Floyd's India

S c a nned&Conv er t edt oPDFbyF F Cc ot t a ge Map of India 6 The Recipes 50 Introduction 7 Madame Masala 54 Lett...

Author: Keith Floyd

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S c a nned&Conv er t edt oPDFbyF F Cc ot t a ge

Map of India 6

The Recipes 50

Introduction 7

Madame Masala 54

Letter from India 10

Thali 76

Rice 64

Kerala &Cochin 12

Chicken 86

Goa 22

Tandoori 100

Madras 26

Fish 112

Bombay 34

Meat 132

Rajasthan 38

Vegetables 150

Calcutta and West Bengal 44

Chutneys, Pickles and

The Punjab 48

Relishes 172 Sweets and Drinks 182 Index 190

•Madras Chennal

K ERALA Codlin•

ski LANKA

Inchon Ocean

ntrod uction 11 7

once upon a. time a 14-year-old boy caught a perch in a lake near Bishop's Lydcard in Somerset. It was late summer. eady 71Illmn. There were blackberries in the hedgerows and

r

Iteechnms underfoot. In his tackle hag

Site,:

the young angler had a loaf of stale

„bread from the (Softie. Hill bakery in Wivcliscombe. This he soaked in _ ter to make small pellers of bread paste for bait. He had cycled 12 in before dawn ro be at the lake. sunrise. By noon his keep no tontained six perch, one coin.. carp and TWO small tench. Contented. he opened the.addle hag on his bicyle to take out the dwiches that his father had pmpared. The thermos /Ink of soiree was ere with a mist of blue sup, paper with sugar inside, hut not the dwichcs. He had forgot ten the picnic. bur he did have a packet of ()Nelson filncr-tipped cigarette and a box of Swan marches. With his sheath knife he scaled. de-finned and gutted a couple of perch. c cur some twigs from a tree and made thing, that later in life he vexed were kebab sticks. He picked blackberries and shelled beechnuts stuffed them into the soaked stale bread. then he formed the bread into cries and toasrol them over a fire of pine nines. He speared the fish on twigs and vt cross-legzed 2, he held them over the fire until they were cooked. With his hands. he ate the scorched fruit-and-nut-stulTed bread

•

patties and succulent morsels of barbecued perch. A hundred years later, by the mast bizarre route. that boy became a restaurateur and what is obscenely called, nor only obscenely bur totally without justification. a relev ■ sion celebrity chef. Over Ill or 1

7 years he

travelled the world. eating, cooking and learning matching the legs being

ripped off live Frogs in a

Singapore marker,

drinking the Mood and the sdB-

pulsaring heart of a cobra in Viernarn, cooking salmon fishakes wrapped in pig's caul in Northern Irefirtid. staring car the Southern Cross in the top end of Australia, eating ribs orbse{ and /icing in fear of being bitten

by

king brown lone of The worid's most pnisonous snakes - Australia has eight our of ten of the most poisonous ones). He cooked pasta in Bologna. couscous in Morocco. moussaka in Creme. iantbalaya in New Orleans, paella in Spain. bouillabaisse in France. dumplings in Prague, goulash in Budapest, puffins in the Arctic Circle. hem no the Russian border, carp in Czechoslavakia hog's pudding and lava bread in Wales. salmon and haggis on the banks of the river Tay. Nib perch stuffed with raisins and nom in Luxor. and Freshwater crayfish rooked in beer in Sweden nn a mad midsummer nighr. He prepared tomyang kum in Bangkok and beef rendang in Kotabura in Malaysia, sowed wildebeest in a

paiki pm in

Zambia. cooked cakes and schnitzels in Vienna. cooked pig's trotters Icruboans) and bacon and cabbage in Cork city, and the rest and more. Weary of airpons and hotel lobbitn. taxis and studios, absurd locations and television directors. producers and hook editors who know absol u rely bog all about the subject (except Mar it is poptslar)lnoruc novtgl Eekl, this boy - who is now a man but still remembers being 14 anti remembers the words of Confucius, 'Give a man a fish and he will live for a day, teach a man so Pub and he will hoe f aver'-his had enough. He decides to move to the Mediterranean, where the olive, the kmnn, the tomato, the aubergine and the wine are the lc-web in the glittering culinary crown. Then, one fine day. he gets a fax. 'Go and do a series on India', it says don's know anything about India'. he replies. 'I )on't worry', they say.

'We wvll send

you all the inforrnarion. All you have ro do is pop on to a

plane and get cooking.' And SO they Jid.'Hte facts as presented . me by Nick Parcen, my director. and my esteemed researcher, Rol Ran, I have incorporated into ray letter from India thar scans on page I 2..

Letter from India Kerala...sketches from coconut country The big orange sun is rising slowly, llfominaring she hazy morning,. the plane begins seri. of long. slow, gentle so.nops downwards no Cochin airport in rite soothen, Indian or of Kerala. Endless coconut plauratis,hirarner grey-silver. slam and green. don 5 411 washes throng], whisps of cloud old beams on endless meandering waterways, eke rnately gold and sits., stretching faraway. On the dopes there are ▪

and tea plantations_ Whitewashed comonia] Portuguese or Dosch churches ore

scattered In clearing,. Neat villas and verandahed larmitouses pop up in shafts of bright sunlight. Cows, bullocks and goats wander across *mina dried-up deltas char criss-cross rho verdant landscape. The swissIng waterways and lagoons giro way to huge wide rivers and antics. erg runing ships glide lazily along, while alIntanner of brightly coloured femmes. fishing boats and traditional craft. lanteen-rigged. double e nded. high prows and sterns sweeping up like a cobra poised ro strike, sail serenely. outrageously overladen with mountains of hay or sculpted pyramids of coconuts, procarhousiy but precisely stacked. edging steadily into harbour. Al the plane sweeps low over the water for its final approach, I can sec loIncloth. clad. sinewy men throwing big circular nets from the tiny narrow canoes under the long concrete bridge that the spans Tho ynoiolord and Willingdon Nand- The bridge is mooting...Oh pedcwiaus, mimetic- coloured tuittsks and brightly painc,d, oven lade.. 'scud, OM high with hessian sacks of rice and pepper, cucohots or bananas.

On top of their cargo. their harks to the oncoming traffic, sir the workers. huddled against the morning smog and dust, thcir mouths wrapped in bright bandannas_ Even at this early hour. the air A hot and slightly choking as we walk across the rarnmc of the neat yellow airport. The runways are fringed with coconut palms and, although quire new, the airport buildings boo the quaint. unburned an of a genteel colonial outpost. You present papers. rickets, passport and boarding cards several diner ro offibats. soldiers and policemen. They are polite, insisrant and bewildering. Behind the harder in she baggage hall hard routs, porters, relatives. more !oldie.. .xi drives, noes, hippies and bawls joule. In the confusion I am on by two. hut rival. chauffeurs, each sent by a different company ro pick op Tess. my wife. and me and our I? pieces of luggage. A polite man in a safari shin and pressed chinos, carrying a clipboani and briefcase...ides the dispute.' Mink! But do I pay in too? One driver will take Tess and me. and the other our luggage. but nor before our nulleys have bean hijacked by about six itinerant ponces. Lesson once mnybundles of small dcnomination notes or hold 011M your luggagc like hell and, more importandy. make sum the man who 1.1)1 he is hereto escort you is genuine: They all want so take you somewhere, so don's arrive drunk or you may end up anywhere! The acne! view I had enjoyed as we came into land appears. Bur soon we are beaming along the centre left or risks of the road. charging at oncoming window. less, garish buses hkr a wounded buffalo or swerving past on Mc inside of furne.belching trucks and weaving craaily between the screams of tuktuks. scooters and motorbikes. wildly and narrowly missing the oxen. buffaloes. cows a nd goats (goats, aka mutton. non Iamb, on menus/. Hugc clephants. carrying their breakfast under their trunks - they <mahout 300 kilograms of fodder pet day - pad morosely towards their daily toil And all don whdc our driver. Johnny P.J. on I name to know him in Mc course of

our visit), has his hand Brrnly pruned on his fm one horn. HOE up a fag. my first for hours.shur my ere!. and hope for she hest. The tossing, turning, jolting. stornads-churning jeep slows down. After nearly an hour of relatively rapid progress, we arc entering the morning rush in Cochin. Tha din. mayhem and confusion is inkmal. yet strangely peaceful. Thera is a gentle feeling. Brightly clad women and neatly uniformed school kids wilt steadily along In dusty streets. The stalls and shops no sleepily opening. Mud forecourts no being swaps wish short-handled stick brush.. Vic traffic is, in ram, not aggressive, it is rust the noise from their horns, not the drivers themselves. It seems to be a cam offer live. In die, bur withum nmlice of any kind. I ask Johnny P.I. if he knows somewhere good where we can stop for breakfast. He shakes his head sideways, and a kw moments later pulls up in Irons of a singlestore building on the cornet of a very enawckd 1VIty are we mopping?' I ask. 'You said bteakfass:

lrOe nom wad

13

'Hass. you said No. Imply. He shakes his head sideways again. I am beginning 10 undermand. He opens the door 21114 we duck inns the low doorway of the Hotel Unikrishna. Abovr faded reel formica tables on spindly and reecenr metal leggs rbree-winged fans spin lazily from srretched wires astir the fetid 24, while chaltering loinclorhed men 'gear. righwbandedly caring their breakfam. Wairers, buret-nos or in sandals, carry meaning tin plates_ In a cerner behind a ramshackle barrivcar (teal boys juggle wish iong-spouted tin teapots, a huge um of boiling milk and a cauldron of boiling water, pouring both milk and to from a great height simultanommly into glasses and fin mugs with the panache of a Nov York city cocksaii barman. I ha, not been able sr take curried eggs seriously as a dish bccause ceche- Goon Show catch phrases No muse curried eggs lee me', bur hard-boiled eggs masaLa — with a curry 77114e — served with uppanto (a cake of sicamed scowl -ma muffed with curry lama, runmard seeds and chillies) and coconut and coriander chutney Cue page 1741 is a terrific way ca wars the day. l In fact. / was so ta ken with spicy vegetarian Indian hreakfasss char I did not cat a Europerwsisie breakfast For she entire- eiso and a balfmonrhs of my visic) There are other good dishes too, such as idli, a-steamed rice- sponge cake served wish vegerable mauls, chickpeas. lenrils and potatoes in a rich onion and sommr-based grasp. appam. a rice flour pancake with spicy potatoes simmered in inns milk mid chilli= and idapparn, thin rice paadics garnished with grated fiesh commis, sensed wish black bean mauls. These and many. many other dishes are available for an average cost of a few pennies. I drink fresh lime juice wish coda and wilt (if you like weer drinlo, shin honey can subsrinned Fox Mesabi The tea, nude among and with hot hailed milk, is too rich

Id

L41141 limn Ionia

for mt. There area dozen cooks in the lean•ro shack Mat is the kitchen. It is fiercely hot and gloomy. with lust a single light bulb hanging from the ceiling. Before a long low stone. - I....ugh which blazes a fire fuelled by wood • Loconut husks. the cooks squat. swanning • huge brass or aluminium pots, sliming contents.111cy wear only a small piece of grubby sheet tied around Their waist. In another corner a boy sits Lion-legged. peeling and chopping a mountain of tiny. rangy red shallots. On makeshift griddles over wood lives. cooks are rolling out pancakes..111tirons bubble and gurgle. and steam 1. 1.1 chokingly into the ceiling with the acrid tame of eye-watering wood smoke The tin plates, once empty. are rinsed under a cold waxer rap mourned on the wall above an open drain- A yeri.ble black culinary hob of Cochin and not a place for the weak-stomached or the faint.hearted. After breakfasr we visit the banana market and the produce market. which is dins, flyinfested and stinking like the fetid, polluted river Styx. yet peopled by brightly dressed, cheerful shoppers who stare curiously. uncomprehendingly or no as I do she dim, tor's bidding. For rumple. buying a bunch of curry leaves four times from the same stalk holder, who has clearly not been on relevision course — much to the frustntion of ;Dick, the diregior — and, instead of -obediently serving rue in this absind way (with no °planation as to why). keeps looking at the camera.; cardinal sin in a director's cy.! Just as rho stallholder has recovered from this bizarre intrusion into his daily business. Kim, our stills photographer. manifests himself from behind the bewildered C(01.1 of onlookers and mks bins to repeat the proms. 'Please. jmt for me, if you don't mmel.Thank you: lie clicks the rho itcr. The man relaxes.

teller 100. , 51. 15

'b., one more, please, No, please doort look ar dine:mem Fur look ar Mr. Floyd.' I can sense hint Thinking, 'Who

A Mr. Floyd'.

'Thanks, lovely. Ern just going to change the 1[719: 1 can hear roc man thirkluss 'Change the lens. For a bunch of curry leaves! Why 'Terrific, thank you. Now It but do a wide angle. No. don't look at the camera. Jost explain to Mr. Floyd the joy of unk.: (aside ro me, -,,Vhar are chose things?) 'Corry leave,' 'Oh, yes, ran,/ leaves: 'Thank you' Through./ the hot, hazy afternoon we cramp round ro tilt pepper orchange, take tokruk rides and shoot emotive pieruros oEshis bugling nit, As the sun !nil ns so sink even Big Mike, the camerman. is wilting under the weight of his camera and the oppressive heat. Gratefully. we clamber in co our vehicles and head, albeit slowly, through dense cacophonous mai' rn and the screaming pedestrians back ro rho Iranlliry of our hoick a bath, change of clothes, a sriffdrink and di nue, We hake ban unveiling and working since 3.001m. and by 9.04m everyone in the crew has gone to bed. Tomorrow we scan at 4.00ain. From the balcony of our room, I. overlook the outlerolihe Vembanad Lake,which flows inro rho Arabian Sea. Across the sound, the lighthouse flashes its pale light, occasTonally illuminating a ghouly container ship slipping out on the. night tide rn the Middle Ent. Africa and beyond. The rooks char charrered so hosehly io the redflowered Mayflower trees as asleep and odes. and a SWIldry guard in a neatly pressed uniform is !caning against a tree having a smoke as he stares 9,055 the black water , 1 Enish my drink and climb happily ink, a cool. Rene bed_ Si warred along I'ndia'n south wesmoast, Kerala 'o a lush, green cur:pie-al paradise. From the fabled Malabar Spice Com, it stretches east to the mountain peaks of she Western Ghats. Kerala is 603 kilonserres Inng hut only 75 kilometres wide a, its broadest point. The interior is riddled

inland waterway, known as the backwaters,

CRIcr.ding )Torn the coast far inland and, as is Venice, these act as roads. Houses and

schools are built on the banks and people navel by hoar and buraring wares buses. ThRC RT.-. arc fill ofeocontet paten and paddy 6elds — rice is Krrald'snvin grain and

eatenevery at meal. indeed, Kerala means 'Land of duCo Coconuts'.and coconut is a common flaroming iu the local food. Anosher widespread rror is the curry leaf tree whose sweet and spicy leaves give she local dishes a disrinenve aromatic flavour. The

lm-al 11as-flutings of totemic and spices are combi ned with incr. fish and vegetables in &she, such as prawn ularchiyarhu (prawns in comma, milk). beef ularthiyadm la dry beef curry), or vegetable stew (called mall, rraditionally garnished with quickly fried fresh curry leaves 4see pages 114. 134 and 1551. The cosurasr benkeen rhe liSSIC commanitiesand. villages clustered along the watet's edge, or in clnrodcomponods under the coconut palms. =Id cashew trees, and ducky

14

lager Irani lead®

la strikingly vivid.The shallow waterways arecovered in lilies and.. you glide pasi the link seLdernents with their nen gardens of vegnabks and the black pigs, chickens, dusk., and goais munching in the undergrowth, kid, are playing cricket with hony made ban add booboo stia: Women. waist-deep in ware, beat and rinse the washing. Met throw nets loom narrow canoed. Huge. brilliant kingfishers swoop like M irage iust above the tranquil water and nilgiri birds- known. the-laughing thrush - ecmch hysredcally in the rich, Tangled bamboo. School children. immaculate in blue shoos or skirts. white shirts and Nue ries. clamber on to the little-ferries that cross the river to take them home from school. While nice and coconuts an the main crops. on An higher mound grow the more valuable coif= tca, cocoa. rubber, pepper and cardamom. Kerala is the 'Immo( many spices and these have liSracked merchan t from all oacr thc oodd. Ir is t h e nahlral habit. of black peppo and cardamum and singe , and osmotic are oho grow, India poaddm one third of the world's pepper vld mud] of it corn. Fern Kerala. Before

India in the 16th century, the Indians only had pepper m hat up their dithes. There is a interesting wholesale spice market in Cochin and the city alsc has the distinction of having die fast church built by Europeans in India, St Francis Church. which was starred in 1503. Tropicd (nits are also abundant in Kerala, in particular pineapples and bananas. including rho rare redskinned variety that is supposed to be good for your hnIth. All An while. nlinost in a drum. I am siting on the shaded deck of a highly polished and varnished den barge, sipping a cool beer under a lazy Fan. waiting for my laical a-cabbage and mustard seeds cooked in coconut milk, beetroot with chillns, fresh misonut bread and chicken. This long, elegant ctafr once transported rice and fruits, nuts, bananas. hay or building materials The length and breadth of the area. In former times the hulls were fastened with coconut twine Not a river or a the Porru,nese in tEoduced chillies into

tarter from Ind. 17

tnr,ai fmteomg was used and, on the open strockes. a s]rtgle. hug. pregnant rail drew them gracefully along.Today,we drift gently along with a 25 hp outboard motor fixed on the side, and where once she rice was stored, Lk., a, now quaint, charming. wooden bedrooms and a plant potted in a brags urn This is pQradiu_ Or, tarher, it would be LIE did not have re do pieces to camera and pose, cherrfully, thoughtfully, happily or excitedly as I deliver what are supposed tn be words rich in informachnn, with wit and anshudasm, and describe my food wirhout speaking with my mourh fidl.orhavinga (..e OK, Ws one hell of a job. But, as they say,sorneene has to do it. Lourni ng suddenly round the hood is a h ugc floating Ivy rick 6 or 7 metres high, amazingly piled on co a narrow-beamed. I 2-meat shoe boar.Thchay overhangs the bulwarks either side. It has been loaded on ro the boat with incredible precision and it passes us With*. thr sl ighnesr wobble nr oven the r01101057 Chance that it could topple over. One man is sitting smoking an the long-necked prow, another sits in the a rent. his feet trailing in the water es he steers dm tiny outboard anginc than prorls Ihcamel.

IR Less, from mere

Apart CM. some hi eds laughing in she jungle and the lap of the water rushing under du hull, all is peaceful, Bugger she director. F think have a fag and 2 _slurp. The deck hand placcs a bottle of lndiao whisky, a bottle of mineral water and a bucker flare on the mahogany table. The sun is going down fast over the Chinese fishing nets, their cadaver.us cantilever limbs Loom in a sinister way like huge praying mantises in the Fur-falling dusk_ The coastline is cloned 'vial these vast fishing nett that seem introduced ro the acea by mei-chains in the time of Kuhlai Khan. Consisting of five teak gobbs siting up TO 30 Illettng in the air, they scoop up fish as they swim by at high tide. The nets arc considered so valuable than brides' families even offer them as dowsic, in marriage. Fish b the spegialivy here and mak. up a Inge parr of the Kerr]. dint- Munambarn Harbote is theism:anion °rancor the manylc..I fish aucrio. Fishing boors that left in the middle of the night mann in the late afternoon...she sun cane its golden evening hue over the Arabi. Sea_ Bost, crowd the docks, five or six deep. and as soon as the day's such hiss the I.d the auction scans. The noise is terrific 25 buyers shunt onh prices and fishermen haggle over thc value ofrhe catch. The nearby prawn factory has no mechanisation at all. About 160 women squat on the ground, peeling prawns 2t I ightsming sized and caning them into differenr sixes. They are paid 1,v:right-so they wield their sharp kniveswirh superb precision and can peel up TO (k. prawns a minute. Sono the idyll is over and it is rime ro stair the nab for which 1 have travelled to India to learn to .cook Indian food. At 9.00am. non days Lacer, I present myself 10 the .ocadve thefof F. luxury Tai Malabar horn] on AXIL i ngdon Island. M.A, Rasheed (where 1 am, of emirs,. staying in unbridled huniry with Tees and the rest of the gang), put on my apron and begin to Learn about I-nasal. Talk about walking GYM hot coals. more like walking ewer hoc chillies! ••,s

•.

••

Fong, r■ ., brain

.9

and 11 e.1, la a My learn a ma.11,0 ne enu.se na,

Cochin

20 Lotter -from India

Goa From Kerala we went nth — to (Spa. There we had a lot of fun on our brief visit. We stayed at the Tat Fort Ague& beach coon where we were given a fabulous bungalow which dud been butt. along with several others. specificity for Malting hinds of state fora Commonwealth conferencemmeyean previously. I was quite fielded to be given the bungalow that Mrs Thatcher had stayed in. This was the second Lime our virtual paths had crown'. The last time was in the bodero (.114n) of Gonzales Byas in Jerez, Spain where 1 was invited to sign a barrel in the hall of fame adjacent 10 a barrel signed by Mn T. Piene note this is not a sign of my political leaning, in any sense of the word. but I think it is about rime she came back as the President of Great Britain. Goa is a tropical idyll with superb sandy bashes, which have made it a favourite winter sun destination. Galva Beach. 21. kilometres of pure white sands, is one of south Asia's most spectacular beaches. The beaches are, however. only pan of the picture. Inland is a lush patchwork of paddy fields and cocornm cashew and Aiwa plthlarions. Further east are the jungle-covered hills of the Western Ghats and the drier Deccan Plateau. The Dinihsagar waterfall on the CoMKamataka horde, is the second highest watmfall in India —WO messes from top to bottom. The tiny stare of Goa feels quite sliffermu from the rest of India. due to the fact that for ai I years. whik the rest of India was under Mogul and British rule. Goa was a Portuguese stronghold. The 'mate nce of the Portuguese occupation is plain to see through the charming brightly painted villas and farmhouses in the merry towns and villages. It is this southern European influence that is said to account for du difimence in the primal attitude of its people and the food that they mt. Whereem you go. you can find mares of Pornagomc domination_ The food bknds a Latin love of (Mat and

nee., teareee

fish with India's predilection for spices. on add vinegar to many dishes, giving them a very distinctive Favour. Alcohol is also prevalent — more than 6,000 bars amund the scale are licensed m serve sdeohol, including the Local brew. reel. a rocker fuel spirit d isi Med from coconut sap or cashew frisk. Away from the coast arc tree ruins of Ehe Portuguese capital Old Goa. a sprawl of Catholi: . ■ hedrals, conven, and rharchcs ihar drAWS Christian pilgrims from all over India. Soaring above Sheranopy o F palm poets, the colossal. cream cathedral /oe, w belfaie and dome: welco me yuu ont ofrhe +11,91 groups,,! Renaissance arc hitecture in the wood_ Further

inland, The rhi.ckly wooded non ruyside around

Panda harbours Itualerou3 temples_ SO,: Lave. Away, been one of the area: principal exports, even berme the Porthgneseartived. and there are :even) large :picr plantations around Fonda 'hat can he visited. .Festivals celebrated in Goa include Id-ul-Fin. in JanuaryfFebrualy, a Muslim fean to celebrate the end of Ramadan: the carnival in February/Much. which 'is three days of FenAnduced mayhem. and Shigrno. held in FehmarylMarch. This is Cioa's version of the Hindi holy fesUval held over thcfull moon period to mark thennsr

nF

spring. It includes procession', of floats. music and dancing. ma well as the usual throwing of paint bombs.

