Fixin' Fish: A Guide to Handling, Buying, Preserving, and Preparing Fish

Fixin' Fish

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Fixin' Fish A guide to handling, buying, preserving, and preparing fish 2nd edition

Jeffrey Gunderson Illustrated by Leanne Alexander-Witzig

University of Minnesota Press, Minneapolis, for the University of Minnesota Sea Grant Extension Program

Copyright © 1984 by the University of Minnesota. All rights reserved. Published by the University of Minnesota Press, 2037 University Avenue Southeast, Minneapolis, MN 55414 Printed in the United States of America. Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

Gunderson, Jeffrey. Fixin' fish. Bibliography: p. 1. Cookery (Fish) 2. Fish as food. I. Title. TX747.G87 1984

641.3'92

83-27378

ISBN 0-8166-1330-3 ISBN 0-8166-1333-8 (pbk.)

The University of Minnesota is an equal-opportunity educator and employer.

Preface

Minnesota, known as the "Land of Lakes," is also known for the fish those lakes hold. Each year from our state waters approximately 2 million anglers take home 25-30 million pounds of fish, and commercial anglers harvest another 10 million pounds for consumers. In addition, Minnesota has an abundance of fish that are generally overlooked by sportfishermen and consumers alike. Whether walleye or eelpout, brook trout or suckers, crappie or carp —all can provide delicious, healthy, and easy to prepare meals that help reduce grocery bills. In this book I have included techniques, tips, recipes, and information that I hope will help you get the best taste and enjoyment out of the fish you bring home, whether

from the lake or the market. I also hope this book gives you some ideas for expanding the kinds of recipes and species you use when "Fixin' Fish." This book is possible only because of the research and extension education efforts of the many Sea Grant and Land Grant College programs around the country from which I obtained nearly all of the information contained herein. I would especially like to thank Nancy Berini for her editing and layout of the extension publication that preceded this book; Bruce Munson for his assistance in collecting, testing, and adapting information; and Dave Stuiber for so willingly sharing his technical expertise. J.G.

Contents

nutrition and economics

Why eat fish?

1

maintaining quality

Get the best from your catch freezing fish

Fishcicles

9

filleting techniques

Cutting up in style

12

scoring, flaking, grinding

A bone to pick

19

fish jerky

Dry it, you'll like it

22

6

salting fish

Salt it away

24

canning fish

Put a lid on it

26

pickling fish

Put your fish in a pickle

30

making caviar

A touch of "roe-mance"

33

smoking techniques

Where there's smoke

34

building a smoker

Engineering a smokehouse

37

basic fish cookery

Fixin' fish

40

parasites

Are the fish good enough to eat? bibliography

55

44

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nutrition and economics

Why eat fish?

Evidence indicates there is a direct relationship between the kind of food we eat and our health. Fish contain unique nutritional qualities which make them desirable additions to our menus. In fact, nutritionists recommend that fish and seafood be eaten more often. The following is a list of reasons why this food is so nutritionally appealing. •

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Fish is a complete protein food. All of the essential amino acids necessary for good nutrition are present in fish muscle. Fish protein is easily digestible. Because fish muscle fibers are shorter than those found in red meat and fish contains less connective tissue, it provides more easily digestible protein than beef or pork. Fish supplies such important minerals as calcium, iron, phosphorous, potassium, copper, iodine, magnesium, cobalt and other trace minerals. All fish have a low sodium content, which makes them ideal for strict low sodium diets. Even saltwater fish are low in sodium. Fish contain valuable amounts of the B-complex vitamins.

• They are often excellent sources of vitamins A & D; this is particularly true of fat fish such as trout, salmon, and whitefish. • Fish are generally low in fats and oils and the fat they do contain is largely (60% - 85%) unsaturated and polyunsaturated, which is important to many special diets. Fish are also very low in cholesterol. • And fish, generally, have fewer calories per servin than beef, poultry, or pork.

calories For those who are calorie conscious, substituting fish for red meats offers distinct advantages. Pound for pound fish has only one-half to two-thirds the calories of beef or pork. Refer to the nutrition chart for a comparison.

protein Fish, meat, and dairy products are examples of foods which contain all the essential amino acids. In other words, they are complete protein foods. Other sources of protein 1

such as grains and vegetables lack one of more of the essential amino acids. The shorter length of fish muscle fibers (compared to beef and pork) and the decreased amount of connective tissue in fish muscle make fish easily digestible. Because of this, fishery products are often recommended for people recovering from ulcers or other digestive disorders. Also, because of the low amount of fibrous components, fish are especially suited for low bulk, bland diets. Eating fish minimizes the amount of food in the digestive tract while providing nutritious meals.

fat The low fat content and polyunsaturated nature of the fats in fish make them an ideal source of protein for those who want to limit their intake of saturated fats and cholesterol. The controversy over the amount and type of fat in the diet versus the incidence of heart disease is still not settled, but there are indications that saturated fats tend to raise the blood cholesterol level while polyunsaturated fats lower blood cholesterol. (Cholesterol, essential to the body, becomes a problem when excess amounts released into the blood begin to build up on the walls of blood vessels. This may lead to the condition called atherosclerosis, or hardening of the arteries, which can eventually lead to heart attack or stroke.) Everyone needs some saturated fats, some unsaturated fats and some cholesterol in his or her diet. Balance is the key.

minerals and vitamins Over 60,000,000 Americans have high blood pressure, a major factor in heart attack and stroke. Although many drugs can help reduce high blood pressure, reducing the amount of sodium in the diet is an important part of the treatment. Fresh fish are generally low in sodium—even saltwater fish are low in sodium and can be freely used in low sodium diets. Smoked, canned, pickled, and brine

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frozen fish, however, generally contain more salt than should be consumed on sodium restricted diets. Though low in the mineral sodium, fish contain large amounts of the minerals phosphorous, potassium, and iron and are also valuable sources of the trace minerals iodine and fluorine. Fish also contain valuable vitamins. Certain "fatty" fish such as trout, salmon, and whitefish are good sources of vitamins A and D, and many lean fish provide adequate amounts of the B vitamins.

economics As previously shown, fish are a nutritious form of protein and it would be beneficial for us to eat fish more often. Serving fish may even save you money. Since fish contain relatively small amounts of connective tissue and bone (depending on the market form) compared to other meats, the number of servings per pound can be greater. Compare the cost per serving of different meats and fish to determine which is most economical. Following are the approximate servings per pound you can expect from each of the different types and cuts of meat and fish. Use these values to determine cost per serving.

Meat canned fish minced fish fish sticks fish steaks fish fillets dressed fish whole fish ground beef ham center slice chuck roast, with bone turkey broiler

Servings per pound

6 4 4 3 3 2 1 1/3 3 3 2 2 2

Sauces, oils, orbreading used in these foods are not included in the values for protein, fat, and calorie content. Values also differ in the various muscles of individual fish. For example, the white meat of albacore is higher in protein than the dark meat, which contains more fatty tissue. The nutrition chart is adapted from information supplied by the National Marine Fisheries Service, and "Nutritive Value of American Foods in Common Units," U.S. Department of Agriculture, Agriculture Handbook No. 456. 1975. The accompanying information is for 100 gram (31/2 oz.) raw, edible portions unless otherwise stated in chart.

nutrition chart Fish Burbot (eelpout, lawyer) Carp Catfish Clams Cod

Flounder Freshwater Drum (Sheepshead) Haddock Halibut (Pacific) Herring (Lake) Lake Trout Northern Pike Oysters (Eastern) Perch (Yellow) Rainbow Trout Salmon (Chinook) Salmon (Coho) Shrimp Smelt Suckers Tuna Walleye Whitefish Other Common Foods Beef Steak Beef Liver Pork Chicken Lamb Cheddar Cheese (1 oz. ) Eggd) Whole Milk (1 cup)

Calories

Percent Protein

Percent Fat

Sodium mg

80 125 119 63 74 88 -

17 17

0.9 5.9 5.2 1.7 0.5 1.4 5.5 0.5

44 60 190 67 54 —

77 119

169 —

68 85 154 182 148 86 86 — 122 89 121

266 141 298 127

18 11 17 18 17 18 19 19 17 19 8 19 21 18 21 20 17 21 24 19 19

17 22 17 23 15

4.3 3.3

11.1 1.2 1.8 1.1 6.8

11.6 6.6 0.4 3.9 1.8 2.2 1.5 5.2

—

98 71

43 52 160 63 43

42 — 155 80 53

76 52

26 5

61 33

24.7

60 —

7.0

13.5

52

7.1

9.1

198

80

6

6

159

8

8.5

186 113

70 122

— information not available

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market forms WHOLE OR ROUND. Whole fish, just as it comes from the water. DRAWN. Whole fish with insides removed. DRESSED OR PAN DRESSED. Head, tails, fins and viscera removed. Sometimes head and tail are left on. STEAKS AND CHUNKS. Cross-section cuts of dressed fish. Chunks are thicker than steaks. FILLETS. Meaty sides of fish cut away from ribs and backbone. BUTTERFLY FILLETS. A double fillet. RAW BREADED STICKS AND PORTIONS. Uniform portions cut from frozen blocks of fillets. Seasoned crumb coated. PRE-COOKED BREADED FILLETS, STICKS, AND PORTIONS. Pre-fried with seasoned crumb coating. CANNED. Ready to serve or use as purchased.

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Other plusses for using fish besides nutrition and economics are the ease of preparation and versatility of meals. Fishery products are naturally tender and thus require a short cooking time. There are countless recipes for preparing fish: you can bake, broil, steam, fry, poach, grill, can, pickle fish and make chowders. Fishery products also offer a wide range of variety through their distinctive textures and tastes. There are over 240 species of fish and shellfish available in the United States. Additional variety is offered through the many available market forms (see insert).

buying fish Many times ocean fish labeled "fresh" in our Midwestern markets are actually "fresh frozen," shipped frozen and then thawed under refrigeration. These fish can be delicious and nutritious but will lose much of their good taste and texture if refrozen. Another thing to look for when purchasing fish products is the U.S. Grade Standard or Inspection Mark. There is no mandatory federal inspection of fishery products as there is for beef. However, the National Marine Fishery Service provides voluntary federal inspection which is paid for by the plant under inspection. Knowledgeable consumers consider this voluntary inspection to be an added service provided by concerned processors. There are two types of inspections: the "Packed Under Federal Inspection" mark and the "U.S. Grade" mark. "Packed Under Federal Inspection" may be displayed as an official mark or an official statement on the product label. The mark or statement signifies that the properly labeled product is clean, safe and wholesome and has been produced in an acceptable establishment with appropriate equipment under the supervision of federal inspectors. The level of quality has not been graded; rather the mark tells the consumer that the fish product is of acceptable commercial quality in accordance with federally approved standards for processing and packaging.

Inspection marks and grade seals

eligible to carry the inspection mark and/or the prefix "U.S." on their grade marks ("U.S. Grade A,"for example). Products which bear the Federal inspection mark but not the U.S. prefix on their grade marks must be at least Grade B; most are Grade A.

Products with "U.S. Grade" marks are ranked according to different levels of quality. There are three U.S. grade standards: A, B and C. The U.S. grade mark forms a basis for sales and purchases and provides guidelines for in-plant quality control. In general, grade standards identify the relative value, utility, and quality of each labeled fishery product. Grade A indicates top quality. Grade A products are uniform in size, practically free from blemishes and defects, in excellent condition and possess good flavor for the species. Grade B indicates good quality. Grade B products may not be as uniform in size or as free from blemishes or defects as Grade A products. Grade B may be termed a general commercial grade, suitable for most purposes. Grade C indicates fairly good quality. Grade C products are just as wholesome and generally as nutritious as higher grades. Grade C products have a definite value as a thrifty buy where appearance is not an important factor. Since federal grading is voluntary, consumers today will not find products labeled Grade B or C. Grade B and Grade C quality products are usually marketed without any grade designation. Only officially graded and certified products are

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maintaining quality

Get the best from your catch Fish is one of the most delicate and perishable of all foods. While red meat tends to improve with aging, fish never tastes as good as when it comes fresh from the water. Preserving the fresh taste of your catch requires constant care from the time it is caught or purchased to the time it is eaten.

