Portugal
N
E
Viana do Castelo
Bragança
MINHO
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
Braga
S
Porto ALTO DOURO Espinho
ATLANTIC OCEAN
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Portugal
N
E
Viana do Castelo
Bragança
MINHO
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
Braga
S
Porto ALTO DOURO Espinho
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Vila Real
Rio Douro
Aveiro
DOURO LITORAL ero Du o i R
BEIRA ALTA Viseu
BEIRA LITORAL Coimbra
Guarda
Figueira da Foz
SPAIN Leiria Batalha Nazaré
ESTREMADURA Estoril
Cascais
Castelo Branco
Tomar
Peniche
Sintra
BEIRA BAIXA
Fátima
RIBATEJO Santarém
Rio Teejjoo
)s) ((RRiivveerr TTaagguus
Cáceres Portalegre
ALTO ALENTEJO
LISBON
Badajoz
Elvas
Setúbal
Cabo Espichel
Mérida
Évora
Cabo de Sines
Gu ad iana
Beja
Sines
Rio
BAIXO ALENTEJO
Portimão
Vila Real de S. António
ALGARVE
Sagres Lagos
Huelva
GA 60 mi
0 0
60 km
Seville FRANCE
Olhão L
Faro
P O RT U
W
S PA I N
Portugal 21st Edition
by Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince
Published by:
W I L E Y P U B L I S H I N G, I N C. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2010 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, 201/748-6011, fax 201/7486008, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 978-0-470-54120-3 Editor: Richard Goodman, with Christine Ryan Production Editor: Eric T. Schroeder Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: ©Tom Egan / Robert Harding Picture Library / Masterfile Back cover photo: ©Peter Horree / Alamy Images For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 877/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5
4
3
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CONTENTS
LIST OF MAPS
vii
1 THE BEST OF PORTUGAL 1 Frommer’s Favorite Portugal Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 2 The Best Towns to Visit . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 3 The Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 4 The Best Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 5 The Best Pousadas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
1 6 7 8 9 10 11
The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 The Best Palaces & Castles. . . . . . . . . .8 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 The Best Churches & Abbeys . . . . . .10 The Best Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 The Best Offbeat Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
2 PORTUGAL IN DEPTH 1 Portugal Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 2 Looking Back at Portugal. . . . . . . . . .15 The Lady in the Tutti-Frutti Hat. . . . . .20 3 Portugal’s Art & Architecture . . . . . .21
14 4 The Lay of the Land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 5 Portugal in Popular Culture: Books, Music, & Film. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 6 Eating & Drinking in Portugal. . . . . .27
3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO PORTUGAL 1 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Portugal Calendar of Events . . . . . . . .31 2 Entry Requirements & Customs . . .34 3 Getting There & Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 4 Money & Costs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 The Value of the Euro vs. Other Popular Currencies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 What Things Cost in Lisbon. . . . . . . . .46 Major Change in Credit Cards. . . . . . .48 5 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
6 7 8 9 10
31
Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .50 Sustainable Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 The Active Vacation Planner. . . . . . .55 Escorted General-Interest Tours . . . .57 Shopping Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 11 Special-Interest Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 12 Staying Connected. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 13 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .62
iv
4 SUGGESTED PORTUGAL ITINERARIES The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 1 Portugal in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 2 Portugal in 2 Weeks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70
3 Portugal for Families . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 4 The Algarve in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . .75
5 SETTLING INTO LISBON
CO N T E N T S
PORTUGAL
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . .84 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85
79 Fast Facts: Lisbon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 3 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
6 EXPLORING LISBON 1 Suggested Itineraries. . . . . . . . . . . . 122 2 The Top Attractions: The Alfama, Belem & Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Secrets of Lisbon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 3 More Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 4 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 5 City Strolls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Walking Tour: The Alfama . . . . . . . . 138 Walking Tour: Baixa, the Center & the Chiado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
122 6 Organized Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 7 Outdoor & Recreational Activities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 8 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 9 Lisbon Shopping: From Antiques to Wine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 10 Lisbon After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Fado: The Music of Longing. . . . . . . 153
7 ESTORIL, CASCAIS & SINTRA 1 2 3 4
Estoril: Playground of Royalty. . . . 160 Cascais. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Guincho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Queluz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
8 SOUTH OF THE TAGUS 1 Azeitao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 2 Sesimbra. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 The Best Beaches: Where the Locals Sun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 3 Portinho da Arrabida . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
65
160
Exploring the Palace . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 5 Sintra: Byron’s “Glorious Eden”. . . . . 180 6 Ericeira. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
194 Exploring the Mountains . . . . . . . . . 201 4 Setubal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Peninsula de Tróia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 5 Palmela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
9 ESTREMADURA 1 Obidos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 The Beaches of Estremadura. . . . . . 212 A Side Trip to Caldas da Rainha . . . 214 2 Alcobaca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
208 Off the Beaten Path: Nature in the Raw. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 3 Nazare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 4 Batalha. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 5 Fatima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
10 THE ALGARVE
227 5 6 7 8 9
11 ALENTEJO & RIBATEJO
271 3 4 5 6
12 COIMBRA & THE BEIRAS 1 Leiria. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 2 Figueira da Foz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 3 Coimbra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 An Excursion to the Roman Town of Conímbriga . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 4 Bucaco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
13 PORTO & ENVIRONS 1 Porto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Fast Facts: Porto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 “Porting” & Dining. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331 Walking Tour: The Heart of Porto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331
Elvas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Evora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Beja. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 Vila Nova de Milfontes . . . . . . . . . . 290
292 5 6 7 8 9
Luso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 Curia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Aveiro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Caramulo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 Viseu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317
321 2 Espinho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 3 Vila do Conde. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349 4 Ofir & Fao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
CO N T E N T S
1 Tomar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Travel Secrets of the Portuguese Plains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 2 Estremoz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277
Albufeira . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 Quarteira. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Almancil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Faro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 Vila Real de Santo Antonio . . . . . . 268
PORTUGAL
1 Sagres: “The End of the World” . . . . 228 2 Lagos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 3 Portimao. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Monchique: Escape to the Cool Mountains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 4 Silves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
v
vi
14 THE MINHO REGION & TRÁSOSMONTES 1 2 3 4
Guimaraes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 Braga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359 Barcelos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Esposende . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366
5 Viana do Castelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 A Village off the Beaten Path. . . . . . 370 6 Vila Real. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373 7 Braganca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 375
CO N T E N T S
PORTUGAL
15 MADEIRA & PORTO SANTO 1 Madeira Essentials. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380 Frommer’s Favorite Madeira Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382 2 Getting Around Madeira . . . . . . . . 384 Fast Facts: Madeira. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385 3 Where to Stay in Funchal. . . . . . . . 387 4 Where to Dine in Funchal . . . . . . . 395
379 5 Exploring Madeira. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397 6 Sports & Outdoor Activities on Madeira . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403 7 Shopping in Madeira. . . . . . . . . . . . 404 8 Madeira After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 406 9 Porto Santo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407 The Azores: Lost Continent of Atlantis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410
16 FAST FACTS, TOLLFREE NUMBERS & WEBSITES 1 Fast Facts: Portugal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414
INDEX General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 421 Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . 430
353
414
2 Airline, Hotel & Car Rental Websites. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419
421 Restaurant Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433
LIST OF MAPS Best Portugal Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . 69 Portugal for Families . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 The Algarve in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Lisbon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Lisbon Accommodations . . . . . . . . . 91 Lisbon Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Belém Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 The Bairro Alto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Walking Tour: The Alfama . . . . . . . . 139 Walking Tour: Baixa, the Center & the Chiado . . . . . . . . . . 142 Estoril & Environs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Sintra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
South of the Tagus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Estremadura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 The Algarve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Portimão . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 Alentejo & Ribatejo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Coimbra & the Beiras . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Coimbra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 Porto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 Walking Tour: Porto . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332 The Porto Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 The Minho Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355 Madeira. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381 Funchal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389
A B O U T T H E AU T H O R S As a team of veteran travel writers, Darwin Porter and Danforth Prince have produced numerous titles for Frommer’s which have included Italy, France, the Caribbean, Spain, England, Scotland, and Germany. A film critic, columnist, and broadcaster, Porter is also a Hollywood biographer. Recent releases by Darwin include Merv Griffin: A Life in the Closet, documenting the private life of the richest and most notorious man in television, and Paul Newman, The Man Behind the Baby Blues. Prince was formerly employed by the Paris bureau of the New York Times and is today the president of Blood Moon Productions and other media-related firms.
H OW TO CO N TAC T U S In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Portugal, 21st Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
A N A D D I T I O N A L N OT E Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
F R O M M E R ’S S TA R R AT I N G S, I CO N S & A B B R E V I AT I O N S Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds
Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Facts
Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun
Kids
Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments
Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated
Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips
Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value
Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
V Visa
T R AV E L R E S O U R C E S AT F R O M M E R S.CO M Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website, www.frommers. com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bargains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more.
The Best of Portugal Centuries ago, Portugal was a pioneer of worldwide exploration. Until recently, however, it was never as successful in attracting visitors to its own shores. Outside of greater Lisbon, the Algarve, and the island of Madeira, Portugal remained unknown and undiscovered by the mainstream visitor for many decades. Today’s travelers are beginning to realize that Portugal has been unjustly overlooked. It offers sandy beaches, art treasures, flavorful cuisine, a unique form of architecture (Manueline), charming handicrafts, a mild climate, moderate hotel rates, and polite and friendly people. Only 2 million annual visitors came to Portugal in the late 1970s. The number swelled to 20 million in the mid-1990s, and an explosion of hotel and resort building has kept pace. Today Portugal attracts some 22 million visitors annually. Despite its small size—225km (140 miles) wide and 612km (380 miles) long—Portugal is one of the most rewarding travel destinations in Europe. Exploring its towns, cities, villages, and countryside will likely take longer than expected because there is so much richness and variety along the way. The people, whose warmth is legendary, inhabit a land of extraordinary variety. You’ll see almond trees in the African-looking Algarve; cork forests and fields of golden wheat in Alentejo; ranches in Ribatejo; narrow, winding streets in the Alfama in Lisbon; oxdrawn carts crossing the plains of Minho; and vineyards in the Douro. Azaleas, rhododendrons, and canna grow for miles on end; the sound of fado music drifts out of small cafes; windmills clack in the Atlantic breezes; sardine boats bob in the bays; and gleaming whitewashed houses glisten in the sun. And the sea is never far away. The following list is merely a jumping-off point for the discoveries, like those by the mariners of old, that you’ll eventually make on your own in Portugal.
1 F R O M M E R ’S FAV O R I T E PORTUGAL EXPERIENCES • Hiking in the Algarve: Portugal’s incredible physical beauty makes it a spectacular place for outdoor activities. In the southern Algarve region’s lowlying lagoons and rocky highlands, the panoramas extend for miles over the nearby ocean. Especially rewarding is trekking through the territory near Sagres, which has retained its mystical hold on journeyers since it was known as the end of the world. Other worthwhile hikes include the footpaths around the villages of Silves and
Monchique, where eroded river valleys have changed little since the Moorish occupation. See chapter 10. • Pousada-Hopping: After World War II, the Portuguese government recognized that the patrimony of its great past was desperately in need of renovation. It transformed dozens of monasteries, palaces, and convents into hotels, honoring the historical authenticity of their architectural cores. Today’s travelers can intimately experience some of Portugal’s greatest architecture by
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THE BEST OF PORTUGAL
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F R O M M E R ’S FAV O R I T E P O R T U G A L E X P E R I E N C E S
1
staying in a pousada, part of a chain of state-owned and -operated hotels. The rooms are often far from opulent, and the government-appointed staffs will probably be more bureaucratic than you’d like. Nonetheless, pousada-hopping rewards with insights into the Portugal of long ago. • Playing Golf by the Sea: British merchants trading in Portugal’s excellent wines imported the sport of golf around 1890. Until the 1960s, it remained a diversion only for the very wealthy. Then an explosion of interest from abroad led to the creation of at least 30 major courses. Many courses lie near Estoril and in the southern Algarve. The combination of great weather, verdant fairways, and azure seas and skies is almost addictive (as if golf fanatics needed additional motivation). • Swooning to Fado: After soccer, fado (which translates as “fate”) music is the national obsession. A lyrical homage to the bruised or broken heart, fado assumes forms that are as old as the troubadours. Its four-line stanzas of unrhymed verse, performed by such legendary stars as Amália Rodriguez, capture the nation’s collective unconscious. Hearing the lament of the fadistas (fado singers) in clubs is the best way to appreciate the melancholy dignity of Iberia’s western edge. • Finding a Solitary Beach: Portugal has long been famous for the glamour and style of the beaches near Estoril, Cascais, Setúbal, and Sesimbra. More recently, the Algarve, with its 200km (124 miles) of tawny sands, gorgeous blue-green waters, and rocky coves, has captivated the imagination of northern Europeans. While the most famous beaches are likely to be very crowded, you can find solitude on the sands if you stop beside lonely expanses of any coastal road in northern Portugal.
• Fishing in Rich Coastal Waters: Portugal’s position on the Atlantic, its (largely) unpolluted waters, and its flowing rivers encourage concentrations of fish. You won’t be the first to plumb these waters—Portugal fed itself for hundreds of generations using nets and lines, and its maritime and fishing traditions are among the most entrenched in Europe. The mild weather allows fishing year-round for more than 200 species, including varieties not seen anywhere else (such as the 2m-long/6ft. scabbard). The country’s rivers and lakes produce three species of trout, as well as black bass and salmon; the cold Atlantic abounds in sea bass, shark, tope, grouper, skate, and swordfish. • Trekking to the End of the World: For medieval Europeans, the southwestern tip of Portugal represented the final frontier of human security and power. Beyond that point, the oceans were dark and fearful, filled with demons waiting to devour the bodies and souls of mariners foolhardy enough to sail upon them. Adding Sagres and its peninsula to the Portuguese nation cost thousands of lives in battle against the Moors, and getting there required weeks of travel over rocky deserts. Making a pilgrimage to this outpost is one of the loneliest and most majestic experiences in Portugal. Come here to pay your respects to the navigators who embarked from Sagres on journeys to death or glory. Half a millennium later, the excitement of those long-ago voyages still permeates this lonely corner. See chapter 10. • Losing It at a Spa: Compared to the sybaritic luxury of spas in Germany and France, Portuguese spas are underaccessorized, and by California’s frenetic standards, they’re positively sleepy. Still, central and northern Portugal share about half a dozen spas whose sulfur-rich
of the port-wine trade since the 1600s. From vineyards along the Douro, wine is transported to “lodges” (warehouses), where it is matured, bottled, and eventually shipped around the world. More than 25 companies, including such well-known names as Sandeman, maintain port-wine lodges here. Each offers free guided tours, always ending with a tasting of one or two of the house wines. The tourist office in Porto will provide you with a map if you’d like to drive along the Douro to see the vineyards. See chapter 13.
2 T H E B E S T TO W N S TO V I S I T peace. Their story was at first discounted and then embraced by a church hierarchy under assault by the ravages of World War I. Later, 70,000 people who were assembled on the site claimed to witness miracles. Today Fátima is the most-visited pilgrimage site in Iberia, home to dozens of imposing churches and monuments. See chapter 9. • Évora: This is one of the country’s most perfectly preserved architectural gems. A well-preserved ancient Roman temple rises across the street from convents and monasteries that flourished when the kings of Portugal used this town as their capital in the 12th century. These buildings combine with remnants of the Moorish occupation to form one of the most alluring, if not largest, architectural medleys in Europe. See chapter 11. • Tomar: Beginning in the 12th century, the Knights Templar and later the Knights of Christ (two warlike and semimonastic sects) designated Tomar as their Portuguese headquarters. They lavished the town with adornments over the centuries until it looked, as it does today, like a living monument to
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• Sintra: Since the Moorish occupation, Portuguese kings and nobles have recognized this town’s irresistible charm. You’ll find a denser concentration of beautiful villas and gardens here than anywhere else in Portugal. At least five major palaces and convents are tucked amid the lush vegetation. See chapter 7. • Óbidos: This town is the most perfectly preserved 13th-century village in central Portugal. Its historical authenticity is the primary concern of the population of more than 5,000. For 600 years, Óbidos was the personal property of Portuguese queens, a symbolic love offering from their adoring husbands. Óbidos has always breathed romance. See chapter 9. • Nazaré: This folkloric fishing village in central Portugal produces wonderful handicrafts. The town has a strong sense of traditional culture that’s distinctly different from that of nearby communities. See chapter 9. • Fátima: In 1913, an apparition of the Virgin Mary appeared to three shepherd children from Fátima, who were called upon to spread a message of
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waters have been considered therapeutic since the days of the ancient Romans. Luso, Monte Real, and Cúria are the country’s most famous spas, followed closely by Caldas do Gerês, Vimeiro, and São Pedro do Sul. Don’t expect the latest in choreographed aerobics and spinning classes; instead, sink into communion with nature, rid your body of the toxins of urban life, and retire early every night for recuperative sleep. • Tasting & Touring in Port Wine Country: Across the Rio Douro from the heart of the northern city of Porto lies Vila Nova de Gaia, the headquarters
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the architecture of medieval Portugal. See chapter 11. Coimbra: The country’s academic center, this town boasts a university with roots in the Middle Ages, a rich historic core, and a tradition of troubadourstyle singing that’s one of the most vital in Iberia. See chapter 12. Porto: The second city of Portugal, Porto has rich associations with the port-wine trade. Entrepreneurs who returned home after making their fortunes in Brazil built some of the town’s most imposing villas here in the late 19th century. But as Portugal’s economic center, Porto has also moved into the 21st century, with new office buildings, modern apartment complexes, fashionable shops and restaurants in its commercial heart, and such stunning developments as the Fundação Serralves, a National Museum of Modern Art, set in a 44-acre park in the western part of the city. See chapter 13. Guimarães: The birthplace of the country’s first king, Afonso Henríques, and the core from which the country expanded, Guimarães is the cradle of Portugal. Its medieval section is one of the most authentic anywhere. The town was also the birthplace of Gil Vicente (1465– 1537), a playwright referred to as the Shakespeare of Portugal. See chapter 14. Viana do Castelo: This northern town with strong folkloric traditions is noted for pottery, women’s regional dresses, abundant rainfall, and a collection of
distinctive and dignified public buildings. Its heyday was in the 1500s, when fleets departed from here to fish for cod as far away as Newfoundland. Profits from their activities helped pay for the town’s handsome collection of Manueline buildings. See chapter 14. • Guincho: On the Estoril Coast, 9km (51⁄2 miles) northwest of Cascais, this is the westernmost point in continental Europe. It’s a dramatic, spectacular site where waves crash against three sides of a restored 17th-century fortress (now the Hotel do Guincho, one of the most unusual, luxurious hotels in Europe). Balconies—best shared with a loved one—overlook the panoramic scene, with beaches on both sides. The crashing surf makes good background music for a torrid affair straight out of a romance novel. See chapter 7. • Serra de Arrábida: This whale-shaped ridge never exceeds 1,525m (5,000 ft.) in height. The masses of wildflowers that flank its sides are among the most colorful and varied in Iberia. The Serra lies between Sesimbra and Setúbal, across the estuary of the Tagus from Lisbon. En route from Lisbon, you’ll find crowded and secluded beaches, a medieval Capuchin monastery (the Convento Novo), and a smattering of good restaurants. The town of Sesimbra, with its historic, sleepy main square and ruined fortresses, offers bars, restaurants, and insight into the Iberia of a bygone era. See chapter 8.
3 T H E B E S T B E AC H E S • Costa do Sol: Sometimes called the Estoril Coast, this stretch of seafront extends 32km (20 miles) west of Lisbon. Its two major resorts are Estoril and Cascais. Once the playground of the wintering wealthy, the area now
attracts throngs of tourists, mainly from northern Europe. See chapter 7. • The Algarve: This region at the southern tip of Portugal gained its place on world tourist maps because of its string of beautiful, clean, sandy beaches.
Mira and Costa Nova are more secluded. See chapter 12. • Costa Verde: As the northern coastline approaches Galicia in Spain, the Atlantic waters grow colder, and even in summer they’re likely to be windswept. But on certain days they’re among the most dramatic in Europe. We like the wide, sandy beach at Ponte de Lima, but there are many others. Notable destinations are the resort of Espinho, south of Porto, and other beach meccas, including Póvoa do Varzim and Ofir, which have some of the best hotels, restaurants, and watersports equipment in the country. See chapter 13.
4 T H E B E S T H OT E L S furnishings that maintain the building’s historical character without flattening your wallet. See p. 97. • Albatroz (Cascais; & 21/484-73-80; www.albatrozhotels.com): In a garden overlooking the Atlantic, this inn was originally built as the summer residence of the dukes of Loulé. Since its transformation into a stylish hotel, its aristocratic elegance has drawn guests from throughout Europe. Service is impeccable. See p. 169. • Palácio Estoril (Estoril; & 21/464-8000; www.palacioestorilhotel.com): The Palácio enjoyed its heyday during the 1950s and 1960s, when every deposed monarch of Europe seemed to disappear into the Art Deco hotel’s sumptuous suites. The result: the curious survival in Estoril of the royal ambience of a Europe gone by. Today “the Palace” maintains a staff whose old-timers are among the best in Europe at offering royal treatment to guests. See p. 163. • Tivoli Palácio de Seteais (Sintra; & 21/ 923-32-00; www.tivolihotels.com):
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• Pestana Palace (Lisbon; & 21/36156-00; www.pestana.com): One of the grandest hotels to open in Portugal in years, this hotel lies in an upscale residential section 5km (3 miles) from the historic center. It was carved out of a villa built in 1907. It’s a stunning example of the Romantic Revival architectural style. See p. 102. • Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon (Lisbon; & 800/819-5053 in the U.S., or 21/381-14-00; www.fourseasons.com): Built in the 1950s and host to a roster that reads like a who’s who of international glamour, the Ritz is one of Portugal’s legendary hotels. Everywhere in the hotel, you’ll get the impression that a swanky reception is about to begin. See p. 90. • York House Hotel (Lisbon; & 21/39624-35; www.yorkhouselisboa.com): A former 17th-century convent and private home, York House is the place to stay in Lisbon. It abounds with climbing vines, antiques, four-poster beds, and Oriental carpeting—fittings and
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Lovely coves, caves, and grottos—some accessible only by boat—add to the region’s allure. Albufeira and Praia da Rocha are set against a backdrop of towering rock formations; the best cove beach is at Lagos, a former Moorish town with a deepwater harbor and wide bay. See chapter 10. • The Beiras: In central Portugal, north of Lisbon, some of the finest beaches in Europe open onto the Atlantic. Like gems in a necklace, good, sandy beaches stretch from Praia de Leirosa north to Praia de Espinho. The surf can be heavy and the undertow strong. Major resorts include Figueira da Foz and nearby Buarcos. The beaches between Praia de
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One of the most elegant hotels in Portugal bears one of the country’s most ironic names. In 1807, a treaty ending the Napoleonic campaign in Portugal was signed here, with terms so humiliating to the Portuguese that they labeled the building the Palace of the Seven Sighs. Any sighing you’re likely to do today will be from pleasure—at the setting, the lavish gardens, and the reminders of an old-world way of life. See p. 186. • Dona Filipa & San Lorenzo Golf Resort (Almancil; & 28/935-72-00; www.lemeridien.com): Rising above the sea, this hotel is comfortable, modern, well designed, and sophisticated, but the most stunning feature is the 180 hectares (445 acres) surrounding it. Part of the land is devoted to a superb golf course. Don’t let the severe exterior fool you—the inside is richly appointed with Chinese and Portuguese accessories, many of them antique. See p. 259. • Monte do Casal (Estói; & 28/999-1503; www.montedocasal.pt): An 18thcentury country house on the Algarve converted into one of the most charming and tranquil places along the coast, Monte do Casal is set on 3 hectares (71⁄2 acres) of flowering trees. It offers a chance to escape from the curse of the high-rise sea resort hotels and into an inn of style that captures some of the spirit of the region itself. See p. 268. • Bussaco Palace Hotel (Buçaco; & 23/ 193-79-70; www.almeidahotels.com): This palace, built between 1888 and 1907 as a sylvan refuge for the royal family, saw tragedy early. A year after its completion, the king and his oldest son were assassinated, leaving Queen Amélia to grieve within its azulejo-sheathed walls. In 1910, the palace’s enterprising Swiss chef persuaded the government to allow him to transform the place into an upscale hotel. Bittersweet memories
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of its royal past still seem to linger within the thick walls. See p. 308. HF Ipanema Park (Porto; & 22/53221-00; www.ipanemaparkhotel.pt): One of the leading government-rated five-star hotels in the north of Portugal offers 15 floors of grand comfort with the largest roster of facilities in the city, including an outdoor pool with a panoramic view on the 15th floor. This bastion of good taste and luxury is as popular with tourists as it is with its business clients. See p. 334. Hotel Infante Sagres (Porto; & 22/ 339-85-00; www.hotelinfantesagres. pt): A textile magnate built this hotel in 1951 in the style of a Portuguese manor house. Its elegant detailing makes it appear much older than it is. It’s the most nostalgic, elegant, and ornate hotel in Porto. The managers began their careers here as teenage bellboys, and the staff members take obvious pride in their hotel. See p. 334. Reid’s Palace (Funchal; & 800/2236800 in the U.S., or 29/171-71-71; www.reidspalace.com): For more than a century (it was founded in 1891 and enlarged in 1968), Reid’s has fulfilled the colonial fantasies of every British imperialist abroad. Set on a rocky promontory, it serves tea promptly at 4pm, contains English antiques that the Portuguese staff waxes once a week, and plays chimes to announce the beginning of the dinner service. It also features terraced gardens spilling down to the sea and a very correct clientele that once included Winston Churchill. See p. 388. Praia D’El Rey Marriott Golf & Beach Resort (Amoreira; & 26/29051-00; www.marriott.com/lisdr): Devotees of modern luxury should head to one of the most spectacular resorts north of Lisbon, 16km (10 miles) west of the romantic walled city of Óbidos.
It opens onto a sandy beach and boasts an 18-hole golf course on 243 hectares (600 acres) of oceanfront property. Its
facilities include a spa, health club, tennis courts, and a choice of three firstclass restaurants. See p. 211.
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6 T H E B E S T R E S TAU R A N T S • Clara Restaurante (Lisbon; & 21/88530-53; www.lisboa-clara.pt): This elegant citadel, with a refined dining room playing soft piano music and serving a remarkable Portuguese and international cuisine, is a favorite among serious palates. The chefs take special care
with all their ingredients, and we sing their praises year after year for their impeccable offerings. See p. 106. • Gambrinus (Lisbon; & 21/342-1466; www.gambrinuslisboa.com): It isn’t as upscale as some of its competitors or the preferred rendezvous of the
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with two low-slung stories, it was most recently renovated in 1992. It offers comfortable, colorful lodgings. See p. 281. • Pousada de Estremoz, Rainha Santa Isabel (Estremoz; & 26/833-20-75; www.pousadas.pt): Housed in a structure built during the Middle Ages, the Santa Isabel is the most lavish pousada in Portugal. Reproductions of 17thcentury antiques, about .5 hectares (11⁄4 acres) of gleaming marble, and elaborately detailed tapestries create one of the most authentic old-fashioned decors in the region. Guests have included Vasco da Gama, who was received here by Dom Manuel before the explorer’s departure for India. See p. 279. • Pousada de Évora, Lóios (Évora; & 26/673-00-70; www.pousadas.pt): This pousada was conceived as a monastery and rebuilt in 1485 adjacent to the town’s ancient Roman temple. The purity of its design and the absence of exterior encroachments from the modern world contribute to one of the most aesthetically thrilling experiences in Portugal. Inside there are no traces left of its original austerity—everything is luxurious and comfortable. See p. 285.
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• Pousada de Setúbal, São Filipe (Setúbal; & 26/555-00-70; www. pousadas.pt): During the 1500s, this structure served as a defensive link in a chain of fortresses surrounding Lisbon. Today it boasts antique azulejos (glazed earthenware tiles), panoramic views of the town, and a keen sense of Portuguese history. The rooms are simple (some might say monastic) but comfortable and tidy. See p. 204. • Pousada de Óbidos, Castelo de Óbidos (Óbidos; & 26/295-50-80; www. pousadas.pt): This pousada lies in a wing of the castle that protects one of the most perfectly preserved medieval towns in Portugal. In 1285, King Dinis offered the castle—along with the entire village—to his beloved Queen Isabel. Inside, the medieval aesthetic coexists with improved plumbing, electricity, and unobtrusive contemporary comforts. See p. 211. • Pousada de Elvas, Santa Luzia (Elvas; & 26/863-74-70; www.pousadas.pt): This pousada opened in 1942 during the most horrible days of World War II, near the strategic border crossing between neutral Portugal and fascist Spain. Vaguely Moorish in design,
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country’s most distinguished aristocrats. Nonetheless, this is one of the hippest, best-managed seafood restaurants in Lisbon; the stand-up bar proffers an astonishing array of shellfish. Enjoy a glass of dry white port accompanied by some of the most exotic seafood in the Atlantic. See p. 106. • Casa da Comida (Lisbon; & 21/38853-76): This restaurant is probably at its best on foggy evenings, when roaring fireplaces remove the damp chill from the air. Don’t let the prosaic name fool you—some visitors prefer its Portuguese-French cuisine over the food at any other restaurant in Lisbon. Portions are ample, and the ambience is bracing and healthful. See p. 104. • Cozinha Velha (Queluz; & 21/43502-32): During the 1700s, food for the monarchy’s most lavish banquets was prepared here (the name means “old kitchen”). Today the high-ceilinged kitchens serve an unusual restaurant, whose cuisine reflects the old days of Portuguese royalty. Dishes include cataplana, a savory fish stew with clams, shrimp, and monkfish. Equally outstanding is soufflélike bacalhau espiritual (codfish), which takes 45 minutes to prepare and should be ordered when you make your reservation. The restaurant is celebrated for its desserts, many of which are based on ancient convent recipes. See p. 179. • Porto de Santa Maria (Guincho; & 21/487-10-36 or 21/487-02-40; www.portosantamaria.com): The understated beige-and-white decor highlights the restaurant’s bubbling aquarium and sea view. The menu lists nearly every conceivable kind of shellfish, served in
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the freshest possible combinations in a justifiably popular dining room. See p. 178. Four Seasons (in the Palácio Estoril, Estoril; & 21/464-80-00): This tranquil restaurant, with its rich colors and artful accents, has been a fixture in Estoril since the days when deposed European monarchs assembled here with their entourages. High glamour, old-world service, and impeccably prepared international cuisine are this place’s hallmarks. See p. 165. Casa Velha Restaurante (Quinta do Lago, near Almancil; & 28/939-49-83; www.restaurante-casavelha.com): On a rocky hilltop above the modern resort of Quinta do Lago (with which it is not associated), this restaurant occupies a century-old farmhouse, with kitchens modernized for the preparation of gourmet food. The sophisticated cuisine includes preparations of upscale French and Portuguese recipes. See p. 260. Churrascão do Mar (Porto; & 22/ 609-63-82): Porto’s most elegant restaurant, serving Brazilian cuisine, is housed in a 19th-century antique manor restored to its Belle Epoque glory. The town’s finest chefs turn out a savory cuisine specializing in grilled seafood. See p. 339. Don Tonho (Porto; & 22/200-43-07): Visiting celebrities are usually directed to this citadel of fine cuisine (both European and Portuguese) in the eastern end of this port city. The setting perfectly suits the bracing cuisine that often features freshly caught fish from the Atlantic. The prices are also surprisingly affordable for such deluxe dishes. See p. 340.
7 T H E B E S T PA L AC E S & C A S T L E S • Castelo de São Jorge (the Alfama, Lisbon; & 21/880-06-20; www.castelo saojorge.egeac.pt): This hilltop has long
been valued as a fortification to protect settlements along the Tagus. Today the bulky castle crowns one of the most
8 THE BEST MUSEUMS • Museu da Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian (Lisbon; & 21/782-3000; www.museu.gulbenkian.pt): Its namesake was an Armenian oil czar, Calouste Gulbenkian (1869–1955), whose fortune derived from a 5% royalty on most of the oil pumped out of Iraq. His eclectic collections of Asian
and European sculpture, paintings, antique coins, carpets, and furniture are on display in a modern compound in a lush garden. See p. 130. • Museu Nacional dos Coches (Lisbon; & 21/361-08-50): Founded by Queen Amélia in 1904, when the horse-drawn buggy was becoming obsolete, this
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a symbol of the Portuguese monarchs in their most aesthetically decadent stages. See p. 184. • Castelo dos Mouros (Sintra; & 21/ 923-73-00; www.parquesdesintra.pt): In the 19th century, the monarchs ordered that this castle, evocative of the Moorish occupation of Portugal, remain as a ruined ornament to embellish their sprawling parks and gardens. Set near the much larger, much more ornate Pena palace (see above), the squat, thick-walled fortress was begun around a.d. 750 by the Moors and captured with the help of Scandinavian Crusaders in 1147. It retains its jagged battlements, a quartet of eroded towers, and a ruined Romanesque chapel erected by the Portuguese as a symbol of their domination of former Moorish territories. See p. 182. • Bussaco Palace Hotel (Buçaco; & 23/ 193-79-70; www.almeidahotels.com): Of all the buildings in this list, the Palace of Buçaco is the most important national icon. Completed in 1907, it’s also the only one that operates as a hotel, allowing visitors to sleep within the walls of a former royal palace. Constructed from marble, bronze, stained glass, and exotic hardwoods, and inspired by the greatest buildings in the empire, it represents more poignantly than any other Portuguese palace the final days of the doomed aristocracy. See p. 308.
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densely populated medieval neighborhoods of Lisbon, the Alfama. It encompasses a nostalgic collection of thick stone walls, medieval battlements, Catholic and feudal iconography, verdant landscaping, and sweeping views of one of Europe’s greatest harbors. See p. 124. • Palácio Nacional de Queluz (near Lisbon; & 21/434-38-60; www.ippar.pt/ monumentos/palacio_queluz.html): Designed for the presentation of music and royal receptions in the 1700s, this castle was modeled as a more intimate version of Versailles. It’s a symmetrical building ringed with gardens, fountains, and sculptures of mythical heroes and maidens. Although gilt, crystal, and frescoes fill its interior, most Portuguese are proudest of the azulejos room, where hand-painted blue-and-white tiles depict day-to-day life in the Portuguese colonies of Macao and Brazil. See p. 180. • Palácio Nacional de Pena (Sintra; & 21/910-53-40; www.parquesde sintra.pt): Only a cosmopolitan 19thcentury courtier could have produced this eclectic, expensive mélange of architectural styles. Set in a 200-hectare (495-acre) walled park, it was commissioned by the German-born consort of the Portuguese queen; it reminds some visitors of the Bavarian castles of Mad King Ludwig. Appointed with heavy furnishings and rich ornamentation, it’s
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museum is located on the premises of the riding school of the Palácio do Belém (the official home of the Portuguese president). It contains dozens of magnificent state carriages, some decorated with depictions of Portugal’s maritime discoveries. See p. 129. • Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (Lisbon; & 21/391-28-00; www. mnarteantiga-ipmuseus.pt): In the 1830s, the power of many of Portugal’s fabulously wealthy monasteries was violently curbed. Many of the monasteries’ art treasures, including the country’s best collection of Portuguese primitives,
as well as gold and silver plates crafted from raw materials mined in India, are displayed at the 17th-century palace of the counts of Alvor. See p. 132. • Museu de Marinha (Lisbon; & 21/ 362-00-19; http://museu.marinha.pt.): The most important maritime museum in the world—a rich tribute to Portugal’s Age of Exploration—is in the west wing of the Jerónimos Monastery. The thousands of displays include royal galleons dripping with gilt and ringed with depictions of saltwater dragons and sea serpents. See p. 128.
9 T H E B E S T C H U R C H E S & A B B E YS • Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Belém; & 21/ 362-00-34; www.mosteirojeronimos. pt): More than any other ecclesiastical building in Portugal, this complex represents the wealth that poured into Lisbon from the colonies during the Age of Discovery. Begun in 1502 in Belém, the seaport near the gates of Lisbon, it’s the world’s most distinctive Manueline church. Richly ornate and unlike any other building in Europe, it has, among other features, columns carved in patterns inspired by the rigging of Portuguese caravels laden with riches from Brazil and India. See p. 126. • Palácio Nacional de Mafra (Mafra; & 26/181-75-50; www.ippar.pt): This convent was originally intended to house only about a dozen monks, but after the king of Portugal was blessed with an heir, he became obsessed with its architecture and vastly augmented its scale. Construction began in 1717, and funding came from gold imported from Portuguese settlements in Brazil. Some 50,000 laborers toiled more than 13 years to complete the convent. Today the buildings alone cover 4 hectares
(9 acres) and include a royal palace as well as accommodations for 300 monks. A park whose outer wall measures 19km (12 miles) surrounds the complex. See p. 192. • Mosteiro de Santa Maria (Alcobaça; & 26/250-51-20): More closely associated with the Portuguese wars against the Moors than almost any other site in Iberia, this monastery was a gift from the first Portuguese king (Afonso Henríques) to the Cistercians in 1153. As part of one of the most dramatic landimprovement projects in Portuguese history, a community of ascetic monks cleared the surrounding forests, planted crops, dug irrigation ditches, and built a soaring church (completed in 1253) that critics cite as one of the purest and most artfully simple in Europe. See p. 215. • Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitória (Batalha; & 24/476-54-97): In 1385, the Castilian Spaniards and the Portuguese, led by a youth who had been crowned king only a week before, fought one of the most crucial battles in Iberian history. The outcome ensured
Iberia, this convent was originally intended as a monastic fortress. Successive building programs lasted half a millennium, ultimately creating a museum of diverse architectural styles. Some of the interior windows, adorned with stone carvings of ropes, coral, frigate masts, seaweed, cables, and cork trees, are the most splendid examples of Manueline decoration in the world. See p. 272.
10 THE BEST SHOPPING After the ouster of the Moors, their aesthetic endured in the designs painted on tiles and ceramic plates, vessels, and jugs. Later, styles from Holland, England, and China combined to influence a rich tradition of pottery-making. The most prevalent of these appear as the blue-and-white azulejos (tiles), each with an individual design, which adorn thousands of indoor and outdoor walls throughout the country. Equally charming are the thousands of plates, wine and water jugs, and vases adorned with sylvan landscapes populated with mythical creatures. New and (to a lesser extent) antique samples of any of these items can be acquired at outlets throughout Portugal. • Jewelry: In Portugal, any piece of jewelry advertised as “gold” must contain at least 19.2 karats. This purity allows thousands of jewelers to spin the shining stuff into delicate filigree work with astounding detail. Whether you opt for a simple brooch or for a depiction in gold or filigreed silver of an 18th-century caravel in full four-masted sail, Portugal produces jewelry worthy of an infanta’s dowry at prices more reasonable than you might expect. The country abounds in jewelry stores.
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Here’s a list of some of the more enchanting artifacts and handicrafts produced in Portugal: • Arraiolos Carpets: The Moorish traditions that once prevailed in the town of Arraiolos, where the carpets are still manufactured, inspired their intricate stitching. Teams of embroiderers and weavers work for many days, using pure wool in combinations of petit point with more widely spaced ponto largo cross-stitches. The resulting depictions of garlands of fruit and flowers (a loose interpretation of French Aubusson carpets) and animals scampering around idealized gardens (a theme vaguely inspired by carpets from Persia and Turkey) are some of the most charming items for sale in Portugal. The size of the piece and the intricacy of the design determine the price, which is often less than half what you’d pay in North America. If you can’t make it to Arraiolos, you’ll find the carpets for sale at outlets in Lisbon. • Ceramics & Tiles: Early in Portugal’s history, builders learned to compensate for the lack of lumber by perfecting the arts of masonry, stuccoing, and ceramics. All were used to construct the country’s sturdy, termite-proof buildings.
