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P O R T A B L E

Maui 3rd Edition

by Jeanette Foster

Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine

P O R T A B L E

Maui 3rd Edition

by Jeanette Foster

Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine

WILEY PUBLISHING, INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 646-8700. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, (317) 572-3447, fax (317) 572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-3879-9 ISSN 1524-4318 Editor: Christine Ryan Production Editor: Donna Wright Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cartographer: John Decamillis Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993 or fax 317-572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5

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Contents 1

List of Maps

v

Maui, the Valley Isle

1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

2

The Island in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Maui Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Money-Saving Package Deals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Hawaii on the Web . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Fast Facts: Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

For International Visitors

28

1 Preparing for Your Trip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 2 Getting to & Around the United States . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Fast Facts: For International Visitors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

3

Where to Stay 1 2 3 4 5 6

4

38

Central Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 West Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 South Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Upcountry Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 East Maui: On the Road to Hana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 At the End of the Road in East Maui: Hana . . . . . . . . . . . . .73

Where to Dine

78

1 Central Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 2 West Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82

3 South Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 4 Upcountry Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99 5 East Maui: On the Road to Hana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103

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Fun in the Surf & Sun 1 2 3 4 5

6

7

129

Central Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129 Lahaina & West Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132 South Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137 House of the Sun: Haleakala National Park . . . . . . . . . . . .139 More in Upcountry Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142 East Maui & Heavenly Hana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143

Shops & Galleries 1 2 3 4 5

8

Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Watersports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112 Hiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Great Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 Biking, Horseback Riding & Tennis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126

Seeing the Sights 1 2 3 4 5 6

108

154

Central Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154 West Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158 South Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164 Upcountry Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .166 East Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169

Maui After Dark

171

1 West Maui: Lahaina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171 It Begins with Sunset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172 2 Upcountry Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .174 Index

175

General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175 Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179

List of Maps Maui 2 Lahaina & Kaanapali Accommodations & Attractions 41 Accommodations & Dining from Honokowai to Kapalua 49

South Maui Accommodations & Dining 57 Lahaina & Kaanapali Dining 83 Lahaina 134 The Road to Hana 144 Hana 149

ABOUT THE AUTHOR A resident of the Big Island, Jeanette Foster has skied the slopes of Mauna Kea—during a Fourth of July ski meet, no less—and gone scuba diving with manta rays off the Kona Coast. A prolific writer widely published in travel, sports, and adventure magazines, she’s also a contributing editor to Hawaii magazine and the editor of Zagat’s Survey to Hawaii’s Top Restaurants. In addition to this guide, Jeanette is the author of Frommer’s Hawaii, Frommer’s Maui, Frommer’s Honolulu, Waikiki & Oahu, and Frommer’s Hawaii from $80 a Day.

AN INVITATION TO THE READER In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Portable Maui, 3rd Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030

AN ADDITIONAL NOTE Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time— and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS, ICONS & ABBREVIATIONS Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds

Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Fact

Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

Kids

Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

Moments

Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated

Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips

Insider tips—some great ways to save time and money

Value

Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

V Visa

FROMMERS.COM Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • • • •

Online updates to our most popular guidebooks Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions

1 Maui, the Valley Isle aui, also called the Valley Isle, is just a small dot in the vast M Pacific Ocean, but it has the potential to offer visitors unforgettable experiences: floating weightless through rainbows of tropical fish, standing atop a 10,000-foot volcano watching the sun come up, listening to the raindrops in a bamboo forest. Whether you want to experience the “real” Hawaii, go on a heartpounding adventure, or simply relax on the beach, this book is designed to help you create the vacation of your dreams. In the pages that follow, we’ve compiled everything you need to know to plan your ideal trip to Maui: information on airlines, seasons, a calendar of events, how to make camping reservations, and much more.

1 The Island in Brief CENTRAL MAUI Maui’s main airport lies in this flat, often windy corridor between Maui’s two volcanoes, and this is where the majority of the island’s population lives. You’ll find good shopping and dining bargains here, but very little in the way of accommodations. KAHULUI This is “Dream City,” home to thousands of former sugar cane workers who dreamed of owning their own homes away from the plantations. A couple of small hotels located just 2 miles from the airport are convenient for 1-night stays if you have a late arrival or early departure, but this is not a place to spend your vacation. WAILUKU With its faded wooden storefronts, old plantation homes, and shops straight out of the 1940s, Wailuku is like a time capsule. Although most people race through on their way to see the natural beauty of Iao Valley , this quaint little town is worth a brief visit, if only to see a real place where real people actually appear to be working at something other than a suntan. Beaches surrounding Wailuku are not great for swimming, but the old town has a spectacular view of Haleakala, a couple of hostels and an excellent

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C H A P T E R 1 . M AU I , T H E VA L L E Y I S L E

historic B&B, great budget restaurants, a tofu factory, some interesting bungalow architecture, a Frank Lloyd Wright building on the outskirts of town, and the always-endearing Bailey House Museum.

WEST MAUI This is the fabled Maui you see on postcards. Jagged peaks, green valleys, a wilderness full of native species—the majestic West Maui Mountains are the epitome of earthly paradise. The beaches here are some of the islands’ best. And it’s no secret: This stretch of coastline along Maui’s “forehead,” from Kapalua to the historic port of Lahaina, is the island’s most bustling resort area. Expect a few mainland-style traffic jams. Starting at the southern end of West Maui and moving northward, the coastal communities are as listed below. LAHAINA This old whaling seaport teems with restaurants, T-shirt shops, and a gallery on nearly every block, but there’s still lots of real history to be found amid the tourist development. The town is a great base for visitors: A few old hotels (like the newly restored 1901 Pioneer Inn on the harbor), quaint B&Bs, and a handful of oceanfront condos offer a variety of choices, most within walking distance to the beach as well as town. This is the place to stay if you want to be in the center of things—oodles of restaurants, shops, and nightlife—but note that the town is rather congested and doesn’t have enough parking. KAANAPALI Farther north along the West Maui coast is Hawaii’s first master-planned resort. Pricey midrise hotels, which line nearly 3 miles of lovely gold-sand beach, are linked by a landscaped parkway and separated by a jungle of plants. Golf greens wrap around the slope between beachfront and hillside properties. Whalers Village (a seaside mall with such fancy names as Tiffany and Louis Vuitton, plus the best little whale museum in Hawaii) and other restaurants are easy to reach on foot along the waterfront walkway or via resort shuttle, which also serves the small West Maui airport just to the north. Shuttles also go to Lahaina, 3 miles to the south, for shopping, dining, entertainment, and boat tours. Kaanapali is popular with convention groups and families. FROM HONOKOWAI TO NAPILI In the building binge of the 1970s, condominiums sprouted along this gorgeous coastline like mushrooms after a rain. Today, these older ocean-side units offer excellent bargains. The great location—along sandy beaches, within minutes of both the Kapalua and the Kaanapali resort areas,

THE ISLAND IN BRIEF

5

and close to the goings-on in Lahaina town—makes this area a great place to stay for value-conscious travelers. It feels more peaceful and residential than either Kaanapali or Lahaina. In Honokowai and Mahinahina, you’ll find mostly older units that tend to be cheaper; there’s not much shopping here aside from convenience stores, but you’ll have easy access to the shops and restaurants of Kaanapali. Kahana is a little more upscale than Honokowai and Mahinahina. Most of the condos here are big high-rise types, built more recently than those immediately to the south. You’ll find a nice selection of shops and restaurants in the area, and Kapalua–West Maui Airport is nearby. Napili is a much-sought-after area for condo seekers: It’s quiet; has great beaches, restaurants, and shops; and is close to Kapalua. Units are generally more expensive here (although we’ve found a few hidden gems at affordable prices; see the Napili Bay entry on p. 52). KAPALUA North beyond Kaanapali and the shopping centers of Napili and Kahana, the road starts to climb, and the vista opens up to fields of silver-green pineapple and manicured golf fairways. Turn down the country lane of Pacific pines toward the sea, and you could only be in Kapalua. It’s the very exclusive domain of two gracious and expensive hotels, set on one of Hawaii’s best gold-sand beaches, next to two bays that are marine-life preserves (with fabulous surfing in winter). Even if you don’t stay here, you’re welcome to come and enjoy Kapalua. Both of the fancy hotels provide public parking and beach access. The resort champions innovative environmental programs; it also has an art school, a golf school, three golf courses, historic features, a collection of swanky condos and homes, and wide-open spaces that include a rainforest preserve—all open to the general public. Kapalua is a great place to stay put. However, if you plan to “tour” Maui, know that it’s a long drive from here to get to many of the island’s highlights.

SOUTH MAUI This is the hottest, sunniest, driest coastline on Maui, and the most popular one for sun worshippers—Arizona by the sea. Rain rarely falls, and temperatures stick around 85°F (29°C) year-round. On former scrubland from Maalaea to Makena are now four distinct areas—Maalaea, Kihei, Wailea, and Makena—and a surprising amount of traffic.

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C H A P T E R 1 . M AU I , T H E VA L L E Y I S L E

MAALAEA If the western part of Maui is a head, Maalaea is just under the chin. This oceanfront village centers around the small boat harbor (with a general store, a couple of restaurants, and a huge new mall) and the Maui Ocean Center , an aquarium/ocean complex. This quaint region offers several condominium units to choose from, but visitors staying here should be aware that it is almost always very windy. KIHEI Kihei is less a proper town than a nearly continuous series of condos and minimalls lining South Kihei Road. This is Maui’s best vacation bargain: Budget travelers flock to the eight sandy beaches along this scalloped, condo-packed, 7-mile stretch of coast. Kihei is neither charming nor quaint, but it does offer sunshine, affordability, and convenience. If you want latte in the morning, fine beaches in the afternoon, and Hawaii Regional Cuisine in the evening, all at budget prices, head to Kihei. WAILEA Only 21⁄ 2 decades ago, this was wall-to-wall scrub kiawe trees, but now Wailea is a manicured oasis of multimillion-dollar resort hotels strung along 2 miles of palm-fringed gold coast. Today you’ll find warm, clear water full of tropical fish; year-round sunshine and clear blue skies; and hedonistic pleasure palaces on 1,500 acres of black-lava shore. Amazing what a billion dollars can do. This is the playground of the stretch-limo set. The planned resort development has a shopping village, three prized golf courses of its own and three more in close range, and a tennis complex. A growing number of large homes sprawl over the upper hillside (some offering excellent bed-and-breakfast units at reasonable prices). The resorts along this fantasy coast are spectacular, to say the least. Appealing natural features include the coastal trail, a 3-mile round-trip path along the oceanfront with pleasing views everywhere you look. The trail’s south end borders an extensive garden of native coastal plants, as well as ancient lava-rock house ruins juxtaposed with elegant oceanfront condos. But the chief attractions, of course, are those five outstanding beaches (the best is Wailea). MAKENA After passing through well-groomed Wailea, suddenly the road enters raw wilderness. Although beautiful, Makena is an end-of-the-road kind of place: It’s a long drive from here to anywhere on Maui, so if you want to tour a lot of the island, you might want to book somewhere else. But if you crave a quiet, relaxing respite, where the biggest trip of the day is from your bed to the pristine beach, Makena is your place.

THE ISLAND IN BRIEF

7

Beyond Makena you’ll discover Haleakala’s last lava flow, which ran to the sea in 1790; the bay named for French explorer La Perouse; and a chunky lava trail known as the King’s Highway, which leads around Maui’s empty south shore past ruins and fish camps. Puu Olai stands like Maui’s Diamond Head on the shore, where a sunken crater shelters tropical fish, and empty golden-sand beaches stand at the end of dirt roads.

UPCOUNTRY MAUI After a few days at the beach, you’ll probably take notice of the 10,000-foot mountain in the middle of Maui. The slopes of Haleakala (“House of the Sun”) are home to cowboys, farmers, and other country people. They’re all up here enjoying the crisp air, emerald pastures, eucalyptus, and flower farms of this tropical Olympus—there’s even a misty California redwood grove. Houses old and new are strung along a road that runs from Makawao, an old paniolo-turned–New Age village, to Kula, where the road leads up to the crater and Haleakala National Park . The rumpled, two-lane blacktop of Highway 37 narrows on the other side of Tedeschi Winery, where wine grapes and wild elk flourish on the Ulupalakua Ranch, the biggest on Maui. A stay upcountry is usually affordable, a chance to commune with nature, and a nice contrast to the sizzling beaches and busy resorts below. MAKAWAO Until recently, this small, two-street upcountry town consisted of little more than a post office, gas station, feed store, bakery, and restaurant/bar serving the cowboys and farmers living in the surrounding community; the hitching posts outside storefronts were really used to tie up horses. As the population of Maui started expanding in the 1970s, a health-food store popped up, followed by boutiques, a chiropractic clinic, and a host of health-conscious restaurants. The result is an eclectic amalgam of old paniolo Hawaii and the baby-boomer trends of transplanted mainlanders. Hui No’eau Visual Arts Center, Hawaii’s premier arts collective, is definitely worth a peek. The only accommodations here are reasonably priced bed-and-breakfasts, perfect for those who enjoy great views and don’t mind slightly chilly nights. KULA A feeling of pastoral remoteness prevails in this upcountry community of old flower farms, humble cottages, and new suburban ranch houses with million-dollar views that take in the ocean, isthmus, West Maui Mountains, Lanai, and Kahoolawe off in the distance. At night, the lights run along the gold coast like a string of

8

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pearls, from Maalaea to Puu Olai. Kula sits at a cool 3,000 feet, just below the cloud line, and from here, a winding road snakes its way up to Haleakala National Park. Everyone here grows something— Maui onions, carnations, orchids, and proteas, those strange-looking blossoms that look like Star Trek props. The local B&Bs cater to guests seeking cool tropical nights, panoramic views, and a rural upland escape. Here you’ll find the true peace and quiet that only rural farming country can offer—yet you’re still just 30 to 40 minutes away from the beach and an hour’s drive from Lahaina.

EAST MAUI THE ROAD TO HANA When old sugar towns die, they usually fade away in rust and red dirt. Not Paia. The tangle of electrical, phone, and cable wires hanging overhead symbolizes the town’s ability to adapt to the times—it may look messy, but it works. Here, trendy restaurants, eclectic boutiques, and high-tech windsurf shops stand next door to the ma-and-pa grocery, fish market, and storefronts that have been serving customers since the plantation days. Hippies took over in the 1970s; although their macrobiotic restaurants and old-style artists’ co-op have made way for Hawaii Regional Cuisine and galleries featuring the works of renowned international artists, Paia still manages to maintain a pleasant vibe of hippiedom. The town’s main attraction, though, is Hookipa Beach Park, where the wind that roars through the isthmus of Maui brings windsurfers from around the world, who come to fly over the waves on gossamer wings linked to surfboards. Ten minutes down the road from Paia and up the hill from the Hana Highway—the connector road to the entire east side of Maui—sits Haiku. Once a pineapple-plantation village, complete with cannery (today a shopping complex), Haiku offers vacation rentals and B&Bs in a quiet, pastoral setting: the perfect base for those who want to get off the beaten path and experience a quieter side of Maui, but don’t want to feel too removed (the beach is only 10 min. away). About 15 to 20 minutes past Haiku is the largely unknown community of Huelo. Every day, thousands of cars whiz by on the road to Hana. But if you take the time to stop, you’ll discover a hidden Hawaii, where Mother Nature is still sensual and wild, where ocean waves pummel soaring lava cliffs, and where serenity prevails. Huelo is not for everyone, but if you want the magic of a place still largely untouched by “progress,” check into a B&B or vacation rental here.

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HANA Set between an emerald rainforest and the blue Pacific is a village probably best defined by what it lacks: golf courses, shopping malls, and McDonald’s. Except for two gas stations and a bank with an ATM, you’ll find little of what passes for progress here. Instead, you’ll discover fragrant tropical flowers, the sweet taste of backyard bananas and papayas, and the easy calm and unabashed small-town aloha spirit of old Hawaii. What saved “Heavenly” Hana from the inevitable march of progress? The 52mile Hana Highway, which winds around 600 curves and crosses more than 50 one-lane bridges on its way from Kahului. You can go to Hana for the day—it’s a 3-hour drive (and a half century away)— but 3 days are better. The tiny town has one hotel, a handful of great B&Bs, and some spectacular vacation rentals (where else can you stay in a tropical cabin in a rainforest?).

2 Visitor Information For advance information on traveling in Maui, contact the Maui Visitors Bureau, 1727 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, Maui, HI 96793 (& 800/525-MAUI or 808/244-3530; fax 808/244-1337; www. visitmaui.com). The Kaanapali Beach Resort Association is at 2530 Kekaa Dr., Suite 1-B, Lahaina, HI 96761 (& 800/245-9229 or 808/6613271; fax 808/661-9431; www.maui.net/~kbra). The state agency responsible for tourism is the Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau (HVCB), Suite 801, Waikiki Business Plaza, 2270 Kalakaua Ave., Honolulu, HI 96815 (& 800/GOHAWAII or 808/923-1811; www.gohawaii.com). If you want information about working and living in Hawaii, contact The Chamber of Commerce of Hawaii, 1132 Bishop St., Suite 200, Honolulu, HI 96815 (& 808/545-4300).

INFORMATION ON MAUI’S PARKS NATIONAL PARKS Both Maui and Molokai have one national park each: Haleakala National Park, P.O. Box 369, Makawao, HI 96768 (& 808/572-4400; www.nps.gov/hale); and Kalaupapa National Historical Park, P.O. Box 2222, Kalaupapa, HI 96742 (& 808/567-6802; www.nps.gov/kala). For more information, see “Hiking” in chapter 5. STATE PARKS To find out more about state parks on Maui and Molokai, contact the Hawaii State Department of Land and Natural Resources, 54 S. High St., Wailuku, HI 96793

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(& 808/984-8109; www.hawaii.gov), which provides information on hiking and camping and will send you free topographic trail maps on request.

3 Money ATMS Hawaii pioneered the use of ATMs more than 2 decades ago, and now they’re everywhere. You’ll find them at most banks, in supermarkets, at Long’s Drugs, and in most resorts and shopping centers. Cirrus (& 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (& 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) are the two most popular networks; check the back of your ATM card to see which network your bank belongs to (most banks belong to both these days).

TRAVELER’S CHECKS Traveler’s checks are something of an anachronism from the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time. Traveler’s checks used to be the only sound alternative to traveling with dangerously large amounts of cash. They were as reliable as currency, but, unlike cash, could be replaced if lost or stolen. These days, traveler’s checks are less necessary because most cities have 24-hour ATMs that allow you to withdraw small amounts of cash as needed. However, keep in mind that you will likely be charged an ATM withdrawal fee if the bank is not your own, so if you’re withdrawing money every day, you might be better off with traveler’s checks—provided that you don’t mind showing identification every time you want to cash one. You can get traveler’s checks at almost any bank. American Express offers denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and (for cardholders only) $1,000. You’ll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%. You can also get American Express traveler’s checks over the phone by calling & 800/221-7282; Amex gold and platinum cardholders who use this number are exempt from the 1% fee. AAA members can obtain checks without a fee at most AAA offices. Visa offers traveler’s checks at Citibank locations nationwide, as well as at several other banks. The service charge ranges between 1.5% and 2%; checks come in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and $1,000. Call & 800/732-1322 for information. MasterCard also offers traveler’s checks. Call & 800/223-9920 for a location near you. If you choose to carry traveler’s checks, be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that

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they are stolen or lost. You’ll get a refund faster if you know the numbers. Credit cards are accepted all over the island. They’re a safe way to carry money, and they provide a convenient record of all your expenses. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. If you’ve forgotten yours, or didn’t even know you had one, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother’s maiden name or some other personal information. Still, be sure to keep some cash on hand for that rare occasion when a restaurant or small shop doesn’t take plastic.

4 When to Go Most visitors don’t come to Maui when the weather’s best in the islands; rather, they come when it’s at its worst everywhere else. Thus, the high season—when prices are up and resorts are booked to capacity—generally runs from mid-December through March or mid-April. The last 2 weeks of December in particular are the prime time for travel to Maui; if you’re planning a holiday trip, make your reservations as early as possible, count on holiday crowds, and expect to pay top dollar for accommodations, car rentals, and airfare. Whale-watching season begins in January and continues through the rest of winter, sometimes lasting into May. The off seasons, when the best bargain rates are available, are spring (from mid-Apr to mid-June) and fall (from Sept to midDec)—a paradox, since these are the best seasons in terms of reliably great weather. If you’re looking to save money, or if you just want to avoid the crowds, this is the time to visit. Hotel rates tend to be significantly lower during these off seasons. Airfares also tend to be lower—again, sometimes substantially—and good packages and special deals are often available. Note: If you plan to come to Maui between the last week in April and mid-May, be sure to book your accommodations, interisland air reservations, and car rental in advance. In Japan, the last week of April is called Golden Week, because three Japanese holidays take place one after the other; the islands are especially busy with Japanese tourists during this time. Due to the large number of families traveling in summer (June–Aug), you won’t get the fantastic bargains of spring and fall.

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However, you’ll still do much better on packages, airfare, and accommodations than you will in the winter months.

THE WEATHER Because Maui lies at the edge of the tropical zone, it technically has only two seasons, both of them warm. The dry season corresponds to summer, and the rainy season generally runs during the winter from November to March. It rains every day somewhere in the islands at any time of the year, but the rainy season can cause “gray” weather and spoil your tanning opportunities. Fortunately, it seldom rains for more than 3 days straight, and rainy days often just consist of a mix of clouds and sun, with very brief showers. The year-round temperature usually varies no more than 15°F (9°C), but it depends on where you are. Maui is like a ship in that it has leeward and windward sides. The leeward sides (the west and south) are usually hot and dry, whereas the windward sides (east and north) are generally cooler and moist. If you want arid, sunbaked, desertlike weather, go leeward. If you want lush, often wet, junglelike weather, go windward. Your best bets for total year-round sun are the Kihei-Wailea and Lahaina-Kapalua coasts. Maui is also full of microclimates, thanks to its interior valleys, coastal plains, and mountain peaks. If you travel into the mountains, it can change from summer to winter in a matter of hours, because it’s cooler the higher up you go. In other words, if the weather doesn’t suit you, go to the other side of the island—or head into the hills.

HOLIDAYS When Hawaii observes holidays, especially those over a long weekend, travel between the islands increases, interisland airline seats are fully booked, rental cars are at a premium, and hotels and restaurants are busier than usual. Federal, state, and county government offices are closed on all federal holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day); third Monday in January (Martin Luther King Jr. Day); third Monday in February (Presidents’ Day); last Monday in May (Memorial Day); July 4 (Independence Day); first Monday in September (Labor Day); second Monday in October (Columbus Day); November 11 (Veterans’ Day); fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day); and December 25 (Christmas). State and county offices also are closed on local holidays, including Prince Kuhio Day (Mar 26), honoring the birthday of Hawaii’s

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first delegate to the U.S. Congress; King Kamehameha Day (June 11), a statewide holiday commemorating Kamehameha the Great, who united the islands and ruled from 1795 to 1819; and Admission Day (3rd Fri in Aug), which honors Hawaii’s admission as the 50th state in the United States on August 21, 1959.

MAUI CALENDAR OF EVENTS As with any schedule of upcoming events, the following information is subject to change; always confirm the details before you plan your schedule around an event. For a complete and up-to-date list of events throughout Maui, Molokai, and Lanai, point your browser to www.visitmaui.com or www. calendarmaui.com.

January

PGA Kapalua Mercedes Championship, Kapalua Resort. Top PGA golfers compete for $1 million. Call & 808/669-2440; www.kapaluamaui.com. January 5 to January 11, 2004. Chinese New Year. Lahaina town rolls out the red carpet for this important event with a traditional lion dance at the historic Wo Hing Temple on Front Street, accompanied by fireworks, food booths, and a host of activities. Call & 888/310-1117 or 808/667-9175 for details. In Wailuku, Chinese New Year is celebrated on Market Street (& 808/270-7414 for more info). The year of the monkey starts January 22, 2004. Hula Bowl Football All-Star Classic, War Memorial Stadium. An annual all-star football classic featuring America’s top college players. Call & 808/871-4141; www.hulabowlmaui.com; ticket orders are processed beginning April 1 for the next year’s game, January 31, 2004. Senior Skins Tournament, Golf Course, Wailea Golf Courses. Longtime golfing greats participate in this four-man tournament for $600,000 in prize money. Call & 800/332-1614; www. seniorskinswailea.com. January 31, 2004. February

Whalefest Week. A weeklong celebration of Maui’s best-known winter visitors, the humpback whales. Activities include a whalecounting day and other islandwide events like Hawaiian entertainment, great food by Maui’s top restaurants, seminars, art exhibits, sailing, snorkeling and diving tours, and numerous events for children. Call & 808/667-9175 or 808/879-8860. February or March. March

Art Maui 2004, Kahului. The 25th annual juried art show of multimedia works by Maui artists. Maui Arts and Cultural

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Center, & 808/242-7469; www.MauiArts.org. Mid-March through early April. Run to the Sun, Paia to Haleakala. The world’s top ultramarathoners make the journey from sea level to the top of 10,000foot Haleakala, some 37 miles. Call & 808/891-2516; www.virr.com. March 21, 2004. East Maui Taro Festival, Hana. Here’s your chance to taste taro in its many different preparations, from poi to chips. Also on hand are Hawaiian exhibits, demonstrations, and food booths. Call & 808/248-8972; www.calendarmaui.com. March 26 to March 28, 2004. April

Buddha Day, Lahaina Jodo Mission, Lahaina. Each year, this historic mission holds a flower festival pageant honoring the birth of Buddha. Call & 808/661-4303; www.calendarmaui.com. First Saturday in April. Annual Ritz-Carlton Kapalua Celebration of the Arts, RitzCarlton Kapalua. Contemporary and traditional artists give free hands-on lessons. Call & 808/669-6200; www.celebration ofthearts.org. The 4-day festival begins the Thursday before Easter, April 8 to April 11, 2004. That Ulupalakua Thing! Maui County Agricultural Trade Show and Sampling, Ulupalakua Ranch and Tedeschi Winery, Ulupalakua. The name may be long and cumbersome, but this event is hot, hot, hot. It features local product exhibits, food booths, and live entertainment. Call & 808/875-0457. April 24, 2004. May

Annual Lei Day Celebration. May Day is Lei Day in Hawaii, celebrated with lei-making contests, pageantry, arts and crafts, and concerts throughout the islands. Call & 800/525-6284 or 808/244-3530; www.visitmaui.com for Maui events. May 1. Outrigger Canoe Season, all islands. From May to September, nearly every weekend, canoe paddlers across the state participate in outrigger canoe races. Call & 808/961-5797. In Celebration of Canoes, West Maui. Celebration of the Pacific islands’ seafaring heritage. Events include canoe paddling and sailing regattas, a luau feast, cultural arts demonstrations, canoebuilding exhibits, and music. Call & 888/310-1117. May 8 to May 22, 2004.

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June

King Kamehameha Celebration, statewide. It’s a state holiday with a massive floral parade, hoolaulea (party), and much more. Call & 888/310-1117 or 808/661-5304 for Maui events, or 808/567-6361 for Molokai events. June 12, 2004. Maui Film Festival, Wailea Resort. Five days and nights of screenings of premieres, special films, along with traditional Hawaiian storytelling, chants, hula, and contemporary music. Call & 808/579-9996; www.mauifilmfestival.com. June 16 to June 20, 2004. Hawaiian Slack-Key Guitar Festival, Maui Arts and Cultural Center, Kahului. Great music performed by the best musicians in Hawaii. It’s 5 hours long and absolutely free. Call & 808/ 239-4336; [email protected]. June 20, 2004. July

Makawao Parade and Rodeo, Makawao. The annual parade and rodeo event have been taking place in this upcountry cowboy town for generations. Call & 800/525-MAUI or 808/572-9565. July 4, 2004. Kapalua Wine and Food Festival, Kapalua. Famous wine and food experts and oenophiles gather at the Ritz-Carlton and Kapalua Bay hotels for formal tastings, panel discussions, and samplings of new releases. Call & 800/KAPALUA or 808/ 669-0244; www.kapaluaresort.com. July 8 to July 11, 2004. August

Hawaii State Windsurf Championship, Kanaha Beach Park, Kahului. Top windsurfers compete. Call & 808/877-2111. August 7, 2004. Admission Day, all islands. Hawaii became the 50th state on August 21, 1959, so the state takes a holiday; all state-related facilities will be closed. Third Friday in August. September

Aloha Festivals, various locations statewide. Parades and other events celebrate Hawaiian culture. Call & 800/852-7690 or 808/545-1771; www.alohafestivals.com for a schedule of events. A Taste of Lahaina, Lahaina Civic Center. Some 30,000 people show up to sample 40 signature entrees of Maui’s premier chefs during this weekend festival, which includes cooking demonstrations, wine tastings, and live entertainment. The event begins Friday night with Maui Chefs Present, a dinner/cocktail party

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featuring about a dozen of Maui’s best chefs. Call & 888/ 310-1117. September 11 to September 12. Maui Marathon, Kahului to Kaanapali. Runners line up at the Maui Mall before daybreak and head off for Kaanapali. Call & 808/871-6441; www.virr.com. September 19, 2004. Maui County Fair, War Memorial Complex, Wailuku. The oldest county fair in Hawaii features a parade, amusement rides, live entertainment, and exhibits. Call & 800/525-MAUI or 808/244-3530; www.calendarmaui.com. September 30 to October 3. October

Aloha Classic World Wavesailing Championship, Hookipa Beach. The top windsurfers in the world gather for this final event in the Pro Boardsailing World Tour. If you’re on Maui, don’t miss it—it’s spectacular to watch. Call & 808/575-9151. Depending on the waves and the wind, the championship can be held in October or November. Halloween in Lahaina. There’s Carnival in Rio, Mardi Gras in New Orleans, and Halloween in Lahaina. Come to this giant costume party (some 20,000 people show up) on the streets of Lahaina; Front Street is closed off for the party. Call & 888/ 310-1117. October 31, 2004. November

Hawaii International Film Festival, various locations. A cinema festival with a cross-cultural spin, featuring filmmakers from Asia, the Pacific Islands, and the United States. Call & 800/752-8193 or 808/528-FILM; www.hiff.org. Mid-November. Maui Invitational Basketball Tournament, Lahaina Civic Center. Top college teams vie in this annual preseason tournament. Call & 312/755-3504. Usually held around Thanksgiving. December

Festival of Lights, islandwide. Festivities include parades and tree-lighting ceremonies. Call & 808/667-9175 on Maui. Early December. Festival of Art & Flowers, Lahaina. Look for cut flower displays, floral arrangements, demonstrations, lei-making contests, art exhibits, and entertainment. Call & 808/667-9175. December 4, 2004. Old-Fashioned Holiday Celebration, Lahaina. A day of Christmas carolers, Santa Claus, live music and entertainment, a crafts

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fair, Christmas baked goods, and activities for children, all taking place in the Banyan Tree Park on Front Street. Call & 888/ 310-1117. December 4, 2004. First Light 2004, Maui Arts and Cultural Center. Academy of Motion Pictures holds major screening of top films. Not to be missed. Call & 808/579-9996; www.mauifilmfestival.com. December 15, 2004 to January 2, 2005.

5 Travel Insurance Check your existing insurance policies and credit-card coverage before you buy travel insurance. You may already be covered for lost luggage, canceled tickets, or medical expenses. The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the cost and length of your trip, your age, health, and the type of trip you’re taking. TRIP-CANCELLATION INSURANCE Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a trip, if you have to go home early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Allowed reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe for travel. Insurance policy details vary, so read the fine print—and especially make sure that your airline or cruise line is on the list of carriers covered in case of bankruptcy. For information, contact one of the following insurers: Access America (& 800/284-8300; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (& 800/ 826-1300; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (& 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (& 800/228-9792; www.travelex-insurance.com). MEDICAL INSURANCE Most health insurance policies cover you if you get sick away from home—but check, particularly if you’re insured by an HMO.

6 Specialized Travel Resources FOR TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES Travelers with disabilities are made to feel very welcome in Maui. Hotels are usually equipped with wheelchair-accessible rooms, and tour companies provide many special services. The Hawaii Center for Independent Living, 414 Kauwili St., Suite 102, Honolulu, HI 96817 (& 808/522-5400; fax 808/586-8129; www.hawaii.gov/ health; [email protected]), can provide information and send you a copy of the Aloha Guide to Accessibility ($15).

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Moss Rehab ResourceNet (www.mossresourcenet.org) is a great source for information, tips, and resources relating to accessible travel. You’ll find links to a number of travel agents who specialize in planning trips for travelers with disabilities here and through Access-Able Travel Source (& 303/232-2979; www. access-able.com), another excellent online source. You’ll also find relay and voice numbers for hotels, airlines, and car-rental companies on Access-Able’s user-friendly site, as well as links to accessible accommodations, attractions, transportation, tours, local medical resources and equipment repair, and much more. For travelers with disabilities who wish to do their own driving, hand-controlled cars can be rented from Avis (& 800/331-1212; www.avis.com) and Hertz (& 800/654-3131; www.hertz.com). The number of hand-controlled cars in Hawaii is limited, so be sure to book well in advance. For wheelchair-accessible vans, contact Accessible Vans of Hawaii, 186 Mehani Circle, Kihei (& 800/303-3750 or 808/879-5521; fax 808/879-0640; www.accessiblevans.com). Maui recognizes other states’ windshield placards indicating that the driver of the car is disabled, so be sure to bring yours with you. Vision-impaired travelers who use a Seeing Eye dog need to present documentation that the dog is a trained Seeing Eye dog and has had rabies shots. For more information, contact the Animal Quarantine Facility (& 808/483-7171; www.hawaii.gov).

FOR GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS Known for its acceptance of all groups, Hawaii welcomes gays and lesbians just as it does anybody else. To get a sense of the local gay and lesbian community on the island of Maui, contact Both Sides Now (& 808/244-4566; fax 808/874-6221), which publishes a monthly newspaper on issues and events for Maui’s gay, lesbian, bisexual, and transgender community. Pacific Ocean Holidays, P.O. Box 88245, Honolulu, HI 96830 (& 800/735-6600 or 808/923-2400; www.gayhawaii.com), offers vacation packages that feature gay-owned and gay-friendly lodgings. It also publishes the Pocket Guide to Hawaii: A Guide for Gay Visitors & Kamaaina, a list of gay-owned and gay-friendly businesses throughout the islands. Send $5 for a copy (mail order only; no phone orders, please), or access the online version on the website. If you want help planning your trip, the International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; & 800/448-8550 or 954/ 776-2626; www.iglta.org) can link you up with the appropriate gayfriendly service organization or tour specialist. With around 1,200

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members, it offers quarterly newsletters, marketing mailings, and a membership directory that’s updated quarterly. Members are kept informed of gay and gay-friendly hoteliers, tour operators, and airline and cruise-line representatives. GayWired Travel Services (www.gaywired.com) is another great trip-planning resource; click on “Travel Services.” Out and About (& 800/929-2268 or 415/486-2591; www. outandabout.com) offers a monthly newsletter packed with good information on the global gay and lesbian scene. Its website features links to gay and lesbian tour operators and other gay-themed travel links, plus extensive online travel information to subscribers only. Out and About’s guidebooks are available at most major bookstores and through www.adlbooks.com.

FOR SENIORS Discounts for seniors are available at almost all of Maui’s major attractions, and occasionally at hotels and restaurants. Always inquire when making hotel reservations, and especially when you’re buying your airline ticket—most major domestic airlines offer senior discounts. Members of AARP (& 800/424-3410 or 202/434-2277; www.aarp.org) are usually eligible for such discounts; AARP also puts together organized tour packages at moderate rates. Some great, low-cost trips to Hawaii are offered to people 55 and older through Elderhostel, 75 Federal St., Boston, MA 02110 (& 617/426-8056; www.elderhostel.org), a nonprofit group that arranges travel and study programs around the world. You can obtain a complete catalog of offerings by writing to Elderhostel, P.O. Box 1959, Wakefield, MA 01880-5959. If you’re planning to visit Haleakala National Park, you can save sightseeing dollars if you’re 62 or older by picking up a Golden Age Passport from any national park, recreation area, or monument. This lifetime pass has a one-time fee of $10 and provides free admission to all of the parks in the system, plus a 50% savings on camping and recreation fees. You can pick one up at any park entrance; be sure to have proof of your age with you.

FOR FAMILIES Maui is paradise for children: beaches to frolic on, water to splash in, unusual sights to see, and a host of new foods to taste. The larger hotels and resorts have supervised programs for children and can refer you to qualified babysitters. You can also contact People Attentive to Children (PATCH; & 808/242-9232;

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www.patch-hi.org), which will refer you to individuals who have taken their training courses on child care. Baby’s Away (& 800/942-9030 or 808/875-9093; www.babys away.com) rents cribs, strollers, highchairs, playpens, infant seats, and the like, to make your baby’s vacation (and yours) much more enjoyable. Remember that Maui’s sun is probably much stronger than what you’re used to at home, so it’s important to protect your kids, and keep infants out of the sun altogether. Infants under 6 months should not be in the sun at all. Older babies need zinc oxide to protect their fragile skin, and children should be slathered with sunscreen every hour. Condo rentals are a great option for families; the convenience of having your own kitchen is great for mom and dad. Our favorite condo complexes are reviewed in chapter 3.

7 Getting There If possible, fly directly to Maui; doing so can save you a 2-hour layover in Honolulu and another plane ride. If you’re headed for Molokai or Lanai, you’ll have to connect through Honolulu. If you think of the island of Maui as the shape of a head and shoulders of a person, you’ll probably arrive on its neck, at Kahului Airport. At press time, six airlines fly directly from the U.S. mainland to Kahului: United Airlines (& 800/241-6522; www.ual.com) offers daily nonstop flights from San Francisco and Los Angeles; Aloha Airlines (& 800/367-5250; www.alohaair.com) has nonstop service from Kahului Maui to Burbank, California (closer to downtown Los Angeles than Los Angeles International Airport), Orange County, California, and Phoenix, Arizona. International travelers can use Aloha’s service from Vancouver, British Columbia; Hawaiian Airlines (& 800/367-5320; www.hawaiianair.com) has direct flights from Los Angeles, San Francisco, Portland, and Seattle; American Airlines (& 800/433-7300; www.aa.com) flies direct from Los Angeles and San Jose; Delta Airlines (& 800/221-1212; www.delta.com) offers direct flights from San Francisco and Los Angeles; and American Trans Air (& 800/435-9282; www. ata.com) has direct flights from Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Phoenix. The other carriers—including Continental (& 800/525-0280; www.continental.com), which offers nonstop service from Newark

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to Honolulu, and Northwest Airlines (& 800/225-2525; www.nwa.com), which has a daily nonstop from Detroit—fly to Honolulu, where you’ll have to pick up an interisland flight to Maui. (The airlines listed in the paragraph above also offer many more flights to Honolulu from additional cities on the mainland.) Both Aloha Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines offer jet service from Honolulu. See “Interisland Flights” later in this chapter. For information on airlines serving Hawaii from places other than the U.S. mainland, see chapter 2, “For International Visitors.”

LANDING AT KAHULUI AIRPORT If there’s a long wait at baggage claim, step over to the state-operated Visitor Information Center, where you can pick up brochures and the latest issue of This Week Maui, which features great regional maps of the islands, and ask about island activities. After collecting your bags from the poky, automated carousels, step out, take a deep breath, proceed to the curbside rental-car pickup area, and wait for the appropriate rental-agency shuttle van to take you a half mile away to the rental-car checkout desk. (All major rental companies have branches at Kahului; see “Getting Around” later in this chapter.) If you’re not renting a car, the cheapest way to get to your hotel is SpeediShuttle (& 808/875-8070; www.speedishuttle.com), which can take you between Kahului Airport and all the major resorts between 5am and 11pm daily. Rates vary, but figure on $30 for one to Wailea (one-way), $41 for one to Kaanapali (one-way), and $57 one-way to Kapalua. Be sure to call before your flight to arrange pickup. You’ll see taxis outside the airport terminal, but note that they are quite expensive—expect to spend around $60 to $75 for a ride from Kahului to Kaanapali and $50 from the airport to Wailea. If possible, avoid landing on Maui between 3 and 6pm, when the working stiffs on Maui are “pau work” (finished with work) and a major traffic jam occurs at the first intersection. AVOIDING KAHULUI If you’re planning to stay at any of the hotels in Kapalua or at the Kaanapali resorts, you might consider flying Island Air (& 800/323-3345; www.islandair.com) from Honolulu to Kapalua–West Maui Airport. From this airport, it’s only a 10- to 15-minute drive to most hotels in West Maui, as opposed to an hour from Kahului. Pacific Wings (& 888/ 873-0877 or 808/575-4546; fax 808/873-7920; www.pacificwings. com) flies eight-passenger, twin-engine Cessna 402C aircraft into tiny Hana Airport, and also flies into Kahului.

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Tips Agricultural Restrictions You cannot bring fresh fruits and vegetables into Hawaii, even if you’re coming from the U.S. mainland and have no need to clear Customs.

Interisland Flights Don’t expect to jump a ferry between any of the Hawaiian islands. Today, everyone island-hops by plane. Before the September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks, there used to be flights between Honolulu and Maui almost every 20 minutes of every day from just before sunrise to well after sunset. Those days are gone. There are fewer and fewer interisland flights, so be sure to book your interisland connection from Honolulu to Maui in advance. Aloha Airlines (& 800/367-5250 or 808/244-9071; www.aloha air.com) is the state’s largest provider of interisland air transport service. It offers 15 regularly scheduled daily jet flights a day from Honolulu to Maui on their all-jet fleet of Boeing 737 aircraft. Aloha’s sibling company, Island Air (& 800/323-3345 or 808/484-2222; www.alohaair.com), operates deHavilland DASH-8 and DASH-6 turboprop aircraft and serves Hawaii’s small interisland airports on Maui, Molokai, and Lanai, with flights connecting them to Oahu. Hawaiian Airlines (& 800/367-5320 or 808/871-6132; www. hawaiianair.com) is Hawaii’s other interisland airline featuring jet planes. A newcomer on the interisland commuter scene is Kahului-based Pacific Wings (& 888/873-0877 or 808/575-4546; www.pacific wings.com). It currently offers flights between Kahului and Hana, Molokai, Lanai, and Honolulu.

8 Money-Saving Package Deals Booking an all-inclusive travel package that includes some combination of airfare, accommodations, rental car, meals, airport and baggage transfers, and sightseeing can be the most cost-effective way to travel to Maui. Package tours are not the same as escorted tours. They are simply a way to buy airfare and accommodations (and sometimes extras like sightseeing tours and rental cars) at the same time. When you’re

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visiting Hawaii, a package can be a smart way to go. That’s because packages are sold in bulk to tour operators, who then resell them to the public at a cost that drastically undercuts standard rates. Packages, however, vary widely. Some offer a better class of hotels than others. Some offer the same hotels for lower prices. With some packagers, your choice of accommodations and travel days may be limited. Which package is right for you depends entirely on what you want. Start out by reading this guide. Do a little homework, and read up on Maui so that you can be a smart consumer. Compare the rack rates that we’ve published to the discounted rates being offered by the packagers to see what kinds of deals they’re offering. If you’re being offered a stay in a hotel we haven’t recommended, do more research to learn about it, especially if it isn’t a reliable franchise. It’s not a deal if you end up at a dump. Be sure to read the fine print. Make sure you know exactly what’s included in the price you’re being quoted, and what’s not. Are hotel taxes and airport transfers included, or will you have to pay extra? Before you commit to a package, make sure you know how much flexibility you have. Some packagers require ironclad commitments, while others will go with the flow, charging only minimal fees for changes or cancellations. The best place to start looking for a package deal is in the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Also check the ads in the back of such national travel magazines as Arthur Frommer’s Budget Travel and Travel Holiday. Liberty Travel (& 888/271-1584; www.libertytravel.com), for instance, one of the biggest packagers in the Northeast, usually boasts a full-page ad in Sunday papers. American Express Travel (& 800/AXP-6898; www.americanexpress. com/travel) can also book you a well-priced Hawaiian vacation; it also advertises in many Sunday travel sections.

Tips Package-Buying Tip For one-stop shopping on the Web, go to Pleasant Hawaiian Holidays (& 800/2-HAWAII or 800/242-9244; www.pleasant holidays.com), by far the biggest and most comprehensive packager to Hawaii; it offers an extensive, high-quality collection of 50 condos and hotels in every price range.

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Tips Hawaii on the Web Below are some of the best Hawaii-specific websites for planning your trip. • Hawaii Visitors & Convention Bureau (HVCB; www. gohawaii.com) • Planet Hawaii (www.planet-hawaii.com) • Maui Island Currents (www.islandcurrents.com) • Maui Net (www.maui.net) • The Hawaiian Language Website (http://hawaiian language.com)

Excellent deals can be found at More Hawaii For Less (& 800/ 967-6687; www.hawaii4less.com), a California-based company that specializes in air-condominium packages at unbelievable prices. Other reliable packagers include the airlines themselves, which often package their flights with accommodations. Among the airlines offering good-value package deals to Hawaii are American Airlines FlyAway Vacations (& 800/321-2121; www.aa.com), Continental Airlines Vacations (& 800/634-5555 or 800/301-3800; www.cool vacations.com), Delta Dream Vacations (& 800/872-7786; www.deltavacations.com), and United Vacations (& 800/328-6877; www.unitedvacations.com). If you’re traveling to the islands from Canada, ask your travel agent about package deals through Air Canada Vacations (& 800/776-3000; www.aircanada.ca).

9 Getting Around The only way to really see Maui is by rental car. There’s no real islandwide public transit. Maui has only a handful of major roads: One follows the coastline around the two volcanoes that form the island, Haleakala and Puu Kukui; one goes up to Haleakala’s summit; one goes to Hana; one goes to Wailea; and one goes to Lahaina. It sounds simple, right? Well, it isn’t, because the names of the few roads change en route. Also, you should expect to encounter a traffic jam or two in the major resort areas. The best and most detailed road maps are published by This Week Magazine, a free visitor publication available on Maui. Most rental-car maps are pretty good, too.

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CAR RENTALS Maui has one of the least expensive car-rental rates in the country. Cars are usually plentiful on Maui, except on holiday weekends, which in Hawaii also means King Kamehameha Day, Prince Kuhio Day, and Admission Day (see “When to Go” earlier in this chapter). Rental cars are usually at a premium on Molokai and Lanai, so be sure to book well ahead. All the major car-rental agencies have offices on Maui, usually at both Kahului and West Maui Airports. They include: Alamo (& 800/327-9633; www.goalamo.com), Avis (& 800/321-3712; www.avis.com), Budget (& 800/935-6878; https://rent.drive budget.com/Home.jsp), Dollar (& 800/800-4000; www.dollarcar. com), Hertz (& 800/654-3011; www.hertz.com), and National (& 800/227-7368; www.nationalcar.com). There are also a few frugal car-rental agencies offering older cars at discount prices. Word of Mouth Rent-a-Used-Car , 150 Hana Hwy. #A, in Kahului (& 800/533-5929 or 808/877-2436; www. mauirentacar.com), offers an older, four-door compact without airconditioning for $120 a week, plus tax; with air-conditioning, it’s $140 a week, plus tax. Discount Car Rental, 1993 S. Kihei Rd., Suite 214-B Kihei (& 877/874-4800 or 808/874-4800), rents used economy cars at a weekly rate of $115 to $140, plus tax. They do not provide airport pickup, however; you’ll have to make your own way to Kihei (it’s about $28 via taxi; see “Other Transportation Options” below, for details).

