In Many Wars, by Many War Correspondents

In Many "Wars, oy Many "War Corresponaents

From Ou r Ow n Corresponden t JOHN MAXWEL L HAMILTON , Serie s Editor Illuminating the development of foreign new s gathering at a time when it has never been more important, "From Ou r Ow n Correspondent " is a series of books that feature s forgotten work s an d unpublishe d memoirs by pioneering foreign correspondents. Series editor John Maxwel l Hamilton , onc e a foreign correspondent himself, is the founding dean of the Manship Schoo l of Mass Communication at Louisiana State University and is the executiv e vice chancellor and provost of LSU. PREVIOUS BOOK S I N TH E SERIES !

Evelyn Waugh, Waugh i n Abyssinia Edward Pric e Bell, Journalism of the Highest Realm: Th e Memoir of Edward Price Bell, Pioneering Foreign Correspondent for th e Chicago Daily News, edite d byjaci Col e an d John Maxwell Hamilto n William Howard Russel l and Others , Th e Crimean War: As Seen by Those Wh o Reported It, edite d by Angela Michell i Flemin g an d John Maxwell Hamilto n Seymour Topping, O n the Front Lines of the Cold War: An American Correspondent's Journal from the Chinese Civil War to the Cuban Missile Crisis and Vietnam

IN HAN Y WAR5, by

MANY WA R CORRESPONDENT S Edited by GEORGE LYNC H and FREDERICK PALMER

Updated Edition With a Foreword by JOHN MAXWEL L HAMILTO N

L O U I S I A N A STAT E U N I V E R S I T Y P R E S S BATON ROUG E

PUBLISHED WIT H TH E ASSISTANC E O F

the V . Ray Cardozier Fun d DeeDee and Kevi n P. Reilly, Sr.

Published b y Louisiana State University Press Originally published as In Many Wars, b y Many War-Correspondents, b y th e Tokyo Printin g Co. , 190 4 Appendix i and Appendix 2 copyright © 2010 by Louisiana State University Press Foreword copyrigh t © 2010 by John Maxwell Hamilto n Louisiana Paperback Edition, 201 0 All rights reserved Manufactured i n the Unite d State s of America First printin g Designer: Laur a Roubique Gleason Typeface: Adobe Caslo n Pr o Printer an d binder: Thomson-Shore, Inc. L I B R A R Y O F C O N G R E S S C A T A L O G I N G - I N - P U B L I C A T I O N DAT A

In man y wars, by many war correspondents / edite d b y George Lync h an d Frederick Palme r ; with a foreword by John Maxwell Hamilton . — Updated ed . p. cm. — (Fro m ou r own correspondent) Originally published: Tokyo : Tokyo Printin g Co. , 1904 . ISBN 978-0-8071-3709- 3 i. Russo-Japanes e War, 1904-1905—Pres s coverage . 2 . Russo-Japanese War, 1904-1905—Jour nalists. 3 . War correspondents . I . Lynch, George , 1868-1928 . II . Palmer , Frederick, 1873-1958 . III. Hamilton , John Maxwell . 08517.155 2011 355.o2O9'o4i—dc22 2010020281 The paper in this book meets the guideline s for permanence and durability of the Committe e on Production Guideline s fo r Book Longevity o f the Counci l o n Library Resources. ©

CONTENTS Page.

" ANaval Engagement, " b y E. Ashmead Bartlet t I " President McKinley' s Assassination/' and "From Our Special at the Front/* by Richar d Barry , Eastern Illustrate d Wa r New s 5 " Under th e Fir e o f a n Internationa l Fleet/ ' b y Joh n F . Bass , Chicago Daily News 1 " A Nigh t at Death's Door/ ' b y Will H . Brill , Reuter' s Telegra m Company 1 " A Battl e with the Waves/' b y A. F. Cahusac , London Chronicle. . 2 " Michaels , o f Michaelma s Bay, " by Franklin Clarkin , Ne w Yor k Evening Post 2 " Fiftee n Hour s Unde r Fire/ ' b y Wil l Levingto n Comfort , Chicago Evenin g Post , Pittsburg h Dispatch , Detroi t Journal . 3 " M y Mos t Strenuou s Campaign, " b y Rober t Moor e Collins , Reuter's Telegra m Compan y 3 " In Modoc," b y Paul Cowles , Associated Pres s " 3 " How Stephe n Cran e too k Juan a Dias, " b y Richar d Hardin g Davis, Collier' s Weekly 4 " He That Died o ' Wednesday," b y Oscar Davis , N . Y. Herald .. . 4 " On e Day's Wor k i n Cuba," by William Dinwiddie, N. Y. World . . 4 " A Startlin g Surprise, " b y M . H . Donohoe , Londo n Dail y Chronicle 5 " The Penalt y of War Corresponding, " b y W. H. Donald, Sydney Morning Telegraph 5 " February 8th, " b y Robert L . Dunn, Collier's Weekl y 6 " The Cowboy and the Rattlesnake, " b y Martin Egan , Associate d Press 6

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" How South American s Fight," b y Edwin Emerson, N. Y. World. 7 " The Hat and the Ha'penny," b y John Fox , Scribner' s Magazine . 7 " A Nigh t Attac k o n Boshof, " b y Reginal d Glossop , Yorkshir e Post 8 " Wit h Colone l Yankoff : A Balka n Episode, " b y A . G . Hales , London Dail y News 8 " A Mang o and a Rumor," b y James H . Hare, Collier' s Weekly... 9 " The Break-up," b y D. H. James 9 " A Trip to New York as a Steward," b y Oliver S. Kendall, London Daily Telegrap h 9 " A Veldt Vendetta, " b y Georg e H . Kingswell , Londo n Dail y Express 10 " Treasur e Trove," b y Walter Kirton , Central News 10 " Ho w I Wa s Nearl y Beheade d " an d " .o " b y E. F . Knight , London Mornin g Post 10 " Savin g a Column, " b y Lancelo t F . Lawton , Londo n Dail y Chronicle 11 "Waiting," b y Sir Bryan Leighton 11 " R . T. P. s," b y Richard H . Little, Chicago Daily News 11 " A Camer a and a Journey," b y Jack London, New York American. 12 " Nippo n Banzai," b y George Lynch , Londo n Daily Chronicl e .. . 13 " An Unpleasan t Choice, " b y R . J . MacHugh , Londo n Dail y Telegraph 13 " An Attempt Tha t Failed, " b y W. Maxwell, London Standard... 14 " War' s Mercie s and War's Satires, " b y Frederick Palmer, Collier's Weekly 14 " Th e Wa r an d the Walker," b y Percival Phillips , Londo n Dail y Express 14 " Adrif t o n an Ice-Pack," b y F. Lione l Pratt 15 " An Adventur e i n Bulgaria, " b y Melto n Prior , Illustrated Londo n News 15 " Takin g I t Lyin g Down, " b y Guy H. Scull, New York Glob e .. . 16 " Without Orders, " b y Arther Smallwood , Londo n Daily Express ... 16

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3 7 1 5 7 1 5 7 3 7 9 3 1 5 1 5 9 5 9 3 7

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" A Message fro m Andree, " b y Gordon Smith, Londo n Morning Post 17 " The Canadian s a t Paardeberg, " b y Richmond Smith , Londo n

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Standard 17 " A Fij i Incident, " b y Sydney Smith, London Daily Mai l 18 " The Devotion s o f a n Emperor, " b y W . S . Straight , Reuter' s Telegram Compan y 18 " Impressio n Penible," b y C. Victor Thomas, Le Gauloi s 19 " Ho w ISelected a Campaign Outfit," b y Sam B. Trissel, Associated Press 19 "Sognando," b y Alberto Troise, L a Tribuna 19 "' Saved b y a Deser t Quail, " b y Gran t Wallace , Sa n Francisc o Evening Bulleti n 20 " A Boxer Charge, " b y Fred Whiting, London Daily Graphic .. . 20 " Four Stone Ten/1 b y Sheldon Williams , London Sphere 20

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Appendix i . "Painfu l Impression" : Translatio n o f C . Victo r Thomas' s "Impression Penible" by Carey Cupit 21

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Appendix 2 . "Dreaming!": Translation o f Alberto Troise's "Sognando! " by Dennis G. Martinez 21

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Some of the Authors

FOREWORD "There are few people in the world who have more opportunity for getting close to th e ho t interestin g thing s o f one's tim e tha n th e specia l correspondent o f a great paper, " George Lynch , a veteran Britis h correspondent , wrote i n Impressions of a Wa r Correspondent, publishe d i n 1 9 03.' War reporting. It sounded so romantic. A laissez-passermto the front lines of news! And fo r a time it had been, just as Lynch said . Home from th e field of battle, th e corresponden t was a celebrity, his experiences worth a quick book for the armchair adventurer. But the London Daily Chronicles special correspondent was to learn the year after hi s memoir appeared that the war correspondent's life was fast becoming on e of hard-to-get press passes and shor t leashes. Early i n 1904 , Lync h an d a distinguishe d thron g o f foreig n correspon dents with high hopes of a good stor y assembled in Tokyo t o cover the Russo Japanese War, onl y to discove r that the authoritie s wer e determine d no t t o let them "clos e to the hot interesting things." Corralle d i n the Imperial Hotel, the journalists had nothin g muc h t o d o except tell stories in the ba r an d scroung e for somethin g t o write about . The y called themselve s "Cherr y Blosso m Corre spondents."2 In an effort that combined socializing and make-do writing, Lync h and Frederic k Palme r o f Collier's propose d tha t the y an d a fe w o f thei r col leagues join in writing shor t autobiographic essays about some exciting event in their careers. The result is this "curiosit y of literature," a s Palmer calle d i t in a letter t o his American publisher. 3 It i s not th e onl y instanc e of correspondents writin g reminiscences fo r a joint volume : other s hav e bee n assembled . A n especiall y large numbe r wer e publishe d durin g Worl d Wa r II . Bu t thi s on e is differen t because of the circumstance s under which i t was not only written bu t als o produced. The book was printed in Tokyo i n 1904 in a limited number ; it was never The author thanks Lindsay Newport for her research assistance.

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published for a mass audience in Britain or the Unite d States , although Palme r hoped i t would be . As a result, the boo k di d no t fin d a place on many shelves, which i s a pity. It serve s up valuable stories not foun d elsewher e an d stand s as a signpost on the roa d to increasingly sophisticated government suppressio n of information i n tim e o f war. Memoirs writte n afte r thi s wa r woul d b e heavil y laced with regrets about what correspondent s could not do or see.

The Russo-Japanese War ha d a long fuse. It was lighted b y Great Power expan sion in the Far East . For th e Japanese , i t bega n whe n U.S . Commodor e Matthe w C . Perr y forced ope n thei r port s i n 1854 , ending the islan d nation's isolation. The Japanese were humiliated. The political upheaval that followed brought fort h a new generation o f Japanese leaders who conclude d that they coul d no t recove r self respect by restoring the past. Unable to expel the barbarians, they would emu late them. Japan successfully challenge d China' s suzeraint y over Korea in 1894 and invade d Manchuria. I n th e resultin g Treat y o f Shimonoseki , i t acquired Taiwan, th e Pescadores, and the Kwantung Peninsula in South Manchuria. Although Wester n power s quickly forced the m t o relinquish their claim s on th e peninsula, the Japanese were undeterred. A subsequent commercial treaty gave them th e sam e rights in China a s the Western power s enjoyed. The Russians led the diplomati c effort t o force Japan to give up the Kwantung Peninsula . That, however , wa s not th e firs t sig n o f the comin g clash . I n 1860 they create d the por t cit y of Vladivostok as a military outpost. It s tellin g name meant "Rule the East. " Russia n intentions were also apparent in its railroad building: first the Trans-Siberian Railway , which would mak e it easier to support their Asia n frontier; next the Chines e Easter n Railway , which passed through covete d Manchuria. Three years after forcin g Japan to give up Kwantung, th e Russian s claimed the much-dispute d regio n for themselves and built the Sout h Manchurian Railway , which would connec t its rail lines to the Chi nese ports of Port Arthur an d Dairen . In response to an Anglo-Japanese Treaty an d other diplomati c maneuvering agains t it, Russi a agreed t o a phased withdrawal o f forces fro m Manchu -

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ria—and then stalled . Adding t o Japanese concerns, it sought permission from the Korean s to buil d a rail line throug h thei r country . Recognizin g tha t th e Russians were buying time i n orde r to complet e al l the wor k on their rai l system, the Japanese launched a surprise attack on the Russia n Pacific Squadron at Port Arthur o n February 8, 1904. The war was on. Incomplete rai l facultie s and poo r militar y leadershi p le d t o a strin g o f Russian defeats. The Russians lost Port Arthur i n January 1905. Japan defeated them in the Battle of Mukden shortl y thereafter. In May the Japanese destroyed the Russia n Baltic Fleet i n a spectacular victory in th e Tsushim a Straits . The czar, bese t b y domesti c revolutionar y threats , sue d fo r peace . Th e Treat y o f Portsmouth gav e Japan th e Kwantun g Peninsula an d th e Sout h Manchuria n Railroad, and recognized its "paramount interest" in Korea. Not long afterward Japan established a protectorate there . For the first time in modern history, an Asian nation defeated a European one. The Russo-Japanese War brought other firsts that changed the geopolitical equation. As with most wars, there were advances in the art of killing—the first use of machine guns, trench warfare, torpedoes, an d cruiser deployment. Als o there wer e first s i n foreig n reporting. B y some estimates, th e Russo-Japanes e War was the most expensive to cover up to that time. This was due in part to improved—and costly—communications. 4 But the most notable journalistic landmark of all was not a n advance but a retreat. If an y conflict marke d the en d of the Golde n Ag e of war reporting celebrated by George Lynch , this was it.

By most accounts , the daw n o f this Golde n Ag e was the Crimea n War , fift y years before the Russo-Japanese War. The press in Great Britain and the Unite d States, a s well a s other countries , was emergin g a s a powerful political force . More an d mor e commercial enterprises that serve d readers rather tha n politi cal parties, newspapers sought t o provide reliable news. Reporters became in dependent observers with large and growing audiences . This shif t caugh t Brit ish authoritie s of f guard durin g th e Crimea n War . Th e militar y didn' t quit e know what to do with William Howard Russel l of the Times and his colleagues. While th e correspondent s suffere d discomfor t because of a lack o f logistica l

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support from th e military , they enjoyed a high degree of freedom. Their report ing, which helpe d bring down the Aberdeen government , highlighted the Brit ish command's failures o n the field and miserable treatment o f its troops. Over tim e government s an d their militarie s determined tha t they had to discipline th e pres s just a s muc h a s they di d thei r soldiers . I n a n articl e fo r Scribner'Sy Thoma s Millard, a n American midwesterne r with a strong aversion to imperialism , criticized Britis h censorshi p during th e Boe r War. Th e enemy that "Englan d wishe d t o keep i n ignorance," he said , "was civilization." 5 Lor d Kitchener deporte d Millard . The abilit y t o sen d new s quickl y by telegraph— which soo n becam e a n imperativ e i n th e rac e t o ge t readers—als o becam e a journalistic weakness because the militar y ofte n controlle d thos e communica tions links. Furthermore, man y correspondents disliked filing bare-bones telegraphic reports, which were necessary in order to move news quickly and to hold down transmission costs. No more were correspondents "your coiner of striking phrases," lamented th e grea t Britis h corresponden t Archibald Forbe s i n 1892. 6 Melton Prior, one of the seasoned war reporters who congregated in Japan, commented in 1897 that correspondents "take no small part in the march of civilization, an d it would b e a grave pity to my mind, were the event s on the bat tlefield an d in the cam p left t o the Genera l o r headquarter staf f to sen d home , as the y undoubtedly woul d b e writte n t o sui t thei r ow n view s an d wishe s o r those o f the Government. " Prior' s solution , however , boile d dow n t o the sam e old problem he sought to avoid. He proposed leaving it up to the commander to inform a correspondent "what h e is doing o r intends to do , placing him o n his honour no t to telegraph th e informatio n till a certain time, instea d of the Cor respondent having to go about to so-called 'back-doors,' and consequently ofte n obtaining a garbled accoun t an d forwardin g home fals e news." 7 There wa s n o bright future i n expecting generals to provide correspondents with news abou t defeats a s well a s victories. Devising scheme s to control correspondent s nevertheless was still a work in progress in 1904. Control wa s uneven and often a s crude as William Tecumseh Sherman's court-martialing o f a reporter who had the temerity to write that the general would hav e won the Civi l War Battl e o f Vicksburg if he had "acte d as earnestly and persistently against the enemy as against the press." 8 The verdict

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by Sherman's military court was a frank suppression of free speech : the reporte r was banished from th e "line s of the Army. " In the progression of finding better ways to tame correspondents, the Japanese showed they could defeat not only a European military force but also, with gracious smiles and intransigence, a large force of the West's best war reporters. Wrote Willard Straight , representin g Reuter's an d the Associated Press : The air of the Imperial Hotel was a bright blu e from earl y morn to golde n sunset. Famou s correspondents , veteran s o f countles s campaigns , wer e held up, bound han d an d foot by the dapper little Orientals. . . . The situ ation was unique in the annal s of journalism. A government holdin g th e rabid pressmen at a distance, censorin g their simples t stories , yet pattin g them o n th e back , dinin g them , winin g them , givin g the m picnic s and luncheons and theatrical performances and trying in everyway not only to soften thei r bond s and to make their sta y a pleasant one, but siren-lik e t o deaden their sens e of duty and their desir e to get into the field.9

Realizing tha t war was in the offing , man y newspapers sent correspondents to Tokyo befor e the Japanese attack on Port Arthur i n February. As a sign of what was to come , i t was not on e of these journalists who broke th e news . The first news came from a n Associated Pres s reporter a t Chefoo o n the Chines e coast . He base d his dispatc h o n reports fro m passenger s on a steamship that had ar rived from th e battle scene . The Japanese had turned th e Imperial Hotel into a well-provisioned prison . Over th e nex t week s mor e correspondent s arrive d t o tak e room s i n th e "Imperial Tomb, " a s they calle d th e hotel. 10 Fifty o r so bedded dow n ther e i n early March. Estimate s o f the total numbe r who covered the war from on e vantage poin t o r anothe r rang e a s high a s two hundred. 11 Most were Britis h an d American, but German, French , an d Italian journalists came as well. Although foreign reportin g wa s considere d a man's business in thos e days , a t leas t on e woman was among them, Ann e Vaughan-Lewes, wife of a British naval officer . She reported o n the Japanese side for the Times of London .

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Among th e lodger s a t th e Imperia l Hotel , sai d Frederic k Palmer , wer e "more famous correspondents than were ever brought together under one roof."12 Richard Hardin g Davis , square-jawed , handsome, an d resplendent in his cus tom-made outfits , was the iconic foreign correspondent of his age. Jack London , sent b y Hearst , wa s enjoyin g accolades for hi s just-published Call of the Wild, destined to become a classic. Others, not so well remembered today, were marquee names at the tim e o r destined t o be. Palmer an d American-born Perciva l Phillips wit h th e Britis h Dally Express wer e risin g t o th e to p i n thei r profes sion. Scotsma n Benne t Burleig h o f the Daily Telegraph wa s alread y legendary for hi s audacity and resourcefulness. An America n Suprem e Court justice who had been involve d in Burleigh's imprisonment during the Civi l War (Burleig h fought o n th e Confederat e side ) professed to b e followin g event s i n Asi a fo r news o f some "wild adventure " fro m th e correspondent. 13 Another bol d Daily Telegraph correspondent , Elli s Ashmead-Bartlett , ha d been imprisone d by th e Greeks i n the Greco-Turkis h Wa r o f 1897. Luigi Barzini was there fo r Corriere della Sera; Edward F . Knight, wh o lost hi s ar m coverin g the Boe r War, fo r th e London Daily Post; and Thomas Millard, whom Kitchene r had expelled and was destined t o be one of the mor e famous Chin a Hands , fo r the Ne w York Herald. Another wh o would becom e a fixture i n China was W. H . Donald , a n Austra lian reporting for several papers in his country as well as the China Mail, wher e he was an editor. H e wen t o n to become a n advisor for Sun Yat-sen, whom h e helped write the proclamatio n for a new government in 1911, and other Chines e leaders. A biography of him wa s titled Donald of China. Davis, Palmer , an d man y other correspondent s wrote nonfictio n o n th e side. Some like Jack London an d John Fo x specialized in novels. Although Fox's work ha s no t endured , h e wa s successfu l i n hi s day . On e o f his mor e famou s novels, The Trail o f the Lonesome Pine, was adapte d fo r the stag e an d film . Wil l Levington Comfort , representin g severa l American papers , als o wrote novel s and is remembered for his interest in the occult . Others were know n chiefl y fo r their wor k i n visua l reporting. Sinc e th e Ashanti War i n 1873, artist Melton Prior had been covering battles for the Illustrated London News. H e i s memorialized in the cryp t of Saint Paul's Cathedral . James H . Har e was the first grea t darin g comba t photographer . Hi s maide n

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overseas assignment was for Colliers during the Spanish-America n War . Man y more wars followed. Richard Harding Davi s was to say, "No war is official unti l covered by Jimmy Hare." 14 Fewer correspondent s wer e statione d o n th e Russia n side , whos e fron t was much farthe r fro m it s national capita l tha n th e Japanese force s wer e fro m theirs. Th e correspondent s i n tha t grou p include d novelis t an d poe t Mauric e Baring, who represented th e Morning Post; Richard Henr y Little, who jumped temporarily from th e Chicago Tribune to the riva l Dally News; and Francis Mc Cullagh, who reporte d fo r the Ne w York Herald and th e Manchester Guardian. War correspondent s representin g th e Associate d Press , a s its corporate bulle tin noted , include d Lord Brooke , "the talente d so n of the Ear l of Warwick, and several well-known Russians . Mr. Kravschenko , the eminen t painte r an d literatteur [sic], wh o serve d th e Novoe Vremya durin g th e Boxe r troubles i n China , was engaged b y the Genera l Manager o f The Associated Pres s in St. Petersbur g in February an d took his departure for the Fa r East earl y in March." 15 The correspondents with the Russia n forces ha d a little something o f the old-time freedo m with which t o operate. "Once a correspondent did obtain per mission fro m th e Russian s to go to the front, " Lord Brook e remarked , "h e had practically carte blanche, h e could go to the firin g line and get himself killed i f he chose." 16 AP Genera l Manage r Melvill e Stone, seekin g to expand the reac h of this service , secure d permission from th e cza r t o sen d new s freel y fro m an y place in the country, except the front. "They turned ove r to us in St. Petersburg , daily, without mutilation, th e officia l report s mad e t o the Empero r an d to th e War Department." 17 Of course correspondents had complaints. Brooke and oth ers were loudl y unhapp y with censorshi p i n th e wa r zon e an d weary o f bein g under suspicion. Douglas Story , a Scotsman who represented the Daily Express, lamented th e ris e of censorship in Russia and elsewhere a s "a crisis in the affair s of correspondents which mus t lea d t o change." 18 But i n hi s memoir , The Campaign with Kuropatkin, h e had kin d words as well a s complaints for the Russia n censors and remembere d on e with whom h e socialize d a s "a friend." 19 The correspondent s o n th e Japan sid e o f the wa r di d stor e u p suc h fon d memories o f their pres s handlers. Burleig h spok e o f "the leashe d lif e o f a war correspondent with the Japanese,"20 and so did most everyone else. The Japanese

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kept them fro m th e front o n the pretense of protecting them. The only time th e Japanese told th e truth , sai d Richard Hardin g Davis , was "when the y sai d we would no t be allowed to do something we wanted to do." 21 "We are treated lik e children, nuisance s and possibl e spies, " John Fo x wrote hom e i n Ma y 1904. 22 Douglas Story , who had been with the Japanese before becoming the first foreign correspondent accredited with the Russia n Manchurian Army, said that a "free pres s was as much a marvel in Japan as a mastodon in Hyde Park." 23 Melton Prio r ranke d a s th e dea n o f th e correspondent s by din t o f hi s long caree r on battlefields. A frien d commente d that the war "nearly broke his heart."24 It wa s to be hi s last. Prior' s communication s shortly afte r arrivin g in 1904 capture the aggravation: 25 • FEBRUAR Y 17 . "Thi s is an excellent hotel, wit h suc h a nice manager. . . . A meetin g ha s just been hel d b y the correspondent s at the reques t of the Government t o settle abou t our transport in the field." • FEBRUAR Y 23 . The Japanese "are awfully secretive about everything an d frightened t o death a t our giving awa y the movement s of troops. . . . The Rothschild o f Japan, a Mr. Mitsui , hea d o f the hous e o f Mitsui, gav e us correspondents a great dinner at the Mitsui Clu b o n Sunday last, the 2ist, followed by a magnificent entertainment, with conjuring, dancing (Geisha girls), and a short Japanese play." • MARC H 15 . "Ther e i s absolutely n o excitemen t here , an d nothin g o f in terest to sketch; it is maddening. . . . You can never get a direct Yes or No out o f a Jap; h e say s it would no t b e polite, s o he equivocates , and hum bugs you." • MARCH 20 . "Th e Emperor opened the Parliamen t here in person to-day, and w e Pressmen were allowe d t o be present. It ha d bee n fo r some tim e very doubtful whether w e should, but this morning , abou t two hours before th e ceremony , we received ou r passes . We al l ha d t o g o i n evenin g dress. . . . Really it is a disgrace the way we are being treated. They will not tell us anything truthfully, but keep on humbugging us. " • APRIL 15 . "Most of the people in the hote l have been or are ill. I was well

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enough yesterda y to go to a reception a t the Shib a Palac e ordere d by th e Emperor a s a compliment t o the correspondents . . . . We ha d a gorgeous luncheon with every kind of wine, and the royal footmen to serve us. ... I am afrai d th e offic e mus t be very upset a t not receiving sketches, but tha t cannot be helped, an d we are all in the sam e fix." • MAY 5. "You must nearl y be a s sick of seeing, by the abov e address, that I am still here as I am. Is it not shocking to think tha t I have been a comparative prisoner in this tow n fo r over three months! " Maybe becaus e the Japanese worried tha t thei r restriction s o n correspondents were beginnin g t o damag e relation s wit h th e Britis h an d th e Unite d States , whose suppor t they wanted, the y allowe d sixtee n correspondent s to join Japanese force s i n April. 26 Tw o similarl y small groups wen t later . Seein g an y real fighting nevertheles s remained a problem. Battle s too k plac e on vast Manchu rian fields, sometimes obscured by tall millet and kowliang. Worse, th e Japanese still weren't intereste d i n coverage . Onl y afte r muc h pleading were correspon dents eve n receive d a t militar y headquarters . "Th e Grea t System, " derisivel y wrote Palmer , wh o was with th e first group, "decide d tha t on e correspondent might com e fro m thei r 'compound ' eac h da y an d ge t th e new s fo r all . Thi s was like standin g outside the inclosur e and having a man o n the fenc e tel l you who has the bal l o n whose fifteen-yar d line." 27 "Your prophecy concerning th e dearth o f telegraphic new s has been verified beyon d your fondest hopes," Willard Straigh t wrot e t o hi s AP boss , Martin Egan , "—ther e ha s been nothin g worth a message."28 Not until the end of July was Prior "of f to the front" with the second group. "It is true we are at the front , with the enem y within fou r mile s of us," he wrote at the en d of August, "but—an d this i s a very big 'but'!—we are simply prisoners within thes e city walls, and if we very particularly wish to go outside we have to make special application, and an officer i s sent to accompany us; but of course we are not allowe d t o go near the troop s o r outposts, o r see anything t o writ e about o r sketch." 29 Fou r correspondent s in th e secon d group—Richar d Hard ing Davis, John Fox , Georg e Lynch , an d Prior—missed a major battl e because

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their Japanese liaison office r tol d the m i t would no t tak e place . Fro m tim e t o time Censo r T. Okad a cam e to inform correspondents , "All is going accordin g to plan." "Don't forget to tell us if it's not," sai d Jack London. 30 Reports fro m th e field went thoug h maddenin g censorship , not onc e but multiple times . Telegrams wer e censored at the headquarter s and then a t othe r stations. Prior complained that six officers ha d an opportunity to make deletions before dispatches arrived at Nagasaki or Tokyo. B y the tim e the storie s reached England, h e lamented, "they were quite unreadable."31 Besides this, the Japanese were not dependable about promptly sending reports onward. Some stories took five or six weeks to reach home. Som e never made it at all. The Japanese were far from contrite . When he was still in waiting around in Tokyo , Prio r spok e to Genera l Fukushima , "ou r onl y mouthpiec e wit h th e Government." Th e genera l sai d tha t th e firs t grou p o f correspondent s "ha d given so much trouble an d had complained so much that he did not know what to do." 32

Many wh o rendezvoused a t the Imperia l Hotel had know n eac h othe r fo r decades. " I hav e no t com e acros s Burleig h ye t a s he i s at Nagasaki, but shal l d o so, I hope , ver y soon, " wrot e hi s ol d campaig n partne r Melto n Prio r shortl y after settlin g in. 33 Many remained thick with each other ou t of affection an d for practical reasons of mutual aid once they were in the field. But as time wore on, clouds swep t ove r the festiv e moo d o f reunion. After th e war , W. H . Donal d liked t o tell a story about two drun k correspondents who decided t o duel each other, a n idea that was prevented b y a timely earthquak e tha t gave them tim e to sober up. 34 One reason to hang around with other correspondents , Frederic k Villiers o f the London Graphic noted , wa s "t o keep watch upo n on e another." 35 None wanted a rival to get an advantage. One o f thes e prisoner s o f war mos t pron e t o escap e was Jack London . Palmer considere d him "th e mos t inherently individualistic and un-Socialist of all Socialists I have ever met and really, I thought, a philosophical anarchist." 36 He "preferre d t o walk alon e in aristocrati c aloofness, an d alway s in th e direc -

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tion h e chose no matter where anybody else was going." Just fou r day s after ar riving in Japan, Londo n brok e ou t o f the Imperia l Hotel, takin g th e trai n t o Moji, wher e Japanese police arreste d him fo r taking picture s in a n unauthor ized place . After th e America n ambassado r intervened, Londo n hire d a junk that took him to Korea . With anothe r renegade correspondent, Robert Dunn , who wa s reporting for the Ne w York Sun, he manage d for several weeks to ge t color storie s of life i n th e field , althoug h nothin g close-u p o f the fighting . I n early March 190 4 the Japanese put hi m i n a military prison an d subsequentl y attached hi m t o a group o f correspondents in Seoul . Hi s final run-i n with authorities occurre d when h e punche d a Japanese groom who m h e suspecte d of stealing fodder for his horse. He was arrested awaiting courts-martial. Honoring the code that correspondents help each other, even if the reporter in need is not all that comradely, Richard Harding Davi s contacted President Roosevelt, who arranged to have London free d upo n the condition that he go home. Lon don was happy to give up writing about "the woes of correspondents, swimming pools and peaceful templ e scenes." 37 If London's freelancing irritated them, correspondents did what they could to escape, too. Jimmy Hare slipped away to get stunning pictures of the Battl e of Yalu in May. Palmer was on his own for a couple of days when his conducting officer di d no t mee t him a s planned during the Battl e o f Liaoyang. The Italian reporter Luigi Barzin i managed to get a good loo k at the Battl e o f Mukden a t the end of the war. There was freelancing at sea as well. Befor e th e wa r started , th e Times of London made arrangements to deploy a new technology to get a jump on news.38 Lionel James hired a streamer, the Haimun, equipping it with a wireless transmitter, an d erected a i8o-foot-high mas t on the Chin a coas t to receive its messages. The New York Times shared in the cos t and benefited from resultin g sto ries. News he sent of the Japanese blockade of Port Arthur and their landing at Darien was significant. So was a story that the competitiv e James euchred fro m a London Daily Mail correspondent . The correspondent had been eyewitness to a battle scen e on the Manchuria-Korean border that the Japanese would no t let him report . James took him aboar d the Haimun an d offere d t o hel p hi m fin d

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a cabl e station, the n transmitte d th e storie s himself by wireless. To ensure th e Daily Mail corresponden t was full y ou t o f action, James liquore d hi m u p an d locked hi m i n his cabin. Correspondents i n Toky o wer e miffe d tha t James enjoye d a competitiv e advantage an d sough t t o leve l th e playin g field by urging Wester n official s t o lodge protests to the Japanese. Although James did not admit it for some years, he ha d mad e a dea l wit h th e Japanes e t o plac e a putative interprete r o n th e Haimun whos e rea l job wa s to ac t a s a censor and a spy for the navy . But eve n that arrangemen t was not enough . Eventuall y th e ever-war y Japanese scuttle d James's scheme, and he was back on land trying to cover the war. Disgusted with censorship restrictions, he eventually went home. 39 Boats without wireles s capabilit y plied th e water , too . The Fawan, char tered b y the Chicago Dally News, remaine d afloa t longe r tha n th e Haimun, bu t not without tribulations. 40 John Bass , the Daily News chief correspondent, too k the boat to the mout h o f the Yalu River and transferred to a Chinese junk that was to transport him upriver to the Japanese forces. The Chinese skipper, think ing he would get a reward for turning Bass over to the Russian s instead, headed in anothe r direction . Onc e h e figured this out , Bass mutinied , steerin g hom e with one hand and holding his revolver in the other. At one point the vessel took fire from the Russians. On two other occasions Russians seized the Fawan, once arresting correspondent Stanley Washburn. Finally , the Japanese purchased the boat fro m it s owner in order to end its activities. Correspondents wer e no t fa r removed fro m th e Spanish-America n War, where sensational reporting led to outright fabrication . And a s happened in that earlier conflict , competitor s like d t o unmas k colleagues wh o concocte d news . Noted th e English-language/^^^ Daily Mail'in Yokohama : "It appears, therefore, tha t the Britis h Daily Telegraph employ s as special correspondents spooks or spirits, omnipresent, since they can be simultaneously writing messages from Moji i n Japan an d takin g observation s on th e coas t o f Korea, and omniscien t since the y ca n witnes s imaginar y battles fro m a distanc e o f ove r 10 0 miles . Stranger stil l is it to find that this wonderful correspondent saw a battle funda mentally different fro m tha t which reall y took place." 41 The very best long-distance job o f faking news may have been a story con-

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cocted i n Baltimore. New s o f the las t great engagemen t o f the war, the Battl e of Tsushima i n May 1905 , trickled t o American papers, and much of the infor mation that did arrive fell into the categor y of rumor. After severa l days of this, H. L . Mencken , managin g edito r o f the Evening Herald, mad e up an account rich in detail . Th e story in the paper' s Tuesday edition , Ma y 30, began, "Fro m Chinese boatme n landin g upo n th e Korea n coas t come s th e firs t connecte d story of the grea t nava l battle i n the strait s of Korea on Saturda y and Sunday. " Mencken considere d the stor y his "masterpiece of all time, with the sol e exception of my bogus history of the bathtub." 42 (Mencken's subsequen t account of his escapade is wrong i n severa l respects. The dateline o f the stor y was Shanghai , not Seoul , a s he said. Furthermore, contrar y to another on e of his assertions, it was known by the tim e he wrote hi s story in the Herald that the Japanese defi nitely had won. But why would on e expect any more fidelity to truth i n Menck en's latter accoun t than i n the first?) By the en d o f 1904, th e numbe r o f correspondents covering the wa r ha d dwindled. Palmer , wh o went hom e fo r a while, cam e back the nex t year to see the final Battle o f Mukden. O f course he could no t take in much. While wait ing around for something to happen, he and Robert Collins , a n AP man , asked each other fro m tim e to time, "Hav e I ever told you" some personal story or another? The response, said Palmer, was "'Yes, you have, you babbling fountain of prolix repetition, ' o r something lik e that." 43 Tale spinning , lik e th e reporting , wore thin.

In Many Wars, b y Many Wa r Correspondents wa s bor n i n th e Imperia l Hote l at a time whe n th e correspondent s were, i f stymied , stil l hopeful . I t i s full o f the sort s o f stories tha t correspondent s were regalin g eac h othe r wit h i n th e hotel bar . Details abou t th e boo k ar e a s hazy a s the morning-afte r memorie s o f a boozy night. 44 In hi s memoir, Melton Prior spok e of plans to have a local Japanese printer produc e a n edition de luxe to sel l for a guinea (twenty-on e schil lings) an d a n ordinar y one costin g fiv e schillings . Ther e seem s t o hav e bee n discussion o f the on e versio n appearin g i n bot h Englis h an d Japanese. Als o

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Palmer wrot e hi s publisher, Scribner's , proposing that it bring ou t the book in the Unite d States , but i t apparently was not interested. A copy of the English language version printed in Japan is near impossible to find today. The one that forms the basis for this book was purchased from a London book seller and may be the mor e elegant edition , i f indeed two versions were printed. The book has a cove r of very fine cloth. The gilt title on the cove r seems to be hand painted . A silk cord binds the book. I have left th e text untouched, includin g the typos . The reader will not e authors ' signature s at the en d o f some of the stories . The correspondents signed smal l slips of paper that were pasted into eac h book . The correspondents hoped the book would mak e money, but not for them. "It i s said we ought t o clea r a t least £2,000, " Prio r speculate d i n earl y March, "but I believe we shall make much more." 45 The banking firm that had put o n a party for the correspondents , Mitsui 5c Co., acte d as treasurer and took up subscriptions. The proceeds were to go to a relief organization, th e "Teikok u Gun jin Yengokwai," for the benefit of those who were orphaned and widowed by the war. While the humanitaria n gesture ha d a nice ring t o it , on e expects it was cynical. It could not hurt t o curry favor with the authorities . The correspondents' personalities and humor come through i n these pages. They tel l thei r storie s i n differen t ways—prose , poems , pictures , an d eve n a short play . "Ho w shal l I eve r write it? " asks artist Gran t Wallace' s wa r corre spondent, facin g a blank page heade d "M y Most Interesting Experience. " A n Italian corresponden t writes a dreamy romantic story in his native language. A Frenchman, i n a similarly flowery account in hi s tongue , tell s o f his hope s o f reaching Korea, where the actio n was. Translations o f both are found i n appendices. Despite th e title , no t al l of its storie s ar e abou t wars or even journalism. Martin Egan tell s a boyhood tal e about a narrow escape from a rattlesnake bite. One o f the authors , Sir Bryan Leighton, may not have been a journalist at all. 46 "He i s a n interestin g man, " th e wif e o f the Belgia n ambassado r wrote i n he r diary in March 1904, "fon d o f adventure, an d I fanc y ha s com e out her e a s an amateur war-correspondent." 47 Sir Bryan is the lon e autho r no t t o hav e a news organization attache d t o his name in the table of contents. Yet most of the boo k is devote d t o correspondents ' routines , failures , an d triumphs . A P correspon -

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dent Sa m B . Trissel describe s his kit : " I fin d I hav e procure d everythin g ex cept a pianola, alarm clock, ice-crea m freezer, lace curtains for the tent , chest nut roaster, easy chair, umbrella, an d a safe deposi t vault for the dog. " Frankli n Clarkin o f the New York Evening Post captures the roiling emotions of reaching "the littl e corrugated zin c cable-hous e solitar y on a knoll[,]" where h e and his colleagues could file their stories , only to be let down when the y were informed that the way station in Halifax could not handle them. Th e biggest triump h for a war correspondent , o f course, is to sta y in the saddl e and alive , a point mad e more tha n once . " I had los t m y spurs," writes Will Levingto n Comfort , "an d it is a harsh thing to think now , but I kept th e pony on his feet by stabbing his flanks with a leadpencil [sic]." I n respons e to the reques t by Lynch an d Palme r to "Giv e u s your mos t excitin g wa r experience, " Georg e H . Kingswel l o f th e London Daily Express begins , "Here's mine , I nearly died with the Irish Brigad e in Natal. " And, yes , ther e ar e storie s abou t wha t Perciva l Phillip s call s th e "Cam paign o f the Imperia l Hotel." London recount s his first arrest in Japan. In th e chapter writte n a s a play, which take s plac e o n th e "Verand a of the Imperia l Hotel, Tokyo," bewhiskere d correspondent s learn tha t the wa r "ende d thirty nine years ago! And th e War Offic e neve r told us! "

One reason for Japan's victory was, as Thomas Millard reported , "a carefully ma tured plan , carrie d out thoroughly an d with remarkable attention t o details." 48 As effectiv e a s Japan was at planning an d executin g th e war , ther e wasn' t an y evidence that restrictions on the press made any great difference in the outcome . Correspondents wer e adaman t that the y woul d neve r repor t informatio n that would giv e awa y vital informatio n to th e enem y of the force s the y wer e with. In his memoir about the war, even the "wild" Benne t Burleigh insisted , "What a creature that correspondent would b e who would betra y the hos t with who m he remaine d a s an honoure d guest!" 49 Yet nothing wa s lost a s a result o f con straining correspondents either. Russian General Alexi Kuropatkin, looking for scapegoats, pointed t o the press in his memoir. "Many o f the correspondent s at the front , ill-informe d a s to ou r own operations , an d worse informed as to th e

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enemy's, di d no t scrupl e to dispatc h report s founded on entirely unreliable in formation, an d so, by exaggerating the importanc e of every reverse, shook pub lic confidence still more." 50 Another lesso n of the war lay in Japan's public relations activities. Well before the conflict, the Japanese realized that to be a member of the Grea t Power s they had to convince the world they were a civilized nation. Management o f international opinion als o was central to allayin g concern about a "Yellow Peril" and stavin g off efforts t o take awa y Japan's spoils afterward. The Foreign Min istry carried out a study of Western public opinion in the foreig n press in 1898. Two years later Japan took more direct steps not only to monitor news coverage in Europ e an d th e Unite d State s bu t als o to promot e Japanese views. Amon g other things, they distributed releases to news bureaus under false names. When war loomed, they sent two special envoys abroad, one to Europe and one to th e United States , t o coordinate what toda y would b e called public diplomacy. "By manipulating the Britis h press," instructed Japanese Foreign Ministe r Komur a Jutaro in February 1904, "we must persuasively explain the righteousnes s of our cause an d hel p t o defen d ou r interest s b y showin g tha t th e Japanese govern ment wa s obliged t o tak e u p arm s in self-defens e an d tha t Yellow Peri l prin ciples are unreasonable, etc."51 The Japanese took othe r measure s to affir m thei r modernity. Th e Japanese Red Cros s ha d th e larges t membershi p i n th e world . It impresse d foreigners who ha d th e opportunit y t o observ e the car e given t o wounded Russian s during the war. Ashmead-Bartlett mad e note o f the "desir e on the part of the Japanese Headquarters Staf f to avoid anything i n the natur e of an appearance of triumph ove r the falle n foe." 52 This worked . Jac k Londo n lef t wit h il l will towar d hi s hosts , who m h e considered "childish" an d "savages." 53 John Fox, who carried away "in heart an d mind the nameless charm of the land and of the people," hated thei r "polit e du plicity."54 But sentimen t i n th e Unite d State s an d Grea t Britai n ra n heavil y in favor o f the islan d nation. "Th e opinio n prevail s here that Japanese diplomacy is comparatively open an d trustworthy—more 'Christian' than Christia n Rus sia's," editorialized Century magazine.55 Rev. J. H. D e Forrest was well aware of the plight of the correspondent s "cooped u p in the Imperia l Hotel." 56 But that

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did no t overshado w his goo d feeling s about Japanese intentions. "Ther e were no drunken feasts, n o geisha girls, n o gambling, n o demoralizing loafing afte r the victories, but ceaseless preparation for the next battle," D e Forrest wrote in the The Missionary Review o f the World. "Th e Japanese are a wonderfully openminded people, seeking for truth and light in all the world." 57 These lessons were not lost on political and military leaders in World War I. Thi s was the firs t tota l war . Entir e societie s were mobilize d int o enormou s war machines. This machinery included gears and levers to control what people knew and what the y thought, an effort tha t naturally involved correspondents. Governments organized them, censore d them, an d fed them information on an unprecedented scale. "Propaganda dates back 2,400 years, to Sun-tzu' s The Ar t of War, but the First World War sa w its first use in an organized, scientific manner," writes Phillip Knightle y in his history of war reporting. "Wa r correspon dents were among its first victims."58 Many o f the author s i n thi s boo k wer e par t o f that conflict . John Bass , Jimmy Hare, an d Richard Harding Davi s covered the war, the latter, just fiftyone years old, dyin g i n 191 6 o f a heart attack . Perciva l Phillips , wh o acquire d British citizenship , wa s one o f the first five correspondents accredited t o th e British Army on the Western Front . After the war he was knighted, a s Knightley snidely puts it, "fo r his service s to his country, if not t o journalism."59 Elli s Ashmead-Bartlett brough t fort h a story worthy o f William Howar d Russell , telling o f a n eyewitnes s accoun t o f the botche d Britis h landin g a t Gallipoli . Commanding Genera l Ia n Hamilton , wh o sai d th e reporte r "coul d no t b e trusted," lifted his credentials, but it was the general's career that came to an end when a n inquiry into the campaign was completed.60 After the war, Ashmead Bartlett was elected to Parliament. Rober t MacHugh, an Irishman who represented th e London Daily Telegraph, commande d a n artiller y brigade i n World War I and later worked as a spy, entering Germany dressed as a Spaniard. Wil liam Maxwell, knighte d i n 1919, became head of a section of the Britis h Secre t Service. Martin Ega n lef t journalism before th e war to do promotion work for J. P. Morgan 5cCo . During the war he served as an aide to General John Persh ing, who commanded the American Expeditionary Force (AEF) i n France. (H e

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was a military observer during the Russo-Japanes e War.) Ega n als o kept up his old friendships from th e war. Egan ha d a telephone conversatio n with Richar d Harding Davi s minutes before hi s old comrade died. What of the editor s of this book? George Lync h starte d ou t covering the war for the Westminster Gazette. Before it was over he founded the Barbe d Wire Traverser Compan y Ltd. Hi s invention s for overcoming barbed wire included special gloves an d a quilt tha t coul d b e use d t o bridg e th e shar p obstruction . Frederick Palme r spen t a number o f frustrating months tryin g t o g o int o th e field with Britis h force s durin g th e war . When th e Unite d State s entere d th e fray, patriotis m led him t o turn hi s press pass in for an AEF uniform . His jo b was t o manag e the pres s for Pershing, wit h who m h e ha d struc k up a friendship durin g th e Russo-Japanes e War. Thi s was no t a happy experience , what with correspondents ' complaints about not being able to see the first American troops go into the trenches or the first of them buried. United Pres s correspondent Lowel l Mellet t sai d that Palmer , th e "censor-in-chief, " wa s "the saddes t Major i n the U.S. Army." 61 "I use d t o hav e som e friend s i n th e arm y an d amon g newspape r men, " Palmer said , "Now I' m suspec t to both sides . The arm y suspects me because I try t o convinc e them ther e i s a lot o f stuff tha t really ought t o be printed; th e newspapermen because there i s a lot of stuff that really ought not." 62 John Maxwel l Hamilto n March 2010 NOTES 1. Georg e Lynch , Impressions o f a Wa r Correspondent, reprinte d ed . (London : Georg e Newnes, 1903 ; repr., Gloucestershire, UK : Dodo Press, n o date), xi. 2. Earle Albert Selle , Donald o f China (New York: Harper, 1948) , 22. 3. Frederic k Palme r t o Arthu r Scribner , March 25 , 1904, Archives o f Charle s Scribner' s Sons, Specia l Collections, Princeto n Universit y Library. 4. Rober t W. Desmond , The Information Process: World News Reporting to the Twentieth Century (Iow a City: University of Iowa Press, 1978), 417-29, identifies many of the correspon dents sen t to cover the war .

FOREWORD 5. Thoma s F . Millard, "Th e Wa r Corresponden t an d Hi s Future, " Scribners, Februar y

1905, 243 6. Archibal d Forbes , "Wa r Correspondenc e a s a Fin e Art, " Century, Decembe r

1892, 294. 7. Melton Prior , "I s th e Wa r Corresponden t a Necessity of Civilization?" The Idler, Sep tember 1897, 2 ^48. James M . Perry , A Bohemian Brigade: The Civil Wa r Correspondents (Ne w York: John Wiley 8c Sons, 2000), 144. 9. Herbert Croly , Willard Straight (New York: Macmillan, 1925) , 125-26. 10. Nathan A. Haverstock , Fifty Years at th e Front: The Life o f Wa r Correspondent Frederick Palmer (Washington, D.C. : Brassey's , 1996), 121 . 11. Desmond, The Information Process, 419. 12. Haverstock, Fifty Years at th e Front, 122 . 13. F. Lauriston Bullard, Famous War Correspondents (Boston : Little, Brown, 1914), 194. 14. Cecil Caxnes, Jimmy Hare: News Photographer (Ne w York: Macmillan, 1940) , 131 . 15. "The War Staff, " Service Bulletin o f the Associated Press, October 15 , 1904, 7. 16. Phili p Towle , "Britis h War Correspondent s an d th e War, " i n Rethinking th e RussoJapanese War, 1904—1905, ed . Rote m Kowne r (Folkestone , Kent , CT : Globa l Oriental , 2007), 321. 17. Melville E . Stone , Fifty Years a Journalist (Garde n City , NY : Doubleday , Page , 1921) , 277-78. 18. Douglas Story , The Campaign with Kuropatkin (London: T. Werner Laurie , 1904), 64. 19. Ibid., 106 20. Bullard, Famous War Correspondents, 228. 21. Richar d Hardin g Davis , Notes o f a Wa r Correspondent (Ne w York : Scribner's , 1914), 220. 22. John Fox, Jr., Personal and Family Letters and Papers, comp . Elizabeth Fo x Moore (Lex ington: University of Kentucky Library Associates, 1955), 60 . 23. Story, The Campaign with Kuropatkin, 43. 24. S . L. Bensusan , preface to , Campaigns o f a Wa r Correspondent^ Melto n Prior (Lon don: Edward Arnold, 1912) , v. 25. Prior, Campaigns o f a Wa r Correspondent, 320-35 . 26. Frederic k Palmer , With My Ow n Eyes: A Personal Story o f Battle Years (Indianapolis : Bobbs Merrill, 1932) , 237. Foreign Ministry official s responsibl e for following public opinion in Europe and the Unite d State s urged a relaxation of press restitutions, which the y viewed as counterproductive. See Robert G. Valliant , "The Selling of Japan: Japanese Manipulation of Western Opinion , 1900-1905, " Monumenta Nipponica 2 9 (Winter 1974) , 431-32.

