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BRENDA BRlGHTMORE
B RE
DA B R I G H TMORE
boot.s . Inc.
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Brenda Brightmore
First published in North Ame...
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BRENDA BRlGHTMORE
B RE
DA B R I G H TMORE
boot.s . Inc.
()();I
Brenda Brightmore
First published in North America in 2005 by KP Books
boot.s
~
~
Ou r toll-free number to place an order or obtain a free catalog is (BOO) 258-0929. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced or tra nsmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording. or ,my information storilge and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages in a critical article or review to be printed in a magazine or news paper, or electronically transmitted on radio, television, or the Internet. Library of Congress Catalog Number: 2()(H 105217 ISBN: 0-87349·871 -2 Designed and edited by David Portoous Editions Printed in Singapore by Star Standard
Pre face
7
Making th e Dolls
8
Calico Dolls Amy and Andrew
12
Cassie Ma rie
28
Ruth Anne
42
Covered NeedIesculpture Dolls Dav id
54 58
Susan Ginge r
66
Pure Needlesculpture Dolls Thomas and friends
76 78
70
Po ppy Melanie an d friends
102
Suppliers Acknowledgements
127
114
128
have been making cloth dolls fo r longer than I care to remember. I first started making dolls as Cl hobby when I was a chi ld, then later for my two daughters and now for my granddaughter, Amy. From the beginning, the dolls were all my own work and ideas, constructed us ing the tried and tested method of try and try again until it looked right. If ever [ used magazine or commercial patterns [ felt compelled to paint my own fa ces on the finished dolls to personalise them. The dolls I make vary from cute babies to demure little girls a nd cheeky young boys. 1 am totally sel f-taught, and I use a variety of materials in the construction of the dolls and their clothes. [ often spend a lot of my time planning, researchi ng and sourcing the different fabrics I use. My favourite part of doll maki ng is forming the heads and pa inti ng the faces. It is at this point that you begin to see the d oll 's individu al character a nd personality shining through. The dolls I create range in size from tiny 5cm (2in) up to a 56cm (22in) Flapper doll, Poppy. In 1995 [ was accepted as a member of the British Doll Artists Association, and since that time my doll s have found a \vorld wide aud ience.
I
BreJl(la Brigfltmore
7
material first to soften it and remove some of the seeds. Calico looks attractive in its natural state, but it is easy to tint or dye it if you prefer. The tiniest amount of tangerine powder dye - no more than one-eighth of a teaspoon - is enough to dye 1 metre (I yard) a delicate flesh pink. Tans and browns need a more concentrated solution, so experiment with leftover bits. Covered needlesculpture dolls need a s tretchy 'skin' covering. Cotton stockinette is perfect: it clings to the shape of the base with no wrinkles, takes clear-drying tacky glue well, and its smooth surface is wonderful to paint on. Stretchy Lycra fabrics are available, too, but because Lycra is a man made fabric it does not cling like stockinette and may need morc stitches to hold it in place. T-shirt cotton c.1I1 also be used with care. Needlesculpture dolls require a knit fabric with some stretch across the width. Most importantly, it must not run when stretched. The two fabrics I now use, Windsor Ponte and Windsor Comfort, arc perfect for my patterns. You can, of course, use other fabrics if you wish. I made my first few necdlesculpture dolls many years ago from a brushed nylon sheet [ had bought from a jumble s.1Ic. Dressing-gown \'clour and T-shirt cotton also work well. Cotton s tockinette is, however, far too stretchy for ncedlesclllpture. The type of fabric used for the clothes is given on each pattern. In general, use thin fabrics with s mall patterns. American cotton prints of the type sold for patchwork and quilting are lovely for doll clothes and can be purchased in sma ll quantities. Always buy the best qua lity felt you can find. If it is very thin, back it with iron-on interfacing first. Fur fabric. which is lIsed for many of the wigs, is available in different lengths and textures. The relevant pattern pieces are marked with arrows shOWing the direction of the pile. Draw around the patterns on the back of the fur fabriC, and then use s mall, sharp scissors to cut out only the backing, ncver the pile. Wigs made from mohair roving or purchased curly hair are not suitable for play dolls, which get a lot of wear and tear, but they can be used for dolls that older children keep for display or for adult collectors' dolls.
efore you make any of the dolls in th is book, please read the following notes carefully.
B
Patte rns and templates None of the patterns or templates in this book has to be enlarged or reduced. and most of them can be traced
stra ight from the page. Sometimes only half the pattern of some of the larger pieces is shown. but these pieces are clearly marked ' place on the fold', indicating that the straight edge of the pattern should be placed against the folded edge of the fabric. In addition, simple ohlongs - used for skirts and cuffs, for example - are not shown full size, but the measurements are given. Make accurate card copies of all the pattern pieces. Always make them full size, even when only half the pattern is shown, because it will make placing and cutti ng Qui easier. Transfer all marks and instructions onto the card templates, and punch small holes where indicated for the placement of joint holes, openings and darts. Remember to write the name of the doll on the pieces of card so that you can identify them eaSily. Most pieces have a seam allowance of 5mm ()(in), which, conveniently, is the width of the presser foot on many types of sewing machine. A few of the pattern pieces are marked ' template', and these have no seam allowance. These are usually items - such as hand s or small collars - for which it is easier to draw around the card template and then machine directly on the line and cut out after sewing.
Fabrics No actual measurements for the amounts of fab ric required are given. Fabric widths vary considerably, and many people will make more than one doll anyway. Only a very large doll will require more than 1 metre (I yard) of fabric. At least two of the calico (muslin) dolls in this book can be cut from 70cm (27in) of fabric, and with carefu l cutting SOcm (20in) of Windsor Ponte or Comfort will make two needlesculpture baby dolls. If you are buying some expensive fabric for a special project, layout the card templates, taking into account the pieces that w ill have to be duplicated, and work out exactly how much you will need. The calico (muslin) dolls are made from plain, unbleached fabric, which is available in a range of qualities from most fabric shops. I usually wash and iron the
Cutting out If a pattern piece has ' lengthwise of fabric' arrows on it, make sure the arrows are parallel with the selvage. If a 8
MAKING
THE
pattern piece has 'maximum stretch' arrows, test the fabric first, then lay the pattern accordingly. This is essential when you are using stockinette and all needlesculpture fabrics. Remember, too, that felt stretches more in one direction than the other, so lay all the pattern pieces in the same direction. Also, when you are cutting a fabric with a nap or one-way design, pattern pieces must all be laid the same way. When a pattern piece is marked 'cut 2' or cut a pair' trace around the template and cut from a double layer of fabric laid with the right s ides facing. When a pattern pil"Ce is marked 'cut I' trace around it and cut from a single layer of fabric. When a piece needs to be cut twice - as with legs and arms - it will be marked ' cut 4' or 'cut 2 pairs'. Tr,1ce the first piece and the n flip over the pattern and trace the second onc in reverse to avoid mistakes on patterns where darts or joint holes are required on one side of a piece. Pin all the traced s hapes before cutting out to avoid slipping. Cut out right on the traced line - small pieces can 'grow' considerably if you are not careful. Mark at! darts, dots and openi ngs on the wrong side of the cut pieces and all lop-stitching lines and {.lee guides on the nght sides. Air-vanishing or water-erasable markers MC available for dolt-making. I always use a sharp ordinary lead pencil for tracing around patterns and for marking face guides. Draw lightly for face guides so that you can erase any inaccuracies.
DOllS
/
/ Use ladder-stitch for invisibly dosing openings in seams and for attaching heads and limbs. with a machine zigzag stitch (or use a serger). When yOll finish necklines with a bias strip sew the strip to the neck line with R.5. facing, using a narrow seam allowance. Press the strip to the inside of the neckline, turn in a narrow hem and stitch in place to cover the seam. In some cases hems can be made with fu sible webbing instead of sewing. If you do not want to altempt tiny buttonholes use snap fasteners with decorative buttons on the outside. Filling Always use a good quality white toy fill ing. You will find severa l types and qualities available. The most expensive is a soft, silky fitting, which is not necessarily the best one for dolls. I prefer a s lightly coarser material, which s tays in place better.
Transferring face gu ides to fabric Trace the pattern of the ' head front' or 'head centre' with the face guide onto a sheet of paper. Lay the cut fabric piece over the paper pattern with both right sides up. Pin the fabric to the paper. Use adhesive lape or BluTack to attach the paper to a window, so that the light from behind wi ll enable you to trace the face easily. Tr;:ce only the main guidelines - you can add eyelashes and other details later.
Specia l eq uipment In addition to a basic sewing kit - small and large scissors, pins and needles and threads in appropriate colou rs - yOll will also need some specia l equipment. Stuffing lools are a matter of personal preference, and you will probably need several. My favourites for many years were a long, thin screwdriver with a notch filed in the centre of the end of the blade, a wooden chopstiCk with a similar notch and a barbecue skewer. Now I use two of Barbara Willis's marvellous stuffing forks. To make the needlesculpture dolls you will need ballpoint machine needles and extra long doll-making needles. You will also find cotion darners useful. Use strong thread to attach limbs and to d ose openings. In addition, you will need white tacky glue and fray- check. You will need a hot-glue gun for some of the dolls.