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handling your catch If you had a T-bone steak, would you let it sit in the bottom of an oily, dirty boat or drag it around in warm water all day — and still expect it to taste good? Of course not. Follow these procedures and your fish will stay fresh until you're ready to eat it. •

After catching a fish either keep it alive or ice it down. • Be careful not to let fish flop around in the boat or cooler. This will bruise the flesh and hasten spoilage. • If a fish dies ice it immediately. • Fish may be iced whole, but highest quality will be

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assured if gills and entrails are removed. (See chapter four on field dressing.) Crushed ice is best for icing fish. Ice should be placed inside the body cavity and around the fish — blood, slime and digestive juices will drain to the bottom of the ice chest. Allow proper bleeding by removing the tail and positioning the fish in ice so the blood can drain. Blood remaining in the flesh enhances rancidity during frozen storage. When field dressing fish, avoid cutting into the in testinal tract. If the intestinal tract ruptures, wash fish thoroughly. Wash fish in good quality water after removing gills and entrails. Even when storing in the refrigerator, keep fish in crushed ice. Drain as needed so fish aren't left to soak in water.

The ideal situation is to remove gills and entrails and place fish in crushed ice. This, however, is not always possible. There are ways to keep your fish fresh even without

ice. These and other special techniques are described below. No ice available. The stream angler without access to ice should place fish in an aerated creel. Creels should be designed to allow water, slime and blood to drain. Bagtype creels lined with plastic or rubber do not allow air to circulate and are, therefore, not suitable. A layer of fresh moss used to line the aerated creel will hold a great deal of water which, in turn, evaporates and cools the fish. Grass is ineffective for this purpose as it holds little water. In your boat or on the shore you can place fish for up to four hours in a well-ventilated container (wicker basket, wire mesh box, etc.) with damp newspaper or leaves on the bottom. Cover the container with damp burlap or other cloth. Keep container shaded and burlap or cloth damp. If fish is to be held more than four hours, clean,wash, and wipe cavity dry. Rub fine table salt into the body cavity and dust salt on the outer surfaces. Store in well-ventilated container as mentioned above. Treated this way, fish should remain in good condition for at least 24 hours. Ice Fishing. Care should be taken to prevent fish from freezing unless they are to be maintained that way until cooked. Refreezing fish is not recommended and greatly reduces quality. It is possible to keep fish cool but unfrozen by burying them in the snow until you leave for home. Extended unfrozen storage. If you aren't able to freeze or cook your catch for several days you may want to try super-chilling. If properly iced during the day and super-chilled on shore, fish can be held for up to seven days without loss of quality. To super-chill 1. Line the bottom of an insulated ice chest with about four inches of ice, leaving the bottom drain open. 2. In another container, make a salt-ice mixture, using one pound of coarse ice cream salt with every 20 pounds of crushed ice. 3. Arrange fish in layers in the ice chest, generously covering each layer of fish with the salt-ice mixture.

4. If you plan to super-chill fillets, steaks, or dressed fish, wrap them in a clear, plastic film before arranging in layers in the chest. Salted ice does not last as long as non-salted, but it will maintain the temperature of your fish below 32° F.

spoilage When people are dissatisfied with the flavor of fish they blame the food the fish has eaten or the water the fish has come from. That could be the case, but more likely the fish wasn't cared for properly. Deterioration—or spoilage—results in bad taste, foul odor and mushy texture of fish flesh. This loss of quality in fresh fish is due primarily to bacteria and enzyme action. Bacteria. All fish have bacteria on their skin and gills and in their gut, but the flesh of live fish is free from bacteria. While the fish is alive, bacteria are held in check by natural functions. Shortly after the fish dies, however, bacteria start to multiply — unless the fish is kept cold. The colder the temperature at which fresh fish is held, the longer the storage life. At temperatures below 32 degrees F most bacterial growth ceases. Raising the temperature only a few degrees above 32 degrees F causes a noticeable increase in bacterial growth and shortens storage life. Even in the refrigerator, unless the fish is properly iced, storage life will be shortened. Enzymes. The enzymes which cause spoilage are found in the digestive tract. After the fish dies, the natural protection against these juices breaks down and the gut wall is attacked by enzymes. If the fish is actively feeding when caught (which is usually the case with sport-caught fish) these juices can eat through the gut within an hour. The enzymes and bacteria then leak into the body cavity and break down the flesh, causing a brownish appearance commonly known as "belly burn." In severe cases the rib bones begin to separate from the flesh. Though the

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fish is edible the flavor and texture will be inferior. Clean fish immediately once it dies and keep it cold to eliminate enzyme damage.

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CAUGHT OR BOUGHT JUDGE QUALITY IN FRESH FISH Flesh is firm, elastic and not separating from the bones. Touching the flesh gently should not leave a finger print. Odor is fresh and mil Eyes are bright, clear, and often protruding. As fish begin to spoil, the eyes become cloudy and sunken. Gills are red and free of slim Skin is shiny and with color that has not fade

freezing fish

Fishcicles

Freezing is the best way of preserving the quality of fish. With proper care at each step of the procedure for freezing fish, your fish will retain its fresh flavor for many months. The quality of frozen fish is controlled by many factors. Consideration must be given to 1. the type of protective packaging used, 2. maintenance of proper storage temperature and 3. freezing properties of different species.

freezing procedure Many people believe once fish are frozen their quality is preserved. This is not true — improperly frozen fish develop a bad taste and become very dry and tough. Follow these procedures to ensure quality. 1. Clean and wash fish thoroughly. Scrape off scales and slime. Remove head, fins and guts. Wash off blood. If slime is a problem, rinse fish in a solution of one teaspoon vinegar to three quarts cold water. 2. Divide the cleaned fish into family-sized servings. Fish to be stored longer than three months should be left whole or in large pieces to reduce loss of moisture.

3. Wrap the fish in packaging material which provides barriers to water vapor and oxygen. One of the best methods is to wrap fish first with a cling wrap and then overwrap with freezer paper. Squeeze out as much air as possible from the package. 4. Tape or tie package securely and label package with date, kind of fish, number of servings and how it is cut. 5. Place packages in coldest part of your freezer (near the bottom). Don't overload your freezer. Generally, two pounds of fish per cubic foot of space will freeze within proper time limits (12 to 24 hours). 6. Keep freezer at 0 degrees F or colder. 7. Use fish frozen the longest first.

packaging materials There is a large difference in the suitability of various wrapping materials used for freezing fish. Aluminum foil and polyvinylidene chloride (cling freezer wraps) provide very good barriers to both water vapor and oxygen. Since they cling well to surfaces, they

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eliminate air pockets which cause the flesh to dry out and turn rancid. Although aluminum foil provides a good vapor and air barrier, it may not be suitable for freezer packaging because it can be easily punctured. Freezer bags, usually made of polyester, also provide very good barriers to oxygen and vapor. But, it is difficult to force all the air from the package. Commercial packagers evacuate the air by vaccuum pumping or heat shrinking. One technique you can use to force out much of the air is to submerge the bag containing the fish in water up to the top. Do not let the water flow in, but use the water pressure to force all the air out of the bag. Then seal the bag tightly. Freezer wrap paper provides limited vapor and oxygen barriers. It serves best as an outer protective wrap over an inner wrap such as cling wrap or aluminum foil. Waxed paper, cartons, polyethelene bags, including bread wrappers, and cellophane offer little protection.

other freezing techniques A coating of ice will also prevent dehydration and rancidity. Many commercial freezers "glaze" fish with a 1/8-to 1/4-inch coating of ice. A glaze is built up by alternately dipping frozen fish into very cold water and returning them to the freezer, repeating this sequence until a proper thickness of glaze is reached. Ice-glazed fish can be stored without wrapping, but the glaze will gradually evaporate. It is best to wrap glazed fish before storing. Fish can also be packed in a container flooded with water and frozen. This is a good technique for freezing if a suitable container and just enough water to cover the fish is used. Too much water and large containers will draw out valuable nutrients, cause fish to freeze slowly, and can turn the flesh to mush (from the pressure of the ice). Good containers for freezing fish in water include coffee cans, freezer bags, and plastic containers. Waxed cartons should not be used. The best way to seal fish in water is first to freeze fish, then add cold water and freeze again. This will allow

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for quicker freezing of individual fish and reduce the pressure on the flesh.

dry ice Use dry ice to freeze your fish fast or to keep fish frozen during transport. Dry ice is solidified carbon-dioxide which evaporates at temperatures above -110° F. Wrap the dry ice in newspaper and place in a well-insulated cooler or cardboard box packed with crumpled newspaper. Place the properly wrapped fish near the dry ice. Four to five pounds of dry ice will last for about 24 hours.

frozen storage spoilage There are two means of spoilage during frozen storage that can change a good-tasting fish into a poor-tasting one—oxidation and dehydration. Dehydration. Dehydration is the drying out of frozen foods after freezing. The advanced stage of dehydration is known as "freezer burn." It causes a chalky-white appearance on the skin of fish and a browning of the flesh. It also causes fish to become tough, dry and to lose flavor. Dehydration can be prevented by using a packaging material which provides a good vapor barrier. Oxidation. A large percentage of the fats and oils found in fish are polyunsaturated which make fish very healthful to eat. But at the same time, these polyunsaturated oils are susceptible to oxidation. When oxygen comes in contact with fish during frozen storage, the fats and oils turn rancid, resulting in unpleasant flavors. You can retard the onset of rancidity by choosing a packaging material that forms a barrier to oxygen and by forcing out all air from the package before freezing.

retarding rancidity When freezing such fatty fish as whitefish, trout and salmon, additional protection against rancidity may be

needed if the fish is to be stored beyond recommended storage length of four to six months. Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) will extend the storage life of fillets by three to six months. Ascorbic acid is used as a preservative in frozen fruits, and is available through drug stores. To treat fish, place in an ascorbic acid dip for 20 seconds (two tablespoons ascorbic acid to 1 quart water). Wrap and freeze fish immediately. Ascorbic acid will become inactive in unfrozen fish flesh and will no longer protect against rancidity.

frozen storage life Recommended storage life is at 0 degrees F or lower. When freezing fish, check the temperature of your freezer especially if storing fish in the freezer compartment of a refrigerator. Many refrigerator freezer compartments range from 5 degrees to 30 degrees F. Fish stored at 15 degrees for as little as 2 weeks show a significant loss of quality. CHECK THE TEMPERATURE OF YOUR FREEZER. Fish of high fat content generally develop a rancid odor and flavor quicker during frozen storage than leaner fish. There are, however, exceptions to this rule. Lake herring, smelt, and northern pike do not withstand frozen storage as well as other fish of similar fat content. Conversely, chinook and coho salmon with relatively high fat content store better than some fish with less fat. Species lake trout, rainbow trout, whitefish, carp, catfish, lake herring, smelt, northern pike

Storage time

Never thaw fish at room temperature or in warm water since surface spoilage can take place quickly under these conditions. Small pieces of fish may be cooked while frozen (allow twice the cooking time) or may be thawed like large fish. Thawing in the refrigerator takes about 24 hours for a one-pound package. If a quicker method is preferred, hold the fish in cold water until thawed (1-2 hours). It should remain in the moisture, vapor-proof wrapping while thawing. If fish is completely thawed, cook it as fresh fish. If only partially thawed, cook fish slightly longer than recommended. When fish has thawed, it should be cooked immediately. Never refreeze fish. Although refrozen fish will be safe to eat when properly cooked, refreezing may cause a substantial loss in taste and texture.