FOREWORD 27. Frederick Palmer , With Kuroki in Manchuria (Ne w York: Scribner's, 1904), 223. 28. Willard Straigh t t o Martin Egan , Jul y 14 , 1905 , Willard Dickerma n Straigh t Papers , Cornel Universit y Library. 29. Prior , Campaigns of a Wa r Correspondent, 332 , 335. 30. Palmer, With My Ow n Eyes, 239 . 31. Prior, Campaigns of a Wa r Correspondent, 329-30 . Als o se e Michael S . Sweeny, '"Delays and Vexation' : Jack Londo n an d the Russo-Japanes e War," Journalism & Mass Communication Quarterly 75 (Autumn 1998) , 554. 32. Prior, Campaigns of a Wa r Correspondent, 329. 33. Prior, Campaigns of a Wa r Correspondent, 323. 34. Selle , Donald o f China, 22-23. 35. Desmond, The Information Process, 420. 36. Palmer , With My Ow n Eyes, 242 . Details o f London' s wartim e experienc e are found in Ale x Kershaw , Jack London: A Life (Ne w York : St . Martin' s Press , 1997) , chapte r 9 , an d Sweeny, '"Delays and Vexation'" 548-59 . 37. Sweeny, "'Delay s an d Vexation,' " 555. See als o Rober t Dunn , World Alive: A Personal Story (Ne w York: Crown, 1956) , chapter 8. 38. Peter Slattery , Reporting the Russo-Japanese War, 1904—5 (Folkestone, Kent , CT: Globa l Oriental, 2004) , 37-38, an d passim ; Gavi n Weightman , Signor Marconi's Magic Box (Cam bridge, MA : DaCapo , 2003) , chapter 24 ; Desmond, The Information Process, 421-24. A firs t person accoun t i s David Fraser , A Modern Campaign: Or Wa r and Wireless Telegraphy i n the Far East (London: Methuen , 1905) . 39. Valliant, "Th e Sellin g o f Japan," 437. 40. The Fawans adventures are described in Charles H . Dennis , Victor Lawson: His Time and His World (Chicago : Universit y of Chicago Press , 1935) , 268-71. 41. "Feats o f Reporting," Service Bulletin o f the Associated Press, September i, 1905, 4. 42. Baltimore Evening Herald, May 29 , 1905; H. L . Mencken, Newspaper Days: 1899-1906 (New York: Alfred A. Knopf , 1941), 272. 43. Palmer, With My Ow n Eyes, 259. 44. Prior , Campaigns o f a Wa r Correspondent, 324 ; Haverstock , Fifty Years

a t th e

Front, 122 . 45. Prior, Campaigns of a Wa r Correspondent, 324. 46. Sir Bryan, ninth baronet , wa s a military man with a passion for horses and wars. O n his own initiative, h e went t o Cuba i n hopes of joining th e American force s i n the Spanish American War . H e di d no t find a place in the military , but rod e aroun d a good bit , thank s to the foresigh t of having brought hi s own horse. He was in the compan y of correspondents

FOREWORD from tim e to time, an d one history mentions in passing that h e wrote for the New York Journal. H e late r wa s on han d fo r the Boe r War and , afte r th e Russo-Japanes e War, wit h th e Turks in the Balkan War. H e commande d a regiment during World War I and was an early proponent of military aviation. Although hi s journalism status is in doubt, his poem ("Waiting an d loafin g an d drinkin g an d smoking/Honestl y (? ) earning our pay!" ) i s very much i n the spri t of bona fide correspondents in Tokyo. Si r Bryan's Cuba adventur e is described in E. Ransom , "Barone t o n th e Battlefield : Sir Bryan Leighton i n Cuba, " Journal o f American Studies 9 (April 1975), 13-20. The passing reference to him a s a correspondent is in Charles H . Brown, The Correspondents' War: Journalists i n th e Spanish-American Wa r (New York: Scrib ner's, 1967), 361. 47. Baroness Albert dAnethan , Fourteen Years o f Diplomatic Life i n Japan (London : Stan ley Paul, 1912) , 366. 48. Thomas F. Millard, "Th e Fighting i n Manchuria," Scribners, Octobe r 1904 , 412. 49. Benne t Burleigh , Empire o f the East: O r Japan an d Russia a t War, 1904-5 (London : Chapman ScHall , 1905), 446. 50. Alexi Kuropatkin , The Russian Army an d the Japanese Wa r (New York: E. P . Button, 1909), xviii. The Japanese were just a s hard o n foreig n military observers. As Palme r notes , "The tactic s o f the Worl d Wa r wer e predicate d i n th e Russo-Japanes e War. Th e attache s wanted t o se e the operation s of the infantr y from th e contac t t o the takin g o f a position i n order t o kno w th e effec t o f quick-firing, long-range weapons . This th e Japanese would no t permit. Their public reason was that foreigners might b e mistaken for Russians by Japanese soldiers in the heart of combat. But [Major-General] Fuji i gave me the basic reason when he said: 'We are paying for this information with ou r blood.'" Palmer, With My Ow n Eyes, 248. The restrictions on foreign military observers are discussed in J. N. Westwood, Russia Against Japan, 1904—05: ANew Look at the Russo-Japanese Wa r (Albany: State University of New York Press, 1986) . 51. Valliant, "The Sellin g of Japan," 423. 52. Rotem Kowner, "Becoming an Honorary Civilized Nation : Remaking Japan's Military Image during the Russo-Japanes e War, 1904-1905, " The Historian 6 4 (Fall 2001) , 30. 53. Sweeny, '"Delays and Vexation,' " 554. 54. John Fox , Jr. , Following the Sun-Flag: A Vain Pursuit through Manchuria (Ne w York: Scribner's, 1905), 187 , 189 . 55. "America n Sentimen t Concernin g Russi a an d Japan, " The Century, Septembe r

1904, 816. 56. J . H. DeForest , "Wa r New s from Japan," Independent, April 7, 1904. 57. J. H . D e Forrest , "Wha t I Foun d i n Manchuria," The Missionary Review o f the World,

FOREWORD November 1905 , 849-50 . Th e spellin g o f the author' s nam e varie s in th e tw o publications . 58. Philli p Knightley , The First Casualty, rev . ed . (Baltimore , Johns Hopkin s Universit y Press: 200), 85. 59. Knightley, The First Casualty, 190 . 60. The comment o n Ellis Ashmead-Bartlett i s from a report in the files of the America n Expeditionary Force, Fiel d Censor t o Chief, C.2.D, March 2,1919 , Record Group 120 , Entr y 228, Box 6132 , National Archives . 61. Mellett's quote i s from a story that he wrote abou t th e problem s of censorship, whic h was recorded in an AEF memorandum , D.C.C. (for Mr. Hurley) , Decembe r 15,1917 , Recor d Group 120 , Entr y 239 , Box 6211 , Nationa l Archives . Palme r like d Mellett , whom h e ofte n visited in Washington after th e war "just because he makes me feel better." Palmer , With My Own Eyes, 374. 62. AEF memorandum , D.C.C. (for Mr. Hurley) , Decembe r 15 , 1917 .

PREFACE man y wa r correspondent s wer e waitin g i n Toki o W'. HILE to g o t o th e fron t wit h the Japanes e army , the ide a wa s suggested an d readil y taken up , tha t eac h shoul d writ e a shor t story o f on e o f hi s mos t interestin g experiences . Th e entir e proceeds o f the sale, th e authors decided , should be devoted t o th e "Teikoku Gunji n Yengokwai, " associatio n fo r th e relie f of thos e serving in the Arm y and Navy . Th e object s o f this societ y ar e : To giv e assistanc e t o thos e wh o com e unde r the followin g classification, alway s however , wit h du e consideratio n fo r th e relief give n b y othe r simila r public and privat e institutions. Distressed familie s o f me n servin g i n th e Arm y an d Nav y who ar e kille d or di e while o n service . Men servin g i n the Arm y an d Nav y wh o becom e cripple s while on service , a s wel l a s th e familie s o f such men , in case of distress. Distressed familie s o f me n servin g i n the Arm y an d Nav y whether a t th e sea t o f war, o r i n fortresses , garrisons , etc . a t home. The author s appea l to , an d rel y on , th e charit y an d goo d feeling o f publishers no t t o publis h an y cop y o f this editio n which the editor s hav e no t th e opportunit y o f copyrightin g i n Englishspeaking countries . GEORGE LYNCH . EDITORS. FREDERICK PALMER . Imperial Hotel . Tokio, Ma y 8th , 1904 .

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In Many "Wars, oy Many "War Corresponaents

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A Nava l Engagemen t In forme r day s one-o f the mos t Fascinating features of / and als o on e o f the greates t incentive s t o warfare , wa s the prospec t o f loot i t held ou t t o the contendin g armies . No w all that i s changed ; th e soldier , hi s officer , and hi s genera l ar e pai d a n equivalen t i n money , fo r wha t a gratefu l government consider s h e woul d formerl y hav e mad e b y lootin g fro m th e enemy. This syste m i s worke d ou t o n a calculation—a t leas t i t wa s afte r the Sout h Africa n War—tha t th e lootin g capacit y o f a fiel d marsha l was formerly fou r hundre d time s a s grea t as that of a privat e soldier. Ho w far thi s was true i t is impossible to say ; one thing is quite certain , n o fiel d marshal has eve r refuse d hi s shar e o f battu mone y o n the groun d that it s proportions constitute d a libe l o n hi s predecessors i n that office . When th e Turkis h arm y take s th e field , i t is a noticeable fact, that the mora l tone o f everyone connecte d with it is considerably lowered . A n idea seem s t o be prevalent tha t yo u migh t just a s well tak e anythin g that comes you r way , fo r th e simpl e reaso n tha t i f yo u d o not , th e nex t person wh o come s along will. Thus I have seen th e mos t respectabl e member s of societ y an d others busily engage d i n stripping th e interio r o f a Gree k Church , i n orde r t o save th e Icon s from sacrileg e a t th e hand s o f the infidel . The Turkis h soldie r i n realit y care s littl e fo r looting; there ar e few things h e covets , thes e h e takes , al l els e h e passe s by . No t s o th e irregulars who accompany him on his campaigns. Th e Albania n i s a born plunderer, i t i s hi s vacatio n durin g peace an d war. Bot h th e Turk s an d the Albanian s are perfectl y justified i n their behaviour . Even i f th e prospec t o f "battu mone y wer e hel d ou t t o them , th e chances o f getting i t woul d be s o small, that each ma n migh t wel l fee l

(2 ) incumbent o n hi m t o hol d a few articles as security , until his governmen t settled hi s claim. Also , whether the Tur k loote d o r not, h e woul d alway s be accuse d o f i t b y th e res t o f Europe. Th e ol d belie f that a Christian, however bad , must o f necessity be better tha n a good Turk , die s hard . After th e captur e o f th e Malun a Pass b y the Turkis h arm y unde r Edhem Pasha, the Greek s took u p a position in the plai n o f Thessaly, som e 18 mile s fro m Larissa . Th e mornin g fixe d fo r th e assault , whil e th e troops wer e takin g u p their allotted positions , i t wa s suddenl y discovere d that n o enem y existe d t o attack . Th e evenin g befor e som e irregular Cavalry attache d t o th e Turkis h arm y ha d wandere d clos e t o th e Greek lines . Thei r appearanc e ha d cause d a panic ; th e whol e arm y fled precipitatel y i n th e directio n o f Larissa , th e rea r protecte d b y som e war correspondents, who coul d no t realis e the necessit y for such a sudden departure. Th e pani c did not sto p at Larissa ; th e mo b o f soldiers , cam p followers, spectators , war correspondents , and inhabitant s o f Lariss a itself , passed righ t throug h the-tow n and " finally cam e to a hal t a t Valestino s an d Volo. When th e Turk s entere d th e tow n Lariss a wa s practicall y deserted , except fo r the scu m of the gaols , who had bee n released an d wer e engage d in looting th e houses , the credi t fo r thi s achievemen t being subsequentl y bestowed o n the Turks . The European s attache d t o th e arm y wer e allotted empty houses by the Provos t Marshal . Th e occupant s o f th e hous e i n whic h I ha d quarters ha d evidentl y left i n a hurry. Th e floo r an d be d wer e strew n with articles o f clothing, scen t bottles , hai r pin s an d handkerchiefs . O n th e following da y I foun d ou t tha t thi s hous e had bee n the residenc e o f the Crown Princ e an d Crow n Princess o f Greece. Princ e Constantin e a t tha t time commande d th e army ; th e pani c ha d 'overtake n th e Princ e an d Princess s o suddenl y tha t the y wer e onl y jus t abl e t o ge t awa y i n time , leaving half their baggage behind . Under these circumstance s I though t i t would b e justifiabl e t o carr y away a few article s as souvenir s an d mad e i a selection , whic h include d aniong othe r thing s a dress . Thes e I annexed , tha t I believ e i s th e

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polite wor d use d i n war for what constitutes robbery i n times o f peace, Some months later, the writer, in company with the late Sir E. Ashniead Bartlett, M . P. , returne d fro m th e front . Th e bridge s ove r th e Rive r Peneaus havin g bee n destroyed , i t was necessar y t o skir t along the coast in a smal l sailin g ship , lade n wit h corn , an d manne d b y Greeks . W e rather suspecte d th e sailor s of treachery s o kept a carefu l watc h o n the m during th e nigh t t o se e tha t the y saile d i n th e righ t direction . On e morning, when six miles from ou r destination Platamona, we found ourselves, becalmed. Thre e littl e clouds of smoke righ t dow n in the horizo n marke d the trac k o f som e steamer . Thi s seeme d greatl y t o interes t ou r crew . They talke d amon g themselve s ; w e asked wha t it all meant . " Nothing. Italian me n of war," wa s the answe r give n us . Warship s the y certainl y were, and comin g up fast. W e urge d the sailors to get ou t the sweep s and row u s ashore ; thi s the y refuse d t o do . A close r acquaintanc e showe d the strang e vessel s t o consis t of a gunboat an d two torped o boats , but o f what nationalit y it was impossible to say . N o fla g wa s displayed . The y circled roun d ou r devote d littl e craf t trainin g thei r gun s o n her . Th e gunboat ra n u p the Gree k flag and an office r i n excellen t Englis h invite d us t o surrende r a s prisoner s o f war , withou t furthe r resistance , a s th e consequences would onl y be disastrous. Thi s latter remar k seeme d to m e a quit e unnecessar y sarcasism. We politel y but firmly declined to surrende r and go on board th e gun boat. Thi s upse t all their calculations ; the y had not reckoned o n a refusal . The senio r officers hel d a conference; thi s laste d som e time but n o decision was reached ; finall y a boo k o f rule s wa s produced, i n it a passage was found evidentl y meeting the requirement s o f the situation . The gunboa t supporte d b y th e torped o boats , move d toward s ou r little ship ; fo r a momen t I though t i t wa s he r intention to ra m us, so close di d sh e come . Bu t no ; the y preferre d t o tak e u s b y boarding . Twenty-five sailors , arme d wit h rifle s an d fixed bayonets, an d le d b y a n officer, dashe d upo n the dec k cheerin g loudly . The y seize d ou r baggag e and commence d to searc h th e vessel , prodin g the cor n with their bayonets, under thi s all my loot wa s concealed. Rifles , swords, helmets, picture s and

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ornaments were all brought to light and handed u p into the gunboat , finally tthe preciou s parcel , containin g th e propert y o f th e Crow n Princ e an d Princess was produced. A Gree k sailo r untie d it, glance d a t the contents , then flun g i t down o n th e dec k wit h a gesture o f contempt, at th e same time makin g some remar k which caused his comrades to laugh. I suppos e It was " Chercher la temme'" o r its equivalent. " Ah, you villain," I thought , " if you only leave that parce l an d dres s alon e you may have everythin g els e wit h pleasure. " Leav e i t h e di d and I seize d the first opportunity t o conceal it. They nex t trie d t o induc e u s to follow ou r baggage o n to th e gun boat. W e refuse d absolutel y t o leav e th e sailin g ship . Th e Captai n begged u s t o yiel d t o the inevitabl e a s he ha d n o desire to us e force, h e pleaded i n vain; and in despair returned to his own ship. Wha t wa s the poor man to d o ? Hi s first act wa s to summo n the senio r officers o f the torpedo boats to another conference. A t length a decision wa s reached . A rop e was fastened ' t o th e mas t o f ou r vessel , a sailo r placed over it as sentry r steam was got up , th e torped o boat s too k u p a strategica l positio n o n either flank, the whole flotilla steering for Volo. Th e se a ha d meanwhil e risen, what forc e could no t accomplish the motion o f the boa t could. I fel t my resolution ^gradually deserting me, the big , comfortable gunboat looked so very temptin g fro m ou r smal l boat catching th e ful l benefi t o f th e wav e thrown u p by her screw . Knowin g that m y father woul d never give way , I though t it best to surrender unconditionall y without consultin g him, _ so waved a whit e handkerchief . Thi s signa l wa s understoo d ; th e scre w stopped, willin g .hand s hoiste d u s o n board , ou r captivit y ha d commenced.

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President McKinle y s Assassination . During th e afternoo n o f Septembe r 8 , 109 1 I stood , wit h five fellow reporters, o n a raise d platform unde r a staine d glas s windo w i n the Templ e of Music at th e Pan-America n expositio n i n Buffalo , Ne w York . I n fron t of us th e chair s had bee n angle d t o for m a n aisl e fro m on e door t o th e other an d at th e ape x o f the aisl e stood Willia m McKinley , receiving . The ligh t wa s subdue d an d fro m th e pip e orga n welle d th e solem n music of Bach. Muc h as lumbermen propel logs with cant hook s a t a spring drive, the soldier s o f th e marin e guar d wer e pushin g th e peopl e o f th e streets u p the aisle to the apex and out through th e opposite door. I t was a solvent settin g fo r the clima x of a tragedy. Ther e wa s the chie f of a grea t nation, a gloriou s architecture , a sublim e religiou s anthem ; agains t thi s came a rabbl e representin g th e huma n undergrowth of millions. The crowd—sweaty , coarse , dull—ha d bee n filin g throug h i n . fitful sluggishness for les s than an hour whe n I hear d two shots, on e like the hit , the other like the mis s o f a ca p pistol. Befor e m e the floo r becam e suddenl y chaotic. Th e dee d wa s as a flash of forked lightnin g in summer, when one moment all is serene an d beautiful , the nex t a giant oak , shattere d an d ugly , proclaims a t ghastly end . Presiden t McKinle y lay i n th e arm s o f the Ex position's president, moaning , fumbling red-dabble d fingers across hi s bare d bosom. H e ha d bee n sho t i n the chest and stomach. O n the floor in fron t of him sprawle d a blood y fanatic , wit h eye s glarin g i n tigeris h satisfaction , shrieking a defian t laugh , an d a bold curs e : "I hav e don e m y duty." I n a frenz y o f remorse an d rage , th e detective wh o had let him pass wa s trying to kick of f the assassin' s head . Wit h bayonet s o n their muskets , obscenel y swearing, the marine s were prickin g som e o f th e peopl e i n drivin g the m from th e temple . Not this , bu t later , whe n I realized what i t meant , was the mos t drama -

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tic momen t I hav e lived , for I sa w th e assassinatio n o f a Presiden t o f the United States . Through th e followin g tw o weeks o f gloom, a gloo m tha t la y over th e civilized worl d like a pall, I followe d the body of the murdered man. Ther e were eight day s o f weary waiting, in alternate hop e and despair, for the end . When th e wa n pulse ha d ceased, Theodor e Roosevelt , th e President-to-be , made hi s fervid, startlin g declaration to stan d b y th e policie s o f th e mar tyred statesman . The n th e worl d stoo d still while a nation buried its dead. What a burial it was ! A s we passed o n the funera l train from Buffal o t o Washington, from Wa.shington to Canton, the States stood by as silent sister s draped i n black t o hono r him whose memor y alone coul d be honored . A t the Whit e House , th e admiral s an d generals o f th e Unite d State s accompanied th e caske t t o the Eas t room , where th e body la y in state. Pennsylvania Avenue wa s in a drizzlin g rain . Th e skie s seeme d weep ing. I rod e i n a carriag e wit h Genera l Otis . Fro m th e window s peopl e could b e see n linin g the broa d way , canopied by umbrellas. A do g yelped . A ma n jerked of f his coat, threw it over th e dog , seize d th e hairy , discor dant throat i n a gri p as of steel fang s an d choke d ou t a mongre l life . Then , with ha t off , hi s eye s filmy , th e rai n bathin g hi m mistil y as i n tears, th e man watche d the procession, , the do g dea d at his feet. So , six week s later , in an electri c chair , the assassi n was hustle d fro m existence . The pac e o f that retur n of death t o th e hom e o f triumph was slow, the silence mor e intens e than absence o f sound ; i t was the dirg e praye r o f millions, unvoiced . Fro m ahea d cam e th e muffle d bea t o f drums, indistinct through th e rain , like a dream . Thi s sublimatio n of a national sorrow, per vasive as death , eterna l as mystery , melancholy as the mino r chord of music underlying the jo y o f all peoples, ca n never be forgotten. I t wa s a momen t in which , lookin g back , a ma n find s tha t hi s sou l leape d fort h t o th e unknown. Nor ca n b e forgotte n the entr y t o Canton , whe n behin d the caske t marched th e President , th e leadin g senator s and foreig n ministers , and, in full uniform , thei r breast s glitterin g wit h decorations , th e general s heade d by Mile s and th e admiral s by Dewey . I n fron t cam e th e veteran s o f the

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23d Ohio , Civi l Wa r heroe s o f whom William McKinle y ha d bee n one . The crow d was packed o n each sid e o f th e stree t unti l fro m a height i t seemed a caipet wove n o f humanity . Th e town' s populatio n ha d bee n three time s doubled . Agai n th e pac e wa s slow , th e silenc e absolute . The su n shone mellow, the ai r wa s cynicall y cleat " and cool . Th e stillnes s was pierced by on e note only—the mournfu l plain t of a flut e a s i t caroled, " Flee As a Bird. " The nex t day, under the upshoo t of a shaft o f granite where it assembled the mis t of a sullen afternoon, I sa w the body laid away forever, whil e a new President stoo d near , with tha t prescien t di e across hi s past an d i n his fac e the raptur e of a hig h resolve .

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From Ou r Specia l a t th e Fron t Roving knight s of the pencil , Jolly smooth blades are we, In ruc k and luc k o f camp and march , On intravenal sea. Ping o f wire in ou r rifles , Boom o f mail from ou r mounts , We fir e a t sight, an d sight t o fire World echoe s fro m ou r 'founts/ Old World's a monstrous gossip, A babbling dame o' the town ; " O say ! " " D'ye hea r ? " " What's that ? "It's fro m Our labia l godown. Blest an d curs t o f the nations , Strife sentinel s ar e we , Of royal tilts as Moltk c bred To slin k of Soudanee. At th e far-flung drama' s crux , We hardily hold stalls , Critical, erudite, eager , As a nation rises o r falls . Grim in the clas h o f epochs , We mask all cringe at fight ; Nor chec k nor laud ; tell and let tell Of Nihon and Muscovite.

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Wait in capital eddy The strid e o f epaulette ; O, rasp and gash, ye censor blade; Earn the silence ye get! Up, away in the morning ; Pick of peoples at eve ; Under the stars , with sal t of blood, We snif f th e gru b they leave . What gru b for hollow hillsides, Ghastly, commo n and sore ; What purg e o f the ran k earth's sournes s In sacramental gore! Soldierly dash an d danger, None o f a soldier's pay: We dare and risk, we flare and flout, All we can do is—say!

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Under th e Fir e o f a n Internationa l Fleet . Fifty me n of war, the watc h dog s o f th e Europea n Powers , dragge d at their chains wit h the eb b an d flo w o f th e tid e i n Sud a Bay . I n ful l view, less tha n three mile s distant, the Turkis h block-hous e Malax a stoo d on the edg e o f an ari d plateau , outline d against the sheer , dazzlin g walls of the White Mountain s o f Crete . O n thre e side s o f th e block-hous e th e Cretan insurgent s lay, rifl e presse d against jowl. Thes e black-bearded men in voluminous trousers wer e gathere d i n group s whereve r a depression , ridge, o r bolder , offere d cover . I n th e centr e o f eac h ban d wa s plante d its standard. The y were mountaineers, the descendents of men who, during three centuries, had fough t fo r independence, an d the y i n turn had bound about thei r heads th e blac k handkerchief s o f rebellion ; rebellio n agains t the injustic e o f Turkish rule. Rifles cracke d fro m th e loophole s o f Malax a an d burst s o f smoke ra n the lengt h o f the wall , bu t i n vain; , for th e eigh t centimete r gun s o f th e insurgents wer e ou t o f rifl e range . Thes e gun s wer e hidde n fro m th e sight o f the foreigner s in Suda Ba y by a hig h mound . Jumpin g bac k an d toppling drunkenl y on on e wheel , the y battere d awa y a t th e thi n bac k wall of the block-house. Th e foreig n monster s loungin g o n th e smoot h bed of Suda, seein g onl y the fron t o f For t Malaxa , wer e blind , an d i n those days tha t precede d th e Greco-Turkis h wa r no one paid any attention to a fusillad e i n the hills . Onl y th e Creta n insurgent s an d th e besiege d garrison kne w how seriou s the figh t was . On the day befor e th e admiral s ha d sen t a messag e t o th e Creta n chiefs sayin g tha t th e Grea t Powers , sinc e the y ha d no t allowe d th e Turks t o sen d reinforcement s to Crete , woul d no t permit the insurgent s to occupy th e Turkis h block-houses i n th e circl e o f hills . Th e answe r ha d been thi s unseen attack o n Malaxa .

(1 3) The pla n was made o n th e nigh t befor e a t a barbecu e given to th e Cretan chief s b y Constantin e Mano , th e leade r o f th e Sacre d Legion . Mano was an Athenian, a graduat e o f Oxford , reade r t o th e Empres s o f Austria, a dilletant e in literature and a dabbler in sports. H e ha d com e t o Crete t o join in the insurrectio n against th e hate d Turks , jus t as hi s fathe r had don e befor e hi m and as many young Greek blood s used to do . Man o had gathere d abou t hi m th e bes t fightin g me n o f the mountains . The y were tall men , straight o f limb and lith e of body. The y wen t ove r th e hill s with th e eas e of mountain goats. M y nationalit y brought me the plac e of scribe t o th e band . Oh , th e freedo m o f lif e o f th e Sacre d Legion ^ fighting in th e earl y morning, , feasting a t night , plungin g i n th e col d mountain streams , sleepin g unde r th e star s o n th e moon-floode d hills! At th e feas t a counci l o f war wa s held . Th e questio n was settled i n short order . Th e admiral s wer e usurpin g power. Th e Christia n nations of the eart h woul d no t preven t th e Creta n Christian s fro m drivin g th e heathen Tur k into the sea . Malax a shoul d b e attacke d o n the following morning. Then , unde r the flare of the torche s they place d a sheep roasted whole o n the table . I n re d win e we toasted th e Grea t Republi c an d th e little island ; liberty , equality, fraternit y o r death . W e lef t th e boar d t o take ou r position s for the figh t o n th e morrow . For hour s the spasmodi c fusillad e fro m th e for t wa s answered by th e regular discharg e o f the mountai n guns , which a t las t bore d throug h th e wall o f th e block-house . Shell s coul d b e see n burstin g o n th e inside . The insurgents , the Sacre d Legio n alway s i n th e front , dre w close r an d closer thei r half circle. O n on e side, where the hil l pitched sharpl y dow n towards Sud a Bay , the for t ha d bee n lef t uninveste d by th e insurgent s who wished t o kee p ou t o f sight of the foreig n fleet . Suddenl y the fire from th e loopholes redoubled . Th e doo r o f the for t swun g open . A great shou t went u p fro m al l the Cretans . Ou t o f the openin g a doze n soldier s i n blue uniforms an d re d feze s plunge d forward . Ben

t doubl e the y ra n fo r th e

edge o f the hil l only fifty fee t away . Woul d the y reac h it ? Th e Creta n rifles popped lik e cor n ove r a ho t fire . Th e Turk s fell , on e after another ,

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until onl y three remaine d t o thro w themselve s ove r th e brin k an d find safety i n the valle y below. Two hours passed. I

looke d fro m th e moun d where I sat , dow n on

the valley with its coo l verdure of oliv e and orang e trees , ove r th e smoot h quiet o f Suda Ba y and ou t t o th e ocea n blu e tha t fade d int o the golde n mist o f th e ^Egean . Her e wa s a pictur e o f undisturbe d peace. N o re d line o f Turkish feze s cam e windin g amon g th e oliv e groves , n o unusua l movement wa s perceptible aboard th e me n o f war . Wit h shell s burstin g within an d ammunitio n dwindlin g th e block-hous e wa s fas t becomin g untenable. I n vai n th e bugle r o f th e garriso n trumpete d fo r help . Quarter wa s neve r aske d o r give n betwee n Christia n an d Mosle m i n Crete. Wa s th e garriso n t o fal l victi m t o Turkis h slot h an d Europea n indifference ? A secon d shou t fro m th e Cretan s dre w m y attentio n t o th e block house. Ther e floatin g besid e th e Turkis h fla g I -sa w a whit e cloth . Malaxa ha d surrendered ! I n a n instan t ever y Creta n wa s o n hi s fee t an d running towards the block-house . M y "striker, " o r rathe r ma n a t arms , dropped m y belonging s an d disappeared . I picke d .u p m y overcoat , cameras, field glasses, wate r bottle and sabertash , an d hangin g the m about me, like present s o n a Christma s tree, followed. The crow d packed abou t the for t wer e no w visibl e from Suda . O n this howling mass the thre e Turkis h gunboat s in the bay opene d fire ; but , owing t o thei r fea r o f hittin g th e block-house , the y sho t high . Alread y some o f the insurgent s had climbe d the wall s of the for t an d were thrusting their rifle s throug h th e loop-holes . I t seems tha t whe n th e Turkis h majo r saw the excite d insurgent s coming h e mad e up his mind to kee p the m out . On thei r side , th e Cretans , maddene d a t th e refusa l t o admi t the m afte r the whit e flag had bee n raised , wante d t o brea k i n the door . Mano , wit h the Sacre d Legion , wishin g to sav e th e live s o f th e garrison , stoo d a t th e still closed doo r betwee n th e Cretan s an d th e panic-stricke n Turkis h com mander, trying to argu e wit h both. Th e shell s from th e Turkish gunboat s came about tw o to th e minute; and as they passe d wit h the whirrin g soun d of a great saw cutting the lengt h o f a log , th e shoutin g mo b were dum b

(1 4)

and bowe d in low silence. Forthwit h they ros e again , shouting , jostling , trying to driv e Mano from th e door . The situatio n was desperate. Eac h momen t th e insurgents , becam e more unmanageable . Mano' s eye , i n search o f some expedient , wandere d over th e turbulen t hord e an d b y chanc e fel l o n m e standin g apart . H e beckoned. I t looke d lik e an impossibl e road t o travel, but as if by common consent stron g arm s shove d m e along. Befor e I kne w i t I wa s standin g by Mano' s side . . The hubbu b wa s s o great tha t although Man o shoute d I coul d not mak e ou t wha t he said . The n on e o f thos e silence-bringin g shells passe d ove r us . I n th e lul l h e said : "We shal l all get kille d if this keeps up . Se e wha t you ca n d o wit h that ol d fossi l inside. " The pinched , white fac e o f the Turkis h major wa s pressed agains t th e bars o f the wicke t in the door . I go t a s clos e t o th e openin g as I coul d and waite d for a lull . I t wa s unpleasan t speakin g wit h thos e shell s buzzing ove r head . Th e majo r seeme d t o find confidence i n th e presenc e o f a foreigner. " Why don't yo u open the door? " I shouted. " If yo u hesitate any longer the y wil l shoot yo u through th e loopholes. " "Won't we be killed any way ? " h e asked . "This ma n and his followers," pointin g to Mano , " will d o what they can t o sav e you. " "Shall I ope n the door ? " "Yes." " I'll le t you two in." The bolt s wer e draw n and the doo r opene d just wide enough t o admit us both . Man o disarme d th e Turks , stacke d thei r rifle s nea r th e doo r

and place d the prisoner s at th e furthe r en d o f the enclosure . " You stan d in front o f them wit h your revolver, " h e said . Then h e opene d th e doo r an d calle d i n abou t twent y o f the Creta n chiefs. Ther e was some wranglin g about precedent, but , o n th e whole , matters wen t smoothl y enough . Th e chief s divide d the rifle s an d hande d them ou t to their followers . I

looke d abou t me. Ther e wer e a number

(1 5) of Turkish dead lai d ou t alon g on e o f th e walls . Abou t hal f of the gar rison o f two hundred men were wounded . A captai n wit h a bandage ove r one eye rolle d a cigarett e an d offere d i t t o m e wit h an attemp t a t non chalance. Th e ol d major stood ver y clos e an d nodde d fro m tim e to tim e with wha t was intende d fo r a pleasan t smile . Th e live s o f th e garriso n had bee n saved. Everythin g wa s goin g of f splendidly. Alas , i t was th e lull befor e th e storm . Ther e i s i n ever y gatherin g o f me n on e wh o i s born t o d o th e wron g thing . Som e foolis h Cretan , swelle d wit h th e conceit o f ignoran t patriotism , wen t u p o n th e roof , pulle d dow n th e Turkish fla g an d replace d i t wit h a Gree k one . W e o n the insid e did not know of this incident , but th e admiral s a t Sud a Ba y knew . The y di d not inten d to hav e thei r order s disobeye d an d whe n the y sa w the Gree k flag waving over th e block-hous e the y sen t a messenge r mor e persuasiv e than their first one. I t cam e upo n u s unexpectedl y an d combine d th e qualities o f an earthquak e an d a thunderbolt. I wa s afterwards told that it was a milinit e shel l fro m a Frenc h battleship . I t struc k th e corne r o f the block-house an d a t th e sam e tim e ever y nerv e i n the bod y o f every ma n there. Fo r m y part , I coul d neithe r thin k no r move . I wa s vividly conscious, however , that ever y Tur k wh o coul d ge t hol d ha d a gri p on my clothe s an d tha t th e majo r wa s expostulatin g wit h m e o n accoun t of thi s ne w calamit y fo r which , i n som e strang e way , h e hel d m e responsible. The smok e cleare d enoug h t o sho w tha t n o Cretan s remaine d i n th e fort. Wit h tha t pervers e insistanc e o n detai l characteristi c o f a min d overcome b y shoc k I notice d tha t th e shel l ha d cu t th e corne r o f the fort lik e a knife and that blue sky was visible through the smoke. Al l these events occupie d onl y a few seconds o f time ; the n thunderbol t succeede d thunderbolt. Th e minute s following cannot be described. Th e en d of the world coul d not be mor e terrible than th e concentrate d fire of a larg e fleet on a lon e block-house . Dust-lade n smok e choke d th e air . Splinter s flew, beams fell , piece s o f wall cave d in . A pandemoniu m of noise crashe d in terror-giving dissonance . How long i t was before th e ide a tha t drive s t o actio n cam e I d o no t

(1 6) know, but o f one accord w e started t o ge t out . Th e Turk s stil l clun g t o my clothing . Forgetfu l o f any obligatio n I wa s unde r to. protect them, I vainly trie d t o ge t away . Togethe r w e ra n stumblin g throug h th e smothering darknes s fo r the door . W e passe d ou t o f th e for t whil e th e shells wer e breaking in the wal l abov e us . I n th e smok e w e fel l ove r some lifeles s bodies , picked ourselve s u p an d ra n a s w e ha d neve r ru n before toward s the mountain s and safety . By this time I ha d shake n of f al l th e Turk s excep t th e major , who held fas t t o wha t wa s lef t o f my coat . Curiousl y enough, h e di d no t see m to dela y m y progress. O n an d on w e ran , awa y fro m tha t hell, unti l th e body coul d go no more. W e stoppe d and looke d back . A heav y concen tration o f smoke hi d the ruin s of th e block-house . Occasional , shells tha t missed th e mar k flew by, bu t thes e no w seemed insignificant . Ou t o f the cloud o f smoke cam e what was left o f the Turkis h garrison , a sprintin g lin e of blu e uniforms . Th e humo r of the situatio n brought relief . I

laughe d

hysterically; th e majo r nodde d wit h disconsolat e solemnity ; th e captai n with th e woun d over hi s eye sa t down and rolle d a cigarette .

(1 7)

A Nigh t a t Death' s Door . When a man really make s u p his mind that h e wil l b e dea d withi n a few hours , living become s a matter o f ver y littl e importance . I t i s a fac t that there i s a strang e calmnes s and lac k o f anxiety as a result of this condi tion of mind. The experienc e whic h I a m goin g t o relat e too k plac e a t Leec h Lake, Minnesota , in October, 1898 . I accompanie d a company of United States soldier s to the India n reservatio n an d w e wer e surrounde d o n a point o f land forty mile s from the agency. Th e littl e clearin g i n which th e fighting too k plac e wa s scarcely te n acres i n extent . I t wa s surrounde d on three side s b y heav y timbe r an d underbrush , while on the fourt h sid e was the lake . The Indian s wer e i n th e underbrus h and althoug h ou r littl e ban d of seventy soldier s ha d fough t stubbornl y all da y an d ha d los t nin e killed, , including Capt . Wilkinso n wh o wa s i n command , an d fourtee n severel y wounded, they ha d been unabl e to dislodge th e Indians . There was a log hut, abou t twelv e fee t square , i n th e cente r o f th e clearing an d a t dus k we moved int o that , while the soldier s du g trenche s around it . Durin g the night , which was bitterly cold , the soldier s were on duty i n reliefs i n the trenches , while the res t o f us remaine d i n th e house . It is of that nigh t that I am going t o tell . The lo g house , th e abod e o f an ol d Indian , was dirty and il l smelling . We carried the bodie s of th e dea d int o th e hous e an d lai d the m i n on e corner. Th e wounde d wer e place d i n anothe r corne r an d everythin g possible was done for them, bu t th e lac k o f medicines and appliance s mad e it impossible to assist them to any great extent. After al l ha d bee n don e t o mak e ou r positio n mor e secur e an d torem comfortabl e Gen . Bacon , commande r o f th e department , wh o

(1 8)

had accompanied th e expeditio n a s a spectator , Lieut . Ross , on who m the comman d devolve d afte r th e deat h o f Capt . Wilkinson , thre e news paper me n and a n old sergean t wh o ha d been i n a scor e o f Indian fights , held a conference . I t wa s the mos t seriou s conferenc e I eve r too k par t in. The resul t o f it was that al l carrT e solemnl y to th e conclusio n tha t ou r use fulness, eithe r a s soldier s o r correspondents , wa s a t a n end * W e wer e evidently greatl y outnumbered ; ou r me n were nearl y al l ra w recruits , th e Indians wer e wel l hidden an d coul d no t be dislodge d and , wors t o f all, ou r ammunition wa s almos t gone . I t wa s hundreds o f mile s t o the neares t military post and hel p fro m there , a t leas t hel p i n time to be o f an y us e t o us, was ou t o f th e question . Whil e w e wer e discussin g th e chance s o f escape, a bullet cam e through th e window , an d after passin g through Gen . Bacon's ha t imbedde d itsel f in the wall . Tha t settle d it . It isn' t ofte n tha t me n fin d themselve s i n a mor e desperat e position . HYe coul d hold ou t bu t a fe w hour s longe r an d whe n th e Indian s shoul d make* their attac k a t daybreak , a s is their usua l custom , escap e woul d b e impossible. We didn' t tal k muc h afte r that—ther e wasn' t anythin g t o say. W e stretched ourselve s o n the floor and thought. Th e hu t wa s dark and cold. From on e corner cam e th e moan s o f a soldier sho t throug h th e bod y wh o was dying all too slowly. Fro m the wood s cam e th e cras h o f the Winches ters, answered by th e crack s o f th e Krag s i n the trenches . Th e bullet s came like dul l thuds agains t th e lo g wall s o f the hu t an d ever y fe w minutes sounded th e low , wierd yel l o f th e Indians , th e wa r whoop , tha n whic h there is no more hair-raisin g soun d mad e by ma n or beast . Every soun d adde d t o th e assuranc e tha t w e wer e a s good a s dead men. I mad e u p my mind , as did th e others , tha t i t was only a matte r of a fe w hours . Bu t th e wors t though t o f al l wa s tha t w e woul d b e subjected t o th e horribl e mutilation s whic h w e ha d al l see n before , and which , havin g onc e seen , n o ma n ca n forget . T o b e kille d is on e thin g ; t o hav e wha t i s lef t o f yo u hacke d t o piece s i n the mos t horrible manne r possible i s quite another . I wa s cold, tired, hungry and ver y thirst y an d i t wa s no t lon g befor e

(1 9)

nature cam e to the rescue . I wen t to sleep . Whe n Lieut . Ros s arouse d me t o tel l m e tha t daw n wa s approachin g an d tha t I ha d bette r tak e a gun an d g o into th e trenches , I foun d tha t I wa s reposing comfortabl y with m y head o n a sergeant' s knees an d m y fee t o n a brigadier general' s chest. Bu t the y di d no t see m to worr y about it . Daylight came at last , bu t fo r an hour before there wa s no firin g fro m the woods . Th e expecte d attac k did not materialize; why, none of us have ever bee n abl e t o discover . Ha d w e bee n attacke d w e would, withou t doubt have all been killed, for there was less tha n 10 0 rounds of ammunition left fo r the entir e party . Durin g th e da y ther e wa s a n occasiona l sho t from th e wood s an d on e soldie r who venture d out fro m cove r wa s killed and another wa s wounded . Lat e tha t afternoo n w e wer e reinforce d b y a party <, f woodsmen who cam e by boa t fro m th e agency . A

fe w days late r

the Indian s came in, gave themselve s u p and the inciden t was closed . But th e event s o f tha t nigh t i n th e ol d log hous e an d th e rin g o f those Indian yells wil l remain in my memor y as long a s memor y lasts .

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( 21 )

A Battl e Wit h th e Waves . As m y experiences hav e not yet extende d to.th e battlefield, this bein g my first war, I mus t perforc e writ e o f other tha n warlik e matters , an d have chose n fo r m y narrativ e a battle fo r lif e i n th e sur f o n th e coas t o f the Souther n Pacific . About th e yea r 188 9 o r 189 0 I wa s i n Australia , livin g a t a littl e 'seaside townshi p nea r Sydney , o n the shore s o f the beautifu l harbou r of Port Jackson . I t i s said t o hav e bee n the plac e wher e Captai n Coo k firs t landed, and h e gav e th e plac e it s nam e o f Manl y Beach i n honour o f the manly spiri t shewn b y a black, wh o stoo d alone , lik e Horatiu s o f old, t o oppose th e landin g of th e foreigners , whe n all his fello w brave s ha d fle d and hidden themselves in the bush . The mai n part o f thi s tow n stand s o n a narro w stri p o f land , onl y about a quarter of a mile wide, between th e harbou r and the ocean , joining the Nort h Hea d o f Port Jackso n t o th e mainlan d extendin g roun d th e opposite sid e o f th e harbour . 1 wa s i n the habi t o f takin g a mornin g dip dail y i n .th e sur f o n th e ocea n beach , an d i t wa s i n th e autum n of the yea r named abov e tha t m y fondnes s fo r a bat h nearl y cos t m e m y life. There ha d bee n a tremendou s stor m whic h ha d stoppe d steame r traffic betwee n u s an d Sydney , an d ha d effectuall y prevente d al l bathing i n th e ocea n surf , th e wave s bein g a sigh t onl y to b e viewe d from a saf e distance . A fe w day s later , w rhen th e se a seeme d t o hav e resumed its normal state , I thought I woul d re-commence m y bathing; s o with fou r boy s wh o were unde r my care I sallie d ou t to th e beac h abou t 6 £. in., and we too k ou r plunge . A s I ha d onl y latel y recovere d fro m a Serious illness and wa s still rather weak , I soo n cam e ou t o f the water , an d had drie d and got on part o f my clothes whe n I hear d a cry: " V. is being

( 2 2 )

carried ou t t o sea!" V . was a yout h o f 17 , nearly m y own size , who I knew coul d onl y swi m a few strokes , an d sur e enoug h wa s ou t o f hi s depth, bobbing helplessly u p and down , an d every.secon d draw n farthe r from th e shore . I tore of f m y clothe s an d rushe d in , feelin g th e wate r strike ver y chil l as I entere d it . I n a few strokes I reache d th e yout h an d caught th e han d held ou t to me . The n th e struggl e began . I fel t th e strong under-curren t a s I turne d shorewards , an d m y charg e ha d n o idea o f raising-himsel f flat on th e surfac e o f the waves , which would hav e impelled u s shorewards, bu t hun g hi s legs straigh t dow n and wa s pulled outwards by the under-tow . By dint of har d struggling , an d watchin g m y tim e for eac h effort , I got hi m i n a litttl e neare r afte r som e minutes' har d wor k ; but I fel t m y strength goin g wit h th e col d an d th e fierc e buffetin g o f the breakers , an d knew I coul d not bear hi s weight much longer . Stil l w e progressed , bu t as we got neare r shore th e forc e o f the under-to w increased , and suddenl y a bigge r wav e tha n befor e brok e righ t ove r u s and th e forc e o f its impact parted us , V. bein g sucked unde r in the back-wash, an d I carrie d forward on the cres t o f the wave . I wa s jus t awar e o f th e separation , an d the n I fel t consciousnes s giving way. I looked up , saw dimly th e roof s o f th e tow n whic h I fel t I should neve r enter again , trie d t o give on e las t despairin g strok e fo r selfpreservation, and then knew no more till I found myself Hurled o n the beach and diggin g m y hand s i n th e sand . Onc e more I swooned, then anothe r wave drov e me higher up , and I lay I kno w not how long unconscious, till the voices of the othe r boys on shore aroused me and I struggle d t o m y fee t only to fall agai n a limp heap. The n my mind began t o work , and I aske d for V . "H e has been carrie d ou t to se a and w e ca n no longer se e him. " Can anyon e pictur e th e agon y o f tha t moment ? Her e wa s I saf e on shore , an d the yout h committe d t o m y car e wa s drowne d an d hi s body carrie d ou t for the shark s t o feas t on . Ho w coul d I eve r fac e hi s parents an d tell them th e stor y ? Ho w coul d I eve r explai n th e workin g of that dreade d under-to w ? Woul d the y no t thin k I ha d faile d i n th e hour of danger an d lef t thei r so n to hi s fat e i n order basely to sav e my own

( 2. 3 )

life ? Why had not I been drowned too ? Far better so than beaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa the boy dead. Thoughts suc h as thes e crowde d throug h m y brain , whe n a shout came: * 'There he is! " I t seeme d m y effort s had , after all , not bee n quite in . vain. I had got him into a n inne r curren t and h e ha d bee n carrie d dow n along-the beach som e 10 0 yard s pas t us . Ther e wa s hope , then , yet. What a revulsion of feeling! Bu t wha t w-a s t o b e don e ? Th e thre e othe r boys stood helples s nea r me , stupefied . N o on e was in sight to help . I rose. I tried to run , but fell , bein g stil l too wea k fro m th e buffetin g I ha d received. " Run, get ropes , ge t help! " I crie d wildly in my despair. Bu t houses were far off, and th e boy s onl y ra n aimlessl y alon g th e beach—tw o of them, that i s ; th e eldest , a big, strappin g yout h o f 17, taller than myself , stayed wit h me . "C., " sai d I t o him , "yo u mus t go i n with me an d hel p me haul V. out." Hi s onl y reply wa s that I wa s unfi t t o ente r th e wate r again. I knew it was a desperat e expedient , a s C . could not swim , and w e might both perish withou t savin g V . Bu t i t wa s th e onl y chance ; if we joined hands we might battl e wit h the breaker s an d togethe r hau l him out . We starte d off , but I fel l tw o o r thre e times , an d I sa w C.' s fac e quiver. H e though t i t madness , bu t wen t pluckil y forwar d withou t a word. Suddenl y appeared a ma n comin g dow n to his dip, all unconscious of ou r trouble . I calle d o n hi m fo r help, tellin g hi m ou r stor y briefly . "I cannot swim," he said, "we mus t send fo r other help. " "I t will be too late,"was m y reply ; "we three wil l join hands, and togethe r w e can accom plish our purpose." H e gav e rather reluctan t consent, and w £ mad e for V., who wa s now fairl y clos e in , stil l bobbin g helplessl y u p an d down , bu t apparently stil l conscious . Ou r new-foun d frien d no w graspe d th e stat e of affairs, an d wa s as kee n a s myself . H e insiste d o n taking firs t place , I followed an d C . brought up the rear . Firml y we clasped hand s an d enter ed the wave s ; no w we wer e nea r ou r half-drowne d man, an d in anothe r moment ou r fron t ma n ha d graspe d hi s arm nea r th e shoulde r wit h hi s disengaged hand . "Steady , all together, one, two , three, " he roared, as a huge rolle r broke ove r us . I fel t th e strain , we staggered , but hel d firm, and with one mor e pul l and a fe w steps shorewards we were in safety. W e

(* 4 )

fad conquere d the waveban d accomplished ou r task . In a few minutes we had V . lyin g on the beac h ; h e ha d swallowe d a good dea l o f wate r an d ha d a nast y tim e o f it , bu t ha d scarcel y bee n &ut of his dept h sinc e I ha d give n hi m my firs t to w shor e wards, and i n a few days h e had recovere d fro m hi s immersion. Bu t i t had bee n a clos e call fo r us both, an d ther e ha d bee n mor e than on e exciting moment in our struggle suc h as I do not particularly wish to experience again .