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Portugal’s independence for another 200 years. It was celebrated with the construction of the monastery at Batalha, whose style is a triumph of the Manueline and Flamboyant Gothic styles. See p. 222. • Convento da Ordem de Cristo (Tomar; & 24/931-34-81; www.ippar. pt/monumentos/conjunto_cristo.html): Built in 1160 along the most hotly contested Muslim-Christian border in
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• Handicrafts: For centuries, the design and fabrication of lace, rugs, hand-knit clothing, woodcarvings, and embroidered linens have evolved in homes and workshops throughout Portugal. Although some of the cruder objects available for sale are a bit clunky, the best can be called art. From the north to the south, store after store offers regional handicrafts.
• Leather Goods: Iberia has always been a land of animal husbandry, bullfighting, and cattle breeding, and the Portuguese leather-making industry is known throughout the world. Its products include jackets, shoes, pocketbooks, and wallets, all of which sell for prices much more reasonable than those outside Portugal. The best stores are concentrated in Lisbon.
1 1 T H E B E S T O F F B E AT T R I P S • Horseback Riding Along the Coast: Seeing this beautiful country from the back of a well-trained, even-tempered Lusitano is a rewarding experience, but some of the best opportunities can be had along the Atlantic Ocean beach. Some of the best tours are available through the American company Equitour. In addition to beach riding, the company offers trekking through olive groves, vineyards, pine forests, and lagoons. For more details, see chapter 3. • Appreciating Manueline Architecture: Manuelino—as it’s known in Portuguese—marked a dramatic artistic shift from the late Gothic style prevalent during the reign of King Dom Manuel. It mixes Christian motifs with shells, ropes, and strange aquatic shapes and is usually crowned with heraldic or religious symbols. The best example is the grand Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monastery) in Belém, outside Lisbon, dating from the 16th century (see chapter 6). Another towering example is the mysterious and astrologic visions of the famous window of the Convento da Ordem de Cristo (Convent of Christ) in Tomar, the bastion of the Knights Templar in days gone by. See p. 272. • Visiting the Lost Continent of Atlantis: One of the most offbeat travel experiences in Europe is a trip to the
Azores. Mythologists believe the remote Portuguese islands in the mid-Atlantic are the only remnants of the lost continent of Atlantis. For hundreds of years they were considered the end of the earth, the outer limits of the European sphere of influence, beyond which ships could not go. Even today they’re a verdant but lonely archipelago where the winds of the ocean meet, cyclones call on each other, and urbanites can lose themselves in fog-bound contact with the sea. See p. 410 for info. • Paying a Call on Berlenga Island: Berlenga is a granite island 11km (7 miles) west of the Portuguese coastline. The island has always been the first line of defense against invaders from the sea. In 1666, 28 Portuguese tried to withstand 1,500 Spaniards who bombarded the site from 15 ships. A medieval fortress demolished in the battle was rebuilt several decades later and today houses a no-frills hostel. The entire island and the rocky, uninhabited archipelago that surrounds it are a designated nature reserve whose flora and fauna—both above and below the surface of the sea—are protected from development and destruction. Boat transport departs from the Peniche Peninsula, about 92km (57 miles) north of Lisbon. See chapter 9.
northwestern Spain. Much of the plateau is arid and rocky, but swift rivers and streams provide water for irrigation, and thermal springs have bubbled out of the earth since at least Roman times. You can drive through these savage landscapes, but don’t expect superhighways. What you’ll find are ruins of pre-Roman fortresses, dolmens, and cromlechs erected by prehistoric Celts, and decaying old churches. See chapter 14.
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• Heading “Beyond the Mountains”: The northernmost district of Trás-osMontes is a wild, rugged land whose name means “beyond the mountains.” Exploring this region provides a glimpse into a Portugal infrequently seen by outsiders. Most of the population lives in deep valleys, often in traditional houses built of shale or granite, and speaks a dialect of Galician similar to that spoken just across the border in
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Portugal in Depth Portugal, positioned at what was once thought to be the edge of the earth, has long been a seafaring nation. At the dawn of the Age of Exploration, mariners believed that two-headed, fork-tongued monsters as big as houses lurked across the Sea of Darkness, waiting to chew up a caravel and gulp its debris down their fire-lined throats. In spite of these paralyzing fears, Portugal launched legendary caravels on explorations that changed the fundamental perceptions of humankind: Vasco da Gama sailed to India, Magellan circumnavigated the globe, and Dias rounded the Cape of Good Hope. In time, Portuguese navigators explored two-thirds of the earth, opening the globe to trade and colonization and expanding the intellectual horizons of Western civilization for all time. In spite of its former influence, Portugal still suffers from one of the most widespread misconceptions in European travel—that it’s simply “another Spain,” and a poorer version, at that. Before its European political and economic integration in 1986, some dared to call it “the last foreign country of Europe.”
1 P O R T U G A L TO D AY Portugal is moving deeper into the 21st century in more ways than one as it struggles to take its place among the leading capitalist economies of western Europe. Portugal today is a land in transition. The country is long past the quasifascism of the Salazar era and the leftist excesses (including revolution) that followed when the government fell in 1974. Portugal has moved forward since then, although its growth rate still runs at only half the productivity rate of the E.U. average. An increasing trend toward revitalization has targeted the horribly inefficient state-run companies, including the national bus company. Banks and other financial institutions, newspapers, petroleum refineries, and food processors, among others, continue to fall into private hands. Workers, however, still earn only about a third of the pay of their counterparts in the United Kingdom and France. Nearly
half of the country’s residents can barely read or do simple math, according to a post-millennium literacy study. One-quarter of Portuguese households remain below the poverty level. Portugal joined the European Union in 1986, instigating a major overhaul of the country. Fellow members of the European Union, along with investors in the United States and elsewhere, continue to pump money into Portugal, fueling industry and improving infrastructure. The use of that money is apparent in vastly improved railways, new highways, better schools, more advanced hospitals, and vastly upgraded port and airport facilities. Telecommunications and transport are improving, and greater numbers of young Portuguese are receiving on-the-job training to help them compete in the modern world, especially in the computer industry. Resort hotels continue to sprout around the country, and many old palaces are being reconditioned
downturn, the Portuguese have high hopes for the new century. Lisbon’s sidewalks are as crowded in the evening as Madrid’s. Young Portuguese are much better tuned in to Europe than their parents were. The younger generation is as well versed in the electronic music coming out of London and Los Angeles as in fado repertoires, and more taken with French and Spanish films than with Portuguese lyric poetry. Still, as Portugal advances with determination deeper into the 21st century, its people retain pride in their historic culture.
2 LO O K I N G B AC K AT P O R T U G A L Moorish control is believed to have begun in 718. In the 11th century, Ferdinand the Great, king of León and Castile, took much of northern Portugal from the Moors. Before his death in 1065, Ferdinand set about reorganizing his western territories into Portucale. Portuguese, a Romance language, evolved mainly from a dialect spoken when Portugal was a province of the Spanish kingdom of León and Castile. The language developed separately from other Romance dialects. PORTUGAL IS BORN Ferdinand handed over Portugal to his illegitimate daughter, Teresa. (At that time, the Moors still held the land south of the Tagus.) Unknowingly, the king of Spain had launched a course of events that was to lead to Portugal’s development into a distinct nation. Teresa was firmly bound in marriage to Henry, a count of Burgundy. Henry accepted his father-in-law’s gift of Portugal as his wife’s dowry, but upon the king’s death, he coveted Spanish territory as well. His death cut short his dreams of expansion.
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THE ROMANS ARRIVE Starting in 210 b.c., the Romans colonized most of Iberia. They met great resistance from the Celtiberian people of the interior. The Lusitanian (ancient Portugal was known as Lusitania) leader, Viriatus, looms large in Portuguese history as a freedom fighter who held up the Roman advance; he died about 139 b.c. The Romans were ultimately unstoppable, however, and by the time of Julius Caesar, Portugal had been integrated into the Roman Empire. The Roman colonies included Olisipo (now Lisbon). Christianity arrived in Portugal near the end of the 1st century a.d. By the 3rd century, bishoprics had been established at Lisbon, Braga, and elsewhere. Following the decline of the Roman Empire, invaders crossed the Pyrenees into Spain in 409 and eventually made their way to Portugal. The Visigothic Empire dominated the peninsula for some 2 centuries. THE MOORS INVADE & RETREAT In 711, a force of Moors arrived in Iberia and quickly advanced to Portugal. They erected settlements in the south. The Christian Reconquest—known as the Reconquista—to seize the land from
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and opened to paying guests for the first time in their long histories. Regrettably, however, all this refurbishing has led to Portugal’s becoming quite expensive. Before the late 1990s, it was the unequivocal bargain-vacation paradise of western Europe. Now, in the 21st century, its hotels and restaurants are as expensive as those elsewhere in Europe—although, even in Lisbon, the prices are nowhere near as staggering as those in London, Paris, or Oslo. There’s a general feeling of optimism in Portugal; in spite of a world economic
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Following Henry’s death, Teresa ruled Portugal; she cast a disdainful eye on, and an interfering nose into, her legitimate sister’s kingdom in Spain. Teresa lost no time mourning Henry and took a Galician count, Fernão Peres, as her lover. Teresa’s refusal to conceal her affair with Peres and stay out of everyone else’s affairs led to open strife with León. Teresa’s son, Afonso Henríques, was incensed by his mother’s actions. Their armies met at São Mamede in 1128. Teresa lost, and she and her lover were banished. Afonso Henríques went on to become Portugal’s founding father. In 1143, he was proclaimed its first king, and official recognition eventually came from the Vatican in 1178. Once his enemies in Spain were temporarily quieted, Afonso turned his eye toward the Moorish territory in the south of Portugal. Supported by crusaders from the north, the Portuguese conquered Santarém and Lisbon in 1147. Afonso died in 1185. His son and heir, Sancho I, continued his father’s work of consolidating the new nation. Successive generations waged war against the Moors until Afonso III, who ruled from 1248 to 1279, wrested the Algarve from Moorish control. The country’s capital moved from Coimbra to Lisbon. After Portugal became independent
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210 B.C. The Romans invade the peninsula, meeting fierce resistance from the Celtiberian people. 60 B.C. During the reign of Julius Caesar, Portugal is fully integrated into the Roman Empire. A.D. 409 Invaders from across the Pyrenees arrive, establishing a Visigothic empire that endures for some 2 centuries.
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in the 11th century, its borders expanded southward to the sea. The Moors left a permanent impression on Portugal. The language called Mozarabic, spoken by Christians living as Moorish subjects, was integrated into the Portuguese dialect. The basic language of today, both oral and written, was later solidified and perfected in Lisbon and Coimbra. Castile did not recognize Portugal’s borders until the reign of Pedro Dinis (1279–1325). Known as the Poet King or the Farmer King (because of his interest in agriculture), he founded a university in Lisbon in about 1290; it later moved to Coimbra. Dinis married Isabella, a princess of Aragon who was later canonized. Isabella was especially interested in the poor. Legend has it that she was once smuggling bread out of the palace to feed them when her husband spotted her and asked what she was concealing. When she showed him, the bread miraculously turned into roses. Their son, Afonso IV, is remembered today for ordering the murder of his son Pedro’s mistress. During Pedro’s reign (1357–67), an influential representative body called the Cortes (an assembly of clergy, nobility, and commoners) began to gain ascendancy. The majority of the
711 Moorish warriors arrive in Iberia and conquer Portugal within 7 years. 1065 Ferdinand, king of León and Castile, sets about reorganizing his western territories into what is now modern Portugal. 1143 Afonso Henríques is proclaimed the first king of Portugal and begins to drive the Moors out of the Algarve.
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1249 Afonso III completes the Reconquista of the Algarve, as Christians drive out the Moors. 1279–1325 Reign of Dinis, the Poet King. Castile recognizes Portugal’s borders. 1385 Battle of Aljubarrota. João de Avis defeats the Castilians and founds the House of Avis to rule Portugal. 1415 Henry the Navigator sets up a school of navigation in Sagres. Madeira is
HENRY BUILDS A MARITIME EMPIRE
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discovered in 1419; the Azores are discovered in 1427. 1488 Bartolomeu Dias rounds the Cape of Good Hope. 1498 Vasco da Gama rounds India’s west coast, opening up trade between the West and the East. 1500 Brazil is discovered. Peak of the reign of Manuel the Fortunate (1495–1521).
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Portugal’s Golden Age begins. 1521 Portugal becomes the first of the great maritime world empires, dominating access to the Indian Ocean. 1521–57 Reign of João III, ushering in Jesuits and the Inquisition. 1578 João’s son, Dom Sebastião, disappears in the battle of Morocco, leaving Portugal without an heir.
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1581–1640 Philip II of Spain brings Habsburg rule to Portugal. 1640 Following a nationalist revolution, João IV restores independence and launches the House of Bragança. 1755 A great earthquake destroys Lisbon and parts of Alentejo and the Algarve. 1822 Portugal declares Brazil independent.
continues
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Henry’s demand for geographical accuracy and his hunger for the East’s legendary gold, ivory, slaves, and spices drove him to exploration. To promote Christianity, he joined the fabled Christian kingdom of Prester John to drive the Muslims out of North Africa. To develop navigational and cartographic techniques, Henry established a community of scholars at Sagres, on the south coast of Portugal. He was responsible for the discovery of Madeira, the Azores, Cape Verde, Senegal, and Sierra
Leone, and he provided the blueprint for continued exploration during the rest of the century. In 1482, Portuguese ships explored the mouth of the Congo, and in 1488, Bartolomeu Dias rounded the Cape of Good Hope. In 1497, Vasco da Gama reached Calicut (Kozhikode), on India’s west coast, clearing the way for trade in spices, porcelain, silk, ivory, and slaves. The Treaty of Tordesillas, negotiated by João II in 1494, ensured Portugal’s possession of Brazil. Using the wealth of the whole empire, Manuel I (the Fortunate; reigned 1495–1521) inspired great monuments of art and architecture whose style now bears his name. His reign inspired Portugal’s Golden Age. By 1521, the country had begun to tap into Brazil’s natural resources and had broken Venice’s spice-trade monopoly. As the first of the great maritime world empires, Portugal dominated access to the Indian Ocean. João III (reigned 1521–57) ushered in the Jesuits and the Inquisition. His son, Sebastião, disappeared in battle in Morocco in 1578, leaving Portugal without an heir. Philip II of Spain claimed the Portuguese throne and began 60 years of Spanish domination. In the East, Dutch and English traders undermined Portugal’s strength.
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clergy, greedy for power, fought the sovereign’s reform measures, which worked to ally the people more strongly with the crown. During the reign of Pedro’s son, Ferdinand I (1367–73), Castilian forces invaded Portugal, Lisbon was besieged, and the dynasty faced demise. In 1383, rather than submit to Spanish rule, the Portuguese people chose the illegitimate son of Pedro as regent. That established the house of Avis. João de Avis (reigned 1383–1433) secured Portuguese independence by defeating Castilian forces at Aljubarrota in 1385. His union with Philippa of Lancaster, the granddaughter of Edward III of England, produced a son who oversaw the emergence of Portugal as an empire—Prince Henry the Navigator.
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THE HOUSE OF BRAGANÇA A nationalist revolution in 1640 brought a descendant of João I to the throne as João IV. That began the House of Bragança, which lasted into the 20th century. João IV forged an English alliance by arranging his daughter’s marriage to Charles II. For her dowry, he “threw in” Bombay and Tangier. In 1668, Spain recognized Portugal’s independence with the Treaty of Lisbon. On All Saints’ Day in 1755, a great earthquake destroyed virtually all of Lisbon. In 6 minutes, 15,000 people were killed. The Marquês de Pombal, adviser to King José (reigned 1750–77), later reconstructed Lisbon as a safer and more beautiful city. Pombal was an exponent of absolutism, and his expulsion of the Jesuits in 1759 earned him powerful enemies throughout Europe. He curbed the power of the Inquisition and reorganized and expanded industry, agriculture, education, and the military. Upon the death of his patron, King José, he was exiled from court. In 1793, Portugal joined a coalition with England and Spain against Napoleon. An insane queen, Maria I (reigned 1777–1816), and an exiled royal family facilitated an overthrow by a military junta. A constitution was drawn up, and Maria’s son, João VI (reigned 1816–26), accepted the position of constitutional
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1908 Carlos I, the Painter King, and his son, the crown prince, are assassinated in Lisbon. 1910 The monarchy is ousted and the Portuguese Republic is established. 1916 Portugal enters World War I on the side of the Allies. 1926 The Republic collapses and a military dictatorship under Gomes da Costa is established.
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monarch in 1821. João’s son, Pedro, declared independence for Brazil in 1822 and became a champion of liberalism in Portugal. FROM REPUBLIC TO DICTATORSHIP
Between 1853 and 1908, republican movements assaulted the very existence of the monarchists. In 1908, Carlos I (reigned 1889–1908), the Painter King, and the crown prince were assassinated at Praça do Comércio in Lisbon. Carlos’s successor was overthrown in an outright revolution on October 5, 1910, ending the Portuguese monarchy and making the country a republic. Instability was the watchword of the newly proclaimed republic, and revolutions and uprisings were a regular occurrence. Portugal’s attempt to remain neutral in World War I failed when—influenced by its old ally, England—Portugal commandeered German ships in the Lisbon harbor. This action promptly brought a declaration of war from Germany, and Portugal entered World War I on the side of the Allies. The republic’s precarious foundations collapsed in 1926, when a military revolt established a dictatorship, headed by Gomes da Costa. His successor, António Óscar de Fragoso Carmona, remained president until 1951, but only as a figurehead. António de Oliveira Salazar became finance
1932–68 António de Oliveira Salazar keeps a tight hold on the government during his long reign as dictator. Portugal is officially neutral in World War II, but Salazar grants the Allies bases in the Azores. 1955 Portugal joins the United Nations. 1974 The April “flower revolution” topples the dictatorship; Portugal collapses into near anarchy.
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1976–83 Sixteen provisional governments reign over a Portugal in chaos. 1986 Portugal joins the European Union. Mário Soares is elected president. 1989 Privatization of stateowned companies begins. 1991 Soares is reelected. 1992 Portugal holds the presidency of the European Union.
MODERN PORTUGAL WRESTLES WITH DEMOCRACY Dr. Marcelo
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1995 Portugal is designated the cultural capital of Europe. 1998 Millions flock to Lisbon for EXPO ’98, celebrating the heritage of the oceans. 1999 Portugal officially adopts the euro as its soonto-be standard currency. 2002 Portugal abandons the escudo and switches to the euro.
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2001–05 Under a Socialist government, Portugal continues to carry out modern reforms. 2006 Portugal sets aside its southwest coast as a natural park; Aníbal Cavaco Silva becomes president. 2008–2009 Portugal legalizes abortion but upholds ban on gay marriage.
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Caetano replaced Salazar. Six years later, following discontent in the African colonies of Mozambique and Angola, revolution broke out. The dictatorship was overthrown on April 25, 1974, in a military coup dubbed the “flower revolution” because the soldiers wore red carnations instead of carrying guns. After the revolution, Portugal drifted into near anarchy. Finally, after several years of turmoil and the failures of 16 provisional governments
from 1976 to 1983, a revised constitution came into force in the 1980s. In 1976, Portugal loosened its grasp on its once-extensive territorial possessions. The Azores and Madeira gained partial autonomy. All the Portuguese territories in Africa—Angola, Cape Verde, Portuguese Guinea, Mozambique, and São Tomé and Príncipe (islands in the Gulf of Guinea)— became independent countries. Portugal also released the colony of East Timor, which Indonesia immediately seized. From the time of the revolution until 1987, Portuguese governments rose and fell much too quickly for the country to maintain political stability. Moderates elected Gen. Ramalho Eanes as president in the wake of the revolution, and he was reelected in 1980. He brought the military under control, allaying fears of a rightwing coup to prevent a Socialist takeover. However, Eanes appointed a Socialist, Mário Soares, prime minister three times. In the 1985 elections, the left-wing vote was divided three ways, and the Socialists lost their vanguard position to the Social Democratic Party. Their leader, Dr. Aníbal Cavaco Silva, was elected prime minister. In January 1986, Eanes was forced to resign the presidency. He was replaced by Soares, the former Socialist prime minister, who became the first civilian president in 60 years.
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minister in 1928 and rescued the country from a morass of economic difficulties. He went on to become the first minister, acting as (but never officially becoming) head of state. He was declared premier of Portugal in 1932, and he rewrote the Portuguese constitution along Fascist lines in 1933. In World War II, Salazar asserted his country’s neutrality, although he allowed British and American troops to establish bases in the Azores in 1943. After Carmona’s death in 1951, Salazar became dictator, living more or less ascetically and suppressing all opposition. He worked in cooperation with his contemporary, the Spanish dictator Francisco Franco. In 1955, Portugal joined the United Nations. Salazar suffered a stroke in 1968 and died in 1970. He is buried in the Panteão Nacional in Lisbon.
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The Lady in the Tutti-Frutti Hat
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She was called “The Brazilian Bombshell.” In the 1940s, one critic labeled her Brazil’s most famous export. Ah, but there’s a secret here: The great Carmen Miranda, the star of all those big Hollywood musicals in the 1940s and 1950s, was actually Portuguese. In 1909 she was born Maria do Carmo Miranda da Cunha, in the little village of Marco de Canavezes, in the north of Portugal. Costumed garishly, with bowls of fruit perched on her head, she wriggled outrageously through such kitschy numbers as “Tico Tico,” in such 20th Century Fox films as Downstairs Argentine Way and The Gang’s All Here. Although she appeared with a number of other stars, fans most remember her for her appearance with co-stars Cesar Romero and Alice Faye. Today an entirely new generation of young people is discovering this Latin bombshell as her old hits are revived on TV. In 1911, she moved with her family to Rio de Janeiro, where in time she learned to make outrageous hats for wealthy customers. One of them asked her to sing at a party. With her sambas and tangos, she was an immediate hit. At age 19, she made her first record on the RCA Victor label. Called Tai, it sold a record-breaking (for the era) 35,000 copies. Her career was launched, eventually leading to 140 records and six films produced in Brazil. The United States soon discovered her and she was lured to Hollywood, where her career soared. By 1943, she (along with Barbara Stanwyck and Bing Crosby) was one or the highest paid performers in the United States. Her act captured the fantasy of drag queens around the world (and still does!). With her colored dresses, stylized bananas, turbans, outrageous platform shoes that made Joan Crawford look flat-heeled, dangling earrings, and a shimmering dance step, Carmen Miranda emerged as an ambassador of the Portuguese world like no star before or since. Although a hit with American audiences, she did not always meet with approval in her native Latin world. Many Latin Americans objected to the stereotype she projected—that of an oversexed, vivacious, and clownish cartoon of a Brazilian woman. Regrettably, her career also degenerated into caricature. After a failed marriage and a severe bout of depression, she ended up making farcical appearances in the 1950s. She made appearances on TV with Milton Berle (also dressed in Carmen Miranda drag). On August 5, 1955, she collapsed on the set of “The Jimmy Durante Show” and died of a heart attack shortly after. Today, decades after her death, the memory of this Portuguese-Brazilian legend is kept alive by her legions of impassioned fans. A biography, Carmen Miranda, by Cássio Emmanuel Barsante, has been published, with 900 photos and illustrations, the result of 20 years of exhaustive research. A film was made of her life, Bananas Is My Business. Even the Film Forum in New York has honored her with retrospectives. Coveted, adored, ridiculed, and eulogized, Carmen Miranda will no doubt remain a legend as long as there’s a late show on TV.
3 P O R T U G A L’S A R T & A R C H I T E C T U R E Although not as rich in art and architecture as neighboring Spain, tiny Portugal made its own artistic statement and developed its own style. FROM ROMAN TO ROMANESQUE
Most of the ancient Roman buildings of Portugal were destroyed by a series of invaders who swept over the country. One of the greatest Roman monuments, Templo de Diana (p. 284) stands
in Évora. It dates from either the 1st or 2nd century A.D. Its 14 granite Corinthian columns are still intact, more or less, showing the harmony of classical architecture in Portugal. Portugal’s greatest Roman remains are found at Conímbriga, 16km (10 miles) southwest of the university city of Coimbra. See p. 306 for details about visiting this ancient setting.
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his own country but in all E.U. countries as well. In 2006, Portugal’s sleepy southwestern shore became Europe’s latest coastal preserve, as 200,000 unspoiled acres were set aside for the enjoyment of future generations. Southwest Alentejo and Costa Vicentina Natural Park, farmland since Roman times, is now under severe building restrictions which will maintain its pristine beauty. The area begins in the town of Sines, a 2-hour drive south of Lisbon, and stretches for 60 miles (91km) of dunes, beaches, and black basalt cliffs. Since taking office in 2006, Silva has also positioned himself as a firm believer in globalization and counterterrorism and has worked to promote economic growth and to deal with unemployment in Portugal. Although elected as a center Right candidate, Silva has disappointed many of his backers. He is a practicing Roman Catholic and a self-described believer in the Fátima apparitions, yet, critics claim, he has not vetoed legislation proposed by the Left. For example, he signed into law a bill legalizing abortion within the first 10 weeks of pregnancy. With low voter turnout in 2008—58% did not vote—abortion was legalized. In other developments, however, Portugal, unlike Spain, has upheld the country’s ban on gay marriage. Even so, Portugal’s constitution forbids discrimination based on sexual orientation.
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Although his administration had its share of political scandal, President Soares won a landslide victory in the January 1991 elections. With the elections of 1995, constitutional limitations forced Soares to step down. He was replaced by Jorge Sampaio, the former Socialist mayor of Lisbon. As president, Sampaio didn’t make great waves, focusing on moderation. He did oversee the return of the Portuguese island of Macau to China in December 1999, and he also championed the cause of independence for East Timor, another former Portuguese colony. Most editorial writers in Lisbon called the presidency of Sampaio “remarkably uneventful.” That said, Portugal took a major leap in 1999 when it became part of the euro community, adopting a single currency, along with other European nations such as Spain, Italy, Germany, and France. On February 28, 2002, the nation of Portugal formally assigned its longtime currency, the escudo, to permanent mothballs and started trading in euros. This officially launched Portugal, along with 11 other European nations, into the European Monetary Union. PORTUGAL TODAY In 2006, Sampaio was succeeded in office by Aníbal Cavaco Silva, the politician he defeated in 1996. In office, the eco-friendly Silva has stressed the environment, not only protecting it in
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It really wasn’t until the 11th century, when Portugal became a separate kingdom, that architecture took on a national identity. Portuguese art began with the Burgundy dynasty when Romanesque architecture and sculpture were in its heyday. The architecture was heavily influenced by France but took on characteristics of its own. This architecture in the north of Portugal, bordering Galicia, would survive until the 15th century. Most of the churches built during that time were modeled after the great pilgrimage center of Santiago de Compostela, which lies north of the Portuguese border. One of the greatest examples of architecture from this period is the cathedral, or Sé (p. 360), in the city of Braga, dating from the 12th century. It was originally constructed to replace a church destroyed by the Moors in the 8th century. Major rebuilding in the 16th to the 18th century has destroyed much of the 12th century structure. The most significant remains of the Middle Ages are in the south portal with its six pillars crowned by capitals and ornamented with sculptured monsters and geometric traceries. By 1185, Alonso Henríques, “The Conqueror,” had vastly increased Portugal’s territories. Monastic orders moved into the former territories controlled by the Moors. Great monasteries arose, especially the Mosteiro de Santa Maria (p. 215) at Alcobaça, which dates from the 12th century and was founded by Cistercian monks. At the city of Tomar, the Convento da Ordem de Cristo (p. 272), was built by the Knights Templar. Of all the Romanesque churches erected at this time, the classic one is Sé Velha (p. 300) standing in the university city of Coimbra, which Afonso Henríques had made his capital. The cathedral evokes a fortified castle, and merges French Romanesque with Peninsula architectural styles.
An even more awe-inspiring church from the Romanesque era is the Sé, or Cathedral, at Évora (p. 284), dating from 1186. Built in the shape of a Latin cross, it is a blend of Romanesque and Gothic. THE GOTHIC & RENAISSANCE ERAS
Winning the battle against invading Castile in 1385, João I came to the throne. As the first monarch of the House of Avis, he presided over a flowering of Portuguese art and architecture. This era with Manueline influences (see below) would survive for 2 centuries, until 1580, when Portugal fell under the Spanish crown for 60 years. While the Italian Renaissance style was sweeping parts of Europe, Portugal seemed stuck in the Gothic period. Begun in the late 14th century, the Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitória (p. 222) at Alcobaça remains a glorious monument to this time. It is arguably the most outstanding example of Gothic architecture in Portugal. When Renaissance architectural styles and art arrived in Portugal, it was most often incorporated into Gothic art, leading to a medley of styles. Gothic sculpture was mainly developed for the adornment of tombs such as the Royal Cloister at Batalha. The royal chapel arches built here were in the original late-Gothic style, but the masonry rising above them show the intricacies of the newly emerging Manueline style. Portugal was never a leader in art in its earliest centuries, but a primitive painter, Nuno Gonçalves, rose up through the ranks to become celebrated for his polyptych, which he created between 1460 and 1470, depicting 60 portraits of the leading figures in Portuguese history. His masterpiece hangs today in the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (p. 132) in Lisbon. Very little is known about this mysterious artist, not even his exact birth or death dates. However, he was active between 1450 and 1490. He is depicted, among
several other historic figures, on the Padrão dos Descobrimentos or Monument of the Discoveries in Belém near Lisbon. PORTUGAL’S UNIQUE MANUELINE STYLE The style known as Manueline
and architecture comes from the Portuguese word barroco. Under the reign of King João V (1706–50), the Monastery of Mafra was constructed outside Lisbon between 1713 and 1730. It is Portugal’s answer to the more famous Escorial outside Madrid. Rather severe in its lines, the monastery is Neoclassical, except for spired cupolas on its cubic towers.
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BAROQUE ART LATE 17TH18TH CENTURY The baroque style of art
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or Manuelino is unique to Portugal. It predominated between 1490 and 1520, and remains one of the most memorable art forms to have emerged from the country. It’s named for Manuel I, who reigned from 1495 to 1521. When Dom Manuel I inaugurated the style, Manueline architecture was shockingly modern, a farsighted departure from the rigidity of medieval models. It originally decorated portals, porches, and interiors, mostly adorning old rather than new structures. The style marked a transition from the Gothic to the Renaissance in Portugal. Old-timers claim that Manuelino, also called Atlantic Gothic, derived from the sea, although some modern-day observers detect a surrealism that foreshadowed Salvador Dalí’s style. Everything about Manueline art is a celebration of seafaring ways. In Manuelino works, Christian iconography combines with shells, ropes, branches of coral, heraldic coats of arms, religious symbols, and imaginative waterborne shapes, as well as with Moorish themes. Many monuments throughout the country—notably the Monastery of Jerónimos in Belém, outside Lisbon—offer examples of this style. Others are in the Azores and Madeira. Sometimes Manuelino is combined with the famous tile panels, as in Sintra National Palace. The first Manueline building in Portugal was the classic Church of Jesus at Setúbal, south of Lisbon. Large pillars in the interior twist in spirals to support a flamboyant ribbed ceiling. Although it’s mainly an architectural style, Manuelino affected other artistic fields as well. In sculpture, Manuelino was usually decorative. Employed over doorways, rose windows, balustrades, and lintels, it featured everything from a corncob
to a stalk of cardoon. Manuelino also affected painting; brilliant gemlike colors characterize works influenced by the style. The best-known Manueline painter was Grão Vasco (also called Vasco Fernandes). His most famous works include several panels, now on exhibition in the Grão Vasco museum, that were originally intended for the Cathedral of Viseu. The most renowned of these panels are Calvary and St. Peter, both dating from 1530. “The Great Vasco” was but one of a series of Manueline painters who flourished between 1505 and 1550. These men created a true Portuguese School of Painting, with life-size human figures. Another leading artist was Jorge Afonso, court painter from 1508 to 1540 and a native of Brazil. He was the leader of the so-called Lisbon School of Painting. There are no existing works that can be definitely attributed to him, however. Gil Vicente (1465–1537) achieved success as a goldsmith, using precious metals shipped back from South America. He was actually a Renaissance man, also excelling as a playwright, poet, and musician. Portuguese art declined during the 60-year reign of Spain beginning in 1580. The new Spanish rulers suppressed the unique Manueline style and restored classical motifs from Italy. Even when the Portuguese took back their country, with the reign of João IV, an artistic revival did not occur until decades later.
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Obviously, extensive rebuilding had to follow the devastating earthquake that destroyed much of Lisbon in 1755. As a result of this earthquake, the Terreiro do Paço was created, and it remains today one of the great squares of the world, forming the official entrance to the city of Lisbon. A royal palace at Queluz (p. 180) was constructed in 1787 and is similar to the palace of Versailles outside Paris. Rococo art, coming in the wake of the baroque, found few adherents in Portugal. A great sculptor rose out of the 18th century, Joaquim Machado de Castro (1732–1822). He cultivated terra-cotta relief, and did so with great delicacy and restraint. LATE 18TH TO THE 19TH CENTURY
Political upheavals dominated this period. Portuguese architects worked in a medley of styles, their buildings having no national identity. The conservative taste of both the people and the government ruled the day, although Ventura Terra, who died in 1889, was a forerunner of the 20th century international style. The artist of the day was António de Sequeira (1768–1837), who was court painter in Lisbon in 1802. He drifted into Romanticism, and was mainly concerned with man’s personality and purpose. He was also an artist of great perception, and evolved into a master of chiaroscuro, balancing light and shade in a painting. In sculpture, Teixeira Lopes (1866–1918) became a dominant figure. Born in Porto, he is known for his monument to the novelist Eça de Queirós which stands in Lisbon. Among painters, Columbano Bordalo Pinheir (1856–1929), achieved renown
with his portraits and still lifes. A sense of French Romanticism prevailed in his paintings. He often posed his subject in a dramatic light against a cloudy background. 20TH CENTURY In the first decades of the 20th century, Art Nouveau and Art Deco began to occupy the architects of Portugal, especially in the cities of Coimbra, Leiria, and Lisbon. The Museu Gulbenkian (p. 130) in Lisbon definitely moved Portugal into the foreground of modern architecture. From the Porto School of Architecture emerged Álvaro Siza, who was commissioned to restore the Chiado quarter in Lisbon, which was devastated by a fire in 1988. In the 1980s Tomás Taviera distinguished himself by constructing in Lisbon a postmodern Torre das Amoreiras. In sculpture, the towering figure of the 20th century was Francisco Franco (1885–1955), who designed many commemorative monuments to the dictator Salazar. No giant figure arose in painting, although many Portuguese modern artists have distinguished themselves, including Almada Negreiros (1889–1970), who was influenced by Cubism, as well as Maria Helena Vieira da Silva (1908–1920), who was influenced by the Portuguese azulejos (tiles) in her works, especially the color in her paintings. Amadeo de Souza Cardoso (1887–1918) found his motif in the development of Cubism and shows the influence of his friend, Modigliani. Lourdes de Castro, José de Guimarães, and Júlio Pomar are among some of the leading contemporary painters of the 20th century.
4 T H E L AY O F T H E L A N D Portugal has a coastline stretching some 500 miles. It’s bounded on the south and west by the Atlantic Ocean and on the north and east by Spain. Continental
Portugal totals some 34,000 square miles; its Atlantic islands, including Madeira and the Azores, extend the size of the country by another 1,200 square miles. The Azores
5 P O R T U G A L I N P O P U L A R C U LT U R E : BOOKS, MUSIC, & FILM BOOKS General The Portuguese: The Land and Its People, by Marion Kaplan (Viking, 2006), is one of the best surveys of the country. The work covers Portuguese history all the way from the country’s Moorish origins to its maritime empire and into the chaotic 20th century. It also gives travel information and discusses politics, the economy, literature, art, and architecture.
A towering achievement, Journey to Portugal: In Pursuit of Portugal’s History and Culture, is a compelling work by the Nobel Prize–winner José Saramago. Saramago traveled across his homeland to get a “new way” of feeling about Portugal’s history and culture. From that personal quest, he created this monumental work.
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north. Because of the influence of the Atlantic, dry spells don’t last for long periods. In fact, the ocean gives Portugal one of the highest rainfalls in Europe. However, in the extreme southern point of the Algarve rainfall annually might be lower than 16 inches. The capital, Lisbon, of course has the densest concentration of people, followed by the second city of Porto in the north. Lisbon lies on the Tagus, Porto on the Douro River. The other leading cities are few. Braga, which was Portugal’s first capital, lies between the Cávado and Este rivers, dominating the valley of the Minho. Braga is followed by the university city of, and regional capital of, Coimbra, which lies on the right bank of the Mondego River. Setúbal, to the south of Lisbon, lies on the wide Sado estuary on the shores of the Bay of Setúbal and is sheltered by Cape Espichel, a part of the Serra da Arrábida mountain range. More than half of the country is under cultivation. Soil in the south tends to be poor, but in the north it is rich and ideal for cultivation. Sea products represent about one fifth of the nation’s exports. Sardines are the major catch, followed by tuna.
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lie some 700 miles west of Lisbon (Lisboa), the capital of the country. Portugal has four major rivers—the Minho, in the north, which separates the country from Spain; the Douro, also in the north, known for vineyards producing port wine; the Tagus, which flows into the Atlantic at Lisbon; and the Guadiana, in the southeast. Part of the Guadiana forms an eastern frontier with Spain. The topography of Portugal is made up of a high plain of uneven height split by deep valleys. In the south the landscape is lower and less rugged than the north. Mountains are few on the Algarve, except for the Serra de Monchique or the Serra de São Mamede near the Spanish border. The north has a series of mountain chains with high massifs such as the Serra do Marão rising to some 4,000 feet. The Tagus River forms a natural border between north and south. Flora and fauna differ between the north and south of Portugal, because of the climatic differences. In the south, you find plant species indigenous to Africa and the Atlantic islands, whereas in the north the species are those found in European and Mediterranean zones. Along the coast, the maritime pine tree predominates. The climate is temperate and usually mild, with dry summers, especially in the
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History A Concise History of Portugal, by David Birmingham is far too short at 209 pages to capture the full sweep of Portuguese history, but it is nonetheless a very readable history for those who like at least a brief preview of a country’s past before landing there. Another version of the same subject is Portugal: A Companion History, by José H. Saraiva. It will give you a sweeping saga of the land you’re about to visit. Portugal’s role abroad is best presented in Charles Ralph Boxer’s Portuguese Seaborne Empire. Since its initial publication in 1969, this frequently reprinted book has been the best volume for explaining how an unimportant kingdom in western Europe managed to build an empire stretching from China to Brazil.
Fiction & Biography The epic poem of Portugal, Os Lusíadas, written in 1572 by the premier Portuguese poet Luís Vaz de Camóes, celebrates the Portuguese Age of Discovery. In 1987, Penguin rereleased this timeless classic. The best biography on Camóes himself remains Aubrey Bell’s Luis de Camóes. One of Portugal’s most beloved writers, Eça de Queirós, wrote in the late 19th century. Several of his best-known narratives have been translated into English, notably The Maias, The Illustrious House of Ramires (New Directions Publishing, 1994), The Mandarin and Other Stories, The City and the Mountains, The Relic, The Sin of Father Amaro, and Dragon’s Teeth. Queirós (1845–1900) was the most realistic Portuguese novelist of his time, and his works were much admired by Emile Zola in France. The Maias is the best known and the best of his works. The great poet Fernando Pessoa (1888– 1935) is second only to Camóes in the list of illustrious Portuguese writers. Some of his works have been translated into English. Pessoa is still beloved by the
Portuguese, and for decades he appeared on the 100-escudo note before it went out of circulation in 2002. The Return of the Caravels, by António Lobo Antunes, is an unusual novel set in 1974. It brings back Portugal’s history as an imperial power by “collective memory,” as Vasco da Gama, Cabral, and other explorers return to Lisbon, anchoring their small but significant vessels alongside the giant tankers of today. José Saramago, winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature (see “General,” above), remains one of the best novelists of modern-day Portugal. His Baltasar and Blimunda is a magical account of a flying machine and the construction of Mafra Palace—it’s a delightful read. The work New Portuguese Letters by the “Three Marias” (Maria Isabel Barreno, Maria Teresa Horta, and Maria Fátima Velho da Costa), first published in Portugal in 1972, is available in English. The Portuguese government banned and confiscated all copies and arrested its authors on a charge of “outrage to public decency.” They were acquitted 2 years later, and the case became a cause célèbre for feminist organizations around the world.