Sewing Most of the sewing can be done by machine using a small stitch. I have rarely found it necessary to sew around a part twice - burst seams are usually the result of careless stuffing rather than weak sewing. You might, however, want ID double-sew over stress points on the needlesculpture dolls. Stay-stitching means working a row of machine stitching on a single layer of fabric, and it is used to prevent the fab ric from fraying or st retching or sometimes to mark a seam allowance. ladder-stitch is used for invisibly dosing openings in St'ams and to attach heads and limbs. When you are making the clothes neaten the seam allowances and any other raw edges by o\'ersewing
Abbreviations R.S. right side of fabric W.s. wrong s ide of fabric
9
/111/( '1'11111'
111111('1"1'111('111
Do not dilute the paint or it may bleed into the fabric. Never allow acrylic paint to dry on your brushes or they will be ruined. As a rule, the younger the child, the lower the eyes arc placed on the face. The most common mistake is to place the eyes too high, but remember that a great deal of the upper head will be co\'ered when the doll has hair. Another common mistake i" to make the eyes too big. so when you are cutting out eye templates cut inside the drawn line or the eyes will 'grow' a little every time you trace around them.
- 2 paintbrushes suitable for acrylic paints, a size 0 or I and a very fine onc, size 00 or 000 - 2 permanent marker pens, black and brown with very fine tips, si.te 01 - Acrylic fabri c paints, white, black and blue (or any other eye colour) - Colour crayon pencils, clear red for lips and brown for shading - Cosmetic blusher
U~ing contr'l~ting
coloured thread, divide the face into four. T.lke the vertical thread from the crown to under the chin. Look ~traight at the face from the front and place the horizont.l! th read halfway down. t
2 Practise drawing eye "h.lpes on a <.crap of thin card, cut them out and tfV them on the doll',> face until vou find the <;hape and ~i/.e you think are most appropriate'. 3 Fold a pil'Ce of <;crap paper in half, trace your chosen eye "hape on one side and cut it out through both thicknesS(><;. You now have a pair of paper eyc<;, which C.1I1 be moved about on the doll's face until you are "'ltisfied with the position. Don't forget to mark the right sides to avoid confusion. " For a child doll the eyes are placed ju"t below the horizon!,ll line, ,1bout an eye's width .11Mfl. Draw around them lightly with a "harp pencil. 5 Divide Ihe bottom half of the face with a second horizontal thread. The no;;e is drawn abo\"c thi-. line, .1nd the centre mouth line b about hillfway between this lille and the chill.
10
PAI'ITIt\G
1 Remove the guide threads and redraw the features with the brown marker.
FACE S
1 Paint the iris in your chosen colour, and while the paint is still wet blend in a little white paint at one side of each iris. Allow to dry.
2 Paint the whole of the eye area white. It may net.>d two mats. When the paint is completely dry, droll\' in the iris, using a small washer or button as a template. The iris should always touch the top or bottom eye lines - try to imagine a circle rucked under the eyelid.
2 Paint the pupils black. Ll'ilVe to dry.
3 Draw the pupil. 1 Use the black marker to draw fine radiating lines around the pupil. 2 Draw the eyelid crea<;e with the brown marker. 3 Draw a (l'w fine ('yl'lashes with the brown marker. 4 Colour the mouth with thl' red crayOI1 pencil. Colour the cheeks very gently with co.;met ic blu.;her, applying it on a sma ll piece of stuffing. S Dip thl' he.ld of a straight pin in white polint and dot a white highlight w ide each pupil, either both left or both right. Stroke a little white paint on the tip of the nose ,md on the bottom lip. 6 Shade under thl' eyebrow.. and the ..,ides of the nose \'ery lightly with the brown crayon ~ncil.
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he calico girl doll, Amy, stands 39cm (15~in ) high and has the same endearing features as her cousin Andrew but easy-ta-style hair. Her cotton s ummer dress, bar-strap shoes and large hair ribbon give her a quaint 19505 look. Andrew, the 39cm (15Xin ) calico boy doll, has a bright-eyed, sweet painted face and a smart little outfit, but his fur fabric hair will not stay in pl ace, no matter how often his mother brushes it.
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- Unbleachcd or tinted ca lico
Pants Thin stockinette or T·shirt fabric; narrow elastic; narrow lace trim (for Amy's pants )
- Set of 3cm (1 ,in) plas tic joints (one set for each doll)
Underslip Cotton or polycotton fabric; broderie anglaise trim, 15mm (Uin) wide; small button
- Fur fabric for the w igs: long (for Amy) and shorter or roughcr, animal-type (for Andrew)
Dress Cotton or polycotton print fabric; plain contrast fabric fo r collar and cuffs; snap fa steners; decorative buttons
- Wh ite polyester toy filling
Trousers Felt or thin wool cloth; strong snap fastener Sh irt Cotton or polycotton small check fabric; snap fasteners; decorative buttons
- Stuffing sticks - Fray-check - Fabric paints, permanent markers, colour pencils (sce page 10)
Necktie Pla in cotton; narrow elas tic Socks Pair of ch ild's socks, w hite (for Amy), grey or f,1wn (for Andrew)
- Thin card to make templates of pattern pieces
Shoes Felt, with contrasting colour for the soles; strong cardboard; s nap fas teners; decorativc buttons (for Amy's shoes); embroidery thread (for Andrew's shoes)
- Basic sewing kit, including strong thread and threads 10 match all fahric<. (including those for the clothes) • Hair ribbon
Read MIlkillg tile Dolls on pages 8-11 before you begin.
Re-f{'ad the guidelines on page 8 before you cut fur fabric. Note Ihe different CUlling lines for Amy and Andrew. Face edge and nape are marked on the pattern piere-.. Sew the dMls al the crown of each piece. With R.5. faci ng. sew the wig front to the wig back. Turn R.5. out. Brush well to release an y fur tr.1pped in the <;cam. Place the wig on the doll and when you are s.1tisfied with the position, sew it in place. Trim with small, sharp
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1 Make.1 side 1"1rting.. brush the hair to the ~ ide and hold with a stitch.
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2 Trim level all round.
3 Sew ribbon to wig.
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1 Bru!:> h all the h.1ir
2 1'hc b.:rl. will
upwards and trim the ends. Trim and brush until the desired length is achieved.
rt.'quire extra trimming. Fur wigs may be set with hair-spray.
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1 5e1l' centre·front seam of
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3 Sew centre-b
2 Open out and finger pn.'Ss the scam. Stay-stitch the !leck edge. Lay body front aside.
4 Open out ,1nd finger press
the seam. Slay-stitch the neck edge. Lly body b
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3 Se", centre-front seams of legs and open out. St,lYstitch ankle edges of legs and feet.
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6 Sew feet 10 legs at ankle
7 With R.S. facing, sew
edges. Clip the seam allowance to centre dol.
centre-back seam of leg and foot.
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10 Wllh KS. facmg. SCI\' legs
finnly to within 2cm (}iin) of the tops. Align centre-back and centre·front seams and tack tops clo5L>d.
to lower edge of body front, leaving seam allowances fr('('
1\1 Allow Ihe legs to fall forward. With R5. facing. sew body back 10 body front, leaving open belw(,(,!1 dols for arm joinls.
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12 Turn body R.5. out. Slipslitch lower L>dgC of body closed. Do not ~tuff body yet.
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14 With RS. facing, sew the arms together in pairs, leaving open betw('('n the dots. Turn the arms R.S. out.
15 Stuff the hands softl y and top-sti tch the fingers. Insert the joints and stuff the .ums. Ladder·stitch the openings.
16 Joint the arms to the body. Tack the se.lm allowance of the neck to the inside. Stuff the body firmly and close the opening .
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• 17 On R.5. of head front,
trace the features lightly in pencil. Sew the chin dart.
18 Sew d.lrts in head sides. Stav-stitch both sides of he.ld centre between dots and all neck edges.
.
19 With R.5. facing. tack,.
20 Sew around ears, trim
then sew head sides to he.ld centre. Clip seam allowance to st.,)'-stitching at intervals 10 make fitting easier. Turn head RS. out.
seam closely and turn RS. out. Stuff lightly, turn in seam allowance and lopstitch.
23 Sew darts in wig front and wig back. With R.5. facing, sew wig front to wig b.1Ck. matching darts. Tum wig RS. out.
24 Bru<;h well to release any
R.s.
21 Stuff the head firmly and
22 Pin, then ladder-stitch the
evenly, shaping with your hands as you work,. and \\'ork a few cross threads across the neck opening. Slipstitch the cars in place.
head in place. Check the position of the features, erase and rror.lw them if necessary. Sec face painting (pages 10-11) to finish the face.
16
hair trappt.-'d in the seam. Follow the individu
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I P~nts. Tum the hem allowances on the leg openings to the in~ide i1nd hem with a zigzag stitch. Plain hem for Andrew; trim with nilrrow I.lce for Amy.
V
2 Stitch onc side seam.
3 Undersli p. With R.S. facing. '>Cw backs to front. Neaten both back edges.
Make il cilsing illong the Wilio;t edge, thread with elastic to fit the doll imd sew the ela~tic into the remaining '>Cam.
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6 Stitch the ..ide '>C,lm5. Sew trim to the hem. Sew centreback seam to dot. Turn R.5. out. Make a button ilnd loop fastening at bad.. neck.
7 Dress. With R.5. f,lcing.
sew front bodice 10 backs, open out and press seams.
8 Sew the collars together in paiN, clip CUI"\'es, lurn R.5. oul and press. Tack collars together at centre front.
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t- •• ; With R.5. f,lcing. sew facing 10 slip al neck edge and annholes. Clip corners and cur;es. Tum R.5. out by gmtly easing Ihe backs through the facings at the shoulders.
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11 Galher the slr.light edges
12 Gather the lop edges of
the raw edges. Slipstitch neatly on the inside of the neckline. Press the back facing,> to the inside.
of the slccves 10 fit the cuffs. With R.S. facing. .;ew cuffs to ~)ee\·es.
the sleeves to fit the annholes. With R.S. facing. sew the ,,)ee\'es in place.
17
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. 13 Sew the side seams of the bodice and sleeves. Finish the cuffs.
14 Gather the skirt to fit the
15 Fold the tiC belts In half
waist of the dress. Sew the skirt in place.
lengthwise, stitch, turn and press. Sew belts to bodice front.
