w OOKING A TEXfBOOK OF CULINARY FUNDAMENTALS SECOND EDITION ~
SARAH R. LABENSKY AIm M. HAUSE WITH STEVEN LABENSKY PHOTDGRAPHS BY RICHARD EMBERY DRAWINGS BY S7itCEY WINTERS QUAJTRONE
PREN77CE HAlL,
UPPER
SADDLE RrlER, NEW JERSEY 07458
Ubrary o rCongrcss Cataloging-In-Publication Data
LaOC"flSky. Sarah R.
or
On cooking, a textbook culinary fundamentals I $amh R. ubensky. Abn M. Hause; phologr:J.phs by Richard Embery; dr.lwings by SI:.ct")' \t"intl.'fll Quanrooe. -2nd t'CI. p. o n.
Include'i bibliogr.lrmic:il references and index. ISBN 0-13-862640-5 L Cookl.'f}'.
I. Hause. Alan M.
II. Title.
TX651.[j2 1999 M I.S-OC2 1
98-17965 CIP
ACqllisitiOIlS editor: Neil Marquardt EdiIOritll/pr()(/lIcllolI slIfJ(:lvislolI: Barbara Marttine Cappuccio Mtll/agillg edllol:' j\'!:lry Carnis Director ojprodllclioll alld /)/(lIlIIj(lClllrillg: BnJce Johnson MtllIIIJ(lClllrillg bllyer: Ed O"Dougherty Devefopmelll edilor: Judith C:lsillo Marketillg /lulI/ager: Frank f.·lonimer. Jr. Editorial assis/(lIIt: Jean Auman Cretllive director: Marianne FI"'JSCO Illterior design: I':lura C. lemrdi Cot'CI'desigll: Ruta K. Fiorino C()lJ('I' pbOlogmpb: StockFoodIEising Al/(/jriollo/ drawlllgs: William Ingram
Photo Cre(liIs:
Portrait of Fannie Farmcr---counes), of The Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe College Portrait of Auguste Escoffier---courtesy of Musec de l'An Culinaire, ViJleneU\'e-loubet (Village) France PonrailS of Alexis Soyer and Antonin Careme---courtesy of Bam.1ra Wheaton Drawing of the Reform Club's Kitchen---courtesy of the Reform Club, london. England 0 [999, [995 by Prentice-Hall, Inc. Simon & Schuster / A Viacom Company Upper Saddle Hiver, New Jersey 07458
All righlS reserved. No pan of this book may be reproduced, in any form or by any means, without pcmlission in writing from the publisher. Printed in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 ISB N 0 - 13-8626 40 -5 Prentice-Hall International (UK) Limited, wlldoll Prentice-Hall of Austmlia Pty. Limited. S)'tilley Prentice-Hall Canada Inc., Torollro Prentice-Hall Hispanoamcricana, S.A., Jllexico Prentice-Hall of India Private Limited. New Delhi Prentice-I--Iall of Japan, Inc. , 1okyo Simon & Schuster Asia Pte. lId., Sillgapore Editor:l Prentice-Hall do Brasil, Ltda. , Rio de janeiro
ONTENTS PART 2 oN-, f?}JREPARA770N 75
PART 1 oN-, r?JJROFESSfONALlSM 1
CHAn'ER 5
CHAPTER 1 PROFESSIONAlJSM
TOOLS AND EOu/PAIENI'
2
CHAPTER 2 FOOD SAFElY AND SANfFA170N
CHAPTER
CHAPTER 6 KNIFE SKIUS
18
3
Nl!f'RfI10N
76
104
CHAPTER 7 36
CHAPTER 4 RECIPES AND MENUS
58
KrrcHEN STAPLES
118
CHAPTER 8 DAIRY PRODUCTS
146
iii
iv
CONrENTS
PARTj {f}OKfNC
CHAPTER 14
165
VEIL
312
CHAPTER 9 PRINCIPLES OF COOKING
166
CHAfYl'ER 15 LAMB
334
CHAPTER 10 Sma:; AND SAUCFS
178
CHAP7ER 16 PORK
CHAPTER 11 Soups 230
••
358
o CHAPTER 17 376
POULTRY
CHAfYl'ER 12 PRINCIPLES OF MFAT COOKERY
CHAPTER 13 BEEF
292
CHAfYl'ER 18 262
CAME
430
CHAPIER 19 FISH AND SHELLFISH 454
CUNrEN1S
CHAPTER 20
EGGS
534
CHAI'TER
21 558
DEEP-FRl1NG
CHAPTER 22 VEGETABLES
CIlAP7'ER
25
CHAPTER
26
572
CHAI'TER
760
27
CHARClffERIE
23
786
28
HORS D'OEUVRE AND CANAPEs
828
PART5 b> f?{3AKlNG 861
679
CHAPTER 29 PRINCIPLES OF
24
SAwJs AND SAwJ DRESSINGS
718
SANDWICHES
CIlAP7ER
PO'IJlTOES, GRAINS AND PASTA 632
CHAPTER
CHAPTER FRUns
680
THE BAKESHOP
862
~
v
vi
~
CIIAPTER I
PART 6 .n-, f?}JRESENfA770N 1081
CIlA?f'ER 30 QUICK BRFADS
CIlA?f'ER
886
31
Y£4l7' BRFADS
CIlA?f'ER 32 PIES, PASTRIES AND COOKIES
CIlA?f'ER 35 PlATE PRESENTA710N
1082
CIlA?f'ER 36 BUFFJ!F PRESENTA710N
1096
906
940
CHAfYl'ER 33 CAKES AND FROS71NGS 994
CIlA?f'ER 34 CUSTARDS, CREAMS, FROZEN DESSER7S AND SAUCES 1038
,4pPFJlDIX I qlJROFESSIONAL ORGANllA710NS
1113
ApPFJlDIX II vltflASUREIofENT AND CONVERSION CHAR7S
1115
fJ3IBUOGRAPHY AND RECOMMFJlDED READING
1117
-§iOSSARY
PIDEX
1121
1137
REFACE learning to cook is much morc than simpl}' learning to follow a recipe. Consequently, this is not a cookbook or a collection of recipes. It is:1 carefull}, designed text intended to teach yOll the fundamentals of the culinary arts and to prep:lre you for a rewarding career in the food service industry. Many chapters have extensive illustrated seaions identifying foods and equipment. Througholll the book. we emphasize culinary principles, not recipes (although we include more than 7;0 of them). Whenever possible, we focus on the general procedure highlighting fundamenta l principles and skills whether it be for preparing a yeast bread or grilling a piece of fish. We discuss boIh the how and why of cooking. Only then are specific applications and sample recipes gi\'en. Numerous hotel and restaurant chefs throughout lhe country have contributed recipes to this book, usually accompanied by photographs of the dishes as prepared in their kitchens. These recipes and illustrations allow you to explore different techniques and presentation styles. [n order to provide you with a sense of the rich traditions of cookery, informative sidebars on food history, chef biographies and other topics are scaltered throughout the book. Also included are several shan essays written by prominenl culinarians on topics ranging from tempering chocolate to 1:lsling spicy foods. We wish rou much success in your culinary career and hope Ihal this text will continue to inform and inspire rou long after graduation.
A NOTE ON RECIPE)
.n-,
Recipes are imponant and useful as a means of standardizing food preparation and recording information. We include recipes that are primarily designed to reinforce and explain techniques and procedures presented in the text. Man}' recipe yields are intentionally low in order to be less intimid'uing to beginning cooks and more useful in small schools and kitchens. All ingredients are listed in both U.S. and metric measurements. TIle metric equiva lents arc rounded off to cven, easily measured amounts. So, you should consider these ingredient lists as scpar:uc recipes or formula s; do not measure some ingredients according to the metric ilmounts and othcr ingredients according to the U.S. amount or the proponio ns will not be accurate and the intended result will not be achieved. Throughout this book, unless othenvise noted: • mirepoL\' refers to a preparation of 2 parts onion, 1 pan celery and 1 pan
carrot by weight • pepper refers to ground black pepper, pre ferably freshly ground
vii
viii
PRF,FACE • bl/lter refers to whole, unsalted butter • milk refers to whole or reduced fat (not nonfat) milk, and
• IT means "to t:lste" A nutritional analysis is provided with e:lch re<:ipe. TIlis information is pra. vided as a reference only. There is a 200f. margin of error, due prim:lril)' to choices for specific ingredients and variations in the size of fruits and vegetables. When a recipe offers a choice of ingredients, the first-men tioned ingredient was the one used in the calculations. Ingredients listed as "to taste" (IT) and "as needed" were genef'dlly omitted from the an:llysis. [n addition, olive oil and 3% whole milk were used throughout for "vegellible oil" and " milk ,~ respectively. When given a choice of serving or weight , the first mentioned was used. Recipes marked with the pyramid symbol are particularly low in calOries, fat , saturated fat and/or sodiulll; some may also be a good source of vitamins, protein, fiber or calcium. These dishes are not necessarily dietetic, however. Rather, they should be consumed as part of a well-balanced diet. Detailed procedures for standard techniques are presented in the text and generally are not repeated in each reCipe (for example, "deglaze the pan" or "manter au beurre"). No mailer how detailed the written recipe, however, we must assume that you have cert:lin knowledge, skills and judgment. Variations appear at the end of selected recipes. nlese give you the opportunity to see how one set of techniques or procedures ca n be used to prepare different dishes with only minor modifications. You should also rely upon the knowledge and skills of your instructor for guidance. Although sollle skills and an understanding of theory can be acquired through reading and study, no book can substitute for repeated, handson preparalion and observation.
ACKNOWLEDGMEN7S This book \"ould not have been possible without the assistance and support of many people, We are p:lrticul:trly indebted to Ste\'e Labenksy for his countless hours with :l sh:lrp pencil, his comments and criticism and his conStaOl support. Speci:d thanks to our photographer. Richard Embery, for his "dent, professionalism and commitment to quality and to Sharon Salomon, MS, RD, for preparation of the Nutrition chapter. TIle nutritional analysis for thiS edition W:lS prepared by W'ilIiam Miller, whose thoroughness is appreciated. 11lanks also to Kme Nelson. Dominic O'Neil, Lcl:lnd Atkinson, Erich Wagner, James DuVal and Rich:lrd Mal1inez, and to Stacey Wlinters Quaurone and William E. Ingr.llll for their :ll1iSII)'. We are also grateful to the many chefs, restaurateurs, writers and culinary professionals who provided re<:ipes and essays for this Ix>ok. Finally. Alan is especi:IUy grateful to his wife Chantal Hause for her support, helpfulness, lo\'e and p.1lience. TIle authors wish to thank the following compallies for their generalis da. nations of equipment and supplies: J,A. Henckels Zwillingswerk, Inc., AII-Cbd r-,·Ietalcr.lfters, Inc. and P:mish's Cake Decof'Jling Supplies, Inc. \'(Ie also wish to th:lOk Shamrock Foods Comp:lIly, Easl Coast Se:lflXXl of Phoenix Inc. , KitchenAid Home Appliallces, T:lylor Environmental Instruments, Hobart Corporation, Jeff and Sue Reising of Arizona Ostrich Fillet, WiIli:lms-Sonoma, :Ifchilect Mich:lel Apostolos, and Rand)' Dougheny of ISF Intern:llion:ll.
PREFACE Finally, we wish to thank everyone involved in this project at Prentice Hall , induding Neil i\larquardt, Acquisitions Editor; Barbara Cappuccio, Produaion Editor; Judith Casillo, De\'elopment Editor: Marianne Frasco, Creative Director: Mary Carnis. Managing Editor; Ed O'Doughcny, ProcIuaion Coordinator; L1ura Icrnrdi, Designer: Rut:! K. Fiorino, Director of Ad\'enising, and Frank l\lonimer, Jr., Marketing Manger. \'(Ie also remain indebted to Robin l3aliszewski, AC
ix
P ART ONE
ROFESSIONALISM
--._----
,
ChefS must be able to do more than properly prepare and present foods. They must understand traditions and
factors influencing change. They are responsible for making sure that the food served is wholesome and safe to eal and that they and those around d,em work in a safe and efficient manner. Further, chefs must make sure that the foods th.ey serve are nutritious, or a, least they should offer their customers sufficient selections so that the customers can construct a nutritiolls meal. And) finally,
chefs are responsible for writing menus and producing food in a consistent and cost-effective manner. Part I opens with a chapter on professionalism. It traces the history of chefs and restaurants, discusses the modern food service operation and factors influencing its development and explains what attributes a sUident chef must have to become a professional chef. The following chapters address food safety and sanitation, nutrition and menus and recipes.
•
• •
.,.~~ ~
ROFESSIONALISM
"CooJ.'ery is becollle all m1, a lIoble
sciellce; cooks are gen/lemell. -Roben Bunon, British author, 1621 IJ
= = = '""'P'> = = After studying this chapter, you will
be able ~
\0:
discuss the development of the
modern food service industry ~
name key historical figures responsible for developing food
service professionalism <"'0..
explain the organization of classic and modern kitchen
brigades c"'\!\..
appreciate the role of the pro-
fessional chef in modern food service operations ("\!\.
understand the anributes a student chef needs to become a
ubstitute ''professi01lals ''for ''gellllemell,'' and BUl10n's words are as true today as they were almost fOllr hundred years ago. Lil..>e the fine C/11S, great cookelY req1lires taste and creativity, an appreciation of beauty CI11C1 a mastety of technique. Like the sciences, SllCcessful cookelY demal/ds knowledge and an ul1derstandil1g of basic pn·uciples. And like the ''gentlemen ,. of BIl/10n 's days, today's professional chefs must exercise sou.nd judgment and be committed to achieving excellellce in their elldeavors. This books helps implement BUlton ~ philosophy. It describes foods and cooking equipmew, explains culinary principles and cooking techniques al1d provides recipes using these principles and techniques. This book Call 11ot, howevel; provide taste, creativity, commitment and judgment. For these, we re(y 011 you.
professional chef
CHEFS AND RESTAURANfS .n-, Cooking-(IJ tbe transfer of energy from a beal SOlirce 10 (j food; Ihis energy a/lers (be foods molec/llar slrllc/llre, dXlIIgillg its lex/lire, jlnror, arollla alld appeartlllce; (2) the preparatkm of foodfor WI/slimp/ion. Cookery- the art, pmc/ice or work oj CIJOkillg. Professiooal cooklng---.'J s)'s/el1l 0/ cookillg /)(001 011 (JlmOlt/edge 0/ IIlId apprednlwn for
ingrnlil'llts (llIti procedures.
Cooks have produced food in quantity for as long as people have eaten together. For millennia, chefs have catered to the often elaborate dining needs of the wealthy and powerful , whether they be Asian, Native American, European or African. And for centuries, vendors in China, Europe and elsewhere have sold to the public foods that they prepared themselves or bought from others. But the history of the professional chef is of relatively recent origin. Its cast is mostly French, and it is intenwined with the history of restaurants. For only with the development of reStaurants during the late 18th and early 19th centuries were chefs expected to produce, efficiently and economically, different dishes at different times for different diners.
The 18tiJ Century- Boulanger's Restaurant The word res/all/"(mt is derived from the French word res/c/llrer (to restore). Since the 16th century, the word restorative had been used to describe rich and highly flavored soups or stews capable of restoring lost slrength. Restoratives, like aJ1 other cooked foods offered and purchased outside the home, were made by guild members. Each guild had a monopoly on prep:lring cert<1in food items. For example, during the reign of Henri IV of France (1553- 1610), there were separate guilds for ro/issellrs (who cooked la grosse viclllde, ihe main cuts of meat), palissiers (who cooked poultry, pies and tarts), /amisiers (who baked breads), 11illC/igriers (who made sauces and some stews, including some restoratives), traitellrs (who made rdgouts) and porte-chapes (caterers who organized feasts and celebrations). TIle French claim that the first modern restaurant opened one day in 1765 when a Parisian tavemkeeper, a Monsieur Boulanger, hung a sign advertising the sale of his special restorative, a dish of sheep feet in white sauce. His es-
PROFESSIONAliSM
r""'\!I..,
5
tablishment closed shortly thereltfter as the result of a lawsuit brought by a guild whose members claimed tllat Boulanger was infringing on their exclusive right to sell prepared dishes. Boulanger triumphed in court and later reopened. Boulanger's establishment differed from the inns and taverns that had existed throughout Europe for centuries. These inns and taverns served foods prep:ued (usually off premises) by the appropriate guild. The food-of wllich there was little choice-was offered by the keeper as incidental to the establishment's primary function: providing sleeping accommodations or drink. Customers were served family style and ate at communal tables. Boulanger's contribution to the food service industry was to serve a variety of foods prepared on premises to customcrs whose primary interest was dining. Several other restllUrants opened in Paris during the succeeding decades, including the Grande Tavcrne de Londres in 1782. Its owner, Antoine BeauvilIiers (1754- 18 17), was the former steward to the Comte de Provence, later King Louis XVIII of France. He advanced the development of the modem restaurant by offering his wealthy patrons a menu listing available dishes during fixed hours. Ueauvilliers's impeccably trained wait staff served patrons at small, individual tables in an elegant setting. TIle French Revolution (1789-1799) had a significant effect on the budding restaurant industry. Along with the aristocracy, guilds and their monopolies were generally abolished. The revolution also allowed the public access to the skills and creativity of the well-tr".. ined, sophisticated chefs who had worked in the aristocracy's private kitchens. Although many of the aristocracy's chefs either left the country or lost tileir jobs (and, some, their heads), a few opened restaurants catering to the growing urbanized middle class.
The Early 19tb CenturyCal'eme and Grande Cuisine As the 19th century progrcsscd, more rcstaurants opened, serving a greatcr se-
lection of items and catering to a widcr clientele. By midcentury, sever.. l large, grand restaurants in Paris were serving elaborate meals, decidedly reminiscent of the grande cuisine (also known ;IS halite cuisine) of the ariStOC~Kl' Gratule cllis;,w , which arguably rcached its peak of perfection in the hands of Antonin Careme, was characterizcd by meals consisting of dozens of courses of elabor:.l1cly and intricately prepared, presented, garnished and sauced foods . Olhcr restauratcurs blended the techniques and styles of grell/de clI isille with the simpler foods :Ind lastes of the middle class (cuisine bollrgeoisie) to create a new cuisine simpler Ihan grande Cllisine but more than mere home cooking.
Gr.lIIde cuisioe---lhe rich, in/rim/I! (llId eltil»ra/I! cuisinl! oj lhe 18th· Ill1ti 191h-amlury Prellch aristocracy (llId upper classes. /I if /x1Sl!f/0I1 /be mtwlI(11 ifielllijim/if.m, dl'l'tlcplllf!1ll (lnd (I(/opIWII oj sIricI culinary principles. Byem{lhasizillglhe hau! (III(/ why of rooki//g, grtlluk Cllisilll! IImlbe firs} 10 r/isJillgllisb itmffrom regiOn(/1 cuisines, did) l('Iu/ /() tll/pbasi=e tbe /rat/ilioll of oookillg.
71Je Late 19tb CenturyEscoffier and Cuisine Classique Following the leltd set by the French in bo{h culinary style and the restaurant busincss, restaur:lOts opened in the United States and throughout Europe during the 19th century. Charles Ranhofer (18.36-18<)9) was thc first internationally renowned chcf of an American restaurant, Delmonico's in New York City. In 1893, Ranhofer published his "fmnca-american" encyclopedia of cooking, 71)e Epicurean. containing more than 3500 recipes.
Classic cuisiJlc-(1 klle 19th- {//uf ffirly 2Ofhcet/lury refillemellllllllf simplifimfioll if Frellch gr(//u/e CIlis/III!. OtISSic (or classimlj cuisine relies olilbe lborough txp/ortllioll if mlil/a'} prillciples (/lUlledmKIIi/IS, (Illd empbasizes lhe refilled prep(lf(/IWII (II/(I {Jrf'St'T1/(lOOII of superb illgr/!di•.,/Is.
6
CIIAPTER I
~
==========
JIARIE-A \TOIN (AlI,TONINj CARbtB
(1783-1833)
careme,
~n :IS the "rook 0( kin&'i and the king 0( CXXlks:' was an acknoY.1edged master of French Krtlllde cllidlle. Abandoned on the streets of Paris as a child, he worked his way from rook's helper in a working-class restaurant to become one of the mOSl prestigious chefs 0( his (or, arguably, any other) lime. During his career, he was chef to the famous French diplomat and gourmand Printe de Tal[eyrand, the Prince Regent of England (who became King Gt"'Orge IV), Tsar Alexander [of Russia and Baron de Rothschild, illnong others. llis stated goal w.tS to achie...e "lightness," "grace," "order" and "perspicuity" in the preparation and presentation of food. As a jXltissier, he designed and prepared elaborate and elegant pastry illid confectionery creations, milll}' of \\TIIch were based on architectural designs. (He wrote that "the fine arts are fil'e in number, nanlei)~ painting. sculpture, poeit}', music, architecture-the main branch of which is confectionery.") As a sho.I-man. he garnished his dishes with omanlfOtaJ hatelelS (skev."fTS) threaded with colorful ingredients such as cr:tyfish and Intricately carved \-egetable;, and presented his cre:\tions on e[abor:tte socle; (bases). As as(lIlcier, he st:mdardizul the use of roll); as a thickening agent, perfected ll'Cipes and devised a system for classifying S.1Uces. As a gmrle-mm1b'er. Carerne popularized cold cuisine, emphasizing molds and aspic dishe;. As a culinary professional, he designed kitchen toots, equipment and unifonns. As an aU~lor, he wrote and iltustr:tted impor· tant texIS on tlle culinary ans, including I.e loIailre d"bolel /r(II/CIlis (1822). describing the hundreds or
gle-handedl}' refined and summarized fill! hundred )"ea1S of culinary elululion. But his trealises were not mere cookbooks. Rather, he analyzed cooking. old and new, emphasizing procedure and order and covering f1"eT)' aspect of the art kn(}\\.11 asgrflllde cliisine. Carfune died before the age of SO, bumt out, according to Laurent Tailhade, "by the flame of his genius and the mal of the spits."' But this may have been the glory he sought, for he once wrote:
dishes he personally crealed and cooked in the capitals of Europe; I.e Pal;.mer 1'Q)YlI/XlrisitllI (J825). containing fanciful designs for ler piects monlees, the great decor:tlil"e mllerpieces that \\"ere the crowning glory of grand dinners; and his fil"e-I"lume masterpiece on the Slate of his profession, L'Arl de kI cllisine (III :(lXe siede (1833), the [asl two volume; of which were completed after his death by his associate Plumerey. Careme's writings almost sin-
Imagille yourself ill a ""ge kitchen attbe momellt oja great dinller. {Slee IU'el11J1cheft wmillg, goillg, mQlling uoith spe«1 ill this Clmldroll ojOOII, look at the great mllSS ofc1x1l"Wal, a cubic meterJor lhe cooif1l8 of etltlier, a1ld ano/ber mllSS 011 lbe at'msJor the cooking ofS()ups, SilIla'S, mgo/flS,for frying am/ the u"lIter baths. Nld to tbal (I heap of buming uood ill front ofwhicb four spiJs are luminK, one It'bieb bears (I sirloin u-eigNng 45-50 powuis, the o/herJOld or game. IlIlhisfuniace f!f"e1J'OlIe mores U'i/h spe«1,'1/0/ a sound is OOm}, ollly the cJxf!x1S a right /0 speak. alld althe soulld ofbis voice, f!f/erj'()ne obeys. Fina/~ i the W( simll';for about balf(11I hour. all U'illdou'S are dosed SO tba/the air does 110/ cooItbe dish€s as Ibey are beillg sen.'ed. 7bis is (be u'ay we spend the best years ojollr lires. If-e lIIusl obey evelllt'MI physiClII strellgth fails, bIll if is tbe bU17Iing charrotll1hat kills us. . {elixir/XXII kills us but It'lxlt does il lIIatter? tbe shorter the life, the grealer Jheglar)'.
One of the finest restaurantS outside France was the dining room at london's Savoy Hotel, opened in 1898 under the directions of Ces.1r Ritz 0850-1918) and Auguste Escoffier. Escoffier is generally crediled with refining the grallde CIIisille of Ca reme to create cllisille c/assiqlle or classic cuisine. By doing so, he brought French cuisine into the 20th century.
PRQFFJSIONAlJS.lf
~
==========
AU6USTB ESCOFFJER
(1846-1935) Esooffier's brilliant culinary career began at the age of 13 in his uncle's restaurant :lnd continued until his deadl at the age of 89, Called the ··Emperor of the wortd·s kitchens." he is perhaps best ~1l for defining French cuisine :md dining during La Befle E/XX/ue (the "Gay Nineties"), Unlike Carenle. Escoffier never worked in 311 arislocratic household. Rather. he exhibited his culinar. . skills in the dining rooms of the finest hotels In Eu~, including the Place \'endorne in Paris :Uld the Savoy and Carlton IklIels in London. f.sco{fier did much to enhance the gTill/tie OIisille that arguably reached its perfection underCareme, Crediting Careme with providing the foundation for great-that is, Frenchoooking. Escoffier simplified the profusion of HaI"OIS, dishes and garnishes I)"pi~ing eareme·s "lMlt He also streamlined some of Careme's 0I'erly elabor:ue and fussy procedures and cl3SSifications. For example. he reduced Careme·s elaborate system or classi~ing S:IUce5 into the
fil"e families of sauces still recognized today, Escomer sought simplicity and aimed for the perfect balance of a few superb ingredients. Some consider his refinement of grande cuisil/e to have been so radical as to credit him with the de-
l"'elopment or a new cuisine referred to as cuisine c!t;ssiqllc (classic or classical cuisine). His m:Ul}' writin~ include I.e liL>re des memlS (1912). in which, discussing the principles or a lI"ell-planned meal. he analogizes a great dinner to a symphony with contrasting movements tllat should be appropriate to tile OCC3Sion, the guests, and tile season, and Ma cuisine (1934), sul"\"e}ing cuisine bourgeoisie. But his most important contribution is a culinar), treatise intended for the proCessional chef entitled I.e Guide culillaire 09(3). Still in use tOOay. it is an astounding collection of more than 5CXXI cl3SSiccuisine recipes and garnishes_ In it, Escoffier emphasizes the mastery 0{ techniques, the thorough underst:uKling of cooking, principles and the apprecIation or ingredients; attributes he considered to be the building blocks proCessional chefs should use to create great dishes. Escoffier \\1lS honored as a CheI'1lier of the French Legion of Honour in 1920 for his work in enhancing tile reputation of French cuisirle.
77Je 20th Century-Point and Nouvelle Cuisine This century has witnessed a trend toward lighter, more nalUrally flavored and more simply prepared foods. Fernand Point was a master praoitioner of this mo\'ement. BlIt this master's goal of simplicity and refinement was carried to CI'en greater heights by a genemlion of chefs Point trained: principally, P:1U1 l3ocuse, Jean and Pierre Troisgros, Alain Chapel, Francois Bise and Louis
~
FJ.;RNANI} POINT
(1897-1955) Amassil"e man \\ith a monumental personality,
Point refined and modemized the classic cuisine of Escoffier. By doing so, he laid the foundations for 1/00Il'eile cuisine. l'aint recei\w his early training in some eX the finest hotel-restaurant kitchens in Paris. [n 1922, he and his f:Ullily mOl'ed to \'lenne, a city in southwest France near Lyon, and opened a restaurant. '[\1,,0 years later his father left tile restaurant to Fernand. IIflo renamed it
La pyrtlmide. During the succeeding years, it became one of the culinary wonders of the \\'Orld. Point disdained dominating sauces and distrncting accompaniments and garnishes. He belie\'l'd that exh dish should hal"e a single domin:Ult ingredient, nal'Or or theme; g;lfnishes must be simple and match "like a tie to a suit."' Pr<x:edure was of great importance. He de\'Oted equal efforts to frying an egg and
creating the marjolaine (a light almond and hazelnut spongecake filled with chocolate and praline buttercreams). His goal was to use ~le fines! of raw ingredients to produce perfect food that looked elegant and simple. But simpliCity \\'35 not ~' to achiCl'e. As he once said, '·a beamaise sauce is simply an egg }'Olk. a shallot, a lillIe tarragon linegar. and butter, but it takes )'ealS of ptJetice for ~le result to be perfect"
7
8
~~
CHAPTF.R 1
Nou\'c Ue cuisine-lt1emlly, " TII?III ~ing, ,. a mid.2Otb-mllury m()t!t1111?111 au'tlyjrom mally dassic cuisine prilldples alld IouYlrd a lighter cui· sille bastd aI/Mlural jlm'(M alld simpler prrpa. ralifms,
Outhier. They, along with Michel Guerard and Roger Verge, were the pioneers of nouvelle cuisine in the early 19705. Their culinary philosophy was principled on the rejection of overly rich, needlessly complicated dishes. These chefs emphasized healthful eating. The ingredients must be absolutely fresh and of the highest possible quality; the cooking methods should be simple and direct whenever possible. The accompaniments and garnishes mUSt be light and contribute to an overall hamlony; the completed plates mUSt be elegantly designed and decorated. Following these guidelines, some traditional cooking methods have been applied to untraditional ingredients, and ingredients have been combined in new and previously unorthodox fashions, For chefs with knowledge, skill, taste and judg· ment, this works.
INFLUENCES ON MODERN FOOD SERVICE OPERATlONS ~ From Monsieur Boulanger's humble establishment, a great industry has grown, Today, more than 700,000 public dining facil ities are in the United States alone, The dramatic growth and diversific::llion of the food service industry is due in part to the Industrial Revolution and the social and economic changes it wrought, including the introduction of new technologies, foods, concerns and consumers.
New Technologies Technology has always had a profound effect on cooking. For example, the development of day and, Ialer, metal vessels that could contain liquids and withstand as well as conduct heat offered prehistoric cooks the opportunity to stew, make soups and porridge, pickle and brine foods and control fermentation. But it was not until the rapid technological advances fostered by the Induslrial Revolution that an)'thing approaching the modern kitchen was possible. One of the most important advancements was the introduction of the cast iron stove. Prior to the 19th century, most cooking was done on spits or grills or in cauldrons or pots set on or in a wood- or coal-burning heanh. Heanh· side cooking did not lend itself well to the simultaneous preparation of many items nor to items requiring constant and delicate attention. With the introduction of cast iron stoves during the IBOOs (first wood· and coal·burning, then by midcentury, gas and by the early 20th century, electric), cooks could more comfonably and safely approach the heat source and control its temper· atures. They were also able to efficiently prepare and hold for later use or service a multitude of smaller amounts of items requiring different cooking meth· ods or ingredients, a necessity at a restaurant simultaneously catering to different diners' demands. Also of great imponance were developments in food preservation and storage techniques, For thou5.1nds of years, food had been preserved by sundrying, salting, smoking, pickling, sugar-curing or femlenting. Although useflll, these procedures destroy or distort the appearance and flavor of most foods. By the early 19th century , preserving techniques that had minimal effect on appearance and flavor began to emerge. For eX:lmple, by 1800, the Frenchman
PROFESSIONAliSM
Fran\Ois Appert successfully ~canned " foods by subjecting foods stored in sterilized glass jars 10 very high heaL An earlr mechanical refriger:uor was developed by the mid-ISOOsj soon reliable iceboxes, refrigerators and, later, freezers were available. During the 201:h century, freeze..ctrying, vacuum~packing and irradiation have become common preservation techniques. While advancements were being made in preservation and storage techniques. developments in transportation technology were also underway. During the 19th century, steam-powered ships and railroads were able to bring foods quickly to market from distant suppliers. Indeed, by the 18705, Chicago meatpackers were routinel}, suppl ying Europe with beef from the western plains. During the 20th century, temperature-controlled cargo ships, trains, trucks and airplanes all have been used as part of an integr"Jted worldwide food trdnsportation network. Combined with dependable food preservation and storage techniques, improved transportation networks have freed chefs from seasonal and geographic limitations in their choice of foods and have expanded consumers' culinary horizons. Engineering advancements also have facilitated or even eliminated much routine kitchen work. Since the start of the Industrial Revolution, chefs have come to rely increaSingly on mechanical and motorized food processors, mhers and cutters as well as a wealth of sophisticated kitchen equipment such as high-carbon stainless steel knife blades and convection steamers.
New Foods Modem food preservation, Storage and transportation techniques have made Ixxh fresh and exotic foods regularl)' available to chefs and consumers. Many of these foods are themsch'es more wholesome as the result of progress in agriculture and animal husbandry. Advancements in agriculture such as the switch from organic to chemical fertilizers and the introdudion of pesticides and drought- or pest-resistant strains h'lve resulted in incre:lsed yields of healthy crops. Traditional hybridization techniques and, more recently, genetic engineering have produced new or improved grains :md, for better or for worse, fmils and vegetables that have a longer shelf life and are more amenable to mass-production handling, storage :md transportation methods. likewise, :ldvancements in anim:.l husbandry and aquaculture have led to a more reliable supply of leaner, healthier meat, poultry and fish. Moreover, foods found tradiliol1lllly only in the wild (for example, game, wild rice and many mushrooms) are now being nised commercially and are routinely availablt:. Food preservation and processing techniques have also led to the development of prepackaged, prepared convenience foods, some of which are aduaUy quite good. After c:ueful thought and testing, today's chef can rely on some of these products. Doing so allows greater flexibiliry and more time 10 devote to OI:her preparations.
New Concerns Consumer concerns about nutrition and diet, particularly during Ihe last decade or so, have fueled changes in the food service industry. Obviously, wh:!t we e:tt affects our health. Adequate amounts of cenain nutrients promOte
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CJIAPlfR
I good health by preventing dcficiencies; good nutrition also helps prevent chronic diseases and increases longevity. Chefs should provide their customers with nutritious foods. The public has long been concerned aoout food safety. Federal, state and local governments have helped promote food safety by inspecting and grading mealS and poultl]', regulating label contents for packaged foods and setting sanitation standards. All these standards, especially sanitation standards, affect the way foods are prepared, stored and served. Concerns aoout nutrition and food safety have also resulted in renewed interest in organically grown fruits and vegetables and free+r'dnge-ra ised animals.
New Consumers Natio nal cuisine----dJe clxlrtJCltrisIic cuisil/e of a IUllie1l. Regional cuisine-tl set of recf{Ies IxJS«lu/JOlI Ioctll ingredients, Irt/flilict/S mid pmclia:s: uilbhl (I 1n'1}l'7" gt'OgI"ftpbiad. poIiIiad, cullural or sociol 1I1Ii!. rt>gioll(ll CUisilles (Ire oflm mrlilliQl/S of o1le Olio/her ibal blelllllfJgefber 10 crrule II 11(1001101
cuisille. Ethnic cuislnc-lhe cuisine of 0 grollP ojpropW bal"il/g 0 romllll)ll cullural berilage (IS f1Jpo!«Ilo the cuisille f/ 0 group ofpeople bou1Id 10gtlber by grogrtlpby or poIiliatJ jacIQrs.
Demographic and social changes have contributed to the divcrsification of the food service industl]' b}' creating or identifying new consumer groups with their own desires or needs. By tailoring their menu, prices and decor accordingly, food service operations can cater to consumers defined by age (baby boomers and seniors, in particular), type of household (singles, couples and fami lies), income, education and geography. During this century, especially in the dectdcs following World War II , there has also been a rapid increase in the number and types of institutions providing food services. These include hospitals, schools, retirement centers, hotels and resorts (which may, in turn, have fine dining, coffee shop, banquct and room service facilities), factories and office complexes. Each of these instilUtions presents the profeSSional chef with unique chalienges, whether they be culinal]', dietal]' or budgetal]'. TIlfough travel or exposure to the many books and magazines about food , consumers are becoming beller educated and more sophisticated. EduGued consumers provide a market for new foods and cuisines as well as an appreciation for a ;ob well done. Although some consumers may frequent a pan.icular restaurant because its chef or owner is a celebrity or the restaurant is riding high on a crest of fad or fashion, mOSt consumers choose a restaurant-whether it be a fast-food burger place ~r an elegant French restaurant--because it provides quality food at a cost they are willing to pay. To remain successful, then, the restaurant must carefully balance its commitment to quality with marketplace realities.
THE FOOD SERVICE OPERAJ70N Brigade--a SJ~·ll!m of staffi1lg 1/ ki!c}xm so fhal /.'fI(:h U'Orker is flSSigl/ed 1/ seI oj specifIC 1100; lbest tasks ore oftl!ll rY'it1/«I by CfJOkhtg method, ltjuipnt('111 or lbe /)pts offootis beftlg prrxJuati.
To function efficiently, a food service oper:lIion must be well organized and staffed with appropriate personnel. TIlis staff is sometimes called a brigade. Although a chef will be most familiar with the b:lck of the house or kitchen brigade, he or she should also understand how the dining room or front of the house operates. Staffing any food servicc facility ultimately depends on the type and complexity of the menu. (Types and styles of menus are discussed in Chapter 4, j\·lenus and Recipes.)
The Classic Kitchen B" igade Escoffier is credited with developing the kitchen brigade system used in large rest:llIrant kitchens. From the chaos and redundancy found in the private kitchens of the aristocracy, he created a distinct hierarchy of responsibilities and functions for commercial food service operations.
PROFF.SSIONA1JS.I,
At the tOP is the chef du CIIisille or chef, who is responsible for all kitchen oper:l!ions, developing menu items and setting the kitchen's tone and tempo. His or her princip.1l assistant is the solls-cbef (the under chef or second cheO, who is responsible for scheduling personnel and replacing the chef and station chefs as ncceSS!lTy. The sOlis-chef also often funaions as the aboyellr (expediter or announcer). who accepts the orders from the dining room, relays them to the various stmion chefs and then reviews the dishes before service. TIle chefs de IXI /1ie (station chefs) produce the menu items and are under the dif(-'CI sllpen'ision of the chef or sOlls-chej Previollsly, whenever a cook needed an item, he or his assistants produced it; thus se,'eral rooks could be making the same sauce or basic prepar:ltion. Under Escoffier's system, each station chef is assigned a specific task based on either the cooking method and equipment or the cllegory of items to be produced. TIley include: • TIle Stlllcier(salLle slation cheO, who holds one of the most demanding jobs in the kitchen. is responsible for all sauleed items and most sauces. • Thc /IOiSSOllier(fish st:ltion chef) is responsible for fish and shellfish items and their S:l.uces. l1Jis position is occaSionally combined wilh the S:l.uce st:uion. • TIle grillardill (grill station chef) is responsible for all grilled items. • 11le jrilllrier (fry station chef) is responsible for all fried items. • TIle roIissellr(roasl station chef) is responsible for all rO:lsted itcms and jlls or other related sauces. TIle grill :md fry st:nions are sometimes subsumed into the roast station. • The {XJfflger(solip stalion chef) is responsible for soups and stocks. • The legll lllier (vegetable station chef) is responsible for all veget:Lble and starch items. • The potagerand leglllllierfllnClions are often combined into a single I'Cgetable station whose chef is known as the el/tremetier. Ellfremets were the courses served :Ifter the roast :lnd usu:tlly comprised vegetables. fmits, fritters or sweel ilems (the sorbet sen'ed before the m:lin course in some contemporary restaur,lI1ts is a vestigial elltremet). • TIle garde- m(lIIger (pantry chef) is responsible for cold food preparations, including salads and salad dressings. cold appetizers, ch:trcuterie items, p
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The Modern Kitchen Brigade To(by, most food service oper.lIions use a simplified version of Escoffier's kitchen brigade. The executive chef coordinates kitchen activities and directs the kitchen staffs training and work efforts. Considering such factors as food costs, food availabiliry and popularity as well as labor costs, kitchen skills and equipment, the executive chef plans menus and creates recipes. He or she sets and enforces nutrition, safety and sanitation standards and participates in (or at least observes) the preparation and presentation of menu items to ensure that qualiry standards are rigorously and consistently maintained. He or she is also responsible for purchasing food items and, often, equipment. In some food service operations, the executive chef may assist in designing the menu, dining room and kitchen. He or she educates the dining room staff
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THE DININC Roo." like the back of the house (that is, kitchen) staff, the front of the house (that is, dining room) staff is also organized into a brigade. A traditional dining room brigade is led by the dining room manager (French moilre d1Jolei or moi1re d" who generally trains all service personnel, O'It!JSeeS wine seloctions and works \\-ith the chef 10 deo.t!lop the menu. lie or she organizes the sealing chart and may also seat the guests. Working subordinate 10 him or her are:
11le wine steward (French chef de tJin or sommelier), who is responsible for the wine service, induding purchasing wines, assisting guests in selecting wines and then serving the wines. The headwaiter (French chif de Sltlle) , who is responsible for service throughout the dining room or a section of il In smaller operations, his or her role may be assumed by the mai1re d· or a captain.
The captains (French chefs d'ftage), who are responsible for explaining the menu 10 guests and taking their orders. 11ley are also responsible for any tableside preparations. The front waiters (French chefs de rallg), 'WilD are responsible for :mlring that the tables are set properly for each OOU~, foods are delivered properly to the proper tables and the needs of the guests are met.
The back waiters (French rJemi-chefs de rallg or rommis de rang, also knCM-T1 as dining room attendants or buspersons), 'Who are responsible for clearing plates, refilling Water glasses and other generalwks appropriate for new dining room workers. Whether a restaurant uses this entire array of staff depends upon the nature and size of the restaurant and the type of service provided. With American sen-ice, there is one waiter (also called a server) 'Who take; the order and brings the food to the table. The table is then cleaned by a dining room attendant. With French service, there are t\>.'O waitelS: a captain and a waiter. The captain takes the order, does the tableside cookIng and brings the drinks, appetizers, entrees and desserts 10 the table. The waiter se,,""CS bread and water, clears each OOUTSe, crumbs the table and ser\'es the coffee. With Russian senice, the entree, \-egetables and potatoes are served from a platter onto a plate by the waiter. With buffet senice, usually found in specialty restaurants and some institutional settings such as schools and correctional facilities, diners generally sent! themsel\1!S or are se[\uj by workers 35signed to specific areas of the buffet. Restaurants offering buffet service generally charge by the meal; if they charge by the dish, they are known as cafeterias.
PROFESSIONAJJS.II r"'a.
so that they can correctly answer questions about the menu. He or she may also work with food purveyors to learn alXJut new food items and products, as well :IS with catering directors, equipment vendors, food stylists, restaurant consu ltants, public relations specialists, sanitation engineers, nutritionists and dietitians. The executive chef is assisted by a sous-chef or executive sous-chef, who participates in, supervises and coordinates the preparation of menu items. His or her primal)' responsibility is to make sure that the food is prepared, portioned, garnished and presented according to the executive chef's standards. nle sous-chef may be the cook principally resJXlnsible for producing menu items and supervising the kitchen. L.1rge hotels and conference centers with multiple dining facil ities may have one or more area chefs , each responsible for a specific faci lity or function. Thcre could be, for instance. a restaurant chef and a banquet chef. Area chefs usually report to the executive chef. Each .Irea chef, in tum, has a brigade working under him or her. Like Escoffier's station chefs, line cooks (or section cooks) are responsible for preparing menu items according to recipe specifiCAtions. Making the most of time, talent, space and equipment, the chef assigns responsibilities to each of the line cooks. Depending upon the size and type of operation, the SaUlle, broiler, fl)' , soup and vegetable stations may be combined into one pOSition, as may be the pantry, cold foods and salad stations. TIle pastry chef is responsible for developing recipes for and preparing desserts, pastries, frozen desserts and breads. He or she is usually responsible for purchasing the food items used in the bakeshop. And, as in Escoffier's days, assistants and apprentices are assigned where needed in today's kitchens. New styles of dining have cremed new posit ions since Escoffier's days. The most notable is the short-order cook, who is responsible for quickly prepar~ ing foods to order in sm.. ller operations. He or she will work the broiler, deep' fat fl)'er and griddle as well as make sandwiches and even some sauteed items. Another is the institutional cook. who genef'dlly works with large quantities of prepackaged or prepared foods for a captive market such as a school, hospital or prison,
THE PROFESSIONAL CHEF .n-, Although there is no one reCipe for producing a good professional chef, we believe that with knowledge, skill, taste, judgment, dedication and pride a student chef will mature into a professional chef.
Knowledge Chefs must be able to identify, purchase, utilize and prepare a widc varicty of foods. They should be able to train and supervise a safe, skilled and efficient staff. To do all this successfully, chefs must possess a body of knowledge and understand and appl}' certain scientific and business principles. Schooling helps. A culinal)' progra m-whether at the secondal)' or postsecondary levelshould, at a minimum, provide the student chef with a basic knowledge of foods, food styles and the methods used to prepare foods. Student chefs
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CHAPrER I
should also have an understanding of sanitation, nutrition and business procedures such :IS food costing. TIlis book is designed to help you learn these basics. Many chapters h,l\'e extensive sections identifying foods and equipment. Throughout this book, we e mphasize culinary principles, not recipes. \X'hene\'e r possible, whether it be preparing puff pastry or grilling a steak, we focus on the general procedure, highlighting fundame nt:ll principles and skills; we discuss both the how :lnd why of cooking. Only then :Ire specific :Ipplications and sample recipes given. "'e :llso want you to have a sense of the rich Ir::ldition of cooke ry, so inform:tti\'e sideb:trs on food history, chef biographies and OIher topics are scattered throughout the book. In this way, we follow the trail blazed by Escoflier. who wrote in the introduction to Le Guide Clllilltlire that his book is not intended to be a compendium of recipes slavishly followed, but rather his treatise should be a tool that leaves his colleagues ~free to develop their own methods and follow their own inspir::ttion; . the an of cooking .. will evolve as a society evolves, . only basic rules remain un:llter::tble.·· As with an)' profession, an education does not SlOp at gr::tdualion. The acquisition of knowledge continues after the sludent chef joins the ranks of the e mployed. He or she should take ,Iddilional classes on unique or ethnic cuisines, nutrition, business management or specialized skills. He or she should regularly review some of the many periodicals and lX)()ks devoted 10 cooking, tr:.wel and try new dishes to broaden his or her culinary horizons. The professional chef should :J.lso become involved in professional organizations (see AppendLx I) in order to meet his or her peers and exchange ideas.
Skill Culinary schooling alone does not m,lke a SlUdcnt a chef. Nothing but practical, hands-on experience will provide even the most academically gifted student with the skills needed to produce, consistently and efficiently. qU:J.lity foods or to organize. train, mOtivate and supervise a staff. Many food service openuions recognize that new workers, even those who have gradualed from culinary programs, need time and experience to develop and hone their skills. l11erefore, many gmduates sian at entry-le\'el positions. They should nOt be discouraged; advancement will come, ,md the lmining pa}'s off in the long mn. Today, culinary styles and fashions change frequently. What does nOt go out of fashion are well-trained, skilled and knowledgeable chefs. TIley o m adapl.
Taste Gastrono m y----.-/!Je IIr/ (lml sdmce oj l'lI/illg
u1!ll. Gourmcl-a C1)II1IQissf.>ur rfji1Ui footl (llId drillk. Gour mand __1CQlIIloiSS(1lr of[me food (llId tirinlt, oft,'I1
to ~.