Wines The finest book on the most famous of Portuguese fortified wines, port, is Richard Mayson’s Port and the Douro. This is a comprehensive, articulate, and intriguing work. You learn the history of port from the 4th century up through modern methods of bottling the wine today.
MUSIC Arguably the oldest urban folk music in the world, fado remains the soul music of Portugal. From the 1940s until her death in 1999, Amália Rodrigues was the top diva fadista in Portugal. No one in the post-millennium has dethroned her. A current sensation, Ana Laíns, takes a much more contemporary approach to
she “tugs at the heart and soul,” in the words of one music critic. Groups that are current favorites in the Portuguese music world include Ala Dos Namorados, known for their innovative repertoire that ranges from rhythms of Cape Verde to re-creations of medieval voices. Music by all of the above singers can be purchased at Valentim de Carvalho (Rua do Carmo; & 21/324-15-70), the best music store in Lisbon.
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6 E AT I N G & D R I N K I N G I N P O R T U G A L In her book Invitation to Portugal, Mary Jean Kempner gets to the heart of the Portuguese diet: “The best Portuguese food is provincial, indigenous, eccentric, and proud—a reflection of the chauvinism of this complex people. It takes no sides, assumes no airs, makes no concessions or bows to Brillat-Savarin—and usually tastes wonderful.”
DINING CUSTOMS Much Portuguese cooking is based on olive oil and the generous use of garlic. If you select anything prepared to order, you can request that it be sem alho (without garlic). It’s customary in most establishments to order soup (invariably a big bowl filled to the brim), followed by a fish and a meat course. Potatoes and rice are likely to
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The Portuguese film industry is barely drawing a breath, but occasionally a flick will come along of worldwide interest. Before you go you might pick up a DVD of Fados, a 2007 documentary about the soul music of the Portuguese working class. The film comes at an opportune time as fado music is enjoying a renewed vogue in the nightclubs of Portugal, with the best and most prolific number of dives located in Lisbon. The film, written and directed by Carlos Saura, traces the birth of fado in the slums of Lisbon in the 1820s. Originally, the music expressed the longing for the homelands of the immigrants who had settled into Lisbon from far-flung Portuguese colonies. Fado also sang of lost loves and unfulfilled hopes. The film pays particular homage to the late Amália Rodrigues, greatest of all fadistas.
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fado than did Amália. Her first album, Sentidos, was released in 2006 and scored an international success. Her songs blend introspective themes with simple lullaby melodies remembered from her childhood. The greatest guitar player in Portugal is Antonio Chainho. His voice plays “second fiddle” to his guitar, whose music he makes the focal point of his concerts and recordings. After the release of his solo album, O Mesmo Fado, António Zambujo has been hailed as “best new fado singer” in the Lisbon press. As a fadistic, Zambujo is a lover of tradition—that is, classical fado. Another respected fadista is Cristina Branco, who preferred jazz, blues, or bossa nova until she discovered the “passion and emotion of fado.” Her unique interpretation of fado is heard on her latest album, Murmúrios. One of the most promising of today’s young male fadistas is Durate; another new-generation fadistic is Joana Amendoeiraq, who is known for her sensuous and moving harmonies, which have gained her an international following. Ever since she released her first album, Mafalda, in 1999, Mafalda Arnauth has become an important voice of fado, not only in Portugal but abroad as well. Mariza was singing fado before she could read. Her first CD, Fado em Mim, offers six of the most classic fado songs and six original compositions. In all of them
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accompany both the meat and fish platters. In many restaurants, the chef features at least one prato do dia (plate of the day). These dishes are prepared fresh that day and often are cheaper than the regular offerings. CUISINE Couverts are little appetizers, often brought to your table the moment you sit down. These can include bread, cheese, and olives. In many restaurants they are free; in others you are charged extra. It’s a good idea to ask your waiter about extra costs. In many places, the charge for these extras is per person. Remember: Not everything served at the beginning of the meal is free. Another way to begin your meal is to select from acepipes variados (hors d’oeuvres), which might include everything from swordfish to olives and tuna. From the soup kitchen, the most popular selection is caldo verde (green broth). Made from cabbage, sausage, potatoes, and olive oil, it’s common in the north. Another ubiquitous soup is sopa alentejana, simmered with garlic and bread, among other ingredients. Portuguese cooks wring every last morsel of nutrition from their fish, meat, and vegetables. The fishers make sopa de mariscos by boiling the shells of various shellfish and then richly flavoring the stock and lacing it with white wine. The first main dish you’re likely to encounter on any menu is bacalhau (salted codfish), faithful friend of the Portuguese. As you drive through fishing villages in the north, you’ll see racks and racks of the fish drying in the sun. Foreigners might not wax rhapsodic about bacalhau, although it’s prepared in imaginative ways. Common ways of serving it include bacalhau cozido (boiled with such vegetables as carrots, cabbage, and spinach, and then baked), bacalhau à Bras (fried in olive oil with onions and potatoes, and flavored with garlic), bacalhau à Gomes de Sá (stewed with black olives, potatoes, and
onions, and then baked and topped with a sliced boiled egg), and bacalhau no churrasco (barbecued). Aside from codfish, the classic national dish is caldeirada, the Portuguese version of bouillabaisse. Prepared at home, it’s a pungent stew containing bits and pieces of the latest catch. Next on the platter is the Portuguese sardine. Found off the Atlantic coasts of Iberia as well as France, the country’s 6- to 8-inch-long sardines also come from Setúbal. As you stroll through the alleys of the Alfama or pass the main streets of small villages throughout Portugal, you’ll sometimes see women kneeling in front of braziers on their front doorsteps grilling the large sardines. Grilled, they’re called sardinhas assadas. Shellfish is one of the great delicacies of the Portuguese table. Its scarcity and the demand of foreign markets, however, have led to astronomical price tags. The price of lobsters and crabs changes every day, depending on the market. On menus, you’ll see the abbreviation Preço V., meaning “variable price.” When the waiter brings a shellfish dish to your table, always ask the price. Many of these creatures from the deep, such as king-size crabs, are cooked and then displayed in restaurant windows. If you do decide to splurge, demand that you be served only fresh shellfish. You can be deceived, as can even the experts, but at least you’ll have demanded that your fish be fresh and not left over from the previous day’s window display. When fresh, santola (crab) is a delicacy. Santola recheada (stuffed crab) might be too pungent for unaccustomed Western palates, though; amêijoas (baby clams) are a safer choice. Lagosta is translated as “lobster” but is, in fact, crayfish; it’s best when served without adornment. The variety of good-tasting, inexpensive fish served here includes salmonette (red mullet) from Setúbal, robalo (bass),
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While locked away in isolated convents and monasteries, Portuguese nuns and monks have created some original sweet concoctions. Many of these desserts are sold in little pastry shops throughout Portugal. In Lisbon, Porto, and a few other cities, you can visit a salão de chá (tea salon) at 4pm to sample these delicacies. Regrettably, too few restaurants feature regional desserts. The most typical dessert is arroz doce, cinnamon-flavored rice pudding. Flan, or caramel custard, appears on all menus. If you’re in Portugal in summer, ask for a peach from Alcobaça. One of these juicy, succulent yellow fruits will spoil you forever for all other peaches. Sintra is known for its strawberries, Setúbal for its orange groves, the Algarve for its almonds and figs, Elvas for its plums, the Azores for their pineapples, and Madeira for its passion fruit. Some people believe that if you eat too much of the latter, you’ll go insane. Portugal doesn’t offer many egg dishes, except for omelets. However, eggs are used extensively in many sweets. Although egg yolks cooked in sugar might not sound appealing, you might want to try some of the more original offerings. The best known are ovos moles (soft eggs sold in colorful barrels) that originate in Aveiro. From the same district capital comes ovos de fio (a sweet dish made of eggs and sugar). WINE For generations, much of what the English-speaking world knew about Portugal came from the reports that wine merchants brought back to Britain from the wineries of the Douro Valley. Today Portugal is famous throughout the world for its port wines, and many parts of central and northern Portugal are covered with well-tended vines sprouting from intricately laid-out terraces. • Port: Known for decades as the Englishman’s wine, port was once the drink uncorked for toasting in England. In gentlemen’s clubs, vintage port (only
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lenguado (sole), and sweet-tasting pescada (hake). Less appealing to the average diner, but preferred by many discriminating palates, are eiros (eels), polvo (octopus), and lampreas (lampreys, a seasonal food in the northern Minho district). Piri-piri is a sauce made of hot pepper from Angola. Jennings Parrott once wrote: “After tasting it you will understand why Angola wanted to get it out of the country.” Unless you’re extremely brave, consider ordering something else. Travelers accustomed to hot, peppery food, however, might like it. Porto residents are known as tripe eaters. The local specialty is dobrada (tripe with beans), a favorite of workers. The cozido á portuguesa is another popular dish. This stew often features both beef and pork, along with fresh vegetables and sausages. The chief offering of the beer tavern is bife na frigideira (beef in mustard sauce), usually served piping hot in a brown ceramic dish with a fried egg on top. Thinly sliced iscas (calves’ livers) are usually well prepared and sautéed with onion. Portuguese meat, especially beef and veal, is less satisfying. The best meat in Portugal is porco (pork), usually tender and juicy. Especially good is porco alentejano (fried pork in a succulent sauce with baby clams), often cooked with herb-flavored onions and tomatoes. Cabrito (roast kid) is another treat, flavored with herbs and garlic. Chicken tends to be hit-or-miss and is perhaps best when frango no espeto, or spit-roasted golden brown. In season, game is good, especially perdiz (partridge) and codorniz estufada (pan-roasted quail). Queijo (cheese) is usually eaten separately and not with fruit. The most common varieties of Portuguese cheese are made from sheep or goat’s milk. A popular variety is queijo da serra (literally, cheese from the hills). Other well-liked cheeses are queijo do Alentejo and queijo de Azeitao. Many prefer queijo Flamengo (similar to Dutch Gouda).
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1% of all port made) was dispensed from a crystal decanter. Later, when the English working classes started drinking less superior port in Midland mill towns, they often spiked it with lemon. Today the French consume almost three times the amount of port that the British do. Some 40 varieties of grape go into making port. Made from grapes grown in rich lava soil, port today is either vintage or blended, and ranges from whites to full-bodied tawnies and reds. The latter is often consumed at the end of a meal with cheese, fruit, or nuts. You can visit a port-wine lodge to learn more about port—and, more important, to taste it. The best lodges to visit are concentrated in Vila Nova de Gaia, a suburb of Porto across the Douro from Porto’s commercial center. • Vinhos Verdes (pronounced veen-yosh vair-desh): These “green wines” are more lemony in color. Many come from the Minho district in northwest Portugal, which, like Galicia in the north of Spain, gets an abundance of rain. Cultivated in a humid atmosphere, the grapes are picked while young. Some wine aficionados don’t consider this wine serious, finding it too light. With its fruity flavor, it’s said to suggest the cool breezes of summer. It’s often served with fish, and many Portuguese use it as a thirst quencher in the way an American might consume a soft drink. The finest vinhos verdes are from Monção, just south of the river Minho. Those from Amarante are also praised. • Dão: Dão is produced from grapes grown just south of the Douro in the north’s mountainous heartland. “Our vines have tender grapes” goes the saying throughout the valleys of Mondego and Dão, each split by a river. Summers are fiery hot and winters wet, cold, and
often bitter. A lot of Dão wine is red, notably the vinhos maduros, matured in oak casks for nearly 2 years before being bottled. The wine is velvety in texture and often accompanies roasts. At almost every restaurant in Portugal, you’ll encounter either branco (white) or Dão tinto (red). The best bottles of red Dão wine are the reserve (“reserva” is printed on the label). Other names to look for include Porta dos Cavaleiros and Terras Altas. (No one seems to agree on how to pronounce the name— daw-ng, da-ow, or, least flattering, dung.) • Madeira: Grown from grapes rooted in the island’s volcanic soil, this wine traces its origins to 1419. Its history is similar to that of port, in that it was highly prized by aristocratic British families. George Washington was among the wine’s early admirers, although the Madeira he consumed little resembled the product bottled today. Modern Madeira wines are lighter and drier than the thick, sweet kinds favored by generations past. The wine, which is fortified and blended, includes such varieties as Malmsey, Malvasia, and Boal—sweet, heavy wines usually served with dessert or at the end of a meal. The less sweet Verdelho is often consumed as a light drink between meals, in much the same way that a Spaniard downs a glass of sherry. Dry and light, Sercial is best as an aperitif and is often served in Portugal with toasted and salted almonds. None of these wines is likely to be consumed with the main dish at dinner. BEER Cerveja (beer) is gaining new followers yearly. One of the best of the homebrews is sold under the name Sagres, honoring the town in the Algarve that enjoyed associations with Henry the Navigator.
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Planning Your Trip to Portugal This chapter addresses the where, when, and how of visiting Portugal—all the logistics of putting your trip together and taking it on the road.
1 W H E N TO G O CLIMATE “We didn’t know we had an April,” one Lisbon resident said, “until that song came out.” As a song and a season, “April in Portugal” is famous. Summer might be the most popular time to visit, but for the traveler who can chart his or her own course, spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit. To use a North American analogy, the climate of Portugal most closely parallels that of California. There are only slight fluctuations in temperature between summer and winter; the overall mean ranges from 77°F (25°C) in summer to about 58°F (14°C) in winter. The rainy season begins in November and usually lasts through January. Because of the Gulf Stream, Portugal’s northernmost area,
Minho, enjoys mild (albeit very rainy) winters, even though it’s at approximately the same latitude as New York City. Snow brings many skiing enthusiasts to the Serra de Estrela in north-central Portugal. For the most part, however, winter means only some rain and lower temperatures in other regions. The Algarve and especially Madeira enjoy temperate winters. Madeira, in fact, basks in its high season in winter. The Algarve, too, is somewhat of a winter Riviera that attracts sun worshipers from North America and Europe. Summers in both tend to be long, hot, clear, and dry. Lisbon and Estoril enjoy 46°F (8°C) to 65°F (18°C) temperatures in winter and temperatures between 60°F (16°C) and 82°F (28°C) in summer.
Average Daytime Temperature (°C & °F) & Monthly Rainfall (Inches) in Lisbon Temp.(°F) Temp.(°C) Rainfall
Jan 57 13.8 4.3
Feb 59 15 3.0
Mar 63 17.2 4.2
Apr May June July Aug Sept 67 71 77 81 82 79 19.4 21.6 25 27.2 27.7 26.1 2.1 1.7 .6 .1 .2 1.3
Oct Nov 72 63 22.2 17.2 2.4 3.7
Dec 58 14.4 4.1
PORTUGAL CALENDAR OF EVENTS We suggest that you verify the dates below with a tourist office because they can vary greatly from year to year. Sometimes last-minute adjustments are made because of scheduling problems. For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events. frommers.com, where you’ll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what’s happening in cities all over the world.
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J ANUARY Festa de São Gonçalo e São Cristovão, Vila Nova de Gaia, across the river from Porto. These resemble fertility rites and are two of the most attended religious festivals in Portugal. An image of São Gonçalo is paraded through the narrow streets as merrymakers beat drums. Boatmen along the Douro ferry a figure of São Cristovão with a huge head down the river. Much port wine is drunk, and cakes baked into phallic shapes are consumed by all. Call & 22/ 374-24-00 for more information. Early January. FEBRUARY TO A PRIL Carnaval (Mardi Gras), throughout the country, notably in Nazaré, Ovar, Loulé, and Funchal (Madeira). Each town has its unique way of celebrating this final festival before Lent. Masked marchers, flower-bedecked floats, and satirically decorated vehicles mark the occasion. Food and wine are consumed in abundance. For more details, check with the Portuguese National Tourist Office (see “Visitor Information” under “Fast Facts” in chapter 16). February or March. Easter, all over Portugal. Some of the most noteworthy festivities take place at Póvoa de Varzim, Ovar, and especially the town of Braga, where Holy Week processions feature masked marchers and bejeweled floats along with fireworks, folk dancing, and torch parades. For more details, check with the Portuguese National Tourist Office (see “Visitor Information” under “Fast Facts” in chapter 16). March or April. M AY Festas das Cruzes, Barcelos, on the river Cávado, near Braga. Since 1504, this festival has been celebrated with a Miracle of the Cross procession centered on a carpet made of millions
of flower petals. Women in colorful regional dress adorn themselves with large gold chains. A giant fireworks display on the river signals the festival’s end. Call & 25/381-18-82 for more information. Early May. First pilgrimage of the year to Fátima. In 1930, the bishop of Leiria authorized pilgrimages to this site. Today people from all over the world flock here to commemorate the first apparition of the Virgin to the little shepherd children in 1917. The year’s last pilgrimage is in October (see below). Make hotel reservations months in advance, or plan to stay in a neighboring town. For more information, call the Fátima tourist office (& 24/484-87-70; www.rt-leiriafatima. pt). Mid-May. J UNE Feira Nacional da Agricultura (also known as the Feira do Ribatejo), Santarém, north of Lisbon on the river Tagus. This is the most important agricultural fair in Portugal. The best horses and cattle from all provinces are on display, and horse shows and bullfights enliven the festival. Food pavilions feature various regional cuisines. For more information, call & 24/330-03-00. Early June. Feast of St. John, Porto, home of the famous port wine. Honoring São João (St. John), this colorful festival features bonfires, all-night singing and dancing, and processions of locals in colorful costumes. Call & 22/339-34-70 (www. portoturismo.pt) for more information. June 23 and 24. Festas dos Santos Populares, throughout Lisbon. Celebrations begin on June 13 and 14 in the Alfama, with feasts honoring Saint Anthony. Parades commemorating the city’s patron saint feature marchas (parading groups of singers and musicians) along Avenida
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A UGUST Feast of Our Lady of Monte, Madeira. On Assumption Eve and Day (Aug 14–15), the island’s most important religious festival begins with devout worship and climaxes in an outburst of fun. Music, dancing, eating, and general drinking and carousing last until dawn. For more information, call & 29/ 121-19-00. Festas da Senhora da Agonia, Viana do Castelo, at the mouth of the river Lima, north of Porto. The most spectacular festival in the north honors Our Lady of Suffering. A replica of the Virgin is carried through the streets over carpets of flowers. The bishop directs a procession of fishers to the sea to bless the boats. Float-filled parades mark the 5-day-and-night event as a time of revelry and celebration. A blaze of fireworks ends the festival. Call the tourist office (& 25/883-91-50) for exact dates, which vary from year to year. Reserve hotel rooms well in advance or be prepared to stay in a neighboring town. Mid-August. S EPTEMBER Romaria da Nossa Senhora de Nazaré, Nazaré, Portugal’s most famed fishing village. The event (Our Lady of Nazaré Festival) includes folk dancing, singing, and bullfights. The big attraction is the procession carrying the image of Nossa Senhora de Nazaré down to the sea. For more information, call & 26/255-0010. Early to mid-September.
3 PORTUGAL CALENDAR OF EVENTS
J ULY Colete Encarnado (Red Waistcoat), Vila Franca de Xira, north of Lisbon on the river Tagus. Like the more famous feria in Pamplona, Spain, this festival involves bulls running through narrow streets, followed by sensational bullfights in what aficionados consider the best bullring in Portugal. Fandango dancing and rodeo-style competition among the Ribatejo campinos (cowboys) mark the event. For more information, call & 26/328-56-00 (http://colete encarnado.no.sapo.pt). First or second Sunday in July. Estoril Festival. Outside Lisbon at the seaside resort of Estoril, this festival of classical music occupies two concert
halls that were built for the 500th anniversary of Columbus’s first voyage to the New World. For information, write Associação Internacional de Música da Costa do Estoril, Galerias Estoril, Rua de Lisboa, 5 Lj. 12, 2765-240 Estoril (& 21/468-51-99; fax 21/46856-07; www.estorilfestival.net). Early July to first week in August (dates vary).
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da Liberdade, and there is plenty of singing, dancing, drinking of wine, and eating of grilled sardines. On June 23 and 24, for the Feast of St. John the Baptist, bonfires brighten the night and participants jump over them. The night of the final celebration is the Feast of St. Peter on June 29. The Lisbon tourist office (& 21/031-27-00; www.visit lisboa.com) supplies details about where some of the events are staged, although much of the action is spontaneous. Mid-June to June 30. Festas do São Pedro, Montijo, near Lisbon. This festival honoring St. Peter has been held since medieval times. The final day features a blessing of the boats and a colorful procession. Grilled sardines are the main item on the menu. Bull breeders bring their beasts into town and release them through the streets to chase foolish young men, who are often permanently injured or killed. There are also bullfights. On the final night, participants observe the pagan rite of setting a skiff afire and offering it as a sacrifice to the river Tagus. Call & 21/031-27-00 for more information. Late June.
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O CTOBER Last Pilgrimage of the Year to Fátima, brings thousands of pilgrims from all over the world, who descend on Fátima to mark the occasion of the last
apparition of the Virgin, which is said to have occurred on October 12, 1917. Call & 24/484-87-70 for more information. October 13.
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2 E N T R Y R E Q U I R E M E N T S & C U S TO M S
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ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Visas are not needed by U.S., Canadian, Irish, Australian, New Zealand, or British citizens for visits of less than 3 months. You do need a valid passport unless you’re a citizen of another E.U. country (in which case, you need only an identity card, although we always recommend that you carry a passport anyway). Safeguard your passport in an inconspicuous, inaccessible place like a money belt. If you lose it, visit the nearest consulate of your native country as soon as possible for a replacement.
PASSPORTS For information on how to get a passport, go to “Passports” in the “Fast Facts: Portugal” section, later in this chapter—the websites listed provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing passport applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the “Foreign Entry Requirement” Web page of the U.S. Department of State at http://travel.state.gov.
MEDICAL REQUIREMENTS For information on medical requirements and recommendations, see “Health,” p. 48.
CUSTOMS You can take into Portugal most personal effects and the following items duty-free: a portable typewriter and one video camera or two still cameras with 10 rolls of film
each; a portable radio, a tape recorder, and a laptop PC per person, provided that they show signs of use; 200 cigarettes, or 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco; 2 liters of wine or 1 liter of liquor per person over 17 years old; and sports equipment, including fishing gear, one bicycle, skis, tennis or squash racquets, and golf clubs. Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for 48 hours or more are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, $800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You’ll be charged a flat rate of duty on the next $1,000 worth of purchases. Any dollar amount beyond that is subject to duty at whatever rates apply. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is $200. Be sure to have your receipts or purchases handy to expedite the declaration process. Note: If you owe duty, you are required to pay on your arrival in the United States, using cash, personal check, government or traveler’s check, or money order; some locations also accept Visa or MasterCard. To avoid having to pay duty on foreignmade personal items you owned before your trip, bring along a bill of sale, insurance policy, jeweler’s appraisal, or receipt of purchase. Or you can register items that can be readily identified by a permanently affixed serial number or marking—think laptop computers, cameras, and CD players—with Customs before you leave. Take the items to the nearest Customs office, or register them with Customs at the airport from which you’re departing. You’ll receive, at no cost, a Certificate of Registration, which allows duty-free entry for the life of the item.
3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GETTING THERE By Plane Flying from New York to Lisbon typically costs less than from New York to Paris,
Amsterdam, or Frankfurt. The key to bargain airfares is to shop around. Flying time from New York to Lisbon is about 61⁄2 hours; from Atlanta to Lisbon
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consulates or Customs offices is “Know Before You Go.” For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at & 1300/ 363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au. U.K. citizens returning from a non-E.U. country have a Customs allowance of 200 cigarettes; 50 cigars; 250 grams of smoking tobacco; 2 liters of still table wine; 1 liter of spirits or strong liqueurs (over 22% volume); 2 liters of fortified wine, sparkling wine or other liqueurs; 60cc (ml) perfume; 250cc (ml) of toilet water; and £145 worth of all other goods, including gifts and souvenirs. People under 17 cannot have the tobacco or alcohol allowance. For more information, contact HM Revenue & Customs at & 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmrc.gov.uk. The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens over 17 can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture of all three if their combined weight doesn’t exceed 250g), plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or 1.125 liters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export listing the valuables you are taking out of the country; that way, you can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: “New Zealand Customs Guide for Travelers, Notice no. 4.” For more information, contact New Zealand Customs Service, The Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (& 09/ 300-5399 or 0800/428-786 in New Zealand; www.customs.govt.nz).
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With some exceptions, you cannot bring fresh fruits and vegetables into the U.S. For specifics on what you can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet “Know Before You Go” online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on “Travel,” then click on “Know Before You Go! Online Brochure.”) Or contact U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (& 877/CBP-5511 [227-5511]) and request the pamphlet. For a clear summary of Canadian rules, request the booklet “I Declare,” issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (& 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/ 983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). Canada allows its citizens a C$750 exemption, and you’re allowed to bring back duty-free one carton of cigarettes, one can of tobacco, 40 imperial ounces of liquor, and 50 cigars. In addition, you’re allowed to mail gifts to Canada from abroad valued at less than C$60 a day, provided they’re unsolicited and don’t contain alcohol or tobacco (write on the package “Unsolicited gift, under $60 value”). All valuables, including serial numbers of valuables you already own, such as expensive foreign cameras, should be declared on the Y-38 form before departure from Canada. Note: The C$750 exemption can only be used once a year and only after an absence of 7 days. The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$900 or, for those under 18, A$450. Citizens can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 1,125 milliliters of alcohol. If you’re returning with valuables you already own, such as foreignmade cameras, you should file form B263. A helpful brochure available from Australian
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Avoiding “Economy-Class Syndrome”
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Deep-vein thrombosis, or as it’s known in the world of flying, “economy-class syndrome,” is a blood clot that develops in a deep vein. It’s a potentially deadly condition that can be caused by sitting in cramped conditions—such as an airplane cabin—for too long. During a flight (especially a long-haul flight), get up, walk around, and stretch your legs every 60 to 90 minutes to keep your blood flowing. Other preventive measures include frequent flexing of the legs while sitting, drinking lots of water, and avoiding alcohol and sleeping pills. If you have a history of deep-vein thrombosis, heart disease, or another condition that puts you at high risk, some experts recommend wearing compression stockings or taking anticoagulants when you fly; always ask your physician about the best course for you. Symptoms of deep-vein thrombosis include leg pain or swelling, or even shortness of breath.
(with a stopover), it’s 12 hours; from Los Angeles to Lisbon (with a stopover), it’s 15 hours; and from Montreal or Toronto, it’s 8 hours. MAJOR AIRLINES When it was established in 1946, TAP (& 800/221-7370; www.tap-airportugal.us), the national airline of Portugal, flew only between Lisbon and Angola and Mozambique (then Portuguese colonies). Today TAP flies to four continents and has one of the youngest fleets in the airline industry—its aircraft have an average age of only 4 years. Its U.S. gateway is Newark, New Jersey. In Portugal, it flies to nine destinations, the most popular of which are Lisbon, Porto, and Faro. Continental Airlines (& 800/2310856 in the U.S.; www.continental.com) began flying to Lisbon from Newark International Airport in 1997. The increased capacity comes as a welcome addition to existing air service, particularly during heavy travel periods in summer. Air Canada (& 888/247-2262 in the U.S. or Canada; www.aircanada.com) no longer offers direct flights to Lisbon, but it does offer daily flights from Toronto and Montreal to Paris, where you can transfer to another carrier to reach Lisbon.
For flights from the U.K., contact British Airways (& 0844/493-0787; www. britishairways.com) or TAP (& 020/ 8745-7562; www.tap-airportugal.com). Or contact the budget carriers easyJet (& 0905/821-0905; www.easyjet.com), which flies daily to Lisbon from both Gatwick and Luton airports in the U.K., or Ryanair, which flies from London’s Stansted Airport to Porto, Portugal’s second city. Flights are daily; check www. ryanair.com or call & 0818/30-30-30 for info. TAP also has frequent flights on popular routes from major cities in western Europe. Its flights to Lisbon from London are an especially good deal; sometimes they’re priced so attractively that one might combine a sojourn in England with an inexpensive side excursion to Portugal. TAP gives passengers the option of stopping midway across the Atlantic in the Azores, and it makes baggage transfers and seat reservations on connecting flights within Portugal much easier. REGULAR FARES All airlines divide their calendar year into three seasons— basic, shoulder, and peak—whose dates might vary slightly from airline to airline. TAP’s basic season is November 1 to
Getting Through the Airport With the federalization of airport security, security procedures at U.S. airports are more stable and consistent than ever. Generally, you’ll be fine if you arrive at the airport 1 hour before a domestic flight and 2 hours before an international flight; if you show up late, tell an airline employee and he or she will probably whisk you to the front of the line. Bring a current, government-issued photo ID such as a driver’s license or passport, and if you’ve got an e-ticket, print the official confirmation page; you’ll need to show your confirmation at the security checkpoint and show your ID at the ticket counter or the gate. (Children
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fare, depending on the season, between New York or Boston and Lisbon. Tickets of this type can be purchased only at the last minute because they can be booked only within 72 hours of departure. Youth fares are offered only to travelers ages 12 to 24 and only if space is available. They cannot be mailed and must be purchased in person at a travel agent or any TAP counter. None of the above options takes into account promotional fares airlines might initiate while you’re planning your trip. These are usually particularly attractive during the basic season. Clients who prefer not to specify when they’ll return home, or who can’t purchase their tickets within 21 days before takeoff, usually opt for TAP’s excursion fare. It costs more than either APEX option but has no restrictions on advance purchases or time of travel. The airline’s most exclusive and most expensive class of service is named after the seafaring pioneers who spread Portugal’s empire throughout the world. Navigator Class passengers benefit from better service and upgraded food and drink. This is TAP’s version of business class, comparable to first class on other major carriers.
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December 14 and December 25 to March 31. The most expensive season is its peak season from June 1 to September 15, when passengers tend to solidly book most transatlantic flights. Other dates are shoulder season. DISCOUNTED FARES All the major carriers offer an APEX ticket, generally the cheapest transatlantic option. Usually such a ticket must be purchased 14 to 21 days in advance, and a stay in Europe must last at least 7 days but not more than 30. Changing the date of departure from North America within 21 days of departure sometimes entails a penalty of around $150; with some tickets, no changes of any kind are permitted. A more flexible (but more expensive) option is the regular economy fare. This ticket offers the same seating and services as the APEX ticket for a shorter stay than the 7-day APEX minimum requirement. One of the most attractive side benefits of an economy-class ticket is the absolute freedom to make last-minute changes in flight dates and unrestricted stopovers. For families, one strong attraction of TAP is that infants under 2 years pay 10% of the adult fare. (About a half-dozen bassinets are available on transatlantic flights, allowing parents to lift infants off their laps onto specially designed brackets during certain segments of the flight.) Children under 12 pay 75% of the adult price for most categories of tickets. TAP offers a winter senior citizen fare from its three U.S. gateways to anywhere in Portugal. The discount is 10% off published fares. The discount applies for seniors (travelers 62 years of age or older) plus a companion of any age (spouse, grandchild, or friend). The maximum stay abroad with this type of ticket is 2 months. Tickets must be purchased at least 14 days before departure. Subject to change, TAP offers a oneway youth fare. It’s 50% off the regular
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under 18 do not need photo IDs for domestic flights, but the adults checking in with them do.) Security lines are getting shorter than they were during 2001 and 2002, but some doozies remain. If you have trouble standing for long periods of time, tell an airline employee; the airline will provide a wheelchair. Speed up security by not wearing metal objects such as big belt buckles or clanky earrings. If you’ve got metallic body parts, a note from your doctor can prevent a long chat with the security screeners. Keep in mind that only ticketed passengers are allowed past security, except for folks escorting passengers with disabilities or children. Federalization has stabilized what you can carry on and what you can’t. The general rule is that sharp things are out, nail clippers are okay, but lighters of any kind may not be carried, nor may they be checked in your luggage. Bring food in your carry-on rather than checking it because explosive-detection machines used on checked luggage have been known to mistake food (especially chocolate, for some reason) for bombs. Travelers in the U.S. are allowed one carry-on bag, plus a “personal item” such as a purse, briefcase, or laptop bag. Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag; as long as it has a laptop in it, it’s still considered a personal item. The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has issued a list of restricted items; check its website (www. tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel/prohibited/ permitted-prohibited-items.shtm) for details. In 2003, the TSA phased out gate check-in at all U.S. airports. Passengers with e-tickets and without checked bags can still beat the ticket-counter lines by using electronic kiosks or even online check-in. Ask your airline which alternatives are available; if you’re using a kiosk, bring the credit card you used to book the ticket. If you’re checking bags, you will still be able to use most airlines’ kiosks;
again, call your airline for up-to-date information. Curbside check-in is also a good way to avoid lines, although a few airlines still ban curbside check-in entirely; call before you go. Airport screeners may decide that your checked luggage needs to be searched by hand. You can now purchase luggage locks that allow screeners to open and re-lock a checked bag if hand-searching is necessary. Look for Travel Sentry certified locks at luggage or travel shops and Brookstone stores (you can buy them online at www. brookstone.com). These locks, approved by the TSA, can be opened by luggage inspectors with a special code or key. For more information on the locks, visit www. travelsentry.org. If you use something other than TSA-approved locks, your lock will be cut off your suitcase if a TSA agent needs to hand-search your luggage. Flying for Less: Tips for Getting the Best Airfare • Passengers who can book their ticket either long in advance or at the last minute, or who fly midweek or at lesstrafficked hours may pay a fraction of the full fare. If your schedule is flexible, say so, and ask if you can secure a cheaper fare by changing your flight plans. • Search the Internet for cheap fares. The most popular online travel agencies are Travelocity.com (www.travelocity. co.uk); Expedia.com (www.expedia. co.uk and www.expedia.ca); and Orbitz.com. In the U.K., go to Travelsupermarket (& 0845/345-5708; www. travelsupermarket.com), a flight search engine that offers flight comparisons for the budget airlines whose seats often end up in bucket-shop sales. Other websites for booking airline tickets online include Cheapflights.com, SmarterTravel.com, Priceline.com, and Opodo (www.opodo.co.uk). Meta search sites (which find and then direct
Long-Haul Flights: How to Stay Comfortable • Your choice of airline and airplane will definitely affect your legroom. Find more details about U.S. airlines at www.seatguru.com. For international airlines, the research firm Skytrax has posted a list of average seat pitches at www.airlinequality.com. • Emergency exit seats and bulkhead seats typically have the most legroom. Emergency exit seats are usually left unassigned until the day of a flight (to ensure that someone able-bodied fills the seats); it’s worth getting to the ticket counter early to snag one of these spots for a long flight. Many passengers find
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book trips to places that U.S. travel agents won’t touch, such as Cuba. • Join frequent-flier clubs. Frequentflier membership doesn’t cost a cent, but it does entitle you to free tickets or upgrades when you amass the airline’s required number of frequent-flier points. You don’t even have to fly to earn points; frequent-flier credit cards can earn you thousands of miles for doing your everyday shopping. But keep in mind that award seats are limited, seats on popular routes are hard to snag, and more and more major airlines are cutting their expiration periods for mileage points—so check your airline’s frequent-flier program so you don’t lose your miles before you use them. Inside tip: Award seats are offered almost a year in advance, but seats also open up at the last minute, so if your travel plans are flexible, you may strike gold. To play the frequent-flier game to your best advantage, consult the community bulletin boards on FlyerTalk (www.flyer talk.com) or go to Randy Petersen’s Inside Flyer (www.insideflyer.com). Petersen and friends review all the programs in detail and post regular updates on changes in policies and trends.
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you to airline and hotel websites for booking) include Sidestep.com and Kayak.com—the latter includes fares for budget carriers like JetBlue and Spirit as well as the major airlines. Site59.com is a great source for lastminute flights and getaways. In addition, most airlines offer online-only fares that even their phone agents know nothing about. • Keep an eye on local newspapers for promotional specials or fare wars, when airlines lower prices on their most popular routes. • Consolidators, also known as bucket shops, are wholesale brokers in the airline-ticket game. Consolidators buy deeply discounted tickets (“distressed” inventories of unsold seats) from airlines and sell them to online ticket agencies, travel agents, tour operators, corporations, and, to a lesser degree, the general public. Consolidators advertise in Sunday newspaper travel sections (often in small ads with tiny type), both in the U.S. and the U.K. They can be great sources for cheap international tickets. On the downside, bucket shop tickets are often rigged with restrictions, such as stiff cancellation penalties (as high as 50–75% of the ticket price). And keep in mind that most of what you see advertised is of limited availability. Several reliable consolidators are worldwide and available online. STA Travel (www.statravel.com) has been the world’s leading consolidator for students since purchasing Council Travel, but their fares are competitive for travelers of all ages. Flights.com (& 201/541-3826; www.flights.com) has excellent fares worldwide, particularly to Europe. They also have “local” websites in 12 countries. Air Tickets Direct (& 888/858-8884; www. airticketsdirect.com) is based in Montreal and therefore are a good bet when the Canadian dollar is weak; they also
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•
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that bulkhead seating (the row facing the wall at the front of the cabin) offers more legroom, but keep in mind that bulkheads are where airlines often put baby bassinets, so you may be sitting next to an infant. To have two seats for yourself in a threeseat row, try for an aisle seat in a center section toward the back of coach. If you’re traveling with a companion, book an aisle and a window seat. Middle seats are usually booked last, so chances are good you’ll end up with three seats to yourselves. Ask about entertainment options. Many airlines offer seat-back video systems where you get to choose your movies or play video games—but only on some of their planes. (Boeing 777s are your best bet.) To sleep, avoid the last row of any section or the row in front of an emergency exit, as these seats are the least likely to recline. Avoid seats near highly trafficked toilet areas. Avoid seats in the back of many jets—these can be narrower than those in the rest of coach. You also may want to reserve a window seat so you can rest your head and avoid being bumped in the aisle. Get up, walk around, and stretch every 60 to 90 minutes to keep your blood flowing. See the box “Avoiding ‘Economy-Class Syndrome,’” under “Health & Safety,” p. 36. Drink water before, during, and after your flight to combat the lack of humidity in airplane cabins. Avoid alcohol, which will dehydrate you. If you’re flying with kids, don’t forget to carry on toys, books, pacifiers, and chewing gum to help them relieve ear pressure buildup during ascent and descent.
