth of the Rio Barra. Lined with a choice of accommodations and restaurants, it is particularly lively in the summer season. The clear river water is perfect for swimming.

Praia Barra da Lagoa

* Praia Mole Surfers and hang-gliding enthusiasts favor the laid-back Praia Mole to showcase their talents. A number of pleasant beach bars and eateries line the relaxed beach. Praia Joaquina Brazil's famous surfing Centra da Lagoa, an center is hacked by huge important fishing center, dunes. The cold water and is primarily known for its the rough sea make itfit only lively nightlife, stylish for the strongest of swimmers. bars, and restaurants.

Lagoa da Conce/cao Centro da Lagoa Campeche is

renowned for some of the finest beaches on the island.

Visitor information

Campeche Praia da Armacao

Praia Pantano doSul

for its excellent seafood restaurants, the prime attraction being oysters, farmed just offshore.

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Pastoral scene of cows grazing in Rio Grande do Sul

Gaúcho riding through expansive fields of swaying pampas

350

S O U T H E R N

B R A Z I L

Exploring Rio Grande Do Sul P

The pampas that characterize the interior of southern and western Rio Grande do Sul are the state's economic heartlands. Porto Alegre, the state's capital, is a bustling city which is culturally rich and ethnically diverse. The windswept coast is for the most part unrelentingly bleak, and is fringed by lagoons and sand bars, making it one of the world's longest beaches. The araucaria pine forests, immense canyons, and terraced vineyards of Bento Goncalves and Flores da Cunha in the northeast make perfect backdrops for charming country hotels, wineries, and mountain resorts. In the far west, the ruins of Sao Miguel das Missoes are a haunting reminder of the Jesuit legacy in Brazil.

RIO GRANDE DO SUL

KEY Area illustrated

Ijui

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Towns & Cities

Antonio Prado Q Bento Goncalves 0 Canela O Caxias do Sul O Flores da Cunha O Gramado O Nova Petropolis O Porto Alegrepp352-3 O National Parks & Beach Resorts

Parque Nacional dos Aparados da Serra Torres ® Churches

Sao Miguel das Missoes p359 Tours

Vale dos Vinhedosp355

Forested hill, Parque Nacional dos Aparados da Serra

For additional map symbols see back flap

' Where to Eat pp412-13

R I O

G R A N D E

D O

S U L

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Freshwater fishing bird on the coast of Rio Grande do Sul

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GETTING AROUND Porto Alegre, the state's capital, has an airport which serves the capital cities of neighboring countries and major Brazilian cities. Excellent roads and good bus services connect all parts of Rio Grande do Sul with Porto Alegre. XX'ell-surfaced highways even connect most of the smallest towns and villages. It is essential to have a rented car, or to make advance arrangements to be met by a guide in the nearest town, if an estancia (ranch) stay has been organized. The Serra range is about two hours from Porto Alegre, and the most direct route is the congested BR-H6 highway.

" $ # ! ! &

Praça da Matriz Catedral Metropolitana Tel (051) 3225 4980. 9am–noon & 2:30– 6:30pm Mon–Fri, 9am–noon Sat. Museu Júlio de Castilhos Tel (051) 3221 3959. 10am–6pm Tue–Fri. Palácio Piratini Tel (051) 3210 4170. 9–11am & 2–5pm Mon–Fri. Teatro São Pedro Tel (051) 3227 5100. noon–6pm Tue–Fri.

5;4*+*/4 54:.+8/-.:('415,:.+ !/5;'/('58:52+-8+9+8<+*'9' 58:;-;+9+3/2/:'8?-'88/954:.':-;'8*+* '-'/49: "6'4/9.+4)85').3+4:/4:595;:.+84 8'@/2 #5*'?/:/9!/58'4*+*5";29)'6/:'2 '4*'4/3658:'4::8'*/4-658:#.+)/:? Detail, Museu (5'9:9953+/368+99/<+6;(2/)(;/2*/4-9 de Arte do Rio Grande do Sul '4*'2/<+2?9:8++:2/,+59:9/-.:9'8+ 25)':+*/4:.+/*'*+'/>'5=+8 #5=4 +9/-4+*(?:.+8+45=4+* :'2/'4'8)./:+):/5<'44/ '4*/*'*+2:'$66+8 #5=4'8+'95,*5=4:5=4 /5<+4'2+:.+ Catedral =./2+:.+(+9:8+9:';8'4:9('89'4*.5:+29'8+ Metropolitana,+':;8+9 /4)8+'9/4-2?)54)+4:8':+*/4:.+9;(;8(9

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Mercado Público Praça XV de Novembro. 9am– 7pm Mon–Sat.

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PORTO ALEGRE CITY CENTER

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 1,416,400. 4 miles (6 km) N of city. Mercado do Bom Fim, Loja 12, Parque Farroupilha, (0800) 517 686. Semana Farroupilha (Sep). www.portoalegre.rs.gov.br/ turismo

Memorial do Rio Grande do Sul Praça da Alfândega. Tel (054) 3224 7210. 10am–6pm Tue–Sat. www.memorial.rs.gov.br

Ornate foyer of the Neo-Classical Teatro São Pedro

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The picturesque Parque Aldeia do Imigrante, Nova Petrópolis

66 miles (106 km) N of Porto Alegre. 18,700. Parque Aldeia do Imigrante, (054) 3281 1398. Festa do Folklore (Jul), Oktoberfest (Oct). www.novapetropolis.rs.gov.br

Casa de Cultura Mário Quintana

+83'4/33/-8'4:9'88/./(/:/5498+2':/4- :535*+84'8:'4*2/:+8':;8+ (;/2*/4-9/*='?'254- '295.59:9'4;3(+85,/4:+8 +9:/4-:8'<+2/4-+>./(/:/549 :.+'<+4;+/9:.+/4:+8+9:/4- Usina do Gasômetro Parque Aldeia do Imigrante Santander Cultural Av Presidente João Goulart 551. =./).6'?9:8/(;:+:5:.+ Praça da Alfândega. Tel (051) 3287 Tel (051) 3212 5979. 9am–9pm 8+-/549+'82?9+::2+89"+: 5500. 10am–7pm Mon–Fri & Tue–Sun. =/:./4'4'8';)'8/',58+9: 11am–7pm Sat & Sun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Works on display at the Museu de Arte do Rio Grande do Sul

Av 15 de Novembro 1966. Tel (054) 3281 1245. 8am–6pm daily.

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3/2+913458:.5,'4+2' /9:.+Parque do Caracol' ,58+9:8+9+8<+=/:.' ,: 3=':+8,'22./-.2/-.: Swiss-style chalet, a common sight in Gramado .+8+/9:.+ 9:+69:'/8='? Environs 2+'*/4-:5:.+('9+5,:.+ ;9: 3/2+913458:. )'9)'*+,853=.+8+
3'85;4* 58+9::8'/296'993'-4/,/)+4: :5;8/93=/:.8',:/4-'254-:.+ 8'3'*5/97;/:+*8'3':/) ,'9:,25=/4- !/5 '8'4.'4' =':+8,'229:.':+4.'4)+:.+ '4*:.++9).5)52':+9.569'4* 8+9:';8'4:996+)/'2/@/4-/4 ).++9+,54*;+954+/9 +4)5;8'-+*:5(+2/+<+:.': 8'3'*5.'9)544+):/549 =/:. "=/:@+82'4* #./9/9 +4:/8+2?'4',,+):':/54'9542? 38,000. from Porto Alegre. Central de Informações, Lago '<+8?:/4?3/458/:?5,:.+ da Fama 227, (054) 3282 1510. 656;2':/54/95,"=/9958/-/4 www.canelaturismo.com.br '4*(+4+':./:9<+4++8 8'3'*5.'9358+/4)53 ./22?=/4:+898+,8+9./4- 354=/:.'43+8/)'4 9.566/4-3'22 9;33+89'4*;4965/2:4':;8+ 8'3'*59;8

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp388–9 and pp412–13

! ! " $

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Picturesque vineyard in the Vale dos Vinhedos.

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Visitor information

TIPS FOR DRIVERS Starting point: Bento Gonçalves (see p356). Length: Allow a full day to visit several wineries and a stop for lunch. Driving conditions: The main road is paved while the side roads have good-quality gravel surfaces.

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Environs Garibaldi(:4(33;6>51<:;

Vinhos Salton, one of the many wineries in Bento Gonçalves

403,: 24:6<;/6-,5;6 65F(3=,:0:256>5-690;: :<9790:05.3@.66+*/(47(.5, :;@3,:7(92305.>05,: (9;6- ;/,(;;9(*;0656-.,;;05.;6;/0: 30;;3,;6>50:;/,90+,65;/, :;,(4,5.05,256>5(:(90( <4(F(69B"46205.(9@D (5(4,*644653@.0=,5;6 ;6<90:;:;,(4;9(05:

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-(4030,:46:;6->/64 -(9405;/,=(33,@%0:0;69:;6 ;/,*667,9(;0=,(9,:/6>5 ;/,,5;09,796+<*;065 101,000. Rua Mal 796*,::-964;/,*9<:/05. Deodoro 70, (054) 3453 6934. 6-.9(7,:;6)6;;305.#6<9: www.bentogoncalves.com.br *<3405(;,>0;/;(:;05.:#/,9, ?(405,()6;;3,6-9(A030(5 (9,(3:65<4,96<: >05,(5+05(33302,30/66+ >05,*,33(9:+6;;05.;/, ;/,3(),3>03305+0*(;,,5;6 ;6>5*,5;,9>/0*/(3:66--,9 396,000. Praça Dante -9,,;6<9:(5+;(:;05.: 65F(3=,:(:0;:73(*,6- Alighieri, (054) 3222 1875. "4(33,9796+<*,9:(3:6 690.05,5;6(:;/,*0;@ www.visitecaxias.com.br 796+<*,-05,>05,: 0:<:<(33@*(33,+0:65, #/,:,(9,36*(;,+1<:; 6-;/,3(9.,:;796 (:/69;+0:;(5*,-964 6<5+,+05 (?0(:+6 +<*,9:6->05,05 +6>5;6>5,5;6 "<3C69:0473@(?0(:(:0; 9(A03>0;/=09;<(33@ 05+,,+=05,:,?;,5+ 0:<:<(33@*(33,+C(365.>0;/ ,=,9@7(;*/6-3(5+ ,5;665F(3=,:>(:65,6- 90./;<7;6;/,*0;@ 6<;:0+,;/,*0;@ ;/,,(930,:;;(30(5 ;6 3040;:(5+;/96<./ .96>05.=05,: #/,*0;@:,*6564@ ),,:;()30:/,+05;/,",99( ;/,),(<;0-<3%(3, 9,30,::63,3@65 02,0;:5,0./)6905.:,;;3, +6:%05/,+6:;/, Wine produced in .9(7,:(5+>05, %(33,@6-%05,@(9+: 4,5;:*644,9*0(3(*;0=0;@ Bento Gonçalves 796+<*;065(:(

(;-09:;9,=63=,+,5;09,3@ 9,:<3;6->/0*/,5;6: (96<5+>05,796+<*;065)<; Cooperativa Vinícola Aurora =05;5,9:+6405(;,;/, 6=,9;/,5,?;*,5;<9@6;/,9 Rua Olavo Bilac 500, Cidade Alta. 9(A030(54(92,; (.96796*,::05.05+<:;90,: Tel (054) 3455 2000. 8:15am– (:>,33(:;,?;03,:+,=,367,+ ,5;6>(:65,6-;/, 5:15pm Mon, 8:30–11:30am Sun. ,(930,:;;(30(5*644<50;0,: #6+(@(?0(:0:!069(5+, +6 "<3::,*65+3(9.,:;*0;@ ,:;()30:/,+05;/,",99( Museu do Imigrante (-;,9 69;63,.9, (H*/(05 6>,=,9 Rua Erny Hugo Dreher 127, 3;/6<./;6>,9)36*2:(5+ ;/,9(70+.96>;/6-;/,*0;@: (Planalto). Tel (054) 3451 1773. 6;/,9*65*9,;,)<03+05.:/(=, <9)(5*,5;,9059,*,5; 8–11:15am & 1:30–5:15pm 6=,9;(2,54<*/6-(?0(: +,*(+,:/(:3,-;-,>;9(*,: Tue–Fri, 1–5pm Sat, 9am–noon :64,=0:0)3,;9(*,:6-;/, 6-;(30(505-3<,5*,+<905.;/, Sun. *0;@:/,90;(.,:<9=0=, ,(93@@,(9:6-0440.9(;065 #/, Museu do Imigrante/(: (90*/*633,*;0656-(9;0-(*;: 9,3(;05.;6,5;6:7065,,9 :,;;3,9:>0;/9664:-6*<:05. 65;/,(990=(36-;/,0440 .9(5;:(5+;/,*,5;9(3963, 6-;/,(;/630**/<9*/05 ;/,*644<50;@(5+-(9405. 057(9;0*<3(9=0;0*<3;<9, &05,0::;033796+<*,+05 ;6>5)@3(9.,*644,9*0(3 67,9(;065:#/,Cooperativa Vinícola Aurora0:;/,),:; 256>5(5+<969(0:;/, 46:;796405,5;>05, 796+<*,9059(A03>0;/ Maria Fumaça, plying between Bento Gonçalves and Garibaldi (4,4),9:/076-:64,

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp388–9 and pp412–13

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14,000. Praça Garibaldi 57, (054) 3293 1500. www. antonioprado.com

#/,3(:;6-;/,4(169 :,;;3,4,5;:5;G506 9(+6 >(:,:;()30:/,+05;/,;(30(5 *63650(3A65,05 6*(;,+ 05;/,A65,:569;/,95 ,?;9,4,(5+<5;039,*,5;3@ >0;/76693052:;66;/,9 Artifacts displayed in Museu Casa de Pedra in Caxias do Sul *,5;,9:5;G506 9(+6-(03,+ ;64(2,;/,;9(5:0;065-964 ,=,54(05;(0505.;/,%,5,;0(5 -(9405.*644<50;@;6 #/, Museu Municipal)<03; 05 (:(790=(;,9,:0+,5*, +0(3,*;6-;/,090440.9(5; 05+<:;90(3;6>5 -69),(9:4(205.0;;/,46:; +6*<4,5;:;/,/0:;69@6- #/,3(*26-+,=,3674,5;0: 65,6-;/,9,(:65:>/@;/, ;(30(56-9(A030(5;6>5: (?0(::;(9;05.>0;/;/, ;6>5>(:+,*3(9,+((;065(3 (990=(36-;/,-09:;0440.9(5;: Environs ,90;(., "0;,05 ;: -964%,5,;6#/,4<:,<4: 7,94(5,5;*633,*;06505*3<+,: 6*(;,+05(-,9;03,(5+ 7(9;0*<3(9(;;9(*;0650:0;: 6)1,*;:+6*<4,5;:(5+ 70*;<9,:8<,=(33,@Otávio *65*,5;9(;0656->66+,5 7/6;6.9(7/:*/(9;05.;/, Rocha403,: 24 :;65,)(:,)<03+05.:,9,*;,+ +,=,3674,5;6-;/,*0;@ :6<;/>,:;6-369,:+(<5/( )@;(30(50440.9(5;: #/, Museu Casa de 3<:;,9,+(96<5+;/, 0:,:7,*0(33@:;90205.>0;/ ;6>5:*,5;9(3:8<(9,Praça Pedra/6<:,+05(*(9,-<33@ =05,:,?;,5+05.+6>5;6;/, Garibaldi(5+;/,96(+:;/(; 79,:,9=,+:;65,-(94/6<:, 4(05:;9,,;:#/,=033(.,/(: ,?;,5+044,+0(;,3@6--0; )<03;05 :/,+:30./; ),*64,(767<3(973(*,;6 ,(;(5+;/,9,0:.66+*/60*, :64, /0:;690*)<03+05.: 65;/,30=,:6-;/,7065,,9 6-9,:;(<9(5;::7,*0(30A05.05 (9,796;,*;,+(5+7,9-,*;3@ :,;;3,9:>0;/05;,9,:;05.+0: 73(@:6-;663:-<950;<9,(5+ :0473,)<;;(:;@569;/,95 4(05;(05,+6:;6-;/, 7/6;6.9(7/: ;(30(5*6<5;9@-(9, )90./;3@7(05;,+*3(7)6(9+ 56;/,9 403,:24 :;9<*;<9,:>0;/;/,09 Museu Casa de Pedra >,:;6-;E=06 !6*/(0: <5*/(5.,+05;,9069:/(=, Rua Matteo Gianella 531, Nova Pádua(56;/,9>05, ),,5;<95,+05;6:/67:69 Bairro Santa Catarina. Tel (054) 796+<*05. >/6:, :4(33.6=,954,5;6--0*,: 3221 2423. 8:30am–5pm Tue– 05/()0;(5;:(9,+,:*,5+,+ 5,6-;/,:,)<03+05.:0: Sun. 56>;/,;6>5/(3365 9(F( -964%,5,;0(50440.9(5;: Museu Municipal (90)(3+03:636*(;,+65 #/,=033(.,:-6*(37605;0: Rua Visconde de Pelotas, 586. 9(F((90)(3+0;/,Museu de ;/,*/<9*/*/(9(*;,90:;0*(33@ Tel (054) 3221 2423. 9am–5pm Antônio Prado6--,9:(<:,-<3 ;(30(505:;@3,>0;/(),33 Tue. /0:;690*(36=,9=0,>6-;/, ;6>,9:,;:30./;3@;6;/,:0+, 6-;/,4(05:;9<*;<9,:/69; +,=,3674,5;6-;/,;6>5 +0:;(5*,-(9;/,9>,:;;/,9, (9,)9,(;/;(205.=0,>:),36> Museu de Antônio Prado Rua Francisco Maracantônio 77. 65;6;/,-(:;-36>05.!06+(: Tel (054) 3293 1277. 8:30am– 27,000. from Caxias do Sul. 5;(:(5+(3(5+:*(7,6-;/, 12:30pm & 1:30–5pm Tue–Fri, www.floresdacunha.com.br 5;(:%(33,@(40?6-=05, 1–5pm Sat, 11am–5pm Sun. @(9+:(5+7904(9@-69,:; #/,-(*;;/(;369,:+(<5/( )6(:;:65,6-;/,/0./,:; *65*,5;9(;065:6->05,90,: 05 !069(5+,+6"<3>033 *64,(:30;;3,:<9790:,;6 =0:0;69:<:;()6<;,=,9@ (=(03()3,7(;*/6-3(5+05 ;/,4<50*07(30;@0:.0=,5 ;6.9(7,=05,:(5+ 9(5.05.-964:4(33(9;0:(5 >05,796+<*,9:;6/<., *667,9(;0=,: #/,;6>56-369,:+( <5/(0;:,3-0:<59,4(92()3, )<;;/,:<996<5+05.=033(.,: (5+/(43,;:*6<3+,(:03@), 40:;(2,5-69:0473,569;/,95 Colorful stone-base wooden houses in Antônio Prado ;(30(5-(9405.*644<50;0,:

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Araucaria pine trees above the Cânion do Itaimbezinho, Aparados da Serra

>0;/;/,5,0./)6905.:;(;, 6- #(5;((;(905($699,: 0:5(4,+-69(:,90,:6-/<., )(:(3;96*2:69B;6>,9:D;/(; 1<;05;6;/,6*,(5(5+)9,(2 ;/,6;/,9>0:,:,,405.3@ <5,5+05.),(*/$/,;6>,9: (9,36*(;,+05;/,Parque da Guarita65;/,:6<;/,95 7,904,;,96-;6>5,;>,,5 ;/,:,(*30--;6>,9:(9,:(5+@ *6=,:6--,905.796;,*;065 -964-0,9*,;3(5;0*9633,9: #;(09:3,(+;6*(=,:65;/, *30--:-(*05.;/,67,5:,( >/0*/>,9,-694,+6=,9 ;/,*6<9:,6-4033065:6- @,(9:)@;/,-69*,6-;/, 6*,(5964(/033(;;/, :6<;/,95,+.,6-;/,7(92 =0:0;69:*(5,516@;9,4,5+6<: =0,>:6-;/,),(<;0-<33@ 9<..,+*6(:;305,69;9,2 ;/96<./;/,+<5,:6- 403, 24365.!9(0(+,;(7,=( $/,>(;,9(;;(7,=(0: ;9(58<03(5+-(=69()3, -69:>04405.

,5()305.=0:0;69:;6=0,> ;/,*(5@6505(33+09,*;065: $/,365.,:;;9(03$903/(+6 "06+660*(5),*/(33,5. 05.-69<5:,(:65,+/02,9:; from Canela to Cambará do Sul, 0:*36:,+05;/,9(05@:,(:65 then taxi. (054) 3251 1262. +<,;6;/,+(5.,96--366+05. 9am–5pm Wed–Sun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from Porto Alegre. *(5@65: ;0:(96<5+65,6- ;/,3(9.,:;6-;/,:,*(5@65:C Av Barão do Rio Branco, (051) 3626 1937. www.clictorres.com.br Canion do ItaimbezinhoC ;/(;;/,!(98<,(*065(3+6: $/,4(05/0./30./;6- 7(9(+6:+(#,99(65,6- ;/,365.*6(:;305,6-"06 9(A03:-09:;5(;065(37(92: Waves lapping against the cliffs, >(:*9,(;,+05 9(5+,+6#<30:$699,: Parque da Guarita 36*(;,+5,(9;/,)69+,9 (5065+6;(04),A05/6 0:( -; 4+,,7 403,24365.*(5@65 THE RISE AND COLLAPSE OF JESUIT MISSIONS -,(;<905.:,=,9(3,*6:@:;,4: 694<*/6-;/, ;/(5+ ;/*,5;<90,: 4,9.05.05;665,(56;/,9 ;/,<(9(5G5+0(5:6->/(;0:56>569;/ >0;/;9(5:0;065A65,:),;>,,5 >,:;,95"069(5+,+6#<3(:>,33(:7(9;: ;/,4 $/,73(;,(<(96<5+ 6- 9.,5;05((5+!(9(.<(@>,9,*65;9633,+ ;(04),A05/60:4(053@.0=,5 )@;/,,:<0;:$/,-09:;'*0/$*644<50;@ 6=,9;6*(;;3,7(:;<9,>/03, >(:,:;()30:/,+05 6;/,9:-6336>,+ +,5:,(;(;3E5;0*( ( 05*3<+05. 9(A03: #F60.<,3>/0*/>(: % *6=,9:;(04),A05/6: -6<5+,+05 =,9;04,<(9(5G 36>,99,(*/,:$/,()<5+(5; 05-3<,5*,+ (968<,4<:0*(9*/0;,*;<9,7(05; -369(9(5.,:-96430*/,5: 05.(5+:*<37;<9,),.(5;6-36<90:/$/, (5+46::,:;669*/0+:(5+ Santa Cecilia, #7(50:/(5+!69;<.<,:,(<;/690;0,:),*(4, 6;/,9-36>,905.73(5;:(5+ wood 05*9,(:05.3@*65*,95,+()6<;;/,76>,96- .0(5;(9(<*(90(705,:$9(03: sculpture ;/,,:<0;:>/03,"64,>(:>6990,+;/(;;/, (96<5+;/,,+.,6-;/, 69+,9>(:;6605+,7,5+,5;6-7(7(3(<;/690;@5 *(5@65(9,>,334(92,+ #7(50:/(5+!69;<.<,:,-69*,:,?7,33,+;/,,:<0;:$/, =(9@05.053,5.;/),;>,,5 40::065:>,9,9(A,+;6;/,.96<5+69()(5+65,+;65(;<9, 403, 24(5+ 403,: 24>0;/6):,9=(;690,:

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp388–9 and pp412–13

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

#<9=0=05.;/96<./*,5;<90,:6-5,.3,*;;/,#F6 0.<,30::06579,:,5;:(-05,,?(473,6-;/, <(9(5G(968<,:;@3,()3,5+6-),90(5(5+ 05+0.,56<:(9*/0;,*;<9(3,3,4,5;:$/,:, 05-3<,5*,:(9,=0:0)3,05(9*/0;,*;<9(3 +,;(03:7(9;0*<3(93@05;/,*(9=,+ Wooden :;65,>692(5+05;/,>66+,5:*<37;<9,: sculpture /6<:,+05;/,4<:,<4$/,40::065>(: +,:0.5(;,+(%# &693+,90;(., #0;,05 3;/6<./;/,(9,((96<5+#F60.<,3/(:),,5.0=,5 6=,9;6-(943(5+;/,40::0659,;(05:(5(096-0:63(;065

São Miguel. from Porto Alegre to Santo Ângelo, then bus. (055) 3664 1291. Festa do Gaúcho (some Sunday afternoons). www. rotamissoes.com.br Museu das Missões Rua São Nicolau s/n. 9am–noon & 2–6pm daily (winter), 9am–noon & 2–7pm daily (summer). Sound & Light Show 7pm (winter), 9pm (summer) daily.

