Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 7

COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATIONS This page intentionally left blank COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATlONS Second Edi...

Author: Ernest W. Flick

2238 downloads 9740 Views 5MB Size Report

This content was uploaded by our users and we assume good faith they have the permission to share this book. If you own the copyright to this book and it is wrongfully on our website, we offer a simple DMCA procedure to remove your content from our site. Start by pressing the button below!

Report copyright / DMCA form

DOWNLOAD PDF

COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATIONS

This page intentionally left blank

COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATlONS Second Edition Volume 7

by

Ernest W. Flick

NOYES PUBLICATIONS WILLIAM ANDREW PUBLISHING, LLC Nomlch, New York, U.S.A.

Copyright 0 1999 by Ernest W.Flick No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 89-39099 ISBN 0-6155-1430-1 Printed in the United States Published in the United States of America by Noyes Publications/WilliamAndrew Publishing, LLC 13 Eaton Avenue, Nowich, New York 13615 10 9 6 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data (Revised for vol. 7) Flick, Ernest W. Casmetic and toiletry formulations. 1. Cosmetics. 2. Toilet preparations. I. Title. 666'.55 TF'963.F55 1969 ISBN 0-6155-1216-X (v. 1) ISBN 0-8155-1306-2 (v. 2) ISBN 0-6155-1367-4 (v. 3) ISBN 0-6155-1383-6 (v. 4) ISBN 0-6155-1395-X (v. 5) ISBN 0-6155-1412-3 (v. 6) ISBN 0-8155-1430-1 (v. 7)

89-39099

To

the late Glenice and Wendell and Colby and Therese and Clayton and Madeleine

V

This page intentionally left blank

This book contains 576 cosmetic and toiletry formulations, based on information received from numerous industrial companies and other organizations. This is Volume 7 of the Second Edition of this work; Volume 1was published in 1989, Volume 2 in 1992, Volume 3 in early 1995, Volume 4 in late 1995, Volume 5 in 1996, and Volume 6 in 1998. There are no duplications in any of these volumes. The data represent selections from manufacturers' descriptions made at no cost to, nor influence from, the makers or distributors of these materials. Only the most recent formulas have been included. It is believed that all of the trademarked raw materials listed are currently available, which will be of interest to readers concerned with raw material discontinuances. The 1996 market for cosmetic raw materials is estimated at $2 billion. Each formulation in the book is identified by a description of end use. The formulations include the following as available, in the manufacturer's own words: a listing of each raw material contained; the percent by weight of each raw material; suggested formulation procedure; and the formula source, which is the company or organization that supplied the formula. The book is divided into the following 12 sections, with the number of formulations indicated in ( ).

I. 11. 111.

Iv. V.

VI. VII. VIII.

Ix.

X. XI. XI.

Antiperspirants and Deodorants (20) Baby Products (17) Bath and Shower Products (59) Beauty Aids (97) Creams (75) Hair Care Products (66) Lotions (40) Shampoos (43) Shaving Products (11) Soaps and Hand Cleaners (48) Sun Care Products (72) Miscellaneous (28)

vii

viii

Preface

Each formula is indexed in the section which is most applicable. The reader seeking a formula for a specific end use should check each section which could possibly apply.

In addition to the above, there are two other sections that will be helpful to the reader: XIII.

Trade-Named Raw Materials. Each raw material is listed with a brief chemical description and the name of the raw material supplier.

XIV.

Suppliers' Addresses. Addresses of suppliers of tradenamed raw materials and/or formulations, some of which are not available in the usual reference books.

It should be noted that some formulations in the book are translations. The manufacturer's exact wording has been used in these cases. Occasionally different companies have listed the same raw material differently; it is hoped that the reader will be able to identify the same or similar raw materials by consulting the Trade-Named Raw Materials section. The table of contents of the book is organized in such a way as to serve as a subject index. My fullest appreciation is expressed to the companies and organizations which supplied the information included in this book. Ernest W. Flick

July 1999

NOTICE To the best of our knowledge the infomation in this publication is accurate; however, the Publisher does not aSsume any responsibility or liability for the accuracy or completeness of, or consequences arising from, such information. This book does not purport to contain detailed user instruction, and by its range and scope could not possibly do so. Mention of trade names or commercial products does not constitute endorsement or recommendation for use by the Author or Publisher. Cosmetic and toiletry raw materials could be toxic or cause allergies in some circumstances, and, therefore, due caution should always be exercised in the use of potentially hazardous materials and the manufacturing processes involved. Final determination of the suitability of any information or product for use contemplated by any user, and the manner of that use, is the sole responsibility of the user. We strongly recommend that users seek and adhere to a manufacturer's or supplier's cunent instructions for handling each material they use. The Author and Publisher have used their best efforts to include only the most recent data available. The reader is cautioned to consult the supplier in case of questions regarding cunent availability.

Contents and Subject Index

SECTION 1: ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS . . . . . . . . . 1 Antiperspirant Gel with 20% Active AVZr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Deodorant Gel with 25% Active ACH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Enhanced Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Reduced VOC Antiperspirant Aerosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Enhanced Antiperspirant Suspension Roll-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Enhanced Efficacy Antiperspirant Suspension Roll-On . . . . . . . . 5 Non Whitening Antiperspirant Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Water-in-Oil Antiperspirant Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Oil-in-Water Roll-on Anti-Perspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Clear Pumpable Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Deo Antiperspirant Spray with Aerosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Roll-on Antispirant Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Antiperspirant Roll-on Lotion with lsosorbide Monolaurate . . . . . . 9 Roll-On Antiperspirants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 10 ACH Formula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A1 Zr Tetrachlorothydrex-GLY Formula . . . . . . . . . . 10 11 Roll on Deodorant Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Antiperspirant Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Stick Antiperspirants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 SECTION II: BABY PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Hair Conditioner Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diaper Rash Ointment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearlized Baby Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

13 14 14 15 15

16 17 18 19

x

Contents and Subject Index Crystal Clear Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Acid Balanced Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Baby Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.............

20 20 21 21

SECTION 111: BATH AND SHOWER PRODUCTS 22 After BathBhower Milky Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 After Bath/Shower Soft Milky Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 After-Shower Milky Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 After-Shower Soft Milky Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 After-Shower Flowable Milky Creme/Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 25 Shower Gel for Sensitive Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath Gel with Vitamin E Moisturizing Beads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Bath and Shower Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 28 Bath and Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Simple Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 30 Clear Milk-Based Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Opacified Milk-Based Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Clear Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Shower Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Cream Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Powdered Bath Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 33 Creamy Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Floating Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Creamy Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Creamy "2 in 1" Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Creme Body Wash with Emmollients . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Economy Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 European Style Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 37 Blooming Emollient Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Exfoliating Body Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Foaming Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Gentle Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Economical Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 40 Clear Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low Cost Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Mild Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 After BathTalc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Milk Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Body Wash for Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Milk Enriched Bath and Shower Cleanser (Clear)-B . . . . . . . . . 44

Contents and Subject Index

xi

Milk Enriched Bath and Shower Cleanser (Clear)-C . . . . . . . . . 44 Milk Enriched Bath and Shower Cleanser (Clear)-D . . . . . . . . . 44 Milk Enriched Bath and Shower Cleanser (Clear)-E . . . . . . . . . 45 Milk Enriched Bath and Shower Cleanser (Clear) . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Milk Enriched Body Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Gel Conditioning Body Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Moisturizing Shower Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Moisturizing Self-Emulsifying Bath Oil (With AHA-Ester) . . . . . 47 Moisturizing Shower Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Shower Gel with Low Washing Active Solids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Opacified Bath & Shower Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Opacified Bath & Shower Liquid Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 50 Pearlized Bath Salts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower and Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Water White Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 2 in 1 Creamy Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 SECTION I V BEAUTY AIDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 AHA-Clarifying Face Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Aloe Vera Gel Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Amphoteric Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 OW-Moisturizing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Anhydrous Deep Penetrating Vitamin Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 59 Gel with Thiosome (P) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Blackstar Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Eye Shadow with Timiron MP-60. MP-65 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 61 Body Mask With Liposilt Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleansing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Make up Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 63 Cleansing Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Clear Facial Cleansing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Concealing Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 66 Creamy Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dark Beige Makeup with Tego Care 450 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Facial Cleaner and Toner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Deep Extra Body Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 69 Emollient Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Ester Based Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sheer Liquid Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Eye Contour Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Eye Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Facial Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73

xii

Contents and Subject Index Clear Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Facial Wash with Salicylic Acid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Milk Enriched Facial Cleanser (Clear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Foaming Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 SkinTonic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Glistening Body Cologne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Light Face Fluid with Emulgade PL 68/50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Facial Cleansing Gel with Gluadin WO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 78 Lipcare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Liposome Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Lipstick with Miglyol Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Creamy Lipstick Base (With AHA-Ester) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 84 Lip Stick with Softisan Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Lip Care Stick with SPF ca.6 Lipstick with Timiron MP-60, MP-65 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 85 Blackstar Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Crystal Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Water-in-Oil Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Liquid Foundation with Extender W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Liquid Foundation with Low Lustre Pigment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 89 Liquid Makeup Formulation-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Long Lasting Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Care Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Luxurious Makeup (W/O) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Makeup Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Make-up Remover (Liquid Crystal Gel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 93 Make up Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Milk Creme with Monasil PCA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 Pump Dispensible Luxurious Body Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Moisturizing Milk Creme Lotion F-712 with Silicone PLN and High Fragrance Level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Flowable Moisturizing Milk Creme F-713 with High Fragrance Level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Nonionic Liquid Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Moisturizing Skin Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Oil-in-Water Hydro-Gel for Sensitive Skin (Page 1) Oil-in-Water Hydro-Gel for Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . 98 98 Hydrating Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil-in-Water Hydro-Gel for Sensitive Skin (Page 2) Oil-in-water Moisturizing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Oil-in-Water Milk with "Natural" Preservative . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100

Contents and Subject Index

xiii

Oil-in-Water Moisturising Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Powder Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 102 Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Pressed Powder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Purifying Clay Face Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 106 Rejuvenating Skin Gel (Aqueous) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Replenishing Milk Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Skin Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Skin Gel(O/W) with ASC I l l . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 111 Skin Rejuvenating Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleansing Emulsion for Towelettes (With AHA Ester) . . . . . . . 111 Skin Smoother Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Liposome Serum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Sparkling Skin Moisturizing Fluid with Microcapsules . . . . . . . . 113 114 Super Moisturizing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Timiron Silk Color Corrector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Under Eye Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 116 Skin Smoother Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Undereye and Spot Concealer Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 119 Water-in-Oil Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Oil-in Water Tropic Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water-in-Oil-in-Water Face Moisturiser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Waterproof Special Effects Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 SECTION V CREAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 All Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Cold Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Anti-Cellulite Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Antiwrinkle Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 125 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cold Cream ( O M ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Handcream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 126 Ointment Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Oil-in-Water High Mineral Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Cream, O W .with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Cream, O W .with Protectan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 129 Cream. Type O W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream O W for Daycare of Oily Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Cream. Type O W .with Phytodermin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Cream. Type W/O. with Phytodermin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 O W Basic Cream with AHA-Esters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131

xiv

Contents and Subject Index Facecream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 High Gloss Cream. Type O W .with Liposomes . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Cream with Citric Acid Ester and Glycerol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 High Gloss Cream. Type W/O. with Almond Oil . . . . . . . . . . . 134 134 Care Cream with Skin Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light Moisturizing Cream for Dry Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Light Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Moisturizing Cream Cold Process W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137 Barrier Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Moisturizing Day Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Moisturizing Milk Creme with Monasil PLN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Moisturizing Milk Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Moisturizing Milk Creme Variation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Moisturizing Milk Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 141 Moisturizing Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multi-functional Day Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 143 Enriched Night Cream (W/O) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 144 Facial Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Night Cream W/O with Regeneration Effect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Night Foundation Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 All Purpose Cream. Hand & Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Oil-in-Water Dimethicone Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 148 Oil-in-Water Natural Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil-in-Water Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Oil-in-Water Volatile Silicone Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 152 Optimal Face Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rejuvenating Skin (OnU) Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Shower Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 154 Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Emollient Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 156 Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Soft Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Emollient Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Soft Cream. Type W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Cream, Type O W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Ultra-Moisturizing Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 164 Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water-in-Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165

Contents and Subject Index

W/O Basic Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Protective Cream with Silicone Fluid (With AHA-Ester) W/O Cream with Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Handcream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Light Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Light Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

xv

166

. . 166 167 167 168 168

SECTION VI: HAIR CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Aerosol Fine Fragrance Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Men's Finishing Fragrance Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 171 Aerosol Fragrance Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Blow-Dry Styling Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Water Based Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clarifying and Volumizing Hair Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 174 Clear Conditioning Hair Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Antidandruff Hair Tonic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Clear Conditioning Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Cream Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Clear Extra Conditioning Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Cream Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 177 Clear Gel Activator/Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethnic Hair Care Extra Conditioning Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Clear Silicone Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 178 Cream Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Gel Hair Conditioning Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Creme Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 180 Hair Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Creme Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 181 Monasil PCA Hair Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Ethnic Hair Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearled . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Ethnic Hair Glosser/Extra Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Ethnic Pump Spray Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 184 Hair Brushing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Hair Conditioner Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 185 Hair Conditioner Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Dressing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Ethnic Hair Care Leave-In Moisturizing/Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Hair Relaxers 187 Hair Relaxer D-51 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Relaxer D-52 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Hair and Scalp Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188

mi

Contents and Subject Index Hair Styling Cream with Natural Oils & Conditioners . . . . . . . . 189 Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Hard Hold Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 191 Neutralizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Crystal Clear Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Hydrogen Peroxide Emulsions Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 193 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 StylinglConditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Medium Hold. 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Firm Hold. 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Mild Fortified Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 196 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Permanent Wave Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Neutralizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Spray Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 199 Spray-on Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Spray Detangler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Comb Through Glosser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Temporary Hair Color Gel W/Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 200 Blackstar Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Washable Crew Cut Wax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Clear Hair Conditioner Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Cream Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Water-in-Oil Hair Dressing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 202 Oil-in-Water Hair Dressing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55% VOC Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 80% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203

SECTION VII: LOTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Body Lotion. Type O W ,with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex . . . . 206 Flowable Moisturizing Milk Creamy Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 207 Monasil PCA Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 tight Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 211 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dry Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Lotion for Very Dry Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212

Contents and Subject Index

xvii

Low Cost Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Moisture Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Lotion 214 Moisturizing Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Monasil PCA Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Non-Greasy W/O Mineral Oil Free Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Water-in-Silicone Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 OMI Body Lotion. Cold Processing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 217 Light O W Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . OMI Lotion for Spray Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Soft O N Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Oil-in-Water Stearic Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Silky Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 221 Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisture Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Solar Protection Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 223 Ultra-AHA Moisturizing Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vanishing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 226 Velvet Care Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O W AHA Lotion with Lactic Acid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Water-in-Oil Cleansing Lotion with Ethanol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Hydroalcoholic Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Water-ln-Oil Mineral Oil Lotions Gel Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Water-in-Oil Mineral Oil Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 229 Water-in-Oil Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SECTION VIII: SHAMPOOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Zinc Pyrithione . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Clear and Milk Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Coconut Shampoo (35% Real Soap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .233 Coconut-Oleic Shampoo (35% Real Soap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 234 Creamshampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Crystal Clear Conditioning Shampoos Crystal Clear Luxury Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 Crystal Clear Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 236 Deodorizing Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning Shampoo for Treated Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .236 Frequent Use Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 237 Daily Use Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gentle Everyday Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238

xviii

Contents and Subject Index

Self-Adjusting Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 239 Gentle Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Hair and Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 High Performance Low Irritation Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 Low Irritation Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .241 LOW-Cost Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 243 Mild Shampoo with Panthenol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Mink Oil Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243 Neutralizing Conditioning Ethnic Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Milk Anti-Dandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Pearled Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 Clear Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 Clear Gel Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 246 Pearlized Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Salon-Style Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 247 Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Shampoo with Evening Primrose Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 251 Temporary Color-In Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Two in One Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Two-ln-One Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . All in One Shampoo/Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Ultra Mild Conditioning Shampoo with Suspended Mica . . . . . . 254

SECTION IX: SHAVING PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Aerosol Shave Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 Nonionic Aerosol Shave Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 After Shave Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Aftershave Gel with Peppermint and Tea Tree Oil . . . . . . . . . . 258 Experimental Shaving Cream Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259 260 Gel Shave Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pre-electric Shave Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Oil-in-Water After-Shave Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Shave Cream Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 Electric Preshave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 263 Shave Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SECTION X: SOAPS AND HAND CLEANERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Antibacterial Handcleaner: Hospital Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Antibacterial Handcleaner: Shop Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265

Contents and Subject Index

xix

Antibacterial Handcleaner: Off ice Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Waterless Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Antibacterial Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 Mild Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 268 Antimicrobial Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Application for Soaps and Syndet Bars Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 269 Transparent Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conconut-Soya Hand Soap (15% Real Soap) . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Soya Scrub Soap (15% Real Soap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .270 Cream Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 Solid Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 D-Limonene Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Waterless Hand Cleaner with d-Limonene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 273 Hand and Body Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Economy Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Heavy Duty Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Combo Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Hot Pour Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Liquidsoap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 LiquidHandSoap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 Coconut-Oleic Hand Soap (15% Real Soap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 279 Liquid Hand Soap w/Aloe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Deodorant Hand Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 Luxury Liquidsoap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Liquid Hand Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 281 Mild Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hot-Pour Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 Opaque Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Transparent Toilet Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Pearlized Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 284 Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Surgical Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 Toilet Soap Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Floating Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Pine Oil Hand Soap (15% Real Soap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Ultra-Waterless Hand Cleaner with Abrasive . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 Waterless Hand Cleaner Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 288 d-Limonene Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

rn

Contents and Subject Index

SECTION XI: SUN CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Clear Liquid Sunblock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 Dry Touch Physical Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291 Enriched Moisturizing Lotion (Before & After Tanning) . . . . . . . 292 Sunscreen Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 Microfine Titanium Dioxide Sunscreen ( O N ) Lotion Broad Spectrum UVNUVB Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Microfine Titanium Dioxide Sunscreen (W/O) Lotion Broad Spectrum UVNUVB Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Microfine Titanium Dioxide Sunscreen (WlO) Lotion SPF 11 Broad Spectrum UVNUVB Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 Oil and Emulsifier Free Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotions UV-3 (SPF 6) . . . . . . . . . . 297 297 UV-4(SPF15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Creams UV-1 (SPF 6) . . . . . . . . 298 UV-2(SPF15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 Oil-in-Water Sun Milk with High SPF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 Oil-in-Water Sun Protection Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Oil-in-Water Sun Protective Cream with "Natural" Sun Filter . . 301 Self Tanning Cream W/UV Filter ( O W )SPF 19.O/UVA PF 9.5 (Sun Protection Factor. Diffey Method) . . . . . . . . . 302 302 Sunscreen Cream SPF 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Self Tanning Cream W/UV Filter ( O N ) SPF 20.5/UVA PF 8.5 (Sun Protection Factor. Diffey Method) . . . . . . . . . 303 Sunscreen Cream SPF 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 304 Self Tanning Lotion ( O N ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Self Tanning Lotion (W/O) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Self Tanning Milk ( O M ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 Leave-On Hair Treatment Spray with Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . 305 306 Sunblock Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Ti02 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SPF 12 Sunscreen Liposome Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 PABA Free Milk & Honey Sunscreen Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .307 Sun Care Emulsion SPF (Calculated) approx. 15 . . . . . . . . . . 308 308 Sunscreen Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sun Care Lotion with Hydagen CMF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .309 Sun Protection Emulsion for Spray-Application LSF/SPF 309 (Colipa) 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sun Protection Cream (W/O) SPF 22 (Sun Protection Factor. Colipa Method with 5 Volunteers) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .310 Sun Protection Emulsion for Spray Application SPF (COLIPA) 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 After Sun with Panthenol for Spray Application . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 1

Contents and Subject Index

xxi

Sun Protection Gel (aqueous) SPF 10 (Sun Protection Factor FDA-Method with 5 Volunteers) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .312 Sun Protection Lotion (W/O) SPF 20 (Sun Protection Factor. Colipa Method with 5 Volunteers) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 Sun Protection Lotion ( O W ) SPF 23 (Sun Protection Factor. Colipa Method with 5 Volunteers) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .314 314 Self Tanning Milk (W/O) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Cream UV-6 (SPF 6) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 UV-7(SPF15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 Sunscreen Emulsion. Type OW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 316 Clear Sunscreen Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Emulsion with Titanium Dioxide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Sunscreen Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 320 Sunscreen Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Gel SPF 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Sunscreen Gel SPF 10 (Aqueous-Alcoholic) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322 323 Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Waterproof Sunscreen Cream (SPF 19) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 Sunscreen ( O W ) Lotion SPF 16) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326 Sunscreen ( O W )Lotion SPF 17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327 Sunscreen (W/O) Lotion SPF 20 Broad Spectrum 328 UVNUVB Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen (W/O) Lotion SPF 23 Broad Spectrum UVNUVB Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329 Sunscreen (W/O) Lotion SPF 30 Waterproof Broad Spectrum 330 UVNUVB Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Titanium Dioxide Based Water Resistant Sunscreen (SPF 22) . 331 Waterproof Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332 Waterproof Suntan Lotion SPF 17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 Moisturizing Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 334 Cooling After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 335 Water-ln-Oil Sunscreen SPF 26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water Resistant Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 Water-Resistant Sunscreen Lotion SPF 24 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 338 W/O Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O N Lotion with SPF 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 Zinc Oxide Sunscreen Cream (PABNOxybenzone Free) 339 Estimated SPF=20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Zinc Oxide Sunscreen (Measured SPF=9.2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 340 Milk and Honey Sunscreen Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

mii

Contents and Subject Index

SECTION XII: MISCELLANEOUS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 342 Bacitracin Ointment(0W) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrocortisone Ointment ( O M ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342 343 Children's Dentrifrice Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Emollient Microemulsion (With AHA-Ester) . . . . . . . . . . 344 Penetrating Massage Oil (With AHA-Ester) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Emulsion. Type O W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345 Microgel. Soft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345 High Cleaning Dentifrice Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 Insect Repellent Cream (W/O) with UV-Filter . . . . . . . . . . . . .347 Insect Repellent Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 Men's Alcohol-Free Cologne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348 Mineral Oil Emulsion Containing Ethanol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .349 349 Hydrophilic Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 Moderate Abrasivity Dentifrice Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multiple Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351 Peppermint Foot Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352 353 Silicone Emulsion, Type W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silicone Emulsion. Type O/W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353 354 Skin Soothing Ointment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lactylate Based Barrier Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 S.T.Tonic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355 356 Stearyl Alcohol Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Washable Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357 SECTION XIII: TRADE-NAMED RAW MATERIALS SECTION XIV: SUPPLIERS' ADDRESSES

. . . . . . . . . . 358

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394

Section I Antiperspirants and Deodorants

2

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

A n t i p e r s p i r a n t Gel W i t h 20% A c t i v e A l / Z r Ingredients: Phase A : D 1 i l i e t ~ l ~ c G : lC e o p o i y ~ l ( a n d : C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 EM 9 7 ) Cyc1ometh;cone ( A b i l B 8 8 3 9 ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P: Dimethicone (Abi I 50) D i m e t h i c o n e C0p0ly01 ( A b i l B 8852) S t e a r y l H e p t a n o a t e ( T e g o s o f t SH) Phase B : A l umi num Z i r c o n i urn T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x G l y ( 4 6 % solution) SD Alcohol 4 0 Propylene ~ l y c o l Water D i p r o p y 1 ene Gl y c o 1

V[ tR

2.40 13.80

0.50 0.80 0 .a o 0.T5

43.50 2.50

14.30 10.65

10.00

Procedure: 1 . Add t n e r a w m a t e r i a l s o f P h a s e A , i n i x i n g to u n i f o r m t y a t room t empe r a t u r e m i x i ng 2 . Add t h e r a w m a t e r i a l s o f P h a s e B t o a s e c o n d v e s s e l t o u n i f o r m i t y . The a c t i v e s a l t s h o u l d b e m i x e d t o a c l e a r , colorless solution. 3 . Measure t h e r e f r a c t i v e l n d i c e s o f b o t h p h a s e s . A d j u s t Phase B w i t h e i t h e r p i - o p y l e n e g l y c o l or w a t e r t o m a t c h t h e r e f r a c t i v e i n d e x o f P h a s e A . The r e f r a c t i v e I n d i c e s s h o u l d a g r e e to t h e f o u r t h d e c i m a i p i a c e f o r tota.1 c l a r i t y . 4 . S l o w l y s t r e a m Phase B i n t o Phase A w i t h s l o w ( 300r pm ) m u l t i b l a d e m i x i n g . The a d d i t i o n r a t e s h o u l d m a t c h t h e a g i t a t i o n , not a l l o w i n g t h e w a t e r to p o o l o n t h e e m u l s i o n s u r f a c e . A f t e r t h e a d d i t i o n o f t h e w a t e r phase i s c o m p l e t e , i n c r e a s e t h e a g i t a t i o n r a t e to 1 , 2 0 0 rpin f o r a f e w m i n u t e s . T h i s w i l l b u i l d t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e m i x t u r e to a l o w v i s c o s i t y , flowing gel. 5 . Homogenize t h e m i x t u r e a t a ? O W r a t e . M i x until a f i r m (shearable) gel i s obtained.

.

SOURCE: Go1 d s c h m i d t Chemi c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i ons

Antiperspirants and Deodorants

3

Deodorant Gel With 25% Active ACH Inaredients: Phase A: Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Cyclomethicone (Abil EM 9 7 ) Cyclomethicone (Abil B 8 8 3 9 ) Isopropyl Palmitate (Tegosoft P) Dimethicone (Abil 5 0 ) Phenyl Trimethicone (Abil AV 20) Dimethicone Copolyol (Abil B 8 8 5 2 ) Stearyl Heptanoate (Tegosoft SH)

2.40 13.80 0.50 0.80 0.50 0.80 0.75

Phase B: Aluminum Chlorohydrate (50% solution) SD Alcohol 40 Sorbito1 Propylene Glycol Water Dipropylene Glycol

50.00 4.00 0.50 13.95 9.00 3.00

wt%

Procedure: 1. Add the raw materials of Phase A, mixing to uniformity at room temperature. 2 . Add the raw materials of Phase B to a second vessel, mixing to uniformity. The active salt should be mixed to a clear, colorless solution. 3 . Measure the refractive indices of both phases. Adjust Phase B with either propylene glycol or water to match the refractive index of Phase A. The refractive indices should agree to the fourth decimal place for total clarity. 4. Slowly stream Phase B into Phase A with slow ( 3 0 0 rpm) multiblade mixing. The addition rate should match the agitation, not allowing the water to pool on the emulsion surface. After the addition of the water phase is complete, increase the agitation rate to 1 , 2 0 0 rpm for a few minutes. This will build the viscosity of the mixture to a low viscosity, flowing gel. 5 . Homogenize the mixture at a low rate. Mix until a firm (shearable) gel is obtained. SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulation

4

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Enhanced A n t i p e r s D i r a n t S t i c k A smooth f e e l i n g , h i g h p a y o u t s t i c k i n c o r p o r a t i n g a c o s t e f f e c t i v e enhanced e f f i c a c y a l u m i n u m - z i r c o n i u m a c t i v e d e m o n s t r a t i n g optimal antiperspirant efficacy.

I n g r e d i e n t s :. A_ Reach AZP-908 SUF B . Cyclomethicone (Pentamer) C. S t e a r y l Alcohol D . P r o m y r i s t y l PM-3 E. PEG-8 D i s t e a r a t e F . T a l c , 3 2 5 mesh G. S i l i c a ti. F r a g r a n c e

!VtiQ 20.0 50.5 20.0 5.0 2.0 1.0 1.5 Q . S

Procedure: 1 . Add B t o r e a c t i o n v e s s e l a n d h e a t t o 65C. 2 . Add D a n d E w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . 3 . Add C s l o w l y , m a i n t a i n 65C. I n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n a n d a d d A . Mix f o r 5 minutes. 4 . Add F a n d m i x 5 m i n u t e s . 5 . Add G a n d m i x 5 m i n u t e s . 6 . Add H . U s i n g s l o w t o m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g , c o o l t o 55C and p o u r i n t o s t i c k casings. R e d u c e d VOC A n t i p e r s p i r a n t Aeroso.1 T h i s c o m p o s i t i o n was f o r m u l a t e d t o meet t h e i n t e r i m CAR6 ( C a l i f o r n i a A i r Resources Board) r e g u l a t i o n s b e g i n n i n g 12/31/92. The u s e o f a n o n - v o l a t i l e e s t e r p r o v i d e s a c l e a n e r f o r m u l a w i t h r e d u c e d r e s i d u e when c o m p a r e d t o many m a r k e t e d p r o d u c t s .

w t%

Ingredient: A . Reach 1 0 3 B . B e n t o n e G e l VS-5/PC C . D i is o p r o p y l A d i p a t e 0 . Perfume E. I s o b u t a n e

12.5 12.5 15.0 q.s 60.0

Procedure: 1 . Combine B a n d C u s i n g a n Eppenbach h o m o m i x e r a t 5 0 0 0 rpm f o r 5 minutes. 2 Add A . M i x 10 m i n u t e s . 3 . Add D a n d m i x 5 m i n u t e s . 4 . P l a c e m i x t u r e i n a s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r and c h a r g e w i t h E , a s s p e c 1 f ie d . M a c r o s p h e r i c a l 9 5 i s a recommended a l t e r n a t i v e a c t i v e .

*

SOURCE: R e h e i s ,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Antiperspirants and Deodorants

5

Enhanc~d.Anlt~rs~.i.rant..SICsp_e_~s-_i_o_!! _Ro!l=O.n A d r y r o l l - o n t h a t i n c o r p o r a t e s an enhanced e f f i c a c y aluminumz i r c o n i u m a c t i v e t h a t demonstrates o p t i m a l a n t i p e r s p i r a n t e f f ic a c y

.

Jnqmdi ents: A . Reach AZZ-902 B . Bentone 38 C . SD A l c o h o l 4 0 D. Cyclomethicone ( t e t r a m e r ) E. Fragrance

WtYO

20.0 2.7 1.8 75.5 9.s

Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e B i n t o D u s i n g Eppenbach Homomixer. Mix 2 0 m i n u t e s ; m a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e 25-35C. 2 . Add p r e - m i x o f C and E; m i x 5 m i n u t e s . 3 . Add A and m i x w i t h moderate shear u n t i l u n i f o r m . 4 . Pour i n t o s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r s . Enhanced E f f i c a c y A n t i p e r s p i r a n t S u s p e n s i o n R o l l - O n T h i s f o r m u l a employs an enhanced e f f i c a c y aluminum z i r c o n i u m tetrachlorohydrex glycine i n a superultrafine p a r t i c l e s i r e d i s t r i b u t i o n , w h i c h i s t h e most p o p u l a r f o r m o f t h e a c t i v e . H y d r o g e n a t e d p o l y i sobutene i s used t o ma1 n t a i n v i s c o s i t y b e h a v i o r o v e r t i m e and t o r e d u c e w h i t e n i n g r e s i d u e upon - a p p l i c a t i o n . Ingredients. A . Reach A Z P 908 SUF B . Bentone Gel VS-S/PC C Cyclomethicone (Tetramer) D. Panalane L - 1 4 E ( h y d r o g e n a t e d p o l y i s o b u t e n e ) E Silica F . Fragrance

Wt%

20.00 13.50 3 5 25 30.00 0 50 0.75

Procedure: 1 . M i x B and C w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s . 2 . Add D and mix f o r 10 m i n u t e s . 3 . Add A and m i x f o r 15 m i n u t e s 4 . Add E and F . M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s . 5 . Homogenize f o r a p p r o x i m a t e l y 4 m i n u t e s and p o u r i n t o s u i t a b l e containers.

SOURCE: R e h e i s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

6

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Non Whi t e n i n g A n t i p e r s p i r a n t Cream Wt% 3.2 1.8 2.0 5.0

Ingredients: A B r i ] 721S, S t e a r e t h - 2 1 B r i ] 72, S t e a r e t h - 2 A t l a s 1500, G l y c e r o l m o n o s t e a r a t e C e t y l a l c o h o l , N.F. Arlamol ISML, Isosorbide Laurate F l o r a s u n 9 0 , H y b r i d S u n f l o w e r Seed O i l Cow C o r n i n g 344 f l u i d , C y c l o m e t h i c o n e

2.5 0.5 4.0

B Water

23.8

C Rezal 3 6 G , Aluminum z i r c o n i u m t e t r a c h l o r h y d r o x g l y c i n e (35% s o l u t i o n )

57.1

D Preservative,

D o w i c i l 200

0.1

Preparation: H e a t ( A ) t o 7DC a n d ( 8 ) t o 72C. H e a t ( C ) t o 60C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h g o o d a g i t a t i o n , When (AB) i s u n i f o r m s l o w l y a d d ( C ) . M i x w e l l . When t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s t o 35C, a d d ( D ) a n d a n y w a t e r t h a t was l o s t d u e t o e v a p o r a t i o n . F o r m u l a C P 1178 Water-in-01 1 A n t i p e r s p i r a n t

Cream

Ingredients: A A r l a m o l HD i s o h e x a d e c a n e C a p r y I ic C a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e s A r l a m o l E PPG 1 5 s t e a r y l e t h e r Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l A r l a c e 1 P135 PEG 3 0 d i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e

W t Yo 14.7 7.35 7.35 2.0 4.0

B 5 0 % a1 umi num c h l o r o h y d r a t e s o l u t i o n

40.0 24.3

Water C Preservative

q.s.

Preparation: H e a t ( A ) t o 70C a n d ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) , m i x w e l l , homogenize f o r a few m i n u t e s . C o n t i n u e r e g u l a r s t i r r i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e a s p e r m a n u f a c t u r e r ' s i n s t r u c t i o n s . Replace water l o s t by evaporation. F o r m u l a CP 1203

SOURCE:

ICI

Surfactants:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Antiperspirants and Deodorants

_ O_ i 1-in-Water Roll -on A n t i - P e r s p i r a n t

WB t

Innredients: A . A r l a t o n e 983 B r i j 76 A r l a m o l HD Arlamol S7 A r l a m o l M812 L o r o l C16*

2.0 2.0 8.0 3.0 5.0 0.5

B. Locron P*

20 * 0

C . A t l a s G-2330 Propylene g l y c o l Preservatives Water

1.25 1 .25 9,s. 57.0

D . Perfume

4.s.

Manufacture: 1 . Heat A and C s e p a r a t e l y t o 7 0 C . 2 . Add A t o C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 3 . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e . 4 . Add B t o t h i s e m u l s i o n s l o w l y w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 5 , Homogeni s e a g a i n . 6 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y . 7 . Add p e r f u m e . Comments: Viscosity:

20,000 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L.VT,

s p i n d l e E,

6 rpm)

L o r o l C16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l , INC1)-Henkel L o c r o n P (Aluminum C h l o r o h y d r a t e , INC1)-Hoechst F o r m u l a t i o n F44-12-4

_______ C1 e a r Pumpabl e A n t i p e r s p i r a n t Inqredients: A l c o h o l , SDA F o r m u l a No. 40 A r l a m o l E pop 1 5 s t e a r y l e t h e r Aluminum C h l o r h y d r a t e ( 5 0 % s o l u t i o n ) Water, d e i o n i z e d

yt% 50

5 40

5

Preparation: D i s s o l v e A r l a m o l E p o l y o x y p r o p y l e n e 15 s t e a r y l e t h e r i n a l c o h o l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , and s t i r u n t i l c l e a r . S l o w l y add aluminum c h l o r h y d r a t e and w a t e r , s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Package. F o r m u l a t i o n AE-12

SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

7

8

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Roll-On Antiperspirant Raw Materials: Miglyol 8 1 2 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Imwitor 780K (Isostearyl Diglyceryl Succinate) Softisan Gel (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate)

A)

B) Carbopol 9 8 0 Gel 1% Abil WE 0 9 (Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Hexyl Laurate) Locron L (Aluminum Chlorohydrate) Preservative Water, up to C) Deosafe Perfume 75 4 2 8 N/I

wtg 8.50

5.00 2.00 12.50 0.50 1.00 q.s. 100.00 1.00

Preparation: (A) is heated up to 50 degrees C and mixed. (B) is mixed and heated up to the same temperature. (B) is emulsified into ( A ) . At 40 degrees C, (C) is added. Formulation 1.5X Deo Antiperspirant Spray with Aerosol Raw Materials: A ) Miglyol 8 1 2 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Hydagen DEO (Triethyl Citrate (and) EHT) Locron P (Aluminum Chlorohydrate) Aerosil 2 0 0 (Silica) Perfume B) Drivosol 35* (Propane, Isopropane, Butane

*Filling: Lotion: 8 % Drivosol: 92%, 3 . 5 bar Preparation: (A) is mixed together thoroughly. Formulation 1.5W

SOURCE: Creanova I n c . : Suggested Formulations

Wt% 2.00 2.00 3.00 0.10

q.s.

q.s.

Antiperspirants and Deodorants

9

Rol 1 -on A n t i spir-ant...l o t i o n

. ..

~~

WK0h

--. Ingredients: ~~

A r l a m o l E pop 1 5 s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 1 poe 2 1 s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 72 poe 2 s t e a r y l e t h e r B . Water, d e i o n i z e d C. Preservative D. Aluminum Z i r c o n i u m T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x (35% s o l u t i o n )

4.00 0.76 3.24 34.86

A.

q.s. GLY

57.14

Preparation: Heat ( A ) t o 7OC and ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( 6 ) between 5 0 - 6 O C . Add ( D ) a t 45C. S t i r t o 35C and r e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n . Formulation Notes: The a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t i s 20% o f t h e f o r m u l a . Stability: The Formula i s s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t f o u r weeks a t 5 C , 40C, 50C, and f o u r f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s . V i scosi t y : The v i s c o s i t y o f t h e formLila a f t e r orie week a t 25C was 1 , 7 6 0 c p s . A f t e r e l e v e n weeks i t was 3 , 3 2 8 c p s . Formul a AE-13 A n t i p e r s p i r a n t Roll-on L o t i o n w i t h Isosorbide Monolaurate Ingredients. A r l a m o l E pop 1 5 s t e a i y l e t h e r A r l d m o l I S M L i s o s o r b i d e monolaur-ate B r 1 ) 7 2 1 poe 2 1 s t e a r y l etherB r i ] 72 poe 2 s t e a r y l e t h e r B Water, d e i o n i z e d C Aluminum Z i r c o n i u m T e t r a c h i o i o h y d r e x G L Y ( 5 0 % aqueous s o 1 u t 1 on ) D Preservative A

Wt% 3 0

2.0 1 4 2 6 51 0 40.0 q s

Preparation: Heat ( A ) t o 7 0 C and ( 6 ) t o 72C Add ( € 3 ) t o ( A ) i i s i n y a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r . Add ( C ) t o a b o u t 50C and ( D ) a t 45C A t 35C r e p l a c e water l o s t by eVdpOrdtiOri and pat;kage Stability: T h i s f o r m u l a i s s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t f o u r weeks a t 5 C , 2 5 C , 40C and f o r f o u r f r e e z e - t h a w c v c l e s . Viscosity: The v i s c 0 s i t . y o f t h e f o r m u l a a f t e r one week a t 25C was 2 , 9 6 0 c p s . A f t e r f o u r weeks i t was 2 , 6 0 0 c p s . Formula AE-14

SOURCE:

ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

70

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

R m - O n Antiperspirants A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e i s a l s o f u n c t i o n a l a s a n e m o l l i e n t i n r o l l - o n f o r m u l a s d u e t o i t s p l e a s a n t f e e l on t h e s k i n a n d c o m p a t i b i l i t y w i t h t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s . The f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a i l l u s t r a t e s i t s use w i t h aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e . ACH F o r m u l a

Wt%

I m r e d ients: A . A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d m o n o l a u r a t e A r l a m o l E , POP ( 1 5 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 1 , POE ( 2 1 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 , POE ( 2 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r

3.0 3.0 1.5 2.5

B . Water

49.0

C.

A l u m i n u m c h l o r o h y d r a t e (50?0 s o l u t i o n )

D.

P r e s e r v a t iv e

40.0 1.o

Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n : H e a t A t o 70C a n d B t o 7 2 C. Add B t o A u s i n g a p r o p e l l e r . Add C a t a b o u t 50C a n d D a t a b o u t 4 5 C. A t 35C a d d w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . S t a b i 1 it y : The a b o v e f o r m u l a i s s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t f o u r weeks a t 40C and 50C a n d f o r a t l e a s t f o u r f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s . I t h a s a v i s c o s i t y o f 2240 c p s . a t 25C. A1 z r T e t r a c h l o r o t h y d r e x - G L Y

Form-

Ingredients: A . Arlamol ISML, isosorbide monolaurate A r l a m o l E , POP ( 1 5 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 1 , POE ( 2 1 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 , POE ( 2 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r 8 . Water

Wt% 4.0 3.0 1.5 2.5 48.0

C.

A1 Z r T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x - g l y

D.

Preservative

(50% a q u e o u s s o l u t i o n )

40.0

1.

o

Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n : H e a t A t o 70C a n d B t o 7 2 C. Add B t o A u s i n g a p r o p e l l e r . Add C a t a b o u t 50C a n d D a t a b o u t 45C. A t 35C a d d w a t e r t o c o m p e n s a t e f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . S t a b i 1 it y : T h i s f o r m u l a i s s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t f o u r weeks a t 5C, 25C, 40C, a n d f o r f o u r f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s .

SOURCE: ICI

Surfactants:

Arlamol

ISML

Suggested Formulations

Antiperspirants and Deodorants

11

R o l l on D e o d o r a n t E m u l s i o n Component: I.Emulgade S E / G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 Ceteareth-12 (and) C e t e a r y l Alcohol (and) C e t y l Palmi t a t e Eumulgin B 2/Ceteareth-20 C e t i o l LC/Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Cet io l O E / D i c a p r y l y l E t h e r Hydagen C . A . T . / T r i e t h y l C i t r a t e I I . W a t e r , deion.

(and) 4.5 1. o 5.0 5.0 2.0 73.5

I I I . C a r b o p o 1 980 ( 2 % s o l . ) NaOH ( 1 % s o l . )

7.5 1.5

9.s. Preservative V i s c o s i t y , mPas: 4400 B r o o k f i e l d , 23C pH-Value: 5 Preparation i n the Laboratory: 1 . Heat phase I t o 85C and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 2 . Heat phase I 1 t o 85C and s t i r s l o w l y i n t o phase I , e m u l s i f y f o r 5 min. 3. Allow t h e emulsion t o cool w i t h s t i r r i n g , a v o i d i n g t h e incorporation o f ai r . 4 . Add phase 111 a t 30C. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 93/060/23

Antiperspirant S p r ~ Component: Wt% I.Emulgade S E / G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 ( a n d ) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) C e t y l Palmi t a t e 4.5 1.o Eumul g i n B 2 / C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 C e t i o l LC/Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 5.0 C e t i o l OE/Dicapryl Ether 5.0 I I . W a t e r , demin. 15.8 I I I . W a t e r , demin. 48.7 1V.Locron L 20.0 Aluminum C h l o r o h y d r a t e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , Perfume q.s. pH-Val ue: 4 . 2 V i s c o s i t y , 23C, mPas, B r o o k f i e l d : < l o 0 Preparation i n t h e Laboratory: 1 . Heat phase I t o 85C and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 2 . Heat phase I 1 t o 85C and s t i r s l o w l y i t n o phase I. 3 . S t i r phase I 1 1 ( w h i c h i s a t room t e m p e r a t u r e ) s l o w l y i n t o t h e h o t e m u l s i o n 1/11 ( 8 0 C ) . 4 . A l l o w t h e e m u l s i o n t o c o o l w i t h s t i r r i n g i n such a way t h a t i t remains i n c o n t i n u a l m o t i o n . Avoid i n c o r p o r a t i o n o f a i r . Add phase I V a t 30C. Formul a t i on N o . : F - l 7 2 4 / 3 0 2 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

72

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Stick Antiperspirants A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e i s a n e x c e l l e n t c h o i c e f o r an e m o l l i e n t i n a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s y s t e m s . I n s t i c k f o r m u l a s i t p r o v i d e s a s m o o t h , d r y f e e l a n d shows d r a m a t i c i m p r o v e m e n t i n a n t i - w h i t e n i n g and a n t i - f l a k i n g c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s p r o v e n b y p a n e l s t u d i e s . I n t h e f o r m u l a below c o n t a i n i n g aluminum c h l o r ohydrate, t h e e f f i c a c y improved w i t h t h e presence o f Arlamol ISML v s . t h e c o n t r o l w i t h o u t i t .

I n g r e d i e_ns;-t C y c l o m e t h i cone A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e Stearyl alcohol A 1 umi num c h l o r o h y d r a t e p o w d e r Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l

wts/, 45.0 10.0 15.0

25.0 5.0

Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n f o r A n t i p e r s p i r a n t S t i c k s : H e a t A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e , s t e a r y l a l c o h o l , a n d h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l t o 70C o r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d . S l o w l y add a n t i p e r s p i r a n t a c t i v e w i t h s t i r r i n g w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g 70C. When a n t i p e r s p i r a n t a c t i v e i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , remove f r o m h e a t a n d c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s t o 60C. A t t h i s p o i n t a d d t h e c y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a t 6 0 C ) t o t h e m i x t u r e , s t i r w e l l , add f r a g r a n c e and p o u r i n t o s t i c k s l u s t b e f o r e m i x t u r e s e t s up. Cool r a p i d l y t o a v o i d any s e t t i n g o f dispersed antiperspirant active. E x c e l l e n t a p p l i c a t i o n , a n t i -whi t e n 1 n g , and a n t i - f l a k i n g p r o p e r t i e s r e s u l t e d w i t h t h e f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a (compared t o a c o n t r o l w i t h o u t A r l a m o l ISML e m o l l i e n t ) c o n t a i n i n g a l u m i n u m z i r c o n i u m t e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x - g l y as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t . E f f i c a c y s t u d 1 es were n o t d e t e r m i ned ~. Ingr

edients: Cvclomethicone A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e A1 Z r T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x - g l y S t e a r y l a1 c o h o 1 Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l Fragrance

SOURCE:

ICI

Americas:

ARLAMOL ISML S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

WJ c/, 48.5

10.0 20.0 16.0

5.0 0.5

Section ll

Baby Products

13

74

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Ba by_

Cream

Concept S t a t e m e n t : A r i c h e m o l l i e n t cream c o n t a i n i n g I S L f o r m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s s u i t a b l e f o r baby s k i n . _I n x e d i.en3.s:.

1. 2. 3. 4.

R i t a EGMS ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ) Stearic Acid Mineral O i 1 R i t a w a x ALA ( C e t y l A c e t a t e a n d A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n Alcohol) 5. Ritalan (Lanolin O i l ) 6 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 7 . Propyl paraben 8 . P a t i o n i c ISL ( S o d i u m I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 1 0 . P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 1 1 .TEA 50% 12.Methylparaben 13.Germall I 1

Wt% 9.00 2.00 8.00 1.oo 1.oo 0.50 0.10 2.00 73.60 1.50 0.90 0.20 0.20

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 8 a n d h e a t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 9 - 1 3 a n d h e a t t o 70C. Add o i l t o w a t e r a n d m i x u n t i l c o o l . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 1 2 3 - 1 0 Baby Shampoo Concept S t a t e m e n t : A s u p e r m i l d shampoo f o r g e n t l e c l e a n i n g . s h i n y a n d e a s y t o comb. Ingredients:

1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 2 8 % ) 3 . L a u r a m i d e DEA 4 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 5. Ritabate-20 (Polysorbate-20) 6 . R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l ) 7. Methylparaben 8 . Sucrose Cocoate 9 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25%) 1 0 . P a t l a c LA ( L a c t i c A c i d )

Makes h a i r s o f t , Wt% 55.90 30.00 5.00 2.00 2.00 0.50 0.10 3.00

1 .oo

0,50

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : H e a t i t e m 1 t o 70C. Add i t e m s 2 t o 8 , i n o r d e r , b r i n g i n g t h e t e m p e r a a t u r e b a c k t o 70C a f t e r e a c h a d d i t i o n a n d s t i r u n t i l c l e a r . Cool t o 40C. Add i t e m 9 . Add i t e m 10 t o a d j u s t pH b e t w e e n 6.5-7.0. F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 1 2 3 - 1 1 SOURCE: R i t a C o r p . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Baby Products

15

B a b y Hair Conditioner Formulation

Natrosol HEC provides a rich appearance to this product by raising the viscosity from less than 100 to 3,400 cps (mPas). This crystal-clear conditioner provides gentle conditioning, detangles, and allows easy wet and dry combing. Inqredients: Natrosol 250HHR CS Water Cetrimonium chloride ( 2 5 % ) Lauramine oxide (30%) Polyquaternium-17 ( 6 2 % ) Propylene glycol Perfume, preservative

Wt%

1.0 74.1 12.2 10.2

1.5 1.0 q.s. to 100.0

Procedure: 1. Disperse Natrosol in water with good agitation. Mix until fully dissolved. 2. Add the remaining ingredients in the order listed, mixing well between additions. (Brookfield viscosity at 30 rpm, 25C=3,420 cps [mPasl) SOURCE: Aqualon Division, Hercules Inc.: Suggested Formulation B a b y ShamDOO

Clear, 14.9% active ingredient Raw Materials: Genapol LRO liquid (Sodium Laureth Sulfate)

Wt%

A:

15.00

B: Genapol AMG (Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamide Sulfate) Fragrance Water Dyestuff solution Preservative Extrapon chamomile special Gelita Sol C (Hydrolyzed Collagen) Genagen CAB (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)

20.00

C: Genapol L-3 (Laureth-3) Procedure: 1. Stir the components of B one after another into A. 2 . If necessary adjust the pH. 3 . Finally adjust the viscosity with C. SOURCE: Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft: Formulation B I/4036

0.30

48.60

q.s. q.s. 2.00

1.00 12.00 1.10

16

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Baby Lotion

Concept Statement: A light baby lotion combining the emollience of Ritalan, Ritachol and Ritawax, with Pationic ISL, for additional moisturization. Wtrg Inqredients: 1. Rita GMS (Glyceryl Stearate) 3.00 2. Pationic SSL (Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate) 2.00 3. Ritalan (Lanolin Oil) 3.00 4. Ritachol (Mineral Oil and Lanolin Alcohol) 10.00 5. Ritawax ALA (Cetyl Acetate and Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol ) 1.00 6. Propylparaben 0.10 7. Pationic ISL (Sodium Isostearoyl Lactylate) 2.00 8. Distilled/Deionized Water 74.70 4.00 9. Propylene Glycol 10.Methylparaben 0.20 11.Germall I1 0.20 12.Fragrance 0.20 Compounding Procedure: Combine ingredients 1-7 and heat to 70C. Combine water with ingredients 9-11 and heat to 70C. Add oil phase and mix until cool. Add ingredients 12. Formulation Ref. No. 123-18B B a b y Lotion

Concept Statement: A light baby lotion containing Ritalan and Ritawax for emollience and Pationic ISL for moisturization. Inqredients: Wt% 1. Rita CA (Cetyl Alcohol) 2.00 2. Rita GMS (Glyceryl Stearate) 2.50 3. Pationic SSL (Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate) 0.75 4. Ritalan (Lanolin Oil) 3.00 5. Ritachol (Mineral Oil and Lanolin Alcohol) 6.00 6. Ritawax ALA (Cetyl Acetate and Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol ) 1.00 7. Pationic ISL (Sodium Isostearoyl Lactylate) 0.50 8. Methylparaben 0.20 9. Propylparaben 0.10 lO.Distilled/Deionized Water 79.55 11.Propylene Glycol 4.00 12.Germall I1 0.20 13.Fragrance 0.20 Compounding Procedure: Combine items 1-9 and heat to 8 0 C . Combine items 10-12 and heat to 80C. Add oil to water and mix until uniform. Allow to cool and add item 13. Formulation Ref. No. 123-24 SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp.: Suggested Formulations

Baby Products

17

B a b r Cot l-0-Q Concept S t a t a m e n t : A l i g h t baby l o t i o n c o m b i n i n g t h e e r n o l l i e n c e o f R i t a l a n , R i t a c h o l and R i t a w a x , w i t h R i t a v e n a - 5 , t o g i v e a s o f t s k i n f e e l . I n g r e d i e-nt-s;. 1 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2. Mineral O i l 3. S t e a r i c A c i d 4 . Ritalan (Lanolin O i l ) 5 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 6 . R i t a w a x ALA ( C e t y l A c e t a t e a n d A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n Alcohol ) 7 Propyl paraben 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 9 . R i t a v e n a - 5 ( H y d r o l y z e d Oat F l o u r ) 10.Propylene Glycol 1 I . T E A (50%) 12.Methylparaben 13.Germall I 1 I4.Fragrance I

Wt% 1.oo 9.00 2.00 3.00 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.10 74.70 2.00 4.00 1.60 0.20 0.20 0.20

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 7 a n d h e a t t o 7 0 C . H e a t 30% o f t h e w a t e r p o r t i o n t o 9OC a n d m i x w i t h i n g r e d i e n t 9 i n b l e n d e r . C o m b i n e r e m a i n i n g 70% o f t h e w a t e r w i t h i n g r e d i e n t s 1 0 - 1 3 a n d h e a t t o 70C. Add R i t a v e n a - 5 m i x t u r e a n d m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add o i l p h a s e a n d m i x u n t i l c o o l . Add i n g r e d i e n t 1 4 . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 1 2 3 - 9 D i a p e r Ras-h O i n t m e n t Concept S t a t e m e n t : A s o o t h i n g ointment t o reduce t h e i r r i t a t i o n o f rashes, c o m b i n i n g t h e e m o l l i e n t p r o p e r t i e s o f L a n o l i n , R i t a I P P and R i t a SSO. Ingredients; 1. Petrolatum 2 . L a n o l i n USP, X - t r a Deo 3. R i t a IPP (Isopropyl Palmitate) 4 . R i t a SSO ( S u n f l o w e r Seed O i l ) 5. Zinc Oxide

wto/c 39.20 14.30 14.30 3.60 28.60

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 4 a n d h e a t t o 65C. S l o w l y a d d i t e m 5 w h i l e m i x i n g . I f n e c e s s a r y , u s e h i g h shear m i x i n g and m i x u n t i l uni form. F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 1 2 3 - 1 2 SOURCE: R , I . T . A .

C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

18

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

B a b y Shampoo

A liquid shampoo which has a low order of eye irritation can be made by carefully selecting the detergents. In the following baby shampoo, the combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants with G-4280 produces a formula which should be mild, effective and esthetically appealing. Inqredients: A G-4280 Sodium trideceth sulfate Lauroamphodiacetate Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine Sodium laureth-13 carboxylate Water Preservative

wt% 20.0 12.0 5.0 2.5 2.0 53.5 q.s.

B PEG-150 distearate

5.0

C Citric acid

q.s.

Preparation: Mix (A) with gentle stirring and heat until homogeneous. Heat to around 60C and add (B) and continue stirring. When clear, cool and adjust pH to 6.8 with (C). Replace water lost by evaporation. Formula HC-5 Baby Shampoo

Tween 20 Polysorbate 20 has been used as an effective antiirritant for shampoos. Insredients: A Tween 20 polysorbate 20 Cocoamphodiacetate Sodium lauryl sulfate Sodium laureth sulfate PEG-150 distearate Propylene glycol Water B Citric acid

Wt%

6.0 6.0 3.0 3.0 4.0 3.0 75.0 q.s

Preparation: Mix (A) with gentle stirring and heat until homogeneous. Adjust pH to 5 . 0 to 5.5 with (B). Formula HC-6

SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations

Baby Products

19

Baby Shampoo Concept S t a t e m e n t : A g e n t l e shampoo c o n t a i n i n g R i t a t a i n e B and P a t i o n i c I S L f o r m i l d n e s s and m o i s t u r i z a t i o n . Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . Sodium Lauroamphoacetate 3 . Sodium T r i d e c e t h S u l f a t e 4 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 5 . R i t a t a i n e B (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 6 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 7 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 8 . PEG-80 S o r b i t a n L a u r a t e 9. Glydant 10. F r a g r a n c e 1 1 . C i t r i c Acid

wt.% 47.10 15.00 10.00 5.00 4.00 3.00 0.50 15.00 0.20 0.20 q.s.

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1-8 and h e a t t o 70C. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and a l l o w t o c o o l . Add i t e m s 9 and 10. A d j u s t pH w i t h i t e m 1 1 t o 6.0-6.5. F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 123-22 P e a r l i z e d Baby B a t h Concept S t a t e m e n t : A p e a r l i z e d body wash d e s i g n e d t o be g e n t l e f o r baby c a r e , c o m b i n i n g t h e m i l d n e s s o f P a t i o n i c I S L and R i t a t a i n e B . Lng-redi e n t s :

1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) Sodium T r i d e c e t h S u l f a t e ( 3 0 % ) R i t a t a i n e B (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) P e a r l i z i n g Agent R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) Glydant

%Wt 58.80 3.00 25.00 5.00 5.00 3.00 0.20

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m 1 t o 70C. Add i t e m s 2-7 w h i l e m i x i n g . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and a l l o w t o c o o l . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 1 2 3 - 1 4 A

SOURCE: R.I.T.A. C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

20

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Crystal Clear Baby ShamDoo Sandopan LS-24 and Sandobet SC are mild, multi functional surfactants. Sandobet SC, a mild amphoteric, is compatible with all ionic classes. Sandobet LS-24 is very mild and additionally acts as a hydrotrope to aid in formula stability. Sandopan LS-24 eliminates latent clouding and sludging which can be caused by adverse storage conditions. Velsan D8P-3 is an emollient ester which adds body, control and conditioning. Inqredients: Deionized Water Monamid 716 Standopol ES-50 Sandobet SC liquid Sandopan LS-24 gel Dow 193 Surfactant Germaben I1 Velsan D8P-3 liquid Fragrance

wt% 60.8 3.0 11.7 21.0

0.5 1.0 1.0 1.0 qs

Procedure: Charge first four ingredients to vessel. Heat with stirring to 62C. When melted and homogeneous, add water. Cool to room temperature with stirring. Adjust pH to 5.5 with citric acid. Add Germaben I1 and Velsan D8P3 separately with stirring. Mix until homogeneous. Propertiea: pH: 5.5-6.0 Viscosity: 1100 cps % Solids: 18 Ross Miles Foam Height: 195/188 REF: CL29-41: CHS-25 Acid Balanced Shampoo Inqredients: Ammonium Lauryl Ether Sulfate Sandopan DTC acid Cocoamidopropyl Betaine Deionized Water Fragrance Potassium Hydroxide (10%)

qt%

13.30 5.50 15.60 qs

qs qs

Procedure: Heat Ammonium Lauryl Ether Sulfate and water to 50-55C and stir until solubilized. Pre-mix Sandopan DTC acid and the Cocoamidopropyl Betaine 50-55C then add to main mix. Cool to room temperature, adjust pH to 5.0 with Potassium Hydroxide. Add water to bring up to 100%. REF: CD21-281-2F: CHS-21 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations

Baby Products

W/O

21

Baby Cream

F o r m u l a S K - 1 4 i s a w a t e r - i n - o i l z i n c o x i d e cream w h i c h f u n c t i o n s w e l l as a p r o t e c t i v e p r o d u c t . The f o r m u l a may be modified t o i n c l u d e Vitamin A, Vitamin D, antihistamines, a n a l g e s i c s , c o d l i v e r o i l o r P e r u Balsam t o p r o v i d e a d i a p e r r a s h t r e a t m e n t . T h i s cream i s e x c e p t i o n a l l y s t a b l e and s p r e a d s e a s i l y on t h e s k i n . The c o m b i n a t i o n o f S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP and A r l a c e l 186 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e i n t h e r a t i o o f 9 : l f o r m s a u n i q u e g e l base e m u l s i f i c a t i o n s y s t e m . I t p r o v i d e s a w a t e r i n - o i l e m u l s i o n w h i c h l e a v e s an u n u s u a l l y n o n g r e a s y , n o n t a c k y f i l m on t h e s k i n s u r f a c e and i m p a r t s a h i g h d e g r e e o f w a t e r r e p e l 1e n c y .

W/O Baby Cream Ingredients: 186 Sorbitol Solution, B Mineral o i l Beeswax C e r e s i n wax C Z i n c O x i d e , USP D Water Preservative

>W

A Arlacel

3.0 27.0 10.0 1.o 1.o 20-0 38.0

USP

q.s.

Preparation: ( A ) Add t h e S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n s l o w l y t o t h e A r l a c e l 186 w i t h c o n t i n u o u s a g i t a t i o n a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Add (5) t o ( A ) and h e a t t o 70C. Add (C) and mix t o u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n . Heat ( D ) t o 72C. Add ( D ) t o ( A , B, C) and m i x u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e i s r e a c h e d . Rep1 ace w a t e r 1 o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n . M i 11 t o i m p r o v e smoothness and s h e l f l i f e . A t y p i c a l m i n e r a l o i l - b a s e d baby l o t i o n i s i l l u s t r a t e d b y F o r m u l a SK-14

Baby L o t i o n mredients: A Mineral o i l Cetyl alcohol S i l i c o n e F l u i d , 1000 c s A r l a c e l 60 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e Tween 60 P o l y s o r b a t e 60 B Water

Preservative

Wt% 20.0 5.0 5.0 2.5 7.5 60.0 a.s

Preparation : Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) . S t i r u n t i l c o o l . R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n . Formula SK-I 5

SOURCE:

I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Section Ill Bath and Shower Products

22

Bath and Shower Products

After Bath/Shower Milky Lotion Part: A A A A

B B

B

Raw Material: Deionized Water Monalac MPL Monalac MO Glycerin Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol Oleyl Alcohol

wt% 87.5 2.0 2.5 2.0

3.0 2.0

1.0

Procedure: Heat both parts separately to 70C. Add Part B to Part A and homogenize well at 70-75C. Stir cool with minimal aeration to 40-45C and add fragrance, preservative, etc. Adjust the pH to 5.0-6.0 then fill. Physical Properties: Appearance: Milky lotion Formulation F-697 After Bath/Shower Soft Milky Creme -~ Part: A A A A

B B B

Raw Material: Deionized Water Monalac MPL Monalac MO Glycerin Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol Oleyl Alcohol

wt% 75.0 4.0 5.0 4.0 6.0 4.0 2.0

Procedure: Heat both parts separately to 70C. Add Part B to Part A and homogenize well at 70-75C. Stir cool with minimal aeration to 40-45C and add fragrance, preservative, etc. Adjust the pH to 5.0-6.0 then fill. Formulation F-698 SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations

23

24

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

After-Shower Part: A A

A A

M i 1k v L o t i o n

Wt%

Raw M a t e r i a l : D e i o n i z e d Water M o n a l a c MPL M o n a l a c MO G1 y c e r i n

07.5 2.0 2.5 2.0

M o n a l a c ML 3.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.0 B 0 1 e y l A1 c o h o l 1.o Procedure: H e a t b o t h p a r t s s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A a n d h o m o g e n i z e w e l l a t 70-75C. S t i r c o o l w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n t o 40-45C a n d a d d f r a g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e , e t c . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 then f i l l . B B

After-Shower

_Part: A A A A

S o f t M i 1 ky Creme

Wt%

Raw M a t e r i a l : D e i o n i z e d Water M o n a l a c MPL M o n a l a c MO G1 y c e r i n

75.0 4.0 5.0 4.0

M o n a l a c ML 6.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 01 e y l A l c o h o l 2.0 Procedure: H e a t b o t h p a r t s s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Add P a r t B a n d P a r t A a n d homogenize w e l l a t 70-75C. S t i r c o o l w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n t o 40-45C a n d a d d f r a g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e , e t c . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 then f i l l . B B B

After-Shower Part: A A

A A A

F l o w a b l e M i 1 ky C r e r n e / L o t i o n

Raw M a t e r i a l : Dei o n i zed Water M o n a l a c MPL M o n a l a c MO Monaquat SL-5 G1 y c e r i n

W B 72.0 4.0 5.0 3.0 4.0

B B

M o n a l a c ML 6.0 C e t e a r y l A1 cohol 4.0 B 01 e y l A 1 c o h o l 2.0 Procedure: H e a t b o t h p a r t s s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Add P a r t B a n d P a r t A a n d homogenize w e l l a t 70-75C. S t i r c o o l w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n t o 40-45C a n d a d d f r a g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e , e t c . A d j u s t pH t o 5.0-6.0 then f i l l .

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n F-726

Bath and Shower Products

25

Bath Gel A more complex surfactant system has been selected for this pearlescent bath gel to provide thorough, yet gentle cleansing. Glucamate DOE-120 is used to thicken the product to a gel like consistency. The incorporation of Polyox WSR N-3000 ensures good slip and lubricating properties and improves foam feel. Glucam E-10 functions as a humectant. The bath gel produces a rich, creamy foam which rinses easily while leaving a soft, emollient feel on the skin. Inqredients: Wt% Texapon NSO (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) 9.00 Plantaren 2000 (Decyl Glucoside) 1.00 Texapon SB-3 (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate) 1.00 Dehyton G (Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate) 2.50 Euperlan PK 3000-AM 1.00 Glucamate DOE-120 (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) 1.00 Deionized Water 82.70 POlyOX WSR N-3000 (PEG-14M) 0.05 Glucam E-10 (Methyl Gluceth-10) 1.00 Sodium Chloride 0.75 Preservative and Fragrance q.s. Disperse Glucamate DOE-120 in part of the water with moderate agitation and gentle heating (45-5OC). Remove heat. Add the surfactants. Adjust pH. Separately disperse Polyox WSR N-3000 in Glucam E-10. Add water. Add this premix to the surfactant system. Add preservative and fragrance. Adjust pH. Package. Viscosity: 7,900 cps (ZOC, LVT, 3, 12 rpm) pH: 6.5 Formulation E941-131-28 Shower Gel for Sensitive Gel This pearlescent shower gel is based on a mild cleansing system thickened synergistically by the combination of Glucamate DOE-120 and lauryl glucoside. This shower gel has low washing active solids (WAS) of 6.0%. Ucare Polymer LK has been selected to provide protective conditioning. Glucam E-20 is used for emollience and humectance. This low WAS shower gel is intended for sensitive or dry skin. It cleanses gently and provides a soft, conditioned feel to the skin. Inqredients: Wt% Standapol ES-2 (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) 4.00 Plantaren 1200 (Lauryl Glucose) 10.00 Euperlan PK 3000-AM 1.00 Glucamate DOE-120 (PEG-120 Methyl Glucoside Dioleate) 0.75 Deionized Water 83.15 Glucam E-20 (Methyl Gluceth-20) 1.00 Ucare Polymer LK (Polyquaternium-10) 0.10 Preservative and Fragrance q.s. Disperse Ucare Polymer LK in water with moderate agitation and gentle heating to 50C. Add Glucamate DOE-120 and continue heating until the Glucamate DOE-120 has dissolved. Add the surfactants. Add Glucam E-20. Add preservative and fragrance. Adjust pH to 6.5. Package. Formulation E942-021-15 SOURCE: Amerchol: Suggested Formulations

26

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

B a t h Gel w i t h V i t a m i n E M o i s t u r i z i n n Beads T h i s s p a r k l i n g b l u e b a t h g e l c r e a t e s l u x u r i o u s foam, and f e a t u r e s g e l a t i n beads w h i c h c o n t a i n V i t a m i n E and m i n e r a l o i l t o m o i s t u r i z e and n o u r i s h t h e s k i n . I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . A c r y l a t e s / C 1 0 - 3 0 A1 k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l ymer/ C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 3 . Propylene Glycol 4 . Sodium H y d r o x i d e (18%) 5 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e / S t a n d a p o l ES-3 6. Propylene G l y c o l , D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben/Germaben I 1

Wt% 45.93 1.20 6.00 0.40 30.00 1.oo

P a r t 8: 7 . D e i o n i z e d Water 8 . Benzophenone-4/Uvi nu1 MS-40 9 . D i s o d i u m EDTA

5.00 0.02 0.10

Part C: 10.Sodium H y d r o x i d e (18%) 11.Cocoamidopropyl Betaine/Incronam 3 12.Fragrance/J9262 1 3 . P o l y s o r b a t e 20/ ween 2 0 1 4 . W h i t e Beads w / V t a m i n E / L i p o p e a r l s 15.FD&C B l u e # I ( 0 1%) 16.D&C Green #5 ( 0 1 % )

2.40 4.00 0.60 0.80 1 .oo 0.05 1.50

P r o p e r t i es : C o l o r , Odor, Appearance: V i s c o u s , pH: 6 . 6 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 5,500-6,500 Y i e l d V a l u e ( d y n e s / c m 2 ) : 300-400 C l a r i t y ( % T ) : 50-60

c l e a r b l u e g e l w i t h beads

Preparation Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 i n warm (40C) d e i o n i z e d w a t e r u s i n g r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Reduce m i x i n g speed a f t e r p o l y m e r i s d i s persed. 2 . Add P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l and Sodium H y d r o x i d e . A l l o w any a i r t o escape b e f o r e p r e - n e u t r a l i z i n g . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add r e m a i n ingredients i n Part A i n order. 3 . Pre-combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat w a t e r t o d i s s o l v e . Add Part B t o Part A. 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r t o b a t c h . Precombine f r a g r a n c e and Tween 20 b e f o r e a d d i n g t o b a t c h . M i x u n t i l uni form.

SOURCE: B . F ,

Goodrich Co.:

Formulation

COO76

Bath and Shower Products

27

Bath and Shower Cleanser This high-foaming mild cleanser formulation is highly substantive to the skin and will leave a silky talc-like after-feel. Inqredient: Water Sodium Laureth (1) Sulfate ( 2 5 % ) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (30%) Monalac MPL Monalac MO Monalac MAB Sodium Chloride

Wt$ 45.0 35.0 10.0 2.0 2.0

5.0 1.0

Adjust the pH to 6.0 Appearance: Clear Viscous Liquid Solids ( 8 ) : 16 Viscosity at 25C: 7 2 0 0 CP Features: Lather and foam enhancement Extra conditioning for skin and hair Excellent viscosity building properties Contributes gentle cleansing Low irritation potential Cationic at acidic pH

Facial Cleanser This formulation provides gentle and thorough cleansing, while providing a soft, clean feel to the skin. Inqredient: Water Sodium Chloride Sodium Laureth ( 2 ) Sulfate (25%) Monalac MO Monalac MAB Monalac MPL

Wt$ 55.0 1.0 35.0 2.0 5.0 2.0

Adjust the pH to 6.0 Appearance: Clear viscous liquid Viscosity at 25C: 7 2 0 0 CP Solids ( % ) : 14 Features: Lather and foam enhancement Extra conditioning for skin and hair Excellent viscosity building properties Contributes gentle cleansing Low irritation potential Cationic at acidic pH

SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: MONALAC Suggested Formulations

28

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Bath and Shower Gel A gentle foaming bath and shower gel designed to thoroughly deep cleanse and refresh the skin without disturbing the skin's natural moisture balance. Insredient/Trade Name: Part A: Deionized water Polyquaternium-lO/Ucare Polymer JR-125 Citric Acid Tetrasodium EDTA/Hamp-ene 220 Methyl paraben Sodium PCA/Ajidew N-50 Part B: Sodium Laureth Sulfate/Carsonol SLES-2 TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate/Amisoft CT-12 Cocamidopropyl Betaine/Lonzaine C PEG-150 Distearate/Kessco PEG-6000 Distearate Lauramide DEA/Monamid 716

Wt% 26.596 0.200

0.100 0.100 0.150 1.000

45.000 15.000 7.500 0.700

3.000

Part C: Lavender Oil/Lavender Fleurs 40/42 Ext. D&C Violet No. 2 (0.1% Solution) D&C Red No. 33 (1.0% Solution) Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone/ Kathon CG

0.200 0.200 0.004

Part D: Sodium Chloride

0.200

0.050

Procedure: Disperse Ucare Polymer JR-125 into rapidly agitating deionized water. Heat to 70C. Add remaining Part A ingredients. Mix until uniform. Add Part B ingredients in given order. Mix at 70C until completely homogeneous. Cool to 40C. Add Part C ingredients. Mix well. Add Part D in increments as needed to obtain the desired viscosity. Continue mixing and cooling to 35C Appearance: Clear, lavender liquid pH @ 25C: 5.50-6.00 Viscosity: 7,000-12,000 cps (RVT: #5 @ lOrpm @ 25C)

SOURCE: Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc.: Formula #60-0404-A

Bath and Shower Products

29

Wt% 13.0 A) Ammonium L a u r y 1 S u l f a t e ( 1 ) ( 2 8 . 0 % a c t i v e ) 5.7 Cocoami dopropy, 1 B e t a i n e ( 2 ) ( 3 5 . 0 % a c t i v e ) Polyquaternium-7 ( 3 ) ( 0 . 8 % a c t i v e ) 4 0 4.0 A r l a t o n e MAP C o n c e n t r a t e ( 4 ) Water q.s. 0.5 B) Sodium C h l o r i d e C) 50% P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e q . s . to pH 7 . 0 D) Germaben I 1 q.s. Preparation: * S t i r ( A ) , a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , u n t i l t h e m i x t u r e i s u n i f o r m . *Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . * A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h ( C ) . *Add ( D ) Features: *Lubricious lather *Excellent cleansing *Smooth a f t e r f e e l *Amide f r e e , l o w a c t i v e s system ( 1 ) S t e p a n o l AM, ( 2 ) Tego B e t a i n L - 7 , ( 3 ) F l o c a r e C 1 0 7 , (4) C9-15 A l k y l P h o s p h a t e . Formula CP 1234

Lfl~r~5L_d_l:en.t s.;.

.

h Gel

w2 % I ngr e d i e n t-s : 28.5 A) Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 1 ) ( 2 8 0% a c t i v e ) 7.1 Cocoamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( 2 ) ( 3 5 0% a c t i v e ) 2.5 A r l a t o n e MAP C o n c e n t r a t e ( 3 ) q.s. Water 1. o B ) Sodium C h l o r i d e q . s . t o pH 6 . 5 C) 50% P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e q.s. 0 ) Germaben I 1 Preparation: * S t i r ( A ) , a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , u n t i l t h e m i x t u r e i s u n i f o r m . *Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . * A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h ( C ) . *Add (D) . Features: * E x c e l l e n t foam *Amide f r e e , l o w a c t i v e s s y s t e m *Smooth a f t e r f e e l * F e e l s good d u r i n g w a s h i n g ( 1 ) S t e p a n o l AM ( S t e p a n ) , ( 2 ) Tego B e t a i n L-7 ( G o l d s c h m i d t ) , ( 3 ) C9-15 A l k y l Phosphate. Formula CP1229 SOURCE:

ICI

Surfactants:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

30

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

C1 e a r M i 1 k-Based B u b b l e B a t h Part: A A A A A

A

Raw M a t e r i a l : Monalac MAB M o n a t e r i c COAB Monalac MO Monalac MPL D e i o n i z e d Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (26%)

30.0 20.0 4.0 3.0 28.0 15.0

Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d . M i x P a r t B w e l l b e f o r e a d d i n g t o P a r t A . A d j u s t t h e pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 and add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e s , fragrances, e t c . P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i es ; Appearance: C l e a r y e l l o w l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C: 6,000 c p s F o r m u l a t i o n F-695 Opaci f ie d M i 1k-Based B u b b l e B a t h Part: A A A A A

A A

B

B

Raw M a t e r i a l : Monalac MAB M o n a t e r i c COAB Monalac MO Monalac MPL Dei o n i zed Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (26%) D e i o n i zed Water E s i -Cry1 1 1 S t y r e n e - A c r y l i c Copolymer

wts/, 30.0 20.0 4.0 3.0 22.5

1.o 13.0 5.0 1.5

Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d . M i x P a r t B w e l l b e f o r e a d d i n g t o P a r t A . A d j u s t t h e pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 and add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e s , fragrances, e t c . Physical Properties: Appearance: Opaque i v o r y w h i t e l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C: 720 c p s F o r m u l a t i o n F-696

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Bath and Shower Products

31

C l e a r Shower G e l Raw M a t e r ia1 s : Texapon NSO/Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e P l a n t a c a r e K 5 5 / L a u r y l G l u c o s i d e ( a n d ) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne Lamesoft PO 6 5 / C o c o - G l u c o s i d e ( a n d ) G l y c e r y l 01 e a t e G l u a d i n W 4 0 / H y d r o l y z e d Wheat G l u t e n H y d r o l y z e d Wheat Protein NaCl Aqua, p r e s e r v a t i v e

rn 36.0 11.0

5.0 2.0 0 25 45.75 I

pH v a l u e : 5 . 5 V i s c o s i t y mPas: 4160 WAS ( % ) : 1 6 . 9 Preparation i n the Laboratory: M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d j u s t t h e pH v a l u e , then a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h s a l t . F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 94/193/227

Shower Bath Raw M a t e r i a l s : Texapon NSO/Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Dehyton K/Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e P l a n t a c a r e 1200 U P / L a u r y l G l u c o s i d e Lamesoft PW 45 M e t h o c e l E4M Premi urn E P / H y d r o x y p r o p y l NaCl Water Preservatives V i s c o s i t y mPas: 6 0 0 0 pH v a l u e : 5 . 5

Wt% 40.0

3.5 8.0 10.0 M e t h y l c e l l u l ose

0.5 38.0 n.B.

Preparation i n the Laboratory: O f M e t h o c e l E4M Premium EP and Water has t o be m a n u f a c t u r e d a c l e a r s w e l l i n g . Texapon NSO, Dehyton K , P l a n t a c a r e 1200 and Lamesoft PW 45 w i l l b e s t i r r e d homogeneous one a f t e r t h e o t h e r . W i t h c i t r i c a c i d t h e pH v a l u e w i l l b e f o c u s e d a t 5 . 5 . The v i s c o s i t y t u n i n g t a k e s p l a c e w i t h NaCl. F o r m u l a t i o n No. 9 6 / 0 5 6 / 7

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

32

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream Body Shampoo T h i s p e a r l e s c e n t w h i t e cream c o n t a i n s Jordapon C I - 7 5 F l a k e and Avanel 5-150 CGN f o r m i l d n e s s and s o f t s k i n , w h i l e p r o v i d i n g v o l umi nous s i 1 ky 1 a t h e r . Part : A

_I_ w e d i e n t / T r a d e Name:

Wt%

Dei o n i zed Water 58.9 H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e / M e t h o c e l 40-100 0.1 B N a 4 EDTA 0.2 0.1 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 50% C Sodium C12-15 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l S - 1 5 0 CGN 2.3 Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / 27.0 Jordapon C I - 7 5 Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e / A l f o n i c 1412-A 7.0 0.5 G l y c o l S t e a r a t e / M a o. e a- EGMS 0.2 M e t h y l Paraben 2.5 Sodi um S u l f a t e 0.2 D I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germa 1 115 2.0 Dei o n i zed Water E Fragrance 0.5 Q.S C i t r i c A c i d , 50% pH: 6.3-6.8 V i s c o s i t y : 2 0 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f ie d # 3 @ . 5 rpm) Appearance: V i scous p e a r l e s c e n t l o t i o n Procedure: Disperse the hydroxypropyl methylcellulose i n t h e p a r t A w a t e r a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e . W i t h good p r o p e l l o r m i x i n g , add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and a g i t a t e f o r a t l e a s t 20 m i n u t e s t o e n s u r e c o m p l e t e h y d r a t i o n . Add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 65C. When u n i f o r m , c o o l t o 40C and add p a r t D ( p r e m i x e d ) . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t t h e pH. The p r o d u c t i s i n i t i a l l y a nonviscous l i q u i d which develops i n t o a s o f t paste a f t e r s t a n d i n g a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a t i o n F-108 -~ Powdered

B a t h Foam ~. ~

Name: _W_ t % Sodium S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e / C r e x 70.0 Cocami de DEA/Mazami de JT-128 2.0 2.0 G1 y c e r i n C Fragrance Q.S Dyes Q.S. D Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n C I Powder 15.0 E M a l t o d e x t r i n / M a l t r i n M-100 3.0 Procedure: Add p a r t A t o a r i b b o n b l e n d e r or P - K V - b l e n d e r . Premix p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s , spray onto p a r t A w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Follow w i t h t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s . Add t h e Jordapon C I Powder and m a l t o d e x t r i n , blend u n t i l uniform. F o r m u l a t i o n E-104 SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Part: A B

-Ingredient/Trade

Bath and Shower Products

33

Creamy B a t h O i l T h i s u n u s u a l b a t h o i l i s an e m u l s i o n w h i c h blooms i n t h e b a t h , r e l e a s i n g e m o l l i e n t s t h r o u g h o u t t h e w a t e r . The v i s c o s i t y i s l o w , y e t t h e s y s t e m i s s t a b l e because o f t h e b l e n d o f e f f e c t i v e S-Maz and T-Maz e m u l s i f i e r s . Wt% Part: I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: A Demi n e r a l i zed Water 41.19 Na4EDTA 0.20 Nonoxynol-S/Macol NP-9.5 0.01 Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 icate/Veegum HV 0.60 Xanthan Gum/Kelzan 0.10 Propylene Glycol 6.00 M e t h y l Paraben 0 ' 20 0 P e t r o l a t u m / P e r l a t u m 4 1 0 CG 35.00 M i n e r a l O i 1 /Drake01 9 2.00 S o r b i t a n Stearate/S-Maz 60 2.00 P o l y s o r b a t e GO/T-Maz 60 4.00 P o l y s o r b a t e 80/T-Maz 80 3.00 C D e m i n e r a l i z e d Water 5.00 Triethanolamine 0.30 C i t r i c Acid 0.20 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germall 115 0.20 Procedure: M i x p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e main v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 75-8OC. I n a n o t h e r v e s s e l , b l e n d t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . P r e d i s s o l v e t h e methyl paraben i n t h e propylene g l y c o l t o speed t h i s s t e p . Warm p a r t A t o 75-80C and m i x w e l l f o r 30 m i n u t e s t o e n s u r e h y d r a t i o n o f t h e Veegum and x a n t h a n gum. W i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g ( e . g . a r o t o r - s t a t o r t y p e ) , add p a r t A t o p a r t B t o form t h e e m u l s i o n . M a i n t a i n good m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t h e b a t c h t o b e l o w 50C. B l e n d t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s and add t o t h e b a t c h , a d j u s t i n g t h e f i n a l pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 F o r m u l a t i o n G-104

_-

.____ Floa

t i n g Bath-Oij

A teaspoon o f t h i s o i l spreads a t h i n f i l m o f e m o l l i e n t s over t h e bath water, p r o v i d i n q t h e s k i n w i t h a verv e f f e c t i v e moistu r i zing treatment. Part: I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: wtQ/Q A PPG-30 C e t y l E t h e r / M a c o l CA-30 P 15.0 PEG-8 D i ol eate/Mapeg 400 DO 1. o Isopropyl Palmitate/Propal 39.0 Fragrance 1. o Dves ( o i l s o l u b l e ) Q.S. B Mqneral O i l / D r a k e o l 9 44.0 Appearance: C l e a r , w a t e r - w h i t e n o n v i s c o u s o i l Procedure: B l e n d t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . When u n i f o r m and c l e a r , add t h e m i n e r a l o i l and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Formulation G-201

SOURCE:

PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

34

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Creamy Shower G e l

anrg d e~n ts:

W$B

Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e 2.37 Water 52.28 0.10 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M. E . O . ) 25.00 10.00 Sod1 um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) G l v c i n e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e ( a n d ) Urea ( a n d ) N i a c i n a m i d e ( a n d ) I n o it o 1 0.25 ( a n d ) Sodium B e n z o a t e ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l DATEM (Am1 l a n GST 40) 2.00 1 .oo PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) 5.00 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F 5 0 ) 2.00 G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r e t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 1 0 0 ) Preservatives Q.S. Sodium C h l o r i d e A d j u s t t o des r e d v i s c o s i t y A d j u s t t o pH 5 . 5 6 . 0 i f needed C i t r i c A c i d (10%) Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e i n warm w a t e r a t 60C. 2 . Add Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e . 3 . Cool t o 40C. 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r a s l i s t e d , s t i r r i n g between each a d d i t i o n . 5 . Cool t o 30-35C. Add Tego P e a r l N 1 0 0 and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 6 . A d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y .

GreamYLll2.. i n- I :~ BSdY..-WaSh. L ngr edd ent.z :.

Wtsb

Phase A : G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( T e g i n EGS) 2.50 M y r i s t i c Acid 4.00 5.00 Jojoba O i l Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M. E . O . ) 45.00 10.00 Water Phase B: Water 19.00 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) 2.00 Phase C : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) PEG-55 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l O l e a t e 2.50 ( A n t i 1 141L) Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e , e t c . Q.S. Phase D : Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne (Tego B e t a i ne F 5 0 ) 10.00 Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 70C w h i l e m i x i n g ( a b o v e t h e m e l t i n g p o i n t o f T e g i n EGS). 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as Phase A . 3 . S t i r Phase B i n t o Phase A . Cool t o 40C. 4 . Add Phase C . M i x w e l l . A v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t . 5 . Add Phase D w i t h s t i r r i n g . A v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Bath and Shower Products

35

Creme Body Wash w i t h E m o l l i e n t s T h i s l u x u r i o u s body wash i s r i c h i n foam and m o i s t u r i z i n g , c r e a t i n g a smooth, e l e g a n t a f t e r f e e l t o t h e s k i n . I t s m i l d n e s s i s t h e r e s u l t o f s u r f a c t a n t s e l e c t i o n and l o w s a l t l e v e l . I n R r e d ie_nt / T r a d e Name : Wt% Part A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 49.59 2. Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ 0.80 Carbopol ETD 2020 3 . Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 8 % ) 0.10 Part B: 4 . D e i o n i z e d Water 10.00 0.30 5 . Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e / H i - C a r e 1 0 0 0 6 . D i s o d i u m EDTA 0.05 P a r t C: 7 . M e t h y l G1 u c e t h - 2 0 B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v EMG-20 2.50 8 . Tocopheryl A c e t a t e / V i t a m i n E Acetate 0.20 9. Cetyl Alcohol 1 .oo l O . D i m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d , 5 000 c s 0 50 11.Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 2 m o l e , 5 3 % ) / S t a n d a p o l ES-250 1 5 . 0 0 12.Cocoarnphoacetate ( 3 2 % ) / M i r a n o l U l t r a 8.50 13.Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e ( 3 0 % ) / J o r d a p o n ACI-30G 10.00 Part D: 14.Phenoxyethano1, M e t h y l p a r a b e n , B u t y l p a r a b e n , E t h y l p a r a b e n , and P r o p y l p a r a b e n / P h e n o n i p 0.50 15. F r a g r a n c e / B e l 1 F r a g r a n c e #J-7820, " S p o r t y " 0.50 0.06 16.D&C V i o l e t # 2 ( l . O % ) / B e l l F r a g r a n c e #J-7820 1 7 . Sodi urn H y d r o x i d e ( 1 8%) 0.40 Properties: C o l o r , O d o r , Appearance: Creamy, l i g h t l a v e n d e r gel A c t i v e s ( % ) : 13.67 PH: 6 . 1 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y (cP) : 7,500-10,500 Y i e l d V a l u e ( d y n e s / c m 2 ) : 200-400 Preparation Procedure: P a r t A : 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l E T D 2020 i n warm d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . 2 . Reduce m i x i n g speed, m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s . 3 . P a r t i a l l y n e u t r a l i z e w i t h NaOH ( 1 8 % ) . 4 . M i x 30 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l u n i f o r m . P a r t B : 5 . D i s p e r s e H i - C a r e 1 0 0 0 i n a s i d e v e s s e l (NOTE: Polymer w i l l not swell y e t ) . 6 . Add D i s o d i u m EDTA. When p o l y m e r s w e l l s , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . (NOTE: P a r t B w i l l become v e r y t h i c k i f i t i s n o t added a f t e r s w e l l i n g b e g i n s . ) Mix u n t i l uniform. P a r t C: 7 . Add 8% o f S t a n d a p o l and a l l o f Jordapon t o main b a t c h . Mix s l o w l y t o avoid a i r entrapment. 8 . I n a s i d e v e s s e l , m e l t t h e f o l l o w i n g i n g r e d i e n t s : F i n s o l v EMG, V i t a m i n E , C e t y l A l c o h o l , and D i m e t h i c o n e a t 75C. 9 . Add 7% S t a n d a p o l t o m e l t e d o i l phase, h o l d h e a t a t 65C u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add M i r a n o l U l t r a t o s i d e o i l phase, m a i n t a i n i n g temperature. 1 0 . A d d s i d e o i l / s u r f a c t a n t phase t o m a i n b a t c h . 1 1 . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Do n o t o v e r m i x . 1 2 . Add t h e f o l l o w i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g : P h e n o n i p , f r a g r a n c e , and c o l o r . 1 3 . A d j u s t pH w i t h NaOH (18%) t o 6 . 1 - 6 . 5 . SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n COO73 I

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

36

Economy Shower Gel D e s i g n e d f o r m i l d n e s s and Val ue, t h i s b a s i c body c l e a n s e r d e l i v e r s a t h i c k , r i c h l a t h e r . The C a r b o p o l p o l y m e r p r e v e n t s t h e s i l i c o n e o i l from creaming. Wt% I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 65.016 2. Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 0 I90 0.12 3 . Sodium H y d r o x i d e (18%) P a r t 8: 4. D e i o n i z e d Water 8.00 0.10 5 . Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e / H i - C a r e 1000 6 . D i s o d i u m EDTA 0.05 Part C: 18.00 7 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e / S t a n d a p o l ES-250 5.00 8 . Cocoamphoacetate ( 3 2 % ) / M i r a n o l U l t r a 9 . Oimethicone/Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d , 5000 c s 0.70 lO.Phenoxyethano1, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, E t h y l p a r a b e n and P r o p y l p a r a b e n / P h e n o n i p 0.50 0.50 11 F r a g r a n c e / B e l l F r a g r a n c e #J-7820, " S p o r t y " 1 2 . FD&C Ye1 l o w #5 ( 1 .O%) 0.055 0.009 13.FD&C B l u e #1 ( 1 . 0 % ) 1.05 14.Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 8 % )

.

Properties: C o l o r , Odor, Appearance: Green g e l A c t i v e s (YO): 1 1 . 1 4 pH: 6 . 1 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 5,000-8,000 Y i e l d V a l u e (dynes/cm2) : 125-225 S t a b i l i t y : Passes 28 days a t 45C P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: Part A: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 i n warm d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . 2 . Reduce m i x i n g speed, m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s . 3 . P a r t i a l l y n e u t r a l i z e w i t h NaOH ( 1 8 % ) . 4 . M i x 30 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Part B: 5 . D i s p e r s e H i - C a r e 1000 i n a s i d e v e s s e l (NOTE: Polymer w i l l not swell yet). 6 . Add O i s o d i u m E D T A . When p o l y m e r s w e l l s , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . (NOTE: P a r t 6 w i l l become v e r y t h i c k i f i t i s n o t added a f t e r s w e l l ing b e g i n s . ) Part C: 7 . Reduce m i x i n g speed, add t h e f o l l o w i n g i n g r e d i e n t s t o b a t c h i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g : S t a n d a p o l ES 250, M i r a n o l U l t r a . M i x u n t i l smooth. 8 . Add t h e f o l l o w i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g : D i m e t h i cone, Phenonip, f r a g r a n c e , and c o l o r . ES250, M i r a n o l U l t r a . M i x u n t i l smooth. 9 . A d j u s t pH w i t h NaOH (18%) t o 6 . 1 - 6 . 5 . SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n COO74

Bath and Shower Products

37

E u - w ? ! a ! S t v l e B a t h _ G el

Ingr__e_di.ent_s:. wtsb Water 54.9 T e t r a s o d i urn EDTA 0.1 S o d i u m L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 2 8 % 2M. E . O . ) 25.0 Cocami d o p r o p y l ami n e O x i d e (Ami n o x i d WS 3 5 ) 8.0 PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 1 7 1 ) 1.3 Jojoba O i 1 0.2 PEG-20 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( T a g a t S2) 1.o C i t r i c Acid t o pH 6 . 0 Natural Extracts 0.5 Fragrance Q.S. Preservative Q.S. Color Q.S. Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F ) 9.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n ) Q.S. Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e t h e T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA i n t h e w a t e r . 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g b e t w e e n a d d i t i o n s . A v o i d a i r entrapment. 3 . S l o w l y m i x i n t h e PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e . 4 . Add t h e C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e . 5 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e 25% s o l u t i o n o f S o d i u m C h l o r i d e . NOTE: F o r a p e a r l i z e d f o r m u l a s u b s t i t u t e t h e f o l l o w i n g f o r p a r t o f the water: Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (and) G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e (and) 3.00% C o c a m i d e MEA ( a n d ) C o c a m i d e DEA ( T e g o P e a r l 8 - 4 8 ) 81 oomi ng Emol 1i e n t B a t h O i 1 T h i s i s a q u i c k blooming b a t h t h a t w i l l accept a h i g h f r a g r a n c e l o a d i n g . The D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l and PEG-25 G l y c e r y l T r i o l e a t e c o n t r i b u t e s u b s t a n t i a l l y t o t h e e m o l l i e n c y and a r e major f a c t o r s i n blooming e f f e c t . Ing-red1e n t s : D;methicone C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8 8 5 2 ) PEG-25 G l y c e r y l T r i o l e a t e ( T a g a t TO) Avocado O i l Mineral O i l C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) Procedure: Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l

Wt% 10.00 13.00 20.00 40.00 10.00 7.00

M i x w e l l between a d d i t i o n s .