By Train Thousands of traveling Brits (and foreigners visiting the U.K.) cross France and Spain by rail to begin their Portuguese
holiday. If you opt for this, expect lots of worthwhile scenery, and be aware that you’ll have to change trains in Paris. Trains from London originate in Waterloo Station, pass through the Channel Tunnel, and arrive in Paris at Gare du Nord. Don’t expect to merely cross over a railway platform to change trains: You’ll have to traverse urban Paris, moving from Gare du Nord to Gare Montparnasse. You can do this for the cost of a Métro ticket, but if you have luggage, hiring a taxi makes the transit a lot easier. (Taxis line up near your point of arrival.) From Gare Montparnasse, the train continues through France but requires a change of equipment in Hendaye, on the Spanish-French border. It continues to Lisbon’s Sta. Apolónia station. Total travel time for this itinerary is 22 hours, so we strongly recommend reserving a couchette (sleeping car). Budgeteers can save about 10% off fares by taking a slower, less convenient ferry across the English Channel. However, this option adds at least 5 hours, additional transfers, and many hassles at the docks on either side of the water, and will involve you in imbroglios that probably aren’t worth the savings. From Paris, the most luxurious way to reach Portugal is by the overnight ParisMadrid Talgo express train. It leaves from Gare d’Austerlitz and arrives in Madrid’s Chamartín Station, where you transfer to the Lisboa Express. In Madrid, the Lusitania Express leaves the Atocha Station at 10:45pm and arrives in Lisbon at 8:15am; the 11pm train arrives in Lisbon at 8:40am. For more complete information about rail connections, contact Caminhos de Ferro Portuguêses, Calçada do Duque 20, 1249 Lisboa (& 21/102-30-00; www. cp.pt in Lisbon). If you plan much travel on European railroads, get the latest copy of the Thomas Cook European Timetable of Railroads. This 500-plus-page book documents all of
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Other passes include Eurail Global Pass Flexi, allowing you to choose either 10 or 15 days of unlimited travel in 18 European countries, including Switzerland, within a 2-month period. In first class, $811 gets you 10 days of travel in 2 months, rising to $1,066 for 15 days in 2 months. Children 4 to 11 pay half the adult fare. If you’re under 26, you can avail yourself of a Eurail Global Pass Youth Flexi. In second class, you get 10 days of travel in 2 months for $529, or 15 days in 2 months for $693. For that you get to travel in 18 European countries, including Portugal. Portuguese Railpass offers any 3 days in a month for $135, or 4 days in a month for $172. This pass is good for unlimited first-class travel. The Spain ’n Portugal Saverpass, good for both Portugal and Spain, offers any 3 days of unlimited first-class train travel in a 2-month period for $295 (children 4–11 pay half fare on any of these discount passes). WHERE TO BUY RAIL PASSES Travel agents in all towns and railway agents in major North American cities sell all these tickets, but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe (& 877/272-RAIL [7245] in the U.S. for information; & 0870/584-8848 for reservations from the U.K.; www. raileurope.com). Your best deal is to book with the 0870 number in England. If you reserve at least 7 days in advance, you get various reductions. Many different rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Britain and continental Europe. Stop in at the International Rail Centre, Victoria Station, London SW1V 1JY (& 0870/5848848 in the U.K.). Some of the most popular passes, including Inter-Rail and Euro Youth, are offered only to travelers under 26 years of age; these allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries.
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Europe’s main passenger rail services with detail and accuracy. It’s available on the Web at www.thomascooktimetables.com. EURAILPASSES The Eurailpass is one of Europe’s greatest bargains, permitting unlimited first-class rail travel through 17 countries in Europe, including Portugal. Passes are for periods as short as 15 days or as long as 3 months and are strictly nontransferable. The Eurail Global Pass allows you unlimited travel in 18 Eurail-affiliated countries. You can travel on any of the days within the validity period, which is available for 15 days, 21 days, 1 month, 2 months, 3 months, and some other possibilities as well. Prices for first-class adult travel are $687 for 15 days, $890 for 21 days, $1,106 for 1 month, $1,561 for 2 months, and $1,926 for 3 months. Children 4 to 11 pay half fare; those 3 and under travel for free. A Eurail Global Pass Saver, also valid for first-class travel in 18 countries, offers a special deal for two or more people traveling together. This pass costs $582 for 15 days, $756 for 21 days, $939 for 1 month, $1,327 for 2 months, and $1,643 for 3 months. A Eurail Global Youth Pass for those 12 to 25 allows second-class travel in 18 countries. This pass costs $446 for 15 days, $578 for 21 days, $720 for 1 month, $1,016 for 2 months, and $1,255 for 3 months. Eurail Selectpass: This pass offers unlimited travel on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five bordering countries out of the 22 Eurail nations linked by train or ship. Two or more passengers can travel together for big discounts, getting 5, 6, 8, 10, or 15 days of rail travel within any 2-month period on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five adjoining Eurail countries linked by train or ship. A sample fare: for 5 days in 2 months you pay $435 for three countries.
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GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
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By Bus There is no convenient bus service from other parts of Europe to Portugal. Flying, driving, and traveling by rail are the preferred transport methods. However, the buses that do make the trip—say, from London or France—offer somewhat lower prices (and less comfort) than equivalent journeys by rail. The largest bus line in Europe, Eurolines Ltd., 52 Grosvenor Gardens, London SW1W 0UA (& 08717/818-177; www.eurolines.com), operates bus routes to Portugal that stop at several places in France (including Paris) and Spain along the way. Buses leave from London’s Victoria Coach Station daily, travel by ferry across the English Channel, and arrive in Lisbon 37 hours later. Tickets from London to Lisbon cost £83 to £110 one-way and £188 round-trip. Eurolines also offers service from London’s Victoria Coach Station to Faro, in southern Portugal, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 10pm. Arrival is 2 days later, after multiple stops and delays.
By Boat BY FERRY Brittany Ferries operates from Plymouth, England, to Santander, Spain. From March through November, crossing time is 23 to 24 hours. Between October and April, the trip takes 30 to 33 hours. Contact Brittany Ferries, Millbay Docks, Plymouth, England PL1 3EW (& 0871/244-0744; www.brittany-ferries. co.uk), for exact schedules and more information. From Santander, you can drive west to Galicia, in Spain, and then head south toward Portugal, entering through the Minho district.
GETTING AROUND By Car Many scenic parts of Portugal are isolated from train or bus stations, so it’s necessary to have a private car to do serious touring. That way, you’re on your own, unhindered
by the somewhat fickle train and bus timetables, which often limit your excursions to places close to the beaten track. Portugal has few superhighways, and they’re often interrupted by lengthy stretches of traffic-clogged single-lane thoroughfares. The roads, however, provide access to hard-to-reach gems and undiscovered villages. RENTALS Three of North America’s major car-rental companies maintain dozens of branches at each of Portugal’s most popular commercial and tourist centers, at rates that are usually competitive. Budget (& 800/472-3325 in the U.S.; www.budget.com) has offices in more than a dozen locations in Portugal. The most central and most used are in Lisbon, Faro (the heart of the Algarve), Porto, Praia da Rocha (also a popular Algarve destination), and Madeira. Because Portugal has one of the highest accident rates in Europe, you should seriously think about buying the optional CDW (collision-damage waiver) insurance. Note that some North American credit card issuers, especially American Express, sometimes agree to pay any financial obligations incurred after an accident involving a client’s rented car, but only if the imprint of the card is on the original rental contract. Because of this agreement, some clients opt to decline the extra insurance coverage offered by the car-rental company. To be sure that you qualify for this free insurance, check in advance with your card issuer. Know that even though the card’s issuer might eventually reimburse you, you’ll still have to fill out some complicated paperwork and usually advance either cash or a credit or charge card deposit to cover the repair cost. Avis (& 800/331-1084 in the U.S.; www.avis.com) maintains offices in downtown Lisbon and at the airport, and at 17 other locations throughout Portugal. One office is at Avenida Praia Da Victoria, Lisbon (& 21/351-45-60).
Road Maps Michelin publishes the best Portugal road maps, and they’re available at many stores and map shops throughout Europe and in the U.S. and Canada. Or you can order them from Michelin, P.O. Box 19008,
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3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
should note that ever-changing gas prices are much higher than you’re probably used to paying, and gas is measured in liters. DRIVER’S LICENSES U.S. and Canadian driver’s licenses are valid in Portugal. But if you’re at least 18 and touring other destinations in Europe by car, you should probably invest in an international driver’s permit. In the United States, apply through any local branch of the American Automobile Association (AAA); for a list of local branches, contact the national headquarters, 1000 AAA Dr., Heathrow, FL 32746-5063 (& 800/222-1134; www. aaa.com). Include two 2×2-inch photographs, a $10 fee, and a photocopy of your state driver’s license. In Canada, you pay C$10 and apply to the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA), 2525 Carling Ave., Ottawa, ON K2B 7Z2 (& 613/8201890; www.caa.ca). Note that your international driver’s license is valid only if it’s accompanied by an authorized license from your home state or province. In Portugal, as elsewhere in Europe, to drive a car legally you must have in your possession an international insurance certificate, known as a Green Card (Carte Verte or Carte Verde). The car-rental agency will provide you with one as part of your rental contract. DRIVING RULES Continental driving rules apply in Portugal, and international road symbols and signs are used. Wearing safety belts is compulsory. Speed limits are 90kmph (56 mph) on main roads, and 60kmph (37 mph) in heavily populated or built-up sections. On the limited number of express highways, the speed limit is 120kmph (74 mph).
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Hertz (& 800/654-3001 in the U.S.; www.hertz.com) has about two dozen locations in Portugal and requires a 3-day advance booking for its lowest rates. Hertz’s main office is at Rua Castilho 72, Lisbon (& 21/381-24-30). Kemwel Drive Group (& 877/8200668; www.kemwel.com), sometimes offers a viable alternative to more traditional car-rental companies. Kemwel leases entire blocks of cars a year in advance at locations throughout Portugal and then rents them back out to qualified customers who pay the entire price in advance. In Portugal, cars can be retrieved in Lisbon. Auto Europe (& 800/223-5555; www. autoeurope.com) leases cars on an asneeded basis from larger car-rental companies throughout Europe. Its rates sometimes are less than those at Hertz and Avis. PACKAGE DEALS Many packages are available that include airfare, accommodations, and a rental car with unlimited mileage. Compare these prices with the cost of booking airline tickets and renting a car separately to see if these offers are good deals. WEB RENTALS Internet resources can make comparison shopping easier. Microsoft Expedia (www.expedia.com) and Travelocity (www.travelocity.com) help you compare prices and locate car-rental bargains from various companies nationwide. They will even make your reservation for you once you’ve found the best deal. GASOLINE Gasoline (petrol, to the British) stations are now plentiful throughout Portugal. However, if you wander far off the beaten track, it’s always wise to have a full tank and to get a refill whenever it’s available, even if your tank is still more than half full. The government clamps price controls on gas, and it should cost the same everywhere. Credit cards are frequently accepted at gas stations, at least along the principal express routes. You
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Greenville, SC 29602-9008 (& 866/8666605 in the U.S.) The maps are updated every year; always try to obtain the latest copy because Portugal’s roads are undergoing tremendous changes. One of the best Michelin maps to Portugal is no. 440 (on a scale of 1:400,000, or 1 inch = 9.8km/ 6 miles). BREAKDOWNS If you rent your car from one of the large companies, such as Avis or Hertz, 24-hour breakdown service is available in Portugal. If you’re a member of a major automobile club, such as AA, CAA, or AAA, you can get aid from the Automóvel Club de Portugal (ACP; & 808/502-502; www.acp.pt). HITCHHIKING No law against hitchhiking exists here, but it isn’t commonly practiced. If you decide to hitchhike, do so with discretion. Usually Portuguese auto insurance doesn’t cover hitchhikers. Considering the potential danger to both the passenger and the driver, hitchhiking is not recommended.
By Plane Portugal is a small country, and flying from one place to another is relatively easy. Though most people still take trains to get around, TAP Air Portugal flies four times a day to Faro, in the Algarve, and Porto, the main city of the north. Service to Faro is likely to be more frequent in July and August. Four flights a day depart for Funchal, capital of Madeira, plus limited service to the Azores. For more information, contact TAP Air Portugal, Gare Do Oriente, 1200 Lisboa (& 21/841-50-00; www.tap-airportugal. pt).
By Train The Portuguese railway system is underdeveloped compared to those of the more industrialized nations of western Europe. Still, there are connections between the capital and more than 20 major towns. Express trains run from Lisbon, Coimbra
(the university city), and Porto. Electric trains, which leave from the Lisbon waterfront, travel along the Costa do Sol (Estoril and Cascais) and on to Queluz and Sintra. At Lisbon’s Santa Apolónia Station, you can make connections for international service and the Northern and Eastern lines. The Rossio Station serves Sintra and the Western line; the Cais do Sodré Station handles service for the Costa do Sol resorts of Estoril and Cascais. Finally, trains leave from the Sul e Sueste Station for the Alentejo and the Algarve. In summer, express trains depart Lisbon for the Algarve Monday through Saturday. They leave from the Barreiro Station (across the Tagus—take one of the frequently departing ferries). Off-season service runs four times weekly. For information about rail travel in Portugal, phone & 808/208-208 in Lisbon, or check the Portuguese Railways website at www.cp.pt. Railroad information and tickets for travel between almost any two stations in Europe, including stations throughout Portugal, are available from the representatives of the Portuguese National Railway, Rail Europe, Inc. (& 800/848-7245 in the U.S.; www.raileurope.com). The telephone representatives sell one-way and round-trip tickets into or out of Portugal, tickets for travel within Portugal, and rail passes for travel within Portugal and the rest of Europe. Couchettes (sleeping cars) can be arranged. See “Getting There,” earlier, for information on rail passes. SENIOR DISCOUNTS The Portuguese National Railway’s 50% discount policy applies for people 65 and older. These tickets are good all year.
By Bus This is a cheap means of transportation in Portugal. A network of buses links almost all the major towns and cities. Many routes originate in Lisbon. The former
national bus company, Rodoviária Nacional (& 969/50-20-50; www.rede-expressos. pt), has been privatized but essentially offers the same service as before. In addition, there are local and private regional bus links.
Express coaches between major cities are called expressos. Once in most cities and towns, you can take cheap bus rides to nearby villages or sights. Of course, in many towns and all cities, you can take buses to get around within the city.
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4 M O N E Y & CO S T S That proves to the Portuguese Customs Office that the currency came from outside the country, and it allows you to take out the same amount or less.
EURO CURRENCY The euro, the new single European currency, became the official currency of Portugal and 11 other countries on January 1, 1999, but not in the form of cash. On January 1, 2002, euro bank notes and
The Value of the Euro vs. Other Popular Currencies
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Portugal is no longer the bargain basement of Europe that it was in the ’60s and ’70s. Prices more and more have moved into alignment with the other European Union countries, but it‘s cheaper than neighboring Spain and much less expensive than the countries of the north, especially Scandinavia. There are no limits on foreign currency brought into Portugal, but visitors are advised to declare the amount carried.
3
US$
UK£
CD$
AUS$
NZ$
1
1.30
0.90
1.60
1.90
2.50
2
2.60
1.80
3.20
3.80
5.00
3
3.90
2.70
4.80
5.70
7.50
4
5.20
3.60
6.40
7.60
10.00
5
6.50
4.50
8.00
9.50
12.50
10
13.00
9.00
16.00
19.00
25.00
15
19.50
13.50
24.00
28.50
37.50
20
26.00
18.00
32.00
38.00
50.00
50
65.00
45.00
80.00
95.00
125.00
100
130.00
90.00
160.00
190.00
250.00
150
195.00
135.00
240.00
285.00
375.00
200
260.00
180.00
320.00
380.00
500.00
250
325.00
225.00
400.00
475.00
625.00
300
390.00
270.00
480.00
570.00
750.00
350
455.00
315.00
560.00
665.00
875.00
400
520.00
360.00
640.00
760.00
1,000.00
500
650.00
450.00
800.00
950.00
1,250.00
1,000
1,300.00
900.00
1,600.00
1,900.00
2,500.00
M O N E Y & CO S T S
Euro (€)
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M O N E Y & CO S T S
3
What Things Cost in Lisbon
Euro €
Taxi from the airport to central Lisbon Bus fare from airport to central Lisbon Basic bus or tram fare Double room at Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon (very expensive) Double room at Fontana Park (moderate) Double room at Dom Carlos Park (moderate) Double room at Jorge V Hotel (inexpensive) Lunch for one, without wine, at A Gondola (moderate) Lunch for one, without wine, at Telheiro (inexpensive) Dinner for one, without wine, at Casa de Comida (very expensive) Dinner for one, without wine, at Restaurante Lapa (expensive) Dinner for one, without wine, at Doca Peixe (moderate) Dinner for one, without wine, at Cervejaria Brilhante (inexpensive) Bottle of beer in a cafe Cup of coffee in a cafe Admission to Castelo de São Jorge Average theater ticket
coins were introduced. During a 2-month transition period, escudo notes, the old currency of Portugal, were withdrawn from circulation. The symbol of the euro is €; its official abbreviation is EUR. It’s a good idea to exchange at least some money—just enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel—before you leave home (though don’t expect the exchange rate to be ideal), so you can avoid lines at airport ATMs (automated teller machines). Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted below were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www. oanda.com/convert/classic to check upto-the-minute rates.
12.00 3.50 1.40 355.00 185.00 138.00 79.00 28.00 10.00 65.00 50.00 35.00 24.00 2.50–5.00 2.00 5.00 7.50–16.00
The Euro and the U.S. Dollar: At the time of this writing, 1€ was worth approximately $1.30. Inversely stated, $1 was worth approximately 76 eurocents. The Euro and the British Pound: At the time of this writing 1€ was worth approximately 90 pence. Inversely stated, 1£ was worth approximately €1.11. The Euro and the Canadian dollar: At the time of this writing, 1€ was worth approximately CD$1.60. Inversely stated, CD$1 was worth approximately 63 eurocents. The Euro and the Australian dollar: At the time of this writing, 1€ was worth approximately AUS$1.90. Inversely stated, 1AUS$ equaled approximately 52 eurocents.
The Euro and the New Zealand dollar: At the time of this writing, 1€ was worth approximately 2.5 NZD. Inversely stated, 1 NZD equaled approximately 39 eurocents.
ATMS
Some credit card companies recommend that you notify them of any impending trip abroad so that they don’t become suspicious when the card is used numerous times in a foreign destination and block your charges. Even if you don’t call your credit card company in advance, you can always call the card company if a charge is refused. Keep in mind that toll-free numbers listed on the back of the card can’t be dialed from Portugal—a good reason to find out the company’s standard toll number. Perhaps the most important lesson here is to carry more than one card with you on your trip; a card might not work for any number of reasons, so having a backup is the smart way to go.
3 M O N E Y & CO S T S
Dear Visa: I’m Off to Portugal!
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The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM, sometimes referred to as a “cash machine,” or a “cashpoint.” The Cirrus (& 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (& 800/ 843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe. Go to your bank card’s website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your Personal Identification Number (PIN) and your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank’s ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they’re rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank. Note: Banks that are members of the Global ATM Alliance charge no transaction fees for cash withdrawals at other Alliance member ATMs; these include Bank of America, Scotiabank (Canada,
Caribbean, and Mexico), Barclays (U.K. and parts of Africa), Deutsche Bank (Germany, Poland, Spain, and Italy), and BNP Paribus (France). ATM cards are plentiful in Portugal, even in small towns, but especially in Lisbon and Porto. There is a typical surcharge of $1 to $5 per withdrawal. Debit cards function almost like an ATM card. Throughout Portugal such a card can be used to withdraw money from associated banks or scattered ATMs. It’s always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler’s checks. You should also exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home, or withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM. In many international destinations, ATMs offer the best exchange rates. Avoid exchanging money at commercial exchange bureaus and hotels, which often have the highest transaction fees. Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www. oanda.com classic to check up-to-theminute rates.
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Major Change in Credit Cards
H E A LT H
3
Chip and PIN represent a change in the way that credit and debit cards are used. The program is designed to cut down on the fraudulent use of credit cards. More and more banks are issuing customers Chip and PIN versions of their debit or credit cards. In the future, more and more vendors will be asking for a four-digit personal identification number or PIN, which will be entered into a keypad near the cash register. In some cases, a waiter will bring a handheld model to your table to verify your credit card. Warning: Some establishments in Portugal might not accept your credit card unless you have a computer chip embedded in it. The reason? To cut down on credit card fraud. More and more places in Portugal are moving from the magnetic strip credit card to the new system of “Chip and PIN.” In the changeover in technology, some retailers have falsely concluded that they can no longer take swipe cards, or can’t take signature cards that don’t have PINs anymore. For the time being both the new and old cards are used in shops, hotels, and restaurants regardless of whether they have the old credit and debit cards machines or the new Chip and PIN machines installed. Expect a lot of confusion before you arrive in Portugal or elsewhere. In the interim between traditional swipe credit cards and those with an embedded computer chip, here’s what you can do to protect yourself: • Get a four-digit PIN from your credit card’s issuing bank before leaving home. • Call the number on the back of each card and ask for a four-digit PIN. • Keep an eye out for the right logo displayed in a retailer’s window. You want Visa or MasterCard, not Maestro, Visa Electron, or Carte Bleue. • Know that your Amex card will work where an Amex logo is displayed, but the card is not as widely accepted as Visa and MasterCard. • As a last resort, make sure you have enough cash to cover your purchase.
5 H E A LT H STAYING HEALTHY Portugal does not offer free medical treatment to visitors, except for citizens of certain countries, such as Great Britain, which have reciprocal health agreements. Nationals from such countries as Canada and the United States have to pay for medical services rendered. You should encounter few health problems traveling in Portugal. The tap water is
generally safe to drink, the milk is pasteurized, and health services are good. Occasionally, the change in diet can cause some minor diarrhea, so you might want to take along some antidiarrhea medicine. Limit your exposure to the sun, especially during the first few days of your trip and thereafter from 11am to 2pm. Use a sunscreen with a high protection factor and apply it liberally. Remember
that children need more protection than adults do.
What to Do if You Get Sick Away from Home
The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice. • Australia: www.smartraveller.gov.au • Canada: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/index_e.html • U.K.: www.nhs.uk/nhsengland/Healthcareabroad/pages/Healthcareabroad.aspx • U.S.: www.cdc.gov/travel
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Healthy Travels to You
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Medical facilities are generally available in Portugal but, in many cases, might not meet U.S. standards. If a medical emergency arises, your hotel staff can usually put you in touch with a reliable doctor. If not, contact the American embassy or a consulate; each one maintains a list of English-speaking doctors. Medical and hospital services aren’t free, so be sure that you have appropriate insurance coverage before you travel. We list hospitals and emergency numbers under “Fast Facts: Portugal,” p. 414. In most cases, your existing health plan will provide the coverage you need. But double-check; you might want to buy travel medical insurance instead. Bring your insurance ID card with you when you travel. If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions like epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert Identification Tag (& 888/633-4298 in the U.S.; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert’s 24-hour hot line. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry prescription medications in their original containers, with pharmacy labels—otherwise, they
won’t make it through airport security. Also bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Don’t forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; & 716/754-4883 in the U.S. or 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you’re visiting and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC; & 800/232-4636 in the U.S.; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on necessary vaccines and health hazards by region or country. Any foreign consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you get sick, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor—even his or her own. You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital; many have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life threatening. You might not get immediate attention, but you won’t pay the high price of an emergency room visit. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep. com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).
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STAYING SAFE
S P E C I A L I Z E D T R AV E L R E S O U R C E S
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Though Portugal has a relatively low rate of violent crime, petty crime against tourists is on the rise in continental Portugal. Travelers can become targets of pickpockets and purse-snatchers, particularly at popular sites, in restaurants, and on public transportation. Rental cars and vehicles with nonlocal license plates are targets for break-ins, and travelers should remove all luggage from vehicles upon parking. Drivers in continental Portugal should keep car doors locked when stopped at intersections. In general, visitors to Portugal should carry limited cash and credit cards and should leave extra cash, credit cards, and personal documents at home or in a hotel safe. Travelers should also avoid using ATMs in isolated or poorly lit areas. While thieves can operate anywhere, the U.S. Embassy receives frequent reports of theft from the following areas:
Lisbon Area: Pickpocketing and pursesnatching in the Lisbon area occur in buses, restaurants, the airport, trains, train stations, and trams, especially tram no. 28 to the Castle of São Jorge. Gangs of youths have robbed passengers on the Lisbon-Cascais train. At restaurants, thieves snatch items hung over the backs of chairs or placed on the floor. There have been reports of theft of unattended luggage from the Lisbon Airport. Special care should be taken at the Santa Apolónia and Rossio train stations, the Alfama and Bairro Alto districts, the Castle of São Jorge, and Belém. Other Areas: Thefts have been reported in Sintra, Cascais, Mafra, and Fátima. Automobile break-ins occur in parking areas at attractions and near restaurants. Special care should be taken in parking at the Moorish Castle and Pena Palace in Sintra, and at the beachfront areas of Guincho, Cabo da Roca, and Boca do Inferno.
7 S P E C I A L I Z E D T R AV E L R E S O U R C E S GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS Attitudes toward homosexuality vary by region, with Lisbon, naturally, being the center of gay male life (less so for lesbians). The country has a strong Catholic heritage, and public displays of same-sex affection, especially in rural areas, might bring disapproval. Even so, overt homophobia is rare in Portugal. Nearly all hotels in Portugal are savvy about checking in same-sex couples, even if a double bed is requested. The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; & 800/4488550 in the U.S. or 954/776-2626; www. iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers
an online directory of gay and lesbianfriendly travel businesses; go to the website and click on “Members.” Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries to Portugal specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (& 800/397-2681 in the U.S.; www.abovebeyondtours.com) is the exclusive gay and lesbian tour operator for United Airlines. Now, Voyager (& 800/ 255-6951 in the U.S.; www.nowvoyager. com) is a well-known San Francisco–based gay-owned and -operated travel service. Gay.com Travel (& 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel), is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly
TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES
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Most disabilities shouldn’t stop anyone from traveling. Because of Portugal’s many hills and endless flights of stairs, visitors with disabilities might have difficulty getting around the country, but conditions are slowly improving. Newer hotels are more sensitive to the needs of those with disabilities, and the more expensive restaurants, in general, are wheelchair-accessible. However, since most places have limited, if any, facilities for people with disabilities, you might consider taking an organized tour specifically designed to accommodate travelers with disabilities. In general, facilities for persons with disabilities lag behind what is available in the United States or even in Spain. Of course, you’ll fare better in big cities such as Lisbon and do less well in rural areas. Many modern museums are equipped to handle persons with disabilities, especially in Lisbon. The preferred mode of transportation in Portugal for those with disabilities is the train. More and more stations have ramps, and many trains are equipped with wheelchair lifts, specially equipped toilets, and
even separate seating areas. All Eurostar trains are wheelchair accessible and most InterCity (IC) trains and some EuroCity (EC) trains are as well. If a person with disabilities can drive a car, Hertz and Avis seem to offer the best selection of handcontrolled vehicles. Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (& 800/CALL-MOSS [225-5667]; www.mossresourcenet.org), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; the Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH; & 212/4477284; www.sath.org) which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services; and the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; & 800/ 232-5463 or 212/502-7600 in the U.S.; www.afb.org), which provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs. Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Flying Wheels Travel (& 507/ 451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) offers escorted tours and cruises that emphasize sports and private tours in minivans with lifts. Access-Able Travel Source (& 303/232-2979; www.accessable.com) offers extensive access information and advice for traveling around the world with disabilities. Accessible Journeys (& 800/846-4537 or 610/5210339; www.disabilitytravel.com) caters specifically to slow walkers and wheelchair travelers and their families and friends. Flying with Disability (www.flyingwith-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (& 888/879-4273) has an “Avis Access” program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and
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updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide. The Canadian website GayTraveler (www.gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world. The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld. com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner, 17th Edition; and the Damron guides (www. damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.
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Traveling with Minors
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It’s always wise to have plenty of documentation when traveling in today’s world with children. For changing details on entry requirements for children traveling abroad, keep up-to-date by going to the U.S. Department of State website: http://travel.state.gov. To prevent international child abduction, E.U. governments have initiated procedures at entry and exit points. These often (but not always) include requiring documentary evidence of relationship and permission for the child’s travel from the parent or legal guardian not present. Having such documentation on hand, even if not required, facilitates entries and exits. All children must have their own passport. To obtain a passport, the child must be present—that is, in person—at the center issuing the passport. Both parents must be present as well. If not, then a notarized statement from the parents is required. Any questions parents or guardians might have can be answered by calling the National Passport Information Center at & 877/487-2778 Monday to Friday 8am to 8pm Eastern Standard Time.
accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance. Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerging horizons.com), available by subscription ($16.95 year U.S.; $21.95 outside the U.S.). The “Accessible Travel” link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor. com) offers a variety of travel resources to disabled persons. British travelers should contact Holiday Care (& 0845/124-9971 in the U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for those with disabilities and seniors
FAMILY TRAVEL If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning, dragging them thousands of miles away might seem like an insurmountable challenge. But family travel can be immensely rewarding, giving you new ways of seeing Portugal through smaller pairs of eyes. On Portuguese airlines, you must request a special menu for children at least
24 hours in advance. If baby food is required, however, bring your own and ask a flight attendant to warm it to the right temperature. Arrange ahead of time for such necessities as a crib, a bottle warmer, and a car seat. Recommended family travel Internet sites include Family Travel Forum (www. familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravel network.com), an award-winning site that offers travel features, deals, and tips; Travel with Your Kids (www.travelwith yourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravel files.com), which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families. Most museums in Portugal grant halfprice admission for kids under 12. Look also for our “Kids” icon, indicating attractions, restaurants, or hotels and resorts that are especially family-friendly throughout the country.
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Mention the fact that you’re a senior when you make your travel reservations. Although all of the major U.S. airlines except America West have canceled their senior discount and coupon book programs, many hotels still offer discounts for seniors. In most cities, people over the age of 60 qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions, as well as discounted fares on public transportation. Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (& 888/6872277 in the U.S.; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join. Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (& 800/454-5768 in the U.S.; www. elderhostel.org) arranges study programs in Portugal for those ages 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the
STUDENT TRAVEL The International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) was formed in 1949 to make travel around the world more affordable for students. Check out its website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (& 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you’re no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (& 800/592-2887; www. travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (& 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.
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The Internet offers a number of helpful travel sites for the black traveler. Black Travel Online (www.blacktravelonline. com) posts news on upcoming events and includes links to articles and travel-booking sites. For more information, check out the following collections and guides: Go Girl: The Black Woman’s Guide to Travel & Adventure (Eighth Mountain Press), a compilation of travel essays by writers including Jill Nelson and Audre Lorde, with some practical information and tripplanning advice; and the more narrative Pathfinders Magazine (& 877/977-PATH [7284]; www.pathfinderstravel.com), which includes articles on everything from Rio de Janeiro to Ghana.
U.S. and in more than 80 countries around the world. Most courses last 5 to 7 days in the U.S. (2–4 weeks abroad), and many include airfare, accommodations in university dormitories or modest inns, meals, and tuition. Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www. trave150andbeyond.com); and the bestselling paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 50 2005–2006, 16th Edition (McGrawHill), by Joan Rattner Heilman.
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SINGLE TRAVELERS Many people prefer traveling alone— except for the relatively steep cost of booking a single room, which is usually well over half the price of a double. Many British agents are keenly aware of the needs of the single traveler. One tour operator whose groups are usually at least half singles is Explore Worldwide Ltd., Nelson House, 55 Victoria Rd., Hampshire, England GU14 7PA (& 0870/3334001; www.explore.co.uk). It has a well-justified reputation for offering offbeat
tours, including 14-day expeditions to five islands of the Azores, and motorcoach tours through the highlights of “Unknown Spain and Portugal.” Groups rarely include more than 16 participants; children under 14 are not allowed. TravelChums (& 212/787-2621; www.travelchums.com) is an Internetonly travel-companion matching service with elements of an online personals-type site, hosted by the respected New York– based Shaw Guides travel service. They periodically offer trips to Portugal.
8 S U S TA I N A B L E TO U R I S M Ecotourism in Portugal may have been slow in coming, but it is beginning to take hold in this beautiful land. Many places are overbuilt, especially along the seacoast. But other areas, especially in the interior, are being preserved and set aside for future generations to enjoy. Portugal’s major national park is Peneda-Gerês, in the Minho district, north of the city of Braga, close to the Spanish border. But the little country has many specially protected areas, which are nature reserves. Most of these are in the mountainous regions, including Montesinho, near Bragança; Alvão, near Vile Real Amarante; and Serra dos Candeeiros, near Fátima. In recent years, the government has also declared some of Portugal’s coastal areas as protected landscapes, rescuing them from developers. These areas include the resorts of Esposende; Sintra-Cascais; and southeast Alentejo, near Cabo de São Vicente. If you’d like to find lodging in Portugal’s protected areas, check out Turismo da Natureza em Portugal at Av. Eng. Arantes e Oliveira #13, 4B, 1900-221 Lisboa (www.icat.fc.ul.pt). Solares are family homes as opposed to hotels, and each of them offers a holiday
experience with a personal touch. However, within this category the accommodations are wide ranging, from elegant country houses to rustic cottages, even farmhouses, each with an individual character. Some of the TURIHAB homes have hosted visitors since the 16th and 17th centuries. Hosts will arrange a series of leisure activities such as fishing, hunting, golf, swimming, hiking, tennis, horseback riding, cycling, and wine-tasting. For a list of eco-friendly accommodations, scattered throughout the country, search www.itsagreengreenworld.com. Various homesteads, quintas, and villas scattered throughout the country accept guests, ranging from the Algarve north to the Minho. Perhaps you’ll book into a yoga retreat or else a quinta on the slopes of the Caramulo mountain range in central Portugal. Another good site to peruse for ecotourism is http://ecoclub.com, listing members and activities that center around ecotourism. For example, you might hook up with “Nature Meetings” on the island of Madeira, the first company on that island to provide in-depth walking experiences. You might also link yourself to an eco-friendly yurt holiday in the mountains of Portugal near the ancient university
travel tour operators, businesses, organizations, and places that have made a significant contribution to sustainable tourism. Eco travel.com is part online magazine and part ecodirectory that lets you search for touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on). In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www. tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism and find ways of improving tourism so that local benefits are increased. The Association of British Travel Agents (ABTA; www.abta.com) acts as a focal point for the U.K. travel industry and is one of the leading groups spearheading responsible tourism to Portugal. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making Portuguese holidays sustainable.
9 T H E AC T I V E VAC AT I O N P L A N N E R the Serra de Estrela. For fishing in the area in and around Lisbon, contact the Clube dos Amadores de Pesca de Lisboa, Travessa do Adro 12, 1800 Lisbon (& 21/ 68-48-05), or the Clube Desportivo e Cultural de Amadores de Pesca da Costa do Sol, Rua das Fontainhas 8, 2750 Cascais (& 21/484-16-91). For information about fishing elsewhere in the country, contact regional tourist offices. Fishing in inland waters is limited compared to fishing along the 800km (496 miles) of coastline. Deep-sea fishing, in waters richly stocked with fish swept toward Europe on northeast-flowing ocean currents, yields abundant catches. Fishing boats can be rented, with and sometimes without a crew, all along the Algarve as well. FOOTBALL Football—called soccer in the United States—is the most popular sport in Portugal. It’s taken so seriously
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BULLFIGHTS No discussion of Portuguese recreation would be complete without a reference to la tourada (bullfighting). Unlike the rituals in Spain and parts of South America, in Portuguese bullfighting the bull is not killed at the end of the event, but is released to a life of grazing and stud duties. The cavaleiros (horsemen) dress in 18th-century costumes, which include silk jackets, tricornered hats, and tan riding breeches. Bullfights are held regularly in Lisbon’s Campo Pequeno area, across the Tagus in the working-class city of Santarém, throughout the south-central plains, and in the Azores. FISHING The northern section of Portugal receives abundant rainfall and contains rugged hills and some of the best-stocked streams in Iberia. Most noteworthy are the Rio Minho, the Rio Vouga, the Rio Lima, and the creeks and lakes of
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town of Coimbra, or else an ecological estate in the famous Serra da Estrela Nature Park, where you can stay on the banks of the River Mondego at a large granite-built farmhouse with a private pool. Responsible Travel (www.responsible travel.com) contains a great source of sustainable travel ideas run by a spokesperson for responsible tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www. sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes responsible tourism practices and issues an annual Green Gear & Gift Guide. You can find eco-friendly travel tips, statistics, and touring companies and associations—listed by destination under “Travel Choice”—at the TIES website, www.eco tourism.org. Also check out Conservation International (www.conservation.org)— which, with National Geographic Traveler, annually presents World Legacy Awards (www.nationalgeographic.com) to those
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that on Sunday afternoons during important matches (with Spain or Brazil, for example), the country seems to come almost to a standstill. Notices about the venues of upcoming matches are prominently posted with hotel concierges, in newspapers, and on bulletin boards throughout various cities. One of the most-watched teams is that of Porto, which won the European Cup in 1987. The loyalty of Lisbon fans seems equally divided between the two hometown teams, Benfica and Sporting Club. GOLF With its sun-flooded expanses of underused land and its cultural links to Britain, Portugal has developed a passion for golf. Most of the nation’s finest courses date from the late 1970s. The most important ones are in the Algarve; many are world-class. Others have been developed near Lisbon and Estoril, near Porto, and even on Madeira and the Azores. Usually within sight of the sea, most courses incorporate dramatic topography, and such famed golf-course designers as Robert Trent Jones (Sr. and Jr.), Henry Cotton, and Frank Pennink conceived most. For more information and an overview, contact the Federação Portuguesa de Golfe (Portuguese Golf Federation), Av. Das Túlipas 6, Edificio Miraflores, 1495-161 Algés (& 21/412-37-80; www.fpg.pt). HORSEBACK RIDING The Portuguese have prided themselves on their equestrian skills since their earliest battles against Roman invaders. Most of the resorts along the Algarve, plus a few in Cascais, maintain stables stocked with horses for long trail rides over hills, along beaches, and through ancient sun-baked villages. For more information, contact the Federação Equestre Portuguesa (Portuguese Equestrian Federation), Av. Manuel Maia 26, 1000-201 Lisboa (& 21/847-87-74; www. fep.pt). The best offering available from Equitour, P.O. Box 807, 10 Stalnaker St., Dubois, WY 82513 (& 800/545-0019 or
307/455-33-63; www.ridingtours.com), is a program of 8 days and 7 nights, with Lisbon as a meeting point. The price is $1,740 to $1,995 per person, and the weight limit is 185 pounds. Accommodations and special transfers are included in this tour, “The Blue Coast Ride.” The rides go across some of the most scenic parts of Portugal, through valleys, along passes, and past waterfalls. NATURE WATCHING Hiking in Portugal is great for bird-watchers. The westernmost tip of continental Europe lies along the main migration routes between the warm wetlands of Africa and the cooler breeding grounds of northern Europe. The moist, rugged terrain of northern Portugal is especially suited for nature watching, particularly around Peneda-Gerês, where wild boar, wild horses, and wolves still roam through hills and forests. WATERSPORTS With much of its national identity connected to the sea, Portugal offers a variety of watersports. Outside the Algarve, few activities are highly organized, although the country’s 800km (496 miles) of Atlantic coastline are richly peppered with secluded beaches and fishing hamlets. A recent development, especially in the Algarve, is the construction of a series of water parks, with large swimming pools, wave-making machines, waterslides, and fun fountains. Sailing on well-designed oceangoing craft can be arranged at the Cascais Yacht Club, at any of the marinas in the Tagus, near Lisbon, or along the Algarve—particularly near the marina at Vilamoura. The surfing along the sun-blasted, windswept coast at Guincho has attracted fans from throughout Europe. For information about sailing and water events, contact the Associação Naval de Lisboa (Naval Association of Lisbon), Doca de Belém, 1400038 Lisboa (& 21/361-94-80; www.anl. pt); the Federação Portuguesa de Vela (Portuguese Sailing Federation), Doca
de Belém, 1300-038 Lisboa (& 21/36585-00; www.fpvela.pt); or the Federação Portuguesa de Actividades Subaquáticas
(Portuguese Underwater Sports Federation), Rua José Falcão 4, 1170-193 Lisboa (& 21/816-65-47; www.fpas.pt).