Gourmet (OO
No mailer how knowledgeable or skHk"'
PROFESS/ONJJ1S.11
Then you have soup, then a fish course, then a course, then a S'II.'e'eI. You are using difIem1S cllhe language \\~ are familiar with and feretu parts ri ~'OUr palate, bUI one after an!he foods ....'e gre'N up with. 'nIe struttUte of our other, or linearly. In Asian cuisines, h~'er, taste is fonned \'el)' early, basically when \\e you use sweet, hot, bitter and sour at tOe same start eating baby food. J.s westerners, we divide time. You're eating circularly. The meal is not \:ISle into four major groups: sweet, salty. bitter a lineal progress 10 some point, like dessert and sour. l1le Chinese include a fifth, hoi. You may hal'e already had fruit or a S'II."Cet in (spicy), and Southeast Asians add aromatic the meal, which is a much more satisfying and and pungenl So, there are actually seven or actually much more healthyway 10 eal Euromore 1)plS. Americans, 1'lO\1.'e\'er.largely relyon pean food. like European an, is more 0011sweet and salty. 'nIey don't use sour and bitter cemed with finished fonn. Most ethnic things l'el)' much. They certainly don't use hot very are concemed with process and expression. much. Nor do they use aromatic or strong You must train )'OUr mind 10 go after flavor pungent things like fish paste \f!I)' often. \1;'e characteristics and become im'Oll'ed in the really use only about 30 percent of our palate. process of eating. You must look for flavors in To compare this to sight, it's as if we are color- diffe rent parts of your mouth. Think about blind, unable 10 perceil'e and enjoy fully fil'e how quickly flavors appear in the mouth and 001 cI eYe!)' sel'en colors we see. This is 'Wfly we !lC7W' long the flal'Ors are. 'nIink about the finSOO1etimes ha\'e trouble "acquiring" a taste for ish. You must de\'elop a \'CI)' good sensitivity 10 the fin ish ri the product; otherwise, you O\'erethnic foods. Ifeslemers have a lineal palate, which is season and lose the compositional balance. set up on sweet, salty. \\ith l'ery few counter- from MAR); MIULR, cbef!owtler points and hannonies. For instance, if you eat in tile European manner, you usually begin RED &Gil, Wa.shi!lgtolt DC, alld lIith an appetizer, which may be salty or hot. Com]!: C.1F£, Santa Fe, NM TiNe is composed of about 10,000 compounds.
'lben ....~ think of tasIe, we normally think in
meat
judgment Selecting menu items, determining how much of what item to order, deciding whcther and how to combine ingredients and approving finished items for serrice are all mailers of judgment. Although knowledge and skill play a role in del'eloping judgment, sound judgment comes only with experience.
Dedication Beroming a chef is h::trd work; so is being one. The work is oflen physicllly taxing, the hours are usually long and the pace is frequcntly hectic. Despite these prcssures, the chef is expected 10 efficiently produce consistently fine foods th:11 are properly prepared, seasoned, garnished and presented. To do so, the chef must be dediC'dled to the job. The dedicLled chef should never falt er. The food service industry is competitive and depends upon the continuing goodwill of an often fickle public. One bad dish or one off nighl e m result in a disgruntled diner and los\ business. TIle chef should always be mindful of the food prepared and Ihe customcr served. The chef must also be dedicated to his or her staff. Vinually all food service operations rely on teamwork to get the job done well. Good teamwork requires dcdic uion to a shared goal as well as :t positive al1ilUde.
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C1W'TER I
Pride
,f/ .
, -"
t,~ 'I
Not only is it important that the pb be well done, but the professional chef should have a sense of pride in doing it well. Pride should .tlso extend to personal appearance and behavior in and around the kitchen. The professional chef should be well-groomed and in uniform when working.
The professional chers uniform consists of comfortable shoes, trousers (either solid white, solid black, black-and-white checked or black-and-white striped), a white double-breasted jacket, an apron and a neckerchief usually knotted or tied cravat style. The uniform has certain utilitarian aspects: Checked trousers disguise stains; the double-bre'Jsted white jacket can be reUUUUlltJ tv hide di n, and the double layer of fabric protects from sCllcls and bums; the neckerchief absorbs facial perspiration; and the apron prolects the uniform and insulates the body. TIlis uniform should be worn with pride. Shoes should be polished; trousers and jacket should be pressed. TIle crowning element of the uniform is the toque. A toque is the tall while hat worn by chefs almost everywhere. Although the toque traces its origin to the monasteries of the &h cenrnry, the style worn today was introduced at the end of the 19th century. i\Iosl chefs now wear a standard sL'(- or nine-inch-high toque, but hislOrically, a cook's rank in the kitchen diaated the type of hat worn. Beginners wore flat-topped caloues; cooks with more advanced skills wo re low toques and the master chefs wore high toques called dodinbouffants. Culinary lore holds that the toque's pleats-WI in all-represent the !OJ ways its wearer can successfully prepare eggs.
;(j}wCLUSION .n-, The art and science of cookery form a noble profession with a rich history and long traditions. WIth kno wledge, skill, taste, judgment, dedication and pride, the student chef can become part of this profession. In this book, we provide you with the basic knowledge and describe the techniques at which you must become skilled. Dedicate yourself to learning this informmion and mastering your skills. Once you have done so, take pride in your accomplishments. Good luck.
,!l2UFSl70NS FOR DISCUSSION .n-, I. Describe the kitchen brigade system. What is its significance in today's professional kitchens? 2. Wtm are the roles of a chef, SOlis-chef and line cook in a modem kitchen? 3. Describe the differences in a meal prepared by Careme and one prepared by Point. 4. List and explain three technological advances affeaing food preparation. ;. Discuss the societal changes that have contributed to diversification in the modern food service induslry.
HAPTER
2 OOD 'AFE7Y AND ___ 'ANITATION
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After slUdying this chapter, you will be able to; r1!\,
identify the
r1!\,
handle foods in a safe manner
r1!\,
take appropriate actions 10 crcatc and maintain a safe and
CIUseS
of food -
borne illnesses
sanitary working environment
Biological hazard-...a danger 10 lbe safety if food Cdl/Sed by diseasutlllsillg micrrXJrgallisms
stich as bacleria, m0«4, yeasJs, viruses or fUllgi. Chemical hazard-a danger to lbe Stliety of food causal by cbemical su/Jsllmces, e5{N!daUy emming asenls, pesIidder and Iaric mtlali. Phys ical hazard-(I dill/ger 10 tbe safety 0/ food callsed by parlides sitch as gloss chips, mekJl shal.'illgt, bits of uood or 0Iher foreign "ullfer.
he U.s. Public Health Se/v ice ide11fifies more than. 40 dis-
eases that calt be trtl11smitted though food. Many
Ctl ll
cause serious
illness; some are even deadly. 7berefore, providing consumers with safe food is the food hal/dler's most imp011(lIIf responsibility. Un/Oltti-
l1alely, food handlers, who inelude anyone comil18 info cOIl/acl with food or food preparatiol1 equipmeflt, are also the primary calise of food-related illnesses. By lll1derstandillg what causesfood-bome illnesses and what call be done to prevent them, you will be beller able to protect your CllStamers. This chapter, howeuel; is 1/01 meant to be a complete disclIssian of sanitation ill food service operatioNs. But it should alel1 YOIl to practices that can result infood-borne illnesses. Federal, stale, county and mllllicipal heallh, building and olber codes are designed ill part 10 ensure that food is handled ill a safe and proper manner. Always COIISltlt your local healtb depal1melll for illformaliofl and gUida nce. And always be conscious of what you call do to create and maintaill a safe prodllct alld a safe environment for your customers, YOllrfellow employees and yourself.
Sanitatio n refers to the creation and maintenance of conditions that will prevent food contamination or food-borne illness. Contaminatio n refers 10 the presence, generally unintended, of harmful organisms or substances. Contaminants can be (I) biological, (2) chemical or (3) physical. When consumed in sufficient quantities, food-borne contaminants can cause illness or injury, longlasting disease or even demh . Contamination occurs in two ways: direct contamination and cross-contamination. Direct contamination is the contamination of raw foods, or the pl:tnts or anim:lls from which they come, in their natural settings or habitats. Chemical and biological contaminants such as bacteria and fungi are present in the air, soil and water. So, foods can be easily contaminated b}' their geneml exposure to the environment: Grains can become contaminated by soil fumig:mts in the fie ld, and shellfish can become contaminated by ingesting toxic marine algae. Chemicals and microorganisms generally cannQ{ move on their own, however. They need to be transponed , an event known as cross-contamination. The major cause of cross-contamination is people. FO<Xi handlers can transfer biological, chemical and physical contaminants to food while processing. preparing, cooking or serving it It is therefore necessary to view sanitation as the correction of problems caused by direct contamination and the prevention of cross-contamination during processing and service.
FOODSAFElYANDW/ffA17ON
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DIREcr CONTAMINA170N .n-, Biological Contaminants Several microorga nisms, primarily baCte ria , parasites, viruses and fungi, can
cause biologically b:lsed food-borne illnesses. By understanding how these organisms live and re produce, you can better understand how to protect food from them.
M icroorganisl.11fj.-sjngle-ctl1ed organisms as
well as /iny planls and aninllds f1xu alII be SIlffI
only Ibrougb a m~
Bacteria Bacteria. which are singte-celled microorganisms, are the leading cause of food-borne illnesses. See Figure 2.1 . J\']ost bacteria reproduce by binary fission: Their genetic material is first duplicated and the nucleus then splits, each new nucleus laking some of the cellular material wi th it. See Figure 2.2. Under faI'orable conditions e:tch bacterium can divide every 15-30 minutes. Within 12
hours, one bacterium can become a colony of 72 billion bacteria, more than eoough to cause serious illness. Some rod-shaped bacteria aTC capable of famling spores. Spores are thickwalled structures used as protection against a hostile environment. The bacleria essentially hibernate within their spores where they can survive extreme conditions that would othenvise destroy them. When conditions become faI"OrJble, the bacteria return to a viable state. This is important in food sanitation because heating or sanitizing techniques may nOt destroy bacterial spores. Some bacteria are benefiCial, such as those that aid in digesting f<XXI or decomposing gariYJge. Other bacteria spoil food , but without rendering it unfit for human consumption. These bacteria, called putrefactives, are not a sanitation concern. (Indeed , in some cultures, they are not even a culinary concern. Cultures differ on what constirutes "bad meat, for example, and game is sometimes hung for a time \0 allO\"\' bacteria to grow.) H
Spirilll FtGURf 2.1
Baeten·a am be classified by
shape: Rods are short, tubuk" stmctures;
cocci are discs, some ojwhlch jorm c/usten; and Spirilla are corkscreu'S.
OGGes "'"
W minutes
40
minUIe5
I hour
Single cells are microscopic
I hr., 20 min.
large colonies
our be lisible
10 the naked f')"t
Figure 2.2 Qlle bacterium divides into two; tIJe two bacteria each divide, cf"fatingjour; lbejour become 16 and S() on. /I takes on9' a L'etJ' shorl time jor one bacterium 10 produce mi/lions more.
22
C/wn-:n 2
Pathogen---(I filillg IIIk'roorgallkm Iblll ({III (oust' {mISe.
The bacteri:t that arc dangerous when consumed by humans arc called pathogenic. TIlese :Ire the Ixtcteria that must be deSiroyed or controlled in ;t food service operation.
IlItu\"ications and Injections Dcrx:nding lIpon the p.1nicular microorg.1nism, pathogenic haderi:t C'.1n cause illnesses in humans in one of three ways: by intoxic::ttion, infection or toxin-medi:tted infection. See Table 2.3, p. 25. Botulism is a well-known example of an intoxicatio n . Certain lxlCteria produce toxins, byproducts of their life processes. You cannot smell, see or taste toxins. Ingesting these toxin-producing baderi:t by themselves does nOi c:.use illness. But when their toxins ,Ire ingested, the toxins can poison the consumer. Proper food-handling lechniques are crilical in preventing :tn intoxicnion because, e,'en if a food is cooked 10 a sufficiently high lempcrJture to kill all bacteria prt:sent, the loxins they leave behind are uSU:llIy nOi destroyed. The second type of baderial illness is an jnfection. Salmonell:t is :10 especially well-known example. An infeoion occurs when live p.1thogenic bacteria (ink"'CI.ants) are ingested. The bacteria then live in the consumer's intestinal tract. It is the living bacteri:t, not their waste products, that cause an illness. Infectants must be alive when e:tlen for them to do any harm. Fortunatel}" these bacteria can be destroyed by cooking foods to sufficientl}' high temperatures, usually 165°F (74°C) or higher. nle third type of bacterial illness has characteristics of both :t n intoxication :tnd an infection, and is referred to as a toxin-mediated infection. Examples :Ire Clostridium perfringens :md Escherichia coli OIS7:H7. W'hen these living organisms :Ire ingested, they establish colonies in human or animal intestinal tracts where they then pr<xllice toxins. These bacteria are panicuJarly dangerous for young children, the elderly or the infinn.
Preventing &iclerialll1to,\'icatiofls and In/ections All bacteria, like other living things, need certain conditions in order to complete their life cycles. Like humans, they need food , a comfonable temperature, moisture, the proper pH , the proper atmosphere and timc. The best way to prevent ba(lerial intoxications and infections is to al13ck the fadOrs bacteria need to survive and multiply. Food B:tcteria need food for energy and growth. The foods on which bacteria thrive are referred to as potentially hazardous foods . Potential1}' hazardous foods include those high in protein slLch as meat, poult!)" fish and shellfish. Dai!)' products, eggs, gr3ins :tnd some veget:lbles arc also sufficiently high in protein to support bacterial growth. TIlese foods and items containing these foods (for example, custard, holl:tndaise sauce :tnd quiche) must be handled with gre:lt care. Temperature Temperature is the most important factor in the pathogenic bacteria's environment bec:mse it is the factor most easily controlled by food service workers. Most microorganisms are destroyed al high temper:uures. Freezing slows, but does not stop, gro\\1h, nor does it destroy bacteria. Most of the bacteria that cause food-borne illnesses multiply rJpidly at temperatures berween 60°F and 120°F (I6°C-49°C). Therefore, the bro.1d range of temperatures between 40°F and 140°F (4°C--6O"C) is referred to as the temperature dange r zone . See Figure 2.3. By keeping foods out of the temper:lture danger zone, you decre:lse the b:lcteria's ability to thrive and reproduce. (The Food and Dmg AdministrJlion's MO(lel Food c<xle states that the temperature danger zone begins at 41 °F (5°C), whereas regulations in some 1000liti(.'S
FOOD wen' AND S4NrrA110N
Slate that the danger zone begins at 4)°F (l°C). Here we use the broader range recommended by the U.S. Dep:~ nment of Agriculture--40°F-1400F-since this provides a slightly grealer margin of safety.) To control the growth of any bacteria Ihal ma)' be present it is imponant to maiOlain the intemallemper:llure of food at 1400F (60°C) or abo\'e or 400F (4°C) or below. Simply Slated: Keep hoi foods hoi (llId cold foods cold. This is known as the lime-and-temperature principle. P(){entially hazardous f()(Xls should be heated or cooled quickly so that they are within the temper.IIlIre danger zone as briefly as possible. Keep hOI /()()(Is bOI. 111e high internal temperatures reached during cooking 065°F-212°F174°C-1OO°C) kill most of the bacteria that can cause food -borne illnesses. When rehe:lting foods, (he internal temperature should re;lCh or exCl.:ed 165°F (74°C) in order to kill any bacteria th:11 may have grown during stomge. Once properly heated, hal foods must be held at lempenllUres of 1400F (600C) or above. Foods that are to be displayed or served hot must be he:ue<1 rapidly (0 reduce the time within the temperature danger zone. When heating or rehealing foods:
CElSIUS lOO"t
• Ne\·er thaw foods at room temperature. • Thaw f()(Xls gr.tdU:llly under refrigeration. Place them in a container to prc\·ent cross--com:lmin:ltion frOIll dripping or leaking liquids. • nlaw foods under mnning water at a (emper:lIure of 700F (21°C) or cooler. • Thaw fexxls in :l microwave only if the food will be prepared and served immediately.
-<
J
212"f
I
165°f 140°F
.'<
40"'
O' C
32°f
· 18°C
I
•
0"
~
Keep cold foods cold. Foods that are to be displayed, stored, or served cold must be cooled rapidly. When cooling foods:
Krx1J/rozell/()()(Is/rozell . Freezing alO°F (- ISOC) or below essentblly stops baderial growth but will nOi kill the bacteria. But do nOi place hOI foods in a st:lnrulrd freeze r. They will not cool more rapidly, and the release of heat em raise the temperature of other foods in the freezer. Only a special blast freezer can be used for chilling hot ilems. If one is not available, cool hal foods as mentioned above before freezing [hem. \X'hen frozen foods are thawed, bactcri:J. Ihal arc present will begin 10 grow. Therefore:
23
FAlIR1:..... H.EIT
t-
• Heat small qWlOtities at a time. • Stir frequentl y. • Heat foods as close to service time as possible. • Use preheated ingredients whenever possible to prepare hot foods. • Never use :1 stC
• Rcfriger3te semisolid foods al 40°F (4°C) or below in containers that are less (han 2 inches deep. (Increased surface area decreases cooling time.) • Avoid crowding (he rcfriger.Hor; allow air (0 circulate around foods. • Vem hot foods in
~~
FIGURE 2.3
The Tempertlillre Danger Zone
Time When bacteria are moved from one place to another, lhey require lime to adjust to new conditions. This resting period, during which very little growth occurs, is known :IS the lag phase :lnd 1l1:IY last from one to four hours. It is followed by the log phase, a period of accelerated growth, which lasts until the ixlcteria begin to crowd O(hers within their colony, creating competition for food , space and moisture. TIlis begins the decline or negative growth phase, during which bacteria die at an accelerated rate. See Figure 2.4. Because of the lag phase, foods can be in the tem· perature d:lnger zone for very short periods during preparation without an unacceptable increase in bacteri:ll growth. Exposure to the temperature d1nger zone is cumulative, however, :tnd should not exceed four hours total. The less time food is in the temperature d:mgcr zone, the less opportunity bacteria h:lVe to multiply.
Time FIGUILE 2.4
lklcleritlf Growlh Curve
Moisture Bacteria need a certain amount of moisture, which is expressed as water activity or A..... Water itself has an A..., of 1.0. Any food with an Aw of .85 or greater is considered potentially ha7.ardous. See Table 2.1. Bacteria cannot flourish where the Aw is too low, usually below .85. This explains why dry foods such as flou r, sugar or crackers are rarely subject to b:lcterial infestations. A low A.... only halts bacterial growth, however; it does not kill the microorg:misms. When a dried food such as beans or rice is rehydr:tted, any bllcteria present can flou rish and the food may become potentially ha;wrdous. pll--ll I1IffiSllml/{!/if of lbe (1Cit1or IIlhlli roll-
knl of(I soililioll. £"f{Jrt:SS«IOII (/ salle of 010 14.0, 7.0 is COllsidt'red IImlral or /x/kllleed. 7be I{II/'er lbe pH wIlle, lbe ilion: llcillic lbe slibs/allCi'. 7be bight,. lhe pH mflle, lbe more alkalille lbe subs/lIIla'.
TABLE 2.1
.n-. WATER AcnvlTY
Acid!Alkali Balance Bacteria are affected by the pH of their environment. See Table 2.2. Although they can survive in a wider range, Ihey prefer a neutrdl environment wilh a pH of 6.6 to 7.5. Growth is usually halted if the pH is 4.6 or less. So, acidic foods such :IS lemon juice, tomatoes and vinegar create an unfavorable environment for bacteria. Simply adding an acidic ingredient to foods should nOl., however, be relied upon to destro}' bacteria or preserve foods. TIle amount of acidity appropriate for flavoring is nO( sufficient to ensure the destruction of bacteria.
OF CoMMON FOODS
0.0 .1
.2
.3 .4 .5 .6
dried
.7
flour, dry milk
.75 .8 .85 .9
jam,
.95 .98 1.0
p:!Sl:i
jelly.
crisp cooked oocon
MI NIM UM FOR BACll :RIAL GROWlli ra w b:lcon
sofl cheese poultry and meal distilled wJ.(cr
Atmosphere Bacteria ne(.>
Parasites Parasites are tiny organisms that depend on nutrients from a living host to complete their life cycle. Meat
FOOD £lFE7Y AND WI'rrA170N
TABLE
2.2 .n-.
~
25
pH OF CoMMON FOODS
0 1.0
2,0 3.0 40
A
,
C
4.6
D
5.0
6.4 7.0 8.0 8.5 9.0
~ElJfRAL
A l K A l
T,IBI£
10.0 11.0 12.0 13.0 14.0
2.3 .n-.
limes, lemons conunercial mayonnaise orange juice bananas 1ll0St "egetablcs (5.0 10 7.0) chicken and fresh mealS distilled water. fish crackers. hominy baking sodl in water
household ammonia
CIIARACfERISTICS OF BACfERIAl iLm iSSJC<;
Common Name
Organism
FOOll
Common Sources
Prevent,ion
Suph
Staphylococcus aureus
Toxin
Sl:archy foods, cold mealS, bakery items, custards, milk products, hum:ms with infected wounds or sores
WlSh hands and Ulensils before use: exclude unhealthy food handlers: avoid having foods at room temperature
Perfringens or CP
Clostridium p..-rfringens
Cells and toxin
Reheated meats, sauces, stews, casseroles
Keep cooked foods at an imernal temperature of 140"F (6O"C) or higher, reheat leftovers to an internal temperature of 165GF (74 GC) or higher
Botulism
Clostridium botulinum
Toxin, cells, spores
Cooked foods held for :m extendecl time at wann temperatllre,~ with limited oxygen, rice, potatoes, smoked fish , canned vegetables
Keep (:ooh.'(\ foods at an internal tcmperJture of 140GF (60°C) or higher or 40°F (4°C) or lower; reheat leftovers thoroughly; discard swollen cans
Salmonella
Salmonella
Cells
Poultry, eggs, mi,lk, meats, fecal contamination
Thoroughly cook all meat, poultry, fi sh and eggs; avoid crosscontamination with raw foods; maintain good personal hygiene
"rep
Streptococcus
Cel"
Infected food handlers
Do not allow employees to work if ill; pnJ(ect foods from OJSlomcrs' coughs and sneezes
E. roIi or 0157
Escherichia coli 01 ;7: H7 (enteropathogenic strains)
Cells and toxins
Any food, especially raw milk, raw \'cgetables, raw or rare beef, humans
Thoroughly cook or reheat items
USll"ri:I
LiSI('ri:l nlonocytogenes
Cel"
Milk products, humans, deli meats
Avoid raw milk and cheese made from unp:lsteurized milk; keep SlOrage areas clean
26
elWl," 2
animals, fish, shellfish and hum:ms can all play hosl to parasites. Several types of very small parasitic worms can enter an animal through contaminated feed,
then senle in the host's intestinal tract or muscles, where they grow and reo produce. The ones most commonly found in fOClds are lricbillella spira/is and
auisakis. Trichinosis is caused by eating undercooked game o r pork infected with trichina lan'ae. Although trichinosis has been virtually eradicated by grain-feeding hogs and testing them before slllUgilIer, some cases still occur each year. Traditionally, it was thought thaI pork must be cooked \0 internal temperatures of 170°F (77°e) or higher 10 eradicate the larvae. This generally resulted in a dry, tough product. Scientists h:lve now determined that trichina larvae are killed if held:lt 137°F (;SOC) for 10 seconds. The FDA currently recommends cooking pork prodUdS to :10 internal tempemture of 1500F (66°C). (All commercially packaged cured or smoked pork produds must be heated to an internal temperature of 155°F (68°C) during processing.) The National Livestock and Meat Board continues to recommend cooking all pork products to 170°F (77°C), however. Anisakiasis is another illness caused by parasitic roundworms. Anisakis WOnTIS reside in the organs of fish. especially bottom feeders o r those taken from contaminated waters. Raw or undercooked fish are most often implicated in anisakiasis. Fish should be thoroughly cleaned immediately after being caught so that the pamsites do not have an opportunity to spread. Thorough cooking to a minimum internal tempemture of 1400F (60°C) is Ihe only way to destroy Ihe larvae since they can survive even highly acidic marinades. Cyclospora infooions are caused b}' a single-celled parasite found in waler or f()(X\ contaminated by infected feces. Produce from undeveloped countries is a common source of cydospora paraSites, as is umreated water. Avoiding such products is the best prevention method.
Viruses Vimses cause othe r biologically based f()(X\-borne illnesses such as hepatitis A and Norwalk vims. Viruses are the smallest known forms of life. They invade the living cells of a host, take over those cells' genetic material, and cause the cells 10 produce more viruses. Vimses do nO[ require a host to survive, however. They can survive-but not multiply-while lying on any food o r food contact surface. Unlike bacteria, viruses can be present on any food, not just a potentially hazardous food. The f()(X\ or food contact surface simply becomes a means of transport:lIion between hosls. Unlike bacteria. vimses are not affected by the water activity, pH or oxygen content of their environmem. Some, however, can be destroyed by tempemlUres higher than 176°F (SO°e). Basically, the only way to pre\'ent food-oome viral illnesses is to prevem contamination in the first place. He patitis A often enters the food supply through shellfish harvested from polluted waters. The vims is carried b}' humans, some of whom may never know they are infooed, and is tr:msmiued b}' poor personal hygiene and cross-contamination. The adu:.l source of cont,unination may be hard to establish, though, because it sometimes takes months for symptoms to appear. The Norwalk virus is spre:.ld almost entirely by poor personal hygiene among infeCied f()(X\ handlers. The vims is found in human feces, contaminated water or \'egetables ferti lized by m:mure. The vims can be destroyed by high cooking temperatures but not by sanitizing solutions o r freezing. In fact , Norwalk vims has e ven been found in ice cubes.
&
FOOD s"tFI:7}' AND SANfTA'flON
Foods most likely to trnnsmil dral diseases are those that are not heated after handling. ·111ese include salads., sandwiches, milk , baked prodUdS, uncooked fish and shellfish and sliced meats. The best techniques for avoiding viral food-borne illnesses are 10 observe good personal hygiene habits, avoid cross-<:Onl:tmin:tlion, and use only foods obtained from reputable sources.
Fungi Fungi :tre a large group of pbnls r.mging from single-celled org:tnisms to gianl mushrooms. Fungi arc e\'e rywhere: in the soil. air and water. Poisonous mushrooms. a type of fungus. Gm cause illness or death if consumed. The most common fungi. howcver. are molds and yeasts.
Molds 1\lolds arc alg:lclike fungi th:lt form long fiJamcnls or str
•'l!asls Ye:lsts rC
Cbemical Contaminants nle contamination of foods by a wide variety of chemicals is :1 vcry real and serious danger. one about which the public has shown :l strong interest. Chemical contamin:llion is usually inadvenent and invisible, making it extremely dif· !lcult 10 deled . The only way to :Ivoid sllch hazards is for e\'e ryone working in a food service oper:lIion 10 follow proper procedures when handling flX)(ls or chemicals. Chemicil hazards include conl:1Il1inaliOIl with (I) residual chemiClls used in growing the food supply, (2) food service chemicals and (3) toxic melais.
Kesidual Cbemicnls Chemicils such :15 antibiotics. fertilizers, insecticides and herbiCides have brought :lbOlll gre:lt progress in controlling plant , animal and human diseases. permitting greater flX)(l yields and stilllui:tting animal growth. The benefits derived from these chemicals, howe\'e r, must be contr:tsted with the ,Idverse effects on humans when they :Ire used indiscriminately or improperly.
,"""'2\.,
27
28
CHAPTER 2
The danger of these chemicals lies in the possible contaminmion of human foods. which ocrurs when chemical residues remain after the intended goal is achieved. Fndts and vegetables must be washed and peeled properly to reduce the risk of consuming residual chemicals.
Food Service CbemiCllis A more common contamination problem involves the common chemicals found in mOSt every food service operation. Cleaners, polishes, pesticides and abrasi\'es are often poisonous to humans. Illness and even death can result from foods contaminated by such common items as bug spray, drain cle:.lner, oven cleaner or silver polish. These chemicals pose a hazard if used or stored near food supplies. Even improperly washing or rinsing dishes and utenSils leaves a soap residue, which is then transmiued via food to anyone using the item. To avoid food service chemical contamination, make sllre all cleaning chemicals are clearly labeled and stored well away from food preparation and storage areas. Always usc Ihese products as directed by the manufacturer; never reuse a chemical container or package.
Toxic Melflls AnOlher type of chemical contamination occurs when metals such as lead, mercury, copper, zinc and antimony are dispersed in food or water. For example: • Metals can accumulate in fi sh and shellfish living in polluted waters or in plants grown in soil cont:lmin:ued by the mel:lls. • Using an acidic food such as tomatoes or wine in a zinc (galvanized) or unlined copper container causes metal ions to be released into the food. • Antimony is used in bonding enamelware; it Cdn be released inlo food when the enamel is chipped or cracked, so the use of en:lmelware is prohibited in food service facilities. • Lead enters the water su pply from le:ld pipes and solder, and is found in the glaze on some imported ceramic items. Consuming any of these metals can cause poisoning. To prevent metal contamination, lise only approved food service equipment and utensils and re-tin copper cookwa re as need<.-d. Ne\'er serve fish or shellfish that was illegally harvested or ornained from uninspected sources.
Physical Contaminants Physical contamin:lIlts include foreign objects that find their wa)' into foods b)r mi!.!ake. Examples include metal shavings creat(.-'(I by :. worn C10 opener, pieces of gl:tss from II broken container, hair and dirt. Physic.II cont;llninants may be crelltcd by intention:11 tampering, but they :Ire most likely the result of pcx:!r safety and s.'lnit:ltion praaiccs or a lack of training.
CROSS-CONfAMINAJ70N Generally. microorganisms and other contaminants cannot move by themselves. R..'lIher, they are carried to foods and food COntliCI surf:tces by hum:lIls, rodents or insects. This transfer is referred to as cross-contamination.
FOOD SAFI:71' AND SANrrAl10N
,~,
29
Cross-contamin:llion is the process by which one item, such as your finger or a cutting board, becomes contaminated and then contaminates another food or tool. For example. a chefs knife and cuning board are used in butchering a potentially hazardous food such as a chicken. In this case, the chicken had been direaly comaminated with salmonella m the hatchery. If the knife and boord are nO! cleaned (l1/d stlllitized pro~rl}'. an}1hing that touches them can also become contaminated. So, even though cooking the chicken to an appropri:ne imernal tem~ratllre ma)' destro}' the salmonella in the chicken, the uncooked salad greens cut on the same clltting board or with the s.'1 me knife can comain live bacteria. Cross-contamination can occur with baderia or other microorganisms, dlcl]IiGlb, L1ill ,tilL! debris. Side towels are an especially commo n source of cross-comamin:niOI1. If a cook uses a side towel to wipe a spill off the floor, then uses that same towel to dry his hands after visiting the restroom, he has n."'Contamimned his hands with whatever bacteria or dirt was on the floor. Cross-contamination also occu rs when raw foods come in com:lct with cooked foods. Never store cooked food below raw food in a refrigerator, and never return cooked food to the container Ihat held the raw food. Cross-contamination can also occur eaSily from smoking. drinking or eating, unless hands are properlr washed after each of Ihese activities.
RedUCing Cross-Contamination Cross-contaminat ion cm be reduced or even prevented by (I) ~rsonal cleanliness. (2) dish and equipmem cleanliness and (3) pest management.
Personal Cleauliness To produce clean, s.1nit:u)' food , all food handlers must maintain high standuels of personal cleanliness and hrgiene. This begins with good grooming. Humans provide the ideal environment for the gro'\1h of microorganisms. Everyone harbors bacteria in the nose and mouth. These bacteria arc easily spread by sneeZing or coughing, by nO! disposing of tissues properly and by nOl washing hands fre
PROPER HAND WASIIING PROCEDURE <1!\., <1!\., <1!\., <1!\.,
<1!\.,
<1!\.,
Use hot running water. Wet h:mds :md fore:mns. Apply an antibacterial soap. Rub hands and amlS briskly with soapy lather for at le:l'it 20 seconds. Scrub between fingers :md clean nails with a cle:U1 nail brush. Rinse thou roughly under hot nlnning \\':Iter.
<1!\.,
<1!\., <1!\.,
Reapply soap and scrub hands and fOrelnns for another S-IO seconds. Rinse again. Dry h:Ulds and anllS USing a single-use tuv.\:1.
<1!\., <1!\.,
Use the to\I~1 to tum off the water. Discard the \(l',\~l in a trash receptacle.
30
c/W'Tt."R 2
• Wear work clothes that are clean and ne:tl. Avoid wearing jewelry or watches. • Do not eat, drink, smoke or chew gum in food preparation areas.
Disb and Eqll1pmenl Cleanliness Clea n-IO remOl't risible dirt (IIK/:xJiJ. Sanl lize.--/Q rer/llre ptlf/)08e11N; orgallisms to
safeler'l'ls. Sie riilze--lo (Iestroy (Ill lit1118 microorgallisms.
One of the requirements for any food service facility is cleanability. But there is an imponant difference between clean and 5;lOitary. Clean means that the item has no visible soil on il. Sanitary means that harmful substances are reduced to safe le\'els. Thus, something Illay be clean without being sanitary; the \'isible din can be removed, but disease-causing microorganisms ClIO remain. The cleaning of dishes, pots, pans and utensils in :1 food service operation involves both removing soil and sanitizing. Soil can be removed manually or by machine. Sanitizing C;IO be accomplished with heal or chemical disinfectants. Procedures for manually washing. rinsing and san itizing dishes and equipment generally follow the three-companment sink setup shown in Figure 2.5. The dishwasher must: 1. Scrape and spray Ihe item 10 remove soil. 2. Wash the item in the first sink companment using an :lpproved delergent. A brush or cloth may be used to remove any remaining soil. j. .Rinse the item in the second sink comp:lnment using cle:lr, hot w:lter. 4. Sllllitize the item in the third sink compartment by either: a. immersing it in l70"F (noC) w:tter for at least 30 seconds, or h. immersing it in an approved chemic.. 15.1nitizing solution according to the manufacturer's directions. 5. Empty, dean :lnd refill each sink companment as necessary, and check the water temper.llure regularly.
Food service items, dishes, silverware :Jnd utensils should alwlI}'s be allowed to air-dry, as towel-drying may recontaminate them. Machine-washing dishes or lIIensils follows a similar procedure. 'llle dish· washer should first scrape and rinse items as needed, then 1(Xld the items into dishwasher racks so that (he spray of water wil! reach :111 surfaces. The m:l· chine cleans the items with a detergent, then sanitizes (hem wilh either a hot· water rinse (at least 180cF/82C C) or chemical disinfectant. Wben the machine
IT
r l FIGURE 2.S
The Three-Comparfment Sink
Procedure--scrafJe, S{JrtI)\ wasb, rinse, Sflllitize (/nd air·dry (!(/cb item.
l
FOOD WEn' AND SANfTAl1aV
cycle is complete, items should be inspeded for residual soil, allowed to airdry and stored in a clean area, \'\ork tables and stationary equipment must also be cleaned and sanitized properly. Equipment and surfaces, including floors, walls and work tables, should be easily exposed for inspection and cleaning and should be consuucted so lIla! soil can be remo\·ed effectively and efficiently wilh normal deaning procedures. A thorough cleaning schedule should be implemented and dosely monitored to prevent problems from developing. The following points arc important to the safety and cleanliness of any food service f:lcil ity: • Equipment should bc disassembled for cleaning; any immersible pieces should be cleaned and s~lniti zed like other items. • All work tables or other food contaCI surfaces should be cleaned wilh detergent, then sanitized with a clean doth dipped in a sanitizing solution. Combining one gallon (4 liters) of lukewarm water with one tablespoon (1; milliliters) of chlorine bleach makes an acceptable sanitizing solution. This solution must be replaced every twO hours. Other chemical sanitizers should be prepared and used according to health department and manufadurer's directions. • Surfaces, especially work surfaces with which food may come in conlad , should be smooth and free of cracks, crevices or seams in which soil and microorganisms can hide. • ~'oors should be nonabsorbent and should not become slippery when wet.
• Walls and ceilings should be smooth and light-colored so that soil is easier to see. • Ught should be ample and well located throughout food preparation and Slorage areas. All Jight bulbs should be covered with a sleeve or globe 10 prOled surroundings from shattered glass. A kitchen's design Gin :Ilso affect food safety and sanitation. Food preparation equipment should be arrJnged in such a way as to decrease the chances of cross-contamination. The workflow should eliminate crisscrossing and backtracking. Employees should be able to reach storage, refrigeration and cleanup areas easily. Dish- and poI-washing areas and garbage facilities shou ld be kepI as far from food prep:lf'Jlion and storage areas as possible. Cleaning supplies and Other chemicals should be slored away from foods. In mosl communities, the design of a food service faciliry is controlled in part by pubiic health regulations. The local health and building codes should be consulted when planning any conslrudion or remodeling, or when purchasing and installing new equipment.
Pest Managemellt Food can be cont:lminaled by inseas (for example, roaches and flies) and r0-
dents (for example, mice and rats). These pests carry many harmful bacleria on their bodies, Ihus cont:lminating an}' surface with which they rome in contao. An insect or rodent infestation is usually considered a serious health risk and should be dealt with immediately and thoroughly. Pests must be controlled by (1) building them out of the facility, (2) creating an environment in which Ihey cannot find food, water or shelter, and (3) relying on professional extermination.
31
32
, C/IAJTF.R 2
A HACer S"STUt nO"-CIIART Idc!luf)'lXllcntiai hmnls Il/ld eo.-aJU.:Ile Ihelr St'I"tril)' and risks.
TIle best defense against pests is to prevent infestations in the first place br building them out. Any crack-no matter how small-in door frames, walls or window sills should be repaired immediately, and all dl"'Jins, pipes and venlS should be well-sealed. Inspect all deliveries thoroughly, and rejea any packages or comainers found to contain evidence of pests. Flies are a perfea method of transponation for baderia because the)' feed and breed on human waste and garbage. Use screens or ~ ny fans~ (also known as air curtains) to keep them out in the first place. Comrolling garbage is also essential because moist, warnl, decaying organic material attracts flies and provides favorable conditions for eggs to hatch and larvae to grow. Pest management also requires creating an inhospitllble environment for pests. Store all food :md supplies at least 6 inches off the floor and 6 in('h~s away from walls. Rotate stock often to disnlpt nesting places and breeding habits. Provide good ventilation in storerooms to remove humidity, airborne contaminants, grease and fumes. Do not allow water to stand in drains, sinks or buckets, as cockroaches are attracted to moisture. Clean up spills and crumbs immedi:ltely and completely to reduce their food supply. Despite your best efforts to build pests out and maintain proper housekeeping standards, it is still imponant to watch for the presence of pests. For example, cockroaches le:lVe a strong, oily odor and feces that look like large grains of pepper. Cockroaches prefer to search for food and water in the dark, so seeing any cockroach on the move in the daylight is an indication of a large infestation. Rodents (mice and I"lts) tend to hide during the day. so an infestation may be rather serious before any creature is adually seen. Rodent droppings, which are shiny black 10 brownish gl"ly, may be evidenl, howe\-er. Rodem nests m.1de from SCl"lpS of paper, hair or OIher soft materials ma)' be sported. Should an infestation occur, consult a licensed pest control operator immediately. Wilh early detedion and proper treatment. infestations can be eliminated. Be very careful in attempting to use pesticides or inseaicides yourself. These chemicals are toxic to humans as well as 10 pests. Great care mUSt be used to prevent contaminating food or exposing workers or customers to the chemicals.
i-
t
HACCP SYSTEMS .n-.
ldenti~' the Crilleal Control
PoInts. which ilJ"t stepS ,."IlC1t hmrtbi can be reduced ~r eUmlnalcd.
t EstahlWl proctdures for controlling hmrds and correcting problems.
t MonilOr Ihf Critical Control PointS Il/ld coma probImts as Ihf)' arise.
t
.-.
Sft up and use a reconl-keeplng
t
th:u Ihf S)">Iem Is ,."Orking and adjUst II as needed.
\'erI~'
I-
Now that you understand what contaminants are and how they can be destroyed or controlled, it is necessary to put this information into pradice during day-to-day operations. Although local health depanments regularly inspect all food service faCilities , continual self-inspection and control are essential for maintaining sanitary conditions. Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points (HACCP) is proving to be an effeaive and efficiem method for managing and maintaining sanitary conditions in all types of food sen'ice operations. Developed in 1971 for NASA to ensure food safety for astronauts, HACCP-and a similar system adopted by the National Restaurant Association known as Sanitary Assessment of the Food Environment (S.A.F.E.}-is a rigorous system of self-inspection. It focuses on the flow of food through the food sen'ice facility, from the decision to include an item on the menu through sen'ice to the consumer.
k
FOOD SAFtm' AND Wfl7imON
TABLE 2.4 "'" HACCP ANAi.YSIs--THE FLOWOF FOOD Critical Action
Control Poim
HaZ!lrds
Menu and recipes
POIenlially hazardous foods; Plan physiC3.\ work flow; train employees human hands inmlved in food preparation
Receiving
Contaminated or spoiled good>
Inspea and reject deliveries if necessary
Sloragc
Cross-oontaminalion to and from Other foods; b.1deriaJ growth; spoilage
Maintain proper temperatures; ffi(;lle stock; diSC;J.rd if 0='1'
Preparation
Cross-rontaminalion;
bacterial growth
Wash hands and utensils; avoid temperature danger zone
l3actcri:l1 survival; physical
Cook \0 proper tempera tures; store foods properly
Cooking
or chemical contamination
Holding and scr.'ice
Contamination;
bacterial growth Cooling
lcftovc~
Reheating
Use dean equipment; maintain proper temperatures
Iladenal survival and gro\VIh
Cool rapidly, cover and
Bacterial survival and growth
Heat rapidly 10 165°F (74°C);
refrigerate
maintain temperatures; do not mix old and new products
An HACCP critical control point is any step during the processing of a food when a mistake can result in the transmission, growth or survival of pathogenic bacteria. At each of these steps, there is some hazard of contamination. The HACCP process begins by identifying the steps and evaluating the type :md severity of hazard that can occur. [t then identifies what actions can be taken to reduce or prevent each risk of hazard. See Table 2.4. The activities that present the highest risk of hazard should be monitored most closely. For example, a cook's failure to wash his or her hands before handling cooked food presents a grellter risk of hazard than does a dirty fl oor. In other words, hazards must be prioritized, and the correction of critical concerns should take priority. Whatc\'cr system is followed, however, all personnel must be constantly aware of and responsive to problems and potential problems associated with the safety of the food they arc serving.
THE SAFE WORKER.N"> Kitchens are fill ed with objects that can cut, burn, break, crush or sprain the human booy. The best ways to prevent work-related injuries are proper training, good work habits and carefu l supervision. The feder.l1 government enacted legislation designed to reduce hazards in Ihe work area, thcreby reducing accidents. The Occupational Safety and
~
33
34 , ,
C/WIER 2
Health Act (OSHA) covers a broad "!ngc of 5.1fety maners. Employers who fa il (0 follow its niles can be severely fined. Unfonun:l1cly, human error is the leading cause of accidents, and no amount of legislation can protect someone
who doesn '( work in a 5.1fe manner. Safe behavior on the ;ob reflects pride, professionalism and considcmlion for fellow workers. The following list shou ld alen you to conditions and activities aimed al prc\'cnting accidents and injuries:
• Clean up spills as soon as the}' occur. • Learn \0 operate equipment properly; always use guards and s:lfety devices. • \X'ear clothing that fils properly: avoid wearing jewelry, which may get c:llLght in equipment. +
Use knives and OI:her e
+ WlIlk, do 110t nm. + Keep exits. aisles and stairs clear and 11llobstmcted.
• Always assume pots and pans are hot handle them with dry towels. • Position pot and pan handles out of the aisles so that they do not get bumped. • Get help or use a Gin when lifting or moving he:lv)' objects. • Avoid back injury by lift ing with your leg Illuscles: stoop, dOlft bend. when lifting. • Use a well-pl:tced ladder or stool for climbing: do not use a chair. box, drawer or shelf. • Keep breakable iTems away from food STorage or production areas. • \'('arn people when you mllst walk behind them. especially when carrying a hot pan. Some accidents will inevitably occur, and it is imponam to act appropriately in the event of an injury or emergency. nlis may mean c::tlling for help or providing first aid. Every food service operation should be equipped with a complete first -:lid kit. Municipal regulations may specify the exact contents of the kit. Be sure that the kit is conveniently located and well stocked at all times. The American Red Cross :md local public hC:lhh departments offer tr:lining in first aid, cardiopulmon:lry resuscit:ltion (CPR) :lI1d the Heimlich Maneuver used for choking victims. All employees should be t!":lined in b:lsic emergency procedures. A list of emergenc), telephone numbers should be posted by each telephone.
tfjONCLUSION All food service workers are responsible for supplying food that is safe to eal. Microorganisms that cause food-borne illnesses are found in :llltypes of food: they can be destroyed, or their growth Gm be severel}' limited by proper foodhandling procedures. By learning about food contaminants. how they are spread and how they can be prevented or controlled, you c::tn help ensure customer safety. You are also responsible for your own physical safety as well as that of your customers and fellow workers. M:lintaining sanitary and s:lfe facilities as well as high standards of personal hygiene arc neceSS:lr), parts of this responsibility.
FOOD SAFb7Y AND SANfTA710N
, QUESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION 1. Foods can be contaminated in several ways. E.xplain the differences
1 3. !.
5.
between biological, chemical and physical contamination. Give an example of each. Under what conditions will bacteria thrive? Explain what you can do to aller these conditions. What is the temperallLre danger zone? What is its significance in food preparation? Explain how improper or inadequate pest management can lead to foodborne illnesses. Define HACCP. How is this system used in a typical food service fa cility?
~
35
HAPTER
3
I
UTRITION
=== ~ ==
After slUdying this chapler, you witl be able 10: <"'0..
identify categories of nUirients
<"'Io!l.
and explain their impon:lOce in a b:ll:tnced diet lIndersl:lOd the effects storage and preparation techniques have on v:lrious foods' nutri-
lional values ~
apprecbte the use of ingredient
substitutes and alternat ives ~ unders!:md product nutrition la-
bels ~
provide diners with mHrilious
foods
tnee the days of prehistoric blllllers tllld gatberers, people bcwe understood that some anilllais alld pIC/illS are good to eat and olbel's are 1101. For IbOllstmcis of years, clIllures worldwide have attributed medicinal or beneficial effects 10 ce,1aiu foods, pCl1ticlllar~)1 pla1lls, and have recognized tbat foods tbat wOllld otherwise be fine to eat may be unhealtby if improper~y prepared or stored. But not ll1lfil tbe past few decades bave people become increasingly cOl/cemed about II I1c1elStullding bUill tt11 foods affect their health (//ld
wbat foods Ctlll alld sbolild be cOllsIlmed ill order to promote good bealtb. lhese concerns compose tbe SlUt~y of nllfrition. nJis chapter cannot provide till ill-deptb study of tbe nllfrltiollal sciences. Ratbel; It setsfortb basic III/ormation about mlfrfel/ts, food additives, and ingredient subs/illites and a/lema/lves. 1/ also provides gUidelil1es/or readillg package labels altd preparil1g IIlIt/1UOUS meals. Detailed IlIltriliolltif ill/orlllatioll abolll mtllly specific foods is found throughout lbe book. All recipes are accompanied by a IIlIIn'tional analysis; recipes for dishes pal1;CUfclr~)1 low ill calories, fat or sodium are marked witb a .,,::.&:,. .
