FW-190 ARF Assembly Manual

FW-190 ARF ASSEMBLY MANUAL 513-755-7494 • www.airbornemedia.com

Specifications Wingspan: ............... 62-1/2 in. Wing Area: ............. 718-3/4 sq in. Length: ....................51-1/2 in. Weight: ....................7-3/4 lb. Recommended Motors: E-Flite 60, AXI 4130, or equivalent Recommended Speed Control (ESC): Jeti Advance PLUS 70 Amp, Phoenix 80 Amp, or equivalent Recommended Batteries: Two 4000mAh 3s2p lithium-polymer packs, or equivalent (used in series) Recommended Radio: 5-channel with 5 servos: 4 standard size (40-70 in./oz.), 1 low-profile retract FW-190 ARF Manual

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WARNING READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL. A Radio-Controlled aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas, preferably at AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions included with your radio, motor, speed control and batteries. We urge you to join the AMA (the Academy of Model Aeronautics) and a local R/C club. The AMA is the governing body of model aviation and membership is required to fly at AMA clubs. Though joining the AMA provides many benefits, one of the primary reasons to join is liability protection. Coverage is not limited to flying at contests or on the club field. It even applies to flying at public demonstrations and air shows. Failure to comply with the Safety Code (the r/c portion is printed in the back of this manual) may endanger insurance coverage. Additionally, training programs and instructors are available at AMA club sites to help you get started the right way. There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below: Academy of Model Aeronautics 5161 East Memorial Drive Muncie, IN 47302 Phone (800) 435-9262 www.modelaircraft.org

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condition and a correctly sized electric motor and components (speed control, batteries, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process. You must correctly install all R/C and other components so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air. (Installation shown in the manual is a suggestion. You may have to change mounting steps to use your radio equipment.) You must check the operation of the model before every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this type of model before, we recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose membership includes experienced pilots. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if this model will be used for extremely high stress flying, such as racing, or if an electric power system larger than one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the increased stress. WARNING: The cowl included in this kit is made of fiberglass, the fibers of which may cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into a part to remove fiberglass dust, as the dust will blow back into your eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and sanding fiberglass parts. Vacuum the parts and the work area thoroughly after working with fiberglass parts.

Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things

you can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over groups of people. 1. Your H&M Performance model should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, this model, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property. 2. You must assemble this model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify this model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or un-flyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written instructions should be considered as correct. 3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong. 4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class Page 2

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FW-190 ARF Manual

Other Items Needed (not included in the kit) • • • •

Electric Motor Electronic Speed Control Propeller Servos with 60 in./oz. of torque (4 - for ailerons, elevator and rudder) • Low–Profile Retract Servo (1) • 12” Servo Lead Extension (2) • “Y” Harness

Additional Required Tools and Adhesives

Beside each step you will notice a check box (or perhaps two). These are so you can keep track of your progress while building your kit. For steps that have multiple boxes, the step must be performed multiple times. If hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, etc.) are required in a particular step, you’ll see note to the right of the step calling out the hardware and quantity of each needed.

Tools • Adjustable wrench • Canopy Scissors • Drill • Drill Bit: 1/16”, 5/64”, 1/8”, etc. (small sizes) • Foam: 1/2” • Hex Wrenches • Hobby Knife • Phillips screwdriver (small) • Pliers • Rotary Power tool with grinding bit • Square

Fuselage • Fuselage (1) • Canopy (1) • Cowl (1) • Seat Back (1) • Engine Plate (1)

Adhesives • 6-Minute Epoxy • 30-Minute Epoxy • Thin CA (cyanoacrylate) Glue • Medium CA (cyanoacrylate) Glue • CA Remover/Debonder • Threadlock • Canopy Glue • Clear Silicone Adhesive/Caulk • Masking Tape

Wings • Left Wing Panel (1) • Left Aileron (1) • Left Servo Cover (1) • Right Wing Panel (1) • Right Aileron (1) • Right Servo Cover (1) • CA Hinges (6) Tail • Rudder • Horizontal Stab • Left Elevator Half (1) • Right Elevator Half (1) • CA Hinges (9)

Other Required Items • Epoxy Brushes and/or Mixing Sticks for Epoxy • Paper towels • Pencil • Rubbing Alcohol • Ruler • String • T-Pins

Before Starting Assembly

Remove each part from its bag for inspection. Closely inspect the fuselage, wing panels, rudder, and stabilizer for damage. If you find any damaged or missing parts, contact us immediately. If you find any wrinkles in the covering, use a heat gun or covering iron to remove them. Use caution while working around areas where the colors overlap to prevent separating the colors.

FW-190 ARF Manual

Using the Manual Be sure to read each step thoroughly before you start the step. Test-fit the parts together to make sure they fit properly. If necessary trim to fit.

Hardware • Dihedral Brace (1) • Wheels (2) • Tailwheel (1) • 6” Pushrods (2) • Wing Pins (2) • Hardwood Servo Mounting Blocks (4) • Strut Covers (2) • Servo Tray (1) • Retract Servo Rails (2) • Retract Servo Mount (1) • Clevises/Horns Package (1) • Screws/Nuts/Collars Package (1) • Wing Bolt Doubler (1) • Cowl Fastener Blocks (4) • Motor Mount (1) • Motor Mount Hardware Package (1)