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Entrance

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TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY 362389 WHERE TO EAT 390413 SHOPPING IN BRAZIL 414415 ENTERTAINMENT IN BRAZIL 416417 SPECIALIZED HOLIDAYS & OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 418421

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PRICES & PAYMENTS 756#564#8'.'459#06(+0#0%+#. 5'%74+6;51&1*16'.#0& 190'45 &'215+6 9+..%'46#+0.;$'4'37+4'& 9*'4'#5/#0;5/#..'42412 '46+'5/#;4'37+4'2#;/'06+0 #&8#0%'61%18'46*''06+4' &74#6+101(6*'56#;'52'% +#..;+0*+)*5'#51014(14 9''-'0&52'%+#.5 6+5#.51014/#.(14*16'.5 +04#<+.61#5-6*'%.+'0661 5'0&#(#:142*161%12;1( 6*'%4'&+6%#4&75'&61/#-' 6*'4'5'48#6+10*'4'#510 (146*+5+5&7'616*'+0%4'#5 +0)07/$'41(64#8'.'459*1 %*#0)'6*'+464#8'.2.#05#0& 6*'064;61&'0;6*';'8'4 /#&'6*'4'5'48#6+10 %12; 1(6*'%4'&+6%#4&>+(016 4'2146'&561.'0>&1'56'0& 612418'6*#66*'2'4510

A swanky new Serhs Natal Grand Hotel on Via Costeira, Natal Bags of spices and herbs at the fiera livre (open-air market) in Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro.

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Plush lobby of Hotel Bourbon Curitiba, one of Curitiba’s premium hotels

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Children’s playroom, a feature in many Brazilian hotels

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Aerial view of the Marriott Resort in Costa do Sauípe, Bahia

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BUDGET OPTIONS .4(%-!).!2%!36)3)4%$ "94/52)3434(%2%!2%-!.9

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DIRECTORY BOOKING

Blue Tree

Tropical

Expedia

Tel (0800) 150 500. www.bluetree.com.br

Tel (0800) 701 2670. www.tropicalhotel.com.br

www.expedia.com

Last Minute www.lastminute.com

CHAIN HOTELS Accor Tel (0800) 703 7000. www.accor.com.br

Atlântica Hotels Tel (0800) 55 5855. www.atlanticahotels. com.br

Bristol Tel (0800) 411 816. www.bristolhoteis.com.br

Luxor Tel (0800) 282 2070. www.luxor-hotels.com

Othon Tel (0800) 785 0505. www.othonhotels.com.br

Transamérica Tel (0800) 012 6060. www.transamerica.com.br

Praia do Forte Eco Resort Tel (0800) 718 888. www.praiadoforte.com.br

POUSADAS

BUDGET OPTIONS

Roteiros de Charme

Federação Brasileira de Albergues da Juventude

Tel (021) 2287 1592. www.roteirosdecharme. com.br

Tel (021) 2286 0303. www.hostel.org.br

RESORTS

CAMPING

Costa do Sauipe

Camping Clube do Brasil

Tel (071) 2104 8470. www.costadosauipe. com.br

Tel (021) 3479 4200. www. campingclube. com.br

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PRICE CATEGORIES These price bands are for a standard double room per night (not per person), including tax and service charges. Under $35 $35–75 $75–120 $120–175 Over $175

RIO DE JANEIRO CITY AIRPORT Luxor Aeroporto

Aeroporto Internacional, Galeão, 21941 570 Tel (021) 2468 8998 Fax (021) 3398 3983 Rooms 64 Located right in the airport terminal, the Luxor Aeroporto is a convenient choice for travelers arriving late at the airport, as well as for those who are not planning to go into the city center. The hotel also offers rooms for shorter periods, which are ideal for freshening up or resting before a flight. www.luxor-hotels.com

BARRA DA TIJUCA Royalty Barra

Av do Pepé 690, 22620 170 Tel (021) 24835 373 Fax (021) 2493 0482 Rooms 249 Since its inauguration in 2000, the Royalty Barra has offered quality accommodation in one of the most sought-after areas of the Barra beach. It offers a sizable sundeck and swimming pool. Guests will probably need a car to explore Rio, and will have to use taxis to get around in Barra itself. www.royaltyhotel.com.br

BARRA DA TIJUCA Inter-Continental Rio

Av Prefeito Mendes de Moraes 222, 22610 095 Tel (021) 3323 2200 Fax (021) 3323 2295 Rooms 429 A major resort property with large pool area, tennis courts, and leisure and recreational activities, this hotel is an excellent choice for business travelers. Many of the rooms have views over the Gavea Golf Course, the beach, or Pedra da Gavea, the beautiful mountain that is home to the city’s hang-gliders. www.ichotelsgroup.com

BARRA DA TIJUCA Trypp Barra

Av das Américas 7897, 22793 081 Tel (021) 2438 8800 Fax (021) 2438 8801 Rooms 422 Part of the fast-expanding Sol Melia group, the Trypp Barra is popular with visiting business executives. The hotel’s proximity to RioCentro (see p87) adds to its attraction. Though not located on the beachfront, it offers a shuttle bus to the beach. In addition, it has its own pool. www.solmelia.com

BARRA DA TIJUCA Windsor Barra

Av Sernambetiba 2630, 22620 170 Tel (021) 2195 5000 Fax (021) 2195 5050 Rooms 338 Opened for business at the end of 2005, the Windsor Barra is a modern, purpose-built hotel belonging to the Windsor Hotel group. The hotel offers modern, well-equipped rooms with views over Barra and the beach, a rooftop sundeck, pool, and convention center. www.windsorhoteis.com

BARRA DA TIJUCA Sheraton Barra

Av Lucio Costa 3150, 22630 010 Tel (021) 3139 8000 Fax (021) 3139 8085 Rooms 292 Inaugurated in 2003, the Sheraton Barra is the first luxury resort property to come up on the beachfront in Barra. While many European and North American visitors have yet to discover Barra, this hotel is in high demand by Brazilian and other Latin American visitors, who favor this state-of-the-art property. www.starwoodhotels.com

CENTRO Guanabara Palace

Av Presidente Vargas 392, 22071 000 Tel (021) 2195 6000 Fax (021) 2516 1582 Rooms 485

Map 5 D3

The largest hotel in the Windsor Hotel group, the 1950 Guanabara Palace has been totally modernized with a brand-new exterior. Located in the heart of downtown Rio, the hotel is popular with business executives. It features a good rooftop sun terrace and pool with views over the bay and Centro. www.windsorhoteis.com

CENTRO Serrador Palace

Praça Mahatma Gandhi, 20031 000 Tel (021) 2195 6000 Fax (021) 2516 1582 Rooms 350

Map 5 E5

Situated in a historic, listed building that dates from 1936, the Serrador Palace has a privileged location just off the Cinelândia end of Avenida Rio Branco, offering pleasant views from the rooms. A new rooftop sun terrace, pool, sauna, and fitness center were recently added. www.windsorhoteis.com

COPACABANA & LEME Bandeirantes

Rua Barata Ribeiro 548, 22040 002 Tel (021) 2548 6252 Fax (021) 2547 6703 Rooms 96

Map 3 D2

The Bandeirantes offers clean and comfortable budget accommodation with few frills. In the bustling heart of Copacabana and just three blocks from the beach, the hotel is located close to the city’s main theaters, cinemas, and nightclubs. www.hotelbandeirantes.com.br Key to Symbols see back cover flap

COPACABANA & LEME Benidorm Palace

Rua Barata Ribeiro 547, 22040 001 Tel (021) 2548 8880 Fax (021) 2256 6396 Rooms 77

Map 3 D2

Opposite the Bandeirantes, on busy Rua Barata Ribeiro, the Benidorm Palace offers similar comfortable budget accommodation. The rooms at this hotel are simply appointed, but other features include a small rooftop sun terrace, dip pool, and fitness center. www.benidorm.com.br

COPACABANA & LEME Lancaster Othon Travel Av Atlântica 1470, 22021 000 Tel (021) 2106 0200 Fax (021) 2521 7782 Rooms 69

Map 3 F1

Belonging to the budget range of the Othon group, the Othon Travel is one of the largest and most traditional of the Brazilian hotel chains that dominated Copacabana in the 1960s and the next two decades. This is a good choice for those looking for cozy budget accommodation right on the beachfront. www.hoteis-othon.com.br

COPACABANA & LEME Oceano

Rua Hilário de Gouveia 17, 22040 020 Tel (021) 2548 4260 Fax (021) 2235 3644 Rooms 90

Map 3 E2

Built in 1995, the Oceano offers modern rooms in the heart of Copacabana, a stone’s throw from the beachfront. As an added bonus, the hotel also has a rooftop sun terrace and small pool, while rooms at the front have balconies with partial views of the beach. www.oceanohotel.com.br

COPACABANA & LEME Acapulco

Rua Gustavo Sampaio 854, 22010 010 Tel (021) 2275 0022 Fax (021) 2275 3396 Rooms 122

Map 3 F1

Tucked away behind Le Meridien, the Acapulco is set just one block back from the beach. It was opened in 1971, but has since been modernized and refurbished. The hotel is popular with business travelers who work in, or go to, the city center, and still want to stay in and around the action in Copacabana. www.acapulcopacabana.com.br

COPACABANA & LEME Califórnia Othon Classic Av Atlântica 2616, 22041 001 Tel (021) 2106 0200 Fax (021) 2521 7782 Rooms 113

Map 3 D3

Built at the end of the 1940s, the California Othon Classic is part of the Othon group’s range of hotels. The chain reflects traditional architecture through intimate accommodation. Some beachfront rooms at this hotel offer balconies. www.othonhotels.com

COPACABANA & LEME Luxor Regente

Av Atlântica 3716, 22070 001 Tel (021) 2525 2070 Fax (021) 2267 7693 Rooms 236

Map 3 D3

Considered to be the best of the three hotels offered in Copacabana by Luxor, a small traditional Brazilian chain, the beachfront Luxor Regente offers comfortable accommodation and good facilities. A rooftop sun terrace and small dip pool are also available. www.luxor-hotels.com

COPACABANA & LEME Orla Copacabana

Av Atlântica 4122, 22070 002 Tel (021) 2525 2425 Fax (021) 2287 9134 Rooms 115

Map 3 D4

Opened in 2001, the Orla offers reasonably priced contemporary beachfront accommodation at the Ipanema end of Copacabana. The on-site rooftop sundeck, dip pool, and fitness center offer spectacular views along nearly the entire length of the beach to Sugar Loaf (see pp76–7) in the distance. www.orlahotel.com.br

COPACABANA & LEME Ouro Verde

Av Atlântica 1456, 22021 000 Tel (021) 2543 4123 Fax (021) 2543 4776 Rooms 64

Map 3 F1

For most of the 1950s and 60s, the Ouro Verde was considered one of the world’s great small hotels, a forerunner of today’s boutique hotels. Though it has lost some of its former glory, this establishment offers good value for people who want to stay in more traditional and sedate surroundings on the beachfront. www.dayrell.com.br

COPACABANA & LEME Plaza Copacabana

Av Princesa Isabel 263, 22011 010 Tel (021) 2195 5500 Fax (021) 2549 9373 Rooms 237

Map 3 F1

The Plaza is one of a number of Rio hotels belonging to the Windsor Hotel group that have been totally refurbished and modernized. It is particularly popular with Japanese tourists and offers a number of special services for them. There is a rooftop sundeck and pool with views over Copacabana and the beach. www.windsorhoteis.com

COPACABANA & LEME South American Copacabana

Rua Francisco Sá 90, 22080 010 Tel (021) 2227 9161 Fax (021) 2267 0748 Rooms 99

Map 2 C4

Situated in a residential area and conveniently located within a short walk of both Copacabana and Ipanema beaches, the South American Copacabana opened for business in 1995. It offers contemporary, yet unfussy, budget accommodation, with a rooftop sundeck, pool, and fitness center. www.southamericanhotel.com.br

COPACABANA & LEME Excelsior Copacabana

Av Atlântica 1800, 22021 001 Tel (021) 2195 5800 Fax (021) 2257 1850 Rooms 233

Map 3 F2

Although built in 1950, the Excelsior is unrecognizable after being completely modernized and given a facelift at the end of the 1990s. It is a popular choice for business and leisure travelers. Rooms are functional, with many offering good views over Copacabana beach. There is a rooftop sundeck and pool. www.windsorhoteis.com

COPACABANA & LEME Pestana Rio Atlântica

Av Atlântica 2964, 22070 000 Tel (021) 2548 6332 Fax (021) 2255 6410 Rooms 217

Map 3 D3

Another modern Copacabana beachfront hotel, the Pestana Rio Atlântica is as popular with visiting business executives as it is with the tourists. Rooms are attractively decorated and furnished, and all have balconies. It offers a sizable rooftop sundeck and pool with stunning panoramic views over the beach. www.pestana.com

COPACABANA & LEME Portinari

Rua Francisco Sá 17, 22080 000 Tel (021) 3222 8800 Fax (021) 3222 8800 Rooms 66

Map 2 C4

Well-priced and contemporary, the Portinari lies a short distance off Copacabana beach. Rooms are spread over 11 floors, with each floor offering a different style of room conceptualized by leading Brazilian designers. Guests have the choice of selecting a design and atmosphere that suits them best. www.hotelportinari.com.br

COPACABANA & LEME Rio Internacional

Av Atlântica 1500, 22021 000 Tel (021) 2546 8000 Fax (021) 2542 5443 Rooms 117

Map 3 E2

This trendy business and tourist hotel is located on the Copacabana beachfront. Standard rooms all have balconies and sea views, while the deluxe rooms offer an option of large beachfront balconies or wall-to-wall windows with panoramic views down and across the beach. www.riointernacional.com.br

COPACABANA & LEME Rio Othon Palace

Av Atlântica 3264, 22070 001 Tel (021) 2106 1500 Fax (021) 2521 7782 Rooms 602

Map 2 C3

Built in 1976, this 30-story hotel is a flagship of the Othon Hotel group. It is a landmark along the sweep of Copacabana and offers spectacular views from many of its rooms. Facilities include a rooftop pool and sundeck. Due to its size, the Othon is popular with groups and for events. www.hoteis-othon.com.br

COPACABANA & LEME Copacabana Palace

Av Atlântica 1702, 22021 001 Tel (021) 2548 7070 Fax (021) 2235 7330 Rooms 225

Map 3 E2

Opening its doors for the first time in 1923, this hotel is now a part of the Orient-Express group. Its old-fashioned glamor has attracted world leaders, royalty, and Hollywood stars. The huge pool and surrounding area are stunning, while the poolside Cipriani restaurant (see p395) is one of the city’s finest. www.copacabanapalace.com.br

COPACABANA & LEME JW Marriott

Av Atlântica 2600, 22041 001 Tel (021) 2545 6500 Fax (021) 2545 6555 Rooms 245

Map 3 D2

The newest luxury hotel along the Copacabana beachfront, this Marriott flagship opened in 2001. Offering well-appointed rooms, it is favored by American business executives and tourists. The beach-facing rooms and suites are more popular. It has a small rooftop pool and sundeck. www.marriottbrasil.com

COPACABANA & LEME Le Meridien

Av Atlântica 1020, 22010 000 Tel (021) 3873 8850 Fax (021) 3873 8788 Rooms 496

Map 3 F1

Towering 37 floors over Copacabana Beach, Le Meridien marks the spot where Copacabana becomes Leme. The hotel is very popular with French visitors, though it has built up a global following since opening in 1975. Its flagship restaurant, Le Saint Honoré (see p395), is excellent. www.rio.lemeridien.com

COPACABANA & LEME Sofitel Rio de Janeiro

Av Atlântica 4240, 22070 002 Tel (021) 2525 1232 Fax (021) 2525 1200 Rooms 388

Map 3 D5

The Rio flagship of the Accor group, the Sofitel was originally opened in 1979 by Frank Sinatra. Since becoming part of Accor in the late 1990s, the hotel has been totally refurbished to the highest international standards. The spacious rooms all have balconies, most with memorable views of Copacabana. www.accorhotels.com

FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO Botafogo Easy Hostel

Rua Bambina 158, Botafogo, 22251 050 Tel (021) 2527 4536 Fax (021) 2535 3788 Rooms 14 A clean and safe budget option, this friendly hostel is located in the heart of Botafogo, not far from Botafogo metro station. It offers a mixture of dorms, four-bed private rooms, and double rooms with en suite bathrooms. Buffet breakfast is included in the tariff, and there is even a barbecue and pool area. www.botafogohostel.com

FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO Rio Hostel

Rua General Dionísio 63, Botafogo, 22271 050 Tel (021) 2586 0303 Fax (021) 2286 5652 Rooms 12 Comfortable, well-maintained, and exuding warmth, this neighborhood hostel offers great value for money. Guest rooms vary in size, from double rooms with en suite bathrooms to 12-bunk dorms. The Rio Hostel has its own restaurant and a terrace area. www.riohostel.com.br

FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO Argentina Hotel

Rua Cruz Lima 30, Flamengo, 22230 010 Tel (021) 2558 7233 Fax (021) 2285 4573 Rooms 80 One of the most traditional budget hotels in Rio, this 1933 hotel offers excellent value for money for travelers who do not insist on being on the beachfront. Located close to a metro station, it has easy access to the city center and Copacabana. Though a bit dated, the double rooms and four-bed rooms are cozy. www.argentinahotel.com.br

FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO Imperial

Rua da Catete 186, Catete, 20011 000 Tel (021) 2556 5212 Fax (021) 2558 5815 Rooms 98 Another great-value option for the budget traveler, the Imperial lies in historic Catete. Its proximity to the metro station gives it rapid access to both Copacabana and the city center. The tariff includes an excellent buffet breakfast that is served in its on-site restaurant. www.imperialhotel.com.br

FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO Caesar Business Botafogo

Rua da Passagem 39, Botafogo, 22220 001 Tel (021) 2131 1212 Fax (021) 2131 1200 Rooms 127 This Caesar flagship, located in one of Rio’s busiest business areas, offers business executives modern rooms and facilities to match. As the name suggests, business rather than leisure is the focus of this property, so the leisure traveler may be able to get good weekend rates and packages. www.caesarbusiness.com Key to Price Guide see p366 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO Glória

Rua do Russel, Glória, 22210 010 Tel (021) 2555 7272 Fax (021) 2555 7282 Rooms 630 The Glória, which first opened in 1922, once rivaled the Copacabana Palace for the title of Rio’s premier hotel and is still the city’s largest. It offers fantastic value for money, with the infrastructure of a grand hotel in terms of accommodation, restaurants, and a hotel swimming pool, one of the city’s best. www.hotelgloriario.com.br

IPANEMA & LEBLON Rio Hostel Ipanema Rua Barão da Torre 175, Ipanema, 20004 000 Tel (021) 2247 7269 Fax (021) 2268 0565 Rooms 9

Map 2 B4

Located three blocks from the beach in Rio’s most prestigious and upmarket quarter, this establishment offers bargain accommodation for visitors on a tight budget in shared dorms for four and six people. The hostel offers four additional rooms in another building in the same street. www.geocities.com/hostelipanema/

IPANEMA & LEBLON Mar Ipanema

Rua V. de Pirajá 539, Ipanema, 22410 003 Tel (021) 3875 9191 Fax (021) 3875 9192 Rooms 77

Map 1 C4

Small, yet modern, the Mar Ipanema offers affordable accommodation on Ipanema’s busiest and most important shopping street. The decor features very few obvious frills, although rooms are comfortable and equipped with a minibar and an individual safe. Only two blocks from Ipanema beach. www.maripanema.com.br

IPANEMA & LEBLON Parthenon Queen Elizabeth

Av Rainha Elizabeth 440, Ipanema, 22081 030 Tel (021) 3222 9100 Fax (021) 3222 9387 Rooms 51

Map 2 C5

Belonging to the Parthenon apart-hotel brand of the Accor group, the largest hotel group operating in Brazil, this hotel offers excellent value in modern, quality apartments for a longer stay. There is a playground for children and a business center, as well as on-site pools and coffee shops. www.accorhotels.com.br

IPANEMA & LEBLON Praia Ipanema

Av Vieira Souto 706, Ipanema, 22420 000 Tel (021) 2540 4949 Fax (021) 2239 6889 Rooms 105

Map 1 C5

Despite opening in 1979, the Praia Ipanema remains one of Rio’s best-kept hotel secrets. Located on the Ipanema beachfront, the hotel has rooms with balconies and sea views, while the rooftop is home to a sun terrace, small pool, fitness center, and the upbeat Bossa Nova bar. www.praiaipanema.com

IPANEMA & LEBLON Sol Ipanema

Av Vieira Souto 320, Ipanema, 22420 000 Tel (021) 2525 2020 Fax (021) 2247 8484 Rooms 90

Map 2 A5

Similar to, but not as modern as the Praia Ipanema, the Sol Ipanema is one of the few beach-front hotels in Ipanema and is a good choice if the larger deluxe hotels do not fit the budget. A rooftop sundeck and pool with views over Ipanema are on offer. www.solipanema.com

IPANEMA & LEBLON Everest Rio

Rua P. de Morais 1117, Ipanema, 22420 041 Tel (021) 2525 2200 Fax (021) 2521 3198 Rooms 156

Map 2 A5

This traditional hotel is tucked one block back from the beach, close to the bars, restaurants, and shops of Ipanema. Though not on the beach, it features a rooftop sundeck and pool with panoramic views over Ipanema and the beach and offers a high quality of accommodation and service. www.everest.com.br