Nutrition is the science that studies nutrientS, (chemiC""Jl) substances found in food, that nourish the bod}' by promoting growth, mainten,mce and repair and by facilitating body functions. Some nutrients also provide energy. The six categories of nutrients are carbohydrates, fats, proteins, vitamins, mincrals :md water. Essential nutrients are thosc that must be pro\'ided by food because the body docs nO( produce them in sufficient quantities or cannot make them at all. Some nutrition:11 components :Ire considered nonesscnlial because healthy, well-nourishcd bodies can make them in sufficiem quantities to salisfy their needs. Our bodies depend upon Ihc various nUlrients for differem purposes and require different :lmoums of each depending on agc, sex and health. In addition, some nutrients depend on one another for proper functioning. For example, calcium and vitamin D work together in Ihe body: Vitamin D promotcs the absorption of the calcium Ihm the body utilizes for proper bone growth. Because f<XXIs differ with regard to their nutritional content, it is impon:lnt to eat :1 \'ariety of foods in order to achieve a proper nutritional balance.
ESSEN17AL NUTRIENlS Calorie-lre unif oj f!l1l'fX)' 1I/1.'r1Sl1rf!f/ by tbe mll0ll1l1 of betll retjllirwilO mis$ 1()()() gmlfls of Imler olle (iegrte Cdslm: if is fils(, II'rilff!ll tIS kilocaloneor keal.
TIlfee of the essential nutrientS provide a .lorics or energy. Sometimes referred to as macronlltricnts, they are carbohydnucs, fms and proleins. A calorie (abbrevbled J..'Caf) is Ihc way we describe the amount of energy in food. TIle number of adories in a food is measured by a devicc allied a calOrimeter, which burns the food and me:lsures the heat {he food givcs off.
Nl!l1i(J10N
TABLE 3. 1 -.. EssE.VfIAL NurRI ~\'lS
b-.ential nutrients are those Ihal must be provided because the human body does 001 produce them in sufficient qU:l!1lilics. TIley arc: &11!18Y XII/riellls
Carbohydrnles fats (lincolic and linolcnhc acids)
Proleios (Ihe amino adds: histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine. phenylal;mine, threonine, trYpiophan and valine) Watt'" li/amillS (Ihbmine, riboflavin. niacin, p:lntolhenic acid, biolin, vitamin 1lG, vitamin Bll, folate. vitamin C, vitamin A, vitamin 0 , vitamin E and vitamin K)
Mlllemls(cJlcium. chloride, magnesium, phosphorous. poIassium, sodium, sulfur,
st:icnium, zinc, chromium, copper, fluoride, iodide, iron, manganese, Jnd molybdenum)
From that measurement, an estimate for how the food would IX! burned in the hod)' is C'Jlcul:ued. The resuhs of thai calculation are the calorie designations
assigned to the energy nutrienLS. One gmm of pure flit supplies 9 kcal; one gram of pure carbohydrate supplies 4 kcal, as does one gram of pure protein. Most foods are a combination of carbohydrates. proteins and fats; their kcal contenl may not be easily determined unless we know how much of each nutrient the food contains. Vitamins and rninemls :Ire essenri ~11 nutrients and must be provided through the diet because the body cannot manufacture them in quantities adequate to ensure go<xl health. They have no c'llories. Because they are needed in ~maller amounLS than the O{her nutrienLS. they are sometimes referred 10 as the micronutrients.
CCirbobydrates C:lrbohydr::l1es comprise carbon, hydrogen and oxygen and are found exclusively in plant foods and milk sugars. Simple carbohydrates include monosaccharides (single sugars) and dis:lccharides (double sugars). See Table 3.2. ~imple carbohydrates are found in the naturall}' occurring sugars in fmil , vegetables :mc1 milk. as well as sweeteners such as honey, corn syrup and table sug:tr. Complex carbohydrates are composed of long chains of the monosaccharide glucose. Starch is a complex C"Jrbohydrate. Complex carboh}'drates 3re found in vegetables, fmiLS and cereal grains such as wheat, barley and O'Jts. TIle body digests (or breaks down) these sugars and starches into glurose. Glucose, :tlso known liS blood sugar, is :1 veI1' imponant source of energ)' for the body. Another complex c,lrbohydrate is fiber. Fiber is a unique carbohydrate beC'JUSC humans cannot digest it, so they do not derive calories from it. Dietary fiber, which generally comes from the seeds and cell walls of fruits , vegetables and cereal gr:.lins, plays an impon:tnt role in health. Because the body c:tnnot digest diem", fiber, it passes through the digestive system almost completely unchanged. This helps keep the digestive t!"Jct running smoothly. Fiber in(rc~scs fccal bu lk , which encour::lges proper elimination of waste products from the large intestines and helps avoid some fonns of gastrointestinal distress. Some forms of fiber also reduce serum cholesterol.
39
40
CiIAf'l'ER 3
TABLE
3.2
oN> SUGARS
Monosaccharides
Disaccharides
Glucose (blood sugar) Fructose (fruit sugar) Galactose (part of milk sugar)
lactose (milk sugar) Maltose (malt sugar) Sucrose (table sugar)
Pats Fats, like carbohydrates, are composed of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. The differences between carbohydrates :lIld fats are the number and arrangement of the carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms. Fats are found in both 3nimal and plant foods, although fnlits conlllin very little fat. Fats provide calories, help carry fat soluble vitamins and give food a creamy, pleasant mouthfeel. Depending upon their SinlClU re, the fats in foods can be classified as saturated, monoun&1mrated or polyunsaturated. Most foods contain a combination of the three, allhough one kind may predominate. If saturated fat is the most abund1nt kind (as in the fat surrounding muscle meats), we describe the food as being saturated even though it contains a mixture of all three fats. Saturated faIS are found mainly in animal produCts such as milk, eggs and meats, as well as in tropical oils such as coconut and palm. Monounsaturated fats come primarily from plants :md plant foods such as avocados and olives and the oils made from them. Polyunsaturated fats come from plants (soy and corn, for example) and fish. Vegetable oils like rapeseed (canola) and olive are high in monounsaturated fat. Cottonseed, sunflower, com and &1mOWer oils are high in polyunsaturated fat. All oils, however, are a combination of the three kinds of fat. Samrated fats such as buner, lard and other animlll fats are usually solid at room temperature. Monounsaturated and polyunsaturdted fats are usually liquid at room temperature. Hydrogenation is a process by which a liquid fat is made more solid (or sllturated) by the addition of hydrogen atoms. Hydrogenation increltses the percentage of s:tturated fatty acids, resulting in a more solid product (such as margarine made from a polyunsaturated oil like corn oil). It also reduces the tendency to rancidity so shelf life is increased. The body has more difficulty brellking down saturated fats than it does monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats. Research suggests that high-fat diets, especially diets high in salllTated fat , may be linked to heart disease, obesity and cenain fom1S of cancer. Saturated fats are also linked to high levels of blocxl. cholesterol, which are associated with arteriosclerosis (hardening of the arteries). Although the liver can produce all the cholesterol the body needs, additional cholesterol is often provided in the diet. Dietary cholesterol is found only in foods of animal origin. Meats, poultry, fish , shellfish, eggs and dairy produCts are all sources of dietllry cholesterol. Fmits, vegetables and grains are cholesterol free.
Proteins Proteins are found in both animal and plant foods. They differ from carl)Qhy+ dmtes and fats in that they contain nitrogen as well as carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. Protein chains consist of amino acids, the bUilding blocks of protein.
Numfl10N TIle1e are 20 amino acids, 9 of which are essential. People who eat a varied
diet with ade
Water TIle human IxxIy is approximately 60% water. \Valer is necessary for tmnsporting nutriems and wastes throughout the body. [t cushions the cells, lubriGues thc joims, maintains stable body tempemtures and assists waste elimination. [t also promotes functioning of the nervous system and muscles. Although the princip:tJ sources of water are ~\·emges. water is also the predominant nutrient by weight in most foods. Some foods such as tomatoes. oranges, w:Herme1on and iceberg lettuce are particularly high in water. Others such as dried fruits, nuts :lnd seeds are lower. Water is also formed by the body whcn other nutrients are met:lOOlized. The average adult should consume at least 8 to to glasses (64 fluid ounces or 2 liters) of wate r a day to ensure adequate intake. People who exercise should replace body water lost through sweat by drinking more.
Vitamins
1!It.
41
Acidulated wate r----a mi/(/I)' acklic soIulion of urtfer alld lemOIl juice or tillegar IISW' kJ pre!'f'I11 oll/ruils alld 1"I'gt'/(1b/l'$from dmwlillg. Artesian·well water-flwler ooltlilledfrom all 11fI(1ergrowu'somre; IDe urtler rises /() the suifta IInder pre$SlIrr. Bottled water__my U'(IIer, eilher stili or sparklillg. l!xlf is boIfll'd all(' sokl Deionized water-u'(ller thnllx/S had /be C(l1it:J1IS «lid alliol/S rt/I/OI.W~' passil/g il OfV'l' (I
bed of ioll-ercJ){lIIge reM/IS.
DemineraliJ.cd water-waler IbnllxlS batl (llIlhe millerols alld impllrilits rrIllOf"ed~' /){lSIillg it OIV'1' 0 bft, of ioll-excballge reM/LS. Distilled watc r-u'(Iler 1!x11!xIS!xul(/lllbemiller(lis (llId impurilies remo/"et' Ibrollgb rllslillowlI; il is gt'1lemlly llsed/or ph(lmulCI!Illicn1 purposes. Drinking water-u-aler lbol wml!S from (I 8OI'f!77II1/€1II-opprot"ed source (111(/ /xis U/U!ergollt sollie Irea/lllmi (llId jillmlioll; il ((III be boIfla/ or (II'i1iltlb/e 011 "1/1 till(' is I/Sf'('for drillkillg allli getleral clilinar,. PIif/XlWS. Fluoridated water-I.mler, eilher lI(lllIflllly jlllOrit.ltlled or fretl/ff/ mlb {/ jlllorille-COlllaillillg compolilld illll!llliel'lo prolllole be(lllby leetb by pre!'e1lh"lIgloolb dtruy. Hard water-utller /lilb 1"I'U1h"/"t'ly bigb wldlllll (/lId lIIagllesilllll Wllwllmlitms.
MincraJ water- drinking Imler l!xll comes from (I proilXltd ulu/ergrollnd u"(Iler source (llId WIIWillS oll«lsl 250 paris PI!" mineral of IoIfIl disso/m'so/uJs su(b ILS mldlllli.
Vitamins arc vital dicta ry substances necded to regulate metabolism and for Natural water-boillet/ dril/klllg Imler 1101 denormal gro\\1h :lnd bod)' funClions. They :lre essential and nonclloric, and ril"edfrom a mlillicipal u-aler slIpply; iI COli be mil/ertll. spring, u"l!il or urlesidll-u"l!il u-aler. needed in the body in small amounts. There are 13 vitamins. Table 3.3 lists them, their princilXtl fund ions in the Purifled water--IXJIlled 1/"IIIer prot/lieN/ by human Ixxly. the foods that contain high concentrations of these nutrients and dislilltllioll, rf't"f'7'Se osmosis, deioniZillioll or suilSOUle of the prepamtion and stomge techniques th:1t help retain the maximum able /Jt'fJCesSl5lballlll'i'f got'f!77II11I!11I(/1 sltmdtlrrir. amount of Ihe various vitamins in their food sources. Selner watef'--(I jlal'QrlRSS lui/llmlmineral Vitamins are divided into two categories: f:1t soluble and water soluble. TIle utller /lilb mrbol/(Ilion. origillallyjrom lbe Gerfat-soluble vitamins are A. D, E and K and are found in foods containing fat. Ex- 11/11111011'11 ofNiff/!!r Si!I/ers. cess supplies of these vitamins may be stored in fauy tissues and the liver. Soda water----a j/m'Orless uyi/er witb fndllw mrlx)IIolion WllSUlllet' plain or USff' (IS (/ mim" \~Jter-soltlble vitamins are vitamin C and the B complex vit:lnlins, including thifor (lkobolic. drillir or SOt/(I/oIIII/(lill con/edioILS: ~min (ilL), rihofbvin (B2). niacin (83). cyano-cob:l!:unin (BIz). pyridoxine (~), 1100 1i1l1)ll'1I11J" dl/b 5A)t./lilIfld seltzer. pantothenic acid. biotin and fola te. Vitamins 13 1 and 132 are commonly refern..>d Soft water-UYl/fY uilb a rt'Iolirt'ly bigb 10 b)' their names. thiamin and rioonavin, respectively; where:ls cob..llamin and prridoxine are commonly referred to by their letter design:lIions, B\! and I~, re- !l){HulII COIICl!lIIro/iQII. specti\'ely. Water-soluble vitamins are nOI stored to the extent 111:11 fat-soluble vi- Spring water-flYller obItlilletifrom (1111111tamins are. and excesses may be excreted in the urine. Because of these differ- dergrQlllld source /!xll jIou"S 1IIIIIIflllly fo /he et,,/b~ SlI1jtl«. ences, deficiencies in water-soluble vitamins llsllally develop more rapidly. \~nually all foods contain some vit:lmins. Many factors contribute 10 :I p:utkular food's vitamin concentration : an animal's feed; the manner by which the Metabolism--(llIlbe ciJf!mictll mu:/io/LS (111(1 produce is harvested, slOred or processed; even the type of soil, sunlighl, rain- pb)~iCiIII}1"()(~ l!xll coll/il/i/(/lly OCCllr /11 Iilill8 fall and temperJ.ture have significlnt effects on a food's vita min content. For cells alUl orgtJllisliLS. example, tomatoes h:lve a higher concentmtion of vitamin C when picked ripe
42
<"'2\,
TABLE
CIIAPTER 3
3.3
.h> V,TAM,NS: THEIR FUNCTIONS, SOURCES AND TECIINIQ UF~ FOR RETAINING MAxIMUM
NUTRIENT Co~TFJvr Vitamin
Fundions in the Human Body
Sources
Techniques for NllIrient Readion
Vitamin A
Keeps skin healthy; protem eyes: protects mouth and nose linings; supports immune functioning
Deep yellow and orange vegetables, leafy green vegetables, deep orange fruits, egg yolks, liver, fortined milk
Serve fmits and vegetables raw or lightly cooked; store \"cgetables covered and refrigermed; steam vegetables; roaSt or broil meats
Vit:lmin D
Helps body absorb calcium; regubles calcium and phosphorous in the bones; assists bone mineralization
Fortified milk, buner, some fish oils, egg yolks (exposure to sunlight produces vitamin D in the body)
It is stable under heat and insoluble in water; therefore it is unaffected by cooking
Vitamin E
Antioxidant; protects membranes and cell walls
Vegetable oils, whole grains, dark leafy vegetables, wheat germ, nuts, seeds, whole grains
Use whole-grain nOllrs; store focx:ls in ainight containers; avoid exposing the food to light and air
Vitamin K
Assists blood-clotting proteins
Liver, dark green leafy vegetables (bacteria in the intestinal track also produce some vitamin K)
Steam or microwave vegetables; do not overcook meats
Vitamin C t :lscorbic acid)
Supports immune system rune~ . . .. tlolllng: repairs connecllve tiSsues; promotes healing; assists :Imino acid metaoolism
Cilrus fruits, green.. vegetables, strawberries, cantaloupes, tomatoes, broccoli , potaloes
Serve fruits and vcgetables raw; steam or microwav~ \'egetables
TIliamin (Vitamin (3 1)
Assists energy metabolism: supports nelVous system functioning
Meats (especially pork), legumes, whole grains
Use enriched or whole-grain pasta or rice; do not wash whole grains before cooking or rinse afterwards; steam or microwa\'e vegetables: roast meats at moderate temperatures; cook meats only until done
Ribof1avin (Vitamin BJ
Assists energy metabolism
Milk, cheese, yogun, fish, enriched grain breads and cereals, dark green leafy vegetables
Store foods in opaque containers: roast or broil meals or poultry
Niacin (Vitamin 13~)
Promotes normal digestion; sup~rts nelVous system functioning; assists energy metabolism
Meats, poUltry. fish, dark green leafy vegetables, ~hole grain or enriched breads and cereals, nuts
Steam or microwave vegetables: roast Or broil beef, veal, lamb :md poultry (pork retai~ about the same amount of niacin regardless of cooking method)
Necessary for protein metabolism :lnd red blood cell formation
MealS, fish, poultry, sheHnsh, whole gl"Jins, dark green vegetables, potatoes, li~er
Serve \'egetables raw; cook focx:ls in a minimum amount of water and for the shonest possible time; roast or broil mea~ and fish
Vitamin 13 12
Helps produce red blood cells: assists metabolism
Animal foods only, p..1nicularly milk, eggs, poultry and fish
Roast or broil meats, poultry and fi,h
Folate
Neees.~ary
Orange juice, dark green leafy vegetables, organ meats, legumes,
Serve vegetables raw; steam or microw;lVC vegctablcs; 'store \'cgelables co\'cred and refrigerated
,
for protein met:lbolism and red blood cell formalion
.ee'"
Biotin
Coenzyme in energy metllbolism. glycogen synthesis and fat mei:lIXllism
Widespread in foods
PantOthenic Acid
Coenzyme in energy melabo!ism
Widespread in foods
Nf.lTRmoN
from Ihe vine {h:m when picked green. Furthennore. different varieties of fruits and vegetables h;lve different Vi{;lmin contents. A Wegener apple. for example. has 19 Illg of vit;lmin C, where;ls a Red Delicious has only 6 mg. You c:ln control vitamin concentration and retemion through careful food preparation: I. Try to prepare \'egetables as dose to service time as possible; vegetables
cut long before service lose more \'itamins than Ihose cut immediately be-
fore cooking. 2 Whether a vegetable is boiled. steamed or microwaved also determines the amount of vilamins it ret:lins. Because the B complex vitamins and vitamin C are water soluble, they are t'a!;ily k
Minerals Minerals cannot be m:lOuf:lctured by the body. They are obtained by eating plants Ih:!! have drawn minerals from the ground or the flesh of animals [hal have eaten such plants. Minerals are a critical component in hard and softlissues (for example, the calcium. magnesium and phosphorus presem in bones and teeth).l\linerals also regulate certain ncress.11)' body funct ions. For example, nen'e impulses are transmitted through an exchange of sodium and potassium ions in the nerve cells. Minerals are divided into two categories: trace minerals and major minerals. Trace minerals such as iron are needed in only vel)' small amounts. l\'lajor minl'l'lls such :IS calcium are needed in relalil'ely larger quantities. Table 3.4 lisLS some minerals, their principal functions in the human body and the foods that contain high concemrations of these nutrienLS. As with vitamins. food processing and preparation can reduce a food's mineml content. Soaking or cooking in large amountS of water can le3ch out small quantities of water-soluble minerals. Processing or refining grains, sllch as lhe wheat used 10 make white flour, also removes minerals.
43
~
LIGHTEN Up!
On the night before their trials on the Colosseum floor, gladiators ate meat to make themselves strong. Until a feoN }-ears ago, mcxlem-day gl:uliators and coaches insisted that athletes needed meat the night before the game. Of course, being more SCientific, they referred to their training-table steak as protein. TImes change, the pendulum S\lings, and woo C'o-er thought a brmmy athlete lI'Quld admit 10 being a l'CgCIarian? The new message from The American Heart Association and the U.S. Dietal)' Goals is that v..e needn't st~ eating meal entirely. Instead, we should reduce our consumption of beef, turning to altemalh-e soun:es of protein such as fish, poultry, l(Mfat dairy products, nuts, beans and seeds, and increase our consumption of fresh fruits, l'egetables, grains and other complex carbohydf"".ttes. The results: fell'er falS, more fiber and lower cholesterol. helping 10 create a slimmer. energetic, longer-lasting body. This new "fresh:' "nutrient-dense:' hligllt," "naluml," "heart-healthy"" approach to dining has gone from fad to fashIon to fact of life. From fonnal French to Mexican fast food, facilities offering portions of imlO\'3.li\'e, tasty, €}'e-calChing healthy cuisine will surely ",in allegiance and accolade; from patrons. So lighten up. Replace the deep·fat fryer with a griddle. Garnish with fresh fruit. Serre whole grain hread, but take heed: Balance is paramount. All occasional indulgence is a joy. There lIill alwa)~ be room for chocolate.
GowFs,jormerly F.w.'Clltil-e Chef of E/iulbelb Artim ~ AWNe CifA.,\"CB Hwm RESOKT, currently OIi'11S ({lid operates
IV.RRIS
7AAVGUiS RESlilVT«.\7 ill Ui JoUn,
EATING FOR HEALTH It is genemlly rcrognized that a balanced diet is an important component of a
ht'alth}' lifeslyle. Eating well and exercising can contribute to a longer, healthier life.
Heal!b Organization Recommendations Planning :1 diet to enhance heallh is made simpler by diet and exercise rcrommendations from organizations such as The American Hean Association and
Clllifonlin. GoIdm is also the au/bar of luv cooiboots.
44
•
TABLE
CIW'l7iR 3
3.4 "'"
Mineral
M INERALS: THEIR FUNCfIONS AND SoURCES
Functions in the Human Body
Sources
Helps build bones and teeth; helps blood clot; pro-
Dairy productS, canned salmon and sardines, broccoli, kale, tofu , turnips
Major minerals: Calcium
mOleS muscle and nerve functions i\'lagnesium
Phosphorus
Muscle entraction; assiSlS energy metabolism; bone formation
Green leafy vegetables, whole grains, legumes, fish, shellfish, cocoa
Helps build bones and teeth; assists energy metab-
All :lnim31 tissues, milk, legumes, nuts
olism; fom13tion of DNA
Potassium Sodium
i\laimains electrolyte and fluid balance; promotes oorm:1I body functions; assists protein metabolism
Meals, poultry, fish, fruits Cespedally bananas, oranges, and cantaloupes), legumes, vegetables
Maintains normal fluid balance; necessary for nerve
Salt, soy sauce, processed foods, MSG
impulse Irnnsmission Chloride
With sodium, involved in fluid balance; component of SlOmach acid
Salt, soy sauce, meatS, milk, processed foods
Sulfur
A component of some proteins, insulin, and the vilamins biOI in and thiamin
All protcin-containing foods
lroo
Part of hemoglobin (the red substance in blood that carries oxygen); prevents anemia
uver, meats, shellfish, enriched breads and cereals, legumes
Zinc
A component of insulin; enhances healing; a component of many enzymes; involved in taste perception; bone formation
Protein foods, whole-grain breads and cereals. fish, shellfish. (X>Uitry, \·egetables
Selenium
Antioxidant
Fish, shellfish, meats, eggs, gmins (depends on soil conditions)
Iodine
Component of thyrOid hormone
Iodized salt, fish, shellfish, bread, plants grown in iodide-rich soil
Copper
Facilitates iron absorptiOn; pan of enzymes
Meats, fish, shellfish, nutS, seeds
Necessary for bone and teeth formation: helps teeth resist tooth decay
Fluoridated drinking water, fish, shellfish
Chromium
Insulin cofactor
Liver, whole gmins, brewer's yeast, nuts, oils
Molylxlenum
Cofactor in metabolism
Legumes. cereals
~t3nganese
Cofactor in metabolism
Whole gmins, nuts. organ meats
CoOOh
Component of vitamin 8 12 (cobalamin)
Trace mjl1eruis:
,.fluoride
•
'-
The American Cancer Society. Both stress the imponance of controlling the amount of fat in the diet and consuming in greater quantities plant foods such as vegetables, fruits and whole grains. Another useful planning tool is The Dietary Guidelines /or Americalls, published by the federal government. The seven guidelines recommend moderating the consumption of fat , cholesterol, sugar, salt and alcohol while increasing the consumption of grains, fruits and vegetables. Moderation and variery are !he guidelines' key concepts. The guidelines suggests thaI you should:
NUTRfl10N
1. E.1t a variety of foods. 2 Balance the food )'ou eal with physical activiry to maintain or improve your weight. 3. Choose a diet with plenty of grain products. \'egetables and fruilS. 4. Choose a diet low in f:lt, saturated fat and cholesterol. 5. Choose a diet moderate in sugars. 6: Choose a diet moderate in salt and sodium. 7. If yOlL drink alcoholic beverages. do so in moderation.
TIle Recommended Dielmy Allowance Recommended Dietary Allowances (RDAs) were first established during World War II to provide a guideline for assessing tbe enlisted men's diets and planning the military's meals. The ROM have been updated periodically since then. nlesc ujxlates arc based on carefully scnnil1ized research and data from both human and animal studies. TIle IWAs represent nutrient recommendations to prevent deficiency diseases and are considered generous allowances that provide a margin of safety. The ROAs are used to evalu:lte the diets of Americans as a group, to establish guidelines for programs such as school breakfasts and lunches, for food l:tbeling infomlation and to develop government nutrition poliCies and educational progrJ.ms.
TlJeFood Guide Pyramid The most useful diet planning tool :wailable is the Food Guide Pyramid developed b)' the USDA. It prioritizes and proponions food according 10 groupings that provide similar nutrientS. TIle size of each section of the pyramid visually represents the nllmber of daily ser.'ings recommended. The base or foundation of the pyramid conveys the idea that a healthy diet is based on the consumption of adequate whole grains and cereals. As yOll move up the pyr:ullid, fruits and \'egetables are next in amount. j\·leals, poullry, fish, beans, eggs and nuts, :IS well as milk, yogurt and cheese are allotted smaller sections above the fruits and vegetables. Although they provide essential nutrients such as protein , vitamins and minerals, these foods may be high in fa! and calories, and their intake should be moderated. The small tip of the
<"V!V'r>
""f\,
45
===
FOOD GROUPIES
For many years, nutritionists and others ha\'e attempted 10 define a healthy, balancal dieL Most plans di\ide foods into general caIfgones and recommend thal a certain number of servin~ or calories be consumed from each category for a balanced diet. Before 1956, the USDA recognized !ie\~n Food groups, (1) """., em, dried peas on
garine. In 1956, the USDA reduced the !ie\'en
groups to four: (I) milk and cheese, (2) mealS and fish, (3) fruits and vegetables and (4) grains. An optional fifth category was sweets and falS. From these Four Basic Food Grou~ the USDA recommended the average adult eat a lOla! of 12 senings daily. ~ or more sen;ngs should come from each of the meat and milk grou~ and four or more servings from each of the other two groups. In 1992, the USDA replartd the Four Basic Food Groups \\ith the Food Guide Pyramid. The Food Guide P'iramid prioritizes and Prc,>Ortioru; the food choices among the six food categories and ghe<; a ~;sual presentation of proper daily nutrition. The pyramid emphasizes flexibility and is designed to be used by peq>le of all ages and backgrounds.
A Guide to
u-= ---_ .. --"~
o ~=_
FtGUR[ll
Tbe FoodGlIidePymmid
46 TABLE
CIWI>W 3
3.5 "'"
SERVINGS AND SELECTIONS FROM TIlE FOOD GUIDE PYRAMID
Food Group and Serving Size
Nutrients PrO\'ided
Selection Tips
B vitamins. fiber. iron. magnesium, zinc
Choose whole-grain breads, cereals and grains like whole wheat or rye bread, oatmeal and brown rice. Moder""Jte the intake of high-fat, high-sugar baked goods like cakes, cookies and pastries. limit falS and sugars added as spreads, sauces or toppings.
Vitamin A, vitamin C, folate , magnesium. iron, fiber
Eat a variety of veget:lbles, induding dark green leafy vegetables (e.g.. spinach and broccolO, deep-yellow vegetables (e.g., carrOts and sweet potatoes), .~tarchy vegetables (e.g., potatoes and corn). legumes (e.g., kidney beans) and other \'egetables such as green beans and wmatoes. Cook \'egetables by steaming or baking. Avoid frying and limit high-fat spreads or dressings.
Vitamin A, vitamin C. poIassium, fiber
Choose fresh fruit, fruit frozen without sugar, dried fruit Of fruit canned in w:uer or juice. If canned in heavy syrup. rinse with water before eating. Eat whole fruits more often than juices since they are higher in fiber. Regularly eat citrus fruits. melons or berries rich in vitamin C. Only 100% fruit juice should be counted as a fruit.
Protein, calcium, riboflavin
Use skim or lowfat milk for healthy people over two rears of age. Choose lowfal and nonf:11 yogun, "pan skim" :tnd lowfat cheeses and lower-fat frozen dessens like ice milk and frozen yogun. Limit high-fat cheeses :md ice cream.
Bread. Cereal. Rice and Pasta Group (6-11 Sen'jogs)
112 cup cooked cereal I ounce dry cereal I slice bread 2 cookies 1/2 medium doughnut
Vegetable Group (3-5 Servings) 112 cup cooked or r:tw chopped vegetables 1 cup rJW leafy vegetables 3/4 cup vegetable juice 10 french fries Fruit Group (2-1 Se,"ings)
1 medium :lpple. banana or orange 1/2 cup chopped. cooked or canned fruit
3/4 cup fruit
juice \/ 4 cup dried fruil
Milk, Yogurt and Cheese
Group (2-3 Servings) 1 cup milk or yogurt
1 1/2 ounces nalural cheese 2 ounces processed cheese 2 cups cottage cheese I 1/2 cups ice C"rell m I cup frozen yogurt
,
Poultry. Fish, Dry !leans, Eggs and Nuts Group (2-3 Scrvings)
;\-[('3[,
2-3 ounces cooked lean meat, fish or poullry
2-3 eggs 4-6 tablespoons peanut buller
Protein, niaCin, vitamin BIl , iron. zinc
Select lean meat, poultry without skin. fish and dry beans. Trim fat and cook by broiling. roasting. grilling or boUing rather than frying. limit egg yolks, which arc high in cholesterol. and nuts and seeds, which arc high in fat. Be aware of serving size; 3 ounces of meal is the size of an average hamburger.
I l/2 cups cooked dry reJItS 1 cup nUis
Fats, Oils and Sweets (use sparingly) Butter, m:l)'onnaise, s,1l:1d dressing. (Team cheese. sour cream. jam, jelly
These are high in energy and low in micronutrients. Substirute lowfat dressings and spreads.
U.S. Dcp.ulmem of Agricuhure. The Food Gil/de F'JTtllllid. HOllie (/lid Ga rden BlIlI('I/1i 1\'0. 151. H)~IIIS\'ille, MD: Human Kutrition Infommlion
Seryk.;, 1992
Nf/mflTON
========= ~
...a. 47
==========
THE FEDERAL GO~'ER.v,HENT GUARDS O UR LuwER
The fedct.ll gOl'cnullent plays an important role in the way I'arious foodstuffs are grown. raised, siauglllered, proc:essed, marketed, stored and 11artSpOI1ed. 'I1le principal actors are the Food aOO Drug Administration of the U.S. Department ci llealth and Uuman Services (rnA) and the U.s. Department of Agriculture (USDA). 11Ie FOA's activities are directed toWard protecting the nation's health against impure and unsafe foods, as \\'Cll as drugs, cosmetics, med· kaI (\e>,ices :U1d other things. It develops and administers programs addressing food safety. For ex:1lnple. the FDA must approl'C any new foOO 3!kiltil'c before a manufacturer markelS it 10 food producers and PI"OO!SSOl'S. To gain FDA 3J¥O"'aI. dte manufacturer must pl'O\'C to the
rnA's satisfaction that the additi\'C (I) is effecH\'e for the intended purpose, (2) can be detected and measured in the final product and (3) is safe. The FDA holds public hearings duro ing \Io'hich experts and consumers provide evi· dence and opinions before it decides to gt:lllt or deny approval. If it gt:lll1S approval, the rnA issues regulatiOns identifying the amount of the additi\'C that can be used and the foods to which it can be added. The rnA also selS stan· dards for labeling foods, including nutrition la· bels. Labeling regulations not only address the type of infonnation that must be 00Il1'C)'ed, but also the way it is presented. The USDA's principal responsibility is to make sure that individual food items are safe,
ryrJmid includes fats, oils and sweets. The size and pbceme nt of these inclicite that they c:ln be a put of a healthy diet if used sparingly.
INGREDIENTSUBSTITUTES ANDALTERNATIVES More and more people are becoming heallh conscious consumers. l\'lany arc trying to C1.lI down o n foods high in 5<111, fat, added sugar and cholesterol. To a degrt-'t". people can accomplish Ihe ir goals-a nd chefs can assist them-b}' turning to ingredie nt substirutes and alte rn:uives where possible. Here we use the te rm ingredient substitute to mean the repiacemt-'nt of OIlC ingredie nt with anothe r of presumably Similar-although nOt nect-'ssarily identical- fl:lvOT. texture, appearance and o ther characteristics. The substitute may be mo re nutritious. howeve r. So, if .someone is avoiding f:lts, he o r she can use reduced fat or no nfat sour cream in place of regular SOllT cream whe n baking quick breads. TIle differences in fl avo r, texture, appearance and baking quality should be minimal. We use the te rm ingredient alternative to mean the replaceme nt of o ne ingredient with anothe r of different fl avo r, texture, appearance or other charlcteristic, but o ne that will no t compro mise-:lIthough it may change-the fl:tI'or of the dish. As with the ingredient subs titute, the ingrediem alternative may be more nutritious. Lemon juice and herbs, fo r instance, can be used as flavoring alternll1ives to salt ; a salsa of fresh vegetables can replace a cre:Ullbased s:tuce. The dishes will not t,tste the s:tme, but tbey will Sti!l taste good. In atte mpting to modify a recipe, the chef should first ide ntify the ingredient(s) or cooking methodes) that may need to be changed. He or she a m then use the following principles-reduce, replace o r e liminate-to make a dish healthier: 1. Reduce tht-' 31ll0 UnrS of the ingredie nt(s). 2. Replace the ingredient(s) with a substitute that will do the least to change the fl avor and appearance of the dish. 3. Eliminate the ingredienr(s).
wholesome and accurately labeled. It attempts to meet these responsibilities through inspection and grading procedures. TIle USDA also provides consumer serl'ices. It conducts and publishes research on nutrition and assists those producing our food to do so efficiently and effectively. Other federal agencies that hal'\! a role in the nation's health and food su~ly include the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Pre,ention (CDC), which track illnesses, including those caused by food·bome pathogens; the National Institutes of Health (NIH), which do basic biological and nutritional research; and the Department of the Interior, \Io'hich selS environmental and I:1lKl-use standards.
48
CliAYfER 3
Salt Substitutes and Alternatives A concern in the American diet is excessi\'c sodium (s.,lt). TIle average American consumes 3000 to 7000 mg of sodium per day, well in excess of daily
needs. Research has Hnked excessive amounts of sodium 10 hypertension (high blood pressure), heart and kidney diseases and strokes. Chefs can contribute to a more healthful diet by decreasing the amount of
salt and other high-sodium products like soy sauce. Salt substitutes. which contain potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride, are 3\'ailable. "Lite salt has a portion of the sodium content replaced by potassium but still contains some real salt for a truer flavor. In .. JJiliuJI, pt:jJPt:I , h.::moll, hel'b~ , :.pice::., ffuits and flavored vinegars can be used as salt alternatives to heighten flavor.
Artificial Sweeteners Saccharin, the oldest artificial sugar substitute, has been used for nearly a century. A petroleum derivative, it has no calories and tastes 300 times sweeter than table sugar. Saccharin has a bitter aftertaste, however, and many people find it unpalatable. Along with its sweetness, come health concerns. Some studies have linked 5.1ccharin with tumors in rats. Aspartame {also known as NlItrasweet~, approved by the FDA in 1981, comprises the amino acids aspartic acid and phen}'lalanine. Unlike 5.1ccharin, aspartame does nOt have an aftertaste. It is 180 times sweeter than table sugar. It is now widely used in soft drinks. frozen yogurts, fruit spreads. candies and similar products. Aspartame breaks down when heated, so it cannot be used in cooked foods. According 10 the FDA. aspan.1me is a safe substitute for sugar, although it is a risk for those people with the rare disorder phen}'lketonuria (PKU), who C'JnnQ( metabolize the phenylalanine in asparta me. Appropriate warnings lire printed on all asp:utame-sweetened foods. Another sugar substitute is Acesulfame K (:tlso known as Sunnette~, which the FDA approved in 1988. '111e lxxJy cannot metabolize Acesulfame K, so it p:tsses through the digestive system unch:mged. Like aspartame, it has no aftertaste_ Acesulfame K is used in chewing gum, dry bever::lge mixes, inslant coffees and teas, gelatins and nondairy cre:lJllers. [t is more stable than aspartame, so it can be used in baking.
Fat Substitutes and Alternatives Several types of fat substitutes arc available; Ihey are either synthetic or deri\'ed from naturally occu rring food substances. Two of the more recent products are Olestra* and Simplesse*. Oleslra* is made of <;llCfOSP and v('g(,lahl l~ oil. The two :lfe honded together, and the final product consists of molecules too large to be digested. Because it cannQ( be digested, Olestr:t* does not add an~' calories. Currently, Olestr:t* is used in snack foods such as potato chips. It may become a useful sllbstitute for fats in baking or cooking, but health concerns have kept it from being widely available. Simplessc* is a fat substitute uS<.-'d in frozen desserts such as ice creams and }'ogurt. Simplessc", made from egg whites or milk proteins, has a rich, cre-Jmy texlure similar to fat but is fat free. Products made with Simplessc" are nO{ lIslially fat free because other fat-containi ng ingredients are 'Idded. Caprenin and salarim are f:lt substitutes used in the candy industry and not available for home or rest:lllr:tnt usc.
NIJfRf/T()N '"""
49
alber Ingredient Substitutes and Alternatives There are many ()(her ingredient substitutes, some of which are identified in Table 3.6. Often ingredient substitutes and alternatives will have a dramatic impaC! on the nutrition.. l values of a completed dish. For example, in Figures 3.2:1 and 3.2b we list the ingredients for a sheet pan of traditio nal fudge
Addlth"C5----6ubsWlIQIf addetllo mallY foods to {JreI-en1 spoilage or il1lprore (l{lfXfmma, lexJurr,
brownies and one made w ith ingredient substitutes. Note the differences, especially in the values for fm and cholesterol.
(for f!:Xf1mp/t, leciIbi,,).
fill/or or IIIltrili()1Ialmlue; Ibey"'OY be S)711bttic
malerillis afJiedfrom nnlilft (for e:campiR, sugar subslilules) or "alurally oaurring SUbsWlIQIf
Incidental food additives-lbare ;'lIIm:er-
Ingredient substitutes and, especially, ingredient alternatives will change the lelillyor IIIlflllttllkmtllly adtled /{J /ood5 during nutritional values of a dish; Ihey may also cha nge its flavor, texture or ap- [JrQa!ssing, stich as peslickle residues ()11 frllils. pt'3r3nce. Sometimes these changes will be acceptable; sometimes Ihey will hllcntlonal food additi\U----lbare added /{J not. Uecause some ingredient substitutes and alternatives result in unsatisfac- foods 011 PIl/'fJOSe, sllch as (he chemicals IlJeff /{J tory navors, textures or appear3I1CC, many recipes may not be suitable for sub- tt/S1I1'r! 10llger sbelflife or food coIori1/gs. stitution or altenltion. Use your judgment.
PACK4GE LABELING ,n-, In an effort to provide chefs and consumers with greater infomlation about the nutritional values of foods they purchase, the FDA requires that most food products be clearly labeled. The FDA also closely regulates the language used on these labels. TIle FDA labeling requirements address (1) product identification, (2) product claims and (3) nutritional information.
Product Identification The FDA requires that products be dearly labeled with (1) the common name of the product, (2) the name :Ind address of the manufacturer, packer or dis-
TABLE
3.6 .n-.
INGRED1Ell'f SUBSflTIJfES
Instead of
Use
Bacon
Canadi:m bacon or well-cooked, drJined bacon
nuncr
PowdcrL--d buttt:f granules plus liquid (either skim milk or water) or butter-Ilavored oil sprays
Chocol3te
Cocoa (vegetable oil may be added as needed)
Cream chC<."Se
Reduced-fat cream cheese or fat-free cream chL'Cse
Emulsified salad dressing
Start with a base of reduced-fat or nonfat yogurt, sour cream or mayonnaise, then thin with skim milk. Or use ... siully-thickened broth or juke as the oil and add vinegar and OIher seasonings. Or blend silken tofu with OIher ingredients for a creamy dressing
light cream
Equal portions of 1% milk and skim evaporated milk
)'13}'OI'Inaise
RL"tIuced-fat mayonnaise (il can be mixed with reduced-fat or nonfat sour cream)
I
Sour cream
, Whipped cream
Reduced-fat or nonfat sour cream; drained reduced-f:u or nonfat plain yogurt without gelalin Whipped chilled cyaf.XlrJled skim milk; the milk and beaters need to be very cold (needs to be stabilized)
50
CIIAPTER 3
~ ==
TRADITIONAL FUDGE BROWNIES
BACK TO BAsiCS
Great strides in agriculture have been made during the past two centuries. Pesticides, fungici~ and herbicides now eliminate or control pe'its thaI once 1Ir'Oldd ha\'e devoured, ruined or choked c~. Chemical fertilizers increa
The U.S. Department of Agriculture regulales the production and labeling of organically grown foods. It requires that any natural food labeled ·'organic" or carrying the organic seal must be 100% organic-that is, grown and manufactured without the use of added honnones, pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, and so on; soil cannot have been treated with unapproved synthetics for three years for a crop to be called organic. To be labeled organic, processed foods must contain at least 95% organic ingredienls. processed foods with 50-95% organic ingredients may be labeled "made with certain organic ingredients"' and processed foods . . .ith less than 50% organic ingredients may use the word organic only in the list of ingredients.
Yield: 88 2-inch squares Unsweetened chocolate BUller
2 lb. 2 lb.
Eggs Sugar Vanilla extract All-purpose flour Pecan pieces
20 Sib. 12 oz. 2 oz. I lb. 10 oz. lib.
I kg I kg 20 · 2.9 kg 60 011 750 g 500 g
Nutritional \-alues per two-inch square: 343 Total carbohydrate Calories Protein 17 g Total fa t Saturated fat Sodium 9g Cholesterol 70mg Vitamin C
41 g 4g 16 mg
o
The co01plCIe recipe is produced as Recipe 33.26. FIGURE 3.2a
BROWNIES MAnE WITH I NGREDIENT Yield: 88 2-inch squares Unsweetened chocolate Cake flou r Cocoa powder Salt substitute Egg whites Whole eggs Granulated sugar Corn symp Unsweetened applesauce Ca nola oil Vanilla extract
SUBSTmrms
4 oz. l ib .
9 oz. 2 lsp. 12 8 2 lb. 2 oz. 2 lb. I 1/2 pI.
7 oz. 2 Thsp.
Nutritional values per two-inch square: Calories 150 TQ(al carbohydrate 5g Protein Total fal Satu rated fat .8 g Sodium Cholesterol 19 mg Vitamin C
120 g 450 g 270 g JO Illl
12 8 I kg
900 g 670011 210 g 30 ml
26 g 2g 82 Illg
4 mg
The complete reCipe is produced as Recipe 33.27. FIGURE
3,2b
tributor, (3) the ingredients in descending order of predominance by weight and (4) Ihe net coments by weight, measure or count. Sec Figure 3.3.
Product Claims The FDA requires that words such as ~ low fat" and "fat free~ be used according 10 specific standards. The FDA has approved the follow ing uses:
Numll10N
FROZEN MIXED VEGETABLES r - - - - IN SAUCE
Swilional 0,lI\Il.'Il\ daimt
--+-
~ IrweJient list In descmhng order by weight
- - - j - - - soybean
Ingredients: Broccoli, carrots, green beans, water chestnuts, oil, milk: solids, modified cornstarch, salt, spices.
"Whtle many factors affect hean disease, diets low in saturated fat and cholesterol may reduce the risk: of this disease."
FiGlRE 3.3 whetillustratillg Product IdentifiCtlfion and Prot/uct elllfm Reqllirements Illustration Source: FoocI 3011 Ontg Administration 1993
food must contain no or only "physiologically inconsequential ~ amQlLnlS of fat, Salurated fa t, cholesterol, sodium, sugars or calories. + lolli, Litlle, Few(IIlll Low SOllrce oj-The food can be eaten frequently without exceeding dietary guidelines for fat, Salurated fat, cholesterol , sodium or calories. + Froo-The
Specific uses include: Low fa~TIle food has 3 grams or less of fat per serving. 1.olllsalllrafedja~The food has 1 gram or less of satur3ted fat per serving; not more than 1;% of serving's calories are from saturated fat. loU/sodium-The food has 140 mg or less of sail per serving. Very low sodiuIII-The food has 3; mg or less of sail per serving. 1.01/1 cholestero~The food has 20 mg or less of cholesterol per serving. I.oWctl/oriL"-The food has 40 ca lories or fewer per serving. Redllced, less {llIdjewer-TIle nUlTitionally ahered proouC! must contain at least 2;% fewer calories than the regular or reference (that is, FDA standard) food product. Ughl or Lite-TIle nutritionally altered product must contain:lI least one third or ; 0% less fat than the reference product. Light in sodium means that the nutritionally altered proouo contains )()% or less sodium than the regular or reference proouo. Ught may slill be used to describe color, as in ~ Iighl brown sugar."
1--__ lieaJlh (diel-dise2!e link) daillL (Back panel)
51
52
CHAP77!R 3 Hig~The
foocl must contain 20% or more of the daily value for a
desirable nutrient per serving. More-TIle food muSt contain :ll leasl 10% or more of the daily value for protein , vitamins, minerals, dietary fiber or potassium than the reference product.
Good source-The food contains 10% to 19% of the daily value per serv· ing for the spedfic nutrient slich as calcium or dictary fiber. Leall-The meat, poultry, game, fish or shellfish item contains less than 10 grams of fat , less than 4 grams of satunlled fat and less than 95 mg cholesterol per serving and per 100 grams. B:lra leal/-The meat , poultry, game, fish or shellfish item contains less than 5 grams of fal , less than 2 gJ"Jl11S of saturated fat and less than 95 mg cholesterol per serving and per 100 grarns.