Tips Traffic Advisory The road from central Maui to Kihei and Wailea, Mokulele Highway (Hwy. 311), is a dangerous strip that’s often the scene of head-on crashes involving intoxicated and speeding drivers; be careful. Also, be alert on the Honoapiilani Highway (Hwy. 30) en route to Lahaina, because drivers who spot whales in the channel between Maui and Lanai often slam on the brakes and cause major tie-ups and accidents. There are 29 emergency call boxes on the island’s busiest highways and remote areas, including along the Hana and Haleakala highways and on the north end of the island in the remote community of Kahakuloa. Another traffic note: Buckle up your seat belt—Hawaii has stiff fines for noncompliance.

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To rent a car in Hawaii, you must be at least 25 years old and have a valid driver’s license and a credit card. Your valid home-state license will be recognized here. INSURANCE Hawaii is a no-fault state, which means that if you don’t have collision-damage insurance, you are required to pay for all damages before you leave the state, whether or not the accident was your fault. Your personal car insurance back home may provide rental-car coverage; read your policy or call your insurer before you leave home. Bring your insurance identification card if you decline the optional insurance, which usually costs from $12 to $20 a day. Obtain the name of your company’s local claim representative before you go. Some credit-card companies also provide collisiondamage insurance for their customers; check with yours before you rent.

OTHER TRANSPORTATION OPTIONS TAXIS For islandwide 24-hour service, call Alii Cab Co. (& 808/ 661-3688 or 808/667-2605). You can also try Kihei Taxi (& 808/ 879-3000), Wailea Taxi (& 808/874-5000), or Maui Central Cab (& 808/244-7278) if you need a ride. SHUTTLES SpeediShuttle (& 808/875-8070; www.speedi shuttle.com) can take you between Kahului Airport and all the major resorts from 5am to 11pm daily (for details, see “Landing at Kahului Airport” under “Getting There” earlier in this chapter). Free shuttle vans operate within the resort areas of Kaanapali, Kapalua, and Wailea; if you’re staying in those areas, your hotel can fill you in on exact routes and schedules.

FAST FACTS: Maui American Express For 24-hour traveler’s check refunds and purchase information, call & 800/221-7282. Local offices are located in South Maui at the Grand Wailea Resort (& 808/ 875-4526) and the Westin Maui at Kaanapali Beach (& 808/ 661-7155). Dentists Emergency dental care is available at Kihei Dental Center, 1847 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei (& 808/874-8401) or in Lahaina at the Aloha Lahaina Dentists, 134 Luakini St. (in the Maui Medical Group Building), Lahaina (& 808/661-4005).

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Doctors No appointment is necessary at West Maui Healthcare Center, Whalers Village, 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy., Suite H-7 (near Leilani’s Restaurant), Kaanapali (& 808/667-9721), which is open 365 days a year, nightly until 10pm. In Kihei, call Urgent Care, 1325 S. Kihei Rd., Suite 103 (at Lipoa St., across from Star Market), Kihei (& 808/879-7781), open daily from 6am to midnight; doctors are on call 24 hours a day. Emergencies Dial & 911 for the police, ambulance, and fire department. District stations are located in Lahaina (& 808/ 661-4441) and in Hana (& 808/248-8311). For the Poison Control Center, call & 800/362-3585. Hospitals For medical attention, go to Maui Memorial Hospital, in Central Maui at 221 Mahalani, Wailuku (& 808/ 244-9056); and East Maui’s Hana Medical Center, on Hana Highway (& 808/248-8924). Post Offices To find the nearest post office, call & 800/ASKUSPS. In Lahaina, there are branches at the Lahaina Civic Center, 1760 Honoapiilani Hwy.; in Kahului, there’s a branch at 138 S. Puunene Ave.; and in Kihei, there’s one at 1254 S. Kihei Rd. Weather For the current weather, call & 808/871-5111; for recreational activities, call & 808/871-5054; for Haleakala National Park weather, call & 808/871-5111; for marine weather and surf and wave conditions, call & 808/877-3477.

2 For International Visitors hether it’s your first visit or your 10th, a trip to the United W States may require additional planning. The pervasiveness of American culture around the world may make the United States feel like familiar territory to foreign visitors, but leaving your own country for the States—especially the unique island of Maui—still requires some arrangements before you leave home. This chapter will provide you with essential information, helpful tips, and advice for the more common problems that some visitors encounter.

1 Preparing for Your Trip ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Check at any U.S. embassy or consulate for current information and requirements. You can also obtain a visa application and other information online at the U.S. State Department’s website, at www. travel.state.gov. VISAS The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program allowing citizens of certain countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days. At press time these included Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom, and Uruguay. Citizens of these countries need only a valid passport and a round-trip air or cruise ticket in their possession upon arrival. If they first enter the United States, they may also visit Mexico, Canada, Bermuda, and/or the Caribbean islands and return to the United States without a visa. Further information is available from any U.S. embassy or consulate. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas; they need only proof of residence. Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the United States and (2) a tourist visa, which may be obtained without charge from any U.S. consulate.

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To obtain a visa, the traveler must submit a completed application form (either in person or by mail) with a 11⁄ 2-inch-square photo, and must demonstrate binding ties to a residence abroad. Usually you can obtain a visa at once or within 24 hours, but it may take longer during the summer rush from June through August. If you cannot go in person, contact the nearest U.S. embassy or consulate for directions on applying by mail. Your travel agent or airline office may also be able to provide you with visa applications and instructions. The U.S. consulate or embassy that issues your visa will determine whether you will be issued a multiple- or single-entry visa and any restrictions regarding the length of your stay. MEDICAL REQUIREMENTS Unless you’re arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States. If you have a medical condition that requires syringe-administered medications, carry a valid signed prescription from your physician—the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) no longer allows airline passengers to pack syringes in their carry-on baggage without documented proof of medical need. If you have a disease that requires treatment with narcotics, you should also carry documented proof with you—smuggling narcotics aboard a plane is a serious offense that carries severe penalties in the U.S. For HIV-positive visitors, requirements for entering the United States are somewhat vague and change frequently. According to the latest publication of HIV and Immigrants: A Manual for AIDS Service Providers, the Immigration and Naturalization Service (INS) doesn’t require a medical exam for entry into the United States, but INS officials may stop individuals because they look sick or because they are carrying AIDS/HIV medicine. For further up-to-theminute information, contact the AIDSInfo (& 800/448-0440 or 301/519-6616; www.aidsinfo.nih.gov) or the Gay Men’s Health Crisis (& 212/367-1000; www.gmhc.org). DRIVER’S LICENSES Foreign driver’s licenses are mostly recognized in the U.S., although you may want to get an international driver’s license if your home license is not written in English.

PASSPORT INFORMATION Safeguard your passport in an inconspicuous, inaccessible place like a money belt. Make a copy of the critical pages, including the passport number, and store it in a safe place, separate from the passport itself. If you lose your passport, visit the nearest consulate of your native country as soon as possible for a replacement.

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Note that the International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) has recommended a policy requiring that every individual who travels by air have his or her own passport. In response, many countries are now requiring that children must be issued their own passport to travel internationally, where before those under 16 or so may have been allowed to travel on a parent or guardian’s passport.

CUSTOMS WHAT YOU CAN BRING IN Every visitor over 21 years of age may bring in, duty-free, the following: (1) 1 liter of wine or hard liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 150 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. In addition, you cannot bring fresh fruits and vegetables into Hawaii, even if you’re coming from the U.S. mainland and have no need to clear Customs. Every passenger is asked shortly before landing to sign a certificate declaring that he or she does not have fresh fruits and vegetables in his or her possession. Foreign tourists may bring in or take out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs upon entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. Declare any medicines you are carrying and be prepared to present a letter or prescription from your doctor demonstrating you need the drugs; you may bring in no more than you would normally use in the duration of your visit. For many more details on what you can and cannot bring, check the informative U.S. Customs website at www.customs.ustreas.gov and click “Traveler Information,” or call & 202/927-1770. W H AT YO U C A N TA K E H O M E

Rules governing what you can bring back duty-free vary from country to country, and are subject to change, but they’re generally posted on the Internet. U.K. citizens should contact HM Customs & Excise at & 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk. For a clear summary of Canadian rules, request the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Customs and Revenue Agency (& 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.ccra-adrc. gc.ca). A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call

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the Australian Customs Service at & 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au. New Zealand citizens should request the pamphlet New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4 from New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (& 0800/428-786 or 04/473-6099; www.customs.govt.nz).

INSURANCE Although it’s not required of travelers, health insurance is highly recommended. Unlike many European countries, the United States does not usually offer free or low-cost medical care to its citizens or visitors. Doctors and hospitals are expensive, and in most cases will require advance payment or proof of coverage before they render their services. Policies can cover everything from the loss or theft of your baggage and trip cancellation to the guarantee of bail in case you’re arrested. Good policies will also cover the costs of an accident, repatriation, or death. Packages such as Europ Assistance’s “Worldwide Healthcare Plan” are sold by European automobile clubs and travel agencies at attractive rates. Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. (& 800/821-2828; www.worldwideassistance.com) is the agent for Europ Assistance in the United States.

MONEY CURRENCY The most common bills (all ugly, all green) are the $1 (colloquially, a “buck”), $5, $10, and $20 denominations. There are also $2 bills (seldom encountered), $50 bills, and $100 bills (the last two are usually not welcome as payment for small purchases). Note that redesigned bills were introduced in the last few years, but the old-style bills are still legal tender. There are seven denominations of coins: 1¢ (1 cent, or a penny); 5¢ (5 cents, or a nickel); 10¢ (10 cents, or a dime); 25¢ (25 cents, or a quarter); 50¢ (50 cents, or a half dollar); the new gold “Sacagawea” coin worth $1; and, prized by collectors, the rare, older silver dollar. EXCHANGING CURRENCY To exchange foreign currency on Maui, you’ll need to either go to a bank (call first to see if currency exchange is available) or use your hotel. CREDIT CARDS Credit cards are widely used in Hawaii. You can save yourself trouble by using plastic rather than cash or traveler’s checks in most hotels, restaurants, retail stores, and a growing number of food and liquor stores. You must have a credit card to rent a car in Hawaii.

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2 Getting to & Around the United States The only airline with direct flights from foreign cities to Maui is Air Canada (& 800/776-3000; www.aircanada.ca). Because of Maui’s short runway, most international visitors will have to fly to Honolulu first to clear Customs, then get an interisland flight to Kahului, Maui. Airlines serving Hawaii from places other than the U.S. mainland include Air Canada (& 800/776-3000; www.aircanada.ca); Air New Zealand (& 0800/737-000 in Auckland, 64-3/379-5200 in Christchurch, 800/926-7255 in the U.S.; www.airnewzealand. com), which runs 40 flights per week between Auckland and Hawaii; Qantas (& 008/177-767 in Australia, 800/227-4500 in the U.S.; www.qantas.com.au), which flies between Sydney and Honolulu daily (plus additional flights 4 days a week); Japan Air Lines (& 03/5489-1111 in Tokyo, 800/525-3663 in the U.S.; www.japanair.com); All Nippon Airways (ANA) (& 03/54891212 in Tokyo, 800/235-9262 in the U.S.; www.fly-ana.com); China Airlines (& 02/715-1212 in Taipei, 800/227-5118 in the U.S.; www.china-airlines.com); Air Pacific, serving Fiji, Australia, New Zealand, and the South Pacific (& 800/227-4446; www. airpacific.com); Korean Airlines (& 02/656-2000 in Seoul, 800/223-1155 on the East Coast, 800/421-8200 on the West Coast, 800/438-5000 from Hawaii; www.koreanair.com); and Philippine Airlines (& 631/816-6691 in Manila, 800/435-9725 in the U.S.; www.philippineair.com). Operated by the European Travel Network, www.discounttickets.com is a great online source for regular and discounted airfares to destinations around the world. You can also use this site to compare rates and book accommodations, car rentals, and tours. Click on “Special Offers” for the latest package deals. Students should also try Campus Travel (& 0870/240-1010 in England, 0131/668-3303 in Scotland). If you’re traveling in the United States beyond Hawaii, some large American airlines—such as American, Delta, Northwest, TWA, and United—offer travelers on transatlantic or transpacific flights special discount tickets under the name Visit USA, allowing travel between any U.S. destinations at reduced rates. These tickets must be purchased before you leave your foreign point of departure. This system is the best, easiest, and fastest way to see the United States at low cost. You should obtain information well in advance from your travel agent or the office of the airline concerned, since the conditions attached to these discount tickets can change without advance notice.

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Visitors arriving by air should cultivate patience and resignation before setting foot on U.S. soil. Getting through immigration control may take as long as 2 hours on some days, especially summer weekends. Add the time it takes to clear Customs, and you’ll see that you should make a very generous allowance for delay in planning connections between international and domestic flights—an average of 2 to 3 hours at least. After you have cleared Customs in Honolulu, hop a short, 20minute interisland flight. For further information about travel to Hawaii, see “Getting There” and “Getting Around” in chapter 1.

FAST FACTS: For International Visitors Automobile Organizations Auto clubs will supply maps, suggested routes, guidebooks, accident and bail-bond insurance, and emergency road service. The major auto club in the United States, with 955 offices nationwide, is the American Automobile Association (AAA; often called “Triple A”). Members of some foreign auto clubs have reciprocal arrangements with AAA and enjoy its services at no charge. If you belong to an auto club, inquire about AAA reciprocity before you leave. AAA can also provide you with an International Driving Permit validating your foreign license. You may be able to join AAA even if you are not a member of a reciprocal club. To inquire, call & 800/736-2886 or visit www.aaa.com. Some car-rental agencies now provide automobile club– type services, so inquire about their availability when you rent your car. Climate See “When to Go” in chapter 1. Electricity Hawaii, like the U.S. mainland and Canada, uses 110–120 volts (60 cycles), compared to the 220–240 volts (50 cycles) used in most of Europe and in other areas of the world, including Australia and New Zealand. Small appliances of non-American manufacture, such as hair dryers or shavers, will require a plug adapter with two flat, parallel pins; larger ones will require a 100-volt transformer. Embassies & Consulates All embassies are in Washington, D.C. Some countries have consulates general in major U.S. cities, and most have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn’t listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (& 202/555-1212), or point

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your Web browser to www.embassy.org/embassies for the location and phone number of your national embassy. The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (& 202/797-3000; www.austemb.org). There is also an Australian consulate in Hawaii at 1000 Bishop St., Penthouse Suite, Honolulu, HI 96813 (& 808/524-5050). The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (& 202/682-1740; www.canadian embassy.org). Canadian consulates are also at 1251 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10020 (& 212/596-1628), and at 550 South Hope St., 9th floor, Los Angeles, CA 90071 (& 213/ 346-2700). The embassy of Japan is at 2520 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (& 202/238-6700; www.embjapan.org). The consulate general of Japan is located at 1742 Nuuanu Ave., Honolulu, HI 96817 (& 808/543-3111). The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (& 202/328-4800; www.nzemb.org). The only New Zealand consulate in the United States is at 780 Third Ave., New York, NY 10017 (& 202/328-4800). The embassy of the Republic of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (& 202/462-3939; www.irelandemb.org). There’s a consulate office in San Francisco at 44 Montgomery St., Suite 3830, San Francisco, CA 94104 (& 415/392-4214). The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (& 202/588-6640; www. fco.gov.uk/directory). British consulates are at 845 Third Ave., New York, NY 10022 (& 212/745-0200), and 11766 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 400, Los Angeles, CA 90025 (& 310/477-3322). Emergencies Call & 911 to report a fire, call the police, or get an ambulance. Gasoline (Petrol) One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters, while 1.2 U.S. gallons equal 1 Imperial gallon. You’ll notice there are several grades (and price levels) of gasoline available at most gas stations. You’ll also notice that their names change from company to company. The ones with the highest octane are the most expensive, but most rental cars take the least expensive “regular” gas, with an octane rating of 87. Safety Although tourist areas are generally safe, visitors should always stay alert. It’s wise to ask the island tourist

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office if you’re in doubt about which neighborhoods are safe. Avoid deserted areas, especially at night. Generally speaking, you can feel safe in areas where there are many people and open establishments. Taxes The United States has no VAT (value-added tax) or other indirect taxes at a national level. Every state, and every city in it, has the right to levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks, airline tickets, and so on. In Hawaii, sales tax is 4%; there’s also a 7.25% hotel-room tax and a small excise tax, so the total tax on your hotel bill will be 11.42%. Telephone & Fax The telephone system in the United States is run by private corporations, so rates, particularly for long-distance service and operator-assisted calls, can vary widely— especially on calls made from public telephones. Local calls—that is, calls to other locations on the island you’re on— made from public phones in Hawaii cost 50¢. Generally, hotel surcharges on long-distance and local calls are astronomical. You are usually better off using a public pay telephone, which you will find clearly marked in most public buildings and private establishments as well as on the street. Many convenience stores and newsstands sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. For calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the telephone number of the person you are calling. Some country and city codes are as follows: Australia 61, Melbourne 3, Sydney 2; Ireland 353, Dublin 1; New Zealand 64, Auckland 9, Wellington 4; United Kingdom 44, Belfast 232, Birmingham 21, Glasgow 41, London 71 or 81. If you’re calling the United States from another country, the country code is 1. In Hawaii, interisland phone calls are considered long-distance and are often as costly as calling the U.S. mainland. The international country code for Hawaii is 1, just as it is for the rest of the United States and Canada. For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-toperson calls, dial 0 (zero, not the letter “O”), followed by the

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area code and number you want; an operator will then come on the line, and you should specify that you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator. Note that all phone numbers with the area code 800, 888, 866, and 877 are toll-free. However, calls to numbers in area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, “dating” services, and so on) can be very expensive—usually a charge of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute. For local directory assistance (“information”), dial 411. For long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code and 555-1212; for directory assistance for another island, dial 1, then 808, then 555-1212. Fax facilities are widely available and can be found in most hotels and many other establishments. Try Mail Boxes, Etc. or Kinko’s (check the local Yellow Pages) or any photocopying shop. Telephone Directories There are two kinds of telephone directories in the United States. The general directory, the socalled White Pages, lists private and business subscribers in alphabetical order. The inside front cover lists the emergency numbers for police, fire, and ambulance, along with other vital numbers. The first few pages include a guide to longdistance and international calling, complete with country codes and area codes. The second directory, printed on yellow paper (hence its name, Yellow Pages), lists all local services, businesses, and industries by type of activity, with an index at the front. Tipping It’s part of the American way of life to tip. Many service employees receive little direct salary and must depend on tips for their income. The following are some general rules: In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per piece of luggage ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage), and tip the housekeeping staff $1 per person, per day. Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-toget theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 to $2 every time you get your car. In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff 15% to 20% of the check, tip bartenders 10% to 15%, and tip valetparking attendants $1 to $2 per vehicle. Tip the doorman only

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if he or she has provided you with some specific service (such as calling a cab for you). Tipping is not expected in cafeterias and fast-food restaurants. Tip cab drivers 15% of the fare. As for other service personnel, tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per piece of luggage ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage), and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%. Tipping ushers at theaters is not expected.

3 Where to Stay aui has accommodations to fit every taste and budget, from luxM ury oceanfront suites and historic bed-and-breakfasts to reasonably priced condos that will sleep a family of four. Before you book, be sure to read “The Island in Brief ” in chapter 1, which will help you settle on a location. Remember to consider when you will be traveling to the islands. The high season, during which rooms are always booked and rates are at the top end, runs from mid-December to March. A second high season, when rates are high but reservations are somewhat easier to get, is summer (late June to early Sept). The low seasons, with fewer tourists and cheaper rates, are April to early June and late September to mid-December. Remember to add Maui’s 11.42% accommodations tax to your final bill. Parking is free unless otherwise noted.

1 Central Maui KAHULUI If you’re arriving late at night or you have an early morning flight out, the best choice near Kahului Airport is the Maui Beach Hotel, 170 Kaahumanu Ave. (& 888/649-3222). The nondescript, motellike rooms go for $98 to $175 and include free airport shuttle service. It’s okay for a night, but not a place to spend your vacation.

WAILUKU Old Wailuku Inn at Ulupono This 1924 former planFinds tation manager’s home, lovingly restored by innkeepers Janice and Thomas Fairbanks, offers a genuine old Hawaii experience. The spacious rooms are gorgeously outfitted with exotic ohia-wood floors, high ceilings, and traditional Hawaiian quilts. The mammoth bathrooms (some with claw-foot tubs, others with Jacuzzis) have plush towels and earth-friendly toiletries on hand. A full gourmet breakfast is served on the enclosed back lanai or, if you prefer, delivered to your room. You’ll feel right at home lounging in an old wicker chair on the lanai. The inn is located in the old historic area of

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Wailuku, just a few minutes’ walk from the Maui County Seat Government Building, the courthouse, and a wonderful stretch of shops. 2199 Kahookele St. (at High St., across from the Wailuku School), Wailuku, HI 96732. & 800/305-4899 or 808/244-5897. Fax 808/242-9600. www.mauiinn. com. 7 units. $120–$180 double. Rates include full breakfast. Extra person $20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Jacuzzi; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport.

2 West Maui LAHAINA M O D E R AT E Best Western Pioneer Inn This hotel is a two-story plantation-

style structure with big verandas that overlook the streets of Lahaina and the harbor, a short distance away. All rooms have been totally remodeled, with vintage bathrooms and new curtains and carpets. The quietest rooms face either the garden courtyard—devoted to refined outdoor dining accompanied by live (but quiet) music—or the squareblock–size banyan tree next door. We recommend room no. 31, over the banyan court, with a view of the ocean and the harbor. 658 Wharf St. (in front of Lahaina Pier), Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/457-5457 or 808/661-3636. Fax 808/667-5708. www.pioneerinnmaui.com. 34 units. $115–$200 double. Extra person $10. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $4 in lot 2 blocks away. Amenities: Restaurant (good for breakfast); bar with live music; outdoor pool; big shopping arcade; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

This immaculate Finds 7,000-square-foot contemporary home, in a quiet residential subdivision at the north end of town, is popular with visitors from around the world. The oversize rooms are fresh and quiet, with white ceramic-tile floors, handmade koa furniture, Hawaiian quilt bedspreads, and Hawaiiana theme; the four downstairs rooms all open onto flower-filled private patios. Guests share the fully equipped guest kitchen and barbecue area, and are welcome to curl up on the living-room sofa with a book from the library. The nearest beach is about a 5-minute drive away, and tennis courts are nearby. Around the pool is a thatch hut for weekly hula performances, an imu pit for luaus, and an area that’s perfect for Hawaiian weddings.

House of Fountains Bed & Breakfast

1579 Lokia St. (off Fleming Rd., north of Lahaina town), Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/7 89-6865 or 808/667-2121. Fax 808/667-2120. www.alohahouse.com. 6 units (shower only). $95–$145 double. Rates include full breakfast. Extra person $20. DISC, MC, V (additional 5% charge if using credit card). From Hwy. 30, take the Fleming Rd.

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exit; turn left on Ainakea; after 2 blocks, turn right on Malanai St.; go 3 blocks, and turn left onto Lokia St. Amenities: Outdoor pool; Jacuzzi; washer/dryers. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, no phone.

Lahaina Inn If you like old hotels that have genuine historic touches, you’ll love this place. As in many old hotels, some of these Victorian antique–stuffed rooms are small; if that’s a problem for you, ask for a larger unit. All come with private bathrooms and lanais. The best room in the house is no. 7 ($109), which overlooks the beach, the town, and the island of Lanai. There’s an excellent, though unaffiliated, restaurant in the same building (David Paul’s Lahaina Grill, p. 82), with a bar downstairs. 127 Lahainaluna Rd. (near Front St.), Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/669-3444 or 808/ 661-0577. Fax 808/667-9480. www.lahainainn.com. 12 units (most bathrooms have shower only). $109–$169 double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Next-door parking $5. No children under age 15. Amenities: Concierge; activity desk. In room: A/C. Value Ohana Maui Islander This wooden complex’s units, especially those with kitchenettes, are one of Lahaina’s great buys. The larger ones are great for families on a budget. The property isn’t on the beach, but on a quiet side street (a rarity in Lahaina) and within walking distance of restaurants, shops, attractions, and, yes, the beach (just 3 blocks away). All of the good-size rooms, decorated in tropical-island style, are comfortable and quiet. The entire complex is spread across 10 landscaped acres and includes a sun deck, a barbecue, and a picnic area. The aloha-friendly staff will take the time to answer all of your questions.

660 Wainee St. (between Dickenson and Prison sts.), Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/ 462-6262 or 808/667-9766. Fax 808/661-3733. www.ohanahotels.com. 317 units. $149 double; $179 studio with kitchenette; $199 1-bedroom with kitchen (sleeps up to 4); $279 2-bedroom with kitchen (sleeps 6). Extra rollaway bed $18, free cribs. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $3. Amenities: Outdoor pool; tennis courts (lit for night play until 10pm); activity desk; coin-op washer/dryers. In room: A/C, TV, kitchenettes (in some units), fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

Attention, romance-seeking couFinds ples: Look no further. This charming Victorian-style inn, located a couple of blocks from the water, looks like it’s been here 100 years or more, but it’s actually of 1990s vintage—an artful deception. The rooms are romantic to the max, tastefully done with period furniture, hardwood floors, stained glass, and ceiling fans. There are fourposter canopy beds and armoires in some rooms, brass beds and wicker in others. All units are soundproof (a plus in Lahaina) and

The Plantation Inn

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ACCOMMODATIONS Best Western Pioneer Inn 18 Guest House 9 House of Fountains Bed & Breakfast 10 Hyatt Regency Maui 8 Kaanapali Alii 5 Kaanapali Beach Hotel 3 Lahaina Inn 14 Maui Eldorado Resort 2 Ohana Maui Islander 20 The Plantation Inn 15 Puamana 22 Sheraton Maui 1 Wai Ola Vacation Paradise on Maui 11 Westin Maui 7 The Whaler on Kaanapali Beach 4

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come with a private lanai; the suites have kitchenettes. The rooms wrap around the large pool and deck. Also on the property is Gerard’s (p. 84), an outstanding French restaurant (it can be pricey, but hotel guests get a discount on dinner). Breakfast is served around the pool and in the elegant pavilion lounge. 174 Lahainaluna Rd. (between Wainee and Luakini sts. 1 block from Hwy. 30), Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/433-6815 or 808/667-9225. Fax 808/667-9293. www. theplantationinn.com. 19 units (some bathrooms with shower only). $152–$245 double. Rates include full breakfast. Extra person $20. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Acclaimed restaurant and bar; large outdoor pool and Jacuzzi; concierge; activity desk; coin-op washer/dryers. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, kitchenettes (in suites), fridge, hair dryer, iron, safe.

These 28 acres of town houses set right on the water are ideal for those who want to retreat from the crowds and cacophony of downtown Lahaina into the serene quiet of an elegant neighborhood. Private and peaceful are apt descriptions for this complex: Each unit is a privately owned individual home, with no neighbors above or below. Most are exquisitely decorated, and all come with full kitchen, lanai, and barbecue. Puamana was once a private estate in the 1920s, part of the sugar plantations that dominated Lahaina; the plantation manager’s house has been converted into a clubhouse with an oceanfront lanai, library, card room, sauna, table-tennis tables, and office. One warning: The rental office is not on-site, which has caused some problems with guests getting assistance.

Puamana

Front St. (at the extreme southern end of Lahaina, 1⁄ 2 mile from downtown). Reservations c/o Klahani Travel, Lahaina Cannery Mall, 1221 Honoapiilani Hwy., Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/669-6284 or 808/667-2712. Fax 808/661-5875. www.klahanitravel.com. 40 units. $125–$200 1-bedroom; $150–$275 2-bedroom; $300–$500 3bedroom. 3-night minimum. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 pools (1 for adults only); tennis court; Jacuzzi; game room; activity desk; on-site laundry. In room: TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, washer/dryer (in some units).

Wai Ola Vacation Paradise on Maui Just 2 blocks from the beach, in a quiet, residential development behind a tall concrete wall, lies this lovely retreat, with shade trees, sitting areas, gardens, a pool, an ocean mural, and a range of accommodations (a suite inside the 5,000 sq. ft. home, a separate studio cottage, a one-bedroom apartment, or the entire house). Hostess Julie Frank is a veteran innkeeper who knows how to provide comfortable accommodations and memorable vacations. You’ll also find a deck, barbecue facilities, and an outdoor wet bar on the property; tennis courts are nearby. Ask about her honeymoon package. Kuuipo St. (P.O. Box 12580), Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800-/492-4652 or 808/6617901. Fax 808/661-7901. www.waiola.com. 5 units. $135 suite; $150 1-bedroom

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apt.; $175 cottage; $550-$850 house. 5-night minimum. Extra person $15. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor pool; Jacuzzi; complimentary use of watersports equipment; free self-service washer/dryers. In room: A/C, TV/DVD/VCR, dataport, kitchenette, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

INEXPENSIVE Guest House

This is one of Lahaina’s great bed-andFinds breakfast deals: a charming house with more amenities than the expensive Kaanapali hotels just down the road. The roomy home features parquet floors and floor-to-ceiling windows; its swimming pool—surrounded by a deck and comfortable lounge chairs—is larger than some at high-priced condos. Every guest room has a quiet lanai and a romantic hot tub. The large kitchen (with every gadget imaginable) and high-speed Internet access computers are available for guests’ use. The Guest House also operates Trinity Tours and offers discounts on car rentals and just about every island activity. Tennis courts are nearby, and the nearest beach is about a block away. 1620 Ainakea Rd. (off Fleming Rd., north of Lahaina town), Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/621-8942 or 808/661-8085. Fax 808/661-1896. www.mauiguesthouse. com. 4 units. $129 double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Take Fleming Rd. off Hwy. 30; turn left on Ainakea; it’s 2 blocks down. Amenities: Huge outdoor pool; watersports equipment rentals; concierge; activity desk; car-rental desk; self-service washer/dryers. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, fridge, Jacuzzi.

KAANAPALI VERY EXPENSIVE Kaanapali Alii

Kids These luxurious oceanfront condominium units sit on 8 landscaped acres right on Kaanapali Beach. Kaanapali Alii combines all the amenities of a luxury hotel (including a 24-hr. front desk) with the convenience of a condominium. Each of the one-bedroom (1,500 sq. ft.) and two-bedroom (1,900 sq. ft.) units is impeccably decorated and comes with all the comforts of home (fully equipped kitchen, washer/dryer, lanai, two full bathrooms) and then some (room service, daily maid service, complimentary local newspaper). The beachside recreation area includes a swimming pool, plus a separate children’s pool, whirlpool, gas barbecue grills and picnic areas, exercise rooms, saunas, and tennis courts.

50 Nohea Kai Dr., Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/642-6284 or 808/661-3330. Fax 808/ 667-1145. www.kaanapali-alii.com. 264 units. $350–$525 1-bedroom for 4; $475–$740 2-bedroom for 6; $900 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Poolside cafe; 2 outdoor pools; 36-hole golf course; 3 lighted tennis courts; fitness center; Jacuzzi; watersports equipment rentals; children’s program; game room; concierge; activity desk; room service; in-room massage; babysitting; sameday dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, washer/dryers.

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Kids Sheraton Maui Terrific facilities for families and fitness buffs and a premier beach location make this beautiful resort an allaround great place to stay. The grande dame of Kaanapali Beach is built into the side of a cliff on the white-sand cove next to Black Rock (a lava formation that rises 80 ft. above the beach), where there’s excellent snorkeling. After its recent renovation, the resort is virtually new, with six buildings of six stories or less set in wellestablished tropical gardens. The new lagoonlike pool features lavarock waterways, wooden bridges, and an open-air whirlpool. But not everything has changed, thankfully. Cliff divers still swan dive off the torch-lit lava-rock headland in a traditional sunset ceremony—a sight to see. And the views of Kaanapali Beach, with Lanai and Molokai in the distance, are some of the best around. The new emphasis is on family appeal, with a class of rooms dedicated to those traveling with kids. Every unit is outfitted with amenities galore, right down to toothbrushes and toothpaste.

2605 Kaanapali Pkwy., Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/782-9488 or 808/661-0031. Fax 808/661-0458. www.sheraton-maui.com. 510 units. $350–$750 double; from $825 suite. Extra person $50; children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding. “Resort fee” of $10 for self-parking, “free” local calls and creditcard calls, in-room safe, lei greeting, daily coffee and newspaper, use of fitness center, and kids’ program. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $5. Amenities: 3 restaurants; snack bar; 3 bars; 2 huge outdoor pools; 36-hole golf course; 3 tennis courts; fitness center; Jacuzzi; watersports equipment rentals; children’s program; game room; concierge; activity desk; car-rental desk; business center; shopping arcade; salon; limited room service (6:30am–10:30pm); in-room massage; babysitting; coin-op washer/dryers; same-day laundry service and dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe. Kids In addition to having a great location on the beach, the Westin Maui is a great place to sleep. The rooms are outfitted with fabulous new beds (Westin’s custom-designed, pillowtop “heavenly beds”), plus a choice of five different pillows. Once you get up, you’ll find the “aquatic playground”—an 87,000square-foot pool area with five amazing free-form heated pools joined by swim-through grottoes, waterfalls, and a 128-foot-long water slide—sets this resort apart from its peers along lovely Kaanapali Beach. This is the Disney World of water-park resorts, and your kids will be in water-hog heaven. The fantasy theme extends from the estate-like grounds into the interior’s public spaces, which are filled with the shrieks of tropical birds and the splash of waterfalls. The oversize architecture, requisite colonnade, and $2 million art collection make a pleasing backdrop for all the action.

Westin Maui

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2365 Kaanapali Pkwy., Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/WESTIN-1 or 808/667-2525. Fax 808/661-5764. 758 units. www.westinmaui.com. $350–$630 double; from $800 suite. Extra person $45. “Resort fee” of $10 for “free” local calls, use of fitness center, coffee and tea, and local paper. Parking $5. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 3 bars; 5 free-form outdoor pools; 36-hole golf course; tennis courts; health club and spa with aerobics, steam baths, sauna, massage, and body treatments; Jacuzzi; watersports equipment rentals; bike rental; children’s program; game room; concierge; activity desk; car-rental desk; business center; shopping arcade; salon; limited room service; massage; babysitting; coin-op washer/dryers; same-day laundry/dry cleaning; concierge-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

EXPENSIVE Hyatt Regency Maui

Kids Spa-goers will love this resort. Hawaii’s first oceanfront spa, the Spa Moana, opened here in 2000 with some 9,000 square feet of facilities. Book your treatment before you leave home—this place is popular. The management has poured some $19 million in renovations to rooms in this fantasy resort. It certainly has lots of imaginative touches, like the flamingoes, penguins, parrots and macaws in the lobby and an eclectic Asian and Pacific art collection. The 40-acre resort includes a half-acre outdoor pool with a 150-foot lava tube slide, a cocktail bar under the falls, and a swinging rope bridge. There’s even a children-only pool with its own beach, tidal pools, and fountains. The rooms, spread out among three towers, are pleasantly outfitted with an array of amenities, and have very comfortable separate sitting areas and private lanais with eye-popping views. The very romantic Swan Court (p. 88) is not to be missed for a special dinner. Two Regency Club floors have a private concierge, complimentary breakfast, sunset cocktails, and snacks.

200 Nohea Kai Dr., Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/233-1234 or 808/661-1234. Fax 808/667-4714. www.maui.hyatt.com. 806 units. $345–$565 double; $585–$650 Regency Club; from $850 suite. All rooms are charged a mandatory $12 “resort fee” for access to spa, local phone calls, daily local paper, in-room coffee and tea, inroom safe, and 1-hr. tennis court time. Extra person $35 ($50 in Regency Club rooms). Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding. Packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $10, free self-parking. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 2 bars; a half-acre-size outdoor pool; 36-hole golf course; 6 tennis courts; health club with weight room; brand-new, state-of-the-art spa; Jacuzzi; watersports equipment rentals; bike rental; Camp Hyatt kids’ program, offering supervised activities for 5- to 12-year-olds; game room; concierge; activity desk; car-rental desk; business center; big shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; in-room or spa massage; babysitting; coin-op washer/dryers; laundry service; dry cleaning; concierge-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, 2-line phone, minibar, fridge (on request), coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

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Kids Maui Eldorado Resort These spacious condominium units—each with a full kitchen and daily maid service—were built when land in Kaanapali was cheap, contractors took pride in their work, and visitors expected large, spacious units with views from every window. You’ll find it hard to believe that this was one of Kaanapali’s first properties in the late 1960s, as this first-class choice still looks like new. The Outrigger chain has managed to keep prices down to reasonable levels, especially if you come in spring or fall. This is a great choice for families, with its big units, grassy areas that are perfect for running off excess energy, and a beachfront (with beach cabanas and a barbecue area) that’s usually safe for swimming. Tennis courts are nearby.

2661 Kekaa Dr., Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/688-7444 or 808/661-0021. Fax 808/ 667-7039. www.outrigger.com. 98 units. $195–$240 studio double; $245–$295 1-bedroom (rates for up to 4); $355–$425 2-bedroom (rates for up to 6). Numerous packages available, including free 5th night, rental-car packages, senior rates, and more. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 outdoor pools; 36-hole golf course; concierge; activity desk; car-rental desk; some business services; babysitting; coinop washer/dryers. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, washer/dryer (in some units).

The Whaler on Kaanapali Beach In the heart of Kaanapali, right on the world-famous beach, lies this oasis of elegance, privacy, and luxury. The relaxing atmosphere strikes you as soon as you enter the open-air lobby, where light reflects off the dazzling koi in the meditative lily pond. No expense has been spared on these gorgeous accommodations; each unit has a full kitchen, washer/dryer, marble bathroom, 10-foot beamed ceilings, and blue-tiled lanai. Every unit boasts spectacular views of Kaanapali’s gentle waves or the humpback peaks of the West Maui Mountains. Next door is Whalers Village, with numerous restaurants, bars, and shops; Kaanapali Golf Club’s 36 holes are across the street. 2481 Kaanapali Pkwy. (next to Whalers Village), Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/ 922-7866 or 808/661-4861. Fax 808/661-8315. www.whalermaui.com. 360 units. High season $235–$255 studio double; $330–$485 1-bedroom (rate for up to 4 people); $535–$700 2-bedroom (up to 6). Low season $205–$230 studio double; $275–$415 1-bedroom; $435–$570 2-bedroom. Check Internet for specials. Extra person $20; crib $12. 2-night minimum. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor pool; 5 tennis courts; fitness room; Jacuzzi; watersports equipment rentals; concierge; activity desk; car-rental desk; babysitting; coin-op washer/dryers; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, washer/dryer.

M O D E R AT E Kaanapali Beach Hotel

Value It’s older and less high-tech than its upscale neighbors, but the Kaanapali has an irresistible local

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style and a real Hawaiian warmth. Three low-rise wings, bordering a fabulous stretch of beach, are set around a wide, grassy lawn with coco palms and a whale-shaped pool. The spacious, spotless motellike rooms are done in wicker and rattan, with Hawaiian-style bedspreads and lanais. The beachfront rooms are separated from the water only by a landscaped walking trail. Old Hawaii values and customs are always close at hand, and the service is some of the friendliest around. Tiki torches, hula, and Hawaiian music create a festive atmosphere in the expansive open courtyard every night. As part of the hotel’s extensive Hawaiiana program, you can learn to cut pineapple, weave lauhala, or dance the hula. There’s also an arts-and-crafts fair 3 days a week and a Hawaiian library. 2525 Kaanapali Pkwy., Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/262-8450 or 808/661-0011. Fax 808/667-5978. www.kbhmaui.com. 430 units. $195–$290 double; from $235 suite. Extra person $25. Car, golf, bed-and-breakfast, and romance packages available, as well as senior discounts. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $7, self-parking $5. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars (including a poolside bar that fixes a mean piña colada); outdoor pool; 36-hole golf course; access to tennis courts; Jacuzzi; watersports equipment rentals; children’s program; game room; concierge; activity desk; car-rental desk; business center; convenience shops; salon; limited room service; babysitting; coin-op washer/dryers. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, coffeemaker, iron, safe.

HONOKOWAI, KAHANA & NAPILI EXPENSIVE Napili Kai Beach Resort

Just south of the Bay Club Finds restaurant in Kapalua, nestled in a small white-sand cove, lies this comfortable oceanfront complex. The one- and two-story units with double-hipped Hawaii-style roofs face their very own gold-sand beach, which is safe for swimming. Many units have a view of the Pacific. The older beachfront Lahaina Building units—with ceiling fans only—are a good buy starting at $225. Those who prefer air-conditioning should book into the Honolua Building, where, for the same price, you’ll get a fully air-conditioned room set near a parklike lawn and pool. Every unit (except eight hotel rooms) has a fully stocked kitchenette with full-size fridge, cooktop, microwave, toaster oven, washer/dryer, and coffeemaker; some have dishwashers as well. On-site pluses include daily maid service, even in the condo units; two shuffleboard courts; barbecue areas; complimentary morning coffee; free tea in the lobby every afternoon; weekly lei making, hula lessons, and horticultural tours; and a free weekly

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mai tai party. There are three nearby championship golf courses and excellent tennis courts at next-door Kapalua Resort. 5900 Honoapiilani Rd. (at the extreme north end of Napili, next to Kapalua), Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/367-5030 or 808/669-6271. Fax 808/669-0086. www. napilikai.com. 163 units. $190–$225 hotel room double; $220–$305 studio double; $360–$410 1-bedroom suite (sleeps up to 4); $525–$675 2-bedroom (sleeps 6). Packages available. Extra person $15. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Well-recommended restaurant (Sea House, p. 90); bar; 4 outdoor pools; 2 18-hole putting greens (with free golf putters for guest use); complimentary use of tennis racquets; good-size fitness room, filled with the latest equipment; Jacuzzi; complimentary watersports equipment; free children’s activities at Easter, June 15–Aug 31, and at Christmas; concierge; activity desk; babysitting; coin-op washer/dryers; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C (in most units, but not all), TV, kitchenette, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

M O D E R AT E Kids Hale Kai

This small, two-story condo complex is ideally located, right on the beach and next door to a county park. Shops, restaurants, and ocean activities are all within a 6-mile radius. The units are older but in excellent shape, and come with well-equipped kitchens (with dishwasher, disposal, microwave, even a blender), and louvered windows that open to the trade winds. Lots of guests clamor for the oceanfront pool units, but we find the park-view units cooler, and they still have ocean views (upstairs units also have cathedral ceilings). This place fills up fast, so book early; repeat guests make up most of the clientele. 3691 Lower Honoapiilani Rd. (in Honokowai), Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/ 446-7307 or 808/669-6333. Fax 808/669-7474. www.halekai.com. 23 units. High season $120 1-bedroom double; $150–$155 2-bedroom (rates for up to 4); $200 3-bedroom (up to 6). Low season $105 1-bedroom; $135–$140 2-bedroom; $200 3-bedroom. Extra person $15. 3-night minimum. MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor pool; concierge; car-rental desk; coin-op washer/dryers. In room: TV/VCR, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron. Kids Kahana Sunset This series of wooden condo units on Lower Honoapiilani Road stair-step down the side of a hill to a postcard-perfect white-sand beach. The unique location, nestled between the coastline and the road above, makes this a very private place to stay. In the midst of the buildings sits a grassy lawn with a small pool and Jacuzzi; down by the sandy beach are gazebos and picnic areas with barbecues. The units feature full kitchens (complete with dishwashers), washer/dryers, large lanais with terrific views, and sleeper sofas. This is a great complex for families: The beach is safe for swimming, the grassy area is away from traffic, and the units are roomy.

Accommodations & Dining from Honokowai to Kapalua . Plantation Estates Dr

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4909 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy. (at the northern end of Kahana, almost in Napili). c/o P.O. Box 10219 Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/669-1488 or 808/669-8011. Fax 808/669-9170. www.kahanasunset.com. 79 units, 49 in rental pool. $130–$240 1-bedroom (sleeps up to 4); $175–$370 2-bedroom (sleeps 6). 2-night minimum. AE, MC, V. From Hwy. 30, turn makai (toward the ocean) at the Napili Plaza (Napilihau St.), then left on Lower Honoapiilani Rd. Amenities: 2 outdoor pools (1 just for children); concierge. In room: TV, kitchen, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe (in some units), washer/dryer.

Maui Sands The Maui Sands was built back when property wasn’t as expensive and developers took the extra time and money to surround their condos with lush landscaping. It’s hard to get a unit with a bad view: All face either the ocean (with views of Lanai and Molokai) or tropical gardens blooming with brilliant heliconia, flowering hibiscus, and sweet-smelling ginger. Each roomy unit has a big lanai and a full kitchen. With two big bedrooms, plus space in the living room for a fifth person (or even a 6th), the larger units are good deals for families. There’s a narrow beach out front. Maui Resort Management, 3600 Lower Honoapiilani Rd. (in Honokowai), Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/367-5037 or 808/669-1902. Fax 808/669-8790. www.mauigetaway. com. 76 units. $105–$145 1-bedroom (sleeps up to 3); $150–$210 2-bedroom (sleeps 5). Extra person $10. 7-night minimum. MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor pool; coin-op washer/dryer. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker.

The family that built this low-rise hotel in 1961 has restored the studio units to their original old Hawaiian style. The Mauian is perched above a beautiful halfmile long white-sand beach with great swimming and snorkeling; there’s a pool with chaise lounges, umbrellas, and tables on the sun deck; and the verdant grounds are bursting with tropical color. The rooms feature hardwood floors, Indonesian-style furniture, and big lanais with great views. Thoughtful little touches include fresh flowers in rooms upon arrival, plus chilled champagne for guests celebrating a special occasion. There are no phones and no TVs in the rooms, but the large Ohana (family) room does have a TV with a VCR and an extensive library. There’s complimentary coffee, great restaurants are just a 5-minute walk away, and Kapalua Resort is up the street. The nightly sunsets off the beach are spectacular.

Mauian Hotel on Napili Beach

5441 Lower Honoapiilani Rd. (in Napili), Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/367-5034 or 808/669-6205. Fax 808/669-0129. www.mauian.com. 44 units. High season $165–$195 double; low season $145–$180 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Extra 3rd person $10; 4th person $15. Children under 5 stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor pool; golf course; tennis courts; concierge; activity desk; business center; coin-op washer/dryer. In room: Kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker; no phone.

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This well-maintained, superbly Finds landscaped condo complex has a great location on Napili Beach. Facilities include two pools, three shuffleboard courts, and three gas barbecue grills. The well-furnished units (all with full kitchens) were renovated in 1997. Free daily maid service, a rarity in condo properties, keeps the units clean. Management encourages socializing: In addition to weekly mai tai parties and coffee socials, the resort hosts annual shuffleboard and golf tournaments, as well as get-togethers on July 4th, Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s. Many guests arrange their travel plans around these events at the Napili Surf.