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Let’s begin construction by working on the left (port) wing of your FW-190 ARF. Step 1 - Wing Assembly Remove the tape from the aileron servo cover on the underside of left wing. This cover is unique to this wing half, so be sure to mark it as the left (L). Using a hobby knife, cut away the covering from pre-cut servo arm hole in the cover. Step 2 - Wing Assembly Using your servo as a guide, you’ll next need to glue on two of the 1”x1”x.5” hardwood blocks to the servo cover. First, make sure that your servo is centered and the servo arm is mounted perpendicular to the length of the servo (90° crossways) when the servo is centered. Lay the servo onto the cover and position the servo so the arm is in the center of the hole (both in width and height). Hold, tape or clamp the servo firmly in position and use a pencil to trace around the mounting arms and bottom sides of the servo. Remove the servo. Pay attention to the grain of the blocks. One of end-grain sides of each block should be glued to the surface of the aileron cover, making the grain running with the width of the servo. Using medium CA, glue one block each side of the servo tracing, butting-up against the sides of the servo and the bottom of the servo’s mounting arms. Run a small fillet of medium CA around each of the hardwood blocks for added strength. (Expert tip: Harden the hardwood block with thin CA. Lightly coat the opposite end-grain side of each block with thin CA and allow it to completely soak in to the wood. DO NOT USE A CA ACCELERATOR FOR THIS STEP.) Once the glue has cured, slide the servo back in to position, then mark and drill the four mounting holes for the servo using a 1/16” drill. Using the hardware that came with your radio, attach the servo to the mounting blocks. Step 3 - Wing Assembly Next, attach the 12” servo lead extension to the servo. (Expert tip: To make sure that this extension Page 

doesn’t come unplugged from the servo you can use one of the many servo clips on the market, a piece of heat-shrink tubing, or use a 1-1/2” to 2” piece of electrical tape. Wrap the tape tightly around the connection and it will give you a secure, trouble-free bond.) Step 4 - Wing Assembly On the top of the wing near the wing’s root, you’ll find a 3/4” pre-cut hole which is just underneath the covering. Carefully cut the covering away and you’ll notice a piece of string taped inside the wing. In the underside of the wing you’ll find the other end of the string taped inside the aileron servo compartment. Lightly remove the tape and tie the end of the string to the end of the servo extension. Now pull the string on the top of the wing carefully and you will slowly pull the extension through the wing until the extension’s connector comes out of the top hole. 2x10mm

Step 5 - Wing Assembly screws (4) Fit the aileron cover back into the bottom of the wing and drill a 1/16” hole into each corner of the cover, about 1/8” in from each side. Be sure to drill through the cover and through the plywood which the cover rests on (about 3/8” of depth total). Using four of the provided 2x10mm Phillip-head screws, attach the cover into position on the bottom of the wing. Step 6 - Wing Assembly If you haven’t already, remove the aileron from the wing by pulling out. You’ll notice that it’s held in position by three hinges. These hinges fit into pre-cut slots along the trailing edge of the wing and the corresponding leading edge of the aileron. These hinges are held in position with thin CA. (Note: it is very important to use fresh, thin CA for this step as the thin CA will wick into the hinge very easy and make a good, permanent bond. DO NOT USE A CA ACCELERATOR ON ANY OF THE HINGES.

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FW-190 ARF Manual

To aid in wicking the CA glue into the hinge, drill a 1/8” hole in the center of each slot (three in the trailing edge of the wing, and three in the leading edge of the aileron). Trim the holes with a hobby knife as needed to give a clean hole.

When properly lined up, mark the two mounting holes and drill them using a 1/16” drill bit. The hole should go completely through the aileron and use care to drill the holes as straight as possible. To aid in the next step, enlarge the holes using a 5/64” drill.

Step 7 - Wing Assembly In the center of each of the three hinges, push a T-pin about halfway through. Then push each of the hinges into the leading edge of the aileron. Push them in until the Tpin rests against the aileron. Then hold the aileron in place and push the hinges into the wing until the Tpins are resting against the trailing edge of the wing. Once the gap between the wing and aileron is only as wide as the T-pins, pull the T-pins out of each of the aileron hinges. Make sure that the left and right gaps between the aileron and the wing are equal and the aileron can pivot freely. Once you’re satisfied with the fit, bend the aileron about 45° down and drop 5-6 drops of the fresh, thin CA into the middle of each hinge. Work the aileron up and down and allow the CA to work it’s way completely into the hinge. Wipe away any excess CA that may be in the hinge gap. Using the same technique, turn the wing over and apply 5-6 more drops of thins CA into the bottom of each hinge. Set the wing aside and allow the CA to cure completely on it’s own. DO NOT USE A CA ACCELERATOR ON ANY OF THE HINGES.

Step 10 - Wing Assembly Assemble an aileron pushrod by locating a clevis base, a clevis pin and a 6” pushrod. Carefully spread open the prongs of the clevis and push the clevis pin into the holes in the end of the clevis. Screw the clevis on to the threaded end of the pushrod. Continue twisting the clevis until it is in the middle of the threaded portion of the pushrod.

Step 8 - Wing Assembly Locate one control horn top, back and two 2 x 25mm Phillips-head screws. Position the control horn top on the aileron as shown in the drawings. It should be straight back from the servo arm, and the row of holes in the vertical part of the arm should line up over the hinge gap.

2x25mm screws (2)

Step 9 - Wing Assembly Place the control horn top back on the aileron, and insert the 2 mounting screws through the aileron. Secure the horn to the aileron by attaching the nylon mounting plate to the top of the aileron.

Step 11 - Wing Assembly Make sure that the servo is in the neutral (centered) position. Snap the clevis pin in to the outer-most hole of the aileron servo arm. Holding the aileron level with the wing (in the neutral position), mark the pushrod where it crosses the holes in the servo arm. Remove the pushrod and make a 90° bend at the mark you made. Push the bent end through the middle hole of the control arm. (You may have to enlarge the hole using a 5/64” drill.) Then re-snap the clevis to the servo arm. Locate a pushrod keeper Control Keeper and snap it in position as Horn shown in the diagram. Using a set of wire cutters, cut the excess wire that extends past the keeper. Don’t trim too close a the keeper could come off in flight. To be safe, cut the pushrod about 1/4” past the keeper. When finished, your aileron linkage should look similar to this. Step 12 - Wing Assembly Grind two flats on the bottom of the retract strut as shown. These will be used to securely fasten the wheel collars in the next step.