C2 5)

Michaels, o f Michaelma s Bay . To m e thi s stor y ha s been interesting , for , i n hi s way , Michael s carried his " message t o Garcia." We ha d bee n a mont h o r s o "o n th e job/ ' a s th e sayin g was , (meaning th e Spanis h war) , steamin g fro m on e Wes t India n por t t o another—the port dependin g upon how riva l despatch boat s wer e headin g with the issu e of the day' s operations . W e ha d t o la y ou r cours e fo r th e place where we could be sur e of a clea r wir e to Ne w York . One stor y afternoo n w e sa w th e " Triton " trailin g smok e i n th e direction of Port Antonio , and the " Corsair " makin g fo r Kingston , an d the " Golden Brick " stealing u p the Cuba n coast to Guantanamo , an d the lubberly " Three Friend s "—she ha d a gai t lik e a bear—pounding hard for Samcina . Al l thi s mean t tha t a t thes e points cable s woul d be occu pied, and w e would be shu t out unti l every paper but our s had printe d th e story of the day . " We might g o to Panama," suggested Stephe n Crane , " or "—with kindling imagination—-" to Martinique. " " Haven't go t the coal," said the Captain , measuring distances . " There's Michaelmas Bay in Hayti; can't yo u make tha t to-nigh t ? " " Never bee n u p tha t way , an d I don' t see m t o have th e lights or soundings.'7 " Never mind," Cran e put in, "We'll trust you not to ' collide ' wit h the island. " " There's a revolution starting in Hayti— " " There always is," w e interrupted. Looking to see if we were serious , th e skippe r then turned , an d ran g " full stea m ahead." H e ha d a delicate tast e fo r adventure himself. Night fell black an d furious ; and the sea s playe d roughl y wit h ou r

C2 6 ) little pilo t boa t fro m th e Florid a Keys ; s o that, writing 5in the cabin , an erratic pencil in one hand, we had t o clin g fas t wit h the othe r t o th e edg e of the table . Finally w e turned in, knees pressed agains t th e sid e o f the berth , t o guard agains t bein g tosse d out . Nea r midnigh t I fel t mysel f pushed , pulled, and pounded, and heard Crane' s voic e calling : " Wake up !Don't you wan t to se e a ship climb a mountain ?" On dec k on e go t a strange impression . Clos e abov e wa s a dee p purple ^ky^ it s gold star s seeming , fo r sleep-fille d eyes , scarcel y highe r than the mastheads . Th e weathe r had cleared; there wa s now that perfec t tranquility which settles so ofte n ove r southern latitudes. In the smoot h water wa s reflecte d darkl y an d distinctl y th e mountai n tha t back s th e harbour o f Michaelmas, and i t did indeed appea r tha t th e ship' s forefoo t was on the ascent , moving up the stee p Mol e itself . Anchor chain s suddenly rattled, an d the Captai n jocularly called , a s if he wer e lockin g a Cone y Islan d steamer , " All ashore, who are goin g ashore." W e droppe d over sid e quit e a s w e ha d com e fro m ou r bunks, in pyjamas and yachting shoes , a little wad o f mone y an d a shea f of telegrams i n our handkerchie f pockets. I n plac e of the mirage. , we now discerned ahead a leve l beach . Al l a t onc e ther e flare d u p a ro w o f crimson watch-fires. Od d huma n figures passed an d repassed . We ha d t o wad e ashore . Th e figure s wer e i n military costume— thirteen o f them> every unifor m ragge d an d different ; som e from th e Napo leonic era, some fro m th e reig n o f Georg e Third ; on e had th e tasselle d helmet o f th e Kaiser' s Hussars , severa l th e fore-and-af t dress-ha t o f Admirals. A H bore guns , and most were barefoot. Th e fireligh t showe d them as black as the nigh t itself . They surrounded us, arrested us ; marche d u s u p a mudd y street . An abrupt order cam e to halt. Soldier s wit h torches wer e groupe d abou t a lon g cannon , and we, as it happened, wer e alon e i n front o f it , scarcel y two fee t fro m the muzzle . Revplution i n Hayt i an d w e abou t to act i n another Sepo y scene— •

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that was .the firs t fleetin g impression of this precarious situation. "We're reall y no t dresse d fo r charades, " protested Crane . "Sto p tire show and tak e u s to th e cabl e office. " We wer e carrie d on , an d .finall y t o th e Governor' s thatch-hu t of a palace, wher e we were placed in chairs b y a tabl e covere d wit h oilclot h such a s you ma y se e in New Englan d far m kitchens . There wa s a ladder leading to th e attic . Sound s o f scuffling, th e ring of spur s on the floor above, an d then a shinin g boot an d a red trousere d leg, an d a n embroidered coat tail , an d a gil t sword , an d a t las t heav y shoulders, epaulettes, cocke d hat,—-an d the Governo r ha d descended , back towards us. His officia l suite , al l black lik e himself, followed. The y sat abou t a s if upo n a drum head court-martial , and heard th e report . The Governo r asked : i f Wh y d o yo u invad e m y provinc e a t night?" A ligh t of understanding broke ove r hi s face whe n he hear d tha t w e were simpl y attempting to invade a cabl e office . " Ah, you know M'sieu Michaels ?" he enquired . " Yes, ye s ; our friend. Bu t we'll see him in the morning . To-nigh t we desire to go to the cable. " He reache d int o th e pocke t o f the tai l o f his embroidere d coat, an d brought fort h a pack o f cards. H e sprea d the m upo n th e tabl e wit h a sweep of the hand . " Low deals/' I suggested; and we, the prisoners, eac h dre w one . " No, no, Messieurs," proteste d th e Governor . It presently appeare d tha t h e wante d u s t o purchas e th e pack . Casually counting the cards w e foun d ther e wer e onl y 51 , bu t di d no t mention it, and offere d som e money . H e pushe d i t back, " Jamb on" h e explained ; " have yo u not American ham aboard shi p ? M'sie u Michaels , he say get ham. " " Michaels needs foo d ?" The poo r cha p was perhaps iniiunger in this al l bu t forsake n blac k place. " Take us to him. Yes , w e have plenty ham. "

(. 2 8 )

Torches Wer e relit' ; th e guar d le d th e wa y past scattere d thatche d huts, an d u p th e stair s o f the singl e tw o storey building , an d opene d a door. Th e moonligh t showe d thre e me n stretche d asleep . " Who is that ?" cam e fro m one . A t th e reply , he leape d u p and struck a light, and grasped ou r hands . I t wa s Michaels . H e wa s yellow , lean , haggard . There wer e two bottles o f Vermouth di Torino o n the washstand , beside s an empt y bottle marke d " quinine/' an d an empty bo x marked "calomel. " " God, bu t you've take n you r tim e abou t coming! " sai d Michaels He bega n pourin g out som e vermouth . "I di d no t eve r reall y believ e thoug h tha t th e offic e woul d let me die here/' We waited , uncomprehending . " You can't hel p having hard thought s yo u see, i n a place lik e this — just a few huts on a hillside, only niggers aroun d you,—except thes e two French cabl e operators , an d th e Governor' s hal f whit e son,—an d th e whole settlemen t struc k wit h yello w fever . Ever y mornin g when I ge t up•'%—he went to the casemen t an d pointed—" I loo k ou t here, an d I se e one mor e poor body being borne in a wheelbarrow to a little raw hole the y have dug i n the hillside . I t ha s go t o n m y nerves . Medicin e out ; n o ships comin g in , foo d scarce , an d m y last $2o, m y last cent , wen t fo r that messag e t o the Manage r telling hi m he must sen d a boat fo r m e o r Fd be a goner. However , it' s over. Her e you are. I wish I had some thing bette r tha n vermout h t o offe r you , bu t it' s goo d fo r th e fever . You're Crane , ar e yo u ? Ho w lon g hav e yo u bee n wit h m y pape r ?"" Crane wa s not with his paper ; neithe r wa s I; an d the on e our boa t belonged t o wa s i n fierc e rivalr y wit h that o f Michaels. No w w e wer e bound an d pledge d neve r t o giv e transportatio n t o correspondent s o f competing journals . W e looke d a t eac h other . W e explaine d tha t we were no t th e succorer s h e expected ; tha t ou r boa t wa s th e Planet's boat. Michaels*lips parte d wit h somethin g lik e misgiving ; w e could see his wretched depressio n returning . " But we'r e goin g t o give you a lift/! w e added; an d his eye s lit u p

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again. "No w wak e you r friend s th e telegraphers , an d hel p u s file our despatches/' The sleepin g figures on- the floo r wer e -rolled ove r and aroused . They le d us, th e torc h bearer s accompanying , throug h bramble s and cheparral t o th e littl e corrugate d zin c cable-hous e solitar y o n a knoll— solitary i n a place o f solitude, yet i n instant touch, through a wis p o f wires from instrument s on a side table , wit h the lovel y huma n settlements o i th e world. It wa s in instant touch ; but whe n Halifax was called upo n t o receiv e 800 words for New York , Halifa x responded tha t it would no t undertak e anything s o lon g a t night . W e woul d hav e t o wai t until the da y shif t of operators 6 hours later. W e bega n t o rage. Thereupon Michael s said— " Leave you r stuf f wit h me . I can' t g o awav wit h you , an d I'l l se e tha t i t is started a t 8 in the morning. " H e thrust his hands in his pockets, the n h e pulle d the m out . Th e ol d franti c despondency was back . " But, man , you'r e dyin g her e breat h b y breath, " w e objected . " The plac e i s torturin g yo u int o a hole i n that hillside . You'v e go t t o come." A loo k I'v e neve r see n befor e an d that I ca n scarcel y describ e cam e over hi s face—th e sor t o f look , I fancy , tha t Hubbar d wor e whe n hi s companions had t o abandon him i n th e wild s o f Labrador , wit h nothin g left t o subsist on but a pair of moccasins. There was this difference . I n Labrado r th e ma n was too wea k fro m starvation to mov e farther; a t Michaelma s Bay the ma n was far gone wit h fret an d nerves, and feve r an d loneliness ; h e insiste d o n stayin g becaus e his offic e ha d no t itsel f released him. He cam e ou t t o th e shi p wit h us . W e gav e hi m ham , an d w e gave hi m potatoe s an d orange s an d whisky . Thes e w e ha d t o sen d ashore i n a separat e boat . Al l h e aske d fo r or would take himself , wa s a bag of North Carolin a tobacco He did not die . When , afte r a despairin g wait , he obtaine d

(3 0 ) a transfer , an d returne d t o Ne w York , hi s offic e dismisse d .him . I don' t know why excep t tha t i t wa s som e smal l matte r o f unnecessar y expenses suc h a % I suppose , spendin g twent y dollar s gol d t o as k fo r relief*

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Fifteen Hour s Unde r Fire . This is the stor y o f a day i n the mids t o f a littl e war i n the island s of a little people . General Schwa n wit h an expeditionary brigad e wa s scorching his wa y down through th e souther n provinces of Luzon, encountering no pronounced shock s o f battle, but a constan t an d irritatin g fire fro m remot e hill s an d jungle shelters . I remembe r bes t o f all the fourt h da y o f th e campaig n ; and th e recollection s re-form themselve s now much i n the sam e words that made u p m y lette r fro m th e field. The infantr y outfit s wer e emergin g fro m a nightcamp at Binan , wher e an odo r of gutte r sewerag e ha d mingle d with the scen t of roses. A mis t of pearl an d pin k wa s waverin g in the coo l o f morning over Lagun a d e Bay , and liftin g fro m th e hill s beyond . Fro m th e hea d o f th e colum n there tumbled a series of commands, which halted the infantr y an d shove d i t asid e to allo w Colone l Hayes and his Fourth Cavalr y to take th e lead . I butted my pony , a ra g o f a beas t an d a discard, in among th e sharpshooter s o f the cavalr y advanc e ; an d on e dusty troope r foun d occasio n to remar k tha t I would be toting m y mount before night . Mid forenoon, fou r hour s afterward! A blisterin g highway whic h los t itself in brown, baking hill s ; throat s stick y fro m whit e dus t an d th e air' s scorch; naked , imperiou s nerve s fro m th e unsee n an d unceasin g fire ! The trooper s sa t tight i n the saddle , sav e th e on e o r tw o i n eac h outfi t who carrie d n o arms, clung to the mane s o f thei r mounts , an d wer e hel d from lurchin g downward by th e hand s o f their fellows . A hundre d yard s ahead , a Filipin o scurrie d lik e a rabbi t icros s the trail , dragging hi s Remington , but t down . Te n fee t t o m y righ t a carbine crashed . Th e nativ e sprawled , shaking . W e gallope d forward . he stee l fro m th e Kra g had entere d th e Filipino' s chest . Hi s fac e wa s

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turned upward . A lighte d cigarett e stil l adhere d t o hi s lips, and a bubbl e filled wit h th e smok e o f a las t inhalatio n broke a t th e mout h of the woun d as we watched. Someon e laughed unnaturally . Th e word s formed curses . No one claimed the shot . Mid afternoo n an d scarcel y a halt! Th e insurgent s had deserte d th e foul, bi g tow n of Silang b y the time w e reached there . Ever y ma n praye d that th e day' s marc h wa s ended , but prayer s availe d no t no r ou r dream s of coffee an d bacon. Colone l Hayes did not even dismount at Silang and w e had scarcel y tim e t o unbuckl e a haversack befor e th e trumpete r screame d " Forward ! " Between Silan g an d Indan g ther e ar e fiftee n ravine s an d a s man y ranges o f rocky hills . W e bega n th e firs t ascen t i n a crushin g pressure o f afternoon heat . Meanwhile , I ha d dragge d bac k t o th e fourt h troop , and wa s bendin g unde r th e curse s o f th e cavalryme n becaus e m y staggering pon y cluttere d the way . Ther e wa s a jam o f men an d horse s in on e o f th e ravine s an d i t becam e necessar y fo r th e fourt h troo p to hal t o n a dow n grade . I remembe r tha t I wa s profitin g b y th e interval t o swa b ou t the mout h of my pony, whe n a trooper standin g jus t before m e at th e hea d o f his mount, was struck to the trail . H e ha d bee n holding a fille d cantee n i n one hand . Th e bulle t pierce d th e ri m o f th e vessel and entered the man's abdomen. A s his head sank forwar d it seeme d that hi s eyes wer e fascinate d b y the wate r spurtin g fro m th e hol e i n th e canteen, which ha d droppe d befor e him . " L-o-ook at th-the b-b-lood ru n ! " I hear d hi m mutter. Twilight i n th e mountains ! Th

e native s stil l draggin g a t th e

haunches o f the colum n ; th e screa m o f a stricke n horse ; th e grun t o f a trooper, graze d o r run through ; the hoars e panting s of men and beasts, and the repeate d yel l o f one officer , commandin g upo n th e allie d power s of God, ma n an d th e devi l to." leave n o wounded behin d ! " The Colone l was a mile ahead lif t th e mountains , and I wa s clinging t o the las t outfit now—Don Cameron' s White Horse troop which hac} been rid -

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den to the bon e for days and coul d not kee p u p with the freshe r portio n of the regiment . I n a stretc h o f leve l wa y ahead , I suddenl y perceiv ed a sorrel pony, place d ther e a s i f b y divin e dispensation . Th e toug h and shapel y little stallio n was securely fastene d b y a heavy wir e whic h ran from hi s neck int o the jungle. Unabl e t o cu t o r break th e wire , I pushe d back th e undergrowt h t o see k th e othe r end . Meanwhile , th e las t troopers were passing. I heard a rustl e i n th e thic k growt h o f bamboo, and a n uncanny tremo r passe d coldl y ove r me , I kne w not why . " Come out of there, yo u damn littl e fool ! They'r e waitin ' t o carv e you at the en d of the wire ! " yelled the las t non-co m i n the column . My tardy facultie s graspe d th e ruse , an d I scramble d ont o th e ol d pony i n a sever e stat e o f thought. Less tha n twenty minutes later, the Whit e Hors e troo p heard a voice —a familiar-voice—cry ou t fro m th e darknes s behin d : " For Christ's sake—don't! " A detachmen t spurre d back an d foun d a membe r o f th e troo p pron e upon th e trail . Hi s fac e an d bod y wa s hacked . Th e bon e handl e o f a ~bolo protruded fro m hi s mouth. Th e poin t was fixed in the ground , ham mered by a stone throug h th e bas e o f the trooper' s brain . H e ha d halte d in the darknes s t o re-cinc h hi s mount, unnotice d b y hi s outfit . A s w e rode away, there reache d u s from th e jungl e behind , a frenzie d neighin g from th e capture d horse—frenzie d becaus e o f its separatio n fro m th e troop . Moonlight in the mountains, and the White Horse troop is miles behind. I d o no t kno w abou t th e others , bu t I , o n tha t torri d night , wa s shaking and chilled to the marrow from shee r fatigue . I ha d lost my spurs, and it is a hars h thin g t o think o f now, but I kep t th e pon y o n hi s fee t b y stabbing his flanks with a leadpencil . We reache d a bridge abou t a n hour befor e midnigh t an d foun d tha t a par t o f th e plankin g ha d bee n rippe d awa y b y the Filipinos . Ther e remained fo r twelve fee t ove r th e gorg e a ston e girde r seve n inche s wid e stretching fro m th e clif f t o th e soli d planking . Camero n determine d t o

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force th e horse s ove r thi s girde r i n the treacherous/moonlight. Th

e firs t

beast whirle d screamin g downwar d ! The Captai n spok e sharpl y to the im^MMsed trooper , an d made the secon d attempt himself . Hi s ow n moun t slipped an d was lost—crashed dow n to a th e rock y margi n fifty feet below . Almost incredibl e is the fac t tha t the othe r horse s wer e le d ove r i n safety . " I was never s o humiliated i n m y life, " Camero n whispere d t o m e later, "and the uglies t sensation I ever encountere d wa s when I le t g o Old Silver's bridle-rein. " Across the ravin e the cavalry trails diverged. Th e Captain , no t knowing which t o take, ordered hi s men into cam p after fifteen hours unde r fire. The harshes t momen t o f tha t whol e da y t o m e wa s whe n coffe e was forbidde n a fe w minutes afte r th e halt , becaus e th e necessar y fire s would dra w shots . W e rejoine d th e mai n bod y nex t mornin g a t Indang which ha d bee n take n afte r a figh t th e evenin g before—bu t m y pony—foundered—stayed behin d at the Broke n Bridg e Camp .

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My Mos t Strenuou s Campaign . On a stiflin g nigh t i n June , 1896 , severa l me n recentl y arrive d fro m Washington sa t o n the step s of a Chicago hotel , discussing , a s me n fro m Washington invariabl y do , politics . On e wa s Howar d Thompso n no w engaged i n telegraphing t o the Associate d Pres s fro m St . Petersburg officia l fabrications o f the destructio n o f Japanese armadas . Anothe r wa s a junior member of the junior house o f Congress, a n unassuming man clad in a linen "duster," whose fac e migh t hav e bee n tha t o f a tragedian . We were commentin g upo n the unprecedente d lac k o f a presidentia l candidate fo r the Democrati c conventio n whic h was to assembl e o n th e morrow. Thompso n remarke d casuall y : " It's a dark horse . I t migh t be you o r I, Bryan. " Everyon e smiled , the politicia n in the line n duster wit h the others . Thre e day s afterward w e saw ten thousan d people cheerin g for twent y crazy minutes the conclusion of his speech, " You shal l not press this crow n o f thorn s upo n th e bro w o f labor . Yo u shal l no t crucif y mankind upo n a cross o f gold." W e kne w that th e silverite s o f the Wes t had foun d thei r champio n t o fre e th e Democrac y fro m th e dominatio n of the Easter n gol d bugs , and tha t th e quie t ma n i n the line n duste r wa s th e dark horse . In Jul y I receive d a telegra m fro m th e manage r o f the Associate d Press : " Mr. Bryan wil l res t a week a t Upper Re d Hook. Joi n hi m and accompany him o n his campaig n tour. " After thre e excitin g politica l conventions , res t a t Re d Hoo k wa s alluring. I arrive d o n a Sunda y morning . Churchgoin g i s a n important incident i n th e lif e unde r the calciu m of a candidat e an d Mr.Brya n wa s to worship in the villag e church . Vision s o f the quie t little ston e buildin g and the soporifi c discours e o f a countr y pastor promised a—peaceful hour . "Some o f the folk s ar e comin ' i n fro m th e countr y to se e Bryan,"sai d

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the drive r wh o too k m e fro m th e station ; The y did , som e thousand s of them . The y fille d th e churc h an d muc h o f th e park , surroundin g it. Ove r the shoulder s of th e neares t stratum , through a window , with clothing badl y damaged , I achieved si x square inche s of standin g roo m in an aisle . After churc h I mus t cal l upo n th e candidat e t o pa y m y respects . Most o f the count y were doing the same . Mr . Brya n shook th e hand s of voters an d patte d babie s on the head , was jostled and trodden upon , and listened t o the ol d platitude s throughou t the lon g hot afternoon , while his host's garden was trampled int o a wallow of mud, peanu t shell s arid cigar stumps. Then , followe d b y a caravan of reporters, he drov e five miles to a neighboring villag e to addres s a Sunday schoo l gathering . Returning , we found th e premise s besiege d b y delegation s fro m religiou s bodie s wh o had com e by special trains t o obtai n the view s of the candidate upon " the alarming increas e o f th e traffi c i n alcoholic liquors" an d wh o afterwar d repaired t o the hote l wher e the correspondent s wer e stopping t o enlist the power o f the pres s i n support o f their crusade. Monday's programm e include d two speeche s i n nearb y towns , th e reception o f representative s o f th e Knight s o f Labor , Tarif f Refor m Leagues, Son s o f the Silve r States , Veterans of the Rebellion , Anti-poly gamists, Anti-vivisectionists , Anti-lynchers , an d Woman' s Suffragists , always wit h an exchange o f speeches; afterward a forma l dinner with more speeches, an d an evenin g made riotou s b y politica l clubs with torchlight parades and fireworks (more speeches) , concludin g with a serenade by th e Lower Re d Hoo k Silve r Corne t Band . Mr. Brya n was resting . The firs t da y o f work h e took a train, with his following o f secretarie s and reporters , di d thre e larg e citie s o f centra l Ne w York makin g eigh t speeches i n hall s and parks , an d fift y informa l talk s a t waysid e towns , besides shaking hand s wit h many thousan d citizens. Instruction s were t o report the speeches fully. Pantin g stenographer s and hysterical typewriters toiled fa r into the night . A t ever y railroa d statio n w e thrust a huge batc h of copy upo n bewildere d telegrapher s accustome d t o sendin g te n wor d

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messages. Eac h installmen t was headed "Add Bryan. " Unhappil y their arrival in the Ne w York offic e wa s not i n chronologica l sequenc e an d tha t night o f wrestlin g wit h " Add Bryan " i s still a maddenin g memor y with the editors . The y continue d cornin g in for a week an d som e hav e no t arrived yet . A t daybrea k th e corresponden t wa s awakene d t o rea d a Napoleonic command , "Condens e Bryan. " Th e stenographer s wer e already beginning to do so, for in such a flood of words there were naturally repetitions. On e wriggl e o f the pe'neii f represented "W e ca n restor e th e free an d unlimite d coinag e of gold an d silve r at th e constitutiona l ratio of sixteen t o one , without waiting fo r the ai d o r consent o f any othe r natio n on earth. " "Our Peerless Leader," a s he wa s emblazone d by the transparencies, being "Th e Champio n o f the Plai n People' * could not accept th e bribe s of plutocratic corporation s offere d i n the guis e o f palace cars . H e rod e i n a plain passenge r ca r an d th e plai n peopl e rod e ther e wit h him . The y purchased tickets t o trave l for th e sigh t o f a futur e president , an d al l th e occupants o f the trai n crowdd d int o hi s car. Th e Oldes t Inhabitant , the patriarch who voted for Jackson, the autograp h stalke r an d th e unknow n genius who desired to la y a poem a t th e fee t o f greatness, clambere d over our limb s and perche d on ou r seat s whil e w e strov e wit h pad s o n ou r knees t o compos e dispatches . Th e newspape r corp s hel d no antipath y toward trusts. The y accepted on the thir d day o f suffering th e privat e ca r of a railroad presiden t an d persuaded th e candidat e to rid e there a s thei r guest. The n a n oper a compan y playing " The Prodiga l Father, " wit h a fascinating choru s i n stra w colore d hair, boarde d th e train . Sinc e Ou r Peerless Leader was the Frien d o f the Workin g Ma n it seemed fitting that we should befrien d th e workin g girl , bu t whe n our othe r guest s entere d the car he?betrayed hi s principles and withdre w from ou r society . At Rocheste r twent y thousan d Democrat s hear d thei r Peerles s dea l verbal bod y blow s at the mone y powe r from a stand i n the publi c square. Afterward he" made a dash to catc h his train, while the peopl e surge d afte r him to grasp hi s hand. Born e alon g with th e current , my foo t slippe d o n the wet grass. I

awakened in a residence overlookin g th e park , wit h the

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fumes o f ammoni a in m y nostril s an d sympatheti c ladies at the bedside , t o learn that ninetee n of the twenty thousand patriots ha d walked on my body. By that tim e Mr . Bryan had played engagement s i n seven towns. Whe n I caught u p wit h the expedition i t was at Erie , State o f Pennsylvania. Th e candidate mad e thre e addresse s i n three theatre s tha t nigh t an d afterwar d the manage r o f the hote l whic h was leas t crowde d provided blanket s for seventeen journalists in a hall on the fourt h floor . Mr . Brya n appeared o n the balcon y in response to th e call s of the populac e gathered i n th e stree t and spok e onc e more. B y one in the mornin g the band s ha d playe d thei r last tune , the sk y rocket s ha d cease d t o fizz , th e torche s ha d paled, th e bonfires wer e burning low, and we thought the day' s agony was done. Bu t two o'clock cam e and excited voice s were stil l wafted u p to u s through th e night. Me n were gathere d o n th e sidewal k discussin g th e effec t o f th e demonitization o f silve r o n the pric e o f wheat . Th e proble m wa s on e which confuse d eminen t economists, but which the humbles t Democra t i n the lan d fel t perfectl y competen t to expound. Anyon e wh o declined to b e convinced wa s in the pa y of the Rothschild s an d that ende d th e argument . The representativ e o f the Ne w York Times , Irwi n Thomas , lik e hi s brother the dramatist , had a rotun d figure and clea n shaven face . Gather ing a n ulste r about his pajamas he steppe d ou t o n the fir e escape . "Friends an d Fello w Citizens! " Hi s voic e ran g ou t imperativel y while he stretched a commanding arm toward th e sky . "Yo u ca n do it." There wa s a wild cheer , followed b y a hush, and all faces wer e turne d expectantly upwar d t o the speaker , a s they thought , t o th e statesma n fro m Nebraska. "You ca n restore th e fre e an d unlimite d coinag e o f gold an d silve r (cheers) at th e constitutiona l ratio o f sixteen t o on e without waitin g Tor the aid o r consen t of any othe r natio n o n earth . (Tremendou s cheers. ) W e have worke d man y day s an d night s t o sav e thi s natio n fro m th e Rothschilds. W e are tired . Fo r Heaven' s sake disperse , an d let u s hav e sleep."

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In Modoc . " Lookout, Modoc County, California, five men lynched here last night . Particulars later." That wa s the telegraphi c despatch receive d i n the Sa n Francisco offic e of the Associate d Pres s one afternoon in th e sprin g o f 190 1 tha t resulte d in an exciting experience in my career. Eve n i n California new s of sentence passed b y Judge Lync h upo n one ma n is of more than ordinary interest, an d when the news came that th e distinguishe d jurist had settle d th e fat e o f five men at one time, the wires were made hot with telegrams demanding the story . But the anxiousl y awaited particulars faile d t o arrive . Th e peacefu l tow n of Lookout might just as well have bee n unde r th e contro l o f a Japanes e censor for all the new s that cam e fro m there . Lookou t i s only about 10 0 miles from th e neares t railroa d station , but a rather shaky telegraph lin e had been buil t int o the countr y and ther e wa s no apparent reaso n fo r the failur e to obtain the muc h desired " particulars." The silenc e o f Lookou t becam e painful . When , a fe w day s later , reports fro m Susanville , Amade e an d Altura s state d tha t th e law-abidin g citizens of Modoc Count y had ende d th e career s o f five of their numbe r b y dropping them off a bridg e wit h rope s aroun d thei r necks , ther e wa s a pardonable desir e on the par t o f thousand s o f peopl e i n othe r section s of the country to kno w why . Bu t th e correspondent s a t Lookout , Susan ville, Amadee an d Altura s eithe r coul d no t o r would not tel l why , and i t was up to m e to find out. I coul d no t spare on e of the offic e men , s o I thought I would take a little run up to Altura s an d ascertai n wha t ha d bee n done . I t i s onl y a short journey o f two and a half days b y train and wagon fmm Sa n Francisc o to Alturas, and I needed rest . O n the trai n I me t a ma n wh o was a cattle buyer and who was on his way to Alturas . H e becam e my guide, philoso -

(4 0) pher an d friend , an d invite d m e t o rid e i n hi s privat e conveyanc e fro m Termo, the end of the railroad, to Alturas. I t was a most uninteresting drive through mile s of alkal i plain s and " sage brush . Hundred s o f jack rabbit s and a n occasional slinking coyote wer e all the living things w e encountered . As w e approached Altura s an occasiona l ranc h hous e gav e indication s that the countr y was not destitut e o f population. About tw o mile s fro m Altura s m y friend, th e cattl e buyer , halte d hi s team, hande d the reins to me, and extracted a travelling bag from the botto m of the wagon . H e opene d th e ba g an d too k therefro m tw o si x shooters. One was a revolver o f larg e calibre , an d th e othe r a smalle r weapon, bu t apparently equall y deadl y at clos e range . Afte r carefull y examinin g th e mechanism o f th e weapon s and loadin g them, he place d th e larg e pisto l i n a holster worn on a belt in plain view. Th e smalle r weapon h e place d i n the breast o f a canva s jumper. I wa s an intereste d observe r o f thes e warlik e actions, and requeste d informatio n a s to thei r purport. Sai d m y friend , th e cattle buye r : " There's a fello w i n Alturas who has sen t m e warnin g tha t h e wil l shoot m e i f I dar e ente r the town. " " Why don't yo u turn back ? " I inquired. " I can't affor d to, " wa s the response. " If it became known that a man could scar e m e away fro m an y town by merel y threatening t o shoot me, m y occupation a s a cattl e buye r in this region woul d be gone. " " But why do you carry two guns? " I asked . ." Oh," h e said , " the bi g on e is for show an d the littl e one is for use. You see , wit h the big gun i n the holster I can talk t o a man without makin g a warlik e move , a s h e wil l be watchin g m y gun. I f it comes t o a show down, the littl e fello w i n the breas t o f my jumper .can b e pulle d befor e h e knows what is going to happen . " But you need no t be alarmed," he continued. " If there i s going t o be a figh t i t will be a fai r on e ; h e won' t dare shoo t m e i n th e back , fo r h e knows wha t the peopl e o f Modo c Count y woul d d o t o hi m i f he kille d a man i n anything but a fai r fight . I t wil l be a question o f who ca n dra w th e

(41)

quickest, and I recko n I ca n take car e of myself. Al l yo u nee d t o d o i s to keep your eyes open , and dro p whe n the shootin g begins. " We drov e int o Alturas an d registere d a t th e hotel . Whil e w e wer e waiting to be show n to ou r room s w e sa t i n woode n armchairs , ou r back s close to the wall , and facin g th e entranc e to th e bar-room . I wa s telling my frien d som e anecdot e whe n suddenly, wit h hardl y a perceptibl e move ment o f his lips, he said : " Don't move ; kee p o n talking ; her e come s m y man." I looke d up , and saw i n th e doorwa y betwee n th e bar-roo m an d th e hotel offic e a tall, roughl y dresse d man . H e saw us at the sam e time, gav e a sligh t start, an d then walke d ove r t o wher e w e were sitting. Th e man' s arms were hanging at hi s sides , an d hi s hand s wer e empty . I looke d a t my friend . H e ha d no t move d a muscle , an d apparentl y wa s no t eve n looking at the approachin g man. I trie d to kee p o n with m y stor y a s instructed, but beyon d a mechan ical movement of the lip s I doub t i f I uttere d a sound. The bi g ma n walked fro m th e bar-room , an d as he approached , sai d : " Hello, Burn s ! Are you ' heeled ' ? " My friend nodded , and glanced down at the holste r at hi s side. Instea d of drawing a weapon, as I ha d anticipated, th e bi g ma n extende d hi s righ t hand and said : " That's goo d ; bu t you won't nee d it . I wan t to tel l you that I was mistaken about that matter . Wil l you shak e ? " My friend , th e cattl e buyer , shook , an d s o di d I , bu t i n a differen t manner. When w e adjourned t o th e bar-roo m to indulge in the refreshmen t that etiquette i n Modoc Count y demands upon such a n occasion , the nec k of the bottle played a lively tattoo o n my glass as I poure d out a drink. I kno w that m y finger s ha d mad e dent s i n th e woode n arm s o f the chair where I had clutched them while waiting for the carnage to commence. My nerves ha d no t recovered their normal condition that evenin g whe n three resident s o f Modoc knocked at the doo r o f my room , and were admitted. The y inquire d my business i n Modo c County , and when told tha t I was travelling merely fo r pleasure an d fo r rest , they informe d m e that th e

(43)

climate o f Altura s wa s ver y unhealth y fo r strangers , an d ou t o f friendl y interest in my welfare, the y woul d advis e me to retur n to Sa n Francisco . I ha d no desire t o leave Alturas , bu t their argument s seeme d mos t convinc ing, when my friend, the cattle buyer, came to the rescue . I was introduced to m y three visitor s as his friend, an d they were tol d tha t I wa s all right . I remaine d i n Alturas a few days while the gran d jury was busy indicting the principal citizens of th e count y fo r participatio n i n the lynchin g o f the five men, and was allowed throug h th e courtes y o f th e committe e t o telegraph th e stor y t o Sa n Francisco. A n ol d man name d Clark , hi s thre e half-breed India n sons, and a hired man ha d bee n gentl y suspende d fro m a bridge a t Lookou t on e night. The y had bee n guilty o f horse stealing , cut ting harness an d hamstringin g valuable animals for motives o f revenge . The me n wh o wer e indicte d fo r th e lynchin g wer e acquitte d afte r a short trial . Th e lynchin g wa s a n expensiv e administratio n o f justice fo r the goo d citizen s of Modoc County. A n extr a ta x fo r the expense s o f the trial was levied upo n them , while at th e sam e tim e the y wer e contributing liberally and privatel y to a fun d fo r th e defens e o f the allege d lynchers .

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How Stephe n Cran e Too k Juan a Bias . At th e clos e o f the Spanish-America n campaign , th e America n forces that lande d i n Port o Rico , wer e suppose d t o b e invadin g a hostil e territory. Politically , a s a colon y of the enemy , th e inhabitant s of th e is land should hav e bee n hostile , bu t the y wer e not . The y receive d ou r troops with one hand ope n and the othe r presentin g either a bouquet, o r a bottle. Ou r troops claspe d bot h hands . Ther e stil l remaine d i n many of the towfls a Spanis h garrison , but fro m th e greate r numbe r these garrison s had been withdraw n upo n Sa n Juana. A s a resul t scouts and officer s o f our army o n reconnaisanc e were constantl y being welcome d b y the native s as conquering I K roes, and a t th e approac h o f one o f them, entir e village s would capitulat e a s readil y as though th e ma n had com e leadin g a n arm y corps. On e town surrendered t o an officer wh o had los t his way, and stumbled into it by mistake, another fel l t o th e bos s of a pac k train,' whose only object i n approaching it had bee n to steal som e ponies . In orde r to mak e quit e sure , som e town s surrendere d severa l times. Ponc e fo r instanc e surrendere d fou r time s t o a s man y differen t American officers . I t wa s no t saf e fo r a n America n wearin g anythin g that resemble d a unifor m t o approach a Port o Rica n stronghol d unles s he was prepared t o hav e i t fal l prostrat e a t hi s feet . It struc k m e that i n this surrendering habit of the Port o Rican s theie lay a chance fo r great entertainment, an d muc h persona l glory , especiall y as one would write the stor y oneself. I t woul d b e a fin e thin g I though t to accep t th e surrende r o f a town . Fe w wa r correspondent s ha d eve r done so. I t wa s a n honou r usuall y reserve d fo r Majo r General s i n thei r extreme ol d age . Half wa y betwee n Ponc e an d Coam o ther e is a tow n calle d Juan a Dias which,a t that time , seeme d rip e fo r surrenderin g an d I accordingl y

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proposed to'Stephe n Crane , that at sunrise , before th e arm y coul d advanc e to attac k i t w e shoul d dodg e ou r ow n sentries , an d tak e i t ourselves . Crane was charmed wit h the idea , and i t was arranged tha t o n the-morrow our combine d force s shoul d descen d upo n th e unsuspectin g villag e o f Juana Dias. W e tosse d t o see who should wak e the other , an d I won the toss. Bu t I los t th e town . Fo r i n a n evi l momen t Cran e confide d th e strategy o f our campaign to the manager o f his paper, the Ne w York World , Charlie Michaelsom , and Michaelsora-sa w no reaso n wh y i n this effor t t o enlarge ou r cpuntry' s boundaries, a ma n representin g a riva l newspaper , should take an y part. So , no one woke me, and while I slumbered , Cran e crept forwar d betwee n ou r advanc e posts , an d fel l upo n th e doome d garrison. H e approache d Juana Dia s i n a hollo w square , smokin g a cigarette. Hi s khak i suit , slouche d ha t and legging s wer e al l that wa s needed to driv e the first man he saw , or rather, th e man who first saw him, back upo n th e tow n in disorderl y retreat . Th e ma n arouse d th e villag e and te n minute s later ' the Alcade , endeavorin g t o stil l maintai n a certai n pride o f manner i n the eye s o f hi s townspeople , an d ye t on e not s o prou d as to displeas e th e America n conquero r surrendere d t o him th e key s o f the cartel . Cran e tol d m e tha t no General in the momen t o f victor y ha d ever acted i n a more generou s manner . H e sho t n o on e agains t a wall y looted n o churches , levie d n o "force d loans. " Instead , h e line d u p the mal e member s o f th e communit y in th e plaza , an d organized a joint celebration o f conquerors an d conquered . H e separate d th e me n into two classes, roughly divide d between " good fellow s " and "suspects." Anyon e of whos e appearanc e Cran e di d no t approve , anyon e whos e neckti e even di d no t sui t hi s fancy , wa s liste d a s a "suspec V Th e /'goo d fellows" h e graciousl y permitted t o act as his hosts an d bodyguard . Th e others he ordere d t o their homes . Fro m the barre d window s they looke d out wit h env y upo n the feas t o f brotherly lov e tha t overflowe d fro m th e plaza int o th e b y streets , an d lashe d itsel f int o a frenzie d carniva l o f rejoicing. I t wa s a long night , an d i t wil l b e lon g remembere d i n Juana Dias. Fo r fro m tha t nigh t date s a n aristocracy . I t i s founde d o n the fac t tha t i n th e eye s o f th e conquerin g America n whil e som e wer e

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chosen, many were foun d wanting . T o this da y in Juana Dias , th e hardes t rock yo u ca n fling at a ma n i s th e wor d " suspect." Bu t th e " good fellows " are still the " first families.'* In th e col d gre y daw n o f th e mornin g a s Cran e sa t ove r hi s coffee i n fron t o f the solitar y cafe , surrounde d by a s many of his bodyguard as were able b e about, h e sa w approachin g alon g th e militar y roa d fro m Ponce a solitar y America n soldier . Th e ma n balanced his rifl e alertl y a t the "ready," an d wa s dodgin g wit h th e skil l o f a n experience d scou t from on e side t o tfc e othe r o f th e lon g whit e highway . I n a momen t h e was followed b y a "point" of five men, who crept clos e t o th e bushes , and concealed their advanc e b y th e ai d of the shelterin g palms . Behin d the m cautiously cam e th e advanc e guard, an d then boldl y the Colone l himsel f on horseback an d 80 0 me n o f hi s regiment . Fo r si x hour s h e ha d bee n creeping forward stealthil y i n order to tak e Juan a Dias by surprise . His astonishmen t a t th e sigh t o f Crane* wa s sincere . Hi s pleasur e was no less great . H e kne w that it di d not fall t o th e lo t o f every Colone l to.have hi s victorie s immortalise d b y th e geniu s wh o wrot e th e Re d Badge of Courage. " I am glad to see you," h e cried eagerly, " have you been marchin g with my men ? " Crane shoo k hi s head . " I am sorry," sai d the Colonel , " I shoul d lik e yo u to have see n us take this town. " " THIS town ! "said Cran e in polite embarassment . " I'm really ver y sorry, Colonel , bu t I too k thi s tow n mysel f befor e breakfas t yesterda y morning"'

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"He tha t Die d o ' Wednesday. " "Honor i s a mere scutcheon."—Sir John Falstaff.

All hi s lif e th e Majo r had bee n onl y "th e so n o f hi s father. " Boy hood, youth an d earl y manhoo d h e spen t baskin g i n the sunshin e of the older man' s greatness . Wealt

h an d socia l positio n wer e hi s withou t

thought. Ther e was no need t o strive . The fathe r die d an d h e becam e hea d o f th e family . The n cam e th e war. Whe n hi s regimen t arrived in Manila , men sai d i t was th e powerfu l influence o f his mother tha t ha d secure d hi s commission , an d th e prou d will o f his wif e tha t ha d cause d hi m t o accep t it . H e wa s to prov e himself worthy to bea r hi s distinguishe d name. He possesse d i n larg e measur e th e commo n heritag e o f hi s race , simple courage . Th e tim e soo n cam e to sho w it . I t wa s his first action. His battalion had th e advance , an d th e Majo r .marche d no t fa r from th e point. Fro m an ambush beside th e roa d came the sudden bulle t that struc k down th e sergean t i n the lead . A s th e ma n fel l th e Majo r spran g forwar d and caugh t him . "Get a surgeon! " he shouted. The neares t ma n turne d t o obey . A s h e starte d a secon d bulle t speeding fro m th e ambus h stretche d th e Majo r o n th e ground , his arm s still roun d the ma n he ha d trie d t o help . Th e colum n swep t b y u p th e road an d th e figh t wa s on. Three day s late r I wa s standin g o n the Mol e in Manila , i n front o f the Depot Quartermaster' s warehouse . Dow n th e stree t a slo w processio n came, le d b y a solem n ban d playin g its eve r recurrin g Chopi n march . Overhead no t a clou d flecked the blue . Sof t sunligh t filled all the squali d place. Th e ai r was as balmy as o n a warm spring day at home . About an d inside th e warehous e me n wer e har d a t work, Filipino s and Chines e coolies, hal f clad , ragged , dirty , sweatin g unde r hug e loads ,

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pushing boxes, haulin g bundles , rollin g barrels . I n th e mids t o f the tur moil they se t u p two trestles. Ther e the y placed the casket, covered wit h the bright , beautiful fla g h e ha d serve d s o briefly . Ranged o n each sid e wer e th e me n of the funera l party , bar e headed . Outside, th e unmoved , long practised ban d waite d t o pla y th e quickstep . By the hea d o f th e caske t stoo d th e Chaplain , thin , wan , fever-stricken. Three o r fou r wome n leane d agains t th e wal l b y th e doorway , furtivel y wiping their eyes . On e unreservedl y burie d he r fac e i n he r hand s an d sobbed. Th e Chaplai n lifted a thin hand, the colo r of the faded khak i of his uniform: " I am the Resurrectio n and the Life, " he began . The Filipino s an d Chines e outsid e wrangle d abou t thei r wor k o r shouted a t on e anothe r i n roug h jest . A passin g tu g screame d shril l warning to a pull-boat in the river . " Man that i s bor n o f a woman, " solemnl y repeate d th e Chaplain , " hath bu t a shor t tim e to liv e and is full o f misery." A lin e of four-mule wagon s cam e lumberin g down the Mole , pounding noisily ove r th e roug h pavement , th e driver s angril y callin g t o coolies t o get ou t o f the way , demanding thei r freight , quarrellin g wit h on e anothe r and their lot . "Earth t o earth," sai d the Chaplain , slowly , "ashe s t o ashes; dust t o dust! " The trumpete r graspe d hi s bugl e an d steppe d t o th e foo t o f th e casket. Slowly , softly , the notes o f beautiful " Taps " floated through th e throbbing warehouse , an d fo r th e momen t hushe d th e nois e o f toil an d strife. Outside , me n instinctivel y stoppe d an d uncovered , the las t tribut e of the brav e t o the brave . The bugl e ceased . Th e me n lifte d th e caske t an d carrie d i t to th e launch that was t o take i t t o th e transpor t fo r it s journe y home * Th e band struc k u p its quickstep an d marched away. Th e "so n o f hi s father " was mustered out .

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One Day' s Wor k i n Cuba . There ar e thrill s and thrill s in the lif e o f every wa r correspondent , an d I am tempte d to indulg e in introspectiv e analysi s o f my feeling s whe n attempting to selec t tha t commandin g moment wher e m y clima x o f human emotion was reached . I find moments when horror has overcome me, when fea r ha s paralyzed me, whe n poignan t grie f ha s constricte d m y heart , whe n sympath y an d pity have deepl y stirre d m y soul, when humor has shaken me with laughter, and pathos ha s bowe d m y hea d i n tears , an d whe n al l or man y o f these have combine d to hol d m e bound i n aw e a t th e destructio n produce d b y the passion s o f men swaye d by a commo n impulse and cause . As a n illustration of what I mean , le t m e tak e th e campaig n i n Cuba, alone, where a sensationa l engagemen t o f a day, of f the harbo r o f Santiago, and one fierce battle o n land, befor e tha t city , resulte d i n the capitulatio n of the Spanis h army and the signin g o f the protocol . I stoo d b y Grimes ' Batter y i n th e earl y mornin g o f Jul y ist , 1898 , while th e gunner s wit h deliberat e car e thre w shel l an d shrapne l a t a Spanish block-hous e fa r i n th e distance . A smal l arm y o f eager-eye d correspondents crowde d aroun d the battery , intersperse d wit h a galaxy of foreign militar y and nava l attaches , immaculat e fro m th e waist-lin e u p in full-dress uniforms , an d bedraggle d an d mud-bespattered , a s regards their nether garments . A sor t o f festive occasion , a premature bi t o f Fourth of July celebration, i f you like , with burstin g shell replacin g paper wad s ! Some tw o hundred yard s behin d the battery stoo d E l Pos o house, wit h its whit e stuccoe d wall s an d curve d red-tile d roof . A

smal l clearin g

separated th e hous e fro m th e impenetrabl e tropica l forest , wit h it s dark shadowed tree s festoone d with sinuou s llanias , an d a n underlyin g jungle of cruel, sharp-spike d Spanish dagge r plant s and cacti. Her e several thousan d

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soldiers wer e baskin g i n the gratifyin g warmt h o f a n earl y mornin g sun, and, afte r th e chill y nigh t advance , thawin g ou t thei r cold-benumbe d frames. Six shells screame d fro m th e guns , growling , droning , an d finall y sighing away int o th e purple-tinte d vist a o f palm-crowne d hills . The n the earthquak e cam e : Th e purpl e distanc e ha d throw n back the devilish , screeching shells . One—two—three—four—five—six—the y came , almos t as I slowl y coun t them , and , wit h the accurac y o f previousl y well-platte d range, they fel l o n the gun s o f our battery , on e shel l actuall y burstin g on a gun an d killin g and woundin g four artillerists , anothe r tearin g of f a cavalry man's le g no t twenty fee t fro m wher e I stood , a third crashin g through th e red-roofed house , an d other s droppin g i n the ver y mids t o f th e reclining , closely-clustered Roug h Rider s an d Thir d Cavalrymen . Presto! Change ! U p th e nearb y hil l th e plumage d attache s fled , outrun b y nimbl e wa r correspondents , leavin g th e artillerist s griml y t o serve thei r gun s alone. Unfortunatel y I had a horse—acquired by strateg y and retaine d by th e simpl e process o f daubing out th e brande d U . S . o n his flank wit h yello w mud , and filling the deep-cu t number s in his hoo f wit h a similar clayey preparation—an d I di d no t fee l incline d t o deser t hi m i n hi s hour o f need, s o I retreate d o n foot , leadin g th e startle d anima l b y th e bridle-strap, towar d th e mai n highwa y connectin g Santiag o wit h th e coast . As I ran , our Cuba n allies, i n thei r whit e cotto n clothes , fle d wit h me , throwing themselves prostrat e o n the groun d a s each shel l roare d ove r ou r heads, o r burstin g pieces hurtle d cruelly nea r ou r ears . A daze d momen t o f relief, a t findin g mysel f outsid e th e concentrate d zone o f fire, in the narro w main trail congeste d fro m fores t wall to wall with troops, an d the n the militar y balloon came sailin g around a corner , a hun dred fee t abov e th e talles t trees , an d int o plain view fro m th e Spanis h posi tion, whereupon their artiller y fire was promptly directe d upo n it. Five minutes with Grimes' Batter y an d the n te n minute s o f hell unde r the militar y balloon, as I vainl y yelle d "Gangway " fro m m y saddle , an d pleaded wit h soldier s who , wit h eye s straine d skyward , wer e duckin g shattered shrapnel , to let me advance! I coul d no t g o rearward , a s th e

( 5 i)

troops were moving forward an d ha d th e roadwa y solidl y packed. Perhaps this was my mos t interestin g fifteen minutes ! An hou r later, I la y behind a five-foo t embankmen t a t th e "blood y angle," vainly trying to regai n contro l o f a rattle d heart , f>ersoriall y safe , but horrorstruc k at th e 'sigh t o f me n dropping , wounded o r d|ad, faste r than I coul d count them, a s they rushe d through th e water s cjf, th e littl e brook, in plain sight o f the Spanis h block-hous e si x hundre d j^rds away . During a lull in the advanc e over th e stream , a lone soldter c&ipe int o view, sprinting fast , double d up wit h hi s hea d belo w hi s wal^-Kn e an d gu n swinging at arm's lengt h near the ground . Whe n h e readied th e mudd y bank o f the brook , his fee t apparentl y slipped , an d h e plunged hea d firs t into the water . A laug h went up , bu t wa s hushed .atf . frtidfdenly when th e gentle current turned upward a dea d face , wit h a bullet-hole i n the whit e forehead, an d a pennant of red bloo d ripple d witf i tri € water s of the shallo w stream. Fiftee n minutes , and a hundred lay dead, dying or wounded under the shelte r o f the bank , brought fro m a radiu s of only thirty yards . Was m y clima x of emotion reached her e ? Sixty minutes after, an d I la y alone, far to th e left o f the blood y angle, flat upon m y fac e i n a grass-grow n road, with ten inche s o f protecting earth in front . Th e Sixt h Infantr y ha d cu t th e lowe r wire s of the borderin g fence an d si x hundre d men ha d crawle d awa y o n al l fours , int o the waist high gras s o f the ope n fiel d directl y i n fron t o f th e block-hous e perche d high o n San Juan hill. The roa r o f small arms, rapid-fir e gun s an d a limited amount of artillery pelte d th e ear s wit h rackin g vibrations , and , from th e bushe s a few feet overhead , leave s an d twig s cu t b y bullet s droppe d i n a continua l shower. Th e frenzie d horro r o f th e child , arouse d from slumbe r and los t in the dar k o f its own comfortable room, the childis h terror o f a dar k nigh t in wind-swept woods, people d wit h monster s o f th e imagination , do no t equal the sensation s o f a timid ma n los t i n th e conflic t o f battle , without sight o f huma n being , touc h o f flesh , o r wor d o f mout h t o give hi m courage. Through a small openin g in the intervenin g shrubbery I coul d see th e

(5 2)

block-house; minute s seemed t o dra g into"hours , a s I la y prone upo n my face, wit h eyes just peeping above th e earthe n bulwark . The n across m y field of vision, only a hundre d yard s away , strod e Genera l Hawkins , hip deep i n the tangle d grass . Ove r hi s gra y head , whic h shone a s silver in the sunlight , he swun g hi s campaig n hat , whil e behin d hi m marche d a bugler wit h swollen cheeks , blowin g the charge , onl y the fain t ech o of which reache d m e above .the din. A stragglin g lin e o f me n rose, one by one, above th e yellow swaying grass-tops, an d plunged stumblingly forward for Sa n Juan hill. A revulsio n of feeling , fro m abjec t terro r t o maddenin g patriotism , swept me to m y feet, howling and cheering fiercely the me n who s o bravel y stormed th e hill , and then, with a realizing sense of personal danger , I onc e more .clung to earth . Was thi s my fifteen minutes, o r wa s i t tha t nigh t o n th e battlefield , when a ful l and brilliant tropical moon encompassed the hil l and valle y an d forest i n a pure whit e light , an d th e stillnes s o f th e night , withou t th e quiver of a leaf, seemed , i n compariso n wit h th e nois e an d thunde r an d fierce struggle o f th e pas t sun-scorche d day , lik e th e silenc e and softnes s of eternity ? Th e hig h gras s o f th e no w silen t fiel d o f death ha d change d to a se a o f silver , and , fro m it s shallo w depths , cold , white-face d me n peacefully stare d int o the beautifu l heave n beyond, content at last. My bunky was dead; the companion , the chum , the frien d wit h whom I ha d share d th e pleasure s an d difficultie s o f lon g preparatio n fo r th e campaign, unti l we ha d learne d al l o f on e another' s littl e secrets, failures , successes and ambitions in life. " Sorry, ol d chap. Yes , he' s bee n killed . Brave soldier . I don' t kno w wher e h e is, " the y tol d me , wit h a clasp of the han d an d a glisten o f the eye . It wa s like a dream, some story I had previousl y read, s o unrea l an d yet s o real, as I wandered over that battlefield alone, lookin g for my dead , and I fel t no t onl y my ow n grief, bu t th e grie f o f mothers and wive s and sisters an d sweethearts , who , wit h straine d an d quiverin g nerves , were waiting in far distant home s fo r th e blo w tha t woul d sadde n th e res t of their lives.

(S 3)

There la y a soldier , wit h his fac e t o th e moonlight , and eyes-closed s o softly a s to mak e i t hard t o believ e hi m dead ; her e someon e ha d kindl y placed his campaign hat ove r th e starin g eye s o f another , tha t he migh t sleep, and yonder anothe r la y pron e upo n hi s face , wit h hi s rifl e beneat h him, stil l fiercely gripped i n hi s hand , an d ther e an d there , th e silve r se a was strewn with the m ; and at las t I found m y bunky—no t sacrifice d in th e dead leve l o f the fiel d below , for he ha d climbe d th e hill , i n the fearfu l jo y of the combat , t o th e ver y edg e o f the Spanis h trenche s themselves . As I too k awa y fro m hi m all his little trinket s an d personal effects , t o send t o the siste r who m he supporte d a t home, th e word s o f his good-bye that mornin g rang incessantl y i n my ears: " Bunky, I'l l com e ou t of this a colonel o r a corpse," an d th e refrai n ran, ove r and over, " A corpse , a corpse, a corpse." Was this m y fifteen minutes? I leav e i t to you.