Napili Surf Beach Resort

50 Napili Place (off Lower Honoapiilani Rd., in Napili), Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/ 541-0638 or 808/669-8002. Fax 808/669-8004. www.napilisurf.com. 53 units (some with shower only). $135–$195 studio (sleeps up to 3); $210–$285 1-bedroom (sleeps up to 4). Extra person $15. No credit cards. Amenities: 2 freshwater swimming pools; washer/dryers. In room: TV/VCR, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, iron, safe, washer/dryer (in larger units).

This oceanfront Finds Kids condo is a great value, whether you stay in a studio or a three-bedroom unit (ideal for large families). Everything is first-class, from the furnishings to the oceanfront location. Though it’s on the water, there’s no sandy beach here (despite the photos posted on their website)—but next door is a sandy cove at the new county park, opened in 2001. All units feature complete kitchens, entertainment centers, and spectacular views (the one-, two-, and three-bedroom units also have their own washer/dryers and dishwashers). Our favorites are in the Anthurium Building, where the condos have oceanfront lanais just 20 feet from the water. Frugal travelers will love the deluxe studios in the Orchid Building, with great ocean views and all the amenities for just $107 in the low season and $122 in high season. Guests are invited to mai tai parties at night; there are also oceanfront barbecue grills for guest use.

Noelani Condominium Resort

4095 Lower Honoapiilani Rd. (in Kahana), Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/367-6030 or 808/669-8374. Fax 808/669-7904. www.noelani-condo-resort.com. 50 units. $107–$135 studio double; $147–$165 1-bedroom (sleeps up to 4); $217 2-bedroom (sleeps 4); $267 3-bedroom (sleeps 6). Rates include continental breakfast on first morning. Extra person $10. Children under 18 stay free in parent’s room. Packages for honeymooners, seniors, and AAA members available. 3-night minimum. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 freshwater swimming pools (1 heated for night swimming); access to nearby health club; oceanfront Jacuzzi; concierge; activity desk; car-rental desk; coin-op washer/dryers. In room: TV/VCR, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, washer/dryer (in larger units).

INEXPENSIVE

Frugal travelers should also consider the Hale Maui Apartment Hotel (& 808/669-6312; fax 808/669-1302; www.maui.net/~halemaui),

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a wonderful tiny apartment hotel run by Hans and Eva Zimmerman, whose spirit is 100% aloha. All their one-bedroom suites, which run $85 to $95 double, come with ceiling fans, private lanai, and complete kitchens. There’s no pool, but a private path leads to a great swimming beach. Napili Bay One of Maui’s best secret bargains is this Finds small, two-story complex right on Napili’s beautiful half-mile whitesand beach. The beach here is one of the best on the coast, with great swimming and snorkeling—in fact, it’s so beautiful that people staying at much more expensive resorts down the road frequently haul all their beach paraphernalia here for the day. The studio apartments are definitely small, but they pack in everything you need to feel at home, from a full kitchen to a comfortable queen bed, and a roomy lanai that’s great for watching the sun set over the Pacific. There’s no air-conditioning, but louvered windows and ceiling fans help keep the units cool during the day. There are lots of restaurants and a convenience store within walking distance, and you’re about 10 to 15 minutes away from Lahaina and some great golf courses. All this for as little as $110 a night—unbelievable! Book early, and tell ’em Frommer’s sent you. 33 Hui Dr. (off Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., in Napili). c/o Maui Beachfront Rentals, 256 Papalaua St., Lahaina, HI 96767. & 888/661-7200 or 808/661-3500. Fax 808/661-5210. www.mauibeachfront.com. 33 units. $110–$140 studio for up to 4. 5-night minimum. MC, V. Amenities: Coin-op washer/dryers. In room: TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker. Value Housed in three buildings (two on the ocean and one across the street) and located just down the street from Napili Bay, these clean, older, but well-maintained units offer good value. At first glance, the plain two-story structures don’t look like much, but the location, the bargain prices, and the friendly staff are the real hidden treasures here. In addition to daily maid service, the units all have full kitchens (with dishwashers), ceiling fans, sofa beds, small dining areas, and small bedrooms. The beach is one of Maui’s best, and therefore can get a little crowded. The studio units are all located in the building off the beach and a few steps up a slight hill; they’re good-size, with a full kitchen and either a sofa bed or a Murphy bed, and they overlook the small pool and garden. The one- and two-bedroom units are all on the beach (the downstairs units have lanais that lead right to the sand). The staff makes sure each unit has the basics—paper towels, dishwasher soap, coffee

Napili Sunset

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filters, condiments—to get your stay off to a good start. There are restaurants within walking distance. 46 Hui Rd. (in Napili), Lahaina, HI 96761. & 800/447-9229 or 808/669-8083. Fax 808/669-2730. www.napilisunset.com. 42 units. High season $120 studio double; $225 1-bedroom double; $315 2-bedroom (sleeps up to 4). Low season $105 studio; $205 1-bedroom; $265 2-bedroom. Extra person $12. Children under 3 stay free in parent’s room. 3-night minimum. MC, V. Amenities: Small outdoor pool; coin-op washer/dryers (free detergent supplied). In room: TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker.

KAPALUA VERY EXPENSIVE Kapalua Bay Hotel & Ocean Villas

Kids The Kapalua Bay sits seaward of 23,000 acres of green fields lined with spiky Norfolk pine windbreaks. The 1970s-style building, down by the oftenwindy shore, is full of angles that frame stunning views of the ocean, mountains, and blue sky. The tastefully designed maze of oversize rooms fronts a palm-fringed gold-sand beach that’s one of the best in Hawaii, and there’s an excellent Ben Crenshaw golf course. Each guest room has a sitting area with sofa, a king or two double beds, and an entertainment center. Private lanais with views of Molokai across the channel. The renovated bathrooms feature two granite vanities, a large soaking tub, and a glass-enclosed shower. The good news is that unlike some other luxury resorts, the Kapalua Bay has waved the obnoxious and not-very-hospitable “resort fee”; the bad news is that they now charge for parking (self or valet) at the outrageous rate of $15 a day.

1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, HI 96761. & 800/367-8000 or 808/669-5656. Fax 808/ 669-4694. www.kapaluabayhotel.com. 206 units. $350–$600 double; from $500 1and 2-bedroom bay villas; from $1200 suites. Extra person $75. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding. Parking $15. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; 2 outdoor pools; access to the Kapalua Resort’s acclaimed trio of golf courses (each with its own pro shop); 10 Plexi-pave tennis courts for day and night play; 24-hr. fitness facilities; small spa; Jacuzzi; watersports equipment rentals; children’s program for kids age 5–12, offering activities ranging from snorkeling and surfing to lei-making and cookie-baking; concierge; activity desk; car-rental desk; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; in-room and spa massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service and dry cleaning; concierge-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe. Kids The Ritz is a complete universe, one of those resorts where you can happily sit by the ocean with a book for 2 whole weeks and never leave the grounds. It rises proudly

Ritz-Carlton Kapalua

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on a knoll, in a singularly spectacular setting between the rainforest and the sea. During construction, the burial sites of hundreds of ancient Hawaiians were discovered in the sand, so the hotel was moved inland to avoid disrupting the graves. The setback improved the hotel’s outlook, which now has a commanding view of Molokai. The style is fancy plantation, elegant but not imposing. The public spaces are open, airy, and graceful, with plenty of tropical foliage and landscapes by artist Sarah Supplee. Rooms are up to the usual Ritz standard, outfitted with marble bathrooms, private lanais, and in-room fax capability. Hospitality is the keynote here; you’ll find the exemplary service you expect from Ritz-Carlton seasoned with good old-fashioned Hawaiian aloha. The Club Floor offers the best amenities in the state (for a price), from French roast coffee in the morning to a buffet at lunch to cookies in the afternoon to pupu and drinks at sunset. The Ritz Kids program offers a variety of activities and is very reasonable for hotel guests—only $15 for a full day, including lunch. Our only complaint about this fabulous property is the “resort fee” you’re charged on top of the already-high room rates. 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, HI 96761. & 800/262-8440 or 808/669-6200. Fax 808/665-0026. www.ritzcarlton.com. 548 units. $375–$535 double; from $635 suite. Extra person $50 ($125 in Club Floor rooms). “Resort fee” of $15 for “complimentary” use of fitness center and children’s program. Wedding/honeymoon, golf, and other packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $10, free selfparking. Amenities: 4 restaurants; 4 bars (including 1 serving drinks and light fare on the sand); outdoor pool; access to the Kapalua Resort’s 3 championship golf courses (each with its own pro shop) and its deluxe tennis complex; fitness room; spa; Jacuzzi; watersports equipment rentals; bike rental; children’s program; game room; concierge; activity desk; car-rental desk; business center; shopping arcade; salon; room service; in-room and spa massage; babysitting; same-day laundry and dry cleaning; concierge-level rooms (some of Hawaii’s best, with top-drawer service and amenities). In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

EXPENSIVE

If you’re interested in a luxurious condo or town house, consider Kapalua Villas (& 800/545-0018 or 808/669-8088; www.kapalua villas.com). The palatial units dotting the oceanfront cliffs and fairways of this idyllic coast are a (relative) bargain, especially if you’re traveling with a group. The one- bedroom condos go for $199 to $279; two-bedrooms for $299 to $469; plus numerous package deals (which include golf, tennis, honeymoon amenities, and car) save you even more money.

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3 South Maui MAALAEA We recommend two booking agencies that rent a host of properties in the Kihei/Wailea/Maalaea area: Kihei Maui Vacation (& 800/ 541-6284 or 808/879-7581; www.kmvmaui.com) and Condominium Rentals Hawaii (& 800/367-5242 or 808/879-2778; www.crhmaui.com).

KIHEI EXPENSIVE Maalaea Surf Resort

Come here for a quiet, relaxing vacation on a well-landscaped property, with a beautiful white-sand beach right outside. Located at the quiet end of Kihei Road, this two-story complex sprawls across 5 acres of lush tropical gardens. The luxury town houses all have ocean views, big kitchens (with dishwashers), cable TV, and VCRs. Amenities include maid service (Mon–Sat), shuffleboard, barbecue grills, discounts on tee times at nearby golf courses, and restaurants and shops within a 5-minute drive. 12 S. Kihei Rd. (at S. Kihei Rd. and Hwy. 350), Kihei, HI 96753. & 800/423-7953 or 808/879-1267. Fax 808/874-2884. www.maalaeasurfresort.com. 34 units in rental pool. $205–$230 1-bedroom unit; $277–$307 2-bedroom (sleeps up to 6). Extra person $15. MC, V. Amenities: 2 outdoor pools; 2 tennis courts; concierge; activity desk; car-rental desk; coin-op washer/dryers. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

If you can’t decide between the privacy of a condo and the conveniences of a hotel, try this place. Managed by the respected Aston chain, Maui Hill gives you the best of both worlds. Located on a hill above the heat of Kihei town, this large, Spanishstyle resort combines all the amenities and activities of a hotel (pool, hot tub, tennis courts, Hawaiiana classes, maid service, and more) with large luxury condos that have full kitchens and plenty of privacy. Nearly all units have ocean views, dishwashers, washer/dryers, queen sofa beds, and big lanais. Beaches, restaurants, and shops are within easy walking distance, and a golf course is nearby. The management here goes out of its way to make sure your stay is perfect.

Maui Hill

2881 S. Kihei Rd. (across from Kamaole Park III, between Keonekai St. and Kilohana Dr.), Kihei, HI 96753. & 800/92-ASTON Aston Hotels and Resorts or 808/879-6321. Fax 808/879-8945. www.aston-hotels.com. 140 units. High season $280 1-bedroom apt; $365 2-bedroom; $495 3-bedroom. Low season $215 1-bedroom; $280 2-bedroom; $385 3-bedroom. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor

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pool; putting green; tennis courts; Jacuzzi; concierge; activity desk; car-rental desk; coin-op washer/dryers; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, washer/dryer (in most units).

M O D E R AT E Kamaole Nalu Resort

This six-story condominium complex is located between two beach parks: Kamaole I and Kamaole II, and right across the street from a shopping complex. Units have fabulous ocean views, large living rooms, and private lanais; the kitchens are a bit small but come fully equipped. We recommend no. 306 for its wonderful bird’s-eye view. The property also has an ocean-side pool and great barbecue facilities. Restaurants, bars, a golf course, and tennis courts are nearby; shopping is across the street. A warning: Because the building is right on Kihei Road, it can be noisy.

2450 S. Kihei Rd. (between Kanani and Keonekai rds., next to Kamaole Beach Park II), Kihei, HI 96753. & 800/767-1497 or 808/879-1006. Fax 808/879-8693. www.kamaolenalu.com. 36 units. High season $155–$215 double. Low season $135–$195 double. Extra person $15. 5-night minimum. MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor pool; activity desk; car-rental desk. In room: TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, washer/dryer. Value Kids Located just across the street from the ocean, Koa Resort consists of five two-story wooden buildings on more than 51⁄ 2 acres of landscaped grounds. The spacious one-, two-, and three-bedroom units are decorated with care, large enough for families, and come fully equipped, right down to the dishwasher and disposal in the kitchens. The larger condos have both showers and tubs; the smaller units have showers only. All feature large lanais, ceiling fans, and washer/dryers. For maximum peace and quiet, ask for a unit far from Kihei Road. Bars, restaurants, and a golf course are nearby; these, along with the beach, putting green, pool, and tennis courts, should be enough to keep the whole family busy.

Koa Resort

811 S. Kihei Rd. (between Kulanihakoi St. and Namauu Place), c/o Bello Realty, P.O. Box 1776, Kihei, HI 96753. & 800/541-3060 or 808/879-3328. Fax 808/875-1483. www.bellomaui.com. 54 units (some with shower only). High season $110 1-bedroom; $120-$130 2-bedroom; $155-$180 3-bedroom. Low season $85 1-bedroom; $100-$110 2-bedroom; $135-$160 3-bedroom. No credit cards. Amenities: Outdoor pool; 18-hole putting green; 2 tennis courts; Jacuzzi. In room: TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, washer/dryer.

Maui Coast Hotel This place stands out as one of the only moderately priced hotels in Kihei (which is largely full of affordable condo complexes). Ask about packages: For slightly more than the regular price of a room, the Maui Coast’s Room and Car package gives you a rental car. The other chief advantage of this hotel is its

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DINING Bubba’s Burgers 11 16 17 Keawakapu Buzz’s Wharf 1 19 Beach 20 Kilohana Dr. Caffe Ciao 29 18 21 The Coffee Store 9 Mokapu Maui Meadows ko Beach Five Palms 21 22 l a n i D Wailea Alanui Rd. Joe’s Bar & Grill 25 23 Ulua Beach Longhi’s 24 WAILEA 24 Maui Tacos 15 Wailea 25 31 Beach 26 Nick’s Fishmarket Maui 29 W ailea' Ike D r. Wailea Point Peggy Sue’s 9 Polo 28 Prince Court 31 27 Beach 29 27 SeaWatch 30 Palauea Shaka Sandwich & Pizza 10 K au Beach k a h i S t. Spago 27 30 Stella Blues Cafe 7 Haloa The Waterfront at Maalaea 1 Point Poolenalena Beach

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Nahuna Point

Makena Bay

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location, about a block from Kamaole Beach Park I, with plenty of bars, restaurants, and shopping within walking distance and a golf course nearby. A $2.5 million renovation of all the furniture, linens, and upholstery in the rooms has this moderately priced hotel looking better than ever. The rooms offer extras such as sitting areas, whirlpool tubs, ceiling fans, and private lanais. 2259 S. Kihei Rd. (1 block from Kamaole Beach Park I), Kihei, HI 96753. & 800/ 895-MAUI or 808/874-6284. Fax 808/875-4731. www.mauicoasthotel.com. 265 units. $155–$165 double; $175–$195 alcove suite; $230 1-bedroom suite (sleeps up to 4). Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding. Rollaway bed $20. Packages including rental car available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; pool bar with nightly entertainment; outdoor pool (plus children’s wading pool); 2 night-lit tennis courts; fitness room; concierge; activity desk; limited room service; free use of self-serve washer/dryers; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

Maui Kamaole You’ll find this condo complex right across the street from the Kihei Public Boat Ramp and beautiful Kamaole Beach Park III, which is great for swimming and snorkeling. Each roomy, fully furnished unit comes with a private lanai, two bathrooms (even in the one-bedroom units), and an all-electric kitchen. The one-bedroom units—which can comfortably accommodate four—are quite a deal, especially if you’re traveling in the off season. The grounds are nicely landscaped and offer barbecues. Restaurants and bars are within walking distance; a golf course and tennis courts are also nearby. 2777 S. Kihei Rd. (between Keonekai and Kilohana rds., at the Wailea end of Kihei), Kihei, HI 96753. & 800/822-4409 or 808/874-8467. Fax 808/875-9117. www.mauikamaole.com. 210 units. High season $170–$195 1-bedroom double (sleeps up to 4); $220–$250 2-bedroom (rates for 4, sleeps up to 6). Low season $135–$150 1-bedroom; $175–$200 2-bedroom. 4-night minimum. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 outdoor pools; Jacuzzi; concierge; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, iron, safe, washer/dryer.

INEXPENSIVE Ann and Bob Babson’s Bed & Breakfast and Sunset Cottage Value We highly recommend staying on this spacious landscaped lot, which boasts 180-degree views of the islands of Lanai, Kahoolawe, and Molokini; sunsets are not to be missed. Accommodations include two rooms in the main house (one with panoramic ocean views, skylights, and a whirlpool tub), a one-bedroom suite downstairs, and a two-bedroom cottage with a kitchen. The Babsons have three adorable cats—if you’re allergic, you might want to book elsewhere.

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3371 Keha Dr. (in Maui Meadows), Kihei, HI 96753. & 800/824-6409 or 808/874-1166. Fax 808/879-7906. www.mauibnb.com. 4 units. $100–$130 double (including breakfast Mon–Sat); $135 cottage double (sleeps up to 4). Extra person $15. 5-night minimum in house, 7-night minimum for cottage. MC, V. In room: TV, kitchen (in cottage only), fridge, coffeemaker. Value This oceanfront property at the northern end of Kihei is well maintained and nicely furnished—and the price is excellent. But skip the studio units: They face noisy Kihei Road, so you’ll be listening to big trucks downshifting all night. Instead, go for one of the oceanview units, which all have full kitchens and private lanais. The grounds face a 5-mile stretch of white-sand beach. The management goes out of its way to provide opportunities for guests to meet; social gatherings include free coffee-anddoughnut get-togethers every Friday morning and pupu parties on Wednesdays.

Kealia Resort

191 N. Kihei Rd. (north of Hwy. 31, at the Maalaea end of Kihei), Kihei, HI 96753. & 800/265-0686 or 808/879-0952. Fax 808/875-1540. www.apmimaui.com. 51 units. $75–$99 studio double; $100–$150 1-bedroom double; $165–$195 2-bedroom (sleeps up to 4). Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. Extra person $10. 4-night minimum. MC, V. Amenities: Recently retiled outdoor pool. In room: TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, washer/dryer.

Leinaala Value From Kihei Road, you can’t see Leinaala amid the jumble of buildings, but this oceanfront boutique condo offers excellent accommodations at 1980s prices. The building is set back from the water, with a county park—an oasis of green grass and tennis courts—in between. A golf course lies nearby. The units are compact, but filled with everything you need: a full kitchen, sofa bed, and oceanview lanai. (Hideaway beds are available if you need one.) 998 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, HI 96753. & 800/822-4409 or 808/879-2235. Fax 808/ 879-8366. www.mauicondo.com. 24 units. $135 1-bedroom double; $180 2-bedroom (sleeps up to 4). 4-night minimum. Extra person $10. No credit cards. Amenities: Outdoor pool; coin-op washer/dryers. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker. Kids This eight-story complex, situated on a beautiful white-sand cove, is an unusual combination of hotel and condominium. The hotel rooms, which account for half of the total number of units, are small but nicely furnished. The condo units feature full kitchens and open living rooms with sliding-glass doors that lead to small lanais overlooking the sandy beach and ocean. Some units are beginning to show their age (the building is more than 30 years old), but they’re all clean and comfortable.

Mana Kai Maui Resort

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One of the best snorkeling beaches on the coast is just steps away; a golf course and tennis courts are nearby. 2960 S. Kihei Rd. (between Kilohana and Keonekai rds., at the Wailea end of Kihei), Kihei, HI 96753. & 800/367-5242 or 808/879-2778. Fax 808/879-7825. www. crhmaui.com. 105 units. $95–$135 hotel room double; $175–$245 1-bedroom (sleeps up to 4); $234–$300 2-bedroom (up to 6). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; concierge; coin-op washer/dryers. In room: A/C (in hotel rooms only), TV, kitchen (in condo units), fridge, coffeemaker, safe. Value If you plan to stay on Maui for a week, you might want to look into the car/condo packages here; they’re a real deal. The six-story Menehune Shores is more than 30 years old and is showing its age in some places, but all units are well maintained and have ocean views. The design is straight out of the 1970s, but the view from the private lanai is timeless. The kitchens are fully equipped, all units have washer/dryers, and the ocean breeze keeps the rooms cool (there’s no air-conditioning). The building sits in front of the ancient Hawaiian fish ponds of Kalepolepo; some Hawaiians still fish them using traditional throw nets, but generally the pond serves as protection from the ocean waves, making it safe for children (and those unsure of their ability) to swim in the relatively calm waters. There’s also a heated pool, shuffleboard courts, and a whale-watching platform on the roof garden.

Menehune Shores

760 S. Kihei Rd. (between Kaonoulu and Hoonani sts.), P.O. Box 1327, Kihei, HI 96753. & 800/558-9117 or 808/879-3428. Fax 808/879-5218. www.menehune reservations.com. 70 units. $105–$130 1-bedroom double ($839/week with car); $120–$155 2-bedroom double ($989/week with car); $135–$180 2-bedroom for 4 ($1,129/week with car); $170–$220 3-bedroom for up to 6 ($1,539/week with car). 3-night minimum. Extra person $7.50. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant (Hawaiian/Pacific Rim) and bar; outdoor pool; Jacuzzi; room service (8am–9pm). In room: TV/VCR, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, washer/dryers.

Nona Lani Cottages Picture this: a grassy expanse dotFinds ted with eight cottages tucked among palm, fruit, and sweetsmelling flower trees, right across the street from a white-sand beach. This is one of the great hidden deals in Kihei. The cottages are tiny, but contain everything you’ll need: a small but complete kitchen, twin beds that double as couches in the living room, a separate bedroom with a queen bed, and a lanai with table and chairs. The cottages were renovated in 2002 with new ceramic flooring. There are no phones in the cabins, but there’s a public one by the registration/check-in area. If the cabins are booked, or if you want a bit more luxury, you might opt for one of the private guest rooms, with private entrance

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and private bathroom. These beautiful units feature plush carpet, koa bed frames, lanais, and private entrances. 455 S. Kihei Rd. (just south of Hwy. 31), P.O. Box 655, Kihei, HI 96753. & 800/ 733-2688 or 808/879-2497. www.nonalanicottages.com. 11 units. $75–$85 double; $90–$99 cottage. Extra person $12–$15. 3-night minimum for rooms, 4-night minimum for cottages. No credit cards. Amenities: Coin-op washer/dryers. In room: TV, kitchen (in cottages), fridge, coffeemaker, no phone. Value Book this place! We can’t put it any more simply than that. The location—off noisy, trafficridden Kihei Road, on a quiet side street with ocean frontage—is fabulous. A grassy lawn rolls about 50 feet down to the beach, where there’s great snorkeling just offshore and a popular surfing spot next door; shopping and restaurants are all within walking distance. All of the beautifully decorated units in this small, four-story building have fully equipped kitchens and lanais with great ocean views. Rooms go quickly in winter, so reserve early.

Punahoa Beach Apartments

2142 Iliili Rd. (off S. Kihei Rd., 100 yards from Kamaole Beach I), Kihei, HI 96753. & 800/564-4380 or 808/879-2720. Fax 808/875-9147. www.punahoabeach.com. 13 units. High season $130 studio double; $185–$198 1-bedroom double; $220 2-bedroom double. Low season $94 studio; $130–$145 1-bedroom; $160 2-bedroom. Extra person $15. 5-night minimum. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Coin-op washer/ dryer. In room: TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, iron. Value What a Wonderful World B&B This impeccably done B&B has a great location, excellent rates, and thought and care put into every room. Hostess Eva Tantillo has a full-service travel agency and a master’s degree—along with several years of experience—in hotel management. This is one of Maui’s finest bed-and-breakfasts, centrally located in Kihei (1⁄ 2 mile to Kamaole II Beach Park, 5 min. from Wailea golf courses, and convenient to shopping and restaurants). Choose from one of four units: the master suite (with small fridge, coffeemaker, and barbecue grill on the lanai), studio apartment (with fully equipped kitchen), or two one-bedroom apartments (also with full kitchens). All come with private bathroom, phone, and entrance. You’re also welcome to use the communal barbecue. Eva serves a family-style full breakfast on her lanai, which boasts views of white-sand beaches and the West Maui Mountains.

2828 Umalu Place (off Keonakai St., near Hwy. 31), Kihei, HI 96753. & 800/9435804 or 808/879-9103. Fax 808/874-9352. www.amauibedandbreakfast.com. 4 units. $75 double; $89 studio double; $99 1-bedroom apt. (5% discount for cash). Rates include full breakfast. Children 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Hot tub; laundry facilities. In room: AC, TV, kitchenette, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

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WAILEA For a complete selection of condo units throughout Wailea and Makena, contact Destination Resorts Hawaii (& 800/367-5246 or 808/879-1595; fax 808/874-3554; www.destinationresortshi.com). Its luxury units include studio doubles starting at $180; one-bedroom doubles from $170; two-bedrooms from $205; and three-bedrooms from $585. Children under 16 stay free; minimum stays vary by property. VERY EXPENSIVE The Fairmont Kea Lani Maui

At first glance, this blinding white complex of arches and turrets may look a bit out of place in tropical Hawaii (it’s actually a close architectural cousin of Las Hadas, the Arabian Nights fantasy resort in Manzanillo, Mexico). But once you enter the flower-filled lobby and see the big blue Pacific outside, there’s no doubt you’re in Hawaii. The prices are high, but you get what you pay for here, plus a few extras. Each unit in this all-suite luxury hotel has a kitchenette (with microwave and coffeemaker), a living room with entertainment center and sofa bed (great if you have the kids in tow), a marble wet bar, an oversize marble bathroom with separate shower big enough for a party, a spacious bedroom, and a large lanai that overlooks the pools, lawns, and white-sand beach. The villas are definitely out of a fantasy. The rich and famous stay in these 2,000-square-foot, two- and three-bedroom beach bungalows, each with its own plunge pool and gourmet kitchen. 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, HI 96753. & 800/659-4100 or 808/875-4100. Fax 808/875-1200. www.kealani.com. 450 units. $339–$729 suite (sleeps up to 4); from $1,400 villa. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants (see reviews for Nick’s Fishmarket Maui on p. 98 and Caffe Ciao on p. 98); 3 bars (with sunset cocktails and nightly entertainment at the Lobby Lounge); 2 large swimming “lagoons” connected by a 140-ft. water slide and swim-up bar, plus an adult lap pool; use of Wailea Golf Club’s 3 18-hole championship golf courses, as well as the nearby Makena and Elleair golf courses; use of Wailea Tennis Center’s 11 courts (3 lit for night play and a pro shop); fine 24-hr. fitness center; excellent full-service spa offering the latest in body treatments, facials, and massage; Jacuzzi; watersports equipment rentals; bike rental; children’s program; game room; concierge; activity desk; carrental desk; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; in-room and spa massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service and dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, kitchenette, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe. Kids If money’s no object, this is the place to spend it. It’s hard to beat this modern version of a Hawaiian palace by the sea, with a relaxing, casual atmosphere. Although it sits on a glorious beach between two other

Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea

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hotels, you won’t feel like you’re on resort row: The Four Seasons inhabits its own separate world, thanks to an open courtyard of pools and gardens. Amenities are first-rate here, including outstanding restaurants, an excellent spa, and a complete activities program for kids (complimentary, of course). The spacious (about 600 sq. ft.) rooms feature furnished lanais (nearly all with ocean views) that are great for watching whales in winter and sunsets year-round. The grand bathrooms contain deep marble tubs, showers for two, and lighted French makeup mirrors. Service is attentive but not cloying. At the pool, guests lounge in casbah-like tents, pampered with special touches like iced Evian and chilled towels. And you’ll never see a housekeeping cart in the hall: The cleaning staff works in teams, so they’re as unobtrusive as possible and in and out of your room in minutes. Wolfgang Puck recently opened his Spago Restaurant (p. 96) at the resort featuring a fusion of Hawaiian and California cuisine in a dreamy open-air setting. Ferraro’s at Seaside Restaurant offers a casual atmosphere overlooking the Pacific by day; by night, it’s transformed into a romantic atmosphere featuring authentic Italian cucina rustica with great sunset views and dining under the stars. The poolside Pacific Grill offers lavish breakfast buffets and dinners featuring Pacific Rim cuisine. The ritzy neighborhood surrounding the hotel is home to great restaurants and shopping, the Wailea Tennis Center (known as Wimbledon West), and six golf courses—not to mention that great beach, with gentle waves and islands framing the view on either side. 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, HI 96753. & 800/334-MAUI or 808/874-8000. Fax 808/874-2222. www.fourseasons.com/maui. 380 units. $335–$590 double; from $630 suite. Packages available. Extra person $90 ($160 in Club Floor rooms). Children under 18 stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars (with nightly entertainment); 3 fabulous outdoor pools; putting green; use of Wailea Golf Club’s 3 18-hole championship golf courses, as well as the nearby Makena and Elleair golf courses; 2 on-site tennis courts (lit for night play); use of Wailea Tennis Center’s 11 courts (3 lit for night play and a pro shop); health club featuring outdoor cardiovascular equipment (with individual TV/VCR); excellent spa (offering a variety of treatments in the spa, in-room, and ocean side); 2 whirlpools (1 for adults only); beach pavilion with watersports gear rental and 1 hr. free use of snorkel equipment; complimentary use of bicycles; fabulous year-round kids’ program, plus a teen recreation center and a children’s video library and toys; game room (with shuffleboard, pool tables, jukebox, big-screen TV, and video games); one of Maui’s best concierge desks; activity desk; car-rental desk; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; in-room, spa, or ocean-side massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service and dry cleaning; concierge-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

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Grand Wailea Resort Hotel & Spa Here’s where grand becomes grandiose. The pinnacle of Hawaii’s brief fling with fantasy megaresorts, this monument to excess is extremely popular with families, incentive groups, and conventions; it’s the grand prize in Hawaii vacation contests and the dream of many honeymooners. It has a Japanese restaurant decorated with real rocks hewn from the slopes of Mount Fuji; 10,000 tropical plants in the lobby; an intricate pool system with slides, waterfalls, rapids, and a water-powered elevator to take you up to the top; Hawaii’s largest and most elaborate spa; a restaurant in a man-made tide pool; a floating New England–style wedding chapel; and nothing but oceanview rooms, outfitted with every amenity you could ask for. And it’s all crowned with a $30 million collection of original art, much of it created expressly for the hotel by Hawaii artists and sculptors. Though minimalists may be put off, there’s no denying that the Grand Wailea is plush, professional, and pampering, with all the diversions you could imagine. Oh, and did we mention the fantastic beach out front? 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, HI 96753. & 800/888-6100 or 808/875-1234. Fax 808/874-2442. www.grandwailea.com. 780 units. $450–$760 double; from $1575 suite. Concierge tower from $800. Resort fee $15 for “complimentary” lei greeting on arrival; welcome drink; local calls; coffee in room; use of spa; admission to scuba diving clinics and water aerobics; art and garden tours; nightly turndown service; self parking; and shuttle service to Wailea area. Extra person $25 ($75 in concierge tower). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 6 restaurants; 12 bars (including a nightclub with laser-light shows and a hydraulic dance floor); 2,000-foot-long Action Pool, featuring a 10-min. swim/ride through mountains and grottoes; use of Wailea Golf Club’s 3 18-hole championship golf courses, as well as the nearby Makena and Elleair golf courses; use of Wailea Tennis Center’s 11 courts (3 lit for night play and a pro shop); complete fitness center; Hawaii’s largest spa, the 50,000-sq.-ft. Spa Grande, with a blend of European-, Japanese-, and American-style techniques; Jacuzzi; watersports equipment rentals; complimentary dive and windsurf lessons; bike rental; children’s program (including a computer center, video game room, arts and crafts, children’s theater, outdoor playground, and infant-care center); game room; concierge; activity desk; car-rental desk; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; in-room and spa massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service and dry cleaning; concierge-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, kitchenette, minibar, fridge ($25 per stay fee), coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

This is the place for visitors in search of Wailea-style luxury, but in a smaller, more intimate setting. Located on 15 acres of rolling lawn and tropical gardens, the Renaissance Wailea has the air of a small boutique hotel. Perhaps it’s the resort’s U-shaped design, the series of small coves and

Renaissance Wailea Beach Resort

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beaches, or the spaciousness of the rooms—whatever the reason, you just don’t feel crowded here. Each room has a sitting area, a large lanai, and three phones. The bathrooms include such extras as double vanities (one with lighted makeup mirror) and hapi coats (Japanese-style cotton robes). All bedspreads, drapes, and towels have been recently upgraded. Rooms in the Mokapu Beach Club, an exclusive two-story building just steps from a crescent-shaped beach, feature such extras as private check-in, in-room continental breakfast, and access to a private pool and beach cabanas. 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, HI 96753. & 800/9-WAILEA or 808/879-4900. Fax 808/874-5370. www.renaissancehotels.com. 345 units. $360–$600 double; from $1,050 suite. Extra person $40. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding. Package rates available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $4. Amenities: 3 restaurants (the casual, open-air Palm Court offers buffets and ovenbaked pizzas; Hana Gion features a sushi bar and teppanyaki grill; and Maui Onion is a poolside breakfast and lunch spot surrounded by lush gardens and a cascading waterfall); 2 bars; 2 freshwater outdoor pools; use of Wailea Golf Club’s 3 18-hole championship golf courses, as well as the nearby Makena and Elleair golf courses; use of Wailea Tennis Center’s 11 courts (3 lit for night play and a pro shop); fitness center; small spa; 2 Jacuzzis; watersports equipment rentals; children’s program; game room; concierge; activity desk; car-rental desk; business center; shopping arcade; salon; room service (6am–11pm); massage; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; concierge-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, dataport, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

EXPENSIVE Wailea Marriott, an Outrigger Resort

Yes, it seems ridiculous to have two brand names tacked on to a Hawaiian resort, but it seems that the Outrigger people entered into a “franchise agreement” with Marriott in 2002 to increase sales (through Marriott), yet still retain the same management (Outrigger). The bottom line: This classic open-air, 1970s-style hotel in a tropical garden by the sea gives you a sense of what Maui was like before the big resort boom. It’s airy and comfortable, with touches of Hawaiian art throughout. What’s truly special about this hotel is how it fits into its environment without overwhelming it. Eight buildings, all low-rise except for an eight-story tower, are spread along 22 gracious acres of lawns and gardens spiked by coco palms, with lots of open space and a half mile of oceanfront on a point between Wailea and Ulua beaches. The vast, parklike expanses are a luxury on this nowcrowded coast. In 2000, the resort went through a $25 million renovation that expanded the entrance into an open-air courtyard with a waterfall

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and carp pond, transformed the south pool into a water-activities area complete with two water slides, added a fabulous spa, and refurbished and upgraded the guest rooms. 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, HI 96753. & 800/367-2960 or 808/879-1922. Fax 808/874-8331. www.outriggerwailea.com. 524 units. $325–$525 double. Suites from $650. Extra person $40. Packages available.AE, DC, DISC, MC,V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; 3 outdoor pools; use of Wailea Golf Club’s 3 18-hole championship golf courses, as well as the nearby Makena and Elleair golf courses; use of Wailea Tennis Center’s 11 courts (3 lit for night play and a pro shop); fitness room; Mandora Spa; Jacuzzi; watersports equipment rentals; children’s program (plus kids-only pool and recreation center); game room; concierge; activity desk; business center; shopping arcade; salon; room service (6am–11pm); in-room and spa massage; babysitting; coin-op washer/dryers; same-day laundry service and dry cleaning; concierge-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

MAKENA EXPENSIVE Maui Prince Hotel

If you’re looking for a vacation in a beautiful, tranquil spot with a golden-sand beach, here’s your place. But if you plan to tour Maui, you might prefer another hotel. The Maui Prince is at the end of the road, far, far away from anything else on the island, so sightseeing in other areas would require a lot of driving. When you first see the stark-white hotel, it looks like a high-rise motel stuck in the woods—but only from the outside. Inside, you’ll discover an atrium garden with a koi-filled waterfall stream, an ocean view from every room, and a simplicity to the furnishings that makes some people feel uncomfortable and others blissfully clutterfree. Rooms are small but come with private lanais with great views.

5400 Makena Alanui, Makena, HI 96753. & 800/PRINCE-4 or 808/874-1111. Fax 808/879-8763. www.mauiprincehotel.com. 310 units. $310–$480 double; from $600 suite. Extra person $40. Packages available. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants (including the excellent Prince Court, p. 99); 2 bars with local Hawaiian music nightly; 2 outdoor pools (adults’ and children’s); 36 holes of golf (designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr.); 6 Plexi-pave tennis courts (2 lit for night play); fitness room; Jacuzzi; watersports equipment rental; children’s program; concierge; activity desk; business center; shopping arcade; salon; room service; in-room massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service and dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, fridge, hair dryer, iron, safe.

4 Upcountry Maui MAKAWAO, OLINDA & HALIIMAILE Makawao and Olinda are approximately 90 minutes from the entrance to Haleakala National Park (you still have 3,000 ft. and another 30–45 min. to get to the top). Haliimaile, which is about

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10 to 15 minutes driving time from Makawao, adds additional time to your drive up to the summit. Accommodations in Kula are the only other options that will get you closer to the summit so you can make the sunrise. M O D E R AT E Olinda Country Cottages & Inn

This charming B&B Finds is set on the slopes of Haleakala in the crisp, clean air of Olinda, on an 81⁄ 2-acre protea farm, surrounded by 35,000 acres of ranch lands (with miles of great hiking trails). The 5,000-square-foot country home, outfitted with a professional eye to detail, has incredible panoramic views of all of Maui. Upstairs are two guest rooms with antique beds, private full bathrooms, and separate entryways. Connected to the main house but with its own private entrance, the Pineapple Sweet has a full kitchen, an antique-filled living room, a marble-tiled full bathroom, and a comfy bedroom area. A separate 1,000-square-foot cottage is the epitome of cozy country luxury, with a fireplace, bedroom with queen-size bed, cushioned window seats (with great sunset views), and cathedral ceilings. The 950square-foot Hidden Cottage (located in a truly secluded spot surrounded by protea flowers) features three decks, French glass doors, a full kitchen, a washer/dryer, and a private tub for two on the deck. Restaurants are a 15-minute drive away in Makawao, and beaches are another 15 minutes beyond that. 2660 Olinda Rd. (near the top of Olinda Rd., a 15-min. drive from Makawao), Makawao, HI 96768. & 800/932-3435 or 808/572-1453. Fax 808/573-5326. www.mauibnbcottages.com. 5 units. $140 double (includes continental breakfast); $140 suite double (includes 1st morning’s breakfast in fridge); $195–$245 cottage for 2 (sleeps up to 5; includes 1st morning’s breakfast in fridge). Extra person $25. 2-night minimum for rooms and suite, 3-night minimum for cottages. No credit cards. In room: TV, kitchen (in cottages), fridge, coffeemaker.

INEXPENSIVE Banyan Tree House

Huge monkeypod trees extend their Finds branches over this property like a giant green canopy. The restored 1920s plantation manager’s house is decorated with Hawaiian furniture from the 1930s. It can accommodate a group; it has three spacious bedrooms with big, comfortable beds and three private, marble-tiled bathrooms. A fireplace stands at one end of the huge living room, a large lanai runs the entire length of the house, and the hardwood floors shine throughout. The four smaller guest cottages have been totally renovated and also feature hardwood floors and marble bathrooms. The small cottage has a queen bed, private

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bathroom, microwave, coffee pot, and access to the fridge in the laundry room. Each of the larger cottages has two beds, a private bathroom, and a TV. One cottage has a kitchenette, the other a full kitchen. The quiet neighborhood and old Hawaii ambience give this place a comfortable, easygoing atmosphere. Restaurants and shops are just minutes away in Makawao, and the beach is a 15-minute drive. 3265 Baldwin Ave. (next to Veteran’s Cemetery, less than a mile below Makawao), Makawao, HI 96768. & 808/572-9021. Fax 808/573-5072. www.banyantreehouse. com. 1 house, 4 cottages. $85–$110 cottage for 2; $300 3-bedroom house (sleeps up to 9). Extra person $15. Children age 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. Cleaning deposit for house of $150 if less than 7-day stay. MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor pool (saltwater); Jacuzzi; babysitting; small charge for self-serve washer/dryer. In room: Kitchen or kitchenette, fridge, coffeemaker.

Hale Ho’okipa Inn Makawao Step back in time at this Finds 1924 plantation-style home, rescued by owner Cherie Attix in 1996 and restored to its original charm (on the State and National Historic Registers). Cherie lovingly refurbished the old wooden floors, filled the rooms with furniture from the 1920s, and hung works by local artists on the walls. The result is a charming, serene place to stay, just a 5-minute walk from the shops and restaurants of Makawao, 15 minutes from beaches, and a 11⁄ 2-hour drive from the top of Haleakala. The guest rooms have separate outside entrances and private bathrooms. The house’s front and back porches are both wonderful for sipping tea and watching the sunset. The Kona Wing is a two-bedroom suite with private bathroom and use of the kitchen. 32 Pakani Place, Makawao, HI 96768. & 808/572-6698. www.maui-bed-andbreakfast.com. 3 units (2 with shower only). $95–$110 double; $145–$165 suite with full kitchen. Rates include continental breakfast. Extra person $5–$10. MC, V. From Haleakala Hwy., turn left on Makawao Ave., then turn right on the 5th street on the right off Makawao Ave. (Pakani Place); second to the last house on the right (green house with white picket fence and water tower). In room: TV, hair dryer.

KULA Lodgings in Kula are the closest options to the entrance of Haleakala National Park (about 60 min. away). M O D E R AT E Malu Manu

This is one of the most romantic places to Finds stay on Maui, with a panoramic view of the entire island from the front door. Tucked into the side of Haleakala Volcano at 4,000 feet is this old Hawaiian estate with a single-room log cabin (built as a writer’s retreat in the early 1900s) and a 30-year-old family home.

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The writers’ cabin has a full kitchen, a fireplace, and antiques galore. The two-bedroom, 21⁄ 2-bathroom home also has antiques, koa walls, and beautiful eucalyptus floors. The 7-acre property is filled with native forest, organic gardens (help yourself to lemons, avocados, and whatever else is ripe), a paddle tennis court, and a Japanese-style outdoor soaking tub. If you’re a dog person, the resident golden retriever, Alohi, may come over and make your acquaintance. This is one of the closest accommodations to Haleakala; restaurants are about a 15-minute drive away. 446 Cooke Rd. (mailing address: P.O. Box 175, Kula, HI 96790). & 888/878-6161 or 808/878-6111. www.maui.net/~alive/index.html. 2 units. $135 double in log cabin; $170 double in 2-bedroom house. Extra person $10. MC. V. Amenities: Hot tub; paddle tennis court; in-room massage; laundry facilities. In room: Kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, iron.

Old Hawaii lives on at Silver Cloud Ranch, founded in 1902. The former working cattle spread has a commanding view of four islands, the West Maui Mountains, and the valley and beaches below. The Lanai Cottage, a honeymoon favorite nestled in a flower garden, has an oceanview lanai, claw-foot tub, full kitchen, and wood-burning stove to warm chilly nights; a futon is available for a third person. The best rooms in the main house are on the second floor: the King Kamehameha Suite (with king bed) and the Queen Emma Suite (with queen sleigh bed). One-lane Thompson Road makes an ideal morning walk (about 3 miles round-trip), and you can go horseback riding next door at Thompson Ranch. There’s a TV available on request.

Silver Cloud Ranch

Old Thompson Rd. (11⁄ 4 miles past Hwy. 37). RR 2, Box 201, Kula, HI 96790. & 800/532-1111 or 808/878-6101. Fax 808/878-2132. www.silvercloud ranch.com. 12 units. $110–$162 double in main house; $136–$188 double studio in mauka hale; $195 double cottage. Rates include full breakfast. Extra person $15. 2 night minimum or $15 surcharge. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. In room: TV, kitchen (in cottage), fridge (in cottage), coffeemaker (in cottage); no phone.

INEXPENSIVE

In addition to the options below, also consider Gildersleeve’s Vacation Rentals, formerly known as Elaine’s Upcountry Guest Rooms (& 808/878-6623; fax 808/878-2619; [email protected]); the warm and welcoming hosts rent three rooms in their spacious pole house ($80 double; 3-night minimum). Kula Cottage We can’t imagine having a less-than-fanFinds tastic vacation here. Tucked away on a quiet street amid blooming papaya and banana trees, Cecilia and Larry Gilbert’s romantic honeymoon cottage is very private—it even has its own driveway and

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carport. The 700-square-foot cottage has a full kitchen (complete with dishwasher), and three huge closets that offer enough storage space for you to move in permanently. An outside lanai has a big gas barbecue and an umbrella table and chairs. Cecilia delivers a continental breakfast daily. Groceries and a small take-out lunch counter are within walking distance; it’s a 30-minute drive to the beach. 40 Puakea Place (off Lower Kula Rd.), Kula, HI 96790. & 808/878-2043 or 808/ 871-6230. Fax 808/871-9187. www.gilbertadvertising.com/kulacottage. 1 cottage. $95 double. Rate includes continental breakfast. 2-night minimum. No credit cards. In room: TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, washer/dryer. Kids Kula Lynn Farm Bed & Bath The Coons, the same great family that runs Maui’s best sailing adventure on the Trilogy, offer this spectacular 1,600-square-foot unit on the ground floor of a custom-built pole house. From its location on the slopes of Haleakala, the panoramic view—across Maui’s central valley, with the islands of Lanai and Kahoolawe in the distance—is worth the price alone. Wall-to-wall windows and high ceilings add to the feeling of spaciousness throughout. The two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and two queen sofa beds in the living room make this the perfect place for a family. No expense has been spared in the European-style kitchen, with top appliances and Italian marble floors. This place should appeal to those who enjoy a quiet location and such activities as barbecuing on the lanai and watching the sun set.

P.O. Box 847, Kula, HI 96790. & 800/874-2666, ext. 211, or 808/878-6176. Fax 808/878-6320. [email protected]. 1 unit. $95 double. 3-night minimum. Rate includes breakfast fixings. Extra person $15. AE, MC, V. In room: TV/VCR, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, iron.