Line up the horn as shown on the right. FW-190 ARF Manual

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large wheel collars (2)

Step 13 - Wing Assembly 3mm set screws (2) Slide on a wheel collar on to the strut, then slide on a wheel and then another wheel collar. Fasten the wheel collars to firmly to the strut by tightening the set screws on the ground flat areas. (Expert tip: Use a touch of thread-locking compound on the set-screws to keep them from loosening.) Step 14 - Wing Assembly To attach the strut cover, you will use 6 minute epoxy adhesive. Retract the gear into the wheel well and then run a thin strip of epoxy down the exposed part of the retract strut. Carefully position the strut cover as shown and tape it into position. Allow the epoxy plenty of time to set-up before removing the tape. After the epoxy is cured, extend the retract and run an additional thin strip of epoxy down each side of the strut for added strength. Step 15 - Wing Assembly Set the left (port) wing half aside and begin work on the right (starboard) wing half. Follow steps 1 through 14 to complete the right wing half. Once finished, then move on to step 16 to complete the wing assembly. Step 16 - Wing Assembly Locate the dihedral brace and test fit it into the vertical slot on each wing half. The brace should snugly slide into each wing exactly half way. After test fitting the brace, it’s time to join the two wing panels together using 30 minute epoxy. Page 

(Expert tip: Be sure to have some paper towels and rubbing alcohol handy to clean up any drips and/or fingerprints that might occur during this step.) Mix up enough 30 minute epoxy to thoroughly coat the inside of the dihedral brace pockets (in each wing half ) and the root rib of one of the two wing halves). Carefully spread a thin layer of epoxy and slide in the dihedral brace halfway into one panel. Then slide both halves together to form one complete wing. Be very careful to make sure that both panels line up perfectly. Any twist in the alignment of the panels cannot be fixed after the epoxy cures and will lead to a poor flying model. Using masking tape, hold the two panels firmly together. Set the wing aside. Remove the tape after the epoxy has fully cured. Step 17 - Wing Assembly Locate the trailing edge doubler. Note that it has a groove cut into the uncovered side. This grove aligns with the center of the wing and allows it to bend, matching the angle of the wing’s dihedral. Place the wing top-down on your work surface. Then hold the doubler into position, butting up against the trailing edge of the wing. Using a pencil, trace around the outside doubler on to the wing. Then, using a hobby knife, carefully cut away the covering from the wing, as shown in the photo. Be sure not to cut into the wood, as it will weaken the wing and could cause it to fail in flight. Mix a small amount of 6 minute epoxy and attach the double to the wing. When the epoxy has completely cured, locate the two holes where the wing-bolts are inserted. They are near the trailing edge, on the top side of the wing. Using a hobby-knife, cut away the covering from the holes. Using these holes a guide, use a 7/32” drill to drill through the trailing edge doubler. Step 18 - Wing Assembly Locate the two retract supports. Test fit them to slip in the retract bay as shown in the photo (one on each side of the retract bay). You may need to widen the opening in the supports to allow them to snugly slide over the root ribs. Using medium CA, attach one support to the front of the bay and one to the rear as shown. Be sure that the supports are

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FW-190 ARF Manual

straight and parallel to each other. When the glue holding the supports in place has cured, glue the retract mounting plate in position on top of the two supports. Use medium CA for this step as well.

as necessary to achieve this fit. Using medium C/A, glue both pegs into the wing, making sure about 3/8” of the pegs protrude from the wing’s leading edge. E/Z connectors (2) 3mm set screws (2) 2mm washers (2) “E”-clips (2)

This completes assembly of the FW-190 ARF wing.

Step 19 - Wing Assembly Locate two E/Z connectors, 2 “E-clips”, two set-screws, two 4mm washers and the included hex-wrench. 7/8” Using a wheel servo horn, drill two 5/64” holes approximately 7/8” inches apart. The holes should opposite of each other and also be equidistant from the center of the wheel. Starting with one of the holes, insert an E/Z connector through the hole from the top. Secure the connector from the bottom by snapping an “E-clip” into the notch of the E/Z connector. (Depending on the thickness of the servo wheel, you may have to use one of 2mm washers to make up the difference for a slop-free fit.) Screw the set screw into the top of the connector a few turns. Repeat these steps for the other side of the servo wheel. Step 20 - Wing Assembly Fit your low-profile retract servo into the retract mounting plate. Drill four mounting holes using a 1/16” drill bit and attach the servo using the hardware supplied with the servo. Connect the retract servo to your radio system and electronically move the servo to the retracted position. Slide the retract control wires through the E/Z connectors as shown and secure the servo arm to the retract servo. Step 21 - Wing Assembly With the retract servo in the up position, move the linkage to manually retract the landing gear. Tighten the 3mm setscrew into each of the connectors and tighten them to secure the linkage. (Expert tip: Use a touch of thread-locking compound on the set-screws to keep them from loosening.) Step 22 - Wing Assembly On the leading edge of the wing you will find two holes predrilled, just under the covering (approximately 1-5/8” from each side of the center of the wing). Cut away the covering from each hole using your hobby knife. Step 23 - Wing Assembly Locate the two 1” long wing dowels and test fit them into the holes. They should slide in snugly and securely. Sand FW-190 ARF Manual

Now it’s time to start the fuselage assembly of your FW-190 ARF.

4x40mm bolts (2) 4mm washers (2) tee-nuts (2)

Step 1 - Fuselage Assembly Before major assembly of the fuselage begins, locate two tee-nuts (sometimes referred to as blind-nuts), two 4mm washers and two 4x40mm bolts. Towards the rear of the bay is a plywood piece which runs across the width of the fuselage. In it you’ll find two pre-drilled holes. Reach inside and insert a tee-nut into the backside of the plywood piece. Using a pair of pliers, you can squeeze the tee-nut into the wood. (Expert tip: Instead of using pliers, use the wing-bolt itself and a find a spacer - roughly 3/8” long and at least a 1/2” wide. Push the spacer on the bolt and make sure that it completely covers up the shoulder of the bolt - the nonthreaded area. Now push the bolt through the hole in the plywood and thread it into the tee-nut. Hand-tighten the bolt until the spacer touches the plywood, then tighten with a hex-wrench until the tee-nut’s prongs have completely pressed into the plywood.) Using medium CA, run a thin bead around the tee-nut to guarantee it doesn’t work loose from the plywood.