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17 Trousers. With RS facing. sew the centre-back seam and centre-front seam to dot.
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Hem the trousers. Turn R.S. out.
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18 Make pleats in the back
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22 Shirt. With R.5. facing. sew the back to the fronts. Neaten front edges.
collar. Tum R.5. out, press and tack the open edge closed.
18
16 Turn up and sew 11 2cm ('iin) hem on the dress. Sew "nap fasteners and decorative buttons to back opening.
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19 Press the left-front facing to the inside and top-stitch.
waist. Tack in place.
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20 With R.5. facing. sew the waistband in plilce, press to the inside and slipstitch in place. Sew 11 snap fastener to the waistband.
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24 With R.5. facing and centre backs matching. sew colla r to shi rt. Using the bias stri p, finish the collar as for d"",.
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25 Galher the lOp edges of sJe.en.'S between dots. p~~ hem allowance of ~I~\·es to
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27 Sew the ~Ide seams of .. hirt and ~lec\·cs.
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28 Hem the shirt and ,,1('Cve<;. Turn R.5. out. Sew .. nap fastener" and d('Corative bu tt ons in place.
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R.5. Z9 Necktie. Pres~ illl the Sl'Jm allOIl'.mccs to the \Vs. and rn:.mstitch neatlv in pl~Cl'. Turn 2cm O,in) o\er at the top .md stitch down to form a loop for the eLa~tic. Make a fabe knot and ~I itch in place.
30 Socks . Cui two o;ocks fro m the ch ild's o;ocks, using the top as the open edge. Sew the bad, '>C.lm with a stretch stitch. Turn R.5. out.
31 Am y's sh oes. With one .. hoe inner and one .. hoe outer facing, sew c('ntrefronl and centre·bad. seam~.
•
3J Gather all round the felt
soW cover close 10 the edge, piaCl' the serond cardbo.1Td sole inside and p u ll up gathers tightly. Ll d d e rstitch the covered sole in
34 A n drew 's s h oes. With R.S. f,lcing, c;ew cenlre·front
•
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35 \Yilh RS. f.lcing, <,Cw centre-back seam. Turn RS. out. Fin ish shoe ;,ole a .. for Amy' .. shoc.
-.('am to dot. Open out and press facings 10 Ihe inside. Sew the tongue in place.
p"". 19
32 Turn shoe KS. out. Ga ther all round close to lower edge. Insert cardboard ~Ie and pull up g.lther<. ju.,t enough to hold in pl.1CC. Work a few stitche-:. o\'er the sole.
36 Lace the .. hoc with embroidery thr"t.'ad.
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aSSie Marie is a 42cm (16}S'in) calico doll \v ith
an old -fa shioned rag-doll look and a butterwouldn' t-melt-in-my-mouth expression. She will make a perfect gift for doll-lovers of all ages. The little heart-shaped pocket matches the motif on the bodice of her p inafore.
29
•
•
CA
. / /tI/('l'i{//r
M
A R
rE
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{fill! ''rf11tjJlllt'lll
• Unbleached or tinted calico - Striped, non-stretch cotton (to represcnt stockings)
Underclothes While or cream-coloured cotton or polycotton; broderie
• Felt (for the boots); felt in a contrasting colour (for the
Dress -\5 x l1-km (18 x 45il1) cotton print fabric; snap fa steners Pin afo re and hat brim 60 x 60cm (24 x 24in) fell; snap fasleners or small buttons Hat crown 30 '( 30cm (12 xl2in ) felt (there will be enough left O\'er 10 make a pair of boots)
soles)
- Mohair or other fluffy knitting yarn - \
-Tacky glue - Cotton tape - Basic sewing kit, induding strong thread, embroidery threads and threads 10 match all fabrics (including those for the clothes) Read Making thl! Dolls on pages 8-11 before you begin.
The heart-shaped pocket, which matches the motif on Cassie's pinafore bodice. Both are made by the 5ew-.lnd-cut method.
Cassie's neilt little boots are an integr.ll pilrt of her legs, and arc much easier to make than they look.
30
CA551E
M ARIE
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l l\'ith R.S. faci ng. se\\' centre-front seam of body front. '
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2 Open out, finger press seilrn and s tily-stitch neck edge. Lay body front aside,
3 With R.5. facing. sew centre-b.Kk SCilm of body back, leaving open betwccn dots, Sew hip darts.
" Open out body back and stily-stitch neck edge. Lay body back aside.
7 Sew centre·back seam of leg and boot.
8 Turn legs R.S. out gather lo\\'er edges of boots and insert ca rdboard soles.
H. S.
"1.$ .
5 With R.5. facing. sew cmtre-front seams of boots.
6 Open out boots and sew to legs at ilnkle edges.
tJws.
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' Pull up the gathers just
enough to hold the inner 50ks in place. Wo rk a few cross threads o\'er the soles.
10 Gather all round the felt sole covers, insert the second pair of cardboard soles and pull up the gilthers to co\'er.
31
"
.
ifS
11 Stuff the boots and legs
12 Fold boot collars in half
to within 2cm e,in) of the to ps. Line up centre back and front. Tack tops closed and ladder·stitch soles in place.
lengthwise and sew the two short s ides. Trim the corners, turn R.5. out and tack the tops closed.
• CASS[E
MARIE
Q
b 13 Stitch the boot collars in place. Embroider the laces in contrasting thread.
14 Sew legs to body front leaving the 5eilm allowance free at both sides. After stitching let the legs f.. 1l forward.
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15 With KS. facing. sew body back to body front at both sides. Turn the body RS. out.
,
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b 11 Trace the features on the head fron t. Sew the forehead and chin dMtS.
16 Slipstitch lower cdgeof body and stuff the body through back opening. Close the seam.
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18 Slily-stitch both sides of
19 With RS. facing. tack, then sew the head gusset to the head front, matching the notches. Stay-stitch the neck edge.
the head gusset and dip the curved edges to the stay. stitching.
20 Sew the dart in the head
back. Stily-stitch the neck edge. With R.S. filcing. sew the heild b.lck to the head gusset, matching dots and notches.
_ _ _ black
~~
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21 Turn head RS. ou t. Stuff firmly. Check that the features are level; if n~ary erase and adjust them.
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white
22 Using permanent markers and paint, colour the f
23 Turn in the seam allowance on the neck edge of the body. Pin the head in place. Ladder-stitch the he,ld to the body.
32
24 Cut about 60 lengths of
yarn, each 20cm (Sin) long. Do this by winding the yam around a piece of strong cardbo..lrd.
CASSII::
25 Cut a pie(;l' of tilpe IOcm Hin) long. lay thl' strands of )'am evenly across the tape, leal'ing Icm (about ~in) of t.lpe free at l'ach l'nd. Ma(hine through the centre.
26 Sew or hot-glue the tilpt' to the back of the head, folding under the surplus tape at each end.
..
, 29 5litch the side hair to the head. Plait each side evenly.
'
MARIE
27 Smear the sides of the
28 CuI about 70 "trands of
head with t.lcky glue. Drill\' the ya rn to each side of the head and backstitch in plilce. Sme,lr the cut ends with glue.
yil rn, eilch 45cm (18in) long, and stitch to tape 12cm (about Sin) long. Allach to head, as for back, just covering the foreheild dart.
R. S .
,,
30 With R.5. f.King. sew ,lfIns together, leaving open betwccn the dot~. Clip to stitching .11 thumb. Turn arm" R.5. out.
31 Stuff the hands softly and
32 Sew the shoulder tab to
top·stitch the fingers. Stuff lower arm firmly and top~titch across elbows. Stu ff the upper arm softly. Do not stu ff the tab. Close the opening.
the undl'rarm area. When the arm h.lngo: the lab will nolo:how.
•
IN.S. "J .
••••
•
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I Bloomers. Trim the hems cl the legs with broderie anglaise. With R.S. f.leing. srI'.' centre· front seam.
2 Open out, make a casing illong the waist edge. Thread with elastic to fit the doll.
3 Sew the centre-b.lck seam, securing the elastic in the seam.
33
4 Sew Ihe crotch seilm. Tum R.S. out.
CAS!:>tE
M ARt E
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5 Petticoat. Trim onc long edge with broderie anglaise. Make a casing along the waist edge (Ind thrc(ld with elastic.
6 With R.5. facing. sew the centre-back seam. securing the elastic in the seam.
w.S.
/
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7 Dress. Sew the collars
8 With R.S. f.lcing.. sew
together in pairs and clip the cun'~ to stitching. Turn R.5. out, pro..,!> and tack openings.
backs to front. Press seams (Ind open out. Sew collars to neck edge, m.ltching centre fronts.
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w. S. 9 Neate n neck edge with bias s trip.
11 With R.S. facing and matching the dots 10 the shou lder seams, sew the slee\'cs in pl.lee.
10 Press the hem allowance on slccvcs to the \'\ '.s. Gather the top edges between the dots to fit the armholes.
12 With R.S. facing. sew sleeve and side seams.
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:5 13 Press the hem allowance of the ski rt to the WS. Gather the waist edge to fit the waist edge of the bodice.
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15 With R.S. facing. sew the centT\.... b.,lck ~am of skirt IOcm (4in) from the hem. Sew snap fasteners 10 bodice. Hem skirl and sleeves.
14 With RS. f.long. sew the ... kirt to the bodice.
34
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16 Pinafore. To make the pocket and molif, place a scrap of fe lt on a scrap of dress f.lbric, R.5. facing. Trace the heart template on one side, machine stitch on the traced line.
CASSIE
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MARIE
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. •
19 With R.5. {" seams. Stay-stitch neck and armhole edges. Clip scam 10 -;ti tching.
20 Sew ~ide seams of bodice. Turn KS. out, tack the clippo..>d <;earn allowance of the neck and armhole edges to W.S. Top-stitch on R.5.