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3-5 •

sucker, chinook salmon, coho salmon, white bass

5-8

walleyes, yellow perch, bass, burbot, crappie, bluegill

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CAUGHT OR BOUGHT JUDGE FRESHNESS IN FROZEN FISH Flesh is solidly frozen. There should be no discoloration, brownish tinge or white cottony appearance, which indicates drying out. Odor is not evident. The packaging material should be oxygen/vapor proof with little or no air space between the fish and the wrapping; the seal should not be broken. Sometimes a glazing of ice is used to protect frozen fish. Glazing should be unbroken and 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick. Avoid frozen fish stacked above the frost line in a store's display freezer. Avoid packages with"drip" or ice on the package an indication that the contents have thawed and refrozen. Flesh is a uniform color. As fish turn rancid, flesh becomes dark, usually around the backbone first, spreading out from there.

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filleting techniques

Cutting up in style

field dressing To obtain the highest flavor from your catch, field dress fish as soon as possible after they are removed from the water. Field dressing involves removing the gills and the guts as described below.

Remove kidney, entrails

Remove entrails. It is also important to remove the kidney which is the dark material along the backbone, often covered by a silvery membrane. Scrape out all remains of the kidney with thumb or stiff brush. Make your cut

Make a cut from under the chin where the two gill openings meet to the vent - just in front of the anal fin. Be careful not to cut into the intestine. If intestine is ruptured, wash body cavity thoroughly.

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You may want to remove the fins before freezing so the wrapping material is not punctured by them. To remove the dorsal and anal fins make 3/4 inch deep cuts along both sides of the fins, grasp tail end of fins and pull toward head. Fin and attached root bones will come loose. To remove pelvic fins, cut out a notch of flesh containing each fin. Pectoral fins can be removed with the head.

scaling

Remove gills

Whether preparing fish to be cooked with their heads on or simply field dressing them, the gills must be removed. Gills contain high concentrations of bacteria and can cause rapid spoilage. Insert knife under gill cover and cut gills from their point of attachment. Wash generously under cold running water. Your fish after field dressing can be stored in crushed ice for up to three days and still retain their fresh caught quality.

Scrape against scales

If the fish is to be cooked with the skin on, the scales should be removed. Scaling can be done at any time, even after the fish has been frozen and thawed. Using a spoon, fork, knife or other suitable instrument, scrape against the grain of the scales —from tail toward head. If scaling fish indoors, submerse the fish in cold water while scraping and scales won't fly all over.

fleecing

Remove fins

Scales on carp and buffalo fish are difficult to remove by scraping. They can be removed by fleecing. Insert a knife beneath the scales with the blade flat against the fish's side. Using a sawing motion against the grain of scales, remove the scales along with the outer layer of skin. Leave the inner white skin intact to hold the fish together during cooking. (Not shown)

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filleting Filleting is an easy way to clean fish and produces a boneless portion of meat while also saving freezing time and space. There are a variety of different filleting techniques, many designed for specific species. Nevertheless, most fish can be filleted with the general technique described below. Fish can be filleted with head, skin, scales and fins still on. But, as advised earlier, entrails should be removed as soon as possible. Filleting requires a sharp, long-bladed knife or an electric knife.

Remove rib bones

Do not cut through the flesh at the tail — leave the fillet connected to the fish. This will allow easier skinning. Remove the rib bones by carving them away from the flesh. This is easier with the skin still attached. Starting at the tail where the skin is still connected, run the knife along the skin separating the flesh from the skin. Keep the knife close to the skin and little meat will be wasted. Tip: Wash your hands with toothpaste to remove the fishy odor that may linger after cleaning fish.

filleting northern pike to remove y-bones Cut along backbone

Make a cut just behind the head and pectoral fin into the flesh at a 45 degree angle toward the head until you hit the backbone. Turn the knife toward the tail and cut along the backbone all the way to the tail. Stay as close to the backbone as you can without cutting through it. The knife should cut through the rib bones.

Northern pike are often ignored as a food fish because they are very bony. The following technique will allow you to fillet northern pike, avoiding the floating y-bones that are so objectionable to many people. Only a very small amount of waste will be left on the bones. (Also, refer to chapter five, "A bone to pick," for another way to prepare northern pike.)

Remove meat above backbone

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Place the fish on its belly (not on its side) and hold it by the head in that position with one hand. With the knife in your other hand, cut downward just behind the head until you hit the backbone. Turn your knife toward the tail and run it along the top of the backbone until you reach the front of the dorsal (back) fin. Now cut upward and remove your first boneless fillet.

Cut along y-bones

Remove tail section

The section of flesh from just in front of the dorsal fin to the tail does not contain y-bones. To fillet the tail section, lay the fish on its side, and cut down to the backbone just in front of the dorsal (the point where you removed the first fillet). Turn the knife and run it along the side of the backbone all the way to the tail. Turn the fish, over and repeat the procedure. This step will produce two boneless fillets.

If you look directly down on top of the backbone where the first fillet was removed you will be able to see a row of forked bones running parallel to the backbone on each side. Make a cut about a quarter of an inch deep on the outside edge of the forked bones from just behind the head to the point where the tail section fillet was removed.

Cut along outside of ribs

Cut behind head

Lay the fish on its side and make a cut down to the backbone just behind the head (on both sides).

The lengthwise cut along the outside edge of the forked bones will allow you to begin lifting your next piece of meat. As you gently separate the meat with your thumb, cut deeper and deeper until your knife is sliding along the outside of the ribs. Continue cutting along the full length of the ribs until another fillet can be removed. Do this on each side and you'll get two more boneless fillets. You end up with five boneless fillets which can be skinned and cooked as you like. It may be difficult to skin

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the first fillet which came from the top of the backbone because it is rounded. You may find it is easier to scale this portion of the fish before filleting and cook it with the skin on.

skinning and filleting burbot Burbot (also called eelpout, lawyer, ling cod) are one of the most commonly caught, yet wasted, fish in Minnesota. The burbot is the only freshwater member of the cod family which contains such commonly eaten fish as cod, haddock, pollack, hake and whiting. Burbot are as delicious as their saltwater relatives. Use the following techniques to skin and fillet this excellent food fish.

Pull head toward tail

Put the fish on its back and hold it in this position with one hand, grasping the head. Cut downward, just behind the head, through the belly walls and the backbone but not through the skin along the back.

Coarsely dress, cut through backbone. Do not remove head

Coarsely dress the fish by making a cut from the anal opening to the gills and removing the entrails. If the fish is to be filleted, it is not necessary to clean the cavity well. Dressing simply makes it easier to skin. Do not remove the head.

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Peel skin away

Turn the fish over onto its stomach and bend the head back toward the tail. Grasp the head firmly in one hand while holding the end of the backbone connected to the body with a pair of pliers or with downward pressure from your knife. Pull the head toward the tail. This will peel the skin off the entire length of the fish. To get the skinning started you may have to separate some flesh from the skin with a knife near where the backbone was cut. With a little practice, this technique works very well. Once you have the fish skinned, it can be cooked whole or filleted as in the diagram on the next page.

poor m a n ' s l o b s t e r

Remove thin tail section

Lay the fish on its side and cut down to the backbone just behind where the ribs end. Turn your knife and run it along the backbone all the way to the tail. Turn the fish over and repeat the procedure.

3 Ibs. burbot or northern pike fillets (fresh or frozen 2-inch pieces) 3 quarts water 1 medium onion Salt to taste 1/2 cup lemon juice 3 stalks celery, cut up 1/2 Ib. butter 1/4 tsp. garlic salt (optional) Paprika Place water, onion, salt, lemon juice and celery in fourquart kettle and bring to boil. Add fish and reboil 3 minutes. Discard liquid, place fish on cookie sheet. Brush with melted (garlic) butter; sprinkle with paprika. Broil for 2 minutes. Serve with melted (garlic) butter. Serves 4 to 6. Thanks to Darrel (Walleye) Jensen for this recipe.

skinning catfish and bullheads Carve meat from around ribs

Place the fish on its belly to remove the two rather thick portions of meat that lie on each side of the backbone. Make a cut down one side of the backbone along the entire section of remaining flesh until the knife begins to hit the ribs. At this point, due to the configuration of the rib cage, the knife will have to be turned almost 90 degrees and the cut continued until the fillet is removed. Repeat the procedure on the other side of the backbone. You will end up with four boneless fillets. Depending on the recipe, you may want to separate the thin tail fillets from the thick back fillets to prevent over or under cooking. The meat of the burbot becomes firm when boiled. It is this characteristic that makes it highly desirable in soups and chowders or as "poor man's lobster."

Catfish and bullheads are another group of fis^h which are very common in certain areas of Minnesota. Many anglers realize the sport and edibility catfish and bullheads offer, but others completely overlook them. One reason these fish may be ignored is that fishermen are unsure of how to prepare them for the table. To skin bullheads and catfish: Hammer a nail about three inches long through one end of a wooden plank. Angle the nail slightly toward the near end of the board. Place catfish or bullhead on the board by forcing the head, just behind the lower lip, onto the nail. If you would rather forego using the boar and nail trick, simply grasp the fish by placing your hand on top of its head and hooking your fingers around the pectoral spines.

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Secure fish; cut around dorsal fin

Cut through the skin along each side of the backbone from just behind the head to just past the dorsal fin. Make another cut straight down behind the gill cover beginning where the first cut began and ending behind the pectoral fin. Make this cut on both sides.

Peel skin toward tail

Grasp the corner of skin formed by the two cuts with a pair of pliers. Pull toward the tail. Skin should strip off one side of the fish. Repeat procedure on the other side. The skinned catfish or bullhead can be dressed (if not previously dressed), filleted or steaked and prepared as you like.

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scoring, flaking, grinding

A bone to pick

Minnesota has an abundance of fish which are generally overlooked but readily available to sport fishermen and shoppers. The problem with such fish as sucker, carp and northern pike is that they are too bony. When properly prepared, these fish make delicious, inexpensive, convenient and nutritious meals. The bones that have given these fish such a bad reputation are the floating, forked bones, commonly called y-bones. As their name indicates, these y-shaped bones are not attached to the backbone or skeletal structure but suspended in the flesh and therefore cannot be removed by normal filleting techniques. There are five techniques which avoid or eliminate the y-bone problem: scoring, flaking, grinding, canning, and pickling. Canning and pickling are discussed in later chapters. The other three techniques are described below.

scoring

the flesh side down to the skin but not through the skin. In both cases, the scoring breaks the y-bones into small pieces and allows the heat and juices released while cooking to soften the bones and make them edible. Once the fish are scored, you can bake, fry, or broil them. Best results have been with deep fat frying.

flaking Flaking enables you to separate the flesh from the bones. Place the dressed or filleted fish in a pot of boiling water and add two tablespoons each of salt and vinegar. Make sure there is enough water in the pot to cover all the fish. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 12 minutes or longer. Flesh will flake when pierced with a fork. Remove fish and chill. Once cooled, the flesh can be separated easily from the skin and bones with a fork. Use the flaked fish as you would canned tuna.