Lour hum l ■-■-d.a

23

In Goa is is quite Fenny It, sec Thar the pony-wiled. bandanna-wearing Bower children of rho sixth, are now in their sikries and still haying a bail, although the pony tails have turned grey. or indeed rvhire, h siras boor that we inn a couple or cxrellent occenrrLus. Derck and Beryl— heft refired srockb roker of die old school. and 13cry I who was just lovely, kind, cheerful and rorally passionate about India and the Indians. They spent six mondis of every year travelling throughout India. Matsu they were such long.sranding suss. of the hard. they were accorded all kinds of privileges. one of which was an outrageously delicious mango chutney sent down from MunrhaL specifierdly for their toe. Sri, every nighr we would meet for evening [En —I don't cam what you think tiffin is, ask, as l am concerned ifs a lugs Bombay Sapphi N gin with is and flesh limn — and dove.. a pile of freshly mark poppadoms coveted in the best chutney I have ever Lasted. Oh. and by the way, talking about food. I recommend ro you two great Goan diahos. the Goan lobster curry (see page 12.91 and t h e beef or chicken vindaloo (sec page 139. a dish that bears no relationship m the ones rhar we all used to eat with a belly full of beer on Saturday nights many years ago.

Madras (now known as Chennai) Barg n, the sixties in England. office dross code was Iclaxed on Sara rdav5 and you ■ ,u I d do your morning's work wearing a sports jacket ore blazer instead of the

Monde-so-Friday suit. Chaps Tended to wear their sports club tics and hastened quickly Through their desks ro be in rho Whirr EIrphara by 12.30prn. The,. mod M their dozens. Lit bp at their feet. foaming pion in hand. Boys drank I.PA, the men drank Worthington E Objective: to down 23 many pints as possible before piling into old bangers or shiny M.G.a and heading For one of the many Brigol Combing. on Rugby Football grounds where. in The amicable brutality of Club Rugby 13ristol Combination srylel they would, in the hot and PATEty scrum. gag on the Worthingion-favoured farts. throw ups half.time. or an orange and have 2 quick dragon a Senior or a Nelson. After you had lost and taken she corn munal bath. d plornatic relations were restated between the two sides. Bruised and broken. as one they piled back Uno she motors and headed off to the manorial ground to wata the no 1 5 minutes nf nriatol thrashing Cardiff or Llanelli. Harlsquins or Coven, and, clutching rm., pints, ,inu woold wonder why Bill Redwood and John Slake had nor been ,I,cr,d for the England side. As rime .sent hr. the her got honer, tales of Rugby daring got voices w2re

pion were :pat,

and birds were e,d Inot not pulled berauw they were fur tilegr,aL

men rat the Rd..] lot \l'_ In ■ how,min2

halcyon day, Rd:L.1w. in Glun‘a-ateLAi,, and th, pub, an, err

10.30pm. but. niithne, away, actosn the Clifton suspension bridge was Somerset. where the apiendid hortelde,,tayed open until 11.00pm and there was rho possibility that the 6n: fiord niLghr just serve one more afro rime as he rang she bell. Everybody.

26 Loner from Indio

by now. was in complete elisuray. Evcrybexiy had probably drunk between 10 and 29 nuns of beer siriec the first dignified pinyin the WI fro Elepihmr. Two nr ■ Iva would have Fallen by the wayside, quire lirera3ly. some of the sensible ones would have returned to their wines. bur the dingle guys were hung, A leader einerges as a time uf C -45 - 1.- ...M.h. One who :moden the rabic. pinyin haml. ties unknoerni. shin linden, who, bright eyed and calf ed out 'Who's for the Cur, House' And K. ,erIce apin, we piled back in ro the vehicles, more crowded rhan before because one or two had disappeared, and headed hack over the Clifton suspension bridge. down to the city centre, past rhe bus Mei. and along so Soak. Croft wluoe a flicker ing yellow neon sign announced the C[iSicnu of the Koh I Naar Indian Restaurant. 'unclothe di rung roorn.with .14 tables standing on a slightly sticky, thichcarpod each table had a !lightly soiled but very sduched tablecloth. The wade were [P.C.-Cd in tawdry flock and the exhausted.. hors. in their stained dinner jackets whirl, were almost a deep. dark green through years of wear, odjwicEl their clip-on bow tide and prepared for the onslaught-They had @Pair of unlined acquiescence. Each table uan dressed simply with nsdr and mire, pot and a :taint., steel sugar bowl filled with white sugar lumps_ The was for —Ed.,. that% ail there really was —sir chicken vindalno, nine mean Madras, font plates of evil smelling. deep.fried. crispy Bombay dark and mango chutney and, of course. 15 pines °Hager. The bewildered waitcr more din outer on a series of Unleduplinec pads and headed for the kitchen only to beaked back by the blue-cyed fiv-hadwirb tinkly blond hair, who was miningro be an aceou nem,. and from bin position of authority or. the main table he would say, 'Make that dB pines: Evenunddr, on white plates, the pungent curries and mountains of plain boded sire arrived. There was. of course, not enough cheap gainless 5..C. [WIC, to go emend. The Madras was hot, fiery and acrid. the di ndalcm was dhloofcnl. ate by one. chaps would go to the bog buo one by one, rhos didn't anon heave the old bands knew that- o.PVL could climb our of the v. indow red then you wouldn' t have to pay youmhare of the bill_ -So, every Satmday nigh/ uar a mad Madras nigh, Well, dear reader, that was in another rime. irwas beForelndianmetaurants became a culinary force ro be reek° nnd wirh. before silver leaf garnished Fragrant biryanis. It was before Karain had ever heard of a nndoor oven. but lit was at a Ume nix so Long after India gained independence from G rear Britain and the country was still awash wirh ex-colonials who waned to continue eating their meal Madras or chicken Madras and their Bombay duck. In realist, the conceprof a meal Much. curdely figment of the British imagination. but that is something 11.mr lunch later in life_ In the meantime. and hoping to fulfil some kind of youthful g.tronomic holy grail, I left the wen coast Kill of aneicipation for my visit to Madras. But, they've changed the named., okay, Medms was the tint importanr British set denim in India and yes. quite correctly, the India. band given it back its original name. Chennai, hut now nat. you now go inns your favourite curry shop after a hard game and say, h meat Chenhais and 30 pines of lager, pleased Lot. from Ind. 27

Chennal is India's founh largest ciny.thecapital of Tamil Nadu. It it a young city by Indian standards. lu fouodatino in the nth anon, by the East India coop, also markoi the foundation irfthe I3riEish empire_ When the Innification - called r.“ Sr George - was completed in 1640 the wall, protected the Part India Company'.

fart., and mho Emnpran nadir, sofirments. Its for El...was to serve af a low For British agents to prevent local merehano controlling the price

of good.. It later

became the ci ty of Madras. As it grew. the local Tamil people ass gned the name C.hranal tc the city. whereas the British stuck to Madras. In recent years. however. it has been decided that the offteiil name of the cityshould be Chennai. The gin,. is the home ofcurry powder, which was originally developed in Madras for the nostalgic British wishing to re-capture the flavours of I mita after they rnurned home from the Raj. Huge quantities of curry powder arc still manufactured in machines dwr rerembleconcretenaers, but it isall for capon. No Indian covk would dream of using British buildings dominate the arm. The Ice House was built m morn is imported from Bonmn until it was toed to cool the gin and tonics ofshr British ,olden. The Madras Ciub WS built as a plane when the Britith elite could drink the G et Ts. The chief reminder of colonial days. howown is the High Court, the largest court of law building in the world outside London. To the south. 20 hroanoofnarrew lanes form the eity's largest market. Kothawal Chavach, which includes a colourful fruit and Hower section. On the 0111dUrt, of the ciry is Asia's biggest film studio complex. just beyond the iawsol-a fake shark which grads MC R Film City. On this enormous site. funded by the state government. are 36 sem standing ready for use. Toimnts me some. nmes ingned to be orporiglly in liaj-era films. Now, in the inter.ning 40 yea. between eating my first meat Madras and my firm visa to Chomai. I have learned a lot and I certainly was not expecting to find an

28 Lone, horn I ndla

bor.,

srme,

authentic mrac Madras in Madras, any more than 1 would orptcr so find a spaghetti Bolognese in Bologna or a chop scary in kkiring. Thrsc, and many other internation. ally known dishes a., again, concoctions created by bewildered ea-patriots. I did. however. ewe:ton find errquisLte food. but I was disappointed. As with all big cirrus the wothr. ovr, it is hard— not bp Say nearly impossible-10 find the gastronomic heart of that plzee. I stayed at the Connemara Hotel where they had a specialist restaurant devoted so the Cheninad cuisine, which is fiery, hot and spicy and should he delicous. but II was not.

lJzi ng allthe resources available rte me, I sought out the ..,ealled good o-staurruc. 1.11, quite frankly, you will probably ear beam in Southall or Birmingham, and that is

not to m ention how hard ir is to p. up with the inc,orAblc povary and squalor which gi.es hi nh co begging and harassment. So then you ha, rook

are

finding this 5o offensice, why are you heir in the first place. Will, this fact is the cooking in India :an be one oCrhe great expericrica of life but iris best enjoyed ar the home

or

rids tar prim- they might be. They amt their produce with such love and such cam. They prepare than ramsalas with the same sort of love with

which V. Gogh must have inked big nil:. I spent some time ter a magnificent palace where a family cif four or six people were attended by over two hundred staff. The dichotomy lies in the Fact that the pa. ean't afford to car in restaurants. so More arc hut absolutely fundamentally bade equalid soup kitchens, while the rich arc so well off they can afford co have CO.OhY ter home, so no matter what you read in the othrnviu absolute!, essential Lonely Nan, Gni& 1,7 hodia, rake their nstaorant entries with a pinch of chillies. 11,no do cat in the wrens OF a ny of the big three cities, Chennai. Calcutta and Murnbai, and you choose a plaue win vecy,cry busy, you will usually eat well for a kw ptnnies.cen or diner.

latter from in,.

29

However. if you arc in °tension make a point of eating at Hotel Sawa. BhananTh Ls is the ultimate in Indian Fast food restaurants. They have a menu of oner three hundred different dishes- mostly vegetarian. They serve up to 4.000 meal, a- day lay the way, it is not a ham'. the word 'hotel' in many parts of India means restaurant tar canteen). You get a tray on which are eight- nine or ten little dishes. hot, sour, k is called a &al'. (see page 7(11 and the first person who replicates this brilliant concept Lin rnanys.says nor di_ssimila, to Spanish wpm). in London will make a fortune and cna as, rhc gastconorok mindset of a nation already obsessed with Indian food_ A, body prepared to put sest nal million quid into my idea can buy nor eXpErliSC, My knowledge and my passion but they will also have dinexelustve

right rhic /Larne of this amazing chain demerits and, with due apologies ro Paul Sant, n- will be known as "f he Lut flays of the Floyd', We ground nut of Chennai through the appalling traffic SO the village of Sriperumbad se where, from a distance, you can see water buffaloes barhung and high-rise ancient tern phts which. ifiyou squint, rem ndyntiof(lodsani Cim Wesaw the ancient reservoirs, so-called rank, where the lepers cleanse- themselves and the lueils do their washing, bur it ain't like a visit to Salisbury Cathedral: It was quite funny on the day that we

went there to In what is actually a very

Incaunful and fascinating place. On the my my belosed director. V ick. somehow got it into his head that the I IldISISS grow a lot of rice and we should acluwwiedge that fact incur relvLsion programme. You hare to remember, however, that there is nothing real in television /and. Some 30 or 40 hapless 'Indian WORMS were planting rice in a paddy Eeld but, gmel barren, on the shady side of the field- This is. of course. twally unacceptable, for Television purposes they .131 be in the sunshine to awiEthhadn.. so char rhc colours are Wight and vibrant. To make- maners worse, it wa5 impossible ro

k ger a shot of these people from rho rood bemuse rhr cameo Anglo would nor ha correcr.So, ar rho behest &Nick, our long-suffering rescarrhari Raj. was instructed to tell thc srmaillean - which is French for seed sower, - to move over In roc other side of the field end replant collar they had already planted for the heriefii of oar camera. In the meantime. Sun. my manager. on this day dressed in somber kit, drawing qua cigar and for ail the world /oohing like Stormin' Norman, hijacked and occupied roe adjacent hospital. He stormed rho operating theatre. where bewildered so rgeosi were ball Winn, allowing hint - in mid.opciation - to ?Lace thc camera on she roofso that roe world could sec romething that they have probably never seen before, since the dawn of television, a load of women planting rice. interlude at kenchipuram Some 40 or 50 marmot out or Madras them. 4 splendid Taj hotel called Fisher. man's C.nve at Covelong Beach, near Kanchipmarn in Tamil Nadu-The beaches are u nspoilt. there tae spectacular views, regular rooms in the hotel complex and utterly enchanting guest bungalows on the beach. Here, with Tess, I spent sa magnificent days as the guest of Sambicer Singh. the general manage. Diming that rime !learnt how no make some equisitc ashes. including the subai poriyal (ce knch spicy b,-etnoon with coconut) and kathirikai rcara kulanrou epic:aubergine dish) on pages 153 and 356. from roe hotel's executive chef Fabian. I stem or remember he had a couple of hit, in the charxs in the lace fifties. IjoIce: Rrok-'n-rollers know. what 1- mean.) Kanch [potato is the Golden Tow, of 1,000 Temples, one of india's anon most sacred cities. Nowadays only 126 templossarrsa but Ma of these are considered oil, standing. They are closed between noon and 3 ❑ fspor and are host visited do the atiernoon. On roe same arrerch of roroline ra Covelang Reach is the famous Shore Terripla at Mamaliapuram, probably the beat-known sight in:mid-lens Ind._ Loner 1000 India 31

Bombay (now known as Mumbai) So, on a high from the Fisherman's Cove.enth culinary circus rolled on to Bombay (or Mumbai as it is now known). birthplace of Rudyard Kipling in 1855. and a piry famous for its red double-decker buses. Home or ihr wealthy and glamorous. Mumbai is ihecom roe wiz' hub of India. Here there is a hugc1,0011R0 be,«n the rich and the poor. The pity elm i

indeed ind Inore million:11TE, Than Manhattan, and them two people in the dry do not

2111100 osteriious dip!, wedth, tar have acth.i to a toilet, ssv mill inn go

ro drinking warer and over half the

population of 16 million people live in slums or km the sneer. The huge notes) harbour it the mason who commerce bloxsornad in Mumbai. helped by she npeaingof Indids first railway!' ne which starred in Mumbo. Elaphama I:Land in the middleof the harbour has magnifithni rock-cur cave temples...0e ofthe ciry's main iourisr attractions, and in Fchnury a fesrival of music and dance is held at these cane temples. Mundiai is elm the borne oIBollywoad. rho Indian version of Hollywood. which produces more Sinn than any other ciry in the world-- 120 FrATUrc Sims per year-In

Ate.

nghltwo.a...very

Mumbai you can stal savour the glamour anached io the notion of going to the movies at one of the glorious art deco cinema, The city also has over 501aoghter clubs. Members gather in parks. Jos, the dry each morning and laugh themselves silly, in dte belief that happMesiand health wroth -tamed end drawmg on anuant yogic rears that highlight the beneficial effes-Nof laoght, hlumbai has a unique lunch service. Hot lunches are delivered to workers in their offlocs direct foam their homes by something akin to a postal service. Before noon, dalA, ever-hot lunch boxes, co nraini ng a he me.cooked meal are collected from residdneics by slabbarvelk, They are sent ro the city by main and dropped ar various stations for lunchtime delivery by other reams of dablhaeuelLn. Ownership and location cloth lunch box is identified by markings decipherable by the datedion/lar atone After lunch the whole moons is reversed. Crawford Market and the bazaars of Kalbadevi and Bhuleshwar sell everything from mangoes to tobacco to Alsatian puppies: if you can eat st or stroke it. you can pmbahly fintrd here We stayed at the Tid Mahal Hotel on the waterfront next to the Gmcway of India. a huge tentrimhal arch built in 1924 ta commemorate a visit by George V and Queen Mary. The lass nit!, British troops leaving India by sea passed through this led. Nowadays the massive stone arch 4 used mainly as an embarkation point for ferries taldrig roods, to the Elephants caves oi down the coast to Goa. According to the Lonely Planet Guidem b.did {TH.)(Taos in sta y -Top End_ 'ThcTaj Mahal Hold. nem so the Gateway of India k one nf the heti 1-thwis thiithry Taj is secs and hornet° umbai's Lie and bat ever:Luncei,lble facili,Lincludirigthicc quaky rcaraurame. scverai bars, a coffee shop, swimming pith!, gym nasium and Wilde I am the znawsr fan of the Lonely Planet guides, I can only disagiee with their description of the Tar Mahal Hotel -1 think it is the worst hmel f have eves staved

lever from Ina 'a

15

C)no of the fow &hens oFsra,ing in an Indian hare[ it &tears-gent Laundry serykte. gtease-splateered, turrnefie-gained shiers would coma whizzing back. splendidly clean and immaculately pressed. and vrry quickly and cheaply ton. Bur. they are nor washed in gleam Mg Launders-nes — they arc lire:alb:Bogged clean in Bombay's municipal laundry. locally Isnown as the 1)&01M Ghar me Malulumi. Here, in a labyrinth of open-air atone and concrete buins, thousands of men scrub. wash. rinse and dry [0,19 of di try clothes brought hum over the city all day. Then, after they have been Through hand-operated spin dryers, the eforhos are apirad out on some rusty old roof to dry. alter which they arc immaculately pleased. with charcoal-Fired smoothing lions. You get a great view of this phenomenal place from the railway bridge near Mahalaruni Station which is five stops up from Churohgate Station-

36 seeet gom incha

Rajasthan...of polo, midnight feasts and other stories The whnIn ernw -Mikn thn ,winnramati, Martin the sound wontdin, Nick th, &wet, Wendy the produciion manager. Rai the researcher. Stan the pialueer, .1.51211L. nurse and wanspon manager. Murry, my Indian chef. my wife Tess and myself had found u may hard going in Mumbai but everyone was in immensely high spirice.as we hoarded the plane ro Jaipur in Rajasthan. despiw the fan that it was Indian Airlines. By the wy, iFyon arc travelling internally in India, whenever possible taw }ct Ainvays -a surth privaick owned airline and one thasscrmscwellan food fin Club class anywaiti. Rajasthan in northwest India may he a deem sum. but it is bursting with colour and enubcnnec. Jaisalnur is by far the oldest Raiput city. In imposing fon. built in lb. is like achy in itself, with houses. shops, hotel, and the towering maharaja's palace. The fon resembies a giant goidensandcintle rising oui of rho dawn, Like some. thing out of the Ten/ oftlIn roan Nigh. The [may or the Jain [envies here also leaves visitors breathless- (Jneofthe largest FC5S1•11 , in Jai-clime , 15 the desert festival in Jainiary and February ,henvillasersandinwnipcopledno rradiiional gob, thecamcb ar, ,Lbnratnly decomted and there is traditional dancing and inusi..and carrel poloThi, Mt Dn,n competition morns a swag of mustachioed hopnful, Ir is an ideal iimn toit tin local sand dun... Bdri in a. popoiar Rajasthan bread. traditionally buried in the sand and lei to bake in the scorching desen sun, Jaipur. the capiral of Rajasthan. is called the Pink City, ahhough in in it is terra. ones-oaloured. Ir was palmed in the tradisional Indian colour of welcome in honour

-a Len,' irora rn na

of the adsit of Prince Albert in 11383 and has remained that colour ever since. Founded by Makamja Sawa' Jai Singh 11 in she 1729, is is a. toga[ city with bustling bauars. beautiFil amhite,-um and colourful cideensand, despite neglect, overpopulation and chaotic wile—

41C..1 rickshaws. trucks, moron-yin. bicycles, cars. Ionics.

elephants, hu1Faloes, camels, ton, dogs, moles, goats and, of course. thousands upon thousands of pcdestnans — it it a delight to shit_ Talks the Hansa Mahal or Palace or Visinds. for example. This is a Folly in the grind moaner_ It is not a palace at all, bur a Ilve.srorey wall of windows that nods built ,.uutuuncl for privileged Ladies to obeuve the srreed le and protessi.nm helm,. while the west wind blew gendy through its 953 glassless windows ro keep them cool. Today it is a museum. Throughour hisrory, feuding Maharajas, Arabs, PerWand and Turks all tried and Failed ro conquer Jaipur. This is heedsar the dry is surrounded by strategically placed For linked by a wall S6 kilomerres in circumferance. Even the British did nut CP11quer the placer they just came to a cosy financial deal with the ruling Maharaja, The pi 3Ce is littered with spectacular palaces and oven F. as a confirmed non. tourrw, thewoughly enjoyed visiting them. Parr of the tin. Palace is trill the raidence of the former ruling family It is also great Fun ro hire on elephant and plod up ro she Amber Fors Another bonus in Jaipur was diseowering — rather coo late on our journey

the

hotels operated by the Oberol and Trident group. rho Oheroi hotels are dead posh and the Trident hood are dead good, and 11:recline firm friends rents both rho manager of the Tridenc. Tufa:. Ghotht. and the head chef, Sandhu. Ir war Sandhu who taught me how to make rho perfect bilyani I see page 70), along with many other d'ohn. One of she highlights of our stay there was meeting anorher rwo remarkable coccurrics in their late 60s. Ken and Ed. who stay at the Trident For sir,mourhs of every year. Every evening rhey dressed For dinner in a different, sumptuous k char [P.Me. How their wrists had the strength to suppun their outrageously jewelled

rings.lredliycarit imagine. To occupy themselves in the daytime — that u to say when

Leger ham innia

39

theywerent shopping Jr, eNor.T.. ewel pieces fare of their many csoJic

sib s objen d'art, dorbus and bits arid 1round

wodd- Keawntked, without

pay. In the hotel laundry 'Aar IT dressed in immacourtly taiiorni chefs whites, wish his elegant Salvador DJ] i aso mtaEhu, wafted mound the kitchen and dining nonto for all the world as if he was Eseoffier hirnseif. For his own amusement, much to

the delight of the chef, the manager and the test of the staff. he. in his unpaid capacity as a visiting revl gastronome, made muffins and exquisite cakes. Tsp... divesting earning playinge1.9.hane polo. which is apparcndy unique to JaJp1m. barns. you see. when the Maharajas of Jaipur weren't shooting tigers, playing widens and badmaremon or unteeraining the Prince of Wahl or 3ukir Kennedy. they had the odd chukka on elephants. This dynamic and fast-moving game (sit) has horn played. I am told. in Jaipur for 300 years. Nehilew to say. tress wagers were p6C,I. hot it was only after the Maharaja ofJaipur kJ, a. lo a d ■ P the XbharajaaEjudhpur char he add edthj, eery pertinent rule to the gurnEt No elephant may Ledo.w buna.mo the goal posts: The hut bit ofoor lokal rn was when Tess and 1. Sandhu, Tufir, Ken. Ed and a few nth, friends broke into the Tiger Fort 'm the dead of night. It was a surd jngly clear. wan, day and From high on the hal the nrainkling lights of the whole city of Jaipur were spread beneath saga Ed brought the cakes. 5andhu brought the tandoori kebabs and sun bread. Tufan brought the beer and I brought the whisky. Four hours later we woke up the drjvcr of our limousine. who was asleep on the roof, and made it back to the hold for a substantial breakfast of samba:. a delicious spicy. hot, lentil-based curry, washed down with foaming glasses of iced. salted lassi. We wne very sad toleaveJaipur, but they telephoned ahead to our cot Tthienr hotel in thelake-city of Udaipur.There. thetTradscp and allthesmif 'nada os inuedildywekome. and the mums of roan, of the dishy I Lowe the ...things of dui tbada.up. We had a fine time. The state of Raiasthan gets my-ante. the ha. IV. of India both For the hospitality ofthe Ample. the n‘cenent food and the mag,11 setae of hisrolyand Indianness.