TABLE
3.7
J'7> D IET-DISEASE
liNKs
AND APPROVED HEAUII CL\lMS
Food or Nutrient
Disease
Typical Foods
FDA-Approved Cla,im
Calcium
Osteoporosis
Lowf:u and skim milks, yogurt, tOfu, calciumfortified citrus drinks, some calcium supplements
Sodium
Hypertension
Dielary fiber
Cancer
Diet:l.ry salUmted fat and cholesterol
Coronary heart disease
Unsalted tuna, salmon, fruits and vegetables, low fat milk and yogurt, cottage cheese; sherbet, cereal, flour and pasta (not egg pasta) Fruits, vegetables, reducedfat milk products, cereals, flours , sherbet Fruits, vegetables, skim and lo\\fat milks, cereals, wholegrain products, pasla (not egg pasta) Fruits and vegetables, and whole-grain breads and cereals
-Regular ex~rcise and a healthy diet with enough calcium helps teen and young adult white and Asian women maintain good bone health and may reduce their high risk of osteoporosis later in life: ~ Diets low in sodium may reduce the risk of high blood pressure, a disease associated with many factors ."
fruits, vegeubles , Cancer and gmin prodUClS that contain fiber Fruits, vegelables and gr.lin products that contain fiber
Coronary heart disease
Fmits and vegetables
Cancer
Fruits, vegetables and whole-grain breads and cereaL~
'-
Fruits and vegetables
~Development of cancer depends on man}' factors. A diet low in total fat may reduce the risk of some cancers: -While many factors affect heart disease, diets low in satumted fat and cholesterol may reduce the risk of this disease.-
"Low-fat diets rich in fiber-containing grain products, fruits, and vegetables 'may reduce the risk of some types of cancer, a disease associated with many factors: "Diets low in salUiJted fat and cholesterol and rich in fruits, vegetables, and giJin products thai contain some types of dietary fiber, particularly soluble fiber, may reduce the risk of heart disease, a disease :tSSOCiated with many factors: "Low-fat diets rich in fruits and vegelables (foods Ihat arc low in fat and may contain dietary fiber, vil::lInin A, or vitamin C) may reduce the risk of some types of amcer, a disease associated with many factors. Broccoli is high in vitamins A and C, and it is a good source of dietary fiber: "
NlffRmDN
c""2\.,
TIle FDA recognizes Ihal there is a link belween some fcxxls or nutrients and certain diseases. II :llIows manufaclUrers and retailers (or their advertiSing agencies) 10 make certain specific claims regarding their prooucts and these dicl-
Nutritionallnj01mation The FDA requires that labels identify specific nutritional infomlation including (I) sen'ing size, (2) lotal number of calories per serving, (3) number of calories from fat per serving, and (4) the percent of daily values for certain nutrientS per
serving. The bllels must also include reference information slLch as the recommended daily values for certain nutrients and the number of Cllories per grdm of fal, prolein and Glfbohydrate. Products with limited label space do not have 10 include Ihe reference information. Figure 3,4 reproduces a sample FDA nulrilional label for the froze n mixed vegetables package iIlustrdted in Figure 3.3,
Sm'lll~ SI/.t': Th: AlA ~ defined 5I3IlWd ~ Il'nlll& iiEI lor :JAlIWinwely Iso roo:l C3It-
pws, making It _ for consumers to rom· pare diffnmt br:IOOs. The SI!1\ing 5I1f5 relied ~ WJJI1IS
p!q)Ie 1CI~1y tal
Nutrition Facts Serving Size 112 cup (114g)
Servings Per Container 4 Amount Per Serving Calories 90
Ptrctnl Dai ly \'a!uc: This !«lion s/l(JI,s how II.- b:d fils into the dally diet. ~~ PfOPIe arc' IlHl'Il»!II D:lul ~ng 100 mudl f:n, $;WJ~ fa. dJoIe.IIeroi alii sodium in thtir daily diet. This l«tioo iden~fies the grams ptr serving ror m. oIlhese nutrients and the percmt 01 the dlily recommended amount 01 that nutrient m. !l'!'1ing provides. The percelltage is basal 00 :I 2OOkaIorie dally diet. For example, a per1M 00 a 'lOO)
Calories from Fat 30 "'- DaIiV V. lue·
Total Fat 3g
5% 0% 0%
Saturated Fat Og Cholesterol Omg Sodium 300mg
13°;'
Total Carbohydratel 3g
4%
Dietary Fiber 3g Sugars 3g
1 2"1.
Protein 3g
00,.
VIIarTi1 A
c.run
4%
..
VIIaTi1C
."
""" 1/ 4%
• Percent Daily Values are tBsed on a 2,000 calorie diet. Your daily values may be higher Of lower depending on your C'llorie needs:
Ga""',
Total Fat Sat Fat Cholesterol
Less than LeM_
...
' .500
' ,000 SSg
"" """ ""
300mg
less than 2,4ODmg """~ Total Carbohydrate 300g Fiber CalorlH per Gram: This is pI:nd 00 all ~ '50 btft ¥) tmIind 0)f1SUtner$ !Iw arbOOydr.ues Calones per gram: :nl pnlItln h:M 4 calories ptr y.un and f:n has Fat 9 Carbohydrate 4 9calories per grnm,
.
flGrRE3,4
J
lIIbellllllstfllUlIg A'l Itn'Uolltlllll!onllaliol/ Reqtliremellts Illustration Source: Food and I)mgAdministration 1993
.
'50
300mg
' ,4OOmg
3750 30g
Protein 4
"'00" ...,
""ri~ from , .., ~. mendalions proIide th:n no IJX)I'f than 3Ol' d ~ peMn) lbily aIoric inuR WI1ll' rrom rat. To help consumers I1l1leI these dietatr guidelines. the number 01 calories PH Sffo'ing From rat is
""""" The Recommended Dail,' Intake or RDI: These values represent the percenuge 01 the dally recommended inuR d ~I vii· amlns ard minerals PH serving, They were !Iekaed rrum the Rocl)mml'lxHl Oietary Al· 1o.<'aI1CeS (RIM), which is discus:se:I be"""', But unlike the RIM. the RDI sets the recommended amoullt 01 each Vitamin and mineral ror a socalled stal...tard adult; It does not :nxlUl1l for sex, age, health or 0Iher aUribmes. The RDt "ias ronnerl)' \mo:lII.n as the u.s. RI1I but "'as changed bec:wse 01 confusioo ..ith the RDA. Daily \'aluts: Thisooilinesthe basics 01 a§Xld diet alii is USI!d ~ 5hc:IIII' hcIII.' the food Iits in10 SI.dIa daUy diet. Soo1e d the ~ in· IJkft ~I'! mmmtll'r'lS for n:vnp\r. 'iI'fIV'OI1f' 00 a ~~ diI.'t ihwld 0lINIIJJe 6) gJaIII$ or k$s d fa _ 00 a 25OO<:11orieptfda). diI.'t slnJld 0lINIIJJe grams or k$s d fat. Other lnUkes arc' minirrv.ms; lor ~ 300 grat1I or _ d catboh)~ IorSOllll'l:lll' 00 • :mx:atorit dailydiet. This 5I'CIioo fI'J1l3ins the _ 00 alilareb alii is inIm:lI'lI as ~ guide ror ~ a:nRmer '4iTIen reading the I'en::ull Daily Value Inform:Won,
*'
53
54
~
CHAPTER 3
Nutrition Labelingfor Restaurant Menus The FDA also setS standards for the nutrition claims that can be made on restaur:mt menus. The language for menus is the same as that for product labels. Restaurateurs, however, are required to supply nutrition information only if they make a claim about a specific dish. For example, if a menu selection is described as ~ Iow fat, ~ the dish must have 3 grams or less of fat per serving and the nUlrition infonnation (nutrient analysis) should be available to anyone who requests it. Restaurateurs and chefs should consult the FDA and the National Restaurant Association for guidance in complying with these labeling regulations.
CONSUMER CONCERNS ABOUT FOOD AND NUTRITION oN-Many food ingredients have been linked to medical conditions. Some of the links are tenuous at best; others may be \vell supponed by research. Nutrition is a SCience, and new information about the relationship of food to health and disease is always changing. Americans have voiced concerns about the possible links of cenain fats and dietaty cholesterol to hean disease; they want to know if sugar intake is related to obesity, diabetes and hean disease. Some people are concerned that peSticide residues in pnxluce may be dangerous and they will seek out restaurants that sen'e organically grown produce. Some people are curious about the alleged medicinal or health benefits of foods. Others have metabolic or digestive conditions that make It dIfficult or even dangerous for them to eat specific ingredients. Because of these concerns, patrons may re
NUTRITION AND THE CHEF
L
The Food Guide Pyramid was designed to guide food consumption for a more healthful life. It presents a plan for a balanced diet. Chefs can use it to plan balanced menus as well. As the Food Guide Pyramid suggests, chefs do not need to use only meat as the center of the plate presentation. It demands that a variety of breads, pasta and grains be induded on the menu along with an interesting selection 9f vegetable dishes. And it caUliol1s aga inst the use of too much fat and sugar. Although nOl every food service operation can (or should) be devoted to "health food ," to the extent appropriate you should offer healthful dining alternatives. Your ability to do so depends, of course, upon your facility. Chefs at hospitals, prisons and schools have much greater control over the foods their guests consume. TIlerefore, they have a far greater opponunity and responsibility to provide selections for a well-balanced diet. Chefs at most restaurants, however, do nO{ have such captive audiences. But that does nO{ mean that you can shirk your responsibilities.
Wf'RfTTON ~
55
~ THE Cusro.ftERS WHO COUNT
[ have spent 19 ye:m of my professional life in the "fine dining" or "goumlet" field. As of the dale of this Illlblication, [ will have completed more than 20 yeatS in transition to 'Wilat [ now call a "Minimax" lifestyle. Minimax is not the opposite of fine "gourmet dining.·' As a culinary philosqJhy it has its place about midway. Millima.x is a constructed word that can be understood internationally. Milti refers to minimum, in this case 10 risks encountered by un.."ise or excessi\'e consumption of food. Ma:c, on the other hand, refers to ma.\imum possible enhancement of f<XXl, using naturnl aromas, cololS and textures rather than the classic I,\estem dependence on salIS, fats and sugars. Your future customers will be involved in a struggle when they read your menu. With their subjecthl! right brains, they will be remembering fOrnIer meals with enormous relish. With their objective left brains, they will apply what they knCWI about fat, calories and sodium. Without some help they I,\ill either be confused, ~lexed, rebellious or guilty. Somehow then, you, who will make up the educated center of the restaurant business of the furure, 1,\;11 have to address the needs of those who want to make changes and still celebrate a night out at a comforting restaurant. My suggestion is that ;'(IU devise recipes that al'Oid fat as a primary souoce of calories for a/
least two appetizers, two entrees and one ''Cigh each dish correctly and hal'C it anal}7.ed by an approved nutrition system. The reason for aCClu'ac~' is that some, if not most, of the "customers who count" do so for l'Cry critical reasons. To give someone an oversized portion of meat I,\ith a great sauce that far exceeds, say, 30% calories from fat is actually highly irresponsible and may even attract possible litigation in the future. When you reduce fat in a classical dish, there will be a reduction in f1al'Or, since ''fat carries flavor. " By drawing attention away from the taste change and enhancing the sense of smell (aroma), sight (color and presentation) and touch (texlUre), you can 3ClUaily impl'Qll! the finished dish. I hal'e found that the fusion idea has helped make this a reality. Fusion is simply merging seasonin~ from one culture with
You assist customers when you: 1. Use proper purchasing and storage techniques in order to preserve nutrients. 2. Offer a variety of foods from each tier of tile Food Guide Pyramid SO that (USlomers have a choice. j. Offer entrees that emphasize plant instead of animal foods. 4. Offer dishes that are considerate of special dietal)' needs such as low fat or low salt. 5. Use cooking procedures that preserve rather than destroy nutrients. li Use cooking procedures that minimize the use of added fat (for example, stocks, sauces and soups can be cooled and the congealed falS removed; foods can be browned in the oven instead of being sauteed in hot fat).
those from another. [n this way it helps to see Northern EUJqlCan specialties that use abundant dairy products as "veJ\'Ct memories," and Nonh African and Asian seasonings as "future bright notes." It is then possible to consider a mooification to, say, sauce hollandaise by 10001!ring the fat and adding a good Asian fish sauce to which shreds of mint and flecks of red pepper are added to spike interest \lith aroma, color and texture. Whate\'Cr you ch~ to do, let me gil'C you this last word of encouragement. Study hard, read the classics and see the future through them. If YOU'I'C C'o'Cr skipped smooth stones on flat water you'll know that the first bounce really matters. If your attitude 10 very rich classics is negatil'e and condemning, then \lnat you try to achiC'ol! \\ill certainly fail to go the distance. Therefore, don't condemn anyone's work. Aim to please tOOay's customer with all the skills that our exciting profession has del'el~ for thousands Ii rears. roo ha\'e my l'ery bEst I,\;shes for a most successful career. Now go skip rour stone. for ~'OUr customers' sakes! GRAltt\l KERR, flU/hor, chef and bosJ of 'THE GWi)I'I"";;; Gou1Mfer" alld GRAilA"" KERR 'S "KrrcHEN," seen 011 PBS· 7V and 7be Disawery Channel
56 ._
CIWl'ER 3
7. Use equipment that minimizes the use of added fat (for example, nonstick pans).
8. Train the wait staff 10 respond properly 10 nutritional questions diners mar have about menu items. 9. Use ingredient alternatives or substitutes where appropriate. If a dish does not lend itself to ingredient alternatives or substitutes, consider crealing a new dish that replaces less nutritious traditional foods or preparations with more nutritious ones. For eX:lOlple, instead of serving a sauce made with buttcr, flour and cream, you G In reduce an appropriately seasoned wine, stock or juice and then thicken it with fml! or vegetable purees or corn-
starch.
FIGUR£3.5
TbeSymboifor
a HeaftbjulllecljJe
All of the recipes in this book were anal}'zed using highly respecred nUlritional analysis software. Information used for the analysis came from the USDA nutrient database, private companies and independent studies. The nutrient information provided here is only lIS a reference. There is a 20% margin of error, due primarily to choices for specific ingredients and variations in the size of fruits and vegetables. Preparation techniques an9 serving sizes may also significantly alter the values of many nutrients. When a recipe offers a choice of ingredients, the first- mentioned ingredient was the one used in the calculations. Ingredients listed as "to taste" (TI) and "as needed" were omitted from the analysis. In addition, olive oil and 3% whole milk were used throughout for "vegetable oil- and ~milk : respectively. When given a choice of serving size or weight, the first mentioned was used. Throughout this book are recipes marked with the pyramid symbol illustrated in Figure 3.5. This symbol identifies dishes that are particularly low in calories, fat, saturated fat or sodium; if appropriate, they may also be a good source of Vitamins, protein, filJt:r ur l~Iciuill . 111Cse dishes are not necessarily dietetic, however. Rather, Ihey should be consumed as pan of a well-balanced diet.
filmCLUSION .n-, A basic understanding and appreciation of nutrition are important for both the consumer and those who prepare the f<XXls consumed. What you serve is imponant . Carbohydrates, proteins, fats, water, vitamins and minerals, in varying amountS, are all necessary for good health. The Food Guide Pyramid can guide seledions to create and maintain a healthful diet. How foods are prepared is also important. Remember that some cooking and StOrage techniques preserve nutrients; others do not. In addition, by substituting or modifying ingredients and preparation methods, many dishes can be made more nutritious.
, QUESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION .n-, 1. Identify the six categories of nutrients, and list [WO sources for each. 2. What are the differences between sarurated fats and unsaturated fats? Identify two sources for each. 3. USt four things you can do to reduce the loss of minerals and vitamins when storing or preparing foods.
Nf.!l'Rfl70N
4. Describe the Food Guide Pyramid. Explain how a chef can use it to plan well-balanced meals and how a consumer can use it to establish a healthful diet. What other diet planning tools can be used along with the pyramid? 5. Create two menus for a Thanksgiving dinner, both nUlritionally balanced, but one high in calories, fat and so on, and one including the traditional foods but reduced in fat, calories, cholesterol and sodium.
C"'\!t.
57
HAPTER
4 Be/PES
=== ~ ===
After studying this chapter, you will be able to: <"'0..
~ ~
<"'0..
appreciate the different rypes and styles of menus understand the purpose of standardized recipes conven recipe yield amounts appreciate the need for cost
controls in any food service operation
oday's professional chef 11/usl master more tban the basics of bechamel, butchering and bread bakil1g. YOll mllst be equally skilled in the business of food seroices. 7bis means kflOU}illg what products cost and bow to cOlltrol and mai1lla;'1 food costs. II also means understanding how accurate meaSllreme11fS, />011;011 control
and proper food handling directly affect the food selvice operation's boltom line. This chapter introduces you 10 various types and styles of melll/S.
It then eJ.plail1s a stal1dardized recipe format alld presents information on measuremellfs allci techniques for changing or converting recipe yields. fl then describes methods fo r determining uilit and recipe costs and concludes with a discussion of methods for comro/ling food costs.
THE MENU .n-,
Entree-tbe main dish of OIl Ameriam meal,
usuaUy meat, poultry, fISh or sbe{lfisb aa:vmpanied by (I /iege/able all(/ $I(lrcb; in Franct, II is tbe first roUrsiJ, serrltd before the fob and 111M/
courses.
Whether it lists Afghan dishes, hamburgers, juSt dessertS or classic cuisine, and whether the prices range from inexpensive 10 exorbitant, the menu is the soul of every food service operation. Its purp::>SeS are to identify for the consumer the foods and beverages the operation offers, 10 create consumer enthusiasm and to increase sales. When combined with good food and good service, a good menu helps ensure success. Most menus offer consumers sufficient selections to build an entire meal. A typical North American meal consists of three courses. TIle first course may be a hot or cold appetizer, soup or salad. ·111C second course is the entree or main dish, usually meat, poultry, fish or shellfish accompanied by a vegetable and starch . The third course is dessert, either a sweet preparation or fmit and cheese. For a more formal melli, there may be a progreSSion of first courses, including a hot or cold appetizer and soup, as well as a fish course served before the main dish (which, in this case, would nOl be fish). For a meal served in the European tradition, the salad would be presented as a palate cleanser after the main dish and before the dessert.
TYPes ofMenus Menus are classified according to the regularity with which the foods are offered: 1. Static menu-All patrons are offered the same foods every day. Once a Sialic menu is developed and established, it rarely changes. Static menus are typically found in fast-food operations, ethnic restaurants, steakhouses and the like. Static menus can also be used in institutional settings. For example, a static menu at an elementary school could offer students, along with a vegetable and dessert, the same luncheon choices every school day: a cheeseburger, fish sticks, chicken tacos, pizza wedges or a 5.1ndwich. 2. Cycle menu-A cycle menu is developed for a set period; at the end of that period it repeats itself (that is, on a seven-day cycle, the same menu is used every Monday). Some cycle menus are written on a seasonal basis,
MENUS AND RECIPES r"2\.
with a new menu for each season to take advantage of product ava ilability. Cycle menus are used commonly in schools, hospitals and Q(her institutions. Although cycle menus may be repetitious, the repetition.is not necessarily noticeable to d iners because of the length of the cycles. j. Market menu-A market menu is based upon product availability during a specific period; it is written to use foods when they are in peak season or readily available. Market menus are bemming increasingly popular with chefs (and consumers) since they cha!\enge the chefs ingcnuiry in using fresh, seasonal products. Market menus are shalt-lived, however, because of limited product availability and perishability. In fact, they often change daily. 4. Hybrid menu-A hybrid menu combines a static menu with a cycle menu or a market menu of specials.
Food service operations may have separate menus for breakfast, lunch or dinner. If all three meals are available all day and are listed on the same menu , the menu is often called a California menu; California menus are typically found in 24-hour restaurants. Depending on the food service operation's objeai\'cs, separate specialty menus for drinks, hors d'oeuvres, desseltS, brunch or afternoon tea, for example, are used. Regardless of whether the menu is statiC, cycle, market or hybrid, it can offer consumers the opponu nity to purchase their selections a la calte, semi a ]a cane, table d'hbte or some combination of the three.
A fa
carte~Evcry food and bevcrage item is priced and ordered separJtcly. 2. Semi a la carte-With this popular menu style, some food items (palticulady appetizers and desseltS) are priced and ordered separately, while the entree is accompanied by and priced to include other items, such as a salad, starch or vegetable. j.. Table d'hBte or prix ftxe-lnis menu offers a completc meal at a set price. (The term fable d'bOfe is French for ~ host's table" and is derived from the innkeeper's practice of seating all guests at a large communal table and serving them all the same meal.) A table d'h6te meal can range from very elegant to a diner's blue-plate special.
I.
Many menus combine a 1:1 calte, semi a la cane and table d'h6te choices. For example, appetizers, salads and dessens may be available a la calte; entrees may be offered semi a la calte (served with a salad, starch and vegetable), while the daily special is a complete (table d'hbte or prix fixe) meal.
Menu l£lnguage The menu is the principal way in which the food selVice operation, including the chef, communicates with the consumer. A well-designed menu often rethe input of deSign, marketing, an and other consultants as well as the chef and management. TIle type of folds, cover, altwork, layout, typefaces, colors and paper are all important considerations. But the mOst imponam consideration is the language. The menu should list the foods offered. It may include descriptions such as the preparation method, essential ingredients and service method as well as the quality, cut and quantity of product. For example, the menu can list -Porterhouse Steak" or ~Mesquite Grilled 16-0z. Angus Beef PonerhOllse Steak."
nects
61
62
~
ClW'TER 4
Troth ill Adverlisillg Federal as well as some stale and local laws require that certain menu Ian· guage be accurate. Areas of particular concern include stalemems about quantily, quality, grade and freshness. Accurate references to an item's source are also important. If brand names are used, those brands mUSt be served. If the restaurant claims to be serving MFresh Dover Sale," il must be JUSt that, nOi frozen sole from New England. (On the other hand, like French or Russian dressing, "English mint sauce is a generic name for a style of food , so using that geographical adjective is appropriate even if the mint sauce is made in Ari· zona.) A reference to "am own fresh"baked ~ desserts means that the restaurant regularly bakes the desserts on premises, serves them soon after baking and does not substitute commercially prepared or frozen goods.
Nuin'tionot Statements As discussed in Chapter 3, Nutrition, the FDA carefully regulates the language used on packaged food labels. In 1997, the FDA extended its nutrition labeling regulations to restaurant me nus. These regu[mions are intended 10 prevent restaurants from making misleading health or nutrition claims. For example. terms such as "Light," ~ H ealth y~ or "Heart Healthy" must be accurate and documented. The standards for calculating and presenting that information are far less stringent than the regul:ltions for pack.ged foods, however. Restaurants may support their claims with data from any "reasonable" source, and may present that infomlation in any fomlat, including verbally. Nutritional data is not required for menu items that do not carry a nutritional content or health claim.
S7JJNDARDIZED R ECIPES Recl pc-a set of u:riflell illslrllcoolIsfr;r prrxillc-
ing a SfJt!djic food or bet1!rage; also III/()UIII (IS (I formula. Standardized rccl pc-a rt.'dpti prodllcillg (J
Imoum qllality alld qlltllliity offood for (I $edfic
operation.
t.·Ienu writing and recipe development are mutually dependent activities. Once the menu is created, standardized recipes should be prepared for each item. A standardized recipe is one that will produce a known quality and quantity of food for a specific operation. It specifies (I) the type and amount of each ingredient, (2) the preparation and cooking procedures, and 0) the yield and portion size. Standardized reCipes are nOt found in books or provided by manufaclllrers j they are recipes cuslOmized to yom operalion--cooking lime, temperature and utensils should be based on the equipment actually available. Yield should be adjusted to an amount appropriate for yom operation. A recipe must be tested repeatedly and adjusted 10 fit your facility and your needs before it can be considered standardized. Standardized recipes are a tool for the chef and management The written forms assist with training cooks, educating service stafT and controlling financial mailers. They also help ensure that the customer will receive a consistent quality and quantity of produCt. Accurate recipe costing and menu pricing depends on having and using standardized recipes. Although formats diffe r, a Standardized recipe form such as that reproduced in Figure 4. 1 \villusually include: • Name of product • Yield • Portion size • Presentation and garnish
tlfENUSAND REC/PEf
STANDAflD RECIPE CARD FOR m:M:
DA,TE IIE"'S~D
OUANIITY PllDDUCED
IIECIPf. ALE NO. IIESu.UIIA,m
"""~~
NO.OF POI!nCNS PRCIOUCED
,
"" I""'" "'"
~ FlGtu4.1
• • • •
"'"
"'"
,
Standardized Rec;pe Form
Ingredient quality and quantiry Prepar.ltion procedures Cooking time and temperature Holding procedures
The form may also include information on costing and a phOtograph of the ~nished dish. Each form should be complete, consistent and simple to read and follow. TIle forms should be stored in a readily accessible place. Index cards, notebook binders or a computerized database may be used, depending on the size and complexity of the operation.
MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSlONS Measurement Formats Accurate measurements arc among the most important aspectS of food production. Ingredients and portions must be measured correclly to ensure consistent product quality. [n other words, the chef must be able to prepare a recipe the same way each time, and portion sizes must be the s:tme from one order to the next.
C"\!t.
63
64 '""'-
CHAFfER 4
TABLE 4. 1
.-.
In a kitchen, measurements may be made in three ways: weight, volume
CoMMON ABBRl'VL\TIONS teaspoon tablespoon
cup pim
qU:ln g~m
milliliter liter ounce flu id ounce pound
kilogrn m
= = = = = = = = = = = =
"po Th;p.
c. pI. ql.
g Illl h
oz. fl. oz. lb. kg
and count. Weight refers
lO
the mass or heaviness of a substance. 1\ is expressed in
terms such as grams, ounces, pounds and Ions. \'('eight may be used to measure liquid or dry ingredients (for eXlITnple, 2 pounds of eggs for a bread recipe) and portions (for example, 4 ounces of sliced turkey for a sandwich). Since weight is generall}' the most accurate fonn of measurement, ponion scales or balance scales are commonly used in kitchens. Volume refers 10 the space occupied by a substance. This is malhemalicallr e.xpressed as height x width x lenglb. It is expressed in terms such as cups, quans, gallons, teaspoons, fluid ounces, bushels and liters. Volume is moo commonly used to measure liquids. It may also be used for dry ingredienlS when the amount is too small to be weighed accurately (for example, 1/4 leaspoon of salt). Although measuring by volume is somewhat less accurate than measuring by weighl, volume measurements are generally quicker to do. Frequently, mislakes are made in food preparation by chefs who assume wfongly that weight and volumc are equal. Do nOt be fooled! One cup does not always equal 8 ounces. Although it is tme Ihat one standard cup comains 8 flUid ounces, it is nOI Ime that the contents of that standard cup will weigh 8 ounces. For example, the wcight of I cup of diced apples will vary depending on lhe size of Ihe apple pieces. Errors are commonly made in Ihe bakeshop by cooks who assume that 8 ounces of flour is the same as one cup of flour. In faa, one cup of flour weighs only about 4- 112 ounces. It is not unusual to see IxNh weight and \'olume measurements used in a single recipe. When a recipe ingredient is expressed in weight, weigh il. When it is expressed as a volume, measure it. like most mles, however, this one has exceptions. The weight and volume of water, bUller, eggs and milk are, in each case, the same. For these ingredients you may use whichever measuremem is most convenient. Count refers to the number of individual items. Count is used in reCipes (for example, 4 eggs) and in panion control (for example, 2 fish fillets or I ear of corn). Count is also commonly used in purchasing to indicate the size of the individual items. For example, a "96 count" case of lemons means that a 40pound case contains 96 individual lemons; a ~ 11 5 count" case means thai the same 40-pound case contains 115 individual lemons. So, each lemon in the 96count case is larger than those in the 11 5-collnt case. Shrimp is another item commonly sold by count. One pound of shrimp may contain from eight 10 several hundred shrimp, depending on the size of the individual pieces. When placing an order, the chef must specify the desired count. For example, when ordering one pound of 21-25-count shrimp, the chef expects 10 recei\'e nOt fewer than 21 nor more than 25 pieces.
Measurement Systems The measurement fomlats of weight, volume and count are used in both the U.S. and metric measurement syslCms. Both of these systems are used in modern food service operations, so you should be able (a prepare recipes wrillen in either one. The U.S. system, with which you are prob.1bly familiar, is actually (he more difficult system to understand. II uses pounds for weight and cups for volume. The metric system is the most commonly used system in the world. Developed in France during the late 18lh century, it was intended to fill the need for a mathematically rational and unifonn system of measurement. The metric system is a decimal system in which the gram, liter and meier are the basic units of weight, volume and length , respectively. Larger or smaller units of weighl, volume and length are formed by adding a prefix 10 the words gram,
MENUS AND RECIPES r"'\!t.
====== ~
======
FANNIE MI1RRJ1T FAJI...'FA
(185 7-1915) F:mnie Farmer is more than the name on acookbook. She was an early, \;gorous and influential p~t of scientific cooking, nutrition and academic training for culinary professionals. AI. the age of 30, Fanner enrolled in tOe Boston Cooking &hool. The school's curriculum \\'as not designed to graduate chefs, but rather to produce cooking teacheTS. After gmduating from the two)W course, Farmer stayed on, first as assistant principal and then :l\ principal. During her years there (aOO, indeed. for the re<.t of her career) she was obse5sed lIith accurate measurements. She ~-aged a campaign to eliminate measurements SIdl as a "v.ine glass"' of liquid, a "handful" ri flour, a chunk of butter the "size of an egg" or 3 "heaping spoonful" of sal!. For, as she ooce ""TOte, "correct measurements are abdutely t1t.'03Sat)' to insure the best remits." f:llTl1er also sought to replace the European Sjmnl of measuring ingredients by Il."eigllt Vtith., for ~ 3 more scientific measurement S}~ based on volume and le...el measure; (e.g., a level tablespoon). To a great degree, '" sooxoJed. Her II-TiUngs reflect her concern for accurate measurements. Her first book, tbe Boston Coo~ing School OxAtbook (1896), includes
clearly written recipes . . .;Ih precise measurements. Later editions add recipe yields, oven temperatures and baking times. After leaving the Boston Cooking School, she opened "Miss Fanner's School of Cookery."' The curriculum listed 60 lessons divided inlo six courses. The first course COYered the basics: la)'ing a fire and using a gas store; making breads, egg;, soups, potatoes and coffee. The serond and third courses emphasi7.ed more advanced cooking. Pasl!)', desserts and salads were taught during the fourth course; presentation and service were laught during the fifth course. Quite progressil'Cl)' for the lime, her sixth course taught cooking for nurses and emphasized nutrition and the dietary needs of the sick: and elderly. (This may hal"C reflected Fanner's personal interests, for she was partiall)' disabled and in poor health from time to lime.)
Fanner wrote other cookbooks, including F(xxl allti Cookery jar fbe Sick ami Corwa1=1 09(4) ,00 A Nw &ok of """"'.
(first published in 1912 and republished in SC\"Cral revised versions). Her wrilin~ never address the iO}"S of cooking and eating; ralhe~ they reflect a scientific approach 10 cooking and reI), on clearly written, accurately measured recipes for goOO, solid foOO.
lifer or meIer. Some of (he more commonly used prefixes in food service operations are deca- (10), kilo- (1000), dcci- (1/ 10) and miJli- (1/ 1000). Thus, a kilogram is 1000 grams; a decameter is 10 meters; a milliliter is 111000 of a liter. Because the melric system is based on multiples of 10, it is extremely easy to increase or decrease amounts. TIle most important thing for a chef to know about the metric system is that )"0/1 do 1101 need to convert betwetm the metn"c system alld the U.s. system ill recipe preparation If a recipe is written in metric units, use metric measuring equipment; if it is written in U.S. units, use U.S. measuring equipment. LuckiI)" most modern measuring equipment is calibrated in both U.S. and metric increments. The need 10 convert amounts will arise only if the proper equipment is unal'ail3ble.
65
66
C/1Am'R 4
,~
TABLE
4.2
J'r> CoMMON CoNVERSIONS
Dash 3 teaspoons 2 tablespoons 4 tablespoons H /3 tablespoons 16 tablespoons 2 cups 2 pints 4 quarts 2 gallon.'l 4 pecks I gr.lm 1 ounce
454 grams 2,2 pounds 1 teaspoon
1 tablespoon I cup 1 gallon
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ,
As you can see from Table 4.2, 1 ounce equals 28.35 grams. So, /0 COllLeTt ounces to gmms, mulliply tbe 1/umber of ounces by 28
1/8 tC3spoon I tablespoon I fl.
(rounded for convenience).
oz.
1/4 cup (2 fl. oz.) 1/3 cup (2·213 fl. oz.) I cup (8 fL oz.) I pim 06 fl. oz.) 1 quan (32 fL oz.) I gallon (128 fl. oz.)
I peck I bushel
0.035
ounce
Converting Grams and Ounces
8 ounces x 28 = 224 grams And to couvert grams to ounces. divide tbe /lumber of grams by 28. 224
+
28 = 8 ounces
To help you develop a framework for judging conversations, remember that:
(1/30 o z.) + A kilogram is about 2.2 pounds + A gram is about 1/30 ounce
28.35 grams I pound I kil ogram (1000 gr:mlS)
5 milliliters 15 milliliters .24 liters 3.80 liters
+ A pound is about 450 grams + A liter is slightly more than a quan + A centimeter is slightly less than 1/ 2 inch
+ O~ Celsius is the freezing point of water (32°F) + 100° Celsius is the boiling point of water (212°F)
These approxin:ations are nOl a subslintle for accurate com'ersions. however. Append!.. . II comains additional infonnation on equivalents and metric conversions. There is no substitute for knowing this information. In fact, it should become second nature to you.
RECIPE CONVERSIONS .n-, Yield- the 1001111111011111 of {/ producllI/aQe
from {/ specific recipe; also, the 111110 11111 if 1/ 10M l1em re/llflillillg Iif/er c/f(lI/fIl8 or processil/g.
Conversion factor (C.F.)-Ibe 1II1111ber IISed /Q i,/Cffl~ or llecrt'tlSe illgredielll
rtdpe J'itIds.
f/lI(l1Ili1ies (lnd
Whether 6 servings or 60, every recipe is designed to produce or yield a specific amount of product. A recipe's yield may be expressed in volume, weight or seroillgs (for example, I quan of sauce; 8 pounds of bread dough; 8 halfcup servings). If the expected yield does not meet your needs, you mLlst conyen (that is, increase or decrease) the ingredient amounts. Recipe conversion is sometimes complicated by PO/1ioll size COl/versiOIl. For example, it may be necessary to conven a recipe that initially produces 24 8-ounce servings of soup into a reCipe that produces 62 6-ounce servings. It is just as easy to change yields by uneven amounlS as it is to double or halve recipes. The mathematical principle is the same: Each illgrediel7f is multiplied by a conversion factor. Do not take shonculS by estimating recipe amounts or conversion factors. Inaccurate conversions lead to inedible foods, embarrassing shonages or wasteful excesses. Take the time to learn and apply proper conversion techniques.
Converting Total Yield \Vhen panion 5ize is unimpanam or remains the same, reCipe yield is convened by a simple two-step process: STEP 1: Divide the desired (new) yield by the recipe (old) yield to obtain the conversion :actor (C.F.). new yield
-7
old yield = convers ion factor
MENUS AND RECIPES ~
STEP 2: Multiply each ingredient quantity b}' the conversion factor to obtain the new quantity. old quantity x conversion factor
= new quantity
[1JIIllple 4. 1 You need to convert a recipe for cauliflower soup. The present recipe yields
I 12 gallons. You only need to make 3/4 gallon. STEP 1: Determine the conversion factor: .75 gallon
+ ]j
gallons = 50
The same com'ersion factor can be obtained ltfter first converting the recipe amounts to fluid ounces:
96 fluid ounces
+
192 fluid ounces = 50
•
STEP 2: Apply the conversion factor to each ingredient in the soup recipe:
CAUUFLOWER SOUP C1uliflower, chopped Celery stalks Onion Chicken stock Heavy cream
old quantity
x
c.F.
; lb. 4 2 qt.
x x x x
1 pI.
X
.; .; .; .; .;
= = = = = =
new quantity 2 1/2 lb . 2 1/2 I qt. 1 1/2 pc
Converting Portion Size few additional steps are necessary to conven reCipes when ponion sizes must also be changed.
.0\
STEP 1: Determine the total yield of the existing reCipe by multiplying the number of ponions by the ponion size. original portions x original portion size
= total (old) yield
STEP 2: Determine the lotal yield desired by multiplying the new number of ponions by tbe new portion size. desired portions x desired portion size
= total (new) yield
STEP 3: Obtain the conversion factor as described earlier. total (new) yield) -:- total (old) yield = conversion faclor
STEP 4: Multiply each ingredient quantity by the conversion factor. old quantity x conversion factor
= new quantity
Example 4.2 Returning (0 the cauliflower soup: The original recipe produced 1 1/2 gallons or 48 4-ounce .servings. Now you need 72 6-ounce sen'ings. STEP 1: Total original }'ield is 48 x 4 = 192 ounces. STEP 2: Total desired yield is 72 x 6 =432 ounces. STEP 3: The conversion factor is calculated by dividing IOt31 new yield by tOlal old yield: 432 + 192 = 2.25
67
68
~.
CIIAPI'ER 4 STEP 4: Old ingredient quantities are multiplied by the conversion factor to determine the new quantities:
CAUlJFLOWER SOUP old quantity Cauliflower, chopped Celery stalks Onion Chicken stock Heavy cream
Sib. 4 2 qt.
3 pI.
x x x x x x
c.F.
=
new quantity
2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25
= = = = =
11.25 lb. 9 2.25 4.5 qt. 6.75 pt.
Additional Conversion Problems When making large recipe changes-for example, from 5 to 25 ponions or 600 to 300 ponions-you may encounter addit ional problems. The mathematical
conversions described here do nOt take into account changes in equipment, evaporation rates, unforeseen recipe errors or cooking times. Chefs learn to use their judgment, knowledge of cooking principles and skills to compensate for these factors.
Equipment When you change the size of a recipe, you must often change the equip-ment used as well. Problems arise, however, when the production techniques previously used no longer work with the new quantity of ingredients. For example, if you nonnall}' make a muffin recipe in small quantities by hand and you increase the recipe size, it may be necessary to prepare the baiter in a mi.xer. But if mixing time remains the same, the batter may become ovenni.xed, resulting in poor-quality muffins. Trying to prepare a small amount of product in equipment that is too large for the task can also affect its quality.
Evaporation Equipment changes can also affect product quality because of changes in evaporation rates. IncreaSing a soup reCipe may require substituting a tilt skillet for a saucepan. But because a tilt skillet provides more surface area for evaporation than does a saucepan, reduction time must be decreased to prevent ovenhickening the soup. The increased evaporation caused by an increased surface area may also alter the strength of the seasonings.
Recipe Errors A reCipe may contain errors in ingredients or techniques that are not obvious when it is prepared in small quantities. When increased, however, small mistakes often become big (and obvious) ones, and the final product suffers. The only solution is to lest recipes carefully and rely on your knowledge of cooking principles to compensate for unexpeaed problems.
Time Do not multiply time speCifications given in a recipe b}' the conversion factor used with the reCipe'S ingredients. All things being equal, cooking lime will not change when recipe size changes. For example, a muffin requires the same amount of baking time whether you prepare 1 dozen or 14 dozen. Cooking time will be affected, however, by changes in evaporation rate or heat conduction caused by equipment changes. lHixillg tillle may change when recipe size is changed. Different equipment may perform mixing tasks more or less efficiently than previously used equipment. Again, rely on experience and good judgment.
MENUS AND RECfPFS ,~
69
CALCUlATING UNIT COSTS AND RECIPE COST'S n-, IJnit Costs Food senrice operations purchase most foods from suppliers in bulk or wholesale packages. For example, canned goods are purchased by the case; produce ~,the nal, case or lug; and flour and Sligar by 25- or 50-pound bags. Even fish and me-drs are often purchased in large cuts, not individual selVing-sized porlions. The purchased amount is rarely used for a single recipe, however. It must be broken down into smaller unilS such as pounds, cups, quarts or ounces. In order to allocate the proper ingredient costs to the recipe being prepared, it is necessary \0 convert as-purchased costs or prices 10 unit costs
or prices. To find the unit COSI (that is, the cost of a particular unit, say, a single egg) in a package containing multiple units (for example, a 30-dozen case), divide the as-purchased cost (A,P, cost) of the package by the number of units in the package. A.P. cost -:- number of units
As.purchased (A.P. }-Ibe cvllditiml or cost of till item (IS if is purclJastd or rn:eiued from tbe SIIpplier,
Unit cost-l!Je pria paid 10 acquire one of the specified u/lils.
= cost per unit
[,ample 4.3 Acase of =10 cans coma ins six individual cans. If a case of tomato paste costs 523.50, then each can costs 53.92,
523';0 + 6 = 53.92 If your recipe uses less than the tOlal CAn, you must continue dividing the of the can until you arrive at the appropriate unit amount. Continuing with the tomato paste example, if you need only 1 cup of tomato paste, divide the can price ($3,92) by the total number of cups contained in the can to arrive at the cost per Cup (unit). The list of CAnned good sizes in Appendix [I shows that a"'l0 can contains approximately 13 cups. Using the formula , each cup costs SO.3O.
cost
53.92
+
13 =30
TIle cost of one cup can be reduced even funher if necessary. If the recipe uses only 2 tablespoons of tomato paste, divide the cost per cup by the num-
ber of tablespoons in a cup. As you can see, the final cost for 2 tablespoons of this tomato paste is SO.037 . .30 + 16 = .018 x 2 = SO.037
Recipe Costs With a typical recipe, you calculate the total recipe cost with the following
two-step procedure: STEP 1: Determine the cost for the given quantity of each recipe ingredient with the unit costing procedures described earlier, STEP 2: Add all the ingredient costs together to obtain the total recipe cost. The total reCipe cost can then be broken down imo the cost per portion, which is the most useful figure for food cost controls. To arrive at cost per portion, divide the total recipe cost by the total number of seIVings or portions produced by that recipe. total recipe cost -:- number of portions
= cost per portion
Total recipe cost--lbe IoIal emf ofingm/ielils
for a pamcular recipe; iI does 1101 rtf1tct QU'r" bead, labor, fi:«d expensts or profit
Cost per portion--lbe amoullt of the IoIaI recipe cosI didded by tbe number ofportionr prtr (/uced from tbat recipe; tbe cost of one serr'ing.
70
,
Cflffn-:R 4
RECIPE COSTING FORM Menu I(cm
Date COST
Ingredient
TOTAL COST OF RECIPE Total Yield
Size of Portion Cost per Portion
Food Cost Percentage
Selling Price
FIGtJRE 4.2
TOTAL
Quantity As Purchased Yield % Edible Portion COST
$-
Recipe Costing r'Orm
The Recipe Costing Form shown in Figure 4.2 is useful for organizing recipe costing information. It provides space for lisling each ingredient, the quanti[)'
of each ingredient needed, the
COSt
of each unit and the total cost for the in-
gredient. Tatal yield, portion size and COSt per portion are listed al the bottom of the form . Note that there is no space for recipe procedures, since these are irrelevant in recipe costing.
CONTROLLING FOOD COSTS
.N-,
food COStS in any given operation; most can be controlled by the chef or manager. These controls do nm require mathematical calculations or fomlUlas, just basic management sk ills and a good dose of common sense. The following factors all have an impact on the operation's bonom line: Many things affeCl
• Menu Purcn.1sing!ordering + Receiving + Storing + Issuing Kitchen procedures Establishing standard portions Waste
• •
• Sales and service
l
MENUS AND REQPE5
-..
71
Chefs tend to focus their control effons in the area of kitchen preparatio n. ..lJthough this may seem logical, it is not adequate. A good chef will be inI'OI\'ed in all aspects of the operation to help prevem problems from arising or (0 correct those that may occur.
Mel/u A profitable menu is based upon many variables, including customer desires, physical sp.1ce and equipment, ingrediem availability, cost of goods sold,
employee skills and competition. All managemem personnel, including the chef, should be consulted when planning the menu. Menu cha nges, though possibl)' desirable, must be executed with as much care as the original design .
Purchasing/Ordering Purchasing techniques have a direct impaCt on COSt controls. On the o ne hand, parstock must be adequate fo r efficiem operations; on the other hand, too much inventory wastes space and resources and may spoil. Before any items are ordered, purcbasing specificatio ns should be established and communicated to potential purveyors. Specificalions sho uld precisely describe the item. including gmde, quality, packaging and unit size. Each operation should design its own form to best meet its specific needs. A sample speCificatio n fonn is shown in Figure 4.3. This information can be used to obtain price qUOIes from several purveyors. Update these quOtes periodically to ensure that rou are getting the best value for )'our money.
Receiving \I:'hether goods are received by a full-time clerk, as they are in a large hotel,
or by the chef or kitchen manager, cenain standards should be observed. The person signing for merchandise should first confirm thai the ite ms were actually ordered. Second, determine whether the items listed on the invoice are the o nes being delivered and that the price and quantity listed are accurate. Third, the ilems, especially mealS and produce, should be checked fo r quality, freshn ess and weigh!. Established purchase speCificati ons should be readily available. ." 1.n PU1lCtlASl~G
SP£ClnCAno~s
,",,,,,,
-, .lImu Item:
NA.\IPII.\II'Si:
Paclaging:
...,
McqUnit
Coodi~oos:
Storing Proper storage of foodstuffs is crucia l in order to prevent spoilage, pilferage and waste. Stock mUSt be r0tated so that the older items are used first. Such a system for rotating stock is refe rred to as F[FO: Firsl In, First Out. Storage areas should be well ventilated and lit to prevent infestatio n and mold .
Issuillg It may be necessary, par-
CommtnIS:
fkl1E43 Specijimt/ofl Form
ticularly in larger operations, to limit storeroom access to specific personnel. Maintaining ongOing inventory records o r parstock sheets helps the ordering process. Controlling issuances elimi-
Parstock (Par)-Ibe amOllnt of slod neces· sary 10 C()IY!r operating "eeds bel/lml deliveries.
72
.....
CJW'l'F.R 4
nates waste caused by multiple opened containers and ensures proper stock rotation.
Kitchen Procedures: Eslablis/)hlg Siandam Portions Standardizing portions is essential to controlling food costs. Unless ponion quantity is uniform, it will be impossible to compute portion costs accurately. Portion discrepancies can also confuse or mislead customers. Actual portion sizes depend on the food seJVice operation itself, the menu, the prices and the customers' desires. Some items are generally purchased preportioned for convenience (for example, steaks are sold in uniform cuts, baking potatoes are available in uniform sizes, butter comes in preportioned paIS and bread comes sliced for scJVice). Other items must be ponioned by the establishment prior to scJVice. Special equipment makes consistent portioning easy. There are machines to slice meats, cutting guides for cakes and pies and ponion scales for weighing quantities. Standardized portion scoops and ladles are indispensable for seJVing vegetables, soups, stews, salads and similar foods. Many of these items are discussed and illustrated in Chapter S, Tools and Equipment. Once acceptable portion sizes are established, employees must be properly trained to present them. If each employee of a sandwich shop prepared sandwiches the way he or she would like to eat them, customers would probably never receive the same sandwich twice. Customers may become confused and decide not to risk a repeat visit. Obviously, carelessness in portioning can also drastically affect food cost.
