Natural Wonders of Massachusetts: A Guide to Parks, Preserves & Wild Places (Natural Wonders Of...)

Natural Wonders .--Of-

Massachusetts

I{atural Wbnders

Massachse AGuideto Parks,Preselves &Wild Places Nancy Prajzner Illustratedby Harriet Corbett

Ceuntrry- Rea,d,t Pne,t,t CASTINEoMAINE

Natural Wondersof Massachusetts @ 1994by NancyPrajzner.All rightsreserved. Published by Country Roads Press P.O. Box 286, Lower Main Street Castine, Maine 04421 Text and cover designby Studio 3. Cover photograph @ Kindra Clineff 1994. Illustrations by Harriet Corbett. Typesetting by Typeworks.

rsBN r-56626-108-2

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-publication Data Prajzner, Nancy. Natural wonders of Massachusetts/ author, Nancy prajzner ; illustrator, Harriet Corbett. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references(p. 124) and index. ISBN l-56626-108-2 : $9.95 - Guidebooks. 2. Natural history 1. Massachusetts Massachusetts- Guidebooks. 3. Natural areas- MassachusettsGuidebooks. 4. Parks- Massachusetts-Guidebooks. 5. Botanicalgardens-Massachusetts-Guidebooks. I. Title.

F62.3.P73 1994 -dc20 917.4404'43

Printed in the United Statesof America. l0 9 8 7 6 5 4321

94-18860 CIP

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Contents Introduction

WESTERN MASSACHUSETTS Sage'sRavine Bash Bish Falls Bartholomew'sCobble Monument Mountain Reservation Ice Glen Pittsfield State Forest Mount Greylock StateReservation Natural Bridge StatePark Windsor Jambs StateParklWindsor StateForest Chesterfield Gorge Bridge of Flowers/GlacialPotholes Northfield Mountain ConnecticutRiver Boat Ride ConnecticutRiver FishwaYs Holyoke Range State Park/Skinner State Park Quabbin Reservoir Park and Reservation

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2 CENTRALMASSACHUSETTS Harvard Forest Doane's Falls Otter River State Forest/Lake Dennison RecreationArea WachusettMountain State Reservation Tower Hill Botanic Garden Purgatory Chasm StateReservation Douglas State Forest/CedarSwamp Trail Blackstone River and Canal Heritage StatePark The Butterfly Place Walden Pond StateReservation Great Meadows National Wildlife Refuge

4I 43 44 45 47 50 52 54

s6 58 63

3 EASTERN MASSACHUSETTS Garden in the Woods Parker River National Wildlife Refuge/ Plum Island Ipswich River Wildlife Sanctuary Middlesex Fells Reservation Walter J. Stone Memorial Zoo New England Aquarium Boston Harbor Islands State Park Emerald Necklace Blue Hills Reservation World's End Reservation

66 69 72 75 77 78 82 85 90 93

CAPE COD Cape Cod National Seashore Asumet Holly and Wildlife Sanctuary Nickerson State Park Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge

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Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary Whale Watch

il8 120

SelectedReferences SelectedAgencies Index

124 126 128

Introduction

I was standingatop QuabbinHill when I saw a few faint streaksof color in the distanceto the northeast. [t was the beginningof a rainbow. The entire arch of color formed as I stood watching. Justas graduallythe color dissipated,but only for a few moments.Soon light rays formed a secondcolorful, arch. The rainbow mademe realizewhat wondersnature offers. They often are nearby. The unspoiled Quabbin Reservoirin Belchertownis just twenty minutes from my home. In winter I might see a majestic eagle soar aboveits waters. Massachusettspacks a lot of wonderful sights in just 8,284 squaremiles. In my outings acrossthe Bay State I walked pristine beacheson Cape Cod, went deep into an Atlantic white cedar swamp, smelled the

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fragrancesof wildflowers, and climbedto the summit of 3,491-footMount Greylockin the Berkshires. Besideseaglesat Quabbin,I sawhumpbackwhales in the Atlantic Ocean,harbor sealson winter beachesat the Cape, and white-taileddeer in the forestsof central and westernMassachusetts. It was a wonderful endeavor.Many times I felt as though I had reachedthe pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. Many people along the way contributed to my learning experiences,particularly membersof the MassachusettsDivision of Parksand Forests,Massachusetts Trustees of Reservations,Metropolitan District Commission, Cape Cod National Seashore,and MassachusettsAudubon Society.I owe them all a thank-you. Justashelpful were the ardentbirdwatchersI met at Mount Tom Reservation,QuabbinReservoir,and Parker River National Wildlife Refuge. They readily shared their viewing scopesand expert knowledge.They gladly pointed out red-shoulderedhawks, American kestrels, and crossbills. A note on walking trails in Massachusetts. Raccoon rabies has been increasing.Rabiesis spreadthrough a bite or scratchfrom an infectedanimal.Do not feed wild animals or approachthem. Always inspect for ticks after a hike. Deer ticks causeLyme disease,a debilitating illnessif it is not detected and treatedearly.

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SAGB'S RAVINE My decisionto visit Sage'sRavinelate in the year was rewardedwhen a white-taileddeerbolted acrossthe trail twenty yardsaheadof me. I'm not sure who was startled more. I had put off my visit until early Decemberin the hope that I could sit undisturbed and listen to Sage's Ravine Brook as it danced over the rocks and raced throughthe mile-long gully in the bucolic town of Mount Washington.That's not alwayspossibleduring summer and early fall, the two prime hiking seasonsin Massachusetts. Areaspostedwith signswarningvisitors to keepoff

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erodedbanksattestto the popularityof the ravine, which is accessibleonly on foot. The AppalachianTrail passes throughthe ravine,bringinghordesof casualhikers,and in August, through-hikers on theirjourneyfrom Georgia to Maine. On the brook's north side sits a campingarea that is a highly sought-afterdestination for an overnight stay. The AppalachianMountain Club maintainsthe campground,which containsten sites, some with tent platforms. Carved out by Sage'sRavineBrook, the ravine is wild and beautiful.The brook is clear and cold. It was swollen from the previous day's sleetand snow when I visited. The white-blazedAppalachianTrail follows a narrow, slippery path between the brook and the steep, rock-strewn southernslope. Yellow birch, red maple, and easternhemlock cling to the hillside, which ferns carpet in places. American beech and mountain laurel dominatethe sunnierand drier oppositeside. Sage's Ravine Brook descendsroughly 400 feet before it leavesthe ravine. More beautyawaits as Bear Rock Falls lies one and a half miles to the north. Where: Thke Massachusetts Turnpike to exit 2 in Lee. Take State 183 south to Stockbridgeand then State 7 south to Great Barrington. Turn right onto State41 and follow Egremontsignsto the junction of State23. Turn right onto Mount WashingtonRoad, which becomesEast Streetin the town of Mount Washington.Roadbecomes gravel just south of Mount WashingtonState Forest

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headquarters. Follow for anotherthreemiles. The small parking areais on the left just before the road ends. Follow a blue-blazedtrail spur for twenty minutes until it reachesthe white-blazedAppalachianTrail (AT). Turn left on the AT. Reach Sage'sRavine in a quarter mile. Best time to visit: Summerand fall. Early spring is mud season.The ravineis beautifulin winter when waterfalls arefrozen,but walkingis difficult in icy conditions.The road to the trailheadmight be impassable. An alternateroute is to take the Under Mountain Trail. It beginsoff State4l just over the border in Connecticut.It connectswith the AT and runs approximately four milesto Sage'sRavine.You canshortenthe distance by taking ParadiseLane Trail rather than the AT over Bear Mountain. Activities.'Hiking, camping, snowshoeing. Other: Heading north, the AppalachianTrail reaches the shortsidetrail to Bear Rock Falls andthenclimbs the summitsof Mount Race(2,365feet) and Mount Everett (2,6A2 feet). Just before the steep climb up Mount Everett,the RaceBrook Falls Trail entersfrom the right. It's worth a side trip in high-watertimes during spring and fall. It's a series of five beautiful falls. It's also reachedfrom a trail off State41. Headingsouthon the AppalachianTrail leadsto the summit of Bear Mountain (2,316 feet) in neighboring Connecticut.It's the highestmountainin Connecticut. For more information: AppalachianMountain Club, Berkshire Chapter, P.O. Box 1800,Lanesborough, MA 01237;413-M3-0011.

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BASH BISH FALLS Cascading1,000 feet through a seriesof gorgesand finally plummetingeighty feet into a sparklingpool, Bash Bish Falls is the most spectacularwaterfall in western Massachusetts. Its waters begin in a nondescriptspring high in Mount WashingtonStateForest. BashBish Brook gains speedand volume as it journeys downward. The water's force is best displayedat the top of the falls, where it rushes over the edge with a deafening roar. A granite outcroppingdivides the last sectionof the falls into two, fifty-foot cataracts. Below the pool Bash Bish Brook continuesdownward into neighboring New York and Thconic State Park. There is a different beauty and charm to the falls eachseason.Spring brings the greatestflow of water as snowmelt from surroundingmountains-Alander Mountain (2,239 feet) and BashBish Mountain (1,890)are the two highest-swell Bash Bish Brook and Bash Brook Falls. It's one of my favorite placesto usher in spring. The secondlargestvolume of water occurs in fall. It's also when foliage of red oak, sugarmaples,and yellow birches frames the falls. Water flow is greatly reducedin summer, exceptfor the quick rush after rainstorms. Aster and goldenrodin full bloom in surrounding woods try their best to make up for the diminished falls. Winter turns Bash Bish into a wonderlandof ice.

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Bash Bish Falls

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

Frozen spray coats the rocks and forms ice sculptures. Like most New Englandstreams,BashBish Brook was createdduring the melting of the last glacier,which coveredthe region 10,000to 20,000 years ago. During the glacier'sretreat it scrapedup sedimentthat blocked streambeds.Waterfalls, like Bash Bish, were formed when the blocked streamsbroke through and the waters rusheddown mountains,often following joints or weak points in the rock. sediment in the water continuesto erode the streambedtoday. A short trail leadsfrom the parking lot to the top of the falls and offers a view westward to the New York countryside.A steel-cabledfence nrns along the edgeof the cliffs. Another trail leadsdown to the pool below the falls. It's a popular spot for enjoying a cool spray and taking photographs. The surrounding 4,500-acre Mount Washington state Forest contains thirty miles of trails. The most strenuousis a five-mile hike that starts at forest headquartersand climbs over Alander and BashBish Mountains. The ridge line affords sweepingviews as far west as the Catskills. Sometimesthe attraction is closer. My approach madean excitedchipmunkdive into a groundholeon the trail's edge.I soon wished for a hole of my own to dive into when a driving rain began to fall. I was still two miles from my tent site at the Mount Washingtoncamping area. Another choicefor hikersis a state-ownedcabinbetween the north and south peaksof Alander Mountain. Just a mile north from the forest headquartersis

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Mount Everett State Reservationwith its picturesque Guilder Pond. One can hike 5.5 miles of the Appalachian Trail to Mount Everett or take the gravel auto road that endslessthan a half-mile from the top. Mount Everett, at 2,606 feet, is the trighestpeak south of Mount Greylock in the Berkshires. It offers wonderfulviews in all directions. Where: BashBish Falls is on Falls Road off East Street in Mount Washington.To reach Mount Everett State Reservationand Mount WashingtonState Forest, continue southon EastStreet. Besttime to visit: Water volume is highestin spring. Hours: Falls areais open dawn to dusk. Gate to Mount EverettRoadopens10:00A.M. to 6:00 P.M. May through October. Activities: Hiking, camping($5 at stateforest primitive sites, one mile walk-in), fishing, climbing by permit only, snowmobiling,snowshoeing,cross-countryskiing in forestand reservation. Pets: Allowed on leashat falls area. For more information: Park Supervisor,Mount WashingtonState Forest, MA 01258;413-528-0330' RFD 3, Mount Washington, or Region5 Headquarters,Pittsfield StateForest, P.O. Box 1433,Pittsfield, MA 01202;413-442-8928. BARTHOLOMEWS

COBBLE

More than 700 speciesof plants are found at Bartholomew'sCobble,a delightful placefor the seriousbotanist

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

Raccoonsmake themselvesat home almost anywhere

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and the casualnaturelover alike. The plantsthrive in the lime-rich soils of the 277-acrereservationin the tiny town of AshleyFalls. The natural rock garden beside the Housatonic River is recognizedby the National Park Service as a National Natural Landmark. The designationis justly deserved.So is the cobble'sclaim as home to the state's best display of ferns. Over forty-four ferns and related speciesgrow here-maidenhairand marsh fern, ostrich and cinnamonfern, club mossesand horsetails. The diverse plant life supportswhite-tailed deer, red fox, beavers,woodchucks,raccoons,cottontailrabandchipmunks.Birds flock to the cobble, bits, squirrelso either as a flyway during spring and fall migrations or as a placefor nesting.Over 240 specieshave been recorded.I wasentertainedby a raucouskingfisherdiving for fish in the Half River Elbow. The reservationis namedfor GeorgeBartholomew, who farmedthe surroundingland in the 1880s. All the beauty and life is due to the 5OO-year-old limestone outcrops called cobbles. The quartzite and marble forms soils dear to the alkaline-lovingplants. The proximity of the HousatonicRiver enrichesthe area further. The Trusteesof Reservationsmaintainsthe cobble, and its six-mile LedgesInterpretiveTrail loops through the woodlands.A booklet is availablefor the self-guided tour that introducesthe visitor to the cobble'snaturalhistory and plant life. The WestFenceTrail and Tulip Tree Trail climb to the top of Hurlburt's Hill for a sweeping view of the HousatonicValleyin the southernBerkshires.

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The Bailey Trail and SperoTrail provide enjoyable walks through floodplain forest and meadowsadjacent to the HousatonicRiver. Huge cottonwoodsare found along the Bailey Trail. A lucky visitor might see bank swallows ducking into holes in the riverbanks where their nestsare. Butterflies are abundant,especiallyin the openfields. Flowering plantsbloom through spring, summer,and fall. Each takesits turn: hepatica,violets, trillium, red columbine, Dutchman's-breeches,harebell, saxifrage, black-eyed Susans,and asters. The Housatonicand Half Rivers offer the treats. Ducks and geeseare usually seen.Even in winter they gatheron ice-freesections. Other times of the year painted turtles sun themselveson snags.I counteda dozenduring one visit. My approach startled them and they slipped into the water. One by one they resurfacedandjockeyedfor positionon a fallen tree. But it was back into the water when a muskrat swamtoo close for their comfort. Where: From Sheffield Center take State 7 south 1.6 miles. Turn right onto State7A and follow for one-half mile. Turn right onto RannapoRoad and follow for 1.5 miles to WeatogueRoad. Entranceis on left. Hours: Trails open daily 9:00 A.M. to 5:00 p.M. yearround. The rustic Bailey Natural History Museum is openWednesday throughSunday9:00 A.M. to 5:00 p.M. mid-April to mid-October. Admission: A nominal fee is charged. Best time to visit: Spring through early fall.

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Activities.'Hiking, cross-countryskiing, photography, plant, bird and wildlife observation,picnicking, canoeing. Pets: Allowed on leash. Other: The ColonelJohnAshley Houseis locatedon the reservation.Built in 1835,it is one of the oldesthouses in BerkshireCounty and is on the National Registerof Historic Places. Guided tours are offered seasonally. 413-298-8600. For more information: Trusteesof Reservations,P.O. Box 792, Stockbridge, MA 01262; 413-298-3239.

MOhIUMENT MOUNTAIN RESERVATION Light-colored quartzite rock and a steepeasternslope with a jumble of boulders gives Monument Mountain a distinctivelook. The 1,640-footSquaw Peakatop the mountain provides fine views west to the TaconicRange, eastto the HoosacRange,north to Mount Greylock, and south to Mount Everett. The sceneryis outstandingduring the heightof the fall foliage. The Trusteesof Reservationsmanagesthe 503-acre reservationin Great Barrington and maintainstwo trails to the summit. The 1.25-mile Indian Mountain Trail startsat the southernend of the parking lot. It is a gentle stretch. The three-quarter-mileHickey Trail begins on the northernendof the parking lot. It is moderatelysteep and badly eroded in places. It passesa small waterfall and rock boulder which honors Rosalie Butler, who

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conveyed the land to Massachusetts in 1g99. In early summer mountainlaurel and sheeplaurer in full bloom cover the woodland. The two trails meetjust below the summit for the short but rugged final ascentthrough low-bush blueberry, pine, and dwarfed northern red oak to the exposed top of SquawPeak. As you follow the trail along the precipitousedge, the cliffs seemto just fall away.It's no placefor the fainthearted.The top of the mountainis a seriesof quartzite rock outcrops.The most striking is a pile of white rock known as "Devil's Pulpit." The summit is a good place to observemigrating birds, particularly a hawk flight in the spring. Hawks and turkey vultures fly over in lesser numbers in the autumn. The most famous visitors to Monument Mountain were Nathaniel Hawthorne and Herman Melville. The writers supposedlymet for the first time in August of 1850and hiked to the rop for a picnic. where: From MassachusettsTurnpike take exit 2 in Lee. Follow State 102 to stockbridge. Follow state 7 south for five miles. Parking lot is on right. Hourc: sunriseto sunsetyear-round.Donationrequested. Best time to visit: Spring, summer,fall. Activities: Hiking, picnicking. Pets: Allowed on leash. For rnore information: Trusteesof Reservations,WesternRegionalOffice, P.O. Box792, Stockbridge,MA 01262; 4t3-2gg-3239.

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ICE GLEN Ice Glen is a half-mile gorge strewn with bouldersand fallen hemlocks.A wave of cool air greetsvisitors. Ice remainsin the glen into early summer,lingering in deepcrevices.Steamforms as the cold moisturerises. Even in midday the placeis a bit eerie. In fact, the town of Stockbridgeholdsa torchlightparadethroughthe glen on Halloween. Huge hemlocks and white pine line the sides, letting in little sunlight and helping create the cool conditions. A blue-blazedtrail leadsthe way through the maze. It's a scrambleover moss-coveredrocks. It's quite slippery in spring when ice coatsthe boulders. At the northern end of the ravine a trail leads to Laura's Tower. The twenty-five-foot-highmetal tower risesjust abovethe treetopsof birch, American beech, maples,and oaks.I sharedthe platform with two couples from New York who enjoyeda picnic-complete with red-and-whitecheckeredtablecloth. Where: Take State7 south from Stockbridge center and turn left onto Ice Glen Road. The trail, marked with a smallsign, beginson the left on a private driveway.Park on the side of the road. Hours: Sunriseto sunset. Besttime to visit: Summerandfall. Trails are accessible in winter and spring but are icy. Activities: Hiking, picnicking. Pets: Allowed.

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For more information: Laurel Hill Associationmaintainstrails.Call Stockbridge Town Hall; 413-298-4714.

PITTSFIELD STATE FOREST This is my idea of camping. My tent is pitchedon the edgeof Berry Pond,the highestnaturalbody of water in at 2,150feet. Massachusetts Surprisinglyfor its size- 9,695 acres-Pittsfield State Forest is often overlooked, standing as it does between two larger neighbors, Mount Greylock State Reservationand October State Forest. Anyone who ignoresit is missinga gem. Sincethe crowdsgo elsewhere,it's easyto securea campsitemost anytime, even on holiday weekends,and walk on the footpathsin near solitude. Fishermencan cast a line from shore or boat and catch a trout in stream-fedBerry Pond. Then cook the succulent fish in the frying pan on the grill at your campsite. The thirteencampsiteson the pond'ssouthernshore are not for the comfort-loving camper. The sites are primitive. Dig pit toiletsand bring your own water.But it's cheap($8) andthe settingis worth the inconvenience. Campsites($10)with running water and flush toilets are availablebelow Berry Pond near forest headquarters. Pittsfield StateForest is a havenfor hikers. Thirty miles of trails crisscrossthe hillsides and woodlands, where maples,red oaks, and hawthornsgrow. Mountain bikes and horsesare welcome on designatedtrails.