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A Startlin g Surprise . It wa s in April, 1900 . Th e dar k day s o f th e earl y Sout h Africa n campaign wer e no w numbered among th e event s o f a nation's histor y an d Lord Robert s a t th e hea d o f a magnificen t arm y wa s sweepin g toward s Pretoria. I attached mysel f to th e cavalr y pavin g the wa y for the onwar d movement tha t wa s intende d t o envelo p th e principa l town s o f th e Transvaal. One mornin g after a dusty march beneat h a scorchin g sun we sighted , far acros s th e bare , brown veldt , th e tow n o f Kroonstad . Togethe r with the corresponden t of the " Times " I rod e forwar d wit h the cavalr y patro l despatched t o reconnoitr e wha t wa s regarde d a s a vitall y strategi c position. Afte r fordin g th e rive r a hard , fas t gallo p brough t u s to th e entrance t o th e town , Th e mai n bod y o f th e enem y ha d retire d som e time befor e ou r arrival an d th e loca l authoritie s under th e circumstance s deemed immediat e surrender advisable. No t a singl e sho t wa s fire d an d beyond a siniste r expression o f sulle n regar d fro m th e peopl e loungin g about th e streets , ther e wer e n o evidence s o f hostility , rea l o r implied . Soon afterward s th e patro l withdre w fro m th e tow n to rejoi n the mai n body o f th e army , th e "Times " corresponden t an d mysel f remainin g behind. Whe n th e tow n becam e deprive d o f arme d authority , th e Kaffi r population, whose lov e fo r thei r forme r masters , th e Boers , wa s no t particularly striking , ra n rio t i n the marke t plac e fighting , wit h all the fur y of savage instinc t let loose. W e endeavoure d t o quel l the disturbanc e b y riding ou r horse s throug h an d throug h th e mob . Th e " Times " cor respondent inspire d a good dea l of respect with a revolver which he carried , but unfortunatel y I wa s arme d wit h nothin g mor e formidable , tha n a n ordinary huntin g crop. When somethin g like orde r ha d bee n restored , I lef t rn y colleague ,

(5 6)

who ha d firml y mastere d th e situation , and wen t fo r a Fou r roun d th e town. I n vie w o f th e complet e an d read y surrende r I unhesitatingl y ventured here , ther e an d everywhere , without fea r o f meetin g a n enemy . But I soo n receive d a startlin g surprise . Ridin g pas t a lo w ston e wall which surrounde d a pleasan t littl e villa , I espie d a visio n tha t mad e m e pause wit h a rapidit y that migh t be take n for shock. Confrontin g m e wa s the blac k barrel o f a rifl e pointe d straigh t a t m y hea d b y a black-bearde d .Boer. I t wa s certainly a momen t fo r promp t action . Withi n th e spac e of about a minut e I explaine d t o hi m tha t th e tow n ha d unconditionally surrendered, and added , wit h an originalit y and quicknes s of though t tha t since ha s ofte n mad e m e marvel, that th e Britis h troop s wer e i n possession and tha t a n vas t arm y wa s clos e a t hand . Almos t simultaneousl y ther e popped over the stone wall ninetee n more bearde d face s an d ninetee n more rifles. I realise d m y danger , bu t wit h a n assume d air o f unconcer n I informed the " opposing force " that a s their position was hopeless the y must immediately la y dow n thei r arms . Happil y fo r me, the y followe d thi s counsel. Whe n I entere d th e enclosur e beyon d th e garde n wal l I saw that each ma n carried a plentiful * supply o f ammunitio n an d learn t tha t th e chief of the contingen t was the noted Wessels. Withou t a moment' s dela y they handed ove r thei r rifle s wit h a child-lik e fait h i n th e veracit y o f the receiver whic h at the tim e I thoroughl y admired. Th e "bag " also included twent y horse s an d equipment . I stacke d the rifle s o n the insid e of the wall and ordere d th e me n int o th e street . Stil l I di d no t fee l tha t th e incident wa s satisfactoril y closed. Twent y me n i n charg e o f on e ma n armed wit h a hunting crop certainl y hel d th e balanc e of power. Fo r tw o hours I mounte d guar d ove r th e prisoners . I t wa s perhap s th e most imcomfortable tw o hours I hav e eve r spent . Occasionall y th e prisoner s becoming curious , woul d as k leadin g questions , th e answer s t o whic h called fo r som e inventiv e skill . Bu t I spok e i n ster n tone s an d di d rny utmos t t o loo k th e par t I wa s playing . Grea t indee d wa s m y relief whe n I sa w th e figur e o f a horsema n gallopin g toward s me . Presently a lif e guardsma n reine d u p befor e th e vill a and I relate d t o hi m that the twent y men sitting i n a ro w wer e prisoner s o f war, addin g tha t I

(5 7) would requir e hi s service s t o assis t i n maintainin g guard . Wit h muc h significant displa y he dre w back the bol t of his rifle, an d placin g a cartridg e in the barre l pressed i t home with an emphasi s tha t wa s not los t upo n th e group. No w th e prisoner s appeare d t o realise , mor e acutel y tha n before, tha t th e arm y ha d actuall y arrive d and at las t I breathe d wit h th e freedom of a man who was no longe r a prisone r of his prisoners. The clatter o f gallopin g hoof s heralde d th e approac h o f mounted troops , an d when the y ha d entere d the town , we two , the lif e guardsma n and myself, escorted ou r contigen t t o th e Provos t Marshall . Kroonsta d ha d been captured an d twenty prisoners .

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The Penalt y o f War Corresponding . Through th e nebulou s mist s hanging i n thick, clammy folds , ove r th e Eastern Se a bu t a mont h ago sho t th e piercing , opalescent ray s o f a farreaching flashlight . Horizontally , perpendicularly , obliquely , tt e ligh t clove the nethe r dar k o f the nigh t lik e the ghos t o f a grea t knife . £Jo w it hesitated a s som e fishing junk came withi n it s focus , an d ano n it trembled as a lesser objec t ros e upo n th e swellin g sea . Presentl y i t stopp$$ sud denly i n a swee p o f th e wav e surfac e an d settle d penetratingl y upo n a steamer surgin g its way eastwards t o Japan. Upo n he r whit e upper work s and mast s the ligh t shon e phosphorescentl y and limne d her ou t against ; £he crowding darknes s lik e a phanto m craft . Passenger s o n her deck s w;or e spectral faces , an d but fo r the rapi d beatin g o f hearts which came upo n tte ears lik e the monotonou s rapping of temple drums , i t woul d have bee n clif t ficult to tell tha t the y were livin g beings. Clingin g to th e pendulou s rai) ^ which rose and fell wit h rhythmic motion, they peered at th e spo t wher e the, brilliant ray s converged , hopin g by som e supernatura l agenc y t o hav e the , nationality o f th e vesse l starin g a t the m displaye d t o thei r view. Al l around an d beyond th e glarin g disc wa s dark a s despair. Nothin g bu t th e noises of the night—thos e creaky , ghostl y sound s which invest a ship afloat on th e lonel y ocean—coul d b e heard . Everythin g wa s oppressive , uncanny. All tha t coul d be see n wa s the flashin g o f th e nea r wav e crest s an d the neare r spindrif t flying in blinding sheets fro m th e cu t water . Close r an d closer crawle d th e light , faste r an d faste r spe d th e steame r t o avoi d it . An apprehensio n o f approaching dange r possessed all o n the ship , an d fears were share d eve n b y those i n precipien t positions . Stoker

s and engineer s

toiled wit h th e energ y of despair i n th e grimy, feveris h stokehole , an d o n the dec k th e Captai n an d officer s pace d nervously , delivering their order s

(C o)

in monotone s scarcel y audible. Swis h ! Almos t wit h a noise, as the blad e of light swep t throug h th e ai r fro m sight , th e worl d wa s plunged i n utte r darkness deepe r tha n th e gloo m o f Stygia . Eye s coul d not see farthe r than th e rai l for wha t seeme d a n hour , bu t whe n sigh t wa s restore d a vision whic h struc k terro r int o ever y hear t appeared . No t mor e tha n a quarter of a mil e away was a hug e cruise r looming u p like a grea t blac k monster. Fro m he r shar p stee l ste m wate r spoute d i n miniature Niagaras. Behind he r traile d fas t turnin g masse s o f smoke. He r spee d wa s " full ahead," he r intent ; t o cu t u s down . Wit h a roaring , crashing , blood curdling tumult she clov e lik e a flying thing throug h th e resistles s waves . Men of stout hear t trembled . Thei r bloo d ra n chil l through thei r veins . Their hai r move d wit h tha t strang e creep y sensatio n tha t unusua l frigh t produces. " Man the lifeboat s ! man the lifeboat s ! " Th e orde r cam e in terrible tones fro m th e bridge . Ther e was a wild rush o f men; a clatterin g ring o f the telegrap h t o th e engin e room; a sudden , violent , soul-stirrin g shudder, an d the vesse l swep t mids t surgin g commotio n i n the se a upo n a backward course . " Hard a port!" yelled the Captain, with eyes glued upo n the advancin g mas s o f steel. "Hard- a port , i t is, " answere d th e voic e of the helmsman . Th e vessel appeare d t o scarcely respond . " Hard a port , I sai d !" roare d the Captain . " Hard a port it is," murmure d the helms man. I n horro r me n almost los t their wits. Onwar d with thundrous noise sprang th e might y ship . He r forwar d guns , he r anchor s an d chains , her bridge an d masts , becam e plainly visible. Sh e wa s a Russian—an d cleare d for action . Slowl y astern an d to port swun g our apparentl y doomed vessel . But a hundre d yards separate d us , when, wit h wha t looke d lik e a gigantic leap, th e cruise r rose i n the air . Men shu t their eye s an d clun g t o whateve r suppor t was near. Th e roar o f waters, the screec h o f steam, th e uproariou s rattle o f racing screws , combined t o drow n al l othe r sounds . Wit h heart s i n mouth s and limbs limp with fear me n held on , waiting for the end. Ther e was a loud Russia n howl o f disappointment, a rockin g o f th e steamer , a roa r o f a passing ship . Away acros s ou r bows the cruise r Jshot lik e a rocket . Me n foun d thei r voices an d cheered . " Boom ! " Th e cheers were drowned in the wild , mad

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screeching o f flyin g shells . Th e battleshi p wen t astern , he r starboar d swung round , and fro m wreath s o f whit e smok e poure d a deadl y hai l of shell. Mast s and bridge an d riggin g wer e rippe d asunde r and toppled o n the deck s lik e limb s loppe d fro m trees . Th e moan s o f dying me n fille d the air , and the shou t o f the me n a t th e whee l af t tha t th e rudde r ha d been sho t awa y showe d survivor s tha t chanc e o f escape wa s gone, tha t resistance wa s useless. Slowl y th e cruise r swung round an d dre w nearer . Voices of men o n her dec k coul d be heard . Abov e al l wa s the gruf f roa r of the commande r on her bridge . " Potopit sudno, " (sin k th e ship ) h e crie d agai n an d again, bu t so great was the excitemen t tha t n o on e heede d him . Me n crowde d alon g the bulwarks waiting with grappling irons i n hand, an d as the ship s crashed in an embrace the command " Gotovsya k pristupu " (prepare to board) was obeyed instantly . Tough , villainous-visage d men clambere d t o th e rail . With victoriou s shouts they leap t t o our deck s an d rushed upo n passenger s and cre w wherever they coul d find them, seize d the m an d boun d them . " Vzyat vsye h v plen," (mak e everyon e prisoners ) shrieke d th e com mander as he clambere d t o ou r "focsle " head . Hi s orde r wa s useless, for all were tied wit h rop e by thi s tim e and parade d o n the deck. Dirty , illkempt Chines e stokers stoo d shudderin g besid e me n dressed i n the lates t fashion o f the Strand , an d to thes e a Russia n Lieutenan t i n broken Englis h addressed himself . " Ize sorry, " he said , "'bu t wh y you no stop ?" " We are English ! W e sto p fo r no man when there's a chanc e of get ting away," answere d a n engineer . " Ah, so ! You r ship , what iz it ? " "The Hyphun. " "Ah, ha ! Z e newspape r ship—zes e ar e z e correspondents! " h e shouted i n glee, pointin g to hal f a dozen me n tie d u p nea r th e companio n way. An d a demoniacal smil e sprea d ove r hi s fac e a s he interpreted ' the information t o th e commander . Fo

r a secon d o r two the tw o engaged in

a hasty conversation. "Kajdi k borta," (ti e ever y ma n to the rails ) shoute d th e commander ,

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in Russian , and promptl y eac h perso n wa s seized , shove d t o th e ship' s rails, and ther e lashe d up . 11 Zese me n o f z e paper s writ e z e ba d stor y o f z e Russians, " th e Lieutenant sneere d meaningly , a s he pointe d wit h hi s swor d a t th e cor respondents, who wer e now tied han d an d foo t facin g a firing squad whic h had bee n ordere d fro m th e cruiser . " Zey must pay ze penalty. " An orde r i n Russia n cause d a scurr y o f hal f a doze n me n to th e cruiser, an d presentl y the y appeare d wit h armful s o f th e newspaper s published throughou t th e world . Th e Time s elbowe d Collier' s Weekly. The Standar d struggle d fo r breathing place with Australian dailies. Ou t of a corne r poke d th e hea d o f the Chicag o Tribune , and i n desperate grappl e were th e Ne w York Herald , th e Dail y Express , th e Chronicle , an d th e Daily Mail . Th e Londo n Dail y Telegrap h endeavoure d t o sprea d itsel f over the combine d paper s o f th e Associate d Press . Th

e mas s looke d

grim. Ever y on e wondere d wha t wa s next . Russian s grinne d a t eac h other a s th e commande r an d hi s officer s converse d wit h on e another . Suddenly th e Lieutenan t turned to th e correspondents : " Ze firs t o f z e punishment iz this: Eac h o f ze correspondents pick ze papers o f hes offic e out , and eac h stan d u p wi d he s pape r an d rea d wha t he hessel f has written." A blan d smile, despite th e seriousnes s of the situation , oversprea d th e countenances o f everyone . Al l th e correspondent s wer e untied , an d reluctantly th e paper s whic h eac h represente d wer e picke d fro m th e pile . They were a sorr y lo t who face d th e Russia n commander, but-the-majority smiled an d blesse d themselve s tha t the y wer e no t connecte d wit h th e Associated Press . Col d winds tore through th e wreckag e o f the steamer , and wit h the ai d o f a flar e ligh t th e correspondent s rea d thei r writing s aloud. Th e punishmen t was great. A t th e conclusion, all were once again bound u p to the rail . "Zat wil l teac h you, " uttere d th e Lieutenan t betwee n hi s teeth , " not to writ e z e story o f ze Russians. Yo u will have z e opportunit y no w to writ e ze last time. " As he move d away , me n approache d carryin g bowls and ope n clas p

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knives. Th e correspondent s bega n t o sa y thei r las t words ; bu t the en d was not yet . " In z e bloo d fro m each, " spok e th e Lieutenant , "you wil l writ e ze apology." Indignation flashed from ever y eye . Withou t a wor d bein g spoke n it could be see n tha t there would be no apology. Eac h corresponden t wa s approached b y a Russia n holdin g a n ope n knife . A secon d ma n held a bowl. Th e ma n with th e knif e rolle d u p th e lef t sleev e o f his particular victim an d despite th e strainin g t o brea k th e bond s whic h the correspon dents put forth , an incision wa s made, and fro m i t spurte d a strea m o f blood which wa s neatly caught i n the bowl . Sharp-pointe d stick s an d a sheet of paper wer e then place d i n front o f each man . Th e righ t ar m o f each wa s released an d the comman d was issued t o write . N o on e budged . Agai n and again th e Lieutenan t ordere d th e pen s t o b e take n up . No t a mov e was made. H e becam e exasperated . "Men o f ze guard," he cried out , " form u p !" Twelve o f the marines , arme d wit h rifles , steppe d u p an d stoo d te n paces fro m th e boun d men. "Tree minutes,"—screeche d th e Lieutenant , "an d yo u n o writ e z e apology, I wil l fire . One,—Two,—Presen t z e arms— " Tree,—Fire! " Twelv e streak s o f livi d flam e leap t fro m twelv e rifles. I fel t a stingin g sensation o n the lef t sid e o f my head . I fell—an d awoke. My head ha d struc k against a trunk i n a cabi n o f the steame r Empir e then tossing an d tumblin g in a gale off Nagasaki. I pinche d and shoo k my self t o se e i f I ha d bee n dreaming . I had . Th e su n o f th e /t h o f February wa s streaming i n throug h th e por t hole . Th e crocker y wa s rattling a fe u de joie i n the pantry .

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Arrival o f th e firs t Japanes e soldier s a t th e gat e o f Pyn g Yang .

Photo by Rober t L. Dunn , Collier' s Weekly .

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February 8th . On th e momentou s nigh t o f Febr . Sth , 1904 , I wa s representing Collier s Weekly i n Chemulpo , Korea. Th e col d wa s intense. I n my heavy ulster I carrie d a magnesium flash lamp and alt its paraphernalia . Bein g the onl y photographer i n that par t o f the country , an d realisin g the valu e of the unprecedente d opportunity, I ha d fo r two week s been workin g wit h jerky haste to an d fro m Seoul , twenty-fiv e miles away . 'We wer e waitin g i n suspens e for tidings fro m Toki o o r Petersburg , but ha d learne d nothin g o f th e stat e o f diplomati c negotiations. There : was muc h suppresse d excitement , everyon e fel t tha t wa r wa s certain . For day s the harbo r o f Chemulpo was studded wit h foreign fightin g ships . About nin e o'cloc k a ligh t flare d a t th e entranc e t o th e harbor . Another an d another and stil l anothe r came , unti l wha t appeare d t o b e fifteen gigantic fireflies were see n bobbin g o n th e water . A s the y cam e closer 't o shore , w e realise d tha t thes e light s signalle d th e comin g o f Japanese transports . Everyon e i n tow n crowde d t o th e water' s edg e t o meet them . For ligh t t o land thei r thre e thousan d soldier s th e Japanes e seeme d to have filled pails with burnin g oi l whic h the y tosse d upo n th e water . These flickerin g light s prove d t o b e hug e torche s i n th e hand s o f soldiers coming ashor e in launches . Alon g th e shor e larg e bonfire s wer e lit and frequently saturate d with oil. Intersectin g th e lo g fires , hug e iro n tripods wer e erecte d wit h suspende d pot s o f charcoal . Thi s varie d illumination gav e th e tow n a brightness lik e daylight , an d coul d b e seen for miles . I t thre w a fantasti c -halo i n the heaven s and was intense enough to make fine print legible. While comin g ashor e man y troop s wer e frost-bitten . Seein g th e fires, they scramble d fo r a plac e aroun d them. . Som e leape d wais t deep

( 66 ) into th e ic y water , s o eage r wer e the y fo r th e . expected comfort . They were , however , soo n calle d t o orde r an d marche d shiverin g t o the adjoinin g street , ther e t o awai t the comin g o f thei r fello w soldiers . The excitemen t wa s a t it s heigh t an d th e troops , i n absolut e silence , were huggin g th e log fires, when a cry went up : •" The-Russians 1" It cam e fro m th e townspeople wh o had been frightene d a t th e flash of m y lam p a s I too k a pictur e o f th e scene . The Russian s wer e crowding , shoulde r t o shoulder , th e deck s o f their men-of-war , fro m whic h the y sa w th e passin g o f th e transport s and th e firs t landin g o f Japanes e troop s i n Korea . Non e realise d tha t within twenty hours many of them woul d be torn t o piece s by a n accurat e rain o f shot an d shel l fro m th e hidde n Japanese flee t whic h the n la y jus t outside the harbor . Few people , i f any, slep t tha t night , no r th e followin g night . Th e Japanese had come , ha d safel y landed ; "wha t next? " wa s hear d fro m every lip . Wishin g to se e the meetin g between the Japanes e an d Korea n soldiers at Seoul , th e capital, I hastene d ther e b y th e firs t train . Th e picture was alive with war. I fel t that th e inevitabl e clash wa s on. Soldier s were arriving , entering the gates , passing throug h th e city , an d line s o f Japanese schoo l childre n were masse d i n different section s to gree t them Following the soldier s I went to th e barrack s t o ge t a photograp h o f the great tiffi n whic h was to be served ther e a t noon. A t th e spok e o f twelve I aske d a n officer fo r permission to make the picture. A s I spoke , a dul l boom smot e m y ea r an d th e office r thrus t the crosse d forefingers o f his left hand into my face as he raised his righ t t o hi s ear. I n Japanese-Englis h he exclaimed ; " Russian-Japan-cross-hear-hear." As h e shoo k th e tightly clenche d fingers of his lef t hand i n my face , I hear d canno n again , agai n an d yet again . Th e gun s were booming i n quick succession , th e firs t gun s o f th e war , twenty-fiv e mile s awa y a t Chemulpo. The officer's word was sufficient; I forgo t the mess .

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Leaping into a jinriksha, I yelled to the kurum a tha t h e coul d hav e five yen i f he coul d ge t m e to th e railwa y station i n ten minutes. H e calle d two me n to hel p him and the thre e earne d the money. Bu t there was no train. Al l schedules , had bee n broken by the movement of troops. Ye t there was a mer e chanc e of seein g the battl e whic h I coul d plainl y hear—how madly anxious I was to see it may be imagined !—if I coul d get t o the Sa n Do station , seve n miles away , fo r th e train s fro m Chemulp o migh t com e that fa r and retur n immediately . My kurumas were tired out . I got another, the n another , an d inside of three block s had secure d five more, unti l I ha d seve n madl y hurryin g me throug h th e village , ove r froze n rivers , throug h heavil y ice-crusted rice fields, and, worst o f all, the grea t san d plains . I rode , the n I walked , then ran , perhap s I swore . F . A. McKenzi e o f th e London Daily Mail was accompanying me, but in the san d plain s I los t him. Late r I sa w him on the train , and knew that he, like myself,had overcome man y difficulties . A thousand dollar s could not charter a trai n a t Sa n Do, no t eve n a n engine. Ha d I been a Japanese, al l would have been well. Bein g a foreigner , even with money , ther e wa s no help for it but t o wait for the regula r train . In five minutes I discovere d that looking a t my watc h retarde d the move ment o f the hands . A t las t cam e the train . W e scramble d o n board , McKenzie and myself. I t was slow, disgustingly slow . Bu t w e got there . Once in Chemulpo, I ra n to the water' s edge where ther e ha d bee n hundreds of sampans. No w there wer e none . Th e Korea n * sampanners ' had taken t o the hills . B y persuasion wit h gold and a club I eventually go t four. Th e tid e wa s on the turn , floodin g strongly . I t wa s har d fo r m y heavily-manned sampa n to get t o the U . S. gunboa t Vicksburg . O n th e way out , I crosse d th e sizzlin g water s ove r th e explode d wrec k o f the Russian cruise r Koreetz . I clambe d u p the sid e o f th e Vicksbur g an d found n o on e cto welcome m e or sto p m e fro m boarding . Al l were watch ing the action s of the defeate d fleet. The Varyag , powerful a s she had bee n onl y a fe w hours since , rolle d with ever y wav e o f the incomin g tide. He r funnel s wer e perforated , hal f of the m ha d bee n completely torn away . He r deck s wer e strew n wit h

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wreckage. Ever y gu n wa s twiste d an d almos t completel y dismantled ; coats, caps, boots, her e and there a stra y decoration , wer e flun g acros s deck plate s alread y dye d wit h blood . Smal l light s appeare d almos t simultaneously over the ship . The y flickered , flamed , the n flare d int o a huge torch . On every foreig n shi p the bridge s and deck s wer e crowded b y thos e who knew that forty-two dead bodies were being cremated in that livid heat. The fir e seeme d t o hav e broke n ou t in the exac t spo t where the bodie s had been hurriedly placed b y th e fleein g Russians . A s th e su n sank , a huge torc h rose, its flames leaping highe r to prolong th e da y artificially . As darknes s approached— a darknes s which non e notice d and fe w com prehended—the Varya g tottere d an d leane d heavil y t o Port . A s sh e listed th e flames grew. In th e .midst o f this gigantic bonfire , hel d i n th e broa d harbo r o f a neutral nation , wit h men o f many race s fo r spectators, cam e the musi c o f the holacaust—th e detonation s o f exploding munitions. Th e magazin e was afire, and fo r lon g minute s w e watche d th e burnin g o f a seve n millio n dollar American-buil t warship . N o on e coul d lif t a h^nd . Wit h eac h move of the Varyag , hundreds o f eyes were cast at timepieces ; eac h spur t of flame, each detonation , each list , were accuratel y timed. The n cam e a cry, " See the Sungar i 1—She's aflame ! " Fro m starboar d t o port rushe d every ma n on the Vicksbur g to see the secon d bonfire . Then we saw a ghastly thing. A boat lef t th e Sungari an d in its wake the flame s sprea d fro m th e steamer' s pro w t o stem . Th e ma n i n the rowboat ha d fired her deliberately * Now th e Sungar i adde d he r pyrami d o f ligh t t o tha t o f th e Varyag . On every othe r shi p me n rushe d fro m sid e t o side , dazed , no t knowing what they did , callin g to others, " Look, see her burn." Abou t si x o'clock, the Varyag' s rai l touche d th e water , the n he r funnels , then—sh e disappeared. The Sungar i burned to the water's edge . Sh e san k a s the da y rose .

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The Cowbo y an d th e Rattlesnake. I woul d writ e of a large rattlesnake , a great , lumbering , half-wake d boy, a n early morning, , an d a chang e o f careers . I wa s th e overgrow n youth an d i t was th e rattlesnak e tha t gav e m e th e thril l of m y lif e an d converted a discourage d youn g cowbo y into an indifferen t reporter . I n my earl y yout h m y thought s and hope s ra n not to th e se a and piracy bu t to th e plain s of the Grea t West . I t wa s of the wild , free lif e of the cowbo y that I dreamed , and whe n i n fanc y I sa w mysel f I wa s astride o f a nobl e horse sweepin g across th e prairie . I wante d t o kil l an India n o r tw o and was not averse to closin g with bears. I made a lariat of the famil y clothes line and practise d o n the do g an d cat. Th e do g gre w unfriendl y an d th e cat abandoning the yar d becam e fon d o f th e roof . I stealthil y acquire d a revolver and spen t hour s perfectin g mysel f i n a quic k "draw. " M y indulgent bu t wis e parents watche d th e growt h an d developmen t o f this ambition wit h complete unconcer n and just when I ha d complete d plan s for running away the y tol d m e quietl y tha t I migh t g o and be a cowboy al l I liked. Ten day s late r th e casua l observe r passin g throug h th e Salina s valle y in Souther n Californi a migh t hav e see n a very sunburned , very sore , very subdued youn g cowboy mounted on a muchl y pinto-e d pon y followin g in the dust y wak e o f a ban d o f extremel y tam e cows . Th e Indian s ha d long sinc e passe d t o thei r happ y huntin g ground , th e bear s wer e dea d o r hibernating, an d gon e wer e mos t o f th e illusion s o f th e lif e tha t in fanc y ha d bee n s o picturesque . Th e countr y wa s parche d b y a successio n of drought s an d la y barre n an d desolat e unde r th e whit e sun. M y brothe r cowboy s did no t ai d m y fallin g enthusias m for the wild , free life . I was generall y require d to ris e first, eat last , and do the unpleasant chores . Whe n w e wer e bringin g cattle i n from th e hill s that

(7 0) extend lik e cape s int o th e valle y o f th e Salina s I i t wa s wh o rod e to the ridges , and when we were drivin g the sorr y beast s alon g the shallow , shifting strea m tha t i s called th e Salina s I i t was wh o rode i n th e cente r where th e quicksan d beds wer e numerous. In m y lonesomeness I trie d t o mak e friend s wit h my ugl y pint o horse, but h e wa s not be truste d ; h e wa s deceitful . H e coul d buc k beautifully , kick quickl y an d gracefully , an d bit e firml y wit h al l o f hi s teeth . He woul d lea d a decen t lif e fo r a tim e an d jus t whe n I bega n t o suspect tha t h e ha d reforme d h e woul d artisticall y demonstrat e tha t h e had not . Hi s gai t wa s not exactl y th e poetr y o f motio n an d whe n we jogged alon g w e generall y faile d t o jo g a t th e sam e instant . H e bucked an d shoo k muc h o f the wanin g ambition ou t o f m e an d prepare d the wa y for the comin g of the snake . The day-to-da y routin e o f ranch lif e wa s finall y broke n b y th e rode o or round-up . W e ha d t o pic k ou t severa l hundre d bee f cattl e fo r the market, an d bran d the yearlings— a task that require d days o f planning and preparation, an extra forc e o f men, and muc h har d wor k fo r everyone. A good round-u p is worth while . W e use d n o corrals/but hel d the cattl e o n the plai n in a great band . Th e segregatio n o f the bee f cattle wa s easy, it was th e brandin g an d ear-markin g o f th e yearling s tha t furnishe d th e excitement an d fun . Amon g undomesticate d cattl e thi s i s the yearling' s first touch o f civilization and i f he take s hi s medicin e easy h e i s distinctl y an exception . W e worke d i n gangs , par t mounted , par t dismounted . The firs t mounte d man threw for the foreleg s wit h hi s lon g noose d rope , and whe n h e ha d mad e good , th e secon d mounte d ma n thre w fo r th e hindlegs. Whe n bot h lariat s wer e fas t th e rider s starte d i n opposit e directions and Mr . Yearlin g was quickly extende d o n the ground . Som e of the fight s wer e grea t an d generall y afte r a n hour' s wor k th e entir e band was in a state o f stamped e constantly . The rattlesnak e cam e o n the mornin g of the secon d da y o f the rodeo . At th e clos e o f the first day I turne d in dog tire d an d passed awa y a s soo n as the blanket s wer e tucke d aroun d me. I t wa s not sleep, it was a trance . Next I knew, some unwelcom e hand shoo k m e and a voice said : "Kid, th e

(7 1) foreman's hankerin g for you." Sleep-sodde n an d unwilling , I crawle d ou t and donne d my cowboy uniform. A flickerin g candle lit up the bunkhouse . It was 4 o'clock an d stil l ston e dark . I foun d th e forema n workin g by the light o f a huge bonfir e nea r th e stable . H e wa s repairin g a saddl e and when I appeare d h e sai d sharply : "Kid , there's asterru p i n a soa p box unde r on e of them bunk s in there. Gi t it. " Still partl y unde r the spel l of the night' s trance , I amble d back to the bunkhouse, fished aroun d in the dar k fo r the soa p box , foun d it , and the n dug aroun d in the bo x fo r the stirrup . Th e small , flat box wa s filled with various odds an d end s and m y hand located everythin g excep t th e articl e I wanted . I finall y decide d to tak e th e box out to the fire and picking it up starte d out . I ha d hol d o f eithe r en d o f the bo x wit h m y thumb s downward o n the inside . On e thum b encountered somethin g soft , round , and flexible . I t gave unde r the pressur e of my thumb and I concluded that the bo x numbere d a piec e o f rubbe r hos e amon g it s contents . A s I reached the fire I leane d forwar d t o place the bo x o n th e ground . Ther e was a sharp rattl e and then somethin g cam e u p out o f that box an d struc k at my face. I crie d i n terror an d jumped backward just in time to avoi d a poisonous blow. M y piece o f rubber hose wa s a great rattlesnak e angr y a t the intrusio n of m y hand an d kee n fo r another blo w a t me . H e hardl y reached th e groun d befor e h e coile d fo r anothe r spring . Jus t a s he coiled , th e foreman , cool , courageou s an d resourceful , reache d hi m with a shor t stic k an d deftl y tosse d hi m int o th e blazin g fire . H e made on e last, desperat e attemp t t o rais e hi s head, but b y the fligh t o f a second the fir e wa s master. I cam e bac k t o the fire and silentl y watche d my enem y burn . Th e forema n wa s th e firs t t o speak . "Kid, " h e sai d and he measure d hi s words wit h th e deliberatio n o f a judge, "yo u cit y guys i s damn fools. " I wen t the rode o through , bu t fiv e day s late r th e statio n agen t a t Bradley, Montere y county , sold on e firs t clas s ticke t t o a city calle d Sa n Francisco an d the conducto r on the u p train that day punched the ticket .

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How Sout h Americans Fight . It wa s my goo d fortune—o r misfortun e accordin g t o th e poin t o f view—to take a hand tw o o r thre e year s ag o i n one of th e littl e borde r wars that sprin g u p periodicall y betwee n Sout h America n States , whe n they don' t happe n to be i n th e throe s o f a revolution . I wen t as a cor respondent; I staye d a s a soldier; I returne d as an invalid. There i s a prevalent impressio n i n Nort h Americ a an d Europ e tha t South America n wars ar e oper a bouff e affairs , th e scenari o an d plot s o f which depen d o n a comica l combinatio n o f a minimu m o f figh t wit h a maximum o f flight. Th e dramati s persona e ar e suppose d t o b e th e de faulting presiden t o f a republic , schemin g senoritas , loya l Anglo-Saxo n adventurers, a n angr y mo b o f bedizene d admiral s an d general s withou t followers, an d a n occasional poor supe r of a soldie r or a peon with nothin g but a thinking part. Such, at least, wrere my impressions and anticipations of South America n warfare whe n I first went down there . Wha t rathe r puzzle d m e at th e time was wh y th e newspape r tha t sen t m e di d no t prefe r a cartoonist . Perhaps th e los s o f a cartoonis t would be take n mor e seriously . Had I but clung to my preconceived notions I might yet have emerge d from Sout h Americ a as a literary humorist . As it turne d out , I took so sympathetic an interest in the domesti c infelicitie s o f the belligeren t partie s that I soo n becam e useles s as a correspondent , bu t all the mor e eligibl e a s a combatant . The trut h is , nobod y feel s muc h concer n abou t th e war s o f Sout h Americans excep t themselves . Th e onl y wa y t o stimulat e a personal in terest i n their affair s i s t o becom e on e o f themselves . Th e ful l forc e of this wa s borne in upon me one time when I ha d crosse d th e Sierr a Nevad a of the Ande s an d ha d paddle d ove r two hundred mile s of inundation to ge t

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to th e neares t cabl e station . Ther e I receive d thi s messag e fro m m y original newspaper sponsor: "Don' t cabl e mor e battles . Nobod y care s who wins." I

t wa s abou t this , time tha t wa r correspondenc e i n Sout h

America bega n t o pal l on me. Seen a t sympatheti c clos e range , Sout h America n war is distressing t o a degree . A s yo u tak e i n al l th e miserie s an d sufferin g i t entails on thousands o f poor people wh o hav e nothin g t o d o with the makin g of war you als o com e to perceiv e th e utte r wickednes s an d foll y tha t lie s at it s inception. A battl e whic h costs th e live s o f severa l thousan d harmles s country people, wh o have bee n dragged int o th e wa r very muc h against thei r will , may be oper a bouff e t o newspape r reader s i n anothe r country , but t o th e mother an d childre n of the slai n i t is very gri m reality. The wors t sufferers , invariably, ar e thos e wh o hav e leas t t o d o with the war,—th e women, the children , th e age d an d helpless, an d the foreig n traders. Yet , such ar e the soldierl y virtue s o f these peopl e tha t the ver y men wh o have 'nothing to gain an d everythin g t o lose , stand their groun d the mos t manfull y whe n it come s t o a questio n o f lif e an d death . Eve n the starvin g women at hom e shrink from lettin g a foreigner suspect th e ful l measure o f their distress . War i n South America , suc h as I sa w i t a t least , i s unrelieved by an y of the amenitie s o f modern warfare. Few , o r n o surgeon s accompan y th e troops, and ther e i s no ambulance corps. S o fa r from havin g ambulances, they hav e no t even stretchers" . Th e wounde d ar e suffere d t o li e where they fall , unti l their comrade s ca n loo k ou t fo r them. Morta l gangren e i s pne of the commones t sequels o f a wound. Th e neares t hospita l i s mostl y several days , journey distant. Eve n i f ther e wer e ambulance s they coul d not b e moved , a s ther e ar e no road s t o spea k of . Hence , ther e i s a minimum o f artillery, and that mostl y o f the^ lightest mountai n calibre. A s like as not the ammunitio n wil l not b e forthcomin g at the momen t of action. I remembe r one French artiller y office r wh o commande d a battery o f mountain gun s in the Andes . Whe n I cam e acros s hi m h e wa s serving

(75) his gun s without a range finder . H e tol d m e he ha d los t hi s glass a t th e beginning o f the wa r and had not been able t o find another. H e wa s ver y loth t o waste hi s ammunition a t lon g range , and at on e time had t o b e pu t under arrest by our commanding general fo r refusing t o searc h th e enemy' s position with his projectiles. Inasmuc h a s hi s suppl y o f ammunition wa s limited, there wa s some sho w of reason fo r his insubordination. The commo n soldiers , i n Sout h America , ar e rio t s o economical . They fire whenever their officers let them, without ever lighting their rifles . Only a few raise thei r gu n barrels to a level with their eyes. Th e favorit e method o f firin g i s i n volleys , th e me n squattin g dow n with thei r rifle s lifted barel y to the middl e o f thei r bodies . Naturall y almost al l the lon g range fire goes high . When th e enem y is engaged, firin g onl y become s generall y effectua l at th e nea r rang e o f fou r hundre d yards . The n i t i s deadly . Bu t th e issues o f battles are stil l decided i n Sout h Americ a b y stormin g tactics an d hand t o han d fighting . Eve n i n the fac e o f machine guns, o r agains t a well directed fire fro m behin d ston e walls , Sout h America n soldier s wil l charge straigh t u p to th e enemy' s lin e wit h a reckles s disregar d o f lif e that suggest s hysteria . I ha d a peculiar experience o f my own with a machin e gun, as handle d in South America . Whil e i n transi t fro m Panam a t o Venezuela , when our ship touched a t Savanilla , I watche d the m transhi p a Maxi m fro m ou r steamer t o their railroa d cars . Th e me n wh o wer e i n charge o f the gu n stupidly lef t behind all the ammunitio n that went with it. A t th e last minute, when w e were already warpin g from th e dock , I dre w th e attentio n o f our Captain to this. The n ther e wa s grea t excitement , an d th e boxe s were lowered i n haste an d sen t ashore i n a boat . Several month s afterwar d I foun d mysel f o n the deser t peninsul a Goajira leadin g a detachmen t o f Venezuela n soldier s i n a fierc e ambus h fight against th e Colombians . Durin g the fight, which was presently turne d into a rout for us, a solitar y machin e gu n gav e u s muc h trouble. Tw o infantry assault s wer e trie d o n i t wit h disastrou s results . Finall y I wa s dispatched wit h a remnant o f cavalr y t o tak e i t fro m th e rear . Screene d

(7 6) by a hil l and trees we succeeded i n doin g this . Th e gu n wa s taken wit h a.sudden rush and the briefest o f hand to hand fights . I t wa s the sam e gun that I had seen uploade d at Savanilla, and for which I myself , as it were, had furnished th e ammunition . Th e gu n was captured too lat e t o d o u s any good. Whe n th e fligh t cam e I coul d no t ge t he r acros s ou r flims y hanging bridg e ove r a mountain torrent . W e ha d t o throw the gu n into the water . Incidentall y w e als o ha d t o leav e behin d all our horse s an d pack train . Th e bridg e wa s cu t dow n onl y i n th e nic k o f time . Ou r heaviest los s i n kille d and wounde d had bee n during the infantr y assault s on th e machin e gun. Th e poo r fellow s ha d charge d u p within fifty feet of the gun . The elit e troop s o f Sout h America n armies ar e stil l the macheteros , the me n with the machete , who give the turning point to a battle , as di d th e

swordsmen o f old. Th e wound s that ar e inflicte d wit h the machete , which is nothing but a can e knif e shape d lik e a Europea n butcher' s cleaver , are ghastly to loo k upon . Anothe r favorit e weapo n i s th e pistol , mostl y a n American o r Englis h buil t revolver , bu t thi s is only carrie d b y officers . Spaniards an d Latin-American s ar e ver y fon d o f mother-of-pear l handle s for thei r sword s and pistols, bu t the y rarel y carr y mor e ammunitio n than ten cartridges . While i n the field, officer s an d me n hav e th e utmos t latitude in their uniforms an d accoutrements. On e ma n wil l wea r th e heav y broadclot h of the regula r parad e uniform , wit h heavy boot s an d cork helmet , whil e the next in line will have a stra w ha t wit h pyjama s an d sandals . I

recal l the

General o f a divisio n ridin g int o actio n i n an undershir t and th e lightes t o f sandals o n his bare feet . Hi s aide-de-camp, o n the othe r hand , was attired like a Cavalie r trooper, wit h hug e boot s comin g over hi s knees, a n ivory hilted Toledo blade hangin g from a silke n sash, a mother-of-pear l handle d pistol an d silve r spurs. Prisoners o f quality ar e stil l hel d fo r ransom , whil e common soldier s who ar e take n prisoner s o f wa r ar e simpl y enrolle d i n th e rank s o f th e captors. Th e fac t i s that th e belligerent s o n bot h side s ar e s o like eac h other i n looks , i n speec h an d i n unifor m tha t ther e i s sometime s n o

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distinguishing feature bu t th e flags . Som e o f these , even , are disconcert ingly alike. The onl y time that I recal l when the nationa l flags of both belligerent s were used , wa s whe n a colum n o f eleve n thousan d Colombia n regular s moved fro m Cucut a acros s th e borde r upo n th e stron g Venezuela n hill town Sa n Cristobal , where they kne w Uribe-Uribe wit h hi s rebe l refugee s lay hidden. Th e town , perched hig h i n the hill s as it is , wit h onl y steep , zigzag mul e path s approachin g it , wa s considere d impregnable . Whe n Cipriano Castr o mad e hi s famou s marc h fro m Cucut a to Caraca s h e wa s careful t o skir t aroun d San Cristobal. Thi s time, however , the Colombian s thought the y coul d take Sa n Cristoba l b y surprise . I n trut h the y cam e very nea r succeeding . I t wa s onl y th e desperat e rall y o f Uribe-Urib e and hi s Colombians , who , havin g al l a t stake , flun g themselve s int o an expose d churc h yar d i n fron t o f th e Venezuelans , tha t save d th e town. Th e roa d commande d b y this'churc h yard , behin d th e per forated wall s o f whic h Urib e mad e hi s stand , ra n u p t o i t wit h a double zigza g a t a n elevatio n o f nearl y twenty-tw o degrees . Havin g failed t o surpris e th e place , i t wa s th e sheeres t foll y o f th e Colom bians t o attemp t a fronta l attac k o n suc h a position . Ye t thi s i s what the y did , —not onc e o r twic e bu t hal f a doze n times . The y los t over eightee n hundre d men . I n th e en d th e Venezuelan s brought a plunging artiller y fir e t o bea r and , meetin g th e repuls e with a counte r charge dow n the stee p slope , drov e th e Colombian s of f i n pellmell flight . Had Uribe-Urib e followe d thi s u p wit h a stron g pursui t h e migh t hav e realised hi s long-cherished ambition to captur e Cucut a and th e ric h valle y around it . Such i s war i n South America . A s th e European s settler s ar e fon d of saying: I t i s all very wel l fo r th e American s t o clai m tha t the Monro e Doctrine ha s save d Sout h Americ a fro m Europe , bu t i s there no t nee d o f a stronger , mor e forcibl e doctrin e tha t wil l sav e th e Sout h American s from themselves .

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The Ha t an d th e Ha'penny . The penn y is a luc k piece, but th e ha t stoo d incidentall y for a piec e of luck. Th e penn y hang s o n m y watch-chai n an d i s on e o f th e tw o superstitions tha t ar e lef t me , the othe r bein g th e Sta r o f Theodor e Roosevelt. Th e ha t wa s not my own, and is no t now, bu t I wor e it onc e in the Kentuck y mountains , looking fo r th e owne r wit h anothe r purpos e than t o restore . H e los t i t through a bullet, but cam e near gettin g it in the sam e way , as well as the hea d unde r it, which was mine. The penn y came fro m th e han d o f a Kentuck y gir l o n th e da y I lef t for th e wa r in Cuba, and to this day she doe s no t kno w its story . I ha d n o superstition then , but I took i t as I woul d hav e cheerfull y take n poiso n from suc h a hand, and I pu t i t i n my pocket an d carrie d i t for th e sak e o f the hand , not for the powe r of the penny . I wa s at Cane y i n the morning , the blood y for d an d Sa n Jua n i n th e afternoon , an d I ha d on e o r tw o rather narro w calls—s o narrow , indeed , tha t to the penn y I straightwa y began t o pin my faith. On e day I wa s stretched ou t wit h fever , an d tha t same da y the penn y was gone. Tha t meant tha t al l wa s ove r wit h me , and I mean t that I woul d lay my bones in the shad e o f no sheltering palm , but wit h my fathers under the blu e grass so d of Old Kentuck . I escape d form th e hospital , got aboar d a troop-ship, painted m y yello w tongue re d when held u p in quarantine at Tampa, went delirious and unremembering t o the chief city o f the Commonwealth , and was picked u p walking the street s on a hot Augus t da y with a temperature—mine—o f 106 . Som e week s later I go t ou t o f a hospita l alive—alive , o f course , becaus e tha t goo d penny was not lost , bu t cam e bac k again . Of the thousand s o f men who passed alon g th e Sa n Juan trai l the da y I foun d i t missing, the on e of the thre e soldier s whom I kne w in the whol e army picked i t u p near where he sa w me lyin g last . Apparentl y h e car -

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ried it for months as a luck piece himself . Christma s dre w near. Probably , thinking o f his wif e an d childre n and friends , h e wa s le d i n thi s wa y t o think tha t the penn y migh t b e somebod y else' s luc k piec e an d perhap s mine. O n thi s many-thousandt h chanc e h e sen t i t wher e h e though t i t might b e sen t o n t o me . Thi s is simply theory. Al l I kno w is that on the followin g Christma s morning, a penny droppe d ou t o f a soldier' s lette r postmarked Vermon t an d that i t was mine. The ha t is another story , a s Mr. Kipling, I am sorr y t o say , ha s no t observed fo r several years . I wa s a membe r once of a volunteer polic e guar d i n th e mountain s of Virginia, a guard tha t ha d to tak e th e la w int o its own hands, an d from th e law never straye d a hair's breadth . W e ha d hange d Talto n Hall , w e ha d hanged th e Re d Fo x o f the Mountains , and we were no w after th e Flem ing Brothers—Ca l an d Heena n — outlaws. Th e law-abidin g natives , emulating our example , wer e helpin g us and hearing tha t they wer e likely to captur e them , L had gon e of f on my ow n responsibility to th e Pound , forty mile s away, to join them. Mounte d on a gra y mule , dressed i n the blue serg e an d broad-brimme d stra w ha t o f civilization , I joine d the m about fou r o'cloc k tha t afternoo n i n th e search . Ther e wer e wit h me , Doc Swindall , Ed Hall , Goose-necke d Joh n Branham , s o calle d fo r th e length o f his neck, and severa l othe r mountaineers . A s w e starte d ou t one o f the mountaineer s looked a t m y straw hat . " Hell!" he said, " they ca n see that ha t o' yours a mile throug h th e woods. I'l l gi t ye a hat. " He wen t inside his cabi n an d brought ou t a faded , shapeles s piec e o f headgear, an d I put i t on. When w e were hal f a mile out i n the wood s h e turne d wit h a gri n : " That's Heenan's, " he said, and the others laughed . Both th e outlaw s were hidin g wounded in th e woods , an d th e dog , gun an d hat o f on e ha d bee n capture d that mornin g ; s o I wa s wearin g Heenan's hat lookin g for Heenan . For tw o day s w e searched bushes , ravines, swam th e rive r bac k an d forth, trackin g those outlaw s throug h th e woods , nor woul d i t hav e bee n

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a health y piec e o f business had w e foun d them , as the y could , o f course , hear u s coming and would get i n the first fire. On th e thir d da y we spli t u p int o squads . Swindall , Goose-necke d John Branha m and two others wer e unde r me, and tha t morning , luck was mine. A t on e spot i n the woods the pat h forked , on e trai l goin g u p a spur and the othe r aroun d a side of the mountain , and we stopped there t o decide which path i t wa s bette r t o take . A t tha t momen t th e outlaw s were lyin g in a thick clump o f bushes twent y yards abov e us , wounded an d with thei r Winchester s cocke d an d aimed, waiting for us t o tak e th e pat h up toward s them . I ha d never see n Heena n an d he ha d neve r see n me . But h e kne w his hat, an d h e had i t most carefull y covere d wit h th e sight s on his Winchester , and the hea d unde r it, as well. The res t wante d t o g o u p the spur , but I decided , wit h n o reaso n then, an d no reason that I ca n think o f now, to tak e th e othe r pat h aroun d the mountai n side. The tw o lay wounded in a cave fo r tw o weeks , Ca l Flemin g lettin g ice-cold wate r dro p fro m th e roo f of the caver n on a frightfu l woun d in hi s breast, unti l bot h wer e wel l enoug h t o escap e i n women' s clothe s int o West Virginia. Ther e the y wer e capture d by E d Hall , Do c Swindal l an d Goose-necked Joh n Branham . Ca l Fleming wa s instantly kille d b y Hall . At th e sam e momen t Heena n sho t Hal l throug h th e bac k o f th e head , dropping him to hi s knees. H e wheeled , stretched Branha m ou t o n th e floor with a bullet through eac h lung , and Swindall wit h a bulle t throug h his neck . That lef t th e due l between Heena n an d Hall, who, with a lucky shot , blew Heenan' s • pistol fro m hi s hand . Heena n fle d int o a bac k room , an d finding no egress, cam e back t o th e doo r wit h his bloody han d aloft . " Well, Ed/ ' he said quietly , " I can' t d o no more. I giv e up. " I ha d lef t Heenan' s ha t i n the mountains . Tw o month s later I saw him i n the cour t room, thin and pale, and wit h the sca r o f a bulle t o n hi s chin, being tried fo r his life, an d I walke d u p to him . I

though t h e woul d

surely be hanged , bu t i f he wasn' t I wante d to be a s friendl y wit h hi m a s possible.

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" Heenan," I said , " did yo u eve r ge t you r ha t bac k ?" Heenan grinned . " No/' he-.said, ' •'•" Well, i f yo u com e clear, " go u p t o Dotson' s store , ge t th e bes t ha t you ca n find and hav e i t charge d t o me. " Now, throug h th e deat h o f th e witnes s o n whos e testimon y hi s accomplice, the Re d Fox , ha d bee n hanged , Heefna n actuall y di d com e clear. An d th e las t I hear d o f him he wa s riding out o f tow n o n a rriul e With hi s bab y i n fron t o f him , an d o n hi s hea d a bran d ne w derb y hat — mine. Th e exchang e wa s apparentl y satisfactory , for H-eenan neve r took the trouble to look m e u p again, nor have I eve r sough t ver y vigorousl y to mee t him. Two month s late r I wa s tellin g thi s stor y a t a luncheon a t a Ne w York clu b and m y mail wa s brough t i n jus t a s I finished . I n i t was a verification o f the tale— a bil l fo r Heenan's ne w hat .

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A Nigh t Attac k o n Boshof . It wa s a chill y experience, eve n for Africa. I t too k plac e a t Boshof , in the Orang e Rive r Colony , o n Novembe r 22nd , 1901 , durin g the Boe r war. I wa s with my regiment, the 4t h Scottis h Rifle s (th e Cameronians) . Colonel Courtena y (afterwards C . B.) was commandant o f the garrison . W e were waitin g fo r order s t o advanc e toward s Hopstad t an d Kroonstadt . Troops were scattere d al l over the town , even th e churchyar d bein g com mandeered t o hous e them . The y wer e cuddlin g under their canva s seek ing shelte r fro m a downpour of rain. My compan y was stationed a t th e mai n entrance t o Boshof , togethe r with G company , unde r Captai n Lynch . W e wer e hourl y expectin g another attack , an d were dyin g fo r another goo d brus h wit h ou r worth y foes. Not fa r from wher e w e wer e statione d wa s a strea m whic h flowe d around th e town . I t fe d a large reservoi r which the Dutchme n ha d buil t years ag o a s a bath, bu t i t had bee n littl e use d fo r som e tim e befor e w e occupied Boshof , for th e Dutchma n wh o too k pleasur e i n a bat h ha d seemingly passe d on . It wa s a bright moonligh t night. Th e croakin g o f th e frog s wa s th e only soun d which reached ou r ears , fo r thi s reservoi r wa s ful l o f thes e noisy jumpers. Othe r tha n th e frogs ' choru s we hear d nothin g bu t th e occasional lowin g o f oxe n o r th e grow l o f a regimenta l pu p an d th e occasional challeng e o f the sentries . I suggeste d a swi m in the reservoi r to Captai n Melville . H e a t onc e approved. W e strippe d an d lef t ou r clothe s i n a corrugate d iro n hu t clos e by, which a Kaffir ha d built for the us e of the troops when bathing. I plunged i n and upon coming to the surfac e hear d " the las t pos t " bein g sound ed. Th e las t note s ha d barel y die d awa y befor e a fusillad e wa s opened b y

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the Boers . A showe r o f bullets fell splutterin g into th e wate r al l aroun d us, chippin g off pieces o f the stonewor k o f th e reservoir . Th e pick-poc k of the Mauser s coul d b e hear d o n al l sides . Bullet s wer e whizzin g al l about fro m a rang e o f abou t a thousan d yards . W e los t n o tim e i n scrambling out. Capt . Melvill e reache d th e step s first . H e wa s struck i n the buttoc k b y a bullet and fel l bac k agai n int o th e water , bu t soo n re covered an d crawle d out. It wa s useless fo r us to thin k o f reaching th e shant y where our clothe s were, for the lea d wa s rattling against it s sid e lik e popping cor n i n a grid . We wer e i n a position tha t wa s far from pleasant , bu t ha d t o do something, so we dashed i n our nakednes s toward s ou r men . Poo r ol d Melvill e wa s bleeding fro m a n opene d wound , but h e insiste d that he wa s all right. H e shouted t o me ! " I'm all right Gloss y : I'm as right as rain. " He wa s running along twent y yard s t o m y left , an d th e bullet s wer e singing. Ther e was an uproar . Fro m al l sides w e could hea r th e soun d of galloping artillery , batteries dashin g alon g th e street s t o thei r position s at ful l gallop . Bugle s were sounding , rifles cracking, and alarm after alar m was soundin g al l over th e plac e a s compan y afte r compan y go t int o action. A s you ca n imagine, I was excited, an d reached th e trenc h wear ing nothin g bu t a broad smil e ; i n fact, I wil l no t eve n vouc h for the smile , for I thin k I was too scare d t o muster one . Naked, I took charg e o f my men in the trench . Th e Boer s trie d t o press hom e thei r attack a t th e nort h en d of the town . A t ou r sid e o f th e town—the East—thei r fir e thoug h troublesom e wa s intermittent. Thre e hours afterwards w e learned tha t th e enemy' s attac k ha d failed , thank s t o the skilfu l handlin g o f the garriso n b y Colone l Courtenay . You hav e n o idea ho w col d i t ca n get i n Africa i n the earl y morning, , and I shivere d a s we went fro m trenc h t o trenc h whil e th e engagemen t lasted. An d a s fo r th e Tommies , I was no smal l sourc e o f amusemen t to the m a s I ra n about lik e Adam, bu t withou t the proverbia l fig leaf. Finally, whe n the enem y dre w off , I borrowe d m y sergeant' s coat ; and cuddlin g up in it I rolle d ove r i n a trenc h an d slep t i n m y positio n ready fo r a renewa l of the attac k whic h never came .

