Jeep CJ '49'86 (Haynes Repair Manual)

JeepCJ Automotive Repair Manual by Larry Warren

and John H Haynes

Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered CJ-2A, CJ-3A, CJ-38, CJ-S, CJ-SA, CJ-6, CJ-7 Scrambler, Renegade , Laredo and Golden Eagle Automatic and manual transmissions

ISBN 1 56392 221 5

©

Haynes North America, Inc. 1996 Willi I*T'I'IIIOI'IIrom J H

~ ...

10 Co lid

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic: or mechanical, h:Iuding photocopying, IlKXlI'ding or by any information storage or retrieval system, -Mthout pemVssion in .....ntJng from the copyright holder.

Printed in the USA

i9Z2 - 50020) (412)

Haynes Publishing Group

Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc. BS1 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

97-70336

Acknowledgments Special thanks are due 10 American Motors Corporation for their supply of technical information BOO certain illustrations.

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the besl value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be dona, even If you choose to have it done by a dealer ser-

vice department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it oHers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. It Is hoped that you will use the manuel to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than ,manging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to lallve it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of sstisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after having done the job yourself.

Using the manual ' The msnual is divided into Chspters. Esch Chspter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontsllines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs.

The two types of illustrations used (figures and photographsl. sre referenCed by a number preceding their caption. Figure reference numbers denote Chapter and numerical sequence within the Chspter; U.e. Fig. 3.4 means Chapter 3, figure number 4). Figure csptions are followed by a Section number which ties the figure to a specific portion of the text. All photogrephs apply to the Chapter in which they appear and the reference number pinpOints the pertinent Section and paragraph; i.l.l., 3.2 means Section 3, paragraph 2 . Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated . When it is necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given ss Chapter and Section number i.e. Chapter 1/16). Cross references given without use of the word ' Chapter' apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, ' see Section B' means in the same Chapter. Reference to the left or right side of the vehicle is based on the assumption that one is sitting in the driver's seat. facing forward . Evan though extreme care has been taken during the preparation of this manual, neither the publisher nor the author can accept respon · sibility for any errors in, or omissions from. the information given.

Introduction to the Jeep CJ The Jeep CJ is available in an open utility body style with a folding windshield. Later models feature removable, folding tops or hsrdtops in both conventional and pick-up styles. Power from the engine is passed through the trsnsmission to a trsnsfar casa and then to tha front snd resr allies by driveshatts. Both msnual and sutomatic trsnsmissions ara available on these vehicles.

Esrly models used a csm snd lever type staering gear while later models featured a recirculating ball type steering gear with power assist as an option. Suspension is by semi-elliptic springs with tubular shock absorbers. Both four-wheel drum and front disC/rear drum brakes are used on these vehicles. with power assist as an option.

Contents

Page

Acknowledgements

0-2

About this manuel

0-2

Introduction to the Jeep CJ

0-2

General dimensions

0-6

Vehicle identification numbers

0-7

Buying perts

0-8

Maintenance techniques, tools end working facilities

0-9

Booster battery (jump) starting

0-15

Jacking end towing

0-15

Automotive chemicals and lubricants

0-16

Safety firstl

0-17

Troubleshooting

0-18

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-1

1

Chapter 2 Pert A General engine overhaul procedures

2A-l

2A

Chapter 2 Part B 151 cu in four-cylinder engine

26-'

28

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and aJi in-line six-cylinder engines

2C-1

2C

Chepter 2 Part 0 VB engine

20-1

20

va engine

2E-l

2E

2F-O

2F

Chapter 2 Part E

Chapter 2 Part F L-and F-head four-<: ytinder engines Chapter

3 Cooling, heating and air-conditioning systems

3-1

3

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-0

4

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5- 1

5

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

6-0

6

,

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission

7A-O

7A

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission

78-1

78

Chapter 7 Part C Transfer case

7C-0

7C

Chapter 8 Driveline

8-1

8

Chapte r 9 Brakes

9-0

9

Chapter 10 Chassis electrical system

10-0

10

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering systems

11-0

11

Chapter 12 Body

12-1

12

Conversion factors Index

INO

, I

1• •

t

0-5

0-6

General dimensions Overall length CJ2 CJ·3 CJ·5

130 in 130 in 139 in

CJ6 CJ-7 1975 through 1981 1982 8nd 1983

15910 148 In

153.2 in

Height CJ-2 CJ-J CJ-5

CJ. CJ·'

66io

66.4,n 68 in 68.4 in 691n

Width CJ-2 CJ·3 CJ-5

CJ-S CJ-7

591n

59 in 59.9 in 59.9 in

59.9 in

Wheelbase CJ-2 and CJ-3 CJ5

80 1n

1954 Ihrough 1972

81 In

1973 through 1983

84 ,n

CJ-6 1959 through 1912

1973 through 1976 CJ·7

101 in 104 in

93.5 in

0-7

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpubticized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists £Ire compiled on 8 numerical basis, the individu81 vehicle numbers are essential to identify Ihe component required.

Vehicle Identification Number (VIM This very important identification numbor is stamped on a plate which is located on the firewall under the hood. On later models the VIN is also attached to the dashboard ned to the windshield on the driver's sida.

JEEP CORP. TOLEDO. OH USA

o

[ 5.1 ... Otde, No.

o

I

Vehicle Idenl,IoClilon IVINI Number

Safety certification label Later models carry this stickar which certifies that federal safety standards ere met. The sticker is located directly below the door opening on the driver's side. The label carries the VIN, gross vehicle weight and {:Iross vehicle a)(le ratings.

Engine identification numbers Important information such as build codes, serial numbers and identification numbers can be found on the engines. On F- and l-head engines. the serial number is stamped on the boss just behind the water

o

SSA&ONo

t"",

I

OplOon No

I

Model No

,~.

Typical vehicla idantiticatlon plate

150 cu in four-cylinder and aU In-line slx-cylinder engine build date code location

F- and l-head engine serial number location

0-8

Vehicle ident ification numbers

rrVB engine build d ate code 10<:811on

pump. On the ve, the code number is located on the right front face o f the engine block, adjaeent to the rocker IIrm cover. The in-line sile cylinder engine build date code is stamped on the machined surface between the number two and three cylinders on the right side. The

va

engine build date code is Itemped on I plete affixed to thll Iront surface of the right valve cover. The 151 cubic inch lour-cylinder engine 10 code is found on the front of the engine block 01 timing cover. In addition, engines bUilt lor use in Georgia have an additional two-digit num~r enclosed by 8sterisks. On six·cylinder engines the number is belOW the build date code, on engines it Is on the left side 01 the block next to the core plug and on lour-cylinder engines it is on the left side of the Ilywheel housing.

va

Manual transmission identification number The transmission identification tag, which dIsplays the vendor part and Jeep part number, is generally found on a tag attached to the upper left side 01 the transmission cover or shilt control.

Automatic transmission serial number The automatic transmission serial number Is found on a tag at tached to the right .ide 01 the transmission case..

15' cu In l our-cylinder engine Id,ntilication code location

Emissions control information label Later modelS have an emIssions contrOl information label which is located in Iront of the rsdiator. ThIS label contains informallon on engIne applicatIOn and tune·up specifications.

Transfer case identification number An identification tag featuring the vendor and Jeep numbers necessary to obtain the proper spare parts is affixed to the t.ansfer case. On the Quadro -T.ac transfel case. the tag IS attached to the real half of the case. On eally model 18 and 20 transfer cases, the identification tag is fastened to the case. while on later model 20 and 300 cases it is held in place by the intermediate shaft lockplate bolt

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which general· 1'1 fall intO one 01 two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retaileuto perts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows : Aurhofized dea/af parts dapartlTlfln,; This is the best source fOI parts which are unique to your vehicle and not generally available elsewhere Ii,a. major engine parts, transmission parts. ttim pieces. etc.!. It is also the only place you should buy parts il your vehicle is still under warranty, as non-Iactory paru may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the corract part., have your vehicle's engine and chassis numbers available ancl. it possible, takl! tha old parts along for positive

Identllication.

RetlJi/auto parts stores; Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed componan ts which wear out relatively fast (i,a. clutch com· ponents, exhaust systems. brake parts. tune-up parts. etc. I. These stores often supply new Of reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can seve a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parIS stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance Ha oil, grease. filters, spark plugs, belts, touch· up paInt, bulbs. etc.l. They also usually sell tools and general ac· cessories, have convenient hOUfS, charge lower prices, and can often be found not far from '(Our home.

0-9

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques Thers afB II number of techniques involved in maintenance and repai r

Ih(ll will be refarred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organizad and capable of performing the veriaus tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough end complete.

Fasteners Fasteners arB nuts. bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either II lock washer, locknut, locking lab or thread adhesive. All thread· ed fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the he)( head where the wrench filS. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should bo troated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout·type oil can, which works Quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it "work" for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores.

If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and re o moved with a spacial tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other rapair procedures Isuch as repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out). Flat washers and lock washers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed . Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Always use a flat washer between a lock washer and any soft metal surface Isuch as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners . Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard Isometimes called U.S., English or SAEJ and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example. a standard 1/2 - 13)( 1 bolt is 1/2 inch In diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, ha5 a thread pitch of 1.75 mm Ithe distance between thre&dsJand is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable.

T

T_ II _ I

~I

G-

O

~ L

I

Standard ISAE ) bolt dimens!onl/grade markl G L T

o

Grade marks (bolt srrength) Length (in inchesl Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inchesl

p -

O

L~

~

Metric bolt dimenl ions/grade marks

P - Property class (bolt strength) L - Length (in millimetersl T Thread pitch (distance between threads: in millimeters) D - Nominal diameter (in miffimeters)

0 -10

Maintenance technique s, tools and working facilit ies

In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can ,Iso be distinguished bV eXi:lmining Ihe boh heads. To begin with, Ihe distance acroSlS the lIats on II standard bolt need is melsured in inches, while the same dimension on II metric boh is measured In millimeters (lha same is true lor nutsl. As a result , 8 standard wrench should not be used on II metric bolt and II metric wrench should not be used on a stand ard bol t. AIIO, standard bolts have slashes fadie!ing out from the center o f the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt Iwhieh is an indication ol lhe amount 01 torque the! can be applied to it). TI'Ie greater the number of slashes, the grellter the ,!rength 01 the bolt tgrades 0 through 5 are commonlv used on automobile.). Melric boilS have a property class Igrade) number, ralhar Ihan a sla5h, molded inl o their heads to indicate bolt strang th. In Ihie case, the higher the numbar, Ihe stronger the bolt (propertv cle .. numbers 8 .8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonlv used on automobiles).

Grade 1 or 2

Gr ade

5

Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from meuic hex nuts. Standard nuts halle dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number 01 dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength 01 the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property ciass Igrade). Larger .tuds are numberad (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric co de to denote grade. It should be noted that many lasteners, especiallV Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such Is the case. the onlv way to determine whether It is sUlndard or metric hi to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener 01 the same size. Slncelasteners 01 the same size lboth standard and metricl may have dillerent strengl h ralings. be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from you r vehicle in their orlglnol locations. Also, when replacing a lastener wit h a new one, make sure Ihat the new one has a strenglh rating equal to or greater than tha original.

Grade 8

80lt strength markings (top -standar d/S AE , bottom - meltlc)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Tightenmg sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tighteoed to e specific torque value (torque is basically a twisting force l. Over-tightening the fasteoer can weaken it and cause it to break. while under-tightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters. have specific torque values tmany of which are noted In the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapterl. Be sure to follow the torque recommen dations closely. For fasteners not assigned a apecific torque. a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. As waa previously mentioned. the slza and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it . The figures listed here are ep· proximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners (htgher grades can tolerllte higher torque values). FaSteners la,d out In a pattern 11.8. cyhoder head bolts, oil pan bolts. dillerential cove. bolts. etc.) must be loosened or tightened In a se quence to aVOid warping the component. This sequence Will normally be shown In the appropriate Chapter. II a specifiC pallern is not given, the follOWing procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially. the bolts or nuts should be assembled fingeHlght only. Next. they should be tightened one full turn each. In a crlss·cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn. return to the first ona and tlghten them all one-half turn. following the same pattern. Finally. tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to tile proper torque. 10 loosen and remove the fasteners. the plocedule would be leversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care aod purpose to Ilelp ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed . Make note of speCial characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way (such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft!. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface In the order that they were removed . It may also be halpful 10 make sketches or take instanl photos of components before removal . When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back In a part. or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, cao prevent mix-ups later. " nuts and bolts caonot be ,elumed to Iheir original locations. they should be kept in a compartmented box 0' a series of small boxes. A cupcake or mullin tin IS Ideal for thiS purpose. since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a parllcular area li.e. oil pan bolts. valve cover boits. engine mount boilS. etc.l. A pan of this type is especially helpful when work· ing on assemblies with very small parts. such as the carburetor. alter·

Metric thread sizes M·6 M·8

M·l0 .. M-12 M-14

Pipe thread sizes 1/8 1/' 318

... .. -.

1/2

U.s.

0-11

oator. valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavllJea can be marked With paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looml, harnesses or connectors are separatfld. it's a good idea to identify the tw<> halves wtth numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily raconnected .

Gaske t sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle. gaskets are used to seal the mallng sur faces between two parts and keep lubricants. fluids. vacuum or pressure contained in an aSlembly. Many times these gaskets ara coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to Slick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separale. Ollen. the assembly can be looseo&d by striking il with a soft-fec::ad hammer ne&l" the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hem· mar and the part. 00 not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be eaSily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed . Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly. as they can eesily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts (which must remain smooth). If prying Is absolutely necessary. use an old broom handle. but keep in mind that exIra clean -up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After Ihe parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces claaned. Stubborn gasket mIIteriai can be soaked with rust peoe"ant or t,eated with a special chamical 10 501Ien it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be lashjooed from a piece of copper tubing by lIatteoing and sharpening one end Copper is recommended because it ia usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped. which rflduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface il gouged. then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be usad during reassembly of the com· ponents. For most applications. a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal tips Caution: If rhf! "'flhiclfl is f/(juipped With ai' condirioning, do not disconnect any of the AIC hoses without first MVing tlHIsystem depMS$unzed by a deale, service department 0' an ai, conditioning specilllist. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precau tions. Avoid scratching or gouging the lurface that the hosa mates against or the connection may leak. This Is especially Irue for radiator

Ft-Ib 6 to 9 14 to 21 28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

Nm 9 to 12 19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

5 to B 12 to 18 22 to 33 25 to 35

7 to 10 17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

6 to 9 12 10 18 14 to 20 22 to 32 27 to 38 40 to 55 4010 60 55 10 80

9 to 12 11 to 24 19 to 27 30 to 43 37 to 51 55 to 74 55 to 81 75 to 108

thread sizes

1/4 - 20 5 /16 - 18

5116 3.8 318 7f16 7/16 112 -

24 16 24 14 20. 13

. . . .. . ... -

.. ..

0-12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

hosel. Because of various chemical reactlont, the rubber in hoses cln bond itself to the meliispigot that Ihe hose fiu over. To remove a hosa, lirst loosen the hal. clamps that securei! to Ihe spigot. Then, with .Iip-joint pilafs, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it i. completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or alh" lubricants will esse removel if they cen be applied between the hos8 and the outside of tha spigot. Apply the ume lubllcant to the Inlide of the hose and the Qutslde of the spigot to simplify installation. As 8 18st resort land If the hose is to be replaced with. new one anyway). the rubber clln be slit with II knife end the hOle peeled from the spigot. If thla must be done, be careful that the metal connection Is not damaged. If e hose clamp ia broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire·type ciampa usually weaken with aga, so it ia a good idea to replace them with screw·type ciampa whenever a hose ia removed.

penSIve, ale Invaluable because 01 their versatility (especially when various eKtensionland drives are available). We recommend the 112·inch drive ovel the 3lS·lnch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive. It has the capacity of ecceptlng a very wide range of large sockets Udeally, the mechanic would have a 3lS'lnch dflve set and a 1 /2~inch drive sell. Socket set(sl Reversible mtchet Extension - '0 in UniV'8rsal joim Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hemmer - B oz Soft·faced hemmer (plestic/rubber) Standard scnwdriver (1/4 in x 6 in) Stendard scnwdriver (stubby - 5/16 in) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x B m) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) Pfief$ - vise grip Plief$ - linemen's Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snep·ring (internal and elCternalJ Cold chisel - 1/2 in Scriber Semper (made from flattened copper tubmg) Center purwh Pin punches (1116. 'IB, 3/16 in)' Steel ru/e/$'fflightadge - 12 in Allen wrench set (11B to 31B in or 4 mm to 10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second ser) Jack (scissor or hydfflu/ic type)

Tools A selection of good 1001. i. I basic requirement for anyone who plans to malnlain and repair his or her own vehicle. For Ihe owner who has few lools, if any, the Initlallnveslment might seem high, but when com· pered to the spil1lllng coati of professional auto mainteneoce and repelr, it i. a wise one. To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tesks delailed in this manuel, the following toolli.l. are offered: M~ntenilflce and minor repair, Re".ir and Oll8rfuJul and SpM:iel. The newcomer to praclical mechanica .hould .tart off wilh the Malnttmance lind minor repllir 100/ kit, which I, adequale for the almpler joba performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence end experience grow, the owner can tickle more difficult tasks, buying edditionalloolsls they ere needed . Eventually the basic kit will be expanded Inlo Ihe Repair snd oll8rheul tool set. Over a period of lime, the experienced do·it·yourselfer will aHambie a tool Ht complell enough for most repair and ovlrhaul procedures and will add toola from tha Sp«ial cltegory when it i. felt that the expense la justified by the frequency 01 use.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit Tha tools in this liat should be considered the minimum required for performance 01 routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommand the purchase of combinetlon wrenchas lbox·end and open·end combined In ani wrenchl; while marl expensive than open· ended ones, they offer the advantages 01 both types of wrench . Combination wrench set fI/4 in 10 , in or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench - B in Spark plug wrench (with rubber insertl Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Braka bleedsr wrenCh Standard screwdriver (5/16 in x 6 in) Phillips sCfflwdriver (No. 2 x 6 in) Combination pliaf$ - 6 m Hacksaw and assortf1lflnt of blades Tire pressure gsuge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Battsry post and cable clesning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium SIZS) Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Dram pan Not.: If basic tune·ups ere going to be part of routine malmenence, it will ba necessery to purchese a good qUlllity stroboscopic timing light and combination IllchometerA:JweJl meter. Although they are included m the list of Speclel tools, it is f1IfIntioflild hare because they lire ab· solutely necessary for tuning most V'8hicles prop.,ly.

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools ere essential for anvene who plans to perform mejor repairs and are in addition to those in the Maintemmce and minor re".ir tool kit . Included is 8 comprehensive set of lockets which. though ex·

Note: Another tool which is often useful IS an electr;c dull motor (With chuck cllpeclty of 3/B·inchj and a set of good·quallty drill bits.

II

Special tools The tools in thililit Include those whIch are not used regularly. are expensive to buy, or'which need to be used in accordance WIth their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequent · Iy, it is not very economical to purchase many 01 them. A conSldera· tion would be to .plit the cost and use between yoU/self and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary baSIS. This list primarily contains only those lools and instruments WIdely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehi· cle manufacturer for distribution to deeler service departments. Occa· sionally, references to the manufacturer's special tools are Included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of dOing the job without the special tool is offered. However. sometimes Ihere is no elternative 10 their use. Where Ihil is Ihe case. and the 1001 cannot be purchased at borrowed, the work should be lurned ave. to the dealer service depanment or an automotive repair shop. Valve sprmg compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring ins tallation tool Cylinder compnssion gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylmder bore gauge Micrometer(S}lmdkJr diel calipers Hydraulic lifte, removal tool Balljoint seperator Universal·type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing ligh t (inductillfl ptek·up) Hand·operated vacuum/prtlssure pump Tachomete,/rlwelf meter Universal elactrical multif1lflter Csble hoist Brake spring removal lind instl/illation tools Floor IBCk

0-13

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Piston ring groove cleening tool

Piston ring compre..or

Valve spring compreuor

Piston ring removal /installation tool

Cylinder ridge reamer

Telescoplng gauge set

Micrometer set

Cylinder surfacing hone

Dlel caliper

.;-......~~~ ,. , r:Universal-type puUer

Dial Indicator set

Hand-operlted vacuum pump

0-14

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Buying tools For the do-It-yourselfer who is jull starting to get Involved in lIohicle maintenance and repair. there are a number of option. available when purchaSing tool •• II maintenance and minor repslr i, the 8ICtani 01 the work to be done. the PUrches8 of individual tool. I, latislactory. If, on Ihe other hand, extensive work I. planned, it would be 8 good idea to purchase 8 modest 1001 set from one of the larva retail chain stores. A set can usuallv be bought 81 8 substantialssving. over I ha individual tool prices (and thev often come with 8 tool bo:.c). As additional tools are needed, add-on sets. individual tools and II larger tool boll can be purchased to expand the 1001 selection. Building a tool set gradually allows Ihe COli of Ihe lools 10 be spreed over e longer period of lime and gives Ihe mechanIc tha freedom 10 choose only Ihose tools thar will aCluslly be used. Tool stores witt often be the only source of some of I he specisl tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought. Iry to avoid cheap ones lespec~"y when buying screwdrivelll and sockels) because lhey won'llast verv loog. The expense involved;n replacing cheap tools WiU eventually be grealer than the initial CO&l of quality tools.

Care and main tenance of tools Good tools are expensive. so it makes sense to treat them with respect, Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them property when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before pUlting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion 01 a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there (so they don't get lost during e test drivel. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers. wrenches end sockets. can be hung on • panel mounted on the garege or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments. gauges. melers. etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weether or impact from other toola. When tools are used with care and stored properly. they Will last a

verv long time. Even With the best of care. tools will wear out If used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out. replace It; subsequent jobs Will be safer and more enjoyable il you do. Workjng facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than rouline maintenance is to be carried out. some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated. that many home mechaniCS do not have a good workshop or garage available and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outSide. It Is recommended. however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean. flat workbench or table of comlortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped With a vise that hal a jaw opening of at least four inches. AI mantiOfled previously, some cleen, dry Siorage space is also required for lools. as wella5 the lubricants. lIuids. cleaning salven". etc. which soon become necessarv. Sometimes waste Oil and flUIds. dreined from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, simply pour the used fluids Into large containers. seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal sile or recycling cenler. PlaSlic jugs Isuch as old antifreeze contalnersl are ideal for thiS purpose. Alwaya keep a supply 01 old newspapers and clean raga avsilable. Old towels are excellent lor mopping up spills. Many mechaniCS use rolls o f paper l ow els lor most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop lloor. Whenever working over a painted surface Isoch as when leaning over a lender to service something under the hood I. always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread 10 protectlhe linlsh. Vinyl covered pads. made especially for this purpose. are avaIlable al auto oarts stores.

•

0-15

Booster battery (jump) starting Certain precautions must be obserlled when using a booster battery to jump start a vehicle. a) BeforB connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition switch is in the Off position.

b) Turn off the lights, heater lind other IIlectrical loads. c) The ayes should be shielded. Safety goggles are II good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle.

el The two vehicles must not louch each other. I) Make sure the tranSllxle is in Neutral (manual transaxle) or Park (automatic transell),,). g) If the booster battery is not II maintenance-free lyp6. remove the vent caps and lay II cloth over the vent holes.

Connect the fed jumper cable to the positive (+ I terminals of each bonary. Connect one end of the black. jumper cable to the negarive 1-) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to e good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or brack.et on the engine block.. Use caution to insure that the cable will not come into contact with the ten, drivebelts or other moving pans of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running et idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

Make tha boo.ter banery cable connec:tlona In the numerical order shown Inote that the negative cable of the booater banery i. not attached to the negative tarmln.al of the daad battery)

Jacking and towing Jacking Two types of jack.s are used: a screw-type on ear1ier models and a scissors-type on later models. On ear1ier models the jack is located in a compartment under the passenger seat and on later models in the engine compartment below the battery or next to the driver's seat. The jack. should be used only for raising the vehicle for the purpose of changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame . Cau· tlon: Never, under any circumsta,nces, perfonn worlc under the vehicle or start the engine while the jack is being used as the only means of w~.

The vehicle should be on level ground with the wheels blocked and the transmission in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manua~. Pry off the wheel cover (if so equipped) using the tapered end of the lug wrench. loosen the lug nuts one-half tum and leave them in place until the wheel is raised off the ground.

The jack should be placed under the spr1ng pivot

From the side of the vehicle, place the jack under either front or rear spring hanger, depending on the wheel to be lifted. Raise the vehicle with the jack, remove the lug nuts, pull off the wheel and replace it with the spare. With the beveled side in, replace the lug nuts and tighten them until snug. lower the vehicle, remove the jack and tighten the nuts in a crisscross pattern. Replace the wheel cover by placing it in position and using the heel of your hand or a rubber mallet to seat it.

Towing These vehicles can be towed at freeway speeds with all lour wheels on the ground and the ignition key in the Off position (if equipped with locking column) by using the following procedures. Manual transmission Shift the transmission and transfer case into Neutral on models built through 1979. On 1980 and later models, the transmission shOuld be placed in gear and the transfer case in Neutral. If equipped with locking hubs, they should be in the free-wheeling position on models built through 1976 and locked (to ensure axle lubrication) on 1977 and later models. On 1980 and later models, it wilt be necessary to stop every 200 miles, start the engine and run it for one minute with the transmission in gear and the transfer case in Neutral to circulate the transfer case oil. Automatic transmission On models equipped with Cuadra-Trac and an automatic transmissioo, but without the low range reduction unit, the vehicle can be towed with the transmission in Neutral and the front and fear driveshafts removed (Chapter 8). If equipped with the reduction unit, shift the transmission into Park and shift the reduction unit into Neutral. The Emergency Drive control located In the glovebox must be in the Normal position. If the engine was shut off with this control in the Emergency Drive position, restart It and rum the knob to Normal before towing the vehicle. On 1980 and later models, shift the transmission Into Park and the transfer case into Neutral. Stop every 200 miles, start the engine and run it for approximately one minute with the transmission in Park and the transfer case in Neutral to circulate the transfer case oil.

0-16

Automotive chemicals and lubricants• A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available fOf use during whlcls maintenance end repair. They include 8 wide variety of products fanglng trom cleaning solvents end degreasera to lubricants and protective spreys for rubber, plastic and vinyl. Contllct pointnpsrlc plug cleaner is II solvenl used to clean oily film end dirt from points, grime from electrical connectors and oil deposits from spark plugs. It i, oil fra. and leavel no residue. It can also be used to remove gum and V8foish from carburetor jets and other orifices. Carburetor cleaner is similar to contact point/tperk plug cleaner but it I, a.tronQ9r solvent end may leave 8 slight oily residue. It IlllOt recommer'lded for cleaning electrical components or connections. 8ftJke system clsaner I, used to remove grelse or brlke fluid from brake system components where clean .urlace. are absolutely necelSary and petroleum-based solvents cannot be used_ It al.o leeves no rl.idue. Silicone-lulsed lubricants Ire used to prollct rubber parts such as hOMS, weatherstripping and grommets, and Ire used IS lubricants fOf hingas Ind locks. Mulri-purpose grease I. In III-purpose lubricant used wherever grease I, more practical than a liquid lubricant such as oil. Some multi·purpose grease i, white and specially lormulated to be more resistant to water than ordinary grease. Baaring graase/wMM baafing graase Is I heavy grease used whare increased loads and friction are encountered liAL wheel bea~s, univer· sal joints, etc.t. High-temperature whfHI/ baaring grease Is designed to withstlnd the alltreme temperature. encountered by wheel bearings in disc-braka equipped vehicles. It usuelly conteins molybdenum disulfide, which Is e 'dry' type lubricant. Gaar 017 Isometimes callad geer lubel Is a apeclally designed oil uaed in dlfferentiels, manual transmissions and trlnsler cales, as well as other areas where hlgh·friction, hlgh·temperature lubrication is re quired . It il available in a number of viscosities (weights) for various applications. Motor oil, of course, is the lubrinnt specially lormulated lor use in engines. It nonmllily contain. a wide variety 01 edditives to prlMlnt cor· rosion and reduca foaming and weer. Motor o~ come. in various .....Ight. (viscosity ratings) of from 5 10 80. The recommended weighl 01 the 011 depends on the lelsonal temperature Ind the demlnds on the engine. Light oil is used In cold climatal and undar light load conditions; heavy oil II uled In hot climates Ind where high loads Ire encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed 10 h ..... characteristic. 01 both light and heavy oils and ale available in a number 01 _ights Irom 5W-20 to 20W-50. Oi/additives range from viscosity inda)( Improvers to slick chemical treatmants that purportedly reduce friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers Clution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perfonn SlMlraliunctions, dapending on t heir chemical

makeup. They usually contain solvents thai help dissolve gum Ind var· nish thlt build up on carburetor and intaka parts. They also serve to break down carbon daposits that form on the inside surfaces 01 the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricanlS lor valves and piston rings. Bnke fluid is a .pecielly formulated hydraulic lIuid that cen With stand the heat and pressure encountered in breke systems. Cafe must be taken that this Iluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should alway' be resealed 10 prevent contamination by watar or dirt. Undercoating is a petroleum· based, tar· like substance IhaliS designed to prolect metal surlaees on the underside 01 a vehicle from corrosion. It also acts" a .ound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle.. 'Weatherstrip cement is used to bond ..... atherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids_ It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces as we'l. {)egreastmi are ha8Y'y-duty so ....ents used to remove grease and gnme Ihat may eccumulate on engine and chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, ere rinsed off with either water or solvent. Solvents ere used atone or in combination with degreasers to clean parts and "sembli.. during repair and O\Ierhaul. The home mechenic should use only solvents that are non-flammable and that do not produce irritating fumes. Gasket suling compounds may ba used in conJUnction WIth gaskets, to improve their sealing capabilities, or alona, 10 seal metal·to -metal joints. Many gaskat sealers can withstand alltreme heat. soma are impervious to gasolina and lubricants, whila others are capable of filling and sealing large c8Y'ltles. Depending on the intended use. gasket sealers either dry hard or stay ralelively soft and pliable. They are usually applied by hand, with a brush, or are sprayed on the gasket seahng surfaces. Thread cement IS In adhesive locking COf'l'lPOUnd that prevents Ihreaded fastenars ftom loosening because of vibrat ion. It is available in a variety of types for differant applications. Moisture dispersants are usually sprays that can be usad to dry oul electrical componants such es the distributor. fuse block and wiring connectors. Some types can also be u'sed as treatment forrubbar and as e lubricant for hinges, cables and locks. W.JC8S and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated sur· faces from the weather. Different types 01 paint may require the use of differant types 01 wall polish. Some polishes ulili~e a chemIcal or abresive cleaner to halp remova the top laye' of oKldized (dulll palMt on oider vehicles. In recent years many f'IOn ·wax polishes that contalM e wide variety 01 chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non'well polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer Ihan conventional walles and polishes.

0-17

Safety first! Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your solely is not jeopardi~ed. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident; so can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always 8)(ist. end the following points should not be considered II comprehensive list of all dangers; rather, they are intended to mak.e you aware of the risks end to encourage II safety-conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON'Ts DON ' T filly on II jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON 'T anempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners H.e. wheel lug nuts! while the vahicle is on a jack; it may fall. DON' T start tha engine without first making sure tha t the transmission is in Nautral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set, DON' T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooting system - let it cool or cover it with a cloth and relaase tha pressure gradually. DON' T attempt to drain the engina oil until you are sure it has coolad to tha poin t that it will not burn you. DON'T touch any part of tha anglne or axhaust system until it has cooled down sufficiently to avoid burns. ~ON 'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline. antlfraeza and braka fluid by mouth, or allow tham to remain on your skin. DON' T inhale brake lining dust - it is potentially hazardous. DON 'T allow spilled oil or graase to ramain on the floor - wipe it up before somaone slips on it. DON 'T use loose-fitting wrenc~es or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON 'T push on wrenchas when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls l or pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip. ~ON ' T attempt to lift a heavy component alone - get someone to help you. DON' T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON' T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO waar eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. 00 keep loose clothing and long hair welt out of the way of moving parts. 00 make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle. 00 carry out work in a logical sequenca and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets. 00 remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Fire Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short cir-

cuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. 00 not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning pans; use an approved se fety solvent. Always disconnect tha battery ground (-! cable before working on any part of the fuel systam or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot anglne or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended thet a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or wo rkshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire wit h water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause un· consciousness and even death if inhalad to any extent. Gasoline vapor faUs into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile ftuids should ba done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fl uids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Naver use materials from unmarked containers. Nevar run tha engine in an enclosed space such as II garage; exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or It Ilast have the rea r of the vehicle outside t he work erel. tf you are fortunate enough to have the usa of an Inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit; the lumes, being heavier thin air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Naver create a sperk or allow a bare light bulb near the vehicle's bat · tery. It will normally be giving off a cenain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (-I cable before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the finer caps or cover when charging the bit· tery from an externat source, Do not charge at en excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding wate r and when carrying a battery. Theelectrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power tOOl, inspection light, etc., which oparates on household current, always make sure that the tool II correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it Is properly grounded, Do not use Buch items in damp conditions and, Igain, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

Secondary ignition system voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching canain Plrts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wiresl when the engine Is running or being cranked, plnicularly if components are dlmp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

0-18

Troubleshooting Contents

Applicable Section

Symptom

Engine mechanical Engine beckfires . • . . • • . .

. •.....•.••..

Engine 'diesels' [cootinues to runl aher ,wilehlng off

13 15 4

Engine herd to start when cold ....... .

Engine hard to start when hot .......... . .... . laeks power. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . ..... . lopes white idling or [diu erratically .......•. misses at idle speed .•......•.••.•.•. missal throughout driving speed ,ange ..... .... . . Engine rotate. but will not start .. . . . . . . . . •..... Engine stall • ...... ...... . . ..•.. .... •....•..••.... Engine ,tart. but SlOpS immediately . . . . . . . . ....... . Engine will not rotate when 'Hemptiog to start ...... . Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or uphill •.•..•.•...•....•.•. Statter motor noisy or excasslvely rough in engagement Statter motor operates without roteting engine

Engine Engine Engine Engine

5

'2 8

•

'0

2

", 7

14

• 3

Engine electrical Battery will not hold a charge . . . • . . . .•.•.•. .•.. . . Charge light fails to come on whan key is turned on . . • . • .. Charge light fails to go out .. .. .. .. .. .•. .•.•. .. . • . •..

,6 18 17

Fuel system Excessive fuel consumption ..• •• • ..•..• • ••• • • • • • Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor ••.••.••• ••••........•

19 20

Cooling system External coolant laakage . . . • . • . . . . • . . . . • . • . . . . • . . . .. Intarnal coolant laakage . •••.••.. . • . . . . • . • . • • . • . . . .• Qvercooling •• •....•.•.•.• • •.••.•.. • .••.• • .•. Overheating . • . • • . • . • • • • • • • • • . . . . • . . • • . . . • . . • .. • Poor coolant circulation .• .. ...... . ...•.•.•... Coolant loss . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • • . . . . . . . • . . . . . • • .

23 24 22 21 26 25

Clutch Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle speed! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • . • . . . Clutch pedal stays on floor when disengaged •.••.•.•.•• Feils to release (p edal prassed to the floor - .hift lever does not move Ireely in and out of Reverse) . • • • . • . . Grabbing (chattaring) as clutch Is engaged ••.••• . .. . Squeal or rumble with clutch fully disengaged (pedal depressed) . •• . . . . . . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . Squeal or rumble with clutch lully engaged (padal released! ..

28 32

.•.•.•.. •. .•. .. . running . .•.... .... .. . .. . .. .

•.••.•. . . ... . ...... . . .. ..•. . . .. .•.••.. .

31 30 37 34 33 35 38 36

Automatic transmission Engine will Itan in gears other than Park or Neutral . . . . Fluid leakaga .•. . . . . . . . . . . • . . . . . . . . • . . . General shilt mechanism probleml .. . .. .. .. . Transmission slips, shifts rough, il noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears .•••••..•....•.••.•.•••• Transmission w ill not downlhjft with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor . • • • • • • . • . . . . . . . . . • . • .

42 39 40 43 41

Transfer case Lubricant leakl from th e vent or output shaft seals

Applicable Section

Noisy Of jumps out of 4 ·wheel drive UlW range .•... Rasping, pulsaling noise. particularly at low speeds (Quadra -Trac! ..•. Transfer case difficult to shill into Ihe deSired range Transfer case noisy in all gears

46 47 44 45

Driveshaft Knock or clunk when the transmission is under initial load Hust after transmission is put into gear) . .......•.••.. leakage of fluid at front of drivesha!t . . . •• • • Metallic grating sound consistent With vehicle speed . . Vibration .•...... .•.. . ....•.•..

50 49 51 52

Axles Noise (same when in drive as when vehicle is coasting) . Oil leakage . . Vibration

53 55 54

Brakes Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed .. Brake pedal pulsates during brake application Excessive brake pedal travel . . ..•..... . . . Excessive effort required to atop vehic le •. Noise (high -pitched squeal without brake applied) Pedal travels to floor With little resistance Vehicle pu"' to one side during braking .

59 62

5'

60 57 6' 56

Suspension and ~teering Vehicle pull s to one side ..•.. .... .. Excessive pitching and /or rolling around corners or during braking . .. ..•. . . Excessive play in steering Excessive tire wear (not lpecilic to one areal Excessive tire wear on inside edge Excessive tire wear on outsida edge Excessively stiff steering ... Lack of power assistance. . Shimmy. shske or vibration Tire tread worn in one place

63 65 67

6. 71

70 66

•• 64

72

27 29

Manual transmission Difficulty in engaging gears . Noisy in all gears . . . . • • • • Noisy in Neutral with engine Noisy in one particular gear Oil leakage . . • . . . . . . . . . . Slips out of high gear . . . . .

Symptom

46

This section provides an easy-reference guide to the more common problems which may occur during the operation 01 your vahlCle. These problams and possible causes are grouped under vanous components or systems1.e. Engine. Cooling system. elc.. and also reler to the Olaptef and/or Section which deals with the problem. Remember that success lui troubleshooting is not a mysterious 'black art' practicll'd only by professional mechanics. it's simply the reSult of a bit 01 knowledge combined with an intelligent. systematic approach to the problem. Always work by a process of elimination. staning with Ihe simplest solution and worlting through 10 the most complex - and nevar overlook Ihe obvious. Anyone can forgello fill Iha gas tank or leave Iha lights on overnight. so don't assume Ihat you ara above such oversights. Finally, always get clear In your mind why a problem has occurred and lake steps to ensure that it doesn't happen again. If the electrical system fails because 01. poor connection. check all other connections in Ihe system to make lure that they don't fait as well; if a particular fuse continues to blow. find oul why - don' t just go on replecing fuses. Remember, failura of a small component can often ba Indica live of potantial failure or incorreCI functioning 0 1 a more important compo nent or system.

Troubleshooting

0-19

Engine mechanical Engine will not rotete when Ittemptlng to start Battery term inal connections loose or corroded. Check the cable term inals at the battery; tighten the cable or remove corrosion as necessary. 2 Battery discharged or faulty. If the cable connections are clean and tight on the battery posts, turn the key to the On position and switch on the headlights and lor windshield wipers. If they fail to function, the battery is discharged. 3 Automatic transmission not fully engaged in Park. 4 Broken. loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit. Inspect all w iring and connectors at the battery, starter solenoid and ignition switch. 5 Startar motor pinion jammed on flywheel ring gear. If manual transmission, place in gear and rock the vehicle to manually turn the engine. Remove starter (Chapter 5) and inspect pinion and flywheel at earliest convenience. 6 Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5). 7 Starter motor faulty (Chapter 5). B Ignition switch faulty (Chapter 10).

2

Engine rotatel but will not stlrt

1 Fuel tank empty. 2 Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly). Check the operation of electrical components as described in previous Section IChapter 5). 3 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. See previous Section. 4 Carburetor flooded andlor fuel level in carburetor incorrect. This will usually be accompanied by e strong fuel odor from under the hood. Wait a few minutes, depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floo r and attempt to start the engine. 5 Choke control inoperative (Chapter 4). 6 Fuel not reaching carburetor. With ignition switch in Off position, open hood, remove the top plate of air cleaner assembly and observe the top of the carburetor (manually move choke plate back if necessary). Have an assistant depress accelerator pedal fully and check that fuel spurts into carburetor. If not, check fuel filter (Chapter 11. fuel lines and fuel pump (Chapter 4). 7 Excessive moisture on. or damage to. ignition components (Chapter 5). B Worn, faulty or incorrectly Adjusted breaker points or spark plugs (Chapter 1). 9 Broken, toose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (lee previous Section). 10 Distributor loosa (which changes ignition timing). Turn the distributor as necessary to start the engine, then set ignition timing as soon as possible (Chapter 1). 11 Ignition condenser faulty (Chapter 1). 12 Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the Ignition coil or distributor or faulty coil (Chapter 5).

5

Engine hard to Itart wh en hot

1 2 3 4

Choke sticking in the closed position (Chapter 1). Carburetor flooded {see Section2). Ai r filter clogged (Chapter 1). Fue!' not reaching the carburetor (see Section 41.

e

Sta"er motor nollY or excelilvaly rough In engagement

Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken. Aemove the inspec ' tion cover at the rear 01 the engine [if so equipped) and Inspect. 2 Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing.

7

Loose or faulty electrical connections at distributor, coil or alternator. 2 Insufficient fuel reaching the carburetor. Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and remove the filter (Chapter I ). Place a container under the disconnected fuel line. Observe the flow of fuel from the line. If little Of none at all, check for blockage in the lines and lor replace the fuel pump (Chapter 4). 3 Vacuum leak at the gasket surfaces of the Inteke manifold and/or carburetor. Check that all mounting bolts (nuts) are tightened secu rely and that all vacuum hoses conencted to the carburetor and manifold are positioned properly and in good condition. 4 Faulty ignition ballast resistor (Chaptet 5 ).

8

Stllrter motor operates without rotllting anglne

1 Starter pinion sticking. Remove the starter (Chapter 5) and inspect. 2 Starter pinion or engine flywheel teeth worn or broken. Remove the inspection cover at the rear of the engine (if so equippedl and inspect.

4

Englnl hard to stllrt when cold

1 2 3 4 5

Battery discharged or low. Check as described in Section 1. Choke control inoperative or out of adjustment (Chapter 1). Carburetor flooded (sae Section 2). Fuel supply not reaching the carburetor (see Section 4). Carburetor worn and in need of repair [Chapter 41.

Engine lopes while Idling or Idlel errlllically Vacuum leakage. Check mounting bolts Inutsl at the carburet or

and intake manifold for tightness. Check that all vacuum hoses are con-

nected and in good condition. Use a doctor's stethoscope or a length of fuel hosa held against your eer to listen for \lacuum leaks while the engine is running. A hissing sound will be heard. A soapy water solu· tion will also detect leaks. Check the carburetor and intake manifold gasket surfaces. 2 leaking EGA valve or plugged PCV valve (see Chapter 6 ). 3 Air cleaner clogged and in need of replacement (Chapter 1). 4 Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel to the carburetor [ see Section 7). 5 Carburetor out of adjustment (Chapter 4). 6 leaking head gasket. If this is suspected, take the vehicle to a repair shop or dealer where it can be pressure checked without the need to remove the head!s). 7 Timing chain and /or gears worn (Chapter 2). B Camshaft lobes worn, necessitating the removal of the cam shaft for inspection (Chepter 2).

9

3

Engine starta but Itopa Immediately

Engine ml"el at Idle Ipeed

I Spark plugs faulty or not gapped properly (Chapter 1). 2 Faulty spark plug wires [Chapter I). 3 Carburetor choke not operating properly (Chapter I I. 4 Sticking or faulty emissions system components [Chapter 6). 5 Clogged fuel filter and/or foreign matter in fuel. Remove the fuel filter {Chapter I I and inspect . 6 Vacuum leeks at carburetor, intake manifold or at hose connec· tions. Check as described in Section 8. 7 Incorrect idle speed or Idle mixture (Chapter 1). 8 Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 11. 9 Uneven or low cylinder compression. Check compression as described in Chapter 1.

10

Engine ml ..es throughout drlvlng speed range Fuel filter clogged and/or imputities in the fuel system (Chap -

0-20

Troubleshooting

ler 11. Also check fual output 8t the carburetor (see Section 7). 2 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plug. (Ch8pler 1). 3 Incorrect ignItion liming {Chapter H. 4 Check for cricked distributor cap, disconnected distributor wires or damage to the ignition system componentl (Chapter 5L 5 Leaking spark plug wires (Chapter 11. 6 FaullV emission. -VItam components (Chapter 6). 7 lDw or uneven cylindlSf compression pressures. Check 8S descnbed in Chapter 1. 8 Fauhy breaker pOints or condenser (Chapter H. 9 Vacuum leaks at carburetor, intake manifold or vacuum hoses (see Section 8).

15

Engine 'dlaHI,' (conllnues to fun) eftaf switching off

1

Idle speed 100 high (Chapter 11. Electrical solenoid at side of carburetor not functioning properly Inol all models, see Chapter 4). 3 Ignition timing incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 11. 4 Air cleaner heat valve not operating properly (Chapter 1). 5 E;IIcesslve engine operating temperature. Probable causes 01 this are malfunctioning thermostat, clogged radiator, faulty water pump (Chapter 3).

2

Engine electrical "

Engine staH,

1 Carburetor idle speed incorrectly set (Chapter 11. 2 Fuel filter clogged endlor water and impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 11. 3 Choke improperly adjusted or sticking (Chapler 11. 4 Distribulor COmpooeols damp. poinll OUI of adjuslmenl or damage 10 dlslribulor cap. rOlor etc. (Chapter 5). 5 Fauhy emissions lYstem components IChapter 61. 6 Fauhy or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. Also check spark plug wires IChapter 11. 7 Vacuum leak at the carburetor, intake manifold or vacuum hoses. Check as described in Section 8. 6 Valve clearance incorr&etly set IChaptsr 11.

16 Blttlry will not hold a charge 1 2 3

4 5 6 7

17 1

2

lB

1 2

Incorrect ignition timing IChapter 11. Exxcessive play in distributor shalt. At the same time. check lor worn or out-of-adjustment points, faulty distributor cap, wires, etc. ,Chapter 11. 3 Faulty or incorreclly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 4 Carburetor not adjusted properly or exceSllvely worn (Chapler 4). 5 Weak condenser (Chapter 51. 6 Faulty coil (Chapter 51. 7 Srakes binding (Chapter 11. 8 Automatic transmission lIuid level incorre ct, causing slippage (Chapter 11. 9 Manual IransmlSSlon clutch slipping IChapter 8). 10 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1). 11 Emissions control system not lunctlonlng properly ,Chapter 6). 12 Use of sub-standard fuel . Fill tank with proper octane fuel. 13 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Check as described in Chapter 1.

1 Emission system not functioning properly (Chapter 61. 2 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 11. 3 Carburetor in need of adjustment or worn e;llcessively (Chapter 4). 4 Vacuum leak 81 carburetor, intake manifold or vacuum hoses Check as described in Section B. 5 Valve clearance Incorrectly set, andior valves Slicking (Chapter 11.

14

Pinging or knocking englna sounds during acceleration or uphill

1 Incorr&et grade 01 fuel. Fill tank with fuel of the proper octan-e rating. 2 Ignition timing Incorrect (Chapter 11. 3 Carburetor in need of adjustmant (Chapter 41. 4 Improper spafk plugs. Check plug type with that sp&eifted on label located inside engine compartment. Also check plugs and wires for damage (Chapter 1I. 5 Worn or damaged distributor components tChapter 51. 6 Faulty emissions system (Chapter 61. 7 Vecuum leak. Check as described in Section 8.

1

2

3

Alternator drivebell defective or rlOt adjusted properly IChapter 11. Electrolyte level low or electrolyte too weak (Chapter 11. Ballery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter 1). Alternator nOt charging proparly (Chapter 5). LDose. broken or laulty wiring in the cha rging circuit (Chepter 5). Short in vehicle circuitry caullng a conlinuai drain on battery. Battery defective internally

Cherge light falls to go OUI Fault in alternator or charging Circuit IChapter 51. Alternator drivebelt dafeclive or nOI properly adjusted IChapter 11.

Charge lighl faU, to come on when key i. turned on Warning hght bulb faulty (Chapter 10). Alternator fautty (Chapter 5). Fault in tha printed cirCUli, dash wiring or bulb holder (Chaptsr 101.

Fuel system 19

Excessive luel consumption

Clogged air filter element (Chaptel 1) Incorr&et Ignition timing (Chapter 1) 3 Choke sticking or improperly adjusted IChapter 11. 4 Emissions system not functioning properlv (not all vehicles. see Chapter 61. 5 Carburetor Idle speed and/or mixture not adjusted properly (Chapler 1). 6 Carburetor Internal parts excesSively worn or damaged (Chepter 4). 7 LDw lire pressure or incorrecl Ille size (Chapter 11. 1 2

20 1 2 3 4 5

Fuel leakege andlor fuel odor Leak In a fuel feed or vent line (Chapter 4). Tank overlilled. Fill only to automatic shut·off. Emissions s,!,Slem liller in need of replacement (Chapler 6 1. Vapor leaks Irom system lines {Chapter 4 ). CarburetOf internal parts excessively worn or damaged (Chapter 4).