22 Hal. With R.S. facing. .;;ew the two ~ide d.1Tb in the hat crown. Sew the front doUl, b.ld. dart i'lnd centrebi'lck seam all in onc process. Turn R.5. out and press.
23 \,vith R.S. facing. sew hat brims logether along the outer roges. Clip the CUT\'('<;, turn R.5. out and pres~.
24 Opt'n out and, with KS. facing. '>Cw centre-back seam of both brims. Press seam n.ll. Tack inner edges of brims together.
26 Press the ')earn 10 the in.,ide.
27 Top-~titch the h.lt brim. 111e crown may need .1 [illle ~hl ffing to give it shape.
28 The hat, which ~hou[d be very close filling. should be pulled well down on the doll's head.
18 Mark the pocket po"ilion on Ihe right·hand ~ide of the .. kiTI, 7cm (2 .in) up from lo\\'er edge and 7cm (2 .in) from the centrl' front. Sew pocket in place, Illi'ltching *. Sew Ihe motif 10 bodice front.
.'
/<::::J w.s. 21 Gather Ihe ~kirt wai,,1 10 61th!! bodice. With R.5. facing. sc\\' skirt in place. Se\, ~ndP fasleners 10 bodice back. Press hem 10 1\5. and lop-stitch on R.5.
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25 With inner side of brim facing R.5. of crown, sew thrbrim in place, millching the centre·b.lck seam~.
35
CASSlE
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41
ittle Ruth Anne is 35cm (14in) high and as bright as the buttons on her winter hat and mitte ns. Underneath her felt coat she wears a tartan-skirted dress w ith a T-shirt top. I wonder what she has in her shoulde r bag?
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R L T 11
. Ilrr/('/'I(r/.r ((lIr! ('111,/,11/( '11/ - Unbleached or tinted cal ico - 20)( 20cm (8 x 8in) long fur fabri c - White polyester toy filling - Stuffing sticks - Thin card to make templates of pallern pieces - Black and brown permanent markers with fine tips; wh ite craft paint; soft coral pink crayon pencil - Basic sewing kit, including strong thread and threads to match all fabri cs (including those for the clothes)
Knickers and T-shirt top White or crea m-coloured T·~hirt collon; narrow elastic; 3 snap fasteners Dress s kirt 10'0: 60cm (~x 2~in ) thin tartan or checked cotton Coa l 60)( 60cm (24 x 2~ in) fe lt; 3 snap f,lsteners; 3 decorative buttons; top-stitching th read in a contrasting colour Hat, scarf and mittens 22)( 114cm (8;{ x 45in) fleece fJbnc with a little s tretch onc way; about 10 small, interesting buttons - e.g., hearts, flowers and other shapes Shoes and s houlder bag 30 x 30cm (12)( 12in) felt in contrasting colour to the coat; s mall piece of cotton fabric to line the shoes; beige felt and strong cardboard (for the soles); 2 small shoe buttons; button for the bag Stockings Pair of white or crea m-coloured child's socks
Read Making till! Dolls on pages S-ll before you begin.
Making the doll Follow the instructions for Amy and Andrew (sce pages 14- 17), but with the following differences: 1. Ruth Anne's legs are cut 01' a fold and therefore have no centre-front sea m. 2. The arms are tab·style (like Cassie Made's) and not jointed. 3. The fu r fabric wig should be brushed and cut into a sim ple basin cut. Making the clothes Knickers - follow the instructions for Andrew's pants (without 1.1CC). For all other clothes follow the step-by-step instructions and diagrams on the following pages.
Collect a few interesting buttons and uS(' them to tri m Ruth Anne's mittens and scarf to match her hat.
44
R UTH
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'1 Stockings. Cut 2 s tockings from the child's socks, usi ng the tops as the open edge. Se\\' the back seams wi th a Sll'l'Ich-stitch. Turn R.5. o u \.
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2 Shoes. Sew the lining to the tops along the ankle ed ge~, trim se.1ms and cli p curves . Turn R.5. out and pJ\:." is.
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3 Open out and sew centre-
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'C 5 Cover the n>maining Cilrdboard soles in beige felt. Stitch soles to ~hoes. OI'erse\\' the stril?", adjust length to fit the doll, stitch tosk and sew on snap fastener and button.
and p ull up gilthers just enough to hold it in place. Work a few cross thread s over the wle.
6 T-shirt dress . With R.5. filcing, 1tCw backs to front .11 shoulders. Press centre-back facing s 10 W.5. Press seam a llowance on one long edge of neckbilnd to \VS.
7 With R.5. of neekb,lnd
facing w.s. o f T-shirt, sew neckband in place.
8 Fo ld neckband with R.5. fa ci ng. Sew acro:;s both ends at centre b,l(k.
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11 Turn up and sel\' a 2cm O.in) hem 011 onc long edge of the s kirt. Gather the remaining long edge to fit the waist of the T· .. hirt top without ~ trct chillg it. Sew the skirt to the top.
10 Hem the sleeves, sew the s ide seams and turn the T-shirt to p R.5. out. Do not hem.
45
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12 Sew the centre back of the sl..irt for -km (J -in) from the he m. Sew snap fasteners to the b.1Ck o pening. Turn the T-shirt dres~ R.5. out.
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15 With R.5. facing, ~\\ the C(M! fronts to the .,k~\'~, matching A- B, il., Ix-fore. Pres~ front filcing" 10 \V.S.
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19 M ittens. Hem thi' wrist
20 Scarf. Fold thc scarf ~trip
edges. Fold with RS. (ilcing, <;cw .....ams and clip to <;C,lm at thumb. Turn R.5. ou\. Sew a button to the b.1C!.. of each mitten, Icaving il long thre,ld.
lengthwise, ~w seam olnd turn R.5. out. Position St'am at centre back. Cut both end>:. into fring~. Using embroidery thread, gather ju.,t abo\'(~ fringes. Sew on button." leaving long thT('ad~.
23 CUllhe :.pilTC fabric at the lop into fringe", U"ing embroidery thread. !>cw a row of different button:. to the hilt brim, leil\'ing a few long thread~.
24 Bag. Fold bag with \V.s.
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22 Turn the hilt R.5. oul.
Gather lightly 5cm (2in) frOIll the top .. nd fasten off sc<:urely.
46
facing. U~ conlrasting thread to top-.,titch bag ilnd open flap. Fold .'>Irap IcngthwiSt' and top· ... titch '>Cam on R.5. Trim "Irilp ilnd '>Cw in piaCl'. Stuff IMg lightly. Fold owr flap ilnd '>Cw on button.
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Also cu t these straig ht pieces: Skirt 10 x 60cm (4 x 24 in )
----.4
Hot 22 x 29cm (9 x Ilin), maximu m stretch across 29cm ( l1 in) width; cut from fleece fabric
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Scarf 9 x SOcm (3.\fx 16in), max imum stretch across 9cm (3.\fin) width; ell! from fleece fabric
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Coa t neckband 5 x 20cm (2 x Bin)
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53
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A
porcelain doll artist sculpt.:; the original head in clay from which a mould i., made. Covered needlcsculpture dolls are sculpted in cloth, often usi ng several different weaves and textures to achieve the d(><;ircd
result. Each one is a true original as no moulds or masks arc made from them. The Head The contou rs of the face arc built by s titching or gluing pads of fabric and stuffing onto a stu ffed head base. The padded he.ld is then covered in a !>tretchy 'skin' and the features are painted. The face can be further enhanced by a little ne('d le modelling and shading. The most s uitable fabric for covering the head is cotton stockinette, which clings to the fabric underne.lth and is easy to glue and to paint. After painting it can be scaled with a clear matt sealer such as ' Mod Podge' if desired. Ginger's face has been sealed in thi,; way. If you arc adapt ing an existing pattern the head must always be made slightly smaller ID allow for the padd ing.
•
T he Body Calico bodies arc qui le suitable, {'specially if the calico is tinted to match the stockinette head. Bodies can be made of "tockinette too, but it mu.,t bt- .,tabilised first by backing with a woven iron-on interfacing; non-woven interfacings are not sui table a.., they tear at the o;eam~ during s tuffing becau<,c the machine needle ha'i perforated them during ~wing. Ginger's body b made from inlcrf,1cc-lined stockinette.
Hints and Tips Study the diagrams carefully bo:fore you begin. As you will ~, the features are made from little 'cu<;hions'. When you gather the circle<. of stockinette to make the cu .. hions use tiny gathering .. I itches and ke('p them as close to the edge as possible. Remember: before cuttin& tl1(.' most stretch of the fabric must go across the nOS<" piece. The nose needs to be .. tuffed very firmly. and the e.1sie!'.t way to do th i<; is to roll n piece of stuffing into a ~ mall ball and place it inside the gathered nose, then
blu."ted sli.ewH. ~in~~W'" W. S. out
••
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Before you begin, note the 'lengthwise of filbric' or 'milximum stretch' arrow~ on the p.1Itern piect.'. Cillico hilnds will be laid on the bias to !Hake turning ea<:ier. The h,md pilttern is usuallY.1 te!Hplilte. Cut it out cilrefullv in cil rd, tay it on tht> double filbric and draw round it lighll y with a (jnt> pink or tan mar\..er. Sew the hilnd right on Ihc lint>, u ..ing very small machine stitchC<', and <;ew the rest of the arm as us ual. tf the p.lt!crn h.1~ darts on the insid ..... of the wri~t, m.lke su re you h.1\"(' a right .1Ild a left .um and <;ew them now. Trim Ihc fabric around the finger.. c1()<;('ty, ~nipping into the V.shapes i>ctw('('n the fingers.