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Step 2 - Fuselage Assembly On the leading edge of each elevator half you will need to cut a slit where the elevator joiner will go. Measure in 3/4” from the inside edge and drill a hole into the elevator using a 7/64” drill. Make sure this hole is straight into the leading edge and at a 90° angle to the edge. Step 3 - Fuselage Assembly Using a hobby knife or rotary tool, cut away the covering and make a groove into the leading edge of the elevator. This groove should be just deep enough to allow the elevator joiner to completely seat into the elevator. Step 4 - Fuselage Assembly Drill a 1/8” hole in the center of each hinge slot (three in the trailing edge of the stabilizer, and three in the leading edge of the elevator). Trim the holes with a hobby knife as needed to give a clean hole. Step 5 - Fuselage Assembly Locate three CA hinges. Place a T-pin in the center of the hinges then insert the hinges into the elevator half. This is the same technique you used when attaching the ailerons. Step 6 - Fuselage Assembly Repeat Steps 2 through 5 for the other elevator half. Then move on to Step 7. Step 7 - Fuselage Assembly Lightly sand the elevator joiner wire. Clean the wire using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Using a small amount of epoxy, attach the elevator joiner into one of the elevator halves. DO NOT ATTACH TO THE OTHER HALF YET! Step 8 - Fuselage Assembly Mount the wing to the fuselage, using the two 4x40 wing bolts and 4mm washers. Just hand-tighten the bolts as you’ll only need the wing on for the next step. When the wing is on, sit the FW-190 fuselage up on it’s nose. Step 9 - Fuselage Assembly At the rear of the fuselage, there are two slots pre-cut into the fuselage (one on each side). Using your hobby knife, trim the covering from each of the holes.

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B B Step 10 - Fuselage Assembly Locate the horizontal stabilizer and remove the elevator halves and the hinges. Slide the A A stabilizer into the slot you cut open in Step 9. Pay attention to make sure the top side of the stab is facing up. Center the stab in the opening by measuring the distance from the fuselage to each tip. The stab is aligned when both measurements are identical. (Expert tip: Insert the elevators in position on the stabilizer to help in centering the stabilizer. DO NOT glue the hinges yet!)

Step 11 - Fuselage Assembly After verifying the alignment of the stabilizer, use a felt-tipped pen to trace the outline of the fuselage on the stab. Remove the stab from the fuselage, then using a hobby knife, gently cutaway the covering from the center of the stabilizer - both on the top and bottom surfaces. Cut just inside each of the lines, but be careful not to cut into the wood as it will weaken the elevator and could cause it to fail in flight. (You can now remove the wing from the fuselage.) Use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to remove the lines once they are no longer needed. Step 12 - Fuselage Assembly Locate the elevator half with the joiner attached. Slide the joiner into the stabilizer slots in the fuselage. Step 13 - Fuselage Assembly Slide the stabilizer partially back into the slot. Mix about 1/2 ounce of 30 minute epoxy. Apply the epoxy to the top and bottom of the exposed wood of the stabilizer. Slide the stabilizer the rest of the way into the slot in the fuselage. Double-check the alignment to verify it’s correct. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before continuing. Step 14 - Fuselage Assembly Locate the other elevator half and attach it to the joiner, just as you did in Step 7. Step 15 - Fuselage Assembly Insert the 6 hinges into the elevator halves and push the hinges into the stabilizer. After you are satisfied with the fit, remove the T-pins and bend the elevator about 45° down. Drop 5-6 drops of fresh, thin CA into the middle

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FW-190 ARF Manual

of each hinge. Work the elevator up and down and allow the CA to work it’s way completely into the hinges. Wipe away any excess CA that may be in the hinge gap. Using the same technique, turn the fuselage over and apply 5-6 more drops of thins CA into the bottom of each elevator hinge. Set the fuselage aside and allow the CA to cure completely on it’s own. DO NOT USE A CA ACCELERATOR ON ANY OF THE HINGES. Step 16 - Fuselage Assembly On the leading edge of the rudder you will need to cut a slit where the tailwheel wire will go. Measure in 1” from the bottom edge and drill a hole into the elevator using a 5/64” drill. Make sure this hole is straight into the leading edge and at a 90° angle to the edge. Step 17 - Fuselage Assembly Drill a 1/8” hole in the center of each hinge slot (three in the trailing edge of the vertical fin, and three in the leading edge of the rudder). Trim the holes with a hobby knife as needed to give a clean hole. Step 18 - Fuselage Assembly Using a hobby knife or rotary tool, cut away the covering and make a groove into the leading edge of the rudder. This groove should be just deep enough to allow the tailwheel wire to seat flush into the elevator. Step 19 - Fuselage Assembly Locate three CA hinges. Place a T-pin in the center of the hinges then insert the hinges into the elevator half. This is the same technique you used when attaching the ailerons and elevator. Step 20 - Fuselage Assembly Locate the tailwheel, the tailwheel mount, a wheel collar and a 3mm set screw. Using the photo as a reference, slide on the wheel collar and the mount onto the tailwheel wire. Mark the wire about 1” from the top and bend it at a 90° angle.

wheel collar 3mm set screw

Step 21 - Fuselage Assembly Mix up a small amount of 30 minute epoxy and attach the tailwheel into the rudder, similar to how you glued the elevator joiner in Step 7. Step 22 - Fuselage Assembly Using the tailwheel mount as a guide, center it on the rear of the fuselage and drill two 1/16” holes through the holes in the mount. Attach the mount using two 2x10mm screws. FW-190 ARF Manual

2x10mm screws (2)

Step 23 - Fuselage Assembly Push the wheel collar until it rests against the bottom of the tailwheel mount, then tighten the set screw. (Expert tip: Use a touch of thread-locking compound on the set-screws to keep them from loosening.) 2x25mm

screws (2) Step 24 - Fuselage Assembly Locate one control horn top, back and two 2 x 25mm Phillipshead screws. Turn the fuselage over so you can work on the bottom of the elevator. Position the control horn bottom on the starboard (right) side elevator half as shown in the drawings and photo. It should be approximately 1” away from the fuselage side. The row of holes in the vertical part of the arm should line Line up the horn as shown on the right. up over the hinge gap.