Rua F. de Amoedo 34, Ipanema, 22420 202 Tel (021) 3687 2000 Fax (021) 3687 2001 Rooms 140

Map 2 B5

IPANEMA & LEBLON Ipanema Plaza

Since opening in 2000, the Ipanema Plaza has quickly built up a following among regular visitors to Rio. Stylish, well-priced, and contemporary accommodation is supported by superb facilities. The hotel has a lovely pool and sundeck with views over the beach and Ipanema to Corcovado and the Lagoa. www.ipanemaplaza.com.br

Rua P. de Morais 1008, Ipanema, 22420 040 Tel (021) 2247 7033 Fax (021) 2247 7033 Rooms 28

Map 2 A4

IPANEMA & LEBLON Ipanema Tower

Small and well-appointed boutique apart-hotel in the heart of Ipanema. Most of the flats offer a tastefully decorated family room, dining area, veranda, and one or two bedrooms. Located one block back from the beach, the Ipanema Tower has its own pool and fitness center and offers a breakfast service. www.ipanematower.com.br

IPANEMA & LEBLON Caesar Park

Av Vieira Souto 460, Ipanema, 22420 000 Tel (021) 2525 2525 Fax (021) 2521 6060 Rooms 223

Map 2 A5

Inaugurated in 1978, this top-notch hotel attracts both business and leisure travelers. The service is excellent and the decor exudes class. Rooms and surroundings are discreetly luxurious. Dining options are limited, but there are plenty of restaurants located close by. Tasteful rooftop sun terrace and dip pool. www.caesar-park.com

IPANEMA & LEBLON Marina All Suites

Av Delfim Moreira 696, Leblon, 22441 000 Tel (021) 2172 1100 Fax (021) 2172 1010 Rooms 38

Map 1 A5

This beachfront property has eight signature suites created by leading designers. While these vary from traditional to contemporary avant-garde, the hotel boasts a further 30 modern, comfortable suites, each with a separate lounge and home theater. There is also a small dip pool and sun terrace. www.marinaallsuites.com.br

IPANEMA & LEBLON Sheraton Rio Hotel & Towers

Av Niemeyer 121, Leblon, 22450 220 Tel (021) 2274 1122 Fax (021) 2239 5643 Rooms 559 Located on its own beach on the coast road between Leblon and São Conrado, this hotel is considered Rio’s premier resort property. Amenities featured are on par with the world’s very best Sheratons and include one of the largest pool areas in Rio, tennis courts, fitness club, and great dining and bar options. www.sheraton-rio.com

RIO DE JANEIRO STATE & ESPÍRITO SANTO ANGRA DOS REIS (Rio de Janeiro State) Pestana Angra

Estrada do Contorno 3700, Retiro Tel (024) 3364 2005 Rooms 27 With bungalows set in tropical gardens on a forested peninsula, this private beach resort provides a very high level of comfort. There are fantastic views over the sea, making this place a perfect choice for a beach vacation. Also on offer are conference facilities and a good restaurant, the Cais da Ribeira. www.pestana.com

ARRAIAL DO CABO (Rio de Janeiro State) Capitão n’Areia Pousada

Rua Santa Cruz 7, Praia dos Anjos Tel (022) 2622 2720 Rooms 32 Located on the main town beach, this family-friendly seafront hotel draws a loyal clientele for its splendid views. There is a good range of chalets and rooms to choose from, all equipped with modern conveniences, as well as a sea-facing café and the pleasant Porto das Delícias Restaurante. www.capitaopousada.com

BÚZIOS (Rio de Janeiro State) Brigitta’s Guest House

Rua das Pedras 131, Centro Tel (022) 2623 6157 Rooms 4 Brigitte Bardot stayed in this pousada at the time when her presence in Búzios put the fishing village on the map. Named for its celebrity guest, the small guesthouse stands on what is now the main shopping street, overlooking the water. Rooms are decorated with arty bric-à-brac, and the ambience is laid-back and friendly.

BÚZIOS (Rio de Janeiro State) Hibiscus Beach

Rua 1, 22 Quadra C, Praia de João Fernandes, 28950 000 Tel (022) 2623 6221 Fax (022) 2623 6221 Rooms 13 One of the best-value hotels in the area, this British-run pousada overlooks Praia de João Fernandes, one of the peninsula’s prettiest and liveliest beaches. The surrounding luxuriant tropical gardens create a calm ambience. Accommodation is in cabanas, all of which have sea views. www.hibiscusbeach.com

BÚZIOS (Rio de Janeiro State) Abracadabra

Alto do Humaita 13, 28950 000 Tel (022) 2623 1217 Rooms 16 The pool and breakfast area and the most preferred rooms in this tastefully decorated mock-Mediterranean hotel have some of the best views in Búzios. The oceanfront hotel bar is known to serve fantastic caipirinha. Good beaches are a five-minute car ride away. www.abracadabrapousada.com.br

BÚZIOS (Rio de Janeiro State) Casas Brancas

Alto do Humaitá 10, Búzios, 28950 000 Tel (022) 2623 1458 Fax (022) 2623 2147 Rooms 32 Considered to be one of Brazil’s best boutique hotels, the Casas Brancas has created a series of Mediterraneaninspired rooms with breathtaking views of the Morro do Humaíta. The hotel restaurant serves superb modern Brazilian-Mediterranean fusion cuisine. There is a first-class on-site spa. www.casasbrancas.com.br

CABO FRIO (Rio de Janeiro State) La Plage

Rua dos Badejos 40, Praia do Peró Tel (022) 2647 1746 Rooms 32 The principal suites at this beachfront hotel all come with a stunning ocean view. All suites are appointed with basic amenities, and are tastefully decorated. There is also a small play area for children. The hotel can organize trips to the nearby sand dunes. www.laplage.com.br

CABO FRIO (Rio de Janeiro State) Pousada do Leandro

Avenida Peçanha 333, Praia do Forte Tel (022) 2645 4658 Rooms 17 Owned by famous ex-Flamengo footballer José Leandro Souza Ferreira, this intimate, brightly colored pousada is located a short stroll from the town center on the area’s busiest beach, Praia do Forte. All suites come with a veranda and are equipped with modern amenities. www.pousadaleandro.com.br

GUARAPARI (Espírito Santo) Enseada Verde

Rua Duarte Mattos 27, Enseada Verde, Praia do Meaípe Tel (027) 3272 1376 Fax (027) 3272 0421 Rooms 20 Set in rainforest overlooking Praia do Meaípe, one of Guarapari’s most popular beaches, the reasonably priced Enseada Verde has pretty apartments. The pool here is very popular and the on-site restaurant has unforgettable views of the lush tropical surroundings. www.enseadaverde.com.br

ILHA GRANDE (Rio de Janeiro State) Pousada Ancoradouro

Rua da Praia, Vila do Abraão Tel (024) 3361 5153 Rooms 8 One of several pousadas in the picturesque Vila do Abraão, the Ancoradouro is located right on the beach, in the quiet part of the village. There are eight minimalistically decorated, but very well kept, apartments offering basic amenities, including a TV and a small refrigerator.

ILHA GRANDE (Rio de Janeiro State) Sítio do Lobo

Enseada das Estrelas, Ilha Grande Tel (024) 3361 4438 Rooms 9 A luxury boutique hotel run by Julinha Serrado, a famous Brazilian interior designer, the Sítio do Lobo lies on a peninsula reachable only by boat from either the mainland or Abraão town. Activities include hiking, kayaking, yoga, and tai chi. Rooms are tastefully done, though the cheaper rooms are boxy. www.sitiodolobo.com.br Key to Price Guide see p366 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

ITATIAIA (Rio de Janeiro State) Hotel Donati

Estrada Parque Nacional Km 9.5 Tel (024) 3352 1110 Rooms 25 The most comfortable of the hotels within Itatiaia’s Parque Nacional Itatiaia, Hotel Donati has chalets set in tropical woodland with trails leading directly into town. The hotel has a sauna, children’s play area, and sports facilities, and can also organize guides for park visits. www.hoteldonati.com.br

ITATIAIA (Rio de Janeiro State) Pousada Esmeralda

Estrada Parque Nacional Km 4 Tel (024) 3352 1643 Rooms 14 With 12 Swiss-style chalets and two cheaper apartments set in tropical gardens, this pousada-style hotel offers good value for money. One of the two swimming pools is fed by spring water. Other attractions include guided walks, horse-riding, sauna, and a children’s play area. www.pousadaesmeralda.com.br

ITAÚNAS (Espírito Santo) Pousada Bemtevi

Rua Adolpho Pereira Duarte 41 Tel (027) 3762 5012 Rooms 17 Deriving its name from bem-te-vi (translated as “nice to see you”), a bird commonly found in Brazil, the Pousada Bemtevi lies just off the town’s sandy main square. Clustered around the swimming pool, the suites come with a refrigerator and TV. Solar energy is used to provide hot water. www.pousadabemtevi.com

PARATY (Rio de Janeiro State) Arte Colonial

Rua da Matriz 292, Centro Histórico Tel (024) 3371 7231 Rooms 7 Housed in a colonial building right in the center of town, this French-owned pousada has a serene ambience. The best rooms are on the upper floors and have views out over the terra-cotta-tiled historic center of town. All rooms have a TV and a mini-refrigerator. www.paraty.com.br/artecolonial

PARATY (Rio de Janeiro State) Bromelias

Rodovia Rio-Santos Km 562 Tel (024) 3371 2791 Rooms 10 In the heart of the Mata Atlântica rainforest, the family-friendly Bromelias has chalets beautifully set amid natural swimming pools, waterfalls, and lush tropical gardens. The hotel also provides first-rate spa treatments and birdwatching. www.pousadabromelias.com.br

PARATY (Rio de Janeiro State) Coxixo

Rua do Comércio 362, Centro Histórico Tel (024) 3371 1460 Rooms 33 Located on the pretty cobblestone street of Paraty’s historic center, this colonial pousada is owned by famous Brazilian theater and film personality, Maria Della Costa, now in her 80s. Rooms are simply appointed, yet exude elegance. The best rooms are the upper-floor suites. www.hotelcoxixo.com.br

PARATY (Rio de Janeiro State) Pousada Pardieiro

Rua do Comércio 74, Centro Histórico Tel (024) 3371 1370 Fax (024) 3371 1139 Rooms 27 Considered to be one of the best in Brazil, this pousada is favored for its serene ambience, first-rate service, and comfortable rooms and suites. Its bougainvillea-filled gardens are visited by hummingbirds and tufted-eared marmosets. A complimentary Continental breakfast is served in the Café da Manhã. www.pousadapardieiro.com.br

PARATY (Rio de Janeiro State) Pousada do Sandi

Largo do Rosário 1, Centro Histórico Tel (024) 3371 1236 Fax (024) 3371 2100 Rooms 26 Part of an 18th-century building, this pousada is decorated with local arts and crafts. Spacious, high-ceilinged rooms are done up with colonial bric-à-brac and colorful upholstery. Pleasant and comfortable public areas and an excellent on-site restaurant and bar. www.pousadadosandi.com.br

PEDRA AZUL (Espírito Santo) Pousada Peterle

Rodovia Br 262 Km 88, 29278 000 Tel (027) 3248 1171 Rooms 15 Set in gardens on a hill, the Pousada Peterle offers scenic views of Pedra Azul. Large mock-Swiss chalets and apartments, built with eucalyptus logs, come with a living room with fireplace, one bedroom, and a veranda. Some of the stone-built rooms have pleasant rustic decor. www.pousadapeterle.com.br

PETRÓPOLIS (Rio de Janeiro State) Hotel Casablanca Imperial

Rua da Imperatriz 286, Centro, 25610 320 Tel (024) 2242 6662 Rooms 42 Close to the Museu Imperial (see p114), the city’s main attraction, the Casablanca is housed in a handsome colonial building with public balconies. All rooms have a high ceiling and are decorated with mock-colonial furniture and antiques. A very good choice for budget travelers. www.casablancahotel.com.br

PETRÓPOLIS (Rio de Janeiro State) Solar do Império

Av Koeler 376, Centro Tel (024) 2103 3000 Rooms 16 The most luxurious hotel in Petrópolis is housed in a mansion on its grandest avenue. The standards of comfort and service match the opulence of the hotel’s interiors and public spaces. Services include spa and massage, an excellent on-site restaurant, and indoor and outdoor pools. www.solardoimperio.com.br

SERRA DOS ÓRGÃOS (Rio de Janeiro State) REGUA

Caixa Postal 98112,Cachoeiras de Macacu, 28680 000 Tel (021) 2745 3998 Rooms 4 REGUA (Reserva Ecologica de Guapi Assu), funded mainly by the UK, aims to protect the Atlantic rainforest in the area. Its large villa comes with several rooms set in primary rainforest. Guided walks are offered into the Serra dos Órgãos on the reserve’s private land, which has a variety of birds, mammals, and orchids. www.regua.co.uk

SERRA DOS ÓRGÃOS (Rio de Janeiro State) Serra dos Tucanos

Caixa Postal 98125, Cachoeiras do Macacu, 28680 000 Tel (021) 2649 1557 Rooms 10 Favored by naturalists, this lodge was started by keen bird-watchers, Cristina and Andy Foster. An expert guide takes visitors on nature walks and bird-watching expeditions. The lodge offers comfortable accommodation in a resplendent Atlantic rainforest setting. www.serradostucanos.com.br

TERESÓPOLIS (Rio de Janeiro State) Hotel Rosa dos Ventos

Km 22, Estrada Teresópolis, Nova Friburgo, 25977 400 Tel (021) 2644 9900 Fax (021) 2644 9948 Rooms 42 One of the two members of Relais et Chateaux in Brazil, this fazenda-style hotel offers diverse luxurious accommodation in mock-Alpine chalets. Activities include horse-riding, cycling, fishing, and mountain-biking. Children under the age of 14 are not allowed. www.hotelrosadosventos.com.br

TRINDADE (Rio de Janeiro State) Agua do Mar

Rua das Flores, Praia de Fora Tel (024) 3371 5120 Rooms 17 Among the many modest pousadas in the region, the simple beachfront Agua do Mar is a two-minute stroll from Praia de Fora, a beach renowned for its natural beauty. While some of the rooms come with a TV and refrigerator, five superior suites come with verandas offering splendid sea views.

VITÓRIA (Espírito Santo) Hotel Ilha do Boi

Rua Braúlio Macedo 417, Ilha do Boi Tel (027) 3345 0111 Fax (027) 3345 0115 Rooms 95 This is a large beachside hotel complex with a range of different hotel environments and beautiful views over the bay. Facilities include a business center, sauna, piano bar, and an excellent restaurant serving regional specialties and Continental cuisine. Round-the-clock room service is available. www.hotelilhadoboi.com.br

MINAS GERAIS

BELO HORIZONTE Hotel Wimbledon

Av Afonso Pena Tel 0800 318383 Rooms 70 With a convenient location in the heart of town, this modest hotel meets the requirements of the frequent traveler. Although small and with no frills, the rooms are furnished tastefully. The Garden’s Restaurant serves cuisine typical to Minas Gerais. The Wimbledon also has a convention center and a small pool. www.wimbledon.com.br

BELO HORIZONTE Liberty Palace Hotel

Rua Paraíba 1465, Savassi Tel (031) 2121 0900 Fax (031) 3282 0808 Rooms 94 A well-appointed, modern business hotel located in a tower, the Liberty Palace is one of the most expensive in the Savassi area. Rooms are luxuriously appointed. Facilities include a sauna, 24-hour room service, and broadband internet in all rooms. Close to the best restaurants in the city. www.libertypalace.com.br

CONGONHAS Colonial Hotel

Praça da Basílica 76 Tel (031) 3731 1834 Rooms 8 Next to the Basílica do Nosso Senhor Bom Jesus de Matosinhos (see pp130–31), a long way from the main tourist sights, this well-maintained hotel offers the best accommodation in town, with spacious rooms. While somewhat dated, it retains its past glory in its huge hallways and high ceilings. www.hotelcolonialcongonhas.com.br

DIAMANTINA Pousada Montanhas de Minas

Rua da Romana 264 Tel (038) 3531 3240 Rooms 13 Housed in a mock-colonial building near the town center, this attractive pousada is a perfect choice for travelers on a budget. Minimalist rooms, which overlook a pool and the surrounding mountains, promise pretty views. Great value for money. www.grupomontanhasdeminas.com.br

DIAMANTINA Jardim da Serra

Estrada do Cruzeiro Luminoso 3 km, 39100 000 Tel (038) 3531 2987 Rooms 20 A converted fazenda set in the mountains overlooking Diamantina, the Jardim de Serra has wonderful views of the town from many of the rooms and the bar. The hotel has a spring-water swimming pool. The town’s best restaurants are only 2 miles (3 km) away. www.jardimdaserra.com.br

DIAMANTINA Relíquias do Tempo

Rua Macau de Baixo 104, Centro Tel (038) 3531 1627 Rooms 18 A beautifully restored 19th-century colonial house, the Relíquias do Tempo is located in the center of town. The interior features period furnishings and antiques, and a range of simple, but elegant, wooden-floored suites are offered. Excellent breakfast is included in the tariff. pousadareliquiasdotempo.com.br

DIAMANTINA Tijuco

Rua Macau do Meio 211 Tel (038) 3531 1022 Rooms 27 This hotel is housed in a building designed by renowned architect Oscar Niemeyer (see p295) at the start of his career, before he started work on Brasília. Beautifully restored to its original early 1960s look, the Tijuco has the best rooms on its second floor. www.hoteltijuco.com.br Key to Price Guide see p366 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

MARIANA Pousada Solar dos Corrêa

Rua Josafá Macedo 70 Tel (031) 3557 2080 Rooms 14 A simple pousada in a converted colonial townhouse, this property is situated very close to the Igreja da Sé. The decor is minimalistic, though full of character. While every room is individually decorated, those on the first floor are preferred for their splendid views. www.pousadasolardoscorrea.com.br

OURO PRETO Estalagem das Minas Gerais

Rodovia dos Inconfidentes Km 87, 35400 000 Tel (031) 3551 2122 Fax (031) 3551 2709 Rooms 142 A vast mock-colonial converted fazenda with a range of rooms, from plain standard apartments to more luxurious chalets. Facilities include horse-riding, tennis courts, a play area for children, a relaxing swimming pool, sauna, and live music at weekends. www.sescmg.com.br/hospedagem/ouropreto.asp

OURO PRETO Pousada do Mondego

Largo de Coimbra 38 Tel (031) 3551 2040 Fax (031) 3351 3094 Rooms 24 The best rooms in this converted mid-18th-century colonial house have views out over the adjacent Igreja de São Francisco de Assis (see p128). The hotel is beautifully done up with period furniture. All rooms are well-maintained; some of them come with a balcony. www.mondego.com.br

OURO PRETO Pousada Solar da Opera

Rua Conde de Bobadela 75 Tel (031) 3551 6844 Rooms 15 The hotel offers well-appointed and tastefully decorated modern rooms in a converted Portuguese town house in the historical town center. The best have balconies with views out over the street, though it can be noisy in high season. There is a good restaurant, bar, and café. www.hotelsolardaopera.com.br

OURO PRETO Solar Nossa Senhora do Rosário

Rua Getúlio Vargas 270 Tel (031) 3551 5200 Fax (031) 3551 4288 Rooms 46 Spacious apartments with polished wooden floors housed in a 19th-century colonial mansion in the heart of the historic town. The decor is sumptuous, with spacious communal areas. The pool and other facilities are in a separate modern annexe. The hotel restaurant is one of the best in the city. www.hotelsolardorosario.com.br

SÃO JOÃO DEL REI Pousada Beco do Bispo

Rua Beco do Bispo 93 Tel (032) 3371 8844 Rooms 13 A newly-opened hotel, close to the Igreja de São Francisco de Assis, the Beco do Bispo offers bright, colorful rooms and helpful English-speaking staff. All rooms are equipped with a minibar and TV. The living room comes with a fireplace. www.becodobispo.com.br

PARQUE NACIONAL DA SERRA DA CANASTRA Fazenda Mirante

2 miles (3 km) from the park entrance, São Roque de Minas Tel (037) 9983 6565 Rooms 10 Very simple, spartan rooms are available in this rustic modern building with a view out over the lush cerrado. Some can accommodate as many as eight people. Breakfast and afternoon tea are included in the tariff. This is an ideal base for exploring the national park. www.hotelfazendamirante.com.br

PARQUE NACIONAL DA SERRA DO CIPÓ Cipó Veraneio

Rodovia MG-10 Km 95, Jaboticatubas, Serra do Cipó, 33400 Tel (031) 3718 7000 Rooms 32 This family-run pousada, located on the banks of a mountain river, offers a range of rooms, from simple en suite rooms to more luxurious family rooms. Children under the age of four years can stay for free. All meals are included in the tariff, and there are good restaurants and a café. www.cipoveraneiohotel.com.br

PARQUE NACIONAL DA SERRA DO CIPÓ Fazenda Toucan Cipo

Tel (021) 2512 3895 Rooms 5 Set in the heart of the national park, this super-luxurious eco-hotel and private home promises superb wildlife viewing and bird-watching. Naturalists can study the flora and fauna within a broad radius of the estate. All food and drinks, including alcohol, are included in the price, as are guided trips. www.toucancipo.com

TIRADENTES Pousada Três Portas

Rua Direita 280A Tel (032) 3355 1444 Rooms 9 Done up with hard wood and furnished with grandfather clocks, antiques, and four-poster beds, this attractive little colonial pousada in the historic center was voted among the top six hotels in Brazil by Viagem e Turismo, the country’s leading travel magazine. www.pousadatresportas.com.br

TIRADENTES Solar da Ponte

Praça das Mercês Tel (032) 3355 1255 Rooms 18 This beautiful restored colonial mansion is set in its own walled garden in the heart of the colonial town. Rooms are furnished with antiques and four-poster double beds. Its afternoon tea, made by the English owner (and included in the price), is legendary throughout Minas. www.solardaponte.com.br

TIRADENTES Hotel Pequena Tiradentes

Av Governador Israel Pinheiro 670 Tel (032) 3355 1262 Rooms 62 The newly-opened mock-colonial Pequena Tiradentes blends old-world charm with ultra-modern facilities. Though on the outskirts of town, the hotel is just a ten-minute ride from the historic center. Rooms are spacious and wellappointed and the breakfasts generous. www.pequenatiradentes.com.br

SÃO PAULO CITY

CENTRO Othon Classic Rua Líbero Badaró 190 Tel (011) 2106 0202 Rooms 150

Map 1 C3

The only reasonably well-kept hotel in the city center, the Othon Palace is housed in one of the city’s oldest skyscrapers, close to the Teatro Municipal and Anhangabaú. However, visitors to this area need to be careful after dark. Parking is limited. There are good off-season discounts on offer. http://othonhotels.com

JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA Pousada Dona Zilah

Alameda Franca 1633, Jardins, 01422 001 Tel (011) 3062 1444 Fax (011) 3061 5413 Rooms 18

Map 4 D2

A pleasant B&B, the Dona Zilah is located in a small converted town house in the heart of fashionable Jardins. It offers one of the most attractive deals in this expensive area, and is close to the best restaurants, bars, cinemas, shops, and art galleries. Parking is limited. www.zilah.com