C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

38

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Exfoliating Body Scrub T h i s m i l d g e n t l y f o a m i n g body s c r u b i n c l u d e s j o j o b a beads t o e x f o l i a t e and c l e a n s e , l e a v i n g t h e s k i n f e e l i n g s m o o t h e r . I n n r e d i e n t J T r a d e Name: P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water Acrylates/C10-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ C a r b o p o l E T D 2020 T r i e t h a n o l a r n i n e (99%) D i s o d i um EDTA/Versene NA P a r t E: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea, Propylene G l y c o l , Methylparaben, Propylparaben/Germaben I1 P a r t C: D i s o d i u m L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e / M a c k a n a t e EL Disodium Dimethicone Copolyol S u l f o s u c c i n a t e / Mackanate DC-30 P o l y s o r b a t e 20/Tween 20 Cocarnidopropyl B e t a i n e / I n c r o n a m 30 Sodium L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e 1 ( 3 mole, 3 0 % ) / Standapol ES-3 Part D: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Fragrance/99411 F r u i t Blend Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil/Gypsy

Rose F l o r a b e a d s

54.88

1.10 0.10

0.05 1.50 1.20 13.00

5.00 1.50 3.00 4.00 1.45 0.22 3.00

Properties: Appearance: B r i g h t r e d g e l pH: 6.0-6.5 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 7,200-8,200 Y i e l d Value (dynes/cm2): 300-350 C l a r i t y (TOT): 5 0 - 6 0 Preparation Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l E T D 2020 p o l y m e r i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r and allow t o hydrate. 2 . P a r t i a l l y n e u t r a l i z e t h e d i s p e r s i o n w i t h T E A i n P a r t A; m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Add d i s o d i u m EDTA and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 4. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t 8, and add t o P a r t A; m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 5 . Add t h e s u r f a c t a n t s i n P a r t C i n d i v i d u a l l y t o P a r t A B w i t h slow continuous mixing. 6 . Add t h e T E A i n P a r t D t o c o m p l e t e t h e n e u t r a l i z a t i o n m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 7 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h c o n t nuous, slow mixing.

SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n COO63

Bath and Shower Products

39

Foamina B a t h O i l A m i l d and r i c h - f o a m i n g b a t h a d d i t i v e ,

i d e a l as a fragrance

vehicle Part: A

B

C

I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Demi n e r a l i zed Water Na4EDTA I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germall 115 Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n A C I - B O G M e t h y l Paraben Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e / A l f o n i c 1412-A Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne/Mafo C A B Cocamide DEA/Mazamide JT-128 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate/Macol 159 Fragrance C i t r i c Acid Ammoni um Chl o r ide

Wt% 58.7 0.2 0.2 13.3 0.2 16.7 5.7 2.0

3.0 Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.

pH: 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 Appearance: C l e a r , s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d Procedure: Add t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r t o t h e main v e s s e l , m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . P r e m i x t h e p a r t B components and add t o t h e main m i x . When c l e a r and u n i f o r m , a d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y with part C ingredients. F o r m u l a t i o n E-105 Foaminq B a t h

OiJ-

An e a s i l y - f r a g r a n c e d s o l u b l e b a t h o i l , w h i c h a l s o p r o v i d e s foaming.

__ Part: A

B

C

u r e d i e n t / T r a d c Name: D e m i n e r a l i z e d Water Na4 EDTA I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 1 1 5 Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n ACI-30 G M e t h y l Paraben Cocami d o p r o p y l A m i ne Oxi de/Mazox C A P A P o l y s o r b a t e 20/T-Max 20 Fragrance C i t r i c Acid Ammonium C h l o r i d e

Wt% 65.4

0.2 0.2 12.0 0.2 2.0 20.0 Q.S.

Q.S. Q.S.

pH: 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 Appearance: C l e a r , s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d Procedure: Add t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r t o t h e main v e s s e l , m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Premix t h e p a r t B components and add t o t h e main m i x . When c l e a r and u n i f o r m , a d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y with Part C ingredients. F o r m u l a t i o n E-106

SOURCE:

PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

40

Cosmetic and Todetry Formulations

Gentle Body Wash Ingredients: Water M o n a f a x MAP-230 Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 M o n a t e r i c CLV Cerasynt I P

Wt%

22.3 25.0 38.5 13.2 1.o

Sulfate

Procedure: B l e n d i n o r d e r l i s t e d , h e a t t o 65C a n d m i x s u f f i c i e n t l y . S t i r c o o l u n t i l p e a r l d e v e l o p s . Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , p r e s e r v a t i v e , and package. Appearance: White p e a r l e d l i q u i d pH: 7 . 5 S o l i d s : 26% V i s c o s i t y : 8,000 cp F o r m u l a t i o n F-678 Economical Body Wash Wt% 80 15 5

Ingredients: Water M o n a t e r g e 779 M o n a f a x MAP-230 Procedure: B l e n d i n o r d e r l i s t e d a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , a d l u s t t o pH 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 , a d d f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , p r e s e r v a t i v e a n d p a c k a g e . Appearance: C l e a r l i q u i d S o l i d s : 17% V i s c o s i t y : 2,425 cp Formu 1 a t ion F - 6 7 9 C l e a r Body Wash Ingredients: Water Ammonium L a u r e t h ( 1 ) S u l f a t e ( 2 6 % ) M o n a f a x MAP-230 P1 a n t a r e n 2000

Wt% 19.8 57.7 12.5 10.0

Procedure: B l e n d i n o r d e r l i s t e d . A d l u s t pH t o 6 . 5 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , p r e s e r v a t i v e , a n d p a c k a g e . Appearance: C l e a r v i s c o u s l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y : 1 2 , 5 0 0 CP S o l i d s : 25% F o r m u l a F-681 SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Bath and Shower Products

41

Low Cost Body Wash A rich, high foaming, oil-free body wash which cleanses while leaving the skin with a soft smooth feel. Sequence: Raw Material/INCI Name: 1 Deionized Water 1 Uniphen P-23

68.45 0.30

2

Keltrol/Xanthan Gum

0.25

3

Liponic EG-l/Glycereth-26

0.75

4 4 4 4

Lip0 Stearic Acid Lipopeg 4-S/PEG-8 Stearate Lipocol L-4/Laureth-4 Liponate NPGC-2 Lipopeg 6000 DS/PEG-150 Distearate

2.00 1.50 1.00 1.00 0.50

5 5

Plantaren PS-100 Standamid LD/Lauramide DEA

6 6

Deionized Water Unicide U-l3/Imidazolidinyl Urea

4

20.00 3.00

1.00 0.25

Procedure: 1. Heat Sequence #1 to 78C on overhead mixer at medium/high speed. 2. Slowly add Sequence #2 to Sequence #1 with medium/high speed mixing until completely hydrated. Hold temperature at 78C. 3 . Add Sequence # 3 at medium/high speed. 4. Heat premixed Sequence #4 to 80C until clear and add to main batch at medium/high speed. Cool to 65C. 5. At 65C, add Sequence #5 ingredients in order of addition while mixing at medium/low speed. Cool to 35C. 6. At 35C, add premixed Sequence #6 at medium/low speed. Specifications: pH: 6.71-0.2 Viscosity: LVT # 4

@

12 rpm = 23,750 t-10%

SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals Inc.: Formulation No. 9 7 7

42

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

M i l d Bubble B a t h

Wt%

Ingredients: B i o - T e r g e AS-40 A l p h a - S t e p MC-40 N i n o l LMP T e t r a s o d i um EOTA C i t r i c acid Sodium C h l o r i d e D . I . water

20.0 5.0 3.0

0.2 Q.S.

Q.S. Q.S. t o 100.0

M i x i ng Procedure: Heat w a t e r t o 50-6OC. Add f i r s t t w o components and EDTA, m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . Add LMP, m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Cool t o 25C. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , dye and p r e s e r v a t i v e as d e s i r e d . A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e . Typical Properties: Appearance: C l e a r , l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y : 200 cps @ 1 . 5 % sodium c h l o r i d e 1 1 0 0 cps @ 2 . 0 % sodium c h l o r i d e Comment: S t a b l e f o r 3 weeks a t 42C, 3 freeze/thaw cycles.

SOURCE: Stepan C o . :

2 months a t 25C,

and t h r o u g h

F o r m u l a t i o n No. 583

~ A_f _t e _ _r _B _ _a _t h T a l c ~

No. Phase 1

2 3 4

A B €3 €3

-Inaedient:. ~

Talc Perfume O i l PPG-20 M e t h y l g l u c o s e e t h e r O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia Nut O i l

Wt% 92.50 5.00 1.50

1 .oo

Manufacturing Procedure: Phase A : H o l d on s i d e . Phase €3: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and when u n i f o r m , b l e n d i n t o Phase A ( t a l c . ) . Here t h e O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l h e l p s t h e t a l c s p r e a d and c u t s down on t h e d r y f e e l i n g o f t h e s k i n . Leaves a n i c e smooth f e e l .

SOURCE: O i l s o f A l o h a : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Bath and Shower Products

M i l k B a t h Gel

Wt%

I n n r e d ien t s : Water Kelzan S Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (26%) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 2 8 % ) Monalac MAB Monalac MPL Monalac MO Sodium C h l o r i d e Monalac ML

42.6 0.4 35.0 10.0 5.0 2.0 2.0 1. o 2.0

Procedure: B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 60C. S t i r c o o l t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e as needed. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 . Appearance: W h i t e L o t i o n V i s c o s i t y : 18,000 CP F o r m u l a t i o n F-690

w-

Icgre_die n g s l Monafax MAP 230 SLES ( 2 ) (26%) M o n a t e r i c CLV C e r a s y n t IP

32.25 49.50 17.00 1.25

Procedure: B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s ; h e a t t o 70C. S t i r c o o l t o 4 0 C . f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d . P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i es : Appearance: P e a r l e d L o t i o n V l s c o s l t y : 4 , 0 0 0 CP F o r m u l a t i o n F-692 SOURCE:

Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Add

43

44

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

M i l k E n r i c h e d B a t h and Shower C l e a n s e r ( C l e a r ) - B Raw M a t e r i a1 : Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e ( 2 5 % ) Monalac MPL Monalac MO M o n a t e r i c COAB Monalac MAB

*W

46.0 35.0 2.0 2.0 10.0 5.0

Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 Physical Properties: Appearance: C l e a r l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C ( c P ) : 96,000 M i l k E n r i c h e d B a t h and Shower C l e a n s e r ( C l e a r ) - C Raw

M a t e r i a1 : Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (25%) Monalac MPL Monalac MO Fragrance M o n a t e r i c COAB Monalac MAB

Wt% 45.0 35.0 2.0 2.0 1.o 10.0 5.0

Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 Physical Properties: Appearance: C l e a r l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C ( c P ) : 97,000

-_____ M i l k E n r i c h e d B a t h and Shower C l e a n s e r ( C l e a r ) - D Raw M a t e r i a1 : Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (25%) Monalac MPL Monalac MO Sodium C h l o r i d e Fragrance M o n a t e r i c COAB M o n a t e r i c MAB Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 Physical Properties: Appearance: C l e a r l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C ( c P ) : 8 , 0 0 0

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Formulation F-715

W B 44.5 35.0 2.0 2.0 0.5 1.o 10.0 5.0

Bath and Shower Products

45

M i l k E n r i c h e d B a t h and Shower C l e a n s e r ( C l e a r ) - E Raw Mat e r ig l ; Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e ( 2 5 % ) Monalac MPL Monalac MO Sodium C h l o r i d e Fragrance M o n a t e r i c COAB Monalac MAB M o n a s i l PLN

__ Wt% 40.5 35.0 2.0

2.0 0.5 1.o 10.0 5.0 4.0

Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d and a d j u s t p H t o 6 . 0 Physical Properties: Clear l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C ( c P ) : 5 , 6 0 0 F o r m u l a t i o n F-715

-______ M i l k E n r i c h e d B a t h a n d Shower C l e a n s e r [ ~Clear1

_______ Raw M a t e r i a1 : Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e ( 2 5 % ) Monalac MPL Monalac MO Sodium C h l o r i d e Fragrance M o n a t e r i c COAB Monalac MAB

wto/, 44.5 35.0 2.0 2.0

0.5

1.o 10.0 5.0

Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 t o 7 . 5 . P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i es : Appearance: C1 e a r l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 2 5C ( c P ) : 8 , 0 0 0 t o 5 0 , 0 0 0 v a r i e s w i t h pH & % fragrance Formul a t i on F-718

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

46

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Milk Enriched Bodv Cleanser This viscous high foaming formulation utilizes the foam stabilization, mild cleansing and conditioning properties of Monalac MO. Inaredient: Water Sodium Laureth ( 2 ) Sulfate ( 2 8 % ) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (30%) Monalac MO Monalac MPL Sodium Chloride

WtO 22.0 40.0 25.0 10.0 2.0 1.o

Adjust the pH to 5 . 5 . Features of Monalac MO: Lather and foam enhancement Extra conditioning for skin and hair Excellent viscosity building properties Contributes gentle cleansing Low irritation potential Cationic at acidic pH Gel Conditioning Bodv Cleanser This high foaming conditioning formulation provides gentle and thorough cleansing, while imparting a soft, smooth and clean after-feel. Inaredient: Water Sodium Chloride Sodium Laureth ( 2 ) Sulfate ( 2 5 % ) Monalac MAB Monalac MPL Monamid CMA Adjust the pH to 6.0 Appearance: Clear viscous liquid Viscosity at 2 5 C : 5 1 0 0 0 CP Solids ( % ) : 14 Features of Monolac MAB: Effective conditioning to skin and hair Provides mild cleansing High foaming primary surfactant Excellent viscosity building properties Anti-irritant for anionics and cationics Compatible with all surfactant types

SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations

55.0 1.0 35.0 5.0 2.0 2.0

Bath and Shower Products

47

Moisturizinq Shower Lotion This shower lotion is based on a mild cleansing system thickened by Glucamate DOE-120. Cremerol HMG and Glucam E-20 are incorporated for moisturization and humectance. Promulgen D provides creaminess. Ucare Polymer JR-30M is added for longlasting conditioned skin feel. Inqredients: Texauon NSO (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) Dehykon K (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) Ucare Polymer JR-3OM (Polyquaternium-10) Deionized Water Promulgen D (Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20) Glucam E-20 (Methyl Gluceth-20) Glucamate DOE-120 (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate Cremerol HMG (Hydroxylated Milk Glycerides) Timiron MP-1001 Supersheen (Mica and Titanium Diox de) Triethanolamine Preservative and Fragrance

Wt%

20.00 15.00 0.10 60.05 1.00 1-00 1.50 1.00 0.35 q.s. q.s.

Procedure: Heat half of the water to 15C and add Promulgen D. Disperse the Ucare Polymer JR-30M in the other half while heating to 45-50C. Add Glucamate DOE-120 and Cremerol HMG to the Ucare solution. Once a uniform solution has formed, add to the Promulgen solution with gentle agitation. Add remaining ingredients, mixing until uniform. Cool to 35C while stirring. Adjust pH to 6.5. Package. Performance Data: Viscosity: 23,500 cps (ZOC, LVT, 4, 12 rpm) pH: 6.5 SOURCE: Amerchol: Formulation E931-063-5 Moisturizinq Self-Emulsifyins Bath Oil (With AHA-Ester1 Raw Materials: Imwitor 380 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Miglyol 840 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicapirate) Softisan 645 (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1) Softigen 767 (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) Mineral Oil Aloe Vera Lip0 Quinone Extract (Aloe Vera) Color Fragrance

Wt$ 13.00 18.00 25.00 10.00 10.00 22.00 2.00 q.s. q.s.

Preparation: All ingredients are mixed together and stirred until homogeneous. SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Formulation 5 . 2 A (3)

48

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

M o i s t u r i z i n g Shower L o t i o n T h i s shower l o t i o n i s based on a m i l d c l e a n s i n g system t h i c k ened b y Glucamate DOE-120. Cremerol HMG and Glucam E-20 a r e i n c o r p o r a t e d f o r m o i s t u r i z a t i o n and humectance. Promulgen D p r o v i d e s c r e a m i n e s s . Ucare Polymer JR-30M i s added f o r l o n g l a s t i n g conditioned skin feel. V i s c o s i t y : 23,500 c p s pH: 6 . 5 I n q r e d ie n t s : @to/, Texapon NSO (Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ) 20.00 Dehyton K ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 15.00 U c a r e Polymer JR-30M ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 0.10 Dei o n i zed Water 60.05 Promulgen D ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 ) 1.oo G1 ucam E-20 ( M e t h y l G1 u c e t h - 2 0 ) 1.00 Glucamate DOE-120 (PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e ) 1.50 1 .oo Cremerol HMG ( H y d r o x y l a t e d M i 1 k G l y c e r i d e s ) T i m i r o n MP-1001 Supersheen ( M i c a ( a n d ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ) 0.35 Triethanolamine q.s. F r a g r a n c e and P r e s e r v a t i v e q.s. Procedure: Heat h a l f o f t h e w a t e r t o 75C and add Promulgen D . D i s p e r s e t h e U c a r e Polymer JR-30M i n t h e o t h e r h a l f w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 45-5OC. Add Glucamate DOE-120 and Cremerol HMG t o t h e Ucare s o l u t i o n . Once a u n i f o r m s o l u t i o n has formed, add t o t h e Promulgen s o l u t i o n w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 . N o t e : Texapon NSO i s 28% a c t i v e , max. 0 . 6 % s a l t ; Dehyton K i s 30% a c t i v e , 4 . 5 t o 5 . 5 % s a l t .

_ Shower _ _ ~ ~ Gel _ _w_i t _ h ~Low _ _Washina _ ~ Active Solids A l k y l p o l y g l u c o s e f u n c t i o n s as t h e p r i m a r y s u r f a c t a n t i n t h i s shower g e l w h i c h has l o w w a s h i n g a c t i v e s o l i d s (WAS). U c a r e Polymer LK has been s e l e c t e d t o p r o v i d e p r o t e c t i v e c o n d i t i o n i n g . Glucam E-20 i s used f o r e m o l l i e n c e and humectance. T h i s l o w WAS shower g e l i s i n t e n d e d f o r s e n s i t i v e o r d r y s k i n . I t c l e a n s e s g e n t l y and p r o v i d e s a s o f t , c o n d i t i o n e d f e e l t o skin. V i s c o s i t y : 5,300 c p s pH: 6 . 5 Inqredients: W B 4.00 Texapon NSO (Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ) 10.00 P1 a n t a r e n 1200 ( L a u r y l Pol y g l u c o s e ) E u p e r l a n PK 3000-AM ( G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( a n d ) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 1-00 Glucamate DOE-120 (PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e ) 0.75 83.15 D e i o n i z e d Water 1.oo G1 ucam E-20 ( M e t h y l G1 u c e t h - 2 0 ) 0.10 U c a r e Polymer LK ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 4,s. P r e s e r v a t i v e and F r a g r a n c e Procedure: D i s p e r s e Ucare Polymer LK i n t h e w a t e r w t h g e n t l e h e a t i n g (45-5OC). Add Glucam DOE-120. S t o p h e a t i n g . Add s u r f a c t a n t s . Add Glucam E-20. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e A d j u s t pH. S O U R C E ; Amerchol : F o r m u l a t i o n s E931-063-5 & E942-021-15 ~~

Bath and Shower Products

O p a c i f i e d B a t h & Shower L i q u i d Part: A A A A A A A B

B

-t e r i a l : Raw M a D e i o n i z e d Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 3 0 % ) Monalac MPL Monalac MD Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (26%) Monalac MAB

D e i o n i z e d Water E s i - C r y 1 1 1 S t y r e n e - A c r y l i c Copolymer

w t o/, 40.0 1.o 10.0 2.0 2.0 35.0 5.0 4.0 1. o

Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d . M i x P a r t B w e l l b e f o r e a d d i n g t o P a r t A . A d j u s t t h e pH t o 6.0-6.5 and add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e s , fragrances, e t c . Physical Properties : Appearance: Opaque W h i t e L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C: 12,000 c p s F o r m u l a t i o n F-693 O p a - c i f i e d B a t h & Shower Liquid Gel

A A

Raw M a t e r i a1 : D e i o n i z e d Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 3 0 % ) Monalac MPL Monalac MO Sodium L a u r e t h (2) S u l f a t e (26%) Monalac MAB

B B

D e i o n i z e d Water E s i - C r y 1 1 1 S t y r e n e - A c r y l i c Copolymer

Part: A A A A A

W t 04 30.0 1.o 20.0

2.0 2.0 35.0

5.0 4.0 1.o

Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d . M i x P a r t B w e l l b e f o r e a d d i n g t o P a r t A . A d j u s t t h e pH t o 6.0-6.5 and add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e s , fragrances, e t c . Physical Properties: Appearance: Opaque W h i t e L i q u i d Gel V i s c o s i t y a t 25C: 8 0 , 0 0 0 c p s F o r m u l a t i o n F-694

SOURCE:

Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

49

50

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

P e a r l i z e d Bath S a l t s Y e l l o w Green

I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : Coarse S a l t C r y s t a l s M i c a ( a n d ) T i t a n i um D i o x i d e / T i m i r o n Super Green FD&C B l u e # I Aluminum Lake C39-4433 Phase B : P V P / V A Copol y m e r / l u v Isopropanol Fragrance

s k o l VA641

Wt% 99.00 0.999 0.001 0.40 3.60 q.s.

Procedure: Combine Phase A w t h g e n t l e t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . Comb ne Phase B. When homogeneous, s p r a y o n t o Phase A w i t h c o n t i n u o u s t u m b l i ng a g i t a t i o n . E v a p o r a t e s o l v e n t v i a vacuum o r t r a y d r y i n g . Formula SD2-13-5 P e a r l ized B a t h S a l t s Sea Green I N C I Name/Trade N a m s Phase A : Coarse S a l t C r y s t a l s M i c a ( a n d ) T i t a n i um D i o x i d e / T i m i r o n Super Green FD&C B l u e # I Aluminum Lake C39-4433

Phase B : P V P / V A C o p o l y m e r / L u v i s k o l VA641 Isopropanol Fragrance

Wt% 99.00 0.99 0.01 0.40 3.60 q.s.

Procedure: Combine Phase A w i t h g e n t l e t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . Combine Phase B . When homogeneous, s p r a y o n t o Phase A w i t h c o n t i n u o u s t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . E v a p o r a t e s o l v e n t v i a vacuum o r t r a y d r y i n g . F o r m u l a SD2-13-4

SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Bath and Shower Products

Ingredients: A) Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate ( 1 ) (28.0% active) Cocoamidopropyl Betaine ( 2 ) (35.0% active) Polyquaternium-7 ( 3 ) (0.8%active) Arlatone MAP Concentrate ( 4 ) Water

~.._

6)

Sodium Chloride

C ) 50% Potassium Hydroxide D)

Germaben I 1

51

w t3

28.5

7.1 4.0

2.5 q.s.

0.5 q . s . to pH 7.0 q.s.

Preparation : *Stir (A), at room temperature, until the mixture i s uniform. *Add (B) to ( A ) with moderate stirring. *Adjust the pH with ( C ) . *Add (D) . Features: *Lubricious lather *Excel 1 ent cI eansi ng *Smooth after feel *Amide free (1)Stepanol AM (Stepan), Tego Betain L - 7 (Goldschmidt), Flocare C107 (SNF Floerger), C9-15 Alkyl Phosphate Viscosity: 11,100 cPs (Brookfield LVT, spindle 4, 30 rpm) Stability: 2 1 . 0 C (70F): 1 week 35.0C (95F): 1 week 46.0C ( l t 5 F ) : 1 week F/T: 4 freeze/thaw cycles.

SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Formulation CP1233

52

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shower G e l _____

Wt%

Raw M a t e r i a l s : A : A c y l g l u t a m a t e CS-22 Cocamide DEA B u t y l ene g l y c o l Sodi um b e n z e d r i ne Methyl paraben Water

80.0 5.0 3.0 0.2 0.2 balance

B: Hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e

1.2

C: F r a g r a n c e

q.s.

Procedure D i s s o l v e ( A ) a t 70-8OC w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool ( A ) t o 50-60C and d i s p e r s e / d i s s o l v e ( 8 ) and ( C ) i n ( A ) . Cool t o room temperature. pH: 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 3960 mPa.s a t 25C Formul a CSB-02

_____ Shower Gel wto/, 20.0 1.o 3.0 4.0 1.4 0.2 balance

Raw M a t e r i a l s : A : A c y l g l u t a m a t e CK-1 Tween-20 Cocamide DEA 1,3-Butylene glyco

KOH Methyl paraben Water B:

1

Hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e

pH: 6 . 5 Viscosity:

.o

1000 mPa.s

Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 70-80C. Add ( B ) w i t h s t i r r i n g t o ( A ) and c o o l down i m m e d i a t e l y . Cool t o 30C. F o r m u l a CK-B-003

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Bath and Shower Products

53

Shower Gel This mild shower gel has good viscosity and foaming properties and leaves a velvety feel on the skin. Velsan P8-3 liquid is a water soluble emollient ester with a silky dry emolliency that is non-greasy. Sandopan DTC acid liquid is a multi-functional surfactant that can increase cationic deposition if a cationic conditioner is used. It also acts as a hydrotrope and performs well in hard water. Sandopan DTC acid liquid and Sandobet SC liquid are both very mild surfactants. Insredients: Wt% Standapol ES-3 46.40 10.00 Sandobet SC liquid Sandopan DTC acid liquid 5.60 Lauramide DEA 3.30 Velsan P8-3 liquid 2.00 Glucamate DOE 120 1.70 Germaben I1 1.00 Versene NA 0.10 Deionized Water qs Procedure: Hydrate Glucamate DOE 120 and Versene NA in all of the Deionized water. In a separate vessel, add remaining ingredients in order. Combine the two phases and adjust pH to 6.0. Properties: pH: 6.0 Appearance: Clear, slightly yellow, viscous gel Viscosity: 8,500 cps (Brookfield LVT viscometer, Spindle #3, 6 rpm) Ref: CL30-3: CHS-52 Water White Shower Gel Adds a velvety feel to the skin. This crystal clear shower gel has good viscosity and foaming characteristics. Insredients: Wt% Standapol ES-3 41.25 Sandopan DTC acid 10.00 Lauramide DEA 3.30 Velsan P8-3 liquid 2.00 Glucamate DOE-120 1.70 Germaben I1 1.00 Versene NA 0.10 qs Fragrance Deionized Water 40.70 qs Procedure: Hydrate Glucamate DOE-120 and Versene NA in all of the Deionized Water. In a separate vessel, add the remaining ingredients in order mixing well after each addition. Combine the two phases and mix well. Adjust pH=6.0. Properties: pH: 6.0 Viscosity: 8500 cps % Solids: 29 REF: CL30-3: CHS-51 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations

54

Cosmetic and Toiletry formulations

2 i n 1 C r e m B o d v Wash W

B

I_n.Qredie n t s i A) A r l a t o n e DUO Water Xanthan Gum ( 1 )

20.0 69.5 0.1

B ) Water Triethanolamine

5.0 0.6

C) A r l a t o n e MAP C o n c e n t r a t e ( 2 )

2.5

D) Dimethicone ( 3 )

2.0

E) Q u a t e r n i u m - 1 5 ( 4 )

q.s.

Preparation: *Heat w a t e r t o 80-85C, d i s p e r s e x a n t h a n gum and t h e A r l a t o n e DUO w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g t e m p e r a t u r e above 8OC. *Heat and s t i r ( B ) t o 8OC. *Add ( C ) t o ( 6 ) s l o w l y w i t h good a g i t a t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g 8OC until clear. *Add ( B / C ) a t 50C t o ( A ) a t 50C w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . *Add (D) and ( E ) t o (A/B/C) m i x t u r e b e l o w 40C w i t h moderate stirring. * S t i r t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and add any w a t e r l o s t due t o evaporation. Features : * F e e l s good d u r i n g w a s h i n g *Moisturizing after feel * E x c e l 1e n t c l e a n s i n g ( 1 ) K e l t r o l ( K e l c o ) , C9-15 A l k y l Phosphate, ( 3 ) Dow C o r n i n g 2 0 0 F l u i d (Dow C o r n i n g ) , ( 4 ) D o w i c i l 2 0 0 (Dow C o r n i n g )

SOURCE:

I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u l a CP1231

Section IV Beauty Aids

55

56

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

A H A - C l a r i - f v i n q Face Mask Formula P r o f i l e : Veegum F i s used i n t h i s f a c e mask. T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s and t a k e s a d v a n t a g e o f t h e a b s o r b i n g and c l e a n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f p u r i f i e d B e n t o n i t e . T h i s f o r m u l a c o n t a i n s humecta n t s t h a t w i i l i m p r o v e t h e r e s i d u a l s k i n f e e l . The s u r f a c t a n t a i d s i n t h e r i n s a b i l i t y o f t h e d r i e d mask.

wto/, 44.75 7.0

&.?2Ce_d_l:.e.n& 5.: A:

Water Veegum F (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e )

B: G l y c e r i n B u t y l ene G1 y c o l Vancl ay ( K a o l i n ) T a l c ( C o s m e t i c Grade) Vanseal NALS-30 (Sodium L a u r o y l S a r c o s i n a t e ) C:

Preservative

D:

Glycolic Acid

E:

Fragrance

5.0 3.0 20.0 5.0 5.0 qs 7.0

qs

F: Triethanolamine

C i t r i c Acid

3.25 A d j u s t p H t o 3.7t-0.2

cis

Procedure: S t e p 1 : S i f t Veegum F i n t o an e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n w a t e r . Veegum F w i l l need a p p r o x i m a t e l y 60 m i n u t e s f o r h y d r a t i o n u s i n g a homogenizer o r up t o 3 h o u r s u s i n g a p r o p m i x e r . A d d i t i o n a l e n e r g y , such as an i n c r e a s e i n m i x i n g i n t e n s i t y o r w a t e r tempe r a t u r e , w i l l reduce h y d r a t i o n t i m e . The a d d i t i o n o f any o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum F and w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d b y t h e Magnesi um A 1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e , S t e p 2 : Add r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s l i s t e d i n P a r t B. S t e p 3 : Add P a r t C - P r e s e r v a t i v e . S t e p 4 : Add P a r t D - A H A - G l y c o l i c A c i d . S t e p 5 : Add P a r t E - F r a g r n c e . S t e p 6 : A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 7 w i t h P a r t F . Product S e c i f i c a t i o n s : V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LVT D V I I S p i n d l e #TF @ 0.3 RPM:

1,000,OOOt100,000 cps

pH: 3.5-3.9 T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a s t a b l e p r o d u c t t h a t passes 3 month s t a b i l i t y t e s t i n g a t R T , 5 C , 38C, 5 0 C and 3 c y c l e F / T .

SOURCE:

R.T.

Vanderbilt Co.,

I n c , : Formula

No. 471

Beauty Aids

Aloe Vera G e l M o i s t u r i z e r T h i s c l e a r a l o e Vera g e l , t h i c k e n e d w i t h C a r b o p o l ETO 2020, i s an e x c e l l e n t g e l f o r s o o t h i n g s u n b u r n and o t h e r s k i n i r r i t a t i o n s and may p r o m o t e h e a l i n g . I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/Carbopol ETO 2020 DMOM H y d a n t o i n / G l y d a n t Sodium H y d r o x i d e (18%) Part B: Dei o n i zed Water D i m e t h i cone Cop01 yo1 Wax/Si 1 wax WS D i s o d i u m EOTA/Versene NA A l o e Vera Gel ( 4 0 : 1 ) / A l o e Vera Gel DC 40 Sodium H y d r o x i d e (18%) O & C Green No. 8 ( 1 . 0 % ) D&C Green No. 5 ( 0 . 1 % )

wts/, 88.20 0.80 0.30 0.60 5.00 1 .oo 0.20 2.50 1.00 0,20 0.20

P r o p e r t i es : Appearance: T h i c k , b r i 11 i a n t g r e e n g e l pH: 7 . 0 - 7 . 5 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 45,000-60,000 C l a r i t y ( I T ) : 75-82 Preparation Procedure: P a r t A: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l E T D 2020 p o l y m e r i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r (20-5OC). M i x u n t i l p o l y m e r i s d i s p e r s e d . 2 . Add G l y d a n t . 3 . P a r t i a l l y n e u t r a l i z e C a r b o p o l and w a t e r m i x t u r e w i t h NaOH M i x u n t i l smooth. Part 8: 1 . I n a s i d e v e s s e l , h e a t w a t e r t o 5 0 - 5 5 C , add S i l w a x WS ( p r e m e l t ) . Mix u n t i l w e l l dispersed. 2 . D i s s o l v e d i s o d i u m EDTA i n m i x t u r e . 3 , Add a l o e ( 4 0 : l ) t o m i x t u r e . 4 . Add NaOH (18%) t o m i x t u r e . 5 . When m i x t u r e i s u n i f o r m , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x u n t i l uniform. 6 . Add d e s i r e d c o l o r . 7 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e (18%) f o r optimum c l a r i t y .

SOURCE: B . F , Goodrich C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n COO62

57

58

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Amohoteric Facial Cleanser Insredients: Wt% Water 85.95 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10 Citric Acid (25% Solution) to pH 6.0 Dimethicone Propyl-PG Betaine (Abil B 9950) 1.25 Caprylamido/Capramidopropyl Betaine (Tego Betaine 810) 7.50 Propylene Glycol 2.00 Butylene Glycol 2.00 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Tegosoft GC) 0.75 Sodium Lactate (and) Sodium PCA (and) Glycine (and) Fructose (and) Urea (and) Niacinamide (and) Inositol (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Lactic Acid (Lactil) 0.45 Preservatives Q.S. Color Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: Mix ingredients in order given. SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulation O/W-Moisturizins Milk Raw Materials: A : Hostaphat KL 340 N (Trilaureth-4 Phosphate) Hostacerin DGS (Polyglyceryl-2 PEG-4 Stearate) Mineral oil, low viscosity Cetiol V (Decyl Oleate) Walnut oil Isopropyl isostearate Antioxidant B: Carbopol 980 (Carbomer C: Aquamollin BC pdr.h.c. (Ethylene Diamine Tetraacetic Acid Sodium Sa t) Citric acid (10%) Glycerin Caustic soda solution (10%) Water Preservative D: Collagen KD Fragrance Procedure: 1. Melt A at ca. 7OC, then add B. 2 . Heat C to ca. 70C. 3. Stir 2 into 1 and stir until cool. 4. At ca. 35C add the components of D to 3 . 5 . Homogenize the emulsion. SOURCE: Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft: Formula A VI/3015

WtO

1.00 4.00

3.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 q.s.

0.30 0.10 0.25 3.00 1.20

69.85 q.s.

5.00 0.30

Beauty Aids

59

Anhydrous Deep P e n e t r a t i n g V i t a m i n Gel F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : L i g h t , smooth, and q u i c k p e n e t r a t i n g b e s t d e s c r i b e s t h i s g e l . Use o f t h i s g e l w i l l d i m i n i s h t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g by c o n d i t i o n i n g and t r e a t i n g t h e s k i n w i t h a n t i - i n f l a m m a t o r y a g e n t s . T h e a c t i v i t y comes f r o m p h y t o s t e r o l and b i o f l a v o n i d e s i n D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax. T h i s c l a s s o f c h e m i c a l s i s a l s o a s t r o n g a n t i - o x i d a n t w h i c h w i l l scavenge f r e e r a d i c a l t h e r e b y p r e v e n t i n g p o t e n t i a l premature aging.

wt%

Raw M a t e r ia1 s : S i l i c o n e O i l 556 I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e F i t o d e r m - V e g e t a l Squalane Hexanedi o l Behenyl Beeswax R i c e Bran O i 1 D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax

56.0 5.0 10.0 14.0 2.0 10.0

Vitamin A Palmitate Vitamin E K80-D22

0.5 0.5 2.0

Procedure: M e l t and m i x a l l components t o 7 5 C , i n t o container.

c o o l t o 60C and pour

A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : D i f f e r e n t o i l s may b e used, t h e g e l c o n s i s t e n c y can b e r e g u l a t e d b y c h a n g i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f K80-D22 a c c o r d i n g t o the desired r e s u l t .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Gel w i t h T h i o s o m e m

Raw M a t e r i a1 s : a ) H i s p a g e l 200 K e l t r o l , 1% aqueous s o l u t i o n Water, d i s t i 1 l e d Phenoni p C e t i o l J 600

b ) Thiosome ( P )

Q 20 I 0 0

30.00 40.70

0.30 4.00

5.00

Manufacture: a ) M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e ; b) S t i r i n . Perfume

SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r , K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: F o r m u l a

60

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

B l a c k s t a r E y e Shadow I N C I N a m e / T r a d e Name: Phase A , Talc/Supra A Lithium Stearate K a o l i n 2457 Calcium S i l i c a t e / M i c r o c e l E B i s m u t h O x y c h l o r i d e / B i r o n B-50 M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben

Wt%

25.70 2.50

5.00 0.50

3.00 0.20 0.10

Phase B : I r o n Oxides (and) Mica/Colorona B ackstar Colors

so. 0 0

Phase C : M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l Amerchol L-101 11.00 Lanolin Alcohol/Super Hartolan 1.oo White Petrolatum 1.oo Procedure: C o m b i n e Phase A . P u l v e r i z e w i t h a hammer m i l l , p a s s i n g t w i c e t h r o u g h a 0 , 0 2 7 " h e r r i n g b o n e s c r e e n . Add P h a s e B w i t h g e n t l e agitation C o m b i n e P h a s e C. H e a t t o 7 0 C . S p r a y o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g b u l k . Pass e n t i r e b a t c h t h r o u g h a jump gap, F o r m u l a AS1 - 3

E y e Shadow w i t h T i m i r o n MP-60,

MP-65

I N C I Name/Tr_ade Name: Phase A : Talc/Supra A L i t h i um S t e a r a t e K a o l i n 2457 Calcium S i l i c a t e / M i c r o c e l E Bismuth O x y c h l o r i d e ( a n d ) C a r m i n e / B i c r o n a Carmine B i s m u t h O x y c h l o r i d e / B i r o n 8-50 M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben Phase 8 : Mica (and) I r o n Oxides (and) T i t a n i u m Diox de/Ti m i r o n MP-60, MP-65

W t%

24.10 2.50 5.00 0.50 2.00 2.60

0.20 0.10

50.00

Phase C : M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l / A m e r c h o l L-101 11 .oo Lanolin Alcohol/Super Hartolan 1.oo White Petrolatum 1.oo Procedure: C o m b i n e P h a s e A . P u l v e r i z e w i t h a hammer m i l l , p a s s i n g t w i c e t h r o u g h a 0 . 0 2 7 " h e r r i n g b o n e s c r e e n . Add P h a s e B w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . C o m b i n e P h a s e C . H e a t t o 70C. S p r a y o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g b u l k . Pass e n t i r e b a t c h t h r o u g h a jump g a p . F o r m u l a AS1-5 SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c a ! S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

61

Body Mask W i t h L i p o s i l t Green A n o n - d r y i n g body mask f o r s k i n c l e a n s i n g and n o u r i s h m e n t . The L i p o s i l t Green is t h e s o u r c e o f n u t r i e n t s w h i c h y i e l d s n o u r i s h ment and l e a v e s t h e s k i n w i t h a smooth s o f t a p p e a r a n c e .

Secl: 1 2 2 3 3 4

5 5 5 6 7 7

Raw M a t e r i a l / I N C I Name: Dei o n i zed Water K e l t r o l / X a n t h a n Gum Mineral C o l l o i d BP/Montmorillonite Uniphen P-23 L i popeg 6000-DS/PEG-150 Di s t e a r a t e L i p o s i 1t Green/Si 1 t L i p o m u l s e 1 6 5 / G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 Stearate L i p 0 GMS-450/Glyceryl S t e a r a t e L i p o v o l SES/Sesame O i 1 Kaol i n D e i o n i z e d Water U n i c i d e U - I 3 / I m i d a z o l i n y l Urea

yf&? 37.33 0.12 0.10 0.60 0.05 30.00 5.00 3.00 15.00 7.50 1 .oo 0.30

Procedure: 1 . Heat Sequence # I t o 78C u s i n g o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium speed. 2 . D r y m i x Sequence #2, add s l o w l y t o Sequence # I and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y h y d r a t e d . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 78C. 3 . Add Sequence #3 i n o r d e r o f a d d i t i o n t o b a t c h u s i n g o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium speed. M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 78C. 4 . Add Sequence # 4 t o b a t c h u n d e r homomixer. H o l d t e m p e r a t u r e 78C. 5 . Heat and m e l t a t 80C Sequence # 5 and add t o b a t c h on homom i x e r . S w i t c h t o sweep b l a d e on o v e r h e a d m i x e r and c o o l t o 42C. 6 . A t 42C add Sequence #6 and m i x u n t i l t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d . Cool t o 3 5 c . 7 . A t 35C add p r e m i x e d Sequence #7 t o b a t c h and c o o l t o 25C Specifications: pH: 6.0+-0.2 V i s c o s i t y : T - D @ 3 . 0 rpm=36,000 cps+-10% The enhancement o f e p i d e r m a l c e 1 r e n e w a l i n f o r m u l a t i o n has been c o n f i r m e d .

SOURCE:

L i p 0 C h e m i c a l s I n c , : Forrnu a t i o n

No, 8 7 0

62

Cosmetic and Toletry Formulations

Cleansing G e l (Wash o f f t y p e )

Wt%

Raw M a t e r i a l s : T E m a l e x O.T.G. Emal ex CC-168 Emalex OD-25 J J B u t y l paraben

56.4 5.0 16.0 0.2

4.0 1.7 9.0 7.3 0.1

B: Glucam E-10 Glycerin S o r b i t o 1 (70% a q . ) Water Methyl paraben Colorant C:

q.s. 0.3

Perfume

Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) and ( 8 ) up a t 80C and add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) g r a d u a l l y . Cool down t h e m i x t u r e w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and add perfume a t 50C. Cool down t o b e l o w 45C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Note: T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s g e l a t 45-5OC. I f water c o n t e n t reduces by e v a p o r a t i o n d u r i n g p r o d u c t i o n , g e l c a n n o t be o b t a i n e d . P r e v e n t w a t e r e v a p o r a t i o n o r compensate w a t e r c o n t e n t i n advance. F o r m u l a A-390-18 Make up Remover (wash o f f t y p e ) Raw M a t e r i a l s : A c y l g l u t a m a t e CT-12 A c y l g l u t a m a t e CK-11 A c y l g l u t a m a t e CA Squal ane A m i t e r LGOD-5 Sodium C h l o r i d e Methyl paraben B u t y l paraben Fragrance ~~

WtO/o 40.0 8.0 8.0 21 . o

21 . o

1.5 0.2 0.1 0.2

Procedure: D i s s o l v e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s ( e x c e p t f r a g r a n c e ) a t 80C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool down w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Add f r a g r a n c e a t 40C and c o n t i n u e t o c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a No. MRJ-11

SOURCE: A j i n o r n o t o U . S m A . , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

63

C l e a n s i n g 01 . 1 1-ngredi e n t s : Macadam?a 01 1 Vegetable O i l (Panacete 8 1 0 ) P.O.E. (30) Sorbitol Tetraoleate Vitamin E Perfume M i n e r a l 01 1-70

y t 04 10.0 10.0 13.0 0.2 q.s 56.8

Mi 1k Lotion

I n g r ed ien t.s : A) P . O . E . S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e S o r b i t a n Monostearate Stearic Acid Cetanol Polysynlane Macadamia O i l B u t y l Paraben B) Glycerin X a n t h a n Gum ( 2 % s o l ) Methy I Paraben O i s t . Water C ) Perfume

wtya 2

.o

1. o

2.0 0.25 7.0

3.0 0.1 3.0

10.0 0.1 71.55 q. s

Procedure o f M i 1 k L o t i o n : 1 . H e a t A and 6 , up to 8 0 C . 2 . Add 5 t o A , and c o n t i n u e t o m i x u n t i l down t o a r o u n d 40'2. 3 . Add C . Remarks :

P . O . E . = polyoxyethylene = quantum s u f f i c i t

9,s.

A t y p i c a l p r e s c r i p t i o n example o f P o l y s y n l a n e f o r c l e a n s i n g o i l and m i l k l o t i o n . As a f a c i a l c l e a n s e r P o l y s y n l a n e i s more e f f i c i e n t t h a n g e n e r a l c l e a n s i n g creams on t h e m a r k e t , l e a v i n g an a p p r o p r i a t e o i l b a s e w h i c h h e l p s s o f t e n t h e s k i n . This m i l k l o t i o n i s designed f o r d r y s k i n , but i s a v a i l a b l e f o r normal s k i n b y a d j u s t i n g t h e c o n t e n t s o f the base o i l .

SOURCE: P o l y e s t e r C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

64

C l e a r F~ a c i a l C l_e a n s i n g _Gel

~

A c l e a r , m i l d , foaming f a c i a l c l e a n s e r designed t o p r o v i d e s t a b l e s u s p e n s i o n o f added a b r a s i v e a r t i c l e s . The Jordapon ACI-30G p r o v i d e s e x c e l l e n t f o a m i n g , g e n t l e c l e a n s i n g , and a s o f t , smooth a f t e r f e e l on t h e s k i n . -~ Part:

I n Q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Dei o n i zed Water Nonoxynol-9/Macol NP-9.5 Carbomer/Carbopol 1342

WtYQ 50.00 0.01 1.oo

B

Dei o n i zed Water TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e / S t e p a n o l WAT M e t h y l Paraben I m i d a z o l i d i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l 11 5 P E G - I 50 D i s t e a r a t e / M a p e g 6000 DS

20.00 3.50 0.15 0.15 0.50

C

Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n A C I - B O G Soyamide DEA/Mazamide SS-10 Cocami de DEA/Mazami de J T - I 2 8 Na4 EDTA

16.80

A

D

D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne

1.50 1.50 0.10 3.39 1.40

pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d # 4 @ 25C (shear s e n s i t i v e ) v e r y l o w s h e a r : 166,000 low shear: 56,400 medium s h e a r : 21,700 moderate shear: 7,620 Appearance: C l e a r , v i s c o u s y e l l o w l i q u i d

cps cps cps cps

@ 0.3 @ 1.5 @ 6 @ 30

rpm rpm rpm rpm

Procedure: D i s p e r s e t h e carbomer i n t h e p a r t A w a t e r p l u s Macol N P - 9 . 5 , s t i r r i n g f o r about 20 m i n u t e s . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e m i x t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t i n g t o 65C t o d i s s o l v e t h e Mapeg 6000 DS. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Premix t h e p a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s and add t o a d j u s t t h e pH and t h i c k e n t h e p r o d u c t .

SOURCE:

PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc,:

F o r m u l a t i o n K-107

Beauty Aids

65

Conceal ing St i ck F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s p r o d u c t c o v e r s f i n e f a c i a l l i n e s and b l e m i s h e s n a t u r a l l y , l e a v i n g a f l e x i b l e b a r r i e r w h i c h a l s o r e t a i n s m o i s t u r e and c o n d i t i o n s t h e s k i n . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) i s used as a p i g m e n t d i s p e r s e r w h i c h makes t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n e a s i e r and t h e r e b y a v o i d i n g t h e expense o f m i l l i n g . Raw M a t e r i a l s : Phase A : Castor O i l Petrolatum, White Synthetic Candelilla I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e Carnauba Wax D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax J o j o b a Wax P a r a f f i n Wax 130/135 O z o k e r i t e 170 Squal ane Vitamin E

27.3 22.0 10.0 6.0 5.0 5.0 4.0 1.5 1.o 1.o 0.5

Phase B : Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) T i t a n i um D i o x i d e Cosmetic Tan I r o n O x i d e Brown I r o n O x i d e

9.0 5.0 1.5 0.2

Phase C : Liquapar

1.o

Procedure: Heat and m i x Phase B t i l l p i g m e n t s a r e e v e n l y d i s p e r s e d . Weigh Phase A and i n d i v i d u a l l y add t o Phase B w h i l e m i x i n g . Heat A&B t i l l homogeneous, add Phase C, c o o l and p o u r a t 60C. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : By r e d u c i n g t h e wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n t h i s p r o d u c t can be p o u r e d i n t o a compact t r a y . L a r g e v a r i a t i o n s can b e made i n wax and o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n s t h a t a r e i n c o r p o r a t e d i n s t i c k p r o d u c t s and s t i l l p r o d u c e a s i m i l a r f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t .

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen I n c a : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

66

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Creamy Liauid Make-UD Inqredients: Phase A: Ceteareth-15 and Glyceryl Stearate (Tego Care 215) Cetyl Alcohol (Tego Alkanol 16) Stearoxy Dimethicone (Abil Wax 2434) Octyl Stearate (Tegosoft 0 s ) Octyl Palmitate (Tegosoft OP) Isoeicosane Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Tegosoft CT) Phase B: Water Preservatives Glycerin Butylene Glycol

Wt% 2.20 1.75 0.25 3.00 3.00 5.00 5.00 60.60 Q.S.

1.00 3.00

Phase C: Carbomer 941 Octyl Palmitate (Tegosoft OP)

0.20 0.80

Phase D: Titanium Dioxide Mica Talc Iron Oxides

9.00 2.00 2.00 1.20

Phase E: Sodium Hydroxide (10%) Fragrance

to pH 6.0 Q.S.

Procedure: 1. Heat the ingredients of Phase A to 80C. Mix well. 2 . Heat the ingredients of Phase B to 8OC. Mix well to dissolve preservatives. 3 . Add B to A or A to B with mixing. Cool to 60-65C. 4. Continue mixing. Add Phase C. 5. Homogenize. 6. While homogenizing, add pigments. 7. After homogenization, cool to 40-45C with sweep mixing. 8. Adjust pH. Fragrance. SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulation

Beauty Aids

67

Dark Beiqe Makeup with Teqo Care 4 5 0 Ingredients: Wt% Phase A: 2.0 Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care 450) Almond Oil 2.0 Cyclomethicone 3.5 Cetyl Dimethicone (Abil Wax 9 8 0 1 ) 1.0 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (Tegosoft CT) 4.0 1.5 Iron Oxides Titanium Dioxide 6.0 Phase B: Glycerin 2.0 Water 76.6 Phase C: 0.2 Carbomer 941 Isopropyl Palmitate (Tegosoft P) 0.8 Phase D: Sodium Hydroxide (10% solution) 0.4 Phase E: Preservative Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1. Heat the ingredients of Phase A to 8OC. Disperse Iron Oxides and Titanium Dioxide into Phase A with sufficient agitation. 2 . Heat the ingredients of Phase B to 8OC. 3. Add A to B with agitation. 4 . Homogenize. 5. Disperse Carbomer into the oil/ester add to A/B. Homogenize. 6. Cool to 35-40C with stirring. 7 . Add Phase D/E. Stir. 8 . Mix until viscosity profile is obtained. Facial Cleaner and Toner Inqredients: Water Tetrasodium EDTA Aloe A1 1antoin PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (Tegosoft GMC 6) Caprylamido/Capramidopropyl Betaine (Tego Betaine 810) Lactil Organic Extracts Propylene Glycol SDA Alcohol 40 Preservatives Color Fragrance Procedure: Mix ingredients in order, mixing until clear.

Wts,

83.40 0.10 1.00

0.30 1.50 3.70 2.00 2.00 1.00 5.00 Q.S. Q.S.

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulations

Q.S.

68

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Deep E x t r a Body C o n d i t i o n e r F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s formula u t i l i z e s t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e Hexanediol Behenyl Beeswax i n a s i l i c o n e o i l and t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s o f Bee's M i l k .

__ Raw M a t e r i a1 s :

K

O i l Phase A : E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF S i l i c o n e O i 1 245 S i 1 i cone O i 1 556 Hexanedi o l Behenyl Beeswax Lecithin

O

3.0 2.5 2.0 1.0 1.o

Water Phase B : Carbopol 940 (2% s o l u t i o n ) Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e Triethanolamine Cocami de S i l k Powder M a r i n e Dew S i l k Soluble Liquid Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d )

68.3

Phase C : Bee's M i l k Germaben I 1 Fragrance

10.0 1.o 0.2

10.0 0.5 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1

Procedure: M i x and h e a t w a t e r phase t o 70-75C. M e l t o i l phase and add t o w a t e r phase a t 70-75C under a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 45C add Phase C and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r a t 35C. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Changes i n t h e a c t i v e s and t h e c o n d i t i o n e r s a r e s t r a i g h t f o r w a r d , s i m p l e r e p l a c e m e n t s . G a f q u a t ' s w o u l d be a c l a s s o f c o n d i t i o n e r s would f i t t h i s formula w e l l . SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Beauty Aids

69

E m o l l i e n t L i q u i d Make-Uq F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : Conceals m i n o r s k i n i m p e r f e c t i o n s , y e t m o i s t u r i z e s , g i v i n g s k i n a s o f t dewy f i n i s h . T h i s p r o d u c t has tremendous endurance through very vigorous a c t i v i t i e s . Raw M a t e r ia1 s : ______

Phase A : Xanthan Gum Gel 1u l ose Gum Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne PEG 1450 M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l P o l y s o r b a t e 60

wts/, 0.33 0.23 50.55 0.70 2.35 0.28 1.08 0.47

Phase 8 : Titanium Dioxide Brown I r o n O x i d e Y e l l o w BC I r o n O x i d e s Orange Wax Cera B e l l i n a

8.44 2.35 0.94 6.10 4.69

Phase C : Octyl Palmitate S i l i c o n e 245 I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e Hydrogenated Castor O i l Isostearic Acid Jojoba O i l Propylene Glycol Stearate P r o p y l Paraben

6.57 2.00 6.10 1 .41 1 .50 0.94 1.89 0.28

Procedure: D i s p e r s e p i g m e n t s i n t h e Orange Wax and Cera B e l l i n a i n a b e a k e r w i t h a g l a s s s t i r r i n g r o d , a l l o w t o s o l i d i f y . Repeat s o - a s - t o b r e a k u p v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r a t i o n s . M i x and h e a t t o 75C Phase C u n t i l u n i f o r m , add t o Phase B u n d e r a g i t a t i o n , maint a i n i n g t h e t e m p e r a t u r e t i l l homogeneous. Add t h e m i x e d and m e l t e d Phase B and C t o t h e m i x e d and m e l t e d Phase A . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g , p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 50C. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Sunscreens, v e g e t a b l e o i l s and b r a n c h e d o i l s can be s u b s t i t u d e d i n m i n o r amounts s i n c e p r o d u c t s such as t h e s e a r e sensi t i v e t o s m a l l changes t h a t w i l l a f f e c t s t a b i l i t y .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

70

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

E s t e r Based. L i p s t i c k Ingredients: WtYO Phase A : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g i n M) 40.00 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 3.00 Cetearyl Octanoate (Tegosoft L i q u i d ) 3.00 Mineral O i l 4.00 Castor O i l 19.50 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 1 4 ) 0.50 Petrolatum 6.00 Carnauba 5.00 Ozokeri t e 2.00 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 2.00 Phase B : Pigments i n Castor O i l ) 15.00 Castor O i l ) Phase C: Antioxidants Q.S Fragrance Q.S F1 a v o r Q.S Procedure: 1 . M e l t t o g e t h e r t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A ( 8 0 9 O C ) . M i x u n t i uniform. 2 . Add t h e p i g m e n t g r i n d s a n d t h e r e m a i n i n g C a s t o r O i l 3 . Add Phase C . 4. Mold. Sheer L i q u i d Foundation Ingredients: Phase A : I r o n Oxides (micron z e d / s i l i c o n e t r e a t e d ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (m c r o n i z e d / s i l i c o n e t r e a t e d ) T a l c ( s i l i c o n e t r e a ed) Cyclomethicone Cetearyl Octanoate (Tegosoft L i q u i d ) Pol ydecene Phase B : D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 EM 9 7 ) Cyclometh cone Phenyl T r methicone ( A b i l AV 2 0 ) Fragrance Phase C : P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Water S o d i u m Ch o r id e Preservat ves Procedure: 1 . M i x Phase A . M i 1 1 . 2 . M i x Phase B. Add t o Phase A . 3 . M i x Phase C , a d d s l o w l y t o A/B 4 . Homogeni z e . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l

Wt%

1.60 6.00 4.00 9.00 2.00 3.00

2.80 9.00 1 .oo Q.S. 6.00 54.35 1.25 Q.S.

Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

Eye C o n t o u r u

r

n

F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and Advantages: T h i s p r o d u c t i s d e s i g n e d t o r e d u c e t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g and f a t i g u e a r o u n d t h e e y e s . The p r o d u c t ' s a c t i v i t y comes f r o m B a r l e y Beta Glucan which h e l p s promote t h e h e a l i n g o f s k i n t h r o u g h t h e r e d u c t i o n o f i r r i t a t i o n . D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax m o i t u r i z e s and p r o t e c t s t h e s k i n f r o m t h e sun due t o t h e strong antioxidant properties. Raw M a t e r i a l s : O i l Phase: O y s t e r Nut O i l S i 1 i c o n y l Beeswax R i c e Bran O i l Saf f 1ower O i 1 D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax Isostearic Acid Isopropyl Palmitate Vitamin E Isostearic Acid C e t y l s t e a r y l Alcohol Squal ane Isopropyl Palmitate Hydroxy P o l y e s t e r Liquapar Water Phase: Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) A1 1 a n t o i n Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 icat.e Sodi um B o r a t e M e t h y l Paraben Xanthan Gum B a r l e y 1 - 3 B e t a G l u c a n 70%

Wt% 2.0 5.0 2.0

6.0 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 2.5 1.5 1.o 2.0 1.2 0.4

76.1 1.o 1.2 0.8 1.2 1,2 0.2

Procedure: Weigh o u t i n g r e d i e n t s f o r Water Phase. Heat t o 8OC w h i l e m i x i n g v i g o r o u s l y ( w i t h o u t a d d i n g a i r ) . Heat O i l Phase t o 80C w h i l e m i x i n g . Add O i l Phase t o Water Phase under r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and i t I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : N a t u r a l p r e s e r v a t i v e s may be s u b s t i t u t e d f o r t h e s y n t h e t i c s i n t h e f o r m u l a . D i f f e r e n t o i l s may b e s u b s t i t u t e d .

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

71

72

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

__ Ingredients:

YL%

Phase A : H20 C a r b o p o l 934

79.80 0.35

Phase B: P r o d u c t S E - 1 0 0 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e & PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) Petrolatum Super H a r t o l an Canol i n H e s t CSO ( C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e ) H e s t IS-2-0 ( I s o c e t e a r e t h - 2 O c t a n o a t e ) Hest L-2-0 (Laureth-2 Octanoate) Cocoa B u t t e r

3.00 3.50 2.40 2.00 1.70 1.40 1 .40 1.70

Phase C: H20, D e i o n i zed T E A 99%

1 .oo 0.75

Phase D : Germaben I 1 E

1 .oo

Specifications: pH: 7 . 5 0 V i s c . #4/12:

40,000

cps

Procedure: 1 I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e , d i s p e r s e Carbopol 934 i h t o H20 using a l i g h t n i n ' type mixer. 2 When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d a n d f r e e o f l u m p s , h e a t t o 75C while mixing. 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e , c o m b i n e P h a s e B a n d h e a t t o 75C w h i l e mixing. 4 . A t 75C, a d d P h a s e 8 t o P h a s e A . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 5 . Add p r e m i x e d P h a s e C . M i x w e l l . 6 . C o o l t o b e l o w 40C a n d a d d P h a s e 0 .

. .

SOURCE:

Heterene, I n c . :

F o r m u l a t i o n HC94-147

Beauty Aids

73

F a c i a l Scrub No. .__ Phase: I n g r e d i e n t : 1 A Carbomer 15.00 2 A Deionized water 57.75 3 A Propylene g l y c o l 2.50 A A l o e Vera g e l 0.25 4 5 B Cyclomethicone 5.00 6 B O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l 2.50 7 B S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 3.50 6 B Emulsifier 1.oo 9 B Isopropyl myristate 10.00 10 C T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% 1.00 11 D P o l y e t h y l e n e AC-9A 1.50 12 E Preservative QS Manufacturing Procedure: Phase A : D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n t o w a t e r w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 75'2. Add P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and A l o e Vera g e l . Phase B: Heat o i l phase t o 75C. Add t o w a t e r phase. Phase C : Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o o i l / w a t e r m i x t u r e . Cool t o 40C. Phase D : Add P o l y e t h y l e n e AC-9A. Phase E : Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . Carbomer i s t h e s u s p e n d i n g a g e n t . T h i s s c r u b i s d e s i g n e d f o r p e o p l e w i t h o i l y s k i n and needs t o have a d r y i n g e f f e c t . Uses t w o v e r y d r y emollients-cyclomethicone and i s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e . They l e a v e a d r y f e e l i n g s k i n . The O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l l e a v e s t h e s k i n w i t h a f r e s h , m o i s t a f t e r f e e l . Kukui n u t o i l w o u l d a l s o work v e r y w e l l i n t h i s f o r m u l a . SOURCE: O i l s o f A l o h a : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

_-~__ C l e a r Faci a1 C1 ____. eanser Moderatelv D r i c e d formula. Verv m i l d f a c i a l c l e a n s e r t h a t conditions t h e ' s k i n while i t cleans. V i s c o s i t y : 600 t o 1100 c p s pH: 6 . 0 I. ngredients: D e i o n i z e d Water 65.12 2.50 Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e ( 8 0 % a c t i v e ) Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (33% a c t i v e ) 13.32 Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne (35% a c t i v e ) 14.29 Ucare Polymer LR-400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 0.10 1.25 Sodium X y l e n e s u l f o n a t e (40% a c t i v e ) Ucon 50-HB-660 (PPG-12-Buteth-16) 0.02 1.oo Glucam E - 1 0 ( M e t h y l G l u c e t h - 1 0 ) G l u c q u a t 125 ( L a u r y l M e t h y l G l u c e t h - 1 0 H y d r o x y p r o p y l Dimonium C h l o r i d e ) 2.00 DMDM H y d a n t o i n 0.40 Procedure: Add t h e sodium x y l e n e s u l f o n a t e t o t h e w a t e r w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e s p r i n k l i n g i n t h e U c a r e Polymer LR-400. Once t h e p o l y m e r i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , h e a t t o 70C. When t h e p o l y m e r i s h y d r a t e d , add t h e sodium c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e , cocamidop r o p y l b e t a i n e and ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e , i n t h a t o r d e r , w a i t i n g f o r each t o d i s s o l v e b e f o r e a d d i n g t h e n e x t . Once u n i f o r m , add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e i n t h e o r d e r shown. A l l o w t o c o o l t o a t l e a s t 40C, t h e n add p r e s e r v a t i v e . SOURCE: Amerchol: F o r m u l a t i o n T 8 2 - 2 6 7 - 5

74

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

F a c i a l Wash w i t h S a l i c y l i c A c i d

Wt%

Insredients: Water Sodium C14-16 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e Monalac MA0 Phosphol ip i d G L A Sodium C h l o r i d e S a l i c y l i c Acid

44.0 40.0 10.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 0 - 3 . 5 V i s c o s i t y 13,500 c p s Clear Viscous F l u i d Procedure: Add f i r s t t h r e e i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h m i l d h e a t . S e q u e n t i a l l y , b l e n d i n r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , t h e n add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and package. F o r m u l a t i o n F-685 M i 1 k En_r_l_chedFacj-Sl-Cleanser

(Clear)

ytx

Raw -Mater ia 1-: Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (250/) Monalac MPL Monalac M O Sodium C h l o r i d e Fragrance Monalac MAB

55.00 35.00 2.00 2.00 1 .oo qs 5.00

Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d and a d l u s t pH t o 6 . 5 t o 7 . 5 P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t ies : Appearance: C1 e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C ( c P ) : 5 , 0 0 0

t o 10,000 v a r i e s w i t h pH

Formulation F-723

SOURCE:

Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

75

Foami nq F a c i a1 C1 e a n s e r

Raw M a t e r i a1 si A m i s o f t CT-12s ( 3 0 % ) Cocamide DEA ( A m i s o l CDE) Butylene Glycol PEG-40 H y d r o g e n a t e d C a s t o r O i l PCA I s o s t e a r a t e ( P y r o t e r CPI-40) A j i d e w N-50 (50%) Methyl paraben Sodium b e n z o a t e Water

W

X

33.0 2.0 5.0 2.0 1. o 0.2 0.2

qs

1 . A l l i n g r e d i e n t s d i s s o l v e a t 70-80C w i t h s t i r r i n g 2 . Cool down t o 30C.

pH: 5 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 6 . 1 mPa-s Formula SP-01

( B type\No

1 \ 3 0 rpm\30

sec.\25C)

Skin Tonic

_______ Raw M a t e r i a l s : A j i d e w N-50 A1 1a n t o i n L - S e r i ne D i p o t a s s i um G l y c y r r h i z i n a t e Butylene g l y c o l Methyl paraben Ethanol Water

Wt% 3.0 0.1 0.5 0.1 2.0 0.05 8.0 86.25

Procedure: D i s s o l v e t h e above i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t e t h a n o l a t 70-80C and c o o l down t o 50C. Add e t h a n o l t o t h e s o l u t i o n and c o o l down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Formula No. L-100

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

76

Cosmetic and Toi/etry Formulations

Glisteninq Body Colosne This formula is a soft, shimmering fragrance lotion with Velsan D8P-3 liquid which leaves the skin luxuriously soft. Inqredients: Wt% Phase A: Isopropyl Palmitate 4.00 Stearic Acid 1.00 Mineral Oil 2.00 Velsan D8P-3 (l)(Isopropyl PPG-2 Isodeceth-7 Carboxylate) 3.00 Glyceryl Monostearate 1.50 Propyl Paraben 0.10 Timica (2) (Mica and Titanium Dioxide) 3.00 Phase B: Deionized Water Glycerin Carbopol 941 (3) (Carbomer-941) Triethanolamine 99% Dow Corning 200 Fluid (4) (Dimethicone) Dimethicone Copolyol Phase C: Fragrance Dye

74.65 5.00 0.25 1.00 2.00 0.20 2.50 qs

Procedure: Heat Phase A to 77C. Separately heat Phase B to 77C. Add Phase A to Phase B. Cool with stirring to 45C. Add Phase C, continue cooling and stirring to 40C. Appearance: White pearly lotion pH: 7.0+-0.3 Viscosity: 33OOt-500 cps Notes : (1) Clariant Corp. (3) BF Goodrich

(2) Mearl Corp. ( 4 ) Dow Corning

SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Technical Bulletin CMP-O9/Ref: CL15-19C

Beauty Aids

77

Liqht Face Fluid with Emulqade PL 6 8 / 5 0 ComDonent: I Emulgade PL 68/50/Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol Monomu 1s 60-35C/Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Cetiol J 600/01evl Erucate Myritol 331/Cocoglycerides Cetiol OE/Dicaprylyl Ether Baysilon M 350/Dimethicone Copherol 1250/Tocopheryl Acetate I1

Glycerin 86% Carbopol 5984/Carbomer KOH 5%

wt% 2.7

1.6 3.0 4.0 2.0

0.5 1.0 3.0 0.05

0.2 79.95

I11 Water

Preservative/Perfume

q.s.

Viscosity mPas: 15,600 Preparation in the Laboratory: Heat phase I to 80C. Heat phase I1 to 80C and add the oil phase while stirring. Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring. The stirring rate must be selected in such a way that the emulsion is kept in continual motion without developing a socalled "stirring cone". Add the 2 % Carbopol swelling at 50C. Neutralization at 40C. Add preservative and perfume at room temperature. Formulation No.: 96/164/4 Facial Cleansinq Gel with Gluadin WO Component: Plantacare PS 10/Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Lauryl Glucoside Gluadin WQ/Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein NaCl Water Preservative/Perfume

12.0

2.0 2.0

84.0 q.s

pH-Value: 5.6 WAS: 8 . 0 Viscosity Brookfield mPas, RVT, 20C, Rotor 4, 10 rpm: 6,000 Preparation in the Laboratory: Mix ingredients at room temperature Hint: Kind and amount of perfume may influence the viscosity of the product. Formulation No.: 94/138/40

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations

78

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

LiDcare Wt$ Component: I Myritol 318/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 14.0 Myritol PC/Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate Dicaprate 6.5 Ultra Lantrol HP 2074/Lanolin Oil 2.7 IPP/Isopropyl Palmitate 13.0 Candelilla Cera 7.0 Lunacera M/Microcrystalline wax 2.7 Carnauba Cera 1.0 Cera Alba 4.3 Lanolin 7.5 Monomuls 60-35C/Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides 3.7 Controx KS 0.05 Hombitec L5/Titanium dioxide 5.4 22.15 Ricinus communis/Castor oil I1 Hydagen CMF/Chitosan Glycolate 10.0 Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Melt the components listed under I at 80-85C and stir until the pigments are completely incorporated. Homogenize once with a triple roll press and heat up again to 80-85C. 2. Add the ingredients of phase I1 one after the other and stir for 5 minutes at 8OC. Pass mixture twice more through the triple roll press and melt again at approx. 80C. 3. For a pearl-shine lipstick add the pearliser and stir until homogeneous. 4. Cast with stirring into the moulds. Allow to cool down to approx. 30C and keep in the refrigerator over night. Formulation No.: 94/056/146

Lipstick

Wt% ComDonent: I Myritol 318/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 14.0 Myritol PC/Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 6.0 17.0 Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol Candelilla Wax 5.0 Carnauba Wax 7.0 Bienenwachs 8100 5.0 Dehymuls PGPH/Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 4.0 3.0 Monomuls 90 L 12/Glyceryl Laurate Castor oil 18.0 Color pigments q.s. I1 Hydagen CMF/Chitosan Glycolate 10.0 Copherol F1300/Tocopherol 2.0 Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Melt the components listed under I at 80C and stir until homogeneous. 2. Add components listed under I1 at room temperature. Stir for 5 minutes at 80C. 3. Homogenise twice with a triple roll press and heat up again to 80C. 4. Add phase 111. Stir until homogeneous and immediately pour the formulation hot in the form and allow them to cool down over night. Formulation No. 94/056/181 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations

Beauty Aids

79

Liposome Emu 1 s iE This l i g h t , m i l k y w h i t e emulsion c o n t a i n s liposomes t h a t d e l i v e r Evening Primrose O i l , which a r e r i c h i n gamma-linolenic a c i d and p r o v i d e e x c e l l e n t m o i s t u r i z i n g and s o f t e n i n g b e n e f i t s . I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: P a r t A: Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ Pemulen T R - 1 Carbomer/Carbopol U l t r e z 1 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e / C e t i o l 868 Mineral O i l

0.25 0.20 8.00 10.00

P a r t B: Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r i n

75.55 2.00

wts/,

Part C: Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 8 % )

0.50

P a r t D: Phenoxyethanol ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) B u t y l p a r a b e n (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben/Phenonip L e c i t h i n ( a n d ) E v e n i n g P r i m r o s e O i l / B r o o k s o m e EPO

0.50 3.00

P r o p e r t ie s : pH: 6 . 2 - 6 . 6 V i scosi t y (cP) : 11,000-1 4 , 0 0 0 Appearance: M i 1ky-whi t e emu1 s i on Preoaration Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A i n t h e c o n t a i n e r t h a t w i l l h o l d t h e f i n a l p r o d u c t . Mix t h e i n g r e d i e n t s w e l l t o disperse t h e polymers. 2 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B and mix u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Add 3 / 4 o f P a r t B t o P a r t A s l o w l y w i t h s t r o n g m i x i n g . M i x f o r a b o u t 15 m i n u t e s t o s w e l l t h e p o l y m e r s . 4 . When t h e e m u l s i o n i s smooth and w h i t e , add p a r t o f t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e and b r i n g t h e pH t o a b o u t 7 . 0 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . 5 . S l o w l y add t h e r e m a i n d e r o f P a r t B w i t h m o d e r a t e m i x i n g . 6 . Add remai n i ng s o d i um h y d r o x i d e . 7 . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t h e l i p o s o m e s u s i n g slow a g i t a t i o n t o a v o i d r u p t u r i n g liposomes. Mix u n t i l uniform.

SOURCE:

B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a PO050

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

80

Lipstick F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and Advantages: T h i s r e d l i p s t i c k h a s a creamy t e x t u r e and i s l o n g w e a r i n g . The l i p s t i c k i s v e r y s t a b l e , a l t h o u g h i t h a s a h i g h o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Cera B e l l i n a a l l o w s f o r h i g h c o l o r a t i o n w i t h o u t l a r g e p i g m e n t l o a d and i m p a r t s a s a t i n l i k e f e e l t o t h e l i p s . Raw M a t e r ia1 s : 1 . C e r a B e l l i n a ( P g - 3 Beeswax) 2 . C a n d e l i 11 a 3 . O z o k e r i t e 160/164 4 . Carnauba # I Y e l l o w 5. Castor O i l 6. P a r a f f i n O i l 7. Isopropyl Palmitate 8 . Jojoba O i l 9. Vitamin E IO.D&C Red # 7 11 E s c a l o l 5 0 7 12.Titanium Dioxide 1 3 . P r o p y l Paraben

.

Wx/n

16.70 3.10 4.20 1.20 45.70 16.30 6.20 1.oo 0.50 4.00 0.75 0.25 0.10

Procedure: Add 1 , 1 0 , a n d 1 3 i n t o a v e s s e l l a r g e e n o u g h t h a t w i l l a l l o w t h e o t h e r components t o b e added a f t e r t h e C e r a B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) and p i g m e n t s have been m e l t e d (75C) and m i x e d t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e i n t e n t i o n o f b r e a k i n g down a s many o f t h e v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r a t i o n s . A f t e r t h e v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r a t i o n s have been s e p a r a t e d add 2 , 3 a n d 4 t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n w h i l e m i x i n g . I n c r e a s e t h e t e m p e r a t u r e s l i g h t l y i f n e e d e d t o m e l t t h e c a r n a u b a . Then t h e r e m a i n d e r o f t h e components c a n be added and m i x e d a t a tempe r a t u r e o f 70C. A f t e r t h e p r o d u c t i s homogeneous, u s e a s h e a r m i x e r a t l o w s p e e d f o r 45 t o 60 m i n u t e s , m a i n t a i n i n g a s i m i l a r temperature. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a a n d i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Other o i l s n a t u r a l o r s y n t h e t i c can e a s i l y be s u b s t i t u t e d t o meet t h e f o r m u l a t o r ' s n e e d s , c o s t , a v a i l a b i l i t y , e t c . w i t h o u t s i g n i f i c a n t l y changing t h e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . Higher m e l t i n g p o i n t s can e a s i l y be achieved w i t h o n l y s l i g h t a l t e r a t i o n s i n wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . B i o l o g i c a l l y a c t i v e compounds a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e f o r m u l a s . D e p e n d i n g on t h e d e s i r e d c o l o r and t h e b l e n d o f p i g m e n t s used, t h e r e w i l l be a need f o r s m a l l i n g r e d i e n t c o n c e n t r a t i o n changes i n t h e f o r m u l a due t o t h e p i g m e n t ' s e f f e c t on t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e m i x t u r e .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Beauty Aids

81

L ips t ic & Component: .W - t% I.M y r i t o l 318 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 14.0 6.0 M y r i t o 1 PC P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e Eutanol G Octyldodecanol 17.0 Candel i 11 a Cera 7.0 Carnauba Cera 5.5 Cera A l b a 6.5 2.5 G e n e r o l 122 N Soya S t e r o l Dehymuls PGPH P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e 4.0 3.0 Monomuls 9 0 L 12 H y d r o g e n a t e d Palm G l y c e r i d e s 18.0 R i c i nus communi s C a s t o r o i 1 Color pigments q.s. 1 I . H y d a g e n CMF C h i t o s a n G l y c o l a t e 10.0 I I I . C o p h e r o 1 F 1300 T o c o p h e r o l 2.0 Preparation i n the Laboratory: 1 . M e l t t h e components l i s t e d under I a t 80-85C and s t i r u n t i l t h e p i g m e n t s a r e c o m p l e t e l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . Homogenise once w i t h a t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and h e a t up a g a i n t o 80-85C. 2 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase 1 1 one a f t e r t h e o t h e r and s t i r f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t 8OC. Pass m i x t u r e t w i c e more t h r o u g h t h e t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and m e l t a g a i n a t a p p r o x . 80C. 3 . F o r a p e a r l - s h i n e l i p s t i c k add t h e p e a r l i s e r and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Cast w i t h s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e m o u l d s . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o a p p r o x . 30C and keep i n t h e r e f r i g e r a t o r o v e r n i g h t . F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 94/056/178 L -i p~s

tick

. Component: .-

y/t/ M y r i t o 1 31 8 C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 14.0 6.0 M y r i t o 1 PC P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e 17.0 Eutanol G Octyldodecanol 5.5 Candel i 11 a Cera Carnauba Cera 7.0 Bienenwachs 8100 Cera A l b a 6.5 G e n e r o l 122 N Soya S t e r o l 2.5 Dehymul s PGPH P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e 4.0 Monomuls 90 L 12 H y d r o g e n a t e d Palm G l y c e r i d e s 3.0 Castor o i l 18.0 9,s. Color pigments I 1 Hydagen CMF C h i t o s a n G l y c o l a t e 10.0 2.0 I I I C o p h e r o l F 1300 T o c o p h e r o l Preparation i n the Laboratory: 1 . M e l t t h e components l i s t e d under I . a t 80-85C and s t i r u n t i l t h e p i g m e n t s a r e c o m p l e t e l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . Homogenise once w i t h a t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and h e a t up a g a i n t o 80-85C. 2 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase I 1 one a f t e r t h e o t h e r and s t i r f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t 8OC. Pass m i x t u r e t w i c e more t h r o u g h t h e t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and m e l t a g a i n a t a p p r o x . 80C. 3 . F o r a p e a r l - s h i n e l i p s t i c k add t h e p e a r l i s e r and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Cast w i t h s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e m o u l d s . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o a p p r o x . 30C and keep i n t h e r e f r i g e r a t o r o v e r n i g h t . F o r m u l a t i o n No.: 94/056/179

I.

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

82

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

L-is _s_t_l:ck wto/, 30.0 3.0

R&W-M3!SIi3.lS_1 A : Castor o i l D&C Red #7 Amihope LL Mica T i 02 B:

1.o 12.0 4.0

22.4 5.7 1.8 4.0 9.0 2.0 0.1 5.0

Castor o i l Candellila Carnauba Cereci n M y r i t o l 318 Mineral o i l Propyl paraben Eldew CL-301

Procedure: M i x ( A ) p i g m e n t s w i t h Amihope L L i n a h i g h speed m i x e r f o r several minutes, then disperse t h e t r e a t e d pigments i n c a s t o r o i l with t r i p l e r o l l m i l l . D i s s o l v e a l l ( B ) i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h h e a t i n g and add t o ( A ) i n t r i p l e r o l l m i l l . M o l d and c o o l down. F o r m u l a LP-205 Lipstick WJ R 55.0 4.8 2.0 4.0 15.0 5.0

Ingredients: Castor o i l C a n d e l i l 1 a wax Carnauba wax Ozokeri t e C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i de Eldew CL-301

A:

B:

7.4 2.2 3.0 1.6

Mica ron oxide Ye1 1 ow D&C Red # 7 A m i hope LL

Procedure: M i x ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 80C. M i x ( B ) i n g r e d i e n t s i n a t u r b o a f i n e & homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s o b t a i n e d . Add mixer u n t i ( B ) t o ( A ) and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m , t h e n p o u r i n t o m o l d s . Features: Eldew CL-301 i m p r o v e s s p r e a d a b i l i t y , colors i n lipsticks. F o r m u l a LP-203 SOURCE:

Ajinomoto U . S . A . ,

g l o s s and v i v i d n e s s o f

I n c . : Eldew CL-301 A p p l i c a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

Lipstick with Mialvol Gel Raw Materials: A) Miglyol Gel B (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate) Dynacerin 660 (Oleyl Erucate) Softisan 649 (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) Miglyol 829 (Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride) Imwitor 780K (Isostearyl Diglyceryl Succinate) Softigen 767 (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) Lanolin Oil Beeswax Candelilla Wax

Wt% 10.00 5.00 10.00 6.00 6.00 5.00

10.00 7.00 8.00

B) Rewopal PIB 1000 (Polyisobutene) Lanolin Wax Sodium Stearate Antioxidants

22.00

C) Color Fragrance

10.00

10.00 1.00 g.s. 0.50

Preparation: (A) is melted and stirred until homogeneous. (B) is melted and added to (A). (C) is added, and the mass is poured into molds. Formulation Z.ZB(1)

Creamy LiDstick Base (With AHA-Ester1 Raw Materials: Imwitor 370 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Imwitor 380 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Softisan 100 (Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides) Softisan 649 (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) Dynacerin 660 (Oleyl Erucate) Castor Oil Beeswax/Carnauba Wax Antioxidants

Wt% 5.00

8.00

28.00 15.00 12.00 15.00 17.00 q.s.

Preparation: All ingredients are melted together at about 75 degrees C. Formulation 2.2R SOURCE: Creanova I n c . : Suggested Formulations

83

84

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lip Stick with Softisan Gel Raw Materials: A ) Softisan Gel (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1 (and)

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate) Dynacerin 660 (Oleyl Erucate) Softisan 649 (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) Softisan 100 (Hydrogenated Cocoglycerides) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) White Soft Paraffin Hard Paraffin Beeswax

4.50 2.50 5.50 27.00

16.00 9.00 14.00 10.50 10.00 1.00

B) Color Fragrance

Preparation: (A) is melted and stirred until homogeneous. (B) is added, and it is poured into molds. Formulation 2.2M(2) Lip Care Stick with SPF ca.6 Raw Materials: wt% A) Miglyol 840 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate) 11.00 4.00 Softisan 649 (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) 9.00 Beeswax 4.00 Candelilla Wax 2.00 Paraffin Oil 56.00 Castor Oil 6.00 Sachtotec LA 10 (Zinc Oxide) 4.00 Eusolex 6007 (octyl Dimethyl PABA) 1.00 Timiron Silk Red (Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide) B) Fragrance Antioxidants

q.s. q.s.

Preparation: (A) is heated up to 80 degrees C, and stirred until homogeneous. (€3) is added, and the mass is poured into molds. Formulation 2.29 SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Beauty Aids

L i p s t i c k w i t h T i m i r o n M P - 6 0 , MP-65 I N C I Name/Trade Name: Wt% Phase A : Castor O i l 7.00 D&C Red #7 C a l c i u m L a k e / C I S - O l l R u b i n e L a k e 1.50 D&C Red # 6 B a r i u m L a k e ( a n d ) R o s i n / C 1 9 - 0 2 2 L i g h t R u b i n e Lake 1.50 Phase B: Castor O i l 33.70 C a n d e l l i 1 a Wax 5.70 C a r n a u b a Wax 1.80 O z o k e r i t e Wax #77W 1.50 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax # 2 1 4 3.00 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e / M y r i t o 1 318 16.00 M i n e r a l O i 1 90 SUS/Blandol 2.00 O c t y l d o d e c y l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e / C e r a p h y l 847 5.00 O c t y l Dodecanol/Eutanol G 5.00 H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n/OH1 a n 1.oo M e t h y l Paraben 0,20 P r o p y l Paraben 0.10 Phase C : Mica (and) I r o n Oxides (and) T i t a n i u m Dioxide/ T i m i r o n MP-60, MP-65 15.00 Procedure: Combine Phase A . S t i r w i t h a h i g h i n t e n s i t mixer u n t i l homogeneous. P a s s a c r o s s a t h r e e r o l l m i l l u n i 1 a g g l o m e r a t e s a r e r e d u c e d t o l e s s t h a n 25 urn. Combine Phase 8 . H e a t t o 80-85C w i t h Lightnin' mixer agitation, s t i r r i n g u n t i c l e a r . Add Phase A . Add Phase C , m a i n t a i n i n g a g i t a t i o n u n t i l d s p e r s e d . P o u r i n t o ambient t e m p e r a t u r e molds a t 72-74C. F o r m u l a AS1 - 9

____ Blackstar Lipstick I N C I Name/Trade Name: _ W _t % Phase A : Castor O i l 39.40 C a n d e l l i 1 a Wax 6.30 C a r n a u b a Wax 2.00 O z o k e r i t e Wax #77W 1.80 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax # 2 1 4 3.30 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e / M y r i t o l 318 17.70 M i n e r a l O i l 90 S U S / B l a n d o l 2.20 O c t y l d o d e c y l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e / C e r a p h y l 847 5.55 Octyldodecanol/Eutanol G 5.55 Hydroxylated Lanolin/OHlan 1. l o M e t h y l Paraben 0.20 P r o p y l Paraben 0.10 Phase B: I r o n O x i d e s and M i c a / C o l o r o n a B l a c k s t a r C o l o r s 15.00 Procedure: Combine Phase A . H e a t t o 80-85C w i t h L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add Phase B, m a i n t a i n i n g a g i t a t i o n u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Pour i n t o a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e m o l d s a t 72-74C. F o r m u l a AS1 - 7 SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

85

86

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Liauid Crystal Make-up Inqredients: Wt% A) Water 58.70 Arlatone 2121, Sorbitan Stearate (and) Sucrose Cocoate 2.50 Glycerin 4.00 B) Ultrafine Titanium Dioxide, Titanium Dioxide 12.00 Yellow Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide 2.00 Red Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide 0.40 Black Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide 0.25 C) Xanthan Gum 0.15 D) Arlamol S7, Cyclomethicone (and) PPG-15 Stearyl Ether 20.00 E) Preservative, Quaternium-15 Q.S. Preparation Method: 1) Heat and stir (A) to BOC. 2) Blend (B) well at room temperature. 3 ) Slowly add (B) at RT to (A) at 80C with good agitation. 4) When the temperature of (AB) drops to 75C, add (C) with moderate stirring. 5) When (ABC) is uniform, add (D) to (ABC) and homogenize for a few minutes (until temperature drops to 65C). 6 ) Return to propeller stirring and continue stirring until temperature drops to 45C. At this point add (E) and any water lost due to evaporation. Switch to sweep type agitation and stir to room temperature. Formula CP1207 Water-in-Oil Make-uv Inaredients: Wt% A) Arlacel P135, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.00 Arlamol 57, Cyclomethicone (and) PPG-15 Stearyl Ether 6.00 Arlamol HD, Isohexadecane 12.00 B) Atlas G-2330, Sorbeth-30 4.00 MgS04-7H20, Magnesium Sulfate 0.70 Water 60.65 C) Ultrafine Titanium Dioxide, Titanium Dioxide 12.00 2.00 Yellow Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide Black Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide 0.25 Red Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide 0.40 D) Preservative, Quaternium-15 Q.S. Preparation Method: 1) Heat and stir (A) to 75C. 2) Heat and stir (B) to 85C. 3 ) Blend (C) well at room temperature. 4) Slowly add (B) to (A) with good agitation. 5 ) After (A) & (B) are mixed begin adding (C) at room temperature to (AB) using propeller agitation. 6) Homogenize (ABC) for a few minutes and then switch back to sweep type agitation and stir to room temperature. Add (D) to (ABC) at any temperature below 50C. Formula CP1208 SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations

Beauty Aids

L i q u i d Foundation w i t h Extender W I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water H y d r o x y l a t e d L e c i t h i n / A l c o l e c 2-3 Phase B : M i c a ( a n d ) T i t a n i um D i o x i d e / E x t e n d e r W M i ca/Mi c a MRP M i c a ( a n d ) Red I r o n O x i d e / T r a n s p a r e n t Red M i c a ( a n d ) Iron O x i d e s / T r a n s p a r e n t Y e l l o w Ochre M i c a ( a n d ) B l a c k Iron O x i d e / T r a n s p a r e n t B l a c k Phase C : Propylene Glycol Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e / V e e g u m Phase D : P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l C e l l u l o s e Gum/CMC 7H3SF Phase E : Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% Phase F : S u c r o s e C o c o a t e / C r o d e s t a SL40 M e t h y l Paraben D i s o d i um EDTA Phase G: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e D i c a p r a t e / E d e n o l 302 I s o s t e a r y l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e / H e t e s t e r ISS S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e / A r l a c e l 20 C e t y l A1 coho1 Stearic Acid Oleic Acid BHA P r o p y l Paraben Phase H : DMDM H y d a n t o i n 55%/Glydant D e i o n i zed Water

48.92 0.10 4.84 4.61 2.40 1.90 0.25 4.00 1 .oo 4.00 0.15

5.00 1.oo

.so

1 0.20

0.05 10.00 2.00 2.50 1.25 1 .50 0.50 0.05 0.10

0.18 2.00

Procedure: Water Phase: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. Add Phase B, h o m o g e n i z i n g u n t i l no u n d i s p e r s e d p i g m e n t r e m a i n s . Combine and add Phase C . Homogenize and h e a t t o 9OC for 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 75C. Combine and add Phase D and Phase E , m a i n t a i n i n g homogeni z e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i 1 no u n d i s p e r s e d p a r t i c l e s r e m a i n . Add Phase F . O i l Phase: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase G s e p a r a t e l y f r o m t h e w a t e r phase. Heat t o 75-8OC w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l homogeneous. E m u l s i f i c a t i o n : Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase w i t h homogenizer a g i t a t i o n . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e and h o m o g e n i z a t i o n f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 45C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Combine and add Phase H . Cool t o 30C.

SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c , : F o r m u l a EM3-39-1

87

88

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

L i q u i d F o u n d a t i o n w i t h Low L u s t r e Piament C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : D e i o n i z e d Water H y d r o x y l a t e d L e c i t h i n / A l c o l e c 2-3 Phase B : Low L u s t r e P i gment/Rona Phase C : P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Magnesi um A 1 umi num S i 1 icate/Veegum Phase D : P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l C e l l u l o s e Gum/CMC 7H3SF Phase E : Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 9 9% Phase F : S u c r o s e Cocoate C r o d e s t a SL40 M e t h y l Paraben D i s o d i urn EDTA Phase G : P r o o v l e n e G l v c o D i c a p r y l a t e D i c a p r a t e / E d e n o l 302 Isostearyl Stearoyl Stearate/Hetester I S S S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e / A r l a c e l 20 C e t y l A 1 coho1 Stearic Acid Oleic Acid BHA P r o p y l Paraben Phase H : DMOM H y d a n t o i n 5 5 % / G l y d a n t D e i o n i z e d Water

IN

W

O

52.92 0.10

10.00 4.00 1.oo 4.00 0.15 5-00 1.oo 1.50 0.20 0.05

10.00 2,OO 2.50 1.25 1 .50 0.50 0.05 0.10 0.18 2.00

Procedure: Water Phase: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. Add Phase B , h o m o g e n i z i n g u n t i l no u n d i s p e r s e d p i g m e n t r e m a i n s . Combine and add Phase C . Homogenize and h e a t t o 9OC f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 75C. Combine and add Phase D and Phase E , m a i n t a i n i n g homogenizer a g i t a t i o n u n t i l no u n d i s p e r s e d p a r t i c l e s r e m a i n . Add Phase F . O i l Phase: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase G s e p a r a t e l y f r o m t h e w a t e r phase. Heat t o 75-8OC w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l homogeneous. E m u l s i f i c a t i o n : Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase w i t h homogenizer a g i t a t i o n . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e and h o m o g e n i z a t i o n f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 45C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Combine and add Phase H . Cool t o 30C.

SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.: F o r m u l a EM3-21-4

Beauty Aids

L i q u i d Makeup F o r m u l a t i o n - 2 Ingredients. MAS T y p e I A D e i o n i z e d Water Triethanolamine G1 y c e r e t h - 2 6 P i gment B1 e n d Isopropyl Isostearate Mineral O i l (and) L a n o l i n Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate Isopropyl Myri s t a t e H y d r o g e n a t e d Soy G l y c e r i d e Stearic Acid D i o c t y l A d i p a t e (and) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (and) O c t y l Palmi t a t e Cocoyl S a r c o s i ne L i t h i um S t e a r a t e Preservative B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y @ 12 rpm A f t e r A g i n g 1 Day, 2000 1300 A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks. 1 2 0 0 Y i e l d Value,

Dynes/Sq.

Cm.

Wt% 1.oo 53.00 0.75 10.50 5.29 9.06 6.50 4.00 2.50 2.10 1 .60

cps'

90

F o r m u l a pH: 6 1 A f t e r A g i n g 1 Day 6 2 A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks. 6 2 S t a b i l i t y Observations: A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week @ Room Temp A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ Room Temp

OK OK

A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week (a 6C O K A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ 6'2. OK A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week @ 3 8 C . OK OK A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ 38C A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week @ 50C. O K A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ 5 0 C . S e p a r a t i o n

SOURCE:

R.T.