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available, plus trips that try to capture the essence of Portugal and Spain. Many people derive a certain ease and security from escorted trips. Escorted tours—whether by bus, motorcoach, train, or boat—let travelers sit back and enjoy their trip without having to spend lots of time behind the wheel. All the little details are taken care of, you know your costs upfront, and there are few surprises. Escorted tours can take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle—you don’t have to sweat over the plotting and planning of a vacation schedule. Escorted tours are particularly convenient for people with limited mobility. On the downside, an escorted tour often requires a big deposit upfront, and lodging and dining choices are predetermined. As part of a cloud of tourists, you’ll get little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jampacked with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure—plus they also often focus only on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on the lesser-known gems. Before you invest in an escorted tour, ask about the cancellation policy: Is a deposit required? Can they cancel the trip if they don’t get enough people? Do you get a refund if they cancel? If you cancel? How late can you cancel if you are unable to go? When do you pay in full? Note: If you choose an escorted tour, think strongly about purchasing trip-cancellation insurance, especially if the tour operator asks you to pay upfront. You’ll also want to get a complete schedule of the trip to find out how much
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Escorted tours are structured group tours with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation. There are many escorted tour companies to choose from, each offering transportation to and within Portugal, prearranged hotel space, and such extras as bilingual tour guides and lectures. Many of these tours to Portugal include excursions to Spain. Some of the best escorted tours to Portugal are offered by Blue Danube Holidays (& 800/268-4155 or 416/362-5000; www.bluedanubeholidays.com in the U.S.), a long-established company since 1983. It offers a Grand Tour of Portugal along with any number of beach holidays (from Madeira to the Algarve), and even city tours of Lisbon. Some of the most expensive and luxurious tours are run by Abercrombie & Kent International (& 800/554-7016; www. abercrombiekent.com), including deluxe 15-day tours of the Iberian Peninsula by train. Guests stay in some of the country’s finest hotels. Alternative Travel Group Ltd. (& 01865/315678; www.atg-oxford.co. uk) is a British firm that organizes walking and cycling vacations in Portugal and Spain. Tours explore the scenic countryside and medieval towns of each country. If you’d like a brochure outlining the tours, call & 01865/315665. Petrabax Tours (& 800/634-1188 in the U.S.; http://petrabax.com) attracts those who prefer to see Portugal by bus, although fly/drive packages are also offered. A number of city packages are also
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Shopping Tips
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Regardless of where it’s made—from the Azores to the remote northeast province of Trás-os-Montes—merchandise from all over Portugal ends up in Lisbon stores. But if you’re going to a particular province, try to shop locally, where prices are often about 20% less than those in Lisbon. A general exception is the fabled handmade embroideries from Madeira; prices there are about the same as in Lisbon. Products made of cork, which range from place mats to cigarette boxes, are good buys. Collectors seek out decorative glazed tiles. You also might find good buys in Lisbon in porcelain and china, in fishermen’s sweaters from the north, and in fado recordings. Intricately woven lightweight baskets make attractive, practical gifts. It’s best to shop for handmade lace in Vila do Conde, outside Porto, where you get a better buy; many Lisbon outlets carry the lace as well. Pottery is one of the best buys in Portugal, and pottery covered with brightly colored roosters from Barcelos is legendary. In fact, the rooster has become the virtual symbol of Portugal. Blue-and-white pottery is made in Coimbra and often in Alcobaça. Our favorite items come from Caldas da Rainha. They include yellow-and-green dishes in the shape of vegetables (especially cabbage), fruit, animals, and even leaves. Vila Real is known for its black pottery, and Aceiro is known for polychrome pottery. Some red-clay pots from the Alentejo region in the southeast are based on designs that go back to the Etruscans. Atlantis crystal is another good buy. Suede and leather, as in Spain, are also good buys. In the Algarve, handsome lanterns, fire screens, and even outdoor furniture are constructed from metal—mainly copper, brass, and tin. The best buy in Portugal, gold, is strictly regulated by the government. Jewelers must put a minimum of 19.2 karats into the jewelry they sell. Filigree jewelry in gold and silver is popular in Lisbon and elsewhere in Portugal. The art of ornamental openwork made of fine gold or silver wire dates to ancient times. The most expensive items—often objets d’art—are fashioned from 191⁄4-karat gold. Filigree is often used in depictions of caravels. Less expensive trinkets are often made of sterling silver, sometimes dipped in 24-karat gold. Portugal is also famous for Arraiolos carpets, fine woolen rugs that have earned an international reputation. You can visit the little town of Arraiolos, in Alentejo. According to legend, Moorish craftsmen expelled from Lisbon in the early 16th century first made the rugs. The patterns were said to imitate Persian designs. Some Arraiolos carpets eventually find their way into museums.
sightseeing is planned each day and whether enough time has been allotted for relaxing or wandering solo. The size of the group is also important to know upfront. Generally, the smaller
the group is, the more flexible the itinerary is and the less time you’ll spend waiting for people to get on and off the bus. Find out the demographics of the group as well. What is the age range? What is the gender
the hotels’ reviews in a Frommer’s guide and check their rates for your specific dates of travel online. You’ll want to find out what type of room you get, too. If you need a certain type of room, ask for it; don’t take whatever is thrown your way. Finally, if you plan to travel alone, you’ll need to know whether a single supplement will be charged and whether the company can match you up with a roommate.
1 1 S P E C I A L I N T E R E S T TO U R S THEME TOURS Cycling tours are a good way to see the back roads of a country and stretch your limbs. Although dozens of companies in Britain offer guided cycling tours on foreign turf, only a handful offer itineraries through Portugal. One is the Cyclists’ Tourist Club, Parklands, Railton Road, Guildford, Surrey GU2 9JX (& 0870/873-0060; www.ctc. org.uk). It charges £36 a year for membership, which includes information and suggested cycling routes through Portugal and dozens of other countries. In the United States, bicyclists can contact Backroads, 801 Cedar St., Berkeley, CA 94710 (& 800/GO-ACTIVE [4622848] in the U.S.; www.backroads.com). Another outfitter arranging bike tours is Uniquely Europe, a division of Europe Express, 3303 Monte Villa Parkway, Ste. 200, Bothell, WA 98021 (& 425/5278050; www.europeexpress.com). The best golf tours (usually in the Algarve) are arranged by Golf International, 14 E. 38th St., New York, NY 10016 (& 800/833-1389 or 212/9869176; www.golfinternational.com). Tours on the best hiking and walking trails are available through Adventure Center, 1311 63rd St., Ste. 200, Emeryville, CA 94608 (& 800/228-8747 in the U.S., or 510/654-1879; www.adventurecenter.com).
LEARNING THE LANGUAGE The National Registration Center for Study Abroad (NRCSA), P.O. Box 1393, Milwaukee, WI 53201 (& 414/278-0631; www.nrcsa.com), allows you to experience Portugal by living and learning the language. The NRCSA has helped people of all ages and backgrounds participate in foreign travel and cultural programs since 1968. Contact the NRCSA for details about the courses and their costs.
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CULTURAL EXCHANGES Servas (“to serve” in Esperanto), 1125 16 St., Ste. 201, Arcata, CA 95521 (& 707/ 825-1714; www.usservas.org) is a nonprofit, nongovernmental, international, interfaith network of travelers and hosts. Its goal is to help build world peace, goodwill, and understanding by providing opportunities for deeper, more personal contacts among people of diverse cultural and political backgrounds. Servas travelers share living space, without charge, with members of communities worldwide. Visits last a maximum of 2 nights. Visitors fill out an application and are interviewed for suitability by 1 of more than 200 Servas interviewers throughout the country. They then receive a directory listing the names and addresses of prospective hosts.
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breakdown? Is this mostly a trip for couples or singles? Discuss what is included in the price. You might have to pay for transportation to and from the airport. A box lunch might be included in an excursion, but drinks might cost extra. Tips might not be included. Find out whether you will be charged if you decide to opt out of certain activities or meals. Also ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. Then look up
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Shipping Tips
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Many stores in Portugal will crate and ship bulky objects. Any especially large item, such as a piece of furniture, should be sent by ship. Every antiques dealer in Lisbon has lists of reputable maritime shippers. For most small and medium-size shipments, air freight isn’t much more expensive than sending the items by ship. TAP, the Portuguese airline, has a separate toll-free U.S. number for cargo inquiries (& 800/221-78-90). Once in Lisbon, you can contact TAP to make air-shipping arrangements for larger purchases by calling the Lisbon cargo department offices at & 21/841-63-36. It’s open Monday through Friday from 9am to 6:30pm. Remember that all your air-cargo shipments will need to clear Customs in the United States, Canada, or your home country. This involves some additional paperwork and perhaps a trip to the airport near where you live. It’s usually best to hire a commercial Customs broker to do the work for you. See the “Taxes” info on p. 416 for info on value-added tax rules here.
With its historic sights and beautiful countryside, Portugal is an appealing place for hill climbing and hiking. In the United Kingdom, Exodus, 1311 63rd St., Ste. 200, Emeryville, CA 94608 (& 800/8434272; www.exodus.co.uk), offers 7- and 14-day walking tours through Portugal several times a year. Sherpa Expeditions, 131a Heston Rd., Hounslow, Middlesex TW5 0RF (& 020/8577-2717; www. sherpaexpeditions.com), offers trips through off-the-beaten-track regions of the world, which include the Portuguese island of Madeira. You might have read about archaeology tours, but most permit you only to look at the sites, not actually dig. A notable and much-respected exception is Earthwatch, 3 Clock Tower Place, Ste. 100, Maynard,
MA 01754 (& 800/776-0188; www. earthwatch.org). It offers more than 150 programs designed and supervised by wellqualified academic and ecological authorities. At any time, at least 50 programs welcome participants for hands-on experience in preserving or documenting historical, archaeological, or ecological phenomena of interest to the global community. Projects in Portugal have included digs that uncovered a string of ancient and medieval hill forts across the country. In the United Kingdom, for the best sampling of possibilities, contact the Association of Independent Tour Operators, or AITO (& 020/8744-9280; www.aito. co.uk). The staff can provide names and addresses of tour operators that specialize in travel relating to your particular interest.
1 2 S TAY I N G CO N N E C T E D TELEPHONES To call Portugal: 1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia. 2. Dial the country code 351.
3. Dial the city code (don’t include the 0), and then the number. To make international calls: To make international calls from Portugal, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia
CELLPHONES
VOICEOVER INTERNET PROTOCOL VOIP If you have Web access while traveling, you might consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice-over Internet Protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allows you to make free international calls if you use their services from your laptop or in a cybercafe. The people you’re calling must also use the service to make the call for free; check the sites for details.
INTERNET/EMAIL Without Your Own Computer To find cybercafes in your destination check www.cybercaptive.com and www. cybercafe.com. Most major airports have Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that’s usually higher than cybercafe prices. Check out such copy shops as Kinko’s (FedEx Kinko’s), which offers computer stations with fully loaded software (as well as Wi-Fi).
With Your Own Computer More and more hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers are going Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity), becoming “hotspots” that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. Most laptops
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The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile, AT&T Wireless, and Cingular use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers use GSM, and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone, such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across civilized areas around much of the globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high—usually $1 to $1.50 in western Europe. For many, renting a phone is a good idea. While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, we suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch Global
(& 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal. com) or RoadPost (& 888/290-1616 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas. Buying a phone can be economically attractive, as many nations have cheap prepaid phone systems. Once you arrive at your destination, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package; you’ll probably pay less than $100 for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ per minute, and in many countries incoming calls are free.
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61, New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1202-588-7800. For directory assistance: Dial 118 if you’re looking for a number inside Portugal, and dial 177 for numbers to all other countries. For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial 171. Toll-free numbers: Calling a 1-800 number in the States from Portugal is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.
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Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource
T I P S O N ACCO M M O D AT I O N S
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Planning a trip or just returned? Head to Frommers.com, voted Best Travel Site by PC Magazine. We think you’ll find our site indispensable before, during, and after your travels—with expert advice and tips; independent reviews of hotels, restaurants, attractions, and preferred shopping and nightlife venues; vacation giveaways; and an online booking tool. We publish the complete contents of over 135 travel guides in our Destinations section, covering over 4,000 places worldwide. Each weekday, we publish original articles that report on Deals and News via our free Frommers.com Newsletters. What’s more, Arthur Frommer himself blogs five days a week, with cutting opinions about the state of travel in the modern world. We’re betting you’ll find our Events listings an invaluable resource; it’s an up-to-the-minute roster of what’s happening in cities everywhere—including concerts, festivals, lectures, and more. We’ve also added weekly podcasts, interactive maps, and hundreds of new images across the site. Finally, don’t forget to visit our Message Boards, where you can join in conversations with thousands of fellow Frommer’s travelers and post your trip report once you return.
sold today have built-in wireless capability. To find public Wi-Fi hotspots at your destination, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world’s largest directory of public wireless hotspots. For dial-up access, most business-class hotels throughout the world offer dataports for laptop modems, and a few thousand
hotels in Europe now offer free high-speed Internet access. Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable—or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.
1 3 T I P S O N ACCO M M O D AT I O N S When you check into a hotel, you’ll see the official rates posted in the main lobby and somewhere in your room, perhaps at the bottom of the closet. These rates, dictated by the Directorate of Tourism, are regulated and really are a form of rent control. They include the 13% service charge and 18% value-added tax (VAT). If an infraction such as overcharging occurs, you can demand to be given the Official Complaints Book, in which you can write your allegations. The hotel manager is obligated to turn your comments over to the Directorate of Tourism. The
directorate staff reviews them to see if punitive action should be taken. The government rates hotels in Portugal from five stars to one. The difference between a five-star hotel and a four-star hotel will not always be apparent to the casual visitor. Often the distinction is based on square footage of bathrooms and other technicalities. When you go below this level, you enter the realm of the second- and third-class hotel. Some can be decent and even excellent places to stay. Third-class hotels are bare-bones accommodations in Portugal.
Coastal hotels, especially those in the Algarve, are required to grant off-season (Nov–Feb) visitors a 15% discount. To attract more off-season business, a number of establishments offer this discount from mid-October through March.
PRICES & RATINGS IN THIS GUIDE
POUSADAS
OTHER SPECIAL ACCOMMODATIONS Tourist inns not run by the government are known as estalagens. Often these offer some of the finest accommodations in Portugal; many are decorated in the traditional Portuguese, or típico, style and represent top-notch bargains. The residência is a form of boardinghouse, without board. These establishments offer a room and breakfast only. The pensão is a boardinghouse that charges the lowest rates in the country. The “deluxe” pensão is a misnomer; the term simply means that the pensão enjoys the highest rating in its category. The accommodations are decidedly not luxurious. A “luxury” pensão is generally the equivalent
3 T I P S O N ACCO M M O D AT I O N S
When traveling through the countryside, plot your trips so you’ll stop over at the government-owned pousadas (tourist inns). The Portuguese government has established these inns in historic buildings, such as convents, palaces, and castles. Often they occupy beautiful physical settings. Generally (but not always), the pousadas are in regions that don’t have many suitable hotels—everywhere from Henry the Navigator’s Sagres to a feudal castle in the walled city of Óbidos. The rates are not low but, for the quality and services offered, are moderate. A guest can’t stay more than 5 days because there’s usually a waiting list. Special terms are granted to honeymoon couples. For our recommendations, see “The Best Pousadas,” in chapter 1. Travel agents can make reservations at pousadas, or you can contact Pousadas de Portugal, Av. Sta. Joana Princesa 10, 1749 Lisboa (& 21/844-20-01; www.pousadas. pt).
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Unless otherwise indicated, prices in this guide include service and taxes. Breakfast might or might not be included; individual write-ups reflect various hotel policies about breakfast. All references in Portugal to “including breakfast” refer to continental breakfast of juice, coffee or tea, croissants, butter, and jam. If you stay at a hotel and order bacon and eggs or other extras, you’ll likely be billed for them as a la carte items. Parking rates are per day.
COUNTRY HOMES Far more exciting—at least to us—than the pousadas is the chain of farm estates, country homes, and restored manor houses that have opened to the public here. These properties are the most highly recommended in this guide, and they offer grand comfort and lots of charm, often in a historic setting. The best and most extensive network is in the region of Viana do Castelo, where you can sometimes board with the poor but proud Portuguese aristocracy. Many of these manors and farms are called quintas. The association Turismo de Habitação (Country House Tourism), which mostly operates in the north, has been formed to publicize and link these unique accommodations. In recent years, areas such as the Beiras and Alentejo have been included. Local tourist offices provide directories that include color photographs and maps with directions. All of these properties are privately run, and breakfast is always included. Praça da República, 4990 Ponte de Lima (& 25/874-28-27; www.solaresdeportugal.pt).
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of a second-class hotel. The boardinghouses are finds for the budget hunter. Many prepare generous portions of good local cuisine. There are both first- and second-class boardinghouses. Another addition to the accommodations scene is the solare. Most are spacious country-manor houses, formerly property of the Portuguese aristocracy, that are now being restored and opened as guesthouses. Many date from the Age of Exploration, when navigators brought riches back from all over the world and established lavish homes that were passed down to their heirs. The inns are all over the country, but most are along the Costa Verde, between Ponte de Lima and Viana do Castelo. Information on the solares program is available from the Portuguese National Tourist Office, 590 Fifth Ave., 4th Floor, New York, NY 10036 (& 800/PORTUGAL [767-8842] or 212/354-4403; www. portugal.com). One of the best associations for arranging stays in private homes is Privetur, 42 Lupus St., London SW1V 3EB (& 020/
7096-0210; www.privetur.co.uk). It represents manor houses and country homes in all the major tourist districts. Privetur can arrange accommodations in circumstances that are sometimes more personalized than stays in large hotels.
RESERVATIONS Reservations are essential for peak-season summer travel in Portugal, when many hotels fill with vacationing Europeans. Unless you’re incurably spontaneous, you’ll probably be better off with some idea of where you’ll spend each night, even in low season. Most hotels require at least a day’s deposit before they’ll reserve a room. You can usually cancel a room reservation 1 week ahead of time and get a full refund, but check your hotel’s policy when you book. It’s important that you enclose a prepaid International Reply Coupon with your payment, especially if you’re writing to a budget hotel. Better yet, call and speak to a staff member, or send a fax.
Suggested Portugal Itineraries If you have unlimited time, one of Europe’s greatest pleasures is getting “lost” on the dusty plains of Alentejo or in the little hidden coves of the Algarve. It’s fun to wander about Portugal at random, making new discoveries off the beaten path, finding enchanting towns you’ve never heard of or read about in a guidebook, places like Vila Real, the remote capital of Trás-os-Montes, Portugal’s least explored province. But few of us have such a generous amount of time in the speeded-up 21st century. Vacations are getting shorter, and a “lean-and-mean” schedule is called for if you want to experience the best of Portugal in a ridiculously short amount of time. If you’re such a time-pressed traveler, as most of us are, you may find “Portugal in 1 Week” or “Portugal in 2 Weeks” below most helpful for skimming the highlights. If you’ve been to Portugal before, exploring such well-trodden tourist meccas as Lisbon and Sintra, you may want to discover a different area of the country this time. See, for example, “The Algarve in 1 Week,” later in this chapter. This is the southernmost province of Portugal, and it has much to discover. Many visitors who have gone to North Africa feel that the
Algarve is the European version of that strip of Arabic land. You might also want to refer to chapter 1 to see what experiences or sights appeal to you, and adjust the itineraries to suit your particular travel desires. If you stick to the main highways, Portugal has fine and well-maintained roads. But when you wander off the beaten trail, you may find less than desirable driving conditions. At any rate, when driving in Portugal you’ll encounter (hopefully not face-toface) some of Europe’s most reckless drivers. The country has an alarming vehicular accident rate, so be duly cautious and drive defensively. Many Europeans refer to the Portuguese as “cowboys of the road.” Portugal is blessed with a fast and efficient rail system to transport you to the highlights. Where the train ends, a bus is usually waiting to take you the rest of the way. The itineraries that follow take you to some of the major attractions such as Lisbon but also direct you to more secluded villages such as the picture-postcard-perfect hamlet of Óbidos. The pace may be a bit breathless for some visitors, so skip a town or sight occasionally to have some chill-out time—after all, you’re on vacation.
THE REGIONS IN BRIEF Here is Portugal in a nutshell, a tantalizing preview of what the country has to offer, and from which you can make choices about where you’d like to go.
Lisbon & the Costa Do Sol Portugal’s capital is on hilly terrain beside one of the finest harbors in Europe—the estuary of the Tagus (Tejo) River. Within a few miles of the city limits,
the beaches of the Costa do Sol cater to residents of the capital, who easily reach them by bus and train. Until the development of beaches in the Algarve, those on the Costa do Sol were among the
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SUGGESTED PORTUGAL ITINERARIES
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THE REGIONS IN BRIEF
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most crowded and glamorous in the country. The best-known resorts include Estoril and Cascais, long playgrounds of the wintering wealthy. Estremadura The name translates as “the extremity,” but it has radically different connotations from those associated with the harsh landscapes of Estremadura in neighboring Spain. Early in the development of the Portuguese nation, rulers based in the country’s north-central region coined the term to refer to the Moorish territories to the south that the Portuguese eyed enviously. Technically, those territories included Nazaré, Óbidos, and Fátima; in many cases, the word is now used to include the territory around Lisbon as well. Estremadura’s coastline is flanked by some of the country’s richest fishing banks. The Algarve Encompassing the extreme southwestern tip of Europe, the Algarve boasts a 161km (100-mile) coastline with some of the best beaches in Europe. It’s permeated with memories of the long-ago Moorish occupation, when the region was called Al-Gharb. The garden of Portugal, this naturally arid district is laced with large-scale irrigation projects. Except for the massive development of beach resorts since the late 1960s, the landscape in many ways resembles the coast of nearby Morocco, with which it has much in common. Alentejo & Ribatejo East and southeast of Lisbon, these regions form the agrarian heartland of Portugal. Underpopulated but fertile, and marked mostly by fields and grasslands, these are horseand bull-breeding territories, with some of the most idyllic landscapes in Iberia. Their medieval cities, including Évora, Tomar, Beja, Elvas, and Estremoz, contain famous examples of Roman and Manueline architecture.
Coimbra & The Beiras Between two of the country’s most vital rivers, the Beiras were incorporated into the medieval kingdom of Portugal earlier than the territories farther south, including Lisbon. Given their history, they’re among the most traditional Portuguese areas in the country. The medieval university town of Coimbra is the highlight of the region; a cluster of spas and the legendary forest of Buçaco also draw visitors. The region technically consists of three districts: Coastal Beira (Beira Litoral), Low Beira (Beira Baixa), and High Beira (Beira Alta). The Beiras contain the country’s highest peaks— the Serra de Estrela—and the Mondela River. Porto & The Douro Porto, Portugal’s second-largest city, has thrived as a mercantile center since English traders used it as a base for the export of port, London’s favorite drink during the Regency. The river that feeds it, the Douro, flows through some of the world’s richest vineyards before emptying into the Atlantic in Porto’s harbor. Porto abounds with the 19th-century mansions of merchants who grew wealthy from growing wine grapes or through investments in such colonies as Brazil. The most popular resort in the region is the once-sleepy former fishing village of Póvoa de Varzim. The Minho This is the northernmost region of Portugal, an isolated, idiosyncratic area with a population descended more or less directly from Celtic ancestors. The local tongue is a tricky dialect that more closely resembles that of Galicia (in northwestern Spain) than it does Portuguese. The Minho is almost a land unto itself; with most of the population centered in Viana do Castelo, Guimarães, and Braga. Ardently provincial and suspicious of outsiders, the district figured prominently in the development of medieval Portugal as a
21km (13 miles) across at its widest point, the island is an autonomous region of Portugal and has a year-round population of 255,000. The Azores This island chain is one of the most isolated in the Atlantic Ocean. It constitutes an autonomous region and has some 240,000 yearround occupants who live amid rocky, moss-covered landscapes closely tied to the sea. The archipelago spans more than 800km (496 miles) that stretch from the southeastern tip of Santa Maria to the northwestern extremity of the island of Corvo. The chain’s largest island is São Miguel, which lies a third of the way across the Atlantic, about 1,200km (744 miles) west of Portugal and 3,400km (2,108 miles) east of New York. Today the Azores are widely known within yachting circles as the final destination for annual sailboat races from Newport and Bermuda.
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kingdom separate from Spain, producing early kings who moved south in their conquest of territories, which were held, until then, by the Moors. Trás-os-Montes This far northeastern and least visited corner of Portugal is a wild, rugged land whose name translates literally as “beyond the mountains.” Aggressively provincial, the region nevertheless has strong ties to its neighbor, the Minho. Local granite dominates the architecture. The district stretches from Lamego and the Upper Douro to the Spanish border. Vila Real is the largest town. Madeira Near the coast of Africa, 855km (530 miles) southwest of Portugal, Madeira is the much-eroded peak of a volcanic mass. Wintering English gentry first discovered the island’s recreational charms; today it’s one of the world’s most famous islands, known for the abundant beauty of its gardens. Only 57km (35 miles) long and about
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The very title of this tour is a misnomer. There is no way you can see all of Portugal in 1 week, merely a few of its highlights. But you can have a memorable vacation in Portugal if you budget your time carefully. You can use the following itinerary to make the most out of a week in Portugal, but feel free to drop a place or two to save a day to relax. Days 1 to 3 Lisbon: Gateway to Portugal Lisbon is the highlight of Portugal, as befits a capital city, and it also happens to be the arrival point for most rail, plane, and bus trips. Try to arrive in Lisbon as early as possible in the morning to get in a full round of the city’s attractions. After checking into a hotel, head for the Alfama, climaxed by a visit to the Castelo de São Jorge (St. George’s Castle; p. 124), where you’ll also be treated to the most panoramic view in all of Lisbon.
Wander around the narrow streets of the Alfama for 2 hours. In the afternoon, head for the suburb of Belém, where you can visit the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (p. 126), Torre de Belém (p. 129), and later the Museu Nacional dos Coches (National Coach Museum; p. 129). Spend the night going to a fado club where you not only can enjoy a regional dinner but also listen to some of the country’s favorite songs. On Day 2, travel outside Lisbon to glorious Sintra, the single most beautiful
PORTUGAL IN 1 WEEK
1 PORTUGAL IN 1 WEEK
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town in all of Portugal—Lord Byron likened it to Eden. You can spend an entire day here wandering about, losing yourself in its quaint streets. However, allow enough time to visit its two major attractions, Palácio Nacional de Sintra (p. 184) and Palácio Nacional de Pena (p. 184). Return to Lisbon for the night. On the morning of Day 3, mop up the major attractions of Lisbon you didn’t have time to see on Day One. Among these is the Museu da Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian (p. 130), one of the world’s finest private art collections, assembled by the tycoon Calouste Gulbenkian, and now beefed up by new bequests. Allow an hour and a half for a visit. Follow this with a late morning visit to the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (p. 132), which will take up at least another 11⁄2 hours. This is the country’s grandest museum and a showcase for its national treasures, which include some of Europe’s grandest old master paintings. In the afternoon, after lunch in a typical Lisboan tavern, take our walking tour of Baixa, the center of Lisbon, and the Chiado (p. 141). This will take up to 3 hours of your afternoon. If time remains, get in some shopping by walking such streets as Rua Áurea or Rua de Prata (for a list of our suggestions, coverage begins on p. 146). Days 4 & 5 Costa do Sol: Lisbon’s Riviera Leave Lisbon in the morning and head west along its Riviera, the Costa do Sol. The best place here for overnighting is the former fishing village of Cascais, now a major beach resort. You can stop off and explore Estoril in the morning, as it lies only 24km (15 miles) west of Lisbon. See p. 160. In this former stamping ground of royalty, walk through the Parque Estoril in the center of town and maybe spend an hour or two on the beach if time allows. Continue on to Cascais, 6.5km (4 miles) west of Estoril, for the night. You can arrive early enough in the day for a seafood
lunch, which can be enjoyed after you check into a hotel. The rest of the day can be spent wandering its narrow streets, shopping, and sightseeing. Although the city has museums, none is more intriguing than the streets of the town itself. In summer, make hotel reservations way in advance. If you skipped beach time in Estoril, you can head for the sands at Cascais. If you want to take an afternoon excursion, make it to the Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell; p. 168) to see its thundering waves from the Atlantic. On Day 5, after time on the beach in the morning, devote the rest of the day to nearby excursions. Numero uno is the Palácio Nacional de Queluz (p. 180), the most brilliant example of the rococo style of architecture in Portugal. After spending an hour and a half exploring the royal palace, dine at the Cozinha Velha (The Old Kitchen; p. 179), one of the most evocative in the area and the former kitchen of the old palace. Later that afternoon head for Guincho (p. 176) to take in the treacherous ocean scenery, some of the most dramatic in Europe. Return to Cascais for the night. Day 6 Óbidos , Alcobaça & Batalha If you can’t visit all of these attractions in 1 day, make it to Óbidos and Alcobaça on Day 6, and stop off at Batalha en route to Coimbra on Day 7. To see the most enchanting medieval town in all of Portugal, continue north from Lisbon for 93km (58 miles) to Óbidos, or a shorter distance if you overnighted in Cascais. If you leave the Greater Lisbon area early enough, you can be in Óbidos in time for 2 hours of sightseeing, followed by lunch at the Castelo de Óbidos (p. 211), the most famous restaurant—and justifiably so—in Portugal. Leave Óbidos after lunch and drive to Alcobaça, 38km (24 miles) northeast of Óbidos. Once here, you can spend an hour visiting the Mosteiro de Santa
Best Portugal Itineraries 0
30 mi
0
50 km
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N N101
Bragança
Viana do Castelo Braga N103
10
Porto
Vila Real
N102
N2
E802
Aveiro
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Viseu Guarda Coimbra 9
Figueira da Foz E80 E1
Leiria Batalha Peniche
Fátima
11 8 12 7
Nazaré N109
Castelo Branco
13
Tomar
Rio Tejo
N118
6
Santarém
Cabo Espichel
1
LISBON 18 19
Setúbal
17
N120
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E90 N4
N18
Évora 15 E1 N18 E802
Cabo de Sines
Elvas
Beja 16
Sines
oG ua di an a
4
Cascais
Ri
N259 N120
s)
THE BEST IN TWO WEEKS Cáceres Day 8 10 Porto Day 9 11 Nazaré Badajoz 12 Fátima Day 10 Mérida 13 Tomar 14 Elvas Day 11 15 Évora Day 12 16 Beja Day 13 17 Setúbal 18 Palmela Day 12 19 Sesimbra
E1 N264 Cabo de S. Vicente
Portimão
Sagres Lagos
Vila Real de S. António
Faro
E1
Huelva
N125
Olhão
Seville
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Estoril
Sintra 2 5 3
Portalegre
(River Tagu
ro THE BEST IN ue oD ONERiWEEK Days 1-3 1 Lisbon 2 Sintra Day 4 3 Cascais 4 Estoril Day 5 5 Guincho Day 6 6 Óbidos S7 P A I N Alcobaça 8 Batalha Day 7 9 Coimbra
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Rio Douro
Espinho
SUGGESTED PORTUGAL ITINERARIES
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Maria (p. 215), once one of the richest and most prestigious monasteries in Europe, dating from 1178. Seek out, in particular, its lavish Gothic tombs. After a visit, continue northeast to Batalha, spending an hour and a half exploring its Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitória (p. 222). Still celebrated for its royal cloisters to this day, in the 14th century this was the most luxurious and grandest monastery in all of Portugal— much of its former glory remains. Accommodations are limited in both Alcobaça and Batalha. If you didn’t make reservations in advance in summer, you might have to continue to our final stop, the city of Coimbra, for the night (see below). Day 7 Coimbra: The University City Outside of Lisbon and the second city of Porto, Portugal’s most romantic and his-
toric city is Coimbra, lying 198km (123 miles) north of Lisbon. It can be easily reached from Óbidos, Alcobaça, or Batalha, if you stopped at either of these places on Day 6. In 1 full day of sightseeing, you can take in Coimbra’s major monuments, including Sé Velha, the old cathedral (p. 300), and Universidade de Colmbra (p. 300), the university that was founded here in 1537. Also of interest are the Biblioteca Geral da Universidade, the university library (p. 301), established in 1716, and Igreja e Mosteiro da Santa Cruz (p. 300), dating from the 12th century. Overnight in Coimbra before making the 11⁄2-hour drive to Lisbon in the morning for transportation back home.
2 PORTUGAL IN 2 WEEKS With 2 weeks to explore the country, you aren’t as rushed, of course, as you might have been with the agenda proposed above. With more breathing time, you can visit the second city of Portugal, Porto, as well as some of the more intriguing destinations in the plains, especially the historic city of Évora. Days 1 to 7 Refer to the 1-week itinerary outlined above. Day 8 Porto: Port Wine & the Gateway to the North After leaving Coimbra, continue north to the city of Porto, a distance of 116km (72 miles). Plan on arriving in the late morning, so you’ll have time to take our walking tour (p. 331) of the inner core of this old city on the water. Porto is known, of course, as the main distribution center of port wine. Sampling port and touring the wine lodges is the main reason to come here. If you have time to visit only one lodge, we recommend Caves
Ramos Pinto (p. 329), one of the most famous and one of the best. If you have time left over for a second visit to a lodge, we suggest Porto Sandeman (p. 330). After touring some lodges, plan a festive dinner at one of the city’s highly rated restaurants, such as Restaurante Portucale (p. 341). If that is beyond your budget, you’ll find plenty of local taverns serving good-tasting and affordable fare. Day 9 Nazaré & Fátima If you have another week, the north of Portugal, lying above Porto, awaits you. But if you have to confine your schedule to 2 weeks, we suggest a return south to
Day @ Beja: Capital of Baixo Alentejo Leave Évora in the morning and drive 76km (47 miles) south to the ancient city of Beja, which, it is said, was founded by Julius Caesar. After checking into a hotel, you can spend the rest of the morning wandering its colorful streets. After a typical lunch in a local restaurant, visit the Museu Rainha Dona Leonor (p. 288) in the afternoon, followed by a trip to the 14th-century ruins of Castelo de Beja (p. 288). If time remains, shop for handicrafts along Rua Capital João Francisco de Sousa in the town center. Day # Setúbal & Palmela On the morning of Day 13, leave Beja and head northwest to the old city of Setúbal, a distance of 144km (89 miles). At Setúbal, you’ll be only 40km (25 miles) southeast of Lisbon. After checking into a hotel here, we suggest you drive to Palmela, a distance of 8km (5 miles)
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Day 0 Tomar & Elvas Depending on your base for the previous night, either Nazaré or Fátima, you can begin Day 10 by driving to the southeast of Fátima to explore the old city of Tomar, a distance of 39km (24 miles). Tomar was the former headquarters of the Knights Templar, and its attractions, mainly Convento da Ordem de Cristo (p. 272), can be explored in 2 hours. You might stay in Tomar for lunch before heading on, striking out this time to the southeast to visit the city of Elvas, a distance of 229km (142 miles). You should arrive in the midafternoon. After checking into a hotel for the night, set out on foot to explore the attractions of Elvas (coverage begins on p. 280), wandering its narrow, cobblestone streets. Elvas boasts a good pousada and some fine estalagems (inns) for overnighting.
Day ! Évora: Capital of Alto Alentejo On the morning of Day 11, drive southwest from Elvas to the city of Évora, a distance of 85km (53 miles). This city of bubbling fountains, whitewashed houses, and cobblestoned streets will be the highlight of your tour of the Portuguese plains. After checking into a hotel for the night, set out to explore the main attractions, which include the Templo de Diana (p. 284); the Sé, or cathedral (p. 284); and the Igreja de São João Evangelista (p. 284). In spite of the charm of these particular sites, the real allure of Évora is the beautiful city itself. It is filled with monuments from the 14th to the 16th centuries, and most of these can be enjoyed simply by strolling its streets. Évora also boasts the best and most atmospheric accommodations in this part of western Portugal. Our favorite place to stay here is Pousada de Évora Lóios (p. 285), a historical monument from the 15th century that nonetheless contains modern conveniences.
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hit the highlights before driving back to Lisbon. On the morning of Day 9, you face a choice: either drive to the fishing port of Nazaré (coverage begins on p. 218), a distance of 217km (135 miles) south of Porto, or, especially if you’re Catholic, head south to Fátima (coverage begins on p. 223), a distance of 191km (119 miles) from Porto. Nazaré and Fátima are two completely different experiences. Nazaré is the most famous fishing village in the country, and it also has some of Portugal’s best beaches. You can make a day of it wandering this ancient port and watching the fishing boats come in with their catch, or lounging on the sands. Be sure to budget some time to shop for some of the famous Nazaré fishermen’s sweaters, too. Conversely, if your interests are more religious than secular, descend on Fátima, world famous as a pilgrimage site because the Virgin Mary was said to have appeared here in the early 20th century. The faithful from all over the world flock here to see the Chapel of the Apparitions (p. 224).
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north of Setúbal for lunch in the Castelo de Palmela Pousada (p. 206), one of the best government-run country inns in Portugal. You can also overnight here if you prefer not to spend the night in Setúbal. After lunch, return to Setúbal for your exploration of this old city, said to have been founded by a grandson of Noah. Its chief attraction is the Convento de Jesús (p. 202), a stellar example of 15th-century Manueline architecture. You can also visit Museu da Setúbal (p. 202) in the afternoon, and perhaps shop for local handicrafts (our suggestions begin on p. 204). Factory tours are available in the environs of Setúbal for those who want to make the trek. Day $ Sesimbra on Your Return to Lisbon Spend a leisurely Day 14 by driving back along the coast south of the Tagus to Lisbon,
where you can overnight before departing Portugal. After leaving Setúbal in the morning, drive west along the southern coast, enjoying the mountain scenery of the Serra de Arrábida. The fishing village of Portinho da Arrábida makes a good luncheon stopover if you got a late start from Setúbal—its coastal road features lots of sandy coves, perfect for exploring if the weather’s nice. Your major stopover for the day can be the little resort and fishing village of Sesimbra (p. 197), lying 26km (16 miles) southwest of Setúbal and 43km (27 miles) south of Lisbon. You can spend at least 2 hours wandering its harbor and exploring its streets, including a walk along the ruined battlements of the ancient Castle of Sesimbra (p. 198). Afterward, you can make the half-hour drive north to Lisbon.
3 P O R T U G A L F O R FA M I L I E S The trick to planning an itinerary for your family is choosing attractions that’ll amuse young ones, but balancing those with some museum hopping and church going (kids might just marvel at the art and architecture). Below are some suggestions on how to achieve that happy balance between so-called adult attractions and amusements for kids. Day 1 Lisbon: Gateway to Portugal Arrive early in the morning, if possible, for a full day of sightseeing. After checking into a family-friendly hotel, head for Castelo de São Jorge (p. 124), crowning the historic Alfama with its narrow, winding streets. Allow at least an hour to visit the castle (which might remind your kids of the one at Disney), followed by another hour walking around the district—perhaps even getting momentarily lost in the narrow streets of the old Alfama. After lunch, take your kids by train to the suburb of Belém where the entire family should be fascinated by the flamboyant Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (p. 126). Allow an hour. This can be followed by
two kid-pleasing attractions, Museu de Marinha, the maritime museum (p. 128), and Museu Nacional dos Coches, the national coach museum (p. 129), which will hold fascination for adults as well. Return to your hotel in the heart of Lisbon for the night. Day 2 Sintra: Glorious Eden For a change of pace, take the train to Sintra, only 29km (18 miles) northwest of Lisbon where the very town itself, with its parks, palaces, and gardens, is a treat for people of all ages. In the morning, visit the Palácio Nacional de Sintra (p. 184), where kids should delight in wandering around the former palace of the Moorish sultans.