Step 25 Fuselage Assembly When properly lined up, mark the two mounting holes and drill them using a 1/16” drill bit. The hole should go completely through the elevator and use care to drill the holes as straight as possible. To aid in the next step, enlarge the holes using a 5/64” drill. Step 26 - Fuselage Assembly Place the control horn top back on the bottom of the elevator, and insert the 2 mounting screws through the elevator. Secure the horn to the elevator by attaching the nylon mounting plate to the top of the elevator. 2x25mm

Step 27 - Fuselage Assembly screws (2) Locate the last control horn top, back and two 2 x 25mm Phillips-head screws. Position the fuselage so you can work on the bottom of the rudder. Position the control horn approximately 1” up from the bottom on the rudder and make sure that the horn sticks out to the port (left) side of the fuselage. Mark, drill and fasten the control horn using the same techniques as you did when installing the elevator control horn. Step 28 - Fuselage Assembly Locate the pieces to make two more plastic clevises, as you did in Step 10 of the wing assembly. Set these aside and you’ll use them during the assembly of the pushrods. Step 29 - Fuselage Assembly The elevator and rudder servos can be installed in two different places, depending on your preference. One way is internally in the wing bay. The other is in the rear of

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the fuselage just below the leading edge of the stabilizer. Neither was is necessarily better than the other, but mounting the servos internally will give you a more “scale” look. You’ll need to make this decision now it is time to mount these servos. Internal servos - described in Step 30-43. External servos - described in Step 44-52. Step 30 - Fuselage Assembly (Internal Servos) Locate the servo tray and note the shape of it. The sides will taper inward towards one of the ends. This end will face the rear of the fuselage. Place it inside the fuselage as shown, and position it so it rests on the two plywood sides. Glue into position using medium C/A. Step 31 - Fuselage Assembly (Internal Servos) Fit the Elevator and rudder servos into the servo tray. Then drill four mounting holes for each servo using a 1/16” drill bit and attach the servos using the hardware supplied with the servos. Step 32 - Fuselage Assembly (Internal Servos) Towards the rear of the fuselage, there are two, small rectangular holes (one on each side of the fuselage). These are covered with the iron-on covering which must be cutaway to expose the pushrod exit slots. Use your hobby knife to carefully remove the covering from each side. Cut Openings here

end and drill a 5/32” hole completely through the center of each end of the dowels. Using a rotary tool, make a small slot from the hole, to the end of the rod, as shown in the drawing. The slot should only be deep enough to fit one of the metal rods into. Step 35 - Fuselage Assembly (Internal pushrods) Locate the two threaded metal rods. From the threaded end, measure 6-1/4” on one of the rods and cut it using wire cutters. Measure in 9-1/4” on the other rod and cut it as well. Make a 90° bend in each rod approximately 1/4” in from where you trimmed them. Step 36 - Fuselage Assembly (Internal Servos) Locate the two metal rods. 3/4 inch Cut each of them to 3-3/4” 1/4 inch using wire cutters. Make a 90° bend in each rod approximately 1/4” in from one end. Make a 90° bend in the other end of each rod approximately 1/2”. Refer to the drawing to see how the finished rod should look. Step 37 - Fuselage Assembly (Internal Servos) Now it’s time to assemble the pushrods. We’ll start with the elevator pushrod. Locate a 19” dowel, the 6” threaded rod, one of the 3” rods you made in the last step (37) and two pieces of heat shrink tubing. Elevator Pushrod - 28” long

Take the 6” rod and insert the 1/4” bend into one of the holes drilled in the dowel. Slide one of the pieces of heat shrink tubing over the end of the dowel, holding the pushrod in place. Heat the tubing using a heat gun until it shrinks snugly around the dowel. Take the 3” rod and insert the 1/4” bend into the opposite hole in the dowel and shrink the tubing around it as well. Step 38 - Fuselage Assembly (Internal Servos) To assemble the rudder pushrod. Locate a 18” dowel, the 9” threaded rod, the other 3” rod and two pieces of heat shrink tubing. Rudder Pushrod - 30” long

Port (left) fuselage side.

Starboard (right) fuselage side.

Step 33 - Fuselage Assembly (Internal Servos) Towards the rear of the fuselage, there are two rectangular holes (one on each side of the fuselage). These are covered with the iron-on covering which must be cut-away to expose the mounting holes. Use your hobby knife to carefully remove the covering from each side. Step 34 - Fuselage Assembly (Internal Servos) Locate the long hardwood dowels and cut one dowel 19” long and the other dowel 18” long using a hand saw. Then measure in 1” from each 1 inch Page 10

Using the same techniques as you used in Step 39, assemble the rudder pushrod. Step 39 - Fuselage Assembly (Internal Servos) Now, take the fuselage and insert the elevator pushrod (28”) into the wing bay, threaded end first. Push the elevator through the fuselage until the threaded end comes through the slot in the starboard (right) side of the fuselage. Step 40 - Fuselage Assembly (Internal Servos) Take one of the clevises you made in Step 29 and thread it on to the pushrods, about half way. This will ensure that the pushrod will not slip back out of the slot.

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FW-190 ARF Manual

Step 41 - Fuselage Assembly (Internal Servos) Locate one of the pushrod keepers like you used in Step 11 of the wing Keeper assembly. Push the 90° bend Control Horn of the pushrod into the arm of the elevator servo. Attach the pushrod to the arm using one the keeper. Step 42 - Fuselage Assembly (Internal Servos) Snap the clevis of the elevator servo on to the elevator control horn. You may have to twist the clevis to finely adjust the length of the pushrod so the elevator is in the neutral position (centered). Step 43 - Fuselage Assembly (Internal Servos) Insert the rudder pushrod (threaded end first) into the wing bay until it extends through the opening in the port (left) side of the fuselage. Attach a clevis and pushrod keeper as you did with the elevator pushrod. This completes the internal servo steps. Skip to Step 55 Step 44 - Fuselage Assembly (External Servos) Towards the rear of the fuselage, there are two, servo-sized rectangular holes (one on each side of the fuselage). These are covered with the iron-on covering which must be cutaway to expose the servo mounting holes. Use your hobby knife to carefully remove the covering from each side.