5 East Maui: On the Road to Hana KUAU The fabulous location (nestled in a coconut grove on secluded Kuau Beach), beautifully decorated interior (with island-style rattan furniture and works by Hawaiian artists), full kitchen, and extras (Weber gas barbecue, bigscreen TVs, and all the beach toys you can think of ) make this place a gem for those seeking a centrally-located vacation rental. It has everything, even Mama’s Fish House next door, where guests get a discount off lunch and dinner. The one-bedrooms are nestled in tropical jungle (red ginger surrounds the garden patio), while the two-bedrooms face the beach. Both have terra-cotta floors, complete kitchens (even dishwashers), sofa beds, and laundry facilities.

The Inn at Mama’s Fish House

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799 Poho Place (off the Hana Hwy. in Kuau), Paia, HI 96779. & 800/860-HULA or 808/579-9764. Fax 808/579-8594. www.mamasfishhouse.com. 6 units. $140–$160 1-bedroom (sleeps up to 4); $350 2-bedroom (up to 6). 3-night minimum stay. AE, DISC, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, answering machine, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, washer/dryer.

HAIKU Maui Dream Cottages Value Essentially a vacation rental, this country estate is located atop a hill overlooking the ocean. The spacious grounds are dotted with fruit trees (bananas, papayas, and avocados, all free for the picking), and the front lawn is comfortably equipped with a double hammock, chaise lounges, and table and chairs. One cottage has two bedrooms, a full kitchen, a washer/dryer, and an entertainment center. The other is basically the same, but with only one bedroom (plus a sofa bed in the living room). They’re both very well maintained and comfortably outfitted with furniture that’s attractive but casual. The Haiku location is quiet and restful and offers the opportunity to see how real islanders live. However, you’ll have to drive a good 20 to 25 minutes to restaurants in Makawao or Paia. Hookipa Beach is about a 20-minute drive, and Baldwin Beach (which has good swimming) is 25 minutes away. 265 W. Kuiaha Rd. (1 block from Pauwela Cafe), Haiku, HI 96708. & 808/ 575-9079. Fax 808/575-9477. http://planet-hawaii.com/haiku. 2 cottages (shower only). $70 for 4. 7-night minimum. MC, V. In room: TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, washer/dryer. Value Pilialoha B&B Cottage The minute you arrive at this split-level country cottage, located on 2 acres of half-century-old eucalyptus trees, you’ll see owner Machiko Heyde’s artistry at work. Just in front of the quaint cottage (which is great for couples but can sleep up to five) is a garden blooming with some 200 varieties of roses. You’ll find more of Machiko’s handiwork inside. There’s a queen bed in the master bedroom, a twin bed in a small adjoining room, and a queen sofa bed in the living room. A large lanai extends from the master bedroom. There’s a great movie collection for rainy days or cool country nights, and a garage. Machiko delivers breakfast daily; if you plan on an early morning ride to the top of Haleakala, she’ll make sure you go with a thermos of coffee and her homemade bread.

2512 Kaupakalua Rd. (3⁄ 4 mile from Kokomo intersection), Haiku, HI 96708. & 808/ 572-1440. Fax 808/572-4612. www.pilialoha.com. 1 cottage. $130 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Extra person $20. 3-night minimum. MC, V. Amenities: Complimentary use of beach gear (including snorkel equipment); complimentary use of washer/dryer. In room: TV/VCR, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker.

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This cozy, romantic intimate cottage, Finds hidden in Miliko Gulch, overlooking a stream with a waterfall, bamboo, sweet smelling ginger and banana trees, is perfect for honeymooners, lovers, and fans of Hawaiian art. The moment you step into this 400-square-foot, artistically decorated Hawaiian cottage (with additional 156-sq.-ft. screened deck), you will be delighted at the carefully placed memorabilia (ukulele tile, canoe paddle, and so on) found throughout. The cottage has a full kitchen with everything you could possibly need for cooking. The Hawaiian theme carries into the living room with VCR behind a tropical painted cabinet and stereo. The comfy queen bed opens to the living area. The screened porch has table, chairs, and couch, perfect for curling up with a good book. Outside there’s a barbecue, plus all the beach toys you could want to borrow.

Wild Ginger

Haiku. Reservations c/o Hawaii’s Best Bed & Breakfasts, P.O. Box 758, Volcano, HI 96785. & 800/262-9912 or 808/985-7488. Fax 808/967-8610. www.bestbnb. com. 1 unit. $125 double, 3-night minimum. No credit cards. In room: VCR, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, washer/dryer.

HUELO Here’s a peaceful retreat by Finds the sea on a spectacular, remote 300-foot sea cliff near a waterfall stream. This large estate overlooking Waipio Bay has two guest cottages, a guesthouse, and a main house available for rent. The studiosize Gazebo Cottage has a floor-to-ceiling glass wall that overlooks a spectacular ocean view. Inside the intimate cabin are a koa-wood captain’s bed, a TV, a stereo, a kitchenette, a private ocean-side patio, a private hot tub, and a half-bathroom with outdoor shower. The 900square-foot Carriage House apartment sleeps four and has glass walls facing the mountain and sea, plus a kitchen, a den, decks, and a loft bedroom. The four-bedroom main house contains a fireplace, a sunken Roman bath, cathedral ceilings, and other extras. On-site is a natural pool with a waterfall and an oceanfront hot tub. You’re welcome to pick fruit, vegetables, and flowers from the extensive garden. Homemade scones, tree-ripened papayas, and fresh-roasted coffee start your day. Despite its seclusion, it’s just a half-hour to Kahului, or about 20 minutes to Paia’s shops and restaurants.

Huelo Point Flower Farm

Off Hana Hwy., between mile markers 3 and 4. P.O. Box 791808, Paia, HI 96779. & 808/572-1850. www.mauiflowerfarm.com. 4 units. $150 cottage double; $175 carriage house double; $325 guesthouse double; $425 main house double (sleeps 6). Extra person $20–$35. 7-night minimum for main house; 2-night minimum for other units. No credit cards. Amenities: Outdoor pool; 3 Jacuzzis; self-serve washer/dryer. In room: TV, kitchenette (in cottage), kitchen (in houses), fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer.

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In the middle of nowhere lies this Finds nearly 2-acre tropical botanical garden with four bungalows dotting the property. Just a couple of miles down the serpentine Hana Highway from Huelo, in the remote area of Kailua, is an unlikely place for accommodations (it’s a 30-min. drive to the nearest beach and 1 hr. to Hana), but for those who want to get away from it all, this could be your place. The small cabanas range from one-room studios with a futon and full kitchen to compact accommodations with basic kitchenette amenities. They all face out into gorgeous gardens. In the midst of the botanical garden is a pool, with cabana and covered barbecue area, and a hot tub. The garden sits right on the Hana Highway, so ask for a unit away from the road. Even if you don’t stay here, stop by and visit the garden; hosts Kirk and Shelley love to show it off.

Kailua Maui Gardens

Located between mile marker 5 and 6 on the Hana Hwy. S.R. 1, Box 9, Haiku, HI 96708. & 800/258-8588 or 808/572-9726. Fax 808/575-2966. www.kailuamaui gardens.com. 4 units. $90–$145 double. 2-night minimum. No credit cards. Amenities: Outdoor pool; 2 hot tubs; laundry facilities. In room: TV/VCR, CD/stereo, kitchen or kitchenette, fridge, coffeemaker.

6 At the End of the Road in East Maui: Hana To locate the following accommodations, see the “Hana” map on p. 149.

EXPENSIVE Hotel Hana-Maui Picture Shangri-La, Hawaiian-style: 66 acres rolling down to the sea in a remote Hawaiian village, with a wellness center, two pools, and access to one of the best beaches in Hana (a 5-min. shuttle ride away). Every unit is excellent, but our favorites are the Sea Ranch Cottages (especially units 215–218 for the best views of turtles frolicking in the ocean), where individual duplex bungalows look out over the craggy shoreline to the rolling surf. The oversize, airy units open up to a huge lanai with excellent views. These comfy units have been totally redecorated with every amenity you can think of (with no nickle-and-diming you with charges for coffee, water, and so on—everything from the homemade banana bread to the bottled water is complimentary). Cathedral ceilings, plush feather bed, giant-size soaking tub, Hawaiian art work, bamboo hardwood floors—this is the vacation of luxury. There are no TVs in the rooms, but the Club Room has a giant screen TV, plus VCR and Internet access. The numerous activities

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available include horseback riding, mountain bicycles, tennis, and pitch and putt golf. Hana, Maui 96713. & 800/321-HANA or 808/248-8211. Fax 808/248-7202. www.hotelhanamaui.com. 78 units. $295–$365 Bay Cottages double; $395–$725 Sea Ranch Cottages double; 2-bedroom Plantation Guest House from $1,500. $50 extra person. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (with Hawaiian entertainment twice a week); bar (with nightly entertainment); 2 outdoor pools; complimentary use of the 3-hole practice golf course (clubs are complimentary as well); complimentary tennis courts; fitness center; game room; concierge; activity desk; car-rental desk; business center; small shopping arcade; salon; room service; inroom and spa massage; babysitting; laundry service. In room: Dataport, kitchenette, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

MODERATE Ekena This 81⁄ 2-acre piece of paradise in rural Hana Finds boasts ocean and rainforest views; the floor-to-ceiling glass doors in the spacious Hawaiian-style pole house bring the outside in. The elegant two-story home is exquisitely furnished, from the comfortable U-shaped couch that invites you to relax and take in the view to the top-of-the-line mattress on the king bed. The kitchen is fully equipped with every high-tech convenience you can imagine (guests have made complete holiday meals here). Only one floor (and a two-bedroom unit) is rented at any one time to ensure privacy. The grounds are impeccably groomed and dotted with tropical plants and fruit trees. Hiking trails into the rainforest start right on the property, and beaches and waterfalls are just minutes away. P.O. Box 728 (off Hana Hwy., above Hana Airport), Hana, HI 96713. & 808/ 248-7047. Fax 808/248-7047. www.ekenamaui.com. 2 units. $185 for 2; $250–$350 for 4. Extra person $25. 3-night minimum. No credit cards. Amenities: Complimentary use of washer/dryers. In room: TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, iron.

Down a country lane guarded Finds by two Balinese statues stands a carefully crafted bungalow and an Asian-inspired two-bedroom house overlooking Hamoa Bay. This enchanting retreat is just 2 miles beyond Hasegawa’s general store on the way to Kipahulu. It sits on 4 verdant acres within walking distance of beautiful Hamoa Beach. The 600-square-foot Balinesestyle cottage is distinctly tropical, with giant bamboo furniture from Indonesia, batik prints, a king bed, a full kitchen, and a screened porch with hot tub and shower. Hidden from the cottage is a 1,300square-foot home with a soaking tub and private outdoor stone shower. It offers a bamboo king bed in one room, a queen bed in another, a screened-in sleeping porch, a full kitchen, and wonderful ocean views.

Hamoa Bay Bungalow

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P.O. Box 773, Hana, HI 96713. & 808/248-7884. Fax 808/248-7047. www. hamoabay.com. 2 units. $195 cottage (sleeps only 2); $250 house for 2, $350 house for 4. 3-night minimum. No credit cards. Amenities: Hot tub, complimentary use of washer/dryers. In room: TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, iron.

Hana Hale Malamalama sits on a Finds historic site with ancient fish ponds and a cave mentioned in ancient chants. Host John takes excellent care of the ponds (you’re welcome to watch him feed the fish at 5pm daily) and is fiercely protective of the hidden cave. There’s access to a nearby rocky beach, which isn’t good for swimming but makes a wonderful place to watch the sunset. All accommodations include fully equipped kitchens, bathrooms, bedrooms, living/dining areas, and private lanais. Next to the fish pond, the Royal Lodge, a 2600-square-foot architectural masterpiece built entirely of Philippine mahogany, has large skylights the entire length of the house and can be rented as a house or two separate units. The oceanfront Bamboo Inn contains two units (a studio and a one- or two-bedroom unit). The cottages range from a separate two-level Tree House cottage, with Jacuzzi tub for two, small kitchen/living area, and deck upstairs, to the Pond Side Bungalow, which features a private outdoor Jacuzzi tub and shower.

Hana Hale Malamalama

P.O. Box 374, Hana, HI 96713. & 808/248-7718. www.hanahale.com. 7 units. $125–$225 double. Extra person $15. 2-night minimum. No credit cards. Amenities: Jacuzzi. In room: TV/VCR, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker.

Hana Oceanfront Just across the street from Hamoa Bay, Hana’s premier white-sand beach, lie these two plantation-style units, impeccably decorated in old Hawaii decor. Our favorite unit is the romantic cottage, complete with an old-fashioned front porch where you can sit and watch the ocean; separate bedroom (with a bamboo sleigh bed), plus pullout sofa for extra guests; top notch kitchen appliances; and comfy living room. The 1,000 square foot vacation suite, located downstairs from hosts Dan and Sandi’s home (but totally soundproof—you’ll never hear them) has an elegant master bedroom with polished bamboo flooring; spacious tiled bathroom, and a fully-appointed gourmet kitchen. Outside is a 320-square foot lanai. The units sit on the road facing Hana’s most popular beach, so there is traffic during the day. At night, the traffic disappears, the stars come out, and the sound of the ocean soothes you to sleep. Hana. Reservations c/o Hawaii’s Best Bed & Breakfasts, P.O. Box 758, Volcano, HI 96785. & 800/262-9912 or 808/985-7488. Fax 808/967-8610. www.bestbnb.com. 2 units. $190–$225 double; 2-night minimum. No credit cards. In room: TV/VCR, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

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Heavenly Hana Inn Owners Robert and Sheryl Filippi Finds humbly describe their B&B as a “Japanese-style inn.” This place on the Hana Highway, just a stone’s throw from the center of Hana town, is a little bit of heaven, where no attention to detail has been spared. Each suite has a sitting room with futon and couch, polished hardwood floors, and separate bedroom with a raised platform bed (with an excellent, firm mattress). The black-marble bathrooms have huge tubs. Flowers are everywhere, ceiling fans keep the rooms cool, and the delicious gourmet breakfast is worth splurging for. The spacious grounds are done in Japanese style with a bamboo fence, tiny bridges over a meandering stream, and Japanese gardens. P.O. Box 790, Hana, HI 96713. & and fax 808/248-8442. www.heavenlyhana inn.com. 3 units. $185–$250 suite. Full gourmet breakfast available for $15 per person. Ask about special rates. 2-night minimum. AE, DISC, MC, V. No children under age 15 accepted. Amenities: Laundry service. In room: TV, no phone.

INEXPENSIVE Value Nestled among the ginger and heliconias on a 5-acre flower farm are two separate cottages, each with full kitchen, barbecue, private hot tub, TV, ceiling fans, and sofa bed. The studio cottage sleeps up to four; a bamboo shoji blind separates the sleeping area (with queen bed) from the sofa bed in the living room. The Tradewinds cottage has two bedrooms (with a queen bed in one room and two twins in the other) and a huge front porch. The atmosphere is quiet and relaxing, and hostess Rebecca Buckley welcomes families (she has two children, a cat, and a very sweet golden retriever). You can use the laundry facilities at no extra charge.

Hana’s Tradewinds Cottage

135 Alalele Place (the airport road), P.O. Box 385, Hana, HI 96713. & 800/3278097 or 808/248-8980. Fax 808/248-7735. www.hanamaui.net. 2 cottages. $120 studio double; $145 2-bedroom double. Extra person $10. 2-night minimum. AE, DISC, MC, V. In room: TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, no phone. Value On the road to Waianapanapa State Park is the “deal” of Hana—two one-bedroom units, each with pullout sofa beds in the living room, full kitchen, cable TV (a plus in Hana), and washer/dryer, within walking distance of a fabulous black-sand beach. Outside is a large lanai for watching the clouds go by, with a barbecue area with picnic table in the yard. Book early; this is one of Maui’s best deals for the budget traveler.

Kulani’s Hideaway in Hana, Maui

P.O. Box 483, Hana, HI 96713. & and fax 808/248-8234 or 808/268-9248. kulanis@ maui.net. 2 units. $65 double. Extra person $15. Amenities: Complimentary coffee. In room: TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker; washer/dryer; no phone.

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Waianapanapa State Park Cabins Value These 12 rustic cabins are the best lodging deal on Maui. Everyone knows it, too—so make your reservations early (up to 6 months in advance). The cabins are warm and dry and come complete with kitchen, living room, bedroom, and bathroom with hot shower; furnishings include bedding, linen, towels, dishes, and very basic cooking and eating utensils. Don’t expect luxury—this is a step above camping, albeit in a beautiful tropical jungle setting. The key attraction at this 120-acre state beach park is the unusual horseshoe-shaped black-sand beach on Pailoa Bay, popular for shore fishing, snorkeling, and swimming. There are also shoreline hiking trails and historic sites. But bring mosquito protection—this is the jungle, after all. Off Hana Hwy. c/o State Parks Division, 54 S. High St., Rm. 101, Wailuku, HI 96793. & 808/984-8109. 12 cabins. $45 for 4 (sleeps up to 6). Extra person $5. 5-night maximum. No credit cards. In room: Kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, no phone.

4 Where to Dine ith soaring visitor statistics and a glamorous image, the Valley W Isle is fertile ground for enterprising chefs, and consequently, dining on Maui has become a culinary treat able to hold its own against most major metropolitan areas. Despite the recent change and growth in Maui’s dining scene, some things haven’t changed: You can still dine well at Lahaina’s open-air waterfront watering holes, where the view counts for 50% of the experience. There are still budget eateries, but not many; Maui’s old-fashioned, multigenerational mom-and-pop diners are disappearing, eclipsed by the flashy newcomers, or clinging to the edge of existence in the older neighborhoods of central Maui, such as lovable Wailuku. Although you’ll have to work harder to find them in the resort areas, you won’t have to go far to find creative cuisine, pleasing style, and stellar dining experiences. In the listings below, reservations are not necessary unless otherwise noted.

1 Central Maui MODERATE A Saigon Cafe VIETNAMESE Jennifer Nguyen has stuck to her guns and steadfastly refused to erect a sign, and diners come anyway. Fans drive from all over the island for her crisped, spiced Dungeness crab, her steamed opakapaka with ginger and garlic, and her wok-cooked Vietnamese specials tangy with spices, herbs, and lemongrass. There are a dozen different soups, cold and hot noodles, and chicken and shrimp cooked in a clay pot. You can create your own Vietnamese “burritos” from a platter of tofu, noodles, and vegetables that you wrap in rice paper and dip in garlic sauce. Among our favorites are the shrimp lemongrass, savory and refreshing, and the tofu curry, swimming in herbs and vegetables straight from the garden.

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1792 Main St., Wailuku. & 808/243-9560. Main courses $6.50–$17. DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 10am–9:30pm; Sun 10am–8:30pm. Heading into Wailuku from Kahului, go over the bridge and take the first right onto Central Ave, then the first right on Nani St. At the next stop sign, look for the building with the neon sign that says “Open.”

Chef Tom Lelli Finds LATIN AMERICAN serves up incomparable fare at this central Maui hot spot. The industrial motif features table bases like hubcaps and gleaming chrome and cobalt walls with orange accents. The brilliantly conceived and executed menu includes fried green tomatoes, done just right and served with slivered red onions; a ceviche with the perfectly balanced flavors and textures of lime, cilantro, chili, coconut, and fresh fish; and arepas (cornmeal and cheese griddle cakes with smoked salmon and wasabi sour cream) that meld the flavors and textures of many traditions.

Mañana Garage

33 Lono Ave., Kahului. & 808/873-0220. Reservations recommended. Main courses lunch $6.95–$13, dinner $12–$26. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon 11am–9pm; Tues–Fri 11am–10:30pm; Sat 5–10:30pm; Sun 5–9pm.

ITALIAN Located in central Maui, where the roads to Upcountry, West, and South Maui converge, Marco’s is popular among locals for its homemade Italian fare and friendly informality. Everything—from the meatballs, sausages, and burgers to the sauces, salad dressings, and ravioli—is made inhouse. The 35 different choices of hot and cold sandwiches and entrees are served all day, and they include vodka rigatoni with imported prosciutto; pasta e’ fasio (a house specialty: smoked ham hock simmered for hours in tomato sauce, with red and white beans); and simple pasta with marinara sauce. This is one of those comfortable neighborhood fixtures favored by all generations. The antipasto salad, vegetarian lasagna, and roasted peppers are taste treats, and the meatballs and Italian sausage are famous in central Maui.

Marco’s Grill & Deli

Dairy Center, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului. & 808/877-4446. Main courses $11–$26. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–10pm.

INEXPENSIVE

The Kaahumanu Center, in the center of Kahului, at 275 Kaahumanu Ave. (5 min. from Kahului Airport on Hwy. 32), has a very popular food court. Edo Japan teppanyaki is a real find, dispensing marvelous, flavorful mounds of grilled fresh vegetables and chicken

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teriyaki for $4.15. Maui Mixed Plate dishes out “local style” cuisine of meat with rice and macaroni salad in the $5 to $7 range. Yummy Korean B-B-Q offers the assertive flavors of Korea; Panda Cuisine serves tasty Chinese food; and the Coffee Store (p. 95) sells sandwiches, salads, pasta, and nearly 2 dozen different coffee drinks. There’s also a branch of Maui Tacos (p. 91). Café O’Lei on Main AMERICAN/ISLAND Dana Pastula has cloned her wonderful Makawao eatery for lucky Wailuku diners. The menu features fresh Island ingredients: taro salad with crisp Molokai sweet potato, seared ahi sandwich with wasabi mayonnaise, fresh fish, and Aloha Friday crab cakes with sweet chili aioli. Sandwiches (crab club, roast turkey breast, roasted Maui vegetables) and salads (including our favorite, curry chicken: hot chicken with peanuts, chiles, ginger, and veggies) complement daily specials such as chicken fettuccine and blackened mahimahi. The plate lunch, at $5.50, is a terrific deal. Tip: You can get a great picnic lunch here for your outing in Iao Valley. Look for sister restaurants in Makawao, Maalaea, and Lahaina. 2051 Main St., Wailuku. & 808/244-6816. Sandwiches $4.95–$6.95; lunch specials $5.50–$7.50. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 10:30am–2:30pm.

Class Act GLOBAL Part of a program run by the distinguished Food Service Department of Maui Community College, this restaurant has a following. Student chefs show their stuff with a flourish in their “classroom,” where they pull out all the stops. Linen, china, servers in ties and white shirts, and a four-course lunch make this a unique value. The appetizer, soup, salad, and dessert are set, but you can choose between the regular entrees and a heart-healthy main course prepared in the culinary tradition of the week (Italy, Mexico, Maui, Napa valley, France, New Orleans, and other locales). The filet mignon of French week is popular, as are the New Orleans gumbo and Cajun shrimp; the sesame-crusted mahimahi on taro leaf pasta; the polenta flan with eggplant; and the bean- and green-chili chilaquile. Tea and soft drinks are offered, but otherwise it’s BYOB. Maui Community College, 310 Kaahumanu Ave., Wailuku. & 808/984-3485. Reservations recommended. 5-course lunch $15. No credit cards. Wed and Fri 11am–12:15pm (last seating); closed June–Aug for summer vacation. Menu and cuisine type change weekly.

What a find: an informal Finds JAPANESE/SUSHI neighborhood restaurant that serves inexpensive, home-cooked

Ichiban

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Japanese food and good sushi at realistic prices. Local residents consider Ichiban a staple for breakfast, lunch, or dinner and a haven of comforts: egg-white omelets; great saimin; combination plates of teriyaki chicken, teriyaki beef, tonkatsu (pork cutlet), rice, and pickled cabbage; chicken yakitori; and sushi—everything from unagi and scallop to California roll. The sushi items may not be inexpensive, but like the specials, such as steamed opakapaka, they’re a good value. We love the tempura, miso soup, and spicy ahi hand roll. Kahului Shopping Center, 47 Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului. & 808/871-6977. Main courses $4.25–$5.25 breakfast; $5.50–$9.50 lunch (combination plates $8); $5.95–$28 dinner (combination dinner $12, dinner specials from $8.95). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 6:30am–2pm and 5–9pm; Sat 10:30am–2pm and 5–9pm; closed 2 weeks around Christmas and New Year.

Maui Bake Shop BAKERY/DELI Maui native Claire Fujii-Krall and her husband, baker Jose Krall, turn out buttery brioches, healthy nine-grain and two-tone rye breads, focaccia, strudels, sumptuous fresh-fruit gâteaux, puff pastries, and dozens of other baked goods and confections at their Wailuku shop. The front window displays more than 100 bakery and deli items, among them salads, a popular eggplant marinara focaccia, homemade quiches, and an inexpensive calzone filled with chicken, pesto, mushroom, and cheese. Homemade soups (clam chowder, minestrone, cream of asparagus) team up nicely with sandwiches on freshly baked bread. Don’t miss the Ultimate Dessert: white-chocolate macadamia-nut cheesecake. 2092 Vineyard St., Wailuku. & 808/242-0064. Most items under $5. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 6am–4pm; Sat 7am–2pm.

Restaurant Matsu JAPANESE/LOCAL Customers come from miles away just for Matsu’s California rolls, while regulars line up for the cold saimin (julienned cucumber, egg, Chinese-style sweet pork, and red ginger on noodles) and for the bento plates, various assemblages of chicken, teriyaki beef, fish, and rice. The nigiri sushi items are also popular. The katsu pork and chicken, breaded and deepfried, are other specialties of this casual Formica-style diner. We love the tempura udon and the saimin, steaming mounds of noodles in homemade broths and topped with condiments. The daily specials are a changing lineup of home-cooked classics: oxtail soup, roast pork with gravy, teriyaki ahi, miso butterfish, and breaded mahimahi. Maui Mall, 161 Alamaha St., Kahului. & 808/871-0822. Most items less than $6. No credit cards. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm.

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2 West Maui LAHAINA There’s a Maui Tacos (p. 91) in Lahaina Square (& 808/6618883). Maui’s branch of the Hard Rock Cafe is in Lahaina at 900 Front St. (& 808/667-7400). VERY EXPENSIVE David Paul’s Lahaina Grill

Kids NEW AMERICAN Even after David Paul Johnson’s departure, this Lahaina hot spot has maintained its popularity. It’s still filled with chic, tanned diners, and there’s still attitude aplenty at the entrance. The signature items remain: tequila shrimp and firecracker rice, Kona coffee–roasted rack of lamb, kalua duck, and an excellent eggplant napoleon. As always, a special custom-designed chef’s table can be arranged with 72-hour notice for larger parties. The ambience—black-and-white tile floors, pressed tin ceilings, eclectic 1890s decor—is striking, and the bar, even without an ocean view, is the busiest spot in Lahaina. The children’s menu is more sophisticated than usual (no burgers or hot dogs), but offers plenty of options for the little ones; entrees are $12.

127 Lahainaluna Rd. & 808/667-5117. www.lahainagrill.com. Reservations required. Main courses $26–$38. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–10pm. Bar daily 5:30pm–midnight.

POLYNESIAN The owners of Old Lahaina Luau (see “A Night to Remember: Luau, Maui Style” on p. 172), have teamed up with Chef James McDonald’s culinary prowess (I’o and Pacific’o), placed it in a perfect outdoor oceanfront setting, and added the exquisite dancers of the Old Lahaina Luau. The result: a culinary and cultural experience that sizzles. Dances from Hawaii, Tonga, Tahiti, and Samoa are presented in full costumed splendor. Chanting, singing, drumming, dancing, the swish of ti-leaf skirts, the scent of plumeria—it’s a full culinary-cultural adventure. Guests sit at white-clothed, candlelit tables set on the sand (unlike the luau, where seating is en masse) and dine on kalua pig, tasty steamed moi, and savory pohole ferns and hearts of palm. From Tonga come lobster-ogo (seaweed) salad and grilled steak, from Tahiti steamed chicken and taro leaf in coconut milk, and from Samoa grilled fish in banana leaf. Particularly mesmerizing is the evening’s opening: A softly lit canoe carries three people ashore to the sound of conch shells.

The Feast at Lele

505 Front St. & 886/244-5353 or 808/667-5353. www.feastatlele.com. Reservations a must. Set 5-course menu $89 for adults, $59 for children 2–12; gratuity not included. AE, MC, V. Apr 1–Sept 30, Tues–Sat 6–9pm; Oct 1–Mar 31, 5:30–8:30pm.

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EXPENSIVE Gerard’s

The charm of Gerard’s—soft Finds FRENCH lighting, Edith Piaf on the sound system, excellent service—is matched by a menu of uncompromising standards. A frequent winner of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, Gerard’s offers roasted opakapaka with star anise, fennel fondue, and hints of orange and ginger, a stellar entree on a menu of winners. The Kona lobster ragout with pasta and morels promises ecstasy, and the spinach salad with scallops is among the finest we’ve tasted. Gerard’s has an excellent appetizer menu, with shiitake and oyster mushrooms in puff pastry, fresh ahi and smoked salmon carpaccio, and a very rich, highly touted escargot ragout with burgundy butter and garlic cream.

In the Plantation Inn, 174 Lahainaluna Rd. & 808/661-8939. www.gerards maui.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $27–$33. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6–9pm.

PACIFIC RIM I’o is a fantasy of sleek curves and etched glass, co-owned by chef James McDonald. He offers an impressive selection of appetizers and some lavish Asian-Polynesian interpretations of seafood, such as stir-fried lobster with mango-Thai curry sauce, fresh ahi in a nori panko crust, and lemongrass coconut fish. Unless you’re sold on entrees, our advice is to go heavy on the superb appetizers, especially the silken purse, a brilliant concoction of tricolored pot stickers stuffed with roasted peppers, mushrooms, spinach, macadamia nuts, and silken tofu. Oyster lovers, take heed: The memorable Pan-Asian Rockefellers are baked on a bed of spinach and served with a hint of star anise coconut cream.

I’o

505 Front St. & 808/661-8422. www.iomaui.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$30. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–10pm.

Pacific’o Restaurant PACIFIC RIM/CONTEMPORARY PACIFIC You can’t get any closer to the ocean than the tables here, which are literally on the beach. With good food complementing this sensational setting, foodies and aesthetes have much to enjoy. The split-level dining starts near the entrance, with a long bar (where you can also order lunch or dinner) and a few tables along the railing. Steps lead to the outdoor tables, where the awardwinning seafood dishes come to you with the backdrop of Lanai across the channel. The prawn and basil wontons, fresh fish over wilted arugula and bean sprouts, and ahi and ono tempura with miso and lime-basil sauce are among Pacific’o’s memorable offerings. The

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vegetarian special, a marinated, roasted tofu steak with quinoa, Maui onions, red lentils and a heavenly dose of shiitake mushrooms, is a longtime favorite. 505 Front St. & 808/667-4341. www.pacificomaui.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$14 lunch, $19–$38 dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–4pm and 5:30–10pm.

M O D E R AT E Compadres Bar & Grill MEXICAN

Despite its concrete floor and high industrial ceilings, Compadres exudes good cheer. And that cheer has burgeoned lately with a new open-air seating area and a take-out taqueria window for diners on the run. The food is classic Tex-Mex, good any time of the day, beginning with huevos rancheros, egg burritos, hotcakes, and omelets (the Acapulco is heroic) and progressing to enchiladas and appetizers for the margarita-happy crowd. Stay spare (vegetable enchilada in fresh spinach tortilla) or get hefty (Texas T-bone and enchiladas). This is a carefree place with a large capacity for merrymaking.

Lahaina Cannery Mall, 1221 Honoapiilani Hwy. & 808/661-7189. Main courses $10–$20. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 8am–10pm.

Kimo’s STEAK/SEAFOOD Kimo’s has a loyal following that keeps it from falling into the faceless morass of waterfront restaurants serving surf-and-turf with great sunset views. It’s a formula restaurant (sibling to Leilani’s and Hula Grill) that works not only because of its oceanfront patio and upstairs dining room, but also because, for the price, there are some satisfying choices. It’s always crowded, buzzing with people on a deck offering views of Molokai, Lanai, and Kahoolawe. Burgers and sandwiches are affordable and consistent, and the fresh catch baked in a garlic, lemon, and sweet basil glaze is a top seller. Hula pie—macadamia-nut ice cream in a chocolatewafer crust with fudge and whipped cream—originated here. 845 Front St. & 808/661-4811. www.kimosmaui.com. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses $6.95–$11 lunch, $15–$24 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–3pm and 5–10:30pm; bar open 11am–1:30am.

Lahaina Fish Company SEAFOOD

The open-air dining room is literally over the water, with an affordable menu that covers the seafood-pasta basics. Head to an oceanside table and order a cheeseburger, chicken burger, fish burger, generous basket of peel-and-eat shrimp, or sashimi—lingering is highly recommended. The light lunch/grill menu offers appetizers (sashimi, seared ahi, spring rolls, and pot stickers), salads, and soups. Dinner selections include

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hand-carved steaks, several pasta choices, and local fare such as stirfry dishes, teriyaki chicken, and luau-style ribs. The specialty, though, remains the fresh seafood: four types of fresh fish are offered nightly, in three preparations, and Pacific Rim specials include fresh ahi, seared spicy or cooked in a sweet ginger-soy sauce. 831 Front St. & 808/661-3472. Main courses $10–$26. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight.

Woody’s Island Grill AMERICAN The owners of Cheeseburger in Paradise closed Aloha Cantina and replaced it with Woody’s, a big improvement. You’ll walk through an aloha-shirt shop to enter the open-air oceanfront room, where a wood-burning grill cooks fresh ono, mahimahi (with mango ginger butter), ribs, New York steak, and other surf-and-turf choices. Other options include sandwiches, such as an excellent blackened ahi with wasabi aioli, Cajun fish tacos, and coconut shrimp with sweet-and-sour sauce. The grilled opakapaka, with a lemon-caper-butter sauce and coconut shrimp, is very popular. 839 Front St. & 808/661-8788. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$22. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.

INEXPENSIVE Aloha Mixed Plate

Value PLATE LUNCHES/BEACHSIDE GRILL Look for the festive turquoise-and-yellow, plantation-style front directly across from the Lahaina Cannery Mall. Grab an oceanview table, then tuck into inexpensive mahimahi, kalua pig and cabbage, shoyu chicken, teriyaki beef, and other local platelunch specials, all at budget-friendly prices, served with macaroni salad and rice. The shoyu chicken is the best we’ve had, fork tender and tasty, and the spicy chicken drumettes come from a fabled family recipe. (The bestsellers are the coconut prawns and Aloha Mixed Plate of shoyu chicken, teriyaki beef, and mahimahi.) We don’t know of anywhere else where you can order a mai tai with a plate lunch and enjoy table service with an ocean view.

1285 Front St. & 808/661-3322. www.alohamixedplate.com. Main courses $4.95–$9.95. MC, V. Daily 10:30am–10pm.

Cheeseburger in Paradise AMERICAN

Wildly successful, always crowded, and very noisy with its live music in the evenings, Cheeseburger is a shrine to the American classic. You’ll find everything from tofu and garden burgers to big, juicy beef and chicken burgers, served on freshly-baked buns. There are good reasons why this place is always packed: good value, good grinds, and a great

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ocean view. The Cheeseburger in Paradise is a hefty hunk with Jack and cheddar cheeses, sautéed onions, lettuce, fresh tomatoes, and Thousand Island dressing. You can build your own burger by adding sautéed mushrooms, bacon, grilled ortega chilis, and other condiments for an extra charge. Onion rings, chili-cheese fries, and cold beer complete the carefree fantasy. 811 Front St. & 808/661-4855. www.cheeseburgermaui.com. Burgers $7.50–$8.50. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 8am–10pm.

Down to Earth Value ORGANIC HEALTH FOOD This is one of the best deals in West Maui. Healthy organic ingredients, 90% vegan, appear in scrumptious salads, lasagna, chili, curries, and dozens of tasty dishes, presented at hot-and-cold serve-yourself stations. Stools line the abundant windows in the simple dining area, where a few tables are available for those who don’t want takeout. (For all you cyberjunkies, there’s Internet access, too.) The food is great, and includes millet cakes, mock tofu chicken, curried tofu, and Greek salad, plus pleasing condiments. The tofu curry has apples, raw cashews, and raisins, and is fabulous. Because the food is sold by the pound, you can buy a hearty, wholesome plate for $7. Vitamin supplements, health food products, fresh produce, and cosmetics fill the rest of the store. 193 Lahainaluna Rd. & 808/667-2855. Self-serve hot buffet and salad bar; food sold by the pound. Average $6–$8 for a plate. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7:30am–9pm; Sun 8:30am–8pm.

Lahaina Coolers AMERICAN/INTERNATIONAL

A huge marlin hangs above the bar, epic wave shots and wall sconces made of surfboard fins line the walls, and open windows on three sides of this ultracasual indoor/outdoor restaurant take advantage of the shade trees. This is a great breakfast joint, with feta-cheese Mediterranean omelets, huevos rancheros, fried jasmine rice, Kula vegetables, and Portuguese sausage. There are three types of eggs Benedict—the classic, an excellent vegetarian version, and the local, with Portuguese sausage and sweetbread. At lunch, burgers and sandwiches, from grilled portobellos to the classic tuna melt, take over. Made fresh daily, the pasta is prepared Asian style (chicken breast in a spicy Thai peanut sauce), with pesto, and vegetarian, in a spicy creole sauce. Pizzas, fresh catch, steak, and enchiladas round out the entrees.

180 Dickensen St. & 808/661-7082. www.lahainacoolers.com. Main courses lunch $7.50–$11, dinner $11–$19. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 8am–2am (full menu until midnight).

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Maui Swiss Cafe SANDWICHES/PIZZA

Newly renovated and double its original size, Swiss Cafe now has five Internet stations (three of them with flat-screen monitors) and continues to serve excellent sandwiches and continental breakfast. The $5 lunch specials and $2 ice cream makes this a welcome stop in hot Lahaina. Top-quality breads baked fresh daily, Dijon mustard, good Swiss cheese, and keen attention to sandwich fillings and pizza toppings make this a very special sandwich shop. The Swiss owner, Dominique Martin, has imbued this corner of Lahaina with a European flavor, down to the menus printed in English and German and the Swiss breakfast of sliced ham, Emmentaler cheese, hard-boiled egg, and freshly baked croissant. Watch for the “signature melt” sandwiches, with imported Emmentaler cheese baked on an Italian Parmesan crust.

640 Front St. & 808/661-6776. www.swisscafe.net. Sandwiches and 8-in. pizzas $5.95–$7.95. No credit cards. Daily 9am–6pm.

KAANAPALI EXPENSIVE Swan Court

CONTINENTAL Swan Court is wonderful in a resorty sort of way, with a dance floor, waterfalls, flamingos, and an ocean view adding to the package. Come here as a splurge or on a bottomless expense account, and enjoy Pacific lobster coconut soup, rock shrimp crab cake, Maui sugar cane skewered ahi, and sautéed opakapaka in striking surroundings. The menu sticks to the tried-and-true, making Swan Court a safe choice for those who like a respectable and well-executed selection in a romantic setting with candlelight, a Japanese garden, and swans gliding by serenely. A year-round Valentine dinner. In the Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr. & 808/661-1234. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses $30–$38. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6:30–11:30am; Tues–Sat 6–10pm.

M O D E R AT E Beachside Grill and Leilani’s on the Beach STEAK/

SEAFOOD The Beachside Grill is the informal, less-expensive room downstairs on the beach, where folks wander in off the sand for a frothy beer and a beachside burger. Leilani’s is the dinner-only room, with more expensive but still not outrageously priced steak and seafood offerings. At Leilani’s, you can order everything from affordable spinach, cheese, and mushroom ravioli to lobster and steak. Children can get a burger for under $5 or a broiled chicken breast for a couple of dollars more. Pasta, rack of lamb, filet mignon,

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and Alaskan king crab at market price are among the choices in the upstairs room. Although the steak-and-lobster combinations can be pricey, the good thing about Leilani’s is the strong middle range of entree prices, especially the fresh fish for around $20 to $25. All of this comes with an ocean view. There’s live Hawaiian music every afternoon except Fridays, when the Rock ’n’ Roll Aloha Friday set gets those decibels climbing. Free concerts are usually offered on a stage outside the restaurant on the last Sunday of the month. In Whalers Village, 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy. & 808/661-4495. www.leilanis.com. Reservations suggested for dinner. Lunch and dinner (Beachside Grill) $6.95–$13; dinner (Leilani’s) from $18. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Beachside Grill daily 11am–11pm (bar daily until 12:30am); Leilani’s daily 5–10pm. Kids HAWAII REGIONAL/SEAFOOD Come here to tuck into crab-and-corn cakes, banana-glazed opah, macadamianut-roasted opakapaka, or crab won tons under a thatched umbrella, with a view of Lanai across the channel. Peter Merriman, one of the originators of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, segued seamlessly from his smallish, Big Island upcountry enclave to this large, high-volume, open-air dining room on the beach. Hula Grill offers a wide range of prices and choices. The menu includes Merriman’s signature firecracker mahimahi, seafood pot stickers, and several different fresh-fish preparations, including his famous ahi poke rolls— lightly sautéed rare ahi wrapped in rice paper with Maui onions. At lunch the menu is more limited, with a choice of sandwiches, entrees, pizza, appetizers, and salads. There’s happy-hour entertainment and Hawaiian music daily. The more casual Barefoot Bar, located on the beach, offers burgers, fish, pizza, and salads.

Hula Grill

In Whalers Village, 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy. & 808/667-6636. www.hulagrill.com. Reservations recommended for dinner. Lunch and Barefoot Bar menus $5.95–$12; dinner main courses from $13. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.

INEXPENSIVE

Whalers Village has a food court where you can buy pizza, very good Japanese food, Korean plates, and fast-food burgers at serveyourself counters and courtyard tables. It’s an inexpensive alternative and a quick, handy stop for shoppers and Kaanapali beachgoers. Pizza Paradiso PIZZA Pizza Paradiso took over the ice cream counter next door and expanded to include a full menu of pastas, pizzas, and desserts, including smoothies, coffee, and ice cream. The pizza reflects a simple and effective formula that has won acclaim through the years: good crust, true-blue sauces, and toppings loyal to tradition but with just enough edge for those who want it.

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Create your own pizza with roasted eggplant, mushrooms, anchovies, artichoke hearts, spicy sausages, cheeses, and a slew of other toppings. Pizza Paradiso offers some heroic choices, from the “Veg Wedge” to the “Maui Wowie” (ham and Maui pineapple) and the “God Father” (roasted chicken, artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes). Also popular is Pizza Paradiso’s Honokowai location (see below), where award-winning pastas are part of the draw. In Whalers Village, 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy. & 808/667-0333. www.pizza paradiso.com. Gourmet pizza $3.65–$4.45 (by the slice); whole pizzas $12–$26. MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.

HONOKOWAI, KAHANA & NAPILI EXPENSIVE Roy’s Kahana Bar & Grill/Roy’s Nicolina Restaurant

EURO-ASIAN These sibling restaurants are next door to each other, offer the same menu, and are busy, busy, busy. They bustle with young, hip servers impeccably trained to deliver blackened ahi or perfectly seared lemongrass shutome (broadbill swordfish) hot to your table, in rooms that sizzle with cross-cultural tastings. Both are known for their rack of lamb and fresh seafood (usually eight or nine choices), and for their large, open kitchens that turn out everything from pizza to sake-grilled New York steak. If polenta is on the menu, don’t resist; on my last visit, the polenta was fabulous and rich, with garlic, cream, spinach, and wild mushrooms. Large picture windows open up Roy’s Kahana but don’t quell the noise, another tireless trait long ago established by Roy’s Restaurant in Honolulu, the flagship of Yamaguchi’s burgeoning empire. The restaurant has banquet facilities for up to 70 people, while Roy’s Nicolina features dining on the lanai. In the Kahana Gateway Shopping Center, 4405 Honoapiilani Hwy. & 808/ 669-6999. www.roysrestaurant.com. Reservations strongly recommended. Main courses $14–$31. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Roy’s Kahana daily 5:30–10pm; Roy’s Nicolina daily 5:30–9:30pm.

Sea House Restaurant ASIAN/PACIFIC

The Sea House is not glamorous, famous, or hip, but it’s worth mentioning for its gorgeous view of Napili Bay. It is spectacular. The Napili Kai Beach Club, where Sea House is located, is a charming throwback to the days when hotels blended in with their surroundings, had lush tropical foliage, and were sprawling rather than vertical. Dinner entrees come complete with soup or salad, vegetables, and rice or potato. The lighter appetizer menu is a delight—more than a dozen choices ranging from sautéed or blackened crab cake to crisp Pacific Rim

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sushi of ahi capped in nori and cooked tempura-style. On Friday nights, a Polynesian dinner show features the children of the Napili Kai Foundation, an organization devoted to supporting Hawaiian culture. They share top billing with the million-dollar view. In Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Honoapiilani Hwy. & 808/669-1500. Reservations required for dinner. Main courses $18–$49; appetizer menu $5–$14. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Fri 8–10:30am, and noon–2pm; pupu menu Sat–Thurs 2–9pm, Fri 2–7:30pm, and 5:30–9pm (6–9pm in summer); Fri Polynesian Show 6–9pm.

M O D E R AT E Fish & Game Brewing Co. & Rotisserie SEAFOOD/STEAK

The restaurant consists of an oyster bar, deli counter and retail section, and tables. The small retail section sells fresh seafood, while the sit-down menu covers basic tastes: salads (Caesar, Asian chicken with won tons), fish and chips, fresh-fish sandwiches, cheeseburgers, and beer. At dinner, count on heavier meats and the fresh catch of the day (ahi, mahimahi, ono), with rotisserie items such as grilled chicken, steaks, and duck. The late-night menu offers shrimp, cheese fries, quesadillas, and lighter fare. In the Kahana Gateway Shopping Center, 4405 Honoapiilani Hwy. & 808/ 669-3474. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses $6.95–$13 lunch, $14–$31 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm; late-night menu 10:30pm–1am. During football season (Sept–Jan) brunch Sat–Sun 7:30am–3pm.

INEXPENSIVE

In Honokowai, there’s a branch of Pizza Paradiso (p. 89) in the Honokowai Marketplace, 3350 Lower Honoapiilani Rd. (& 808/ 667-2929). Maui Tacos Kids MEXICAN Mark Ellman’s Maui Tacos chain has grown faster than you can say “Haleakala.” Ellman put gourmet Mexican on paper plates and on the island’s culinary map long before the island became known as Hawaii’s center of salsa and chimichangas. Choices include excellent fresh-fish tacos (garlicky and flavorful), chimichangas, and mouth-breaking compositions such as the Hookipa, a “surf burrito” of fresh fish, black beans, and salsa and a personal favorite. The green-spinach burrito contains four kinds of beans, rice, and potatoes—it’s a knockout, requiring a siesta afterward. In Napili Plaza, 5095 Napili Hau St. & 808/665-0222. www.mauitacos.com. Items range from $1.65–$7. No credit cards. Daily 9am–9pm.