To turn the fingers right sidt> out YOll will n('Cd a hollow tube 'o uch a~ a hollow plll<.tic lollipop ~ tick, .1 length of tube from il ~pray detergcnt bottle or cven il pla~tic drinking str.lI" - ilnd a blunt .,tick, like a barbccue ~kewcr. Follow the diagram~ above. Aft ... r turning thc fingcrs, .,tuff them by twirling a wi~p of ~ tuffing around the pointed end of a barbt..>cue 'oke\,w .1nd pu~hing it right into the cnd of each finger. Twist thl:> ~ke\\er III th(' 0ppo"itc direction to rl!lea.<.e it. while holding the ~tuffing in place with rour Olhcr h.1nd. If the !>C'Cond and third fing('1"'; are joined, top ... titch behn.'('n them.
CO\' EREO
N EEOLESCULI' T URE
pull up the gathers tightly. Try to keep the triangular shape of the nose as you work. You will find this easier if you begin and end the gathers at the bridge (top) of the nose and pin that point in place before stitching it to the face, The checks and chi n r,eed 10 be s tuffed vcry softly. Pull up the gathering s titches pulled up just enough to hold the stuffing; if they are s tuffed too firmly they will have hard edges, which will show under the covering. Place and pin both cheeks to the head base before stitching to make sure they arc even. Stitch all round them with tiny
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up the heOld OlS for Ol
b.\,ic calico doll and s tuff firmly. Using contrasting thread, divide the face into quarters. Make a pair of cye It'mplatl'S from thin card, using the pattern provided on page 57.
ladder-stitches. You may need to go round twice to keep the edges soft and flat. Do not place the chin cushion too high. Remember the chin is al Ihe tip of Ihe face, so leave sufficient room for the mouth. There may be times when a particular doll needs a little padding on the fore head, too. The area hclween the nose and chin usually needs to be raised a little. Cut out shapes 10 fit from felt scraps and glue them in place. Lips may be cui fro m felt and glued in place, too. Often a pai nted mouth on the fin ished he,ld is all tha t is neress., ry.
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2 ['laCe the eye lemplalt.'S just below the central horizontal line, abo ut an eye's wid th apa rt. Oral\' around them with a ~harp pencil.
Sketch a small triangle just below the eyes; this is whe re the nO$C wi ll be sewn. Draw a s hort line at the mouth ~ition. Remo\'e the guide threads.
3 GOlthcr all round the nosc, keeping to the vcry edge. Stuff firml y and pull up the gathers fully. Sew the nose 10 the face with tiny ladders titches, keeping to the triangular shape. M,uk the
nostrils.
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4 NeedlC'-modcl the nostrils following the diagra ms.
6 Sew the pado; 10 the face, kl'Cping the Ixlges stretched as flilt as pos!'>ible.
5 Gather all round the cheeks and chin, k(.'c ping to the very edges, and pull up the gathers a little. Stuff the circles very softl y so that they do not leave hOlrd edges when scwn to the face. Cut out felt shapes 10 fill the area between the nose and chin. If wished, ill<;o cu t ou t felt lips.
55
Glue on the fell s hnpcs and tips. At this slage the face looks very strange - but don't worry.
COVERED
NEEDLESCULPTURE
r
,,
7 Thread a long needle with strong thread and secure the thread at the back of the head. Push the needle through to the outer corner of the right eye.
Return the needle almost at the same spot, pull on the thread just enough to indent the eye corner and repeat the stitch. VVork the inner corner of the eye in the same way. Repeat with the left eye.
8 Smea r t(lcky white craft glue over the nose and T"tO>triLs. Place the head cover centrally over the face, smooth fabric over nose without stretching. Push fabric into the nostrils, holding it in place with two straight pins until dry.
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10 Oversew the back se.lln
neatly and tightly gather the excess fabric at the neck.
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Trim the top edge and also gather tightly.
12 Make the ears from scraps of interface-lined stockinette and sew in place.
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the original templates. Indent the eye corners ,lS before. Mark the corners of
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Paint the eyes and mouth follow ing the instructions in the f.lee painting section (see pages 10--11).
13 The finished head with wig.
56
9 Gently stretch the head cover upwMds and to the centre back of the head. Do not overstretch the fabric. Trim excess fabric .,t the centre back.
the mouth and indent them as you did the eyes. Dimples in chin or cheeks are made the same way.
COVERED
NEEDlESCUlPTliRE
Pallerns for head and arm with separate fingers for covered needlesculpture dolls
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avid, the evacuee boy, s tands 39cm (15~in) tall. He represents the many children who, in the early 19405, were sent from the large towns and cities to the safety of the countryside for the duration of the war. Clutching his new gas mask in its ca rdboard box, he is trying to be very brave, but it is not easy because he doesn't know where he is goi ng or when he will see his mum and dad again.
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59
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I/(/Irl'/({/),
A V I D
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Pants Thin stockinette o r T-shirt fabric; narrow elastic Jacket and trousers Plain grcy flannel, thin wool tweed or similar; st rong snap fastener; 2 sma ll buttons Cap Felt; cotton for lining; small piece of iron-on interfacing Shi rt Plain cream-colou red or blue cotton; snap fasteners or decorative buttons Neckt ie Plain cotton; narrow elastic Socks Pair of fawn or grey child 's socks Shoes Felt or thin leather; felt in con trasting colour or leather (for soles); strong cardboard; embroidery th read Cas mask box Thin ca rd ; brown paper; about 40cm (16in) thin parcel string
• Flesh-coloured ca lico • Flesh-coloured stockinette - Scraps of flesh-coloured or white feh - Set of 3cm (I '/,in) plastic joints • Fur fabric (for the wig) - Thin card to make templates of pattern pieces - White polyester toy filling - Stuffing sticks • Fabric paints; permanent markers; colour penci ls (sce fa cc painting, pages 10-11) - White tacky craft glue - Basic sewing kit, including strong thread and threads to match all fabrics (including those for the clothes) - Buff·coloured luggage label
Read Mnk;IIg tilt Dolls on pages 8-11 before you begin.
Making th e doll Read through the points on covered needlesculpture and the instructions for making the head before you begin. Use the pattern for the body and legs of Amy and Andrew, the basic calico dolls, and make up the body and legs in exactly the s.1me way (sce page 15). You can also use Andrew's arms or the more realistic ones with separate fingers - both are jointed.
T he hair Use the pattem and instructions for Andrew's wig and hairstyle (see page 14). Mak ing the cl othes Make the pants, socks, shi rt and tie exactly as Andrew's. Make the trousers in the same way as Andrew's, but add lcm (about Min) to the leg length before cutting out. The shoes call be made from felt or leather; if you are using leather note the special instructions on page 62.
T he he.ld The heads of covered necdlesculpture dolls are smaller than those of the basic calico dolls to allow for the extra padding. so make sure you use the correct pattern. Make up the head as Andrew's, except for the ears, which are sewn in place after the head is covered (see page 16). The doll's ears should be made of stockinette to match the texture of the head: make them from a scrap of stockinette backed with iron-on interfacing. Stuff the head very firmly through the neck opening and work a few cross threads over the opening to keep the stuffing in place. Do not sew the head to the body yet. Cu t out the check, chin and nose pieces from stockinette - note the direction of the stretch on the nose piece. Cut a head cover 22 x 15cm (BM x 6in) from stockinette, with most stretch going across the 22cm (BMin) width. Follow the instructions for making a covered needlesculpture head (sec pages 54-56). When it is complete, sew the head in place.
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. Notice the shape of the eyes and the eyebrows, which help to give David an anxious expression.
60
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2 Jacket. Fold the pocket flaps in half, R.S. facing. Sel\' both side seams. Turn R.S. out, tack tops and $Cl\' pocket fla ps in place. Press down.
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61
11 Sew the side seams. Hem
12 Make buttonholes and
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sew on the buttons.
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15 Sew the peak to the t.>dge of the C,lP, matching the centre-front notch to the cenlre of one pand.
16 Wilh R.5. facing. place th ... cap lining over cap ,1nd peak. Sew together .1t the lower edge through .111 thickrll·'<,e.., le,wing an op'-'ning at the back.
18 LCoIth er shoe. Cut the lower t."OIl.' p,lllern (5('(" Andrcw's .. hoc, p"se 23).
19 Glut, the pinkcd edge 10
20 \\'hen dr)" glue the leather -.ole in place.
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24 Write the child's name
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cut dO\;'n to ~iJ:e,
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usan is 39cm (1S}{in) tall. A little girl starting a
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proper school uniform, and she is very proud of her smart satchel and blazer and hat, with their bright red braid.
66
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oFlesh-coloured calico oFlesh-coloured stockinette
Pants Thin stockinette; narrow elastic; narrow lace trim Blazer and hat Navy blue felt; red Russian braid; ironon interfacing; 2 small buttons
' Scraps of flesh-coloured or white felt ' Set of 3cm (t}:(in) plastic joints olong fur-fabric (for the wig)
Dress Cotton or polycotton with a small red gingham check; snap fasteners or decorative buttons Underslip White cotton or polycotton; broderie anglaise trim, lSmm ~in) wide; small button Shoes Navy blue felt or leather; felt or leather it' contrasting colour (for soles); 2 small buttons
' Narrow ribbon · Thin ca rd to make templates of pattern pieces · White polyester toy filling ' Stuffing sticks ' Fabric paints; permanent markers; colour pencils (see face painting, pages 10--11)
Socks Pair of white chi ld's socks School satchel Tan leather or felt; 2 small buckles
' White tacky craft glue ' Basic sewing kit, including strong thread and threads to ma tch all fabrics (i ncluding those for the clothes)
Read Making the Dolls on pages 8---11 before you begin.