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Two interstatetrails, Thconic Crest Trail and Thconic Skyline Trail, travel through the westernedge, giving the ambitioushiker a chancefor a more venturesomeouting. Thconic Crest Trail travels north twentythreemiles from Berry Pondto Pownal, Vermont,while Skyline Trail nrns twenty-threemiles from Richmond north to Williamstown.It crossesover the surrounding BerkshireHills and acrossinto New York. The scenery is splendidin the fall when the trees are ablazein colorful foliage. On a more modestlevel, BerkshireHills Ramble and Woods Ramble are one-mile, self-guided nature trails. Brochuresfor both are available at forest headquarters.The two trails combinelessonsin naturewith pleasantscenery.BerkshireHills Ramblegoesthrougha twenty-acrefield of azaleas.Woods Ramble tells the story of a new forest born in the mid-1800safter the original forest was cut by settlersfor firewood and used as pastureland. One of the new wheelchair-accessible trails in the parks and forest systemis found at PittsMassachusetts field State Forest. The asphalt-pavedTranquility Trail makesa half-mile loop through the woods. A wheelchair-accessible restroomand picnic areaare nearby. Lulu Pond lures the hiker for a refreshingswim. The forest is just as much fun to visit in winter. There's a well-marked trail system for cross-country skiersand anotherfor snowmobiles.A rustic lodge built in the 1930sby the Civilian ConservationCorpsis available for group rental. Where: Take Massachusetts Turnpike west to exit 2 in

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Lee. Follow State7 north to downtownPittsfield. Turn left onto West Street. Go past Onota Lake and take a right on Churchill Streetand a left onto CascadeStreet. Entranceis at end of road. Hours: Sunriseto sunset. Best time to visit: Year-round. Activities: Hiking, camping,picnicking, swimming, fishing, cross-countryskiing, snowmobiling,snowshoeing. Pets: Allowed on leash. Other: October StateForest is back in Lee. At 16,000 It's acres it is the largest state forest in Massachusetts. extremely popular with huntersand snowmobilers. The most scenic trail goes through the l.5-mile Schermerhorn Gorge. Fifty campsitesare available; some are wheelchairaccessible. For more information: Pittsfield State Forest, CascadeStreet, Pittsfield, MA 01201;413-442-8892.OctoberStateForest,Woodland Road, Lee, MA 01238; 413-243-1778.

MOUNT GREYLOCK STATE RESERVATION Fog enshroudedthe summit of Mount Greylock, and a strong, cold wind blew as I beganmy descentdown the Hopper Trail pastbalsamfir, whosegrowth is stuntedby harsh conditions. Mount Greylock is close to being a wilderness. The 3,491-footpeak is the state'shighest.Its upper 900 feet resemble a boreal community, a northern forest found most often in New Hampshire'sWhite Mountains and Canada.

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Red Spruceand yellow birch grow on the cool, wet northern reaches.The only northern mountain ash in Massachusetts is found on Mount Greylock. Sphagnum mossthrivesin isolatedbogs. On a clear day the summitoffers views of up to 100 miles across Massachusettsand into New York, Vermont, and New Hampshire. The ninety-two-foot War VeteransMemorial Tower atop the rocky peak is open daily during summer and fall. Weatherconditions can changerapidly. Thirty minutesbefore fog envelopedthe area,dawn'ssunlight had streakedthe sky. I had stayedovernightat venerableBascomLodge, which provides accommodationsfor thirty-two people from mid-May through mid-October. The two-story rustic stoneand wood lodge offers both dormitory-style roomsand private ones, and mealsservedfamily style. A favorite pastime of overnight guestsis to gather aroundthe stonefireplacein the great room after dinner and share stories about hiking and other outdoor experiences.On this evening someonebrought up five black bear sightingsreportedin early September. I had spent the previous night at Sperry Campground locatedabout 2.5 miles below the summit. The Massachusetts Division of Forest and Parks maintains the campingareaof thirty-five individual and five group sites.It provideseasyaccessto severaltrails, including footpaths to Deer Hill Falls and spectacularMarch Cataract. The 12,500-acre reservation contains forty-five miles of trails. Nearly eight miles of the famed AppalachianTrail dissectthe reservationon its 2,155-mile journey from Georgiato Maine. AppalachianTrail users

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

often sign registers at Bascom Lodge and elsewhere along the route. The weather-beatenblue notebookat the trail intersectionon Mount Williams was full of inscriptions, both seriousand humorous,describingtrail conditions, the weatherand hikers' stateof mind. First-time visitors should stop at the visitors center at the Rockwell Road entranceon the southernside of the reservation.The center containsexhibits about the reservation'sgeology, birds, and other wildlife. Trail maps are available, and staff from the Division of Forests and Parks and the AppalachianMountain Club are on hand to answer questions.Rockwell Road and Notch Road go to the summit and are open mid-May to early November,weatherpermitting. Debate continueson whether the name Greylock refers to the gray clouds and mists that often surround the peak, or Chief Gray-lock, a leaderof the Waranock Indians who oncelived in the region. With so large an area it's best to tackle one section at a time. The Hopper is a good placeto start. The bowlshapedvalley contains old-growth forest with standsof red spruce more than 200 years old. The National Park Service has designated the area a National Natural Landmark. The most spectacularview of the Hopper is from Stony Ledge, which is easily reachedvia Sperry Road. A more strenuousroute, open to hikers and mountain bike riders, is Stony Ledge Trail. It starts far below at Goodell Hollow. The rock outcropping known as Stony Ledge drops 1,400 feet. It affords a sweepingview that encompasses

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the west slopeof Mount Greylock, Mount Fitch (3,100 fee$, Mount Williams (2,951), and Mount Prospect (2,690). Hopper and Money Brooks ramble throughthe valley below and March Cataractroars in the distance. The common raven and other birds add their voicesto the soundsof nature. Hopper Trail begins on farmland off the dirt Hopper Road. It sharesthe path with Money Brook Trail for a short distance through pastureland before Money Brook swings left and Hopper heads right and begins a steady,moderatelystrenuousclimb. The blue-blazed trail goes through a forest of northern hardwood and basswood.In springtime,hepatica,Dutchman's-breeches, and other flowers color the forest floor. But autumn is my favorite time. The deepgreenof conifers providesa backgroundfor brilliant red, yellow, and orangefoliage of maple,beech,birch, and oak. In about an hour, the trail reaches Sperry Road Campground.The trail follows the road for a short distance,and then reentersthe woodson the left, where it continuesthe ascentto the summit, which takesanother half-hourto reach. A 6.5-mile loop is possibleby taking the AppalachianTrail north from the summit to Mount Fitch and then down Money Brook Trail. A side path leadsto Money Brook Falls, tucked deepinto the hillside. One can swing even farther north on the AppalachianTrail and climb over Mount Williams, go across Mount ProspectTrail, and then join Money Brook Trail. The descentfrom Mount Prospectto Money Brook is one of the steepestand roughestin the reservation.

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Two good choicesfor side trips are OverlookTrail, which featuresthree scenicoutlooks acrossthe Hopper, and March CataractTrail. which leadsto the tallestand most spectacularwaterfall in the reservation.The flow of water at March Cataract and other waterfalls is highestin the spring. I find them most beautifulwhen they are coatedin layersof ice in latefall or earlyspring. For the expert and well-preparedoutdoor enthusiast, they are worth the trek in the winter. One of the most popular routesto the summit is up the southernslopevia the AppalachianTrail. A parking lot off Rockwell Roadprovidesaccessto the trail, which climbs up JonesNose, a promontory with fine views to the southeast.The AT follows the ridge line over Saddle Ball Mountain. Birches and oak dominatethe forest. JonesNose is one of the few open areasin the reservation. Blueberry bushes,chokeberry,and mountainash grow here. Flowers are bountiful in the sun-drenched meadows. A variety of birds are found aroundthe reservation. Thrushes are plentiful: there are veery, gray-cheeked, wood, and Swainson's.The tapping of pileatedwoodpeckers is sometimesheard as well as the singing of white-throatedsparrows,junco, and warblers. It's not uncommon to startle grouse while one walks along the trails. Turkey vulturesand red-tailedhawksfly overhead in strongwind currents. Small animals such as red and gray squirrels, woodchucks,raccoons,porcupines,and snowshoehare inhabit the reservation.So do coyote,fisher, white-tailed deer, black bear,and bobcat.

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Rockwell Road and Notch Road become maln skiers.Either routesfor snowmobilersandcross-country

road is an arduouseight-mile trek to the summit for the skier. Howling winds and bitter cold often await. So do spectacularviews on clear, crisp days. And so does a hair-raisingdescent. Expert backcountryskiers tackle the Thunderbolt Trail, Bellows Pipe Trail (both expert ski trails carved out in the 1930s),Stony Ledge Trail, CCC Dynamite Trail, and a sectionof the HopperTrail. Thesetrails and other hiking trails used by snowshoerscut through the forest'sdeepsnowsand ice-coatedrocks and trees. Seeing what plant and animal life must endure during a grueling winter increasesone's appreciationof their ability to survive. Where: Take State 2 west to North Adams. To enter from the north turn left one mile from downtown onto Notch Road.Follow to entrancegate.Anotherchoiceis Turnpike westto exit 2 inl.rue. to takethe Massachusetts Go north to Pittsfield. Follow State 7l2O north. Turn right onto Rockwell Road. Reachvisitors center in one mile. Hours: Opensunriseto half-hour after sunset.The visitors centeris open 9:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M. daily midand 8:00 A.M. to 4:00 P.M. weekMay to mid-October, endsand holidaysmid-Octoberto May. Notch Road and RockwellRoadto the summit are openmid-May to early November,weatherpermitting. War VeteransMemorial Tower is open 9:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M. mid-May to mid-October.

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

Best time to visit: Year-round. Fall foliage is spectacular. Winter accessis limited to snowmobilersand by foot. Activities: Hiking, mountain bike riding, picnicking, camping,hunting (in season),snowmobiling,snowshoeing, cross-countryskiing, interpretiveprograms. Pets: Allowed on leash. Other: BascomLodge is openmid-May to mid-October. cost for bunk bed is $30 (adult) and $19 (child). private room is $70. Dinner is $10, breakfastis $5 and trail lodge is $5. Reservationsare recommended. SpeeryCampgroundprovides thirty-five individual and group sites. There are fireplacesand running water, but no showersor flush toilets. sites are first-comefirstserved. Groups of five or more needreservations.cost is $8 for individual site, $16 for group site. Lean-to shelters are located off the Appalachian Trail in wilbur's crossing and near Peck's Falls off the Gould Trail. For more information: Mount Greylock State Reservation, Rockwell Road, Lanesborough,MA 01237; 4L3-499-4262or 413499-4263. Bascom Lodge: 413-743-1591.Appalachian Mountain Club: 413-443-0011.

NATURAL BRIDGB STATE PARK Natural Bridge State Park contains the only marble bridge in North America carved out by water. The bridge was formed about 13,000 years ago during the

WesternMassachusetts 23

retreat of the last glacier that covered New England. Meltwaters sculptedthe Hudson Brook Chasm and the bridge. Hundredsof millions of years earlier, heat and pressure during the mountain formation process had transformedlimestoneinto marble. Hudson Brook, a tributary of the Hoosic River, continuesto slowly wear away the chasm walls below Natural Bridge. Water volume is highest in the spring when rain and snowmeltturn the brook into a powerful torrent. Walkways on the chasm sides lead visitors down sixty feet for a close observationof the water rumbling through the 475-foot-longgorge. In summer, when the water is lower, algae,lichen, and mossescling to the sidesof the steepwalls. Ferns that favor limestonealso grow in the chasm. The Natural Bridge spanningthe chasm is twenty feet long and fifteen feet wide. Just upstfeamfrom the bridge is the only white marble dam in North America. A park rangeris on duty to answerquestions.Signs with brief explanationson how nature created the unusual formation are found along the walkway. Platformsfrom which to view the chasmare located alongthe fenced,woodenwalkways.The view eastfrom the top of the chasm looks toward the West Summit on the Mohawk Trail. An abandonedmarble quarry is adjacent to the ined whirte marbridge. The quarry producedcoarse-grai ble in the 1880s. The MassachusettsDepartment of Environmental Managementoverseesthe forty-nine-acrepark.

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

Where: From downtown North Adams follow State 8 (Beaver Street) north one-half mile. Turn left on McCauley Road to park entranceand parking lot above the old quarry. Hours: Open daily 10:00A.M. to 6:00 p.M. Memorial Day to late October. Admission: Small fee. Pets: Allowed on leash. Activifies: observing naturalhistoric site, picnicking. Other: Clarksburg State Park and Clarksburg State Forest are nearby.Directionsto statepark: from state g north, take Middle Road in clarksburg; to stateforest: take State2 to Blackington to West Road north. The state park contains a day-use area offering swimming, picnicking, and fishing.A scenictrail encircles MausertsPond. Fifty campsitesare locatednear the lake. The AppalachianTrail passesthrough the 2,933acre state forest. The area is popular with hunters, hikers, cross-countryskiers, and snowmobilers. For more infornation: Natural Bridge StatePark, Route 8, North Adams, MA 01247; 413-663-6392in summer; 413-663-6312in winter. ClarksburgStatePark and ClarksburgStateForest, Middle Road, Clarksburg, MA; 413-664-8345in summer; 413-442-8928in winter.

WINDSOR JAMBS STATE PARK/ WINDSOR STATE FOREST When you're standingat the top of the Windsor Jambs,

25 WesternMassachusetts

the roar is deafening as the water eighty feet below surgesheadlongthroughthe chasm. Swollen with snowmelt and early spring rains, Windsor Jambs Brook, a tributary of the Westfield River, is wild and frothy. It bouncesoff sheer walls of the twenty-five-foot-wide gorge. It scurries over boulders,fallen trees,and blocks of ice. Nothing blocks its path throughthe quarter-mile-longgorge. Windsor Jambsis thejewel of the 1,626-acreWindsor State Forest in the Berkshire foothills. The gorge cuts throughthick grovesof red spruceand easternhemlock. A footpath, with a metal safety fence, runs along the top of the gorge'swesternside. The forestis homeyear-roundto red squirrels, who seemto chatterincessantly.White-taileddeer fancy the place as well. There was an old set of black bear tracks acrossthe footpaththe day I took to the Jambs. There are two approachesto the ravine. You can walk the three-mile JambsTrail that starts at the campground near the forest headquarters,or you can drive up the gravel Lower Road to a parking lot at the top of the gorge. Where: Take State 9 west from Northampton twentytwo miles to Windsor. Turn right at the Windsor JambsWest Cummington road sign and go one mile through West Cummington. Turn right onto River Road and follow west threemiles to Windsor StateForest. Hours: Year-round.Parking areascloseat 8:00 P.M. Activities: Hiking, picnicking, swimming, camping, fishing, hunting in season,cross-countryskiing, snowshoeing,snowmobiling.

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

Pets: Allowed on leash. other: The three-mile steepBank Brook rrail connects windsor state Forest to Notchview StateReservation. The Trusteesof Reservationsmaintainsthe 3,000-acre reservation,which containstwenty-five miles of trails opento hikers and cross-countryskiers.It canbe reached by car off State9, aboutfive mileswestof the turnoff for Windsor StateForest. For more information: Windsor State Forest, River Road, Windsor, MA 01270; 413-684-0984. Notchview State Reservation: 413-684-0148. CHESTERFIELD GORGE The west Branch of the westfield River rushesthrough chesterfieldGorge before it flattensout 1,000feetdown river. The water is most forceful and wild in the spring when it racesover bouldersand snags.The volumeof water-and noise-is turnedup to the max. Trusteesof Reservationsis caretakerof the gorge and of the 161-acrereservationin WestCummington. A footpathto the left of a red woodenbuilding beside the parking lot leadsto the river's edge. Upstream the river sweepsaround the bend and ramblesover the first in a seriesof cascades.Pools at the bottom of each cascadeare deep and clear. Remnantsof High Bridge are visible on both sides of the gorge's entrance. The bridge was built in 1739 and spannedthe gorge as part of the Boston to Albany PostRoad.

WesternMassachusetts 27

Another foot trail with a metal safety fence runs along the top of the gorge. It offers views down into the ravine. Tall and statelyhemlock, ash, and oak grow on both sidesof the chasm. Where: TakeState9 west from Northamptonnine miles to Williamsburg and turn left onto State 143. Follow west ten miles to West Chesterfield. Cross the West ChesterfieldBridge and take the first left onto Ireland Street.Follow west .8 mile to River Road. Entranceand parking are on left. Hours: Open daily 8:00 A.M. to sunsetMay 1 to October 30. A small fee is charged. Besttirne to visit: Water level is highestin spring. Activities; Walking, picnicking, trout fishing. Pets: Allowed on leash. For more information: Trusteesof Reservations,WesternRegionalOffice, The Mission House, P.O. Box 792, Stockbridge,MA O1262;413-298-3229or 413-684-0184.

BRIDGE OF FLOWERS/GLACIAL POTHOLES The Bridge of Flowers gracesthe Deerfield River in ShelburneFalls on the scenicMohawk Trail. Colorful flowers, vines, and shrubsadorn the former trolley bridge. Canterbury bells, bachelor buttons, petunias,and roseswere amongthe hundredsof flowers in bloom during my visit on a delightful sun-splashed day in June.Butterfliesdancedfrom flower to flower. Over 500 speciesof plantsare found on the bridge.

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Natural Wonders of Massachusetts

With so much diversity, flowers are in bloom from spring throughfall. vines hang over the sidesof the five arches. Members of the Shelburne Falls Women,sClub volunteer their time to meticulouslymaintain the rows of flower beds.Their tender loving care is obvious. Today'sflowers grow where trolleys oncetraveled. The bridge was built in 1908 to carry trolleys over the river. It did so for twenty yearsuntil it was abandonedin 1928.Its demisewas short-lived. The following year, at the urging of Walter and Antoinette Burnham, money was raised to turn the bridge into a pathway of plants. Today the unique bridge is acclaimedinternationally. Just down the river from the Bridge of Flowers lies the Glacial Potholes, a cluster of circular holes in the Deerfield River bed. stairs lead down to the river's edge. Looking back upstream one sees a layered affay of colorful rocks. Large pools lie at the foot of the cascading water. The potholeswere createdby the grinding action of the gravel trapped in the bedrock cracks and whirled around by the water. Some are six inches in diameter. Others are severalfeet wide. Richard D. Little, a geology professorat Greenfield Community College, is an authority on the potholes. According to his book, Exploring Franklin county, A Geology Guide, light colors in the rocks are former sand grains metamorphosedinto quartz and feldspar. Dark colors are former ash depositsof old volcanos transformed into the mineral hornblende. The orange is actually rust. Even if you're not a geology buff, the potholesare worth a visit just for their unusuallook.

WesternMassachusetts 29

Where: ThkeI-91 to exrt26 in Greenfield.Follow State 2 west for nine miles. Turn left onto SouthMaple Street at sign for ShelburneFalls. Veerleft onto Bridge Street. Signslead to bridge and potholes. Hours: Sunriseto sunset. Best time to visit: Spring, summer,fall. Admission: Free. Activities: Walking, flower and geology study. Pets: No. Other: State2 is the famousMohawk Trail. It runs along the Deerfield River in stretches.There are places for picnicking, hiking, camping,whitewaterrafting, hot-air ballooning,maple sugarsampling,and sightseeingfrom summit observationtowers. For more information: Franklin County Chamberof Commerce; 413-7735463.

NORTHFIELD MOUNIAIN CONNECTICUT RIVER BOAT RIDE The wooden-hulled QuinnetukutII gently left its mooring and glided south acrossthe smooth waters of the ConnecticutRiver. It was a cool mid-Octobermorning, madeeven cooler by the breezethe boat created. Attentionwasdrawn to the river's banks,which rise sharply on the left and on the right and becomenearly vertical cliffs. Oaks, maples,and birches on the slopes of French King Gorge were ablazein their fall foliage finery of red, orange,and yellow. QuinnetukutII slipped past French King Rock and

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

under French King Bridge before it roundeda bend and headedwest toward Barton Cove. The l.S-hour excursionis a learningexperience. The two-membercrew points out wildlife and provides commentaryon geologicalfeaturesand the river's uses. Native Americansnamedthe river Quinnetukut,or "Long Tidal River." When it passesthroughNorthfield, the river has traveled 286 miles from the Connecticut Lakes on the New Hampshire-Canadaborder and has another 123 miles to go to Long IslandSound. FrenchKing Gorgeis a narrowsformedmillions of years ago. Sedimentaryrocks on the right and older, harder metamorphic rocks on the left have undergone years of erosionand glacial activity. As QuinnetuketII approachesBarton Cove, passengerssearchtreetopsfor American bald eagles.Soon the distinctive white head and tail of a mature one are spotted.It sits elegantlyon the top branchof a bare tree. Another tree holds a nest. We are told that eaglesbuild nests of sticks and pine boughs thirty to 120feet off the ground in hardwood or conifer trees. Some nests are eight feet wide. The eagleat Barton Cove is believedto be one of the forty-one birds releasedfrom 1981to 1988at Quabbin Reservoireastof Northfield. After allowing passengersa final look at the magnificent birds, the boat's captain turns Quinnetukut II upriver for the six-mile return. Northfield Mountain Recreationand Environmental center offers the river excursions.Northeastutilities

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31

operatesthe center,which containstwenty-five miles of trails for hiking, cross-countryskiing, snowshoeing, and mountain bike riding, plus offering an orienteering courseandfitnesstrail. Where: Thke State2 to State 63 north. Northfield is on the right. through Hours: Open9:00A.M. to 5:00 P.M.Wednesday November, and daily during Sunday, April through winter for cross-countryskiing. Riverboat seasonruns from late May to mid-October, weather permitting. Reservationsrequired. Cost is $Z for adults, $0 for seniorsfifty-five and older, $3 for children. Best time to visit: Year-round. Admission: Trail use is free except for cross-country skiing. Pets: No. Activities.' Hiking, picnicking, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing,mountainbike riding, boat rides, horseback riding, orienteering, fitness trail, geology study, bird observation. Other: Bus tours are availablespring through fall to the 300-acre reservoir atop Northfield Mountain and the hydroelectricpowergeneratingfacility. Interpretiveprograms are availableat Barton Cove from mid-May to Labor Day. For more information: Northfield Mountain Recreationand Environmental Center,RR 2,Box 117,Northfield,MA 01360:'413659-3714.