Step 48 - Fuselage Assembly (External Servos) Starting with the elevator servo, measure the distance between the elevator servo horn and the elevator servo arm. (Make sure both are in the neutral position). Step 49 - Fuselage Assembly (External Servos) Mark this distance on one of the two threaded rods (measuring from the pin of the clevis) and make a 90° bend in the threaded rod. Cut the excess length of rod to only 1/2” past the 90° bend. Step 50 - Fuselage Assembly (External Servos) Locate one of the pushrod keepers like you used in Step 11 of the wing assembly. Push the 90° bend of the pushrod into the arm of the elevator servo. Attach the pushrod to the arm using one the keeper. Step 51 - Fuselage Assembly (External Servos) Snap the clevis of the elevator servo on to the elevator control horn. You may have to twist the clevis to finely adjust the length of the pushrod so the elevator is in the neutral position (centered). Step 52 - Fuselage Assembly (External Servos) Repeat steps 46-51 to cut and attach the rudder servo. This completes the external servo steps.

Port (left) fuselage side.

Step 53 - Fuselage Assembly On the firewall of the fuselage, you’ll notice two lines which are draw - one vertical and one horizontal. Place the aluminum motor mount on the firewall. Align the mount so the holes in the mounting ears are centered on the lines on the firewall. Mark these 4 holes and drill through the firewall using a 13/64” drill.

Step 46 - Fuselage Assembly (External Servos) Fit the Elevator and rudder servos into the holes you have just uncovered (one per side). Then drill four mounting holes for each servo using a 1/16” drill bit and attach the servos using the hardware supplied with the servos.

Step 54 - Fuselage Assembly Next you’ll need to mark and drill four 1” holes in the firewall to aid in the battery cooling. Although positioning isn’t critical, mark and cut these hole similar to what we’ve illustrated in this diagram.

Cut Openings here

Starboard (right) fuselage side. Step 45 - Fuselage Assembly (External Servos) Plug in a 12” servo extension into both the rudder and elevator servos before you move on to the next step. Refer to Step 3 of the wing assembly.

Step 47 - Fuselage Assembly (External Servos) Locate two threaded pushrods and thread one of the clevises that you made in Step 29 on to each of the rods.

FW-190 ARF Manual

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Step 55 - Fuselage Assembly Locate the aluminum motor mount and your electric motor. Attach the motor to the mount using the included mounting screws.

Step 61 - Fuselage Assembly Locate the four hardwood blocks. These will be used to mount the cowl to the fuselage. They need to be attached to the firewall, but need to be shaped a bit before you install them. Using your hobby knife, sandpaper or a file, shape the outside edge of each piece to match the curve of the firewall.

4x40mm bolts (2) 4mm washers (2) tee-nuts (2)

Step 56 - Fuselage Assembly Locate two tee-nuts (sometimes referred to as blind-nuts), two 4mm washers and two 4x40mm bolts. Reach inside the fuselage and insert a tee-nut into the backside of the firewall. Thread in a 4x40mm bolt from the front of the firewall and tighten it to pull the teeth of the teenut into the back of the firewall. Do this for the other three tee-nuts. Step 57 - Fuselage Assembly Attach the mount/motor assembly to the firewall using the 4 4x40mm screws and washers. Tighten securely. (Expert tip: Use a few drops of thread-locking compound on these bolts to ensure they will not work loose.) Step 58 - Fuselage Assembly Set the fuselage aside and locate the molded radial engine. Cut away the area between the cylinders as shown here using a hobby knife. Also cut away the center part of the engine so the motor can protrude through it. Using hobby paint you can detail the engine to make it as realistic looking as you’d like. Step 59 - Fuselage Assembly Locate the cowl wash it thoroughly using mild dish washing liquid and warm water. Step 60 - Fuselage Assembly Test fit the radial engine into the through the back side of the cowl. It should rest towards the front of the cowl opening and it needs to be perfectly centered. Once you are satisfied with the fit, remove the radial engine and apply a thin layer of clear silicone around the edge of the radial engine. Place the engine back into the cowl and position it centered, as before. Set this aside to fully cure.

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Step 62 - Fuselage Assembly Position the blocks as shown here and glue them to the firewall using 6 minute epoxy. (Expert tip: Roughen up the firewall areas where the blocks will attach with a file or sandpaper. This will allow the epoxy to grab better to the firewall.) Step 63 - Fuselage Assembly Cut four pieces of card stock approximately 5” long, by about 1/2” wide. Tape one of these pieces as shown here using masking tape and mark the center of the mounting block on to the card stock. Repeat this for the other three blocks. Step 64 - Fuselage Assembly Slide the cowl onto the fuselage and position it so the drive washer of the motor extends about 1/8”-1/4” in front of the radial engine. Tape the cowl into position. Now use the card stock pieces a guide, drill a 1/16” hole through the center mark. Be sure to drill completely through the cowl and the mounting block. Remove the cowl and the card stock pieces after you are finished drilling. 2x10mm screws (4)

Step 65 - Fuselage Assembly Locate four 2x10mm screws. Thread each of these into the holes you just drilled in the mounting blocks. Remove the screws and add two drops of thin CA to each of the holes.

Step 66 - Fuselage Assembly Next, it is time to mount your ESC (electronic speed control). Mount it on the front of the firewall, below the motor/ mount assembly. We fastened our speed control to the firewall using a tie wrap and cushioned www.hmperformance.com

FW-190 ARF Manual

it with a small piece of foam. This required drilling two 1/8” holes in the firewall for the tie wrap to pass through. Step 67 - Fuselage Assembly If you have chosen the battery pack(s) for your FW-190, now it is the time to install the “keepers” to hold the battery(s) in place. Using scrap balsa, we made two standoffs (approximately 2-1/2” tall. On the end of each standoff we attached one of the unused servo arms that came with our radio system. Between these servos arms, we made a small “pushrod” with a z-bend in one end and a clevis on the other. The clevis can then be easily removed and installed a needed to have access to the battery(s). Step 68 - Fuselage Assembly Now it is time to wire your electrical system. For our prototype FW-190, we used a Horizon E-Flite 60 motor, a JETI Advance PLUS 77 Brushless Motor and two Thunderpower 3S2P LiPo batteries. This system has more than enough power and we would recommend it for your FW-190. This system required that the two batteries be wired together in series and we also installed an external arming plug. With the wide variety of motors, batteries and ESC’s on the market, there is no one right way to do this, however, here is a diagram of how our setup is wired. We must strongly caution you at this step. If you are not + _