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When I awoke the su n was shining and things wer e quiet . Later , I went bac k t o th e bathing—plac e t o ge t m y clothes , bu t the y wer e perforated al l too much to be o f any furthe r us e to me , and I congratulated myself that I was not in them whe n the y wer e perforated . Ha d I been, I should no t have been privileged to tell yo u this story.

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With Colone l Yankoff : A Balka n Episode . Like th e hollo w o f a giant' s hand , th e valle y la y gir t roun d wit h hills, grea t hill s that ros e majesti c i n their solem n splendou r ; flanked wit h black pine s and covere d wit h wondrous wreaths of snow , grim , gaun t an d grey they stood lik e sentinel s o f time, watchin g th e footstep s o f the passing years—God's outpost s amids t th e wildernes s of trees. Upo n th e topmos t height the sunligh t caugh t th e snow, gildin g the fleecy mantle with the sof t sweet flush of dawn. I n th e cu p o f th e valle y th e untrodde n carpet la y just a s i t fel l fro m th e Maker' s hands , white , stainless , ech o less an d still. . No patch o f brightness t o reliev e the sigh t bu t tha t pink hal o ridin g hig h around the ver y brow s o f the rud e cra g tha t frowne d unceasingl y upon th e world, all else wa s passionless ; dul l black , o r whit e a s winter . N o sigh t or soun d of life, n o tinkle of the herdsman' s bell , n o lowin g cattle , n o blea t of sheep, n o woman' s voice , n o maiden' s song , n o stron g man' s cheer y laugh, no baby prattle , onl y a ruine d hamlet , roofless , fire-scarred , an d stained wit h richer dye s tha n re d win e leave s o n boards o f pine, wit h her e and ther e a dea d ma n lyin g o n the ravishe d threshol d o f a hom e ; fo r th e shadow o f th e Tur k wa s o n th e valle y o f Mujitje , an d al l th e lan d o f Macedonia wep t fo r woman's wrongs. Five day s before , I ha d looke d upo n that hamle t smilin g to th e skies , a little patch of peace, untouched , unsoiled, by war . Then , childre n played before th e cottag e doors , an d granddame s sa t withi n th e shadow s o f the walls weavin g wit h old , def t finger s th e line n none shoul d liv e t o wear . Then, men , stron g i n their mountai n strength , carrie d th e fodde r fro m the hill s to fee d th e stalle d cattl e t o fatte n fo r th e market s i n th e spring , and peace , whit e winged, la y lik e a benedictio n on th e Christia n valley . Then cam e th e Tur k an d afte r hi m came this . Th e maiden s wer e upo n their wa y to Turkis h harems , th e ol d folk o r the littl e childre n wer e eithe r

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dead o r wanderin g homeles s an d famin e stricke n i n th e bitte r mountai n fastnesses an d Yankof f an d hi s ban d wer e lookin g dow n upo n the scen e with eye s heavy wit h the lus t o f vengeance. Yankoff, hal f mountaineer, half Viking, was the greatest fighte r whom I eve r looke d upon , grea t i n hi s physica l strength , grea t i n his lionlik e courage, grea t i n his lov e of home and country , grea t in hi s purit y o f soul, great i n the volum e of his hat e fo r th e foe s o f his country' s freedom. H e stood ther e a towering, frownin g figure , hi s immens e blac k bear d blow n by th e morning' s breez e acros s hi s chest , hi s carbin e clenche d betwee n hands tha t had grow n fro m boyhoo d aroun d weapon s of war ; gentl e as a matro n by the camp fire, tender a s any girl to a wounded comrade, kindl y and forgivin g t o a manly foe in the hour of that foe' s defeat , bu t a devi l hot hoofed t o th e assassin , an d the ravisher . A s I looke d int o hi s fac e a grea t awe cam e upon me, for I knew that I was looking int o the face o f retribution. The eye s tha t ha d twinkle d int o min e full o f mirt h a few hours before , were hard as an eagle's now ; the rnouth that had smiled so readily in welcome when I aske d t o b e allowed to attach mysel f to hi s band ha d grow n lik e a cleft i n a granit e boulde r ; th e flus h o n hi s dark , stron g fac e wa s lik e th e flush from th e half-opene d li d o f hell . H e turne d and spok e a fe w words to hi s men, and they , because they wer e weary with forced marching , thre w themselves dow n unde r the pine s and rested . Bu t eve n a s h e reste d ever y man's han d playe d wit h hi s yataghan, an d ever y ey e was turned upo n th e chief, an d ever y ey e aske d eloquentl y fo r vengeance.—A n hou r passe d by, and then out of a narrow pass tha t le d into the valley opposite wher e we bivouacked cam e a band o f Turkis h marauders , no t th e regula r soldier y of the Sultan , bu t Bash i Bazouks , fierce, untamed fre e lance s wh o hate d al l the Christia n world and woul d slay fo r the sak e o f slaying . Wit h a wave of his arm and a low , exultant shout , Yankof f brought hi s me n to hi s side . They crowded roun d hi m like hound s round a hunter, watchin g th e foe file into the ravine below. The y saw him throw his carbine down with the low, rumbling laugh tha t they kne w s o well , sa w hi m tos s back th e sleev e o f his mighty righ t arm , until the white flesh and the big muscles lay bare, sa w him dra w hi s big, curve d sabre from it s sheat h wit h a n upwar d an d out -

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ward swee p of his arm, and the n the y knew that th e hou r they longe d for had come , and eac h ma n bare d hi s steel . Then cam e a sound lik e th e soughin g o f th e sea , a soun d lik e th e rush o f win d through swayin g trees , a soun d lik e a rippin g gal e whe n the spum e of th e ocea n i s tosse d amids t th e shingl e o f th e coast , an d Yankoff an d his band were rushin g down the mountain's side like a torren t down it s bed. The y pause d not , halte d not . Leapin g ove r falle n trees , bounding over cleft s an d chasms , the y flun g themselve s upon the foe , and drove right throug h the m a s lion s driv e throug h deer . The n stee l md : steel, and yell answered yell . Chest t o chest , kne e to knee , han d upo n throa t the y fought , for the Turk wa s game. No w a sabr e flashe d i n th e mornin g light , no w a yataghan plunge d home with the low , deadl y unde r stroke tha t the Turk ish fighter loves, anon a pistol spoke, o r a carbin e bi t i n on th e clas h o f steel. " Allah il l Allah " rang ou t from infide l throats, onl y to be answered by th e battl e cry o f the mountai n men. Then cam e the rou t and th e vengeful lung e at th e back s o f the fleeing foes; th e appea l for pity an d th e deat h strok e fo r repl y an d m y da y wit h YankofT ended. M y mos t excitin g experience—well , yes, nex t t o a life long struggle wit h my creditors I think it was.

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A Mang o an d a Rumor . A fe w nights afte r th e figh t a t Sa n Juan, i n Cuba , I decide d t o mak e a hurrie d trip to Daiquiri , where th e firs t landin g o f American troop s ha d been made , for the purpos e o f photographing th e landing o f the sieg e gun s from th e steame r Orizaba . Daiquir i wa s abou t twent y mile s fro m th e front an d m y ol d frien d Jame s Burto n agree d t o g o wit h me . A s a n Englishman, I hav e ofte n pride d mysel f upo n m y walking abilities, and a twenty-mile wal k di d no t see m a grea t undertaking . Bu t unde r th e conditions then prevailin g in Cuba , i t wa s a muc h more difficul t fea t tha n I expected . T o begi n with, owing to lac k o f transportation facilities , ever y man ha d t o carr y all his belongings , an d a s m y camer a wa s my stoc k in trade I ha d t o loo k afte r tha t mor e carefull y tha n after m y persona l effects . What fe w road s existe d ha d bee n cu t u p b y th e heav y traffi c o f th e advancing army. Consequently , a s ma y b e readil y imagined , what wit h the mud , caused b y th e heav y rains , an d th e uncomfortabl e feelin g cause d by the alternatin g tropical shower s an d intens e hea t o f the su n tha t drie d you of f again , thi s wa s no t th e mos t agreeabl e wal k tha t I hav e eve r taken. We finall y reache d Daiquiri , onl y t o b e me t wit h a disappointment . The gun s ha d bee n transporte d o n differen t vessel s an d i t seemed tha t th e most vita l part was missing, owing to th e absenc e o f the particular steamer on which it wa s ; and a s th e gun s were , therefore , useless , they wer e no t unloaded. We the n conclude d to retrac e ou r steps , makin g a sligh t detou r b y way o f Siboney. W e wer e warne d no t t o d o s o o n accoun t of the man y sharpshooters sai d t o b e around ; bu t a s we both believe d thes e report s t o be exaggerated, we refused t o accep t th e advic e an d wer e abou t to star t back, whe n a few Spaniards wer e discovere d trying to ge t aroun d the bas e

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of the hill . Th e Cuba n Guard wa s immediatel y calle d ou t an d line d th e trenches, whils t we laughe d an d pooh-poohed , refusin g t o believ e i t unti l the gunboat Wasp, the n in the harbor , fired six shell s i n the vicinit y where the Spaniard s wer e suppose d to be . W e ha d t o admi t th e possibilit y of the fac t then . However , nothin g mor e happene d an d afte r a n hou r o r s o we insisted upo n leaving and walke d firs t t o Siboney . Here , to ou r hor ror, we heard th e new s that " Santiago ha d surrendered. " W e wer e i n a nice pickle . Imagin e m y feelings—Santiago surrendered and Jimm y Har e twelve mile s away. It was then nin e o'cloc k a t night . W e wer e s o tire d tha t w e could hardly mov e on e foo t i n fron t o f th e othe r an d w e ha d ha d ver y littl e t o eat sinc e morning . Ye t th e ' only thin g t o d o wa s t o star t of f again an d walk throug h th e night , whic h w e accordingl y did . Ou r pat h too k u s across th e hill s t o La s Guasimas , wher e th e firs t scra p ha d occurre d between th e Roug h Rider s an d the Spaniards . I a m almos t tempte d t o say, wher e th e Roug h Rider s wer e ambushed ; bu t Presiden t Roosevel t insists that the y wer e no t ambushed, and , a s h e wa s thei r Colone l an d I only a photographic illustrator , I suppos e that h e ought to know best. A t any rate , i t wa s an ideal spot for an ambuscade. Yo u were hidden from view by the heav y undergrowt h fo r a time ; the n suddenl y yo u cam e int o an open spac e an d coul d b e see n fro m neighborin g hill s fo r mile s around . To m y mind , it seeme d a ver y eas y thin g fo r a n enem y acquainte d wit h the countr y to hea d yo u of f and surpris e you. We walke d on , occasionall y lyin g dow n fo r a shor t rest , whe n th e hideous lan d crab s tha t infes t tha t par t woul d craw l around and ove r you . Some o f these crab s wer e s o larg e an d mad e suc h a clatte r a s they cam e through th e bushe s tha t w e though t severa l time s i t was a huma n bein g coming. Thi s continue d nearl y t o midnight , whe n suddenl y fiv e shot s were fired, not at u s but, judging fro m th e sound , not ver y fa r away. S o we decide d t o dro p dow n wher e w e wer e an d li e i n th e we t gras s until daylight. W e ha d not been lyin g dow n ver y lon g whe n a ball as large a s a basebal l wa s thrown at us . W e realize d a t onc e tha t thi s was a signa l of some kind . Ough t w e to thro w i t back, or wha t ?

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The sharpshooter s that w e had ridicule d al l day were a t las t goin g t o get us . Scannin g th e pal m tree s i n th e moonlight , w e coul d almos t discern the form s amon g th e branches . M y heart—althoug h i t seem s hard t o believe , a s I wa s lyin g a t ful l lengt h o n th e ground , still I am prepared t o swea r t o it—m y hear t cam e right u p fro m it s normal position into m y mout h and suddenl y fel l a t m y feet . W e whispere d a littl e plan of action, should we be attacke d befor e bein g shot , whe n another bal l was flung. Somethin g ha d t o be don e now , s o I crawle d u p to it , although expecting ever y momen t tha t i t woul d explode . I t looke d harmless , however, and I finally gathere d courag e enoug h t o touc h it, when I dis covered—it wa s a mango! W e wer e lyin g unde r a mango tre e and th e fruit wa s being blown down . Thi s di d not, however, account for the shot s that ha d bee n fired, so we decide d t o li e wher e w e wer e unti l morning , when w e continue d ou r tram p withou t havin g ha d anythin g t o ea t o r drink. Eventually , w e reache d th e fron t onc e more , onl y to hea r tha t Santiago ha d no t surrendered. I t ha d been merel y a rumor .

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The Break-Up . It wa s on e of those "goo d cam p nights," whe n the wolverine' s voice, blending sweetl y wit h the voca l effort s o f a near-b y lynx , softl y lulle d yo u to sleep . Our ow n dog s had complete d thei r nocturna l prow l an d wer e curle d up—as onl y the Esquimau x malamut e ca n curl—dreaming , n o doubt , of the pas t sle d day s an d the lon g blac k lash . Camped abou t a quarte r o f a mile from a wooded slop e (tha t ha d onc e been th e rive r bank), opposit e a willow patc h tha t mad e a n islan d in th e stream, w e wer e i n an awkwar d position i n cas e o f an ic e jam. We wer e ove r si x hundred miles u p the Kuskokwi m River—whic h parallels th e Yukon—waiting for the summer' s sun to set in motion the silen t water. Alread y th e surfac e wa s a serie s o f blow-holes, wit h si x o r eigh t inches o f flowing water, and w e expected ever y momen t to hea r th e cras h that woul d soun d th e warnin g note—the not e o f freedom fo r the fettere d giant. It wa s thus we went to res t o n that memorabl e night , afte r a har d da y of "dul l whipsawing," fo r our boat wa s nearly completed , an d w e ha d pu t in extra time o n the fe w needed botto m boards . Dreaming o f home faces , chunk s o f gold an d broke n lea d lines , we were rudel y awakene d b y th e expecte d crash , an d i t came lik e no othe r sound o n earth . Poppin g ou r head s throug h th e ten t flaps , w e called t o each other , and , even a s we di d so, the dog s too k u p the cr y an d yelpe d with al l their might , a s we scrambled ou t an d ont o the bank . Hardly perceptible, so slowly did it move, scarcely credible, so great was its power, as each successive tree o n our bank was felled by the tearin g edge of th e ancho r ice, scoring away th e ban k i n its majesti c course , craunching, grinding it s way, slowl y an d grandl y th e rive r moved ; with no w a pause of

C9 6) a momen t o r two, moment s of stifling suspense for us, with forebodings of a jam, breakin g in on the intermitten t uproa r that echoe d u p an d dow n th e river a s each lordl y spruc e wa s uproote d an d carrie d onward , vassal t o the powe r o f the river . Years ca n never efface , no r word s mor e vividl y portra y tha t momen t of nature's working—th e nigh t o f the "break-up. " Under th e allurin g light o f th e half-spen t moo n w e watche d th e onward flow ; slowl y i t rose , it s boso m upheavin g wit h a long-draw n shriek a s it burst an d thre w th e fragment s up, whic h pile d themselve s i n fantastic shapes , th e whol e surfac e becomin g a swirling , sliding mass , while beneath, the rive r quietly , forcefull y moved . As w e turne d an d looked a t eac h other , w e made a feeble attemp t a t a joke about a chee-chak o an d a sour-dough ; but i t wa s hard t o explai n our feeling s t o eac h other , s o w e crep t agai n t o ou r spruce-lea f beds, and thought o n the wonder s we had seen .

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A Tri p t o Ne w York a s a Steward. Although th e followin g i s no t a n experience o f a war correspondent , there was a time when I made the experimen t o f a trip t o Ne w Yor k a s a steward i n the steerag e o f a Whit e Sta r Liner , an d I hop e th e followin g may B e o f interest. It wa s a miserable we t mornin g at 5 a.m. whe n I lef t m y hotel, port manteau in hand, to join a White Sta r Liner runnin g between Liverpool an d JjJew York , as a steward i n th e steerage . A t 6 a.m. th e lis t o f stewards ' names was called over , and we were distributed to different part s o f the ship . We a t onc e commenced work, and as the great ship was being slowly piloted put o f the doc k int o the river , w e made preparations t o receiv e the passen gers, who were o n tender s i n th e rive r waitin g fo r us. A t 8 o'clock th e tenders c&jne , and w e took o n abou t 160 0 Swedes , Finns , Spaniards, etc . These were distribute d amongst th e si x section s o f th e ship . Thei r firs t demand wa s for breakfast, which was at onc e served. Th e foo d wa s served out t o the steward s at the cook' s galle y righ t aft , an d wa s carrie d t o th e different sections . I t wa s a sight, no t uncommon, to se e a stewar d strug gling along the slipper y deck, carryin g a larg e ti n of porridge, or a bucket of tea o r coffe e (weighin g perhap s 5 0 Ibs ) suddenl y dro p everythin g an d make a run for the neares t shelter , sometime s jus t in tim e to avoid a great wave and sometime s to o late , the n having to g o t o hi s bun k and chang e all his clothes . Perhaps a fe w line s abou t ou r dutie s woul d no t b e ou t o f place . We turne d out at 6 o'clock , ha d coffee , the n proceede d t o ou r separat e sections, where we laid the tables , and generally prepared fo r th e firs t mea l of the day . Abou t 7 o'clock we got th e foo d from th e cook' s galle y and by 7.30 a.m. wer e ready. Breakfas t bein g ove r w e went forward fo r our ow n breakfast. W e the n " strapped " u p an d stoo d b y fo r inspection b y th e

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Captain, Purser, Docto r an d Chief Steward . Dinne r came o n at 1 2 o'cloc k and was finished by I o'clock . W e ha d the n the afternoo n unti l 5 o'clock , to d o as we pleased, after which tea was wanted. Afte r tea was over another " strap up, " and inspection was again made. W e had then finished . Ther e were also night watches fro m 1 2 to 3 and 3 to 6 . Thi s wa s in case o f sudden sicknes s of passengers o r fire, etc. The nex t mornin g a t Queenstow n w e too k o n 20 0 Irish passenger s ; then th e fu n commenced. I t wa s rather amusin g whe n th e Iris h boarded . Some were rather " inebriated " and were very evidently celebrati•»• 'leaving the ol d countr y Cheer s fo r Ol d Ireland , Iris h jigs , wit h a frequen t ni p at th e whisk y bottle, wer e the rul e of the da y an d night , bu t whe n nex t morning came, as we had the n got wel l into the Atlantic , i t brought wit h it a muc h differen t sight . Her e an d there , dotte d alon g th e deck s wa s a sprinkling of the mos t prominent of th e nigh t before , lookin g s o pitiful an d mournful, an d helpin g t o "swell , the ocean. " I t wa s a sigh t t o se e th e avidity wit h which they too k a n orang e o r a lemon , hoping i t would cure that awful feelin g calle d sea sickness. Especiall y amongst the girl s was this most noticeable . The y seemed a s i f they wer e even incapabl e o f moving, and they certainl y di d no t loo k s o smart as when they boarded th e shi p in their gay dresses th e da y before; bu t I wonde r wha t the y fel t like , whe n along cam e some hardened passenger, smokin g a ciga r o r a ran k pipe , or when the camera fiend came along, sympathized with them, and then meanly took al l the photos possible of them. Tha t passenger must have a collection of photos that money would fail t o buy . I f seemed to th e mer e stewar d s o strange a scene—the night befor e s o jolly , everybod y lookin g s o happy , the nex t day , Oh , why did I leave Ol d Irelan d ? However this could not las t forever . I t soo n cam e t o a n end , an d the steward s wer e kep t bus y feedin g them . The n th e concertin a wa s again calle d into use, and dancin g by all was the orde r o f the day . Then th e Iris h passengers bega n t o intermix with passengers fro m th e cold barre n north, and man y a n Irishma n wishe d t o show , an d di d show, the big, strong, unwieldy Swede how to fight in " Ireland's way," an d many a contest was won and lost. The n the ladies' man came along and experienced

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the warmt h o f the Iris h girl , bu t h e wa s neve r sur e whe n th e Iris h bo y would com e along . Whe n he did come it was with wrath and hot jealousy, and then i t Was " look ou t " for the poo r ladies ' man . Afte r a fe w expe riences th e Swede s bega n t o be ver y diplomatic , and soon the y wer e al l to b e see n together . ° At las t on e night w e felt th e shi p stop, and heard th e ancho r chain rat tling. W e the n kne w we were outsid e Ne w York harbour , an d when w e all went o n deck an d sa w the lights o f th e entranc e t o th e harbour , we fel t sorry tb'"'" tri e morro w would end a mos t delightfu l an d interestin g trip. Next morning everything was hurry and bustle. Th e inspecting doctor came aboard, inspecte d all the passenger s an d crew , all those wh o had no t been vaccinated were at onc e operate d upon , all the holds disinfected , an d the shi p declared fre e fro m infectiou s diseases , etc . We the n steame d leisurel y t o th e entranc e t o th e Custo m House . The girl s wh o ha d looke d s o pitifu l suc h a short tim e befor e wer e all gail y dressed , an d everyon e seeme d pleased . Al l th e miser y they ha d experience d wa s forgotten , an d thei r onl y though t wa s the y had reache d Ne w York at last. The n nobody seemed to know where thei r luggage was , and the poor , hard-worke d stewar d ha d t o se t things right . Then th e gangway s were read y an d wit h a final cheer an d parting "the passengers went—t o mee t again n o one knows where and when. Thu s ende d a mos t interestin g experience .

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A Veld t Vendetta . " Giv e u s you r most excitin g war experience," sai d the Edito r o f this unique publication. Here' s mine . I nearl y died with the Iris h Brigad e in Natal. I t wa s my own fault. I discovere d a mos t bitte r feelin g amon g the Durban-Ligh t Infantr y toward s th e Dubli n Fusiliers . I investigate d the affair , an d kne w enough of the fact s t o take part i n the climax . I t wa s almost fatal . I t al l aros e fror n a truc k loa d o f beer . Amon g th e man y irregular corps raised i n Natal was the Durba n Light Infantry . On e o f the Officers wa s a Pietermaritzbur g .brewer. Tw o month s of hard fighting , i n fearful heat , convince d this malste r tha t Maritzbur g al e wa s preferabl e t o Frere Cree k water . H e consulte d his directorate, an d the answe r was two truck loads o f beer, consigne d t o th e me n of th e Durba n Ligh t Infantr y with the compliment s of the .brewery. Th e Durba n Ligh t Infantr y anticipated th e arriva l of the consignmen t and foolishl y boaste d o f thei r comin g feast. Two doze n hogsheads of the bes t Nata l bre w were sufficien t for a brigade. The y expresse d thei r intentio n of treating their pals i n the othe r corps, mostl y irregulars . Campe d clos e t o th e sidin g wer e th e Dubli n Fusiliers, commo n looters and much below the statu s of the irregular s in the eyes of the D , L . I . Squad s o f Dubs daily and nightly guarde d th e suppl y trains i n the switches . Bee r was as scarce as snow. Ever y hou r o f ever y day for over a week a Durba n Light Infantr y ma n examined th e incomin g trucks. " It's bee r they ar e looking for," sai d a Dublin sergeant, and next day ever y ma n i n th e regimen t wa s thinkin g o f th e affair . Th e facts leake d out . Th e Dub s als o awaite d th e bee r wit h interest . I t came one evening, when the Durba n Light Infantr y were on a reconnaisance. Before dar k ther e wa s not an empty sardin e tin or salmo n ca n in the cam p or on the creek, but they wer e no t sufficien t t o hol d th e content s o f on e truck. Th e cavalr y line s lent a score o f horse bucket s in exchange fo r si x

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pails o f th e froth y liquid. Ther e was wild hilarity in the Iris h cam p unti l long pas t midnight . A ful l hal f o f on e compan y wa s locke d u p by th e guard. Th e canva s gao l woul d hol d n o more,s o score s o f names wer e taken and when the sergeants failed t o get th e names they tnok the numbers from th e shoulde r straps . Te n Dubs , o n th e defaulters ' lis t woul d an y morning brin g fro m Colone l Cooper's lip s a severe repriman d to th e whol e battalion for its lac k of discipline. O n th e mornin g afte r th e bee r h e wa s faced b y 200 repentent and sorry looking defaulters . H e gav e th e lot pack drill for a week and stoppe d their stipend s fo r a whol e month . Whe n a squad o f the Durba n Light Infantr y calle d at th e sidin g fo r the cask s the y merrily wheele d away six filled with water from th e creek . A sergean t sa w the followin g chalke d on the truc k and h e lef t th e balanc e of th e consign ment. Th e couple t ran : — .'"To the Dea r Littl e Innocents. " " We lootin g Dub s ; w e stol e you r tubs of beer." " You were the mugs—s o pardo n u s our leer." This wa s the beginnin g of the vendetta . The brewer y hear d o f th e theft , an d the y replace d th e consign ment. B y this time the arm y ha d advanced to Colenso and again the Dub s guarded the railwa y sidings. Whe n th e secon d batc h arrive d th e Durba n Light Infantryme n wer e o n watch. Th e truck s coul d not b e unloade d tha t day so a sergeant and twelve men were sen t to guar d the m all night—with fixed bayonets. A t nigh t thre e officer s arrived . One , plainl y a majo r fro m the crow n on his shoulder strap, aske d th e Durba n Light Infantr v sergeant what he was doing there with such a guard . H e explained . " Fall your me n in and follow me, " sai d th e Major . H e too k the m down the ban k of the dar k Tugela , an d pointing to the othe r side , he whic pered, " Guard thi s for d wit h you r life . Don' t challenge , shoo t carefull y every ma n or beast which dares to cross. Yo u will be relieved a t midnight/' The sergean t an d hi s squa d zealousl y guarded th e stream . A t midnigh t the office r o f the roun d arrived . "Wha t ar e yo u me n doin g here?' ' h e said. Th e sergeant expk i led. "Ge t back to your trucks," replied the officer , *' and i f you hurr y you ma y sav e som e o f that beer. " The y wer e to o late .

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The Durba n Ligh t Infantr y wer e save d th e indignit y of wheeling awa y dirty water, but fo r the secon d time the Dub s wer e utilisin g err p'y tins fro m the rubbis h heaps and even horse buckets. Amon g the : oo defaulters paraded nex t mornin g was a Major' s servant. Th e charge s agains t hi m were : "" Drunk and disorderly , and furthe r wit h havin g stole n hi s master' s tuni c and appropriated th e sam e t o hi s own use. " The vendett a ende d wit h the departur e of the Durba n Ligh t Infantry , -but it proved nearl y fata l t o severa l other s beside s mysel f wh o kne w th e lacts.

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Treasure Trove . A subsidiar y problem in the grea t game , intimatel y associate d there with fro m tim e immemorial to infinitude , i s the thirs t question . The ma n whose trad e i s war, either a s a soldie r o r otherwise, ha s had — and always wil l have — many encounters with thi s comprehensiv e enertiy. This, doubtless, i n many people's minds , account s fo r hi s susceptibilit y t o the charm s o f Bacchus when the multi-coloure d libation s t o tha t hilariou s god are procurable . These remarks do not apply to amateur or induce d thirst, bu t t o th e hot-drawn genuin e article ; th e drough t whic h during and toward s th e end of th e da y commence s a t one' s lips , extend s throughou t th e whol e alimentary canal , permeates th e capillarie s o f one's extremities , givin g one the sensatio n o r impression of being a hug e bat h spong e wrun g out, hung up, an d forgotte n fo r al l th e summer , a tou t ensembl e provocativ e o f cerulean, if husky, profanity . Such wa s my stat e an d conditio n o n a certai n nigh t i n November , 1899. Th e figh t o f Modder Rive r wa s no t twent y hour s old , ye t th e yellow-brown dust y plain, wit h it s lin e o f gree n thor n an d mimos a bus h marking the river bed, stank with a stench almost tangible . Incidentall y I had fired over a hundred rounds, also th e eart h ha d suddenl y rise n u p and kicked m e as the ol d hors e fel l dea d wit h a bullet through hi s off-for e an d heart, ^nd I was one big ache. I ha d not reached th e river , and a "drink" of pea soup " water " ha d been m y only portion throughou t th e livelon g day. I wa s possessed o f a thirst th e memor y of which should liv e forever and be perpetuate d b y a colossal monumen t in the capita l cit y o f the real m of fantasy ; my lip s grow dr y a t th e remembranc e of it. Sunrise came at last , th e rive r wa s half a mile away and I rod e dow n towards it with the determinatio n to drink or " bust." Tha t portio n o f the

( 10 6 ) scattered hamle t lyin g o n the sout h ban k ha d forme d th e centr e o f th e enemy's positio n on the previou s day and ha d bee n subjecte d t o th e con centrated fir e o f ou r fiel d batteries . A n hotel , th e erstwhil e resor t o f Kimberley " week-enders," wa s a blackened, shattere d rui n ; it had lit the whole scen e a t th e tai l end o f the actio n th e nigh t before , and wa s no w a n agglomeration o f twisted, torn corrugate d iron , shattered walls , shot-rippe d trees, and litter indescribable. A blue-eye d bo y i n comman d of a patrol o f the Qt h Lancer s stoo d disconsolately surveyin g the wrec k a s I rode up , I kne w that h e an d hi s men wer e i n the sam e cas e a s myself. W e entere d wha t ha d bee n the bar and billiar d room : A shattered billiar d table , broken bottle s and glassware , burnt timber , seats , bricks , an d dust . " Nothing here! " h e remarked . Meanwhile, I sounde d the floor with my heel til l at las t I found—wha t I thought I shoul d find . I n most Sout h Africa n hotel s th e stoc k o f liquo r is-kept in a cellar located somewher e nea r th e ba r an d easil y get-at-able . Ripping th e remain s of linoleum aside I lifte d th e trap-doo r an d ra n dow n the steps . Bottles—bottle s with a red pyramid o n th e label , gold , yellow , red-topped ; bottle s o f all sorts an d shape s ! I climbe d thos e step s again , wit h difficulty . Th e scoffe r wil l sa y " that's easil y understood, " bu t fo r once he is wrong. I t wa s outside, righ t down to m y putties and around m y shoulde r blades. Armou r plated wit h Bass an d Clicquo t til l I coul d hardl y breath e o r walk , mountin g wa s difficult, an d I didn' t trouble the river; but ridin g back t o camp, clambering off with my load , th e glin t i n th e eye s o f th e boy s whe n th e whispe r " beer " ran—marconigram-like—throug h th e dust-dry mess i s a memor y which wil l live in the min d of

( 10 7 }

How I Wa s Nearl y Beheaded . Perhaps the mos t interesting ten minute s of my lif e was the occasio n when I wa s being tried b y a ver y irregula r drum-hea d court-martia l an d had ever y reaso n t o believe that th e separatio n o f my hea d fro m m y bod y was about t o be effected withou t superfluou s formality o r delay . It was in Northern Albania in the winter of 1878. Th e Treat y of Berlin had bee n signed , and by it s terms the town and district of Gusinje; had been ceded t o Montenegro . Gusinje— a dangerou s centr e o f Mohammeda n fanaticism—was a t that time th e headquarter s o f the Albania n League , a Mohammedan organisation , whos e aim i t was to def y th e arrangemen t that had been entered int o by the Grea t Powers, to obtain autonomy for Albani a and to resis t b y forc e th e cessio n of Gusinje t o Montenegro . S o Gusinje , though Montenegri n territor y by treaty , was occupie d by ten thousan d resolute Mussulmans , while Montenegro ha d a n equa l forc e encamped a few mile s off , just within he r frontier . Another journalis t an d mysel f wer e anxiou s t o visi t Gusinj e a t this juncture, so as to get i n touch wit h th e League . W e ha d ridde n acros s the snow-covere d mountain s fro m Scutar i throug h th e countr y o f th e Roman Catholi c Clementi tribe. Ni k Leka , th e Clement i chieftain, wa s ou r friend, s o we were safe wit h these wil d highlanders, wh o at that tim e wer e undecided as to whether they should join the League o r no, and so observed a stric t neutrality—tha t is , they use d quite impartially to cu t the throat s of Leaguesmen or Montenegrin s who came their way , so as to possess them selves o f the richly-ornamented , gold-inlaid weapons whic h man y of thes e people carry . After travellin g for three days we came to a lonely hut o n a high ridg e at the extrem e limi t of the Clementi country, whence we looked dow n upo n the tow n of Gusinje some thousands o f feet belo w u s and abou t tow hours ,

( io 8 ) journey distant . A n Italia n Francisca n fro m th e neighbourin g missio n station, Kastrate, accompanie d us as far as th e hut , an d her e w e awaite d the repl y t o a lette r tha t we had sent to Ali Bey, the leade r o f the Lea guesmen in Gusinje. Th e repl y was brought t o u s a t abou t midda y an d was thu s worde d : "I f yo u tw o peopl e wil l guarante e tha t th e Mon tenegrin forc e retire s withi n two days yo u ma y com e here. I f yo u canno t do this you had better no t come." Thi s wa s not reassurin g and the Fran ciscan, knowing th e way s o f th e land , prove d t o u s tha t t o procee d to Gusinje wa s to court certain death. W e therefor e decided t o retur n to th e Franciscan Mission , but befor e doin g s o we ate ou r midday meal in the hut . In conformanc e wit h th e invariabl e custo m o f th e countr y w e had handed ove r ou r weapons to ou r Albanian host, an d ou r rifle s an d pistol s were hangin g wit h hi s ow n upo n th e wall . W e wer e sittin g Turkis h fashion o n the floor, enjoying our roasted goat, our backs being turned to the. open-door, when I saw the faces. , of my host and , of hi s wif e chang e as if a sudden ^clanger had come , and on turning m y hea d I saw , fillin g u p th e doorway, abou t a dozen Bosnia n an d Albania n Mussulman s arme d to th e teeth. A s w e rose to our feet , several of them entered the hu t quickl y and. stood betwee n u s and our weapons. " Ali Be y i s willin g tha t thes e me n should com e to Gusinje," said their spokesman . " We hav e bee n sen t .to ^ escort the m in. " Then ensued , a curiou s conversation , the Francisca n translatin g th e Albanian tongu e fo r u s into dog-Latin , ou r usua l mediu m of intercourse. " This is ta trap," sai d he at last.," They d o not come from Al i Bey. The y have brought n o letter fro m him . T o g o with them means death. Bu t do not at onc e .refus e t o accompan y them ; argue th e question . Yo u are los t unless we gain time. " So we .carried on , a, parley unti l at las t the men waxed impatient ; for they abandone d the attemp t t o persuade us , an d addressin g ou r host, tol d him plainly that the y ha d been sent to cu t ou r head s off , a s i t ha d bee n discovered that we were Russia n spies . Ha d our dementi friends credite d this statemen t ou r positio n \\^oul d hav e bee n hooeless , fo r the y hate d Russians wit h a bitter hatred.

( 10 9 )

In m y best dog-Lati n I explained what we were. I t wa s an argument on whic h ou r live s hung . Soo n our . host, believing i n us , bravely took our par t an d declare d tha t w e wer e n o Russians . The n the me n fro m Gusinje talke d with one another for a little while and arrived a t a decision . They woul d kil l u s ther e an d then . Wel l d o I remembe r th e exac t words use d b y th e Francisca n a s h e interprete d thei r words : " O amid" h e said , " Multum es t periculum pro vobis. I lie homo dixit a d aliitm Nune es t tempus intercidere illos homines" Th e me n ha d thei r yataghans read y drawn , and some had their pistol s a t ful l cock . I thin k i t passed throug h th e mind s o f bot h o f u s Englishmen , a s we caught eac h other's eyes , that all that wa s left fo r us to d o was to make a Combined rush ? attempt the disarmamen t of one or two of the me n and at least mak e a figh t for it . But th e dela y tha t ha d been gained b y the protracte d parle y save d us . One of the Gusinj e me n without raised a warning cry, and lookin g throug h the doo r w e perceive d a Clement i highlander, rifl e i n hand, standing o n a rocky height har d by . H e mad e a sign with his hand and a look o f relief came to ou r host's face . " Cease this foolish tal k o f killing these men, " he said, " These Englishme n ar e the friend s o f th e Clement i an d w e wil l protect the m with our lives." A number of armed Clement i now appeare d on the sky-line , and the me n of Gusinje, realisin g tha t the y wer e outnumbered, sullenl y marche d of f through th e dee p snow . A " regrettable incident " occurred lowe r dow n th e pas s a n hou r o r so later. I was,told afterwards tha t ther e ha d bee n a fray, i n which two of our would-b e executioners lost their lives , the Clement i coveting the valuabl e weapon s whic h the me n carried.

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(III)

.0 Bleary an d wear y and drear , Half wa y between Heave n an d Hell, Is the desolat^, region M NOWHERE, Where th e unhapp y NOBODIES dwell. Nonentities only were they , Doing naugh t good o r ill in the World , And s o for their negative fault , To the NEGATIV E Limb o wer e hurled . O ho w can these poor soul s inhabi t A regio n s o utterly slow, Where lif e i s an endles s NEGATION, Existence a n infinite N O ! They sow the whirlwind s with NOTHINGS , Reap harvest s of impotent NOTS, Their sphere i s one vast NEGATORIUM , Where NEGAT E they i n separate lots . " We — the emptiest o f Zeros i n Space , Ye Gods, " they cry in distress , " Give thy suppliants some AFFIRMATION, If i t only be on e little YES ! " We have NONSENSE S only for senses ; For languag e w e have but a NAY .

( " 2>

O gran t us our portion of YESNESS, If it be but the ghos t o f a YEA! " In some World two NEGATIVES mak e An AFFIRMATIVE—scientists say (?) But two of our NO' s could not mak e one, Did they work for a year and a day. " Yet thou knowest that our NO's are the NOEST* Our NOT S are th e NOTTES T of NOTS J We are NOBODIES only, forgive u s For talking this rottest o f rots ! "

( '1 3 )

Saving a Column . At th e tim e durin g th e Sout h Africa n wa r whe n ther e were grav e fears tha t a seriou s rising would take plac e i n Cape Colony , I wa s attache d to on e of the flyin g column s operatin g unde r Genera l French . Every thing wa s sacrificed to obtain the utmos t possible limi t of mobility. Wheel ed transpor t wa s lef t behind , al l supplie s bein g carrie d o n pac k mules. W e marche d fro m befor e daw n unti l afte r dus k an d th e rout e was strew n wit h the carcases o f horse s tha t ha d succumbe d fro m shee r exhaustion. Hundred s of men wh o wer e thus deprive d o f mounts tramp ed wearil y along i n the wak e of the lightning-lik e column. Rapi d march ing, however , did 1- not rfiea n sever e fighting ; an d fo r nearl y tw o month s the enem y evaded engagemen t unti l i t seemed as thoug h w e were chasin g a phanto m foe. When i n th e mountainou s district o f Graft Remet , the scout s a t las t located a Boe r commando . Th e haras s o f th e marc h ha d b y thi s tim e played havo c wit h th e column , me n wer e wor n ou t an d haggard , an d horses wer e almos t incapable of any pac e abov e a trot . W e wer e indeed a tor n an d tattere d remnant , but th e realisatio n that afte r al l ther e wa s a n enemy t o engag e cam e a t eve n this, th e elevent h an d a hal f hour, as a refreshing stimulant . It wa s midda y whe n th e inciden t o f th e marc h occurred . Th e chief of the scouts , a Dutc h sergeant , came , gallopin g back t o th e advanc e guard with the information tha t Kritzinger' s command o was only te n mile s ahead. Me n wh o wer e almos t droppin g ou t o f their saddle s stiffene d u p at th e prospec t o f a " scrap," droopin g horse s wer e gentl y spurre d into activity, an d th e colum n set of f at a smar t pace whic h was something les s than a gallo p bu t somethin g more than a trot. Not fa r away wa s a loft y mountai n littere d wit h boulders eac h on e of

( M4 )

which gav e th e advancing army the impressio n that i t conceale d th e lurk ing enemy . Th e commandin g office r promptl y sen t forwar d a patro l of twenty men with orders to thoroughl y scou t th e surroundin g country. I accompanied the little forc e whic h wa s officere d b y a young lieutenan t who had wo n considerabl e distinctio n i n th e earl y par t o f th e war . I n skirmishing orde r we cautiously rode ove r a littl e plain flanked on on e sid e by a long , low-lyin g ridg e an d upo n th e othe r sid e bounde d b y th e mountain slopes . " It i s hardl y wort h whil e bothering abou t the ridge, " said th e officer , adding , "We'had'better mak e fo r the mountain . Tha t is the plac e wher e the Boer s wil l shelte r an d i t wil l tak e u s a lon g tim e t o thoroughly searc h th e land . Th e colum n i s no t fa r behin d and n o time can b e wasted. " S o w e abandone d th e ridg e o n th e fa r sid e o f th e column. A s w e approache d th e mountai n n o sign s o f th e enem y were visible . Soo n w e were toilin g u p th e stee p slope s waril y threadin g our wa y i n and ou t o f th e grea t ston e boulders. After a n hour' s stead y climbing , leadin g ou r horse s al l the while , we reache d th e summi t of the mountain , but stil l there wer e n o trace s o f the enem y that we knew wer e no t fa r away . Th e lieutenan t too k ou t his field glasses and intentl y scanne d th e country . Suddenl y h e excitedl y exclaimed : " I see them—look ! they are over ther e ! " A s he spoke he pointed t o the low-lyin g ridge awa y o n th e fa r side of the road alon g whic h column wa s marching . Her e la y waitin g i n ambus h a command o o f nearly a thousan d Boer s wit h rifle s read y sighte d t o pou r a strea m o f lead int o th e rapidi y oncomin g column . No w onl y a mil e separate d the tw o forces ; th e distanc e woul d shortl y b e lessene d t o withi n deadly range . Th e boyis h feature s of the lieutenan t pallore d wit h th e pain o f anxiety, fo r he realise d tha t the me n o f th e patro l having faile d i n their work must no w look dow n upo n a terribl e scen e o f carnage . Fo

r

a fe w moment s h e seeme d absolutel y incapabl e o f action , th e prospec t of impendin g disaste r havin g completel y overwhelme d him . Then recoverin g himsel f he quietl y gav e order s t o the patro l t o ope n fire o n th e advancin g colum n a s a warnin g o f dange r ahead . It wa s th e ster n actio n o f a genuin e hero , bu t th e consequence s

( U S) were disastrou s t o th e littl e patro l o n th e mountai n top . A

s

soon a s th e rifle s cracke d th e firs t volle y w e saw th e colum n exten d int o one lon g line , th e righ t flan k o f whic h speedil y secure d a commanding position o n th e rang e o f mountains . A heav y fir e encircle d th e littl e space o f groun d which w e occupied , and withi n a quarte r o f a n hou r th e shells pelte d th e boulder s around . On e b y on e th e me n o f th e patro l fell; soo n onl y a lieutenant , a singl e trooper an d mysel f remaine d o n th e mountain top . Bu t w e anxiousl y waite d an d watche d unti l th e Boer s evacuated th e ridg e an d fled in all directions. Then , wit h th e knowledg e that a disaster had not onl y bee n averte d but a victor y won , we went dow n the mountai n side , leavin g behin d the fe w me n wh o ha d bee n sacrificed in orde r that th e greate r numbe r migh t b e saved . While , however , th e stern ol d commandin g office r complimente d th e brav e youn g lieutenan t upon th e incisiv e actio n which extricated th e colum n fro m a disaste r tha t would hav e mean t annihilation , h e coul d no t repress a kindl y reminde r that th e dut y o f a scou t wa s to scou t ridge s a s wel l as mountai n tops.

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(H7)

" Waiting; Tokio , Marc h 21st , 0 4 Waiting i n Toki o s' al l ver y wel l But w e have ha d waitin g galore , No one's been her e less than twent y day s And many hav e bee n thre e score ; Waiting fo r " permits" whic h never arrive Waiting t o ge t awa y Waiting and loafin g and drinking and smokin g Honestly ( ? ) earning ou r pay! Some fro m England , som e fro m th e States , Others fro m "Furri n parts," Have collecte d her e fro m th e end s o f the eart h With th e sam e inten t i n their hearts. There's a sameness abou t ou r doings , There's a samenes s ~ about our -meals, There's a samenes s about th e depression, The depressio n tha t ever y on e feels . Jinrikisha driv e afte r breakfast , To tiffi n b y 'rickisha , too , " Any news at the Legatio n ? " " Only a letter o r two." Call at th e Foreig n Office , Cards o n your hostes s las t night , Look u p a " Jap friend i n the know " To hea r mor e abou t the las t fight.

(.118 ) You've littl e knowledg e o f " noospaper men, " And o f war correspondents , too ; Don't harde n your hearts a s Pharoah did , But le t the , whole lot see it through . Why shoul d you wan t to sto p u s ? We ar e no Russian spies ; We've com e in a friendl y spirit , From nation s with kindred ties. And it' s possible , too, tha t before the en d We'll be fightin g sid e by side , Put tha t i n your pipe and smok e it , Whatever els e you ma y decide . This ma y b e a war o f nations And you can' t affor d t o los e ; A frien d i n need is a frien d indeed . (If I'm speakin g too plain, you'll excuse.) But whe n all's sai d an d don e w e won't grumble, You've don e u s exceedingly well; A mont h o r two hence there'll b e feve r And "fu n " and fighting and Hell! So here's to ou r Tokio host s an d friends , And w e thank yo u onc e more and again, And man y a man will remembe r this time When he' s tryin g to-sleep in the rain .

(."9 )

R. T . P.'s. " Julius Caesar wa s seated o n a roc k writin g his message t o th e Roma n Senate. " Veni, vidi, vici," he wrote , and then paused . '" Great Caesar! " said the telegraph operator , "the censo r won't let you send tha t messag e through. " " Why not?" aske d th e great general . " Because," replie d the telegrap h operator , "i n the first place you say , ' I came/ thus betraying militar y movements. I n the secon d place you say, ' I saw, ' betrayin g a military observatio n ; an d in the thir d plac e yo u say , '1 conquered/thereby betrayin g militar y secrets an d puttin g the defeate d enemy i n possessio n o f a n importan t fact . An d besides , th e censo r will think tha t ' Veni ' is a code word. " "Then I a m not permitted to sen d a cod e messag e ? " asked Imperia l Caesar haughtily. " Not on your life, " sai d the telegrap h operator . " Then," sai d Caesar , " I wil l writ e a code o f my own. " Whereupon, Juliu s sa t down and wrot e th e Roma n Civi l Code . "Are you a Christian ? " aske d th e wa r correspondent o f the Japanes e whom h e wa s examining with a view o f engaging hi m t o b e hi s interpreter. " No," sai d th e Japanese. "Ar e you? "

AFTER MAN Y YEARS . A Wa r Tim e Pla y i n One Act . Time. 1950 . Scene. Verand a o f Imperial Hotel, Tokyo .

( 12 0 )

Characters. Captain Pa t Ma c Hugh. Sometim e wa r corresponden t fo r Britis h newspaper lon g ago bough t i n by Johnn y Morgan . Characte r heavy , wit h long whit e whiskers and bal d head . Frederick Palmer . Juvenil e lead . Also wit h lon g whit e whisker s and bald head . Wa r correspondent , but no t working o n the job . Bobby Collins . Expatriat e American working Reuter' s Syndicat e fo r all it is worth. Lon g whit e whiskers touching ground, bent wit h age, gou t in bot h fee t an d wit h cracke d voice . Curtain rise s an d discover s thes e thre e seate d o n piazz a drinkin g Scotch an d soda . Mac Hugh . (Strokin g bear d an d i n tremblin g voice. ) "Ah , 'tis no w forty-si x years , forty-si x years , sinc e I cam e ou t t o repor t the Japanese-Russia n war . Forty-si x years an d i t seems bu t yesterday. " Palmer. (Voic e cracke d wit h ag e an d leanin g heavil y o n cane. ) " Have yo u bought you r outfi t yet , Mac k ? " Mac Hugh . " Well, almos t everything . I don' t thin k th e outfi t I a m buying no w i s a s goo d a s th e on e I go t whe n I first landed. Bu t that ha s lon g ago rotte d awa y an d naugh t no w is left bu t m y patent folding bed. A h me , how time flies." Palmer. " Have yo u heard th e new s ? The y tell me at the War Offic e that w e are goin g t o ge t pas s numbe r 3456 to-morrow. " Mac Hugh , (wit h irritation.) " I am tired o f going ove r there all the time to ge t passes . Wh y don' t the y issu e one pass an d mak e i t good for twenty years? " Palmer. " Sh, not so loud. Remembe r th e secre t police . I ha d a hunch fro m th e America n Ministe r to-day—by th e way , he i s the grandso n of Griscom, who wa s Ministe r when w e firs t arrived—tha t w e woul d star t for Manchuri a some tim e next July. " Collins. "Manchuria , where i s Manchuria?" Palmer. "'Ti s where the wa r is going on. " Collins. " And what i s war ? " Mac Hugh , (lo w voice.) "Poo r ol d ma n ! Forty-si x years o f riding

( 12 1 )

back an d fort h i n a rickish a betwee n th e hote l an d th e Wa r Offic e hav e done this . H e ha s forgotten everything. H e think s he i s a rickisha. " Stranger jus t landed fro m shi p a t Yokoham a suddenl y walk s ou t o n veranda. Stranger. " Pardon me , gentlemen , but happenin g to overhea r you r conversation I thought I had best tel l you tha t th e Russian-Japanes e wa r was ended thirty-nin e year s ago. " Mac Hugh, (falterin g voice.) " Ended thirty-nin e year s ag o ! An d the Wa r Offic e neve r tol d u s 1 " Collins. "Rick-sha , plees mister , rick-sha." Palmer an d Ma c Hug h fal l int o each other' s arm s an d weep . Collin s hies himsel f for a rid e ove r t o th e Wa r Office . Musi c of Imperia l Guar d Band playin g fo r the Saturda y nigh t dinne r hear d i n distance. Re d fire . Curtain. Bright-eyed an d brave , h e wen t of f to th e war , But now by th e Yal u he' s lying ; Dead? you ask . No , but a wa r correspondent, Which accounts , you see , fo r the lying . THE NE W MANAGE R (E . FLAIG ) Will sel l at publi c auction, Field Kit s & Estates,

Left i n his hand s b y th e

WAR CORRESPONDENTS, Including al l th e article s name d below and man y others . Al l field equipment articles in prim e condition, havin g never been used . Article s include, patent foldin g bat h tub s (Maxwel l patent) ; paten t foldin g cam p cots; paten t foldin g cam p chairs ; paten t reversibl e doubl e bac k actio n

( '2 2 )

sleeping ba g line d with wool an d moths ; patent collapsibl e tent s ; Brill' s patent rai n proof do g shelter ; paten t sou p kettl e an d colla r box; paten t skittle an d was h bow l combined , ver y unique , Gordo n Smit h patente e ; revolvers; belts ; medicines ; chamoi s shirts ; flanne l shirts ; woo l shirts ; corduroy suits ; Egan's overcoat ; fiv e Melto n Prior pies slightly damage d ; saddles; blankets ; mirrors ; picture s an d mottoe s fo r tents ; glass ware ; Maxwell's patent mahogany burea u and dresser for field service with attach ment in back whic h properly approache d become s a pian o i n the daytim e and a be d at night ; ten t carpets ; fourdoze n seltze r syphons ; on e smal l notebook; thre e lea d pencil s ; tw o hundre d quart s ry e whisky ; fou r hundred quart s Scotc h whisk y ; spade s ; axes ; mosquito bar netting ; Ma c Hugh's quic k fire rifl e canno n arrange d t o b e carrie d i n belt bu t coul d be . mounted in rickisha; bedding; towels ; tooth brushe s ; boxes ; trunks ; field, rolls; ho t rolls ; tinne d meats o f all description; on e bottle ink ; tw o thou sand bottle s bourbo n whisky ; Davi s paten t fiel d furnac e fo r us e i n tent ; Palmer's paten t campaignin g sectiona l house , wit h fenc e an d garden ; Knight's paten t cam p oak tre e tha t ca n be carrie d i n a fiel d roll , se t u p in front o f tent givin g a comfortable shad e an d take n dow n all in two hours ; the Jimm y Har e paten t wel l borin g apparatu s insurin g fin e suppl y o f drinking wate r fo r washin g clothe s o n th e march ; an d man y othe r articles o f a simila r kind.