40

hoar from irdm

Crfr Fame

[...Ere.

.

Travelling south from Rajnallan you mar the scam of Gujarat, India's mon wenerly region, In maid kaadon on the edge ofrhrgrabian SGA and the Gujarat's" flair for mar. Write and nicrcan tile pursuits has meant that theme has always eajoycd good trading, enabling dia wealstiv rulers TO build fabulous palaces and templet with their trading profits. Water has always been precious in the desert uld =minivans. arcs Guljarar. In medieval time, when the kings of rhe raglan dig-overed undeignumd spring shay protected it by housing n in an nlabnracely camel unicitim known as a step well Instead of rising upward, a step well -a kind of mini paLaee - spirals down. burrowing into the ash to the sou sae of the precious liquid. One the fincsr otamplos is Adalai tray, a 15th. emir my nee 20 kilarnatesnoni ofAhmadabad. the oneuirnn capital of' the stain. In din far suarh the state about 40 kilometres north of Sornnath. is the Sussn National Park, a Lou sanctuary that is one or the lass places in the world where Atiatie bong can be seen'n dank uatmal habira,

In Gularar die main crops are grains and pulse, Instead of rice. you find breads and pastas and noodles made from en istkpna flour_

Irom Inch 41

tom Shemlbar Rat Jetr,

42 Letter from

maw

Leifer korn Alla 43

Calcutta and West Bengal la rhc 18th and 1.1sth centuries CaJeurca was known 19 the dry of palaces. People still care in the crumbling skeletons of these palaces which nn be over the city. Cahuxxa is a living museum of MN years of amhintcru re. It is also the inael I [MIA Mark Twain described Calcutta's weather If being hoe and numidenough m maize a dual- knob musky_ In Nut, the air in West Bengal is so humid these every form of greenery, bananas, aubergine, marrows. Nat beans and rice (which .16 the ample hem) grow in abundance. Wes, Bengal sirs last above the Bayer Bengal and Remain Over, the mighry Ganges. breaks into dozens of rivers and cinders before it Nova into dm sn ]use to the east of Caleurta.Theseriverspravidetheaden with ksosherstaplc—freshwa.fish.Theddanik Tall fish market is situated in the nosh of Calcuna, the oldest part of town. and by 6.ddarn ia is already in full swingg. Many oldie fish ere sold a1ive, making thorn hard to weigh as they leap around the scale. bur the Bengali:will nor buy them any other way. Calcut.a was the forma] spiral of the British Empire of India until 1911 when the capital was moved co DAIL The Bririah brought with them many new foods. including potatoes, for which the Bengalis haven red hundred, of new recipes. The main cuisines here are Bengali and Anglo-;radian. There are two sods of fboda in Calcutta — Golhi and Bengali. Golhi food is non chiefly in the 1113171-1 of the ei Goad, do not eat chillies and lovesween. Bengal food is eaten by Bengalis originating from east Bengal, the dishes are the same as Gadd foal bur with added &Niles and with hardly any sugar in the desserts. Bengali feud is based on fish and a variety of sweettneacsi sariet vegetarian asboos ate not generally followed.

Calcutta is also famous for iu hawker food. Hawke., who are known as pkttebko trailers, are found all over the city and particularly near commercial cent= to tied the lunchtime trade. The waterfront of the Holy Gang., is rhe centre of the city's religious life. Every day. early in the morning and 4, arder. people gather for ritual ablutions. at the templet on the rivers shores_ In the south of the city is the Kali Temple At Kalighat. dedicated to the elty's patron goddess. where goats are sae ri• Sced on a dady hats. One of the City. s moo- original monn• mem, is the Memorial to the Dead Telephone. built in 1984 by the Tele. phone Consumer Guidance Society of India- Esery year a mourning ceremony is organised here to mark the collapse of the city's telephone network.

The sport of polo in its international f.rm.riginard in CA I Cc M. The Cal-

cnna Polo Club, formed in 1863 is now the oldest in existence and its red and white collars are used co deco.c the goal poir, of polo grounds all over the %mid. The season lasts from November so early March. New :Harker, just north of Sudder Street. has the hest for and cake shops. and for caged birds and d tropical fish go to Hari Hagen. further north, on 3 Sunday. Ar So na pan t. goldsmiths sit

cross-legged on the floor before huge iron chests. Here gold ornaments are bought and sold. exchanged and me/ red down. and precious gems and pearls arc ,old by weight.

Despite its elegant ctty centre. and although she Tai Bengal Hotel has splendid roormand its lunchtime buffet

Leternm it c 45

is pram: good. thc thing I Found most fantastic in Calcutta was rhr book market. lira arc in Calcutta, take a trip to Chuckervertty. Chancricc and Co. Ltd. at ! 5 Col Inge Square. where you can buy carry& ing from HG Wells' 1Vererl, Ind& to Malcolm Cowry's Dark as rbe Grare ONTein While in Calcutta, 1 had a spccracular clay with a charetable organisation called Future Hope, who ntscue aboscdsurer children From the gutters and from abuse, and help them T. been., en. Went, aencuLun and positive young people. Thcv.Invitod end at a Rugby ma Ich where- they played their former enemies. r hc Calcutta and presented me with one ofth.r. original 19.th-cenntry siker rupees from which the ,famous Ra6lay Calcutta Cup VMS made.

Aduran

-

ere tens

Grres.

- : _-,-.-----0 - -. 311-7_mi... __,._....._._....._____... -_,..■,.....--0! •

.

- __ -

From Calcutta we Hew to the Punjab, dm rich, fertile plain in rh.: north of India. The Punjab produces wheat for breads (bread rather than rice is rho staple food). sugar Band milk for dairyprodum Fat land I may say inoreclibLy ugly) mater bulTalo arc milked by hand and give a cir h milk that is used ro make tea. yoghurt. butter. cheese and ghee. About 85 on-rent of the ,egion u under cul.ricotion and 70 pc r cent of the population ∎crock in cprie.locc, The Punjab ptobahly bc.oknovnt in Engiand, and i Et India, for its mndonri dishes (see page 1001_ The food is cooked in a tandeo∎ , an oven shaped like a coniml tube made of sun-baked clay. heated with woad or charcoal to produce a fierce heat that cooks food very prickly without drying our. The origins of the condom remain uncle, but they have becn around in du Punjab for many cen mrios'random- mcns art mad, in Arnrimar (just behind the has station, an eoenrial piece of information) Noma snl,:rom of clay and hay (and they cost very If you don't want to cook your own food, the (supposedly hest) randoorL chicken in the Punjab

can be found ar Surja's Chicken home. in A ro Can't dress up for the occasion. in reality it is Mal a tiny mall. Although Chandigarh is the state cap i tal, Arur,r,.rc i, its largo and most famous city — home ro the famous Gulden Tempk, the hioHest of Sikh shrines. It is conarmored en rack}, of marble and gold and sirs in the middle of a Lai...The Puniabsearu to be the larder of the continent. ff noth se. these is always from food in the Sikh emples. Ar the Golden Temple the mass feedings seem almost rturacuboux the many doors to the feeding hall open in unit. until 3,000 people are seated around t he tables lin ma.Liry rho floor!) leaving the rest to wait unti/ the next seating. They only

have to wail half an hour. in that time the current seating a fed. the floor swept and the whole process starts all °act again. Thar's India for youl I hope my brief tour of India has helped to give you a glimpse of the sights and scents of this fascinating country and that your mouth is warning in anticipation of

tasting the true liassouts of Indian food. Now it is your trim to got waking, using the authentic and traditional nerves! hose collected from all comers of India.

Leiter from Enda 49

The Recipes the soaring 1-hrealyas m Thc plaIns, from rropical foresca ro deserts, with a long coastline of Omit., besehre.. The climate, sap- frthri the Lou! north and the tempera-Le southern foothill, of the Himalaya. on the onpical cJi of the westectN1d southern regions. India is home ro about a billion people of various Tau. and religions — Hindus. Muslin.. Christians. Sikhs. lains. Buddhists, Parsis and other minor seers—and the counn -is col-sinks AT ar d ivcrse =s In racial structure and varied geographical condirions. The Hindus do nor ear beef—since-cows are sacred ro them —.and nun,. do nor rat Inc-m.o. all, while The Muslins exhow pork. A fair amoum of Iamb and gm is eaten. The cooler areas of the float, are suitable for rearing sheep, and here lamb dishes 11.111 a higani and rogan josh (set pages 79 and 145) area spe,iai in, In pans dike won many ethnic communities are mt.tiet vertariem and di'is has renal red in wonderfully diver. vngeTarian crsincs. (Jim wgetable, me conked with crscom in dLshe, such as okra sant.E.1 with corona, (vendakat poriyab and spicy vogembEectzry

Scanned&Conver t edt oPDFbyFFCcot t age

Madame Masala her mysteries and magic There err probably as many versions of roasala in Indian cooking as there arc sexual positions in the Khama Sutra. if not more.., and, like lovemaking, real delight cannot be achieved Without tender and exotic foreplay, so it is imporranr to understand the sobriety required to prepare a tm.ala betbre gorging on she delights of the tangy, spicy, pungent or creamy, fragrant or soft gastronomic sex that is Indian food. And, the base of it all is the masala.

54

Masada is e mixture of herbs and spices, whole or ground, that give Indian dishes their distinctive flavours when mixod and puréed with water, oil or vinegar, lime or lemon juice. The main spices and herbs in masalas include fresh green chillies, fresh ginger . garlic, red onions or — better still — small red shallots. fresh coriander leaves, fresh mint leaves, curry P.M. bay leaves, salt, hot dried Bird's Eye chillies. dried black mustard seeds, coriander sends, black peppercorns, cardamon] pods. cloves. cinnamon sticks. cumin seeds, fenugreek, fennel seeds. star anise. tamarind and turmeric. Of course. you can buy all or most of rho flavourings al ground to a powder, but. for the hest results and for greater satislitction, it is bettor to grind your men. A small coffee gel for the dried spices and a small Food processor for the fresh is all you need. You will per oven more flavour from the spt you lint lightly roast the seeds in a dry Irving parr until they crackle, rhen grind there to a powder.

Some recipes in this book use dried powdered masalas. In general. thew should he gently stir-fried in nil for a few moments m climinarc the preediery taste before adding she recommended cooking liquid. Both wer and pureed neat-tin usually Imeelit hole being stir-fried in a link oil first. Vegetable oil. coconut oil, mustard seed oil and ghee (clarified butter) are all used for frying. If you use mustard seed oil. de on sparingly as it has a strong. pungent flavour and a slightly acrid aroma. Chillies were introduced ro India by the Porruguese. The hottest ones are the small red Bird's Eve varier, and. as with green chillies, the more seeds you lease in. the hotter die flavour. Dried chillies too, like other spices, are more flavoursome iF lightly roamed belbre using Midair chopped. whole or ground). Onions, ginger and garlic can either he chopped e.r pureed to it paste in s feud processor. "fn make a ginger and garlic purr, combine. in most cases. equal quantities of peeled ginger and garlic and puree. To make a brown onion paste. finely slice or

dice

50111C

red onions, and satire- Them in butter,

or oil until

they are golden brown, then puree rhern in a Food processor. A puree of ramarin d is often used for sour turriu. This IS VC, .nple w prepa.. Pop some tamarind pulp inn, a pan,

Cl■Ver

with

waxer and bring to the boil. loon off the how and leave ro tool, then winners.' the Rosh away from the seeds. Chuck the

GCMG

away

and process the liquid and flesh until smooth. Alan, mauls, and indeed many dishes. use coconut flesh, eirher finely gratcd or rhinly slivered. Dried coconut is generally a pour

substitute for Fresh. In the south of India. in particular, milk is used extensively m make she curry gravy she

coconut

turn, ' sauce '

is nor normally used) and is often made with freshly graved coconut

flesh purled wish soarer and the iiquid from rhezoconku. However. it is more practical to buy canned, unsweetened coconut milk from

an Asian specialisr. If the recipe calls for

56

moor or chicken ao he

marinated or simmered in coconut- milk, dilute the coronae milk wirh soarer and cook gently until she liquor 1535 all but evaporated and then add she rhicker milk ro finish off site dish. If You start with the Mick version, is will probably separce and curdle_ IF you are able ro obrain fresh curry leaves. you will find Cary add an exquisite 0455C to your dish.. Some recipes earl for curry leaves so be vr.k.led at the first stage of preparation. To use sheer ro garnish dishes, quickly stir-fry the [cares in a little oil,

50

they

are a dark, glisrening, green colour and very slighrly crispy. Small pieces of kaffir lime leaves arc a. reasonable suhsrirure. If only dried curry Icarus are available, use them in the gravy, bur nor as a garnish. Chopped fresh coriander leaves can be used as a good general garnish. Some curries in this book are we, and some are dry. Quite simply. a dry curry is cooked wirh very little liquid, resulting in the morsels of mess, fish or whatever bring coated with the rnasala prosy rather rhan swimming in ir. Itrims Indians cat with their lingers and mop gravies up arida breads er balls of rice.) Where incalas are used in the recipes. I hove listed the ingredients and method as required For each individual dish. However, here are four all-purpose masa!as for the cunning curry cook who is pressed for time. They are useful bc.vmr they can be prepared in advance and scored in the Fridge or in the freever and, as long as you have some coconut 1501k and chutney in che cupboard, all you have redo on your way home is pop into your favourite store and buy ynghnrr, fresh coriander and

50111, 15505C 0C

fish and you can areaze and impress your friends ',rid, a dish that raster convincingly authentic. Thus, I offer you:

Floyd's green masala I tablespoon coriander seeds

1 On road all Inc dried spIces In a frying pan oar a low

I tablespoon gmand turmeric

heat. time.", until May crackle.

{oz tablespoon mom seeds

2 Put all Me !Tigre.. Into a food processor mtn e 111.1,s

t2 lablesppon cloves

vinegar or wale, and grind to a smooth paste. Pop Me

1 onnerpon stick

maw-a into en a ■ arght tatge or pia. food Doe and

a handful of trash green chillies, coarsoh , CeOrMetl

store in either the Mdge or Pleat,

a tea nxrces II pre, Feem

316 ink me masa*, neat soma ow, a kind, ilr■Oar■ la

a finger-saes mace of mat ginger, peeled 1 cup of chopped red shall..

wok, ca any ...tie pan, stir In the masam ana cook for

1 small song of teen mini

coconut milk •Idllute Ole coconut milk to start mt. one

a few minutes lo make a gravy, add either water or

1 bunch ol fresh cornandel leaves

part coconut to Mn parts eat, to prevent It cumlIng

a little sugar

when brought lo the ball. Add meat, fish or vegetables of

salt

your drone and simmer gently until cooked. For the best

white mne vinegar. nce vinegat cn water

resuIN, use meat. chicken on the bona chopped into bge.sged pieces. The meat s put !WI -lower, lee. not sealed. al as rs normal In French ceding.

60 Malan, Mamie

Floyd's red masala a handful of dred

cr, ,, ras

1 tablespoon came, Seeds 1 tableSpo, black peppercorns 1 tablespoon round tb ■ rneric

Chaat masala This is a Salty and SOuf Spice and is sprinkled over cooked or raw dishes to add flavour. Use It like salt and pepper.

1 tablespoon domes sect,

ion

1 targe Piece of root ging., paled and ahopucd

I Labaespoae cumn seeds 1 tablespoon deck cePPerCems 5 cioves

10-15 Owes al garlic. peeled a pale %Mar

n. rataes000n dried rant lea,s teaspoon assloe.a pawner

sah

2k, tablespoons fined mango powder

red *ale ionegaror water

1 teaspoon ...erect ginger I teaspoon 00,111 ponder

Make, store and use In exactly the same any as Flow's green masala (see opposae/

Ve teaspoon Wane acid tablespoon reek salt 2 teaseoons sea sal tightly toast all Me ■ ngredents except the salts a, a dry pan. Ada the sells and grind an the spices whale they are still warm in a coffee Winder or food processor. Stag In an a,r,ght coot:twee

Garam masala 3

asomns :omen seeds

2 raPespoons ccalander seeds lour 5 or

inch cinnamon socks

10 green carnamcm pods. sirghtty crushed 10 cloves

1 Dry roast the spiel and bay leaves in a frpog pan over a mow real singe until, can smell the spew . Remote from be can and anon to cool sIshily.

2 Transfer the mixture 10a dartlee Benda. or 'Pod G..C550( and grind to very Imo Pared.

Ss a nutmeg. grated

3 The masaia can be kepi in an artight contaner or it

3 bedded mace

can be frozen In a bag

I bates000n black peppercorns 3 star anise a Ow 5 Day laves

seadaff. Malaita

61

Sit

kr I

NI'

.e

001

It!

-,01-t11iig = u8 II' •

- • • ark I I' r•111.1 *eV we,.

11

The Vexed Subject of Rice Any kid from Bangkok to Cakurra. from Saigon to Bombay can cook rice Bus. we Brits have trouble even cooking the boilin-thc—bag varier:, Indeed, I know talented chefs who sr. -dale as rite thnughi of having ro cook perfect rice and, when it comes ro cooking dishes such as paella and biryani s I have seen pompous bodies cringe and rremble as she rack. In the following dishes. she rice is thoroughly washed strider running water until all the starch has gone before it is cooked.

Fragrant lemon rice It is worth going to a specialist grain rice eta can

find

wee 4

le:

fAsi ant

store

and

buying the marl experIS We king

for this CM. 1 2.1tnelICIlin plenty of salted sinter, giving one

coos lung gram nee washed under

stock eV once d ewe come to Ilae boa. Continue cooking

%une% weldor al least 15 reiuules

unN the grains are awl tender. VriT, thorough!, tsansfer

and strained

led hood

salt

ono SW in 0 neiVed tataeentiOn Or ghee

*Caged*.

gape vegetable pi teaspeon aaOk mustard aft% email hanogai 0l }resit wiry loses V, teaspoon finely ohoppecif. ginger

(green chill , finely mopped 3 or pima red chillies. coarsely chopped I heaped tablespoon unwired cashew Ours k. 12 spoon ground torrneno

pee 012 lenIons &looped Irwse conenclea leaves, to porno.,

441 r,+emi*0.mm moo

66 The Vexact Subject nI Rine

21n a large sea.. Intel non Ot wok. rout rpm, 44 App gte mesa:0 Peed, ane ewe. until IPey Gnat. App the cow leases, vgn, minim ono Ewan. nuts ano euekly statrySonnide in tne turmeric Sur in the lemon Nice, a pinch Msea and abaci 4gun of water . simmer the MIX11.131 for 7 or 3 minvies odd you have a turmericC0651.11Ed VOW. 3 Stir in One gye and continue cooky' unlit The baud

has been abr.t 00 and the rice is completely tender. Gai•is.h

ehpcpcp ee., pp. , C@VLS

-d serve.

Coconut rice With brilliant rice dishes like this one who needs meat or fish? A plate or a tqw1501

some fresh Indian bread, score pickles or Chutneys and (see page 1761 makes a delightful lunch or supper.

of this eaten with Kachumber area

1 Put thence ■ ntn plenty dewed watt, trove the Soii

250 09 so nasmes nee, armleecl uncle,

ano cook for rust 5 minutes, dram and then speed out

■ ng water fort leas! 15 minutesruno

and of ained salt ISO 55 so Irea.11y grated coconut vegetable ail I teaspoon black mustard seeds 4 or 5 dned red chill. coarsely chopped 2 0.3 ween chi., coarsely chapped 2 cksios oi garret. peelers and finely Mopped 2.5 [eel inch mile of flax grge, reelect and scaly cropped

on a 5112110Ve lukilg flay so that a can coal quickly

2 -rang the Fated coconut in a ary pan
♦ And the cutt, !elves are lunneac and 54.10 fora raw seconds Sur in the occonut and me and rns thoroughly. Season rousts vat sat Coes ler 2 er 3 m nylos 5 Rem. The pan Item Ira pose. tow are lee,

4 or 5 cardamom pods, crushed

Far 1 hour. then stir m the ghee Rehear the Free either in

a email handful al (rest curry leo.

arorcrdrave or se. gently on the stove. Serve

I teasocao grocer tune.,

garnished oral chopped canard. leaves and a few

salt

slovens ol fresh coconut it wahed_

I heaped leblespoon ghee

her the gaming a handful al chopped fresh sorar , I. leaves slivers ec hest meaner Loptionel)

eve eraatradareere..4

Jodhpuri pulau This rice dish is traditionally part of a theli selection (see page 76). Jodhpur, by the way, is the name of an Indian city not polo-playing trousers! serves 6-8

1 Soak the washao entils in ire. water IS. 3 hours and

502;2 sohlye, low 7 red ,entils washed

the hashed rice for 1 your

603 WI 10 6 oz basrnak noe. washed under fonn.mg.tel Iv at lean 15niatoles and shamed 1 omen

weeteisie of 100 gqIce aces 1 teeseeen cumin seeds 3 Cloves 2 pieces of c.rnamon stick a or 5 green ,ardamorn pods

2 ewes cardamom pods

2 Cut the orpon in had and srtoe n very rmely into had mac., shapes. Heat a kite oil and fry the slices anal they are very crew. then Only and put In one net

3 Strain the soaked lentils and Inn rice Heat a ettle On dlt1 IN ghee in a oar of far, add all the whole apses

and Me boo leaves and stir while they cracks. 4 5th in the lentAsAhen add t h e rice and stir sway to that all the grains are coated won the oil Add Just anciAah to cover Ire rice and season wet sail. Bong to the top then...Ow heat and took gently,

2 bey .0.

sdrang from tow to Line cane Ye lout .s absorbed and

.11

the rice is cooked Q.t. mme.vmrw.