Cooling system 21

Overheating

1 Insufficient coolant in system (Chapler 1). 2 Fan bell defective or not adjustad properl,!, (Chapter 1). 3 Radiator core blocked Of radiator grille dlny and restricted (Chapter 31. 4 Thermostat laulty (Chapter 3). 5 Fan blades broken or cracked IChapter 3). 6 Radiator cap not mainlainlng proper pressure. Have cap pressure

Troubleshooting

0-21

telled by gss station or fepair shop. 7 Ignition timing Incorrect (Chapter 1).

3 Clutch disc not .eated. It may taka 30 or 40 normal .tart. for a new disc to saat.

22 Overcooling

29 Gr.bbinV (ch.tt.rlnv) a. clutch Is InVltliJed

1

Oil on clutch disc. Ramove disc (Chapt.r 8) and inspect. Corraci any leakaga souree. 2 Worn or 100 .. angine or transmission mounts. Thel8 units mo.... slightly when clutch I, releasad. Inspect mounts .nd bolts. 3 Worn spline. on clutCh disc. Remova clutch componants (Chap, tar 8) and inspect. 4 Warp.ed preasure pllt. or flywheel. Remove clutch components and inspect.

2

23

Thermostat faulty (Chaptar 3). Inaccurste tamperature gauge (Chapter 10)

Ext.mal coolant I.akag.

O.teriorated or damaged hosas. LDosen clamps at hose connection. (Chapter 11. 2 Water pump seals defective. If this i. tha can. wster will drip from the 'weep' hola in the watar pump body (on .ome models) (Chapter 3). 3 Laskege from radialor core or heBder tank. This will requlra the radiator to be professionally rapairad (see Chaptar 3 lor ramoval proceduresl. 4 Engine drain plugs or water Jacket core plug. lesking (see Chapters 2 snd 3).

Nota: Inttlm81 cool8nt Itl8k$ can usu8/ty be detected by 8xtlmining thtl oil. Check the dipsticlr. 8nd inside of rhtl roclr.e, 8rm cOVBr(s} for w8ter deposifs and 8n oil consistency lik.e thet of a mifk.shake. 1 FaUlty cylinder head gasket. Have the sy.tem pressure-tested or remove the cylinder head(.) (Chapter 2) and Inspect. 2 Cracked cylinder bore or eyHnder head. Oi.mantle engine and inspect (Chapter 2). #

26 1 2 3 4

26

30

Inproper adjustm.nt; no free play (Chapt.r 1). Release bearing binding on transmission bearing retainar. Remoll8 clutch componanll (Chapter 8) and Check balrlnv. Remova any burrs or nicks. clean and relubricala befora reinstallation. 3 Weak linkaliJfl or p.dll return .pring. R.place tha sprlnv. 1

2

Squ.aI or rumble "",lth clutch fully dl•• nveved (ped.' d.pr.lnd)

31

1 Worn. faulty or brok.n release bearinV (Chaptar 8). 2 Worn or brokan pressure plate sprln"a (or diaphragm fingaral (Chaptar 8). 3 Crankshaft pilot bushing worn. Replac. twlhing (Chapter 8).

32

Coolant 10" Overlilling system (Chaplar 1). Coolanl boiling away due to overheating (.ee Section 211. Internal or external leakaga (see Sectionl 23 and 24). Faulty radiator cap. H....e the cap pressure tested.

Squ••1 or rumble with clutch funy .ngBliJed (pedal r.I.IMd)

Clutch ped.1 lie.,. on floor when di••nv.ved

Bind In linkage or r.lea58 bearing. In.peclllnkage or remove clUlCh components as n.c.ssary. 2 Linkage springs being over-traveled. Adjust linkaga for proper frea play. Make sur. proper oedal stop (bumperl i. installed.

Manual transmission

Poor coolant circulation

Note: All the foffowing references are to Chapter 7, unless noted. Inoperative water pump. A quick last I, to pinch the t op radiator hose closed with your hand while tha engina i. idling, than lal it loose. '!bu .hould leel the surge 01 coolant if tha pump Is working properly (Chapler 3). 2 Aallriction in cooling .yltam. Orain, lIush and relill the syltem (Chepler 11. II it appee~ necessary. relTlO\le the redi.tor (Chaptar 3) and h ....8 it reverse·llushed or professionally cleaned. 3 Fan drivebalt defactive or not adjustad properly (Chapter 11. 4 Thermostat sticking (Chapter 31.

33

Noi.y In N.utrll with .ngln. runnlnv

, 2 3 4

Input shefl b.arinv worn. Damaged main drivegaar bearinv. Worn counterg.er bearings. Worn or demavad countergear anli ·lash pllll.

1 2

Any of tha above causes. and/or: InsuHicient lubric.nt (saa checking proceduras in Chaptar 1).

Clutch 27 Fall. to release (pedal pr••• ad to the floor not mov. fr ••ly In Ind out of A.ve,...)

. hlh I ....ar doe.

, improper linkaga fraa play adjustment (Chaplar II. 2 Clutch fork off ball "ud. LDok under the vehicle, on the leh side of Ifsnsmission. 3 Clutch disc wsrped or damaged (Chapt.r 81.

36

28 Clutch .Iip. (.nvln. 'PHd lncr.es•• "",lth no Incrae.. In .... hlcl••peedl

36

, linkaga in need of adjustment (Chapter 1). 2 Clulch disc oil soakad or facing worn. Remove disc (Chapter 81 and Inspect.

1 2

1 2 3 4

NoilY In on. plnlcular g ••r Worn. damaged or chipped Vear teeth for that particular gear. Worn or damaved synchronizer lor that particular vear.

SUp. out of hlVh VH' TrsnsmisaiOfl mounting bolts loose. Shift rods interfering with engine mounts or clutch lever. Shift fads not working fraely. Damaged maln'haft pilot baaring.

0-22

Troubleshooting

5 Dirt between transmission case and engine or misalignment of tlansmisslOn. 6

37

1 2

Worn or improperly adjusted linkage.

Difficulty In engaging gear.

Clutch not releasing completely (see clutch adjustment, Chapter 11. Loose, damaged or maladjusted shift linkage. Make II thorough in-

spection, replacing parts as 1l8C8Ssary. Adjust &s described in Chapter 7.

38

Oil leakage

E~C8ssiv8 amoun! of lubricant in transmission (see Chapter 1 for correct checking procedures; drain lubricant as requi redl. 2 Side cover loose or gasket damaged. 3 Rear oil seal Of speedometer all seal In need of replacement.

Automatic transmission Note: Due /0 the complexity of the eutotmltic t ransmission, it is dif-

ficult for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this component. For problems other than the fol/owing. the Vf1hic/e should be taken to 8 reputable mechanic. 39

Fluid leakage

Automatic transmission fluid is a deep red color and fluid leaks should not be confused with engine oil. which can easily be blown by an flow to the transmission. 2 To pinpoint a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and grime from around the transmission. Degreasing agents and/or steam cleaning will achieve this. With the underside clean, drive the vehicle at low speeds so air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise t he vehicle and determine where the leak is coming from. Common areas of leaka ge

43 Tranlml Slion I lipI, I hlhl rough, is noisy o r hal no drive In forward or revarle gearl There are many probable causes lor the above problems, but the home mechanic should concern himself with only one possibility: fluid level. 2 Before taking the vehicle to a repair shop, check the level and condition of th e fluid as described in Chapter 1. Correct fluid level as necessary or change the fluid and filter if needed. If problem persists, have a pro fessional diagnose the probable cause.

Transfer case 44

Transfer case diffic ult to shih into the desired ran ge

Speed may be too great to permit engagement. Stop the vehicle and shift into the desired range. 2 Shift linkage loose, bent Of binding. Check the linkage for damage or wear and replace or lubricate as necessary (Chapter 7). 3 If the vehicle has been driven on a paved surface for some time. the driveline torque can make shifting difficult. Stop and shift into 2-wheel drive on paved or hard surfaces. 4 Insufficient or incorrect grade or lubriC8nt. Drain and refill the trans fer c ase wit h the specified lub ~cant (Chapter 11. 5 Worn or dam aged internal components. Disassembly and overhaul of the transler case may be necessary (Chapter 71.

45

Transfer case noisy In all gearl

Insufficient or incorrect grade of lubricant. Drain and refill (Chapter 1) .

46

Noisy or jumps out of 4 -wheel drive Lo w range

,lte: 011 b) c) d) e) f)

40

FlUid pan: tighten mounting bolts and/or replace pan gasket as necessary (see Chapter 7). Rear extension: tighten bOlts and/or replace oil seal as necessary (Chapter 7). F~ler pipe: replace the rubber seal whme pipe enters transmission case. Transmission oil tines: tighten connectors where lines en ter transmission case and/or replace lines. Vent pipe: transmission over· fitled and/or water in fluid (see checking procedures. Chapter 1). Speedometer connector: replece t he O-r ing where speedometer cable enters transmission case.

General I hift mechanism problem.

Chapter 7 deals with checking and adjusting the shift linkage on 8utomatic transmissions. Common problems which may be attributed to poorly 8dJusted linkage are: a) Engine starting in gears othar than Park or Neutral. bl Indicator on Quadf8nt pointing to a gear other than the one actually being selected. cl Vehicle will not hold firm when in Park position. 2 Refer to Chapter 7 to adjust the manual linkage.

1 Transfer case not fully engaged. Stop the vehicle, shift into Neutral and then en gage 4L. 2 Shift linkage loose, worn or binding. Tighten. lepan or lubricate linkage as necessary. 3 Shift fork cracked, inserts worn or fork binding on the rail. Disassemble and repair as necessary [Chapter 7l.

47 Rasping. pul. ating noise. particularly at low speeds (Quadre·Trac) Quadra-Trac stick-slip condition caused by improper lubrication or mismatched tire sizes. Drain and refill the transfer case [Chapter 1) and check the tire size and inflation.

48

Lubricant leaks from the vent or output shaft leel s

1

Transfer case is overfilled. Drain to the proper level (Chapter 1). Vent is clogged or iammed closed. Clear 01 replace the vent. 3 Ou tput shaft seal incorrectly installed or damaged. Replace the seal and check the seal contact surfaces for nicks and scoring.

2

Driveshaft 4' Tranl mission will not downlh lh with accalerator pedal prass ad to the floor

49

Chapter 7 deals with adjusting the downshift cable or downshift SWitch to enable the transmission to downShift properly.

Defective transmission or transfer case oil seal. See Ch8pter 1 lor replacement procedures.

42

50 Knock or clunk when tran l minion is under initial load Uust aher transmisalon il put Into gaar)

Engine w ill start in gearl other than Park or Neutral

Chapter 7 deals with adjusting the various linkages used with 3utomatlc transmissions.

Leakage of fluid at front of dr!veshaft

Loose or disconnect ed re ar suspension components. Check all

Troubleshooting mounting bolts and bushings (Chapter 111. 2 Loose drivashaft bolts. Inspect all bolll and nuts and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 8). 3 Worn or damaged universal joint bearings. Test fOl' wear [Chaptar 8).

51

Matallic grating sound conilitent with vehicle I peed

Pronounced wear in the universal joint bearings. Test for weer (Chapter 8).

0-23

one side. Inspect as descflDed in Chapter 1. 2 Excessive weer of brake shoe pad material or drumfdisc on one .ide. Inspect and correct as necessary, 3 Loose or disconnected front suspension components. Inspect and tighten all bolts to the specified torque (Chapter 11. 4 Defective wheel cylinder or caliper assembly. Aemove and inspect for stuck piston or damage [Chapter 9).

57

Noise {high-pitched _queal without brake applledl

Front brake pads worn out_ The noise comes from t he wear sensor rubbing against the disc (does not apply to aU vehicles), Replace pads with new ones immediately [Chapter 91. Note: Bafo'-& it can be assumed that the driveshllft is lit fllult. mllka sure tha I,res are perfectly balanced and perlorm Ihe folfowing lest. 1 Install a techometer inside the vehicle to monitor engine speed as the vehicle is driven. Drive the vehicle and note the engine speed et which the vibration [roughness) is most pronounced. Now shift the transmission to a different gear end bring the engine speed to the same point . 2 If the vibration occurs at the same engine speed [rpm) regardless of which gear the transmission is in, the dnveshaft is NOT at fault since the drlveshalt speed varies. 3 If the vibration decreases or is eliminated when the transmission is in a different gfIar at tha same engine speed, refer to the following probable ceuses. 4 Bent or dented driveshaft. Inspect and replace as necessary [Chapter 8). 5 Undercoating or bUild -up din. etc. on the dflveshalt. Clean the shaft thoroughly and recheck. 6 Worn universal joint bearings. Remove and i" spec t [ChClp ler 8). 7 Driveshaft andlor companion flange out of belance. Check for missing weights on the shaft. Remove driveshaft [Chapter 8) and reinstall 180" from original position. Aetest. Heve driveshaft professionally balanced If problem persists.

Axles 53

Nolae [lame when in dri .... al when vehicle II coaSling)

1 2 3

Road noise. No corrective procedures available. Tire noise. Inspect tires and tire pressures [Chapter II. Front wheel bearings loose. ,worn or damaged [Chapter 11.

58 ExcelllVtl brake pedal travel Partial brake system failure. Inspect entire system (Chapter 9) and correc t as required . 2 Insuff icient fluid in master cyllnder. Check (Chapler 11. add fluid and bleed system if necessary. 3 Rear brakes oot adjusting properly. Make a senas of starts and stop. while the vehicle is in Reverse. If this does not correct the situation, remove drums and inspect self-adjusters (Chapter 9). 4 On early models, adjust the brakes {Chapter 91.

59 Brake pedal teel. spongy when depra"ed 1 Air in hydraulic lines. Bleed the brake system (Chapter 91. 2 Faulty flexible hoses. Inspect all system hoses and lines. Aeplace parts IS necessary. 3 Master cylinder mounting nuts loose. Inspect master cylinder [nuts) and tighten to specified torque. 4 Master cylinder faulty [Chapter 9).

60

54

Vib ration

See probable causes under Drill8shaft, Proceed under the guidelines listed lor the driveshalt. If the problem persist •• check the rear wheel bearings by raising the rear of the vehicle and 5pinning the wheels by hand. Listen for evidence of rough {nolsyl bearings. Remove and inspect (Chapter 8).

1 Power break servo not oparating properly (Chapter 9). 2 Excessively worn shoes or pads. Inspect and replace if necessary IChapter 9). 3 One or more caliper pistons or wheel cylinders seized or sticking. Inspect and rebuild as required (Chapter 9). 4 Brake shoes or pads contaminated with oil or grellSe. Inspect and replace as required (Chepter 91. 5 New pads or shoes installad and not yet seated. It will take awhile for the new material to seat against the drum [or rotOl') .

61

1 Pinion seal damaged [Chaptar 8). 2 Axle shalt oil seals damaged [Chapter SI. 3 Differentiel inspection cover leaking. TIghten mounting bolts or replace the gasket a5 required [Chapter 81.

Elllce"iva affon required to stop ....hlcle

P.dal trayell 10 floor wilh Iltlle resistance

Little or no fluid in the master cylinder reservoir (caused by leaking wheel cyl inder{s). leaking caliper piston[s). loose. damaged or dlscon· nected brake linesl. Inspect entire system and correct as necessary.

62

Brake pedal pul.at•• during brake appllcallon

Brakes Nota: Before assuming that a bfllke probkm alCists. make sure that the tires lire in good condition lind infillted properly (see Chllpter 11, the front end alignment is correct lind IfIlII Ihe vehicle is not loaded with weight in an unequal manner. 56

Vehicle pull. to one side during breklng Defective. damaged or oil contaminated brake shoes or pads on

1 Wheel bearings not adjusted properiy or in need of replacement (Chapter 11 ). 2 Caliper nOI sliding properly due to improper installation or obstructions. Remove and inspect [Chapter 9 1. 3 Aotor not within specifications. Remove the rotor (Chapter 9) and check lor excessive lateral runout and parallelism. Have the rotor machined or replace it with a new one. 4 Out·of-round brake drums. Aemove the drums and have them resurfa ced or replace them with new ones.

0-24

Troubleshooting

Suspension and steering 63

,

2 3

VehIcle pulls to on. ,Id.

nre pressures uneven !Chapter

1).

2 Defective tire (Chapter 1). 3 Excessive weal in suspension or steering components {Chapter 11. 4 Front end in need of alignment. Take vehicle to 8 qualified specialist. S Front brakes dragging. Inspect brake. 815 described In Chepler 1.

64

1 Steering pump drivebeh taulty or not adjusted properly (Chaptar 1). 2 Fluid lavel low (Chapler 11. 3 Hoses or lines restricting the flow. Inspect and replace parts as necessary. 4 Air In power steering system. Bleed system (Chapler 11).

Shimmy. shlke or vlbretion 69

Tire or wheel oUl-al-balance or out-of-round. Have professionally belanced. 2 L0058, worn or out-ol-adjustment wheel bearings (Chapter 11. 3 Shock absorbers end /or suspension components worn or demo aged (Chepter 11.

65 bee.siva plcchlng Ind/or roiling around corner. or during brlklng 1 Datective shock absorbers. Replace as a sat ICheptar 11). 2 Broken or weak springs end/or suspension components. Inspect as dascribed in Chapter 11 .

66

1 2 3 4

70

b:casslva tlra _ar Inot spaclflc to ona er(8) Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter 1) r lfes out of balance. Have professionelly balanced . Wheels damaged. Inspect and replace as necessary. Suspension or steering components excessively worn ,Chapter 1).

Excessive tlra _ar on ouu.lda edge

1 Inflation pre8lures not correct !Chapter 11. 2 Excessive speed on turns. 3 Front ernlalignment incorrect (excessive toe-in I. Have professionally aligned. 4 Suspension arm bent or twistad.

bceulvely stiff steering

Lack of lubricant In steering box (manual) or power steering fluid reservoir IChapter 1). 2 Incorrect tire pra8lures (Chapter 1). 3 Lack of lubrication al sleering joints (Chapter 1). 4 Front end out of alignmenl. S See also Section 68, Lscl( of power assistanca.

, 2 3

72 67

Excessive weer in suspension 01 steering components (Chapter 1). Steering g8el Oul of adjustment (Chapter 111.

bcauiva play In st-'ng loose wheel bearings (Chapter').

1 2 3

Inflation pres.ures incorrect (Chepler 11. Front end alignment incorrect (toe-out). Have professionally aligned. loose or damaged steering components (Chapter "I.

Twa traad worn In one place TIres out o f balance. Damaged or buckled wheel. Inspect and replace ., necessary Defectiva tire.

1-1

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Content. Air filter end PCV filler replacement .......•........... Automatic: transmission fluid change ..•..•.....

17 27

Battery - check .nd maintenance

....... .

38

Brake check .. .. .. .. .. . .. .. .. . .. . . •. • .. .. C.rburetor choke check (late models onlyl ............. . Carburetor mounting torque check ................... . Chassis lubric8Iion • . • • . • . . . .•..•.•.•• • •.•.•. CIUICh pedal tree pie.,. check •..•.•.•..•.•...••••.•. Cooling svstem check. . . . . . ............... .

31 I.

Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling) ............. . Contact points and condenser - replacement and adjustment (1953 through 1974 models) ................... .. . Cylinder compression check •..•......•.•.•..•....... Differendel lubricant change ...•.•......•... Drivebelt check and adjustment ..•..... Engine idle speed adjustment ....•....•.•••.•..•... Engine oil and filter change. . . . . ..•.•.••••.•.••.•.. Evaporative Control System (ECSllitter repl.cement ....•.• bhausl Gas Recirculation I EGRI valve check ...... . bhaust svstem check E~haust heat valve check ........•.••••.•...••

20 7

24 8

3. 34 37 30 11 21

5

3. 23

•

22

Fluid level checks ..........•.•...••.•••••••.••.• Fuel filter replacement .......••...••....... Fuel system check . . . . . . . • . • . • • . • • • . • • . . . . • . • •. • Ignhion timing check and adjustment •.•....•.•..• • ... Introduction to routine maintenance ......•..••... . • Manusl transmission lubricant chan.ge •••..•.•.........• Oil bath·type air cleaner service •.•.••••.•.•.•..• Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCVI valve reptacement Routine maintenance schedule ....••..•.•...... Spark plug replacement •.•......•.•...•...... Spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor - check and replecement .......•...... Suspension and steering check ....•....... Thermo·controlled Air Cleaner IT ACI check .... Tire and tire prassure checks •. . . . • .• •• Tire fotation . . • . • . . • . • . • . • . . • . • . • . •. .. . •..•... Transfer case lubricant chanoe •. . •.•............. Tune·up sequence .......•.• •. . ••.............. Underhood hoses - check and replacement . • ••••••.•• Valve ctearance adjustment (F- and L·head en.gines onlyl •• Wheel bearing check ••.•.•.••••.•.•. . ..••.•• Windshield wipers - Inspection and blade replacement .

. Specifications Not.: Additional specifications can be found in the appropriate Chapters.

Recommended lubricants and fluids Engine oil type Single viscosity Above +4O"F (150 C) .... .......................... . ..... . Above O"F (-I8"C) ....................... . . ........... . Below O"F (- 18" C) . .. . .................. . Multi-viscosity Above +4O"F (150 C) ........... . Above 0" (-18" C) . . . ' . ............ .......... .

Below 0" F (- 18" C) . ......... . °Do not operata at speeds above 5S mph with SAE JOW oil Engine coolant type . .... . .....•..•....•. . .•..•.. •... Automatic trat\$mission fluid type .......... . ....... ... . Manual transmission lubricant type T·5 (5-speed) ••.••.•••..••••..•.••••.••• • •• o • • o. Allothilrs ..................................... . Transl.. case lubricant type and viscosity $pic8f 18 and 20 .... .... ............................... . Model 300 ..... .. . .... ................. .. ............. . Quadra-Trac ..•. . .•..• .... Front and rear differential lubricant type and viscosity Conventional .. .. .. .......... Trac· l oc •..•... . ........•.... Brake fluid type . • . . . . ......•... Steering gear lubricant POWIlf steering system fluid .•....•.• Suspension and steering component grea58 .. . Wheel bearing grease ......................... .

API SF rating

SAE 30 01' 40W SAE 20W SAE lOW

SAE 10W-JO. 20W-30 or 10W-40 SAE 10W-JO or 10W-40 SAE 5W-20 01' 5W-JO

50150 mix 01 water and ethytene glycol based antifreeze OEXRON II Jeep Manual Transmission lubricant (part No. 4874464) SAE 75W·90 API Gl-5 gear lubricant API Gl-5, SAE SOW-90 API Gl-5, SAE S5W-90 Jeep Ouadra-Trac lubricant 01' SAE JOW non-detergent motor oil API Gl-5. SAE BOW-90 API Gl-5, SAE BOW-90 limited slip lubricant DOT type 3 (SAE J1703) LHhlum based chassis lube

OEXRON II NlGI No.2 lithium based grease NlGI No.2 lithium based grease

Capacities Engine oil (With filter change) F- and l-head four-cylinder engine ••...•. • .•. Sj~·cyljnder engine ...•.•..•.... V6 engine. . . . .• . . . . ...••....•.. VB engine ..•..•... 151 cu in lour-cylinder engine. 150 cu in four-cylinder engine.

5 US qts

6 USqts 5 USqts 5 USqts 3 USqts /I US qts

4 14

13 35

,. 1

28

15 3 32 33

10 18

•

25

2'2 12 40 2• 41

1

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-2 Capacities (continued) Cooling system

F- and l-head four-cylinderengil"l9 ............. . Six-cylinder ellQine ....•..•.••.••. V6 engine ................ . VB engine 1972 through 1976 ............. .. .. . ... , .. , .... .

1977 through 1981 ......................... . ......... . 151 cu in lour-cylinder engine .•. '50 cu in four-cylinder engine Standard ........ . ........ . With air-conditioning or heavy duly system Automatic transmission Through 1979 1980 through 1986 Manual transmission 3-speed (F- and l-head and V6 engines) 4-speed (F- and L-head and V6 engines) .................... . 3-speed (six-cylinder engine) 1972 through 1975 ... . . . 1976 through 1979 .•. 3-speed (V8) •.•..•.••.••. 4-speed 1972 through 1979 1980 through 1986 SR-4 ........ . •..•.••. . ~176 ................................ . T-55-speed ........... . . . Transfer case Model 18 ..................•..• . ..•..•..•..•. Model 20 . . ............................ . Model 300 ................. . Cuadra-Trac (1976 only) With reduction unit . ........ . All others .............. . Cuadra-Trac (1977lhrough 1979) With reduction unit . All others ............. .... . Differential ThrOU9h 1971 (fron t and rear) 1972 through 1975 Front ...................... . Rear 1976 and 1977 Front Rear ...... . 19781hrou9h 19B6 Fronl. . ............................... . Rear

12USqts 10.5 US qts 10 US qts 14 US qls 12 US qts 7.8 US qls 11 USqts 14 US qts 5 US qts 4.25 US q l s 2.5 US pIs 6.75 US pIS 2.5 US pis 2.8 US pIs 2.75 US pIs 6.5 US pIs 3.0 US pIs 3.5 US pIs 4.0 US pIs 3.25 US pIs 3.25 US pIs 4 US pIs 4.5 US pIs 3.5 US pIs 2.5 US pIS 2.0 US pIs 2.5 US pIs 2.5 US pIs 3.0 US pIs 2.5 US pts 4 US pIS 2.5 US pIs 4.8 US pIs

Spark plug type (Check the Emissions Control Information label Specifications for your vehicle) F-head four-cylinder engine L-head four-cylinder engine In-line six-cylinder engine . V6 engine ......... V8 engine .......... 151 cu in four-cylinder engine 150 co in four-cylinder engine

...

. .. • ..•. • ...•. • ... •

AC-45 or Champion J·8 Champion J-B N12Y. RN12Y. N13L or RN13L AC-44S or Champion UJ12Y N12Y or RN13L ACR44TSX Champion RFN14LY

Spark plug gap F-head four-cylinder engine .. L-head four-cylinder engine .. In-line six-cylinder engine V6 engine .. VB engine . .. ........ . 151 cu in four-cylinder engine 150 cu in four-cylinder engine

0.030 in 0.030 in 0.03310 0.037 in 0.035 in 0.033 to 0.038 in 0.060 in 0.035 in

Spark plug firing order All four cylinder engines .... Six-cylinder in-line engine .. V6 engine VB engine

1-3-4-2 1-5-3-6-2-4 1-6-5-4-3-2 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

1-3

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Distributor direction of rotation F- and L·head four cylinder engines. All others

Counterclockwise Clockwise FIRINC OROER 1.3.4.2

Battery specific gravity · (fully charged) F- and l -hesd lour-cylinder and V6 anginas All others ... . . _ . .

1.260 1.265

Distributor point gap l -head engine Autohte distributor Oelco-Aemy distributor F-hesd engine (Prestolite distributod _ ___ . All sill -cylinder and V8 engines

0.020 in 0.022 in 0.020 in 0 .016

F- and L-head four-cylinder engine (1953-1971)

Dwell angle l -head engine . F-head engine In-line sill-cylinder engines V-6 engine PreSlolite distributor Oelco-Remy distributor V8 engine

25 to 34°

42' 31 to 34°

32' 30' 29 to 3 , 0 fiRING ORDER

Ignition timing F- and l -head non-emission controlled engines . ..... . F-head emission controlled engines. V6 engine Oelco-Remy distributor Prestolite distributor In-hne SllC -cylind9f engines 1973 and 1974 232 cu in engille 258 cu in engine 1975 232 cu in engine (Without EGRI 258 cu in engine (with EGR) . '976 232 and 258 cu in engine (manual transmisSiOn) 258 cu in engina 'automatic transmission) . 1977 232 cu in engine With 49 -state emission tYF carbure torl 232 cu in engine with almGde compensator (YF carburetorl Above 4000 It Below 4000 It 25S cu III engine (YF carburetor) Manual transmiSSion and 49-state emissions Manual transmission and altitude compensator ___ _ . Manual transmission and California emissions Automatic transmission and 49-5tate emissions . . .. . Automatic transmission and California emissions . _ .. . 258 cu in IInglne (BBO carburetor) 1978 232 cu in engine tYF carburetorl Manual transmission and 49-slale emissions Manual transmission and altil ude compensator Above 4000 ft Below 4000 It 258 cu In engine (YF carburetor) Manual transmISsion and 49-state emissions Manual transmission and California emissions _. Automatic transmiSSion and 49 -sta te emissions. Automatic transmission and Californis emissions 258 cu in engine (BSO carburlltor - all) . 1979 258 cu In (YF carburetod Manual transmission Automatic transmission 258 cu in (BBD carbOietor) Manual tranSmISSiOn Automatic transmiSSion

1+~4-)'2

1

5° BTDC 0° (TDC I 5° 8TDC

0"

(TOC)

5" BTDC

V6 engine (1953-1971)

3° BTDC 3" to 7° BTDC ,0 to 5° BTDC 6° to , 0" BTOC 4° to 8° BTDC 5° BTDC

. ®®0®®CD

10'

S' ," 8" 4" 8° 6° 4°

to to to to to to

5° BTOC '2° BTDC 8° BTDC 12° STDC 10" BTDC 8° BlOC

3° to 7° 8l0C 80 to 12° BTDC 5" BTOC 1° 6° 8° 6° 40

to to to to to

Inlina sIll-cylinder engIne (1972-1974)

. ®®0®®CD

5° STDC 10· BlOC 10· BTOC 10" BlOC 8° BTDC Inline-silt·cylinder engine (1975-1986)

4° to 8" BTDC 2° to 6" BlOC 6° to S" BTOC So to , 0" BTDC

Cylinder location and distributor rotation

1-4

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Ignition timing ( continued) VB engme

4° to 5° BlOC to 7" BlOC

1973 and 1974 . .. . . 1975 (manual transmission)

UFT aANI!

3°

1976 Automatic transmission and 49-state emissions . . ... • .... • •. Manual transmission and 49-state emissions ............. . . Manual and automatic transmission and California emissions

1977 49 state emissions ...

8" to 12" BlOC 3" to 7" BlOC 3" to 7" BlDC 8" to 12'" BlOC

3" to 7" BlOC

California emissions . .

1978 Manual transmission

Automatic transmission

...• • ..•

Automatic transmission and California emissions ..... _ ..... .

3" to 7" BlOC 8° to 12" BlDC 3° to 7" BlOC

1979 Manual transmission .. . . •. . • .• ..• . .•..• . .•..• . .• .. • . Automatic transmission . ••.•..•.•..• . •• .. • . •• .....

3" to 7" BlOC 6" 10 10" BlOC

CLOCKWISE ROTATION ,,,·4·3 ·1-6·7 ·' RIGHT

IlAN~

CD CD CD FRONT!)

V8 engine (1972-1983)

1980 Manuallransmission and 49-state emissions ... .. .. . . Manuallransmissioo and California emissions . .. ....... .. . . Manual transmission hilly terrain operation ... Automatic transmission and 49-state emissions Automatic transmission and Califomia emissions . • _ ... . . , . .. 1961 Manual transmission and 49-state emissions ., .. , .. , .. • .. , _ Manual transmission hilly terra in operation , .. , .. , ..•.. , .. • _ Automatic transmission and 49-state emissions . • .... .. •. .•. 151 cu in four-cylinder in-line engine 1960 and 1961 (with vacuum advance hose disconnected) Manual transmission and 49-state emissions •.. • . . •. . •..• . . Manual transmission and California emissions . • , .. , . • ,. Automatic transmission and 49-state emissions , , . Automatic transmission and California emissions 1962 (with vacuum advance hose disconnected) Manual transmission and 49-state emissions Manual transmission and Califomia emissions Manual transmission high altitude operation (above 4000 tt) . , . 1963 (with vacuum advance hose disconnected) (all) •.. • ..•..• , . 150 cu in four-cylinder engine 50 state .......... , High altitude ..... , .. . .. . _ . • • . . _ .• ..• _ .•..• , . .

6" 10 10" BlOC 3" to 7" BlOC 10" to 14° BlDC 8" 1012" BlOC 3° to 7" BlOC 8" BlOC 12" BlDC 10" BlDC 10" BlOC 12'" BlOC 12° BlOC 10" BlDC

12" BlDC 6"BlDC 17° BlOC 12'" BTDC 12" BlOC 19" BTDC

Valve clearances F-head engine Intake .. . " .•• . •... .. , . Exhaust , . . . •..•....•. . •. ... L-head engine Ontake and exhaust) •.•. . , . . . .

0.016 in 0,018 in 0.016 in

Curb idle speed settings L-head engine ..•. , .. , .. , . F-head engine YF-938-SD carburetor . , . YF-4002-S carburetor .. . .... , YF-4366-S. YF-4941-S and YF-5115-S carburetors With distributor IAY-4401A . With distributor IAY-4401 B . V6 engine (all models) ... . ..... , In-line six-cylinder engines 1972 and 1973 Automatic transmission . , .. , . . •..•. Manual transmission wi th EGR .... . , .. • . . •..•.. . ..•. . •. Manual transmission without EGR. . . ... • .. • .. • . • _ .. _ .. _ . 1974 Automatic transmission Manualtransmission . . 1975 232 and 258 cu in engine without EGR 258 cu in engine with EGR Manual transmission Automatic transmission ... ... . ...•.• . ..•. .... • ... 232 and 258 cu in California engines , . . •. . •. . , .. . . 1976 232 cu in engine (manual transmission) . . 258 cu in engine Automatic transmission .• .. _ . ... _ .•... _ .• _ .••.• _ .••.

0@00

600 rpm 600 rpm 650 to 700 rpm 650 to 700 rpm 700 to 750 rpm 650 to 750 rpm

550 rpm 600 rpm 700 rpm 550 rpm 600 rpm 700 rpm 450 to 650 rpm 550 to 750 rpm 500 10 700 rpm 500 10 700 rpm 450 to 650 rpm

151 cu in four-cylinder en9ine (1980-1983)

FRONT

G

(0000)

~ 150 cu in four-cylinder (1984-1986)

Cylinder location and distributor rotation

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Autom.tic transmission and Caillornia emissions Manual transm ission Manual transmission and California emissions 1977 without altitude compensation device Manual transmiSSion Automatic transmission 1977 with altitude compensation davice Manual transmission Automatic transmission Manual transmission and Calilorn,a emission! __ Automatic transmission and Cahlornla emissions 1978 232 cu In engine Manual trensmission AutOm.IIC transmlsslon/ahllude comp60&a llon device_ 258 cu in engine Manual transmission Manual transmission/altitude compensation device __ Automatic transmission _ _. .. . 1979 and 1980 Manual transmiSSion Automatic lIansmission 1981 and 1982 Manual transmiSSion Automatic lIansmlssion 1983 Manual transmission and 49-stalll amissions. Automatic t"nsmission and 49-sl8le emissions Manual lIansmission and California emissions Automatic tlllnsmission and California emissions.. .. _ . Manual transmission and altitude compensation device .. Automatic transmission and altitude compensation device V8 engine ' 1972 through 1974 '975 and 1976 Manual transmission Automatic transmission 1977 Manual transmission Automatic transmiSSion 1978 Manual transmission Autom.tic lIansmlSSlon 1979 Manual transmission Manual transmission and California amissions ...... _ .. Automatic transmission 1980 Manual transmission Automatic transmission and 49-stale emissions Automatic transmiSSion and California emissions. 1981 Manual lIansmission and 49-state amissions Manual transmission and hilly terrain operation AutomatiC lIansmiSSIon 15' cu In lour-cylinder engine '980 and '98' Manual transmission Automatic "ansmission , 982 and 1983 (all models) 150 cu in lour-cylinder engine

600 to 800 'pm 500 to 700 'pm 500 to 700 rpm 850 rpm 550 rpm 600 550 850 700

rpm rpm 'pm rpm

750 to 950 rpm 500 to 700 rpm 750 to 950 'pm 500 to 700 'pm 450 to 650 rpm 600 to 800 rpm 500 to 700 rpm 650 rpm 550 rpm 600 500 650 550 700 650

,pm rpm rpm rpm rpm rpm

700 to 800 ' pm 650 to 850 rpm 600 to 800 rpm 700 to 750 'pm 700 rpm 650 to 950 rpm 600 to 800 rpm 600 to 800 rpm 650 to 850 rpm 550 to 750 rpm 600 10 800 'pm 550 to 750 rpm 500 to 700 rpm 500 to 700 rpm 700 'pm 550 to 650 rpm

900 rpm 700 rpm 900 rpm 750 rpm

Compres sion pressure F- and L-head four-cylinder engines

V6 engine In-hne six-cylinder engines 232 cu in engine 258 cu In engine V8 engll'\e 151 cu In fOUl-cylinder engine 150 cu in lour-cylinder engine

120 to 130 psi lowest reading cyl, must ba at least 7596 of highest reading cyl. '40 psi 150 psi 140 psi 140 pSi 155to185psl

Clutch pedal free pia V 1953 through 1972 1973 through' 975

1-5

3/410'-'/4In 1/2 to 3/ 4 in

1

1-6

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Clutch Dedal free plav (continued) 1976 and 1977 ...... .

3/4 101 in 1 to 1·1/4 in

1978 through 1986 ....... .

Brakes Disc brake pad lining service limit . ......•. Drum brake shoe lining service limit Bonded . ... . . . . . . ........ . . ... . . Riveted . .. ....•.•......•

When worn to approximately the thickness of the pad backing plate

Torque specifications

Ft-Ib

Nm

Automatic transmission oil pan bolts . . . ... . . . Manual transmission drain and fill plugs .......• Transfer case drain and fill plugs. . .......... . .. . Axle housing drain and fill plugs. . . . . . ..... . .... . •. . Spark plugs F- and L-head lour-cylinder engines V6 engine .......•........•. All others

12 15t020

16 20 to 27 20 to 34 20 to 34

1116 in 1132 in above rivet head

15 to 25

15 to 25 25 to 33 25 to 35 22 to 33

1 Introductio n to routine ma inte nance This Chapter was designed to help t he home mechanic maintain his lor I'H;If) vehicle for peak performence, economy, safety and long life. On Ihe following pages you will find a maintenance schedule along with Sections which deal specifically wilh eech item on the schedule. Included are visuel checks, edjustments and item replacements. Servicing your vehicle using the tim&/mileage maintenance schedule ,tnd Ihe sequenced Sections will give you e pl anned program of maintenance. Keep in mind that it is a compre hensive plan; maintaining only a few itams althe specified intervals will not produce Ihe same results . As you service your vehicle you will find Ihat, due 10 the neture of the job, many of the procedures can and shoul d be grouped logether. Examples of this ere: If the vehicle is reised for chessis lubrication, it is an ideal time for the manual transmission oil, exhaust syslem. suspension. sleering and fuel system checks. If the tires and Wh86ls ere removed, es during e routine lire rotation, go ahead and check the brekes and wheel bearings al the same time. If you must borrow or nmt a torque wnmch, it is 8 good idea to replace the spark plugs and/or repack (or replace)lhe wheel Dearings all in the same day to save time end money. The first slep in this or any mainlenance plan is to prepare yourself before the actual wo rk begins. Read through the appropriate Sec tions for all work that is to be performed before you begin. Gather together all necessary parts and 10015. If it appears that you coutd have a problem during a particular job, don't hesitata to ask advice from you r local parts man or dealer service department .

M inor tune·up

•

Clean, inspect and test battery ISec 38) Check all engine-related fluids ISec 41 Check cylinder compression (Sec 371 Check and adjust drivebelts ISec 11) Replace spark plugs (Sec 32) Inspect distributor cap and rotor (Sec 32) Check andlor replaca breaker points and adjust dwell angle (Sec 341 Inspect andlor replace spark plug and coil wires (Sec 331 Change oil and filter (Sec 5) Check and adjust idle speed ISec 211 Check and adjust timing (Sec 35) Check and adjuJt fue1/air mixture (Chapter 41 Replace fuel filte r ISec 141 Replace PCV valve (Sec 15) Adjust valve clearances ISec 401 Check cooling system (Sec 8)

Major tune-up Perform all operations listed under Minor tune-up Check ignition advance systems (Chapter 51 Check EG A system (Chapter 6) Test alternetor end regulator (Chapter 5) Test igni tion system (Chapter 5) Test cha rging 5Y5tem (Chapler 5) Check fuel system (Chapter 4)

3 2

34 to 44 34 to 45 17 to 44

Routine maintenance schedule

Tune-up . equ ence

The term 'Iune-up' is loosaly applied to any general operation thaI puts the engine back into proper running condi tion. A tune -up is nol a specific operation, but rather a combination of individual operations, such as replacing the spark plugs, adjusting the idle speed, selting the ignilion timing, etc. If. from tha time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule ISection 3) is followed closely and frequent checks are made 01 fluid levets and high wear items. as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition and the need for all inclusive tune-ups will be minimized. More likely than not, however, there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle which has not received regular and f requent maintenance checks is bought. In such ceses an engine tune-up will be needed outside of the regular routine maintenance intervals. The following serias of oparations are those most often needed to bring a generally poor running angina back into a proper state of tune.

This maintenance schedule covers all of the service procedures recommended by the manufacturer. In some instances the intervals have been altered where additional or more frequent checks are advisable. Note: Not ell maintenance checks or operations are appliceble to every

model.

Every 250 miles, _ ekly or before a long trip Check the tife pressures (when cold) Inspect the tires for wear and damage (Sec 6) Check the steering for smooth and accurate operation (Sec 10) Check the power steering fluid level, refilling as necessary ISec 41 Check the brake fluid level and , if it has dropped noticeably, inspect the system lor leaks (edd fluid if necessary) ISec 41 Check the operation of the brakes ISec 311 Check the automatic transmission fluid level (Sec 4)

~)

Fig . 1.1 , Blltt.,')' 2 Hell t., hOSIlS

3 Air cltum.r IIsstHnbly 4 Air Injection systllm

"""

5 C.rbur.tor 6 Br.kII boost.,

engine comp.nment compon8ntl (typklillat. model in-lin. slx-cyllnder)

,

~

0>

----.

,

Fig. 1.2 Engine compartment components (typical late model VB)

Battery 2 Heater hose 3 Air cleaner essembly

6 Windshield washer

4 Fuel filter

8 Radiator 9 Distributor

5 Brake master cylinder reservoir

reservoi, 7 Powel steering pump

10 Rlldistor cap

"

Oil filler cap

12 Upper fadiafor hose , 3 Emissions Control Information label 14 Ignition coil

Ag. 1.3 Englntl comp.lt"",nt undersKle compOflent. Uvplc.lI I 2 3 4 5 6

Spring Spring bU$hin9 Sway bar Grease lirr;ng Steering geer Steeflng arm

7 Grea$e fitting 8 Steering damper 9 Steering knuckle 10 Braka calipar /I Brake line 12 A)lle hOU$l·n9

'3 Engine oN drein plug 14 Drive$haft 15 Front dflveshalt univarsal iomt 16 Differentiel housmg

17 Differential housing cover 18 Shock absorber 19 Grea$e fitting 20 Graase fitring ~

~

'"

1-10

•

~~

~.s: :!:! ,~~

"'" 'O! ~

E c: &.Q ~ !!.c: o.'b

'i;.!"§ ~ ~ ...::,"tt .. ~

~

E

---

•••

..

• 0

~

~

0 u

2:

~

.if ~

•• ••

~

••

~

~

0,0-,...

-

""'a!. ~ .. . ~~ ~

~.-

~ .s ~ S t;

~

\(')1Q .....

ctI

't:;

t}cft5~

1-11

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine mainten ance Check the operation of all tights Check the operation of tha windshield wipers and washers Check the wiper mechenism and blades lSac 41) Fill the washer reservoir as necessary (Sec 4) Check the horn operation Check the operation of ali gau.ges and instruments Check the radiator coolant level ,Sec 4) Check tha battery electrolyte level fSec 4)

Every 5000 mllea or 6 months, wh ichever comas flrat Lubricate the auspenaion and steering components (Sec 7) Check the PCV valve lor proper operatIOn (Sec 15) Change the engine oil and filtel {Sec 5) Check and lubricate the clutCh lever and linkage (Sec 7) Check the tlansfer ca" lubricant 18vel (Sec 4) Check and adjust the engine idle speed (Sec 21) Check the manual transmission lubricant level (Sec 4) Lubricate the rear wheel bearings on 1953 /hrough 1971 modals with grease finingl (Sec 7) Check the Iront and rear axle lubricant level (Sac 4) Inspect the 8xhaust system (Sec 9) Check and adjuS! the F· and l-head valve clearances (Sec 40) Inspect tha brake line. and hose. (Chapter 9) 'napect the m.ke discs and peds (Sec 311 Check the ste8l'in9 box lubrican1 level (Sec 7)

Evary 3000 mUes or 3 mont ha, wh lchev8r comea flrat Change engine oil and liltel (heavy-duty operation) (Sec 5) Check and service the 011 bath-type air cleanel (Sec 16) lubficate the clutch lever and linkage (heavy-duty operation) (Sec 71 Lubflcate the suspension and steering components {heavy-duty operation) {Sec 7)

1

®

~

FOUR·CY LINDER ENGI NE

®

NOT APPLICABLE

SIX-CYlINDER ENGINE

NOT APPLICABLE

va ENGINE

,

Fig. 1.5 1S71 through 1986 model enSine compartment chacks

Engine oi/level

2 Oil filler 3 Oil filter 4 Automatic transmission fluid level

5 Battery alec/lolytB level 6 Braktt master cylinder fluid levttl 7 Coofant level and condition

8 Power steering Iluid HJvel 9 Dn"vebelt tension 10 FUlIf filter

12 Air cleaner fifter element 13 PCV filrer

"

15 Spark plug replilcement

Exhaust heat valve check and lubricatIOn

14 PCV valva and hose connections

1-12--------------------------------------------------~

)

Fig. 1.6

'953 through 1971 ch.I.I, lu bricat io n a nd check points

Ch~ssis

belJring grease fittings 2 Spring sheckle lind

pivot bushings 3 UnivfI(SlJ1 joints [md

•

o

driveshllh Front axle bearings

5 Steering

g88( housing 6 Reef wheel bfJllrings

7 8 9 10

Front wheel billrings Tnlnsmission Transfer elise Front differrmti/JI

"

Rallr differe~tilll

12 Distributor 13 V6 engine distributor
I. Ai, cfellner 15 Engine oil

cv-Co

LUBR ICAT ION PO INTS

Fig. 1.7 1972 through 1986 cnassis lubrication and check points Front lind rear differentials 2 Front wheel be8fings end manuel locking hub 3 Brake operation end ffuid level

•

Clutch leve' and linkege

5 Exhaust system ch.ck 6 Manuel st08rin9 gear 7 Driveshefr

BRAKES

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Check the dellection 01 all drivebelts (Sec 11 f Check the operation 01 the brake booster (Chepter 9) Check the steering wheel lor excessive free play (more than an inchf (Chapter 11) Inspect and lubricate the exhaust manifold heat valve (Sec 22) Drain and replace the transfer 08se lubricant (neavy-duty operation) (Sec 29) Lubricate the F· and L·head engine distributor (Sec 34) Check and replace (il necessary) the air cleener 'ilter element (Sec 17) Inspect the distributor cap and rotor (Sec 33) Lubricate Ihe drivesha!t universal joints (Sec 71

Every 10 000 mile. or 10 month., whichever come. flnl Replace the automotic transmission fluid and filter Iheavy·duly operation (Sec 27) Inspect the brake linings and drums (Sec 31) Check Ihe emissions system air injection hoses (Chaptar 6f Replace the fuel IiIter (Sec 14) Check the radiator hoses for cracks and leaka (Sec 12) Check the shock ab.orberl, bushings and mounts for wear and damage (replace components as necessary) (Sec 10) lubricate the rear wheel bearings on early model CJ·2 with full · lIoating axleshahs (Chapter 11 )

1-13

Check the tightness of the cylinder head bOlts (Chapter 2) Drain and refill the transfer case (Sec 29) Lubricate the locking front hubs (Chapter 8) H.evy·duty Opeqitlon Heavy-duty operation i. defined as Off-fO ad operation 'lee below), extended idling, towing heavy trailers (2000 lb.), operating in dusty conditions or excellive .hon run use (6 to 8 mile trips constituting 30 percent of the vehicle'. use). Shaner maintenance intervals ara recommended In these Instances.

Off·road opel'atlon After driving off fOad through mud, sand or water, check the foUowlng daily: Bl1Jke discs and pads Bl1Jke drums tJnd shoes Brake lines and hoses Tl1Jnsmission, transfer case and differential oil Air filter Alia, lubricate the following daily or a. loon al practical: Steering linkll(le lind knuckles Driveshaft unfverslll joints

1

Every 15000 mile. or 15 months, whichev.r come. firat 4 Check and adjust the automatic transmission linkage (Chapter 7f lubricate all latches. hinges, seat tracks and 10ck cylinders (Chapter 12) Check and adjust, if necessary, the clutch pedal haight (Chapter S) Have Ihe front end alignment checked and adjusted as necessary Replace the spark plugs (Sec 32f Perform a minor or major tune·up as necessary (Sec 2) Check the choke linkage for free movement, lubricating as necessary (Sec 19f Inspect all vacuum hoses and connections (Sec 12 ) Inspect the ECS charcoal canister and replace the lilter, if so equipped (Sec 36) lubllcate the fronl wheel baarings (Chapter 11) Replace the distributor cam lubricator, if so equipped (Chapter 5) Check the EGA system (Sec ~3f Check the PCV valve and hoses (Sec 15) Check the Thermo·controlled Air Cleaner (TAC) system (Sec 1Sf Check the Transmission Controlled Spark (TCS) system (Chapter 6) Inspect the fuel system hoses, connections, fuel tank and cap ISec 13) Check and adjust. as necessary, the transler case shift linkage (Chapter 7)

Every 20 000 miles or 20 month •• whlchlllYer come. first Check the operation 01 the high·altitude compensation system, if so equipped (Chapter 41

E....ry 25 000 mUel or 25 months, whichever camel first Drain and retilt the automatic transmission (Sec 271 Replace ilil drivebelts (Sec 11) Drain and refill th e cooling system With the specilied coolant (Sec 391

Every 30 000 milu or 30 monthl, whlchlllY.r eomel first Drain and refill the differentials (Sec 301 Drain and reti!! the manual !ransmiSlion (Sec 28)

Fluid level chlMlu

There are a number 01 componentl on a vehicle which rely on the use of fluidl to perform their job. During the normal operation of the vehicle. the fluids are uled up and must be replenished before damage occurs. See the Reco~nd~ lubricllnts lind fluids Section at the lront of this Chapter for the specific fluid to be used when additions are reo quired. When checking lIuid levels It Is important to heve the vehIcle on a level surface.