Vanderbilt Co.,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

2.10 1.oo 0.10 0.50

89

90

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lona L a s t i n a L i p s t i c k Wt% Go mpo n e nt: 13.0 I.M y r i t o l 318 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 6.0 M y r i t o l PC P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e D i c p r t e U i t r a L a n t r o l HP 2074 L a n o l i n O i l 2.5 IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 12.0 C a n d e l i l l a Cera 6.5 L u n a c e r a M M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 2.5 Carnauba Cera 1.o Cera A l b a 4.0 Lanol i n 7.0 1. o A n t a r o n WP 6 6 0 G e n e r o l 122N Soybean S t e r o l 3.5 0.05 C o n t r o x KS T i t a n i urn D i o x i d e 0.5 19.95 R i c i nus communi s C a s t o r o i 1 n . 8 . /q.s . Color pigments 1 I . H v d a a e n CMF C h i t o s a n G l y c o l a t e 10.0 I . M e l t - t h e components l i s t e d u n d e r I a t 80-85C and s t i r u n t i 1 t h e p i g m e n t s a r e c o m p l e t e l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . Homogenise once w i t h a t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and h e a t up a g a i n t o 80-85C. 2 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase I 1 one a f t e r t h e o t h e r and s t i r f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t 8OC. Pass m i x t u r e t w i c e more t h r o u g h t h e t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and m e l t a g a i n a t a p p r o x . 8OC. 3 . F o r a p e a r l - s h i n e l i p s t i c k add t h e p e a r l i s e r and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Cast w i t h s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e m o u l d s . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o a p p r o x . 30C and keep i n t h e r e f r i g e r a t o r o v e r n i g h t . F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 94/056/151 _ Care __ Ld _s _ tick . Component: Wt% I . M y r i t o l 318 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 14.0 6.5 M y r i t o l PC P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e D i c a p r a t e U l t r a L a n t r o l HP 2074 L a n o l i n O i l 2.7 I P P Isopropyl Palmitate 13.0 7.0 Candel i 11a Cera 2.7 L u n a c e r a M M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax Carnauba Cera 1 .o Cera A l b a 4.3 Lanol i n 7.5 Monomuls 60-35C H y d r o g e n a t e d Palm G l y c e r i d e s 3.7 0.05 C o n t r o x KS Homobi t e c L5 T i t a n i um d i o x i d e 5.4 R i c i nus communi s C a s t o r o i 1 22.15 1 I . H y d a g e n CMF C h i t o s a n G l y c o l a t e 10.0 1 . M e l t t h e components l i s t e d u n d e r I a t 80-85C and s t i r u n t i l t h e p i g m e n t s a r e c o m p l e t e l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . Homogenise once w i t h a t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and h e a t up a g a i n t o 80-85C. 2 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase I 1 one a f t e r t h e o t h e r and s t i r f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t 8OC. Pass m i x t u r e t w i c e more t h r o u g h t h e t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and m e l t a g a i n a t a p p r o x . 8OC. 3 . F o r a p e a r l - s h i n e l i p s t i c k add t h e p e a r l i s e r and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Cast w i t h s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e m o u l d s . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o a p p r o x . 30C and keep i n t h e refrigerator overnight. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 94/056/146 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

91

L u x u r i o u s Makeup (W/O) Inqredients: A:

. W-t.%

1.2 37.9

Veegum Water Magnesium S u l f a t e

0.4 5.5

8: T a l c Kaol i n Titanium Dioxide I r o n Oxides C:

1.5 5.0 3.0 15.0 8.0 8.0 7.0 5.0 1.5

Mineral O i l Light Polysynlane R i tachol Lanapene 70% S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n W i t c a m i de 5 1 1 Preservatives

9,s.

Procedure: Add t h e Veegum t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y u n t i l smooth ( f o r d e t a i l e d p r e p a r a t i o n recommendations, see Veeaum s m o o t h ) . G r i n d B and add t o A , m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add-A and B t o C and m i x u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Packing: T h i s f o r m u l a i s a f l u i d l o t on s u i t a b l e f o r d i s p e n s i n g f r o m a s t a n d a r d l i q u i d makeup b o t t l e . Comment s : T h i s f o r m u l a c o n s t i t u t e s an e c o n o m i c a l , c o l d p r o c e s s W / O e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i z e d b y t h e use o f Veegum. I t i s an e l e g a n t m o i s t u r i z i n g makeup f o r d r y s k i n . Veegum s e r v e s t o n o t o n l y s t a b i l i z e t h e e m u l s i o n and h e l p c o n t r o l v i s c o s i t y , b u t a l s o t o i n s u r e u n i f o r m c o l o r t h r o u g h o u t t h e p r o d u c t w i t h no c o l o r s t r e a k i n g o r s e t t l i n g . By f o r m u l a t i n g t h e p i g m e n t s i n t o t h e i n t e r n a l phase, where t h e y a r e suspended by t h e Veegum, t h e s t a b i l i t y o f t h e e m u l s i o n i t s e l f i n s u r e s t h a t no p i g m e n t s e t t l i n g can o c c u r . The makeup s p r e a d s s m o o t h l y w i t h a r i c h , n o n - g r e a s y f e e l , l e a v i n g a u n i f o r m pigment f i l m p l u s t h e e f f e c t i v e e m o l l i e n t s and m o i s t u r i z e r s o f t h e e x t e r n a l p h a s e . T h i s f o r m u l a w o u l d b e a s u i t a b l e base f o r a l i n e o f l u x u r i o u s makeups f o r t h e m a t u r e woman w i t h d r y s k i n p r o b l e m s . The CTFA a d o p t e d name f o r Veegum is magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1ic a t e . SOURCE: P o l y e s t e r C o r p . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

92

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Ma k e u e p ___ emover (Wash o f f t y p e )

Wt%

__.__ Raw M a t e r i a l s : A c y l g l u t a m a t e CT-12

20.0

2-Alkyl-N-Carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethyl Imidazolidinium Betaine Coconut f a t t y a c i d d i e t h a n o l a m i d e G1 y c e r i n A j i d e w N-50 L a u r y l monophosphoric a c i d T r i e t h a n o l ami n e Ethylene glycol d i stearate Citric acid P y r o t e r CPI-40 P y r o t e r CPI-60 Methylparaben Perfume Water

28.0 5.0 1.8 1.o 2.0 1.o 2.0 1.2 1.5 1.5

0.2 0.2 balance

Procedure: D i s s o l v e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and g l y c e r i n i n w a t e r and h e a t u p t o 60C, t h e n a d d l a u r y l m o n o p h o s p h o r i c a c i d g r a d u a l l y . Add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s a n d d i s s o l v e a t 70C. C o o l down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h s t i rri ng. pH: 5 . 2 V i s c o s i t y : 2600 c p s F o r m u l a MRW-08 Makeup Remover (wash o f f t y p e )

__Wt%

Raw M a t e r i a l s : A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 Water Methyl paraben

A-r

4.0

23.8 0.2

B: M i n e r a l o i l G l y c e r y l monostearate S . E . B u t y l paraben

70.4 1.5

0.1

Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) b y h e a t i n g a t 80-85C a n d c o o l down t o 30C q u i c k l y . M i x ( 8 ) a t 25C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add (5) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h h o m o g e n i z i n g . C o o l down t o 1OC w i t h s t i r r i n g . F o r m u l a MRE-06

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

Make-up Remover ( L i q u i d Crystal Gel ) MRJ-R1 c o n t a i n s much o i l and w a t e r . As MRJ-R1 uses g e n t l e a n i o n i c s u r f a c t a n t , we f e e l v e r y r e f r e s h e d a f t e r washing o u r s k i n . Raw M a t e r i a l s : A m i s o f t CT-12s A m i s o f t CK-11 NaC1 Water Preservative

A:

Wt%

(30%)

21.6 2.9 1.4 qs

qs

8 : PEG-I0 G l y c e r y l T r i s o s t e a r a t e (Emalex GWIS-310) PEG-20 G l y c e r y l T r i s o s t e a r a t e (Emalex GWIS-320) Mineral O i l (Silko P 5 5 ) ( v i s c o s i t y 29 C P S ) O c t y l dodecanol Preservative Fragrance

5.8 23.0 26.9 3.8

qs qs

1 . Heat A t o 50-60C a d s t i r up u n t i l i t c o m p l e t e l y becomes uniform. 2 . Heat B t o 50-60C and s t i r up u n t i l i t c o m p l e t e l y becomes uniform. 3 . Add A s l o w l y t o B and s t i r u p . 4 . S t a r t vacuuming ( 7 0 0 mm Hg) and c o o l i n g down t o 30C. F o r m u l a N o . MRJ-R3

Make

UP

Remover

Raw Materials:. A : A c y l g l u t a r n a t e HS-21 Isosteari c acid B: Mineral o i l Emalex GWIS-320 Emalex GWIS-330

Wt% 2.2 6. 7 77.7 6.7 6.7

Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) and ( B ) a t 80C. Add ( A ) t o ( B ) w i t h s t i r r i n g Cool down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a No. MRJ-07

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U , S . A , , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

93

94

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Mascara T h i s mascara e y e l a s h makeup cream a p p l i e s b e a u t i f u l l y f r o m an a u t o m a t i c mascara u n i t c o n t a i n i n g a b r u s h f o r a p p l i c a t i o n . The u r e t h a n e p o l y m e r ( A v a l u r e UR 450 p o l y m e r ) c o n t r i b u t e s b u l k and adherence t o t h e eye1 ashes a1 1owi ng f o r a 1ong-1 a s t i ng plump l o o k . I t a l s o e l i m i n a t e s t h e need f o r any o f t h e o t h e r gums s u c h as gum a r a b i c i n t h e p r o d u c t . L n S r e d i . e n t i l r ade--Narne~ WAS/, Part A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 59.50 2 . M e t h y l p a r a b e n NF 0.10 3 . H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e / M e t h o c e l 40-202 0.20 2.80 4. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ( 9 9 % ) 5 . DL-Panthenol USP 0.50 6 . U r e t h a n e P o l y m e r / A v a l u r e UR 450 Polymer 6.00 7 . PVP-K3O 2.00 Part 8 : 8 . I r o n Oxides/C33-7734 Cosmetic B l a c k 2.00 Part C: 9 . S t e a r i c A c i d / E m e r s o l 132 5.50 10.Baybet-ry Wax 1.80 1 1 . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e / P r o t a c h e m GMS-450 1.70 12.Beeswax, W h i t e 4.50 2.70 13.Carnauba Wax, P r i m e # I Y e l l o w , R e f i n e d F l a k e s 14.WW Gum R o s i n 1.80 1 5 . P r o p y l p a r a b e n NF 0.10 Part D: 1 6 . S i m e t h i cone/Mi r a s i 1 SM 0.10 17.Wheat Germ O i l / L i p o v o l WGO 0.10 1 8 . Phenoni p 0.10 0.50 19.Germaben I 1 Preparation Procedure: Part A : 1 . Add t h e d e i o n i z e d w a t e r t o a s u i t a b l e k e t t l e and b e g i n h e a t i n g t h e w a t e r t o 40C. Add t h e m e t h y l p a r a b e n and m i x u n t i l d i s solved. 2 . T u r n t h e h e a t o f f and add t h e M e t h o c e l . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m l y d i s p e r s e d and u n t 1 no lumps a p p e a r . 3 . Add t h e t r i e t h a n o amine and m i x u n t i l t h e gum i s h y d r a t e d and clear. 4. Add t h e P a n t h e n o l and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 5 . Add t h e A v a l u r e UR 450 p o l y m e r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l t h e mixture i s uniform. 6 . Add t h e PVP powder and mix u n t i l a l l o f t h e powder i s i n s o l u t i o n and P a r t A i s u n i f o r m . M a i n t a i n t h e t e m p e r a t u r e b u t r a i s e i t t o 75C j u s t b e f o r e c o m b i n i n g w i t h P a r t s B & C . P a r t 8 & C: 7 . Mix a l l o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C ( o i l phase) i n a s u i t a b l e k e t t l e and m e l t t o 75C. 8 . When a l l o f P a r t C has been m e l t e d , add t h e p i g m e n t o f P a r t B t o i t and m i x u n t i l t h e p i g m e n t i s c o m p l e t e l y w e t t e d / u n i f o r m . 9 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and b e g i n c o o l i n g and a t 50C add S i m e t h i c o n e , Wheat Germ O i l and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g t o R T . SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h S p e c i a l t y C h e m i c a l s : F o r m u l a t i o n A0002

Beauty Aids

95

M o i s t u r i z i n q M i l k Creme w i t h M o n a s i l PCA T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s a h i g h d e g r e e o f s u b s t a n t i v i t y and c o n d i t i o n i n g . I t helps t o minimize o r a l l e v i a t e dry s k i n condit i o n s w h i l e l e a v i n g a smooth n o n - g r e a s y a f t e r - f e e l . Part: A A

A A A

B B

B B

Raw M a t e r i a l : Monalac MPL Monaquat SL-5 Water P o t a s s i urn H y d r o x i d e (45%) M o n a s i l PCA Monafax MAP 1 6 0 Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e

3.0 5.0 57.7 0.2 4.0

0.5 20.0 5.1

2.0

Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and h e a t t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and c o n t i n u e t o homogenize. S t i r - c o o l , w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n , t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 t h e n f i l l . Appearance: H i g h m o i s t u r i z i n g m i 1 k y creme F o r m u l a t i o n F-717 Pump D i s o e n s i b l e L u x u r i o u s Body M o i s t u r i z e r

__ Part: A

A A A A

Raw M a t e r i a l : Dei o n i zed Water Monalac MPL Monalac MO Monaquat SL-5 Glycerin

W 2 71 . 3 4.0 5.0 3.0 4.0

B

Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol 01 e y l A1 coho1

6.0 4.0 2.0

C C

Fragrance Preservative

0.2 0.5

€3

B

Procedure: Heat b o t h p a r t s (A and B ) s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Add P a r t 6 t o P a r t A and homogenize w e l l a t 70-75C. S t i r c o o l w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n t o 40-45C and add f r a g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e , e t c . A d j u s t t h e pH t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 t h e n f i l l . Odor and Appearance: P l e a s a n t l y s c e n t e d , pump d i s p e n s i b l e , m i 1 ky creme/l o t ion F o r m u l a t i o n F-730

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

96

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizinq Milk Creme Lotion F-712 with Silicone PLN and Hiqh Fracrrance Level Part: A A A A A

Raw Material: Monalac MPL Monaquat SL-5 Water Potassium Hydroxide (45%) Monasil PLN

Wt% 5.0 5.0 55.7 0.2 4.0

B B

Monafax MAP 160 Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate

0.5 20.0 5.1 2.0

C C

Fragrance Preservative

B

B

2.0

0.5

Procedure: Combine ingredients in both phases separately and heat to 75C. Add (B) to (A) and continue to homogenize. Stir-cool, with minimal aeration, to 40C, add fragrance, color and preservative. Adjust pH to 6.0 then fill. Physical Properties: Appearance: Flowable high moisturizing milky lotion Formulation F-712 Flowable Moisturizinq Milk Creme F-713 with High Fraqrance Level Part: A A A A

Wt%

Raw Material Monalac MPL Monaquat SL-5 Water Potassium Hydroxide (45%)

5.0 5.0 59.7

B B B

Monafax MAP 160 Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate

0.5 20.0 5.1 2.0

C C

Fragrance Preservative

B

0.2

2.0 0.5

Procedure: Combine ingredients in both phases separately and heat to 75C. Add (B) to (A) and continue to homogenize. Stir-cool, with minimal aeration, to 40C, add fragrance, color and preservative. Adjust pH to 6.0 then fill. Physical Properties: Appearance: High moisturizing flowable milky creme. Formulation F-713

SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Beauty Aids

N o n i o n i c L i q u i d Makeup Wt% 0.75 0.15 67.10 4.00 0.30

IE g r ed.1 e n t s : A ' Veegum Keltrol Water Glycerin C i t r i c acid 8: Talc Titanium dioxide I r o n oxides

5.00

C:

5.00 2.50 2.00

5.00 3.70

Ritachol C r o d a m o l MM Polysynlane Oleyl alcohol Cosmowax Tween 8 5

2.00 2.00 0.05

Preservative

9,s.

Procedure: Add t h e d r y b l e n d o f Veegum a n d K e l t r o l t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y w i t h t h e h i g h e s t shear a v a i l a b l e u n t i l s m o o t h . Add t h e g l y c e r i n and c i t r i c a c i d and m i x u n t i l s m o o t h . M i x B ( g r i n d i f n e c e s s a r y ) u n t i l homogeneous. Add B a n d A a n d m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . H e a t A a n d B t o 6 0 - 6 5 C . H e a t C t o 60-65C. Add C t o A a n d B a n d m i x u n t i l c o o l .

Moisturizing Skin Milk n gredl en t_.s Polysynlane I ,P.M L a n o l i n Wax Stearic Acid Cetanol G l y c e r y l Mono S t e a r a t e PEG-200 Mono S t e a r a t e S o l u l a n 16 Triethanolamine Propylene Glycol Perfume & P r e s e r v a t i v e s Water

SOURCE:

P o l y e s t e r Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

w t Yo 6.0 4.0 1.o 2.5

0.5 1.o 1.5 1.o 0.3 6.0

ad.

q.s. 100.0

97

98

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil-in-Water

Hydro-Gel

f o r S e n s i t i v e S k i n (Paqe 1 )

The f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a t i o n i l l u s t r a t e s t h e o u t s t a n d i n g v e r s a t i l i t y o f A r l a t o n e 2121 compared w i t h c l a s s i c HLB-type e m u l s i f i e r s . Two d i f f e r e n t f o r m u l a t i o n s a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r t o o b t a i n an end f o r m u l a t i o n w i t h o u t s t a n d i n g l i g h t n e s s , smoothness and s t a b i l i t y . T h i s t y p e o f f o r m u l a t i o n , w i t h a l o w o i l phase and an e x t e n d e d amount o f bound m o i s t u r e , f i t s v e r y w e l l i n t h i s new c o n c e p t o f " g e l - c r e a m s " . O i 1-in-Water Hydro-Gel

f o r Sensitive Skin

ytv 50.0 50 0

Inqredients: A O i l - i n - w a t e r m o i s t u r i s i n g m i l k F41-5-16A B H y d r a t i n g g e l F41-5-168

I

Manufacture: M i x b o t h f o r m u l a t i o n s a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 16,692 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e D, 6 rpm) Energy i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-16 The s e p a r a t e components a r e : H y d r a t i na Gel

Inqredien-;

wto/, 89.3 0.4

A Water Alpantha

10.0 9.s

B A t l a s G-2330 Preservative

0.3

C C a r b o p o l ETD 2001* D NaOH (30% s o l u t i o n )

to pH 6 . 5 - 7

Manufacture: 1 . M i x A a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . 2 . Add B w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . 3 . S l o w l y add C and s t i r u n t i l a homogeneous s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d 4. N e u t r a l i s e product by adding D . Comments : V i s c o s i t y : 42,120 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e C , * C a r b o p o l ETD 2001 (Carbomer, INC1)-BF G o o d r i c h F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-166

SOURCE: I C I A m e r i c a s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

6 rpm)

Beauty Aids

Oi

1-in-Water

Hydro-Gel

f o r S e n s i t i v e S k i n p a g e 2)

O i 1 -in - w a t e r .Moi s t u r i z i n g M i 1 k Innredients: M812 F i n s o l v TN* E u t a n c l G* Laurex CS* Lanolin alcohol Jojoba o i l

A Arlamol

B A r l a t o n e 2121 8utylene glycol Preservative Water

Wt% 2.0 4.0 2.0 1.5 1. o 0.5

~

2.0 3.0 q.s 78.8

C Keltrolx

0.2

D Ethanol

5.0

Manufacture: 1 . Disperse K e l t r o l i n c o l d water w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . 2 . H e a t o i l p h a s e t o 75C. 3 . Heat w a t e r p h a se t o 85C. 4 . S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase w h i l s t s t i r r i n g in t e n s i v e l y . 5 . H o m o g e n i s e t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r o n e m i n u t e . 6. Allow t o cool w h i l s t s t i r r i n g moderately. 7 . Add e t h a n o l b e l o w 40C. 8 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Comments : V i s c o s i t y : 3 , 1 2 0 rnPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T , s p i n d l e B, 6 r p m ) E n e r g y i n p u t i s r e l a t e d to f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . * F i n s o l v TN ( C 1 2 - C l 5 A l k y l B e n z o a t e , I N C 1 ) - F i n e t e x E u t a n o l G ( O c t y l d o d e c a n o l , INC1)-Henkel L a u r e x CS ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l , I N C 1 ) - A l b r i g h t & W i l s o n K e l t r o l ( X a n t h a n Gum, I N C I f - K e l c o SOURCE:

I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u l a F41-5-16A

99

700

Cosmetic and Toiletty Formulations

__-_______---~ O i 1-in - W a t e r Mi 1k w i t h " N a t u r a l " L r e s e r v a t i - B wto/, 3.0 3.0 5.0 2.0 5.0 q.s.

Ingredients: A A r l a m o l HD Arlamol E Avocado o i l Wheat germ o i l * Sunflower o i 1 Anti -oxidant

B C a r b o p o l 5984* (3% s o l u t i o n ) R h o d o p o l SC* G1 y c e r o l A r l a t o n e 2121 Demi n e r a l i s e d w a t e r Propylene g l y c o l

C NaOH ( 3 0 % )

5.0 0.15 3.0 3.5 53.35 2.0 t o pH 6 - 6 . 5

D Ethanol

15.0

Ma1i u f a c t u r e : 1 . M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t h e h e a t e d w a t e r p h a s e a t 80C u n d e r m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s formed. 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e h e a t e d aqueous phase a t 75C w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . 3 . Add t h e h e a t e d o i l p h a s e t o t h e a q u e o u s p h a s e u n d e r i n t e n s i v e s t i r r ing. 4 . Homogense t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r one m i n u t e . 5 . Add p h a s e D a t +-50C a n d c o n t r o l p H . 6 . C o o l t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . 7 . Add h e a t - s e n s i t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 1 2 , 4 0 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e E , 6 r p m ) Energy i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . E t h a n o l i s i n c o r p o r a t e d as " n a t u r a l " p r e s e r v a t i v e . *Wheat g e r m o i 1 - S i n e r g a C a r b o p o l 5984 (Carbomer, INC1)-BF G o o d r i c h R h o d o p o l SC ( X a n t h a n Gum, I N C 1 ) - R h o n e P o u l e n c

SOURCE:

ICI

Surfactants:

F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-11

Beauty Aids

01 1 - I

n-Water

M o l s - t g r i s i ng M i 1 k

LMLKuQ.. A Avlarol HD P a r a f f i n o i l perliquldua* Almond o i l Avocado o i l V i t a a i n E acetate* Anti-oridant

2.0 2.0 2.0 i . 0 q.5.

3.0 2.5 q.r. 70.0

8 Arlatone 2121 Propylene g l y c o l Prescrvattva Water C Carbopol 934,

(2% w/w

D NaOH (10%

in s o l u t i o n )

WW ;

101

7.5

d.i.)

t o pH 0 . 5

M8nutacturo: 1. M i x the Arlatone 2121 i n t h o hertcd water phase a t 8OC under moderate s t l r r i n y u n t i l I hmgenctous dlspersion i s foraed. 2. Dlsporso the hydrocollold iii tho he.tad aqueous phase a t 75C w l t h aoderate s t i r r i n g . 3. Add the heated o i l phase t o t h e rquctour phase under Intenelve stlrriny. 4. ~ n o g e n i s ethe mixture I n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C for one minute. 5 . Add phase 0 a t -GOC and c o n t r o l pH. 0 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g aoderately. 7. Add heat-sensitive ingredients w h i l s t s t i r r i n g aoderately. Comaont : Viscosity; 14,070 nPa s ( B r u u k f i a l d LVT, spindle 0, 6 rpm) Enrryy input i s r r l a t e c i t o fin+: formulation v i s c o s i t y . * P a r a f f i n o i l p e r l i g u i d u r (Mineral O i l , IlUC1)-Werck VStamin E acetate (Tocopheryl Acetatc, INC1)-Roche Carbopol 934 (Carbonmr 934, INC1)-BF b o d r i c h

SOURCE: I C I Surfactant,.

Formulbtlon F41-6-0

102

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Powder Eyeshadow

wt%

I N C I Name/Trade N m Phase A : I t a l i a n Talc/Supra Talc B i s m u t h O x y c h l o r i d e / B i r o n LF-. z o o 0 Calcium S i l i c a t e / M i c r o c e l E N y l o n - l Z / O r g a s o l 2 0 0 2 UD N a t c o s Manganese V i o l e t 43001 U l t r a m a r i n e B l u e 43W1810 B l a c k I r o n O x i d e C33-5198 M i c a M-RP M a g n e s i um M y r i s t a t e M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben

9.70 20.00 1.oo 5.00 15.00 15.00 2.00 15.00 9.00 0.20 0.10

Phase 8 : O c t y l d o d e c y l S t e a r o y l Stearate/Ceraphyl 847 6.95 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 D i is o s t e a r a t e / E m e r e s t 2 4 5 2 0.50 C e t y l Palmi t a t e 0.50 T o c o p h e r o l ( a n d ) A s c o r b y l P a l m i t a t e / O x y n e x LM 0.05 Procedure: Combine t h e p i g m e n t s and f i l l e r s w i t h t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . P u l v e r i z e u s i n g a hammer m i l l t w i c e t h r o u g h a n 0 . 0 2 7 ' ' s c r e e n . Combine t h e o i l p h a s e . H e a t t o 70C u n t i l homogeneous. S p r a y o n t o batch whi l e agitating. Formula P4-25-1

Eye Shadow _.__ INCI NaW

T r a d e Name: Phase A : T a l c 141 Lithium Stearate K a o l i n 2457 C a l c i um S i 1 i c a t e / M i c r o c e l E Bismuth Oxychloride (and) Carmine/Bicrona B i s m u t h O x y c h l o r i d e / B i r o n 6-50 M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben ~

Carmine

Phase B : M i c a ( a n d ) I r o n O x i d e / C o l o r o n a P a s s i o n Orange

19.10 2.50 5.00 0.50 2.60 2.00 0.20 0.10 55.00

Phase C : M i n e r a l O i 1 ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l / A m e r c h o l L-101 11 . o o L a n o l in A 1 c o h o 1 / S u p e r H a r t o l a n 1.oo White Petrolatum 1.oo Procedure: Combine Phase A . P u l v e r i z e w i t h a hammer m i l l , p a s s i n g t w i c e t h r o u g h a 0 . 0 2 7 " h e r r i n g b o n e s c r e e n . Add P h a s e B w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Combine Phase C . H e a t t o 70C. S p r a y o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g b u l k . Pass e n t i r e b a t c h t h r o u g h a jump g a p . F o r m u l a P3-79-3 SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . ; S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

103

P r e s s e d Powder ia Lz: T a l c Supra A Nylon-12 Lecithin treated sericite L e c i t h i n t r e a t e d mica Amihope L L Zinc stearate Isopropyl lanolate Hydroxylated l a n o l i n Isopropyl isostearate E l d e w CL-307 Butyl stearate Germall I1 Methylparaben Propylparaben C o s m e t i c brown 3277 C o s m e t i c Brown 1 9 8 5 C o s m e t i c brown 1654 O&C r e d 3 0 l a k e F o r m u l a PP-EL01

Ra_w_Y3t-e-r

wt

QJO

53.54 10.00 10.00 10.00 5.00 3.00 2 , 70 1 .50 1.20 1 .oo 0.60 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.34 0.32 0.18 0.02

P r e s s e d Powder Raw M a t e r i a1 s : T a l c Supra A Nylon-12 Lecithin treeated s e r i c i t e L e c i t h i n t r e a t e d mica Amihope LL 21 n c s t e a r a t e Isopropyl lanolate Hydroxylated l a n o l i n Isopropyl isostearate E l d e w CL-301 Butyl stearate Germall I 1 Methylparaben Propylparaben C o s m e t i c brown 3277 C o s m e t i c brown 1985 Cosmetic brown 1654 O&C r e d 3 0 l a k e F o r m u l a PP-EL03 SOURCE: AJlnOmOtO U , S . A . ,

Wt% 52.49 9.80 9.80 9.80 4.90 2.94 2.65 1.47 1.18 2.95 0.59 0.29 0.20 0.10 0.33 0.31 0.18 0.02

Inc.:

E l d e w CL-301 A p p l i c a t i o n s

104

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

P r e s s e d Powder __

yt./,

Raw M a_ t e_ r i a~ l s_ : . T a l c Supra A Nylon-12 Lecithin treated sericite L e c i t h i n t r e a t e d mica Amihope LL Zinc stearate Isopropyl lanolate Hydroxylated l a n o l i n Isopropyl isostearate E l d e w CL-301 Butyl stearate Germall I 1 Methyl paraben Propyl paraben C o s m e t i c b r o w n 3277 C o s m e t i c brown 1985 C o s m e t i c brown 1654 O & C r e d 30 l a k e F o r m u l a PP-EL01

Raw M a t e r i a l s : A: Castor o i l C a n d e l i 1 1 a wax Carnauba war Ozokeri te Capryl i c / c a p r i c

53.54 10.00 10.00 10.00 5.00 3.00 2.70 1.50 1.20 I. o o 0.60 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.34 0.32 0.18 0.02

Wt%

60.0 4.8 2.0 4.0 15.0

triglyceride

7.4 2.2 3.0 1.6

B: M i c a Ye1 l o w i r o n o x i d e D & C Red # 7 A m i h o p e LL

Procedure: M i x ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 80C. M i x (6) i n g r e d i e n t s i n a t u r b o m i x e r u n t i l a f i n e & homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s o b t a i n e d . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m , t h e n p o u r i n t o m o l d s . F o r m u l a LP-203B

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A , ,

Inc.:

Amihope LL A p p l i c a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

105

. . e u ~ ~_n_g..C_1ay_.Eace__M_ask l l ~ F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and Advantages: T h i s p r o d u c t removes imbedded i m p u r i t i e s w h i c h smooths s k i n , c l e a n s p o r e s , b r i n g s a g l o w and removes d u l l i n g c e l l s f o r a f i n e r t e x t u r e so s k i n has a r a d i a n t g l o w . Wt%

Raw M a t e r i a1 s : Phase A : 1 0 2 M a g n a b r i t e HV Xanthan G u m Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) Glycerin A l o e Vera Gel P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Tween 60 M e t h y l Paraben

4.5 0.2 63.2 4.0

0.5 1.5 0.6 0.5

Phase 8 : E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF Cetylstearyl Alcohol K e s t e r War K-48 P r o p y l Paraben

5.0 0.5 2.0 0.5

Phase C. C e r a B e l l i n a ( P y - 3 Beeswax) G r e e n C h r o m i um 0 x 1 d e Titanium Dioxide

4.5 0.5 2.0

Phase D . Titanium Dioxide 6 7 0 B e n t o n i t e NFBC

4.0 6.0

Procedure: H e a t a n d m i x t i l l homogeneous, Phase A t o 8 O C . H e a t and m i x Phase B t o 8 O C . H e a t a n d m i x Phase C t i l l p i g m e n t s a r e d i s p e r s e d . M i x Phase B w i t h Phase C , a d d BC t o A a t 8OC u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When e m u l s i f i e d , s p r j n k l e a m i x e d P h a s e D i n t o t h e AB&C p h a s e and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g t i l l t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d , a l l o w t o c o o l w h i l e m i x i n g . P o u r a t 55-6OC. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a a n d i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Changes i n c l a y c o n c e n t r a t i o n w i l l r e d u c e o r i n c r e a s e d r y i n g t i m e on t h e s k i n , w h i c h a l s o c h a n g e s t h e r e s p e c t i v e p u r i f y i n g q u a l i t i e s toward t h e s k i n . M o i s t u r i z i n g agents and/or o t h e r a c t i v e s c a n be added t o enhance t h e p r o p e r t i e s o f t h i s p r o d u c t .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

706

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

R e j u v e n a t i n g S k i n Gel (Aqueous)

I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : A1 1 a n t o i n/Rona S o r b i t o l / H y s t a r CG

0.20 5.00 0.17 qs t o 100.00

Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate Water,

demi n e r a l ized

Phase B : Carbomer/Carbopol 940 demineralized Water

1.20 38 8 0

Phase C : T r ome hami n e / T r i s Amino demi n e r a l ized Water

1.80 13.20

Phase D : L e c i t h i n , D i p a l m t o y 1 H y d r o x y p r o l i n e , PhenoxyWater T a l l O i 1 S t e r 1 , L i n o l e i c A c i d , Tocooherol. e t h a 01 Sodi um A s c o r b a t e , M e t h y l p a r a b e n , B u t y l p a r a b e n ' , E t h y l paraben, Propylparaben, Mannitol/ASC I I I / R o n a I

-

4.00

Procedure: D i s s o l v e Phase A . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 940 i n t h e w a t e r o f Phase B and homogenize. D i s s o l v e t h e Tromethamine i n t h e w a t e r o f Phase C . Combine Phases B and C and homogenize. I n c o r p o r a t e Phase A w h i l e s t i r r i n g and homogenize. F i n a l l y , i n c o r p o r a t e Phase D and homogenize a g a i n . Notes: Ye1 l o w i sh-opaque g e l V i s c o s i t y : 63,000 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d R V T , SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

Sp. C ,

Inc.: Formula 32-33/E

5 rpm) a t 24C

Beauty Aids

107

Rep1 e n i s h i ng M i 1 k C1 e a n s e r This cleanser i s formulated s p e c i f i c a l l y f o r f a c i a l skin. I t s g e n t l e c l e a n s i n g and f o a m i n g p r o p e r t i e s a r e a c h i e v e d w i t h o u t t h e use o f soap-based i n g r e d i e n t s and i t i s o i l f r e e . The Cremer01 HMG i m p r o v e s t h e r u b - i n o f t h e p r o d u c t and t h e t e x t u r e o f t h e foam and l e a v e s a smooth a f t e r f e e l . Added e m o l l i e n c e and m o i s t u r i z a t i o n i s c o n t r i b u t e d by t h e c a t i o n i c f i l m - f o r m i n g a b i l i t y o f Ucare Polymer JR-3OM w h i c h l e a v e s a l a s t i n g smoothness t o t h e s k i n d e s p i t e r i n s i n g . Glucamate DOE-I20 works s y n e r g i s t i c a l l y w i t h t h e o t h e r s u r f a c t a n t s t o b u i l d v i s c o s i t y , i m p r o v e foam and a c t as an a n t i - i r r i t a n t . D i r e c t i o n s f o r Use: Wet hands and f a c e . Work a s m a l l amount o f c l e a n s e r i n y o u r hands t o p r o d u c e a l a t h e r . Massage l a t h e r i n t o f a c e , and t h e n r i n s e . V i scosi t y : 2,500 cps pH: 6 . 8 - 7 . 2 Ingredients: D e i o n i z e d Water M i r a c a r e 2MCAS ( C o c o a m p h o d i a c e t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( a n d ) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ) Ucare Polvmer JR-30M (1% aaueous), (.P o l v_a u , aternium-10) Cocamide D E A Glucamate DOE-I20 (PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e ) Glycol D i stearate Glucam E-10 ( M e t h y l G l u c e t h - 1 0 ) Cremerol HMG ( H y d r o x y l a t e d M i 1 k G1 y c e r i d e s ) Preservative C i t r i c Acid

Wt% 35.0 35.0 20.0 2.0 3.0 1.5 3.0 0.5 q.s. q.s.

Procedure: I n a s e p a r a t e p r e m i x c o n t a i n e r , p r e p a r e a 1% s o l u t i o n o f Ucare Polymer JR-30M u s i n g t h e s t a n d a r d p r e p a r a t i o n method f o r t h i s raw m a t e r i a l . I n t h e main c o n t a i n e r , add t h e M i r a c a r e 2MCAS and w a t e r and m i x w i t h moderate t o s l o w a g i t a t i o n w i t h a sweep b l a d e . H e a t t o 70-8OC. When u n i f o r m , s l o w l y add t h e f o r m u l a w e i g h t o f t h e U c a r e s o l u t i o n t o t h e s u r f a c t a n t . When u n i f o r m , d i s s o l v e remaining ingredients i n t h e order l i s t e d , w a i t i n g f o r each t o d i s s o l v e b e f o r e a d d i n g t h e n e x t . Keep h e a t i n g w i t h a d e q u a t e a g i t a t i o n f o r 10-15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and a d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d t o 6 . 8 - 7 . 2 .

SOURCE: A m e r c h o l :

Formulation T74-52-1

108

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin CleameI T h i s i s an opaque l o t i o n f o r m u l a w h i c h i s s o a p - f r e e . Foaming and c l e a n s i n g o f o i l y s k i n i s p r o v i d e d by t h e Avanel S-35 CG, w h i l e a blend o f e m o l l i e n t i n g r e d i e n t s s o f t e n dry areas. Part: A

Name: Dei o n i zed Water Methyl Cellulose/Methocel

Wt%

Ingredient/Trade

B

D e i o n i z e d Water

C

Sodium O c t o x y n o l - 2 Avanel S-35 CG Sodium Benzoate T e t r a s o d i um EDTA

A4M

10.00 0.10 32.00

Ethane S u l f o n a t e / 45.00 0.20 0.10 5.00 1.30 1 .30 0.50 0.50 1.25

D

Petrolatum Octoxynol-3 Mineral O i l Lanol i n Alcohol 01 e y l A l c o h o l Cocamide DEA/Mazamide 8 0

E

I m i d a z o l i d ?n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l Dei o n i zed Water

F

Fragrance C i t r i c A c i d o r T E A t o pH 6 . 0 - 7 . 0

1 15

0.25 0.25 Q.S. Q.S.

Procedure: Heat t h e p a r t A w a t e r t o >8OC. D i s p e r s e t h e m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t h e h o t w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add t h e p a r t B w a t e r a s i c e o r as f r e e z i n g c o l d w a t e r . H o l d t h e b a t c h t e m p e r a t u r e <5C f o r 30-40 m i n u t e s t o g e t c o m p l e t e h y d r a t i o n o f t h e m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e . Add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r and h e a t t h e b a t c h t o 65-70C. B l e n d t h e p a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s i d e v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 65-7OC. Add p a r t D t o t h e b a t c h w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n t o form t h e emulsion. M a i n t a i n t h i s a g i t a t i o n a s t h e batch i s c o o l e d t o 40-45C. B l e n d t h e p a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s i d e v e s s e l and add t o t h e b a t c h . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6.0-7.0.

SOURCE:

PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n K-105

Beauty Aids

109

S k i n C1 e a n s e r T h i s i s an opaque l o t i o n f o r m u l a w h i c h i s s o a p - f r e e . Foaming and c l e a n s i n g o f o i l y s k i n i s p r o v i d e d by Avanel 5-35 CG and Mafo C A B , w h i l e a b l e n d o f e m o l l i e n t i n g r e d i e n t s s o f t e n d r y areas.

_ P a_ rt: A

B

C

D

I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: D e i o n i z e d Water Hydroxypropyl Methyl c e l l u l ose/Methocel T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA T r i e t h a n o l ami ne

Wtt 40-1 00

Sodium O c t o x y n o l - 2 E t h a n e S u l f o n a t e / Avanel S-35 CG Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne/Mafo CAB Petrolatum L a n o l i n A1 coho1 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate/Mazon 159 C e t e a r y l Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20/Macol Cocami de DEA/Mazami de 8 0 Preservative Fragrance C i t r i c A c i d or TEA t o pH 6 . 0 - 7 . 0

47.70 0.10 0.10 0.05 32.00 10.00

124

5.00 0.50 1 .30 2.00 1.25 Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.

Procedure: Disperse the hydroxypropyl methylcellulose i n t h e p a r t A w a t e r a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e by m i x i n g f o r > I 0 m i n u t e s . Add t h e t e t r a s o d i u m EDTA and t h e TEA t o r a i s e t h e pH above 8 . 5 and i n i t i a t e h y d r a t i o n o f t h e h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e . M i x f o r a t l e a s t 20 m i n u t e s w h i l e h e a t i n g t h e b a t c h t o 60-65C. Add t h e p a r t 6 i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m a i n t a i n i n g t h e b a t c h a t 60-65C. B l e n d t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s i d e v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 60-65C. Add p a r t C t o t h e b a t c h w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n t o f o r m t h e e m u l s i o n . M a i n t a i n t h i s a g i t a t i o n as t h e b a t c h i s c o o l e d t o 40-45C. Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e , and a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6.0-7.0.

SOURCE:

PPG Industries, I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n K-106

110

Cosmetic and Toiletry formulations

Skin Gel(O/W) with ASC I11 Raw Materials: Wt$ A Almond oil (Sweet Almond (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) Oil 7.00 Miglyol 812 neutral oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 4.00 OxGnex K liquid (Art. No. 108324) (PEG-8 (and)-Tocopherol (and) Ascorbyl Palmitate (and) Ascorbic Acid (and) Citric Acid) 0.50 Luvitol EHO (Cetearyl Octanoate) 4.50 Eutanol G (Octyldodecanol) 5.00 Cetiol V (Decyl Oleate) 5.00 4.00 B Sorbitol F liquid (Art. No. 102993) Tris(hydroxyrnethy1)-aminomethane (Art. No. 108386) 0.40 (Tromethamine) Preservatives q.s Water, demineralized ad 100.00 C Pemulen TR-1 (Acrylates/ClO-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) Water, demineralized

D ASC I11 (Art. No. 110154) (Lecithin (and) Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline (and) Beta-Sito-Sterol (and) Linoleic Acid (and) Tocopherol (and) Sodium Ascobate (and) Mannitol

0.40 29.60

4.00

Procedure: Disperse the Pemulen TR-1 in the water of phase C and let swell. Incorporate phase B into phase C while homogenizing. Dissolve phase A and add small amounts to phases B/C during homogenization. Add phase D and homogenize again. Note : pH23C=6.3 Viscosity 21,000 mPas (Brookfield RVT, spindle C, 5 rpm) Samples contain as preservatives: 0.05% Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 107427) 0.15% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 106757)

SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Formulation 14-37/G

@

23C

Beauty Aids

11 1

Skin Reiuvenatinq Emulsion The Glucate SS/Glucamate SSE-20-based emulsion has an enriched oil phase with moisturizers and emollients such as Cremerol HMG. This composition provides a long-lasting softness to the skin. Kytamer PC has superior humectant properties. Viscosity: 6,300 cps (20C, LVT, 3, 12 rpm) pH: 5.5 to 6.5 Inqredients: Phase A : Glucate SS (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) Glucamate SSE-20 (PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) Promulgen D (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20) Glyceryl Stearate Cetearyl Octanoate Squalane Cremerol HMG (Hydroxylated Milk Glycerides)

Wt% 1.50 1.50 2.00 1.00 6.00 4.00 1.00

Phase B: Kytamer PC (Chitosan PCA) Deionized Water Glucam P-10 (PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether)

0.15

Phase C : Saccharide Isomerate Preservative

1.00

q.s. 1.00

9.S.

Procedures: Disperse the Kytamer PC with gentle heating (approx. 50C). Heat phase A and phase B to 75C and add phase B to phase A. Cool while stirring to 35C. Add other ingredients. Adjust pH. SOURCE: Amerchol: Formulation E952-101-2 Cleansins Emulsion for Towelettes (With

AHA

Ester)

Raw Materials: Imwitor 380 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Ampholyt JB 130K (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) Preservative Water up to

Wt%

1.00 1.00

q.s. 100.00

Preparation: All ingredients are mixed together at high speed with Ultra Turrax. SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Formulation 1.4F

7 12

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

S k i n Smoother Gel Concept S t a t e m e n t : A s k i n s m o o t h i n g g e l c o n t a i n i n g R i t a HA C - I - C h e l p c o v e r w r i n k l e s and f i n e l i n e s .

and T e n s i n e t o Wt%

Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 ( C a r b o m e r ) 3 . SD A l c o h o l 40 4 . Methyl paraben 5 . D i s t 11 1 e d / D e i on1 z e d W a t e r 6 . D i a z o l id i n y l U r e a 7 . R i t a PEO-3 (PEG-23M) 8 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 9 . R i t a HA C-1-C ( S o d i u m H y a l u r o n a t e ) 10.NaOH 20% 1 1 . T e n s i n e (Wheat P r o t e i n ) 1 2 . F D & C B l u e # 1 B 1% 13.Fragrance

70.15 0.50 10.00 0.10 10.00 0.15 0.50 1 .oo 2.00 1.10 5.00 q.s. q.s.

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Disperse item 2 i n i t e m 1 . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h i t e m 10. Dissolve i t e m 4 i n i t e m 3 and add t o g e l . D i s s o l v e i t e m s 6 and 7 i n i t e m 5 , a d d i t e m s 8 a n d 9 a n d a d d t o g e l . Add i t e m s 1 1 - 1 3 a n d m i x u n t i 1 uniform. F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 123-166

L i posome S e r u m Concept S t a t e m e n t : A h e a v y l o a d l i p o s o m e s e r u m c o n t a i n i n g R o v i some C , and R e f f e r m i n e f o r f a c i a f i rming a t t r i b u t e s .

Tensi ne,

Ingredients: 1. Distilled/Deionized W t e r 2 . Rovisome C (Magnesium A s c o r b y l Phosphate & L e c i t h i n ) 3 . T e n s i n e (Wheat P r o t e i n ) 4 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) 5. G l v c e r i n e 6 . R i i a PEO-3 (PEG-23M) 7 . DMDM H y d a n t o i n

Wt% 63.75 20.00 5.00 3.00 5.00 3.00 0.25

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n i t e m 1 . M i x u n t i 1 un f o r m . Add i t e m s 2 - 5 and i t e m 7 and m i x . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 123-558

SOURCE:

R.I.T.A. C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t on s

Beauty Aids

113

S p a r k l i n g Skin M o i s t u r i z i n g F l u i d w i t h Microcapsules T h i s i s a f l u i d c o n t a i n i n g a t t r a c t i v e m o i s t u r i z i n g beads i n a 1 i g h t , g r e a s e l e s s aqueous base w h i c h e x h i b i t s s p a r k 1 i ng c l a r i t y and smooth f e e l . I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: G1 y c e r i n H y d r o g e n a t e d S t a r c h H y d r o l y s a t e ( 7 0 % ) / H y s t a r CG Methyl paraben Part B: D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer/Carbopol

I

i n Gelatin M crocapsules/LipoPearls

Properties: pH: 5 . 3 - 6 . 0 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) a t 25C Y i e l d V a l u e : 140-200 C l a r i t y ( % T ) : 90-94

2.50 2.50 0.10 83.35 0 25

ETD 2 0 5 0

P a r t C: D e i o n i z e d Water Sodium H y d r o x y m e t h y l G l y c i n a t e / S u t t o c i d e A PVP ( ~ 3 o j D i s o d i um EDTA Benzophenone-4 Part D: Mineral O i l

Wt%

10.00 0.30 0.10 0.05 0.05

0.80

1,500-3,000

Preparation Procedure: 1. P a r t A : Using a g i t a t i o n , d i s s o l v e methylparaben i n a m i x t u r e o f t h e g l y c e r i n and H y s t a r u s i n g s h e a r . 2 . P a r t B : I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , d i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l ETD 2 0 5 0 p o l y m e r i n t o t h e v o r t e x o f r a p i d l y a g i t a t i n g w a t e r . When d i s p e r s e d , r e d u c e a g i t a t i o n and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Add P a r t A t o P a r t B ( C a r b o p o l d i s p e r s i o n ) . 4. I n a separate vessel, blend P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix u n t i l homogeneous. 5 . U s i n g p a d d l e - t y p e a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t C t o P a r t B . M i x t o produce a c l e a r f l u i d . 6 . U s i n g p a d d l e t y p e a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t D t o n e u t r a l i z e d f l u i d u n t i l microcapsules are well dispersed.

SOURCE: B , F .

Goodrich C o . : Foamulation

COO55

114

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

SuDer Moisturizinq G e l This clear gel provides moisture to the skin. The addition of Hypan SA lOOH in this formulation helps stabilize the viscosity of the product while adding to the clarity of the gel, eliminates tackiness and leaves the skin with an elegant feel. Lipo/DNS Completech MBAC-EA helps smooth out the skin and eliminate wrinkles in the area of the eye. Sequence : 1 1

Raw Material: Deionized Water Methylparaben

wtqi

21.75 0.25

2 2

Liponic EG-1 Hypan SA-100H

3

Carbopol ETD 2001 ( 2 % Aq. Disp'n.1

4 4

Deionized Water Triethanolamine, 99%

5

Lubragel MS

6 6

Deionized Water Unicide U-13

0.30

7

Hylacure, 1% Sol'n

5.00

8 8

Deionized Water DNS Completech MBAC-EA

8.50

5.00 0.10 30.00

1.00 0.60 25.00

1.00

1.50

Procedure: 1. Premix Sequence #1 with overhead mixer while heating to 80C until Methylparaben is solubilized. 2 . Premix Sequence # 2 and add to Sequence #1 at 80C on overhead mixer using medium/high agitation. 3. Add Sequence #3 to batch holding temperature at 80C. 4 . Premix Sequence # 4 and add to batch at 80C mixing with overhead mixer at medium speed until completely hydrated without (fish eyes) noticed (approximately 2 0 minutes). Cool to 70C. 5 . Add Sequence #5 without heating to batch held at 70C with medium speed on overhead mixer. Reduce temperature to 3 5 C . 6. At 35C add premixed Sequence # 6 to batch at low speed while cooling to 25C. 7 . At 25C add Sequence # 7 to batch at low speed. 8. Premix Sequence # 8 until into solution and add to batch while mixing at low speed with sweep blade. SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals, Inc.: Formulation No. 867

Beauty Aids

T-i m i r on-.SLl_k_Color

Cor r ec t oy

w t%

INCI Name/Trade Name: Phase A * C e t e a r e t h - 6 ( a n d ) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l / C r e m o p h o r A6 Ceteareth-25/Cremophor A25 G l y c e r y l Monostearate, Pure C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e / L u v i t o l EHO M i n e r a l 01 1 L i g h t 9 0 S U S / B l a n d o l Cetyl Alcohol D i m e t h i c o n e / l OOcs. /Dow C o r n 1 n g 2 0 0 F1 u i d P r o p y l Paraben Phase 6 : Dei o n i z e d Water G1 y c e r i n e USP M e t h y l Paraben T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( a n d ) M i c a / T i m i r o n S i l k Green Phase C : Fragrance Phase D : I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l Deionized Water

115

1 .oo

1 .oo 2.50 7.00 3.00 1.50 0.10 0.10

73.05 3.00 0.20 5.00

0.25 0.30 2.00

115

Procedure: H e a t Phase A a n d Phase 6 s e p a r a t e l y t o 70-75C w i t h s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, t h e w a t e r p h a s e i s a d d e d t o t h e o i l p h a s e a t 70-75C w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a g i t a t i o n . A f t e r m a i n t a i n i n g t e m p e r a t u r e f o r 1 5 m i n u t e s , c o o l t o 55C. H o m o g e n i z e . C o n t i n u e t o c o o l t o 45C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add Phase C a n d c o m b i n e d Phase D . C o o l t o 30C. Notes : The T i m i r o n S i l k G r e e n c o l o r c o r r e c t o r i s u s e d u n d e r makeup t o h i d e r e d b l o t c h y a r e a s on t h e f a c e . T i m i r o n S i l k G o l d w i l l mask b l u i s h d i s c o l o r a t i o n s , a n d c o m b i n e d w i t h T i m i r o n S i l k Red, p r o v i d e a b r i g h t e r appearance t o t h e complexion.

SOURCE:

Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a EM3-45-1

7 16

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Under Eye Gel Concept Statement: A skin smoothing gel containing Rita HA C-1-C and Tensine to help cover wrinkles and fine lines. Insredients: 1. Distilled/Deionized Water 2. Acritamer'940 (Carbomer) 3. SD Alcohol 40 4. Methylparaben 5. Distilled/Deionized Water 6. Diazolidinyl Urea 7. Ritasil 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) 8. Rita HA C-1-C (Sodium Hyaluronate) 9. NaOH 20% 10.Tensine (Wheat Protein)

Wt%

70.15 0.50 10.00

0.10 10.00 0 .1 5

1.00 2.00

1.10 5.00

Compounding Procedure: Disperse item 2 in item 1. Neutralize with item 9. Dissolve item 4 in item 3 and add to gel. Dissolve item 6 in item 5, add items 7 and 8 and add to gel. Add item 10 and mix until uniform. Formulation Ref. No. 123-7A S k i n Smoother Gel

Concept Statement: A skin smoothing gel containing Rita HA C-1-C and Tensine to help cover wrinkles and fine lines. Inaredients1 Distilled/Deionized Water Acritamer 940 (Carbomer) SD Alcohol 40 Methylparaben Distilled/Deionized Water Diazolidinyl Urea Ritasil 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) Rita HA C-1-C (Sodium Hyaluronate) NaOH 20% 10.Tensine (Wheat Protein) ll.FD&C Blue # 1 @ 1% 12.Fragrance

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Wt$

70.15 0.50 10.00 0.10 10.00 0.15 1.00 2.00

1.10 5.00 q.s. q.s.

Compounding Procedure: Disperse item 2 in item 1. Neutralize with item 9. Dissolve item 4 in item 3 and add to gel. Dissolve item 6 in item 5, add items 7 and 8 and add to gel. Add items 10, 11 and 12 and mix until uniform. Formulation Ref. 123-78 SOURCE:

R.I.T.A. Corp.: Suggested Formulations

Beauty Aids

Under-eye and Spot Conc-eaj

117

e r _Ma_keup

T h i s u n d e r e y e a n d s p o t c o n c e a l e r makeup c a n b e a p p l i e d e i t h e r f r o m a n a u t o m a t i c u n i t c o n t a i n i n g a b r u s h f o r a p p l i c a t i o n or f r o m a tube w i t h a narrow opening The u r e t h a n e p o l y m e r c o n t r i b u t e s t o the long l a s t i n g f i l m forming properties while providing i m p r o v e d a d h e s i o n t o t h e s p o t or a r e a b e i n g c o v e r e d . I t i s a l s o a good s u b s t i t u t e f o r t h e p i g m e n t s u s p e n d i n g c a p a b i l i t i e s o f c o l l o i d a l c l a y , so common t o t h e s e t y p e s o f p r o d u c t s

hci-cedie n t f Trade-.-[\lam-e L Part A: 1 , Deionized Water 2 . M e t h y l p a r a b e n NF 3 . H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e / M e t h o c e l 40-202 4 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 5 . D L - P a n t h e n o l USP 6 . U r e t h a n e P o l y m e r / A v a l u r e UR 445 P o l y m e r 7 . G l y c e r e t h - 2 6 / P r o t a c h e m GL-26 P a r t 8: 8 . M i c a / S e r i c i t e GMS-4C

Part C: 1 6 . S t e a r i c A c i d / E m e r s o l 132 1 7 . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e / P r o t a c h e m GMS-450 1 8 . I s o p r o p y l Palmitate/Protachem IPP 1 9 . O c t y l d o d e c y l N e o - P e n t a n o a t e / E l f a c 1205 20.0ctyldodecanol/Eutanol G 21 . G r a p e Seed O i l / L i p o v o l G 22.Jojoba Oil/Lipovol J 23.Propylparaben P a r t D: 2 4 . C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 245 F l u i d 25.Tocopheryl Acetate/Vitamin E Acetate 26.Retinyl Palrnitate/Vitamin A Palmitate 2 7 . A l o e E x t r a c t / A c t i p h y t e o f A l o e Vera 28.Germaben I 1 P r e s e r v a t i v e Appearance:

pH: 7 . 5 - 8 . 0 V i s c o s i t y c p a t 25C:

4.50

5.00

9 . K a o l i n 2457 1 0 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 3 3 2 8 USP A n a t a s e t y p e 1 1 . I r o n O x i d e s / C 3 3 - 7 7 1 5 C o s m e t i c Brown 1 2 . I r o n O x i d e s / C 3 3 - 7 7 3 8 Cosmet c R u s s e t 1 3 . I r o n O x i d e s / C 3 3 - 7 7 7 3 Cosmet c Y e l l o w 1 4 . I r o n O x i d e s / C 3 3 - 7 7 7 5 Cosmet c Red 1 5 . I r o n O x i d e s / C 3 3 - 7 7 3 4 Cosmet c 81 a c k

P r o p e r t i es : C o l o r , Odor,

N t% 58.95 0.10 0.20 1 .oo 0.30 2.50

0.50 3.20 0.50 0.10 0.40 0.10

0.05 3.00 3.00 2.00 1 .oo 2.00

0.50 3.00 0.10 7.00 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.50

Pigmented, moderately t h i c k cream w i t h s l ig h t wax-1 i k e o d o r

5,000-6,000

SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h S p e c i a l t y C h e m i c a l s :

F o r m u l a t i o n A0003(Cont)

118

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Undereve and Spot Concealer MakeuD (Continued] Preparation Procedure: Part A: 1. Add the deionized water to a suitable kettle and then add the methylparaben. 2 . Heat the water to 35C to dissolve the methylparaben and then add the methocel. 3 . Continue mixing until the methocel is dispersed and no lumps appear. 4. Add the triethanolamine and mix until the solution is clear. Add the Panthenol and mix until dissolved. 5 . Add the Avalure UR 445 polymer and mix until it is dispersed and a colloidal white solution occurs. 6. Add the Glycereth-26 and heat to 75C. Part B: I. Mix all of the powders together and mill if necessary until the blend is uniform and no streaks or particles of pigment are present. 0 . Add this powder blend to Part A and mix until ready to combine with Part C. Part C: 9. Mix all of the ingredients of Part C in a suitable vessel and heat to 15C. 10.After all of the ingredients are completely melted, add Part C to Parts A & B and continue mixing until the emulsion forms. Part D: 11.Begin cooling the combined batch to IOC and add the cyclomethicone. Mix well to insure that the cyclomethicone is brought into the emulsion and is uniformly dispersed. Continue cooling and mixing. l2.Add vitamins at 45C and mix well. 13.Add aloe and mix well. 14.Add the Germaben I1 and continue cooling to room temperature.

SOURCE: BF Goodrich Specialty Chemicals: Formulation A0003

Beauty Aids

119

__---_

W a t e r - i n - O i 1 M i 1k --__ Inaredi ents: A : A r l a c e l 582 Arlatone T A r l a m o l HD Paraffin o i l Isopropyl myri s t a t e 8 : A t l a s G-2330 P r o p y l ene g l y c o l MgS04-7H20 Preservatives Water C : Perfume Manufacture: 1 . Heat A and B t o 65C s e p a r a t e l y . 2 . Add B t o A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y , 3 . Homogenise. 4 . Cool t o 35C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s h o m o g e n i s a t i o n . 5 . Add p e r f u m e . Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 22,000 mPas ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T , s p i n d l e E , Formul a t i on F44-12-1 O i l - i n Water T r o p__ ic M i

Wt9: 4.0 1.o 8.0 5.5 7.0 1.25 1.25 0.7 9 . S .

71 . 3 9.s.

6 rpm)

Innredi ents: . W_ t% A r l a t o n e 983 I .1 B r i j 76 1.o A r l a m o l HD 2.0 A r l a m o l S7 3.0 B : A t l a s G-2330 1.25 Propylene g l y c o l 1 .25 Preservatives 9,s. C a r b o p o l 934 ( a ) 0.3 Demi n e r a l i sed w a t e r 90.1 C : Perfume q.s. ( a ) N e u t r a l i s e t h e m i x t u r e w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n t o pH 6 . 5 Manufacture: 1 . Heat A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 7 0 C . 2 . Add A t o B w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 3 . Homogeni s e . 4 . N e u t r a l i s e w i t h a 30% NaOH s o l u t i o n t o pH 6 . 5 . 5 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y . 6 . Add C . Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 34,000 mPas ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e F, 6 rpm) T h i s v e r y l i g h t e m u l s i o n i s l o w i n o i l phase and e m u l s i f i e r c o n t e n t and g i v e s a s t r o n g c o o l i n g e f f e c t on t h e s k i n . F o r m u l a t i o n F44-12-5

A:

SOURCE:

ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

120

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W a t e r - i n - O i 1 - i n-W-r Face M o i s t u r i s ( 2 - S t e p Production)

WtS/a

Inqredients: P r i m a r y E m u l s i o n W1/0: A A r l a c e l 1690 A t l a s SCS 2 0 5 4 A r l a m o l HD A r l a m o l M812

3.3 3.0 15.0 14.0

B Water Preservative

64.7 q.s.

S e c o n d a r y Emu1 s i o n W1 / O / W 2 A P r i m a r y E m u l s i o n W1/0

(50/50) :

50.0 5.0 q.s. 44.6 0.4

B A r l a t o n e 2121 Preservative Water Keltrol*

Manufacture: P r i m a r y E m u l s i o n W1/0: 1 . S l o w l y a d d B t o A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y ( a t room t e m p e r ature). 2 . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y f o r 5 m i n u t e s . S e c o n d a r y E m u l s i o n Wl/O/W2: 1 . Heat B ( w i t h o u t t h e K e l t r o l ) t o 6 0 C . 2. Disperse t h e K e l t r o l i n B w h i l s t s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y (keep t h e temperature a t 60C). 3 . S l o w l y add A t o B w h i l s t s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . 4 . A l l o w t o c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w h i l s t s t i r r i n g g e n t l y . Comments : V i s c o s i t y : 1 5 . 9 0 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T , * K e l t r o l ( X a n t h a n Gum, I N C 1 ) - K e l c o

s p i n d l e D,

SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u l a t i o n F 4 1 - 5 - 1 7

6 rpm)

Beauty Aids

121

W a t e r p r o o f S p e c i a l E f f e c t s Mascara IN

C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : C9-11 I s o p a r a f f i n / S o l t r o l 1 0 0 P o l y e t h y l e n e 6A Candel i 11 a Wax H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n/OH1 an

Wt% 3 0 95 11 . o o 4.50 0.25 I

Phase 6 : Pentaerythri t y l Rosinate/Pentalyn C C9-11 I s o p a r a f f i n / S o l t r o l 1 0 0

2.00 5.00

Phase C : M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben

0.20 0.10

Phase D : Zinc Stearate

1.oo

Phase E : P e t r o l e u m D i s t i l l a t e s ( a n d ) Quaternium-18 H e c t o r i t e ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e C a r b o n a t e / B e n t o n e Gel SS71

35.00

Phase F : P e a r l P i gment/Rona

10.00

Procedure: P r e p a r e Phase B i n advance; combine i n a c l o s e d v e s s e l . Heat t o 65-70C w i t h c o n s t a n t L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c l e a r . Combine Phase A i n a c l o s e d v e s s e l . Heat t o 90-95C w i t h L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n . When c l e a r , add t o r e m a i n i n g phases i n o r d e r , i n s u r i n g t h a t each i s f u l l y d i s p e r s e d b e f o r e p r o c e e d i n g . Cool t o 30C w i t h sidesweep a g i t a t i o n . A t 55C, c h e c k f o r s o l v e n t l o s s and a d j u s t i f n e c e s s a r y .

Note: P e a r l Pigment C o m b i n a t i o n s : A: D i c h r o n a BG 6 : C o l o r o n a Dark B l u e C : C o l o r o n a Magenta D : C o l o r o n a M a j e s t i c Green E: C o l o r o n a Dark B l u e

SOURCE: Rona/EM Industries, I n c , : F o r m u l a AN251

Section V Creams

122

Creams

123

A11 _Purpose _Cream _ _: Raw M a__ t e r_ i a-. ls A : M i n e r a l o i l #70 P a r a f f i n (mp 42-44C) Cetyl alcohol Ceresi n Tocopheryl acetate A1 1a n t o i n Sorbitan stearate Pol ysorbate-20 B:

Wt.% 21 . 6 8.0 5.0 10.0 0.2 0.2 2.0 3.0

Aiidew N-50 Propylene g l y c o l Preservatives Water

3.0 2.0 9.s. balance

Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( B ) r e s p e c t i v e l y t o 80-85C and d i s s o l v e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s Add ( B y r a d u a l l y t o ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t r r i n g . pH: 5 . 4 Formula N o . S Y - 1 9 - 1 _ Col-d .

Cream

Raw M a t e r i a1 s : A: Mineral o i l P a r a f f in I PP Cetyl alcohol Lanol i n hydrogenated Ceresi n Sorbitan stearate Pol y s o r b a t e - 8 0

wtg

~

20.0 9.0 3.0 1. o 2.0 10.0 2.7 2.3

6 : Ajidew N-50

3.0 q.s. balance

P r e s e r v a t i ves Water

Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( B ) r e s p e c t i v e l y t o 80-85C and d i s s o l v e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s . Add (5) g r a d u a l l y t o ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . F o r m u l a No. SC-74

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

124

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

_ A n_ ti -Cell

u l i t e Cream

F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : A c t i v e s s p e c i f i c a l l y d e v e l o p e d t o r e d u c e t h e s i g n s and q u a n t i t y o f c e l l u l i t e a r e i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s q u i c k pene t r a t i n g , n o n - g r e a s y cream. The use o f H e x a n e d i o l Behenyl Beeswax a l l o w s f o r a s t a b l e e m u l s i o n u s i n g a h i g h c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f l o w v i s c o s i t y o i l s . Orange Wax i n t h i s f o r m u l a i s a l s o an a c t i v e due t o s i m i l a r c h e m i s t r y . The c l a i m s f o r C e n t e r c h e m ' s a n t i - c e l l u l i t e p r o d u c t s a r e based on g r o u p s o f c h e m i c a l s w h i c h a r e a l s o f o u n d i n Orange Wax, f o r example; S t e r o i d s , F l a v o n o n e s , F l a v o n o l s and C i nnamates. Raw M a t e r i a l s : Phase A: Hexanedi o l Behenyl Beeswax Glycol Stearate G1 y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e Orange Wax I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e S i l i c o n e O i l 556 E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF Ceteareth-20 Eucalyptus O i 1 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Phase 8 : Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) Carbopol 940 G1 y c e r i n Pronalan A n t i c e l l u l i t e Ivy Extract Seaweed E x t r a c t T r i e t h a n o l ami ne A l o e Vera G e l Germaben I 1

NtV 3.0 4.0 3.0 4.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 1.5 0.5 2.5 50.1 0.2 3.0 10.0 5.0 5.0 0.2 1

.o

1.

o

Procedure: Heat Phase A t o 75 t o 8OC. Heat and m i x Phase B t o 75C. E m u l s i f y b y a d d i n g Phase A t o Phase 8 . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g . Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t 40C. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : T h e r e i s room f o r c h a n g i n g t h i s p r o d u c t by t h e use o f o t h e r a c t i v e s w h i c h p r o d u c e s i m i l a r c l a i m s . The use o f o t h e r p l a n t o i l s w i l l n o t d r a m a t i c a l l y a l t e r t h e f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t . Worth m e n t i o n i n g i s t h e a b i l i t y o f Orange Wax t o mask t h e aroma o f t h e eucalyptus o i l producing a product o f low fragrance.

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Creams

125

Antiwrinkle Nisht Cream Concept Statement: A non-greasy night cream containing Pationic SBL to moisturize and smooth skin, and Tensine and Reductine to reinforce skin firmness. Inuredients: 1. Distilled/Deionized Water 2. Propylene Glycol 3. Mineral Oil 4. Lanolin X-Tra Deo 5 . Petrolatum 6. Butylated Hydroxyanisole 7. Pationic SBL (Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate) 8. Ritacetyl Alcohol 50/50 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 9. Rita SA (Stearyl Alcohol) 10.Phenonip 11.Fragrance 12.Tensine (Wheat Protein) 13.Reductine (Oat Protein)

Wtg

58.00 5 .OO 12.00 2.00 5.00 0.10 2.00 3.50 1.50 0.50 l2.s

5.00 5.00

Compounding Procedure: Mix items 1 and 2 and heat to 80C. Combine items 3 to 9 and heat to 80C. Add oil phase to water phase and homogenize. Cool to 35C and add items 10 to 13. Formulation Ref. No. 122-818 Cleansinq Cream Concept Statement: A cleansing cream with Pationic SCL to provide skin moisture and smoothness, and a pleasant feel. Inaredients: 1. Pationic SCL (Sodium Cocoyl Lactylate) 2. Rita Cetearyl Alcohol 50/50 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 3 . Rita GMS (Glyceryl Stearate)

4. Mineral Oil 5. Ritachol (Mineral Oil and Lanolin Alcohol) 6. Distilled/Deionized Water 7. Glycerine 8. DMDM Hydantoin

Wtg

0.50 1.60 4.00

20.00 4.00 67.40

5.00 0.20

Compounding Procedure: Combine items 1-5 and heat to 80C. Combine items 6 and 7 and heat to 80C. Add oil phase to water phase. Cool to 35C and add item 8. Formulation Ref. No. 120-205A SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp.: Suggested Formulations

126

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulabons

_C_o- -l -d C r e a m (O[.W]

I =red~ gn1-C:

Wt%

. .

P o l y s y n l ane M i n e r a l 011 P a r a f f i n Wax I .P.M. Beeswax Lanol i n Propylene Glycol P o t a s s i um H y d r o x i d e A r l a c e l 40 P . O . E Sorb1 t o 1 Beeswax Stearic Acid Perfume & P r e s e r v a t i v e s Water

32 0 4.0 4.0 8.0 3.0 8.0 4.0 0.3 2.5 1.o 1.5 9. s 100.0 I

.

ad.

Hand

Cream

w_t% 4.0

Lnsre.dientsL G l y c e r y l Monostearate ( S . E . ) S t e a r i c A c i d TP Cetyl Alcohol Lanol i n Polysynlane P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Triethanolamine Preservatives Water & P e r f u m e

ad.

4.0 2.0 2.0 4.0 3.0 1. o 0.2 100.0

_I _n g y e & i ~ n . t t :

Wtsl,

Cetyl Alcohol Stearyl Alcohol Sod1 um L a u r y l S u l f a t e Polysynlane Sesame O i l Glycerine Preservative Water & P e r f u m e

3.5 7.0

SOURCE:

Polyester C o r p . :

2.0 8.5 5.0 5.0 0.2 ad. 100.0

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

127

Cream F o r m u l a SK-8b i s a g l o s s y c r e a m w i t h m e d i u m - h i g h v i s c o s i t y a n d i s made w i t h a h i g h c o n t e n t o f m i n e r a l o i l a n d s t e a r y l a1 c o h o 1 V i s c o s i t y c o n t r o l is e x c e l 1 e n t , a n d t h i s emol 1 i e n t f o r m u l a t i o n c o u l d make a c o l d c r e a m , m o i s t u r i z e r , o r s k i n c l e a n s e r . The f o r m u l a t i o n i s t h e r m a l l y s t a b l e .

.

In q r e d i e n t s : A Light mineral o i l Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 B r i j 72 S t e a r e t h - 2 B Water,

wto/, 15.0 5.0 2.5 2.5

de o n i zed

74.8

C P r e s e r v a t ve

q.s.

D Fragrance

0.2

Preparation: H e a t ( A ) t o 70C a n d ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) a n d a g i t a t e w i t h p r o p e l l e r . Add ( C ) b e l o w 50C a n d ( D ) a t 35C. Add w a t e r t o r e p l a c e t h a t l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. F o r m u l a SK-8b O i 1 - i n-Water

H i qh M i n e r a l O i 1 Cream

T h i s f o r m u l a i s a v e r y v i s c o u s , g l o s s y cream w i t h e x c e l l e n t p h a s e s t a b i l i t y f o r a t l e a s t e i g h t weeks a t 5C, 40C, 50C, a n d room t e m p e r a t u r e , a n d a t l e a s t f i v e f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s . Inqredients: A- L i g h t m i n e r a B r i j 721 B r i j 72

. W_ t% 70.0 3.7 3.3

oi1

22.7 0.1

B Water, d e i o n zed Carbomer 9 3 4 C Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n

10% a q u e o u s

0.1

D Preservative

q.s.

E Fragrance

0.1

Preparation: H e a t ( A ) t o 70C a n d ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( A ) t o ( 5 ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a n c h o r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) a b o u t 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C a n d r e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . F o r m u l a SK-10

SOURCE: ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

728

Cosmetic and Toiletry Fornlulations

Cream, O/W, with MPC-Milk PeDtide Complex Wt8;

Raw Materials: a) Emulgade SE Lanette 0 Myritol 318 Cetiol OE Cetiol J 600 Phenonip

8.50 3.00 4.00 2.00 3.00 0.30 63.90 0.30 5.00

b) Water, distilled Phenonip Karion F liquid c) Water, distilled Na3-Citrate x 2H20 MPC-Milk Peptide Complex

9.38 0.12 0.50

Manufacture: a) Melt and bring to approx. 70C. b) Bring to approx. 70C and add to a). Continue stirring until cream has cooled to approx. 30C. c ) Dissolve at room temperature and add to ab) with stirring. Perfume, homogenize. Cream, O/W, with Protectan Raw Materials: a) Cutina MD Cutina CP Eumulgin B1 Eumulgin B2 Cetiol B Phenonip

Wt$ 4.00 4.00 1.00 1.00 5.00 0.30

b) Water, distilled Phenonip Carbopol 940 Triethanolamine Glycerin

70.40 0.30 0.50 0.50 3.00

c) Protectan

10.00

Manufacture: a) Melt and bring to approx. 70C. b) Bring to approx. 70C and stir into a). Continue stirring until cooled to approx. 30C. c ) Stir in. Perfume, homogenize. SOURCE: Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH: Formulas

Creams

Raw M a t e r-i a l s : A : A r l a m o l HD A r l a m o l M 812 Stearyl alcohol A r l a c e l 60 Phenoni p

Wto/, 10.00 5.00 5.00 2.00 0.30

B : Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p G - 2330 Keltrol A r l a t o n e 2121

60.30 0.30 1 .50 0.10 5.50

Glycoderm ( P )

10.00

C:

129

Manufacture: A : M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C. B . B r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C and add t o A w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. C: S t i r i n . Perfume, homogenize C_ream_QfW R a w Mate r ia 1s.: A : Eumulgin 2 8 6 C e t i o l J 600 Phenoni p

f o r Daycare o f O i l y S k i n Wt% 3.00 5.00 0.30

B: Water, d i s t i l l e d Carbopol 934

60.00

Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p T r i e t h a n o l am1 ne

18.40 0.30 1.50

C:

0 : Thiosome ( P )

1.50

10.00

Manufacture: D i s p e r s e b ) w i t h r a p i d s t i r r i n g a t room t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i l f r e e f r o m lumps. Heat t o a p p r o x . 70C and add t o a ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C; add c ) and d ) . Perfume, homogenize.

SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Suggested Formulations

130

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream,

Ty0.e OLW,

w i t h Phvtodermin

Raw M a t e r i a l s : a) Emulgade 1000 N I N o v a t a A0 Lanette 0 C e t i o l OE C e t i o l J 600 Phenoni p

Wt% 8.00 2.00 2.00

b ) Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p G1 y c e r i n

62.40 0.30

8.00 7.00 0.30

5.00 5.00

c ) Phytodermi n Manufacture: a ) M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C. b ) B r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C and add t o a ) w i t h s t i r r i n g C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. c) S t i r in. Perfume, homogenize. Cream,

TyDe W/O.

R.3E- M a t E r i a ! s ; a ) A r l a c e l 1689 Paraffinum subliquidurn A r l a m o l HD M i g l y o l 812 Isopropyl myri s t a t e Phenoni p

w i t h Phytodermin Wt% 3.50 8.00 6.00 2.00 2.00 0.30

b ) Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p G1 y c e r in Magnesium s u l f a t e

62 9 0 0.30 4.00 0.50

c ) Phytodermin

10.00

d) A e r o s i l R 972

I

0.50

Manufacture: Add b ) t o a ) w i t h s t i r r i n g a t room t e m p e r a t u r e (25-3OC). Add c ) and d) t o a b ) . Perfume, r o l l .

SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Formulae

Creams

131

Emollient Cream

Glucate SS/Glucamate SSE-20 is used as the basic nonionic emulsifier system. Glucam E-10 is added for its humectance in this excellent white cream base formula. Viscosity: 100,000 to 120,000 cps pH: 5 . 5 to 6.5 Inqredients: Oil Phase: Glucate SS (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) Glucamate SSE-20 (PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) Squalane Glyceryl Stearate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate Cera Alba Water Phase: Glucam E-10 (Methyl Gluceth-10) Deionized Water Preservative

wtg

1.0 2.0 7.0 1.5

8.0 3.0

1.5 q.s.

Procedures: Heat both phases to 85C and add the water phase to the oil phase. Cool while stirring to 35C. Add other ingredients. Adjust pH. Note: Homogenization is recommended. SOURCE: Amerchol: Formulation E952-093-6 O/W Basic Cream with AHA-Esters

Raw Materials: A) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Softisan 378 (Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Triglyceride) Imwitor 375 (Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/ Oleate) Imwitor 928 (Glyceryl Cocoate) Imwitor 370 (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) Antioxidant B) Glycerin Preservative Water

Wt%

16.00 5.00

5.00 3.00 7.00 q.s.

5.00 up to

C) Fragrance

q.s. 100.00

q.s.

Preparation: (A) is heated up to 70 degrees C . (B) is brought to the same temperature and emulsified into (A). The cream is cooled while stirring, and at about 30 degrees C. the fragrance is added. SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Formulation l.lR(1)

132

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

_ Face .

Cream

__ I ng r ed ien t s .:

Wt%

Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d C a r b o p o l 934 Propylene Glycol

79.30 0.20 2.00

Phase 5: Hest IS-2-0 ( I s o s t e a r e t h - 2 Octanoate) P r o d u c t S E - 1 0 0 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e & PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) Hetan SS ( S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e ) Lanol i n Hest CSO ( C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e ) Hetoxol J (Cetearyl Alcohol & Ceteareth-20) Hest L-2-0 ( L a u r e t h - 2 O c t a n o a t e )

5.00 4.00 2.50 1 .60 3.00 0.60 0.30

Phase C : Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % S o l u t i o n )

0.50

Phase D : Germaben I I E

1.oo

Specifications: pH: 6 . 5 0 V i s c . # 4 / 1 2 : 2 6 , 0 0 0 cps Procedure: 1 . I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e , d i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 934 i n t o H20 using a l i g h t n i n ' type mixer. 2 . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d and f r e e o f lumps, add p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and h e a t t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g . 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e , combine Phase B and h e a t t o 75C w h i l e m i x i ng. 4. A t 75C, add Phase B t o Phase A . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 5 . Add Phase C . M i x w e l l . 6 . Cool t o b e l o w 40C and add Phase D . SOURCE: H e t e r e n e . I n c . :

Formulation

HC 94-148

Creams

133

Hiah Gloss Cream, T w e O/W, with LiDosomes

Raw Materials: A) Dynacerin 660 (Oleyl Erucate) Imwitor 370 (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) Imwitor 375 (Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/ Oleate) Imwitor 928 (Glyceryl Cocoate) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Softisan 378 (Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Triglyceride) Softisan 601 (Glyceryl Cocoate (and) Hydrogenated Coconut Oil (and) Ceteareth-25) Macadamia Nut Oil Shea Butter Finsolv TN (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) Hombitec H (Titanium Dioxide) Volatile Silicone Oil 344 B ) Keltrol F (Xanthan Gum) Methocel K 100 LV Premium (Methyl Cel ulose) Glycerin Preservative Water up to C) Tocopherol Acetate Fragrance Natipide I1 (Water (and) Alcohol (and Lecithin)

Wt”s 7.00 5.00

5.00 3.00 2.00 2.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 1.00 0.20 0.50 0.50 5.00 Ci.S

100.00 0.30 0.30 3.00

Preparation: (A) is heated to about 70 degrees C. To form (B), Keltrol and Methocel are dispersed in water and stirred until homogeneous. (B) is brought to the same temperature and emulsified into (A). (C) i s added at 30 degrees C. Formulation 1.1T Cream with Citric Acid Ester and Glycerol

Raw Materials: A) Imwitor 370 (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) Imwitor 375 (Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/ Oleate) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Imwitor 900 (Glyceryl Stearate) Soft Paraffin Cetyl Alcohol B) Keltrol F (Xanthan Gum) Glycerol Preservative Water up to

Wt$ 3.00 2.00 5.00 4.00 5.00 4.00 0.50 5.00 q.s 100.00

Preparation: (A) is warmed up to ca. 70 degrees C. (B) is mixed until homogeneous, heated up to the same temperature, and emulsified into (A). Formulation 1.1U SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Suggested Formulations

134

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hiqh Gloss Cream, Type W/O, with Almond Oil Raw Materials: A) Softisan Gel (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate) Miglyol 0 4 0 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate) Dynacerin 660 (Oleyl Erucate) Imwitor 780K (Isostearyl Diglyceryl Succinate) Almond Oil Shea Butter Magnesium Sulfate Preservative Water

wt%

10.00

10.00 2.00 5.00 2.00 2.00

2.00 up to

Tocopheryl Acetate Perfume " 01iv i a"

q.s. 100.00

0.30 0.30

Preparation: (A) is warmed up to ca. 75 degrees C and stirred. (B) is brought to the same temperature and emulsified into (A). (C) is added at 30 degrees C. Formulation 1.2M (1) Care Cream with Skin Protection Raw Materials : A) Imwitor 375 (Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/ Oleate) Imwitor 960K (Glyceryl Stearate SE) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Softigen 701 (Glyceryl Ricinoleate) Cetyl Alcohol

B) Sorbitol Natrosol 250 HR (Hydroxyethyl Cellulose) Preservative Water up to

C) Fragrance

Wt$ 5.00 5.00 7.00 3.00 2.00 5.00 0.30 q.s. 100.00 q.s.

Preparation: (A) is heated up to 75 degrees C. (B) is heated up to the same temperature and emulsified into (A). At 30 degrees C, (C) is added. Formulation 1.1V SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Creams

135

Lisht Moisturizins Cream for Dry Skin Ultra light weight moisturizing cream. Leaves the skin with a soft satiny feel from the Liponate NPGC-2. Lipo/DNS Completetech MBAC-DS helps control the oiliness of the skin. Sequence : 1 1 1

Raw Material/INCI Name: Deionized Water Methylparaben Trisodium EDTA

63.35 0.25 0.05

2

Carbopol 2984 (2% sol'n)

17.50

3 3 3 3 3

Liponate NPGC-2 Lipomulse 165 Lipocol C/Cetyl Alcohol Propylparaben Butylparaben

4.00 1.50 0.60 0.10 0.05

Deionized Water Triethanolamine, 99%

1.00 0.35

Deionized Water Unicide U-l3/1midazolidinyl Urea

1.00 0.25

Deionized Water Completech MBAC-DS

8.50 1.50

Wt%

Procedure: 1. Heat Sequence #1 to 75C. Mix with overhead mixer at medium speed until all ingredients are completely into solution. 2. Heat Sequence #2 to 75C and add to Secquence #1 with medium agitation (holding temperature at 75C). 3 . Mix Sequence #3 together and heat to 75C, then add to batch with medium/high agitation. 4. Premix Sequence # 4 ingredients and add to batch at 70-75C. Switch to moderate sweep and cool slowly to 35C. 5. At 35C add Sequence #5 to batch with low/medium speed on sweep until temperature cools to 25C. 6. Premix Sequence #6 together until completely into solution and then add to batch on sweep mixer. SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals Inc.: Formulation No. 8 2 2

136

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

L i a h t N i a h t Cream Designed f o r normal t o o i l y s k i n , 1i g h t , dry f e e l .

t h i s emulsion features a

I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: P a r t A: Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ P e m u l e n TR-2 Carbomer/Carbopol U l t r e z 10 Laneth-5 (and) Ceteth-5 (and) Oleth-5 (and) Steareth-5 Solulan 5 M i n e r a l O i 1 / D r a k e 0 1 21 O c t y l S t e a r a t e / C e t i o l 868 Part 8: G l y c e r i n / P r i c e r i n e 9083 Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben/Phenonip Dei o n i zed Water

ww9 0.25 0.50

/

1 .oo 10.00 8.00 2.00

2.00 77.20

P a r t C: S o d i um H y d r o x i d e S o l u t i on ( 1 8% w/w)

0.40

P a r t D: Fragrance/Fruity

0.15

F l o r a l S c e n t NY-16

Properties: pH: 5 . 0 - 5 . 1 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) a t 25C: 5 5 , 0 0 0 - 6 0 , 0 0 0 A p p e a r a n c e : Creamy w h i t e v i s c o u s e m u l s i o n Preparation Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . He a t u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y l i q u i d and m i x u n t i l h o m o g e n e o u s . Add t h e p o w d e r e d p o l y m e r s t o t h e l i q u i d and m i x u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . 2 . Combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e . Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h g o o d m i x i n g u n t i l t h e p o l y m e r s h y d r a t e w e l l ( a b o u t 15 m i n u t e s ) . 3 . Add n e u t r a l i z e r s l o w l y u n t i l t h i c k e n i n g i s o b s e r v e d . W h i l e t h e emu1 s i on i s s t i 1 1 o f m i x a b l e c o n s i s t e n c y , i n c r e a s e m i x i ny u n t i l t h e e m u l s i o n i s creamy w h i t e and homogeneous. 4 . F i n i s h b y a d d i n g t h e f r a g r a n c e and r e m a i n i n g n e u t r a l i z e r and m i x i n g u n t i1 homogeneous.

SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n PO053

Creams

137

M o i s t u r i z i n g Cream C o l d P r o c e s s _W[O Ingredients , w_t yo Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Cetyl Dimethicone 5.0 C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) Mineral O i 1 5.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 5.0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) 5.0 S i l i c a (Degussa R 8 1 2 ) 0.5 Phase 8 : Water 77.9 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e ( T y l o s e H20) 0.8 P r e s e r v a t ives Q.S. Perfume Q.S. Color Q.S. Procedure: 1 M i x t h e oils o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . Add t h e fumed s i l i c a t o t h e o i l phase w i t h a d e q u a t e a g i t a t i o n a n d v e n t i l a t i o n . M i x w e l l . 2 Dissolve the Hydroxyethyl Cellulose i n t o t h e vortex o f t h e a g i t a t i n g w a t e r phase. A l l o w t h e c e l l u l o s e t o f u l l y h y d r a t e p r i o r t o a d d i n g t h e sodium c h l o r i d e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 3 . Add Phase B s l o w l y i n t o Phase A w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 4 . Homogeni z e 5 P r e s e r v a t i v e s , p e r f u m e and c o l o r c a n be added upon f o r m i n g t h e emulsion. B a r r i e r Cream Cold Mix Formula Wt% Ingredients: Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol 5.0 ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5.0 D e c y l O l e a t e ( T e g o s o f t DO) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 5.0 5.0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) Silica 0.5 Phase B : Sodium C i t r a t e ( s o l u t i o n ) * 20.0 58.7 Water 0.8 Hydroxyethylcellulose Phase C : Fragrance Q.S. P r e s e r v a t i ves Q.S. * l o 0 G Sodium C i t r a t e / l l i t e r w a t e r . pH a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 0 w i t h C i t r c A c i d . Procedure: he i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A u n t i 1 1 . I n a vessel, blend together un i f o r m . 2 . I n a separate vessel, disperse the Hydroxyethylcellulose i n t o t h e water. 3 . Add t h e Phase B s l o w l y t o Phase A w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 4 . Add Phase C , m i x u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . 5 . Homogeni ze and d i s p e n s e . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

738

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizins Day Cream

This emulsion utilizes Glucate SS/Promulgen D as the emulsifier pair. Cremerol HMG provides moisturization. Glucam E-20 and BioCare Polymer BHA-10 are incorporated for humectance and skin hydration. Ucon Fluid AP has specific emollient properties. Viscosity: 100,000 to 120,000 cps pH: 5.5 to 6.5 Inqredients: Phase A: Glucate SS Promulgen D Cetearyl Octanoate Cyclomethicone Cera Alba Cremerol HMG Octyl Methoxycinnamate Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Ucon Fluid AP Phase B: Acrylates/ClO-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Deionized Water Glucam E-20 Phase C: Biocare Polymer BHA-10 Tocopheryl Acetate

Wt$

1.00 1.50 6.00

1.50 1.50

2.00

1.50 0.75

1.50 0.20 q.s.

2.00 1.00 0.10

Phase D: Triethanolamine Preservative Procedures: Disperse the carbomer in the water and add Glucam E-20. Heat phase A and phase B to 75C and add phase B to phase A. Add the triethanolamine while mixing and cool to 35C. Add other ingredients. Readjust the pH. SOURCE: Amerchol: Formulation E952-095-6

Creams

139

M o i s t u r i z i n a M i 1 k Creme w i t h Monasi 1 PLN T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s a h i g h d e g r e e o f s u b s t a n t i v i t y and and c o n d i t i o n i n g . I t h e l p s t o m i n i m i z e o r a l l e v i a t e d r y s k i n c o n d i t i o n s w h i l e l e a v i n g a smooth n o n - g r e a s y a f t e r - f e e l .

__ P a-r t :

-Raw - -.Materi

A A A A A

a1 : Monalac MPL Monaquat SL-5 Water Potassium Hydroxide (45%) M o n a s i l PLN

B B B B

Monafax MAP 1 6 0 Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e

WE

5.0 5.0 57.2 0.2 4.0

0.5 20.0 5.1 3.0

Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and h e a t t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and c o n t i n u e t o homogenize. S t i r - c o o l , w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n , t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 t h e n f i l l . Physical Properties: Appearance: M i l k y w h i t e F o r m u l a t i o n F-732

Moi sturi z i ng M i 1-k C.re-me

A A A

Raw M a t e r i a l : Water P o t a s s i um H y d r o x i d e ( 4 5 % ) Monafax MAP 1 6 0 Monalac MPL Monaquat TG

WJ% 61 . 2 0.2 0.5 5.0 5.0

B B B

Cetearyl Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate Monalac ML

5.1 3.0 20.0

Part: A A

Procedure: S e p a r a t e l y combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f b o t h phases i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d and h e a t t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and homogenize. S t i r c o o l , w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n , t o 4 0 C , add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e i f r e q u i r e d t h e n a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 and f i l l . Physical Properties: Appearance: M i 1 ky w h i t e F o r m u l a t i o n F-731

SOURCE:

Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

740

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

_____ Moi s t u r i z i =Mi

1 k Creme V a r i a t i on

Inqredi%.Ls.L

W B P a r t A: M o n a l a c MPL 3.0 Monaquat SL-5 5.0 Water 60.2 P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e (45%) 0.2 Part 8 : M o n a f a x MAP 1 6 0 0.5 M o n a l a c ML 20.0 5.1 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( A l f o l 1618CG) Isopropyl Palmitate 2.0 M o n a s i l PCA 1.5 Part C: Fragrance 2.0 Germaben I 1 0.5 Procedure: 1 ) Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h p h a s e s s e p a r a t e l y . 2 ) H e a t b o t h s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. 3 ) Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and h o m o g e n i z e f o r a t l e a s t 15 m i n u t e s . 4 ) S t i r c o o l , w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n t o 45C. 5 ) Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , and p r e s e r v a t i v e ( P a r t C ) . 6 ) A d j u s t pH t o 6.0-6.5, t h e n f i l l . T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es : P h y s i c a l Appearance: Viscous M i l k y L o t i o n V i s c o s i t y : 9 , 0 0 0 CP

Moi s t u r i z i n g M i j k Creme This high moisturizing formulation helps t o minimize o r a l l e v i a t e d r y s k i n c o n d i t i o n s w h i l e l e a v i n g a smooth n o n - g r e a s y after-feel I n g r e d i e-nt: Wtfh Part A: M o n a l a c MPL 5.0 M o n a q u a t TG 5.0 Water 61 . 2 P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e (45%) 0.2 Part 8: M o n a f a x MAP 1 6 0 0.5 M o n a l a c ML 20.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 5.1 3.0 I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h p h a s e s s e p a r a t e l y a n d h e a t t o 75C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) a n d c o n t i n u e t o h o m o g e n i z e . S t i r - c o o l , w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n , t o 40C, a d d f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r a n d p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 t h e n f i l l .

.

SOURCE:

Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested Formulations

Creams

141

M o i s t u r i z j g q S k i n Cream

An e l e g a n t a n d r i c h m o i s t u r i z i n g c r e a m b a s e d o n t h e NMF ( N a t u r a l M o i s t u r i z i n g F a c t o r ) c o n c e p t o f Prodew 1 0 0 . Ingyedient; A: D e i o n i z e d Water Veegum HV, M a g n e s i u m A l u m i n u m S i l i c a t e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% R h o d i g e l , X a n t h a n Gum 6 : Squalane (Fitoderm)

C e t y l Palmi t a t e Dioctyl Maleate Propylene Glycol Isostearate Pentaerythrityl Tetrapelargonate D i m e t h i c o n e (100 c s . ) Hydrogenated S o y G l y c e r i d e Stearyl Alcohol Stearic Acid C:

S o r b i t o l ( a n d ) Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) P r o l i n e ( a n d ) S o d i u m PCA ( a n d ) H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ( P r o d e w 1 0 0 ) Preservative

W t .%* 59.60

I .oo 2.40 0.20

6.00 4.00 8.00 4.00 4.00 0.80 1 .oo 1 .oo 5.00

3.00 q.s.