This procedure can be carried out on a filleted as well as a dressed fish. Scoring a dressed fish involves cutting down to the backbone at 1/8 inch intervals along the length of the fish. If you score a fillet make your cuts on

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grinding Grinding reduces the y-bones into tiny bits which will go unnoticed when eaten. This is the most complete way of eliminating the problem of these small bones. Very good results have been achieved using this method. Before grinding, the fish must be filleted and skinned. Cut the fillets into strips. Run these strips of fillets (containing ybones) through a meat grinder equipped with the finest blade. The ground fish can be used in a chowder, or fortified with a binder such as cornmeal or breadcrumbs and egg and shaped into patties or loaves and used as a hamburger substitute in meatballs, chili, or sloppy joes (called sloppy Jonahs when made from fish). Ground fish is a good substitute for hamburger; there is no grease or shrinkage. Try these recipes using flaked or ground fish:

recipes to try s e a f o o d c a s s e r o l e w i t h corn chips 1 Ib. ground or flaked fish 1/2 cup chopped onion 3 Tbsp. salad oil 2 Tbsp. flour 1 tsp. salt 1 can cream of shrimp soup 1/2 cup milk 1 pkg. (10 oz.) frozen peas 3 cups corn chips Cook ground fish and onion in oil until fish is crumbly. Add flour to cooked ground or flaked fish, then soup, milk and peas. Spread 2 cups corn chips on bottom of 12x18inch oven-proof casserole dish, add fish mixture. Sprinkle remaining chips around edges. Bakes at 350 degrees for 2530 minutes. Makes about 6 servings.

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sloppy

Jonahs

Cook 1 Ib. ground fish in 2 Tbsp. oil. Blend cooked ground or flaked fish with 1 tsp. salt, 1/4 tsp. pepper, and 2 Tbsp. flour. Add 1 Tbsp. dry minced onion, 1 cup water, 1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce, and 1 can (8 oz.) tomato sauce. Simmer, stirring often, for 20 minutes or until thick. Serve on rolls. Makes 4-5 sandwiches.

fish l o a f 1 Ib. ground or flaked fish 2 Tbsp. oil 3/4 cup oatmeal 2 eggs, beaten 1 cup chopped onion 1/2 pkg. dry onion soup mix 2 tsp. soy sauce Mix together all ingredients, except 1 tsp. soy sauce. Put into greased loaf pan, pour remaining 1 tsp. soy sauce over top. Bake at 350 degrees for about 1 hour. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

lasagna oceana 8 oz. lasagna noodles 1 Ib. ricotta cheese 8 oz. mozzarella cheese, sliced Sauce (recipe follows) 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese Cook noodles in boiling, salted water 25 minutes, or until tender. Drain. Arrange in shallow 2 1/2 quart baking dish, making 3 layers each of noodles, ricotta, mozzarella, sauce, and Parmesan cheese. Bake at 325 degrees for about 45 minutes. Makes 6 servings.

lasagna s a u c e 1 medium onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 2 Tbsp. oil 1 Ib. ground or flaked fish 3 1/2 cups (1 Ib. 12 02. can) tomatoes 1 can (6 oz.) tomato paste 2 cups water 1 Tbsp. salt 1/8 tsp. cayenne pepper 1 tsp. salt pinch of oregano 1 bay leaf Brown onion and garlic lightly in oil, add fish and cook until crumbly. (Several minutes for raw ground fish, only a couple minutes for flaked fish.) Add remaining ingredients and simmer, uncovered for 1 1/2 hours. Remove bay leaf.

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fish jerky

Dry it, you'll like it

Drying fish at home is an easy, economical way to preserve your catch. Any fish can be used to make fish jerky. Jerky makes a great snack and can be carried easily by backpackers, boaters, or campers. Jerky will last for about two months if wrapped in waxed paper and kept in a cool, dry place. 1. For best flavor and texture, start with fresh fish or good quality frozen fish. If fish is frozen, thaw in refrigerator and drain off excess water. 2. Fillet fish and cut into strips approximately 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch thick and 2 inches wide. Use any length you desire. Cut across grain of muscle for a more tender product. 3. Prepare a marinade for the fish (see below). 4. Lightly salt both sides of the fish. About 7-9 teaspoons of table or pickling salt should be used for every 3 Ibs. of fish. 5. Place about one-half of prepared and salted fish in a ziplock plastic bag. Pour one-half of marinade over fish. Add remaining fish and marinade. Roll bag back and forth to insure the marinade covers all of the fish. The salt and

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marinade will make its own brine which will preserve the flesh. 6. Squeeze out as much air as possible from the bag. Seal bag opening. Marinate by placing in the refrigerator for 12 hours. 7. Remove bag from refrigerator and place fish strips on racks. The fish may be dried in either an oven or a dehydrator. Dehydrators should be set at 140 degrees F. Ovens should be set at 160 degrees F and the door should be kept open about 2 inches. Drying will take from 8 to 12 hours depending on the thickness and moistness of the fish. (Check at regular intervals and remove before too dry.) Smokers, especially those with an electric heat source (see chapter 12 "Engineering a smokehouse"), can be used to dry fish also. 8. The finished product should be firm, dry and tough. It should be somewhat bendable. When chewed, there should be some resiliency or rubbery characteristic to the meat. Overcooked jerky comes out crunchy. 9. Wrap jerky in waxed paper and store in a cool dry place. It can be kept this way for two months. If mold appears, it could mean either that the drying

process had not been complete enough or that the storage area you've chosen is too humid. It is probably best to discard jerky that shows mold. This technique can be used with inexpensive, often overlooked fish. Try experimenting with carp, burbot, or sucker as your starter product. You may be pleasantly surprised.

marinade recipe For use with 3 pounds of fish fillets. 1/8 cup teriyaki sauce 1/8 cup liquid smoke 6 drops of Tabasco sauce

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salting fish

Salt it away

Salt preserves fish by removing water from the flesh so bacteria cannot grow. If enough salt is used, fish may keep as long as a year when stored in a cool dry place. Salting is especially useful for storing fish that you plan to smoke or pickle or if you are short of freezer space. Most fish can be preserved by salting. Generally, the salt brine preserves lean fish better than oily fish (lean fish become rancid less easily), but oily fish can be excellent when salted. Salt used in this process should be pure and clear. Use pickling or canning salt. Table salt is not satisfactory. Follow this procedure for salting fish: 1. Split small fish down the back so they lay flat. Fillet large fish. The pieces should be small enough to lay flat in the container. For good salt penetration, make lengthwise cuts about 1/2 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart in the thickest fish pieces. Do not cut through the skin. 2. Soak the fish for 30 minutes in a brine of 1/2 cup salt to each gallon of water. This helps remove blood and slime. Drain the fish while you prepare the salt. 3. Fill a dish pan or shallow box with dry salt. Sprinkle a layer of salt on the bottom of the brining container.

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For salting less than 50 pounds of fish, the container can be any 2- to 4-gallon nonmetal container such as a stone crock, wooden or plastic tub with a lid. 4. Dredge each piece of fish in salt in the dish pan and place skin side down in the container. Arrange pieces to make even layers. Stagger successive layers so that each fish rests on two fish in the layer below. Scatter a thin layer of salt between each layer. A general rule is to use one part salt to three parts fish. 5. Pack the top layer of fish with the skin side up and place a loose fitting wooden cover or china plate on top of them. Weight the cover with a nonmetal weight. Small fish will be completely brined in 48 hours. Thicker and oilier fish will require seven to 10 days. 6. When the fish are thoroughly brined, remove them and scrub in a saturated brine (7 cups salt to 1 gallon water) using a stiff brush. 7. Repack fish in container, scattering a thin coating of salt between layers. Fill container with fresh saturated salt brine (concentration in step 6), and store in cool dark place. Change the brine at the first sign of fermentation. The brine will become cloudy if bacteria start to ferment the fish.

freshening salt-preserved fish Salted fish can be smoked, pickled or used in a variety of recipes, but they need to be freshened in cold water first. Soaking in several changes of cold water for 8 to 48 hours should be sufficient. Should further freshening be desired (if the fish is still too salty for your taste) cover fish with cold water and bring to a boil;simmer 5to 10minutes. Methods of preparing salt-preserved fish other than smoking and pickling include broiling, frying, baking, and poaching.

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canning fish

Put a lid on it

Canning is a method of commercially preserving tuna, salmon, sardines and other fish. Canning may also be done in the home using species of fish locally available. An alternative to freezing, home canning of fish has some distinct advantages. Canning: • will preserve fish for up to one year; • softens bones so that they can be eaten unnoticed along with the meat; • produces a moist, flaky product that may be used similarly to commercially canned fish. Fish, as well as red meats, poultry, and vegetables (except tomatoes), must be canned in a pressure cooker. Temperatures higher than boiling (212 degrees F ) are required during processing to destroy the bacteria spores which cause botulism. Fish and other low acid foods should never be oven processed or boiling water processed. Canning fish is not difficult, but to ensure safety follow the directions carefully and don't guess at anything. Dressed, steaked, or filleted fish may be used. Be sure the fish is fresh, of good quality, and has been carefully cleaned and iced prior to use. Frozen fish should be completely thawed before processing.

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You may want to soak fish in a weak brine of 1 cup canning and pickling salt to 1 gallon cold water for 15-30 minutes. The salt solution will remove blood and water from the fish flesh to produce a firm, more desirable product. Drain fish for several minutes after brining. Only use pint jars or smaller for canning fish. Quart jars do not allow proper heat penetration and the bacteria spores which cause botulism may not be destroyed. Cut fish into pieces that will fit into the jar, leaving a head space of about 3/4 inch. Pack fish tightly into jars. If skin is left on fish, place skin side out. Use small pieces of fish to fill empty spaces. It should take approximately 2 to 3 pounds of fish to fill each pint jar. Following are two basic methods for canning fish.

hot-pack method 1. Boil cold-brined fish in fresh water for 10 minutes or until flesh pierces easily with a fork. The advantage of boiling the fish first is that shrinkage is kept to a minimum and fewer jars are required. 2. Remove fish and pack firmly into clean, hot, pint jars.

3. Add onions, bay leaves, and/or other spices to jars, if desired. 4. Cover the fish with hot brine, leaving 3/4 inch head space. 5. Wipe rims of jars and place lids and screwbands on the jars —only hand tighten. 6. Follow general canning procedure in this chapter.

cold-pack method This is a particularly good method for canning salmon and trout. Fish, however, will shrink somewhat using this method and jars will not appear full after processing. 1. Pack cold-brined fish tightly in pint jars, leaving 3/4 inch head space. 2. Add 1/2 teaspoon canning and pickling salt to each pint jar if fish has not been brined. 3. Wipe rim and close jars. 4. Preheat jars by placing in at least two inches of cool water and bringing the water to a near boil. If you fail to preheat the jars, they may break when put into canner. 5. Follow general canning procedure in this chapter.

general canning procedure Pressure canning is a safe, straightforward process. 1. Use a pressure canner that is in good working condition. 2. If the canner has a pressure gauge be sure it is accurate. Have the gauge tested every two to three years, or any time you have doubts about it. 3. Reread the directions that came with the pressure canner. 4. Have the proper amount of water in the canner (usually two inches) before adding the jars. 5. Clean tops of jars, put on the lid and ring, and hand tighten. Do not put rings on too tightly; you may either cut through the rubber seal —in which case the jars

won't seal —or have lids so tight that the pressure won't equalize and the jars will break while processing. 6. Add jars and seal canner. Wait until the steam has vented before closing the petcock or putting on the weighted gauge to let the pressure rise. (Venting usually takes 1015 minutes after steam first appears. But, read the canner directions for venting time required.) 7. Select a processing pressure and time. Select either: (1) 10 pounds pressure for 100 minutes, or (2) 15 pounds pressure for 80 minutes (process for 90 minutes at 15 pounds if your pressure canner has less than a 12 quart capacity). Caution —use only 15 pounds pressure if your canner is designed to do so. 8. Adjust burner to keep a steady pressure. Fluctuating pressure causes loss of liquid inside jars. Begin counting the processing time after the correct pressure is reached. Write down the time when processing begins; do not try to guess. 9. Do not let pressure drop below the pressure you selected for processing. If you are processing at 10 pounds and the pressure drops below 10 pounds, you must start over and reprocess for the entire 100 minutes. If, however, you are processing at 15 pounds pressure and the pressure drops below 15 pounds but not below 10 pounds, you have two choices. Either start over and reprocess for the entire 80 minutes at 15 pounds, or drop down to 10 pounds and process for the remainder of 100 minutes. Moderate over-pressure cooking does not harm canned fish: You may use pressure slightly greater than recommended and process for longer than recommended without serious damage to fish. 10. At the end of the pressure processing period, turn the heat off but leave canner on the burner. You may break the jars or destroy their seals if you move the canner. Allow pressure gauge to drop to zero or leave weighted gauge in place for 20 minutes. 11. After pressure drops to zero, remove the pressure regulator or the weighted gauge. Wait 10 minutes and remove the lid, tilting it so the steam will escape away from you.