Engine oil 2 The engine oil Javel is checked with a dipstick which I. located at the .ide of tha engine block. The dipstick extends through a lUbe and into the oil pan al tha bottom of tha engine. 3 Preferably, the all level should be checked before the vehicle has been driven, or about 15 minutes after the engine has been shut off. If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain In the upper engine componentl, resulting In an inac· curate reading on Ihe dipltick. 4 Pull the dipstick from the tube and wipe all the oil from the end with a clean reg (photo). Insert the clean dipltlck all the way back into the oil pan and pullt out again. Observe the 01 at the end 01 the dipstick. At its highest point, tha IlIIY8lshould be between the Add and Full markS (photoL 5 It takel approximately one III quart of ojl to raise the level from tha Add mark to the Full mark on the dipstick. 00 not allow the level to drop below the Add mark since engine damage due to oil starvation may result. On the other hand, do not overfill Ihe engine by adding ojl above the Fuft mark al o~·fouled spark plugl, o~ leaks or oil seal fduras may occur. 6 Oil is added to th. engine after removing a twisl-off cap located either on the rocker arm cover or e ra ised tube near the front 01 the engine. The cap Ihould be marked Engintl oN or lomething Ilmilar (photo). An 0;1 cen lpout or funnel will reduce .plill as the o~ is poured in. 7 Checking the 011 Javel can also be an important preventative maintenance lIep. If you lind the oilllllYel dropping abnormally, It I. an indication 01 oil leakage or Intamal engine wear, whiCh should ba cor· rected. If there are water dropletl in the oil, or If it is milky looking, thil also indicatee component failure tthe engine should be checked immediately), The condition of the all Ihould also be checked along with the level. With the dipllick removed Irom the engine. w ipe your thumb and index linger up the dipstick, looking for smatl dirt and metal partIcles, which will cling to the dipstick. Their presence is an Indica· tion that the oil should be c hanged (Sec 5).

1-14

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Engine coolant 8 Many vehicle •• re equipped with. pressurized coolant recovery system which make. coolant level checks very A clear or white

ee,.,..

coolant reservoir attached to the inner fender panel hi connected by It hose to the radiator neck. At the engine heat. up during operation, coolant i, IOfCed from the radi.etor through the connecting tube and into the felervalr. AI the engina cools, coolan! i, automatically drawn back into the radiator 10 maintain the correct level. 9 The coolant lev1tI,hould be checked when the engine Is cold. MereIV observe the level of fluid in the fe.ervoir. which should be al or near the Full cold mark on the ,Ide of the reservoir. If the Iystem i, completely cooled, ,1'0 check the level in the radiator by removing the cap.. Some systems also heve It Full hot mark to cneck tne level wnen tne engine is not. 10 If your particular venicle i. not aquipped witn a coolant recovery system, tna level snould be cnecked by removing tne radiator cap. Warning: The cap should not, undar any circumstances, ba remolllBd whita the system is hot as escaping steam could cause san"ous injury.

4.4A Witl'ldrawing tne 011 dipstick (VB engine snown)

Wait until tha angine has compf8taly coolad, then WftJp a thick cloth around the cap and tum it to its first stop. fI any steam escapes from tM caA tIIIow t"- engine to cool fUrTher, then remolo'l'l the cap and check the1eve1 in the ftJdietof. It should be ebout one inch below the bot· tom of the filfer neck (photoJ. 11 II only a small emount of coolant is required to bring Ine system up to tne proper level, regular waler can be used. However, to maintain tne proper antifraaze/water millture in tne system, both should be mi ..ed together to repleni.h e low level. High-quality antifreeze ollering protection to - 2O"F .hould be milled with water in tne proportion specified on tne container. Do not allow antifraeze to come in contact witi'! your skin or painted suriaces 01 the venicla.. Flusi'! conU!cted areas immedietely witn plenty of water. Caution: Antifreeze can be flltal to childrtln end pets. They like it because It is sweet. Just a few drops can cause death. Wipe up garage floor end drip pan coolant spills immedia tely. 12 On syatems with a recovery tank., coolant should be added to the reservoir aher removing the reservoir cap. Coolant should be added

4 .48 The level on the dipllick must be between the Add end Full marks (arrow.)

"J

4 .6 Remove the engine o~ filler cap by rotating it and lilting it away from the rocker erm cover (latar model in·line sillcylinder shownl

•

4 .10 Cnecklng tne coolant level in me radiator {in tnla ellample the level i. low)

4 .18 Removing tne cap. to check tne banery electrolyte level

4 . 24 Cnecklng tna brake master cylinder fluid level

4.43 Dana Model 300 transfer case filler plug location (arrow)

4.19 Carefully add distilled water to the benery cells to avoid splattering electrolyte

Fig . 1.8 Quadr.-Trac tran.fer ca •• fill and drain plugs ISec 4 and 291

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine m aintenance

1-1 5

directly to the radiator on systems without a coolant recovery tank. 13 As the coolant level is checked. note the condition of the coolant. It should be relatively clear. If it is brown or a rust color, tne system should be drained. flushed and refilled ISec 391. 14 If the cooling system reqUires repeated additions to maintain the proper level. nave tne radiator cap cnecked for proper sealing ability. Also. check for leaks in the system (crackad hoaes, loose hose connections. leaking gaskets. etc.) (Sec 12).

the proper level. it is an indication olleakege in the brake sy5lem which should be corrected immediately. Check all brake ~nes and connections. along with the wheel cylinders and booster Isee Chapter 9 for more informetionl. 29 If upon checking the mester cylinder fluid level you discover one or both reservoirs empty or nearly empty. the system should be bled (Chapter 91. When tne fluid level gelS low, air can enter the system and should be removed by bleeding the brakes.

Windshield washer fluid

Manual transmission lubricant

15 Tne flukl for tne windshield wnner system Is located in s plastic reservoir_ TheJ.eve1 inside the reservoir should be mainteined st the Full mark. 16 A good quality washer solvent should be added to the reservoir whenever replenishing is required. Do not u.e plain water alone in thi. -vltem, e.pecially in cold climates wnara tne water could freezl.

30 Manuel transmissions do not heve • dip5tick. The oil level is checked by removing a plug in the aide of the transmission case.lDcate the plug and use a reg to clean the plug and the area around It. 31 With the engine cold, remove the plug. If oil immediately stans leaking out, thread the plug back Into the transmission becllusa Ine levell. all right. If there is no oil flow. completely remove the plug and place your little finger inskle the hole. The oil level should be just at the bottom of the plug hole. 32 If the transmission requires more oil. usa a syringe 10 squeeze Ihe eppropriate lubricant into the plug hole to bring the oil up to the proper level. 33 Thread Ihe plug beck into the transmillion and tighlen it secureIy. Drive the vehicle and check for leaks around the plug.

Battery electrolyte Nota: There are certain precautions to be taken when working on or near the battery: al never exposa a battery to open flame or sparks which could Ignite the hydrogen gas gillfJn off by tha betteIY; bl wear protective clothing end eye protection to ~uce tha possibility of the corrosiWJ suffuric acid solution inside the battery harming you (if tha fluid is splashed or spilled, flush the contacted area immediately with plenty of weter); cl fllmolll!l' ell metal jewelry which could contact the positive termina/and enother grounded mete/ source, causing a short circuit; dJ a/ways keep batteri8s and bsttery acid out of the ffllJCh of children. 17 Venicles equipped witn maintenance-hee battaries require no maintenance because tne b8ttery case is sealed and nas no removeable caps for adding water_ 18 If a maintenance-type battery is installed, tna caps on tne top of ma battery should be removed periodically to cneck for a low electrolyte level (photo). This cneck will be more critical during tne warm summer montns. 19 Remova eacn of Ihe caps and add distilled waler to bring tne level 01 each cell 10 Ine split ring in the liller opening Ipnotol. 20 Allhe same lime the battery electrolyte level is Checked. the overall condition of the battery and its releted components should be inspected. II corrosion is present on the cable endS or battery terminels, remove the cebles and clean away all corrosion using a baking soda/watel' solution or a wire brush cleaning tool designed for this purpose. See Section 38 for complete battery cere and servicing procedures.

Brake fluid 21 The brake master cylinder is ~ocated on the leh side of the engine compertment firewilll and nes a cap which must be removed to check tne fluid level. 22 Before removing the cap, use a rag to clean all dirt, grease, etc. from around the cap area. If any foreign metter enters the master cylinder with the cap removed. blockage of the brake system lines can occur. Also. make sure all painted surfaces around the master cylinder are covered, as brake fluid will ruin paint. 23 Release the cliplsl securing Ihe cap to Ihe top of the master cylinder. In most cases, a screwdriver can be used to pry the wire clip(s ) free. 24 Carefully lift the cap ott the cylinder and note the flukllevel (photol. h snould be approximately 1/ 4-lnch below the top edge of each reser voir (photo). 25 If additional fluid is necessary to bring Ine level up to the proper height. carefully pour the specified brake fluid Into the mester cylinder. Be careful not to spill the fluid on painted surfeces. Be sure the specified fluid is used. es mixing different types of breke fluid can cause damllge to the system. See Recommended lubricants and fluids or your owner's manual. 28 At th is lime tne fluid ilnd mlllter cy~nder can be inspected for contaminatIOn. Normally. me hydraulic system wI. not require periodic draining and refilling. bot if rust depoSits. dirt panicles or weter droplets .re seen in Ihe fluid. the system should be drained lind refilled with fresh fluid . 27 Reinstell the master cylinder cap end secure it with the cliplsl. Make sure the cap is properly seated to prevent flukl loss. 28 The breke fluid level in the master cylinder will drop slightly as the brake shoes or pads at lIilch wheel wear down during normal operation. If the mlllter cylinder requires repeated replenishing to keep it at

Automatic transmission fluid 34 The fluid inside the tfansmillion must be at normal operating tempereture to get en accurale reading on the dipstick. This is done by driving the vehicle for severe! miles. making frequent sterts and stops to allow the transmission to shih through all gears. 35 Park the vehicle on a level surface. place Ihe selector in Park and leave Ihe engine running al an idle. 36 Remove the transmission dipstick and wipe all tne fluid from tha end with a clean rag. 37 PUSh the dipstick back into the transmillion until the cap seetl firmly on tne dipstick tuba. Now relTlOlle the dipstick egain and observe the fluid on the end. The highest point 01 fluklshould be between the Full mark and 14 -inch below the Full mark. 38 11 the fluid level is at or below the Add mark on tne dipstick, add sufficient fluid to raise the level to the Full mark. One pint of lIuid will raise the level from Add to FuU. Fluklshoolcl be added directly Into the dipstick guide tube, using a funnel to prevent spills. 39 It Is important that the transm lllion 's not overfilled. Under no circumstances shoukl the fluId level be above the Full mark on the dipstick, as this could cause tntemll damage to tne transmission. The best wey to prevent overfilling Is to add lIuld a little at a time. driving the vehicle and checking the level between additions. 40 Use only trensmlssion lIuid specified by the manufacturer. This Information can be found in Ihe RlICOmmended lubricants lind fluids Section. 41 The condition of the fluklshould also be checked along with the level. If the fluid at the end of the dipltick is e dark reddish-brown col O!', or if it hes a 'bumt' smell. Ihe fluid should bl changed. " you are in doubt about the condition of the fluid. purchllse lOme new fluid and compare the two for color and smell.

Transfer case lubdcant 42 The Iransfer case lubricant level ahould be checked at the same time es the manual transmission and differentials. 43 Remove the filler plug and delermlne whether or not Ihe lubricant level Is even with the bottom of the filler hole (photo). On Cuadra-Trec transfer cases with reduction units. the reduction units nave a seperete lubricant supply which must be checked also.. 44 Fill the transfer case and, if so equipped, the reduction unit to tne proper level with the specified lubricant. Replace the filler plugs, drive the vehicle and check for leaks.

Differential lubricant 45 Uke the manual transmission and transfer case. lhe front and rear differentials have an inspection and fill plug whICh must be removed to check the level. 46 Remove the plug. which is located either 'n the removable cover plete or on the skle of the ditterential carrier. Use your linle finger to reacn Inside the nousing to feel tha level of the oii. It should be at the bottom of Ine plug nole (photos). 47 If such Is not Ihe case, add the proper lubricant to the cerrier

1

1-16

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

TvpiCal .xla differential fill plug

4 .46A (arrow)

4.468 Some models nllve the fm plug (arrow) in the removable differential

4 . 54 Checking the power steering pump fluid level

cover through the plug hole. A syringe or a ameli funnel can be used for this. 48 Make certain the correct lubricant is used, 8S regular and TreklDk rear axles require different lubricants. A Trak-l.ok ule with the wrong lubricant will make 8 ehsnarlng noile and must be drained and refilled with the proper lubricant. • 49 TIghten the plug securely and check for leaks after the first few miles of drilling.

REDUCTION UN IT FILL HOLE PLUG

Power steering fluid TRANSFER CASE ORAtN PLUG

REOUCTION UNIT HOUSING BOLT CHAIN TENSION INSPECTION PLUG

Fig. 1.9

Ouadtll- Trac with reduction unit ISec 4 and 29)

50 Unlike manual steering. the power sleering system reliel on fluid which may, Oller a period 01 time, require replenishing . 51 The reservoir for the power steering pump will be located near Ihe front of the engine, and cen be mounted on either the leh or right side. 52 The power steering fluid level should be checked only after the lIehicle hes been driven, with the fluid et operating temperature. The front wheets should be pointed straight ahead. 53 With the engineJlhut off, use a rag to clean the feservoir cap and the areas around the cap. This will help prellent foreign material hom failing into the reservoir when the cap is removed. 54 Twist ott the reservo ir cap. which has a built-in dipstick a!lached to h. Pull off the cap and remove the fluid at the bottom of the dipstick wllh a clean rag . Now relnstaU the dipstick/cap assembly to get a fluid level reading. Remove the dlpsticklcap and note the lIuid level. It should be at the Full hot mark on the dipstick (photo). 55 If additional fluid is required, pour the specified type directly in· to the reservoir using a funnel to prellent spills. 56 If the reservoir requires frequent fluid additions. ell power steering hoses, hose connections, the power steering pump and Ihe steering 00)( should be checked carefully for leeks.

5

5.3

Tvpical oil change toots

I

Or.in pan

2 Funnel 3 Oil can spout .,

Rubber glove's)

5

Filter wrench

6 ell" O/Hntllf 7 hake, be' 8 Socket (6-point)

Engine 011 and filter change

Frequent oil changes may be the besl lonn of preventalive maintenance 8Vailable to the home mechanic. When engine oil is old. it gets diluted end conteminated, which ultimately leeds to premature engine wear. 2 Although some sources recommend oil filter changes every othar oil change, we feel that the minimal coat of an oil lilter and the relative aase with which it is installed dictate that a new fllter be used whenever Ihe oil Is changed. 3 The tools necessary for a normal 011 and filter change ere a wrench to tit the drain plug al the bottom of the oil pan, an oil filter wrench to remove the old filter, a container with a sl)(-quart capacity to drain the old oil into and a funnel Of 011 can spout to help pour fresh oil into the engine (photo). 4 In addition, you should hlrlle plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy to mop up any spills. Access to the underside of the vehicle is greatly improved if it can be lifted on a hoist. driven onto ramps Of sup· ported by jackstands. Ceutlon: Do nOt work under a Vf!Ihicle which is supported only by e bumper, hydraulic or scissors-type jeck. 5 If this is your first oil chenge on Ihe lIehicle, it is a good Idea to crawl underneath and famlliarlza yourself with the locetione of the oil

Chapter 1

5.9 Typical oil drain plug location (arrow)

Tune~up

and routine maintenance

5.20 The oil liltar should be handtighrttMd only

drain plug and the olifilllr. Since the engine and eKhaust components will be warm during the actual work, it is a good idea to figure out any potential problems before the engine and eKhauS! pipes are hot. 6 Allow the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature. If new oil or any tools are needad, use the werm-up time to locate everything necessary for the job. The correct type of oil to buy for your application can be lound in Recommended lubricllnrs lind fluids near the front of this Chapter. 7 With the engine oil warm (warm engine oil will drain bener and more built-up sludge will be removed with the oill, raise the vehicle for access beneath it. Make sure the vehicle il firmly supported. If jackstands ere used, they should be placed toward the front of the frame railS which run the length of the vehicle. 8 Move all necesSlry toOll, rags end newspapers under the vehicle. Position the drein pan under the drain plug. Keep in mind that the oil will initially flow from the pan with some force, so posi tion the pan eccordingly. 9 Use the wrench to remove the drain plug near the bottom of the oil pan but be careful not to touch eny of I he hot exhaust pipe componan ... Depending on how hot the oil hes become, you may want to wear gloves while unacrewlng the plug Ihe finel few turns (photo). 10 Allow the old 0" to drain into the pan. h may be necessary to move the pan farther under the engine as the oil flow reduces to a trickle.. 11 After all the oil has drained, clean the drain plug thoroughly with a clean reg. Small metal particles may cfing to the plug and immediataly • contaminate the new oil. 12 Clean the erea around the drain plug opening and reinslall the plug. Tighten It securely. 13 Move the drain pan into position under the oil filter. 14 Now use the lilter wranch to loosen the oil filter. Chain or metal bend-type filter wrenches may distort the filter can iller. but don't worry about it because the filter will be discarded. 15 Sometimes the oil filter is on so light it cannot be loosened, or it is positioned in an araa which IS inaccessible with a filter wrench. As a lall reson, you can punch a metel bar or long screwdriver directly through the bonom of the canister and use it as a T·bar to turn the filter. If this must be done, be prepared for oil to spurt out of the canister as it is punctured. 16 Completely unscrew the old filter. Be careful. It is full of oiL EmpIy the old oil inside the filter into the drain pan. n Compare the old liltar with the new one to make sure they ara the same type. 18 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the area where the oit filter mounts to the engine. Check the old filter to make sure the rubber gasket is not stuck to the engine mounting surface. If the gasket is stuck to the engine (use a flashlight to checkl. remove It. 19 Open one of the cans of new oil and fill the new filter about half full of oil. Also apply a light coet of fresh oil 10 the rubber gasket of the new oil filter. 20 Auach the new filter to the engine following the tightening direc tions printed on the filter canister or packing Dox (photo). Most filter manufaclurers I&commend against using a filter wrench due to the possibility 01 ovartightaning and damaging the canister. 21 Remove all tools. rags, etc. from under the vehicle. being careful not to spill the oil in the dlain pan. lower the vehicle.

1-17

5.24 Pouring 011 into the filler opening (V8 engine shown)

22 Move to the engine compartment and locate the oil filler ca p on the engine. In most cases there will be a screw-off cap on the rocker arm cover or a cap at the end of a fill tube at the Itont of the eng.ne. In any case, the cap will most likely be labeled Engine 011 or something similar. 23 If an oil can spout is used, push the spout into the top of the oil can and pour the fresh oil through tha filler opening. A funnel placed in t he opening may also be used. 24 Pour aDout threa (3) quarts of I resh 011 Into the engine (pho to). Wait a lew minutes to allow the oil to drain to the pan, then check the level on the oil dipstick (lie Sec 4 if necessary). 11 the oil level is above the Add mark, start the engine and allow the new oil to cirCUlate. 25 Aun the engine for only aDout a m inute and then shut it off. Immediately look under the vehicle and check for leaks at the oil pan drain plug and around the o~ filter. If either is leaking, tighten w ith a bit mOle force. 26 With the new 011 circulated and the filter now co mpletely full, recheCk the level and add enough oil to bring the level to the Full mark on the dipstick. 27 During the first few trips aher an oil change. make it a POint to check frequently for leaks and correct oil level. 26 The old oil drained from the engine cannot be reused In Its prasent state and should be disposed of. Oil reclamalion centers, auto repair shops and gas stations wiH noml8lly aocapt the oil, which can be relined and used again. Afler the oil has cooled, it can be drained into a SUitable container (capped plastic jugs, topped bottles, milk cartons, etc.! for transportation to a disposal site.

e

llre and tlr. pressure checks

Periodically inspecting the tires may not only prevent you from baing stranded with a flat ti.... but can also give you clues as to possi· ble problems with the steering and suspension systems before major damage occurs. 2 Proper tire inflation edds miles to the lifespan of the mes, allows the vehicle to achieve maximum miles per gallon flgutes and contributes to overall ride quality. 3 When inspecting the tires, first check the wear of the treed. Ir· regularities in the tread pattern Icupping, flet spots, more wear on one side than tha other) are indications of front end alignment and/or balance problems. If any 01 thele conditions are noted, take the vehicle to a reputable repair shop to correct the problem. 4 Also check the tread area for cuts and puncture s.. Many times a nail or tac k will embed Itself into the tire tread end yet the tire will hold its air pressure for a short tithe. In most casas, e repair shop or gas station can repelr the punctured tire. 5 It is also importent to check the sidewslls of the tires, both InSIde and outside. Check for deteriorated rubber, CUll, and punctures A lso inspect the inboard side 01 the tire for ligns of brake fluid leakage. in· dicating that a thorough brake inspection is needed immediately. 6 Incorrect tire pressure cannot be determined merely by looking at the tire. This Is especially true for radial tires. A tire pressure gauge must be used. If you do not already have a reliable gauge. it il a good

1

1-18

6.8

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

The tire pressure placard is located on the glovebox door

idea to purchase one end keep it in the glove box. Built-in pressure gauges at gas stations are often unreliable. 7 Always chec;k tire inflation when the tires are cold. Cold, in this case. means Ihe vehicle has not boon driven more than one mile after sitting for three houl'8 or mora It is normal for the pressure to increase 4 to B pounds or more when the tires are hot. 8 Unscrew the valve cap protruding from the wheel or hubcap and firmly press the gauge onto the valve stem. Observe the reading on the gauge and compare the figure to the recommended tire pressure listed on the tire placard. The tire placard is usually attached to the glove bOl( door {photo). 9 Check all tiras and add air as necessary to bring them up to the recommended pressure levals. Do not forgat the spere tire. Be sura to reinstall the valva caps (which will koop dirt and moisture out of the valva stem mechanism).

7.1

Tools required for chassis lubrication , 2

3 4

Grease gun end flexibla nozzle Grease cartridge Multi-purpose spray lubricant Oil can

7 Challl, lubrlcetion A grease gun and a cartridge filled with the propar grease (see Recommended lubricants and fluids) are necessary to lubricate most chassis components (photo). 2 Using the accompanying illustrations, locata the various greasa fitings (photo). 3 For easier access under the vehicle, raise it with a jack and place jackstands under the frame. Make sure the vehicle Is firmly supported by the stends. 4 Before proceeding, force II little of the grease out of the nozzle to remove IIny dirt from the end of the gun. Wipe the nozzle clean with a rag. S Wipe tha grease fitting clean and push tha grease gun nozzle firmly over it. Squeeze the trigger on the greasa gun to force grease into the component. The tie-rods and balljoints should be lubricated until the rubber reservoir is firm to the touch. 00 not pump too much grease into the fittings as it could rupture the reservoir. II the grellse seeps out around the grease gun nozzle. the fitting is clog gad or the nozzle is not fully seated on the fitting. Resecure the gun nozzle to the fitting and try again. If necessary, replace the litting with a new one. 6 Wipe any e:o:cess grease from the components and the grease fitting. 7 Early models feature different types of rear wheel bearing lubricstion. On models with grease fittings. carefully lubricllte the fitting with wheel bearing grease until the grease flows from the vent opening. Make sure this vent is kept open or the grease will eventually bac~ up onto the brake shoes. On models without grease fittings. it will be necessary to remove the reer wheel bearings and lubricete them as described in Chapter 8. 8 On later models, the clutch lever shaft should be carefully lubricated using chassis grease (photo). 9 While you ere under the vehicle. clean and lubricate the brake cable. 10 Lower tha vehicle to the ground for the remaining lubricetion procedures. 11 Open the hood and smur a little chassis grease on the Illtch mechanism.

LUBRICANT

Fig . 1.10 Manuallteering gear lubrication check (Sec 7)

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenan ce

7.2

Steering erm grease titting location (arrow!

7.8

1-19

Clut ch lever shaft grease fitting location (arrow(

1

8.4 Squeezing the radiator hose to check for crecks and deterioration

9 .2 Check the area around the exhaust pipe connections (arrow( lor cracks and evidence of leaks

12 Remove the bolt opposite the steering gear adjuster and check the lubricant level. " it is not even with the bottom of the bolt hole, add chassis lubricant to the proper level and replace the bolt. 13 Lubricate all hinges (door, glove box door, hood and lift gate! with light engine oil, multi-purpose oil or spray lubricant, which is available at auto pans stores. 14 Finally, the key lock cylinders should be lubricated with spray graphite or silicone. also available at auto parts stores.

cooling system will usually show up as white or rust colored deposits on the areas adjoining the leak. 8 Use compressed air or a soft brush to remove bugs, le.ves. etc. from the front of the radiator or air-conditioning condenser. Be careful not to damage the delicate cooling fins or cut yourself on them. 7 Finally, have tha cap end system pressure tested. If you do not have a pressure tester. most gas stations and repair shops will do this for a minimal charge.

8

Cooling .y.tem check

Many major engine failures can be attributed to a faulty cooling system. Illhe vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, the cooling system also plays an imponant role in prolonging transmission life. 2 The cooling system should be checked with the engine cold. Do this before the vehicle is driven for the day or .her il has been shut off for at leastlhree hours. 3 Remove the radiator cap and thoroughly cleen the cap (inside and out) with clean water. Also clean the tiller neck on the radiator. All traces 01 cOlrosion should be removed . 4 Carelully check the upper and lower radiator hoses elong With the smaller diameter heater hoses. Inspect each hose along its entire length. replacing any hose which is cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration (photo!. 5 Also make sure that all hose connections ere tight. A leak in the

With the engine cold (at least three hours after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from its starting point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe. This should be done on a hoist whera unrestricted access is available. 2 Chack the pipes and connections for signs of leakage and/or corrosion indicating a potential failure. Make sure that all brackets and hangers are tight and in good condition (photo!. 3 At the same time. inspect the underside of Ihe body for holes. corrosion, open seam •• etc. which may allow exhaust ga$8s to enter the passenger compartment. Seal ell body openings with silicone or body putty. 4 Rattles and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system. especially t he mounts and hangers. Try to move the pipes. muffler and catalytic converter (if so equipped). If the components come into contact with the body or drivellne parts. secure the exhausl system with

1-20

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance REPLACE FILTER'\,. ~ASKET

~~\I»LVJ~ CARBURETOR

, 1.3

Twist the drivebelt to check the

underside " rrow l for cracks and deterioration

14 .5 Removing the fuel filter screwtype clamp with a screwdriver tin-line

six-cylinde r engine shownl

new mounts. 5 This is also an ideal time to check the funning condition of the engine by Inspecting inside the very end of the teilpipe. The exhaust deposits here are an indication of engine state-aI-tune. If the pipe is black and sooty or coated with white deposits, the anglne is in need of 8 tune-up !including 8 thorough carburetor inspection and adjustment).

10 Su,penllon and ,teerlng che<:k Whenever the front of the vehicle is faised for service. it is a good idea to visU!llly check the suspension and steering components for wear. 2 Indications of II fault in these syltems are excessive play in the steering wheel before the front wheels react, excessive sway around comers, body movement over rough roads or binding at some point IiIS the steering wheel is turned. 3 Before the vehicle Is raised for inspection, test the shock absorbers by pushing down to rock the vehicle at each comer. If you push the vehicle down and it does not come back to a level position Within one or two bounces, the shocks are worn end must be replaced. As this is dona check for SQueaks and strenge noises from the suspension components. Information on shock absorber end suspension components can be found in Chapter 11. 4 Now raise the front end of the vehicle and suppon it firmly on jackstands placed under the fl1lme l1Ii1s. Because of the work to be done. make sure the vehicle cannot fall from the stands. S Grab the top and bottom of the front tire with your hands and rock the tire/wheel on the spindle. If there is movement of more than O.OOS-inch, the wheel besrings should be serviced (see Chepter 111. 6 Crawl under the vehicle end check for loose bolts, broken or disconnected parts end deteriorated rubber bushings on all suspen sion and steering components. Look for grease or fluid leaking from around the steering box. Check the power steering hoses and connections for leaks. Check the balljoints for wear. 7 Have an assistant turn the steering wheel from slde-to-side and check the steering components for free movement, chafing and binding. If the steering does not react with the movemant o f the steering wheel. try to datermine where the slack is located.

11

FUEL LINE

Drlvebelt check end edjullment

The drivebelts, or V-belts as they are sometimes called, are located at the front of the engine and play an imponant role in the overall operation of the vehicle and its components. Due to their function and material make-up, the belts are prone to failure after a period of time and should be Inspected and adjusted periodically 10 prevent major eng Ina damage. 2 The number of belts used on a psnicular vehicle depends on the accessories installed. Drivebelts are used to turn the generatorfalternator, smog pump, power steering pump, wllter pump. flln and air conditioning compressor. A single bell mey be used for more than one of these co mponents and the wide ribbed serpentine belt is used for all

FIg.l .11

Csrburetor mounted fuel filter exploded view {Sec 141

of them. 3 With the engine off, open the hood end locate the various belts at the front of the engine. Using your fingers (and a flashlight if necessary), move along the belts checking for cracks and separation of the belt plies. Also check lor fraying and glazing, which gives the belt a shiny appearance. Both sides of the belts should be inspected, which means you will have to twist the belt to check the underside (photol. 4 The tension of each belt is checked by pushing on the belt at a distance halfway between the pulleys. A special tension gauge is required to check the serpentine belt. On standard belts, push firmly with your thumb and see how much the belt moves down (deflects). Generally, if the distance (pulley center-to-puttey center) Is between 7 and 11 inches, the belt should deflect % -inch. If the belt is longer and travels between pulleys spaced 12 to 16 inches apart, the belt should deflect Yo-inch. On the serpentine belt, the gauge should read between 180 and 200 Ibs on a new belt and 140 and 160 Ibs on a used bell. S If it is necessary to adjust the belt tension, either to make the belt tighter or looser, it is done by moving the belt-driven accessory on the bracket. 6 For each component there will be an adjustment or strap bolt and a pivot bolt. Both bolts must be loosened slightly to enable you to move the component. 7 After the two bolts have been loosened, move the component away from the engine (to tighten the beltl or toward tha engine (to loosen the beltl. Hold the accessory in position and check tha belt tansion. If it is correct, tighten the t wo bolts until snug. then recheck the tension. If it is all right, tighten the two bolts completely. 8 If it is necessary to use a pry bar to move the accessory while tile belt is adjusted, be very careful not to damage the componant being moved or the part being pried against.

12

Underhood hoaas - check end replacement

Caution: Replacement of air-conditioner hoses should be left to a deafer or air-conditioning specialist who can depressurize the system and perform the work safely. The high temptlratures present under tha hood can cause deterioration of tha numerous rubber and plastic hoses. 2 Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps and leaks because some of the hoses are pan of the emission control system and can affect the engine's parformance. 3 Remove the air cleaner if necessary and trace the entire length of each hose. Squeeze each hose to check for cracks and look fOf swelling, discoloration and leaks. 4 If the vehicle has considereble mileage or if one or more of the hoses is suspect, it is a good idea to replace all of the hoses at one time. S Measure the length and inside diameter of each hose and obtain and cut the replacement to size. Since original equipment hose clamps ara often good for only one or two uses, it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps.

1·21

Chapter 1 Tune- up and routine maintenance

V8 FOUR·CYLINDER Fig. 1.12 1971 th ro ugh 1986 m odel engine PCVvalve loca tions (Sec 15) 6 Replace each hose one at a time to eliminate the possibility of confus ion. Hoses attached to the heater and radiator contain coolant, so newspapers or rags should be kept handy to catch the spills when they are disconnected. 7 Alter installation, run the engine until it reaches operating temperature. shut it off and check for leaks. After the engine has cool· ed. retighten all of the screw·type clamps.

13

Fuel system check

Caution: There are certain precautions to take when inspecting or ser' vicing the fuel sysrem components. Work in a well·venti/ated area and do not allow opan flames /cigamtte$, appliance pifot fights, etc.) to get near the work urea. Mop up spills immediately and do not store fuel· soaked (ags where they could ignite. 1 The fuel system is under a small amount of pressure, so if any fuel lines are disconnected for servicing. be prepared to catch the fuel as it spurts out. ~ug all disconnected fuel lines immediately after discon· nection to preyent Ihe tank Irom emptying itself. 2 The fuel system is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist where the components underneath are readily yisible and accessible. 3 If the smell of gasoline is noticed while driying. or after the yehi· cle has been in the sun. the system should be thoroughly inspected immediately. 4 Remoye the gas liller cap and check for damage, co rrosion and a proper sealing imprint on the gasket. Replace Ihe cap with a new one if necessary. 5 With the vehicle raised . inspect the gas tank and filler neck for punctures. cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and the tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck will leak due to loose clamps or deteriorated rubber; problems a home mechanic can usually rectify. Caution: Do not. under any cirrumstances. try to repair a fuel tenk youself (except rubber components) unless you have considerable experience. A welding torrh or any open flama can easily cause the fuel vapors to explode if the proper precautions are not teken. 6 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check lor loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped linas and other damage. Follow the lines up to the Iront of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them 1111 the way. Repair or replace damaged sec· tions as necessary. 7 If a fuel odor is slill evident after the inspection. refer to Sec· tion 36 on the evaporative emissions system.

14

Fuel filter replacement

Caution: G8soline is extremely flemmable so extra safety precautions must be observed when working on eny pert of the fuel system. Do not smoke end do not allow bare light bulbs or open flemes near the vehicle. Also, do not perform this meintenance procedue in a gerage if a natural gas·type water hearer or dryer is locared in the gerage. These models use a variety of fuel·filters. Earlier model F· and L· head four-cylinder engines use e non· replaceable filter screen located in the fuel pump bowl. Tha screen and bowl should be removed and

thoroughly cleaned at the recommended intervals. Later models are equipped with replaceable filters located In the fuel line. The 151 cubic inch four·cylinder and the V6 engine haye screw·in type filters located at the carburetor. 2 This job should be done with the engine cold (efter sitting for at least three hours!. The necessary tools are pliers for the in·line fi lter or open·end wrenches to fit the fuel line nuts of the screw· in type filte" Flare·nut wrenches which wrap around the nut should be used if available. In addition, you will have to obtain a replacement filter (make sure it is correct for your specific vllhlcle and engine) and some clean rags . 3 Remove the air cleaner assembly. If Yacuum hoses must be discon· nected. make sure you note their positions and/or tag them to help during installation. 4 Place some rags under the filter to catch any spilled fuel.

In-line filter 5 Remove the retaining clips or screw·type clamps from the fuel lines and pull the filter f ree (photo!. 6 Install the new fifter in the same position as the old one and push the fuel hoses into place, securing them with the clips or clamps. Later models have a breather fitting and hose which is part of the ECs system; it must be at the top.

Screw-in t ype filter 7 With the proper size wrench. hold the nut ne)[t to the carburetor body. Now loosen the nut fitting and the end of the metal fuel line . A flare· nut wrenc h on this fitting will prevent slipping and possible damage. However, an open·end wrench should do the job. Make sure the larger nut ne)[t to the carbu retor is held firmly while the fuel line is disconnected. 8 With the fuel line disconnected, mOye it to t he side slightly for better access to the inlet filter nut. Do not crimp the fue/line. S Now unscrew the fuel inlet filter nut which was previously held steady . As this fitting is drawn away from the carburetor body. be care ful not to lose the thin washer· type gasket or the spring located behind the fuel l ilter. Also. pay close attention to how the filter was installed. 10 Compare the old filter with the new one 10 make sure they are of the same length and design. 11 Reinstall the spring in the carbu retor body, after inspecting it for damage and defects. 12 Place the new fifter Into position behind the spring. 13 Install a new washer·type gasket on the fuel inlet filter nul {e new gasket is usually supplied with the new fil ter) and tighten the nut in Ihe carburetor. Make sure it is not cross·threaded or oyer-tightened as fuel leaks could result. 14 On all models. reinstall the air cleaner assembly and return all hoses to their original positions. Start the engine and cheCk for fuel leaks.

15

Po. itlve Crankc8la Ventilation (PCVI val va replacement

The PCV valve is located in thll rocker arm cover on in·line and V6 engines and in the intake manifold on va engines. A nose connected to the valve runs to either the ca rbure tor or intake manifold. 2 When purchasing a replacement PCV valve. make sure it is lor your

1

1-22

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Fig. 1 .14 V6 engine all beth air clea ner co mponents - exploded vie w ISec 16)

Fig . 1.13 F- and l ·h. ad e ngine oR bl th air cl18ner compone nts - exploded vie w (Sec 161 1 Hom 2 Flexible connector 3 Hose clamp

4 Carburetor vent tubfl

7 Clamp 8 Oil cup 9 Clamp 70 Hose

5 Body 6 Screw end lock washer

"

Clamp

6 Breather 7 Clamp 8 Vent tube

9 Ai, pump hose

12 Gasket

particular vehicle. model year and engine si:le. 3 Pull the valve [with the hose attached) from the rubber grommet in the rocker orm covaf or manifold. 4 Lnosen the retaining clamp end pull the PCV valve from the end of the hose, noting ils installed position end direction. 5 Compare the old valve with the new one to make sure they are the same. 6 Push the new valve into the end of the hose until it is fully seated and reinstall the clamp. 7 Inspect the rubber grommet for damage end replece it with 1'1 new one, if faulty. a Push the PCV valve and hose securely into position. 9 More information on the PCV system can be found in Chapter 6 .

16

1 Wing nut 2 Cover 3 Rubber gasket 4 Cork gesket 5 Oil cap

V6 engine 7 Remove the wing nut at the top of the carburetor and lift the air cleaner assembly off. a Remove the oil cup and pour the old oil into a suitsble contain8l. 9 Wash the cup and filter element thoroughly with solvent and dry with compressed air or clean, lint-free cloths. The filter element must be dry after cleaning, with no solvent residue or oil. 10 Check the air cleaner assembly hoses. clamps and connections, replacing defective or damaged parts as necessary. 11 Fill the oil cup with clean oil (S AE 40 or 50 weight in warm weather and SAE 20 in cold weather) and install it in the filter element, making sure the gasket is in position. 12 Attach the air cleaner assembly and gasket to the carburetor, securing it With the wing nut.

Oil bath -type air cleaner servlca 17

Early model F- and L-head and V6 engines are equipped with oil bath-type air cleaners. They must be drained, cleaned and refilled at the specified intervals.

F- and L-head engines 2 Remove the retaining bolt and lift the oil cup from the body of the air cleaner assembly. 3 Pour the oil into a suitable container and wash the cup tl'loroughly with solvent. 4 Detach the breather hose, remove the two wing nut screws and lift the air cleaner assembly from the engine. Wash the assembly thoroughly with solvent, panicular1y in the area of the filtering element. Dry the assembly with clean, lint-free cloths or compressad air. 5 Reinstall the air cleanar assembly. 6 Fill the oil cup with clean engine oil, using SAE 40 or 50 weight in warm weather and SAE 20 in cold weather . Install the oil cup in the air cleaner assembly.

Air filter and PCV filter replac ement

At the specified intervals, the air filter and PCV Iilter should be replaced with new ones. A thorough program of preventative maintenance would call lor the two filters to be Inspected be t ween changes. 2 The air lilter is located inside the air cleaner housing on the top of the engine. The lilter is generally replaced by removing the wing nut at the top 01 the air cleaner assembly and lifting off the top plate. If vacuum hoses are connected to the plate. note their positions and disconnect them. 3 While the top plate is off. be careful not to drop anything down into the carburator. 4 Lift the air filte r alement out 01 the housing (photo). 5 To check the filter, hold it up to strong sunlight. or place 1'1 flashlight or droplight on the inside of the filte r. On filters with a foam cover. first remove the cover. If you can see light coming through the paper ele ment. the filter is 1'111 right. Check all the way around the filter.

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

T7.4 Lifting the air Iilter element from the housing

17.11 Using a screwdriver to remove the PCV filter element Uater model in·line six-cylinder engine shown)

1S

FOUR- and SIX--cYLINDER

OIL FILLER CAP

FlLTeR~

•

1-23

19.3 Typical carburetor choke plate location larrow)

Thermo-controlled A ir Cluner (TAC) check

Leter models are equipped with a thermostatically controlled air cleaner which draws air to the carburetor from different locetions depending upon engine tempereture. 2 This is a simple visuel check; however, il access is tight, a small mirror may have to be used. 3 Open the hood and locate the baffle inside the air cleaner assembly. It will be located inside the long snorkel of the metal air cleaner hous· ing. Make sure that the flexible air hosels) are securely attachad and undamaged. 4 If there is a flexible air duct altached to the and of the snorkal leading to an area behind the grille. disconnect it at the snorkel. This will enable you to lOOk through the end 01 the snorkel and see the baflie inside. 5 The check should be done when the engine and outside ail are cold. Start the engine and look through the snorkel at the baffle. which should move to a closed position. With the ballte closed. ail cannot enter through the end of the snorkel, but instaad enters the air cleaner through the flexible duct altached 10 the exhaust manifold. 6 As the engine warms up to operating temperature, the baffle should open to allow air through the snorkel end. Oepending on ambient temperature. this may take 10 to 15 minutes. To speed up this cheCk you can reconnect the snorkel air duct, drive the vehicle and then check to see il the baffle is completely open. 7 If the thermo-controlled air cleaner is not operating propert y. see Chilpter 6 lor more information.

OIL FILLER CAP FILTER Ivai Fig_ 1_15

Typk:al PCV air filter Installation ISec 171

6 Wipe out the inside of the air cleene r housing with a clean rag. 7 On new filter elements with removable loam covers, remove the cover, soak it in clean engine 011. wring it out and install it on the ele· ment. If the element is being reused. first wash the cover thoroughl y in solvent and squeeze it dry. S Place the old filter lif in good conditionl or the new filter lif the specilied interval has elapsed) back into the air cleaner housing. Make sure it seats properly in the bottom of the housing. 9 Connect eny disconnected vacuum hoses to the top plate and reinstall the plate. 10 On later models, the PCV filter is located inside the air clecmer housing or in the oil filler cap. Remove the top plate as described previously and locate the liltar on the side 01 the housing or remove the filler cap. n Remove the filter element from the reteiner or filler cap Iphotol. 12 Wash the filter element thoroughly with kerosene or solvent and reinstall it. On some filler caps, the element is not removable and Ihe assembly should be cle(lned by blowing compressed air through the filter tube opaning lin the reverse direction of normal air flow) in the cap. If the element is badly clogged or contaminated, replace the complete cep assembly with a new one.

'9

Carburetor choke check lIate models only)

The choke only operates when the engine is cold, so this check should be performed belore the vehicle has been staMed for the day. 2 Open the hood and remove the top plate of the air cleaner assembly. It is usually held in place by a wing nut at the center. If any vacuum hoses must be disconnected, make sure you tag them to ensure reinstallation in their original positions. Place the top plate and wing nut aside. out of the way of moving engine components. 3 LDok et the top of the carburetor at the canter of the air cleaner housing. You will notice e lIat plate at the carburetor opening (photot. 4 Have an assistant press the accelerator pedal to the floor. The plate should close completely. Start the engine while you observe the plate at the carburetor. Caution: Do not position your (ace directly over the carburetor. tiS the engine could backfire, C8uslng s8l'ious bums. When the engine starts, the choke plate should open slightly. 5 Allow the engine to continue running at an idle speed. As the engine warms up to operating temperature, tha plate Should slowly open. allowing more air to enter through the top of the c arburetor. 6 Alter a few minutes, the choke plate should be fully open to the vertical position. 7 You will notice that the engine spead corresponds with the plate opening. With the plate completely closed, the engine should run at a fast idle speed. As the plate opens, the engine speed will decrease.

1

1-24

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

--:",oi\-- LUBRICATE

21,2 The tachometer ~11, screwdriver lind assorted vacuum hose plugs (2) used when adjusting Ihe engine idle speed

21.4

Typical idle speed edjustment

sc re w 10I;8tion8 (arrows)

B If II fault is detected during the ebove checks, refer to Chapter 4 for specific information related to adjusting end servicing the choke components.

20

Carburetor mounting torque check

The carburetor is attached to the top of the intake manifold by two or lour nuts. These fasteners can sometimes work loose from vibration end temperature chengas during normal engine operation and cause II vacuum leak. 2 To properlv tighten the carburetor mounting nuts, a torque wrench is necessary. If you do not own one. they can usually be rented on a daily basis. 3 Remove the air cleaner assembly, tagging each hose to be disconnected with a piece of numbered tape to make reassembly easier. 4 Locate the mounting nuts at the base of the carburetor. Decide what special tools or adapters will be necessary, if any, to tighten the nuts with a properly sized socket and the torque wrench. 5 Tighten the nuts to a torque of about 12 h-Ibs. Do not overtighten the nuts, as the threads may strip. If you suspect that a vecuum leak exists at the bottom of the carburetor, obtain a length of hose about the diameter of fuel hose. Start the engine and place one end of the hose next to your ear as you probe around the base of the carburetor with the other end. You will hear a hissing sound if a leak exists. 7 If, after the nuts ara properly tightened. a vacuum leak still exists, the carburetor must be removed and a new gasket installed. See Chapter 4 for more information. B After tightening the nuts. reinstall the air cleaner and return all hoses to their original positions.

e

21

Engine Idle apeed adjuatment

Engine idle speed is the speed at which the engine operates when no acceleretor pedal pressure is applied. Thia speed is critical to the performance of the engine itself, as well as many engine sub·systems. 2 A hand-held tachometer (photo) must be used when adjusting the idle speed to get an accurate reading. The exact hook·up for these meters varies with the manufacturer, 80 follow the particular directions included. 3 Since these models were equipped with many different carburetors in the time period coverad by this manual, and each has its own peculiarities when setting idle spaed, it would be impractical to cover all types in this Section. Chapter 4 contains information on each individual carburetor used. The carbu retor used on your particular angine can be found in the Specifications Section of Chapter 4. However, all vehicles covered in this manual should hIVe a tune-up decal or Emis· sian Control Information label in the englna compartment, usually placed near the top of the radiator. The printed Instructions for setting idle speed can be found on this decal or label, end should be followed since they are for your particular engine.

Fig. 1.16 Typical heat valve location and lubrication points )Sec 22)

4 Basically, fo r most applications, the idle speed i s set by turning an edjustment screw located at the side of the carburetor (photo). Turning the screw changes the position of the throttle valve in the carburetor. This screw may be on the linkage itself or may be part of the Idle stop solenoid. Refer to the tune-up decal or Chapter 4. 5 Once you have located the idle speed screw, e)(perimenl with diflerent length screwdrivers until the adjustments can easily be made without coming into contact with hot or moving engine components. 6 Follow the instructions on the tune -up decal or Emission Control Information label, which may include disconnecting certain vacuum or electrical connections. To plug a vacuum hose after disconnecting it, insert a properly sized met81 rod into the opening or thoroughly wrap the open lind with tape to prevent any vacuum loss through the hose. 7 If the air cleaner is removed, the vacuum hose to the snorkel should be plugged. 8 Make sure the p8rking brake is firmly set 8na the wheels blocked to prevent the vehicle from rolling . This is especially true if the transmission is to be in Drive. An assistant inside the vehicle pushing on the brake pedal is the l afest method. 9 For all applications, the engine must be completely warmed-up to operating temperature, which will automatiC811y render the choke f8st idle inoperative. 10 Tum the idle speed screw in or out, as required, until the idle speed listed in the Specifications i s obtained.

22

EIIhaust heat valve check

The e)(haust heat valve is located at the junction of the exhaust pipe and manifold. It can be identified by an e)(ternal weight and spring. 2 With the engine and e)(haust pipe cold, cry mOVing the weight by hand. It should move freely. lubricate the valve with graphite at the time of inspection end at the specified intervals. 3 With the engine cold, start it 8nd observe the he8t v8lve. Upon starting, the weight should move to the closed position. As the engine W8rma to normal oper8ting temperature, the weight should move the valve to the open position, allowing a free flow of e)(haust gas through the tailpipe. Since it could take several minutes lor the system to heat up, you could mark the position 01 the weight when cold, drive the vehicle and then recheck the position of the we ight.

23

Exhaust Gas ReCirculation (EGR) valve check

The EGR valve is located on a spacer plate located below the carburetor on four-cylinder engines, on the side of the intake manifold on si)( -cylinder engines and on a machined surface at the rear 01 the intake manifold on VB engines. Most 01 the time when 8 fault develops in this emissions system, it is due to a stuck or corroded EGR v81va.. 2 With the engine cold to prevent burns, reach under the EGR v81ve 8nd m8nU8Uy push on the diaphragm. Using moderate pressure, you should be able to move the diaphragm up and down within the hoosing. 3 If the diaphragm does not move or moves only with much effort.