Kitchen Procedures: Wasle The chef must also control waste from overproduction or fail ure to usc leftovers. With an adequate sales history, the chef can accurately estimate the quantiry of food to prepare for each week, day or meal. If the menu is deSigned properly, the chef can also use leftovers and trim from product fabrication. The less waste generated in food preparation, the lower the overall food cost will be.
Safes and Semice An improperly trained sales staff can undo even the mOSt rigorous of food cost controls. Front-of-the-house personnel are, after all, ultimately responsible for the sales portion of the food cost equation. Proper training is once again critical. Prices charged must be accurate and complete. Poor scJVice can lead to the need 10 serve for free ecomp") an excessive amount of food. Dropped or spilled foods do not generate revenues.
fifONCLUSJON oN-> No food scJVice operation becomes a success on the chers cooking ability alone. A well-designed, enticing and accurately priced menu is also necessary. By following a standardized recipe, you should be able to repeatedly produce a known quality and quantity of food for your specific food seJVice operation. Based upon the regularity with wbicb you offer these foods, your menu can be classified as static, cycle, market or hybrid. You can offer your menu items either a la cane. semi a !a cane or table d'h&e. You must be able to understand and apply proper techniques for converting recipes, food costing and loss control. Although computers are useful and
MENUS AND RECIPES
are becoming more common in kitchens, no machine can substitute for a chefs watchful eye and hands-on comrols.
l. Describe the four types of menus. Can each type of menu offe r foods :1 la
cane, semi a la cane and/or table d·h6te? Explain your answer. 2. Discuss three factors in food preparation that affect successfLl reCipe size changes. 3. Why is it imponant to calculate the ponion COSI of a recipe in professional food service operations? Why is the fu n recipe COSt inadequate? 4. List several factors, Q{her than kitchen procedures, that a chef should examine when looking for ways to contra! food costs.
"Yo.
73
,
Two REPARATION PART
.
Mise
en place is the essence of preparation. Although it
means ';evelything in its place," the term connotes more
[han merely having all ingredients and tools on hand and being ready to begin preparing a disli. Rather, i[ suggests [hat the chef can identify, appreciate and unde rst~tnd how [he necessary rools and equipment work , how the foods are cut and what the basic flavoring ingredients and , staples are.
To assist you in preparing to cook, Palt II presents information about the tools and equipment routinely found in profeSSional kitchens, then discusses how a professional kitchen is organized. There is a chapter on knife skills as well as chapters on kitchen staples (herbs and spices, condimems, oils, vinegars, nuts, coffee and tea) and dailY
products (including milk, cream, cultured milk products and cheese). Understanding this informarion is critical before successful
cooking ca n begin.
HAPTER
5 ----
== ~ ===
After srudying this chapter, you will
be able to: t"'0...
recognize a variety of professional kitchen l001s and equipmen!
~ ~
select and care for knives understand how a professional kitchen is o rganized
aving the proper lools and equipment for a pm1iwlar task may mean the difference between a job well done and one done carelessly, incorrectly or even dangeroLisly. This chapter introduces mOSl of the tools and equipment typically used in a professional
kitchen. items are divided illfo categories according to their jUl/cliol/: band tools, knives, measur;/lg (mt/ polt/oning devices, cookware, strainers and sieves, processing equ ipmelll, storage colltail1ers, heav), equipment, buffet eqUIpment and safety eqllipment. A wide variety oj specialized tools and eqillpment is available to today's chef Breading macbines, croissa/U shapers and doughnut glazers are designed to speed production by reducing handwork. Other devices-for instance, a duck press or a couScolisiere. . . . . are used only for unique tasks in preparing a few menu items. Much oj this specialized equipment is quite e:\pe'lsive and fou nd 0111y in food manufactUring operations or specialized kitcbens; a discllssion of it is beyond the scope of tbis chapter. Bn·ef descl1ptions of some of tbese specialized devices are, bowevel; fo/md ill tbe Glossmy. Baking paIlS and tools are discussed in Chapter 28, PrinCiples of the Bakesbop. Tbis cbapter is illustrated with generic draWings because manl/fac/urers' designs differ. \fie end this chapter with a discussion of hall' a professional kitchen sholild be designed aud organized. Before using any eqUIpment, stlldy tbe operator's manlla/ or have someone e.:rperienced with the PCl11iclllar item instmct ),011 on proper procedu res for its lise and cleaning. And remember, always think safety.
STANDARDS FOR TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT NSF International (NSF), previously known as the National Sanitation Foundation, promulgates consensus standards for the design, construction and installation of kitchen tools, cookware and equipment. Many states and municipalities require that food service operatio ns use only NSF-crnified equipment. Although NSF cenification is voluntary, most m:lnufacrurers submit their designs to NSF for cenification to show that they are suitable for use in professional food service oper.l1ions. Certified equipment bears the NSF mark shown in Figure 5.1. NSF standards reflect the following requiremenLS:
FIGIJRF. 5.1
71Je NSF Mark
J. Equipment must be easily cleaned. 2. All food contad surfa ces must be nontoxic (under intended end use conditions), nonabsorbent, corrosion resistant and nonreactive. 3. All food contact surfaces mllSt be smooth, that is, free of pits, cracks, crevices, ledges, rivet heads and bolts.
roOfS AND EQUIPMENT r""'\!\.
4. Internal comers and edges must be rounded and smooth; external corners and angles muSt be smooth and sealed. . S. Cooting materials must be nontoxic and easily' cleaned; coatings must resist chipping and cracking. 6. Waste and waste liquids must be easily removed.
79
I"
SELECllNG TOOLS AND EQUIPMENt ..n-, In general, only commercial food service tools and equipment should be used in a professional kitchen. HOllsebold tools and appliances not NSF certified may not withstand the rigors of a professional kitchen. Look for tools that are well constructed. For example, joints should be welded, nO! bonded with solder; handles should be comfortable, with rounded oorders; plastic and rubber pans should be seamless. Before purchasing Of leasing any equipment, yOll should evaluate several factors:
Table-Mounted ClIII Opeller
I. Is this equipment necessary for producing menu items? 2 Will this equipment perfOffil the job required in the space available? 3. Is this equipment the most economical for the operation's specific needs? 4. Is this equipment easy to clean, maintain and repair?
HAND TOOLS ..n-, Hand tools are designed to aid in cutting, shaping, moving or combining foods. They have few, if any, moving parts. Knives, discussed separately later, are the most important hand tools. Others are metal or rubber spatulas, spoons, whisks, tongs and specialized cutters. In addition to the items shown here, many hand tools designed for specific tasks, such as pressing tortillas or pitting cherries, are available. Sturdiness, durability and safety are the watchwords when selecting hand tools. Choose tools that can withstand the heavy use of a professional kitchen ,Ind those that are easily cleaned.
) Pit/in, Slotled ami Perforated Spoons
~llgetabfe Peeler
Cbefs Fork Melon &/1 Culler (The smaller end is also known as a Parisian Scoop) Meat Ala/let
&IJoon and Rigid Wblsks
Zester
Grill Spatula Straight Tongs-
Rubber Spatula
Straight Spatula (Cake Spatula)
80
~I
CIIAPTER5
Knives are the most impoI1ant items in your tool kit. With a sharp knife, the skilled chef can accomplish a number of tasks more quickly and efficien~y than any machine. Good-quality knives are expensh'e but will last for many years with proper care. Seled casily sharpened, well-construded knives that are comfortable and balanced in your hand. Knife construction and commonly used knives are discussed here; knife safety and care as well as cuning tech· niques are discussed in Chapter 6, Knife Skills.
Knife Construction A good knife begins with a single piece of metal, stamped, cut or-best of all-forged and tempered into a blade of the desired shape. nlC mctals generally used for knife blades arc: 1. Carbon steel-An alloy of carbon and iron, it is traditionally used for bladcs because it is soft enough to be sharpened easily. It corrodes and discolors easily, however, especially when used with acidic foods. 2. StainJess steel-It will not rust, comxle or discolor and is extremely durable. But a stainless steel blade is much more difficult to sharpen than a carbon steel.onc, although once an edge is established, it lasts longer than the edge on a carbon steel blade. 3. High carbon stainless steel-An alloy combining the best f~ttures of carbon steel and stainless steel, i1 neither corrodes nor discolors and can be sharpened almost as easily as carbon steel. It is now the most frequently used metal for blades.
cuuing t'dge
/ spIne fIGURE
A (Xlrtion of the blade, known as the tang, fits inside the handle. 11le best knives are construded with a full tang running the length of the handle; they also have a bolster where the blade meets the handle (the bolster is part of the blade, not a separate collar). Less expensive knives may have a 3/4-length tang or a thin ~ rattail ~ tang. Neither provides as much sUp(Xlrt, durability or balance as a full tang. Knife handles are often made of hard woods infused with plastic and riveted to the tang. Molded polypropylene handles lLre permanently bonded to a tang without seams or rivets. Any handle should be shaped for comfort and ground smooth to eliminate crevices where baderia can grow.
""
5.2 The pariS oja Chefs Knife
Knife Shapes and Sharpening &:juipment You wilt collect many knives during your career, many with specialized functions not described here. This list includes only the most basic knives and sharpening equipment.
Frencb or Cbef s Kl1ife An all-purpose knife used for chopping, slicing and mincing. Its rigid 8- to 14-inch-long blade is wide at the heel and tapers to a point at the tip.
TOOl.S AND EQU/f,IIENT ~
litilitjl KlIife An all-purpose knife used for cutling fruits and vegetables and carving poultry. Its rigid 6- to 8-inch-long blade is shaped like a chefs knife but narrower.
81
French or Chefs Knife
Bolling KlJife Asmaller knife with a thin blade used to separate meat from bone. The blade is usually 5 10 7 inches long and mar be flexible or rigid.
Utility Knife
Paring Knife Ashon knife used for detail work or cutting fruits and vegetables. The rigid blade is from 2 to 4 inches long. A tOLLrnee or bird's beak knife is similar to a paring knife but with II curved blade; it is used for cutting curved surfaces or tournecing vegetables.
Rigid &ming Knife
I'aring Knife
Cleaver The large, heavy rectangular blade is used for chopping or CUlling through bones. C/eat¥!r
Slicer A knife wilh a long, thin blade used primarily for slicing cooked meal. TIle tip may be round or pointed, and the blade may be flexible or rigid. A similar knife with a serrated edge is used for slicing bread or pastl)' items.
Flexible Slicer
•
Butcher Knife
•
•
Serrated Slicer
Somelimes known as a scimitar because Ihe rigid blade curves up in a 25-degree angle at the tip, it is used for fJbritaling raw meat and is available with 6-10 14-inch blades.
Butcher Kllife or Scimitar
Oyster and Clam Knives The shon, rigid blades of these knives are used to open oyster and clam shells. TIle tips are blunt; only the clam knife has a sharp edge.
Oyster Knife
Sharpening Slone Also known as a whetsto ne, it is used to put an edge on a dull blade. Ckm/Knife
Steel It is used to hone or straighten a blade immediately after and between sharpenings.
,sC:::::::::: Steel
Three-Sidcd S}x"pcning StOlle or Whetstone
82
""2\ •
CHAPl'ER 5
MEASURiNG AND PORTIONING DEVICES
--"
Recipe ingredients must be measured precisely, especially in the bakeshop, and foods should be measured when served to control portion size and cost The devices used to measure and portion foods are, for the most part, hand tools designed to make food preparation and service easier and more precise. The accuracy they afford prevents the COSt of mistakes made when accurate measurements are ignored, Measurements may be based upon weight (for example, grams, ounces. pounds) or \'olume (for example, teaspoons, cups, gallons). Therefore, it is necessaIY to have available several measuring devices, induding liquid and dry measuring cups and a variety of scales. TIlermometers and timers are also measuring devices and are discussed here. When purchasing measuring devices, look for quality constntction and accurate markings,
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Portion Scale
:-
Scales Scales are necessal)' to determine the weight of ::10 ingredient or a ponion of food (for example, the sliced meat for a sandwich). Portion scales use a spring mechanism, round dial and single nat tray. TIley are available calibrated in grams, ounces or pollnds, Electronic scales also use a spring mechanism but provide digital readouts. TIley are often required by law where foods are priced for sale by weight. Balance scales (also known as baker's scales) use a two-tray and free-we ights counterbalance system. A balance scale allows more weight to be measured at one time because it is not limited by spring capacity. Any scale must be properly used and maintained to provide an acrur.ne reading.
&"IWllce Scale or &"Ikers Scale
Volume Measures Ingredients may be measured by volume using measuring spoons and measuring cups. Measuring spoons sold as a set usually include 114-, 112-, I-teaspoon and I-tablespoon units (or the metric equivalent). Liquid measurMeasuring Spoons ing cups are available in capacities from 1 cup to 1 gallon. They have a lip or pour spout above the tOp line of measurement to prevent spills, r-,'Ieasuring cups for dl)' ingredients are ~ ... usually sold in sets of 114-, 113-, 1/2-, and I-cup units, They ... ",,==- . .. ~ do not have pour spouts, so the top of the cup is level \\~th ~." the lOp measurement specified, Glass measuring cups are nOl "" .::::- ". recommended because they can break. Avoid using bent or "'~'" _u dented measuring cups as the damage may distort the measureme nt capacity, liquid Measuring Cup Dry Measuring CliPS
~c~ ... ...
TOOlS AND EQUIPMENT ,~~
83
ladles Long-handled ladles are useful for portioning liquids such as stocks, sauces and soups. TIle capacity, in ounces, is stamped on the handle.
Portion Scoops Portion scoops (also known as dishers) resemble ice cream scoops. They
rome in a range of standardized sizes and have a lever-opel",lIed blade for releasing their contents. Scoops are useful for portioning salads, vegetables, muffin batters or other soft foods. A number, stamped on either the handle or the release mechanism, indicates the number of level scoopfuls per quart . The higher the scoop number, the smaller the scoop's capacity.
Tbermometers Various types of thermometers are used in the kitchen . Portioll Scoop
Stem-type thermomete rs, including instant-read models, are inserted into
foods \0 obtain te mperature readings between QOF (- 18°C) and 220"F (I04°C). Temperatures are shown on either a dial noted by an arrow or a digital readout. An instant-read thennometer is a small stem-type model, designed to be carried in a pocket and used to provide quick temperature readings. An instant-read thermometer should nOI be left in foods that are cooking because doing so damages the themlometer. Candy and fat thermometers measure temperatures up to 400"F (204"C) using mercury in a column of glass. A back d ip attaches the thermometer 10 the pan, keeping the chefs hands free. Be careful nO{ to subiect glass thermometers to quick temperature changes as the glass may shatter. Because proper temperatures must be maintained for holding and storing foods, oven and refrigerator thermometers are also useful. Selec: thermometers with easy-to-read dials or column divisions.
Timers Ponable kitchen timers are useful for any busy chef. Small digital timers can be carried in a pocket; some even time three funct ions at once. Select a timer with a loud alarm signal and long timing capability.
TABLE
5.1 ~
PORTION ScOOP CAPACITIES Approximate Weight'
S
6 8 10
12 16 !il
24 30
'"
I
U.S.
Mepic
U.S.
Metric
213 c. 1/2 c. 3 fl . oz. 1/3 c. 1/4 c. 1 1/2 n. oz. 1 1/3 fi. oz. 1 O. oz. 0.8 fl. oz. liZ O. oz.
160 ml 120 ml
:; oz. 4 oz. 3-3 1/2 oz. 2 lI2-3 oz. 2 oz. I 3/4 oz. I lI3 oz. 1 oz. 0.8 oz. 1/2 oz.
160 g 120 g
90 80 "' ml 60 ml 45 ml 40 ml 30 ml 24 ml 15 ml
,
'0
~
IllslolI/-Read Thermometer
1
Ca"dy Thermometer
~ == How TO GtuIJRATE A STE..,·1'YP£ THERMO.ttETER
Volume Number
Ladles
'Weights are approximate because they vary by food.
85-100 g 7s--BS g
60 g SO g 40 g 109 23 g 15 g
All stem-type thennometers should be calibrated alleast ~k1y as well as \\-henever they are dropped. To calibrate a stem-type thennometer, fiJI a glass with shaved ice, then add water. Place the themlOmeter in the ire sl~h and \\wt until the temperature reading stabiliw. Following the manufacturer's directions, adjust the themlometer's calibration nut Wltil the temperature reads 32°F WC). Check the calibration by returning the thennometer to the slush. Then repeat lhe procal.ure, substituting boiling water for the ire slush. and calibrate the thermometer at 212°F (lOO°C).
84
C!IAPl1!R 5
COOKWARE .n-, Cookware includes the Sallte pans and slockpots used on the stove top as weU as the roasting pans, hOlel pans and specialty molds used inside the oven
Cookware should be selected for its size, shape, ability to conduct heat evenly and overall quality of construction.
Metals and Heat Conduction Cookware that rails to distribute he:l! evenly may cause hOi spots that bum foods. Because different metals conduct heat al different r.ltes, and thicker larers of metal conduct heal morc evenly than thinner ones, the mOst important considerations when choosing cookware arc the type and thickness (known as the gauge) of the material used. No one cookware or material suiLS
C\'Cf}'
process or need, however; always select the most appropriate material for the task at hand.
Copper Copper is an excellent conduclOr: It heats rapidly and evenly and cools quickly. Indeed, unlined copper pots are unsurpassed for cooking sugar and fruit mixtures. But copper cookware is extremely expensive. It also requires 3 great deal of care and is often quite heavy. Moreover, because copper may react with some foods, copper cookware usually has a tin lining, which is soft and easily scratched. Because of these problems, copper is now often sand· wiched between layers of stainless steel or aluminum in the bottom of roo and pans.
Aluminum Aluminum is the metal used most commonly in commercial utensils. II is lightweight and, after copper, conducts heat best. Aluminum is a soft melal, though, so it should be treated with care to avoid dents. Do not use aluminum containers for storage or for cooking acidic foods because the metal readS chemically with many foods. Light-colored foods , such as soups or sauces, may be discolored when cooked in aluminum, especially if stirred with a metal whisk or spoon. Anodized aluminum has a hard, dark, corrosion-resistant surface that helps prevent sticking and discoloration.
Stainless Steel Although stainless steel condum and retains heat poorly, it is a hard, durable metal particularly useful for holding foods and for low-temperature cooking where hot spots and scorching are nO{ problems. Stainless steel polS and pans are available with aluminum or copper bonded to the bottom or with an aluminum-layered core. Although expensive, such cookware combines the rapid, uniform heat conductiviry of copper and aluminum with the strength, durabiliry and nonreaaivity of stainless steel. Stainless steel is also ideal for slOrage containers because it does nOt react with foods.
Cast Iron Cast-iron cookware distributes heat evenly and holds high temperatures well. It is often used in griddles and large skillets. Although relatively inex· pensive, cast iron is extremely heavy and brittle. It must be kept properly can· ditioned and dry to prevent rust and pitting.
- - -
- -
7001.5 AND EQUIPMENT
Glass Glass retains heat well but conducts it poorl y. It does not react with foods. Tempered glass is suitable for microwave cooking provided it does not have any metal band or decoration. Commercial operations rarely use glass cook· \\'are because of the danger of breakage. Ceramics Ceramics, induding earthenware, porcelain and stoneware, are used pri-
marily for baking dishes, casseroles and baking stones because they conduct heat uniformly and retain lempemtures well. Ceramics are nooreactive, inexpensive and generally suitable for use in a microwave oven (provided there is no metal in the glaze). Ceramics :lre easily chipped or cracked, however, and should not be used over a direct flame. Also, quick temperature changes may (':luse the cookware 10 crack or shatter.
Plastic Plastic containers are frequently used in commercial kitchens for food storage or service, but they cannot be used for heating or cooking except in a microw3\'e oven. Plastic microwave cookware is made of phenolic resin. It is easy to clean, relatively inexpensive and rigidly shaped, but its glasslike struclUre is brittle, and it can crack or shatter.
E/lome/ware Pans lined with enamel should not be used for cooking; in many areas, their use in commercial kitchens is prohibited by law. The enamel can chip or crack easily, providing good places for bacteria to grow. Also, the chemicals used to bond the ena mel to the cookware can cause food poisoning if ing<>Ied.
~ ======
RO,tfAN POTS, SOlffllERN STIUS AND CRAFT FAIRS
lead is poisonous. Ingesting it can cause sepains, anemia and central ner.oos system disorders, including intelligence and memory deficits and behaYioral
I1!re gastrointestinal
mang<> The unv.itting and dangerous consumpa l~ is not limited to children eating ]ftling paint chips. Some historians suggest that the use of lead cookware and lead·lined 5IIlrage vessels and water pipes may have caused pervasi\"e lead poisoning among the elite d the Roman Empire and thus contribulfd 10 the Empire's decline. There is also ample evidence that from ancient times until just a f~ hundred years ago, wine lI'as heated In lead ressels to sweeten it. This had a disastim
trous effect on the drinker and, for several ren· Illries in countries throughout EUIqle, on the wine purveyor as .....ell. The fomler could be poisoned, and the latter could be punished by death for selling adulteratfd wine. More recenuy, it was found that mJCh of the moonshine \\"hiskey produced in the American South contained lead in potentially IOxic ranges. The source was determined 10 be the lead solder used in homemade stills, sane of which even included old lead-rontaining car radiators as
oondense<>. Although commen::ially lvailable cookware will notcontain lead, becareful ofimportedpottery and th!R 10\'l~ly hand-thrown polS found al craft fairs-therecould be le1d. in the glaze.
~
85
86
~ , CHJ.P1f.R 5
~r •
)
Nonstick Coatings Without affecting a metal's ability to conduct heat, a polymer (plastic) known as polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and marketed under the trade· .. names Teflon~ and Silverstone~ may be applied to many types of cookware, It provides a slippery, nonreaaive finish that preventS foOO from sticking and allows the use of less fat in cooking. Cookware with nonstick coatings requires a great deal of care, however, since the coatings can scratch, chip and blister. Do not use metal sJX>Ons or spatulas in cookware with nonstick coatings,
Common Cookware Pots
Stockpot with Spigot
PotS are large round vessels with straight sides and two loop handles. A,·aU· able in a range of sizes based on volume, they are llsed on the stove lOp for making stocks or soups, or for boiling or simmering foods, panicularly where rapid evaporation is not desired. Flat or fitted lids are available.
Pails Pans are round vessels with one long handJe and straight or sloped sides. They are usually smaller and shallower than potS. Pans are available in a range of diameters and are llsed for general stove top cooking, especialJy saUie ing, frying or redllcing liquids rapidly.
Woks Originally used to prepare Asian foods , woks are now found in many pro. fessional kitchens. Their round bottoms and curved sides diffuse heat and make it easy to toSS or stir contents. Their large domed lids retain heat for steaming vegetables. Woks arc useful for quickly sauteing Strips of meat, simmering a whole fish or deep-frying appetizers. Stove top woks range in diameter from 12 to 30 inches; larger built-in gas or eleCtric models are also available .
Sauce Pot
•
,
f~
•
SautQir (Slmighl Side$)
If'ok
"
Stlllceptl1l
cast -froll Skillet
(Griswold)
SaUleuse (Sloped Sides)
700LS AND EQUIPMENT -:-YI"
87
Hotel PallS
Hotel pans (also known as steam table pans) are rectangular stainless steel pans designed to hold food for service in steam tables. Hotel pans are also used for baking, roasting or pollChing inside an oven. Perforated pans useful for drnining, steaming or icing down foods are also available. TIle standard full-size pan is 12 by 20 inches, with pans one-half. one-third, one-sixth and OIher fradions of this size available. i-I(){el pan depth is standardized at 2 inches (referred to as a "200 plIO"), 4, 6 and 8 inches.
)
Jl/ollis
Pate molds are :Ivail:lble in sever-Jl shapes and sizes, and are usually made from tinned steel. Those with hinged sides, whether smooth or patterned, ,Ire more properly referred to as (Xire ell crotire molds. The hinged sides make it (>Jsier to remove the b:lked pate, Terrine molds are tf
Timbales
, rp. ,
pati ell Crolile Mold ROlllltl Mesb Strailler
CoI(1l1der
STRAINERS AND SIEVES Stt.liners and sieves are used primarily to aerate and remove impurities from dry ingredients and df'Jin or puree cooked foods. Strainers, colanders, dmm siel'es, china caps and chinois are nonl11echanical devices with a sta inless sleel mesh or SCf(.-'tn through which food passes. The size of the mesh or screen varies from extremely fme to several millimeters wide; select the fineness beSt suited for the task at hand. DnllII Siet'e (T(llI/is)
Chinois (Inti Cbina Cap Both the chinois and china cap are cone-shaped metal stf'Jiners. The conical shape allows liquids to fi lter through small openings. A chinois is made from a very fine mesh, while a china cap has a perfor.ued melal body. Both are used for stnlining stocks and sauces, with the chinois being panicularly useful for consomme. A china cap can 100 be used with a pestle to puree soft foods. Cbillois
Cbil/(I CliP
88
C1W'7'ER 5
Skimmer (wd Spider Both the skimmer and spider are long-handled tools used to re move foods or impurities from liquids. The flat , perforated disk of a skimmer is used for skimming stocks or remO\ing foods from soups or stocks. The spider has a finer mesh disk, whieb makes it beller for retrieving itemS from hot fat. Woode n-handled spiders are available but are less sturdy and harder to clean than al~ metal designs.
Cheesecloth is a loosely woven cotton gllUze used for straining stocks and sauces and wrapping poullry or fish for poaching. Cheesecloth is also indispensable for making &1chels. Always rinse cheesecloth thoroughly before use; this removes lint and prevents the cheesecloth from absorbing other liquids.
Skimmer
Food Mill A food mill purees and strains food at the same time. Food is placed in the hopper and a hand-crank mechanism turns a blade in the hopper againSi a perforated disk, forcing the food through the disk. l'o'lost models have interchangeable disks with various-sized holes. Choose a mill that can be taken :lpan easily for cleaning.
Spider
Flour Sifter A sifter is used for aerating, blending and removing impurities from dry ingredients such as flour, cocoa and leavening agenLS. The 8-cup hand-crank sifter shown here uses four curved rods 10 brush the con-
~
;~;~;;il~e~",;s~ through screen.
a curved mesh Sifte r shou ld The have a medium-fine screen and a comfonable handle.
Flour Sifter
Foot/Mill
PROCESSING EQUIPMENT ,n., Processing equipment includes both electrical and nonelectrical mechanical devices used 10 chop, puree, slice, grind or mix foods. Before using any such equipment, be sure to review ilS operating procedures and ask for assistance if necessary. Always tu rn Ihe equipment off and disconnect the power before disassembling, cleaning or moving the appl iance. Any problems or malfunc· tions should be reponed immediately. Never place your band into allY machinery whell the power is 011 . Processing eqllipme/lt is powerful and can cmlSi serious injll ry.
,
Slicer An electric slicer is used to cut meat, bread, cheese or raw vegetables into uniform slices. II has a circular blade that rotates at high speed. Food is placed in a ca rrier, then passed (manually or by an electric motor) against the blade. Slice thickness is determined by the distance between the blade and the carrier. Because of the speed wilh which the blade rotates, foods can be cut into extremely thin slices very quickly. An electric slicer is conve-
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
""a.
nien! for pre paring moderate to large quantities of food, but the time required disassemble and d ean the equipment makes it impradical when slicing only a few items. \0
Mal1do/ille \
A mandoline is a manually operated slicer made of stainless steel with adjustable slicing blades. [t is also used to make julienne and waffie.cut slices. Its narrow, reaangular \ _ ...__ body sits on the work counter at a 45\ degree angle. f oods are passed against ~~, a blade to obtam uniform shces It is \ useful for sllcmg small quantIties of \ fnuts or vegetables when usmg a I large eleclnc sheer would be unwarranted To avoid mjll!)', always use a hand guard or steel Mal/do/file glove when using a mandoline.
.,
.!...
_______
Food Chopper or Buffalo Chopper This chopper is used to process moderate to large quantities of
food to a uniform size, such as chopping onions or grinding bread for crumbs. The food is placed in a large bowl rotating beneath a hood where curved bl:ldes chop it. The size of the cut depends on how long the food is left in the machine. Buffalo choppers :Ire a\'ailable in floor or tabletop models. The motor can usually be fitted with a variety of other tools such as a meat grinder or a slicer/shredder, making it even more useful.
e
J
Food Processor A food processor has a motor housing with a removable bowl and Sshaped blade, It is used, for example, to puree cooked foods , chop nuts, prepare compound butters and emulsify sauces. Special disks can be added I that slice, shred or julienne foods. Bowl capaciry and motor power va!)'; selea a model large enough for your mOst common tasks.
Blender 1110Ugh similar in Food Processor principle to a food processor, a blender has a tall, narrow food cOnlainer and a four-pronged blade. [IS design is better for processing liquids or liquefying foods qu ickly. A blender is used to prepare 5IIlOO1h drinks, puree soups and sauces, blend bauers and chop ice. A vertical cutter/mixer (VC.M) operates like a very large, po werful blender. A VOl is usually floor-mounted and has a capacity of 15 to 80
quans. Heall)'-Dul) ' Blender
C
I I
'.
Buffalo Cbopper with Slicer al/d Meat Gn'lIder Attachmellts
89
90
CHAPTER 5
Mixer
1-101 Paddle
A venical mixer is indispensable in the bakeshop and moo: kitchens. 'nle U-shaped arms hold a metal mixing bowl in place: the selected mixing attachment fits onto Ihe rotating head. The three common mixing attachments are the whip (used for whipping eggs or cream), the paddle (used for general mixing) and the '1 dough hook (used for kneading bread). 1\lost mix~ dil",,,, have several operating speeds. Bench models range in capacity from 4.5 to 20 quarts, while floor mixers GUI hold as much as 140 quarts. Some mixers can be fitted wilh shredder/slicers, meat grinders, juicers or power Whip strainers, making the equipme nt more versatile.
juicer
2O-Quart Mixer tllld Alttlchmenls
Dough Hook Two types of juicers are available: reamers and extractors. Reamers, also known as citrus juicers, remove juice from citrus fru its. TIley can be manual or electric. Manual models use a lever arm to squeeze the fru it with increased pressure. They :Ire most ofren used to preplt re small 10 moderate amounts of juice for cooking or beverages. Juice extractors are elec'~--trical devices that create juice by liquefying raw fruits, vegetables and herbs. They use centrifugal force to filter out fiber and pulp. ' - - - - - -- - -
e
--
Ci(rtlsjllicer
STORAGE CONTAINERS
d
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Storage Containers
Proper SlOrage containers are necessary for keeping leflovers and opened packages of food ~I fe for consumption. Proper storage can also reduce the costs incurred by waste or spoilage. Allhough stainless steel pans such as hotel pans are su itable and useful for some items, the expense of stainless steel and the lack of air-tight lids makes these pans impr:tctical for gener:tl stor:tge purposes. Aluminum containers are not recommended because the metal can react with even mildly acidic items. Glass containers are generally nOl: allowed in commercial kitchens because d the hazards of broken glass. The most useful storage containers are those made of high-density plastic such as polyethylene and polypropylene. Storage comaincrs must have well-fitting lids and should be available in a variety of sizes, including some that are small enough to hold even minimal quantities of food without allowing too much exposure to oxygen. Round and square plastic containers are widely available. Flat, snap-on lids allow containers to be stacked for more efficient storage. Containers may be clear or opaque white, which helps protect light-sensitive foods. larger comainers may be fitted with handles and spigots, making them especially suited for storing stock. Some storage containers are marked with graduated measure· ments so that content quantity can be determined at a glance. Large quantities of dry ingredients, such as flour, sugar and rice, can be stored in rolling bins. The bins should be seamless with rounded corners for easy cleaning. They should have well-fitting but easy-to-open lids and should move easily on well-balanced casters.
,
roolS AND EQUIPMENT ~
HFAW EQUIPMENT Heal)' equipment includes the gas-, electric- or steam-operated appliances
used for cooking, reheating or holding foods. Heavy equipment also includes dishwashers and refriger;nion unilS. Heavy equipment should be installed in a lUed location determined by the kitchen's tmffic flow and space limitations. Heavy equipment may be purchased or leased new or used. Used equipment is most often purchased in an erfon to save money. Allhough the initial cost is gener:llly less for used equipment, the buyer should also consider the lack of a manufacturer's warranl}' or dealership guarantee and how the equip-
ment was maintained by the prior owner. Functional used equipment is satisfactory for back-or-the-house areas, bUI il is usually bener to purchase new equipment if it will be visible to the customer. Leasing equipment may be appropriate for some operations. The COSt of leasing is less than purchasing and, if something goes wrong with the equipment , the operator is generally nOt responsible for repairs or service ch;lrges.
Stove TOps Store tops or r:mges are often the most important cooking equipment in the kitchen. TIley h:lVe one or more burners powered by gas or electricity. The burners may be open or covered with a cast-iron or steel plate. Open burners supply quick, direct heat that is easy to regulate. A steel plate, known as a flat lOp. supplies even but less intense heat. Although it takes longer 10 Ix':!tthan a burner. the flat tOp supports heavier weights and makes a larger area available for cooking. Many stoves include both flat tops and open burner arrangements. Griddles are similar to flat tops except they are made of a thinner metal plate. Foods are usually cooked directly on the griddle's surface, not in pots or pans which can nick or scrJtch the surface. The surface should be properly cleaned and conditioned after each use. Griddles are popular for short-order and fast-food-type operations.
I
Ot'CIIS
An oven is an enclosed space where food is cooked by being surGrit/(lle rounded with hoI. dry air. Conventional ovens are often located beneath the stove top. They have a heating element located at the unit 's bottom or floor, and pans are placed on adjustable wire racks inside the oven's cavit~'. See Figure 5.3. Conventional ovens may also be separate. free-standing units or decks stacked one on top of the other. In stack ovens, p:ms are pbced directly on the deck or floor and not on wire r:lCks. Convection ovens use internal fans to circulate the hot air. This tend:; to cook foods more quickly and evenly. Convection ovens are almost always free-standing unilS, powered either by gas or eled.ricity. Because convection ovens cook foods more quickl}', temperatures may need to be reduced by 25 cF to 50°F (IO"C to lO"C) from those recommended for com·entional ovens. Microwave OvellS Microwave ovens are electrically powered ovens used to cook or reheat foods. They are available in :I range of sizes and power settings. Microwave ovens will nOl brown foods unless fitted with special browning elements. Microwave cooking is discussed in more detail in Chapter 9, Principles of Cooking.
-
Slack O~'ell
I
9/
92
C/W'I'ER 5
FIGURE 5.3 G(lS bumer and fiat-lOP rallge with dllal ot'(ms alld all overhead broiler (salamander).
Broilers and Grills
Ot'erhead Broiler
Broilers and grills are generally used to prepare meats, fish and poultry. For a grill, the heat source is beneath the rack on which the food is placed. For a broiler, the heat source is above the food . Most broilers are gas powered; grills may be gas or electric or may bum wood or charcoal. A salamander is a small overhead broiler primarily used to finish or top-brown foods. See Figure 5.3. A rotisserie is similar to a broiler except that the food is placed on a revolving Spit in front of the heat source. 11le unit may be open or enclosed like an oven; it is most often used for cooking fXJU ltry or mealS.
Tilting Skillets
G(lS Grill
Tilting skillets are large, free-standing, flat-boUomed pans about 6 inches deep with an internal heating elemenl below the pan's bottom. They are lLsllally made of stainless steel with
D Till Skillel
TOOLS AND EQUIPMEN!' 1 cover,
and have a hand-crank mechanism that turns or lills the pan 10 pour out the contents, Tilting skillets can be used as StOCkPOIS, braziers, fry pans, griddles or steam tables, making them one of the most versatile of commercial appliances,
Steam Kettles Steam kettles (also known as steam-jacketed kettles) are similar to stockpots except they are heated from the oonom and sides by steam circulming between layers of stainless steel. 11le steam may be generated internally or from an outside source. Because steam heats the kettle's sides, foods cook more quickly and evenly than they would in a pot silting on Ihe Stove tOp. Steam ket.t1es are mast often u:'I:U for making sauces, soups, custards or stocks. Steam kettles are available in a range of sizes, from a 2-gallon tabletop model to a 100-gallon floor model. Some models have a tilling mechanism that allows the rontents to be poured out; others have a spigot near the oouom through which liquids can be drained.
Steamers
Steam Kef/Ie
Pressure and convection steamers are used to cook foods rapidly and e\'enly, using direct contact with steam, Pressure steamers heat water above the boiling point in sealed compartments; the high temperature and sealed compartment increase the internal pressure in a range of 4 to 15 pounds per square inch. The increased pressure and temperature cook the foods ],Ipidly. Convection steamers generate steam in an internal ooiler, then release it over the foods in a cooking chamber. Both types of steamer are ideal for cooking vegetables with a minimal loss of flavor or nutrients. Deep-Fat Fryers Deep-fat fryers are used only to fry foods in hOI fat. TIle fryers may be either gas or electric and should have thermostatic controls to maintain the fat at a preset temperature. Frying procedures arc discussed in Chapler 21 , DeepFrying.
Convection Steamer
Refrigerators Proper refrigeration space is an essential component of any kitchen. Many foods must be SlOred at low temperatures to maintain quality and safety, Most commercial refrigeration is of two types: walk-in units and reach-in or upright units. A walk-in is a large, room-sized oox capable of holding hundreds of pounds of food on adjustable shelves . A separate freeze r walk-in may be positioned nearby or even inside a refrigerated walk-in. Reach-ins may be individual units or parts of a bank of units, each with shelves approximately (he size of a full sheet pan, Reach-in refrigerators and freezers art" usually located throughout the kitdlen to provide quick access to foods. Small units may also be placed beneath the work counters. Freezers and refrigerators are available in a wide range of sizes and door designs to suit any operation. Other forms of commercial refrigeration include chilled drawers located beneath a work area that are JUSt large enough to accommodate a hotel pan, :lOd display cases used to show foods to the customer.
Disbwasbers Mechanical dishwashers are available to wash, rinse and sanitize dishware, glassware, cookware and utensils. Small models clean one rack of items at a time, while larger models can handle several racks simultaneously
DeeP-Fllt F"ocr
("'21,
93
94
CIWlFR5 on :I conveyor belt system. Sanitation is accomplished either with extreme])' hot water 080°F/82°C) or with chemicals aUIOITh11ically dispensed during !he final rinse cycle. Any dishwashing area should be carefully organized for ef· ficient use of equ ipment :Ind employees, and \0 prevent recontamination of dean items.
B UFFET EQUIPMENT
.?-,
Foo:! service operations Iha! prepare buffets or cater off-premise events need a variety of specialized equipment 10 ensure thaI food is handled safely and
Insulated Climer
efficiently and displayed appropriately. Proper temperatures must be main· tained during transponation, display and service. Insulated carriers hold food at its current temperature for a time. They are
designed to hold hotel pans or sheet pans, and are available with wheels for easy movement. Some are available with a spigot for senring hot or cold beverages. Any carrier should be easy to clean and of a convenient size for the space available and the type of operation. Temperatllfc remains a concern when arranging food on a buffet table. Chafing d ishes are commonly used for keeping hot foods hot during service. Chafmg dishes are designed so that cans of solid fuel can be placed under a deep hotel pan of hot water. Like a bain marie, the hot water then helps maintain the temperature of food placed in a second hotel pan suspe nded over the firs!. Chafing dishes, however, should never be used 10 heat f<XXi. Chafing dishes are available in severa l sizes and shapes, bUi the mOSt convenient are those based on the size of a standard hotel pan. Round, deep chafing dishes are usefu l for serving soups or sauces. Exteriors can be plain or ornate, and made of silver, copper or stainless steel. Roast beef, turkey, ham or other large cuts of meat are sometimes carved on a buffet in front of guests. Heat lamps can be used to keep these foods warm. Heal lamps are also useful for maint:lining the tempeTlture of pizza or fried foods, which might become soggy if held in a chafing dish. Pastries, breads and cold foods can be arranged on a variety of platters, trays, baskets and serving pieces, depending on the size and style of the buffet. Some of the most elegant and traditional serving pieces arc nat display mirrors. These may be plastic or glass and are available in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. The edges should be sealed in an easy-to-dean pl:lstic to prevent chipping. Although many of these items Gm be rented, oper'JIions that regularly sen'c buffets may prefer to invest in their own transponation and serving equipment.
Heat lamp
Chafillg Wsh
SAFETY EQUIPMENT Cenain items are critical to the well-being of a food service operation al· though they are not used in food preparation. TIlese are safely devices , man)' of which are required by federal, state or local law. Failing to include safety equ ipment in a kitchen or f
, TOOlS AND EQUJPMENf
TAStE 5. 2 J'r> FIRE ExTINGUISHERS
.
Symool
aa~
B .>
Cbs. C
••
u'" Fires involving wood, paper. cloth 0, plastic
Fires involving oil, grl':tsc or fl:lOlrllablc chemicals Fires involving electrical equipment or wiring
Combination extinguishers-AB, BC and ABC-arc also available.
Fire Extinguishers Fire extinguishers are canisters of foam, dry chemicals (such as sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate) or pressurized water used to extinguish srroll fires. They must be placed within sight of and easily reached from the \\'ork areas in which fires arc likely to occur. Different classes of extinguishers use different chemicals to fight different types of fires. The appro prime class mU~1 be used for the specific fire. See Table 5.2. Fire extinguishers must be recharged and checked from time to time. Be sure they have not been discharged, tampered with or otherwise damaged. Ill/Ii/lltion Systems Yentilation systems (also called ventilation hoods) are commonly inst:.lIed OI·er cooking equipment to remo\'e va(Xlrs. he:H and smoke. Some systems include fi re extinguishing agents or sprinklers. A properly oper:Hing hood 0l3kes the kitchen more comfortable for the staff ;md reduces the danger of fire. The system should be designed, installed and inspected by professionabo then cleaned and maintained regularly.
Firs/-Aid Kits First·aid supplies should be Stored in a dearly marked box, conspicuously IocJled ncar food preparation areas. State and local laws may specify the kit"s exact contents. Generally, they should indude a first-aid manual, bandages, gauze dreSSings, adhesive tape, antiseptics, scissors. cold packs <;nd other suppli~. The kit should be checked regularly and items replaced as needed. In addition, cards wilh emergency telephone numbers should be placed inside the ~rst-aid kit and near a telephone.
THE PROFESSIONAL KIrCHEN .n-, The kitchen is the heart of the food service operation. nlere, food and (){her items are received, stored, prepared and plated for service; dining room stafT places orders, retrieves foods ready for service and returns dirty service items; dishes and other wares are de:lned and stored: and the chef conducts business. But commercial space is expensive, and most food service operators recognize that the greater number of customers served, the greater the revenues. Often this translates into a large dining ·area and small kitchen and storage facilities. Therefore, when designing a kitchen, it is im(Xlrtant to use the space wisely so that each of its fllnoions can be accomplished efficiently.
c.....a. 95
96
r1"t
C11AP1ER 5
~
ALExIs SOYER
(1809-1858) The father of Ole contemporary celebrity chef was Alexis Soyer, a Frenchman whose tragically short I'.urking life was spent mostly in London. He Yo':t'i a flamboyan~ talented and egocentric shOl'.mllY. lie was also a renowned chef, restaurateur, social activist, author, purveyor of prepared foods and inrentor. In 1831, Soyer left his thriving catering business and restaurant in Paris for London. (}. scandal was rumored to be behind his sudden departure.) l1lere he quickly established a reputation as a talented chef in the latest French
fashion. By 1838, he was employed at a gentlemen's club called the Reform. Able to asslst in planning the club's new kitchen facility, 5o',tr installed the most mOOem equipment gai ()\~ns with temperature controls, a steam· driven mecluUlical spit and a storage locker cooled by running water. From this mOOem kitchen he produced his signature dish: lamb chops Reform. The Reform was founded by members dille IJberai party, a political party interested in s0cial refonn. Their chef soon joined the party
Aleds SoJ"er
PbcW rourttry of Barbara 1ffrm1On.
"The Kitchen o..,r.utInellt Ii the Reform Club" (1841). "To show them al one glanct:' ""'Ole !he SpfdakJr, ''b partition walls are CUI :II\'a)., and a bin!"$ e)"t lie\\' is gi''I:Il Ii the several kilclEns. lanlcrs, sculleril'S, and bauerie d! cuisine; the different functionarifs are at their posts, and the aro::mpliWd ctre, Monsieur Sayer, is in \be ~ Ii plInlln& out 10 ~ r~\OUMI liSilOr!he variooo; cootriV2J1CtS suggr:ued by his i:J#I1u1ty and experienc:t."
/ /
700[$ AND EQUIPMENT
rani..;. Hede\'el~ recipes for inexpensh'e, nuUitioussoops for the working class and in 1847 'i61\ to Ireland and opened soup kitchens 10 Ieed those 'W1Io were starVing as a result of the
Polato Famine. His most importalll writings reflect his ink'resIS in good food for the masses. 'Ole in~ audience for tbe /ff()(U'111 flollSl!Wlje (1849) was the middle class; the growing urban '/oQrkingclass was the intended audience for his SImfId book, A Schilling Cookery' for Ibe Pea'" (1855).
In 1851, So),er opened his (r.r.'lllal'ishly decor:uOO and expensil'e.ly equipped restaurant called the Gastronomic Syrnpooium of All Nalions. [t closed shortly thereafter, in part because of Soyer's debts, in part because he lost his ~rating license as a result of the l'O\\iliness in the restaurant's American-style bar, at which CUStomelS were publicly served cocktails for the firsl time in London. In addition to cooking and writing, Soyer created and marketed several prepared food items: Sorer's Sauce, Sorer's Nectar and Soyer's
~~
97
Relish. lie was also fa<.cinliOO I\ith kitchen gadgets and im-enled several, including a sink stopper, jelly mold, egg cooker and coffeepot. TIle most notable, hov.'e\-er, was a portable "Magic Store" weighing less than 4 pounds, similar 10 a modem chafing dish. Soy1er's final triumph was in the Crimean War (1854--1857). He developed anll)' rations, reorganized field and hospital kitchens and introduced one of his last inventions, ~le campaign stove. PoMahle, efficient and requiring lillie fuel, it was used by the British amlY for the next 90 years.