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Later in the afternoon, visit Castelo dos Mouros (p. 182), a former Moorish stronghold dating from the 8th century. Return to Lisbon for the night. Day 3 Another Day in Lisbon In one very busy day you can visit the Jardim Zoológico de Lisboa (p. 138) in the morning, with its 2,000 animals roaming a 26-hectare (64-acre) setting. You can also rent a rowboat for an hour or so and take your kids for a ride across the lake. Later, you can visit the Oceanário de Lisboa (p. 137), the second-largest aquarium in the world. Kids delight in coming within arm’s length of such critters as penguins, sharks, or playful sea otters. The Oceanário lies within the Parque das Nações, which is a virtual playground for children, with rides, an interactive science museum, and fairgrounds. In the afternoon you can visit the Planetário Calouste Gulbenkian (p. 138), with astronomical shows throughout the day that should appeal to the entire family. You can spend the rest of the afternoon at Jardim da Estrela, which is perfect for a family outing. It boasts duck ponds and lush flora, as well as playgrounds for children. Day 4 Beach Fun along Costa do Sol While still based in Lisbon, you can plan Day 4 at the beach along Lisbon’s Riviera. Sunny days are almost guaranteed here in July and August. A train from Estação Cais do Sodré will put you in Estoril in only 30 minutes, with continuing service to the former fishing village (now resort) of Cascais. You can get off the train in Estoril and wander its Parque Estoril in the center of town (it’s been called “a corner of Africa”) before descending on the beach for 2 hours or so. After time on the sands, take the train’s continuing service to Cascais, where you can have a seafood lunch in one of the
town’s affordable taverns. Cascais is a far more architecturally intriguing town to explore than Estoril, and parents and their children can spend at least 2 hours traversing its narrow streets and taking walks along the harborfront where fishing boats bob. Kids will also be fascinated by the Museu do Mar (p. 167), with its marine artifacts and model boats. Later in the day, you can rent a car to Cabo da Roca (p. 176), at nearby Guincho, to see some of the most turbulent and dramatic Atlantic Ocean scenery in Portugal. After a day of sightseeing, you can drive back to Lisbon for the night. Day 5 Óbidos , Alcobaça & Nazaré On the morning of Day 5, leave Lisbon and drive north to Portugal’s most enchanting village, the walled town of Óbidos, a distance of 93km (58 miles). Again your child may think this medieval city, with its golden towers, crenellated battlements, and ramparts, a creation of the Disney factory. Spend 2 hours exploring the town, climaxed by a lunch at the Castelo de Óbidos (p. 211). After lunch, continue northeast to Alcobaça, a distance of 38km (24 miles). Although it’s one of Portugal’s grandest monuments, and is certainly an adult attraction, kids often stand in awe as they wander through Mosteiro de Santa Maria (p. 215), one of the most impressive Gothic monasteries in the country. Allow an hour to explore it. Afterward, head 13km (8 miles) northwest to the fishing village of Nazaré. Nazaré isn’t blessed with a lot of familyfriendly inns; your best possibility is Hotel Praia (p. 220), rising six floors and overlooking the port’s best beach. Spend some time on the harborfront, watching the fishing boats pull in for the evening with the day’s catch; or head to the Sítio, the upper town, to wander through its narrow streets. By early nightfall, a family seafood dinner is in order.
Day 7 Porto: City on the Douro River In the morning of Day 7, leave Coimbra and continue north for 116km (72 miles) until you reach the city of Porto. Then take the family on our walking tour of town (p. 331). After you finish, you can have lunch in one of the local taverns (most serve seafood). After lunch, visit Torre dos Clérigos (p. 329), dating from 1754 and rising to a height of 76m (249 ft.). You can climb the 225 steps to the top for one of the finest views of a cityscape in the north of Portugal. You can fly back to Lisbon in the early evening, or you can overnight in Porto (returning your rental car, of course) and fly back to Lisbon the next morning for an onward connection. Flight time is about 40 minutes.
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Day 1 Sagres: The Southwestern Corner of Europe This is the port where Henry the Navigator launched Portugal upon its era of exploration, which led to colonies around the world. After checking into a hotel or local pousada, set out to explore the surrounding cape, which ancient people thought marked the end of the world. After spending 30 minutes or so at the
Fortaleza de Sagres (p. 228), drive 5km (3 miles) to the promontory of Cabo de São Vicente (p. 228). It was from this cape that Vasco de Gama launched his caravels to discover the world. You can spend 2 hours or so exploring the cape and its dramatic ocean scenery with wind-tossed waves. (One good way to discover the cape is by biking.) If time remains in the day, you can take in some beach action. Our
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Rocky coves and long, sandy beaches characterize the southern tier of Portugal, the former stronghold of the Moors during their occupation of the country. Though uncontrolled tourist development has destroyed much of the old charm of this part of Portugal, much remains to enchant. Not all the towns of interest lie along the water, as many are inland, including such scattered attractions as the Roman ruins at Estói (north of Faro) or the old Moorish town of Silves, within easy reach of Portimão. You can rent a car in Lisbon and make the 280km (174-mile) drive to Sagres, the so-called “end of the world” in the western Algarve to begin this tour. Those on a more rushed schedule can fly to Faro, capital of the Algarve, and rent a car there. If that is the case, use Faro as a base for 2 days, so that you’ll have time to explore the environs, and then head west to Sagres—basically you’ll be doing this tour in reverse.
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Day 6 Coimbra: Youthful Exuberance The crown jewel of the three Beiras, this is a city peopled in part by backpackers and students (many of whom appear in medieval costumes on the street at night as singing “tuna,” as their groups are called). From Nazaré, it’s an easy drive to the northeast, a distance of 110km (69 miles) to Coimbra. Plan to overnight here, perhaps at the moderately priced Hotel Astória (p. 303). You can walk with your kids through the Universidade de Cambra (p. 300), and duck into the Igreja e Mosteiro da Santa Cruz (p. 300), but they’ll probably be most interested in Portugal dos Pequenitos (p. 301). This is “Portugal for the Little Ones,” a re-creation of buildings from every province in miniature, including everything from windmills to castles and palaces, even an Indian temple.
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favorite is Mareta, but countless other beaches dot the peninsula around Sagres. See chapter 9. Days 2 & 3: Lagos & Portimão On Day 2, leave Sagres in the morning and drive 34km (21 miles) east to reach the ancient port city of Lagos. Historically a port of call for the sailors of Admiral Nelson’s fleet, Lagos can be visited in 2 hours. In the town itself, its single major attraction is Igreja de Santo António (p. 232), dating from the 18th century and containing remarkable baroque gilt carvings. Allow 30 minutes for a visit. Spend another hour or so wandering the streets of the old town, poking into courtyards and ducking into shops looking for handicrafts. The Old Customs House, Antigo Mercado de Escravos (p. 232), was the site of the arcaded slave market, the largest in Portugal. Before leaving the area, drive 2km (11⁄4 miles) to Ponta da Piedade (p. 232), one of the most beautiful spots of the western Algarve. Enjoy a lunch in Lagos at Os Arcos Marisqueira, then continue east toward the bustling fishing port of Portimão, lying 18km (11 miles) to the east of Lagos. Frugal travelers can seek affordable lodgings in Portimão itself, and others can stay at one of the surrounding beach resorts such as Praia da Rocha, which has the most options. After checking into a hotel, you can explore Portimão itself or spend the afternoon at Praia da Rocha’s beach (p. 238), 3km (13⁄4 miles) from the center of Portimão. If you’d rather play golf, you’ll find some good courses here (see “Golf,” p. 238). On the morning of Day 3, while still based in the Portimão area, set out on a voyage of exploration of your own. Our favorite excursion is to the mountain range of Monchique (coverage begins on p. 244). After a morning of driving through the mountains, have lunch at the
Estalagem Abrigo de Montanha (p. 244). In the afternoon, you can head for Silves (coverage begins on p. 245) for 3 hours of wandering about. Lying inland, Silves is reached after an 18km (11-mile) drive to the northeast of Portimão. Its chief attractions are the red-sandstone Castelo dos Mouros (p. 245) and the 13th-century Cathedral of Silves (p. 246). Because Silves was the capital of the Moorish kings and is an ancient site, we suggest spending ample time—at least 11⁄2 hours—poking about its streets. Return to Portimão or Praia da Rocha for the night. Day 4 Albufeira: The St. Tropez of Portugal On the morning of Day 4, leave the Portimão area and drive 28km (18 miles) east to the cliffside town and old fishing village of Albufeira (p. 247). Resembling a village in North Africa, Albufeira is at the center of one of the great beachside tourist developments in all of Portugal. Your choice of hotel for the night can be in Albufeira itself or in Quarteira (p. 253) farther on, or perhaps around Almancil (p. 257), with its dramatic resorts Vale do Lobo and Quinta do Lago. Of course, you may decide never to leave Albufeira itself, as it offers some of the best beaches in the Algarve, notably Falésia. Golfers can get in a game at Pine Cliffs (p. 248) or drive over to one of the courses outside Quarteira. Especially good are Vila Sol (p. 254) and Vilamoura Old Course (p. 254). The finest concentration of restaurants in all of the Algarve is also found in this area, especially if you want to dine deluxe. Days 5 & 6 Faro: Capital of the Algarve On the morning of Day 5, leave the Albufeira area, driving 38km (24 miles) east to Faro. Here you can check into a hotel for 2 nights as you set out to discover not only
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Faro itself but a number of colorful satellite towns. After leaving your hotel, you can go on a 2-hour walk through the ancient streets of Faro, taking in the Capela dos Ossos or Chapel of Bones (p. 262) and the old Sé (or cathedral; p. 263). Faro’s museums are of only minor interest but it’s worth exploring the town’s major shopping streets, Rua Santo António and Rua Francisco Gomes, and stopping at the Mercado de Faro (p. 263), the town’s best market. After lunch in Faro, head for Praia de Faro, Faro’s major beach, in the afternoon. While still based in Faro, head out on a driving tour in the morning of Day 6. The best road-trip possibilities include a stopover in the old market town of Loulé, lying 15km (91⁄3 miles) north of Faro and in the heart of the Algarve’s chimney district. Fret-cut plaster towers rise from many of this town’s cottages and houses. These are our favorite chimneys in all of Europe, and you can purchase miniatures of them as souvenirs. The town also features two worthy attractions, the Igreja de São Clemente, Matriz de Loulé (p. 265) and the ruins of its old Moorish castelo (p. 265). For lunch, we suggest that you drive to São Brás de Alportel, 20km (13 miles) north of Faro—it’s one of the most beautiful spots in the Algarve. There you can dine in the rustic dining room of the Pousada de São Brás (p. 266). En route back to Faro for the night, stop off in the little town of Estói (p. 267) where you can explore the grounds of the baroque Palácio do Visconde de Estói (p. 267). The drive back to Faro is 8km (5 miles) to the south, heading toward the coast.
Day 7 Vila Real de Santo António On the morning of Day 7, leave Faro and plan to drive 85km (53 miles) east to the border town of Vila Real, adjoining the Spanish frontier. En route here, you can make two stopovers—first, at Olhão, a distance of 10km (6 miles) east of Faro. Beloved by painters, this is the famous cubist town of the Algarve, so called because its homes are stacked like white blocks one upon the other. You can easily spend 2 hours wandering its ancient streets, which are very evocative of North Africa. After a visit, continue east toward Tavira, a distance of 31km (19 miles) east of Faro. On the banks of the Ségua and Gilão rivers, you can spend another 11⁄2 hours wandering the streets of this town. Because of its many canals, the town is likened to Venice, but that, of course, is a gross exaggeration. You can see a sevenarched Roman bridge and many arches, as well as flamboyant chimney decorations. Wander also to the fruit and vegetable market along the river esplanade. After lunch here, drive on to Vila Real de Santo António (p. 268) for the night, a distance of 23km (14 miles). After checking into a hotel, set out to explore the streets of the town, good examples of 18th-century town planning. Then try to visit either the Museu de Manuel Cabanas or the castle-fortress of Castro Marim (p. 269). If you have time remaining in the day, you can head southwest of Vila Real to check out the beaches of Monte Gordo (p. 269), lying 4km (21⁄2 miles) to the southwest of Vila Real at the mouth of the Guadiana River. Return to Vila Real for the night, and depart for Lisbon the following morning.
Settling into Lisbon In its golden age, Lisbon gained a reputation as the eighth wonder of the world. Travelers returning from the city boasted that its riches rivaled those of Venice. As one of the greatest maritime centers in history, the Portuguese capital imported exotic wares from the far-flung corners of its empire. Treasures from Asia—including porcelain, luxurious silks, rubies, pearls, and other rare gems—arrived at Indian seaports on Chinese junks and eventually found their way to Lisbon. The abundance and variety of spices from the East, such as turmeric, ginger, pepper, cumin, and betel, rivaled even Keats’s vision of “silken Samarkand.” From the Americas came red dyewood (brazilwood), coffee, gold, diamonds, and other gemstones. The extensive contact signaled a new era in world trade, and Lisbon sat at the center of a great maritime empire, a hub of commerce for Europe, Africa, and Asia. In the first decade of the new millennium, and after a slumber that lasted for most of the 20th century, there is a new Lisbon awaiting you today. Some of that is good news and some of it isn’t—at least for traditionalists. Although some medieval facades and old palaces have been restored, others have given way to modern office blocks and more impersonal structures, which have replaced many of the 19thcentury Art Nouveau buildings that were so much a part of the cityscape. Some of the famous old trams from years ago are still seen on the streets, but they are gradually being replaced by newer, more streamlined, and much faster trams. If you’re visiting Lisbon for the first time, you’ll find that the Vasco da Gama Bridge of the
Tagus, dating from 1998, has sped up access to other areas of Portugal, including Alentejo province, and also made it easier to reach Spain. A BIT OF BACKGROUND Many Lisboans claim unabashedly that Ulysses founded their city. Others, with perhaps a more scholarly bent, maintain that the Phoenicians or the Carthaginians were the original settlers. The Romans settled in Lisbon in about 205 b.c., later building a fortification on the site of what is now St. George’s Castle. The Visigoths captured the city in the 5th century a.d.; in 714, centuries of Moorish domination began. The first king of Portugal, Afonso Henríques, captured Lisbon from the Moors in 1147. But it wasn’t until 1256 that Afonso III moved the capital here, deserting Coimbra, now the country’s major university city. The Great Earthquake occurred at 9:40am on All Saints’ Day, November 1, 1755. “From Scotland to Asia Minor, people ran out of doors and looked at the sky, and fearfully waited. It was, of course, an earthquake,” chronicled Holiday magazine. Tidal waves 15m (49 ft.) high swept over Algeciras, Spain. The capitals of Europe shook. Some 22 aftershocks followed. Roofs caved in; hospitals (with more than 1,000 patients), prisons, public buildings, royal palaces, aristocratic town houses, fishers’ cottages, churches, and houses of prostitution all were toppled. Overturned candles helped ignite a fire that consumed the once-proud capital in just 6 days, leaving it in gutted, charred shambles. Voltaire described the destruction in Candide: “The sea boiled up in the harbor and smashed the vessels lying at anchor. Whirlwinds of flame and ashes
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covered the streets and squares, houses collapsed, roofs were thrown onto foundations and the foundations crumbled.” All told, 30,000 inhabitants were crushed beneath the tumbling debris. When the survivors of the initial shocks ran from their burning homes toward the mighty Tagus, they were met with walls of water 12m (39 ft.) high. Estimates vary, but approximately 60,000 drowned or died in the 6-day holocaust. After the ashes had settled, the Marquês de Pombal, the prime minister, ordered that the dead be buried and the city rebuilt at once. To accomplish that ambitious plan, the king gave him virtually dictatorial powers. What Pombal ordered constructed was a city of wide, symmetrical boulevards leading into handsome squares dominated by fountains and statuary. Bordering these wide avenues would be black-and-white mosaic sidewalks, the most celebrated in Europe. Today, the mixture of old and “new” (post-earthquake) here is so harmonious that travelers consider Lisbon one of the most beautiful cities on earth. Fountains abound; one, the Samaritan, dates from the 16th century. The boulevards flank new high-rise apartment houses, while in other quarters, laundry hanging from 18th-century houses flaps in the wind. The Tagus, the river flowing through Lisbon, has been called the city’s eternal lover—and in many ways it is the most vital part of the city. From the Bairro Alto (Upper City), cable cars run down to the waterfront, where boats from Africa unload their freight. This is also a city that gives nicknames to everything, from its districts to its kings. Fernando, who built one of the most characteristic walls around Lisbon, was honored with the appellation “the Beautiful.” Streets bear colorful names or designations, such as Rua do Açúcar (Street of Sugar). Praça do Comércio, the bull’s-eye center of the Lisbon waterfront, is also known as Black Horse Square.
Many who have never been to Lisbon know it well from watching World War II spy movies on TV. In the classic film Casablanca, Lisbon embodied the passage point to the Americas for refugees stranded in northern Africa. During the war, Lisbon, officially neutral, was a hotbed of intrigue and espionage. It was also a haven for thousands of refugees, including deposed royalty. LISBON TODAY No longer the provincial town it was as late as the 1970s, postmillennium Lisbon has blossomed into a cosmopolitan city often beset with construction pains. Many of its old structures are simply falling apart and must be either restored or replaced. Some of the formerly clogged streets of the Baixa have been turned into cobblestone pedestrian malls. Lisbon is growing and evolving, and the city is considerably more sophisticated than it once was, no doubt due in part to Portugal’s joining the European Union (E.U.). The smallest capital of Europe is no longer a backwater at the far corner of Iberia. Some 1.8 million people now live in Lisbon, and many of its citizens, having drifted in from the far corners of the world, don’t even speak Portuguese. Textiles, shoes, clothing, china, and earthenware are among its leading industries. Sections along Avenida da Liberdade, the main street of Lisbon, at times evoke thoughts of Paris. As in Paris, sidewalk portrait painters will sketch your likeness, and artisans will offer you jewelry claiming that it’s gold (when you both know it isn’t). Handicrafts, from embroidery to leatherwork, are peddled right on the streets as they are in New York. Consider an off-season visit, especially in the spring or fall, when the city enjoys glorious weather. The city isn’t overrun with visitors then, and you can wander about and take in its attractions without being trampled or broiled during the hot, humid weather of July and August.
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1 ESSENTIALS ARRIVING Foreign and domestic flights land at Lisbon’s Aeroporto de Lisboa (& 21/841-35-00; www.ana-aeroportos.pt), about 6.5km (4 miles) from the heart of the city. An AERO-BUS runs between the airport and the Cais do Sodré train station every 20 minutes from 7:45am to 8:15pm. The fare is 3.50€. It makes 10 intermediate stops, including Praça dos Restauradores and Praça do Comércio. There’s no charge for luggage. Taxi passengers line up in a usually well-organized queue at the sidewalk in front of the airport, or you can call Rádio Táxi at & 21/811-90-00. The average taxi fare from the airport to central Lisbon is 12€. Each piece of luggage is 1.60€ extra. For ticket sales, flight reservations, and information about the city and the country, you can get in touch with the Lisboa personnel of TAP Air Portugal, Loja Gare do Oriente, Edifìcio Estação do Oriente, Avenida de Berlim, 1998 Lisboa (& 70/720-5700 for reservations; www.tap-airportugal.pt). BY TRAIN Most international rail passengers from Madrid and Paris arrive at the Estação da Santa Apolónia, Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, the major terminal. It’s by the Tagus near the Alfama district. Two daily trains make the 10-hour run from Madrid to Lisbon. Rail lines from northern and eastern Portugal also arrive at this station. EXPO ’98 brought a new, modern terminal to Lisbon. Connected to the Metro system and opened in 1998, Gare de Oriente at Expo Urbe is the hub for some long-distance and suburban trains, including service to such destinations as Porto, Sintra, the Beiras, Minho, and the Douro. At the Estação do Rossio, between Praça dos Restauradores and Praça de Dom Pedro IV, you can get trains to Sintra. The Estação do Cais do Sodré, just beyond the south end of Rua Alecrim, east of Praça do Comércio, handles trains to Cascais and Estoril on the Costa do Sol. Finally, you can catch a ferry at Sul e Sueste, next to the Praça do Comércio. It runs across the Tagus to the suburb of Barreiro; at the station there, Estação do Barreiro, you can catch a train for the Algarve and Alentejo. For all rail information, at any of the terminals above, call & 80/820-82-08 (www.cp.pt) between 7am and 11pm daily. BY BUS Buses from all over Portugal, including the Algarve, arrive at the Rodoviária da Sete Rios (& 21/358-14-81; www.rede-expressos.pt). If your hotel is in Estoril or Cascais, you can take bus no. 1, which goes on to the Cais do Sodré. At least six buses a day leave for Lagos, a gateway to the Algarve, and nine buses head north every day to Porto. There are 14 daily buses to Coimbra, the university city to the north. One-way fare from Lagos to Lisbon is 18€. BY CAR International motorists must arrive through Spain, the only nation connected to Portugal by road. You’ll have to cross Spanish border points, which usually pose no great difficulty. The roads are moderately well maintained. From Madrid, if you head west, the main road (N620) from Tordesillas goes southwest by way of Salamanca and Ciudad Rodrigo and reaches the Portuguese frontier at Fuentes de Onoro. Most of the country’s 15 border crossings are open daily from 7am to midnight. See “Getting Around” below for info on car-rental agencies in the city.
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ESSENTIALS
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VISITOR INFORMATION
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The main tourist office in Lisbon is at the Palácio da Foz, Praça dos Restauradores (& 21/12-05-050; www.visitportugal.com), at the Baixa end of Avenida da Liberdade. Open daily from 9am to 8pm (Metro: Restauradores), it sells the Lisbon Card, which provides free city transportation and entrance fees to museums and other attractions, plus discounts on admission to events. For adults, a 1-day pass costs 16€, a 2-day pass costs 27€, and a 3-day pass costs 34€. Children 5 to 11 pay 9.50€ for a 1-day pass, 14€ for a 2-day pass, and 17€ for a 3-day pass. Another tourist office is located across from the general post office in Lisbon on Rua do Arsenal 15, 1100-038 Lisbon (& 21/031-27-00; www.visitlisboa.com). This tourist office is open daily from 9am to 7pm.
CITY LAYOUT Lisbon is the westernmost capital of continental Europe. According to legend, it spreads across seven hills, like Rome. That statement has long been outdated—Lisbon now sprawls across more hills than that. Most of the city lies on the north bank of the Tagus. No one ever claimed that getting around Lisbon was a breeze. Streets rise and fall across the hills, at times dwindling into mere alleyways. Exploring the city, however, is well worth the effort. Lisbon is best approached through its gateway, Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square), bordering the Tagus. It’s one of the most perfectly planned squares in Europe, rivaled only by the Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia in Trieste, Italy. Before the 1755 earthquake, Praça do Comércio was known as Terreiro do Paço, the Palace Grounds, because the king and his court lived in now-destroyed buildings on that site. To confuse matters further, English-speaking residents often refer to it as Black Horse Square because of its statue (actually a bronze-green color) of José I. Today the square is the site of the Stock Exchange and various government ministries. Its center is used as a parking lot, which destroys some of its harmony. In 1908, Carlos I and his elder son, Luís Filipe, were fatally shot here by an assassin. The monarchy held on for another 2 years, but the House of Bragança effectively came to an end that day. Directly west of the square stands the City Hall, fronting Praça do Município. The building, erected in the late 19th century, was designed by the architect Domingos Parente. Heading north from Black Horse or Commerce Square, you enter the hustle and bustle of Praça de Dom Pedro IV, popularly known as the Rossio. The “drunken” undulation of the sidewalks, with their arabesques of black and white, have led to the appellation “the dizzy praça.” Here you can sit sipping strong unblended coffee from the former Portuguese provinces in Africa. The statue on the square is that of the Portugueseborn emperor of Brazil. Opening onto the Rossio is the Teatro Nacional de Dona Maria II, a free-standing building whose facade has been preserved. From 1967 to 1970, workers gutted the interior to rebuild it completely. If you arrive by train, you’ll enter the Estação do Rossio, whose exuberant Manueline architecture is worth seeing. Separating the Rossio from Avenida da Liberdade is Praça dos Restauradores, named in honor of the Restoration, when the Portuguese chose their own king and freed themselves from 60 years of Spanish rule. An obelisk commemorates the event. MAIN STREETS & SQUARES
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5 ESSENTIALS
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NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF
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Lisbon’s main avenue is Avenida da Liberdade (Avenue of Liberty). The handsomely laid-out street dates from 1880. Avenida da Liberdade is like a 1.5km-long (1 mile) park, with shade trees, gardens, and center walks for the promenading crowds. Flanking it are fine shops, the headquarters of many major airlines, travel agents, coffeehouses with sidewalk tables, and hotels. The comparable street in Paris is the Champs-Elysées; in Rome, it’s via Vittorio Veneto. At the top of the avenue is Praça do Marquês de Pombal, with a statue erected in honor of the 18th-century prime minister credited with Lisbon’s reconstruction in the aftermath of the earthquake. Proceeding north, you’ll enter Parque Eduardo VII, named in honor of the son of Queen Victoria, who paid a state visit to Lisbon. In the park is the Estufa Fria, a greenhouse well worth a visit. FINDING AN ADDRESS Finding an address in the old quarters of Lisbon is difficult because street numbering at times follows no predictable pattern. When trying to locate an address, always ask for the nearest cross street before setting out. Addresses consist of a street name followed by a number. Sometimes the floor of the building is given as well. For example, Avenida Casal Ribeiro 18 3 means that the building is at number 18 and the address is on the third floor. See p. 414 in chapter 16 for more tips on addresses. STREET MAPS Arm yourself with a good city map before setting out. Maps with complete indexes of streets are available at most newsstands and kiosks. Those given away by tourist offices and hotels aren’t adequate because they don’t show the maze of little streets.
NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF Baixa The business district of Lisbon, Baixa contains much Pombaline-style architecture. (The term refers to the prime minister who rebuilt Lisbon following the earthquake.) Many major Portuguese banks are headquartered here. Running south, the main street of Baixa separates Praça do Comércio from the Rossio. A triumphal arch leads from the square to Rua Augusta, lined with many clothing stores. The two most important streets of Baixa are Rua da Prata (Street of Silver) and Rua Áurea, formerly called Rua do Oro (Street of Gold). Silversmiths and goldsmiths are located on these streets. Chiado If you head west from Baixa, you’ll enter this shopping district. From its perch on a hill, it’s traversed by Rua Garrett, named for the noted romantic writer João Batista de Almeida Garrett (1799–1854). Many of the finest shops
in the city, such as the Vista Alegre, a china and porcelain house, are here. One coffeehouse in particular, A Brasileira, has been a traditional gathering spot for the Portuguese literati. Bairro Alto Continuing your ascent, you’ll arrive at the Bairro Alto (Upper City). This sector, reached by trolley car, occupies one of the legendary seven hills of Lisbon. Many of its buildings were left fairly intact by the 1755 earthquake. Containing much of the charm and color of the Alfama, it’s the location of some of the finest fado (meaning “fate” and describing a type of music) clubs in Lisbon, as well as excellent restaurants and bars. There are also antiques shops. Regrettably, many of the side streets at night are peopled with drug dealers and addicts, so be duly warned.
2 GETTING AROUND Central Lisbon is relatively compact and, because of heavy traffic, it’s best explored by foot. That’s virtually the only way to see such districts as the Alfama. However, when you venture farther afield, such as to Belém, you’ll need to depend on public transportation like trams, which are inexpensive but often slow. Considering the hilly terrain and the fact that many of the streets were designed for donkey carts, though, the tram system works well. As one Frommer’s reader (Evamarie Doering, of Belmont, California) wrote, “In the 15 years since my last visit there, Lisbon has become one of the noisiest cities I’ve ever visited. Traffic is outrageous; driving is difficult because of the speed and the tendency of
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Museu Nacional dos Coches, the National Coach Museum, the finest of its kind in the world. Belém is Lisbon’s land of museums—it also contains the Museu de Arte Popular and the Museu de Marinha. Cacilhas On the south side of the Tagus, where puce-colored smoke billows from factory stacks, is the leftbank settlement of Cacilhas. Inhabited mainly by the working class, it’s often visited by right-bank residents who come here for the seafood restaurants. You can reach the settlement by way of a bridge or a ferryboat from Praça do Comércio. The most dramatic way to cross the Tagus is on the Ponte do 25 de Abril. Completed in 1966, the bridge helped open Portugal south of the Tagus. The bridge is 2.2km (11⁄2 miles) long, and its towers are 190m (623 ft.) high. The longest suspension bridge in Europe (it stretches for 16km/10 miles), Ponte Vasco da Gama, also spans the Tagus here. It’s made areas from the north of the country and the southern Algarve, to the east across the Alentejo plain to southern Spain, more accessible. Standing guard on the left bank is a monumental statue of Jesus with arms outstretched.
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The Alfama East of Praça do Comércio lies the oldest district, the Alfama. Saved only in part from the devastation of the 1755 earthquake, the Alfama was the Moorish section of the capital. Nowadays it’s home in some parts to stevedores, fishermen, and varinas (fishwives). Overlooking the Alfama is Castelo São Jorge, or St. George’s Castle, a Visigothic fortification that was later used by the Romans. On the way to the Alfama, on Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, stands another landmark, the Casa dos Bicos (House of the Pointed Stones), an early-16th-century town house whose facade is studded with diamondshape stones. Be careful of muggers in parts of the Alfama at night. Belém In the west, on the coastal road to Estoril, is the suburb of Belém. It contains some of the finest monuments in Portugal, several built during the Age of Discovery, near the point where the caravels set out to conquer new worlds. (At Belém, the Tagus reaches the sea.) At one time, before the earthquake, Belém was an aristocratic sector filled with elegant town houses. Two of the country’s principal attractions stand here: the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, a Manueline structure erected in the 16th century, and the
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the natives to ride 6 inches from your rear bumper. The buses, of which there are a great many, are very noisy, and produce volumes of smoke. Honking of car horns seems to be a national pastime.” Her description is, unfortunately, apt. Even the most skilled chauffeurs have been known to scrape the fenders of their clients’ rented limousines while maneuvering through the city’s narrow alleyways.
BY PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
S E T T L I N G I N TO L I S B O N
CARRIS (& 21/361-30-00; www.carris.pt) operates the network of funiculars, trains,
GETTING AROUND
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subways, and buses in Lisbon. The company sells a bilhete de assinatura turístico (tourist ticket). A 1-day pass goes for 3.70€. Passes are sold in CARRIS booths, open from 8am to 8pm daily, in most Metro stations and network train stations. You must show a passport to buy a pass. METRO Lisbon’s Metro stations are designated by large m signs. A single ticket costs .80€, a day pass 3.70€. One of the most popular trips—and likely to be jampacked on corrida (bullfight) days—is from Avenida da República to Campo Pequeno, the brick building away from the center of the city. Service runs daily from 6:30am to 1am. For more information, call & 21/350-01-15 (www.metrolisboa.pt). Surprisingly, riding the Lisbon Metro is like visiting an impressive art collection. Paintings, glazed tiles, and sculptures make for an underground museum. You’ll see interesting collections of contemporary art, including some works by famous Portuguese artists such as Maria Keil and Maria Helena Vieira da Silva. Stations that display some of the finest art include Cais do Sodré, Baixa/Chiado, Campo Grande, and Marquês de Pombal. BUS & TRAM Lisbon’s buses and trams are among the cheapest in Europe. The eléctricos (trolley cars, or trams) make the steep run up to the Bairro Alto. The double-decker buses come from London and look as if they need Big Ben in the background to complete the picture. If you’re trying to stand on the platform at the back of a jammed bus, you’ll need both hands free to hold on. The basic fare on a bus or eléctrico is 1.40€ if you buy the ticket from the driver (& 21/361-30-00; www.carris.pt). The transportation system within the city limits is divided into zones ranging from one to five. The fare depends on how many zones you traverse. Buses and eléctricos run daily from 6am to 1am. At the foot of the Santa Justa Elevator, on Rua Áurea, there’s a stand with schedules pinpointing the zigzagging tram and bus routes. Your hotel concierge should have information. The antediluvian eléctricos, much like San Francisco’s cable cars, have become a major tourist attraction. Beginning in 1903, the eléctricos replaced horse-drawn trams. The most interesting ride for sightseers is on eléctrico no. 28, which takes you on a fascinating trip through the most history-rich part of Lisbon. ELECTRIC TRAIN A smooth-running, modern electric train system connects Lisbon to all the towns and villages along the Portuguese Riviera. There’s only one class of seat, and the rides are cheap and generally comfortable. You can board the train at the waterfront Cais do Sodré Station in Lisbon and head up the coast all the way to Cascais. The electric train does not run to Sintra. For Sintra, you must go to the Estação do Rossio station, opening onto Praça de Dom Pedro IV, or the Rossio, where frequent
BY TAXI
BY CAR In congested Lisbon, driving is extremely difficult and potentially dangerous—the city has an alarmingly high accident rate. It always feels like rush hour in Lisbon. (Theoretically, rush hours are Mon–Fri 8–10am, 1–2pm, and 4–6pm.) Parking is seemingly impossible. Wait to rent a car until you’re making excursions from the capital. If you drive into Lisbon from another town or city, call ahead and ask at your hotel for the nearest garage or other place to park. Leave your vehicle there until you’re ready to depart. CAR RENTALS The major international car-rental companies are represented in Lisbon. There are kiosks at the airport and offices in the center. They include Avis, Av. Praia da Vitória 12C (& 21/351-45-60; www.avis.com), open daily from 8am to 7pm; and Hertz, Rua Castilho 72 (& 21/381-24-30 or 21/381-24-35; www.hertz.com), open Monday to Friday 8am to 7pm, Saturday 9am to 1pm and 2 to 7pm, and Sunday 9am to 1pm and 3 to 7pm; Budget, Rua Castillo 167B (& 21/386-05-16; www.budget. com), is open daily 9am to 7pm.
5 GETTING AROUND
Taxis in Lisbon tend to be inexpensive and are a popular means of transport for all but the most economy-minded tourists. They usually are diesel-engine Mercedes. The basic fare is 2.50€ for the first 153m (502 ft.), .10€ for each extra 162m (531 ft.), plus 20% from 10pm to 6am. The law allows drivers to tack on another 50% to your bill if your luggage weighs more than 66 pounds. Portuguese tip about 20% of the modest fare. For a Rádio Táxi, call & 21/811-90-00 (www.retalis.pt). Many visitors stay at a Costa do Sol resort hotel, such as the Palácio in Estoril or the Cidadela in Cascais. If you stay there, you’ll probably find taxi connections from Lisbon prohibitively expensive. Far preferable for Costa do Sol visitors is the electric train system (see above).
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connections can be made. The one-way fare from Lisbon to Cascais, Estoril, or Sintra is 1.80€ to 4€ per person (& 21/261-30-00; www.carris.pt). FUNICULARS Lisbon has a trio of funiculars: the Glória, which goes from Praça dos Restauradores to Rua São Pedro de Alcântara; the Bica, from the Calçada do Combro to Rua da Boavista; and the Lavra, from the eastern side of Avenida da Liberdade to Campo Mártires da Pátria. A one-way ticket on any of these costs 1.40€ (& 21/261-30-00; www.carris.pt). FERRY Long before the bridges across the Tagus were built, reliable ferryboats chugged across the river, connecting the left bank with the right. They still do, and have been rebuilt and remotorized so they’re no longer noisy. Many Portuguese who live on the bank opposite Lisbon take the ferry to avoid the heavy bridge traffic during rush hour. Most boats leave from Cais de Alfândega (Praça do Comércio) and Cais do Sodré, heading for Cacilhas. The trip is worth it for the scenic views alone. Arrivals are at the Estação do Barreiro, where trains leave about every 30 minutes for the Costa Azul and the Algarve. Ferries depart Lisbon throughout the day about every 15 to 20 minutes; trip time across the Tagus is 15 minutes. The cost of the continuing train ticket includes the ferry. The separate ferry fare from the center of Lisbon to Cacilhas is .81€ (& 808/2030-50; www.transtejo.pt).
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Lisbon Your hotel’s concierge usually is a reliable source of information. See also “Fast Facts: Portugal,” in chapter 16. Babysitters Most first-class hotels can provide babysitters from lists the concierge keeps. At small establishments, the sitter is likely to be a relative of the proprietor. Rates are low. Remember to request a babysitter early—no later than the morning if you’re planning on going out that evening. Also request a sitter with at least a minimum knowledge of English. If your sitter is fluent in English, count yourself lucky.
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Currency Exchange Currency-exchange booths at Santa Apolónia station and at the airport are both open 24 hours a day. ATMs offer the best exchange rates. They pepper the streets of the central Baixa district and are also found less frequently in other parts of the city. The post office (see “Mail,” below) will exchange money as well.
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Dentists The reception staff at most hotels maintains lists of local, usually Englishspeaking dentists who are available for dental emergencies. Some of them will contact a well-recommended dental clinic, Clinica Medica e Dentaria da Praça d’Espanha, Rua Dom Luís de Noronha 32 (& 21/796-74-57). Some of the staff members speak English. Doctors See “Hospitals,” below. Drugstores Farmácia Valmor, Av. Visconde Valmor 60B (& 21/781-97-43), is centrally located and well stocked. Emergencies To call the police or an ambulance, telephone
& 112.
Hospitals In case of a medical emergency, ask at your hotel or call your embassy and ask the staff there to recommend an English-speaking physician. Or try the British Hospital, Rua Saraiva de Carvalho 49 (& 21/394-31-00), where the telephone operator, staff, and doctors speak English. Hot Lines The drug abuse hot line is & 21/726-77-66. The number for the Lisbon office of Alcoholics Anonymous is & 21/716-29-69. Internet Access You can check your e-mail at Cyber.bica, Duques de Bragança 7 (& 21/322-50-04; www.cyberbica.com), in the Chiado district (Metro: BaixaChiado). It’s open Monday to Friday 11am to midnight. Laundry Keeping your clothes clean can be a problem if you’re not staying long in Lisbon. For a self-service laundry, try Lavatax, Rua Francisco Sanches 65A (& 21/812-33-92). Lost Property For items lost on public transportation, inquire at Secção de Achados da PSP, Olivais Sul, Praça Cidade de Salazar Lote 180 (& 21/853-54-03), which is open Monday to Friday 9am to 12:30pm and from 1:30 to 5pm. Luggage Storage & Lockers These can be found at the Estação da Santa Apolónia (& 80/820-82-08), by the river near the Alfama. Lockers cost 4€ for up to 48 hours.
89 Mail While in Portugal, you can have your mail directed to your hotel (or hotels), to the American Express representative, or to Poste Restante (General Delivery) in Lisbon. You must present your passport to pick up mail. The main post office, Correio Geral, in Lisbon is at Praça do Restauradores, 1100 Lisboa (& 21/323-8971). It’s open Monday to Friday 8am to 10pm, and Saturday and Sunday 9am to 6pm. Police Call
& 112.
Safety Lisbon used to be one of the safest capitals of Europe, but that hasn’t been true for a long time. It’s now quite dangerous to walk around at night. Many travelers report being held up at knifepoint. Some bandits operate in pairs or in trios. Not only do they take your money but they demand your ATM code. One of the robbers holds a victim captive while another withdraws money. (If the number proves to be fake, the robber might return and harm the victim.) During the day, pickpockets galore prey on tourists, aiming for wallets, purses, and cameras. Congested areas are particularly hazardous. Avoid walking at night, especially if you’re alone.
Telegrams, Telex & Fax At most hotels, the receptionist will help you send a telegram. If not, there’s a cable dispatch service open 24 hours a day at Marconi (the Portuguese Radio Communications Office), Rua de São Julião 131. To send telegrams from any telephone to points outside Portugal, dial & 1582 to reach Marconi. To send telegrams within Portugal (your Portuguese-language skills had better be good), dial & 1583 from any telephone. Most foreign visitors leave the logistics to the hotel concierge. Telexes and faxes can be sent from most hotels, or you can go to the general post office (see “Mail,” above).
Time For the local time in Lisbon, phone
& 12151, the “Speaking Clock.”
Transit Information For airport information, call & 21/841-35-00. For train information, dial & 80/820-82-08. TAP Air Portugal is at Avenida Do Berlin 1998 (& 21/841-50-00). Weather To find out about the weather, call & 12150 (available only in Portuguese). If you don’t speak Portuguese, ask someone at your hotel desk to translate one of the weather reports that appear daily in the leading newspapers.
5 FA S T FAC T S : L I S B O N
Telephone You can make a local call in Lisbon in one of the many telephone booths. For most long-distance telephone calls, particularly transatlantic calls, go to the central post office (see “Mail,” above). Give an assistant the number, and he or she will make the call for you, billing you at the end. Some phones are equipped for using calling cards, including American Express and Visa. You can also purchase phone cards. See “Telephones” in chapter 3 for more info. Lisbon’s city code is & 01.
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Taxes Lisbon imposes no city taxes. However, the national value-added tax (VAT) applies to purchases and services (see “Taxes” under “Fast Facts,” p. 416).