1-25

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

un REIR

-------•--------

~-.---7"""== '\ = . . _,, , ---- --- ----

~

LEn FROMT

the mechanical linkage actuallv begins to disengage the clutCh disc from the flvwheel and pressure plate. 3 To check the free play. slowly depress the clutch pedal until the resistance offared by the clutCh release mechanism is fell (the pedal will suddenly become much more difficult to move). 4 Meausre the distance the clutch pedal has trevelled and compare it to the Specifications. If adjustment is required. refer to ChaptGl for the step·by· step procedure to follow.

a

J~

RIGHT REIR

25

-

liGHT • ---------....,

FIOMT

FIVE TIRE ROTATION

un REIR ------ ------ un FROM!

RIGHT RElR

---------..., •

----------- RIGHT FROMT FOUR TIRE ROTATION RADIAL TIRE ROTATION BIAS / BIAS BELTED TIRE ROTATION

Fig. 1.17

Tire rotation

The tires should be rotated at the specified intervals and whenever uneven wear is noticed. Since the vehicle will be reised and the tires removed anyway. this ise good time to check the brakes (Sec 31) and/or repack the wheel bearings (Chepter Reed over thesa Sections before beginning. 2 The location for each tire in the rotation saquence dapends on Ihe type of tire used on your vehicle. nre type can be determined by reading the raised printing on the sidewall of the tire. The accompany· ing illustration shows the rotation sequence for each type of tire. 3 See the information in Jading and rowing at the front of this manual for the proper procedures to follow when raising the vehicle end chenging a tire; however. if the brakes are to be checked. do not apply the parking brake as steted. Make sura the tires are blocked to prevent the vehicle from rolling. 4 Preferablv, the entire vehicle should be ra ised at the same time. This can be done on a hoist or by jacking up each corner and lhen lower· ing the vehicle onto jackstands placed under the frame rails. Always use four jackstands and make sure the vehicle is firmlv supported all around. 5 Alter rotation . check and adjust the tire pressures as necessary and be sure to check wheel lug nut tightness.

m.

26

Wheel beering check

Tire rotetlon diagram (Sec 25) In most cases, the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed. However, these bearings should be checked whenever the front wheels are raised for any reason. Also, it is very important to adjust and lubricate tha bearings at the specified intervals (Chapter 11). 2 With the vehicle securelv supponed on jackatands and the transfer case in Neutral with the hubs unlocked, spin the wheel and check for noise, rolling resistanCe and free play. Now grasp the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the lire in·and·out on the spindle. If it moves more than 0.OO5·inch, the bear· ings should be adjusted as described in Chapter 11. The bearings should be packed with grease at the specified in tervals.

27

Fig. 1.18

Automatic tran.mlnlon oil pan removal (Sec 27)

replace the EGR valve with II new one. If you are in doubt ebout the condition of the valve. go to your locill parts store and compare the free movement of your EGR valve with a new vilive. 4 Further testing of the EGR system and component replacement procedures can be found in Chapter 6 .

24

Clutch pedal frea play check

Proper clutch pedal free plllV is very important for proper clutch operation and to ansure normlll clutch service life. 2 Clutch pedal free plaV is the distance the clutch pedal moves before

Automatic transmls.ion fluid chenge

At the specified time intervals, the transmission fluid should be changed and the filter raplaced with a new one. Since there is no drain plug. the trensmission all pan must be removed from the bottom of the transmission to drain the fluid. 2 Before draining, purchase the specified transmission fluid (see Recommended lubricants (I(Id ((uids) end a new filter. The necessary gaskets should be included with the fitter; if not, purchase an oil pan gasket and an O· ring seal. 3 Other tools necessary for this job include:

JI1C/(stands to support the vehicle in 11 fBised position A wrench to remove the .oil plln bQlts A drain pan capable of holding at least six quarts Newspapef$ and clean fBgS 4 The fluid should be drained immediately after the vehicle has been driven. This will remove any built·up sediment better then if the fluid were cold. Because of this. it may be wise to waar protective gloves (fluid temperature can exceed 350· F in a hot trensmisslon). 5 After the vehicle has been driven to warm up the fluid, feise it and place it on jackstands for access underneath. Make sure the vehicle is firmlv supported by the four stands placed under the frame rails .

1

1-26

Chapter 1 Tune- up and routine maintenance

6 Move the necessary equipment under the vehicle, being careful not to louch any of the hot exhaust components. 7 Pl ace the drain pan under the transmission all pan and remove Ihe oil pan bolts along the rea r and sides 01 the pan. Loosen. but do not remoVfJ. the bolts at the front of the pan. e Carefully pry the oit pan down al the rear, allowing Ihe hot fluid to drain into the pan. If necessary, use II screwdriver to break the gasket seat at the rellr of the pan; however, do not damage the pan or transmission gasket surfaces in the process. 9 S\Jpport the pan and remOIle Ihe remaining b9tts al the front. Lower the pan and drain the remaining fluid into the container. As this Is done. check the fluid for metal particles, which may be an indication of internal transmission failure. 10 Now visible on the bottom of the transmission is thelilterfstrainer held in place by three screws. 11 Remove the three screws, the filter and the a -ring seal from the pick-up pipe. 12 Thoroughly clean the transmission oil pan with solvent. Inspect it for metal particles and foreign matter. Dry It w ith compressed air (if available). 13 Clean the filter mounting surface on the valve body. This surface should be smooth and free of damage and nicks. 14 Place the new a-ring in position on the pick-up pipe and install the strainer and pipe assembly. 15 Place the new gasket in position and retain it w ith petroleum jelly. 16 Uh the pan up to the bottom of the transmission and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts in a diagonal fashion. work ing around the pan. 17 lower the vehicle. 18 Open the hood and remove the transmission fluid dipstick from the guide tube. 19 Since fluk! capacities vary between the various transmission types, it is best to edd e little fluid at a time, continually checking the level with the dipstick. Allow the fluid time to drein Inlo Ihe pan. Add fluid unt il the level just registers on the end of the dipstick. In most ceses, a good sterting point will be four (41 quarts added to the transmission through the filler lube (use a funnel to prevent spills). 20 With the selector lever in Park, apply the parking brake and start the engine without depressing the accelerator pedal !if possible). Allow the engine to run at a slow idle for a few minutes. 2 1 With the brake pedal depressed end Ihe perking brake applied, shih the transmiS$ion t hrough all gear positions end then place it in Park. 22 Check the fluid level on the dipstick, addIng as necessary to bring the level up to the Full mark. 00 not allow the fluid level to go above this point, as the transmission would then be overfull, necessitating the removal of the 011 pan to drain out the excess fluid. 23 Look under the ve hicle for leaks around the oil pan mating surface. 24 Push the dipstick firmly back into the tube and drive the vehicle to reach normal operating temperature 115 miles of highway driving or its equivalent In the city). Park the vehicle on a level surface and check the fluid level on the dipstick with the engine Idling and the transmission in Park. The level should now be at the Full mark on the dipstick. If not, add more fluid as necessary to bring Ihe level up to this point. Again, do not overfill.

28.4 Typicel tra nsmission drain plug location (arrowl

28

Menual !ran.mission lubricant cha nge

The manual transmission lubricent should be dreined and replaced at the specified intervals. Drive the vehicle to bring the transmission lubricant 10 operaling temperature. 2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely. Before beginning this job. you will need: A wrench to remove the transmission plug A drein pen of et feast six·quert cepeciry An adequate suppfy of the specified lubn"cant Jacks tands to support the vehicle in e raised position Newspepars end cfeen regs 3 Place the drain pan under the drain plug and remove the fill plug. 4 Remove the drain plug (photo l and allow Ihe transmission lubricant to drain into the pan . Inspect the lubricant for signs of contamination and metal partides, which could indicate a malfunction in Ihe transmission. 5 Install the fill plug and lill the transmission w ith the specified lubricant Isee Recommanded lubricents end fluids) to the bottom of the fill plug hole. Install the fill plug and tighten it securely. 6 Lower the vehicle, drive it and check for leaks.

29

Tranl fer case lubrice nt cha ng.

The transfer case lubricant should be drained and replaced at the same time as the manual transmission (Sec 281. 2 Follow the procedures in Steps 2 and 3 of Section 28. 3 Remove Ihe drain plug and allow the lubricant 10 run into the pan (photo). On Guadra-Trac models equipped with reduction units. loosen the five retaining bolts and pull the unit forward sufficiently to permit draining. 4 Inspect the lubricant for clues as to the condition of the transfer

Fig. 1.19

29.3 On laler models. the transfer case drain plug lafrow) is accessible through an opening in the skid plate

Removing the automatic t ransmission fl uid filte r (Sac 27)

Fig. 1.20 Removing the differential cove r to drain the lubri ca nt (Sec 30)

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance case, such as matel perticles, water and other contamination. S Install the drain plug. Push the Quadra·Trac reduction unit back into position and tighten the retaining bolts. 6 FiJI the transfer case to just below the filler hole with the specified lubricant and install the plug. Tighten it securely. 7 Lower the lIehicle, test driI/Q it and check for leaks.

30

Diffllrllntial lubricant change

Some differentials can be drained by remolling a drain plug, while on others it is necessery to remOlle the cOlier plate on the differential housing. Because of this, be sure to buy a new gasket at the same time the gear lubricant is purchased. 2 MOlle a drain pan lot least lille-pint capacity), rags, newspapers and wrenches under the lIehicie. 3 On drain plug·equipped differentials, remove the lill plug, 101lowed by the drain plug, and allow the lubricant to drain into tho pan. When it is completely drained, replace the drain plug and refill the dillarantial with the specified lubricant to the base of the fill plug hole. Install the fill plug and tighten It securely. 4 On differentials without drain plugs, remOlle the bolts on the lower half 01 the differential COlier plate. Use the upper bolts to keep the cove r loosely attached to the dilferential. Allow the lubricant to drain into

u WEAR INDICATOR _ _«"

tj tj

o o o

H

the drain pan, then completely remove the cover. 5 Using a lint-free rag, clean the Inside of the cover and accessible areas of the differential housing. As this is done, check for chipped gears and metal particles in the lubricant, indicating the differential should be more thoroughly inspected and for repaired (see Chapter 8 lor more information.) 6 Thoroughly clean the gasket mating surface on the cover and the differential housing. Use a gasket scraper or putty knife to remove all traces 01 the old gasket. 7 Apply a thin film 01 RTV·type gasket sealant to the cover flange and then press I new gesket into position on the cover. Make sure the boit holes Ilign properly. 8 Place the cOlier on the differential housing and install the bolts. Ttghten the bolts a little at a time. working across the cover in a diagonal fashion until all bolts are tight. 9 Remove the fill plug on the side of the differential housing or cover and lill the housing with the proper lubriClnt until the level Is at the bottom of the plug hole. 10 Securely instsll the plug.

31

Brske check

The brakes should be inspected every time the wheels are remollad or whenever a problem is suspected. Indicltions of a potential brake system fault are: the lIehicle pulls to one side when the brake pedal is depressed, noises coming Irom the brakes when they are applied, e)(cessille breke pedal travel, pulsating pedal and leakage 01 fluid (which is usually seen on the inside of the tire or wheel).

Disc brakes 2 Disc brakes can be lIisually checked without removing any parts e)(cept the wheels. 3 Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack.slands. RemOlle the front wheels (See Jacking and towing at the front of this manual, if necessary!. 4 Now visible is the disc brake caliper. which contains Ihe pads. There is an outer brake pad and an inner pad. Both should be inspected. 5 Most later model vehicles come equipped with a wear sensor attached to the inner pad. This is a small, bent piece of metal which is visible from the inboard side 01 the brake caliper. When the pads wear to s danger limit, the meta! sensor rubs against the disc and makes a screeching sound. 6 Inspect the pad thickness by looking at each end 01 the c"liper and through the inspection hole in the caliper body (photo). If the wear

WORN Fig. 1.21

Disc breke waar indicators ISac 31)

31.6 The brake pad lining (arrow) can be seen through the inspection hole in the caliper

1-27

Fig . 1.22 Early model CJ 2A and 3A brake adjultment pointl (Sec 31)

1

1-28

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

FIg.1.23

Early model CJ 3B. CJ 5 end CJ 6 brake adjustment componentl ISec 311

, Bleeder screw 2 Brake btlcking plat.

4 Eccentric adjusting

3 Eccentric locknut

5 Brake line

32.2

screw

sensor clip is very close to the rotor, Of if the lining materiel is l iB-inch Of less in thickness, the pllds should be replaced. Keep in mind Ihat the lining material is riveted or bonded to II metal backing shoe and the metal portion is not included in this measurement. If the lining material is worn to 8 point where It is thinner than the backing plate, new pads are required. 7 It will be difficuh, if not impossible. to measure the exect thickness of the remaining fining material. If you are In doubt 8S to the pad quality. remove the pads for further inspection or replacement. See Chap· ter 9 for disc brake pad replacement. 8 Before installing the wheels, check for leakage and damage to the brake hose Icracking, splining, etc.) around the brake hose connections. Replace the hoses or finings as necessary, referring to Chapter 9. 9 Also check the disc for scoring, gouging or burnt spots. If these conditions exist, the hub/rotor assemblv should be removed for ser· vicing (Chapter 9).

Tools required for spark plug replacement

2

Ratchet/extension Sperk plug socket

3 4

Sperk plug gep toof Torque wrench

Brake adjultment 20 On models without self·adjusting brakes, the brakes must be ad· justed periodicaliV to compenSiilte for wear. With the vehicle raised and supported securelv, locate the adjusting screws. 21 On earlv models, loosen the brake shoe adjusting eccantric locknuts. Rotate the wheel while turning the forward brake shoe ec· centric toward the front of the vehicle until the shoe contacts the drum. Continue rotating the wheel whila backing off the eccentric until the wheel rotates freelv. TIghten the locknut and repeat the procedure for the rear shoe, tuming the eccentric toward the rear of the vehicle. 22 Further adjustment can be made on some earlV models bV turn' ing the eccentric anc:t'lor pins toward each other until the shoe·to·drum clearance is approximatelv 0.005·inch at the lower end and 0.OO8·inch at the uppar end of tha brake shoe lining. This can be checked with a feeler gauge inserted through a slot in the brake drum on eariV models.

Parking brake

Drum brakes Inspection 10 Raise the vehicle and support it securelV on jackstands. 11 Remove the wheels, referring to Jecking end towing at the Iront of this manual, il necessary. 12 Remove the hub and brake drum as described in Chapter 9. 13 With the drum removed, ca refullv brush away any accumulations 01 dirt and dust. Caution: Do not blow thll dust out with compressed air. Make an effort not to inhale the dust beclluse it contein!:! IIsbestos and is harmful to your heelth. 14 Observe the thickness of the lining material on both the front and rear brake shoes. Measura tha amount 01 remaining lining and com· pare this to the Specifications. If the linings look wom, but you are unable to determine their exact thickness, compare them with a new set at an auto parts store. The shoes should also be replaced i f thev are cracked, glazed (shinv surface) or contaminated with brake fluid. 15 Make sure that all the brake assemblV springs ar& connected and in good condition. 16 Inspect the brake components for signs of fluid leakege. With your finger, careful'v pry back the rubber cups on the wheel cv'inder located at the top of the brake shoes. AnV leakege is an indication that the wheel cylinders should be overhauled immediatelv (Chapter 9). Also check the hoses and connections for signs of leakage. 17 Wipe the inside of the drum with a cl'!lan rag and denatured alcohol or braka system cleaner. Again, be careful not to breathe t he dangerous asbestos duat. 18 Check the Inside of the drum for cracks, scoring, deep scratches and hard spots (which will appear as small discolorations). 19 If all parts are found in good condition sfter the inspection pro· cess, reinstall the brake drum (Chapter 9). Adjust the brakes (see below) and lower tha vehicle to the ground.

23 The easiest wav to check the operation of the parking brake is to park the vehicle on a steep hill, with the parking brake set and the transmission in Neutral. If the parking brake cannot prevent the vehi· cle from rolling, it should be adjusted (see Chaptar 9).

32

Spark plug replacement

The spark plugs are located on each side of the engine on a VB or VB and mav or may not be easilv accessible for removal. In-line engines generallv have fewer spark plug accessibilitv problems. If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning or power steering, some 01 tha plugs mav be difficult to remove (in which case special extension or swivel tools will be necessaryl. Make a survey under the hood to determine if special tools will be needed. 2 In most cases the tools necessary for a spark plug replacement job include a plug wrench or spark plug socket which fits onto a rat· chet wrench (this special socket will be insulated inside to protect the procelain insulator) and a wi re·tvpe feeler gauge to check and adjust the spark plug gap (photo). If the vehicle is equipped with HEI or BID (electronic) ignition, a special spark plug wire removal tool is available for separating tho wire boot from the spark plug. 3 The best procedure to follow whan replacing the spark plugs is to purchase the new spark plugs beforehand, adjust them to the proper gap and then replace each plug one at a time. When buying the new spark plugs it is important to obtain the correct plugs for your specific engine. This information can be found in the Specifications Section but should be cheCked against the information found on the tune·up decal or Emission Control Information labellocatad under the hood or in the factory owner's manual. If differences exist between these sources, purchase the spark plug type specified on the tune·up

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenan ce

1-29

34.1 Although It Is possible to clean contact points that ere pitted. burned and corroded jes shown herel. they should be replaced Instead Fig. 1.24 Typical contact breeker point compone nts !Sec 3 4 ) , Point mounting screw

2 Condenser lelJd wire 3 Primary lead wire

5 Point ClJm 6 Poim rubbing block 7 Adjustment slot

4 Condenser decal or emIssion label as it was prinled for your specific engine.. 4 With Ihe new spark plugs on hand. aDow the engine to cool thoroughly belore attempting removaL DUring this time. each of the new spark plugs can be inspected lor defects and the gap can be checked/adjusted. 5 The gap is checked by inserting the proper thickness gauge between the electrodes at the tip of tha plug. Tha gap between these electrodes should be the same as that given in the Specifications or on the tune-up decatlemissions lebel. The wire should just touch each of the electrodes. If Ihe gap is Incorrect, use the notched adjuster on the feeler gauge body to IHInd the curved ,ide elaclrode slightly until the proper gap is obtained . Also at this time check for cracks In the spark plug body, indicating the spalk plug should not ba used. If the side electroda is not exactly over the cente r one. use the notched adjuster to align them. e Cover the fenders of the vehitle to prevent damaga to the exterior paint. 7 With the engine cool, remove the spark plug wire from one spark plug. Do this by grabbing the boot at the end of the wire. not the wire itself. Sometimes it is necesury to use a Iwisting motion While the boot and plug wire are pulled free.. Use 01 a plug wire removal tool is recommended. 8 If comp ressed aIr Is available, use it to blow any dirt or foreign material away from the spark plug area. A common bicycle pump will also work. The idea hell is to eliminate the pOlsib~ity of material failing into the engine cylinder as the spark plug is removed. 9 Now place the spark plug wrench or socket over the plug and remove it from the engine by turning in a coufltelClockwise direction. 10 Compare the spark plug with those shown In the accompanying color photos to get an indication of the overall running condition of the engine. 11 Carefully inl8rt one of the new plugs into the sperk plug hole and tighten it es much as possible by hand. The spark plug should screw easily into the engine.. II it doesn't, change the angle 01 the spark plug slightly, as chances are the threeds are not matched !cross-threaded). 12 Finally, tighten the spark plug with the wrench or socket. It is a good idea to use a torque wrench for this to ensure that the plug i. seated correctly. The correct torque figure is given in the Specificetions. 13 Before pushing the spark plug wire onto the end of the plug, inspect it following the procedures outlined in Section 33. 14 Attach the plug wire to the new sperk plug. egain using a twisting motion on the boot until it Is fIrmly seated. Make sure the wire is routed away from the eKhaust mafllfold. 15 Repeet the procedure for the remaining spark plugs, replacing them one at a time to prevent milong up the plug wires.

33 Spark plug w ire., distributor cep and rotor - check and replacement I The spark plug wires .hould be checked at the recommended inteIVals and whenever new spark plugs are installed in the engine.. 2 The wires .hould be inspacted one at a time to prevent milting up the order, which is essentiel fOf proper engine operation. 3 Disconnect the plug wire from the spark plug. A removal tool can be used lor this purpose or you cen grab the rubber boot, twist slightly and pull the wire free. Do not puN 0tI the wire it,lIff, olllyon the rubber boor. 4 ins pact inside the boot for corroskln, which will look like a white crusty powder. Pu.h the wire and boot back onto the end of the spark plug. It should be a tight fit on the plug end. If it is not, llmove the wire and use pliers to carelully crimp tha metal connector Inside the wire boot until it fits securely on the end of the spark plug . 5 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of the wire to remove any built -up dirt and grease.. Once the wire i. cieen, check lor burns, cracks and other demage. Do not bend the wire. since the conductor might break . 6 Disconnect the wire from the distributor. Again, pull only on the rubber boot. Check for corrosion and e tight fit in the same manner as the spark plug end. Replace the wire in the distributor. 7 Check the remaining spark plug wires, making sure they are SecUII1'1' fastened al the diSlributOf and apalk plug when the check is complate. 8 If new sperk plug wires Sfe required. purchese a set for your specific engine model. Wire sets are available PIl-cUt, with the rubber boots already instelled. Remove and replace the wires one at a time 10 avoid milt-up. in the firing order. 9 Check the distributor cap and rotor for wear. Look for cracks, carbon tracks and worn. burned or loose contacts. Replace the cap and rotor with new parts If defects ell found . It i. common practice to insta" e new cap and rotor whenever new spark plug wires are installed. When installing a new cap. remove tha wires from the old cap one et a time and attach them to the new cap in the exact same localion do not simultaneously remove all the wires from the old cap or firing order mix-upi may occur.

34 Contact ~tI end condenMr - replacement and adjustment !1953 t hrough 1974 modelsl , Although the contact points can be cleaned and dressed with e fine·cut file, it is recommended that the home mechanic replace them with new onel instead !photo). 2 The contact point sat and condenser should be replaced as a set. Point alignment and spring tension are factory set and should not re quire further adjustment iii they do, bend the stlltio/18ry contact only) . 3 Whenever contact point replacement is done. it is e good idea to

1

1-30

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

use magnetized tools to prevent screws Of nuts from felling down in· to tne distributor {which would require distributor disBssemblV to retrieve them!.

COnt8Ct point remov81 8nd inst8118 tion 4 5 the 6

Remove the distributor cap (Chapter 5). Position the cep (with the spark plug wires still attached) out of way. Use a length of wire or st ri ng to restrain it if necessery. Remove tha rotor, which Is now visible at the top of the distributor

shaft. On some models the rotor is held in position with screws (photol. while on olhers it is 8 push fit on the shaft end can be pulled off. Place the rotor In a safe place where it cannot be damaged. 7 Disconnect the primary and condenser wire leads at the conlact point SElt. The wires may be attached with a small nut Iwhich should be loosened, but not removed), a small screw or a quick-disconnect fining (photos). 8 Remove the screw!s) which secure the contact point set to the

breaker plale Iphotol. Do nor completely 'amove the screws secudng

34.6 Some rotors are attached with screws, which must be removad before the rotor can be separated from the distributor shaft

34 .7A On some models, the primary end condenser wires are attached to the points by e small nut or screw, which must be loosened to detach the wires

34.78 On other models, the wires can simply be pulled off the points (pliers may be required - pull only on the terminals, not the wires I

34.8 Removing the point· mounting screw (on models wIth slotted mounting holes, the screw!s) should be loosened only)

34. 15 Before adjusting the point gap, the rubbing block must be resting on one of the cam lobes (which should open the points)

34 .16A On some models, the point gap is adjusted by inserting a screwdriver into the slot end twisting it to move the stationary point (you should feal a very slight drag on the gauge as it is withdrawn from between the point contactsl

,

34.168 Some modals hava an adjusting screw which must be turned with en Allen wrench to chenge the poin t gep (you should feel a very slight drag on the geuge es it is withdrawn from bet ween the point contacts)

34 .29 On some models, the dwell can be adjusted with the engine running by opening the window in the distributor cap and turning the point-adjusting screw with an Allen wrench

35. 5 The timing light 11 L special curved distributor bolt wrench (2) and vacuum hose plugs (3) used for ignition timing adjustment

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance poim sets that hava slots at thase loclltions. Seperate the point set from the breaker plate. 9 The condenser can now ba ramoved from tha distributor. loosen the mounting strap scraw and slide the condenser out of the bracket. or completely remove the condenser and strap. depanding on the particular mounting arrangement. 10 Before Installing the new poiots and condenser. remove a\l old lubri· cant, din. etc . from tha breaker plate and the point cam surface of the distributor shaft. I I lubricata tha point cam with the speciel grease suppliad with the new points or commercially available point cam lube (do not use multipurpose grellsel . Some modal, have a cam lubricator wick mounted on the breakar plate . The wick can ba rotated to provide lubrication if it is still in good condition, but if in doubt, replaca the wick with a naw ana to provide adequate lubrication of tha cam surface. It ia ramoved by squeezing together the base of the retainar with long-nosed pliers and then lifting the unit out of the breaker plate. It i, important that the cam lUbricator wick be adjusted so the end of the wick just touches the cam lobes. Note: On early L- and F-head four~ylindar engines, place one drop of engine oil on the lubricator wick at tha top of the distributor shaft and four or five drops in the oiler locllted on the side of the housing. 12 Place the new condenser in position and tighten the mounting screw . 13 Attach the new contact point set to the breaker plate and tighten the mounting screw(s) until just snug . 14 Connect the primary and condanser wire laads to the new point assembly. Make sure tha condenser laad is positionad tha sama way it was bafore removal. 15 Although the gap batween the contact points will be set whan the dwell angle is adjustad. it is a good idea to adjust the initial gap to stan the engine. With the points in position and the mounting screwls) snug, but not complately tight, make SUI08 that the point rub bing block is resting on one of the lobes of the cam (photo!. To move the cam, turn the crankshaft by placing a wrench over the large bolt at the front of the crankshaft. 18 With the rubbing block on II cam lobe (points fully open), place II blade -typa feeler gauge between the contllCts. The gllp should be as specified. On some models, tha gap can be changad with a screwdriver. Insart the scrawdriver into the adjustmant slot and twist it slightly to move the stationary point (photo I. On other modals, the gap is changad by turning the adjusting screw with an Allen wrench (photo!. Whan the gap is correct, tighten tha mounting screwlsl securely . 17 Befora installing tha rotor , inspact it for cracks and damage. Carefully cheCk the condition of. the metal contact at the top of the rotor . If in doubt as to Its condition, replace it with a new one. 18 Install the rotor . It is keyed to lit on the sheh only one way. Make sure it is completely seated . 19 Belore installing the distributor cap, inspect it for cracks and damage . Closely examine the contacts on the inside of the cap for ex cessiye corrosion . If in doubt as to the Quality of the cap, replace it with a new one. 20 Install the distributor cap. 21 Stan the engine and check the dwell angle and the ignition timing.

27 On non window-type distributors, loosen the breaker point mounting screw slightly, then move the stationary point IStep 181 to change the point gap (dwell). Incraasing the point gap will decmasa the dwell reading, while decreasing the point gap will increase tha dwell raading . TIghten the point mounting screw, Install the rotor end distributor cap and recheCk the dwell. 28 Repeat the procedure until the dwell reading is within the specified range {see Step 341. 29 On window-type distributors, insert a proper size Allen wrench through the window and Into the adjusting screw socket (photo I. 30 Start the engine and turn the adjusting screw as required to obtain tha specif ied dwell reading on the meter. Remove your hand and recheCk the reading. 31 Remove tha Allen wrench and close the window. Shut off the engine and disconnect tha dwell meter. 32 If you cannot obtain a dwell meter, you can get an approximate dwell setting on window-type distributors without one by using the following method. 33 With the engine at normal operating temperature, raise the window and insert the Allen wrench. Start the engine and turn the wrench clockwise until the engine starts to misfire. Then turn the screw onehe" tum counterclockwise. Remove the Alien wranch and close the window. Have the dwell angle Checked and /or adjusted with a meter as soon as possible. 34 Note: On all models, try to obtain a dWflIl setting that is toward the lower end of the specified renge. Then, as the points wear (which increases dWflIJJ, the dwell will remain within the specified range for a longer period of time.

1 35

Ig niti on tim ing - check and adjustment

All later model Yehicles are equipped with a tune-up or Emissions Control Information label Inside the engine compartment. This label contains important Ignition timing specifications and procedures to be followed specific to that vehicle. If information on the label differs from the information given in this Section, the label should be followed. 2 At the specified Intervals, whenever the contact points have been replaced, the distributor removed or a change made In the fvel type. the Ignition timing must be checked and adjusted if necessary. 3 Before attempting to check the timing, make sure the contact point dwell angle is correct (Section 34 ; 1953 through 1974 models only), and the idle speed is as specified (Section 21). Place the transmission in Neutral, apply the par1<::ing brake. warm the engine to operating temperature then switch Ihe ignition Off. 4 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the distributor and plug the now-open end of the hose with a rubber plug, rod or bolt of the proper size. Make sure Ihe idle speed remains correct; adjust as necessary. On 150 cu in four-cylinder models, disconnect the electrical connectors from the vacuum switches located on a bracket attached to the centSf of the firewall . 5 Connect a timing light in accordance with the manufacturer' s instructions (photo). Generally, the light will be connected to the bat-

Dwell angle adjustment 22 Whenever new c ontact points are installed or the original points are cleaned. the dwell angle must be cheCked and adjusted. 23 Setting the dwell angle is actually quite easy; however, e dwell meter must be used for precise adjustment. Combination tach/dwell meters are common tune-up instruments which can be purchased at a reasonable cost. 24 Connect the dwall meter according to the manufacturer's instructions. Usually, one lead is attached to the primary wire at the distributor and the other lead is attached to a good ground on the engine. Make sure the engine selector switch on the meter is in the correct position. 25 Start the engine and allow it to idle until it has reached normal operating temperature. The engine must be warm to achieve an accurate reeding. 26 Note the dwell meter read ing. If it is within the specified range,. shut off the engine and disconnect the meter. If it is not within the specified range. shut off the engine and remove the distributor cap and rotor. Some models have a distributor cap equipped with a metal 'window' which can be reised (and held up with tape, if necessary) for dwell adjustment, instead of having to remove the distributor cap.

1-31

Fig. 1.2 5

Early model L-head engIne timing mark location ISec 35)

1-32

35.11

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

FIg. 1.26

Later model F- and L-heed engine ti ming mark 1000ation ISec 3 5)

Fig. 1.27

va engin e timing mark location ISec 35)

Tvplcal lale model distributor bolt location (arfowl

tery terminals and to the number one III spark plug in some fashion . On V-type engines, the number onll spark plug '- the first one on the right as you are facing th9 engine from tha front. On in-line engines, it is the front spark plug. 6 locate the numbered timing ta" on the front cover of tha engine. It is just behind Ihe lower crankJhah pulley. Clean it off with solvent, If necessary, to reveal the printing lind small grooves. 7 !.Deale the notched groove across the crankshaft pulley. It may be necessary to have an 8 ..1111"1 temporarily tu rn the ignition off and on in short bUr1ts without atartlng the engine to bring this groove into II position where it can aasily ba cleaned aod marked. Stay clear of all moving engine component, if the engine I, tumed over In this manner. S Use white soapstone, chalk or paint to mark the groove 00 the crankshaft pullev. Also put a mark 00 tha timing tag 10 eccordBoce with the number of degrees called for in the Specifications or on t he label in the engine compartment. Each peak or notch on the timing tab represents 2°. The word 8afoffl or the letter A Indicates advance and the letter 0 indicates Top Dead Center (TOe). M an example, If your vehicle specifications call for 8° BToC IBefore Top Dead Center), you w ill mske a mark 00 the timing tag 4 notches bator. the 0. Some models have a T or TOe mark.

FIg . 1.28

9 Make sure that the wiring for the tim ing light is clear of all mov' ing engine components, then start the engine. 10 Point tha flashing timing light at the timing marks, again being cafeful not to come in contect with moving parts. The marks you made

VB Inglne timing ml rk

~llon (Sec:

351 FIg . 1.29 151 cu in fout-cyllnder timing sCIHl I nd mar1l Iocltlon ISec 35)

Fig. 1.30 Typical 150 cu in four -cylinder and in-line six-cylinder engine ti m ing marks (Sec 35)

Common spark plug conditions NORMAL Symptoms: Brown to grayish-tan color and slight electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions. Recommendation: When new spark plugs are installed, replace with plugs of the same heat range.

TOO HOT

WORN Symptoms:

Rounded electrodes with a small amout1t 01 deposits on the tiring end. Normal color. Causes hard starling In damp or cold weather and poor fuel economy.

RecommwKl.tlon:

Plugs have beerI left in the ~ 100 long. Replace WIth new plugs 01 the same heat Jange. Follow the nIC'

ommended maintenance schedule. CARBON DEPOSITS Dry sooty deposiIs Indicate a nch!Tllxb.n or weak Igoilion. Causes ,misfiling, hard Su.1tng and hesltalloil. RKOmf1lfHKhtlon: Make sure the plug has the correct Ileal raoge. Check lor • clogged air lIIIer or problem In the fuel system or 80gIne ~ system. Also check tor Ignition system problems, Symptoms:

ASH DEPOSITS Symptoms: Ugh! broWl'1 deposiIs

encrusted on the side or center electrodes Of both. 0eriIIed from 011 andlor fuel .oditives. ExC$$SIYa amounts mil)' mask the sparl!, causing mISfiring and hesitation dutlng 8CC8lerltion. Recommfffidallon: If excessive deposits acc::umulate over II IIhort tll'Tl8

or low mileage. W1stall new

guide seals to prevent seepage 01 011 into the combuSlIOIl cl'lambln. Also try cl'langmg ~ ~ne brands. v~

Oil DEPOSITS Symptoms: 0iIv coatIng caused by poor oil control. Oil is IeeImg past worn velva guides or piston rings into the combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misliong 8I"Id hesitation.

R&eommend.t/on:

Correct the

S)rmploms: BIiI!Itered, white Insu· lator, eroded electrode and abseflce of c\epoI!IIIs. Aesvltl if1

shortened plug life. R~tIon: ChecIc for the conect plug heat tange, OVet· advenced IgrvtIOn tlnwlg, te.l fuel mlxt\Q, Intake manifold vacuum Ieak!;, stICking vatves and insufficient engine cooling .

PREIGNITION Symptoms: Melted eIec1rodes. Insulators ere white, buI may be dirty due 10 misfiring Of ftying debris In the oornbt.II!IIlon chamber. Con lead to engine damage Recommendation: CI">eck lOf the ComICt plug heat range, OVet· adv~ Ignition tinliog, te.l fuel mIlrtl.nI, InI!IufIicient BI1gIIlB cooling and lack of lubrication .

HIGH SPEED GLAZING S)rmptoms: Insulalor /las yellow. Ish, gWed appear1II'ICB. 1ncIicat_ thaI combustion cI"Iarnt:.- temper· ,tInS haYI risen -..:IdenIy dln1g h8rd aoceI«etion. Normal depos/tI!I melt 10 farm , conductMl coating. Causes miI!I1irlng al high speeds. R&eommflfld,tfon: Inslall new plUQI!I. ConsIder using , colder plug if drMng I"Iabits warrant.

DETONATION Symptoms: Insulalors may be cracked or chipped. Improper gap !letting techniques can also result In a fractI.nd insuIalOf bp. Con lead 10 piston damage R_~tIon: Make __ the

fuel ri-l!nock values meet engIOB requlflm8ntl. Use care wtlII"I set· ling lhe gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging lhe engine.

mechanical condition with neces· sary ~ and install new plugs.

MECHANICAl DAMAGE GAP BRIDGING Symptom.., CombustlO(1 deposits lodge between the electrode,. Heavy deposi" accumulate and bridge the electrode gap. The plug ceaI!IeS to fire, resultlflQ In , deed

"If'--

Reeomm,nd.tlon:

Locale the faulty plug end remove too deposits from b e ' - the electrodes.

SympIoms: May be c.JIed by a foreign objecl In the combusllon charnbef Of the piston sttiklng an l!"lCOfl'eCt reach (100 long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result In plslon~. Rec:otnmMcNltlon: Aepair the mechanIceI damage. Remove the foreign obte<;1 from the engine and/or lostall the ComICl reach

."'-

1

1-34

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

should appeat ltalion81)'. " the marks are in alignment. the liming Is correct. If the markl .fe not aligoed, turn off the engine. 11 Loosen the bolt at the base of the disuibutor (phOto). On some vehicles th i, task is made moeh easier with 8 special curved distributor wrench. lQosen the bolt only 'lighdy, just enough to tum the distributor. (See Chlpter 5 for furtner details, if necessary.) 12 Now restart the engine and turn the distributor until the timing martl coincide. 13 Shut off tha angina and tighten tha distributor bolt, being careful not to move the dillributor. 14 Start the angine and recheck the timing to make sura the marka ara still in alignmenl. 15 Disconnect Ihe timing tlghl, unplug Ihe distributor vacuum hose and connect Ihe hose to Ihe dlslrlbutor. 16 Drive the vehicle .nd listen for pinging noiles. They will be most nOliceeble when the engine is hoi end under a load (climbing a hill, acceleratIng Irom • IIOP!. " you hear engine pinging, the ignition tim· ing Is too lat .dvanced (Balore Top Deed Centerl. Reconnect the liming IIghl and lurn the diltributor to move the mark 1° or 2° in the retard direction. Road test the vahicle egain to check for proper operation. 17 To keep pinging .t • minimum yet 81i11 allow you to operate the vehicle at the specified timing setting, it is a good idea to use gasoline 01 the same oct.ne at .11 time ... Switching fuel brands and octane levels can decrelse performance and economy and possibly damage the engine.

36 Evaporatlva Control System IECS) filt,r raplacment The function of the ECS emilSions Iystem is to draw luel vapors from the tank and carburetor. store them in e charcoal canister, and then burn them during normal engine operation. 2 Tha liltar at the bottom of the ch81coal canister should be reo placed at the specified intervals. If, however, a fuel odor is detected, the canister. filter and system hose ••hould immediately be inspected. 3 To replace tha lilter, locale the canister at tha front of the angine compaflment. It will have s8ller.1 hosel running out the top of it. 4 Remove the two bolte which lecure the bottom of the canister to the body. 5 Turn the canister upslde·down end pull out the old filter. II you

FUEL VAPOR STO RAGE HOSE ·TO·

A"

AIR CLEANER SNORKEL

carloot turn the canister enough, due to Ihe short length of the hOS8S, the hoses must be marked wIth pieces of tape end then disconnected from the top. e Push the new filter InlO the boltom of the canister, making sure it is seated all the way around.

7 Place the canister btlck into position and tighten the two mounting bolts. Connect the verious hOSBS if they were disconnected. 8

37

The ECS system is explained in more detail In Chapler 6.

Cylinder compraliion check

A compression check will tell you what mechanical condition the engine Is in. Specifically, it can tell you if the compressIon is down due to leakage caused by worn piston rings, defective valves and seats or a blown head galket. 2 Begin by cleaning Ihe erea around the spark plugs before you remove then. This will keep dirt from falling into the cylinders while you are parforming the compression test. 3 Remove the call high·tension leed from the distributor and ground it on the IInglne block. Block the throttle and choke valves wide open. 4 With the comprelsion gauge in the number one cylinder ' s spark plug hole, crank Ihe engine over at least four compression strokes and observe Ihe gauge. Tha compression Ihould build up quickly in a healthy engine. Low comprelsion on the fir\llttoke. followed by gradually in· cllasing prellura on IUccllllive strokes. indicates worn piston rings. A low comprllllion rllding on the first stroke, which does nOt build up during lucceilive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a defective lwIad galket. Record the higneS! gauge reading obtained . 5 Repeal thll procedure for the remaining cylinders and compare the resonllO the Specificatiorl5- Compression readings 10" above or below the specified amount can be considered normal. 6 Pour a couple ofl8aspoonl of engine oil (a squit! can works graat for thll) into each cylinder, through the spark plug hole, and repeat the telt. 7 If the compression increasel aher the oil is edded, the piston rIngs are definitely worn. II the compression does not increase significently, tha leekage is occuVing at the valves or head gasket. Leakege palt the valves m.y be cauled by burned valve seatslfaces. warped, bent or cracked valvel, valves that are out of adjustment, incorrect valve tim· ing and broken valve springs. 8 If IWO adjacent cylinders have equally low compression, there is a strong possibility that the head gasket between them is blown. The eppearance of coolant in the combustion chambers or the crankcase would verify thll condition. 9 If tha compreulon Is higher than normel. the combustion chambers are probably coated with cerbon deposits. II that is the case. the cylinder head!s) should be removed and decarbonized. 10 II compression Is way down. or varies greatly between cylinders, it would be • good Idea to heve a leak·down lest performed by a reputable automotive repair shop. This test will pinpoint exactly where tha leakaga il occurring and how severe it is.

38

Battery -

check and maintenance

Caution: CertlJin prtlClJurions musr be followed when checkmg or sarvicing rhe bartery. Hydrogen glJs. which is highly flammable, is a/wtlYs present in rhe bartary cells so keep lighted robllcco lind IJny orher open flemes or sperts away from rhe barrery. The electrolyttl inside tha blltrery is ectulllly dilute sulfuric IJcid. which ClJn be hlJzard· QUS to your skin and caus. injury if spllJshed in the eyI!Is. It wiN also ruin clothlJs and painted surfaces. 1 Tools and materials reqUired for battery maIntenance include aye and hand protection, baking soda. Petroleum jelly, a battery cable puller, cable/terminal post cleaning tools and a hydrometer Iphoto).

CheCking 2

Check the battery for creckl end evidence of leekage. To chack tha electrolyte level in the battery. remove all vent caps. If Iha battery level Is low. add diltilled water until the level is above the cell plates. There Is an indicator in each cell to help you judge when enough water has been added. Do not overfill. Note: Some models may be aquipped wirh maintenence·free blJtteries which heve no provision

3

Fig . 1 .31

Evaporative Control Syltem IECS) canilter inltallatlon (Sac 36)

Ch apter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance lor need} for tldding wtlter. Also, some models mlfY btl tlquipped with 'Illnslucent tntrtlries so thB tllectrolyttl MYel Clln btl obstllVfld without IlImoving tiny vent caps. On thtlse btltteries, the IflveI should bfl blltWtlen the upper end lower lines. 4 Periodically check the specific gravity of the electrolyte with an hydrometer. This is especially important during cold weather. If the reading is balow the specified range. the battery should be recharged . Malntenance-Iree batteries have a built-in hydrometer whiCh indicates the battery state-ol·charge. 5 Check the tighlness 01 Ihe battery cable clamps 10 ensure good alecuical connections. If corrosion is evident, remove the cables Irom the battery terminals fa puller may be reQuiredl, clean them with a battery terminal brush, then reinstatl them {photosl. Corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a laver of petroleum j-eIiV or grease to the terminal and cable clamps aftar they ara assembled. 6 Inspect the entire length of eeeh battary cable for corrosion, crecks and frayad conductors. Replace the cables with new onas if they are damaged {Chaptar 51. 7 Make sure that the rubber protector over the positive terminel is not torn or missing. It should completely cover tha tarmlnal. 8 Make sure that the battary is securely mountad, but do not ovar· tighten the clamp bolts. 9 Tha battery case and caps should be kept clean and dry. If corro sion is evident, clean the battery as 8IO:plained in Step 12. 10 If the vahicle is not being used for an extended period, disconnact the banery cables and have the battary chargad approximataly every six weeks.

Cleaning 11 Corrosion on the battery hold-down components and inner fender panels can ba removed by washing with a solution of watar and bakIng soda. Once the area has been thoroughlv cleanelj, rinse It with clean wlter. 12 Corrosion on tha battary case and tarmlnals can a'so be removed with a solution of water and baking soda and a stiff brush. Be careful thaI none ollhe solution is splashed inlO your eyea or onto your akin

38 .1 Eye and hand protection, baking loda, petroleum jelly and tools reQuired lor battery maIntenance

lwear protactive glowal. 00 not allow any of the baking soda and water solution to get into the battery cells. Rinle tile battery thorou-ghly once it is clean. 13 Metal parts of the vehicle which have been damaged by apilled battery acid should be painted with a zlnc·based primer and paint. Do thia only after the ar88 has bHn thorou-ghly cleaned and dried.

Charging 14 As mentioned before. if the batterV'a specific gravity Is below the spacified amount, the battery must be recharged . 15 If the battery Is to remain In the vehicle dOting charging, discon· nect the cables from the battery to prevent damage to the electrical system. 16 When batteries are being cherged, hydrogen gas (which is vary explosive and flammablel is produced . Do not smoke or IIl10w en open fleme nell, a charping or e ff1Cflntly chargsd battery.. Also, do nor plug in the bettllry charperuntH the cOfIflflCrions haw bII8fI tmlcJ.II' rhe ber· tery oosrs. 17 The average tima necessary to charge a battary at the normal rate is from 12 to 16 hours (sometime, longer). Always charge the battery slowly. A Quick charge or boost charge is hard on a battery and will shorten its lile. Use a battery charger that is rated at no more than 1nO the amplhouf reting of the battery. 18 Remove all of the vent caps and cover tha hole. with a clean cloth to prevent the spattering of electrolyte. Hook the betlery charger leads to the battery posta (positive to po.ltive. negative to negative), then plug in the charger. Make sure It is set at 12 volts (6 volts on early models) if it hes a .etector switch. 19 Watch the battery closely during charging to make sura that it does not overheat. 20 The battery can be considared fully charged when it Is g8ulng freely and there is no Increase in specific gravity during three sl.lCcessiV'8 readings taken at houny intervals. Overheating 01 the battery during charging at normal charglog ratas, excessive oassing Ind continual low specific gravity readings are an Indication that the battery shO\.lId be replaced with a new one.

38 .5A Battery terminal corrosion usually appears as a white fluffy powder

38 .5C Cleaning the battery terminal post with a special tool

1-35

38.50

38.5B Removing the cabie from the battery terminal post {always remove the ground cable first and hook it up 181tl

Cleaning the battery cabla clamp

1

1-36

Ag. 1 .32

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chedr;lng the valve IIh ...·to·v!llv ••tl m cI •• nlnea

Fig. 1.3 3

ISec 401 39

Cooling Iyatl m u rv lclng tdralnlng, flu . hlng and refilling )

Periodically. the cooling system should be drained. flushed and refilled to replenish tha antifreeze mho:tur. and prevent the formation of rust and corrosion which can impair the performance of the cooling .Vltem and ultimllte'y cause engine damage. 2 At the lame time tha cooling system I. ,.rviced, all 00581 and the rediator cap should be Inspected and replaced if faulty. 3 Since .ntifreezela 8 poisonous solution, be careful not to spill any 01 the coolant mixture on the vehicle', peint or your own skin. If this happens, rin •• Immediately with plenty of clear water. Also, consult your Iccalautnarlt'.' about the dumping of antifreeze before draining the cooling syalem. In many areas. reclamation cenlers hIVe been leI up 10 collecl automobile oW and drained antifreeze/water mixtures rathel' than allowing these liquids to be added to the aewaga system. 4 With the engine cold, remove tha radiator cap. 5 Move a IIrge container under the radiator to catch the coolant mill' ture al it II drained. 6 [Xain the radiator. Most models sre equipped with a drain plug It the bottom of the redistor, which can be opened using a wrench to hold the fitting while the pet cock II turnad to the open poaition. If the drain has ellcessive corrosion and cannot be turned aasily. or if the radiator is not equipped with a drain, dilConnect the lower radiator note to drain the coolenL Be careful that none of the solution is splsshed onto your Ikln or into your eyes. 7 II so equipped, remove the engine block drain plugs. e On Iystems with I coollnt retervoir, dlaconnect the overflow hose and remove the reservoir. Flush It out with cleen wate r. 9 Place a water hose la common garden hose is flnef in the radiator filler nICk at the top of the radietor and flush the Iystam until tha wa ter runs clear at all drain points. 10 In levera cales of contamination or clogging of the radialor, remove it {lee Chapter 31 and reverse flush It. This involves simply in· sertlng the hose in the bottom radiator oUllel to allow the clear water to run againlt the normal flow, draining through the top. A radietOf repair shop should be consuhed if further cleaning or repair is necessary. 11 If the coolant is regularly dralnad and the Iystem refilled with tha correct antifreeze mixture, thare Ihould be no nMd to employ chemical cleanerl or delcallHI. 12 To rlfill the system, reconnect the radiator hose(sland install the drain plug. securely in the engine. Speciel thread'Maling tape (available alauto parts storesl should be used on the drein pluga installed In I he engine block. Install the coolant reservoir and the overflow hose where applicable. 13 On vehicles without a coolant latervoil', refill the system through the radiator filler cap until the coolant level ilabout one 111 inch below the Iiller neck. 14 On vehicla. with a reservoir, fill the radiator to the base of the filler neck and then add more coolant to the reservoir. 15 Run the engine until nannal operating temperature is reached. then with the engine idling, add coolant up 10 the correct level. 16 Always refill the system with a mixtura of high·quality antifreeze and water In the proportion called for on the antifree~e containe r or in your owner's manual. Chapter 3 alao contains information on anti·

Wlpar blade repleCtlment (Sec 4 11

freaze mixtures. 17 Keep a close wetch on the coolant level and the various cooling hoaes during the l irst lew miles of driving. Tighten tha hose clempI and/o r edd more coolant mixtura as necessary.