5 Sane garnished wilt, the crispy tried onions .

Cumin-flavoured rice

Jeera pulau

Cumin is an indispensable spice in Indian cooking and it gives an exquisite perfume to rice_ Cyril hoard spices — they do be stale: buy them in small quantities to Suit your needs. serves 6

1Soah lie easned nce in fres, v,,ger to, 30 minaleS.

500 ../ 1 Ib 2 oz basmaii rice. washed

Men drain thoroulriV.

under Riming meter for et least 15 minutes and grained 50 rilf 2doz vegetable nl 20p' b.oi cum, seeds

1 teaspoon each pepoweems 1 hay sal

2 Meat the .1 In a gleam trying pan co, .ok, add the cumin seeds. peppercorns and toy leal and cook unld Mee erack.e. 3 rip m ine.nna, cinnamon and cardamom and sta-fry In the el for 10 minutes. Mining continuously, Add 1 kV.

5 broken pieces di cinnamon sink

1 ha pints bolting wales season with Sae, owe , and cook

9 groan [MUM,. prude

for 8 minutes. Stir the rice once and add , M1e kI., C¢ Of

I heaped lanlespoon or gnee P butler

bunt,ReplaCe the i ■ d arid cook for a Maser 7 minutes

salt

or until The water has !venerated and Ole mire intenSer-

ch

coriander leaves. to garnish

4 Serve sonntled wan chapped dosencer

The v..2 Suoiect et lice 69

Floyd's imperial biryani This is a sumptuous dish of tender, spicy mutton cooked gently in fragrant rice. A celebration dish. it should be served for a very special occasion. It is best to have small pieces of good quality mutton and, if possible, on the bone. Lamb or goat can be used instead of mutton. if preferred. serves 10

1 Soak the washed Poe in heat V13. for I tout.

1 ag,21/4 lb teemed nee, hashed under

Meozaasio. on, roast aflthe emcee lop the maaala on a frying pan Ov5r a 1554 teat then Oral Men, to a Mader in afecal proCe.s or denier. Mu together dl one

funreng water for at least 15 minutes and seamed 35002 oz ghee

orignedoents lot the puma.

salt 153 v5 oz coarsely Opp.ped tad onions 100

oz flaked almonds

2 xgOh, ID moron morsels for fame or goal/ 250 g/9 oz nature! yogn, 100 goo az cream 100 gra au cashew flues 100 g14 az reams 6 tablespoons chopped fresh mall leaves tablespoons thoPPed fresh almandm leaves 21ableso0oms lemon ,use a pnch of saffron threads soaked r 2 tablespoons water a low MOPS Col msemrter plan llour vegeratila ci 150 0/5 oz finely seced re, Gnome sate, packet of soher le& to garnish

2 Dram The soaked nee thoroughly. Heat some of The large oli ve w snalbwthane pan and aeule the ghae on a nrte for 2 or 3 minutes until each gran is coated yath ghee. add enougn velar le a... cover the rove emphasise Yount., only Mat ewe, 015 ice teeth the rata). Season to bate wen a Iltle sat 000 then coo, The oce gently 551155 water 1155 5550.5150. Al ems porn the tee mil sal be veiny uneerCeekoe. This os correct Remove loon, the feet and weep to One side while you prepare Ma remora 3 In a large heavy.besed Ammar., casseree oath a lot heat some ghee and fry the cropped onions. Ste on the macahta evader and cook lor 2 or 3 minutes, reams wet. Stra, the per( and cook for 2 or 3 ranufes 4 Stir m hall the almonds, Then add the mortar , and season wan sell gar in the yoghurt and a lark water if maium ...re, dry. Cook gently waif The rnotal tend. one altghtlY Ora 5trr m the cream and COM nie c.c.ang 8.rq,

to the swab 10 cardamom poet 10 clovez 4 00100 01 mace 10 g993 or amend cinnamon

5 Sprinkle oarl the cashew nios, hair the miens and raft The mint and coriander leaves over the mutton. Tip the ace On tap. add Me remaining raisin, malt and coriander leaves and me them chip Ole lice. and then level the top of the rice

ter the puree 40 bill, az rob ginger. pm. 90 al', ez cloves of gem_, peered 2 team...chili plawaer

6 Siseeile the Iwo, ie., seinen wave and re:ea/bar over Me nce. then derma one 5.1151 055 0050 055 lap. .555,5 55 Dap

70 rne Vend Subject Of Dice

7 Make a stff paste valt, plan flour. a hale pa and water ex! knead rt until R Is like ratty. pat a erq of geete around the edge al Inc casserole ato, making tyre the, there are ne gap,. TIII,M115¢DI the GDP,* ,0 that yet... Steam Or. more importantly, wene¢r1.1 aromas can escape_ Place tne Ei4 e•tri seal en tne eassenne

and co, gently ler 15-20 nneres Meanwhile, I rylne VICK tea onons an a little.' unfit ney are crisp mid golden Put coon sKle. Fry the remaining cashew nuts and amends In a Idle ghee ant.11 they are lightly loastea.

9 Ant Wore sereri the hlryani, lay soles penes of elver leal over the lap and ser.nkoe doles toasted ruts and lie eruoy onions.

reeaweereemereeme re pt rfie eareemr, ,aoomreend 1.4w , eve peri tome bawee, J. 6. Mars red.. m Right Some, Me Ilowursome owe.. Vo go Rat 'w elyrAcell Doyenr.

.s■ reste J.eetaneo,

72

Trie Visaed Subject 61 Rice

The Von. Sulopol or Oct 73

A shall is a tray, which can he pressed stainless steel or elaborately decorated gold or silver, upon which are placed a number of small metal dishes about 6-7 cm/142-3 inches in diameter, again made of either stainless steel, gold or silver. The idea of shall is that the individual can sample several different dishes all at the same time. It is what the French would call a

171(11” de dep,uirattan

and the Spanish call

where the chef offers you small portions of all his favourite dishes. It enables you, should you wish and depending on

re

what you put into your shahs, to have a multi-course meal, perhaps including a little soup to start, then going through a variety of vegetable or meat dishes and finishing with something like a mango kulfi (Indian ice cream). This is a fun way to experience Indian food and the first person who opens a stylish thali restaurant in London will make an absolure killing. As I recall my journey around India. I Mink that the only redeeming feature of Madras (or Chennai as it now is) was the fantastic shah fast food restaurant called Hotel Saravana Bhavan in a street called Dr itadha Krishnan Salai. Any of the dishes in this book, wish the exception of roasts, grills or randooris. can he prepared and served as a Mali. The following vegetable recipes I cooked for the manager of the Trident Hotel in Jaipur, my friend Tufan Goshr. Serve them with Jodhpuri pulau (see page 69). and Indian spinach bread (palak rod) (see page 83). Assemble your shah dishes so that each person will have on the thali tray four different vegetable dishes. one rice dish, one dish of raita (see page 173), and one dish of a pickle of your choice (see pages 172-179). If you wish ro eat in the Indian manlier, you can use the roti to scoop up the contents of your little Mali dishes.

77

Simmered lentils

Chana dal

You can use black. yellow, green, whatever lentils you like. but the Important three is you must first wash them well and leave them to soak in fresh water for an hour. 1 CO. the entes wen the torment and some salt in lust evugh wake Weever wed Ines are lender but not eothPletety ceased and the wale has annotated.

sores 4 200 gO 000r, enths I leatathan grdam torthenc mil vegetable no I heaped leaspcon cumin seeds 2 ted orlon, finely chapped 1 lablaseuen mued gthath and 8a , 561 1 la ..spoon fed chth powder 3 tarnalces. finery chopped

for the garnish chopped heSh co erne. leaves hush green cnthes

78 Thab

2 Heal the 01 in a earth or a saucer... add the came, seeds and by until they crackle. PM the arsons and soue unto golden brown

3 Str in the ginger and garlic puree and 1Ire c, ■■■■ Owe., Shuyft20r3mines.adthlo

purgeIs.Page cod, tar 15-20 mints= or unel eon have a

co.use pule

hello and simmer gene, unto trey the really lender. Serve garnished weth chapped couander leaves and a fresh green chilli peer person

4 kid the pathooked

Cottage cheese in spinach puree sag ganeer Indian cottage cheese (paneer) Is quite firm and can easily be cut into Cubes. It is quite simple to make your own pence r. See page 1133. selves 4 400

ty the ..oes el cheese al a 14de al untl They are ex caner. Cut into small cu.,

vegetate oil

KO 2/11/4 lb seine.. Cecil washed ana pomp knot of tole. or O. HMVOighne I 'teaspoon corn'n seeds 2 or 3 olcvcs et garlic. peeled and finery crop!. 2 least een, 13.nd conande. I teaspoon ree chic! oorede ■ 100 rn nexneam

golden en mg set, Men pt.d le one side. Ser.tryine

se...achy/de a knot of Wier cr ghee no Rater is eauoral. ikon puree a a Wed, 2 /Icel./19e, add the cumin seeds and as they crackle Or In the &Opped gams and terra 01111 d Is golden brown,

3

Add the ,Fonander. cwe penclei and spinach wee.

Season le taste eat salt ane cook for 3 or 4 minutes. SIL•nng all

4

the eme.

add the cubes of paneef and .11+Ter gentry to heal

threk0, Sit in

Ike cream and sewn Pipes( hot

ee 79

Baby onions stewed in yoghurt masala Kande ki sabzi Yet another dish that my culinary guru Sandhu showed me how to make while I was staying in Jaipur. serves 4

1 Ilia logethe, all lee masala Ingred.nls min 4. cup

I0Only.1 tog.,

wafer

1 IMP., cumin ands

1 hear., lataeSPmr, mlead ginger and gadc Puree Ism page 561 500 p.11.L. 2 al bat,/ allOns of a unevrn site. or macIlurn red omens cul Min quarters

co00 to a moment Or ten

3 Sla al he masaPa and then the avOns. Om% thoroughly lo ensure fin am well ,Oate.1 wolf manta heal until the p.ons are tender bill .71 Ionr,g tor sham

I leaSpDon red 1011p:oder 2 Ite.ors ground colander 2 le asp., pet turner;[ aboul Susi 2 ea natural yegnial ,§11 to taste

Oa... Mao bey- frwr, rcp naiads Lamp zwese m spnrn amr mop 79,..ow, apnea two !page 631..

80 DIA

until they cracide Stir in the ginger arld earl, puree and

Add atom I+, cups al wane, and nominee aently veer a Inr

far the maul.

010 i‘nge /731. .try Swnmead 7192, air,. [a ltklanvr■ pal, .6.691.

2 Ileal the en in a .1, acid Ina cumin seeds and try

stnted OW pa.

Potatoes with cumin seeds

Jeera aloo

Indian cooks do not season their food or flavour thee food, they temper their food — so this dish Is really potatoes tempered with cumin seeds. serves 4

1 Meat some el in a kwarh fir,' pan. add the carom

vegetate

seeds and fry ante they crackle. Ste on tie eager and

1 rreacred lease.° curl, seeds

garlic puree and saute until a gees eage ,, y bow,

20 2/4,

and acme puree

Wee Lobo oat 1 LYYSKS. Fed Chas powder sart

2 Sim in envois. powder and add enough water to make lardnriv ■ IFr a ernceltr. sauce -like cansrsleecr Season to tante oath sae

500p/1 b 2 or caitsWed melon. tweed ow cut Orb 2.5 crrwl woks,.

3 add rise Mates, me Item well win ine grew efe

for the garnish

4 Garn,r, noon the ground carrendef.gararn masara and

1 leaspoon ground corrarrtler

the chroppea corrantler bevel and serve

1 teaspoon pram rnesela IsLy page 637 C/100Ifed fract camerae, rearrer,

82

Trah

SrnInef gang, until tiny are tender.

Indian spinach bread

Palak roti

Oh. Indian bread is so delicious but its unrealistic really and truly for us poor Westerners to achieve the authentic taste because we don't have the landoor oven. Should you wish to purchase one. I tell you how on page 101. makes 6

I heal same DI in a Nara, ar truer pan, add the Came

ql

seeds and try wall they crackle.

1 tease., Como seeds 50-60 Ey2-25b or chopped cooked wrath leognt after al the eared has been squeezed out)

2 Alp the cumin seeds, sprach, Sow abd seri to taste and add enough able to make a bgab dew',

a Pbbe The dough into am portions and rya each one

25089 ex wheat Hour

rote a small ball, Men shape than , crooks eels a

salt

Own., or 15-20 ann5-8 inches_

maked borer a, ghee to, oahhhe the

4 beat a gndelle. blanche or a dry trying Pan and loan tee 05,5 evenly an both saes . 5 Rernbee the rob limn the pan and barn one ode ar

Chicken Dishes Unless you happen to have a backyard full of very long-legged, thin, scrawny,

bad-tempered chickens that eat nothing but

what they can scavenge from

the dustbins and scratch our of

the earth with their very long-toed. hideous.

gnarled feet, you

are going to have difficulty in capturing the authentic flavour of an

Indian chicken dish. The Indians do not have a

squeamish. and sanitised approach to food, unlike we Westerners who refuse to accept that chickens have hones, so, for a start, all the chicken used is cooked on the hone, the

es

r

oldut and the toughest ones are chopped into bite-sired pieces

(and rhar is the whole chicken, by the way. nothing is wasted)

and are simmered slowly in fragrant and spicy sauces. Young. but equally scrawny chickens are preferred for grilling and roasting in the tandoor oven. So. if you can try to find a source of fairly elderly free-range cockerels so char you can really enjoy the following recipes.

87

Chicken cafrael This chicken in green masala has the quite enigmatic flavour that vinegar - in this case while wine vinegar - gives to Goan cooking. The chicken can be barbecued. shallow-fried Of roasted in the oven. In my view shallow-fried is best because you can enjoy the Juices from the pan. It is very nice served with a little onion and tomato salad_ Incidentally, a legacy of the Portuguese occupation of Goa is that a lot of the dishes have English names. sores 4

1 GrInd are masala Ingredients adding e - Ngh vol-gar

fret-.age chicken breams vagetage or eccenui pi skit

to make a dry but tarry smolt, paste and season won son .

tea the mute

2 Make several missions In men cocker breast yam a zharp kmte and stuff earn some of Me maser.. then coat

25orni1 inch pieced rot:, ginger.

the ci-ocAen places on bath SdeS wino Me rest of the

peeled and chopped 2 or 3 clews of gatho. peeled Et handful of fresh conander leaves wen

no stalks teaspoon COnander seeds teaspoon black peppercorns 3 cc 4 cloves 4 cardamom pots a small one of cinnamon sacs 4 Of 5 Item green chillers. whew nine Dnepr

maseta. Leave to marinate lOr about 1 hour.

3 Heat some al n a pan and sballavelry the chicken Vea els lenge on both sides unlit the chicken is cooked

and the ttatde rs crisp. Season win salt and sax yam any residual pan minces_ if you pra4et to roast roar choker, dude a tine el over the rhasela.co.reo choker bassets and roast until ensp In a nor wen; do Me same magdyou are pangto barbecue mein

Hot and dry chicken curry

Kozhi masala fry

This is a Chettinad. a very hot and dry chicken curry that is typical of the Madras region. serves 4-6

1 Gend all the masa. legr.enls to a caste Heal some

vegetable crcoconut c

al. add be cinnamon sticks. cloves star ante and bay

2 cinnamonsbcks

leaves andhyunnl they crackle. Stine Ine choOved

3 or 4 clues

0.P.5 and saute unol translucent. Olen add the

1 or 2 peaces 01 war an.se

lwatueS and cote lame py owed rich tomato fraw

1 or 2 bay leaves 500 gal lb 2 oe red on.es, brely cropped

250 V) oc treader chopped Fpf2l. lb bracken paces pn tr.e tone

sal to the masa. I ieblespoon retina Canon I ranescoon Ireland fennel I tatenocon coma seats or small slack rnbster0 seeds 1 00 P/4 od vegar and garlic puree tree Page 561 1 lableseoon wound lurmenc 2 iahlespooes red no! powder 2 teasecons ground coriander

90 Chicken toner

2 Ste .n the magala parte atld ng a late eater if .5 tO0 do Add the cOokerl Puna., season web sale ceaer and Oak soapy lama me duel. , Peal ME dOreana are well coaled mm Ina gravy

Duck curry

Kosher harsher

The use of mustard seed oil and mustard seed paste is very dominant In Bengali cooking. and the oil certainly gives this curry a curious flavour. You must use it sparingly as I, for one, find it pungent and harsh. In fact, you may prefer to use a blander vegetable oil. but try both and make up your own mind. serves 4

1 Saute the sliced orhons in mustard seed ad unhl they

300 gl1I ax red anions, finely sloted

are Inn,vn hut not turn!.

rn.ard seed kit 1 Duck. &coped on Ine none..nlo morsels tee the masela eta. 10 gAl ox gararn mewl., 12 0.4 leave& 6 cla.s, broken sock pl cinnamore. 6 dr El cardamoms,

2 Then add the gararn inmate and fry until it crackles_ S Sir In the conander. turmenc and chilli pcveder. 17.11( well and cook until ire mixture Is rep loner powdery. Stn in Ile urger and gar, ia puree and enough caner -re mike a thick gravy. Sea.° enth sail

4 Pep in the owes at duck and ammer unviende,

,A.1:1(.1 grouse coriander

1 'ablest:100n ground turmeric 2 tablespoons red coal, powder 2131*st:eons gave, and gad. purée (see page 561 Chicken Dishes Cu

Chicken curry This is

Murgh masala

a

terribly simple curry, much favoured by the ParSi community. For curry addicts in a hurry it is not only authentic, but quite quick. You can. of course, use mutton or lamb if you prefer, serves 4

I Ink ail the masala lered.ents together in a bawl

negetabio cd or ghee

without any loud

2 red prunes. tneAy sked 4 or 5 red tomatoes, coarsely choOPe0 1 whsle ch.cken. weigh," about t V 214 lo on the Pone. clopped intO morsels. a 50U-600 Ilo 2 o, 1Vn Ib none!ess cl,cken, our into maseks (temente. -
2 Heat Me ml ar ghee are saute the onions on,l they are token brown.

3 Stir Ir the Maims and cook gently.. you Kaye. nch won end tans% grew. A. the masala and Oa wall. 4 Sao .n the eNchen and cod, gentry ,mil any hou.0 that comes from the meat Is absorbed into the grain, Continue cooiong until the mature a pu ,. 61,-

I teaspoon brown wear

5 Season tO taste we, WI. ads the Sugar and co ,,e, the chcken volt nate, gneg ru the boil, then Simmer gently

small handful of chem. fresh conander

until the chicken ■ s CeOlted and the all floats Iv me too of

ieaves I teespron garam mos. {see Page 611

ter the minela 1 cr 2 green [hill., coaise ,y clnecUed 2 blows ul garlic. peeled art ninety

thew,.

6 Botoro serving, sprinkle tee curry ,nth the chopped conan0e , leaves and a goad Won or gam?, macaw.

Ironed 23 snot] inch owe of roar ginger. DeeSod and finely &topem le.aspuix round unlash

rano, Cr, c powder

92 Chicken Dishes

,hevan/Aano,... rim...pour

Chicken with spinach Saag murgh Nees Of Chicken on the bone are cooked in a Spicy Spinach and tomato mratUre to Make a delicious curry.

semen 4

1 Grim! tegierrear the rresam ingredrents with a little water

ghee

lo lama paste.

11,024elusuiniach leaves. we! camel and drained 1 ktairis lb chicken morsels en me core ar StliC

2 ea chicken morsels.

Weed sell and P.M ,

2 Heat some goes in a pan anal sit-hy the sumach unbl sof, and Mated Pop it into a blender and process to a Porre. 3 in anoihar pan. heat some MOM pee and saute Ma chicken maces Lino , they are golden Season we , sail and MVP, and mt loons rude .

4tornatoes...ely chopped ]Cimarron Arch 2 ban leaves fa the allasele meresoeion ginger puree Isee page 56) 1 tanksppon garke puree (see page M) I mike red Doren, pureed 2 teaspoons red Mali powder I magi. around lenuareek

4 Heat some al in a pan any cook the chopped tomatoes, cinnamon sock and nay Manes until ihey turn into a rich tomato sauce or puree Me in the mosaic and continue ccaking lor 3 or 4 minutes_

5 Nov stir in Me saruch

Puriee and ma wee. Ma the chicken and any coaxing juices 'torn the pan. Cover

pan and simmer for about 15 minutes or unlit Ma chicken is cooked. If the gravy is toy Yr), stir in a tele water.

Chown Dshes 93

Chicken curry with saffron

Murgh kesari

This is a really rich and creamy sallromflavoined chicken curry. Not a dish for the

health

conscious!

wives 4 1 kg.,2 V. Ib conch. Chicken morsels salt

lemcn Iuiu 1110 gc, re unsalted comlew nuts nee, 2250 ue red arms, peeled ghee or butter Sheered irreh orPap) , VIck. broken Into hakes Or 5 green canarnorn cods. crushed .or 4 whole cloves or 4 doves al gar!, peered .and pLeeel k asi 1 inch pea of roc, pile, pealed and Pureed caPna ,C ,e, yaghurl. Ilsoraughly whisked .11 2 ladeSCCanS cold war Os bd. stilt, whored up*. Ponder wdh2 Ice cubes a_ wry genacC.S. FOCI , or sebbon threads IPlefsfSbleln PP.00l wherever possible)

'1/2 cup daubte cream clopped t reeh canard. leaves

logamrsh

xayn nu mn ere., oflnams on.

and,

1 Pia the chicken .n a Oisn, spsnkls 0010 s311 and leaven sate and leave to marinate far 1 he._ Moarn.vn.le. put

lha cashew nuts in a [owl, our m enaugh mix In [moor and leave lo soak for 1 hour. then booster to a food processor or blender ane pate. Ohs limo asks., until Crider. drain and puree In a Icod

process& or 3 Heal some ghee or near re a pen and satM The cinnamon, cardernun pods and oltnes ken add the ported garlic, ginger and weary pod stir - Iry until the Mans ken Sally Oder_

4 lip:Puce Olt Peal and MI in the vol,pped or blendecf Yoghurt sae The sa.on 5 Ade Ms .:hicks. pEPPS and simmw gerrtly !or 5-10 rpnules. hirer the cashew out OksPe oed ma ‘wit

Continue cooking genvy unie Ise cnCken is lender. 6 Stir In the double cream, garnish ram or,opoca corrandar teaves and serve.