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3 W H E R E TO S TAY Lisbon has a much wider range of accommodations than ever before. Once Lisbon hotels were so cheap that they were reason alone to travel to Lisbon. Unfortunately, that’s no longer the case. Today hotels such as the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon and the Tivoli Lisboa charge virtually the same prices as first-class hotels in other high-priced European capitals. Most visitors in Lisbon have to decide whether to stay in a hotel in the city proper or at a resort in the neighboring towns of Estoril and Cascais (see chapter 7). Much will depend on your interests. If it’s summer and you’d like to have a sea-resort vacation while experiencing Lisbon’s cultural attractions, a beach resort might be ideal, even though you’d have to commute into Lisbon. Electric trains run about every 20 minutes, so it’s entirely possible to stay on the Costa do Sol and still go sightseeing in Lisbon. If you’re primarily interested in seeing Lisbon’s attractions and are pressed for time, you’ll probably opt to stay in the city. Also, the off-season (Nov–Mar) is not ideal for a sea-resort vacation. If you can’t afford to stay in Lisbon’s world-class hotels, a good alternative is the city’s reasonably priced guesthouses—called pensãos (pensions). Most of these are no-frills accommodations. Often you’ll have to share a bathroom, although many have hot and cold running water in a sink in your room. Some of the pensions in Lisbon are centrally located and are a good way to see the sights day and night without shelling out a lot of money for accommodations. If you arrive without a reservation, begin your search for a room as early in the day as possible. If you arrive late at night, you might have to take what you can get, and pay more than you expected.
IN THE CENTER Very Expensive The 10-floor Ritz, built by the dictator Salazar in the late 1950s on one of Lisbon’s seven hills, is now operated by Four Seasons. Its suites boast the finest decoration you’ll see in any major Portuguese hotel: slender mahogany canopied beds with fringed swags, marquetry desks, satinwood dressing tables, and plush carpeting. Some of the soundproof, spacious, modern rooms have terraces opening onto Edward VII Park; each boasts a marble bathroom. The least desirable rooms are the even-numbered ones facing the street. The odd-numbered accommodations, opening onto views of the park, are the best. Some studios with double beds are rented as singles, attracting business travelers.
Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon
Rua Rodrigo de Fonseca 88, 1099-039 Lisboa. & 800/819-5053 in the U.S., or & 21/381-14-00. Fax 21/383-17-83. www.fourseasons.com. 282 units. 355€–600€ double; from 975€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Metro: Marquês de Pombal. Bus: 1, 2, 9, or 32. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (20€ per 24 hours).
Hotel Dom Pedro Rated five stars by the Portuguese government and associated with some of the most glamorous hotels of the Algarve and Madeira, this bastion of luxury is in the central Amoreiras district, across from one of the city’s biggest shopping centers. A hypermodern sheathing of reflective glass covers its 21 stories. The interior is
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Auto-Estrada To Estoril, Sintra, Parque de Monsanto
Lisbon Accommodations 91
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as conservative and rich-looking as the exterior is futuristic. The good-size guest rooms are richly furnished, usually with heraldic symbols or medallions woven subtly through the fabrics and wallpapers. Av. Engenheiro Duarte Pacheco 24, 1070-109 Lisboa. & 21/389-66-00. Fax 21/389-66-01. www.dom pedro.com. 263 units. 180€–395€ double; 330€–630€ suites. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 17€. Metro: Marquês de Pombal. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; airport transfers (35€); babysitting; concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (6€ per hour, in lobby). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.
In a palace built in 1870 for the count of Valença, this government-rated five-star hotel, purchased by Orient Express in 1998, is the most talked-about accommodation in Lisbon. We never thought we’d see a hotel replace the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon as the city’s premier address, but Lapa has done just that. In 1910, the de Valença family sold the villa and its enormous gardens to a wealthy, untitled family that retained it until 1988. Its lushly manicured gardens lie close to the Tagus, south of the city center. All but about 20 of the rooms are in a modern six-story wing. The spacious guest rooms in both sections contain amply proportioned marble surfaces, reproductions of French and English furniture, and a classic design inspired by a late-18th-century model. The marble bathrooms are among the city’s most elegant, often adorned with bas-reliefs. Each unit opens onto a balcony. The older rooms have more charm and grace; many of the newer ones open onto panoramic vistas of Lisbon. The public areas have multicolored ceiling frescoes and richly patterned marble floors.
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Lapa Palace
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Rua do Pau da Bandeira 4, 1249-021 Lisboa. & 21/394-94-94. Fax 21/395-06-65. www.lapapalace.com. 109 units. 400€–725€ double; from 1,075€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 13 or 27. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; children’s center; concierge; exercise room; 2 pools (1 heated indoors); room service; spa; Wi-Fi (15€ per 24 hours, in lobby). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.
Sheraton Lisboa Hotel & Spa Built in 1972, and completely restored in 2007, this deluxe hotel is sheltered in a 25-floor skyscraper lying at a traffic-clogged intersection a bit removed from the center of the action, a few blocks north of Praça do Marquês de Pombal. The impressive pink-marble lobby features chandeliers and fancy carpeting. The guest rooms are small to midsize for the most part, but have been given a trendy look with all new furniture. The most desirable rooms are in the tower, opening onto views of the Vasco da Gama Bridge, the Tagus, or the city. There’s also a private lounge and bar where you can mingle with other hotel guests (many of whom are business travelers), as well as a bar on the 26th floor, with a panoramic view of Lisbon and dancing to live music nightly. Rua Latino Coelho 1, 1069-025 Lisboa. & 800/325-3535 in the U.S., or & 21/312-00-00. Fax 21/354-7164. www.sheratonlisboa.com. 366 units. 220€ double; from 415€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 19€. Bus: 1, 36, 44, or 45. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; outdoor pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (18€ per 24 hours).
Expensive Fontana Park Hotel With one of the most striking minimalist chic designs in Lisbon, this hotel lies to the northeast of Parque Eduardo VII, within walking distance of the Marquês de Pombal, a landmark square at the top of Avenida da Liberdade. Its interior car park rises five floors, the best parking garage in central Lisbon. Bedrooms are in a sleek, tasteful contemporary design, with panoramic windows, advanced modern lighting, and Philippe Starck deep white Duravit bathtubs that twinkle with lights of
their own. The most desirable accommodations are on the 7th floor, with their sleek, angular black surfaces and panoramic viewing terraces. Drawing an international clientele, the very black Bonsai Restaurant serves a Japanese cuisine. D.J.-spun music and those caipirinhas lure you to the also black Fontana Bar.
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Rua Engenheiro Vieira da Silva 2, 1050-105 Lisboa. & 21/357-62-12. Fax 21-357-92-44. www. fontanapark-hotel.com. 139 units. 185€–240€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 20€. Metro: Parque. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet (10€ per day), minibar.
Heritage Avenida Liberdade Hotel Right on the main street of Lisbon, this sleekly modern hotel in a restored late-18th-century palace opened its doors in 2006. It’s already considered one of Lisbon’s best hotels, partly because the decor was created by famed architect Miguel Câncio Martins, known for such landmarks as the Buddha Bar in Paris. His designs combine traditional architectural features with the most modern of technology, a winning combination the way he does it. Though the 18th-century exterior was retained, the interior was virtually re-created to fit modern living standards. Rooms range from midsize to spacious, and are glamorously laid out. The six-floor hotel also boasts the sort of personalized service you’d expect from a small property.
Built in 1892, Hotel Avenida Palace is the grandest old-fashioned hotel in Lisbon, an antiques-filled link to the past. Its extremely convenient location right at the Rossio is terribly noisy, but inside, it is another world entirely. Still the grand dame of Lisbon hotels, it retains its 19th-century aura and elegance, with a marble staircase, beautiful salons, and silk brocades. The Belle Epoque–style Palace offers all the modern comforts, especially in its restored guest rooms. They’re soundproof and elegantly furnished, often in 17th- or 18th-century style.
Hotel Avenida Palace
Although this central hotel opened only in 2008, it’s like a throwback to the 1950s. You get that impression when you see life-size photos of those Sabrina stars, Humphrey Bogart and Audrey Hepburn, staring back at you in the elevator. On some of the walls are famous American film quotations. Even the restaurant evokes an American diner from the ’50s. Bedrooms are comfortably furnished, and also extend the movie kitsch, taking names of Tinseltown’s favorite stars, everybody from Robert De Niro to Jack Nicholson. We searched for the Marilyn Monroe room or the James Dean room but they must have been occupied. Actually, this is a hotel that is the latest reincarnation of an establishment that dates from 1941.
Hotel Florida
Rua Duque de Pamela 34, 1250-098 Lisboa. & 21/357-61-45. www.hotel-florida.pt. 72 units. 175€–220€ double, 225€ junior suite. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Marques de Pombal. Amenities: Bar; concierge; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (20€ per day).
Hotel Lisboa Plaza Hotel Lisboa Plaza, in the heart of the city, is a charmer of a boutique hotel. A family-owned and -operated government-rated four-star hotel, it has many appealing Art Nouveau touches, including the facade. The hotel was built in 1953
5 W H E R E TO S TAY
Rua 1er Dezembro 123, 1200-359 Lisboa. & 21/321-81-00. Fax 21/342-28-84. www.hotel-avenidapalace.pt. 82 units. 176€–450€ double; 198€–550€ junior suite; from 234€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Metro: Restauradores. Tram: 35. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; exercise room; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (6€ per hour).
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Av. da Liberdade 28, 1250-145 Lisboa. & 21/340-40-40. Fax 21/340-40-44. www.heritage.pt. 42 units. 220€–320€ double; 253€–410€ triple. Children under 12 stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking nearby 30€. Metro: Restauradores. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, free Wi-Fi.
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and has been frequently overhauled and modernized since. A well-known Portuguese designer, Graça Viterbo, decorated it in contemporary classic style. The midsize guest rooms—with well-stocked marble bathrooms and double-glazed windows—are well styled and comfortable. Try for a unit in the rear, looking out over the botanical gardens. Travessa do Salitre 7, Av. da Liberdade, 1269-066 Lisboa. & 21/321-82-18. Fax 21/347-16-30. www. heritage.pt. 106 units. 99€–235€ double; 203€–450€ suite. Children under 12 stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking nearby 10€. Metro: Avenida. Bus: 1, 2, 36, or 44. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; exercise room; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, free Wi-Fi.
Opened in 2000, this hotel occupies several floors of an eight-story shopping center that’s otherwise devoted to such merchandizing giants as FNAC. Built as a replacement for what burned to the ground during a disastrous fire in 1988, it was designed by prestigious Portugal-born designer Siza Vieira. You’ll register within a street-level lobby and then be ushered upstairs to one of the artfully minimalist bedrooms. The best of these have private terraces on a rooftop that blooms with bougainvillea vines and brightly colored wildflowers. The standard bedrooms are midsize, each well furnished in a tasteful, modern style with a well-organized private bathroom. Of special note is the hotel’s bar, a postmodern oasis of soaring vertical lines, copies of 18thcentury antiques, and theatrical panoramas over St. George’s Castle.
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Lisboa Regency Chiado
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Rua Nova do Almada 114, 1200-290 Lisboa. & 21/325-61-00. Fax 21/325-61-61. www.lisboaregency chiado.com. 40 units. 200€–290€ double; 310€–400€ suite. Free parking. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Baixa Chiado. Amenities: Bar; airport transfers (30€); room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, free Wi-Fi.
After a 2001 takeover, the Marriott chain runs this 1970s hotel, which lies a 10-minute taxi ride north of the historic core in the vicinity of the airport and the Gulbenkian Museum. It occupies a panoramic site atop a hill overlooking the city. Part of the massive renovations included the addition of an outdoor pool in the garden, the construction of a health club, and the transformation of each of the bedrooms into the conservatively modern, international decor that’s a trademark of most other Marriott hotels. The Marriott compares favorably with the Sofitel Lisboa (see below). The primary difference between the two is location. The Marriott is less convenient to the major sights of Lisbon, but it is in a quieter, more tranquil environment. It has better facilities, including a pool and a health club. The hotel also lies closer to sports facilities, including a full spa, beaches, snorkeling, and golf.
Lisbon Marriott
Av. dos Combatentes 45, 1600-042 Lisboa. & 21/723-54-00. Fax 21/726-42-81. www.marriott.com. 577 units. 83€–260€ double; from 258€ suite. Parking 15€. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Ciudad Universitária or Laranjeiras. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; exercise room; outdoor pool; room service; Wi-Fi (20€ per 24 hours, in lobby). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.
NH Liberdade This hotel lies in the center of town in a sector that bridges the gap between the historic old town and the newer commercial sections of Lisbon. With its rooftop swimming pool and its chic black-and-cream motif, it has quickly become a hip address. The developers (the Liberdade is the latest project of the Heritage hotel chain, and like the Heritage Avenida Liberdade Hotel, was designed by the Portuguese architect, Miguel Martins) took a late-18th-century building and retained the facade and some original architecture features; otherwise, they created a hotel of contemporary comfort and extreme modernity. The lobby of the hotel balances whimsical and modern
aspects—note the faux fur lamp—with the traditional (the architecture evokes a Lisbon manor home). There are 83 rooms, of which 25 are suites, with minimalist furnishings.
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Av. da Liberdade 180B, 1250-146 Lisboa. & 21/351-40-60. Fax 21/314-36-74. www.nh-hotels.com. 83 units. 138€–180€ double; from 250€ suite. Parking 17€. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Avenida. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; access to nearby exercise room; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (17€ per 24 hours).
In the center of one of Lisbon’s showcase boulevards, this member of a French-based chain is one of the capital’s major deluxe hotels. With a high-tech edge to its design, the hotel features touches of intimacy. The comfortably appointed and good-size guest rooms offer the standard extras, and accommodations on each of the building’s nine floors are outfitted with a different color scheme. Special rooms for business travelers offer extra luxuries. The major difference between the Sofitel and the Marriott, which is of equal rank, is location. The Sofitel is located in the heart of Lisbon on its most prestigious boulevard. This puts you closer to the most important shops and major attractions of the city—it also puts you in a noisy, congested area. But if you will be spending most of your time in the city and aren’t too interested in outdoor activities, make it the Sofitel.
Sofitel Lisbon Liberdade
One of the most dramatic major hotels in Lisbon, this hotel, which opened in 1985, lies in an 18-floor tower of concrete and mirrored glass. It’s across the street from the superior Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon. The airconditioned lobby has lost some of its early glitter, but it’s still impressive, with white marble, polished chromium, and mirrors. A symmetrical entrance frames the tile-bottomed fountains, whose splashing water rises to the top of the sunlit atrium. The small to midsize guest rooms are soundproof and tastefully decorated with business travelers in mind. They have thermostats and queen- or king-size beds.
Tiara Park Atlantic Lisboa
This hotel is under the same ownership as its neighbor, the Tivoli Lisboa (see below), and is not nearly as prestigious. Nonetheless, it is a most worthy, good-value choice; guests of the Jardim share the same facilities as the higher-rated neighbor, but pay less. And since the Jardim is set behind its more famous namesake, it avoids the traffic noise along Avenida da Liberdade. The modern structure from 1968 is adorned with “cliff-hanging” balconies, two shafts of elevators, and well-styled and attractively furnished midsize bedrooms. The public lounges—set in a cathedral-high lobby—are popular with Portuguese businesspeople.
Tivoli Jardim
Rua Julio Cesar Machado, 1250-135 Lisboa. & 21/359-10-00. Fax 21/359-12-45. www.tivolihotels.com. 119 units. 225€–270€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15€. Metro: Avenida. Bus: 1, 2, 9, 44, or 45. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; outdoor heated pool; room service; Wi-Fi (18€ per 24 hours). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station.
In spite of increased competition among upmarket hotels, this enduring favorite continues to hold its own, luring guests with such enticing features as
Tivoli Lisboa
5 W H E R E TO S TAY
Rua Castilho 149, 1099-034 Lisboa. & 21/381-87-00. Fax 21/389-05-05. www.tiara-hotels.com. 331 units. 158€–300€ double; from 375€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 16€. Metro: Marquês de Pombal. Bus: 1, 2, 9, or 32. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi.
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Av. da Liberdade 127, 1269-038 Lisboa. & 21/322-83-00. Fax 21/322-83-10. www.sofitel.com. 171 units. 125€–315€ double; 350€ suite. Parking 15€. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Avenida. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (5€ per hour).
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the only hotel pool in central Lisbon. Right on the main boulevard, it has extensive facilities, but its prices are not extravagant, considering the luxuries. The two-story reception lobby has an encircling mezzanine lounge that’s almost arena-size, with comfortable islands of furniture arranged on Oriental rugs. Adjoining the O Terraço restaurant is a homey salon with a wood-burning fireplace. The guest rooms contain a mixture of modern and traditional furniture. The larger and best rooms face the front, although those in the rear are quieter. For some reason, rooms ending in the number 50 have the most spacious bathrooms. Av. da Liberdade 185, 1269-050 Lisboa Codex. & 21/319-89-00. Fax 21/319-89-50. www.tivolihotels. com. 329 units. 290€–510€ double; from 520€ suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Garage 18€. Metro: Avenida. Bus: 1, 2, 9, or 32. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; outdoor heated pool; room service; outdoor tennis court (lit). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (18€ per 24 hours).
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Moderate
W H E R E TO S TAY
5
AC Lisboa If you’re seeking Old Lisbon, check into the Hotel Avenida Palace (see above). But if you want a completely comfortable and up-to-date address, with midsize to spacious bedrooms, consider AC Lisboa. Next to the heartbeat Praça Marquês de Pombal and Sottomayor Palace, this hotel rises in the commercial district of Lisbon but still manages to stay affordable. Rooms are modern and functional, with well-maintained bathrooms. Though the on-site restaurant and cafe aren’t amazing, that shouldn’t be an issue considering how many restaurants are nearby. Largo de Andaluz 13 B, 1050-121 Lisboa. & 21/005-09-30. Fax 21/005-09-31. www.ac-hotels.com. 83 units. 100€–155€ double; 104€–178€ superior double; 135€–233€ junior suite. Parking 17€. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Marquês de Pombal. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; exercise room; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (17€ per 24 hours).
Although York House Hotel is still the most atmospheric—and certainly the most famous in its category in Lisbon—this hotel is giving it serious competition and is almost its equal. In fact, it used to be an annex to York House Hotel but broke away and is becoming known as a historic hotel in its own right. Lying near the Museum of Ancient Art, it was the former house of the Portuguese novelist Eça de Queirós. During a major renovation, the place was modernized, but its traditional past was respected. Rooms are luxurious with comfortable furniture, style, and abundant closet space. The red lounge evokes turn-of-the-20th-century Lisbon. Other special features include a small but beautiful garden and two honor bars as well as a top-floor library and terrace.
As Janelas Verdes
Rua das Janelas Verdes 47, 1200-690 Lisboa. & 21/396-81-43. Fax 21/396-81-44. www.heritage.pt. 29 units. 161€–295€ double; 300€–380€ triple. Parking 10€. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 27, 40, 49, or 60. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.
This central hotel lies just off Praça do Marquês de Pombal but it charges only a fraction of what its rivals in the neighborhood do. The curvy facade is all glass, lending an outdoorsy feeling reinforced by trees and beds of orange and red canna. The good-size guest rooms are paneled in reddish Portuguese wood; even so, they’re rather uninspired and functional. An occasional hand-carved cherub softens the Nordic-inspired furnishings. The hotel faces a triangular park dedicated to Camilo Castelo Branco, a 19th-century poet. The lobby lounge is satisfactory; more inviting is the mezzanine salon, where sofas and chairs face the park.
Dom Carlos Park
Av. Duque de Loulé 121, 1050-089 Lisboa. & 21/351-25-90. Fax 21/352-07-28. www.domcarlospark. com. 76 units. 138€–170€ double; from 196€ junior suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 11€. Metro: Marquês de Pombal. Bus: 1, 36, 44, or 45. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; room service; free Wi-Fi in lobby. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.
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This boutique hotel is the only surviving original Art Deco inn in Lisbon. It was designed in 1942 by the well-known Portuguese architect Vassiano Branco. Located about a block from the Liberdade, it boasts a loyal clientele and much of its original decor, including murals in the bar and candelabra in the public lounge. The six-story hotel hasn’t been renovated in quite a while, but there is yearly maintenance and upgrading on an as-need basis. A former town house, it originally housed studio apartments, which explains why the bedrooms are much larger than most other competitors in Lisbon. Many of the old Art Deco touches are still intact, including a lavish use of marble and “porthole” windows as on a ship.
Hotel Britânia
Rua Rodrigues Sampaio 17, 1150-278 Lisboa. & 21/315-50-16. Fax 21/315-50-21. www.heritage.pt. 32 units. 130€–245€ double. Parking 15€. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Avenida. Bus: 1, 2, 11, or 21. Amenities: Bar; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, free Wi-Fi.
Praça de Dom Pedro IV 30 (Rossio), 1100-200 Lisboa. & 21/346-91-64. Fax 21/346-91-66. www.almeida hotels.com. 36 units. 143€–173€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. No parking available at the hotel. Metro: Rossio. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.
Av. da Liberdade 189, 1250-141 Lisboa. & 21/352-26-18. Fax 21/352-66-78. www.viphotels.com. 37 units. 95€–110€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 11€. Metro: Avenida. Amenities: Bar; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (10€ per 24 hours).
Once a 17th-century convent, this boutique hotel is outside the center of traffic-filled Lisbon, and so attracts those who desire peace and tranquillity. It has long been known to the English and to diplomats, artists, writers, poets, and professors. Book well in advance. Near the National Art Gallery, it sits high on a hillside overlooking the Tagus and is surrounded by a garden. A distinguished Lisbon designer selected the tasteful furnishings. Guest rooms vary in size; all have antique beds and
York House Hotel
5 W H E R E TO S TAY
Although this palace stands in the center of Lisbon, you could pass it by and not even know that it’s a hotel. It’s like a beautiful, old-fashioned hideaway waiting to be discovered, and it offers a rare chance to live in a palace that was once occupied by the wealthy Portuguese of the 19th century. A grand staircase leads to the three upper floors. Although this hotel is modernized, you’ll feel you’re stepping back into another time inside its walls. Rooms are midsize for the most part and tastefully and comfortably furnished with tile bathrooms. Guests gather in the bar for drinks or breakfast. The hotel has old-fashioned charm and style but is lean on amenities. The staff solves that problem by granting its guests access to the facilities of the well-equipped Tivoli Lisboa (see above).
VIP Inn Veneza
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Hotel Métropole Originally built around 1900, this is the most centrally located hotel in town, ideal for theater, sightseeing, dining, or business. A narrow flight of marble stairs runs to the lobby. Many 1920s Art Deco appointments adorn the public rooms. The cozy guest rooms, which vary greatly in size, are freshly painted. They contain reproductions of traditional furniture, and come equipped with neatly kept bathrooms. Those in front overlook the noisy, animated square; the rooms in back overlook the congestion of the Bairro Alto.
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18th- and 19th-century bric-a-brac. The public rooms boast inlaid chests, coats of armor, carved ecclesiastical figures, and ornate ceramics. The former monks’ dining hall has deep-set windows, large niches for antiques, and—best of all—French-Portuguese cuisine. Rua das Janelas Verdes 32, 1200-691 Lisboa. & 21/396-24-35. Fax 21/397-27-93. www.yorkhouselisboa. com. 32 units. 60€–300€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking nearby 10€. Bus: 27, 40, 49, 54, or 60. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.
Inexpensive Built in the 1800s as a private villa for the count of Coruche, this building lies behind the botanical gardens—it’s an oasis of tranquillity in an otherwise noisy city. Managed today by the Marquês family, it became a hotel back in 1945. Although renovated, the high-ceilinged rooms retain an aura of their original slightly dowdy, somewhat frayed charm. All units are well kept and contain private bathrooms with tub/shower combinations. Breakfast is served in a sunny second-floor dining room decorated with antique tiles.
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Casa de São Mamede
W H E R E TO S TAY
5
Rua da Escola Politécnica 159, 1250-100 Lisboa. & 21/396-31-66. Fax 21/395-18-96. www.casadesao mamede.com. 28 units. 90€–120€ double; 140€ triple. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, MC, V. No parking available at the hotel. Tram: 24. Bus: 22, 49, or 58. In room: A/C, TV.
This establishment lies near Avenida da Liberdade on a busy corner. It doesn’t deserve a spectacular rating, but it’s a decent place to spend the night. Built in the late 1960s, it’s recommended for families because the management will add an extra bed to any room for 30€ to 35€. The guest rooms are small and nicely laid out, each with a built-in chestnut headboard, bed lights, a tiled bathroom and even a valet stand. The modest-size reception lounges are on three levels, connected by wide marble steps.
Dom Carlos Liberty
Rua Alexandre Herculano 13, 1150-005 Lisboa. & 21/317-35-70. Fax 21/317-35-74. www.domcarlos liberty.com. 49 units. 138€–245€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Parking nearby 11€. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Marquês de Pombal. Bus: 1, 36, 44, or 45. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; exercise room; free Wi-Fi in lobby. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.
Hotel Jorge V The Jorge V is a neat little hotel with a 1960s design. It boasts a choice
location a block off the noisy Avenida da Liberdade. Its facade contains rows of balconies roomy enough for guests to have breakfast or afternoon refreshments. A tiny elevator runs to a variety of aging rooms, which aren’t generous in size but are comfortable; all have small tile bathrooms. A highlight is the regional-style combination bar and breakfast room. Rua Mouzinho da Silveira 3, 1250-165 Lisboa. & 21/356-25-25. Fax 21/315-03-19. www.hoteljorgev. com. 49 units. 79€–111€ double; 110€–135€ suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Metro: Avenida or Marquês de Pombal. Amenities: Bar; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.
Hotel Miraparque Miraparque lies on a secluded, quiet street opposite Edward VII Park. The small guest rooms haven’t been called modern since the 1960s, but are well maintained. The hotel is a little worn but still recommendable because of its central location and low prices. The wood-paneled lounges are furnished in simulated brown leather. Av. Sidónio Pais 12, 1050-214 Lisboa. & 21/352-42-86. Fax 21/357-89-20. www.miraparque.com. 100 units. 65€–100€ double; 95€–125€ triple. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking (in nearby lot) 15€. Metro: Parque. Bus: 91. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (2€ per hour).
Built in 1961, this nondescript place is a favorite with visiting Spanish and Portuguese matadors. Most guest rooms are spacious, and most open onto their own balconies. The matadors seem to like the Príncipe’s dining room and bar. The hotel’s eight floors are accessible by two elevators. Though hotels in central Lisbon are not particularly oriented for families with small children, this one tries by providing some of the best babysitters in town and an on-site guest laundry so families can catch up on the family wash.
Hotel Príncipe Lisboa
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Av. Duque d’Ávila 201, 1050-082 Lisboa. & 21/359-20-50. Fax 21/359-20-55. www.hotelprincipelisboa. com. 70 units. 85€ double. Rates include continental breakfast, and children 4 and younger stay free in parent’s room. Parking 6€. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: São Sebastião. Tram: 20. Bus: 41 or 46. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (10€ per 24 hours).
Residência Alicante This hotel’s postwar facade curves around a quiet residential corner in an undistinguished neighborhood. The Alicante is welcoming and safe. You register on the street level with kindly staff members who speak little or no English; a small elevator runs to the four upper floors. Furnishings and room sizes vary, but most budget-minded visitors find the Alicante an acceptable place to stay. The quieter accommodations overlook an interior courtyard.
Residência Imperador The Portuguese-pinewood entrance of the Residência
Imperador is small, even claustrophobic. However, the rooms and the upper lounge are adequate in size. The units are neatly planned, with comfortable beds and simple lines. The decor, however, is dowdy. On the top floor are a public room and a terrace with a glass front, where breakfast is served.
Residência Nazareth You’ll recognize this establishment by its dusty-pink facade and its windows, some of which are beneath decorative arches raised in low relief. An elevator runs to the fourth-floor landing, where guests can admire a medieval vaulting. The distressed plaster and wrought-iron lanterns are obvious facsimiles. Even the spacious bar and lounge looks like a vaulted cellar. Some of the basic guest rooms contain platforms, requiring guests to step up or down to the bathrooms or to the comfortable beds. Av. António Augusto de Aguiar 25, 1050-102 Lisboa. & 21/354-20-16. Fax 21/356-08-36. www. residencianazareth.com. 32 units. 50€–65€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Metro: São Sebastião or Parque. Bus: 46. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.
Residêncial Florescente In the Baixa district, most centrally located, this is one of the best budget bets in central Lisbon. On a bustling street, with many restaurants and bars nearby, this is a well-run establishment with a welcoming staff who takes care of your needs. The bedrooms are simply furnished, a bit like a roadside motel, but well kept and comfortable. Some of the rooms with three beds are suitable for families.
5 W H E R E TO S TAY
Av. 5 de Outubro 55, 1050-048 Lisboa. & 21/352-48-84. Fax 21/352-65-37. www.imperador.com.pt. 42 units. 45€–75€ double; 50€–90€ triple. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking (in nearby lot) 13€. Metro: Saldanha. Bus: 44, 45, or 90. Amenities: Bar; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.
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Av. Duque de Loulé 20, 1050-090 Lisboa. & 21/353-05-14. Fax 21/352-02-50. www.residenciaalicante. com. 50 units. 55€–65€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 10€. Metro: Picoas or Marquês de Pombal. Bus: 32, 36, 44, or 45. Amenities: Bar; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (4€ per hour).
100 Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 99, 1150-266 Lisboa. & 21/343-66-09. Fax 21/342-77-33. www. residencialflorescente.com. 68 units. 45€–80€ double; 70€–95€ triple. Rates include breakfast. AE, MC, V. Parking 15€. Metro: Rossio. Amenities: Breakfast room. In room: A/C, TV, free Wi-Fi.
VIP Executive Suítes Éden Awarded a prize as the best renovation project in Lisbon, the former Éden theater, a landmark Art Deco building in the center of Lisbon, was handsomely converted to receive guests. Its spacious and well-furnished apartments house two comfortably in the smaller units and four in the larger quarters. Apartments open onto a garden or the cityscape. Every apartment, ideal for families, comes with a fully equipped kitchenette, a tiled bathroom, and tasteful furnishings. The biggest treat of all is the rooftop terrace, where breakfast is served until 10:30am and drinks are served throughout the day and evening until 11pm. The view of Lisbon from there is panoramic. Praça dos Restauradores 24, 1250-187 Lisboa. & 21/321-66-00. Fax 21/321-66-66. www.viphotels.com. 134 units. 136€ for 2 people; 156€ for 4 people. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking not available at the hotel. Metro: Restauradores. Bus: 2, 11, 32, 36, 44, 45, or 91. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchen, Wi-Fi (3€ per hour).
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IN THE ALFAMA
W H E R E TO S TAY
5
Expensive A stay at this historic building is one of the Heritage Solar Do Castelo city’s highlights. Lying inside the walls of the formidable 18th-century St. George’s Castle (Lisbon’s first royal palace), this hotel is reached only on foot because vehicles are off-limits. Some of the medieval architecture remains, such as an old cistern, part of the original palace. Although the building is antique, the bedrooms are in a high-quality contemporary design, mixing old elements such as original stone fortifications with contemporary fabrics and furnishings. Each room comes with a balcony overlooking a picture-perfect courtyard. Rua das Cozinhas 2, 1100-181 Lisboa. & 21/880-60-50. Fax 21/887-09-07. www.heritage.pt. 14 units. 145€–340€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking not available at the hotel. Metro: Rossio. Bus: 37. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.
Deep in the heart of the Alfama lies this romantic hideaway found outside the walls of Castelo de São Jorge. When the hotel was launched at the dawn of the millennium, Condé Nast Traveler called it one of the “21 coolest hotels in the world.” Each accommodation is a luxuriously furnished suite named after a towering figure in Portuguese arts and letters, including, for example, Gil Vicente. The inn is imbued with antique art, Portuguese tiles, antiques, and works of art, and it has a 4,000-tome library. Its special feature is a swimming pool lined in black marble. Our favorite is the Fernão Magalhães Suite, named after the maritime explorer who circumnavigated the globe for the first time. It lies in the western Muslim tower.
Palácio Belmonte
Páteo Dom Fradique 14, 1100-624 Lisboa. & 21/881-66-00. Fax 21/881-66-09. www.palaciobelmonte. com. 11 suites. 340€–1,200€. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Tram: 28. Amenities: Bar; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, free Wi-Fi.
Moderate Solar dos Mouros One of the most stylish small hotels in Lisbon occupies a tangerine-colored, steeply vertical antique building on a quiet street that runs parallel to the base of St. George’s Castle. All of the rooms have a starkly modern minimalist decor that might remind you of a photo set from Architectural Digest. Each contains at least one boldly abstract painting; some pieces are the work of the hotel’s owner, Luis
Memos. Rooms have hardwood floors, cutting-edge furniture, and lots of space; all of 101 them open onto a starkly contemporary staircase that was added to the building’s shell during its complete gutting in 2000. The location in the heart of the Alfama means you’ll be amid some of the city’s hippest and most avant-garde attractions. Breakfast is the only meal served. Rua Milagre de Santo António 6, 1100-351 Lisboa. & 21/885-49-40. Fax 21/885-49-45. www.solardos mouros.com. 12 units. 119€–259€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. No parking available at the hotel. Tram: 28. Amenities: Bar; concierge; room service. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, minibar, free Wi-Fi.
IN THE BAIRRO ALTO Expensive
Praça Luís de Camões 8, 1200-243 Lisboa. & 21/340-82-88. Fax 21/340-82-00. www.bairroaltohotel. com. 55 units. 385€–475€ double; 530€–650€ suites. Rates include buffet breakfast. Parking 15€. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Baixa/Chiado. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (5€ per hour).
Inexpensive
Rua Luz Soriano 75, 1200-246 Lisboa. &/fax 21/347-80-69. www.anjoazul.cb2web.com. 20 units, 7 with private bathroom. 40€–50€ double without bathroom; 50€–85€ double with bathroom. AE, MC, V. No parking available at the hotel. Metro: Baixa Chiado. Tram: 28. In room: TV/DVD.
IN THE GRACA DISTRICT Moderate This unique little hilltop hotel is Albergaria da Senhora do Monte perched near a belvedere, the Miradouro Senhora do Monte, in a hardly visited part of the city. It has a memorable nighttime view of the city, the Castle of St. George, and the Tagus. The intimate living room features large tufted sofas and oversize tables and lamps.
5 W H E R E TO S TAY
Hotel Anjo Azul (Blue Angel) This is the only hotel in Lisbon that markets itself to a gay clientele, although heterosexual clients also check in and are welcome. Set on a narrow street in the Bairro Alto, a short walk from such well-recommended gay or mixed bars as Portas Largas and Frágil, it occupies a narrow, much-renovated 18th-century town house that retains many of its original blue-and-white tiles. Don’t expect luxury or even an elevator—just clean but small and exceptionally simple rooms, and a thoughtful and helpful staff well versed in the advantages of the surrounding neighborhood. No meals of any kind are served, there’s no bar on-site, but the attractive, international, and worldly clientele, many of whom return for second and third visits, don’t really seem to mind.
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Bairro Alto Hotel With a location that’s unmatched for its association with literary, historic, and Romantic-era Portugal, this 2005 reincarnation of Lisbon’s oldest hotel sits within an ocher-colored six-story baroque building within a few steps of the square (Praça Luís de Camões) that commemorates Portugal’s most important literary patriarch. It originated in 1845 when it was rebuilt from the rubble of Lisbon’s Great Earthquake less than a century before as the Hotel de l’Europe, then the capital’s most visible hotel. Huge effort was taken to blend the historic with the cutting edge here, from the ample use of thousands of feet of exotic hardwoods, to the presence of all the electronic accessories that the post-millennium generation would expect. Bedrooms and their furnishings are rich with antecedents to Portugal’s imperial past, yet updated with a sense of upscale minimalism and with lots of postmodern amenities. There’s also a sophisticated bar, a rooftop terrace with a splendid panorama, and a gem-size restaurant (p. 113).
102 Multilevel corridors lead to the excellent guest rooms, all of which have verandas. The rooms reveal a decorator’s touch, especially the gilt-edged door panels, the grass-cloth walls, and the tile bathrooms. Calçada do Monte 39, 1170-250 Lisboa. & 21/886-60-02. Fax 21/887-77-83. www.maisturismo.pt/ sramonte. 28 units. 130€–145€ double; 140€–175€ suite. Rates include continental breakfast. Free parking nearby. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Socorro. Tram: 28. Bus: 12, 17, or 35. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; room service; Wi-Fi (4€ per hr.). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.
IN THE ALCANTARA
S E T T L I N G I N TO L I S B O N
Moderate
W H E R E TO S TAY
5
Hotel Vila Galé Ópera In the Alcântara district (next to the Ponte do 25 de Abril bridge), this modern hotel successfully blends the traditional and modern—but with less flair than the Bairro Alto (see above). Still, if you want a good location, a comfortable but affordable room, and a well-run hotel with a hospitable staff, consider checking in here. Bedrooms range from midsize to spacious, and are of a high standard, with sleek contemporary bathrooms. Most of the rooms open onto views of the Tagus River and the bustling dockland area. Befitting the operatic name, the interior decoration is musically inspired, and its restaurant is named in honor of Falstaff. Though this is a rather sprawling hotel, personal service isn’t overlooked. Travessa do Conde da Ponte, 1300-141 Lisboa. & 21/790-76-40. Fax 21/360-54-00. www.vilagale.pt. 259 units. 160€ double; 230€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 6€. Metro: Cais do Sodré. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna; Wi-Fi (5€ per hour). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.
IN ALTO DE SANTO AMARO Very Expensive Pestana Palace Set within an upscale residential neighborhood known as Santo Amaro-Ajuda, about 5km (3 miles) west of the commercial core of Lisbon and about 1.5km (1 mile) north of the Alcântara Railway Station, this grand, imperiallooking hotel occupies a villa that was originally built in 1907 by a Portuguese mogul. The hotel’s core is one of the best examples of Romantic Revival architecture in Portugal, combining at least four distinct architectural styles (including what the Portuguese refer to as rocaille baroque and Doña Maria revival) into one shimmering whole. The Pestana hotel chain added two rambling wings and state-of-the-art kitchens and security systems. Only four of the bedrooms—each a high-ceilinged suite—lie within the original villa. Most accommodations are elegantly modern, with hardwood trim, trompe l’oeil detailing, upholstered headboards, and hints of the Romantic Revivalism that permeates the hotel’s original core. Rua Jau 54, 1300-314 Lisboa. & 21/361-56-00. Fax 21/361-56-25. www.pestana.com. 190 units. 190€– 350€ double; 564€–2,550€ suite. Free parking. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram: 28. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; exercise room; Jacuzzi; heated indoor and outdoor pool; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (18€ per 24 hours).
AT PARQUE DAS NACOES Expensive Lisbon’s third Tivoli hotel, the Tejo is close to the Vasco de Gama shopping center and about a 5-minute taxi ride from the airport. The Estação do Oriente, a major transportation hub for Lisbon, is just a 2-minute walk away. Opened in 2001, the hotel has quickly become a landmark in this evolving residential and business
Tivoli Oriente
neighborhood. Bedrooms are midsize, for the most part, and comfortably and tradition- 103 ally furnished. The room selection is wide ranging, giving you a choice of double or twin beds and singles or junior or senior suites. The hotel is also one of the best equipped in the area and has many winning features, such as a 16th-floor gourmet restaurant offering a panoramic view over Lisbon and the Tagus River. Av. D. João II, Parque das Nações, 1990-083 Lisboa & 21/891-51-00. Fax 21/891-53-45. www.tivolihotels. com. 279 units. 108€–330€ double; 415€ suite. AE, MC, V. Parking 12€. Metro: Oriente. Bus: 28. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; indoor heated pool; Jacuzzi; room service; sauna; Wi-Fi (5€ per hour, in lobby). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.