40

V.lvs cleara nce adjustment IF· .nd l ·head anglnel onlyl

Note: The F· and L·head engines ere tha only engines that reqwre periodic valve adjustments. AH ofhefengines used in the Jeep CJ series are equipped with hydraulic lifters, which are se/f-sdjusting. The valves on F· and l -head engines must be edjusted at the apecified intervels with the engine cold lat room temperalUrel. 2 Prior to adjustment. remove the valve cover on the side 01 the engine IF- and l-headl and the rocker arm cover IF·head). 3 Velve cleerence is measured by inserting II leeler gauge between the valve stem and,Jiher (F· and l ·heed) and rocker aIm and pUlhrod IF·head) with the liher on the heel or low portion of the camlheh. 4 Rotate the engine with a wrench on the crankshaft pulley unltl the valve il closed, then continue to rotele it approximately 90" further to make sure the lifter lion ths heel of the cam lobe. 5 Insert a feeler gauge betwaen the lifter and valve stem 01 pushrod and rocker arm to determine Ihe clearance . Compare the measured Clearance to the Specilicetions. 6 To edjust, loosen t he lilter or rocker arm locknut and turn the ad· lusting nut in or out to obtain tha specified clearance. Tighten the locknut While holding the adjusting screw so It won't turn . 7 Begin the checkIng and adjustment procedure at the number one cylinder and work beck to the number lour cylinder. After all the valves are adjusted. it is a good idea to go back end double,check the cleareoces to make sure that they have not changed during the lighten· ing of the adjustment screw. 8 Inspect the valve and rocker arm cover gasket surfaces to make lure they are in good condition. 11 there is any doubt. inslall a new gasket aher cleaning the surface. 10 prllclude the possibility of leak •.

41

Wlndl hield wip ers - Inspection and replac ement

The windshield wiper and blade assembly should be inspacted periodicelly for demage. loose components and cracked or worn blade elements. 2 Roed film can build up on the, wiper blades and affect their effi· ciency so Ihey should be washed regularly with a mild detergent solution. 3 The action of the wiping mechen ism can loosen the boIlS. nuts and lallsners so they should be checked and tightened. as necessary. at the same time the wiper blades are checked. 4 If the wiper blade elements ara cracked. worn or warped. they should be replaced With new ones. Raise the wiper erm away from Ihe windshield, push the arm end into the wiper blade end rotete the blade around the tip of the arm. Attach the new blade to the arm tip and rotate it into posit ion.

2A-1

Chapter 2 Part A General engine overhaul procedures Conlin.. Crankshaft - inspection. Crankshaft - removel •• Cylinder head - cleaning and inspection. Cylinder head - disassembly Cylinder head - reassembly Engine block - cleaning . . Engine block - inspection . . ...•... Engine disassembly - general information .••.•. • Engine overhaul - general information. .. . ... Engine rebuilding alternatives .••..... Engine removal - methods and precautions •• • •.•.

16

12 8 7 10 13 14

6

3 4

5

Genere' Information Included in this portion of Chepter 2 are general overhaul procedures common to all engines used in Ihe vehicles covered by this manuel. The materiel ranges from advice concerning how to prepare lor and approach en engine overhaul to detailed, step-by-step procedures cove,ing removeland installation of internal engine componan lS and the in.pectlOn of parts. Kaep in mind thet the information here should be used in conjunclion wllh one of the othar ParIS of Chapter 2 (depending on the particular engina involved), To accomplish a typical engine overhaul, rafer to the procedures in tha appropriate Part of Chapter 2 to remove the engine Irom the vehicle and begin engine disassembly. Once the ax ternal componenls have been removed, proceed to Chapter 2, Part A. lor the the remainder of the engine teardown. certain cleaniog and in· IpIICtion procedures and the installation of ,nternal parts. Return to the Ippropriate Part of Chapter 2 10 complete engine reassembly and inItall it In the vehicle. In order to aVOid confusion and reduce the possibility of errors, alt • pecifications and clearances for each particular engine are included In the appropriate Part of Chapter 2 - not Part A.

2 Repait ope-ratkml pOllible with the engine in th. vehicle Many major repall opelations can be accomplished without removing the engine from the vehicle. h is a very good idfla to clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the engine with soma type of pressure washer before any work I, begun. A clean engine will meka the job easiar and will prevent the

General information •.• • ..... Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul Main and connecting rod bearings - inspactlon Piston/connecting lod assembly - inspection Piston /connecting rod assembly - inSllltalion and bearing oil clearance check ... .... _ .•... Piston/connecting rOd assembly - removal Piston rings - Installation •.•. Rapsir operations possible with the engme in the vehicle Valves - servicing ........ _ .

1

20 17 15

,. 11 18

2

•

possibility of getting dirt into internal areas of the engine. Remove the hood (Chapter 12) and cover the fenders to provide es much working room as possible and to prevent damage to the painted surface. If oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can geoerally be made With the engine ,n the vehicle. The oil pan Qasket, the cylioder head gaskel(sJ. '"take and exhaust manifold gaskets, liming chain cover gaskets and the front and rear crankshaft oil seals are acceSSible With the engme in place. In the case of the rear crankshaft oil seal on the 150- and ISI-cubic-inch four·cylinder engines, the transmission, the Clutch components and the flywheel! drive plate must be removed first. Exterior engine components, such as tha water pump, tha startar motor, the alternator, the distributor, the fuel pump and the carburator. as well as tha intake and 8lIhaust manifolds, are Qutte eaSily ramoved 101 repair with the engine in plal;:e. Since the cylinder headls) can be removed without puning the 8Ogm8, valve component servicing can also be accomplished With the engine in the vehicle . Replacement, repairs to or inspection of the timing gears or sprockets and chain and the oil pump are all possible with the engine In placa. In extreme case. cauaed by a lack of necessary equipment, repall or replacement 01 piaton rings, pistons. connectIng rods and rod bear· ings and reconditioning of the cylinder bores is possible with the eng1ne in the vehicle. However. this practice is not recommended becaul8 of the cleaning and preparation work that muat be done to the components involved. Detailed removal, inspection. repair and installation procedures for the above mentioned components can be found In the appropriate Part of Chapter 2 or tha other Chapters In this manual.

2A

2A-2

Chapter 2 Part A General engine overhaul procedures

3 Engine overhaul - geMral Information II is nOI always easy to delermine when, or if, an engine should be completely overhauled, since a number of factors must be considered. High mileage is not necessarily an Indicetlon thet an overhaul is need· ed while low mileage. on the other hand, 'does not preclude Ihe need lor an overhaul. Frequency 01 servicing is probebly the single most im· portent consideration. An engine that nel reguler (and frequent) aU end Illter changel, as well as otner required maintenance, will moSI likely glVfl many thousands of miles of reliable service. Conversely, e neglected engine mey require an overheul very eerly In its lile. El(CeISIVe oil consumption is an indica tion tnat piston rings and/or valve guides ere in need 01 atlention (make sure thet oil leaks ere not responsible belore deciding tnat Ine rings end guides are bad). Heve a cylinder compression or leek-down test perfonned by an el(perienc· ed tune'up mechanic to determine lor certeln the el(tenl 01 the work reqUired. If the engme Is making obviOUS knocking or rumbling noises, the connecting rod end/or mein bearings are probebly et leu It. Check the oil pressure with e geuge (insteUed in place of the oil pressure sending uni t) and compare it to the Specifications. If it is el(tremely low, the bearings and/or oil pump are probebly worn out. Loss 01 power, rough runmng, el(celSive valve train noise end high luel consumption rates mey also point to the need for an overheul (especially if they ere all present et the leme timel. If e complete tune· up does not remedy the sltuetion, mejor mechenical worll. is the only 10lutlOn. An engine overheul generelly involves restoring the inlernel parts to the spedlicetions of a new engine. During en overheul, the piston rings are replaced end the cylinder wells ere reconditioned (rebored and/or honed). 11 a rebore is done, then new pistons ere elso required. The mem end connecting rod bearings ere repleced with new ones and, if necessary. the cl anksheft mey be reground to restore the journals. Generelly, the valves ere serviced es well. since they ere usuelly in le$lthan·perfeet condi tion al tnis polnl. While the engine is being over· heuled, other componenlS sucn el tne carburetor, the dislributor, the Itartel and the alternator can be rebuilt allo. The end result should be allke-new eflQlne that will gMt as many trouble-Iree miles es the originel. Belore beginning the engine overhaul, reed through the entire pro· cedure to lemilierize yourself With the scope end requirements 01 the job. Overheullng en engine is not that difficull, but it is time consum· ing. Plan on the vehicle being tied up for e minimum of two weeki, especially if perts must be taken to en eutomotive machine shop for repelr or recondItioning. Check on avellability 01 parts end make sure thet eny necessary special tools end equipment ere obteined in advance. Most work can be done with typicel snop hand 100110, elthough e number 01 precision meesuring tools ere required for Inspecting perts to deler· mine if they must be replaced. Olten e reputable eutomo tive machine shop will handle Ihe inspection of perts end offer advice concerning reeondltioning end replecement. Nota: Alwfl'l$ wait until the engine hilS beM comp/erely disassembled end 1111 compOflf!nts, especially rhe englnft block, httVe been inspected before deciding whllt service and repair opera tions must be perfofffled by lin IIlJtOmotive machine shop. SII'lCe the block's condition will be the mejor lector to consider when determ,ning whether to OVflrheul the origineJ engme or buy e rebuilt one. never purchase parts or have machine work done on other com· ponents unlil the block nes been tnoroughly inlpected. As e gene rei rule, time is Ihe primary cost of an overhaul, so it does not pay to In· stell worn or sub·standard petls. As a Iinel note. to ensure mel(imum life end minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine. everything mUBt be allembled with cere in a spollessly cleen environment.

4

Englna rebuilding ahem.tllres

The home mechanic ;10 faced wilh a number of op tions when per. forming an engine overhaul. The deciSion to replece the engine block, piston/rod essemblies and crenkshaft depends on a number of fectors, with the number one consideretion being Ihe condition 01 the block. Other consideretions are cost, access to mechine shop facililies, perts eveileblllty, lime required to complete the project end el(perience.

Some 01 the rebuilding allemallves include: Individual parts - If the insp«tion procedures ffIVfIal that fhe engine bfock and most engme components are in reusable condition, purchasing individuIII parts may be the most economical alterna tive. The block, crankshaft and piston/rod assemblies should all be inspected carefuNy. Even If the block shows/ittfe wear. the cylindar bores should recaiVfla finish hone; a job fOl an automotive mechine shop. M . .ter kit (cranksheft kitl - This rabuild package usually consists of a reground crankshaft and a matched set of pistons lind connect· mg rod$. The pistons will already be installed on the connectmg rods. Piston rings and thll nllCaSSllry bearings mayor may not be includlld In the k;" These kits lire commonly available for standard cylinder bores, as WflN liS for engine blocks which haW been bored to a regular oversize. Short block - A shon block conSis ts of lin engine block w ith a crankshaft and pistonhod assemblies already installed. A ll new beal(ngs are incorp0f'll,ed lind all ClllalllnClls will be corrllCt. Depltnding on where t he short block is purchesed, II guaf'llntee mey bllmcluded. Thfl IIxisting camshaft, valve train components. cylinder head/s) lind ax· temlll parts Clln be boltlJd t o the short block with little 01 no machme shop work necessary. Long block - A long block consists of a short block plus oil pump, oil pan, cylinder head(s), rocker aIm cover/sl, cemshaft and villva train components, timing gBlJfS or sprockets end chain lind timing gearA:hain ~r. All components 11M ins talled with new bearings. seills and gaskets ~ted throughout. The inSlllNlltion of fTIIJnifolds and ex teffllll parts is aU that is neceSSllry. Sofflll form of guaranree is USUII/Iy included With the purchase. Give carelulIhoughl10 which allematlve IS best lor you and discuss Ihe Silualion with localaUIOmOlive machme shops. auto parts dealers or dealership pansmen before ordering or purchasijng replacameO! pans.

5

EngIne ramoval -

methods end preceutionl

If It has been decided Ihet an engine must be removed for overhaul or mejor repeir work, certein prelimmery steps should be teken. loceting a suitat1le work eree is elltremely Important. A shop is, of course, the most desireble place to work. Adequate work spece along with Slorege spece for the Vflhicle is very important. lIa shop or garaQi! is not eveilable, at tne very least e flat level, clean work surlace made of concrete or asphalt Is reqUired. Cleaning the engine compertment and engine prior to remove! Will help keep tools cleen end organized. An engine hoist or A-Ireme will elsa be necessary. Meke sure thet the equipment is reted in ellcess of the combined weight of the engine and its eccessories. Salety Is of primary importance. considering Ihe po tential nezaros Involved in lifting the engine out of the vehicle. If the engine is being Mmoved by e novice, a helper should be eveilable. Advice and eid from someone more 8lCperienced would elso be helpful. There ere many instances when one person cennot simulteneously per· form ell 01 the operationl required when lilting the engine out 01 tne vehicle. Plan the operetion ahead 01 time. Arrange for or obtein eM of the tools and equipment you will need pflor to beginning the job. Some of the equipment necllssery to perlorm engine removal and instellallon seleIy end with relative eese ere (in eddition to en engine hoist) e heavy· duty tloor jack. compillte sets 01 wrenches end sockets al described In the fronl of th is manuel, wooden blocks end plenty of rags end cleaning solvent l or mopping up the ineviteble spills. If the hoist Is to be rented, make sure thet you errenge for it in edvence and perform beforehand all of the operetions possible without It. This will seve you money and lime. Plan for tna vehicle to be ou t of use lor e considereble emount of time. A machine snap will be leq';nre(l to perform some of the work which the home mechenic cannot eccomplisn due 10 e leck 01 speciel equipment. These shops often nave e busy SChedule so it would be wile to consult them prior to removing tne engine in order 10 accurately eSlimete the amount of time required to rebuild or repeir componentl thet mey need work. Alweys use elltreme clutlon when removing and installing the engine; serious injury can result from cere less ections. Plan ehead. Teke your lime end e job of I his nature. although mejor, cen be accomplished luccessfully.

Chapter 2 Part A General engine overhaul procedures

,

' c..

Fig. 2.1

Measuring the In.telled velve .prlng height with e .teel rule ISec 7)

6 Engine dlse...mbly - gener.1 Information It i. much eesler to dismantle end repair the engine if it is mounted II portable· type eng ina stand. For a reasonable fee, these stands tan ohen be rented from an equipment rental yard. Bafore the engine it mounted on II stand, the Ilywheelklriveplata should be removed from the engine (reler to the appropriata Section). II a stand is not evailable, it is possible to dism8fltle the engine with it blocked up on a sturdy workbenCh or on the floo r. Be extra cereful not to tip or drop the engine when working without a stand. I! you are obtaining a factory replacement or reconditioned engine. all external components must coma off first - Just as they will if you .,. doing II complete engine overhaul yourself. These include: on

Altemator and brackats Distributor and spark plug wires Thermostat and cover Oil filter Cerburetor Inteke and exhaust menifolds Water pump Engine mount brackets Clutch and flywheel or driveplate

NOli: When removing the external components from tha engine, pey close ertention to details that trnIy be helpful Of important during in· 'teHation. look for the corfllct positioning of gaskets. seals. $plIcers. pins, washafS, bolts and othllr small items. If you are obtaining what is termed a short block, which consists of the block, crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods all assem· bled, then the cylinder headls), oU pan and oil pump will have to be removed also. Remove all of the components accordIng to the procedures describ· ed in the appropriall Chapllrs 01 this manual.

7

2A-3

Cylinder head -

dl.a.sembly

Nota: New and rebuilt cylinder heads are commonly available for most engines at dealerships and auto /HrtS stOff1S. Due to the fact tmt SOm6 !J{}eCieHzed tools are necessary for tha disassembly and inspection pro· cedures. end replacement perts may not be readily avaiJeble, it mey be more practical and economical for the home mechanic to purchase e replacement head (or haads) rather than taking the tlma to disassem· ble, inspect and recondition the original head(s).

1 Cylinder head disassembly involves removal and disassembly 01 tha intake and exhaust valves and their related components. If so equipped, remove the rocker arm nuts/bohs, beHs lor pivots) end rocker arm •. Lebel the parts or 1I0re them separately so they can be reinstalled In their original locations.

7.3 Use a valve spring compresso r to compress the springs, then remove the keepers from the valve lIem

2 Bafore the valvas are removed, arrange 10 label and .tore them, along with their related components, so they can be kept separete and reinstalled In the same valve guides they are removed from. Also, measure the valve spring In.talled height !for each valve) and compare it to the Specilications. If It i. greatar than apecified, the valve .eats and val\le faces need attention. 3 Compre" the valve .pring on the lirll valve with a .pring compressor and remove the kaapars Iphoto). Carefully release the valve spring compressor and ramove the retainer (or rotator), the .hlald III so equipped), the springe, the seal lor 011 deflector), the sprIng lIIat end the vat\le from the head. II the valve bindeln the guide {won't pull through), puah it back into the head and deburr the area around the keeper groove with a fine lile or whetstone. 4 Repeat the procedure for the remaining valve$. Remember to keep all the part. for each \lalve tooether so they can be reinstalled In the same locations. 5 Onca the \lalves have been removed and .afely stored, the head should be thoroughly cleaned and inspected. If e complete engine ova/haul is baing done, finish the angine diNnembly procedure. before ooginning the cylinder head cleaning end inspection proce".

8

Cylinder head - cleaning and Inspection

Thorough cleaning of the cyWnder head and related valve train components, followed by a detailed In.pection, will enable you to decide how much valve service won.. must be dona during the engine ovartlaul.

Cleaning 2 Scrape eway all traces of old gasket m.uerlal and sealing com· pound from the head gaskllt, intake manifold and exhaust manllold teet· ing surfacas. 3 Remove any built·up ICale from around tha COOlant passages. 4 Run a stiff wire brush through the oH hole. to remove any deposits that may have formed in them. 5 It is a good Idea to run en appropriate Ilze tap Into each of the threaded holes to rem ova eny corro.ion or thread sealant that mey be present. If compressed air i. available, Ute it to clear the holes of debris produced by this operation. 6 Clean the exhaust and intake manifold .tud threads in a .imHar manner with an appropriate size die. Clean the rocker arm pivot bott or stud threads with a wire brush. 7 Next, cleao the cylinder head with solvent and dry it thoroughly. Compressed air will speed the drying proce.. and ensure that all holes and recessed areas are clean. Nota: D«arbonizing cfHImicals are available and may prove I'8ry useful when cleaning cylindar hfled8IJnd vlllvft tlllin components. Tn.y a",1<'ery caustic and should be u3«/wirh caution. Be sure to 'oHow the instructions on the con tainer. 8 Cleen the rocker arma, pivot. and pu.hrod. with so""eot and dry them thoroughly. Compressed air will apeed the drying procell end can be used to clean out the oil passage'.

2A

2A-4

8.20 II

Chapter 2 Part A General engine overhaul procedures

Measurll the valve Item dh!JIT'ItIUtr

tnr.e

points

Fig. 2 .2 Us • • Imlll no_ g.oga to determine the In.lda dlillnetet at the vl lv. guide. (the g~ II thIn mNlWrMl whh II micrometer) (Sec 8 )

B.21A Measure the tree length 01 each valve spring with. diel or Vernier caliper

Ag. 2 .3

A dlal ln dlCelor un llao be

used to determine the vllv. Item·toguld. cIo.. ranee (Sec 81

9 Clean ell the velve springs, keepera. retlliners, rotators, shields and spring .eaU with solvent end dry tnem thoroughly. 00 the perts from one valve at • time so no mlJ(ing 01 pert. between vetves occurs. 10 Scrape off any heavy deposits thai may h8Vtl formed on the valves, Ihen UIB I motorized wire brush to remove deposits from the valve heed. and atem •. Agein, make lure the valv8' do not get mixed up.

Inspection Cylinder head 11 Inspect the head very clllefully for creck!;, evidence of coolant leeklgl and other dlmlge. II creck. are found, a new cylinder heed should be obtlined. 12 U.ing I streightedge Ind feeler gauges. check the head gSlket mlting .urflce for warpage. II the head i. warped beyond the limIts given in the Specifica tions, it cln be re.uffacad It an automotive machine shop. 13 EXlmine the valve aeats in "ch of the combustion chambers. II thay are pitted, cracked or burned, the heed will requi re vllve servici thlt Is beyond the scope of the home mechanic. 14 M"sure tha inside diametars of the valve guides (at both ands and the center of aach guide) with I .mall hole gauge and a O-to-l-Inch micrometer. Record the measurements for future reference. These measurements, along with the valve .tem diameter measurements, will enable you to compute the valve stem-to-guide clearances. These clearences, when compared to the Specifications, will be one flctor that will detennine the extent of valve lefVice work. required. The guides are measured at the ends and . t the center to determine il they are worn in a bell-mouth pattetn (mora weer at the endsl. II they are. guide reconditioning or replacement Is necessary. AI.n alternative, use I dial Indicator to measure the Iiteril movement of each valve stem with the valve In the guide and approximately 1116-lnch off the seat (see the accompanying illustrat ion).

8 .2 1B Check each valve spring for squareness

Fig . 2 .4 The margin w idth on each v. tve mUll be •• • peclfled (If no m argin exl'lI, the v.lv. mull b. replaced) (Sec: 81

Rocklr arm component. 15 Check the rocker Irm Ilces (thll contact the pushrod ends and valve stems) for pits. wear and rough spots. Check the pivOI conlact areas as well. 16 Inspecl the pushrod ends for sculling and excessive wear. RoH the pushrod on a flal surface. such as a piece of glass, to datarmine II it Is bant. 17 Any damaged or excessively worn parts must be repllced with new ones. V.tv.s 18 Carefully inspect each valve lace for cracks, pits and bumed spots. Chack Ihe valve slem Ind neck for cracks. Rotate the valve and chack for any obvious indication Ihat it is benl. Check the end 01 the lIem lor pits and e)lcessive wear. The pre.ence of any 01 these condilion. indicates the need for valve service by a properly eqUIPped profeSSIOnal 19 M easure the width of the valva margin (on each valvellnd com· pete it to the Specifications. Any valve with a margin narrower than specif ied will have to be replaced with a new one. 20 Measure Ihe valve stem diameter (photo). Note: The tlxhaust lIlJIV'Is ustld in the GM lSI cu fn four-cylinder engine have tapered stems and are approximattlly O.OOl';nch larger et the tip end than at thtl head tlnd. By subtracting the stem diameter1rom the corresponding vBlve guide dilmeter, the vBlve stem·to-guide cle8fance is ohtBined. Compare the fesuits to the SpecificBtions. If the ttem·to·guide clearance is gr88ttf than specified, the guides will hIVe 10 be lecondltloned Bnd new valva may hIVe to be installed, depending on the condition of the old OI'l81. Valve component. 21 Check each valve spring for we8f Ion the ends) and piU. Me8Surt the I reelength (photo) Bnd compare it to the SpecifICations. Any sprif'l9l that are short er than speclfied have sagged and should not be reused_ Stand the spring on B lIat lurlace and check it for squBfeness Iphotol.

2A-5

Chapter 2 Part A General engine overhaul procedures

10.6 Checking the valve stem seals IGM 151 cu in four-cylinder engine only) for leekage

11 .2 A special tool is required to remove the ridge hom the top of each cylinder

22 Check the spring retainers (or rotators) and keepers for obvious weer and crecks. Any Questionable parts should be replaced with new ones, as extensive damage will occur in the event of failure during engine operetion. 23 If the inspection process indicetes that the valve components are in generally poor condillOn and worn beyond the limits specified, which is usually tha case in an engine that is being overhauled, reassemble the valves in the cylinder head and refer to Section 9 for valve servicing recommendations. 24 If the inspection turns up no excessively worn pens, and if the valve faces and seats are In good condition, the valve train componentS can be reinstalled in the cylinder haad without major sarvicing. Refer to the appropriate Section for cylinder head reassembly procedures.

9

Valv.s -

servicing

Because of the complex nature of the job and the special tools and equipment needed, servicing of the valves, the valve seats and the valve guides (commonly known as a 'valve Job'lls best leh to a professional. 2 The home mechanic can ramove and disassemble the head, do the initial cleaning and Inspection, then reassemble and deliver the head to a dealer service department or a reputable automotiva machine shop for the actual valve servicing. In the case 01 an F- or L-head engine, the block will also have to be taken to the mechine shop for valve ser· vice worll:. Refer to Chapter 2F lor'\he procedure to follow when removing the valvas from the block. 3 The dealer service department, or automotive machine shop, will remove the valves and springs, recondition or replace the valves and valve seats, recondition the valve guides, check and replace the valve springs, spring retainers or rotBlors and keepers (as necessary), replace the valve seals with new ones, reassemble the valve components and make sure the installed spring height IS correct. The cylinder head gasket surface will also be resurfaced if it Ie warped. 4 After the valve job has been performed by a professional, the head will be In like-new condition. When the head is returned, be sure to clean it again, very thoroughly {before installation on the engine) , to remove any metal particles and abrasive grit that may still be present from the valve service or head resurfacing operations. Use compress· eel air, if available, to blowout all the oil holes and passages.

10 Cylinder head - rea..embly Regardlss, of whether or not the head was sent to an automotive machine shop for valve servicing, make sure it Is clesn before beginning reassambly. 2 If the head was sent out for valve servicing, the valves and related components will alreadv be in place. 3 Lay all the spring sealS In position, then lubricate and install new leals lor deflectors) on each 01 the valve guides ($iM-cylindef 8nd VB angines only) . On 811 fOUf' cylinder engines the lIIals are installed in the lower grooves in the valvas altar the aprlngs are com· pressed (lubricate the saals before installationl. V6 engines are not

11.6 Checking connecting rod end play with a feeler gauge

eqUipped with seals. 4 Nellt, install the velves(taking care not to damage the new lealsl, the springs, the shields iii so equipped I, the retainars lor rotators ) and the keepers. Note: On V6 angines, the spring must be in· ISttlNed with the clolSefy ISpaced coils neMt to the hud. Coat the valve stems with clean moly·based grease 101 engine assembly lubel before sUpping them into the guides. When compre..ing the springs with the valve spring compressor, do not let the retalnel"l contect the valve guide seals or deflecton! WM-qlinder and VB enginelS only). Make certain that the keepe rs are securely locked in their retaining grooves. 5 Double check the Installed valve spring height. If it was correct before disassembly, It should still be within the specified limits. 6 On fouf-cylinder engines only, check the valve lIem seal, with a vacuum pump and adapter (photol. A properly installed seal should not leak. 7 Install the rocker arms and tighten the Dohs/nuts to the specified torque. Be sure to lubricate the pivots with moly-based grease or engine assembly lube.

11

Pillon/conOKting rod a ..embl,. -

removal

Prior to removing the piston/connecting rod assemblies, remove the cylinder l:iaed(sl end the oil pan by raferring to the appropriete Sections. 2 Using a ridga reamer, completely remove the ridge at the top of each cylinder (follow the manufacturer's instructions provided with the ridge reaming tool1lphoto). Failura to remove the ridge before at· tempting to remove the piston/connecting rod assemblies w1ll result In piston breakage. 3 With the engine in the upside-down position, remove the 011 pick· up tube and oil pump from the bottom of the engine block. 4 Before the connecting rods are removed, check me end playas follows. Mount e dial indicator with its lIem in line with the crankshaft and touching the .ida of the number ona cylinder connecting rod cap. S Push tha connecting rod forward, as far as possible, and zaro the dial indicator. Nellt, pUlh the connecting rod all the way to the rear and check the reading on the dial indicator. The distance that it moves is the end play. If the end play ellceeds the service limit, a new con necting rod will be required. RepeBl the procedure for the remaining connecting rod •. 6 An altemative method is to slip feeler geuges between the con· necting rod and the cranbhait throw until the play is removed (photo). The and play is then equal to the thickness 01 the feeler gauge!s). 7 Check the connecting rods and connecting rod caps for identification marks. If they are not plainly marked , Identify each rod and cep using a small punch to make the appropriete number of indentations to indicate the cylinders they are associated with. S loosen aBCh 01 the connecting rod cap nulS approximately 1/2 tum each. Note: On F- end ( -head engines, first remove the stamped locking nuts 8nd discard t~m. Remove the number one connecting rod cap and bIIaring Insert. Do not drop the bearing insert out 01 the cap. Slip a short length of plastic 01 rubber hose over each connecting rod cap bolt [to protect the crankShaft tournai and cylinder wall when the piston is removedl (photo) and push the connecting rodfplSlon

2A

2A-6

Chapter 2 Part A General engine overhaul procedures

11 .8 To prevent damage to the crank'hlft journels and cylinder walll, slip ,8(:tlo"1 of hose over the rod bolu before femovlng Ihe pistons

Ag. 2.6

CheciUng

cr~bh.ft

and pllIY

12 . 5

Checking cranuhalt lind pley

with 8 feeler gauge fGM 151 cu in fourcylinder engine shownl

13.1 Using pller. to remove II lOft plug from the block

with. d/IIIlndlcllt(N" Is..: '21

14.4A A telescoping gauge cen be used to determine the cylinder bore diamater

fl1---- • ----\I

11--'--Y1 , --1:-1

14.8 The gauge i, then measured with II micrometer to determine the bore size in Inche.

fig. 2 .6 Measur. the diameter of each cylinder ;,..t under the . . .t ridge fAI. It the ceflter (8) end It the bottom Ie) (Sec '4)

ISlembly out through the top of tne engine. Use. wooden tool to push on Ihe upper beering Insert In the connecting rod. If resistance is felt , double-check to make sure Ihat 811 of the ridge was removed from the cylinder. 9 Repeat the procedure for the remainIng cylinders. After removel. ra88semble the connecting rod caps and bearing Inserts in their respec tive connecting rods and install the cap nutt linger tight. Leaving the old bearing Inserts In place until raassembly win help porevant the con oectlng rod belN'ing surfacas Irom being accidentally nicked or gouged.

Before begInning this procedure, the preliminary steps outlined in Chapter. 2B. 2e, 20, 2E or 2F las approprlateJ must be completed. 2 II not already done. remove the piston assemblies from the engine

Ag. 2 . 7 The cyllnd ... hone should leave e cross-hatch panem with the lines intersecting It Ipporoxlmately I 60· Ingle ISec 141

block. es described in Section '1 . Be sure to mark each connecting rod and bearing cap so they will be properly mated during reassembly. 3 Before the c rankshalt is ramoved. c heck the end playas follows. Mount a dial indiCator with the stem in line with the crankshaft and just touching one of the crank throws (see accompanying illustrationl. 4 Push the crankshaft all the way to the rear and lero the diel Indicator. Next. pry the crankshaft to the front 8S far as possible and check the reading on the dial indicator. The distance that it moves is the end play. If it is greater Ihan specified. c heck the crankshaft thrust surfaces lor wear. If no wear is apparent. new main bearings should correct the end play. 5 II e dial indicator is not available. feeler gauges can be used. Gently pryor push the crankshaft all the way to the Iront of the engine. Slip feeler gauges between the crankshaft and the Iront lace 01 the thrust main beering Iphoto] to determine the clearance (which is equlvslent to crankshaft end play).

Chapter 2 Part A General engine overhaul procedures

14.7

Honing a cylinder with a surfacing

hon.

15.4 Cleaning the piston ring grooves with a piston ring groove cleaning tool

6 Loosen each of the main bearing cap bolts lf4 of a turn at a time, until they can be removed by hand. Chack tha main baarlng cap. to laa if they are marked as to their locations. They are usually numbered consecutively (beginning wilh 1) from the front of the engine to the raar. If they are nOt, mark them with number stamping dies or a center punch Iphotol. Most main bearing caps have a cast-in arrow, which points to the front of the engine.. 7 Gently tap the caps with a soft-fsced hammar, then separate them from the engine block. If necesaary, use the main bearing cap bolta .. levers to remove the caps. Try nOI 10 drop the bearing insert If It comes out WIth the cap. a Carefully hft the crankshaft out of the engine.. It is a good idea to have an assistant available. sinca the crankshaft is quite heavy. With the bearing inserts in place in the engine block ancMn the main bearing caps, return the caps to Iheir respective locations on the engine block and tighten the bolts finger tight.

13

Engine block - cleaning

Remove the soft plugs from the engine block. To do thia, knock the plugs into the block lusing a hammer and punch), then grasp them with large pliers and pull them back through the holes Iphotol. 2 Using a gasket scraper, remove all traces of gasket material from !he engine block. Be very callful not to nick Of gouge the gasket saal Ing surfaces. 3 Remove the main bearing ca~s and separata tha bearing Inserts from the caps and the engine block. Tag the bearings according to which cylinder they removed from (iwd whether they were in the cap or the block) and set them aside. 4 Using a hell wrench of the appropriate size. remove the Ihreaded 011 gallery plugs from the front and back of the block. S If the engine is edremely dirty, it should be taken to an automotive machine shop to be steam cleaned or hot tanked. Any bearings left In the block Isuch as the camshaft bearings) will be damaged by the cleaning process. so plan on having new ones installed whila the block " al the machine shop. e After the block is returnad, clean all oil holes and oil galleries one more time (brushes for cleaning oil holes and galleries are available at most auto parts stores). Flush the passages with warm water until the water runs clear, dry the block thoroughly and wlpa all machined surfaces with a light, rust -preventative oil. If you have access to compressed air, use it to speed the drying process and to blowout all the 011 holes and galleries. 7 If the block i, not edremely dirty or sludged up. you can do an edequate cleaning job with warm soapy water and a stiff brush. Take plenty of time and do a thorough job. RegBfdless of the cleaning method used, be very sure to thoroughly clean all oil holes and galleries, dry !he block completely and coat all machined surfaces with light oil. S The threaded holes in the block must be clean to ensure accurate torque readings during reassembly. Aun the proper size tap into each of the holes to remove any rust, cOfrosion, thraad .ealant or sludga and 10 restOle any damaged threads. If possible. u.e compressed ai, 10 clear the hole. of debris produced by this operetion. Now is a good time 10 thoroughly clean the threeds on the head bolts and the main bearing cap bolts as wei!.

2A-7

15.10 Checking the pi.ton ring side cle.rance with. feeler g.uge

9 Reinstall the mein bearing cap. and tightan the bolts finger tight. 10 After coating the sealing surfaces of tha new soft plugs with a good quality galket sealel, Install them in the angine block. Make lure they are driven in straight and saated properly Of leakaga could result. Special tools are available for this purpose. but equally good results can ba obtained using a large socket (with an outside diameter slightly larger than the outside diameter of the soft plug) and a larga hammer. 11 If the engine is not going to be reassembl ed right away, cover it with a large plastic tresh bag to keep it clean .

14

Engine block - In",.etlan

Thoroughly clean tha angine block as described in Section 13 and double-check to make lure that the ridge at the top of each cylinder has been completely removed. 2 Visually check tha block for cracks, rull and COrTosion. Look fOI stripped thread, in the threadeCt holes. It Is also a good idaa to hava the block checked for hidden cracks by an automotive machine shop that has the special equipment to do thl. typa of work. If defects are found. have the block repaired , if possible. or replaced . 3 Check the cylinder bores for scuffing and scoring. 4 Using the appropriate precision measuring tools. maasure each cylinder's diameter at tha top lJust undar the rldoel. centel and bottom of the cylinder bore. panlfefto the crankshaft allil (photosl. Nallt, measure each cylinder's diameter at the sarna locations across the crankshaft allis. Compare the results to the Specifications. If the cylinder walls are bedly scuffed or .cored, or if they ara out-of-round or tapered beyond the limIts given In tha Specifications, have the engine block febored and honed at an automotive machina shop. If a rebore is done. oversize pistons and ring' will be required al well. 5 If the cylinders are in reasonably good condition and not worn to the outside of the limits, and If the piston-to-cylinder clearancas can be maintained properly, then they do not have to be reborad; honing is all that is necessary. 6 Before honing the cylinders, Instatl the main bearing caps {without the bearings! and tighten the bolt. to the specified torque. 7 To perform the honing operation, you will need the proper size flellible hone (with fine stonasl, plenty 01 light oil or honing 011, some rags and an electric drill motor. Mount the hone In the drill motor, compress the stones and Ilip tha hone into the first cylinder (photo!. lLrbricate the cylinder thoroughly, turn on the drill and move tha hone up and down in the cylinder at a pace which wilt produce a fine crOll· hatch pattem on the cylindef" walla (with the crOll-hatch lines intersecting 81 approximately a 60" anglel. Be sure to use planty of lubricant and do not taka off eny more meterial than is absolutely necessary to produce the desired fin ish. Do not withdraw the hone from tha cylinder while it i, running. Instead, Ihut off the drill and continue moving the hone up and down in the cylinder until it comas to a completa stop, then compress tha stone, and withdraw the hone. Wipe tha o~ oot of Ihe cy linder and repeat the procedura on the remaining cylinders. Remember, do not remo .... toO much material from the cylindar Willi. If you do not have the tools or do not desire to perform the honing operation, mosl eutomotlve mechine shops will do It for a reasonable

f,.

2A

2A-8

Chapter 2 Part A General engine overhaul procedures

8 After tha honing job Is complate. chemfer the top edges of the cylinder bores with e smell file so the rings will not catch when the pistons ere instelled. 9 Next, the entire engine block must be thoroughly washed again with werm, soepy water to remove all traces of tha abrasive grit produced during tha honing operation. Be sure to run e brush through ell oil holes and galleries end flush them with running watllr. After rinsing, dry the block and apply a coet of Ught rust preventative oil to all machined surfaces. Wrap the block in a plastic trash bag to keep it clean and set it aside until reassembly.

15

Piston/connecting rod a... mbly - In'pection

Before tha inspactlon proceas can be carried out, the piston /connecting rod assemblies must be cleaned and the original piston rings removed from the pistons. Note: Always usa naw piston (ings when the engine is rellssambl&d. 2 Using a piston ring installation tool, carefully remove the rings from the pistons. Do not nick or gouge the pistons in the process. 3 Scrape all traces 01 carbon from the top (or crown) 01 the piston. A hand-hald wire brush or a piece of fine emery cloth can be used once the majority of the deposits have been scraped away. Do not, under any circumstances, use a wira brush mounted in a drill motor to remove deposits from the pistons. The piston material Is soft and will be eroded awey by the wire brUSh. 4 Use a piston ring groove cleaning tool to remove any carbon deposita from the ring grooves. If e tool is not available, a piece broken off the old ring will do the job. 8e very careful to remove only tha carbon deposits. Do not remove any metal and do not nick or scretch the aides 01 the ring grooves (photo). 5 Once the deposits have been removed, clean the piston/rod assemblies with solvent and dry them thoroughly. Make sure that the oil hole in the big end of the connecting rod and the oil return holes in the back sides of the ring grooves are clear. 6 II the pistons are not damaged or worn excessively, and if the engine block is not rebored, new pistons will not be necessary. Normal piston wear appears as even vertical wear on the piston thrust surfaces and slight looseness of the top ring in its groove. New piston rings, on the other hand, should always be used when an engine is rebuilt. 7 Carelully inspect each piston for cracks around the skin, at the pin bosses and at the ring lands. 8 Look lor scoring and scuffing on the thrust faces 01 the skirt, holes in the piston crown and burned areas at the edge of the crown. If the skin is scored or scuffed, the engine may have baen suffering from overheating and/or abnormal combustion, which caused e)(cesslvely high operating temperaturas. Tha cooling and lubrication systems should be checked thoroughly. A hole in the piston crown, an extreme to be sure, is an indication that abnormal combustion (preignition) was occurring. Burned areas at the edga of the piston crown are usually evidence of spark knock (detonation). If any of the above problems axlst, the causes must be corrected or the damage will occur again. 9 Corrosion of the piston (evidenced by pitting! indicates that coolant is leaking into the combustion chambar and/or the crankcase. Again, the cause must be corrected or the problem may persist in the rebuilt engine. 10 Measure the piston ring side clearence by laying a new piston ring in each ring groove and slipping a feeler gauge in besida it (photo). Cheek the claarance at three or four locations around each groove. Be sura to use the correct ring for each groova; they are different. If the side claarance is greater than specified, naw pistons andlor rings will hava to be used. 11 Check the piston-to-bore clearanca by maasuring the bore (see Section 14) and tha piston diametar (photo). Make sure that tha pistons and bores are correctly matChed. Mea!ura the piston across the skirt, on the thrust faces lat a 900 angle to the piston pin!. directly in line with the centar of the pin hole. Note: On V6 engines, make the meesurement Tl4-inch below the oil ring groove. Subtract the piston diameter from the bore diameter to obtain tha claarance. In the case of an F- or L-head engine, the manufacturer also recommends th e following alternative method of determining piston·to-bore clearance. Obtain a piece of O.OO3-inch thick feeler gauge stock which is 3f4-inch

Wide. Feeler gauge stock comes in 12 ·inch lengthS and is ganerally available at automotive parts stores. Insert the piston into the cylindar bora upside-down with the fealar gauge elCtanding the full length of the piston on the thrust side (opposite the slod. Anach a suitable scala to tha feeler gauga and measure the amount of force necessary to remove it from between the piston and bore. The scale should register between five and ten pounds. If the pull is excess iva, a slightly smaller piston or additional honing of the cylinder bore is necassary. Too linle pull indicates the need for a larger piston. If it is greater than specified, tha block will have to be reborad and new pistons and rings installed. Check th e piston-to-rod clearanca by twisting tha piston and rod in opposite directions. Any noticeable play indicates that there is e)(cessive wear, which must be corrected. The piston/connecting rod assemblies should be taken to an automotive machine shop to have new piston pins installed and tha pistons and connecting rods rebored. 12 If the pistons must be removed from the connecting rods , such as when new platons mUlt be installed, or If the piston pins have too much play in them, they should be taken to an automotive machine shop, While they are there, it would be convenient to have the connecting rods checked for bend and twist, as automotiva machine shops have special equipment for this purpose. Unless new pistons or connecting (ods must be instelfed, do not disassembla the pistons (rom the connecting rods. 13 Check the connecting rods lor cracks and other damage. Tamporarily remove the rod caps, lift oUl the old bearing insarts, wipe tha rod and cap bearing surfaces clean and inspect them for nicks, gouges and scratches. After checking the rods, replace the old bearings, slip the caps into place and tighten the nuts finger tight.

16

Crankshaft - Inspection

Clean the crankshaft with solvant and dry it thoroughly. 8e sure to clean the oil holas with a still brush and flush them with solvent. Check the main and connecting rod bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring, pitting and cracks. Check the remainder of tha crankshaft for cracks and damage. 2 Using an appropriata siza micrometer. measure the diamater of the main end connecting rod journals (photo) end compare the results to the Specifications. 8y measuring the diameter at a number of points around the journal's circumference, you will be able to determine whether or not the journal is worn out-ol-round. Take the measurement at each end 01 the journal, near the crank throw, to determine whether the journal is tapered. 3 If the crankshaft journals ara damaged, tapered, out-of-round or worn beyond the limits given in the Specificatioins, have the crankshaft reground by a reputable automotive machine shop. Be sure to use the correct undersize bearing inserts if the crankshaft is reconditioned. 4 Refer to Section 17 and examine the main and rod baa ring inserts. If the bearing inserts and journals are all in good condition, do not decide to reuse tha bearings until the oil clearancas have been checked.

17

Main end connecting rod beerlngs - Inspection

Evan though the main and connecting rod bearings should be replacad with new ones during the engine overhaul, the old baarlngs should ba ratained for close e)(amination, as they may reveal valuable information about the condition of the engine. 2 Bearing failure occurs mainly because of lack of lubrication, the presence of din or other foreign panic las, overloading the engine and corrosion. Regardless 01 the cause of bearing failure, It must be corrected before the engine is reassembled to prevent it from happening again. 3 When e)(amining the bearings, iemove them from the engine block, the main bearing caps, the connecting rods and the rod caps and lay them out on a clean surfaca in the same general position as their loca· tion in the engine. This will enable you to match any noted bearing problems with tha corresponding crankshaft journal. 4 Din and other foreign particles get into the engine in a variety of ways. If may be left in the engine during assembly, or it may pass through filters or breathers. It may get into the oil, and from there into the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations end normal anglne wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left in angina com-

Chapter 2 Part A General engine overhaul procedures

15. 11 Maasura tha piston dlamatar diractly in lina with tha piston pin hola f.ICc.pt on V6 engines}

16.2 Measura the diametar 01 aach crankshalt journal at aaveral pointJ to datact taper and out-ol-round conditions

2A-9

, 8 .3A Usa tha pilton to SQuare up tha ring in the cylinder prior to checking the ring end gap

2A 18.3B Measure the ring end gap with a laaler gauga

1B.9A Installing tha spacar/expander in tha oil control ring groove

ponenls ahar reconditioning, especially when pans ara not thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning methods. Whatever tha lOurce. thesa foreign objects oltan and up embadded in the soft bearing material and ara easilv recognizad. Large panicles will not embad in the bearing and will score or gouge the baaring and shaft. The best pravention for this Qusa 01 bearing failura is to clean all parts thoroughly and kaap everything spotlessly clean during engina assembly. Frequent and regular engine oil and lilter changes ara also recommended. 5 Leek 01 lubrication (or lubrication breakdown) has a number of intarralated causes. Excessiva heat (which thins tha oil I, overloading (which squeeles the all from the bearing lacal and 011 leakage or throwoff IIrom axcessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high angine .peeds) all contribute to lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages. which usually are tha result of misaligned oil holes in a bearing shall, wi. also oil-starva a bearing and destroy it. When leck of lubricetlon it tha cause of beaflng failure, the bearing material is wiped or extrud ed from the stael backing of tha bearing. Temperatures may increasa to the point where the steel backing turns blue from overhaating. 8 Driving habit. can hava a definita affect on bearing lifa. Full-thronle. Iow-spead operation (or 'lugging' the angine) puts very high loads on bearings. which tands to squeeza ou t the oil film . Thase loads causa the bearings to flax. which produces fine cracks in the bearing face (fatigua failura) . Eventually the bearing material will loosen in placas Ind taar away Irom the steel becklng. Short-trip driving laads to corrosion 01 bearings becausa insufficient engine heat Ia produced to drive off tha condensed water and corrosiva gasas. Thesa products collact In tha engina oW, form ing acid and sludga. As tha oil is carried to tha Wlglna bearings. tha acid attacks and corrodes the bearing matarial. 7 Incorrect bearing installation during angina assembly will lead to bearing failura as wall. Tight-filtlng bearings leave in.ufficient bearing 011 claarance and will rasult in all starvation. Din or fOfalgn paniclas trapped behind a bearing Insan result in high spots on tha bearing which lead to failure.

Bafore installing the new piston rings. tha ring and gaps must be

18.9B Do not usa a piston ring tool whan installing the oil ring sida rells

checked. It is assumed that tha piston ring side clearance has been checkad and v&fified correct (Section 15) . 2 Layout the piston/connecting rod assambllas and tha naw ring sets so tha ring sets will be matched with tha same piston and cylinder during tha and gap measurement and angina assambly. 3 Inlert tha top (number onal ring into tha first cylinder and squara it up with the cylinder walla by pushing it In with tha top of the platon {photol. The ring should be near tha bottom of tna cyHndar at the lower limit of ring travel. To measura tha end gap, alip a feeler gauga betwaen the ends of tha ring {photol. Compara the maasurament to the Specifications . 4 II the gap Is larger Of smallar than specifiad, d-ooble-check to make sure that you hava tha correct rings befora proceeding. 5 If the gap ia too amal. It must be anlarged or the ring ands may coma in contect with aach other during angine operation, which can cause serious damaga to tha angina. Tha end gap can be incraased by liling tha ring ands vary carefully with a fine file . Mount the lild In a vise aqulpped with soft JawI, slip tha ring over tha fila with the ands contacting tha fila fece and slowly mova tha ring to remove matarial from tha ends. ~n performing this operation, fiIfI only from the ourside in. 6 Excass and gap is not critical unless It II greatar than O.04O-inch (, mm). Again, double-check to make sura you hava the corract rings for your angina. 7 Repeat tha procedure for aach ring that will ba installad In tha first cylinder and fOf each ring in the remaining cyWndars. Remember to kaap rings, piston. and cylindera matched up. B Once tha ring end gaps hava baan checked/corrected, tha rings can be installed on tha plltons. 9 The oil control ring Howast ona on the piston) Is Instelled first. It Is composad of thraa separata componentl.. Slip the spacer expander Into tha groova (photo), than Inatall tha upper aida rail. Do not usa a piston ring insta/ldtion tool on the oil ring side mils, IS they may be dflr7llJged. lnstaad, place ona and of tha ald. rail into the groova betweaen tha spaca axpandar end tha ring land, hold it firmly in piece and slida a fif198l" around tha piston while polhing the rail into the groova jphotol. Naxt, Instalt thalowar side rait In the lima mannar. 10 After tha thraa oil ring components hava been installed. check to

2A- 10

Chapter 2 Part A General engine overhaul proc edures

,id,

make lur. thlt both the upper and lower rail. can be turned smoothly In Ihe ring groove. 11 The number two (middle) ring 'alnSlalied nllKl. II is s!emped with • m.rk 80 it ceo be readily distinguished from the top ring (the top ring I, merked Top or T). Not.: Do not mix up the top and middhl rings since they htlve different cross sections. On F· and L-head fouf-cylfndllf engin8s, the lOP ring can be distinguished by the bevel on the inside edge, while the middle ring M •• &Iightly tepfmtd ftJce only. On these engines, the T or Top stamped on the rings {odiclt., only how the ring Is to IH instef/ed, not th, groove it is iflSttlfled In. 12 USB III piston ring instaUation tool and make sure that lha Iden· tifiClItion mtlrk I, feeing up, then ,lip the ring Into the middle groove on the piston {photol. 00 not expand the ring env more than Is necessary to slide It over the piston. 13 Finallv, Install the number 008 (topl ring in the same malVl8f. Make sure the identifying mark is facing up. '4 Rapeat the procedure lor the ramaining pistons and ring •. Be carelul not to confuse the number one end number two rings.