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

CONNECTICUT RIVER FIS}TWAYS Every spring they arrive, first just a few, then by the hundreds,andfinally by the thousands. It's the American shad's annual spawning migration up the Connecticut River. For an up-closelook at the ritual, visit Northeast

In mid-April shad begin to migrate up the Connecticut River

WesternMassachusetts

33

Utilities' fishways at Holyoke Dam and Turner's Falls Dam. Viewing areasopen in early May. Water level and temperaturedictatethe progressof the fish upstream,so the openingdatevaries eachyear. My visit to the Holyoke Dam occurred on a day when thousandsof shadhitcheda ride up and over the dam. It looked like a rush as they passed the glass windows in the viewing area,swimming through a 300foot-long flume. They had just gotten an elevator ride fifty-two feet up from the tailrace. In some years over 500,000shadare lifted over the dam. Snakelikeeelsswampastas well. But to my disappointment,I didn't seean Atlantic salmon. A major effort to restore Atlantic salmonto the Connecticutwas startedin the 1980s.After the program'sinitial success, salmonreturnshave slowed. American shadand Atlantic salmonare anadromous fish. As such,they are born in fresh water, maturein the ocean,and return to the rivers where they were born to spawn.Americanshadmigratein spring; Atlantic salmon mostly migratein spring, althoughsomedo so in fall. For American shad, the journey begins in midApril whenthey leaveLong IslandSoundand headnorth up the 410-mileConnecticutRiver. Theseadult fish lived four to six yearsat sea. As early as 1955 the Holyoke Water Power Company began a rudimentary fish ladder, employing an elevator, hand nets, and barrels. A far more efficient systemhas sinceevolved.In Holyoke, an elevatorlifts fish over the dam. In Turner'sFalls, the fish swim up a seriesof ladders.

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

Further upriver are fishways at Vernon, Bellows Falls, and Wilder dams, openingthe river for migration from Connecticutto New Hampshire. Where: Thke I-91 to exit 16 in Holyoke and take State 116north. Holyoke Fishway is locatedoff Bridge Street (State11),just westof the Old CountyBridge.For Turner's Falls Fishwaytake I-91 to exit27 in Greenfield.Follow State2 eastto Turner's Falls. Viewing facility is on First Street,off AvenueA. Hours: Wednesday through Sunday,9:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M., early May to mid-June. Admission: Free. Activities: Fish viewing. Guides provide information about the natural history of anadromousfish and the restorationprogram of the ConnecticutRiver. For more intormation: Northfield Mountain Recreation and Environmental Center,RR 2, Box 117,Northfield, MA 01360;413659-3714. Holyoke Water Power Company, I Canal Street, Holyoke, MA 01040; 413-536-5520.

HOLYOKE RANGE STATE PARK/ SKINNER STATE PARK Thke your pick. On the western end of the Holyoke Rangeis Mount Holyoke (878 feet) with scenicvistasof the Connecticut River Valley. On the easternend seven miles away standsMount Norowottuck (1,106feet) with its 250-foot easterncliff.

WesternMassachusetts 35

In betweenlies a seriesof hills separatedby sharp, deepvalleys.Holyoke RangeStatePark consistsof nearSkinnerStatePark. The ly 3,000 acresand encompasses range is unusual in that it runs west to east rather than south to north. The unusualalignmentcreatestwo distinct forest habitats, with the ridge line forming the boundarybetweenthe two. On the southernslope oaks and hickoriesgrow in an environmentthat is dryer and warmerthan on the north side, which is steep,cool, and moist and supportshemlocks,white pines, beeches,and birches. The notch splits the rangeinto two sections.State 116passesthrough it and providesaccessto the Notch Visitor Center, a good place to begin your exploration and obtaina trail map. There are forty-five miles of trails, including elevenmiles of the Metacomet-MonadnockTrail. I followed it eastfrom the Notch Visitor Centertwo miles to Mount Norwottuck. Hidden 150 feet below the summit are weatheredrocks and ledges known as the Horse Caves.It was here that Daniel Shaysand his followers hid their horsesduring ShaysRebellion.Today,a narrow path scramblesaround rock shelters.Moss and lichens cover the ledges. Mount Holyoke is five miles west of the Notch Visitors Center.I took the M & M Trail, a strenuoushike over BareMountain(1,010feet),Mt. Hitchcock(1,005), the SevenSisters,and Taylor'sNotch. Mount Holyoke is the site of the historic Summit House,which has been restoredto its appearanceof the 1880s.The one-room structurewas one of the earliest

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

mountain-top inns in North America when it opened in 1821. There still are remains of the steam-powered tram that took visitors from the halfwav area to the summit. Mount Holyoke affords spectacularviews of the valley lowlandsand the ConnecticutRiver. Mount Tom Rangelies to the south. An easierway to the summit is the auto road that begins at the entranceof Mountain Road. Trails to the summit beginhereas well. Where: Thke I-91 to exit 19 in Northampton. Follow State 9 west to State47 south. Turn left onto Mountain Road and entranceto Skinner StatePark. To reach Notch Visitors Center continue on State 9 west to Amherst center and turn right onto State 116.Follow south. Entrance is on left. Hours: Mount Holyoke summit road is open mid-April to mid-November.The summit houseis open mid-May to mid-October. Notch Visitors Center is open yearround, 9:00 A.M. to 4:00 p.M. daily. Closed Tuesday and Wednesdayin winter. Activities: Hiking, picnicking, horsebackriding, interpretive programs,cross-countryskiing, snowshoeing. Pets: Allowed on leash. For more information: Holyoke RangeStatePark, 1500WestStreet, Amherst, MA 01002; 4L3-253-2883.Skinner State Park, Box 91, Route47, Hadley,MA 01035;413-586-0350 or 4t3-253-2883.

WesternMassachusetts 37

QUABBIN RESERVOIRPARK AND RBSERVATION Enfield Lookout, one of the best and most accessible placesfrom which to look at eaglesat Quabbin Reservoir, did not disaPPoint. Five of the magnificentbirds were sighted during one of my visits on a cold, blusteryday in early January' All were mature eagles,at least five or six years old. Only the adult bald eagle has the distinctive white tail and head.Its wingspanextendssevenfeet.

i*',r.

't.,;i.. "_.

Co to Enfield lookout to spot eagles

38

Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

Immature bald eagles generally are completely brown, althoughsome may havea few white feathers. It takespracticeto spotan eaglein the vastterrain. High-poweredbinocularsor a scopeis a must. A group of dedicatedeaglewatchersset up their equipmentpractically every Saturdayand Sundayduring the winter when the eaglescome to the areafor the abundantfood supply.Someof the birds arepart of an eaglerestoration programbegunat Quabbina decadeago. Enfield Lookout is a high promontory on the southernend of the reservoir,which coversthirty-nine squaremilesand is the largestin Massachusetts. It looks out acrossto PrescottPeninsula,where eaglesare most often seen. It takes a trained eye to pick out an eagle a mile away. The white head is distinctive,but it also blends into a backdropof white snow.But luck wason our side. One eagle, then another, was spotted in the hernlock trees about twenty feet apart. It was the beginningof a wonderful afternoon.Later, an eaglewas perchedatopa barren tree when another swept down, drove the occupant off, and claimed the seat for its own. Even more spectacularwas the flight of a bald eagle circling over the water, riding the updrafts. More than ten minutes passedbeforethe eagleflew out of sight. When winter's grip is strongestand the reservoiris frozen, a life-and-deathstruggleoften takesplaceon the ice surface.Coyotesand packsof dogschasedown hungry and weak deer. The carcassesprovide a sourceof food for eaglesand other animals. The scenesare remindersthat Quabbinis essentially

WesternMassachusetts 39

a wilderness.It sprawls over 126 square miles. The reservoirhasa shorelineof l18 milesand a 4l2-billiongallonwatercapacity. Four towns-Dana, Enfield, Prescott,and Greenwich-were floodedto createthe reservoirin the Swift River Valley.Watercoversremnantsof the towns, where 2,500 peopleonce lived. Constructionof the reservoir beganin 1926.The Windsor Dam and GoodnoughDam were finishedin 1939, and it took anothersevenyears for the reservoirto fill. A visitors center in QuabbinPark in the southern end of the watershedin Belchertowncontainsexhibitson the transformation.QuabbinPark alsocontainseighteen milesof markedtrails, old roadwaysandpavedroadsfor hiking, designatedpicnic areas,and Quabbin Summit with a stonelookout tower. The northern reachesin Petershamand Salemare more remote. Large areasof the reservationlands are closedto the public to protectwatershed. "The Big LadY," as the Quabbin is affectionately known, containspracticallyeverykind of freshwaterfish lake,brown, and rainbowtrout, foundin Massachusetts: landlockedsalmon,bass,white and yellow perch, pickerel, and bullheads.The Quabbinfishing seasonopens the third Saturdayin April. Turnpike take exit 7. FolWhere: From Massachusetts low State 2L northeastand then State 2O2 eastfourteen miles to BelchertownCenter. Take State9 east for two miles. Entranceis on left. Hours: Sunriseto sunset.Visitorscenteris openweek-

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

EAGLEWATCHING Quabbin Reservoiris a premier eagle-watchingarea. Here are a few hints for sightings.High-poweredbinoculars or viewing scope is a must. Bald eagle: the most common variety found at euabbin. The aduft's head and tail are all white, and its beak is yellow. Wingspan may exceed seven feet. Wings are practically horizontal when it soars. The immature bald eagle lacks the white head and tail. It is generally brown, but it may have a few white feathers. The bill is dark. Plumage turns gray as the bird matures. lt gains white plumage at age five or six. Golden eagle: only occasionally seen at euabbin. lts bill is smaller than the bald eagle,sand wings are broader. Plumage is dark, reddish brown. The immature golden eagle is darker brown with white in the tail.

5:00 P.M. The main road is open year-round. Best time to visit: Year-round. Winter is prime season for eagle watching. Activities.' Hiking, birdwatching, picnicking, snowshoeing. Cross-country skiing and snowmobiles are prohibited. Pets: No. For more information: Metropolitan District Commission, Quabbin park Visitors Center, 485 Ware Road, Belchertown, MA 01070; 413-323-7221.

Central Massachusetts

HARVARD FOREST The importanceof bumpy groundin a forest, the role of sprouting,the effects of lightning, the devastationof a hurricane.All are explained-and examplesof eachare found-in Harvard Forestin Petersham.The 3,000 acres are living researchlaboratoriesin forest biology and forestry. Start your visit at Fisher Museum, which contains twenty-three dioramas portraying the history of central New England forests and exhibits on tree structures and diseases.A collection of black-and-whitephotographsshow the destructionwreakedby the Hurricane of 1938.One of the forest'stractscontainsa demonstration

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

pulldown to simulatehurricanedamage.Scientistsmonitor the site and collect data for the recovery of other areaswhere hurricanesstrike. The self-guided Natural History Trail and Black Gum Trail highlight interesting featuresof the forest: seedingbeds; shadywood plants suchas Indian cucumber root, New York fern, and wintergreen;the rebirth of woodland destroyedby fire; a swampcontainingblack gum trees. These trees, with egg-shapedleaves and round dark fruit, are rare in centralNew England.These are a treasure-someare more than 300 yearsold. A pleasanthike is the 4.5-mile trail to prospect Hill, where you can climb the fire tower for views of WachusettMountain, Mount Grace, and Mount Monadnock in southernNew Hampshire. Where: Harvard Forestis seventymiles west of Boston off State2. At the junction of State2 andState32, take State32 souththreemiles. Entranceto FisherMuseumis on left. From Worcesterit is twenty-fivemilesnorthwest on State 122 and then 3.5 miles north from Petersham Center to State32. Hours: FisherMuseumis open9:00 A.M. to 5:00 p.M. Monday through Friday year-roundand 10:00A.M. to 4:0OP.M. Saturday,May through October. Best time to visit: Year-round. Pets: Allowed on leash. Activities: Walking, educationalexhibits. For more information: Harvard Forest, Petersham, MA 01366; 508724-3302.

Central Massachusetts 43

DOANE'S FALLS Doane'sFalls in Royalstonis a nameseldombrought up when the state'smostdramaticwaterfallsare mentioned. What an oversight. It's a gem. The watersof LawrenceBrook tumble down a seriesof five cascades,dropping200 feet before they flatten out andjoin Tully River. Two cascadesare twenty feet wide and plummettwenty feet to clear, deep pools. The Trustees of Reservationsoversees Doane's Falls and 31.5 acresthat surroundit. A foot trail leadsdown one side of the brook and offers views of the falls from rock outcrops. Hemlock and pine standatop the gorge'ssteepledges.The trail is moderatelysteepin places.It endsat the foot of the last cascade,but a well-worn path continuesto Tully Lake. Where: From Bostontake State2 west to State2A and State32 in Athol; from Greenfieldtake State2 east. In Athol, crossthe Miller River bridge and turn right onto the Royalston-AtholRoad. Follow four miles. Entrance is on left immediatelyafter stonebridge over Lawrence Brook at DoaneHill Road. Hours: Sunriseto sunset. Pets: Allowed on leash. Activities: Hiking, picnicking. Other: Tully Lake RecreationArea in nearbyBaldwinville offers twenty-onecampsites,boat ramp, fishing, hunting in restrictedareas,and snowmobiling.To reach the area take Doane Hill Road west and turn left onto WinchendonRoad. Entranceis on left.

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

For more information: Doane's Falls, Trusteesof Reservations,Central RegionalOffice, Doyle Reservation,325 Lindell Avenue, Leominster,MA 01453.508-840-4464.Tullv Lake RecreationArea. 508-939-8962

OTTER RIVER STATE FOREST/ LAKE DENNISON RECREATION AREA I knew little about Otter River StateForestor Lake DennisonRecreationArea beforemy visit in mid-July.Dennison'ssize-9,000 acres-and lake (the forecastcalled for temperaturesin the 90s) enticed me for a weekend campingtrip. The two adjacentareasare in the small towns of Baldwinville and Winchendon.The 4,Z0fJ.-acre Birch Hill Wildlife ManagementArea encompasses both. I was lucky enoughto securea tent site near the lake shoreline.Dennison'stwo campgrounds contain150 sitessituatedin standsof tall pines. Hot showers,trailer camp sites, and a trailer dumping stationare available. Otter StateForest providesanother 100tent sites. Lake Dennison is the focal point of activity. The day-useareacontainsa boat ramp and picnic and beach facilities. Even on a hot, midsummerday the lake was uncrowded, evidence that the area is a little-known haven. The Wilder-McKenzie Nature Trail connectsDennison and the l,Z00-acre Otter Forest. It takes roughly an hour to complete a circuit around the blue-blazed

Central Massachusetts 45

trail. The footpath winds through deep woodlandsand reachesBeamon Pond. A side path goes to the Otter River StateForestcampground. Where: ThkeState2 westto exit 20. Go right onto Baldwinville Road.Follow to State202 north. Follow signs to entranceon left to Otter River StateForest. Lake Dennison entranceis two miles north on left. Hours: Day-use(10:00 A.M. to sunset)and camping areasare openMay to mid-October. Admission: $2 for day use; $6 and $7 for camping. Activities:Hiking, swimming, picnicking, canoeing, fishing, huntingin season,cross-countryskiing, snowshoeing,snowmobiling,interpretiveprograms,walking. Pets: Prohibited. For more information: Otter River StateForestand Lake DennisonRecreation Area, State 202, Winchendon,MA 01436; 508939-8962.

WACHUSETT MOUNTAIN STATE RESERVATION WachusettMountain standsimpressivelyat 2,ffi6 feet, the highestpoint in Massachusetts eastof the Berkshires. But the mountainis now a mereshadowof its original. It stood23,000 feet high millions of yearsago, but wind, water,and glacialerosionwore it down. Now it is a monadnock,an isolated mountaintowering over the relatively flat surroundingterrain. The open summit offers panoramicviews in every

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

direction. The most stunning are north to New Hampshire'sMount Monadnockand eastto the Bostonskyline. They were impressiveeven as I tried to hold my ground against a bracing wind on a late Novemberday. It was cold at the top. A thin layer of ice coatedsome rocks. Snow-makingguns were in action at WachusettMountain's downhill ski areaon the westernslope. I pulled up my collar and enjoyedthe views, a reward for my thirty-minute hike from the visitors center up Bicentennial Trail and Deer Hill Trail. It seemedappropriate that I descendedJack Frost Trail. acres The hiker can traversethe reservation's2,OOO over approximately twenty miles of trails, including nearly four miles of the Midstate Trail. This longdistancefootpathtravelsthe lengthof WorcesterCounty, eighty-five miles from Douglas State Forest on the Rhode Island border to Ashburnham near the New summit along Hampshireline. It passesover Wachusett's the way. An auto road offers another way to reach the summit from mid-April through October 31. In winter cross-countryskiers and snowmobilers take over the roadsand trails. On a return visit in February, I found out that the auto road provides an exhilarating descenton cross-countryskis. I toiled and plodded up to the summit, but I had to dig in my ski edgesand hang on for dear life on the way down. WachusettMountain's history is steepedin Indian lore. Tiail names- Old Indian and Sumuhanna- are reminders of the past. In fact, Wachusettmeans"by the Great Hill' in Algonquian. Hemlock, pine, maple, spruce, beech, and birch

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trees cover the reservation. An old-growth stand of northern red oak is found on the reservation'snorthern edge.Among wildflowers are trailing arbutus,mountain laurel, mayflower,and asters. Where: From Boston take State2 west to exit 25 for Take State140 south to MounWestminster-Princeton. Turnpike take exit 10 in tain Road. From Massachusetts Auburn to I-290 north to Worcesterand then to I-190 north to exit 5. TakeState140north nine miles to Mountain Road. Hours: Trails open daily sunrise to sunset. Visitors centeropendaily 9:00 A.M. to 4:00 P.M. Pets: Allowed. Best time to visit: Year-round. Activities: Hiking, biking, picnicking, mountain bike riding permitted on paved and gravel roads, crosscountry skiing, snowshoeing,snowmobiling, downhill skiing at adjacentWachusettMountain ski area. Other: WachusettMeadow Wildlife Sanctuaryis southeast of the reservation. The Dickens Trail connectsthe two. The sanctuarycontainselevenmiles of trails. For more information: WachusettMountain State Reservation,Mountain Road, Princeton,MA 01541;508-464-2987and 508464-2712. TOWER HILL BOTANIC GARDEN While the first of January marks the start of another calendaryear, mid-April is the unofficial beginning of anotheryear at Tower Hill BotanicGarden.