Chicken cooked with yoghurt

Murgh ki kadhi

In the recipes that call for yoghurt, coconut cream or indeed cream, always add it over a low heat and continue cooking over a law heat so that it doesn't curdle. And of course yoghurt always makes a dish quite mild so you can offer your guests a little dish of chopped green chillies to spice it up if they so wish. sows 4

I. Heat some al in a kora. or wok. atld the mustard seem

vegeta. NI

and ...wk.*, and try unta trey ,radde Add me

Sr': teaspoon mustard seeds

Orion,. tomatoes. green makes and tenor and co*

a pier Sr harm curry caves IU) 4,5 oz rad amp, male snooped 1000 oz tomatoes, finny cropped 25 et oz green chilies, crapped

1,01 sou rave a., gravy .

2 Ste In the conander seeds, ground coronae , red ponder. lumens and salt to tame

10 eih oz choppee root ginger

3 kid the ch ■ cMert pieces and red oldies and cook,

I teaspoon coriander sews

mr, Or the whit unto the ear, has reduced and the el has separated

I *mow ground coriander I teaspoon red en, wane• teaspoon ground tunne,c can 500 el le 2 az chcken morsels 2 whole red unifts IC0 m1/4 It oz natural yoghurt

96 Co tree Cashes

4 Um.' the ,eat. stn m tee yoghurt and coo, gently prul one tnckerl d C0011:4010., 0130500.

Chicken with tomato gravy

Murgh tikka makhani

In this dish chicken Is cooked in a rich tomato gravy scented with fenugreek leaves. awes 6 vegetable oat

1 our all Ina cneedents fcr Ina tomato glary in a pan wan a lick Isalec being to the COI and cook lor a few

4 cc 5 closes olgacc, peeled and mob

nvneed Cool slgrytly. men Pelee cl atoll PmdeSSon er

chopped

blender to mane a smeath red Vac,

87:0055 lb avicken Mantle 2 at 3 noiesmens tenuarestt turves salt and MOP. 160

.7( d,h-P Cream

2 Heat some al and hymn clIOPOed Bark until brown Add the eddeen Paces and stlf.fry urea they are golden. 3 Pouf tr. the tomato gray and Sir/1111er genlly pnbi the c I5d ven rs almost cooked 5hr tn the fenugreek leaves

don,

ana season won salt and rower

for the lenido gravy

4 lull tefore senint stir in the cream, ma Ohm and the Whey,

5 cnd2 a'cit OieCe at root pager. peeled and chapped 5 or 6 fresh glean eludes 5 peen na.darmm pods I least:our rued canard," I teaspoon ground cinnamon It teaspoon ward mope 3 Ord cloves Sicken Dcnes 97

Tandoori Dishes There is no mystique to a ❑ndoor oven. it is simply a conical orbe of sun-baked day with a wood or charcoal lire laid at the bottom and with an air vent at ground levd. The idea is that. because of us shape. there is first the hear from below and then reflected heat sitar comes front the internal wall of the oven. Food to be cooked is threaded on to a long skewer and placed upright in the tube. You will get exactly the. ame effect rain a wood-fired pizza oven and yen can achieve a similar effect by grilling tandoori dishes over a charctral barbecue. You can. of coots, make the folloning dishes taste quite good in an ordinary oven hut, without demist, cooking tandoori recipes over wood or charcoal in an enclosed clay or brick oven will give you the very lent results. 100

If you actually own a tandoor oven, you will know that you have to invert the large laden skewers vertically in your tandoor. Gravity dictates that the food will slide down the skewer if you do i take l certain measures ro avoid this. The best solution isr to the very end of the skewer {nearest

I to stop the food sliding down. When your food is coked, : rdthepoasiwlburnteyodcgi. ow if you fancy a trip to Amritsar in the Punjab you can

it down Tandoori Alley and have a tandoor custom built. e lady will mix clay with water and coconut fibre 3 nd over uple of days handcraft you a tandoor to your specifications,' While you're waiting I suggest you stay with my Friend Sanjai the M.K. Hotel for a couple of days while the oven is sun'ed before it is cured inside with a mixture of mustard oil, ry (sugar/. yoghurt and ground spinach. In July 2001 urchased for about 70 pence a randoor oven that stood 3 fe .

gh. -Unfortunately British Airways warned, in my opinion,

absolutely outrageous sum of money per kilo to Ay it back to

and I changed our airline to Emirates, who were pleased to ha ,

op

our business and our filming equipment. Classically, tandoori dishes are served with some very, very th'

Filish, raw red onion rings, a wedge of lime, thin dices of cucum

' - and tomato, and mint and coriander chutney (sec page 173).

•

Tandoori chicken Probably the most popular tandoori dish is tandoori duckern. The secret of its success lies In the marinade and in the quality of the chicken used It really is important to use a genuine free-range bird that has also got a bit of experience. By this I mean a bit of a tough old bird! This version of the traditional dish is adapted for cooking in a domestic oven. Serves 4-6

1 Score The chcken on the heeast thighs and legs. Me

1 rricke, cleaned and skr.d.

together the ingredients for the chill, manmade, aodng

vegetable of tor Panno

enough femur Juice to make a paste to rub all over the

foe the chilli marinade 2 teaspoons red cd1111 ponder

chicken. ■ r■ pde and eut_ Smear d over the thicken and lean ler 30 mini._

a 14 parch dean

2 vin,a all the mgf echen13 for the creamy marinade into

temdn

a M. PaSle and !Owed,' arbor the ma,rtade over The

let the mean,' rnatinaele 1,,aspodc gr.do'd cum , 1 teaspoon garner puree (see page Sal

CliCker, ...and out. Mow to mannate m the lodge

for at lent 3 mars 3 Place The bad On 3 /0.3511N racI, me, the tray

1 'rotes., Idnger Puree (See page 561 a p ■ nch of saffron threads

undommth b data any 3.05 and bake In Me oven Preheated to 130. 4157T0Gas Mark VA our about

about 1 cup cream

20 minutes and Then .13Cls up me h.; to at beast

about 1 cup Ydanun

113C,C550°F/Ges Meek 4 era conk .nui tne bill is a.m. ready.

Note

4 Baste wth al one cook fora further couple of moues.

You can do etactiy the same thong

men sense needs to be apo , ed here. Th....,

eel large. shelled. oere.ned (PSI

The clacker. 1.016 be sleghltycnspronewn a Wee he

venom Itre thin inteetthel woo That

0,011 en The outs■ de but moat and lender on treason.

Dens down du WO of each pew: prams or with fiem of akmnea am boned bah If ems preens -and they mud, he large - run a Nada down the Intel, of the proven so that gp¢n coak

102 Tandoori Dishes

butterrbes as

Tandoori prawns

Tandoori jhirtga

It is essential that you have very large raw prawns for this dish_ They can be threaded on to SkerwerS or lard straight on the barbecue grill or en a grill pan.

guI

person

as many urge prawns per person as you tee like panne br Meted honor or ghee

tear truce I tcespnrnchuul maw. tsee Lucre 611

for the marinade iennue h for about Ehnen prawns/. 6 tea swans ginger and panic puree (sea

1 Remove tne hese, and the Snail ham each maw ON Save The rail on. Our a Snip clown the back of the pant and remove me lhln tack inteanai vein_ Fallen each ...671 very sightly.

2 Whisk together !he marinade Ingredients Smear Me prawns mil the manmade and Mere them tor 2 hours.

3 Fuehuat Ore pd. barbecue

Or 1@ld00( dean. Thread

the prawns en lo skewers. a unnng and cook for afloat 19 minutes .

Page 561 juice of 1 lemon or brie

a Remove the prawns hem The ,neat end baste rah

3 teaspoons warn tour (chick pea Sow)

butter pr ghee ace lemur, mice 5.nkle wan -cheat

I teaspoon pram rnasala lsee page Fat !luso:. red or yalba 00111 powder

masa. ern r eturn to me heal 1.4.1u finish Mem off.

Ib leasouon ground bane. salt

2 CVPS Fattest yoghurt

Tandoori rashes 103

Minced lamb kebabs The is a really erotic kebab Indeed it is the maharajah of kebabs A common version of thls dlsh would probably lust be minced lamb, a bit of mint, bit of green chilli, lad of coriander and a bit of garlic slapped onea Skewer This one, however, iS rather special volt a long list of temper ng - that Is to say [favouring or seasoning ingredlents It you cannel get some of them, do not be dl scnuraged, just leave them nut and do the !Oast you can. makes about 20 WO 0 1 0

2

1 Me lea whole lot ingetnef

of rtut(etl Idmb

pit tp adblmg

sa,doemareut12_5env5 ircoeslone 2 Preheat

treI tc m peeing _•ree (see page 56 •_

your haws In cold

water io enable you m mould the motors eta thin

wee (SE. page 561 ori.on paste (see

r,gt teolespoon grated Ire. emend! 2 taalespoons neural yoghurt 2 le olespoons cream 2 teaspoons Ireshty ground black pepper

ttb teaspoon ground cinnamon Yes teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon cumin seeds ./a teaspoon ground Sack cardamom

Onset le) 1/2 teaspoon ground mace

1 teaspoon crashed poppy seeds If cossIblet 1 teaspoon red chllll ponder 3 tablespoons gram 01cm Ichclipea 1 oblespoon finely chopped Fman molt Jeer. 1 tablespoon finely cropped fresh al-render leaves 1 teaspoon ground papaya 1,1 poneine] sal and pepper no male

Gpixer Tancem-roasba slur. oeppers lizoP

104 Tandoori Dishes

toe griii, oatk}e,ue or tonopor

SoJeeze me sausages tight.ly on to a skewer are rook anirl trap, on tr., anls,de ax, lender on ine insele -

Vegetarian tandoori kebab This is a kebab of vegetables, cheese and fruits. delightfully marinaded, which can be roasted in a tandoor or slightly charred over a charcoal barbecue or grill. Cut the ingredients into uniform. bile.sized pieces that will loch attractve threaded on to a skewer, Increase the amount of marinade depending on the number of kebabs you are serving. current weer mee awel83)

red or green ranger, deseeded and o.th removed and cut .nto squares peeled red onions, cur Into wedges tomatoes, cut Into wedge s fresh oreapple or mango, cat into cubes

for Use onarin•de krw000rn garam 'se.: ;see page alt 4 leasomns cftaat.asata (see page ell juke of 2 or3 lemons or limes vegetable oil salt

106 iendoon Lhshes

1 Mir logetner ell Inn mannade ngtechenIs and chucl ■ 0, the cheese, .getable and fruit Lee.e to mannate to, 2 hours

2 Thread de trut veaebbles and cheese on to the st.ewers

attracts,. red, green and white son or way

and g7.1i until lender and slightly browned

Tandoori-roasted stuffed red or green peppers Instead of large peppers you can use several little ones and make up the amount of filling to suit the size of the peppers you are using. Serves 4

1 5.,ice the top on each pepper and ceseroe the lop for a

4 et or oven peppers of a urverm site vegetable nil Of ghee fix She =Ella

lid. Remove Me nth and seeds 2 Heat some oit or ghee, and the cumin seeds to the masala and try Lett they CirdOle. SU, rn Me rest ot the

1 easexe cone seeds

masa. reWeeient. adding sant to taste. and cook Ice a

1 teaspoon gad, puree {see page 561 1 teaspoon erne,' puree (See page 561

moment To release the gamuts .

3

MI the vegetables lot Ire stuarg and str.fry one the

!,s teaoppon amen, masala Ise, Page 611 117 teaspoon rep ohm powder

oil separates. Remove kern the hey end allow to tool.

eh,

4 Once the Vegeabes and manly are

cox and the cashew nuts. resins or sultanas, canal der and COUP

tor the dulling

cheese

a Selectan et very finely Mopped re shredded vegetables. such aS green

5 Shill the peppers wen Me mature end replete the ads.

beans. carrot, white cabbage, ownn

,rush 0e peppers Min au and balm m a hot oven roc

and peas (Me gumtrees WI depend

atvel 15 encase. cevend.ng on the sue Olthe coupon.

Ailenutnoy, cool, them under Me grill a thiena Orem on

upon the we or corollary of yOur

to skewers and place in a land., teen until the peppers

PePeerSt 1 tablespoon crushed trine* nun

one conked.

1 tablespoon inns on sultanas 1 tablespoon chopped fresh cooanzle , Neaves CUP oh crumb./ pare. (see

Page 1831

Tandoori fish Often in India a flat fish called pornfret is used for this ash, but you could use red mullet. bass. or indeed. any whole fish. In the event of a fish such as a bass or mullet. clean and de-scale the fish. I used nomfret here. pet person svn DO, bat,

1 C, 10, 4 sashes on born sides of are fish. 2 Whisk togelhe, all the rrigredients tor the marinade lo form a fairly M.N. pas.. Smear the fish thoroughly.

far the marinade (enough for 4 fish) V: COD .0104 yogh, V, WO c.a. 2 teaSOconS ground oLi^. 4 teaspoons garlic wee into rage 581 4 wasp.. Vier Ou r. 5.L.• 04. nut 1 Masao,. grarel lurmann 2 teaspoons red oho powder The iuie of I or 2 lemons a good omen of salt 4 teaspoons gram flour (chickpea tom) pepper

108 Tandoon Dishes

inside and oul, we the mannade and leave to Stand in the fudge for at least 2 hours 3 a you happen to hate a land= oven, skewer Ore fish from Meal to tall and cook In the oven tar about 10 minxes it not, heat the pa unlit it rs very hot dace the ksh on a lath and grill for about 10 minutes. Just belete

n o ready, baste with

S c a nned&Conv er t edt oPDFbyF F Cc ot t a ge

Yallbf

iFA-Cra

Cook ,-

Foof)

Fish As is common in most other countries, good fish and

parricularly shellfish arc very expensive in India and most of the fish on sale in the smaller towns and villages is undersized and of poor quality. But nothing is wasted — fish heads are used for curries and where the fish arc big enough to have backbones, they as with lamb and chicken, are cooked on the bone.

One of the most popular fishes is called a pordrer. Is is a flat fish and absolutely splendid for shallow frying, grilling or

112

barbecuing. and you will he able to find this in many cities in Britain these days. However. the choice of fish is a very

p ersonal eking so just because I recommend, for example, monkfish or bass, you can in Fact substitute any fish that

113

Prawns in coconut milk

Jhinga ularthiyathu

This

is a fragrant, creamy, yet tangy, dish of prawns cooked in coconut milk. It is a relatively dry dish — the prawns should end up being coated in the sauce, rather than swimming in it. serves 4

1 Cover the pieces al tamer nd ear a Kee water. ennui

2 9, 3 pieces of aflame

the had and simmer for 2 a 3 rnnuteS. then set aside tor

the 52V.. lb raw tier prawns. shell on

INednvellrle. rernave the rear and Shell from each

AJKO 013 hales

peen but eave the lad sheRce.Cur eon the back 01

2 .1 ssertssoossens.sw wm , a. sal!

each P.. , so that they wan open up like Putternies At. Cooked. Wel the pant ol the khrfer MFR./env

2 5 9.1 rch piece of roof swear peeled

can hack .ntestinal an that runs doon on back or the prawns. Mu loget5e, the Irme 1111CO,IIIILWIL Slid salt

3 of 4 doves of garlic. peelad

and marinate the pawns in the mixture the fridge

coconut co

for 1 hour.

200 W7 az small red shallot, coarsely chow. 21easpoons WWI black mustard seeds

2 Idle together all the inpredentS for the masala. Puree the ginger and the garlic in • food processor. 3 Heat some cocanut oil in a can and M the shallots

a handfut Ot fr.) am lea es 6 small tomatoes, Cut ,410 4oarlers min Ilse seeds removed

until sat Add the moslard seeds era fry until they crackle. then or in the powdered rnasala and cook

St cup slivers of hash OCCOnull

gamey for 2 or 3 mmutes. unta yotl nave a d. smooth

about 500m1/1811.7 coconut oak

Paste. Stir in the pureed gager and game. then the curry eaves, tamannd ane me tarcanndearared Nate r

ter the away

4Eld the tomatoes end coconut sheen and a tree rater,

about 20g/4, as 100 porter

if necessary.

about 15 p/H2 az ground coriander I teaspoon around turmeric

4 Add the prawns. teen gently sot in the coconut conk

I teaspoon black pepper

and simmer tor 3 or 4 minutes pal the preens are

abort 10

ground cinnamon

coo.er and the grey is thickly coaling the prawns.

(Wet 1005 Pivot. cardamon ,

109141 or ground closes 1 tea 5P0O5 wound tel

119 Esh

5 You thnk the In, Ls a Otte runny. remove the prawns

abort

and keep them wenn. Reduce the gravy until 4 is thicket one trier return Me prawns to the Pan

Alleppey fish curry

Macchl

Alleppey

This is a creamy and spicy dish with an intriguing sourness created by slices ot

unnipe

mango. it cones from Alleppey, a coastal town in Kerala.

awes 4

1 Blend the masela Ingredients 10 a smooth pas* wah

I. large redone, finely dread

at water. Fry Ike olden welshes !nearme acme. unhl golden brown. Add the rnasale paste arida liar e

and oil 2 smelt unppe TreSh mangoes. ceded

water and conk mar a Ion heal unt I you have a nice neh. manly sauce. Add the sheed raw mangoes and peak fo ,

and geed I ha.2 ., Ib flint fW Nets. sup , .

, m■ nutes 1.1.0 Ilse mango diem hare

mankfish. swerdrish en large red

mitered. dies add Thu rich cubes. SOr3SO., coin 54, t and

5.31, OrVr.Orrr rrIrr COO ,.

s ■ mrna• tom line fish is inked .

can

2 Far the garcon. neat same [peon, oil in a separate

far the manila

Oac aid set -ler pre shale. [Am softened And the

Scups grown Ira. [annul

mustard and fenugreek seeds and fry until they crackle.

25 WI en [NI. poode.

glen solcray ado the curry leaves and stibtoionol they

10 pun or good an turmeric

are seghtly artisans and glistening. Sons , s me Fe

10 /1/2 or peeled and chopped root

over the fish curry ens serve.

enter GI rash peen chillies,

aDpwd

ten the garnieh ccconus oil 2 scull red ShafletS, reeled and IThaly geed 1/2 teaspoon small black mustard seeds 1/2 leaspom len ■dgreek seeds 10-20 rms., curry leaves

*couplec

Fish in a banana leaf Each fish is wrapped in a banana leaf to cook. sealing in all the flavour. If you can't find banana leaves. use large pieces of kitchen toil instead. I have no idea what the Indian name for this dish is - I devised it on a beautiful beach fringed with banana trees in Conlin. Sen. 4 ,,,ce or 6 Itenes 10 ph or ground ludnanc stun 4 small fish, such as mackerel, trout, or red 'nutlet. weighing about 225 ea cc sad, scaled, cleaned and de.finnel Rave head anci pit on) e mend, oil 4 small red onions. tnely chopped

▪ tomatoeg rows* chopped

ar ,48erher the lime pace, ball Pre Iurmnlc one some can and nvrinale lee }eh In ties nurture tp 1 MI.

2 Heat some Wen a pan and salve eke union unfilsort. Add the cupped tomatoes and cook until you have a nch tOrnato and on.on voce Then add the curry leaves ginger. gar,, green deal., dell, powder end rarnainina turmeric and cook unit no lover powdery. If necessary add a lane water and contedue coorung one, you have a 1644 wavy

3 Meanwhile, heal some

00 WI

a separate Pan unb14.1,

sprig of 6esh curry leaves

2.5 orr✓1 inch piece of root anger, peebd and finery choPPed clovesdprfo, peeled and rinery chopped

hot,enadrus obthWedsOu crepe, but the flesh is not cooker/1'4%e each fish o4 a banana mai and Cover 0 wen some or the wavy. 5,466 some chOPPed umander leaves on ado,

6 green Orates, coarsely c6ouced

Podren. to, the berme leaf nee a packet and bake kr

20 p/44 or red chilli peed.

/00.10 minutes in a not cram

4 banana leaves chapped fresh mender leaves

116 For

Spicy fried fillets of f ish Meets varuval Any t rinaleshed fish, such as salmon. swordfish or monkfish, can be used for this dish but the fillets must come from a be fish. serves 4-6

1 Season the fish tole, v.', the

800 glIfia lb honed and donned fillets of

sate

Ion. cut mlo paces about) Sant 3 ,oches try 4 [MI it inches and 12 mex/f.rw Inch 1111ck juice of 2 lemons salt 50 0/202 green challes 50 g2 of red shallots or men. chopped

, oce ard scce

Vend

■ •

on:o, gnge,....nefar ane turrner , ,t, a thick paste adIng a drop of water if neceSSa,

2 be. the rah Niels on Goth sides wen the caste. In a trying ur, heat some oil and Shallow , fry the tee until onion/ on holn odes.

52520r rod gown Pedal and chopped a teaspuns ordevi nap, - [rice onager would be goad/ tabfesoocc grOt,alturfr., .egetable or coconut of

Spicy prawns with mango

J ha-1ga thokku

For rho dish, prawns are quickly stir-fried with mangoes and spices for a stunning combination of fl avours. You can use tiger or any large fresh prawns. serves 4 alb WI a 2 of large fen preens shell on 200 8/7 oc red omens hnely sr , ced. small red shallo, 0 hoppw vage-ladeo, cam, Pa I tablespoon ground commit,

1. Remove pie Nee and shell from each prawn. Woe the pant a. a twat.. fame the to Wad, aftestnaf ven that runs level the tack of the praNne

2 SautP VW mons or Amt.& ne spine dl .10 translucent Stir in Ina ground coriander and [Orb powder and cook for 2 of 3 minutes

2 tablespoons red orof pov.ca

3 Add eleternercesand continue coetona unhi tch have

220 gll nu remakes steel

dmotegrated and have amalganotalsveilwith tne somas

2 rnethum mangoes ueled and diced

and Mona.

Chopped hem conceder leaves 10 gamrsh

4 Su, a me diced nrveltesand col* slowly until they here softened. Add the infarcts and shr•fry lot a minute on env. until cooked to your saUslaction Ganush.M1 [f-coped conander leans and save

110 Fish

Mackerel recheade This is a typically Goan dish, distinguished by the vinegar-flavoured masala. It is a perfect barbecue Olen, but equally suitable for very shallow-frying. The finished dish should have a crisp, crunchy skin_ If you don't like mackerel, use trout or red mullet. names 4 mackerel. Our.. de- soame old cleknneo, al, hem and lad let on

1 Make 3 snake, incomes on arther ode or Ma fish pith a V., knile Season the 'WI tn.& and out oath sad peppercorns and hone or lemon ,Loco aod manna,. to , 15minutesor

crushed bock peppercorns juice of 2 or 3 Imes or rernocs a OMle pLun lloor

2 Mennwhite, grindmemowera echents to fine Paste min the crept.

vegeta* or coconut of

3 Apply . paste to the inside el Me fish ana into.

Mr the ma.ala 6 01 7 toed red chi.