Alameda Campinas 150, Jardins, 01404 900 Tel (011) 3145 8000 Fax (011) 3145 8001 Rooms 416

Map 4 F3

JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA Maksoud Plaza

Just off Avenida Paulista, the Maksoud Plaza is an old-fashioned but well-kept business hotel with superb views out over the city from the upper floors. A limousine service is available on request to and from Congonhas Domestic Airport and Guarulhos International Airport. www.maksoud.com.br

JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA Emiliano Rua Oscar Freire 384, Jardins Tel (011) 3068 4399 Fax (011) 3068 4399 Rooms 57

Map 4 D3

One of the city’s finest designer hotels, the Emiliano mixes opulence with refinement. Suites have thick carpets, leather sofas, and luxurious beds covered in rich Egyptian cotton sheets. Fittings are by famous designers, including the Campana brothers, Fernando and Humberto. Valet parking is available. www.emiliano.com.br

JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA Fasano

Rua Vittorio Fasano 88, Jardins, 01414 020 Tel (011) 3896 4000 Fax (011) 3896 4155 Rooms 64

Map 4 D3

The most understated and sophisticated of the city’s luxury hotels, the Fasano feels like a gentleman’s club for the new millennium. It boasts one of Brazil’s finest Italian restaurants, Fasano (see p399). All rooms come as suites. Valet parking is available. www.fasano.com.br

JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA Hotel Unique

Av Brigadeiro Luís Antonio 4700, Jardins Tel (011) 3055 4700 Fax (011) 3055 4700 Rooms 95

Map 4 E5

The most self-consciously designer hotel in Brazil, the Unique is a giant half-orange on stilts, with 7-ft (2-m) wide porthole windows and a splendid cavernous lobby (see p146). The tail-end suites have floors that curve up to meet the ceiling. Sky, the rooftop bar with good views, serves wonderful cocktails. www.hotelunique.com

JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA L’Hotel

Alameda Campinas 266, Bela Vista Tel (011) 2183 0500 Fax (011) 2183 0505 Rooms 79

Map 4 F3

Mock-New York meets mock-European in this hotel with sober antique and classical furniture. A quiet atmosphere prevails throughout and the service is impressive. All rooms are tastefully decorated, and there is a respectable on-site restaurant. Valet parking is available. Convenient for Avenida Paulista. www.lhotel.com.br

JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA Renaissance

Rua Alameda Santos 2233, Jardins Tel (011) 3069 2233 Fax (011) 3064 3344 Rooms 452

Map 4 E2

A popular business hotel near Jardins and Avenida Paulista with conference rooms and excellent communication and business facilities. What the rooms lack in character they make up for with comfort. It may be a better idea to dine in one of the nearby places than in the on-site restaurant. www.hoteis.marriott.com.br/renaissance-sao-paulo

SERRA DA CANTAREIRA Unique Garden

Estrada Laramara 3500, Mairiporã Tel (011) 4486 8700 Rooms 25 One of South America’s great spa hotels, this place has beautifully designed individual bungalows set in a rainforest in the Serra da Cantareira mountains, a 40-minute ride from the city center. Superb facilities, treatments, and food are on offer. Children are not allowed. www.uniquegarden.com.br

THE NEW CENTER Grand Hyatt

Av das Nacoes Unidas 13301, Brooklin Tel (011) 6838 1234 Fax (011) 6838 1235 Rooms 470 This is the best business hotel in the city and convenient for the new business center around Avenida Luis Carlos Berrini. The top-floor suites are carefully designed and have magnificent views, and the excellent spa, restaurants, and bars attract fashionable São Paulo residents. http://saopaulo.grand.hyatt.com

THE NEW CENTER Hilton São Paulo Morumbi

Av das Nacoes Unidas 12901, Brooklin Tel (011) 6845 0000 Fax (011) 6845 0001 Rooms 485 The business-like modern apartments at this upscale hotel come stylishly equipped with a separate living room, kitchenette, en suite bathroom, and executive lounge access. Continental breakfast and refreshments are complimentary. On-site dining options include the Canvas Bar & Grill, Sol & Sombra, and Caffè Cino. www.hilton.com Key to Price Guide see p366 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

SÃO PAULO STATE

CANANÉIA Pousada Caropá

Praça Martim Afonso de Sousa 13, Centro Tel (013) 3851 1601 Rooms 14 Very minimally-appointed, clean rooms are available at this pousada near the waterfront in a restored 19th-century Portuguese town house. The friendly staff can help organize boat trips to the Ilha do Cardoso, an ecological preserve with fine beaches. The pousada is one of the best-value options in the area.

IGUAPE Pousada dos Martins

Rua Antonio Ferreira Aguiar 8, Centro Tel (013) 3841 4260 Rooms 15 This well-maintained family-run pousada offers motel-like rooms in the heart of Iguape, which is also an ideal base for exploring the Estação Ecológico Juréia-Itatins. The welcoming staff will happily answer questions about visiting this state park, which showcases the flora and fauna of the Atlantic rainforest.

IGUAPE Solar Colonial

Praça da Basilica 30 Tel (013) 3841 1591 Rooms 10 Small, simple, but very well-kept rooms are available in this affordable B&B housed in a refurbished Portuguese colonial building, right in the heart of town. The best rooms, which look out on to the main square, are the most preferred. Generous breakfasts and warm service make the stay memorable.

ILHABELA Canto da Praia Ilhabela

Av Força Expedicionária Brasileira 793, Santa Tereza Tel (012) 3896 1194 Fax (012) 3896 6415 Rooms 4 Sitting right above a narrow beach, with its own beautiful terrace, garden, and pool, this tiny pousada is a favorite location for Brazilian fashion shoots. All four apartments are embellished with rustic chic and there is plenty of shade from the palms and covered sundecks. www.cantodapraiailhabela.com.br

ILHABELA Maison Joly

Rua Antônio Lisboa Alves 278, Centro Tel (012) 3896 1201 Rooms 10 A tastefully designed boutique hotel, the tiny Maison Joly is dotted with carefully chosen stylish arts and crafts. Each room comes with a private terrace providing a splendid view out over Ilhabela, the Atlantic, and the Serra do Mar mountains. Book well ahead for weekend stays. Children not allowed. www.maisonjoly.com.br

MARESIAS Brig Maresias

Av Francisco Loup 1158, 11620 000 Tel (012) 3865 6527 Rooms 22 At this hotel visitors can choose from a range of chalets and rooms, from spartan doubles to well-furnished bungalows decorated in mock-Oriental style. Facilities include a 24-hour reception and enormous complimentary breakfasts. The beach is just a stroll away. www.brig.com.br

MARESIAS Maresias Beach Hotel

Av Francisco Loup 1109, São Sebastião, 11620 000 Tel (012) 3891 7500 Fax (012) 3891 7509 Rooms 93 Located on one of the most beautiful beaches in the area, this sprawling family hotel provides comfortable rooms. Other amenities include games for children, babysitting, tennis courts, and an enormous pool. Special low-season deals are on offer. The hotel can be very noisy in high season. www.maresiashotel.com.br

SANTOS Mendes Plaza

Av Floriano Peixato 42 Tel (013) 3289 4243 Fax (013) 3284 8253 Rooms 104 A huge beachfront business hotel built in the 1980s, the Mendes Plaza is a great accommodation choice, with air conditioning and TV in every room. Other features include sauna, massage, and sport facilities. The staff are efficient and there is a decent on-site restaurant. www.grupomendes.com.br

SANTOS Parque Balneário

Av Ana Costa 555, Praia do Gonzaga Tel (013) 3289 5700 Fax (013) 3284 0475 Rooms 119 A fully refurbished 1970s beachfront luxury hotel, the Balneário has a grand marble lobby. The rooms have good ocean views, especially from the upper floors. The property also has a rooftop pool convention center and decent business facilities. Beach service is offered. www.parquebalneario.com.br

UBATUBA Refúgio do Corsário

Trilha do Corsário 10, Praia da Fortaleza Tel (012) 3848 9229 Rooms 21 A wonderful setting on the tip of a peninsula in the heart of the forest sets this hotel apart. Modest, though comfortable, chalets are set on a lawn in front of a sculpted pool and a small beach. Simpler apartment rooms are also on offer. Many fine beaches are located nearby. www.corsario.com.br

UBATUBA Pousada Piçinguaba

Rua G 130, Vila Piçinguaba Tel (012) 3836 9105 Fax (012) 3836 9103 Rooms 10 A luxury boutique hotel located in a converted convent, the Piçinguaba is situated in a small fishing village halfway between Ubatuba and Paraty. Rooms are simple, though very tastefully decorated. Wonderful views, kayaking, boat rides, and forest walks are on offer. Parking is limited. www.picinguaba.com

BAHIA COSTA DO SAUÍPE Mariott Resort & Spa

Rodovia BA-99 Km 76 s/n, Costa do Sauípe, 48280 000 Tel (071) 2104 7000 Fax (071) 2104 7001 Rooms 256 A grand sprawling resort built in tropical colonial style, this Marriott property features large rooms with king-size beds and balconies. The extensive leisure areas include three pools, a pair of jacuzzis, saunas, and spa treatments. The best part of the hotel, however, is its location right on the beach. www.marriott.com.br

COSTA DO SAUÍPE Sofitel Suites Costa do Sauípe

Costa do Sauípe s/n, 48280 000 Tel (071) 2104 8000 Fax (071) 2104 8001 Rooms 198 Built in the style of an old cocoa plantation, this resort has an intimate feel. All suites have verandas and come with a spacious sitting area with sofa-bed, separated from the master bedroom. The pool area is magnificent and leisure activities include golfing, boating, horse-riding, and cultural presentations. www.costadosauipe.com.br

ILHA DE BOIPEBA Pousada Santa Clara

Boca da Barra s/n, 45410 000 Tel (075) 3653 6085 Rooms 9 The pleasant Santa Clara provides a tropical hideaway just steps from the beach. Each room is unique in size and style and is colorfully decorated. The pousada also has a cozy sitting room and reading lounge. The Santa Clara restaurant is Boipeba’s best dining option. Complimentary gourmet breakfast. www.santaclaraboipeba.com

ILHA DE BOIPEBA Pousada Vila Sereia

Boca da Barra s/n, 45410 000 Tel (075) 3653 6045 Fax (075) 3653 6045 Rooms 4 The Vila Sereia has four lovely bungalows with wide front decks and hammocks, facing the gorgeous, largely empty beach of Ilha de Boipeba. A satisfying Bahian-style breakfast is served on the balcony that comes with every bungalow. www.amabo.org.br/en/vilasereia.html

ILHÉUS Ilhéus Tropical

Rodovia Ilhéus-Olivença Km 2, Jardim Atlântico, 45655 170 Tel (073) 3632 7214 Fax (073) 3632 7194 Rooms 28 A small walk from Praia do Sul, this new pousada is located 2 miles (3 km) from the historic center. The no-frills apartments are clean and comfortable. The leisure area includes a games room and playground for children. There is a decent restaurant on the grounds. www.ilheustropical.com.br

ILHÉUS Pousada Praia Bela

Rodovia Ilhéus-Olivença Km 2.5, Praia dos Milionários, 45655 170 Tel (073) 3632 7022 Rooms 16 Set on the Milionários beach, this small pousada offers pleasant accommodation. Rooms are decorated in bright colors and have verandas facing either the ocean or the lush garden. The leisure area includes a children’s pool, beach soccer, and volleyball court. www.praiabela.com.br

ITACARÉ Itacaré Ecoresort

Rodovia BA-001 Km 64, 45530 000 Tel (073) 3251 3133 Fax (073) 3251 3133 Rooms 25 The resort is located off a small beach and set amid beautiful Atlantic rainforest. The apartments are spacious and elegantly furnished in light colors. Breakfast and dinner are included in the tariff. A complimentary shuttle service connects the beach to the village of Itacaré. www.ier.com.br

ITACARÉ Txai Resort

Rodovia Ilhéus Itacaré km 48, 45530 000 Tel (073) 2101 5000 Fax (073) 2101 5000 Rooms 26 This full-service resort features spacious airy bungalows spread out through a 247-acre (100-ha) coconut plantation on the edge of the Itacarézinho beach. Numerous activities are offered, including tennis, horse-riding, beach safaris, hiking, canoeing, and a spa for those looking for relaxation. http://www.txairesort.com.br/

LENÇOIS Canto das Aguas

Av Sr Dos Passos 1, 46960 000 Tel (075) 3334 1154 Fax (075) 3334 1154 Rooms 44 Set close to the main square, this pleasant hotel looks over to the Rio Lençois. The best rooms are those in the new wing. Bright and spacious, these feature a queen-size bed and fold-out sofa, a sitting area, and veranda. The hotel restaurant is striking with a colorful interior. www.lencois.com.br

LENÇOIS Estalagem Alcino

Rua Tomba Surrão 139, 46960 000 Tel (075) 3334 1171 Fax (075) 3334 1171 Rooms 7 This cozy pousada is housed in a replica of a 19th-century colonial house. A scrumptious breakfast is served in the tranquil, well-kept garden. The rooms are intimate and decorated with antique furniture. The only downside is that the bathrooms are shared. The hotel also boasts a good collection of books for browsing.

MORRO DE SÃO PAULO Pousada Puerto Beach

Quarta Praia, 45400 000 Tel (075) 3652 2136 Rooms 16 Located far from the village on a largely empty beach, the Puerto Beach hotel features small self-contained chalets and comfortable rooms in a garden-like setting. The hotel has an outdoor leisure area with a jacuzzi, two small pools, a bar, and numerous hammocks and deck chairs. www.hotelpuertobeach.com.br Key to Price Guide see p366 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

MORRO DE SÃO PAULO Vila Guaiamú

Terceira Praia s/n, 45400 000 Tel (075) 3652 1035 Fax (075) 3483 1073 Rooms 22 Set on a quiet beach, the Vila Guaiamú consists of 22 cabins scattered among a lush garden. Simply furnished with a double and single bed, each cabin comes with a private bathroom and veranda with hammock.The hustle and bustle of the main village is only a 20-minute stroll away. www.vilaguaiamu.com.br

PORTO SEGURO Porto Seguro Praia Hotel

Av Beira Mar s/n, 45810 000 Tel (073) 3288 9393 Fax (073) 3679 2069 Rooms 149 Located on the pretty beach of Praia Curuípe, this full-service resort offers fine dining, tennis, two pools, and an outstanding view of the ocean. Rooms are spacious, comfortable, and modern. Besides a good on-site restaurant, there is the popular Nau Cabral Bar. Ideal for business as well as leisure travelers. www.psph.com.br

PORTO SEGURO Xurupita Resort

Caixa Postal 189, 45810 000 Tel (073) 2105 9500 Fax (073) 2105 9501 Rooms 16 This resort is perfect for families traveling with children. Each apartment has two rooms and sleeps four people comfortably. A small kitchen is equipped with a stove, fridge, and microwave. The resort has a large leisure area. The main swimming pool includes a hydro-massage facility and a bar. www.xurupita.com

PRAIA DO FORTE Pousada Porto da Lua

Praia do Forte s/n, 48280 000 Tel (071) 3676 1372 Fax (071) 3676 1446 Rooms 26 A short stroll from the Projeto Tamar (see p207), the Porto da Lua is set right on the beach. Most of the apartments look out over the ocean. Only the lower-floor rooms have air conditioning, as the upper floor gets a steady sea breeze. The hotel’s tropical architecture is by well-known architect Wilson Reis Netto. www.portodalua.tur.br

PRAIA DO FORTE Praia do Forte Eco Resort

Av Do Farol s/n, 48280 000 Tel (071) 3676 4000 Fax (071) 3673 1112 Rooms 250 This sprawling resort is set in gorgeous gardens near the beach. All apartments are spacious and well-appointed. The resort offers a large number of sports and recreation activities, including snorkeling, windsurfing, kayaking, and nature walks. Breakfast and dinner are included in the rate. www.ecoresort.com.br

SALVADOR Ibis Rio Vermelho

Rua Fonte do Boi 215, Rio Vermelho, 41940 360 Tel (071) 3330 8200 Fax (071) 3330 8201 Rooms 252 The no-frills Ibis brand specializes in tidy, comfortable rooms. Prices are low because the hotel does not offer services such as dry-cleaning, buffet breakfast, or valet parking. For the most memorable Ibis experience, request an ocean-view room when reserving. www.accorhotels.com.br

SALVADOR Pousada Beija-Flor

Rua D. de Santo Antônio 259, Centro Histórico, 40301 280 Tel (071) 3241 7085 Fax (071) 3241 2472 Rooms 7 The rooms in this unpretentious pousada are on the small side, although most come with a veranda and offer fabulous views of the Salvador harbor and the Baía dos Todos os Santos (Bay of All Saints). Breakfast is served on the bright patio. A short stroll from the Pelourinho (see pp186–7). www.beijaflorpousada.com.br

SALVADOR Pousada Redfish

Ladeira do Boqueirão 1, 40301 280 Tel (071) 3243 8473 Fax (071) 3326 2544 Rooms 8 A crumbling heritage building on the edge of the historic center, the Redfish was bought and renovated by English owners into a comfortable inn. Rooms are simple but spacious, high-ceilinged, and flooded with light. The ground floor of the pousada contains a gallery of local art. www.pousadaredfish.com.br

SALVADOR Monte Pascoal Praia

Av Oceânica 591, Barra, 40170 010 Tel (071) 2103 4000 Fax (071) 3245 4436 Rooms 83 This excellent-value hotel provides recently renovated rooms with comfortable king-size beds or two single beds. Every room features a balcony with either a full or partial view of the ocean. Close to Salvador’s best restaurants, bars, museums, and shopping areas. www.montepascoal.com.br

SALVADOR Pousada do Boqueirão

Rua D. de Santo Antônio 48, Centro Histórico, 40301 280 Tel (071) 3241 2262 Fax (071) 3241 8064 Rooms 15 A pretty pousada in the historic center of Salvador with high-ceilinged rooms that have period furnishings, but lack modern amenities such as TV or Internet. The best room is a split-level apartment with a separate sitting area and a large private terrace. The restaurant faces the sea. www.pousadaboqueirao.com.br

SALVADOR Pousada do Pilar

Rua D. de Santo Antônio 24, Centro Histórico, 40301 280 Tel (071) 3241 2033 Fax (071) 3241 3844 Rooms 12 Set in a heritage building, this pousada has received a complete overhaul to meet modern standards. Rooms are spacious and pleasantly decorated with bright splashes of colour. Seven of the rooms have a veranda and look out over the port and the ocean. Breakfast is served on the rooftop patio. www.pousadadopilar.com

SALVADOR Pestana Bahia

Rua Fonte do Boi 216, Rio Vermelho, 41940 360 Tel (071) 2103 8000 Fax (071) 2103 8066 Rooms 430 Sitting on an outcrop overlooking the ocean at the Rio Vermelho, the Pestana is one of Salvador’s top luxury hotels. The modern rooms are spacious and decorated in a bright, funky style. The hotel’s leisure area includes an outdoor pool and sundeck overlooking the beach and a top-notch fitness center. www.pestanahotels.com.br

TRANCOSO Pousada Mundo Verde

Rua de Telgrafo 43, 4581 8000 Tel (073) 36681 279 Fax (073) 3668 1279 Rooms 11 A small pousada set in a large garden, the Mundo Verde offers a tremendous clifftop view looking out over the nature preserve and beach in the distance. Rooms are in small bungalows, and feature double beds with mosquito canopies, tile floors, and large verandas with hammocks. www.pousadamundoverde.com.br

TRANCOSO Pousada Estrela d’Água

Estrada do Arraial s/n, 4581 0000 Tel (073) 36681 030 Fax (073) 3575 1032 Rooms 27 A beautiful high-end resort on Praia dos Nativos, this pousada has its own beachside pools and jacuzzi. Rooms are large, comfortable, and tastefully decorated. Guests can enjoy a range of activities, including bike rental and massage, as well as access to a nearby seaside golf course. www.estreladagua.com.br

SERGIPE, ALAGOAS & PERNAMBUCO

ARACAJU (Sergipe) Pousada Praia e Mar

Av Santos Dumont 433, Praia de Atalaia, 49035 730 Tel (079) 3243 4520 Rooms 14 This inexpensive B&B is right across the street from Praia de Atalaia. The rooms are plain but very clean, and all come with a private bathroom. The reception staff are available 24 hours a day. The on-site restaurant serves authentic Northeastern cuisine. www.pousadapraiaemar.com.br

ARACAJU (Sergipe) Quality

Av Delmiro Gouveia 100, Corao do Meio, 49035 810 Tel (079) 3234 7000 Fax (079) 3234 7001 Rooms 109 Reputedly Aracaju’s best hotel, Quality offers very comfortable rooms with queen-size beds, a desk, a large TV, and wireless Internet. Women travelers can request a room on the women-only floor. The only drawback is the hotel’s location far from the beach next to a mall. www.atlanticahotels.com.br

FERNANDO DE NORONHA (Pernambuco) Pousada do Vale

Rua Pescador Sérgio Lino 18, Jardim Elizabeth, 53990 000 Tel (081) 3619 1293 Fax (081) 3619 1881 Rooms 5 Within walking distance of the village, this pousada is set amid striking natural beauty. One of the nicer rooms is the Marlim, which has a great balcony. The cheerful decor features hand-crafted furniture. Although there is no swimming pool, the beach is only a five-minute walk away. www.pousadadovale.com

FERNANDO DE NORONHA (Pernambuco) Solar dos Ventos

Estrada do Sueste s/n, 5399 0000 Tel (081) 36191 347 Fax (081) 3619 1253 Rooms 8 Overlooking the Baía do Sueste, the self-contained bungalows at the Solar dos Ventos feature a double and two single beds, a sitting area, and a balcony with a hammock. The only drawback is the hotel’s location at the far end of the island’s restaurants and services. www.solardosventos.com.br

FERNANDO DE NORONHA (Pernambuco) Pousada Maravilha

BR-363 s/n, Sueste, 5399 0000 Tel (081) 36190 028 Fax (081) 3619 0162 Rooms 8 Accommodation is either in independent bungalows or in the main building. The bungalows feature a spacious veranda with hammock, a king-size four-poster bed, and a huge bathroom. Rooms in the main building are smaller and less luxurious, but also feature king-size beds and good bathrooms. www.pousadamaravilha.com.br

FERNANDO DE NORONHA (Pernambuco) Pousada Zé Maria Rua Nice Cordeiro 1, 5399 0000 Tel (081) 36191 258 Fax (081) 3619 1258 Rooms 20

A luxury pousada on a hilltop with a panoramic view of the islands, Zé Maria offers newly-built self-contained bungalows, with queen-size beds, wide decks, and solar showers. Many bungalows feature private jacuzzis. There is a relaxing pool, gorgeous old mango trees, and an on-site spa. www.pousadazemaria.com.br

MACEIÓ (Alagoas) Ibis Maceió Pajuçara

Av Dr. Antônio Gouveia 277, Praia de Pajuçara, 57030 170 Tel (082) 2121 6699 Fax (082) 3327 6711 Rooms 99 One of the best budget options in Maceió. The rooms in this modern Ibis hotel feature comfortable beds, desks with laptop plug, and spotless bathrooms. All rooms, except for four on the first floor, boast ocean views. The hotel has a decent restaurant, A Boa Mesa, and a good coffee shop, Menu Express. www.accorhotels.com.br