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That's when hundredsof flowers begin to bloom, filling the air with intoxicating fragrancesand dressing up the grounds in a multitude of colors. After a harsh New England winter, I found it a perfect place to welcome spring. Three miles of walking trails wind throughthe 132 acres that sit atop Tower Hill, which rises 641.5 feet above sea level and offers sweepingviews of Quabbin Reservoir and Mount Wachusett. The pathwaystake visitors from manicuredgardens to managednaturalareas,which includemeadowsand a pond, to the Davenport Collection of 119 varieties of heirloom apples.The apple treesare worth a visit themselves.Many applesare the size of grapefruit. The WorcesterCounty Horticultural Societyoperates the gardens, which feature plants and trees that thrive in centralNew England. The StoddardEducation and Visitors Center is a new addition. It's a place to visit first for an orientation and a map of the grounds. Back outside,the lawn gardenactsas a magnet.It containsover 300 varietiesof treesand shrubs,plus the secret garden with its dizzying array of plants. Harbor mist, sun drops, dainty yellow moonbeam,purple bowman'sroot, fragrantjasmine, lilies, magnolias,and more are on display.Gardenersfuss over them. The field, wildlife, and meadow gardensare left mostly in their natural state. The wildlife garden once was a dumping ground on Tower Hill farm. Now it's a nesting, feeding, and watering site for birds, bats, and

Central Massachusetts

One of the apples in the Heirloom Collection

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

butterflies.Benchesand a viewing stationallow visitors to sit and observewildlife. A steadystreamof birds visit the feeders. It's an ideal placeto rest beforethe climb back up Tower Hill and the parking lot. Where: From Bostontake Massachusetts Turnpikewest to I-495 north. Thke exit 25 to I-290 west. Thke exit 24 north. Follow ChurchStreetnorthto FrenchKing Drive. Hours: April to October,daily, 10:@A.M. to 5:00 p.M. November to March, weekdays,10:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M. ClosesThanksgiving,Christmas,and New Year's. Admission: $: for adults; $t for children ages six to twelve. Best time to visit: Spring to early fall. Activities: Walk through 132 acres,active scheduleof lecturesand gardenworkshops,picnicking. Pets: No. For more information: TowerHill BotanicGarden,ll FrenchDrive, Boylston.MA 01505-1008: 508-869-6111.

PURGATORY CHASM STAIB RESERVATION Purgatory Chasm is a deep cleft, approximatelysixty feet wide and a half-mile long. Sheerwalls rise seventy feet on both sidesof the boulder-strewnchasmfloor. Tall, statelyhemlocksstandatop the cliffs, making the gorge seem even deeper. The coolnessand shade bring relief on even the warmestday.

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A blue-blazedtrail startsat the southernend of the parking lot and leadsthroughthe gorge to the cavesand hollows with names like Devil's Pulpit and Devil's Coffins. I scrambledthrough rocks, nooks, and crannies- a mazeof geologicalwonders. place The chasmis a delightful and adventuresome for children, who hoot and holler and play peek-a-boo amongthe rocks. All the work nature did to createthe fault and seriesof fissuresis of no concernto them. They just know the chasmis a lot of fun. Justpastthe Devil's Coffin, which is the largestof the caves, the trail swings left and climbs out of the gorge. It runs along the top of the cliffs, whereyou can look down into the chasmbelow. The trail makesone final dip and turns to the parking lot. Another choicefor a walk is a yellow-blazedfootpath that startsjust pastthe picnic pavilion and makesa circuit throughwoodlandsin the2,660-acrereservation. It eventually swings past the far end of the gorge and ascendsthe cliffs on the westernside of the chasm. Turnpike take exit 10. Where: From Massachusetts Follow signs for State20. Follow east to State146 in Millbury. Follow State146south7.5 miles to Purgatory Road.Follow one-halfmile. Parkinglot is on left. Hours: Daily 8:00 A.M. to 8:30 p.M. Chasmis closed in winter. It opensin mid-April. Rest of park is open year-round. Best time to visit: May through October. Activities: Hiking, picnicking, hunting in season,crosscountry skiing.

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

Pets: Allowed on leash. For more information: Purgatory Chasm State Reservation, Purgatory Road, Sutton,MA 01590;508-234-3733.

DOUGLAS STATE FOREST/ CEDAR SWAMP TRAIL Deep in the heartof the DouglasStateForestlies a wellkept secret-Cedar Swamp.There'slittle indicationthat the 4,555-acre forest is home to the swamp until one reachesthe boardwalk that snakesthrough the wetland. To reach the half-mile Cedar Swamp Trail, walk past Wallum Lake, the picnic sites, bathhouses,and interpretive center. The red-blazedtrail beginson the left a few feet past the center. Numbered markers correspond to thosein a brochure available at the park headquarters. The first part of the trail lies in an area of mixed hardwood forest. The lessonlearnedhere is how much adversitytreesmust endure,sometimesunsuccessfully. First is the tragic tale of the American chestnut. Once it dominatedNew England'sdeciduousforests,but that changedwhen the chestnutblight appearedin 1904 and eventually attacked nearly every stand of magnificent trees. The trail passeschestnutsaplings,whosefate is sealed. What greetsthe visitor next are deadtrees, victims of the gypsy moth. It is New England'smost destructive pest, eating and stripping off leaves. Repeatedattacks weakentrees and they die.

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But enoughof deathand destruction.CedarSwamp awaits. Going from the mixed hardwoodforest into the swamp is like steppingfrom one's warm, sunny backyard into a cool, dampcellar. The densestandsof Atlantic white cedarand hemlock trees allow little sunlight to reach the forest floor, where shade-and moisture-lovingvegetation,such as sphagnummoss,thrives.The green,spongymossholds many times its weight in water. Layers of dead sphagnum and sedgeaccumulateand form an organic deposit that is the sourceof peatmosswidely usedin gardening. Skunk cabbageand cinnamonfern are bountiful as well. The cabbagein fact does smell skunky and the ferns are cinnamon-coloredin the fall. Cedar Swamp originated 10,000 to 15,000 years ago during the last Ice Age. After the glacier retreated, depressionswere left behindand somebecameponds or swamps.When the climatewarmed, southernplants like American white cedarbeganto grow. Pocketsof white cedar still survive in theseswampyareas. Turnpike to exit 10. Follow Where: TakeMassachusetts I-395 south, then State 16 east for five miles. Follow slgns. Hours: Sunriseto sunset.Day-useareasopen at A.M.

Best time to visit: Year-round. Pets: Allowed on leash. Activities: Hiking, boating, canoeing, fishing, horseback riding, huntingin season,swimming,picnicking, cross-countryskiing, snowmobiling,snowshoeing.

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Natural Wonders of Massachusetts

For more information: DouglasStateForest,Wallum Lake Road, RR 01, Box 161D30,Douglas,MA 01516;508-47G-7872

BLACKSTONERIVER AND CANAL HBRITAGE STATEPARK Sweetserenity.That wasmy stateof mind asI stoodatop King Philip's Rock in Northbridge and watchedBlackstoneRiver ramble through the valley below. The large standsof grass on the river's left were still in shadows castfrom treeson the easternbank. But the mid-morning sun shimmeredon the water'ssurface. It took only thirty minutes to walk the footpath from the BlackstoneRiver Heritage state park office parking lot to the 408-foot-high King philip,s Rock,

A painted turtle taking the sun

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which is named for the WampanoagIndian chief. The promontoryaffordsone of the finest views of the BlackstoneRiver, a centerpieceof the statepark that is maintained by the MassachusettsDepartment of EnvironmentalManagement. Walking or canoeingare two of the best ways to enjoy BlackstoneRiver and Canal. The Blackstonebegins at the confluenceof the Middle River and Mill Brook in downtownWorcesterand endsforty-four miles southin Pawtucket,RhodeIsland, where it becomesthe tidal SeekonkRiver. The entire stretch forms the BlackstoneRiver Valley National HeritageCorridor. It highlights America's Age of Industry and BlackstoneRiver's role in the revolution. Old factorybuildingsand machinerelics from the textile industry,begun in the 1790s,are steam-powered found in mill towns throughoutthe corridor. Today, BlackstoneRiver and Canal are valued for their recreationaluses.Along the meanderingriver are accesspoints for canoeistsand severaltrails, including the canaltowpath. A section of the towpath begins just west of the state park office and across a stone bridge over the Blackstone. Headdown GoatHill Trails to the towpathandRice City Pond. The small pond, named for the wild rice growing in it, is a favorite resting spot for migrating blackbirdsin spring and fall. Return to the stone bridge and follow the towpath south for two miles past Riverbend Farm to Stanley Wool Mill in downtown Uxbridge. The path is popular with strollers,dog walkers,bicyclists,andjoggers.

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Ducks and Canadageeseare common, and you might seepaintedturtlessunningthemselves. Where: Hartford Avenue, Uxbridge. Take MassachusettsTurnpiketo I-495 southto exit 2Oin Milford. Thke State16 to Oak Streetin Uxbridge and follow signs. Best time to visit: Spring, summer,and fall. Pets: Allowed. Activities: Hiking, canoeing,picnicking, guided tours by NationalPark rangers. Other: Just over the border from Massachusettsis BlackstoneGorge,just west of Slatersville.It provides one of the mostscenicwalksin the BlackstoneRiver corridor. The gorgeis one of the few remainingwhitewater stretcheson the river. For more information: BlackstoneRiver Valley National Heritage Corridor Commission,l5 Mendon Street, Uxbridge, MA 01559; 508-278-9400.The commissionsuppliesa free map and a BlackstoneRiver CanoeGuide. THE BUTTERFLY PLACE Swallowtails,fritillaries, and milkweedsflitted among the plants before they alighted on their favoritesto sip nectarand pollinatethe vegetationprocess. I soon was twisting and turning myself, trying to watch them all. I stopped mid-step as a red-spotted purple admiral landedon the sidewalk ahead.I ducked as a pair of cabbagewhites headed straight for me.

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I strained my neck to follow the flight of a stately monarch. The butterfliesinsideThe Butterfly Placeat Papillon Park were surprisinglyactive, consideringthat outsidethe sky was grayand a light rain fell. Heatand light energizebutterfliesso they are most active on bright, sunnydays. Climate conditions inside The Butterfly Place A specialheatcloselyresemblethoseof a greenhouse. ing systemandartificiallight do nature'swork. The temperatureis always at least seventydegreesFahrenheit. The air is quitehumid.Moisturefogsthe glasswalls and ceiling. George Leslie and his wife Jane designedand glassatrium. It is planted createdthe 3,IOO-square-foot primarily with colorful flowering plants and shrubsto providenecessary nectarfor the butterflies. It containsas many as 500 butterfliesrepresenting forty speciesfoundmostly in North America.The types of butterflieson displaychangeduring the sevenmonths that The Butterfly Placeis open. Every visitor can get a lessonin a butterfly'sfour from egg to caterpillarto life stages,or metamorphosis, pupa to adult pupa. Leslie delicatelypicked up a newly emergedbutterfly,a zebraswallowtail,and hung it on a leaf before its first flight. While someof the butterflies keep their distance, othersare attractedto visitors. I bet the lady in front of me didn't know that a zebralongwing was restingon her left shoulder.

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Where: The Butterfly Place is in Westford, approximately forty miles northwestof Boston.From I-495 take exrt3Z. Go north on BostonRoadto WestfordCenter.At the Common, go right onto Lincoln Street to Main Street. Thke Depot Street off Main Street. Cross State 40. Depot StreetbecomesTyngsboroRoad. The park is on the left in two miles. Hours: Opendaily, 10:00A.M. to mid-April through October. Admission: $6 for adults; $5 for seniorssixty-five and over and children under twelve: free for children under three. Best time to visit: Sunnydays. Activities.' Butterfly observation,photography. Other: A picnic area accessibleto the handicappedis provided. There is a gift shop. For more information: The Butterfly Place at Papillon Park, I2O Tyngsboro Road, Westford, MA 01886; 508-392-0955

WALDEN POND STATE RESERVATION WaldenPond StateReservationin Concord presentsthe visitor with two very different experiences.One centers around Walden Pond and the recreational activities it offers. The secondis more sereneand involves the surrounding woodlands and the site of the one-room cabin where American writer and naturalist Henry David Thoreaulived for two yearsfrom 1845to 1847. Thoreau immortalized the pond and the forest in the book Walden,

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which was basedon the journal he kept during his stay. But on a hot August afternoonthe water beckoned. Walden Pond is popular with boaters(only canoesand are allowed). Sometry their luck for nonmotorizedboats rainbow trout, smallmouthbass,or perch. Bathersflock to the smallbeaches.RedCrossBeach on the north shore is just a narrow strip of sand. The larger Main Beach,bathhouse,and concessionstandare on the southshore.So is the boat launchat Deep Cove. Even with the numberof visitors limited to 1,000at a time, the beachesare often cramped.In searchof a little elbow room, I followed Pond Path past Red Cross Beachand Thoreau'sCove to the far end of the pond, to Ice Fort Cove and Long Cove. Both provided escape from the crowds. I decidedto sit and rest awhile. With the din of the crowd acrossthe pond muffled, I becameawareof other sounds.Waterlappingthe shoreline,birds singing,squirrels and chipmunkschatteringin the treesbehindme. Much of Walden'sforest had beencut down before the stateacquiredthe property in 1922. The woods haYe sincegrown back with hickory, oak, and pines. They attract chickadees,blackbirds,kingfishers, and red-tailed hawks. The pond was pristine. A pamphletI had obtained explainedthat this is due to the at the park headquarters Iack of shorelinedevelopmentand tributary streamsthat carry decayedleaves,dirt, and other debris. Walden's water level rises and falls more slowly than most other pondsbecauseit intersectsthe water table, making it less affectedby wet and dry spells.

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Monarch butterflies migrate from Mexico to Massachusetts

Like many ponds in Massachusetts,Walden'sbeginning dates back 10,000 to 12,000 years to the retreat of the glacier that covered New England. Walden is a kettlehole, a steephollow left behind when an ice block melted.

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To completemy visit, a stopat Thoreau'scabin site was in order. WoodsPath leadsto the spot where Roland Wells Robbins,an amateurhistorian,discoveredand excavatedthe foundationof the cabin'schimney in 1945. The NationalPark ServicedesignatedWaldenPond as a RegisteredNationalHistoric Landmarkin 1965. Thoreaulived at WaldenPondfrom July 4, 1845,to September1847. His time was spentkeeping a journal, studying nature, gardening, surveying the pond, and drafting his book .,{ Weekon the Concord and Merrimack Rivers. I found myself trying to imagine what it was like 250 yearsagoduring Thoreau'ssojourn.The reservation is worth a visit for no other reasonthan the one Thoreau gave:". . . my friends ask me what I will do when I get there. Will it not be employmentenough to watch the progressof the season?" Where: From Boston take State 2 west to State 126 (WaldenStreet).Follow south for four miles. Entrance Turnpike to parking lot is on left. From Massachusetts take I-495 north to State2. Follow west to State126 and go four miles to entrance. Hours: Daily, 5:00 A.M. to sunset.The park is closed when it reaches1,000 capacity.A time for reopeningis postedat entry points. Parking fee. Besttime to visit: Year-round. Pets: No. Activities: Swimming, walking, picnicking, canoeing, fishing, cross-country skiing. Interpreters offer guided and educationaltours, and staff the replica of Thoreau'scabin.

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CLACIATTANDSCAPE A kettle pond such as Walden Pond is among the geological features formed when the last glacier slowly swept across New England15,000 years ago and then gradually retreated 10,000 to 12,000 years ago as the climate warmed. The face of the bedrock hills was changed.lce erosion causedsmooth surfaceson the north side and jagged ones on the south side where bedrock was torn off. Large boulders broke off along joint lines where freezing and thawing occurred. These rocks were carried in glacial water and scattered, sometimes ending up miles from where they were plucked up. These boulders are known as glacial erratics. Many are found on Cape Ann in northeast Massachusetts. Narrow ridgesof sand, gravel, and bouldersare eskers. They resulted from glacial streams running through ice tunnels. Roundedhills known as drumlinsare common in Massachusetts.They are deposits of glacial till, a mixture of debris consistingof clay, sand, and broken rocks. World's End Reservationin Hingham contains excellent examples. Cape Cod is dotted with kettle ponds. The depressions were formed when a mass of ice separated from the glacier and was covered with debris.When the ice melted, the depressionwas formed. Where the water table is near the surface the depressionsfilled with water and became ponds. lake Hitchcock normally is mentioned when glaciers are discussed.Debris from the retreating glacier piled up in a central Connecticut valley, forming a dam and blocking the path of glacial rivers. The waters backed up and formed lake Hitchcock, which extended 180 miles from Middletown Connecticut, through Massachusettsto northern Vermont.

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When the dam broke, the Connecticut River cut a path through what was the lake floor.

For more information: Walden Pond State Reservation,State 126, Concord, MA 01742;508-369-3254.

GREAT MEADOWS NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE With temperaturestopping ninety degrees Fahrenheit and humid air hangingheavy,the great blue heron was contentto loaf in the shallowwateralong the edgeof the large marshpool. No needto exert itself. Threecanoeistsapparentlyfelt the sameway. After hauling their canoesout by the sleepy Concord River, they were enjoying a picnic lunch on the grassadjacent the Dike Trail, seemingly unawareof the magnificent bird strolling in the water on the other side of the knoll. The handful of birdwatcherswere a bit more energetic. They walked aloneor in pairs along the l.7-mile circuit trail, raising their binocularsfrom time to time to scourthe freshwaterwetlands.I did the sameand spotted anothergreatblue heron. This onewas diligently searching for food. Two units form the 3,000-acre Great Meadows Wildlife Refuge: the Dike Trail Area in Concord and the Weir Hill Area in neighboringSudbury. Weir Hill

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containsthe refugeoffice, visitors center,and educational facilities. Concord River flanks the Dike Trail Area, while Sudbury River runs past Weir Hill Area. The refugeis twenty miles westof Bostonandjust a few miles from WaldenPond StateReservation. Native Americansoncelived off the rivers and surrounding land. According to National Wildlife Refuge officials, "Great River Meadows"was the name settlers gave the grasslandsleft behind each summer by the rivers'retreat. Over 200 speciesof birds havebeenrecordedat the refuge. Waterfowl, wading birds, and other migratory birds rest and feed in the refuge. Wood ducks, black ducks, and mallardsnest in the freshwaterwetlands. So does Blanding'sturtle. Seeingone is a special treat becausethe turtle is rare in Massachusetts. Chancesare betterthat you might seea white-tailed deer. Muskrats, foxes, raccoons,cottontailrabbits, and weaselsare corrrmon. Where: To Concord Unit: from Bostontake State2 east to Concord. Turn right onto Main Street and go one block. ThkeState62 east1.3 miles. Turn left on Monsen Road and follow signsto refuge. To SudburyUnit: from BostontakeState2Owestto Wayland. At light, turn right on Srare126127and then bear left on State27 north. Turn right onto Water Row Road and then onto Lincoln Road. Turn left onto Weir Hill Road. Hours: Grounds open daily sunriseto sunset.Visitors

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centerat SudburyUnit, 8:00A.M. to 4:00 P.M.,Monday to Friday, yeer-round;11:00A.M. to 5:00 P.M., Saturday and Sunday,May throughOctober. Pets: Allowed on leash. Best time to visit: Spring and fall bird migrations. Activities: Hiking, birdwatching, photography, crosscountry skiing. Canoeingand fishing in Concord and SudburyRivers. For more information: Great Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, Weir Hill Road, Sudbury,MA 01776;508-443-4661.

Eastern Massachusetts

GARDEN IN TIIE WOODS Delightful Virginia bluebells,bloodroots,andtrout lilies usher in the spring at Gardenin the Woodsin Framingham. They are among the first to bloom Soon hundredsof others follow-shooting stars, great trilliums, yellow lady's slipper, wood phlox. They form a colorful mosaic along three miles of trails that wind through cultivatedgardensand other botanicareas left in their natural state. Later in the year, blue gentian, red cardinal, and violet asters end the garden's public season with a flourish. Over 1,500types of plants, including 200 rare and

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endangeredspecies,grow in the seriesof gardensthat cover forty-five acres in the middle of suburbia. The majority of flora are North American. Pink lady's slippers dot the hillside in the woodlands in June. I followed a footpaththat runs alongside Hop Brook and ramblespast skunk cabbage,ferns and spicebush,and winterberry before it ascendsthrough a forest of maples, beeches,oak, white pines, and hemlocks. The most delightful area centers around a rock gardenand lily pond. Oconeebells, rare and endangered in North America, are found here. So is the Labrador violet, a rarity in New England. Northeastplantsdominate,but the gardensalso display plantsfrom othertemperateregionsin North America, Europe,and Asia. Eachplant is labeled,and colorcodedsignsindicatewhat onesare rare or endangered. New EnglandWild Flower Societyowns and operates the gardens, which open to the public from midApril through October. Landscapedesigner Will C. Curtis and partner Howard Stiles designed and developed the garden for thirty-four years from 1931 to 1964, when the New England Wild Flower Society becamethe overseer. Visits are rewarding anytime. The diversity of plantsguaranteesthat blossomsare alwaysplentiful. Where: From north, south, and east take State 128 to State20 west. Go eight miles to RaondRoadand follow HemenwayRoad. From west take Massachusetts Turnpike to exit 12 and State9 east. Follow to Edgell Road

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

Great trilliums or wakerobinsbloom as robinsarrive

exit. At end of exit take ramp, turn left onto Edgell Road, and follow to Water Street, then first left on HemenwayRoad.