Making the doll Follow the instructions for making David up to the ha ir (see page 60). The hair Use the pattern for Amy's wig (see page 14). Cut a neat fringe for Susan. Tie the hair back al each side and sew two red hair ribbons in place. Mak ing the clothes Make the pants, underslip and socks exactly as Amy's (see pages 17 and 19). Make the dress as Amy's but do not use cont rasting fabric for the collar and cuffs. Omit the tie belt, which will look bulky unde r the blazer. The shoes may be made from felt or leather. If you use leather, follow the instructions fo r David 's shoe soles (see page 62). Make the blazer as David's jacket but add patch pockets. Sew Russian braid to the collar, cuffs and pocket tops.
Russian braid is a fine two-cord braid. To attach it ne<1tly, sew between the cords with matching thread.
Susan's leather shoes. Use a soft, pliable leather for the uppers and a heavier one for the soles.
67
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3 With R.5. facing, sew the
side of the hat brim. Sew the centre-back seam of both brim sections.
brim sections together .llong the outside edge. Trim the :;('a m, turn R.S. out and prcss.
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7 Satchel. Sew buckles to the '>
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The brim of the soft felt school hat is backed with a fus ible interfacing to help retain its shape.
68
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inger stands 39cm (15.J{in) high. She wears her long hair in two plaits and has a smock dress made from a p retty cotton print with a contrasting collar. Ginger's rather pens ive l-need-a-cudd le express ion makes her everyone's favourite.
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71
GINGER
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Pan ts Thin stockinette; narrow elastic; narrow lace trim Und erslip White cotton or polycotton; broderie anglaise trim, 15mm (}{in) wide; small button Dress Cotton print in a small floral design in shades of pink; plain cotton for collar; snap fasteners or decoratil'e buttons Socks Pair of child's white socks Pink ribbon 15mm (}{in) wide
- Flesh-coloured stockinette - Iron-on woven interfacing - Flesh-coloured calico -Scraps of flesh-coloured or white felt - Set of 3cm (1 ;4'in) plastic joints - About 55cm (22in) bright auburn mohair or alpaca roving (for the hair) - Thin card to make templates of pattern pieces - White polyester toy filling - Stuffing sticks - Fabric paints; permanent markers; colour pencils (see face pa inting. pages 10-11) - White tacky craft glue - Hot-glue gun - Basic sewing kit, including strong thread and threads to match all fabrics (including those for the clothes)
Read Mnkillg tile Dolls on pages 8-11 before you begin.
Ginger wears bought sandals and carries a s mall handmade or bought teddy bear. Her body is made from stockinette. Before you use stockinette you must s tabilize it by fu sing woven interfacing to the reverse side. Do not use non-woven interfacing or it will tear when the doll is stuffed, and do not s tretch the stockinette when you iron the interfacing to it. Once it is applied, use the fabric as usuaL Making the doll Follow the instructions for making David up to the hair (see page 60). The hai r Follow the instructions for Cassie MaTie's hair (see pages 32-3) but use the mohair or alpaca roving instead of strands of mohair knitting yarn. The roving must not be combed through. Cut off the amount required and spread it gently with the fingers to cover the tape. Separate the strands with your fingers before plaiting. The wispy curls around the hairline are made by winding thin strands of mohair around a penci l and steaming them with an iron. When they are dry, glue them in place. Making the clothes Make the pants, underslip and socks exactly as Amy's (see pages 17 and 19).
A few wispy curls and a sprinkling of freckles give Ginger a winsome look.
72
Gl'lGER
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R.s. 1 Oress. With R.5. filcing, sew the collars together in p.1irs. Clip the curves, turn R.5. out and press. Tilck the collars toge ther at the centre front.
2 Sew the collars to the dress bod ice, ma tching the centre fronts.
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4 Gather the top edge of the skirt front between the armholes, pull up gathers to fit the bodice and stitch the skirt front to the bodice.
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6 Gather the tops of the skirt backs between the armholes i1nd s titch the skirt bilcks to the bodice bilcks.
7 Press the hem allowance of sleeves to the \Vs. and make cilsings for nilrrow clastic. Gather the tops of sleevl'S between dots.
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10 Turn the dress R.S. out and press. Press up and sew the hem. Sew snap filsteners or buttons to the back openings.
73
8 Pull up the gathers. with R.5. filcing, sew the sleeves into the armholes.
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Basically, needle sculpture is :.imply a method of defining the conlours of the face and body by using needle and thread to form ridges and dimples in all the right places. It may seem complicated at first, but with practice it becomes mllch easier and therefore more enjoyable. There are no hard and fas t rules in needlcsculpture - it is an art form. Once the basics have been learned, most people enjoy experimenting and arc fascinated by their crea tions,
The bridge of the nose and the nostri l:. MC formed first.
often producing wonderful original dolls. Needlesculpture is not a new technique: it has been used in doll-making for many years. There were many wonderful cloth doll-makers in Britain and America in the early part of the 20th century. [ WiI!> captivated the first time I saw a picture of Julia Beecher 's 'Missionary Ragbabies'. They were made of old sil k underwear, s kilfully nccdlesculptured and delicately painted. These bc
Thl' nOS(' is completed and the remaining fcature:-. are sl..ctchcd in.
The eycs imd mouth are needlesculpted before painting.
Poppy An example of a completed needle-sculpted and painted face.
76
P URE
N E E DLESCULI'TURE
Need lesculpture in structions 1 A[ways begin with an anchor stitch (see below). 2 Try to cut enoug h thread to finish each sequence. If you thin k you will run out, exit the needle at a s uitable s pot and fin ish off while there is enough thread left. A new thread can be joined anywhere on the face using an anchor stitch. 3 Always exit the thread at a seam or some unobt rusive place and fin ish off with a small backs titch. 4 After fini sh ing, clip the thread carefully to avoid making a hole in the fabric. [f a hole is made accidentall y coat it with fray-check and leave to dry. Holes made all the face w ill always be visible. 5 Dig deep under the stuffing to raise ridges for noses etc. Use the point of a needle to li ft the s tuffing and move it about under the fabric. 6 Do not pull the s titches too tight. 7 Repeat each sti tch at least once to make sure it hold s . 8 Use a fine polyester sewing thread in a matching or neutral colour. 9 Stitches shown on the diagrams as dotted lines are underneath the fabric and stuffing. 10 Meas urements are approximate and may be adjusted.
years I made baby dolls from nylon stockings and tights - a frust rating process because quite o ften a ladder or hole would a p pear just as I was adding the fini shing touches, but I gained a lot of experience. I think there is a limit to what can be learned from a pattern, and th is is ce rtainly true of needlesculpture. Use these few easy patterns as a sp ringboard for your own ideas and then practise, practise, practise. If you love making dolls as much as I do you will find that it is worth it in the end. If you are new to needlescu[pture you may find the following poin ts will help you avoid common mistakes .
1Always check the direction of maximum stretch before tracing patterns. 2 One side of the fabric is a little smoother than the other; choose which one you want as the 'right s ide' before tracing and cutting. 3 Use a new ballpoint needle in your machine. 4 Strengthen holes made for joints by coating with fraycheck. 5 Dolls made for needlesculpture should be stuffed firmly but not too hard: about the feel of a ripe tomato is a good rule of thumb. <'/, •
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Cut twice the amount of thre.ld needed. Use a fine darning needle, ,1bout size 2 or 3 for the face, and thread it with both cut ends.
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2 Do not pul! the loop all the way through.
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4 Pull the sti tch up snugly bu t not too tight.
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homas (opposite) is a 36cm (1 4in ) high, cute, cudd ly baby boy with jointed arms and legs and a wispy wi~ which is easily made from a patch of fur fabric. The terry nappy, one-piece romper and pom-pam slippers he wea rs would be cons idered very old fash ioned by today's modern babies. Brown-eyed Bobby is cosy in his fleecy pram coat and bobble hat. Underneath he is wearing a terry nappy and a matinee jacket, and felt booties on his feet. Ros ie, the baby girl above, has a bonnet to match her coat and a pretty, full-skirted smock dress underneath the coat.
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- Flesh-coloured Windsor Ponte or Comfort - Set of 3cm (Iy.'in) plastic joints (for the arms); set of 3.5cm ( IXin) plastic joints (for the legs) - Ha ir material of your choice - c.g., pack of curly doll hair, small piece of long fur fabric, short length of mohair roving (only loose combings are used) - Thin card to make templates of pattern pieces - White polyester toy filling - Stuffing sticks - Fabric paints; perma nent markers; colour pencils
Nappy Stretch terry cloth; touch-and-close tape Matinee jacket T-shirt fabric or other soft fabric; embroidery thread; narrow ribbon Dress and rompers Any soft fabrics, either plain or with small patterns or dots; narrow elastic; small buttons or snap fasteners Coals and hats Acrylic Ocece in soft colours; matching bullons; ribbon 7mm (about ;in) wide; 1 pompon Socks P,lir of baby white socks (for each don) Booties and slippers Felt; narrow ribbon; small buttons; small pompons
- Hot-glue gun - Tacky glue - 9cm (3;.!in) doll-making need le • Basic sewing kit, including strong thread and threads to match all fabrics (including those for the clothes)
Read Makillg 1/11' Dolls on pages 8-11 before you begin.
Windsor Ponte The material used for the body must be a firm knit with a li ttle stretch. Windsor Ponte, a knit fabric that is vcry strong and does not run when stretched, is ideal, but you can use other fabrics if you prefer. Windsor Comfort is lighter in weight and smoother to the touch. Knitted velour is also suitable, and you can use either the smooth or the fuzzy side.
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Rosie is wearing a traditional smock drtSS wilh a full skirt. It is in a pretty pastel pink to tone with her coat and bonnet.
and lie wilh a satin ribbon.
Stitch little toes and fingers on the baby dolls. Define fingers by top-stitching or U<)C the pattern with separate fingers.