4 II shaI dealMng Me bah. dredge them m a lade flour

1 teaspoon cumin seeds 5 76 cloves of gado peeled

1 tadespoon ground Turmeric 1 teaspoon black peppercorn.,

2.5 coin inch pone of •oat ginger. Peeled 4 a 5 cardamom pods I sroas onnarnon stick 27 3 olokos I heaped tablespoon sup! 2 tab,esp0Ohshny dry proons Imailade Vero Man food skops ., or a dash of fish sooty thla II oz Ten wine vinegar

masons on Me atm.

Crab curry Kekada raseclaar This delicious dish is messy because you have to crack the crab claws and eat with your ringers. but it is worth it! The stylish host would provide rosewater fingerbowls for the guests. serves ,'

Heat some et in a can. add the mustard seeds a.

vegetable Of rocono °a

Cory lea. and cook until IN mustard saes cockle.

1W:111:spoon small black rnusted seeds

10 - 15 trash

cure tedvt,

100P4 no red onion a en ideas.

bnelY mopped J50 W5 oz tomatoes. chopped Ii0n5p0On wound turnenc

Otbleswen led chili powder

258/1m wrge, and garIC puree Nee Per 561 501 ,r218ii co, coconut ntlk 2 or 3 snail raw crabs pa

person.

chop,. in nail, Cleaned out, gels and stoma:11 sar removal ant the C41,5 lacked

a baneful ol wag Mean curry leaves or fresh rent ofceandee ro to

2 Stir in he onion o‘ s.11ot and saute until set, then add the chopped tomatoes and cook until you nave a nch tomalo and onion gravy .

3 Stir in the turmeric and roe ossider and rook unti iK roe Barber dsappeafs. Ado a tame xeref lc nelc you do ems, it necessary.

4 Noe sbr an Weepier and garlic

gleet and lee

COCOn0tmlit and simmer gently until you Nve a nicely

an.gan.ated gravy. Season to asteteth salt ?Pen pap Ln 0P oral's and COP, them gently until the sobs, rove turned lea.

5 If using curly key. For the garn ■sh, quIckty str-fry hero In very hat cal and sprinkle them over gle crabs. Alterralreely scatter well fresh mint or ceiander leaves ant serve.

surest, acne neseretnewx., wrrs cunt an. r can.on Irre nhennnnPneonaneacn new f4,nrreans Coe. woad.

Mussels with green masala

Thisra

Mussels are cooked In their shells r n a herby green masala and coconut gravy. Make sure you buy fresh mussels and clean them thoroughly. serves 4-6

1 Scrub the musses under runmog water and clet.ard retteSEVS for as Many as you

rya, rt

Mem Ire, vathyour forefinger and thumb, squeeze each sheIrseleway, to by and open a 3 the mussel

vegeaVe or occonul

doesn't suede, of means rl snot loved veto the fine mod

2 red owns. finely Mc.

Mat you occasionally frnd in a batch of mussels. Throe

000 mV14 fl pi can coconut mild

away any open mussels. Dram Me mussels and keep

set

cool.

tat the mega

2 Grind an the MeSala ogreden, Into a pane, adding a

a very generous handful of fresh

erne water. ■ I necessary .

o.adder teases Inc stalks) a small handful pf fresh mint leaves Coo statist 1 onnamon sr.oh 6 eke.

Neat the oat Ina pan and sat. Ins onions until Tay are soft. sat m the leas.. and cook for s tea moments, then acid Dm
10 or I2 Slack peppercorns

4 Add the mussels Is the pan and reek per a rnel.um

2.5 cm/1 pooch noece or root ginger. unwed

neat untal the snells nave OW.. Discard any Mal

2 comas 0.2,1. peeled

hertz peen.

1 leaspCon room, homer,

5 or 6 fresh green chilies 2 4...spoons tamarind psree (see

Page 571 Be. AIme weer ..0100 ra ma Awnt m Gas.

Dry clam curry The masa ha in this curry and the green rnasala used in Mussels with green masala (we Pleibeite) combine well with virtually any shellfish. serves 4 3 mall fedora:11s, finely chopped 3 or a tomatoes_ finely chapped

1 Saute Ine 00.115 arC !crepes In theal until you have ,Ch iun cle cauve Shoff Inn maSala ingredients to rnahe a smadht caste

vegetable all 3 or 4 wean chillies, finely chow., 9006-1,35 kg2-31b goad-sizea clams sat chaaped fresh coriander lea., to @Amish for the rnasala I teryesacon ground taffr,enc Ih tital.as.n palely crashed maul,

PelVa.Uuuu 2 caves al gadc , ppeierc 25 caul mon pieced fi.tgivgef, pealed lucre of I or 2.5.5

2 St, Inv peen chilies into the Somata and anion aura aria cook for a SheC.Ae. Ada the rnasala and continue coolun5 unhl you Mere a rich. dry. gravy. 3 Add the clams and net gently until Play open. They should exude enough I,earel to dampen gra, it not add a attic-we.. Seas. to L9.11111 sae, pre eh yarn the chopped coriander WM, era save,

Fish curry Bengal-style Dor

macchi

Fish Inlets are cooked in a spicy gravy that os cooled with natural yoghurt. serves 4

I Heat sd.rt mustard seed oil ir a pan, and the bay

mustard seed oil

tees., cinnamon. mace and cardamom pods and fry dribi they dac We.

4 bay ieaveS 2 cinnamon slicks 2 a3 Pieces or mate 4 or 5 ,note cardamom pods 5-or 6 fresh green chiller, shced 2591 az ground turmenc 10 era of ground launder 2500 01 red onto puree Nee page 56) 15 95,1 or ginger tutee {see page 561

2 Add IM oiled 00110es ant stirdry Sr a moment or two, Men mm 0 ire grouna ',mem and pomander and try for a few moments l0 cook ...Muds, Stir in ihe phion and Anger Purtes, runt wet and then and !Mug, water to make a smooth gray".

3 Over a lino heal whisk in the yoghurt until you have a oRainy grosy. Take care not to overheat the gran or it

300 mulOg or -Law.. yoghurt

will curdle. Poo in the Ssis pieces. season wan a 1411¢ salt

ES1Ogrl '4110 skinned and boned firm

ark sugar and nmmer geulry un/al the pots is cooked.

1. Fillets all sugars 50 "2 oz raisins or toasted nuts, to gam.

124 Fish

Garnish with the raisins or nuts and save.

Steamed fish fillets Paturi macchi Fish fillets are coated in mustard paste and steamed in banana leaf parcels for a beautifully tender result. If you can't find banana leaves. use pieces of kitchen foil. serve. 4

1 Grin all the mustard parle Ingredients. except tne

506 g/1 3” in toned and 541n. lien

green Iasi enc,p,h sit to crake a caSte Than SP e pie snooped Ch.M.

fillets. cut •nte tO Gml MOT SOU... some 12 rnro/55 inch thick banana lee., cat alto 20 125 cm/ 8 g 5 inch rectangles lane re earn f•sh soaves

kr the mustard paste

2 season west um,

San acs thee coal the listl

KW,. an both saes wen tne mug.' oast. and *rap eat, one in a neat Wane Sal onset and N{yre milt a ex.] sick.

3 Heat Itle water in the bane el a steareer a senreenna point, put the lrsh in ale steamer. cover with a uenshtma

2 teaspoons lea chip fonder

lid

a...swain to, d- 5 minutes. unbleached.

2 teaspoons ground turnenc 1 taotesroon i ■ nper.,C gable pueelsee Cage 561 .gar to taste mustard oil 6 'fresh green chair, mopped

For 125

Chingri malai curry Large prawns.

such as tiger prawns, are cooked with cashew nuts and coconut milk.

Serves 6 8,12 large ra.a prawns, snail en mtge.IP en

1 teaspoon cardamom pods a couple -of bay leaves 1 cinnamon sock alznart tell a 4C0 m1/19 fl az can coconut milk sag

142 n1V5 0 02 earlan olvngre cream. , necsary for the masale 21caspoons red ch.11, wader e 33, unsalted, .nd a Pow ble cosinew nuts. ourted wen a !Miami 21e.350,0n5 gram. lurree , 2.3 red win, paced_ enopped, holed and purfral 25 cmll inch piece all ginger and 3 or 4 cloves of garlic, hat, efface' and ground la a paste

I Remove ire bean an o snail ',DM each tree, leaving me all shell or, With Inc cant of a knife remove the min black intestinal vein that runs dam the tank of irie sane 2 'Aix together all tha nasals =nigrechents of in a pan. add the cedarnom cods, bay iea3es and cinnamon sick and try unlit they crackle, then $111111 the mesala and meek unal west omaboaolvd vnm the cd 3 0, er a saw 30,1 5,1 111 ti,:ccenutmnx ane ma well _ CeouS bn seaxmng —yen May want te arid some sal., If the grey" K incx, -tro a w3n a Ale single cream , a0d the 0,0.5.arld sewer car, gently until the pawls are C003.31.

Sian 121

awe duleaseu. Made - sea lulu., ars

Green fish curry

Macchi kovalam

nos Fish curry from Madras has a subtle flavour ancl a fresh green colour serves 4

1 1O make the rneada. put the odor ut into a bpd

12 small adu rrsf eua'als

Procesior and process to a wee add all Mb rnne made ingredients. Sinme feed me

10:1 ea -a rte omen. nnely chopped 100 el Co tamale,. finely chopped 25 00 g nge, and garkc puree (see amm 56/ salt elk WI lb 5 or boned and dunned fish chunks, such as Dad, roll mullet Cr Mum

uuder and mint leaves Id podding, end gone to o page. tel code 2 Saud he shah smelt, some al and they crack open and are golden. Remove he shallots hum he pan and put to one side. Fled some more od and saute re mopped omen until Vans/odd Add the icmaloes. hen sta the Onward garlic away. seder! 015 soh and cook unlit you hays a rich hided sauce.

for the mule SOO oz fresh coconut 0-10 fresh green chilies, chop,ed

3 Snr in the nasal end. d It evade. add a Mk valor . Conk the dyad unfit you have a rob gram.

wail hencea of fresh unhand*, leaves

4 Add he fish area shiner Renal , until Inc fish Is hgMry

small heredul dfresh not leaves

cooked At the

nm.. pop in the mecommo

shalms Chop Ile reserved mint and corantler leaves, scatter them over the fish and sane

128 Fish

Goan lobster curry This curry can be made with fish fillets instead of lobster or crayfish. if

yOu prefer

-useacoplfthikseofyurchi.sknedabo amen 2

Gnna tagethet the mesas , hgteefients tan a Me cater

regetatte a coconut

al

1 smaa red wean. Fnely chopped 2 or 3 hesh green owes_ chopp. 40K0 rrela a ex can cccoree nelh

ta make a smooth oasts

2

Heat some rel and sae. toe anion Intl transoeent

men son the gmen chores. Stir al the mazes baste and cook un•l ra longer pomdery.

sat 1 fresh bees,ur pr crayfish, as togas yoll can afford. Cut tengehwaYS m heti. rf. eons CPe and any gunge In the bead iemoere 3 or 4 perks of tarnarod

3 add the coconut milk. season wAth salt It necessary. are cook for

a few moments. until you have a smooth

gravy. Add the blister ant the - Imes of smarms are canto,e cooking gene, ler c or 8 minutes. until Inc lobate is coded.

tor the masala 6 or 7 oink red mullet PinCh ot cumin seeds 1 tablespoon Fauna erne -it

2 teaspoons

COrlandef weft

a ar 5 black peppercens

2 caves of garlic.

DN.

25 cm, 1 Inch pace of rot anger . u. •

Ohm Ao ecenop

Fist

Meat Dishes 1 , 1,1,11r-y HI

I

11111, 1

I

,

I

Beef ularthiyathu This Is a dry curry inasmuch as the dish is cooked long enough for the meat to absorb all of the cooking liquor. It should still be moist and taste spicy and slightly sour. serves 4

largo red neon finely diced

1 Blend all lie rnasala repedients to a Wankel' and 9p into a convenent container .

coconut c, ,pteleraVy1 11421.4.eSterelna beef. 001 into bse Died oecei 1 cap silted fres, coconut 7 heaped tala ■ es.n slivers of penes to. ON., 1/2 saneglass W nett ca rte vnegar a song at fresh curry leaves lee the morale 1 onnamon 5,Ck

SO doves dessertSDoonSCorandn seeds is teaspoon lonagreel, seeds

2 Fry the finny 1[W red onion in some 10000 01 oil until it softened. Ow in the udwdered masale mo.,na well 0,3 tre 41 and onion. and cook cimr a Ore heal lot a minute ore. Odd the meat. =or ut anger, smear and about 10 a< 12 smart curry leaves. Ste thvOurle so that toe meat Is coropletery coated Olin the rnesala rem 3 Ad:enough eater to lust cover the meat, fhensonar gently untilthe meal e lender and has snitches the 6000 DUI 15

as , men!

4 For 1,0 garreSe, heat some coconut oil rn a s.Par010 n end radkily try the red 5,511015. Str kn die fenugreek and mustard seeOS so aid they orafft ■e fora second.

',teaspoon smell black mustard seeds

then 50i1110 add the too leaves and orary 01,1 lily

1/2 teaspoon cixan seeds

are Ditty on.ncno dark green and gi sterling_ Out not

1 dessertspoon groans turn1enc

0e,11. Sprinkle the lot ever the beef and serve

1 dessertspoon chopped fresh red chillies 0, 1 seer. dessenscoor cn II 00.301 1 teaspoon black peppercorns teaspoon renal seeds

fee th. garnish 3 Lid small red shallots, Peeled and comsely chopped teased° , 1en1000 seeds teaspoon small black mustard seeds a nar,d,u1 of tresn curry eaves Note In all moron ow. curry Naves, Math. , sne kaves are an acceplaele subshtote. They can usually be 101nd rn the Dui secton of seec,atist Iced shoos.

134 Meat Dshes

Goan beef vindaloo For those of us bought up on the ubiquitous Anglo.Indian beef vindaloo - that fiery, brown, sometimes red thing. washed down with copious amounts at lager the Goan version is an enchanting discovery. It takes its name from the Portuguese intervention in Goan cooking, OR (literally wine or vinegar in Portuguese) and Aloe {the Indian for potatol, and it is the easiest thing in the world to cook! genes 4

tele. III On mas.4 ,4 nrectleme. ado , n2 en0.4,

2 rep onions. ones cheme veg..* o, coo,. pi *an Mogi'', lb [kW boar for cork,

xnegatimkSbOtlicase. 2 Saute the cm!, ,n the Di until softened. 3p In the mesela ono cork Id a few moment.

Or Una Pa■vhS, shelled ar.d deve.ned: Or. g using lamb ar cniCInn. it 5 better

3 Stir in The meat Id dawns) and continverocookroir a

On Me bone: it you .aould late a

lewmIno. until me men and the maoLa have

vegetarian valdalon. scrap all me

amalgam.. Add sOliclent water In make a nth. far',

al..* and ,ust use warn., 3a 4 mel.ulr mazes_ peeled aNt cut .nto larly targe cuces

soya son

fink gravy and simmer gently until the moo a about had cooked. 4 Add the Walp [vbel and seaSOn vnth a line sugar and salt and cunt,ue cooking until vie meat is tender and the porn., are Cabaetl. The glary should be a

Ire the rnasale

natural, rith tad colour. although rn some parts of the

apout 15 du., red ch.es

world virdaleos are n wte .rnprcrperiy.

fresh wren Ihales a big 0000 roe anger. peeled I teaspaton tumn seeps I Mapco black aeppftm, 1 lassecon ground lurmer,

Dishes 135

Mutton stew Highly spiced mutton and potatoes are simmered in coconut milk for this slew. It is important that the coconut milk for the marinade is diluted - one part coconut milk to two parts water. The meat is brought to the boil and it you used thick coconut milk it would curdle and separate. serves 9-6

1 Ma calf a can or coconut mat mil twice that duanatv

two .00 meld fi or cans coconut mutt

O wafer to trim

I tteatla la rnurton Or Iamb, cut Into

Iamb Inn for about 2 noun in no India.

n and hen marinate the cubed moron

Icte.smed coma onatal about 150 W5 on small red shallots. coarsely chenPed I teaspoon small crack mustard seeds 9 os 5 fresh peen chaies, chopped

oessenspow pureed fresh lark 1 dessedspone pureed rod ginger

2 Mu together the masala miredtents. Heat some ucconut of and fry or Chopped shallots until gdoen, Add the mustard seeds and fry until they Gradate. Oen add me green chilies. Stir in the meted panto and poor aria the CLOY Olt.. ten root in the masala and saute untd you neve a not paste.

3

Mat stir .1 the macrame mutton so that n c comoidery

I song of fresh curry leaves

caend by the Ober trigredents in We pan. Add the Mute

200 pd7 ce Peeled potatoes, cut do

aatam masala. Tip tn the watered-down coconut mat

Stowed ores 2 dessenspoOns vOole saran masala

manmade and [Angie the 6.1. Simmer for abOot 20 nt mutes, Oro add the potato minks Ban t.eason wen

(•s war be about 6 or 7 cardamom

salt. From time to toe. as IN liquid to Me con reduces.

pods. V: onnamon snot 6 or 7

cadually and the remain', coconut Frail, um, you hare a

coves, and 2 ea 3 Gay leaves/ salt for the masala 1 teaspoon god. cumin 2 teaspoons pound eanarcer 2 teaspoons chili powder

17,0 win 1745, MOII /cc red rived•

136 Meat Dishes

non goal and Ite mutton and the Oat. are lender.

Lamb dhansak This ps a substantial dish, much favoured by the Parsis. who are great meat eaters. It is a one-pot dish, often served for Sunday family lunch. and is generally served with brown rice. lemon wedges and an onion, tomato and cucumber relish called Kachumber (see page 176). Although this is traditionally a Iamb or mutton dish, you could also use thicker. serves 4-6

1 Dram and rinse the lent and mong peas. Only

`CV g+1 lb 2 or vane leneqs. soaked

together the masala eareeents win a Rae rate to

overnight ILO W4 ce red lenhe, soaked overnight 100 g14 ex mung peas. soaked overnight el or ghee 2 red owes. In* sped l/s teaspoon ground tulmeno

mace a 51.07,1 paste,

2 Heat the et or ghee any fry the omen until they are golden brew. tiles sir In the maser, lee turmeric. wean., and curer and 551-fry gen/tykes:moot 5 minutes.

I teaspoon ground conande

3 Gee. a by neat nine Ile Iamb and cook gently Unal

I MASK.. V.., .'"1.'1 5n0gtl Ib 2 oz stewing iamb or mutton.

Ire meal is complete, coaled met the masa.. add any

cut mto cubm I autogsne. peeled and Opted

7500 07 PURIM, n. pee. and deed sae 500M1 lb 2 oa kesr senaon eaves, well

hied that has come horn Inn meat has been absorbed into ire masa.. RI this stage the dsh snub be stole Cry. 4 Now add the lentils and .4, 5. auPerve and pump., Stu in a Idle eater titan the Paw gravy and sea.,

the heat. covervintse.BrgoThMneduc

washed ansIckenned

and simmer gently until the meat rs cooked.

ter the masala 6-6 doves a ganc. weed 5 emr2 ricb niece OI poet Onger. WWI and trooped

5 Remo. the meat horn the pan and put bone seta. Puree the lends. mmMbea end glary in a I'm, proceS5Or ant 'eon the meal hon., mutt..

6-8 deed red ,holies

6 Oucknstr - try the stench In hot eland then sod Ilse

6 green cardamon pods

sprach to the arse.

5 orna ins, Pete of enammon Stek teasooan [eck peppercorns 1 .btespoce coriander seeds 1 tablespoon ea.,. seeds

OM. Cusses cer We me, At Me 74 You vuSS, 5omey.

133 Meat Ometes

▪

Lamb in fragrant brown gravy

Nalke ke keliyan

This delicious dish of Iamb simmered in a mildly spiced but fragrant brown gravy was prepared for me by my friend Sandhi., who is the executive chef of the charming Trident Hotel in Jaipur. In this masela the spices are whole, not ground. serves 4 500 ail Ib 2 at lamb or rnueon. cul mlo die - sited morsels

1 Coal thalami. vata hall a-imaging... and game pare, seasoued lo les1e Mk sae, streadiag a on mi. yomr rangers. Leave la marinate foe at least 1 hour.

00 8210oz mued smear and one puree (nee Page *4

2 Heat aume vol andlalne masela SUMS anei mey

43.

4.akk ,e Adi1 Me Owed onions and st.wiry win they are golden

1 500 te !melt Mue0 red arum

3 Pad Me rematter of lire ginger and gm. puree with

litruwebrunertanal cowers

Me ground sures. Season earn salt. Stir m the Iamb

101easpoon c.11i powder

metes and cook until the 41 starts. to seuaiele. Nay add

1 teaspoon ground emend.,

a Me ught and simmer Me lamb Lead a is lender.

150 m175 flru iornano tale 50.412 ri as cream Routed naked elmonts, to gamma (orabonan

4 Remote Vie lama Prom em gravy aria poi to one side, 1- 4.1.e gravy rota a rood procassix and puree n Sewn

Me vary. Men gem* reheat m in a tan Add the ternato for the maul.,

mate and sunnier ung you have a rich. Mirk saute

2 parks &mace

der a tae twat sit m the cream, and pop,. meal min ite ear, to warm lueugh In the grew. Gamslr

10 weer, 0areamon. gads back turuaruct , rads 10, notes 3 ray gave.

140 Meat Daher

Mr One almonds, smog, and serve.

Mutton

curry Laal mass

This is a very simple mutton. goat or lamb curry, which was originally prepared by the nomadic tribesmen when they made camp and was cooked gently over a wood fire. serves 4-6

1 thh together all Ihe manmade !wed IBM& AOC V.

1 51,12 t'+ georng mullet or het e. eel

lamb places and sir lo coat milt the marinade. Leave to

nto bole. rood morsels

mannate m the fudge to 2 nours.

vegeta Die el. 3,4 red 00, 009. finely chop:ea 1500 oz natural yoghurt

broom. then add all rho gararn masata mgreberqs and 000. oy for a

ssa

run seconds.