19 PI.ton/conneetlng rod . ...mbIV - In.tlilition .nd belrlng 011 clel rl nc. check Balore installing the piston/connecting rod assemblies, the cv~nder walls must be perfectlv cleln, tha top edge 01 aach cvlinder must be chamfered. and the crankshah must be In pleca. 2 Ramove tha connecting rod CIP from the and of me number ona connecting rod. Remova the old bearing InHrts and wipe the bearing lurfaces 01 the connecting rod and cap with a clean. lint-free cloth Ithev must be kept .potles.IV clean). 3 Clean the b8Ck side of tha new upper bearing half, then laV it in

Fig. 2.8

Tv plcal piston ring marX. {alw.V' In.tall the rings w ith t ha marks facing up) (Sec 181

place in the connecting rod. Make .ure that the tab on tha beaflng hts into the recess in the rod . Also. the oil holes in each rod and upper bearing insert must lina up. 00 not hammer the beanng In58ft IOta place and be very careful nOI to nick or gouge the bearing face . Do not lubricata the bearing at thiS rime. 4 Clean the back side of tha othar bearing insert and install it in the rod cap. Again. make surelha lab on Ihe bearing fits into the recess in the cap, and do not applv any lubricant. It IS critically important that the mating surfaces of the bearing and connecting rod are perfectly clean and oil-free when they are assembled. 5 Position the piston ring gaps as shown in the accompanying illustrations. then slip a seclion of plastic or rubber hose over the con necting rod cap botts. Nota: On F- end L-head fouf-cylinder englnas only, position the rings so that none o( the gaps are aligned with each otMf Of the r·slot in the piston SK'lt. S Lubricate the piston and flngs with clean eng!ne 011 and attach a piaton ring comprassor to the piston. Leave the skirt protruding about 1/4-inch to guide the piston into the cylinder. The rings must be compressed as far as possible. 7 Rotate the crankshah until the number one connecting rod journal is as lar from the number one cylinder as possible Ibottom dead

NU... UJ Ca-IU'ON ~'NO

1B. 12 Installing the compre..lon ring. Inota tha spacial tool)

19 .10 If resi.t ance is encountered when tapping tM piston/connecting rod .ssembly inlO the block. stop immedilltafy and make sure the rings are fuUy compressed

Fig. 2.9 Piston ring gap poa/tlon. /V8 and V8 englnesl/Sec 19)

19.12 Position the Plastigege strip on tha beering journal, parallel to tha journal a,ds

19.14 The cru.hed P!astigage is compsr ed to the scale printed on the container to obtain the bearing oil clearance

Chapter 2 Part A General engine overhaul procedures

2A-11

center), and apply a uniform coat of enQIf18 011 to the cylinder walls. With the notch or arrow on top 01 the PIston (or the F on the skirt) lacing to the front of the engine, gently place the piston/connecting rod assembly Into the number one cylinder bore and rest the bottom edge of the ring compreSSOf on the engine block. Tap the top edge of the ring compressor to make sure it is contacting the block around its entire Circumference. Note: On 150 cu in four-cylinder and in-line six-cylinder engines, the oil holes in the connectJng rods must face the camshaft. On GM foor-cylinderengines, the projections on the rods must face the front of the engine. On the numbers on the rods and caps must face out and the oil holes must face in. On F- and L-head four-cyfinder engines, the connecting rod identification number must face the camshaft side of the block. On VB engines, the right bank piston/connecting rod assemblies must be installed with the bosses on the rods and caps facing forward. On the /eft bank, the bosses must face fO the rear. In both esses, the connecting rod oil holes win face the camshaft (up). 9 Cleen the number one connecting rod journal on the crankshaft and the Dearing faces in the rod. 10 Care fully tap on the top of the piston wilh the end of a wooden hammer handle (photo! while guiding the end of the connecting rod into place on the c rankshaft journel. Th e piston rings may try to pop out of the ri ng compressor just before entering the cylinder bore, so keep some downward pressure on the flng compressor. Work slowly. and if any reliltance il felt I I the pilton antarl the cylinder. stop immediately . Find out whet il hanging up and 'ill it before proceeding. Do not, for any reason, fotell the piston into the cylinder, as you will break II ring and/or the piston. 1 1 Once the piston/connecting rod assembly ia installed, the connect· ing rod bearing oit clearence mUlt be checked before the rod cap II permanently bolted in place. 12 Cut a piece of tha tha appropriate type Plastigage s~ghtly shorter than the width of the connecting rod bearing and lay it in place on the number one connecting rod Journal, parallel with the journal axis (it must not cross the oil ho le In the journal! (photoL 13 Clean the connecting fod cap bearing 'aca, remove tha protective hosas from the connecting rod bolu and gently Install the rod cap in place. Make sure the meting mark on the cap Is on the same side as the mark on the connecting rod. Inllall the nuts and tighten them to the specified torque, working up to It In three steps. Do nor rotat. the crankshaft at any ri~ during this oparation. 14 Remove the rod cap, being vary careful not to disturb the Plastigage. Compare tha width of the crulhed Plastlgage to the scale printed on tha Plast igaga container to obtain the oil clearancelphotol. Compare It to the Specifications to make lure the clearance is correc t . If the eiearanca is not correct, double-check to make sure that you have the correct size bearing Inserts. AIIO, fecheck the crankshaft connecting rod Journal diameter and make sure that no dirt or 011 was bet· ween the bearing inserts and the connecting rod or cap when the clearance was measured. 1 5 Carefully scrape all traces of the Plastigage material off the rod journal and/or bearing face (be very careful not to scratch the bearing - uae your fingernail or a piece of hardwood I. Make sure the bearin9 faces are perfectly clean, then apply a uniform layer of tlean, hlQhQuality moly-based grease or engine euembty tube to both of them. You will hava to push t ha piston Into the tylinder to eKpose the face of the bearing in58n in the connecting rod; ba sure to slip the protec· tlve hoses ovar the rod bolts first. 16 Slide the connecting rod back into place on the journal, remove the protective hoses from tha rod tap bolts, install the rod cap and tighten the nuts to the specified tO fQue. Again, work up to the torque in three steps. 17 Repeet th e entire procedure lor the remaining piston/c onnecting rod assemblies. Keep the ba ck sldel of the bearing inserts and the inside of the connecting rod and cap per'et tly clean when assembling tham. Make sure you have the tOffect piston lor the cylinder and that the notch, arrow Of F on the piston faces to the front 01 the engine when the piston is installed. Remember, use plenty 01 oil to lubricate the piston belore instatting the fing compressor aod tap. Also, when installing the rod caps tor the final time, be lure to lubricate the bear ing taces adequately. Not.: Dn F· lind L-helld four-cyllnder engmes, the connecting rod Clip nuts are locked With stamped nuts. Used stamped nu ts should be discarded and leplaced with new ones. These locking stllmped nuts should be installBd wi th the flet face agamsr the connecting rod nut. Turn ellch locking nut finger tight, then 113 ·turn more with a wrench.

8 TOP COMPRESSION RING

/

BOTTOM COMPRESSION RING

~

~OIL cC-~/ ~g~~AOL

~~LAAIL ___ / , )

vas.

AAIL

SPAC ER

;~

C---'-~ ~

-=-~- -----~

80TTOM OI L CON TR O L RAIL

I MAGINA RY LINE THROUGH CENTER

~OFPIST ON -'~ J SKIR T

(:5

~

------

IMAGINARY LINE PARALLEL TO PIS TON PIOoi RING GAP POSITION MAY V ARY ! 20 0 FROM POSITION I LL UST R ATED

Fig_ 2.10 Piston ring gap positions (150 cu in four-cylinder and in-line six-cylinder engines) (Sec 19)

ENGINE FRONT

" 11."

Flg. 2 . 11

Pilton ring .nd gap posltionl (G M 151 cu in four-cylinder engine.) Is.<: 19) A Oil ring spacer gap 8 Oil ring sida rail gaps C Second compression ring gllp D Top compression ring gap

2A

2A-12

Chapter 2 Part A General engine overhaul procedures

Once the engine toes been prop61'ly inlltalled in the vehicle. doublectoeck the engine oil and coolant levels. 2 With the spark plugll out of the engine end the coil high-tension lead grounded to the engine block, crank the engine over until oM pressure regillers on the gauge (if so equippedl Of until the oil light goes off. 3 Install the spark plugs. hook up the plug wlfes and the coil tolgh tension lead. 4 Make sure the carburetor choke plate Is closed, then start the engine. It may take a few momenta for the gasoline to reach the carburetor. but the engine should start without a great deal of effort. S As soon 81 the engine starts, it should be set at a fasl idle (to ensure proper oil circulatlonl and allowed t o warm up to normal operating tempenlture. While the engine is warming up, make a thorough check for oil and coolent leeks.

6 Shut Ihe engine 011 and recheck the engme oil and coolan t levels. Also, check Ihe ignilioo liming end the engine idle speed Irefer to Chapter 1) and make any necessary adjustments. 7 Dnve the vehicle 10 en area with minimum traffic, accelerate 81 full throttle from 30 to 50 mph, then allow the vehicle to slow to 30

mph with the throttle closed. Repeat the pfOcedure 10 or 12 limes. This w,U load the pislon rings and cause them to seat properly a9ain51 Ihe cylinder walls. Check again for oil and coolant leaks. 8 Drive the vehicle gently fOI Ihe flfst 500 miles Ina sustained hIgh 5peedsl end keep 8 conslant check on the oil level. It is not unusual for an engme to use oil during the break-in period. 9 At approllirnately 500 to 600 miles, change the oil and filte r, re torque Ihe cylinder head boilS and recheck the valve clearances lif applicablel. 10 FQr Ihe n8)11 few hundred miles. drive the vehicle normelly. 00 not pamper it or abuse it. 11 Alter 2000 miles. chenge the oil and filter again and consider the engine fully broken In.

26-1

Chapter 2 Part B 151 cu in four-cylinder engine Content. CarnshClft lind bearings - removal and installation .. Crankshaft pulley hub and front oil seal - remollal and installation ....... . Crankshaft - inspection. Chapter Crankshaft - installation lind main bearing oil clearance check ........... . Crankshaft - removal Cylinder head - reassembly Chapter Cylinder head - disassembly Chapter Cylinder head - cleaning and inspection Chapter Cylinder head - installation Cylinder head - removal . . . . . . . . .. Engine block - cleaning. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Chapter Engine block - inspection .................. Chapter Engine disassembly - general information Chapter Engine - ins tallation .................. _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Engine overhaul - general information Chapter Engine rebuilding alternatives Chapter Engine - removal_ Engine removal - methods and precautions Chapter E.haust manifold - removal and installation _ __ _ ___ _ Flywheel and rear main oil seal - removal and installation _ . General information _. . .. _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. .

38 31 2A

40 39 2A 2A 2A

30 29 2A 2A 2A 41 2A 2A 22 2A 28 37 21

Hydraulic lifters - removal, inspection and ..... _ . installation Initial start-up and break-in aher ovemaul .... Chapter Intake manifold - removal and installation Main and connecting rod bearings - inspection Chapter Oil pan - removal and installation ....... _ . Oil pump - disassembly, inspection and reassembly Oil pump driveshaft - removal and installation Oil pump - removal and installation _ .. _ . . . . . . Piston/connecting rod assembly - inl;pection .. _ . Chaptar Piston/connaction rod assembly - installation and bearing oil clearance check Chapter Pistonfconnectlng rod assembly - removal . Chapter Piston rings - installation •...... _ . _ ...... _ . Chapter Pushrod cover - removal and installation ..... _ . _. Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle ... _ . _ . . _ . Chapter Rocker arm cover - removal and installation ...... . Rocker arms. push rods and valve springs - removal and installation lengine in vehicle) Timing gear cover - removal and installation Valves - servicing. _ .. . ..... _ . _ .... _ . Chapter

Specifications

General

•

Displacement Bore and stroke CompressIOn ratiO Oil pressure

151cuin 4.0 x 3.0 in 8.24: 1 36 to 41 psi at 2000 rpm

Cvlinder bores Taper limit 1980 1981 through 1 983 Out-of-round limit 1980 1981 through 1 983

0.0005 in max . 0.002 in max. 0.0005 in max. 0.0015 in max.

Pistons and rings Piston diameter Piston -to-cylinder bore clearance Top Bottom. Piston ring side clearance ........ . Piston ring end gap Top ring 2nd ring Oil ring side rails . Piston pin diameter .. Piston pin-to-piston clearance Standard Service limit Piston pin-to·connecting rod clearance

3 .9968 to 3.992 in 0.0025 to 0.0033 in 0.0017 to 0.0041 0.0030 in Cylinder location and distributor rotation 0.010 to 0.010 to 0.015 to 0.92705

0.022 In 0 .028 In 0 .055 in to 0.92745 in

0.0003 in 0.0005 in Press fit

26 2A

27 2A 34 36 33 35 2A 2A 2A 2A 25 2A

23

24 32 2A

28

26-2

Chapter 2 Part B 151 cu in four-cylinder engine

Crankshaft and connecting rods Main journal

Diameter . . Teper limit Out-ol-found limit . Main bearing oil clearance Standard Service limit ... Connecting rod journal Diameter Taper limit . . Oul-ol·round limit Connecting rod bearing oil clearance

2 .2988,"

0.0005 in mall, 0.0005 in mill!. 0.0005 in 0.0022 In

2.000 in 0.0005 in mex. 0.0005 in max.

0.0005 in

Stand.rd Service limit Connecting rod end play . Crankshaft end play .

0.0026 In 0,017 in 0.0035 to 0.0085 in

Camshaft Bearing Journal diameter . ......•....•....•.••.•... Bearing oil clearance Standard Service limit lobe lift end play

1.869 in 0.0007 in 0.0027 In 0.230 in 0 .0015 to 0.0050 in

Cylinder head and valve train 0 .008 in msx.

Cvlinder head warpage limit

4"

Velve Illal angle . Valve seat width Intake ElChaust Valve 'ece angle . . . . .. . Velve margin minimum width ... Valve stem·to·guide clearance Standard 1982 and 1983 Itxhaus t only All others .. . . . .. . Service limit Valve spring pressure (lbs et specified lengthl Closed Open Velve lash adjustment Ufter leakdown rate .. Lifter diemater Lifter bore diameter . Lifter-to·bora clearance . Pushrod length . . ........ .

0,0353 to 0.0747 in 0.058 to 0.097 in

45' 1/32 in

0.020 in 0.010 in 0.0027 in 78 to 86 at 1.66 in 172 to 180 at 1.254 in Zero 12 to 90 seconds w ith a 50·lb load 0.8 120 to 0.84 27 in 0.8435 to 0.8 445 in 0.0025 in 8.927 in

Torque specifications

Ft·lb

Nm

Adapter· lo·intake menifold Camshaft thrust plate·to·block lcrews Carburetor· to·manlfold nuts Connecting rod nuts Crankshaft pulley hub bolt Cylinder head bolts Dislflbutor clamp bolt . Distributor clamp pivot bolt Driveplate-to·crankshaft bolts Drivepleta·to·converter bolts. EGR velve· to·manlfold Exhaust manifold bolts . ... . . Exhaust pipe·to·manifold nuts . . Fen end pulley·lo·we ter pump ..... Flywheel·to·crankshaft bohs . Fuel pump·to·block Intake manifold . . .. . .. . Main bearing cap bolts .. . Oil filter adapter·to-block Oil pan drain plug Oil pan bolts . Oil pump cover bolts Oil pump·to· block boits. Oil pump·to·dr;veshaft plate Oil screen support nut

10 to 16 4 .4 to 9 10 to 16

14 to 20 6 to 12 14 to 20

30

40

157 to 163

217 to 223

..... .. . .......

92

125

.. ...... ..

6 to 12 9 to 15 42 to 48

9 to 15 14 to 21 57 to 63

..... -. ,

.............

...... ..

...... . .. .

........... .. ...

........ ... ....

.. ..... ........ ....

40 6.6 to 11 36 to 42 34 to 40 15 to 21 65t071 12to18 34 to 40

"

9 to 15 47 to 53 49 to 55 21 to 27 90 to 96 17 to 23 47 to 53

65

ee

32 to 38 23 to 28 4 to 7 d to 12 15 to 21 710 13 25 to 31

44 to 50 31 to 37 61011 14 to 20 22 to 28 11 to 17 35 to 41

28· 3

Chapter 2 Part B 151 cu in four-cylinder engine Air injection bracket Pressure plene -la-flywheel boils Cnmkshaft pulley bolt

34 to 40

... . . ..

Pushrod cover boils . Rocker Rocker Rocker Starter

arm cover bolts arm stud arm-la -stud nuts . bolts

. ..... ..

15 to 22 22 to 28 4.4 to 9 4 to 10 57 to 63 17 10 23 141020 19 to 25

Thermostat houSing bolts .

5 9

Timing cover Timing cover-to -block Water oullel housing

... ...

Weier pump

141020 14 to 20

47 to 54 20 to 30 31 to 37 6 to 12 7 to 13 73 to 79 24 to 30 21 to 27 27 to 33 2 to 8 6 to 12 20 to 26

20

10

26

26

Fig. 2.12

CyWnder heed components

exoloded vie w

1 PCV velve 2 Oil fifler cap 3 Intake manifold aN8ching bofts 4 Intake fflenifoJd

5 6 7 8

9 10 " 12

,3

Rocker arm capscrew Rocker arm pivot betl1 ttnd nut Valve spring rereiner 855embly Rocker arm cover Coolant hose flttmg Inteke manifold gasket Cylinder head Cylmderheadboll Velve spring

14 Pvshrod guide 15 Cylinder head plug , 6 Cylinder helJd core plug , 7 Exhaust manifold , 8 Exhaust mlJnifold bolt , 9 Dipstick tube attaching screw 20 Exhaust manifold hea r shield

21 Exhaust manifold-tO<-(Jxhaust pipe stud

22 VlJ/ves 23 Pvshrod 24 VlJ/ve lifter 25 ExhlJust mlJnifo/d gask.lJt 26 Cylinder head gasht

28-4 21

Chapter 2 Part B 151 cu in

four~ cylinder

engine

Genenli infonnatkm

The 151 cubic-inch four-cylinder engine was manufactured by General Motors Corporation for AMC/Jeep. It was the standard Jeep

CJ engine for 1980 through 1983 model years. The engine features a crossllow cylinder head, hydraulic val .... e lifters and non-adjustable rocker arms. The camshaft is mounted in the engine block and is gear driven by the crankshaft. The oil pump is mounted in the crankcase alld driven by the camshaft. The crankshaft is supported by five main bearings. 22

Engine removal

Note: The fol/owing sequence of opefBtions does not necessarily need to be performed in the order given. It is. rBther; B checklist of B'IIf!rything that must be disconnected Of removed before the engine cen be lifted out 01 the vehicl6. If your vehicle is equipped with 8n automatic transmission, the engine removel procedure will be slightly different from the procedure for IIfJhicles equipped with e manual transmission. It is IIfJry important that aI/linkages, electricel wiring, hoses and cables be removed or disconnected before attempting to lift the engine cleer of the vehicle, so double-check eWJrything thoroughly. 1 Open the hood and tilt it all the way beck to provide clearance. 2 Disconnect the negative cable f rom the battery and the body ground wire Irom the dash panel. 3 Remove the air cleaner assembly. 4 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 5 UnbOlt the exhaust pipe from the manifold end disconnect the oxygen sensor !if so equipped). 6 Remove the startar motor. 7 Disconnect the distributor end oil pressure sending unit wires. 8 On manual transmission-equipped models, disconnect the clutch hydraulic slave cylinder and remove the f lywheel inspection plate. Remove the ballhousing-to-angina bolts. 9 On automatic transmission-equipped models, mark the torque converter-to-driveplata felatilie position, then remove the attaching bolts. Remove the torque conliertar housing-to-engina bolts. 10 Lower the vehicle and support the transmission with a jack. 11 Tag or mark all of the liacuum hoses and disconnect them. 12 Disconnect the bowl vent hose and mixture control solenoid wire from the carburetor Inot all vehicles!. 13 Disconnect the wires from the alternator. 14 Disconnect the throttle cable and the choke and solenoid wires from the carburetor. 15 Disconnect the coolant temperature sending unit wire from the engine. 16 Drain the coolant into a suitable container and remove the lower radiator hose. Remove the heater hoses. 17 Remove the fan shroud, upper radiator hose. radi ator and shrOUd. 18 Disconnect and plug Ihe power sleering hoses. 19 Remove the engine mount nuts. 20 Attach e suitable lifting d9\lice to the engine. Reise the engine and mOlie it carefully forward to disengage it from the trena mission. It mey be necessary to reise end lower the transmission with the jack to separate the engine from the transmission. lift the engine from the engine compartment. 23

BEA D OF RTV A S SHO WN PUS H ROO COV ER

Rocke r arm cove r -

remo val and installation

Note: If tha engine has been removed from the VfJhicle, disregard tha following steps which do not apply. 1 Remove the eir cleener. 2 Remove the PCV valve end hose. 3 If so equipped, remove the PUlSAIR air hose from t he air vallie. 4 Remove the sperk plug wires from the plugs and mounting clips, lebeling each wire as to its proper position. 5 Remove the rocker erm COVflr bolts. 6 Remove the rocker arm cover. To break the gesket seal. it mey be necessery to tap the COlier with your hand or a rubbe r mallet. Do not pry on the cover. 7 Prior to installel lon, clean all dirt. oil and old gesket material from

FIg. 2. 13 Recommended sealant applicatio n for intta llation of the rocker arm and pushrod cOlie rs (Sec 23 and 25) the seating surfaces of the cOlier and cvlinder heed with a degreaser. 8 Place a continuous 3116-inch (5 mm) diameter bead of RTV-type sealent or equilialent around the sealing lip of the cover. Be sure to epply the sealant to the inside of the mounting bolt holes. 9 Place the rocker arm cover on the cylinder head while the sealent is still wet, install the mounting bolt~ and tighten them to the specified torque. 10 Complete the installation bV reversing the remOlial procedure.

24 Rocker arms, pu sh rods and val ve springs - removal and inttallation (engine in vehicle) Note: Valve mechanism components must be reinstalled in their original positions. Place elf removed components in a compartmented box to aid in identification. 1 Remove the rocker erm COlier as described in Section 23. 2 If only the push; od is to be replaced, loosen the rocker nut enough so the rocker arm can be rotated away !rom the pushrod. If the rocker arm or valve spring is to be replaced, remove the rocker arm nut and ball and lift off the rocker arm. 3 Pull the push rod out 01 the hole. 4 " the valve spring is to be removed, remove the sperk plug from the cylinder being serviced. 5 There are two methods of keeping the valve in place while the lielve spring is remOlied. If you have access to compressed air. attach an eir hose edepter to your air hose and insert it into the spark plug ho le. When air pressure is applied, the vallies will be held in place by the pressure. 6 If you do not halie access to compressed air, bring the piston to top dead center (TDC) on Ihe compression stroke. Feed a long piece of 114-inch nylon cord in through the spark plug hole until it fills the combustion chember. Be sure to leave the end 01 the cord henging out of the spark plug hole so il can be remOlied easilv. 7 Thread the rocker arm nut onto the rocker arm stUd. Position a valve spring compressor tool over the spring and hook it under the rocker arm nut . Using the nut to secure the tool, apply downward pressure to the lialve spring. If ca re is taken. a screwdriver can also be used in th is manner to compress the spring. Compress the spring just enough to allow the remOliel of the keepef5. then let up on the spring. S Remove the vallie spring retainer. cup shield, liallie spring and valve stem oil seal. The valve stem oil seel must be repleced with a new one whenever the keepers have been disturbed. 9 Inspection procedures for the various valve components are detailed in Chapter 2A. 10 Installalion is the r9\lerse of the remolial procedure. Prior to installing the rocker arms, coat the bearing surfaces of the arms and rocker arm balls wilh engine assemblV lube or moly-based grease. The valve mechanisms require no speciel lash edjustment.

25

Pu shrod cove r -

removal and inllallation

Remolie the intake manifold as described in Section 27.

26-5

Chapter 2 Part B 151 cu in four-cylinder engine

TAPPET BODY

~

BALLCHECKVALV£ RETjAIN.ER BAll CHECK

~

/ PLUNGER RETURN SPRING

VALVE

~~ o~ /

'WNGE R

/

BAll CHECK VALVE SPRING (HIGHBAll LIFTER ONLY)

PLUNGER '"" /

I te' .~ '"J

ROCKER FEED METERING DOse

FRONT

I

INTAKE MANIFOLD

lOCK RING

Fig. 2 .14

Exploded lIiew of the hyd reullc 1IIIIIIe lifter (Sec 261

2 Remove the pushrod COlIer bolts and hft off the COlIer. If the ga$l{el seal is difficult to break. tep lightly on the COlier with a rubber mellet. Do oot pry on tile COlier, 3 Using a degreaser. thoroughly clean the saaling surfaces on the cover end enginll block 10 remove all oir and old ga5ket material. 4 Prior to installation of the COlier. place a continuous 31'6·inch 15 mm) bead of RTV·type sealant or equillalentto the sealing lipol the pushrod cOlier. 5 With the sealant still wet. place the COlier in po!litlon on the block, install the caller bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. 6 Install the intake manifold and related components.

26

Hydreullc lifters - remollel. inspKllon end In.telletion

A noisy lIelve lifter is easiest to detKt when the engrne is idling. Piece a length 01 hose or tubing near the position of each Intake and axheust lIelve while listening at the other end 01 the tube. Another method i. to remOlle the rocker arm COlIer and. with the engine idling. pIece e finger on each of the lIel... e spring reteiners. one et a time. If e ... ellie lifter is defecti... e. it will be ellident from Ihe shock felt et the r.tainer lIS the ... allie seats. • 2 Proliided Ihal adjustment is correct. the most likely cause ot a noisy ...al ... e lifter is e piece of dirt trapped between the plunger and lifter body. 3 Remo ... e Ihe rocker arm co ... er as deSCribed In Section 23. 4 Remo ... e the Intake manifold as described in Section 27. 5 Remo ... e the pushrod co ... er as described in Section 25. 6 loosen the rocker arm nul and rOlate Ihe rocker arm away from the push rod . 7 Remo ... e the pushrod. 8 To remove the hfters. a special hydraulic hfter remOllal tool can be used. or a sharp scribe can be positioned at the top of Ihe lifter end used to force the lifter up.. Do not use pliers 01 other tools on the outside of the lifter body. es they will demage th. machined surfece and render the Iliter useless. 9 The lifters should be kept seperate for reinstallation in their original positions. 10 To dismantle a ... allie lifter. hold the plunger down with a push rOd and then elltract the pushrod seat retainer uaing a small screwdriver. 11 Remo ... e the pUSh rod seat and the metering ... alve. 12 Remo .... the plunger. ball check ... el ... e and plunger spring . Remove the ball check lIal .... and spring by prying with a small screwdriver. 13 Examine all components for w.er. Check the bell for flat spots. If any are noted. r.plac. the complete lifter assembly. 14 Examine each lifter lor scoring. wear and erosion of the camsheft lobe mating surface. Any imperfections on the liher body surfec. is cause for r.placement. Wear in the lift., bar. in the block is rare. 15 Rea8lembly should b. performed in the following manner: a) Plac. the check ball on the small hole in the bottom of the plunger.

Fig. 2 . 15

Recomm.nded tlght.ning lequencI for the Intlk. menlfold mountiog boltl IS.c 27)

bl Insert the ch.ck ball spring in the s.at in the ball r.taln.r al"ld place the retainer over the ball so that the spring rests on the ball. Using a small screwdri....r. care fullv press the retainer rn · to position in the plunger. el Plec. the plunger spring over the ball r.tainer. in...ert Ih. lifter body and slida it ov.r Ihe spring and plunger. Make sure the oil holes in tha body end plunger line up. d) Fill the assembly with SAE lOW oil. Place the m.tering ... al ... a and push rod seat into po.ition. press down on the seat and install the pushrod seat r.tain.r. 16 When Installing Ihe lifters. make sur. they are replac.d In their original bor•• and coat th.m with engine assembly lube or clean engine oil. 17 Complete the installation by reversing the steps in the remo ... al procedure.

27

Intaka manifold -

r.mo ....l and In.talletlon

R.move the eir cleaner. baing sur. to leb.1 the lines and hos•• as to their proper locations, 2 Remo ... e the PCV hose. 3 OisconneCI the negati.... batt.ry cable. 4 Drain the cooling Syst.m as described In Chapter 1. 5 Remo ... e the carburetor as described In Chapter 4. 6 Remove the carburetor bas. gasket. 7 Dlsconn.ct the ... acuum lines from the carburetor spac.r. 8 Remo ... e the EGR lIalve. 9 Remo ... e the carburetor spac.r. 10 Remove the carburetor spac.r gasket. 11 Remove the throttle linkag. al"ld aet it to one SIde for clearance. 12 Remove the heater hose from the inteke manifold. 13 Remo ... e the upper alternator brack.t. 14 If .quipped. remove tile PULSAIR eir lIalli. brack.t. 15 Remo .... the bolts thet secure the Intak. manifold to the cy linder head and lift off tha intake manifold. 16 Remo ... e the menifold gask.t. 17 If the intake manifold Is to be r.placed with eooth.r. transl.r any remaining components stiU ettached 10 the old manifold to the n.w 01"18. 18 Before in.tahiog the manifold. clean the cy~nder head aod manIfold gesk.t surfaces. All old gasket material end s.aling compound mUSt be remo ...ed prior to installetion. 19 Apply a thin b.ad of RTV·type sealant to the Intaka manifold and cyijnOer head mating stKfacea. Be certain that the sealant wil not spraad into the air or coolant passage. when the manifold is insllned. 20 Plac. a n.w intake manifold gasket on the manifold. place the menifold in position againat the cylind.r heed and install the mountIng bolts finger tight. 21 Tighten the manifOld mounting bolts to the specified torque in the seqlHlOC. shown in the accompanying Illustration. Work up to the torque

28

28-6

Chapter 2 Part B 151 cu in four-cylinder engine

in three or four stepl. 22 Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. 23 Fill the radiator with coolant, steft the engine end check for leaks. Check the carburetor idle speed and adjust if necessary. 8S deacribed in Chapter 1.

28

btl.ust manHold - removal and In l1alladon

If the vehk:1e I, equipped with air conditIOning. carefully 8)lamine the routing of the hose. end the mounting of the compressor. 'lUu may be able to remove the exhaust msnilold without disconnecting the air conditioning system. If you are in doubt. take the vehicle to 8 deal.r or other qualified automotive repair shop to have the system depressurized. Caution: Do not, und~ any circumstances., disconnect any lines white the system is under pressure. 2 Remove Ihe air cleaner. 3 Remove the carburetor pre· heat tube. 4 Remove the englna all dipstick tube. 5 Remove the exhaul! senIOr loceted on the exhaust manifOld. S Remove Ihe compressor mounting bracket. 7 Label the four spark plug wires as to their positions. Disconnect them and move them to the side for clearence. 8 Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold. The eK' haust pipe can be hung from a piece at wire attached to the frame. 9 Remove the exhausl manifold end bolts lirst, then remove the center bolts and the exhaust manifold. 10 Remove tha 8Khaust manifold gasket. 11 Before installing tha manifold, clean tha mating surfaces on the cylinder head and manifold. All old gasket material should ba removed. 12 Place a new exhau.t manifold gasket Into position on the cylinder head, then place the manifold into position and install the mount· Ing bolts lin~r tight. 13 Ttghten the manifold mounting bolts to the specified torque in the sequence Ihown in the accompanying illustration. Work up to the final torque in three 0' four steps. 14 Install the remaining components In the reverse order of removal, using new gaskets wherever one has been removed. 15 Start the engine and check for exhaust leak. between the manifold and cylinder head and between the manifold and exhaust pipe.

29

CyHnde. head -

removal

Note: If the engine has been removed lrom the vt1hic/e. disrBf/lJrd the lol/owing steps which do not epply. 1 Remove the intake manllold lIS described In Section 27. 2 Remove the exhaust manifold as described in Section 2B. 3 Remove the bolts that 88Cure the alternator bracket to the cylinder head. 4 Oisconnect the air conditioning compreaaor and swing II out 01 the way lor clearance. Do not discolIIIKt any of the lines unleU th. system n.s been dlJpreuurized.

29. 10 Removing the rocker arms from the pivots

29. 12

EX HAUST

MANIFOLD GA SKET

RIVET

Fig. 2 .1 6

bh.....t mani fold in.tallation and boll l ightening sequence (Sec 281

5 Disconnect all electrical ana vacuum lines from the cvlinder head. 6 Remove Ihe upper radiator hose. 7 Disconnect the spark plug wires and remove the spark plugs. Be sure 10 label the plug wires as to their correct locations. 8 Remove tha rocker arm cover. To break the gasket seal, ,t may be necessary to strike the cover with your hand or a rubber mallet. 00 not pry on the sealing surfaces. 9 In disassembling the valve train components. It is important that once removed, all of the components be kept separate 10 they cen be installed in thei r orip lnal positions. A cardboard box or rack numbered according to engine cylinders, can be used for this. 10 Remova each of the rocker arm nuts or bolts {photol. 11 Lift the rOCker arms 011. 12 Remove Ihe pushrods {photol. 13 Remove the thermostat hOUSing from the cylinder head. 14 Remove all Vlcuum valves and SWitches from the cylinder head. 15 Ramove the engine lihing brackets. 16 Remove Ihe air conditioning complassol mounting bracket. 17 LDosen each of the cylinder head mounting bolts one turn It a time unt il they cln be removed. Note the length and position of each batt to aid in reinstallation. 18 lift tha head frae of the engine. If the head is stuck to the engine block, do not attampl to pry it free, as Ihis may damage the sealing surfaces. Instead, use I hammel and a block of wood to dislodge the head. 19 Remove the cylindar head gasket

Removing the pushrods

30.5 The cylinder head mounting bolts should be coated with seallnt (Irrowsl prior to Installation

Chapter 2 Part B 151 cu in four-cylinder engine

10

6

2

3

7

31

2B-7

Cranklhaft puler hub and front 011 Mal - removal and Installation

Note: If the engine hes been removed from the vehicle. disregard th e fo/fowing steps which do not tlPply.

Fig. 2.17

30

Recommended tightening sequence for tha cylinder haad bolts (Sec 30)

Cylinder haad - Installation

If not already done, thoroughly clean the gasket surfaces on both the cylinder head and the angina block. 00 not scratch or otharwisa damaga the sei:lling i:lraas. 2 To get tha proper torque readings, tha threads of tha haad bolts must be eiean. This also holds trua for the thrai:ldad holes in the engine block. Run a tap through these holes to ensura that they are clean. 3 Place tha gi:lsket in pli:lce over the engine block dowel pins. 4 Carefully lowar Ihe cylinder head onto the engine. over tha dowel pins i:lnd tha gaskets. Be careful not to move tha gi:lsket while doing this. S Coat both the threads ot the cylinder head aUi:lching bolts and the point at which the head and stem meal with a sealing compound and install each tinger tight. 00 not tighten any at the bolts at this time (photol. ~ 6 TIghten each of the bolts i:I little at i:I time in the sequence shown in Ihe i:lccompanying illustration. Continue tightening in this sequence until tha proper torque feading is obtained. As a tinal check. work around the head in a logical front-to·rear sequence to make sura none of the bolts have been overlooked. 7 Install the exhaust manifold as described in Section 28. 8 Install each 01 the valve lifters lif removed) in its proper bore. 9 Pli:lcll i:I smi:lll amount of engine assembly lube on each end of tha push rods and install each in its original position. Make sure the push rods are seated properly in the lifter cavities. 10 Place each of the rocker arms and corrllsponding rocker balls on' to its original stud or bolt. The rocker balls and valve stem ends of the rockllr i:lrms should rllceive i:I small amount of engine assembly lube. 11 Tighten Iha rocker arm nutsl~olts to the spacified torque. 12 Install the rocker arm cover. 13 Install the intake manifold as described in Section 27. 14 Install the remaining engine components in the revarsa order of removal . 15 Fill the radiator with coolant, start the Ilngine and check for leaks. Adjust the ignition timing as required. Be sure to recheck the coolant lavlli once the engine has warmed up to opera ting temperature and cooled back down again.

31.4 Marking the position 01 the crankshaft pulley in relation to the hub

1 Remove the engine drive bOlts. Refer to the appropriate Chapters for each accessory. 2 Remove the radiator to provide working clearance. 3 With the parking brake applied and the shifter in Park (automatic) or in gear (m anuall to prevent the engine from turning over, remove the cri:lnk pulley bolt. There is considerable torque on this bolt and a breaker bar will probably be necessary. 4 Mark the position of the pulley in relation to the hub (photo). Remove the bolts thet secure the crank pulley to the hub and lift off the pulley. S Using a hub puller, remove the hub from the crank~haft (photo). 6 Carefully pry out the oil seal from the front cove r with a large screwdriver. Be sure not to distort the cover. 7 Install the new seal with the helical lip toward the rear of the engine. Drive the seal into place using a special front oil seal instelling tool or an appropriate-size socket. S Apply a light coat of oil to the inside lip of the seal. 9 Position the pulley hub on the cra nksheft and. using a slight twisting motion. slide it through the seal un til It bottoms against the crankshaft gear. The crank pulley hub bolt can also be used to press the hub into position (pho to ). 10 Install the crank pulley onto the hub, aligning the merks made duro ing remova l. 11 Install the crenk pulley hub bolt and tighten it to the specified torque. 12 Comple te the installation by reversing the removal steps. TIghten the drive belts to their proper tension.

2B 32

Timing gear cover -

removal and Installation

Note: If the engine has been removed from the vehicle, disregard the following steps which do nor apply, 1 Remove the crank pulley hub as described in Section 31. 2 Remove the lower alternator bracket. 3 Remove the nuts that secure the front engine moUn! to the cradli3. 4 Remove the fan shroud end, if equipped, the eir conditioner compressor bracket. S Loosen the drivebelts. 6 Remove the bolts that secure the timing gear cover to the engine block and oil pan. 7 Pull the cover forward slightly and. using a sharp knife or other suitable cutting tool, cut the front oil pan seal flush with the cylinder block at both sides of the cove r. 8 Remove the timing gear cover. 9 Remove the timing gear cover gasket. 10 Using a degreeser, clean al( dirt and old gasket material from the sealing surfaces of the timing gear cove r, engine block and oil pan. 11 Replace the front oil seal by carefully prying it out of the timing

31.5 Using a hub puller to remove the hub from the cranks haft

31.9 Pushing the hub onto the crankshaft with the hub bolt

26· 8

Chapter 2 Part B 151 cu in four-cylinder engine

geer cover with 8 large scr8wdrivar. 8e lure nOI to distort the COVII 12 1011111 the new seal with the helical ~p toward the inside of the COVI'. OriVI! Ihe s8al into place using I special front oil Ilal insta lling toOl or an eppropriate-sill socket, Po flIt block of wood wHialso work Iphoto). 13 Prior 10 instelling Ihe cover. in81all a new front oil pan gasket. Cut the ends off of the gasket as shown In the accompanying figure Bnd install It on the cover by pressing the rubber tips Into the holes provided. 14 Apply II thin coat of ATV-IYPII geske! sealant to the timing gear cover gaskel and place It in position on the cover. 15 Apply I bead 01 RTV-Iype sealant to Ihe joint between the oit pan and engine block. 16 Using the crank pulley hub a5 a centering tool, Insert the hub into

FIg.2. 18

Driveplate and ring gaa( automatic transmission/ 2 Oil filter 3 Pvshrod cover and bolts Piston 5 Piston rings Piston pin 7 Connecting rod 8 Connecting rod bolt 9 Dowel pin 10 Dipstick Ilnd tube

•

•

"

33

011 pump drlve. haft - ramoval and in.,all l ' ion

Not.: If the engine hes been removed Irom the vehicle. disregard tha

Engine lower e nd compone nts - exploded view

Camshlllt button

12 Flywheel end ring geer (manual mmsmissionl

13 Dowel pin I. Engine block 15 Pilot and/or converter bushing Rellr mllin oil selll 17 Cr.nkshaft 18 Block core soft ((rHze} plug

"

the front cover seal and place the cover in position on the block with the hub on the crankshaft. 17 In5tall the oil pan-to-cover bolts Ind plrtlally tighten them. 18 Install the bolts Ihal SacUII Ihe cover 10 the block and lighten III of the mounting bolts to the specified torqulI. 19 Remove the hub from the flont cover seal. 20 Complete the installation by reversing the removal procedure.

/9 Timing gear oiler

20 Mllln bearings

21 Mllln bearing caps 22 Connecting rod bearing "P 23 Connecting rod ballring 2. Crankshllft gellr 25 Timing gear cover 2' Timing gear cover oil selll 27 Crankshaft pullev hub

28 Cfankshaft puffey 29 Cranksheft puffer hub bolt

30 Crankshaft puffey bolt

31 Cllmshaft timing g88r 32 C.mshaft thrust plllte 33 3' 35 3.

scrllw Cllmshlllt thrust plate Cllmshaft Cemshaft bearing Oil pump driveshaft (etlliner plll,e, gllsket and bolt

2B-9

Chapter 2 Part B 151 cu in four-cylinder engine

d) Trim the ends off of the front gasket as indicated in the ac· companying illustration to form a good joint with the side gaskets. e) Apply a bead of RTV·t,:,pe sealant at the split lines between the front gasket and the side gaskets. The pan cen now be installed.

fallowing steps which do no/ apply.

1

Remove the air eleanor. 2 Removo the carburetor bowl vent line at the rocker arm cover. 3 Remove the upper alternator bracket. 4 Remove the alternator. 5 Remove the oil pump driveshaft retainer plate bolts. 6 Remove the bushing. . 7 Remove the shaft and gear assemblv. 8 Thoroughlv clean the sealing surfaces on the cvlinder block and retainer platt\. 9 Inspect the gear teeth to see if they lire chipped or broken. Replace the gear if necessary. 10 Inslall the oil pump driveshaft into the block and turn it until it engages with the camshaft drive gear in the oil pump body. 11 Applva 11l6·inch 11.5 mml diameter bead of RTV·!Vpe sealant to the retainer plate so that it completelv seals around the oil pump driveshaft hole in the block Iphoto). Install the retainer plate mount· ing bolts and tighten them secure IV. 12 Complete the installation by reversing the removal procedure.

34

Oil pan - removal and Installation

Due to clearance problems with the chasis crossmember, the ojl pan can onlv be removed with the engine out of the vehicle. 2 Remove the oil pan retaining bolts and lift off the oil pan. It may be necessary to use a rubber mallet to break the seal. 3 Prior to installing the oil pan. clean any dirt or old gasket material from the sealing surfaces of the oil pan and engine block. 4 The oil pan gasket consists of four sepafllte gasket pieces. Each must be carefullv installed in its proper place to form a good junction with tho other pieces it joins with. al Install a rear oil pan gasket in the reaf ma1n bearing cap and applva small quantity of RTV·type sealant in the depressions where the pan gasket engages in the block. bl Install the front oil pan gasket on the timing gear cover, press· ing the lips Into the holes provided in the cover (photo l. cl Install the side gaskets on the oil pan. using grease 10 hold them in place.

5 Place the oil pan into position egainst the block {photol and in· sert the rear and side mounting bolts. Tighten these bolts snugly before installing the front bolts in the timing cover. Tighten all of the bohs to the specified torque.

35

Oil pump - removal and in.tallatlon

1 Remove the oil pan as described in Section 34. 2 Remove the two oil pump flange mounting bolts and the nut from the main bearing cap bolt. 3 Lift off tha oil pump and screen as an assemblV. 4 II the oil pump is to be overhauled. refer to Section 36. 5 To install the pump, align the shaft so it mates with the oil pump drives haft tang.

r "

~

~D

OIL PUMP

~!~ ~c(~COV'R~~ _ '\f ::...~

WIRE HARNESS PROTECTOR

Fig. 2.19 The Iront oil pan gasket must be cut as shown to form a proper seal with the side gasket. (Sec 34)

32. 12 Using a block of wood to install the front oil seal in the timing gear cover

-

PAN ~\ S __

CUT THIS PORTION FROM NEW SEAL

2B

PRESSURE REUEF AND SPRING

OIL PUMP GEARS

OIL

•

OIL PUMP PICKUP TUBE AND STRAINER

0ILA1~~ c:::l

PUMP BODY

GASKET

.~

OILPUMP DRIVESHAFT

Ag. 2.20

33.11 ApplV sealant to the retainer plate prior to installation

• e ,.

- -ro

OIL PAN lTS

OI:PAN - " DRAIN - C OIL PAN REINFORCEMENTS

Oil pump and pan components - exploded view

34.4 During installation the rubber tips on the front oil pan gasket should be pressed into tha holes in the timing gear cover

28-10

34.5

Chapter 2 Part B 151 cu in four-cylinder engine

Lower the oil pan carefully Into

po.ition and do not disturb the gaskets

36.3 Removing Ihe drive gear and shaft and the Idler gear from the oil pump bo
36.46 Withdr8wing the pressure regulator valve Iisembly

36.6 If the gears show signs of weilr or dlmege they should be replaced with new ones

6 Place the oil pump housing Ilange in position and josteD the mounting boh(.1. No ;aaket is needed between the pump flange and the block. 7 Install the oil pump screen bracket over the main be8ring cap bolt

and Inllal1 Ihe nut. a

rtghten the pump mounting boltla, and screen support nut to Ihe

specified torque. 9

36

Inllall the oil pan.

011 pump -

dl .....mbly. Inlpectlon and reassembl y

In moSI cases it will be more praclical and economical 10 replace a laully oil pump wilh a new or ",buill unh. II h Is decided 10 overhaul Ihe oil pump. check on availability 01 inlernal parts before beginning. 2 Remove the pump COV1!f relaining screws and the pump cover. In · du mark the geer teeth to permit reassembly in the same position. 3 Remove the idler gear, drive gear end sheft Irom the body (photol. 4 Remove the pressure regulator valve retaining pin (photol, the regulator valve and Ihe related parts (phoIO), 5 The screen assembly is factory-fiuad 10 Ihe pump body and can· not be separated. 6 Wash all the parts in solvent and dry them thoroughly. Inspect the body for cracQ, wear and damage. InspeCI Ihe gears (photo). 7 Cheek the drive gear for Ioosenell In the pump body and the inside of the pump cover for wear that would permit oil leakage past the ands of the gears Iphoto). If either the gears or body are WQm or damaged, the enti", oil pump assembly must be replaced . 8 In'Peet the pickup screen and pipe nsembly for damage to the scr"", pipe and relief grommet. 9 Inslall the p",ssure regulator valve and related parts. 10 Inslali the drive gear and shah in the pump body, followed by the Idler gaar with the smooth side toward the pump cover opening. lubricate the parts with engine oM. 11 Install Ihe cover and tighten the screws to Ihe 5pecified torque. 12 Turn Ihe driveshaft to ensure thet the pump operata5 fraely.

37

Flywha~

36.4A Removing the pressure regulator valve retaining pin with needle -nose phers

36.7

Inspect the pump cover for wear

and fear main 011 se.1 -

removal and installation

To gain access to the flywheel, either the engine or the transmisSion must be removed from the vehicle. If other engine work is needed, remove Ihe engine as descflbed in Section 22. If no other work necessiteting the removal of the engine needs 10 be done, It would be easier 10 remove the trensm sission as described in Chapter 7. 2 If equipped with e manual transmi ssion, remove the clutch from Ihe flywheel as described in Chapter 8 . 3 The flywheel can be unbolted from the rear flange of Ihe crankshafl. To prevent the flywheel from IOrning, e long screwdriver or similar tool can be run through the flywheel and positioned against the engine block (pho to ). 4 Once the bolts are removed, the flywheel can be lilled off. 5 Remove the flywhee l spacer if so equipped. 6 If the rear main bearing seal mull be replaced, pry it out of tts bore. 7 hamine the flywheel ring gear for any broken or chipped teeth . If Ihls condition exists, the flywheel muSI be replaced with a new one. a On manual transmission ffywhBfJ/s, inspact the clutch friction face for 1C0ring. Light scoring may be corrected using emery cloth, but where Ihere is deep scoring the lIywheel must be repleced with e new one or clutch damage will soon OCCur. 9 On automatic transmission fI'Iwhaafs , examine the converter securing bolt holes for distortion. This condition, too, necessitates the replacement of the flywheel . 10 Before installing the flywheel. clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel and the crankshaft. 11 "the oil seal was removed . apply a light coat of engine oil to Ihe inside lip of the new sea' and instaM i t in ita bore. 12 To install the flywheel , use a new spacer lif equipped I and posi lion it in place against the crenkshaft and insert the mounling bolts, securing them only finger light, It is a good idee to use a Ihread locking agent such as LDctite, or equivalent, on the bolt threads. 13 Again, while preventing the flywheel from lurning. tighten the bolts

Chapter 2 Part B 151 cu in four-cylinder engine

37.3 A long screwdriver can be used to prevent tha flywheel from turning during bolt removal

38.21 Lubrlcata the camshaft lobes and journals prior to Installation of the shaft In the block Ithe dial indicator is usad here to verify that the piston is at TQP Oaad Centar)

38.13 Support the camshaft Insida the block (arrQw) during removal (withdraw the camshaft straight out, teking cere not to gouge the bearing surfaces with the cam lobesl

Camshaft and bearlngl -

38.17 M. .suring the cam bearing jourllli diameter with a micromater

2B 38.22 Tha camshaft and crankshaft gears muSl be positioned with the timing marks (arrQwsl aligned

a little at a time until they ara all at the specified torque. 14 Complete the remainder of the instellation procedure by revers· ing the famoval Slaps. 38

2B-11

removal and Installation

•

Remove the engine as described in Section 22 and mount it on a suitable stend. 2 Remove the rocker arm cover. 3 Loosen the rocker arm nuts/bolts and pivot the rocker arms clear of Ihe pushrods. 4 Remove tha pUlhrods. 5 Remove the pushrod cover 6 Remove the valve lifters as descflbed in Section 26. 7 Remove the distributor. 6 Remove the fuel pump. 9 Remove the oil pump drlveshaft and gear assembly. 10 Remove the front pulley hub as described in Section 31. 11 Remove the timing gear cover as described in Section 32. 12 Remove the two camshaft thrust plate screws by working through the holes in the camshaft gear. 13 While supporting the camshaft with your fingera Inserted through theluel pump hole to PllM!f1t damaging the camshaft bearings. carefully and slowly pull the camshaft straight out Irom the block (photol. 14 If the gear must be removed Irom tha tams haft. it must be pressed off. II you do not heve access to a preas. taka it to your daalar Of an automotlva machine shop. The thrust plata muat be positioned so that the Woodruff key in the shaft does not damage It when the shalt is pressed out. IS E~amine the beaflng surfaces and the surfaces of the cam lobel. The oil pan may have to be removed to thoroughly inspect the bear· ings. Surface scratches. if they are very shallow. can be re' mQved by rubbing with a fine emery ClOth or oilaton e. Any deep scar· Ing will necessitate a new camshaft.