98
,~
aWTf'ER 5
Hegardless of the kitchen's size, its design begins with a consideration of the i:lsks to be performed. Analyzing the STATIONS menu identifies these tasks. A restaur-mt fe:nuring steaks lmd chops, for example. will need areas to fabricate and Scoions Stations grill meats. If it relics on commercially prepared desserts and breads, it will not need a bakeshop but will still need HOI-foods section Broiler station splIce to hold and plate baked goods. Fry station Once llll food preparation tasks are identified. a work Griddle station area for ellCh panicular task is designated. TIlese wort SautC/sauce Slation areas are called work stations. At a steak restaurant, an Holding imponant work station is the broiler. If the restaur:tlll Carde-llums£'r .section Sabd greens cleaning serves fried foods , it will also need a fry station. The size Sabd preparation and design of each work station is determined by the 1'01Cold foods preparation Sandwich station ume of food the oper.uion intends to produce. Showpiece preparntion Usually work stations using the s.1me or similar equipment for related tasks are grouped into work sections. See Bakery section Mixing station Dough holding and proofing Table 5.3. (Note Ih:lt work stations correslx>nd to the Dough rolling and forming kitchen brigade system discussed in Chapter 1, ProfessionBaking and cooling alism.) For example, in a typical full-service restaurant, Dessert prcparntion' there will be a single hot-foods section. It ca n consist of Frozen dessert prcparntion' broiler, fry, griddle, saute and sauce stations. 60th ad\'ance Plating desserts' preparation and last-minute cooking may be performed in Banquet seaion Steam cooking the hot-foods section. The principal cooking equipment (a Dry heat cooking (roosting, range, broiler, deep-fat fryer, oven, griddle, and SO on) will broiling) be arranged in a line under a ventilation hood. A typical Holding and plating plan for this hot-foods section is shown in Figure 5.4. Al· Short-order section Griddle station though each work station within the hOt-foods section may Fry slillion be staffed by a different line cook, the proximity of the sta· Broiler statIon tio ns allows one line cook to cover more than one station HOI bevcrngc station if the kitchen is shan-handed or when business is slow. Cold beverage station Merely considering the pla n of the work station or secAlcoholic beveruge station tion is not enough, howe\'er. When designing the work area, one must also consider the elevation. TIlat is, :I tThese stations are sometimes fou nd in the garde- mal/ger kitchen designer not only examines what equipment should section. be placed next to the other (for example, the range next to the deep-fat fryer), but also what equipment and Storage facilities can be placed beneath Of on top of the other. For eXlllllple, in a bakeshop, rolling storage cans for flour lind sug.1r or an under-the-counter refrigerator for eggs and dairy products may be located beneath the work surface. while mixing bowls and dry ingredients are stored o n shelves above. Figure 5.5 illustrates the ele\'ation for the hot-foods section whose plan is shown in Figure 5.4. Ideally, each station should be designed so that the cook takes no more than three steps in any direction to perform all of his or her assigned station tasks. In addition to the work sections where the menu items are produced, a Iypical restaurant kitchen includes areas dedicated to:
l ABLE
5.3 .n-.
WORK SECno~S AND TllmR
I. Receiving (/lid storillg foods and other items. There should be separate freezer, refrigerator and dry-goods storage fac ilities. Each should have proper temperature, humidity and light controls in o rder to properly and safely maintain the stored items. Depending upon the operation's size and the work stations' specific needs, either Ihere can be a central storage area or each staton or section can maintain its own storage facilities . Typically, however, there is a combination of central and section storage. For example, up to 100 pounds of flour and sugar can be sto red in rolling bins
l
roofS AND EQUIPMENT ®«(J\~)
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I Corll'ectJon OI"CIl 2 Undel'Counter fretZt'r Unil 3 Griddle Top 4 Cheese! Mcller ; 6 Humer Top/Ol"tll &low 6 Salamander 7 Undcr-CoUnl~r Refrigeralor 8 Hroller Top 9 SUlnless Slet'l wori! TlIble \lim Open Sheh'eS
12 Sleam Table lIim Open Shtll'eS &10"" 13 S!alnless Sleel Dual Shelf lIim Top Ileal Rod 14 Undel'(,ounlcr frw.er lIim Work Surface 15 Conl"t1orToa5(('r 16 !lain Marie lIith Under COunter Refrigerator 17 MicrowlIw Table "ilh Shelf 18 MicrowlII't
19 Reach·ln Rl'friger.llor Unl1
10 Fry' Sta~ons
I 1 SUlnless SlceI o.'trsheh'eS
.J FnlE 5.4
I I
TJpical Hot-Foods St'Ctio" Floor Plall
under a work lable in the bakeshop, while several hundreds of pounds more remain in a central dry goods area. Similarly, one box of sail can be stored near the hot line for immediate use, while the remainder of the case is stored in a centra l dry goods area. Addilional storage space will be needed for cleaning and paper supplies, dishes and other service ware.
Nel.ler slore cleaning supplies ami other chemicals with foods. 2. Irmhing dishes (IIul olher equipment. These dish- and equipment-washing facilities should have their own sinks. Food-preparation and hand-washing should be separme. 3. Employee lise. Restrooms, locker facilities and an office are also found in most food service facilities. ~inks
The guiding principle behind a good kitchen design is to maximize the flow
ci goods and staff from one area to the next and within each area itself. t.Iaximizing flow creates an efficient work environment and helps reduce preparation and service time. Figure 5.6 shows the several seCtions of a professional kitchen. It includes an area for front-of-the-house staff to Circulate, drop off orders, retrieve finished dishes and return diny dishes. ll1e design accounts for the flow of foods from receiving, to storage, to food preparation areas. to holding and service areas and then to the dining room as well as the flow of dirty dishes from the dining room back into the kitchen. The work sections are arranged to take ad-
99
100
I
_,
C/W1'ER 5
SWnIess Sled Hood
{.J I Cofll'llCdon Ol"en 2 Undcr-Coumtr t'reew Unll J Grkidle Top 4 Oleese Melter S 6 Bumer Top.I().1!I\ Bclo>1'
6_
7 Undf!r-Counlet Rl'frlgt'DlOl" 8 8roi1er Top 9 SUlnIes:5 Sled 'I'ork T:able 'IIith Open Sheh'tS 10 FI}' SWions II ScaJnJess SIttI (}..ershtt.es
12 SI~ Table \lith Open Shch-esllel{)\\' I J Siainless Steel Dual Shelf 111th Top lIe2I Rod 14 Under..counu~r freew 111th Irork Surf2ce 15 Com~'(lr Toaster 16 Rain Marie lIith Under CoulIlet Refriger1lor 17 MitrOll1l\'e Table 'IIith Shelf 18 MicroI\m't
19 Reach-In Rdiigemor Unil
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FIGURE 5.5
TJ1Jicalllof.Foo(/s SectiOIl E/em/iOIl
vanlage of shared equipment. For instance, by placing the bakeshop next 10 the hot-foods section, Ihey can share ovens. TIle garde-mallger and dessert seaions, both of which rely on refrigerated foods , are conveniently located near the walk-in refriger.lIor and freezer area. TIle beverage station is located near the dining room enlrancc so Ihat food servers do not have to walk through food preparation areas to fill beverage orders. The office is next to receiving so that the chef can easily check and receive orders. The cenlral stor, age areas are easil}' accessible to the recei\'ing area as well as to the food produaion areas, while the cleaning-supply storage is near the dishwashing area. In general, the design eliminates the need for staff from one work station or section to cross through another station or section.
TOOL.'i AND EQUIPMENT
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FoodI\'eg«ablc Prtpar:lIiQn
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f'lQ.lE 5.6
Diagram o!Kitchen
Governmental building, heallh, fire and safety axles will didale, to a degree, certain aspects of a professional kitchen's design. But to make the most of these spaces, the well-designed kitchen should reflect a sound understanding of the tasks to be performed and the equipment necessal)' to perform them.
{j}wCLUSION .N-. Hundreds of tools and pieces of equipment can help you prepare, cook, store and present food. EveI)' year, manufadurers offer new or impro\,ed items. Throughout your career, you witl use many of them. Select those that are well constmaed, durable and best suited for the task at han(\. Then use them in a safe and efficient manner. The way in which equipment is arranged and stored in a kitchen is also important. Good kitchen design emphasizes the effiCient flow of gocxls and staff from one work section to anOther as well as within each work section or Slation.
""itt "'''' ""
'7
102
CflAPTER 5
,! l2UESTlONS FOR DISCUSSION
~
l. Whal is NSF International? \X!hat is its significance with regard \0
commercial :
3.
List 5i:\: flL1.lerials used \0 make commercial cookware, and describe the
advantages and disadvantages of each. 4. Describe six pieces of equipment that can be used to slice or chop foods. 5. List three classes of fire extinguishers. For each one, describe its designating symbol, and identify the type or types of fire it should be used to extinguish.
6. Explain the relationship between work sections and work stations and the kitchen brigade system discllssed in Chapter 1, ProfeSSionalism.
HAPTER
6
=== ~ ===
After sllldying this chapter, YOLL will be able 10: r'2'I..
care for knh'es properly
r'2'I..
use knives properly
r'2'I..
cut foods into a variety of
classic shapes
""--../ very professional must become skilled ;1/ the use oj cerlain tools. The professional cbef is no exception, One 0/ the most imporlalll tools the student chef must master is the knife. Good kl1ife skills are critical to a chefs success because the knife is the most commonly used tool in the kitchen. EvelY chef spends countless hours slicing,
dicing, mincing and chopping. Learning to pel/arm these tasks safely and efficiemly is an esseflfial part of yo"r training. Al first, professional knives may jeet large and awkward and the techniques discussed in this cbapter may
120t
seem all that efficient.
Buf as you become familiar with knives and practice your knife skills, llsing knives correctly will become second nature.
Knives are identified in Chapter 5, Tools and Equipment. Here we show how they are used 10 cut vegetables. The techniques presented, however, can be used for most any food that holds its shape when. clll. Knife skills for butchering and fabricating meal, pouilly, fish alld shellfish are discussed in Chapter 12, PIlnciples of Meat Cookery, through Chapter 19, Fish and Shellfish. A note abolll language: Many of the classic cuts are known by their French names: julienne, for example. Although these words are nouns and entered the English language as nouns (jo r example, a julienne of carro!), they are also used as verbs (to julienne a caITOr) and adjectives (julienned cmTots).
USING YOUR KNIFE SAFELY .n-, The first rule of knife safety is to think abollt what YOll are doing . Other basic rules of knife safety are: 1. Use the correct knife for the task at hand. 2. Always cut away from yourself. 3. Always cut on a cutting board. Do nOt cuI on glass, marble or metal. 4. Keep knives sharp; a dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one. 5. When carrying a knife, hold it point down, parallel and dose to your leg as you walk. 6. A falling knife has no handle. Do not altempt to catch a falling knife; step back and allow it to fall. 7. Never leave a knife in a sink of water; anyone reaching into the sink could be injured or [he knife could be denIed by poLS or olher utensils,
l<.?{IFE Slalli
107
CARING FOR YOUR KNIFE .r-.
,
Knife Sbcl1pening .~
sharpening stone called a w hetsto n e is used
[0
put an edge on a dull knife
blade. To use a whetstone, place the heel of the blade against the whetstone Jl a 20-degree angle. Keeping that angle, press down on the bbde while pushing i( aw:ty from YOli in one long arc, as if 10 slice off a thin piece of the Sionc. The entire length of the blade should come in contact with the slone during t':I(h sweep. Repell! the procedure on both sides of the blade until sufficiently sharp. With a triple-beed stone, such as that shown [0 the righI, you progress from the coarsest [0 Ihe finest surface. Any whetstone can be moistened wilh either water or mineral oil, but n01 both. Do not use vegetable oil on a whel~O!lC since i( will soon become rancid and gummy. Asteel does not sh:l rpen :1 knife. Instead, it is used to hone or stmighten tIk: blade immediately after and between sharpenings. To use a steel, place the blade against the steel at a 20-degree angle. 11len draw the blade along the l'fIIire length of the steel. Repeat the technique several times on e:lCh side of the blade. Afinal note on knife care: Do not wash knives in commercial dishwashers. The heat and harsh chemicals can damage the edge and the handle. 'nle blade can also be damaged if it knocks against cookware or utensils. In addition, the knife could injure an unsuspecting worker. Always wash and dry yOllT knives 0\' hand immediately after each use.
GRIPPING YOUR KNIFE ,n-,
When sharpening a knife against a three-sided whetstone. go from tile coarsest to the finest surface.
Honing a knife against a steel strJightens the blade between sharpenings.
There :!re several different ways to grip a knife. Use the grip that is most comfortable for you or the one dictated by the job at hand. Whichever grip you U!oC should be firm but nO! so tight that your hand becomes tired, Gripping styles arc shown below.
•
The most common grip: Hold the handle with three fi ngers while gripping the blade be(ween the thumb and index finger.
A variation on the most common grip: Grip the handle with four fingers and place the thumb on the front of the handle.
TIle underhand grip for a rigid boning knife: Grip the handle in a fist with fou r fingers and thumb. TIlis grip allows you to use the knife tip to cut around joints and separate flesh from bone when boning meat and poultry.
lOB
r'1a..
C/wYTER 6
CONTROLLING YOUR KNIFE .N-. To safely produce even CUIS, you must control (or guide) your knife with one hand and hold the item being CUI with lhe other. Always allow the blade's sharp edge (0 do the cutting. Never force the blade through the item being CUl Use smooth, even strokes. Using a dull knife or excessive force with any knife produces, al beSt, poor results and, at worst, a Significant safety risk. CUlling without using your hand as a guide may also be dangerous. Two safe cutting methods that produce good results are shown below. MedlOdA
1. Keeping your fingenips curled back, grip the item being cut with three fingenips and your thumb. Hold the knife in the other hand. While keeping the knife's tip on the cutting board, lift the heel of the knife.
2. Using the second joint of your index finger as a guide, cut a slice using a smooth, even, downward stroke. Adjust the posilion of the guiding finger after each sUce 10 produce slices of equal size. After a few cuts, slide your fingenips and thumb down the length of the item and continue slicing. For this sliCing technique, the knife's tip acts as the fulcrum.
Method B
1. Grip the item as described above. Using the second
joint of your index finger as a guide, lift the knife's tip and slice by drawing the knife slightly back (award you and down through the item, culting the item to the desired thickness.
2. The motion of the knife should come almost entirely from the wrist, not the elbow. Allow (he weight of the knife (0 do most of the work; very liule downward pressure needs to be applied to the knife. For this sliCing technique, your wrist should act as the fulcrum.
KNIFE SKIill t"'\!l.
CumNG .~
wrm
YOUR KNIFE
,N-,
knife is used to shape and reduce an item'S size. Uni[omlity of size and
shape ensures even cooking and enhances the appearance of the finished product. lIems are shaped by slicing, chopping, dicing, mincing and other special CUlling techniques. ..
Slicing To slice is to cut an item into relatively broad, thin pieces. Slices may be either the fin isherl ('111 or the fi rst step in producing orner cuts. Slicing is typi-
caUy used to create three specialcy
ClltS:
the chiffonade, rondelle and diagonal.
Slicing skills are also used to produce oblique or roll cuts, and lozenges. A chifronade is a preparation of finely sliced or shredded leafy vegetables used as a garnish or a base under cold presentations. As shown here, slicing spinach ell cbifJollade is a relatively simple process.
1. Wash and destem the leaves as necessary. Stack several leaves on top of each Q{her and roll them tightly like a Cigar.
2. Make fine slices across the leaves while holding the leaf roll tightly.
As seen below, ro nde1Jes or rounds are easily made disk-shaped slices of cylindrical vegetables or fru its.
Peel the item (if desired) and place it on a cutting board. Make even slices perpendicular 10 the item being cut. Diagonals are elongatt:u or oval-shafXd slices of cylindrical vegetables or fruits. They are produced with a cut similar to Ihal used 10 cut rondelles except thai Ihe knife is held at an angle to the item being cut.
Peel the item Of desired) and place it on a cUlting board. Position the knife a1 lhe desired angle to the item being cut and slice it evenly.
109
110
~
c/W71:."R 6
Oblique o r ro D-cut items are small pieces with two angle-cut sides. It is a relatively simple cut most often used on carrots and parsnips.
Place the peeled item on a cutting board. Holding the knife at a 45degree angle, make the first cut. Roll the item a h:.lf turn, keeping the knife at the same angle. and make another cut. The result is a wedgeshaped piece with two angled sides. Lozenges are diamond-shaped cuts prepared from firm vegetables such as GlfTots, turnips, nnabagas and potatoes.
1. Slice the item into long slices of the desired thickness. Then cut the slices into strips of the desired width.
2. Cut the strips at an angle (0 produce diamond shapes.
Horizontal Slicing Butterfl y- to slice ooneless mml, /JOIINr)' or [ISh /If/"lrly il1 /x/f/ 11'II8tbU'ise so Ibnl if :pmuis Gpelilike a book.
To horizontal slice is 10 bunerfly or cut a pocket into meats, poultry or fish. It is also a method of cutting lIsed to thinly slice soft vegetables.
1. With your hand opened and your fingers arched upward, hold the item to be cut firmly in the cente r of your palm.
2. Holding the knife parallel to the table, slice a pocket to the desired depth, or cut through (he item completely.
KNIFE SKl1L5
~.
1//
Cbopping To chop is to Wt an item into small pieces where uniformity of size and shape is neither necessary (for example, coarsely chopped onions for a mirepou:that will be removed from the stock before service) nor feaS ible (for example, parsley).
,
Coors. Cboppillg
Coarse chopping does nOl mean carelessly hacking up food. Ralher, the pro-
cedure is identical to that used for slicing but without the emphasis on uniformity. Comely chopped pieces should measure approximately 3/4 inch x 3/4 inch X 3/4 inch (2 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm).
Grip the knife as for slicing. Hold the item being chopped
with your other hand. It may not be necessary to use your finger as a guide because uniformity is nO{ crucial.
Chopping Parsley and Similar Foods Parsley can be cut very coarsely or very finely. As shown below, it is easy to chop jY.lrsley and similar foods properly regardless of the desired fineness.
1. Wash the p:lrsley in cold water;
dmin well. Remove the parsley sprigs from the stems.
2. Grip the knife in one hand. With the other hand spread flat, hold the knife's lip on the cutting board. Keeping the knife's tip on the board, chop the parsley sprigs by rocking the curved blade of the knife up ;md down while moving the knife back and faith over the parsley.
3. Place the chopped parsley in a dean kitchen IOwel or a double layer of cheesecloth. Rinse it under cold water and squeeze out as much \Vdter as possible. 1lle chopped parsley should be dry and fluffy.
112 '""" CIWf'F.I/ 6
Choppil/g Garlic A daily chore in many food service facilities, peeling and chopping garlic is a simple job made easy with the procedure shown here.
1. Break the head of garlic into individual doves with your hands.
Lightly crush the cloves using the flal edge of a chers knife or a
mallet. TIley will break open and the peel can be separated easily from the garlic flesh.
2. With a flat hand, hold the knife's tip on the cutting OOard. Using a
rocking motion, chop the garlic cloves to the desired size. Garlic is usually chopped very finely.
3. Garlic paste can be made by first fine ly chopping the garlic and then IlIrning the knife on an angle
and repeatedly dragging the edge of the knjfe along the cuuing
board, mashing the garlic.
Cutting Sticks and Dicing To dice is to cut an item into cubes. The techniques described here are mOSt often used when uniformity of size and shape is important (for example, julie nned carrots for a salad or brunoised vegetables for a garnish). Before an item can be diced, it must be cut into sticks such as juliennes and batonnets. These sticks are then reduced through dicing into the classic cuts known as brunoise, small dice, medium dice, large dice and paysanne. Al· though most cooks have some notion of what size and shape ~small diced" potatoes or julienne carrots may be, there are specific sizes and shapes for these cuts. They are: Julie nne-a stick-shaped item with dimensions of 1/8 inch x 1/8 inch x 1 to 2 inches (3 nml x 3 mm x 2.5 to 5 aN. When lIsed with potatoes, this cut is sometimes referred to as an allumetle.
Batonnet-a stick-shaped item with dimensions of 1/4 inch x 1/4 inch x 2 to 2 112 inches (6 mm x 6 mm x 5 to 6 em).
KNIFE milS
("'\!\.,
113
, Brunoise-a cube-shaped item ,;ilI dimensions of 1/8 inch x 1/8 inch x 1/8 inch (3 mm x 3 mm x
lmm).
Small dice-a cube-shaped item with dimensions of 1/4 inch x
1/4 inch x 1/4 inch (6 mm x 6 mm x 6 mm).
(
Medium dice-a cube-shaped item with dimensions of 3/8 inch x 3/8 inch x 3/ 8 inch (9 mill x 9 rnm x 9 mm).
Large dice-a cube-shaped item with dimensions of S/8 inch x 5/8 inch x 5/8 inch 05 em x 1.5 cm x 1.5 em).
Paysanne-a flat , square-shaped item with dimensions of 112 inch x 112 inch x \/4 inch 0.2 em x 1.2 em x 6 mm).
114
C1W'T'ER 6
Cutting julienne lind &lIomzel Julienne and bmonnet are matchstick-shaped cuts prepared using the same procedure as cuning sticks for dicing.
1. Peel the item (if desired) and square off the sides. Trim the item so that the slices cut from it will be the proper length. Cut even slices of the desired thickness, JIB inch C3 mm) for julienne or lI4 inch (6 mm) for batonnet.
2. Stack the slices and Clit them evenly into sticks (also referred to as ~ pbnks") that are the same thickness as the slices.
Cutting Brunoise and Small, Aledium and Large Dice Brunoise as well as small. medium and large dice are made by first cutting thl:' item into sticks following the procedure for clltting julienne or batonnet, then making cuts perpendicular to the length of the sticks to produce small cubes. Making a liB-inch (3-mm) cut perpendicular to the length of .. julienne produces a bruncise. r-,'Iaking a 1/4-inch (6-mm) cut perpendicular to the length of a batonnet produces a small dice. A 3l B-inch (9-mm) cut from a 31B-inch (9-mm) stick produces a medium dice, and a 5l B-inch OJ-cm) cut from a 5/8inch ( L5-cm) stick produces a large dice.
Julienne and batonnet sticks and the large. medium, small and bnmoise dices CUt from them.
KNfFESKlUS
~.
115
Cllllillg Paysall11e Parsanne is a classic vegetable cut for garnishing soups and other dishes. It resembles a 1/2-inch dice that has been CUI in half. [I is produced by following the procedures for dicing, but in the fina l step the 1/2-inch x 1/2-inch (]2-cm x 1.2-cm) Slicks are cui into slices 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick.
CUlling paysanne from a 1/2-inch x 1/2-inch (6-mm x 6-mm) Slick. Dicillg ({II Onion Onions are easily peeled and diced 10 any size desired using the procedure shown here.
• 1. Using a paring knife, remove Ihe
stem end. Trim Ihe rOOI end but leave it nearly iniaC! (Ihis helps prevent the onion from falling apart while dicing). Peel away the outer skin; be careful not to femove and waste 100 much onion.
4. M:tke a single horizontal cut on a small onion or two horizontal CULS on a large onion through tile width of the onion, again without clIlling through the root end.
2. Cut the onion in half through the stem and root. Place the cut side down on the cutting board.
5. Turn the onion and cut slices perpendicular to the Olher slices to produce diced onion.
j.
Cut par.lllel slices of the desired thickness venically through the onion from the root {award {he stem end without CUlling completely through the root end.
116 ~
CJlAPf'ER6
Mincing To mince is to cut an item into very small pieces. The terms finely chopped and minced are often used interchangeably and are most often used when reo ferring to garlic, shallots, herbs and other foods that do not have to be uniform in shape.
Mincing Shallots The procedure for mincing shallots is shown here.
1. Peel and dice the shallots,
following the procedure for peeling and dicing an onion.
2. With a flat hand, hold the knife's tip on the cutting board. Using a rocking motion, mince the shallots with the heel of the knife.
Tourner Toumer ("to (urn" in French) is a cutting technique that results in a footballshaped finished product with seven equal sides and blunt ends. The size of the finished product may vary, the most common being 2 inches (5 cm) long. This is a more complicated procedure lhan other cuts and takes considerable practice to produce good results.
1. CUI the item being "turned" into pieces 2 inches (5 cm) x 3/ 4 to 1 inch (2-2.5 em). Each piece should have flat ends. (Potatoes, turnips and beets m3y be cut into as many as six or eight pieces; carrots can simply be cut into 2-inch lengths.) Peeling is optional because in most cases the item's entire surface area is trimmed away.
2. Holding the item between the thumb and forefinger, use a tourne knife or a paring knife to cut seven curved sides on the item, creating a flat-ended, footballshaped product.
KNIFE SJ<JUS
~
117
Using a Mandoline The mandoline is a non mechanical cuning tool. II does jobs that can be done with a chefs knife, such as very thinly sliced apples or large quami!ies of julienned 1-eg...'1ables, quickly, easily, and very accurately. It can also produce cuts such as aridged slice or gaufrctte that cannot be done with a conventional chet's knife. W'hen using the mandoline, always use the guard or a steel-mesh glove to proIect
2. Slide the guard into place.
4. To cut gaufrene, select the ridged blade and set it to the desired thickness. Make the first slice, (urn the item 60° to 90° and make a
second slice. Turn the item back to the original position and make anQ{her slice, and so on.
tfjONCLUSION
.N-,
Although many slicing and dicing machines are available, none can ever COlllpk>tcly replace a skilled chef with a sharp knife. As a student chef, becoming efficient with your knives should be a high priority. Possessing good knife skills allows you to produce more attractive products in a safe and effident manner. rou will use the classic CULS and techniques outlined in this chapter throughout rour career. You should memorize the procedures and practice them often. And remember, a dull or carelessly handled knife is dangerous.
,!l2UES770NS FOR DISCUSSION
.N-,
l. Explain the step-by-step procedures for sharpening a knife uSing a three-
4.
6. 7.
3. To slice, slide the item against the blade with a single, smooth stroke.
desired shape and thickness.
).
(f
your hand.
J. To use a mandoline, position the legs and set the blade to the
3.
Gaufrette---tl tbill !n/lice or u'affie./l'Xlllred slice
of /'f'gffable cui 01/ mamie/ine.
sided whetstone. What is the purpose of steel? Why is it necessary to cut vegetables into uniform shapes and sizes? Describe the following cutting procedures: slicing, chopping and dicing. Identify the dimensions of the following CULS: julienne, batonnet, brunoise, snull dice, medium dice, large dice and paysanne. Describe the procedure for making (oumeed vegetables. Describe three preparations for which a mandoline would be useful.
HAPTER
•
7
ITCHEN '---'" TAPLES
I
=== ~ ===
After studying Ihis chapter, you will be able to: ~
~
recognize and use a variel), of herbs, spices, nuts, oils, vine-
gars :Ind condiments prep:l re lind serve quality coffees ,md leas
ertain foods tire IIsed il1 almost a/J statiollS of the kitchel1 with such reglllarity that they bave become known as staples. 111cluded are mtlny of the processed, {Jllckaged items we oftell take for granted: salt, pepper, flam; sligar, oil atul flavori1lgs. nJere is, holl" eve!; llO sillgle list of staples. Each food service operation will have its own list depeuding on tbe me1lU and the cooking methods used. This chapter ident!fies (lI1d disClisses selected herhs atld spices, sail, nuts, oils, vinegars and condiments as well as two popular beverages, coffee al1d tea. \fle provide identi/yillg cbaracteristicsfor some of the more common staples and se/ fOltb stalldards of quality and usage. Otber staples, such as flo ur alld sugtll; are covered iu Chapler 29, PrinCIples of the Bakeshop.
HERBS AND SPICES .n-, Seasoning---
Flavorlng-all iJetll Ibnl (uills a 1I/'11! ItlsJe to (I food allll oilers iJ.r 11lI/limi jllJlm;jlnl'Crillgr illdUI/e berQ$, spices, Ill/egan mill aJlulimf1lfs. 1be Ie,ms seasooin~ alld nmorin~ are often usaf ill-
lerrJxlllgeribiy. Aromatic---all lIem a1kkd to I'1Ilxmce the 1/(11· urnl aromas of a food; aromatics iI/dude I/Iosl j/tWOrillgs, such lIS herbs (II/(/ sptces, as 1I'l'i1 (IS
some 1'f'8i1ilbles. Co ndimc nt-lrfldilioll(l/(1'.
(JIIY
Herbs and spices are the kitchen staples used as flavorings . Herbs refer [0 the large group of aromatic plants whose leaves, stems or flowers are used to add flavors to OI:her foods. !\lOSt herbs are available fresh or dried. Becaust'" drying alters their flavors and arom:IS, fresh herbs are generall}' preferred and should be used if possible. Spices are strongly flavored or aromatic (X)nions of planLS used as flavorings, condime nts or aromatics. Spices are the bark, rOOlS, seeds, buds or berries of plal1LS, most of which grow naturally only in trOpical climates. Spices are almost always used in their dried form , rarely fresh , and can usually be purchased whole or ground. Some plants---dil1, for example--can be lIsed :IS both an herb (its leaves) and a spice (i[S seeds).
ilem (/(k/etl to
a disb j()t' jkmor, inell/tlillg herbs, spieRs (/l/(l l~lIe gars; !lOW {/Iso refers 10 ctJ()lleti or prepmw/ jkl. l'firiflgs such (IS /JrffIlIIY.'li IIIIIS/lirtis, relishes, 00/lIed Simas alld picHl'S.
Herbs
Basil (Fr. basilique) is considered one of the great culinary herbs_ It is available in a variety of "flavors"--cinnamon, garlic, lemon, even chocolate--but [he mOSt common is SpiCC'--{IIIY ofa klrgt! grollP of aTOlnolic plallts &lSil uilose barR, TOOls. !l/.'ffis, bl/lis or berries tire II$«I sweet b.1sil. Sweet basil has light green, (IS 0 flavoring; IlSIItllly liSed ill dried jorm. eiJher lender ica\'cs and small white flowers_ Irs flavor is Slrong, warm and slightly u-bok or groll/Ill peppery, with a hint of cloves. Basil is used in Mediterranean cu isines and has a special affinity for garlic and tomatoes. When purchasing fresh basil, look for bright green leaves; avoid flower buds and wilted or rustcolored leaves. Dried sweet basil is readily available but has a decidedly weaker flavor. Opal basil is named for its vivid purple color. It has a tougher, crinkled leaf and a medium-strong flavor. Opal basil may be substituted for sweet basil in cooking, and its appearance makes it a distinctive garnish. Optll Basil Herb----tmy 0/11 kl'1}t group of(lfQmll/ic pial/Is u'lme ierll'fS, siems or jlOtl't!1'S are IlSl!rl (IS (I jftlvoring; US/!(I either (Irittl or fresh.
•
KffCIIHNJTAPLES
Bay(Fr.lollrier), also known SWef!t laurel, is a snlllll tree from Asia that produces tough, gIossr leaves with a sweet b:tl· \;Imi<: aroma and peppery flavor. Ba)' s),Oloolized wisdom lind glory Ikl)' Lerlt'CS 111 ancient Rome; the leaves were used 10 form crowns or ~ laurel s~ worn by emperors :md lictorious athletes. In cooking, dried bay leaves are often prefem.:d over the more bitter fresh leaves. Essential in French cuisine, bay leaves are part of the traditional bouquet gami and court bouillon. Whole dried le~lVes are usually added to a dish at the st:trt of cooking, thc..'n removed when sufficient flavor has been extraaed.
~
~
Chervil
Chenoil (Fr. celjellif), also known as sweet cicely, is native :0 Russia md the Middle East. Its lacy, fernlike leaves lire similar to pa rsley and can
be used as a garnish. Chervit"s flavor is delicate, similar to parsley but with the distinctive aroma of anise. It should not be heated for long periods. Chervil is commonly used in French cuisine and is one of the tra· ditional fllles berbes. Chivcs (Fr. cibolilefle) are perhaps the most delicate and sophisticated members of the onion famlly. Their hollow, thin grass·green stems grow in clumps and produce round, pale purple flowers. whidl are used as a garnish. Chives may be purchased dried, quick·frozen or fresh. 111ey have a mild onion flavor and bright grt'Cn color. Chives romplemem eggs, poultry, potatoes, fish and shellfish. TIley shou ld not be cooked for long periods or at high temperatures. Chives make an excellent garnish when snipped with scissors or carefully chopped Jnd sprinkled over fi nished soups or sauces. Garlic chives. also known as Chinese chives, actually belong {a mlXhcr plant species. TIley have flat , solid (not hollow) stems and a mild garlic flavor. TIley may be used in place of regular chives if their garlic !b\'or is desired.
Cbh'Cs
Garlic Chit'Cs
Cilantro is the green leafy portion of the plant that yields seeds known as roriander. The flavors of the two portions of this plant arc verf differen! :tnd rannOi be substituted for each other. Cilantro, also known as Chinese parsley, is sharp ,md tangy with a strong ~rorrtJ and an almost citrus Ilavor. It is widely used in Asian. Mexican and South American cuisines, especially in salads and sa uces. II should not be su)). jected 10 heat , and cilantro's Ilavor is completely destroyed by drying. Do not use yellow or discolored leaves or the tough stems.
Dill (Fr. (llIetb), a member of the parsley famil y, has tin)', aromatic, yetlow fl owers and feathery, delicate hlue·green leaves. The leaves t
Cilalltro
Dill
121
J22
~,
C/W'7F.R 7
so add them only after the dish is removed from the heal. Dill seeds are available whole or ground and are used in fish dishes, pickles and breads. Epazote, also known as wormseed or stinkweed, grows wild throughOOI the Americas. II has a slrong aroma similar to kerosene and a wild fla\'or. Fresh epazote is used in s..11ads and as a flavoring in Mexican and Southwestern cuisines. It is often cooked with beans to reduce their gaseousness. Dried epa. zote is brewed to make a bever.tge.
EjJaZOle
Fine herbs (Fr. Jines berbes) are a combination of parsley, tarragon. chenit and chives widely used in French cuisine. TIle miXlUre is available dried. ex you can create your own from fresh ingrediems. Lavender is an evergreen with thin leaves lind tall stemsi:learing spikes of tiny purple flowers. Although lavender is known primarily for its aroma, which is widely used in perfumes, soaps and cosmetiCS, the fl owers are also used as a flavoring, particularly in Middle Eastern and Proven~1I1 cuisines. TIlese flowers hllve a sweet, lcmony flavor and can be crystallized and used as a garnish. L:wender is also used in jams and preserves and to flavor teas and lisanes. Lemoll Grass
lm:e"der
Lemon grass. also known as citronella gr.tss, is a tropicAl gr.tss with the Slrong aroma and taste of lemon. 1\ is similar to scallions in appear.tnce but with a woody texfure. Only the lower base and white leaf stalks are used. "'~o~,:a..;~ Available fresh or quick-frozen, lemon gr.tss is widely used in Indonesian and Southeast Asian cuisines. Marjoram (Fr. II/(Irjoitlille), also known liS sweet ma~or.tm , is a flowering herb nalive to the Mediterranean and used since ancient times. Its flavor is similar to thyme but sweeter; it also has a stronger aroma. t-.b~or.tm is now used in many European cuisines. Although it is available fresh , marjor.tm is one of the few herbs whose flavor increases when dried. Wild ma~or.tm is more commonly known as oregano. Mmjomm
Oregallo
Mint (Fr. mel/the), a large family of herbs, includes many species and flavors (even chocolate). Spearmint is the most common garden and commercial variety. 1\ has soft, bright green leaves and a tal1 aroma and flllVor. Mint does not blend well with other herbs, so its use is confi ned to specific dishes, usually fruits or fatly meats such as lamb. Mint has an affinity for chocolate. It can also be brewed into a bever.tge or used as a garnish. Pe ppermint has thin, Stiff, Spearmillt pointed leaves and a sharper menthol flavor and aroma. Fresh peppermint is used less often in cooking or as a garnish Ihan speannint, but peppermint oil is a common fl avoring in sweets Peppermillt and candies. Oregano (Fr. origem), also known as wild ma~or.tm, is a pungent, peppel)' herb used in Mediterr.tne:lO cuisines, particularly Greek and Italian, as well as in Ivlexican cuisine. It is a d,tsSic complement 10 tomatoes. Oregano's thin, woody stalks bear clumps of tiny, dark green leaves, which are available dried and crushed.
KfTCIIEJo/ STAPLES
~
123
Parslcy (Fr. pel~'il) is probably the best known 2nd most widely used herb in the world. It rJOI''S in almost all climates and is available 1'1 many \'arieties, all of which are rich in 11Jmins and minerals. The most ronunon type in the United Slates JOO :\OJthem Europe is curly parsley. It has small curly leaves and 1 bright green color. Its flavor is tangy and dean. Other cui.sines use a variety ~t1imes known as itali:," parsley, ~hich has fbt leaves, a darker color and coarser flavor. Curly parsley is a ubiqui- ... tOUS prnish: both types can be used in P(/rsley lir1ually an~' food except sweets. Parsley ~llb ha\'c a stronger navor than the lelLves and are part of the stancl:ird bouquet gami. Chopped p:Lrsley forms the basis of any fine herb blend.
ROSfIIllIfJ'
Rosemary (Fr. rOll/arill) is an evergreen bush that grows wild in warm, dry climates worldwide. It has stiff, needlelike leaves; some varieties bear pale blue nowers. It is highly aromatic, with a slight odor of camphor or pine. Rosemary is best used fresh. 'X'hen dried, it loses navor, and its lea\'es become \'ery hard and unpleasant to chew. Whole rosemary stems may be added to a dish such as a stew and then removed when enough navor has been imparted. TIley may also be added to a bouquet gami. Rosemary has a great affinity for roasted and grilled mealS, C5pecially lamb.
""/i"" PtII'sley
Sage (Fr. stlllge) was used as a medicine for centuries before it entered the kitchen as a culinary herb. Culinary sage has narrow, fuzzy , gray-green leaves and blue flowers. Its n:lVor is strong and balsamic, with notes of campbor. Sage is u~d in poultry dishes, with fatty meats or brewed as a beverage. Sage's ;(tOng 03vor does not blend well with other herbs. It dries well and is :JI'Jihble in IVhole or chopped le:lVcs or rubbed (coarsely ground). Savory (Fr. smiefle) , :1150 known :IS summer savory, has been used ,ioce ancient times, [IS leaves are small md narrow, and it has a ~ha!p. biller navar, vaguely like thyme. It dries well and is used in bean dbhes. sausages and herb mixtures. Tarragon (Fr. eslragoll), :lnather of the great culinary herbs, is natM 10 Siberia. It is a bushy plant with long. narrow, dark green leaves and lin)" gta)' nowers. Tarragon goes well with fish and tomatoes and is essential in nun)' French dishes such as bCamaise sauce and fine herb blends. Its fla1"01" is strong and diffuses quickly through foods. It is available dried, blll drying m:ly cause haylike flavors 10 de\'elop. Thyme (Fr. Ibym) has been popular since 3500 B.C., when Egrpli3ns used it :IS a medicine and for embalming. TIlyme is a 'm:l1l. bushy pl:lnt with woody stems, tiny green-gray leaves and purple flowers. lis flavor is Strong but refined, with notes of >age. Thyme dries well and complements vinually all types of meat, poUltry. fish, shellfish and veget:lbles. It is often included in a bouquet gami or added to stocks.
SiIVOry'
Ta""goll
Tb)'llle
124
~
ClWT'ER 7
Spices
• Allspice
Allspice, also known as Jamaicdn pepper, is the dried berry of a trcc tlul flourishes in Jamaica, and one of the few spices still grown exclusively in the New World. Allspice is available whole; in berries that look like large, rough, brown peppercorns; or ground. Ground allspice is nOt a mixture of spices al· though it does taste like a blend of cinnamon, cloves and nUllneg. Allspice is now used throughout Ihe world, in everything from cakes to curries, and is often included in peppercorn blends. Anise (Fr. til/is) is native to the eastern MediterT'dnean, where it WlS widely used by andent civiliz:ttions. Today, it is grown cOllllllcrd:tlly in WMffi climates tJ].roughout India, Nonh Africa and solLthern Europe. TIle liny, gm)" green egg-shaped seeds have a distinctively strong, sweet flavor, similar 10 licorice and fennel. When anise seeds turn brown, they are st:Jle and should be discarded. Anise is used in pastries as well as fish, shellfish and vegetable dishes, and is commonly used in alcoholic bever-dges (for example, Pernod and ouzo). Tile green leaves of the anise plant :Jre occ3sion:llly used fresh as an herb or in salads. Star anise , also known as Chinese anise, is the dried, slar·sh:lped fmit of a Chinese magnolia tree. Although botanically unrelated, ils flavor is sirni13r to anise seeds but more bitter and pungent. It is an essential flavor in many Chi· nese dishes and one of the components of five-spice powder.
S/arAnise
Capers (Fr. capres) come from a small bush that grows wild throughout the t.'ledilerranean basin. Its unopened flower buds have been pickled and used as a condiment for thousands of years. Fresh capers are not used as the sh,)rp, salty-sour flavor develops only after curing in strongly S
= = = = = = = = = = ,..,.""., = = = = = = = = = = A PINOI OF HISTORY
Spices have been used for many purposes for century A.D., much of !he overland route thousands of years. Egl'ptian papyri dating back through southem Europe became prey to ban· to 2800 8.C. Identify several spices native to !he dits: and after Constantinople fell in 1453, the Middle and Far East that .,,:ere used by the ruling spice routes through the Middle East were and prieslly dasse:; for OItSJjltUUt, oosmetic, comrolJed by the Ottoman lUrks. Spice coos medicinal, ritualistic and culinary purposes. soared, and eoonoolies based upon the spice By A.D. 300, the Romans were regularly trade, such as that of \~nice, were at risk. importing spices for use as perfumes, medi· By then highly lfIiced food had become comcines, preserva\ivlS and. ingredients from China moo, espetially in ·...'i.!althier households. So, in and India via long. difficult carm'an jOl.lrrle)"S part to maintain their culinary noml, the Euroowr sea and land. Spices \\'i.!re extremely ex- peans set ootlO bre"& the Ottoman Thrk monoppensive and unavailable to all but the "'e!hhi- oly. These efforts led to Columbus's discol'ery of tile /lmencas ana vasco (Ie \.tama·s dlSCO\'i.!ry 01 a After Rome rell in the second half of the 5th sea route 10 India. Although the New \t'orld 00fj-
tained none of the spices for which Columbus was searching, it provided many previously un· known foods and na\'orin~ that changed European tables fOTel"er, including chiles, ranUla. tomatoes, potatOES and chocolate. Foml:lIion of the Dutch East India Company in 1602 marked the start of the Dutch coloni:1I empire and made spices widely available to the ping European middle cI~. The transplantation and cultivation of spice plants e'o-entually weakened the once-pO'-.l"erful trading empires until, by the 19th century, 110 European country could monopolize trade. Prices fell dramatically.
KJrCH6N S/itPUS
(""\"!\.
J25
Caraway is perhaps the world's oldest spice. ItS use has been traced to the Age, and seeds have been found in ancient Egyptian tombs. The carJ\\"jY pbnt grows wild in Europe :lnd temperate regions of Asia. It produces a 'lillI!, crescent-shaped brown seed with the peppery flavor of rye. Seeds may be purchased whole or ground. (The leaves have a mild, bland flavor and are ran~l used in cooking.) Caraway is a very European flavor. used extensively in Gennan and Auslfian dishes, p.1rticuIarly breads, meats :md cabbage. It is 100 used in alcoholic beverages and cheeses. ~0I\t
Cardamom is one of the most expensive spices, second only to saffron in Its seeds are encased in 1/ 4-inch- C6-rnillimeter-) long light green or oown pods. Card:1I1l01ll i:. highly aromatic. Its flavor, lemony with notes of Clmphor, is quite strong and is used in bot h sweet and savory dishes. Cardamom is widely used in Indian and Middle Eastern cuisines, where it is :Ilso used to flavor coffee. Scandina\'ians use card:mlom to flavor breads and pasIrie:i. Ground cardamom loses its flavor rapidly and is e:lsily :lduitel""Jted, so it is best to purchase whole seeds and grind your own as ne<..oded. rosI..
Chiles, including paprika , chile peppers, bell peppers and cayenne, are members of the capsiCllIll pl:int fllmily. Although cultivated for thousands of years in the West Indies and Americas, capsicum peppers were unknown in the Old \Vorld prior to Spanish explorations during the 15th century. Capsicum peppers come in all shapes and sizes, with a wide range of flavors , from sweet to extrcmely hal. Some capsicums are used as a vegetable, while others are dried. ground and used as a spice. Fresh chiles and bell peppers are discussed in Chapter 22, Vegetables . Capsicums are botanic llly unrelated to pipe,. lIignml, the black peppercorns discussed latcr. Cayenne, sometimes simply labek'
Cardamom St'eds
FOT our purposes, chile refers 10 lhe p/tIllf, chili
refm 10 lhe sletdiie dish roll/(li/lin8 chiles (lnd chilli rifm 10 lhe rol/llllerciol5{1ia fXJII~/er.
CayelllJe Pepper
p(lprika
Chilli Polt.'(/er
Cmshet/ Cbiles
•
Ground Cinl/amon
{l/ul CimulmOIl Slicks
126
CIIAP[,8R 7
lamb and spicy dishes. labeling laws do not require that packages distinguish between cassia and cinnamon. so most of what is sold as cinnamon in the United States is actuall}' cassia. blended for consistent flavor and aroma. Cloves (Fr. girofles) are the unopened buds of evergreen trees that flouri5h in muggy tropical regions. \"!hen dried, whole cloves ha'·e hard, sharp prongs that can be used to push them into other foods, such as onions or fruit. in order to provide flavor. Cloves are extremely pungent. with a sweet, astringent aroma. A small amount provides a great deal of flavor. Cloves are used in desseil5 and meat dishes, preserves :lnd liquors. They may be purchased whole or ground .
.
Coriander seeds come from the Cilantro plant. They are round and beig~. with a distinctive sweet, spicy flavor and strong aroma. Unlike other pl:mlS in which the seeds and the leaves carry the same flavor and aroma, coriander and cilamro are distinct. Coriander seeds are available whole or ground and are frequemly used in Indian cuisine and pickling mixtures.
Coritlnder SCCf/S
Cllm i ll
Fellllel
•
Cumin is the seed of a small delicate plant of the parsley family that grows in North Africa and the Middle East. The small seeds are available whole or ground and look (but do not taste) like caraway seeds. Cumin has a strong eanhy flavor and tends to dominate any dish in which it is included. It is used in Indian, !l.Iiddle Eastern and Mexican cuisines, in 5.1usages and a few cheeses. Fennel (Fr.lel/oui/) is a perenni:tl plam with feathery leaves and tiny flowers long cultivated in India and China as a medicine and cure for witchcraft. Its seeds are greenish brown with prominent ridges and sholt, hairlike fibers. Their taste and aroma :Ire similar to anise though not as sweet. Whole seeds are widely used in Italian stews and sausages; central European cuisines use fennel with fish, pork, pickles and vegetables. Ground seeds can also be USt'd in breads, ca kes and cookies. nle same plant produces a bulbous stalk used as a vegetable . Fenugreek (Fr. jellllgrec), grown in Mediterr:mean countries since anciem times. is a sma!!, beanlike plant with a tiny flower. The seeds, available whole or ground, are pebble shaped and transfer their pa le orange color to the foods with which they are cooked. Their flavor is bittersweet, like burnt sugar with a bitter aftertaste. Fenugreek is II staple in Indian cu isines, especially curries and chUlneys.