MACEIÓ (Alagoas) Jatiúca Flat & Resort

Lagoa da Anta 220, 57035 180 Tel (082) 2122 5757 (Flat), 2122 2000 (Resort) Fax (082) 2122 2020 Rooms 179 The Jatiúca Flat and Resort are set side by side on a lagoon right on Praia da Jatiúca. Both offer oustanding accommodation within walking distance of all the seaside entertainment and restaurants. There is a good selection of on-site restaurants and bars. Parking available in resort only. www.hoteljatiuca.com.br

OLINDA (Pernambuco) Pousada dos Quatro Cantos

Rua Prudente de Morais 441, 53020 170 Tel (081) 3429 0220 Fax (081) 3429 1845 Rooms 17 Set in the heart of Olinda, this pousada is housed in a beautiful heritage building. The recently refurbished deluxe rooms look plush and feature a jetted tub. One of the nicest rooms is the Veranda Suite, a spacious chamber overlooking the garden. All of Olinda’s sights are an easy stroll away. www.pousada4cantos.com.br Key to Price Guide see p366 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

OLINDA (Pernambuco) Hotel 7 Colinas

Ladeira de São Francisco 307, 53120 070 Tel (081) 3493 7766 Fax (081) 3493 7766 Rooms 39 Surrounded by resplendent greenery, this hotel has the best leisure area in Olinda, with a large outdoor pool and play area. Rooms face the pretty garden and are decorated in rustic style, with tile floors and dark wood furniture. There is a small on-site museum and an English-speaking staff. www.hotel7colinas.com.br

OLINDA (Pernambuco) Pousada do Amparo

Rua do Amparo 199, 53020 170 Tel (081) 3439 1749 Fax (081) 3429 6889 Rooms 11 Consisting of two renovated 18th-century heritage houses, the Amparo is one of Olinda’s most beautiful pousadas. Rooms vary widely in size and configuration. Most have balconies, hammocks, and period furnishings. The views of Olinda and Recife from the leafy green common areas are spectacular. www.pousadadoamparo.com.br

PORTO DE GALINHAS (Pernambuco) Pousada Beira Mar

Av Beira Mar 12, 55590 000 Tel (081) 3552 1052 Fax (081) 3552 1052 Rooms 12 This pousada is right on the beach, in the heart of the village. The best rooms are on the upper floor and come with a large private terrace. The eight standard-size rooms lack a terrace, but are still quite comfortable. Activities include swimming, snorkeling, diving, body-surfing, riding, and volleyball. www.pousadabeiramar.com.br

PORTO DE GALINHAS (Pernambuco) Tabajuba

Praia Pontal do Cupe s/n, 55590 000 Tel (081) 3552 1049 Fax (081) 3552 1006 Rooms 24 Just a few steps from Praia Pontal do Cupe, one of the finest beaches in Northeastern Brazil, the Tabajuba has cheerful, brightly-colored rooms with queen-size beds and balconies. The pousada also features a pool, leisure area, and an on-site restaurant. Children under 12 are not permitted. www.tabajuba.com

PORTO DE GALINHAS (Pernambuco) Tabapitanga

Praia Pontal do Cupe, 55590 000 Tel (081) 3552 1049 Fax (081) 3552 1037 Rooms 43 A small inn, the Tabapatinga offers luxurious accommodation on the beach just 3 miles (5 km) from the village. The modern rooms are spacious, with bright, elegant decor and king-size beds and large flat-screen TVs. All of them come with an atmospheric veranda or a deck. www.tabapitanga.com.br

RECIFE (Pernambuco) Beach Class Suites

Av Boa Viagem 1906, Boa Viagem, 51011 000 Tel (081) 2121 2626 Fax (081) 2121 2600 Rooms 140 Considered to be the best accommodation option in Boa Viagem, this brand-new hotel features generouslyproportioned rooms with modern furniture. Some rooms come equipped with a small kitchen. The hotel also offers a women-only floor, ideal for women traveling alone. www.atlanticahotels.com.br

RECIFE (Pernambuco) Hotel Jangadeiro

Av Boa Viagem 3114, Boa Viagem, 51020 001 Tel (081) 3465 3544 Rooms 93 The Jangadeiro reputedly offers the best value in Boa Viagem. All rooms have been recently renovated and are bright and spotless. Reserve ahead as this hotel fills up quickly. The ocean-view rooms are worth the extra money, as they offer fabulous views of the beach along Boa Viagem. www.jangadeirohotel.com.br

RECIFE (Pernambuco) Recife Palace

Av Boa Viagem 4070, Boa Viagem, 51021 000 Tel (081) 3464 2500 Fax (081) 3465 2525 Rooms 295 The five-star Recife Palace is just across from the Boa Viagem beach. All rooms, even the standard ones, are huge and decorated with modern blond-wood furniture and soft colors, while the bathrooms boast bathtubs. The superior rooms offer partial views of the ocean. Deluxe rooms have full views. www.lucsimhoteis.com.br

PARAÍBA, RIO GRANDE DO NORTE & CEARÁ CAMPINA GRANDE (Paraíba) Hotel Village Campina Grande

Rua Otacílio Nepomuceno 1285, 58104 575 Tel (083) 3310 8000 Fax (083) 3310 8002 Rooms 85 Campina Grande’s top hotel mainly attracts a business crowd. Rooms are elegantly appointed and feature a work desk and Internet access. Hotel facilities include a sauna, games room, business center, and concierge service. The on-site restaurant, Le Chateau, serves continental cuisine. www.hoteisvillage.com

CANOA QUEBRADA (Ceará) Pousada Aruanã

Rua dos Bugueiros, Praia de Canoa Quebrada s/n, 62800 000 Tel (084) 3421 7154 Rooms 12 Inaugurated in 2005, this small pousada provides one of the most affordable accommodation options in town. The rooms are bright and spotless, and nicely furnished. Overlooking Praia de Canoa Quebrada, the hotel has breathtaking sea views. There is an impressive swimming pool with a swimmer’s bar. www.pousadaaruana.com.br

CANOA QUEBRADA (Ceará) Pousada Chataletta

Praia de Canoa Quebrada s/n, 62800 000 Tel (084) 3421 7200 Fax (084) 3421 7169 Rooms 18 In an attractive location, just a five-minute stroll from the beach, this simple pousada offers chalets arranged around a pool. All chalets come with rooms that can sleep up to six people and have an attached terrace and hammocks facing the pool. The on-site bar serves memorable caipirinhas. www.pousadachataletta.com.br

CANOA QUEBRADA (Ceará) Pousada Long Beach

Rua Long Beach s/n, 62800 000 Tel (084) 3421 7404 Fax (084) 3421 7407 Rooms 42 The highlight of this pousada is its large oval swimming pool, which offers a panoramic view of Canoa Quebrada. The 20 self-contained chalets feature king-size beds and verandas with hammocks. Some of the chalets have spectacular views. Rooms, too, feature king-size beds, but lack the views. www.longbeachvillage.com.br

FORTALEZA (Ceará) Ibis Fortaleza

Rua A. Barbosa de Lima 660, Iracema, 60060 370 Tel (085) 3219 2121 Fax (085) 3219 0000 Rooms 171 According to the Ibis standard, this flagship hotel offers clean, quality accommodation at bargain rates. Rooms are sizable and inviting with sophisticated decor. The hotel is within easy walking distance of the beach and the Iracema nightlife area. The Ibis has a good restaurant and bar. www.accorhotels.com.br

FORTALEZA (Ceará) Othon Palace Fortaleza

Av Beira Mar 3470, Meireles, 60165 121 Tel (021) 2016 0200 Fax (085) 3466 5501 Rooms 115 This elegant modern hotel has one of the best beachfront locations between Meireles and Mucuripe. Decorated in cheerful yellow and blue, the rooms are furnished with good quality beds and linen. The spacious bathrooms are tastefully done in marble. The hotel is close to Fortaleza’s stylish bars and nightlife. www.othon.com.br

FORTALEZA (Ceará) Hotel Luzeiros

Av Beira Mar 2600, Meireles, 62800 000 Tel (085) 4006 8585 Fax (085) 4006 8587 Rooms 202 One of Fortaleza’s best hotels, the Luzeiros has the look and feel of a boutique hotel. The rooms are beautifully appointed in elegant gold tones with dark wood furniture. All rooms have balconies and even the standard rooms offer a partial ocean view. A fully-equipped convention center and four meeting rooms. www.luzeiros.com.br

GENIPABU (Rio Grande do Norte) Pousada Villa do Sol

Enseada do Genipabu Km 5, 59575 000 Tel (084) 3225 2132 Fax (084) 3225 2037 Rooms 20 Located 2 miles (3 km) north of town, this pousada offers 20 affordable, yet extremely attractive, chalets. Five of the chalets come with stunning views of the river. There is a decent pool and the service is pleasant. The pousada’s friendly American owner is a good source of local information. www.villadosol.com.br

JERICOACOARA (Ceará) Pousada Recanto do Barão

Rua do Forró 433, 62598 000 Tel (088) 3669 2149 Rooms 20 A great location, right in the heart of the village, adds to the appeal of this affordable pousada. Rooms come either with a double or single bed, or two or three twin beds. The apartments in the back are quieter. A Continental breakfast is included in the rate, and there is an impressive pool area with bar service. www.recantodobarao.com

JERICOACOARA (Ceará) Mosquito Blue

Rua do Forró, 62598 000 Tel (088) 3669 2027 Fax (088) 3669 2027 Rooms 44 One of Jericoacoara’s finest hotels, Mosquito Blue has the feel of a sprawling Mediterranean villa. The apartments look out over the lush gardens or towards the ocean. The rooms are elegantly decorated with pretty linen and curtains. The village and the beach are both within easy walking distance. www.mosquitoblue.com.br

JOÃO PESSOA (Paraíba) Tropical Tambaú

Av Alm. Tamandaré 229, Tambaú Tel (083) 2107 1900 Fax (083) 3247 3672 Rooms 175 Standing on the sands of Praia do Tambaú, this unique circular hotel offers an almost resort-like setting. The recently renovated rooms are very pleasant with ample storage space, a breakfast table, and a spacious bathroom. Plush suites, such as Garden and Seaview, are also available. www.tropicalhotel.com.br

NATAL (Rio Grande do Norte) Soleil

Rua Elia Barros 70, Ponta Negra, 59090 140 Tel (084) 3219 5959 Fax (084) 3219 5959 Rooms 31 Just three blocks off the Ponta Negra beach, the Soleil provides affordable accommodation. There is a wide range of suites to choose from. All are equipped with modern facilities that include a kitchenette unit with fridge, hot plate, and utensils, plus a balcony. There is an on-site business center. www.soleilhotel.com.br

NATAL (Rio Grande do Norte) Manary Praia Hotel

Rua Francisco Gurgel 9067, Ponta Negra, 59090 050 Tel (084) 3204 2900 Fax (084) 3204 2908 Rooms 25 This luxurious Spanish hacienda-style B&B is set right on the Ponta Negra beach. The rooms are luxurious and feature king-size beds and a balcony with ocean views. Rooms in the superior category have a romantic ambience, ideal for couples. The sea-facing hotel restaurant serves an outstanding breakfast buffet. www.manary.com.br

NATAL (Rio Grande do Norte) The Ocean Palace

Av Via Costeira Km 11, Praia de Ponta Negra, 59090 001 Tel (084) 3220 4144 Fax (084) 3220 4144 Rooms 343 Located on the seaside Via Costeira, this luxury hotel offers a variety of suites, bungalows, and apartments. It boasts its own beach and a fabulous leisure area that includes a multi-level pool complex, a children’s play room, saunas, a spa, a top-quality weight room, and a tennis and squash court. www.oceanpalace.com.br

PRAIA DE PIPA (Rio Grande do Norte) Mirante de Pipa

Rua do Mirante 1, 59178 000 Tel (084) 3246 2251 Rooms 9 Set on the bluff above Praia da Pipa, this pousada consists of pretty chalets in a wooded area. Ideal for families or small groups, several chalets have two bedrooms and sleep four to six people comfortably. Smaller units are for couples only. The village is only a short stroll away. www.mirantedepipa.com.br Key to Price Guide see p366 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

PRAIA DE PIPA (Rio Grande do Norte) Sombra e Água Fresca

Rua Praia do Amor 1000, 59178 000 Tel (084) 3246 2258 Fax (084) 3246 2376 Rooms 19 Spectacularly located on a clifftop overlooking Praia do Amor, this hotel features comfortable rooms, five of which are suites. The suites all have vaulted wood ceilings, king-size beds, private jacuzzis, and vast picture windows. The rooms either look out over the ocean or offer garden views. www.sombraeagua.com.br

PRAIA DE PIPA (Rio Grande do Norte) Toca da Coruja

Av Baia dos Golfinhos 464 s/n, 59178 000 Tel (084) 3246 2226 Fax (084) 3246 2226 Rooms 15 This exclusive pousada is perfect for a romantic getaway. The deluxe chalets are decorated in rustic-colonial style with super king-size beds and clawfoot bathtubs. Amenities include a pool, sauna, and reading room. The beach is close by. Children under 12 are not allowed. www.tocadacoruja.com.br

TIBAU DO SUL (Rio Grande do Norte) Ponta do Madeiro

Rota do Sol Km 3, 59178 000 Tel (084) 3502 2377 Fax (084) 3243 2243 Rooms 32 While the rooms at this resort are well-kept but basic, the location is simply exceptional. It is set in a large grassy garden on a headland high above Praia do Madeiro, with a private staircase leading down to the sand. The view from the pool is spectacular. The hotel restaurant serves fine regional cuisine. www.pontadomadeiro.com.br

TIBAU DO SUL (Rio Grande do Norte) Marinas Tibau Sul

Av Governador Aluisio Alves 301, 59178 000 Tel (084) 3246 4111 Fax (084) 3221 5548 Rooms 33 A full-service resort with a remarkable beach setting. Accommodation is in self-contained seaside bungalows, with queen-size beds and balconies with hammocks. The resort offers a wide range of activities, including riding, boat and Land Rover excursions, sportfishing, tennis, volleyball, and swimming. www.hotelmarinas.com.br

PIAUÍ & MARANHÃO

BARREIRINHAS (Piauí) Pousada Encantes do Nordeste

Rua Boa Vista s/n, 65590 000 Tel (098) 3349 0288 Rooms 10 Just on the outskirts of town, this charming pousada offers small chalets set on a green hillside that slopes down to the river. The staff can organize excursions to the Delta do Parnaíba and Parque Nacional Lençóis Maranhenses (see p250–51). Tours include pick-up and drop-off at the pousada. www.encantesdonordeste.com.br

PARQUE NACIONAL DE SERRA DA CAPIVARA (Piauí) Serra da Capivara

PI-140 Km 0, Santa Luzia Tel (086) 3582 1760 Fax (086) 3582 1389 Rooms 18 Its proximity to Parque Nacional de Serra da Capivara makes this hotel an excellent choice. Rooms are no-frills with a rustic interior, but equipped with basic modern amenities, including TV and a minibar. The helpful staff can arrange guides and provide information about the national park.

PARQUE NACIONAL DE SETE CIDADES (Piauí) Fazenda Sete Cidades

Access via BR-222 Km 63 Tel (086) 3232 3996 Fax (086) 3276 2222 Rooms 37 Located at the entrance of Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades, this fazenda offers budget accommodation of a reasonable standard. Besides providing amenities such as a decent restaurant and pool, the hotel also offers a regular shuttle into the park for guests, as well as outsiders. www.portopreguicas.com.br

SÃO LUĺS (Maranhão) Pousada Portas da Amazônia

Rua do Giz 129, Praia Grande, 65010 680 Tel (098) 3222 9937 Fax (098) 3221 4193 Rooms 28 This pousada offers one of the nicest accommodation options in the historic city. The best rooms are the spacious master suites, featuring tall colonial windows looking out on the small cobblestone square. The on-site coffee shop, Café Amazônia, serves a range of tropical salads and sandwiches. www.portasdaamazonia.com.br

SÃO LUĺS (Maranhão) Brisa Mar

Av São Marcos 12, Praia da Ponta d’Areia, 65077 310 Tel (098) 2106 0606 Fax (098) 3212 1212 Rooms 113 Located at Ponta D’Areia, the Brisa Mar conveniently lies between the historic center and the beaches of Calhau and Olho d’Agua. The rooms are bright and spacious and come with either a queen-size bed or two singles. The hotel boasts an impressive swimming pool. www.brisamar.com.br

TERESINA (Piauí) Luxor Piauí

Praça Marechal Deodoro 310, 64000 160 Tel (021) 3222 9700 Rooms 83 With an excellent location close to the city center and only 3 miles (5 km) from the airport, this recently renovated hotel is one of the best bargains in town. The modern rooms boast elegant decor. The on-site restaurant serves international and regional dishes. Complimentary breakfast and 24-hour room service. www.luxorhoteis.com

TERESINA (Piauí) Metropolitan

Av Frei Serafim 1696, 64001 020 Tel (086) 3216 8000 Fax (086) 3216 8011 Rooms 124 Geared towards the business traveler, the Metropolitan offers efficient and attentive service. All rooms feature verandas and are equipped with desk space, good lighting, Internet access, and an electronic room safe. The hotel has two restaurants and three bars. www.metropolitanhotel.com.br

PARÁ & AMAPÁ

ALGODOAL (Pará) Bela Mar

Av Beira Mar, Praia da V. do Algodoal Tel (091) 3854 1128 Rooms 16 A small but popular hotel, right on the beach at Algodoal, the Bela Mar offers fabulous value. Cheaper rooms come without bathrooms. The hotel restaurant serves simple, well-cooked meals. It is recommended to book in advance, particularly during high season. www.belamar.hpgvip.com.br

ALTER DO CHÃO (Pará) Beloalter

Rua Pedro Teixeira 38 Tel (093) 3527 1230 Rooms 26 The Beloalter is a fairly new accommodation complex located by the beach at the Lago Verde on the banks of the Rio Tapajos. A couple of eco-cabins, one built into a tree, can also be rented. The service is flawless. Exciting tropical garden setting, with several bird species and small monkeys. www.beloalter.com.br

BELÉM (Pará) Hotel Machado’s Plaza

Rua Henrique Gurjao s/n Tel (091) 4008 9800 Rooms 36 Centrally located, but off the main drag, the newly-built Machado’s Plaza is a very reasonable mid-range choice of accommodation. Tastefully decorated rooms come with a private bathroom, TV, and a personalized minibar. Laundry service is available, as is a fully-equipped fitness room and an events hall. www.machadosplazahotel.com.br

BELÉM (Pará) Hilton Belém

Av Presidente Vargas 882 Tel (091) 4006 7000 Fax (091) 3225 2942 Rooms 361 The most luxurious hotel in town, the Hilton Belém is located in the heart of the city, close to all the action. A modern hotel, it offers all the usual comforts of five-star accommodation. It also has a popular bar, Amazon. The foyer has some shops selling useful items and local crafts. Complimentary breakfast buffet. www.hilton.com

ILHA DE MARAJÓ (Pará) Paracauary Eco Pousada

Av Prado 6, Bairro Novo, Soure Tel (091) 3222 6442 Rooms 8 A small but attractive pousada, the Paracauary is preferred for its uplifting ambience and breathtaking vistas. The unpretentious apartments make up for their lack of character by providing basic comforts. Bicycles can be hired and fishing trips can be arranged. The service is efficient. www.paracauary.com.br

ILHA DE MARAJÓ (Pará) Pousada dos Guarás

Av Beira Mar s/n Km 3, Praia Grande Tel (091) 3765 1133 Rooms 50 Located on a fine beach, this pousada offers log cabin apartments, each appointed with modern comforts, including TV and a minibar. In addition to a good pool, recreational areas include play area, sport court, and soccer camp. Motorbikes can be hired and horse-riding is also offered. www.pousadadosguaras.com.br

MACAPÁ (Amapá) Atalanta

Av Coarary Nunes 1148 Tel (096) 3223 1612 Rooms 36 A medium-size hotel offering high levels of comfort, the Atalanta offers the added luxury of a sauna room. With subtle colors and subdued lighting, the rooms exude refinement. Service is good and the food served in its restaurant is delicious. There is also a decent café. www.atalantahotel.com.br

MACAPÁ (Amapá) Macapá Hotel

Rua Francisco Azarias Neto 17 Tel (096) 3217 1350 Rooms 20 One of the better mid-range hotels in town, the Macapá offers rooms with a spacious terrace and view, in addition to the regular interior rooms. Other features include a sauna room, a children’s play area, and tennis courts. All rooms are ample in size, well-maintained, and have a pleasant bathroom.

SALINÓPOLIS (Amapá) Paraiso do Atlântico

2 miles (3 km) from town, Rua 17 Quadra 123, Lote 15 Tel (091) 3423 2030 Rooms 63 Though quite far from the town center, the Paraiso do Atlântico is a new hotel close to the river and beach. It offers most modern conveniences and is reasonably priced. The bar is good and there is also a children’s play area. The best feature of the hotel, however, is the splendid view of the beach.

SANTARÉM (Amapá) Rio Dourado

Rua Floriano Peixoto 799 Tel (093) 3522 0298 Rooms 30 Refurbished recently, the Rio Dourado is favored for its excellent central location. Clean accommodation and good service are provided at quite affordable rates. The beds are comfortable and the bathrooms fitted with hot showers. All rooms come with TVs and fridge bars. The staff are warm and courteous.

SANTARÉM (Amapá) Santarém Palace Hotel

Av Rui Barbosa 726 Tel (093) 3523 2820 Rooms 44 A stylish hotel, the Santarém Palace was built in 1980. Relatively cheap for the standards of comfort and service that it offers, it is a popular place with Brazilian and foreign visitors. Rooms are a bit on the small side, but furnished with modern facilities. Reasonably priced river tours can be arranged by the hotel. Key to Price Guide see p366 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

AMAZONAS, RORAIMA, ACRE & RONDÔNIA BOA VISTA (Roraima) Euzébio’s

Rua Cecília Brasil 1107 Tel (095) 3623 0300 Rooms 10 This popular hotel offers comfortable rooms, all equipped with basic amenities. The standard rooms are cheaper, though a bit on the small side. The cheerfully decorated bigger rooms come with hot water, minibar, and telephone. The hotel provides a free shuttle service to the airport.