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12. Remove the hot jars and allow them to cool slowly on a dry, non-metallic surface. Avoid cool, direct drafts or the jars may crack. 13. Jars seal with an audible "click" and can be identified by a slight indentation in the lid. If the jars fail to seal, or you are doubtful about the pressure or time used for processing, reprocess at 10 pounds pressure for the entire recommended time. Otherwise refrigerate the fish and use within five days, or freeze the fish. 14. Remove screwbands after the jars have cooled and sealed. If left on, screwbands may rust and break the seal. Do not tighten screwbands at any time.

important safety tip Although the pressure canning process should destroy botulism-causing bacteria spores, a safety step is recommended before using home-canned fish. After opening canned fish, empty contents into a pan and boil for 8 to 12 minutes while stirring. Boiling will destroy any botulism toxin that may have developed (and ensure the safe use of your canned fish). Contact your local County Extension Office if you have any questions regarding correct canning procedure or how to test your pressure gauge. Don't guess at anything.

variations of the hot-pack method Tomato Sauce 1. Follow Basic Hot-Pack Method steps 1-3. 2. Prepare a tomato sauce by mixing and heating 1 quart of tomato catsup, 1/4 oz. ground horseradish, 11/2 teaspoons minced onion, and 1 tablespoon salt. 3. Pour the hot sauce over the packed fish leaving one-half inch head space. 4. Wipe rims and put lids and screwbands on. 5. Follow general canning procedure.

Oil

1. 2. pint jar. 3. 4.

Follow Basic Hot-Pack Method steps 1-3. Add 3 tablespoons of warmed vegetable oil to each Wipe rims and put lids and screwbands on. Follow general canning procedure.

Artificial smoke flavoring may be added to your canned fish. The artificial smoke flavorings presently available in grocery stores are water-based and should be used with water and sauce-based canned fish. Although waterbased smoked flavor may be used with oil-based canned fish better result will be achieved if oil-based smoke flavoring is used. Currently, the only way to obtain oil-based smoke flavoring that we know of is to write to the address below. Red Arrow Products Company P.O. Box 507 Manitowoc,WI 54220

recipes to try quickie Alternate layers of canned fish and potato chips in greased casserole until you've used 2 cups of each. Blend together one can of cream of mushroom soup with 1/2 cup milk and pour over the fish and chips. Dot with butter or margarine and bake for 15 minutes at 400 degrees F. Serves 6.

f i s h and rice Cook 1 cup rice according to package directions. Place cooked rice in large greased baking dish and sprinkle 2 cups of canned, drained fish over rice. Brown a medium-sized chopped onion in 2 tablespoons fat. Add 2 cups of tomatoes to onions and pour mixture over rice and fish. Top with bread crumbs and bake for 20 minutes at 350 degrees F. Serves 6. Recipes provided in chapter five, "A bone to pick," may also be used with canned fish.

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judging quality in canned fish Purchasing: • Avoid buying cans that are bulging, dented or rusted. The seal may be broken and the fish contaminated with bacteria. • Read the label carefully to be sure that the desired weight, species, market form and packing liquid are being purchased.

doesn't effect the flavor, texture or healthfulness of canned fish. Although these defects are not commonly found, they do occur. If defects are noticed in canned fish you buy, either return the canned fish to the store where you bought it or write to the Consumer Affairs Division of the company that canned the fish. Tell them when and where you bought the fish, the code found on the lid or label, and what the defect was.

Storing: • Once canned fish is opened, it is best to remove the contents from the metal can and store in a glass or plastic container that can be sealed. • Store canned fish away from sources of heat. • Use home-canned fish within one year. Oilpacked fish should be used within six to nine months. When canned fish is opened look for these: • Firm flesh —not mushy. • Dark flesh next to can walls will indicate overcooking—flavor becomes strong and bitter. •

If packed in oil, oil is clean and fresh looking—not cloudy or milky. • If packed in tomato or mustard sauce, the sauce should have the characteristics of a good, fresh sauce. • No undesirable fish parts (bits of fins, scales or gills) or other foreign material packed in with the fish. • There are no "off " odors or discoloration. • There is no honeycombing (looks like the fish was punched full of holes with a toothpick). This indicates cellular breakdown and poor quality canned fish. • Little crystals that look like rock candy, rock salt or broken glass. This crystalline formation is a magnesium compound called struvite. Struvite

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pickling fish

Put your fish in a pickle Pickling is an easy and delicious technique for preserving fish. Usually when people think of pickled fish, they think of pickled herring which is sold commercially. Many other fish, however, can be pickled at home. We in Minnesota have a variety of fish that lend themselves well to pickling: northern pike, smelt, trout, salmon, burbot, sucker. Individual taste and availability of fish are the only limitations to the kinds of fish you can pickle. The fish must be cooked or frozen in order to kill the larvae of the broad fish tapeworm, a parasite which can infect humans. Although the larval tapeworm may be found in several Minnesota fish, it is most common in northern pike and burbot. Simmering fish in the pickling liquid or in water (to 140 degrees F) will kill the parasite without harming the flavor or the texture of the final product. For those who use raw fish in their pickling recipes, it is recommended that raw fish first be frozen at 0 degrees F for 48 hours. Following the guidelines below will ensure that your fish are safe as well as delicious.

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the ingredients Fish - Use only good quality fresh or salted fish. See chapters two and seven on judging quality and salting fish. Vinegar - Distilled vinegar is used as a pickling agent to stop bacterial spoilage, give flavor, prevent botulism, and soften bones. The vinegar will not preserve the fish forever. It only slows the spoilage and softening of flesh caused by enzyme action. The vinegar to be used must be clear, have no foreign flavor or odor, and have at least a 5% acetic acid content. Distilled white vinegar is recommended. To prevent botulism, your recipe should use at least one or more parts vinegar to one part water. Salt - A good quality, pure, non-iodized pickling or canning salt is required. Table salt has impurities that will discolor the pickled fish or give it a bitter taste. Table salt may also cause sedimentation and a cloudy liquid in the final product. Spices - Fresh, whole spices are recommended for best flavor. Water - Soft water is best. Hard water may have im-

purities which will discolor the pickled fish or give it a bitter taste.

basic pickling procedure These basic steps should be used for preparing pickled fish: 1. Fish should be cleaned (heads, fins and entrails removed) and scaled. Large fish should be filleted—this may not be necessary for small fish. 2. Soak fresh fish in a weak brine of 1 cup salt for every 1 gallon of water for 1 hour in the refrigerator; then drain. 3. Soak fish in a heavy brine of 4 cups of salt to 1 gallon of water for 12 hours in the refrigerator. Use only glass, enamel or plastic containers for brining. 4. Remove fish from brine and thoroughly rinse fish in fresh water for 30 minutes under cold running water. If salt preserved fish are used for pickling, freshen them according to directions in chapter seven on salting fish and follow remaining procedures. 5. Cut into bite size chunks or strips. 6. If raw fish have not been frozen for at least 48 hours, simmer either in the pickling liquid or in water for 5 to 10 minutes, or until it is easily pierced by a fork. Do not overcook. 7. Cool the fish and pickling liquid in the refrigerator. 8. Pack the cool fish loosely into glass jars (not cans), cover with cooled pickling solution and seal jars immediately. This product must be stored in a refrigerator and used within four to six weeks. 9. For longer storage, place fish and pickling solution in canning jars and process the sealed jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. The water in the bath should be one or two inches over the tops of the jars. (Fish and pickling liquid need not be cooled prior to packing them in jars processed this way.) Take the jars out and place on a dry, nonmetalic surface to cool and seal. The jars seal as they cool with an audible "click" and lids will be visably indent-

ed. Fish processed in this way may be stored in a cool dark place from six months to a year. If the jars fail to seal, they must be processed again or refrigerated and used within 4 to 6 weeks. Note: Most pickling recipes contain sugar, salt, spices and onions. These add little to the preservation of the fish but are the key to good flavor. You may modify the amounts of these ingredients to suit your taste. But remember— cook or freeze your fish and use a pickling liquid with as much as or more vinegar than water. (If flavor of vinegar is too strong for your taste, add more sugar to offset it. Try doubling the amount of sugar for a start.) Sometimes after pickled fish have been stored in the refrigerator, the pickling liquid will become jelly-like. This is because gelatin has been extracted from the skin and bones of the fish during boiling. As the liquid cools, the gelatin sets. Pickled fish that are set in a jelly are perfectly safe to eat. If, however, you would like to eliminate the jelly, simply pick out the fish pieces, place them in another jar, and add fresh, cool pickling solution. Following are some recipes for pickled fish.

g e n e r a l pickled fish 2 Ibs. fish 1/4 ounce bay leaves 1 1/8 tsp. allspice 1 1/8 tsp. mustard seed 1/2 tsp. whole cloves 1/2 tsp. pepper, ground 1/4 to 1/2 tsp. hot, ground, dried pepper 1 1/2 onions, slices 1 1/2 cup white vinegar 1 cup water Follow steps 1 through 5 of Basic Pickling Procedure. Combine all ingredients except fish, bring to boil, simmer 5 to 10 minutes. Follow steps 6 and 7. Then pack cooled fish

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loosely in clean glass jars, adding a few whole spices, a bay leaf, freshly sliced onions and a slice of lemon. Strain the cooled vinegar solution and pour into jars until fish is covered. Seal jars. If longer storage is desired follow step 9.

p i c k l e d n o r t h e r n pike 6 Ibs. northern pike— herring, lake trout, salmon, sucker and others may be substituted. 6 to 7 cups white vinegar 3 cups white sugar 1 cup white wine 1/2 cup mixed pickling spices 1/4 oz. bay leaves 2 Tbsp. allspice 2 Tbsp. whole cloves 3 or 4 sliced onions (about 1/2 pound) 8 lemon slices Follow steps 1 through 5 of Basic Pickling Procedure. Combine vinegar, sugar, wine, and pickling spices. Bring to a boil and simmer 10 minutes. Follow steps 6 and 7. Pack cold fish in clear glass jars and add the bay leaves, allspice, cloves, onion slices and a slice of lemon to each. Strain the cooled, reserved liquid. Pour into jars until fish pieces are covered. Seal immediately. For storage, see steps 8 and 9.

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pickled salmon 2 Ibs. salmon 1 cup white vinegar 1 cup water 6 tsp. olive oil 1/4 cup sliced onions 1/2 tsp. white pepper 1/2 tsp. mustard seed 1/4 tsp. cloves 1/4 tsp. black pepper 1/4 tsp. bay leaves Follow steps 1 through 6 in Basic Pickling Procedure. Place fish in the refrigerator. Cook the onions in the olive oil slowly until they are yellow and soft. Add the rest of the ingredients and simmer gently for 45 minutes. Allow the sauce to cool and follow steps 8 and 9.

making caviar

A touch of "roe-mance" Caviar is a fishery product many people enjoy but rarely eat because it tends to be expensive. It is very easy to make, and the eggs from almost any fish species including trout, salmon, sucker, sturgeon, whitefish and burbot can be used. The eggs of gar are sometimes toxic and should not be eaten. For high quality caviar, eggs should be taken just before they are fully developed. If the eggs can be forced out of the fish with a slight pressure on the abdomen they are "ripe" and will make a soft, inferior caviar. Eggs that are immature or "green" also do not make high quality caviar. As a general rule of thumb, eggs can be taken during the month prior to spawning. To make your own caviar: 1. Remove eggs from fish as soon as possible, pack them in ice and use within 24 hours. A heavy oily aroma is natural, but if any odor of spoilage is present, do not use the eggs. 2. Gently remove individual eggs from the skein and place them in a bowl. You will probably get about 1 1/2 cups of eggs from a 1/2 pound skein. As you pick out the eggs, remove and discard pieces of membrane, blood, and bits of intestine or black skin.