40.5 Installing the main bearings in the block

16 Mount the camshaft on V-blocks and usa a dial gauge tQ measure lobe lift. Reject a camshaft Which does not meet the specified limits. 17 USing a micrometer, measure the journal diameters (photQ). Again, reject a camshaft which does not meet the specified limits. 18 If the camshaft bearings are worn, they must be replaced using the following procedure: 8) Remove the Qil pan 11 it is stili in place. b) Remove the flywheel. CI Driving irQm the inside ou t. remove tha expansion plug from the rear cam bearing. d) Using a camshaft bearing remover set, available from a dealar or auto parts stQre, drive out the frOflt bearing toward the rear. al Drive Qut the fear bearing toward the front. fl USing an axtension on the bearing remover. drive out the centef bearing toward the raar. g) Install the new bearings by reversing the removal procedure. Be lura all of the oil holes are aligned. Note: The (ront bMtring must be driwn in until it is .pproximattlly 118-inch from the front of the cylinder block In ordar to unCOVflr the oil hole to tha timing gear oil nozzltl. hI Aher installing the new bearings. Instell a new camshaft fear ellpenaion plug flush with the rear surlace of the block. il Reinstall the flywheel and Qil pan.

19 If the camshaft gear has been removed from the camshaft. it must be prassed on prior to installation of the camshaft. a) SUPPOft the camshaft in an arbor pre .. by using press plate adaptors behind tha front journal. b) Place the gear spacer ring and the thtVst plate over the end of the shaft. c) Install tha Woodruff key in the shaft keyway. dl Install the camshaft gear and prell It onto the shaft until it bottoms against tha geaf spacer ring. el USe a feeler gauge to check the end clearance of the thrust plate. It should be 0.0015 to 0.0050·lnch. II the Clearance Is

2B-12

Chapter 2 Part B 151 cu in four-cylinder engine

40.10 Place the Plastigage strip (arrow) on the journal, parallel to the journal Ixis

40.14 The oil clea'llnce is obtained by comparing the crushed Plastigage to the scale printed on the container

• less than a.OOl5-inch, the spacer ring should be replaced . If the clearance is more than O.OO50-inch, the thrust plate should be replaced. 20 Prior to Installing the cemshaft, verify that the numbs. one pislon is 8t TOC. Coat 8ach of the lobes and journals liberally with a molybased grease or engine assembly lube. 21 Slide the camshaft into the engine block, again taking extra care nOI to damage the bearings (photo). 22 Position the camshaft and crankshaft gears so that the valve tim ing marks line up (photo). With the shafts in this position, the engine is in the number four (4t cylinder firing position. 23 tnstallthe camshaft thrust plate mounting screws and tighten them to the specified torque.

39 Crankaheft - ramoval 1 Remove the engine from the vahicle liS dascribed in Saction 22. 2 Remove the crankshaft pulley and hub assembly as described in Section 31. 3 Remove the oil plln. 4 Remove the oil pump assembly. 5 Remove the timing gear cove r. 6 Remove the pistons and connecting rods from tha crankshaft as described in Chapter 2A. 7 Remove the flywheal as described in Section 37. 8 Refar to Chap tar 2A for tha remainder of the crankshaft removal procadure.

40

Cranka heft - Install ation and main baaring 011 claa ranca chac k

Nota: H a naw or fflground crankshafr Is being ins raIled, or if rhe original crtJnkshaft hB$ been fflground, maka sure rha correct bearings are used. 1 Crllnkshilit instalilltion is ganerally one of the lirst steps In engine reassembly; it is assumed at this point that the engine block and crankshaft hllV8 been cleaned, inspected and repaired or reconditioned . 2 Position the engine with the bottom fac ing up. 3 Remove the main bearing cap bolts and lift out the ClipS. LilY them out in the proper order to help ensura correct InSl8l1l1lion. 4 I! they are still in placo, ramove the old bearing insert s from the block lind the mllin bearing caps. Wipe the main bearing surfacas of tha block lind CliPS with II clean, lint-free cloth (they must be kept spotlessly clean). 5 Clean the back side o f the new main bearing inserts and lay one

bearing hal! in each main bearing saddle (in the block) (photo) _ Place the o ther bearing half from each bearing set in the corresponding main bearing cap. Make sure the tab on the bearing insert fits into the recass in the block or cap. Also, the oil holes in the block and cap must line up with the oil holes in the bearing insert. Do not hammer the bearing into pface and do not nick or gouge the bearing faces_ No lubrication should be used at this rime. 6 The thrust bearings must be installed in the number five (rea.) cap and saddle. 7 Clean the face ~ of the bearings in the block and the crankshaft main bearing journals with a clean, lint-free cloth _ Check or clean the oit holes in the crankshaft, as any dirt here can only go one way straight through the new bearings. 8 Once you are certain that the crankshaft is clean, carefully lay it in position (lin assistant would be very helpful here) in the main bearings with the counterweights lying sideways. 9 Before the crankshaft can be permanently installed. the main bearing oil clearllnce must be chllcked. 10 Trim seven pieces of the appropriate type of Plastigage slightly shorter than the width of the main bearings lind place one piece on each crankshaft main bell ring journal, pllrallel with the journal IIxis !photol. Do not lay them across any oil holes. 11 Clean the faces of the bllarings in the CliPS lind install the caps in their respective positions (do not mix them up) with the arrows pointing toward the front of the engine. 00 not disturb the Plastigage. 12 Stllrting with the center mllin and working out toward the ends, tighten the main bellring CliP bolts, in three steps, to the spacified torque. Do not rotata the crankshaft at any time during this operation. 13 Ramove the bolts and carfefully lift off the main bearing caps.. Keep them in order. Do not disturb the Plastigage or rotate the crankshaft. I! IIny of the main bearing caps are difficult to remove. tap gantly from side-to-side with a soft-Illced hllmmer to loosen them. 14 Compare the width of the c rushed Plastigllge on each journal to the scale printed on the Plastigllge container to obtllin the main bearing oil clearance (photo). Check the Specifications to make sure it Is correct. 15 If the clearance is not correct, double-check to make sure that you have the right size bearing inserts. Also. reCheck the crllnkshllft main bearing journal diameters and makll sure that no dirt or oil WIIS between the bearing inserts and the main bearing caps or the block when the clearance was measured. 16 Using II piece of hardwood or your fingernail, carefully scrape 1111 traces 01 the Plastigage mllterial off the mllin bearing journilis lind lor the bearing Illces. Do not nick or scrlltch the bearing faces, 17 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the engine. Clelln the bell ring faces in the block. then apply a thin laver of clean, high-Quality moly-

Ch apter 2 Part B 151 cu in four-cylinder engine based gruse or engine assembly lube to each 01 the bearing laces. Be sure to coat the thrust Dearing laces as well. Make sure the cranklhalt journals are clean, then carefully lay it back in place in the block. Clean the Iscas 01 the Dearings in the caps, then spply a thin leyer 01 clean, high·quality moly·based greese or engine assembly lube to each of the bearing laces and install the caps In their respective posi· tions with the arrows pointing toward the front 01 the engine. Install the bolts Ind tighten the bolts in caps one through four to the specified torque. "erting with the center mlin and working out toward the ends. Work up to the linal torque in three steps. Tighten the bolts in the number five (reer) cap to 10 It-Ib, then use a lead or brass hammer to tap the crenkshaft to the rear, then the IrOn1, to center the thrust bearIng. Tighten the rur cap bolts to the specified torque. 18 Rotate the crankshaft a number of times by hand and check for any obvioul binding. 19 Nelft, check the crankshaft end play. Thil can be done with a feeler gaUge or a dial Indicator set (see Section 12 In Chapter 2A). 20 wbricate the seal lip with moly-based grelse or engine assembly IUDe, then center the seal over the reer end of the crank.shsft with the sesl lip feclng the from of the engine. Using s soit-fsced hammer, cSf8fully drive the 5esllnto the groove in the meln beering cap and block until it i••eated. Mske sure it is driven in aquarely. 21 InSlall the Woodruff key in the front of the crenkshaft, then slip the liming gelr into place. 22 Refer to the Ippropriata Sections Ind inlllil the pistonfconnectII\g rod Issemblies, the camshaft, the oil pump, the oil pan, the flywheel, the timing gear cover and the pulley hub.

41

Engine -

InstaHatian

Lower the engine carefully into the engina co~partment and mate

26 -13

it to the transmission. On rMnUM tr8flsmisslon$, make sure the tranarrns· sion input shah is COmtC1/y installed in the pilot bushing and clutch disc. 2 Connect the hoses to the power IIeering pump. 3 Connect the heater hoses to the heater core. 4 Connect the coolsnt temperature sending unit, oil pressure send Ing unit, choke, solenoid and milo:ture conlrol solanoid wires. 5 Connect the carburetor end evaporative system vacuum hOles. 6 Connect the csrburelor bowl vent hose. 7 Connect Ihe ailemllor wiring harness. 8 Attach the Ihrottle cable to Ihe carburetor and secure it with the bracket. 9 Place the fan shroud In position over Ihe fan and install the radiator and ho.as. Attach the shroud 10 Ihe ,.Idiator and fill the radiator with the .pecified coolant. '0 Reise the vehicle and .• uppon it securely. 11 On automlltic transmissions. align the convener-Io-driveplate marX. made during l"Ii'TIO'II'al, then Install the attaching bolt. end lighten them to the specified forque. Apply thread-locking compound to the bolt threads before inslllllng them. '2 Install the transmission-to-torque converter housing attaching bolt. and tighten them to t he specified torque. '3 On mlInuaJ transmissions, in.leilihe flywheel inspection plate and clutch hydrauliC slave cylinder. '4 Install the angine mount nuts and tighten them securely. 15 Install the staner motor aod bracket. '6 Connect the cable and solenoid wire to the st8ner. '7 Connect the distributor wires. 18 Connecl the elfhaust pipe to the manifold and inst8111he olfygen sensor wire (il so &quipped). 19 Connect the nagative battery cable and body ground wire. 20 Inltall the air cleaner assembly. 21 FiU the engine to the correct level with the recommended oil. 22 Refer to Chapter 2A for lhe Initial stan-up and break-in procedure •.

28

28-14

Chapter 2 Part B 151 cu in four-cylinder engine

Notes

•

2C-l

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines Contents Camshaft and bearings · Inspection and replacement. . . . . . . . . 59 camshaft and timing chain/sprockets - installation ...... 67 Camshaft - removal . . . . • . . . • • . . • . . . . . . . • . • • . • • . . • . • . . . . 51 Crankshaft - removal . . . . .. . ............... ~ . . . .. Chapt8f 2A CranKshaft - inspection . ......................... Chapt8f 2A

Crankshaft - installation and main bearing 011 clearance check .•

64

Cylinder head and rocker gear - Inslallation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Cylinder head - cleaning and Inspection ............. Chapter 2A Cylinder head - disassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Chapter 2A Cylinder nead - reassembly ..•..•.. Chapter 2A Cylinder head - removal ...•.•.. ..•... .. . 48

Engine - installation . .. .. .. ...

. .. .. . .. ... ...

71

Engine · removal .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Engine block - c1eanli'lQ ' . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Chapter 2A Engirl6 block - inspection ... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chapter 2A Engine disassembly - general Infotmation ........... Chapter 2A Engine mount flexible cushions· replacement. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Engine overtlaul • general Information .............. Chapter 2A engine reblJllding alternatives. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chapter 2A engine removal - methods and precautions . . . . . . . . . .. Chapter 2A External components - installation ........................ 70 External components - removal ..................... . .... 46 FlywtIeeI and starter nng gear - Inspection and servicing ...... 6t FlywheeVdnvepiate • installation ................ 65 FlywheeVdriveplate - removal ......................... 55

General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .......... 42 Initial start-up and break·ln after ovemaul ............ Chapter 2A lubrication system· general in formation ................... 54 Main and connecting rod bearings - inspection ....... Chapter 2A Main and connecting rod bearings - seIec1iofl .............. 63 Oil pan • removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Oil seals - replacement ..... .. ......... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 011 pump and 011 pan - Installation ........................ 66 Oil pump - disassembly, Inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . 60 Oil pump - removal ........ .......................... 53 Oversize and undnze component designation .... .. ....... 43 Piston/connecting rod assembly - installation and bearing oil clearance check ........................... Chapter 2A Piston/connecting rod assembly - inspection ......... Chapter 2A Piston/connecting rod assembly - removal ... Chapter 2A Piston rings - Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chapter 2A Repair operations possible with the engine In the vehicle Chapter 2A Rocker gear - Inspection and ovemaul .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Rocker gear - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 TIming chain and sprockets· inspection ........... 58 TIming cover. chain and sprockets· removal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Valve liftet'S· installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. .. 68 Valve lifters - descripllon and removal ..................... 49 Valve lifters· Inspection and ovemaul ..................... 57 Valves - serviCing ....... . Chapter 2A

Specifications

General Displacement Six-cylinder .................. . Four-cylinder ............. . Bore and stroke 150 co In engine ....................................... . 232 co in engine 258 co in engine ............. . ............. . Oil pressure

600 rpm . . . . . ....... _..... ................ . Above 1600 rpm .......• . ..... . ............ , .... .

232

Of

258 cu In

150 cu In 3.876 x 3.188 in 3.750 x 3.50 in 3.750 x 3.895 In 13 psi 37 to 75 psi

2C

2C·2

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines

General (continued) Firing order Four-cylinder . ..... . . . Si)(-cyllnder . . .. . .. . . .

' -3-4-2 1-5-3-6-2- 4

FRONT

Four-cylinder engine

(0

Engine block Cylinder bore

Diameter

... . .. . ... .

Taper limit ................ . Out -af-round limit •.•..•..•.....•..........•. . ...•..•.... Deck warpage limit . . .

3.8751 to 3.8775 in a 001 in 0.001 in 0.002 in over 6 in

Pistons and rings Piston-la-bore clearance Starxlard ............................................. . Preferred .... . ..... . ............. . ..... . .......•..• .. .. Piston ring side clearance Compression Standard .....•.••.••.•..•..•• • •. • •• • • . •..•.. • . • • . . . Preferred ........................... . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . Oil control Standard Preferred Piston ring end gap Compression ............................... . Oil control

q (2)

CD 0)

~

four-cylinder 0.0009 to 0.00 17 in 0.0012 to 0.0013 in

• 0.0017 to 0.0032 in 0.0017 In 0.001 to 00008 In 0.003 in

®®0®®@

0.010 to 0.020 in 0.010 to 0.025 in

Crankshaft Mainjoumal Diameter .................. . ....... .. .... . .. . . Taper limit .•. Out 01 roond limit Main bearing oil clearance Standard . .• . Preferred ...... . ............ . ..... . ...... . . .. . Connecting rod joumal Diameter ..... . .. . Taper limit . . . . Out-ol-round limit . . . . . .. . . . . . Connecting rod bearing oil clearance Standard ........................ . Preferred ..•.....•..•..•.••.. Connecling rod end play Crankshaft end play

2.4996 to 2.5001 In 0.0005 in 0.0005 in 0.00 1 to 0.0025 in 0.002 in 2.0934 to 2.0955 in 0.0005 in 0.0005 in

®®0®®@

Inline six-cyflnder engine (1975·1986)

2.029 to 2.030 2.019 to 2.020 2.009 102.010 1.999 to 2.000 0.001 100.003 0.265 in

In

in in in in

Zero (engine operating)

Cylinder head and valve train Head warpage limit ... . . . •..•.••..•.••.•.... Inlake valve seat angle .. . . .. •.....•.••. • ..•..•.•..• . Exhaust valve seat angle .......• . .... . . ... . Intake valve seat width . . . . . . ... ••.. Valve seal n.moutllmit •..•....•.••..•.•• . • . Valve guide inside diameter . .•.•.. • .••..•.•..•.. . .•..•. . • . .• . Intake valve face angle . . . . Exhaust valve lace angle . . Valve margin width •.•..•. . •.•..• . .. . Valve stem d iameter .•.••.•..•..•. . ...•.. Valve stem-to- guide clearance. Valve spring lree length Utter/tappet type . . .. . . .. . .... . Valve lash adjustment ... . ... .

•

0.001 to 0.003 in 0.0015 to 0.002 in 0.010 to 0.00 19 In 0.0015 to 0.0065 in

Camshaft Bearing joomal diameter Number' ... . .. . Number 2. Number 3 ..... . Number 4 ............... . Beari ng oil clearance •....•..•..•..•.••.•..• . .•....•.•• . •. . Lobe lift . .. . .•.......•...• •. . • .. • ..•.. End play

fnline siK-cylinder engine (1972-1974)

0.002 in over 6 in 44 .5" 44 S 0.040 to 0.060 in 00025 in 0.313 10 0.3 14 in

44' 44' 1/ 32 in minimum 0.311 to 0.312 in 0.001 to 0.003 in 1.82 in Hydraulic Z~O

Cyfinder location and distributor rotation

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four~cylinder and all utter bore diameter ..... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . Ufter diameter . . . . . . . . ........ . Utter-to·bore clearance .... . .......................... . Pushrod diameter .............................. . Pushrod length .. . . . . .......... .

in~line

six-cylinder engines

2C-3

0.9055 to 0.9065 In 0.904 to 0.9045 in 0.001 to 0.0025 in 0.312 to 0.315 In 9.640 to 9.660 in

Oversize and undersize component code letter definition Code letter B All cylinder bores ..................... . ...... . M All crankshaft main beanng Journals P All connecting rod bearing tournals ...... . C All camshaft bearing bores ... . ....... .

0.010 In 0.010 In 0.010 In 0.010 in

oversize undersize undersize oversize

Six-cylinder engine Engine block Cylinder bore Diameter ..... Taper limit 1972 through 1981 1982 and later Out-ol-round limit 19721hrough 1981 ....... . 1982 and later ... Deck warpage limit ....

3.7501 to 3.7533 In 0 .005 In 0 .001 in

0.003 In 0 .001 In 0.006 in max.

Pistons and ring s Piston-to·cylinder bore clearance Standard .. Preferred . . .. . ..... . '; ' Piston ring side clearance 1972throu9h 1980 Compression (standard) ........... .. . . ........... . Compression (preferred) ............. . .....•.....• . 011 control (standard) . . . . ....• . ..•.. . ...... Oil control (prelerred) .........• . . . . ..•..•..•..•..• . 1981 and later Compression (slandard) Compression (preferred) Oil control (standard) Oil control (prelerred) .............................. . Piston nng end gap • Compression (all) ..... Oil control 1972 and 1973 only All others ...... .... . Piston pin diameter Piston pin'lo-piston clearance Standard ............. . .................. . .. . Preferred ....... .................. ............ ....... . .

.... .........

0.0009 to 0.0017 in 0.0012 to 0.0013 In

0.001510 0.003 in 0.0015 in 0.001 100.008 in 0.003 In 0.0017 to 0.0032 in 0.0017 In O.OCl1 10 0.008 in 0.003 in 0.010 to 0.020 In 0.01510 0.055 in 0.010 10 0.025 In 0.9304 100.9309 In 0.0003 10 0.0005 In 0.000510

Crankshaft Main journal Diameter 1972 through 1981 .... 1982 and later Taper limit . .. . ... Out·ol·round limit . . Main bearing 011 clearance 1972 and 1973 . . .. 1974 through 1980 Standard Preferred 1981 and later Standard Preferred Connecllng rod journal Diameter ....... . ........................... . Taper limil . . .. .... .......................• . .•..... . Out-ol·round limit . .. ..........................•..

2.4986 2.4996 0.0005 0.0005

to 2.5001 in to 2.5001 in in In

0.001 to 0.002 In 0.001 to 0.003 in 0.0025 in 0.001 10 0.0025 In 0.002 In 2.0934 to 2.0955 In 0.005 In 0.0005 In

2C

2C-4

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines

Crankshaft (continued) Connecting rod bearing oil clearar'ICe 1972 and 1973 ...............••.••..•.••.••. 1974 and 1975 Standard ....•.•..•.••.••... . Preferred .................. . 1976 through 1980 Standard Preferred 1981 and later Standard .................... . Preferred .... .... .. Connecting rod end play 1972 1973 through 1980 .•..•.. 1981 and later •.•..•.••.•..•... .. .••..•.•• . •• . Crankshaft end play •..•.••.•..•..•.••••. .

0.001 to 0.002 in 0.001 to 0.003 in 0.0025 In 0.001 100.0025 in 0.0015 to 0.002 in 0.001 to 0.003 In 0.0015 to 0.002 in 0.008 to 0.010 in 0.005 10 0.014 in 0.010 to 0.019 in 0.0015 to 0.0065 in

Camshaft Bearing journal diameter Number 1 ... . Number 2 .. . Number 3 .. . Number 4 .. . Bearing oil clearance .•• . Lobe lift 1972 through 1974 ............ . ........ . 1975 and 1976 . .... •..•..•.••• • •. • . .•.. • . 1977 through 1979 2321258 with 1 bbl. carn 258 with 2 bbL carb 1980 ..•..•..•..•... 1981 and later .•..•....... End play .. ...•....••.•..• .

2.029 to 2.030 in 2.019 to 2.020 in 2.009 to 2.010 In 1.999 to 2.000 in 0.001 100.003 in 0.254 In 0.232 in 0.232 in 0.248 in 0.248 in 0.253 in Zero (engine operating)

Cylinder head and valve train Head warpage limit .••.• •.. ... ... . ......•..•..•... (ntake valve seat angie .•..• .. . .. . . Exhaust valve seat angle ....•.••....•. Intake valve seat width . .. .....••.••.• .. . . Exhaust valve seal width .....•..•....... Valve seat runout limil . . . ...••....•....... Valve guide Inside diameter ....... .. .... ...•.••.. . Intake valve face angie .... ••.•..•..• . .. .... Exhaust valve face angle ..•. . . ...••.•..•.. Valve margin width .•... . . • . . • . . •• .•.. • ..•..•.. Valve slem diameter . .. ..•..•..•..•. •.. Valve stem-Io-guide clearance ..••.••. • ..•.. •. Valve spring free length 1972 and 1973 •..•... 19741hrough 1976 With rotatOfS ...••.•..•..•.. Without rotalors 1977 258 2 bbl. only ..... ..... . An others 1978 and later . • . . . . . • . . • . . . . . . . •. .•.. • ..•.. • .. • .. •. .• Ufter/lappet type ......... ....•.. • .. • Valve lash adjustment. . . . . . . • ..•..•.. •. .• ..•. . . UfIer bore diameter 1972 and 1973 ..•.•. . 1974 through 1980 ....•.••.••.• 1981 and later ...•.... Ufter diameter 1972 and 1973 19741hrough 1983 ..••...... Ufter·to-bore clearance 1972 and 1973 1974 through 1980 1981 and later

0.006 in max.

30" 44.5 0 0.040 10 0.060 in 0.040 to 0.060 in 0.0025 in 0.3735100.3745 in 29"

44" 1132 in min. 0.3715 to 0.3725 in 0.001 to 0.003 in Not available 2.00 in (approK.) 2.234 in (approx). 1.987 In (approx .) 2.234 in (approx.) 1.99 in (approx.) Hydraulic Zero Not available 0.905 to 0.906 in 0.9055 to 0.9065 in Not available 0.904 to 0.9045 in Not available 0.001 to 0.002 in 0.001 to 0.0025 in

•

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines Pushrod diameter 1972.1973 and 1975 1974 1976 through 1980 1981 and tater ... Pushrod length 1972. 1973 and 1975 1974 1976 1977 through 1980 1981 and later

2C-5

Not available 0.294 to 0.303 In 0.312 to 0.313 In 0.312 to 0.315 in Not available 9.656 to 9.666 9.595 to 9.615 9.64010 9.660 9 .71010 9.730

In in In in

Oil pump Gear-Io,body clearance 1972 through 1980 1981 and later . Gear end clearance 1972 through 1976 and 1981 throu9h 1966 . . . . . . . 1977 through 1980 . • .. .. . •..•. .

0.0005 to 0.0025 in 0.002 to 0.004 in 0.002 to 0.006 in 0.002 to 0.008 In

Oversize and undersize component code letter definition Code B M P

letter All cylinder bores . . . . . . . . . • • . •• • .••... All crankshaft main beanng JOUrnals .. . .•••.. .•...•.•. All connecting rod beanng journals .. . C All cam shaft beanng bores ....... .

Torque specifications (atl models) Camshaft sprocket bolts Carburetor mountmg nuts Connecting rod cap nuts Cylinder head bolts 1972 1973 through 1980 1981 and laler ...... ... .•..•••.••.. Crankshaft pulley-Io-damper bolt ..........•..•..•.•• • , . Exhaust manifold bolls . . . . . . . . . .. ".,. Fan and hub assembly bolts ........ . .. , . " " , •. Dnveplale-to-torque converter bolts •.•••.... Flywheelldriveplate-to-crankshaft bolts. •• • ....•.•••. Intake manifold bolls ..••.••....• MaIO beanng cap bolts . Oil pump cover bolts .. Oil pump mounllng bolls Short Long 011 pan bolts 1/4 x 20 5116 x 18 . Bndged rocker pivot boll Rocker arm shaft bolts VibratIOn damper boll Ig721hrough 1976 1977 and laler Water pump bolls.

.

.......

42

General information

The In·line six·cylinder engines. used from 1972 through 1986. displace 232 or 258 cu In and are equipped With either a one-barrel or two-barrel carburetor. Beginning In 1984 the 150 cu in four-cylinder. manufactured by AMC. replaced the GM 151 cu in fOl.lr·cylinder as the standard engme. The new lour·cylinder IS based on the Six-cylinder engine design and the maJonty 01 the engine operations 81e IdentiCal to the six-cylinder, The engln'es 81e constructed of cast Iron. With a removable cylin· der head. Intake and exhaust manifolds. The crankshaft IS supported In tile block by live (four-cylinder) or seven (six-cylinder) main bearings.

0.010 in oversize 0 ,010 in undersize 0.010 In undersize 0.010 in oversize Ft-Ibs 45 to 55 12to15

33 80 10 85

105 85 20 to 25 20 to 25 15to 25 20 to 25 10010110 20 to 25

80 6 8 to 12 15 to 18 5 t09 10to 13

"

21 50 to 60

eo

10 to 15

The piwn bearing insens for the crankshaft and connecllng rods are removable. The valves are mounted in the cylinder head and are actuated by a camshaft located In the block via puSh rods , rocker arms and hydraulic lifters. Depending on the year of production. the rock8f arms are mounted in either of two ways . On 1972 and 1974 six-cylinder models the rocker arms operate on a common shaft. All oth8f models use a bridged rocker arm pivot, which Is attached to the cytinder head by cap screws. The camshaft Is driven from the crankshaft by a chain. The distnbl.ltor IS dnven by a gear on the camshaft. which In tum dnves the poSItive displacement oil pump. Along with the cylinder head and manifolds. the watOf pump. tim· 109 chain cover and belihOl.lslng can be unbOlted from the block.

2C

2C-6

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu In four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines

""'"

FII ...... ( SUPPORT

COD<

~

)

..,

-

~

y

"u",

Flg.2.21 Oversize/undersize component code location (Sec 43)

43

1 Some engines are built with oVEIf'Size Of undersize cylinder bores, crankshaft main bearing journals, coonecting rod journals or camshaft bearing bores. 2 A code designating the presence 01 ovnze Of undersize components Is stamped on the cylinder block all filler boss located between the distributor and the ignition coil. 3 Refer to the Specifications and compare the letter code with the InfOfTnatlon In the chart to determine which components are oversize or undefSlze.

44

Engine mount n.x1ble cushions - replacement

Inspect the engine mount flexible cushiOf'lS periodically to determine if they have become hard, split or separated from the metal backIng. 2 If it is necessary to replace the cushions, it can be accomplished by supporting the weight of the engine or transmission In the area of the cushion.

45

Fig. 2.22 Typical engine m ount and flexible c ushio n component layout (Sec 44j

Oversize and undersize component designation

engine - removal

Note: The following sequence of operations does not necessarily need to be performed in the order given. It Is, rather, a checklist of everything that must be disconnected or removed before the engine can be lifted out of the vehicle. If your vehicle Is equipped with an automatic transmission, the engine removal procedure will be slightly different from the procedure for a vehicle equipped with a manual transmission, It Is V8ty important that a/l linkages, electrical wiring, hoses and cables be removed or disconnected before attempting to lift the engine clear of the vehicle, so double-check everything thoroughly. Caution: If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, DO NOT loosen any fittings or remove any components until after the system has been discharged at an automotive air conditioning facility. Always wear eye protection when disconnecting air conditioning system fittings. 1 Open the hood and tilt it all the way back to provide clearance. 2 Disconnect the negative cable from the banery. Drain the engine 011 by referring to Chapter 1, 3 Remove the air cleaner assembly and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump. 4 Raise the vehicle and support it S8l.:urely on jackstands. Unbolt the exhaust pipe from the manifold and disconnect the 5 oxygen sensor, i1 so equipped. 6 Ramove the starter motor. 7 Disconnect the distributor and oil pressure sending unit wires. 8 On manual transmission-equipped models, disconnect the clutch and transmissioo linkage, then ramove the flywheellnspeclion plate.

Remove the bellhousing-to-engine bolts. 9 On automatic transmission-equipped models, mark the relative position of the torque converter-to-driveplate, then remove the anachIng bolts. Remove the torque converter housing-to-engine bolts. 10 Lower the vehicle and support the transmission with a jack. 11 Tag or mark all of the vacuum hoses and electrical connectors and disconnect them. 12 Disconnect the bowl vent hose and mixture control solenoid wire from the carburetor ~f equipped). 13 Disconnect the wires from the altemator. 14 Disconnect the thronle linkage and the choke and solenoid wire from the carburetor (If equipped), 15 Disconnect the coolant temperature sending unit wire from the engine. 16 Drain the coolant Into a suitable container and remove the lower radiator hose. Remove the heater hose. 17 Remove the fan shroud, upper radiator hose, engine fan, radiator and shroud. If equipped with an automatic transmission, disconnect the cooler lines trom the radiator before removing the radiator. 18 If so equipped, remove the power steering pump and drivebelt and position the pump out of the way, Do not disconnect the power steering hoses. 19 Remove the engine mount nuts. 20 Attach a suitable lifting device to the engine. Raise the engine and remove the front engine mounts from the engine, then move it carefully forward to disengage it from the transmission. It may be necessary to raise and lower the transmission with the jack to separate the engine from the transmission. Uft the engine from the engine compartment.

46

External co mpol'l8flts - rem oval

With the engine remol/ed from the vehicle and separated from the transmission, the extemal components should be removed before disassembly of the engine begins. 2 From the right-hand side of the engine, remove the following components: a) The fuel pump b) The engine mounting bracket ' c) The oil filter cartridge d) The ignition coil e) The distributor and spark plug wires 3 From the left-hand side of the engine, remove the following components: a) The alternator and mounts b) The engina mounting bracket c) The EGR valve, back pressure sensor and coolant temperature switch (if equipped)

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines

2C-7

<'CV VA L VE ~

OIL FILLER CAP

GROMMET

~~

\Iiil

~~

ff!~::::R ARM

-

$ $ ~ R/PUSHROO

~

KEEPE RS _____ ROTATOR/RE T AINER __ --...........:

til ----- --... tJt _

~

./

V AlV ESPRING--::::i i

CV LINDER HEAD STlJ O -_ _

./

•

H

CY LINDER

.O/~~~CORE

G--------- . ." ,. ."

--=:=

I'! .~~;~~~__

INTA K E

~~l~OER

HEAD

SNAf' R INO

2C

M'.N"FOI.O INTAKE MANifOLD HEATER

MANIfOlD

HEAT STOVE

Fig. 2.23 Typeal cylinder head components (lIb :-cylinder shown) d) The solenoid vacuum valve and connections (if 9QWPped) e) The intake manifold and carburetor ~ The exhaust manifold and air cleaner I10t air inteke 4 Unscrew and remove the vibration damper boll. 5 Draw otlthe damper from the front of the crankshaft using a suitable puller, If necessary.

6 On vehicles with a manual transmission, unbolt and remove the clutch assembly from the flywheel as described In Chapter 7. 7 From the front face of the engine. remove the following components: a) The b) The

water pump thermostat housing cover and the thermostat

2C-8

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines

1f.~'""----"",,"':C:7 ROC KER

ARM

-----,r~~-

/ PIVOT /.OCKER A>.

CY LINDER

Fig 2.248 Pry on the four-cylinder engine roeker arm cover only at tile marked locations (Sec 47)

:-- -'r-,L- PUSH HOLl~ ROO / Fig. 2.24b Bridged rocker arm component layout (Sec 47)

47

47.3 Separating the bridge-type rocker arm assembly from the eylinder head

Rocker gear - removal

Remove the rocker arm cover bolls and then lift off the cover and gasket. On fou r-cylinder models remove the cover by prying only al the marked locations. 2 On all models except 1972 and 1974, the rocker arms pivot on a bridge assembly and the pushrods are hollow to serve as oil galleries supplying oil to the rocker assemblies. 3 Remove the rocker arm bridge assemblies by unscrewing the two cap bolts. Keep ali components in their original order (Photo). 4 On 1972 and 1974 models. unscrew and remove the rocker shaft mounting bolts and lift the shaft. complete with the rocker arms. Irom the cylinder head. S Remove the pushrods and keep them in their original order (Photo).

48

Cylinder head - removal

II the cylinder head Is being removed with the engine slill In the vehicle. remember to: a) Drain the cooling sys tem and disconnect the hoses. b) Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds. c) Remove the Ignition coli and disconnect the spark pJug wires . 2 Remove the rocker arm cover and rocker gear. 3 Disconnect the wire from the coolant temperature sending unit. 4 Working from the center out. unscrew each of the cylinder head bolts one tum at a time in a d iagonal sequence. Uft off the cylinder head and remove the gasket. S

47.5 Remove the pushrods and mark them so they can be

returned to Uleir original locations

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines

Vi , DEFLECTOR MUST FACE THE PUSH ROO SlOE Of

2C-9

LONG BOLT MUST BE USED AT THIS LOCA TI ON

"i t ®D®D®D®D®D® 1

o~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~o -

,

FRONT

-

•

•

DISASSEMBLED VIEW

~ READY fOR INSTALLATION

Fig. 2.25 Rocker shaft-type valve gear component leyout (Sec (7)

49.3 Removing 8 valve lifter

50 Fig. 2.26 Hydraulic valve lifter -

49

ex~oded

view (Sec (9)

Valve lifters - description and removal

The lifters are hydraulic and consist 01 a body, plunger, spring. check valve, metering disc, cap and lock ring. 2 By means 01 charging and leak-down cycles and the contact of the lifters with the lobes 01 the camshaft. zero lash is maintained. 3 The lifters can be Withdrawn (photo) after removing the cylinder head and pushrods as described elsewhere In this Chapter. Note: Removal of the lifters WIll most hkely require a spacial valve lifter ItmOval tool (available at tool and auto parts stores).

Timing cover, chain and sprockets - removal

1 If these components ere being removed with the engine In the vehicle, remember 10: a) Drain the cooling system. b) Remove the radia tor. c) Remove the fan and pulley. d) Remove the vibration damper and pulley. e) On four..c;yllnder models, remove the alternator bracket. 2 Unscrew and remove the cover mounting bolls and Iha bolts which retain the front of the oil pan to the timing cover. 3 Uft the timing cover to disengage the 011 pan-to-cover 58allng strip. Failure to obS8fVe this operation will cause damage to the oil pan gasket, which will then have 10 be replaced after removal of the 011 pan. 4 Withdraw the timing cover, gasket and the 011 slinger.

2C-10

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines

BUILD DATE CODE LOCATION

OIL LEVEL GAUGE (DIPSTICK) AND tUBE

.~

8

L-_--RING SET

~~PISTON

tj ~/PIN

PlUG

~

~~~~~~~~f?~ · ,

.

BLOCK

•/

.,

•

~~~~ct~::--«: a~- •

OIL CHANNEL /PLUG

•

CAMSHAFT

~CONN'CTING ROO

f

PIN

~

__

KEYS

~

LI~!\~'_

...,...........CAMSHAFT SPROCKET

ll~WASHER

"i/ C:--~~DOER

l

@..

~

-.;......_ _

,"-

FLYWHEEL AND RING GEAR (WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION)

<:>Cl"

ISLINGERI

~,

CRAN ....

AF~

--n . . . . . . CONNECTING ~, ROD BEARING

BUSHING OIL WICK (WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION)

TIMING

I CONNECTING ROD BEARING /

CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET

CAP

PILOT BUSHING IWITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION)

I

~- --J

MAIN BEARING CAP SEAL KIT IREAR) MAIN BEARING CAP (REAR)

Fig. 2.27 Engine block components - exploded view (six-cylinder)

VIBRATION

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines 5 Tum the crankshaft until the liming marlc;s on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets are aligned. 6 Unscrew and remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and

..

"-

T

Withdraw the camshaft sprocket. crankshaft sprocket and timing chain as an assembly,

51

rotation 01 the crankshaft. wedge a block 01 wood between the crankshaft web and Ihe Inside 01 the engine block. Alternatively. wedge the starter ring gear by Inserting a screwdriver or pry bar at the starter motor opening. 3 Uft the flywheel (or dnveplate) from the crankshaft nange. 4 Unbolt and remove the engine eodptate. Now IS a good lime 10 check the rear engine block core plug for security and evidence of leakage.

Camshaft· removal If the camshaft is being removed With the engine

In

the vehicle,

remember to: Ii} Remove the radiator and air-conditioner condenser.

Remove the eylmder head, pushrods and lifters. Remove the tlmrng chain and sprockets. Remove the drstributor and fuel pump. Remove the radiator gn/le and 'ront bumper. 2 Withdraw Ihe camshaft from Ihe fronl of Ihe engine. laking great care not to damage the camshaft bearings wllh Ihe lobes or eccentrics as !ney pass through. b) c) d) e)

52

2C-11

011 pan - removal

Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely. Support the engine With a SUitable lifting device and disconnect the froot engine mounts, 3 Disconnect Ihe steering Idler arm and loosen the sway bar link nuts 10 Ihe end of thOlr Ihreads. Remove the sway bar clamp bolts and lower Ihe sway bar. 4 Unbolt the front frame crossmember; pull it down and wedge it into POSition With wood blocks 5 Remove Ihe righI-hand engine mounl bracket from the engine. 6 loosen the lower control arm strut rod bolts. 7 Drain the engine 011 inlo a SUitable container. 8 Remove the slarter motOf. if necessary. IOf clearance. 9 Remove the 011 pan bolls and lower the pan from the engine.

1

56

Rocker gear - Inspectioo and overhaul

On bridged rocker arm models, Ihis is simpty a matter 01 examining the rocker arms and bridged pivot assembUes lor wear and replacing parts as appropriate. 2 On all other models. examine the rocker arm faces for wear. lilt Is slight. It may be removed by gently rubbing on an oilstone. If the wear is deep or if the shaft If grooved or scored , dismantle the complete rocker assembly and replace parts as necessary. 3 Disassembly can be carried out after driving out the roll pin Irom one end of the shaft and removing the spring washer. 4 Reassemble as shown In the accompanying Illustration. Make sure that the rocker shaft oil holes face toward the cylinder head. 5 Take the time to examine the pushrods for wear and distortion and replace any which require it.

2

53

~b'

The hydraulic Irfters are descnbed In Section 49. Visually examine the lifter surfaces for wear or scoring. lithe cam lobe contact lace has worn concave. the lifter must be replaced. The camshaft Will require changing as well. Never use a worn camshaft With new lifters or vice versa. 3 Checking the leak-down time for each lifter IS a job 10f" your dealer who has the necessary testing device. Ally that take more than the specifted time (20 to 110 seconds) must be replaced . 1

2

58

Timing chain and sprockets· Inspectlon

Examine the teeth of the camshaft and c rankshaft sprockets. If they are worn or chipped, replace the sprocket. 2 Wear In the chain can only be satlslactorily checked by comparIng it With a new one but (when Installed on the sprockets) if it can be deflected more than a total 01 tl2-lnch, then it should be replaced or the timing will be upset.

Lubrlcatioo system - general Information

The 011 pump is a gear type. dnven by an extenslOl1 of the distributor dnveshaft. which In tum IS driven by a gear on the camshaft. The pressunzed 011 passes through the lull-flow 011 filter and then through gallenes and passages to ali moving components. Oil holes in the connecting rod bearlOg caps provide splash-type tubncatlOl1 of the camshaft lobes. distributor dflve gear. cylInder walls and piston pins. The hydraulic valve htters receive oil directly from Ihe main 011 gallery.

All oil Pfessure SWitch is mounted on the right-hand side of the block.

55

Valve lifters - Inapectloo and overhaul

Oil pump - removal

With the 011 pan removed . Ihb oil pump can be unbolted from the engine block. 2 Do not attempt to dismantle or alter the position of the oil pickup tube. If Ihe pressure rehef valve has to be dismantled. then the pickup tube Will have to be moved and will necessitate replacing the tube

54

57

Flywheelldriveplste - removal

Unscrew and remove the bolts which secure the flywheel (or drivoplate) to the crankshaft rear Ilange. 2 II difllculty is e~peflenced when loosening the bolts due to the

59

Camshaft and bearings - inspection and reptacem ent

Examill9 the bearing surfaces and the surfaces of the cam lobes. Surface scratches. If shallow. can be removed by rubbing With fine emery cloth or an oilslone. Any deep scoring will necessitate a new camshaft. 2 The camshafts used in engines Without EGR system!' differ from those installed in engines With EGR systems and they ale nol !flterchangeable. 3 The camshaft runs In four plain Insert-type bearings which have larger wes at the front to permit easier Withdrawal 01 the camshaft. Replacement 01 tho bearings is definitely a job for an automotive 4 machine shop. since special equipmoot Is required. 5 Camshaft end play Is automatically maintained al zero (while the engine is running) by the actIon of the helical cut distributor/oil pump drive gear which holds the camshaft sprocket thrust face against Ihe cylinder block.

2C

2C-12

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines

VALVE SPRING

BYPASS

VALVE

RETAINER

--+1

fiLTER

/1 / I

BUSHING SPRINO RETAINER

O!tl\)_'~:r-t::-~~~~~---PVMP-!~¥.~~ <~/r / /1

BODY/ , / /

OIl.'RUSUAI! RELlIF SPRING

IDLEA

SHAFT

IDLER

COTTER PIN

OEAR

~

DRIVE GEAR

ASSEMBLY

1

ll(IlJIJ

/ .~~:::,

BODY

COVER-TO-

GASKET

OIL INLETTUBIE ANDICREEN

AIIEMBLY Fig. 2.28 Typical oil pump and fitter component layout (six-cylinder shown) (Sec 60)

60

011 pump - disassembly. inspection and reassembly

1

Remove the oil pump cover and gasket Place a straightedge across the gears and pump body and use a

2

2 Check I he starter ring gear for worn and chipped teeth. If damage is evident, the ring gear must be replaced with a new one (manual transmission models). On automatic transmission models. the drive· plate must be replaced with a new one if the ring gear Is damaged or

worn.

feeler gauge blade 10 meaSIJre the gear end clearance.

3 Alternatively. place a strip 01 Plasligage across the full width 01 each gear, Install the cover and tighten the retaining screws evenly and securely. Remove the cover and measure the Plastigage with the scale on the envelope. 4 Compare the gear end clearance to the Specifications. 5 Check the gear·to·pump body inner wall clearance and compare this measurement to the SpeclflcaUons. 6 If any of the measurements are out of the specified range, replace the oil pump assembly with a new one. 7 To remove the oil Pfessure relief valve, extract the cotter pin and withdraw the valve and spring. installation Is the reverse of removal and a new pick·up tube must be Installed (Photos). 6 Pack the Interior of the pump with petroleum jelly to provide a sell-priming action and use a new gasket when reassembling the pump.

61

Aywheel and starter ring gear· Inspection and servicing

Examine the clutch contact surface 01 the flywheel (manual transmission models) lor scoring, bum marks, deep ridges and cracks. If any of these condilioos exist, or if the surface is highly polished, have the flywheel resurfaced and balanced at an automotive machine shop.

62

Oil seals - replacement

The timing cover seal and the crankshaft rear oil seal should be replaced as pari of the engine overhaul procedure. 2 Use a suitable diameter piece of tubing or a socket and a hammer to carefully drive the old seal out of the timing cover. 3 Apply a light coat of RTV·type sealant to the outer diameter of the new seal. Place the seal In position with Ihe lip facing in and carefully drive It in until it bottoms in the recess. 4 On four-cylinder engines, the rear main bearing oil seal is a onepiece, single-lip rubber-type seal which fits in a groove in the rear of the block. It can be replaced with Ihe engine in the vehicle, after the transmission and flywheel have been removed, as follows: a) Pry the old seal out very carefully with a screwdriver or similar tool. Do not nick or scratch the crankshaft surface. b) Carefully clean the sealing surfaces of the engine block and crankshaft. Inspect the crankshaft for nicks and scratches. c) Coat the inner lip of the new seal with clean engme oil. d) Insert the seal squarely into the bore and tap it evenly into place until the outer surface is flush WIth the engine block. 5 On six-cylinder engines, drive out the old rear main seal with a brass drift and a hammer until II protrudes sufficiently from the engine

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines

2C-13

\

Fig. 2.29 Checking the oil pump gear end c learance with a straightedge and feeler gauge (Sec 50)

Fig. 2.30 Checking the oil pump gear end clearance with Plastigage (A) (Sec 50)

Fig. 2.31 Checking the 011 pump gear-to00dy clearance with B feeler gauge (Sec 50)

2C

6O.7A Insert the relieve valve and spring

60.78 Insert tile spring retainer

6O.7C Push in on the retainer and install a new cotter pin LIQUID ENGINE OIL ON

'"

" '... ON OUTSIDE

RTV SILICONE ON TOP AND BOTTOM OF BOTH SIDES OF SEAL

RTV SILICONE ON CHAMFERED EDGES

Fig 2.32& The rear oil seal (1) on the 150 cubic inch four-cylinder engine fits tightly into a groove in the block (Sec 62) block to be gripped with pliers and removed. Remove the lower seal from the main bearing cap. Clean the main bearing cap and engine block to remove any 6 traces 01 gasket sealer. 7 Coat the lip 01 the seal with engine oil or grease and the upper contact surface with liquid soap. Insert the seal Into the groove in the engine block with the lip facing forward. 6 Coat both sides 01 the lower seal ends with RTV~type sealant, taking care not to apply it to the seal surface. Coat the lip of the seal with engine oil or grease and the curved outer surface with liquid soap.

"'"

SILICONE ON CHAMFERED EDGES

Fig. 2.32b Six-cylinder engine rear main oil seal details (Sec 62)

Insta ll the low8I" seal In the main bearing cap with the lip lacing 9 forward and seat it securely. 10 When installing the main bearing cap, apply a coat of RTV-type sealant to the chamfered contact surfaces.

2C-1 4

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines

64.5 Make sure the tab (arrow) on the bearing Insert fits Into the rec ess In the block

64.6 The thrust bearing must be installed in the number three cap and saddle tile block on si x-cyli nder engine s and number two on four-cyli nder engines

83

Main and connecting rod bearing s - selection The crankshaft and bearing Inspection procedures are included In

Chapter 2A. The condition and measured size of the crankshaft journals will determine the bearings to be installed when the engine is

reassembled. 2 If a new or reground crankshaft Is Installed, the size of each journal should be Indicated by a coIor-coded mark on the adjacent cheal< or counterweight, toward the rear (flanged) end of the crankshaft. The bearing Inserts are also color coded (on the edge of the Insert). The accompanying charts (one for main bearings, one for rod bearings) should be consulted to determine the correct bearings to use. Cauti on: Always check the bearing 011 clearance with Plas tig8ge during

final insta/lation of the crankshaft and/or piston/connecting rod assemblies. 3 If necessary to achieve the desired 011 clearance, different size upper and lower bearing inserts may be used on the same journal but the size difference must never exceed 0.OO1-inch. Caution: The odd size Inserts must a/l be eitner In the caps or block (main bearings). In the case of connecting rod bearings, the odd size Inserts must all be

either In the caps or rods. 4 If the original crankshaft Is reground, the automotive machine shop that reconditions the Journals should supply bearings that will produce the desired oil clearance.