BOA VISTA (Roraima) Aipana Plaza

Praça Centro Cívico 53 Tel (095) 3224 4800 Rooms 87 One of the few hotels in town with both a nice pool and a decent restaurant, the Aipana Plaza offers excellent value. The large rooms have glass showers and cozy beds. There are sculptures in the hallway, while the grand lobby, too, is replete with fascinating sculptures and polished stone floors. www.aipanaplaza.com.br

MAMIRAUÁ RESERVE (Amazonas) Uakari Floating Lodge

Accessed by plane to Tefé, then by boat Tel (097) 3343 4160 Rooms 5 cabins Located up the Rio Solimões, this floating lodge is in an area of relatively untouched, seasonally flooded vegetation. A fleet of boats make it possible to explore from the Uacari, which is a comfortable base within the reserve. The lodge was the winner of the Conde Nast Best Ecotourism Destination 2003. www.amazontravel.com

MAMORI (Amazonas) Amazon Gero’s Lodge

Dez de Julho 679, Centro Tel (092) 3232 4755 Rooms 10 A new lodge offering a wide range of comforts in individual and family cabins, plus hammock space for more basic accommodation. Located on the Lago Arara, just off the Paraná do Mamori, it is surrounded by beautiful rainforest and lakes. Pink dolphins can usually be seen swimming nearby. www.amazonjungletour.com

MAMORI (Amazonas) Dolphin Lodge

Rua Dr. Odilon 16a Tel (092) 3613 4683 Rooms 8 apartments Comfortable and attractive, this rustic jungle lodge has a central circular restaurant and bar, with wooden double bedrooms running off along a wooden walkway. Located on the Paraná do Mamori, the Dolphin Lodge is ideal for bird-watching and exploring wildlife in the surrounding forest. www.maiaexpeditionstur.com.br

MANAUS (Amazonas) Hospedaje 10 de Julho

10 de Julho 679 Tel (092) 3232 6280 Rooms 40 A stone’s throw from Teatro Amazonas (see p282–3) in an up-and-coming part of the town center, this fairly cozy mid-range hotel is immensely popular with overseas travelers. The generously-proportioned rooms come with TV and a good shower. Views tend to be restricted, even on the upper floors. www.hoteldezdejulho.com

MANAUS (Amazonas) Ana Cassia Palace Hotel

Rua dos Andradas 14 Tel (092) 3622 3637 Rooms 88 Known for its stupendous views across the city from the rooftop breakfast space, the Ana Cassia is an exceptional mid-range option. Rooms are comfortable and very clean, and all of them are provided with a fridge-bar and TV. Service is reasonable. Ana Cassia is close to the port area. www.hotelanacassia.com.br

MANAUS (Amazonas) Best Western Lord Manaus

Rua Marcílio Dias 217 Tel (092) 3622 2844 Rooms 102 A fairly well-maintained hotel, this Best Western property was built in 1959. It has comfortable beds, good air conditioning, and decent bathrooms. The Ristorante Fiorentina (see p408) offers a wide range of Italian dishes. The location is central to the business district and close to the port and Teatro Amazonas. www.bestwestern.com.br

MANAUS (Amazonas) Taj Mahal Continental Hotel

Av Getúlio Vargas 741 Tel (092) 3627 3737 Rooms 170 The smartest and most expensive hotel in downtown Manaus, the Taj Mahal offers great service and a range of high-quality rooms and suites. Its revolving restaurant has stunning views of the Rio Negro and Teatro Amazonas. The hotel’s own travel agency service is located inside.

MANAUS (Amazonas) Tropical Manaus

Av Coronel Teixeira 1320, Ponta Negra Tel (092) 2123 5000 Rooms 594 Located right out of town at Ponta Negra, the Tropical is very upmarket, sometimes serving as a conference center for high-level politics. It offers top-quality comfort, food, and service, right on the edge of the rainforest. It has a great pool, a sauna, five bars with live music, and even an archery field. www.tropicalhotel.com.br

PORTO VELHO (Rondônia) Central

Rua Terreiro 2472 Tel (069) 2181 2500 Fax (069) 3224 5114 Rooms 78 A modern hotel within easy walking distance of downtown and the riverside and museums, the Central has been recently refurbished. Though somewhat lacking in character, the rooms are spacious and clean. Most have full views over the city. Service is consistently good. www.enter-net.com.br/central

PORTO VELHO (Rondônia) Samauma

Rua D. Pedro II 1038 Tel (069) 3224 5300 Rooms 33 This moderately-proportioned hotel offers small cabin-like rooms, all of which open quite close to the street. A good mid-range choice, ideal for staying one or two nights, the Samauma provides modern amenities, including a fridge-bar in every room. In addition to a restaurant, there is a decent on-site bar.

PORTO VELHO (Rondônia) Vila Rica

Av Carlos Gomes 1616 Tel (069) 3224 3433 Rooms 115 Reputed to be the most luxurious hotel in town, the Vila Rica has a grand entrance. Rooms are adequate, well-kept, and thoughtfully furnished with modern comforts. There are scenic views from the top floors. Service is first-rate. The pool is relatively large, while the restaurant has a good reputation. www.hotelvilarica.com.br

PRESIDENTE FIGUEIREDO (Amazonas) Iracema Falls

7 miles (12 km) from town, access road at Km 115 of BR-174 Hwy Tel (092) 3234 5500 Rooms 92 With its own natural swimming spot, the Iracema Falls enjoys a beautiful countryside setting. Cozy apartments, a fine restaurant, bar, and good sports facilities are offered at this charming lodge. Service is quick and parking ample. There are separate swimming pools for children and adults. www.iracemafalls.com.br

RIO BRANCO (Acre) Terra Verde

Rua M. Deodoro 221 Tel (068) 2106 6000 Rooms 29 Recently built and furnished, this plush hotel offers all modern conveniences, including a fridge-bar and cable TV in every room. Bright walls and cheerful decor liven up the spacious rooms. A wide buffet selection is available at breakfast. Service is exceptionally good. www.terraverdehotel.com.br

RIO BRANCO (Acre) Pinheiro Palace

Rua Rui Barbosa 450 Tel (068) 3223 7191 Rooms 60 Conveniently located in the city center, this relatively upscale hotel is one of the best and largest in Rio Branco. Rooms are fairly modern, and the lobby airy and spacious. Most of the upper-story rooms have splendid views over the city. The restaurants are good and the service impeccable. www.irmaospinheiro.com.br

BRASÍLIA, GOIÁS & TOCANTINS BRASÍLIA Blue Tree Park

SHTN, Trecho 01, Lote 1B – Bloco C, 70800 200 Tel (061) 3424 7000 Fax (061) 3424 7001 Rooms 394 This is a large business and family hotel overlooking Lago do Paranoá, close to the Brazilian President’s residence in the Palácio do Alvorado. Top-notch services include a spa and massage, saunas, and tennis courts. A complimentary shuttle service to the town center is on offer. Close to Brasília International Airport. www.bluetree.com.br

BRASÍLIA Kubitschek Plaza

SHTN, Quadra 2, Bloco E, 70702 904 Tel (061) 3329 3333 Rooms 243 A business hotel elegantly decorated in homage to the founder of Brasília, President Kubitschek (see p58–9). The best of its well-equipped rooms come with a balcony and superb views. There is a relaxing swimming pool, a business center, a café, a lobby bar, and two elegant diners, the Diamantina and Vila Rica. www.kubitschek.com.br

CHAPADA DOS VEADEIROS (Goiás) Casa Rosa

12 miles (18 km) SE of park, Rua Gumercindo 233, Alto Paraíso de Goiás Tel (062) 3446 1319 Rooms 13 Comfortable chalets and modest apartments are set in a garden on the edge of Alto Paraíso. Close to many of the region’s numerous waterfalls, Casa Rosa is a convenient base for exploring the natural reserve of the Chapada dos Veadeiros and works closely with one of the area’s good tour operators. www.pousadacasarosa.com.br

CHAPADA DOS VEADEIROS (Goiás) Pousada Fazenda São Bento

Estrada para São Jorge Km 8 Tel (062) 3459 3000 Fax (062) 9967 8265 Rooms 20 A converted fazenda on the edge of the national park, the São Bento offers a series of rustic chalets with terra-cotta roofs and stone walls set in the cerrado (grassland). Excellent for bird-watching. Trails lead to waterfalls and tours to the park can be organized. The on-site restaurant serves decent food. www.pousadasaobento.com.br

CHAPADÃO DO CÉU (Goiás) Pousada das Emas

17 miles (27 km) S of Parque Nacional das Emas, Rua Ipê, Qd. 17, Lote 1 Tel (062) 3634 1382 Rooms 19 Located in Chapadão das Céu, which is a convenient base for the Parque Nacional das Emas, this unpretentious pousada is popular with budget travelers. All rooms come with TV and a clean bathroom. Although no fine-dining option is available, there is a no-frills snack bar.

CIDADE DE GOIÁS (Goiás) Casa de Ponte

Rua Moretti Foggia s/n Tel (062) 3371 4467 Fax (062) 3371 4467 Rooms 38 A recently refurbished hotel in the center of town, the Casa de Ponte is a perfect choice for travelers on a budget. Very simple, but well-maintained and adequately appointed with basic conveniences, rooms are housed in a large colonial building overlooking a tiny river. The staff are courteous and service fairly prompt. Key to Price Guide see p366 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

JALAPÃO (Tocantins) Korubo Safari Camp

Between Parque Estadual do Jalapão & Ecological Station Tel (011) 5083 6968 Rooms 10 This Botswana-style safari camp with very comfortable tents can be found next to the fast-flowing Novo Rio. The area is visited by fascinating wildlife, including the Brazilian merganser, one of the world’s rarest birds. The price includes meals, guided trips around Jalapão, and transfer from the main town, Palmas. www.korubo.com.br

PALMAS (Tocantins) Pousada dos Girassóis

Av NS 1, 103 Sul, Conj. 03, Lote 44, 77163 070 Tel (063) 3219 4500 Fax (063) 3215 2321 Rooms 74 Small, but well-kept, this standard three-star hotel offers rooms just next to the central Praça dos Girassois. The Palazzo restaurant is one of the finest in town. Korubo, the best-known among the Jalapão-based operators, picks up travelers from the pousada. www.pousadadosgirassois.com.br

PIRENÓPOLIS (Goiás) Pousada o Casarão

Rua Direita 79, Centro Histórico Tel (062) 3331 2662 Rooms 8 A charming colonial house in a quiet street, the Pousada do Casarão is just a five-minute walk from the Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário Matriz (see p308). It offers a range of spacious rooms, all decorated with rustic period furniture. Superb complimentary breakfasts are offered. www.ocasarao.pirenopolis.tur.br

MATO GROSSO & MATO GROSSO DO SUL

ALTA FLORESTA (Mato Grosso) Cristalino Jungle Lodge

Rio Cristalino Tel (066) 3512 7100 Fax (066) 3521 2221 Rooms 8 One of the best Amazon jungle lodges in South America, the Cristalino Jungle Lodge has superb, tastefully designed luxury bungalows, in addition to a range of cheaper accommodation. The main draw, however, is the first-class wildlife viewing and the guided tours. www.cristalinolodge.com.br

BONITO (Mato Grosso do Sul) Zagaia Eco-Resort

Rodovia Bonito-Três Morros, 79290 000 Tel (067) 3255 5500 Fax (067) 3255 5602 Rooms 100 A large resort-style family hotel, the Zagaia is set in expansive grounds next to the forest. While the apartments are a bit plain, the chalets are quite comfortable. Facilities include horse-riding, a play area for children, tennis courts, two pools, and saunas. Breakfast and dinner are included in the tariff. www.zagaia.com.br

CAMPO GRANDE (Mato Grosso do Sul) Jandaía

Rua Barão do Rio Branco 1271, 79002 174 Tel (067) 3316 7700 Fax (067) 3316 7700 Rooms 140 A modern, well-appointed business hotel in the heart of Campo Grande, the Jandaia is one of the most luxurious options in town. It has two elegant restaurants, Jandaía Plaza and Imperium. Service is first-rate and there are scenic views from the upper floors. www.jandaia.com.br

CHAPADA DOS GUIMARÃES (Mato Grosso) Pousada Penhasco

Av Penhasco s/n, 78195 000 Tel (065) 3301 1555 Rooms 7 This is a small English-run pousada in an old colonial house on the edge of town. Guests can choose from a variety of rooms, ranging from single to those sleeping up to four people. Breakfast and afternoon tea are complimentary. The on-site observatory has stunning views of the Chapada dos Guimarães area. www.penhasco.com.br

CORUMBÁ (Mato Grosso do Sul) Nacional Palace

Rua America 936, Corumbá Tel (067) 3234 6000 Rooms 98 A standard three-star town hotel, the Nacional Palace offers extraordinary value for money. Rooms are plush with classy decor. The interior features contemporary furniture. There is an attractive pool and a recreation area. The onsite restaurant is reputed to be one of the best in town. www.hnacional.com.br

CUIABÁ (Mato Grosso) Amazon Plaza

Av Presidente Getúlio Vargas 600, Centro, 78050 840 Tel (065) 2121 2000 Rooms 120 A converted business hotel with a florid Amazon theme, the Amazon Plaza is adorned with paintings of tropical forests, while lush plants decorate the public areas. The rooms are modest but well-kept. Upper floors have good views. The hotel restaurant boasts rustic decor and offers regional delicacies. www.hotelamazon.com.br

MIRANDA (Mato Grosso do Sul) Pousada Aguas do Pantanal

Afonso Pena Avenue 367 Tel (067) 3242 1314 Rooms 20 One of the best town-based options in the region, the Aguas do Pantanal offers a range of simple, comfortable rooms and several excellent tour operators, who can help travelers plan imaginative trips to the Pantanal (see p320–21) and Bonito (see p323). www.aguasdopantanal.com.br

MIRANDA (Mato Grosso do Sul) Fazenda Baía Grande

Estrada Miranda-Aldeia Lalima Km 18, Southern Pantanal Tel (067) 3382 4223 Rooms 6 The enthusiastic young grandson of a former jaguar hunter runs this small farm. The most spectacular wildlife viewing is possible at dawn around the farm’s huge private lake. The rate covers meals and rides, accompanied by a guide. Nature walks, piranha-fishing, and night excursions are available. www.fazendabaiagrande.com.br

MIRANDA (Mato Grosso do Sul) Cacimba de Pedra

Reino Selvagem, BR-262 Km 17, Southern Pantanal Tel (067) 3382 1555 Rooms 12 Newly-built motel-like rooms are provided in one of the Pantanal’s few caiman farms. Hearing them hiss and gurgle as the owner throws them meat, is unforgettable. Stays also include tours into the Pantanal. The enormous swimming pool and mesmerizing sunsets add to the visit. www.cacimbadepedra.com.br

MIRANDA (Mato Grosso do Sul) Fazenda Meia Lua

BR-262 Km 10, Southern Pantanal Tel (067) 9981 1066 Rooms 6 An intimate, family-run fazenda, the Meia Lua offers weekend and day packages, ideal for exploring the stunning wildlife of the Pantanal. The pool area, friendly staff, and light tours make it perfect for families. The best accommodation is in the self-contained house set in gardens next to the swimming pool. www.fazendameialua.com.br

MIRANDA (Mato Grosso do Sul) Fazenda San Francisco

BR-262 Km 30, Rua Calarge 349, Vila Glória, Southern Pantanal Tel (067) 3325 6606 Rooms 5 With very functional accommodation, this fazenda is known to provide the best chances of spotting the amazing Pantanal wildlife, including jaguars and ocelots. The bird-watching guides are acclaimed. The farm also runs an interesting jaguar conservation project. www.fazendasanfrancisco.tur.br

MIRANDA (Mato Grosso do Sul) Refúgio Ecológico Caiman

Estrada para Agachi Km 37, Southern Pantanal, 01452 000 Tel (011) 3706 1800 Rooms 29 The most luxurious accommodation in the Pantanal, this hotel sits in the heart of a wild preserve replete with animals and has its own conservation programs. Guided tours, which are included in the price along with full board, are timetable strict.The hotel has a good restaurant and bar. www.caiman.com.br

POCONÉ (Mato Grosso) Pouso Alegre

Transpantaneira Km 33, Northern Pantanal Tel (065) 9968 6101 Rooms 14 In the frontier town of Poconé, which is the primary entry point into the northern Panatanal for those heading south from Cuiabá, this rustic pousada focuses mainly on wildlife viewing. Guided tours can be best organized by the owner, or a specialist bird-watching guide. The surroundings are breathtaking. www.pousalegre.com.br

POCONÉ (Mato Grosso) Araras Lodge

Transpantaneira Km 29, Northern Pantanal Tel (065) 3682 2800 Fax (065) 3682 1260 Rooms 19 One of the best lodges on the Transpantaneira and popular with Europeans. The wildlife viewing is excellent, especially at dawn, from the treehouse over the lake. Activities, such as trekking, canoeing, riding, truck safaris, and night tours, can be organized by expert bilingual naturalist guides. www.araraslodge.com.br

NHECOLÂNDIA (Mato Grosso do Sul) Fazenda Rio Negro

Rua Paraná 32, Jd. dos Estado, Southern Pantanal (plane access only), 79021 220 Tel (067) 3326 0002 Rooms 13 This converted 19th-century ranch house also functions as the main office of the Centro de Pesquisa para Conservação (Conservation Research Center). Wildlife viewing is superb and guiding competent. The VIP suite has some of the best accommodation in the area. Rate includes full board and tours. www.fazendarionegro.com.br

SANTA CATARINA & PARANÁ CURITIBA (Paraná) Elo Hotel

Rua Amintas de Barros 383, 80060 200 Tel (041) 3028 9400 Fax (041) 3028 9404 Rooms 38 Located next to the Federal University in the city center, this inexpensive hotel is slightly dated, but offers remarkable value. The standard rooms are quite small but the suites, only a little more expensive, are very spacious. Unusually for a hotel in this price range, a sauna and rooftop pool are offered. www.hoteiselo.com.br

CURITIBA (Paraná) Ibis Centro Civíco

Rua Mateus Leme 358, 80510 190 Tel (041) 3324 0469 Fax (041) 3323 3404 Rooms 80 A few minutes’ walk from Curitiba’s historic center, this budget hotel consists of an old German-style house (the reception area) linked to a modern tower block that has the guest rooms. The rooms are compact, but comfortable, and the service efficient. Pre-book for weekday stays. www.accorhotels.com.br

CURITIBA (Paraná) Full Jazz Hotel

Rua Silveira Peixoto 1297, Batel, 80060 200 Tel (041) 3312 7000 Rooms 76 Jazz pervades every aspect of this hotel, from the ambient music, DVD library, and decoration to its upbeat Restaurante New Orleans and Full Jazz Bar. With modern rooms and live jazz, it is popular with musicians visiting the city. The surrounding streets have some of Curitiba’s best bars and restaurants. www.hotelslaviero.com.br

CURITIBA (Paraná) Hotel Nikko

Rua Barão do Rio Branco 546, 80010 180 Tel (041) 2105 1808 Fax (041) 2105 1838 Rooms 74 Located midway between the bus and train station and the city center, the hotel is tastefully furnished in modern Japanese style. The guest rooms are decorated in neutral colors and all have a minibar, cable TV, and wireless Internet. There is a pretty Japanese courtyard garden and a restaurant. www.hotelnikko.com.br Key to Price Guide see p366 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

CURITIBA (Paraná) Four Points Sheraton

Av 7 de Setembro 4211, Batel, 8006 0200 Tel (041) 3340 4000 Fax (041) 3340 4001 Rooms 165 One of Curitiba’s newest luxury hotels catering mainly to business travelers, this Sheraton flagship boasts spacious recreation areas, comfortably furnished rooms, and an extremely helpful multilingual staff. The hotel is located in upmarket Batel, with excellent bars and restaurants nearby. www.starwood.com

FLORIANÓPOLIS (Santa Catarina) Ibis

Av Rio Branco 37, 8801 5010 Tel (048) 3216 0000 Fax (048) 3216 0001 Rooms 198 An extremely efficient, large city-center hotel with young helpful staff, the Ibis is a ten-minute walk from the main square and near many good restaurants. Rooms, all en suite, are compact, with new, comfortable furniture. Reservations are advised, as it is very popular with both business visitors and tourists. www.accor.com.br

FLORIANÓPOLIS (Santa Catarina) Pousada Bizkaia

Estrada Geral da Praia da Joaquina 682, 8806 2600 Tel (048) 3232 5273 Rooms 16 This small, friendly pousada enjoys a quiet location near Cento da Lagoa, one of Florianópolis’s liveliest nightlife spots, and convenient for Joaquina, Mole, and other east coast beaches. Rooms are simple, attractively furnished, and most have a large balcony. www.bizkaia.com.br

FLORIANÓPOLIS (Santa Catarina) Quintal da Sol

Rodovia Gilson da Costa Xavier 1562, Sambaqui Tel (048) 3235 2334 Rooms 4 cabins Located across the road from the beach between Santo Antônio de Lisboa and Sambaqui, two pretty fishing villages on the quiet west coast of the island. Accommodation is in cabins that sleep up to seven people. All have a separate living room, bathroom, and small kitchen. The owners are welcoming and helpful. www.quintaldasol.com.br

FLORIANÓPOLIS (Santa Catarina) Hotel São Sebastião da Praia

Av Campeche 1373, 8806 3300 Tel (048) 3338 2020 Rooms 74 A short stroll from the unspoiled Campeche beach, this hotel stands on a beautifully landscaped property with a mix of lawns, original trees, and flowering bushes. Rooms, all with balconies, are cool and simply furnished. All have minibars and air conditioning, while some have separate sitting areas. www.hotelsaosebastiao.com.br

FLORIANÓPOLIS (Santa Catarina) Majestic Palace Hotel

Av Rubens de Arruda Ramos 2746, 8801 5010 Tel (048) 3231 8025 Rooms 259 The largest, newest, and most luxurious hotel in downtown Florianópolis, the Majestic Palace offers good value for money. There are large, comfortably furnished rooms and huge suites, most of which have sea views. There is a business center, restaurants, fitness center, and a large pool with great sea views. www.majesticpalace.com.br

FLORIANÓPOLIS (Santa Catarina) Pousada Alemdomar

Rua Lagoa do Peri 403, Armação, 8806 6000 Tel (048) 3237 5600 Rooms 6 This pretty pousada lies a short distance from the Armação beach and Lagoa do Peri, in the south of the island. Set amid original forest and beautiful gardens, it offers guests personalised attention and a peaceful atmosphere, and has simple but very comfortable rooms, all with a terrace or balcony. www.alemdomar.com.br

FLORIANÓPOLIS (Santa Catarina) Pousada Vila Tamarindo

Av Campeche 1836, Praia do Campeche, 8806 3000 Tel (048) 3237 3464 Rooms 15 Vila Tamarindo is located a short walk from the Campeche beach in the southeast of the island. Rooms, all with a terrace or balcony and most with sea views, are light, airy, and painted in bright colors. A large garden, cozy sitting areas, and a small pool create a very relaxed atmosphere. Staff are helpful. www.tamarindo.com.br

FLORIANÓPOLIS (Santa Catarina) Pousada da Vigia

Rua Conêgo W. Castro 291, Praia da Lagoinha de Ponta das Canas, 8805 6770 Tel (048) 3284 1789 Rooms 10 At the extreme northeast tip of the island, this small building was the private residence of a former governor of Santa Catarina state. The pousada is beautifully positioned above a rocky stretch of the coast, next to sheltered beaches with forest behind. Most of the rooms have balconies and sea views. www.pousadavigia.com.br

FOZ DO IGUAÇU (Paraná) Paudimar Hostel

Rodovia das Cataratas 12.5, Remanso Grande, 8585 3000 Tel (045) 3529 6061 Rooms 80 beds Located roughly midway between the city center and Parque Nacional do Iguaçu (see p342), the Paudimar is Brazil’s best-equipped youth hostel. Dorms and private doubles are available. Leisure facilities, including a large pool, are excellent, and good, inexpensive meals are served. www.paudimar.com.br