3. For each 1 or 2 cups of cleaned eggs, prepare a brine of 1/2 cup pickling or canning salt to 2 cups cold water in a large bowl, and stir until salt is dissolved. 4. Pour eggs into brine. Swirl eggs and let stand about 30 minutes. They will become firm as their interior coagulates to a jelly-like consistency. If brined too long eggs will shrink. 5. Pour caviar into a strainer. Rinse in cold water and drain thoroughly on fine-mesh screens or in a strainer (colander) lined with cheesecloth. Draining should be done at refrigerator temperatures. Sufficient draining will take from 2 to 4 hours. 6. Store caviar in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator. Caviar can be kept about two weeks or as long as the flavor is pleasant. 7. If caviar is to be kept for more than 2 weeks, add one ounce of salt for each pound of caviar. The extra amount of salt should prevent spoilage of the caviar up to 6 months if kept in the refrigerator. Serve chilled: Nest the serving bowl in a larger bowl of crushed ice, and serve with unsalted crackers or toast spread with sweet butter or sour cream.

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smoking techniques

Where there's smoke You can prepare delicious smoked fish yourself. Smoking is a method of fish preparation that can be as simple or complex as you like. There are many misconceptions about smoking fish; the most common is the time it takes. Depending on the degree of dryness and amount of smoky flavor desired, hot-smoked (kippered) fish require from 2 to 12 hours of smoking and cooking. Cool-smoked fish require a heavier brine, a lower smokehouse temperature and take from one to ten days to be smoked and dried. Cool-smoking is seldom done, except to preserve fish for long periods, and is not discussed here. Wood smoke has little, if any preservative effect and is mainly a flavoring and coloring agent. Salt and dehydration do preserve smoked fish but to a limited extent. Smoked fish is perishable and must be refrigerated and used within two to three weeks. If you can't use the fish you smoke within three weeks, freeze or pressure can it immediately after smoking. The longer you wait to freeze or can smoked fish the poorer the quality it will have. The best fish to smoke are those with a high fat content such as carp, catfish, salmon, lake herring (tulibee), chubs (ciscos), trout, and whitefish. Many other fish in-

34

cluding very lean fish have been smoked with good results. Experiment to see which you prefer. There are four steps in smoking fish: cleaning, brining, drying and smoking.

cleaning The first step is to clean the fish. Depending on the species, fish may be gutted and beheaded, halved, filleted, or steaked. Small fish can be smoked whole (dressed). Fish should not be skinned, and bones are generally not removed. Fish that has been frozen and thawed has more porous flesh and will allow the smoke to penetrate more evenly.

brining Prior to smoking, the fish are placed in a brine of salt, which aids in preservation and draws out any excess blood. The amount of salt in smoked fish depends on the strength of the brine, the length of brining time, and the amount of fresh water rinsing following brining. Individual taste

preference determines the amount of salt used. The following guideline serves as a starting point for developing a basic brine which will yield smoked fish with a recommended amount of saltines. For spicier brines refer to recipes below. Prepare a 30 degrees salometer brine by dissolving 1 cup of canning or pickling salt to 1 gallon of water. If a salometer is not available, an egg can be used to check the strength. A large fresh egg will float about one-half inch out of the brine. If it sinks lower, add more salt. A glass, plastic, or stainless steel container should be used. Do not use wood or aluminum containers. Prepare one quart for every pound of fish to be brined. Place the fish in the cold brine and keep in refrigerator at 40 degrees F for 16 hours. When making up the brine solution, begin by adding half the amount of warm water; ingredients will dissolve better. Then add cold water to reach the proper level. Cool brine before adding fish. Other brines to try: SAVORY SMOKED FISH 2 qts. water 1 cup non-iodized salt 1/2 cup brown sugar 2 Tbsp. lemon concentrate or 1/4 cup lemon juice 1/4 Tbsp. garlic powder 1/4 Tbsp. onion powder SMOKED SALMON DELUXE 1 cup water 1 cup dry white wine 2 cups soy sauce 1/3 cup sugar 1/4 cup non-iodized salt 1/2 tsp. onion powder 1/2 tsp. garlic powder 1/2 tsp. Tabasco sauce 1/2 tsp. pepper

Brine: fillets or small whole fish — 4 hrs thick chunks or steaks — 8-12 hrs Recipes from Little Chef Smoker Recipes by Luhr, Jensen and Sons, Inc. After brining, rinse the fish in slowly flowing cold water for 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish. This removes excess salt and firms the flesh prior to smoking. Experiment to determine the rinsing time needed to provide the salty flavor you desire.

drying Prior to smoking, the flesh surface must be dried to form a "skin" or "pellicle." This seals the surface and prevents loss of natural juices during smoking. If a pellicle is not formed, milky-colored juices will collect in pools on the surface of the smoked fish. A properly formed pellicle gives a shiny dry surface to the flesh. After rinsing, drain the excess water and place fish skin side down on screens or racks, or suspend from hooks. Fish should be dried at an air temperature of 90 degrees F for an hour in the smokehouse and should be moved occasionally during the drying period to prevent sticking to the racks. Drying time will vary with the humidity and the amount of air circulated over the pieces. The use of a fan will speed up the process. Drying can also be accomplished by hanging fish outdoors in a cool, shady, breezy place for about three hours.

smoking Place fish with properly formed "pellicle" on racks, or screens, or hang on hooks from suspended rod in the smoker. A meat thermometer should be inserted into the thickest flesh section to determine internal temperature throughout the cooking period. During the first two hours, fish should be smoked at an internal temperature not

35

exceeding 95 degrees F. This cold-smoke process completes pellicle formation and slowly develops brown coloring. After the initial two-hour period, the temperature of the smoker should raise to about 225 degrees F. A final/sterna/ flesh temperature of 180 degrees F should be reached 3 to 4 hours after first applying the higher heat. Maintain fish at 180 degrees F for 30 minutes. Depending on the size of the fish, cooking time may take up to 12 hours. Almost any hardwood can be used for smoking. Usually hickory, apple, alder, or maple—chips or sawdust —are used. Resinous softwoods will give fish a very unpleasant taste. Unless a lighter smoked flavor is desired, moistened chips or sawdust are usually added to the fire box throughout the cooking process. After the required internal temperature and desired smoke flavor is reached, remove the fish pieces and allow to cool. If the internal temperature of the fish does not reach 180 degrees F for at least 30 minutes during smoking, the cooking should be completed in the oven.

storage of smoked fish Smoked fish is perishable. It should be wrapped in waxed paper, kept refrigerated and used within two to three weeks. Do not store smoked fish in airtight containers in the refrigerator. If smoked fish is to be stored longer than two weeks, wrap in vapor- and oxygen-proof packages and freeze (see chapter three). Upon thawing, the wrapping should be removed and the product consumed within a few days. Freezing may cause a softer texture in your smoked fish. Generally the more moisture remaining in smoked fish, the greater the change in texture when frozen. Smoked fish may also be canned. Follow instructions in chapter eight (Cold-Pack Method), omit salt and add one tablespoon of vegetable oil. A lighter smoking of fish to be canned is recommended because the canning process intensifies the smoke flavor.

36

building a smoker

Engineering a smokehouse Building a smokehouse or smoking chamber can be very easy. Basically all you need to produce delicious smoked fish is a system that provides four things: 1. 2. 3. 4.

a source of heat a source of smoke a chamber to contain the heat and smoke a device to support the fish within the chamber

The following methods of constructing a smoker contain these four essentials. When examining the different types of smokers keep in mind that these four basics can be interchanged to suit your specific needs. No matter which type of smokehouse construction you chcose, follow the recommendations given in chapter eleven on smoking fish for safe, good tasting smoked fish.

refrigerator For the last 25 years, conversion of an old refrigerator has been one of the most common methods of building a smokehouse.

1. Remove the refrigerator mechanisms. 2. Cut a large hole in the top of the refrigerator (approximately 6" to 8" in diameter). Lay a piece of sheet metal, plywood, or plasterboard over the hole—it can be attached on one side with a hinge or left unfastened. A wedge is then used to prop up one side of the cover to regulate the flow of air, thereby regulating the temperature and smoke. A section of stove pipe with a baffle can be substituted. 3. Drill a hole about half way up the side of the refrigerator. Insert a thermometer stuck through a cork or rubber stopper into the hole to monitor temperature. 4. On most refrigerators a hot plate can be placed where the refigerator motor was. This area should be completely enclosed. Some models may require addition of a panel in the rear of the refrigerator. A damper is needed in this lower section of the refrigerator to adjust air flow. The damper may simply consist of a series of holes that can be opened or closed as needed, using wood or rubber stoppers. 5. Cut vent holes in the bottom of the refrigerator just above the hot plate to allow smoke and heat to rise into the smoking chamber. Make enough holes (at least 1 inch in diameter) to allow easy passage of smoke and heat.

37

1. Hang a piece of sheet metal about one or two inches below the grill (between the fish and the coals). The sheet metal should be about two inches less than the diameter of the kettle. The sheet metal is optional, but it helps shield the fish from direct heat. 2. Build a small charcoal fire in the kettle and add damp hardwood chips or sawdust. 3. Place fish on the grill and cover kettle. 4. Adjust upper and lower vents and add more briquettes and/or hardwood chips as needed to maintain proper temperature and smoke.

Be sure to remove the door latch to prevent children from becoming trapped inside.

The hot plate and pan with wood chips can be protected from messy drippings if holes are not cut directly above it. Or you can simply place a "drip pan" directly above the hot plate during smoking. 6. The refrigerator racks are used to suspend fish. Fish can be hung from the racks on S-shaped hooks or string, or placed directly on the racks (see diagram). 7. Put hardwood chips or sawdust in a flat, aluminum or cast iron pan and place on the hot plate. Heat from the hot plate will cook the fish and cause the wood chips or sawdust to smoke. Regulate temperature according to recommendations in the chapter on smoking fish by adjusting damper and top vent. Add wood chips or sawdust as needed. If wood chips are burning too fast, slightly moisten them.

charcoal grill For a convenient method of smoking small amounts of fish you can use a charcoal grill if it has a dome or cover.

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5. Insert meat thermometer into thickest flesh section to monitor temperature. Follow cooking recommendations given in chapter on smoking fish.

sheet metal box This smokehouse is a permanent type of smoker, similar to a converted refrigerator. The advantage of this method of construction is that the smokehouse can be built to your own specifications.

1. Obtain a wooden packing crate or build a wood frame box the size you desire. Keep in mind that it becomes more difficult to raise the temperature to recommended levels as the size of the smoking chamber increases. 2. Fasten sheet metal to the outside of the box or crate. If you plan to smoke during cold weather also fasten sheet metal to the inside of the box to insulate the smoking chamber. Construct a door on one side of the box or crate. 3. Follow steps two and three of refrigerator method. 4. Fasten wood strips horizontally along the sides of the smoking chamber. These strips will be used to support racks, screens or wood dowling for suspending fish. 5. Lay a three sided cement block or brick foundation for the smoking chamber to rest on. 6. Construct a small door with a damper as the fourth side of the foundation. 7. Make vent holes in the sheet metal in the bottom of the smoking chamber as in step 5 of first method and place smoking chamber on foundation. 8. The fire should be contained inside a shallow pan

slightly smaller than inside dimensions of the foundation. Heat and smoke can be supplied by moist wood chips or sawdust piled on charcoal briquettes or by putting green hardwood on hardwood embers. Temperature can be regulated by adjusting damper and top vent.

box or barrel A temporary and convenient smokehouse can be made from either a cardboard box or a wooden barrel.