Deans Plug

Firewall

3s2p LiPo battery

to motor

_

ESC

3s2p LiPo battery + _

+

Deans Plug

Arming plug

(accessible from outside the fuselage)

comfortable with soldering and wiring, please seek out the help of an experienced modeler. If you short circuit this system the power released can quickly heat the batteries until the point that they will catch fire, and could cause serious personal and property damage. Also, we strongly recommend that you include the external FW-190 ARF Manual

arming plug in your power system. This will allow to assemble your FW-190 with the batteries plugged-in and have no danger of the motor turning on unexpectedly. We used the same Deans connectors that we used throughout the power system and hid the plug under the back edge of the cowl. This way, not only is it hidden, but you when you are ready fly, you can stand over the model (straddling the fuselage) and arm the power from behind the prop. SAFETY FIRST! Step 69 - Fuselage Assembly Now mark and drill some cooling holes on the bottom of the fuselage, about 2” aft of the wing saddle. We made two rows of 1/2” holes, three per side. This gave plenty of cooling, even in test flights on 85°+ days with high-humidity. These holes can easily be cut with a hobby knife. Step 70 - Fuselage Assembly Finish the installation of your radio gear by adding the receiver, flight pack battery and the switch. We positioned the receiver between the elevator and rudder servos. The antenna was run out the bottom of the fuselage, exiting through one of the cooling holes and taped to the rear of the fuselage by the tailwheel. The flight pack battery is installed under the LiPo battery compartment, and the switch was installed on the side of the fuselage for easy access. Also be sure to include the extensions for the retract and aileron servos. These can be short 6” or 12” extensions. Step 71 - Fuselage Assembly If you’d like to include a pilot figure in your model, now is the time to glue him into position. For added realism you can also glue in the seat back (included) with a few drops of medium CA glue or clear silicone. (Expert tip: If you do decide to use CA glue for this step, make sure that the CA has cured COMPLETELY before moving on to the next step. CA glue has the ability to fog

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and bring out fingerprints in clear plastics - like the FW190’s canopy. Take the extra time to make sure the glue is absolutely cure - maybe even setting the fuselage aside to cure for several minutes.) One other note on the pilot. If you plan on using this model in any sort of fun-scale competition, you MUST have a pilot installed as part of your static score. Step 72 - Fuselage Assembly Locate the canopy and trim the extra plastic until you have the canopy shape as shown here. Test fit the canopy to the cockpit area and trim as needed to have a nice fit. Remember to trim a bit at a time. You can always remove material, but you can’t put it back! Step 73 - Fuselage Assembly Once satisfied with the fit of the canopy, glue it into position using either canopy glue or clear silicone glue. Use a few pieces of masking tape to hold it securely until the glue has cured completely. This completes the assembly of the FW-190. Now you’ll need to adjust the control throws and check for balance.

Recommended C.G. setting: An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is properly balancing the model. This is especially important because of the various motor/battery combinations that can be used.

CAUTION! DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP! The recommended Center of Gravity (CG) location for the FW-190 is 3-1/4” behind the leading edge of the wing against the fuselage. Make sure the gear is retracted when checking the CG, as the CG will change depending on the gear position. If necessary, move the flight pack battery or add weight to either the nose or the tail until the correct balance is achieved. Stick-on weights are available at your local hobby store and work well for this purpose.

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Recommended Control Throws: The amount of control throw should be adjusted as closely as possible using mechanical means, rather than making large changes electronically at the radio. By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn toward the outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of control throw of the control surface. Moving it toward the control surface will increase the amount of throw. Moving the pushrod wire at the servo arm will have the opposite effect: Moving it closer to center will decrease throw, and away from center will increase throw. Work with a combination of the two to achieve the closest or exact control throws listed. Aileron 9/16” up & 9/16” down Note: Aileron throw is measured at the inboard trailing edge of the aileron. Elevator 1/2” up & 1/2” down Note: Elevator throw is measured at the inboard trailing edge of the elevator. Rudder 1” right & 1” left Note: Rudder throw is measured at the bottom of the rudder. (Expert tip: Once the control throws have been set, cut a few pieces of medium silicone fuel tubing (or heat shrink tubing) to go around each of the clevises. This will keep them from opening during flight.) Preflight: Charge both the transmitter and receiver pack for your airplane. Use the recommended charger supplied with your particular radio system, following the instructions provided with the radio. In most cases, the radio should be charged the night before going out flying. Check the radio installation and make sure all the control surfaces are moving correctly (i.e. the correct direction and with the recommended throws). Test run the engine and make sure it transitions smoothly from idle to full throttle and back. Also ensure the engine is tuned according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and it will run consistently and constantly at full throttle when adjusted. Check all the control horns, servo horns and clevises to make sure they are secure and in good condition. Replace any items that would be considered questionable. Failure of any of these components in flight would mean the loss of your aircraft. Range check your radio before flying Before each flying session, range check your radio. This is accomplished by turning on your transmitter with the antenna collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane, but do not attach the arming switch. With your airplane on the ground, you should be able to walk 30 paces away from your airplane and still have complete control of all functions. If not, don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment checked out by the manufacturer.