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Hours: Trails are open April 15 to October 31, TuesdaysthroughSundays,9:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M- Last admission to trails is one hour before closing. Closed Mondaysexceptfor Memorial DaY. Admission: $6 for adults; $5 for seniorssixty and $3 for children five to fifteen. Best time to visit: April and May are peak time for spring flowers to bloom, but there are continuousdisplays throughfall. Pefs.' No. Activities: Walking, botany study, gardentours, educational programs. Other: New England Wild Flower Society operatesa gift shopand sellsplants. For more information: New EnglandWild Flower Society,Gardenin the Woods, 180HemenwayRoad, FraminghamMA 01071; 508-877-6574 for recorded information and events; 508-877-7630for office. PARKER RIVER NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE/PLUM ISLAND It didn't take long for Parker River National Wildlife Refuge to live up to its reputationas a premier birdwatchingarea. I wasbike riding on the narrow pavedroad through the refuge, lessthan a quarter-milefrom the main gate, when I spotteda snowy egret standingamid the marsh grasseson the edgeof Plum IslandRiver. It was just a sneakpreview of what was ahead.

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The 4,660-acre refuge covers two-thirds of Plum Island far up the northern coast of Massachusettsin Newburyport.The refugeservesasa restingand feeding areafor migratory waterfowl, warblers,and shorebirds. During peak migrations in spring and fall, hundredsof ducks and Canadageesecan blanketthe sky. Sandy Point Reservationat the island's southern point is a popular beachin the summer.The small parking lot often fills up by 8:00 e.u. and gatesare closed. There are no lifeguards along the seven miles of unspoiledbeachand the Atlantic Ocean'spoundingsurf. I had brought my bicycle and rode from one end of the refuge to the other and back. A lot of people do the same. Stop at the refuge'smain gate to pay a small admission fee and obtain a trail map. Sevenparking lots and boardwalks to the beachfront nature trails are located along the 6.5-mile road throughthe refuge.An observation tower at the far end of the parking area, Lot7, provides an overview, taking in the oceanto the eastand southand Broad Sound, NelsonIsland, and hundredsof acresof salt marsh to the west and north. Backtrackitrgabout 2.5 miles, one reachesHellcat Swamp Nature Tiail. A wide path leads to a manmade dike that separatestwo freshwater impoundments.You can climb an observationtower for a fine view. A great blue heron down below got a lot of attention.The lean, gray bird waded through water for quite some time before it took to flight, a magnificentsight. Double back to the trailhead and follow Hellcat Swamp Nature Trail east. A boardwalk winds its way

Eastern Massachusetts 7l

amid an assortmentof shrubsand trees: black cherry, bayberry,birch, red maple, oak, pitch pine, fox grape. During my mid-septembervisit, many trees and shrubs displayedtheir lush fruit. Midway on the trail the boardwalkswings into the open and there is a fine view of the beachdunes.Birdwatchersgather here. The boardwalk then swings left and returnsto the startingPoint. The best times to observebirds are early morning and evening. The sun was starting to set when I made PineTrails my final stop. Mosquitoeswere intensealong the trail, but I stayedwith it. My effort was rewarded when I saw the fringes of Broad Sound,a major feeding area for snowy egrets. I countedtwenty of the lovely white birds. It was a fitting end to a wonderful visit. Where: TakeI-95 north to State113east. State113becomesState1A in Newbury. Follow signsto Plum Island and ParkerRiver Wildlife Refuge. Admission: $S. Hours: Sunriseto sunset.Visitor contactstationis open daily 9:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M.May throughSeptember. Besttime to visit: Year-round.Peakbird migrationsoccur in spring and fall. Activities: Hiking, bicycling, birdwatching, swimming, huntingin restrictedareas,surf fishing. Pets: Allowed on leashOctoberthrough April, but prohibited May through SePtember. Other: Portionsof the beachare closedApril I through August 3 to protect nesting birds (piping plovers and leastterns).

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For more information: Parker River National wildlife Refuge, Northern Boulevard-PlumIsland, Newburyport,MA 01950;50g_ 46s-5753.

IPSWICH RIVER WILDLIFE SANCTUARY It was only fitting to arrive at Ipswich River wildlife Sanctuaryin Topsfieldby canoe. There are twenty-two canoeaccesspoints along the thirty-one-mile stretch of the Ipswich River from wilmington eastto the Atlantic ocean. one is on the eightmile stretchof the river that snakesalong the southern end of the sanctuary. My partner and I glided our canoethrough open marshesand woodedswamps.with so many cattailsand sedgesalongthe river's edge,it wasn'ta surpriseto seea muskrat swimming off the canoe'sport side. Any canoeistwho stopsat the sanctuaryand wants to walk its trails should head up to the office and pay a small admissionfee first. The Massachusetts Audubon society owns the 2,800-acre sanctuary,the largest in the statewidesystem. Ten miles of trails loop through meadows,islands,and a manmaderockery. sanctuary headquarterssits atop BradstreetHill, which is actually a drumlin or glacial drift. The observationtower overlookingBunker Meadow is a prime spot for observing waterfowl that rest and feed in the meadow.There was little bird activity on the warm

1

rh t Fl

A muskrat along the shore

I

I

,

,

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afternoonin June. Early morning or eveningare better times to visit the tower. The rockeryis a delightfulplaceto visit any time of the day. It is a particularfavoriteof children,who zigzag through the mazeof boulderson the edgeof Rockery Pond.The half-mileRockeryTrail beginsbehindsanctuary headquarters and headsdownhill to the pond.colorful and fragrant mountainlaurel and azaleawere in full bloom. A previousownerof the property,Thomasprocter, imported many of the flora that line Rockery pond and hired a landscapearchitectto designthe rockery.The top of the grotto looks acrossthe picturesquepond. Another areaworth a visit is Averill's Island. A l-2-mile trail loops around the island. It beginsjust past Waterfowl Pond. White pine, beech,and hemlock dominatethe woodlands. where: Thke I-95 north to State I north. Thke state 97 south at traffic light. Thke secondleft off perkins Row. Sanctuaryis one mile on right. Hours: Grounds open dawn to dusk. Closed Mondays exceptmajor holidays. Admission: $: for adults; $Z for senior citizens and children; free for MassachusettsAudubon Society members. Best time to visit: Year-round. Activities: Hiking, birdwatching, canoeing,educational programs. Pets: No. other: Canoe and cabin rental (InnermostHouse) and

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camping on Perkins lsland are availableto MassachusettsAudubonSocietYMembers' For more information: 87 PerkinsRow, IpswichRiverwildlife Sanctuary, Topsfield,MA 01983;508-887-9264'

MIDDLESEX FBLLS RESERVATION MiddlesexFells Reservationis a2,060-acrepreserveof woodland,sevenmiles north of downtownBoston.The MetropolitanDistrict Commissionmanagesthe reservation and the nearbywalter D. StoneMemorial zoo. Sightsandsoundsofamajormetropolismingle with thoseof the forest. Cars and trucks speedup and down l-g3, a north-south throughway that splits the reservationinto two sections.During my visit, one plane after anotherflew over as they approachedLogan International Airport. One minute an airliner overheadwas heard.The nextminutethe chirping of cricketsand frogs at Bellevuetook its Place. ..Fells"is the saxon word for rocky, hilly terrain. The reservationis aPtlYnamed' Awalkup243-footPineHillanditsstoneobservationtower (a target of vandals)rewards the hiker with a sweepingview of the Bostonskyline and Boston Basin. Almost thirty miles of trails are found in Middlesex Fells Reservation.Some are footpaths; others are old carriage roads. The bridle paths are ideal for crosscountiy skiing in winter. One footpath, the 4.3-mile

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

cross Fells Trail, connectsthe reservation'seasternand westernsections. It took most of the afternoon to walk the Skyline Trail, which makesa 6.8-mile loop aroundthe western sectionbeginningat Bellevuepond. It's a roller-coaster walk up and down a seriesof small, rocky hills. oak, red maple, and hickory dominatethe woodlands. On a dry, hot summerday the ReservoirTrail beck_ onedas a sidetrip. It runsjust outsidea buffer zonefor a string of reservoirsowned by the town of winchester. I knew the trail was a good choice when a refreshing breezeblew acrossthe water. some visitors drive to an areaknownas sheepfold. It's an open, grassyknoll with ampleroom for kite flying and picnicking. The reservation'seasternsectionis more rugged. The four-mile Rock circuit Trail and connector trails traverseseveralshort but steepascentsto rocky knobs. The Black Rock Sectionis particularly rugged. where: From Boston take I-93 north to exit 7 for state 28 and Fellsway west. Go left over the expresswayand then right for south Border Road. parking areais next to BellevuePond. From Stater28 north of Bostontakeexit 37A to I-93 south.Follow 4.8 miles to exit 7 andstate 28 and Fellsway.Follow as above. Hours: Daily sunriseto sunset. Best time to visit: Year-round. Activities: Hiking, picnicking, horsebackriding, fishing, bicycling in designatedareas,cross-countryskiing.

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Friends of Middlesex Reservationsponsor hikes and naturalhistory programs. Pets: Allowed on leash. For more information: MiddlesexFells Reservation,c/o CANEPI, WoodFriends land Road,Stoneham,MA 02180;617-662-5142. Henry 28 CANEPI, clo of Middlesex Reservations, Street,Arlington, MA 02174.Detailed maps are available from both for a nominal fee.

WALTER J. STONE MEMORIAL

ZOO

StoneMemorialZoo is up the road from Middlesex Fells Reservation. The Metropolitan District Commission managesthe zoo, whoseexhibits are undergoingmajor upgrading. The zoo's rebirth is exemplified by the newborn animals,a llama and a mouflon. The renovatedwetlandsexhibit and artificial pond is hometo geese,ducks,ferns, cattails, and water lilies. Other exhibit areasare northern forest, tropical forest, grasslands,polar bear tundra, and giraffe house. The main featureof the enclosedtropical forest is an aviary with sixty birds representingfifteen specieS. Exotic birds such as Victoria crown bluebirds, Lady Rossturaco, and imperial fruit pigeon entertainvisitors. Outside,the residentpolar bear apparentlydecided the Augustafternoonwastoo hot for anythingbut snoozing in the shade.

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

The heatdidn't fazeother animals.GracefulAmerican flamingosperchedon one leg, then the other. Colobus monkeys chatteredand jumped from one place to another. And the capybarascurriedaround.What is a capybara I wantedto know. It's only the largestrodentin the world. A native of Brazil, the capybaracan grow four feet long and twenty incheshigh and weigh 150pounds. After reading that bit of information, I quickly headedfor the giraffe house. Where: Pond Street,Stoneham.Follow signsoff I-93. Hours: Daily, 10:00A.M. to 4:00 p.M. Closedweekendsin the winter. Admission: $2 for agestwelve and up; $l for children four to eleven years, seniors, students, and military personnel. Pets: No. Activities: Animal observation, special exhibits, and events. Other: Concessionstand. For more information: 617-442-4896.

NEW ENGLAND AQUARIUM It's feeding time for the marine life in the Giant ocean Tank. Two divers clad in wet suits check their air tanks one more time, adjusttheir goggles, grab their bagsof

EasternMassachusetts 79

food, and slip into the watersof the 180,000-gallontank. More than 800 specimensof aquaticlife reside in the tank, which is the centerpieceof the New England Aquarium in Boston. Sharks, sea turtles, moray eels, and tropical fish are amongthe dwellers. The tank, filled with filtered water from Boston Harbor, spiralsnearly to the ceiling. A coral reef in the centerrises four storieshigh. The reef looks real, but it is madeof fiberglasscoralsand sponges.The marinelife like it anyway. The divers feed and check the tank's occupantsas they slowly make their way downward. The routine is repeatedseveraltimes a day-the aquarium'spopulation consumesabout 125,000poundsof fish a year. As the divers did their work, visitors gathered around the tank, looking through glass windows and listening to a staff member on the other side provide commentary about marine life. One learns that the moray eel looks dangerousbut it rarely attacksunless provoked;that an activeseaturtle must cometo the surface to breatheevery five to fifteen minutes but can remain under water for three hours when it sleeps. A visit to the aquarium is a learning experience. on board Discoveryare entertainSealion presentations ing, but they also increasepublic awarenessof the environmentalhazardsthe large mammalsface. Plasticis a prime culprit. It can entangleand choke them. The harbor sealsthat sun themselvesseemcarefree. But nearly all survivedharrowing experiencesas pups. Many were found injuredor abandonedon New England

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

1r 'rl if""l -rf

a il fi t

f.*i,l;'

Faceto face with a crustaceanat the New EnglandAquarium

beaches. The aquarium helps rescue and rehabilitate them. Many are later releasedto the sea.Somefind new homesin zoosand otheraquariums. The aquariumcontainsten galleries.In the Edgeof the Sea Gallery visitors are encouragedto pick up and

Eastern Massachusetts 8l

touch horseshoecrabs, sea urchins, and other animals found in a typicalNew Englandtide pool. Some of the aquarium's residents raise quite a ruckus. The penguins,of the jackass and rockhopper variety, are quiteboisterous.Jackasspenguinshavebeen at the aquariumsince it openedin 1969. The first ones were brought from islands off South America. They havegivenbirth to twenty-twochicksover the years. Where: Central Wharf. From SoutheastExpressway (State3) traveling north, take exit at Atlantic Avenue; Tuntraveling southtake exit at Dock Square/Callahan and follow fish logo signsto nel, passunderexpressway aquarium. By subwaytake the Blue Line to Aquarium Stop. Hours: Labor Day-June30, Monday through Wednesday, 9:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M.; Thursday,9:00 A.M. to 8:00 p.M; Friday, 9:00 A.M. to 5:00 p.tvt.;Saturday, Sunday,holidays,9:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.July l-August Friday,9:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.; 31, Monday,Tuesday, Thursday,9:00 A.M. to 8:00 P.M.; SaturWednesday, day, Sunday,holidays,9:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M-Admission fee. Best time to visit: Year-round. Activities: Marine wildlife exhibits, sea lion presentations, harbor tours (March to December)offer hands-on samplingand water testingin BostonHarbor. For more information: New EnglandAquarium, Central Wharf, Boston, MA 02110-3399;617-973-5200.Harbor tour reservations: 617-973-5207.

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

BOSTON HARBOR ISLANDS STATE PARK Strolling throughthe woodlandson PeddocksIsland,one seems far removed from the bustle of metropolitan Boston.But, in fact, the islandis just a quarter-mileoffshore from Hull and NantasketPeninsula. It seemedeven more unimaginableat night, when looking up at the stars while sitting beside my wellweatheredtent. Every so often, an incoming flight to Logan International Airport across the way disturbed tranquility. Peddocksand neighboringislandscompriseBoston Harbor IslandsStatePark. Someislands,like Peddocks, Georges,and Lovells, comeunder thejurisdiction of the MetropolitanDistrict Commission.Others,like Gallops, Bumpkin, and Grape, are the responsibilityof the MassachusettsDepartmentof Environmental Management. Ttventy-sevenislandsdot Boston'sinner and outer harbors. Some are little more than piles of rocks while otherscontaintrails, campsites,and remainsof old forts, a throwback to a time when the islandswere active in the harbor'sdefense. Ferry service to GeorgesIsland is available from Long Wharf near the New England Aquarium, Hingham Ship Yard, and Lynn Heritage Park. A free water taxi can be taken from Georges to the other islands on a seasonalbasis, weatherpermitting. Camping is allowed at Lovells, Peddocks,Bumpkin, Calf, Grape, and GreatBrewster. Georges Island is in the far reachesof the Outer Harbor, a forty-five-minute boat ride from Long Wharf.

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The view west from the island is of the spectacular Boston skyline. The view east is of the open Atlantic Ocean. Fort Warren, a National Historic Landmark, is located at the center of the twenty-eight-acreisland. The fort was first usedas a prison for capturedConfederate soldiersduring the Civil War. Peeringinto dark, dirtfloored rooms in the fort's remains,one shivers at the thoughtof living here. PeddocksIsland, in Inner Harbor, is rich in military history as well. Fort Andrews was active from 1904 through World War II. The fort's old brick buildings and gun batteriesremain. The 134-acreisland is one of the largestin the harbor. For a pleasantwalk, follow a trail west of the boat dock. It eventuallygoes along a salt marsh and reachesa wildlife sanctuaryon the island's west end. PeddocksIsland Trust and the Appalachian Mountain Club sponsoractivitieson the island. Lovells Island is just minutes away from Georges Island via water taxi. It too containsremnantsof a military installation.Fort Standishwasbuilt in 1900and was active throughWorld War II. The sixty-two-acreisland, quickly becamemy favorite. Its positionnearthe edgeof the Outer Harbor and the Atlantic Oceanmakes it relatively remote and wild, particularly along the hilly northernend. Marshesand woodlandsattracta variety of birds. Campingis available near the Fort Standishremnants and south boat ramp. It's the only island with a designatedswimming beach. Migratory shorebirdsand other waterfowl are attracted to the island s marshes,

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

woodlands,andoceanedges.canadageeseand seaducks are plentiful. Pink and white campion,fragrantsaltspray rose, and English plantain are scatteredthroughoutthe islands. Where: Ferries to Georges Island leave from Long Wharf and RowesWharf near the New EnglandAquarium on Boston'scentralharborfront.From the north take exrt 24 (callahan Tunnel) off I-93. Proceedacrossintersectionto parking. From the southtake exit 22 (Atlantic Avenue-NorthernAvenue) off I-93. parking is straight ahead. Public transportation,takeMassachusetts Bay Transit Authority Blue Line to Aquarium Stop. Hours: Ferries operatedaily 9:00 A.M. to 5:00 p.tvr. May throughOctober.Bay StateCruises,617-723-7g00; Boston Harbor Cruises, 617-227-4321;and MassachusettsBay Line, 617-7 49-4500provide serviceto Georges Island. Admission: Rates vary among the commercial boats. seasonal taxi service from Georges Island to other islandsis free. Best time to visit: Late spring to early fall. Activities: Walking, camping (with permit), fishing, boating, nature study, historic study. park rangersand volunteersoffer island walks and fort tours. Pets: No. For more information: BostonHarbor IslandsStatepark, Building 45, 349 Lincoln Street,Hingham, MA OZO43;617-523-8396.

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EMERALD I\ECKLACE EmeraldNecklaceis a string of nine continuousparks in the heartof Boston.They startwith the BostonCommon and the Public Gardenand end with Franklin Park Zoo. JamaicaPond and Arnold Arboretum lie betweenthem. Other components are Commonwealth Avenue Mall, a thirty-two-acre promenadelined with linden, green ash, and maple; Back Bay Fens, with community gardensand a rose garden;the Riverway, a linear park along the Muddy River with a foot and bicycle pathway; Olmsted Park, a heavily wooded park with Leverett's Pondand Ward'sPond,and a kettleholesurroundedby a pathway,boathouse,and bandstand. FamedlandscapearchitectFrederick Law Olmsted designedall but threeof the parks. He designedthe park systemin the nineteenthcentury, creating green spaces for transportationcorridors, respitesfrom city noiseand pollution, and recreationalpurposes.Today, the parks are listed in the NationalRegisterof Historic Places. You can walk from one end to the other, but it's a long haul-fifteen miles. A betterway is to visit one or two places during an outing. Here are the ones highly recommended.

Boston Common/Public Garden Created in 1634, Boston Common is the grand dame of America's parks. Cows once grazed here and Colonial

'.'t)il X:S

Frederick Law Olmsted designedthe park system in the nineteenth century

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militia gatheredfor the Revolution.It still is a public forum. Across the street is the Public Garden.I did what thousandsof visitorsdo. I took a swanboat ride. They operatedaily 10:00A.M. to 4:00 P.M.mid-April to late September. Wide, pavedpathwaysgo pastcolorful flower beds and shady trees. Some speciesare imported, like the Maidenhairanddawnredwoodfrom China,the Thurlow weepingwillow from Japan,and the Belgianelm.