Procedure: Weigh t h e P a r t A w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l a n d m i x w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r a t 5 0 0 0 r p m . W e i g h a n d d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum H V a n d R h o d i g e l , add them s l o w l y t o t h e w a t e r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 2 0 m i n u t e s . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 6 5 C . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s a n d c o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t 5 0 0 0 rprn. W e i g h t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l . M i x a n d h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A a n d m i x f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s a t 5 0 0 0 r p m . Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o produce a s m a l l v o r t e x . C o o l w h i l e m i x i n g t o 35C a n d a d d t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g each f o r 5 m i n u t e s . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and package a t 25-3OC. *AS r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , Inc.

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n f r o m Centerchem,

742

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Multi-functional

Day Cream

F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and Advantages: This Bee's M i l k formulation creates a b a r r i e r t h a t e f f e c t i v e l y r e p l e n i s h e s m o i s t u r e , s o f t e n s and i m p a r t s r a d i a n c e . T h i s w i l l combat d r y s k i n caused by v a r i a t i o n s i n h u m i d i t y and w i l l h e l p t o minimize t h e signs o f aging. Raw M a t e r i a l s : ______-.__ Water Phase I : Bermocol E 4 8 1 G1 y c e r i ne Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne

O i l Phase: N i k k o l L e c i no1 S - 1 0-M Squal ane Macadamia Nut O i l Borage O i l Vitamin E Vitamin A Palmitate K e s t e r Wax-62 Glycerol Monostearate O z o k e r i t e 158/160 Hexanedi o l Behenyl Beeswax P h y t o g l y c o l ip i d Liquapar Water Phase 1 1 : Bee's M i l k

___ Wt% 0.4 2.7 52.1 0.2 2.1 7.9 4.3 2.9 0.3 0.3 1.o 0.2 0.3 0.3 4.0 1.o 20.0

Procedure: M i x and h e a t Water Phase I components t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase components, h e a t t i l l 75C and m i x . Add s l o w l y t h e Water Phase I t o t h e O i l Phase under a g i t a t i o n ( a p p r o x . 700 rpm) m a i n t a i n i n g m i x i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C f o r 5 m i n u t e s (make s u r e t h a t m i x i n g does n o t exceed 800 r p m ' s , as a phase i n v e r s i o n w i l l o c c u r ) . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 50-55C, add Water Phase I 1 a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , under moderate a g i t a t i o n ( a p p r o x . 200 r p m ' s ) , c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 5 m i n u t e s and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d t o g i v e t h i s p r o d u c t an SPF o f 6 - 8 b y u s i n g E s c a l o l 507 a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 5% and r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f water and/or o i l s .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Creams

. N. i

143

ght-CXeam

w t.?h 15.0

I n g r e d i end-s,

Pol y s y n l a n e P a r a f f i n Wax L a n o l i n 01 1 Hydrogenated L a n o l i n Beeswax Stearic Acid Glyceryl Monostearate

2.0 4.0 6.0 3.0 1.5 2.5

1.P.M PEG-200 Mono S t e a r a t e P o t a s s i um H y d r o x i d e

6.0 2.0 0.2

P r e s e r v a t i v e s 8, Perfume

9,s.

Water

ad.

100.0

E n r i c h e d N i g h t Cream (W/O) Ingredients: AL L a n o l a t e Lanoli n Alcohol M i n e r a l 01 1 P a r a f f i n Wax P o l y s y n l ane

Wt% 0.6

2.5 7.5 2.5 12.0 6.0 1 .o 2.5 6.0

I.P.M.

Olive O i l Dehyrnuls E Propylene Glycol Perfume & P r e s e r v a t i v e s Water

ad.

q.s. 100.0

L i q u i d N i g h t Cream I n g r e d i ent-s : Pol y s y n l ane G l y c e r y l Mono-Stearate Lan t r o l Stearic Acid Cetanol Tegin P PEG-200 Mono S t e a r a t e S o l u l a n C-24 Triethanolarnine Veegurn R Perfume & P r e s e r v a t i v e s Water

SOURCE:

Polyesther Corp.:

Wt%

15.0 1.5 3.5 2.5 0.5 2.5 1.0 0.7 0.3 0.5 q.s. ad. 1 0 0 . 0

Suggested Formulations

744

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

N i g h t Cream

No.

Phase:

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

A A A A A B B B B

B B B B C D

Ingredient: Dei o n i zed w a t e r S o d i um b o r a t e G1 y c e r i n e X a n t h a n gum T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Cetearyl alcohol Sorbit a n sesquiol eate G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l Vitamin E acetate Beeswax Mineral o i l Octyl palmitate Preservative mixture Fragrance

Wt% 43.45 0.70 2.00 0.30 0.10 2.00 2.00 5.00 8.00 0.20 12.00 15.00 8.00 1.oo 0.25

Manufacturing Procedure: Phase A : H e a t t o 75C. Phase B : H e a t t o 7 5 C . Add t o Phase A . C o o l t o 40C . Phase C : Add t o a b o v e c o o l e d m i x t u r e . Phase D: Add t o a b o v e c o o l e d m i x t u r e a l o n g w i t h Phase C . Homogeni z e . T h i s f o r m u l a i s m e a n t t o b e l e f t on t h e s k i n a n d t o h a v e a h e a v i e r f i l m so t h a t i t l a s t s a l l n i g h t . T h i s i s a w a t e r - i n - o i l e m u l s i o n and t h e p r i n c i p a l e m u l s i f i e r s a r e S o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e and a c o m b i n a t i o n o f sodium b o r a t e and beeswax. T h i s c o m b i n a t i o n o f o i l s g i v e s p r o p e r w e i g h t a n d f e e l . C o u l d b e a l l Macadamia N u t O i l , b u t i t m i g h t b e e x p e n s i v e . T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n c a n a l s o be used a s a make-up r e m o v e r f o r l i p s t i c k a n d e y e makeup. F a c i a1

C1 e a n s i n a Cream

E%

_ N o_ . _ Ph _a_ se: U r e d i e n t : 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

A A B 8 B B B B B

c

D e i o n i zed w a t e r Glycerine Mineral o i l O i 1 s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i 1 O i l s o f Aloha Kukui Nut O i l Cetyl alcohol C12-15 a l c o h o l s b e n z o a t e Glyceryl stearate P o l y s o r b a t e 60 Preservative

54,OO 6.00 15.00 5.00 5.00 2.00 2.00 10.00 1 .oo

QS

Manufacturing Procedure: Phase A : H e a t w a t e r a n d g l y c e r i n e p h a s e t o 75C. Phase B : H e a t o i l p h a s e t o 75C. Add t o w a t e r p h a s e . C o o l t o 40C. Phase C : Add p r e s e r v a t i v e .

SOURCE: O i l s o f A l o h a :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

145

Nisht Cream W/O with Reqeneration Effect

Comvonent: I Dehymuls PGPH/Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate Lameform TGI/Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate Bienenwachs 8100/Cera Alba Zincum N 29/Zinc Stearate Traubenkernol/Vitis Vinifera Myritol 312/Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides Cetiol SN/Cetearyl Isononanoate Cetiol OE/Dicaprylyl Ether Copherol 1250/Tocopheryl Acetate Vitamin A Palmitate I1

Water 1,4-Butylene Glycol MgS04-7H20

I11 Collapuron DAK/Desamidocollagen Preservative/Perfume

Wt%

4.0 2.0

2.0 2.0

1.0 3.0 8.0

5.0 3.0 0.2

63.3 5.0 1.0 0.5 q.s.

Viscosity, Brookfield, mPas: 112,500 Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Melt the components listed under I at 80-85C and stir until a homogeneous mixture results. 2. Heat the components listed under I1 to 80-85C and add to phase I with stirring/homogenizing. Stir for 5 minutes at this temperature. 3. Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring in such a way that it remains in continual motion. Avoid incorporation of air. Homogenize at 65-55C by means of a suitable dispersion unit (e.g. Ultra Turrax) in order to improve stability and structure. Add the single components listed under I11 at 30C. Allow to cool to 30C. Hint: Duration and intensity of homogenization influence the viscosity.

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Formulation No. 96/030/3

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

146

N i q h t F o u n d a t i o n Cream T h i s cream e x h i b i t s an e l e g a n t , h i g h l y e m o l l i e n t f e e l . I t i s s u i t a b l e f o r a n i g h t cream, a f o u n d a t i o n cream o r an a l l - p u r p o s e body cream.

__Part: A

I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: U.S.P. White M i n e r a l O i l Cetyl Alcohol Sodium C12-CI5 P a r e t h - 3 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l

Wt%

S-30

5.0 0.25 76.75 As D e s i r e d

Propylene Glycol M e t h y l Paraben D e i o n i z e d Water C o l o r & Perfume

B

pH: About 6 . 8 Appearance: Non-pourable,

6.0 10.0 2.0

v i s c o u s cream

Procedure: H e a t p a r t A t o 70C a n d p a r t B t o 75C. Add p a r t A t o p a r t B w i t h moderate t o h i g h a g i t a t i o n , i n c l u d i n g s i d e - s c r a p i n g motion. M i x f o r a f ew m i n u t e s , t h e n c o o l r a p i d l y t o 30C. E m u l s i o n w i l l i n v e r t t o g i v e a viscous w a t e r - i n - o i l emulsion. F o r m u l a t i o n 5-28

A l l P u r p o s e Cream, _Hand & Body -C_rgam T h i s e m u l s i o n i s s i m i l a r t o t h e 5-28, b u t i s l e s s l i p o p h i l i c I t l e a v e s a smooth, n o n - s t i c k y f e e l t o t h e (more h y d r o p h i l i c ) s k i n and i s e x t r e m e l y m i l d . Pa EL' A

B

I n q r-e-d ie nTJT r a d g Na m g l GTS.P. W h i t e M i n e r a l O i l Cetyl Alcohol Sodium C12-Cl5 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l S - 1 5 0 CGN P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l M e t h y l Paraben D e i o n i z e d Water C o l o r & Perfume

pH: A b o u t 6 . 8 Appearance: Non-pourable,

WLQh 6.0 10.0 4.0 5.0 0.25 74.75 As D e s i r e d

v i s c o u s cream

Procedure: H e a t p a r t A t o 70C, a n d p a r t B t o 75C. Add p a r t A t o p a r t 8 w i t h moderate t o h i g h a g i t a t i o n , i n c l u d i n g s i d e - s c r a p i n g m o t i o n . M i x f o r a f e w m i n u t e s , t h e n c o o l r a p i d l y t o 30C. E m u l s i o n w i l l i n v e r t t o give a viscous water-in-oil emulsion. Formul a t i on 5-47

SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested Formulations

Creams

Oil-in-Water

147

D i m e t h i c o n e Cream

Wt%

Ingredients: A S i l b i o n e o 1 70047/V350*

20.0

B A r l a t o n e 2 21 G1 y c e r o l P r e s e r v a t iv e Water

5.5 4.0 q.s 70.35

C Rhodopol SC*

0.15

Manufacture: 1 . M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2 1 2 1 i n t h e h e a t e d w a t e r phase a t 8OC u n d e r m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogeneous d i e p s e r s i o n i s f o r m e d . 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e h e a t e d aqueous phase a t 75C w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . 3 . Add t h e h e a t e d o i l phase t o t h e aqueous phase u n d e r i n t e n s i v e stirring. 4 . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r one m i n u t e . 5 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . 6 . Add h e a t - s e n s i t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l e s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . Comment: D u r i n g t h e c o o l i n g p r o c e s s ( s t e p 5 ) , when A r l a t o n e 2 1 2 1 e m u l s i o n s t a r t s t o b u i l d up i n t h e l a m e l l a r c r y s t a l l i n e s t r u c t u r e and can r e d u c e t h e f i n a l v i s c o s i t y . The v i s c o s i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n i s i n v e r s e l y p r o p o r t i o n a l t o t h e m i x i n g energy t h a t has been p u t i n t o t h e e m u l s i o n d u r i n g m a n u f a c t u r e . Comments : V i s c o s i t y : 7 8 , 0 0 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e E . Energy i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . *Keltrol

( X a n t h a n Gum,

1NCI)-Kelco

SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u l a t i o n F 4 1 - 5 - 9

1 . 5 rpm)

748

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil-in-Water

N a t u r a l Cream

Ingredients: A Sunflower o i l Anti -oxidant

B A r l a t o n e 2121

wt% 20.0 q.s

G1 y c e r o l Preservative Water

5.5 4.0 q.s. 70.3

C Rhodopol S C *

0.15

Manufacture: 1 . M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t h e h e a t e d w a t e r phase a t 80C u n d e r m o d e r a t e s t i r r i ng u n t i 1 a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s f o r m e d . 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e h e a t e d aqueous phase a t 75C w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . 3 . Add t h e h e a t e d o i l phase t o t h e aqueous phase under i n t e n s i v e stirring. 4 . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 7 5 C f o r one m i n u t e . 5 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . 6 . Add h e a t - s e n s i t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . Comment: D u r i n g t h e c o o l i n g p r o c e s s ( s t e p 5 ) , when A r l a t o n e 2121 e m u l s i o n s t a r t s t o b u i l d up i n t h e l a m e l l a r c r y s t a l l i n e s t r u c t u r e , moderate s t i r r i n g i s recommended. I n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g can b r e a k down t h e l a m e l l a r s t r u c t u r e and can r e d u c e t h e f i n a l The v i s c o s i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i on i s i n v e r s e l y p r o p v i scosi t y o r t i o n a l t o t h e m i x i n g e n e r g y t h a t has been p u t i n t o t h e emulsion d u r i n g manufacture.

.

SOURCE: ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u l a t i o n F 4 1 - 5 - 1 0

Creams

149

O i 1 -in-Water N i a h t Cream Inqredients: A P a r a f f i n o i l perliquidurn* A r l a m o l HD

A r l a m o l M 812 Wheat germ o i l * Vitamin E acetate* A r l a c e l 60 Anti-oxidant B A r l a t o n e 2121

Glycerol Preservatives Water

W B 20.0 10.0 5.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 9.s. 5.5 4.0 q.s. 48.4

C Keltrolw

0.1

D Perfume

q.s.

Manufacture: 1 . M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t h e h e a t e d w a t e r phase a t 80C u n d e r m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s f o r m e d . 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e h e a t e d aqueous phase a t 75C w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . 3 . Add t h e h e a t e d o i l phase t o t h e aqueous phase u n d e r i n t e n s i v e stirring. 4 . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r one m i n u t e . 5 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . 6 . Add h e a t - s e n s i t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . Comment: D u r i n g t h e c o o l i n g p r o c e s s ( s t e p 5 ) , when A r l a t o n e 2121 e m u l s i o n s t a r t s t o b u i l d up i n t h e l a m e l l a r c r y s t a l l i n e s t r u c t u r e , m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g i s recommended. I n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g can b r e a k down t h e l a m e l l a r s t r u c t u r e and can r e d u c e t h e f i n a l v i s c o s i t y . The v i s c o s i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n i s i n v e r s e l y p r o p o r t i o n a l t o t h e m i x i n g e n e r g y t h a t has been p u t i n t o t h e emu1 s i o n d u r i n g m a n u f a c t u r e . P a r a f f i n o i l p e r l i q u i d u m ( M i n e r a l O i l , INC1)-Merck Wheat germ o i 1- S i n e r g a V i t a m i n E a c e t a t e ( T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e , INC1)-Roche K e l t r o l ( X a n t h a n Gum, 1 N C I ) - K e l c o F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-1

*

SOURCE:

ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

150

Cosmetic and To//etryFormulations

011 - 1 n - W a t e r

Volatile Si 1 ?cone_ Cream W_t @&

20.0

5.5

6 A r l a t o n e 2 27 G l ycerol Preservat, e Cldter

4.0 4.5. 70.35

i G h o d o u o l SCX

0.15

Manufacture: : . M i x t h e A t - l a t o r i e 2 1 2 1 i ti t h e I h e a t e d w a t e r p l i a s e a t 80C u n d e r i n l o d e r a t e ti !-r-fily ui-lt-il a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s f o r m e d . 7 . D i s p e l - s e t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i t - I t h e h e a t e d a q u e o u s pi-lase a t 75C v; 3 t k, iniuder a t e st r I- I 1-1 y . 3 . A d d t l i e h e a t e d o i l p h a s e t o t h e aqueous p l i a s e u n d e r i n t e n s i v e 5 t i i-1- I I i LJ . 4 . Uo:iloyei-I-tst! ? l i e n i i x t u i - e i l i t r i - l i ; i v e l y a t 75C f o r o n e i n i n i i t e . 5 , Coo; t o 3 5 C w l l i l s t s i i r r i ~ i ym o d e r a t e ; y . S , Add 17 eat - s ei-ic i t i v e i 1-1 y t- ed i e-1,t 5 i y i i i 1 s t s t i r r i 1-1 g inod e 1- a t e 1 y .

Coniniert t s . D i i r i i - i y t l i e cool i n 9 p r - o i e s i ( s t e p 5 ) wlieii A i - l a t o l i t . 2 1 2 1 eimuisiorl s t a r t s t o t u i ’ ~ d u p it^ t h e ?dine1 i a i c r y s t a 7 i i n e s t t - i i c t u r e ; i i i o d e r a t e s t i i i r i n g i s recomnietided. I n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g c i i i - : b r e a k t i o w t - ~ tl-ii T amiT a r s t i - u i t i ; r e arld chi-) r e d u c e t h e f i )rial u i sc.ijsi i y . S l - ~ e v i s,cos I t y o f t i ? r - f o i - m u l a t i 01-1 i s I nvel-sel y p r o p ort -,, V- I- I C :’ L U - t h e ii.nx-,i-lg r i i e , r p y t 1 : a t h a s beei-1 p u t i i i t o t h e e l i l u l s l o i i d L l i - i i l y iii,>l

>

Energy

i t y . 3 7 , 4 4 0 t-mPa 5 ( B t - u o h f i 6 : ’ d L V T , s p i n d l e E , 1 . j r p m j - r i j p ~ t 1s r e l a t e r i t o T i h a ; f o r n l u l a t i o n v > s c o s i t y .

:i:Rhodopol

SOUiiCE;

SC (Xantl-iat-1 G t m ;

:NCI)-Rhone

Poulenc

i C i S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u i s t i o n F41-5-7

Creams

151

b l i x t h e t \ r i a t o n e 2 1 2 1 i n t h e i - i e a t e d r J a t e r p h a s e a t 8OC u n d e r m o d e r a t e s t i I - r i n g uiit;; a honioyei-ieous d i s p e i s i o n i s f o r m e d . 2 . D i s p e r s e t l h e t i y d r o c o l l o i d i 11 tl-ie h e a t e d aqueous p h a s e a t 75C ~ l t m h o d e r a t e s t i rr-iiny. 3 . Add t h e I-leated o i 1 p h a s e t o t l i e a q u e o u s p l i a s e u n d e r i n t e i - i s i v e I .

.; ,. 8 1.l . Y. 4 . i i o i n o g e i i i s e t h e m i x t u r e i i - l t e i - ~ s i v e l ya t 7 5 C f o r - one n i i l i u t e . 5 . Cool to 3 5 C w h i i s t s t i I - r i n y m o d e r a t e l y . 6 . Add I - i e a t - s e n s i t i v e 1 1 - i y r e d i e i i t s v i l l i 1 s t s t l l - t - i i i g m o d e r a t e l y . .'

Comment; D u r i rig t h e iool i I-iy p r o c e s s ( s t e p 5 ) , V J ~ ~ I - AI-1 I a t o n e 21 21 e m u l s i o n s t a r t s t o build u p i : - i t h e lan-iel7a1- i r y s t a l l i n e s t r u c t t i r e , m o d e r a t e s t i r - I - i n g i s reconriuended. I i - i t e r i s i v e s t i r - r - i i - i ~i a i i b r e a k dovii? t b i e ? a i i i e I l a ~ -s t i u c t u l - e a n d ca1-1 r e d u c e t l i e f i n a l v i s c o s i t y . T h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e foi.iiiu1atioi-1 i s i n v e r 5 e ; y pr opor t i o n a i t o t h e iiii n i riy e l - j e r y y t i t a t h a s b e e r p u t i i - , t o t h e e m u l s i o n d u r i n g ma,-iufactui-e.

Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 6 2 , 4 0 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T , s p - i n d l e E , 1 . 5 rpm) Einercjy i n p u t - 1 5 i - e : a t e d t o f i i - , a : formuiatioii v i s i o s ~ t y .

*Kel t r o l (Xanthai-1 Gum, INC1)-Kelco

SOURCE: iCI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

752

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

mtimal Face Cream

Raw Materials: I. Emulgade SE (Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate) 4.0 Cutina MD (Glyceryl Stearate) 1.0 Lanette 0 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 1.0 0.5 Baysilon M 3 5 0 (Dimethicone) Cetiol PGL (Hexyldecanol (and) Hexyldecyl Laurate) 7.0 Myritol 312 (Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides) 3.0 Cetiol OE (Dicaprylyl Ether) 4.0 Copherol 1250 (Tocopheryl Acetate) 0.5 X1.D-Panthenol Glycerin 86% Water

1.0

5.0 71.5

1II.Carbopol 980 (Carbomer) Cetiol PGL (Hexyldecanol (and) Hexyldecyl Laurate)

0.2 1.0

IV. KOH, 20% Perfume/Preservative

q.s.

0.3

Viscosity: 100,000 Preparation in the Laboratory: Melt the components listed under I at 80-85C and stir until a homogeneous mixture results, Heat the components listed under I1 to 80-85C and add to phase I with stirring/homogenizing. Add phase I11 (Carbopol mixed with oil) into the hot emulsion and homogenise immediately by means of a suitable dispersion unit (Ultra Turrax). Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring in such a way that it remains in continual motion. Avoid the incorporation of air. Add the single components listed under IV at 40C. Allow to cool to 30C.

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Formulation no.: 96/036/2

Creams

R e i u v e n a t i n a S k i n (O/W)

C

r

153

-

I N C I N a m e / T r a d e Name: Phase A : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e , PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 1 6 5 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e / M i r l y o l 318 C e t y l a l c o h o l / C r o d a c a l C-70 L a n o l i n / C o r o n a PNL L a n o l i n PEG-8 ( a n d ) T o c o p h e r o l ( a n d ) A s c o r b y l P a l m i t a t e ( a n d ) A s c o r b i c A c i d (and) C i t r i c Acid/Oxynex K L i q u i d

yt% 10.00 20.00 3.00 3.00 0.05

Phase 8 : Sorbitol/Hystar G1 y c e r i n

CG

Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate W a t e r , demi n e r a l i z e d

2.00 1.20 0.15 0.05 9 , s . t o 100.00

Phase C : Water, L e c i t h i n , D i p a l m i t o y l H y d r o x y p r o l i n e , Phenoxyethanol, T a l l O i l S t e r o l , L i n o l e i c Acid, T o c o p h e r o l , Sodium A s c o r b a t e , M e t h y l p a r a b e n , B u t y l paraben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, M a n n i t o l / ASC I I I / R o n a

4.00

Procedure: H e a t Phase A t o 75C, Phase B t o 8OC. Add Phase B s l o w l y t o Phase A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . H o m o g e n i z e a n d c o o l down w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add Phase C t o 35C. Notes: Viscosity:

2 6 0 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, S p . C ,

SOURCE: R o n a / E M

Industries,

I n c . : F o r m u l a 13-06/K

5 r p m ) a t 24C

154

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shower Cream Concept S t a t e m e n t : A smooth, m o i s t u r i z i n g , p e a r l e s c e n t shower cream w i t h a u n i q u e s i l k y s k i n f e e l f r o m P o l y q u t a 400, Promois S i l k and Promois M i l k .

w?3

Ingr.ed!entsi

1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 31 . 9 0 2 . P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m 10) 1.oo 3. P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 5.00 4 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e 24.00 5 . Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e 24.00 6 . R i t a t a i n e (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 6.40 7. Lauramide DEA 3.00 8 . R i t a EGMS ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ) 2,oo 9 . Promois S i l k - 1 0 0 0 ( H y d r o l y z e d S i l k ) 0.10 1 0 . Promoi s M i 1 k (Hydro1 yzed Casei n ) 0.10 11 . C i t r i c A c i d ( 5 0 % S o l u t i o n ) q.s. 2.00 12.Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n ) 13.Phenoxyethanol 0.50 14. Fragrance q.s. q.s. 15.D&C Red No. 33 q.s. 16.FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m 1 t o 75C. S l o w l y add i t e m s 3 and 12 u n t i l d i s p e r s e d v e r y w e l l . W h i l e m i x i n g , add i t e m s 3 - 8 . A d j u s t p H t o 6 . 5 u s i n g i t e m 1 1 . Cool t o 4 0 C . Add i t e m s 9 , 1 0 , and 1 3 - 1 6 . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 124-296

..t Cream .... -. Emol 1.i..e.n ~

Concept S t a t e m e n t : An e l e g a n t w h i t e , creamy e m u l s i o n i n c o r p o r a t i n g P a t i o n i c SCL, w i t h e x c e l l e n t f e e l amd m o i s t u r i z i n g b e n e f i t s .

5 nsrr_edient_s_.:_

Wt.%

1 . P a t i o n i c SCL (Sodium Cocoyl L a c t y l a t e ) 0. 50 2 . R i t a C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l 50/50 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 .60 3 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 4.00 4. R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 5.00 5 . C a p r i c / C a p r y l ic T r i g l y c e r i d e 10.00 6 . White Petrolatum 5.00 7. G l y c e r i n e 3.00 8 . A c r i t a m e r 501E (Carbomer) (3% aq. s o l n . ) 3.34 9. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 67.06 1 0 . Phenoni p 0 50 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 t o 6 and h e a t t o 8OC. Combine i t e m s 7 t o 9 and h e a t t o 80C. A d j u s t w a t e r phase t o pH o f 6 . 5 . Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Homogenize a t 60-8OC. Cool t o 35C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n and add i t e m 1 0 . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 124-23 I

SOURCE:

R.I.T.A. C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

155

Shower Cream Concept Statement: A smooth, moisturizing, pearlescent shower cream with a unique silky skin feel from Polyquta 400, Promois Silk and Promois Milk. Inaredients: 1. Distilled/Deionized Water 2. Polyquta 400 (Polyquaternium 10) 3. Propylene Glycol 4. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 5. Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate 6. Ritataine (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) I . Lauramide DEA 8. Rita EGMS (Glycol Stearate) 9. Promois Silk-1000 (Hydrolyzed Silk) 10.Promois Milk (Hydrolyzed Casein) 11.Citric Acid ( 5 0 % Solution) l2.Sodium Chloride (25% Solution) 13.Phenoxyethanol 14.Fragrance 15.D&C Red No. 33 16.FD&C Yellow No. 5

wt%

33.90 1.00 3.00 24.00 24.00 6.40 3.00 2.00 0.10 0.10 q.s. 2.00 0.50 q.s. q.s. q.s.

Compounding Procedure: Heat item 1 to 75C. Slowly add items 3 and 12 until dispersed very well. While mixing, add items 3-8. Adjust pH to 6.5 using item 11. Cool to 40C. Add items 9,lO and 13-16. Formulation Ref. No. 124-29C Emollient Skin Cream Concept statement: An elegant, smooth cream formulated with Pationic SBL, to provide natural moisture and softening. Inqredients:

1. Pationic SBL (Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate)

2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Rita Cetearyl Alcohol 50/50 (Cetearyl Alcohol) Rita GMS (Glyceryl Stearate) Rita IPP (Isopropyl Palmitate) Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride White Petrolatum I . Glycerine 8. Distilled/Deionized Water 10.Phenonip

Wt%

1.50 3.00 2.60 5.00 10.00 5.00 3.00 61.40

0.50

Compounding Procedure: Combine items 1 to 6 and heat to 80C. Combine items 7 and 8 and heat to 80C. Add oil phase to water phase while mixing. Homogenize at 60-80C. Cool to 35C with slow agitation and add item 9. Formulation Ref. 124-24 SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp.: Suggested Formulations

756

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

S k i n Cream

Raw Materials: A: Mineral oil Cetyl alcohol Propylene glycol stearate Glyceryl stearate PEG-10 stearate PEG-40 stearate Butylparaben Amihope LL

wt% 19.0 4.0 1.0 3.0

2.0 1.0 0.1 3.0 0.3 5.0

B: Acylglutamate HS-11 Butylene glycol Methylparaben Water

0.2 balance

Procedure: Dissolve ( A ) (disperse Amihope LL) & (B) at 80-85C. Add (B) to (A) with stirring and cool to room temperature with homomixer stirring. Note: Amihope LL provides smooth and silky touch. Acylglutamate HS-11 is used as an emulsifier to stabilize the emulsions. Formula SC-1306 L S k i n Cream

Wt%

Raw Materials: A: Mineral oil #70 IPP Stearyl alcohol Cetyl alcohol Glyceryl stearate Ceteareth-20 Propylparaben

8.0 2.0 2.0 0.5 0.5 1.0 0.1

B: Methylparaben Ajidew N-50 Carbomer 940 (1% solution) Water C: Sodium hydroxide solution (10%)

0.1 4.4 10.0 balance 10.5

Procedure: Heat (A) at 75-80C to dissolve. Heat (B) at 80C. Stir (A) with high speed homomixer and add (B), then add (C) immediately. Stir all ingredients at 3000 rpm for 3 minutes. Cool to room temperature. Formula No. 2L-116

SOURCE: Ajinomoto U . S . A . ,

Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Creams

157

S k i n Cream

Wt%

Raw M a t e r i a l s : A:

Eldew CL-301 Squal ane Hydrogenated c o c o - g l y c e r i d e s Polyglyceryl-2 oleate Polyglyceryl-2 stearate

5.0 (Emalex STG-R)

15.0 4.0 1.o 4.0

0.4 5.0 0.2

8 : A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-I1 B u t y l ene g l y c o l Methyl paraben Water

balance

Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) & ( 8 ) a t 80-85C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h homomixer s t i r r i n g . Note: Eldew CL-301 c o n t r i b u t e s t o i m p r o v e s p r e a d a b i l i t y and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f a cream. I t r e d u c e s s t i c k i n e s s and o c c l u s i v e n e s s o f e m u l s i o n s . A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 w o r k s as an e m u l s i f i e r t o s t a b i l i z e t h e emulsion. Formula No. MC-1

S k i n Cream

________ Raw M a t e r i a1 s : A:

Mineral o i l Cetyl alcohol Propylene g l y c o l s t e a r a t e Glyceryl stearate PEG-I0 s t e a r a t e PEG-40 s t e a r a t e B u t y l paraben Amihope L L

B : A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 Butylene g l y c o l Methyl paraben Water

Wt% 19.0 4.0 1.o

3.0 2.0

1.o 0.1

3.0 0.3 5.0 0.2 balance

Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) ( d i s p e r s e Amihope LL) and (B) a t 80-85C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h homomixer s t i r r i ng. N o t e : Amihope L L p r o v i d e s smooth and s i l k y t o u c h . A c y l g l u t a m a t e i s used as an e m u l s i f i e r t o s t a b i l i z e t h e e m u l s i o n s . F o r m u l a SC-1306L

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

158

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

S k i n Cream

Wt%

Raw M a t e r i a l s : A: M i n e r a l o i l I s o p r o p y l palmi t a t e Stearyl alcohol C e t y l a1 coho1 G l y c e r y l monostearate POE(20) C e t y l e t h e r Propyl paraben

8.0 2.0 2.0 0.5 0.5 1.o 0.1

8:

Prodew 400 Carboxy v i n y l p o l y m e r ( 0 . 5 % a s . ) Water Methyl paraben

C:

Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 % a s . )

4.4 20.0 balance 0.1

4.0

Procedure: D i s s o l v e i n g r e d i e n t s ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g a t 75-8OC. D i s s o l v e i n g r e d i e n t s ( 8 ) a t 80C. M i x ( A ) w i t h homomixer and add (6) t o e m u l s i f y and add ( C ) i m m e d i a t e l y and m i x w i t h 3000 r p m s t i r r i n g f o r 3 minutes. A f t e r e m u l s i f y i n g , c o o l down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Formula 2LP-131 Em011 i e n t Cream Raw M a t e r i a l s : A : Eldew C L- 301 Squal ane Hydrogenated Coco-glycerides Pol y g l y c e r y l - 2 Oleate Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

5.0 0.2 0.4 65.4

B:

Butylene Glycol Methyl paraben Acylglutarnate HS-11 Water F o r m u l a MC-1

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . ,

5.0 15.0 4.0 1.o 4.0

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

159

S o f t Cream

I n q r e d i en t s : A . Arlamol ISML, i s o s o r b i d e monolaurate Stearyl alcohol A r l a m o l E , POP ( 1 5 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r D i m e t h i c o n e , 250 c s . B r i j 700, POE ( 1 0 0 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 72, POE ( 2 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r

1.oo

0.50 2.25 2 -25 88.05 0.40

B . Water Carbomer 934

C.

ydtd

4.00 1.00

Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % aqueous)

0.40

D. P r e s e r v a t i v e

0.10

E.

0.05

Fragrance

Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n : Heat A t o 70C and B t o 72C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add C . Add D b e l o w 5 0 C . Add E a t 35C and add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Comments: T h i s cream has a l o w e m o l l i e n c e . I t i s n o n - g r e a s y and has a very pleasant a f t e r f e e l . I t i s r e l a t i v e l y inexpensive s i n c e i t c o n t a i n s n e a r l y 90% w a t e r . T h i s f o r m u l a i s s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t t h r e e months a t 5C, 40C and 50C and f o r a t l e a s t s i x f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s . E m o l l ie n t S k i n Cream __

_ _ I

Ingredients: WZ% A r l a m o l ISML I s o s o r b i d e L a u r a t e 4.00 1 .oo Stearyl alcohol 1 .oo Arlamol E S i 1 i c o n e o i 1, 350 c s . 0.50 2.25 B r i j 700 S t e a r e t h - 1 0 0 2.25 B r i j 72 S t e a r e t h - 2 B: Water 88.20 Carbomer 9 3 4 0.40 C : Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n , 10% aqueous 0.40 D: P r e s e r v a t i v e q.s. E : Fragrance q.s. P r e p a r a t i on : Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and r e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . F o r m u l a SK-4

A:

SOURCE:

ICI

Surfactants:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

760

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Soft

Cream,

T v p e m

________Raw M a t e r i a1 s : A:

Dehymuls PGPH Lameform TGI Beeswax Isopropyl myri s t a t e M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l 868 Phenoni p Oxynex LM

Wt% 7.00 3.00 5.00 10.00 5.00 5.00 0.30 0.10

B : W a t e r , d i s t i l ed Phenoni p Karion F l i q u d

49.30 0.30 5.00

Glycoderm ( P )

10.00

C:

Manufacture: A : M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 75C. B: B r i n g t o a p p r o x . 75C and add t o A w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. C: S t i r i n . Perfume, r o l l .

__ Raw M a t e r i a1 s : A:

Emulgade SE C e t i o l LC C e t i o l SB 45 L a n e t t e 18 Phenoni p

B: W a t e r , d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p G1 y c e r i n C a r b o p o l 954 C:

KOH 10%

D:

Glycoderm ( P )

wt% 3-00 5.00 2.00 3.00 0.30 71 . 6 0 0.30 3.00 0.30 1.50

10.00

Manufacture: A : M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C. B: B r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C and add t o A w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 50C. C : Add. C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. D: S t i r i n . Perfume, homogenize.

SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Suggested Formulations

Creams

161

L!l tWx3Wistu.r LzLns-.S.kj-n.-Crea.m Formula P r o f i l e : The s y n e r g i s t i c m i x t u r e o f Veegum U l t r a a n d C a r b o p o l w i l l c r e a t e a t h i c k r i c h cream t h a t w i l l h a v e t h e Carbomer f e e l w i t h o u t t h e t a c k . Veegum U l t r a w i l l i m p r o v e s t a b i l i t y a n d m a i n t a i n v i s c o s i t y o f the product through i t s s t a b i l i t y cycle. The e m o l l i e n t s i n t h e o i l p h a s e and h u m e c t a n t s i n t h e w a t e r phase w i l l s u p p o r t l a s t n g r e s i d u a l s k i n f e e l and m o i s t u r i z a t i o n . I n x r e d ie n t s : w.t_o/, A: Water 81.1 Veegum U l t r a ( M a g n e s i u m A l u m i n u m S i l i c a t e ) 0.5 Carbomer (Carb op ol 9 3 4 ) 0.5 8: G l y c e r i n 3.0 2.0 B u t y l e n e G1 y c o l I .o C: C e t y l A l c o h o l G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE ( D e r m a c a r e MS SE) 3.0 5.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Neobee M-5) C12-15 O c t a n o a t e ( F i n e s t e r EH-25) 1.o D i m e t h i c o n e (DC-200 f l u i d - 3 5 0 c t s ) 1.o Steareth-2 ( B r i j 72) 0.83 0.83 Steareth-21 ( 8 r i j 721) D: P r e s e r v a t i v e qs E: F r a g r a n c e qs F: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0.24 C i t r i c Acid A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 6 t - 0 . 3 qs Procedure: S t e p 1 . D r y b l e n d Veegum U l t r a a n d C a r b o p o l 9 3 4 i n P a r t A . ( D r y b l e n d i n g r e d u c e s t h e c l u m p i n g o f C a r b o p o l and a l l o w s f o r t h e s i m u l t a n e o u s i n t r o d u c t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t s ) . S i f t t h e powder i n t o a n e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n t h e w a t e r . Veegum U l t r a w i l l b e c o m p l e t l y h y d r a t e d w i t h i n 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w a b o u t 45 m i n u t e s f o r Carbomer h y d r a t i o n . The a d d i t i o n o f a n y o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum U l t r a a n d w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d b y t h e Magnesium A l u m i n u m S i l i c a t e . S t e p 2 : B e g i n h e a t i n g w a t e r p h a s e i n S t e p 1 t o 70C-75C. S t e p 3 : Once h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s i s c o m p l e t e d , a d d r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s f r o m P a r t B t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 4 : B l e n d o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t C and h e a t t h e o i l p h a s e t o 70C-75C. S t e p 5 : When b o t h p h a s e s a r e a t 70C-75C, a d d o i l p h a s e i n S t e p 4 t o w a t e r phase S t e p 2 . S t e p 6 : C o o l t o 45C. Add P a r t D - P r e s e r v a t i v e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 7 : Add P a r t E - F r a g r a n c e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 8 : C o o l t o 35C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 6 w i t h P a r t F . Product S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LVT: 4 2 5 , 0 0 0 + - 2 5 , 0 0 0 c p s a f t e r 2 4 h o u r s . pH: 5 . 3 - 5 . 9 T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a s t a b l e e m u l s i o n t h a t p a s s e s 3 month s t a b i l i t y a t RT, 5 C , 38C, 50C a n d 3 c y c l e F / T . ~

SOURCE:

R.T,

V a n d e r b i l t Co.,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a No, 469

762

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

__U l t r a - M o i s t u r i z i n s S k i n Cream Formula P r o f i l e : The s y n e r g i s t i c m i x t u r e o f Veegum U l t r a and C a r b o p o l w i l l c r e a t e a t h i c k , r i c h cream t h a t w i l l have t h e g r e a t Carbomer f e e l w i t h o u t t h e t a c k . Veegum U l t r a w i l l i m p r o v e s t a b i l i t y and m a i n t a i n t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e p r o d u c t . The e m o l l i e n t s i n t h e o i l phase and t h e h u m e c t a n t s i n t h e w a t e r phase w i l l s u p p o r t l a s t i n g r e s i d u a l s k i n f e e l and m o i s t u r i z a t i o n . Ingredients: A : Water 81.44 Veegum U l t r a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ) 0.25 Carbomer ( C a r b o p o l 934) 0.25 B: G l y c e r i n 3.0 Butylene Glycol 2.0 C: Cetyl Alcohol 1.o G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE (Dermacare MS SE) 3.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Neobee M-5) 5.0 C12-15 O c t a n o a t e ( F i n e s t e r EH-25) 1.o D i m e t h i c o n e (DC-200 f l u i d - 3 5 0 c t s ) 1.2 S t e a r e t h - 2 ( B r i j 72) 0.83 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 ( B r i j 721) 0.83 D: Preservative qs E: F r a g r a n c e qs F: Triethanolamine 0.2 C i t r i c Acid A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 6 t - 0 . 3 qs Procedure: S t e p 1 : D r y b l e n d Veegum U l t r a and C a r b o p o l i n P a r t A . ( D r y b l e n d i n g r e d u c e s t h e c l u m p i n g o f C a r b o p o l and a l l o w s f o r t h e s i m u l t a n e o u s i n t r o d u c t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t s ) . S i f t t h e powder i n t o an e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n t h e w a t e r . Veegum U l t r a w i l l be h y d r a t e d w i t h i n 1 5 m i n u t e s . A l l o w a b o u t 45 m i n u t e s f o r t h e Carbopol s l u r r y t o h y d r a t e completely The a d d i t i o n o f any o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum U l t r a and w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d b y t h e Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e . S t e p 2 : B e g i n h e a t i n g w a t e r phase i n S t e p 1 t o 70-75C. S t e p 3 : Once t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s i s c o m p l e t e d , add r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s f r o m P a r t B t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 4 : B l e n d o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t C and h e a t t h e o i l phase t o 70-75C. S t e p 5 : When b o t h phases a r e a t 70-75C, add o i l phase i n S t e p 4 t o w a t e r phase S t e p 2 . S t e p 6 : Cool t o 45C. Add P a r t D - P r e s e r v a t i v e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 7 : Add P a r t E - F r a g r a n c e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 8 : Cool t o 35C. A d j u s t pH w i t h P a r t F . P r o d u c t Speci f ic a t ions : V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d L V T D V I I , S p i n d l e #TF @ 0 . 3 RPM: 300,OOOt30,000 c p s a f t e r 24 h o u r s . pH: 5 . 3 - 5 . 9 T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a s t a b l e e m u l s i o n and passes 3 month s t a b i l i t y t e s t i n g a t RT, 5C, 38C, 50C and 3 c y c l e F / T .

w a

.

SOURCE:

R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co.,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a No 474

Creams

163

U1 t r a - M o i s t u r i z i nq S k i n Cream Formula P r o f i l e : The s y n e r g i s t i c m i x t u r e o f Veegum U l t r a a n d C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 1 0 w i l l c r e a t e a t h i c k r i c h cream t h a t w i l l have t h e g r e a t Carbomer f e e l w i t h o u t t h e t a c k . Veegurn U l t r a w i l l i m p r o v e s t a b i l i t y a n d m a i n t a i n t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e p r o d u c t . The e m o l l i e n t s i n t h e o i l phase and t h e humectants i n t h e w a t e r phase w i l l s u p p o r t l a s t i n g r e s i d u a l s k i n f e e l and m o i s t u r i z a t i o n . I n P r e d ie n t s :. Wt% A: Water 81.14 Veegum U l t r a ( M a g n e s i u m A l u m i n u m S i l i c a t e ) 0.5 Carborner ( C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 1 0 ) 0.5 B: G l y c e r i n 3.0 B u t y l ene G l y c o l 2.0 C: Cetyl Alcohol 1.o G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE ( D e r m a c a r e MS S E ) 3.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( N e o b e e M-5) 5.0 1.o C12-15 O c t a n o a t e ( F i n e s t e r EH-25) D i m e t h i c o n e (DC-200 f l u i d - 3 5 0 c t s ) 1.o S t e a r e t h - 2 ( B r i j 72) 0.83 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 ( B r i j 721) 0.83 D: Preservative qs E : Fragrance qs F: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0.2 C i t r i c Acid A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 6 t - 0 . 3 qs Procedure: S t e p 1 : D r y b l e n d Veegum U l t r a a n d C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 1 0 i n P a r t A . (Dry blending a l l o w s f o r t h e simultaneous i n t r o d u c t i o n o f ingredi e n t s , even t h o u g h t h e s e raw m a t e r i a l s do n o t h a v e t o b e added s i m u l t a n e o u s l y ) . S i f t t h e powder i n t o an e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n t h e w a t e r . The Veegum U l t r a a n d C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 1 0 w i l l b e h y d r a t e d w i t h i n 15 minutes. The a d d i t i o n o f a n y o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum U l t r a a n d w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d b y t h e M a g n e s i um A 1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e . Step 2 : Begin h e a t i n g water phase i n Step 1 t o 70C-75C. S t e p 3 : Once t t t e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s i s c o m p l e t e d , a d d r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s f r o m P a r t B t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 4 : B l e n d o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t C and h e a t t h e o i l p h a s e t o 70C-75C. S t e p 5 : When b o t h p h a s e s a r e a t 70C-75C, a d d o i l p h a s e i n S t e p 4 t o t h e w a t e r phase S t e p 2 . S t e p 6 : C o o l t o 45C. Add P a r t D - P r e s e r v a t i v e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 7 : Add P a r t E - F r a g r a n c e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 8 : C o o l t o 35C. A d j u s t pH w i t h P a r t F . Product S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LVT DV I , S p i n d l e #TF @ 0 . 3 RPM: 300,OOOt30,000 cps a f t e r 24 hours pH: 5 . 3 - 5 . 9 T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a s t a b e e m u l s i o r : and p a s s e s 3 month s t a b i l i t y t e s t i n g a t RT, 5C 38C, 50C a n d 3 c y c l e F / T

SOURCE:

R.T. Vanderbilt

Co.,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a No. 4 7 5

164

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Vani s h i na Cream

Wt%

Ingredients: A . Arlamol ISML, i s o s o r b i d e monolaurate Stearyl alcohol Dimethicone, 350 c s . A r l amol E, p o l y o x y p r o p y l ene ( 1 5 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 700, polyoxyethylene ( 1 0 0 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 72, polyoxyethylene ( 2 ) s t e a r y l ether

10.0 4.0 0.5 3.0 2.0 3.0

B . Water S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n USP Carbomer 9 3 4

72.9 4.0 0.2

C.

Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % aqueous)

0.2

D . P r e s e r v a t i ve

0.1

Fragrance

0.1

E.

Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n : Heat A t o 7 0 C and B t o 72C. Add B t o A w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add C . Add D b e l o w 5 0 C . Add E t o 35C and add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . I n t h i s formula Arlamol ISML, i s o s o r b i d e monolaurate i s t h e p r i m a r y e m o l l i e n t complemented b y A r l a m o l E , POE ( 1 5 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r . S t e a r y l a l c o h o l i s t h e v i s c o s i t y b u i l d e r , and s i l i c o n e o i l e l i m i n a t e s " s o a p i n g . " B r i j 7 0 0 , POE ( 1 0 0 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r and B r i j 7 2 , POE ( 2 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r were chosen because o f t h e i r e x c e l l e n t e m u l s i f i e r p r o p e r t i e s f o r Arlamol ISML, i s o sorbide monolaurate. The above f o r m u l a i s s t a b l e a t 5 C , R . T . , and 40C, f o r t h r e e months. I t i s a l s o s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t s i x freeze-thaw c y c l e s . Emol 1 ie n t Cream Ingredi ents: A : A r l a m o l E pop 1 5 s t e a r y l e t h e r A r l a s o l v e 2 0 0 L i q u i d ( 7 2 % a c t i v e ) poe 2 0 i s o h e x a d e c y l ether B r i j 72 poe 2 s t e a r y l e t h e r S t e a r y l a l c o h o l , USP B : Carbomer 9 3 4 Water, d e i o n i z e d C : NaOH (10% w / w aqueous) D : Perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e

W B 20.0 1.1 7.2 2.0 0.2 69.3 0.2 9.s.

Preparation: D i s p e r s e t h e Carborner 9 3 4 i n t h e w a t e r . Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) between 35-4OC. Pour a b o u t 3 5 C . F o r m u l a t i o n AE-16

SOURCE: ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

165

W a t e r - i n - O i 1 Cream Wto/,

Ingredients: A : A r l a c e l 582 Arlatone T A r l a m o l HD M a g n e s i um s t e a r a t e Beeswax C a n d e l i l l a wax Isopropyl myri s t a t e Almond o i l D i m e t h i c o n e 1 0 0 mPa s Oxynex 2 0 0 4 * A e r o s i 1 R972*

2.5 0.5 12.0 0.5 1.5 0.5 6.0 3.0 0.5 0.05 0.5 1.25 1.25 1.5 0.5 q.s. 67.95

B : A t l a s G-2330

P r o p y l ene g l y c o l Glycerol MgS04-7H20 Preservatives Water C:

q.s.

Perfume

Manufacture: 1 . H e a t A a n d B s e p a r a t e l y t o 8OC. 2 . Add B t o A s l o w l y w h i l s t s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . 3 . Homogenise f o r 1 m i n u t e . 4 . C o o l t o 50C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . 5 . Homogenise f o r 1 m i n u t e . 6 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w h i l s t s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Comments : N o t e t h a t t h e e m u l s i o n i s made w i t h a n e x t r e m e l y s m a l l amount o f e m u l s i f i e r . To c o m p e n s a t e f o r t h i s , v e r y i n t e n s i v e h o m o g e n i s a t i o n i s e s s e n t i a l . The s i l i c a i s a d d e d f o r r h e o l o g i c a l p u r p o s e s and i m p r o v e s t h e s k i n - f e e l . V i s c o s i t y : 3 0 0 , 0 0 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T , s p i n d l e F , 1 . 5 r p m ) *Oxynex 2 0 0 4 ( A n t i o x i d a n t p r e p a r a t i o n ) - M e r c k A e r o s i l R972 ( S i l i c a D i m e t h y l S i l y l a t e , I N C 1 ) - D e g u s s a

SOURCE:

ICL Surfactants:

F o r m u l a t i o n F44-12-2

766

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O Basic Cream Raw Materials: A) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Imwitor 780K (Isostearyl Diglyceryl Succinate) Imwitor 928 (Glyceryl Cocoatej Vaseline, white (Petrolatum) Elfacos ST 9 (PEG-45/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer) Elfacos C 26 (Hydroxyoctacosanyl/Hydroxystearate) ~

B ) Preservative Water

Wt9, 7.00 6.00 3.00 9.00 4.00 5.00 q.s.

up to

C) Fragrance

100.00 q.s.

Preparation: (A) is heated up to 75 degrees C. (B) is brought to the same temperature and emulsified into (A). The cream is cooled while stirring, and at about 30 degrees C, the fragrance is added. Formulation 1.2P Skin Protective Cream with Silicone Fluid (With AHA-Ester) Raw Materials: A) Imwitor 370 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Miglyol 8 1 2 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Phenyl Dimethicone B ) Keltrol F (Xanthan Gum) Preservative Water

up to

C) Fragrance

Wt% 8.00 10.00 5.00 0.30 q.s. 100.00 q.s.

Preparation: (A) is heated up to 75 degrees C. ( B ) is stirred together and heated up to the same temperature and emulsified into (A). At about 35 degrees C, (C) is added. Formulation 1.1W SOURCE: Creanova I n c . : Suggested Formulations

Creams

767

W/O Cream with Eldew

Inqredients/Trade Name: Part A: Di-(Cholesteryl, behenyl, octyldodecyl) N-Lauroyl-Lglutamic acid ester/Eldew CL-301 Cetearyl Octanoate C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Phenoxyethanol Tocopheryl Acetate Part B: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Hexyl Laurate Cetyl Dimethicone Part C: Deionized Water Sodium Chloride Glycerin (99.5%) PaGtially Deacetylated Chitin (l.O%)/Marine Dew PC-100 Part D: Methylparaben Butylene Glycol

wt% 2.0 8.0 5.0 0.60 0.05

5.00 2.00 68.55 0.80 5.00 2.00 0.20 0.80

Procedure: Pre-melt Part A at 50C. Add Part B to Part A. Pre-melt Part D by heating to 50C. Add to Part C. Slowly add Part C and D mixture to Parts A and B with high shear mixing. Appearance: White, smooth, shiny lotion pH: 6.00-6.50 Viscosity: 20,000 cps (RVT #6 @ lOrpm @ 25C) Hand Cream Raw Materials: (0)Liquid Paraffin (#70) Cetyl Alcohol Nikkol WCB Isopropyl Myristate Glyceryl Monostearate (Self Emulsifying Type) Polyoxyethylene (20) CetyL Ether

10.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 2.9 2.1

(W) Ajidew N-50 Water Preservative

3.0 67.0

Wt%

q.s.

Procedure: 1. Heat (0) and (W) to 80C. 2 . Add (W) to (0)slowly with stirring 3. Cool to 40C with stirring. pH: 5.2 SOURCE: Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc.: Suggested Formulations

768

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O

Light

Cream

Inaredients: A ) A r l a c e l P - 1 3 5 , PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e A r l a m o l S7, C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) PPG-15 s t e a r y l e t h e r A r l a m o l HD, I s o h e x a d e c a n e C a s t o r wax, H y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l B ) A t l a s G-2330, S o r b e t h - 3 0 MgS04-7H20, M a g n e s i u m s u l f a t e Water Preservative

C)

Perfume

&to/, 4.0 6.0 12.0 2.0 4.0 0.7 71 . 3 q.s.

9,s.

Procedure: H e a t ( A ) a n d ( B ) t o 75C. S l o w l y a d d ( 6 ) t o ( A ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y . Homogenize t h o r o u g h l y f o r 1 m i n u t e . A l l o w t o c o o l t o t45C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogenize t h o r o u g h l y f o r 1 m i n u t e . A l l o w t o cool t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y . Add p e r f u m e a n d a l l o w t o c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Comments : V i s c o s i t y : 4 4 , 0 0 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T / s p i n d l e E/rpm 6 ) F o r m u l a CP 1 1 9 4

W/O

L i a h t Moi s t u r i z i n q Cream 90% I n t e r n a l P h a s e

Ingredients: A ) A r l a c e l P - 1 3 5 , PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e A r l a m o l S7, C y c l o r n e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) PPG-15 s t e a r y l e t h e r A r l a m o l HD; I s o h e x a d e c a n e

B ) A t l a s G-2330, S o r b e t h - 3 0 MgS04-7H20, M a g n e s i u m s u l f a t e Water Preservative

C)

Perfume

1.o 3.0 6.0

4.5 0.8 84.7 q.s. q.s.

Procedure: H e a t ( A ) a n d ( B ) t o 75C t o 85C. S l o w l y a d d ( B ) t o ( A ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Homogenize t h o r o u g h l y f o r 1 m i n u t e . A l l o w t o c o o l t o < 3 5 C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add p e r f u m e . Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 1 1 1 , 5 4 0 ( a f t e r 1 m o n t h ) mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L.VT/spindle E/rpm 1 . 5 ) F o r m u l a CP 1192 SOURCE:

I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Section VI Hair Care Products

169

7 70

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Aerosol Fine Fraqrance Mousse This formula provides a quick breaking foam which elegantly delivers fragrance with a dry talc-like after feel due to the emolliency of Veslan Pa-3 liquid. Cartaretin F-4 provides hair and skin substantivity while Sandoxylate SX-424 contributes fragrance solubilization and fast breaking foam. Inqredients: Wt% Phase A: Sandoxylate SX-424 1.00 Fragrance 1.00 Phase B: Deionized Water 81.10 5.00 Velsan Pa-3 liquid SD-40-2 Alcohol 11.20 Phase C: Cartaretin F-4 0.50 Dimethicone Copolyol 0.20 Procedure: Pre-mix Phase A. In a separate vessel, add ingredients of Phase B, mixing well after each addition. Add Phase A, mix and add Phase C. Adjust pH=7.0 with Citric Acid. Fill cans and charge with propellant. Typical Ratio: Propellant A-46: 4.0% Concentrate: 96.0 Appearance: Clear liquid PH: 7-8 Ref.: CLll-31-1 & CMP-07 Men's Finishing Fraqrance Mousse This formula provides a quick-breaking foam which elegantly delivers fragrance and nice after feel due to the emolliency of Velsan Pa-3 liquid. Cartaretin F-4 provides hair and skin substantivity while Sandoxylate SX-424 contributes fragrance solubilization and fast breaking foam. wt% Inqredients: Phase A: Sandoxylate SX-424 1.00 Fragrance 1.00 Phase B: Deionized Water 81.10 Velsan Pa-3 liquid 5.00 SD-40-2 Alcohol 11.20 Phase C: Cartaretin F-4 0.50 Dimethicone Copolyol 0.20 Procedure: Pre-mix Phase A. In a separate vessel, add ingredients of Phase B, mixing well after each addition. Add Phase A, mix and add Phase C. Adjust pH=7.0 with Citric acid. Fill cans and charge with propellant. Typical Ratio: Propellant A-46: 4.0% Concentrate: 96.0% Appearance: Clear liquid PH: 7-8 Ref: Ctll-31-1 & CMP-08 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations

Hair Care Products

171

Aerosol Fragrance Mousse This formula provides a quick breaking foam which elegantly delivers fragrance and a nice after feel due to the emolliency of Velsan P8-3 liquid. Cartaretin F-4 provides hair and skin substantivity while Sandoxylate 8x3-424 contributes fragrance solubilization and fast breaking foam. CL9-201: Inqredients: Phase A: Sandoxylate SX-424 Fragrance Phase B: Deionized Water Velsan P8-3 liquid SD-40-2 Alcohol Dimethicone Copolyol Phase C: Cartaretin F-4

Wt$

0.60 0.20 85.00 0.60 11.20 0.20 2.20

Procedure: Pre-mix Phase A. In a separate vessel, add ingredients of Phase B, mixing well after each addition. Add Phase A, mix and add Phase C. Adjust pH-7.0 with Citric acid. Fill cans and charge with propellant. Typical Ratio: Propellant A-46: 4.0% Concentrate 96.0% CL9-267: Inuredients: Phase A: Sandoxylate SX-424 Fragrance Phase B: Deionized Water Velsan P8-3 liquid SD-40-2 Alcohol Dimethicone Copolyol

Wt$

0.60 0.20 85.30 2.50 11.20 0.20

Procedure: Pre-mix Phase A. In a separate vessel, add ingredients of Phase B, mixing well after each addition. Add Phase A, mix and add Phase C. Adjust pH-7.0 with Citric acid. Fill cans and charge with propellent. Typical Ratio: Propellant A-46: 10.0% 90.0% Concentrate: SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Ref. CMP-O4/Ref. CL9-201, 267

7 72

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Blow-Dry Stylins Lotion This clear, water white, pump spray provides excellent curl retention and body. Diaformer Z-SM produces a clear, flexible film on the hair. Sandoxylate SX-424 functions as a fragrance solubilizer and Sandopan LS-24 is an excellent hydrotrope.

Wt% Inqredients: Diaformer Z-SM (Methylacrylol Ethyl Betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer) 2.00 80.00 Deionized Water Dow Corning 193 (Dimethicone Copolyol) 0.20 SD 40 Alcohol 17.00 Sandopan LS-24 gel (Sodium Laureth-13 Carboxylate) 0.20 Sandoxylate SX-424 (PPG-2 Isodeceth-12) 0.40 Fragrance and Preservative qs Procedure: Add water to vessel. With mixing, add Dow Corning 193, SD 40 Alcohol, Diaformer Z-SM and Sandopan LS-24 in order. Mix well after each addition. Premix Sandoxylate SX-424 and fragrance. Add to batch with mixing. Add preservative with mixing. Appearance: Clear, water white liquid Formula CHF-lO/REF: CL24-95 Water Based Pump Hair Spray Diahold A-503 requires no neutralization in formulation and its high water compatibility allows formulation of low VOC hair sprays. This water based hair spray uses Diahold A-503 to provide a clear glossy film and a strong hold. Inqredients: Diahold A-503 (AMP-Acrylates Copolymer) Deionized Water Dow Corning 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) Lauramide DEA Glycerine Propylene Glycol Fragrance and Preservative

Wt%

7.00 91.50 0.30 0.30 0.20 0.40 qs

Procedure: Add water to vessel. With mixing, add Dow Corning 190, Lauramide DEA, Diahold A-503, Glycerine, and Propylene Glycol in order. Mix well after each addition. Add Fragrance and Preservative with mixing. Properties: pH: 6.5-7.0 Appearance: Clear, water white liquid Formula CHF-ll/REF: CL24-74 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations

Hair Care Products

173

C l a r i f y i n g and V o l u m i z i n g H a i r Mask Formul a P r o f i1 e : T h i s mask f o r m u l a t i o n i s f o r a l l h a i r t y p e s and t a k e s advant a g e o f t h e a b s o r b i n g and c l e a n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f B e n t o n i t e The e x t r a f i n e g r i n d o f Veegum F i s a m e c h a n i c a l v o l u m i z i n g a i d i n h a i r masks. T h i s f o r m u l a c o n t a i n s g l y c e r i n t h a t w i l l i m p r o v e r e s i d u a l f e e l and i m p r o v e t h e s h i n e o f h a i r . The s u r f a c t a n t a i d s i n t h e r i n s a b i l i t y o f t h e d r i e d mask. Ingredients: A : Water Veegum F (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ) B:

C:

Glycerin Vanclay ( K a o l i n ) T a l c ( C o s m e t i c Grade) Vanseal NALS-30 (Sodium L a u r o y l S a r c o s i n a t e ) Preservative

WtQh 47.8 7.0 5.0

30.0 5.0

5.0 qs

D: Fragrance

qs

E : Triethanolamine C i t r i c Acid

A d j u s t pH t o 6.Ot-0.5

0.2 qs

Procedure: S t e p 1 : S i f t Veegum F i n t o an e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n w a t e r . Veegum F w i l l need a p p r o x i m a t e l y 60 m i n u t e s f o r h y d r a t i o n u s i n g a homogenizer o r up t o 180 m i n u t e s u s i n g a p r o p t y p e m i x e r . A d d i t i o n a l e n e r g y , such a s an i n c r e a s e i n m i x i n g i n t e n s i t y o r w a t e r temperature, w i 1 1 reduce h y d r a t i o n t i m e . The a d d i t i o n o f any o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum F and w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d b y t h e Magnesi um A 1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e . S t e p 2 : Add r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s l i s t e d i n P a r t 6 . S t e p 3 : Add P a r t C - P r e s e r v a t i v e . S t e p 4 : Add P a r t D - F r a g r a n c e . S t e p 5 : A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 w i t h p a r t E . P r o d u c t S p e c i f i c a t i ons : V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d L V T D V I I S p i n d l e #TF I3 0 . 3 RPM: 1,000,OOOt100,000 cps pH: 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a s t a b l e e m u l s i o n t h a t passes 3 month s t a b i l i t y t e s t i n g a t RT, 5 C , 38C, 5 0 C and 3 c y c l e F/T

SOURCE:

R.T.

Vanderbilt Co.,

I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 4 7 3

7 74

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Clear Conditioning Hair F l u j i ( T h i s i s a moderate v i s c o s i t y f l u i d )

Ingredi.ents:.

W_to/,

Phase A : Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Cyclomethicone (Abi EM 9 7 ) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV-20) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Q u a t 3272) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n o l ( a n d ) Dimeth cone ( A b i l OSW 1 2 ) Fragrance Phase B : Water Preservatives Propylene Glycol H e x y l ene G l y c o l Glycerin Sodium C h l o r i d e

2.15 15.20 2.15 1.10 5.40

Q.S. 27.50

Q.S. 38.50 4.00 3.00 1.oo

Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . D e t e r m i n e t h e r e f r a c t i ve i n d e x . 2 . D i s s o l v e t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s and Sodium C h l o r i d e i n t o t h e w a t e r o f Phase B. 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s t o Phase B . D e t e r m i n e t h e refractive index. 4 . Match t h e r e f r a c t i v e i n d e x o f Phase B t o Phase A u s i n g w a t e r o r p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , d e p e n d i n g on t h e d i r e c t i o n needed. 5 . Add Phase B s l o w l y t o Phase A w h i l e h o m o g e n i z i n g . ( A v o i d a i r entrapment).

SOURCE:

G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

I\n.t.-ida.ndruff-!ai~r..Toni.c

L_n_SLred.~..ent x

O c t o p i r o x ( P i r o c t o n e 01 ami n e ) Ethyl alcohol C: Fragrance Emulsogen E L (PEG-36 C a s t o r O i l ) D : Water Genami n K S L (PEG-5 S t e a r y l Ammoni urn L a c t a t e ) D-Panthenol E: C i t r i c a c i d - - - - - > p H 5 . 0 - 6 . 0

A: B:

Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e A i n B. 3. S t i r m i x t u r e D i n t o 2 .

wt.?!Q

0.10 35.00 0.30 0.60 63.20 0.30 0.50 q.s.

2 . S t i r 1 i n t o mixture C. 4. F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e pH w i t h E .

SOURCE: Hoechst A k t i e n g e s e l l s c h a f t : F o r m u l a B III/3006

Ha/r Care Products

775

C l e a r C o n d i t i o n j n g Hair_.Gel -~ I n g r e d ie n t s;

Wt%

Phase A : 2.00 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l EM 9 7 ) 14.00 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 2.20 P h e n y l T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 AV-20) 0.80 Q u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone 5.00 ( A b i l OSW 1 2 ) Q.S. Fragrance Phase B : 28.20 Water Q.S. Preservatives 40.00 P r o p y l ene G 1 y c o l 4.00 Hexylene G l y c o l 3.00 Glycerin Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.80 Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . D e t e r m i n e t h e r e f r a c t i v e index. 2 . D i s s o l v e t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s and Sodium C h l o r i d e i n t o t h e w a t e r o f Phase B . 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s t o Phase B . D e t e r m i n e t h e r e f r a c t i v e index. 4 . M a t c h t h e r e f r a c t i v e i n d e x o f Phase B t o Phase A u s i n g w a t e r o r p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , d e p e n d i n g on t h e d i r e c t i o n needed. 5 . Add Phase B s l o w l y t o Phase A w h i l e h o m o g e n i z i n g . ( A v o i d a i r entrapment). SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s Cream R i n s e Raw M a t e r i a l s : A : Genamin EQ H o s t a c e r i n T-3 (Ceteareth-3) Cetyl dlcohol Jojoba o i l B: W a t e r Panthenol P r e s e r v a t i ve C: Fragrance Dyestuff solution D: C i t r i c acid----->pH 4.0 Procedure: 1 . M e l t A a t 75C. 2 . H e a t B t o 75C. 2. S t i r 2 i n t o 1. 4. S t i r u n t i l c o o l . 5 . A t c a . 40C a d d t h e c o m p o n e n t s o f C t o 4 . 6 . F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e pH w i t h D. SOURCE: H o e c h s t A k t i e n e s e l l s c h a f t :

Formula B

II/1061

WtOh 2.00 1 .oo 1 .50 1 .50 93.20 0.50 9,s. 0.30 q.s. 9,s.

I76

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

C l e a r E x t r a C o n d i t i o n i n g H a i r Gel Wt% Ingredients: Phase A : 2.00 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 EM 9 7 ) 17.00 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 B 8839) 2.50 P h enyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 AV-20) 1 .50 Q u a t e r n i um-80 ( A b i l Q u a t 3 2 7 2 ) Cyclomethicone (and) Dirnethiconol (and) Dimethicone 6.50 ( A b i l OSW 1 2 ) 0.50 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) Q.S. Fragrance Phase B : 31 . O O Water Q.S. Preservatives 31 . O O P r o p y l ene G1y c o l 4.00 Hexylene G l y c o l 3.00 Glycerin 1 .oo Sodium C h l o r i d e Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . D e t e r m i n e t h e r e f r a c t i v e index. 2 . D i s s o l v e t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s and Sodium C h l o r i d e i n t o t h e w a t e r o f Phase 5 . 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s t o P h a s e B . D e t e r m i n e t h e r e f r a c t i v e in d e x . 4 . M a t c h t h e r e f r a c t i v e i n d e x o f Phase B t o Phase A u s i n g w a t e r o r p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , depending on t h e d i r e c t i o n needed. 5 . Add P h a s e B s l o w l y t o P h a s e A w l i i l e h o m o g e n i z i n g . ( A v o i d a i r entrapment). SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a

Cream R i n s e Raw M a t e r i a l s . : A : Genamin STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u r n C h l o r i d e ) H o s t a c e r i n DGS ( P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e ) Cetyl stearyl alcohol Mineral oi 1, high viscosity 8: Water Preservative C: Fragrance D y e s t u f f s o l u t i on D : C i t r i c acid----->pH 4.0 1 . M e l t A a t c a . 75C. 2 . H e a t B t o c a . 75C. 3. S t i r 2 into 1. 4. S t i r unti 1 cool. 5 . A t c a . 35C a d d t h e c o m p o n e n t s o f C t o 4 . 6 . F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e pH w i t h D .

SOURCE:

Hoechst A k t i e n g e s e l l s c h a f t :

F o r m u l a B II/1057

w t ?h 2.50 2,oo 3.20 1 .oo 91 . o c q.s. 0.30 9,s. Q.S.

Hair Care Products

177

Cl.earG.el ~ . A . GiLE&Q.Ef t c O_Cs!!Li ene_r_ T h i s i s a c l e a r r i n s i n g c u r l a c t i v a t o r used t o b r i n g o u t t h e n a t u r a l c u r l of t h e h a i r . I t a l s o c o n t a i n s h u m e c t a n t s , d e t a c k i f i e r s and c o n d i t i o n e r s . I ngyed1-e n_t

s: Phase A : Water Carbomer 940 Triethanolamine

57.65 0.50 2.25

Phase B: G1 y c e r i n Propylene Glycol D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8851) Q u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i l Quat 3 2 7 2 )

32.20 5.00 1 .oo 1.oo 0.40

WtO%

Phase C : Color, Fragrance, Preservative

Q.S

Procedure: D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer i n t o t h e w a t e r and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y c l e a r . Add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and m i x w e l l . M i x Phase B and add s l o w l y t o Phase A w h i l e m i x i n g . Add Phase C w i t h m i x i n g . E t h n i c H a i r Care Extra Conditioning Conditioner I n g c e d i e-nts: Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone ( A b i 1 OSW 12) Cyclomethicone Isohexadecane o r M i n e r a l O i l O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) Octyl Stearate (Tegosoft 0 s ) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l A V 2 0 ) Q u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i l Quat 3474) Procedure: Combine a l l

SOURCE:

ingredients i n order with mixing.

G o l d s c h r n i d t Chemical C o r p . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Wt%

50.0 30.5 8.0 3.0 3.0 5.0 0.5

7 78

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Clear Silicone Hair Gel

Wt%

Inqredients: Oil Phase: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (Abil EM-90) Cyclomethicone Isopropyl Myristate (Tegosoft M) Cetyl Dimethicone (Abil Wax 9801) Dimethicone (50 cs) Water Phase: Water Propylene Glycol Sodium Chloride Preservatives

1.60 7.20 3.60 1.80 1.80 39 .OO 42.50 2.50 Q.S.

Procedure: 1. Mix the ingredients of the oil phase and the water phase separately at room temperature. 2. Measure the refractive indices of each phase. These must be identical to achieve optimum clarity. If necessary, adjust the refractive index of the water phase with additional propylene glycol. 3. Add the water phase to the oil phase slowly with strong sheer. Mix until water phase is fully dispersed. SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulation Cream Rinse Raw Materials: A: Genamin K S L (PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Lactate) Hostaphat K L 340 N (Trilaureth-4 Phosphate) Cetylstearyl alcohol Mineral oil, high viscosity

B: Water Preservative C: Fragrance Dyestuff solution

D: Citric acid-----> pH 4.0 Procedure: 1. Melt A at ca. 75C. 2. Heat B to ca. 75C. 3. Stir 2 into 1. 4. Stir until cool. 5. At ca. 35C add the components of C to 4. 6. Finally adjust the pH with D. SOURCE: Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft: Formula B II/1049

Wt%:

6.00 1.50 3.80 2.00

86.40 q.s.

0.30 q.s. q.s

Hair Care Products

179

Creme- R i n s e

wt./,

Ingredients : Water Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Glycol D i stearate Cetyl Alcohol Monaquat TG Phosphol 1 p i d EFA M o n a s i l PDM Oleic Acid

86.80 0.70 2.00 2.50 6.70 0.30 0.96 0.04

Procedure: Charge w a t e r , c a r e f u l l y add N a t r o s o l 2 5 0 HHR w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 50-60C and add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g t o 70C. Cool t o 45C and a d j u s t pH t o 4 . 5 - 5 . 0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e s a s r e q u i r e d . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n and c o o l i n g u n t i l p e a r l d e v e l o p s . Formulation Properties: P H y s i c a l Appearance: W h i t e p e a r l e d l o t i o n F o r m u l a t i o n F-703 C l e a r -Gej

H a i r C o n d i t i o n i n g Rinse

w t 56

I n s r e d 1 en t s : Water Monafax MAP-230 M o n a t e r i c LMAB Monaquat I S I E S

87.90 4.10 7.15 0.85

Procedure: B l e n d i n o r d e r l i s t e d a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , a d j u s t t o pH 7 , add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , p r e s e r v a t i v e , and package. Appearance: C l e a r v i s c o u s l i q u i d F o r m u l a t i o n F-680 Ha? _r Condi t i qn3-r

Innr%d?.e_n_f

s_:

0.5% H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n water Cetyl Alcohol M o n a s i l PLN

Wt% 93.0

3.0 4.0

V i s c o s i t y : 2 0 0 0 cps Opaque V i scous L i q u i d Procedure: H y d r a t e HEC i n w a t e r , t h e n add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h s u f f i c i e n t h e a t t o m e l t c e t y l a l c o h o l . Add f r a g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e , and t h e n package. Formul a t ion F-684

SOURCE:

Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

780

Cosmebc and Todetry Formulabom

Creme R i n s e Inqredi ent_s Water Hydroxyethyl Cellulose G1 y c o l D i s t e a r a t e Cetyl Alcohol Monaquat S L - 5 Phosphol 1 p i d EFA M o n a s i l PDM Oleic Acid

Wt% 86.80 0.70 2.00 2.50 6.70 0.30 0.96 0.04

Procedure: Charge w a t e r , c a r e f u l l y add N a t r o s o l 2 5 0 HHR w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 5 0 - 6 0 C and add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g t o 70C. Cool t o 45C and a d j u s t pH t o 4 . 5 - 5 . 0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n and c o o l i n g u n t i l p e a r l d e v e l o p s . P h y s i c a l Appearance: W h i t e p e a r l e d l o t i o n F o r m u l a t i o n F-708

Hair_

Rel-aax-er

Ingredients.:

Wt%

Part A: Phosphol i p l d S V Propylene Glycol 45% KOH Water

3.0 3.0 5.0 50.0

P a r t 8: Cetyl Alcohol Monafax MAP 160 Petrolatum Mineral O i l M o n a s i l PCA

4.0 3.0 20.0 10.0 2.0

Procedure: Heat A & B s e p a r a t e l y t o 65C. S l o w l y add B t o A w i t h homogeni z a t i o n a n d c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g f o r an a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e . S t i r c o o l t o 40-45C, add f r a g r a n c e and p a c k a g e . T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es : V i s c o s i t y : 400,000 CP pH: 13 F o r m u l a t i o n F-706

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

181

Creme Rinse Inqredient: Water Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Glycol Distearate Cetyl Alcohol Monaquat TG Phospholipid EFA Monasil PDM Oleic Acid

ky& 86.75 0.70 2.00 2.50 6.70 0.30 1.00 0.05

Procedure: Charge water, carefully add Natrosol 250 HHR with good agitation. Heat to 50-60C and add remaining ingredients and continue heating to 70C. Cool to 45C and adjust pH to 4.5-5.0 with 50% citric acid. Add color, fragrance and preservative as required. Continue agitation and cooling until pearl develops. Formulation Properties: Physical Appearance: Pearlescent pearled lotion Monasil PCA Hair Relaxer

wt%

Inqredients: Part A: Phospholipid SV Propylene Glycol 45% KOH Water

3.0 3.0 5.0 50.0

Part B: Cetyl Alcohol Monafax MAP 160 Petrolatum Mineral Oil Monasil PCA

4.0 3.0 20.0 10.0 2.0

Procedure: Heat A & B separately to 65C. Slowly add B to A with homogenization and continue blending for an appropriate time. Stir cool to 40-45C, add fragrance and package. Typical Properties: Viscosity: 400,000 cP/pH: 13 SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations

782

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

E t h n i c .H . a i r Care -. A m p h o t e r i c Shampoos (Cold Process) C1 e a r 1.n.g r edienLs:. T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Water Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e PEG-I8 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 171) D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9 9 5 0 ) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l P u a t 3272) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F ) C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n ) Fragrance Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y )

VitA 0.1 51 , 1 20.0 2.0 0.5 0.3 0.5 0.5 25.0 t o pH 6

Q.S. Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . Mix i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . 2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .

Pearl-ed

1 nsred l.ents:_ T e t r a s o d i urn EDTA Water Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 171) D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9 9 5 0 ) Q u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i l Quat 3272) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne (Tego B e t a i ne F ) C i t r i c A c i d (2590 S o l u t i o n ) Fragrance G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r e t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 1 0 0 ) Sodium C h l o r i d e ( 2 5 % S o l u t i o n t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y )

Wt%

0.1 48.1 20.0 2.0 0.5 0.3 0.5 0.5 25.0 t o pH 6

Procedure: 1 . Mix i n g r e d i e n t s i n order. 2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Q.S. 3.0

Q.S.

Hair Care Products

183

Ethnic Hair Glosser/Extra Conditionins T h i s w a t e r - i n - o i l f o r m u l a based on a s i l i c o n e p o l y m e r i c e m u l s i f i e r i s d e s i g n e d f o r use as a l e a v e i n c o n d i t i o n e r t o g i v e g l o s s and body e s p e c i a l l y f o r h a i r w h i c h has been chemi c a l l y treated. Inqredie n t s l Phase A : O i l Phase: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol ( A b i l EM-90) Petrolatum Mineral O i l C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P ) Lanolin O i l Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l A V 2 0 ) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474) Phase B: Fragrance

Wt%

~

2 .o 6.0 10.0 2.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.0 0.5

Q.S.

Phase C : Water Phase: Water Sodium C h l o r i d e G1 y c e r i n P r e s e r v a t ives

64.3 0.7 3.0 Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . B l e n d t h e components o f Phase A t o g e t h e r - - h e a t i n g t o 50C. Mix u n t i l f u l l y dispersed. 2 . Cool t o 40-45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n - add f r a g r a n c e . 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m i x t h e components t o Phase C t o g e t h e r . 4 . Add Phase C t o Phase A / B s l o w l y w i t h s l o w l i g h t n i n g m i x . M i x u n t i l a l l w a t e r i s i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e o i l phase. 5 . Homogeni z e . E t h n i c Pump S p r a v C o n d i t i o n e r Ingredients: Water Propylene Glycol G1 y c e r i n D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) Panthenol Tocopherol A c e t a t e ( V i t a m i n E ) P r e s e r v a t i ves Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Wt% 82.2 7.5 7.5 2.0 0.5 0.2 0.1

Q.S.

184

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

H a i r Brushing L o t i o n Raw M a t e r i a l s : A: Amihope LL POE ( 2 0 ) s o r b i t a n m o n o l a u r a t e P y r o t e r GPI-25 Propylene g l y c o l B: Stearyl alcohol C a r b o p o l 941 ( 0 . 5 w t % s o l u t i o n ) Water Preservatives

Wt% 0.5 1.5 1. o 2.0 0.5 15.0 balance 0.2 0.2 5.0

C: Prodew 100 o r 2 0 0 Ethanol

Procedure: M i x ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s and add (6) t o ( A ) . Heat up t o 70-80C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool down t.he m i x t u r e t o 50C and add ( C ) , t h e n c o o l down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . NOTE: N o n - c a t i o n i c a n t i s t a t i c f o r m u l a t i o n . Smooth combing o b t a i n e d d u e t o t h e l u b r i c i t y o f Amihope LL. Formul a BR-02 Hai r L o t i o n _____ Raw M a t e r i a l s : G l y c e r e t h - 2 5 PCA I s o s t e a r a t e ( P y r o t e r GPI-25) PEG-40 H y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l PCA I s o s t e a r a t e ( P y r o t e r CPI-40) Octyldodecanol

A:

1.2 3.5 0.1 1.5 5.0 9.s. balance

B: Prodew 400 1 ,3-Butylene g l y c o l Methyl paraben Water C:

Wt%

10.6 0.6 q.s.

Ethanol Carboxymethyl c e l l u l o s e Perfume

Procedure: M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s ( A ) and ( B ) a t 60-70C w i t h s t i r r i n g r e s p e c t i v e l y . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add Carboxymethyl c e l l u l o s e and c o o l t o 40C. Add e t h a n o l and p e r f u m e and c o o l w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 30C. f o r m u l a HLP-141

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

185

H - ~ i ~ ~ ~ n . d _ i t l . . ~ ~ ~ . . _ ~ ~ t ~ - o - ~ T h i s l o t i o n i s t y p i c a l o f a modern r i n s e - o f f f o r m u l a b u t has e x c e l l e n t freeze-thaw s t a b i l i t y . Ingredients: A B r i j 721 Cetyl alcohol Stearyl alcohol S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e 8 Water,

deionized

0.6 0.5 96.7

P r e p a r a t ion : Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Cool w h i l e a g i t a t i n g t o 40C. R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and package. F o r m u l a HC-10

Haj-i_r_ Co.~dit-ign e r -Ge 1 D e m o n s t r a t e s t h e use o f F o r e s t a l l i n a s u r f a c t a n t g e l w h i c h w o u l d be a good h a i r d r e s s i n g . The f o r m u l a i s a c l e a r ( m i c r o emulsion), " r i n g i n g " g e l . I_nar ed Le-nL s_ : A Mineral o i l A r l a s o l v e 200L I s o c e t e t h - 2 0 E r i ] 93 O l e t h - 2

W t% 11 . o 27.8 6.0

B Water Propylene g l y c o l Sorbitol Solution, Forestal 1

41 . 8 5.0 7.0 1.4

USP

Preparation : Heat ( A ) and ( 8 ) t o 9OC. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 8OC and add make-up w a t e r . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and p o u r while s t i l l f l u i d . F o r m u l a HC-11

SOURCE:

ICI

S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

186

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Dressinq W/O Cold Process Inqredients: Wt% Phase A: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (Abil EM-90) 2.0 Mineral Oil 7.3 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (Tegosoft CT) 3.0 Cetyl Dimethicone (Abil Wax 9801) 1.0 Cyclomethicone 5.0 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan GI 34) 1.0 Cetearyl Isononanoate (Tegosoft CI) 1.5 Cetyl Octanoate (Tegosoft CO) 0.8 Quaternium-80 (Abil Quat 3272) 0.5 Fragrance Q.S. Phase B: Water 72.9 Propylene Glycol 3.0 Glycerin 1.2 Sodium Chloride 0.8 Preservatives Q.S. Procedure: 1. Mix the ingredients of Phase A together. 2. Dissolve the Sodium Chloride into the water. Add the Glycerin and Propylene Glycol. Mix until clear. 3 . Add the preservatives. 4 . Add Phase B to Phase A slowly with soft propeller mixing. Maintain, at all times, a creamy appearance. 5. Homogenize. Ethnic Hair Care Leave-In Moisturizinq/Sheen Inqredients: Wt% Phase A: 0.1 Tetrasodium EDTA 77.9 Water 2.0 Oleth-20 3.0 Dimethicone Copolyol (Abil B 88183) Quaternium-80 (Abil Quat 3272) 0.5 Glycerin 15.0 Phase B: PEG-30 Glyceryl Laurate (Tagat L) 1.5 Fragrance Q.S. Preservative Q.S. Procedure: 1. Add the water, Oleth-20, heat to 40C. Mix until clear. 2. Add the remaining ingredients of Phase A mixing each until clear. 3 . Add the fragrance to the Tagat L. Mix well - add to Phase A. 4. Cool with mixing - add preservatives. SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggeeted Formulation8

Hair Care Products

187

H a i r Relaxers These f o r m u l a t i o n s f o r a h a i r r e l a x e r g i v e a s t a b l e composit i o n w i t h a v e r y d e s i r a b l e c o n s i s t e n c y . They can be e a s i l y worked t h r o u g h t h e h a i r and w i l l r e m a i n u n t i l r e a c t e d . The p r o d u c t s are extremely m i l d w i t h minimal s k i n i r r i t a t i o n . H a i r R e l a x e r D-51 ~

Part: A

6

Wt% 23.0 14.0 5.5 0.1 5.5

_ I n. gredient/Trade

Name.; P e t r o l a t u m (USP) Mineral O i l Cetearyl Alcohol T e t r a s o d i u m E D T A , 40% Propylene Glycol Sodium C12-Cl5 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e / Avanel S-150 CGN PEG 6 0 L a n o l i n Sodium H y d r o x i d e , 50% H y d r o l i zed Animal P r o t e i n / L e x e i n QX 300 Perfume Dei o n i zed Water

3.65 0.25 4.1 0.25 0.1 43.55

2 5 : H a i r Relaxer D

-_ Part: A

B

I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: P e t r o l a t u m (USP) Mineral O i l Cetearyl Alcohol T e t r a s o d i um E D T A , 40% P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Sodium C12-Cl5 P a r e t h - 3 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l PEG 60 L a n o l i n Sodi um H y d r o x i d e , 50% H y d r o l ized Animal P r o t e i n / L e x e i n QX 3 0 0 Perfume D e i o n i z e d Water

S-30

W t l 23.0 14.0 5.5 0.05 5.5 3.65 0.25 4.1 0.25 0.1 43.55

Procedure: Heat t h e p e t r o l a t u m t o 80C and add t h e m i n e r a l o i l . C o n t i n u e h e a t i n g w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . When t h e p e t r o l a t u m i s c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d , add t h e c e t e a r y l a l c o h o l . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 80C and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g . To t h e d e i o n i z e d w a t e r , add t h e t e t r a sodium EDTA, p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , Avanel s-150 CGN o r 5-30 and PEG 60 l a n o l i n w i t h m i x i n g . H e a t t o E O C . W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t A t o P a r t B. S t i r f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 40C. Add t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e , a n i m a l p r o t e i n and p e r f u m e . (NOTE: A t t h i s s t a g e , t h e f o r m u l a i s s e p a r a t e d and r e s e m b l e s c o t t a g e c h e e s e . T h i s will b e c o r r e c t e d as t h e b a t c h i s f i n i s h e d . ) M i x t h e b a t c h w h i l e c o o l i n g t o a t e m p e r a t u r e o f a b o u t 20C u s i n g an e x t e r n a l i c e b a t h . The s i d e s o f t h e v e s s e l must b e f r e e d o f p r o d u c t while mixing.

SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s D-51 and D-52

188

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair and Scalp Conditioner This conditioner leaves the hair with a shine and softness, while providing the moisturization needed by both the hair and scalp. Sequence: 1 2 2

3 3 3

4 4 4 4

4 4 4 4

Raw Material/INCI Name: Deionized Water

wt%

58.70

Keltrol/Xanthan Gum Veegum/Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

0.15 0.15

Uniphen P-23 Lipamide MEAA (75%)/Acetamide MEA Liponic EG-l/Glycereth-26

0.50 1.00 1.00

Ultrapure L/White Petrolatum USP Avocado Oil Lip0 GMS 450/Glyceryl Stearate Lipopeg 6000 DS/PEG-150 Distearate Lipowax P/Emulsifying Wax, NF Lipocol C/Cetyl Alcohol Lipolan R/Lanolin Oil Lipovol MOS-70*

8.00 12.00 1.50 1.00 0.50 0.50 5.00 10.00

*Patent #4,659,573 Procedure: 1. Mix Sequence #1 on overhead mixer while heating to 78C. 2. Dry mix Sequence # 2 ingredients and add slowly to Sequence #1 at 78C with medium agitation. Mix until completely hydrated. 3. Add Sequence #3 to batch in order of addition, while holding temperature at 78C. 4. Mix Sequence #4 together while heating to 8OC until completely melted and add to batch at medium speed. Cool to 60C. 5. At 60C, switch to sweep blade and mix at low speed. Cool to 25C. Specifications: pH: 6.33+-0.2 Viscosity: LVT-F @ 1.5 rpm=185,00 cps +-lo% SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals Inc.: Formulation No. 1016

Hair Care Products

189

H a i r S t y l i n g Cream w i t h N a t u r a l O i l s & C o n d i t i o n e r s T h i s s t y l i n g cream c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l o i l s t o p r o v i d e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n and s h i n e . T h i s l i g h t e m u l s i o n can be used t o s t y l e and d e f i n e h a i r w i t h o u t l e a v i n g a heavy g r e a s y f e e l . T h i s f o r m u l a also contains cationic conditioners t o provide excellent s t a t i c c o n t r o l and f e e l , and a s u n s c r e e n t o h e l p p r o t e c t t h e h a i r f r o m UV damage. I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Wt% Part A: 1 . Meadowfoam Seed Oil/EmCon L i m n a t h e s A l b a 3.00 3.00 2 . A p r i c o t Kernel Oil/Super Refined A p r i c o t Kernel O i l 3 . Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 556 F l u i d 2,oo 4 . C12-15 A1 k y l B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v T N 2.00 5 . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e / C e r a s y n t SD 2.00 6 . O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Neo H e l i o p a n A V 4.00 7 . T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e / R a d i c a l Scavenger V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e 0 . 5 0 8 . Acrylates/C10-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e s Crosspolymer/ Pemulen TR-1 0.25 9 . Carbomer/Carbopol U l t r e z 1 0 0.15 Part 8: 1 0 . D e i o n i z e d Water 78 92 1 1 . P V P ( 1 0 0 % ) / L u v i s k o l K9O Powder 1.oo 13. T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (99%) 0.38 Part C: 14. PEG-20 Almond G l y c e r i d e s / C r o v o l A-40 0.20 1 5 . L i no1 eami d o p r o p y l P G - D i moni um Chl o r i de Phosphate/ Phosphol ip i d €FA 0.30 1 6 . Cocodimonium H y d r o x y l p r o p y l H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n / H y d r o t r i t i c u m PM 0.30 1 7 . F r u i t y F l o r a l F r a g r a n c e / F r a g r a n c e #A42017 1.oo 18. Propylene G l y c o l (and) Methylparaben (and) P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germaben I I E 1 .oo P r o p e r t i es : Appearance: T h i c k , g l o s s y , creamy e m u l s i o n pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 20,000-40,000 P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: 1 . P a r t A : Combine a l l o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t m i x t u r e t o 60-65C, m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . D i s p e r s e Pemulen TR-1 and C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 1 0 p o l y m e r s i n o i l p h a s e . M i x u n t i l powders a r e d i s p e r s e d we1 1 2 . P a r t 8 : D i s p e r s e PVP K-90 i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r (55-6OC). M i x u n t i l p o l y m e r i s h y d r a t e d . Add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o s o l u t i o n . 3 . Add P a r t A t o P a r t B . B o t h phases s h o u l d b e a t 55-6OC. M i x u n t i l no lumps r e m a i n and b a t c h i s u n i f o r m , m a i n t a i n i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 55-6OC. 4 . P a r t C : Add C r o v o l A-40 t o b a t c h . NOTE: B a t c h may i n v e r t t o a w a t e r i n o i l e m u l s i o n ( b a t c h w i l l l o o k c u r d l e d ) . Keep m i x i n g and c o o l b a t c h t o 40-45C. Keep m i x i n g u n t i l b a t c h r e i n v e r t s t o an o i l - i n - w a t e r e m u l s i o n ( e x t r a s h e a r a g i t a t i o n may b e n e c e s s a r y i f t h e b a t c h has s t i l l n o t r e i n v e r t e d a t 40C) 5 . P a r t C : A f t e r t h e b a t c h has c o o l e d t o 40-45C and i n v e r s i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x t i 1 u n i f o r m . SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n PO048 I

I

790

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Stvlinq Gel Diaformer 2-301 provides excellent hold, clear films, and does not flake. This water white, clear formulation has good viscosity initially and over time. This formula can be easily removed from the hair by shampooing. Inqredients: Wt$ Deionized Water 95.75 Carbopol 941 (Carbomer 941) 0.40 Triethanolamine 99% 0.40 Diaformer 2-301 (Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer ) 3.35 Fragrance and Preservative qs Procedure: Add Carbopol 941 to water and mix until a homogeneous viscous liquid develops. Add Triethanolamine to neutralize the Carbopol 941. Mix well. Add Diaformer 2-301 and other ingredients one at a time mixing well after each additiion. Adjust pH as desired. Properties: Appearance: Water white, clear gel pH: 6.0 Viscosity: 12,500-13,000 cps Formula CHF-l6/REF: CL24-101 Hard Hold Hair SDray This hard hold hair spray uses Diaformer Z-AT for its excellent curl retention and hold. Diaformer Z-AT also helps to reduce static and improve manageability when the hair is combed. This formulation also meets 80% VOC requirements by incorporating almost 13% water. Inqredients: Diaformer Z-AT (Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer) Deionized Water Dow Corning 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) SD 40 Alcohol Lauramide DEA Fragrance and Preservative

Wt$

17.50 12.70 0.10 69.50 0.10 qs

Procedure: Add Diaformer Z-AT to the alcohol mixing well. Add water with mixing. Add remaining ingredients one at a time with mixing. Appearance: Clear, slightly yellow liquid Formula CHF-l7/REF: CL27-35 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations

Hair Care Products

191

H a i r S t v l i n a Gel I l l u s t r a t e s a h a i r s t y l i n g g e l based on a Carbomer r e s i n and polyvinylpyrrolidone.

wts/o

Ingredients: A C a r b o m e r 940 S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP SDA-40 E t h a n o l , 2 5 % aqueous

B A r l a s o l v e 200 L i q u i d / G e l W a t e r / d e n a t u r e d a l c o h o l , SDA F o r m u l a No. 40, Weight % m i x t u r e V i n y l p y r r o l id o n e / v i n y l a c e t a t e c o p o l y m e r Triethanolamine Perfume

0.33 2.00 72.85

0.40 75/25 23.07 1.oo 0.35 q.s.