KAPALUA The Bay Club SEAFOOD The view of Molokai across the rolling surf of Kapalua Bay alone would be worth eating here, but

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luckily, the food, especially the seafood, promises a memorable dining experience. This intimate restaurant (with a piano bar at one end), originally designed as a private club, features such culinary masterpieces as steamed Kona lobster in banana leaf; ahi and cured salmon sashimi; macadamia-nut-crusted mahimahi with papaya pineapple salsa and passion fruit salsa; and Hawaiian seafood bouillabaisse (with lobsters, prawns, and local fish in a saffron broth). Save room for dessert (try the guava, mango, and litchi napoleon for an island-style treat). Service is impeccable, the wine list extensive. For those that just can’t make up their minds, the chef can prepare a four-course tasting of the Bay Club’s signature dishes. 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua & 808/669-8008. Reservations recommended. Main courses $33–$38. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6–9pm.

SEAFOOD/HAWAIIANMEDITERRANEAN With its teak tables, fireplace, and open sides, Plantation House gets stellar marks for atmosphere. The 360 degree hilltop view takes in Molokai and Lanai, the ocean, the rolling fairways and greens, the northwestern flanks of the West Maui Mountains, and the daily sunset spectacular. Readers of the Maui News have given it the island’s “Best Ambience” award. It’s the best place for breakfast in West Maui, hands down, and one of my top choices for dinner. The menu changes constantly but may include fresh fish prepared several ways—among them, Mediterranean (seared), Upcountry (sautéed with Maui onions and vegetable sauté), Island (pan-seared in sweet sake and macadamia nuts), and Rich Forest (with roasted wild mushrooms), the top seller. At breakfast, the Eggs Mediterranean is superb, and at lunch, sandwiches (open-faced smoked turkey, roasted vegetable, and goat cheese wrap) and salads rule. The dinner menu expands to marvelous starters such as polenta and scampi-style shrimp, crab cakes, Kula and Mediterranean salads, and a hearty entree selection of fish, pork tenderloin, roast duck, and filet mignon with apple-smoked Maui onion.

Plantation House Restaurant

2000 Plantation Club Dr. (at Kapalua Plantation Golf Course). & 808/669-6299. www.theplantationhouse.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $19–$30. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 8am–3pm and 5:30–10pm.

Sansei Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar PACIFIC RIM Perpetual award-winner Sansei proffers an extensive menu of Japanese and East-West delicacies. Furiously fusion, part Hawaii Regional Cuisine, and all parts sushi, Sansei is tirelessly creative, with a menu that scores higher with adventurous palates than with purists

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(although there are endless traditional choices as well). Maki is the mantra here. If you don’t like cilantro, watch out for those complex spicy crab rolls. Other choices include Panko-crusted ahi sashimi, sashimi trio, ahi carpaccio, noodle dishes, lobster, Asian rockshrimp cakes, traditional Japanese tempura, and sauces that surprise, in creative combinations such as ginger-lime chili butter and cilantro pesto. But there’s simpler fare as well, such as shrimp tempura, noodles, and wok-tossed upcountry vegetables. Desserts are not to be missed. If it’s autumn, don’t pass up persimmon crème brûlée, made with Kula persimmons. In other seasons, opt for tempura-fried ice cream with chocolate sauce. At the Kapalua Shops, 115 Bay Dr. & 808/669-6286. www.sanseihawaii.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $19–$29. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–10pm.

3 South Maui To locate the following restaurants, see the map on p. 83.

KIHEI/MAALAEA There’s a Maui Tacos (p. 91) at Kamaole Beach Center in Kihei (& 808/879-5005). EXPENSIVE Buzz’s Wharf AMERICAN

Buzz’s is another formula restaurant that offers a superb view, substantial sandwiches, meaty french fries, and surf-and-turf fare—in a word, satisfying but not sensational. Still, this bright, airy dining room is a fine way station for whalewatching over a cold beer and a fresh mahimahi sandwich with fries. Some diners opt for several appetizers (stuffed mushrooms, steamer clams, clam chowder, onion soup) and a salad, then splurge on dessert. Buzz’s prize-winning Tahitian Baked Papaya is a warm, fragrant melding of fresh papaya with vanilla and coconut—the pride of the house. Maalaea Harbor, 50 Hauoli St. & 808/244-5426. Reservations recommended. Main courses $20–$33. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm.

PACIFIC RIM This is the best lunch spot in Kihei—open-air, with tables a few feet from the beach and up-closeand-personal views of Kahoolawe and Molokini. You’ll have to walk through a nondescript parking area and the modest entrance of the Mana Kai Resort to reach this unpretentious place. At lunch, salads, sandwiches, and pasta are the hot items: Kula greens; burgers; sandwiches on homemade focaccia; capellini with shiitake mushrooms,

Five Palms

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sun-dried tomatoes, and white wine sauce; and other appealing choices, including a perfectly grilled vegetable platter. At dinner, with the torches lit on the beach and the main dining room open, the ambience shifts to evening romantic, but still casual. In the Mana Kai Resort, 2960 S. Kihei Rd. & 808/879-2607. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses $19–$49. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 8am–2:30pm and 5–9pm.

SEAFOOD The family owned Waterfront has won many prestigious awards for wine excellence, service, and seafood, but its biggest boost is word of mouth. Loyal diners rave about the friendly staff and seafood, fresh off the boat in nearby Maalaea Harbor and prepared with care. The bay and harbor view is one you’ll never forget, especially at sunset. You have nine choices of preparations for the several varieties of fresh Hawaiian fish, ranging from en papillote (baked in buttered parchment) to Southwestern (smoked chile and cilantro butter) to Cajun spiced and Island style (sautéed, broiled, poached, or baked and paired with tiger prawns). Other choices include Kula onion soup, an excellent Caesar salad, the signature lobster chowder, and grilled eggplant layered with Maui onions, tomatoes, and spinach, served with redpepper coulis and Big Island goat cheese. Like the seafood, it’s superb.

The Waterfront at Maalaea

Maalaea Harbor, 50 Hauoli St. & 808/244-9028. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$35. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Opens daily at 5pm; last seating at 8:30pm.

M O D E R AT E Stella Blues Cafe AMERICAN

Stella Blues gets going at breakfast and continues through to dinner with something for everyone—vegetarians, kids, pasta and sandwich lovers, hefty steak eaters, and sensible diners who go for the inexpensive fresh Kula green salad. Grateful Dead posters line the walls, and a covey of gleaming motorcycles is invariably parked outside. It’s loud and lively, irreverent, and unpretentious. Sandwiches are the highlight, ranging from Tofu Extraordinaire to Mom’s Egg Salad on croissant to garden burgers and grilled chicken. Tofu wraps and mountainsize Cobb salads are popular, and for the reckless, large coffee shakes with mounds of whipped cream. Daily specials include fresh seafood and other surprises—all home-style cooking, made from scratch, down to the pesto mayonnaise and herb bread. At dinner, selections are geared toward good-value family dining, from affordable full dinners to pastas and burgers.

In Long’s Center, 1215 S. Kihei Rd. DISC, MC, V. Daily 8am–9pm.

& 808/874-3779. Main courses $9.95–$18.

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INEXPENSIVE Bubba’s Burgers BURGERS

On the heels of his remarkable success on Kauai, Bubba has sprouted in South Maui. Half-pound Big Bubbas, Budweiser chili, and Hubba Bubbas (with rice, hot dogs, and chili) are among the heroic offerings fueling the beachgoing crowd from this roadside cafe in Kihei. Fish and chips, tempeh burgers, and fresh fish specials are among the offerings of this house of Bubba, where plate lunches, burgers, and attitude aplenty provide good grinds with irreverent entertainment. (Bubba T-shirts are hilarious.) 1945 S. Kihei Rd. & 808/891-2600. www.bubbaburger.com. Burgers $2.75–$6.75. MC, V. Daily 10:30am–9pm.

The Coffee Store COFFEEHOUSE This simple, classic coffeehouse for caffeine connoisseurs serves 2 dozen different types of coffee and coffee drinks, from mochas and lattes to cappuccinos, espressos, and toddies. Breakfast items include smoothies, lox and bagels, quiches, granola, and assorted pastries. Pizza, salads, vegetarian lasagna, veggie-and-shrimp quesadillas, and sandwiches (garden burger, tuna, turkey, ham, grilled veggie panini) also move briskly from the take-out counter. The turkey-and-veggie wraps are a local legend. There are only a few small tables and they fill up fast, often with musicians and artists who’ve spent the previous evening entertaining at the Wailea and Kihei resorts. In Azeka Place II, 1279 Kihei Rd. & 808/875-4244. www.mauicoffee.com. All items less than $8.50. AE, MC, V. Daily 6am–6pm.

Peggy Sue’s Kids AMERICAN Just for a moment, forget that diet and take a leap. It’s Peggy Sue’s to the rescue! This 1950s-style diner has oodles of charm and is a swell place to spring for the best chocolate malt on the island. You’ll also find sodas, shakes, floats, egg creams, milkshakes, and 14 flavors of made-on-Maui Roselani brand gourmet ice cream. Old-fashioned soda-shop stools, an Elvis Presley Boulevard sign, and jukeboxes on every Formica table serve as a backdrop for the famous burgers (and garden burgers), brushed with teriyaki sauce and served with all the goodies. The fries are great, too. In Azeka Place II, 1279 S. Kihei Rd. & 808/875-8944. Burgers $6–$11; plate lunches $5–$12. DC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

Shaka Sandwich & Pizza PIZZA How many “best pizzas” are there on Maui? It depends on which shore you’re on, the west or the south. At this south-shore old-timer, award-winning pizzas share the

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limelight with New York–style heroes and Philly cheese steaks, calzones, salads, homemade garlic bread, and homemade meatball sandwiches. Shaka uses fresh Maui produce, long-simmering sauces, and homemade Italian bread. Choose thin or Sicilian thick crust with gourmet toppings: Maui onions, spinach, anchovies, jalapeños, and a spate of other vegetables. Don’t be misled by the whiteness of the white pizza; with the perfectly balanced flavors of olive oil, garlic, and cheese, you won’t even miss the tomato sauce. Clam-andgarlic pizza, spinach pizza (with olive oil, spinach, garlic, and mozzarella), and the Shaka Supreme (with at least 10 toppings!) will satisfy even the insatiable. 1295 S. Kihei Rd. & 808/874-0331. Sandwiches $4.35–$11; pizzas $13–$26. No credit cards. Daily 10:30am–9pm.

WAILEA The Shops at Wailea, a sprawling location between the Grand Wailea Hotel and Outrigger Wailea Resort, has added a spate of new shops and restaurants to this stretch of south Maui. Ruth’s Chris Steak House is here, as well as Tommy Bahama’s Tropical Cafe & Emporium, Honolulu Coffee Company, Cheeseburger, Mai Tai’s and Rock-n-Roll, and Longhi’s. Next door at the Outrigger Wailea, Hula Moons, the retro-Hawaiian-themed restaurant, has reopened after a $3 million renovation and moved to the upper level of the lobby building, where it serves midpriced steak and seafood with an ocean view. VERY EXPENSIVE Spago HAWAIIAN/CALIFORNIA/PACIFIC REGIONAL

California meets Hawaii in this open air, contemporary-designed eatery featuring fresh, local Hawaii ingredients prepared under the culinary watch of master chef Wolfgang Puck. The room, formerly Seasons Dining Room, has been stunningly transformed into a sleek modern layout using stone and wood in the open-air setting overlooking the Pacific Ocean. The menu features traditional Hawaiian dishes with Puck’s own brand of cutting-edge innovations. The unbelievable coconut soup with local lobster, keffir, chile, and galangal makes a great starter. For entrees, try the whole steamed fish served with chili, ginger, and baby choy sum; the incredible Kona lobster with sweet-and-sour banana curry, coconut rice, and dry-fried green beans; or the grilled côte de bouef with braised celery, armagnac, peppercorns, and pommes aligot. The wine and beverage list is well thought out and extensive. Save room for dessert (don’t pass up the warm guanaja chocolate tart with Tahitian vanilla

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bean ice cream). Make reservations as soon as you land on the island, if not before—this place is popular. Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 96753. & 808/ 879-2999. www.wolfgangpuck.com. Reservations required. Dinners average $75 per person. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–9pm; bar with pupu daily 5–11pm.

EXPENSIVE Joe’s Bar & Grill

AMERICAN GRILL The 360 degree view spans the golf course, tennis courts, ocean, and Haleakala—a worthy setting for Beverly Gannon’s style of American home cooking with a regional twist. The hearty staples include excellent mashed potatoes, lobster, fresh fish, and filet mignon, but the meat loaf (a whole loaf, like Mom used to make) seems to upstage them all. The Tuscan white bean soup is superb, and the tenderloin, with roasted portobellos, mashed potatoes with whole garlic, and a pinot noir demiglace, is American home cooking at its best. Daily specials could be grilled ahi with white truffle–Yukon mashed potatoes or sautéed mahimahi with shrimp bisque and sautéed spinach. If chocolate cake is on the menu, you should definitely spring for it. In the Wailea Tennis Club, 131 Wailea Ike Place. & 808/875-7767. www. joesbarandgrill.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $17–$30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–9pm.

Longhi’s ITALIAN This is a great alternative to the highpriced restaurants in the surrounding resorts. The open-air restaurants, with restaurateur Bob Longhi’s trademark black and white checkered floor, provide a great way to start the day. Breakfasts here are something you want to wake up to: perfect baguettes, fresh baked cinnamon rolls (one is enough for two people), and eggs Benedict or Florentine (with hollandaise for those not counting calories). Lunch is either an Italian banquet (ahi torino prawns amaretto and a wide variety of pastas) or fresh salads and sandwiches. Dinner (overlooking the water) is where Longhi shines, with a long list of fresh-made pasta dishes, seafood platters, and beef and chicken dishes (like filet mignon with béarnaise or veal sauté). Leave room for the daily dessert specials. Unlike Longhi’s restaurant in Lahaina, this is not a verbal menu recited by your waitperson, but a real menu that you can hold and study as you plan your culinary adventure. If you come on Saturday night, stay for the live music; the place rocks until 1:30am. The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea & 808/891-8883. www. longhi-maui.com. Reservations for dinner recommended. Main courses $18–$30. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 8am–10pm; Sat 7:30am–1:30am; Sun 7:30am–10pm.

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Nick’s Fishmarket Maui SEAFOOD Hawaii’s newest Nick’s has the perfect balance of visual sizzle and memorable food. A private room with attractive murals seats 50, and the round bar, where you can sit facing the ocean, is highlighted with minimalist dangling amber lights, one of the friendliest touches in Wailea. Stephanotis vines create shade on the terrace, and the sunset views are superb. This is a classic seafood restaurant that sticks to the tried and true (not an overwrought menu) but stays fresh with excellent ingredients and a high degree of professionalism in service and preparation. The Greek Maui Wowie salad gets my vote as one of the top salads in Hawaii. The opakapaka has been a Nick’s signature for eons; other choices include fresh salmon, scallops, Hawaiian lobster tails, and chicken, beef, and lamb dishes. I love the onion vichyssoise with taro swirl and a hint of tobiko (flying-fish roe), and the bow-tied servers bearing almond-scented cold towels. In the Fairmont Kea Lani Hotel, 4100 Wailea Alanui. & 808/879-7224. www. tri-star-restaurants.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $25–$50. Prix fixe dinners $55–$85. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10:30pm, bar until 11pm.

M O D E R AT E Caffe Ciao ITALIAN

There are two parts to this charming trattoria: the deli and take-out section, and the tables under the trees, next to the bar. Rare and wonderful wines, such as Vine Cliff, are sold in the deli, along with ultraluxe rose soaps and other bath products, assorted pastas, pizzas, roasted potatoes, vegetable panini, vegetable lasagna, abundant salads, and an appealing selection of microwavable and take-out goodies. On the terrace under the trees, the tables are cheerfully accented with Italian herbs growing in cachepots. A fave: the linguine pomodoro, with fresh tomatoes, spinach-tomato sauce, and a dollop of mascarpone. In the Kea Lani Hotel, 4100 Wailea Alanui. & 808/875-4100. Reservations recommended. Main courses lunch $14–$20, dinner $16–$38; pizzas $15–$23. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm, bar until 10pm.

ISLAND CUISINE Under the same ownership as Kapalua’s Plantation House Restaurant (p. 92), SeaWatch is a good choice from morning to evening, and it’s one of the more affordable stops in tony Wailea. You’ll dine on the terrace or in a high-ceilinged room, on a menu that carries the tee-off-to-19th-hole crowd with ease. From breakfast on, it’s a celebration of island bounty, from the Maui onions on the bagels and lox to kalua pork and Maui onions

SeaWatch

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in the scrambled eggs. We also like the crab cake Benedict with roasted pepper hollandaise. Lunchtime sandwiches, pastas, salads, wraps, and soups are moderately priced, and you get 360 degree views to go with them. The cashew chicken wrap with mango chutney is a winner, but if that’s too Pan-Asian for you, try the tropical fish quesadilla or the grilled fresh-catch sandwich with Kula lime aioli. Save room for the bananas Foster. 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr. & 808/875-8080. www.seawatchrestaurant.com. Reservations required for dinner. Breakfast $3–$10; lunch $6.50–$12; dinner main courses $23–$28. AE, MC, V. Daily 8am–10pm.

MAKENA CONTEMPORARY ISLAND Half of the Sunday brunch experience here is the head-turning view of Makena Beach, Molokini islet, and Kahoolawe island. The other half is the fabled Sunday buffet, bountiful and sumptuous, spread over several tables: pasta, omelets, cheeses, pastries, sashimi, crab legs, smoked salmon, fresh Maui produce, and a smashing array of ethnic and continental foods. The dinner menu changes regularly; recent winners are the steamed Manila Clams Scampi with roasted garlic, diced tomatoes, and fried basil; Dungeness crab and goat cheese won ton with Maui onion guacamole; and the Prince Court Sampler with Kona lobster cakes, kalua duck lumpia, and sugar-canespeared grilled prawns. Game entrees (venison, rack of lamb, breast of duck) come in highly acclaimed preparations, such as poha (gooseberry) compote and black cherry Cabernet sauce.

Prince Court

In the Maui Prince Hotel, 5400 Makena Alanui. & 808/874-1111. Reservations recommended. Main courses $17–$30; Fri prime rib and seafood buffet $38 ($23 child); Sun brunch $36. AE, MC, V. Sun 9am–1pm; daily 6–9:30pm.

4 Upcountry Maui HALIIMAILE (ON THE WAY TO UPCOUNTRY MAUI) Kids AMERICAN Haliimaile General Store More than a decade later, Bev Gannon, one of the 12 original Hawaii Regional Cuisine chefs, is still going strong at her foodie haven in the pineapple fields. You’ll dine at tables set on old wood floors under high ceilings (sound ricochets fiercely here), in a peach-colored room emblazoned with works by local artists. The food, a blend of eclectic American with ethnic touches, puts an innovative spin on Hawaii Regional Cuisine. Even the fresh-catch sandwich on the lunch menu is anything but prosaic. The sashimi napoleon and the

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house salad—island greens with mandarin oranges, onions, toasted walnuts, and blue-cheese crumble—are notable items on a menu that bridges Hawaii with Gannon’s Texas roots. Haliimaile Rd., Haliimaile. & 808/572-2666. www.haliimailegeneralstore.com. Reservations recommended. Lunch $7–$14; dinner $14–$28. DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–2:30pm; daily 5:30–9:30pm.

MAKAWAO & PUKALANI AMERICAN/ISLAND Dana Pastula managed restaurants at Lanai’s Manele Bay Hotel and the Four Seasons Resort Wailea before opening her tiny, charming outdoor cafe in this sunlit sliver of Makawao. And the alfresco dining is just part of it: From the sandwiches (roast chicken breast, turkey breast, prosciutto) and salads to the soup of the day, the offerings are homemade and excellent. The chic Makawao shopkeepers who lunch here never tire of the quinoa salad, the ginger chicken soup, the roasted-beet-andpotato soup, the curry chicken salad, and the talk of the town—a towering Asian salad of Oriental vegetables, tofu, and baby greens, tossed in a sesame vinaigrette with fresh mint, ginger, and lemongrass, and served over Chinese noodles. Our favorite? The shiitake mushroom soup with chicken long rice and the snow crab–avocado sandwich—too good to be true.

Cafe O ’Lei

In the Paniolo Courtyard, 3673 Baldwin Ave. & 808/573-9065. Sandwiches and salads $4.95–$6.95. No credit cards. Mon–Sat 11am–4pm.

Casanova Italian Restaurant ITALIAN The nexus of upcountry dining and nightlife, Casanova is Makawao’s citadel of hip. It’s casual, too, with terrific food and music and a tiny veranda with a few stools, always full, in front of a deli at Makawao’s busiest intersection. The restaurant contains a stage, dance floor, restaurant, and bar—and food to love and remember. This is pasta heaven; try the spaghetti fradiavolo or the spinach gnocchi in a fresh tomatoGorgonzola sauce. Other choices include a huge pizza selection, grilled lamb chops in an Italian mushroom marinade, every possible type of pasta, and luscious desserts. Our personal picks on a stellar menu: fresh Kula spinach sautéed with butter, pine nuts, and Parmesan; polenta with radicchio (the mushrooms and cream sauce are fabulous!); and tiramisu, the best on the island. 1188 Makawao Ave. & 808/572-0220. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses $10–$24; 12-in. pizzas from $10. DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–9pm; Sun 5:30–9pm; dancing Wed–Sat 9:45pm–1am. Lounge daily 5:30pm–12:30am or 1am; deli daily 8am–6:30pm.

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Cow Country Cafe AMERICAN/LOCAL Pukalani’s inexpensive, casual, and very popular cafe features cows everywhere—on the walls, chairs, menus, aprons, even the exterior. But the real draw is the simple, home-cooked comfort food, such as meat loaf, roast pork, and humongous hamburgers, plus home-baked bread, ovenfresh muffins, and local faves such as saimin and Chinese chicken salad. Soups (homemade cream of mushroom), salads, and shrimp scampi with bow-tie pasta are among the cafe’s other pleasures. The signature dessert is the cow pie, a naughty pile of chocolate cream cheese with macadamia nuts in a cookie crust, shaped like youknow-what. In the Andrade Building, 7–2 Aewa Place (just off Haleakala Hwy.), Pukalani. & 808/572-2395. Lunch $5.95–$8.95; most dinner items less than $15. MC, V. Mon–Sat 7am–3pm and 5:30–9pm; Sun 7am–1pm.

KULA (AT THE BASE OF HALEAKALA NATIONAL PARK) EXPENSIVE Kula Lodge HAWAII REGIONAL/AMERICAN Don’t let the

dinner prices scare you; the Kula Lodge is equally enjoyable, if not more so, at breakfast and lunch, when the prices are lower and the views through the picture windows have an eye-popping intensity. The million-dollar vista spans the flanks of Haleakala, rolling 3,200 feet down to central Maui, the ocean, and the West Maui Mountains. The Kula Lodge has always been known for its breakfasts: fabulous eggs Benedict, including a vegetarian version with Kula onions, shiitake mushrooms, and scallions; legendary banana–macadamia nut pancakes; and a highly recommended tofu scramble with green onions, Kula vegetables, and garlic chives. If possible, go for sunset cocktails and watch the colors change into deep end-of-day hues. When darkness descends, a roaring fire and lodge atmosphere add to the coziness of the room. The dinner menu features “small plates” of Thai summer rolls, seared ahi, and other starters. Sesame-seared ono, Cuban-style spicy swordfish with rum-soaked bananas, and miso salmon with wild mushrooms are seafood attractions, but there’s also pasta, rack of lamb, filet mignon, and free-range chicken breast. Haleakala Hwy. (Hwy. 377). & 808/878-2517. Reservations recommended for dinner. Breakfast $7.50–$18; lunch $11–$18; dinner main courses $14–$28. AE, MC, V. Daily 6:30am–9pm.

INEXPENSIVE Cafe 808 AMERICAN/LOCAL

Despite its out-of-the-way location (or perhaps because of it), Cafe 808 has become the universal

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favorite among upcountry residents of all ages. The breakfast coffee group, the lunchtime crowd, kids after school, and dinner regulars all know it’s the place for tasty home-style cooking with no pretensions: chicken lasagna, smoked-salmon omelet, famous burgers (teriyaki, hamburger, cheeseburger, garden burger, mahimahi, and taro), roast pork, smoked turkey, and a huge selection of local-style specials. Regulars rave about the chicken katsu, saimin, and beef stew. The few tables are sprinkled around a room with linoleum-tile floors, hardwood benches, plastic patio chairs, and old-fashioned booths—rough around the edges in a pleasing way, and very camp. Lower Kula Rd., past Holy Ghost Church, across from Morihara Store. & 808/ 878-6874. Burgers from $3.50; main courses $4.50–$9.95. No credit cards. Daily 6am–8pm.

Grandma’s Coffee House COFFEEHOUSE/AMERICAN Alfred Franco’s grandmother started what is now a five-generation coffee business back in 1918, when she was 16 years old. Today, this tiny wooden coffeehouse, still fueled by homegrown Haleakala coffee beans, is the quintessential roadside oasis. Grandma’s offers espresso, hot and cold coffees, home-baked pastries, inexpensive pasta, sandwiches (including sensational avocado and garden burgers), homemade soups, fresh juices, and local plate-lunch specials that change daily. Rotating specials include Hawaiian beef stew, ginger chicken, saimin, chicken curry, lentil soup, and sandwiches piled high with Kula vegetables. While the coffee is legendary, we think the real standouts are the lemon squares and the pumpkin bread. At the end of Hwy. 37, Keokea (about 6 miles before the Tedeschi Vineyards in Ulupalakua). & 808/878-2140. Most items less than $8.95. MC, V. Daily 7am–5pm.

Kula Sandalwoods Restaurant AMERICAN Chef Eleanor Loui, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, makes hollandaise sauce every morning from fresh upcountry egg yolks, sweet butter, and Myers lemons, which her family grows in the yard above the restaurant. This is Kula cuisine, with produce from the backyard and everything made from scratch, including French toast with home-baked Portuguese sweet bread; hotcakes or Belgian waffles with fresh fruit; baguettes; open-faced country omelets; hamburgers drenched in a special cheese sauce made with grated sharp cheddar; and an outstanding veggie burger. The grilled chicken breast sandwich is marvelous, served with soup of the day and Kula mixed greens. Dine in the gazebo or on the terrace, with dazzling views in all directions, including, in the spring, a yard dusted with lavender

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jacaranda flowers and a hillside ablaze with fields of orange akulikuli blossoms. 15427 Haleakala Hwy. (Hwy. 377). & 808/878-3523. Breakfast $6.95–$9.75; lunch $7.25–$13; Sun brunch $6.95–$9.75. MC, V. Mon–Sat 6:30am–2pm; Sun brunch 6:30am–noon.

5 East Maui: On the Road to Hana PAIA M O D E R AT E Moanai Bakery & Cafe

LOCAL/EUROPEAN Moanai gets high marks for its stylish concrete floors, high ceilings, booths and cafe tables, and fabulous food. Don Ritchey, formerly a chef at Haliimaile General Store, has created the perfect Paia eatery, a casual bakery-cafe that highlights his stellar skills. All the bases are covered: saimin, omelets, wraps, pancakes, and fresh-baked goods in the morning; soups, sandwiches, pasta, and satisfying salads for lunch; and for dinner, varied selections with Asian and European influences and fresh island ingredients. The lemongrass-grilled prawns with green papaya salad are an explosion of flavors and textures, the roasted vegetable napoleon is gourmet fare, and the Thai red curry with coconut milk, served over vegetables, seafood, or tofu, comes atop jasmine rice with crisp rice noodles and fresh sprouts to cool the fire. Ritchey’s Thai-style curries are richly spiced and intense. We also vouch for his special gift with fish: The nori-sesame crusted opakapaka, with wasabi beurre blanc, is cooked, like the curry, to perfection. 71 Baldwin Ave. & 808/579-9999. Reservations recommended for dinner. Breakfast $4.60–$9.95; lunch $5.95–$9.95; dinner main courses $7.95–$24. MC, V. Daily 8am–9pm.

INEXPENSIVE Cafe des Amis CREPES/SALADS This Paia newcomer quickly

became known as the place for healthy and tasty lunches that are kind to the pocketbook. Crepes are the star here, and they are popular: spinach with feta cheese; scallops with garlic and chipotle chili; shrimp curry with coconut milk; and dozens more choices, including breakfast crepes and dessert crepes (like banana/chocolate, strawberries and cream, or caramelized apples with rum). Equally popular are the salads (including niçoise, Greek, and Caesar) and smoothies (like peach/banana/raspberry and mango/banana/pineapple). The crepes come with a house salad, and at $5.90 to $7.50, that’s a deal. 42 Baldwin Ave. & 808/579-6323. Crepes $5.90–$7.50. DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 8:30am–8:30pm.

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SOUTHWESTERN/SEAFOOD Milagros has gained a following with its great home-style cooking, upbeat atmosphere, and highly touted margaritas. Sit outdoors and watch the parade of Willie Nelson look-alikes ambling by as you tuck into the ahi creation of the evening, a combination of Southwestern and Pacific Rim styles and flavors accompanied by fresh veggies and Kula greens. Blackened ahi taquitos, pepper-crusted ono pasta, blue shrimp tostadas, and sandwiches, salads, and combination plates are some of the offerings here. For breakfast, the Olive Oyl spinach omelet or the huevos rancheros, served with home fries, is recommended. We love Paia’s tie-dyes, beads, and hippie flavor, and this is the front-row seat for it all. Watch for happy hour, with its cheap and fabulous margaritas.

Milagros Food Company

Hana Hwy. and Baldwin Ave., Paia. & 808/579-8755. Breakfast around $7; lunch $6–$10; dinner $15–$20. DC, MC, V. Daily 8am–11pm.

Paia Fish Market SEAFOOD This really is a fish market, with fresh fish to take home and cooked seafood, salads, pastas, fajitas, and quesadillas to take out or enjoy at the few picnic tables inside the restaurant. It’s an appealing and budget-friendly selection: Cajun-style fresh catch, fresh-fish specials (usually ahi or salmon), fresh-fish tacos and quesadillas, and seafood and chicken pastas. You can also order hamburgers, cheeseburgers, fish and chips (or shrimp and chips), and wonderful lunch and dinner plates, cheap and tasty. Peppering the walls are photos of the number one sport here, windsurfing. 110 Hana Hwy. & 808/579-8030. Lunch and dinner plates $6.95–$20. DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–9:30pm.

Pic-nics SANDWICHES/PICNIC LUNCHES

Breakfast is terrific here—omelets, eggs made to order, Maui Portuguese sausage, Hawaiian pancakes—and so is lunch. Pic-nics is famous for many things, among them the spinach-nut burger, an ingenious vegetarian blend topped with vegetables and cheddar cheese. Stop here to refresh yourself with a plate lunch or smoothie for the drive to Hana or upcountry Maui. The gourmet sandwiches (Kula vegetables, home-baked breast of turkey, Cajun chicken, Cajun fish) are worthy of the most idyllic picnic spot. The rosemary herb-roasted chicken can be ordered as a plate lunch or as part of the Hana Bay picnic, which includes sandwiches, meats, Maui-style potato chips, and home-baked cookies and muffins. You can order old-fashioned fish and chips, too, or shrimp and chips. Fresh breads and pastries add

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to the appeal, and several coffee drinks made with Maui-blend coffee may give you the jolt you need for the drive ahead. 30 Baldwin Ave. 7am–5pm.

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808/579-8021. Most items less than $6.95. MC, V. Daily

The Vegan GOURMET VEGETARIAN/VEGAN Wholesome foods with ingenious soy substitutes and satisfying flavors appear on a menu that dares you to feel healthy without feeling deprived. Pad Thai noodles are the best-selling item, cooked in a creamy coconut sauce and generously seasoned with garlic and spices. Curries, grilled polenta, pepper steak made of seitan (a meat substitute), and organic hummus are among the items that draw vegetarians from around the island. Proving that desserts are justly deserved, Vegan offers a carob cake and coconut milk–flavored tapioca pudding that hint of Thailand yet are dairy-free. 115 Baldwin Ave. 11am–9pm.

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808/579-9144. Main courses $7.95–$9.95. MC, V. Daily

ELSEWHERE ON THE ROAD TO HANA The restaurant’s entrance, a cove with windsurfers, tide pools, white sand, and a canoe resting under palm trees, is a South Seas fantasy worthy of Gauguin. The interior features curved lauhala-lined ceilings, walls of split bamboo, lavish arrangements of tropical blooms, and picture windows to let in the view. With servers wearing Polynesian prints and flowers behind their ears, and the sun setting in Kuau Cove, Mama’s mood is hard to beat. The fish is fresh (the fishermen are even credited by name on the menu) and prepared Hawaiian style, with tropical fruit or baked in a macadamia nut and vanilla bean crust, or in a number of preparations involving ferns, seaweed, Maui onions and roasted kukui nut. Menu items include mahimahi laulau with luau leaves (taro greens) and Maui onions, baked in ti leaves and served with kalua pig and Hanalei poi—the best. Deepwater ahi could be seared with coconut and lime, while ono “caught by Keith Nakamura along the 40-fathom ledge near Hana” comes in Hana ginger teriyaki with macadamia nuts and crisp Maui onion. Other special touches include the use of Molokai sweet potato, Hana breadfruit, organic lettuces, Haiku bananas, and fresh coconut, which evoke the mood and tastes of old Hawaii.

Mama’s Fish House

799 Poho Place, just off the Hana Hwy., Kuau. & 808/579-8488. Reservations recommended for lunch, required for dinner. Main courses $29–$59. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–3pm; light menu 3–4:45pm; and 4:45–9pm last seating.

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Nahiku Coffee Shop, Smoked Fish Stand, and Ti Gallery

What a delight to stumble across this Finds SMOKED KABOBS trio of comforts on the long drive to Hana! The small coffee shop purveys locally made baked goods, several flavors of Maui-grown coffee, banana breads, organic tropical fruit smoothies, and the Original and Best Coconut Candy made by Hana character Jungle Johnny. Next door, the Ti Gallery sells locally made Hawaiian arts and crafts, such as pottery and koa wood vessels. The barbecue smoker is our favorite part of the operation. It puts out superb smoked and grilled fish, fresh and locally caught. These are not jerky-like smoked meats; the process keeps the kabobs moist while retaining the smoke flavor. The teriyaki-based marinade, made by the owner, adds a special touch to the fish (ono, ahi, marlin). One of the biggest sellers is the kalua pig sandwich. Also a hit are the fish, beef, and chicken tacos, served with about six condiments, including cheese, jalapeños, and salsa. There are a few roadside picnic tables, or you can take your lunch to go for a beachside picnic in Hana. Hana Hwy. (3⁄ 4 mile past mile marker 28). No phone. Kabobs $3 each. No credit cards. Coffee shop daily 9am–5:30pm; fish stand Fri–Wed 10am–5pm; gallery daily 10am–5pm.

Pauwela Cafe It’s easy to get lost Finds INTERNATIONAL while searching out this wonderful cafe, but it’s such a find. This tiny cafe has a strong local following for many reasons. Becky Speere, a gifted chef, and her husband, Chris, a former food-service instructor at Maui Community College and a former sous chef at the Maui Prince Hotel, infuse every sandwich, salad, and muffin with finesse. All breads are prepared in-house, including rosemary potato, Scottish country, French baguette, and green onion and cheese. The scene-stealing kalua turkey sandwich features moist, smoky shredded turkey, served with cheese on home-baked French bread and covered with a green-chili and cilantro sauce. For breakfast, eggs chilaquile are a good starter, with layers of corn tortillas, pinto beans, chilis, cheese, and herbs, topped with egg custard and served hot with salsa and sour cream. The cafe is 1.4 miles past the Haiku turnoff and a half-mile up on the left. 375 W. Kuiaha Rd., off Hana Hwy., past Haiku Rd., Haiku. & 808/575-9242. Most items less than $6.50. No credit cards. Mon–Sat 7am–3pm; Sun 8am–2pm.

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HANA Hana Ranch Restaurant Overrated AMERICAN Part of the Hotel Hana-Maui operation, the Hana Ranch Restaurant is the informal alternative to the hotel’s dining room. Dinner choices include New York steak, prawns and pasta, and Pacific Rim options like spicy shrimp won tons or the predictable fresh-fish poke. Affordable luncheon buffets include baked mahimahi, pita sandwiches, chicken stir-fry, cheeseburgers, and club and fresh-catch sandwiches. It’s not an inspired menu, and the service can be practically nonexistent during lunch rush. Hana Hwy. & 808/248-8255. Reservations required Fri–Sat. Main courses $18–$33. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7–10am and 11am–2pm; Fri–Sat 6–8pm. Takeout counter daily 6–10am and 11am–4pm.

5 Fun in the Surf & Sun T

his is why you’ve come to Maui—the sun, the sand, and the surf. In this chapter, we’ll tell you about the best beaches, from where to soak up the rays to where to plunge beneath the waves for a fish’seye view of the underwater world. We’ve covered a range of ocean activities on Maui, as well as our favorite places and outfitters for these marine adventures. Also in this chapter are things to do on dry land, including the best spots for hiking and the greatest golf courses.

1 Beaches Hawaii’s beaches belong to the people. All beaches are public property, and Hawaii state law requires all resorts and hotels to offer public right-of-way access (across their private property) to the beach, along with public parking. For beach toys and equipment, contact the Activity Warehouse (& 800/343-2087; www.travelhawaii. com), which has branches in Lahaina at 578 Front St., near Prison Street (& 808/667-4000), and in Kihei at Azeka Place II, on the mountain side of Kihei Road near Lipoa Street (& 808/875-4000). Beach chairs rent for $2 a day, coolers (with ice) for $2 a day, and a host of toys (Frisbees, volleyballs, and more) for $1 a day.

WEST MAUI K A A N A PA L I B E A C H

Four-mile-long Kaanapali is one of Maui’s best beaches, with grainy gold sand as far as the eye can see. A paved beach walk links hotels and condos, open-air restaurants, and Whalers Village shopping center. Because Kaanapali is so long, the beach is crowded only in pockets—there’s plenty of room to find seclusion. Summertime swimming is excellent. Facilities include outdoor showers; you can use the restrooms at the hotel pools. Beach-activity vendors line up in front of the hotels, offering various water activities and equipment. There’s fabulous snorkeling around Black Rock, in front of the Sheraton.

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Parking is a problem, though. There are two public entrances: At the south end, turn off Honoapiilani Highway into the Kaanapali Resort, and pay for parking there, or continue on Honoapiilani Highway, turn off at the last Kaanapali exit at the stoplight near the Maui Kaanapali Villas, and park next to the beach signs indicating public access (this is limited to only a few cars, so to save time you might want to just head to the Sheraton or Whalers Village and plunk down your money). K A PA L U A B E A C H

The beach cove that fronts the Kapalua Bay Hotel is the stuff of dreams: a golden crescent bordered by two palm-studded points, with crystal-clear water and a gently-sloping sandy bottom. Kapalua’s calm waters are great for snorkelers and swimmers of all ages and abilities, and the bay is big enough to paddle a kayak around without getting into the more challenging channel that separates Maui from Molokai. Waves come in just right for riding. The beach is accessible from the hotel on one end, which provides sun chairs with shades and a beach-activities center for its guests, and a public access way on the other. The inland side is edged by a shady path and cool lawns. Outdoor showers are stationed at both ends. You’ll also find restrooms, lifeguards, a rental shack, and plenty of shade. Parking is limited to about 30 spaces in a small lot off Lower Honoapiilani Road, by Napili Kai Beach Club, so arrive early; next door is a nice but somewhat pricey oceanfront restaurant, Kapalua’s Bay Club.

SOUTH MAUI K A M A O L E I I I B E A C H PA R K

Three beach parks—Kamaole I, II, and III—stand like golden jewels in the front yard of the funky seaside town of Kihei. All three are popular with local residents and visitors because they’re easily accessible. On weekends they’re jam-packed with fishermen, picnickers, swimmers, and snorkelers. The most popular is Kamaole III, or “Kam-3,” as locals say. Swimming is safe here, but scattered lava rocks are toe stubbers at the water line, and parents should watch to make sure that kids don’t venture too far out, because the bottom slopes off quickly. Both the north and south shores are rocky fingers with a surge big enough to attract fish and snorkelers, and the winter waves attract bodysurfers. Kam-3 is also a wonderful place to watch the sunset.

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Facilities include restrooms, showers, picnic tables, barbecue grills, and lifeguards. There’s also plenty of parking on South Kihei Road, across from the Maui Parkshore condos. WAILEA BEACH

Wailea is the best golden-sand crescent on Maui’s sunbaked southwestern coast. One of five beaches within Wailea Resort, Wailea is big, wide, and protected on both sides by black lava points. It’s the front yard of the Four Seasons Wailea and the Grand Wailea Resort Hotel and Spa. From the beach, the view out to sea is magnificent, framed by neighboring Kahoolawe and Lanai and the tiny crescent of Molokini, probably the most popular snorkel spot in these parts. The clear waters tumble to shore in waves just the right size for gentle riding, with or without a board. From shore, you can see Pacific humpback whales in season (Dec–Apr), and unreal sunsets. Facilities include restrooms, outdoor showers, and limited free parking at the blue SHORELINE ACCESS sign, on Wailea Alanui Drive. ULUA BEACH

One of the most popular beaches in Wailea, Ulua is a long, wide, crescent-shaped gold-sand beach between two rocky points. When the ocean is calm, Ulua offers Wailea’s best snorkeling; when it’s rough, the waves are excellent for bodysurfers. The ocean bottom is shallow and gently slopes down to deeper waters, making swimming generally safe. In high season (late Dec–Mar and June–Aug), the beach is carpeted with beach towels. Facilities include showers and restrooms. A variety of equipment is available for rent at the nearby Wailea Ocean Activity Center. To find Ulua, look for the blue SHORELINE ACCESS sign on South Kihei Road, near Stouffer Wailea Beach Resort. A tiny parking lot is nearby. MALUAKA BEACH (MAKENA BEACH)

On the southern end of Maui’s resort coast, development falls off dramatically, leaving a wild, dry countryside of green kiawe trees. Near the Maui Prince hotel is Maluaka Beach, often called Makena, notable for its beauty and its views of Molokini Crater, the offshore islet, and Kahoolawe, the so-called “target” island. It’s a short, wide, palmfringed crescent of golden, grainy sand set between two black-lava points and bounded by big sand dunes topped by a grassy knoll. Swimming in this mostly calm bay is considered the best on Makena Bay. Facilities include restrooms, showers, a landscaped park, lifeguards, and roadside parking. Along Makena Alanui, look for the SHORELINE ACCESS sign near the hotel, turn right, and head down to the shore.

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ONELOA BEACH (BIG BEACH)

Oneloa, which means “long sand” in Hawaiian, is 3,300 feet long and more than 100 feet wide. Mauians, who call it Big Beach, come here to swim, fish, sunbathe, surf, and enjoy the view of Kahoolawe and Lanai. Snorkeling is good around the north end at the foot of Puu Olai, a 360-foot cinder cone. During storms, however, big waves lash the shore and a strong rip current sweeps the sharp dropoff, making swimming dangerous. There are no facilities except portable toilets, but there’s plenty of parking. To get here, drive past the Maui Prince Hotel to the second dirt road, which leads through a kiawe thicket to the beach. On the other side of Puu Olai is Little Beach, a small pocket beach where nudists work on their all-over tans, to the chagrin of uptight authorities who take a dim view of public nudity.

EAST MAUI H O O K I PA B E A C H PA R K

Two miles past Paia, on the Hana Highway, you’ll find one of the most famous windsurfing sites in the world. Due to its constant winds and endless waves, Hookipa attracts top windsurfers and wave jumpers from around the globe. Surfers and fishermen also enjoy this small, gold-sand beach at the foot of a grassy cliff. Except when international competitions are being held, weekdays are the best time to watch the daredevils fly over the waves. When the water is flat, snorkelers and divers explore the reef. Facilities include restrooms, showers, pavilions, picnic tables, barbecue grills, and a parking lot. W A I A N A PA N A PA S TAT E PA R K

Four miles before Hana, off the Hana Highway, is this beach park. The park’s 120 acres have 12 cabins (p. 77), a caretaker’s residence, a beach park, picnic tables, barbecue grills, restrooms, showers, a parking lot, a shoreline hiking trail, and a black-sand beach (it’s actually small black pebbles). This is a wonderful area for both shoreline hikes (mosquitoes are plentiful, so bring insect repellent) and picnicking. Swimming is generally unsafe due to powerful rip currents and strong waves breaking offshore, which roll into the beach unchecked. Waianapanapa is crowded on weekends with local residents and their families, as well as tourists; weekdays are generally a better bet. HAMOA BEACH

This half-moon–shaped, gray-sand beach (a mix of coral and lava) in a truly tropical setting is a favorite among sunbathers seeking rest and refuge. The Hotel Hana-Maui maintains the beach and acts as

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though it’s private, which it isn’t—so just march down the lava-rock steps and grab a spot on the sand. The 100-foot-wide beach is three football fields long and sits below 30-foot black-lava sea cliffs. An unprotected beach open to the ocean, Hamoa is often swept by powerful rip currents. Surf breaks offshore and rolls ashore, making this a popular surfing and bodysurfing area. The calm left side is best for snorkeling in summer. The hotel has numerous facilities for guests; there’s an outdoor shower and restrooms for nonguests. Parking is limited. Look for the Hamoa Beach turnoff from Hana Highway.

2 Watersports Activity Warehouse (& 800/343-2087; www.travelhawaii.com), which has branches in Lahaina at 578 Front St., near Prison Street (& 808/667-4000), and in Kihei at Azeka Place II, on the mountain side of Kihei Road near Lipoa Street (& 808/875-4000), rents everything from beach chairs and coolers to kayaks, Boogie Boards, and surfboards. Snorkel Bob’s (www.snorkelbob.com) has snorkel gear, boogie boards, and other ocean toys at three locations: 1217 Front St., Lahaina (& 808/661-4421); Napili Village, 5425-C Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., Napili (& 808/669-9603); and Kamaole Beach Center, 2411 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei (& 808/879-7449). All locations are open daily from 8am to 5pm.

BOATING & SAILING For information on snorkel cruises to Molokini, see “Snorkeling” on p. 114. For fishing charters, see “Sportfishing” on p. 117. For trips that combine snorkeling with whale-watching, see “Whale-Watching Cruises” on p. 119. America II This U.S. contender in the 1987 America’s Cup race is a true racing boat, a 65-foot sailing yacht offering 2-hour morning sails, afternoon sails, and sunset sails year-round, plus whale-watching in winter. These are sailing trips, so there’s no snorkeling—just the thrill of racing with the wind. Complimentary bottled water, soda, and chips are available. Lahaina Harbor, slip 5. & 888/667-2133 or 808/667-2195. www.galaxymall. com/stores/americaii. Trips $33 adults, $16 children under 13; whale-watching $30 adults, $15 children.

This 50-foot Santa Cruz sailboat offers 2-hour sailing adventures. Prices include snorkel gear, juice, fresh pineapple spears, Maui chips, beer, wine, and soda.