1. Remove top and bottom from box or barrel. 2. Hang dressed fish from a string running through the gills, or loop the string around the tail, or thread it under the backbone of steaked fish and then tie the string to sticks laid across the open top. 3. The source of heat can be from a hot plate as described in refrigerator method or from a bed of coals as in methods two and three. 4. Cover the top with damp burlap. 5. Adjust the temperature by uncovering part of the top and/or by raising and lowering one side of the box or barrel. 6. Insert meat thermometer into fish and follow cooking recommendations.

39

basic fish cookery

FixirY fish

Remember — fish is easily overcooked. If overcooked, fish will become tough, dry and lose flavor. It is easy to tell when fish are cooked: the watery translucent look of raw fish will turn to an opaque whitish color. Cooked flesh will also separate into flakes when pulled at with a fork. Below, the basics of the different cooking methods are presented. Refer to the "Timetable for Cooking Fish" for temperature and cooking time. These are not recipes but only tips on cooking methods commonly called for in many recipes.

• Baste fish with oil or basting sauce before and during cooking. • Turn thicker pieces of fish halfway through the cooking time. • Do not use thin pieces or frozen fish for broiling.

CHARCOAL BROILING is direct dry heat cooking over coals. • Thicker cuts of pan-dressed fish,fillets, and steaks are preferable. • Grease wire grill generously to prevent fish from BAKING is indirect dry heat cooking. sticking. I Place fish in a greased baking dish and bake at a • Cook fish 4 inches from moderate hot coals. moderate temperature. • Baste fish with sauce or oil before and during • Remove fish as soon as it flakes easily in the cooking. thickest portion. • Addition of fat, oil or sauce will keep fish moist. PAN-FRYING is cooking in a small amount of fat or oil. • Fish can be baked while frozen; simply increase • Choose a fat or oil that can be heated to a high cooking time. temperature without smoking. • Place fish in a single layer in about 1/8 inch hot BROILING is direct dry heat cooking. fat or oil. • Fry fish until lightly brown at moderate heat. • Surface of fish should be 3 to 4 inches below • Turn and lightly brown the other side. source of heat.

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OVEN-FRYING is a hot oven method which simulates pan frying. • Place breaded fish in a well-greased baking pan. • Pour melted fat or oil over fish and bake at 500 degrees F until fish flakes easily. • Fish need not be turned or basted. DEEP-FAT FRYING is cooking in a deep layer of fat. • Do not fill fryer more than half full of oil. This will allow room for fish and bubbling oil. • Allow fat to reach appropriate temperature. • Place only one layer of fish in the fryer. More fish may lower the temperature so fish won't brown or cook thoroughly. B Fry fish until it is golden brown and flakes easily. POACHING is cooking in a simmering liquid. • Place fish in a single layer in a large shallow pan, such as a frying pan. • Barely cover fish with liquid. The liquid may be lightly salted water, seasoned water, milk or a mixture of white wine and water. • Simmer in covered pan until fish flakes. STEAMING is cooking by steam generated from boiling water. • Fill a deep pan with a tight fitting cover 1/4 full of water. The water may be plain or seasoned. • Bring water to rapid boil and place fish in the pan on a rack that prevents them from touching the water. • Cover the pan and steam fish until it flakes easily. Cooked fish can be stored in the refrigerator or freezer. To store in the refrigerator, place fish in a covered container and do not hold longer than 2 or 3 days. Store cooked fish in the freezer by wrapping in a moisture-vaporproof material; do not store in freezer longer than 3 months.

microwave cookery More than saving time, cooking fish in a microwave saves flavor. Fish and seafood prepared in a microwave oven are delicate, flaky, tender and moist. Meal planning should include consideration of the speed at which fish cooks. defrosting

Thaw fish and seafood in their original closed package in a glass baking dish. If not in the closed package they were frozen in, wrap loosely in waxed paper. Set the oven to defrost and microwave according to the schedule below. Only partially defrost fish. Too long a defrost time will cause the outer edges to begin to cook. Remove fish from oven and let stand for five minutes. If necessary, finish thawing fish under cold running water.

Fish Form

Weight

Fillets

1 Ib.

Defrosting Time in Microwave

3 min; turn over; 3 to 4 minutes

Whole Fish

Steaks

1 1/2 to 1 3/4 Ib. 5 min; turn over; 5 to 6 minutes 1 Ib.

4 to 5 minutes

Make sure fish is completely defrosted. If not, you may find ice crystals in the center of the fish after cooking. When cooking in a microwave, the cooking containers should have a cover to prevent excessive moisture loss. Although many of the glass oven-baking dishes have glass covers, the large shallow baking dishes generally used for fish often do not. Here are some types of covers you can use:

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1. If the fish is being cooked in a sauce, the baking dish can be covered with waxed paper. 2. If a steamed fish is desired, the cover can be a moist paper towel. 3. Plastic cling wrap makes a convenient cover for most recipes. A hole should be made in the cling wrap to allow steam to escape. Use cling wraps specified for microwave use.

Let the fish stand covered for five minutes to complete cooking. At the end of the five-minute standing time, the fish should flake when lifted gently with a fork. Compared to other foods, fish cools rather quickly. Serve fish immediately after the five minute standing time.

Fish Form

Weight

Fillets

1 Ib. 2lbs.

Whole Fish Steaks

1 1 / 2 - 1 3/4 Ib.

1 Ib.

Minutes 6 to 7 minutes 8 to 9 minutes 10 to 12 minutes 7 to 8 minutes

Note: Doubling the amount of fish requires about 50% more cooking time.

The cover is especially important to hold in the heat during the standing time. This allows the center to cook without drying the outside. cooking Rinse, pat dry and place fish in baking dish with the thicker edges and larger pieces toward the outside of the baking dish. Thin portions of fillets may be overlapped to make a uniform thickness in the dish. Fillets may even be rolled up to achieve uniformity. Arrange small whole fish with tail ends toward center of baking dish. Cover cooking dish with any of the above mentioned types of covers. Remember to pierce plastic wrap to allow steam to escape. Quick-cook the fish on the microwave's high setting according to the schedule at left. This will allow the fish to retain its juices and delicate flavors. Do not overcook.

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timetable for cooking fish Cooking method and market form

amount for 6

cooking temp.

cooking time in minutes

Baking Dressed Pan-dressed Fillets or steaks Frozen fried fish portions Frozen fried fish sticks

3 3 2 12 24

pounds pounds pounds portions (21/2 to 3 ounces each) sticks (% to 1% ounces each)

3 2 12 24

pounds pounds portions (21/2 to 3 ounces each) sticks (% to 1% ounces each)

3 2 12 24

pounds pounds portions (21/2 to 3 ounces each) sticks (% to 1% ounces each)

350 350 350 400 400

F F F F F

45 to 60 25 to 30 20 to 25 15 to 20 15 to 20

Broiling Pan-dressed Fillets or steaks Frozen fried fish portions Frozen fried fish sticks

10 to 10 to 10 to 10 to

16 (turning once) 15 15 15

Moderate Moderate Moderate Moderate

1 0 to 10 to 8 to 8 to

16 (turning once) 16 (turning once) 10 (turning once) 10 (turning once)

350 F 350 F 350 F

3 to 5 3 to 5 3 to 5

500 F 500 F

15 to 20 10to 15

Charcoal Broiling Pan-dressed Fillets or steaks Frozen fried fish portions Frozen fried fish sticks Deep-Fat Frying Pan-dressed Fillets or steaks Frozen raw breaded fish portions

3 pounds 2 pounds 12 portions (2% to 3 ounces each)

Oven-Frying Pan -dressed Fillets or steaks

3 pounds 2 pounds

Pan-Frying Pan-dressed Fillets or steaks Frozen raw breaded or frozen fried fish portions Frozen fried fish sticks

3 pounds 2 pounds 12 portions (21/2 to 3 ounces each)

Moderate Moderate Moderate

8 to 10 (turning once) 8 to 10 (turning once) 8 to 10 (turning once) 8 to 10 (turning once)

24 sticks (% to 1% ounces each)

Poaching Fillets or steaks

2 pounds

Simmer

5 to 10

Boil

5 to 10

Steaming Fillets or steaks

11/2 pounds

Courtesy Seafood Marketing Authority

43

parasites

Are the fish good enough to eat?

Finally, the long-awaited strike. You set the hook and know immediately it's a good fish. The battle is lengthy, and you breathe a sigh of relief as your net slips under the only fish of the day. Although it's not one for the wall, it will be admired at the dinner table. Or will it? You look closer and notice your fish is covered with tiny black spots. Your first inclination is to throw the fish away. Before you do, check this chapter—your fish is probably still edible. Anglers occasionally catch a fish marked by infection or parasitism. But very few fish diseases can be transferred to humans, and virtually all fish can be eaten when thoroughly cooked or hot smoked. In fact most fish parasites, even if consumed alive, do not harm humans. Some parasites, however, make fish look and taste so unappetizing as to render them inedible. And there are a few fish parasites that can infect humans. For this reason, it is advisable to cook thoroughly all fish whether parasites are observed or not. This chapter identifies most of the conditions of fish disease or parasitism and provides recommendations regarding the edibility of infected fish. Usually anglers see the results of infection or a parasite rather than the organisms themselves. For this reason the visual characteristics of the

44

infection as well as its causative agent are cited here to assist in identification of the causative agent. Parasitism is a natural phenomenon. It occurs in the plant kingdom and in practically every major group of the animal kingdom. A parasite is an organism that lives in or on another larger organism of a different species (the host) from which it derives nourishment. Depending on the particular parasite, the host/parasite relationship may be either temporary or permanent. Damage to fish can be caused in a number of ways —by destroying the host's tissue, by removing blood and cellular fluids, by diverting part of the nutrient supply, and by allowing secondary infections to develop. Parasites seldom seriously harm their hosts, except when the parasites are numerous or the fish is under stress from some other cause. Some parasites, however, can cause severe damage to fish populations and thus become an important concern, both biologically and economically. Has any person ever been infected by a fish parasite? Yes! Just last summer two Minnesotans contracted tapeworms after consuming marinated, uncooked walleye or northern pike caught in Canada. The fishermen had marinated the freshly caught fish overnight in lemon juice. They

were following a recipe for Seviche, a South American raw fish dish. Although many Minnesotans don't prepare Seviche, they do pickle raw fish, and pickling alone may not destroy the larval tapeworm. Always cook the fish to 140° F for at least five minutes or freeze it at 0° F for 48 hours. Then you'll be sure you've killed any tapeworms present.

anglers can help prevent infections in fish Fish secrete a protective mucous coating over the entire length of the body which helps prevent fungal, viral, and bacterial infections. If this mucous coat is damaged, the fish becomes more susceptible to infection. Since there are size limits on many fish, and since catch-and-release fishing is becoming more popular, anglers can help prevent infections by taking extra care when returning fish to the water. The mucous coat probably will not be harmed if the hook is removed while the fish is still in the water or if the angler wets his or her hands before handling the fish. In addition, the fish should be released gently after the hook is removed, rather than tossed into the water.

Lymphocystis (virus). Found on walleye and occasionally on perch and other species. The virus infects fish by entering skin abrasions and attacks cells in the connective tissue. These cells grow to enormous size —as far as cells go —causing lumps in the skin. Practically all fish recover from this infection. Edible. Remove infected skin; clean fish and prepare as usual. Dermal Sarcoma (virus). Similar to lymphocystis except cells are of normal size. Edible. Remove infected skin; clean fish and prepare as usual. 2

external parasites Fish popeyed; scales puffed with fluid (dropsy). Bloody wounds under scales; inflammation around the mouth.