P r e p a r a t i on : P a r t ( A ) : Mix S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n w i t h water/alcohol b l e n d . D i s p e r s e Carbomer 940 i n t h e S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n w a t e r / a l c o h o l b l e n d u s i n g h i g h speed p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . A l l o w t h e a i r bubbles t o d i sperse. P a r t ( 8 ) : Add t h e A r l a s o l v e 2 0 0 L i q u i d / G e l t o t h e perfume w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Add t h e w a t e r / a l c o h o l s o l u t i o n , PVP/VA, and t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e i n t h a t o r d e r , s t i r r i n g a f t e r each a d d i t i o n t o i n s u r e s o l u t i o n . Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h v e r y s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Caution! Ethanol i s very flammable! F o r m u l a HC-4

i..z-Lng--L.ot% Ne_u_f_r_a? A t y p i c a l bromate n e u t r a l i z i n g l o t i o n i s represented. o s i t y i s c o n t r o l l e d by b l e n d i n g s u r f a c t a n t s .

I_n_g.r-edi_e.!? tSl A Sodium b r o m a t e B r i j 30 L u r e t h - 4 p a l m i t i c amide Po 1y g 1y c o Water P r e s e r v a t ve

B A c e t i c ac d , g l a c i a l Preparation Add t h e odium b r o m a t e s o l v e d . Add t h e r e m a i n d e r continually u n t i l cooled t 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h (B). R e p l a c e Formula HC-18

SOURCE:

V sc-

Wto/, 2.0 4.5 4.5

79.0 q.s. q.s.

t o w a t e r . S t i r w i t h heat u n t i l d i so f ( A ) . Heat t o 7 0 - 7 5 C . A g i t a t e o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d j u s t pH t o w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . Package.

ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

792

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Stvlinq Mousse Diaformer Z-SM provides hold as well as conditioning on the hair. Its natural looking hold is flexible and bouncy. Sandoxylate SX-424 acts as a fragrance solubilizer and Elfugin AKT 300 is a corrosion inhibitor. Wt"s Inqredients: Diaformer Z-SM (Methacrylol ethyl betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer) 4.00 Deionized Water 78.05 Dow Corning 193 (Dimethicone Copolyol) 0.25 SD 40 Alcohol 17.00 Sandoxylate SX-424 (PPG-2 Isodeceth-12) 0.45 Fragrance 0.10 Elfugin AKT liq 300 (Sodium C13-15 Pareth-8 Butyl Phosphate and Sodium C13-15 Pareth-9 Phosphate) 0.10 Preservative qs Procedure: Add water to vessel. With mixing, add Dow Corning 193, SD 40 Alcohol, and Diaformer Z-SM in order. Mix well after each addition. Premix Sandoxylate SX-424 and Fragrance and add to batch with mixing. Add Elfugin AKT and Preservative one at a time with mixing. Aerosolize in the ratio of 95% concentrate to 5% A-70 propellant. Notes : Clariant has worked with Seaquist Valve to develop recommendations for valves. Their recommended valve system for CHF-09 is as follows: Button: Long Skirt/Long Spout//Stem: 2x0.020", 0.333" stem length Gasket: Buna-N O.O42"/Cup: Alum. CC, Ep.Top/Bottom, Cut gasket Spring: 0.020'' SS Body: Tailless In addition, they also tested and found four specific gaskets to be compatible with this formulation. They are in the NS-20 series: Buna-N #lo0 and #102, Buna-P #150 and Butyl #501. CHF-Og/Ref: CL24-95 Crystal Clear Hair Stvlinq Gel Inqredients: Wt% Deionized Water 96.78 Carbopol 1342 (Acrylates/ClO-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) 0.61 Triethanolamine 99% 0.20 Diaformer 2-301 (Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer) 1.60 Fragrance and Preservative qs Procedure: Sprinkle Carbopol 1342 into rapidly agitating cold water. Mix well until thoroughly dispersed. With mixing, add Triethanolamine to neutralize the Carbopol 1342. Add Diaformer 2-301 and other ingredients one at a time with mixing. Adjust pH as desired. Properties: Appearance: Water white, clear gel Viscosity: 36,000-40,000 cps CHF-O7/Ref: CL24-66 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations

Hair Care Products

193

W r o a e n Peroxide Emulsions Hydrogen p e r o x i d e e m u l s i o n s a r e l i s t e d b e l o w , based on 6% h y d r o g e n p e r o x i d e c o n t e n t . O t h e r l e v e l s s h o u l d be t o l e r a t e d b u t s h o u l d be c a r e f u l l y e v a l u a t e d V i s c o s i t y can b e v a r i e d by a d l u s t i n g t h e l e v e l s o f f a t t y a l c o h o l s , f a t t y a c i d , and emulsifier.

Cream

wts/o

Ingredients : A C e t y l alcohol B r i j 721 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .

6.0 5.0 0.5

B Water, d e i o n i z e d

66.3

C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g r a d e

22.2

w t Yo

In~c.edi_e_n__ts:. A Cetyl alcohol B r i j 721 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .

3.0 3.0 0.5 66.3 5.0

B Water, d e i o n i z e d Sorbitol Solution,

USP

C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g r a d e

22.2

Preparation : Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) b e l o w 45C and s t i r t o 35C. R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o between 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 w i t h d i l u t e p h o s p h o r i c a c i d ( 1 0 % C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e e v o l u t i o n o f oxygen. Comments: A f t e r f o u r weeks a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t h e above cream f o r m u l a has a v i s c o s i t y o f a b o u t 17,600 c p s . The e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i t y i s good f o r a t l e a s t f o u r weeks a t 50C and f o r a t l e a s t f o u r freeze-thaw c y c l e s . A f t e r f o u r weeks a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t h e l o t i o n f o r m u l a t i o n has a v i s c o s i t y o f 5,600 c p s . The e m u l s i o n i s p h y s i c a l l y s t a b l e a t 50C f o r a t l e a s t f o u r weeks and f o u r f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s . A f t e r t h r e e months a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t h e H202 c o n t e n t was a l m o s t 5%.

SOURCE:

I C I Surfactants:

F o r m u l a HC-13

794

Cosmetic and Toiletry formulations

HydIogen Per_Z?_xid e Let1 on The f o r m u l a l i s t e d b e l o w d e p a r t s i n t h a t a c o m b i n a t i o n o f s t e a r i c a c i d and f a t t y a l c o h o l s i s used t o a c h i e v e t h e d e s i r e d c o n s i s t e n c y A l s o p h e n a c e t i n , a s t a b i l i z e r , and N - h y d r o x y e t h y l ethylenediaminetriacetic a c i d , a c h e l a t i n g agent, a r e i n c l u d e d t o promote s t a b i l i t y o f t h e hydrogen p e r o x i d e Wt% Ingredients. A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed 10.00 Stearyl alcohol 0 50 Cetyl alcohol 1 .oo B r i ] 721 5.00 S i l i c o n e o i 1 , 350 c s 0.50 B Water 60 5 6 N - h y d r o x y e t h y l e t h y l e n e d i am1 n e - t r i a c e t i c a c i d 0 20 Phenacet i n 0.04 C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 2 7 % d i l u t i o n g r a d e 22.20 D Phosphoric a c i d (10% C . P ) 9.50 Preparation: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 7 2 C . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) b e l o w 45C and s t i r t o 35C. R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o between 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 w i t h d i l u t e p h o s p h o r i c a c i d ( 1 0 % C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e e v o l u t i o n o f oxygen. Cornrnent s : A f t e r f i v e weeks a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e l o t i o n was 1 0 , 2 0 0 c p s . The e m u l s i o n was s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t f i v e weeks a t 50C and f o r a t l e a s t f o u r f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s A f t e r t h r e e months a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t h e h y d r o g e n p e r o x i d e c o n t e n t was 5% F o r m u l a HC-14 Styling/Conditioning

Mousse

A p r o t o t y p e s t y l i n g / c o n d i t i o n i n g mousse i s shown. I t i n c l u d e s F o r e s t a l l as a c o n d i t i o n e r , a s i l i c o n e c o p o l y m e r t o i m p r o v e wet combing and p o l y m e r i c r e s i n f o r s e t t i n g . Ingredi ects: Wt% A Forestall 1.4 B r i ] 721 0.5 Amodimethicone ( a n d ) Nonoxynol-10 ( a n d ) T a l l o w t r imoni um c h l o r i de 0 1 78.0 Water 8 Vinylcaprolactam/PVP/Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate 5.0 copolymer 10.0 E t h a n o l , SDA-40 C H y d r o c a r b o n P r o p e l l a n t A-46 5 0 Preparation : Heat ( A ) t o 70C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40C. Add ( A ) t o ( 5 ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Pack i n s u i t a b l e a e r o s o l c o n t a n e r s and p r e s s u r i z e w i t h ( C ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Caution: Ethanol i s very flammable! F o r m u l a HC-12 SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

195

Medium Hold, 8 0 % VOC Pump Hair Spray Diaformer Z-A provides a medium hold in this clear, water white spray. It also reduces static and improves manageability when the hair is combed. Its clear, flexible film gives a natural looking hold while offering excellent curl retention. Inqredients: Diaformer Z-A (Methacrylol Ethyl Betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer) Dow Corning 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) Lauramide DEA SD 40 Alcohol Fragrance and Preservative Deionized Water

wt% 5.00 0.20 0.10 75.00 qs

qs

Procedure: Add Diaformer Z-A to the alcohol mixing well. Add water with mixing. Add remaining ingredients one at a time with mixing. Appearance: Clear, water white liquid Formula CHF-12/REF: CL24-76

1 Diahold A-503 is easily formulated into a firm hold spray. This anionic polymer requires no in-process neutralization. Its good compatibility with water and superior curl retention produce a clear water white spray with excellent hold. 1nqredients:Diahold A-503 (AMP-Acrylates Copolymer) Dow Corning 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) Lauramide DEA SD 40 Alcohol D-Panthenol Fragrance and Preservative Deionized Water

wtg 7.00 0.20 0.10 75.00 0.05 qs qs

Procedure: Add Diahold A-503 to the alcohol mixing well. Add water with mixing. Add remaining ingredients one at a time with mixing. Appearance: Clear, water white liquid Formula CHF-l3/REF: CL24-74 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations

196

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

__ Mild

F o r t i f i e d Hair Conditioner

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s a h i g h d e g r e e o f s u b s t a n t i v i t y and c o n d i t i o n i n g . I t h e l p s t o m i n i m i z e damaged h a i r w h i l e l e a v i n g t h e h a i r s o f t and manageable.

W t. %90.5 3.0 2.0 2.5 2.0

InLredi.en_ts_:_

Water Cetearyl Alcohol Monalac MPL Monaquat SL-5 G1 y c e r i n A d j u s t t h e pH t o 5 . 0 Appearance: W h i t e m i l k y l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C: 8 0 0 C P F e a t u r e s o f Monalac MPL: Long l a s t i n g c o n d i t i o n i n g H i g h l y s u b s t a n t i v e on s k i n and h a i r Smooth s i l k y a f t e r - f e e l Unusually m i l d cleanser p r o p e r t i e s Multifunctional surfactant Low i r r i t a t i o n p o t e n t i a l Hai r Condi t j o n e 1 Lngredi ents : 0.5% H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n water Cetyl Alcohol M o n a s i l PLN

Wts/, 93.0

3.0 4.0

Viscosity: 2000 c p s Opaque V i s c o u s L i q u i d

Procedure: H y d r a t e HEC i n w a t e r , t h e n add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h s u f f i c i e n t h e a t t o m e l t c e t y l a l c o h o l . Add f r e g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e , and t h e n package. F e a t u r e s o f M o n a s i l PLN: Water s o l u b l e H i g h s i 1i c o n e c o n t e n t H i gh 1 y s u b s t a n t ive Non i r r i t a t i n g Long l a s t i n g s i l k y a f t e r - f e e l Multifunctional surfactant properties

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

197

Permanent Wave Lotion One obvious application for Forestall i s i n home permanents as a deodorizer/conditioner. The following example i s a basic formula without optional ingredients like opacifiers o r thickeners Lngredi ents : A Forestall soyaethyl morpholinium ethosulfate B r i ] 35 Laureth-23 Water B

Ethanolami ne

Wt% 1.4 2.0 80.1

9.5

C Thioglycolic acid

7.0

Preparation : Mix (A) with gentle heat if necessary until uniform. Add ( B ) . Add (C). Adjust pH to 9.0-9.5with additional ethanolamine o r thioglycolic acid. Formula HC-15 N c u t ral 1 z i.na L o t i on

I_ngred_i entsi A Forestall soyaethyl morpholinium ethosulfate B r i ] 35 Water Stabi 1 1 zer

Vi tYo 1.4

2.0 92.3 q.s

8 Hydrogen peroxide, 35%

4.3

C Phosphoric acid

4.s.

Preparation: Mix ( A ) with gentle heat until uniform. Add ( B ) at 2 5 1 2 . Adjust pH to 4.0-5.0with (C). Optional stabilizers may include sequestrants o r antioxidants. Formula HC-16 SOURCE:

ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations

798

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Spray Hair G e l T h i s c l e a r g e l has e x c e l l e n t pump s p r a y q u a l i t y , w i t h m o d e r a t e h o l d and l i t t l e t a c k on h a i r u n d e r humid c o n d i t i o n s . C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 1 0 g i v e s a v e r y c l e a r g e l w h i c h suspends a i r b u b b l e s , y e t t h i n s when pumped t h r o u g h t h e s p r a y e r t o g i v e a f i n e m i s t . Wt% I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water 29.70 0.30 Carbomer/Carbopol U l t r e z 1 0 Part 8: Glycerin 2.00 Methyl paraben 0.20 P a r t C: D e i o n i z e d Water 59.37 PVP/VA c o p o l y m e r / L u v i s k o l VA-73W 8.00 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 0.12 DMDM H y d a n t o i n / G l y d a n t 0.20 D i s o d i um EDTA/Versene NA 0.01 Part D: PEG-45 Palm K e r n e l G1 y c e r i d e s / C r o v o l PK-70 0.10 P r o p e r t i es : PH: 5 . 3 - 5 . 6 V i s c o s i t y (cP): 8,000-10,000 C l a r i t y (%T): 89.0-95.0 Preparation Procedure: 1 . P a r t A : D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 1 0 p o l y m e r by s p r i n k l i n g on t h e s u r f a c e o f warm (25-45C) d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . No m i x i n g r e qui red. 2 . A f t e r t h e p o l y m e r i s w e t t e d ( n o d r y w h i t e powder v i s i b l e ) , m i x s l o w l y a t l o w speed. 3 . Mix P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h heat u n t i l paraben i s d i s s o l v e d . 4 . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . 5 . Mix Part C i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l they a r e dissolved. 6 . Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A and B w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . 7 . P r e m e l t C r o v o l PK-70 and add t o b a t c h . 8 . Add s m a l l a d d i t i o n a l amounts o f TEA u n t i l g e l i s c l e a r (PH 5 . 3 - 5 . 6 ) . Speci a1 I n s t r u c t i o n s : I n t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n , a P V P / V A ( 7 0 : 3 0 ) c o p o l y m e r i n aqueous s o l u t i o n i s r e q u i r e d t o m a i n t a i n optimum c l a r i t y a t up t o 4% r e s i n s o l i d s . A d d i t i o n a l l y , t h e b e s t c l a r i t y w i l l be o b t a i n e d when t h e pH i s m a i n t a i n e d between 5 . 3 - 5 . 6 . S p e c i a l c a r e s h o u l d be t a k e n t o n o t exceed t h i s pH. A d d i t i o n a l h o l d can be o b t a i n e d by t h e i n c o r p o r a t i o n o f P V P K90 (BASF) a t 0 . 5 % t o P a r t B w i t h o u t a r e d u c t i o n o f g e l clarity. The v i s c o s i t y can be l o w e r e d by a d d i n g v e r y s m a l l q u a n t i t es o f Na2 EDTA ( 0 . 0 1 % i n c r e m e n t s ) i f s o d e s i r e d . Note: Recommended s p r a y e r i s Calmar Mark I V h i g h p r e s s u r e , 1 . 8 b p r e c o m p r e s s i o n s p r i n g , W t 25 A c t u a t o r o r i f i c e ( C a l m a r , I n c . )

SOURCE:

B.F. Goodrich Co.:

F o r m u l a t i o n 0003

Hat Care Products

Ingredients: Water T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Propylene Glycol Glycerin Quaternium-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) DL-Panthenol D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l 8 88183) S u c r o s e Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t LSE 65K) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) Fragrance Preservatives Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r ,

199

Wt% 93.35 0.10 2.00 1.25 0.30 0.50 1 .oo 0.50 1.oo Q.S. Q.S.

m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s .

Spray B e t a n g 1 e_r

T h i s p r o d u c t i s s p r a y e d o n t o t h e h a i r t o make combing o f wet o r d r y h a i r e a s i e r . Ingredients: Water Propylene Glycol Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e L - 7 ) PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8852) Fragrance Preservatives Procedure: Blend t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , the formula i s clear.

Wt% 87.3 8.0 3.0 1.o 0.7 Q.S 0.S

m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s u n t i l

Comb- Through Gl-osser

Ingre_dient_s:

Wt%

Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Oimethicone ( A b i l OSW-12) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV-20) D i m e t h i cone ( 5 0 0 c s ) Dimethicone (1000 c s ) Fragrance Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r

-

mixing well.

C a u t i o n : T r a c e s o f w a t e r w i l l cause t u r b i d i t y .

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

68.0 20.0 2.0 10.0 Q.S.

200

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Temp-orary Ha.1 r Coj-or

Gel W/Sgnscyeen

I N C I N a m e / T r a d e Name: Phase A : Dei o n ? z e d W a t e r D i s o d l urn EDTA G1 y c e r i n SD 4 0 A l c o h o l Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) I r o n Oxide/Colorona Red G o l d Phase B : Carbomer ( 2 % a q s o l u t i o n ) / C a r b o p o l 981 Phase C : Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) P h a s e D: Dei o n i zed Water T r 1 e t ha no 1 am i n e ( 99%) Phenylbenzirnidazole S u l f o n i c A c i d (% as a c i d ) / Eusolex 232

Wt% 10.35 0.05 2.00 20.00

5.00 50.00 3.00 1 .50 5.00 1.10

2.00

Procedure: C o m b i n e Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s s e q u e n t i a l l y u n d e r s l o w c o u n t e r r o t a t i o n a g i t a t i o n . Add P h a s e B . M i x s l o w l y . Add c o m b i n e d Phase C . M a . i n t a i n s l o w a g i t a t i o i i u n t i l b a t c h a p p e a r s smooth and homogeneous. Combine Phase D i n g r e d i e n t s s e q u e n t i a l l y ; mix t o c l a r i t y ; add t o b a t c h s l o w l y . M i x b a t c h t o u n i f o r m i t y . F o r m u l a EUS2-71-3 B l a c k s t a r H a i r Gel I N C I N a m e j T r a d e Name: Phase A : Oei o n ? z e d W a t e r G1 y c e r i ne SD 40 A l c o h o l Di s o d 1 u m EDTA I r o n Oxides (and) Mica/Colorona B l a c k s t a r Colors Phase B : C a r b o m e r / l % C a r b o p o l 940 s o l u t i o n Phase C : T r i e t h a n o l am1 n e 99% O e ? o n i z e d Water Phase D : S D 40 A l c o h o l PVP/VA E - 7 3 5

Wt%

18.00 2.00 10.00 0.05 5.00

50.00 0.75 2.20

10.00 2.00

Procedure: C o m b i n e P h a s e A w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . When h o m o g e n e o u s , add t h e r e m a i n i n g phases i n o r d e r w i t h s t i r r i n g . Formu 1 a AS1 - 1 1 - 1

SOURCE:

Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

201

Washable Crew Cut Wgx T h i s f o r m u l a was d e v e l o p e d t o p r o v i d e good g r o o m i n g , c o l o r , o d o r , h i g h m e l t i n g p o i n t , and r a p i d w a s h a b i l i t y . H a i r b r u s h e s s t a y c l e a n and t h e u s e r g e t s a l i g h t shampoo s i m p l y b y s t a n d i n g under t h e shower

I cg r-ed l e n t s : Tallow glycerides Tween 6 0 A r l a c e l 165 g l y c e r o l m o n o s t e a r a t e and PEG-100 B r i J 58 C e t e t h - 2 0 P a r a f f i n wax

stearate

Preparation: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r a t 70C and a g i t a t e . molds and c o o l . Formula HC-3

W t"/. 15.0 20.0 30.0 30.0 5.0

Cast i n t o

C l e a r Hai-r C o n d i t i o n e r - L o t i o n Inqredients: A H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e , 3% aqueous 6 F o r e s t a l 1 s o y a e t h y l morphol i n i um e t h o s u l f a t e Water

w2. 'h 40.0 1.4 58.6

Preparation: P r e p a r e ( A ) i n advance by d i s p e r s i n g h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n w a t e r t o y i e l d a 3% s o l u t i o n . P r e p a r e s o l u t i o n ( 6 ) . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous. F o r m u l a HC-8 Cream H a l r R i n s e F o r e s t a l l can a l s o be used e f f e c t i v e l y r i n s e " l o t i o n l i k e t h e one shown b e l o w .

i n an o p a c i f i e d "cream

Ingredients: Cetyl alcohol Bri 1 7 2 1 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 F o r e s t a l l soyaethyl morpholinium e t h o s u l f a t e Water

w O.t h 1.5 1.o 1.4 96.1

Preparation: Heat t o 70C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g and add make-up w a t e r a t 50C. Formula HC-9

SOURCE:

ICI

S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

202

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Water-in-Oil Hair Dressinq Cream Inaredients: A Mineral oil Ceresin wax Beeswax Arlacel 186 Glyceryl Oleate and Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Solution, USP

B Water Preservative

wt%

20.0 2.0 2.0

2.0 18.0

56.0 q.s.

Preparation: Heat ( A ) to 70C. Heat (B) to 72C. Add (B) to (A) with continuous agitation. Continue stirring until cream cools to room temperature. Replace water lost by evaporation. Mill to produce maximum smoothness and stability. Formula HC-1 Formula HC-2 is an example of an oil-in-water hair dressing lotion. Two percent lanolin added to Formula HC-2 improved grooming and stability. No change in emulsifier content or ratio is required. Oil-in-Water Hair Dressinq Lotion Inqredients:

wtg

A Mineral oil

35.0

Microcrystalline wax Arlacel 60 Sorbitan Stearate Tween 60 Polysorbate 60 B Water Preservative

5.0

2.0 3.0 55.0 q.s.

Preparation: Heat ( A ) to 70C. Heat (B) to 72C. Add (B) to (A) with moderate stirring. Stir to 35C and replace water lost by evaporation. Formula HC-2

SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations

Hair Care Products

203

55% VOC Pump Hair Spray

This 55% VOC hair spray incorporates Diaformer 2-400. This deodorized polymer is well suited to lightly fragranced products. It provides a medium hold in this crystal clear, water white spray. Velsan P8-3 acts as a non-greasy superfatting agent. Inqredients: wt% Diaformer 2-400 (Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer) 4.00 SD 40 Alcohol 40.00 Velsan P8-3 (Isopropyl C12-15 Pareth-9 Carboxylate) 0.50 Fragrance and Preservative qs Deionized Water qs Procedure: Add Diaformer 2-400 to the alcohol mixing well. Add water with mixing. Add remaining ingredients one at a time with mixing. Appearance: Clear, water white liquid Formula CHF-l4/REF: CL24-76 80% VOC

Aerosol Hair Spray

Diaformer Z-AT provides excellent curl retention and hold in this 80% VOC aerosol hair spray. In addition, it provides some conditioning, reduces static, and improves manageability when the hair is combed. Inqredients: Diaformer 2-AT (Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer) Deionized Water Dow Corning 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) SD 40 Alcohol Lauramide DEA Fragrance and Preservative

Wt% 3.60 19.60 0.20 75.00

0.10 CIS

Procedure: Add Diaformer Z-AT to the alcohol mixing well. Add water with mixing. Add remaining ingredients one at a time with mixing. Aerosolize in the ratio of 80 parts concentrate to 2 0 parts propellant. Appearance: Clear, water white liquid Formula CHF-l5/REF: CL24-95 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations

Section VII Lotions

Lotions

205

Body Lotion

Wt% Insredients: Phase A: 76.70 H20, Deionized Keltrol T 0.60 0.20 Tetrasodium EDTA Phase B: 4.00 Hest G-7-TO (Glycereth-7 Trioctanoate) 3.30 Hetlan AC (Cetyl Acetate & Acetylated Lanolin A l c . ) 1.65 Hetoxamate SA-40 (PEG-40 Stearate) Hetoxol STA-2 (Steareth-2) 0.55 Glyceryl Stearate 1.65 0.75 Petrolatum 0.70 Hest MS (Myristyl Stearate) 3.65 Hest CSO (Cetearyl Octanoate) 5.00 Hest L-2-0 (Laureth-2 Octanoate) 0.25 Lecithin Phase C: 1.00 Germaben I1 E Specifications: pH: 6.75 Visc. #3/12: 5000 cps Procedure: 1. In a stainless steel kettle, disperse Keltrol T into H20 using a lightnin' type mixer. 2. When completely dispersed, add Tetrasodium EDTA and heat to 751:.

3. In a separate kettle, combine Phase B and heat to 75C. 4. Add Phase B to Phase A while mixing until uniform. 5. Cool to below 40C and add Phase C. SOURCE: Heterene, Inc.: Formula HL 94-146" Milk Lotion Raw Materials: wt% A. Liquid Petrolatum 4.7 Amiter LG-OD 2.2 Propylene Glycol Monostearate 0.4 POE ( 5 ) Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Emalex HC-5) 1.3 2.8 POE ( 5 ) Glyceryl Monostearate (Emalex GM-5) 0.1 Butylparaben Amihope LL 3.0 B. Acylglutamate HS-11 0.3 1,3-Butylene Glycol 5.0 Methylparaben 0.2 C. Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.2 Water 79.72 D. Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) 0.08 1. Dissolve (A) at 80C. 2. Dissolve (C), and then neutralize with (D). 3. Add ( B ) to #2, and dissolve at 8 0 C . 4. Add #3 slowly to (A) with mixing, and then cool to 30C. Note: This milk lotion has light touch, and spreads well. SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, Inc.: Suggested Formulation

206

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Body Lotion, Tvpe O/W. with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex Raw Materials: a) Eumulgin VL 75 Lanette 0 Monomuls 60-35C Cetiol LC Cetiol B Cetiol PGL Myritol 312 Copherol F 1300 Phenonip b) Water, distilled Phenonip Carbopol 980 Glycerin

Wt%

4.50 2.00 1.00 4.00 5.00 1.00 2.00

1.00 0.30

65.85 0.30 0.30 2.00

c) KOH 20%

0.75

d) Water, distilled Na3-Citrate x 2H20 MPC-Milk Peptide Complex

9.38 0.12 0.50

Manufacture: a) Melt and bring to approx. 80C. b) Bring to approx. 80C and add to a) with stirring. Continue stirring until cooled to approx. 50C. c) Add. Continue stirring until cooled to approx. 30C. d) Stir in. Perfume, homogenize. MPC contains natural polypeptides from milk, in activated form. A protective environment exclusively comprised of milk components such as lactalbumin, lactoglobulin, lactoferrin, lactose and lactate provides for product stability and maintenance of bioactivity. Bioactivity is standardized in every batch of MPC to a representative concentration range (EC50). In vitro bioassays in cell cultures and in vivo tests on epithelial tissue and on human skin give proof of the bioactivity and cosmetic benefits of MPC. SOURCE: Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH: Formulas

lotions

207

Flowable M o i s t u r i - z i n g Mi1 k. Cr.eamvLot.j-on R_a_w_ Mat-eyial : Monalac MPL Monaquat S L - 5 Water P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e (45%)

W-t % 3.0 5.0 60.7 0.2 0.5 20.0

B B

Monafax MAP 160 Monalac M L Cetearyl Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate

C C

Fragrance Preservative

Pact: A A A A B B

5.1 2.0

1.o

2.0

Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and h e a t t o 75C. Add ( 0 ) t o ( A ) and c o n t i n u e t o homogenize. S t i r - c o o l , w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n , t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 t h e n f i l l . Physical Properties: Appearance: F l o w a b l e H i g h M o i s t u r i z i n g M i l k y L o t i o n F o r m u l a t i o n F-714 Monasi 1 PCA L o t i o n Ingrgdi ents : Part A: Phosphol i p i d S V Propylene Glycol Germaben I I E T i t a n 1 um D i ox1 de TEA Water

Wt%

3.0 2.0 0.4 0.4 0.6 84.6

Part B: Cetyl Alcohol Monafax MAP 160 Hexyl Laurate M o n a s i l PCA

2.0 1.o 4.0

2.0

Procedure: Heat A & B s e p a r a t e l y t o 60C. S l o w l y add B t o A w i t h homogeni z a t i o n and c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g f o r an a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e . S t i r c o o l t o 40-45C, add f r a g r a n c e and p a c k a g e . Typical Properties: V i s c o s i t y : 1 0 0 , 0 0 0 CP pH: 6 . 4 F o r m u l a t i o n F-705

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

208

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

An e a s y - t o - m a k e , -P -

art: A

basic,

______ Hand L o t i o n y e t v e r y e f f e c t i v e m o i s t u r i z i n g hand l o t i o n

I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: D e m i n e r a l i z e d Water H y d r o x y p r o p y l Methylcellulose/Methocel

40-100

&% 82.34 0.10

B

Na4 E DTA Triethanolamine

0.20 0.08

C

G1 y c e r i n P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben/ Germaben I 1 S o d i u m C12-15 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l S - 1 5 0 CGN

3.00 3.00

D

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20/Macol S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e / S - M a z 60 M i n e r a l O i 1/ D r a k e 0 1 9 I s o p r o p y l Palmitate/Lexol IPP C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / M a s i l SF-V

4.50 1.oo 2.00 2 . DO 0.50

E

Fragrance/Lotion

F

C i t r i c Acid,

124

4047

0.60 0.50

0.05

50%

0.13

PH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 6 Ir p m ) V i s c o s i t y : 4 0 0 0 - 6 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d #2 @ Appearance: Glossy w h i t e , f l o w a b l e l o t i o n

Procedure: I n t h e main v e s s e l , mix t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s f o r 10 m i n u t e s . Add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s , a n d m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s , a n d b e g i n h e a t i n g t h e b a t c h t o 60C. I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e m i x p a r t D , h e a t i n g t o 60C. S l o w l y , w i t h g o o d p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n , a d d p a r t D t o t h e m a i n b a t c h . When u n i f o r m a n d s m o o t h , b e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g g o o d a g i t a t i o n . Add f r a g r a n c e a n d a d j u s t pH when b a t c h i s a t a b o u t 45C. P a c k a g e a t a b o u t 35C. P r o d u c t w i l l r e m a i n t h i n a n d p o u r a b l e f o r s e v e r a l h o u r s a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . I t t h i c k e n s t o s p e c i f i e d v i s c o s i t y overnight.

SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions

209

Hand and Body Lotion T h i s hand and body l o t i o n combines s k i n m o i s t u r i z i n g and p r o t e c t i v e p r o p e r t i e s w i t h a non-tacky, n a t u r a l s k i n f e e l . Insredient/Trade P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water D i s o d i um EDTA Carbomer/Carbopol

Name:

wts/, 83.90 0.10 0.20

U l t r e z 10

Part B: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l G1 y c e r i n Methylparaben Propylparaben

0.80 5.00 0.20 0.10

P a r t C: M i n e r a l O i l / D r a k e o l 21 S t e a r i c A c i d ( t r i p l e p r e s s e d ) / H y s t r e n e 5016 Glycol Stearate Cetyl Acetate/Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol/Acetulan Glyceryl Stearate Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone/Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d , 100 c s

4.00 2.00 1 .50 0.50 0.50 0,20 0.50

Part D: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

0.50

Properties: pH: 6 . 9 - 7 . 3 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) a t 25C: 14,000-20,000 C o l o r , odor, appearance: T h i c k , w h i t e ,

glossy emulsion

Procedure: 1 . Add d i s o d i u m EDTA t o t h e w a t e r . M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 2 . D i s p e r s e Carbopol U l t r e z 10 polymer i n t h e w a t e r . A f t e r p o l y m e r has f u l l y w e t t e d , m i x a t a s l o w speed. 3 . Combine P a r t 8 . Heat s l i g h t l y and m i x u n t i l t h e p a r a b e n s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add t o P a r t A . 4 . Heat t h e combined P a r t s A and B t o 65C. 5 . Combine P a r t C . Heat t o 65C and m i x s l i g h t l y u n t i l a l l t h e sol i d s a r e d i ssol ved. 6 . Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A and B . W h i l e t h e t e m p e r a t u r e i s a t 65C, add P a r t D . 7 . Mix t h e emulsion w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n u n t i l t h e tempera t u r e r e a c h e s 40C. Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .

SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n U 0 0 0 2

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

270

Liqht

Moisturizinp Lotion

A l i g h t , n o n o i l y l o t i o n w h i c h s p r e a d s e a s i l y and i s a b s o r b e d q u i c k l y i n t o t h e s k i n . S t l i t a b l e a s a base f o r an a f t e r - s h a v e b a l m o r an a f t e r - s u n l o t i o n .

Part: A

I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name:. D e i o n i z e d Water H y d r o x y p r o p y l Methylcellulose/Methocel PPG-4 E t h y l e n e D i ami ne/Mazeen 1 7 4

w_v

79.5 40-100

0.1 0.2

C e t y l A l c o h o l /CO-I 6 9 5 S t e a r i c Aci d/fmersol 132 S o r b i t a n Laurate/S-Maz 2 0 B e n z y l L a u r a t e / M a z o l EE-1 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / M a s i 1 SF-V D i m e t h i c o n n / M a s i 1 SF-1000

2.0 2.0 2.0 1.o

C

M e t h y l Paraben I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 11 5 SO A l c o h o l 408

0.2 0.2 5.0

D

C i t r i c Acid Dei o n i zed Water

0.3 5.0

B

2.0 0.5

pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 54,000 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d T C C 1 . 5 rpm) 7 , 2 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d # 3 13 1 2 rpm) Appearance: S l i g h t l y p e a r l e s c e n t , g l o s s y w h i t e l o t i o n

Procedure: M i x p a r t A w a t e r and t h e h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n main t a n k , b e g i n h e a t i n g t o 70C. A f t e r f i v e m i n u t e s , add t h e Mazeen 1 7 4 t o r a i s e t h e pH t o 8 . 5 - 9 . 0 , h y d r a t i n g t h e c e l l u l o s e . I n a s i d e v e s s e l , m i x and h e a t t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s t o 70C. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h good m i x i n g . Add t h e m e t h y l p a r a b e n . Cool t h e b a t c h t o 35-40C, add t h e i m i d a z o l i d i n y l u r e a and a l c o h o l . A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d d i s s o l v e d i n w a t e r .

SOURCE:

PPG Industries, I n c . : Suggested Formulation 1-205

Lotions

21 1

L o t i on F o r m u l a SK-8a i s a m i n e r a l based o i l - i n - w a t e r l o t i o n w i t h a v i s c o s i t y i n t h e r a n g e o f 6-8,000 c p s . Thermal s t a b i l i t y i s good, w i t h some s e p a r a t i o n n o t e d a f t e r t h e f o u r t h f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e .

Wt%

Inqredients: A Light mineral o i l Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 B r i j 72 S t e a r e t h - 2

B Water,

8.0 1.o 2.0 2.0

deionized

86.9

C Preservative

q.s.

D Fragrance

0.1

Preparation : Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and a g i t a t e w i t h p r o p e l l e r , Add ( C ) b e l o w 50C and ( D ) a t 35C. Add w a t e r t o r e p l a c e t h a t l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. F o r m u l a SK-8a The f o r m u l a b e l o w p r o v i d e s e x c e l l e n t e m o l l i e n c e w i t h o u t e x c e s s i v e g r e a s i n e s s . T h i s m i g h t be used f o r a d r y s k i n p r e p a r a t i on. Dry Skin Lotion

hredients: A. Light mineral o i l A r l a m o l ISML I s o s o r b i d e L a u r a t e S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s . B r i j 700 S t e a r e t h - 1 0 0 Span 60 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e

72.0 0.3 3.0

B . Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbomer 934 Sorbitol Solution,

Wt% 10.0 7.0 0.5 2.4 3.6

USP

C . Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n ,

10% aqueous

0.3

D. Preservative

q.s.

E. Fragrance

0.1

Preparation Heat ( A ) moderate ag and r e p l a c e F o r m u l a SK-

SOURCE:

ICI

t o 70C and (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C water l o s t by evaporation. 1 Surfactants:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

272

_.___ L o t i o n f .o- r

Very D r y Skin

P r o v i d e s i n s t a n t s o f t e n i n g and m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f o r r o u g h , chapped s k i n . The g r e a s i n e s s o f t h e p e t r o l a t u m i s g r e a t l y r e d u c e d bv t h e d r v f e e l o f Mazon E E - 1 , and t h e r e i s no d r a g g y t r a n s i t i o n d u r i n g - r u b o u t t h a n k s t o hilacol 5 7 .

_-_ Part: A

I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Dei on1 zed Water H y d r o x y p r o p y l Methylcellulose/Methocal T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 50%

Wt%

40-100

71.2 0.2 0.1

B

Glycerin M e t h y l Paraben

4.0 0.2

C

P e t r o l a t u m / P e r l a t u m 4 1 0 CG C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) Ceteareth-20jMacol 124 B e n z y l Laurate/Mazon E i - 1 C e t y l A c e t a t e (and) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l c o h o l / ACetlJlan P P G - 1 0 Butaned oljhilacol 57

6.0 5.0

D

I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 1 1 5 Dei o n i zed Wate

0.2 2.0

E

F r a y r a nc e C i t r i c Acid

0.1 C.S.

4.5 4.0 2.5

QH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 3 0 0 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d TF @ 1 . 5 rpm) Appearance: G l o s s y w h i t e , v i s c o u s l o t i o n

Procedure: Disperse t h e hydroxypropyl methylcellulose i n t o t h e p a r t A w a t e r . Add t h e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and m i x f o r a t l e a s t 2 0 m i n u t e s . Add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s , and h e a t t o 65C. Premix p a r t C i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 70C. Add p a r t C t o A t B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n t o f o r m t h e e m u l s i o n . W i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 45C. Add p a r t D ( p r e m i x e d ) , f o l l o w e d by f r a g r a n c e . A d j u s t pH, if n e c e s s a r y .

SOURCE:

PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Formulation 1-108

Lotions

213

Low C o s t Moi s t u r i z i nq L o t i o n This u l t r a l i g h t l o t i o n leaves t h e s k i n w i t h a s o f t , velvety feel. Sequence: 1 1 1

smooth

Wt%

1

Raw M a t e r i a l / I N C I Name: Dei o n i zed Water Methyl paraben Hampene N a 3 T / T r i s o d i u m EDTA L i p o n i c EG-l/Glycereth-26

77.76 0.25 0.05 1.25

2

Carbopol 934 ( 2 % a q . d i s p ' n . ) / C a r b o m e r

12.00

3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3

L i p o n a t e NPGC-2 L i pomul se 165 L i p o p e g 6000DS/PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e L i poco1 C / C e t y l A l c o h o l Lipowax P / E m u l s i f y i n g Wax, N F L i p o v o l CO/Castor O i 1 L i p o v o l ALM/Sweet Almond O i 1 Propyl paraben

2.00 1.25 0.50 1 .oo 0.60 0.50 0.30 0.10

4 4

Dei o n i zed Water Triethanolamine,

0.24

5 5

Dei o n i zed Water U n i c i d e U - I 3 / I m i d a z o l i d n y l Urea

1 .oo 99%

1.oo 0,20

Procedure: 1 . M i x and h e a t Sequence # I t o 8OC u s i n g h i g h speed on o v e r h e a d mixer 2 . Heat Seauence #2 t o 70C and add t o Sequence # 1 , b r i n g i n g tempe r a t u r e 'back t o 80C. 3 . M i x t o g e t h e r Sequence #3 and he t t o 78C u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d and c l e a r . Then add t o b a t c h a t medium speed on o v e r head m i x e r . 4 . Premix Sequence # 4 and add t o b a t c h a t medium/high speed on - _ _ (Ll e_ d_ 0_ I -. L.7- - - , . _L-_ L _ L q c n - _ - _- - - - L7-A.. uvei iiii x e r , w r i i I e L O U I I rty u d L c i i x u J J C , u s I i i y s w e e p u I a u e a t l o w speed. 5 . Premix Sequence # 5 i n g r e d i e n t s and add t o b a t c h a t 35C.

.

__

SOURCE:

L _

L i p 0 C h e m i c a l s I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n No. 899

274

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisture Lotion

Yt.%

Ingredients; A : Squalane Beeswax Propylene g l y c o l s t e a r a t e G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE POE ( 1 5 ) G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e FOE ( 3 0 ) G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e B:

34.5 1.5 1.5 3.0 4.0 2.0

A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 Propylene g l y c o l Prodew 100 Methyl paraben Water

0.2 5.0 2.0 0.2 balance

Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) and ( B ) r e s p e c t i v e l y a t 80-85C. Add ( A ) t o (B), s t i r . Cool down t o 50C w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n by homomixer and t h e n t o 35C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . F o r m u l a No. NCC-1003-1

W/O

Lotion WtQh

Raw M a t e r i a l s : A : Eldew CL-301 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate Glyceryl trioctanoate Squal ane

2.0 0.5 8.0 4.4

B : Dimethicone copolyol Dimethicone ( h i g h l y polymer1zed)

C: G l y c e r i n Mar indew PC-100 BG-M NaCl Water

10.0 2.0

5.0 0.02 1.o 0.8 t o make 1 0 0 . 0

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 40-5OC. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . M i x and d i s s o l v e ( C ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and add s l o w l y t o t h e m i x t u r e o f ( A ) and ( B ) w i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g ( 4 0 0 0 rpm f o r 4 m i n u t e s ) . Features : A w / o l o t i o n w i t h l i g h t and l e s s o c c l u s i v e t o u c h . F o r m u l a No. M-2

SOURCE:

Ajinomoto U . S , A . ,

I n c . : Applications

Formulas

Lotions

215

Moisturizinq Milk Lotion Ingredient: Part A: Monalac MPL Monaquat SL-5 Water Potassium Hydroxide (45%) Monasil PLN

5.0 55.7

Part B: Monafax MAP 160 Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol (Alfol 1618CG) Isopropyl Palmitate

0.5 20.0 5.1 2.0

wt% 5.0 0.2

4.0

Part C: Fragrance Germaben I1

2.0

0.5

Proced1:re: 1) Co:hine ingredients in both phases separately. 2 ) Heat both separately to 75C. 3 ) Add Part B to Part A and homogenize for at least 15 minutes. 4) Stir cool, with minimal aeration to 45C. 5) Add fragrance, color, and preservative (Part C). 6) Adjust pH to 6.0-6.5 then fill. Monasil

PCA

Lotion

Inaredients: Part A: Phospholipid SV Propylene Glycol Germaben IIE Titanium Dioxide Triethanolamine (99%) Water Part B: Cetyl Alcohol Monafax MAP 160 Hexyl Laurate Monasil PCA

Wt% 3.0 2.0

0.4 0.4

0.6 84.6 2.0

1.0 4.0 2.0

Procedure: Heat A & B separately to 65C. Slowly add B to A with homogenization and continue blending for an appropriate time. Stir cool to 40-45C, add fragrance and package. Typical Properties: Viscosity: 100,000 cP/pH: 6.4 SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations

21 6

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Non-Greasy W/O M i n e r a l O i 1 F r e e L o t i o n

Wt%

Inqredi ents: A A r l a m o l HD, Isohexadecane A r l a m o l E , PPG 15 s t e a r y l e t h e r A r l a c e l P135, PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e A r l a m o l ISML, I s o s o r b i d e L a u r a t e A r l a t o n e T , PEG 4 0 S o r b i t a n P e r o l e a t e

10.0 5.0 4.0 1. o 0.5

B Water 70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n

74.2 5.0

0.3

C Magnesium s u l f a t e

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 5 0 C , ( 6 ) t o 55C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h moderate p r o p e l l e r s t i r r i n g . Homogenize f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add ( C ) . C o n t i n u e h o m o g e n i z a t i o n u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e reaches 40C. Comments: V i s c o s i t y 2 6 , 1 2 0 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d D V - 1 + , F o r m u l a t i o n CP 1119 .____-.-Water-in-Silicone

s p i n d l e 3,

rpm 3 )

Lotion

In g r e d i e n t s : A D i m e t h i c o n e , 100 c S t Cyc 1omet h icone Cyclomethicone (and) dimethicone c o p o l y o l F o r m u l a t i o n A i d 3225C) A r l a c e l P135 PEG-30 d i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e Span 80 s o r b i t a n o l e a t e A r l a t o n e T PEG-40 s o r b i t a n p e r o l e a t e Propylene g l y c o l

Wt% 12.0 10.0 (Dow C o r n i ng

10.0 1.1 0.5 0.2 0.2 65.7 0.3

B ) Water Magnesi um s u l f a t e

C) P r e s e r v a t i v e

q.s

P r o c e d u r e: Heat ( A ) t o ( 8 ) t o 50C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h medium s t i r r i n g . Add ( C ) . Homogenize a t 30 second i n t e r v a l s u n t i l uniform. F o r m u l a t i o n CP1175

SOURCE:

I C I Americas:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions

277

O/W Body Lotion, Cold Processinq Comvonent: Wt% I Eumulgin VL 75/Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl2-Di-polyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin 4.5 Cetiol J 600/01eyl Erucate 4.0 Cetiol V/Decyl Oleate 3.0 Cetiol OE/Dicaprylyl Ether 2.0 Myritol 312/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 6.0 Dow Corning 1401 Fluid/Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol 1.0 I1 Glycerin 86% 2.4 Carbopol 980 2 % sol./Carbomer 15.0 KOH 20% 0.6 Water 61.5 q.s. Preservative/Perfume Viscosity mPas: 8,800 Preparation in the Laboratory/Cold Emulsifying Process: Mix phase I at room temperature, add the previously swollen Carbopol ( 2 % ) and the other components of phase I1 while stirring and homogenize. Duration and intensity of the homogenization depend upon the technical conditions. Finally neutralize with KOH. Formulation No.: 95/117/59 Liqht O/W Lotion

Wt% Component: I Eumulgin VL 75/Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin 4.5 1.0 Lanette O/Cetearyl Alcohol Cetiol J600/01eyl Erucate 3.0 Myritol 331/Cocoglycerides 6.0 Cetiol OE/Dicaprylyl Ether 2.0 Baysilon M 35O/Dimethicone 0.5 Monomuls 60-35 C/Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides 1.0 Carbopol ETD 2001/Carbomer 0.2 Copherol F 1300/Tocopherol 1.0 I1 Glycerin 86% 2.0 0.5 KOH 20% Water 78.3 q.s. Preservative/perfume Viscosity mPas: approx. 10,000 Preparation in the Laboratory: Heat phase I to 80C. Heat phase I1 to 80C and add the oil phase while stirring. Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring. The stirring rate must be selected in such a way that the emulsion is kept in continual motion without developing a so-called "stirring cone". Add the Carbopol into the oil phase. Neutralize at 40C. Add preservative and perfume at room tempera ture. Formulation No.: 97/004/25 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations

218

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Lotion for SDrav ADDliCatiOn

Component: wt% -1. Emulgade SE/Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 ( and 1 Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate 4.5 Eumulgin BZ/Ceteareth-ZO 1.0 Cetiol LC/Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 5.0 Cetiol OE/Dicaprylyl Ether 5.0 84.5 I1 Water, demin. Preservative q.s. Viscosity, 23C. mPas: t l O O Brookfield Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Heat phase I to 85C and stir until homogeneous. 2. Heat phase I1 to 85C and stir slowly into phase I. 3. Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring; the stirring rate must be selected in such a way that the emulsion is kept in continual motion and no air is trapped. 4. Add preservative if necessary. Stop stirring at 30C. Formulation No. 93/060/24 Soft O/W Body Lotion Comoonent: wt% I. Emulgade SE/Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate 8.0 2.0 Eumulgin B Z/Ceteareth-20 Mandelol/Almond oil 2.0 Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol 2.0 Cetiol 868/0ctyl Stearate 8.0 I1 .Water 55.0 Glycerin 86% 5.0 III.Carbopo1 980 2 % swelling/Carbomer 15.0 9.0 1V.NaOH (1% S o l ) q.s. Preservative Viscosity, mPas: 8000 Brookfield, 23C Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Melt phase I at 85C and stir until homogeneous. 2 . Melt phase I1 at 85C and stir slowly into phase I. Stir at temperature for min. 3. Allow the emulsion to cool until 50C with stirring and add phase 111. Stir until homogeneous. 4. Neutralize with phase IV. Allow to cool to 30C with stirring. Formulation No. 93/021/22

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations

Lotions

Oil-in-Water

219

Stearic Acid Lotion

A r l a c e l 165 p r o d u c e s a s t a b l e l o t i o n w h i c h i s made even more e l e g a n t by t h e a d d i t i o n o f A r l a m o l E . Ingredients: W O A . S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed 2.0 t o 4.0 Arlamol E 2.0 A r l a c e l 165 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e and PEG-100 S t e a r a t e 5.0 6 . S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP 10.0 Water 79.0 t o 8 1 . 0 Preservative q.s. Preparation: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) s l o w l y t o ( A ) w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l c o o l e d t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . R e p l a c e water l o s t by evaporation. F o r m u l a SK-2a Hand L o t i o n

I naredi ent s :

Wt%

A.

Liaht mineral o i l 8.0 Ariamol E 3.0 A r l a c e l 165 5.0 M y r j 52, PEG-40 S t e a r a t e 2.0 B r i j 30, L a u r e t h - 4 1.o 6 . Water 76.4 S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP 4.0 Carbomer 934 0.3 C . Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n , 10% aqueous 0.3 D. Preservative q.s. P r e p a r a t ion : D i s p e r s e Carbomer 934 w i t h a g i t a t i o n and h e a t t o 72C. Heat (A) t o 7 0 C . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C). Add ( D ) b e l o w 5OC. S t i r t o 35C and r e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by evaporation. Formula SK-3 Hand L o t i o n Ingredients: Wt% A r l a m o l E pop 15 s t e a r y l e t h e r 8.0 A r l a s o l v e 200 L i q u i d (72% a c t i v e ) poe 20 i s o h e x a d e c y l ether 1.7 2.8 B r i j 7 2 poe 2 s t e a r y l e t h e r S t e a r y l a l c o h o l , USP 2.0 8 . Water, d e i o n i z e d 85.1 Carbomer 934 0.2 C . NaOH (10% w / w aqueous) 0.2 D . Perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e q.s. Preparation: D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e w a t e r . Heat ( A ) t o 7 0 C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) between 35-4OC. Pour a b o u t 35C. F o r m u l a A€-10 SOURCE: ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s A.

2.220

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Si

1 ky- H a n d L o t ion

T h i s l i g h t l o t i o n g o e s on smooth, silicone-fortified barrier

Pa_rL :A

B

c

and leaves a non-greasy,

wto/, 2.0 0.5 2.0 3.0 1.5 0.5 2.0 1. o

I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Nam-e P h e n y l T r i m e t h i c o n e / M a s i 1 SF 7 5 6 D i m e t h i c o n e / M a s i 1 SF 1 0 0 Isopropyl Palmitate/Lexol IPM M i n e r a l O i 1/ D r a k o l 9 C e t y l Alcohol/CO-1695 S t e a r i c A c i d / E m e r s c l 132 C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 / M a c o l CSA-20 S o r b i t a n Stearate/S-Maz 20 Dei o n i zed Water Glycerin P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l H y d r o x y p r o p y l Methylcellulose/Methocel Triethanolamine Preservative/Germaben Fragrance C i t r i c Acid

40-100

I1

80.3 3.0 3.0 0.1 0.3

0.6 0.1 0.1

pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 3 1 , 0 0 0 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d #2 @ 1 . 5 rpm) 2 3 , 0 0 0 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d # 3 @ 3 r p m ) Appearance: G l o s s y w h i t e , f l o w a h l e l o t i o n

Procedure: Premix P a r t A; h e a t t o 6OC. I n t h e main v e s s e l ; m i x t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s of P a r t B . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 6 0 C ; a d d t h e t r i ethanolamine t o i n i t i a t e hydration o f t h e hydroxypropyl methylc e l l u l o s e . W i t h b o t h p a r t s a t 60C, s l o w l y a d d A t o B w i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g . Sweep cool t o 3 5 C ; a d d i n g t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s a t a r o u n d 40-45C. F o r m u l a t i o n 1-204

SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Skin Lotion

Wt%

Raw

A:

Materials: Mineral o i l A m i t e r LGOD Propylene g l y c o l s t e a r a t e PEG-5 H y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l PEG-5 G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e B u t y l paraben Amihope L L

5.00 2.00 0.50 1.50 2.50 0.10 3.00

0.30 0.20 0,08 5.00 0.20 balance

B: A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 Carbomer 941 Sodi um h y d r o x i d e Butylene g l y c o l Methyl paraben Water Procedure: D i s s o l v e Carbomer 941 and sodium h y d r o x i d e i n Add o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s o f ( 8 ) t o t h e s o l u t i o n and 75-8OC. D i s s o l v e ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 8OC and add a g i t a t i o n . Cool down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h s t Formula No. NON-404

water f i r s t . d i s s o ve a t A) t o (6) w i t h r r i ng

Moi sture L o t i on

Raw M a t e r i a l s : A:

Squalane Beeswax Propylene g l y c o l s t e a r a t e G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE POE(15) G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e POE(30) G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e

B:

A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 Propylene g l y c o l Prodew 1 0 0 Methyl paraben Water

Wt% 34.5 1.5 1.5 3.0 4.0 2.0

0.2 5.0 2.0 0.2 balance

Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) and ( 8 ) r e s p e c t i v e l y a t 8 0 - 8 5 C . Add ( A ) t o ( 8 1 , s t i r . Cool down t o 50C w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n by homomixer and t h e n t o 35C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . N o t e : Spreads w e l l on t h e s k i n and p r o v i d e s v e r y e m o l l i e n t and moisturizing touch. Formula No. NCC-1003-1

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U , S . A , , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

222

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

S-olar P r o t e c t i o n L o t i o n

Wt%*

Ingredient: A : Dimethicone Hydroxyoctocosanyl Hydroxystearate P o t a s s i u m C e t y l Phosphate ( A m p h i s o l K ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( a n d ) C12-15 A l k y l Benzoate (Tiovei 1 FIN) Sorbitan Palmitate D i l a u r y l Trimethyolpropane S i l o x y S l i c a t e

12.50 3.50 5.00

0 : D e i o n i z e d Water Veegum U l t r a , Magnesium Aluminum S i R h o d i g e l , Xanthan Gum Propylene Glycol P o l y s o r b a t e 20 Sodi urn L a c t a t e L a c t i c A c i d t o pH 5 . 5

63.10 0.80 0.20 5.00 3.50 0.30 9.s.

C:

ic a t e

2.00 3.50 0.50

Methylchloroisothiazolinone ( a n d ) M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e ( K a t h o n CG)

0.10

Procedure: Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 75C. M i x w i t h a homogenizer o p e r a t i n g a t 5 0 0 0 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l , add them t o t h e w a t e r and m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x each f o r 3 m i n u t e s . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75C. Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m i x and h e a t t o 75C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t 8 . M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5 0 0 0 rpm. T r a n s f e r t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o c r e a t e a s m a l l v o r t e x . B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g a t 40C, add P a r t C . Package a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e . N o t e : A v o i d pH o f 6 . 5 - 7 . 5 a s t h i s may a f f e c t SPF v a l u e . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , Ltd.

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n from A&E Connock,

Lotions

223

Ult-ra-AHA Mo.ist.uriz.i.n~g S k i n . L o t i o n Formul a P r o f i 1 e : The s y n e r g i s t i c m i x t u r e o f Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l w i l l c r e a t e an AHA cream t h a t w i l l have g r e a t s p r e a d a b i l i t y and f e e l w i t h o u t t h e t a c k and s t r i n g i n e s s c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f R h o d i g e l . Veegum U l t r a w i l l i m p r o v e s t a b i l i t y and m a i n t a i n v i s c o s i t y o f t h e p r o d u c t . The e m o l l i e n t s i n t h e o i l phase and t h e h u m e c t a n t s i n t h e w a t e r phase w i l l s u p p o r t l a s t i n g r e s i d u a l s k i n f e e l and moi s t u r i z a t i o n . Wt% I n q r e d i en-ts: A : Water 70.64 1 .o Veegum U l t r a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ) Xanthan Gum ( R h o d i g e l ) 0.5 B: Glycerin 3.0 B u t y l ene G l y c o l 2.0 C: Cetyl Alcohol 1.o G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e S E (Dermacare MS SE) 3.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Neobee M-5) 5.0 C12-15 O c t a n o a t e ( F i n e s t e r EH-25) 1. o D i m e t h i c o n e (DC-200 f l u i d - 3 5 0 c t s ) 1. o Steareth-2 ( B r i j 72) 0.83 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 ( B r i j 721 ) 0.83 D: P r e s e r v a t i v e qs 7.0 E: Glycolic Acid F: F r a g r a n c e qs G: Triethanolamine 3.2 qs C i t r i c Acid A d j u s t pH t o 3.8t-0.2 Procedure: S t e p 1 : D r y b l e n d Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l i n P a r t A . ( D r y b l e n d i n g r e d u c e s t h e c l u m p i n g o f R h o d i g e l and a l l o w s f o r t h e s i m u l t a n e o u s i n t r o d u c t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t s ) , S i f t t h e powder i n t o an e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n t h e w a t e r . Veegum U l t r a w i l l be h y d r a t e d w i t h i n 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w a b o u t 45 m i n u t e s f o r R h o d i g e l t o dissolve completely. The a d d i t i o n o f any o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum U l t r a and w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d by t h e Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e . S t e p 2: B e g i n h e a t i n g w a t e r phase i n S t e p 1 t o 75C. S t e p 3 : Once t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s i s c o m p l e t e d , add r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s f r o m P a r t B t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 4 : B l e n d o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t C and h e a t t h e o i l phase t o 75C. S t e p 5 : When b o t h phases a r e a t 75C, add o i l phase i n S t e p 4 t o w a t e r phase S t e p 2 . S t e p 6 : Cool t o 4512. Add P a r t D - P r e s e r v a t i v e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 7: Add P a r t E - A H A - G l y c o l i c A c i d t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 8 : Add P a r t F - F r a g r a n c e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 9 : Cool t o 35C. A d j u s t pH w i t h p a r t G . V i s c o s i t y : 5 0 , 0 0 0 ~ - 1 0 , 0 0 0 c p s a f t e r 24 h o u r s . pH: 3 . 6 - 4 . 0 S t a b l e e m u l s i o n t h a t passes 3 month s t a b i l i t y t e s t i n g . SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 4 7 0

224

Cosmetic and Toi/efry Formulations

Ultra-AHA M o i s t u r i z i n g S k i n L o t i o n Formula P r o f i l e : The s y n e r g i s t i c m i x t u r e o f Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l w i l l c r e a t e an AHA cream t h a t w i l l have g r e a t s p r e a d i b i l i t y and f e e l w i t h o u t t h e t a c k and s t r i n g i n e s s c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f R h o d i g e l . Veegum U l t r a w i l l i m p r o v e s t a b i l i t y and m a i n t a i n t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e p r o d u c t . The e m o l l i e n t s i n t h e o i l phase and t h e humecta n t s i n t h e w a t e r phase w i l l p r o v i d e r e s i d u a l s k i n f e e l and moi s t u r i z a t i o n . Inaredients: wt% A : Water 73 34 Veegum U l t r a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ) 1.5 R h o d i g e l ( X a n t h a n Gum) 0.5 6: Glycerin 3.0 B u t y l ene G1 y c o l 2.0 C: Cetyl Alcohol 1,o G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE (Dermacare MS S E ) 3.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Neobee M-5) 5.0 C12-15 O c t a n o a t e ( F i n e s t e r EH-25) 1.o D i m e t h i c o n e (DC-200 f l u i d - 3 5 0 c t s ) 1.o Steareth-2 ( B r i j 72) 0.83 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 ( B r i j 721) 0.83 D: P r e s e r v a t i v e qs 7.0 E: Glycolic Acid F: Fragrance qs G: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 3.2 C i t r i c Acid A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 8 1 - 0 . 2 qs Procedure: S t e p 1 : D r y b l e n d Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l i n P a r t A . ( D r y b l e n d i n g r e d u c e s t h e c l u m p i n g o f R h o d i g e l and a l l o w s f o r t h e s i m u l t a n e o u s i n t r o d u c t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t s ) . S i f t t h e powder i n t o an e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n t h e w a t e r . Veegum U l t r a w i l l be h y d r a t e d w i t h i n 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w a b o u t 45 m i n u t e s f o r R h o d i g e l t o dissolve completely. The a d d i t i o n o f any o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum U l t r a and w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d b y t h e Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e . S t e p 2 : B e g i n h e a t i n g w a t e r phase i n S t e p 1 t o 75C. S t e p 3 : Once t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s i s c o m p l e t e d , add r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s f r o m P a r t B t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 4 : B l e n d o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase C and h e a t t h e o i l phase t o 75C. S t e p 5 : When b o t h phases a r e a t 75C, add o i l phase i n S t e p 4 t o w a t e r phase S t e p 2 , S t e p 6 : Cool t o 45C. Add P a r t D - P r e s e r v a t i v e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 7 : Add P a r t E - A H A - G l y c o l i c A c i d t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 8 : Add P a r t F - F r a g r a n c e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 9 : Cool t o 35C. A d j u s t pH w i t h P a r t G . Product S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LVT: 60,000+-10,000 c p s a f t e r 24 h o u r s pH: 3 . 6 - 4 . 0 T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a s t a b l e e m u l s i o n - p a s s e s 3 month t e s t i n g SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 476 I

Lotions

225

Vani s h i ng_Lot __ ion

a

r ed ien t s :

A:

A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e Stearyl alcohol A r l a m o l E , POP ( 1 5 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r D i m e t h i c o n e , 350 c s . B r i j 7 0 0 , POE ( 1 0 0 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 , POE ( 2 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r

B: Water Carbomer 934 Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e s o l u t i o n ( 5 % aqueous) C:

Sodi um h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0% aqueous)

Kt %

4.00 1.DO 1

.oo

0.50 2.00 2.00 79.05 0.15 10.00 0.15

D: P r e s e r v a t i v e

0.10

E: F r a g r a n c e

0.05

Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n : Heat A t o 7 0 C and B t o 72C. Add B t o A w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add C . Add D b e l o w 50C. Add E a t 35C and add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Comments ; T h i s f o r m u l a w o u l d be s u i t a b l e f o r a hand l o t i o n . I t i s n o n - g r e a s y and has a v e r y p l e a s a n t a f t e r f e e l . I t i s r e l a t i v e l y i n e x p e n s i v e s i n c e i t c o n t a i n s n e a r l y 90% w a t e r . T h i s f o r m u l a i s s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t 1 3 weeks a t 5 C , and room t e m p e r a t u r e and f o r a t l e a s t s i x f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s .

__ Emollient ___-_ Lotion -_ Wt%

m r e d i ents : A : A r l a m o l E pop 1 5 s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 72 poe 2 s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 721 poe 2 1 s t e a r y l e t h e r

12.0 4.8 1.2

8 : Water,

82.0

C:

deionized

Perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e

9.s.

Preparation: H e a t ( A ) t o 7 0 C and ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y . Add ( C ) a t a b o u t 40C. Pour a b o u t 35C. F o r m u l a t i o n AE-9

SOURCE: ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

226

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Velvet Care-Lotion Wt% Ingredients: Phase A: 2.0 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 4 5 0 ) 2.0 A p r i c o t 011 1.o S a f f 1 ower 01 1 3.5 C y c l ometh i cone 3.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 2.0 Octyl Stearate (Tegosoft 0 s ) Rose E x t r a c t Q.S. P.S. Lavender E x t r a c t Phase B: G1y c e r i n 3.0 82.1 Water Phase C : 0.2 Carbomer 941 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) 0.8 Phase D : Sodium H y d r o x i d e (10% s o l u t i o n ) 0.4 Phase E : Q.S. Fragrance Preservatives P.S. Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 8OC. 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o 8OC. 3 . Add A t o B w i t h a -a i t a t i o n . 4 . Homogeni ze 5 . D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A/E. Homogenize. 6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add phase D / E . S t i r . 8 . Mix u n t i l v i s c o s i t y p r o f i l e i s obtained.

J.n_ar_e_d_i entsi.

ol_w-.AH.A-LQtion. w_i.th LaC_ti.c..A&i-d

Wto/, Phase A : C e t e a r e t h - 1 5 ( a n d ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Tego Care 215) 6.0 Mineral O i l 4.0 Octyl Stearate (Tegosoft 0 s ) 5.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Tegosoft CT) 5.0 S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (Tego A l k a n o l 1 8 ) 5.0 Phase 8 : Glycerin 3.0 69.65 Water Phase C : L a c t i c A c i d (85%) 2.35 Q.S. NaOH (10% a q . s o l u t i o n ) Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S. Procedure: Heat A and B t o 8OC and m i x . Homogenize. Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 40C. Add Phase C and c o o l t o 30C o r l o w e r . A d j u s t pH t o 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 w i t h NaOH.

SOURCE:

G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions

227

Cleansing Lotion w i t h Ethanol

Water:in-Oi_l

n i . pA::a:?P-l35, PEG-30 D i p o l yhydroxystearate Arlaaol HD, Isohexadecane Caprylic/caprio t r i g l y c e r i d e s 01o c t y l adi pat e Mineral o i l S i l i c a dimethyl s i l y l a t e

B) G l y c e r i n

w b 3.5 8.0 2.0 2.0 8.0 0.5 4.0

MgS04-7H20, Magnesium s u l f a t e Water Preservative, Quaternium 15

0.5 48.5 9.5.

25.0 9.5.

C) Ethanol Perfume

Procoduro: Heat (A) and (8) t o 75C t o 85C. Slowly add ( 8 ) t o (A) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Honoyenize thoroughly f o r 1 minute. Allow t o cool t o t30C w h i l e s t i r r j n y . Add phase (C) slowly w h i l e s t i r r i n g intensively

.

Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 7,000 mPa s (Brookftuld LVt/spinJla Cfrpm 6) Formula CP 1193 HydrgaJcotipl i q . f#ipbi knwsd.i..ant 8: A Isopropyl l a n o l a t e Arlasoive 200 i i q u i d (72% a c t i v e ) poe 20 isohexadecyl

1 .0

3.9

Utlt6r

Arlamol E pop 15 s t a a r y l ether 6 Hydroxyethyl c e l u I one Carbomer 934

Water, deionized C NaOH (10% W D Alcohol,

vy

%$~ Waqueous)

SDA Formula No. 40

8.0 0.2 0.5 54.9

0.5 20.0

Proparation: ;tl half o f Heat (A) to 75C. Disperse H y c J c ~ o x y e l I i y l ~ ~ l 1 u 1 u tOI the water a i d Carbomer 934 t n the olliet h a l f , co~nbirie. H e a l ( 8 ) l o 75C. Add ( 8 ) l u (A) w i l h J y i L a t i u n . S l i t . f i v e minute& acid rdd (C;. Cool to 3SC and add (0). S t i r t o room Lempevrture. F ~ ttlul I a AE-8 SOURCE: I C I Surfaotantr: Suygorted Formulation8

228

Cosmetic and Toiletry formulations

Water-In-Oil

Mineral O i l Lotions

F o r m u l a SK-6, a u n i q u e Gel Base, s e r v e s as a s t a r t i n g p o i n t i n f o r m u l a t i n g W/O emu1 s i ons w h i c h have e x c e p t i o n a l w a t e r r e p e l 1 ency and p l e a s a n t a p p l i c a t i o n f e e l w i t h o u t t h e u s u a l g r e a s i n e s s o r t a c k i n e s s c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f many W/O e m u l s i o n s . Gel Base Innredi ents: A A r l a c e l 186 G l y c e r o l O l e a t e and P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l B S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP Preservative

W B 10.0 90.0

q. s

Preparation : Add ( B ) t o ( A ) i n s m a l l i n c r e m e n t s , m i x i n g t h o r o u g h l y between a d d i t i o n s . As t h e a d d i t i o n i s c o n t i n u e d , t h e p r o d u c t t h i c k e n s t o form a viscous translucent g e l . F o r m u l a SK-6 W a t e r - i n-Oi 1 M i n e r a l O i 1 L o t i o n The Gel Base c o n c e p t o f f o r m u l a t i n g can be used i n p r e p a r i n g w a t e r - i n - o i l l o t i o n s w h i c h have t h e u n i q u e p r o p e r t y o f w a t e r r e p e l l e n c y w i t h o u t an o i l y f e e l . A s m a l l q u a n t i t y o f Tween 8 0 , a h y d r o p h i l i c s u r f a c t a n t , i s added t o p r o m o t e e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i t y . A l t h o u g h t h e Gel Base i n t h e f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a i s shown as a s e p a r a t e e n t i t y , i t may b e p r e p a r e d i n s i t u b y r e p l a c i n g t h e 30% Gel Base w i t h 2 7 % S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n and 3% A r l a c e l 186 ( t h e r a t i o o f 9 t o 1 shown i n F o r m u l a S K - 6 ) .

Ingredi e n t E A F o r m u l a SK-6 Gel Base Mineral o i l C e r e s i n wax Beeswax Tween 8 0 P o l y s o r b a t e 8 0 B Water Preservative

w v y J 30.0 15.0 0.5

0.5 0.5 53.5 9,s.

Preparation: Heat ( A ) t o 7 0 C . Heat ( 8 ) t o 7 2 C . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h c o n t i n uous a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Replace water l o s t by evaporation. F o r m u l a SK-7

SOURCE:

ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions

Wt-%

hXLEd.ient3.;. A:

229

1.3

Veegum Water Magnesium S u l p h a t e

55.7

0.5 9.0 10.0 7.5 9.0

8: M i n e r a l O i 1 , L i g h t Polysynlane Nimlesterol D Amerchol L101 70% S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n W i tcamide 511

5.0 2.0

Preservative

4,s.

Procedure: Add t h e Veegum t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l s m o o t h . Add t h e magnesium s u l p h a t e a n d m i x u n t i l s m o o t h . B l e n d B w e l l a n d a d d A t o B; m i x u n t i l s m o o t h and u n i f o r m . Packaging: T h i s f o r m u l a is a r i c h , p o u r a b l e o r p u m p a b l e l o t i o n a n d may be dispensed f r o m a s u i t a b l e g l a s s o r p l a s t i c b o t t l e . Comments : T h i s f o r m u l a i s an e l e g a n t , e c o n o m i c a l , a n d e a s i l y p r e p a r e d water-in-oil l o t i o n for s o f t e n i n g a n d m o i s t u r i z i n g d r y s k i n . The u s e o f Veegum as an e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i z e r a l l o w s a r e l a t i v e l y l a r g e i n t e r n a l phase w i t h o u t s a c r i f i c i n g p r o d u c t s t a b i l i t y . ? h e amount o f Veegum u s e d c o n t r o l s t h e v i s c o s i t y . I n a d d i t i o n , Veegum c o n t r i b u t e s t o t h e r i c h , n o n g r e a s y f e e l i m p a r t e d b y t h e h i g h l y e m o l l i e n t o i l phase. T h i s f o r m u l a w o u l d make an e l e g a n t a d d i t i o n t o a t r e a t m e n t l i n e as a super m o i s t u r i z e r f o r d r y s k i n . The CTFA a d o p t e d name f o r Veegum i s magnesium a l u m i n u m s i l l cate.

Hand L0-t-i on I ngr_edl e n t s : G l y c e r y l Monostearate ( S . E . ) C e t y l A1 coho1 S i l i c o n e 2 0 0 Oil L a n o l i n 0 11 Polysynlane Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e P r e s e r v a t i ve Water SOURCE: P o l y e s t e r C o r p . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

i(Jt %

ad.

2.7 I .5 1.5 2.0 3.0 0.3 0.2 100.0

Section Vlll Shampoos

230

Shampoos

231

_________ A n t i - D a n d r u f f Shampoo w i t h Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e T h i s a n t i - d a n d r u f f shampoo, w h i c h c o n t a i n s c a t i o n i c c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s , uses z i n c p y r i t h i o n e as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t . The z i n c p y r i t h i o n e i s k e p t suspended u s i n g C a r b o p o l ETO 2020. W S I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 38.90 2 . Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 1.oo 3 . Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 8 % ) 0.10 Part B: 4. Propylene Glycol 5.00 5. Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 2 9 % ) / S t a n d a p o l WAQ-LC 16.00 6 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 3 m o l e , 3O%)/Standapol ES-3 16.00 7 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e / I n c r o n a m 30 4.00 Part C: 8 . D e i o n i z e d Water 12.00 9 . P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - l O / U c a r e Polymer JR-400 0.25 0.30 1 0 . DMDM H y d a n t o i n/G1 y d a n t 1 1 Sodi urn H y d r o x i d e ( 18%) 1.30 Part D: 12.Polyquaterniurn-39/Merquat 3330 1.oo 1 3 . D i m e t h i c o n e Copolyol/Dow C o r n i n g 5324 F l u i d 0.20 1 4 . Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e ( 4 8 % ) / Z i n c Ornadine FPS 2 50 1 5 . F r a g r a n c e / S p i c y F l o r a l F r a g r a n c e #A41073 0.40 IG.FD&C B l u e #I( 0 . 1 % ) 1 .05 C o l o r , Odor, Appearance: Opaque, l i g h t b l u e , v i s c o u s l i q u i d A c t i v e s (190): 1 1 . 1 4 pH: 5 . 8 - 6 . 2 V i s c o s i t y (cP) : 6,000-9,000 Y i e l d V a l u e ( d y n e s / c m 2 ) : 180-250 S t a b i l i t y : Passed 45C, a c c e l e r a t e d - 2 8 days Freeze/thaw-5 c y c l e s P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: Part A: 1 . D i s p e r s e Carbopol ETD 2020 i n warm (45C) d e i o n i z e d w a t e r u s i n g r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Reduce m i x i n g speed and m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s . P a r t i a l l y n e u t r a l i z e w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e . Part B: 2 . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r t o P a r t A u s i n g s l o w m i x i n g . P a r t C: 3 . D i s p e r s e Ucare JR-400 i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r ( h e a t t o h e l p h y d r a t i o n ) . Add G l y d a n t and sodium h y d r o x i d e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t C t o b a t c h . P a r t D: 4 . Add P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r t o b a t c h . Special Notes & Precautions: 1 . Do n o t u s e a c h e l a t i n g a g e n t as t h i s w i l l d e a c t i v a t e t h e z i n c pyrithione. 2 . When u s i n g z i n c p y r t h i o n e , be s u r e i t i s u n i f o r m and has n o t frozen. 3 . Assay f o r z i n c p y r i t h i o n e c a n be p e r f o r n i e d u s i n g an i o d i n e t i t r a t i o n . C a l l O l i n (203-271-4000) f o r t h e p r o c e d u r e . SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o , : F o r m u l a t i o n COO75

.

I

232

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

C l e a r an_d M i l d Shampop T h i s shampoo i s n e a r w a t e r - w h i t e i n c l a r i t y a n d c o l o r . T h e a m p h o t e r i c s u r f a c t a n t , i n c o m b i n a t i o n w i t h SLES a n d ALS, i s the basis o f t h i s gentle-cleansing formula. Addition o f only 0 . 6 0 w t % B e n e c e l HPMC i s n e e d e d t o b o o s t t h e v i s c o s i t y from 2 , 9 0 0 c p s (mPas) t o 9 , 5 0 0 c p s ( m P a s ) , y i e l d i n g a r i c h , h i g h l y v i s c o u s shampoo t h a t p o u r s s m o o t h l y . T h i s i s p o s s i b l e d u e t o t h e t h i c k e n i n g e f f i c i e n c y o f Benecel and t h e p s e u d o p l a s t i c rheology i t imparts Ingredients: D i s t i l l e d water Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e , 30% D i s o d 1 um c o c o a m p h o d i a c e t a t e , 50% S o d i u m l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 60% B e n e c e l MP 9 4 3 R DMDM h y d a n t o i n Methyl paraben Citric acid

Wt%

q.s. t o 1 0 0 . 0 0 27.50 6.90 5,70 0.60 0.30 0.10 t o pH 5 . 5

Procedure: 1 D i s p e r s e Benecel b y a d d i n g t o t h e v o r t e x o f w e l l - a g i t a t e d w a t e r . H e a t i n g t o 40-4513 w i l l a c c e l e r a t e h y d r a t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y dissolved. 2 . I n a separate c o n t a i n e r , d i s p e r s e t h e methyl paraben i n t h e DMDM h y d a n t o i n . Add t o t h e B e n e c e l s o l u t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y dissolved 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , o n e a t a t i m e , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s . 4 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5 When t e m p e r a t u r e f a l l s t o b e l o w 40C, a d d f r a g r a n c e . S t a b i l i t y o f C l e a r and M i l d Shampoo V i s c o s i t y , c p s (mPas) B r o o k f i e l d LVT, 3 0 r p m , 25C Room T e m p e r a t u r e 50C -_---24 h o u rs 9,120 __-___ 3 days 9,850 11,900 11,900 1 week 11,700 10,800 2 weeks 4 weeks 12,500 11,300 T h i s shampoo e x h i b i t e d n o c h a n g e a f t e r e x p o s u r e to t h r e e freeze-thaw cycles SOURCE: A q u a l o n D i v i s i o n / H e r c u l e s

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n BO2-04W

Shampoos

233

Coconut S h m o o (35% Real Soap) Emery 621 Coconut Fatty Acid (acid value 263) Caustic potash (100%) Water

Wt% 29.6 7.9

to 100.0

Procedure: Dissolve the caustic in the necessary amount of water, heating to 49-54C (120-130F), then add the fatty acid in a slow steady stream. Agitate while mixing the fatty acid and caustic until saponification is complete. The reaction mixture should be heated to 66-71C (150-160F) during the final stages of saponification. Check the neutrality of the soap and adjust as necessary. Perfume as desired. Allow the soap to stand and settle for several days at near freezing temperatures, if possible, and decant or filter the soap. Properties and Variations: This soap is characterized by its clarity and profuse sudsing. If it clouds on standing, a trace of sequestering agent (0.1-0.5%) will restore brilliance. Alcohol may be substituted for a portion of the water in any of these formulas. Alcohol will improve clarity and increase the resistance of the soap to low temperature precipitation and gel formation, but it will also reduce foaming. Carbitol, glycerine, and various glycols may be used to increase the viscosity of the soap. Perfumes are generally used in small amounts to impart a distinctive and pleasant odor. Coconut-Oleic Shampoo (35% Real Soap) Emery 621 Coconut Fatty Acid (acid value 263) Emersol 221 Oleic Acid (acid value 203) Caustic potash (100%) Water

a

15.1 15.1 7.1 to 100.0

Procedure: Blend coconut and oleic acids and proceed as for the formulation above, Coconut Shampoo. Perfume as desired. Properties and Variations: This shampoo exhibits good foaming and foam stability. It will have only a trace of color. If a gold-colored shampoo is preferred, use of Emersol 210 Oleic Acid (A) is suggested. SOURCE: Henkel Corp., Emery Group: Fatty Acids and Their Water Soluble Soaps: Suggested Formulations

234

Cosmetic and Toiletfy Formulations

Cream Shampoo T h i s opaque shampoo i s a s o f t cream s u i t a b l e f o r t u b e d i s p e n s i n g . M i l d i n g r e d i e n t s such as Jordapon C I - 7 5 , Mafo CSB-50, and Mazox CAPA make t h i s system g e n t l e enough t o use e v e r y d a y .

Part: A

I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Dei o n i zed Water Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / J o r d a p o n CI-75 Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e / S t e p a n o l WA-Extra G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e / M a p e g EGMS Sodium I s e t h i o n a t e , 5 6 % / W i t c o n a t e N I S M e t h y l Paraben Na4EDTA

Wt$ 58.9

19.2 6.7 2.0 3.0 0.2 0.2

Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e / M a f o CSB-50 Cocamidopropyl Amine Oxide/Mazox C A P A P r o p y l ene G 1 y c o l Cocami d e DEA/Mazami de JT-128

2.0 3.3 2.0 2.0

Q u a t e r n i um 15/Dowi c i 1 200 Fragrance C i t r i c Acid

0.2 0.3

Q.S.

pH: 6.2-6.7 V i s c o s i t y : 1 0 0 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d T B C 0 . 3 rpm) Appearance: W h i t e p e a r l e s c e n t s o f t cream

Procedure: B l e n d t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t i n g t o 65C t o d i s s o l v e a l l s o l i d s . Remove t h e h e a t and add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . When u n i f o r m , c o o l t o 40C and add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s . P r o d u c t w i l l b e n o n - v i s c o u s a t f i r s t , and w i l l d e v e l o p i n t o a cream o v e r n i g h t .

SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n A - 1 1 3

Shampoos

235

Crystal Clear Conditioninq ShamDoos These are crystal clear, mild formulations. Sandopan DTC acid is a multi-functional surfactant which also improves the cationic deposition of cationic polymers. By reducing the wash-off of the cationic polymer, Sandopan DTC acid can improve conditioning of the hair and skin. Crystal Clear Luxury Shampoo Inqredients: wt% Standapol A 33.00 Sandopan DTC Acid 8.00 *Monamid 716 3.00 *Polymer JR 30M 0.25 Versene NA 0.10 Glydant 0.50 Deionized Water 55.10 Fragrance 0.05 Potassium Hydroxide (To pH=5.5) qs Properties: Viscosity: 2500 Ross Miles Foam Height: 195/190 % Solids: 22.50 *Viscosity can be altered by increasing/decreasing Polymer JR or Monamid 716. Crvstal Clear Conditionins ShamDoo Inqredients: Wt% Standapol A 33.00 Sandopan DTC Acid 8.00 *Monamid 716 3.00 *Polymer JR 30M 0.50 Versene NA 0.10 Glydant 0.50 Deionized Water 52.85 Fragrance 0.05 Potassium Hydroxide (To pH=5.5) qs Properties: Viscosity: 3000 Ross Miles Foam Height: 190/185 % Solids: 22.75 *Viscosity can be altered by increasing/decreasing Polymer JR or Monamid 716. Procedure: Hydrate Polymer JR in about 1/2 of the water by slowly sifting it in with moderate stirring. In a separate vessel, add the Sandopan DTC acid to the other 1/2 of the water. Neutralize this mixture to pH=5.5 with potassium hydroxide. Add remaining ingredients in order, mixing well after each addition. Finally, add the polymer solution and mix well. Adjust final pH to 5.5-6.0 if needed. SOURCE: Clariant Carp.: Ref: CL29-49: CHS-40, 41

236

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Deodorizing Shampoo Inqredients: Wt$ Phase A : Water 32.60 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (28%) 17.50 Sodium Laureth Sulfate (28% 2M E.O.) 20.00 2.50 PEG-20 Glyceryl Laurate (Tagat L ) 2.50 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Tegosoft GC) 2.50 PEG-18 Glyceryl Oleate/Cocoate (Antil 171) Glycol Distearate (Tegin EGS) 3.00 Zinc Ricinoleate (and) Triethanolamine (and) 1.80 Dipropylene Glycol (and) Lactic Acid (Tego Deo HY 77) Phase B: Water 10.00 Preservatives Q.S. Q.S. Fragrance 7.50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Tego Betaine L 7) Citric Acid (20% solution) to pH 7.0 Sodium Chloride (25% solution) Q.S. Procedure: 1. Heat Phase A to 70C. Add components in order, mixing well between additions. Avoid foam. 2. Beain coolins. Slowlv cool to 35-40C. Some of the water of Phase B can 6 e used t o start the cooling. 3. Add the ingredients of Phase B. 4. Adjust pH and viscosity. Conditioninq Shampoo for Treated Hair Inqredients: wt% Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1 41.5 Water Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (28% 2M. E.O.) 20.0 25.0 Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (28%) Quaternium-80 (Abil Quat 3272) 0.3 Dimethicone Copolyol (Abil B 8851) 0.3 0.3 Dimethicone Copolyol (Abil B 88183) 1.0 Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine (Abil B 9950) to pH 6.5 Citric Acid Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. Color Q.S. Preservative 1.5 PEG-18 Glyceryl Oleate/Cocoate (Antil 171) 7.0 Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Tego Betaine L-7) 3.0 Glycol Distearate (and) Steareth-4 (Tego Pearl N 100) Q.S. Ammonium Chloride (25% solution) Procedure: 1. Dissolve the Tetrasodium EDTA in the water. 2. Add ingredients in order, mixing between additions. Avoid air entrapment. 3. Slowly mix in the Antil 171. Mix until dispersed. 4. Add the Tego Betaine L-7. 5. Add the Tego Pearl N 100. 6. Adjust viscosity with the 25% solution of Ammonium Chloride SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulations

Shampoos

237

Frequent Use ShamDoo This pearlescent shampoo provides gentle cleansing with protective conditioning. Glucamate DOE-120 is used to thicken this mild cleansing system which contains cocoamphodiacetate and sulfosuccinate. Glucam E-20 and Ucare Polymer JR-400 have been included for humectance and conditioning, respectively. This formulation is recommended for normal to dry hair. Inqredients: Wt$ Texapon NSO (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) 7.00 Dehyton G (Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate) 3.00 Texapon SB-3 (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate) 1.00 Euperlan PK 3000-AM (Glycol Distearate and Laureth-4 and 1.00 Cocamidopropyl Betaine) Glucamate DOE-120 (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) 1.50 Deionized Water 84.30 Ucare Polymer JR-400 (Polyquaternium-10) 0.25 Glucam E-20 (Methyl Gluceth-20) 1.50 Sodium Chloride 0.45 Preservative and Fragrance q.s. Procedure: Disperse Ucare Polymer JR-400 in water with moderate agitation and gentle heating to 50C. Add Glucamate DOE-120 and continue heating until dissolved. Remove heat. Add the surfactants and Glucam E-20. Add preservative and fragrance. Adjust pH to 6.5. Package. Performance Data: Viscosity: 4,300 cps (ZOC, LVT, 3, 12 rpm) pH: 6.5 Formulation E941-129-10 Daily Use Shampoo Glucamate DOE-120 is used to thicken this mild surfactant system in conjunction with the lauryl glucoside. The cocamidopropyl betaine enhances the foam feel. Ucare Polymer LX provides the light conditioning effect desired in this daily use shampoo. In total, the washing active substances for this pearlescent formulation are 11%. Insredients: Wt% Standapol ES-2 (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) 24.00 Velvetex BK-35 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 6.00 Plantaren 1200 (Lauryl Glucosidel 5.00 Euperlan PK 3000-AM 1.50 Glucamate DOE-120 (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) 1.00 Ucare Polymer LK (Polyquaternium-10) 0.35 Deionized Water 61.85 Sodium Chloride 0.30 Preservative and Fragrance C3.s Procedure: Disperse Ucare Polymer LK in water with moderate agitation and gentle heating to 50C. Add Glucarnate DOE-120 and continue heating until the Glucamate DOE-120 has dissolved. Add the surfactants and the Euperlan with continued stirring. Add the sodium chloride, preservative and fragrance. Adjust the pH to 6.5. Package. Formulation E921-146-4 SOURCE: Amerchol: Suggested Formulations

238

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

1-nqredi e n t s : D i s t i 1l e d water S o d i u m l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 28% C o c a m i d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e , 35% S o d i u m l a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e , 30% PEG-1 50 d i s t e a r a t e B e n e c e l MP 943 R Monochloroisothiazolinone a n d m e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e ,

Wt.%

to 1 0 0 . 0 0 19.60 11 .oo 9.60 2.90 1.10 1.5% 0.08

Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e Benecel by adding t o t h e v o r t e x o f w e l l - a g i t a t e d w a t e r . H e a t i n g t o 40-45C w i l l a c c e l e r a t e h y d r a t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y dissolved. 2 . Add t h e s u r f a c t a n t s , one a t a t i m e , m i x i n g w e l l b e t w e e n e a c h addition. 3 . H e a t t o 7 0 - 7 5 C . Add t h e PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e . M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Turn h e a t o f f . 4 . When t e m p e r a t u r e r e a c h e s 40C o r b e l o w , a d d f r a g r a n c e and preservative. F o r m u l a B02-02W

Self-Adjusting

C o n d i t i o n i n g Shampoo

W t 010 Ingredients: q.s t o 100.00 D i s t i 1l e d water 22.25 T E A - l a u r y l s u l f a t e , 40% 7.10 D i h y d r o x y e t h y l t a l l o w g l y c i n a t e , 40% L a u r a m i d e DEA 3.50 Cocodimonium h y d r o l y z e d a n i m a l p r o t e i n 0.80 B e n e c e l MP 943 R 0.60 Methylchloroisothiazolinone and m e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e , 1.5% 0.08 C i t r i c acid t o pH 5 . 5

Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e Benecel by adding t o t h e v o r t e x o f w e l l - a g i t a t e d w a t e r . H e a t i n g t o 40-45C w i l l a c c e l e r a t e h y d r a t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y dissolved. 2 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , one a t a t i m e , m i x i n g w e l l between each a d d i t i o n . 3 . A d j u s t t o pH 5 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 4 . When t e m p e r a t u r e f a l l s t o b e l o w 40C, a d d f r a g r a n c e . F o r m u l a 802-03W

SOURCE: A q u a l o n D i v i s i o n ,

Hercules I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shampoos

239

Gentle Shamuoo This shampoo provides gentle and thorough cleansing, while imparting softness and manageability to hair. Inqredients: Water Sodium Chloride Sodium Laureth (2) Sulfate (25%) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (30%) Monalac MAB Monalac MPL

wt. 29.5 1.0 35.0 27.5 5.0 2.0

Adjust the pH to 6 . 0 Appearance: Clear viscous liquid Viscosity at 25C: 23,000 CP Solids ( % ) : 20 Features of Monalac MAB: Effective conditioning to skin and hair Provides mild cleansing High foaming primary surfactant Excellent viscosity building properties Anti-irritant for anionics and cationics Compatible with all surfactant types Gentle Shampoo This shampoo provides gentle and thorough cleansing, while imparting softness and manageability to hair Inqredients: Water Sodium Chloride Sodium Laureth (2) Sulfate (25%) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (30%) Monalac MO Monalac MPL Adjust the pH to 6.0 Appearance: Clear viscous liquid Viscosity at 25C: 7500 CP Solids ( % ) : 20 Features of Monalac MO: Lather and foam enhancement Extra conditioning for skin and hair Excellent viscosity building properties Contributes gentle cleansing Low irritation potential Cationic at acid pH

SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Wt%

29.5 1.0 35.0 27.5 5.0

2.0

240

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair and Body Shampoo Raw Materials: wt% Plantaren 2000 UP/Laurvl Glucose 5.0 Texapon NSO/Sodium Lauieth Sulfate 25.0 Gluadin WK/Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 8.0 Gluadin WQ/Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 3.0 Eumulgin L/PPG-l-PEG-9-Lauryl Glycol Ether Glucamate DOE 120 0.5 NaCl 1.5 ad 100 Water, preservative, perfume pH Value: 6.0 WAS: 12.5 Viscosity mPas: approx. 1500 Preparation: Mix all components successively at room temperature while stirring. The pH value is adjusted with citric acid. Formulation No. 94/218/28 Shampoo

Raw Materials: Texapon NSO/Sodium Laureth Sulfate Dehyton K/Cocamidopropyl Betaine Lamesoft PW 25/Cetyl Palmitate (and) Beheneth-10 (and) Hydrogenated Castor Oil (and) Glyceryl Stearate Cosmedia Guar C 261 N/Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride Methocel E4M Premium EP/Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Water Preservatives Viscosity mPas: 6000 pH value: 5.5

Wtrt;

40.0 12.5 5.0

0.25 1.5 40.75 n.B.