Scotch Mist Sailing Charters

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Lahaina Harbor, slip 2. & 808/661-0386. www.scotchmistsailingcharters.com. Sail trips $35 adults, $18 children 5–12; sunset sail $45.

OCEAN KAYAKING Ocean kayaking allows you to see Maui from the sea the way the early Hawaiians did. One of Maui’s best kayak routes is along the Kihei Coast, where there’s easy access to calm water. Early mornings are always best, because the wind comes up around 11am, making seas choppy and paddling difficult. The Activity Warehouse (& 800/343-2087; www.travel hawaii.com), which has branches in Lahaina at 578 Front St., near Prison Street (& 808/667-4000), and in Kihei at Azeka Place II, on the mountain side of Kihei Road near Lipoa Street (& 808/ 875-4000), rents one-person kayaks for $10 a day, and two-person kayaks for $15 a day. For the uninitiated, our favorite kayak-tour operator is Makena Kayak Tours (& 877/879-8426 or 808/879-8426; makena [email protected]). Professional guide Dino Ventura leads a 21⁄ 2-hour trip from Makena Landing. His wonderful tour will be a highlight of your vacation. It costs $55, including refreshments and snorkel and kayak equipment. South Pacific Kayaks, 2439 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei (& 800/7762326 or 808/875-4848; www.mauikayak.com), is Maui’s oldest kayak-tour company. Its expert guides lead trips that include lessons, a guided tour, and snorkeling. Tours run from 21⁄ 2 to 5 hours and range in price from $55 to $89. South Pacific also offers kayak rentals starting at $30 a day. In Hana, Hana-Maui Sea Sports (& 808/248-7711) runs 2hour tours of Hana’s coastline on wide, stable “no roll” kayaks for $118 per person.

SCUBA DIVING Some people come to Maui for the sole purpose of exploring its underwater world. You can see the great variety of tropical marine life (more than 100 endemic species), explore sea caves, and swim with sea turtles and monk seals in the clear tropical waters off the island. Trade winds often rough up the seas in the afternoon, so most dive operators schedule early morning dives that end at noon. Unsure about scuba diving? Take an introductory dive; most operators offer no-experience-necessary dives, ranging from $95 to $125. You can learn from this glimpse into the sea world whether diving is for you.

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Everyone dives Molokini, a marine-life park and one of Hawaii’s top dive spots. This crescent-shaped crater has three tiers of diving: a 35-foot plateau inside the crater basin (used by beginning divers and snorkelers), a wall sloping to 70 feet just beyond the inside plateau, and a sheer wall on the outside and backside of the crater that plunges 350 feet. This underwater park is very popular thanks to calm, clear, protected waters and an abundance of marine life. Ed Robinson’s Diving Adventures (& 800/635-1273 or 808/879-3584; www.mauiscuba.com) is the only Maui company rated one of Scuba Diver magazine’s top 10 best dive operators for 5 years straight. Ed, a widely published underwater photographer, offers specialized charters for small groups. Two-tank dives range from $110 to $120 ($5–$15 extra for equipment); his dive boats depart from Kihei Boat Ramp. If Ed is booked, call Severns Diving (& 808/879-6596; www.mikesevernsdiving.com), for small, personal diving tours on a 38-foot Munson/Hammerhead boat with freshwater shower. Pauline Fiene-Severns is a biologist who makes diving in Hawaii not only fun but also educational. In her 25-plus years of operation, the company has been accident-free. Two-tank dives are $120 (with equipment). Stop by any location of the Maui Dive Shop (www.maui diveshop.com), Maui’s largest diving retailer, which offers everything from rentals to scuba-diving instruction to dive-boat charters. They’ll give you a free copy of the 24-page Maui Dive Guide, which has maps and details about the 20 best shoreline and offshore dives and snorkeling sites, all ranked for beginner, intermediate, or advanced snorkelers/divers. This operation has locations in Kihei at Azeka Place II Shopping Center, 1455 S. Kihei Rd. (& 808/8793388), and at the Kamaole Shopping Center (& 808/879-1533); in Lahaina at the Lahaina Cannery Mall (& 808/661-5388); and in the Honokowai Market Place (& 808/661-6166). Other locations include Whalers Shopping Village, Kaanapali (& 808/661-5117), and Kahana Gateway, Kahana (& 808/669-3800).

SNORKELING Snorkeling is the main attraction in Maui—and almost anyone can do it. All you need are a mask, a snorkel, fins, and some basic swimming skills. Floating over underwater worlds through colorful clouds of tropical fish is like a dream. In many places, all you have to do is wade into the water and look down.

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Tips Safe Snorkeling Safety is key when snorkeling. Always go with a buddy. Look up every once in a while to how far offshore you are and whether there’s any boat traffic. Don’t touch anything; not only can you damage coral, but camouflaged fish and shells with poisonous spines might surprise you. Always check with a dive shop, lifeguards, and others on the beach about conditions in the area in which you plan to snorkel. If you’re not a good swimmer, wear a life jacket or other flotation device.

Snorkel Bob’s (www.snorkelbob.com) and the Activity Warehouse will rent you everything you need; see the introduction to this section for locations. Also see “Scuba Diving” (above) for Maui Dive Shop’s free booklet on great snorkeling sites. Maui’s best snorkeling beaches include Kapalua Beach; Black Rock, at Kaanapali Beach, in front of the Sheraton; along the Kihei coastline, especially at Kamaole III Beach Park; and along the Wailea coastline, particularly at Ulua Beach. Mornings are best, because local winds don’t kick in until around noon. Olowalu has great snorkeling around the 14-mile marker, where there is a turtle cleaning station about 50 to 75 yards out from shore. Turtles line up here to have cleaner wrasses pick off small parasites. Ahihi-Kinau Natural Preserve is another terrific place; it requires more effort to reach it, but it’s worth it. You can’t miss in Ahihi Bay, a 2,000-acre state natural area reserve in the lee of Cape Kinau, on Maui’s rugged south coast, where Haleakala spilled redhot lava that ran to the sea in 1790. Fish are everywhere in this series of rocky coves and black-lava tide pools. To get here, drive south of Makena past Puu Olai to Ahihi Bay, where the road turns to gravel and sometimes seems like it’ll disappear under the waves. At Cape Kinau, there are three four-wheel-drive trails that lead across the lava flow; take the shortest one, nearest La Pérouse Bay. If you have a standard car, drive as far as you can, park, and walk the remainder of the way. SNORKEL CRUISES TO MOLOKINI

The crater of Molokini sits almost midway between Maui and the uninhabited island of Kahoolawe. Tilted so that only the thin rim of its southern side shows above water in a perfect semicircle,

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Molokini stands like a scoop against the tide, and it serves, on its concave side, as a natural sanctuary for tropical fish and snorkelers, who commute daily in a fleet of dive boats to this marine-life preserve. Note that in high season, Molokini can be crowded with dozens of boats, each carrying scores of snorkelers. Maui Classic Charters Maui Classic Charters offers morning and afternoon snorkel-sail cruises to Molokini on Four Winds II, a 55-foot, glass-bottom catamaran, for $72 adults ($47 children 3–12) for the morning sail and $40 adults ($30 children) in the afternoon. Four Winds trips include a continental breakfast; a barbecue lunch; complimentary beer, wine, and soda; complimentary snorkeling gear and instruction; and sportfishing along the way. Those looking for speed should sign up for a trip on the fast, state-of-the-art catamaran Maui Magic. The company offers a 5hour snorkel journey to both Molokini and La Pérouse for $99 for adults and $79 for children ages 5 to 12, including a continental breakfast, barbecue lunch, beer, wine, soda, snorkel gear, and instruction. During whale season (Dec 22–Apr 22), the Maui Magic Whale Watch, a 11⁄ 2-hour trip with beverages, is $29 for adults and $24 for children 3 to 12. Maalaea Harbor, slip 55 and slip 80. & 800/736-5740 or 808/879-8188. www.mauicharters.com. Prices vary depending on cruise.

Ocean Activities Center In season, this activities center runs 2-hour whale-watching cruises on its own spacious 65-foot catamaran; trips range from $25 to $32 for adults and $15 to $20 for children ages 3 to 12. The best deal to Molokini is the 5-hour Maka Kai cruise, which includes a continental breakfast, deli lunch, snorkel gear, and instruction; it’s $60 for adults, $50 for teenagers, and $40 for children ages 3 to 12. Trips leave from Maalaea Harbor, slip 62. They also have a sportfishing charter boat (6-hr. shared boat starts at $135) and bottom fishing cruises for $95 per angler. 1847 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei. & 800/798-0652 or 808/879-4485. www.mauiocean activities.com. Prices vary depending on cruise.

Pride of Maui For a high-speed, action-packed snorkel-sail experience, consider the Pride of Maui. These 51⁄ 2-hour snorkel cruises take in not only Molokini, but also Turtle Bay and Makena for more snorkeling. Continental breakfast, barbecue lunch, gear, and instruction are included. Maalaea Harbor. & 877/TO-PRIDE or 808/875-0955. www.gopride.com. Trips $86 adults, $53 children 3–12.

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SPORTFISHING Marlin (as big as 1,200 lb.), tuna, ono, and mahimahi await the baited hook in Maui’s coastal and channel waters. No license is required; just book a sportfishing vessel out of Lahaina or Maalaea harbors. Most charter boats carry a maximum of six passengers. You can walk the docks, inspecting boats and talking to captains and crews, or book through an activities desk or one of the outfitters recommended below. Shop around: Prices vary widely according to the boat, the crowd, and the captain. A shared boat for a half day of fishing starts at $100; a shared full day of fishing starts at around $140. A half-day exclusive (you get the entire boat) is around $400 to $700; a fullday exclusive boat can range from $500 to $1,000. Also, many boat captains tag and release marlin or keep the fish for themselves (sorry, that’s Hawaii style). If you want to keep your catch, tell the captain before you go. The best booking desk in the state is Sportfish Hawaii (& 877/388-1376 or 808/396-2607; www.sportfishhawaii.com), which not only books boats on Maui, but on all islands. These fishing vessels have been inspected and must meet rigorous criteria to guarantee that you will have a great time. Prices range from $800 to $1,000 for a full-day exclusive charter (you, plus 5 friends, get the entire boat to yourself ), $600 to $675 for a half-day exclusive.

SURFING Always wanted to learn to surf, but didn’t know whom to ask? Call the Nancy Emerson School of Surfing (& 808/244-SURF or 808/874-1183; www.surfclinics.com). Nancy has been surfing since 1961, and has pioneered a new instructional technique called “Learn to Surf in One Lesson”—you can, really. It’s $70 per person for a 2-hour group lesson; private 2-hour classes are $140. In Hana, Hana-Maui Sea Sports (& 808/248-7711) has private lessons taught by a certified ocean lifeguard for $79 for a 2-hour lesson. Expert surfers visit Maui in winter when the surf ’s really up. The best surfing beaches include Honolua Bay, Lahaina Harbor (in summer, there’ll be waves just off the channel entrance with a south swell), Maalaea (a clean, world-class left), and Hookipa Beach, where surfers get the waves until noon; after that—in a carefully worked-out compromise to share this prized surf spot—the windsurfers take over.

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WHALE-WATCHING Every winter, pods of Pacific humpback whales make the 3,000mile swim from the chilly waters of Alaska to bask in Maui’s summery shallows, fluking, spy hopping, spouting, and having an all-around swell time. The whale-watching season usually begins in January and lasts until April or sometimes May. About 1,500 to 3,000 humpback whales appear in Hawaii waters each year. W H A L E - W AT C H I N G F R O M S H O R E

Between mid-December and April, you can just look out to sea. There’s no best time of day for whale-watching, but the whales seem to appear when the sea is glassy and the wind calm. Once you see one, keep watching in the same vicinity; they might stay down for 20 minutes. Bring a book—and binoculars, if you can. You can rent binoculars for $2 a day at the Activity Warehouse (& 800/ 343-2087; www.travelhawaii.com), which has branches in Lahaina at 578 Front St., near Prison Street (& 808/667-4000), and in Kihei at Azeka Place II, on the mountain side of Kihei Road near Lipoa Street (& 808/875-4000). Some good whale-watching points on Maui are: McGregor Point On the way to Lahaina, there’s a scenic lookout at mile marker 9 (just before you get to the Lahaina Tunnel); it’s a good viewpoint to scan for whales. Outrigger Wailea Resort On the Wailea coastal walk, stop at this resort to look for whales through the telescope installed as a public service by the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary. Olowalu Reef Along the straight part of Honoapiilani Highway, between McGregor Point and Olowalu, you’ll often spot whales leaping out of the water. Sometimes, their appearance brings traffic to a screeching halt: People abandon their cars and run down to the sea to watch, causing a major traffic jam. If you stop, pull off the road so that others can pass. Puu Olai It’s a tough climb up this coastal landmark near the Maui Prince Hotel, but you’re likely to be well rewarded: This is the island’s best spot for offshore whale-watching. On the 360-foot cinder cone overlooking Makena Beach, you’ll be at the right elevation to see Pacific humpbacks as they dodge Molokini and cruise up Alalakeiki Channel between Maui and Kahoolawe. If you don’t see one, you’ll at least have a whale of a view.

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W H A L E - W AT C H I N G C R U I S E S

For a closer look, take a whale-watching cruise. The Pacific Whale Foundation, 101 N. Kihei Rd., Kihei (& 800/942-5311 or 808/ 879-8811; www.pacificwhale.org), is a nonprofit foundation in Kihei that supports its whale research by offering cruises and snorkel tours, some to Molokini and Lanai. They have 15 daily trips to choose from, and their rates for a 2-hour whale-watching cruise start at $20 for adults, $15 for children. Cruises are offered from December through May, out of both Lahaina and Maalaea harbors. The Ocean Activities Center (& 800/798-0652 or 808/ 879-4485), in season, runs 2-hour whale-watching cruises on its own spacious 65-foot catamaran; trips range from $25 to $32 for adults and $15 to $20 for children ages 3 to 12. The best deal to Molokini is the 5-hour Maka Kai cruise, which includes a continental breakfast, deli lunch, snorkel gear, and instruction; it’s $60 for adults, $50 for teenagers, and $40 for children ages 3 to 12. Trips leave from Maalaea Harbor, slip 62. They also have a sportfishing charter boat (6-hr. shared boat starts at $135) and bottom fishing cruises for $95 per angler. If you want to combine ocean activities, then a snorkel or dive cruise to Molokini, the sunken crater off Maui’s south coast, might be just the ticket. You can see whales on the way there, at no extra charge. See “Scuba Diving” and “Boating & Sailing” earlier in this section.

WINDSURFING Maui has Hawaii’s best windsurfing beaches. In winter, windsurfers from around the world flock to the town of Paia to ride the waves; Hookipa Beach, known all over the globe for its brisk winds and excellent waves, is the site of several world-championship contests. Kanaha, west of Kahului Airport, also has dependable winds. When the winds turn northerly, Kihei is the spot to be; some days, you can spot whales in the distance behind the windsurfers. The northern end of Kihei is best: Ohukai Park, the first beach as you enter South Kiehi Road from the northern end, has not only good winds, but also parking, a long strip of grass to assemble your gear, and good access to the water. Experienced windsurfers here are found in front of the Maui Sunset condo, 1032 S. Kihei Rd., near Waipuilani Street (a block north of McDonald’s), which has great windsurfing conditions but a very shallow reef (not good for beginners).

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Hawaiian Island Surf and Sport, 415 Dairy Rd., Kahului (& 800/231-6958 or 808/871-4981; www.hawaiianisland.com), offers lessons, rentals, and repairs. Other shops that offer rentals and lessons are Hawaiian Sailboarding Techniques, 425 Koloa St., Kahului (& 800/968-5423 or 808/871-5423; www.hstwind surfing.com), with 21⁄ 2-hour lessons from $69 and equipment rental from $46 a day; and Maui Windsurf Co., 22 Hana Hwy., Kahului (& 800/872-0999 or 808/877-4816; www.maui-windsurf.com), which has complete equipment rental (board, sail, rig harness, and roof rack) from $45 and 11⁄ 2- or 21⁄ 2-hour lessons ranging from $69 to $75. For daily reports on wind and surf conditions, call the Wind and Surf Report at & 808/877-3611.

3 Hiking In the past 3 decades, Maui has grown from a rural island to a fastpaced resort destination, but its natural beauty largely remains; there are still many places that can be explored only on foot. Those interested in seeing the backcountry—complete with virgin waterfalls and remote wilderness trails—should head for Haleakala’s upcountry or the tropical Hana coast. For more information on Maui hiking trails and to obtain free maps, contact Haleakala National Park, P.O. Box 369, Makawao, HI 96768 (& 808/572-4400; www.nps.gov/hale), and the State Division of Forestry and Wildlife, 54 S. High St., Wailuku, HI 96793 (& 808/984-8100; www.hawaii.gov). For information on trails, hikes, and camping, and permits for state parks, contact the Hawaii State Department of Land and Natural Resources, State Parks Division, P.O. Box 621, Honolulu, HI 96809 (& 808/5870300; www.state.hi.us/dlnr); note that you can get information from the website but cannot obtain permits there. For information on Maui County Parks, contact Maui County Parks and Recreation, 1580-C Kaahumanu Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793 (& 808/2437380; http://www.co.maui.hi.us/departments/Parks/). TIPS ON SAFE HIKING Most stream water must be treated before drinking because cattle, pigs, and goats have probably contaminated the water upstream. Bacterium leptospirosis, which is found in freshwater streams throughout the state, enters the body through breaks in the skin or through the mucous membranes. It produces flulike symptoms and can be fatal. Carry enough drinking

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water with you on your hikes or use tablets with hydroperiodide to purify water. Also, don’t forget there is very little twilight in Maui when the sun sets—it gets dark quickly. GUIDED HIKES If you’d like a knowledgeable guide to accompany you on a hike, you have a few good options. Hikes range from short easy strolls through the rainforest to all-day adventures. For information about rates and the types call Maui Hiking Safaris (& 888/445-3963 or 808/573-0168; www.mauihikingsafaris. com), Hike Maui (& 808/879-5270; www.hikemaui.com), or Maui Eco-Adventures (& 877/661-7720 or 808/661-7720; www. ecomaui.com). For information on hikes given by the Hawaii Sierra Club on Maui, call & 808/573-4147 (www.hi.sierraclub.org).

HALEAKALA NATIONAL PARK For complete coverage of the national park, see “House of the Sun: Haleakala National Park” in chapter 6. D AY H I K E S F R O M T H E M A I N E N T R A N C E

Aside from the difficult hike into the crater, the park has a few shorter and easier options. Anyone can take a half-mile walk down the Hosmer Grove Nature Trail , or you can start down Sliding Sands Trail for a mile or two (hiking the entire trail usually takes more than a day). Even this short hike can be exhausting at the high altitude. A good day hike is Halemauu Trail to Holua Cabin and back, an 8-mile, half-day trip. The park rangers offer two guided hikes. The 2-hour, 2-mile Cinder Desert Hike takes place Tuesday and Friday at 10am and starts from the Sliding Sands Trailhead at the end of the Haleakala Visitor Center parking lot. The 3-hour, 3-mile Waikamoi Cloud Forest Hike leaves every Monday and Thursday at 9am; it starts at the Hosmer Grove, just inside the park entrance, and traverses through the Nature Conservancy’s Waikamoi Preserve. T H E E A S T M A U I S E C T I O N O F T H E PA R K AT K I PA H U L U ( N E A R H A N A )

APPROACHING KIPAHULU FROM HANA If you drive to Kipahulu, you’ll have to approach it from the Hana Highway—it’s not accessible from the summit. Always check in at the ranger station before you begin your hike; the staff can inform you of current conditions and share their wonderful stories about the history, culture, flora, and fauna of the area. There are two hikes you can take here. The first is a short, easy half-mile loop along the Kaloa Point Trail (Kaloa Point is a windy

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bluff overlooking Oheo Gulch), which leads toward the ocean along pools and waterfalls and back to the ranger station. The clearly marked path leaves the parking area and rambles along the flat, grassy peninsula. Crashing surf and views of the Big Island of Hawaii are a 5-minute walk from the ranger station. The second hike, although just a 4-mile round-trip, is steep. You’ll want to stop and swim in the pools, so allow 3 hours. You’ll be climbing over rocks and up steep trails, so wear hiking boots. Take water, snacks, swim gear, and insect repellent. Always be on the lookout for flash-flood conditions. This walk will pass two magnificent waterfalls, the 181-foot Makahiku Falls and the even bigger 400-foot Waimoku Falls . There’s a pool on the top of the Makahiku Falls that’s safe to swim in as long as the waters aren’t rising. The trail starts at the ranger station. GUIDED HIKES The rangers at Kipahulu conduct a 1-mile hike to the Bamboo Forest at 9am daily; half-mile hikes or orientation talks are given at noon, 1:30, 2:30, and 3:30pm daily; and a 4-mile round-trip hike to Waimoku Falls takes place on Saturday at 9:30am. All hikes begin at the ranger station.

SKYLINE TRAIL, POLIPOLI SPRINGS STATE RECREATION AREA This is some hike—strenuous but worth every step if you like seeing the big picture. It’s 8 miles, all downhill, with a dazzling 100mile view of the islands dotting the blue Pacific, plus the West Maui Mountains, which seem like a separate island. The trail is located just outside Haleakala National Park at Polipoli Springs National Recreation Area; however, you access it by going through the national park. The Skyline Trail starts just beyond the Puu Ulaula summit building on the south side of Science City and follows the southwest rift zone of Haleakala from its lunarlike cinder cones to a cool redwood grove. The trail drops 3,800 feet on a 4-hour hike to the recreation area, in the 12,000acre Kahikinui Forest Reserve. If you’d rather drive, you’ll need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to access the trail.

THE POLIPOLI LOOP, POLIPOLI STATE PARK The Polipoli Loop is an easy, 5-mile hike that takes about 3 hours. Dress warmly; the loop is up at 5,300 to 6,200 feet, so it’s cold, even in summer. To get here, take the Haleakala Highway (Hwy. 37) to Keokea and turn right onto Highway 337; after less than a half mile,

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turn on Waipoli Road, which climbs swiftly. After 10 miles, Waipoli Road ends at the Polipoli State Park campground. The well-marked trailhead is next to the parking lot, near a stand of Monterey cypress; the tree-lined trail offers the best view of the island. The Polipoli Loop is really a network of three trails: Haleakala Ridge, Plum Trail, and Redwood Trail. After a half mile of meandering through groves of eucalyptus, blackwood, swamp mahogany, and hybrid cypress, you’ll join the Haleakala Ridge Trail, which, about a mile into the trail, joins with the Plum Trail (named for the plums that ripen in June and July). It passes through massive redwoods and by an old Conservation Corps bunkhouse and a rundown cabin before joining up with the Redwood Trail, which climbs through Mexican pine, tropical ash, Port Orford cedar, and redwood.

HANA-WAIANAPANAPA COAST TRAIL This is an easy, 6-mile hike. Allow 4 hours to walk along this relatively flat trail, which parallels the sea, along lava cliffs and a forest of lauhala trees. The best time of day is in either the early morning or the late evening, when the light on the lava and surf makes for great photos and it’s not too hot. The trail is in Waianapanapa State Park, on the outskirts of Hana. There’s no formal trailhead; join the route at any point along the Waianapanapa Campground and go in either direction. Along the trail, you’ll see remains of an ancient heiau (temple), stands of lauhala trees, caves, and a blowhole.

WAIHEE RIDGE This strenuous 3- to 4-mile hike, with a 1,500-foot climb, offers spectacular views of the valleys of the West Maui Mountains. Allow 3 to 4 hours for the round-trip hike. Pack a lunch, carry water, and pick a dry day, as this area can get so wet that portions of the trail are impassible. There’s a picnic table at the summit with great views. To get here from Wailuku, turn north on Market Street, which becomes the Kahekilii Highway (Hwy. 340) and passes through Waihee. Go just over 21⁄ 2 miles from the Waihee Elementary School and look for the turnoff to the Boy Scouts’ Camp Maluhia on the left. Turn into the camp and drive nearly a mile to the trailhead on Jeep road. About a third of a mile in, there will be another gate, marking the entrance to the West Maui Forest Reserve. A foot trail, kept in good shape by the State Department of Land and Natural Resources, begins here. The trail climbs to the top of the ridge, offering great views of the various valleys.

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4 Great Golf Golfers new to Maui should know that it’s windy here, especially between 10am and 2pm, when winds of 10 to 15 mph are the norm. Play two to three clubs up or down to compensate for the wind factor. We also recommend bringing extra balls—the rough is thicker here and the wind will pick your ball up and drop it in very unappealing places (like water hazards). If your heart is set on playing on a resort course, book at least a week in advance. Weekdays are usually your best bet for tee times. For the ardent golfer on a tight budget: Play in the afternoon, when discounted twilight rates are in effect. There’s no guarantee you’ll get 18 holes in, especially in winter when it’s dark by 6pm, but you’ll have an opportunity to experience these world-famous courses at half the usual fee. If you don’t bring your own, rent clubs from the Activity Warehouse (& 800/343-2087; www.travelhawaii.com), which has branches in Lahaina at 602 Front St., near Prison Street (& 808/ 667-4000), and in Kihei at Azeka Place II, on the mountain side of Kihei Road near Lipoa Street (& 808/875-4000). Clubs go for $10 to $15 a day. Golf Club Rentals (& 808/665-0800; www. maui.net/~rentgolf ) offers custom-built clubs for men, women, and juniors in both right- and left-handed versions. Their rates are $15 to $25 a day. The company also offers lessons with pros starting at $125 for nine holes plus green fees. For last-minute and discount tee times, call Stand-by Golf (& 888/645-BOOK or 808/874-0600, www.stand-bygolf.com) between 7am and 9pm, Hawaii standard time. Stand-by offers discounted (by 10%–40%) and guaranteed tee times for same-day or next-day golfing.

WEST MAUI Both courses at Kaanapali offer a challenge to all golfers. The par-72, 6,305-yard North Course is a true Robert Trent Jones Sr. design: an abundance of wide bunkers, several long, stretched-out tees, and the largest, most contoured greens on Maui. The par-72, 6,250-yard South Course is an Arthur Jack Snyder design; although shorter than the North Course, it requires more accuracy on the narrow, hilly fairways.

Kaanapali Courses

Off Hwy. 30, Kaanapali. & 808/661-3691. www.kaanapali-golf.com. Greens fees $150 (North Course), $142 (South Course); Kaanapali guests pay $130 (North), $117 (South); twilight rates for the South Course are $85 after noon for everyone;

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after 2pm twilight rates are $77 (North), $74 (South) for everyone. At the first stoplight in Kaanapali, turn onto Kaanapali Pkwy.; the first building on your right is the clubhouse.

Kapalua Resort Courses The views from these three championship courses are worth the greens fees alone. The par-72, 6,761-yard Bay Course (& 808/669-8820) was designed by Arnold Palmer and Ed Seay. This course is a bit forgiving, with its wide fairways; the greens, however, are difficult to read. The par-71, 6,632yard Village Course (& 808/669-8830), another Palmer/Seay design, is the most scenic of the three courses. The Plantation Course (& 808/669-8877), site of the Mercedes Championships, is a Ben Crenshaw/Bill Coore design. This 6,547-yard, par-73 course, set on a rolling hillside, is excellent for developing your low shots. Off Hwy. 30, Kapalua. & 877/KAPALUA. Greens fees $180 ($125 for hotel guests) at the Village and Bay courses ($80 after 2pm); $220 ($135 for guests) at the Plantation Course ($85 after 2pm).

SOUTH MAUI Sitting in the foothills of Haleakala, offering spectacular ocean vistas from every hole, this course (formerly known as the Silversword Golf Club) is for golfers who love the views as much as the fairways and greens. It’s very forgiving. Just one caveat: Go in the morning. Not only is it cooler, but more important, it’s also much less windy. This is a fun course to play, with some challenging holes.

Elleair Maui Golf Club

1345 Piilani Hwy. (near Lipoa St. turnoff), Kihei. & 808/874-0777. Greens fees $85; twilight rates (after 2pm) $65; 9-hole rates (after 3:30pm) $45.

Makena Courses Here you’ll find 36 holes of “Mr. Hawaii Golf ”—Robert Trent Jones, Jr.—at its best. Add to that spectacular views: Molokini islet looms in the background, humpback whales gambol offshore in winter, and the tropical sunsets are spectacular. The par-72, 6,876-yard South Course has a couple of holes you’ll never forget. The view from the par-four 15th hole, which shoots from an elevated tee 183 yards downhill to the Pacific, is magnificent. The par-72, 6,823-yard North Course is more difficult and more spectacular. The 13th hole, located partway up the mountain, has a view that makes most golfers stop and stare. The next hole is even more memorable: a 200-foot drop between tee and green. On Makena Alanui Dr., just past the Maui Prince Hotel. & 808/879-3344. Greens fees $125 ($90 for Makena Resort guests). Twilight fees (after 2pm) $85 ($75 for guests).

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Wailea Courses There are three courses to choose from at Wailea. The Blue Course, a par-72, 6,758-yard course designed by Arthur Jack Snyder and dotted with bunkers and water hazards, is for duffers and pros alike. The wide fairways appeal to beginners, while the undulating terrain makes it a course everyone can enjoy. A little more difficult is the par-72, 7,078-yard championship Gold Course, with narrow fairways, several tricky dogleg holes, and the classic Robert Trent Jones, Jr. challenges: natural hazards, like lavarock walls, and native Hawaiian grasses. The Emerald Course, also designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., is Wailea’s newest, with tropical landscaping and a player-friendly design. Wailea Alanui Dr. (off Wailea Iki Dr.), Wailea. & 888/328-MAUI or 808/875-7450. Greens fees $140 Blue Course ($115 resort guests), twilight $95 ($80 resort guests); $160 Gold Course ($115 resort guests); $150 Emerald Course ($125 resort guests).

UPCOUNTRY MAUI Pukalani Country Club This cool, par-72, 6,962-yard course at 1,100 feet offers a break from the resorts’ high greens fees, and it’s really fun to play. High handicappers will love this course, and more experienced players can make it more challenging by playing from the back tees. 360 Pukalani St., Pukalani. & 808/572-1314. Greens fees, including cart, $55 for 18 holes before 11am; $45 11am–2pm; $35 after 2pm. Take the Hana Hwy. (Hwy. 36) to Haleakala Hwy. (Hwy. 37) to the Pukalani exit; turn right onto Pukalani St. and go 2 blocks.

5 Biking, Horseback Riding & Tennis BIKING Cruising down Haleakala, from the lunarlike landscape at the top, past flower farms, pineapple fields, and eucalyptus groves, is quite an experience. Numerous tour groups will drive you up to the top before dawn so you can see the amazing sunrise, then coast 37 miles down the 10,000-foot volcano. Wear layers of warm clothing, because there may be a 30°F (16°C) change in temperature from the top of the mountain to the ocean. Generally, tour groups will not take riders under 12, but younger children can ride along in the van that accompanies the groups, as can pregnant women. The trip usually costs between $100 and $140, which includes hotel pickup, transport to the top, bicycle and safety equipment, and meals. Maui’s oldest outfitter is Maui Downhill (& 800/535-BIKE or 808/871-2155; www.mauidownhill.com), which offers a sunrise safari bike tour, including continental breakfast and brunch,

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starting at $100. If it’s all booked up, try Maui Mountain Cruisers (& 800/232-6284 or 808/871-6014; www.mauimountaincruisers. com) or Mountain Riders Bike Tours (& 800/706-7700 or 808/242-9739), each of which offer sunrise rides for $120 to $125. If you want to avoid the crowd, call Haleakala Bike Company (& 888/922-2453; www.bikemaui.com), which will outfit you with the latest gear and take you up to the top, but after making sure you are secure on the bike will let you ride down by yourself at your own pace. Trips range from $55 to $75; they also have bicycle rentals to tour other parts of Maui on your own. If you want to venture out on your own, cheap rentals—$10 a day for cruisers and $20 a day for mountain bikes—are available from the Activity Warehouse (& 800/343-2087; www.travel hawaii.com), which has branches in Lahaina at 602 Front St., near Prison Street (& 808/667-4000), and in Kihei at Azeka Place II, on the mountain side of Kihei Road near Lipoa Street (& 808/ 875-4000). For information on bikeways and maps, get a copy of the Maui County Bicycle Map, which has information on road suitability, climate, trade winds, mileage, elevation changes, bike shops, safety tips, and various bicycling routes. The map is available for $7.50 ($6.25 for the map and $1.25 postage), bank checks or money orders only, from: Tri Isle R, C, and D Council, Attn: Bike Map Project, 200 Imi Kala St., Suite 208, Wailuku, HI 96793.

HORSEBACK RIDING Maui offers spectacular adventure rides through rugged ranchlands, into tropical forests, and to remote swimming holes. Contact Adventure on Horseback (& 808/242-7445 or 808/572-6211; www.mauihorsewhisperer.com) or Oheo Stables, Kipahulu Ranch (a mile past Oheo Gulch), Kipahulu (& 808/667-2222; www. mauihorse.com) for information on tours ranging from a couple hours to all day. If you’d like to ride down into Haleakala’s crater, contact Pony Express Tours (& 808/667-2200 or 808/ 878-6698; www.ponyexpresstours.com). We also recommend riding with Mendes Ranch & Trail Rides , 3530 Kahekili Hwy., 4 miles past Wailuku (& 808/244-7320; www.mendesranch.com) on the 300-acre Mendes Ranch.

TENNIS Maui has excellent public tennis courts; all are free and available from daylight to sunset (a few are even lit for night play until 10pm). The courts are available on a first-come, first-served basis;

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when someone’s waiting, limit your play to 45 minutes. For a complete list of public courts, call Maui County Parks and Recreation (& 808/243-7230). Private tennis courts are available at most resorts and hotels on the island. The Kapalua Tennis Garden and Village Tennis Center, Kapalua Resort (& 808/669-5677; www.kapaluamaui.com), charges $10 an hour for resort guests and $12 an hour for nonguests. The staff will match you up with a partner if you need one. In Wailea, try the Wailea Tennis Club, 131 Wailea Iki Place (& 808/879-1958), with 11 Plexi-pave courts. Court fees are $27 for Wailea resort guests and $35 for nonguests.

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here is far more to the Valley Isle than just sun, sand, and surf. Get out and see for yourself the otherworldly interior of a 10,000foot volcanic crater; watch endangered sea turtles make their way to nesting sites in a wildlife sanctuary; wander back in time to the days when whalers and missionaries fought for the soul of Lahaina; and feel the energy of a thundering waterfall cascade into a serene mountain pool.

1 Central Maui Central Maui isn’t exactly tourist central; this is where real people live. You’ll most likely land here and head directly to the beach. However, there are a few sights worth checking out if you need a respite from the sun and surf.

KAHULUI Next to Maui’s busiest intersection in Kahului’s new business park is the most unlikely place: Kanaha Wildlife Sanctuary, Haleakala Highway Extension and Hana Highway (& 808/984-8100). Look for a parking area off Haleakala Highway Extension (behind the mall, across the Hana Hwy. from Cutter Automotive), and you’ll find a 50-yard trail that meanders along the shore to a shade shelter and lookout. Watch for the sign proclaiming this the permanent home of the endangered black-neck Hawaiian stilt. Naturalists say this is a good place to see endangered Hawaiian Koloa ducks, stilts, coots, and other migrating shorebirds. For a quieter, more naturallooking wildlife preserve, try the Kealia Pond National Wildlife Preserve in Kihei (see “South Maui,” later in this chapter).

WAILUKU & WAIKAPU Wailuku is worth a visit for some terrific shopping (see chapter 7) and a brief stop at the Bailey House Museum , 2375-A Main St. (& 808/244-3326). Missionary and sugar planter Edward Bailey’s 1833 home is a treasure trove of Hawaiiana. Inside, you’ll find an eclectic collection, from precontact artifacts like scary temple

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Moments Flying High: Helicopter Rides A helicopter ride on Maui isn’t a wild ride; it’s more like a gentle gee-whiz zip into a seldom-seen Eden. Today’s pilots are an interesting hybrid: part Hawaiian historian, part DJ, part tour guide, and part amusement-ride operator. As you soar through the clouds, absorbing Maui’s scenic terrain, you’ll learn about the island’s flora, fauna, history, and culture. Among the many helicopter-tour operators on Maui, the best is Blue Hawaiian , at Kahului Airport (& 800/745BLUE or 808/871-8844; www.bluehawaiian.com). Flights last from 30 to 100 minutes and cost $150 to $335. Sunshine Helicopters (& 800/544-2520 or 808/871-0722; www.sunshine helicopters.com) also offers a variety of flights, costing from $125 to $235.

images, dog-tooth necklaces, and a rare lei made of tree-snail shells to latter-day relics like Duke Kahanamoku’s 1919 redwood surfboard. It’s open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 4pm. Admission is $4 adults, $3.50 seniors, $1 children ages 7 to 12. About 3 miles south of Wailuku on the Honoapiilani Highway lies the tiny village of Waikapu, which has two attractions that are worth a peek. Relive Maui’s past by taking a 40-minute narrated tram ride around fields of pineapple, sugar cane, and papaya trees at Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapiilani Hwy., Waikapu (& 800/451-6805 or 808/244-7643), a real working plantation open daily from 9am to 5pm. A shop sells fresh and dried fruit, and a restaurant serves lunch. Admission is free; the tram tours, which start at 10am and leave about every 45 minutes, are $9.50 for adults, $4.50 for kids 3 to 12. Marilyn Monroe and Frank Lloyd Wright meet for dinner every night (well, sort of ) at the Waikapu Golf and Country Club, 2500 Honoapiilani Hwy. (& 808/244-2011), one of Maui’s most unusual buildings. Neither actually set foot on Maui, but these icons of glamour and architecture share a Hawaiian legacy. Wright designed this place for a Pennsylvania family in 1949, but it was never constructed. In 1957, Marilyn and husband Arthur Miller wanted it built for them in Connecticut, but they separated the following year. Tokyo billionaire Takeshi Sekiguchi found the blueprints and had Marilyn’s Wright house cleverly redesigned as a clubhouse for his 18-hole golf course. You can walk in and look

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around at Wright’s architecture and the portraits of Marilyn in Monroe’s, the restaurant.

IAO VALLEY A couple of miles north of Wailuku, past the Bailey House Museum, Maui’s true nature begins to reveal itself. After the hot tropic sun, the air is moist and cool, and the shade a welcome comfort. This is Iao Valley, a 6-acre state park whose great nature, history, and beauty have been enjoyed by millions of people from around the world for more than a century. Iao (“Supreme Light”) Valley, 10 miles long and encompassing 4,000 acres, is the eroded volcanic caldera of the West Maui Mountains. The head of the Iao Valley is a broad circular amphitheater where four major streams converge into Iao Stream. At the back of the amphitheater is rain-drenched Puu Kukui, the West Maui Mountains’ highest point. This peaceful valley, full of tropical plants, rainbows, waterfalls, swimming holes, and hiking trails, is a place of solitude, reflection, and escape for residents and visitors alike. From Wailuku, take Main Street, then turn right on Iao Valley Road to the entrance to the state park. The park is open daily from 7am to 7pm. For information, contact Iao Valley State Park, State Parks and Recreation, 54 S. High St., Rm. 101, Wailuku, HI 96793 (& 808/ 984-8109; www.hawaii.gov). The Hawaii Nature Center , 875 Iao Valley Rd. (& 808/244-6500; www.hawaiinaturecenter.org), home of the Iao Valley Nature Center, features hands-on, interactive exhibits and displays relating the story of Hawaiian natural history. Hours are daily from 10am to 4pm; admission is $6 for adults and $4 for children 4 to 12, under 4 free. Two paved walkways loop into the massive green amphitheater, across the bridge of Iao Stream, and along the stream itself. The onethird-mile loop on a paved trail is an easy walk—you can even take your grandmother on this one. A leisurely stroll will allow you to enjoy lovely views of the Iao Needle and the lush vegetation. The feature known as Iao Needle is an erosional remnant composed of basalt dikes. The phallic rock juts an impressive 2,250 feet above sea level. An architectural heritage park of Hawaiian, Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, and New England–style houses stands in harmony by Iao Stream at Kepaniwai Heritage Garden. This is a good picnic spot, with plenty of picnic tables and benches available. You can see ferns, banana trees, and other native and exotic plants in the Iao Valley Botanic Garden along the stream.

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2 Lahaina & West Maui HISTORIC LAHAINA Located between the West Maui Mountains and the deep azure ocean offshore, Lahaina stands out as one of the few places in Hawaii that has managed to preserve its 19th-century heritage while still accommodating 21st-century guests. This is no quiet seaside village, but a vibrant, cutting-edge kind of place, filled with a sense of history—but definitely with its mind on the future. Baldwin Home Museum The oldest house in Lahaina, this coral-and-rock structure was built in 1834 by Rev. Dwight Baldwin, a doctor with the fourth company of American missionaries to sail round the Horn to Hawaii. After 17 years of service, Baldwin was granted 2,600 acres in Kapalua for farming and grazing. His ranch manager experimented with what Hawaiians called hala-kahiki, or pineapple, on a 4-acre plot; the rest is history. The house looks as if Baldwin has just stepped out for a minute to tend a sick neighbor down the street. Next door is the Masters’ Reading Room, Maui’s oldest building. This became visiting sea captains’ favorite hangout once the missionaries closed down all of Lahaina’s grog shops and banned prostitution; but by 1844, once hotels and bars started reopening, it lost its appeal. It’s now the headquarters of the Lahaina Restoration Foundation (& 808/661-3262). Stop in and pick up a self-guided walking-tour map, which will take you to Lahaina’s most historic sites. 120 Dickenson St. (at Front St.). & 808/661-3262. Admission $3 adults, $2 seniors, $5 family. Daily 10am–4:30pm. Kids Of all the banyan trees in Hawaii, this is the greatest of all—so big that you can’t get it all in your camera’s viewfinder. It was only 8 feet tall when it was planted in 1873 by Maui Sheriff William O. Smith to mark the 50th anniversary of Lahaina’s first Christian mission; now the big old banyan from India is more than 50 feet tall, has 12 major trunks, and shades two-thirds of an acre in Courthouse Square.

Banyan Tree

At the Courthouse Building, 649 Wharf St. Kids This restored square-rigged brigantine, an authentic replica of a 19th-century whaling ship, the kind that brought the first missionaries to Hawaii, was closed for “repairs” when we went to press. Apparently the old vessel has

The Brig Carthaginian

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become a liability, and the people in charge were leaning towards getting rid of the old boat versus repairing her. As we went to press, history lovers were frantically trying to raise funds to either restore the old ship or purchase another replica of the same era. If you don’t see her proud masts at the foot of the Lahaina Pier, then you know her fate. If the ship is still there, drop by; the floating museum features exhibits on whales and 19th-century whaling life. Lahaina Harbor. & 808/661-8527. Admission $3 adults, $2 seniors, $5 family. Daily 10am–4:30pm.

This site has long been held sacred. The Hawaiians called it Puunoa Point, which means “the hill freed from taboo.” Once a small village named “Mala” (“garden”), this peaceful place was a haven for Japanese immigrants, who came to Hawaii in 1868 as laborers for the sugar cane plantations. They eventually built a small wooden temple to worship here. In 1968, on the 100th anniversary of the Japanese in Hawaii, a Great Buddha statue, the largest outside of Japan (some 12 ft. high and weighing 31⁄ 2 tons) was brought here from Japan. The immaculate grounds also contain a replica of the original wooden temple and a 90-foot-tall pagoda. Lahaina Jodo Mission

12 Ala Moana St. (off Front St., near the Mala Wharf). admission. Daily during daylight hours.

& 808/661-4304. Free

Maluuluolele Park Kids At first glance, this Front Street park appears to be only a hot, dry, dusty softball field. But under home plate is the edge of Mokuula, where a royal compound once stood more than 100 years ago, now buried under tons of red dirt and sand. Here, Prince Kauikeaolui, who ascended the throne as King Kamehameha III when he was only 10, lived with the love of his life, his sister Princess Nahienaena. Missionaries took a dim view of incest, which was acceptable to Hawaiian nobles in order to preserve the royal bloodlines. Kamehameha died in 1854 at the age of 39. In 1918, his royal compound, containing a mausoleum and artifacts of the kingdom, was demolished and covered with dirt to create a public park. The site of this royal place is still considered sacred to many Hawaiians. Front and Shaw sts.

The Chinese were among the various immigrants brought to Hawaii to work in the sugar cane fields. In 1909, several Chinese workers formed the Wo Hing society, a chapter of the Chee Kun Tong society, which dates from the 17th century. In

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1912, they built this social hall for the Chinese community. Completely restored, the Wo Hing Temple contains displays and artifacts on the history of the Chinese in Lahaina; next door in the old cookhouse is a theater with movies of Hawaii taken by Thomas Edison in 1898 and 1903. Front St. (between Wahie Lane and Papalaua St.). & 808/661-3262. Admission by donation. Daily 10am–4pm.

A WHALE OF A PLACE IN KAANAPALI Heading north from Lahaina, the next resort area you’ll come to is Kaanapali, which boasts a gorgeous stretch of beach. If you haven’t seen a real whale yet, go to Whalers Village, 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy., a shopping center that has adopted the whale as its mascot. You can’t miss it: A huge, almost life-size metal sculpture of a mother whale and two nursing calves greets you. A few more steps, and you’re met by the looming, bleached-white bony skeleton of a 40-foot sperm whale; it’s pretty impressive.

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On the second floor of the mall is the Whale Center of the Pacific (& 808/661-5992), a museum celebrating the “Golden Era of Whaling” (1825–60). Harpoons and scrimshaw are on display; the museum has even re-created the cramped quarters of a whaler’s seagoing vessel. Open during mall hours, daily from 9:30am to 10pm; admission is free.

THE SCENIC ROUTE FROM WEST MAUI TO CENTRAL OR UPCOUNTRY MAUI: THE KAHEKILI HIGHWAY The usual road from West Maui to Wailuku is the Honoapiilani Highway (Hwy. 30), which runs along the coast and then turns inland at Maalaea. But those in search of a back-to-nature driving experience should go the other way, along the Kahekili Highway (Hwy. 340). (Highway is a bit of a euphemism for this paved but somewhat precarious narrow road; check your rental-car agreement before you head out. If it is raining or has been raining, skip this road due to mud and rock slides.)