81
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7 Legs. Place the insides of the legs side by side to make sure you have a right and a left. Clip or punch small holes for the jOint pe",.
8 With R.S. facing. sew the legs, leaving open betwl'l'n dots. Pinch up and S('w the darts on the insides of the ankles. Flatten out the feet and S('w across the toes.
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10 Arms. Lay the insides of the arms side by side. Clip or punch small holes for the jOints.
11 With R.S. facing. sew the arms. The hands are templates. If you are using the separate fingers, see page 54. Sew the wrist darts.
82
12 Turn the arms R.S. out. Stuff the arms and inS('rt the joints. Ladder-stitch the openings.
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13 Measure 6cm (2}.:in) from the neck to the centre of the head (('ntre panel. Mark this point with a ::traight pin.
14 At this le..,('1 mark 2 small dots, Icm (Xin) apart. This is the bridge of the nose and the starting point for need lemodelling. Make an anchor stitch at this point.
J5 Continue to work a few rows back and forth underneath the stuffing to form the bridge of the nose.
16 Use the point of a strong needle to pull up a small bump in the stuffing to fo rm the nose. Mar k the nostrils about Icm (}{in) apart under the nosc.
17 Stitch up and down 2-3 times from the bridge to the nostril, digging unde r the stuffing. Do not pull 100 tight. Bring the thread out at the bridge of the nose.
18 Take the needle under the bridge to the other side. Work the second nostril. Bring the thread out at the bridge of the nose.
19 Use a sharp pencil 10 draw a curved line either side of the nose, from the bridge to just below the nostrils. This will ddine the shape of the nose but will be wider than the finished nose.
20 Start at bridge and work down in a ladder formation. Use the curved lines as a guide. Dig under the stuffing to lift the nose. The pencil lines ~hould be covered in small, neat stitches. Exit threild at the bottom.
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t} 21To make the last stitch, insert the needle just below the nostril and bring it oul a1 the bridge. Repeat at the other side. At this point you may want to rc-define the rostrils.
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23 Mark the corners of the mout h slightly lower than you plan the mouth to be, about 15mm (Xin) below the nose and 15mm Cfln) ap,lrt.
83
N Thread your needle and make an anchor ~titch just below the bridge of the
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32 Stitch Ihe toes.
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26 Cross the bndge and repeat at the other side, keeping bolh sides even. Bring out the needle atlhe n<."Ck !;Cam and cl ip the thread carefully.
the eye shape. Fold a piece of paper in half. tr"ce the eye onto it and cut it out. You now have a pair of eye templates. Mark the R.5. to avoid confu~ ion .
neck to the outer comer of one eye, pull up ~Iigh tl y and stitch back and forth to hold the stitch. Repeal at the inner corner of the eye. Bring the needle out at the neck and cli p the thread. Rethread the needle and repeat at the other eye. See face painting (pages 10-11 ) to finish the face. Draw the mouth line lightly wilh a tan marker pen. 1110mas could have a simple line mouth or a more detailed one with rosy lips coloured with a warm pink crayon pendl.
28 Pin the templates 10 the f"ce so that thev are about level with the t~p of the nose and about an eye's width apart. Draw around them with a sharp pencil.
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84
30 J01t1 the I~s and arms 10 the body. Stuff the body and ladder-stitch the openings.
31 Top-stitch to define the finge .....
34 Cut out the wispy wig from long fur fabric and brush out.
35 Pin, then stitch the wig in place on the crown of the head. Smear the head all around the wig with tack~' gl ue, bru<;h the fur over and lea\'e to dry.
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3 To fasten, wrap the s1de flaps around the dol! and the front flap over them.
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7 Kn ickers. With R.S. facing, sew the centre-front seam. Make casings at the waist edge and hems of both legs.
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11 Dress. See Gl11ger s dress (page 73).
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14 Make the romper bodice
17 Booties. Follow the
18 Slippers. Fold the strap in half and oversew the edges together. Sew the centre-front and centrc·back se
directions for Andrcw's shoes (page 19). Make the socks as Andrew's (page 19).
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and collar the s..l me way as the dress. Sew the romper fronl, backs and sleeves to the bodice.
15 Thread the sleeve casi ngs with cia"tic to fil Ihe doll. Sew the side seams. Make casings at the leg edges.
16 Thread elastic through Ihe leg casings to fit the doll
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20 Ladder·stitch the sole to
shoe. Sew the tab inside the back of the shoe. Try the shoe on the doll and sew on a snap fas tene r and button. Stick or sew a pompon to the front.
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23 Sew around the collar, turn R.5. out, pn.'SS ilnd t.1Ck the r.l\\' edges together. Top· stitch the finished edge.
86
24 Sew the collar to the R.5. of the neckline, matching the rentre of collar to the rentl'(' back of the coat.
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28 Fold pockets III half. RS . f.l cing. and stitch, leaving openings to turn. Turn R S. out. Top-stitch pockets onto the co.l t.
sleeves between dots to ease. Sew sleeves in place. Sew sleeve and side seams.
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sleeves. Top-~ titch the front openings. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons.
31 Make a casing a t the neck edge of the bonnet.
30 Bo nnet. Sew both hack seams of the bonnet. Make the brim in the same way as the co.lt collar.
32 Wit h R.5. of the brim faci ng W.5. of the bonnet, sew the brim in place, leaving the I::ilsings free.
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34 Bobble ha t. Fold the hat wit h RS. facing and sew the centre-bal::k seam. Turn a 5cm (2in) hem to the W.5. Sew with s tretch-stitl::h or hem loosely.
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35 Gather the to p edge unti1 it is tightly dosed and finish off securely. Turn R.5. out. Turn the brim to the R.5. and sew a pompon to the lOp.
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his boudoir doll is 56cm (22in) tall. Poppy is a doll w ith attitude and is reminiscent of the s lender, elegant lad y dolls of the 19205, wh ich were often found decorating the homes a nd limousines of the fashionable ladies of the time. She has bobbed hair and wears a cloche hat, bar· strap shoes and a long string of beads, which were so popular. Poppy will s it or lounge almost anywhere, but looks particularly comfortable in a small chair of her own.
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103
POI'I>Y
IlfI/I'!'/fllr fI/1t1 (11If//N '/1f - Unbleached or pale pink calico - Flesh-coloured Windsor Comfort - 24 x l2cm ('10 x Sin) long fur fab ric, black - 2 s mall buttons to match the body fabric - White polyester toy filling
Dress Soft cotton or silky fabric, red and while print; 3 s mall snap fasteners Knickers Thin white fab ric; narrow lace trim; narrow clastic Hal JO x 30cm (12 x 12in) red felt Necklace of s mall red or b lack beads 3&m (l5in) long
-Stuffing sticks - Thin card to make templates of pattern pieces - Black. white, blue and red fabri c paints; black and tan permanent markers; blue crayon pencil; peachcoloured cosmetic blusher - 9cm (3}{in ) doll-making needle - Closs varnish - Basic sewing kit, including s trong thread and thread s to match all fabrics (including those for the clothes)
Read Making till' Dolls on pages 8-11 before you begin.
Poppy is made from two fabri cs. The body and legs are made from calico so that she ca n sil well and 10 give shape to the shoes. The head . arms and neck cover aTe needlescu lptured fabric. The legs and arms of this pattern are templates. Sew around the shoes with a vcry small s titch and clip Ihe curve under the heel up to the stitching. After
sewing and trimming the toes, carefull y turn them right side out. Stuff the shoes a littl e at a time very firm ly. !i> haping them as you work. Poppy's head should measure 2lcm (8Y-in) all around when s tuffed. Stretch the head gently as you work and fill every hollow s moothly, taking care that you do nol leave any ga ps between the filling.
Poppy's fa ce colours - eyebrows - black eeyelid Cf{',lS(' - tan - eyelid - blue crayon pencil - ('yeli ne and lashes - black - iris - blue - pupil- black - lips and naib - red - checks - peach blusher - highlights - white
104
POP P Y
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I Legs and s hoes. After sewing and culling o u t, flatten out the foot. Tr.lce around the card toe guide and sew the pointed toe.
2 Trim the corners and clip curves. Turn R.5. out, laking e:dril Cil TC with the hrels and toc.;. Mark the g\lidelines for painting the sh()('«.
3 Stuff the .;hO('S and legs up to the knees. flilttening them out :;0 thilt the ')Cams ilre in the centre. Top·.,titch acros~ the knL'C~. Stuff the tops of the legs <,(lftly. Tad. the tops of the leS" clo'>l-d.
4 Paint and varnish the shoes now, while the legs ilre M'parate. Lay them aside to dry.
7 With 1-1:.5. facing.
8 With {ranb of leg!> facing the R.5. of the body front, sew the leg'> in place. M.lke ,>ure th ... -.cam alloll'.lnce is left free at both sides.
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6 With R.5. fa cing.
the centre-front '>Cam of the chest and '>Cw the bust darls. Stay.stitch .1nd clip the lower edge of che-.t ilnd top edge of abdomen. <;ell'
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11 Arms and hands. After cutting out the arms, clip cMcfult), betwren eilch finger up to the stitching. (See pagl' 54 for turning and ~tuffing finge",.)
105
12 Turn arm., KS. out and !:>I uff carefull\'. Ladder·!:> titch the opening';. Pilint on miniature red fingernails later when you p,lint Poppy's lips.
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facing.. sew the centre-back <:I:'am of the head b,lek, leaving an opening. St.1Y~titch the neck edge.