Preparation in the Laboratory: Of Methocel E4M Premium EP and Water has to be manufactured a clear swelling. In this swelling Cosmedia C 261 N has to be strewed and homogeneous distributed. With addition of citric acid the pH value will be slightly acidified, which means that Cosmedia Guar is also starting to swell. After completed swelling Texapon NSO, Dehyton K and Lamesoft PW 45 will be stirred homogeneous into the swelling. At the end the pH value will be focused. Formulation No. 96/020/3

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations

Shampoos

241

High Performance Low Irritation Shaumoo Inqredients: Plantaren 2000 Standapol EA-2 Velvetex BK-35 Nutrilan I Citric Acid Fragrance Water, preservative

s,wt/wt 15.0 15.0 12.5 1.5 to pH 6.0-6.5 q.s

Balance

Procedure: Charge kettle with water; while stirring, add the remaining ingredients in the order listed. Adjust viscosity with sodium chloride. NOTE: Gel-like viscosities can be obtained via use of thickeners, such as PEG-150 Distearate. Comments: This is a very high quality shampoo that combines very low irritation with excellent foam characteristics, while leaving the hair in a very manageable condition. Formula H-4999

Low Irritation Conditioning Shampoo Inqredients: Plantaren 2000 Standapol ES-2 Standamid KD Cetiol HE Cosmedia Guar C-261 Euperlan PK-810 Citric Acid Fragrance Water, preservative

$Wt/Wt 12.0 24.0 3.0 1.5 0.75 4.0 to pH 6.5 q.s.

Balance

Procedure: Charge kettle with water; while stirring, add the first three ingredients in the order listed. Pre-slurry the Cosmedia Guar C-261 and Cetiol HE, and add to the batch followed by the Euperlan PK-810. Adjust pH with citric acid and viscosity with sodium chloride or other viscosifiers. Comments: By taking advantage of the ability of Plantaren 2000 to enhance cationic polymer deposition, a mild 2 in 1 shampoo is created. Formula H-5001 SOURCE: Henkel Corp./Emery Group: Plantaren Suggested Formulations

242

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

____--__ Low-Cost Sham= An e c o n o m i c a l f o r m u l a t i o n w i t h a c o l d - m i x p r o v i d e s v e r y good p e r f o r m a n c e .

procedure which

wts

I n s r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: D e i o n i z e d Water 64.12 0.08 H y d r o x y p r o p y l Methylcellulose/Methocel 4 0 - 1 0 0 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 0.04 0.16 N a 4 E DTA Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e / M a f o CSB-50 6.00 Ammoni u m L a u r y l S u l fate/Rhodapon L-22 14.40 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , GO%/Rhodapon 201-10 10.80 3.00 Cocami de DEA/Mazami de JT-128 L i no1 eami de DEA/Mazami de SS-10 0.60 Fragrance 0.10 Preservative/Germaben I 1 0.70 C i t r i c Acid Q.S. Sodium C h l o r i d e Q.S. pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 3 , 5 0 0 - 4 , 5 0 0 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d #2 @ 6rpm) Appearance: P a l e , s t r a w - c o l o r e d c l e a r l i q u i d Procedure: Disperse hydroxypropyl methylcellulose i n t o s t i r r i n g water; t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o i n i t i a t e h y d r a t i o n . Add Na4EDTA and l e t m i x 15-20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e Mafo CSB-50 f o l l o w e d by t h e ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e . When u n i f o r m , add t h e sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e and m i x u n t i l g e l - f r e e . Add p r e m i x e d Mazamide JT-128 and Mazamide S S - 1 0 , o p t i o n a l l y w i t h t h e f r a g r a n c e . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and a d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y as needed. F o r m u l a t i o n A-705 o n i ng_-Sha_mpoo Condi t i.~ -

T h i s f o r m u l a can f u n c t i o n as a c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo f o r a m e d i c a t e d o r d a n d r u f f shampoo. I t e x h i b i t s a creamy, compact s o a p - t y p e foam, e x c e l l e n t r i n s i n g , good c o n d i t i o n i n g p r o p e r t i e s , and m i l d n e s s . The v i s c o s i t y o f t h e p r o d u c t i s a b o u t 1,000 cps. WVOh 1-nqredi ent_j.Lrad% N-ame: 40.0 Sodium C12-C15 P a r e t h - 3 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l S-30 10.0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e / M a f o CAB 10.0 Laurami n e 0x1 de/Mazox LDA Laurami de DEA 4.0 M e t h y l Paraben 0.25 C i t r i c Acid t o pH 7 . 0 Perfume & C o l o r As d e s i r e d D e i on1 zed Water Q . S . t o 100.0 Procedure: Heat Lauramide DEA t o 40C. Add t o r e s t o f i n g r e d i e n t s a t 40C. Cool t o 35C t h e n add p e r f u m e and c o l o r . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Formul a t ion A-26 SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shampoos

243

Mild Shampoo with Panthenol This luxury shampoo with a high level of Panthenol delivers high shine and conditioning to the hair. Sandopan LS-24 is a mild, multi-functional surfactant that acts as a hydrotrope in this formulation to prevent latent clouding. Inqredients: Sodium Myreth Sulfate Cocoamidopropyl Betaine Lauramide DEA Sandopan LS-24 (Sodium Laureth-13 Carboxylate) PEG 150 Distearate Deionized Water Dow Corning 193 (Dimethicone Copolyol) D-Panthenol Germaben I 1 (Preservative)

Wt%

5.00 9.20 3.00 0.50 0.50 77.30 1.00

2.50 1.00

Procedure: Charge first four ingredients to vessel. Heat to 55C with stirring. Add water and cool to 45C while mixing. Add remaining ingredients. Adjust pH to 6.0 with citric acid. Properties: Appearance: Clear Yellow Liquid pH: 5.75-6.25 % Solids: 17.4 Shake foam: 475/16.2 Viscosity: 2,800-3,200 cps Technical Bulletin CHS-Z7/REF.: CH9-233-03R Clear Mink Oil ShamDoo Inqredients: Sandopan DTC acid (Trideceth-7 Carbo ylic Acid) Oil of Mink (AAA Refined) Standapol A (Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate Myrj 52s (PEG-40 Stearate) Deionized Water Fragrance Potassium Hydroxide

Wt% 19.00 1.00 16.50 5.00 qs qs

qs

Procedure: Combine Sandopan DTC acid and the water while mixing. Neutralize to pH=5.5 with Potassium Hydroxide. Heat to 80C and add other ingredients in order with mixing. Properties: Appearance: Clear Homogeneous Liquid pH: 5.5-6.0 Viscosity: 1,300-1,400 cps Ross-Miles Foam Height: 185 nun/80 nun Formula CHS-O6/REF: CL29-37

SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations

244

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Neutralizinu Conditionina Ethnic Shampoo This is a clear, neutralizing shampoo for use in combination with a Creme Relaxer. Its low pH neutralizes the effect of the Creme Relaxer. Sandopan DTC acid, used as the secondary surfactant, contributes to the mildness of the surfactant system. Inqredients: Water Ammonium Lauryl Ether Sulfate (28%) Lauramide DEA Sandopan DTC acid Cartaretin F-4 Sodium Chloride Ucare Polymer JR-400 Dye, Fragrance

qt%

77.5 13.9 2.8 3.3 1.0 1.0 0.5 qs

Procedure: Heat the water to 50C and sprinkle in the Polymer JR-400 while stirring. When the Polymer JR-400 is completely in solution, remove heat, add remaining ingredients, stirring after each addition and adjust the pH to 5-5.5 with citric acid. Properties: Appearance: Clear Yellow Liquid pH: 5-5.5 Viscosity: 600-800 cps Ross-Miles Foam Height: 12Omm/12Omm REF: CL9-61-01; CHS-01 Mild Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Inqredients: Standapol ES-50 Sandopan DTC acid Lauramide DEA Zinc Omadine (48%) Emerest 2355 Sodium Chloride Deionized Water Fragrance, Color

Wt%

21.00 5.00 4.20

3.12 1.75 1.50 63.43 qs

Procedure: Add the ingredients in order to the water. Mix thoroughly after each addition, Slight warming may aid in mixing. Melt the Emerest 2355 prior to addition. Mix thoroughly and allow to cool to room temperature. Sodium Chloride may be used to adjust the viscosity. Properties: Appearance: Opaque liquid REF: CL2-235: CHS-22 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations

Shampoos

245

P e a r 1e d ShatnDOO W B I.nAredh~c!entsr. Water 35.25 30.00 Ammonium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e ( 2 5 % ) Ammoni urn L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 2 8 % ) 20,OO M o n a t e r i c 9495 10.00 0.75 C e t y l t r imoni urn C h l o r i d e 1 .oo Cerasynt I P M o n a s i l PLN 3.00 Procedure: B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t t o 65-7OC. S t i r , c o o l t o 30-35C. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e a s r e q u i r e d t h e n p a c k a g e . P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t ie s : Appearance: P e a r l e d Viscous L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y : A p p r o x i m a t e l y 11 , 0 0 0 c p F o r m u l a t i o n F-727

C1 e a r Sh_a_mpoo Wt% Lngredi e n t s . Water 19.8 Ammoni um L a u r e t h ( 1 ) S u l f a t e ( 2 6 % ) 57.7 M o n a f a x MAP-230 12.5 M o n a t e r i c 9495 8.0 2.0 P h o s p h o l ip i d PTC Procedure: B l e n d i n o r d e r l i s t e d . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 t o 7 . 0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , p r e s e r v a t i v e , a n d p a c k a g e . A p p e a r a n c e . C1 e a r v i s c o u s 1 iq u i d V i s c o s i t y : 1 0 , 8 0 0 CP S o l i d s , 24% F o r m u l a t i o n F-709

C l e a r G e l Shampoo Ingredients: _ W t_% Water 19.8 Ammonium L a u r e t h ( 1 ) S u l f a t e ( 2 6 % ) 57.7 M o n a f a x MAP-230 12.5 M o n a t e r i c CAB-LC 8.0 2.0 P h o s p h o l ip i d PTC Procedure: B l e n d i n o r d e r l i s t e d . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 t o 7 . 0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , p r e s e r v a t i v e , a n d p a c k a g e . A p p e a r a n c e : C1 e a r v i s c o u s 1 iq u i d V i s c o s i t y : 2 6 , 0 0 0 CP S o l i d s : 24% F o r m u l a t io n F - 7 1 0

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

246

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pearlized Conditionina Shampoo Inqredients: Wt% A) Sodium Laureth Sulfate (1) (28.5% active) 35.0 Arlatone MAP Concentrate (2) 2.5 Lauramide DEA (3) 2.0 B) Polyquaternium-10 (4) 0.5 Glycol Distearate ( 5 ) 1.0 Water q.s. C) Sodium Chloride 2.0 D) 50% Potassium Hydroxide q.s. to pH 6.5 q.s. E) Germaben I1 Preparation: *Heat water to 75-80C, disperse (B) with fast stirring. *Add (A) to (B) with moderate stirring. *Add (C) to cooling (A)/(B) mixture. *Adjust pH with (D). *Add (E) below 40C and continue to gently stir to room temperature. Features : *Conditioning after feel *Excellent cleansing *Minimal irritation (1) Steol CS-330 (Stepan), (2) C9-15 Alkyl Phosphate, (3) Monamid 1034 (Mona), (4) Celquat SC-240 (National Starch), (5) Kessco EGDS (Stepan). Formula CP1232 Clear Conditionins Shampoo Insredients: Wtrg 28.5 A) Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (1) (28.0% act ve) 3.0 Lauramide DEA ( 2 ) 2.5 Arlatone MAP Concentrate (3) q.s. Water 1.6 B) Cetrimonium Chloride (4) (30.0% active q.s. to pH 6.5 C) 50% Potassium Hydroxide D) Dowicil 200 (51 . . Preparation: *Stir (A), at room temperature, until the mixture is uniform. *Add (B) to (A) with moderate stirring. *Adjust the pH with (C). *Add (D). Features: *Clear formulation with cetrimonium chloride *Conditioning after feel *Excellent cleansing (1) Stepanol AM (Stepan), (2) Monamid 1034 (Mona), (3) C9-15 Alkyl Phosphate, (4) Ammonyx CETAC-30, (5) Dowicil 200 (Dow Chemical). Formula CP1230 SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations

Shampoos

247

Salon-Sty1 e Shampoo T h i s v i s c o u s f o r m u l a t i o n d e v e l o p s a dense, r i c h , s i l k y l a t h e r which r i n s e s e a s i l y . WtO/o Part: I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: 41 . O A Dei o n i zed Water H y d r o x y p r o p y l Methylcellulose/Methocel 40-100 0.2 P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - l O / P o l y m e r JR-125 0.1 B T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne 0.1 C Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne/Mafo CAB 5.5 Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e / R h o d a p o n L-22 45.0 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0.2 0.2 M e t h y l Paraben I r n i d a z o l i d i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l 115 0.2 S o l u b l e Animal K e r a t i n / K e r a s o l 0.4 5.5 D Cocami d o p r o p y l A m i ne Oxi de/Mazox CAPA Cocamide DEA/Mazamide JT-128 1.o 0.3 Fragrance 0.2 E C i t r i c Acid pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 12,000-13,000 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d # 3 f3 6 rpm) Appearance: C l e a r , v i s c o u s , v e r y p a l e s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d Mix the p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l thoroughly dispersed, then add t h e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o i n i t i a t e h y d r a t i o n . A l l o w t o s t i r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y h y d r a t e d , t h e n add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e . P r e m i x t h e p a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s , and add t o t h e main b a t c h . T h i s p r e m i x w i l l n o t be c l e a r , b u t i t does f a c i l i t a t e the s o l u b i l i z a t i o n o f the fragrance i n the product. A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Baby Shampoo T h i s i s a c l e a r , f l u i d shampoo d e s i g n e d f o r m i l d n e s s , g e n t l e c l e a n i n g , and good r i n s e a b i l i t y . Part: I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: __ Wt% A Dei o n i zed Water 32.0 PEG-80 S o r b i t a n Laurate/T-Maz 28 6.0 Sodi um T r i d e c e t h Sul f a t e / L i p o s u r f EST-30 14.0 PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e / M a p e g 6 0 0 0 DS 2.6 Sodium C12-Cl5 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l 1.5 5-150 CGN 8 34.0 D e i o n i z e d Water Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e / M a f o CSB-50 4.8 4.0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne/Mafo CAB 0.1 Fragrance 0.1 Q u a t e r n i um-1 5 / D o w i c i 1 200 0.1 C i t r i c Acid V i s c o s i t y : 800-1500 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d #2 I3 1 2 rpm) Appearance: C l e a r , s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d Blend t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e main vessel, h e a t i n g t o 70C t o d i s s o l v e t h e Mapeg 6000 D S . When u n i f o r m , b e g i n c o o l i n g and add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . O p t i o n a l l y , t h e f r a g r a n c e c a n b e p r e m i x e d w i t h t h e Mafo CAB i n a s m a l l c o n t a i n e r . The p r e m i x w i l l n o t b e c l e a r , b u t i t w i l l speed up t h e d i s s o l u t i o n o f t h e f r a g r a n c e i n t h e shampoo. The c o n t a i n e r can b e r i n s e d w i t h a s m a l l amount o f w i t h h e l d w a t e r , i n t o w h i c h t h e quaternium-15 can be d i s s o l v e d . SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s A-106 & A - 1 1 0

248

Cosmetic and Toiletry formulations

Shampoo

w

Raw M a t e r i a1 s : A : A c y l g l u t a m a t e CS-22 Cocamide DEA A j i dew N-50 Sodi um b e n z o a t e Methyl paraben Water

60.0 5.0 1 .o 0.2 0.2 balance

B : Guar h y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i d e Butylene glycol

0.7 5.0

C: F r a g r a n c e

q.s.

Procedure: D i s p e r s e ( B ) a t r o o m t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h s t i r r i n g . M i x ( A ) and ( 8 ) and d i s s o l v e a t 70-8OC w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool down t o 50C. Add ( C ) , t h e n c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . pH: 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 1700 mPa.s a t 25C F o r m u l a CSH-12-13J Shampoo Raw Mat e r i a1 s : A: A c y l g l u t a m a t e CS-22 Sodi urn 1 a u r e t h s u l f a t e Cocamide DEA A j i d e w N-50 Sodi um b e n z o a t e Methyl paraben Water

Wt% (25%)

B : Guar h y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i d e B u t y l ene g l y c o l C:

Fragrance

40.0 20.0 5.0 1.o 0.2 0.2 balance

0.7 5.0 9,s.

Procedure: D i s p e r s e ( B ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h s t i r r i n g . M i x ( A ) and ( B ) and d i s s o l v e a t 70-80C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool down t o 5OC. Add ( C ) , t h e n c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . pH: 6 . 6 V i s c o s i t y : 1530 mPa.s a t 25C F o r m u l a CL-21-13J

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S , A . ,

I n c . : Suggested Formulations

Shampoos

249

Shampoo

____-__ Raw M a t e r i a l s : A:

A c y l g l u t a m a t e CK-11 C o c a m i d e DEA P o l y q u a t e r n i um-7 ( 8 % a q . ) KOH Methyl paraben Water

B:

Hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e

Wto/, 15.0 3.0 3.0 1.o 0.2 balance

1.o

pH: 6 . 6 V i s c o s i t y 1050 mPa.s (25C) Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 70-80C. Add ( 6 ) w i t h s t i r r i n g t o ( A ) a n d c o o l down i m m e d i a t e l y . C o o l t o 30C. F o r m u l a CK-H-002

Shampoo Raw M a t e r i a.ls: A : A c v l a l u t a m a t e CK-11 A j ; dew N-50 P y r o t e r CPI-40 Polyquaternium-7 (8% a q . ) KOH Methylparaben Water

wto/, 15.0 2.0 0.5 4.0 1.o 0.2 balance 1.

8: Hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e pH: 6 . 6 Viscosity:

o

940 mPa.s (25C)

Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 70-8OC. Add ( B ) w i t h s t i r r i n g t o ( A ) a n d c o o l down i m m e d i a t e l y . C o o l t o 30C. F o r m u l a CK-H-003 SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . ,

Inc.:

A c y l g l u t a m a t e CK-11

Formulations

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

250

Sha_mqoo-.wi_th-

E-ve-n.1

nipr-m.rose

Oi1

Raw M a t e r i a l s : A: Ampholyt J B 130K ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) S e r d o l a m i d e PPF 67 (Cocamide DEA) S e t a c i n 103 ( D i s o d i u m L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) A n t i 1 141 L i q u i d ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate) B: S o f t i g e n 767 (PEG-6 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c Evening Primrose O i l Cremophor E L (PEG-35 C a s t o r O i l )

Glycerides)

4.00 10.00 2.00 6.00 100.00 9.s.

C: Water up t o P r e s e r v a t i ve 0:

EL% 20.00 3.00 20.00

Fragrance

9.s.

Preparation: ( A ) and ( C ) a r e mixed and h e a t e d t o 40C. ( 8 ) i s a l s o m i x e d , and ( A ) and (C) a r e s l o w l y m i x e d i n t o ( 6 ) . (D) i s s t i r r e d i n a t a b o u t 30C.

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a ,

I n c . : F o r m u l a 6.3AR

__ RawA:

B:

M a t e r ia1 s: A c y l g l u t a m a t e CK-11 Sodium l a u r e t h - 3 s u l f a t e (25%) Cocamide DEA Polyquaternium-7 (8% aq.) A j idew N-50 KOH Methyl paraben Perfume Water Hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e

YL% 15.0 5.0 3.0 5.0 2.0 1.o 0.2 0.2 balance 0.8

pH: 6 . 6 V i s c o s i t y 400 mPa.s (25C) Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 70-8OC. Add ( 8 ) w i t h s t i r r i n g t o ( A ) and c o o l down i m m e d i a t e l y . Cool t o 30C.

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . ,

I n c . : Formula CK-H-004

Shampoos

251

TemDorarv Color-I_n ShamDoo lngredi ents: Phase A : Water T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e E ) L a u r y l G l u c o s i d e (Tego G l u c o s i d 1216) Propylene Glycol PEG-I8 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e Cocoate ( A n t i 1 1 7 1 ) Cocami d o p r o p y l am1 ne 0x1 de (Am1 n o x i d WS 35) P u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i l Quat 3272) D i sod1 um Cocoamphodi p r o p i o n a t e

Wt% 36.40 0.05 7.00 6.50 1 .25 2.00 5.00 0.30 18.00

Phase B: PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t G C ) B a s i c B l u e 99 1 B a s i c Brown 1 6 ) A c i d V i o l e t 43 ) B l e n d e d as needed f o r c o l o r ) B a s i c Red 76 B a s i c Y e l l o w 57 1 Water )

2.50 1 .oo

Phase C : Fragrance Preservatives Phase D : C i t r i c A c i d 25% S o l u t i o n

Q.S. Q.S.

t o pH 6.5

Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e w a t e r o f Phase A t o 50C. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s . 2 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 3 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C . M i x . Heat t o 50C. 4. Add Phase B t o Phase C . M i x we1 1 . 5 . Add Phase B/C t o Phase A . M i x . 6 . Cool t o 40C. A d j u s t pH and f r a g r a n c e .

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

252

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Two I n One C o n d i t i o n i n g Shampoo

No. 1 ? 3 4 5 6 7

8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

Phase: A A 4 A A fi. A A A B

c

D E F G H

I

w t 0%

Ingredient:

Dei 01-11 z e d W a t e r

34.39

J a g u a r C13S Staiidapol A Staildapo I EA- 1 S t a t i d aniox N . i n o i 2012 E x t r - a Po I y s y n I a i i e Nutralin I Ethylene G!ycol Dlstearate K a t h o n CG D&C Green #8 ( 1 % ) F D 8 C Y e l i o w #5 ( 1 % ) FD8C F ! u e # l ( 0 . 1 % ) C i t r i c A c i d ( 2 0 % ) qs p H : 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 S o d i u m C h l o r i d e (20%) 0s S i l k Powder F r a g r a n c e Novaroine NC-46

0.40 30.00 20.00 2.00 2.50 0.50 4.00 1 .75 0.05 0.40 0.10 0.10 0.22 3.04 0 . 30 0.25

Manufacturing I n s t r u c t i o n s : H e a t P h a s e A t o 75C. C o o l t o 45C a n d a d d r e m a i n i n g p h a s e s . Package.

Lab C o n t r o l : pH: 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 3800 c p s B r o o k f i e l d RVT: & 4 @ 2 0 RPM T h i s h i g h p e r f o r m a n c e shampoo u t i 1 i z e s P o l y s y n l a n e t o p r o v i d e r e f a t t i n g a n d S i l k Powder t o e n h a n c e t h e a p p e a r a n c e o f t h e shampoo a n d a d d t o t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g . T h e r e a r e n u m e r o u s p a t e n t s using s i l i c o n e as a c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t / r e f a t t i n g m a t e r i a l . Polysynlane circumvents these patents.

SOURCE:

Polyesther Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Shampoos

253

________ Two-In-One S h a m n D i a f o r m e r Z-W p r o v i d e s c o n d i t i o n i n g on t h e h a i r r e s u l t i n g i n i m p r o v e d c o m b a b i l i t y , and m a n a g e a b i l i t y . Sandopan OTC a c i d i s a m u l t i - f u n c t i o n a l s u r f a c t a n t w h i c h enhances d e p o s i t i o n o f t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t and c o n t r i b u t e s t o t h e m i l d n e s s o f t h e s u r f a c t a n t system. T h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r , w a t e r w h i t e shampoo has good v i s c o s i t y and f o a m i n g c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . Ingredi ents : Wt% D e i o n i z e d Water 53 I 9 4 Sodi um L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e 33.00 Sandopan DTC a c i d 8.06 PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e 3.00 D i a f o r m e r 2-W 1 .OO D i s o d i um EDTA 0.10 P r e s e r v a t i v e and F r a g r a n c e qs Procedure: Add Sandopan DTC a c i d t o w a t e r w i t h m i x i n g . U s i n g 25% NaOH s o l u t i o n , n e u t r a l i z e t o pH=6.0. H e a t t o 80C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d , Add Sodium L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e w i t h m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add D i a f o r m e r Z-W and D i s o d i u m EDTA one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t p H = 6 . 0 . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e w h i l e mixing well. P r o p e r t ies : pH: 6 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 2500-2700 c p s Appearance: C l e a r , w a t e r w h i t e l i q u i d REF: CL24-102: CHS-50 _ Al_ l i.n _One _ ~ Shampoo/Conditioner I n t h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r shampoo and c o n d i t i o n e r i n one, D i a f o r m Z-W c o n d i t i o n s , i m p r o v e s c o m b a b i l i t y , and i s an e x c e l l e n t a n t i s t a t i c a g e n t . Sandopan LS-24 complexes w i t h t h e D i a f o r m e r 2-W and enhances d e p o s i t i o n o f t h i s c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t on t h e h a i r . Ingredients: % & Phase A : D e i o n i z e d Water 65.85 Monamid 716 2.40 PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e 0.80 Phase 8: Sodium L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e 15.00 M o n a t e r i c CAB 6.00 Sandopan LS-24 g e l 8.00 Phase C : D i a f o r m e r Z-W 0.50 P r e s e r v a t i v e and F r a g r a n c e qs Procedure: Heat w a t e r t o 80C, add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase A w i t h m i x i n g . Add Phase 6 i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C. Add Phase C i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous. A d j u s t pH=5.0. L e t c o o l and package. P r o p e r t i as : pH: 5.0 Appearance: C r y s t a l c l e a r 1 i q u i d REF: CL24-67: CHS-49 SOURCE: C l a r i a n t C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

254

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

U l t r a M i l d C o n d i t i o n i n n Shampoo w i t h Suspended M i c a T h i s u l t r a m i l d shampoo u s e s n a t u r a l l y d e r i v e d s u r f a c t a n t s and c a t i o n i c c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s w h i c h p r o d u c e a v e r y r i c h , creamy, l u x u r i o u s foam and l e a v e s t h e h a i r c o n d i t i o n e d and f u l l o f b o d y . I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 2. Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 3 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 4 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 3 m o l e , 3O%)/Standapol ES-3 5 . D e c y l P o l y g l u c o s e ( 5 0 % ) / P l a n t a r e n 2000 6 . Cocoamphoacetate ( 3 2 % ) / M i r a n o l U l t r a 7 . T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 8 . L a u r y l Methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyldimonium C h l o r i d e / G l u c q u a t 125 9 . R i c i n o l e a m i d o p r o p y l - t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e / S u r f a c t o l Q1 1 0 . D i m e t h i c o n e Copolyol/Dow C o r n i n g Q2-5324 F l u i d 1 1 . D i s o d i um L a u r e t h Sul f o s u c c i n a t e / M a c k a n a t e EL 12.Polymethoxy B i c y c l i c Oxazolidine/Nuosept C 13.Soyamide DEA/Schercomid SLS I 4 . F r u i t y F l o r a l F r a g r a n c e / F r a g r a n c e #A42017 1 5 . M i c a and T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e / T i m i r o n MP-149 16.D&C Green No. 5 ( 0 . 1 0 % ) Properties: Color, odor,

appearance:

W y i 56.65 0.75 0.35 14.00 12.00

6-50 0.20 3.00 0 60 0.45 2.00 0.20 1.20 0.50 0.10 1 50 I

I

Aqua, p e a r l e s c e n t v i s c o u s l i q u i d w i t h f r u i t y f l o r a l odor

pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 6 V i s c o s i t y (cP) a t 25C: 7,000-9,000 B r o o k f i e l d Y i e l d V a l u e : 130 P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 p o l y m e r i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . Reduce m i x i n g speed a f t e r p o l y m e r i s d i s p e r s e d . H o l d o u t 1 . O % w a t e r f o r s t e p number 5 . 2 . N e u t r a l i z e b a t c h w i t h g i v e n amount o f TEA, m i x u n t i l no lumps are present. 3 . Add sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 4 . Add d e c y l p o l y g l u c o s e , mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . 5 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s 6-16 i n o r d e r w i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n , mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . NOTE: P r e - m i x T i m i r o n w i t h 1 . 0 % w a t e r b e f o r e a d d i n g t o batch. Mix u n t i l uniform.

SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n COO60

Section IX Shaving Products

255

256

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

A e r o s o l Shave Cream A w i d e r a n g e o f e m o l l i e n t s , m o i s t u r i z e r s and foam s t a b i l i z e r s can b e added t o i m p r o v e t h e e s t h e t i c p r o p e r t i e s o f a b a s i c shave cream f o r m u l a . I n f o r m u l a SK-17, A r l a m o l F PPG-11 S t e a r y l E t h e r i m p r o v e s r a z o r g l i d e and adds e m o l l i e n c e t o t h e f o r m u l a . S u r f a c t a n t s l i k e B r i j 98 O l e t h - 2 0 i m p r o v e t h e d e n s i t y and s t a b i l i t y o f t h e foam w i t h o u t c o n t r i b u t i n g t o s k i n i r r i t a t i o n . S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP a c t s as a humectant t o h o l d m o i s t u r e on t h e f a c e and keep t h e l a t h e r f r o m d r y i n g o u t d u r i n g t h e s h a v e .

Wt%

Ingredients: A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed B r i j 98 Arlamol F B Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP C P r e s e r v a t iv e D H y d r o c a r b o n P r o p e l l a n t A-46

9.0 2.0 2.0 67.4 4.6

10.o

9. S . 5 0

Preparation: Heat ( A ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n whi e m a i n t a i n i n g t e m p e r a t u r e a t 70-75C. A f t e r 15 m i n u t e s a t t h i s t e m p e r a t u r e , c o o l . Add (C) a b o u t 50C. R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . Package i n a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r s . P r e s s u r i z e w i t h D). F o r m u l a SK-17 F o r m u l a SK-18 o f f e r s an a l t e r n a t i v e t o t h e soap t y p e p r o d u c t . The p r o d u c t i s n o n i o n i c and c o u l d b e p r e p a r e d a t a n e u t r a l o r a c i d i c pH. B e n e f i t s o f f e r e d by t h i s f o r m u l a i n c l u d e l o w i r r i t a t i o n , b e t t e r r i n s a b i l i t y and c o m p a t i b i l i t y w i t h a w i d e r a n g e o f o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s . The foam, i t s e l f , i s r i c h and dense. N o n i o n i c A e r o s o l Shave Cream T h i s i s a dense, r i c h , economical v a r i e d over a wide range. Ingredients: A Cetyl alcohol B r i j 721

B W a t e r , d e i o n i zed Sorbic Acid C Fragrance

foam w i t h a pH t h a t can be

Wt% 4.30 2.20 93.25 0.17 0.08

Preparation : Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 9 ) t o 75C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s o w l y w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) a t 35C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 w i h d i l u t e NaOH. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Cont nue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s l o w enough t o p o u r . P r e s s u r i z e d : Above c o n c e n t r a t e : 1 6 0 . 0 9 Di f l u o r o e t h a n e : 5.09 F o r m u l a SK-18 SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shaving Products

257

A f t e r Shave C o n d i t i o n e r ~

F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s rmulti-phase emulsion (O/W/A) i s v e r y s t a b l e and has wonderful s k i n f e e l . Besides t h e p r e v i o u s l y mentioned advantages, Cera B e l l i n a p r o d u c e s a p r o d u c t w i t h good v i s c o s i t y c h a r a c t e r istics in product o f low s o l i d c o n t e n t . Raw M a t e r i a l s : O i l Phase: M i nosi 1 Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) G1 y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e Amerchol L - I 0 1 Vitamin E P r o p y l Paraben

WL% 7.5 4.0 3.3 2.0 0.5 0.1

Water Phase: Water ( d i s t i l l e d ) B u t y l ene G1 y c o l Glycerol M e t h y l Paraben Triethanolamine

64.0 5.0 1.o 0.3 1.o

A 1 coho1 Phase : SDA-30 Benzocai ne Carboxy M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e

10.0 1.0 0.3

Procedure: Combine components o f t h e wax phase i n a v e s s e l , m e l t and m i x , m a i n t a i n i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C. Heat t h e w a t e r phase t o 75C i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l making s u r e t h e components a r e a l l d i s s o l v e d . S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase u n d e r l o w s h e a r . Cool t o 35 t o 4 0 C and t h e n add t h e a l c o h o l phase u n d e r l o w s h e a r . T h i s w i l l ensure t h a t t h e f r i c t i o n w i l l n o t increase t h e temperature which w i l l evaporate t h e a l c o h o l . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : A l t e r a t i o n s i n component c o n c e n t r a t i o n s c a n be a c h i e v e d b y t h e a d d i t i o n o f secondary e m u l s i f y i n g agents. T h i s w i l l a l l o w f o r a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s t o be added a t t h e same t i m e as m a i n t a i n i n g t h e s t a b i l i t y and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

258

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

A f t e r s h a v e Gel w i t h P e p p e r m i n t and Tea T r e e O i l T h i s c l e a r a f t e r s h a v e g e l , t h i c k e n e d w i t h C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 10, c o n t a i n s Tea T r e e and P e p p e r m i n t O i l and w i l l h e l p s o o t h e and c o o l p o s t - r a z o r s k i n b u r n . Tea T r e e O i l i s known f o r i t s h e a l i n g and t h e r a p e u t i c p r o p e r t i e s . I ~ f ~ d ~ ~ - n ~ r a ~ ~ ~ a - ~ e - ~ Part A: Dei o n i zed Water Carbomer/Carbopol U l t r e z 1 0 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 % ) / S o r b o 7090 PEG 6OO/Carbowax 600 NaOH (18%) P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 3 9 / M e r q u a t P l u s 3330 Part B: Oleth-lO/Brij-97, Volpo-10 Peppermint O i 1, Refined Tea T r e e Oil/EmCon Tea T r e e P a r t C: SD 40 A l c o h o NaOH (l8Oh)

84.23 0.20 1.50 0 50 2.00 0.20 0.25 I

0.80 0.80 0.12

10.00 0.12

P r o p e r t ies : OH: 6.3-6 8 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 7,000-10,000 C l a r i t y ( % T ) : 90-95 Appearance: C l e a r p o u r a b l e g e l S t a b i l i t y : Passed 45C, 28 days Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l U l t r e z p o l y m e r by s p r i n k l i n g on t h e s u r f a c e o f warm (30-40C) d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . B e g i n s t i r r i n g when p o l y m e r i s wetted. 2 . W i t h s l o w s t i r r i n g , add p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , Sorbo and PEG 600 ( p r e - m e l t e d ) . S t i r f o r 20 minutes. 3 . Add NaOH ( 1 8 % ) , i n c r e a s e m i x i n g as g e l t h i c k e n s . M i x u n t i l smooth. 4 . Slow a g i t a t i o n speed and add P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 3 9 . 5 . Combine P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s ( p r e - m e l t o l e t h - 1 0 ) . Add P a r t C t o P a r t A . (NOTE: P a r t A s h o u l d b e 3 0 C ) . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 6 . W i t h s l o w m i x i n g , add SD 40 a l c o h o l and NaOH ( 1 8 % ) . M i x unti 1 uniform.

SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n U0014

Shaving Products

259

Experimental Shavins Cream PreDaration Inqredient: Deionized water Sodium hydroxide (24.6% solution) Potassium hydroxide (34.2% solution) Stearic acid, double pressed Coconut acid Propylene glycol Lauramide DEA Coconut oil Tallow glycerides Preservative 1.5% N-Hance 3000 solution

Amount ,q 633,6 9.6 34.2 71.6 10.0 27 .Q 10.0 2.5 30.0 5.0

166.5

To prepare the N-Hance 3000 cationic guar solution, add the polymer to the vortex of well-agitated water. Stir 5 minutes. Use acetic acid* to lower pH to 6-7. Stir 30 minutes. Make sure pH is still within the 6-7 range. Add 2.5% sorbitol** (70% active). Stir 30 minutes. Set the resulting solution aside. To prepare the shaving cream concentrate, add the sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide to the deionized water at room temperature. Raise the temperature to 75C. Stir 5 minutes. Premelt the stearic acid and coconut acid separately and then add each to the caustic/water mix. Stir 30 minutes and then cool to 55C. Add, one at a time, the propylene glycol, lauramide DEA (melted), coconut oil, tallow glycerides (melted), and preservative. Stir 15 minutes and then turn off the heat. Add the N-Hance solution and cool to room temperature while stirring. (For the control, 166.5 g of deionized water was used in place of the N-Hance solution.) The concentrate (225g) was weighed into a standard 12-02 shaving cream can. The can was then sealed with a valve assembly using laboratory canning equipment and charged with 9.0 g of propellant. *Acetic acid is added to speed up the hydration of the N-Hance polymer and reduce solution preparation time to <1 hr. **Sorbit01 is added to prevent borate ion, present in the N-Hance polymer, from complexing with the cationic guar in high-pH (>7) formulations, such as shaving creams. Addition of sorbitol is unnecessary in lower pH formulations.

SOURCE: Aqualon Division, Hercules I n c . : Experimental Formulation

260

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

G e l S h a v e Cream Gel shave creams a r e e s s e n t i a l l y s o a p - t y p e f o r m u l a s packaged i n a S e p r o - C a n a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r ( C o n t i n e n t a l Can C o . ) . The g e l c o n c e n t r a t e c o n t a i n s a l o w l e v e l o f p r o p e l l a n t . When t h e g e l i s e x p e l l e d f r o m t h e c a n , t h i s p r o p e l l a n t v o l a t i l i z e s o n warm s k i n s u r f a c e s and p r o d u c e s a foam. N o n i o n i c s u r f a c t a n t s l i k e B r i j 98 O l e t h - 2 0 s t a b i l i z e t h e foam. Inqredients: A Palmitic acid Stearic acid B r i j 98 8 Water S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP C Water T r i e t h a n o l ami n e D Hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e s o l u t i o n (1.0% W/W P r o p y l ene g l y c o l E Carbomer 934 s o l u t i o n ( 1 . 5 % , W/W i n w a t e r ) F Propylene g l y c o l dipelargonate n-Butane n - Pe i i t a n e

Wt%

i n water)

6.50 2.25 1 .oo 34.20 10.00 10.00 4.75 7.50 3.30 15.00 2.75 0.55 2.20

Preparation: H e a t ( A ) , ( B ) , a n d ( C ) t o 6 0 C . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) s l o w l y t o ( A B ) w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( D ) a n d ( E ) s e p a r a t e l y t o t h i s s o a p b a s e and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. M i x ( F ) a t 5C. A l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e t r a n s f e r r e d t o a p r e s s u r i z e d v e s s e l a n d m i x e d a t 7 t o 10 p s i g . T h i s m i x t u r e i s p a c k a g e d i n a s u i t a b l e a e r o s o l c a n . The c a n i s p r e s s u r i z e d f r o m t h e b o t t o m w i t h a m i x t u r e o f p r o p a n e and i s o b u t a n e h a v i n g a v a p o r p r e s s u r e o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 46 p s i g . C a u t i o n : n - B u t a n e and n-Pentane a r e v e r y f l a m m a b l e ! F o r m u l a SK-19 The n e x t f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o p r o v i d e t h e s h a v e r who u s e s an e l e c t r i c r a z o r w i t h a l u b r i c a t e d f a c e w h i c h w i l l a l l o w t h e r a z o r t o g l i d e over t h e s k i n r e a d i l y and t o p r e v e n t " r a z o r b u r n . "

P r e - e l e c t r i c Shave L o t i o n Inaredientsl A r l a m o l E pop 15 s t e a r y l e t h e r A l c o h o l , SDA F o r m u l a No. 4 0 M e n t h o l , USP Perfume P r e p a r a t i on : Mix ingredients toge her F o r m u l a AE-7

SOURCE:

ICI

Surfactants

I

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Kt2 10.0-15.0 84.6-89.6 0.2 0.2

Shaving Products

01 2

-1

n-Water

After-Shave

261

Balm

I a r e d i e-cns;

WZ9"

10.0

A A r l a m o l 57 Babassu o i l

5.0 5.5

B A r l a t o n e 2121 A t l a s G-2330 P r e s e r v s t i ve Water

2.5 q.s.

71.6

C Keltrolh

0.2

D Ethanol

5.0

E Fombin HC/O3*

0.2

Manufacture: 1 , M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2 1 2 1 l r i t h c h e a t e d w a t e r p h a s e a t YOC u ~ ~ d e r m o d e r a t e s t i r r i rig a n t i 1 a h o m o g e n e o u s d i s p e r s i c n : s f o r m e d . 2. D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o c o i l o i d i n t h e h e a t e d aqueous phase a t 131.. w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . 3 . Add t h e h e a t e d o i l p h a s e t o t h e a q u e o u s p h a s e u n d e r i n t e n s i v e s t i r r i ng. 4 . H o m o g e n i s e t h e m i x t u r e . i r i t e n s i v t . l y a t 7 5 C f o r orle n1 r i u t e , 5 . Add y h a s e s D ;tnd i a-L - - d o c : . 6. C o o l t o 35C i - I i i l s t s t i r r i i - ; g m o d e l - a t e l y . 7 , Add h e a t - s e n s ? t - t v e i i : g : e d i t . i, -, t i '..i,i , ;st s t i r r i n g m o d e ate'? --?.

.I

Comments: Viscosity:

6.550 mPa

i

( B r o o k f i e i d LVT,

*Ke;tol (Xanthari Gum, INC.i)-Ke!co Fonibin H C I 0 3 i P e r f l u o r o p o l y n i e t h y 1 A u s i munt

SOURCE:

s p l i i d l e C , 6 rpm)

sopropy1 E t h e r , iNC1)-

I C I S u r f a c t a n t s ; F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-15

262

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shave Cr_ea-m C o n c e n t r a t e Rich lather,

good

r a i o r g l i d e , and w o n ' t l e a v e a c a l c i u m soap scum i n t h e b a s i n .

: _InAr e d2.e n t / T r a d e D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer 9 3 4 / C a r b o p o l 934 Sod1 um C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / Jordapon CI-60 F l a k e S t e a r i c A c i d / E m e r s o l 132 Coconut Acid/C-108 P a r a f f i n 6971 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l PEG-75 L a n o l i n / S o l u l a n 75 Preservative/Germaben I 1 Fragrance T r i e t h a n o l ami n e

w t 4b

76.9 0.2

12.5 0.9 0. I 1 .6 5.0 0.5 0.2 0.2 2.0

Procedure: D i s p e r s e a n d d i s s o l v e t h e c a r b o m e r 9 3 4 i n t h e w a t e r . Add t h e Jordapon C I - 6 0 F l a k e , f a t t y a c i d s and p a r a f f i n , h e a t i n g t o 55C ( 1 3 0 F ) t o d i s s o l v e . P r e m i x t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , PEG-75 l a n o l i n , p r e s e r v a t i v e , a n d f r a g r a n c e ; a d d t o t h e b a t c h . A d j u s t pH t o 7 . 0 - 7 . 5 w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . Use t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e a t 96% w i t h 4% P r o p e l l a n t A - 4 6 . Foamul a t i on P-301 . E l e c~. tric P ~reshave A h y d r o - a l c o h o l i c s p l a s h w h i c h l u b r i c a t e s t h e s k i n and w e t s t h e b e a r d f o r a f a s t e r , more c o m f o r t a b l e s h a v e . The f o r m u l a a l s o w o r k s w e l l a s a m o i s t u r i z i n g a f t e r s h a v e , and a s a m o i s t u r i z i n g afterbath splash.

W-CIo

L!g Ced 1SE t_flrade__~N_a_m_e_:

PPG-10 B u t a n e d i o l / M a c o l 5 7 Di m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o 1 /Mas1 1 280 Fragrance SD A l c o h o l 4 0 8 D e i o n i z e d Water Appearance: C l e a r , w a t e r - w h i t e

3.0

0.5 Q.S 25.0 71 . 5

fluid

Procedure: Blend t h e f i r s t t h r e e i n g r e d i e n t s a t ambient temperature. Add t h e f r a g r a n c e , a n d b l e n d u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t h e w a t e r , a n d blend u n t i l uniform. F o r m u l a t i o n P-104

SOURCE:

PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested Formulations

Shaving Products

263

Shave G e l F o r m u l a t i n g Desi gn and Advantages: The p r o d u c t w i l l r a i s e t h e h a i r o f f t h e f a c e t o make f o r a c l o s e r c u t w i t h o u t i r r i t a t i o n . The H e x a n e d i o l Behenyl Beeswax s t a b i l i z e s t h e s i l i c o n e o i l t o l e a v e t h e s k i n s i l k y and smooth. Raw M a t e r i a1 s : Phase A : Hexanedi o l Behenyl Beeswax D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax P e r m e t h y l 104A Polybutene Isostearic Acid Palmitic Acid Phase B : P u r i f i e d Water Triethanolamine C a r b o p o l 940 ( 2 % d i s p e r s i o n ) A l o e Vera Gel A1 l a n t o i n Germaben 11 Phase C : S i 1 i c o n e 345

Hi3 3.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 0.6 1.4

63.9 0.8 12.0 0.8 0.8 1

.o

6.7

Procedure: Heat and m i x Phase A and add t o a h e a t e d and m i x e d Phase 5 . Cool t o 50C and add Phase C . Cool t o 40C and p o u r . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : F r a g r a n c e s , a c t i v e s and o t h e r s i l i c o n e o i l s can be i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s t y p e o f f o r m u l a , w i t h o n l y m i n i m a l changes i n s t a b i l i t y and p e r f o r m a n c e .

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Section X

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

264

Shaving Products

A n t i b a c t e r i a l Handcleaner: HpsPitaJ

265

Formulation

CofLPxEEt-:. R e w o t e r i c AM 2CW W i t c o l a t e ES-2 W i t c a m i d e 128T W i t c o n a t e AOS-PC Triclosan/Propylene Glycol* G1 y c e r i n ( K e m e s t e r 9 9 . 7 % ) D I Water G1 y d a n t Na4EDTA

w t Zh 1.4 4.0 0.5 10.0 0.5 2.0 81 , 2 5 0.25 0.1

*These t w o components a r e b l e n d e d i n a 5 0 : 5 0 b l e n d a t l e a s t 2 4 h o u r s b e f o r e f o r m u l a t i n g . I t makes i t e a s i e r t o i n c o r p orate the Triclosan i n t o t h e formula. Components a r e a d d e d i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d w i t h no h e a t i n g a n d c o n t i n u o u s m i x.i n g . A d j u s t pH t o a b o u t 6 . 0 5 u s i n g 25% C i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . B r o o k f i e l d R V - D V I 1 # 4 C 1 0 25C: 8 0 0 c p s a t 4% NaCl 1450 c p s a t 4 . 6 % NaCl Formula 1127

A n t i b a c t e r i a1 H a n d c l e a n e r : Shop F o r m u l a t i o n Component R e w o t e r i r AM €3-14 W i t c o l a t e ES-2 W i t c a m i de 1 2 8 T W i t c o l l a t e AOS-PC Triclosan/Propylene glycol* G l y c e r i n ( K e r n e s t e r 99 7 % ) D I Water G1 y d a n t Na4EDTA W i t c o n a t e GOT

WtY/,

2.0 4.0 2.0 10.0 0.5 1

.o

74.15 0.25 0.1 6.0

*These t w o components a r e b l e n d e d i n a 5 0 : 5 0 b l e n d a t l e a s t 24 h o i l r s b e f o r e f o r m u l a t i n g . I t makes i t e a s i e r t o i n c o r p orate the Triclosan i n t o the formula. Components a r e a d d e d i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d w i t h no h e a t i n g a n d c o n t in u o u s m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH t o a b o u t 6 . 0 5 u s i n g 25% C i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . B r o o k f i e l d R V - D V I 1 #4 C 1 0 25C 920 c p s a t 2% NaCl 1 3 8 9 c p s a t 2.5W NaCl F ormula 1129

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

266

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Antibacterial Component.; R e w o t e r i c AM 2CW W i t c o l a t e ES-2 W i t c a m i d e 128T W i t c o n a t e AOS-PC Triclosan/Propylene

Handcleaner: O f f i c e Formulat_ioq W S

1.4 8.0 glycol*

0.5 10.0 0.5

H e a t t o 70-75C b e f o r e c o n t i n u i n g a d d i t i o n s K e m e s t e r EGOS G l y c e r i n e (Kemester 99.7%) 01 W a t e r

1.o 2.0 40.0

Remove f r o m h e a t . A d d i t i o n s may c o n t i n u e e v e n b e f o r e r e t u r n i n g t o room t e m p . 01 W a t e r Na4EDTA Glydant

36.25 0.1 0.25

*These t w o components a r e b l e n d e d i n a 5 0 : 5 0 b l e n d a t l e a s t 24 h o u r s b e f o r e f o r m u l a t i n g . I t makes i t e a s i e r t o i n c o r p orate the Triclosan i n t o the formula. Components a r e a d d e d i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d w i t h c o n t i n u o u s m i x i n g and h e a t i n g a s i n d i c a t e d . A d j u s t pH t o a b o u t 6 . 0 5 u s i n g 25% C i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . B r o o k f i e l d R V - D V I 1 # 4 @ 1 0 25C 240 c p s a t 3% NaCl 2740 c p s a t 4% NaCl Formula 1128

Wa-terl e s s Hand C1 e a n e r Ingredients: Emphos PS-220 Kerosene, deodorized Stoddard Solvent, deodorized T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% Water Formula 1119

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

K%.% 8.7 37.9 15.4 2.2 35.8

Shaving Products

267

A n t i b a c t c r i a ! L i G u i d Soap A h i g h - f o a m i n g l i q u i d soap c o n t a i n i n g Jordapon ACI-30 t o p r o v i d e e x c e l l e n t l a t h e r s l i p and s o f t s k i n a f t e r f e e l . An e f f e c t i v e a n t i b a c t e r i a1 p r o v i d e s r e s i d u a l b e n e f i t s . ___ Part: I n g r e d i e n t T r a d e Name: W 2 A h n o n i u m L i u r e t h S u l f a t e / A l f o n i c 1412A 9.6 T r i c l o s a n / I r g a s a n DP-300 0.3 Cocamidopropyl Amine Oxide/Mazox CAPA 3.5 Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e / M a f o CSB-50 3.3 M e t h y l Paraben 0.2 B D e i o n i z e d Water 74.0 Na4EDTA 0.2 I r n i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 11 5 0.2 Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n ACI-30 7.4 C Cocamide DEA/Mazamide JT-128 1.3 Q. S C i t r i c A c i d t o pH=6.5+-0.2 Ammon i um Chl o r i de Q.S V i s c o s i t y : 2,500-4,000 cps Appearance: C l e a r , s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d Procedure: B l e n d p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e main v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 45C u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t h e p a r t B components i n o r d e r , m a i n t a i n i n g 45C. When u n i f o r m , b e g i n c o o l i n g , add p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s . F o r m u l a t i o n N-109 M i l d L~i w i d Soap T h i s f o r m u l a l a t h e r s and c l e a n s w e l l . v e t l e a v e s s k i n f e e l i n a smooth and s o f t t h a n k s t o t h e Jordapon C I - U P and Mafo CAB i n g r e d i e n t s . The w h i t e p e a r l e s c e n t appearance i s due t o t h e Mapeg EGMS. O m i t t i n g t h i s i n g r e d i e n t y i e l d s a c l e a r , p a l e y e l l o w oroduct.

-

WtYO

74.2 3.0 13.0 0.5 0.1 0.2 6.0 2.5 0.2 0.2 0.1

Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n C I - U P Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e / S t e p a n o l AM G l y c o l S t e a r a t e / M a p e g EGMS N a 4 EDTA M e t h y l Paraben B Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne/Mafo CAB Cocami de DEA/Mazami de JT-128 C I m i d a z o l i d i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l 11 5 Fragrance C i t r i c Acid pH: 6 . 2 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 2 , 5 0 0 - 3 , 5 0 0 cps ( w i t h 0 . 6 - 0 . 9 % NaC1) Appearance: Creamy, p e a r l e s c e n t l i q u i d Total A c t i v e s : 11.5% Procedure: M i x and h e a t t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 65C t o m e l t and d i s s o l v e t h e Jordapon CI-UP and t h e Mapeg EGMS. When u n i f o r m , add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and c o o l t h e b a t c h t o 40-45C. Add t h e G e r m a l l 115 and f r a g r a n c e , and a d j u s t t h e pH. Cool t h e b a t c h t o 25C and a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . F o r m u l a t i o n N-201 SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

268

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

mi

-.______ Anti crob

i a1 L i au id Soap

l . n n r e d i e n t s .:. Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d 56.03 B i o t e r g e AS-40 17.00 Standapol A 12.00 H e t a i n e CLA ( C a n o l a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 4.25 H e s t EGDS (EGDS) 0.80 H e t a m i d e RC ( C o c a m i d e DEA) 3.00 M e r q u a t 550 3.10 Phase B : P r o p y l ene G 1 y c o l 2.50 Triclosan 0.50 Phase C : K a t h o n CG 0.05 Phase D : C i t r i c Acid 0.07 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.70 Specifications: pH: 5 . 7 5 - 6 . 5 0 V i s c o s i t y # 3 / 1 2 : 6000 c p s 1 . I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e , c o m b i n e Phase A . H e a t t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g . 2 . P r e m i x Phase 6 , a d d t o b a t c h . M i x w e l l . 3 . C o o l t o 40C a n d a d d K a t h o n CG. 4 . A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5 . C o o l t o 25C a n d a d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y w i t h s o d i u m chloride. F o r m u l a t i o n HLS-94-132

L i q u i d Soap Ingredients: Wt% Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d 59.01 B i o t e r g e AS-40 17.00 Standapol A 12.00 H e t a i n e CLA ( C a n o l am1 d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 4.25 H e s t EGDS (EGDS) 0.80 H e t a m i d e RC ( C o c a m i d e DEA) 3.00 M e r q u a t 550 3.10 Phase 6 : K a t h o n CG 0.07 Phase C : C i t r i c Acid 0.07 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.70 Spec1 f ic a t io n s : DH: 5 . 7 5 - 6 . 5 0 V i s c o s i t y # 3 / 1 2 : 5000 c p s 1 . I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e c o m b i n e Phase A . H e a t t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g . 2 . C o o l t o 40C a n d a d d K a t h o n C G . 3 . A d j u s t pH w t h c i t r i c a c i d . 4 . C o o l t o 25C a n d a d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s t Y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . F o r m u l a HS 9 3 - 6 6 SOURCE: H e t e r e n e , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shaving Products

269

Application for Soaps and Syndet Bars Acylglutamate can be used for soap and syndet bar applications with advantages such as: *high eco-compatibility = good biodegradation *least irritation to skin and eyes *hypo-allergic *moisturized feeling after wash *Excellent properties even in hard water *prevention of scum Syndet Bar

Raw Materials: Acylglutamate GS-11 Cetyl alcohol Water Titanium oxide Perfume Syndet bar with weakly acidic pH

Wt$ 83.9 7.0 9.0 0.1 9.s.

Svndet Bar

W B

Raw Materials: Acylglutamate GS-11 Sodium lauryl sulfate Cetyl alcohol Water Perfume Pigment

57.0 24.0 9.0 10.0 q.s. q.s.

Soap

Raw Materials: Soap material (incl 8% water) Acylglutamate HS-21 Cetyl alcohol Ajidew N-50 Pyroter GPI-25 Ceresine Perfume

0.5 0.3 q.s.

Wt$ 41.6 10.0

Raw Materials: Soap material (incl Acylglutamate HS-21 Glycerin Ethanol Sugar Water Perfume SOURCE: Ajinomoto U . S . A . ,

wtg

86.0 10.0 2.2 1.0

7.0 18.0 12.0 11.4 9.s.

Inc.: Suggested Formulations

270

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Coconut-Soya Hand Soap (15% Real Soap1 Emery 621 Coconut Fatty Acid (acid value 263) Emery 610 Soya Fatty Acid (acid value 202) Caustic potash (100%) Water

Wt% 9.65 3.20 3.18 to 100.00

Procedure: Blend the coconut and soya fatty acids and proceed: Dissolve the caustic in the necessary amount of water, heating to 49-54C (120-130F), then add the fatty acid in a slow steady stream. Agitate while mixing the fatty acid and caustic until saponification is complete. The reaction mixture should be heated to 66-71'2 (150-160F) during the final stages of saponification. Check the neutrality of the soap and adjust as necessary. Perfume as desired. Allow the soap to stand and settle for several days at near freezing temperatures, if possible, and decant or filter the soap. Soya Scrub Soap (15% Real Soap) Emery 610 Soya Fatty Acid (acid value 202) Caustic potash (100%) Water

Wt%

13.20 2.69 to 100.00

Procedure: Prepare in the same way as formulation above Properties and Variations: Scrub soaps are made for general purpose applications and are usually made from the cheaper grades of fatty acids. Cottonseed and soya fatty acids are quite popular raw materials for this type of product, though oleic and other fatty acids may also be used. Addition of several percent of pine oil will give a pleasant odor to the soap and cause it to congeal slightly. The pine oil should not be added until the soap is fairly cool, since high temperatures cause vaporization and loss. Furthermore, addition of pine oil at or near room temperatures assures better control of viscosity of the finished soap. SOURCE: Henkel Corp/Emery Group: Fatty Acids and Their Water Soluble Soaps: Suggested Formulations

Shaving Products

271

Cream Soae

Raw Materials: Water Acylglutamate L S - 1 1 Glycerin Sodium PCA Glyceryl stearate Cetearyl alcohol Sodium chloride Fragrance Imidazolidinyl urea Methyldibromo glutaronitrile

Wt% balance 25.0 20.0 2.0

2.0 1.0 1.0

0.2 0.2 &

phenoxyethanol

0.1

C r e a m Soap

Raw Materials: Water Acylglutamate CT-12 Propylene glycol PEG-20 glyceryl stearate & Glyceryl stearate Cetearyl alcohol Sodium PCA Pyroter GPI-25 Hydroxyethylcellulose Fragrance Imidazolidinyl urea Methyldibromo glutaronitrile & phenoxyethanol

Wt% balance 20.0 15.0 6.0

3.0 1.0 1.0 0.8 0.3

0.2 0.1

Solid Bar Raw Materials: Sodium N-Cocoyl, Tallow-L-Glutamate (Amisoft GS-11) Sodium cocoylisethionate Cetyl alcohol Titanium dioxide EDTA disodium salt Deionized water

Wt% 42.00

42.00 7 .OO

0.10 0.10 8.80

Procedure: 1. Dissolve cetyl alcohol and deionized water at 80C with stirring. 2. Add titanium dioxide and EDTA disodium salt and disperse thoroughly. 3. Add small amount of GS-11 (3g per 1009 of water) to the mixture to emulsify at 80C, with continued stirring. 4 . Add the mixture from step 3 to GS-11 and Sodium cocoylisethionate and mingle thoroughly. 5. Mill the mixture on a roller mill and then convert into a bar through an extruder. 6. Mold the bar in a stamping machine. Formula AI-KK SOURCE: Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc.: Suggested Formulations

272

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

D - L i monene Hand C1 e&arex An o p a q u e , f i r m g e l w a t e r l e s s h a n d c l e a n e r b a s e d o n n a t u r a l d - 1 i m o n e n e a n d b i o d e g r a d a b l e emu1 s i f i e r s . E f f e c t i v e , c l e a n r i n s i n g , and p l e a s a n t - s m e l l i n g , wto/, Part: I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: A d-Limonene, Grade M 20 0 0 B u t y l a t e d H y d r o x y T o l u e n e (BHT) 0.10 01 e i c A c i d/Pamol yn 125 7.20 C o c a m i d e DEA/Mazamide J T - 1 2 8 1 .70 5.00 P o l y s o r b a t e 80/T-Maz 8 0 PEG-85 L a n o l in / L a n o g e l 65 0.50 B Triethanolamine 3.10 G1 y c e r i n 1.oo D e i o n i z e d Water 61.39 Na4EDTA 0.01 pH: 8 . 2 - 8 . 5 Odor: C i t r u s Appearance: W h i t e , opaque g e l Procedure: No h e a t i n g i s r e q u i r e d t o p r o c e s s t h i s f o r m u l a . I n a s i d e v e s s e l , d i s s o l v e t h e BHT i n t h e d - L i m o n e n e , t h e n b l e n d i n t h e o t h e r p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . I n t h e main v e s s e l , b l e n d t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . W i t h r a p i d p r o p e l l o r m i x i n g , a d d p a r t A t o p a r t B, f o r m i n g t h e e m u l s i o n . Check a n d a d j u s t pH, t h e n p a c k a g e . P r o d u c t i s a f l o w a b l e l i q u i d when made, t h i c k e n s t o a s o f t c r e a m i n a b o u t 2 h o u r s , a n d becomes a r i n g i n g g e l i n a b o u t 3 h o u r s . F o r m u l a t i o n 0-1 0 6 I

W a t e r l e s s Hand C l e a n e r w i t h d - L i m o n e n e A f i r m w h i t e cream f o r h e a v y - d u t y hand c l e a n i n g w i t h o r w i t h o u t w a t e r . The d - l i m o n e n e a i d s g r e a s e - c u t t i n g i n a d d i t i o n t o f r a g r a n c i n g t h e p r o d u c t . M a z c l e a n EP p r o v i d e s e m u l s i f i c a t i o n ane d e t e r g e n c y as w e l l a s improved r i n s a b i l i t y , _ Ing ._ r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: ye, Part: A D e o d o r i z e d Kerosene 25.00 L i g h t M i n e r a l O i 1/Drake01 9 5.00 d-Limonene, Grade M 5.00 d - L i m o n e n e E m u l s i f i e r / M a z c l e a n EP 6.00 S t e a r i c A c i d / H y s t r e n e 5016 5.00 49.83 B Water G1 y c e r i n 2.00 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% 2.10 P r e s e r v a t i v e / K a t h o n CG 0.07 pH: 7 . 5 - 8 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 5 5 0 , 0 0 0 - 6 0 0 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d TD @ 0 . 3 r p m ) Appearance: F i r m , g l o s s y w h i t e cream Procedure: B l e n d t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e m a i n v e s s e l , h e a t t o 60C. I n a s e c o n d v e s s e l , b l e n d a n d h e a t t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s t o 60C. S l o w l y add P a r t B t o A w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . The b a t c h w i l l t h i c k en as t h e e m u l s i o n forms, t h e n i t w i l l t h i n s l i g h t l y as t h e emuls i o n i n v e r t s . C o o l t h e b a t c h t o 35C w i t h sweep s t i r r i n g & p a c k o f f . F o r m u l a t i o n 0-1 0 2 SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shaving Products

273

Hand and Body C l e a n s e r Ingredients: Wt% Phase I : Water, D . I . 67.0 W i t c o n a t e AOS 20.0 Varonic LI-48 3.7 Varonic LI-67 1.3 W i t c o n o l EGMS 1.6 Varamide ML-1 2.5 Phase 11: G1 y c e r i n 0.2 Lanoquat 5 0 0.5 EDTA 0.1 R e w o t e r i c AM B -1 5 3.1 Phase I 1 1 : C i t r i c Acid 4,s. Phase I V : Sodi urn Chl o r ide q.s. Phase V : Preservative q.s. Blending Procedure: Heat Phase I w a t e r t o 8 O C . B l e n d i n W i t c o n a t e AOS w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . When t h i s i s b l e n d e d c o m p l e t e l y , add t h e r e m a i n i n g Phase I i n g r e d i e n t s , m e l t i n g them f i r s t b e f o r e a d d i n g . Cool t o 45C and add Phase 11, i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d . C o o l t o 35C and a d j u s t p H = 7 . 0 t o 7 . 7 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add sodium c h l o r i d e t o desi red v i s c o s i t y . Typi c a l P r o p e r t ie s : S o l i d s : 19.5% pH: 7 . 3 Formula 1125 Economy. . ~

mredientsr

Hand C1 e a n e r

wt./,

Phase I: Water, D . I . 64.7 Glycerine 0.5 W i t c o l a t e WAC-LA 30.0 Varox 1770 3.5 G l y c e r y l Stear-ate 1.3 Phase 1 1 : P h o s p h o r i c A c i d , 86% 9,s. Phase 111: Sodium C h l o r i d e 9.s. Phase I V : Preservative q.s. B1 e n d i ng P r o c e d u r e : Warm and mix Phase I t o 70-75C. Cool t o 30C. A d j u s t t o pH= 6 . 8 w i t h P h o s p h o r i c A c i d . Add sodium c h l o r i d e t o a c h i e v e desir e d v i s c o s i t y T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es : Sol i ds : 1 2 . 0 % pH: 6 . 8 Formula 1124 SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

.

274

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Heavy D u t y L i q u i d Soap A h i g h - l a t h e r i n g , h a r d - w o r k i n g l i q u i d soap w h i c h d o e s n ' t d r y t h e s k i n w i t h r e p e a t e d use b e c a u s e o f t h e M a f o CSB-50, w h i c h a l s o h e l p s b u i l d t h e p r o d u c t ' s v i s c o s i t y . A pearlescent appeara n c e i s i m p a r t e d b y t h e Mapeg EGMS, w h i c h c o u l d b e o m i t t e d i f a c l e a r product i s desired.

Part: A

I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: W B D e m i n e r a l i z e d Water 20.0 S o d i u m C14-15 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e / W i t c o n a t e AOS 10.0 1.o G l y c o l S t e a r a t e / M a p e g EGMS 46.1 B Demi n e r a l i z e d W a t e r S o d i um C12-15 P a r e t h S u l f a t e / N e o d o l 2 5 - 3 5 10.0 C o c a m i d o p r o p y l H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e / M a f o CSB-50 10.0 P r o p y l e n e G 1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben/ 0.5 Germaben I 1 Na4 EDTA 0.2 C o c a m i d e DEA/Mazamide 8 0 2.0 C C i t r i c A c i d (50%) 0.2 Ammonium C h l o r i d e Q.S. pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 300 c p s ( w i t h 0 . 0 % NH4C1) 6 , 0 0 0 c p s ( w i t h 0 . 5 % NH4C1) Appearance: White, p e a r l e s c e n t l i q u i d Procedure: P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m i x e d a n d h e a t e d t o 65C t o m e l t a n d d i s s o l v e t h e p e a r l a g e n t . H e a t i n g i s d i s c o n t i n u e d , and t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s a r e a d d e d i n o r d e r , w i t h p r o p e l l o r m i x i n g . When t h e b a t c h i s u n i f o r m , t h e pH i s a d j u s t e d w i t h c i t r i c a c i d a n d t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h ammonium c h l o r i d e . F o r m u l a t i o n N-I03

Combo Bar ( M o d i f i c a t i o n o f a n e x a m p l e f r o m US P a t e n t # 5 , 0 4 1 , 2 3 3 ) ~~

I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: T a l l o w / C o c o Soap ( 8 5 - 1 5 ) Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / Jordapon CI-75 Water S o d i um I s e t h i o n a t e / W i t c o n a t e N I S NaCl Fragrance Ti02 N a3H E EDTA BHT Procedure: B l e n d a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r a t room t e m p e r a t u r e F o r m u l a t i o n M-104

SOURCE:

PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Wt% 55.6 29.3 10.3 2.0 0.4 1.o 1 .o 0.2 0.2

Shaving Products

275

H o t Pour S v n d e t x

T h i s m i l d c l e a n s i n g b a r p r o v i d e s r i c h l a t h e r and so t s k i n as a r e s u l t o f J o r d a p o n C I - 6 0 . The f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o b e m a n u f a c t u r e d u s i n g h o t - f i l l e q u i p m e n t ; no soapmaking 1 nes a r e needed. I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name; Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / Jordapon CI-60 S t e a r y l Alcohol/CO-1895 PEG-l50/Carbowax E-8000 T r i e t h a n o l ami n e , 99% Demi n e r a l i zed Water pH ( 5 % s o l u t i o n ) :

Wt% 80.0 10.0 3.0 5.0 2.0

6.3

Procedure: W i t h a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e v e s s e l , h e a t t o 70C. B e g i n p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n when t h e b a t c h becomes f l u i d . M a i n t a i n s l o w m i x i n g u n t i l a l l s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d and t h e b a t c h becomes a u n i f o r m , n o n v i s c o u s , opaque f l u i d . F i l l m o l d s , a l l o w t o s o l i d i f y . F o r m u l a t i o n M102 Sv n d e t J3ar

M o d i f i c a t i o n o f an example i n US P a t e n t # 4 , 7 0 7 , 2 8 8 I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name:. Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / Jordapon C I - 7 5 T a l l ow/Coco Soap Water NaCl T i 02 Fragrance BHT Na3HEDTA F o r m u l a t i o n Mt03

SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

_W_t % 76.5 16.7 4.1 0.3 1.o 1.o 0.2 0.2

276

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

__ L i q u i d Soap A m i l d , high-foaming f o r m u l a t i o n which i s simple, y e t o f f e r s l u b r i c i o u s l a t h e r and s o f t s k i n a f t e r f e e l t h a n k s t o t h e J o r d a p o n C I - U P . The Mapeg EGMS p r o v i d e s a b r i g h t p e a r l e s c e n c e t o t h e s y s t e m . I t can be o m i t t e d i f a c l e a r p r o d u c t i s desi red.

P a r __ t: A

B C

I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Dei o n i zed Water Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n C I - U P Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e / S t e p a n o l AM G l y c o l S t e a r a t e / M a p e g EGMS Na4 EDTA M e t h y l Paraben

Kt 74.4 3.0 13.0 0.5 0.1 0.2

Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne/Mafo CAB Cocami de DEA/Mazamide JT-128

6.0

Fragrance C i t r i c Acid

0.2 0.1

pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 2500-3500 cps ( w i t h 0 . 6 - 0 . 9 % NaC1) Appearance: Creamy, P e a r l e s c e n t L i q u i d Procedure: M i x and h e a t t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 65C ( 1 5 0 F ) . When u n i f o r m , add t h e Mafo CAB and t h e Mazamide JT-128. Cool t h e b a t c h t o 40C (105F), add f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t pH. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .

SOURCE:

PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n N-201

2.5

Shaving Products

277

L i q u i d Hand Soap wto/, 20.8 4.0 2.0 0.5 9,s.

Ingredients:

A7 A l D h a O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e ( 1 ) ( 3 8 . 5 % a c t i v e ) A r l a t o n e MAP C o n c e n t r a t e L a u r a m i d e DEA ( 3 ) Polyquaternium-10 ( 4 ) Water

(2)

2.0

B ) Sodium C h l o r i d e q.s.

C ) 50% P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e

D) Q u a t e r n i u m - 1 5

t o pH 6 . 5 q.s.

(5)

P r e p a r a t i on : * D i s p e r s e p o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 0 i n w a t e r w t h f a s t s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous. *Add r e m a i n d e r o f ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e s t r r i n g . *Add ( B ) t o ( A ) . * A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h ( C ) . *Add ( D ) . Features: *Excel l e n t c l e a n s i n g *Smooth a f t e r f e e l *Lubricious lather (1)

B i o - T e r g e AS-40 ( S t e p a n ) , ( 2 ) C9-15 A l k y l P h o s p h a t e , ( 3 ) Monamid 1 0 3 4 ( M o n a ) , C e l q u a t SC-240 ( N a t i o n a l S t a r c h ) , D o w i c i l 2 0 0 (Dow C h e m i c a l ) V i s c o s i t y : 9 , 4 5 0 cPs ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, S t a b i l i t y : 2 1 . 0 C ( 7 0 F ) : 4 weeks 35.0C ( 9 5 F ) : 4 weeks 4 6 . 0 C ( 1 1 5 F ) : 4 weeks F/T: 4 freeze/thaw c y c l e s

SOURCE:

ICI

Surfactants:

s p i n d l e 4,

F o r m u l a t i o n CP1228

30 rpm)

278

Cosmetic and Toiletry Fofmu/ations

t i m i d Hand Soap Insredients: Standapol WAQ Special Plantaren 2000 Velvetex BK-35 PEG-150 Distearate Lantrol AWS 1692 Emerest 2355 Cosmedia Polymer HSP-1180 Kathon CG Fragrance & Dyes Water

Wt%

16.00 10.00 3.50 2.00 0.30 1.00 1.00 0.05 q.s.

Balance

Procedure: Charge kettle with water. Heat water to 60-65C. Keep temperature constant. Add remaining ingredients, one at a time, under agitation. Once uniform, take heat off and continue stirring until product has reached ambient temperature. Adjust pH to 6.0-6.5 with citric acid. Comments : By combining Standapol WAQ Special and Plantaren 2000, we are assured of a high foaming liquid hand soap that is mild to the skin. The inclusion of Lantrol 1692 and Cosmedia HSP-1180 leaves an elegant feel on the skin. Formula H-5003 Coconut-Oleic H a n d Soar, (15% Real Soap) Emery 621 Coconut Fatty Acid (acid value 263) Emersol 213 Low Titer Oleic Acid (acid value 203) Caustic potash (100%) Water

Wt% 6.5 6.5 3.0 to 100.0

Procedure: Dissolve the caustic in the necessary amount of water, heating to 49-54C (120-130F), then add the fatty acid in a slow steady stream. Agitate while mixing the fatty acid and caustic until saponification is complete. The reaction mixture should be heated to 66-71C (150-160F) during the final stages of saponification. Check the neutrality of the soap and adjust as necessary. Perfume as desired. Allow the soap to stand and settle for several days at near freezing temperatures, if possible, and decant or filter the soap. Properties and Variations: Distilled pine oil or other perfume may be added. This is a typical formula for soaps used in liquid soap dipsensers, and many such products contain fluorescein, a dye that imparts a greenish-yellow fluorescence. SOURCE: Henkel Corp./Emery Group: Suggested Formulations

Shaving Products

L. i_ q. u i-d ~ H a~ nd

279

Soap_.wJA_loe __ .

wto/, P h a s e I: Water, D . I . 41 . 7 1.2 P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e , 87% G1 y c e r i n e 1.o P h a s e I 1: L a u r i c A c i d , 97% 5.0 Kemester 5822 0.5 K e m e s t e r EGDS I .2 Phase 111: Varonic LI-63 1.o Varonic LI-420 4.0 R e w o t e r i c AM 8 - 1 5 14.2 W i t c o l a t e WAC-LA 26.7 V arox 1770 2.5 Phase I V : A l o e Vera 1.o Phase V : Preservative q.s. 81 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : H e a t P h a s e I a n d P h a s e I 1 i n g r e d i e n t s t o 75-8OC. W i t h a d e q u a t e m i x i n g a d d P h a s e I 1 t o P h a s e I.Warm P h a s e I 1 1 a n d a d d t o P h a s e I a n d Phase 11. M i x w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 45C. Add P h a s e I V . C o o l t o 30C. Add P h a s e V . Typical Properties: V i s c o s i t y , cps : 2 5 5 0 Solids: 29.0% Formula 1122 Ingredients: ~~

D e o d o r a n t _Hand Wa3b I n g r g d - i en_ts: Wt% Phase I : Water, D . I . 31 .6 W i t c o l a t e WAC-LA 40.0 V arox 365 8.5 R e w o t e r i c AM DML-35 7.2 T r i closan 0.2 Phase I 1: V a r s u l f SBFA-30 12.5 P h a s e 111: q.s. C i t r i c A c i d , 25% Phase I V : Preservative q.s. B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Add P h a s e I i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d , m i x i n g c o m p l e t e l y b e t w e e n a d d i t i o n s . Add h e a t e n o u g h t o m e l t T r i c l o s a n . Add P h a s e I 1 a t 45C. A t 35C a d j u s t pH.7.0 with C i t r i c Acid. Typical Properties: S o l i d s : 21 . 9 % pH: 7 . 0 F o r m u l a 1123

SOURCE:

W i t c o Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

280

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

L u x u r y L i q u i d Soap T h i s c l e a r f o r m u l a o f f e r s e x c e l l e n t f l a s h f o a m i n g even i n h a r d w a t e r , and p r o v i d e s s i l k y - f e e l i n g l a t h e r and a s o f t s k i n a f t e r f e e l , d e l i v e r e d by Jordapon A C I - 3 0 . The i n h e r e n t m i l d n e s s o f t h e s y s t e m i s enhanced by t h e a d d i t i o n o f Avanel S - 1 5 0 C G . Part: I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: A D e i o n i z e d Water 55.5 P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - l O / U c a r e Polymer JR-125 0.1 0.2 B N A4E DT A I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 11 5 0.2 M e t h y l Paraben 0.2 Sodium C12-15 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e / Avanel S-150 CG 4.3 12.8 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e / M a f o CAB Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n ACI-30 23.3 C Soyamide DEA/Mazamide S S - 1 0 2.0 F r a g r a n c e / F l o r a 91-2008 0.3 C i t r i c Acid 0.1 NH4Cl 1. o pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 7 V i s c o s i t y : 4 0 0 0 - 6 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d #2 @ 3rpm) Appearance: C l e a r , s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d Procedure: Blend P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s a t ambient temperature f o r about 2 0 m i n u t e s u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , and m i x a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m , a b o u t 3 0 m i n u t e s . Add t h e Mazamide SS-I0 and t h e f r a g r a n c e , m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . A d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c A c i d and v i s c o s i t y w i t h NH4C1.

SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n N-107

L i q u i d Hand Soap Insredients 1 Wt% Phase I : Water, D . I . 59.5 Phase 11: 30.0 W i t c o n a t e AOS Varamide ML-1 2.2 R e w o t e r i c AM B-15 3.1 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 0.5 2.2 Glyceryl Stearate Sodium C h l o r i d e 2.5 Phase I I 1 : P h o s p h o r i c A c i d , 86% q.s. Phase I V : P r e s e r v a t ive q.s. Blending Procedure: Warm w a t e r t o 75C. Add W i t c o n a t e AOS w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i on Add r e m a i n i n g Phase I 1 i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Cool t o 30C. A d j u s t pH=6.8 w i t h P h o s p h o r i c A c i d . I

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r D . : F o r m u l a t i o n 1126

Shaving Products

28 1

M i l d -L i a u i d Soap T h i s c l e a r f o r m u l a o f f e r s e x c e l l e n t f l a s h f o a m i n g even i n h a r d w a t e r , and p r o v i d e s s i l k y - f e e l i n g l a t h e r and a s o f t s k i n a f t e r f e e l , d e l i v e r e d b y Jordapon ACI-30 G . The i n h e r e n t m i l d n e s s o f t h e s y s t e m i s enhanced by t h e a d d i t i o n o f Avanel 5 - 1 5 0 CGN. Part: I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: 46 A D e i o n i z e d Water 55.4 P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - l O / U C a r e Polymer JR-125 0.1 B Na4EDTA 0.2 I m i d a z o l id i n y l Urea/Germal 1 11 5 0.2 M e t h y l Paraben 0.2 Sodium C12-15 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l 5-150 CGN 4.3 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne/Mafo CAB 12.8 23.3 Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n ACJ-30 G C Soyamide DEA/Mazamide S S - 1 0 2.0 F r a g r a n c e / F l o r a 91-2008 0.3 0.1 C i t r i c Acid NH4C1 1.o pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 7 V i s c o s i t y : 4,000-6,000 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d # 2 @ 3 rpm) Appearance: C l e a r , s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d Procedure: B l e n d P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e f o r a b o u t 20 m i n u t e s u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , and mix a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m , a b o u t 30 m i n u t e s . Add t h e Mazamide SS-10 and t h e f r a g r a n c e , m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d and v i s c o s i t y w i t h NH4C1. F o r m u l a t i o n N-107

wt

H o t - P o u r Syndet B a r T h i s m i l d c l e a n s i n g b a r p r o v i d e s r i c h l a t h e r and s o f t s k i n as a r e s u l t o f Jordapon C I - 6 0 F l a k e . The f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o b e m a n u f a c t u r e d u s i n g h o t - f i l l e q u i p m e n t : no soapmaking l i n e s a r e needed. __ I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: W t Y O Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / J o r d a p o n CI-60 F l a k e 80.0 S t e a r y l Alcohol/CO-1895 10.0 PEG-I 50/Carbowax PEG-8000 3.0 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne, 99% 5.0 D e m i n e r a l i z e d Water 2.0 pH ( 5 % s o l u t i o n ) : 6 . 3 Procedure: W i t h a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e v e s s e l , h e a t t o 70C. B e g i n p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n when t h e b a t c h becomes f l u i d . M a i n t a i n s l o w m i x i n g u n t i l a l l s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d and t h e b a t c h becomes a u n i f o r m , n o n v i s c o u s , opaque f l u i d . F i l l molds, a l l o w t o s o l i d i f y . F o r m u l a t i o n M-102

SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

282

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Opaque L i q u i d Soap Ingredients: wt./, A. S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed 4.0 Coconut o i l f a t t y a c i d 8.0 2.0 A r l a m o l E pop 15 s t e a r y l e t h e r Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 4.0 PEG 150 d i s t e a r a t e 3.0 Zinc stearate 2.0 B . Sodium l a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e 10.0 Sorbo s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n (USP) 5.0 P o t a s s i u m h y d r o x i d e (85%) 3.5 Water 44.2 C . Water 14.0 Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e 0.2 D . Perfume 9.s. E. Quaternium-15 0.1 Preparation : Heat ( A ) t o 7 0 C . H e a t ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and m i x w i t h Homo-mixer. Add ( C ) (room t e m p e r a t u r e ) t o (A,B) a t 6 0 C . Add ( D ) and t h e n ( E ) . S t i r t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and add w a t e r t o r e p l a c e l o s s by evaporation. Properties: pH: 9 . 1 V i s c o s i t y ( R . T . ) : 240 cps Foam volume: 840 m l i n a m o d i f i e d b l e n d e r a p p a r a t u s Test Panel: Nine out o f t e n p a n e l i s t s p r e f e r r e d t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n t o t h e l e a d i n g c o m m e r c i a l p r o d u c t . The t e n t h had no p r e f e r e n c e .

QPaque L i q u i d Soap Kt2 Ingredi ez-tx 3.0 A Tween 20 p o l y s o r b a t e 20 12.0 Ammoni um l a u r y l s u l f a t e 12.0 Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e 3.0 Cocamide DEA 2.0 A r l a m o l E pop 15 s t e a r y l e t h e r 2.0 Zinc s t e a r a t e 1.5 PEG 150 d i s t e a r a t e 5.0 B Sorbo s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n , USP 40.4 Water 18.7 C Water 0.3 Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e q.s. D Perfume 0.1 E Q u a t e r n i um-15 Preparation: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and (8) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and s t i r t o 40C. Heat (C) t o 40C and add t o ( B , A ) . Add ( D ) . Add ( E ) and r e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n . Properties: pH: 7 . 1 V i scosi t y ( R . T . ) : 1,560 cps Foam Volume: 850 m l i n a m o d i f i e d b l e n d e r a p p a r a t u s F o r m u l a AE-19 SOURCE: ICI A m e r i c a s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shaving Products

283

Or?ase_Cicu_d_..Sca N a t r o s o l 250HHR h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e e f f e c t i v e l y b o o s t s t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h i s l o w e r a c t i v e s opaque shampoo b a s e . A t a s u r f a c t a n t s o l i d s l e v e l o f o n l y 7.3%, t h e a d d i t i o n o f N a t r o s o l y i e l d s a r i c h l i q u i d soap w i t h a v i s c o s i t y o f 4 , 0 0 0 c p s (mPas) ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT a t 30 rpm, 2 5 C ) . IcLgcedi entz:. w tY. o Water 75.88 Sodium C14-Cl6 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e , 40% a c t i v e 7.50 Sodium l a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e , 30% a c t i v e 6.66 Cocamidopropyl b e t a i n e , 35% a c t i v e 6.66 Glycol stearate 1.oo N a t r o s o l 25OHHR CS h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e 0.80 Propylene g l y c o l 0.50 G1y c e r i n 0.50 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 0.30 S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e 0.10 0.10 Methyl paraben Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y d i s s o l v e d . M o d e r a t e h e a t i n g o r an i n c r e a s e i n s o l u t i o n pH t o s l i g h t l y a l k a l i n e w i l l a c c e l e r a t e h y d r a t i o n . 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e m e t h y l p a r a b e n i n t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . Add t o t h e N a t r o s o l s o l u t i o n . Mix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 3 . While s l o w l y s t i r r i n g t h e w a t e r - s o l u b l e polymer s o l u t i o n , add t h e s t e a r a l k o n i u m c h l o r i d e , o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e , and g l y c o l s t e a r a t e . Heat t h e m i x t u r e t o 8OC u n t i l a l l o f t h e g l y c o l s t e a r a t e has m e l t e d and t h e s o l u t i o n has t u r n e d opaque. 4. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l e c o o l i n g t h e s o l u t i o n s l o w l y t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . 5 . Add c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e . Formula N09-01W Transparen-t

T o i l e t Soap

w t% 65.70 Water Sodi um C14-Cl6 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e , 40% a c t i v e 20.00 Sodi um l a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e , 30% a c t i v e 10.00 Cocamide MEA 3.00 1.oo N a t r o s o l 250HR c s D i s o d i um EDTA 0.20 Methyl paraben 0.10 Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y dissolved. 2 . Add t h e m e t h y l p a r a b e n t o t h e N a t r o s o l s o l u t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y dissolved. 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine t h e s u r f a c t a n t s , h e a t t o 8 0 C , and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Add t h e s u r f a c t a n t s o l u t i o n t o t h e w a t e r - s o l u b l e p o l y m e r s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l w e l l b l e n d e d . 5 . Add t h e d i s o d i u m EDTA and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a N09-02W Ln_sr.ecliest.z ;.

SOURCE:

A q u a l o n D i v i s i o n , H e r c u l e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

284

Cosmetic and Toiletry formulations

i

.. P e a r 1...z e d

LiquFd~Soa>

T h i s system combines i m p o r t a n t p e r f o r m a n c e a t t r i b u t e s appearance, f l a s h f o a m i n g , easy r i n s a b i l i t y , and s o f t a f t e r f e e l w i t h t h e p r a c t i c a l advantages o f low c o s t and e f f i c i e n t processi ng. I n g r e d ie n t / T r a.de--yafie; Wt% P-a-r f; A Dei o n i zed Water 30.00 Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e / S t e p a n o l AM 18.50 Na4EDTA 0.20 M e t h y l Paraben 0.20 0.50 G l y c o l S t e a r a t e / M a p e g EGMS 8

D e i o n i z e d Water Ammonium C o c o y l : s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germall 115

C

C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e / M a f o CAB C o c a m i d e DEA/Mazamide J T - 1 2 8 Fragrance

D

C i t r i c Acid,

ACI-30 G

50%

28.30 9.20 0.20 3.40 0.90 0.05 0.10

E

D e i o n i z e d Water 6 . 75 1.70 Ammoni urn C h l o r i d e pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 1 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d #3 0 6 rpm) 5 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d # 3 I3 6 rpm w i t h 0 . 6 % NH4C1) A p p e a r a n c e : P e a r l e s c e n t , w h i t e 1 iq u i d Procedure: I n t h e m a i n v e s s e l , m i x a n d h e a t p a r t A t o 7 0 C . When u n i f o r m , d i s c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g and add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , c o o l i n g t h e b a t c h . P r e m i x p a r t C , and add t o t h e b a t c h . A d j u s t pH when b a t c h t e m p e r a t u r e i s 45-5SC. C o o l t h e b a t c h t o 25C, a n d a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h p a r t E. F o r m u l a t i o n N-105

SY-nAct. -8ar

M o d i f i c a t i o n of an e x a m p l e i n US P a t e n t # 4 , 7 0 7 , 2 8 8 1-naredi e n t / T r a d e Name: Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / Jordapon CI-75 T a l l o w / C o c o Soap Water NaCl Ti02 Fragrance BHT Na3HEEDTA Procedure: B l e n d a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a t i o n M-103

SOURCE! PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

&/, 76.5 16.7 4.1 0.3 1.o 1.o 0.2

0.2

-

Shaving Products

285

Surqi c a l Scrub T h i s i s an opaque l o t i o n f o r m u l a w h i c h i s s o a p - f r e e . Foaming and c l e a n s i n g i s p r o v i d e d by Avanel S - 3 5 CG and Mafo CAB, and g e r m - k i l l i n g by PCMX. A b l e n d o f e m o l l i e n t i n g r e d i e n t s s o f t e n dry areas. Part: A

0

C

D

I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: D e i o n i z e d Water H y d r o x y p r o p y l Methylcellulose/Methocel T e t r a s o d i um EDTA T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne

Wt% 40-100

Sodium O c t o x y n o l - 2 E t h a n e S u l f o n a t e / Avanel S-35 CG Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne/Mafo CAB Chloroxylenol/Phenosept Petrolatum Lanol i n Alcohol C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) Ceteareth-2O/Macol Cocamide DEA/Mazamide 8 0 Fragrance C i t r i c A c i d o r T E A t o pH 6 . 0 - 7 . 0

46.00 0.10 0.10 0.05 32.00 10.00

3.00

124

5.00 0.50 2.00 1 .25

Q.S. Q.S.

Procedure: Disperse the hydroxypropyl methylcellulose i n t h e p a r t A w a t e r a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e by m i x i n g f o r > I 0 m i n u t e s . Add t h e t e t r a s o d i u m EDTA and t h e TEA t o r a i s e t h e pH above 8 . 5 and i n i t i a t e h y d r a t i o n o f t h e hydroxypropyl m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e . Mix f o r a t l e a s t 2 0 m i n u t e s w h i l e h e a t i n g t h e b a t c h t o 60-65C. Add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m a i n t a i n i n g t h e b a t c h a t 60-65C w h i l e t h e PCMX d i s s o l v e s . B l e n d t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s i d e v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 60-65C. Add p a r t C t o t h e b a t c h w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n t o form t h e emulsion. Maintain t h i s a g i t a t i o n as t h e b a t c h i s c o o l e d t o 40-45C. Add t h e f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t t h e p H t o 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 .

SOURCE:

PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n N-108

286

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Toilet Soap Base*

wt%

Emery 531 Fatty Acid Emery 621 Coconut Fatty Acid Caustic soda (36%) (40.7 Baume) Water Salt Sodium silicate Titanox Perfume

48.37 12.09 26.39 10.08 0.19 1.92 0.96 q.s.

Floatins SoaD* Wtg

Emery 531 Fatty Acid Emery 621 Coconut Fatty Acid Caustic soda (36%) (40.7 Baume) Water Salt Sodium silicate Perfume

43.13 18.48 28.98 5.37 0.19 3.85 q.s.

*Formulations 1 and 2 require normal bar soap manufacturing procedures; as well as specialized equipment including soap kettles, crutchers, plodders, and cutting and stamping equipment Formulation 2 requires special processing to float. Pine Oil Hand Soap (15% Real Soap1 Emery 621 Coconut Fatty Acid (acid value 263) Caustic potash (100%) Pine oil (steam distilled) Water

Wt$ 12.7 3.3 3.2 to 100.0

Procedure: Dissolve the caustic in the necessary amount of water, heating to 49-54C (120-130F), then add the fatty acid in a slow steady stream. Agitate while mixing the fatty acid and caustic until saponification is complete. The reaction mixture should be heated to 66-71C (150-160F) during the final stages of saponification. The pine oil is added to the mixture following saponification. Check the neutrality of the soap and adjust as necessary. Perfume as desired. Allow the soap to stand and settle for several days at near freezing temperatures, if possible, and decant or filter the soap. SOURCE: Henkel Corp., Emery Group: Fatty Acids and Their Water Soluble Soaps: Suggested Formulations

Shaving Products

287

U l t r a - W a t e r l e s s Hand C l e a n e r w i t h A b r a s i v e Formula P r o f i l e : The s y n e r g i s t i c m i x t u r e o f Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l w i l l c r e a t e a l i g h t w a t e r l e s s hand c l e a n i n g l o t i o r i t h a t w i l l have g r e a t s p r e a d a b i l i t y and f e e l w i t h o u t t h e t a c k and s t r i n g i n e s s c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f R h o d i g e l . Veegum U l t r a w i l l i m p r o v e s t a b i l i t y , suspend t h e a b r a s i v e s and m a i n t a i n v i s c o s i t y o f t h e p r o d u c t . The f o r m e d soap i s P o t a s s i u m O l e a t e and t h e D-Limonene i s t h e natural cleaner. Wt% Innredi ents: A : Water 59.3 Veegum U l t r a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ) 1.5 0.5 Rhodi g e l ( X a n t h a n Gum) 6: O l e i c Acid Mineral O i l Cetyl Alcohol Lanol i n C:

Water P o t a s s i um H y d r o x i d e

9.0 5.0 1.o 1.o 2.0 0.7

D : D-Limonene

10.0

E:

10.0

P o l y e t h y l e n e Beads (A-C 9-A)

F: P r e s e r v a t i v e

qs

Procedure: S t e p I : D r y b l e n d Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l i n P a r t A . ( D r y b l e n d i n g r e d u c e s t h e c l u m p i n g o f R h o d i g e l and a l l o w s f o r t h e s i m u l t a n e o u s i n t r o d u c t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t s ) . S i f t t h e powder i n t o an e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n t h e w a t e r . Veegum U l t r a w i l l be h y d r a t e d w i t h i n 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w a b o u t 45 m i n u t e s f o r R h o d i g e l t o d i s s o l v e c o m p l e t e l y . The a d d i t i o n o f any o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n process w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum U l t r a and w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d by t h e Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e . S t e p 2 : B e g i n h e a t i n g w a t e r phase i n S t e p 1 t o 75C. S t e p 3 : B l e n d o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t B and h e a t t h e o i l phase t o 75C. S t e p 4 : When b o t h phases a r e a t 75C, add o i l phase i n S t e p 3 t o w a t e r phase S t e p 2 . S t e p 5 : Cool t o 45C. D i s s o l v e t h e KOH i n w a t e r and add P a r t C t o Step 2. S t e p 6 : Cool t o 35C. Add P a r t D t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 7 : Add P a r t E t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 8 : Add P a r t F t o S t e p 2 . Product S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LVT: 2 0 , 0 0 0 t - 3 , 0 0 0 cps a f t e r 24 h o u r s pH: 8 . 0 - 8 . 5 T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a s t a b l e p r o d u c t t h a t passes 3 month s t a b i l i t y t e s t i n g a t RT, 5C, 3 8 C , 50C and 3 c y c l e F / T . SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t C o , , I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 478

288

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W a t e r l e s s Hand C l e a n e r Cream F o r m u l a SK-20 i s a w a t e r l e s s hand c l e a n e r cream based on d e o d o r i z e d k e r o s e n e as t h e c l e a n s i n g a g e n t .