3 Remove the lamb than , the .r ■ atle ana add Ft to the

far the marinade 000.11 159 fif5 az gelher and cart, POSSE (5.08e 561

15305 0, red Chlal pasha Irdu can grand duel red 0-a00 whtt d bete 01 or mike a paste

2 Heal some oh and fry the onons unelthey are golden

oe.niar

end a bet, eel A03 g, I4 oh natural yognon

Per, of OmOPS- Saute gently too ltl- 12m,rte5.uncrTe

meal la vole doe aid the V has S400 ,0140 trim Ihe FROOL-

4 1 0S9rF, P

elate , 10 O. the grd ■ry sod ymmer genuy

sob y.ter 0,,e a or red sauce aro me lamb 5067.0 At ms stag, str it the Yoghurt, season with can and cor, her another 20r 3 minutes, mmng

for the garem mesale

5 Jot before serving,

2 or 3 tmec tat leaves

chopped conandec leaves.

stir in the ghee or butter and the

3 or 4 paces of drool mace 5 or 6 grew cardamon: pods 1 cinnamon suck. broken Into peces 4 or 5claves

foe fire garnish I heaped tablespoon ghee us butter heaped tablesX0e Chopped wander Isms

M0000 ArOtin01/6.n101,... MAP 1,..1"/ONOS/10.4.,

Meat panes

la3

Rogan josh Lamb or mutton Is simmered in a smooth grary that is enriched with

ground

dinlOnds.

Serves 4

to make the rosala, heal some 'Ladd the cardamom

Mgelabie oil . hi Prying

Pods and cloves arI4 Pry 4410 Toy crackle. Add the rest

SOO Witt, lb Iamb or main. cur nee

M the nasals togreltents and stittiry tor a minus or two.

bdetst.rect mules 1 cup roe.

sae -V2. 444,44410 puree

1 tablespoon ground almonds for the masala a 5 4,nole cardamon. pods 3 or 4 444. 05 4 tablesuoc44 prier and garlic puree <see page 561 1 teaspoon 41141. 2 tabesocom brawn coon paste Nee Ma SS) h tablespoon gar., maws (sae pagan!, for Ids punish croppea fresh 40o0nder leases a Noce of rent ginger, peeled and 441 into very 44n socks L,Imnnel a ha Wren ot saffron IttreaOs 5041.1m 3 tablespoons rosooatof

2 StEr In the ornO and 'no yoghurt. season van, nor am for 3 or 4 414.444.4 44 Mat Me mast is well cover. Aral the roseate and yotgbtArt. Add a hille violet and sinttnett gentry until the 1.1114.4mint lender.

3

Mm tn the tomato puree and continue rocking until

you nine induced the IrloW by awn one trwe • Sbr In The ground almonds. 4 Finall5c garotert with mopped cortandat teams and the gager Julienne, sprinkle Ole sanron and 'mosaic over Ow log antl serve.

Marinated baked rabbit

Khad khargosh

I cooked this excellent dish in an isolated Indian village 80 km150 miles -from Jaipur. Since simple Indian villages like the one I was visiting have no ovens, when they wish to bake or roast something they dig a small hole in the ground within the village compound and line it with dried cow dung, which whilst wet has been moulded into thick disks about 15 or 18 crn.16 or 7 inches in diameter and sun-dried. The cow dung is then ignited and once it is well alight. rather like charcoal, the rabbit is wrapped in many layers of banana leaves and covered with more cow dung disks If you have no garden or if you live in a flat and can't dig a hole in the lawn. or indeed if you don't own a cow, simply wrap the prepared rabbit In kitchen foil and bake it in the oven. serves 9-6 Wale raven tor themari node 25 2/1 az rnared wage.. arra ga rho puree lsee wee 56) 2 p. aches of germ rnasala /see Page 61, ol 3 o, 4 lanes

1 We a, e mar maie ■aareaants la a smooth pas. and dP17, 1, il ewnly all over the ralgat Leave to manna's for

4-6 bows In the ffiage 2 Saatr Ina rabbi wath the nuts and sultanas and sew up the cay.ry we, some teens [neck matins rabbi a well coated won marmede 00 all sties. Wrap d m a large pace Of kichen foll and bake In a rwaderalea hot .an 'for about an ',ow,

a am Ted all, powder salt

foe the stuffing Mo gra of cashew nuts. mushy craned

M.

Ina Ws ea sultanas

A -.ale chicken can be caked the way as well_

,

Vegetable Dishes It is true to say that over the years I have scoffed at and poked fun at vegetarians, quite unfairly, of course. But we all have

116

prejudices, however ill founded, and certainly as a man who likes his steak bloody and lamb pink, and can lima on marrow bones and pigs' trotters, a roasted pig's head. brains, rongue and all. and as one who is never happier than when offered a mountain of raspberries topped with crusty. thick, yellow clotted cream, I am hardly the one to embrace the vegetarian cause. But my visit to India has changed all that. Eating

tw

getarian food in India is a wonderful experience. ere arc hundreds and hundreds of different dishes using ry vegetable, puke and grain known to man, from baby

YYY

iuhergincs to lentils and sweetcom, from string lacuna ro potatoes, marrows, courgerres, pumpkins, onions and beermor, subtly and Eavoursornely prepared. Indeed for a whale onth on one of my trips to India I ate nothing but exquisite

i%egerablc dishes. Didn't stop me from still enjoying my wine, course. Anyway, the recipes that follow are a few of my

pe rsonal favourites.

151

Okra sautéed with coconut

Vendakat porya l

This is a really refreshing way to enjoy okra (ladies' fingers) - they 'Mil I not be glutenous because they are cooked so quickly. somas 4 SOD oil lb2 oz okra. stems weaved coCgrtul od

2reasoroos book mustard seeds a handlui of Sag, cony Wares 2.5 crorl inch niece of ram veer,

peeled ant cut into thin mugs salt

la tin masala 2 cups Vdte0 hash coconut 5 or 6 fresh green chlIlles I heaped teaspoon Comm seeds 3 or 4 caves of garlic. Peeled

la the garnish fiandful of flesh cum .mms cmanut dl

o Blend the ruses ngred.ents to a paste Cut the okra into setae roundels

2 In a oan, heat some cacao,' al and fry the mustard seeds and curry leaves WY they crackle. then add me anger and doick.ly stir-fry. 3 Add a Ube roDge ad lothe pan and when st g PM. add he okra aml stlt.fry unto al Oenle. SW in the rnaSala

cash and saute air about 4 minutes. until all the mttes of okra are coaled with lilt fIld54 ,13 The don skin. toe sIghey crunchy. Check fa se..yrrng and add some sag , necessary

4 To make the gernsh. pug.* Ar-try Ing Curry Oamn . some hOICOconot ml m a seParale van. Scatter awn, userthokandSv,

l am a confirmed beetroot eater, whether it is roasted or pickled in vinegar, and I was delighted to discover this crunchy, spicy. tangy dish in Madras. Serve it either es a starter or as en aCCOrepantreert serves 4-6

1 Peel the ccew bee.. and enw.nip smal , cubes

about SOD gil% lb fresh beeno5 toiled In her Wu in salted water and left to cod 100 1004 II or coconut or ye:amble oil [coconut for pet erence/

2 Heat the ot ado tee rods., secrets and Iry until they crackle. Ott m the sheikn or on

and the green

cn.11es and sao* for 2 or 3 mown_ 3 Add the grated moon...Trani sor.fry until il is slightly

I Reaped lablespoon black mustard seeds

brown and toslee. Stir 1r5 the beetroot and rnir well

150-05 oz red shallots or red onions.

with the other inaredents, season onth salt and POPP. ,

finery chopped E. of 8Oest, veto

58,9.

finely CRO pee

[Ike 'roe seeds woo leave, the holler Ire 0.. 0 15 05 to void ISO

grate0 rreorr coconut

stn Ork, Perrot,

vegetable DO,* 153

,^^ c>,

Spicy vegetable curry

kilei

For this spicy vegetable curry, cooked with fruit and coconut. you need a good selection or interesting vegetables, such as the ones suggested below. ler., •

1 an nd he neap invedenN to a pasta, ad,Ing a Idle

fee the vegetables and fruit 071 ingrede,ta are approx.ate and you can u. any vegetables and Sur you

new ilriece55Oer 2 Pur all the vegetael..00 Imil Into a large pan and act Net enaugr.... to 00050 y...0 tO1 Mon Stir in

00¢ ho a. Awn shop. bu about

the lurrneric, season wan sarr. glen ual a.

100 bra cz of earn 01 the ,aucnvIng.

cook aria the vegetables are relents Organ off the

Cut in,. hick ,Aenno stn.. would be

turrnano.flavoured xeter end keep it 3aandy in a jug.

g'eatl yam

3 SII,c mesa's ,otollne vegetatlas and add 54%1.1 turroencAlawurecl water to lam a -LINO, grey. Conhnue

wren bananas

crenkng unlit ire gravy ,les 12.0,1e cleanly and agcy.

green burs while purrtotin 1 :arge Nape mango

4 PI the last u.ornol. quickly shr-fry me curry leaves some very h ■Dt cuco,v1o, amt then woOle t1,m over

3 dessertspoons ground turmeric

the vegetables_

sad her the masal. 2 cups grated fresh cocvlut for you

.40 use dr./ 5

or6Fero green Oullks

Itede.M. Cy... seeds 6. 8 ye., small red shadsts. reigt-4 d, 000.1 6 fresh curry waves fee the garnish a handful of small leash curry leaves coconut

nil

Cukere nye". ve...0m,

Vegetable. 01511.

155

Kathirikai kara kulambu

Sweet and sour aubergines

This is a stunning dish of Creamy baby aubergines cooked in a rich. spicy tomato and onion gravy. Try and use aubergines that are all the same size. serves 4

Heal some o I and sante Ihe anions unt, they are

•egetaOle or opcor 61

completely sulk Add Me tomatoes and canknue

3 red DI ors. liners sl,ed

cabana ant, you have a rocs, rch c. ,en aria tomato

4 tomatoes. coarsely c ooper

gra,. You can odd a Inge wale, Out be sure la cook

15-20 trash curry leek. 500g/1 lb 2 az Copy sate•goes stalks tern.nd and m halt lengthways 200 g/7 oz grated fresh coconut 2 tablespoons eh, wader 2 tablesooms ground Canard& 2 teaspoons ar Duna turmeric

until ins eater evacOrates leaving a Inns. red gram. Stir .1 the Cuny leavek. 2 mire the tomato wary Is thYokennna stvalleawfry Me

aubergines ir some el Ina se0i.a. Pan until tn."

are

hilt-CON., then out to are side

3 Need the cc:C.4410 a paste in a fad peaces.,

2C0 go7 az [Mond Quite (See Me 67) salt

adding a At. user A necessary. Mu tort. , the

chopped (rash coronder leaves. to

and sin into the lomat° and orlon gravy. Season ruth sat

gamut,

mole. sixes. Me tamaond and the coconut poste

4 Cook tor 2 or 3 ovnutes. mount well. Oleo add tie pancaked aubergnes and smeller gently fat about nunuln. Garnish wan the Cfkalkeed freak aanande, Pawsendae

156 VegetalsSe Dishes

Yam fry

Arbi pakode

Thin shavings of slightly sweet, parboiled yam are given a spicy coating and then shallow-fried until crispy. Tina st 'hi 2 ex erci. peeler set 10 Mayes el garlic, peeled I tablespoon tennet seeds I rat...onlyl round ha mem 2 tablespoons red ems. ponder , reigetatte or coconut of

wedges of Ilene or lemon, In se,

I Cut the yam into reclaniSes snout 4 ern,I1/2.n,nes by ?.5 C.1 inch and about ti rnrn/1/2 inch On., and coca ri

PO.tele sailed water until they are al den.

2

Pu/te the gar,¢ and the fennel seeds m e piano,

men are the turmetic end one powder and a drop 0 water to Make a thick paste. Season enth a lithe san

3 Drain the yarn paces and pal dry, than coat them on b0n sides with the paste. Heat some ml and shallow-fry tne pieces on hot vies uold dre paste h dnioy but not burnt. Serve war wedges.' trme n lemon

Vegetable Dimes 157

Runner or green beans foogath This is simple. quick Indian cooking at its best - a tasty dish that enables you to enjoy spicy. crunchy green beans that have not had the goodness boiled out of there in gallons of salted water. It should be awarded two yurn yowler as 4

1 heat some Odin a pan. 800 the cumin seeds and Cod ,

vegetable or canon,. 20 pi, et corn, seeds 300 W11. Oa new ontaleet. scrubbed and Owed into 12 minV1/2 one cutnos linaximan) red onions, finely chopped 1 kg/VA IP french beans. topped ace faired co. if you are lucky enough to

untilheycrak, 2 Add the WM cubes ard °mansend stir-fry until tray are slightly coleuring, her add Just a tin drop of earn all cook unni the Nate nas evapemted and the paLaloeS we Melva 3 Eta m the chopped bean without adding any mere wale, then stir In the cheeped dried chillies and season

get them. fresh runner beans,

me, sat and pepper. Cook win tne beers are fencer.

otnnged. Wooed and tided and chopped into pieces about 12 mini

valh the grated fresh coconut.

Vo inCh long Irnaiomurn/

6 dried re, chirps, coarsely chopped sea 1 least:con freshly gratin0 aback pepper 2 cups grated foe. coconut Idled coconut will not do in finis inHance)

158 Vegelebte nefln

Orme/ all tne Male no on to a serving dosn and son.re

Spicy green tomatoes serves 4

1 Mix togehner all the rnssele ■ ngredlents will a Ale

,egete.b.e ail

water fa Forma very dry paste.

.1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds 1/2 teaspoon Fenugreek seeds 300ga I h 2 ox brn, green tomatoes, cut irdo owlets 2 or 3 het, green

coarsely

chopped

2 Heal Ilse oil and fry the cumin and fenugreek... until they Crackle. Shr or He rnasala and cook for 2 oe 3 moo es, Illen Ilse ad es Season. to L1510 501 11 SR MIR well together and Cook gently untgl the lomat. start to soften.

salt

fo

the masers

1 teespohn red chi!. Lowder 2 te35M9n5 wound conehdoe feaspxh ground turmeric 1 heaped teaspoon garI.0 pLI ,fLe 1110 93ge 561 1 loascohh swear

Vegetenle 05510 159

Stir-fried mustard greens and spinach Although mustard greens are quite bitter, they are Ilse that rare British delicacy purple sprouting broccoli. very tasty and very nutritious. You could, in fact, substitute young purple sprouting for mustard greens it you can get it. serves 6

I Heatthegree al a ea , u,a91...11 Pee and saotelhe Wee, Sea rnOnlent or i66. Ado we

150 FA,5 oz ghee

green chubs and

6 km, chilies. Put on half lengloaays and de-AKIO

mustard omens. spears bares and the chlIJ

5 un12 inch vece of rom Jorge, peeied and very hnely chopped I .1121/4 ld rhystard peens, soil's

wooded and coarsely clropoe, 530 oil JO 2 o2 spinach leaves. MaINS (washed and drama,.

2 Fry. soup en the OH, anal the vegetables are looked and then release ere, floods. et the stage add the cornflour mum; a en rooroughly Seas. to taste WI salt. mix* braver*. la urea I cod =peso. and make ,a,ti coarse purge 3 Serve with a 11.13 al ohm memo over are greens.

and Cramer chopped I tedspeon roe chi. wader I tablespoon.. nu,

Nola

sag

rtI n nol onhrytery Is puree . wege.les a you

ghee, to sere

prOlel a whole leaf snare.

Stuffed potatoes in a mint gravy

Dum aim chutney wala

Hth looted fillet potatoes are filled with a in I Krtire at college Cheese. cashew nuts and raisins bethre being heated ifl a Spicy gravy. Serves 6

1 cc ine pewees nip cifirreen ektil 0 cina Frches

I 5 43 IS 5 or bodices. Ceded

high ley 4 cell', inches fade. lehtn en ewes err.

ot ref deep-frying end shathehthe

remit. One centre Of One potato so you effeceren Wan

son nth Mane,

WI^ rube to Imes eke a eery later urese 0 ' , Sc.. ,

for the red onion paste 500 fril In 2 or peeled red orris 1000 or unroosiec cashew hots 25 WI as Fresh green chillies for the !Blot and coriander pact. 100 ea or Fresh smut leave. :00

os Fresh coriander Banes

for the Opt acrd garlic paste 50 02 or peeked gang 50 gS 00 melee emir ter the stuffing 250 ire or reed veneer lade page 1131 BO Ole co fried cashew nuts 80 e/3 vz seise,

. under fres, water. drain and oel Ore limethorughly Heat the nil tor oaeoftryine. add the Potreo... VS out. mooed. Stung, tie cdincien. Cud are Vol to one sde exerts.. 2 To rake the red throe paste. bee the omen and rashes null unh the oniony are COChel threln, edd the chine s

glut to make a oiler 0F puke

3 To make Me runt and coriander Paste Meng the Wu. tort. 0 0 10 Smooth Nene the tenger and who together for the 200 paste. Ms together all of tee stuffing ingredients.

4 Heat some at and coos the ginger end gams pare unit guidon then odd the other - the padth and season vat sal and pepper C Mersey is too Such add a °thew* ,

bog price oi wire Miller

5 rue the Cask. Ate the cheese rnusure.theh modem

be on at See

in the grew and retreat the they ere nand's, thfthgh

be OinCn Fel ground limn

Oconee Pan, eieder ker, Poon,eiwnem uerer

Vegetehie Dinh. 161

Potato and tomato bhaji This is another popular street snack, eaten at all times of the day. On the street stalls they cook this on a large round plancha. and you Can hear the click. click. click as they chop and scrape the sizzling ingredients into a smooth red puree rather like the tomato topping of a pizza, but for practical purposes you can use a wok or a frying pan. P is usually served with thin slices of raw red onion, a wedge of lemon and a little rectangular Indian cottage loaf. There are many versions of the recipe; the principle, however, is the same. Here is my version. sena, 6 700 g,'1 lb 9 or Lata.s- peeled and cot into cubes vegetable on 1 tablespoon mustard seeds fresh curry leaves fro, rep ohillIra finely chopped

the ootatoes m nod ng water until tent. Inen

c am amy mash until 2.3111.

2 neat a time oil in the pan one cola the witiviarri merle mil they crackle. Stir la The curry leave, ch,Ines and

onion_ Add some ghee awl rook unfit the men is son_

3 $la in the tomatoes. mashed potato and tumnenc

I ,a,ge rh Pm, IT* diced

Sea,. to taste arm .11 and cook gently sterng all the

knee

brte w4h a spoon of loft. until Igemews ¢ reclucea to

bat al lb 2 ot very nPe tomato.. finely

01 , 4m wee. for m the chapped coriander end spewed

chubce0 a pinch of g.../ turmeric

sap a ■-■ andlul of oriented Iron bur ender ;eaves 1 leaspoc, pram maseta (sea page 61)

to se re ion a libel red onion nags le.nlvCe ehee

lanwon Prbroa....mru v.a tveoewrmraro r d parta Ealk rodge 16,1.

162 venerator Deter

on rbe gram rr,asam.

4 0arn,11 with red omort rings and lemon juice. At the last nano.. put a knob or ghee on each portion. Serve va,th Wad.

Deep-fried banana and potato balls This is typical of the kind of snacks sold in the 0 .4116 throughOut India. Miles about 30

1 cool the potatoes in bo,l, ng water um.] tender Dram.

4001114 oz potatoes. Peeled and col into

then transfer to e toad processor or dander and process

chunks 20097 unnpe green tananas, steam. io thee slmns unt. ■ soft 2 green chillea deseeeed and anal" chopped 2 tablespoons chopped Ores , coriander leaves Z 5 owl ■ 1105 nape of ginger. peeled and very 0nely chopped I teaspoon await marsh (see OP 611 I teaspoon round coriander

a soot mon I heaped tablespoon Cornflour 1% pro oz rep/ gun r.co 111002145 or wermicel.. trOten into brry pteces al for deeodroog

160 Yegrade rkshes

10 a ovee. 2 Peet the bananas and puree the flesh. HO it thcroughty Won Pt palate puree 3 60 rn all the other mgred,ents except the rice noodles or vermicellt and 1. ea Form the mdture into Pte.Sized bails and roll them gently in the noodle or verfrucer paces until they mecomed and look lire tittle 1 edge.g.

4 Fleet the oil lot deep-frying, add gm banana and potato balls in balCheS and lry unlit golden brown and loopy to the outside. Drain and Serve*. Itachunter (see page 1761.

Green pea curry

Hari matar masala

A great way to use fresh garden peas, which are always a little hard. You can. of course, use frozen peas. It is a very simple dish, quick to eixik and greet to eat. serves 3-4

1 Genet logethee the mese. Ingredients vat, enough al

vegetable or or ghee

to make a smooth mate.

2 red omens..., fleaeJ el-aPPed 3 or 4 npe tameless, finely chopped 2505,9 as steed. fresh green peas salt I teaspoon pram mesa, ;see page 611 for the Iwasaki

qar5 f,511 green e.h.ltie, 2 ymel coon note of not Weer.

2 Heel some al or Val and sentA the onions until en, are completery soft. Stir in the tomatoes and ewe.a eoatong urge you ban a uc , tomato and amore sant,

3 Stir in tee naiad entl trek fora runner 2 or 3 m.netes. Odd me peas, season wren calm and cool, until

moo peas one ell der 4 Sprinkle the pram masala over the peas and mere.

Peeled

3 or 4
vegetane [Ashes 165

Deep-fried vegetables

Pakora

You can use any vegetables of your choice for this dish. They are deep-hied in a chilli-flavoured chickpea batter. d selection of vegeta des. such es terriers uttergnes, onions,

1 Where a poropiele. peel and wash The vegetables anti ben out them into Min slices arid. it you feel like

ool■ litettee peppers and ,ushr,,,rns regetaNe al for fr ,,,g

at

toe the batter (enough for 450 g/

water to ',vie a Mick baiter

1 lb vegetable.) 2 cuos gram fio,(chiCkpea flour) 1 leaSpoon Chilli rte der 1 WSW , ,alt leaSPOOn incorporate ar soda

166 Vegetate Nstes

shapes.

2 Mn loge*r the ogler ingrechents, adoring enough

3 Heal some oil.

va, can test rt

■ s the NM temperature

by throwing in a cube of bread, it it rises to the top bubbling The temperature is correct_ 4 simply do the vegetables •nto the MO batter, pop tr,ern

ifie,rvea■ N'*'!

9

r'

•

Spicy vegetable stir-fry

Subz khada masala

This is a simple stir-fry of fresh vegetables cooked with whole sprees and coated in a spicy tomato gravy. serves 9-6

1 Gut the Fed miens. carrels. red or peen pepper,

150 W5 02 red anions

caulftwer toots and tomatoes to Me same we. abed

100 gP1 co carrots

10 remit in,n cubes ar pieces, Ire beans snood be

100 W4 .0 red or green pepper

00.1,6 rOrnAla :non tong.