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You’ll start out on the Honoapiilani Highway (Hwy. 30), which becomes the Kahekili Highway (Hwy. 340) after Honokohau, at the northernmost tip of the island. Around this point are Honolua and Mokuleia bays, which have been designated as Marine Life Conservation Areas. From this point, the quality of the road deteriorates, and you may share the way with roosters, goats, cows, and dogs. The narrow, winding road follows an ancient Hawaiian coastal footpath and will show you the true wild nature of Maui: steep ravines, rolling pastoral hills, tumbling waterfalls, exploding blowholes, crashing surf, jagged lava coastlines, and a tiny Hawaiian village straight off a postcard. Just before mile marker 20, look for a small turnoff on the mauka side of the road (just before the guardrail starts). Park here and walk across the road, and on your left you’ll see a spouting blowhole. In winter, this is an excellent spot to look for whales. Just before mile marker 16, look for the POHAKU KANI sign, marking the huge, 6-by-6-foot, bell-shaped stone. To “ring” the bell, look on the side facing Kahakuloa for the deep indentations, and strike the stone with another rock. Along the route, nestled in a crevice between two steep hills, is the picturesque village of Kahakuloa (“the tall hau tree”), with a dozen weather-worn houses, a church with a red-tile roof, and vivid green taro patches. When you’re approaching Wailuku, stop at the Halekii and Pihanakalani Heiau, which visitors rarely see. To get here from Wailuku, turn north from Main Street onto Market Street. Turn right onto Mill Street and follow it until it ends; then make a left on Lower Main Street. Follow Lower Main until it ends at Waiehu Beach Road (Hwy. 340), and turn left. Turn left on Kuhio Street and again at the first left onto Hea Place, and drive through the gates and look for the Hawaii Visitor’s Bureau marker. These two heiau, built in 1240 from stones carried up from the Iao Stream below, sit on a hill with a commanding view of central Maui and Haleakala. After the bloody battle at Iao Stream, Kamehameha I reportedly came to the temple here to pay homage to the war god, Ku, with a human sacrifice. Halekii (“House of Images”) is made of stone walls with a flat grassy top, whereas Pihanakalani (“gathering place of supernatural beings”) is a pyramid-shaped mount of stones. If you sit quietly nearby (never walk on any heiau—it’s considered disrespectful), you’ll see that the view alone explains why this spot was chosen.

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3 South Maui MAALAEA At the bend in the Honopiilani Highway (Hwy. 30), Maalaea Bay runs along the south side of the isthmus between the West Maui Mountains and Haleakala. This is the windiest area on Maui, and conditions out in Maalaea Bay are ideal for windsurfers. Surfers are also seen just outside the small boat harbor in Maalaea. Kids Maui Ocean Center This 5-acre facility houses the largest aquarium in Hawaii. Exhibits are geared toward the residents of Hawaii’s ocean waters. As you walk past the three dozen or so tanks and countless exhibits, you’ll slowly descend from the “beach” to the deepest part of the ocean. Start at the surge pool, where you’ll see shallow-water marine life like spiny urchins and cauliflower coral, then move on to the reef tanks, turtle pool, “touch” pool (with starfish and urchins), and eagle-ray pool before reaching the star of the show: the 100-foot-long, 600,000-gallon main tank featuring tiger, gray, and white-tip sharks. The most phenomenal thing about this tank is that the walkway goes right through it—so you’ll be surrounded by marine creatures. A very cool place, and well worth the time. Maalaea Harbor Village, at the triangle between Honoapiilani Hwy. and Maalaea Rd. & 808/270-7000. Fax 808/270-7070. www.mauioceancenter.com. Admission $19 adults, $17 seniors, $13 children 3–12. Daily 9am–5pm.

KIHEI Capt. George Vancouver landed at Kihei in 1778, when it was only a collection of fisherman’s grass shacks on the hot, dry, dusty coast. A totem pole stands today where he’s believed to have landed, across from Aston Maui Lu Resort, 575 S. Kihei Rd., Vancouver sailed on to what later became British Columbia. West of the junction of Piilani Highway (Hwy. 31) and Mokulele Highway (Hwy. 350) is Kealia Pond National Wildlife Preserve (& 808/875-1582), a 700-acre U.S. Fish and Wildlife wetland preserve where endangered Hawaiian stilts, coots, and ducks hang out and splash. These ponds work two ways: as bird preserves and as sedimentation basins that keep the coral reefs from silting from runoff. You can take a self-guided tour along a boardwalk dotted with interpretive signs and shade shelters, through sand dunes, and around ponds to Maalaea Harbor. The boardwalk starts at the outlet of Kealia Pond on the ocean side of North Kihei Road (near mile marker 2 on Piilani Hwy.). Among the Hawaiian waterbirds seen

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here are the black-crowned high heron, Hawaiian coot, Hawaiian duck, and Hawaiian stilt. There are also shorebirds like sanderling, Pacific golden plover, ruddy turnstone, and wandering tattler. From July to December, the hawksbill turtle comes ashore here to lay her eggs. Tip: If you’re bypassing Kihei, take the Piilani Highway (Hwy. 31), which parallels strip-mall laden South Kihei Road, and avoid the hassle of stoplights and traffic.

WAILEA The dividing line between arid Kihei and artificially green Wailea is distinct. Alexander & Baldwin, Inc. (of sugar cane fame) began developing a resort here in the 1970s (after piping water from the other side of the island to the desert terrain of Wailea). Today, the manicured 1,450 acres of this affluent resort stand out like an oasis along the normally dry leeward coast. The best way to explore this golden resort coast is to rise with the sun and head for Wailea’s 11⁄ 2-mile coastal nature trail , stretching between the Kea Lani Hotel and the kiawe thicket just beyond the Renaissance Wailea. It’s a serpentine path that meanders uphill and down past native plants, old Hawaiian habitats, and luxury hotels. You can pick up the trail at any of the resorts or from clearly marked SHORELINE ACCESS points along the coast. The best time to go is when you first wake up; by midmorning, the coastal trail starts getting crowded. As the path crosses several bold black-lava points, it affords new vistas of islands and ocean; benches allow you to pause and contemplate the view across Alalakeiki Channel, which jumps with whales in season. Sunset is another good time to hit the trail.

MAKENA A few miles south of Wailea, the manicured coast turns to wilderness; now you’re in Makena. Makena Landing is a beach park with boat-launching facilities, showers, toilets, and picnic tables. It’s great for snorkeling and for launching kayaks bound for Pérouse Bay and Ahihi-Kinau preserve. From the landing, go south on Makena Road; on the right is Keawali Congregational Church (& 808/879-5557), built in 1855 with walls 3 feet thick. Built of lava rock with coral used as mortar, this Protestant church sits on its own cove with a gold-sand beach. It always attracts a Sunday crowd for its 9:30am Hawaiianlanguage service.

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A little farther south on the coast is La Pérouse Monument , a pyramid of lava rocks that marks the spot where French explorer Admiral Comte de La Pérouse set foot on Maui in 1786. The first Westerner to “discover” the island, he described the “burning climate” of the leeward coast, observed several fishing villages near Kihei, and sailed on into oblivion, never to be seen again; some believe he may have been eaten by cannibals in what is now Vanuatu. To get here, drive south past Puu Olai to Ahihi Bay, where the road turns to gravel. Go another 2 miles along the coast to La Pérouse Bay; the monument sits amid a clearing in black lava at the end of the dirt road. The rocky coastline and sometimes rough seas contribute to the lack of appeal for water activities here; hiking opportunities, however, are excellent. Bring plenty of water and sun protection, and wear hiking boots that can withstand walking on lava. From La Pérouse Bay, you can pick up the old King’s Highway trail, which at one time circled the island. Walk along the sandy beach at La Pérouse and look for the trail indentation in the lava.

4 House of the Sun: Haleakala National Park £ At once forbidding and compelling, Haleakala National Park (“House of the Sun”) is Maui’s main natural attraction. More than 1.3 million people a year go up the 10,023-foot-high mountain to peer down into the crater of the world’s largest dormant volcano. That hole would hold Manhattan: 3,000 feet deep and 71⁄ 2 miles long by 21⁄ 2 miles wide. But there’s more to do here than simply stare in a big black hole: Just going up the mountain is an experience in itself. The snaky road passes through big, puffy, cumulus clouds to offer magnificent views of the isthmus of Maui, the West Maui Mountains, and the Pacific Ocean. Many drive up to the summit in predawn darkness to watch the sunrise over Haleakala. Others take a trail ride inside the bleak lunar landscape of the wilderness inside the crater, or coast down the 37-mile road from the summit on a bicycle with special brakes (see “Biking” and “Horseback Riding” in chapter 5). Hardy adventurers hike into the crater’s wilderness (see “Hiking” in chapter 5).

JUST THE FACTS Haleakala National Park extends from the summit of Mount Haleakala into the crater, down the volcano’s southeast flank to

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Maui’s eastern coast, beyond Hana. There are actually two separate and distinct destinations within the park: Haleakala Summit and the Kipahulu coast (see “Tropical Haleakala: Oheo Gulch at Kipahulu” later in this chapter). No road links the summit and the coast; you have to approach them separately, and you need at least a day to see each place. WHEN TO GO At the 10,023-foot summit, weather changes fast. Before you go, get current weather conditions from the park (& 808/572-4400) or the National Weather Service (& 808/ 871-5054). From sunrise to noon, the light is weak, but the view is usually free of clouds. The best time for photos is in the afternoon, when the sun lights the crater and clouds are few. Go on full-moon nights for spectacular viewing. As with all natural attractions, there are no schedules or guarantees, however. ACCESS POINTS Haleakala Summit is 37 miles, or about a 2hour drive, from Kahului. To get here, take Highway 37 to Highway 377 to Highway 378. For details on the drive, see “The Drive to the Summit” below. Pukalani is the last town for water, food, and gas. The Kipahulu section of the national park is on Maui’s east end near Hana, 60 miles from Kahului on Highway 36 (the Hana Hwy.). Due to traffic and rough road conditions, plan on 4 hours for the drive from Kahului (see “Driving the Road to Hana” below). Hana is the only nearby town for services, water, gas, food, and overnight lodging; some facilities may not be open after dark. At both entrances to the park, the admission fee is $5 per person or $10 per car, good for a week of unlimited entry. INFORMATION, VISITOR CENTERS & RANGER PROGRAMS For information before you go, contact Haleakala National Park, P.O. Box 369, Makawao, HI 96768 (& 808/5724400; www.nps.gov.hale). One mile from the park entrance, at 7,000 feet, is Haleakala National Park Headquarters (& 808/572-4400), open daily from 7am to 4pm. Restrooms, a pay phone, and drinking water are available. The Haleakala Visitor Center, open daily from sunrise to 3pm, is near the summit, 11 miles from the park entrance. Park staff members are often handy to answer questions. The only facilities are restrooms and water. Rangers offer excellent, informative, and free naturalist talks at 9:30, 10:30, and 11:30am daily in the summit building. For

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information on hiking (including guided hikes) and camping, including cabins and campgrounds in the wilderness itself, see “Hiking” in chapter 5.

THE DRIVE TO THE SUMMIT If you look on a Maui map, almost in the middle of the part that resembles a torso, there’s a black wiggly line that looks like this: WWWWW. That’s Highway 378, also known as Haleakala Crater Road—one of the fastest-ascending roads in the world. This grand corniche takes you past rare silversword plants and endangered Hawaiian geese sailing through the clear, thin air; and offers a view that extends for more than 100 miles. Going to the summit takes about 2 hours from Kahului. No matter where you start out, you’ll follow Highway 37 (Haleakala Hwy.) to Pukalani, where you’ll pick up Highway 377 (which is also Haleakala Hwy.), which you take to Highway 378. Along the way, expect fog, rain, and wind. You might encounter stray cattle and downhill bicyclists. Fill up your gas tank before you go—the only gas available is 27 miles below the summit at Pukalani. There are no facilities beyond the ranger stations—not even a coffee urn in sight. Bring your own food and water. Remember, you’re entering a high-altitude wilderness area. Some people get dizzy due to the lack of oxygen; you might also suffer lightheadedness, shortness of breath, nausea, or worse: severe headaches, flatulence, and dehydration. People with asthma, pregnant women, heavy smokers, and those with heart conditions should be especially careful. Bring water and a jacket or a blanket, especially if you go up for sunrise. As you go up the slopes the temperate drops about 3°F every 1,000 feet, so the temperature at the top can be 30°F (17°C) cooler than it was at sea level. Come prepared with sweaters, jackets, and rain gear. About a mile from the park entrance is Park Headquarters, where an endangered nene, or Hawaiian goose, might greet you with its unique call. Now protected as Hawaii’s state bird, the wild nene on Haleakala numbers fewer than 250—and the species remains endangered. Beyond headquarters are two scenic overlooks on the way to the summit. Leleiwi Overlook is just beyond mile marker 17. From the parking area, a short trail leads you to a panoramic view of the lunarlike crater. Two miles farther along is Kalahaku Overlook , the best place to see a rare silversword. You can turn into this

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overlook only when you are descending from the top. The silversword is the punk of the plant world, its silvery bayonets displaying tiny purple bouquets—like a spacey artichoke with attitude. Silverswords grow only in Hawaii, take from 4 to 50 years to bloom, and then, usually between May and October, send up a 1- to 6-foot stalk with a purple bouquet of sunflower-like blooms. They’re now very rare, so don’t even think about taking one home. Continue on, and you’ll quickly reach the Haleakala Visitor Center , which offers spectacular views. You’ll feel as if you’re at the edge of the earth. But don’t turn around here; the actual summit’s a little farther on, at Puu Ulaula Overlook (also known as Red Hill), the volcano’s highest point. If you do go up for sunrise, the building at Puu Ulaula Overlook, a triangle of glass that serves as a windbreak, is the best viewing spot. After sunrise you can see all the way across Alenuihaha Channel to the often snowcapped summit of Mauna Kea on the Big Island. MAKING YOUR DESCENT Put your car in low gear; that way, you won’t destroy your brakes by riding them the whole way down.

5 More in Upcountry Maui On the slopes of Haleakala, cowboys, planters, and other country people make their homes in serene, neighborly communities like Makawao and Kula, a world away from the bustling beach resorts. Even if you can’t spare a day or 2 in the cool upcountry air, there are some sights that are worth a look on your way to or from the crater. Shoppers and gallery hoppers might really want to make the effort; see chapter 7 for details. Kula Botanical Garden You can take a self-guided, informative, leisurely stroll through more than 700 native and exotic plants—including three unique collections of orchids, proteas, and bromeliads—at this 5-acre garden. It offers a good overview of Hawaii’s exotic flora in one small, cool place. Hwy. 377, south of Haleakala Crater Rd. (Hwy. 378), 1⁄ 2 mile from Hwy. 37. & 808/ 878-1715. Admission $5 adults, $1 children 6–12. Daily 9am–4pm.

On the southern shoulder of Haleakala is Ulupalakua Ranch, a 20,000-acre spread once owned by sea captain James Makee. Still in operation, the ranch is now home to Maui’s only winery, established in 1974 by Napa vintner Emil Tedeschi, who began growing California and European

Tedeschi Vineyards and Winery

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grapes here and producing still and sparkling wines. The rustic grounds are the perfect place for a picnic. Off Hwy. 37 (Kula Hwy.). & 808/878-6058. www.mauiwine.com. Daily 9am–5pm. Free tastings; tours given 10:30am–1:30pm.

6 East Maui & Heavenly Hana DRIVING THE ROAD TO HANA Top down, sunscreen on, radio tuned to a little Hawaiian music on a Maui morning: It’s time to head out to Hana along the Hana Highway (Hwy. 36), a wiggle of a road that runs along Maui’s northeastern shore. The drive takes at least 3 hours, but plan to take all day. Going to Hana is about the journey, not the destination. In all of Hawaii no road is more celebrated than this one. It winds for 50 miles past taro patches, magnificent seascapes, waterfall pools, botanical gardens, and verdant rainforests, and it ends at one of Hawaii’s most beautiful tropical places. The outside world discovered the little village of Hana in 1926, when the narrow coastal road first opened. The mud-and-gravel road was paved in 1962, when tourist traffic began to increase; it now sees more than 1,000 cars and dozens of vans a day, according to storekeeper Harry Hasegawa. Go at the wrong time, and you’ll be stuck in a bumper-to-bumper rental-car parade—peak traffic hours are midmorning and midafternoon year-round, especially on weekends. In the rush to “do” Hana in a day, most visitors spin around town in 10 minutes flat and wonder what all the fuss is about. It takes time to take in Hana, play in the waterfalls, sniff the tropical flowers, and take in the spectacular scenery; stay overnight if you can, and meander back in a day or two. However, if you really must do the Hana Highway in a day, go just before sunrise and return after sunset. THE JOURNEY BEGINS IN PAIA Before you even start out, fill up your gas tank. Gas in Paia is very expensive, but it’s the last

Tips Hana Highway Etiquette Practice aloha: Give way at the one-lane bridges, wave at oncoming motorists, let the big guys in four-by-fours have the right of way—it’s just common sense, brah. If the guy behind you blinks his lights, let him pass. Oh, yeah, and don’t honk your horn—in Hawaii, it’s considered rude.

The Road to Hana Waipio Bay

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place for gas until you get to Hana, some 42 miles, 54 bridges, and 600 hairpin turns down the road. Plan to be here early, around 7am, when Charley’s , 142 Hana Hwy. (& 808/579-9453), opens. Enjoy a big, hearty breakfast for a reasonable price. After your meal, head up Baldwin Avenue; about a half block from the intersection of the Hana Highway and Baldwin Avenue, stop by Pic-nics , 30 Baldwin Ave. (& 808/ 579-8021), to stock up for a picnic lunch for the road (p. 104). After you leave Paia the road then bends into an S-turn; in the middle of the S is the entrance to Mama’s Fish House, marked by a restored boat with Mama’s logo on the side. Just past the truck on the ocean side is the entrance to Mama’s parking lot and adjacent small sandy cove in front of the restaurant. Ocean access is treacherous, over very slippery rocks, but the beach is a great place to sit and soak up some sun. WINDSURFING MECCA Just before mile marker 9 is one of the greatest windsurfing spots on the planet, Hookipa Beach Park . On nearly every windy afternoon (the board surfers have the waves in the morning), you can watch dozens of windsurfers twirling and dancing in the wind like colored butterflies. To watch the windsurfers, go past the park and turn left at the entrance on the far side

Honomanu Bay Keanae

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Hana Airport

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of the beach. You can either park on the high grassy bluff or drive down to the sandy beach and park alongside the pavilion. The park also has restrooms, a shower, picnic tables, and a barbecue area. INTO THE COUNTRY Past Hookipa Beach, the road winds down into Maliko (“Budding”) Gulch at mile marker 10. At the bottom of the gulch, look for the road on your right, which will take you out to Maliko Bay. Take the first right, which goes under the bridge, past a rodeo arena, then on to the rocky beach. There are no facilities here except a boat-launch ramp. The bay may not look that special, but if the surf is up, it’s a great place to watch the waves. Back on the Hana Highway, as you leave Maliko Gulch, around mile marker 11, you’ll pass through the rural area of Haiku, with banana patches, cane grass blowing in the wind, and forests of guava trees, avocados, kukui trees, palms, and Christmas berry. Just before mile marker 15 is the Maui Grown Market and Deli (& 808/ 572-1693), a good stop for drinks or snacks for the ride. At mile marker 16, the curves begin, one right after another. Slow down and enjoy the view of bucolic rolling hills, mango trees, and vibrant ferns. After mile marker 16, the road is still called the Hana Highway, but the number changes from Highway 36 to Highway 360, and the mile markers go back to 0.

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Tips Travel Tip If you’d like to know exactly what you’re seeing as you head down the road to Hana, we suggest renting a cassette tour, available from Activity Warehouse (www.travelhawaii.com), which has branches in Lahaina at 602 Front St., near Prison Street (& 808/667-4000), and in Kihei at Azeka Place II, on the mountain side of Kihei Road near Lipoa Street (& 808/ 875-4000), for $10 a day.

A GREAT PLUNGE ALONG THE WAY The first great place to stop for a dip in a waterfall pool is Twin Falls , at mile marker 2. Just before the wide, concrete bridge, pull over on the mountain side and park (but not in front of the sign that says DO NOT BLOCK DRIVEWAY). A warning: There have been thefts in this area. Ignore the NO TRESPASSING sign (no one will mind, but you’re liable if you stub your toe) and hop over the ladder on the right side of the red gate. From here you can walk 3 to 5 minutes to the waterfall and pool, or continue on another 10 to 15 minutes to the second, larger waterfall and pool (don’t go in if it has been raining). HIDDEN HUELO Just before mile marker 4 on a blind curve, look for a double row of mailboxes on the left-hand side by the pay phone. Down the road lies a Hawaii of an earlier time, where serenity prevails. Protruding out of Maui’s tumultuous northern coastline, hemmed in by Waipo and Hoalua bays, is the remote, rural community of Huelo . Once, this fertile area supported a population of 75,000; today, only a few hundred live among the scattered homes on this windswept land. Huelo’s historic 1853 Kaulanapueo Church sits in the center of a putting-green–perfect lawn, bordered with hog-wire fence and accessible through a squeaky, metal turnstile. Reminiscent of New England architecture, this coral-and-cement church is still in use, although services are held just once or twice a month. Next to the church is a small graveyard, a personal history of this village in concrete and stone. KOOLAU FOREST RESERVE After Huelo you’ll reach the Koolau Forest Reserve . The reserve is a great example of a lush windward area: The coastline here gets about 60 to 80 inches of rain

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a year, and farther up the mountain, the rainfall is 200 to 300 inches a year. Here you will see 20- to 30-foot-tall guava trees, their branches laden fruit. The skin is peeled and the fruit inside of the guava eaten raw, squeezed for juice, or cooked for jams or jellies. Also in this prolific area are mangos, java plums, and avocados. The spiny, longleafed plants you see are hala trees, which the Hawaiians used for roofing material and for weaving baskets, mats, and even canoe sails. The copious rainfall up the mountain means a waterfall (and 1lane bridge) around nearly every turn in the road from here on out, so drive slowly and be prepared to stop and yield to oncoming cars. DANGEROUS CURVES About a half mile after mile marker 6, there’s a sharp U-curve in the road, going uphill. The road is practically one lane here, with a brick wall on one side and virtually no maneuvering room. Sound your horn at the start of the U-curve to let approaching cars know you are coming. Take this curve, as well as the few more coming up in the next several miles, very slowly. Just before mile marker 7 is a forest of waving bamboo. Wait until just after mile marker 7, at the Kaaiea (“Breathtaking”) Bridge, to pull over and take a closer look at the hand-hewn stone walls. Then turn around to see the vista of bamboo, a photo opportunity that certainly qualifies as “breathtaking.” A GREAT FAMILY HIKE At mile marker 9, there’s a small state wayside area with restrooms, a pavilion, picnic tables, and a barbecue area. The sign says KOOLAU FOREST RESERVE, but the real attraction here is the Waikamoi Ridge Trail , an easy three-quarter-mile loop. The start of the trail is just behind the QUIET TREES AT WORK sign. The well-marked trail meanders through eucalyptus, ferns, and hala trees. MORE GREAT PLUNGES Thirty-foot Puohokamoa Falls spills into an idyllic pool in a fern-filled amphitheater. Park at the bridge at mile marker 11 and take the short walk up the trail. The pool is surrounded by banana trees, colorful heliconias, and sweetsmelling ginger. Bring mosquito repellent. CAN’T-MISS PHOTO OPPORTUNITIES Just past mile marker 12 is the Kaumahina (“Moonrise”) State Wayside Park. Not only is this a good pit stop (restrooms are available here) and a wonderful place for a picnic under the tall eucalyptus trees (with tables and barbecue area), but it’s also a great vista; you can see down

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the rugged coastline all the way to Keanae Peninsula. Just past the park on the ocean side, there’s another scenic turnoff and great photo opportunity. Another mile and a couple of bends in the road, and you’ll enter the Honomanu Valley (“valley of the bird”), with its beautiful bay. To get down to the Honomanu Bay County Beach Park , look for the turnoff on your left, just after mile marker 14, as you begin your ascent up the other side of the valley. The rutted dirt-and-cinder road takes you down to the rocky black-sand beach. There are no facilities here. There are strong rip currents offshore, so swimming is best in the stream inland from the ocean. MAUI’S BOTANICAL WORLD Farther along the winding road, between mile markers 16 and 17, is a cluster of bunkhouses composing the YMCA Camp Keanae. A quarter-mile down is the Keanae Arboretum , where the region’s botany is divided into three parts: native forest; introduced forest; and traditional Hawaiian plants, food, and medicine. You can swim in the pools of Piinaau Stream, or press on along a mile-long trail into Keanae Valley (see “Hiking” in chapter 5). KEANAE PENINSULA The old Hawaiian village of Keanae stands out against the Pacific like a place time forgot. Here, on an old lava flow graced by an 1860 stone church and swaying palms, is one of the last coastal enclaves of native Hawaiians. They still grow taro in patches and pound it into poi, the staple of the old Hawaiian diet; they still pluck opihi (limpet) from tide pools along the jagged coast and cast throw-nets at schools of fish. WAIANAPANAPA STATE PARK At mile marker 32, just on the outskirts of Hana, shiny black-sand Waianapanapa Beach appears like a vivid dream, with bright-green jungle foliage on three sides and cobalt-blue water lapping at its feet. The 120-acre park on an ancient aa lava flow includes sea cliffs, lava tubes, arches, and the beach, plus 12 cabins, tent camping, picnic pavilions, restrooms, showers, drinking water, and hiking trails. If you’re interested in staying here, see chapter 3; also see “Beaches” and “Hiking” in chapter 5.

HANA Green, tropical Hana is a destination all its own, a small coastal village that’s probably what you came to Maui in search of. Here you’ll find a rainforest dotted with cascading waterfalls and sparkling blue pools, skirted by red- and black-sand beaches.

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Beautiful Hana enjoys more than 90 inches of rain a year—more than enough to keep the scenery lush. Banyans, bamboo, breadfruit trees—everything seems larger than life in this small town, especially the flowers, such as wild ginger and plumeria. The last unspoiled Hawaiian town on Maui is, oddly enough, the home of Maui’s first resort, which opened in 1946. Paul Fagan, owner of the San Francisco Seals baseball team, bought an old inn and turned it into the Hotel Hana-Maui, which gave Hana its first taste of tourism. As you enter Hana, the road splits about a half mile past mile marker 33, at the police station. Both roads will take you to Hana, but the lower road, Uakea Road, is more scenic. Just before you get to Hana Bay, you’ll see the old wood-frame Hana District Police Station and Courthouse. Next door is the Hana Museum Cultural Center , on Uakea Road (& 808/248-8622; www.planethawaii.com/hana), open daily from 10am to 4pm (most of the

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time). This small building has an excellent collection of Hawaiian quilts, artifacts, books, and photos. Cater-cornered from the cultural center is the entrance to Hana Bay . You can drive right down to the pier and park. There are restrooms, showers, picnic tables, barbecue areas, and even a snack bar here. To get to the center of town, leave Hana Bay, cross Uakea Road, and drive up Keawa Place; turn left on Hana Highway, and on the corner will be the Hotel Hana-Maui, the once-luxurious hotel established by Paul Fagan in 1946. On the green hills above Hotel Hana-Maui stands a 30-foot-high white cross made of lava rock. Citizens erected the cross in memory of Paul Fagan, who founded the Hana Ranch as well as the hotel, and helped keep the town alive. The hike up to Fagan’s Cross provides a gorgeous view of the Hana coast, especially at sunset. Back on the Hana Highway, just past Hauoli Road, is the majestic Wananalua Congregation Church. It’s on the National Historic Register not only because of its age (it was built in 1838–42 from coral stones), but also because of its location, atop an old Hawaiian heiau. Just past the church is the Hasegawa General Store , a Maui institution that carries oodles of merchandise from soda and fine French wines to fishing line to name-brand clothing, plus everything you need for a picnic or a gourmet meal. If you need gas before heading back, Chevron Service Station sits on the right side of the Hana Highway as you leave town.

OUTDOOR PURSUITS One of the best areas on Maui for ocean activities, Hana also boasts a wealth of nature hikes, remote places to explore on horseback and waterfalls to discover. BEACHES & OCEAN ACTIVITIES

Call Hana-Maui Sea Sports (& 808/248-7711; www.hana-mauiseasports.com) if you’d like to snorkel or kayak, or venture out on your own at our favorite beaches: HANA The waters in the Hana Bay are calm most of the time and great for swimming. There’s excellent snorkeling and diving by the lighthouse. Strong currents can run through here, so don’t venture farther than the lighthouse. See Hana Bay, above, for more details on the facilities and hikes here.

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RED SAND BEACH The Hawaiian name for this beach is Kaihalulu Beach, which means “roaring sea.” The beach is on the ocean side of Kauiki Hill, just south of Hana Bay, in a wild, natural setting on a pocket cove, where the volcanic cinder cone lost its seaward wall to erosion and spilled red cinders everywhere to create the red sands. There are two things you should know about this beach: You have to trespass to get here and nudity is common here (even though it’s illegal—arrests have been made). To reach the beach, put on solid walking shoes and walk south on Uakea Road, past Haoli Street and the Hotel Hana-Maui, to the parking lot for the hotel’s Sea Ranch Cottages. Turn left and cross the open field next to the Hana Community Center. Look for the dirt trail and follow it to the huge ironwood tree, where you turn right (do not go ahead to the old Japanese cemetery). Carefully follow the ever-eroding cinder footpath a short distance along the shoreline, down the narrow cliff trail (do not attempt this if it’s wet). The trail suddenly turns the corner, and into view comes the burntred beach, set off by the turquoise waters, black lava, and vivid green ironwood trees. The lava outcropping protects the bay and makes it safe for swimming. Snorkeling is excellent and there’s a natural whirlpool area on the Hana Bay side of the cove. Stay away from the surge area where the ocean enters the cove. HAMOA BEACH For one of Hana’s best beaches—great for swimming, Boogie Boarding, and sunbathing—continue another half mile down the Haneoo Road loop to Hamoa Beach. There is easy access from the road down to the sandy beach, and facilities include a small restroom and an outdoor shower. The large pavilion and beach accessories are for the guests of the Hotel Hana-Maui. HIKING

Hana is woven with hiking trails along the shoreline, through the rainforest, and up in the mountains. See “Hiking” in chapter 5 for a discussion of hiking in Waianapanapa and up to Fagan’s Cross. Another excellent hike leads you to Piilanihale Heiau and Blue Pool . This easy, 3-mile round-trip takes you to a freshwater, ocean-side waterfall and swimming pool at the halfway point. On the way back, you can tour a tropical botanical garden and see the largest heiau in the state.

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Turn toward the ocean on Ulaino Road, by mile marker 31. Drive down the road to the first stream (about 11⁄ 2 miles). If the stream is flooded, turn around and go back. If you can forge the stream, cross it and park on the right side of the road by the huge breadfruit trees. The trees are part of the 122-acre Kahanu Garden (& 808/248-8912), owned and operated by the National Tropical Botanical Garden (www.ntbg.org), which also has two gardens on Kauai. Open Monday through Friday, 10am to 2pm, admission is $5 for adults and free for children 12 and under, guided tours by reservation. The 122 acres encompass plant collections from the Pacific Islands, but the real draw here is the Piilanihale Heiau. Believed to be the largest in the state, it measures 340 feet by 415 feet and was built in a terrace design not seen anywhere else in Hawaii. You can park your car here and walk down the Jeep road that parallels the Kahanu Gardens. You’ll have to forge two more streams before the road ends at the beach. Cross the rock-and-gravel beach. If it has been dry, you can just walk along the shoreline. If there has been rain, you will need to cross over the big boulders in the stream. Continue walking down the beach to the 100-foot waterfall on your left with its deep freshwater pool, known locally as Blue Pool.

TROPICAL HALEAKALA: OHEO GULCH AT KIPAHULU Also know as the Seven Sacred Pools or just Kipahulu, Oheo Gulch is a beautiful sight. The dazzling series of waterfall pools and cataracts cascading into the sea is so popular that it now has its own roadside parking lot. Even though Oheo is part of Haleakala National Park, you cannot drive here from the summit. To drive to Oheo, head for Hana, some 60 miles from Kahului on the Hana Highway (Hwy. 36). Oheo is about 30 to 50 minutes beyond Hana, along Highway 31. The Highway 31 bridge passes over pools near the ocean; the other pools, plus magnificent 400-foot Waimoku falls, are reachable via an often-muddy but rewarding, hour-long uphill hike (see “Hiking” in chapter 5). Expect showers on the Kipahulu coast. The admission fee is $5 per person or $10 per car. The Kipahulu Ranger Station (& 808/248-7375) is staffed from 9am to 5pm daily. Restrooms are available, but no drinking water. Kipahulu rangers offer safety information, exhibits, books,

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and a variety of walks and hikes year-round; check at the station for current activities. Check with the Haleakala Park rangers before hiking up to or swimming in the pools, and always keep one eye on the water in the streams; the sky can be sunny near the coast, but floodwaters travel 6 miles down from 8,000 acres of Kipahulu Valley and can rise 4 feet in less than 10 minutes.

7 Shops & Galleries aui is a shopaholic’s dream as well as an arts center, with a large M number of resident artists who show their works in dozens of galleries and countless gift shops. Maui is also the queen of specialty products, an agricultural cornucopia that includes Kula onions, upcountry protea, Kaanapali coffee, world-renowned potato chips, and many other tasty treats that are shipped worldwide. As with any popular visitor destination, you’ll have to wade through bad art and mountains of trinkets, particularly in Lahaina and Kihei, where touristy boutiques line the streets between rare pockets of treasures. If you shop in South or West Maui, expect to pay resort prices, clear down to a bottle of Evian or sunscreen. Central Maui is home to some first-rate boutiques. Watch Wailuku, which is poised for a resurgence. The town has its own antiques alleys, the new Sig Zane Designs has brought a delightful infusion of creative energy, and a major promenade/emporium on Main Street is in the works. The Kaahumanu Center, in neighboring Kahului, is becoming more fashionable by the month. Upcountry, Makawao’s boutiques are worth seeking out, despite some attitude and high prices. The charm of shopping on Maui has always rested in the small, independent shops and galleries that crop up in surprising places.

1 Central Maui KAHULUI Kahului’s best shopping is concentrated in two places. Almost all of the shops listed below are at one of the following centers: The once rough-around-the-edges Maui Mall, 70 E. Kaahumanu Ave. (& 808/877-7559), is the talk of Kahului. Newly renovated, it’s now bigger and better, and has retained some of our favorite stores while adding a 12-screen movie megaplex that features current releases as well as art-house films. The mall is still a place of everyday good things, from Long’s Drugs to Star Market

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to Tasaka Guri Guri, the decades-old purveyor of inimitable icy treats, neither ice cream nor shave ice but something in between. Queen Kaahumanu Center, 275 Kaahumanu Ave. (& 808/ 877-3369), 5 minutes from the Kahului Airport on Highway 32, offers more than 100 shops, restaurants, and theaters. Its secondfloor Plantation District offers home furnishings and accessories, fabulous shoes at Native Soles, and gift and accessories shops. Kaahumanu covers all the bases, from the arts and crafts to a Foodland Supermarket and everything in between: a thriving food court; the island’s best beauty supply, Lisa’s Beauty Supply & Salon (& 808/877-6463), and its sister store for cosmetics, Madison Avenue Day Spa and Boutique (& 808/873-0880); mall standards like Sunglass Hut and Radio Shack; Local Motion (surf and beach wear); and standard department stores like Macy’s and Sears. Cost Less Imports This store features household accessories like lauhala, bamboo blinds, grassy floor and window coverings, shojistyle lamps, burlap yardage, baskets, Balinese cushions, Asian imports, and top-of-the-line, made-on-Maui soaps and handicrafts. Japanese folk curtains, called noreng, are among the diverse items you’ll find here; it’s a good source of tropical and Asian home decor. In the Maui Mall. & 808/877-0300.

Maui Hands The selection in this consignment shop/gallery. includes paintings, prints, jewelry, glass marbles, native-wood bowls, and tchotchkes for every budget. This is an ideal stop for made-on-Maui products and crafts of good quality; 90% of what’s sold here was made on the island. The original Maui Hands remains in Makawao at the Courtyard, 3620 Baldwin Ave. (& 808/ 572-5194); another Maui Hands can be found in Paia, at 84 Hana Hwy. (& 808/579-9245). In the Kaahumanu Center. & 808/877-0368. Maui Swap Meet The Maui Swap Meet is a large and popular event. After Thanksgiving and throughout December, the number of booths explodes into the hundreds. The colorful Maui specialties include vegetables from Kula and Keanae, fresh taro, plants, proteas, crafts, household items, homemade ethnic foods, and baked goods. Every Saturday from 7am to noon, vendors spread out their wares in booths and under tarps, in a festival-like atmosphere. Between the cheap Balinese imports and New Age crystals and incense, you may find some vintage John Kelly prints and 1930s collectibles. Admission is 50¢. S. Puunene Ave. (next to the Kahului Post Office). & 808/877-3100.

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Summerhouse Sleek and chic, tiny Summerhouse is big on style: casual and party dresses, separates by Russ Berens, FLAX, Kiko, and Tencel jeans by Signatur—the best. During the holiday season the selection gets dressy and sassy, but it’s a fun browse yearround. We adore the hats, accessories, easy-care clothing, and up-tothe-minute evening dresses that Summerhouse carries in abundance. The high-quality T-shirts are always a cut above. The casual selection is well suited to the island lifestyle. In the Dairy Center, 395 Dairy Rd. & 808/871-1320.

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Down to Earth Natural Foods, 305 Dairy Rd. (& 808/8772661), a health-food staple for many years, has fresh organic produce, a bountiful salad bar, sandwiches and smoothies, vitamins and supplements, fresh-baked goods, chips and snacks, whole grains, and several packed aisles of vegetarian and health foods. Ohana Farmers Market (& 808/871-8347), Kahului Shopping Center, is the place to find a fresh, inexpensive selection of Mauigrown fruit, vegetables, flowers, and plants.

WAILUKU Located at the gateway to Iao Valley, Wailuku is the county seat, the part of Maui where people live and work. Wailuku’s attractive vintage architecture, smattering of antiques shops, and mom-and-pop eateries imbue the town with a down-home charm. The community spirit is slowly attracting new businesses, but Wailuku is still a work in progress. It’s a mixed bag—of course there’s junk, but a stroll along Main and Market streets usually turns up a treasure or two. Bailey House Gift Shop Bailey House offers a thoroughly enjoyable browse through authoritative Hawaiiana, in a museum that’s one of the finest examples of missionary architecture. The shop boasts some remarkable gift items, from Hawaiian music to exquisite woods, traditional Hawaiian games to pareus and books. Prints by the legendary Hawaii artist Madge Tennent, lauhala hats, hand-sewn pheasant hatbands, jams and jellies, and an occasional Hawaiian quilt are some of the treasures to be found here. In the Bailey House Museum, 2375-A Main St. & 808/244-3326.

Bird of Paradise Unique Antiques Owner Joe Myhand loves furniture, old Matson liner menus, blue willow china, kimono for children, and anything nostalgic that happens to be Hawaiian. The furniture in the strongly Hawaiian collection ranges from

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1940s rattan to wicker and old koa. The collection ebbs and flows with his finds, keeping buyers waiting in the wings for Depression glass, California pottery from the 1930s and 1940s, old dinnerware, perfume bottles, vintage aloha shirts, and vintage Hawaiian music on cassettes. 56 N. Market St. & 808/242-7699. Brown-Kobayashi From self-adornment to interior design, graceful living is the theme here. Prices range from a few dollars to the thousands in this 750-square-foot treasure trove. The owners have added a fabulous selection of antique stone garden pieces that mingle quietly with Asian antiques and old and new French, European, and Hawaiian objects. Japanese kimono and obi, Bakelite and Peking glass beads, breathtaking Japanese lacquerware, cricket carriers, and cloisonné are among the delights here. 160-A N. Market St.

& 808/242-0804. Karl Gottling’s shop specializes in Asian antique furniture, but you can also find smaller carvings, precious stones, jewelry, opium weights, and finds in all sizes. On a recent visit, we saw a cabinet with 350-year-old doors, a 17th-century Buddha lending an air of serenity next to a 150-year-old Chinese cabinet, and Ming dynasty ceramics. The prices vary as widely, from carved wooden apples for $15 to a Persian rug for $65,000. 34 N. Market St.

Gottling Ltd.

& 808/244-7779. Old Daze Nineteenth-century Americana and Hawaiian collectibles are nicely wedded in this charming shop. The collection features a modest furniture selection, Hawaiian pictures, 1960s ashtrays, Depression glass, old washboards, and souvenir plates from county fairs. Choices range from hokey to rustic to pleasantly nostalgic. Some recent finds: an 1850s German sideboard, a Don Blanding teapot, Royal Worcester china, and antique kimono. 7 North Market St. (close to Main St.). & 808/249-0014.

Sig Zane Designs Wailuku Whether it’s a T-shirt, golf shirt, pareu, duffel bag, aloha shirt, or muumuu, a Sig Zane design has depth and sizzle. Zane and co-owner Punawai Rice have redefined Hawaiian wear by creating an inimitable style in clothing, textiles, furnishings, bedding, and lifestyle accessories, and this, their Maui store, has proven enormously successful. Zane’s strong, graphic fabrics are made into aloha shirts and women’s wear and used in interiors and furnishings that evoke the gracious Hawaii of an earlier time. 53 Market St. & 808/249-8997.

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EDIBLES

Established in 1941, the Ooka Super Market, 1870 Main St., Wailuku (& 808/244-3931), Maui’s ultimate homegrown supermarket, is a mom-and-pop business that has grown by leaps and bounds but still manages to keep its neighborhood flavor. Ooka sells inexpensive produce, fresh island seafood, certified Angus beef, and Maui specialties such as manju and mochi. You’ll also find one of Maui’s finest and most affordable retail flower selections. Prepared foods are also a hit: bentos and plate lunches, roast chicken and laulau, and specialties from all the islands. Located in the northern section of Wailuku, Takamiya Market, 359 N. Market St. (& 808/244-3404), is much loved by local folks and visitors with adventurous palates. Unpretentious home-cooked foods from East and West are prepared daily and served on plasticfoam plates. From the chilled-fish counter come fresh sashimi and poke, and in the renowned assortment of prepared foods are mounds of shoyu chicken, tender fried squid, roast pork, kalua pork, laulau, Chinese noodles, and fiddlehead ferns. Fresh produce and paper products are also available.

2 West Maui LAHAINA Lahaina’s merchants and art galleries go all out from 7 to 9pm on Friday, when Art Night brings an extra measure of hospitality and community spirit. The Art Night openings are usually marked with live entertainment, refreshments, and a lively street scene. If you’re in Lahaina on the second or last Thursday of the month, stroll by the front lawn of the Baldwin Home, 120 Dickenson St. (at Front St.), for demonstrations of lei-making (you can even buy the results). What was formerly a big, belching pineapple cannery is now a maze of shops and restaurants at the northern end of Lahaina town, known as the Lahaina Cannery Mall, 1221 Honoapiilani Hwy. (& 808/661-5304). Find your way through the T-shirt and sportswear shops to Lahaina Printsellers, home of antique originals, prints, paintings, and wonderful 18th- to 20th-century cartography. Roland’s may surprise you with its selection of footwear, everything from Cole-Haan sophisticates to inexpensive sandals. You’ll find a variety of food choices, from pizza to Greek to Vietnamese, at the recently expanded food court.

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The Lahaina Center, 900 Front St. (& 808/667-9216), is still a work in progress. It’s located north of Lahaina’s most congested strip, where Front Street begins. There’s plenty of free validated parking and easy access to more than 30 shops, a salon, restaurants, a nightclub, and a four-plex movie-theater complex. Among the shopping stops: Banana Republic, the Hilo Hattie Fashion Center (a dizzying emporium of aloha wear), ABC Discount Store, and a dozen other recreational, dining, and entertainment options. The conversion of 10,000 square feet of parking space into the recreation of a traditional Hawaiian village is a welcome touch of Hawaiiana at Lahaina Center. The village, called Hale Kahiko, features three main houses, called hale: a sleeping house; the men’s dining house; and the crafts house. Construction of the houses consumed 10,000 square feet of ohia wood from the island, 20 tons of pili grass, and more than 4 miles of hand-woven coconut sennit for the lashings. Artifacts, weapons, a canoe, and indigenous trees are among the authentic touches in this village, which can be toured privately or with a guide. David Lee Galleries This gallery is devoted to the works of David Lee, who uses natural powder colors to paint on silk. The pigments and technique create a luminous, ethereal quality. 712 Front St.

& 808/667-7740. Gary’s Island Gary’s cranks up the fun factor in aloha wear with this abundant, well-displayed selection of aloha shirts. Lahaina was number 11 in the Gary’s chain of brightly colored resort shops—its first venture outside of California and Las Vegas. We’ve found fantastic hula-girl silk ties here by Tommy Bahama, and some offbeat shirt styles by Toes on the Nose and the usual top-drawer lines, such as Kamehameha, Tori Richard, Reyn’s, Avanti, and Kahala. This tiny but dynamic shop also carries shoes for men and women, from Cole-Haan to gel-soled Sensis. 839-A Front St. & 808/662-0424. Lahaina Arts Society Galleries With its membership of more than 185 Maui artists, the nonprofit Lahaina Arts Society is an excellent community resource. Changing monthly exhibits in the Banyan Tree and Old Jail galleries offer a good look at the island’s artistic well: two-dimensional art, fiber art, ceramics, sculpture, prints, jewelry, and more. In the shade of the humongous banyan tree in the square across from Pioneer Inn, “Art in the Park” fairs are offered every second and fourth weekend of the month. 648 Wharf St.

& 808/661-3228.

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Expanded to include two massage rooms and shower facilities, this is a day spa offering facials and other therapies. It’s a good sign that 95% of the beauty and bath products sold are made on Maui, and that includes Hawaiian Botanical Pikake shower gel; kukui and macadamia-nut oils; Hawaiian potpourris; mud masks with Hawaiian seaweed; and a spate of rejuvenating, cleansing, skin-soothing potions for hair and skin. Aromatherapy body oils and perfumes are popular, as are the handmade soaps and fragrances of torch ginger, plumeria, coconut, tuberose, and sandalwood. Scented candles in coconut shells, inexpensive and fragrant, make great gifts. 505 Front St. & 808/661-1178. Martin Lawrence Galleries The front is garish, with pop art, kinetic sculptures, and bright, carnivalesque glass objects. Toward the back of the gallery, however, there’s a sizable inventory of twodimensional art and some plausible choices for collectors of Keith Haring, Andy Warhol, and other pop artists. The originals, limitededition graphics, and sculptures also include works by Marc Chagall, Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, Roy Lichtenstein, and other noted artists. The focus is pop art and national and international artists. In Lei Spa Maui

Lahaina Market Place, 126 Lahainaluna Rd. & 808/661-1788.

The best of Hawaii can be found here, if not in the striking Tutuvi silk-screened dresses and shirts, then in the delicately patterned shawls and scarves of Maile Andrade that depict Hawaiian scenes and traditions on velvet. Arts, crafts, gifts, and clothing, all made by Hawaii artists, fill this cozy niche of Lahaina in the historic Baldwin House on Front Street. You might find a beautifully made lauhala bag, a colorful muumuu, a Hawaii-themed book, or a pheasant hat lei made by master feather lei makers Mary Lou Kekuewa and Paulette Kahalepuna. The shop is tiny, filled with the colors, fibers, and spirit of Hawaii. Lahaina Cannery Mall, 1221

Na Mea Hawaii

Honoapiilani Hwy. & 808/667-5345.