WtO/o

Ingredients: A Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 i c a t e

Water B A r l a c e l 60 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e Tween 60 P o l y s o r b a t e 60 Deodorized kerosene C M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e , 4000 cps Water Preservative

2.5 30.0 2.0 8.0 35% 0 0.5 22.0 q.s

Preparation : P a r t ( A ) : Add magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e t o w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l smooth ( a b o u t one h o u r ) . Heat ( A ) t o 62C. P a r t ( B ) : Heat ( B ) t o 60C. Add ( A ) t o ( 6 ) . S t i r u n t i l c o o l . P a r t ( C ) : Heat h a l f o f t h e w a t e r t o 9OC. Add m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e v e r y s l o w l y . M i x t h r o u g h l y t o d i s p e r s e m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e . Add t h e r e m a i n d e r o f t h e w a t e r . Cool and add (C) t o t h e e m u l s i o n (A,B b l e n d ) . M i x we1 1 . R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n . F o r m u l a SK-20 d - L i monene Hand C1 e a n e r Ingredients: A d-Limonene A r l a m o l E PPG 15 S t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 35 L i q u i d L a u r e t h - 2 3 B r i j 72 S t e a r e t h - 2

B Water C a r b o p o l 934 D D o w i c i l 200

Wt% 15.00 15.00 2.30 4.35 62.75 0.50 0.10

Preparation: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 934 i n w a t e r . H e a t ( A ) t o 60C and (B) t o 62C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) a t a b o u t 50C. S t i r t o 35C and r e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n . F o r m u l a SK-21

SOURCE: ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Section XI Sun Care Products

289

290

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

__C l e a r L i q u i d Sunblock H a r d t o d i s s o l v e Benzophenone-3 i n s t a n t l y s o l u b i l i z e s i n V e l s a n D8P-3 l i q u i d t o p r o d u c e t h e s e c o l d m i x s u n b l o c k s s i m i l a r t o p o p u l a r "Pre-Sun" p r o d u c t s . I n a d d i t i o n t o benzophenone-3 s o l u b i l i z a t i o n , V e l s a n D8P-3 a l s o i m p a r t s an e x c e l l e n t n o n - g r e a s y a f t e r f e e l t o t h e formula. SPF 1 5 CL9-145-02

I ng.r ed ien t s :

wt%

V e l s a n D8P-3 Benzophenone-3 SD A l c o h o l 40-2 Propylene Glycol D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e O c t y l d imet h y l PABA C y c l o m e t h i cone

10.0 3.0 25.0 5.0

7.0 50.0

Procedure: D i s s o l v e Benzophenone-3 i n t o t h e V e l s a n D8P-3. Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n any o r d e r and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. SPF20-25 CL9-145-03 Ingredients: V e l s a n D8P-3 Benzophenone-3 SD A l c o h o l 40-2 Propylene Glycol D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Cyclomethicone

. W_ t% 10.0 6.0 24.1 4.6

7.0 48.3

Procedure: D i s s o l v e Benzophenone-3 i n t o t h e V e l s a n D8P-3. Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n any o r d e r and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. SOURCE :

Cl a r i a n t Corp. : Ref : CLQ-145-02, 03 : CSS-01

Sun Care Products

291

Dry Touch Physical Sunscreen

This formula is not an emulsion but rather a suspension of several water-insoluble ingredients in water. The suspending agent Veegum Plus prevents these ingredients from settling and/or separating. The physical sunscreen used is micronized Titanium Dioxide. This formula also contains liposomes with a payload of the well-known moisturizing agents liposomes Sodium PCA and amino acids. A silicone oil dispersion is also included to enhance application properties. The formula contains no emulsifying agents. Insredients: A: Deionized Water Veegum Plus, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (and) Cellulose Gum Rhodigel, Xanthan Gum

Wt.%* 59.70

8: Glycerin (and) Titanium Dioxide (Ti02 Sperse GLY)

28.60

C: Deionized Water (and) Phenyltrimethicone (and) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Phospholipids (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Carbomer (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben (Satin Finish) D: Preservative E: Deionized Water (and) Sodium PCA (and) Phospholipids (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Arginine (and) Lysine (and) Glycine (and) Methylparaben (and) Proline (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben (Moisturizing Liposomes)

1.50 0.20

5.00

q.s

5.00

Procedure: Weigh and dry blend the Veegum Plus and Rhodigel. Add the blend to the Part A water at room temperature, mixing with a propeller mixer at 1800 rpm. Continue mixing for 30 minutes. Add Part B and mix 10 minutes at 1800 rpm. Add Parts C and D to the batch in the order shown. Mix Part C for 10 minutes at 1800 rpm before adding Part D. Mix Part D 5 minutes at the same speed. Slow the mixer to 500 rpm and add Part E. Mix 5 minutes and package. *As received basis

SOURCE: R.T. Vanderbilt Co., Inc.: Formulation No. 4 6 4

292

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Enriched Moisturizinq Lotion (Before

&

After Tanning)

Inqredients: Sesame Oil U.S.P. Polysynlane Glyceryl Monostearate Isopropyl Myristate Carbopol 934 Propylene Glycol Triethanolamine Anhydrous Lanolin Water

Wt$ 15.0 20.0 3.0 10.0 0.2 10.0 1.0 5.0 ad 100.0

Other Uses: 1. Polysynlane has food additive approval from the Welfare Ministry of Japan and was authorized for use as an additive for a chewing gum base. 2. Polysynlane is a refined hydrogenated polyisobutene, which has FDA approval (Subpart F 121.2511) for use as a plasticizer in polyethylene food wrap. 3. Polysynlane has found use as a special lubricant for fine instruments and watches, and is being investigated as an ultra low temperature lubricant and motor oil additive. Sunscreen Spray

NO. Phase: 1 2 3

4 5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12

A A A A A A A B B B B B

Inqredient: Cyclomethicone DC 345 Polysynlane Grapeseed Oil Sunflower Seed Oil Vitamin E Acetate Tenox 6 Fragrance Novarome NC-4% Ceraphyl 230 Octyl Methoxycinnamate Oxybenzone Octyl Salicylate Transcutol

Wt% 55.60 10.00 2.00 2.50 0.25 0.15 0.50 5.00 7.50 4.00 5.00 7.50

Manufacturing Instructions Combine Phase A. Combine Phase B. Add Phase B to Phase A. Package. An easy to apply spray that leaves the skin protected from both UVA and UVB radiation. It spreads quickly and is completely non-greasy. The anticipated SPF is 15. The formulation exhibits excellent solubilization of the oxybenzone, which is often seen to crystallize out. SOURCE: Polyesther Corp.: Suggested Formulations

Sun Care Products

M i c r o f i n e T i t a n i urn D i o x i d e S u n s c r e e n ( O / W ) __ Broad S p e c t r u m UVA/UVB P r o t e c t i o n

293

L o t ion

_ INC _ I _ NameLTLade _ Name:

Q

Phase A : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 165 S t e a r e t h - 1 O/Vol po S - 1 0 S t e a r e t h - 2 / V o l p o S-2 Mineral Oil/Drakeol 7 L t C12-15 A1 c o h o 1 s B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN D i o c t y l A d i p a t e / D e r m o l DOA C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e / A b i 1 Wax 9 8 0 1 C e r e s i n wax/Whi t e C e r e s i n e 1 5 0 2 Diisostearoyl Trimethylolpropane Siloxy Silicate/SF1318

5-00 2.00 1.oo 8.00 4.00 2.00 1 .50 1.oo 3.00

Phase 8 : T i t a n i um D i o x i d e / E u s o l e x T - 2 0 0 0

5.00

Phase C : Water, d e m i n e r a l i z e d G1 y c e r i n / E m e r y 91 6 Allantoin/Rona M a g n e s i um A 1 umi nun1 S i 1 i c a t e / V e e g u m U 1 t r a X a n t h a n G u m / K e l t r o l RD Phase D: ( I s o p r o p y l paraben, I s o b u t y l paraben, p h e n o x y e t h a n o l ) / L i q u a P a r PE

n-butyl

57.30 3.00 0.20 1.oo 0.30 paraben, 0.70

Procedure: Combine w a t e r , g l y c e r i n a n d a l l a n t o i n o f p h a s e C . S t i r a n d h e a t t o 65C. Dr; m i x x a n t h a r gum a n d magnesium a l u m i n u m s i l i c a t e . Add d r y m i x t u r e t o r e m a i n i n g p h a s e C i n g r e d i e n t s . Combine p h a s e A i n g r e d i e n t s . S t i r a n d h e a t t o 75C u n t i l waxes a r e c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d . C o o l t o 65C a n d m a i n t a i n a t t h i s t e m p erature. Add p h a s e B t o A . D i s p e r s e w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x e r . Add p h a s e C t o A/B w h i l e m i x i n g . H o m o g e n i z e a l l o w i n g m i x t u r e t o c o o l t o 35C. Add p h a s e D a n d s t i r / o r h o m o g e n i z e u n t i 1 m i x t u r e i s homogeneous. Note : V i s c o s i t y : 2 6 , 4 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d RV#5, 10 rpm (a 23C) S t a b i l i t y F r e e z e / T h a w : No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 5 c y c l e s S t a b i l i t y 50C: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 1 m o n t h SOURCE: Rona/EM

I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a EUS6-60

294

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

M i c r o f i n e T i t a n 1 urn D i 0 x 1 d e S u n s c r e e n cW/O) Broad. Spectrum U V A l U V B P r o t e c t i o n

Lot 1 o n

I N C I N a m e / T r a d e Name: Phase A : O c t y l S t e a r a t e / C r o d a m o l 0s J o l o b a O i l / F l o r a e s t e r s J o i o b a 01 1 , R e f i n e d C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s / M y r i to1 3 1 8 P e t r o l a t u m / U l t i ma w h i t e C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d D i m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 200 f l u i d , 1 0 0 cST PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d o r y s t e a r a t e / A r l a c e i P135 Polyglyceryl-4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Cetyl Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e / A b i l WE-09 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e / C r o d a f o s CES C e r e s i n VJax/White C e r e s i n e 1 5 0 2 Phase 5 : Dei o n i zed Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l A1 1 a n t o i n / R o n a Sod1 um C h l o r i d e

Wt%

7.00 4.00 4.00

3.00 3.00 2.00 2 50

2 50 1.00 0 50

56.30 3.00 0.20

0.50

P h a s e C: T i t a n i u r i i D i o x i d e / E u s o l e x T-2000

10.00

Phase D : ( I s o p r o p y l paraben, I s o b u t y l paraben, Ph e n o x y e t h a n o 1 j / L i q u a Pa r PE

n-butyl

paraben,

0.50

Procedure: C o m b i n e p h a s e A . H e a t t o 75C w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l h o m o g e n e o u s . Add p h a s e C t o A . C o o l m i x t u r e t o 65C. C o m b i n e a n d h e a t p h a s e 13 t o 55C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l s o l i d s a r e f u l l y d i s s o l v e d . S l o w l y add phase 5 t o AC : w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add p h a s e D t o A / B / C . H o m o g e n i z e a t moderate speeds t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e c o o l s t o 35C. S t i r s l o w l y a l l o w i n g m i x t u r e t o r e a c h r o o m t e m p e r a t u r e . Note: V i s c o s i t y : 16,000 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d RV#5, 10 rpm @ 2 5 C j S t a b i l i t y F r e e z e / T h a w : No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 5 c y c l e s S t a b i l i t y a t 50C: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 3 m o n t h s

SOURCE:

Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a EUS5-64

Sun Care Products

295

Microfine Titanium Dioxide Sunscreen (W/O1 Lotion SPF 11 Broad Spectrum W A / W B Protection INCI Name/Trade Name: Phase A : Octyl Stearate/Crodamol 0 s Jojoba Oil/Floraesters Jojoba Oil, Refined Caprylic/capric Triglycerides/Myritol 318 Petrolatum/Ultima White Cyclomethicone/Dow Corning 344 Fluid Dimethicone/Dow Corning 200 fluid 50cST PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate/Arlacel P135 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Hexyl Laurate/Abil WE-09 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Phosphate/Crodafos CES Ceresin Wax/White Ceresine 1502 Phase B: Deionized Water Propylene Glycol Allantoin/Rona Sodium Chloride

Wt% 7.00

4.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 2.00 2.50 2.50 1.00 0.50 61.30 3.00 0.20 0.50

Phase C: Titanium Dioxide/Eusolex T-2000

5.00

Phase D: (Isopropyl paraben, Isobutyl paraben, n-Butyl paraben, phenoxyethanol)/LiquaPar PE

0.50

Procedure: Combine phase A. Heat to 75C with propeller mixer agitation until homogeneous, Add phase C to A. Cool mixture to 65C. Combine and heat phase B to 55C while stirring. Continue stirring until solids are fully dissolved. Slowly add Phase B to A/C while stirring. Add phase D to A/B/C. Homogenize at moderate speeds to avoid aeration until temperature cools to 35C. Stir slowly allowing mixture to reach room temperature. Note : Viscosity 18,800 cps (Brookfield RV#5, 10 rpm @ 25C) Stability Freeze/Thaw: No separation after 5 cycles Stability at 50C: No separation after 2 months SOURCE: Rona/EM Industries, Inc.: Formula EUS5-62

296

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil a n d E m u l s i f i e r F r e e S u n s c r e e n L o t i o n V e l s a n D8P-16 a c t s as a s o l u b i l i z e r f o r t h e s u n s c r e e n a g e n t s and a l s o i m p a r t s an e x c e l l e n t n o n - g r e a s y a f t e r f e e l t o t h e s e p r o d u c t s . The f o r m u l a t i o n s a r e o i l f r e e , e m u l s i f i e r f r e e and a l s o e x h i b i t g e l -1 ik e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . Formul a CSS-05 :

I n x e d ien t s :

82%

Phase A : SD A l c o h o l 39C Hydroxypropyl C e l l u l o s e

45 24 1.50

Phase B : Vel san D8P-16 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Benzophenone-3 SD A l c o h o l 39C Fragrance

9.64 7.50 3.00 24.30 0.60

Phase C : D e i o n i z e d Water

I

9.76

Formul a CSS-06 :

I n g r ed ien t S_L

W.

t%

Phase A : SD A l c o h o l 39C Hydroxypropyl C e l l u l o s e

44.24 1.50

Phase B : Vel san D8P-16 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate P a r s o l 1789* Benzophenone-3 SD A l c o h o l 39C Fragrance

9.64 7.50 1.oo 3.00 24.30 0.60

Phase C : Dei o n i zed Water

9.76

Procedure: D i s p e r s e h y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e i n SD A l c o h o l . M i x u n t i l a c l e a r g e l d e v e l o p s . F o r Phase 8, add a l l i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t SD A l c o h o l and F r a g r a n c e i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . Heat t o 45C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous. Cool t o 35C and add t h e a l c o h o l and f r a g r a n c e w i t h m i x i n g . Add Phase B t o Phase A and m i x w e l l . When Phase A/Phase B m i x t u r e i s homogeneous, add Phase C s l o w l y and mix c o m p l e t e l y . Properties: pH: 6 . 9 V i s c o s i t y : 73OOt-500 c p s Appearance: C l o u d y , l i g h t y e l l o w g e l - l i k e l o t i o n * P a r s o l 1789 i s n o t y e t FDA a p p r o v e d . SOURCE: C l a r i a n t C o r p . : R e f : CL19-39: CSS-05 and CSS-06

Sun Care Products

297

OLW Emoll ie n t S u n s c r e e n L o t i o n s

_uVz3-fSE_FS*) L g g r e d j e_n_ts; A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA A r l a m o l E, PPG-15 S t e a r y l e t h e r Stearyl alcohol Dimethicone A r l a s o l v e 200 I s o c e t e t h - 2 0 B r i ] 72

1.o 3.1 3.9

77.1 0.2

0 Water

Carbomer 934 C Sodium h y d r o x i d e ,

w_to/, 5.0 7.0 2.5

10% a q u e o u s

D P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e

0.2 q.s

UV-4 (SPF 15*) Ingredients: A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Benzophenone-3 A r l a m o l E , PPG-15 S t e a r y l e t h e r Stearyl alcohol D i m e t h i cone A r l a s o l v e 200 I s o c e t e t h - 2 0 B r i ] 72

Wt% 7.0 3.0 7.0 2.5 1.o 3.1 3.9

72.1 0.2

B Water Carbomer 934 C Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n ,

10% a q u e o u s

D P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e

0.2 9,s.

Preparation: D i s p e r s e Carbomer 9 3 4 i n w a t e r a n d h e a t ( 5 ) t o 6 0 C . H e a t ( A ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y a d d (C) a n d i n c r e a s e s p e e d o f a g i t a t i o n a s n e e d e d . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C and r e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . * E s t i m a t e d Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r

SOURCE: ICI

Surfactants:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

298

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W M o i sturi z i nB Sunscreen C r e m

Uv-Lm-6.9 WtO%

-. I n..g r e d i e n t s : A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Mineral o i l Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721, S t e a r e t h - 2 1 B r i j 72, S t e a r e t h - 2 Dimethicone

5.0 5.0 0.5 2.0 2.0 0.5

B Water C a r b o m e r 940

04.6 0.2

C Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n ,

10% aqueous

D P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e UV-2

q.s.

(SPF 15*j Wt% 7.0 3.0

I n g r e d i ents-i A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Benzophenone-3 Mineral oil Stearyl alcohol B r i ] 721, S t e a r e t h - 2 1 B r i j 72, S t e a r e t h - 2 D i m e t h i cone

5.0 0.5 2.0 2.0 0.5

B Water

79.6 2.0

Carbomer 940 C Sodium h y d r o x i d e ,

0.2

10% a q u e o u s

D P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e

0.2 q.s.

Preparation: D i s p e r s e Carbomer 940 i n w a t e r a n d h e a t ( 6 ) t o 6 0 C . H e a t ( A ) t o 6 5 C . Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y a d d ( C ) a n d i n c r e a s e s p e e d o f a g i t a t i o n a s n e e d e d . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C a n d replace water l o s t by evaporation. * E s t i m a t e d Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r

SOURCE:

I C I Surfactants:

Formulas UV-1 & UV-2

Sun Care Products

299

O i 1 - i n - W a t e r S u n M i 1 k w i t h H i q h SPF ( p h y s i c a l and chemical f i l t e r s ) Inoredients: A r l a m o l HO Arlamol S7 P a r s o l MCX* P a r s o l 1789* L o r o l C18* A n t a r o n V-220* Vitamin E Acetate* O i s o d i um EDTA

15.0 4.0 6.0 3.0 2.0 3.0 1.o 0.1

A r l a t o n e 2121 A t l a s G-2330 Water Kelt r o l * Preservative T i o v e i l AQ* C i t r i c a c i d (20% s o l u t i o n )

5.5 4.0 43.8 0.1 q . s. 12.5 t o pH 6 . 5 - 7

Manufacture: 1 . D i s p e r s e T i o v e i l AQ i n w a t e r a n d a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 w i t h acid. 2 . Homogenise t h e w a t e r phase i n t e n s i v e l y f o r one m i n u t e . 3 . Add A r l a t o n e 2 1 2 1 a n d o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e . 4 . H e a t B t o 85C. 5 . H e a t t h e o i l p h a s e A t o 8OC. 6 . Add A t o t h e h o t a q u e o u s p h a s e B w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . H o m o g e n i s e t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r o n e m i n u t e . 8 . A l l o w t o c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . 9 . C o n t r o l pH a n d a d j u s t i f n e c e s s a r y t o pH 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 . Comments : V i s c o s i t y : 6 , 2 4 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT,

s p i n d l e D,

rpm 6 )

* P a r s o l MCX ( O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e , I N C 1 ) - G i v a u d a n - R o u r e P a r s o l 1789 ( B u t y l M e t h o x y d i b e n z o y l m e t h a n e , INC1)-GivaudanRoure L o r o l C18 ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l , I N C 1 ) - H e n k e l A n t a r o n V-220 ( P V P / E i c o s e n e C o p o l y m e r , 1 N C I ) - R o c h e V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e ( T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e , INC1)-Roche K e l t r o l ( X a n t h a n Gum, I N C 1 ) - K e l c o T i o v e i l AQ ( T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( a n d ) W a t e r , I N C 1 ) - T i o x i d e

SOURCE:

ICI

Surfactants:

F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-14

300

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil-in-Water-

P r o t e c t i o n Cream

Ingredients: P a r a f f i n o i l perliquidurn* A r l a m o l HD A r l a m o l S7 P a r s o l MCX* P a r s o l 1789* Vitamin E acetate* S t e n o l 1822A* Anti -oxidant

10.0 5.0 4.0 5.0 5.0 1.o 2.0 q.s. 5.5 4.0 q.s. 62.9

A r l a t o n e 2121 G1 y c e r o l Preservative Water Rhodopol SC*

0.1

P e r f ume

q. s .

Manufacture: 1 . M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t h e h e a t e d w a t e r phase a t 8OC u n d e r m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s f o r m e d . 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e h e a t e d aqueous phase a t 75C w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . 3 . Add t h e h e a t e d o i l phase t o t h e aqueous phase under i n t e n s i v e stirring. 4 . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r o n e m i n u t e . 5 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . 6 . Add h e a t - s e n s i t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . Comment : D u r i n g t h e c o o l i n g p r o c e s s ( s t e p 5 ) , when A r l a t o n e 2121 e m u l s i o n s t a r t s t o b u i l d up i n t h e l a m e l l a r c r y s t a l l i n e s t r u c t u r e , m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g i s recommended. I n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g can b r e a k down t h e l a m e l l a r s t r u c t u r e and can r e d u c e t h e f i n a l The v i s c o s i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n is in v e r s e l y p r o p v i scosi t y o r t i o n a l t o t h e m i x i n g e n e r g y t h a t has been p u t i n t o t h e e m u l s i o n d u r i n g manufacture.

.

Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 159.120 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e E , 1 . 5 rpm) Energy i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o t h e f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . * P a r a f f i n o i l p e r l i q u i d u m ( M i n e r a l O i l , INC1)-Merck P a r s o l MCX ( O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e , 1NCI)-Givaudan-Roure P a r s o l 1 7 8 9 ( B u t y l Methoxybenzoylmenthane, 1NCI)-GivaudanRoure V i t a m i n E a c e t a t e ( T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e , INC1)-Roche S t e n o l 1822A ( B e h e n y l A l c o h o l , INC1)-Henkel Rhodopol SC ( X a n t h a n Gum, INC1)-Rhone-Poulenc SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s :

F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-2

Sun Care Products

Oi 1 - i n - W a t e r

Sun P r o t e c t i v e Cream w i t h " N a t u r a l "

Sun F i l t e r

Ingredients: A A r l a m o l HD A r l a m o l S7 P a r a f f i n o i l perliquidurn* L o r o l C18* Vitamin E acetate*

wto/, 5.0 4.0

10.0 2.0 1.o 12.5 5.5

B T i o v e i l AQ* A r l a t o n e 2121 G1 y c e r o l Keltr o l D i s o d i um EDTA Preservative Sorbic acid Demi n e r a l i s e d w a t e r

4.0

*

0.1

0.1 q.s 0.2 t o 100

Manufacture: 1 . D i s p e r s e T i o v e i l AQ i n w a t e r a n d a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 w i t h acid. 2 . Homogenise t h e w a t e r phase i n t e n s i v e l y f o r one m i n u t e . 3 . Add A r l a t o n e 2 1 2 1 a n d o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e . 4 . H e a t B t o 85C. 5 . H e a t t h e o i l p h a s e A t o 80C. 6 . Add A t o t h e h o t a q u e o u s p h a s e B w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . H o m o g e n i s e t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r o n e m i n u t e . 8 . A l l o w t o c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . 9 . C o n t r o l pH a n d a d j u s t i f n e c e s s a r y t o pH 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 .

Comments : V i s c o s i t y ( a f t e r 1 week): 46,490 s p i n d l e E, 6 r p m ) Energy i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o f i n a l

mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, formulation viscosity

* P a r a f f i n o i 1 p e r l i q u i d u m ( M i n e r a l O i l , INC1)-Merck Lorol C18 ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l , I N C 1 ) - H e n k e l V i t a m i n E a c e t a t e ( T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e , INC1)-Roche T i o v e i l AQ ( T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( a n d ) W a t e r , I N C 1 ) - T i o x i d e K e l t r o l ( X a n t h a n Gum, I N C 1 ) - K e l c o

SOURCE:

301

ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u l a t i o n F 4 1 - 5 - 1 3

302

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

S.e!_f_la~_ns__c_cea~~-W~U~._~i~~er.~ COWWl SPF.IS-.~OAVA-.PF_S ..S.l.Su.! ..?rot-ectiol?. Fa_cto_r,~_Di.ffey M e t h o d ) ..INCI Nam_eiTrade._N.a.me:. ~. Wt% Phase A: Octyl Methoxycinnamate/Neo Heliopan AV 5.00 Eenzophenone-3/Eusolex 4360 2.00 Glyceryl Stearate (and) Steareth-25 (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Stearyl Alcohol/Tego-Care 150 8.00 Cetearyl Alcohol/Lanette 0 1.50 Stearoxy Dimethicone/Abil Wax 2434 1 .60 Cetearyl Octanoate/Luvi to1 EHO 5.00 Paraffin Liquid 3.00 Capryl ic/Capri c Tri glyceri de/Mi glyol 81 2 neutral oi 1 5.00 Di methi cone/Dow Corning 200 (350 cs) 0.50 Phase B: 1 , 2 - P r o p a n e d i o l / P r o p y l e n e Glycol 3.00 Methyl Paraben 0.15 Propyl Paraben 0.05 Dei oni zed Water 50.20 Phase C: Dihydroxyacetone/Rona 5.00 Deionized Water 10.00 Procedure:

Heat phase A to 75C, phase 8 to 80C. Add phase 6 slowly to phase A while stirrinq. Homogenize. Cool down while stirring and add phase C at 40c. Note:

Viscosity: 38,800 cp (Brookfield RVT, Sp. F

10 rpm) at 26C

Sunscreen Cream SPF 12 INCI Name/Trade Name: Phase A : Deionized Water Carbomer (2% aq. solution)/Carbopol 980 Propylene Glycol Methyl Paraben Propyl Paraben Triethanolamine (99%) Tetrasodi u m EDTA Phase B: Octyl Methoxycinnamate/Neo Heliopan AV Benzophenone-3/Eusolex 4360 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 StearateIArlacel 165 Cyclomethicone/Dow Corning 344 Fluid Glyceryl Stearate Stearic Acid/Emersol 132, NF Isostearyl Isostearate/Prisorine ISIS 2039 Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Castorwax C12-15 Alcohols Benzoate/Finsolv TN

Wt% 44.23 15.00 5.00 0.20 0.10 0.45 0.02 5.00 3.00 1 .oo 5.00 4.00 2.50 10.00 2.00 2.50

Procedure:

Add Phase A ingredients to main vessel under impeller agitation. Heat Phase A to 75-8OC. Combine Phase B ingredients; heat and m i x to 85C. Slowly add Phase B to batch; mix for 15 minutes at 85C. Remove from heat; switch to paddle mixing and cool to RT. S O U R C E : Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a 0 6 - 1 3 / K & E U S 2 - 9 3 - 2

Sun Care Products

303

Sel f T a n n i n g Cream W/UV F i 1 t e r (O/W) 20.5/UVA PF 8.5 ( S u n P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r , D i f f e y M e t h o d l

___. SPF

I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Neo H e l i o p a n AV B u t y l M e t h o x y d i b e n z o y l m e t h a n e / P a r s o l 1789 C e t e a r e t h - 1 1 / M a r l i p a l 1618 Cetearyl Alcohol/Lanette 0 C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e / L u v i t o l EHO C12-15 A1 k y l B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e / M i g l y o l 812 n e u t r a l o i 1 Phase B : 1,2-Propanediol/Propylene G l y c o l M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben Dei o n i zed Water Phase C : Dihydroxyacetone/Rona Dei o n i zed Water

Wt%

5.00 1.50 3.00 7.00 5.00 2.50 2.50 4.00 0.15 0.05 54.30 5.00 10.00

Procedure: Heat phase phase A w h i l e and add phase Note: Viscosity:

A t o 75C,

stirring. C a t 40C.

p h a s e B t o 8OC. Add p h a s e B s l o w l y t o H o m o g e n i z e . C o o l down w h i l e s t i r r i n g

4 1 , 7 0 0 c p ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, S p . C ,

1 0 r p m ) a t 26C

_S ~ u_ n _s c_r_e_e_n_ _Cream _ _ _ _ _SPF 9 ___I N C I Name/Trade

Name:

W32h

Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water 29.53 Carbomer ( 2 % a q . s o l u t i o n ) / C a r b o p o l 9 8 0 15.00 Propylene Glycol 5.00 M e t h y l Paraben 0.20 P r o p y l Paraben 0.10 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 0.45 Phase B : D e i o n i z e d Water 10.00 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0.02 Phenylbenzimidazole S u l f o n i c A c i d (% as a c i d ) / E u s o l e x 232 4.00 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 4.20 Phase C : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 165 1 .oo C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i ny 3 4 4 F1 u i d 5.00 S t e a r i c A c i d / E m e r s o l 1 3 2 , NF 5.00 I s o s t e a r y l I s o s t e a r a t e / P r i s o r i n e I S I S 2039 10.00 C12-15 A l c o h o l s B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN 10.50 Procedure: Add Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s t o m a i n v e s s e l u n d e r i m p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . H e a t Phase A t o 75-8OC. Combine Phase B i n g r e d i e n t s ; m i x t o c l a r i t y w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 70C. S l o w l y a d d Phase B t o Phase A . M i x c o m b i n e d p h a s e s a t 75-8OC. Combine Phase C i n g r e d i e n t s ; h e a t a n d m i x t o 85C. S l o w l y a d d Phase C t o b a t c h ; m i x f o r 15 m i n u t e s a t 85C. Remove f r o m h e a t ; s w i t c h t o p a d d l e m i x i n g a n d c o o l t o RT. SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a 4 6 - 0 8 / K & E U S 2 - 4 7 - 5

304

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

S e l f T a n n i n q L o t i o n (O/W) I N C I Name/Trade Name:us/, Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water 40.15 X a n t h a n Gum/Kel t r o l 0.75 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 5.00 Methylparaben 0.20 0.10 Propyl paraben Phase B: S t e a r e t h - l O / B r i j 76 0.70 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 1 6 5 1.20 PEG-40 S t e a r a t e / M y r j 52-S 0.40 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) Ceteareth-20/Cosmowax J 1.oo C e t e a r y l A1 c o h o 1 1 .50 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 5.00 0.50 D i m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d 100 c s O c t y l d o d e c y l N e o p e n t a n o a t e / E l e f a c 1-205 28.50 Phase C : D e i o n i z e d Water 10.00 Dihydroxyacetone/Rona 5.00 Procedure: Charge phase A w a t e r i n t o m a i n v e s s e l . Under l o w homoyenizat i o n , s p r i n k l e i n x a n t h a n gum, m i x t o u n i f o r m i t y . C h a r g e r e m a i n i rig Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s . Mai n t a i n i n g homogeni z a t i o n , h e a t p h a s e A t o 75-8OC. Combine p h a s e B i n g r e d i e n t s i n s i d e v e s s e l . M i x p h a s e B w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 85C. E m u l s i f y b y a d d i n g p h a s e B t o phase A; a d j u s t h o m o g e n i z e r speed as n e c e s s a r y t o e n s u r e a d e q u a t e b a t c h t u r n o v e r . H o l d b a t c h a t 85C f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s . S w i t c h f r o m h o m o y e n i z a t i o n t o i m p e l l e r m i x i n g a t 60C. Combine p h a s e C a t room t e m p e r a t u r e ; m i x t o u n i f o r m i t y . Add p h a s e C t o b a t c h a t 40C. M i x b a t c h u n t i l i t r e a c h e s room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a EUS2-27-2

_ S e_ l f T a n n i n g L o t i o n (W/O) Wt% I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone Copolyol/Dow C o r n i n g 3225C 23.60 Phase B: 5.00 Dihydroxyacetone/Rona 1,2-Propanediol/Propylene G l y c o l 35.90 M e t h y l Paraben 0.15 P r o p y l Paraben 0.05 D e i o n i z e d Water 35.30 Procedure: C o m b i n e Phase B i n g r e d i e n t s a n d s t i r . Add Phase B t o Phase A and s t i r . Notes : Transparent, o i l - f r e e W/O T r a n s p a r e n c y can be a d j u s t e d by v a r y i n g r a t i o o f w a t e r / p r o p y l glycol V i s c o s i t y 1 2 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, Sp 4, 1 0 r p m ) a t 24C Formula O I - O l / L SOURCE: Rona/Em I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r n m u l a t i o n s

Sun Care Products

305

Self Tanninq Milk rO/Wl Raw Materials: wt% A Emulsifier E 2155 (Stearyl Alcohol (and) Steareth-7 (and) Steareth-10) 2.00 Teginacid H (Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteth-20) 2.00 Luvitol EHO (Cetearyl Octanoate) 10.00 Imwitor 900 (Glyceryl Stearate) 3.00 5.00 Cetiol (Oleyl Oleate) 1.00 Lunacera M (Microwax) Miglyol 812 neutral oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.00 B Propanediol-1,2 (Art. No. 107478) (Propylene Glycol) 4.00 Preservatives q.s. Water, demineralized ad 100.00 C Dihydroxyacetone (Art. No. 110150) 5.00 Water, demineralized 10.00 Procedure: Heat phase A to 75C, phase B to 80C. Add phase B slowly to phase A while stirring. Homogenize. Cool down while stirring and add phase C at 40C. Note : pH24C=3.6 Viscosity 15,000 mPas (Brookfield RVT, Sp. C, 10 rpm) at 24C Samples contain as preservatives: 0 . 0 5 % Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 107427) 0.15% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 106757) SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Formulation 03-07/K Leave-On Hair Treatment S w a y with Sunscreen A liaht hair and scalD treatment containina LiDamide MEAA and Lipoquat R for conditioning and shine, wifh Unitrienol T-27 for oil control. The Unipabol U-17 helps protect the hair from UV induced color damage. Sequence: Raw Material/INCI Name: Wt% 1 Liponic EG-l/Glycereth-26 3.00 1 Lipamide MEAA/Acetamide MEA 3.50 1 Lipoquat R/Ricinoleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate 0.50 2 Deionized Water 3.00 2 Unipabol U-17/PEG-25 PABA 7.50 3 SD Alcohol 40-B (190 proof) 73.50 4 Unitrienol T-27/Farnesyl Acetate (and) 2.00 Farnesol (and) Panthenyl Triacetate 4 Lipovol J/Jojoba (Buxus Chinensis) Oil 1.00 4 Liponate NPGC-2/Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate 6.00 Procedure: 1. Premix Sequence #1 ingredients at ambient temperature on overhead mixer at low/medium speed. 2. Premix Sequence #2 and add to Sequence #1 at low/medium speed. 3. Add combined Sequence #1 and Sequence #2 to Sequence # 3 on overhead mixer at medium/low speed. 4. Add premixed Sequence #4 to batch at medium speed until solution is clear and homogeneous. SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals Inc.: Formulation No. 1005

306

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunblock Lotion In this formula, Veegum is used with Rhodigel Xanthan Gum and a Xanthan Gum-based dispersible emulsifier to stabilize the emulsion and adjust emulsion viscosity. This cold process lotion has a light feel with quick, greaseless rub in. The sunscreen should offer considerable protection against sunlightinduced skin problems. The Ritachol and Finsolv are included for emollience and rapid skin absorption on rub-in. Inqredients: Wt%* A: Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 0.60 Rhodigel, Xanthan Gum 0.15 Deionized Water 65.45 Nonfat Dry Milk (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides Phosphate 0.80 Propylene Glycol 3.00 B: C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (Finsolv TN) 8.00 Benzophenone-3 (Escalol 5 6 7 ) 5.00 Octyl Methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX) 7.50 Mineral Oil (and) Lanolin Alcohol (Ritachol) 4.00 Polysorbate 80 0.50 C: Zinc Oxide 5.00 D: Preservative q.s. Procedure: Add the Veegum/Rhodigel dry blend to the water slowly, agitating at maximum available shear until smooth. Add the remaining Part A ingredients in the order shown, mixing after each until smooth and uniform. Mix the Part B ingredients until the Benzophenone-3 dissolves. Add Part B to Part A and mix until smooth and uniform. *As received basis Formulation No. 367 Ti02 Lotion Insredients: Wt%” A: Propylene Glycol Isoceteth-3 Acetate (Hetester PHA) 10.00 Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate (Elefac 1 - 2 5 0 ) 10.00 Titanium Dioxide- (and) Bismuth Oxychloride (Titanium Dioxide 110) 10.00 B: Deionized Water 68.90 Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 0.70 Rhodigel, Xanthan Gum 0.30 C: Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone 0.10 Procedure: Weigh the water into a suitable vessel and mix with a propeller mixer at 1800 rpm. Dry blend the Veegum and Rhodigel and add them to the water. Mix for 6 0 minutes. In a separate vessel, mix the Part A ingredients until the Titanium Dioxide is uniformly dispersed. Add Part A to Part B and mix until uniform. Add Part C, mix until uniform and package. *As received basis Formulation from Bernel Chemical Co., Inc. SOURCE: R.T. Vanderbilt Co., Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Sun Care Products

307

SPF 1 2 Sunscreen Liposome L o t i o n

T h i s i s an e l e g a n t f e e l i n g s u n s c r e e n i n a c o l d - p r o c e s s l o t i o n c o n t a i n i n g liposomes f o r longer l a s t i n g p r o t e c t i o n . Wt%* I n x g d i ent : A : D e i o n i z e d Water 58.53 1 .40 Veegum Magnesium Aluminum S i i c a t e 0.18 R h o d i g e l Xanthan Gum C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC 7MF) 0.56 B : G l y c e r i n , 99% 3.00 Butylene Glycol (and) Glycer n (and) Chlorophenesin (and) Methylparaben ( K i l l i t o l ) 3.00 Water ( a n d ) O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e ( a n d ) Phenyl T r i m e t h i cone ( a n d ) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n a l (and) Phosphoglycerides (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben ( a n d ) B u t y l p a r a b e n ( S a n s u f t OMC) 23.33 Water ( a n d ) O c t y l Methoxycinnamate ( a n d ) Soy Phosp h o g l y c e r i d e s ( a n d ) Phenoxyethanol ( a n d ) T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (Sunscreen L i posomes) 10.00 Procedure: Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m i x w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r a t 1800 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum, R h o d i g e l and CMC and add them t o t h e w a t e r . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 60 m i n u t e s a t 1 8 0 0 rpm. Reduce t h e m i x e r speed t o p r o d u c e a s l i g h t v o r t e x and add t h e P a r t 6 i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g each f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Package. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE:

R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., Laboratories

I n c : Formulation from C o l l a b o r a t i v e

P&E&A _Free M_! l.k--&

Honey S.ynscreen

s_t_l c_k

The f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a t i o n p r o d u c e s a w a t e r p r o o f s u n s c r e e n s t i c k w h i c h has a SPF f a c t o r o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 1 0 - 2 0 . Ingredients wts/oy Monalac ML ( R e f i n e d M i l k L i p i d ) 70 0 B l e a c h e d Beeswax 20.0 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 7 0 Benzophenone-3 3 0 Fragrance qs Procedure: B l e n d t h e Monalac ML and Beeswax t o g e t h e r a t 65-75C. A v o i d a i r e n t r a i n m e n t . When u n i f o r m , add o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e and c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Reduce h e a t , add f r a g r a n c e and p o u r a t 50-65C i n t o p a c k a g e . A r i c h , smooth, p r o t e c t i v e and n o n - g r e a s y s k i n c o v e r i n g w i l l b e p r o v i d e d .

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a t i o n F-735

308

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations Sun Care Emulsion SPF (Calculated) aDprox. 15

Component: I Eumulgin VL 75/Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin Myritol 331/Cocoglycerides Baysilon M 350/Dimethicone Cetiol 868/0ctyl Stearate Octyl Methoxycinnamate Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate Benzophenone-3 Copherol 1250/Tocopherol Carbopol ETD 2001/Carbomer I1

Glycerine 86% Water NaOH 10%/Sodium Hydroxide Preservative/perfume

Wt% 4.5 6.0 0.5 2.5 4.0 4.0 1.0 0.5 0.3

3.0 71.9 1.8 q.s.

pH Value: 6.9 Viscosity Brookfield mPas: 14,000 Preparation in the Laboratory: Mix phase I at room temperature. Add phase I1 while stirring. After that, homogenize. Finally add the neutralisation agent as well as the preservative. Formulation No. 97/119/3 Sunscreen Products Inqredients: 94/056/167 94/056/1= Emulgade SE/Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate 8.0 8.0 Lanette O/Cetearyl Alcohol 1.5 1.5 Cetiol LC/Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Cetiol SN/Cetearyl Isononanoate Cetiol SB 45/Butyrospermum Parkii 2.0 2.0 Copherol 1250/Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0 1.0 8.5 8.5 Neo-Heliopan E 1000 2.5 2.5 Neo-Heliopan BB 3.0 3.0 Glycerol (86%) 0.6 0.6 Tylose YP 100,000 Hydagen CMF/Chitosan 10.0 --Water 56.9 66.9

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations

Sun Care Products

Sun

309

Care Lotion with Hydaqen CMF

Component: Wt$ Emulgade SE 8.0 Lanette O/Cetearyl Alcohol 1.5 Cetiol LC/Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 3.0 Cetiol SN/Cetearyl Isononanoate 3.0 Cetiol SB 45/Shea Butter 2.0 Copherol 1250/Tocopherol 1.0 Neo Heliopan E 1000/Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate 8.0 Neo Heliopan BB/Benzophenone-3 2.5 I1 Glycerin 86% 3.0 Hydagen CMF/Chitosan Glycolate 10.0 Water, de-ionized 28.0 I11 Tylose H 100,000 YP (Hoechst) Z%ig/Hydroxyethylcellulose 30.0 q.s. IV Preservative Viscosity (mPas), Brook. RVF, 23C, spindle 5, 10 rpm: 23,600 Preparations in the Laboratory: Heat phase I to 80-85C. Heat phase I1 to 80-85C and add to the oil phase while stirring. Emulsify for 5 minutes at this temperature. Avoid incorporation of air. Add the 2 % Tylose swelling. Cool down to 40C and add finally phase IV. Stir while cooling to 30C. Recipe Number: DE/94/056/167 Phase: I

Sun

Protection Emulsion for SDray-Application LSF/SPF (ColiDa) 9

Comuonent: WtO I Emulgade SE/Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate 4.7 Eumulgin BZ/Ceteareth-20 1.3 Cetiol 868/0ctyl Stearate 6.0 Cetiol SN/Cetearyl Isononanoate 6.0 Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate 4.0 Benzophenone-3 1.0 Copherol F 1300/Tocopherol 1.0 I1 Water 71.0 Glycerin 86% 5.0 I11 Preservative q.s. Viscosity mPas:
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations

370

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sun Protection Cream (W/O) SPF 22 (Sun Protection Factor, ColiDa Method with 5 Volunteers1 Raw Materials: A: Eusolex OCR (Art. N o . 1.05377) (Octocrylene) Eusolex 9020 (Art. No. 1.05844) (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) Elfacos E 200 (Methoxy PEG-22/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer) Elfacos ST 9 (PEG-45/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer) Elfacos C 2 6 (Hydroxyoctacosanyl Hydroxystearate) Paraffin Oil Liquid (Art. No. 1.07162) (Mineral Oil) Isopropyl Stearate DL-c - Tocopherol acetate (Art. No. 5.00952) (Tocopheryl Acetate)

Wt%

3.00 1.50 1.00 3.00 5.00 8.00

9.00 0.50

8 : Eusoflex 232 (Art. No. 1.05372) (Phenylbezimidazole

Sulfonic Acid) 2.00 Tris(hydroxymethy1)-aminomethane (Art. No. 1.08386) (Tromethamine) 0.89 Tritiplex I11 (Art. No. 1.08421) (Disodium EDTA) 0.10 Allantoin (Art. No. 1.01015) 0.10 Glycerine (Art. No. 1.04093) 3.00 q.s Preservatives Water, demineralized ad 100.00 Procedure: To neutralize Eusolex 232 dissolve Tris(hydroxymethy1)-aminomethane in the water of phase B and add Eusolex 232 while stirring. When uniform add the remaining ingredients of phase B and heat to 80C. Heat phase A to 75C. Add phase B slowly to phase A while stirring. Homogenize and cool down while stirring. Note : Viscosity 41,000 mPas (Brookfield RVT, Sp. C, 5 rpm) at 24C Samples contain as preservatives: 0.050% Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 107427) 0.150% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 106757) SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Formulation 04-Q2/K

Sun Care Products

31 1

Sun Protection Emulsion for Spray Application

SPF (COLIPA) 9 Component: I. Emulgade SE/Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate Eumulgin B2/Ceteareth-20 Cetiol 868/0ctyl Stearate Cetiol SN/Cetearyl Isononanoate Neo-Heliopan E 1000/Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate Neo-Heliopan BB/Benzophenone-3 Copherol F 1300/Tocopherol

( and 1

II.Water, demineralized Glycerol 86%

Wt% 4.7 1.3 6.0 6.0 4.0 1.0 1.0 71.0 5.0

1II.Preservative q. s Viscosity, mPas: < l o 0 Brookfield, 23C Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Melt phase I (80-85C) and stir until homogeneous. 2. Heat phase I1 at 80-85C and stir slowly into phase I. Mix temperature at 80-85C. 3. Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring in such a way that it remains in continual motion. Avoid incorporation of air. Add phase I11 at 35C. Add preservative if necessary. Stop stirring at 30C. Formulation No.: 93/199/65 After Sun with Panthenol for Spray Amlication

Wt% Component: I. Emulgade SE/Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) 4.5 Cetyl Palmitate 1.0 Eumulgin B 2/Ceteareth-20 5.0 Cetiol LC/Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 5.0 Cetiol OE/Dicaprylyl Ether 11. Water, demin.

83.5

1.0 III.Pantheno1 Preservative q.s Viscosity, 23C, mPas, Brookfield: t l O O Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Heat phase I to 85C and stir until homogeneous. 2. Heat phase I1 to 85C and stir slowly into phase I. 3. Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring in such a way that it remains in continual motion. Avoid incorporation of air. Add phase I11 at 35C. Add preservative if necessary. Stop stirring at 30C. Formulation No.: 94/192/8 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations

312

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sun Protection Gel (aqueous) SPF 10 (Sun Protection Factor, FDA-Method with 5 Volunteers) Raw Materials: wt% A Eusolex 232 (Art. No. 105372) (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid) 4.00 Tris-(hydroxymethy1)-aminomethane (Art. No. 108386) (Tromethamine) 1.77 0.20 Allantoin (Art. No. 101015) Sorbitol F liquid (Art. No. 102993) 5.00 Preservatives q.s. Water, demineralized ad 100.00 B Perfume 72979 Arlatone 980 (PEG-35-Hydrogenated Castor Oil)

0.30 1.00

C Carbomer 940 Water, demineralized

1.50 36.10

D Tris(hydroxymethy1)-aminomethane (Art. No. 108386) Tromethamine Water, demineralized

2.40 10.00

Procedure: To neutralize Eusolex 232 dissolve Tris(hydroxymethy1)aminomethane in the water of phase A and add Eusolex 232 while stirring. When uniform add the remaining ingredients of Phase A. Heat to 70C until homogeneous and cool while stirring. Blend ingredients of phase B. Disperse Carbomer 940 in the water of phase C and homogenize. Dissolve the Tris(hydroxymethy1)aminomethane in the water of phase D. Combine phases C and D and homogenize. Incorporate phases A and B. Homogenize again. Note : Transparent gel Viscosity 35,000 mPas (Brookfield RVT, Sp. C, 5 rpm) at 25C pH22C=6.7 Samples contain as preservatives: 0.20% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck-Art.-No. 6757) SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Formulation 32-02/E

Sun Care Products

313

Sun Protection Lotion (W/O) SPF 20 [Sun Protection Factor, ColiDa Method with 5 Volunteers) Raw Materials: A Eusolex T 2000 (Art.-No. 105373) (Micron. Titandioxid) Eusolex 6300 (Art.-No. 1.05385) (4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor) Abil WE 09 (Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Hexyl Laurate) Jojoba Oil (Jojoba (Buxus Chinensis) Oil) Cetiol V (Decyl Oleate) Prisorine 2021 (Isopropyl Isostearate) Castor Oil (Ricinus Communis) Lunacera M (Microwax) Miglyol 812 Neutral Oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) DL-d.-Tocopherolacetate(Art.-No. 5.00952) (Tocopheryl Acetate) Vitamin-A-palmitate (Retinyl Palmitate)

Wt$ 3.00

2.00 5.00 6.00 6.00 4.50 1.00 1.80 4.50 1.00 0.50

B Eusolex 232 (Art.-No. 105372) (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid) 2.00 Tris(hydroxymethy1)-aminomethane (Art.-No. 1.08386) 0.90 (Tromethamine) 2.00 Glycerol (about 87%) (Art. No. 1.04091) 0.40 Sodium Chloride (Art. No. 1.06400) 0.20 Allantoin (Art.-No. 1.01015) q.s. Preservatives ad 100.00 Water, demineralized Procedure: To neutralize Eusolex 232 dissolve Tris(hydroxymethy1)-aminomethane in the water of phase B and add Eusolex 232 while stirring. When uniform add the remaining ingredients of phase B and heat to 80C. Heat phase A to 75C. Add phase B slowly to phase A while stirring. Homogenize and cool down while stirring. Notes : Viscosity 24,600 mPas (Brookfield RVT, S p . C) at 24C Samples contain as preservatives: 0.05% Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Art. No. 1.07427) 0.15% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Art. No. 1.06757) SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Formulation 39-44/E

374

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sun Protection Lotion (O/W) SPF 23 ( S u n Protection Factor, Colipa Method with 5 Volunteers)

Raw Materials: WtSi A Eusolex T-2000 (Art. No. 1.05373) (Micron. Titanium Dioxide) 10.00 Emulsifier E-2155 (Stearyl Alcohol (and) . . Steareth-7 (and) Steareth-10) 3.00 Teginacid H (Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteth-20) 3.00 Luvitol EHO (Cetearyl Octanoate) 10.50 Imwitor 900 (Glyceryl Stearate) 3.00 Cetiol (Oleyl Oleate) 4.00 Lunacera M (Microwax) 1.00 Miglyol 812 neutral oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 4.00 B Propanediol-1,2 (Art.-No. 1.07478) (Propylene Glycol) 4.00 Allantoin (Art.-No. 1.01015) 0.20 q.s. Preservatives Water, demineralized 100.00 Procedure: Heat phase A to 75C and phase B to 80C. Add phase B slowly to phase A while stirring, homogenize and cool down while stirring. Note: Viscosity 24,600 mPas (Brookfield RVT Sp. C, 10 rpm) at 24C Samples contain as preservatives 0.05% Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Art. No. 1.07427) 0.15% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Art. No. 1.06757) Formulation 03-36/K Self Tannins Milk CW/Ol Raw Materials: A Dow Corning 3225 C B Dihydroxyacetone (Art.-No. 10150) Propanediol-1,2 (Art.-No. 7478) Preservatives Water, demineralized

Wt%

23.600 5.000 35.900 q.s.

ad 100.000

Procedure: Dissolve phase B and add it to phase A. Note: Transparent, oil-free W/O Adjusting of transparency trough variation of ratio water/ propanediol-1,2. Viscosity 12,000 mPas (Brookfield RVT, Sp.4, 10 rpm) at 24C Samples contain as preservatives: 0.05% Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck-Art.-No. 7427) 0.15% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck-Art.-No. 6757) Formulation Ol-Ol/L

SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Suggested Formulations

Sun Care Products

W t-%n

.__ 1naredi-aLs.; A O c t y l methoxycinnamate Benzophenone-3 Arlamol E Stearyl alcohol O i m e t h i c o n e , 350 c p s . B r i j 721 B r i j 72

5.0 0.5 5.0 0.5 0.5 2.0 2.0 74.1 0.2

B Water Carbomer 940

C Water Sodi um h y d r o x i d e ,

10.0 0.2

10% aqueous

U V - 7 .(S-PF

15*] W_t %

I n g r e d Lent _ s l

7.0 3.0 5.0 0.5 0.5 2.0 2.0

O c t y l m e t h o x y c i nnamate Benzophenone-3 Arlamol E Stearyl alcohol O i m e t h i c o n e , 350 c p s . B r i ] 721 B r i ] 72

69.6 0.2

B Water Carbomer 940

C Water Sod1 um h y d r o x i d e ,

315

10% aqueous

10.0 0.2

Preparation: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r . Heat ( A ) t o 65C . Heat (€3) t o 60C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C and add make-up w a t e r , i f n e c e s s a r y . Pour above s e t p o i n t . * E s t i m a t e d Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r SOURCE:

I C I Surfactants:

F o r m u l a s UV-6 & UV-7

376

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Emulsion, T m e O/W Raw Materials: Wt% a) Arlamol HD 15.00 Arlamol S 7 4.00 Parsol MCX 6.00 Parsol 1789 1.50 Stearyl alcohol 2.00 Antaron V-220 3.00 Cutavit Richter 1.00 Phenonip 0.30 b) Water, distilled 39.80 Phenonip 0.30 Keltrol 0.10 G-2330 4.00 Tioveil AQ 12.50 Arlatone 2121 5.50 Citric acid 5.50 c) Protectan 5.00 Manufacture: a) Melt and bring to about 85C. b) Heat to about 85C and stir into a). Continue stirring until the emulsion has cooled to about 30C. c) Stir in. Perfume, homogenize. Notice: b) adjust pH to 6.5-7.0 using citric acid! SOURCE: Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH: Formulas Clear Sunscreen Gel This formula is a clear, oil-free gel. Excellent non-greasy afterfeel. Wt% Inqredients: Phase A: SD Alcohol 40-2 44.07 Hydroxypropyl Cellulose 1.67 Phase B: Velsan D8P-3 9.64 Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.50 Parsol 1789" 1.00 Benzophenone-3 2.00 SD Alcohol 40-2 24.30 Fragrance 0.60 Phase C: Deionized Water 9.76 Procedure: Disperse the hydroxypropyl cellulose in Phase A's portion of the SD Alcohol. Mix until a clear gel develops. In Phase B add ingredients in order while mixing. Continue mixing until all of the benzophenone-3 and Parsol 1789 is dissolved. Add Phase B to Phase A and continue to mix until a smooth gel develops. Slowly add water with mixing until gel is clear and homogeneous. Properties: pH: 6.4 Viscosity: 12,800 cps Appearance: Clear, Yellow Gel *Parsol 1789 is not yet FDA approved. SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Formulation CSS-04

Sun Care Products

317

S u n s c r e e n Emu1 s i o n w i t h T i t a n i urn D i o x i d e T h i s base i s an i d e a l s t a r t i n g p o i n t f o r s u n s c r e e n l o t i o n s any t y p e o f pigmented product It i s a very stable formulation for

L!g.r.ed.j.e_nt

A:

.:D e i o n i z e d Water Veegum, Magnesium A l u m i n u m S i l i c a t e C e l l u l o s e Gum Allantoin Methylparaben T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and) Alumina (and) G l y c e r i n (and) S i l i c a ( U V - T i t a n M212)

B: L e c i t h i n Lanolin Alcohol Glyceryl Stearate Isopropyl Palmitate Stearic Acid Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides I s o e i c o s a n e ( P e r m e t h y l 102A) P o l y i s o b u t e n e ( P e r m e t h y l 104A) Isostearic Acid Propylparaben

Wt.V

61 . 9 8 0.50 0.15 0.05 0.20 8.00

1 .oo 1.50 0.80 4.00 0.50 4.00 7.50 2.50 2.40 0.10

Urea

0.20

0 : T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99%

1 .62 3.00

C:

Imidazolidinyl

Polyglycerylmethacrylate

Procedure: Weigh t h e P a r t A w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l a n d m i x w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r o p e r a t i n g a t 5 0 0 0 rpm. D r y b l e n d t h e Veegum a n d c e l l u l o s e gum, a d d t h e m i x t u r e t o t h e w a t e r a n d c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 3 0 m i n u t e s a t 5 0 0 0 rpm, w h i l e h e a t i n g t h e b a t c h t o 70-72C. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g e a c h u n t i l u n i f o r m l y dispersed. M i x t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n another vessel a n d h e a t t o 7 5 C . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A a n d m i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5 0 0 0 r p m . Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a n d a d j u s t t h e speed t o c r e a t e a s m a l l v o r t e x . B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g . A t 60C, a d d P a r t C . A t 40C, a d d t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Package a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e .

SOURCE:

R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co., Inc.

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n from P r e s p e r s e ,

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

378

S u n s c r e e n F o r m u l___ ation _. Ingr

edients; Veegum P l u s O e i o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l ami n e P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF Stearic Acid PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E t h e r P r o p i o n a t e Cetyl Alcohol L a n o l i n A1 coho1 Padimate 0 Phenyl benzimidazole Sul f o n i c A c i d Preservative B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y @ 1 2 rpm, A f t e r A g i n g 1 D a y : 19500 A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week: 1 9 5 0 0 A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks: 21500

Y i e l d Value,

Dynes/Sq.

Cm.:

cps:

1020

F o r m u l a pH: A f t e r A g i n g 1 Day: 6 . 6 A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week: 6 . 5 A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks: 6 . 5 S t a b i l i t y Observations: A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week @ Room T e m p . : O K A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ Room T e m p . : O K A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week @ 6C: O K A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ 6C: O K A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week @ 38C: O K A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ 38C: OK A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week I3 50C: O K A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ 50C: OK SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

wt.% 2.00 61.50 0.80 5.00 3.20 2.40 11.20 1 .60 4.00 5.00 2.30 1 .oo

Sun Care Products

319

Sunscreen Formulation Inqredients: MAS Type 1A

Deionized Water Triethanolamine Propylene Glycol Emulsifying Agent NF Stearic Acid PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate Cetyl Alcohol Lanolin Alcohol Padimate 0 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid Preservative Brookfield Viscosity @ 12 rpm, cps: After Aging 1 Day: 11500 After Aging 1 Weeks: 10500 After Aging 4 Weeks: 13500 Yield Value, Dynes/Sq. Cm.: 600 Formula pH: After Aging 1 Day: 6.6 After Aging 1 Week: 6.6 After Aging 4 Weeks: 6.6 Stability Observations: After Aging 1 Week @ Room Temp.: OK After Aging 4 Weeks @ Room Temp.: OK After Aging 1 Week @ 6C: OK After Aging 4 Weeks @ 6C: OX After Aging 1 Week @ 38C: OK After Aging 4 Weeks @ 38C: Trace Bleed After Aging 1 Week @ 50C: 5 m Bleed After Aging 4 Weeks @ 50C: Total Separation

SOURCE: R.T. Vanderbilt Co., Inc.: Formulation

Wt$

2.00 61.50 0.80 5.00 3.20 2.40

11.20 1.60 4.00 5.00 2.30 1.00

320

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen G e l

F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) p r o d u c e s a n o n - g r a n u l a r , l o w p e n e t r a t i o n and h i g h s t a b i l i t y g e l . T h i s f o r m u l a u t i l i z e s an a r r a y o f o i l s and a c t i v e s p r o d u c i n g a p r o d u c t w i t h a n o n - g r e a s y s k i n f e e l , p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n q u i c k l y and has an SPF o f 4 t o 6 . __. Raw M

aterials: O i l Phase: Sweet Almond O i 1 Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) Isopropyl Palmitate Jojoba O i l Sesame O i l Avocado O i l Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol Escalol 507 Ozokerite 160/164 Carnauba # I Y e l l o w V i t a m i n A Palini t a t e Vitamin E Concentrate

Wt% 29.0 15.3 15.0 13.0 9.0 9.0 4.0 4.0

1 .o

0.5 0.1 0.1

Procedure: Weigh and add each component o f t h e o i l phase t o a v e s s e l . H e a t , n o t e x c e e d i n g 75C, and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. Reduce t e m p e r a t u r e t o 60C and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r . A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : By r e p l a c i n g t h e j o j o b a , sesame and avocado o i l s w i t h l i g h t m i n e r a l o i l ( 2 8 . 8 % ) and i n c r e a s i n g t h e Cera B e l l i n a c o n c e n t r a t i o n ( 1 7 . 5 % ) , one can p r o d u c e t h e same p r o d u c t as d e s c r i b e d above. The f o r m u l a t o r has t h e a b i l i t y t o s u b s t i t u t e t h e i r p r e f e r r e d o i l s w i t h o n l y s l i g h t c o n c e n t r a t i o n changes o f Cera B e l l i n a t o p r o d u c e p r o d u c t s o f t h e same c o n s i s t e n c y , Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) can be added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance t h e SPF.

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Sun Care Products

~ . ~ C ~ - - ~ a ~ ~ r ~ ~ ~ . ~ . a Phase A : Phenyl benzimi d a z o l e S u l f o n i c A c i d (% as a c i d ) / E u s o l e x 232 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) A 1 l a n t o i n/Rona Glycerine M e t h y l Paraben D e i o n i z e d Water Phase 8: I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l D e i o n i z e d Water Phase C : Carbomer/Carbopol Dei o n i z e d Water

~

115

~

321

w t Yo 4.00 2.18 0.10 5.00 0.20 14.77 0.15 1.oo

940

1.50 58.10

Phase 0 : T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Dei o n i z e d Water

3.00 10.00

Procedure: T o n e u t r a l i z e E u s o l e x 232 d i s s o l v e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e i n t h e w a t e r o f p h a s e A a n d a d d E u s o l e x 232 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When u n i f o r m , add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase A . H e a t t o 7 0 C u n t i l homogeneous t h e n c o o l t o 45C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . D i s s o l v e G e r m a l l 1 1 5 i n t h e w a t e r o f p h a s e B , a d d t o b a t c h . Combine p h a s e C a n d h o m o g e n i z e . Combine p h a s e D . Add p h a s e D t o p h a s e C w i t h s i d e sweep a g i t a t i o n u n t i l homogeneous. Add p h a s e A a n d homogeni ze. Notes : S t a b i l i t y RT-No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 2 y e a r s . SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a EUS1-5-1

322

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Gel SPF lo (Aqueous-Alcohol i c )

y a

I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : P h e n y l b e n z i m i d a z o l e S u l f o n i c A c i d ( % as a c i d ) / E u s o l e x 232 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (99%) A1 1a n t o i n/Rona G1 y c e r i ne M e t h y l Paraben Dei o n i zed Water

4.00 2.18 0.10 5.00 0.20 1 .oo

Phase 8 : I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germall Deionized water

0.15 1 .oo

Phase C : Carbomer/Carbopol Dei o n i zed Water

115

940

Phase D : T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) D e i o n i z e d Water Phase E : E t h a n o l (90%)

1 .50 50.87

3.00 5.00 20.00

Procedure: To n e u t r a l i z e E u s o l e x 232 d i s s o l v e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e i n t h e w a t e r o f phase A and add E u s o l e x 232 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When u n i f o r m add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase A . Heat t o 70C u n t i l homogeneous, t h e n c o o l t o 45C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . D i s s o l v e G e r m a l l 1 1 5 i n t h e w a t e r o f phase B, add t o b a t c h . Combine Phase C and homogenize. Combine phase D . Add phase E s t e p by s t e p w h i l e s t i r r i n g , p r o c e e d i n g w i t h each a d d i t i o n a f t e r i t i s c l e a r and u n i f o r m . Add phase A and homogenize.

SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Formula EUS1-5-2

Sun Care Products

323

Sunscreec- L o t i o n Formul a t 1 n g D e s i g n and Advantages. T h i s f o r m u l a d e m o n s t r a t e s t h e r h e o l o g i c a l and s t a b i l i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a . I n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s f o r m u l a i s t h e s u n s c r e e n E s c a l o l ( O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA) g i v i n g t h i s f o r m u l a a n a p p r o x i m a t e SPF v a l u e o f 4 t o 6 . The p r o d u c t h a s h i g h g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t s k i n f e e l The r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f C e r a B e l l i n a a l l o w f o r t h i s p r o d u c t t o be packaged i n convenient tubes or s q u e e z e b o t t l e s Raw M a t e r i a! s : O i l Phase: E s c a l o l 507 A m e r c h o l L 101 C e r a B e l l i n a ( P g - 3 Beeswax) G1 y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e L i g h t M i n e r a l 01 1 Isostearic Acid Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 1 1 ed ) 1,3-Eutylene Glycol G1 y c e r i n e Triethanolamine Germaben I 1 Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e

Wt%

5.63 4.70 3.80 2.77 2.83 1 .oo 71 . 6 6 2.90 2.83 0.80 0.80 0.28

Procedure: H e a t t h e w a t e r p h a s e t o 75C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n e n s u r i n g t h a t t h e e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . M e l t and m i x t h e o i l phase a t 75C. S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase u n d e r v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n A l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C a n d p o u r i n t o j a r s . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a a n d i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e sunscreen t o s u i t your p r e f e r e n c e , w i t h o u t c h a n g i n g t h e c o n s s t e n c y The emu1 s i o n v i s c o s i t y c a n e a s i l y b e a l t e r e d b y c h a n g i n g t h e o i l a n d / o r wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n O r a n g e Wax ( K o s t e r K e u n e n ) c a n b e a d d e d t o n a t u r a l l y e n h a n c e t h e SPF

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

324

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen L o t i o n (SPF 1 5 * ) I n q r e d i ents:, A Octyl dimethyl Benzophenone-3 P e t r o 1 a t um Dirnethicone B r i j 721 B r i j 72

W

PABA

46.6 0.2

B Water Carbomer 934 C Water Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n ,

O

7.0 3.0 25.0 3.0 1.2 3.8

10% a q u e o u s

10.0 0.2

P r e p a r a t i on : D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r . H e a t ( A ) t o 65C. H e a t ( B ) t o 60C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) a n d s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . C o o l t o 35C a n d a d d make-up w a t e r . F o r m u l a UV-5

Ingr-edi e n t s : A O c t y l methoxyci nnimate O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Benzophenone-3 Octyl palmi t a t e Arlamol E B r i ] 72 A r l a c e l 83 S o r b i t a n S e s q u i o l e a t e

. wto/, -.

7.5 8.0 5.0 5.0 3.0 2.0 1.o

B Water C a r b o m e r 1342

58.1 0.2

C Water Triethanolamine

10.0 0.2

Preparation: D i s p e r s e C a r b o m e r i n w a t e r . H e a t ( A ) t o 65C. H e a t ( B ) t o 60C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) a n d s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . C o o l t o 50C a n d a d d make-up w a t e r . P o u r a b o v e s e t point * E s t i m a t e d Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r F o r m u l a UV-8

.

SOURCE:

ICI A m e r i c a s : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Sun Care Products

Sunscreen Moi s t u r i zi..ng Forrnu a t i n g D e s i g n Th s f o r m u l a de p r o p e r t i e s of C e r a t h e s u n s c r e e n Esca an a p p r o x i m a t e SPF excellent skin fee

325

Cream

and Advantages: o n s t r a t e s t h e r h e o l o g i c a l and s t a b i l i z i n g Be1 1 i n a . I n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s f o r m u l a i s 01 ( O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA) g i v i n g t h i s f o r m u l a v a l u e o f 4 t o 6 . The cream has h i g h g l o s s and

Raw M a t g r i a1 s : O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax ) M i nosi 1 E s c a l o l 507 Amerchol L 1 0 1 Castor O i l Glycerol Monostearate Isopropyl Palmitate O z o k e r i t e 160/164 S i l i c o n e F l u i d 245 P r o p y l Paraben Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) Butylene Glycol Sodi um B o r a t e M e t h y l Paraben

Wt%

6.0 6.0 5.1 5.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 1.0 1.o 0.2 65.3 2.9 0.2 0.3

Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r phase t o 75C under a g i t a t i o n e n s u r i n g t h a t t h e e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . H e a t and m i x t h e o i l phase u n t i l homogeneous and a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C i s m a i n t a i n e d . S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase under v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C and p o u r i n t o j a r s . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e s u n s c r e e n to s u i t y o u r p r e f e r e n c e , w i t h o u t c h a n g i n g t h e c o n s i s t e n c y . The e m u l s i o n v i s c o s i t y can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d by c h a n g i n g t h e o i l a n d / o r wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) can b e added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance t h e SPF.

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

326

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formuiafions

Sunscre-gn

(OlW)

L o t 2 o n SPF 1-6

I N C I N a m e j T r a d e Name: Phase A : O c t o c r y l e n e / E u s o l e x OCR I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e / L e x o l IPM-NF C12-15 A l c o h o l s B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN C e t y l A l c o h o l / C r o d a c o l C-70 Steareth-2/Bri] 72 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 / B r i ] 721 D i m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d 100cST

Wt%

7.00 4.00 4.00 1 .BG 2.00 2.50

0 . 50

Phase B : D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) C a r b o m e r ( 2 % a q . s o l u t i o n ) / C a r b o p o l ETD 2 0 2 0 P h e n y l b e n z i m i d a z o l e S u l f o n i c A c i d (YO a s a c i d ) / E u s o l e x 232 Phase C : Phenoxyethanol (and) Isopropylparaben (and) p a r a b e n ( a n d ) B u t y l p a r a b e n i L i q u a P a r PE

53.20 2.00 20.00 2.00

Isobutyl1.GO

Procedure: P r e p a r e Phase B b y c o m b i n i n g w a t e r , t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , and E u s o l e x 2 3 2 . H e a t t h e m i x t u r e to 50C w h i l e s t i r r i n g u n t i l E u s o l e x 2 3 2 i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add 2% c a r b o m e r s o l u t i o n . Srir a n d h e a t t o 6 5 C . I f c r y s t a l s a r e o b s e r v e d , a d d a f e w d r o p s o f t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g and h e a t i n g u n t i l no c r y s t a l s r e m a i n . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . S t i r and h e a t t o 70C. Add P h a s e B t o P h a s e A w h i l e g e n t l y s t i r r i n g . H o m o g e n i z e g e n t l y w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n . When m i x t u r e t e m p e r a t u r e c o o l s t o 5OC add Phase C a n d c o n t i n u e t o homogenize u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogeneous. S t i r g e n t l y a l l o w i n g m i x t u r e t o r e a c h room t e m p e r a t u r e . Note: V i s c o s i t y : 2 4 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d R V # 5 , 1 0 rpm CJ 25C) S t a b i l i t y F r e e z e i T h a w : No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 5 c y c l e s S t a b i l i t y 5OC: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 3 m o n t h s SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Formula EUS5-26

Sun Care Products

327

Sunscreen (O/Wy L o t i o n SPF 1 7 I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A: O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Neo H e l i o p a n AV I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e / L e x o l IPM-NF C12-15 A l c o h o l s B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN C e t y l A l c o h o l / C r o d a c o l C-70 S t e a r e t h - 2 / B r i j 72 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 / B r i j 721 Dimethicone/Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d 100 cST

Phase B : O e i o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Carbomer ( 2 % aq. s o l u t i o n ) / C a r b o p o l E T D 2020 P h e n y l b e n z i m i d a z o l e S u l f o n i c A c i d ( % as a c i d ) / E u s o l e x 232 Phase C : Phenoxyethanol ( a n d ) I s o p r o p y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) I s o b u t y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) B u t y l p a r a b e n / L i q u a P a r PE

Wt% 7.00 4.00 4.00 2.30 2.00 2.50 0.50 52.70 2.00 20.00 2.00

1.oo

Procedure: P r e p a r e Phase B by c o m b i n i n g w a t e r , t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , and E u s o l e x 232. Heat t h e m i x t u r e t o 50C w h i l e s t i r r i n g u n t i l E u s o l e x 232 i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add 2% carbomer s o l u t i o n . S t i r and h e a t t o 65C. I f c r y s t a l s a r e o b s e r v e d , add a few d r o p s o f t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t n u e m i x i n g and h e a t i n g u n t i l no c r y s t a l s r e m a i n . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . S t i r and h e a t t o 70C. Add Phase B t o Phase A w h i l e g e n t l y s t i r r i n g . Homogenize g e n t l y w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n . When m i x t u r e t e m p e r a t u r e c o o l s t o 50C add Phase C and c o n t i n u e t o homogenize u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogeneous. S t i r g e n t l y a l l o w i n g m i x t u r e t o reach room temperature. Note: V i s c o s i t y : 29,600 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d RV#5, 1 0 rpm I3 25C) S t a b i l i t y Freeze/Thaw: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 5 c y c l e s S t a b i l i t y 50C: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 3 months SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : F o r m u l a EUSS-10

328

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

S u n s c r e e n (W/O) Lotion S P F a B r o a d Spectrum UVAlUVB P r o t e c t i o n

I N C I Namel-Trade ____ Name: Phase A : O c t y l S t e a r a t e / C r o d a m o l 0s J o j o b a (buxus chinensis)oil/Floraesters J o j o b a O i l C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s / M y r i t o l 318 Petrolatum/Ultima White C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d D i m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 200 f l u i d 1 0 0 cST PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e / A r l a c e 1 P135 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e / A b i l WE-09 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e / C r o d a f o s CES C e r e s i n Wax/White C e r e s i n e 1502 Phase B : D e i o n i z e d Water Propylene Glycol A 1 1a n t o i n / R o n a P h e n y l b e n z i m d a z o l e S u l f o n i c A c i d (Yo a s a c i d ) / E u s o l e x T r i e t h a n o l ami n e ( 9 9 % )

7.00 4.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 2.00 2.50 2.50 1.oo 0.50

55.30 3.00 0.20 232 3.50 3.00

Phase C: T i t a n i um D i o x i d e / E u s o l e x T - 2 0 0 0 Phase D : ( I s o p r o p y l paraben, I s o b u t y l paraben, P h e n o x y e t h a n o l ) / L i q u a P a r PE

WL%

5.00 n-Butyl

paraben, 0.50

Procedure: Combine p h a s e A . H e a t t o 75C w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l h o m o g e n e o u s . Add p h a s e C t o A . C o o l m i x t u r e t o 60C. Combine a n d h e a t p h a s e B t o 60C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l s o l i d s a r e f u l l y d i s s o l v e d . S l o w l y add phase B t o A / C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add p h a s e D t o A/B/C. H o m o g e n i z e a t moderate speeds t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e c o o l s t o 3 5 C . S t i r s l o w l y a l l o w i n g m i x t u r e t o r e a c h room t e m p e r a t u r e . Note: V i s c o s i t y : 1 6 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d RV#5, 10 rpm @ 25C) S t a b i l i t y F r e e z e / T h a w : No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 5 c y c l e s S t a b i l i t y 50C: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 2 m o n t h s

SOURCE: Rona/EM i n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a EUS5-68

Sun Care Products

329

S u n s c r e e n _ - ~ W ~ ~ ~ I . ~ ~3- S . P ~ ~ Broad S p e c t r u m U V A / U V B . P r o t e c t i o n 1.K1- Nam1.T-r ade-.._N a_%.;. Phase A : O c t y l Stearate/Crodamol 0s O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Neo H e l i o p a n AV C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s / M y r i t o 1 318 P e t r o l a t um/Ul t i ma w h i t e C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d D i m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 2 0 0 F l u i d 100cST PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l P 1 3 5 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e / A b i l WE-09 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e / C r o d a f o s CES C e r e s i n Wax/White C e r e s i n e 1 5 0 2

Phase B : D e i o n i z e d Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l A 1 1 a n t o i n/Rona S o d i um C h l o r i d e

4.00 7.00 4 I00 3.00 3.00 2.00 2.50 2.50 1 .oo 0.50

61 . 3 0 3.00 0.20

0.50

Phase C : Titanium Dioxide/Eusolex Phase 0 : ( I s o p r o p y l paraben,

WtTO

5.00

T-2000

I s o b u t y l paraben, PE

n-butyl

paraben,

phenoxyethanol)/LiquaPar

0.50

Procedure: Combine p h a s e A . H e a t t o 75C w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l homogeneous. Add p h a s e C t o A . C o o l m i x t u r e t o 65C. Combine a n d h e a t p h a s e B t o 55C w n i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l s o l i d s a r e f u l l y d i s s o l v e d . S l o w l y add phase B t o A / C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add p h a s e D t o A / B / C . H o m o g e n i z e a t moderate speeds t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e c o o l s t o 3 5 C . S t i r s l o w l y a l l o w i n g m i x t u r e t o r e a c h room t e m p e r a t u r e . Note: V i s c o s i t y : 2 2 , 4 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d R V # 5 , 1 0 rpm @ 25C) S t a b i l i t y F r e e z e / T h a w : No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 5 c y c l e s S t a b i l i t y a t 50C: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 3 m o n t h s SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c , : F o r m u l a EUS5-66

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

330

S u n s c r e e n (W/O) L o t i o n SPF 30 W a t e r p r o o f B r o a d S p e c t r u m UVA/UVB P r o t e c t i o n S t a t i c SPF 33 W a t e r p r o o f SPF 30 I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : O c t y l S t e a r a t e / C r o d a m o l 0s O c t o c r y l ene/Eusol ex OCR C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s / M y r i t o 1 318 P e t r o l a t u m / U l t i ma W h i t e C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d D i m e t h i cone/Dow C o r n i n g 200 F1 u i d 50cST PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e / A r l a c e 1 P I 35 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e / A b i l WE-09 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e / C r o d a f o s CES

Phase B : Dei o n i zed Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l A1 1 a n t o i n / R o n a P h e n y l b e n z i m i d a z o l e S u l f o n i c A c i d (% a s a c i d ) / E u s o l e x 232 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Sodium C h l o r i d e

7.00 7.00 5.00 1.50 3.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 1 .oo 57.40 3.00 0.20 2.00 2.00 0.40

Phase C : T i t a n i um D i o x i d e / E u s o l e x T - 2 0 0 0 Phase D : ( I s o p r o p y l paraben, I s o b u t y l paraben, p h e n o x y e t h a n o l ) / L i q u a P a r PE/ISP

Wt%

4.00

n-butyl

paraben, 0.50

Procedure: Combine Phase A . H e a t t o 75C w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l homogeneous. Add Phase C t o A . C o o l m i x t u r e t o 65C. Combine a n d h e a t Phase B t o 55C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l s o l i d s a r e f u l l y d i s s o l v e d . S l o w l y a d d Phase B t o A/C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add Phase D t o A / B / C . H o m o g e n i z e a t moderate speeds t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e c o o l s t o 35C. S t i r s l o w l y a l l o w i n g m i x t u r e t o r e a c h room t e m p e r a t u r e .

Note: V i s c o s i t y : 1 5 , 2 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d RV#5, 1 0 rpm 8 25C) S t a b i l i t y F r e e z e / T h a w : No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 5 c y c l e s S t a b i l i t y 50C: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 1 m o n t h

SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a EUS6-14

Sun Care Products

T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e E a s e d W a t e r R e s i s t a n t Sunscreen

331

(SPF 2 2 )

T h i s smooth s u n s c r e e n l o t i o n c o n t a i n s no " c h e m i c a l " a b s o r b e r s a n d d e l i v e r s u n i f o r m , n o n - c h a l k y w a t e r p r o o f p r o t e c t i o n . Pemulen TR-1 e n s u r e s h i g h s t a b i l i t y a n d a l l o w s f o r e a s y f o r m u l a t i o n o f the lotion.

I n q r e d ie n t /T r a d e Name : P a r t A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . D i s o d i u m EDTA 3 . Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose/Benecel 4 . Aminomethyl Propanol/AMP-95 5. Propylene Glycol

Wt% 67.10 0.05 0.10 0.25 5.00

MP943PR

P a r t B: 6 . C12-15 A l c o h o l s E e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN 7. Butyl Stearate 8 . M y r i s t y 1 M y r i s t a t e / C e r a p h y l 424 9. Sorbitan Oleate 10.Acrylates/C10-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e s Crosspolymer/ Pemulen TR-1 l l . C a r b o m e r / C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 10 Part C: 13. O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (and) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e / T i o v e i l 1 4 . P o l y g l y c e r y l - 1 0 D e c a o l e a t e / C a p m u l 10G-10-0

3.00 3.00 4.00 0.10 0.20 0.20 OP

15.00 1.oo

Properties: Appearance: W h i t e , t h i c k , creamy e m u l s i o n pH: 6 . 2 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 32,000-38,000 P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . H e a t t o 50C. 2 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine f i r s t f o u r P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . H e a t t o 65C. A f t e r m i x t u r e i s u n i f o r m , d i s p e r s e r e s i n s . M i x unti 1 uniform. 3 . U s i n g r a p i d a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x t o f o m a smooth, v i s c o u s e m u l s i o n . 4 . Combine P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s a n d m i x w e l l . 5 . Add P a r t C t o b a t c h . 6 . U s i n g m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y a d d P a r t D t o t h e emu s i o n . S l o w l y c o o l l o t i o n u s i n g c o n t i n u e d moderate a g i t a t i o n .

SOURCE:

B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n PO049

332

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Waterproof Sunscreen Cream Concept Statement: An elegant waterproof sunscreen cream containing Pationic SCL to moisturize and smooth skin, and SOD Vegetable and Defensine to detoxify, repair and protect the skin. Inqredients: 1. Pationic SCL (Sodium Cocoyl Lactylate) 2 . Rita Cetearvl Alcohol 50/50 (Cetearvl Alcohol) 3. Rita GMS (Giyceryl Stearate) 4. Titanium Dioxide (Micro) 5. Methyl Anthranilate 6. C12-Cl6 Alkyl Benzoate 7. PVP/Eicosene Copolymer 8. Distilled/Deionized Water 9. Acritamer 941 (Carbomer) 10.Propylene Glycol 11.DMDM Hydantoin 12.NaOH ( 2 0 % Solution) 13.SOD Vegetable (Superoxide Dismutase) 14.Defensine (Wheat Germ Extract) 15.Fragrance 16.D&C Red No. 33

wt% 0.50 1.60 4.00 4.00 5.00 7.50 0.50 68.10 0.20

3.00 2.00 q.s.

2.40 3.00 q.s. q.s.

Compounding Procedure: Disperse item 9 into item 8 and neutralize with item 12. Add item 10 and heat to 80C. Combine items 1-7 and heat to 80C. Add oil phase to water phase. Cool to 35C and items 13-16. SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp.: LI Ref. No. 124-35B

Sun Care Products

333

Waterproof Suntan Lotion SPF 17 Inqredient: Wt8;X A: Isostearic Acid 4.00 Cetyl Alcohol 1.00 DEA Cetyl Phosphate 2.00 Dimethicone 0.50 Octyl Methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX) 7.50 Octyl Salicylate 4.00 Benzophenone-3 (Uvinul M-40) 2.00 10.00 Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate (Elefac 1-205) B: Deionized Water 63.00 Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 0.75 Rhodigel, Xanthan Gum 0.25 G 1ycerin 4.00 C: Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben 1.00 Procedure: Weigh the water into a suitable vessel and heat to 85C. Dry and blend the Veegum and Rhodigel and add them to the water while mixing with a homogenizer at 5000 rpm. Continue mixing for 20 minutes. Add the remaining Part B ingredient and mix 3 minutes. Weigh and mix the Part A ingredients in another vessel and heat them to 85C. Add Part A to Part B and mix for 10 minutes at 5000 rpm. Move the batch to a propeller mixer and adjust the speed to create a small vortex. Begin cooling while mixing slowly. At 40C, add Part C. Continue cooling and package at 35C. *As received basis SOURCE: R.T. Vanderbilt Co., Inc.: Formulation from Bernel Chemical Co., Inc.

Moisturizinq Sunscreen Wt% Inqredient: Part A: Monafax MAP-160 1.0 Phospholipid SV 2.5 KOH (45%) 0.4 Germaben I1 0.4 Titanium Dioxide 0.4 Water 77.0 1.0 Monasil PDM Part B: Cetyl Alcohol 2.0 1212-15 Alkyl Benzoates 2.0 Isopropyl Palmitate 2.3 Dimethicone 1.0 Octyl Methoxycinnamate 6.0 Methyl Anthranilate 3.0 Steareth-2 1.0 Procedure: 1) Heat A & B separately to 65C. 2) Slowly add B to A with homogenization and continue blending for an appropriate time. Adjust pH to 5.0 with citric acid. 3 ) Stir cool to 40-45C, add fragrance and package. SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulation

334

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W a t e r g r o o f WfO-Suns_c_reen L o t i on SPF-16 I n g r _ e d ients-; Wt% Phase A . P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol 5.0 ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) Mineral O i l 5.0 Octyl Stearate (Tegosoft 0 s ) 6 0 C y c l omethi cone 4 0 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1.o I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) 4 0 H y d r o g e n a t e d C a s t o r Oil 0.8 M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax 1.2 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 3 0 Phase 8 : Water 69 2 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 P r e s e r v a t i ves Q.S. Phase C : Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 8OC t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 Heat Phase 8 t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e n e r g y m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e 4 . Homogeni ze

Cp_o_l1-n-gpfte-r Su-n- Lcot_i-on

gt % Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) 2.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 6.5 Mineral O i l 5.7 Phase 6 : Glycerin 3.0 Water 71 . 4 Phase C: 0.8 Mineral O i l Carbomer 941 0.2 Ethanol 10.0 Phase D : Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % s o l u t i o n ) 0.4 Phase E : Fragrance Q.S. P r e s e r v a t i ves Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 8 O C . 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase 6 t o 8OC. Add A t o 6 o r B t o A w i t h o u t s t i r r i n g . 4 . S t i r . 5 . D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A/B. Homogenize. 6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add E t h a n o l . 8 . Add phase D / E . S t i r . 9 . M i x u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t . __ Inaredienfs;

SOURCE:

G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Sun Care Products

335

Wa&%ruxo~f-WLQ_Sunsccee~L otia n SPF 22

_r_nsr_e_dLents 1.

Wt%

Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone 5.0 C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5.0 Mineral O i l 4.0 Octyl Stearate (Tegosoft 0s) 4.0 Cyclomethicone 1.o C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 0 1 ) 4.0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegosoft M) 2.0 Almond O i 1 0.8 Hydrogenated Castor O i l M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1.2 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 3.0 Phase B: 69.2 Water Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 Q.S. Preservatives Phase C : Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Add t h e c o m p o n e n t s o f Phase A . H e a t w h i l e m i x i n g t o 8OC t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e w a x e s . C o o l t o 50C. 2 . H e a t Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e n e r g y m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a p p e a r a n c e a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . C o o l t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . H o m o g e n i z e . Wate.r.- ? n- 0.i1 S_uns c r e e n S P F 26

Lnsr-edi e.nts : wto/, Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copolyol (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 5.00 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 4 0 ) 0.25 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 1 .25 Octyl Stearate (Tegosoft 0s) 5.35 Mineral O i l 1.75 Beeswax 1.20 0.80 Hydrogenated Castor O i l Phase B: 5.00 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Titanium Dioxide 5.00 Cyclomethicone 4.40 Phase C : Water 69.20 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.80 Q.S. Preservatives Procedure: 1 . H e a t Phase A t o 85C t o m e l t a n d d i s p e r s e w a x e s . 2 . C o o l Phase A t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e n e r g y m i x e r . 3 . R o l l e r m i l l t o reduce p a r t i c l e s i z e o f T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . 4 . C o o l t o 50C. 5 . H e a t Phase C t o 50C. Add Phase C t o A/B s l o w l y w i t h low e n e r g y m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n a s m o o t h m i l k y a p p e a r a n c e a t a l l t i m e s w h i l e m i x i n g . 6 . C o o l t o 35C a n d h o m o g e n i z e . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

336

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Water R e s i s t a n t Sunscreen L o t i o n

h ~ ~ s .e nd_it L T ~ & -Name:

%t.%

P a r t A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . C a r b o m e r / C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 10 3 . D e i o n i z e d Water 4 . H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e / M e t h o c e l E4M 5 . Polymethoxy B i c y c l i c Oxazolidine/Nuosept C 6 . D i s o d i u m EDTA

62.60 0.20 20.00 0.10 0.20 0.05

Part C: 7 . O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e / N e o H e l i o p a n , T y p e AV 8 . O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / N e o H e l i o p a n , Type 0 s 9 . O x y b e n z o n e / U v i n u 1 M-40 1 0 . C 1 2 - 1 5 A l c o h o l s B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN 11.Acrylates/C10-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e s Crosspolymer/ P e m u l e n TR-1

0.25

P a r t D: 1 2 . A m i n o m e t h y l P r o p a n o l /AMP-95 A-40 13.PEG-20 Almond G l y c e r i d e s / C r o v a 1 4 , F r a g r a n c e / F r a g r a n c e #99189 "Tw s t e r "

0.25 0.20 0.14

7.00 3.00 4.00 4.00

Properties: pH: 5 . 8 - 6 . 1 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 20,000-28,000 A p p e a r a n c e : Creamy w h i t e e m u l s on P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: Part A: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 10 i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r (40-5OC) P a r t B: 2. D i s p e r s e Methocel i n d e i o n i z e d water i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . When u n i f o r m , a d d o t h e r P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . 3 . Add P a r t 8 t o P a r t A . Par- t c : 4 . Combine f i r s t f o u r P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . H e a t m i x t u r e and m i x u n t i l oxybenzone h a s d i s s o l v e d . 5 . C o o l P a r t C t o 45C. D i s p e r s e Pemulen TR-1 i n P a r t C . M i x u n t i l polymer i s dispersed w e l l . 6 . W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t C t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l a smooth, n o n - g r a i n y d i s p e r s i o n i s a p p a r e n t 7 . Add AMP-95 t o b a t c h . M i x u n t i l a s m o o t h p r o d u c t i s o b t a i n e d . 8 . Add C r o v o l A-40 a n d f r a g r a n c e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .

SOURCE:

6 . F . G o o d r i c h Co.:

F o r m u l a t i o n PO052

Sun Care Products

Water-Resistant

337

Sunscreen L o t i o n

SPF 2 4 T h i s h i g h S P F s u n s c r e e n l o t i o n p r o v i d e s l o n g - l a s t i n g UV p r o t e c t i o n and has e x c e l l e n t w a t e r - r e s i s t a n t p r o p e r t i e s p r o v i d e d by A v a l u r e A C 118 f i l m f o r m i n g p o l y m e r a n d P e m u l e n T R - 2 p o l y m e r i c emu1 s t f i erI n y r e d i e n t j T c a d e Name: P a r t A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . C a r b o m e r / C a r b o p o l U l t r - e z 1 0 Polymer3 . H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l L t l o s e / M e t h o c e l E4M 4 . P r o p y l ene G l y c o l 5 . Polymethoxy B i c y c l i c Oxazolidine/Nuosept C 6 . D i s o d i u t n EDTA 7 . PEG-20 A 1 mond G1 y c e r i des..'Crovol A-40 Part B: 8 . O c t y l M e t h o x y c i rtnama t.e/Neo He1 i o p a n , T y p e A V 9 . O c t y l S a l i c y l a t t t / N e o He; i o p a n , T y p e 0 s l O . O x y b e n z u n e / N e o He1 i opan, T y p e BR 11 .C12-15 A l c o h o l s B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN 12.Acrylates,'C10-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ Pemirleri TR-2 P o l y m e r P a r t C: 1 3 . A m i n o m e t h y l P r , o p a n o l /AMP-55 1 4 . A c r y l a t . e ~C o p o l y m e r / A v a l i i r ~ AC 118 P o l y m e r 1 5 . F r a y r a i i c e #95189 " T w i s t e t - "

w tYo 66.10 0.25 0.10 1.oo 0.40 0.05 0.40

7.50 5.00

6.00

5 . on 0.25

0.30 7 I50 0.15

P r o p e r t i es : A p p e a r a n c e : M I 1 k y w h i t.e emu.1 s i o i i PH: 6.0-6.5 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 1S,UOO-24,OClO S P F : 24 S t a h i 1 i t y : P a s s e d 45C, ~ c c e l e r a t e d1 m o n t h . e / t h a v / - 3 C;y<;leS P r e p a r a t i o n Pr.0cedut-e: 1 . Part. A : U i s L J e r s e C a i ~ b n p o l U l t r r L i 0 p o l y m e r . a n d fvl i n warm d e i o n i z e d w a t e r ( 4 0 - 5 O C ) . R e d u c e r i i i x t r i g s polymers a r e dispersed. 2 . iYtier.i u n i f o r m , a d d o t h e r p a r t A i t ! g r e d i e t t t s a n d r i t i x u i - i t i 1 LI I Forrn. 3 . P a r t B : Contbi!ie f i r s t foi.tr i t i y r e c l i e i n t s i n P a r t 8 t t i a s e p ar'at e v e s s e l . H e a t and n i i r u i i t i l oxybenzone has d i s s o l v e d . 4 . C o o l P a r t B t o 4 5 C . D i s p e r s e P r r n u ~ l e t i TR-2 i t 1 P a r t E arid m i x u n l i1 w e l l d ispersed. 5 . W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B i o P a r t A , tvlix Fur. 2 0 m i r1uCt.s or' i i i i t I 1 a s t t i o o t l i , t i o r i - y r a i rty c i i s p e r s i o n i s a p p a r e l i t . 6 . Add AMP-95 t o b a t c h , m i x u n t i l a stiiootlt pt-'or:luct i s o b t a i : i e d . 7 . A d d A v a l u r e A C 118 aiid fr.a yra r\ce t o b d t c h . M i x u n t i l IJnlfOt-m.