FOZ DO IGUAÇU (Paraná) Continental Inn

Av Paraná 1089, 85852 000 Tel (045) 2102 3000 Rooms 124 The inn has a quiet city-center location. Rooms are tastefully furnished and the suites, with separate sitting area and views across the city, are huge and especially good value. Attractive pool area in a central patio. The en suite bathrooms come with jacuzzi, douche, separate bathtub, and hair dryer. www.continentalinn.com.br

FOZ DO IGUAÇU (Paraná) Hotel Nadai

Av República Argentina 1332, 8585 2000 Tel (045) 3521 5050 Rooms 82 Located in the heart of the city of Foz do Iguaçu, the Nadai is a popular choice with budget-conscious tour groups. The rooms are bright, newly furnished, and comfortable, although a bit on the small side. Service is extremely efficient. The hotel is close to the main tourist attractions. www.hotelnadai.com.br

FOZ DO IGUAÇU (Paraná) Pousada Evelina Navarrete

Rua Irlan Kalichewski 171, 85853 190 Tel (045) 3574 3817 Rooms 25 A firm favorite among foreign travelers, this modern family-run pousada in the city has a friendly multilingual owner and staff. Rooms are small and simply furnished, but comfortable. There is a pool and a pleasant sun terrace. Transfers to the parks can be arranged. www.pousadaevelina.com.br

FOZ DO IGUAÇU (Paraná) Hotel San Martin

Rodavia das Cataratas Km 17, 85863 000 Tel (045) 3529 8088 Rooms 142 Located alongside the Parque das Aves and across from the park’s visitor center, this hotel has comfortable and well-equipped rooms. What makes the hotel special is its well-tended tropical garden (with an attractive pool) and the trails through the forest that has been preserved on the property. www.hotelsanmartin.com.br

FOZ DO IGUAÇU (Paraná) Tropical das Cataratas

Rodovia das Cataratas Km 28, Parque Nacional do Iguaçu, 85853 000 Tel (045) 3521 7000 Rooms 203 The only hotel in the Parque Nacional, the Tropical das Cataratas lies in a sprawling, colonial-style building. The service is impersonal and the rooms are remarkably simple, but there is a large pool and a very good restaurant. Transfers to the Argentine park can be arranged. www.tropicalhotel.com.br

ILHA DE SUPERAGÜI (Paraná) Sobre as Ondas

Barra do Superagüi, Guaraqueçaba Tel (041) 3482 7118 Rooms 13 Simple, but very neat, this hotel has extremely basic clapboard cabins, four of which come with private bathrooms. Arrangements can be made to collect guests in Paranaguá or Ilha do Mel. Boat trips are offered to outlying parts of the island as well as to other islands. Fishing trips are available. www.superagui.net

ILHA DO MEL (Paraná) Pousada das Meninas Praia das Conchas, Caixa Postal 10, 83251 000 Tel (041) 3426 8023 Rooms 9

A pretty and cozy pousada with a very friendly and relaxed atmosphere. The rustic rooms and cabins (with or without private bathrooms) sleep two to five guests. Reservations are always advisable. Boat trips to other islands can be arranged. www.pousadadasmeninas.com.br

ILHA DO MEL (Paraná) Pousadinha Farrol das Conchas

Praia do Farol, 83251 000 Tel (041) 3426 8026 Rooms 16 With simple rooms sleeping two to seven people, the Pousadinha attracts mainly young people who enjoy its lively atmosphere. The beach setting and proximity to the bars of Nova Brasília fishing village adds to its appeal. The on-site restaurant serves good, very reasonably priced Italian food. www.pousadinha.com.br

MORRETES (Paraná) Nhundiaquara Hotel

Rua General Carneiro 13, 83350 000 Tel (041) 3462 1228 Rooms 15 A simple, but characterful, old hotel in the center of town, this Nhundiaquara property is situated alongside the picturesque Rio Nundiaquara. Rooms are on the small side, though it is worth paying more for one overlooking the river. The hotel restaurant serves well-cooked regional food. Very popular with budget travelers.

MORRETES (Paraná) Santuário Nhundiaquara

Estrada das Prainhas Km 02, Porto de Cima Tel (041) 3462 1938 Rooms 8 In a park-like setting near the base of the Serra do Mar off Graciosa Road, the Nhundiaquara is one of the best budget hotels in the area. All rooms have ceiling fans, as well as balconies overlooking the gardens. There are nature trails through the forest to waterfalls and a natural swimming pool. www.nhundiaquara.com.br

PARANAGUÁ (Paraná) San Rafael

Rua Júlia da Costa 185, 83203 060 Tel (041) 3423 2123 Rooms 45 Despite an unremarkable mirror-glass front, San Rafael enjoys a central location and offers a good range of facilities, including a well-equipped business center. The apartments and suites in this modern hotel are all comfortably furnished and there is a decent on-site restaurant. www.sanrafaelhotel.com.br

RIO GRANDE DO SUL BENTO GONÇALVES Pousada Don Giovanni

VRS 805, Linha Amadeu 28 Km 12, Pinto Bandeira, 95717 000 Tel (054) 3451 4129 Rooms 6 Surrounded by vineyards, this imposing early 20th-century Italian-style farmhouse lies on the outskirts of town. Rooms feature a mix of antique and contemporary furniture, and have central heating for the winter. The on-site Italian restaurant is good and the estate’s own, quite respectable wines are served. www.dongiovanni.com.br

BENTO GONÇALVES Pousada Valduga

Rodovia RS-470 Km 68.5, Linha Leopoldina, Caixa Postal 579, 95700 000 Tel (054) 2105 3154 Rooms 20 A very comfortable guesthouse run by one of the foremost producers of quality wine in the Vale dos Vinjedos. Rooms range in quality (and price) from rustic but comfortable to large and lavishly furnished. Guests are invited to participate in a three-hour tasting course and can wander the hillside vineyards. www.casavalduga.com.br Key to Price Guide see p366 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

CANELA Pousada Quinta dos Marques

Rua Gravataí 200, 95680 000 Tel (054) 3282 9812 Rooms 13 Located close to the town center, this large wood-and-stone farmhouse in typical highland style dates back to the 1930s. The general feel of the pousada is rustic chic, dominated by polished wood and neutral tones. It is beautifully set amid native pine forest. www.quintadosmarques.com.br

CANELA Pousada Cravo & Canela

Rua Tenente Manoel Corrêa 144, 95680 000 Tel (054) 3282 1120 Rooms 11 An imposing Bavarian-style chalet in the center of town, the Cravo & Canela was built in the 1950s. Rooms are sumptuously furnished and there is an indoor heated pool. Excellent complimentary breakfast and a full afternoon tea. The large gardens are filled with native trees and flowering bushes. www.pousadacravoecanela.com.br

CAXIAS DO SUL Reynolds International

Rua Dr Montaury 1441, 95020 190 Tel (054) 3223 5844 Rooms 47 Considered to be the best among the more expensive hotels in town, the Reynolds is especially geared towards the needs of business visitors, with an impressive business center and conference facilities. Guest and public rooms are all elegantly furnished. Free transfer to the airport is offered. www.reynolds.com.br

GARIBALDI Hotel Casacurta

Rua Luíz Rogério Casacurta 510, 95720 000 Tel (054) 3462 2166 Rooms 31 Built in 1952 in the Art Deco style, this hotel boasts a recently refurbished interior, pleasantly embellished in pastel colours, chintz, and lace. The rooms are all very comfortable, but on the small side. The hotel has an outstanding Italian restaurant and a fine wine cellar. www.hotelcasacurta.com.br

GRAMADO Gramado Parque Hotel

Rua Leopoldo Rosenfeldt 818, 95670 000 Tel (054) 3286 2588 Rooms 33 Housed in a large Bavarian-style chalet, this 1940s establishment is one of the oldest hotels in Gramado. The rooms in the main building feature period furniture and wood paneling. Most rooms are in small, newer chalets set in a delightful garden with lots of hydrangeas and a small, sparkling lake. www.gramadoparquehotel.com.br

GRAMADO Estalagem St Hubertus

Rua da Carriere 974, 95670 000 Tel (054) 3286 1273 Rooms 26 Overlooking the Lago Negro, this property seems to be styled on an exclusive European lake-resort hotel. Guest rooms have floral patterns on furnishings and wallpaper. Lounges combine comfortable modern furniture with a classical country look. The manicured gardens abound with flowers and bushes. www.sthubertus.com

NOVA PETRÓPOLIS Recanto Suiça

Avenida 15 de Novembro 2195, 95150 000 Tel (054) 3281 1229 Rooms 15 A delightful inn that seems to belong in a Swiss village. Most rooms are in private cabins in the forested garden. While all are very simple, the wood-paneled rooms in the main building are especially cozy. The owner offers attentive service and local advice. Breakfast and other meals by arrangement. www.recantosuico.com.br

PORTO ALEGRE Comfort Porto Alegre

Rua Loureiro da Silva 1660, 90050 240 Tel (051) 2117 9000 Rooms 75 An efficient, new, city-center hotel, the Comforto Porto Alegre is popular with business travelers. The no-frills rooms are comfortable, offering a minibar and cable TV. Substantial weekend discounts are available. The on-site restaurant serves decent international cuisine. www.atlanticahotels.com.br

PORTO ALEGRE Plaza São Rafael

Av Alberto Bins 514, 90030 140 Tel (051) 3220 7000 Rooms 283 Much less expensive than the more modern, but characterless, luxury hotels elsewhere in Porto Alegre, the Plaza is by far the best city-center hotel. Though all rooms are comfortably and tastefully furnished, the ones on upper floors facing the lagoon are preferred for the fantastic views. Staff are helpful. www.plazahoteis.com.br

PORTO ALEGRE Sheraton Porto Alegre

Rua Olavo Barreto Viana 18 Tel (051) 2121 6000 Rooms 173 A new, luxury, business-oriented hotel above a small, upmarket shopping mall in Porto Alegre’s fashionable Moinhos de Vento suburb, this Sheraton flagship is close to the city’s best restaurants. The guest rooms and suites, all painted in tropical colors, exude sophistication. www.starwood.com

SÃO MIGUEL DAS MISSÕES Pousada das Missões

Rua São Nicolau 601, 98865 000 Tel (055) 3381 1202 Rooms 30 A youth hostel located right next to the Jesuit ruins, the Pousada das Missões welcomes guests of all ages. Rooms, all with a private bathroom, sleep one to four people. There is a large lounge area, garden, and a relaxing pool. This is excellent value for money. www.albergues.com.br/saomiguel

SÃO MIGUEL DAS MISSÕES Wilson Park

Rua São Miguel 664, 98865 000 Tel (055) 3381 2000 Rooms 78 Located alongside the Jesuit ruins, this large, sprawling property is popular with tour groups. The rooms are modern and comfortably furnished. Amenities include a large pool and tennis courts. The hotel restaurant, serving Brazilian and international cuisine, is the most popular in São Miguel. www.wilsonparkhotel.com.br

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Inside the restaurant in Renaissance Costa do Sauípe Resort

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Inside the Box 32 bar (see p411) in Florianópolis

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CHILDREN

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Por kilo self-service buffet at the Mangai restaurant (see p406)

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PRICE CATEGORIES These price bands are for a two-course meal and non-alcoholic drinks for one person, plus service charges. Alcoholic drinks are not included in the price. Under $10 $10–$20 $20–$30 $30–45 Over $45

RIO DE JANEIRO CITY BARRA DA TIJUCA Bistro Montagu

Av Armando Lombardi 800, Barra da Tijuca Tel (021) 2493 5966 A comfortable and cozy French bistro that has been generously applauded by Rio’s gastronomic critics and enjoys a good reputation among residents for the high quality of its food. The house specialties include baked duck thighs served with sweet potato mousseline and orange-cointreau sauce.

BARRA DA TIJUCA Hard Rock Café

Av das Americas 700, Citta América Tel (021) 2132 8000 A must on most visitors’ lists, the Rio branch of Hard Rock Café boasts three bars, a restaurant, terrace, and dance floor. The highlight of the café, however, is the rock memorabilia on display, associated with such music legends as Elvis and Madonna. The menu features delightful starters, salads, burgers, sandwiches, and pizzas.

BARRA DA TIJUCA Fratelli

Av Pepe 2916 Tel (021) 2494 6644 This spacious and stylish Italian restaurant has established itself as one of the best places to dine in Barra. When it comes to the cost, Fratelli is a bit steep on the pocket, but makes up with the sumptuous fare on offer. The pizza with great mozzarella cheese topping and ravioli stuffed with duck are favorites.

CENTRO Albamar

Praça Marechal Âncora 184 Tel (021) 2240 8428

Map 5 E3

The last remaining tower of the old municipal market in the historic quarter of downtown Rio, this simple and unpretentious restaurant first opened for business in 1933 and offers wonderful atmosphere with great views across Guanabara Bay. Signature seafood options range from fish fillet to Spanish-style octopus.

CENTRO Atrium Del Rey

Paço Imperial, Praça XV Tel (021) 2220 0193

Map 5 E3

What sets this place apart is its location in the old Palácio Imperial (see pp114–15) allowing the visitor to enjoy a meal in a setting that has witnessed many key events in Brazilian history. Popular with business executives, the Atrium offers a small but eclectically modern menu of international and Brazilian dishes.

CENTRO Cais do Oriente

Rua Visconde de Itaboraí 8 Tel (021) 2233 2531

Map 5 E3

Set in an old warehouse that dates from 1878, Cais do Oriente is an eclectic mix of restaurant, bar, and a lounge, which is the venue for jazz and bossa nova performances at night. The restaurant has an extensive menu, offering European and Asian platters, as well as traditional Brazilian cuisine.

COPACABANA & LEME Shirley

Rua General Sampaio 610, Caju Tel (021) 2542 1797 This small 38-cover outlet, one of Rio’s first Spanish eateries, upholds its culinary status even after many decades. The Spanish dishes, including a fine paella, are complemented with an excellent selection of seafood at very accessible prices. Shirley doesn’t take reservations, so expect to queue for a table.

COPACABANA & LEME Don Camillo

Av Atlântica 3056, Copacabana Tel (021) 2549 9958

Map 3 D3

One of the many beachfront restaurants along Copacabana (see p78), with tables laid out on the terrace as well as a more formal indoor dining area, Don Camillo has consistently stood out for the quality of its Italian and seafood dishes. Try the baked mix of lobster, shrimp, squid, mussels, tomato, potato, and the fresh fish of the day.

COPACABANA & LEME Marius

Av Atlântica 290, Leme Tel (021) 2104 9000 A typical Brazilian churrascaria rodízio, or revolving barbecue, this sizable restaurant is among the best and most innovative. A little expensive, Marius serves as many as 30 kinds of grilled meats. A superb salad bar with tasty vegetable combinations offers interesting options for vegetarians. Key to Symbols see back cover flap

COPACABANA & LEME Da Brambini

Av Atlântica 514, Leme Tel (021) 2275 4346 A pleasant change from the boisterous restaurants in Copacabana, this cozy little bistro with the feel of an Italian trattoria features cuisine from Northern Italy. Dishes include polenta with fresh mushrooms or gorgonzola cheese as an appetizer and osso buco (veal shanks braised in wine) as the main course. A good selection of Italian red wines.

COPACABANA & LEME Marius Crustáceos

Av Atlântica 290, Leme Tel (021) 2104 9002 Located next door to its popular steakhouse Marius, this outlet, decorated with maritime memorabilia, is renowned for its seafood preparations of prawns, oysters, and crabs. Popular Brazilian treats from the region of Bahia include moqueca (seafood stew) and vatapá (fish stew).

COPACABANA & LEME Cipriani

Av Atlântica 1702, Copacabana Palace, Copacabana Tel (021) 2545 8747

Map 3 E2

Offering the best of Northern Italian cuisine, Cipriani has been lauded since its opening in 1994 as one of Brazil’s best and most elegant restaurants. Housed in the legendary Copacabana Palace (see p78), diners can look out over the hotel’s pretty pool. Noted for freshly prepared pasta entrées and authentic Italian risotto.

COPACABANA & LEME Le Saint Honoré

Le Méridien, Av Atlântica 1020, Copacabana Tel (021) 3879 8880

Map 3 F1

Located 37 floors up on the top of Le Méridien (see p368), Le Saint Honoré offers stunning views of Sugar Loaf (see pp76–7) and Corcovado (see pp82–83). The menu of intricate, contemporary French cuisine, which uses fresh Brazilian herbs and fruits, complements the views along Copacabana beach.

FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO Lamas

Rua Marquês de Abrantes 18, Flamengo Tel (021) 2556 0799 A gastronomic institution frequented by well-known politicians, writers, and artists, this traditional restaurant offers good unpretentious food for all palates. Recommended for its steaks, the restaurant is also famous for its cod fishcakes, best savored with cold draught beer.

FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO Miam Miam

Rua General Góes Monteiro 34, Botafogo Tel (021) 2275 7855 Offering creative and innovative “comfort” food in attractive surroundings, Miam Miam draws an eclectic, cosmopolitan crowd. The 1890s house belonged to the chef’s grandmother and is decorated with furniture and artifacts from the 1950s, 60s, and 70s, all for sale.

FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO Yorubá

Rua Arnaldo Quintella 94, Botafogo Tel (021) 2541 9387 While the location is informal, critics tend to agree that Yorubá is Rio’s best Brazilian restaurant, especially when it comes to cuisine from the state of Bahia. Diners willing to be adventurous will find that an evening spent at Yorubá is a great introduction to one of the world’s greatest cuisines, relatively unknown outside its native Brazil.

FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO Porcão

Av Infante Dom Henrique, Attero do Flamengo Tel (021) 3461 9020 This flagship branch in Flamengo Park, with striking views of Sugar Loaf, not only serves outstanding barbecued meats, but the buffet alone offers nearly 50 varieties of regional dishes and salads. If you can’t get to this restaurant, Porcão maintains the same high standards in other outlets at Ipanema, Barra, and other locations around Rio.

FLORESTA DA TIJUCA Os Esquilos

Estrada D’ Escragnole s/n Tel (021) 2492 2197 Off the beaten track, located in the heart of the Tijuca Forest (see p88) in an old colonial house that has operated as a restaurant since 1945, this dining place offers a small menu of Brazilian and international favorites including feijoada (a bean and meat stew) at the weekend.

IPANEMA & LEBLON Alessandro e Frederico Pizzaria

Rua Garcia D’Ávila 151, Ipanema Tel (021) 2522 5415

Map 1 C5

Rio has a number of pizza parlors that vary from the traditional Pizza Guanabara in Leblon and Gattopardo on the Lagoa to this two-story house in Ipanema, which specializes in pizzas that even a Paulista would approve of. The pizzeria also boasts an impressive wine list.

IPANEMA & LEBLON Lã Mole

Rua Dias Ferreira 147, Leblon Tel (021) 2294 0699

Map 1 A4

This, the first branch of the Lã Mole chain, opened its doors back in 1958 as an ice cream and pizza parlor. Over the years, salads, risotto, and desserts have been added to the menu, building its reputation for excellent, valuebased Italian dining. Today, there are more than 15 Lã Mole restaurants across Rio and Niterói.

IPANEMA & LEBLON Carlota Rua Dias Ferreira 64, Leblon Tel (021) 2540 6821

Map 1 A4

Listed by Conde Nast Traveller as one of the 50 most exciting restaurants in the world, this small, attractive, laid-back bistro dishes out innovative and classical risotto, ravioli, Peking duck and the like from its small and ever-changing menu to provide a relaxing and enjoyable dining experience.

IPANEMA & LEBLON Plataforma

Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Leblon Tel (021) 2274 4022

Map 1 B2

This large barbecue house offers a watered-down version of Brazilian culture, with high quality meats served in the main restaurant. The late musician and composer, Tom Jobim, was a regular here. Additional attractions include Bar do Tom, with live Brazilian musical acts, and the comedy club, Caso do Riso.

IPANEMA & LEBLON Esplanada Grill

Rua Barão da Torre 600, Ipanema Tel (021) 2512 2970

Map 1 C4

For decades, this formal dining place has been Rio’s most stylish grill, offering quality meats at bargain prices. Esplanada Grill has little in common with the more frantic churrascaria rodízios, and its restful atmosphere makes it popular with business clientele, although there is nothing stiff about the atmosphere.

IPANEMA & LEBLON Madame Butterfly

Rua Barão da Torre 472, Ipanema Tel (021) 2267 4347

Map 2 A5

A Japanese restaurant that has firmly established itself on the evolving Brazilian gastronomic scene, Madame Butterfly provides a good selection of both classical and innovative Japanese dishes in cozy surroundings. Highlights include traditional umewan soup (sweet red bean soup with cherry blossom) and other Japanese dishes with a Brazilian twist.

IPANEMA & LEBLON Margutta

Rua Henrique Dumont 62, Ipanema Tel (021) 2259 3718

Map 1 C4

Hailing from a family of traditional chefs, Paolo Neroni arrived in Rio from Italy in 1982 and married a Brazilian, Conceição, in 1985. Together they opened this stylish and chic 70-cover restaurant in 1994. Traditional Italian cuisine and seafood are the strengths of this elegant dining option.

IPANEMA & LEBLON Satyricon

Rua Barão da Torre 192, Ipanema Tel (021) 2521 0627

Map 2 B4

An elegant, stylish choice that has seen celebrities such as Madonna and her entourage stroll through its door for dinner, used to be split between serving sophisticated Italian fare and seafood. Today, the focus is firmly on creative and outstanding seafood, including sushi.

IPANEMA & LEBLON Antiquarius

Rua Aristides Espínola 19, Leblon Tel (021) 2294 1049

Map 1 A5

Often billed as Rio’s best Portuguese restaurant, Anitquarius has been very consistent in its offerings since it first opened in 1975. Perna de cordeico (leg of lamb) is the most popular dish on the menu. A remarkable wine list, including Portuguese gourmands, complements the menu. Service is attentive and discreet.

IPANEMA & LEBLON Gero

Rua Aníbal de Mendonça 157, Ipanema Tel (021) 2239 8158

Map 1 C4

One of the most fashionable restaurants in Rio, with the impeccable pedigree of being part of the Fasano family that has been exciting Paulista palates for decades with its sophisticated Italian cuisine, Gero is the place to be seen along with the rich and the beautiful.

LAGOA & JARDIM BOTÂNICO Bar Lagoa

Av Epitácio Pessoa 1674, Lagoa Tel (021) 2523 1135

Map 2 A4

This Art Deco bistro has been around since 1934. German dishes figure heavily on the extensive menu, which offers meals and snacks for every taste. Excellent steaks and a signature sausage with potato salad accompanied by ice cold beer are on offer. Waiters are legendary for their bad humor and enjoy playing up to this reputation.

LAGOA & JARDIM BOTÂNICO Guimas

Rua José Roberto Macedo Soares 5, Gavea Tel (021) 2259 7996

Map 1 A2

An adventurous bistro with a relaxed atmosphere, Guimas has been a popular haunt of artists and the bohemian community since opening in 1981. The menu mixes old favourites with exciting innovative combinations. An informal restaurant, it offers good quality food at reasonable prices.