Arnold Arboretum Approximately15,000trees,shrubs,and vines grow at Arnold Arboretum.Expectto spendseveralhours walking the 265 acres.The casualvisitor, like myself, will simply enjoy looking at the common oaks, mountain laurel, conifers,English ivy, and midwinter euonymus from Northern China. The seriousbotanistcan do a lot of studying. Each tree and plant has been scientifically researchedand documented.Metal plateswith common and scientificnamesare attachedto eachone. The arboretum was founded in 1872. Harvard University leasesthe land from the city and managesthe collectionof plant life. All the treeshere are from the northern temperate zone. The hardy plants can withstand New England's changingweatherconditions,the summer'sheat and humidity, and winter'sharshwinds, cold, ice, and snow.

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

You'll probably want to return throughoutthe year, as every seasonoffers delightful scenery.Shadbush,redbud, and dogwood are among the first to bloom in the spring. Then it's mountain laurel, rhododendrons,and lilacs. As late as November, varietiesof euonymusdisplay delicatepink blossoms. Climbs to 198-footBusseyHill and 235-foot Peters Hill offer sweepingviews of the groundsbelow. The treesand shrubsmakeideal sheltersfor a variety of birds, while conesand berriesprovide them with a ready food supply. Squirrels and chipmunks feast on abundantacornsfrom oak trees. It's a drzzying effort to find one tree or shrub that stands out. Traipsing through the arboretum in late November, I thought I found that special one on the northern slope of Peters Hill - a Chinese Fringe with soft, blue berries. But no, soon I discoveredmy new favorite-the glossy hawthorn, its branchesweighed down with red berries resemblingminiaturesapples. Then again, as I thought back to May and the lilac blossoms,I wasn'tsure.

Franklin ParklZoo I couldn'thelp myself. I instinctivelysteppedback every time the Westerngorilla chargedforward and bounced off the glassenclosure.The highly protectivegorilla did not like me looking at his femalecompanion.The volunteer at Franklin Park Zoo's African Tropical Forestsaid

Eastern Massachusetts 89

it was commonbehavior.Only 35,000 Westernlowland gorillas exist, all in wet, tropical forests like the one createdat Franklin Park Zoo. Chestnut-redBongoantelopes,yellow-backduiker, WestAfrican dwarf crocodile, and leopard are someof the other occupants.Exotic birds fly overhead. Zulu fig, bamboo, and Abyssinian banana are grown in the hot, moist conditions.The averagetemperature in a rainforest is 80 degreesFahrenheitor more. Rainfall can exceed400 inchesa year. In comparison, is 41.5 inches. averagerainfall in Massachusetts The African Tropical Forest is the centerpieceof Franklin Park Zoo. But it's a lot more. Peacockswalk along the sidewalks and sit on railings outside Bird World. I spent an entire afternoonhere. Other attractions are the waterfowl pond, children'szoo, and Hoovesand Horns exhibits. Aoudad, aika deer, Grant's zebra, sable antelope, and Thomson's gazelle are among the year-round residents. Beyondthe zoo boundarieslie another500 acresof Franklin Park. Trails lead past Scarboro Pond and throughthe Wilderness. Where: Boston Common and Public Gardenare downtown off Tremont Street, Boylston Street, and Park Street. Arnold Arboretum is on the Arborway in Jamaica Plain. From Storrow Drive, follow the Fenway and StateI south.There is only on-streetparking. By public

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

transportationtake the OrangeLine to Forest Hills and walk one block to ForestHills gate entrance. To reach Franklin Park follow State203 east. Follow signsto enterpark on Circuit Drive. Hours: Swanboatrides,10:00A.M. to 4:00 p.M., daily mid-April to September.Arnold Arboretum Visitors Center,10:00A.M. to 4:00 P.M., MondaythroughFriday. FranklinPark Zoo,9:00 A.M. to 5:00 p.M., daily year-round except for Thanksgiving,Christmas,and New Year's. Best time to visit: Year-round. Activities: Walking, botanystudy, swanboat rides, zoo, ranger-ledtours, and educationalprograms. Pets: Allowed on leashin certain parks. For more information: Boston Common Visitor Information Center is located on the Tremont side of the Common. It supplies maps and brochures. Boston Parks and Recreation Department, 1010 MassachusettsAvenue, Boston, MA 02118; 617-6354505. CommonwealthZoologicalCorporation,617-4222OO2.Arnold Arboretum, t25 Arborway, JamaicaPlain, MA 0213O;617-524-1718.

BLI]E HILLS RBSERVATION Blue Hills Reservationfar exceededmy expectations.I'd read quite a lot about this sprawling woodlandsthirtyfive miles southwestof Boston. But the place still surprisedme.

Eastern Massachusetts

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If possible,make separatetrips to the easternand western sections,and return again in winter to crosscountryski. You canevendownhill ski on the William F. Rodgersski slopes. Over fifty miles of trails criss-crossthe 6,500-acre reservation.Someare old carriagelanes and others are narrow footpathsover ruggedterrain. The longestis the nine-mile Skyline Trail, which traversesthe entire Blue Hills Range. The Blue Hills are domesof granite. They originated when molten rock came up from the earth's interior. then cooled and solidified before it reachedthe surface. My first trip was to the westernsection-Begin with a visit to the Blue Hills TrailsideMuseum.It's run by the MassachusettsAudubon Society for the Metropolitan District Commission,which overseesthe reservation.It contains animal exhibits plus displays of the reservation's cultural and natural history. One learns that the Native Americans who lived in the area called themselves"Massachuseuck,"meaning"people of the great hill." I also learned that the reservation is home to the Timber rattlesnake,one of the rare and endangeredspeIt probably was just as well I cies in Massachusetts. didn't find one during my travels. The pond outside the museum attracts mallards, black ducks, and Canada geese.Water lily, pickerel weed, arrowheads,and blue flag grow here. A well-worn footpathstartsbehindthe museumand climbs moderatelyto Great Blue Hill. At 625 feet it is

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Natural Wonders of Massachusetts

the highestpoint in the reservation.Eliot Tower,a stone observationpost,affordssweepingviewsin everydirection. The Bostonskyline risesin the north. The reservation's HoughtonsPond lies to the south. I took North Skyline Trail east, rambling up and down a series of hills, before it reachespark headquafters.SouthSkyline Trail is an alternatereturn route. Other components of the western section are Houghtons Pond, a popular swimming area; Fowl Meadow, a large wetland along NeponsetRiver that is a prime birdwatchingarea; PonkapoagPond, a fine fishing spot for pickerel and bass; and PonkapoagBog, where a boardwalk travels through a sphagnummoss mat and where osprey nest in deadtrees. During my outing to the easternsectionI took the Skyline Trail to ChicatawbutOutlook. A secondstone observation tower sits atop the outlook and provides anotherview of Bostonand BostonHarbor. I continuedeastalong Skyline Trail as far as Kitchmakin Hill before I doubled back to the trailhead off State28, the roadwaythat dividesthe reservationin two. Rock climbers tackle crags in the RattlesnakeHill area and steep walks in the twenty-two-acreQuincy QuarriesHistoric Site adjacentto the reservation.Vegetation changesas one hikes up and down the hills. You'll find oaks, maples,and hickories in one place; beech, hemlock, and yellow birch in another.Red cedar and pitch pine dominatecertain others. Where: Take State128 south from Bostonto exit 28 in Milton. Follow State138north for onemile to Blue Hills TrailsideMuseum.

EasternMassachusetts 93

Hours: Openyear-roundsunriseto sunset.TrailsideMuseumis open10:00A.M. to 5:00 p.M. Tuesdaythrough Sundayand Monday,holidays.Nominal entrancefee. Activities: Hiking, picnicking,swimming,fishing,boating at PonkapoagPond, rock climbing, mountainbike riding on designatedtrails, horsebackriding, crosscountry skiing, snowshoeing,downhill skiing, rangerled interpretiveprograms. Pets: Allowed on leash. Other: Quincy Quarries Historic Site contains trails through the twenty-two acresthat include Granite Railway Quarry.A small museumshowcases the history of quarrying. For more information: MetropolitanDistrict Commission,South Region, 695 Hillside streer, Milton, MA 02196, 617-69g-1902; Blue Hills TrailsideMuseum,1904CantonAvenue,Milton, MA 02186,617-333-0690.

WORLD'S END RESERVATION Thking in the magnificent view from Planter's Hill in World'sEnd Reservation,one feelson top of the world. Planter'sHill is just 120feet high, but it offers a sweeping vistaof BostonHarbor and BostonSkyline. So does Rocky Neck, a fifty-foot-high cliff on the reservation's easternside. It facestoward Boston'sOuter Harbor and the AtlanticOceanbeyond. Trusteesof ReservationsoverseesWorld's End, locatedon a peninsulathat separatesHingham Bay and Weir River.

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

Several trails loop around the property. It took almost threehours to completethe walk from the parking lot to the far northern end and back. Benchesare conveniently locatedalong the broad, tree-linedpathways. I visited in the fall, when the reservationis less crowded and foliage is splendid.Maple and oak treesin the woodlandsen route to Planter'sHill put on a brilliant display of red and orange. They contrastwith the deep green of Easternred cedar. I spotteda red-tailed hawk soaring above Planter's Hill and a great blue heron at the edge of a marsh. Migratory birds were sparseon this calm day, although they often are seenin goodly numbersin spring and fall. Two drumlins-one being Planter'sHill and the other being World's End-are connectedby a narrow causeway. Drumlins are small hills formed of glacial drift over 10,000yearsago. The mostly oval-shapedmounds are cornmonin southernNew England. On the other side of the causewayyou passa rocky beach and then headup World's End. After taking in the view, headback down and over the causeway.I took the path left to Rocky Neck, a high granitepromontory. The path runs past the manmadeIce Pond. At one time the pond was a valuable sourceof ice for farmers. Today, waterfowl find refuge in it. My approachstartled a group of four mallards. Once past the pond you can head straight back to the parking lot or take a short side trail to a boardwalk that goesthrough a marsh before you return to the main path. Where: From Boston take State3 south. Thke exit 14 to

EasternMassachusetts 95

State228 north. Go 6.7 milesand turn left on State3A'. Follow for one mile and turn right onto SummerStreet. Cross Rockland Street at traffic light. Follow Martins Lane to entrance. Hours: Opendaily 10:00A.M. to 5:00 p.M. in summer; ll:00 A.M. to 4:00P.M.in winter.A smalladmissionfee is charged. Besttime to visit: Spring to fall. Pets: Allowed on leash. For more information: Trustees of Reservations, Greater Boston and SoutheastRegional Office, 246r- Washington Street, Canton. MA 02021: 617-821-2977.

CapeCod

CAPE COD NATIONAL SEASHORE Pristine beaches,magnificent dunes, pine and beech forests, freshwaterponds,and salt marshesaccentCape Cod National Seashore.The 196l founding of the National Seashoreprotectsthe specialqualitiesof the environment and habitats within its 44,596 acres. The forty-mile-long stretchbetweenEasthamand Provincetown providesa variety of recreationalactivities.Swimming, fishing, bicycling, windsurfing, walking, and hunting are all possibilities. Opportunitiesfor historical study are plentiful. At Pilgrim Heightsin North Truro is a springthoughtto be the Pilgrims' first source of fresh water in America. Guglielmo Marconi built the first wirelessstationon the peninsulaat Wellfleet.

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Cape Cod

97

Cape Cod has long inspired writers. Naturalist Henry Bestonspenta year of solitudeon Coast Guard Beachtn1927.His chronicle,TheOutermostHouse,is a classic.Henry DavidThoreauwrote of hisjourneyshere in the 1850sin the book Cape Cod. There are no accommodationsor concessionson National Seashoreproperty,but picnicking and camping in self-containedvehicles are allowed. Plenty of restaurants, motels, cottages,campgrounds,and bed and breakfastplacesare found in nearbytowns. You can see quite a bit in a weekend, but allow three to five days for a more leisurely and complete experience. A Little Geology Geologicallyspeaking,the capeis young: it is a product of the Ice Age. Glaciersdepositedrock, sand, and clay over the area 15,000yearsago. Glacial moraines,outwashes,and kettleholesare prominentfeaturesthroughout the cape. State6 through the capefollows the Sandwich morainefor a good distance. Wind andwaterkeepchangingthe cape,dissipating sandin someplaces,andbuilding it up in others.Driving to ProvincetownI passedsanddunesthat are gradually encroachingon the roadway. Walking on Coast Guard BeachI passedareaswherethe parking lot once was. Getting There The NationalSeashore is locatedon what is known as the

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Natural Wonders of Massachusetts

Lower Cape,forty mileseastof whereCapeCodbegins. The Bourneand SagamoreBridgesover CapeCod Canal unofficially mark your arrival on the cape. Gettingacrossthe bridgesanddriving the roadways

Dunes, fences, and roses of Cape Cod

Cape Cod

99

to the National Seashorecan causeplenty of headaches just abouteveryweekendin the summer.Sometimes,the trip backis far worse,with traffic backedup for mileson Sundayevenings.At one time Labor Day beganthe offseason,but now plenty of visitorscometo the capedurof lower pricesand ing the fall seasonto take advantage moderatetemperatures. You havethreebasictravelchoices.They all merge in Orleans.The most direct and fastestway to reachthe is via State6, a four-laneroad part of NationalSeashore goes along the southernside of the 28 way. State the cape. Traffic is often bumper to bumper; fast food restaurantsand shoppingplazasline both sidesof the road for miles. The approachto Chatham is picturesque, however,and the final stretchto where State28 meets State6 in Orleansis one of the niceston the cape.State 64, follows the north Cape Cod side and goes through towns with art galleriesand craft shops.It too connects with State6 in Orleans.

Where to Begin Startwith a visit to SaltPondVisitor Centeron State6 in Eastham.Farthereastis ProvinceLandsVisitors Center on RacePoint in Provincetown.Eachcontainsexhibits. publications,audiovisualpresentations, and information services.A busy scheduleof ranger-ledwalks and interpretiveprogramsare offered at both. SaltPondis opendaily, mid-Marchto mid-January. It providesshuttlebus serviceto Coast Guard Beach,

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

where parking is limited. The shuttle runs from Juneto September.Province Lands is open daily mid-April to December. In winter information servicesare availableat Race Point RangerStationin Provincetownand at park headquartersin SouthWellfleet.

WALKING TRAILS The NationalSeashorehasnine self-guidednaturetrails. Leaflets are available at eachtrailhead. The Buttonbush Trail at Salt Pond Visitor Center has large text and Braille labels. A note of caution. Poison ivy is abundant.Check for ticks after walks, especiallyif you've passedhigh grassesand bushes.Deer ticks can transmit Lyme disease, which can cause arthritis and meningitis if not detectedand treatedearly. Some of the trails are quite short. Cranberry Bog Trail, for instance,is just a half-mile long. But nice surprisesoften comein small packages.So it is in this case. The trail goes through Pamet Cranberry Bog. In June and July, the plant's pink flowers are in bloom. In September and October,the bright red berry appears. Severalother trails take their namesfrom dominant vegetation found along the way. One is the 1.25-mile Atlantic White CedarSwampTrail which beginsin Marconi State Site. I followed a boardwalk deep into the swampand passedthe strong-scented white cedar,either reddish brown or weatheredash gray in color. The

Cape Cod

l0l

swamp'slayersof peatalso supporthighbushblueberry, red maple, and swamp azalea.The differencefrom the habitat where the trail startedwas startling. There, soil was sandyandpitch pine and bearoak treeswere stunted and contortedby howling winds.

Great Island Thail By far the longestand most difficult trail in the National Seashoreis Great Island Trail. It is four miles one way. Thereare someuphill climbs and stretchesthrough sand. Take plenty of water, snacks,suntanlotion, and a hat' You'll be out in the elementsfor a long time. It beginsat the end of a deadendroad in Wellfleet, three miles from State6. The trail is poorly marked in places.More than once I found myself guessingwhich way to turn. The beginningis easy enoughto follow. It leaves from the parking lot and goes down a set of wooden stairs to an inlet of Herring River. High dunesseparate the sandypath from CapeCod Bay on the right. A marsh is on your left. This stretch between the Wellfleet mainland and GreatIslandis known as The Gut. Soonthe path swings left andcontinuesarounda marshto a trail junction. You can proceedstraightthrough a pitch pine forest, or turn left as I did and make a loop along the south side of the marsh. I had a field day picking up seashells,which is one of my favorite pastimes. I had quickly filled my pocketswith colorful scallop shells. The brown shells

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

of large horseshoecrabs were scatteredon the beach. Fifty minutes later I rejoined the main route. It leavesthe pitch pines, skirts anothermarsh, and heads up Great Beach Hill. It's more pitch pines and yet anothermarshbefore you reachtidal flats. I was lucky it was low tide. I could follow the sand flats acrossthe narrow peninsula1.5 milesto JeremyPoint. The areais under water during high tide. After a much needed break, I returned over the beachalong Cape Cod Bay. With the soft sand underfoot, it took almost ninety minutesto reachthe parking lot.

NATIONAL SEASHORE NATURE TRAILS Eastham Fort Hill rfail: 1.5 miles. Follow the sign off state6 to Governor PrenceRoad. It overlooks NausetBay, goes through Red Maple Swamp, and passesremnantsof Nauset Indian settlementsand the former home of sea captainEdward Penniman(park rangerssometimeslead tours through the house). Nauset Marsh Trail: one mile. Begin at Salt pond Visitor Center.The trail goespast Salt pond (a kettle pond) and a salt marsh, where you might seeheronsand other birds feeding on the rich food depositsbrought by the high tide. Buttonbush Trail: one-quartermile. Begin at Salt pond visitor center. The trail is specially designedfor the

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visually impaired.There are guide ropes and signswith text in large print and Braille. It goespast a small kettle pond, black alder, and varietiesof oak.

Wellfleet Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail: 1.5 miles. Begin at Marconi Station Site. The trail passesthrough swamp with statelywhite cedars. Great Island Trail: four miles one way. Begin at far end of Wellfleet Center.The trail travelsthrough marshesand pitch pine forests.The finat 1.5miles goesover tidal flats along a narrow peninsulato JeremyPoint (impassableat high tide). Returnover sandybeachalongCapeCod Bay.

TFuro Cranberry Bog Trail: one mile. Begin at Youth Hostel on North Pamet Road off State 6. Boardwalk goes through a cultivatedcranberrybog. Small Swamp Trail: three-quartersmile. Begin at Pilgrim Heightsarea. The trail goesthrough wooded area with pitch pine, bayberry,highbushblueberry, bear oak. Overlook to dunescalled PeakedHills. Here the British man-o-war Somersetgroundedon Peaked Hills Bar on November7 , 1778. Pilgrim Spring Trail: three-quarters

Begins at

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

Pilgrim Heightsarea.Leadsto a sitewherePilgrims may have discoveredtheir first fresh water in New England in November1620.

Provincetown Beech Forest Trail: one mile off RacePoint Road. The trail goesthrough a forest of American beechtreesand loops around freshwater ponds. Other vegetation includes sheeplaurel, swamp azalea,yellow birch, gray birch, black oak, and tupelo black gum. The trail is moderatelydifficult, going through soft sandand climbing up log steps.

BICYCLE TRAILS The National Seashorecontainsnearly twelve miles of paved bicycle trails. The NausetTrail is shortestat 1.6 miles. It goes between Salt Pond Visitor Center and Coast Guard Beach. Head of the MeadowsTrail covers two miles betweenHigh Head Road at Pilgrim Heights in Truro to Head of the MeadowsBeach. It makesa lot of sensefor the bicycle trails to take you to the beach.The beachwasjust the respiteI needed after cycling the 5.75-mile loop trail and three spursof the Province Land Trail. It's quite hilly with numerous twists and turns through dry, sandy land with lots of pitch pine. The quarter-mileRace Point Road spur brings the

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rider to RacePoint Beach,while a one-milepathleadsto Herring Cove Beach. My choice to head to Herring Cove was a goodone. It waslow tide, so I could walk far out along toward Long Point, the little hook of land at the top of the capeand the National Seashore. The cape's relative flatness and well-maintained trail network makesbike riding a popular activity. The cape cod Rail Trail follows the right-of-way of the PennsylvaniaCentralRailroadnearly twenty miles from Dennis to Eastham.It connectsNickerson State Park with the Salt PondVisitor Center.Free parking is available at the trail's accessPoints. Other recommendedbike trails are Cape Cod Canal, which runs eight miles on both sidesof the canal, and3.6-mileFalmouthShiningSeaTrail, whichgoesbetweenFalmouthand WoodsHole. The ShiningSeaTrail is a personalfavorite. It's straight,flat, and picturesque. Large maples and locusts line the path first. Then it passesmarshesand goesalongthe beachin the direction of NobskaLight. It endsat Little Harbor in WoodsHole.