Gillger Root
jllniPer Berries
Ginger (Fr. gil/gell/bra) is a well-known spice obtained from the root of a tail, flowering tropical plant. Fresh ginger root is known as a "hand" because it looks vaguely like a group of knobby fingers . It has grayish-tan skin and a pale yellow, fibrous imerior. Fresh ginger shou ld be plump and fi rm with smooth skin. It should keep for about a month under refrigeration. Its f1a,'or is fic!)' but sweet, wilh nOtes of lemon and rosemary. Fresh ginger is widely available and is Ust'
KlTCIIEN STAPLES
Mustard seeds (Fr. lIIollt(mle), available in black, brown and yellow, come from three different plants in the cabb.1ge family. Mustard seeds are small. hard
Grolllul Mustard
Nutmeg (Fr. IIIl1sCtlde) and mace come from the yellow plumlike fnlit of a large tropical evergr(.'Cn. These fnlits are dried and opened to reveal the seed known as nutmeg. TIle seed is surrounded by a bright red lacy coating or aril; !he aril is the spice mace. Whole nutmegs are o\"al and look rather like a piece d smOOth wood. ·nle fl:lvor and aroma of nutmeg are strong and sweet, 3nd:t small quantity provides a great deal of flavor. Nutmeg should be grJted directly into :t dish as ne(.'{led; once grated, flavor loss is rapid. \Ulmeg is uscd in many European cuisines, mainly in pastries and s\\~'i'ts, but is also imponant in meat and savory dishes. .'Iace is an expensive spice, with a flavor similar to nutmeg but more refined. It is almost always pmch:lsed ground and retains its flavor longl"r than other ground spices. Mace is used primarily in pastry items.
Poppy seeds (Fr. /X11JOI) are the ripened seeds of the opium poppy, which nourishes in the Middle E:lst and India . (When ripe, the seeds do not conta in :tn)' of the medicinal alkaloids found elsewhere in the plant.) The tiny bluegray seeds are round and hard with a sweet, nutty flavor. Poppy seeds are used in pastries and breads.
127
• Mllstard Seeds
"(lhcres with a biller flavor. l1le seeds have no aroma, but their fl:lvor is sharp JOO fic!)' hot Yellow seeds ha\·e the mildest and bbck seeds the strongest fl;lI'a'. All arc sold whole and can be crushed for cooking. Mustard seeds are a 'Wldard component of pickling spices and are proc-essed and blended for prePJred mustards, which we discuss later. Ground or dry mustard is :1 bright )'clla.\- powder made from a blend of ground seeds. wheat flour and turmeric.
Peppercorns (Fr. poiIJre) are the berries of a vine plant (piper IIigmm) native touopical Asia. Peppercorns should not be confused with Ihe chile (capsicum) Jlt-'PPfTS discussed earlier. Peppercorns vary in size, color, pungency and flavor. .\bnr of these differences are the result of variations in climate and growing condim. Good-quality pepper is expensive and should be purchased whole and ground fresh in a peppermill as needed. \'.:'hole peppercorns will last indefinitely ifkept dry. TIley should be stored well-covered in a cool, dark place. Black and white peppercorns are produced from the s..1me plant, but are picked and processed differently. For black peppercorns. the berries are picked when green and simply dried whole in the sun. Black pepper has a \,,-arm. pungent flavor and arorml. Tellicherry peppercorns from the southwest C03St of India are genemlly considered the finest black peppercorns in the world and are priced accordingly. For white peppercorns, the berries are allowed to ripen until they turn red. The ripened berries are allowed to ferment , then the ollter layer of skin is washed off. Nowadays, white pepper Ill:!y be produced by mechanically remOl"ing the OUier skin from black peppercorns. This is not tme white pepper, and the resulting product should be labeled "deconicated. ~ \Vhite pepper has \es:; aroma than black pepper but is useful in white sauces or where the apJll'arance of hlack sJXXkles is undesirable. Green peppercorns are unripened berries that are either freeze-dried or pickkd in brine or \·inegar. Pickled green peppercorns are soft, with a fresh, sour flaI"a" similar to capers. The)' are excellent in spiced butters and sauces or with fish. Pink peppercorns are actually the berries of a SoUlh American tree, not a Iiiit' pepper plant. Pink peppercorns are available dried or pickled in vinegar. !\Jthough attl.ldil'e, their flavor is bitter and pinelike, with less spiciness than true pepper. Pink peppercorns are no longer available in some areas because eX reponed [oxic side effects.
~
W1JQ/e Nutmegs with Mace (Iefl) lind Ground Nutmeg (right)
• ,
,
,
.-
,
'
,
,
Greell /'eppercoNls
Pink l'eppercoNls •
Poppy Seeds
128
• ClIAPTF.R 7
Saffroll
Sesnme Seeds
Saffron (Fr. safmll) comes from the dried stigmas of the saffron crocu.>. E:lCh flower bears only three threadlike stigmas, and e:lch must be picked b)' hand. It takes about 250,000 f10wc rs to produce one pound of s:lffron, making it the most expensive spicc in the world. Beware of bargains; there is no such thing as cheap saffron. Luckily, a liny pinch is enough to color and flal'or 3 large quantity of food. Good saffron should be a brilliant or.mge color, nOl. rei· low, with a strong aroma and a biller, honcylike laste. S:lffron produces a rel· low dye that diffuses through any warm liquid. Valencia or Spanish saffron i.s considered Ihe finest. [t is commonly used with fish and shellfish (a neceSSity for bouillabaisse) and rice dishes such as paella and risotto. When using saf· fron threads, first crush them gently, then soak them in some hOi liquid from the recipe. Powdered 5.1ffron is less expensive but more easily adulterated. It may beadded directly to the OIher ingredients when cooking. Sesame seeds, :\Iso known as benne seeds, are native \0 India. TIley are small. flat ov,lls, with a creamy white color. Their taste is mmy and eanh)" with a pronounced aroma when roasted or ground into a paste (known as tahini). Sesame seeds are the source of ses.1me oil, which has a mild, nutty f1a· vor and does nO{ go rancid easily. Sesame seeds are roasled and used in or as a garnish for breads and meal dishes. They are popular in Indian and Asian cuisines, with a bl:tck variety of seeds most popular as a Japanese condiment. Turmeric, also known as Indian S
Tllmeric .
Spice Blends Many countries and cuisines have created recognizable combinations of spice f1:lvors that arc found in a varielY of dishes. Although many of these blend!. are available ready-prepared for convenience, most can be mixed by the chef as needed. A few of the more common spice blends are described here. Chinese five·spice powder is :1 combination of equal pans finely ground Szechuan pepper, star anise, cloves, cinnamon and fennel seeds. This blcnd b widely used in Chinese and some Victnamese foods and is excellent with pork and in pates. Curry powder is a European invention that probably look its name from the Tamil word karl, meaning a sauce. Created by 19th-century Britons returning from colonial India, it was mc:mt to be the complete spicing for a ~cLlrryn dish. Thcre arc as many different formulas for cuny powder as there are manufa cillrers, some mild and sweet (Bombay or Chinese style), others hOt and pungem (Madras style). Typical ingredients in curry powder are black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, ginger, mace and turmeric.
, Pille-Spice Powder
•
•
Pickling Spice
Pickling spice, as with other blends, varies by manufacturer. Most pickling spice blends are based on black peppercorns and red chiles, with some or all of the following addcd: allspice, cloves, ginger, must:lrd seeds, coriander seeds, bay leaves and dill. These blends are useful in making cucumber or vegetable pickles as well as in stews and soups. Quatre-epices, literally ~four spices" in French, is a peppery mixture of black peppercorns with lesser amollnts of nutmeg, cloves and dried ginger. Sometimes cinnamon or allspice is included. Quatre..epices is lIsed in charcUlcrie and long-simmered stews.
KfI'CIfEN STAPLEr ~
Using Herbs and Spices Hl'l'bs and spices are a simple, inexpensive way to bring individuality and V30l1) (0 foods. TIleir proper use leads 10 better-flavored and distinctively diffl'rCn( dishes. 111ey ;ldd neither f:lt nor sodium and virtually no calories to food~: Illost contain only 3 to "1 0 calories per te:lspoon. Table 7. 1 lists just a ft'w uses for some of the more common herbs and spices.
TABLE 7. 1 ,n, USFS FOR SoME COMMON HERBS AND SPICES ~\'Oring
Fonn
.. .suggcs1t!d Uses
AUspice
Whole or ground \'('hole or ground
Fruits, relishes, braised mealS Asian cuisines, pastries, breads, cheeses Tomatoes, salads, eggs, fish, chicken, iamb, cheeses Rye bre:ld, cabbage, reJns, pork, bt.>ef, veal Chicken, fish, eggs, salads, soups, vegetables Eggs, fish, chicken, soups, po!...1toes, cheeses Salsa, salads, Mexican cuisine, fish, shellfish, chicken M:lrinades, baked goods, braised .. meats, pickles, fruits, beverages, stocks Chili, sausages, stews, egg.s Leaves or seeds in soups, salad~, fish, shellfish, vegetables, breads; .seeds in pickles, potatoes, vegetables Sausages, stews, sauces, pickling, lamb, eggs Asian, Caribbean and Indian cuisines, pastries, curries. stews, mc:tts Sausages, pates, meats, poultry, stews, green vegewbles, tomatoes. game Curries. rdishes, rice, eggs, beverages Lamb, veal, beef, poultry, 'galll!;:, marin:ades, stews ~ , Rice, breads, potatoes, soups, Slews, chicken, fish, shellfish Pouhry, chafOlterie, pork, stuffings, , paSl3, beans, tomatoes Chicken, fish, eggs, salad dressings, SJuces, tomatoes Fish. chicken, mealS, stews, charculerie, soups, tomatoes ' Curries, relishes, rice, eggs, breads
"'"' ""
Fresh or dried Whole or ground Fresh ~r dried Fresh or dried Fresh leaves
Oows
\'(!hole or ground
Cumin Dill
Wh~le or ground Fresh or dried leaves; whole seeds
,"'hole seeds Gingrf
Fresh root or powder
Fresh or dried
\ uuneg
Ground I're1i,h or dned
Threads or ground Fresh or dril-d T3lTJgon
Fl}!Sh or dried
Thyme
Fresh or dried
T"""",
Ground
129
130
.
c/W'TER 7
~
FL-4VOH CONCEPTS In FJhllic Cuisille: tbe F!m'Or Principle
Cookbook, Elis.'lbeth ROlin write;: "E\1!ry culture tends to combine a small number of f1a\uring Ingredients so frequen~y and so consistently that they become definilil1! of that particular cuisine" (p. xiv). She calls these defining f1alurs "flavor principle;" and note; that ~Ie)' are "designed to abstract what is absolutely fundamental about a cuisine and, ~lUS, to se"'e as a guide in oooking and developing new recipes" (p. )..·vii). She identifie; the following fhwor principles: Cel/lml Asin: Cinn:llllon, frui t and nlllS China: generally-soy sauce, rice wine and
ginger root Northern China (MandarinlPeking)miso and/orgarlic and/or sesame Western China (Szechuan)-sweel, sour and hot Southern Chin.'l (C.'Illton)-black beans, garlic Eosfem Europe (jeuisb): onion andchicken
rat
EnsIerll find Nor/hem Europe: sour cream
and dill or paprika or allspice or carraway France: genemll),-olive oil, garlic and basil orwine and heroorbutter and /orsourcre:un and/or chee;e plus wine and/or stock PI'O\'fllce-olil'eoil, thyme, rosemary, marjoratn, sage plus tOl11.'1to as a variation Nonnandy- apple, cider. Calrados Greece: tomato,clnnamo11oroliveoil, lemon, oregano India: Nonhem~urnin, ginger, garlic Southem-mustard seed, coconut, tama· rind, chile Italy: generally-olive oil, garlic, basil Northern Jtal)'-\\ine vinegar. garlic Southern ltaly-olil'e oil, garlic, parsley, anchovy, tomato japan: soy sauce, sake, sugar Afet1Co: -tomato and chile or lime and chile North AfriCII: cumin, coriander, cinn:unOl1, ginger, onion and/or tomato :uKl/or fruit Spain: oliwoil. garlic, nutoro1i\'eoil, onion, pepper. tomato lbmll1!1d: fish sauce, cuny, chile ifWt Afric": tomato, peanut, chile
Allhough the fl avors and aromas of fresh herbs are generally preferred, dried herbs are widel}' u$(.x! because they are re:ldily al'aiJable and convenient. Purchase only the amount of dried herbs that Gm be used within a short time If stored in a closed container in a cool, dry place. dried herbs should laS{ fer two to three months. Use less dried herbs than you would fresh herbs. The loss of moisrul't' strengthens and concentrates the fl avor in dried herbs. In general, you should use onl}' one half to one third as much dried herb as fresh in any gi\'en recipt'. For example, if a recipe calls for one l(lblespooll of fresh basil. you should substitute only one teaspooll of dried basil. YOLL Gm lIsually add more later if nee· ess:lry. Spices are often available whole or ground. Once ground, they lose their flavors rapidly, however. Whole spices should keep their flavors for man)' months if Slored in air-tight containers in a cool, dry place away from direa light. Stale spices lose their spicy aroma and develop a biller or musty after· taste. Discard them. Because ground spices release their flavors quickly, they should be added to cooked dishes near the end of the cooking period. In uncooked dishes that call for ground spices (for example, S
Bouquet Garni and Sachet The Ixmqllet gami and the sacbet are used to introduce flavorings, seasonings and aromatics into stocks, sauces, soups and stews. A bouquet garni, shown in Figure 7. 1, is a selection of herbs (usually fresh) and vegetables tied into a bundle with twine. TIle twine makes it easy to remove the bouquet when suffiCient flavor has been extracted. A standard bouquet garni consists of parsley siems, celery, thyme, leeks and carrots. A S<1chel (also known as a stlcber d '{pices) , shown in Figure 7.2, is made by tying seasonings together in cheesecloth. A standard sachet consists of peppercorns, bay leaves, parsley stems, thyme, cloves and, optionally, garlic. The exact quantity of these ingredients is determined by the amount of liquid the S<1chel is meant to Oavor. Bouquets garni and sachets are used to add flavors in such a way that the ingredients can be easHy removed from a dish when the flavors have been extracted. A similar technique, although less commonly used, is an onion
/<JTCIIEN STAPLES C'\!\.
ftLlE 7.1 &Jllqllel Gaml
FIGURE 7.2
Sac/leI
piquet To prepare an onion piquet, peel the onion and trim off the root end. Attach one or twO dried bay leaves to (he onion using whole cloves as pins. The onion piquet is then simmered in milk or stock 10 extract flavors.
Salt (Fr. set) is the most basic seasoning, and its use is universal. It preserves
foods. heightens their flavors and provides the distinctive taste of saltiness. The presence of salt can be tasted easily but not smelled. Temperature affects saltiness. The cooler a food, the sallier it tastes, so it is best to undersalt hot foods thaI will be chilled prior to service (chilled soups, for example). Culinary or table sale is sodium chloride (NaCl), one of the minerals essentialto human life. Salt contains no calories, proteins, fa ts or carbohydrates. II is avaibble from several sources, each with its own flavor and degree of saltiness. Rock salt, mined from underground deposits, is available in both edible and nonedible fom)s. It is used for home freezing. Common kitchen or table salt is produced by pumping water through underground salt deposits, lhen bringing the brine to the surface to evaporate, leal'ing behind crystals. Chemicals are usually added to prc\'em table salt from absorbing moisture and [hus keep it free-flowing. Iodized salt is commonly used in the United States. The iodine has no effect on the salt's flavor or use; it is simply added to provide an easily available source of iodine, an imponant nutrient to a large number of people. Sea salt is obtained, nOt surprisingly, by evaporating sea water and purifying the crystals left behind. Many chefs consider its flavor stronger or purer ilian mined 5.111. Kosher salt has large, irregular crystals and is used in the " koshering~ or curing of meats. It is purified rock s:L1t that contains no iodine or additives. [t C:ln be substituted for common kitchen s;llt. Because it is nonorganic, salt keeps indefinitely. It will, however, absorb moisture from the atmosphere, which prevents it from flowing properly. Salt is
01110" Piquel
131
132 ,..,.. CIIAPl1!N 7
nat
Flal'Or is 10 food . . . hue is to color. It is \\-nat timbre is to music. Flavor is adjecti\'e; food is noun. Each Ingredient has its O'Wll particular character, which Is altered by eo.-ery other ingredient it encounters. A secret ingredient is one that mysteriously improves the flavor of a dish lIithout calling attention to itself. [t is either undetectable or extremely subtle, but ilS presence is crucial because tlle dish ",wId not be nearly as goo:! without it. Primary f1arors are tllose that are obvious. such as the flavors of chicken and tarragon in a chicken tarragon, shrimp and garlic in a shrimp scampi. or beef and red wine in a!:lref iJ ((I Bourguignon. Secret ingredients belong to tlle realm of secolldary flavors. HO\Io'e\"\!r omious it is that you need tarragon to prepare a chicken tarragon. you would nOl achiere tile most interesting result using only tarragon. Tarragon, in tllis case, needs secondary Ingredients--a hint of celery seed and anise-to make it taste more like quintessential tarragon and at the same time more than tarragon. In
this way. primary flavors often depend on secret ingredients to make them more intert5l..ing and complex. Using only ooe herb or spice 10 achieve a cenain taste usually results in a lackluster dish-each mouthful tastes the same. Whether they function in a primary or secondary way. f1a\'Ors combine in onll' tluee different ways: They marry. ~, or juxtapcx;e. When flavors marry. they combine to form one taste. Some secondary f1a\"Ors marry with prim~ Olle'i 10 create a new flavor gre:uer than hie sum of its parts, and often t\\'o flavors can do the job better than one. It may sound like an eccentric combination, but vanilla marries with the f1a\'Or of lobster. making it taste more like the essena! of lobster than lobster does on ilS 0\1011. And when ginger and molasses marry, they create a f1a\'OT superior to either alone. Opposite f1:1\·ors can highlight or cancel each otller; they can cut or balance each odler. SWl!et/sour. sweet/salty, sv.-eet/hot, s.alty /sour. and salty/tan are all ~ites. Salt and sugar
are so opposed, in fact, thai \I'hen used in e<jLUl amounts they cancel each other entirel~'. SI\Ul relish helps to cancel the salty flavor of hoi dog;. Chinese sauces usually contain somt sugar to help balance the saltiness of soy saure Because flavors are sensed on different parts of tbe tongue and palate, lU1d because they art tasted at different timES, we can jml13!XR them, using flaml'S side byside or in la)'~rs. Tht la}~ring of flavors makes the food we tasIt more interesting because each mouthful is dif· ferent. Knowing how to combine many flavors and aromas to achieve a simple and pure result (and knowing \\TIen not to combine flal"Ors) \\ill make you a better, more confident ad. Good cooks {)\~r the centuries hal~ ~11 these thingo; intuilil'Cly-but they\'C had nei· ther the huge variety of ingredielll.'i nor the knowledge of world cuisines that we hare today.
from SECRET" Iflt"GNiJJI£J7$ by Olu MIOIAEt. R~
a powerful preservative; its presence SlOpS or greatly slows down the gro\\1h of many undesir.lble organisms. Salt is used to preserve meats, vegetables and fish. II is also used 10 develop desimble flavors in bacon, ham, cheeses and fish products as well as pickled vegetables.
NU'lS
.P.r-,
A nut (Fr. 1/0i.t1 is the edible Single-seed kernel of a fmit surrounded by 3 hard shell. A h"zelnut is an example of ,. tme nut. 111e terlll is used more gen· eJ:llly, however, to refer to any seed or fm it with an edible kernel in a hard shell. Walnuts and peanuts are examples of non-nut "nuls" (peanuts are legumes that grow underground; walnuts have two kernels). Nuts are :1 good source of protein and B vitamins but are high in fat. 111eir high fat content makes them especially susceptible to mncidity and odor absorption. Nut:. should be stored in nonmeta l, air-tight containers in a cool, dark place. Most nuts may be kept frozen for up to one year. Nuts are used in foods 10 provide texture and flavor. They are often rO
Almonds
Almonds (Fr. almom/e) arc the seeds of a plumlike fruit Natin~ to western India, the :Ilmond was first cultivated by the ancient Greeks. It is now a major commercial crop in California. Almonds are available
/
J<JTCIIHN STAPLES
,hole. sliced, slivered or ground. Blanched almonds have had their brown, Ie.xtured skins removed; natural almonds retain their skins. Unless the brown color of natural almond skin is undesirable, the t\\'o types can be used interch~ngeably in recipes. Almonds are frequently used in pastries and candies ;and are the main ingredient in marzipan.
Cashews, native to the Amazon, are now cultiV:Hed in India and east Africa. The cashew nut is acrually the seed of a plant related to poison ivy. Because ofloxins in the shell, cashews arc always sold shelled. TIley are expensive and ml'e a strong flavor. Cashews arc used in some Asian cuisines and make a wonderful addition to cookies and candies. Chestnuts (Fr. marrolls) are true nuts Ihat must be cooked before using. AI'lilable steamed, dried, boiled or roasted, they arc often sold as a canned puree. with or without added sugar. ~ Candied or glazed chestnuts are also 3lailable. !\Iost chestnuts are grown in Europe, primarily Italy, but new 1'3rit'lies are beginning to flourish in North America. Their distinctive flavor is found in many sweet dishes and pastries. Because of their high starch mntenl , chestnuLS .lre also used in soups anU sauces and may be served as a side dish.
Chest"uts
Coconuts (Fr. 1/00: de coco) are the seeds from
one of the largest of all fruits. TIley grow on the trOp01 coconut palm tree. The nut is a dark brown ova l,
with coarse fibers. The shell is thick and hard; w.ide is a layer of white, moist flesh. TIle interior :llso ronlJins a clear liquid known as coconut water. (111is is nO! the same as coconut milk or coconut cream, both of \\"hich arc prcp3rcd from ,ht> flesh.) Coconut has a mild aroma, a sweet, nUlly flavor and a cnmchy, chewy texture. Fresh coconU{s are readily available but require some effon to usc. Coconut flesh is available shredded or naked. with or without added sugar. Coconut is most 011('11 used in pastries and candies and is also an important ingredient in Indian and Caribbean cuisines. A gcxxl frt'Sh coconut should feel heavy: }'Oll should be able to hear the ((x:onllt water sloshing around inside. Avoid cracked, moist or mold}' coconuts. COICred
,, COCOllllts
lIazeLnuts (Fr. /loisel/e) are tme nuts that grow wild in the Nonheast and t:ppcr Micl\vest States. The cultivated foml , known as a fllbert . is native to temperate regions throughotll the Northern Hemisphere. A bit I:trger th:lO the hazelnut. il has a weaker flavor than its wild cousin. Both nuts look like smooth brown marbles. Filbens are more abundant, so arc gener.tlly less expensive. I lazelnuLS arc often ground for lISC in cah'S or pastries. TIleir diSlinctive flavor goes well with chocolate and coffee. To remove the hazelnllt"s biller skin , roast whole nuts in a n~F (135°C) oven for 12 to 15 minutes. 111ey should give off:1 good aroma and JUSt begin 10 darken. While still hot , rub the nLLts in ~ dry towel or against a mesh Sifter to remOl'e the skin.
Macadamias, although cornmercilllly significant in Hawaii, are Jauall}' native to Australia. This small round nut is creamy white with a ,·wC\.1, rich flavor :md high fat content. Its shell is extremely hard and must he removed by machine, so the macad:lmia is alw3ys sold OUI of the shell. Its ll:lI"or blends well with fmi ls, coconut and white and dark chOCOlate.
H(lzelntlls
AfflC(I(Ullll ias
. 133
134 ,..... CHAP173R 7 Peanuts (Fr. amebide), also known as groundnuts. are actually legumes that grow underground. The peanut is nath'e to South AmeriC'J; it made ilS way into North America via Africi and the slave trade. Peanuts are a good source of prOlein and fat and became an imponant source of food and oLl during \X'orld War II. They may be eaten raw or roasted and are available shelled or unshelled, with or with. Out their thin red skins. Peanuts are used in Asian cuisines and are ubiquitous ground \\ith a bit of oil imo peama butter.
Peanuls
Pecans (Fr. no;x de pacalle), native to the Mississippi River Valley, are perhaps the Illost popular nuts in America. Their flavor is rich and ~ mapley and appears most often in breads, sweets and pastries. They are available whole in the shell or in various standard sizes and grades of pieces. Pine nuts (Fr. pig1l01l), also known as pinon nuts and pignole, are the seeds of se\'eral species of pine tree. TIle small, creamy white, teardropshaped nuts are commonly used in dishes from Spain, Italy and the American Southwest. They are rarely chopped or ground because of their small size, and will need roasting only if being used in a dish that will nO! receive funher cooking. Pine nuts are used in breads, pastries and salads and are essential to classic pesto sauce.
Pecans
Pistachios (Fr. pistaches) are native to central Asia, where they have been cultivated for more than 3000 )'t:ars. Califomla now produces most of the pistachios marketed in this country. Pistachios are unique for the green color of their meat. When ripe, the shell opens naturally at one end, aptly referred to as "smiling, " which makes shelling the OlLIS quite e::lsy. Red pistachios are dyed, nm natural. Pist3chios are sold whole, shelled or unshelled, and are used in p:lstries and meat dishes, panicularly p:itcs. I'islachios
Pille fr'/Ils
TABLE
7.2 .n-.
NlITRITIONAL VALUES OF CoMMON NlITS
Per 1 Ounce (28 g) Serving
Protein
Almonds, whole kernels Cashews, dry roaswd Chestnuts, roasted and pL-elL"
Pecans
Walnuts, English '!be Corimu.' T.
N/'IZI'Y
Calories
(g)
167 163 70 191 199 159 190 182
5.7 4A 0,9 3,6 2.4
t:llc),cIO{Xvl/fI of food 1'tJlues 1992
n
2.2
4,1
Carbohydrates (g)
Toml Fat
Salur:ue
Sodium
(g)
(g)
(mg)
5,8 9,3
14.8 13.2
IA
2.6
15.0 4.5
3 4
M
OJ
19.1
IA 31 L9 15 L6
39 4,5 52 5,2
209
13.8 19.2
17,6
I 5 ,~'"
3
l
KlJrIlEN !JTAPLFS ~
135
Walnuts (Fr. I/oix), relatives of the pecan, are native to Asia, Europe and \oM America. The black walnut, native to Appalachia, has a dark brown meat and a suong flavor. TIle English walnut, now grown primarily in California , has a milder flavor, is easier to shell and is less expensive. Walnuts are more popular than pecans outside the United Slales. They are used in baked goods and :He pressed for oil.
OILS .Ph Oils (Fr. blli/e) are a type of fa l that remains liquid at room temperature. Cooking oils are refined from variolls'" seeds, plants and vegetables. (Other Eflglish 1f~lllIIlls fats. such as butter and llL1 rgarine, are discussed in Chapter 8, Dairy Products; animal and solid fats are discussed in Chapter 29, Principles of the Bakeshop.) When purchasing oils, yOli should consider their use, smoke point . flavor Smo ke pollll-ibe lemperalw'e al u:hlcb 0[01 and COSt. Fats, induding oils and shortenings, are manufactured for specific begins to &mIlt d01.111 olld smo/le. purposes such as deep-frying, cake-baking, salad dressings and sauteing. Most Shortenlng--a [(II, usuolly m(J{/e from regefobJe oils, lbal is roIid (II room lemper(llure. food service operations purchase different ones for each of these needs. FalS break down at different temperatures. The temperature at which a giren fat begins \0 break down and smoke is known as its smoke paint. Otoose falS with higher smoke points for high temperature cooking such as deep-fr)ing and sauteing. If a fat with a low smoke paint is used for high temperature cooking, it may break down, burn and impan undesirable flavors. The flavor and cost of each oil must also be considered. For example, both com oil and walnut oil 111.:"1.y be used in a salad dressing. Their selection may depend on balancing cost (corn oil is less expensive) against flavor (walnut oil has a Sl.ronger. more distinaive flavor). When fats spoil, they are said to go rancid. Rancidity is a chemical change Clused by exposure to air, light or heat. It results in objectionable flavors and odors. Different fats turn rancid at different rates, but all fats benefit from refrigerated storage away from moisture, light and air. (Some oils are packaged in colored gl:lss containers because cenain tints of green and yellow block the damaging light rays that can G\use an oil to go rancid.) Although oils may become thick and cloudy under refrigeration, this is not a cause fo r concern. The oUs will return to thei r clear, liquid states at room temperature. Stored fats should also be covered to prevent the absorption of odors. \'egttable oils are extracted from a variety of plants, including corn, cottonseed, pe3nuts and soybeans, by pressure or chemical solvents. l11e oil is then refined and cleaned [0 remove unwanted colors, ooors or f1aI"OTS. Vegetable oils are vinually ooorless and have a neuual flavor. Because they contain no animal products, ther are cholesterol-frcc. If a commercial produa conuins only one type of oil, it is labeled "pure" (as in -pure com oil"). Products labeled ~vegetable oil" are blended from scveral sources. Products labeled ~salad oil" are highly renned blends of vegetable oil. Canota oil is processed from rapeseeds. Its papubri~' is growing rapidly because it contains no cholesterol and has a high percentage of monounsatur.lled fat. Canola oil is useful for frying and general cooking beCIUSC it has no flavor and a high smoke CI/I/Olo Oil iXlint.
",
~ == Tue OUVE Olives are the fruit of a tree nath-e to the Mediterranean area. Creen olil-es are those harvested unripened; black olives are fully ripened. The raw fruit is inedibly bitter and must be .....ashed, soaked and pickled before eating, Green olives should hal'e a smooth, light skin. Ripe olives will be glossy but softer, wHh a slightly wrinkled skirl. Many varieties and flavors are available, from the tiny bl:ICk Ni~ise to the large purplish Kalamata. Olives are packaged in a range of sizes, from medium (the smallest) 10 jumbo (the largest). (Colossal and super colossal olives are actually smaller than jumbos.) Pitted oHYeS are also available. The cavity may be filial \\-ith strips of pimento, jalapeo pepper, almonds or other foods for flavor and """"""",. Olh~ are used as a finger food for snacks or hors d' oeuvres, or added to salads or pasta. They may C\'ell be cooked in bre-Jds, soups, sauces, ste\\-'S :uld casseroles. II paste made of minced ripe OIiI'CS, knovoTl as tapenade, is used as a dip or condiment.
Nut oils are e.xtracted from a variety of nuts and are almost always packaged as a "pure" product, never blended. A nut oil should have the strong flavor and aroma of the nut from which it was processed. Popular examples are walnut and hazelnut oils. These oils are used to give flavor [Q salad dressings, marinades and other dishes. Bur heat diminishes their flavor, so nut oils are not recommended for frying or baking. Nut oils tend 10 go mncid quickly and therefore are usually packaged in small containers. /fazelnlllOil , Olive oil (Fr. bllile dfolive) is the only oil that is extmcted from a fmit rather than a seed, nut or grain. Olive oil is produced primarily in Spain, italy, France, Greece and Nonh Mrica; California produces a relatively minor amount of olive oil. Like wine, olive oils vary in color and flavor according to the variety of tree, the ripeness of the olives, the type d soil, the climate and the producer's preferences. Colors range from dark green to almost clear, depending on !he ripeness of the olives at the rime of pressing and the amount of subsequent refining. Extra Virgin Olive Oil Color is not a good indication of flavor, ho\\'· ever. Flavor is ultimately a mailer of personal preference. A stronger-flavored oil may be desired for some fc:xxls, while a milder oil is better for others. Good oli\'e oil should be thicker than refined vegellible oils, but nOt so thick that it has a fauy texture. The label designations--extra virgin, virgin :Ind pure-refer to the aCidil), of the oil (a low acid content is preferable) and the extent of processing used to extract the oil. The first cold-pressing of the olives results in virgin oil. (The designation "virgin~ is llsed only when the oil is 1()()OAl unadulterated olive oil, unheated and without any chemical processing.) Virgin oil may still vary in quality depending on ilS aCidity level. Extra \'irgin oil is virgin oil with an acidity level of nOl more than 1%; virgin oil may have an acidity level of up to 3%. Pure olive oil is processed (rom the pulp left after the first pressing using heat and chemicals. Pure oil is lighter in flavor and less expensi\'e than virgin oil. Flavored oils, also known as infused oils, are an interesting and increasingly popular condiment. TIlese oils may be lLsed as a cooking medium or flavoring accent in marinades, dressings, sauces or other dishes. Flavors include basil and other herbs, garlic, citnlS and spice. Flavored oils are genemlly prepared with olive oil for additional flavor or canolll oil, both considered more healthful than other falS. Top-qualiry commercially flavored oils are prepared by extracting aromatic oils from the flavoring ingredients and then emulsifying them with a highgmde oil; any impurities are then removed by placing the oil in a centrifuge. Using the aromatic oils of the flavoring ingredients yields a more intense flavor than merely steeping the same ingredients in the oil. Flavored oils should be stored as you would any other high-quality oil.
J.'JTCllfN SfAPi.fS ~
Tw. 7.3
J'r> TilE SMOKE
Pom,
137
AND NUTRJTIONAL VALUES
0' CoMMON FATS Prr I Ounce
(28 g) Serving
Smoke Paino
0In,t' oil ItInut oil
l!uner, darified'
437"F/225"C 425<>F/2IS<>C 370"F/ 188"C 425"F/218"C 325-'iOO"F( 163-204"C 400"F/ 204"c ..
'I'hoIe bullt'r, unsahl.'
26O"F/ 127"C
oro
CaooIa oil "~lnul oil
Total Fat (g)
S,lturated Fat (g)
251 230 251 240
28.4 28.4 25.6 28.4 28.0
3.8 4.8 10.0 2.0 4.0
248 200
28.2 22.8
17.6 14.2
Galories
251
1bt Corlmw T Netzer £nC)'c/OjXwia 0/ Food I hlue5 1992
'!N.cussed in Chapler 8
VINEGARS
.P.r-,
\'inegar (Fr. mllaigre) is a thin. sour liquid used fo r thousands of years as a preseryative, cooking ingrediem, condiment and cleaning solulion. Vinegar is Itttined through the fermentation of wine or other alcoholic liquid. Baderia anacks (he alcohol in lhe solulion, wrning it into acetic acid. No alcohol will remain when the transformation is complete. The Quality of vinegar depends upon the quality of the wine or mher liquid on which it is based. Vinegar fla -
are as varied as the liquids from which Ihey are made. should be dear and clean looking, never cloud)' or muddy. Commcrcbl Vinegars are pasteurized, so an unopened boule should last indefinitely in a cool, dark place. Once opened, vinegars should last about three months iflightJy capped. Any sedimem thai develops can be strained Olll; if mold de\~, discard Ihe vinegar. Wine vinegars are as old as wine itself. They may be made from white or (t'
\~neg:trs
Bols",l/ic Vinegar, RasPberr)' Vinegllr II"d Cider Vil/egar
138 ,.,...
ClW'T£JI 7
Balsamic vinegar
01.
aceto Balsam;co) is newly popular in the United
States, though it has been produced in luly for more than 800 years. To produce balsamic vinegar, red wine vinegar is aged in a succession of wooden barrels made from a variety of woods----oak, cherry, locust, :Ish, mulberry and juniper-for at least 4, but sometimes lip to ;0, years. The resulting liquid is dark reddish-brown and sweet. Balsamic has a high acid level, but the sweet·
ness covers the tart flavor, making it very mellow. True balsamic is extrcme~' expensive because of the long aging process and the small quantities available. Most of the commercial products imported from Italy are now made by a quick carmelization and flavoring process. Balsamic is excellent as a condiment cr seasoning and has a remarkable affinity for tomatoes and strawberries.
,
CONDIMENTS .n-, Relish-,f rooied or pdl«l SIlua usually
made u~"/!J l-egetables or [ruils; COIl be smooth or chlll/ky, su'td or SIlWry (lml hoi or mild. Pickle-/. 1b preserf'e food hI a brille or lmegar stJiu/io1l, 2. Food dxil bas been prt'Smw/ ill (I SfflSOlItd brine or /'il/egar, especiIIl/yalcum.
ben. Pick/iff cucumbers are limitable whole, sJiad, in uw/ges, or cboffJed as a relish, and may be sum, SOIlr, dill-jlarori!d or hoi alld spky.
Yellow Mustard
Strictly speaking, a condiment is any food added to a dish for flavor, induding herbs, spices and vinegars. Today, however, condiments more often refer to cooked or prepared flavorings , such as prepared mustards, relishes, bottled sauces and pickles. We discuss sever"l frequently used condimenlS here. These staples may be used to alter or enhance the flavor of a dish during cooking or added to a completed dish al the table by the consumer. Prepared mustard is a mixture of crushed mustard seeds, vinegar or wine and salt or spices. It can be flavored in many ways-with herbs. onions, pcppers and even citrus zest. [t can be a smooth paste or coarse and chunky, depending on how finely the seeds are ground and whether the skins are strained out. Prepared mustard gets its tangy flavor from an essential oil thai forms only when the seeds are cmshed and mixed with water. Prepared mustard can be used as a condiment, particularly with meat and charcuterie items, or as a flavoring ingredient in sauces, stews and marinades. Oijon mustard takes its name from a town and the surrounding region in France that produces about half of the world's mustard. French mustard b· beled " Oijon ~ must, by law, be produced only in that region. Oijon and Dijonstyle mustards are smooth with a rich, complex flavor. English and Chinese mustards are made from mUStard flour and cool water. They are extremely hot and powerful. American or '·baUpark mustard is mild and vinegary with a bright yellow color. Mustard never really spoils, its flavor just fades away. Because of ilS high acid content, mustard does not tum ranCid, but it will oxidize and develop 2 dark surface crust. Once opened, mustard should be kept well-covered and reo frigerated. Soy sauce is a thin, dark brown liquid fermented from cooked soy beans. wheat and salt. Available in several flavors and strengths, it is ubiquitous in most Asian cuisines. Light soy sauce is thin, with a light brown color and a very salty flavor. Dark soy sauce is thicker and dark brown, with a sweet, less salty flavor. Necessary for preparing man}' Asian dishes, soy sauce is also used in marinades and sauces and as an all-purpose condiment. Other soy-based condiments include tamari, teriyaki sauce and fermented bean paste (miso). Ketchup (also known as catsup or catchup) originally referred to any salty extract from fish , fm its or vegetables. Prepared tomato ketchup is really a sauce, created m America and used worldwide as a flaVOring ingredient or condiment. It is bright red and thick, with a tangy, sweet-sour flavor. Ketchup can be stored either in the refrigerator or at room temperature; it should keep well for up to four months after opening. Ketchup does nO{ tum rancid or de· velop mold, but it will darken and lose flavor as it ages. H
Dijo1/ Muslim'
Whole-grain Musiard
Browll Mlls/,mi
h
f.'JTCHEN Sl'APlES
. 139
~ ==================== SHELF
FRO.II YOllR GROCLR'S
E\m the IJ'Iret sophisliClted focxl service op- sail. II is the quintessential Thai seasoning. but mlioo occasionally uses prepared condiments is used throughout Southe::st Asia. II is ex«fla\1lrings. The products described here are tremely salty with a powerful aroma. 111ere is wD:Iy usa! and al'rulable from grocery stores no substitute; ooly a small amount is necESSary "..OOIeSaJe pul"l~"ors. Some are brand-name for most dishes. IIems thai hal"!! become almost S}TIOII)111OUS lIomfl-fioisin sauce :s a dark, thick, I'IIh !he pro:luct itself; others are available salty-sweet sauce made from fennented 'YJ'f fnxn SfI-eraJ manufacturers. beans, vinegar, garlic and caramel. 1I is used in Barbecue sauce-Uke ketchup, commer- Chinese dishes or ser.>OO as a dipping sauce. d2I batbecue sallCf is a mixture of tomatoes, \. Old Bay- .!WlJVning-Old Bay· is a dry nnegar and spices; it tend<; to be hotter and spice blend containing celery salt, dry mustard, ll'eeler than ketchUp, h()l>,"CI"er. Commercial paprik:t and other f1al'orin~. It is widely used Iwbecue sauce is used primarily for marinat- in shellfish preparations, especially boiled Irl« or basting meat, poultry or fish. A tremen- shrimp and crab. E \'3rie!y of ba!becue sauces is available, Oyster sauce--O),ster sauce is a thiCk, dark wah l-ariOUS Hanlfs, textures and aromas. Sam- sauce made from oyster extracl. It has a saltypIe!el'er:l! before selecting the most appropriate S\\-eet f1al'or and a rich aroma. O)"Ster sauce is b')'OUr specific needs. often used with stir-fried me~ts and poultry. Fish S/1uce-Fish sauce is a thin, dark PickfI/X'P(XI® sauce-Pickapeppa® sauce Iwown liquid made from anchO\y extrnct and is a dark thick, sv.~t-hOl blend of tomatoes,
COFFEES AND TE4S
.n.
Coffee lind tea :Ire the staples of most beverage menus. Despite their relati\"\~lr low price, a good cup of coffee or tea can be extreme;y important to a CUSlomer's impression of your food service operation. A cup of coffee is often either the ver)' first or the very last item consumed by a customer. TC'J. whether iced or hOI, is often consumed throughout the meal. Consequently, it is important that you learn to prepare and serve these beverages properly.
Coffee Coffee (Fr. cafe) begins as the fruit of a small tree grown in lropical and subtropical regions throughout the world. The fmit, referred to as a cherry, is bright red with translucent flesh surrounding two flat -sided seeds. These seeds are the coffee beans. When ripe, the cherries are harvested by hand, then dc-aned. fermented :lnd hulled, leaving the green coffee beans. The beans are then roasted, blended, ground and brewed. Note that any coffee bean can be roasted to any degree of darkness, ground to any degree of fineness and '-t'wed by any number of methods. Onlr two species of coffee bean are rout"inely used: arabica and robusta. Arabica beans are the mOSt important commercially and the ones from which the fincs! coffees are produced. Robusta beans do nOi produce as flavorful a drink as 3rabica. Nevertheless, robusta beans are becoming increasingly signifkant commercially, in part because robusta trees are heartier and more fertil e than arJbica trees.
onions, sugar, \inegar, mango. raisins, tanlarinds and spices Produced in Janlaica, West Indies, it is used as a condiment for meat, game or fish and as a seasoning in sauces, soups and dressin~. Tabasro$ s(Juce-Tabasco* sauce is a thin, bright red liqUid blended from vineglf, chiles and salt. Its fiery flavor is widely used in sauces, soups and prepared dishes; it is apopular condiment for Mexican, southern and southWe)tem ruisines. Tahasco«l S3ure has been produced in Louisianasinre 1868. Other '"Louislanastyle" hot sauces (those containing only peppers, vlnegarandsah) may be substituted. Worceslersbire stluce-Worcestershire sauce is a thin, dark brown liquid made from malt vinegar, tamarind, molasses and spices. It is used as a condiment for beef and as a seasoning in sauce;, soups, stews and prepared dishes. Its Hal'Qrshoold be rich and full , but not salty.
140
CfW'l'I:R 7
The conditions in which the beans are grown have almost as much effea on the final product as subsequent roasting, grinding and brewing. Because
coffee takes much of its fl:l\'or and character from the soil. sunlight and air, the beans' origin is critical to the product 's final qU:llity_ E.1ch valley and mountain produces coffee distinct from all Others, so geographic names are used 10 identify the beans whether they are from arabica or robusta trees. Thus, purveyoo may offer beans known as Columbian, Chanchamayo (from Peru), Kilimanjaro (from Tanz.:mia), Blue Mountain (from Jamaica), Java, Sumatra or Kana (from Hawaii), to name a fcw. Although many so-called gounnct coffees are made from a single type a bean, nearly all coffee sold in the United States is a blend of various qualities and types of bean.
,
RO(lsting Coffee Roasting releases and enhances the flavors in coffee, [t :lIso darkens the beans and brings natural oils to the surface. Traditionally, almost everyone roasted their own coffee beans because all coffee beans were sold green. Today, how· ever, roasting is left to experts who possess the necessary equipment. It is important to recognize and understand some of the standard descriptions used for various types of roasting. No single international organization controls the naming of roasted coffee, however, so a coffee roaster may refer to products by any name. The following descriptions are based on the m05t common temlinology:
Green Coffee 8etms
Cily-roast /k(ms
• City roast: Also called American or brown roast, city roast is the most widely used coffee style in this country. City roast produces a bc"erage that may lack brilliance or be a bit flat , yet it is the r(Xlst most Americans assume they prefer because it is the roast most often used in grocery store blends. • Brazilian: Somewhat darker than a city mist, Brazilian roast should begin to show a hint of dark-roast flavor. TIle beans should show a trace of oil. In this context, the word Brazili(m has no relationship to coffee grown in Brazil. • Viennese: Also called medium-dark roaSI, Viennese roast generally falls somewhere between a standard city roast and French roast. • French roast: Fre nch roasl, also called New Orleans o r dark roast, approaches espresso in flavor without sacrificing smoothness. The beans should be the color of semi-sweel chocolate, wilh apparent oiliness on the surface. • Espresso roast: Espresso roast, also called Italian roast , is the darkest of all. The beans are roasted until they are virtually burnt. TIle beans should be black with a shiny, oily surface.
Griuding Coffee Unlike roasting, which is best left to the experts, the grinding of coffee beans is best left to the consumer or food service operation. Whole coffee beans stay fresh longer than ground coffee. Ground coffee kept in an air-tight comainer away from heat and light will stay fresh for Ihree or four days. Whole beans will stay fresh for a few weeks and may be kept frozen for several months, as long as they are dry and protccted from other flavors. Frozen coffee beans do not need 10 be thawed before grinding and brewing. Do not refrigera te coffee. The fineness of the grind depends entirely on the Iype of coffee maker being used. The grind determines the length of lime it takes to achieve the 0]>-
KJl"CHEN SfAl'LES
C"\!l.
141
!Ullum 09%) extraction from the beans. The proper grind is simply whatever grind allows this to happen in the lime it takes a specific coffee maker to compkle its brewing cycle. Follow the directions for your coffee :naker, or ask your specialty coffee purveyor for guidance.
Breu;illg Coffee Coffee is brewed by one of two methods: decoction or infusion. Decoction !l1l'3.1lS boiling a substance until its flavor is removed. Boiling is the oldest method of making coffee, but is no longer used except in preparing extremely Ilrong Turkish coffee. Infusion refers to the extraction of flavors at temperatures below boiling. Infusion techniques include steeping (mixing hot water with ground coffee), filtering (slowly pouring hot water over ground coffee held in a dispo~lble cloth or paper filter) and dripping (pouring hot water over ground coffee and allowing the liquid (0 run through a strainer). Percolating is undesir:lble, as the continuous boiling ruins the coffee's flavor. The secrets to brewing a good cup of coffee are knowing the exact proportion of coffee to water as well as ,he lengill of time to maintain contact between the two. The best results are nearly always achieved by using twO Ie\·el tablespoons of ground coffee per 3/4 measuring Cup (6 ounces) of WJter. (A standard cup of coffee is three-quarters the size of a standard mea5Uring cup; one pound of coffee yields approximately 80 level tablespoons or t'OO:Jgh for 40 "cups~ of coffee.) An Approved Coffee Measure CACM) was deo,·elopcd by the Coffee Brewing Instimte to measure twO level tablespoons lccurately. ACM scoops are readily available and are often included with reui! coffee packages. Premeasured packages of ground coffee are generally used with commer001 brewing equipment. These packages are available in a range of sizes for ll1:1king single pots or large urns of coffee. If stronger coffee is desired, usc more coffee per cup of water, nOt a longer brewing time. For weaker coffee, prepare regular-strength coffee and dilute it \\ith hOi water. Never reuse coffee grounds. Coffeepots and carafes should be cleaned well with hot water between E'ach usc; coffec makers should be disassembled and cleaned according to the manufacturer's directions. Unless properly cleaned, oils from coffee form an inlisible film on the inside of the maker and pots, imparting a rancid or stale flaI·or to cach subsequent batch. FiruUy, coffee should be served as soon as it is brewed. Oxidation takes a toll on the aroma and flavor, which soon become fl at and eventually bitter. Coffee may be held for a short time on the coffeema ker's hot plate at temperatures of 18;oF to 190°F (85°C to 88"C). A better holding method, however, is to immediately pour freshly brewed coffee into a thermal carafe. Never attempt to reheat cold coffee, as drastic temperature shifts destroy flavor.