SOURCE:

BF G o o d r i c h S p e c i a l t y C h e m i c a l s :

F o r m u l a t i o n A0005

338

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O Sunscreen Lotion Comvonent: Wt$ I Dehymuls PGPH/Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 3.0 Monomuls 90-018/Glyceryl Oleate 1.0 Myritol 318/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 6.0 Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol 6.0 Cetiol SN/Cetearyl Isononanoate 5.0 Copherol F 1250/Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0 Permulgin 2550/Beeswax (Cera Alba) 1.2 7.0 Neo Heliopan ElOOO/Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate Zinc Oxide neutral 6.0 I1 Water 58.0 5.0 Glycerin 86% 111 Phenonip/Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben 0.5 Perfume Oil 0.3 1. Melt the components listed under I at 80-85C and stir until homogeneous. 2. Heat the components listed under I1 to 80-85C and add to phase I while stirring. Stir for 5 minutes at this temperature. 3. Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring in such a way that it remains in continual motion. Avoid the incorporation of air. Homogenise at 65-55C by means of a suitable dispersion unit to improve both stability and structure. When fully homogeneous allow to cool to 30C with stirring. Addition of 111 at 30C. Formulation No.: HR1 LSF/SPF ca. 17 (DIN) O/W Lotion with SPF 15 Component: wt% I Emulgade PL 68/50/Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol 4.5 Cetiol SN/Cetearyl Isononanoate 10.0 Baysilon M 350/Dimethicone 0.5 2.0 Copherol F 1300/Tocopherol Benzophenone-3 2.0 Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5 3.0 I1 Glycerin 86% 65.4 Water 111 Carbopol 981 2%ig/Carbomer 5.0 0.1 IV KOH 20%ig Viscosity 23C mPas: 15,000 1. Heat oil phase to 80C. Heat aqueous phase to 80C and add to oil phase while stirring. Emulsify for 5 minutes at this temperature. 2 . Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring in such a way that it remains in continual motion without developing a so-called "stirring cone". Avoid incorporation of air. Excessive stirring, in particular below 50C, can lead to the reduction of the final viscosity. 3. Add phase 111, at 50C. 4. At 40C neutralized with phase IV. Finish stirring at 30C. Note: During cooling, emulsion systems on the basis of Emulgade PL 68/50 can pass through distinct gel phase. Formulation No. 95/190/94 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations

Sun Care Products

339

Zinc Oxide Sunscreen Cream fPABA/Oxvbenzone Free1 Estimated SPF=2O

Inaredient: A: Octocrylene (Neo Heliopan 303) Octyl Methoxycinnamate (Neo Heliopan AV) Isocetyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 Glyceryl Stearate PEG-40 Stearate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Tocopheryl Acetate

Wt%*

B: Zinc Oxide

6.00

C: Deionized Water Veegum Ultra, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate Rhodigel, Xanthan Gum Propylene Glycol Disodium EDTA

7.00 7.50 2.00 2.00 3.00 1.00 1.00 0.75 0.25

65.30 0.50 0.50 2.00 0.20

Weigh the Part C water into a suitable vessel and mix with a propeller stirrer operating at 1800 rpm. Weigh and dry blend the Veegum Ultra and Rhodigel and add them to the water. Mix for 30 minutes at 1800 rpm. Add the remaining Part C ingredients in order and mix until uniform. Begin heating the water phase to 75C. Weigh the Part A ingredients into another vessel and heat to 75C. Add Part B to Part A and mix until uniform. Slowly add Parts AtB to Part C and homogenize at 5000 rpm until uniform. Transfer the batch to a propeller mixer and adjust the speed to produce a small vortex. Begin cooling. At 40C, add Part D. Continue mixing and cooling. Package at 25-28C. SOURCE: R.T. Vanderbilt Co., Inc.: Formulation from Haarrnan & Reimer Corp.

340

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Z i n c O x i d e Sunscreen (Measured SPF=9.22 Ingredient: A: Glyceryl Stearate PEG-40 S t e a r a t e Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 T r i c o n t a n y l PVP Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides Mineral O i l Dimethicone B: Z i n c O x i d e ( Z i n c O x i d e N e u t r a l ) C : D e i o n i z e d Water Veegum U1 t r a , Magnesi um Aluminum S i 1 i c a t e R h o d i g e l , Xanthan Gum Propylene Glycol T e t r a s o d i um EDTA D : DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( a n d ) I o d o p r o p y n y l B u t y l c a r b a m a t e L a c t i c A c i d , 88%

Wt%* 2 50 0.75 0 * 75 2 .oo 5.00 5.00 2.00 10.00 65.35 0.75 0.50 5.00 0.10 0.20 0.10 I

Procedure: Weigh t h e P a r t C w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and mix w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r o p e r a t i n g a t 1800 r p m . Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l and add them t o t h e w a t e r . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s a t 1800 rpm. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . B e g i n h e a t i n g t h e w a t e r phase t o 8 O C . Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l and h e a t t o 80C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y add P a r t s A t B t o P a r t C and homogenize a t 5 0 0 0 rpm u n t i l u n i f o r m . T r a n s f e r t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o p r o d u c e a s m a l l v o r t e x . B e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t 0 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . Package a t 25-3OC. *AS r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , Reimer C o r p .

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n f r o m Haarman &

__._____ M i l k and Honey

Part: A A B

B C

Sunscreen S t i c k

wt%

Raw M a t e r i a l : Monalac ML M i l k L i p i d B l e a c h e d Beeswax O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA Benzophenone 3 Fragrance

70.0 20.0 7.0 3.0 qs

Procedure: M e l t and m i x P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s 65C. M i x p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e , when c l e a r add t o P a r t A . Cool t o 60C. Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , and a n t i o x i d a n t s i f d e s i r e d . When w e l l m i x e d pour o f f i n t o c o n t a i n e r s . Product w i l l s o l i d i f y a t about 55C. T h i s p r o d u c t i s an opaque, p a l e y e l l o w s o l i d w i t h an a p p r o x i m a t e SPF v a l u e o f 1 5 .

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a t i o n F-721

Section XI1 Miscellaneous

34 I

342

Cosmetic and Toi/etry Formulations Bacitracin OintmentlO/Wl

Wt%

Inqredients: A. Stearic acid Isopropyl Myristate Arlacel 60 sorbitan monostearate Tween 6 0 POE 20 sorbitan monostearate

15.0 1.0 2.0

B. Sorbitol 7 0 % Solution LISP Water

3.0 71.5

C.

Arlasolve DMI Dimethyl Isosorbide Bacitracin

1.5

5.0

1.0 4.s.

D. Preservative

Prepration: Add (B) to 72C to (A) at 70C. Agitate continuously until the emulsion reaches 50C. Stir in ( C ) until thoroughly mixed. Add (D). Stir until emulsion reaches 40C, replace lost water and package. Hydrocortisone Ointment (O/W] Insredients: A. Cetyl alcohol Arlacel 1 6 5 glycerol monostearate and poloxyethylene 100 stearate (acid-stable, self-emulsifying) B. Sorbitol 7 0 % Solution USP Water C.

Arlasolve DMI Dimethyl Isosorbide Hydrocortisone

D. Preservative

Wt% 7.0

5.0

5.0 72.0 10.0 1.0 4.s.

Preparation: Add (B) at 72C to (A) at 70C with good agitation. Add ( C ) at 50C and mix thoroughly. Add D. Stir until emulsion reaches 45C, replace lost water and package.

SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations

Miscellaneous

343

C h i l d r e n ' s D e n t i f r i c e Gel Stage. A

Ingredient: Glycerin CMC 9MXF U s i n g Cowles d i s s o l v e r , persed.

a d d CMC t o g l y c e r i n u n t i l w e l l

Wt% 5 00 0 30 dis-

B

35.55 S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 3.00 Water 0 50 Na B e n z o a t e 0 84 Na MFP 0 20 Na S a c c h a r i n FD&C B l u e # 1 ( 1 % s o l n ) 0.15 D i s s o l v e b e n z o a t e , MFP, a n d s a c c h a r i n i n w a t e r a n d s o r b i t o l Add c o l o r . M i x u n t i l d i s p e r s e d C

B t o A u s i n g a homogenizer. Allow m i x t u r e t o h e a t t o 50-6OC. Add

PEG 1 4 5 0 S o r b i t o l (70%) M e l t P E G , M i x w i t h s o r b l t o l a t h i g h s p e e d Add t o C , m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n h e a t a t 50-60C, and m i x f o r 30 m i n s .

5 00 25.00 ,vhile

S y l o d e n t 750 Sylodent 2 T r a n s f e r b a t c h t o vacuum, m i x e r b e a p p l i e d i f d e s i r e d ( 3 0 t o 40C1

5.00 12.00 H e a t may

D

E

Mix for

F Flavor Add a n d m i x f o r o n e m i n .

20-30

mi,is

1 00

S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 5 00 Na L a d r y l S u l f a t e 1 .50 P r e d i s p e r s e SLS i n h o t s o r b i t o l Add t o b a t c h w i t h m i n i m a l d i s p e r s i o n . P u l l 28" b e f o r e s t a r t i n g m i x e r . G

SOURCE:

Grace/Davison* Suggested Formulation

344

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Clear Emollient Microemulsion (With AHA-Ester) Raw Materials: A) Imwitor 3 8 0 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Softigen 767 (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) Preservative Water up to B ) Fragrance

wt% 30.00 20.00 30.00

q.s. 100.00

q.s.

Preparation: All ingredients are mixed together and stirred until homogeneous. Formulation 1.5Y Penetratinq Massaqe Oil (With AHA-Ester) Raw Materials: Imwitor 380 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Miglyol 8 4 0 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate) Softigen 701 (Glyceryl Ricinoleate) Mineral Oil Antioxidants

wt% 10.00 40.00

20.00 1.00 29.00 q.s.

PreDaration: A11 ingredients are mixed together at about 4 0 degrees C. Formulation 1.52

SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Miscellaneous

345

E m u l s i o n , Type O/W Raw M a t e r i a1 s : A: E u m u l g i n VL 75 Lanette 0 Monomul s 60-35C C e t i o l LC Cetiol 6 C e t i o l PGL Phenoni p

wt% 4.50 2.00 1.oo 4.00 5.00 1.oo 0.30

B: Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p Glycerin Carbopol 980

C:

66.85 0.30 2.00 0.30

KOH 20%

0.75

0 : Glycoderm ( P )

10.00

Manufacture: A : M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C. B: B r i n g t o approx. O C and add t o a ) w i t h s t i r r ng C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 50C C : Add. C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C D: S t i r i n . Perfume, homogenize

SOURCE:

Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r . Formulation

.

K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Suggested

Microsel, Soft Raw M a t e r i a l s : A . S o f t i g e n 767 (PEG-6 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c G l y c e r i d e s ) M a r l i p a l 1618/25 ( C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 ) I PM B.

Preservative Water ad Perfume A 1 0 003 E F r a g r a n c e

Wtl 29.00 15.00 5.00 q.s 100.00

0.30

Preparation : A i s b r o u g h t t o 70C, B i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o A . I t i s s t i r r e d down t o 35C, t h e n p e r f u m e i s added.

SOURCE:

H u l s A k t i e n g e s e l l s c h a f t : F o r m u l a t i o n HUKMGS

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

346

High Cleanina Dentifrice Gel Stage:

Inqredient: Glycerin CMC 9MXF U s i n g Cowles d i s s o l v e r , dispersed.

W

B

5.00 0.30

A

add CMC t o g l y c e r i n u n t i l w e l l

26.51 S o r b i t o l (70%) 3.00 Water 0.50 Na Benzoate 0.84 Na MFP 0.20 Na S a c c h a r i n 0.15 FD&C B l u e # I ( 1 % s o l n ) D i s s o l v e b e n z o a t e , MFP, and s a c c h a r i n i n w a t e r and s o r b i t o l . Add c o l o r . M i x u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . 0

Add B t o A and m i x u s i n g a homogen z e r . A l l o w m i x t u r e t o h e a t t o 50-6OC.

C

PEG 1450 Sorbi t o 1 (70%) M e l t P E G . M i x w i t h s o r b i t o l a t h i g h speed. Add t o C , m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n h e a t a t 50-60C, and m i x f o r 30 m i n s . D

5.00 21 .oo while

S y l o d e n t 756 20.00 Sylodent 2 8.50 T r a n s f e r b a t c h t o vacuum m i x e r . M i x f o r 2 0 - 3 0 m i n s . Heat may be a p p l i e d i f d e s i r e d ( 3 0 t o 40C). E

F

Alcohol F1 a v o r Add and m i x f o r one m i n

1.50 1 .oo

Sorbi t o 1 (70%) 5.00 Na L a u r y l S u l f a t e 1 .50 P r e d i s p e r s e SLS i n h o t s o r b i t o l . Add t o b a t c h w i t h m i n i m a l d i s p e r s i o n . P u l l 28" b e f o r e s t a r t i n g m i x e r . G

SOURCE: Grace/Davi

son:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Miscellaneous

347

Insect Repellent C r e a m (W/O) with W-Filter Raw Materials: Insect Repellent 3535 (Art.-No. 111887) (Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate) Eusolex 6300 (Art.-No. 105385) . (4-Methylbenzylidene . Camphor ) Dow Corning 3225C (Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone Copolyol) Dow Corning 344 (Cyclomethicone) Bentone paste SIL (Cyclomethicone (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) SD Alcohol 40) Solvent ID (Isododecane) Witconol 14 (Polyglyceryl-4Oleate) Beeswax, white (Art.-No. 111544) (Beeswax) Carnauba wax (Copernica Cerifera) Sodium chloride (Art.-No. 106400) Propanediol-1,2 (Art.-No. 107478) (Propylene Glycol) Preservatives Water, demineralized ad

wt% 20.00 3.00

12.00 2.50

15.00 7.30 2.50

2.00 0.50 2.00 2.00 q.s. 100.00

Procedure: Mix phase C. Heat phase B to 8OC, stir until clear and cool to 25C. Add phase A to phase B. Add phase C. Homogenize. As required add perfume. Note: Samples contain as preservatives 0.20% Euxyl K400 Formulation 14-04/F Insect Repellent Lotion Raw Materials: Wt”a A Insect Repellent 3535 (Art. No. 111887) (Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate) 20.00 Polyethylene glycol 400 (Art. No. 817003) (PEG-8) 5.00 B Ethanol 96% (Art. No. 100971) 35.00 15.00 Water, demineralized C Polyethylene glycol 1500 (Art. No. 817005) (PEG-30) 4.00 D Arlamol E (PPG-15 Stearyl Ether) 3.00 Perfume oil Bariton (10607) 0.30 E Water, demineralized 17.70 Procedure: Blend phase D. Mix phase B and incorporate phases A, C, D and E while stirring. Note : pH22C=5.8 Formulation 10-01/F

SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Suggested Formulations

348

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Men's A l c o h o l - F r e e

Colosne

T h i s s p r a y a b l e p r o d u c t i s l i g h t , e l e g a n t and w i l l n o t s t i n g the skin.

Wt%

I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: Dei o n i zed Water DMDM H y d a n t o i n / G l y d a n t O l e t h - l O / B r i j 97

91.58 0.30 0.30

P a r t B: Cyclomethicone/245 F l u i d I s o s t e a r y l Benzoate A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 A1 k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r / Pemulen TR-2 Part C: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) Propylparaben/Germaben I I E T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e / T E A (99%) F r a g r a n c e / " P o l o S p o r t " t y p e #A1 1518 o r " D r a k k a r " t y p e #F10091513 D i s o d i um EDTA/Versene NA

4.00 0.50 0.15

1.oo 0.12 2.00 0.05

Properties: pH: 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) a t 25C: 600-900 PreDaration Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a n the e n t i r e formulaton. 2 . Blend P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a separate vessel (ambient t e m p e r a t u r e ) . The Pemulen p o l y m e r s h o u l d be s l u r r i e d i n t h i s phase. 0-20 3 . W i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x f o r minutes t o a l l o w p . o l y- m e r t o s w e l l . Add Germaben I I E and m i x u n t i 1 uniform. 4 . Add TEA and m i x v i g o r o u s l y t o p r o d u c e a smooth e m u l s i o n . 5 . Add f r a g r a n c e t o b a t c h . 6 . M i x D i s o d i u m EDTA and e m u l s i o n i n c r e m e n t a l l y t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y downward t o 600-900 cP t o make p r o d u c t s p r a y a b l e . (NOTE: Do n o t add more t h a n a t o t a l o f 0 . 1 % o r e m u l s i o n may separate.)

SOURCE:

B.F. Goodrich Co.:

F o r m u l a t i o n PO059

Miscellaneous

Mineral

349

O i l Emulsion C o n t a i n i n g Ethanol

F o r m u l a SK-13 i s a m i n e r a l o i l c r e a m w i t h a l u x u r i o u s a f t e r f e e l . The a l c o h o l p r o v i d e s a c o o l i n g e f f e c t a s t h e c r e a m s p r e a d s s m o o t h l y w i t h good " r u b - i n " c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s r e s u l t i n g i n a non-greasy f e e l . Ingredients:

Wt%

A Light mineral o i l

B

C D E F

8.00

S t e a r y l a1 c o h o 1 B r i j 721 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 B r i j 72 S t e a r e t h - 2 Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbomer 9 3 4 S o d i u m h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n , 10% a q u e o u s Preservative Perfume E t h a n o l , SDA-40 ( 1 9 0 p r o o f )

1

.oo

2,20 1 .72 66.00 0.40 0.40 q.s. 0.20 20.00

P r e p a r a t i on : H e a t ( A ) t o 70C a n d ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) a n d ( F ) a t 35C. R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n a n d p a c k a g e . F o r m u l a SK-13 Hvdrophilic O i l

Wt%

Inaredients: Arlatone T Arlamol E Arlamol HD A r l a m o l S7 S u n f 1 ower o i 1 Jojoba o i l Paraffin o i l

3.0 6.0 20.0 4.0 20.0 5.0 42.0

Manufacture: Simple room-temperature b l e n d i n g Comments: H y d r o p h i l i c i t y o f t h e o i l can be a l t e r e d by a d j u s t i n g t h e concentration o f Arlatone T. Formula F44-12-3 SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

350

M o d e r a t e A b r a s i v i t y D e n t i f r i ce G e l Ingredient: G1 y c e r i n CMC SMXF Us ng Cowles d i s s o l v e r , d spe s e d .

Wt%

Staqe:

5.00 0 30

A

I

add CMC t o g l y c e r i n u n t i l w e l l

31.51 Sorbi t o 1 (70%) Water 3.00 Na Benzoate 0.50 Na MFP 0.84 Na S a c c h a r i n 0.20 FD&C B l u e #1 ( 1 % s o l n ) 0.15 D i s s o l v e b e n z o a t e , MFP, and s a c c h a r i n i n w a t e r and s o r b i t o l . Add c o l o r . M i x u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . B

C

Add B t o A and m i x u s i n g a h o m o g e n i z e r . A l l o w m i x t u r e t o h e a t t o 50-6OC.

D

PEG 1450 5.00 S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 25.00 M e l t PEG. M i x w i t h s o r b i t o l a t h i g h speed. Add t o C , w h i l e m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n h e a t a t 50-60C, and m i x f o r 30 m i n s

E

S y l o d e n t 750 Sylodent 2 T r a n s f e r b a t c h t o vacuum m i x e r . M i x f o r 0 - 3 0 be a p p l i e d i f d e s i r e d (30 t o 40C). F

A1 coho1 F1 a v o r Add and m i x f o r one m i n .

10.00 9.50 m i n s . Heat may 1.50 1.oo

Sorbi t o 1 (70%) 5.00 Na L a u r y l S u l f a t e 1.50 P r e d i s p e r s e S L S i n h o t S o r b i t o l . Add t o b a t c h w i t h m i n i m a l d i s p e r s i o n . P u l l 28" b e f o r e s t a r t i n g m i x e r . G

SOURCE: G r a c e / D a v i s o n :

Suggested Formulation

Miscellaneous

357

Mu1 t i p l e Emul s ion I. P r i m a r y e m u l s i o n W / O :

Wt%

Inqredi ents: A A r l a m o l HD, Isohexadecane C a p r y l ic / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e s A r l a m o l E , PPG-15 s t e a r y l e t h e r A r l a c e l P135, PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e

15.0 7.5 7.5 4.0

B Water

65.6 0.4

Sodium c h l o r i d e Preservative

9.s

P r e p a r a t i o n - P r i m a r y Emul s i o n : Heat ( A ) and ( B ) t o 45C s e p a r a t e l y . Add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r s t i r r i n g . Homogenize m i x t u r e t h o r o u g h l y . P r o p e l l e r s t i r f o r 30 m i n u t e s . 11. Secondary e m u l s i o n W / O / W :

Inaredie n t s l

*W 70.0

A P r i m a r y e m u l s i o n (W/O)

26.8 2.0 0.5 0.2

B Water S y n p e r o n i c PE/F/127 Poloxamer 407 C Carbopol 934, Carborner D Sodium c h l o r i d e E Preservative F T r ie t h a n o l ami ne

q.s

0.5

Preparation-Secondary Emulsion: D i s s o l v e S y n p e r o n i c PE/F127 i n w a t e r a t 20C w i t h s t i r r i n g t o p r o d u c e ( B ) . S i f t (C) i n t o ( B ) w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . Add ( D ) and ( E ) t o ( B ) / ( C ) m i x t u r e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . S l o w l y add ( A ) t o ( B ) / ( C ) / ( D ) / ( E ) m i x t u r e . Add ( F ) w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r m o d e r a t e l y f a s t f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Comments: V i s c o s i t y 5 0 5 . 2 cps (Brookfield DV-l+/spindle Stability at RT: No 40C: No No 50C: +5C: No No -5/4OC: F/T: No

3/rpm 100) separation separation separation separation separation separation

after after after after after after

1 month 1 month

1 1 1 5

SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

month month month cycles

352

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

P e p p e r m i n t F o o t Scrub I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer/Carbopol U l t r e z 10 Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Part B: TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e (40%)/Standapol T Propylene Glycol

& 79.00 0.25 0.40 0.16 4.00 2 50 I

Part C: G1 y c e r i ne P e p p e r m i n t (Mentha P i p e r i t a ) O i l P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l ( a n d ) Water ( a n d ) M a t r i c a r i a (Chamornilla R e c u i t a ) E x t r a c t / A c t i p h y t e O f Chamomile P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l ( a n d ) Water ( a n d ) I v y (Hedera H e l i x ) Extract/Actiphyte o f I v y Polyrnethoxy B i c y c l i c O x a d i l i d i n e / N u o s e p t C Part D: Pumice D&C Red No. 3 3 ( 0 . 1 % ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

2.50 0.10

0 05 I

0.05 0.20

10.00 0.35 0,44

P r o p e r t ies : C o l o r , O d o r , Appearance: L i g h t - r e d pumice s u s p e n s i o n g e l pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 6 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 18,000-20,000 B r o o k f i e l d Y i e l d V a l u e ( d y n e s / c m 2 ) : 750-850 S t a b i l i t y : Passed f r e e z e / t h a w - 5 c y c l e s Passed h e a t a g i n g - 3 0 days a t 45C Preparation Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 and U l t r e z 10 p o l y m e r i n t h e deionized water. Continue s t i r r i n g s l o w l y t o hydrate f o r a b o u t 20 m i n u t e s . 2 . P a r t i a l l y n e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbopol d i s p e r s i o n w i t h TEA i n P a r t A and m i x u n t i l smooth. 3 . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h s l o w , sweep m i x i n g t o a v o i d f o a m i n g . 4 . Pre-combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t C , and add P a r t C t o P a r t s A/B. M i x s l owl y u n t i 1 homogeneous. 5 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t D t o P a r t s A/B/C, i n o r d e r , m i x i n g t h o r o u g h l y between. F i n i s h b y a d d i n g r e m a i n i n g TEA t o n e u t r a l iz e .

SOURCE:

B.F,

Goodrich Co.:

Formulation

COO65

Miscellaneous

Raw Materia& A : M i g l y o l Gel B ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( a n d ) Stearalkonium H e c t o r i t e (and) Propylene Carbonate) I m w i t o r 7B0K ( I s o s t e a r y l D i g l y c e r y l S u c c i n a t e ) I m w i t o r 928 ( G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ) A b i l WE 09 ( P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) C e t y l Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ) Oow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d ( D i m e t h i c o n e )

y&o/, 20.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 10.0 2.0 100.0 q.s.

B : Magnesium S u l f a t e Water up t o Preservative

C:

353

Perfume O i l

9,s.

Preparation: " A " i s m i x e d and h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. " B " i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o A . A t a b o u t 30C, " C " i s added. Formula 1.25

______ Silicone

E m u l s i o n . Tvpe O/y

Raw M a t e r i a l s : A : M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) I m w i t o r 960K F l a k e s ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e S E ) Dow C o r n i n g 2 0 0 F l u i d ( D i m e t h i c o n e ) B: W a t e r , up t o Preservative C: Perfume O i l

W% 10.0 5.0 5.0 10.0

100.0 q.s. 9,s.

P r e p a r a t ion : " A " i s mixed and h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. " B " i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o A . A t a b o u t 30C, "C" i s added. F o r m u l a 1.1K

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

354

Cosmetic and Toiletty Formulations

. S...k i

n Soot h .....i n g ~

~

.O-iin.tme-n-t

Concept S t a t e m e n t : An e m u l s i o n - t y p e o i n t m e n t c o n t a i n i n g S u p e r s a t f o r e m o l l i ence w i t h t h e a n t i - i r r i t a t i o n a t t r i b u t e s o f P a t i o n i c I S L and R i t a l o e 1x. 1-ngredi e n t s : 1. Petrolatum 2. Supersat (Hydrogenated L a n o l i n ) 3. Ritabate-60 (Polysorbate-60) 4 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 5 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 6 . D i s t i 1 1 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 7 . R i t a l o e 1X ( A l o e V e r a G e l ) 8. Ritapan D (Panthenol) 9 . P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l

Wt%

45.70 8.30 3.50 6.30 1 .70 27.80 2.10 0,40 4.20

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1-5 and h e a t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 6-9 and h e a t t o 7 0 C . Add t o o i l phase and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . N o . 123-13

Cactr !.ate_Ba_sd.-.Ba.Cr.i.er..C_r_e_arn Concept S t a t e m e n t : A r i c h b a r r i e r cream c o n t a i n i n g R i t a p l a s t f o r i t s f i l m f o r m i n g a b i l i t y , and u s i n g P a t i o n i c e m u l s i f i e r s f o r t h e i r added rnoi s t u r i z i ng p r o p e r t i e s .

- : 1. P e t r o l a t u m 2 . R i t a p l a s t ( M i n e r a l O i l and P o l y e t h y l e n e ) 3 . Shebu R e f i n e d (Shea B u t t e r ) 4 . R i t a SSO ( S u n f l o w e r Seed O i l ) 5. R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 6 . P a t i o n i c SBL (Sodium Behenoyl L a c t y l a t e ) 7 . P a t i o n i c CSL ( C a l c i u m S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 8 . Propyl paraben 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 10.Methylparaben I

.. n. g r ed ien t s

W.t% 20.00 20 00 10.00 10.00 2.00 3.00 5.00 0.10 29.80 0.10 9

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1-8 and h e a t t o 7 0 C . Heat i t e m 9 t o 7 0 C and add i t e m 1 0 . Add w a t e r t o o i l phase and m i x u n t i l c o o l . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . N o . 123-158

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Miscellaneous

S.T.

355

Tonic

Raw M a t e r i a l s : A: Cetyl octanoate P a r s o l MCX Tocopheryl acetate PEG-58 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l Eldew CL-301 Butylparaben

wto/,

0.3 0.15 0.1 2.0 0.5 0.1

0.2 5.0 0.05 t o make 1 0 0 . 0

B: Methylparaben Butylene g l y c o l Mar indew PC-100 Water Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 80C and ( 8 ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) i n g . Cool down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .

t o ( A ) w i t h homogeniz-

Features: V e r y m o i s t u r i z i n g and e x c e l l e n t t o u c h . Eldew CL-301 i s an e x c e l l e n t s o l u b i l i z e r f o r V i t a m i n E . No a l c o h o l c o n t a i n e d . F o r m u l a No. EW-3040 S.T.

Tonic

Raw M a t e r i a l s : A: Cetvl octanoate P a r s o l MCX Tocopheryl a c e t a t e PEG-58 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l E l dew CL-301 B u t y l paraben

B: Methylparaben Butylene g l y c o l A j i d e w N-50 Water

0.3 0.15 0.1 2.0

0.5 0.1 0.2 5.0 5.0 t o make 1 0 0 . 0

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 8OC and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( A ) t o ( B ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Features: V e r y moi s t u r i z i ng and e m o l l ie n t t o u c h . F o r m u l a No. EW-3050

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A , ,

I n c . : Eldew CL-301 A p p l i c a t i o n s

356

Cosmetic and Toiletry formulations

S t e a r y l Alcohol F o r m u l a t i o n I n s r ed i_e-nrs. : A. Stearyl alcohol Arlamol ISML, i s o s o r b i d monolaurate B r i j 7 2 1 , POE ( 2 1 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 , PO€ ( 2 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B . Water Carbomer 934

C . Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % aqueous)

WL % 2.0 3.0 1. I 0.4

92.

a

0.2 0.2

D.

Preservative

0.1

E.

Fragrance

0.2

Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n : H e a t A t o 70C a n d B t o 72C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add C . Add D b e l o w 6 0 C . Add E b e l o w 40C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . A s i m i l a r e f f e c t o c c u r s when a r a t i o o f f o u r p a r t s c e t y l a l c o h o l i s u s e d w i t h o n e p a r t of A r l a m o l I S M L e m o l l i e n t as shown i n t h e f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a .

I ngr_e& e_nt s : A. C e t y l a l c o h o l A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d m o n o l a u r a t e B r i ] 7 2 1 , POE ( 2 1 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 , PO€ ( 2 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r

w t Oh 4.0 1.0 1.3 0.2

92.8 0.2

B.

Water Carbomer 9 3 4

C.

Sod1 urn h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0% a q u e o u s )

0.2

D.

Preservative

0.1

E.

Fragrance

0.2

Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n : H e a t A t o 70C a n d B t o 72C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add C . Add D b e l o w 6 0 C . Add E b e l o w 40C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t p H t o 5.5-6.5.

SOURCE: ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Miscellaneous

Washable Oil Inqredients: Arlamol S3 Brij 3 0 Arlatone T

%w/w

80.00

10.00 10.00

Procedure: Mix well at room temperature. Formula CP 1111 Washable Oil Inqredients: Arlamol E Atlas G73500

$w/w 50.00 50.00

Procedure: Mix well at room temperature. Fromula CP 1112 Washable Oil Inqredients: Arlamol S3 Isopropyl palmitate Brij 93 Brij 30 Water

%w/w 60.00 30.00 5.00 4.60 0.40

Procedure: Mix well at room temperature Formula CP 1115 Washable Oil Inqredients: A Arlamol E Atlas G73500 B Brij 3 0 C Dow Corning 344 cyclomethicone

%w/w

50.00 25.00 20.00 5.00

Procedure: Mix (B) well. Add (B) to (A) and mix well. Add (C) to (AB) and mix well. Formula CP 1116

SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations

357

Section Xlll Trade-Named Raw Materials

Trade-Named Raw Materials

359

R A W MATERIALS Abil AV-20

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Phenyl trimethicone

SOURCE Goldschmidt

Abil B8839

Cyclomethicone

Goldschmidt

Abil B8851

Dimethicone copolyol

Goldschmidt

Abil B8852

Dimethicone copolyol

Goldschmidt

Abil B9950

Dimethicone Propyl-BG Betaine

Goldschmidt

Abil B88183

Dimethicone copolyol

Goldschmidt

Abil EM-90

Cetyl dimethicone copolyol

Goldschmidt

Abil EM-97

Dimethicone copolyol (and) cyclomethicone

Goldschmidt

Abil OSW 12

Cyclomethicone & dimethicone

Abil Quat 3272

&

dimethiconol

3474 Quaternium-80

&

Goldschmidt Goldschmidt

Stearoxy dimethicone

Goldschmidt

Cetyl dimethicone

Goldschmidt

Abil Wax 9840

Cetyl dimethicone copolyol & polyglyceryl-4 isostearate & hexyl laurate

Goldschmidt

Abil WE 09

Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate & cetyl dimethicone copolyol & hexyl laurate

Goldschmidt

Abil 50

Dimethicone

Goldschmidt

Acetu1an

acetylated i Cetyl acetate € lanolin alcohol

Amer cho1

Acritamer 501E

Carbomer

RITA

Acritamer 940

Carbomer 940

RITA

Abil Wax 2434 Abil Wax 9801

&

9814

Actiphyte of Chamomile Botanical extract, "calming"

ActiveOrg

Actiphyte of Ivy

Botanical extract, "soothing"

ActiveOrg

Acylglutamate CA

Surfactant

Aj inomoto

360

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Abil AV-20

Phenyl trimethicone

Goldschmidt

Abil B8839

Cyclomethicone

Goldschmidt

Abil B8851

Dimethicone copolyol

Goldschmidt

Abil B8852

Dimethicone copolyol

Goldschmidt

Abil B9950

Dimethicone Propyl-BG Betaine

Goldschmidt

Abil B88183

Dimethicone copolyol

Goldschmidt

Abil EM-90

Cetyl dimethicone copolyol

Goldschmidt

Abil EM-97

Dimethicone copolyol (and) cyclomethicone

Goldschmidt

Abil OSW 12

Cyclomethicone & dimethiconol & dimethicone

Goldschmidt

Abil Quat 3272 & 3474 Quaternium-80

Goldschmidt

Abil Wax 2434

Stearoxy dimethicone

Goldschmidt

Abil Wax 9801 & 9814

Cetyl dimethicone

Goldschmidt

Abil Wax 9840

Cetyl dimethicone copolyol I polyglyceryl-4 isostearate & hexyl laurate

Goldschmidt

Abil WE 09

Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate & cetyl dimethicone copolyol & hexyl laurate

Goldschmidt

Abil 50

Dimethicone

Goldschmidt

Acetulan

Cetyl acetate & acetylated lanolin alcohol

Amerchol

Acritamer 501E

C arbomer

RITA

Acritamer 940

Carbomer 940

RITA

Actiphyte of Chamomile Botanical extract, “calming”

Act iveOrg

Actiphyte of Ivy

Botanical extract, “soothing”

Act iveOrg

Acylglutamate CA

Surfactant

Aj inomoto

Trade-Named Raw Materials

R A W MATERIALS

Ampholyt JB 130K

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Cocamidopropyl betaine

Antaron WP660

361

SOURCE Huls ISP

Antil 141L

Propylene glycol & PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate

Antil 171

PEG-18 glyceryl oleate/cocoate Goldschmidt

Arlacel 4 0

Sorbitan monopalmitate

ICI

Arlacel 60

Sorbitan monostearate

ICI

Arlacel 83

Sorbitan sesquioleate

ICI

Arlacel 165

Glyceryl stearate stearate

ICI

Arlamol E

PPG-15 stearyl ether

ICI

Arlamol HD

Isohexadecane

ICI

Arlamol M812

Emulsifying agent

ICI

Arlatone 980

PEG-35-hydrogenated castor oil

ICI

Arlatone 2121

Sunscreen agent

ICI

Arosurf 42-E6

Surfactant

Witco

Avanel S-30

Sodium C12-Cl5 pareth-3 sulfonate

PPG

Avanel S-35CG

Sodium octoxynol-2 ethane sulfonate

PPG

Avanel S-15OCGN

Sodium C12-15 pareth-15 sulfonate

PPG

Avanel S-150CG

Sodium C12-15 pareth-15 sulfonate

PPG

&

PEG-100

Goldschmidt

362

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

R A W MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Barley 1-3 Beta Glucam 70% Baysilon M350

SOURCE Keunen

Dimethicone

Bee's Milk

Keunen

Bell Fragrance #J-2820, "Sporty"

Be1 1

Benecel MP943PR

Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose

Aqualon

Bentone Gel VS-5/PC

Rheological agent

Rheox

Bentone Paste SIL

Cyclomethicone & stearalkonium Rheox hectorite & SD alcohol 40

Bentone 38

Rheological agent

Rheox

Bentonite NFBC Whittaker

Bermocel E481 Bienenwachs 8100

Cera alba

Henkel

Biocare Polymer BHA-10 Substantive hyaluronic acid

Biomatrix

Bio-Terge AS-40

Alpha olefin sulfonate

Stepan

Brij 72

Steareth-2

ICI

Brij 97

Oleth-10

ICI

Brij 721

Steareth-21

ICI

Brooksome EPO

Lecithin & evening primrose oil Brooks moisturizer

Butyl Cellosolve

Solvent

Candelilla Wax

Union Carb

Keunen

Capmul 10G-10-0

Polyglyceryl-10 decaoleate Dispersant/emulsifier

Karlshamms

Carbopol 934

Carbomer 934

BFGoodrich

Carbopol 940

Carbomer 940

BFGoodrich

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

363

SOURCE

Carbopol 941

Carbomer 941

BFGoodrich

Carbopol 954

Carbomer 954

BFGoodrich

Carbopol 980

Carbomer 980

BFGoodrich

Carbopol 981

Carbomer 981

BFGoodrich

Carbopol 1342

Carbomer 1342

BFGoodrich

Carbopol 2984

Carbomer 2984

BFGoodrich

Carbopol 5984

Carbomer 5984

BFGoodrich

Carbopol ETD 2001

Carbomer

BFGoodrich

Carbopol ETD 2020

Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. Preservative BFGoodrich

Carbopol Ultrez 10

Carbomer thickener

BFGoodrich

Carbowax E-800

PEG-150

Union Carb

Carbowax 600

PEG 600. Lubricant

Union Carb

Carnauba #1 Ye 1 ow

Keunen

Carnauba Wax

Keunen

Carson01 SLES-2

Sodium laureth sulfate

Cartaretin F-4

Diethylenetriamine copolymer

Castor oil

Ricinus communis

Cara Bellina

PG-3 beeswax

Keunen

Ceraphyl 230

Emollient

ISP/Van

Ceraphyl 424

Myristyl myristate emollient

ISP/Van

Cerasynt IP

Emulsifier

ISP/Van

Cerasynt SD

Glyceryl stearate emulsifier

ISP/Van

Clariant

Ceresine 130/135 Wax

Keunen

Ceresine 140/150 Wax

Keunen

364

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

R A W MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Cetiol

Oleyl oleate

Henkel

Cetiol B

Emollient esters

Henkel

Cetiol HE

PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate

Henkel

Cetiol 5600

Oleyl erucate

Henkel

Cetiol LC

Coco-caprylate/caprate

Henkel

Cetiol OE

Dicaprylyl ether

Henkel

Cetiol PGL

Emollient esters

Henkel

Cetiol SB 45

Shea butter

Henkel

Cetiol SN

Cetearyl isononanoate

Henkel

Cetiol V

Decyl oleate

Henkel

Cetiol 868

Octyl stearate emollient

Henkel

CO-1695

Cetyl alcohol

CO-1895

Stearyl alcohol

COCO Soap (85-15)

Tallow

Collapuron DAK

Desamidocollagen

Comperlan KD

Cocarnide DEA

Henkel Lip0

Completech MBAC-DS Controx KS Copherol F1250

Tocopheryl acetate

Henkel

Copherol F1300

Tocopherol

Henkel

Copherol 1250

Tocopherol

Henkel

Cosmedia Guar C-261

Guar gum

Henkel

Cosmedia Guar C-261N

Guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride

Henkel

Cosmedia Polymer HSP-1180

Henkel

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

365

SOURCE

Cosmetic Brown 3277/1985/1654 Cosmowax

Croda

Cremerol HMG

Hydroxylated milk glycerides

Amerchol

Cremophor HMG

PEG-35 castor oil

BASF

Crex

Sodium sesquicarbonate

Crodamol MM

Myristyl myristate

Croda

Crovol A/Crovol A-40

PEG-20 almond glycerides

Croda

Crovol PK-70

PEG-45 palm kernel glycerides

Croda

Cutina CP

Cetyl palmitate

CLRichter

Dow Dow Dow Dow

Corning Corning Corning Corning

200 Fluid Dimethicone

DowCorn

200 Fluid, 100 cs 200 Fluid, 350 cs 200 Fluid, 5000 cs

DC 344 Fluid

Cyclomethicone

DowCorn

DC 345 Fluid

Polydimethylcyclosiloxane

DowCorn

Degussa R812

Silica

Degussa

Dehymuls E

Mixed ester emulsifier

Henkel

Dehymuls PGPH

Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate

Henkel

Dehyton AB30

Coco-betaine

Henkel

Dehyton G

Disodium cocoamphodiacetate

Henkel

Dehyton K

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Henkel Keunen

Deodorized Orange Wax Deosafe Perfume 75428 N/I Dermacare MS SE DeSonic LFD-97

Glyceryl monostearate

RhonePoul Witco

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

366

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTIION

Witco

DeSonic 5N Diaformer Diaformer Diaformer Diaformer Diaformer Diaformer

Z-A & 2-AT Z-SM Z-W 2-301 2-400

Diahold A-503

Methacrylol ethyl betaine/ Methacrylates copolymer

Clari ant

AMP-Acrylates copolymer

C 1ar iant HoffmanLaRo

DL Panthenol D-

-

SOURCE

Tocopherol Acetate: Tocopheryl acetate

DNS Completech MBAC-EA

Lip0

Dowanol DPM

Solvent

Dow

Dow Corning 92-5324 Fluid

Dimethicone copolyol moisturizer/lubricant

DowCorn

Dow Corning 190

Dimethicone copolyol

DowCorn

&

EB

Dow Corning 556 Fluid Phenyl trimethicone Dow

Corning 3225 C Fluid

Dowicil 200 Drakeol 9

&

21

DowCorn DowCorn

Quaternium-15

Dow

Mineral oil

Penreco

"Drakkar" Type #Fl0091513 Fragrance

Haarman

Drivosol 35

Propane, isopropane, butane

Huls

Dynacerin 660

Oleyl erucate

Creanova

Eldew CL-301

Cholesteryl/behenyl/lactyldodecyl/lauroyl glutamate

A j inomoto

Elfacos C26

Hydroxyoctacosanyl/hydroxy-

Gallard-

stearate Elfacos E200

Methoxy PEG-22/Dodecyl glycol cop01ymer

Elfacos ST9

PEG-45/Dodecyl glycol copolymer Gallard-

Gallard-

Trade-Named Raw Materials

367

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Elfugin AKT liq 300

Sodium C13-15 pareth-8 butyl phosphate & sodium C13-15 pareth-9 phosphate

C lariant

Emalex CC-168

Cetyl octanoate

A j inomoto

Emalex GM-5

POE (5) glyceryl monostearate

A j inomoto

Emalex GWIS-310

PEG-10 glyceryl triisostearate

A j inomoto

Emalex GWIS-320

PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate A j inomoto

Emalex HC-5

POE (5) hydrogenated castor oil A j inomoto

SOURCE

Emalex OD-25 35

A j inomoto

Emalex O.T.G.

A j inomoto

Emalex STG-R

Hydrogenated coco-glycerides

A j inomoto

Emcol DG

Surfactant

Witco

Emcol 4100M

Surfactant

Witco

EmCon Limnathes Alba

Meadowfoam seed oil

Fanning

EmCon Tea Tree

Tea tree oil, active

Fanning

Emerest 2355

Ethylene glycol distearate

Henkel

Emersol 132

Triple pressed stearic acid

Henkel

Emersol 213

Low titer oleic acid ( A V : 203)

Henkel

Emersol 221

Oleic acid (acid value: 203)

Henkel

Emery 531

Fatty acid

Henkel

Emery 610

Soya fatty acid

Henkel

Emery 621

Coconut fatty acid (av: 263)

Henkel

Emulgade PL 68/50

Cetearyl glucoside & cetearyl alcohol

Henkel

Emulgade SE

Cream base w/o

Henkel

Emulgator E2155

Stearyl alcohol, steareth-7, steareth-10

Goldschmidt

368

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE Keunen

Emulsifying Wax NF Escalol 507

Octyl dimethyl PABA

Esi-Cry1 11

Styrene-acrylic copolymer

Eumulgin BZ

Ceteareth-20

Henkel

Eumulgin VL 75

Cosmetic emulsifier o/w

Henkel

Eumulgin 286

Cosmetic emulsifier o/w

Henkel

Euperlan PK-810

Pearlshine concentrate

Henkel

Euperlan PK 3000-AM

Glycol distearate, laureth-4, cocamidopropyl betaine

Henkel

Eusolex OCR

Octocrylene

RonaEM

Eusolex T-2000

Micron. titanium dioxide

RonaEM

Eusoflex 232

Phenylbezimidazole sulfonic acid RonaEM

Eusolex 6007

Octyl dimethyl PABA

RonaEM

Eusolex 6300

4-Methylbenzylidene

RonaEM

Eusolex 9020

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

RonaEM

Eutanol G

Octyldodecanol

Henkel

Extrapon Chamomile Special

ISP/Van

Dragoco

Finester EH-25

C12-15 octanoate

Finsolv EMG-20

Methyl gluceth-20 benzoate. Emollient

Finetex

Finsolv TN

C12-15 alcohols benzoate. Emo 11ient

Finetex

Flora 91-2008

Fragrance

Fragrance #A41073

Spicy floral fragrance

Fragrance #A42017

Fruity floral fragrance

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS Fragrance # 9918 9

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Tw iste r'I

Drom

Fragrance #5-7020, Sporty

Drom

Fruity Floral Scent NY-16 Fragrance

Novarone

"

369

G-2330 Gelita Sol C

Hydrolyzed collagen

Hoechst

Genagen CAB

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Hoechst

Genapol AMG

Magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate Hoechst

Genapol L-3

Laureth-3

Hoechst

Genapol LRO Liquid

Sodium laureth sulfate

Hoechst

Genapol PMS

Glycol distearate

Hoechst

Genapol 122N

Soya sterol

Henkel

Cosmetic preservative

ISP/Sutton

Germall 115

Imidazoldiinyl urea

ISP/Sutton

Gluadin WQ

Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein

Glucam E-10

Methyl gluceth-10

Amercho1

Glucam E-20

Methyl gluceth-20

Amer cho1

Glucam P-10

PPG-10 methyl glucose ether

Amerchol

Glucamate DOE-120

PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate Amerchol

Glucamate SSE-20

PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate

Amerchol

Glucate SS

Methyl glucose sesquistearate

Amerchol

Glucquat 125

Lauryl methyl gluceth-10 Amercho1 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride

Germaben I1

&

IIE

Glycerol Monostearate

Keunen

370

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS Fragrance # 9918 9

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION "

Twi ster "

SOURCE Drom

Fragrance #J-7820, Sporty

Drom

Fruity Floral Scent NY-16 Fragrance

Novarone

G-2330 Gelita Sol C

Hydrolyzed collagen

Hoechst

Genagen CAB

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Hoechst

Genapol AMG

Magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate Hoechst

Genapol L-3

Laureth-3

Hoechst

Genapol LRO Liquid

Sodium laureth sulfate

Hoechst

Genapol PMS

Glycol distearate

Hoechst

Genapol 122N

Soya sterol

Henkel

Cosmetic preservative

ISP/Sutton

Germall 115

Imidazoldiinyl urea

ISP/Sutton

Gluadin WQ

Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein

Glucam E-10

Methyl gluceth-10

Amer cho1

Glucam E-20

Methyl gluceth-20

Amer cho1

Glucam P-10

PPG-10 methyl glucose ether

Amer cho1

Glucamate DOE-120

PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate Amerchol

Glucamate SSE-20

PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate

Amerchol

Glucate SS

Methyl glucose sesquistearate

Amerchol

Glucquat 125

Lauryl methyl gluceth-10 Amerchol hydroxypropyldimonium chloride

Germaben I1

&

IIE

Glycerol Monostearate

Keunen

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS Hydrotriticum QM

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Hair conditioner

Hydroxy Polyester

371

SOURCE Croda Keunen

Hypan SA-100H

Hydrogel

Lip0

Hampene Na3T

Trisodium EDTA

Hampshire

Hylacure Hystar CG

Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate Lonza

Hystrene 5016

Stearic acid (triple pressed)

Witco

Imwitor 370

Glyceryl stearate citrate

Creanova

Imwitor 375

Glyceryl citrate/lactate/ linoleate/oleate

Creanova

Imwitor 380

Glyceryl cocoate/citrate/lactate Creanova

Imwitor 780K

Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate Creanova

Imwitor 900

Glyceryl stearate

Creanova

Imwitor 928

Glyceryl cocoate

Creanova

Imwitor 960K

Glyceryl stearate SE

Creanova

Incronam 30

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Croda

Insect Repellent 3535 Ethyl butyl acetylamino propionate

MGK

Isolan GI 34

Goldschmidt

Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate

Bell

59262 Fragrance Jaguar C13S

Guar gum

Jojoba Oil

Jojoba (buxus chinensis) oil

RhonePoul

372

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Jordapon ACI-30G

Ammonium cocoyl isethionate

PPG

Jordapon CI Powder

Sodium cocoyl isethionate

PPG

Jordapon CI-UP

Sodium cocoyl isethionate

PPG

Jordapon CI-60

Sodium cocoyl isethionate (and) stearic acid

PPG

Jordapon CI-75

Sodium cocoyl isethionate (and) steraic acid

PPG

Keunen

K80-D22 Karion F Liquid

Sorbitol solution (70%)

E .Merck

Kathon CG

Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone

Rohm&Haas

Kaydol

Mineral Oil USP

Witco

Kelco

Xanthan gum

Kelco

Keltrol

Xanthan gum

Ke 1co

Keltrol F

Xanthan gum

Kelco

Kelzan

Xanthan gum

Ke 1co

Kemester EGDS Kemester 99.7%

Glycerin

Kerasol

Soluble animal keratin

Croda

Kessco PEG-6000

PEG-150 distearate

Stepan

Kester Wax K-48

Spermaceti

Keunen

Kester Wax-62

Keunen

Kukui Nut Oil

Oils Aloha

Kydol

Paraffin oil

Witco

Kytamer PC

Chitosan PC

Amercho1

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Lactil

Sodium lactate glycine L . . . . .

Lameform TGI

Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate

Lamesoft PO 65

Coco-glucoside & glyceryl oleate

Henkel

Lamesoft PW 25

Cetyl palmitate & beheneth-10 & hydrogenated castor oil & glyceryl stearate

Henkel

&

sodium PCA

373

&

Goldschmidt

Lamesoft PW 45

Henkel

Lanapene

Lanaetex

Lanette 0

Cetearyl alcohol

Henkel Henke1

Lanette 18 Lanoquat 50 Lantrol AWS 1692

PPG-12 PEG-65 lanolin oil

Henkel

Lauramide DEA Lavender Fleurs 40/42 Lavender oil Lexein QX-300

Hydrolyzed animal protein

Inolex

Lexol IPM

Isopropyl myristate

Inolex

Lexol IPP

Isopropyl palmitate

Inolex

Lipamide MEAA (75%)

Acetamide MEA

L ipo

Lipocol C

Cetyl alcohol

Lip0

Lipocol L-4

Laureth-4

Lip0

Lip0 GMS-450

Glyceryl stearate

Lip0

Lipolan R

Lanolin oil

Lip0

Lipomulse 165

Glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate

Lip0

Liponate IPM

Isopropyl myristate

Lip0

374

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Liponate IPP

Isopropyl palmitate

1ip0

Liponate NPGC-2

Neopentylglycol dicaprylate/ dicaprate

1ip0

Liponate TDTM

Tridecyl trimellitate

11p0

Liponate 2-DH

PEG-4 diheptanoate

11p0

Liponic EG-1

Glycereth-26

11p0

Lipopeg 2-DL

PEG-4 dilaurate

11p0

Lipopeg 4-DL

PEG-8 dilaurate

11p0

Lipopeg 4-5

PEG-8 stearate

11p0

Lipopeg 6000-DS

PEG-150 distearate

11p0

LipoPearls

White beads w/ vitamin E

11p0

Liposilt Green

Silt

11p0

Lip0 Stearic Acid

11p0

Liposurf EST-30

Sodium laureth sulfate

11p0

Lipovol ALM

Sweet almond oil

11p0

Lipovol CO

Castor oil

11p0

Lipovol MOS-70

Natural vegetable oil

11p0

Lipovol MOS-130

Natural vegetable oil

11p0

Lipovol SES

Sesame oil

11p0

Lipowax P

Emulsifying wax, NF

11p0

Liquapar

Preservative

ISP/Sutton

Locron L

&

P

Aluminum chlorohydrate

Lonzaine C

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Lotion 4047

Fragrance

Lubragel MS

Lonza

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

375

SOURCE

Lunacera M

Mi crowax

HBFuller

Luviskol K90 Powder

PVP (100%). Hair setting agent

BASF

Luviskol VA-73W

PVP/VA copolymer (509,)

BASF

Luvitol EHO

Cetearyl octanoate

BASF

Oi lsAloha

Macademia Nut Oil Mackamide AME

Acetamide MEA. Humectant

Mc Intyre

Mackanate DC-30

Disodium dimethicone copolyol sulfosuccinate surfactant

McIntyre

Mackanate EL

Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate McIntyre secondary surfactant

Macol CA-30P

PPG-30 cetyl ether

PPG

Macol CSA-20

Ceteareth-20

PPG

Macol NP-9.5

Nonoxynol-9

PPG

Macol 57

PPG-10 butanediol

PPG

Macol 124

Cetearyl alcohol & ceteareth-20 PPG

Macol 159

PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate

PPG

Mafo CAB

Cocamidopropyl betaine

PPG

Mafo CSB-50

Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine

PPG

Magnabrite HV

Stabilizing, suspending agent

AMColloid

Maltrin M-100

Maltodextrin

GrainProces

Mandelo1

Almond oil

Mapeg EGMS

Glycol stearate

PPG

Mapeg 400 DO

PEG-8 dioleate

PPG

Mapeg 6 0 0 0 DS

PEG-150 distearate

PPG

Marindew PC-100

Partially deacetylated chitin

Ajinomoto

376

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Marlipal 1618/25

Ceteareth-25

Huls

Marlowet TA 6

Ceteareth-6

Huls

Marlowet TA 25

Ceteareth-25

Huls

Masil SF-V

Cyclomethicone

PPG

Masil SF-100

Dimethicone

PPG

Masil SF-756

Phenyl trimethicone

PPG

Masil SF-1000

Dimethicone

PPG

Mazamide JT-128

Cocamide DEA

PPG

Mazamide SS-10

Soyamide DEA

PPG

Mazamide 80

Cocamide DEA

PPG

Mazeen 174

PPG-4 ethylene diamine

PPG

Mazol EE-1

Benzyl laurate

PPG

Mazon 159

PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate

PPG

Mazox CAPA

Cocamidopropyl amine oxide

PPG

Mazox LDA

Lauramine oxide

PPG

Merquat Plus 3330

Polyquaternium-39. Hair conditioner

Calgon

Polyquaternium-7

Calgon

Merquat 550 Methocel A4M & E4M E4M Premium EP & KllOLV & 40-100

&

Hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose Dow

Microcrystalline Wax

Keunen

Miglyol Gel B

Caprylic/capric triglyceride stearalkonium hectorite & propylene carbonate

Miglyol 812

Caprylic/capric triglyceride

&

Creanova

Creanova

Trade-Named Raw Materials

377

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Miglyol 829

Caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride

Creanova

Miglyol 840

Propylene glycol dicaprylatel d icaprate

Creanova

Mineral Colloid BP

Montmorillonite

ECCAmerica PrideSolven

Minosil Miracare ZMCAS

Cocoamphodiacetate & sodium lauryl sulfate & sodium....

RhonePoul

Miranol Ultra

Cocoamphoacetate (32%). Surfactant

RhonePoul

Moisturizing Phytoamine Biocomplex

Comfrey extract & plaintain extract & hydrolyzed wheat protein & amino acids

AlbanMuller

Monafax MAP160

Phosphate ester

Mona

Monafax MAP230

Phosphate ester

Mona

Monalac MAB

Mona

Monalac ML

Mona

Monalac MO

Mona

Monalac MPL

Mona

Monamid CMA

Cocamide MEA

Mona

Monamid 716

Lauramide DEA

Mona

Monamuls 60-35C

Hydrogenated palm glycerides

Mona

Monamuls 90 L 12

Glyceryl laurate

Mona

Monamuls 90-018

Glyceryl oleate

Mona

Monaquat ISIES

Quaternary compound

Mona Mona

Monaquat SL-5 Monaquat TG

Quaternary phospholipid

Mona

378

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE

Monasil PCA

Mona

Monasil PDM

Mona

Monasil PLN

Mona

Monateric CAB

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Mona Mona

Monaterge 7 7 9 Monateric CAB-LC

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Mona Mona

Monateric CLV Monateric COAB

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Mona

Monateric LMAB

Lauramidopropyl betaine

Mona Mona

Monateric 9 4 9 5 Propylene glycol dicaprylate/ dicaprate

Myritol PC Myritol 312

&

318

Myritol 331 Myrj 5 2

& 52s

Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Henkel

Cocoglycerides

Henkel

PEG-40 Stearate

ICI

Water

Natipide I1

&

alcohol

&

lecithin

Natterman

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Aqualon

Natrosol Plus 330 CS

Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose

Aqualon

Neobee M-5

Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Stepan

Neodol 25-38

Sodium C12-15 pareth sulfate

Shell

Natrosol 250HHR 250HR

&

Neo Heliopan, Type AV Octyl methoxycinnamate

Haarman&

Neo Heliopan BB

Benzophenone-3 sunscreen

Haarman&

Neo Heliopan El000

Isoamyl p-methoxycinnmate

Haarman&

Trade-Named R A W MATERIALS

Raw Materials

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Neo Heliopan, Type 0 s Octyl salicylate sunscreen

Haarman&

Neutrol TE

BASF

Tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine

NF White Beeswax

Keunen Cationic guar

N-Hance 3000

Aqualon

Nikkol Lecinol S-10-M

Barnet

Nimlesterol D

Mineral oil

Nimlesterol 1732

Mineral oil

Ninol LMP

Alkanolamide

Stepan

Ninol 2012 Extra

Alkanolamide

Stepan

Novarome NC-46

&

379

Malmstrom &

lanolin alcohol

NC-48Fragrances

Henkel

Novarome

Novata AB

COCO glycerides

Nuosept C

Polymethoxy bicyclic oxazolidone Huls

Nutralin I

Collagen

Oil of Mink

AAA

Refined

Orange Wax

CLRichter

Henkel

Emulan Keunen

Orgasol 2002D

Nylon-12

Lip0

Oxynex K Liquid

PEG-8 & tocopherol & ascorbyl palmitate & ascorbic acid & citric acid

Zs chimmer

Oxynex LM

Antioxidant

Zschimmer

Oxynex 2004

Antioxidant

Zschimmer

Oxybenzone

Keunen

Oyster Nut Oil Ozokerite 158/160

&

160/164

&

170

Keunen

380

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Panacete 810

Vegetable oil

Panalene L-14E

Hydrogenated polyisobutene

Amoco

Paraffin Oil Liquid

Mineral oil

Merck

Paraffin Wax 130/135

Keunen

Paraffin Wax 160/165

Keunen

Parsol MCX

Octyl methoxycinnamate

Givaudan

Parsol 1789

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

Givaudan

Pationic CSL

Calcium stearoyl lactylate

RITA

Pationic ISL

Sodium isostearoyl lactylate

RITA

Pationic SBL

Sodium behenoyl lactylate

RITA

Pationic SCL

Sodium cocoyl lactylate

RITA

Pationic SSL

Sodium stearoyl lactylate

RITA

Patlac LA

Lactic acid

RITA

PEG-150 Distearate PEG-1450

UnionCarb

Pemulen TR-1

Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate BFGoodrich

Pemulen TR-2

Acrylates/ClO-30 alkyl acrylate BFGoodrich crosspolymer/Emulsifier

Peppermint (Mentha Piperita) Oil

Technology

Peppermint Oil, Refined

Technology

Perfecta

Petrolatum

Witco

Perfume A10003E

Fragrance

Perfume "Olivia" Perfume 72979 Perlatum 410CG

Petrolatum

S&S

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

381

SOURCE

Permethyl 104A

Aliphatic hydrocarbon

Presperse

Permulgin D

Emulsifying wax

Keunen

Permulgin 2550

Beeswax (Cera alba)

Keunen

Petro LBA Liquid

Witco

Petro BAF Liquid

Witco

Petro LBA Powder

Witco

Phenonip

Liquid preservative system

Nipa

Phospholipid EFA

Hair conditioner

Mona

Phospholipid PTC

&

SV Biomimetric phospholipid

Mona

Phytodermin

Soybean (glycine soya) protein

Plantacare K55

Lauryl glucoside propyl betaine

Plantacare PS 10

Sodium laureth sulfate lauryl glucoside

Plantacare 1200 UP

Lauryl glucoside

Plantaren PS-100

Surfactant

Henkel

Plantaren 1200

Lauryl glucoside

Henkel

Plantaren 2000

Decyl polyglucose (50%)

Henkel

Plantaren 2000 UP

Lauryl glucose

Henkel

&

cocamido&

"Polo Sport" Type #A11518 Fragrance

Haarman&

Polyethylene AC-9A

Allied

Polyethylene Glycol 400: PEG-8 Polyethylene Glycol 1500: PEG-30 Polymer JR-30M

Polyquaternium-10

UnionCarb

Polymer JR-125

Polyquaternium-10

UnionCarb

382

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

POlyOX WSR N-3000

PEG-14M

UnionCarb

Polyquta 400

Polyquaternium-10

RITA

Polysynlane

Hydrogenated polyisobutene

Polyesther

Pricerine 9083

Glycerin

Unichema

Prisorine 2021

Isopropyl isostearate

Uni chema

Prodew 100

Sorbitol/sodium lactate/proline/sodium PCA/hydrolyzed collagen

Aj inomoto

Prodew 200

Aj inomoto

Prodew 400

Aj inomoto

Product SE-100

Glyceryl stearate stearate

Promois Milk

Hydrolyzed casein

RITA

Promois Silk-1000

Hydrolyzed silk

RITA

Promulgen D

Cetearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20

Amercho1

&

PEG-100

Promulgen DD

Heterene

Amerchol

Promyristyl PM-3

PPG-3 myristyl ether

Croda

Propal

Isopropyl palmitate

Amercho1

Propanediol-1,2

Propylene glycol

Protasorb

Polysorbate 20. Lubricant

Protectan

Lactococcus ferment lysate

Pyroter CPI-40

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil PCA isostearate

Pyroter CPI-60 Pyroter GPI-25

Protameen

Aj inomoto Aj inomoto

Glycereth-25 PCA isostearate

Aj inomoto

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

383

SOURCE

Raffermine

Hydrolyzed soy flour

RITA

Reach AZP-902

Antiperspirant

Reheis

Reach AZP-908 SUF

Antiperspirant

Reheis

Reach 103

Antiperspirant

Reheis

Reductine

Oat protein

RITA

Rewopal PIB 1000

Polyisobutene

Witco

Rewoteric AM B-14

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Witco

Rewoteric AM B-15

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Witco

Rewoteric AM DML-35

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Witco

Rewoteric AM TEG

Witco

Rewoteric AM 2CW

Witco

Rhodapon L-22

Ammonium lauryl sulfate

RhonePoul

Rhodapon 201-10

Sodium laureth sulfate, 6 0 %

RhonePoul

Rhodigel

Xanthan gum

RTVanderbil

Rice Bran Oil

Keunen

Ri tabate-20

Polysorbate-20

RITA

Ritabate-60

Polysorbate-60

RITA

Rita CA

Cetyl alcohol

RITA

Rita Cetearyl Alcohol 50/50

RITA

Ritacetyl Alcohol

Cetearyl alcohol

RITA

Ritachol

Mineral oil

RITA

Rita EGMS

Glycol stearate

RITA

Rita GMS

Glyceryl stearate

RITA

Rita HA C-1-C

Sodium hyaluronate

RITA

&

lanolin alcohol

384

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Rita IPP

Isopropyl palmitate

RITA

Ri talan

Lanolin oil

RITA

Ritaloe 1X

Aloe Vera gel

RITA

Ritamide C

Cocamide DEA

RITA

Ritapan D

d-Panthenol

RITA

Ritapan DL

dL-Panthenol

RITA

Ritapeg 150 DS

PEG-150 distearate

RITA

Rita PEO-3

PEG-23M

RITA

Ri tap1ast

Mineral oil

Rita SA

Stearyl alcohol

RITA

Ritasil 190

Dimethicone copolyol

RITA

Rita SSO

Sunflower seed oil

RITA

Ri tataine

Cocamidopropyl betaine

RITA

Ritataine B

Cocamidopropyl betaine

RITA

Ritavena-5

Hydrolyzed oat flour

RITA

Ritawax ALA

Cetyl acetate & acetylated lanolin alcohol

RITA

Rovisome C

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate & lecithin

RITA

Sachtotec LA10

Zinc oxide

Sachtelben

Sandobet SC Liquid

Cocamido propyl hydroxysultaine Clariant

Sandobet DTC Acid

Trideceth-7 carboxylic acid

Clariant

Sandopan ES-50

Sodium myreth sulfate

C lariant

Sandopan KST-A Sol d

Sodium ceteth-13 carboxylate

Clariant

&

polyethylene

RITA

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

385

SOURCE

Sandopan LS-24 Gel

Sodium laureth-13 carboxylate

C 1ariant

Sandoxylate SX-424

PPG-2-isodeceth-12

C 1ar iant

Schercomid SLS

Soyamide DEA

C 1ar iant

Serdolamide PPF 67

Cocamide DEA

Huls

Setacin 103

Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate Zschimmer

Shebu Refined

Shea butter

Silicone 245 & 345 & 556 Siliconyl Beeswax

Dimethicone copolyol beeswax

Silkol P55

Mineral oil

RITA DowCorning Keunen

Silk Powder Silwax WS

Dimethicone copolyol wax

Siltech

S-Maz 20/S-Maz 60

Sorbitan stearate

PPG

Softigen I01

Glyceryl ricinoleate

Creanova

Softigen 761

PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides Creanova

Softisan Gel

Complex of chemicals

Creanova

Softisan 100

Hydrogenated coco-glycerides

Creanova

Softisan 318

Caprylic/capric/stearic triglyceride

Creanova

Softisan 601

Glyceryl cocoate/hydrogenated coconut oil/ceteareth-25

Creanova

Softisan 645

Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate- Creanova 2

Softisan 6 4 9

Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 Creanova Amerchol

Solulan C-24 Solulan 5

Laneth-5/ceteth-5/oleth-5/ steareth-5

h e r cho1

386

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS Solvent ID

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Isododecane

Sorbitol F Liquid Sorbo

Sorbitol solution

Spicy Floral Fragrance #A41073

ICI Haarman

Squa1ane Standamid KD

Cocamide DEA

Henkel

Standamid LD

Lauramide DEA

Henkel

Standapol A

Ammonium lauryl sulfate

Henkel

Standapol EA-1

Alkyl sulfate

Henkel

Standapol EA-2

Alkyl sulfate

Henkel

Standapol ES-2

Sodium laureth sulfate

Henkel

Standapol ES-3

Sodium laureth sulfate (30%)

Henkel

Standapol ES-50

Sodium myreth sulfate

Henkel

Standapol ES-250

Sodium laureth sulfate (53%)

Henkel

Standapol T

TEA lauryl sulfate (40%)

Henkel

Standapol WAQ-LC

Sodium lauryl sulfate (29%)

Henkel

Stepanol AM

Ammonium lauryl sulfate

Stepan

Stepanol WA-Extra

Sodium lauryl sulfate

Stepan

Stepanol WAT

TEA lauryl sulfate

Stepan

Super Hartolan

Lanolin alcohol

Croda

Standamox

Super Refined Apricot Kernel Oil

Croda

Supersat

Hydrogenated lanolin

RITA

Surfactol Q1

Hair conditioner

CasChem

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS Suttocide A

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Neutralizer/preservative

387

SOURCE Sutton

Synthetic Candelilla Wax

Keunen

Synthetic Carnauba

Wax

Keunen

Tagat L

PEG-20 glyceryl cocoate

Goldschmidt

Tagat S2

PEG-20 glyceryl stearate

Goldschmidt

Tagat TO

PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate

Goldschmidt

Talc Supra A

Premium talc

RITA

Teginacid H

Glyceryl stearate/ceteth-20

Goldschmidt

Tegin EGS

Glycol distearate

Goldschmidt

Tegin M

Glyceryl stearate

Goldschmidt

Tegin P

Organic emulsifier

Goldschmidt

Tego Alkanol 16

Cetyl alcohol

Goldschmidt

Tego Alkanol 18

Stearyl alcohol

Goldschmidt

Tego Betaine 810

Caprylamido/capramidopropyl

Goldschmidt

betaine Tego Betaine E

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Goldschmidt

Tego Betaine F

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Goldschmidt

Tego Betaine F50

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Goldschmidt

Tego Betaine L-7

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Goldschmidt

Tego Care 215

Ceteareth-l5/Glycery1 stearate Goldschmidt

Tego Care 450

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate

Goldschmidt

Tego Deo HY 77

Zinc ricinoleate/triethanolamine/dipropylene glycol/ lactic acid

Goldschmidt

388

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Tego Glucoside 1216

Lauryl glucoside

Goldschmidt

Tego Pearl NlOO

Glycol distearate/steareth-4

Goldschmidt

Tegosoft CI

Cetearyl isononanoate

Goldschmidt

Tegosoft CO

Cetyl octanoate

Goldschmidt

Tegosoft CT

Caprylic/capric triglycerides

Goldschmidt

Tegosoft DO

Decyl oleate

Goldschmidt

Tegosoft GC

PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate

Goldschmidt

Tegosoft GMC 6

PEG-6 caprylic/capric glyceride Goldschmidt

Tegosoft Liquid

Cetearyl octanoate

Goldschmidt

Tegosoft LSE 65K

Sucrose cocoate

Goldschmidt

Tegosoft M

Isopropyl myristate

Goldschmidt

Tegosoft OP

Octyl palmitate

Goldschmidt

Tegosoft 0s

Octyl stearate

Goldschmidt

Tegosoft P

Isopropyl palmitate

Goldschmidt

Tegosoft SH

Stearyl heptanoate

Goldschmidt

Tenox 6

Antioxidant

Eastman

Tensine

Wheat protein

Henkel

Texapon A

Ammonium lauryl sulfate

Henkel

Texapon NA

Ammonium laureth sulfate

Henkel

Texapon NSO

Sodium laureth sulfate

Henkel

Texapon SB-3

Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate Henkel

Texapon SG

Sodium laureth sulfate/cocamide Henkel MEA/glycol distearate

Texapon WW 99

MIPA laureth sulfate/cocamide DEA

Henkel

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

389

SOURCE

Th iosome Timica

Mica and titanium dioxide

Mearl

Timiron MP-149

Mica and titanium dioxide

Rona

Timiron MP-1001 Supersheen

Mica and titanium dioxide

Rona

Timiron Silk Red

Mica and titanium dioxide

Rona

Tioveil OP

Octyl palmitate and titanium dioxide

Tioxide

Ti tanox

Titanium dioxide

T-Maz 20

Polysorbate 20

PPG

T-Maz 28

PEG-80 sorbitan laurate

PPG

T-Maz 60

Polysorbate 60

PPG

T-Maz 80

Polysorbate 80

PPG

Transcutol

Specialty solvent

Gattefosse

Traubeukernol

Vitis vinifera

Tri closan Tris(hydroxymethy1)-aminomethane

Tritiplex I11

Disodium EDTA

Tween 20

Polysorbate 20 lubricant

ICI

Tween 60

Polysorbate 60

ICI

Tween 85

Polysorbate 8 5

ICI

Tylose Tylose Tylose tylose

Hydroxyethyl cellulose

Hoechst

H 4000P H 100,OOOYP H20 YP 100,000

390

Cosmetic and Toiletry Fofmu/ations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Ucare Polymer JR-30M

Polyquaternium-10

Ame r cho1

Ucare Polymer JR-125

Polyquaternium-10

Amer chol

Ucare Polymer JR-400

Polyquaternium-10

Amercho1

Ucare Polymer LK

Polyquaternium-10

Amer chol UnionCarb

Ucon Fluid AP Ucon 50-HB-660

PPG-12-Buteth-16

UnionCarb

Ultra Lantrol HP 2074 Lanolin oil Ultrapure L

White petrolatum USP

Ultra

Unicide U-13

Imidazolidinyl urea

Lip0

Uniphen P-23

Phenoxyethanol/methylparaben/ ethylparaben/propylparaben/ butylparaben

Lip0

Uvinul M-40

Oxybenzone sunscreen

BASF

Uvinul MS-40

Benzophenone-4. UV absorber

BASF

Vanc 1ay

Kaolin

Vanderbilt

Vanseal NALS-30

Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate

Vanderbilt

Varamide A-83

Witco

Varamide MA-1

Witco

Varamide ML-1

Witco

Variquat 50MC

Witco

Varonic K202

Nonionic wetting agent

Witco

Varonic K215

Wetting agent

Witco

Varonic LI-48/LI-63/ Wetting agents LI-67/LI-420 Varonic T202 SR

Wetting agent

Witco Witco

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

39 1

SOURCE

Varox 185E

Witco

Varox 365

Witco

Varox 1770

Witco

Varsulf SBFA-30 Veegum

Magnesium aluminum silicate

Vanderbilt

Veegum F

Magnesium aluminum silicate

Vanderbilt

Veegum HS

Magnesium aluminum silicate

Vanderbilt

Veegum HV

Magnesium aluminum silicate

Vanderbilt

Veegum R

Magnesium aluminum silicate

Vanderbilt

Veegum Ultra

Magnesium aluminum silicate

Vanderbilt

Velsan D8P-3

Isopropyl PPG-2 isodeceth-7 carboxylate

C 1ar iant

Velsan D8P-16

Cetyl PPG-2 isodeceth-7 carboxylate

C 1ariant

Velsan P8-3 Liquid

Isopropyl C12-15 Pareth-9-carb- Clariant oxylate

Velvetex BK-35

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Versene NA

Disodium EDTA. Chelating agent. Dow

Versene 100

Tetrasodium EDTA chelating agent

Vitamin-A-Palmitate

Retinyl palmitate

Vitamin E Acetate

Tocopheryl acetate

BASF

V0lpo-10

Oleth-10 solubilizer

Croda

Henkel

Dow

392

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Wacker-Belsil CM020

Cyclomethicone

Wacker

Wacker-Belsil CM040

Cyclomethicone

Wacker

Wacker-Belsil CMlOOO

Cyclomethicone, dimethiconol

Wacker

Wacker-Belsil DMlOO

Dimethicone

Wacker

Wacker-Belsil DM350

Dimethicone

Wacker

Wacker-Belsil DMC6032 Dimethicone copolyol

Wacker

Wacker-Belsil DMC6038 Dimethicone copolyol

Wacker

Wacker-Belsil PDM020

Wacker

Phenyl trimethicone

Wacker-Belsil SDM6022 Stearoxy dimethicone, dimethi cone

Wacker

Wacker-Belsil SM6018

Stearyl methicone

Wacker

Witcamide CDA

Alkanolamide

Witco

Witcamide S-780

Alkanolamide

Witco

Witcamide 128T

Alkanolamide

Witco

Witcamide 511

Alkanolamide surfactant

Witco

Witcamide 6445

Alkanolamide surfactant

Witco Witco

Witco 1298 Soft Acid Witcolate ES-2

Surfactant

Witco

Witcolate LES-60A

Surfactant

Witco

Witcolate SE-5

Surfactant

Witco

Witcolate WAC-LA

Surfactant

Witco

Witconate AOS

Surfactant

Witco

Witconate AOS-PC

Surfactant

Witco

Witconate SXS Liquid

Surfactant

Witco

Witconate 30DS

Surfactant

Witco

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

393

SOURCE

Witconate 7 9 s

Surfactant

Witco

Witconate 93s

Surfactant

Witco

Witconate 1260 Slurry Surfactant

Witco

Witconol EGMS

Witco

Witconol NP-120

Nonionic surfactant

Witco

Witconol 14

Polyglyceryl-4 oleate nonionic

Witco

Zinc Omadine FPS

Zinc pyrithione (48%)

01 in

Zincum N29

Zinc stearate

Henkel

102 Magnabrite HV

Stabilizing, suspending agent

AmerColloid

99411 Fruit Blend

Fragrance

Drom

Section XIV Suppliers' Addresses

394

Suppliers' Addresses

Active Organics Inc. 11230 Grader St. Dallas, TX 75238

Amoco Chemical Co. 200 E. Randolph Dr. Chicago, IL 60601

(214)-348-2015/(800)-541-1478

(312)-856-3200/(800)-621-4567

Agrashell Inc. 5934 Keystone Dr. Bath, PA 18014 (215)-837-6705

Angus Chemical Co. 1500 E. Lake Cook Rd. Buffalo Grove, IL 60089

Ajinomoto USA Inc. Glenpoint Ctr. W 500 Frank W. Burr Blvd. Teaneck, NJ 07645 (201)-907-3244

Aqualon 1313 N. Market St. Wilmington, DE 19899

Akzo Chemicals Inc. 300 South Riverside Plaza Chicago, IL 60606 (312)-906-7500 Alban Muller International Tri-K Industries 27 Bland St. Emerson, NJ 07630 (201)-261-2800/(800)-5~6-0372

Albright & Wilson Americas P.Q. Box 26229 Richmond, VA 23260 (804)-550-4300/(800)-446-3700

Allied Signal Inc. P.Q. Box 2332R Morristown, NJ 07962 (201)-455-2000 Amerchol Corp. P.O. Box 4051 136 Talmadge Rd. Edison, NJ 08818 (908)-248-6000 American Colloid Co. Hwy 212W Belle Fourche, SD 57717 (605)-892-2591

395

(708)-215-8600/(800)-323-6209

(302)-594-5000/(800)-345-8104

Atochem North America 900 Milk St. Cartaret, NJ 07008 (908)-541-4414 Barnet Products Corp. 560 Sylvan Ave. Englewood Cliffs, NJ 07632 (201)-569-6622 BASF Corp. 100 Cherry Hill Rd. Parsippany, NJ 07054 (201)-316-3000/(800)-526-1072

Bell Flavors & Fragrances Inc. 500 Acadamy Dr. Northbrook, IL 60062 (312)-291-8300/(800)-323-4387

Bernel Chemical Co. Inc. 174 Grand Ave. Englewood, NJ 07631 (201)-569-8934 Biomatrix Inc. 65 Railroad Ave. Ridgefield, NJ 07657 (201)-945-9550 BK-Ladenburg Corp. 50 Spring St. Cresskill, NJ 07626 (201)-567-9100/(800)-526-2688

396

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Brooks Industries Inc. 70 Tyler Place South Plainfield, NJ 07080 (908)-561-5200

Croda Inc. 7 Century Drive Parsippany, NJ 07054 (201)-644-4900

Calgon Corp. P.O. Box 1346 Pittsburgh, PA 15230 (412)-777-8000

Degussa Corp. 65 Challenger Rd. Ridgefield Park, NJ 07660 (201)-641-6100

Capital City Products Co. 525 W. First Ave. Columbus, OH 43216

Dow Chemical USA 2 0 2 0 Dow Center Midland, MI 49674 (800)-258-CHEM

(614)-299-3131/(800)-848-1340

(201)-858-7900/(800)-CAS-CHEM

Dow Corning Corp. Box 0994 Midland, MI 48686 (517)-496-4000

Centerchem Inc. 225 High Ridge Rd. Stamford, CT 06905 (203)-975-9800

Dragoco Inc. 10 Gordon Drive Totowa, NJ 07512 (201)-256-3850

Ciba-Geigy Corp. 410 Swing Rd. Greensboro, NC 27419

Drom International Inc. 5 Jacksonville Rd. P.O. Box 5 Towaco, NJ 07082 (201)-316-8400

CasChem Inc. 40 Avenue A Bayonne, NJ 07002

(919)-632-7327/(800)-221-0453

Clariant Corp. 4000 Monroe Road Charlotte, NC 28205 (704)-331-7000 Colorcon Inc. Moyer Blvd. West Point, PA 19486 (215)-699-7733

DuPont Co. 1007 Market St. Wilmington, DE 19898 (800)-441-7515 Eastman Chemical Co. P.O. Box 431 Kingsport, TN 37662 (615)-229-4006/(800)-EASTMAN

A & E Connock Ltd. Fordingsbridge, Hunts, UK Creanova Inc. 2 2 0 Davidson Ave. Somerset, NJ 08873 (732)-560-6800

ECC America 5775 Peachtree-Dunwoody Rd. Atlanta, GA 30342 (800)-843-3222 Emulan Inc. P.O. Box 582 Kenosha, WI 53141 (414)-654-0734

Suppliers’ Addresses

Fanning Corp. 2450 W. Hubbard St. Chicago, IL 60612 (312)-563-1234

BF Goodrich Co. 9911 Brecksville Rd. Cleveland, OH 44141

Finetex Inc. 418 Falmouth Ave. Elmwood Park, NJ 07407 (201)-797-4686

Grain Processing Corp. 1600 Oregon St. Muscatine, IA 52761 (319)-264-4265

FloraTech 2295 S. Coconino Dr. Apache Junction, A 2 85220 (602)-983-7909

Haarman & Reimer Corp. 60 Diamond Rd. Springfield, NJ 07091

Florida Food Products Inc. 2231 W Hwy 44 Eustis, FL 32726 (904)-357-4141

Hampshire Chemical Co. 55 Hayden Ave. Lexington, MA 02173 (617)-861-6600

H.B. Fuller Co. 3530 N. Lexington Ave. St. Paul, MN 55126

Henkel Corp. 11501 Northlake Drive Cincinnati, OH 45299

(612)-481-1588/(800)-468-6358

(513)-530-7300/(800)-543-7370

(216)-447-5000/(800)-331-1144

(201)-912-5707/(800)-432-1559

Gallard-Schlesinger Industries Hoechst Celanese Corp. 584 Mineola Ave. 3340 W. Norfolk Rd. Carle Place, NY 11514 Portsmouth, VA 23703 (516)-333-5600 (800)-483-7530/(800)-526-4960 Gattefosse Corp. 189 Kinderkamack Rd. Westwood, NJ 07675 (201)-573-1700

Hoffman-LaRoche Inc. 340 Kingsland St. Nutley, NJ 07110

GE Silicones 260 Hudson River Rd. Waterford, NY 12188 (518)-237-3330/(800)-255-8886

Hormel P.O. Box 800 Austin, MN 55912 (507)-437-5676

Givaudan-Roure Corp. 100 Delawanna Ave. Clifton, NJ 07015 (201)-365-8000

J.M. Huber Corp. Thornall St. Edison, NJ 08837 (201)-549-8600

Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. 914 E. Randolph Rd. Hopewell, VA 23860

Huls America Inc. 80 Centennial Dr. Piscataway, NJ 08854

(804)-541-8658/(800)-445-1809

(908)-980-6946/(800)-526-0339

(201)-235-8080/(800)-526-0189

397

398

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hydrolabs Inc. 27 E 33 St. Paterson, NJ 07514 (201)-345-5100

Lip0 Chemicals Inc. 207 19th Ave. Paterson, NJ 07504 (201)-345-8600

ICI Americas Inc. Concord Pike & New Murphy Rd. Wilmington, DE 19897

Lonza Inc. 17-17 Rte. 208 Fair Lawn, NJ 07410

(302)-575-3034/(800)-822-8215

(201)-794-2400/(800)-777-1875

Inolex Chemical Co. Jackson 61 Swanson Sts. Philadelphia, PA 19148 (215)-271-0800/(800)-521-9891

McIntyre Group Ltd. 1000 Governors Hwy University Park, IL 60466 (708)-534-6200

ISP: International Specialty Products 1361 Alps Rd. Wayne, NJ 07470

Mearl Corp. 41 E 42nd St. New York, NY 10017 (212)-573-8500

(201)-628-3000/(800)-848-7659

Karlshamns USA Inc. 501 W. First Ave. P.O. Box 569 Columbus, OH 43201 (614)-299-3131 Kelco Div. Merck & Co. Inc. 8355 Aero Drive San Diego, CA 92123 (619)-292-4900/(800)-535-2656

E. Merck Darmstadt, Germany Mona Industries Inc. 76 E 24 St. P.O. Box 425 Paterson, N3 07544 (201)-345-8220 Morflex Inc. 2110 High Point Rd. Greensboro, NC 27403 (919)-292-1791

Kemira Inc. 1170 Rte 22E P.O. Box 6784 Bridgewater, NJ 08807

National Starch & Chemical Co 10 Finderne Ave. Bridgewater, NJ 08807

(201)-526-4644/(800)-4-KEMIRA

(908)-685-5000/(800)-532-1115

Koster-Keunen Inc. P.Q. Box 447 90 Bourne Blvd. Sayville, NY 11782 (516)-589-0456

Natterman Phospholipid GmbH Nattermannallee 1, Cologne D-50829, Germany 221-509-2239

Lanaetex Products Inc. 151 3 Ave. Elizabeth, N3 07206 (908)-351-9700

Suppliers' Addresses

Nipa Laboratories Inc. 104 Hagley Bldg. Concord Plaza 3411 Silverside Rd. Wilmington, DE 19810 (302)-478-1522 Novarome Inc. 30 Stewart Place Fairfield, NJ 07004 (201)-575-4550 Oils of Aloha P.O. Box 685 66-935 Kaukonahua Rd. Waialua, Hawaii 96791 (800)-367-6010 Olin Corp. 120 Long Ridge Rd. P.O. Box 1355 Stamford, CT 06904 (203)-356-2000/(800)-243-9171

Original Bradford Soap Works 200 Providence St. West Warwick, RI 02893 (401)-821-2141 Penreco 138 Petrolia St. Karns City, PA 16041 (412)-283-5600/(800)-245-3952

Pentapharm Ltd. Engelgasse 109, P.O. Box Basel, Switzerland Petrolite Corp. 6910 E 14 St. Tulsa, OK 74112 (918)-836-1601 Phillips 66 Co. 376 Phillips Bldg. Annex Bartlesville, OK 74004 (806)-274-5236/(800)-858-4327

399

Phoenix Chemical Co., Inc. 322 Courtyard Drive Somerville, NJ 08876 (908)-707-0232 Pilot Chemical Co. 11756 Burke St. Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670 (213)-723-0036 Polyesther Corp. 61 Hill St. P.O. Drawer 5076 Southampton, NY 11969 (516)-283-4400 PPG Industries 3938 Porett Drive Gurnee, IL 60031 (708)-244-3410/(800)-CHEM-PPG

Presperse Inc. 601 Hadley Rd. P.O. Box 735 South Plainfield, NJ 07080 (908)-756-2023 Proctor 9 Gamble Chemicals Div P.O. Box 599 Cincinnati, OH 45201 (513)-983-5607/(800)-543-1580

Protameen Chemicals Inc. 375 Minnisink Rd. Totowa, NJ 07511 (201)-256-4374 Quest International Fragrances 400 International Drive Mount Olive, NJ 07828 (201)-691-7100 Reheis Inc. 235 Snyder Ave. Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922 (908)-464-1500

400

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Rheox Inc. Wyckoff Mills Rd. Hightstown, NJ 08520 (609)-443-2320

S&S Chemical Co. 333 Jericho Tpke Jericho, NY 11753 (516)-931-3333

Rhone-Poulenc Inc. Prospect Mains Rd. Cranbury, NJ 08512 (609)-860-4000

Stepan Co. 22 W. Frontage Rd. Northfield, IL 60093 (708)-446-7500

Dr. K. Richter GmbH Chemisches Laboratorium Bennigonstrabe 25, D-1000 Berlin

Sun Chemical Corp. 411 Summit Ave. Cincinnati, OH 45232

R.I.T.A. Corp. 1725 Kilkenny Woodstock, IL 60098

Sutton Laboratories Inc. 116 Summit Ave. Cincinnati, OH 45232

(815)-337-2500/(800)-426-7759

(513)-681-5950/(800)-343-2583

Roche Chemical Division Hoffman-LaRoche Inc. Nutley, NJ 07110 (201)-235-8077/(800)-526-0189

Technology Flavors & Fragrances 10 Edison St. E Amityville, NY 11701 (516)-842-7600

Rohm & Haas Co. Independence Mall West Philadelphia, PA 19105 (215)-592-3000

Terry Laboratories Inc. 390 N. Wickham Rd. P.O. Box 566 Melbourne, FL 32935

(513)-681-5950/(800)-343-2583

(407)-259-1630/(800)-367-2563

Rona/EM Industries 5 Skyline Dr. Hawthorne, NY 10532 (914)-592-4660 Frank B. Ross Co. Inc P.O. Box 4085 Jersey City, NJ 07304 (201)-433-4512

3V Inc. 1500 Harbor Blvd. Weehawken, NJ 07087 (201)-865-3600 Tioxide Specialties Ltd. Billingham, Cleveland TS23 1PS United Kingdom 0642-370300

Scher Chemicals Inc. Industrial w cor Styertowne Rd. Tri-K Industries Inc. Clifton, NJ 07012 P.O. Box 312 (201)-471-1300 27 Bland St. Emerson, NJ 07630 Shell Chemical Co. (201)-261-2800/(800)-526-0372 P.O. Box 2463 Houston, TX 77002 (713)-241-6161

Suppliers' Addresses

Trivent Chemical Co. 45 Ridge Rd. P . O . Box 5 9 7 South River, NJ 0 8 8 8 2

401

Wacker Silicones Corp. 3 3 0 1 Sutton Rd. Adrian, MI 4 9 2 2 1 (517)-264-8500/(800)-248-0063

(908)-251-1116

Ultra Chemical Inc. 130 Maple Ave. Red Bank, NJ 0 7 7 0 1

Whittaker, Clark & Daniels 1 0 0 0 Coolidge St. South Plainfield, NJ 0 7 0 8 0 (908)-561-6100

(908)-224-0200

Unichema North America 4 6 5 0 S. Racine Ave. Chicago, IL 6 0 6 0 9 (312)-376-9000/(800)-833-2864

Union Carbide Chemicals and Plastics 3 9 Old Ridgebury Rd. Danbury, CT 0 6 8 1 7 (203)-794-5300

Witco Corp. (All Groups) 1) Oleo Surfactants 2 ) Petroleum Specialties Group 3 ) Polymer Addistives Group 5 2 0 Madison Ave. New York, NY 10022 (212)-605-3000

Witco Corp. 5 7 7 7 Frantz Rd.-P.O. Box 6 4 6 Dublin, OH 4 3 0 1 7 (614)-765-6500/(800)-366-6500

R.T. Vanderbilt Co. Inc. 3 0 Winfield St. P.O. Box 5 1 5 0 Norwalk, CT 0 6 8 5 6 (203)-853-1400

Van Dyk Main & William Sts. Belleville, NJ 0 7 1 0 9 (201)-450-3264

Vista Chemical Co. 9 0 0 Threadneedle Houston, TX 7 7 0 7 9 (713)-588-3000

Zschimmer & Schwarz P.O. Box 2 1 7 9 D - 5 4 2 0 Lahnstein, West Germany

This page intentionally left blank