BEACHES The nature walks and bicycle rides are part of the National Seashoreexperience,but what brings mostvisitors here are the beaches. CapeCod has 365 miles of shoreline,and arguably the most magnificent stretchesare within the National Seashore. The parkland's beaches remain unspoiled despitetheir heavyuse.

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

Everyonehasa favorite. Mine is Racepoint Beach, but you can't go wrong with any of the others- Nauset Light, Coast Guard, Marconi, Head of the Meadows, and Herring cove. Several towns also have public beaches. At RacePoint, as at any other beach,you can walk for miles acrosspristine sand.You might seesurf fishers trying to catch a supper of bluefish or striped bass. charter boats are spottedat sea with passengersfishing the waters for cod, halibut, pollack, bluefin tuna, flounder, and sometimeshaddock. One day you might seea specialtreat as I did. The beach was fairly empty on an early october afternoon when I came across two fishermen peering through binoculars near Race Point Light. They had spotteda humpback whale a few hundred yards off shore. They were kind enoughto let me take a look. On my return large groups of herring gulls and great black-backedgulls walked the sandin front of me. A gannetdove repeatedlyinto the white-cappedwaves.

VEGETATION The sandy soil that makessuchbeautiful beachescreates a fragile and impoverished environment for plants, shrubs, and trees. Ranger-ledwalks through province Lands are a good way to learn about habitatthat grows on the Outer Cape. The booKet CommonTiailside plants on the Cape cod National seashore is a worthwhile purchase. I

The proud seagull

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Natural Wonders of Massachusetts

bought it at the Salt pond visitor center and took it along on many of my excursions. Pitch pines thrive in the poor glacial soils. Inland they can grow fifty feet tall, but salt spray and harsh winds stunt their growth in exposedareas.Black oak, white oak, sassafras,and black cherry are othercofirmon trees on the cape. Despite their strugglefor survival in the poor soil, some of the plants are quite beautiful. American beach grass is most conspicuouson cape dunes.Dusty miller has adaptedto the harsh dune environmentas well. Its yellow flowers first appearin July. You'll also find broom crowberry, golden heather, beach pea, and beach heather. A little farther inland grow blueberry, huckleberry, and sheep laurel. Wet swamp areas support swamp azalea, winterberry, and highbushblueberry. A ranger-ledwalk at salt pond took us on the edges of the marshes with their own array of plant life - the stringy eelgrass, glasswort, salt marsh h"y, and sea lavenderwith its lovely purple flowers. During calm, sun-drencheddays in summer it seemsthat the dunesand their fragile plant life are out of harm's way. But a visit in late Decemberwhen a rainstorm was bearing down on the capechangedmy mind. wild surf poundsthe shore. At high tide the waves reached the base of the high cliffs at Marconi station site. The cape'sbattle againsterosionis a constantone. where: Thke state 6 eastacrosscape cod. The National Seashorebegins on the Lower cape forty miles east of Provincetown.

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Hours: Trails and beachesfor walking are open yearround dawn to dusk, Salt Pond Visitor Center is open daily, mid-April to December.Summer hours are 9:00 A.M. to 5:30 P.M. and winter hours are 9:00 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. Someeveningprogramsare offered. Admission: $5 parking fee at beaches. Best time to visit: Year-round.Summer is peak tourist season.Fall is less crowded. Beaches and trails are alwaysopen, but lodging and other servicesoutsidethe park are minimal in winter. Activities.'Walking,bike riding, swimming, picnichng, horseback riding on designatedtrails, fishing (state licenserequiredfor freshwaterfishing), interpretiveprograms, touring historic sites,overland vehicle sanduse (April to November with permit, $45 a yeat permits operation of registered four-wheel-drive vehicle on designatedroutes,$75 a year to park overnightin designatedareasApril l5-November 15. Pets: Allowed on leash in some places. Prohibited on naturetrails, picnic areas,protectedbeaches. Other: Gift shops at visitors centers, but no concessions.Charterfishingtrips, whalewatches,boatrentals, bike rentals,dune tours availablethroughoutCape Cod outsidethe National Seashore. Life Saving Serviceand lighthouseshave been an integral part of the cape. The Park Service conducts tours of the Old Harbor Life Saving Museum at Race Point Beach. Highland Light, Nauset Light, and Three SistersLighthousesare within the National Seashore. FerriesleaveWoodsHole and Hyannis for Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket.Good places to visit are Gay

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

Head Cliffs, Cedar Neck Tree Sanctuary,Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuaryand Cape Poge Wildlife Refugeon Martha's Vineyard, and Long Pond Sanctuaryand Coskata-CoatueWildlife Refuge on Nantucket.Some requirea good dealof effort to reach. The former whalingtown of Provincetownis now a tourist meccaand art colony.Its main streetblendssales of T-shirts, red plasticlobsters,and saltwatertaffo with galleriesfor seriousart aficionados.The town'sfamous landmark is Pilgrim Monument, which commemorates the landingof the Pilgrimsin 1620andthe signingof the Mayflower Compact. Golf rivals beach-goingas a popularactivity. The cape'sgolf coursesare renowned. For more information: Superintendent,Cape Cod National Seashore, South Wellfleet, MA 02663; 508-349-3785.Salt Pond Visitor Center, 508-255-3421.ProvinceLands Visitor Center, 508-778-2600.SteamshipAuthority, P.O. Box 284, DepartmentAA, Woods Hole, MA 02543; 508540-2022

ASUMET HOLLY AND WILDLIFE SANCTUARY Asumet Holly and Wildlife Sanctuarycoversjust fortynine acres,but it containsa thousandholly trees.American, English, Chinese,andJapanese holly arerepresented amongthe eight speciesand sixty-five varieties. It seemeda December visit was in order to this sanctuarywhose fame comes in large part from holly. American holly's glossygreenleavesand red berriesare

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a favorite for Christmasdecorations.In fact, the sanctuary holds Holly Daysevery December. Holly lovers are forever indebted to Wilfred Wheeler, who was the state'sfirst commissionerof agricultureand beganthe holly plantationin 1925. He Togetherthey selectedJosephDias as superintendent. holly native American best the chose and transplanted speciesbasedon their beautyand heartiness.The property was purchasedby JosephLilly III after Wheeler's death. Lilly donatedthe preserveto the Massachusetts AudubonSocietyin 1964. A trail map and pamphlet highlighting fifty-one hollies are availableat the sanctuary.Someof Asumet's hollies are full-sizetreeswhile othersare shrubsthree has led to varietiesof blue holfeet tall. Crossbreeding lies displayedat the sanctuary.One variety of Japanese holly hasblackberries,while one Americanholly transplantedfrom nearbyBarnstablehas orangefruit. My main interestwas in the holly trees,but I soon discoveredotherfeaturesand put a summervisit on my schedulefor next year. One trail circlesGrassyPond, a kettle pond formed during the glacialretreatover 10,000yearsago. Lacking any brook, the pond is dependenton springrainfall and its level fluctuatesfrom year to year. Rare wildflowers,includingPlymouthgentianand sundew, grow in the pond habitat, which protects the rare damselfly.My visit was way pastthe bestmonthsto seethe wildflowers,mid-JulythroughSeptember. A short sidetrail goespastanotherkettle, this one a small bog wherecranberriesgrow. More than 130bird specieshavebeensightedat the

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Natural Wonders of Massachusetts

sanctuary.Each April since1935a colony of barn swallows has arrived. They mate and nest in an old barn at the sanctuaryentrance.In August, the colony departsfor its wintering groundsin the tropics. Where: From State L28 and State 151 in North Falmouth, follow State 151east for four miles. Turn right on Currier Road. Entranceis 100yards aheadon right. Hoars: Grounds open dawn to dusk. Closed Mondays exceptmajor holidays. Admission: $3 for adults, $2 for seniorcitizensand children. Free for Massachusetts AudubonSocietymembers. Best time to visit: Year-round. Activities.' Walking, bird and flower observation,natural history and horticulturalprograms,tours of Elizabeth Islands,Holly Days. Pets: No. Other: Lowell Holly Reservationsin Mashpeehasover 300 holly trees. Trusteesof Reservationsmanagesthe 135acreson a narrow peninsula,ConaumetNeck. Foot trails go to the tip of the peninsulaand past two ponds. From State 6 take exit 2 and follow Route 130 south.Go left on Cotuit Road, then right on SouthSandwich Road. Entranceis on right, hiddenin woods. For more information: Asumet Holly and Wildlife Sancfuary,286 Ashumet Road, North Falmouth,MA 02536;508-563-6390. NICKERSON STATE PARK It's easy to forget the natural aspectsof Nickerson State Park during the summer, when campgroundsoverflow,

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swimming areasteem with bathers, and cyclists ride the bike paths.But they are the reasonNickersonStatePark is so popular. Nickerson contains eight kettle ponds, whoseclean, refreshingwatersattractswimmers,canoeists, and fishermen.And plenty of waterfowl. The depressionswere formed when the glacier retreatedacrossNew Englandthousandsof yearsago. In parts of Cape Cod where the water table is near the surface,the kettleholesbecameponds. Cliff Pond is the largestone in NickersonStatePark. It seemsto shrink in size during summer,when large crowds swarm the narrow, sandyshoreline. Nickerson presentsa different look in the late fall and winter. It's easyto walk the trails that encircleCliff Pond, the smaller Little Cliff and Flax Ponds, and the evensmallerRuth Pond.Waterfowl are the primary occupants. So many times I camearound a bend and startled either black ducksor mallards,who quickly took flight. The narrow Little Cliff Pond is an excellentplace for viewing waterfowl. Rows of cattails,arrowhead,and pickerelweedline its edges. A bicycle is a good way to get aroundthe 1,955acre park. The three-mile Park Road Trail goes over rolling terrain past pitch pine, white pine, and spruce. Ruth Pond and overlook Trails go through stands of statelyred pines. The ride is moderatelysteepin places. You can connect with the twenty-mile-long Cape Cod Rail Trail outsidethe park entrance. It took severalattemptsbefore I got a campsitefor onestayin July. The 418campsiteshadbeenavailableon a first-come, first-servedbasis, but the park plannedto take reservationsfor the first time in 1994.

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

The park's main businessis summertourists, but winter enthusiastsare not forgotten. Bike pathsserveas cross-countryski trails. Where: Thke State6 east to exit 12 in Brewster.Take State6A west and follow signsto entrance, Hours: Day-use areas open dawn to dusk. CampgroundsopenApril 15to mid-October.Costis $6 a night for regular site and $7 for premium site on water'sedge. Best time to visit: Year-round. Activities: Hiking, swimming, picnicking, camping, boating,fishing, horsebackriding, cross-country skiing, ranger-ledinterpretiveprograms. Pets: Allowed on leash. Other: Camp store. For more information: Nickerson StatePark, Main Street,Brewster,MA 02631; 508-896-349r.

MONOMOY NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE Trying hard to ignore the queasinessin my stomach,I poppedanotherpeppermintcandyin my mouthand concentratedon the shorelineaheadas our small cruiseboat pushed forward through choppy water and headedfor the islands of Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge.We had left OutermostHarbor Marina in Chathamand were in searchof harbor and gray sealswho haul out on the winter beachesof North Monomoy Island and South Monomoy Island. I quickly forgot my discomfortwhen

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hundredsof harbor sealswere spotted.They huddledin masses,coveringentire sectionsof the shoreline. The common small seals of brown and gray are well adaptedto the frigid watersand air temperaturesoff Cape Cod and coastalwaters as far north as Labrador. The large gray seal is sometimesseen on Cape Cod as well.

A harbor seal

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

I had signedup for the sealcruisethroughWellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary.The previoustrips hadbeencanceled becauseof stormy weather. While seals are the primary attraction, plenty of waterbirdsare seen. A variety of sea ducks-scooter, eider, oldsquaws- are abundant. Most of the 2,750-acrerefugeis accessible by boat only. The sanctuaryand Cape Cod Museum of Natural History in Brewsteroffer day trips with naturalistguides to the 2.5-mile-long North Monomoy Island and the five-mile-longSouthMonomoy Island,which many consider the finest birdwatching spot in New England. The refuge provides nestinghabitatto migratory waterfowl. Over 250 specieshave been observedat the refuge and forty-nine speciesnest here, including endangeredpiping plovers and roseateterns. The forty-acre Morris Island sectionis accessible by foot and automobile over a dike connectedto the mainland. Morris Island includes refuge headquarters and a 1.5-mileinterpretivetrail acrossbeach,dunes,and salt marsh. A trail map and pamphleton refuge birds is availableat headquarters.The trail startsto the left of the building. I took the trail during a visit in early September. Woodenstepsleaddown the cliffside to the beachbelow, where the trail headswest acrossthe sand, then swings right toward a seriesof dunes.They are nestinggrounds for herring gulls and black-backedgulls. The trail finally headsback to open Morris Island Flats, where sanderlings and gulls scurry about, picking at the sand each time a wave retreats.The trail follows the beachback to the wooden stairs and returnsto the refugeparking lot.

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COMMON SHOREBIRDS The ocean beaches, tidal flats, and marshes in Massachusettsdraw an assortment of birds. Here are some you may see: Northern gannet: Frequentlyobserveddiving headfirst into the sea for food. Common tern: lt's the best-known tern in the East. lt resemblesa gull but is smaller, more slender, and with a more pointed bill. Laughinggull: fust one of its speciesis found on Cape Cod. lt is distinguishedby dark feet, dark bill, gray back. Sanderting:One of the more familiar sandpipers. A common sight on sandy beaches,it seems like it's always playing tag with the waves. Piping plover: Prefers sandy beaches. lts nesting groundsare protected. The small, white bird has a black ring around its neck, black-tippedyellow bill, yellow legs and feet. Greater yellowlegs: Mostly EraY,with yellow legs. An early spring arrival.

Where: Take State6 eastto State137 south to State28 eastthroughChathamto ChathamLighthouseand Coast Guard Station. Take first left after lighthouse, then first right. Follow Morris Island Road to signs for refuge on left. Hours: Sunriseto sunsetyear-round. Activities.'Walking, birdwatching, seal watching, surf fishing, shellfishing(bY Permit). Pets: No. Other: Two organizationsoffer guided boat tours to Monomoy Islands. Cape Cod Museum of Natural

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History in Brewster, 508-896-3867 . Massachusetts Audubon Society, Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, 508-349-2615. For more infonnation: Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge, Wiki Wuy, Chatham,MA 02633; 508-945-0594.

WELLFLEET

BAY WILDLIFE

SANCTUARY

Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuaryprovides a wonderful introduction to Cape Cod's habitats. Five miles of trails go past pine woods, ponds, fields, and salt marshes. The fragrancesof bayberry, sweetfern, and sweet pepperbush were delightful as I strolled Goose Pond Trail. A trail guide can be purchasedat the sanctuary office for a nominal fee or can be borrowed for the outing. The 1.S-mileself-guidednaturetrail goesthrough a woodland of pine and oaks to an earthendam with Silver Spring Pond on the left and salt marsh on the right. During a summer visit yellow and white water lilies were in full bloom on the pond's surface. The trail then goes through a woodland of Norway spruceand various types of pine-scotch, pitch, red, white. The footpath soon reaches Goose Pond. The area attracts ducks, herons, kingfishers,greateryellowleg, leastsandpipers, and semipalmatedsandpipers. Just beyondthe pond a side trail canbe taken to Try Island, unlesshigh tide covers the boardwalk acrossthe marsh. I was able to walk around the island and reach

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the tidal flats whereshorebirdsfeed. The islandis named after the early tryworks that renderedwhaleblubber into oil. Pilot whaleboneshavebeenfound in the marshover the years. Double backto thejunction with GoosePond Trail. The pathwayswingsleft pastdainty dwarf wild rose, sea lavender,and beachgrass.Soon after it rounds a bend, and the aromasof sweetfern, beachheather,and huckleberry fill the air. The trail eventuallyreturns to Goose Pond and the path back to the sanctuaryoffice. On a return visit in early fall many treesand bushes sportedbright foliage and held fruits that were colorful in their own right. Grapesare a particular favorite of birds. The beach plum comes in shadesof reddish purple, blue, and yellow. Where: Thke State 6 east. Entrance is on left side of town line. road immediatelypastEastham-Wellfleet Hours: Groundsopen winter 8:00 A.M. to dusk; summer 8:00 A.M. to 8:00P.M. Admission: $l for adults; $Z for senior citizens and children. Free for MassachusettsAudubon Society members. Best time to visit: Year-round. Activities: Hiking, birdwatching, natural history programs,guidedboat tours to Monomoy NationalWildlife Refuge. Pets: No. Other: Nature center and gift shop. Family tent campAudubonSocietymeming is availableto Massachusetts bers of at leastone year.

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For more information: Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary,Wellfleet, MA 02663; 508-349-2615.

WHALE WATCH Nearly 1.5 miles out from ProvincetownHarbor I was beginningto think my whale watch trip was a bust. Still no sighting. Many passengers, myself included,vainly scannedthe water and horizon. Moments later my worries endedwhen the captain easedup on the throttle as two whales were spottedat four o'clock high. They were humpbackwhalesforty to fifty feet long. Humpbacksare residentwhalesof New England waters from mid-April through November. They winter in the WestIndies. The larger finback whale (fifty to seventy-fivefeet) is sometimesspotted.A specialtreat is the sightingof a right whale, becausefewer than 350 North Atlantic right whales remain in the world. They can be seenin Cape Cod Bay in spring. Five different humpbackswould captureour attention during the next two hours. Each time a whale was spotted,passengersscurried from starboardto port and back to watch the magnificentmammals. I chosethe Dolphin Fleet for my whale watch simply by happenstance. A discountcouponwas availableat the motel where I stayed the previous night. Several other companiesoffer whale excursionsfrom Provincetown, Hyannis, Plymouth, and Boston.Most boatshave

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open top decks, enclosedcabin concessionstand, and restrooms. Staff from the Centerfor CoastalStudiesservedas naturalistsfor the trip. The center conductswhale and

'ii=rep m;;&,

_6

-*@j-JN

Take a boat out of Provincetown to watch whales

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Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

marine research.Researchers have followed manyof the whalesfor years.They'veassignedthem namessuchas Salt, Trunk, and Agassiz. Our spottersgleefully pointed out Salt, who was first sightedin capewaters In 1975. It was like running into a favorite family member. The whales are named and recognizedby markings,particularly thoseon their dorsalfins. As one might suspect,the undersideof Salt's dorsalfin was white. I took one of the last whale watching trips of the seasonon the last Monday in October. The eighty or so passengerswere told that whale activity had beenquite high in the pastfew days.It was with much anticipation that we left the dock. We slippedout of the harbor, pastthreesmall lighthouses,rounded Race Point, and headedinto the open sea. It took awhile to reachany whales,but oncewe did the action was practically nonstop. The first pair swam side by sidebefore they dove under water,then surfaced a few minuteslater, and let out a blow. I madly snapped photographswhenevera whale raisedits fluke out of the water before diving back underneaththe surface. Two groups of ten to twelve Atlantic white-sided dolphinsput on a showof their own. A coupleof gannets were spottedas well. Two humpbacksdecidedto get a closer look at us. First one, then the other, approachedour vessel and swam underneathus a half-dozen times They were so close you could smell their foul breath. The naturalist called this a boat encounter.The climax came when a

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humpback breached, leaping completely out of the water. There seemedto be no end to the whale sightings. Even though the captain extended our stay at sea, we headedback all too soon to Provincetown.

Where: Thke State 6 east to Provincetown. Turn left onto Conwell Street,right onto Bradford Street,and left onto StandishStreet.Pier is at end of street. Hours: Most whale watchingfleets operatedaily April throughOctober. Admission: Rates range from $12 to $20 depending on age. For more information: In Provincetown, Dolphin Fleet, 800-826-9300; ProvincetownWhale Watch, Inc. , Ranger, 800-287only. In Plymouth,Capt. 0374in easternMassachusetts JohnBoats,800-242-2469.

Selected References

A Guide to the Properties of The Tiusteesof Reservations. The Trusteesof Reservations(572 EssexStreet, Beverly,MA 01915-1530) , 1992. Cruickshank, Allan D. A Pocket Guide to Birds (New York: WashingtonSquarePress),1960. Friary, Ned, and Bendure,Glenda. Walksand Rambles on Cape Cod and the Islands, A Naturalist's Hiking Guide (Woodstock, vT: Backcountry Publications), 1992. Jorgenson,Neil . A Guide to New England'sLandscape (Chester,CT: The Globe PequotPress),1977.