64

Crankshaft - In stallation and main bearing 011 clearanc e

,heck Crankshaft installation is generally one of the first steps in engine reassembly: It Is assumed at this point that the engine block and crankshaft have been cleaned and inspected and repaired or reconditioned. Position the engine with the bottom facing up. 2 3 Remove the main bearing cap bolts and lift out the. caps. Lay them out in the proper order to help ensure that they are Installed correctly. If they are still In place, remove the old bearing inserts from the 4 block and the main bearing caps. Wipe the main bearing surfaces of the block and caps with a clean , lint-free cloth (they must be kept spotlessly clean). Clean the back sides of the new main bearing inserts and lay one 5 bearing half in each main bearing saddle in the block. Lay the other bearing half from each bearing set In the corresponding main bearing

cap. Make sure the tab on the bearing insert fits into the recess in the block or cap (photo). Also, the oil holes in the block and cap must line up with the 011 holes in the bearing insert. 00 not hammer the bearing Into place and do not nick or gouge the bearing faces. No lubrication should be used at this time. The flanged thrust bearing must be installed in the number two (2) 6 cap and saddle on four-cylinder engines and the number three (3) cap and saddle on six-cylinder engines (photo). Cl ean the faces of the bearings in the block and the crankshaft 7 main bearing journals with a clean, lint-free cloth. Check or clean the 0(1 holes In the crankshaft, as any dirt here can only go one way straight through the new bearings. Install the rear seal (Section 62). 8 Once you are~certain that the crankshaft Is clean. carefully lay It In position (an assistant would be very helpful here) in the main bearings with the coonterwelghts lying sideways. 9 Before the crankshaft can be permanently installed, the main bearing oil clearance must be checked. 10 Trim several pieces of the appropriate type of Plastigage (so they are slightly shorter than the width 01 the main bearings) and place one piece on each crankshaft main bearing Joumal, parallel with the journal axis. 00 not lay them across any 011 holes. 11 Clean the faces of the bearings In the caps and install the caps In Iheir respective positions (do not mix them up) with the arrows pointing toward the front of the engine. Do nol disturb the Plastigage. 12 Starting with the cen ter main and wor\(ing out toward the ends, tight en the main bearing cap bolts, in three steps, to the specified torque. Do not rotate the crankshaft at any time during this operation. 13 Remove the boils and carefully lift off the main bearing caps. Keep them in O!'der. 00 not disturb the Plastigage 01' rolate the crankshaft. If any of the main bearing caps are difficult to remove, tap gently from side-to-side with a soft-faced hammer to loosen them. 14 Compare the width of the crushed Plastigage on each joumal to the scale printed on the Plastigage container to obtain the main bearIng 011 clearance. Check the Specifications to make sure it is correct. 15 If the clearance is not correct, double-check to make sure you have the right size bearing Inserts. Also, recheck the crankshaft main bearing journal diameters and make sure that no dirt or oil was between the bearing Inserts and the main bearing caps or the block when the clearance was measured. 16 Carefully scrape all traces of the Plastigage material off the maln bearing joumals andlor the bearing faces. 00 not nick or scratch the bearing faces. 17 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the engine. Clean the bearing faces in the block, then apply a thin, uniform layer of clean , high-quality moly-baSed grease (O!' engine assembly lube) to each of the bearing faces. Be sure to coat the thrust flange faces as well as the joomal face of the thrust bearing. Make sure the crankshaft journals are clean, then

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines

tr.nklhaft Con_lng Rod JIMImIII CoIor.nd DiIometw In lnet.. IJournilI Size)

lJpp8r I~ Size

V.llow

-2.0955 to 2.0948ISUlnd8rd)

Rod

-2.0948 10 2.0941 10.0007 Unct.rtlft) -2.094' to 2.093410.0014 Unct.rtlze) -2.0865 to 2.0&48 (0.010 Uno:t.rsIH)

"'..... ""',

2C-15

L_'-,$ln

Vellow Vellow

,,,"""" SUlndlrd

'''''' Rod

.0014nd1 UncMnln .ol~lndI Undtnim

,,,-

V.llow

.0014nch Undtrtlz. .oo,-indl Und8rtiu .o,O-lndl Und8ntu

""'" BlK' RK

Fig. 2.338 Connecting rod bearing selection chart (Sec 83)

Belrlng Color COdi

CrlnluMft MIIi" Buri"g Journal Colo, Code.nd O"met.. i" Inchft (Jou rnal $Iu) VeUow O"nge Bilek G,"" Red

-

Upper I....., $I.,

2.5001102 .4996 (SIInct.rdl 2 .49961024991 (0 .0005 Unde...,u) 24991 102 .4986 (O.OCl1 Under"u) 2 4986 to 2.4981 (0.OCI15 Undfi.,z,1 2 .4901 1024896 10 .010 UncI ..... u )

VeUow V'lIow BllICk BllICk Rod

L_I.-1$1u

- SII" OI,d - S..nde.d .OOHnch Undersize -- .oo' .. nd! U",*,ill - .o,C).jnch Undenizi

Vellow BlICk BllICk

G,_ Rod

-

--

SUinOl.d

.oo, .. nch Unde..," .OO1 .. nd! U...o. •• iu .OO2.jnch Unde.m, .010 .. nch U...o. ..,ze

Fig. 2..33b Main bearing selection chart (Sec 63)

2C

66.1 Be sure to use a new gasket when )nstalllng the 011 pump

lay it back in place in the block. Clean the faces of the bearings in the caps, then apply a thin, uniform layer of clean, moly-based grease to each 01 the bearing faces and install the caps In their respectjve positions With the arrows pointing toward the front of the 9flgine. Install the bolts and tight9fl them to the specified torque, starting with the center main and working out toward the ends. Work up to the final torque in three steps. ,8 Rotate the crankshaft a number 01 limes by hand and check lor any obvious bindIng. 19 The final step is to check the crankshaft end play. This can be done With a feel9l" gauge or a dial indicator set. Rel9l" to Chapter 2A. SectIon '2, for the procedure to follow. 65

AywheeVdriveplate - installation

1 2

Install the engine rear plate 0'191" the locating dowels. Attach the lIywheel (or driveplate) to the crankshaft rear flange

66.2 Installing the 011 pump

and tlght9fl the bolts to the specified torque. Apply a wrench to the vibration damper bolt to prevent the Cf8flkshaft from rotating as tile flywheel bolts are tightened.

66

011 pump and oil pan - Installation

,

Locate a new oil pump gasket on the lower flange of the block

(photo).

2 Install the oil pump/pick-up tube assembly and tighten the mounting bolts (photo). 3 PositIOn a new oil pall gasket on the block and theo bolt on the 011 pan, tightening the bolts to the specified torque. Follow a crisscross pattetn to avoid warping the pan. Make sure the drain plug is tight.

2C-16

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines

Fig. 2.34 Before installing the timing chain on four-cylinder engines, tum the tensioner lever (1) to the unlocked position, then pull the tensloner block (2) back and tum the lever to the lock position (Sec 67)

Fig. 2.35 Correct relationship of the cra nkshaft and camshaft sprocket timing marks (Sec 67)

Fig. 2.36a On six-cylinder engines, with the camshaft sprocket tim ing mart( at the 1 o 'clock position, the timing marks must be 15 pins apart (Sec 67)

Fig. 2.36b On four-cylinder engines, with the camshaft sprocket timing mark at the 1 o'clock po sition, the timing marks must be 20 pins apart (Sec 67)

67

Camshaft and timing chain/sprockets - Installation

Lubricate the camshaft and carefully insert the camshaft from the front of the engine. 2 With the engine positioned with the cylinder head surface up. tum Ihe crankshaft so that the keyway is vertical and at the top. Prior to installation. tum the chain tensioner lever 10 the Down (unlocked) position, pull the tensioner block toward the lever to compress the spring and then tum the lever to the Up ~ocked} position as shown. 3 Engage the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets within the timing chain and inslallthem as an assembly so that a line drawn through the sprocket timing marks will also pass through the centers of the sprockets. Obviously the camshaft will have to be rotated and a certain amount of repositloning of the camshaft sprocket within the.loop of the chain Will be required to achieve this. 4 Secure the camshaft sprocket and then check the timing. To do this, set the camshaft sprocket timing Inark to the one o'clock position. There should be 15 chain pins between the sprocket liming marks in six-cylinder engines and 20 chain pins on four-cylinder engines (as shown in the accompanying illustrations). 5 Attach the oil stinger to the front of the crankshaft sprocket (photo). 6 Install a new oil seal in the timing chain cover (Section 62), Ihen

attach the cover to the engine with a new gasket. Tightoo the bolts finger tight at this time (photo). Apply grease to the oil seal contact surfaces of the vibration 7 damper and push it into posiliOn. If necessary, tap the timing cover from side 10 side (or up and down) to center it and enable the damper to be withdrawn and installed easily. 8 Now tighten the liming chain cover bolts securely. Inslall the damper and tighten the mounting bolt to the specified 9 torque. Use a block of wood Inserted between the crankshaft and the engine block to prevent crankshaft rotation . to Locate a new gasket on the front face of the cylinder block (use RTV-type sealant on the gasket). 11 Install the water pump.

68

Valve lifters - Installation

Note: The camshaft must be in place before the lifters are installed. 1 Apply engine assembly lube or moly grease to the lifters, then install them In their original bores. 2 If new lifters are being instaJled, a new camshaft musl also be Installed. If a new camshaft was installed, then use new lifters as well. Never install used lifters unless Ihe original camshaft is used and the lifters can be installed in their original locations.

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines

87.5 Remember to install the o il slinger (arrow) before attaching th e tim ing c hain cover to the block

2C-17

67.6 Be careful not to damage the seal when Installing the timing chain covet'"

____ /1>-_ _ _

--- ....... -- ~ --

,,

Q,

, I, "

,,

, , ,

,

, I

----- """If ----

,

, -'

/

Fig. 2.37 Six- cylinder engine head bolt tightening sequence (Sec 69)

69

•

Cylinder head and rocker gear - installation

Note: The valve lifters must be in place before the head is rnstalled. 1 If not already done, thoroughly clean the gasket surfaces on both the cylinder head and the engine block. Do not scratch Of otherwise damage the sealing areas. 2 To gel the proper torque readings, the threads of the head bolts must be clean. This also holds true for the threaded holes In the engine block. Run a lap through these holes to ensure that they are clean. 3 Apply a thin, even coat of AMC Perfect Seal gasket sealer (or equivalent) to both sides of the new head gasket. Caution: Do not apply the gasket sealer to the cylinder head or block and do not allow any sealer to enter the cylinder bores. Place the gasket in position over the engine block dowel pins. Make sure the side marked TOP is facing

"P, 4 Carefully tower the cylinder head onlo the engine. over the dowel pins and the gasket. Be careful not to move the gasket while doing

"" 5 6

Install the head bolts and tighten them finger tight. T1ghten each of the bolts. a little at a time, in the sequence shown f1 the accompanYing illustrations. Conllnue tightening In this sequence untit the proper torque reading is obtained. As a final check, work around the head In a logicat front-to-rear sequence to make sure none of the bolts have been overlooked. 7 Lubricate the pushrod ends with engine assembly lube or moly grease and install them. Make sure they are sealed in the titter cavities. 6 Lubricate the rocker arm contact surfaces. then install the rocker

Fig. 2.38 Four-cylinder engine head bolt tightening sequence (Sec 69)

arms or shaft assembly and lighten the bolts to the specified tOfque. Be sure to lubricate the rock9f" arm pivots with engine assembly lube or moly grease. g Lay a new gasket In place, then install the rocker arm cover.

2C

2C-18

Chapter 2 Part C 150 cu in four-cylinder and all in-line six-cylinder engines

B

10

"

6

• Fig. 2.39 Six-cylinder engine intake/exhaust manifold bolt tightening sequenee (1982 and earlier models) (Sec 70)

70

External components - installation

Fig. 2.40 Six-cylinder engine intake/exhaust manifold batt tightening sequence (1983 and later models) (Sec 70)

•

1 InslaUthe thermostat (pIn hole up) and COVef using a new gasket. 2 On vehicles with a manual transmission, attach the clutch assembly to the flywheel as described In Chapter 8. 3 Install the Intake and exhaust manifolds.

4

InstaJi the waler pump.

5 Install the EGA valve, the back Pfessure sensor. the coolant tem perature switch and the solenoid vacuum valve and connections (all components of the emissions control system). 6 Install the engine mount brackets.

7 S g 10 11 12 13 the

71

Instalilhe alternator. Attach the air cleaner hot air duct to the exhaust manifold. Install the distributor as described In Chapter 5. Install the Ignition coil. Install the spark plugs and wires. Install the fuel pump. Check that the oil filter cartridge threaded fitting is tight, grease filter sealing ring and screw it on with hand pressure only.

Fig. 2.41 Four-cylinder engine Intake/exhaust manifold bolt tightening sequence (Sec 70)

Engine - installation

Lower the engine carefully into the engine compartment and attach it to the transmission. On manual transmissions, make sure the transmission Input shaft is correctly installed In the pilot bushing and clutch disc. Install the power steering pump, water pump pulley and drivebelt. 2 3 Connect the heater hoses to the heater core. 4 Connect the coolant temperature sending unit. oil pressure sending unit, choke, solenoid and mixture control solenoid wires. 5 Install the carburetor and connect the evaporative system vacuum hoses. 6 Connect the carburetor bowl vent hose. 7 Connect the altemator wiring hamess. 8 Attach the throttle linkage to the carburetor. 9 Place the fan shroud in position over the fan and Install the radiator and hoses. Attach the shroud to the radiator and fill the radiator With the specified coolant. Attach the cooler lines to the radiator (automatic transmission only). 10 Raise the vehicle and support it securely. lIOn automatic transmissions, align the converter-to-driveplate

marks made during removal, then install the attachmg bolts and tighten Ihem to the specified torque. Apply thread-locking compound to the bolt threads before installing them. 12 Inslall the transmlssion-to-torque converter housing attaching bolts and tighten them securely, 13 On manual transmissions, install the flywheel inspection plate and hook up the clutch and transmission linkages. 14 Install the engine mount nuts and tighten them securely. 15 Install the starter motor. 16 Connect the battery cable and solenoid wife to the slarter. 17 Connect the distributor wires. 18 Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold and install the oxygen sensor wire (i f equipped). 19 Connect the negative battery cable to the battery. 20 Install the air cleaner assembry. 21 Fill the engine to the correct level With the recommended OIl. 22 Refer to Chapter 2A for the Initial start-up and break-in procedures. 23 Have the air conditioning lines hooked up and the system recharged by an air conditioning techniCian.

20-1

va

Chapter 2 Part 0

engine

Contenu

Cemshah - installation ........ . Camshaft - removel ,. Crankshaft - Inspection. Crankshaft - installation and main bearing 011 clearance check . . . . .. . ..... .

.

8~

.. Ch~~t~r

;1

9~ g~~i~~se~a~~~ ~':~::~ing end i~sp~~~i~~ ........... Ch~~t~r ~~

Cylinder head - disassembly.

Cylinder head - installation . Cylinder head - reassembly . Cylinder head - removal Engine block - cleaning . . Engine block - inspection

C . h. '. p.' ." 29~ Chapter .. .. . Chapter Chapter

Engine diuSlIambly - general informallon Engine mounts - replacement Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine

2 7 2 2A

Ch8pler 2A 7

overhaul - general infol1il81ion • . . . . . . . . Chapter rebuilding alternatives . . . •. ....•... Chapter removal - methods and precautions . . . . .. Chapter - disassembly and reassembly sequence.. ...•... - inSUllIl!lIion Engine - removal Generallnformalion Ininal starl'Up and break·in afler oYllrhaul Chapler Intake manifold - inslallalion

2 2 2 7 9 7

7:Z:

2~

Inlake manilold - removal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7e Main and connecling rod bearings - Inspection ... Chapter 2A Main and connecling rod bearings - selection 96 Oil pan - inslallalion .. . .. .. . .. .. .. . 93 Oil pan - removal .. . . .. .. ......... 77 Oil pump - disassembly, inspeclion and reassembly . . 85 Oil pump - installation . . . . . . . . .. ...... . 87 OH p"mp -

"~.,, .

. . . . . . ..

. ....

84

Oil seal replacemenl . . . . . . . .. Oversize and undersiza component designation Piston/connecting rod assembly - inspection Piston/connecting rod assembly - installation and bearing 011 cle arance check Pistonfconnecting rod asaembly - removal .. Pislon rings - installation .. .. .. .. . .. Aepair operalions possible with the engine in the vehicle .. . . . . . . . . .. ..... TIming chain cover - inSlaliatlon TIming chain cover - removal .... .. Timing chain and sprockets - inSlaliation . TIming chain and sprockets - removal TIming chain wear check . . Valves - servicing . . .

..

73 Chapler 2A Chapter 2A Chapter 2A Chapler 2A Chapler 2A

90

eo

88 82 81 Chapler 2A

92

Specillcations

General Displacement . . .. . . Cylinder numbering IVlewed Irom radiator, Iront· lo·rear) Left blink RighI bank Firing order ComprelllOn pressure Mallimum vallalion between cylinders Oil pressure 600 'pm 1600 rpm and above

Cylinder bore Taper limil Out·ol· round limit Deck warpage limit .

lEn

304 cu in ' · 3·5· 7

I"'H~

CD CD CD CD

2· 4·6 ·8 ' ·8 ·4 ·3 ·6 · 5· 7· 2

ClOClCWI1( It01AT1001

140 psi

' ..... :1-&.6_12

20 PSI

13 PSI 37 PSI mm,mum. 75 psi max

0.005 in 0.003 in 0.008 in

It'OH1'''HIC

CD

(i) (i)

86

CD 'ItOOlTO

Cylinder location and distributor rotation

2D

20-2

Chapter 2 Part 0

va engine

Pistons and rings Plston-Io·cylinder bOle clearanca Standard Pfefeffad Piston ring slda clearance Top ling Standard Pfeferred 2nd ring Standald Prefeffed 011 ring Pfston ling end gap Top and 2nd ring Standard Prelaffed Oil ring PiSlon pln-to-rod clearance. Piston pln·to-bore clearance Standard . Pfelerred

0 .0010 to 0.0018 in 0 .00 14 in

0.00 15 to 0 .0035 In 0.0015 In 0.0015 to 0.003 In 0.0015 in 0.0011 to 0.008 In

0.010100.020 In 0.010 to 0.012 in 0.010 to 0.025 in Pless fit 0.0003 10 0 .0005 in 0.0005 in

Crankshaft and flywheel Main Journal diameter 1.2.3and4 Rear main (5) Main beaflng oil clearance 1.2.3end4 Standard Prefened Rear main 15) Standard Preferred Connecling rod journal Diametel Tapel limit Out·of round limit Connecting lod bearing oil clearance Standard Prelaffed Connecting lod and play .. Crankshaft and play

2.7474 to 2.7489 in 2 .7464 to 2.7479 In

0.001 to 0.003 In 0.0017 to 0.0020 in 0.002100.004 in 0.0025 10 0.003 in 2.0934 to 2.0955 10 0.000510 0.0005 In 0.001 to 0.003 in 0.0020 to 0.0025 ,n 0.006 to 0.0018 in 0.003 to 0.008 11'1

Camshaft Beaflng journal diameter 1

2 3 4 5 Bearing oil clearance Standard Pleferred Lobe lift End play TimlOg chain total allowable deflection

2.1195t02 .1205in 2.0895 to 2.0905 in 2.0595 to 2.0605 in 2.0295 to 2 .0305 in 1.9995 to 2.0005 In 0.001 to 0.003 in 0 .0017 to 0 .0020 0.266 in Zero 7/8 in

III

Cylinder heads and valve train Head warpage limit Valve seat angle Intake Ellhausl Valve seal Width Valve seat IUnoUt limit Valve lace angle Intake Ellhaust Valve stem diameter Velve guide diameter Valve slem-Io-guide clearance Valve margin width Valve lifter type Lifter diameter Lifter bore diameler L1fter-Io-bore clearance. .

0.008 In mu.

30" 44.5° 0.040 to 0.060 In 0.0025 In mu

29' 44' 0.3715 to 0.3725 In 0.3735100.3745 In 0.001 to 0 .003 In 1/ 32 in minimum Hydraulic 0 .9040 to 0.9045 In 0.9055 10 0 .9065 In 0.001 to 0.0025 in

•

va engine

Chapter 2 Part D

20-3

Oil pump Gear end clearance Gear-to·body clearance Oil pressure relief valve opening pressure

0.002 to 0.006 in 0.0005 to 0.0025 in 75 pSI

Oversize and undersize component code letter definition Code letter 8 Cylinder bore M Main bearings . F Connecting rod bearings PM Main and connecting rod beaflngs . C Camshaft bearing bores

0.010 0 .010 0.010 0.010 0.010

Torque specifications Camshaft gear screw Carburetor adapter Carburetor mounting nuts Connecting rod nuts 1972 through 1975 1976 through 1983 Crcmkshaft pulleY'lo-damper bolts . Cylinder head boils. Drrveplate·to-torque converter bolts Exhaust manifold bolts 318 in 5116 in . Exhaust pipe-to·manlfold bolts Fan and hub assembly Flywheel or driveplate· to·crankshaft bolts Intake manifold Main bearing cap bolts Oil pan screws 1/4 in 5/16 in Oil pump cover Oil relief valve cap Rocker arm boll Spark plugs . Starter motor bolts Thermostat housing bolts Timing chaIn cover -Io·block bolts Vibration damper bolt' 1972 through 1975 1976 and 1978 1977 and 1979 through 1983 Water pump bolts

...

in in in in in

oversize undersize undersize undersize oversize

Ft·lbs 30

Nm 41

12to15 12 to 15

16 to 20 16 to 20

28 33 17 to 28 110 22

38 45

25 15 15 to 25 12 10 25 105 43 100

34 20

5 to 9 9 to 13

4.5 28

7" 12 12 to 18 6.0 38

16t026 22 to 33 13 to 25 10 to 18 18 to 33

22 to 35 30 to 45 18t034 1410 24 24 to 45

24 10 38

149 30

20 to 34 16 to 34

142 58 136

76 55 108 60 122 90 4 to 5 510 6 'Note: The vibration damper bolt on 1978 through 1983 models should be lubricated before instill/arion.

•

72

General information

3 Refer to the Specifications Sect 100 and compare the letter code with the information in the charI to delermine which components are oversize or undersize.

The 90 degree VB engine is made of cast iron and features overhead valves. The camshaft is located in the V of the cylinder block and ac· tuates the valves through hydraulic lifters. pushrods and rocker arms. The rocker arms are fastened to the cylinder head in pairs by bridged pivots. The positive displacement. gear-type oil pump is incorporated into tha timing case cover and is dllven by the distributor shaft. The crankshaft Is supported by five two·piece insert· type main bearings.

73

Oversize and undersize component designation

Some engines may have ovtlrsize or undersize cylinder bores. crankshaft main bearing journals, connecting rod journals and/or cam· shafl bearing bores. 2 A code designating the presence of oversize or undersize com· >Klnents is stamped on the tag located on the 'ight bank rocker arm cover. The oversize/undersize code is located adjacent to the engine build date code on the tag.

rr--

Fig . 2.42 Thll lIogloe build date and oversize/underslza codes are loceted on the right sida rockar arm cover (Sec 131

2D

20-4

Chapter 2 Part 0 t21 ~'6 INCH · 12 Nun

V8 engine

... .

~

LJII'ItEA TAUNNIOH

IE ... 'UNG

"VOTOA SLEEVE

•

'~H

D •• HD"

N.

~

"""'......

..O"~

I .

''''N'

MOUNTING BRACKETS

FRAME SUI'PORT

~~ "

2 X 2XIINCH

HARDWOOD

0···,c~': Y~:::~~DN , (. ~ 1

2 I( 2 It'" INCH HARDWOOD BLOCK

121 liZ INCH HOLE S

Fig . 2.43 Typical Inginl Wfting'lupponing fixture which can be fabn.c.tad and v.,d when r,placlng engine mount cu5hlon. (See 74)

74

Engine mount. -

r.pl.c.~nt

Rubber engine mounts SUPPOIt the engine 81 three points. These mounts should be inspected periOdically to make sure they haven't become hard, split or separated from the metel backing. 2 The mount cushions can be replaced after supporting the engine/transmission weight with 8 jack, hoist or holding , jxture.

75

Engine - removal

Not.: The foNowing sequence of operatIOns d~s not necessarily nHd to be Pflrformed in the order given. It is, rather, e chlJCklist of everything th., must be disconnected or remo...cJ befol'8 the engine can be lifted out of the vehicle. If \'Our vehicle is equipped with an aUlomeric tmnsmission, the engine removal procedure will be slightly different from the procedure for vehicles equipped with e manual trensmission. It is very important that aI/linkages. electric.' wiring, hoses and cables be removed or disconnected before attempting to lift the engine clear of the vehicle, so double·check eVflrything thoroughly. 1 Open the hood and tilt it completely back. 2 Remo\le the air cleaner assembly. 3 Drain the coolant into a suitable container. then remove the heater hoses and radiator hoses. 4 On automatic transmission equipped models. disconnect and plug the transmission fluid cooler lines. S Remo\le the radiator and engine cooling fan. 6 Disconnect and plug the pOW1lr steering hoses and remove the power steering pump assembly. 7 If the \lehicle is equipped with air conditioning, ha\le the system discharged by a dealer ser\lice department or properly trained teChnicien. Caution: Do not ettempt to disconnlJCt the air conditioning system components until the system h8s been s. f./y discharged, as serious in;ury could result. 8 Remove the air conditioning compreasor. 9 If equipped with cruise con trol, remove the se,...,o bellows end mounting bracket as an assembly. 10 Disconnect the negati\le battery cable from the battery. 11 Disconnect the fuel supply and ,eturn lines et the chassis connactlons. 12 Olsconnect the engine wiring herness and move it out of the way. 13 Disconnect the vacuum line hom tha pOW1lr brake unit. 14 Disconnect the heater damper door vacu um line at the intake menifold. 15 On automatic transmission equipped models. disconnect Ibut do

Fig . 2.44 T,!,plcal engine mount component Ia'!'out - uploded view (Sec 74)

not remO\le) the filler tube at the light cylinder head. 16 Remove the nuts from the liOn! engine mount support cushIOns.. 17 Connect a suitable lilting device to the engine and raise il suffi ciently to support the englne's weight 18 Remove the left front engine support cushion and bracke t. 19 On four wheel drive models equipped with a manual transmission, remO\le the transfer case shift le\lar boot, 11001 mat and transmission access covar. 20 On automatic transmiSSion eqUipped vehicles. remove the upper torque converter·to·engine bolts. 21 On manual transmission eqUipped models. remolle the upper clutch houslng-to-engine 601ts. 22 Unbolt and disconnect the exhaust pipes Irom the manifolds and support bracket. 23 Remove the SlaMel motOI. 24 Support the transmiSSion wllh a jack. 25 On eutomotic transmission equippad models, remove the inspec· tion cover and mark the relati\le position of the con\lerter and dllveplate. 26 Remo\le the convertel ·to·dri\leplal8 bolts by rotating the crankshaft pulle,!, nut with a wrench to prOVide access to each bolt. 27 Remo\le an,!, remaining boilS retaining the engine to the transmis· sion. On manual transmission equIpped models. remove the clutCh houS' Ing lower cover for access to the remaining bolts. 28 Withdraw the engine forward and tift it up at an angle to ramove the engine from the vehicle.

76 Engine - dlsessembly .nd , ••ssembl,!, sequence To completely disassemble the engine. remove the follOWing Items in the order given: Oil pan Intake manifold Cylinder head/valve train components Timing chain cover Timing chain end sprock~ts Camshaft PiSlonJconnecting rod assemblies Crankshaft Oil pump 2 Engine reassembl,!, is bUlcaU'!' the ,everse of disassembl,!,. InSll1l tha following components In the order gl\lon: Oil pump Crankshaft PiSlon/connecting rod assemblies

Chapter 2 Part 0

va engine

20·5

IENOI~E ACCESSOAY OAIVE I'VlllEY

~.~ .",,,,;000 DAMPEA COVIE" Oil SEAL

Fig. 2.46

I Fig. 2.45

)

nmlng chein cove r components 15K 80)

•

Rocur arm assembly components (Sac 791

elCploded view

Timing cham and sprockets Camshaft Timing chain COYer Cylinder head/Va/ve train components Intake mamfold 011 pan Fig . 2.47 77

011 p.n -

80

Remove the carburetor and linkage (Chapter 41. Remove the retaining bolts and lilt the manifold Irom the engine. Remove the metal gasket and the end seals.

81

79

ChKking timing ch.n

_.t

2D (deflection) (Sec 81)

removal

Remove the bolts attaching the oil pan to the engine block. 2 Tap on the pan with a solt-Iaced hammer. to break the gasket seal. and 1,lt the 011 pan off the engint 3 Remove the oil pan neoprene seals. 4 USing a gasket scraper. remove all traces 01 gasket Itom the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces. 5 Clean the oil pan with solvent and dry it thoroughly. Check the gasket sealing surfaces for distortion.

1 2 3

e:llploded view

Cylinder head -

removal

Remove the rocker arm covers. The cover. are installed with a formed · in-pl.ca ATV· type gasket and it m.y be necassary 10 tap Ihem sharply With a soft -faced hammer 10 breek Ihe le.1. 2 Remove the intake manifold. 3 Remove the rocker arm assembly bolts/nuts. 4 Remove the rocker arm assemblies .nd pushrods, keeping them in order so they c.n be reinstalled in thel' oligin.1 locations. 5 Loosen the cylinder head bolts 1I4-tu,n at • time. working Irom the inside out. Remove the boilS, then lift all the cylinder head and gasket. It may be nacassary to tap the head sharply with a soft-faced hammer around Its circumference to bra.k the gaskel seal.

nmlng chain cover -

removel

1 Remove the vibration damper bolt. 2 Using a suitable puller, remova the vibration damper. 3 Remove the timing COvel mounting bolts. Since these bolts are of varying lengths. mark the location of each one at tha time of removal so Ihey can be reinstalled in the sama locations. 4 Ramova the cover by pulling it atraight out. off the locating dowels. 5 Pry the oil seal out and cle.n the bC/fe. Cle.n the gasket surfaces of the timing cover and engille block.

Timing chain _ar ct..tk

1 Remove the timing chain CoYer. 2 Rotete either the cranksheft or c.msh.ft sprocket until there Is no sl.ck in the right side of the ch.ln. 3 To determine. reference point for deflection measurement, move 314 01 an Inch up from the dowel on the right side of the engine .nd make. mark at this location. PI.ce • streightedge across the timing chain from. point at the lowest root 01 the c.mshaft sprocket to the marked position. Grasp the ch.in at this point to use as • reference. move the chain in tow.rd the centerline of the engine and mark the point 01 m.ximum deflection. Move the ch.in out to the point of m'lIimum deflection .nd make .nother mark. 4 Me.sure the distance between the two merk. to determine the total deflection (as shown in the .cCompenying illustration). 5 If the deflection Is beyond the malClmum .1I0wed in the Specifications. replace the chain with a new one. If the chain is replaced, new .prockets probably 8hould be used as well.

20-6

Fig. 2 .49

Fig. 2 .48 Thil ml,k, on the Iprocket' mUlt be Illgned belo,.. removing the eh"'" end sprockets 15K 821

17'

F:;:.:fJ (~

IOLIER I!iAFT

Fig. 2 .51 Checlllng oR pump g"r end elelr.nc. with PIa.tlgeg. (Sec 85)

t-' ~I

~iJ

'O"'G"'~

OIL !'''lAURIE IULIEf VALVE ....1. . Ly

A

~~

~

Cam, haft componenta - Ixploded view (Sec 831

Fig. 2 .52

Checking oU pump gear end

cle.r.nce with • I..ler gauge and Itralghtedge (Se<: 85)

DRIVE SHAFT

"NOGE""

,1

Fig. 2.50 Oil pump components IltpkKted view (Sec 85)

Fig. 2 .53

Checking 01 pump g ••, -to-

body clur8ncl (S.C 85)

Chapter 2 Part 0

82 ,

Timing chain and sprockets -

ramoval

Remove the vibration damper and pulley.

2 Ramova tha timing chain cover. 3 Remove the camshaft retaining screw and washer. distributor drive gear and fuel pump eccentric. 4 Rotate the crankshaft until the ~ero timing mark on the sprocket is aligned with. and closest to. the ~aro timing mark on tha camshaft sprocket as shown in the accompanying illustration. 5 Remove the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets and tha timing chain as an assembly.

20-7

VB engine

tween Ihe gaar tooth end and the pump body inner wall opposite the point of gear mesh as shown in the accompanying illustration. Select a gauge which fits snugly, yet can be insarted freely. Rotate the gears and measure the clearance of each looth in lurn. 7 If the geaHo-body clearance is greater than specified. replace the gears and idler shaft. B Slide the gear and idler shaft assembly into the pump body and 'nsert the pressure relief velve and spring. secure it with the cap. Note: The oil pump must be pecked with petroleum ;ally (not grease) prior to installa tion to ensure self·priming action.

86 011 seal replacement 83 Camshaft - removal Remove the pushrods and valve lifters. 2 Remove the distributor. 3 Remove the vibration damper' and timing chain cover. 4 Install the vibration damper screw and two washers and use a wrench to rotate the crankshaft until the timing mark is aligned with the centerline of the camshaft sprocket. 5 Remove the retaining screws from the camshaft and crankshaft. 6 Remove the fuel pump eccentric and distributor drive gear from the camshaft. 7 Remove the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets and timing chain as an assembly. 8 Remove the camshaft from the engine block. laking care not to damage the lobes or bearing surfaces. 9 Inspect the distributor drive gear and fuel pump eccentric for wear and damage. Inspect the camshaft bearing journals for eJ(cessive wear and evidence of seizure. If the journals are damaged, the bearings in the block are probably damaged as well. Both the" camshaft and bear· ings will have to be replaced with new ones. Check the cam lobes for pitting, grooves, scoring or flaking. Inspect the valve lifter facas lthat rida on the cam lobes) for concave wear. Note: Never install used liftelS on a new camshaft. If the original camshaft and lifters are installed, make sure the lifters are returned to the bores they were removed from. I! they get mixed up. new lifters must be used. 1

84 Oil pump - removal

Front timing chain cover seal I The seal should be replaced with a new one whenever the timing chain cover is removed. 2 Remove the old seal and clean the cavity. 3 Apply a gas kat sealant such as Permatex No.. 2 or equivalent to the outer circumference of the seal. 4 Install the seal evenly in the timing case, using a large socket or block of wood and a hammer to seat it completely in the cavity. 5 Prior to installing the crankshaft vibration damper. apply a light coat of engine oil or grease to the seal·to-damper contact surface.

Rear main bearing oil seal Remove the rear main bearing and discard the old lower seal. Clean all traces of sealer from the main beaflng cap. a Gently drive out the upper seal. USing a hammer and brass drift, until it protrudes sufficiently to be grasped with pliers and pulled out. S If the crankshaft is in place, wipe the contact surface area clean and apply a light coat of engine oil. 10 Coat the lip of the seal with engine oil or grease and the upper contllct surface with liquid soap. Insert the seal into tha groove in the engine block with the lip facing forward . 11 Coat both sides of the lower seal ends with RTV·type sealant, tak· ing care not to apply it to the saalsurface. Coat the lip of the seal with engine oil or grease and the curved outer surface with liquid soap as shown in the accompanying illustration. 12 Install the lower seal in the main bearing cap with the lip facing forward and seat it securely. 13 When installing the main bearing cap, apply a coat of RTV-tvpe sealant to the chamfered contact surfaces.

6 7

The oil pump is an integral part of the timing chain cover with the cavity in the cover forming tha pody of the pump. 2 Remove the retaining bolts and lift the oil pump cover. the gasket and the oil filter as an assambly away from tha timing chain cover.

ENGINE OIL ON

'"

LlOUIO SQAPON OUTSIOE

RTV SILICONE ON TOPANO BOTTOM OF BOTH

85 011 pump - disassembly, inspection and raassembly

SIOESO~SE"'L

Slide the dflve gaar assembly and idler gear from the pump body. Unscrew the pressure relief valve cap and remove the valve and spring. 3 Check the operation of the relief valve by insening the poppet valve and making sure it slides back and forth f reely. If it does not, raplace the pump cover and the valve with new components. 4 The distance between the end of tha pump gear and the cover is the gear end clearance. This can be checked in either of two ways. I

2

a)

m SILICONE ONCHA/llFEREO EO(IES

~ace

a strip of Plastigaga across the full width of each gear, install the pump cover and tighten the bolts to the specified torqua Remove the cover and measure tha Plastigage with the scale on the container to determine if the clearance is within the Specifications. b) Place a straightedge across the gears and the pump body and select a feeler gauge which will fit freely but snugly between the straightedge and the body. Make sure the gears are push· ed as far up into the body as possible. 5 If the clearance is ellcessive. check the gears for ellcessive wear. n the gear is obviously not badly worn and a thinner cover gasket will not bring the clearance within the specified limit, replace the gears and idler shaft. 6 To check the gear·to·body clearance, Insert a feeler gauge be-

Fig. 2.54

87

Rear meln bellling 011 seal installation detail, (Sec 86)

Oil pump - lnstallitlon

Pack tha interior of the pump with petroleum jelly to provide I self-priming action. Caution: Do not use grease for this purpose. 2 Using a new gasket, place the pump and filter assembly in posi tion and install the retaining bolts. TIghten them to the specified torqua

2D

20-8 88

Chapter 2 Part 0

Timlnll c hain end sprocket. - Installation

Assemble the timing chain, crankshaft and clNTlsha ft sprockets with the timing marks ehgned el shown In the accompanying illustration, 2 Install the Iprockets and chain o nto the crank.&halt and camsha f t. 3 Install the fuel pump eccentric and distrib utor drive gear wil h the eccentric REAR Itamping facing the camsha ft sprocket. 4 Install the camlhaft washer and $Crew. Ttghten the screw to the specified torque. 5 Rotate the crankshaft until the camshaft Iprocket timing mark is at the 3 o'clock position. COUf1ling from the pin directlV adjacent to the timing mark, there must be 20 pins bet ween the cams hal t sprocket mark and the crankshaft sprocket mark as shown in the accompanving illustration. 6 Install the crankshaft oil seal and timing chain cover. 7 Install the vibra tion dampar and pullev.

89 Cam. haft - Inltanatlon Lubricate the camshaft very thoroughlv wit h engine assembly lube or molV-based grea$8. 2 Carefully inllrt the camshaft into the block, I8king care not to contact the bearing surfacel with tha cam lobes. 3 Install the timing chain and sprocket assembly. 4 Install the oil slinger on the cranksha l t. 5 Install the fuel pump eccen tric and drive gear on the camshalt. tightening the retaining screw to Ihe specified torque. 6 Install the liming chain case using a new gasket and oil seal. 7 Install the vibretion damper and pullev. tightening the retaimng boits to the specified torque. B Coat the hydreulic lifters w ith engine assembly lube or moly-be sed grease. Install each lifter into the bore from w hich it was originallv removed . 9 Lubricete the ends of each pushrod with engine assemblv lube

VB engine

or moly-based grease and ,nstall them in their onginal locations. 10 Install the rocker arm assemblies. 11 Install the rocker arm cove,s. 12 Install the fuel pump. 13 Rotate the crankshaft until the number 1 piston II at lOp dead center noel on the comprl!ssion stroke. nils can be determined by piecing your finger over the number 1 cylinder spark plug hole and turning the crankshaft pulley boll with a wrench in a clockwise direction until pressure is felt. The liming mark on the vibration damper should be aligned with the TOe rndell mark on the tIming degree scale. 14 Insert the dislributol so Ihe rotor IS alIgned with Ihe number 1 terminal of the cap when fully in place ,Chapter 51. Install the dlstnbulOf

co. 90

Timing chain cov • • - Installation

1 Remove the lower locating dowel, I8king care not to damage it. 2 Cut both Sides 01 the oil pan gasket off flush with the engine block. 3 ApplV RTV-type gasket sealant to both sides 01 the new liming cover gaske t and attach the gasket to the cover. 4 Attach the new froni oil pan seal to Ihe bottom of the liming chain cover. S If a new oil pan gasket is used. use the old gaskets as a guide and trim them to correspond to the amount cut off in Step 2. Une up the tongues of the new gasket piece; wi th the oil pan seal and cement them into place on the cover with RTV-type gasket sealant. ApplV gasket sealant to the cut-off edges of the original pan gasket. place the limIng cover in position and in"allthe bolts. Tighten the boits slowlV and evenly untit the cover aligns with the upper dowel. Insen the lower dowel and carefullv drive it IOtO position. Install the 10_ bolts and then tighten all of the cover bolts 10 the specified torque. 6 II RTV-lVpe sealant is used. apply a l /Blnch bead to the timing cover flanges. Place the cover In position and install the boilS in their marked posit ions. Insert the lower lOCating dowel into the block and drive It inlo position. Install the remaining boilS and IIghlen them to the specified lorque. ApplV a bead 01 RTV·type sealanlto the pan· to-

Fig. 2 .56 Timing chain co ....r end oM pan s.al InSllllation datalls (5 K 90)

~ ~ @

@ Fig. 2 .55 F~ pro~ valve timing. th .... must be 20 pk,. betwMn the sprodwt timing martu !Sec 88)

0 0

Fig. 2 .57

0

0

0

/"'.

0

(]

0

~ ~ 0

0 0

@

Cylindar head bolt tightening .equence (Sec 91)

Chapter 2 Part 0 cover joint and press it into place with your finger. ApplV a thread· locking compound to the oil pan bolts and install them. 7 Install the vibration damper and tighten the bolt to the specified torque.

91 Cvlinder heed -

installation

ApplV an even coal of non·hardening gasket sealanllO both sides of the new cylinder head gasket. 2 Place Ihe gasket in position on the engine block with the stamped TOP designation facing up. 3 Prior to installing the head bolts. clean the threads with a wire brush so the bolts will not bind when installed. 4 Place the cvlinder head in position on the engine block. S Install the bolts finger tight. making sure they thread smoothlV into the block with no binding. 6 Tighten the bolts evenlv to the specified torque in the sequence soown in the accompanying illustration. 7 Install the intake manifold. S Install the pushrods and rocker arm assemblies in their original positions. Make sure tha push rod ends are lubricated with a dab of &ngine assemblv lube or molV· based grease and that the boltom end of each rod is centered in the valve lifter plunger cup. Tighten the rocker arm baits/nuts one turn at a time. alternatelV, to avoid bending or break· ing the bridge (if so equipped), 9 ApplV a lI8-inch bead of RTV-tVpe sealant to the gasket surface of the rocker arm cover. 10 Place the cover in position on the cylinder head, install the bolts end tighten them evenly and securely.

92

Intake manifold - installation

If a new intake manifold is to be installed, transfer the EGR valve and back pressure sensor, thermostat housing, coolant temperature sensor and CTO valve from the old unit. 2 Coat both sides of the manifold gasket with RTV· type sealant, 3 Place the gasket in position on the alignment locators at the rear of the cvlinder heads. Hold the rear of the gaskat in place and align it with the front locators. 4 Install the end seals and applV a coat of Permatex No.2 sealant. 5 Lower the manifold into position and install the retaining bolts finger tight. 6 After making sure the bolts are properlv started with no binding. tighten them to the specified torque in a crisscross pattern.

93

011 pan - installation

va engine

20 -9

95 Crankshaf1; - Inll1allatlon and main bearing oil clearance cha<:k Crankshaft installation is generally one of the first steps in angine reassembly; it is assumed at this point that the engine block and crankshaft'have been cleaned, inspected and rapaired or reconditioned . 2 Position the engine with the boltom facing up. 3 Remove the main bearing cap bolts and lift out tha caps. Lay them out in the proper order to help ensure that they are installed correctly. 4 If they are still in place. remove the old bearing inserts from the block and the main bearing caps. Wipe the main bearing surfaces of the block and caps with a clean, linHree cloth (they must be kept spotlessly clean). 5 Clean the back side of the new main bearing inserts and lay one bearing half in each main bearing saddle in the block. LaV the other bearing half from aach bearing set in the corresponding main bearing cap. Make sure the tab on the bearing insert fits into the recess in the block or cap. Also, the oil hotes in the block and cap must line up with the oil holes in the bearing insert. Do not hammer the bearing into place 8nd do not nick or gouge the bearing faces. No lubrication should be used at this time. 6 The flanged thrust bearing must be inatalled in the number three (3) (center) cap and saddle. 7 Clean the faces of the bearings in the block and the crankshaft main bearing journals with a clean, lint·free cloth. Check or clean the oil holes in the c rankshaft, as any dirt here can only go one way straight through the new bearings. 8 Once you are certain I hat the crankshaft is clean, carefully lav it in position (an assistant would be very helpful here) in the main bear· ings with the counterweights lying sideways. 9 Before the crankshaft can be permanentlv installed, the main bear· Ing oil clearance must be checked. 10 Cut five pieces of the appropriate type of PlBstigage slightlv shorter than the width of the main bearings. Place one piece on each crankshaft main bearing journal, parallel with the journal axis. Do not lay them across any all lines. 11 Clean the faces of the bearings in the caps and make sure the caps are not mixed up. Install the caps in theif respective positions with the arrows pointing toward the front of the engine. Do not disturb the Plastigage. 12 Starting with the center main and working out toward the ends, tighten the main bearing cap bolts, in three steps, to the specified tor· que. Do not rotate the crankshaft 8t any time during this opefation. 13 Remove the baits and carefullv lift off the main bearing caps. Keep them in order. Do nut disturb the Plastigage or rotate the crankshaft. If any of the main bearing caps are difficult to remove, tap gently from side·to·side with a soft· faced hammer to loosen them. 14 Compare the width of the crushed Plastigage on each journal to the scale printed on the Plastigage container (photo) to obtain the main bearing oil clearance. Check the Specifications to make sure it is correct. 15 If the clearance is not correct. double·check to make sure that

Install tha front oil seal in the timing chain cover. Coat the ends of the seal with RTY·type sealant. 2 Coal the rear oil pan seal curved surfaca and the end seal tabs with RTY· tvpe sealant and install the seal in the rear main bearing cap. Make sure the seal is completelV saatad. 3 Cement the oil pan side gasket to tha engine block sealing sur· faces with gasket sealant. Apply a generous coat of RTV· tvpe sealant to the gaskeT ends. 4 Install the oil pan and bolts and tighten the bolts to the specified torque in a crisscross pattern.

94

Crankshaft -

ramoval

Before remov ing the crankshaft. you must remove the flywheel /driveplate, the rear oil seal housing, the cylinder heads, the oil pan. the timing chain cover and the timing chain and sprockets. 2 With the engine upside·down, remove the oil pick· up tube and 5(:reen assemblv. 3 Remove the piston assemblies from the engine block as de· scribed in Chapter 2A . 4 Refer to Chapter 2A for the remarnrng crankshaft removal steps.

95.14 Comparing the width of the crushed Plastigage to the scale on the container

2D

"

20-10

Chapter 2 Part 0

VQU hBVe the right size beering InserlS. Also, make sure that no dirt or oil was between Ihe bearing inserts and the main bearing caps or the block when the clearance was measured. 16 Carefully screpe all traces 01 the Plntigage material off the main bearing journals and/or the beering faces. 00 not nick or seuneh the

4

beering leces.

97

17 Carefully lift Ihe crankshaft out 01 the engine. Clean Ihe bearmg face. in the block, then apply 8 thio, uniform layer of clean, hlgh-qual,ty moly-besed grease 10f engine assembly lube) to each of the bearing faces. Be SUIe 10 coal Ihe thrUSI flange faces as well as the journal face of the thrust bearing in the number three (center) main. Make sure the crankshalt journlls Ire clean, then cerelully ley it back in piece in the block. Clean Ihe Ilces 01 the bearings in the caps, then apply a thin lever 01 cleen, high-quelity moIy·based grease to each of the bearing feces end install the capi in their respectIve posilions with the arrows pointing toward the Iront of the engine. Inllall the bolts and lighten them to the specIfied torque, starting WIth the center maIn and work· Ing out toward the ends. Work up to the finel torque in three lIeps. 16 Rotate Ihe crenksheh a number of times by hand and check fOf env obvious binding. The final step is to check the crenkshaft end play. ThIS can be done with a feeler gauge or a dial indicator set. Refer to Chepter 2A. " Section t2, for the procedure to follow.

96

VB engine

If the original crankshaft is reground, the !lUlomotJve maenine shop thai reconditions the journals should supplV beaungs Ihat Will produce the de~med 011 clearance.

Engine - lo,"halion

1 wwer the engine slowly and c81elully ,nto the eng,ne compartment. Align the transmission input shah with Ihe engIne. On manuel transmISSIon models this will reqUIre aligning the sphnes of the input shaft and clutch plete. Instell the trensmlssion hOUSing retaining bolts and tighten them securely. 3 Remove the jack supporting the transmission. 4 On automatic transmission eqUipped models. align the marks made on the converter and driveplate and install the retaining bolts. Be sure to lighten them to the specified torque. 5 Instanthe automatic lfansmiSSlon inspection covel or the menual transmiSSIon lower cover. 6 Install the starter motor. 7 On four wheel drive models, ettech the left Iront engine suPPOrt cushion and bracket to the cvlinder block end tIghten the bolts securety. 6 LDwer the engine wei