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FW-190 ARF Manual

Academy of Model Aeronautics National Model Aircraft Safety Code Effective January 1, 2007 GENERAL 1. A model aircraft shall be defined as a non-human-carrying device capable of sustained flight in the atmosphere. It shall not exceed limitations established in this code and is intended to be used exclusively for recreational or competition activity. 2. The maximum takeoff weight of a model aircraft, including fuel, is 55 pounds, except for those flown under the AMA Experimental Aircraft Rules. 3. I will abide by this Safety Code and all rules established for the flying site I use. I will not willfully fly my model aircraft in a reckless and/or dangerous manner. 4. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows, or model demonstrations until it has been proven airworthy. 5. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately 400 feet above ground level, when within three (3) miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator. I will yield the right-of-way and avoid flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft, utilizing a spotter when appropriate. 6. I will not fly my model aircraft unless it is identified with my name and address, or AMA number, inside or affixed to the outside of the model aircraft. This does not apply to model aircraft flown indoors. 7. I will not operate model aircraft with metal-blade propellers or with gaseous boosts (other than air), nor will I operate model aircraft with fuels containing tetranitromethane or hydrazine. 8. I will not operate model aircraft carrying pyrotechnic devices which explode or burn, or any device, which propels a projectile of any kind. Exceptions include Free Flight fuses or devices that burn producing smoke and are securely attached to the model aircraft during flight. Rocket motors up to a G-series size may be used, provided they remain firmly attached to the model aircraft during flight. Model rockets may be flown in accordance with the National Model Rocketry Safety Code; however, they may not be launched from model aircraft. Officially designated AMA Air Show Teams (AST) are authorized to use devices and practices as defined within the Air Show Advisory Committee Document. 9. I will not operate my model aircraft while under the influence of alcohol or within eight (8) hours of having consumed alcohol. 10. I will not operate my model aircraft while using any drug which could adversely affect my ability to safely control my model aircraft. 11. Children under six (6) years old are only allowed on a flightline or in a flight area as a pilot or while under flight instruction. 12. When and where required by rule, helmets must be properly worn and fastened. They must be OSHA, DOT, ANSI, SNELL or NOCSAE approved or comply with comparable standards. FW-190 ARF Manual

RADIO CONTROL 1. All model flying shall be conducted in a manner to avoid over flight of unprotected people. 2. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground-range check before the first flight of a new or repaired model aircraft. 3. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until I become a proficient flier, unless I am assisted by an experienced pilot. 4. At all flying sites a safety line or lines must be established, in front of which all flying takes place. Only personnel associated with flying the model aircraft are allowed at or in front of the safety line. In the case of airshows or demonstrations a straight safety line must be established. An area away from the safety line must be maintained for spectators. Intentional flying behind the safety line is prohibited. 5. I will operate my model aircraft using only radiocontrol frequencies currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission (FCC). Only individuals properly licensed by the FCC are authorized to operate equipment on Amateur Band frequencies. 6. I will not knowingly operate my model aircraft within three (3) miles of any preexisting flying site without a frequencymanagement agreement. A frequency-management agreement may be an allocation of frequencies for each site, a day-use agreement between sites, or testing which determines that no interference exists. A frequencymanagement agreement may exist between two or more AMA chartered clubs, AMA clubs and individual AMA members, or individual AMA members. Frequencymanagement agreements, including an interference test report if the agreement indicates no interference exists, will be signed by all parties and copies provided to AMA Headquarters. 7. With the exception of events flown under official AMA rules, excluding takeoff and landing, no powered model may be flown outdoors closer than 25 feet to any individual, except for the pilot and the pilot’s helper(s) located at the flightline. 8. Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch a model aircraft in flight while it is still under power, except to divert it from striking an individual. 9. Radio-controlled night flying is limited to low-performance model aircraft (less than 100 mph). The model aircraft must be equipped with a lighting system which clearly defines the aircraft’s attitude and direction at all times. 10. The operator of a radio-controlled model aircraft shall control it during the entire flight, maintaining visual contact without enhancement other than by corrective lenses that are prescribed for the pilot. No model aircraft shall be equipped with devices which allow it to be flown to a selected location which is beyond the visual range of the pilot.

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Emergency Safety Alert: Lithium Battery Fires (12/16/05) Lithium batteries have become extremely popular for powering control and power systems in models because of their high energy density (capacity/weight ratio) compared to Ni-Cds or other batteries. With high energy comes increased risk in their use. The principal risk is fire, which can result from improper charging, crash damage, or shorting the batteries. All Lithium-battery vendors warn customers of this danger and recommend extreme caution in their use. However, many fires have resulted from the misuse of Li-Poly batteries, leading to the loss of models and automobiles. Other property, such as homes, garages, and workshops, have also burned.

7. Do not attempt to make your own battery packs from individual cells. Use only professionally packaged and labeled units which contain safer charging features. Lithium batteries cannot be handled and charged casually, as has been the practice for years with other types of batteries. The consequences can be serious, resulting in major property damage and/or personal harm. —AMA Safety Committee

A Lithium-battery fire burns explosively at several thousand degrees and is an excellent initiator for ancillary fires. Fire is caused by contact between Lithium and oxygen in the air. It needs no other source of ignition, or fuel, to start. The following is recommended for Lithium batteries to preclude ancillary fires. 1. Store and charge in a fireproof container—never in your model. 2. Charge in a protected area that is devoid of combustibles. 3. In the event of damage from crashes, etc., carefully move the battery pack to a safe place for at least a half hour to observe. Physically damaged cells can erupt into flames. After sufficient time to ensure safety, the cells should be discarded in accordance with the instructions that come with the batteries. Never attempt to charge a cell with physical damage, regardless of how slight. 4. Always use chargers designed for the specific purpose; it’s preferable to have a fixed setting for your particular pack. Many fires occur while using selectable/adjustable chargers that are set improperly. Never attempt to charge Lithium cells with a charger that is not specifically designed for Lithium cells! Never use chargers that are specifically designed for Ni-Cd batteries.

Warranty Information H&M Performance guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any parts damage by use or modification. In no case shall H&M Performance’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, H&M Performance reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that H&M Performance has no control over the final assembly or material used for the final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the product, the user accepts all resulting liability. Limit of Liability In the use of this product, our only obligation shall be to replace such quantity of the product proven to be defective. The user shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition.

5. Use charging systems that monitor, control, and balance the charge state of each cell in the pack. Unbalanced cells can lead to disaster if the system permits a single cell in the pack to be overcharged. This means that the charging system must provide charge cessation as each cell reaches the proper voltage. If the batteries show any sign of swelling, discontinue charging and move them to a safe place—outside. They could erupt into flames.

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6. Never plug in a battery and leave it to charge unattended; serious fires have resulted from this practice. Page 16

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FW-190 ARF Manual