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SelectedReferences

I25

Laubauch,Rene.A Guideto Natural Placesin the Berkshire Hills (Stockbridge,MA: Berkshire House, Publishers),1992. Leahy, ChristopherW. An Introduction to Massachusetts Birds (Lincoln, MA: Massachusetts Audubon Society), 1975. Little, Richard D. Exploring Franklin Counry, A Geology Guide (Greenfield, MA: Valley Geology Publications),1989. Sammartino,ClaudiaF. TheNorthfield Mountain Interpreter (Berlin, CT: NortheastUtilities), 1981. Stevens,Lauren R. Hikes and Walksin the Berkshire Hills (Stockbridge,MA: BerkshireHouse, Publishers), 1990. Whatlay, Michael E. CommonTiailside Plants of Cape Cod National Seashore(Eastham,MA: EasternNational Park and MonurnentAssociation),1988.

Selected Agencies

AppalachianMountain Club 5 Joy Street Boston,MA 02108 617-523-0636 CapeCod National Seashore SouthWellfleet, MA 02663 508-249-3785 Audubon SocietY Massachusetts SouthGreat Road Lincoln, MA 01773 617-259-9500

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SelectedAgencies

Massachusetts Departmentof Environmental Management Division of Forestsand Parks 100CambridgeStreet,19thFloor Boston,MA 02202 (in Massachusetts) 800-831-0569 ; 617-727-3180 Massachusetts Division of Fisheriesand Wildlife 508-792-7270 MetropolitanDistrict Commission 20 SomersetStreet Boston,MA 02108 617-727-7090 Trusteesof Reservations 527 EssexStreet Beverly,MA 01915-1530 508-921-1944 U.S. Fish andWildlife Service NortheastRegion 300 WestGate Center Hadley,MA 01035 413-252-8200

127

Index BI C Y C L ING Blue Hills Reservation,Milton, 90-93 Cape Cod National Seashore,South Wellfleet. 104-105 Middlesex Fells Reservation,Stoneham, 7 5 -7 7 Mount Greylock State Reservation, Lanesborough,16-22 Northfield Mountain Recreation and EnvironmentalCenter, Northfield, 29-31 Parker River National Wildlife Refuge, Newburyport, 69-72 Pittsfield State Forest, Pittsfield, 14-16 Wachusett Mountain State Reservation, Princeton, 45-46 BOATING, CANOEING ANdRAFTING Bartholomew'sCobble, Ashley Falls, 7-l I Blackstone River and Canal Heritage State Park, Uxbridge, 54-56 Blue Hills Reservation,Milton, 90-93 Boston Common and Public Garden, Boston, 85-87, 89-90 Boston Harbor Islands State Park, Hingham, 82-84 Cape Cod National Seashore,South Wellfleet, 105-106 Douglas State Forest, Douglas, 52-54 Great Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, Sudbury, 63-65 Ipswich River Wildlife Sanctuary, T o p sfi e l d ,7 2 -7 5 Lake Dennison Recreation Area. Winchendon, 44-45 Nickerson State Park, Brewster, ll2-ll4 Tully Lake Recreation Area, Baldwinville, 43-44 Walden Pond State Reservation, Concord, 5 8 -6 3 Whitewater rafting, Mohawk Trail, 29

CAMPING and LODGING Bascom Lodge, l.anesborough, 17, 22 Bash Bish Falls, Mount Washington,4-7 Boston Harbor Islands State Park, Hingham, 82-84 Cape Cod National Seashore, South Wellfleet, 97 Innermost House at Ipswich River Wildlife Sanctuary,Topsfield, 74-7 5 Mohawk Trail.29 Mount Greylock State Reservation, Lanesborough, 16-22

r28

Nickerson State Park, Brewster, ll2-ll4 Otter River State Forest, Winchendon, 44-45 Perkins Island at Ipswich River Wildlife Sanctuary,Topsfield, 7 4-7 5 Pittsfield State Forest, Pittsfield, 14-16 Sage'sRavine, Mount Washington,l-3 Sperry Campground, Lanesborough, 17, 22 Tully Lake RecreationArea, Baldwinville, 43-44 Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, W ellfleet. I 16, I l 8- 120 Windsor Jambs, Windsor, 24-26 CANOEING. See BOATING, CANOEING and RAFTING CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING. SeeSKUNG

DOWNHILL

SKIING. See SKIING

FISHING Bash Bish Falls, Mount Washington,4-'l Blue Hills Reservation, Milton, 90-93 Boston Harbor Islands State Park, Hingham, 82-84 Cape Cod National Seashore, South Wellfleet, 105-106 Chesterfield Gorge, West Cummington, 26-27 Clarksburg State Park, Clarksburg, 24 Douglas State Forest, Douglas, 52-54 Great Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, Sudbury, 63-65 Lake Dennison Recreation Area, Winchendon, 44-45 Middlesex Fells Reservation, Stoneham, 75- 77 Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge, Chatham. I 14-l 18 Nickerson State Park, Brewster, ll2-ll4 Parker River National Wildlife Refuge, Newburyport, 69-72 Pittsfield State Forest. Pittsfield, 14-16 Tully Lake Recreation Area, Baldwinville, 43-44 Walden Pond State Reservation, Concord, 58-63 Windsor Jambs, Windsor, 24-26 FORESTS and GARDENS Arnold Arboretum, Jamaica Plain, 87-88, 89-90

Index

Asumet Holly and Wildlife Sanctuary, North Falmouth, I l0- I 12 Bartholomew'sCobble, Ashley Falls, 7-ll Boston Common and Public Garden, Boston, 85-87, 89-90 Bridge of Flowers, ShelburneFalls, 27-29 Cape Cod National Seashore, South Wellfleet. 102-104. 106-108 Clarksburg State Forest, Clarksburg, 24 Douglas State Forest, Douglas, 52-54 Garden in the Woods, Framingham, 66-69 Harvard Forest. Petersham.4l-42 Lowell Holly Reservations,Mashpee, I 12 Middlesex Fells Reservation, Stoneham, 75-77 Mount Greylock State Reservation, Lanesborough, 16-22 Otter River State Forest, Winchendon, 44-45 Pinsfield State Forest, Pittsfield, 14-16 Tower Hill Botanic Garden, Boylston, 47-50 WachusettMountain State Reservation. Princeton, 45-46

GORGES and JAMBS. See MOUNTAINS. GORGES and JAMBS

HIKING. See also WALKING A p p a l a ch i a nT ra i l , l -3 , 1 7 , 1 9,20,22,24 Bartholomew's Cobble, Ashley Falls, 7-ll Bash Bish Falls, Mount Washington,4-7 Blackstone River and Canal Heritage State Park, Uxbridge, 54-56 Blue Hills Reservation, Milton. 90-93 Clarksburg State Forest, Clarksburg, 24 Doane's Falls. Leominster, 43-M Douglas State Forest, Douglas, 52-54 Great Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, Sudbury, 63-65 Holyoke Range State Park, Amherst, 34-36 Ice Glen, Stockbridge, 13-14 Ipswich River Wildlife Sanctuary, Topsfield,72-75 Lake Dennison Recreation Area, Winchendon, 44-45 Middlesex Fells Reservation, Stoneham, 75-77 Mohawk Trail,29 Monument Mountain, Stockbridge, ll-12 Mount Greylock State Reservation, Lanesborough, 16-22 Nickerson State Park, Brewster, ll2-ll4 Northfield Mountain Recreation and Environmental Center, Northfield, 29-31 Notchview State Reservation. Windsor. 26

129

Otter River State Forest, Winchendon, 44-45 Parker River National Wildlife Refuge, Newburyport, 69-72 Pittsfield State Forest, Pittsfield, 14-16 Purgatory Chasm State Reservation, Sutton, 50-52 Quabbin Reservoir Park and Reservation, Belchertown. 37-40 Sage'sRavine, Mount Washington, l-3 Wachusett Meadow Wildlife Sanctuary, Princeton,4T Wachusett Mountain State Reservation. Princeton. 45-46 Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, W ellfleet, ll6, ll8- 120 Windsor Jambs, Windsor, 24-26 World's End Reservation, Canton, 93-95 HISTORIC SITES and MUSEUMS Colonel John Ashley House, Ashley Falls, ll Blackstone River and Canal Heritage State Park, Uxbridge, 54-56 Blue Hills Trailside Museum, Milton, 91, 92-93 Boston Harbor Islands State Park. Hingham, 82-84 Cape Cod Museum of Natural Br ewster . I16. I 1 7- l l 8 Cape Cod National Seashore, South Wellfleet, 96, lO2-104, 109 Fisher Museum, Petersham,4l-42 Natural Bridge State Park, North Adams, 22-24 Old Harbor Life Saving Museum, Race Point Beach, 109 Pilgrim Monument, Provincetown, I l0 Quincy Quarries Historic Site, Quincy, 92. 93 Walden Pond State Reservation, Concord, 58-63 War Veterans Memorial Tower. Lanesborough, 17,21 Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, W ellfleet, l16, l1 8* 120 HORSEBACK RIDING Blue Hills Reservation, Milton, 90-93 Cape Cod National Seashore, South Wellfleet, 96-110, 109 Douglas State Forest, Douglas, 52-54 Holyoke Range State Park, Amherst, 34-36 Middlesex Fells Reservation, Stoneham, 75-77 Nickerson State Park, Brewster, ll2-ll4 Northfield Mountain Recreation and Environmental Center, Northfield,

29-3r Pittsfield State Forest, Pittsfield, 14-16

130 Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

HUNTING Cape Cod National Seashore,South Wellfleet. 96 Clarksburg State Forest. Clarksburg. 24 Douglas State Forest. Douglas. 52-54 Lake Dennison RecreationArea. Winchendon. 44-45 Mount Greylock State Reservation. Lanesborough, 16-22 Parker River National Wildlife Refuge, Newburyport, 69-72 Purgatory Chasm State Reservation, Sutton. 50-52 Tully Lake RecreationArea, Baldwinville. 43-44 Wi n d so r Ja mb s.Wi n dsor . 24- 26

INFORMATION SOURCES Appalachian Mountain Club, Boston. 3. 22. t26 Bay State Cruises. Boston. 84 Boston Harbor Cruises. Boston. 84 Boston Parks and Recreation Department, Boston. 90 Cape Cod National Seashore.South Wellfleet , 126 C o mmo n S h o re B i rd s. ll7 Commonwealth Zoological Corporation. Boston, 90 Eagle Watching, 40 Franklin County Chamber of Commerce. Greenfield,29 Friends of Middlesex Reservations. A rl i n g to n . 7 7 Glacial Landscape.6l-62 Holyoke Water Power Company. Holyoke, 34 Laurel Hill Association, Stockbridge, 14 MassachusettsAudubon Society,Lincoln. t26 MassachusettsBay Line, Boston, 84 MassachusettsDepartment of Environmental Management.Boston, t27 Metropolitan District Commission. Boston, 40, 127 Mount WashingtonState Forest, Mount Washington, 7 New England Wild Flower Society, Framingham, 69 October State Forest, Lee, 16 Pittsfield State Forest, Pittsfield. 7. 16 Province Lands Visitor Center, P ro vi n ce to wn . I l 0 Skinner State Park, Hadley, 35, 36 SteamshipAuthority, Woods Hole, 109-l l0 T ru ste e so f R e se rva tions.Bever ly, ll, 12. 2 6 . 2 7 . 9 5 . r2 7

U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Hadley, t27 Windsor StateForest. Windsor. 26 INTERPRETIVE PROGRAMS Arnold Arboretum. JamaicaPlain, 87-88. 89-90 Asumet Holly and Wildlife Sanctuary. North Falmouth. I l0-l l2 Bartholomew'sCobble, Ashley Falls. 7-ll Blackstone River and Canal Heritage State Park. Uxbridge. 54-56 Blue Hills Reservation,Milton, 90-93 Boston Harbor Islands State Park, Hingha m . 82- 84 The Butterfly Place at Papillon Park. Westford. 56-58 Cape Cod Museum of Natural History, B r e w s t e r .I 1 6 . I l 7 * l l 8 Cape Cod National Seashore,South Wellfleet. 99,lO2-103, 106, 108 ConnecticutRiver Fishways, Holyoke and Turner's Falls. 32-34 Discoven'harbor tours, Boston, 79, 8l Garden in the Woods, Framingham. 66-69 Holyoke Range State Park, Amherst, 34-36 Ipswich River Wildlife Sanctuary, Topsfiel d,72- 75 Lake Dennison Recreation Area. Winchendon. 44-45 Middlesex Fells Reservation,Stoneham. 75- 77 Mount Greylock State Reservation, Lanesborough, 16-22 Nickerson State Park. Brewster, ll2-ll4 Northfield Mountain Recreationand Environmental Center, Northfield, 29-31 Tower Hill Botanic Garden, Boylston. 47*50 Walden Pond State Reservation, Concord. 58- 63 Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, W e l l f l e e t .l l 6 . l l 8 - 1 2 0

LODGING. SeeCAMPING and LODCING

MOUNTAIN BIKING. SEEBICYCLING MOUNTAINS. GORGES and JAMBS Asumet Holly and Wildlife Sanctuary. North Falmouth. I l0-l l2 Bash Bish Falls. Mount Washington,4-7 BlackstoneGorge. Slatersville, Rhode Island, 56 Cape Cod National Seashore,South Wellfleet. 97 Chesterfield Gorge, West Cummington, 26-27

Index

Clarksburg State Park, Clarksburg, 24 Doane'sFalls, Leominster, 43-44 Glacial Potholes, Shelburne Falls. 27-29 Holyoke Range State Park, Amherst, 34-36 Ice Glen, Stockbridge, 13-14 Monument Mountain, Stockbridge, ll-12 Mount Greylock State Reservation, Lanesborough, 16-22 Natural Bridge State Park, North Adams, 22-24 Nickerson State Park, Brewster, ll2-ll4 Northfield Mountain Recreation and Environmental Center, Northfield, 29-31 Purgatory Chasm State Reservation, Sutton, 50-52 Quabbin Reservoir Park and Reservation, Belchertown, 37-40 Quinnetukut II, Northfiel d, 29-31 Sage'sRavine, Mount Washington, l-3 Walden Pond State Reservation, Concord, 58-63 Windsor Jambs, Windsor, 24-26 World's End Reservation, Canton, 93-95 MUSEUMS. See HISTORIC SITES and M U S E U MS

PICNIC SITES Bartholomew'sCobble, Ashley Falls, 7-ll BlackstoneRiver and Canal Heritage State Park, Uxbridge, 54-56 Blue Hills Reservation,Milton, 90-93 Cape Cod National Seashore,South Wellfleet. 97 Chesterfield Gorge, West Cummington, 26-27 Clarksburg State Park, Clarksburg, 24 Doane'sFalls, Leominster, 43-44 Douglas State Forest, Douglas, 52-54 Holyoke Range State Park, Amherst, 34-36 Ice Glen, Stockbridge, 13-14 Lake Dennison Recreation Area, Winchendon. 44-45 Middlesex Fells Reservation, Stoneham. 75-77 Mohawk Trail,29 Monument Mountain, Stockbridge, ll-12 Mount Greylock State Reservation, Lanesborough, 16-22 Natural Bridge State Park, North Adams, 22-24 Nickerson State Park, Brewster, ll2-ll4 Northfield Mountain Recreation and Environmental Center, Northfield, 29-31 Pittsfield State Forest. Pittsfield. 14-16

131

Purgatory Chasm State Reservation, Sutton, 50-52 Quabbin Reservoir Park and Reservation, Belchertown. 37-40 Wachusett Mountain State Reservation. Princeton, 45-46 Walden Pond State Reservation,Concord, 58- 63 Windsor Jambs. Windsor. 24-26

RAFTING. See BOATING. CANOEING and RAFTING ROCK CLIMBING Bash Bish Falls, Mount Washington,4-'l Blue Hills Reservation, Milton, 90-93 Quincy Quarries Historic Site, Quincy, 92. 93

SKIING Bartholomew'sCobble, Ashley Falls, 7-ll Bash Bish Falls, Mount Washington, 4-7 Blue Hills Reservation, Milton, 90-93 Clarksburg State Forest, ClarksburE, 24 Douglas State Forest, Douglas, 52-54 Great Meadows National Wildlife Refuge,

Sudbury,63-65 HolyokeRangeStatePark,Amherst, 34-36 Lake DennisonRecreation Area, Winchendon.44-45 Middlesex Fells Reservation, Stoneham, 75- 77 Mount Greylock State Reservation, Lanesborough, 16-22 Nickerson State Park, Brewster, Il2-ll4 Northfield Mountain Recreation and Environmental Center, Northfield, 29-31 Notchview State Reservation, Windsor, 26 Pittsfield State Forest, Pittsfield, 14-16 Purgatory Chasm State Reservation, Sutton. 50-52 William F. Rodgers ski slopes,Milton, 9l Wachusett Mountain ski area. Princeton. 46, 47 Wachusett Mountain State Reservation. Princeton, 45-46 Walden Pond State Reservation. Concord. 58-63 Windsor Jambs, Windsor, 24-26 SNOWMOBILING Bash Bish Falls, Mount Washington,4-7 Clarksburg State Forest, Clarksburg, 24 Douglas State Forest, Douglas, 52-54 Lake Dennison Recreation Area. Winchendon, 44-45 Mount Greylock State Reservation, Lanesborough, 16-22

t32

Natural Wondersof Massachusetts

P i ttsl i cl d S ta tc F o rcst, Pittslteld.l4- 16 T u l l y L a kc Rccrca tionAr ca. Baldwinville. 43-44 WachuscttMountain StateRescrvatitln. P ri n ce to n . 4 5 -4 6 Windsor Janrbs.Windsor. 24-26 SN OWS H OE ING B a sh B i sh F a l l s. Mo unt Washington.4- 7 B l u e Hi l l s R e se rva tion.M ilton. 90- 93 Douglas State Forest, Douglas, 52-54 Holyokc Range State Park, Amherst. 3 4 -3 6 Lakc Dennison RecreationArea. Winchend
WALKING. Seea/.ro HIKING Arnold Arboretum, JamaicaPlain, 87-88, 89-90 Asumet Holly and Wildlife Sanctuary, N o rth F a l mo u th , l l0- l l2 Boston Common and Public Garden, Boston, 85-87, 89-90 Boston Harbor Islands State Park, Hingham , 82-84 Bridge of Flowers, ShelburneFalls, 27 -29

Cape Cod National Seashore.South Wellfleet, 100-102 ChesterfieldGorge, West Cummington, 26- 27 Garden in the Woods, Framingham, 66-69 GfacialPo thol es ,Shel bur neF al l s , 27- 29 , - 42 Har var d F or es t.Peter s ham4l Lake Dennison Recreation Area, Winchendon. 44-45 , as hpee,l l 2 Lowell Ho l l y R es er v ati onsM Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge, C h a t h a m .l l 4 - l l 8 Tower Hill Botanic Garden, Boylston. 47 -50 Walden Pond State Reservation, Concord, 58- 63 WILDLIFE WATCHING Asumet Holly and Wildlife Sanctuary, Nor th F al m outh. I l 0- l l 2 Bar tholom ew 'sC obbl e, As hl ey F al l s , 7- l l The Butterfly Place at Papillon Park, Westford. 56-58 Cape Cod Museum of Natural History, B r e w s t e r .l 1 6 , l 1 7 - l l 8 Cape Cod National Seashore,South Wellfleet,102- 104 Capt. John Boats, Plymouth, 123 ConnecticutRiver Fishways, Holyoke and Turner's Falls, 32-34 Dolphin Fleet, Provincetown, l2O-123 Franklin Park Zoo. Boston. 88-90 Great Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, Sudbury,63-65 Ipswich River Wildlife Sanctuary, Topsfiel d,72- 75 Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge, C h a t h a m ,l l 4 - l l 8 Mount Greylock StateReservation, Lanesborough, 16-22 New England Aquarium, Boston, 78-81 Northfield Mountain Recreationand Environmental Center, Northfield, 29-31 Parker River National Wildlife Refuge, Newburyport, 69-72 Provincetown Whale Watch, Provincetown. 123 Quabbin Reservoir Park and Reservation, Belchertown, 37-40 Quinnetukut II, Northfield, 29-31 Walter J. Stone Memorial Zoo, Stoneham, 77 -78 WachusettMeadow Wildlife Sanctuary, Princeton, 47 Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, W e l l f l e e t .l l 6 . l l 8 - 1 2 0