1

Cluster of white or cream-colored warts erupting from the skin. May be pinkish to red and resemble a raspberry.

Various Bacteria (such as Aeromonas sp.). Commonly found in water, Aeromonas infects fish under stress. Fish with severe popeye or dropsy probably will not bite on a hook, but may be seen dead or in distress along the shore. In some cases, open bloody wounds can result from the bacterial infection. Edible. If wound is superficial, cut out infected tissues. When a fish exhibits a puffy body and swollen eyes, it should not be eaten.

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3

5

Gray-white to yellowish slime on the skin, gills, or fins; frayed fins. Columnaris Disease (Flexibactercolumnaris). This bacterial infection may be found on catfish, trout, and possibly other species. Edible. Skin fish and prepare as usual.

Tiny white spots or clusters on the skin or gills. Ich (Ichthyophthiriusmultifilis.). This is the most common protozoan encountered by anglers. Ich burrows under the skin and may cause surface lesions. Individuals can be seen with a magnifying glass. Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual.

4 6

White cottony growth on body of fish. Has the appearance of fur or hair which collapses when fish is removed from the water. Fungal Infections (Saprolegnia sp.). Usually found on fish injured during spawning activities, by improper handling, or other cause. When established, fungus can kill a fish by completely covering it. There is no danger to humans, but an unpalatable taste may develop. Edible. Skin fish; cut out infected area and adjacent flesh and prepare as usual.

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Red pustule on or near base of fins; thread-like body may protrude from the wound. Anchor Parasite (Lernaea sp.). This copepod (1/8" to 1" long) buries only its anchor-shaped head into the fish's flesh. The remaining

portion of its body protrudes from the wound, where a red inflamed pustule may form. Or the parasite may drop off, leaving only the inflamed area.

8

Edible. Cut out inflamed area; clean fish and prepare as usual.

7

White or yellow cysts or sacs on gills or in mouth.

Bloody area on body under the scales. Louse-like organism present under scales.

Parasitic Copepod (Ergasilus sp.). a When numerous, these small copepods can kill young fish. Their presence is indicated by V-shaped white egg sacs on the inner edges of the gills. Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual.

Fish Louse (Argulus sp.). This rarely seen parasitic copepod (up to 1/2" long) often leaves a fish soon after the fish is removed from the water. It feeds on blood by piercing the skin, frequently destroying the skin's protective mucous coat in the process. Thus, secondary infection from bacteria or fungus can result. Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual.

Parasitic Copepod (Achtheres and Salmincola sp.). b These copepods attach themselves in the mouth or to the inner surface of the gills. They may also be found attached to the skin, fins, or fin bases. Achtheres and Salmincola are white and have short plump bodies with arm-like appendages that cling to the fish. Their yellow egg sacs are more obvious than the copepod. Found mainly on trout and salmon. Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual. Yellow Grub (Clinostomum sp.). C This larval fluke forms cream-colored cysts on the gills and under the skin in the mouth (same as in No. 17). Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual.

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11

9

Small round black spots under the skin or in the flesh. Black Spot (Uvulifer ambloplitis}. The easiest disease to recognize, black spot is caused by larval flukes burrowing under the skin.

Red, thread-like worms extending from the anus. Roundworms (Carnal/anus sp.). Various roundworms are found throughout the intestine. Occasionally the species that lives in the rectum will extend from the anus.

Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual.

Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual. 12

10

White to pink, thread-like swelling on head or fins. Eye bulging, opaque, or shrunken; fish apparently blind. Eye Fluke (Diplostomu/um sp.). These tiny larval flukes cannot be seen. They live in the fluid of the eye, often causing popeye. Bulging of the eye gradually disappears, but blindness may result. Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual.

48

Roundworms (Philometra sp.). Normally found on carp, buffalo, and suckers, this adult roundworm lives just under the skin. Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual.

13

from inland lakes and rivers, and the sea lamprey from Lake Superior. Fish that have been attacked by lamprey bear a circular wound or scar. Edible. If open sore, remove inflamed area; clean fish and prepare as usual.

15 Undulating, flattened, segmented worms, seldom more than 1/2" to 1 1/2" long, attached to body, gills, fins, or mouth. Contain a sucker on both "head" and "tail" end. Greenish to black. Leeches. Conspicuous, blood-feeding, external parasites, leeches produce a small circular wound that remains even when the leech moves or drops off. Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual. Crooked spine. 14 Crooked Spine. Causes of crooked spine are many and difficult to pinpoint. A protozoan (Myxosoma cerebralis) is known to cause spinal deformities when it infects young trout. Other causes include genetic and nutritional defects, bacterial infections, exposure to toxic chemicals, and electric shock. Edible. Clean and prepare fish as usual. Eel-like fish, 6" to 25" long, attached to fish; or circular open wound or healed scar 1/2" to 1" in diameter on fish. Lamprey. The sucker mouth of lamprey is equipped with horny teeth and a rasping tongue which is used to cut through the scales and skin of fish. Lamprey feed on blood and body fluids of the host. Three types of parasitic lamprey are found in Minnesota: the chestnut and the silver lamprey

49

16

Tiny freshwater mussles (clams) attached to gill filaments or fins of fish. May also appear as lumps on gill filaments or fins.

parasites in the flesh 17

Larval Stage of Freshwater Mussles (Glochidia). Many freshwater mussles have a larval stage (called glochidium) which becomes a parasite of fish. Within a short time after attachment to gills or fins the small mussles become encysted and appear as enlargements of the gill filaments. After developing into young clams, they break open the cysts and fall to the substrate below where they develop into nonparasitic adults. Edible. Clean and prepare fish as usual. White or yellow cysts imbedded in the muscle, especially at base of tail or fins just under skin. In heavy infections may be found in the walls of the body cavity, head, throat, and gills. Living worms very active when squeezed from cyst. Yellow Grub (Clinostomum sp.). Cream-colored cysts found in many parts of the body

50

contain larval flukes (about 1/2" long). Numerous at times, the yellow grub emerges if the cyst is broken in water. Remove cysts from flesh; clean fish and prepare as usual. White Grub (Hysteromorpha sp.). Smaller and lighter colored than the yellow grub. These larval flukes are most often found in bullheads. Remove cysts from flesh; clean fish and prepare as usual.

Broad Fish Tapeworm (Diphy/lobothrium sp.). Larval form of tapeworm is found in fish; develops into adult in the intestine of humans or other mammals and therefore is harmful to humans if not killed by cooking or freezing. Symptoms of infection in humans include nausea, vomiting, weakness, dizziness, and diarrhea. Tapeworms can attain lengths of 10' to 30'. Found most commonly in northern pike, but can occur in walleye and yellow perch. Destroyed by normal cooking and hot smoking to 140° F and by freezing for 48 hours at 0° F. Cold smoking and pickling without either cooking or freezing the fish may not kill tapeworm.

18

internal parasites 20

Black spots under the skin or in the flesh. Black Spot. See number 9. Whitish, segmented, flat worms found in intestine of fish.

19

Bass Tapeworm (Proteocephalus sp.). Most common in large- and smallmouth bass but may be encountered in trout, perch, pike, and carp. Adults are found in the intestine; larvae may invade reproductive organs. Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual. White, glistening, usually unencysted worm about 1" to 1 1/2" long found in the muscle of fish. May be coiled and encysted.

51

21

White Grub (Posthodiplostomum minimum and Uvulifer sp.). These larval flukes occasionally occur in large numbers. Primary hosts are members of the sunfish and minnow families. They have never been reported in humans. Another larval fluke (Metorchis conjunctus), however, has been reported infecting humans. M. conjunctus is also a liver fluke found mostly in white suckers. Usually removed with viscera. Thorough cooking kills this parasite. White, unsegmented, flat worms tapered at both ends. Have thick, fleshy bodies and are uncommonly large. Found free in the body cavity. May create abdominal bulge.

Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual.

24

Ribbon Tapeworm (Ligula sp.). A larval tapeworm found in minnows, carp, suckers, and some other fish. Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual. 22

No illustration. White, thread-like worms lying on or moving through the internal organs.

Larval Tapeworm. These tapeworms are not. found in cysts. Numerous worms may infect the ovaries of bass. Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual. Roe can be cleaned by removing worms with tweezers before preparing.

23

Spiny-Headed Worm (Acanthocephala). Most adult acanthocephalans live inside the intestine and are usually not seen by anglers. Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual.

25

Round, transparent cysts on the internal organs, typically on the liver.

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White or orange worms in body cavity, attached to the inside of the intestine.

Irregular white cysts in or on the internal organs.

Larval Spiny-Headed Worm or Larval Tapeworm. These cysts are larger, whiter, and not as round as those described in No. 23.

Roundworm (Contracaecum and Eustrongylides sp.). These larval roundworms are edible. Found on the internal organs or the wall of the body cavity.

Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual.

26

Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual.

27b

See illustration 27a. Tiny gold-brown cysts on the internal organs.

Larval Roundworm. Often found in great numbers, these cysts give a sandy appearance to a fish's entrails. The kidney roundworm (Dioctophyma sp.), found in the body cavity and viscera of bullheads and northern pike may infect humans. Thorough cooking kills this parasite. Fibrous or fatty structures.

Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual.

tissue in well-defined, ball-like 28

Cause unknown. These tumors are infrequently found in the muscle, body cavity, or internal organs of fish. The cause of most of these tumors is unknown, but disease-causing organisms are usually not involved. Edible. Remove growth; clean fish and prepare as usual. 27a White, undulating worms emerging from ruptured intestine. Intestinal worms. Adult flukes, tapeworms, roundworms, and spinyheaded worms are not normally seen by anglers unless the intestine is accidently cut in cleaning. Edible. Clean fish and prepare as usual. Coiled (like a watch spring) worms encysted on the internal organs.

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list of terms Bacteria —includes a large group of one-celled microscopic organisms. Although bacteria cannot be seen with the naked eye, the signs of bacterial infection usually are readily visible. Cestode-see TAPEWORM. Copepod —member of a group of small crustaceans. It is very abundant in aquatic systems and commonly used as food by fish. Although most copepods are free swimming, those mentioned here are parasites of fish. Cyst —a nonliving sheet-like structure enclosing a parasite. The sheet-like structure or membrane may be produced by the host, the parasite, or both. Fluke—another name for trematodes that are found in fish. These parasites have flattened worm-like bodies, and larval stages often produce wart-like cysts in and on fish. For this reason many anglers call them grubs. Fungus—minute thread-like plants that lack chlorophyll. Common in fresh water, most fungi grow on many types of decaying organic matter. Fungi usually attack fish only when the skin has been injured through abrasion or other parasites. Grub-see FLUKE. Larva—an immature stage between egg and adult. Many parasites may go through a number of life stages and hosts before becoming adults. Nematode-see ROUNDWORM. Parasite —an organism that lives on or in another organism (host) and depends upon the host for its food. Protozoa —single-celled organisms of the lowest division in the animal kingdom. Although a few may be seen with a magnifying glass, a microscope is required to see most species. Not all protozoa are parasites.

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Roundworm —another name for a class of organisms known as nematodes. They have round elongated bodies tapering at both ends and lack segmentation and suckers. They are among the most common of fish parasites. There are free living (nonparasitic) as well as parasitic roundworms. Spiny-Headed Worm —a common name for a group of parasitic worms called Acanthocephalans. Usually under 1 1/2 inches long, they live in the digestive tract of various animals. Tapeworm —as adults, tapeworms (otherwise known as cestodes) are white, flattened, segmented worms, inhabiting the intestine. Some tapeworms occur only as larvae in fish and develop into adults in other animals such as predatory fish, birds, and mammals. All tapeworms are parasitic. Trematode —see FLUKE.

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