THE OPPORTUNIT Y OF A LIF E TIME . EVERYTHING WIL L B E SOLD . COME EARL Y AND INSPECT GDODS . DO NO T FORGE T TIM E AN D PLACE .

( 12 3 )

A Camer a an d a Journey I journeye d all day fro m Yokoham a t o Kob e t o catc h a steame r fo r Chemulpo, which last cit y is on the roa d t o Seoul. I journeyed al l da y and all nigh t from Kob e t o Nagasak i to catc h a steame r fo r Chemulpo. I journeyed bac k al l day fro m Nagasak i to Moj i t o catch a steamer fo r Chemulpo. On Monda y morning , in Moji, I bough t m y ticke t fo r Chemulpo, to sai l o n Monday afternoon . To-da y i s Wednesday, an d I a m stil l tryin g t o catc h a steamer for Chemulpo. An d thereby hangs a tale of war and disaster, which runs the gamu t o f th e emotion s fro m surpris e an d ange r t o sorro w an d brotherly love , and whic h culminate s in arrest , feloniou s guil t and confisca tion o f property, to sa y nothin g of monetar y fine s o r alternativ e imprison ment. For kno w that Moj i i s a fortifie d place , an d on e i s not permitte d t o photograph " land or water scenery." I di d not know it, and I photographe d neither lan d no r water scenery , bu t I kno w it now, just the same . Having bough t m y ticket at th e Osak a Shosen Kaish a office , I tucke d it int o my pocke t an d steppe d ou t of the door . Cam e fou r coolie s carryin g a bal e o f cotton . Sna p wen t m y camera . Fiv e littl e boys a t play—sna p again. A lin e o f coolie s carryin g coal—an d agai n snap , an d las t snap ; For a middle-age d Japanese man , i n European clothe s an d grea t perturbation, fluttered his hands prohibitively before m y camera. Havin g performe d this function , h e promptl y disappeared . 44

Ah , i t i s not allowed, " I thought , and , callin g m y ricksha-man , I

strolled alon g the street . Later, passin g b y a two-stor y fram e building , I notice d m y middle aged Japanes e standin g in th e doorway . H e smile d an d beckone d m e t o enter. " Some chi n chin an d tea, " though t I , and obeyed . Bu t alas ! I t

( 124 )

was destine d t o be too much chin-chin and no tea at all. I

was in the polic e

station. Th e middle-age d Japanes e wa s wha t th e America n hob o call s a " fly cop."

Great excitemen t ensued . Captains , lieutenant s an d ordinar y police men al l talked a t onc e an d ran hither an d thither . I

ha d ru n int o a hiv e of

blue uniforms , bras s buttons , an d cutlasses . Th e populac e clustere d lik e flies at door s an d windows to gap e a t th e Russia n spy . A t firs t i t was al l very ludicrous . " Capital to whil e away som e o f th e tim e er e m y steame r departs," wa s my judgment; bu t whe n I wa s taken t o a n uppe r roo m and the hour s bega n t o sli p by, I decide d tha t i t was serious. I explaine d tha t I wa s going t o Chemulpo . • " In a moment, " sai d th e interpeter. I

showe d m y ticket, m y passport, my card, my credential s ; and

always and invariably came th e answer , " In a moment." Also , th e inter preter state d tha t h e was very sorry . H e mad e specia l trips upstair s to tel l me h e was very sorry . Ever y tim e I tol d hi m I wa s goin g t o Chemulpo , he expresse d hi s sorrow, until we cam e to vi e with eac h other , I i n explaining m y destination , h e i n explaining th e stat e an d degre e o f hi s emotio n regarding m e and m y destination. And s o it went. Th e hou r o f tiffin ha d lon g gon e by . I

ha d ha d a n

early breakfast . Bu t my appetite waite d o n his " In a moment, " til l after noon wa s wel l along . The n cam e th e polic e examination , replet e wit h searching question s concernin g myself, my,antejcedents, an d ever y membe r of m y family , al l o f whic h informatio n wa s gravel y writte n down . A n unappeasable interes t i n my famil y wa s displayed. Th e remotes t relative s were haile d with kee n satisfactio n and placed upo n paper. Th e exac t ascertainment o f their antecedent s an d birthplaces seeme d necessar y t o th e poin t at issue , namely, the snap s I ha d take n o f th e fou r coolie s carryin g cotton , the five little boy s playing, an d the strin g o f coal-coolies . Next cam e m y movements since my arrival in Japan. "

Why di d you

go to Kob e ? " " To g o to Chemulpo, " wa s my answe r ; an d in this fash ion I explaine d m y presence i n the variou s cities o f Japan. I

mad e mani -

fest tha t m y onl y reason fo r existenc e wa s t o g o t o Chemulp o ; bu t thei r conclusion fro m m y week' s wanderin g wa s tha t I ha d n o fixe d plac e of

125

abode. I bega n t o shy . Th e las t tim e the state o f my existenc e ha d bee n so designate d i t ha d bee n followe d b y a thirty-day' s imprisonmen t in a vagrant's cell. Chemulp o suddenl y gre w di m an d distant , an d bega n t o fade beyon d th e horizo n of m y mind . " What i s your ran k ? " wa s th e initia l questio n o f th e nex t stag e o f the examinaiton . I wa s nobody, I explained , a mer e citize n o f the Unite d States ; thoug h I fel t lik e sayin g tha t m y ran k wa s tha t o f traveler fo r Chemulpo . I given t o understan d tha t by ran k wa s meant busines s profession .

wa s

" Traveling t o Chemulpo, " I sai d wa s m y business; an d whe n the y looked puzzle d I meekly adde d tha t I wa s only a correspondent . Next, the hour and the minute that I made the three exposures . Wer e they o f land an d wate r scener y ? No , the y wer e o f people. Wha t peopl e ? Then I tol d o f the fou r coolie s carryin g cotton , the five small boy s playing , and th e strin g of coal-coolies. Di d I stand with my back t o th e water whil e making the picture s ? Di d I stan d wit h m y back t o th e lan d ? Somebod y had informe d the m tha t I ha d take n picture s i n Nagasak i ( a police lie , and they spran g man y suc h o n me). I strenuousl y denied it . Besides , i t ha d rained al l the tim e I wa s in Nagasaki. Wha t othe r picture s had I take n i n Japan ? Thre e ; two o f Moun t Fuji, on e o f a ma n sellin g tea a t a railwa y station. Wher e wer e th e picture s ? I n th e camera . Alon g wit h th e fou r coolies carryin g cotton, th e five small boy s playing , an d th e strin g of * coalcoolies ? Yes . Now abou t thos e fou r coolie s carrying cotton , the fiv e smal l boy s play ing, and the strin g o f coal-coolies ? An d the n the y threshe d throug h th e details o f the thre e exposures , u p and down, back an d forth an d cross-ways , till I wishe d tha t th e coal-coolies , cotton-coolie s an d smal l boys ha d neve r been born. I hav e dreame d about the m eve r since , an d I kno w I shal l dream abou t the m unti l I die . Why di d I tak e th e picture s ? Becaus e I wanted to. Wh y di d I want to ? Fo r m y pleasure . Wh y fo r my pleasur e ? Pause a moment , gentl e reader , an d consider . Wha t answe r coul d

( 12 6 )

you giv e to such- a questio n concernin g any ac t yo u have eve r performed ? Why d o you d o anythin g ? Becaus e yo u wan t to, becaus e it is your pleasure. A n answer to the questio n " Why d o yo u perfor m a n ac t for your pleasure?" woul d constitute a n epitom e o f psychology . Suc h a n answe r would g o dow n to th e root s o f being, fo r it involves impulse, volition, pain, pleasure, sensation , gray matter , nerv e fibers , fre e wil l an d determinism , and al l the vas t fields of speculation wherein ma n ha s floundere d sinc e th e . day h e droppe d dow n out o f the tree s an d bega n t o see k ou t th e meanin g of things. And I , a insignifican t travele r on my way to Chemulpo , was asked this question i n the Moj i polic e statio n throug h th e mediu m o f a seventh-rat e interpreter. Nay , a n answe r wa s insiste d upon . Wh y di d I tak e th e pictures because I wante d to, fo r m y pleasur e ? I wishe d to tak e them . Why ? Because the act o f taking them would make m e happy. Wh y woul d the ac t o f taking them mak e m e happ y ? Becaus e i t woul d give m e plea sure. Bu t why woul d it give m e pleasure ? I hol d n o grudge agains t th e policeman who examine d m e at Moji , yet I hop e tha t i n th e lif e t o com e he wil l encounter the shade o f Herbert Spencer an d b e informe d jus t why , precisely, I too k th e picture s o f th e fou r coolie s carryin g cotton , the five small boy s playing, and th e strin g o f coal-coolies. Now concernin g my family , wer e my sister s olde r than I o r younger ? The chang e i n the lin e of questioning wa s refreshin g eve n thoug h i t wa s perplexing. Bu t ascertained truth is safer than metaphysics, and I answered blithely. Ha d I a pension from the governmen t ? a salary ? Had I a meda l of service ? o f merit ? Wa s i t an American camer a ? Wa s i t instantaneou s ? Was i t mine ? To cu t a simpl e narrative short , I pass o n from thi s sampl e o f th e ex amination I underwent , to the nex t ste p i n the proceedings , whic h wa s the development o f the film . Guarded by a policeman: and accompanie d b y th e interpreter , I was taken through th e street s of Moji to a native'photographer. I described th e location o f the thre e pictures o n the film often. Observ e th e simplicit y of it. Thes e three picture s h e cu t out'an d developed , th e seve n othe r ex -

127 7 )

posures, o r possible exposures, being returned t o m e undeveloped . The y might hav e containe d th e secre t o f th e fortification s o f Moji , fo r al l th e policemen kne w ; an d yet I wa s permitted to carry them away with me, and I have them now . Fo r th e peac e o f Japan, let me declare that the y contain only picture s of Fuji an d tea-sellers . I aske d permissio n to g o t o m y hote l an d pack m y trunks—in orde r to b e read y t o catc h th e steame r fo r Chemulpo. Permissio n wa s accorded , and m y luggage accompanie d me back t o th e polic e station , wher e I was again confine d i n the uppe r room, listening t o th e " In a momen t " o f th e interpreter and harpin g my one note tha t I wante d t o g o t o Chemulpo. In on e of the interval s the interpreter remarked," I kno w great Amer ican corresponden t formerly . " What wa s his name ? " I asked politely . " Benjamin Franklin, " cam e the answe r ; and I swear, possibly because I wa s thinking of Chemulpo, that m y fac e remaine d as grave n a s a n image . The arrestin g office r no w demande d tha t I shoul d pay for developin g the incriminatin g film, and m y declinin g t o d o s o cause d him not a littl e consternation. " I am very sorry, " sai d th e interpreter , and ther e wer e tear s i n his voice ; " I infor m yo u canno t go to Chemulpo. Yo u must g o to Kokura. " Which las t plac e I learne d was a cit y a few miles in the interior . " Baggage go ?" I asked . " You pay ? " h e countered. I shoo k m y head. " Baggage go not," h e announced. " And I go not," wa s my reply. I was led downstairs into the main office. M y luggage followed . Th e police surveye d it. Everybod y bega n t o tal k a t once . Soo n the y wer e .shouting. Th e di n wa s terrific, th e gesture s terrifying . I n th e mids t o f it,. I aske d the interprete r wha t the y had decide d t o d o and he answered, shouting t o mak e himsel f heard , tha t they were talkin g i t over . Finally, rickshaw s were impressed, an d bag an d baggage transferred t o the depot. Alightin g at the depot at Kokura, mor e delay was caused b y my •declining to leave my luggage i n the freight office . I n th e en d i t wa s carted

( 12 8 )

along with m e to th e polic e station, where i t becam e a spectacl e for all th e officials. Here I underwen t an examination befor e th e Publi c Procurator of th e Kokura Distric t Court . Th e interprete r began ver y unhappily , as follows : " Customs different i n Japan from America, therefore you mus t no t tel l any lies." Then was threshed ove r onc e again al l th e detail s o f th e fou r coolie s carrying cotton, the five small boys playing , an d the string o f coal-coolie s ; and I wa s commited, to appea r fo r trial next morning . And nex t morning , bareheaded, standing , I was tried b y three solemn , black capped judges. Th e affai r wa s very serious ; I had committed a grav e offense, an d the Publi c Procurator state d that while I di d not merit a prison sentence I was , nevertheless, worth y o f a fine. After a n hour' s retiremen t th e judge s achieve d a verdict . I was to pay a fine of five yen, and Japa n was to ge t th e camera . Al l o f which was eminently distasteful to me, but I manage d to extrac t a grai n o f satisfaction from th e fac t tha t the y quit e forgot t o mulc t m e o f the five yen. Ther e is trouble brewing for somebody because of those five yen. Ther e is the judgment. I a m a fre e man . Bu t how are they t o balanc e accounts? In th e evening , a t th e hotel , th e manage r o f th e hotel , a Japanese , handed m e a card, upo n which was transcribed. " Reporter o f th e Osak a Asahi Shimbun. " I me t him in the reading-room, a slender, spectacled , silk-gowned man, who kne w no t on e wor d o f English . Th e manage r acte d a s interpreter . The reporte r wa s very sorr y for my predicament. H e expressed th e regre t of twenty othe r nativ e correspondents i n th e vicinity , who , i n turn, repre sented th e mos t powerfu l newspaper s i n th e Empire . H e ha d com e t o offer thei r best offices , als o to interview me. The la w was the law , h e said , an d th e decre e o f the cour t could no t be se t aside ; bu t ther e wer e way s o f gettin g aroun d th e law . Th e voic e of the newspaper s wa s heard in the land . H e an d hi s fellow correspondent s would petitio n th e Kokur a judge s t o auctio n of f the camera , h e an d hi s associates t o atten d an d bid i t in at a nomina l figure . The n it would giv e

129 9)

them th e greatest pleasure to present my camera (or the Mikado's , o r theirs) to m e with their compliments. I coul d have throw n my arm s about hi m the n an d there—not for the camera, bu t fo r brotherhood, a s h e himsel f expresse d i t the nex t moment , because w e wer e brother s i n th e craft . The n w e ha d te a togethe r and talked ove r the prospect s o f war . Th e natio n o f Japa n h e likene d t o a prancing and impatient horse, th e governmen t t o the rider , endeavorin g t o restrain th e fiery steed. Th e peopl e wante d war , the newspaper s wanted war, public opinion clamore d for war ; and war the governmen t would eventually hav e t o giv e them . We parte d a s brothers part , and , withou t wishin g hi m any ill luck, I should lik e to hel p him out of a hole som e day in the Unite d States . And here I remai n in my hotel , wondering if I'll eve r se e m y camer a again, and trying t o find another steame r fo r Chemulpo. P. S.-—Jus t receive d a dispatc h fro m th e Unite d State s Ministe r at Tokio. A s a n act o f courtesy th e Ministe r o f Justic e wil l issu e order s to day to restor e m y camera. P. S.—An d a steame r sails to-morrow for Chemulpo.

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( 13 * )

Nippon Banzai . " Dai Nippo n Teikok u Banzai, " ho w th e cry recalls th e memor y of the mos t picturesqu e figh t I hav e see n — the attack o n th e Eas t gat e of Pekin by the Japanese in 1900. Soo n after daybrea k the y ha d endeavoured t© blow up th e gat e bu t th e Chines e fir e fro m th e gatehous e an d wal l was too hot . The n they shelled i t with 64 guns but littl e or no impression was made upo n th e soli d centurie s ol d masonry . General Fukushim a ha d determine d t o mak e anothe r attemp t t o blow up the gate as soon as the darkness would giv e cove r t o hi s sappers . The firin g ha d ceased , and we could see the operation s i n progress fo r th e final effort tha t was shortly to be made . Th e house s on both side s of the long stree t ha d by this time been occupied by the Japanese soldiers , and as darkness came on many of the me n lay down to ge t a little sleep , .and I had. just droppe d of f whe n I wa s awakene d b y a lou d explosion , quickl y followed b y another . I kne w wha t tha t meant . I t wa s th e gat e bein g blown u p at last . In a few seconds, outsid e th e doors, the Japanes e wer e passin g up at the double. Everythin g was awake now. Ther e they were running for ward with thei r " One, two , One , tw o " war chant . Th e Chines e had opene d fire again fro m th e wall , almost as hot a s that wherewit h the y ha d greeted . us in the morning. Th e Japanese had to get along by creeping close t o the houses o n eac h side . I t wa s a fine night, an d the moo n ha d just risen . There was no use in returning the Chines e fire . O n the y wen t o n both sides o f th e street , taking advantage o f every projecting corner. Gust s of bullets stormily swept down the street . The n th e me n halte d a t th e las t corner. Ther e wa s a broa d ope n spac e unti l the gatehous e itsel f wa s reached Th e fir e wa s ver y sever e o n the bridge. Th e Japanes e were pressed clos e t o th e wal l behin d ever y coig n o f protection . Bu t m y

( 13 2 )

goodness,, how the y di d enjo y i t ! v Ho w the y san g and cheered . 'I t wa s sufficient t o shout " Nippon Banza i " an d a ringing cheer answered. They went forwar d across th e open-spac e i n batches . I wen t with the rush of a lo t of them , an d di d a hundre d yard s i n m y recor d time . From th e hig h wal l abov e u s th e Chines e kep t firin g away . Ther e wa s deep shado w below outsid e th e walls , and whe n we got und® r the heav y gate there wa s protectio n fro m fire . An d thu s a corner of the courtyard was passed . Her e th e scen e wa s stirring and dramatic to a degree. Th e Chinese stil l kep t firing from th e hig h wall s above us , every shot makin g a hundred echoe s i n th e courtyard ; the whit e uniform s o f th e Japanes e showed u p eve n i n th e ink y shadows, and their fixed bayonets gleamed . There wa s a rattl e o f accoutrement s and o f steel upo n stone , an d all th e time the y sang . The final rush wa s through th e inne r gat e ; th e tal l massiv e woode n doors,bossed and studded with iron, had been blown inwards. On e o f them was stil l partly i n position, an d la y slanting downward s from th e top , the other wa s blown almost to the ground. Th e dee p circular archwa y of th e gateway overhea d mad e an ebony fram e fo r th e ivor y moonlight picture within. W e ra n along th e slantin g door, and as I jumpe d from th e en d of it to the groun d I almos t jumped on top o f a soldie r who was i n the ac t of skewering a Chinama n t o the eart h wit h hi s bayonet. H e squirme d an d wriggled lik e a wor m a s h e receive d pro d afte r prod . Th e corpse s of many Chiname n lay around. A tumul t of fighting had bee n here. Fro m the gate-hous e above , wher e th e Jap s wer e engage d i n a hand-to-han d •encounter with th e defenders , thei r progres s coul d b e followe d b y th e cheering an d rattlin g o f musketry . Graduall y it slackened , an d finall y ceased altogether. Th e grea t whit e street stretche d u p from th e gat e ; all the house s wer e roofles s and i n ruins a s far as could b e seen from wher e we stood. O n the to p o f th e wal l itsel f la y the corpse s of many Chinamen, and o n th e woode n floor s o f th e gate-hous e wer e many , thei r bloo d making dark pool s o n th e dust y boards . A badly-cla d lo t the y looked , yet the y ha d certainl y defende d tha t gat e wit h grea t stubbornnes s an d determination, as the Japanes e los s amounted to 22 0 men.

( 13 3 ) When th e Japanese had formed u p alon g the wal l the y appeare d t o muster abou t a thousan d men . Fa r ahea d o f u s t o th e right , i n th e direction o f the legations , a great fir e wa s burning . W e too k i t to b e a beacon light , probabl y kindle d t o guid e u s t o th e relie f o f the besieged . The Japanese marched briskly on along the wall, which made, in fact, a ver y -good well-paved^road , with a loop-holed pafffje t o n th e outwar d side , and here an d there embrasure s with dummy cannon. Ther e wa s a n immens e number of these soli d casting s i n the shap e o f guns all the wa y along th e wall. Thousand s o f lon g gingall s an d pile s o f modern rifles were lyin g scattered around. What a cit y of ruins i t looked i n the brigh t moonlight ! O n ou r righ t hand sid e there appeare d to hav e bee n a grea t conflagration . Ther e was hardly a roo f lef t standing , and onl y th e wall s o f th e one-storie d house s remained. O n ou r lef t ove r th e wal l the water s of th e moa t shon e i n a white silver y band, and beyond, th e leve l country stretche d awa y as fo r a s the ey e could reach. Tramp, tram p the iron-sho d heel s o f the soldiers ran g o n th e ston y road, an d every no w an d the n thei r bugle s sounde d alternately fro m on e part or anothe r o f the lon g line . Thos e far behin d sounde d lik e a silvery echo of thos e in front . A goo d effec t thos e bugle s ha d callin g to each othe r i n the clea r moonligh t air . Som e wa y on we met a Russia n picket o n the wal l and learned that th e legation s ha d been relieve d at three -o'clock that afternoon . The sunligh t of the followin g da y showe d us how desperat e ha d bee n the strait s o f th e besiege d an d ho w gallan t ha d bee n th e defence . The pictur e presented b y pal e ghostlik e littl e childre n wa s perhap s th e most pitiabl e o f all . Th e wome n looke d wor n fro m anxiety , wor k an d nursetending, Lad y MacDonald , for instance, bathing the feve r patients in the hospita l whil e Sir Claude directed th e military operations of the defence , in whic h he wa s s o abl y seconde d b y Colone l Shib a wh o commande d the Japanese .

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( 13 5 )

An Unpleasan t Choice . The editor s o f this volume hav e conveye d a suggestio n t o m e that I should writ e the m a n accoun t o f wha t I thin k th e mos t interestin g ten minute s o f my experienc e a s a wa r correspondent . I t i s not eas y t o comply wit h a deman d lik e that . Lookin g backward s I a m convinced that the pleasantes t perio d I eve r experience d wa s whe n I entere d a ramshackle " Eetkarnmer" o n th e Durban-Pretori a Railwa y th e morning I go t ou t of Ladysmith afte r th e siege, and sa t dow n to th e firs t reasonabl y decent mea l fo r fou r soli d months . Bu t tha t inciden t laste d ove r te n minutes and I d o not believe that the histor y o f it would be hal f as interest ing fo r others t o rea d abou t a s i t was for me to experience . Now ha d I bee n told t o writ e about my most unpleasan t ten minutes' experience, a s I inten d to do , I shoul d hav e ha d n o difficult y whateve r in making a selection . Ther e come s t o m y min d a spac e o f almost exactly that duration . I t ofte n come s there . I drea m abou t i t ye t some times an d it supplied m e wit h sensation s tha t I hav e n o sor t o f desire t o renew. I t happene d durin g the somewha t haltin g progres s o f the misunderstanding betwee n the Unite d State s and Spai n with regard to the affair s of the Islan d o f Cuba. I ha d bee n knockin g abou t th e Havan a Channe l an d the Carribean Sea wit h the America n Flee t fo r a coupl e o f month s in a ninety-ton , topheavy steam-pilo t boa t calle d th e "Sommer s N . Smith." Tha t titl e ha d been give n t o th e craft , I believe , fo r th e purpos e of conferrin g a limited amount o f immortalit y upon the geniu s who designe d her . Unfortunatel y for he r reputation , the vesse l turne d turtle at th e momen t of launching and drowned severa l people. T o remedy the lack o f stability thus disagreeabl y manifested a quantit y of steel rail s ha d bee n lai d alon g th e ship' s keel .

( 13 6 ) The dea d weigh t prevente d a renewa l o f th e initia l calamity , bu t i t also converted th e shi p into a fairl y stead y goin g pendulum , which the leas t bi t of a se a would set i n motion. Two months of unceasing wobble over th e wave s of the Carribea n Sea , together wit h the unusuall y large and particularl y lively assortment o f rats and cockroache s carrie d b y the "Sommer s N . Smith," ha d mad e m e ver y willing to join a detachmen t o f America n marine s wh o wer e landin g o n the swamp y shores o f Guantanamo Bay , t o secur e tha t inle t a s a coalin g station fo r the America n warships and incidentall y to seiz e the Cuba n end of the cabl e between Cub a an d Hayti . Th e chang e wa s no t greatl y for the better , bu t it was agreeable a s a n improvemen t upo n the " Sommers N. Smith. " Fo r a wee k o r s o w e pu t u p wit h th e inconvenienc e of Spaniards snipin g us from th e chappara l scru b on the hills and I ha d begu n to accusto m myself to th e mosquitos, landcrabs, sandfleas, variegated smell s and othe r delight s o f a Cuba n swamp in the rain y season , no t t o mentio n the Cuba n insurgents, who wer e th e bigges t nuisanc e of all. Ther e i s one of the editor s wh o wil l remembe r that delectabl e spot . One blazin g June day Dr . McGill , a frien d o f mine who wa s in medical charge o f the America n depot shi p lying in the bay, sen t m e a not e inviting me to din e and slee p o n board . "You ha d bette r com e b y th e wate r boa t tha t wil l put of f about fou r o'clock," sai d th e Doctor' s note , "becaus e w e ar e sendin g al l our boat s up th e Caimener a River wit h a landin g party a t sundown , and yo u canno t come later." Th e battleship "Texas " and the cruiser " Marblehead" were also i n the bay , an d they , too , wer e sendin g al l their boat s u p th e rive r t o search fo r submarine mines, so there woul d be n o mean s o f communication between th e shor e an d the depo t shi p durin g th e evening . Shortl y afte r four I foun d mysel f on board. A s I steppe d i n throug h th e carg o por t that wa s open on the mai n deck , th e Docto r me t m e an d casuall y men tioned tha t th e shi p ha d 170 0 tons o f ammunition o n board includin g some 200 ton s o f gu n cotto n fo r th e dynamit e cruise r "Vesuvius, " whos e pneumatic guns mad e th e night s hideou s throwing that explosiv e ove r th e hills towards the fortification s o f Santiago.

f 13 7 )

"It's a nic e livel y cargo, " sai d m y friend , a s w e picked ou r way through th e serrie d row s o f 12-inc h fille d shell s tha t covere d th e deck . " We'd hav e a nice, cheerfu l tim e i f a fir e brok e ou t while the boats ar e away. Ther e i s a fin e teemin g populatio n o f shark s wit h health y ap petites i n thes e waters , and a swi m ashor e afte r dar k woul d b e a ne w sensation fo r you." Well, I didn' t have a swi m ashore , bu t th e Doctor' s casua l remar k turned ou t a first class prophecy in every othe r respect . Afte r enjoyin g a capital dinner , oblivious o f th e potentia l earthquake s i n the hol d beneat h our feet , w e turned in shortly befor e midnight , an d wen t to sleep . I wa s dreaming tha t I wa s hom e agai n i n peacefu l England , fa r awa y fro m Spanish " snipers," mosquitos , landcrabs , Cuban s an d othe r tropica l luxuries, when I wa s awakene d b y th e las t notes o f a bugle. Fo r th e moment I thought I was on shore and I sa t up. A bum p against th e bunk above m e did three things all at the sam e moment . I t recalle d m e to th e fact tha t I wa s o n board ship , it mak e m e wid e awake i n an instant , and i t knocked m e flat on m y back , wit h a thunderin g pai n i n th e to p o f my i head. A fractio n o f a secon d late r th e bugl e ran g ou t again , and — Heavens! the bugler wa s blowin g " fire quarters" wit h al l th e strengt h of his lungs. If ever a bugler pu t hi s whol e sou l an d intelligenc e int o a bugl e i t was that man . Ther e wa s no mistakin g th e meanin g o f the sound . N o fire drill that eve r wa s held coul d inspir e a tithe o f the urgenc y an d terro r that the bugle r put int o that call. Agai n an d agai n hi s clario n rang out , and jumping from m y bun k i n m y pyjama s I dashe d ou t o n deck. A panting figure flew past m e in the darknes s an d yelled a s he flew : "Com e on lik e hell ; she's afire! " I followe d hi s directio n a s nearl y a s I kne w how, m y brai n crammed with the wildes t emotions. Would i t be better, I thought , to ris k the explosion , whic h I feare d would follo w th e fire, or tak e my chanc e with the evi l brutes whose ghastl y shapes i n scores were outlined by blu e lambent fires in the phosphorescen t waters roun d the ship? Ug h ! the though t o f the hungry sharks chilled my blood, and I resolve d t o stand b y the shi p while hal f a chanc e remained .

( 13 8 )

Better t o ris k th e explosio n tha n the hungr y maws outside . Following the sailo r of th e emphati c tongue , I race d alon g toward s the scen e o f th e outbreak . I t wa s i n th e cook' s galley , an d whe n I reached i t a torrent o f liquid fire was pourin g out o f the door s an d flowin g along th e deck . Th e coo k had se t about preparin g ho t coffe e agains t th e return o f the boats. Hi s fire did not burn up quickly enough t o pleas e hi m and h e ha d sough t to stimulat e it by pouring petroleum o n i t out o f a can . The fire ignited and exploded th e oil , settin g aligh t anothe r ca n that was on the galle y floor . I n an instan t th e whol e plac e wa s in flames . Th e blazing oi l poured ou t o f th e door s an d ra n alon g th e dec k i n streams of living fire. More quickl y almost tha n i t take s t o writ e about i t the read y sailor s had rigge d a firehose, and th e pulsin g engines , thei r throttles ope n wide, were drivin g a two-inc h strea m o f wate r int o th e flames . Th e blazin g oil crackled an d sputtere d fo r a momen t an d then , horro r o f horrors! it floated, still flaming, on the surfac e o f th e stream , th e wate r carryin g i t more rapidl y than eve r towards th e stack s o f shell an d packe d ammunition boxes o n the deck . Neve r hav e I see n me n toi l as the swarmin g crew, officers an d me n haule d an d lifte d t o ge t th e explosive s beyon d th e reach o f the flames as the oi l raced towards them. Franti c orders , empha sised b y strenuou s oaths, were give n to tur n of f th e hos e an d fo r som e seconds w e gazed helplessl y at th e paralysin g scene . Could th e fire not b e stoppe d ? Mus t we be either blow n to pieces, o r devoured by the greed y shark s ? Ther e seemed no alternative and I watch ed the yello w licking flames creep onward s toward s th e pile s o f ammunition. Ther e was one hope. Ou r engineer, as one inspired, shouted a n order to " Man the ash hoist!" Franti c fingers , workin g fo r dea r life' s sake , rigged th e shoot , an d fro m th e depth s o f th e stokehol e heapin g basket s o f ashes flew up. I t was our last chance. Wit h furious , but ordered haste th e inert ashe s wer e hurled acros s th e trac k o f th e advancin g flames . Th e burning oi l soaked int o th e dus t dr y as h lik e a spong e an d blaze d yet higher. Ye t i t seemed tha t it s speed wa s checked. Agai n an d again th e laden basket s flew up the hoist , an d almos t befor e on e coul d realise i t a

( 139 )

dam ha d bee n built across th e pat h o f th e flamin g flood . Woul d ther e b e enough ashe s i n the boiler room ? A minut e and it was clear tha t the fire could b e confine d t o the spac e roun d the galley , ye t anothe r an d th e dea d weight o f ash bega n t o smother th e leaping flames ; fiv e minute s and onl y the stinkin g ree k o f petroleu m vapou r wa s risin g fro m a black , greas y mound. The n th e hos e wa s agai n turne d o n an d th e whol e accurse d mass was swept into the sea . W e wer e saved . " Thank Go d tha t i s ove r an d past!" wa s the ferven t praye r tha t escaped ou r lips. Thos e o f u s wh o ha d nothin g mor e t o d o wen t o n deck and , as we leant ove r th e rai l i n th e cal m o f th e tropi c nigh t fo r a breat h o f air, w e watched th e water s swir l an d shin e where , here an d there, an d there—i n a scor e o f places—twenty-foot sharks , thei r hungr y sides aglow with phosphorescence, swa m round about us . W e shuddere d as w e watched and heave d agai n a sig h o f thankfulness. The n w e foun d time—and words—to sa y things about the cook .

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(141)

An Attemp t tha t Failed . After month s o f har d fightin g an d marchin g w e dre w nea r t o Johannesburg. Th e arm y unde r Lor d Robert s bivouace d o n the veld t and da y an d nigh t th e crac k o f rifle an d boomin g of cannon echoe d amon g the hill s that barred ou r way to the Golde n City . W e chafe d a t the delay , fearing tha t French' s cavalr y woul d b e the first to enter . Th e temptatio n to push o n was irresistible an d Donoho e o f " The Chronicl e " an d myself resolved t o mak e th e attempt . Eightee n mile s o f ope n countr y an d th e mines o f the Blac k Ree f la y betwee n u s an d th e foothill s abou t Johan nesburg. Shadows wer e creeping across the plain when we mounted our horses . Avoiding the beate n trac k w e struc k int o th e dar k hear t o f the veld t and moved swiftl y an d silentl y towar d th e hills . Si x mile s from cam p th e grass was on fire . Flam e girdle d th e eart h wit h a rub y zon e an d mad e the nigh t intense . W e kep t touc h wit h cr y o f the curlew . Th e ring s of ruby close d abou t u s and i n our ear s san g th e roarin g o f fir e an d th e crackling o f the bush . W e rod e o n til l th e chimney s o f the Blac k Ree f pointed gaun t fingers to the sky . Dismountin g w e le d ou r horse s alon g the edg e o f the ree f and , tethering the m t o a tree , set ou t o n foot towar d the fires that flickere d i n th e hills . Wer e the y th e bivoua c fires of the enemy? Tha t was the proble m w e ha d t o solve . W e crawle d onwar d until dark shadow s o f me n flitte d abou t i n th e circle s o f light—Boer o r British w e could not tell. Close r and close r we crept throug h th e stillnes s and blackness o f the night . A ma n swingin g a lanter n approache d an d hailed a comrad e i n Dutch . W e hugge d th e eart h an d held ou r breath ; then slowl y an d painfull y worme d ou r wa y down the hill . Convinced tha t Genera l Frenc h mus t b e threatening the enemy' s line of retreat an d tha t Johannesbur g woul d b e evacuate d i n a few hours, we

(H2)

renewed the attemp t befor e th e su n rose . Saddlin g fres h horse s w e rode out o f camp accompanied b y m y servant , a half-cast e wh o pleade d t o b e allowed to shar e ou r adventure. I t wa s stil l dar k whe n w e answered th e challenge o f the sentr y an d passed beyon d ou r lines—to o dark t o se e that William was leading a second horse—my favourite. Presentl y we stumbled upon som e horse s pickete d nea r a hous e an d attende d b y a Kaffi r wh o slept peacefull y b y their side . H e swore that the animals were his master' s and not those o f a Boer patrol. A t ou r biddin g h e thre w ope n the doo r while we stood read y fo r a surprise. Th e hous e was empty. Emboldene d by thi s proo f that th e enem y wa s not at han d w e resume d our rid e and in half an hour came in sight o f a solitar y stor e o r "winkle, " a s i t i s called i n South Africa . "Come back !" cried Donohoe, wh o was a few paces behind . A t th e door o f the winkl e stoo d tw o men , one o f them a n armed Boer . " If I do , they'll shoot, " wa s my reply and we rode steadil y on. Th e Boer disappeared an d there remaine d a Jew wh o received u s with manifes t constraint. "Any Boer s about? " I asked . " None," replied the store keeper . "Where's the ma n you wer e speaking with just now? " . " I hav e neither seen no r spoke n t o a sou l thi s mornin g except m y wife ; " and th e fello w summone d his wif e t o suppor t the He. Glancing beyon d th e gabl e en d o f th e buildin g I sa w a Boe r com mando riding leisurely toward us . "Who are they ? " I asked , droppin g my hand o n the holste r wher e my revolver lay. " Are they no t Boers?" The situatio n seeme d hopeless . Th e enemy—tw o hundre d o r mor e in number—wer e alread y preparin g t o surroun d th e store . Fligh t wa s impossible. "We must be made prisoners, " sai d Donohoe . "

My hors e woul d

not have a ghost o f a chance. " " There's no choice," I answered, an d trie d t o consol e mysel f with the though t tha t goo d " copy " migh t com e ou t of a siege o f Pretoria .

( 14 3 )

Another pee p a t the cavalcad e an d m y spirit s ros e wit h a bound. Th e Boers wer e stil l three o r four hundre d yards away and looked suc h peaceful , law abiding farmers . The y wer e th e las t peopl e i n th e worl d t o requir e the service s o f a Britis h newspape r correspondent . A t th e sam e tim e i t was borne i n upon m e that I bega n th e wa r in the sieg e o f Ladysmith an d ought not to end it in a siege of Pretoria . Moreover , if these gentleme n detained m e I shoul d mis s th e entr y int o Johannesburg . A s I wa s not familiar wit h th e Dutc h taa l i t migh t b e difficul t t o convinc e them ho w necessary i t was for me t o witnes s thi s histori c event . " I'm off," I cried. " I can' t b e any use here," and at the touch o f the spur my horse spe d lik e a bol t fro m th e lon g bow . I strov e t o kee p th e store between m e and pursuit. " You're goin g righ t int o them," shoute d Donohoe , who stoo d nea r the gabl e watchin g th e Boer s strea m roun d th e building . Ther e wa s nothing for it but th e roa d an d I too k i t o n wings . Willia m wa s no t far behind, for he feare d hi s forme r master s mor e tha n thei r rifles . Th e roa d dipped and gave u s a few seconds' cover . Thric e I turne d and looke d bac k upon a prospec t tha t seeme d brighte r ever y time , thoug h th e sunli t air hummed wit h th e angr y dron e o f wasps . Th

e son g o f the bulle t grew

fainter an d m y hear t wa s ligh t onc e more . O n an d o n we bounde d until the thunde r of pursuit almost died away and I fel t tha t th e dange r wa s past . But a cry fro m m y servan t brough t m e u p sharp . Hi s hors e staggere d and rolle d over—sho t throug h th e groin . No w I wa s gla d o f the le d horse. Willia m was on his fee t an d i n the saddl e lik e a strea k o f light ning. Te n minutes more and our self-respect bega n to return ; we no longer felt lik e criminal s fleeing from justice. Ou r horse s fel l int o a gentl e cante r as we talked o f the inciden t and cursed the unhapp y stor e keeper . "Halt!" Th e comman d ran g ou t shar p an d clea r a s th e crac k o f a Mauser. I stoppe d dea d an d looke d dow n the barrel s o f two rifles. A wild resolv e seize d me and I turne d instinctivel y t o the ope n veldt. Bu t the cr y of " Halt!" stil l ran g in my startled ear s an d the rifle s looke d ver y near—so near that I fel t th e chil l of steel o n my wet brow. Pretori a migh t not be suc h a bad place afte r all , and ther e wer e correspondents enoug h t o

( 14 4 )

describe Lor d Roberts ' entr y int o Johannesburg . I "Are yo u Boers ?" I

looke d again .

exclaimed. " No," replie d two me n in dirty khak i

and slouch hats. " We're Roberts'Scouts. " Five minute s later fifty troopers with Captain Mackenzi e at thei r hea d were i n wild chas e o f ou r pursuer s an d a n hour afterward th e advancin g columns wer e smartl y engage d i n th e neighbourhoo d o f th e store . A figure i n khaki seated o n a whit e hors e ridin g of f i n th e mids t of a Boe r commando was the las t I.sa w o f Donohoe unti l w e entered Pretoria . But befor e night , fate frowne d upo n me. M y hors e fel l int o a prospec ting hole , breakin g two o f m y rib s an d rupturin g a muscl e i n m y side . However, I entere d Johannesbur g on horsebac k two day s later , an d i n a Cape car t witnessed the captur e of Pretoria.

( 14 5 )

Wars Mercie s an d War s Satires . Of two officer s who m I kno w well, F. was quie t and modest t o a faul t > H. wa s fon d o f words an d himsel f to a fault . Th e bearin g of one mad e a heavy fire seem slight ; tha t o f th e othe r mad e a sligh t fir e see m heavy. F. ha d le d in many charges, bu t th e bulle t tha t cu t an artery i n his chest found hi m standing among a group of staff officers . " Is it bad ? " he asked softly o f the surgeo n i n whose arms h e rested . Hi s ebbin g strength , if not the surgeon' s " Yes, prett y bad, " warne d hi m tha t th e wors t ha d come . " Tell m y little wif e Go d bless her and good-bye, " h e said. Now , H . wa s also struc k in the chest—jus t afte r hi s lin e ha d scale d a n enemy's trench, of course. Wit h him , a s wit h th e other , th e rulin g instinc t wa s strong . " It i s fitting that I shoul d die in battle," h e said. " The H' s hav e alway s been brave. " A wee k late r h e wa s convalescent . Thi s wa s i n keeping with th e eterna l fitness of things, i f you will . F . neede d deat h t o publish his virtue s ; H . di d not. When Genera l Anderson advance d o n Sa n Pedro Macati , one Filipino alone retreate d i n order. Wit h a scor e o f rifles blazin g at him , he fel l bac k by stages, kneeling and firing carefully. " He's to o gallan t to di e ; le t him go," sai d th e General . Whe n h e ha d emptie d his magazine he remained in th e open ; all his comrade s had escape d int o the bamboo . Instea d o f following them, h e ra n t o the ban k o f th e Pasi g o n whic h ou r lef t guarded . Deliberate i n hi s calculations still, standing u p as boldly as a hammer thrower, he threw his treasured Mauser far out int o th e stream . The n h e jumped in and swa m strongly towar d the opposit e bank . Ther e wa s a crac k fro m the end of the line. Som e good shot, preoccupied with the game , had given sinister proof of his marksmanship. N o one knew the nam e of the her o who sank. Probabl y hi s ow n family di d not kno w how he died . Thi s guileles s little man , in all trust and courag e an d honesty , ha d practice d wha t h e ha d

( 14 6 )

learned a t drill an d wha t th e agitator s ha d preached . Soone r o r later , death wa s bound to be th e penalt y of his ingenuousness. I t cam e to him, at least , whe n h e ha d a n audienc e o f brav e me n ; an d i n that , fat e wa s merciful. His humbl e preoccupation with the wor k in hand was of the sam e order as that i n high place s ; a s that o f a Lawton. Talle r than any member of his staff an d ridin g a taller horse tha n any o f them, Lawto n heightened hi s dis tinction with a huge white helmet. " It is th e coolest helme t in the East; it fits m e like an old shoe," h e said . Besid e suc h considerations, the dange r of bein g a mar k was insignificant. Whe n the fire was hot he would remove his treasur e an d revolv e it slowly between hi s hands , the whil e he watche d his line . " You're saf e a s lon g a s yo u twir l tha t helmet, " I onc e suggested banteringly to him. No one wa s quicker to give or to apprehend a joke ; bu t no w he look ed at m e inquiringly. H e di d not know that h e di d twirl his helmet . We reasone d tha t mathematica l law s o f chanc e mad e inevitabl e th e death of one who expose d himsel f as constantly as did Lawton. W e imag ined hi m fallin g when , statuelike, h e sa t hi s horse i n the hea t o f action. O f course, h e was caught casuall y b y a sniper' s bullet . Th e merc y wa s that he die d instantl y and i n harness, as he ha d alway s desired. Apart wit h this sam e preoccupatio n which mad e Lawton unconsciously careless wa s tha t o f the artilleris t L. A corresponden t cam e an d stoo d beside the guns . " You'll get killed if you stay there," L . remarked calmly. The correspondent' s sceptica l laug h wa s cu t b y a Mause r bulle t through the throat . L . looked u p from hi s wor k fo r an instant. " I told you so, " he said , and went on pumping shells int o the enem y a s cooll y a s i f he wer e working ou t a problem i n ballistics at Leavenworth . You ca n never tel l ho w actio n wil l affec t a man . I

hav e know n one

who wa s most excitabl e ove r a n overdon e stea k o r a missin g piece o f baggage to be as cold a s ice in battle. I have known one who could bluf f with unchanging face i n a no-limit poker gam e to los e his head completely a t th e sound o f a bullet. I n a week i n th e roug h lif e o f camp or i n five minutes

( 14 7 )

in action you ma y ge t th e epitom e of human character. Th e marc h to th e relief o f Pekin g wa s a scalpe l tha t lai d quiverin g muscle s an d twitchin g nerves bare. O n the hardes t da y of all, when, unless moved by the gaspin g intake o f weary lungs, the powde r from th e tal l kowlian g and th e particle s of dust fel l straigh t a s dead weights to the ground , I was with th e America n contingent whic h lay panting on the roa d i n an interval of rest. I sa w one private i n his agony ou t o f shee r malignit y tur n an d strik e a comrade wh o was too wor n and dispirited to resen t th e blow . Almos t i n th e sam e mo ment I overhear d another man whisper to his " bunky : " " I've got a little water i n my canteen . Yo u nee d i t mor e than I do , Jim. " Thos e drop s were bot h th e mil k an d the champagn e of human kindness. Often grea t courag e amounts to a kin d o f hig h hysteria , which , in its extreme, ha s the effec t o f calm. Tw o dyin g me n wer e lyin g besid e eac h other on e night in the Philippines . " Well, we might a s well whistle as be sad," on e said. " Sure ! " th e othe r answered . S o the y mad e th e effor t which gav e thei r spirit s stron g flight ; whic h mad e deat h mor e terrible t o those wh o looked o n than to thos e wh o died. My ow n choice o f heroe s ma y be captious . Tha t comedy-tragedy i n which th e Greek s mistoo k a memor y fo r a strai n of heredity gav e m e two , an officia l telegraphe r an d a shepherd , whic h I shal l alway s cherish a s an antidote t o selfishnes s and pretense . The telegraphe r wa s a dry , wrinkled , littl e old man who spoke many languages (doubtles s learned in a garret ) s o modestly that , instead o f compliments, h e seeme d t o cour t criticis m fo r no t knowin g more . Onc e at Larissa , whe n th e clamorin g correspondent s berate d hi m becaus e he coul d not mak e on e wir e carr y al l their s a s wel l a s th e officia l dis patches, som e goo d ange l prompted m e to smil e on him and to sympathiz e with hi m as th e hardest-worke d ma n i n th e Peninsula . S o w e becam e friends. I sa w mor e tha n hi s straigh t nose . I sa w somethin g i n hi s character suggestin g th e day s whe n Greece ha d bot h philosopher s and so l diers. On e day , whil e he was bus y unde r shell fire , I aske d hi m i f he di d not min d the danger . " Mind the danger! " h e said . " I hav e m y duty. Whe n I take up

(M8) a ne w messag e I hear these noises ; but I am too busy to loo k out and see." If th e disputant s o f th e arm y o f th e caf e whic h marche d ou t an d fan bac k agai n had don e their day's work as well as he o r the ol d shepherd , the world might still believe that blood will tell through two thousand years— which signalizes the surviva l of a poetic tongue . I sa w the shepher d onl y twice. Th e firs t tim e was in th e crisi s of the battle o f Domoko. Bac k o f the Gree k guns , i n the rang e o f all the shell s that passed over the ridges where they wer e placed, I noticed , i n a moment when I lifte d m y eye s fro m th e spectacl e beyond , m y her o i n homespun driving his flock toward th e rear . He , too , ha d n o tim e to loo k ou t and see. H e wa s as intense with the business in hand as a speculator who sees his fortun e ris e and fal l wit h the quotation s of the stoc k ticker . A burstin g shell hid him i n dust , bu t h e reappeare d an d brough t hi s scattere d ewe s together. Th e grea t gam e o f th e battl e wa s forgotten . N o matter ho w many soldier s fell, I ha d eye s onl y for him til l he an d his property were ou t of danger . The nex t morning , whe n Homer' s su n ros e o n th e chao s o f retreat gorging the pas s fro m Domok o t o Lamia , I sa w the shepher d again . H e was carrying a lamb unde r either arm. Th e Irregular s had taken th e rest . In their merc y they ma y hav e listene d t o hi s ple a that h e migh t kee p th e ancestors o f a ne w flock . Later, i n Lamia, I overhear d a staf f office r scoldin g the breakfastless , dinnerless, supperless little ol d ^telegrapher. I kne w this office r well . I n the day s o f mobilizationlhe ha d boasted tha t he would kill a hundre d Turk s with hi s ow n hand,; bu t whe n the^war came and the ol d fear of their masters gripped the subjec t race of yesterday, h e had shown that he was afraid o f fire. " It has been a grand downfall," he said gaily, as if that wer e something to b e proud of . " It ha s illustrated th e diversit y of human natur e and the helplessness of lambs," I thought .

( 14 9 )

The Wa r an d th e Walker . A small , condense d wa r wa s fough t i n th e southeaster n corne r o f Europe seve n year s ago . I t wa s fought an d finished in less time tha n th e Campaign o f th e Imperia l Hote l ha s occupied . Thi s wa s annoying , especially t o correspondent s who missed steame r connection s an d t o on e of th e militar y attaches , whos e ne w unifor m wa s no t finished before th e treaty of peace wa s signed . The principa l annoyance , however , wa s th e grea t regularit y o f th e retreats indulge d i n b y th e lesse r combatant . It s arm y wa s neve r to o fatigued t o fal l back . A penchan t fo r nigh t retirements , couple d wit h cheerful disregar d fo r tire d correspondent s wh o joine d thes e ingloriou s processions, made the plain s of Thessaly anythin g but a pleasur e resor t fo r the chronicler s of events. It wa s this stat e o f affairs whic h resulte d in my remarkabl e recor d a s a pedestrian . I n the walkin g match fro m Domoko s t o Molos , b y wa y o l Furka Pass, Lamia and Thermopolyae, I wa s easily amongst th e first . A number o f other s als o walke d an d a fe w enviou s person s are incline d to dispute m y claim s for a medal. I ma y as well tell you , however , tha t m y chief critic, wh o wrote and retreate d fo r a Copenhage n paper— I forge t hi s name bu t remembe r hi s beard—wa s deficien t i n the matte r o f legs. H e had the ful l numbe r but they wer e no t a s lon g a s som e other s I migh t mention, I fee l tha t I am entitled to a meda l fo r th e Domokos-Molo s go-as you-please event . I f His Helleni c Majest y takes an y interes t i n athletic s he wil l consider m y case. The Greek s sa t dow n a t Domoko s afte r th e usua l hurried excursion southward—this time from Pharsala—t o tak e breat h an d t o thin k thing s

{-'•so;) over. Th e industriou s arm y o f Edhe m Pasha , followin g th e sam e trail , also sa t dow n and declare d a well earned holiday . We, i n Domokos, could se e the whit e tented cit y o f the enemy , fa r to the lef t acros s th e plain . Th e enem y attende d strictl y t o th e Feas t of Ramadan, however, and gave n o heed t o th e Greek s i n th e hills . Mean while we mended ou r boots and mad e inquirie s as to th e stat e o f the road s in our rear . One brigh t morning,—Ma y seventeenth—th e Turk s finishe d thei r Bank Holida y diversion s an d resume d th e pleasure s o f th e chase . W e saw them fro m th e hillto p trenche s abov e Domokos , leisurel y spreadin g across th e . green plain,—horse , foo t an d guns , an d methodicall y firin g each deserte d villag e as they advanced . The bal l opened a t hig h noo n an d continue d unti l moonrise . Th e Greeks fough t well . I t wa s a very spectacula r performance an d fro m ou r seats i n the galler y w e had a splendi d panorama spread befor e us , I photographe d freel y an d a t nightfal l wen t bac k int o th e tow n t o Snatch a few hours, sleep befor e th e battl e wa s resumed. Th e Greejc s were bringing in their wounded . Everyon e wa s i n hig h spirits . Th e variou s disasters that woul d befall th e Infide l fo e on th e morro w wer e detaile d t o me with a great relis h b y a n infantr y captai n a s w e threade d ou r wa y through th e steep , slippery street s of the ol d town. His recita l wa s interrupte d b y th e discover y tha t mor e troubl e con fronted us . A line o f burnin g village s reddene d th e neighborin g hill s in our rear , announcin g the presenc e o f the inevitabl e flankin g party . I t wa s very sa d and altogether wron g but nothin g was apparently lef t bu t anothe r retreat. About midnigh t a miscellaneou s collectio n o f soldiers , artillery , peasants, live stock an d Red Cros s vehicles rolle d acros s th e plai n behin d Domokos. I t wa s a sullen march. Viewe d fro m th e foo t hill s it suggested a nightmare . Ther e wer e shee p an d goat s drive n b y wear y herders , women and children huddle d o n horse s an d donkeys , wounde d soldier s who swor e o r wept , savag e officer s an d cam p follower s wit h a n ey e t o loot.