What a bookstore! Chockablock with used books in stacks, shelves, counters, and aisles, this bookstore is a browser’s dream. More than 25,000 quality used books are lovingly housed in this shop, where owner JoAnn Carroll treats books and customers well. The store is 95% used books and 100% delight. Specialties include Hawaiiana, fiction, mystery, sci-fi, and military history, with substantial selections in cookbooks, children’s books, and philosophy/religion. You could pay as little as $2

The Old Lahaina Book Emporium

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for a quality read, or a whole lot more for that rare first edition. Books on tape, videos, the classics, and old guitar magazines are among the treasures of this two-story emporium. 505 Front St.

& 808/661-1399. This gallery makes a good browse for its selection of Niihau shell jewelry, excellent Hawaiian CDs, Norfolk pine bowls, and Hawaiian quilt kits. Hawaiian quilt patterns sewn in Asia (at least they’re honest about it) are labor-intensive, less expensive, and attractive, although not totally Hawaiian. Hawaiian-quilt-patterned gift wraps and tiles, perfumes and soaps, handcrafted dolls, and koa accessories are of good quality, and the artists, such as Kelly Dunn (Norfolk wood bowls), Jerry Kermode (wood), and Pat Coito (wood), are among the tops in their fields. In the Lahaina Cannery Mall, 1221 Honoapiilani Hwy. & 808/

Totally Hawaiian Gift Gallery

667-2558.

Village Galleries in Lahaina The nearly 30-year-old Village Galleries is the oldest continuously running gallery on Maui, and it’s highly esteemed as one of the few galleries with consistently high standards. Art collectors know this as a respectable showcase for regional artists; the selection of mostly original two- and threedimensional art offers a good look at the quality of work originating on the island. The newer contemporary gallery offers colorful gift items and jewelry. 120 and 180 Dickenson St. & 808/661-4402 or 808/661-5559. Also the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr. & 808/669-1800.

EDIBLES

A longtime Lahaina staple, Down to Earth, 193 Lahainaluna Rd. (& 808/667-2855) is serious about providing tasty food that’s healthy and affordable. Its excellent food bar offers vegetarian lasagna, marinated tofu strips, vegetarian pot-pie, crisp salads, grains, curries, and gorgeous organic produce. Other products include produce, cosmetics, and healthy food staples.

KAANAPALI On a recent trip we were somewhat disappointed with upscale Whalers Village, 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy. (& 808/661-4567). Although it offers everything from whale blubber to Prada and Ferragamo, it is short on local shops and parking at the nearby lot is expensive. The Whale Center of the Pacific museum (see chapter 6) is a unique stop in this mall, but as far as shopping’s concerned, you

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can find most of the items featured here in the shops in Lahaina, where parking is less of a hassle and less expensive. Despite obvious efforts to offer a balance between island-made and designer goods, the chain luxury stores dominate at Whalers Village. Tiffany, Prada, Chanel, Ferragamo, Vuitton, Coach, Dolphin Galleries, The Body Shop, are a few of the more than 60 shops and restaurants that have sprouted in this open-air shopping center. Our favorite shoe store, Sandal Tree, has its third store here (the other two stores are at Hyatt Regency Maui and Grand Wailea Resort in Wailea). Martin & MacArthur, a mainstay of the village, offers a dizzying array of Hawaii crafts. The always wonderful Lahaina Printsellers has a selection of antique prints, maps, paintings, and engravings, including 18th- to 20th-century cartography. You can find award-winning Kimo Bean coffee at a kiosk, an expanded Reyn’s for aloha wear, and Cinnamon Girl, a hit in Honolulu for its matching mother-daughter clothing. The return of Waldenbooks makes it that much easier to pick up the latest bestseller on the way to the beach. Other mainstays: The Eyecatcher has an extensive selection of sunglasses; it’s located just across from the busiest ABC store in the state. The food court offers dine-and-dash goodies, such as Pizza Paradiso and the terrific Japanese fare of Ganso Kawara Soba. Whalers Village is open daily from 9:30am to 10pm. Ki’i Gallery Those who love glass in all forms, from handblown vessels to jewelry, will enjoy a browse through Ki’i. Some of the works are large and lavish, such as the Toland Sand prisms for just under $5,000 and the John Stokes handblown glass. We found Pat Kazi’s work in porcelain and found objects both fantastic and compelling. The gallery is devoted to glass and original paintings and drawings; roughly half of the artists are from Hawaii. Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr. & 808/661-4456.

The Sandal Tree attracts a flock of footwear fanatics who come here from throughout the islands for rubber thongs and Top-Siders, sandals and dressy pumps, athletic shoes and hats, designer footwear, and much more. Sandal Tree also carries a generous selection of Mephisto and Arche comfort sandals, Donald Pliner, Anne Klein, Charles Jourdan, and beach wear and casual footwear for all tastes. Accessories range from fashionable knapsacks to avant-garde geometrical handbags—for town and country, day and evening, kids, women, and men. Prices are realistic, too. Sandal Tree

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In Whalers Village, 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy. & 808/667-5330. Also in the Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea; and in the Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr.

KAHANA/NAPILI/HONOKOWAI Those driving north of Kaanapali toward Kapalua will notice the Honokowai Marketplace on Lower Honoapiilani Road, only minutes before the Kapalua Airport. There are restaurants and coffee shops, a dry cleaner, the flagship Star Market, Hula Scoops for ice cream, a gas station, a copy shop, a few clothing stores, and the sprawling Hawaiian Interiorz. Nearby Kahana Gateway is an unimpressive mall built to serve the condominium community that has sprawled along the coastline between Honokowai and Kapalua. If you need women’s swimsuits, however, Rainbow Beach Swimwear is a find. It carries a selection of suits at lower-than-resort prices, slashed even further during the frequent sales. Hutton’s Fine Jewelry offers high-end jewelry from designers around the country (lots of platinum and diamonds). Tahitian black pearls and jade (some hundreds of years old, all certified) are among Hutton’s specialties.

KAPALUA Honolua Store Walk on the old wood floors peppered with holes from golf shoes and find your everyday essentials: bottled water, stationery, mailing tape, jackets, chips, wine, soft drinks, paper products, and fresh fruit and produce. With picnic tables on the veranda and a take-out counter offering deli items—more than a dozen types of sandwiches, salads, and budget-friendly breakfasts—there are always long lines of customers. Golfers and surfers love to come here for the morning paper and coffee. 502 Office Rd. (next to the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua). & 808/669-6128.

Shops have come and gone in this small, exclusive, and once-chic shopping center; the closing of elegant Mandalay is a big loss. The Elizabeth Dole Gallery has loads of Dale Chihuly studio glass, fabulous and expensive, a dramatic counterpoint to South Seas Trading Post and its exotic artifacts such as New Guinea masks, Balinese beads, tribal jewelry, lizard-skin drums, and coconut-shell carvings. Otherwise, it’s slim pickings for shoppers in Kapalua, where logo wear, jewelry, and real-estate offices are the norm and the fabulous Sansei sushi bar reigns. Kapalua Bay

Kapalua Shops

Hotel and Villas. & 808/669-1029.

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Village Galleries Maui’s finest exhibit their works here and in the other two Village Galleries in Lahaina. Translucent, delicately turned bowls of Norfolk pine gleam in the light, and George Allan, Betty Hay Freeland, and Pamela Andelin are included in the pantheon of respected artists represented in the tiny gallery. Watercolors, oils, sculptures, handblown glass, Niihau shell leis, jewelry, and other media are represented. A monthly program features demonstrations and free hands-on workshops. In the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr. & 808/669-1800.

3 South Maui KIHEI Kihei is one long stretch of strip malls. Most of the shopping here is concentrated in the Azeka Place Shopping Center on South Kihei Road. Fast foods abound at Azeka, as do tourist-oriented clothing shops like Crazy Shirts. Across the street, Azeka Place II houses several prominent attractions, including General Nutrition Center, the Coffee Store, and a cluster of specialty shops with everything from children’s clothes to shoes, sunglasses, beauty services, and swimwear. Also on South Kihei Road is the Kukui Mall, with movie theaters, Waldenbooks, and Whaler’s General Store. Hawaiian Moons Natural Foods Hawaiian Moons is a healthfood store, and a great one, but it’s also a minisupermarket with one of the best selections of Maui products on the island. The Mexican tortillas are made on Maui (and good!), and much of the produce here, such as organic vine-ripened tomatoes and organic onions, is grown in the fertile upcountry soil of Kula. There’s also locally grown organic coffee, gourmet salsas, Maui shiitake mushrooms, organic lemongrass and okra, Maui Crunch bread, free-range Big Island turkeys and chickens (no antibiotics or artificial nasties), and fresh Maui juices. Cosmetics are top-of-the-line: a staggering selection of sunblock, fragrant floral oils, and Island Essence made-onMaui mango-coconut and vanilla-papaya lotions, the ultimate in body pampering. The salad bar is one of the most popular food stops on the coast. 2411 S. Kihei Rd. & 808/875-4356. Pua’s Lei Stand Surprise—fresh plumeria lei in hot Kihei! Located at the far mauka (mountainside) end of the shopping village, Pua’s Lei Stand is an oasis of fragrance, freshness, and the spirit of Hawaii. You’ll see lavish wiliwili and seed lei, hula implements,

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Hawaiian-printed flaxseed eye pillows, Hawaiian angels made from fibers found in Kihei, and all manner of made-on-Maui gems. The hard-to-find Maui Herbal soaps are generous blocks in fabulous fragrances of pikake, tuberose, guavaberry, tropical sea, and—our favorite—plumeria. These soaps lather richly and contain pure ingredients; their simple packaging belies the fact that they are of top quality, and not widely available. In Kihei Kalama Village, 1941 S. Kihei Rd. No phone.

There are treasures to be found in this small cluster of tables and booths where Maui artists display their work. Ceramics, raku, sculpture, glass, koa-wood books and photo albums, jewelry, soaps, handmade paper, and fiber-art accessories make great gifts to go. Watch for Maui Metal handcrafted journals, aluminum books with designs of hula girls, palms, fish, and sea horses. Tuna Luna also has a new booth in the back pavilion. In Kihei Kalama Village,

Tuna Luna

1941 S. Kihei Rd. & 808/874-9482.

WAILEA CY Maui Women who like washable, flowing clothing in silks, rayons, and natural fibers will love this shop, formerly the popular Manikin in Kahului. If you don’t find what you want on the racks of simple bias-cut designs, you can have it made from the bolts of stupendous fabrics lining the shop. Except for a few hand-painted silks, everything in the shop is washable. In The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr, A-30. & 808/891-0782.

Grand Wailea Shops The sprawling Grand Wailea Resort is known for its long arcade of shops and galleries tailored to hefty pocketbooks. However, gift items in all price ranges can be found at Lahaina Printsellers (for old maps and prints), Dolphin Galleries, H. F. Wichman, Sandal Tree, and Napua Gallery, which houses the private collection of the resort owner. Ki’i Gallery is luminous with studio glass and exquisitely turned woods, and Sandal Tree (p. 162) raises the footwear bar. At Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr.

& 808/875-1234. The Shops at Wailea This is the big shopping boost that resortgoers have been awaiting for years. Chains still rule (The Gap, Louis Vuitton, Banana Republic, Tiffany, Crazy Shirts, Honolua Surf Co.), but there is still fertile ground for the inveterate shopper in the nearly 60 shops in the complex. Martin & MacArthur (furniture and gift gallery; see Whalers Village above) has landed in

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Wailea as part of a retail mix that is similar to Whalers Village. The high-end resort shops sell expensive souvenirs, gifts, clothing, and accessories for a life of perpetual vacations. 3750 Wailea Alanui. & 808/ 891-6770.

4 Upcountry Maui MAKAWAO Besides being a shopper’s paradise, Makawao is the home of the island’s most prominent arts organization, the Hui No’eau Visual Arts Center, 2841 Baldwin Ave. (& 808/572-6560). The center is located on a sprawling 9-acre estate called Kaluanui. A legacy of Maui’s prominent kamaaina (old-timers) Harry and Ethel Baldwin, the estate became an arts center in 1976. Visiting artists offer lectures, classes, and demonstrations, all at reasonable prices, in basketry, jewelry making, ceramics, painting, and other media. Classes on Hawaiian art, culture, and history are also available. Call ahead for schedules and details. The exhibits here include both contemporary and traditional art from established and emerging artists. The gift shop, featuring many one-of-a-kind works by local artists and artisans, is worth a stop. Hours are Monday through Saturday from 10am to 4pm. Collections This long-time Makawao attraction is one of our favorite Makawao stops, full of gift items and spirited clothing reflecting the ease and color of island living. Its selection of sportswear, soaps, jewelry, candles, and tasteful, marvelous miscellany reflects good sense and style. Dresses, separates, home and bath accessories, sweaters, and a shop full of good things make this a Makawao must. 3677 Baldwin Ave. & 808/572-0781. Cuckoo for Coconuts The owner’s quirky sense of humor pervades every inch of this tiny shop, which is brimming with vintage collectibles, gag gifts, silly coconuts, 1960s and ’70s aloha wear, tutus, sequined dresses, vintage wedding gowns, and all sorts of oddities. Vintage aloha wear comes and goes, and gets grabbed up fast. New items include crazy sunglasses, colored wigs, tie-dyes, and party hats. 1158 Makawao Ave. & 808/573-6887. Gallery Maui Most of the works in this cozy gallery are by Maui artists, and the quality is outstanding. About 30 artists are represented: Wayne Omura and his Norfolk pine bowls, Pamela Hayes’s watercolors, Martha Vockrodt and her wonderful paintings, a

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stunning Steve Hynson dresser of curly koa and ebony. The twoand three-dimensional original works reflect the high standards of gallery owners Deborah and Robert Zaleski (a painter), who have just added to their roster the talented ceramic artist David Stabley, a two-time American Craft Council juror. 3643-A Baldwin Ave. & 808/ 572-8092.

The selection in this tiny boutique is eclectic and always changing: One day it’s St. John’s Wort body lotion and mesh T-shirts in a dragon motif, the next it’s Provence soaps and antique lapis jewelry. We’ve seen everything from hair scrunchies to handmade crocheted bags from New York, collectible bottles, toys, shawls, and Mexican hammered-tin candleholders. The prices are reasonable, the service is friendly, and it’s more homey than glammy, and not as self-conscious as some of the other local boutiques. 3621 Baldwin Ave. & 808/572-0249. Holiday & Co. Attractive women’s clothing in natural fibers hangs from racks, while jewelry to go with it beckons from the counter. Recent finds include elegant fiber evening bags, luxurious bath gels, easygoing dresses and separates, Dansko clogs, shawls, shoes, soaps, aloha shirts, books, picture frames, and jewelry. Gecko Trading Co. Boutique

3681 Baldwin Ave. & 808/572-1470.

Hot Island Glassblowing Studio & Gallery You can watch the artist transform molten glass into works of art and utility in this studio in Makawao’s Courtyard, where an award-winning family of glassblowers built its own furnaces. It’s fascinating to watch the shapes emerge from glass melted at 2,300°F (1,260°C). The colorful works displayed range from small paperweights to large vessels. Four to five artists participate in the demonstrations, which begin when the furnace is heated, about half an hour before the studio opens at 9am. 3620 Baldwin Ave. & 808/572-4527. Hurricane This boutique carries clothing, gifts, accessories, and books that are two steps ahead of the competition. Tommy Bahama aloha shirts and aloha print dresses; Sigrid Olsen’s knitted shells, cardigans, and extraordinary silk tank dresses; hats; art by local artists; a notable selection of fragrances for men and women; and hard-to-find, eccentric books and home accessories are part of the Hurricane appeal. 3639 Baldwin Ave. & 808/572-5076. The Mercantile The jewelry, home accessories, dinnerware, Italian linens, plantation-style furniture, and clothing here are a salute

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to the good life. The exquisite bedding, rugs, and furniture include hand-carved armoires, down-filled furniture and slipcovers, and a large selection of Kiehl’s products. The clothing—comfortable cottons and upscale European linens—is for men and women, as are the soaps, which include Maui Herbal Soap products and some unusual finds from France. 3673 Baldwin Ave. & 808/572-1407. Viewpoints Gallery Maui’s only fine-arts cooperative showcases the work of 20 established artists in an airy, attractive gallery located in a restored theater with a courtyard, glassblowing studio, and restaurants. The gallery features two-dimensional art, jewelry, fiber art, stained glass, paper, sculpture, and other media. This is a fine example of what can happen in a collectively supportive artistic environment. 3620 Baldwin Ave. & 808/572-5979. EDIBLES

Working folks in Makawao pick up spaghetti, lasagna, sandwiches, salads, and wide-ranging specials from the Rodeo General Store, 3661 Baldwin Ave. (& 808/572-7841). At the far end of the store is a superior wine selection housed in a temperature-controlled cave. Down to Earth Natural Foods, 1169 Makawao Ave. (& 808/ 572-1488), always has fresh salads and sandwiches, a full section of organic produce, bulk grains, beauty aids, herbs, juices, snacks, tofu, seaweed, soy products, and aisles of vegetarian and health foods. In the more than 6 decades that the T. Komoda Store and Bakery, 3674 Baldwin Ave. (& 808/572-7261), has spent in this spot, untold numbers have creaked over the wooden floors to pick up Komoda’s famous cream puffs. Old-timers know to come early, or they’ll be sold out. If you’re too late for cream puffs, you’ll still have cinnamon rolls, doughnuts, pies, chocolate cake, poi, macadamianut candies and cookies, and local fruit to choose from.

FRESH FLOWERS IN KULA (AT THE BASE OF HALEAKALA NATIONAL PARK) Proteas are a Maui trademark and an abundant crop on Haleakala’s rich volcanic slopes. They travel well, dry beautifully, and can be shipped worldwide. Among Maui’s most prominent sources is Sunrise Protea (& 808/876-0200; www.sunriseprotea.com), in Kula. Freshly cut flowers arrive from the fields on Tuesday and Friday afternoons. You can order individual blooms, baskets, arrangements, or wreaths for shipping all over the world.

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5 East Maui PAIA Biasa Rose Boutique You’ll find unusual gift items and clothing with a tropical flair: capri pants in bark cloth, floating plumeria candles, retro fabrics, dinnerware, handbags and accessories, and stylish vintage-inspired clothes for kids. If the aloha shirts don’t get you, the candles and handbags will. You can also custom-order clothing from a selection of washable rayons. 104 Hana Hwy. & 808/ 579-8602.

Clothing and accessories made of hemp, a sturdy, ecofriendly, and sensible fiber, are finally making their way into the mainstream. The Hemp House has as complete a selection as you can expect to see in Hawaii, with “denim” hemp jeans, lightweight linenlike trousers, dresses, shirts, and a full range of sensible, easycare wear. 16 Baldwin Ave. & 808/579-8880. Maui Crafts Guild The old wooden storefront at the gateway to Paia houses crafts of high quality and in all price ranges. Artistowned and -operated, the guild claims 25 members who live and work on Maui. Basketry, hand-painted fabrics, jewelry, beadwork, traditional Hawaiian stone work, pressed flowers, fused glass, stained glass, copper sculpture, banana bark paintings, pottery of all styles, and hundreds of other items are displayed. Upstairs, sculptor Arthur Dennis Williams displays his breathtaking work in wood, bronze, and stone. Everything can be shipped. Aloha Bead Co. (& 808/579-9709), in the back of the gallery, is a treasure trove for beadworkers. 43 Hana Hwy. & 808/579-9697. Moonbow Tropics If you’re looking for a tasteful aloha shirt, go to Moonbow. The selection consists of a few carefully culled racks of the top labels in aloha wear, in a variety of fabrics. Silk pants, silk shorts, vintage print neckwear, and an upgraded women’s selection hang on neat, colorful racks. The jewelry pieces, ranging from tanzanite to topaz, rubies and moonstones, are mounted in unique settings made on-site. 36 Baldwin Ave. & 808/579-8592. Hemp House

HANA Hana Coast Gallery This gallery is one main reason to go to Hana. Tucked away in the posh hideaway hotel, the gallery is known for its high level of curatorship and commitment to the

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cultural art of Hawaii. Except for a section of European and Asian masters (Renoir, Japanese woodblock prints), the 3,000-square-foot gallery is devoted entirely to Hawaii artists. Dozens of wellestablished local artists display their sculptures, paintings, prints, feather work, stonework, an expanded collection of koa-wood furniture, and carvings. Connoisseurs of hand-turned bowls will find the crème de la crème of the genre here: J. Kelly Dunn, Ron Kent, Todd Campbell, Ed Perrira, and Gary Stevens. You won’t find a better selection elsewhere that exists under one roof. The award-winning gallery has won accolades from the top travel and arts magazines in the country. In the Hotel Hana-Maui. & 808/248-8636. Hasegawa General Store Established in 1910, immortalized in song since 1961, burned to the ground in 1990, and back in business in 1991, this legendary store is indefatigable and more colorful than ever in its fourth generation in business. The aisles are choked with merchandise: coffee specially roasted and blended for the store, Ono Farms organic dried fruit, fishing equipment, every tape and CD that mentions Hana, the best books on Hana to be found, T-shirts, beach and garden essentials, baseball caps, film, baby food, napkins, and other necessities. Hana Hwy., in Hana. & 808/248-8231.

8 Maui After Dark entered in the $32 million Maui Arts and Cultural Center in C Kahului ( 808/242-7469; www.mauiarts.org), the performing

&

arts are alive and well on this island. The MACC remains the island’s most prestigious entertainment venue, a first-class center for the visual and performing arts. Bonnie Raitt has performed here, as have Pearl Jam, Tony Bennett, the American Indian Dance Theatre, the Maui Symphony Orchestra, and more, not to mention the finest in local and Hawaiian talent. The center includes a visualarts gallery, an outdoor amphitheater, offices, rehearsal space, a 300seat theater for experimental performances, and a 1,200-seat main theater. Check the Maui News for what’s going on during your visit. People are still agog over ’Ulalena, an extraordinary production that tells the story of Hawaii in chant, song, original music, acrobatics, and dance, using state-of-the-art technology and some of the most creative staging to be seen in Hawaii. A local and international cast performs this $9.5 million production at the comfy Maui Myth & Magic Theatre in Lahaina (see section 1 below).

IN SEARCH OF HAWAIIAN, JAWAIIAN & MORE Nightlife options on this island are limited. Revelers generally head for Casanova in Makawao and Maui Brews in Lahaina. The major hotels generally have lobby lounges offering Hawaiian music, soft jazz, or hula shows beginning at sunset. If Hapa, Willie K., Amy Gilliom, or the soloist Keali’i Reichel are playing anywhere on their native island, don’t miss them; they’re among the finest Hawaiian musicians around today. Most clubs with dance floors play a combination of Hawaiian and reggae, called Jawaiian, with a heated-up rhythm that young dancers love.

1 West Maui: Lahaina Maui Brews, 900 Front St. (& 808/667-7794), draws the latenight crowd to its corner of the Lahaina Center with swing, salsa, reggae, and jams—either live or with a DJ every night. The

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Moments It Begins with Sunset . . . Nightlife in Maui begins at sunset, when all eyes turn westward. Sunset viewers seem to bond in the mutual enjoyment of a natural spectacle. And what better way to take it all in than over cocktails? Along South and West Maui, our favorite sunset watering holes begin toward the north with The Bay Club at Kapalua (& 808/669-5656), where a pianist plays nightly. In Kaanapali, park in Whalers Village and head for Leilani’s (& 808/661-4495) or Hula Grill (& 808/667-6636), next to each other on the beach. Both have busy, upbeat bars and tables bordering the sand. Leilani’s has live music daily from 3:30 to 6pm, while at Hula Grill the happy hour starts at 3pm, live music at 6pm, and hula at 8pm. In Lahaina, if you love loud rock, head for Cheeseburger in Paradise (& 808/661-4855). A few doors away, the Lahaina Fish Company (& 808/661-3472) and Kimo’s (& 808/661-4811) are magnets all day long and especially at sunset, when their open decks fill up with revelers. These three restaurants occupy Front Street between Lahainaluna Road and Papalaua Street. At the southern end of Lahaina, in the 505 Front Street complex, Pacific’o (& 808/667-4341) is a solid hit, with a raised bar, seating on the ocean, and a backdrop of Lanai

nightclub opens at 9pm and closes at 2am. Depending on the entertainment, sometimes there’s a cover charge after 9pm; generally if there is one it’s $5. For recorded information on entertainment (which changes, so it’s a good idea to call), call & 808/669-2739; www.mauibrews.com. At Longhi’s (& 808/667-2288), live music spills out into the streets from 9:30pm on weekends (with a cover charge of $5). It’s usually salsa or jazz, but call ahead to confirm. Cheeseburger in Paradise (& 808/661-4855) features loud, live tropical rock nightly from 4:30 to 11pm (no cover charge).

A NIGHT TO REMEMBER: LUAU, MAUI STYLE Most of the larger hotels in Maui’s major resorts offer luaus on a regular basis. You’ll pay about $65 to attend one. Don’t expect it to be

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across the channel. A few steps away, sister restaurant I’o has an appetizer menu and a techno-curved bar that will wow you as much as the drop-dead-gorgeous view. Moving south toward Wailea, in Maalaea, Buzz’s Wharf (& 808/244-5426) is a formula restaurant with a superb ocean view. In Wailea, the restaurants at the new Shops at Wailea, including the highly successful Tommy Bahama (& 808/ 875-9983), are a noteworthy addition to the beachfront retail and dining scene. Ferraro’s and Pacific Grill (& 808/ 874-8000), both at the neighboring Four Seasons Resort Wailea, have great sunset views to go with their Italian and Pacific Rim menus. In Makena resort farther south, you can’t beat the Maui Prince’s Molokini Lounge (& 808/874-1111), with its casual elegance and unequaled view of Molokini islet on the ocean side. An appetizer menu is served from 5 to 9:30pm nightly, and live Hawaiian entertainment runs nightly from 6 to 10:30pm. An upcountry sunset view is a great way to end the day if you don’t mind the drive. Kula Lodge (& 808/878-2517) has a phenomenal view that takes in central Maui, the West Maui Mountains, and the coastline. They serve an appetizeronly menu from 3:30 to 5pm.

a homegrown affair prepared in the traditional Hawaiian way. However, even some commercial luaus capture the romance and spirit of the luau with quality food and entertainment. Maui’s best luau is indisputably the nightly Old Lahaina Luau (& 800/248-5828 or 808/667-1998; www.oldlahainaluau.com). On its 1-acre site just ocean side of the Lahaina Cannery at 1251 Front St., the Old Lahaina Luau maintains its high standards in food and entertainment. Seating is provided on lauhala mats for those who wish to dine as the traditional Hawaiians did, but there are tables for everyone else. There’s no fire dancing in the program (for that, go to the Feast at Lele; p. 82). The luau begins at sunset and features Tahitian and Hawaiian entertainment, including various forms of hula and an intelligent narrative on the dance’s rocky course of survival into modern times.

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The entertainment is riveting, even for jaded locals. The food is as much Pacific Rim as authentically Hawaiian: imu-roasted kalua pig, baked mahimahi in Maui onion cream sauce, guava chicken, teriyaki sirloin steak, lomi salmon, poi, dried fish, poke, Hawaiian sweet potato, sautéed vegetables, seafood salad, and taro leaves with coconut milk. The cost is $79 adults, $49 children (plus tax).

’ULALENA: HULA, MYTH & MODERN DANCE The highly polished ’Ulalena, staged in the Maui Myth and Magic Theatre, 878 Front St. (& 877/688-4800 or 808/661-9913; www. ulalena.com), is the talk of the town, a riveting production that weaves Hawaiian mythology with drama, dance, and state-of-the-art multimedia capabilities in a brand-new, multimillion-dollar theater. A local and international cast performs Polynesian dance, original music, acrobatics, and chant. Dancers come down the aisles, drummers and musicians play in surprising corners, and mind-boggling stage and lighting effects draw the audience in. The effects of the modern choreography and traditional hula, a fusion of genres, are surprisingly evocative and emotional. Performances are Tuesday at 6 and 8:30pm, and Wednesday to Saturday at 6pm only. Tickets are $48 to $58 for adults and $28 to $38 for children ages 3 to 10.

2 Upcountry Maui Upcountry in Makawao, the party never ends at Casanova, 1188 Makawao Ave. (& 808/572-0220), the popular Italian ristorante where the good times roll with the pasta. DJs spin on Wednesday (ladies’ night), but on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, live entertainment draws crowds. Entertainment starts at 9:45pm and continues to 1:30am. Expect good blues, rock-and-roll, reggae, jazz, Hawaiian, and the top names in local and visiting entertainment. Elvin Bishop, the local duo Hapa, Los Lobos, and many others have filled Casanova’s stage. The cover is usually $5. Come Sunday afternoons, 3 to 6pm, for excellent live jazz. In the unlikely location of Paia, Moanai Bakery & Café (71 Baldwin Ave, & 808/579-9999), not only has some of the best and most innovative cuisine around, but recently it has added live music: vintage Hawaiian from 6:30 to 9pm on Wednesday; smooth jazz and hot blues on from 6:30 to 9pm on Friday; and flamingo guitar and gypsy violin from 6 to 9pm on Sunday. There’s no cover.

Index See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes below.

GENERAL INDEX A dmission Day, 15 Ahihi-Kinau Natural Preserve, 115 Airlines, 20–22, 32 Aloha Classic World Wavesailing Championship, 16 Aloha Festivals, 15 American Automobile Association (AAA), 33 American Express, 26 Annual Lei Day Celebration, 14 Annual Ritz-Carlton Kapalua Celebration of the Arts, 14 Art Maui 2004, 13–14 A Taste of Lahaina, 15–16 ATMs (automated-teller machines), 10 B ailey House Museum, 129–130 Baldwin Home Museum, 132 Bamboo Forest, 122 Banyan Tree, 132 Beaches, 108–112 Big Beach (Oneloa Beach), 111 Biking, 126–127 Black Rock, 108, 115 Blue Pool, 151, 152 Boating and sailing, 112–113 The Brig Carthaginian, 132–133 Buddha Day, 14 C alendar of events, 13–17 Car rentals, 25–26 Central Maui, 1 accommodations, 38–39 restaurants, 78–81 shopping, 154–158 sights and attractions, 129–131 Chinese New Year, 13 Credit cards, 11, 31 Cruises snorkeling, to Molokini, 115–116 whale-watching, 119

Currency and currency exchange, 31 Customs regulations, 30–31

D entists, 26 Disabilities, travelers with, 17–18 Doctors, 27 Driver’s licenses, foreign, 29 E ast Maui, 8 accommodations, 70–73 beaches, 111–112 restaurants, 103–107 shopping, 169–170 sights and attractions, 143–153 East Maui Taro Festival, 14 Electricity, 33 Embassies and consulates, 33–34 Emergencies, 27, 34 Entry requirements, 28–30

F agan’s Cross, 150 Families with children, 19–20 Fax facilities, 36 Festival of Art & Flowers, 16 Festival of Lights, 16 Festivals and special events, 13–17 First Light 2004, 17 Fishing, 117 Foreign visitors, 28–37 G asoline, 34 Gay and lesbian travelers, 18–19 Golf, 13, 124–126 H aiku, 8, 145 accommodations, 71–72 Haleakala Crater Road (Highway 378), 141

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Haleakala National Park, 121–122, 126–127, 139–142 Haleakala Summit, 140 Haleakala Visitor Center, 140, 142 Halekii and Pihanakalani Heiau, 136 Haliimaile accommodations, 66–68 restaurants, 99–101 Halloween in Lahaina, 16 Hamoa Beach, 111–112, 151 Hana, 9 accommodations, 73–77 outdoor activities, 150–152 restaurant, 107 shopping, 169–170 sights and attractions, 148–150 Hana Bay, 150 Hana Highway, 9 Hana Museum Cultural Center, 149–150 Hana-Waianapanapa Coast Trail, 123 Hasegawa General Store, 150, 170 Hawaiian Slack-Key Guitar Festival, 15 Hawaii International Film Festival, 16 Hawaii Nature Center, 131 Hawaii State Windsurf Championship, 15 Health insurance, 17 Helicopter rides, 130 High season, 11 Highway 378 (Haleakala Crater Road), 141 Hiking, 120–123, 139, 141, 150–152 Holidays, 12–13 Honokowai, 5, 163 accommodations, 47–53 restaurants, 90–91 Honolua Bay, 117, 136 Honomanu Bay County Beach Park, 148 Hookipa Beach, 117, 119 Hookipa Beach Park, 111, 144–145 Horseback riding, 127 Hospitals, 27 Huelo, 8, 146 accommodations, 72–73 Hula Bowl Football All-Star Classic, 13

Iao Needle, 131 Iao Valley, 131

Iao Valley Botanic Garden, 131 Iao Valley State Park, 131 In Celebration of Canoes, 14 Insurance, 31 International visitors, 28–37

K aaiea Bridge, 147 Kaanapali, 4 accommodations, 43–47 restaurants, 88–90 shopping, 161–163 Kaanapali Beach, 108–109 Kahakuloa, 136 Kahana, 5 accommodations, 47–53 restaurants, 90–91 Kahanu Garden, 152 Kahekili Highway, 135–136 Kahului, 1, 129 accommodations, 38 shopping, 154–156 Kahului Airport, 20, 21 Kalahaku Overlook, 141–142 Kaloa Point Trail, 121–122 Kamaole III Beach Park, 109–110, 115 Kanaha, 119 Kanaha Wildlife Sanctuary, 129 Kapalua, 5 accommodations, 53–54 restaurants, 91–93 shopping, 163–164 Kapalua Beach, 109, 115 Kapalua–West Maui Airport, 21 Kapalua Wine and Food Festival, 15 Kaulanapueo Church, 146 Kaumahina State Wayside Park, 147–148 Kayaking, 113 Kealia Pond National Wildlife Preserve, 129, 137 Keanae Arboretum, 148 Keanae Peninsula, 148 Keawali Congregational Church, 138 Kepaniwai Heritage Garden, 131 Kihei, 6, 119 accommodations, 55–61 restaurants, 93–96 shopping, 164–165 sights and attractions, 137–138 King Kamehameha Celebration, 15 Kipahulu, 121, 140, 152–153

GENERAL INDEX Koolau Forest Reserve, 146–147 Kuau, accommodations, 70–71 Kula, 7–8, 168 accommodations, 68–70 restaurants, 101–103 Kula Botanical Garden, 142

L ahaina, 4 accommodations, 39–43 nightlife, 171–174 shopping, 158–161 sights and attractions, 132–136 Lahaina Harbor, 117 Lahaina Jodo Mission, 133 La Pérouse Monument, 139 Leleiwi Overlook, 141 Little Beach, 111

M aalaea, 6, 117 restaurants, 93–96 Mahinahina, 5 Makahiku Falls, 122 Makawao, 7 accommodations, 66–68 restaurants, 100–101 shopping, 166–168 Makawao Parade and Rodeo, 15 Makena, 6–7 accommodations, 66 restaurant, 99 sights and attractions, 138–139 Makena Beach (Maluaka Beach), 110 Makena Landing, 138 Maliko Bay, 145 Maliko Gulch, 145 Maluaka Beach (Makena Beach), 110 Maluuluolele Park, 133 Masters’ Reading Room, 132 Maui County Fair, 16 Maui Film Festival, 15 Maui Invitational Basketball Tournament, 16 Maui Marathon, 16 Maui Ocean Center, 137 Maui Tropical Plantation, 130 Medical insurance, 17 Medical requirements for entry, 29 Mokuleia Bay, 136 Molokini, 114–116, 119 Money matters, 10–11, 31

177

N apili, 5 accommodations, 47–53 restaurants, 90–91 Nightlife, 171–174

O cean kayaking, 113 Off seasons, 11 Oheo Gulch, 152–153 Ohukai Park, 119 Old-Fashioned Holiday Celebration, 16–17 Olinda, accommodations, 66–68 Olowalu, 115 Oneloa Beach (Big Beach), 111 Outdoor activities, 150–152 Outrigger Canoe Season, 14 P ackage tours, 22–24 Paia, 8, 119, 143–144 restaurants, 103–105 shopping, 169 Passports, 29–30 Petrol, 34 PGA Kapalua Mercedes Championship, 13 Pic-nics, 144 Piilanihale Heiau, 151, 152 Polipoli Loop, 122–123 Polipoli Springs National Recreation Area, 122 Post offices, 27 Pukalani, restaurants, 100–101 Puohokamoa Falls, 147 Puu Ulaula Overlook (Red Hill), 142 R ed Sand Beach, 151 Run to the Sun, 14 S afety, 34–35 Sailing, 112–113 Scuba diving, 113–114 Seasons, 11 Seniors, 19 Senior Skins Tournament, 13 Seven Sacred Pools, 152 Shopping, 154–170

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Shuttles, 26 Sights and attractions, 129–153 Skyline Trail, 122 Snorkeling, 114–116 South Maui, 5 accommodations, 55–66 beaches, 109–111 golf, 125–126 restaurants, 93–99 shopping, 164–166 sights and attractions, 137–139 Special events and festivals, 13–17 Sportfishing, 117 Surfing, 117

Taxes, 35 Taxis, 26 Tedeschi Vineyards and Winery, 142–143 Telephone directories, 36 Telephone system, 35–36 Tennis, 127–128 That Ulupalakua Thing! Maui County Agricultural Trade Show and Sampling, 14 Tipping, 36–37 Transportation, 24–26 Traveler’s checks, 10–11 Traveling to Maui, 20–22 to and around the United States, 32–33 Travel insurance, 17 Trip-cancellation insurance, 17 Twin Falls, 146 U lalena, 174 Ulua Beach, 110, 115 Ulupalakua Ranch, 142–143 Upcountry Maui, 7 accommodations, 66–70 golf, 126 nightlife, 174 restaurants, 99–103 shopping, 166–168 sights and attractions, 139–143 V isas, 28–29 Visitor information, 9–10

W aianapanapa State Park, 111, 148 Waihee Ridge, 123 Waikamoi Cloud Forest Hike, 121 Waikamoi Ridge Trail, 147 Waikapu, 129–131 Wailea, 6, 138 accommodations, 62–66 restaurants, 96–99 shopping, 165–166 Wailea Beach, 110 Wailuku, 1, 4 accommodations, 38–39 shopping, 156–158 sights and attractions, 129–131 Waimoku Falls, 122 Wananalua Congregation Church, 150 Watersports, 112–120 Weather, 12, 27 Websites, Hawaii-specific, 24 West Maui, 4 accommodations, 39–54 beaches, 108–109 golf, 124–125 nightlife, 171–174 restaurants, 82–93 shopping, 158–164 sights and attractions, 132–136 Whale Center of the Pacific, 135 Whalefest Week, 13 Whalers Village, 134–135 Whale-watching, 11, 112, 116, 118–119, 138 Windsurfing, 15, 16, 119–120, 137, 144–145 Wo Hing Temple, 133

ACCOMMODATIONS Ann and Bob Babson’s Bed & Breakfast and Sunset Cottage, 58–59 Banyan Tree House, 67–68 Best Western Pioneer Inn, 39 Ekena, 74 The Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 62 Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, 62–63 Gildersleeve’s Vacation Rentals, 69 Grand Wailea Resort Hotel & Spa, 64 Guest House, 43

R E S TA U R A N T I N D E X Hale Ho’okipa Inn Makawao, 68 Hale Kai, 48 Hale Maui Apartment Hotel, 51–52 Hamoa Bay Bungalow, 74–75 Hana Hale Malamalama, 75 Hana Oceanfront, 75 Hana’s Tradewinds Cottage, 76 Heavenly Hana Inn, 76 Hotel Hana-Maui, 73–74 House of Fountains Bed & Breakfast, 39–40 Huelo Point Flower Farm, 72 Hyatt Regency Maui, 45 The Inn at Mama’s Fish House, 70–71 Kaanapali Alii, 43 Kaanapali Beach Hotel, 46–47 Kahana Sunset, 48, 50 Kailua Maui Gardens, 73 Kamaole Nalu Resort, 56 Kapalua Bay Hotel & Ocean Villas, 53 Kapalua Villas, 54 Kealia Resort, 59 Koa Resort, 56 Kula Cottage, 69–70 Kula Lynn Farm Bed & Bath, 70 Kulani’s Hideaway in Hana, Maui, 76 Lahaina Inn, 40 Leinaala, 59 Maalaea Surf Resort, 55 Malu Manu, 68–69 Mana Kai Maui Resort, 59–60 Mauian Hotel on Napili Beach, 50 Maui Coast Hotel, 56, 58 Maui Dream Cottages, 71 Maui Eldorado Resort, 46 Maui Hill, 55–56 Maui Kamaole, 58 Maui Prince Hotel, 66 Maui Sands, 50 Menehune Shores, 60 Napili Bay, 52 Napili Kai Beach Resort, 47–48 Napili Sunset, 52 Napili Surf Beach Resort, 51 Noelani Condominium Resort, 51 Nona Lani Cottages, 60–61 Ohana Maui Islander, 40 Olinda Country Cottages & Inn, 67 Pilialoha B&B Cottage, 71 The Plantation Inn, 40, 42 Puamana, 42 Punahoa Beach Apartments, 61

179

Renaissance Wailea Beach Resort, 64–65 Ritz-Carlton Kapalua, 53–54 Sheraton Maui, 44 Silver Cloud Ranch, 69 Waianapanapa State Park Cabins, 77 Wailea Marriott, an Outrigger Resort, 65–66 Wai Ola Vacation Paradise on Maui, 42–43 Westin Maui, 44 The Whaler on Kaanapali Beach, 46 What a Wonderful World B&B, 61 Wild Ginger, 72

RESTAURANTS Aloha Mixed Plate, 86 The Bay Club, 91–92 Beachside Grill and Leilani’s on the Beach, 88–89 Bubba’s Burgers, 95 Buzz’s Wharf, 93 Cafe 808, 101–102 Cafe des Amis, 103–104 Cafe O’Lei, 100 Café O’Lei on Main, 80 Caffe Ciao, 98 Casanova Italian Restaurant, 100 Charley’s, 144 Cheeseburger in Paradise, 86–87 Class Act, 80 The Coffee Store, 95 Compadres Bar & Grill, 85 Cow Country Cafe, 101 David Paul’s Lahaina Grill, 82 Down to Earth, 87 The Feast at Lele, 82 Fish & Game Brewing Co. & Rotisserie, 91 Five Palms, 93–94 Gerard’s, 84 Grandma’s Coffee House, 102 Haliimaile General Store, 99–100 Hana Ranch Restaurant, 107 Hula Grill, 89 Hula Moons, 96 Ichiban, 80–81 I’o, 84 Joe’s Bar & Grill, 97 Kaahumanu Center, 79–80

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Kimo’s, 85 Kula Lodge, 101 Kula Sandalwoods Restaurant, 102 Lahaina Coolers, 87 Lahaina Fish Company, 85–86 Longhi’s, 97 Mama’s Fish House, 105, 144 Mañana Garage, 79 Marco’s Grill & Deli, 79 Maui Bake Shop, 81 Maui Swiss Cafe, 88 Maui Tacos, 91, 93 Milagros Food Company, 104 Moanai Bakery & Cafe, 103 Nahiku Coffee Shop, Smoked Fish Stand, and Ti Gallery, 106 Nick’s Fishmarket Maui, 98 Pacific’o Restaurant, 84–85 Paia Fish Market, 104 Pauwela Cafe, 106 Peggy Sue’s, 95

Pic-nics, 104–105 Pizza Paradiso, 89–90 Plantation House Restaurant, 92 Prince Court, 99 Restaurant Matsu, 81 Roy’s Kahana Bar & Grill/Roy’s Nicolina Restaurant, 90 A Saigon Cafe, 78–79 Sansei Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar, 92–93 Sea House Restaurant, 90–91 SeaWatch, 98–99 Shaka Sandwich & Pizza, 95–96 The Shops at Wailea, 96 Spago, 96–97 Stella Blues Cafe, 94 Swan Court, 88 The Vegan, 105 The Waterfront at Maalaea, 94 Whalers Village, 89 Woody’s Island Grill, 86

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San Francisco Seattle & Portland Vancouver Walt Disney World® Washington, D.C.

FROMMER’S® BEST-LOVED DRIVING TOURS Britain California Florida France

Germany Ireland Italy New England

Northern Italy Scotland Spain Tuscany & Umbria

Hanging Out in France Hanging Out in Ireland

Hanging Out in Italy Hanging Out in Spain

Southwest & South Central Plains U.S.A. Beyond Disney Branson, Missouri California with Kids Central Italy Chicago Cruises Disneyland® Florida with Kids Golf Vacations in the Eastern U.S. Great Smoky & Blue Ridge Region Inside Disney Hawaii Las Vegas London Maui

Mexio’s Best Beach Resorts Mid-Atlantic with Kids Mini Las Vegas Mini-Mickey New England & New York with Kids New Orleans New York City Paris San Francisco Skiing & Snowboarding in the West Southeast with Kids Walt Disney World® Walt Disney World® for Grown-ups Walt Disney World® with Kids Washington, D.C. World’s Best Diving Vacations

HANGING OUT™ GUIDES Hanging Out in England Hanging Out in Europe

THE UNOFFICIAL GUIDES® Bed & Breakfasts and Country Inns in: California Great Lakes States Mid-Atlantic New England Northwest Rockies Southeast Southwest Best RV & Tent Campgrounds in: California & the West Florida & the Southeast Great Lakes States Mid-Atlantic Northeast Northwest & Central Plains

SPECIAL-INTEREST TITLES Frommer’s Adventure Guide to Australia & New Zealand Frommer’s Adventure Guide to Central America Frommer’s Adventure Guide to India & Pakistan Frommer’s Adventure Guide to South America Frommer’s Adventure Guide to Southeast Asia Frommer’s Adventure Guide to Southern Africa Frommer’s Britain’s Best Bed & Breakfasts and Country Inns Frommer’s Caribbean Hideaways Frommer’s Exploring America by RV Frommer’s Fly Safe, Fly Smart

Frommer’s France’s Best Bed & Breakfasts and Country Inns Frommer’s Gay & Lesbian Europe Frommer’s Italy’s Best Bed & Breakfasts and Country Inns Frommer’s Road Atlas Britain Frommer’s Road Atlas Europe Frommer’s Road Atlas France The New York Times’ Guide to Unforgettable Weekends Places Rated Almanac Retirement Places Rated Rome Past & Present

AOL Keyword:Travel

Booked aisle seat. Reserved room with a view. With a queen – no, make that a king-size bed.

With Travelocity, you can book your flights and hotels together, so you can get even better deals than if you booked them separately. You’ll save time and money without compromising the quality of your trip. Choose your airline seat, search for alternate airports, pick your hotel room type,even choose the neighborhood you’d like to stay in.

Visit www.travelocity.com or call 1-888-TRAVELOCITY

Travelocity,® Travelocity.com® and the Travelocity skyline logo are trademarks and/or service marks of Travelocity.com LP. © 2003 Travelocity.com LP.All rights reserved.

AOL Keyword:Travel

Fly. Sleep. Save. Now you can book your flights and hotels together,so you can get even better deals than if you booked them separately.

Visit www.travelocity.com or call 1-888-TRAVELOCITY Travelocity,® Travelocity.com® and the Travelocity skyline logo are trademarks and/or service marks of Travelocity.com LP. © 2003 Travelocity.com LP. All rights reserved.