LAGOA & JARDIM BOTÂNICO Olympe

Rua Custódio Serrão 62, Jardim Botânico Tel (021) 2539 4542

Map 2 A1

Owner Claude Troisgros, one of the most recognized chefs in Brazil, continues to create culinary delights using the best in Brazilian ingredients combined with his grounding in traditional French cuisine. The passionfruit crêpe soufflé is a favorite dessert. Reservations are required.

RIO DE JANEIRO STATE & ESPÍRITO SANTO ILHA GRANDE (Rio de Janeiro) Sushi Leblon

Ilha de Itanhangá, Baía da Ilha Grande Tel (024) 3369 3558 Rio de Janeiro’s most famous Japanese restaurant caters to an island-hopping crowd during the high season. Located on an island, you need a boat to get here. Lunch here can be combined with an island cruise or a stop-off at one of the Ilha do Itanhanga’s many beautiful beaches. Key to Price Guide see p394 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

BÚZIOS (Rio de Janeiro) Satyricon

Av José Bento Ribeiro Dantas 500, Centro Tel (024) 2623 1595 Miro Leopardo’s Satyricon has been serving the best seafood in Rio de Janeiro for over 20 years. The restaurant is especially known for its oven-baked fish, served with rock salt and accompanied by lightly fried vegetables. A good selection of wine is available.

BÚZIOS (Rio de Janeiro) Sawasdee

Av José Bento Ribeiro Dantas 422, Centro Tel (022) 2623 4644 This seafront restaurant serves Brazilian versions of simple Thai dishes. The restaurant’s pad thai is made from egg noodles fried with myashi sauce, baby squid, mussels, and prawns and garnished with coriander, lemon, and grated peanuts. The grilled salmon comes with a sliced mango, sweet and sour sauce, mint, and black pepper.

BÚZIOS (Rio de Janeiro) Casas Brancas

Pousada Casas Brancas, Morro do Humaitá 10 Tel (022) 2623 1458 This open-air restaurant and bar on the Morro do Humaíta offers sweeping views out over the bay. Popular with couples, the atmosphere is rendered romantic when the bar and the handful of tables are lit with candles in the evening. The highlight is light Mediterranean seafood and simple, elegant Italian dishes.

CABO FRIO (Rio de Janeiro) Restaurante La Gondole

Rua Almirante Barrosa 247, Passagem Tel (022) 2643 5264 The best seafood restaurant in Cabo Frio, Restaurante La Gondole is run by Swiss chef André Cabrini, who trained in France. House specialties include feuilleté de la mer, filo pastry filled with seafood and accompanied by stuffed mussels and saffron risotto.

GUARAPARI (Espírito Santo) Guaramare

Rodovia do Sol 65, Rodovia para Anchieta Tel (027) 3272 1300 Located between a busy main road and the beach resort of Guarapari, this restaurant, with its mock-farmhouse dining room and rustic ambience, is a haven of peace and at its most magical in the evenings. Highly recommended for its sumptuous seafood. Chef Vitor Bojovski has received numerous stars from Guia Quatro Rodas magazine.

PARATY (Rio de Janeiro) Catimbau

Baía de Paraty Tel (024) 9222 8954 Strikingly built between two giant boulders on a tiny island in the bay by local fisherman, Caca, and his Dutch wife, this restaurant and bar serves simple but superb fresh seafood amid great views. The caipirinhas, cocktails made with lime, sugar, and cachàca, are chilled and strong.

PARATY (Rio de Janeiro) Merlin O Mago

Rua do Comércio 376, Centro Histórico Tel (024) 3371 2154 This little rustic restaurant, tucked away in a forest just behind Paraty town, is a big draw not only for the delicious light Italian fare on offer, but for its tropical garden that attracts giant electric blue morpho butterflies, emerald hummingbirds, and flame red tanagers, who flutter through the restaurant’s open sides to the delight of diners.

PARATY (Rio de Janeiro) Punto Divino

Rua da Matriz 129, Praça da Matriz, Centro Histórico Tel (024) 3371 1348 Paraty’s best seafood restaurant is run by an Italian scuba diver who fell in love with the bay of Ilha Grande on a visit here some decades ago. Their Italian pizza, lighter on cheese than customary in Brazil, is a good choice. Classy live acoustic music plays during high season. There is an excellent wine list.

PARATY (Rio de Janeiro) Vila Verde

Estrada para Cunha km 7 Tel (024) 3371 7808 This little rustic restaurant, tucked away in a forest just behind Paraty town, is a big draw not only for the delicious light Italian fare on offer, but for its tropical garden that attracts giant electric blue morpho butterflies, emerald hummingbirds, and flame red tanagers, who flutter through the restaurant’s open sides to the delight of diners.

PARATY (Rio de Janeiro) Le Gite d’Indaiatiba

Rodovia Rio-Santos km 562, Graúna Tel (024) 9999 9923 In the heart of the Atlantic rainforest, next to the Bromelias spa (see p371), is one of Brazil’s finest restaurants. Classic French cuisine is combined with Brazilian tropical ingredients to create culinary delights. The fantastic meals are accompanied by excellent wines and jazz performances set amid the sweeping rainforest.

PETRÓPOLIS & TERESÓPOLIS (Rio de Janeiro) Locanda della Mimosa

Alameda das Mimosas 30, Vale Florido Tel (024) 2242 5405 One of the most distinguished restaurants and hotels, set in a colonial mansion in the forested hills near Petrópolis and Teresópolis, Locanda della Mimosa has won many accolades. Inspired by French nouvelle cuisine, the hearty meals are served in Brazilian-sized portions. There are plenty of Italian choices too. The wine list is superb.

VITÓRIA (Espírito Santo) Lareira Portuguesa

Av Saturnino de Brito 260 Tel (027) 3345 0329 This is the best of a handful of Portuguese restaurants in Vitória. The cooking and the service are directed by an owner and chef from Guarda in central Portugal and dishes like bacalhau (codfish) are served by black-tie and aproned waiters in a bustling dining room.

MINAS GERAIS

BELO HORIZONTE Splendido

Flat Volpi Residence, Rua Levindo Lopes 251, Savassi Tel (031) 3227 6446 One of the best restaurants in the city lies in the heart of the fashionable Savassi nightlife district. The menu and the bright atmosphere are light Mediterranean. Excellent pasta entrées are on offer and the wine list is respectable, with some imported wines from Tuscany.

BELO HORIZONTE Aurora

Rua Expedicionário Mário Alves de Oliveira 421, São Luis, Pampulha Tel (031) 3498 7567 The large, airy dining room overlooks a little private garden close to Oscar Niemeyer’s Pampulha (see p125). The cuisine is Brazilian-Oriental fusion, with delectable items like steak with jabuticaba sauce and tiger prawns in wasabi sauce with wild rice and grated mango.

BELO HORIZONTE Vecchio Sogno

Rua Martim de Carvalho 75, Santo Agostinho Tel (031) 3292 5251 This bustling Italian restaurant has been named Belo Horizonte’s best restaurant of the year in Veja magazine seven times over. Chef Ivo Faria da Costa learnt his trade from Frenchman Lucien Iltis at the Copacabana Palace in Rio, and is celebrated for his pastas and steaks. The wine list and sommeliers are excellent.

DIAMANTINA Cantina do Marinho

Rua Direita 113 Tel (038) 3531 1686 One of the handful of restaurants in the area, Cantina do Marinho has a formal atmosphere, with a dining room decorated with assorted bottles of wine. The filling prato feito (buffet lunch) includes a drink. Try the delicious traditional lombo com feijão tropeiro (pork with beans).

MARIANA Lua Cheia

Rua Dom Viçoso 23, Centro Tel (031) 3557 3232 This busy restaurant serves typical Minas Gerais food por kilo (by weight), or all-you-can-eat the buffets, with plenty of choices of salads, vegetable dishes for the vegetarians, various cuts of meat from the churrascaria, and generous amounts of desserts.

OURO PRETO O Passo

Rua São José 56, Centro Tel (031) 3552 5089 Housed in a Portuguese colonial town house, this upmarket pizzeria offers pizzas made in a traditional Italian wood-fired oven, served either in the dining area, or the adjacent veranda which has sweeping views out over the town. At weekends there is live music and dancing.

OURO PRETO Triumpho

Rua Donato da Fonseca 02, Largo do Rosário Tel (031) 3552 6774 This local favorite is housed in a cozy cellar bar right next to the Igreja do Rosário. The menu comprises Minas Gerais cuisine, which is heavy on meat and vegetables like manioc and squash. Food comes accompanied by live acoustic music from guitarists and singer-songwriters, and there is a reasonable wine list.

OURO PRETO Le Coq D’Or

Rua Getulio Vargas 270, Largo do Rosário Tel (031) 3551 5200 The restaurant occupies a formal dining area inside the colonial Solar Nossa Senhora do Rosário hotel (see p373) and in a separate covered annex lit by natural light. The menu is largely Portuguese, focusing on fish, meat, and pasta. There is a modest wine list. The service is prompt and attentive.

SÃO JOÃO DEL REI Quinto do Ouro

Praça Severiano de Rezende 4 Tel (032) 3371 7577 Although it has plenty of cafés and por kilo options, São João, unlike neighboring Tiradentes, does not have many upmarket restaurants. The Quinto do Ouro offers the best Minas Gerais cooking in town, well-prepared regional food at reasonable prices.

PARQUE NACIONAL DA SERRA DA CANASTRA Zagaia Av Tancredo Neves 10 Tel (037) 3433 1323 This is the best of limited food choices available in Serra da Canastra, serving traditional local cuisine such as galinha caipira (stewed wild rooster), excellent pão de queijo (cheese rolls), and on select days, the Brazilian specialty, feijoada (black beans and pork stew).

PARQUE NACIONAL DA SERRA DO CIPÓ Parador Nacional

Alameda das Orquídeas, Parque Nacional Serra do Cipó Tel (031) 9984 3278 This stylish, romantic restaurant set in a rustic 18th-century colonial house is surrounded by picturesque tropical gardens, which are beautifully lit at night, setting the tone for a delightful meal. Chef Laurents blends Mediterranean cuisine with the regional Minas style of cooking to create an interesting menu. The wine list is respectable. Key to Price Guide see p394 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

TIRADENTES Quartier Latin

Rua São Francisco de Paula 46, Praça de Rodoviária Tel (032) 3355 1552 This restaurant, just across the river from the center of town, hosts the annual gastronomic festival (see p43). The French-trained chef offers a menu of Franco-Brazilian cuisine, as well as Italian fare and good seafood. Their own cultivated organic vegetables are used to make great salads, and there is a decent wine list.

TIRADENTES Tragaluz

Rua Direita 52 Tel (032) 3355 1979 Housed in an 18th-century colonial town house in the city center, Tragaluz has a menu offering a modern interpretation of traditional Mineira cuisine. Sumptuous dishes include smoked freshwater catfish in garlic crumbs and sweet potato. The restaurant is known for its desserts, especially the goiabada (guava paste).

TIRADENTES Theatro da Vila

Rua Padre Toledo 157 Tel (032) 3355 1275 In the heart of the town, this intimate restaurant occupies a converted colonial house. The dining room is rustic chic, decorated with local art and crafts, and offers a sweeping view out over a little garden and the mountains beyond. The meals are Franco-Brazilian. The little garden theater hosts performances in summer.

SÃO PAULO CITY JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA A Figueira Rubaiyat

Rua Haddock Lobo 1738, Jardins Tel (011) 3063 3888

Map 4 D3

The flagship outlet of the Rubaiyat group, this serves some of the best Brazilian beef in the city. The Figueira has an extensive menu with remarkable seafood, including fresh cananéia oysters from the oyster bar. Steaks remain the best choice on the menu. Tables sit under an enormous tropical fig tree and the ambience is informal-chic.

JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA D.O.M

Rua Barão de Capanema 549, Jardins Tel (011) 3088 0761

Map 4 D3

Among the most celebrated chefs in Brazil, Alex Atala has been voted chef of the year numerous times by Veja magazine. His innovative cooking fuses Brazilian ingredients with French and Italian styles, creating fantastic meals such as the Brazilian fish filhote with tapioca or heart of palm fettuccine carbonara.

JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA East

Alameda Jaú 1303 Tel (011) 3081 1160

Map 4 E2

East introduced São Paulo to vodka martini cocktails and authentic East Asian cuisine. The martinis come with a tropical twist, flavored with a gamut of sumptuous tropical ingredients such as maracuja (passionflower) and pink basil. The simple and sumptuous meals range from Thai curry to Korean grills.

JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA Gero

Rua Haddock Lobo 1629, Jardins Tel (011) 3064 0005

Map 4 D3

Rogerio Fasano’s other Italian restaurant in Jardins is the polar opposite of the eponymous Fasano, a highly regarded gourmet restaurant. Gero is a restaurant to be seen in, a favorite with celebrities, the fashionable set, and the young crowd. Diners wait at the long bar before dining on light Italian fare such as black polenta with baby squid.

JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA Fasano

Rua Vitório Fasano 88, Jardins Tel (011) 3896 4000

Map 4 D3

The flagship of the Fasano chain is the finest, most formal dining place in the city, with discreet dimly-lit booths. Sardinian chef Salvatore Loi dishes out excellent Italian and French creations with special emphasis on seafood. The wine list is among the best in the country. Live music plays in the adjacent cigar bar, Baretto.

CENTRO Ponto Chic

Largo do Paiçandu 27 Tel (011) 3222 6528

Map 1 C2

This small corner restaurant is a lunchtime institution. The Brazilian equivalent of the hamburger – the bauru – was invented here in the 1930s. The sandwich comprises a thick slab of yellow cheese, salad, and finely cut, rare roast beef held together in a crusty French roll. A photograph of Casemiro Pinto Neto, creator of the bauru, adorns the wall.

CENTRO La Casserole

Largo do Arouche 346, Vila Buarque Tel (011) 3331 6283

Map 1 B2

An intimate French restaurant and local institution founded in 1954, the dining room bustles at lunchtime and has a fixed menu. It is quieter and more romantic in the evenings, with a French-influenced menu that has changed little over the decades. Bouillabaisse and lamb shanks are popular choices.

CENTRO Terraço Itália Av Ipiranga 344, Edificio Itália Tel (011) 3257 6566

Map 1 B2, 1 B3

While some diners come here for the mock-Mediterranean food, most people are drawn by the spectacular view from the observation deck out over Oscar Niemeyer’s Edifício Copan and the vast sprawl of São Paulo. Come for a light soup, or try the grilled dourado fish with oyster if you want to dine.

FARTHER AFIELD Grazie a Dio

Rua Girassol 67, Vila Madalena Tel (011) 3031 6568 One of the best small venues for emerging Brazilian bands, the restaurant has hosted acts such as Clube do Balanco, Seu Jorge, and Tutti Bae, who played here on their journey to fame. The food is mock-Mediterranean, but the after-dinner performances and the cocktails are always great.

FARTHER AFIELD Capim Santo

Rua Min Rocha Azeredo 471, Vila Madalena Tel (011) 3068 8486 Capim Santo began as an informal fish restaurant in Trancoso. Once the town was discovered by international celebrities, the restaurant became one of the most fashionable places to dine. It recreates Bahian informality with tables set in a tropical garden and Bahian music in the background. The menu is predominantly seafood.

HIGIENÓPOLIS Carlota

Rua Sergipe 753 Tel (011) 3661 8670 This New York-inspired deli is now a favorite with food-loving intellectuals from São Paulo’s Zona Sul. The atmosphere is chic rustic, the dining room buzzes with conversation, and the menu offers delicious AsianMediterranean cuisine utilizing Brazilian ingredients. The puddings are legendary.

PARQUE DO IBIRAPUERA & AROUND Prêt no MAM

Portão 3 Tel (011) 5549 9688 This upmarket café in the Museu de Arte Moderna (see p147) serves an excellent lunchtime buffet consisting of light, healthy Mediterranean-inspired dishes and salads. The dining area is a bright, elongated room with its outer wall made almost entirely of glass. Excellent coffee is served.

IBIRAPUERA PARK & AROUND JAM Warehouse

Rua Lopes Neto 308, Itaim Tel (011) 3079 4259 JAM is an acronym for Japanese food, art, and music, all of which are presented in a tastefully designed, modern space. The food is classical Japanese, the art contemporary Brazilian, and the music ranges from samba rock to bossa nova and jazz. The bar is a great spot for pre-dinner cocktails, and the crowd usually young and fashionable.

IBIRAPUERA PARK & AROUND 348 Parilla Porteña

Rua Comendador Miguel Calfat 348, Vila Olímpia Tel (011) 3849 0348 Owned and run by Argentinian Eduardo Santaller, this restaurant is said to serve better cuts than are available in Buenos Aires, and they come with all the traditional Argentinian acoutrements, right down to the chimichurri sauce. The wine list boasts some of the finest Argentinian reds.

IBIRAPUERA PARK & AROUND Kosushi

Rua Viradouro 139, Itaim Bibi Tel (011) 3167 7272 Kosushi is one of a string of new restaurants in the Itaim neighborhood where the dining space is as important as the food. The city’s young and rich flock here to eat at the sparse designer tables offset against an enormous backdrop of light wood and white stone. The food is classical Japanese and is renowned for its sushi and sashimi.

IBIRAPUERA PARK & AROUND Le Coq Hardy

Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 461, Itaim Bibi Tel (011) 3079 3344 With the closure of Café Antique, Le Coq Hardy has established itself as the best fine-dining French restaurant in São Paulo. The dining room is formal and resplendent in white. As ever with Brazilian-run French restaurants, there are plenty of Italian options on the menu, alongside dishes like lamb Provençale and superior foie gras.

LIBERDADE Kinoshita

Rua da Glória 168, Liberdade Tel (011) 3241 3586

Map 1 C4

One of the pioneer Japanese fusion restaurants in São Paulo, Kinoshita has a convivial atomsphere, with a long bar sitting opposite low Japanese tables with room for up to four diners. Owner and chef Tsuyoshi Murakami has traveled extensively to introduce flavors from other regions of the world. Service is efficient and attentive.

LIBERDADE Sushi Yassu

Rua Tómas Gonzaga 98, Liberdade Tel (011) 3288 2966

Map 1 C4

One of the most traditional Japanese restaurants in Liberdade is known to connoisseurs for its excellent sushi and sashimi. For the more adventurous diner, there is exotic eel sautéed with soy sauce and sake. Dining is at one of the handful of tables, at the long sushi bar, or in private booths.

THE NEW CENTER Vicolo Nostro

Rua Jataituba 29, Brooklin Tel (011) 5561 5287 This expansive restaurant has a series of different rooms and outdoor areas, each of which attempts to bring a taste of Tuscany, Sicily, and Sardinia to the concrete that dominates the area. The menu is as large as the restaurant and is inspired by regional Italian home cooking.

THE NEW CENTER Govinda

Av Roque Petroni Júnior 1089 Tel (011) 5092 4816 This is an upmarket restaurant decorated with Indian art and with a large bar area beloved of cigar smokers. The menu is excellent, with naan (Indian bread) and a series of chutneys. The curries, although tasty, are underspiced in deference to the European palate. Key to Price Guide see p394 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

PINHEIROS Mani

Rua Joaquim Antunes 210 Tel (011) 3085 4148

Map 3 B3

The latest star on São Paulo’s dining scene is owned by a famous television actress and a Formula 1 driver. The atmosphere is rustic chic, with tables positioned for people-watching. The food, from two former Michelin-starred chefs, is a light, healthy fusion of Mediterranean techniques and Brazilian ingredients.

SÃO PAULO STATE ILHABELA Viana

Av Leonardo Reale 1560, Praia de Viana Tel (012) 3896 1089 The best seafood restaurant on the island is tucked away north of the main town of Ilhabela on Viana Beach. It is celebrated for its fresh fish, grilled with heart of palm, capers, and mushroom, and its red crab with mango risotto. Open weekends only outside the summer months.

SANTOS Bolsa e Café do Museu

Rua XV de Novembro 95, Centro Tel (013) 3219 5585 This little café within Museu do Café (see pp168–9) in São Paulo state serves one of the best cups of coffee in the country. Patrons can choose their own beans or blend, and there is a small menu of indulgent sweet and savory snacks and pastries. The café has Internet access for customers.

SANTOS Pier One

Av Almirante Saldanha de Gama s/n, Ponta da Praia Tel (013) 3261 6121 This seafood restaurant sits over the water at the end of the peninsula where Santos lies. It is most popular for sunset caipirinha cocktails or dinners. A popular choice is the meca santista, a filet of fish served with manioc and banana and accompanied by heart of palm risotto.

SÃO SEBASTIÃO Acqua

Estrada de Camburi 2000, Camburi Tel (012) 3865 2388 This newly opened restaurant offers the most spectacular view of the entire Brazilian coast out over the forest, the Atlantic, and the broad crescent of Camburí beach. The menu combines light seafood with wood-fired pizzas and pasta dishes, and the wine list is respectable.

SÃO SEBASTIÃO Manacá

Rua de Manacá, Camburizinho Tel (012) 3865 1566 A boardwalk cuts through the rainforest behind the beach at Camburi, in southern São Sebastião, province to reveal a little moonlit glade furnished with tables filled with some of the state’s most beautiful beachgoers. The menu changes with the season and focuses on seafood. The spiced fish steak wrapped in banana leaf is popular.

UBATUBA Solar das Águas Cantantes

Estrada Saco da Ribeira s/n, Praia do Lázaro Tel (012) 3842 0288 This hotel restaurant sits on Praia do Lázaro, one of the prettiest beaches in Ubatuba province, divided by a forested promontory of land. The hotel, like the beach, is popular with families and the restaurant is celebrated for its light moquecas (seafood stews made with coconut milk) and filet of badejo with squid.

BAHIA CACHOEIRA Beira Rio

Rua Paulo Filho 19, Centro Tel (075) 3425 5050 This small restaurant overlooking the river Paraguaçu and the town of São Félix serves up excellent lunches. The menu includes chicken stew, fish moqueca, and vatapá (fish stew) served with rice and farofa (a manioc flour sautéed in butter).

ILHÉUS Bar Vesuvio

Praça Dom Eduardo, Centro Tel (073) 3634 4724 Facing the architecturally marvelous Catedral Basílica San Marino, and made famous by noted writer Jorge Amado (see p31) in his works of fiction, this atmospheric but expensive Swiss-owned restaurant is an ideal place to enjoy a glass of beer and some outstanding Arabic food at the outdoor tables.

ILHÉUS Marostica

Av 2 de Julho 966 Tel (073) 3634 5691 Located in the historic center of the town, this cozy, no-fuss restaurant offers excellent Italian dining. The kitchen prepares delicious pastas with classic sauces, and stuffed pastas such as ravioli and lasagnes. A climatized cellar displays more than 50 different labels.

ITACARÉ Casa Sapucaia

Rua Londônio Almeida 84 Tel (073) 3251 3091 Housed in a charming old colonial house with a beautiful garden in front that is candlelit at night, this cozy restaurant offers casual dining. The wide-ranging menu leans towards Mediterranean cuisine. Try the sumptuous king prawns caramelized with ginger.

ITACARÉ Dedo de Moça