1004/4 of ...ea motets

100 gra az tornatoeS 100 gMS az green beans

2 Heat 'neg., at the manes and be conander and cornet seeds and Iry Intl me seeds crackle

100 gia cm green pis

3 Sherry the vegetables adding mem to tee pan In the

150[0 ebee 20 efY, . emote tea chews. POMO,'

eaulleceeel. M-rata. beans and Men peas

0nOPPed Me: oz colander seeds. crushed 15 gik oz cumin seeds 2 teaspoons red 11,11. powder 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1 teaspoon garam rresela fsee Page 611 206 g/7 oz tomato puree

folloaring order arsons, cad.. rea Of green pepper

4510 on Ma red mill, ponder. Found turmeric and pram masa, then add the tomato purée Season with sat( 0,1 pepper and cont.. ..long until the vege1elnle Ore,. Om well ue.aled with the wavy and ether ar dertle 1.1Iy tender.

5 Serve sphrnted erte enapped cewaneer leaves

sett and pepper chopped fresh 0, 30000 Maws. to garnish

VegetabieD9,85 167

Spicy sweetcorn

Makai tamatar nu shak

In some parts of India corn forms a part of the staple duet It is often dried for use in the winter because it is nutritious and filling. You don't have to go through the business of soaking dried corn - this dish works perfectly well with frozen kernels. Fresh or frozen sweetcorn will be lighter and more crunchy; the dried corn version will resemble lentils or pease pudding. 1 Heal the oil Ina pen. add the mostard seeds and fn,

Serve, 4 rage ote dl

sane Meg .ec.e.

S'2 teaspoon mustn't, set.

2 Acla no chaos and saole for a couple of morners.

30.4 cnti hes. SO. lengthways ggp gl le 202 Darriatces. 'Indy cheeped Salt V2 teaspoon groan] cumin

Men add Me chopped common Season enn salt are cad, Over a low neat unni you have almost a COarSe tonal, Park-

Vx teaspoon ground [mien] en

a at in tee poodered spew. cco , to 2 or 3 mmulos

Vx teaspoon ground turmerk

then add the sweacan ( ■ , lt Mks a tele pry. sod a

VneaspoOn eniui von*,

Wash of warier). COOk notionsneektan cremes

400 g14 olaweettOrn ker :. a handful al C hoOPed kern cohanns, haves, ro ion All

Masala omelette

6 Sarin. an Me ONO., conander leaves and serve. Nroner Saw" 0000 ro, a no elm. ar

Masala anda

Use a small non-stick omelette pan for this spicy omelette. per person 2 rgrge rely eggs salt and pepper vegetat. or I teaspoon (-cooped green I teaspoon -kney ckODOeo ',Orman I teaspoon finely cnopped orlon I teas.. cOopoect hes, conancle ,

1 Tnuougnly vonisk the eggs and season wen s01 arn DePPer2 Heat a I. al in the omelette pan are paddy stkArt Me chi., menet Onko and coner•Oe , Then POm the peeler, egg evenly over tee Pao one non omelette Is set. Using a spatula, fold the omelette to make a hall-mon shape and serve al once_

Vegatalge pates 169

Chutneys, Pickles and Relishes

Chutneys, Pickles and Relishes These are an indispensable element as the Indian table, and there are literally hundreds of different recipes, from a simple coarse pur& of apple, mint and coriander to mind-blowingly

hot chilli pickles that have been left to cook in glass jars under the baking sun Although, certainly in the UK, you can buy some jolly good Indian condiments, here I have included just a few simple ones which will give you an authentic taste of Indian food,

172

Kothmir chutney This simple sweet and sour chutney will add some zip to any dish. It will keep in the fridge for a day or so. I Urge loaner of fresh cotpnder leaves MP stalks) 5 or 6 fresh green chokes

Very simply. whack everything except the sugar and salt lone a f00.1 processer and blend to a smcoth paste. Add sugar and salt *taste.

2.5 erMI etch piece of root ginger_ peeled and chopped 5 or 6 tablespoons grated fresh coconut

kiteas000n canon seedS 3 or 4 cloves of park. peeled a dash of lamer. Wee tsee page 571 I teaspoon pomade/ seeds

tin

sugar

It you nere no torretmd puree. a Posh of vinegar Sir

sort

lust about do tnsteml.

Mint and coriander chutney Simple 10 make. Bps 6 just cubes ot peeled apple and handfuls 01 flesh mint and cocander ...es. pureed. And Please Ore, ask me how many apples, hen much melt and colanderuntil n pleased yOu

Raita sate can lake many form_ It 6 laas4aity natural yoghurt rooted with any of the follovang chapped mint deed tomato. Inn tenement chopped clothes, diced hug such as pheapple chopped spring crisis - indeed anytholg Mal you lar4Y, coded. corkee beetroot tendert.

Crpineys atte Paktes 173

Coconut chutney This is a superb, refreshing yet tangy chutney to accompany spiced dishes, 3 cad I.teespoons Vstelenth

1 Gently toast the white tents on o Ors Fang pan armour

2 cups grated IRS. coconut 14 you are

Cureng them

Wed t0 use Oned. soak a hest for an son io a Sale canned coconut age) 6 or 7 whole green scales all bunch of hest coriander teams 25 owl inch piece of anal peeled and finery chopped

2 Blend late fresh coconut lends. green chiles_ yendet leaves and not enger in a food processor with enough cxonut milk or eater to melee a one paste . TV , . a serving 11111 and then ma in the remaining

ingredents.

coconut rode or haler 1 tablespoon coconut oil 1 teaspoon small black mustard seeds 2 fresh tad collies , Enety chopped
Instant cucumber pickle This spicy pickle can be eaten the day after it is made. 200-300

o,cornte ,

wonegtass of white was vinegar a dash of water to temper to your task the strength of the nnegar salt to taste 2.5 cell arch piece of reel ginger. peeled and out into very. very 11. dice 4 at 5 midi Ire:b green chilies. comely chopped

Penh peel ate CLICurn. , en10.0,5. men cut d in ha 1 lengthways remove the seeds and out ngo 25 I ,ret batons

2

Bring the vnegar, water and eel to the teal, add the

ginger Aisle

molt:okra,

3

Cool as outokly as possible, then pop .1 .nto a clean tar

who Ilse green cb.lites and refugee._ It .11 he ready for lonyyrow milt's dinner .

174 Chutneys and Pickles

elan Adel tee CuCtiniSee and

cook rata minute or two until the cueunter 5 d, dente.

Tomato and chilli relish This fresh relish is absolutely excellent eaten with fried poppadoms, 4 tomatoes

Fin., chop the tornemeS. ormos. Metes and coronae ,

2 some red snorts

wares

4 fresh green chaos

lemon juice and salt lo mete.

Mem opines and mason roll the hem of

small Ounce Of One [dander leaves Inc sisals) pose of 2 5Mes 0 , 1 lemon salt

Chutneys sod Psalm 175

Tomato and chilli relish This fresh relish is absolutely excellent eaten with tried poppadoms. 4 tomatoes 2 small red onions 4 fresh green shares

ilneh chef their...toes. °moos. chillies and coriander Mir. P.m loges., and season wrtit their". or lernpn juice and .4 to teals

small launch of rmsh coriander ...sine sulks) Jose of 2 liroes or 1 lemon salt

Chutneys and nolrles 175

Pineapple cheat Pineapple chart has a curious, but very pleasant, sweet and sour flavour. It can be eaten as a refreshing side dish during the course of a spicy Indian meal. ten' tablesppons mrnamd ourrie (see page 571 Pineapple. peeled and EA into small

POO lust enough tamarind puree over da pineapple cu. to Itehtly coat them. Nan Ihe COnander bares and seascP to taste mth lab. Sena EhOled.

cubes a small handful of chow. Nab cwrander leaves (no Pal.) salt

Kachumber This is a fresh relish so eat it on the day that you make it. I red onan, finely dud

Ma everythn logelner except the lemon or Ime gam

2 large Up-haloes. blanched. sem..

Just Wore sennng. Or Jr, are lernon or here lure.

deseeded and finely oral an., 10 eras mch pace of cucumber. PaMy peeled. seeds removed and rnely diced a small handful of chopped trash calendar leaves I or 2 green chlrlin. deseeped and finely chapped a per, or red chid. POwcre. Pan to Mate lu ■Pe or 2 or 31ernoce or Imes

1715 Chulneys and Pickles

Omailercm mo le Loftin AK, ono prwookt 8,171..end or remaera.m.Ai an. an MO VI., rodot t m

= •• -

71

r. :11100

Mango and chilli chutney This fruity chutney can be kept in the fridge tar several days and. indeed, will improve with keeping. 6 small red shaltota finely chopped

1 Sa6C the shoots in same pi tort.1 they are soft and

vegembieur coconut dl

translucent and eerie gakien

10 deed or tresh red chilleS. Chopped 2 semi-npe .napes, pealed and coarsely MOW,

2 Stir in the collies are continue cook,' until,' are soft and well muted rein me shakts.

5 crrY7 inch pace of met ginger. peed ana very finely chaOned

3 S-7, .1180 chcPPad mango and gnger and season to taste Oh sugar and salt, nen simmer until Vol have

sogar sal

a 6olcal chutney consistency. Ai./ the ctiutneyta nod

178 Csienessano Fleets

entities refrigerate.

Sweet mango pickle 5C0 WI lb 2 az uniibre mangoes. peeled

1 loth logelner all the mgreckenls exceo de coconut oil

and col .Me smau ginger-stied peces

a,1 ...lard seeds. Pack belly into a screw.to p jar and

5C0 h 2 to Pee car ,OSLsik, ContilS I taniespoon led emir ...wee atout 'ix teaspoon sal, tshesp000 lennei seeds I shallow t.spoon feougeeK seeds 2 pinches olasgoehda fey preserving a smell amount et coaxal oil hasp :on small Mack mashed seeds

snug securely.

2 Piece tne

lar in a , PI9,00i lxv•f Cued min

water and

cook wily in the Non 'ter abeol. l he., Or "line wow hang nao taReo on a pck. consistent, AiSEVIlatillely. stand the tan en a th net in r Itt.ry-b3SKI EaUCepen el WSW on lop al the stove and simmer gently .

3 Allow Is cool, then coder the lop al the chuhrey nilh he PI and sprinkle the rushed seeds on the to. Re-seal and keep in a cod phce lor 2-3 weeks before mos.

Chuteys ono Pickles 179

Sweets and Drinks

S c a nned&Conv er t edt oPDFbyF F Cc ot t a ge

Indian cottage cheese

Parleer

If you are going to the trouble of malting this cheese, it might be a good idea also to make my favourite Indian pudding. Galati jamen, because one of the important ingredients for this dessert in a quarter of a cup of the Curds (chhenat before they are pressed Into cheese. So, I might as well give you the recipe ton this pudding here and now - Bee page 1134. Slams/Ski pmts lull cream milk

I Put ale milk Ina saucepan ana hear a. Joe berme it

shout 90 mn1/211 es lemon luice or

ho'lls, add the lemon Juice or vinegar which coil curdle

vinegar

the milk as it comes to the bail. 2 Once the rralk has curdled. tarn 011 the beat place muAin eleth over a 5v0able.s.xed WSW, and *am the

curds and whey Ihrovgh tyre muslin _

3 Once ire ands are 1044 drained. squeare them mm a hall in the mutlm and place mem under a ilea, wegm. for 2 or 3 ne.rs to tarn It icon a hfock that can then he cut into cubes.

hidian coconut fudge

Nadal bad

I suggest you buy dry C000nut, add a little milk and process A in the blender to achieve the pureed coconut for this recipe. makes about 30 pieces 60 giSy as sugar 30 rnIrganeroes 3 ft a: wager 607 WI lb 6 az ourgea coconut

liana.on ground cinnamon a good pinch or ...then threads a dash el ruseeeter I heated tablespxm finery chopped

I nail the sugar are ware. unol you have a thick syrup. 2 earl on the other ingredients except the silver teal and rns,

3 Poor the mixture on Loa greased baking tray and lay the sihrer Leaf over Ihetop ptlmy to 5e1.

4 Once ■ 1

Ls firm. cut the tvdae into bile-s ,zed PUCE',

pstactuo nub a couple of sneers of indan silver leaf, to &came

Saects SKI CHM,5 183

Gulab jaman This is a pretty painstaking pudding but well worth the effort. I suggest you do the boring bit - reducing the rnilk - the day before. 1 strerler pints full cream mils.

1 lehog the mile to the to:erxer the Seat are SMIrret

Ye top of fish curds (see Pante,

until the milk has reduced by Mall Now. Awing eI the

page lag)

time and soraong the thickener milk Porn the side of Me

3 tabrespcons noire

Can. (et it reduce and reduce For about an hour nor you

a tenth Cl bicarbonate ca soda

have a paste,ke constsrePpy. At mis siege you can

4 cups wear

rerngerale 4 tang mowed

5 or 6 crushed green cardamon( pods 2 teaspoons weeper threw. 2 drops mum.* ghee for deop.frog

2 Mu the cords and the Chickened milk together. Sir the hour and nicarnonate or soda and then knead g as together unto you have a sott dough. Rob prates of the dough info smell bees then fallen them into Our or ova, 3 Boa the sugar in 2 cops of wale( Lora Hoe have a POW brew, corro and col to one scke 4 Clash die wees horn the tardamern pods wrth the ratter and make a coarse paste with the rowel., Pvta aired or this Mel into the centre er each disc and mil thorn Sack into bags 5 Heat auto

ghee di a can and deepa-hy the bans

Pap the balls

Pre syrup area male to rhannate In

the MCA to 1-2 hours.ar ail day dm( Ste To save simply reheat them in ter syrup ci the mit...re Cr In a ea u cepa.

ekv■ers at re e C

sneee Waxy r Carr.

Oppasee LetbDor,rvr. aria crn,A.

S c a nned&Conv er t edt oPDFbyF F Cc ot t a ge

Kulfi This is a wonderfully sweet, rich, creamy sort of ice cream. SM. 4

I lird1+: ptins lull cream ma

Mg*. whilesugai a good pnch of serer ' ,ire., 2 Wasp., ,Narched mstachx. nubs. chopped

1 Bo .I the mill, and sugge.n a he4,7-tared pan until reduced ..1rds and th,c, and creamy.

2 Turn Of the heat Addthe seron. vstacho mt. and card..., Ws and lune to cool. 3 Once Me nurture tsar:h pour rt into 4 su.table

2 .3 green cardamon, pods, coarsely

awes. carer erin cfing "sap and freeze 0.11.01

crushed

SNRAITANAA \e .FAST FOODS, FRESH JU!C

ll SARIWANAA ICE CREAM. ADAI AVIAL VEG.-CUTLET BREAD CISTL,ET SSCIF -1 ED RAZNYI

Fire and ice This splendidly refreshing drink was made fix me by Pritam. the excellent bartender of the Trident Hotel in ildaipur. serves 1

In o svirable Bass, oot 11., green chili. mint. lime Juice.

I teaspuen very. seg.* clsePPed

sLigar

Weer, mini I teaspoon reg very troy mapper

shce_ oerm iws .

up and ice. Top up .IM1 eye pineapple pue and

wnl.Sone garnrsneewnla nuns not era a lase

fresh mini I tablespoon flPSIS Yule jace 2 teaspoons sugar syrup [see rage 189 1 I tablespoon or so crushee se 2[0.1 it pie fresh pineapple,.

Note could, of peer...reduce Ne quantity or !re.

for the garnish

pineapple juice end wbrtitle the difference wigs

I firth ....Areal

vodka. Di to hell wile it Why substitute Hoe

I 1...e sere

p.aavvle juke! Jost sleca in the ma,

Sweets and Dunks 107

Lassis

Yoghurt drinks

[anis are refreshing. sweet or savoury. creamy drinks made from natural yoghurt.

Sweet lassi

Salt lassi

serves 4

Mei■ e as for sweet lassi, hut Instead of sugar

1 lir-rel .-Y. pints rat,a1 yoghurt

scup, add 2 teaspoons of set and omit the

100 rr,14 n no sugar syrup (see below)

pomegranate seeds.

6 toe cubes same pomegranate..

Fruit lassi

To make weer lass, mix the yoghurt sugar synod

Toren any VA IRA of your cnoce, such as

and ice cubes in a blender unlit you have a

raspberries. strawbernes mangoes. aromas or

Wog,, creamy mature. Tip t into Dosses.. .0

bona.. to make about 250 mita t oz of eurve.

Ott the oomegra.e seeds .

am me aurae 10 150 ml,20 a m yolOadand Ion n-11 Il or sugar Wee end bend.

Lass! masala

tele. +am some ce

Crush together equal qua ntites bf cocander

en of anger

peppercorns and cardamom seeds. enough to

ie make SW,. syrup, put 50

give you a heaped tabes000rdul when they are

[granulated of caster) m a saucepan wile 300 mIr

crushed. Blond the yoghuM1 as In Sleet lass!

10 ft co water. Piece over a moderate heal amd

fatow]...th 2 teaspoons salt ant a charter of the

stir until the sugar ....I.- 8nng

the

(-WOW sixes, fie into glasses cad gernrah each

bail and simmer for 3 cr 4 ',Amos, than rem,te

atass wtr, the remainder ol the crush. sores

from theft Leave to cool, the symOcao be

dead Seme Chopped fresh conaneer waves.

stored a the beige In Several wee..

Sweets., Dings 189

Index 411726 curry 31.8377 7/6858.1 9711.720711 177 173 956.1. Mint 6 477 86* OW,. R. /31.687.1178 157 7774.818.6 0788386/75648871 , 742e1 156 a. E..n8 977836.1 IN.& 66.7758 6823681 156 134E21876. 155 1767115587 ER6646 E378 158 #4tEer s 32E7.6 ycone =sole Lena. Peeves 791.94.994 .4 116. 117 577687678171478 17.8.21 Ew77, 125 77.778671 87767717. woos 6 E,326748.

1,i. 1.1 52871 88.8176 77767.4773 155 ns see .64 teens 183122 Be. oennw. Is. 131 526747.6 771617. 135. 115 ten., 877870 8373 67781117 152. 138 bleE 08427 91Ern6E 152 1E3 7,48.12378 1,5.70, 71 58.8567711883412.427 0E76 18Man 7 73.71.11/77.71. E2132 #7, 713 6767.3,15 1787.017 563741 866716787.817/17 7686771 887612/1 144 Own al. 363 552

67/77661571767 768187.1621 AZ 25 817688881/ 8.76778192 ian.7188768 102 71 81727 30.6E6 713.787 7:66711 c17778 55 55 7495 Om, me. 764 125.127 17 7888616 125. 121 ,9949. 61E489 571.7 172 141711886168.4171 IX 121 1.4.21.7.11W 174 45.7714123 1.27771E4r72667,6kle 174 186177278,78,71.165 111 17.8.77881178 773 ,84288678718288:4168761 Memo 477842 173 128 114 WI./ allYcnuiney SI. In, 178 868 Mr 129 1 77 0861937 7217867/18761186125 1201616 t477.173 Green Ea Neil 81676/ Irma 41115 518e61748168 179 177 MO 1699 4.984892787178,7 Pa. 81.173. 173 97 ,, 7491143 57,768 mange 660 179 ,,994 799.637 9149 175 0, 8 17, 77716g.6‘77, 1871 7155 min72 18 67125 2704 12. 12-17 121 7811788725 8.66578. 81/87,4135 7E, 3142668 6461 dapna1877768587187 78 723 .76.1511.18 133 131 87817788 6E814 88676174 1570 7‘77678147176777 1.7. 161 1E6777677.67 5867-77281,161 6138E. 176 4774147 94999499999,91m macchilfr, 1411.5.0.0-38.1 . 128 IN 1776an E.G. M143.1.. 5681 478,3 1E2 199 1. NEL. 117 17.617,46 Ivo 184864 .1678.7.5 76667 199 193. 7411,8187..76 1575 077.7477 6778121 2511 66488, 173 0 77174478118647.638.01 088 768678 wiri Emma 7. 1687/17, 07871777337777.8.a.1277661 WWI 1Sz. 192 7..... 4 .. PJ-0,111 161 276.87. in 6:877773 816 LA, 6/181,2165 116 3M.69µ4 2,78518187167.andal 1111-127 ...en bean.ase,759 155 6775788 65840 E1,4 7 7 .E8/7867 , 5 787/ WW1 152

2.6768.61.8. 8074 8967178 E27 3711155 77.774.58771 71836178 8 6471562676786 77,77. 8g7., -7856/777186 157 8176.175781 .78 128 127 86388787. 54626528188 848 7 140 curry 7761.677 war, 1711. .15E564/887 wow 167 12 578.7886.3761 Goan 6654767ny 25 1187888158/687772167771 75. 73. 71 1.18;2217.766,74 8661.771,778.1 C667 V88 519485125-31 914141 997 518775486E 158 137 ME. 7/3871 85, 55 276.76.88:6766778.173. 37378678111. 87286 47. 71 . 4 051/3 7 063E5 17 6748155 1,718.7 1178678.148.521•44 56566 6.77714140.86381512 999.9 11.919.99999es 15171777 14787776687.77 1 518 110/ 4E8 847 158 Eeso, 56 95 5888777 0E8. 778617781 125.121 1788517,37867.877157ag 87.671 12014756.67.6682767.7 53 ,74,6[87/7 778161.6.76.38777 868e 54368 E. 77874 87 1 716-415 µa 174 516.64.36.7761 57 .4,8E6 176,117 887816647/66747 086E77 1. 1.4.1.7.8,0.00. 7.87/4 16641. 825 84168747.827711477.111 199 7817718 8850 7.178841EE17716,77.7277,7115

190 11453

1- 7r;717‘. 7,1_,74i.gE . rEE 19, 48 112713 6770 176/7 E. 86814187287/721826 115 E. Ela 66387 80118 177 E. 1478 867.666. 218 a 120. 114 Goan 867877878 LranalOnl 125 5777.71 no, any 2.1783718.81761 128 1.1.21.4667118317119, 119 5,7,81.76 El. PM181.371747 7178718 118

stearnestrzrAtespa....4.1 125 78784/77033277 fralatsrel 107 8.871767768 108105 11881 Ere. mass17517. 11,88 6-87678727788 2772. 71 8E277 E71 771874 51 74678 8886 71EE 58 E.,,

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aaneefl a 75% HI 441.123.10 I. la 1.52792,29.9796.2272991 122 ¶179. 15299.5 Ina rn122 29291299 0700,7, 47.11.1 727.22.92.26.9219-0 92262.. coppers 915 L. 106 Wows, ten.. ke044 110 Pa. rm.,. IS.447.1.107.1125 peas CA,. ono non 99, 979, 1.729121 165 5923 700440esdr,21222221 .9744 977.291169 922922 .57. ve.Libles L.1.-4114.6 801, .7.4131e.r-17154,4[10.14 1o9.12/ 167 77.7., ..1L71.740 ray on 9229 oemers 106 106 Me .252onon 46297o won 126 1.41se mer1001-Ineyt. pila 091529k 9.9299 Pee 4 ice 27 229929929221170. 101 Nen. 29729:92292126 ambit 112.13

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