( I5 i ) Our departur e fro m Domoko s wa s unceremoniou s an d I foun d tha t my hors e ha d bee n mislaid. I t seeme d a waste o f tim e t o sto p an d loo k for hi m when there wa s such goo d compan y o n th e march . Th e matte r was hardly wort h debating . I fel l int o line, equipped wit h som e expose d photographic films, a large appetite and the desir e t o walk rapidly . I di d wal k rapidly . I passe d regiment s o f infantr y attemptin g t o maintain a semblanc e o f marchin g order—an d lef t the m i n the rear . I came u p wit h som e fragment s o f cavalry an d dodge d aroun d the m an d lef t them i n the rear . I diml y remembe r passin g lon g line s o f roug h two wheeled carts, filled with groaning men , and—leaving them i n the rear— I took shor t cuts through an d around the mo b and crossed th e plain , directl y behind Domoko s wit h winge d feet . Neve r di d ma n walk s o energeticall y or s o tirelessly. I hi t the foothill s joyously an d went u p a steep slope withou t stopping. The wago n road wa s winding and irregular. I too k th e direc t route—a n acute angle d goa t path . Wh y wast e tim e ? I remembe r s o wel l ho w I looked back—fro m th e to p of the hill—an d seein g th e stragglin g colum n in the moonligh t belo w and thinking t o mysel f tha t i t woul d detai n th e advancing Turks fo r at least a few minutes. I coul d d o wonder s i n thos e few minutes. I remembe r passin g tw o re d shirte d Garibaldians—on e o f the m wounded i n the shoulder—lyin g a few feet fro m th e roadway ; The y knew no Englis h an d I n o Italian bu t we agreed withou t difficult y tha t the caus e of the excitemen t wa s " la toork." Wate r I ha d non e an d th e wounde d Garibaldians lay dow n agai n wit h a groan . I passe d int o th e night , outstripping a her d o f goat s an d headin g generall y fo r Lamia, whic h I dimly remembere d t o be a town with restaurant s and beefsteaks an d a wel l of cool water . I passe d a simple peasant la d with his possession s o n a donke y cart . He ha d sol d m e fresh mutto n i n Domokos . H e looke d honest . I gav e him m y overcoa t t o carr y a s fa r a s Lamia . A n overcoa t hamper s a record makin g pedestrian . I was to see him at Lamia , besid e th e wel l i n the publi c squar e an d ther e receiv e m y overcoa t an d th e tw o preciou s

( 15 2 )

rolls o f photographi c films—picture s o f th e battle—-whic h i t contained . Alas ! I struc k the mai n road again an d mad e bette r time . Th e arm y wa s now mile s behind . Ever y tim e I turne d a fres h corner , I receive d a pleasant surprise . No t a Turk wa s to be seen. At sunris e I sat down on a boulder by the roadside . I

wa s not tired,

but I wante d t o giv e th e competin g army a fair chance . Joh n Bas s skid ded b y o n an American bicycle, headin g fo r Watras. He flashed a greetin g an d was gone. H e disturbe d me. I t wa s not right tha t th e En d o f th e World , the Finis h o f Al l Things , shoul d b e participated i n by a ma n on a bicycle . I continue d towards Lamia . I hav e reaso n to believe tha t I wa s the first refugee i n the town, for there wer e stil l beefsteak s an d fres h water . Never hav e I eate n suc h beefsteaks, revil e them thoug h I had , tw o week s before. I sa t unde r a tre e that day and reviewe d the arm y and the goat s as they filtere d throug h th e publi c square . Som e o f th e arm y ha d bee n quarantined a t Furka Pass that morning in a futil e attemp t t o brin g orde r out o f chaos. Bu t man y o f th e soldier s brok e quarantin e an d reache d Lamia. S o di d h e peasants—al l bu t m y simpl e goather d wit h m y rolls of Kodak films and overcoat . By dusk that evenin g I ha d see n .enoug h wounde d me n an d dus t covered straggler s t o populate a city. I bega n t o think seriously of a hote l bed, with sheets and pillows. Bu t abou t nin e o'cloc k wor d came that th e army ha d no t don e retreating. Th e occupant s o f Lamia forthwith joine d the processio n an d w e crosse d anothe r interminabl e plain , steerin g fo r Thermopolyae. Captai n Dorst, the 'American "'military attache , wh o wa s searching fo r the Gree k army , accompanie d me. I continue d throug h th e nigh t .withou t hunge r o r fatigue', walking steadily. A t seve n i n th e mornin g w e reache d Molos , wher e th e village schoolmaste r playe d th e Goo d Samaritan . I slep t fo r a da y

( 15 3 ) and a nigh t i n th e militar y telegrap h offic e an d whe n I wok e u p the wa r was over. I shoul d lik e t o kno w i f thos e film s wer e a success . Th e overcoat, I contribut e cheerfully t o th e reconstructio n of Thessaly,

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(155)

Adrift o n a n Ice-Pack . *' Battle , murder and sudde n deat h " are presumabl y the subject s bes t adapted t o a sketc h o f the typ e demande d b y the editor s o f thi s enlighten ed volume . M y experience o f the firs t lie s in . the future , acros s th e islet studded Korea n Straits ; the secon d I hav e no t ye t committed , thoug h i f the Japanes e Wa r Offic e keep s m e anchored i n Toky o muc h longe r m y hands wil l indubitabl y b e staine d b y Secretaria l gor e ; th e las t i t ha s been m y luc k t o baffl e narrowl y o n one or two occasions . Perhap s th e reader woul d like to hea r abou t on e suc h incident . The experienc e descende d upo n me i n February, 1901 . I wa s on my way to Pekin g t o put an end to th e Boxe r disturbanc e whic h had assume d dimensions sufficien t t o justify th e presenc e o f a perso n o f m y importance . Of course th e Gpl f of Liauton g wa s gripped i n th e ic y finger s o f winter, a shield o f ice fending of f the darin g steame r whic h designe d t o achiev e an y of th e Gul f ports . Ching-wan-ta o was my objectiv e an d a miserabl e .little 80 horse-powe r tan k calle d th e Kwang-chi ha d th e felicit y o f bein g entrusted wit h the tas k o f bearing m e to m y destination . Th e se a wa s a s clear o f ic e as th e writer' s conscienc e o f evi l when w e lef t Chefoo . Bu t when w e got fairl y int o the Gul f w e struc k it . I t wa s delusivel y thi n a t first. Th e steamer' s bow s wen t throug h i t wit h a s muc h eas e a s a knif e throug h cheese , an d th e gratin g scrunch , sc-r-r-r-unch , supplied a pleasin g chang e fro m th e monotonou s splas h o f th e wave s as they erstwhil e brok e agains t th e side s o f ou r vessel . Thi s laste d for abou t a coupl e of hours. The n th e ic e change d fro m th e dow n o n th e peach, s o t o speak , t o th e skin . I t becam e two , three, eve n fou r inche s thick. Th e poo r littl e Kwang*chi ha d evidentl y n o ambitio n t o g o int o business a s a n ice-smasher . Wheneve r a particularl y he^v y patc h wa s struck, sh e shivere d al l over an d stoppe d dead . Th e engine s the n ha d t o

( 15 6 ) be reversed , an d after goin g aster n fo r fifty or sixty yards, the orde r " full steam ahea d " would be given fro m th e bridge , an d sh e woul d courage ously charg e int o th e thic k o f th e pack , generall y wit h th e resul t o f getting forwar d full y fift y yard s befor e sh e was again " hung up/' Thi s hilarious method o f progression continue d until w e wer e abou t 1 5 mile s east o f Ching-wan-tao , when w e go t finall y an d effectivel y blocked . Th e captain, who had been i n a state o f apprehension throughout lest he shoul d buckle hi s bow-plates or d o som e other o f those things whic h migh t wit h more tha n equa l advantag e b e lef t undone , announce d hi s intentio n o f returning t o Chefoo . Lieutenan t Mahon , R.E. , on e o f th e passengers , and I , upo n learning that thi s determination ha d bee n arrive d at , decide d to wal k ashor e acros s th e ice . Maho n ha d com e ou t fro m Indi a in connectio n with the railwa y work which had bee n take n i n hand b y th e China Expeditionar y Forc e (of course the wa r wa s stil l dragging alon g a t that time), and h e was naturally anxious to repor t himsel f at Shan-hai-kuan as Soo n a s possible. Hi s anxiet y to se e the dus t o f Nort h Chin a o n hi s feet wa s only equalle d b y mine . Som e waggis h perso n o n boar d sai d w e were onl y five miles from th e shore , and this recklessl y mendaciou s asser tion wa s supporte d b y other s wh o purporte d t o kno w somethin g about it. Of cours e -we wer e a pai r o f unmitigate d idiots t o attemp t t o walk ashore—but w e ha d scarcel y eithe r o f us attained half-wa y t o th e golde n mean o f life . So , i n a breez y an d cocksur e way , w e tol d th e othe r passengers tha t w e would send out coolies to brin g them an d ou r baggage ashore, nodde d a jaunty farewel l an d se t ou t feelin g a s pleased wit h ourselves a s does a correspondent wh o imagine s he ha s beate n th e censor . Mahon ha d skates ; hadn't. Thi s led to trouble. W e wer e tie d together , following th e advic e o f a Swedis h secon d officer , wh o reckone d h e kne w something about the dar k way s and vai n tricks o f ice. Maho n wen t of f at a te n secon d bat , with the immediat e result that I pitched o n my nose while he whacke d the ic e wit h th e bac k o f hi s hea d a s i f h e mean t it . H e swore at me, bu t whe n I opene d th e floo d gate s o f m y eloquence—a n Australian has little to lear n in this species of linguistic accomplishment—he

(157 )

cordially acknowledge d tha t h e wa s over-matche d an d w e starte d a trifle mor e warily. We wen t on for about thre e hours , occasionally happenin g upo n thi n ice bu t withou t meetin g furthe r trouble . Th e shor e howeve r di d not see m to com e any nearer . I t remaine d a s distan t a s Alexieff' s flee t fro m th e brunt o f battle . The n th e fu n started . W e foun d th e ic e wa s gettin g thinner. Afte r goin g fo r anothe r hou r o r s o we foun d tha t there was a couple o f mile s o f open wate r betwee n u s and the shore . A t thi s stage Mahon also foun d ope n water. H e slippe d through; I t wa s a bit of a job getting him out too. However , it was accomplished. I sough t expectant ly in my pocket fo r a brand y flas k whic h I ha d place d there . I t wa s empty, a smal l hol e a t th e botto m tellin g it s ow n sa d tale . Mahon' s language warmed the whole atmosphere. The n I slippe d through. Maho n yanked m e ou t an d fro m tha t o n w e busie d ourselve s chiefl y i n fallin g through an d hauling each othe r out . I t wa s a monotonou s occupation . We determine d t o g o bac k t o th e Kzvang-chi an d fac e th e fleer s an d sneers o f our fello w passengers . Nigh t ha d falle n the m an d i t was as col d as woman' s charit y fo r woman . Th e steame r w e foun d ha d left . W e spent a cheerfu l nigh t o n the back , a col d wind, blowin g straight fro m th e North Pole , encouraging u s to spraw l about the slipper y ic e a s rapidl y a s circumstances permitted i n a vai n effor t t o kee p ou r bloo d circulating . The nigh t passe d i n som e wa y an d i n th e mornin g w e recommence d falling throug h th e ic e and draggin g eac h othe r ou t again. Really , thi s method o f amusement, through undoubtedl y novel, quickly palled o n one . How were we rescued ? W e rescue d ourselves . Awa y t o th e sout h a promontory (Pei-ta-ho ) jutte d abruptl y and aggresively int o the ice-boun d sea. W e mad e for it. Th e thrillin g adventures w e had o n the wa y wer e of consuming interest—to us — but I wil l not inflic t a recita l of the m upo n the jade d reader . W e arrive d opposit e Pei-ta-ho , miserable , hungry , thirsty, despondent . A channe l of water about 40 yards wide separated u s from a stretch about 10 0 yards broa d o f firm ice on the othe r sid e o f which lay the shore—an d safety . Maho n wanted to swim . In an uninterested , mechanical, listles s kin d o f wa y I explaine d tha t suc h a cours e mean t

( 15 8 )

summary suicide. H e retorte d tha t tha t wa s better tha n dying b y inches . There appeared t o be some horse-sense in that, s o I di d no t continu e th e argument. Piece s o f small ice floated by. Suddenl y a big piec e grounded at our feet, swun g round, jammed against the othe r sid e an d s o mad e a bridge—to life . W e sprinte d across an d (almost a s i n the cas e o f two othe r illustrious persons, Spuriou s Lartius and Herminius, in connectio n with the bridge ove r th e Tiber ) as we reached th e othe r sid e i t floate d off . W e were safe . A Chines e Joss-Pidgi n ma n di d ver y wel l a t Pei-ta-h o an d the. 24th Punjau b Infantr y sen t ou t a medica l detai l t o salvag e u s fro m his well-meant but ill-directe d attentions . W e ha d bee n 2 5 hour s o n th e ice-pack.

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An Adventur e i n Bulgaria . It wa s during the Russo-Turkish War tha t th e littl e incident which I have endeavoured t o illustrate too k place . I ha d followe d fo r som e si x months th e fortune s o f the Turkis h troop s an d ha d bee n presen t a t man y a hard fough t battle. Th e arm y unde r the comman d qf Nedji b Pash a wa s encamped waitin g fo r furthe r Instruction s from Constantinople . Clos e t o the camp was a Bulgaria n village an d my colleagues o f the press , amon g them Coningsby of the " Times," Dre w Gay, o f the " Daily Telegraph, " Huyshe, and man y others ver y soo n cam e to the conclusion that a roo m in a hous e wa s fa r superio r t o a tent , mor e particularl y a s i t was pouring rain mos t of the time . S o al l o f u s proceede d t o th e villag e with : our horses, cart s and baggage an d ver y soo n foun d mos t comfortabl e quarters. The houseowne r with whom I mad e arrangement s wa s a Bulgarian , an d anything bu t prepossessing to look a t Bu t all I care d abou t wa s shelter. The ma n gave m e a stabl e fo r my horse s an d a very larg e roo m for me to work an d sleep in . I se t my camp bed u p in a corner awa y from th e doo r and mad e myself a s comfortabl e a s possible . Coningsb y an d Dre w Ga y were i n a hous e clos e by . Sometime s the y called o n me and sometime s I wen t across t o the m for a chat . Ou r commissaria t wa s no t a t al l bad , as w e could bu y chicken s and gees e for a fe w piastres—one piastre bein g worth abou t tw o penc e halfpenny—an d m y hos t use d to suppl y m e with potatoes, egg s and milk . The latte r he use d to sen d up to my roo m by his daughter, who, by the way, wa s an exceedingl y prett y gir l o f about thirteen. Sh e had bee n in my room o n many occasion s an d I ha d ha d many interestin g conversation s with her throug h th e ai d o f my interpreter. And no w come s th e poin t o f m y story. I ha d been makin g a sketch o f her to introduce int o a drawing I wa s at work on. Sh e wa s leavin g th e room afte r a sitting and I thoughtlessl y chuckle d her under th e chi n an d

( r6o' ) told he r sh e wa s a ver y prett y child . Sh e laughe d an d ra n downstair s and, naturally , tol d he r father . He , apparently , di d no t regar d th e littl e familiarity a s innocently a s I did for he flew into a towerin g rag e and swore he would be revenge d fo r what h e calle d th e insult . Luckil y m y truste d servant hear d the threat s tha t the ma n made and cam e at once an d warne d me. Th e poo r fello w wa s evidentl y seriousl y alarme d : his hai r almos t stood o n end and hi s eyes bulge d i n hi s hea d a s h e entere d my room . With intens e earnestnes s and excitemen t h e whispere d t o m e wha t th e wrathful fathe r ha d said , ho w h e ha d declare d tha t I ha d insulte d hi s daughter an d trie d t o lur e he r awa y fro m hi m an d tha t h e woul d hav e my lif e fo r it. I shoul d explai n tha t a t that tim e th e Bulgarian s hate d th e English, who were then very friendly toward s the Turks. I laughe d at the whole stor y but this onl y mad e m y servan t th e mor e anxious , an d h e begged m e t o leav e th e hous e an d g o bac k t o camp . I pooh-poohe d that as ridiculous; but as m y ma n wa s evidently filled wit h genuine anxiet y for m y safet y I tol d hi m tha t I woul d b e ver y carefu l an d that as an additional precautio n h e wa s t o slee p i n m y roo m whil e on e o f m y Circassians woul d slee p jus t outsid e th e door , whil e another woul d slee p in the stabl e les t my murderou s host shoul d tak e i t into his head t o injur e my horse s or let them loose . I shoul d explai n tha t al l the door s ,an d window s o f th e hous e an d all th e woo d tha t coul d b e easil y remove d ha d bee n carrie d away b y th e troops fo r firewoo d s o tha t I wa s therefor e unabl e t o mak e m y roo m secure i n an y way . A s nigh t cam e o n I confes s tha t m y servant's fear s communicated themselve s t o me i n som e measur e an d I fel t jus t a littl e nervous a s t o wha t migh t happe n i f what m y ma n ha d tol d m e was true. So I too k th e precaution, when goin g t o bed, of placing my revolver unde r my pillow. Ther e i s n o doubt-bu t tha t I ow e m y lif e t o thi s fact Previous t o retirin g I visite d th e stable s an d foun d m y horse s al l right with m y faithfu l Circassian , Isack , o n guard , hi s Wincheste r repeatin g rifle b y hi s side. M y other Circassia n wa s lying o n the floo r outsid e m y door and my brave servant, Yanco , wa s asleep just inside the doorway. I got into be d wit H a vague feelin g o f danger. I soo n foun d tha t it was one

( i6 i ) thing t o g o t o be d bu t tha t i t wa s another t o fal l asleep . I trie d no t t o think about the affa i an d rolle d fro m sid e t o side determined that I shoul d go t o sleep . Bu t i t wa s n o use ; on e ey e woul d clos e bu t th e othe r would b e wid e awake . Th e ligh t fro m a ful l moo n wa s streamin g in throug h m y ope n windo w an d I ha d jus t turne d m y fac e t o th e room whe n a strang e soun d struc k upo n m y ear . To m y horro r I saw the figure of a ma n moving slowly toward s m y bed. H e ha d evidentl y stepped acros s th e sleepin g form s o f my me n an d to avoi d wakin g the m wa s stealthil y creepin g along th e floor . I could see th e moonligh t shinin g o n th e col d stee l o f th e yatagha n h e clutched i n hi s hand . I coul d se e a s plainl y a s i n th e dayligh t th e absolutely fiendis h expressio n o f the man' s fac e an d I realise d tha t i t was a due l t o th e death betwee n hi m and me. M y nerves wer e at thei r utmos t tension bu t I waite d unti l h e wa s only a fe w feet awa y fro m m y bed , then suddenly drawin g m y revolver , which I ha d read y i n m y hand , I fired. The man started but I coul d see tha t I had misse d him . He turne d on the instan t an d mad e a das h toward s th e window . A s h e turned I fired again bu t m y hast e an d excitemen t wer e to o muc h an d I misse d hi m again, th e bulle t going ver y wid e of its mark . M y enem y i n hi s surprise and hi s haste t o ge t ou t o f the roo m droppe d hi s yatagha n an d I hav e i t at hom e no w among m y curios . By this tim e m y servant and Circassia n ha d joined i n the excitemen t and we three wer e firing at th e Bulgaria n as h e jumpe d ou t o f the window on t o a verandah , the n racin g dow n som e step s int o the courtyar d lore down th e street . Ho w i t happene d I d o no t know bu t ther e i s one thin g certain, my two Circassian s an d m y servan t wit h Wincheste r repeatin g rifles and I wit h a servic e revolve r fired som e 1 5 shots , and we al l failed i n bringing down the man . It no w occurre d t o m e tha t thi s inciden t ha d assume d a seriou s aspect. Wha t wa s I t o d o ? T o remai n ther e wa s impossible , fo r h e rn'ght retur n a t any momen t reinforced wit h his friend s an d giv e m e a ba d time, I therefor e sen t on e of my Circassian s wit h a hastil y writte n not e t o

( 16 2 )

my General , Nedj i Pasha , informin g hi m o f what ha d take n plac e an d asking wha t I shoul d do i n the matter . While waitin g fo r th e repl y m y servan t rushe d int o th e hous e a s I kep t guard , an d packing m y baggage as quickly as possible brough t i t outside. H e ha d just finished when my messenger arrive d wit h the informa tion tha t th e Genera l wa s sendin g m e twenty-fiv e soldiers fo r protectio n and tha t I wa s to bur n the hous e an d retur n to camp . I ofte n hav e owne d t o myself ' whe n thinkin g ove r m y action tha t perhaps I wa s a little hasty; bu t i n thos e day s i t seeme d different , fo r I simply ha d m y goods place d i n a cart , m y horse s brough t ou t fro m th e stables and then callin g out the wif e an d children I set fire to the house wit h rny ow n hands, an d by the time my Turkish guar d arrive d o n the scene , th e house wa s a roarin g mass o f flame. Ther e wa s one thing I ha d overlook ed i n m y ferociou s reveng e an d tha t wa s I ver y nearl y include d rny tw o campaigning friend s an d thei r good s i n the bonfire , for I had not calculate d how clos e thei r hous e wa s to mine . I t escaped , however, and s o di d m y would b e assassin, fo r o n m y retur n to cam p 1 learned w e were t o marc h the next day .

( 16 3 )

Taking I t Lyin g Down . Under ordinary circumstances, when a man calls you a lia r there i s onl y one thing to be done. H e may say you prevaricate , o r tha t h e doe s no t believe you ; all the sam e h e ha s called you a liar , an d a certai n serie s of results usuall y follow . No w th e offens e o f tellin g anothe r ma n i n al l seriousness that he lies is a grea t on e ; in fact, it is charging him with breaking one of the te n commandment s (which is a very ba d thing to do ) an d should be resented. Howeve r that ma y be, the genera l la w tha t circum stances alte r cases i $ well known i n this present age , an d i n that particula r part o f thi s ag e whe n Genera l Bulle r wa s campaignin g in Natal enoug h circumstances arose to alter a great many , cases. Oathe second day o f the battl e o f Vaal Krant z two o f u s rode ou t t o the advanc e post o f the Britis h position . Th e othe r ma n wa s Knox , o f Renter's agency. Thi s advanc e position was being hel d b y on e brigade o f infantry, th e battl e a t that perio d consisting chiefl y o f a n artiller y due l o n the righ t flank - Everythin g seeme d to be fairly quie t a s w e approached , and no t onc e were we halted o n the suspicio n o f bein g Boe r spies . Th e blue coa t I wor e generall y brough t about such an arrest o n almost ever y excursion we undertook, but we had grown accustomed to that by thi s time, nor di d we pay any particular attention t o th e omissio n o n thi s occasio n ; and yet tha t blu e coat in the en d proved to be at the bottom o f the trouble , and it was a very goo d coat , too, by the way . We ha d onl y jus t begu n t o intervie w on e o f th e colonel s o f th e reserve force s whe n suddenl y a heav y fusilad e brok e ou t somewher e near, an d a whirrin g sounde d in the ai r like the blas t of a strange kind of wind. The n a big tin biscuit can got u p by itself and went clattering down the hillsid e ove r the stones . A voic e fro m th e cres t abov e u s shouted : "Stand, boys, stand ! "in a curiously insistent monotone .

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The hillsid e leapt int o life. Th e Colone l bellowed orders ; the reserv e troops lifte d u p from th e groun d like the startle d gas p o f a ma n surprised , and bending low to the rock s went hurrying in disorder toward the crest . It happene d to be Knox's tur n t o hol d th e horses . I n th e shelte r behind th e kraa l a n unarme d orderl y als o gave hi s horses t o Knox , and taking the rifl e an d cartridg e belt fro m a soldier previousl y wounded , wh o was lying there, .he ran around the kraal in th e directio n o f the firing ; and in the nature of things I followe d th e orderly . B y taking a circuitous route we kept below the rang e o f fire for the first half of the distance . The n w e began th e ascent , th e orderl y som e fiftee n yard s ahead, leapin g from on e sun-bleached roc k to another , an d wavin g hi s rifl e wildl y a s hi s balance swayed fro m sid e to side . When w e reached th e lef t win g o f the firin g lin e hel d b y a Scotc h regiment, the fight was cracking fiercel y al l alon g th e rock y crest . Th e attack o f th e Boer s ha d bee n brough t t o a standstil l not mor e than 40$ yards away , an d i t seemed at that tim e to b e a question o f ni p and tuck if they woul d be able to com e on again o r not . Th e Britis h wer e firin g a t random fro m behin d whateve r cove r ther e wa s a t hand . Her e a roc k sheltered thre e o f them, there tw o more lay protected. Th e lin e zigzagged back an d forth becaus e at this en d no regular trench ha d bee n constructed * Some o f them wer e shootin g over their comrades' heads. Amon g the me n there wer e shouts and curses and deep-drawn groans , an d th e silenc e of a number o f dead already . My rock—w e had come to look upo n them as though w e owned them, like dwellings, and I had picked out the finest one in the near neighborhood —my rock , then, was situated abou t 2 0 yards fro m a dea d whit e stum p of a tree, the onl y one o n th e hill . Besid e thi s stum p a soldie r knel t o n one knee . As i n all times o f excitement suc h a s thi s wa s th e attentio n i s apt t o become fastene d upon a certain part o f the whole, so in this case my interest in the battl e became centere d i n watching thi s man . I coul d se e hi s fac e plainly. I t wa s a strange fac e ; a fac e tha t coul d be turned from a demon' s to a clown's by a smile. Fo r a whil e h e stare d intentl y straigh t ahea d

( i6 $ ) Then he slowl y lifte d hi s rifl e withou t shiftin g hi s gaze , a s thoug h instea d of laying hi s eye to the sight s he wa s raisin g th e sight s t o hi s eye . H e fired, and th e unhol y savage joy whic h oversprea d th e countenanc e of that clown fac e wa s wonderful . I ha d grown s o absorbed i n watching this performanc e tha t I ha d pai d no heed t o th e extr a amount of shouting around me, but afte r the clow n had go t hi s ma n " I became aware o f considerabl e commotio n i n our par t of the line . A t thi s tim e the attac k o f the enem y was redoubled , a s thoug h if

the Boer s wer e makin g a last determine d effor t t o carr y th e crest . Abov e the increasin g crash o f the battl e I coul d not distinguis h what wa s said , bu t there wa s something out o f the wa y for a certainty. Then a youn g Scotc h soldier , hi s blu e eyes brigh t wit h th e ligh t of battle, hi s tunic torn across th e chest , an d hi s rifl e firml y grippe d i n on e hand, came runnin g toward me by sections , dartin g fro m shelte r t o shelter . Finally h e reache d th e las t stage o f his journey and throwing himsel f dow n at ful l lengt h beside me , he glare d a t m e fiercely . Ther e wa s barely roo m for bot h o f us lyin g flat . " Wha air ye ? " he asked i n an angry tone . My tellin g hi m I ha d n o intentio n of sitting u p fro m th e shelte r jus t then i n order t o sho w hi m my paper s seeme d t o strik e hi m as reasonable . " Wha air ye ? " he repeated, somewha t mollified . u A war correspondent." " Laddie, A dinn a believe ye," h e said solemnly . And ther e i t was. I n plai n English, a t leas t plai n enough , and i n all seriousness to be sure , he ha d calle d m e a lia r t o m y face. Bu t this wa s one o f those case s altere d b y circumstances ;

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Without Orders. I fanc y thi s volum e , will teem wit h Sout h Africa n experiences , bu t what ca n one write otherwise,, when one's mos t adventurou s incident s al l occurred there , wit h the ster n reminde r eve r before hi m that i t must be his most thrilling adventure. I forget the date , bu t it doe s not matter. I t wa s just afte r the , siege of Wepener, in April, 1900. A t that time I was in charge o f a troop of irregular mounted infantry . M y column marched due north from Wepene r to Thaba 'nchu and from ther e du e eas t eight miles, and when a halt was called abou t ten miles wes t o f Ladybrand , things happened . A s Genera l Campbell' s column wa s operating o n our extreme righ t we consequentl y thought tha t when we got so near Ladybrand his brigade had occupied the town. O n this, assumption I acted. A s presiden t of ou r mess, an d a s on e o f th e man y liking a dro p of the " cratur," it occurred to me that my column must ge t a loo k i n as regards th e suppl y of the cheer y article,, not wishin g t o leav e it all to ou r successors . Accordingl y I sen t tw o me n wit h duly certifie d passes t o buy , beg o r steal stuffing fo r saddle s (sic) ; i n reality , t o bu y a s much o f the necessitie s of life as were left i n the town. Th e resul t threatened to be disastrous, as futur e event s wil l show. Th e tw o men— I shoul d mention tha t the y wer e American s of the cowbo y breed , whom I ha d re cruited fro m mul e ship s at Eas t London—starte d about half an hour afte r " outspanning." O n leavin g th e cam p myself abou t hal f a n hou r before " skimmel," riding, dreamily tripping, forgetful o f all surroundings , forget ful eve n of my men ahead an d o f the countr y swarmin g wit h the enemy , lights loome d to righ t an d lef t o f me, and I >va s pulled up sharpl y wit h th e deadly " Wij loop da?" The n I realised the town was reached. Instantl y Boers, fully armed , sprahg out of nothingness around me ! Wha t was to be done ? I was for scooting, but probably i f I di d so I would be shot. Ha d

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I bette r not try a btuff ? I was very uBdacided, but the thought of the two men who m I had ordere d i n front stayed me. Seein g an hotel befor e m e on which floated the Vierkleur I rode quietly up to it, instantly dismounted , and called a nigger in a lordly manner to hold my horse. I demanded a bottle of champagne an d a n exchang e o f flags . Althoug h quakin g in my shoes , the chang e wa s effected i n twenty minutes . Ho w gla d I wa s onc e mor e to .find mysel f beneath a bit of the pld bunting. I entered the bar and foun d my two troopers ver y drunk , but nevertheless , a s I afterwards discovered , very, sensible . Undoubtedl y I ow e to them m y fortunat e escap e fro m a very awkward quandary. O n entering I accosted the m a s follow s : "Well, what's to be done.? We'r e in a hole." " See here, Lieutenant, " on e replied , " I guess you' d bette r leav e tha t to us. " I wen t o n drinking, wha t was , my firs t indulgenc e for man y moons , quietly awaiting developments. Th e trooper^ went put, an d evidentl y ha d spun: a re d hot yarn , fo r when they condescende d t o cal l me , they wer e sitting.at the Mayor' s desk i n the Town Hall, issuin g instructions to all and sundry, that o n surrendering the y mus t confine themselve s to thei r house s indefinitely, unde r penalt y o f bein g shot . Th e passe s wer e signe d b y a saddler, Sergt.-Major ! Heaven know s wha t the y though t you r humbl e servan t mus t hav e been. However , all's well that end s well, and when all were safely housed, and whe n we ha d take n 32 0 surrenders, and 19 0 rifles , o f which about .one hundred wer e Martinis , which we promptly destroyed, an d abou t sevent y Mausers, whic h w e too k int o camp , w e lef t tow n somewha t hurriedly . We arrive d i n camp about an hour before reveille . Strang e t o relate , th e column di d not pursue it s cours e int o Ladybran d nex t day , bu t trekke d back to Thaba 'nchu. However , the reasons were afterwards explained, and were that th e general staff had the intention of driving the Boer s wandering in th e distric t int o th e town , an d o f afterward s surroundin g it. I ma y fpention tha t th e nex t appearanc e o f Britis h troop s i n Ladybran d wa s when Col . Pilcher darte d i n with a^hundred menjm d seize d the Mayor , o n which occasio n he met with stern resistance and, J JDelieve, with considerable

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loss. I n afte r days , a t th e tim e o f Prinsloo' s surrender , man y o f m y " prisoners " were captured, and I conversed with several o f them, but they never forgav e me , and to the m I am , and fea r alway s wil l be , a veritabl e 41 verdomde rootnek. "

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( I7 i )

A Messag e fro m Andree . Victoria, B . C., is a journalistic outpost an d I hav e ha d man y interest ing experience s there . On e wee k — it wa s durin g tha t rus h t o th e Klondike's goldfield s — was Ful l o f experiences . Th e comin g o f Mr . Tilton, mate o f the whale r Belvedere , wh o ha d walke d across Alask a fro m Point Barro w an d take n passag e sout h fro m Valde s o n th e littl e stea m schooner Albion , starte d th e week' s excitement . H e brough t new s of how five whaling steamers had been crushe d in the ic e of the Arctic , and of how the whale r Narwhal had been burned at se a and he r me n rescue d fro m icefloes i n th e norther n ocean . I caugh t hi m b y charterin g a small tu g an d takin g he r ou t t o li e i n th e steamer' s track . I t was about nightfal l whe n I sighted the Albion, and , with much signalling , managed t o ge t th e vessel' s maste r t o sto p he r lon g enoug h t o allo w me t o hea r a tal e o f shipwreck and disaster , which , whe n telegraphe d t o the severa l newspaper s whos e corresponden t I was , mad e som e fron t pages look beautifu l fro m a^correspondent' s point o f view. Bu t i t i s not o f this tha t I woul d tell, no r o f that horror o f th e Dye a trai l when the sno w and ic e slid dow n the Chilkoo t Pas s tw o day s late r an d blotte d ou t th e lives o f over oi> e hundred and fifty men who had gone north to see k wealth , though I ha d n o smal l amoun t o f trouble, an d incidenta l experiences , i n getting thi s new s t o th e neares t wire , th e Victori a wire s bein g a t th e time ou t o f repair because of a gale . This i s t o tel l o f anothe r inciden t o f tha t week , o f a messag e from Andre e — whom yo u ma y hav e forgotten , fo r fame' s laurel s of t fade quickl y fro m th e brow . A s yo u ma y remember , Her r Andre e was a n intrepi d aeronaut , who , i n commo n wit h tw o othe r brav e Swedish ballobnists , se t ou t fro m Swede n no t man y years ag o i n th e balloon Eagl e t o seek th e Nort h Pole , and , lik e others , th e tri o lost thei r

( 17 2 )

lives i n the attempt . N o one has learned their fate . Fo r myself , I believ e that the Eagl e fel l i n the barre n lands north o f Fort Churchil l on Hudson' s Bay and Her r Andre e an d those wit h him were killed by th e Esquimaux . There i s no positive proof of this; nothing mot e than stories that have com e from tim e to tim e fro m th e native s o f that vicinity stating tha t thre e me n came fro m th e ai r i n a thin g tha t looke d lik e a grea t "omiak, " o r eanoe, an d th e native s cam e fro m thei r igloo s an d kille d the m wit h bows and arrows . Yet,, al l thi s dot s no t concer n m y experience . I t starte d with " a telegram whic h I receive d on e wintry mornin g as I sa t at m y desk i n the office o f the Victori a Colonist. Thi s messag e wa s fro m on e Rosenburg , a iur-buyer, wh o ha d com e fro m Dawso n Cit y o n th e steame r Centennial . It wa s dated fro m Nanaimo , wher e the steame r ha d stoppe d t o coal , and read : "Meet Centennial . Du e daylight . Jac k Carr , mail carrier a board, ha s message lette r foun d Andre e pigeon. " I rea d thi s messag e wit h increasin g excitement , fo r i t tol d o f a "story"' i n whic h the world woul d be interested. I t was the " story " o f the year . A s 1 jammed the telegram in my pocket I began t o think o f plan after pla n for landing this new s all by myself . I f I coul d ge t a '" beat" o n this i t would be a bi g thing . Bu t how? :—that was th e questio n „ Although I did not know the fac t at that time, a rival correspondent had a similar telegram.in hi s pocket, and he wa s thinking , as I did , o f ho w h e could kee p th e stor y "exclusive." I n this effor t h e ha d chartered the tu g Mystery an d gon e of f int o th e storm y night , sea-sic k bu t happ y i n th e belief that h e wa s alon e with th e stor y o f the yeaf . A s fo r me, I rouse d agents an d tugboat captain s fro m thei r beds , spendin g th e greate r par t of a wild night in going i n a ca b from hous e t o house fo r this purpos e ; bu t I Coul d ge t rio tug. Al l I coul d get wa s the knowledg e tha t m y rival had gone—which wa s not pleasant knowledge. There wa s nothing for me to d o but to ' wait. I wen t t o th e steamer' s wharf, an d sa t on , th e piles * ther e i n the . rain and wind , 'waiting, an d shivering a s I waited , fo r th $ arrival o f the steamer . I n th e meantime ,

( 17 3 )

messengers brough t to m e answers to telegrams tha t I ha d sent . On e was from M r Martin . H e wa s news editor o f th e Ne w York Herald, an d h e instructed m e as follows : " If Andree lette r genuin e try bu y exclusively . Offer u p to tw o thousan d dollars, but b e sur e genuine. " The n cam e an other. I t wa s from Mr. Johnson, o f the Sa n Francisc o Call^ wh o said. "Will pa y u p t o thre e thousan d fo r Andre e lette r i f Car r vouche s verification. Insis t this. W e don' t wan t buy gol d brick. " And s o said others . No t i n those words , but ii| words that mean t th e same thing . The y all wante d th e new s an d were willin g to pa y fo r it, i f Carr woul d vouc h fo r it; an d wit h m y pocke t fille d wit h flims y I wa s waiting for Mr. Carr . I t wa s nearly dayligh t whe n th e Centennia l came t o the dock * M y rival's tug was steaming almost alongside, and I noticed tha t one of her boat s was smashed, while two of the Centennial' s port boats were also stove in , I afterward learne d that m y rival's tug had bumped against the steamer i n the night , and, after muc h swearing on the par t o f Capt. Thomp son of the steamer , he had given his cheque in payment fo r the damag e done. How impatientl y I waite d fo r that steame r t o mak e fas t he r lines , an d how disguste d I wa s when 1 saw othe r correspondent s emerg e fro m thei r shelters an d prepare to clamber ove r th e rai l with me . I ca n remembe r the whol e thin g ver y plainly . W e clambere d ove r th e rai l despite th e protests o f the cre w ari d th e swearin g o f the captain , and w e invade d th e cabin i n which the mai l carrier was closeted wit h Mr . Gibbons , m y rival. The mai l carrie r sat o n a trunk. Hi s fee t wer e encased i n the furline d "mukluks" o f the northlan d and his mackinaw coat wa s thrown ope n carelessly, exposin g a frayed re d jersey . H e wa s a typical mai l earne r o f the Klondike distric t o f that day. But , as I remembe r well , I didn' t pa y muc h attention to his garb , fo r I was worryin g more abou t my rival , and it was at hi m that I looked th e most . I t di d no t tak e long , though , t o se e by his manner tha t he ha d not been successful , an d I began m y work , a s did the other s who came wit h me. Yes, th e mai l carrie r said , h e ha d a lette r fro m Andree , bu t h e considered i t wa s worth a few hundred dollar s t o him . Th e paper s woul d be gla d tq. have it , he thought .

( 174 ) 1 offere d Tii. m fiv e hundre d dollar s fo r it, an d h e looke d a t me , as though h e woul d have like d t o hav e bargaine d wit h me , bu t m y riva l offered si x hundred , and on e o f th e othe r fellows— I thin k i t was Georg e Denny, no w war corresponden t for the Associated Press—-mad e a bid. A s I though t I ha d a goo d margi n to bid on I offered a thousand dollars . M y rival ha d seemingl y as much money to offe r a s I had, though, for he at onc e offered tw o thousand , an d th e other s disgustedl y droppe d ou t o f th e bidding. Th e mor e we bid and bargained, the mor e serious became th e mail carrier. H e scratche d hi s head an d wrinkled his brow, seemingly thinking deeply, 'and , afte r som e minute s o f silence , h e sai d : " If you fellows'l l wait, I'l l talk to m y friend abou t this thing . He' s go t a hal f interest." An d we waited. Hour after hou r we waited, and then I bethough t m e of a scheme. M y friend, Mr . W. A . Ward , wa s the consu l of th e Scandinavia n government . Why couldn' t he insis t on th e mai l carrie r giving u p the letter ? I t wa s worth trying , I thought, s o I telephoned t o Mr . Ward and he came quickl y in a cab . Bu t his intervie w wit h the mail , carrier was ineffective . I t ha d only th e effec t o f makin g th e ma n wh o walke d acros s severa l thousan d miles o f ice ver y angry . "I suppos e yo u guys thin k you'll wor k m e tha t way, d o you ?" h e said, afte r th e consu l went , and m y rival immediately disavowe d an y con nection wit h th e effort s o f the consul . I t was my doing, he said,—an d th e mail carrier scowle d at me . Hour afte r hou r went. I t wa s no w noo n and I ha d no t eate n sinc e my dinner the previous evening ; but, hungry though I was, I was as keen as evdr to ge t tha t messag e fro m th e dea d Andree . S o I waite d whil e th e rrtail carrie r held intervie w after intervie w with his friend . In the meantime , a boy had brought me an answer to a message I had sent t o th e effec t tha t Car r was holding ou t fo r more tha n wa s offered , an d the repl y I receive d rea d : " Offer hi m to five thousand, but secure writte n guarantee genuin e fro m him. " With thi s despatc h i n m y iiand, I wen t agai n t o wher e th e tw o sa t dicsussing the matter. " Mr Carr," I said , " I'll give yo u five thousand for

( 17 5 ) that letter i f yo u com e to a lawyer's offic e wit h me an d write a statement that the thin g is genuine." " Do I hav e to go to the lawyer' s offic e ?" he replied. " You do," sai d I. "Well," h e returned , wit h a smile , "I gues s the deal' s off . I ain't goin g t o ru n chance s o f th e pe n ove r thi s thing , fo r I gues s a paper that' d offe r fiv e thou ' woul d put a fello w ove r the roa d fo r fooling 'em. Thi s letter' s a thing m e and Bil l here fixe d u p a t Dawson . W e got a n ol d Stran d magazin e an d sa w som e picture s o f letter s foun d o n pigeons whic h returne d t o Sweden . Bill , h e think s th e paper s woul d pay bi g fo r a letter fro m Andree , so w e made one. Bu t we'v e go t col d feet now , and th e deal' s off/ ' This i s why th e worl d wa s never startle d wit h the new s that a letter from Andre e ha d bee n foun d i n the wild s o f Alaska, and th e wil d tribes of Siberia ma y stil l seek fo r tiding s o f th e los t explorers , a s th e Cza r com manded i n the sign s which he scattere d ove r the norther n wastes.

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( 17 7 )

The Canadian s a t Paardeberg . It wa s the nigh t befor e th e final decisive attack upo n th e large r o f the Boer General , Cronje , whic h resulte d i n th e surrende r o f th e ma n i n whom, o n th e Wester n frontier , th e enem y place d mos t reliance , togethe r with som e fou r thousan d of his followers . It wa s the ev e o f the anniversar y of the Britis h defeat at Majub a Hil l eighteen year s before . Tha t disasterou s event , unavenged - as i t was , ha d instilled deepl y int o th e mind s o f th e Dutc h al l ove r Sout h Afric a a contempt fo r the militar y prowess o f Great Britain . I t wa s Majub a whic h practically ende d th e Fris t Boe r Wa r wit h the advantag e t o jthe Dutc h : i t was Paardeberg , wit h the captur e o f Cronje 's army , whic h brok e th e bac k of resistanc e agains t th e Britis h advanc e upo n Pretoria , i n th e Secon d Boer War . Belmont, Graspan , and Modde r Rive r ha d bee n a t bes t dearly-bough t victories, i n whic h th e reckles s braver y o f th e Britis h soldie r an d hi s company officer s wa s mor e tha n counterbalanced , i n th e min d o f th e enemy, b y wha t wa s regarde d a s lac k o f skil l i n tactics . Magersfontenin , Colense,' an d Stormber g cam e i n quic k succession , wit h staggerin g significance t o th e whol e Britis h Empir e ; while Boer hop e an d confidenc e rose t o a dangerou s height . Th e on e tin y ra y o f sunshine, whic h sho t feebly throug h th e blac k sk y o f disaste r tha t prevaile d durin g al l thos e weary weeks , wa s th e defea t o f th e Sunnysid e rebels , b y Canadia n and Australian troops , o n th e extrem e lef t flan k o f Genera l Lord . Metheun' s position o n the Modde r River . Weeks passed , an d th e worl d waite d fo r the nex t strok e t o cas t th e balance ! Meantim e Britis h troops poure d i n thousand s int o Cap e Town , as evidenc e o f th e anxiet y whic h th e chapte r o f disasters ha d aroused .

( 17 8 )

Then cam e th e wonderfu l mobilizatio n o f th e arm y o n th e Wester n frontier, unde r Field Marsha l Lor d Roberts , th e quic k marc h fro m Enslin , the rendezvou s a t Ramda m Farm , followe d closel y b y th e captur e o f Jacobsdal wit h th e enemy' s hospitals , an d Kli p Drif t wit h thei r com missiariat: th e splende d das h o f th e cavalry , unde r Genera l Si r Joh n French, fo r Kimberley, an d it s relief; an d th e doublin g bac k o f th e sam e weary soldier s t o th e Modde r River , t o head of f the desperat e attemp t o f the Boe r General , Cronje, t o mak e goo d escap e fro m th e no w untenabl e position i n the Magersfontei n kopjes . Cornered, wit h Britis h cavalr y spannin g th e rive r ahead , an d fou r divisions o f infantr y slowl y bu t surel y encirclin g him , Cronj e an d hi s sturdy burgher s wer e not yet captured . Wit h consumat e skill , usin g to the ful l th e marvellou s advantages whic h the countr y afforded fo r a stron g defensive position , the Boe r leade r establishe d his laager a t a poin t wher e a shar p elbo w in the rive r gave hi m the protectio n o f hig h bank s o n thre e sides, with a level glaci s sloping u p fro m th e trenches , o n th e fourth , fo r a distanc e o f a mile or more . A plentifu l fring e o r tree s alon g th e rive r bank afforde d a partia l scree n fo r th e Boe r wagons , whic h were parke d within a narro w oblon g unde r cove r o f tree s an d scrub . I t wa s shortl y after daybrea k o n Sunda y morning , the eighteent h o f February , when th e British infantry , b y a series of forced marche s closed i n around th e enemy' s position. Fo r over a mile along th e river , either wa y from th e laager , th e Boers occupie d the bank s and numerous deep sluit s o r donga s extendin g at righ t angles fro m them , i n many instanc e fo r a quarte r o f a mil e an d even more . Al l da y Sunda y th e Britis h infantr y an d artiller y endeavore d to dislodg e th e enem y fro m th e rive r bank s an d dongas , an d forc e the m back withi n th e confine s o f thei r laager . Jus t a s the da y wa s closing, a general charg e wa s ordered, an d th e cordo n o f troop s abou t th e laage r made a desperate attemp t t o clos e i n upon the enemy , wit h the resul t tha t something over a thousan d officer s an d me n o n the Britis h sid e bit th e dust, kille d o r wounded. Thoug h effectuall y cornered , th e Boer s demons trated that the y coul d stil l bite wit h effect , an d n o furthe r attempt s wer e made t o forc e th e issu e by infantr y advance s ove r ope n ground , Instead ,

( 17 9 )

the artiller y fire of the entir e force wa s concentrated upo n th e laager , an d under cove r o f that fire, for more tha n a wee k th e nineteent h brigad e o f the nint h divisio n of infantry, commande d b y Brigadie r Genera l Smith Dorrien, assiste d b y a detachment of the Roya l Engineers , slowl y sappe d up th e rive r bank towards the Boe r laager . Monday evening , th e twent y sixt h o f February , th e Canadian s occupied th e forwar d trenche s i n front o f th e enemy' s position . W e ha d known all afternoon tha t som e desperat e gam e wa s on , bu t thos e wh o knew would no t tell what i t was . A shar p musketr y fire was kep t u p a t intervals durin g th e afternoo n fro m th e enemy' s trenches , whic h were a bare thre e hundre d yard s t o ou r front . A shor t distanc e to ou r rear th e Shropshire regimen t occupie d th e secon d lin e o f trenches , whil e th e Gordon Highlander s manne d another trench, extendin g fro m tha t occupied by th e Shropshire s i n the for m o f an obtus e angle , includin g toward s th e front trenc h at it s extremity fro m th e rive r bank. Th e furthe r ban k o f the river, flanking the trenc h in front , wa s occupied b y a singl e compan y o f the Canadia n regiment. finally, jus t befor e dark , th e order s came . Th e pla n had evidentl y been carefull y conceived , fo r ever y compan y office r receive d hi s instruc tions i n writing . A t a given hour , betwee n midnigh t and tw o o'cloc k i n the morning , the entir e regimen t wa s to advance from the forward trenche s under cove r o f th e darkness . Th e fron t ran k wa s t o carr y entrenchin g tools, wit h their rifle s slung , and to advanc e keeping touc h a t arms length ; the secon d ran k arme d wit h rifle s only , was to follo w i n the sam e manner , with an interval often paces . Absolut e silenc e was to b e maintained , an d at th e first discharge fro m th e enemy' s lines , both rank s wer e t o fal l fla t upon thei r face s withou t returnin g fire . Th e Gordo n Highlander s i n th e flank trenches o n one side , and th e compan y o f Canadians across th e rive r on the othe r flank, were to answer the Boe r fire, and thus cove r th e silen t advance. Th e Shropshir e regiment , occupying th e rea r trenches , wer e t o act i n support. A detachmen t o f the Roya l Engineer s wa s t o advanc e a t the sam e tim e unde r cove r of the hig h rive r bank .

( iS o ) The objec t of th e movemen t wa s t o di g a trenc h upo n a slightl y elevated ridg e o f ground no t mor e tha n eight y o r on e hundre d yards fro m the oute r entrenchment s o f the enemy . Succes s mean t tha t wit h the dawn the troop s occupyin g th e ne w trenc h woul d be able b y thei r fire to mak e the oute r lin e of the Boe r cove r untenable , and w e kne w tha t thei r whol e system o f undergroun d defenc e wa s connecte d b y " T" trenches . Bu t the chance s o f success—-well, it was a desperat e busines s at best ! As th e nigh t gre w apace , and^it s ink y darknes s mad e eve n th e face s of clos e neighbor s nothin g mor e tha n a di m silhouette , ther e wa s a significant silenc e all along th e lin e ; broken onl y by a n occasiona l musket shot fro m othe r part s o f th e field . Ther e wa s n o interchang e o f complimentary remarks , suc h a s ar e usua l amon g soldier s eve n i n th e mos t dangerous firing line. I t wa s obvious that ever y ma n had nerve d himsel f and wa s silently awaitin g the signal . N o on e wh o ha s no t waite d similaril y for a n orde r whic h involved—perhap s deat h an d disaster ; perhap s a dearly-bought victory—ca n understan d th e agonizin g tortur e o f thos e weary hours . The wor d cam e a t last , an d silentl y the regimen t crawle d from cover . Slowly th e first, and then th e secon d line , disappeare d int o the darknes s i n front. Faintl y th e soun d of marching came back, bu t i t was impossibl e to see anything. Suddenly , ou t t o th e left , cam e th e shar p crac k o f a singl e Mauser, followe d i n an instan t by a rattlin g fir e al l alon g th e Boe r lines . Then came volley, after volley , a perfect hel l of fire, which wa s answere d b y the Gordon s and the compan y of Canadians on the opposit e bank o f the river . It seeme d impossibl e tha t me n coul d liv e ou t there, an d yet ther e were eigh t hundre d i n front . Awa y a t th e farthes t extremit y o f th e advance, i n th e interval s betwee n th e deadl y volleys , ou r ma n began t o retire, an d tumbled into the trenche s i n tens an d twenties. Ha d th e whol e affair the n bee n a failure , an d wer e thes e fe w straggler s al l wh o wer e lef t to tel l the tal e ? N o on e seemed t o know , eve n those wh o returne d coul d only sa y tha t the y ha d don e s o unde r orders . Whe n th e enemy' s fire slackened a little, it was found tha t the genera l advance and the partial gradual retirement wa s part o f the plan , two companie s only remainin g t o exceava t

( is r ) the trench , lying flat, and throwing the eart h u p i n fron t o f them . The y were assiste d b y the engineer s workin g fro m th e rive r bank . Th e Boer s were evidentl y deceived , fo r the workin g part y managed, first, to thro w u p protecting cover , an d finally to complet e th e require d trench , whic h the y occupied fo r the res t o f the night . Th e movemen t ha d bee n a success , but , at tha t time , no one knew at wha t cost . After a n anxious , miserabl e fe w hours , da y a t las t bega n t o dawn . The Boe r fire had altogethe r ceased . Wit h th e cleare r ligh t cam e th e reason. Her e and there alon g th e enemy' s lines could be see n dirt y white flags. Cronj e ha d a t las t surrendered . Paardeber g ha d bee n won , an d lusty cheer s brok e fro m th e me n who ' ha d force d th e issue . Slouch hatted, long-bearde d burgher s bega n t o appea r fro m th e trenche s opposite . A fe w advanced , an d i n a fe w minute s victor s an d vanquishe d wer e Iraternizing. I t wa s strang e t o se e th e good-fellowshi p whic h existe d between th e grim y Canadian s soldier s an d th e rugge d unkemp t lookin g burghers who but a fe w hours befor e ha d poure d suc h a stor m o f lea d int o one another . Thus wa s Majub a avenge d o n it s anniversary , an d a t smal l cos t i n fife, fo r the Canadian s had obeye d order s wit h th e resul t tha t th e deadl y fire passed dve r the m a s they la y upo n the ground . Th e twent y o r thirt y who fell , kille d o r wounded , me t thei r fat e fo r the mos t par t durin g th e partial retirement.