15 Sew the forehead dart and the 3 chin darts in the heild front. Slily-stitch the neck edge.
16 With R.5. facing, sew head front to head back, miltching the notches. Turn R.5. out ilnd stuff carefully, sll
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18 When you are s.1tisfied
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arms ilfC button-jointed. The button,> are on the outsides of the arms to ~ trengthen the points where the thread ente~ the fabric. Threild a long doll-milking needle wi th ,1 long length of doubled strong thread. Follow the
sequence shown in the diagrilm ilbovc. Milke sure the thumbs face forward before you begin. Keep a tight len,>ioll on the threild illld PilS,> the needle bilck ilnd forth sever.,l t ime~ before finishing off.
106 ,
POppy
Poppy's face The sma ll er the face, the morc diffiCll1t it is to k<..'Cp the fea tures in proportion. Poppy's head does not use a vast amou nt of fabric, so I usually make Iwo or threc, jus t in case I am unhappy wi th my first il tlempt - and if J end up with three perfect heads, it's a bonus. The nose is worked in exactl y the same way as Thomas's; refer to steps 14-22 on page 83 but ignore the measurements. Poppy has a small, delicate nose. Tilke caTe that you do not make it loo big, and it will be a guid e for the rest of her face. Remember that the measurements arc approximate and may be altered slightly. Oril w the feil tures lightly in pencil. Use a fine cotion darning needle to model the nose, ilnd a doll-making needle, about9cm (3}{in) long. to inden t the eyes and mouth corners. Begin with an a nchor stitch.
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1 Measure 5cm (2in) from the nC(k to the centre of the face. Mark this point wi th ,1
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3 For the nostrils and guideline.:; for the n~ ~ steps 17-19 for Thomas. Follow steps 20-22 to finish the nose.
2 At this level mark two
small dots 7mm (>"in) apart. This is the bridge of the nose and the start ing point for needle modelling Follow stcp~ 14-17 for Thomas (PJge 83).
4 Ma rk with pins 3 points
lem C in) below the no~ and 2.5cm (tin) JPM!. Use thc<;c J'; J guide to drJw the curved line for Poppy's mouth (the diJgram i<, JctuJI ~ize).
L..I "-EY 5 Draw the 'bet' s tu ng' lips in the centre of the line.
6 DrJw the eyes using the template<; on page 109. The eyelidS
7 Working from the bJck of the head and using the long needle .md strong thread, indent the eye corner,;. SL'<' covered needlesculptu re, s tep 7 (p,lge 56),
107
8 Indent the corner" of Poppy's mouth from the ,>ides of the heJd beyond the hJirline. Pull on the threJd,; '> lightly to make her ~mile.
P orl'Y
M a k in g th e cloth es To make the knickers and hat, follow the ins tructions for Cassie Marie's clothes (see pages 33 and 35). The finished hat is very close fitting and s hould be pulled well down. The crown may need a little stuffing to give it shape.
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elanie and friend s are 28c01 (11 in) d olls, dressed in felt and colton cloth ing which is not removable. These small dolls, w ith their needlescu lptured faces and min iature outfits, are po pular w ith both children and collectors.
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115
MELAN'IE
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A"ID
FRIEND S
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• Flesh- or toast-coloured Windsor Comfort • Lightweight woven interfacing - White or cream-coloured thin stockinette (for the socks) - Long fur fabric, thin knitting wool or mohair roving (for the hair) - Thin card to make templates of pattern pieces - White poly(.'Ster toy filling - Stuffing sticks - 2 small buttons and strong thread (for jointing the arms) - Fabric paints; permanent markers; coloured pencils; cosmetic blusher - Sasic scwing kit, induding strong thread and threads to match all fabrics (including those for the cloth!..'!»
Pants White or cream-coloured thin stockinette; narro"' lace trim Wa ist petticoats White or cream-coloured cotlon or polycotton lawn; lace trim Dresses Small print or plain cotion Coats. jackets and hats Felt Shoes Felt; strong card (for the soles) Small buttons and beads
Read Making till' Dolls on pages 8-11 before you begin.
join at the centre back. Do not make buttonholes; simply embroider them. Make the collarless jacket as the coat, but omit the collar and buttons. For the hat see Cassie Marie (page 35). For all other instructions see the d iagTilms on the following pages.
The heads and arms are made from fabric that has a little stretch across the width, and the bodies and legs are made from the same fabric with an iron-on interfacing bonded to the wrong side to prevent stretchir,S. The socks. which are an integral pari of the doll, are made from thin stockinette, also interfaced. Windsor Comfort is perfect for small needle sculpture dolls. but ony fabric thot hos a little stretch ond does not run may be used. Interfacing must be woven. The dolls hold small dolls and bears, which you mny buy or mnke yourself. Making the dolls To mnkc the head and att.lch the arms follow the instructions for Poppy (see page 106). The arms ore templates, ,lI1d the fingers ore top-stitched. To make the hairstyles with plaits in wool or mohair see the instructions for Cassie Marie (pages 32-3) and Gi nger (page 72). To needlesculpt and paint the face see the diagrams on page 119 and the face pointing guidelines (pages 10-11 and 76-7). Making the clothes The clothes were not designed to be removilble, but they can be adapted quite easily if you prefer. To moke the felt coo ts s(''C the necdlesculptuTe baby, Thomas - (pages 86-7). ote that the back-neck facing does not hove a centre picre, and the two side facings
Top-stitch the pockets and collars of the CO<1tS in matching or contrasting thread to add interest.
116
MElANIE
AND
F RIEND!>
Ru by wears the fu ll-length (Th.lt and beret in red felt with m
Pe nelope h.1S a bright cotton print dress underneath a gold felt collarless jacket and m,"ltching hat. The tiny bear tucked in her pocket ",.l S once a key ring.
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Me la nic (page 115) is wearing a full-length coat wi th matching hat in blue felt and a cotton d ress in a da intv, flora l print. He r plai ted hair is made from blonde mohair roving.
MElANIE
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3 Turn ItS. out. Stuff firmly, especially the neck. Ladders titch the opening.
" With RS. f.lcing. sew the :'OCk to the leg. \Nith R.5. facing. sew the foot to the ~k, matching the dob.
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8 Ladder-stitch the legs to the front edge of the body base.
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With R.5. facing, sew the centre seam. Turn the wig RS. out and brush well to release any fur tr,'pped in the seam.
Try the wig on the doll, gathering tht> edge s lightly to fit if necessMy, ,lnd !>CW in place.
Style into side pigtail~ and sew them in place. Sew narrow ribbon bows over the stitches. Trim the fringe.
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Plaited hai rs tyle If using \\"001. choose a thin-ply yarn. Use black wool with a crinkly texture for Ruby. Follow the instructions for
Cassie Marie's hair<;lylc (sce pages 32-3). Adjust the length of the .~t rilnds to su itlhe doll. Make a curly fringe of loops of wool sewn 10 Ihe forehead for Ruby.
ME lANJE
A"D
F~J EI\DS
The {,1ces of allthcsc 28cm (11 in) dolls arc worked in the same way. When you are needle-modelling a face as small as this, it is impr,lcticable to use specific measurements. Experience will be the best guide, but your first attempts will be a maller of trial and error. On small dolls work with single thread, and ins tead of using a n ar,chor s titch, secure your thread at the back of the head and take it through to the starting point. The followi ng nose is Illost suitable for Slllall dolls. If you use it on larger dolls, work a web of stitches under the s tuffing to hold the shape.
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2 Using the point of you r needle, pull up a ~malt bump in the stuffing for the nose. Hold the left side in pl,lee with your thumb.
3 Insert the needle at thl' bridg.. ,lnd take it out .1t a point just below the nostril, pa ... ~ ing the point of the needle over the thread.
" pun on the thread to make a loop around the side of the nose.
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6 When you are mooelling Ihe right side of the nose, it is easier 10 hold the stuffing in place with a straight pin. Loop the thread right around the pin.
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7 Mark the corners of Ihe mouth undo: r the nose and model them (see Thomas, steps 25 and 26, p11ge 8-1).
119
8 Draw the mouth line lightly in l11n. Painllhe lips or colour them with crayon.
MELAN!E
AJ\D
F R!ENDS
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9 Draw and paint the eyes. Inden t them from the back of the head (see step 7, page 56). Colou r the checks lightly with cosmetic blusher.
10 T·ba r s hoe. This is a slip.
11 Ankle-strap s hoe. Follow
on shoe, with a be<1d used as a d ecorative bu tton fastener. M.lke the soles in the same way as Amy's shoes (page 19).
the instructions for Thomas's sl ippers (page 86). Stitch the straps closed and add a bead fo r decoration.
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14 Sleeveless dress. With R.5. facing, sew the bodice to the lining along the back edges and around the neckline a nd along the armholes. Gently turn R.S. out through the shoulders.
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12 Pants. Make the pants without <1 c.lsing for the elastic. Turn in the raw edge and slipstitch to the doll's wais t.
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15 Sew s ide seams of bodice and lining. Gathe r s kirt and sew to bodice. Sew the back seam and hem the s kirt. Place the dress on the d oll and sl ipstitch the back oJX·ni ng .
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17 Beret. The pattern is a templ.l!e. Dra w around the outer circle on a double layer o f felt and machine a round on the line. Cut o ut after sewing. Cut the inner circle from one layer. Turn the beret R.5. out.
18 The beret can be pl<1ced at any angle. The hal should be pulled well down. Hats may be sewn in place or left loose.
120
16 If the d oll is to hold a small bear or d oll, bend the arm al the elbow and l<1dder-s ti lch in position before pulling on the coat.
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• SLl'r'LrE~S
ATE~IAr<"
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,
127
A C K N 0 \\ LED GEM ENT S
-
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To my husband, Howard, for his unfailing patience and good humour during the many years he has been chauffeur and hand yman to myself and all the dolls. And 10 my friends and fellow doll-makers in the Countrywide Dollmakcrs' Gu ild, for their encouragement and companionship and for their help in testing my patterns.
128
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