NEAR JARDIM ZOOLOGICO Moderate
Av. Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro, 1099-031 Lisboa. & 21/723-63-63. Fax 21/723-63-64. www.corinthia hotels.com. 518 units. 125€–320€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Children under 12 stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 18€. Metro: Jardim Zoológico. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; concierge; health club & spa; outdoor heated pool; room service; Wi-Fi (18€ per 24 hours, in lobby). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.
Forsaking a concept of traditional Portuguese architecture, this sleekly modern high-rise was constructed in Entre Campos, the city’s financial district. As such, it attracts mainly commercial travelers in Lisbon on business trips. The hotel is so sleek and modern that its public rooms almost evoke a recently constructed airport. You don’t get cozy comfort here, but are offered midsize bedrooms that are comfortable, though furnished in an almost minimalist style that evokes some hotels in Japan. The cuisine in the trio of restaurants here is international, and the hotel is one of the best in the area for facilities, ranging from a spa to an indoor pool.
Hotel Villa Rica
Av. 5 de Outubro 301–319, 1600-035 Lisboa. & 21/004-30-00. Fax 21/004-43-33. www.hotelvillarica. com. 171 units. 126€–243€ double. Parking 20€. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Entre Campos. Bus: 32 or 83. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; health club; indoor heated pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.
IN BELEM Expensive Many discerning guests prefer this little discovery in Belém Jerónimos 8 away from the congestion of Lisbon. This sleek, modern hotel lies close to the Jerónimos Monastery and a few steps from the Tagus riverfront. The hotel is housed in a traditional
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IN ENTRE CAMPOS Moderate
S E T T L I N G I N TO L I S B O N
Corinthia Hotel Lisbon Opened back in the 1980s, this hotel had grown sluggish until a complete renovation in 2003 brought it stylishly into the 21st century. Today the place is state-of-the-art. In the heart of the financial district, it lies a 5-minute taxi ride to the historic center. This government-rated five-star hotel is one of the largest in the city and is equipped with the latest technology, including recreational facilities. We prefer the top floors because of the panoramic views. The most personalized service is in the Executive Club. Guests here also get to enjoy the Sky Lounge on the 24th floor. Bedrooms come in a wide range from standard doubles to spacious suites. In spite of the size of this hotel, the decor in the rooms is rather cozy, and the bathrooms come with tiles. The hotel is also known for its national and international buffets. On Sundays, the hotel stages a brunch for kids and their parents, complete with a playing corner with games.
104 but restored Portuguese building from the 1940s. Each of the midsize bedrooms is individually designed and flooded with natural light, most of them opening onto panoramas of the monument-loaded district. Pristine white walls, tasteful furnishings, and lavish marble bathrooms characterize the rooms, some of which contain private Zen-inspired terraces with green bamboo. The Bussaco Wine Bar, in a hip red-and-white theme, is the only bar in Lisbon that serves wines from the legendary Buçaco Reserve in the north. Rua dos Jerónimos 8, 1400-211 Lisboa. & 21/360-09-00. Fax 21/360-09-08. www.almeidahotels.com. 65 units. 240€–270€ double, 325€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking (in nearby lot) 25€. Tram: 15. Amenities: Bar; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, free Wi-Fi.
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The explosion of restaurants in Lisbon in the early 21st century indicates that the Portuguese regard dining just as seriously as Spaniards. High prices have not suppressed their appetites, and residents of the capital are dining out more frequently than in the past. Plenty of restaurants serve the usual fish and shellfish, and many erstwhile Portuguese colonials from Brazil, and even Mozambique and Goa, have opened restaurants in the capital. The menus in the top establishments remain on par with those of Europe’s leading restaurants. In Lisbon, you’ll encounter the best of Portuguese cooking mixed with Continental classics. You needn’t pay exorbitant prices for top-quality food, though. Restaurants featuring Portuguese and foreign fare—from beer-and-steak taverns to formal town-house dining rooms to cliffside restaurants with panoramic views—suit all budgets. For the best value, look for the “tourist,” or fixed-price menu, which usually includes two or three courses, and sometimes wine, for far less than ordering a la carte. You might also want to consider an evening meal at a fado cafe (see chapter 6). Lisboans tend to eat much later than most American, Canadian, and British visitors, although not as late as their Spanish neighbors. Some restaurants (including Gambrinus, Bachus, and Cervejaria Trindade) stay open very late.
IN THE CENTER Very Expensive FRENCH/TRADITIONAL PORTUGUESE Local gourmets tout Casa da Comida as offering some of the finest food in Lisbon. The dining room is handsomely decorated, the bar is done in the French Empire style, and there’s a charming walled garden. Specialties include lobster with vegetables, roast kid with herbs, a medley of shellfish, and faisão à convento de Alcântara (stewed pheasant marinated in port wine for a day). The cellar contains an excellent selection of wines. The food is often
Casa da Comida
A Picnic in a “Green Lung” Lisbon has many “green lungs” (public parks) where you can go with picnic fixings. Of these, the most appealing is the Jardim Botânico, Rua da Alegria (& 21/ 362-25-03), with its ornate iron benches and shrubs and trees from all parts of the world.
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Lisbon Dining 105
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106 more imaginative here than at some of the other top-rated choices. The chef is extraordinarily attentive to the quality of his ingredients, and the menu never fails to deliver some delightful surprises. Travessa de Amoreiras 1 (close to Jardim de Las Amoreiras). & 21/388-53-76. www.casadacomida.pt. Reservations required. Main courses 32€–65€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Fri 1–3pm; Mon–Sat 8–11pm. Metro: Rato.
INTERNATIONAL/PORTUGUESE On a hillside amid decaying villas and city squares, this green-tile house owned by Célia Pimpista contains an elegant restaurant with a number of different seating areas. You can enjoy a drink under the ornate ceiling of the bar or grab a seat in the indoor dining room—perhaps near the large marble fireplace, in range of the soft music played during dinner; during lunch, you can sit near the garden terrace’s plants and fountain. Specialties include tournedos Clara, stuffed rabbit with red-wine sauce, four kinds of pasta, codfish Clara, filet of sole with orange, pheasant with grapes, and Valencian paella. Again, as in too many of Lisbon’s top-rated restaurants, these dishes aren’t innovative in any way, but they’re often prepared flawlessly. As one of the staff told us, “When a dish has stood the test of time, why change it?” Perhaps you’ll agree.
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Clara Restaurante
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Campo dos Mártires da Pátria 49. & 21/885-30-53. www.lisboa-clara.pt. Reservations required. Main courses 25€–45€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 12:30–3pm; Mon–Sat 7:30–11:30pm. Closed Aug 1–15. Metro: Avenida.
MEDITERRANEAN/MODERN PORTUGUESE In an avant-garde building, Eleven is the only restaurant in Lisbon to win the coveted Michelin star. Filled with contemporary art, it opens onto a panoramic view across Lisbon, including the port. The restaurant is named for 11 friends who banded together because of their love of good food and their desire to see a world-class restaurant open in Lisbon. The location is just above Parque Eduardo VII, next to the Amália Rodrigues Gardens. You will wax poetic after feasting here on Chef Joachim Koerper’s specialties, each based on market-fresh ingredients in harmony with the seasons. He uses locally grown, fresh, and natural produce, creating a luminous elegant, and innovative cuisine. Starters include a foie gras terrine with banana chutney or scallops carpaccio with black truffles, followed by such fish selections as sea bass with beetroot or roasted lobster with butter beans. Meat main courses range from Challans duck with stuffed baby pumpkin to lamb in a lemon crust with a chestnut parfait.
Eleven
Rua Marquês de Fronteira. & 21/386-22-11. www.restauranteleven.com. Reservations required. Main courses 38€–45€; tasting menu 79€. MC, V. Mon–Sat 12:30–3pm and 7:30–11pm. Metro: Parque.
REGIONAL PORTUGUESE/SEAFOOD One of the city’s premier restaurants, Gambrinus is the top choice for fish and shellfish. It’s in the congested heart of the city, off the Rossio, near the rail station, on a little square behind the National Theater. The dining room is resolutely macho, with leather chairs under a beamed cathedral ceiling, but you can also select a little table beside a fireplace on the raised end of the room. Gambrinus offers a diverse a la carte menu and specialties of the day. The shades and nuances of the cuisine definitely appeal to the cultivated palate. The soups, especially the shellfish bisque, are good. The most expensive items are shrimp and lobster dishes. However, you might try conch with shellfish thermidor or sea bass minhota, cooked in tomato sauce with onions, white wine, and ham. If you don’t fancy fish but do like your dishes hot, ask for chicken piri-piri (served with blazing chilies).
Gambrinus
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 23. & 21/342-14-66. www.gambrinuslisboa.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses 20€–35€. AE, MC, V. Daily noon–1:30am. Metro: Rossio or Restauradores.
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Expensive António Clara INTERNATIONAL/PORTUGUESE Even if it weren’t one of the capital’s best restaurants, this exquisite turn-of-the-20th-century Art Nouveau villa would be famous as the former home of one of Portugal’s most revered architects, Miguel Ventura Terra (1866–1918), whose photograph hangs amid polished antiques and gilded mirrors, dating from 1890. You might enjoy a before- or after-dinner drink in the 19thcentury salon, where griffins snarl from the pink-shaded chandelier, or in the groundfloor bar, which contains an art gallery with frequent shows. The dining room itself is one of the loveliest in Lisbon, and the updated classic cooking served there is guaranteed to please. Most of the flavors are sublime. Meals include such specialties as paella for two, chateaubriand béarnaise, monkfish rice, codfish Margarida da Praça (baked with tomatoes and onions and served with deep-fried sweet potatoes), and beef Wellington. The dishes might be familiar, but only the highest-quality ingredients are used. Seafood dishes change often to reflect the best of market offerings.
INTERNATIONAL At the docks, this bar and restaurant opens onto an esplanade by the river. It’s installed in a late-19th-century warehouse, which has been amazingly converted into one of the most beautiful restaurants in Lisbon. Against a backdrop of Frank Lloyd Wright–inspired furniture, you can select from a dazzling array of fresh foodstuffs deftly handled by the skilled chefs in the kitchen. Shrimp in a champagne sauce is just one of the many tempting dishes that await you.
KAIS
Rua da Cintura-Santos. & 21/393-29-30. www.kais-k.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses 25€–30€; fixed-price menus 50€–60€. Mon–Thurs 8pm–midnight; Fri–Sat 8pm–1am. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed first 2 weeks in Aug. Tram: 15.
INTERNATIONAL/PORTUGUESE For a restaurant and bar with a view, consider the 25-story Sheraton Lisboa Hotel & Spa. It’s a celestial setting at night as you survey the twinkling lights of Lisbon. Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa is inventive and inspired, especially by Asian and Mediterranean ingredients. Dull, international hotel cuisine is eschewed in favor of sublime taste sensations created with market-fresh ingredients. He is always creating some new dish to tantalize his clients, perhaps a salad of dried fruits and fresh papaya sprinkled with cheese from a sheep. His filet of cod is served in a savory ragout of fresh clams. Some of his dessert concoctions are pure poetry, especially the Belgian chocolate fondant with ginger ice cream.
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Av. da República 38. & 21/799-42-80. Reservations recommended. Main courses 15€–36€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 12:30–3pm and 7:30–10:30pm. Metro: Saldanha.
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Panorama Restaurant
Restaurante Lapa INTERNATIONAL/ITALIAN/PORTUGUESE This is the
most upscale and most highly recommended restaurant in Lisbon’s major governmentrated five-star hotel, the Lapa Palace (reviewed earlier in this chapter). The dignified, elegant dining room has a view of one of the most lavish gardens in this exclusive neighborhood. This restaurant is a favorite with diplomats from the many embassies and consulates nearby. A la carte items available at lunch and dinner vary with the season. They might include fresh salmon fried with sage, lamb chops with mint sauce, a succulent version of a traditional Portuguese feijoada (meat stew), and perfectly prepared duck
W H E R E TO D I N E
Rua Latino Coelho 1. & 21/312-00-00. Reservations required. Fixed-price menus 30€–39€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 7:30–11:30pm. Bus: 1, 36, 44, or 45.
108 breast baked with pears. This is a perfect spot to retreat to when you want an elegant meal in a refined atmosphere. In the Lapa Palace Hotel, Rua do Pau de Bandeira 4. & 21/394-94-01. Reservations recommended. Main courses 25€–37€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 7:30–10:30pm. Closed for lunch in summer. Tram: 15.
Moderate A Gôndola INTERNATIONAL/ITALIAN A Gôndola serves some of the finest Italian specialties in town. Although the decor isn’t particularly inspired, the good food makes the restaurant worth the trip out of the city center. The price makes a full dinner quite a buy, considering what you get. A first-course selection might be Chaves ham with melon and figs, followed by filet of sole meunière or grilled sardines with pimientos. Yet another course—ravioli or cannelloni Roman style or veal cutlet Milanese—follows. The banquet might conclude with fruit or dessert. The Italian dishes don’t compare with the best in Italy, but they’re competent and professionally served. The restaurant is convenient to the Gulbenkian Museum. Courtyard seating is available.
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Av. de Berna 64. & 21/797-04-26. Reservations recommended. Main courses 16€–27€; fixed-price lunch 28€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 7:30–11pm. Metro: Praça de Espanha. Bus: 16, 26, 31, or 46.
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Adega da Tia Matilde PORTUGUESE Tia Matilde is a large, busy place in the Praça de Espanha area. The atmosphere is often hectic, but the Portuguese love this restaurant—foreign visitors are rare. We once overhead a Portuguese father here telling his son, “Food like this will make a man out of you.” Indeed, it’s a great place to sample the savory and hearty specialties of Ribatejo, including cabrito assado (roast mountain goat), arroz de frango (chicken with rice), and pungent caldeirada (fish stew). Rua da Beneficência 77. & 21/797-21-72. www.adegatiamatilde.com. Main courses 10€–28€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–4pm; Mon–Fri 7:30–11pm. Metro: Praça d’Espanha. Bus: 31.
INTERNATIONAL/PORTUGUESE Amusing murals cover the wood-paneled facade of this deluxe restaurant; inside, the decor is elaborate and sophisticated. The ambience is a mixture of a private salon in a Russian palace, a turn-of-the20th-century English club, and a stylized Manhattan bistro. A brass staircase winds around a column of illuminated glass to the dining room. Menu specialties change frequently, depending on what ingredients are available. Full meals might include mixed grill Bachus, chateaubriand with béarnaise, mountain goat, beef Stroganoff, shrimp Bachus, or other daily specials. The chef has a conservative approach, and perhaps because of this, he reportedly rarely gets complaints. The wine list is extensive.
Bachus
Largo da Trindade 8–9. & 21/342-28-28. www.bachus.com.pt. Reservations recommended. Main courses 17€–26€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Fri noon–2pm and 7pm–midnight; Sat–Sun 6pm–2am. Metro: Chiado. Bus: 58.
Il Gattopardo Restaurant ITALIAN The most appealing and stylish Italian restau-
rant in Lisbon is distinctly different from the pasta and pizza joints that have filled that niche until now. On the third floor of the Hotel Dom Pedro, it has a soothing color scheme of beiges, browns, exposed hardwoods, and leopard skin. Virtually everything was imported from Italy, including many staff members, who prepare ultrafresh seafood and pastas, among other dishes. We’re mad for pappardelle seasoned with cubed zucchini and saffron. Risotto with cuttlefish is another winner, as are sea wolf coated with bread crumbs and sautéed grilled swordfish steak in parsley sauce, and roasted veal cooked in
heady Barolo wine. The chef is adept at preparing tender duck breast flavored with honey 109 and vinegar sauce. An outdoor terrace ringed with potted shrubs and vines provides sweeping views over the surrounding district. In the Hotel Dom Pedro, Av. Engenheiro, Duarte Pacheco. & 21/389-66-00. Reservations recommended. Main courses 15€–25€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 7:30–11pm. Metro: Marquês de Pombal.
Martinho da Arcada PORTUGUESE In its way, the Martinho is one of the city’s most famous restaurants, thanks to its age (it was established in 1782) and its association with Portugal’s beloved poet, Fernando Pessoa, whose photos hang on the wall, just above the table and chair he used to compose some of his most famous works. There are three distinct sections to this place, so it pays to wander a bit before concluding that you’ve seen everything. There’s a cafe section, for drinks and sandwiches; an outdoor terrace, where the menu is less complete than what you’ll find inside; and an inside dining room, with antecedents that go back more to the 18th century. The menu here is long and varied, but if you ask for what the kitchen is proudest of, a staff member will talk about the house-style cod (a thick “tenderloin” of cod served with twice-cooked onions and fried potatoes) and house-style filet steak served with coffee sauce and fresh vegetables.
Marisqueira de Santa Marta PORTUGUESE This is the kind of family-friendly
Travessa do Enviado da Inglaterra 1. & 21/352-56-38. www.marisqueirasantamarta.pt.vu. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses 9€–18€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 9am–midnight. Metro: Avenida or Marques de Pombal.
PORTUGUESE O Funil (The Funnel) does cozinha Portuguesa (Portuguese cuisine) so well and so inexpensively that a line forms at the door; it’s often hard to get a table. The owners serve their own vinho da casa (house wine)—try the red Alijó. The kitchen buys good-quality meats and fish fresh daily. The menu offers an array of excellent choices, including filet of fresh fish with rice, strips of cooked codfish flavored with herbs, roast goat with vegetables and roast potatoes, tiger shrimp in a picante sauce, and clams in wine sauce.
O FUNIL
Av. Elias Garcia 82A. & 21/796-60-07. www.ofunil.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses 13€–23€. AE, MC, V. Daily noon–3:30pm; Tues–Sat 7–10:30pm. Metro: Campo Pequeno. Bus: 1, 32, 36, 38, 44, or 45.
Olivier Avenida INTERNATIONAL To escape from the often heavy Portuguese cuisine, you may want to drop into this chic rendezvous that specializes in much lighter fare. In a luxurious cosmopolitan setting, you can dine under chandeliers with light
5 W H E R E TO D I N E
fish and shellfish house that maîtres d’hôtel throughout this prosperous neighborhood recommend to their hotel clients as a bustling, fairly priced emporium of uncontroversial Portuguese food and wine. Designed as an Iberian tavern, with pinewood chairs, tables, and paper tablecloths, it’s lined with cheerful Portuguese blue-and-yellow tiles, and remains an aggressively unpretentious, brightly lit place with good food but not a lot of potential for romance. The menu lists dishes that include codfish prepared “our way” (with onions and fried potatoes); a shellfish platter for two; oysters with lemon sauce; smoked ham omelets; mixed grills; grilled pork spareribs; grilled sea bass; and grilled filets of pork. You’ll find the place about 2 blocks from the landmark Avenida da Liberdade.
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Praça do Comércio 3. & 21/887-92-59. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses 15€–22€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 8am–11pm. Metro: Terreiro do Paço.
110 streaming in through the large windows. Light luncheon fare is featured, even snacks, though you can also drop in for a full-service dinner. The list of starters is one of the most varied and tastiest in the area, ranging from octopus carpaccio with sweet peppers to game sausage with a quail egg. The chef also specializes in Caesar salads, including one with grilled scallops. Try the stone bass filet on the grill or medallions of veal with fresh morels and white truffles, finishing with such desserts as cheesecake with guava jelly. At the Tivoli Jardim, Rua Julio César Machado. & 21/317-41-05. www.restaurante-olivier.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses 15€–25€. MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 8pm–midnight. Metro: Avenida.
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Restaurante Doca Peixe SEAFOOD This restaurant, whose Portuguese name means “Fish Dock,” stands virtually under the Ponte do 25 de Abril. The best views of the Tagus are from one of the tables upstairs. The fresh fish served here is among the best quality offered in the markets of Lisbon. Every variety of fish and shellfish seems to be swimming in the small aquarium at the entrance. If you don’t want your fish chargrilled, you can order it cooked in salt or baked. Codfish is a specialty, appearing cooked with clams and flavored with fresh coriander (cilantro), or you can order the grilled platter of shellfish, one of the true delights. For the meat fancier, succulent sirloin steaks are among several winning choices.
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Doca de Santo Amaro, Armazém 14. & 21/397-35-65. www.docapeixe.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses 17€–43€. AE, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–3pm and 9:30pm–1am. Bus: 15 or 38.
Restaurante Pabe INTERNATIONAL/PORTUGUESE
Convenient to Praça do Marquês de Pombal, this cozy pub does its best to emulate English establishments. There’s soft carpeting, mugs hanging over the long bar, a beamed ceiling, coats of arms, and engravings of hunting scenes around the walls. Two saloon-type doors lead into a wood-paneled dining room, where you can dine on meat specially imported—not from England, but the United States. Chateaubriand for two is among the fanciest dishes. If you prefer local fare, start with shrimp cocktail and then try Portuguese veal liver or supremo de galinha (chicken breast with mushrooms). The crowd tends to be a wellgroomed Portuguese set, in addition to resident Americans and Brits.
Rua Duque de Palmela 27A. & 21/353-74-84. www.restaurantepabe.com.pt. Reservations required. Main courses 15€–25€. AE, DC, MC, V. Bar daily noon–1am. Restaurant daily noon–3pm and 7pm–midnight. Metro: Marquês de Pombal.
INTERNATIONAL Restaurant 33 is a treasure. Decorated in a style evocative of an English hunting lodge, it lies near many recommended hotels, including the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon (p. 90). It specializes in succulent seafood dishes, including shellfish rice served in a crab shell, smoked salmon, and lobster Tour d’Argent; it also features tender, well-flavored pepper steak. One reader from New Rochelle, New York, found her meal here “flawless.” A pianist performs during dinner. You can enjoy a glass of port in the small bar at the entrance or in the private garden.
Restaurant 33
Rua Alexandre Herculano 33A. & 21/354-60-79. Reservations recommended. Main courses 18€–32€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 12:30–3pm and 8–10:30pm; Sat 8–10:30pm. Metro: Marquês Do Pombal. Bus: 6 or 9.
Inexpensive António INTERNATIONAL/PORTUGUESE Portuguese businesspeople flock to António for its relaxing ambience and good food. It’s a refreshing oasis of blue-and-white glazed earthenware tiles, a free-form blue ceiling, and white tablecloths topped with blue
linen. The menu is printed in English. You can start with excellent shellfish soup. Fish 111 dishes garnished with vegetables include filets with tomato sauce, and baked sole. Polvo à lagareiro (octopus with broiled potatoes, olive oil, and garlic) is a justifiably popular specialty. If you prefer fowl or meat, try frango na prata (chicken broiled in foil with potatoes) or pork with clams Alentejana-style. The owner-manager recommends açorda de marisco, a stewlike breaded shellfish-and-egg dish. The dessert list is extensive, even listing a banana split. The chefs still cook exactly as their parents and grandparents did, and that seems to please the mainly local clientele. Rua Tomás Ribeiro 63. & 21/353-87-80. Main courses 9€–18€. MC, V. Mon–Sat 8am–11pm. Metro: Picoas. Bus: 36, 45, 90, or 101.
Cervejaria Brilhante PORTUGUESE/SEAFOOD Lisboans from every walk of life stop here for a stein of beer and mariscos (seafood). The tavern is decorated with stone arches, wood-paneled walls, and pictorial tiles of sea life. The front window is packed with an appetizing array of king crabs, oysters, lobsters, baby clams, shrimp, and even barnacles. The price changes every day, depending on the market, and you pay by the kilo. This is hearty, robust eating, although attracting a waiter’s attention is a challenge.
Cervejaria Trindade PORTUGUESE Cervejaria Trindade is a combination German beer hall and Portuguese tavern. In operation since 1836, it’s the oldest tavern in Lisbon, owned by the brewers of Sagres beer. It was built on the foundations of the 13thcentury Convento dos Frades Tinos, which was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake. Surrounded by walls tiled with Portuguese scenes, you can order tasty little steaks and heaps of crisp french-fried potatoes. Many Portuguese diners prefer the bife na frigideira (steak with mustard sauce and a fried egg, served in a clay frying pan). But the tavern also features shellfish; the house specialties are amêijoas (clams) à Trindade and giant prawns. For dessert, try a slice of queijo da serra (cheese from the mountains) and coffee. Meals are served in the inner courtyard on sunny days.
Hard Rock Cafe AMERICAN Set on two floors of a historic 18th-century palace, this is one of approximately 140 branches of one of the world’s most visible restaurant franchises. Because it’s at the lower end of the Avenida da Liberdade, in a neighborhood jammed with cheaper, more colorful, and more aggressively ethnic Portuguese restaurants, you may want to skip it. The cafe contains a collection of “museum quality” rock’n’-roll memorabilia—in this case, clothing worn by Elton John, Madonna, David Bowie, and some of The Beatles—stiff drinks and juicy burgers, a vintage American Cadillac suspended surrealistically from the ceiling, and most endearing of all, a youthful and enthusiastic Portuguese staff who seem genuinely interested in whether you have a good time. Menu items that seem to never go out of style are the Tupelo chicken tenders, Santa Fe spring rolls, and Hard Rock nachos. A DJ spins danceable tunes every Friday and Saturday 11pm until 1am; and there’s live music from local Portuguese bands every Sunday and Monday 11pm to 1am. Av. da Liberdade 2. & 21/324-52-80. www.hardrock.com. Reservations not accepted except for parties of 6 or more. Burgers, salads, and main courses 8.50€–20€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–1am. Bar open until at least 2am. Metro: Rossio or Restauradores.
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Rua Nova de Trindade 20C. & 21/342-35-06. www.cervejariatrindade.pt. Main courses 8€–33€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2am. Metro: Chiado. Bus: 15, 20, 51, or 100.
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Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 105 (opposite the Coliseu). & 21/346-14-07. Main courses 12€–22€;. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–midnight. Metro: Rossio or Restauradores. Bus: 1, 2, 36, 44, or 45.
112 Pastelaria Versailles CAFE/PASTRIES This is the most famous teahouse in Lisbon, and it has been declared part of the “national patrimony.” Some patrons reputedly have been coming here since it opened in 1932. In older days, the specialty was licungo, the famed black tea of Mozambique; you can still order it, but nowadays many drinkers enjoy English brands. (The Portuguese claim that they introduced the custom of tea-drinking to the English court after Catherine of Bragança married Charles II in 1662.) The decor is rich, with chandeliers, gilt mirrors, stained-glass windows, tall stucco ceilings, and black-and-white marble floors. You can also order milkshakes, mineral water, and fresh orange juice, along with beer and liquor. The wide variety of snacks includes codfish balls and toasted ham-and-cheese sandwiches. A limited array of platters of simple but wholesome Portuguese fare is on offer, too.
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Av. da República 15A. & 21/354-63-40. www.pastelariaversailles.com. Sandwiches 3€; pastries 1€; plats du jour 9.50€–22€. AE, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–10pm. Metro: Saldanha.
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Restaurante a Colmeia VEGETARIAN There’s no elevator to haul you up to the third floor of the 17th-century building that contains this restaurant, but most of the regular clients consider that as part of the healthy vibe of this place. One of the few macrobiotic, all-vegetarian restaurants in Lisbon, with a commitment to serving only produce raised without chemical fertilizers or pesticides, it consists of a series of glass display counters that were inspired by an American-style cafeteria, and a trio of highceilinged dining rooms painted pink, blue, and orange, respectively. Various preparations of tofu and wheat gluten, flavored differently every day, are enduringly popular, as are different dishes of collard greens, kelp, squash, and spinach, as well as salads, spinach cakes, and “vegetable flans.” Rua da Emenda 110. & 21/347-05-00. Main courses 7€–9€. No credit cards. Mon–Fri noon–3pm. Metro: Baixa Chiado. Tram: 28. Bus: 58 or 100.
Restaurante Sancho INTERNATIONAL/PORTUGUESE Sancho is a cozy rustic-style restaurant with classic Iberian decor—beamed ceiling, fireplace, leather-andwood chairs, and stucco walls. In summer, it has air-conditioning. Fish gratinée soup is a classic way to begin. Shellfish, always expensive, is the specialty. Main dishes are likely to include the chef ’s special hake or pan-broiled Portuguese steak. If your palate is fireproof, order churrasco de cabrito ao piri-piri (goat with pepper sauce). For dessert, sample the crêpes Suzette or perhaps chocolate mousse. This is a longtime (since 1962) local favorite, and the recipes never change. As a waiter explained, “As long as we can keep the dining room full every night, why change?” Travessa da Glória 14 (just off Av. da Liberdade, near Praça dos Restauradores). & 21/346-97-80. www. restaurantesancho.com.pt. Reservations recommended. Main courses 14€–22€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–3pm and 7–10:30pm; Sat 7–10:30pm. Metro: Avenida or Restauradores.
Telheiro PORTUGUESE Telheiro (Portuguese for “the roof ”) is a bistrolike place not far from the Sheraton Hotel. Under beamed ceilings, diners sit on wooden chairs with heart shapes carved out of their backs. Many staff members are from the former Portuguese colony of Angola. Different robust, hearty specialties are featured every day, including gazpacho, cabbage-and-potato soup, mussels, suckling pig, grilled fresh sea bass or sole, and seafood with rice in a casserole. For dessert, try fresh Portuguese fruit. Note that the kitchen makes little concession to “lily-livered” (the words of one waiter here) foreign tastes.
Rua Latino Coelho 10A. & 21/353-40-07. Reservations recommended. Main courses 9€–22€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 7–11pm (closed Sat July–Sept). Bus: 30.
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IN THE BAIRRO ALTO Expensive REGIONAL PORTUGUESE At the western edge of the Bairro Alto, about 2 blocks northeast of the Alcântara subway station and 2 blocks west of the Basilica da Estrela, this small restaurant is cramped and convivial. It’s known for the culinary specialties of Trás-os-Montes, a rugged province in northeast Portugal, and for its homey, unpretentious warmth. Robust specialties include alheiras fritas com arroz de grelos (tripe with collard greens and rice) and lulas grelhadas (grilled squid served in a black clay casserole). To finish, try Dona Adelaide’s charcade de ovos (a secret recipe made with egg yolks). Although we like this hearty cooking, the flavors might be too pungent for some palates.
Tasquinha d’Adelaide
Rua do Patrocínio 70–74. & 21/396-22-39. Reservations recommended. Main courses 13€–29€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 12:30–4pm and 8pm–2am. Metro: Rato. Tram: 25, 28, or 30. Bus: 9, 15, or 28.
Moderate Bota Alta, at the top of a steep street in the Bairro Alto, boasts a faithful clientele that eagerly crams into its two dining rooms and sometimes stands at the bar waiting for a table. It contains rustic artifacts and lots of original art and photographs. Meals—some familiar to 19th-century diners—might include beefsteak Bota Alta; several preparations of codfish, including bacalhau real (fried codfish with port wine and cognac); and a frequently changing array of daily specials, including Hungarian goulash. We still aren’t sure why bacalhau is so popular—the Portuguese claim to have as many fish off their coast as there are days on the calendar—but don’t leave Portugal without sampling it at least once.
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Bota Alta PORTUGUESE
Travessa da Queimada 35–37. & 21/342-79-59. Reservations required. Main courses 12€–23€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 7–10:45pm. Metro: Chiado. Bus: 58 or 100.
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Calçada Engenheiro Miguel Pais 39. & 21/396-33-39. www.comidadesanto.pt. Reservations recommended. Main courses 15€–18€; tasting menu 38€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3:30pm and 7:30pm–1am. Metro: Rato. Bus: 58.
Consenso CONTINENTAL/PORTUGUESE Set within the cellar of the palace where the Marquês de Pombal (rebuilder of Lisbon after the earthquake of 1755) was born, this restaurant manages to be chic, historically conscious, and trendy all at the same time. It consists of four separate rooms, each with an individualized decor based on air (the bar), fire (trompe l’oeil flames adorn the ceiling, and an iron stove sends warmth into
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BRAZILIAN Opening in the early 1980s, this was the first all-Brazilian restaurant in Lisbon. At the edge of the Bairro Alto, in a century-old former private house, it contains only 12 tables. Recorded Brazilian music plays softly from the bar, lending a New World flavor, and a quintet of oversize panels depicts huge, idealized jungle scenes. The appropriate beginning of any meal is a deceptively potent caipirinha (aguardiente cocktail with limes and sugar). Main courses include spicy versions of feijoada (meat-and-bean stew), picanha (boiled Brazilian beef with salt), vatapá (peppery shrimp), and several versions of succulent grilled fish. The place is incredibly popular; reservations are very important.
Comida de Santo
114 the room), earth, and water—check out their respective color schemes. If you opt for a meal here, you won’t be alone: The prime minister of Portugal drops in for meals from time to time, bringing with him one or several of his cabinet ministers. Impeccably prepared menu items include marinated salmon with citrus pâté, bacon with dates, grilled monkfish and grouper served with shrimp-studded rice, and monkfish loin in a spicy cream sauce. Veal medallions “à la Consenso” are served with shellfish and shrimp.
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Rua da Academia das Ciências 1–1A. & 21/346-86-11. www.restauranteconsenso.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses 13€–30€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7:30–11:30pm. Closed holidays. Metro: Chiado. Bus: 28, 58, 92, or 100.
Pap’ Açorda PORTUGUESE This restaurant is set on a narrow medieval street in the Bairro Alto, a short walk from such popular bars as Portas Largas. Pap’ Açorda’s facade was originally conceived for a bakery. Today it’s high on the list of hip, perpetually fashionable restaurants for the counterculture and media crowd; as such, competition for an available table is stiff. It welcomes one of Lisbon’s most colorful collections of people into its dimly lit seashell-pink-and-cream interior. Most visitors order a before-dinner drink at the long, marble-topped bar, which dominates the front of the restaurant. Prospective diners jockey for the attentions of the somewhat blasé maître d’hôtel. If you ever get around to dining (and some clients actually prefer to linger at the bar as a social ritual unto itself ), you’ll be treated to delectable cuisine that includes Spanish-style mussels, shellfish rice, sirloin steak with mushrooms, and a wide array of fish and shellfish dishes. The house specialty, açorda, is a traditional dish with coriander, bread, seafood, eggs, garlic, and olive oil. Rua da Atalaia 57–59. & 21/346-48-11. Reservations required. Main courses 18€–42€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–2:30pm and 8–11:30pm. Metro: Chiado.
Inexpensive Café Martinho da Arcada PORTUGUESE
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In the Baixa district, this is the oldest cafe in Lisbon, opening in 1782 (other sources claim 1778). It was once frequented by modernist poet Fernando Pessoa. A table is still laid for him as if the staff expects him to drop in at any time (he died in 1935). You can patronize the place as a cafe or a fullservice restaurant. Coffee drinkers come here to enjoy the scrumptious pastries baked fresh daily. A specialty is pastéis de nata or cream cake. The cookery in the wood-paneled dining room is robustly regional, including cataplana (claw stew), various platters of codfish, and cabrito or baby goat.
Praça do Comércio 3. & 21/887-92-59. Reservations not required. Main courses 12€–22€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 8am–10pm. Metro: Baixa-Chiado.
PORTUGUESE This superb little regional restaurant in a former fish warehouse serves some of the best chargrilled fresh fish in Lisbon. It’s a cozy waterfront place with views over the Tagus that uses generations-old recipes. Caldeirada, a hearty fishermen’s stew, will fortify you for a day. The chef also prepares a tasty paella for two and tender grilled steaks, sometimes with a peppercorn sauce. Most dishes, except the expensive shellfish, are at the lower end of the price scale.
Cais da Ribeira
Cais do Sodré Armazém A-2. & 21/342-36-11. Reservations recommended. Main courses 15€–40€. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Fri and Sun noon–3pm; Tues–Sun 7pm–1am. Metro: Cais do Sodré.
Cantinho da Paz INDIAN This restaurant honors the cuisine of the lost colony of Goa, which the government of India took over in 1961. Many Portuguese Goans
brought their spicy cuisine to Lisbon and set up dining rooms, and this is the best of the 115 lot. The curries draw discerning diners, who are richly rewarded with spices and flavors. Our favorite is shrimp curry flavored with coconut and laced with cream. But you might opt for a fiery version made with lamb, fish, or poultry. Veal stew comes with different types and levels of spiciness, and succulent medallions of pork are richly flavored with ginger and garlic. The helpful owners speak English. Rua da Paz 4 (off Rua dos Poiais de São Bento). & 21/396-96-98. Reservations required. Main courses 10€–30€. AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 12:30–3pm and 7–11pm. Tram: 28. Bus: 6 or 49. Metro: Chiado.
Casa Nostra ITALIAN Maria Paola Porru, a movie sound engineer whose travels have exposed her to cinematic circles across Europe, rules this hip postmodern hideaway. Behind a century-old, deliberately understated facade, the setting is simple, stylish, and informal. All pastas are homemade on the premises. Accomplished menu items include fettuccine al mascarpone (fettuccine with cream cheese), lasagna, spaghetti with Portuguese clams, and several versions of grilled meat. A favorite dessert is Sicilianstyle tiramisu, a rich dessert made with ladyfingers, coffee, and mascarpone cream.
IN THE CHIADO DISTRICT Moderate
In the Hotel Bairro Alto, Praça Luís de Camões 8. & 21/340-82-52. www.bairroaltohotel.com. Reservations recommended. Lunch main courses 12€–19€; dinner main courses 19€–27€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 7:30–10:30pm. Metro: Chiado.
Sacramento do Chiado INTERNATIONAL/PORTUGUESE This place has emerged as the virtual symbol of the new and trendy Chiado district. If you opt for a meal here, get ready for access to a labyrinth of inner chambers loaded with intriguingly carved arts and crafts, some of it from Indonesia, and much of it, based on this place’s self-definition as an “emporium,” for sale. Beginning around 8pm, you’re likely to find a hip mixture of Brazilian and Portuguese night owls scattered throughout the various bars and dining areas associated with this place. Steak tartare, tenderloin steak, pork tenderloin with prunes, stuffed breast of chicken with ratatouille, and bacalhau of cod “Sacramento,” with potatoes and garlic, are each well prepared and flavorful. Calçada do Sacramento 44. & 21/342-05-72. www.sacramentodochiado.com. Main courses 9€–32€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 12:30–3pm; daily 7:30pm–midnight. Metro: Chiado.
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FUSION/MEDITERRANEAN/PORTUGUESE An experience within this manicured, impeccably correct dining room is a very far cry from any of the city’s larger and more mass-market dining options. Small-scale and personalized, and ringed with tilework in the Hispano-Moorish style, it’s the equivalent of a meal within the homes of (wealthy) Portuguese hipsters. A uniformed staff will show you to one of only 32 seats, within a room that reeks of the baroque age with an updated sense of the 21stcentury arts in the form of photographs by Rui Calçada Bastos. Cuisine, as conceived by Chef Luís Rodriguez, includes fresh seasonal ingredients from local markets, with a goodly number of vegetarian specialties. Look for cream of mushroom soup with ham; a risotto made from Swiss chard, eggplant, and fresh tomatoes; a medley of grouper, potatoes, and anchovies with boletus mushrooms; a tartare of salmon with fresh herbs; and a confit of fresh hake with sweet potato cannelloni.
Flores
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Rua de Rosa 84–90 (enter at Travessa do Poço da Cidade 60). & 21/342-59-31. Reservations recommended. Main courses 11€–19€. AE, MC, V. Tues–Fri 12:30–2:30pm; Tues–Sat 8–11pm; Sun 1–2:30pm. Metro: Chiado. Tram: 28 or 28B.
116 Inexpensive New Wok ASIAN This place is so edgy that every urban metrosexual wannabe in Lisbon wants to be seen here. Set a few paces from the São Carlos Opera House, less than a block from the shop-lined Rua Garrett, it’s angular, trendy, and minimalist—the kind of place you might have expected in Rome, Rio, or London. But it has a distinctly Portuguese accent, a color scheme of apple green and white, and room for 48 diners at a time. A large window exposes a view of the busy kitchen. The menu focuses on simple wok dishes, noodle dishes, and dim sum (Chinese dumplings) with assorted stuffings. Salmon teriyaki and pad Thai with chicken, shrimp,