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(.183-)

A Fij i Incident . (With Apologies to Sir Fielding Clarke.)

" Write withi n 100 0 words an account of the mos t interestin g inciden t actually experienced i n your caree r !" That' s wha t th e Yankee s woul d call a difficul t proposition . M y idea s o f wha t i s interestin g ma y diffe r entirely wit h th e idea s o f the apocrypha l Benjami n Binns ; however , her e goes. Some fe w year s ag o I wa s Stipendiar y Magistrat e an d Residen t Commissioner o f the Islan d o f Kadavu; a beautiful Islan d i n the Fij i Group. It wa s my first magistracy. One da y the Governmen t steame r " Clyde " appeare d a t Tavuki, the Roko's (nativ e King's ) villag e and my headquarters . The Governor' s ensign wa s flying at th e stern , an d som e bushy-heade d fuzzy-wuzzie s i n Government Hous e uniform , wh o coul d be see n o n the dec k o f the vessel , plainly tol d u s that th e Governor , th e lat e Si r Joh n Bate s Thurston , was aboard. Before th e gubernatoria l part y ca n lan d th e usua l native ceremonie s have t o b e gon e through . Th e Roko' s mata-ni-vanu a (herald ) swim s off unaccompanied t o the steame r wit h th e "qaloqalovi. " Upo n th e arriva l of a superio r chief a t an y plac e i n Fiji , th e omissio n o n th e par t o f the inhabitants t o swi m of f wit h th e "qaloqalovi " would, befor e annexation, have warrante d a n attack o n the village ; whe n the capture d female s would have bee n take n of f as slave s b y th e conqueror s and th e $nale s would have made "vuak a balavu"—literall y " long pig," an d bee n bake d an d eaten . " Qalo " is the ver b t o swim , an d th e custo m consist s o f swimming of f with a " tabua " (whale's tooth) whic h ha s t o b e presented . A

refusa l t o

accept i t would mean hostility . After clamberin g aboar d wit h this, th e heral d crawl s u p t o th e Governor o n hi s hand s an d knee s and , sittin g o n hi s haunche s tailo r

( 18 4 )

fashion, clap s hi s hand s an d grunts , an d the n proceed s t o addres s th e Governor i n the usua l formula, askin g hi m t o b e kindl y dispose d toward s them, tha t th e foo d plantation s hav e yielde d bu t poo r crop s thi s year , an d they hav e bu t littl e t o presen t a s ther e i s scarcity i n the land , an d t o b e of good min d an d loo k lightl y upo n thei r shortcomings . Thi s finished , h e holds th e tabua , whic h i s suspende d fro m a piec e o f sinnet , u p t o th e Governor, who touche s it , showing tha t h e accept s i t and incidentall y thei r demands. T o illustrat e the significanc e o f tabuas—pronounced tambuas—I would mentio n tha t whe n the Wesleya n Missionar y Bake r wa s killed an d eaten i n 1876 , a.tabu a wa s sen t ahea d o f hi m t o a chie f in the interio r of Vitilevu, with a reques t fro m th e distric t wher e Bake r ha d establishe d him self that h e b e killed . Bu t fo r th e acceptanc e o f tha t fata l whale' s toot h with th e accompanyin g request , Bake r woul d hav e survived . After thi s th e Rok o goe s of f t o th e steame r i n hi s cano e an d sur renders hi s staf f o f office t o hi s superio r chief , th e Governor , whic h is onl y handed bac k t o th e Rok o whe n the Governo r take s hi s departure from th e Roko's territory. Th e furthe r retentio n o f th e staf f the n woul d mea n th e suspension o f the Rok o fro m office . These preliminaries satisfactorily over, th e Governo r an d hi s party ca n land withou t their dignit y suffering . The y ar e receive d o n the beac h b y all th e squattin g townspeopl e wh o " tama " (grunt ) a s the Governo r approaches. " Ai sevu " (First fruits) are then presented. Th e " first-fruits " consist o f squealing pigs , chickens, a turtl e o r two , pile s o f fresh-dug yams and taro, an d alway s a roo t o f "kava " (th e Pipe r physticum , from th e chewed o r pounde d roo t o f which th e gro g o f th e Sout h Se a Islander s i s made). Bu t to ge t o n to m y " interesting incident. " Amongst the Governor' s part y wa s Si r Fieldin g Clarke , the n Chie f Justice o f Fiji, no w Chie f Justic e o f Jamaica . Afte r dinner , i n th e coo l moonlight o f the lovel y tropica l evening , Si r Joh n an d th e Chie f Justice., accompanied b y others , strolle d unde r th e cocoanu t palm s throug h th e village. A larg e nativ e hous e wa s passe d wher e a lo t o f young fellow s could be seen through the wide-ope n door playin g euchre— " cut throat"— on th * mats . I t i s about th e onl y gam e o f card s th e native s know , and

( 18 5 )

they ofte n pla y fo r hours wit h greas y card s besmeare d wit h th e cocoanu t oil with which they anoint thei r bodies . Besid e the m wa s another youn g fellow makin g a bowl of " kava." Si r Fielding Clark e detache d himsel f from th e party , entere d th e house , an d squatte d o n the mat s t o watc h th e players. The y deferentiall y mad e wa y fo r him , an d hande d hi m the firs t bowl of grog and the concomitan t " seluka." "Selukas " ar e nativ e cigar ettes mad e o f tobacco wrappe d i n dried banana lea f instead o f paper. Afte r a whil e he too k a han d i n the gam e o f cards and had a secon d bowl o f kava. and a secon d seluka , and rejoine d Si r Joh n a t a late hou r delighte d wit h the evening he had spent. I timidl y aske d hi m : " I suppos e yo u kno w what tha t big building is, Sir Fielding? " H e sai d : " What i s it? " I had to tel l hi m : " Why, it' s th e Provincia l Gaol , an d thos e * good fellows ' t o whom you refe r ar e the Provincia l prisoners ! " The Chie f Justic e collapsed , an d Si r Joh n roare d wit h laughte r a t him. I t wa s a standin g joke agains t Si r Fieldin g a s long a s h e remaine d in Fiji .

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( 18 7 )

The Devotion s o f a n Emperor . The Pekin g cart , a n abominable vehicle i n the bes t o f weather, jolte d and tumble d and bumped and splashe d throug h th e fou l se a of mud tha t stretched, ink y and noisome, between th e lo w walls flanking the alley-way s or th e tightl y battene d sho p front s tha t bordere d th e large r thorough fares. A lonely light her e an d there sen t its tail of yellow streakin g acros s the rain-swep t puddles . Occasionall y a cart lurche d pas t us . I n the mai n streets a fe w coolies , workin g eve n a t tha t hou r o f th e night , wer e putting the finishing touches on the causeway , raise d i n th e centr e o f the metropolitan road , ove r which the Yello w Empero r wa s to pass . The Llama , tru e to his word, wa s waiting at th e gate o f the Yun g H o Kung, the templ e whose seethin g hos t of Mongol monks has eve r been the nucleus fo r al l anti-foreig n demonstration s i n th e Chines e capital . Th e priest escorted m e to his cell an d ther e w e waited durin g the lon g hour s of the night . Toward s thre e o'clock , the tollin g o f the bell , solemn , dole ful, muffle d b y th e drummin g o f the stead y down-pour , calle d th e waitin g hundreds to their posts . Whe n th e shufflin g o f countles s fee t alon g th e path ha d die d away w e ventured out , an d starte d fo r the inne r courtyards. Gatemen an d guardian s had bee n wel l bribe d t o kee p th e secret , an d fro m a distanc e it woul d have bee n difficul t t o detec t th e presenc e o f a stranger. My hea d ha d bee n shor n afte r muc h patien t clippin g wit h a pai r o f nail scissors. I wor e a purple gow n and a fine red sas h an d m y silke n trousers were tucked int o tal l Mongo l boots , whil e the whol e wa s capped wit h a flat hat o f straw, tipped well forward t o hid e eye s an d nose , the mos t tell tale feature s o f the foreigner . We entere d a two-storied chape l in the secon d court . M y conductor dared no t spea k — he dre w hi s hand ominousl y across his throat an d le d m e up a fligh t o f rickety stairs , then pushe d m e unde r a n alta r a t th e en d o f

( 18 8 }

the sombr e room, and lef t me . Tapers , soake d i n sesame oil, wer e flicker ing befor e th e Asia n dietie s tha t wer e range d i n gri m grandeu r aroun d the hall . Th e alta r ornaments , gil t lotu s flowers , paire d fishes , grave n flags, stood i n gaunt rows . Heap s o f cakes , re d an d white , tempte d th e Divine appetit e ; wine , in the skull-bowl s of Thibet, stoo d read y t o quenc h even a God-lik e thirst . Fro m th e raftere d ceilin g strang e silke n scrolls , dusty, worm-eaten , hung like parti-coloured cobwebs. I venture d from m y stiflin g hiding-plac e t o reve l i n th e wonder s of the roo m ; but e'e r hal f its riddle s ha d bee n solved , I wa s scurrie d bac k to a corner, there t o crouc h as a venerabl e Llama creake d u p the stair-wa y and wandere d fro m alta r to alta r trimmin g th e lamps . Discover y woul d have brough t dow n upo n me the wrat h o f the Imperia l Body Guar d and a foreigner i n the vestment s of a Mongo l priest, his head shaven, woul d hav e been deprive d o f all the .glamou r that surround s th e sack-coa t an d panta loons o f the Occident . The da y wa s breaking . Eunuchs , soldiers , officials , hig h an d low , hurried back an d fort h i n th e cour t below . Mattin g wa s lai d ove r th e stone flagging ; al l was a bustle o f preparation . Ther e cam e th e soun d of a bugl e cal l from th e distance , then th e note s o f the marc h that on e hear s w'herever on e meets th e foreign-drille d troop s o f China . Th e Empero r was on his way. U p th e stee p stair s cam e th e guardia n to throw bac k th e doors whic h opene d o n th e balcony , tha t n o on e migh t pee r throug h a crack i n the wood-wor k o n th e Augus t Perso n o f His Majesty . Official s inspected the lowe r roo m an d wen t o n t o th e templ e yards beyond , t o make sur e tha t there wa s no intruder to profan e th e sanctit y o f the place s to b e blesse d wit h the Imperia l presence . Three priests crep t u p fro m belo w an d wit h the m I slippe d alon g o n my stomac h t o th e edg e o f th e balcon y where , through a n openin g i n th e carving,, I coul d se e all that happened. From th e entrance s o n th e Eas t and Wes t o f th e courtyar d cam e columns o f hig h priests , venerabl e men , gray-beards , yellow-robed , ga y with re d scar f an d gilt-lacquere d hat , swingin g censer s o r holdin g thei r rods o f office befor e the m a s the y marched . The y fel l bac k o n eithe r

( i»9 ) side o f the ston e terrac e tha t front s th e facad e o f th e templ e hall . A n official advanced , followe d b y fou r mor e priests ; then cam e th e Emperor , slight, boyish , timid he seemed . H e looke d neithe r to the righ t no r to th e left, bu t wit h measured ste p walke d toward s th e altar . Nin e Prince s of the Imperia l clan formed hi s suit e an d the y alon e wer e allowe d t o accom pany hi m to th e grea t door-way , t o stan d guar d whil e he mad e obeisanc e before th e Lor d Buddh a wh o grant s th e blesse d rai n an d gladden s th e world wit h sunshine , who cause s the see d t o sprou t an d ripen s the golde n grain. H e prayed , an d th e priest s chante d a deep , solemn , rumblin g song, oriental , weird , intone d i n Thibetan , th e tongu e o f th e Buddhisti c saints. The Empero r passe d o n unde r th e shado w o f th e silke n hanging s through th e heav y cloud s of incense that fille d the sanctuary . Th e Prince s moved forward , th e Llama s followed , chantin g a s the y marched , thei r censers swinging , their gil t hat s glistening, their gorgeou s robe s gleamin g in th e earl y mornin g sunlight. Th e "Lor d o f Ten Thousan d Years " ha d recognized th e existenc e o f a Divinity , a spiritual power before who m he , the Over-Lor d o f teemin g millions wh o worshi p hi m a s somethin g mor e than human , had thric e bowe d hi s proud head . Throug h th e crevic e in the balcony , a wondrou s pictur e i n it s grotesqu e frame , a Foreig n Devi l had see n th e So n o f Heaven ben d a reverentia l knee.

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( 19 ' )

Impression Penible . Impression penible ! oui, tres penibl e meme e t cett e impressio n je 1'a i eue l e samed i 2 0 fevrier, 1904 , a mon arrive e a u Japon . Je pensai s trouver l a serenite, reterne l sourir e Je pensai s trouve r 1'orient , l e soleil Je pensai s trouver l e Japo n enfrn ! J'a i trouv e l a guerre, de s bruit s de torpilles, j'ai trouve la neige, la pluie ; j'ai trouv e " Influenza." C'est l e Korea qui m'amena du pays du soleil, j'ai nomme la Californie , dans l e pays d u froid . Je m e promenais done a travers l e mond e comm e un e crout e d e pai n derriere un e malle , n e pensan t a rien , quan d u n cou p d e cano n vin t troubler m a serenite. L e Kore a stopai t immediatement , u n homm e d e guerre nou s barrait l a route. Le charm e etai t rompu , rno n pendul e etai t detraque , l a crout e d e pain n'etai t plus derriere l a malle En mettan t l e pied su r l a terre Japonaise , mo n pas etai t ma l assure e t la Jinrikisha qu e j e pris , s'e n allai t e n zigzaguan t comm e un e petit e personne ivre , sans avoir aucu n scrupule pou r me s pauvres os . C'es t qu e son ame , sa petite am e d e Jinrikisha, s'e n etai t alle e et suivait , l a bas , l a grande guerre . En allan t de Yokohama a Toky o dan s un d e ces elegants comparti ments d e ler e classe , emmen e a tout e vitess e ( 3 Km. a 1'heure) pa r un e locomotive hurlant e e t soufflante , u n jeun e Japonai s tre s bien mis et qu i nous egaya pendant tout l e traje t pa r un e tou x m'alodieuse , madress a l a parole dan s s a langue natale . J e cru s comprendr e qu'i l m e presentai t a une charmant e petite geish a assis e a ses cotes. J'avoue qu e m a premier e impressio n fu t pluto t mauvaise , penibl e

( '9 2 )

meme Cependan

t a l a longue , m a curiosit e 1'emport a e t j e m e fi s

repeter so n nom: "Influenza." Ne trouvez-vou s pas que c e nom a comm e u n certai n gou t d e terroir? Avec m a viv e imaginatio n e t m e rappelan t le s delicieu x roman s d e Pierre Loti , je vis dan s ce nom tout u n poeme e t j e m e pri s a suppose r qu'il signifiai t " Fleur d e Lotus." Helas! mon poem e fu t court e t j'appri s bie n vit e qu e "Influenza " voulait dir e " Fleur d e bronchite. " Mais cett e petit e personn e occupai t dej a mo n cervea u e t me s pensees . Le dirais-je ! de s frisson s secouaien t mo n corp s tou t entier , me s jambe s se derobaien t sou s moi , ma gorg e m e chatouillai t desagreablement , j'etai s pince ! Depui s cett e heur e ell e n e m e quitt a plus , s'attach a a me s pas, ne m e laissant , inexorable, aucu n momen t d e repit . J e n'a i plu s qu'un e idee, l a fuir . Kore u

a pou r moi , comm e pou r le s Japonais , es t deven u

synomyme d e terre promise, " et je m'entend s souven t murmurer : " " Je voudrais bie n y aller. "

( 19 3 )

How I Selecte d a Campaig n Outfit . I hav e bee n asked t o write about m y most interestin g experience a s a newspaper man. I t woul d be difficul t fo r me to selec t th e mos t interesting experience I have me t with sinc e I hav e been a membe r o f the profession / I hav e had man y interesting experiences , whic h var y al l th e wa y fro m assisting a trio of medical student s ro b a graveyar d t o watchin g soldier s kill on e another . Up to the tim e I arrive d in Toky o I was incline d to believ e that the mos t interestin g experience tha t eve r befel l m e was whe n I was called ou t o f a bo x sea t a t a circu s i n Shanghai , China , an d aske d t o officiate a s refere e o n a wrestling bou t betwee n a professiona l stron g ma n and a heavyweigh t pugilis t I wa s wel l aware , afte r I ha d give n th e decision against the prize-fighter , that i t was a n occasio n fairly teeming w ith ' interest- And , judgin g fro m th e vociferou s manne r in whic h th e mal e portion of the audienc e demande d anothe r instalmen t 01 the performance , I fel t quit e sure that the y to o were intereste d i n wha t the demonstrato r of the manl y art o f self-defense di d to me . But durin g the time I hav e bee n i n Toky o awaiting permissio n t o g o to the front , I hav e concluded that m y most interestin g experienc e has been in getting a field outfit together . I wa s in the Philippin e Islands whe n th e Japanes e starte d i n to polis h off th e Russians , and as soon as I could find a steamer tha t was bound this way, I packed u p my tools and hied m e henceward . Before I arrived I was under th£ impression that I could go to the scene of carnag e wit h th e fiel d equipmen t I brought fro m Manila,,3.n d which I had alway s found t o be ampl e fp r th e need s of any wa r correspondent * I t consisted mainl y of a tin mess pan , a pair o" f leathe r leggin's , a toot h brus h and a lead pencil. Bu t before Iha d been in the capita l ten minute s I dis -

C 19 4 ) covered tha t I knew nothing at all about it. Several goo d friend s tol d m e tha t I woul d have t o joi n the " Ah Shing Cadets/ ' which,upo n inquiry, I learne d wa s th e officia l nam e given the correspondent s because a Chines e tailor named A h Shin g wa s assisting them to expan d thei r expens e account s b y furnishin g the m wit h a sor t o f orphan schoo l unifor m mad e o f corduroy , an d b y courtes y calle d a riding suit. I joined th e cadets , but the minut e I clothe d mysel f in the corduroy riding suit it struck me that there wa s something lacking. After severa l minutes of heart to heart talk with my fellow cadets I learned what was needed to fill the aching void. I t was a saddle . I bought one. Quite naturally , a saddl e i s not o f much use withou t a horse, unles s it is used t o trim a Christma s tree. S o I decide d to buy a horse . Before I starte d ou t to becom e th e owne r of a hors e I ha d no idea that i n all the world there were as many horses a s were offere d me . Ever y other ma n I me t had a horse tha t wa s of great valu e to him , but whic h he was ready t o part wit h if I though t I coul d us e the anima l in rushing new s back from th e front . Now, i f ther e i s anythin g i n thi s worl d whic h I kno w absolutel y nothing abou t i t is a horse . I f I starte d ou t t o becom e th e owne r o f a street-car o r even a hearse, I migh t b e able t o mak e a fai r bargain . Bu t a horse—well, a horse i s the limit. Of all the horse s I inspected the one that looked bes t t o m e \va s a littl e spotted Chin a pony which I foun d a t Yokohama . I ha d mad e up m y mind to buy hi m when I wa s informed tha t he was a racing pon y tha t ha d bee n brought to Yokohama t o do grea t thing s o n th e rac e track . I learned , also, tha t he ha d don e thing s o n the track , bu t the y were no t o f sufficien t greatness t o induc e bettor s t o inves t i n tickets o n him th e secon d time . So I did not buy him. I am willing to go to war on horseback, bu t I'l l be everlastingly condemne d i f I'll g o int o battle o n the bac k o f a secon d han d racehorse. But I bough t a hors e thi s morning . Sinc e I hav e owne d hi m several well meanin g war correspondent s hav e tol d m e that h e ha s a few

( 19 5 ) defects, amon g them being a lam e le g ; but tha t is not worryin g m e a t all, for an y foo l ca n see tha t h e stil l has thre e goo d legs . Up to date I have a riding outfit and a horse to go with it, a tent with my name on it in freight car letters, and a few tons of miscellaneous paraphernalia, and a m now negotiating the purchase of a watchdog. I

d o not know why I

should g o t o wa r with a watchdog, bu t o n the othe r han d I hav e bee n unable t o find anyone wh o ca n give m e any valid reason wh y I shoul d no t take one . My field outfit is almost complete. I n checking over a memorandum of the thing s I hav e bee n told t o provide mysel f with, i find I hav e procured everything except a pianola, alarm clock, ice-cream freezer, lac e curtains for the tent , chestnu t roaster, eas y chair , umbrella , and a safet y deposi t vaul t for th e dog .

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( 19 7 )

Sognando! Mia amata , dolcissim a Ersilia , \ E solament e mezz'or a che m i so n levat o da l lett o e t i scrivo . T i scrivo mentr e fuor i tutt o e silent e ; tutt o dorm e ancor a nell a quiet e ! II Sole , facend o capolin o dall e vett e dell e lontan e montagne , vien e a baciare, co n i suo i ragg i dorati , l e coroll e dischius e a l baci o dell a tenue mattinat a primaveril e e l a pallid a lun a piegand o semprepi u a d ovest, viene a rischiarare la nnestra tua. Mentre scriv o t u dormi ; dorm i u n sonn o d i pac e e quiete , felic e e tranquill o !.. Non tenerm i il broncio s e stavolt a no n m i servo d i parol e amoros e ; se no n t i ripet o ancora che t'am o tanto e tanto, mi a doicissima . No; permettimi che no n ti ripeti le sole parol e ch e l e labbr a sappian o pronunziare; permett i ch e stavolta—pe r quest a volt a sola—t i raccont o quanto h o sognato. Ascolt a : Era tardi iersera quando sfogliavo 1'ultima pagine de l " Things Japanese " d i Chamberlain. I rintocch i dei r orologi o a campan a m'annunzia vano le due . Er o stanco ; ave o lett o abbastanz a e no n appen a gira i l a chiavetta della lampadina elettrica , m i addormentai. E sognai ; sogna i trovarm i a Pechino, durant e la rivolta de i Boxers. Eravamo rifugiat i nell a nostra Legazione , ove trovavans i poch e provvigioni alimentari e e d un a assai povera cantina. II saperc i assediati , no n er a ch e Tultim a nostr a preoccupazione . Conoscevamo i Chinesi; i l sapevamo incapaci di quant o malauguratamente oprarono e passavam o i nost i giorn i i n splendit e colazion i e pranz i luculliani. Ma ben presto l e alimentarie volsero a l termine e cos i pure la cantina. Le comunicazion i telegrafiche co n Tientsin , essend o interrotte , no n ci davano alcuna opportunita d i ricever e soccorsi .

( 19 3 )

Cosi passammo quasi un mese dopo del quale alia noncuranza subentr o il panico ; a l sorris o l a mestizia, ali a speranz a lo sconfort o ! Quando 1'ultim o biscott o f u consumato , passamm o ali a Legazion e d'Inghilterra. Chi dimentichera . piu que i giorni trascorsi no n a d altro ch e a continue fucilate contr o i ribelli ? Chi dimenticher a quell e person e che , avventurates i fuor i dell a Legazione, no n ritornaron o piu ? Chi potr a obbliar e que i volt i d i bimb i innocenti , pallidi , sconvolti , terrorizzati, strett i a l pett o dell e lor o mamme , ch e a d ogn i colp o d i moschetto, davan o i n pianti e sussult i ? Ch i potra pi u cancellare dal cuore quelle espression i d i dolori , quell e lagrim e che , irrigand o i l vis o dell e tenere madri , cadevan o su l cap o dell e lor o creatur e sparut e ? lo no n potr o enumerarti , Ersili a dolcissima , quant e centinai e d i proiettili nemici si conficcavano nell e mur a de l nostr o ricovero ; m a dove a no essere parecchie . I nost i colp i erano inoffensiv i certamente , dappoich e non scorgevam o i ribelli che, provvist i di ottimi ^vatterly—ultimo modello—e d alcuni vecchi cannoni, eseguivano tir i di precisione. Quando, giungend o l a sera, i l fuoco cessava , stanchi , sfiniti , esaust i d i forze e speranze , lasciavamo il nostro post o d i combattimento, per passar e al dining-room, no n avevam o altr o pa s to ch e dell a carn e marcit a d i cavallo e rarament e u n pezzo di cane arrost o ! lo avevo completament e perdut o l o stomaco , e l a gol a er a ribell e a fa r passare quest o cib o tuttaltr o che delicato. Un ' altra settimana ancor a che s i fosse prolungato Tassedio , sarei mort o certamente . Dei Chinesi—fedel i ai loro padroni—ogni giorno venivano ad anunziarci I'arrivo de i soldati ; m a dall'alba sin o a quand o i l Sole s i coricava dietr o i colli lontani , nessun o giungeva ! Un mattino, quando i colpi di moschetto fischiavano numerosi, giunsero nel cortil e i soliti boies gridando : Th e soldiers, the foreign soldiers. Era i l medesimo annunzio quotidiano al quale d a temp o no n davam o piu ascolto .

( 19 9 )

Ma dopo poch i minuti , com e pe r incantesimo , i l fuoc o nemic o er a cessato, e da l Canal e Imperial e i soldat i entravan o i n Pechino . Prim i fra essi i Giapponesi, che , accolt i a fucilat e da i boxers , impavidi , avanzando , venivano a liberarci ! Lasciammo l a Legazion e e d unit i a i soldat i mettemrn o i n fug a i l nemico che , accoccolat o ne i tetti dell e lor o catapecchie , tiravan o s u no i a mezzo d'u n buc o praticato fr a i mattoni . Accadde u n massacro ! Ogn i cavall o trovato , divenn e proprieta di noialtr i borghes i ch e i n pattugli e d i diec i o dodici , scorazzavam o l e praterie sconfinando i ribelli. Delia mi a piccola brigata er o Fultimo , essend o i l mio cavall o vecchio , debole e malconcio abbastanza . Ero lontan o da i miei compagni u n trecento metri, quand o l a mi a be stia, ricevend o u n proiettil e nell a spall a sinistra , cadde com e fulminato . Nella cadut a senti i spezzarm i una gamba e non avev o ancor a tentat o d'alzarmi, quand o u n Boxer d i corsa s'avvi a vers o d i me , co n l a sciabol a squainata. I I suo viso era tanto orribile, da incutere paura al solo guardarlo. Tolgo l a mia rivoltella da l fodero e mirandogl i al petto er o pe r fa r partir e il colpo , quando u n altro Chines e mi assesta uu a sciabolat a ali a testa. II sangu e m ' innond a il viso ; cad o agonizzant e !

In quest o moment o i l mio boy bussando ali a porta dell a camer a entr a portandomi i l mattutino caff e ; m a rest a com e esterefatt o ! Dai capell i mi colava su l guancial e e su l vis o ancor a 1'acqu a dell a bottiglia preparat a su l comodino, mentr e nell a destra impugnavo la candela. Aveo sognat o dell ' assedi o de l 190 0 !

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(201 )

Saved b y a Deser t Quail . It wa s a mere incident , just a bi t ou t o f th e " damnable ordinary, " quite unimportan t t o al l th e worl d exceptin g onl y t o Carmelita , me — and the rattlesnake . I had been " riding slanting" for days toward the scene of the threatene d outbreak amon g th e long-sufferin g trib e o f Copah Indians , o n th e edg e o f the yello w Mojav e desert , i n the Lan d Wher e i t is Alway s Afternoon . I f you as k m e about it , I wil l tell you tha t I afterwar d reache d th e ruction center i n time t o se e the bedeville d aborigines kic k u p a dea l o f dus t an d trouble, attended thei r wa r councils , slep t i n thei r pol e romada s fo r many weeks, and trekked wit h the dusky, baffled exile s westward t o a point where Greed an d Chican e may not agai n stea l thei r poo r homes , whic h had bee n theirs " ever sinc e Go d mad e th e Mes a Grand e ; " bu t all tha t i s a longer and a very differen t story . For man y months , for health's sake , I ha d bee n doin g m y editoria l work i n the saddl e an d by th e lonel y deser t an d mountai n trail. I wa s also a Unite d State s Range r i n charge o f a distric t o f the Fores t Reserve , com prising th e whol e of La Liebr e mountai n range an d a fractio n o f th e Grea t Thirst Land , t o the east , wher e Natur e n o longer display s materna l tenderness, bu t show s herself only a niggardl y an d austere stepmother . A wee k before , th e captai n o f our Ranger s ha d requeste d m e t o ex plore tha t unknow n regio n an d to blaz e a trail , o n m y wa y t o th e Agu a Caliente India n villages of adobe ; and thi s i s wha t happene d t o m e afte r I had los t m y cantee n o n one o f the hottes t reache s o f thos e 20,00 0 squar e miles o f the Devil' s Bac k Yard . With a sil k handkerchief tied ove r m y nostril s to kee p the bitte r alkal i dust out , for three day s I and Carmelita had " bucked " the barbed chemi cal and mesquit e an d fough t throug h th e daggere d yucca s an d leather y

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manzanita. Ove r th e blisterin g sands , u p and dow n th e bakin g shoulder s of th e vas t huddl e o f granit e giants , no w pickin g ou r wa y wearil y an d gingerly ove r th e loos e rubbl e o f a a dea d watercours e gloome d i n b y the wall s o f a mile-dee p canon , now toiling up and up, along th e bon y spin e of a thin "hogback " o r mountai n ridge , a s peake d a s th e lette r A an d with the shar p up-swin g o f Fujiyama, we struggled , the thermometer crawling fro m IO Q degree s i n th e mornin g t o 12 0 at noon . Here wer e n o mountain s in emerald coronatio n robes, bu t onl y water less desert-stuf f piled high, shimmerin g in eternal silence, relieved by clumps of dusty greasewoo d chaparra l an d cacti , and spanne d by a sk y o f hot brass . To th e nort h and west, for a hundred miles, rose cres t o n crest o f jagged yellow peaks , buttresse d b y long " hogbacks " of decomposed granite . T o the east , see n throug h th e notche s o f the ridges , cu t b y dr y arroyo-bed s and studde d thinl y with fantastic, twisted yucca-palms, the palpitatin g deser t stretched, bake d an d flat , ou t t o th e fa r ri m o f th e world . Southward , somewhere beyon d thi s vas t audienc e chambe r o f Satan , la y th e Copa h Indian village —and perhaps m y deliverance; quien sabe ? Two day s withou t food o r water, I ha d zig-zagge d wit h m y le d bronc o u p an d dow n mile high chunk s of desert, belche d u p an d forgotte n b y Pluto , an d left ther e o n edge, hot , lawless , fantasticall y chaotic , unexplored , dead . The yea r wa s at it s hottest. Gam e ther e wa s none . I ha d insulte d my stomac h wit h sundr y offering s o f youn g an d bitte r chilicoth e tuber s and handful s o f sour , juiceles s manzanit a berries . Al l da y long , t o brin g moisture, I ha d rolle d a pebble i n my dr y mouth . Not a sig n o f life ha d I see n fo r three wear y days , sav e tw o horribl e carrion-ravens tha t followe d lik e silen t demon s and perche d t o shak e th e white dus t fro m thei r ebo n shoulders , and leere d evill y at th e spen t bronc o and famishin g rider, and followe d again—an d waited—waited . Ther e wa s never a bird-note, no r the trac k o f a dee r o r a puma, but onl y th e blinkin g of the horne d toa d an d th e petulan t buz z o f the great , fat rattlesnake . Too spen t a t last t o walk , I clun g weakl y t o the saddl e horn , swaying, my head droopin g lowe r and lower. Th e pebbl e droppe d ou t o f my mouth , hot an d dry. Stil l m y prett y mar e plowe d heroicall y throug h th e san d

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along th e roo f o f th e ridge . Th e butte s an d th e sk y gre w blurre d an d darker, thoug h I kne w that the su n was still beating dow n fiercely . Presently w e stumbled over portions of a human mummy , som e gra y rags, and the rotte n wrec k o f a Spence r rifle . Ha d tha t dea d Thing , too , once fough t th e battl e wit h th e desert , an d babble d o f coo l grove s an d plashing streams ? Ha d he , too, gon e ma d wit h listenin g t o th e growin g clangor an d boom o f that inferna l Silenc e ? Ha d h e du g hi s bleedin g finge r stumps into the blistering gravel, moaning thickly over his blackened tongue, " Agua ! Madre d e Dios ! Agua " ? o o Faugh ! I t i s enough t o nerve on e t o conque r Hades . O n I toiled , my poo r beas t followin g i n pathetic trustfulness . You mus t know that i n the Grea t Thirs t Lan d there i s n o moistur e in the ai r to mak e de w for the fevere d night , an d tha t al l th e da y th e fierce heat suck s one' s ver y marro w dr y as a sponge , s o tha t thoug h h e drin k every hal f hour, the travele r i s alway s athirst . God s ! Ho w man y day s since w e ha d taste d water— I an d Carmelit a ? I fel t th e deser t madnes s comin g on, and fough t it . I kne w that yon der coo l lak e wit h it s fronde d margin , tha t glimmere d beyon d th e re d buttes to the Eas t wa s a mirage. I kne w tha t th e Devil' s Tatto o whic h roared i n my ear s wa s th e subconsciou s " Taranta— taranta—taranta " of death. M y tongue, blackene d an d swollen , fille d m y throat , an d thrus t out betwee n m y cracke d lips. The Thirs t Lan d swun g 'roun d an d 'round . Th e worl d turned black . I clutche d ineffectuall y a t Carmelita' s nec k and shoulder , an d fell , wit h m y face i n the sand . A loud , angry " Sk-r-r-r-r ! " within a yard o f my head galvanize d me into life . I t wa s the challeng e o f th e deadl y rattlesnak e ; bu t tha t buz z meant no t death , bu t hop e o f life t o m e ! I spran g t o m y knees . I hurle d down a roc k int o the grea t yello w coil . Hal f stunned , he writhe d dow n th e steep cano n side. I crawle d after , an d despatche d hi m ; an d I remembe r laughing alou d a s I rippe d th e mottle d ski n fro m hi s sides . Crawlin g back, I secure d a stewpan from m y saddlebags , buil t a fir e o f dea d mes quite sticks, cu t the five-foot Terror o f the Deser t int o shor t sections , an d

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in ten minute s was tearing the great , half-broiled an d steamin g morsels with my teeth. Neve r wa s ther e tende r cutle t or fricassee d quai l s o swee t o f savor a s tha t frie d rattlesnake . Th e fles h wa s white , tough , an d a bi t stringy, but i t wa s ful l o f oil, and i t mean t life . Strengthened, I remove d th e heav y saddle , an d caresse d th e poo r mare. He r fine eyes were dull , her hea d low , so that her long, wavy mane swept the sand . Feebl y she trie d to nibbl e the dea d top s of a clum p of wild buckwheat, but th e wir y shreds fel l ou t o f her mouth , dry. On w e toiled again, til l at nightfal l w e reache d th e shee r en d o f th e ridge. Despai r seize d m e whe n I sa w tha t thre e side s wer e almos t a s steep a s a Quee n Ann e roof , an d hal f a mil e to th e bowlde r was h a t th e base. W e mus t go back . I tosse d o n my blanket til l midnigh t whe n th e sand s cooled , an d I slept, dreamin g of Dante i n hell. I n the mornin g I sa w that Carmelita ha d not move d ou t o f her tracks . Bloo d re d an d fiercel y hot , a t half-pas t fiv e the su n leaped ove r the du n crags an d I kne w tha t I mus t find a sprin g of water tha t da y o r Carmelit a an d I ha d see n ou r last sunrise . " At any rate," I reflected , grimly , " I shal l hav e thi s cosmi c cemeter y al l t o myself, an d escape a lyin g epitaph. " Suddenly m y despai r wa s change d t o joy . I hear d afa r dow n th e canon a faint, mellow " O-hi-o ! O-hi-o ! "as pleasant as a " Good morning "* from a pretty musum e i n Tokyo. I t wa s the clear , far call of the Californi a valley quail—an d i t sai d t o ear s verse d i n desert-craft , " Here i s water ! " For le t me tell you that wher e the quai l is at dawn, there i s water. I trie d t o urg e m y mare toward the sound, but sh e would not lift a hoof* She was " all in." Seizin g a ti n ca n I plunge d dow n th e declivity . I n a clump of alders hidde n b y crags , hal f a mil e below , I foun d th e life-givin g waters bubbling up, clea r and fre e a s Truth. I fel t lik e erectin g a shrin e there and worshippin g Water. Neve r befor e ha d I know n it s meaning . Filling m y ca n an d m y sombrero , I toile d painfull y an d carefull y u p th e rocky acclivity , carrying lif e t o Carmelita . Thre e time s I repeate d th e trip . Then, making a long detou r I brough t her dow n to the spring . * Th e Japanes e \vor d fo r "Good morning ' i s pronounce d "O-hi-o."

(205) As w e approached the littl e pool, there stoo d cock y littl e Tasse l To p on on e foot , searchin g m e wit h innocent , inquirin g eye , ignoran t o f th e savagery o f civilized man , therefore unafraid . Impelle d by the brut e instinct of hunger, I jerked m y carbine fro m th e saddle-scabbard , whil e m y mare , her nos e thrust half to the eye s int o the pool , dran k greedily; levelle d i t at Don Chiquito Quail, and then lowere d it , ashamed . "No, little O-hi-o, " I said , aloud, "yo u hav e save d ou r lives . Lif e i s as swee t t o yo u a s t o me . G o in peace ; and lik e Abou Be n Adhem , ma y your tribe increase. " H e ra n off , clucking an d bowing , an d th e raven s wheeled awa y to the Thirs t Land. Then, whil e m y bronco munched the scan t sal t grass , I picke d th e semi-circular bones ou t o f what wa s lef t o f m y frie d rattlesnake , munche d the toug h whit e fiber, and afterwar d la y fo r a n hou r wit h my chi n on m y fists, staring, wide-eyed an d wider-souled, int o th e hear t o f the pool—int o new and vaste r heavens—an d wa s content .

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A Boxe r Charge. Under the ancient walls of the Tayar city towards the en d o f the uniqu e campaign o f 1900 , a colum n o f Germa n infantry , wit h baggag e an d provisions for a three day' s expedition , is slowly moving through th e heav y sand i n a southwesterl y direction. I t i s a col d mornin g with a ting e o f dampness i n the ai r and th e smar t Germa n officer s i n thei r delicat e gre y blue militar y cloak s buttone d u p a t th e throa t see m somewha t ou t o f keeping wit h their surrounding s the yellow-face d convoy driver s an d thei r dingy littl e ponies . The Allie s occup y th e Chines e Capital , th e cour t ha s fle d an d all fears o f a yellow peril war has agai n die d away . Th e inciden t I a m abou t to relat e ca n onl y claim attention from th e fac t o f i t bein g a n aspec t o f warfare no w fas t disappearing , a charg e o f fanatica l fightin g me n o f th e most ancien t civilisation ; poor volunteers , for that i s what th e Boxer s were , members o f secret societie s wh o ha d swor n to driv e the foreig n devil s into the sea ; wh o wit h thei r homemad e sword s an d ol d rifle s mad e a desperate charg e o n the rank s o f the bes t discipline d troops o f Europe. The colum n started thi s mornin g with th e objec t o f destroyin g on e of the las t band s o f Boxers T o hol d togethe r sinc e the relie f o f Peking. W e had informatio n tha t the y hel d a villag e o n th e sout h o f Hunting Park , where gam e wa s formerly preserved fo r the spor t o f the Emperor s o f China Our roa d la y through fields of giant millet or kowliang , growing to a height of i o o r 1 2 feet , India n corn and othe r crop s mostl y lyin g rottin g on th e ground fo r the wan t o f reaping. Th e village s w e cam e upo n were fo r th e most par t deserted , excep t a fe w ol d peopl e to o feebl e t o fle e an d th e pariah dog s who i n the mids t of desolation were thriving. Tw o day s passed in this marchin g throug h th e countr y collecting an d burnin g quantities of arms and ammunitio n found i n the villages , bu t n o sign o f th e Boxer s til l

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the afternoo n o f the thir d day found u s on our way back, with littl e prospec t of coming upon them. Th e colum n wa s marchin g throug h th e desolat e cornfields b y the narro w tracks an d occasiona l open clearings . I thin k we had forgotte n al l about th e objec t of the expeditio n when we were withou t any warning greated b y a sharp cracking of rifle fire and almost immediately found ourselve s i n a larg e clearin g an d facin g u s th e whol e ban d o f the Boxers, wit h th e lo w wal l o f th e Huntin g Par k o n ou r lef t fron t line d with th e Chines e rifleme n i n thei r glowin g re d turbans , throw n in stron g relief by th e settin g sun . A detachmen t o f the German s was immediatel y told of f to settl e account s with the me n behind th e wall , whil e th e troop s I accompanied , drawn u p in close order with the Germa n flag planted in the centre, wer e replyin g t o th e rifle s o f our enem y i n the clearing . Afte r about a n hou r of desultory firing on bot h sides , th e whol e remainin g band of Boxers , leavin g al l cove r tha t the y ha d bee n availin g themselve s of , banded togethe r withou t any appearance of order or method, with their hug e black an d whit e banners inscribe d wit h Chines e character s wavin g abov e them and . led by a big Manch u on a roug h Chines e pony , the y advance d on the Germans . Wha t an extraordinany scene , banners, swords an d rifle s all mixed together , th e dul l blu e o f thei r peasants , costum e relieve d b y the brillian t scarlet sashe s and turbans which made u p thei r uniform , thei r yellow face s gleamin g i n the settin g sun , distorted wit h savag e crie s onl y a mo b rushing to their death . Fo r wh y should they fear ? Eac h ma n carries in thi s sas h strip s of yellow paper carefull y wrappe d u p and covere d wit h mystic character s blesse d b y thei r priest s which the y firml y believ e wil l render the m imperviou s to th e bullets of the foreig n devils. Afte r th e first volley poure d int o them half of them were no more. Anothe r volle y foun d the no w darkenin g cornfiel d covere d wit h heap s o f re d an d blu e clot h mixed u p with pike s an d banners . Th e whol e thin g wa s lik e a drea m it was over s o quickly . A n hou r afterwar d we were cookin g ou r evenin g meal in their village, their ghastly painte d gods from th e Joss house forming the fue l fo r ou r campfires .

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" Four Ston e Ten." " Rack correspondent will be allowed baggage not exceeding eight " kwan (four stone ten founds) in weight" Extract from letter addressed by the Chief of Staff to Foreign War Correspondents.

'Twas a sprightl y corresponden t an d he me t m e in the Strand , " Will yo u come wit h me across th e se a to happy Jappy-lan d ? " Now I wen t with he across th e sea , but, here's a funn y thing— In Tokyo , yo u know , h e ha d anothe r son g t o sin g : " Oit's column one, and column two, and where th e deuc e am I ? " And wil l the offic e rais e the dib s ? and is the climat e dry ? " And wha t about m y camp canteen ? and how, and where, and when, " Can any fellow se e the blesse d sho w o n four ston e te n " ? I soothep l him with Manhattan s while he dre w m e up a list Of things tha t must accompan y the erran t journalist, There were shovels , spades , and pickaxes, a patent stov e or two, A cottag e tent a regiment coul d march i n column through, Canned good s galore , o f boots a scor e o f pairs o f quain t desig n From Veltschoen o f the Burghe r typ e t o fel t shoe s numbe r nine ; Six suit s o f clothes fo r Manchu snows that cos t a tidy yen I tol d hi m he mus t wor k his kit to tally fou r ston e ten . He too k m e to his room, and showed a pet contrivanc e whic h With skille d manipulatio n would work withou t a hitch , He fondle d natt y sketchin g gear , an d shed a tear upo n A telescopi c washandstan d he' d bough t i n Oregon. He'd a bedstead an d patent chair ^ collapsible n o doubt -

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And a mil e o f butter muslin t o kee p mosquite s out; His undergarment s would suffice a doze n healthy men I tol d hi m he mus t boil it down, and carr y fou r ston e ten . Somewhere nea r the Yal u Rive r I me t him once again, Outside th e Fiel d Pos t Office , sittin g in the mu d an d ram, With th e regulatio n bandage on his Europea n arm, And o n his mud-bespattere d face a smil e o f pious calm; His breath wa s short fro m running , though h e carrie d little load Beyond a Col t revolver, and a map to sho w the road , And a n old colonial haversack where , hidden sun g an d warm , Lay a doze n army biscuits and a crumpled cable form . I aske d hi m where his outfit wa s : he answered with a grin" A squa d of Cossacks lef t m e just what I'm-sittin g in : " But let them keep m y patent dud s and raid till all is blue ; " I've gathere d in the rarest scoop and the Censor's passed it through!" " O its column this and column that, an d what's the odd s at all ? " You can stick i t out on little when your back's against th e wall , " But, if you meet th e convo y when you are goin g bac k again , " Just tell them I' d be precious glad t o get that fou r ston e ten ! "

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APPENDIX 1 PAINFUL IMPRESSIO N Translation of C. Victo r Thomas's "Impression Penible" by Carey Cupit

Painful impression ! Yes, very painful indeed , an d I had this impression on Sat urday, the 20t h of February, 1904 , upon my arrival in Japan. I thought I would find serenity, the eternal smile . . . I thought I would find the orient, the sun . . . I thought I would finally find Japan! I found th e war, the soun d of torpedoes, I found snow , rain; I found "Influenza. " It's Kore a that brought m e from th e country of the sun, named California, to the countr y of cold. I wa s trotting acros s the worl d a s though I wer e crust s o f bread fallin g aimlessly from a hamper of food, when cannon fire disrupted my serenity. Korea halted tha t immediately, a man of war was blocking ou r route . . . The charm was broken, my watch was on the blink, no longer was I a crust of bread. Upon settin g foo t o n Japanese soil, m y steps were rather unsure , and th e Jinrikisha that I took conducted itself in a zigzag pattern like a little drunk person, without havin g any scruples for my poor bones. It's tha t his soul, his little Jinrikisha soul , went away , and following that, over there, wa s the big war. It wa s going fro m Yokoham a to Tokyo i n on e of these elegan t first-clas s compartments, brought t o high spee d (3 km a n hour) by a huffing an d scream ing locomotive , a young an d very well dresse d Japanese person brightened u p our journey with a dreadful cough , an d addressed me in his native language. I believed tha t he was going t o introduc e m e to a charming littl e geisha seate d nearby. I admi t that my first impression was rather terrible , painfu l eve n . . . Yet

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in the long run, my curiosity got the better o f me and I found mysel f repeating his name: "Influenza." Do you not find that this nam e has a certain rural taste? With my active imagination recalling the delicious novels of Pierre Loti, I saw in this nam e an entire poem an d I took t o supposing that it meant, "Lotu s Flower." Alas! My poem was cut short and I quickly learned that "Influenza" means "Bronchitis Flower. " But this little person was already occupying my brain and my thoughts. I tell you! The shivers ran through m y entire body, my legs gave way beneath me , my throat tickled disagreeably ; I was pinched! Since that time it has not left me, attaching itself to my steps, never leaving me, inexorable, no moment of respite. I was left wit h but on e idea, to flee. Korea for me, as for the Japanese, had be come synonymous with "the promise d land," an d I ofte n hea r mysel f murmur: "I would very much like to go there. "

APPENDIX 2 DREAMING! Translation o f Alberto Troise's "Sognando!" by Dennis G. Martine z

My Love, sweetes t Ersilia , It's onl y been a half an hour since I've been out of bed, and I write to you. I write to you while outsid e everything is silent; everything sleep s in the calm . The Su n peak s out fro m th e summi t of the fa r off mountains; it comes to kiss with its golden rays; the corollas are open to the kiss of the sof t Sprin g morning and th e pal e moon pushing ever so further t o the west, i t comes to illuminat e your window. While I write, yo u sleep; you sleep a sleep of peace and calm , happy and tranquil. Don't be upset if I am not offering amorou s words; if I don't repeat to you again that I love you so much, my sweetest. No; allow me not to repeat the onl y words my lips are accustomed to pronouncing; allo w me this time , just thi s on e time—I will tell how I dream t of you. Listen : It was late yesterday evening when I was leafing through the last pages of Chamberlin's "Things Japanese." The strokes of the clock announced to me that it was two o'clock. I was tired; I had read quite a bit, and I had not even turned off the electri c lamp switch, an d I had fallen asleep . I dreamt; I dreamt I was in Peking, during the Boxer Rebellion. We foun d refug e i n ou r Legation , wher e on e could find little food an d a bleak wine cellar. Being besieged was the leas t of our concerns. We were familiar wit h th e Chinese; we knew them t o be incapable of harm as they worked s o poorly. De spite the circumstances we managed to pass our days in splendid breakfasts an d lavish lunches with what was available to us.

(2I4) But soon food cam e to an end and the wine as well. The telegraphic com munications with Tientsin havin g been interrupted, we had n o opportunity to ask for help . We went on like this for a month an d soon panic set in; Dismay, Hope and Discomfort rejoice d in our presence! . . . When the last cookie was consumed, we went to the Englis h Legation . Who ca n forget that those day s we lived throug h wer e nothin g bu t con tinuous shooting a t the rebels? Who ca n ever forget those people who ventured out of the Legation, never to return? Who ca n forget those faces of the innocent children, pale, shocked, terrorized, clinging to the bosom of their mothers, every shot of the muskets, making them jump and cry ? Who ca n obliterate fro m thei r heart s those expression s of pain, those tears that irrigated the face s o f the tende r mothers and fell o n their lean creatures? I can't count, sweetest Ersilia, how many hundreds of enemy fire landed in the walls of our refuge, bu t it had to be an impressive amount. Our shot s wer e surel y ineffective agains t th e rebel s who wer e equippe d with excellen t watterlys —the lates t model—an d som e ol d cannon s that the y shot accurately. At th e arriva l of evening, th e shootin g woul d cease . Tired, undone , exhausted of strength an d hope, we would leave our combat posts, so to go to th e dining room. We ha d nothin g els e to eat but som e rotten hors e meat and rarely a piece of dog roast! . . . I had completely lost my appetite, and my throat rebelled against this foo d that was anything but delicate. Had th e sieg e continued yet for one more week, I would hav e certainly died. The Chinese—loyal to thei r masters—ever y day came to announc e to us the arriva l of reinforcements; fro m sunris e until th e Su n would la y behind th e distant hills, n o one arrived! . . . One Morning, whe n th e shot s of the musket s whistled continuously , and the usua l boys yelled: The soldiers, the foreignsoldiers.

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It was the sam e quotidian announcement to which we no longer paid any attention. But afte r a few minutes, almos t by enchantment, enem y fire ceased, th e soldiers entered Peking along the Imperial Way. The first among them were the Japanese; they were greeted b y shots fro m th e Boxers ; fearless, the y advanced; they were coming to free us ! .. . We left th e Legatio n an d joined with the soldier s to rout the enem y who crouched on the roofs of their dilapidated dwellings. They were throwing bricks down a t us through holes . A massacre occurred! . .. Every horse became the property of us, the bourgeoisie. I n patrol s o f ten o r twelve , w e ra n throug h th e field s dispersin g th e rebels. I was the last one in my small brigade, because my horse was old, weak and pretty out of shape. I wa s about thre e hundre d meter s fro m m y companions, when m y beast took a projectile in his left shoulder . It fel l a s if struck by lightning . In th e fal l I fel t m y leg break. I ha d no t yet attempte d t o ge t up when a Boxer came running toward me , saber pointed. His fac e was so horrible that it instilled fea r just looking a t it. I pulled out my revolver from th e holster an d pointed it at his chest to fire a shot, when anothe r Chinese slashed on my head. Blood flowed down my face; I fell in agony! . . . At thi s poin t m y boy was knocking on the doo r of the roo m bringing me my morning coffee; bu t he was horrified! . . . The water from th e bottle that was on the bedside table was running down my hair an d fac e ont o th e pillow , whil e i n m y right han d I was clenching th e candle. I had dreamt the siege of 1900! . . .