Tastillg CoJJee Coffee can be judged on four characteristics: aroma, acidity, body and flavor. As a general mle, coffee will taste the way il smells. Some coffees, particuurly Colombian, are more fragrant than others, however. Acidity. also called wininess, refers to the tartness of the coffee. Acidity is a desirable characteristic that indicates snap, life or thinncss. Kenyan and Guatemalan are examples of particularly acidic coffees. Bod)' refers to the feeling of heaviness or thickness that coffee provides on the p3bte. Sumatran is generally the heaviest, with MexicJll and Venezuelan being the lightest.
~ == DON'T WRECK
mil'
ENDING
loIS of time and thought are spent on selecting the wines to accompany the various savory course; of a meal, but too often at the SVo-eet course the ," to use Richard Olney's phJ'JSe. Chocolate, \\-nether in the foml of pastry or confection, belong'> with coffee, ",nose aromatic bitteTlll$ is a perfect
foil for it. ThE
un-: RtCHARD II. GIW'I',
Chairmall, QW.ONE Wi\'E GROllP
J42
~~
CIIAPTER 7
Flavor, of course, is the mOSt ambiguous as well as the most important characteristic. Terms such as mellow, harsh, grassy or earthy are used to descrilx the rather subjective characteristics of flavor.
Servillg Coffee Coffee may be served unadorned, unsweetened and black (without milk CI cream). TIle customer then adds the desired amount of sugar and milk. Other coffee beverages are made with specific additions and provide value-added menu alternatives. The most common ways of serving coffee are described here. • Espresso: Espresso refers to a unique brewing method in which hot water b forced through finely ground and packed coffee under high pressure.
• • Steamed milk-milk Ibfll is healed with sI(!(Im gt'Ileraled by all ts/)rmfJ l1IadJille; it shollld be O/fJfO.'dmllll'ly 150°F 10 170"F (65 "C 10 76"C). Foamed milk-milk lhal is heal«1 (md froIbtrl uwb air alld s/«Im [Jf!1leraJ1.'(l by (III espres:so maciJ;1Ie; it uifl be sligblly cooler l/xm s/«Imerl milj.
• •
•
•
Properly made, it will be strong, rich and smooth, not bitter or acidic. Espresso is usually made with beans that have Ix.-en roasted very dark, but any type of bean may be used. A single serving of espresso uses about 1/4 ounce (7 grams) of coffee to 1 112 ounces (45 milliliters) of water. Americans tend to prefer a larger (:>onion, known as espresso lungo, made with 2 to 3 ounces (60 to 90 grams) of water. Espresso maclliatto: Espresso "marked" with a tiny ponion of steamed milk. Cappuccino: One third espresso, one third steamed milk and one third foamed milk; the total serving is still rather sm:\II, about 4 to 6 ounces (120 to 180 grams). Caffe lane: One third espresso, two thirds steamed milk without foam: usually served in a tall glass. Cafe au lail: the French \'ersion of the Italian caffe lane, cafe au lait (or cafe creme) is made with Strong coffee instead of espresso and hot, not steamed, milk. It is traditionally served in a handleless bowl. Caffe mocha: One third espresso, two thirds steamed milk, flavored with chocolate syrup; usually topped with whipped cream and chocolate sha\'ings or cocoa. Flavored coffees: Dried, ground chicory root has long been added to coffee, panicularly by the French who enjoy its bitter flavor. Toasted barley, dried figs and spices have also been used by variOllS cultures for years. Coffees flavored with vanilla, chocolate, liquors, spices :md nuts have recently become popular in the United States. These flavors are added to roasted coffee beans by rumbling the beans with special flavoring oils. The results are strongly aromatic flavors such as vanilla hazelnut, chocolate raspberry or maple walnut.
Decaffeinated Coffee Caffeine is an alkaloid found in coffee beans (as well as in tea leaves and cocoa beans). It is a stimulant that can improve alertness or reduce fatigue. In excess, however, caffeine can cause some people to suffer palpitations or insomnia. Regular filtered coffee contains from 85 to 100 milligrams of caffeine per cup. Robusta beans contain more caffeine than the bel1er-quality arabica beans. Decaffeinated coffee (with 97% or more of the caffeine removed) is designed to meet consumer desires for a caffeine-free product. Ofber Uses In addition to its use as a beverage, coffee is freque ntly an ingredient in mixed drinks such as Irish coffee (with whiskey and cre,lOt) or cafe brulot (with orange, cloves and brandy). Coffee is also used in stews, sauces and pan gravy. It may be added to breads, such as rye and pumpernickel, cakes, custards, ice creams, dessert sauces and frostings. TIle flavor of coffee has a strong affinity for chocolate, nuts and rum.
KJTr:IIEN JTAPLES ~
143
~ ====== A CUP OF COfFEE HISTOW
Scm: anthropologists suggest thaI coffee by central African . . .'at. mrs in theform cI a paste made from mashed • m and animal fal roUed iOlo balls. £an before baltie, the animal fat and bean fdin PJ'OIiOC-d nourishment; the caffeine proOO:rl a Slimulant. II botcoffee drink may first h,m~ been con· ftI irutiaUyconsumed
unedsometime during the 9th century A.D. in Fmi1 Made by a decoction of ripe beans, the Iktnk 'II'aS pi'OOably l'ery thick and acrid. Nerer·
IbeIess, by the year lOOO, Ihe elile of the Arab were regularly drinking a decoction of Ihd carre beans. The beans were harvested in ~nia (Ethiopia) and broughllO market by Egj.f(ian merchants. Within a century or so, bhwa became immensely ~ular \lith memo bers Ii aU strata of Arab society. Coffeehouses qIfIl'd throughout the la':ll1l, calering to cos· tmers Iloilo siAlfrl tile thick, brown bre.v while ikussing affairs d hean and state. .lJtOOugb European tt:ll'elers to the 0\tman Empire had laSted coffee, and a few .\0001 Thrkish merchants thing in Marseilles dItMI their~ a chance 10 sample the rare timk. coffee did not become Mlular in Ell• until the 17th century. Its popularity is
m
due in great pan to Suleiman Aga, the Grand Panjandrum of the OUOffian Empire. In 1669. he arril'ed al the murt of King Louis XIV Qf France as ambassador, bringing with him many exotic treasures, including caffe. Offered at his
Tea (Fr. tbe") is Ihe name given 10 Ihe leaves of Camellia Sinensis, a tree or .Wub that grows at high altitudes in damp tropical regions. Although tea comes from only one species of plant, Ihere are three general types of teahllck, green and oolong. The differences among the three are the result of Ihe 1!lJnner in which the leaves are trealed after picking. Black lea is amber-brown and strongly flavored. Its color and flavor result from femlcnting the leaves. Black le:1 leaves are named or sraded by leaf size. Because larger leaves brew more slowly than smaller ones, teas are sorted by k:lf size for efficient brewing. Souchong denotes large leaves, pekoe denotes medium-sized leaves and orange pekoe denotes lhe smallest whole leaves. (\Q(c thaI orange pekoe does not refer 10 any type of orange navor.) Broken te3. grnded as either broken omnge pekoe or broken pekoe, is smaller, resulting in 3 (i.1rker, stronger brew. l3roken tea is most oflen used in tea bags. These grades applr to oolh Chinese and Indian black teas. Grttn lea is yellowish-green in color with a bitter navor. Leaves used for green tea arc nOI fermented. Chinese green tea leaves are also graded according 10 leaf size and :lge. The finest green tea is Gunpowder, followed by imperi.ll and Hyson.
\
,
-
Fnlif Tea
f)arjeeling
144 r'\!\,
C!W'THR 7
~ ==
TEA FIA I'ONS The follov.ing de'.criptions apply to scme of the teas frequently available through .."nolesa!ers or gOUm1e1 suppliers. Taste !e'/era! different ones to find the best for yoor purposes. Remember that the same tea from different blenders or distributors may taste differen~ and that different flavors will be more or less appropriate for different Hnle) of the day. You may wish to offer your patrons a selection of flavors. A\sam-a rich black tea with a reddish color from Northern India. It is valued by connoisseurs. especially for breakfast. Cerlon-a full-flavored black tea widl a golden color and delicate fragmnce. Ideal for serving ica\, it does not become doudy when cold, Darjeeling-the champagne of te3S, grown in the foothills of the Himalayas. 11 is a full-bodied, black tea with a muscat flalur_ Earl Grey-a blend ofblack teas, usuall)' including DarjeeUng. flarOM \\;Ih oil of bergamot. Apopular choice for afternoon tea. English Breakf3St-an English blend of Indian and Sri Lankan black te3S; it is fullbodied and robust, with a rich color, Gunpov.'der-a green Chinese tea with a tightly curled le-J! and gray-green color. II has a pungent flal'{)T and a light Str".IW color. 11 is often served after the cvcning meal. Keemum-a mellow black Chinese tea with a strong aroma. It is less 3Stringent than otller teas ;md is delicious iced, I.apsang Souchong-a large-leafed (souchong) tea from the Lapsang dislrict of China. [t has a distinctive larry, smoky flavor and aroma, appropriate for afternoon te:! or dinner. FOT1ll(l5a Oolong-a unique and expensive large-leafed oolong tea with the flavor of ripe peaches. It is apjlropriate for breakfast or afternoon tea.
Oolong tea is panial1y ferme nted to combine Ihe charncleristics of blact and green teas. Oolong is popular in China and Japan, oflen flavored with ia.'" mine flowers. Oolong tea leaves are also grdded by size and age_ As wilh coffee, tea takes much of ilS flavor from the geogrnphic conditiOOi in which it is grown. Teas are named for their place of origin, for example. DaJjeeling, Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) or ASS:lm. Many popular and commerciaIl!" available teas are actual1y blends of leaves from various sources. Blended am unblended leas may also be flavored with oils, dried fmit, spices, flowers (I herbs.
Brewing Tea Tea may be brewed by the cup or the pOl. In either GISe, il is important to ux the following procedure: I . Always begin with clean equipment ,md freshly drawn cold water. \'i':ltl'l'
2_
3. 4.
5.
(i
7.
B-
Ihat has been sitting in a kcttle or hot water tank contains less air and win taste flat or stale. Warm the teapot by rinsing its interior with hOt water. This begins 10 relal the tea leaves and ensures Ihat the water will stay hot when it comes in contact with the tea. place one teaspoon (5 millimetcrs) of loose tea or one tea bag per 3/4 rup (6 ounces/ ISO grnms) of W:ller capacity in the warmed teapot. As soon as the water comes to a boil, pour the appropriate amount OI'tT the tea. Do not allow the water to continue boiling as this removes the o~' gen, leaving a flat taste. TIle water should be al a full boil when it comt'S in comaCI with the tea so th:1I the tea leaves will uncurl and rele:lSi' rhrir flavor. Replace me lid of the teapOI and allow the tea to infuse for 3 to 5 minutes. Time the brew. Color is not a re1i:lbJe indiGltion of brewing time: Ie:! leaves release color before flavor, and different types of tea will be differ· ent colors when properly brewed. Remove the tea bags or loose tea from the water wben brewing is complete. This can be accomplished e:Lsily if the teapot is fitted with a remOl'· able leaf basket or if a tea bag or a perforaled le:t b;ll1 is used. Otherwise, decant the tea through a stra iner inlo a second warmed tcapot. Serve immediately, accompanied with sugar, lemon, milk (not cream) and honey as desired. Dilute the tea with hot water if necessary. Do nOI reuse tea leaves. One pound of tea yields 200 cups, making il the most inexpensive be\'erage after tap water.
For iced tea, prepare regular brewed tea using 50% more tea . TIlen pour the tea into a pitcher or glass filk"
Serving Tea
Tis ancs-berlxll in/llsions lhal do 1101 WNltlill "real" letl; ertlllipies illd/uk COlllnQlllilt, gill-
filly
sl!IIg IIlId /elllOIl /xl/III. 7I5a1l('$lIre prepared ill lhe Slime I/'(/y f4S 1M ill/llsiOlIS.
Black and oolong tea may be served hot or cold, but green tea is best served hOt, Black lea is served with milk or lemon and sugar; green and oolong tea are most often served plain. Adding milk to hot le:1 is a British preference (llO! normally followed in Europe or Asia) thai reduces the astringency of the tea. Iced tea, an American invention, may be served plain or sweetened, and is often garnished with lemon, orange or fresh mint.
KIJr;HEN STAPLES
(""2\.,
145
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A CUP OF TFA HISTORY Some belie'.-e that the Chinese Emperor tim ~un&discm'eled tea drinking in 2737 8.C. 1qeOO hoItk that the Emperor was boiling his ilinkIng waler beneath a tree when some R fell into the pot. Enchanted with the Ihtk. he began to cultivate the plant. Whether ar,th or truth. it is knovm th:lt a hot drink 1liiie from Jl(7)\"dered dried tea lean~ whipped IIkI hoi linter II~ regularly con.sumal in OIinasometime after the 4th century. Later, demctionsoftea leaves (as weI! as rice, spices and. oors) bocame popular. But it W1lS not until the Ming dynasty (A.D. 136B--1644) that infusions dlta IeaItS bec:une commonplace. II'! til! 9th centUlY, tea drinking had spread klJapan.ln both Chinese and J3Jlanese cultures, lIdtinkingde\-eloped into:l ritual. For the Chinese, acup of tea bec:lme the mirror of ~le soul. fa' IheJarlnese, it was the drink of immortality.
'lea was first transported lrom China to Europe by Dutch merchants during the early 16005. By mid-cefltUlY, it W'.:S introduced into England. In 1669, the East. h:dia Comp:ll1y was granted a charter by Queen Elizabeth 110 import tea, a monopoly it held Jlllii 1833. To ensure a steady supply, the English surreptitiously procured plants from China 2nd started plantations throughout the Indian subcontinent, as did the Dutch. Tea drinking became fashionable in Engl:U1d, at least in court Circles, through Charles II (l'"Jised in exile at The Hague in Hoiland, he reignoo from 1660 until 1685) and his Portuguese wife, Catherine of Braganza Queen Anne of England (reignoo 1702- 1714) introduced 5e\'Cr-J.i conrepts that e\"Cntuaily became part of the English tea cust~n. For example, she substituted tea for ale at breakfast and
Kitchen ~taples include fresh and dried herbs, spices, sail, nuts, oils, vinegars, condimenlS, coffees and leas. You must be able to recognize, purchase, store and use manr of these staples. The only war [0 determine which brand or lylX' of staple is best for your p:mirular needs is 10 taste, smell, sample and use a variety of those available. Cost, convenience and storage factors must also be considered. By maintaining :1 supplr of seasonings, flavorings, condiments and other staples, you will Ill' able [0 create new dishes or enhance standard ones at a moment's notice.
,! !2UES770NS FOR DISCUSSION .N-> l. What is a staple? Does every kitchen keep the same staples on hand?
Explain your answer. 2 \\fi:I[ arc the differences between an herb and :1 spice? Give an eXlImple of a plant [hat is used as both an herb and II spice. j. If a rt."'C ipe calls for a fresh herb and you only have the herb dried, what do )"ou do? Explain your answer. i. What is the difference between a sachet and a bouquet garnP Identify the ingn..'
began using large sil\"Cr pots instead of tiny china pots. The social custom of aflemoon tea began in the late 1700s, thanks to Anna, Duchess of Bedford. Historians attribule to her the late afternoon ritual of snacking on sandwiches and pastries accompanied by tea. She began the practice in order to quell her hunger pang; betVit>e1l breald"ast and dinner (....'hidl was typically seT\'OO al 9:30 or 10:00 P.M.). E1"Cntually, IMOO distinct types of teatime evolved. Low tea W1lS aristocratic in origin and consisted of a snack of pastries and sandwiches, with tea, served in the late aftemoon as a prelude to the elUJing meal. High tea was bourgeois tn origin, consisting of leftoI"Crs from the typically large middle-class lunch, such as cold meats, bre-.w and cheeses. Iligh tea be<:ame a substitute for the evening meal.
HAPTER
8
RODUCTS
,
,---
=== ~ ===
After srudying this chapter, you wll! be able to: .-'\!l.. <"'\!\.
identify, slore and use a variety of milk-based prodllcLS identify, Slore and serve a variety of fine cheeses
airy prOducts include cow's milk and foods produced from cow's milk such as butte1; yog1ll1, sour cream and cheese. 7be milk of other mammals, namely, goalS, sheep (ewe) and buffaloes, is a/so made into cheeses that are IIsed in commercial fool
seroice operations. Dairy products are extremely versatile al/d art used throughout the kitchen, selved eitber as is or as ingrediellts in everytbingJrom soups and salads to breads and dessel1s. nJey need to be handled with ca re, however.
M ILK .n-, Ewe's milk i.f milil produced by ajeml/le sheep; if has approxilllately 7.9% milk/III, 11.4% milk solid! (llId 80. 7% water. Goat's milk- k milk produced by (I female gat/I; it has approximtltely 4.1% milk/ai, 8.9% milk sofids alld 87%u¥ller. Water buffalo's milk- k milk prodll(:f!ti by {/ jemale /I 'fller bulJillt;; if /xis apprarillwleiy 7.5% milkfill, 10.]% milk solids (/Ild 82.2% waler.
Milk is not only a popular beverage, it is also used in the preparation of man)" dishes. It provides texture, flavor, color and nutritional value for cooked or baked ilems. Indeed, milk is one of the most nutritious foods available, providing proteins, vitamins and minel'Jls (particularly calcium). But milk is aoo highly perishable and an excellent bacterial breeding ground. Care mllst be ex· ercised in the handling and storage of milk and other dairy products. Whole milk-that is, milk as it comes from the cow-consists of water primarily (about 88%). It contains approximately 3.5% milkfat and 8.5% OIher milk solids (prote ins, milk sugar [lactoseJ and minerals). Whole milk is graded A, B or C according to standards recommended by the U.S . Public Health Service. Gr::tdes are assigned based on bacterial count. with Grade A products hllving the lowest cou nt. Grades I3 and C, though still safe and wholesome, are rarely available for retail or commercial use. Fresh whole milk is not available raw, but must be processed as we describe shortly.
Processing Techniques Pasteurization I3y law, ail Grade A milk must be pasteurized prior to retail sale. Pasteuriza· tion is the process of heating milk to a suffiCiently high temperature for a suf· ficient length of time to destroy pathogeniC bacteria . This typiclllly requim holding milk at a temperature of 161°F (72°C) for 15 seconds. Pasteurization also destroys enzymes that cause spoilage thus increasing shelf life. l"Il ilk·s nutritional value is not significantly affected by pasteurization.
Ultra-Pasteurization Ultra-pasteurizll1ion is a process in which milk is heated to a very high tern· perature (275°F/ 135°C) for a very ShOll time (2 to 4 seconds) in order to de· stroy virtually all bacteria. Ultra-pasteurization is most oflen used with whipping cream and individual creamers. Although the process may reduce cream·s whipping properties, it extends its shelf life dramatically.
Ultra High Temperature Processing Ultra high temperature (UHT) processing is a form of ultra-pasteurization in which milk is held at a lemper::tlure of 280°F to 300°F (138°C-i50°C) for 210 6 seconds. It is then packed in sterile containers under sterile conditions and aseptically sealed [Q prevent bacteria from entering the container. Unopenerl
DAIRY PRODUCTS c"'ia.
LlfT milk can be stored without refrigeration for at least three months. AIIhoogb l:HT milk can be Stored unre(rigerated, it should be chilled before sening and stored like fresh milk once opened. UHT processing ma)' give milk J 5Iigl)[l), cooked taste, but it has no significant effea on milk's nutritional \'2Iue Long available in Europe, it has been approved for sale in the United
So,,,
Homogenization Homogenization is a process in which the fat globules in whole milk are reduced in size and permanently dispersed throughout the liquid. This pre\'ems the fat from clumping together and rising to the surface as a layer of cream. Although homogeniz.1tion is nOt required, milk sold commercially is generally homogenized because it ensmes a unifonn consistency, a whiter color and a ocher taste.
Certification Certification is a method of controlling the quality of milk by controlling the condition of the animals from which milk is obtained. Certification is not a true processing technique; rather, it requires frequent veterinary examinations of the cows and health depa rtment inspections of the dairy fam1, the equipment m1 the employees who handle the milk. Pasteurization has replaced the need fey certification, but milk from certified herds is still available in a few areas.
Milk/at Remom/ l1ioIe milk can also be processed in a centrifuge to remove all or a portion rJ. the milkfat, resulting in lowfal milk and skim milk. J.oo.f3t milk is whole milk from which sufficient milkfat has been remo\'ed 10 produce a liquid wilh .5% to 2.0% milkfat. (All lowfat milks must still contain approximately 8.25% milk solids.) Vitamin A is added to lowfat milk to replace that removed along with the milkfat. It wil! be labeled with either the fat cootent or the nonfat percentage. For example, milk containing 1% milkfat mal' be labeled "99% fat free" or " \% lowfat. ~ Skim milk, :lIsa referred to as nonfat milk, has had as much milkfat remol'ed as possible. The fat content must be less than .5%. Skim milk must also contain a! least 8.25% milk solids and be fortified with vitamin A.
Storage Auk! milk should be kept refrigerated at or below 40°F (4°C). Its shelf life is reduced by half for every five-degree rise in temperature above 40°F (4°C). Keep milk containers dosed to prevent absorption of odors and flavors. Freezing is not recommended.
Concentrated Milks Concentr.lIed or condensed milk products are produced by using a vacuum to remm·e all or part of the water from whole milk. The resulting products have a high concentration of milkfat and milk solids and an extended shelf life. Evaporated milk is produced by removing approximmely 60% of the ~'llter from whole, homogenized milk. Evaporated milk must contain a1 least 725% milkfat and 25.5% milk solids. The concentrdted liquid is canned and heal·sterilized. This results in a cooked flavor ancl darker color. Evaporated
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149
150
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CIIAP7'f£R 8
-
IMITATION AND
=== AxrmC/AL
DAIRY PROOUas
Coffee whiteners, imitation sour cream, topping mixes a.nd some '1,hippOO toppings in pressurized cans are made from nondairy products. lhese products usuall}' consist of com syrup, emulsifiers, vegetable falS, coloring agents and artificial flavors. These products are generally less expensil'e and have a longer shelf life Ihan the real dairy products Iher replace, but their fla\'Ors are fl{) match. [miwtion and artificial products may be useful, hO\\'ever, for persons with allergies or on a restricted diet [f ),ou choose to use these products, you cannot claim to be using real dairy products on menus or labels. 'o\nj~
skim milk, with a milkfat content of .5%, is also available. A can of eva!» I
Cream Cream is a rich, liquid milk product containing at least 18% fat. It must be pasteurized or ultra-pasteurized and may be homogenized. Cream has a slight yellow or ivory color and is more viscous than milk. It is used throughout tlr kitchen to give flavor and body 10 sauces, SOllpS and desserts. Whipping cream, containing not less than 30% milkfat, can be whipped into a stiff foam and used in pastries and desserts. Cream is marketed in se\'eral forms with dif· ferent fat contents, as described here. Half·and·half is a mixture of whole milk and cream comaining between 10% and 18% milkfat. It is often served with cereal or coffee , but does not COlI' tain enough fat to whip into a foam. Light cream, coffee cream and table cream are all products with more lhan 18% but less than 30% milkfal. These products are often used in baked goods or soups as well as with coffee, fruit and cereal. tight whipping cream or, simply, whipping c ream, contains between 30% and 36% milkfal. It is gencI
Storage Ultra-pasteurized cream will keep for six to eight weeks if refrigerated. Unwhipped cream should not be frozen. Whipped, sweetened cream can be frozen, tightly covered, for up to three months, then slowly thawed in the
DAIRY PRODUCTS
It'frigerator. Keep cream llway from strong odors and bright lights, as they c:rn adversely affect its Oavor.
Cu/lured Daily Products Cullured dairy products such as yoguo. buttermilk and sour crClIm are pro-duced by adding specific bacterial cultures to fluid dairy products. The bacteria COIll"ert the milk sugar lactose into lactic acid, giving these products their body and tangy, unique flavors. The acid content also retards the growth of undc~ir.tble microorg:lIlismsj thus cultured prodllcls have been used for cenlUTie~ to preselye nlilk. Bunermilk originally referred to the liquid remaining after cream was churned into bUlter. Today, buttermilk is produced by adding a culture (StrepIVCOCCIIS lactis) to fresh. pasteurized skim or lowfat milk. This results in a tan milk with a thick texture. l3uHermilk is most often used as a beverage or in luke
RECIPE 8. 1
CREME FRAiCHE Yield: I rim (500 Ill]) He:lI'}" cream Bultennilk. with actil'e culmres
16 oz.
500 g
1 oz.
30 g
I. Heat the cream (prefernbly not 1IItrn-pasteurized) 10 approximately 100°F
BlOC). 1. Remol·c the cream from the heat and stir in the buttermilk. j. Allow the mixture to sland in a warnl place, loosely covered, until il thicken~. 3pproximately 12 10 36 hours. 4. Chill thoroughly before using. Creme fraiche will keep for up to JO days in thl' refrigerator. .\jIpIIlllm3II' l"ltues per l -oz. (»s) serving; C:llorl~ 90. To t,,1 r..1 10 g. SaIU .... loed fat 6 g, Chok!;. Imlt .1S mg. Sodium 10 mg. Total carbohrdr:ncs I g. Protein 1 g. Vitamin A 10 percent Claims-
ItTI
~
,.;xhum
Yogurt is a thick, tan. custar(]like product made from milk (either whole. Io\\fat or nonfat) cultured with Lactobacilllls bll/SlIriCIIS and StreptOCOCCLIS thmllopbillls. Though touted as a health or diet food, yogurt contains the .",me amount of milkfat as the milk from which it is made. Yogurt may also contain a ,·ariety of sweeteners, flavorings and fOlits. Yogurt is genernll}' eaten b i!.. but may be used in baked products, salad dressings and frozen desserts. 11 is used in man}' Middle E.1Stern cuisines.
, 151
J52 ,
• CIIAPTHR 8
Storage Cultured products should be kept refrigerated at 40°F (4°C) or below. Urm proper conditions, sour cream will last up to four weeks, yogurt up to three weeks and bunermilk up to two weeks. Freezing is not recommended for these produclS, but dishes prepared wilh cultured products genera II}' can be frozen.
Butter Buner is a fatty substance produced by :Igit:lting or churning cream. Its flara is unequaled in sauces, breads and pastries. Butter contains at least 8aJiJ milk· fat, not more than 16% wmer and 2-4% milk solids. It mayor may not contain lidded salt. Buner is firm when chilled :lOd soft :H room temperarure. It melti into a liquid at approximately 98°F (38°C) and reaches the smoke point 31 260°F ( 12rC). Government grading is not ma ndatory, bUI most processors submit their butters for testing. The USDA label on the pllckage assures the buyer that tile butter meets federal standards for the grade indicated: • USDA Grade AA---bliller of superior quality, with a fresh, sweet flavor and aroma, a smooth, creamy texture and good spreadability. • USDA Grade A-butter of very good quality, with a pleasing flavor and fairly smooth texture. • USDA Grade B-blluer of stand:lrd quality, made from sour cream; has an acceptable flavor but lacks the flavor, texture and body of Grades AA and A. Grade B is most oflCn used in Ihe manufactUring of foods. Salted butter is butter with up to 2';% salt added. 111is not only changes the butter·s flavor, il also extends ilS keeping qualities. When using salted butter in cooking or b.1king, the 5.1lt content must be conSidered in the total recipe. Whipped butte r is made by incorporating air into the butter. This increases its volume and spreadability, but also increases the speed with which the butter wil! become r,mcid. Because of the change in density, whipped butter should not be subst itUied in rccipes c:dling for regular butter.
Storage Butter shollid be well wrapped and stored at temperatures betwccn 32°F and 35°F (OOC-2°C). Unsalted butter is besl kept frozen until needed. If well wrapped, frozen buner will keep for up to nine months at a temperature ci O°F (-18°C).
Clarified Buller Unsalted whole buuer is approximately 80% fal , 15% water and 5% milk solids. Although whole buuer can be used for cooking or sauce making, sometimes a more stable and consistent product will be achieved by using butler that has had the water and milk solids removed by a process called clarification.
PROCEDURE FOR CLARU·1'1NG BU'ITER I . Slowly wann the butter in a 5.1UCepan over low heat without boiling or agitation. As the butler melts, the milk solids rise to the top as a foam and
the water sinks to the Ixmom.
illlRr PRODUC7S
153
~ ===================== IJIARGARlNE: FRO"! LABORATORY BENCII 7'0 DINNER l ABI.E
Margarine \\>1IS im'ffited by a French cbtmiSJ. in I~ after N"aplleon III offered a pri1! for the de-.-elopment of a S)l1thetic edible bt Originally piOOuced from animal fat and
milk, margarine is now made almost excluSiltly from l'egetable fats, In 011 fOod alld Cooking, tbe Science aJld li:Jre of tbe KilcbeTl, Harold Mdiee I'eo.tIfIlS the history of margarine. He explains !Ill! mlrprine caught on quickly in Europe
}, j. of,
md America, with large-scale production undelway by 1880. But the American dairy industry and the u.s. gm-emment put up fierce resist:lIIce. First, marg.wne was defined as a bannful drug and its sale restricted, 111en it was heavily taxa!; stores had to be lh);"msed to .sell it and, like alcohol and tobacco. it was bootlegged. The U.S. gO\-enunent refused to purthase it for use by the anned forces. And, in an attempt to hold it to its true colors, some
Sl.1~ did
not allOl\' margarine to be d)'ed )-ellow (animal fats and regeLwJe oils are much paier dIan butter); the d)-e was sold separately and mixed in by the consumer. World War II, \\tJich brought butter rationing, probably did the most to establish margarine's respectability. But it was not until 1967 that yeJ!ow marg.1rine could be sold in \l:ljsconsin.
~llen
the bUller is completely melted, skim the milk solids from the top. \\1ten all the milk solids have been removed, ladle the butterbt into a cil"ln saucepan, being careful to leave the w:lter in the bottom of thc pan. The clarified butter is now ready to use. One pound (454 grnms) of whole hutter will yield approximatcly 12 oun:::es (340 grams) of clarified buner (a yield of 75%).
CiJrified hutter will keep for extended periods in either the freezer or refrigmtor.
Margarine .\!ltg3rine is not a dairy product but is included in this section beClIUSC it is so frt'
NIJJ'RJ770N .r-, [}Jiry products are naturally high in vitamins, minerdls and protein. Often liquid products such as milk are fortified with additional vitamins and minerals. Their fat content varies depending upon the amount of milkfal left after pro'~ing. Specific nutritional values for selected dairy products are found in Table 8.1 .
Skimming milk solids from the surface of melted bUller.
i.:lciling the butterfat into a clean pan.
154
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ClIAPrER 8
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TABLE 8. 1
NUTRITIONAl. VALUES OF DAIRY PRODUcrS PfOlcin
Carbohydnue5
Calories
(g)
(g)
BUllermilk
150 85 100
Heavy whipping cream
821
11 12 12 6.6
Half ;md half Sour cream
315 493
8 8,4 8.1 5 7.2 7.3
Per &ounce (225 g) Serving
\Xl1ole milk (3.3% milkfal) Nonfat milk
Saturnled Fat (g)
Cholesterol
8.2
5.1
0,4
0.3 1.3 55
33 4 9 326 89 102
TOlal Fat (g)
2.2
lOA
88 27.8
9.8
48.2
17.3
30
(mg)
Sodium (mgl
120 126
.,.,..
89 91l 123
The Corinlle T. Netzer I;'IICJdopedia of Food L"tI/lles, 1992
~
NATURAL CHEESES
Cheese (Fr. fromage; It. !romaggio) is onc of the oldest and most widelr used foods known 10 man. 11 is served alone o r as a principal ingredient in or an accompaniment 10 countless dishes. Cheese is commonly used in commercial kitchens, appearing in everything from breakfast to snacks 10 desserts.
Literally hundreds of natural cheeses arc produced worldwide. Although their shapes, ages and flavors vary according to local preferences and tradi· tions, all natural cheeses are produced in the same basic f:lshion as has been used for centuries. Each starts with a mammal's milk; cows, goaLS and sheep are the most commonly used. The milk proteins (known as CtIseill) are coag· ulated with the addition of an enzyme, usually rennet, which is found in calves' stOmachs. As the milk coagulates, it separates into solid curds and liquid whey. After draining off the whey, either the curds are made imo fresh cheese, such as ricotta or cottage cheese, or the curds are further processed by cutting, kneading and cooking. The resulting substance, known as "green cheese,~ is packed into molds to drain. Salt or special baaeria may be added to the molded cheeses, which are then a[[O\ved to age or ripen under em trollecl conditions to develop the desired texture, color and flavor. Cheeses are a product of their environment, which is why most fine cheeses cannot be reproduced outside their native locale. The breed and feed of the milk animal, the wild spores and molds in the air and even the wind currents
TABLE 8.2
.-..
NUTRITIONAL VALUES OF CO,"110N CHEESES
Per l-ounce (28 g) Serving
Protein
Carbohydl"'Jtes
Total F:u
Saturated Fat
Calories
(g)
(g)
(g)
(g)
100 114
.,,.
6.1 7. 1 3.9
0.7 04
8.2 9,4
75
4
6
132 72
2.7 69 8 6
1.2 12. !
5.3 6 0.3 4.2 5,4 2.9 5 4
Blue Cheddar COllage, low fat Feta Goat's milk Mozzarella, pan skim Swiss Processed cheese ( I'ef!lt>ela) The Corilll1e T. Netzer EncyckJpe
110 100 of Food
l'a/lles. 1992
0.5
0.8 1 3
84
4.5 8
7
Cholesterol (mg)
Sodium
21 30 2
396 1-6
2j
316 170 132
n/:l
,..,16 20
(mg)
115
20
410
lJAJRI' PRODUC7S c"e.. J55
a storage area a m affect the manner in which a cheese de\'elops. (Roquefort. for example, develops its distinctive fla\'or from aging in particular caves filled with crosscurrents of cool, moist air.) Some cheeses develop a naTUral rind or surface because of the application of ooaeri:! (bloomy rind) or by repeated washing with brine (washed rind). \lru,t natural rinds may be eaten if desired. Other cheeses are coated with an inedihle wax rind to prevent moisture loss. Fresh cheeses have no rind what-
II!
~...,w
\[oisture and fa t contents are good indicators of a cheese's texture :md shelf life The higher the moisture content, the softer the product and the more pert'h3hle it will be. Low-moisture cheeses may be used for grating :md will keep fer several weeks if properly stored. (Reduced waler activity levels prohibit hacteri~l gro\\1h.) Fat content ranges from low fal (less than 20% fat) to double rrc~m (at least 60% fat) and triple cream (at least 72% fat). Cheeses with a high fat content will be creamier and have a richer flavor and texture th:m lowfat prodUt1S. .\IOSI cheeses contain high percentages of fat and protein. Cheese is :tlso ridl in calcium, phosphoms and vitamin A. As animal products, natural dk:'l.."'!iCS contain cholesterol. Today, many low-fat , even nonflll, processed cheeses are available. Sodium has also been reduced or eliminated from sollle rnOOem products. See Table 8. 2.
Cheese Varieties Cheeses can be dassifk>d by country of origin. ripening methCKI, fat content or texture. Jlere we cl:lssify fine cheeses by texlU re and have adopted five c:lIe!(OIics: fresh or unripened, soft, semi-soft. firm and hard. A sepamte section on goat'&·milk cheeses is also included.
Frrsh or Ul1ripel1ed Cbeeses Fresh cheeses :lre uncooked and unripened. Referred to as f romage bI(lnc or jronlflgejrais in French, they are generally mild and creamy with a tan tangint". TIler should not taste acidic or biner. Fresh cheeses have a moisture canItl1t of 40% to 80% and
== -
==
MAxlNG MOllAREUA.
In Haly. mozzarella is made every day; il is meant to be consumed just as often. Before ~lere was refrigeration, the balls of mozzarella .".~re slored in well water 10 keep ~lem cool, which is IIonere the tradition originated of storing fresh mozzarella in liqUid. Once the milk is coagulated and the curds are cuI, the mass is slowly stirred to enhallIE the whe)'s expulSion. A fev.' hours later, when the curds are m:llure, they are removed from the whey. chopped or shredded and then mixed with hot water. To tesl the exact amounl of maturity, a hillldful of curds is dipped into a bucket of hoI water for 10 seconds. 'Il:'hen the curds are remm'ed. they should be kneaded briefly and then, holding the m:lSS v.-ith two hilllds, it should be pulled and stretched out to determine its maturity. When it is exactly ready 10 be strung, it Cilll be stretched as thin illld opaque as tissue paper. At this pojn~ small amounts o( curd are dumped into a small \"at and stirred with hot water using a paddle. This is knovm as "stringing'" the cheese because as the curds are mixed with the water ~Jey begin to melt somewhat and become stringy. The more the cheese is stirred, the longer the strings are stretched. Eventually, all the string; come together to mm a large mass of satiny-smooth cheese. In ltaliilll. the \Io"urdjiftlre means "to string"; therefore, all ch~ that are strung are members of the pas/a fila/a family. '«'"hen stringing is complete, the cheese is ready to be shaped and hillld-fonned into balls. The balls are tossed immediately into I'ats of cool water so ~' ....ill maintain the desired shapes. When cool, the balls are immersed in brine solution and then wrappa! in parchment paper. PAIJIJ, lJ..\lBERT, owner til0Z7ARFJJA Cal/PAM; DalklS, Texas
156
1"""'2'~
CHAlTERS
Mozztlrelkl
Ricotta
~
flavor is useful in both sweet and s:l\'ory sauces as well as dessellS. It is ahJ eaten plain, with fresh fmi t, or spread on bread and sprinkled with cocoa Il sugar. Mozzarella is a fi rm Italian cheese traditionally made with water buffalo· milk (today, cow's milk is more common) and containing 40% to 45% fat. Mellzarella becomes elastic when melted and is well known as ~ pizza cheese Fresh mozzarella is excellent in salads or topped simply with olive oil an! herbs. It is a very mild white cheese best eaten within hours of producOO!. Commercial mozzarella is rnther bland and rubbery and is beSI reserved fa cooking, for which it may be purchased alre:ldy shredded. Ricotta is a soft Italian cheese, similar to American cOllage cheese, II1:lII from the whey left when othcr cow's-milk cheeses are produced. It contain! only 4% to lcm faL It is white or ivory in color and fluffy, with a small grain and sweet flavor. Ricotta is an importlll1t ingredient in many pasta dishes and desserts.
Soft. Cbeeses
Soft cheeses are charnaerized by their thin skins and creamy centers. They are among the most delicious and popular of cheeses. TIley ripen quickly and are at their pea k for onl~' a few days, sometimes less. Moisture content ranges from 5cm to 75%. Bel paese is a 20th-century Italian creation made front cow's milk and cootaining approximately 50% fat. It is mild and creamy with a fmity flavor. Tht inside is yellowish, and the outside is brown or gmy. Bel paese is excellem fa snacking and melts easily. Brie is a rind-ripened French cheese made with cow's milk and conuining about 60% fat. Brie is made in round, flat disks weighing 2 or 4 pouT"Hk it is coated with a bloomy white rind. At the peak d ripeness, it is creamy :md rich, with a texture th3J oozes. Selecting 11 properly ripened Brie is a matter of judgment lmd experience. Select a cheese that is bulging a bit inside its rind; there should it just the beginning of a brown coloring 00 the rind. If underripe, Brie will be bland with ,I hard, cha lky core. Once the cheese is cut, it will not ripen any further. If ol'er· ripe, Brie will have a brownish rind that ::~:.,;..;............._ _: may be gummy or sagging and wi!! smell strongly of ammonia. The rind is edible, but trim it off if preferred. The classic after-dinner cheese, Brie is also used in Brie soups, sauces and hors d'oeuvres. Boursin is II triple-cream cow's-milk cheese from Frnnce containing approximately 75% fat. Boursin is usually fl avored with peppers, herbs or garlic. It is rindless, with a smooth, creamy texture, and is packed in small, foilwmpped cylinders. Boursin is a good breakfast cheese and a welcome addition to any cheese board. It is also a popular filling for baked chicken. Camembert is a rind-ripened cheese from Frnnce containing approx~ mately 45% fat. &Ivaria also produces :1 Camembert, though of a somewhat lesser quality. Camembert is cre:lmy, like Brie, but milder. It is shaped in small round or oval disks and is coated with a white bloomy rind. Selecting a properly ripened Camembert is similar to selecting a Brie, but Camemben will become overripe and ammoniated even more quickly ,han Brie. Camem· bert is an excellent dessert or llftcr-dinner cheese :tnd goes particularly well with fmiL
IJAlRY PRODUC!S c""2\.
157
~ ====== lEFTOVER CHEESB
disc:J.rd those little leftover bilS 3Ild cI chet-.se lurking in your refrigerator. 1be tag ends of Brie, cheddar, farmer cheese. dlI1\-re, Roquefort, Mozzarella, and scores of mcheesecan be quickly transfonned into a tasty mixture which the thrifty French callfromage fort ("strong Cheese'"). Se-JSOned 'Wilh fresh garlic and a fe\\l splashes of wine, it makes an 3SSe11i1ely flal'ored topping for toast Il thick slices of bread and tastes best when briefly melted under the broiler. To make/roll/age fori, gather together I plOlld of IdtOl"er cheese (3 kinds is enough, 6or \elf!"
pifCtS
7\\ill be C\"eII better). Trim off any mold or l"ery dried out parts from the surface. Toss 3 or 4 peeled dO\~ of garlic into a food processor and process for SC\"era1 seconds until coa~ly chopped. Add the cheese to the garlic along \\ilh 1/2 cup dry white wine and at least I te:JSpoon of freshly ground black pepper. Process until the mixture beo:JmES soft and creamy, about30seconds. RemOl"e the mixture from the processor and tr:msfer it to a crock or row!. Col'er tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate. From
SIDr je,\"}JNS
CIlEEl1:.' PRllff.R,
by Sm'E Jl'.NKINS.
Semi·Soft ebeeses ~i·soft cheeses include man}' mild, buttery cheeses with smooth, sliceable tex1ures. Some semi-soft cheeses are also known as monastery or Trappist chee:.es because their development is traced to monasteries, some recipes havmg originated during the Middle Ages. The moisture content of semi-soft cheeses ranges from 40% to 50%. Doux de Montagne is a cow's-rnilk cheese from France containing approximately 45% fat. PrOOllced in the foothills of the Pyrenees, it is also reft'JTed to as pain de Pyrenees. Doux de j\'lontagne is pale yellow with irregubrholcs and a mellow, sweet, nutty flavor. It is sometimes studded wilh green peppercorns, which provide a tangy flavor contrast. It is usuall}' ~hapt.--d in large, slightl}' squashed spheres and coated with brown \vax. Doux de l'Ilont:lgne is good before dinner and for snacking. Fonlina is :I cow's-milk cheese from Italy's Piedmont region containing :Ipproximately 45% fat. The original, known as fontina Val D'Aosta, h:ls a
I
, • ,
,
." .'/
; , ,
DoII.\· tie MOlllllgne
,
,
158 ,..,.,
CIWl1!II8
crumbly with a very strong, sharp Olvor, TIle milder gorgonzoias arc exceUen with fresh peaches or pears or crumbled in a salad. Gorgonzola is also used in sauces and in the lona COli basilica, a Cllkelike cheese loaf composed ofla)',
Fondue---tl Sum specially llIade u'ilb meileti ~,
uine alld jlil/.orillgs; /!tile" by dipping
piec8s of bread info the boIlI/it/ure uilb kmg
forks,
ers of cheese, fresh basil and pine nuts. Gouda is a Dutch cheese containing approximately 48% fat Gouda is sold in various-sized wheels covered with red or yellow wax. The cheese is yellO'A' with a few small holes and a mild, bunery flavor. Gouda may be sold sooo after production, or it may be aged for several months, resulting in a firrnet more flavorful cheese, Gouda is widely popul:tr for snacking and in fondue , Havarti is a cow's-milk monastel)'-style cheese from Denmark containing 45% to 60% fat. Hav:lrti is :lIsa known :IS Danish TUsH or by the •• .' brand n:lme Dofino. Pale yellow with many • • small, irregular holes, it is sold in small ., rounds, rectangular blocks or loaves. H:lvarti has a mild flavor and creamy tex..: ... ture. It is often flavored with dill, caraway seeds or peppers. Hav:lrti is vcI)' popular for snacking :lnd in &1ndwiches. • Port du SaJut is a monastel)' cow's-milk product from France containing approximately 50% fat. Port du Salut (also known as POrt Salut) is smooth, rich and savol)'. It is shaped in thick Hamrti wheels with a dense, pale }'ellow interior and an edible, bright orange rind. The Danish version is known as Esrom. One of the beSt and most authentic POrt du Sailits has the initials S.A.F. R. stamped on tbe rind. Lesser-quality brands may be bland and mbbety. It is popular for break· fast and snacking, especially with fmit. Roquefort is a blue-vein(.-'d sheep's-milk cheese from France containing approximately 45% fat. One of the oldest cheeses, Roquefort is intensely pungent with a rich, salty flavor and strong aroma. It is a white paste with \'eins of blue mold and a thin natural rind shaped into thick, foil-wrapped cylinders. Roquefort is always aged for at least three months in the limestone caves of Mount Combalou. Since 1926, no prodllCer outside this region can legally use the n:tme Roquefort or even ~ Roquefort-style." Roquefort is an ex· cellent choice for serving before or after dinner and is, of course, essential for Roquefort dressing. Stilton is a blue-veined cow's-milk cheese from Great Britain containing 45% fat. Stilton is one of the oldest and grandest cheeses in the world, It has a white or pale yellow interior with evenly spaced blue veins. Stilton's distinctive f1a\'or is pungent, rich and tangy, combining the beSt of blues and cheddars. It is aged in cool ripening rooms for four to six months to develop the blue veining; it is then sold in tall cylinders with a cmsty, ed· ible rind. Stilton should be wrapped in a cloth dampened with salt water and stored at cool temperatures, but 110t refrigerated. It is best served alone. with plain crdckers, dried fmit or vintage port.
.
,
.
.... ..
..
Blue cheese-I. A 8f1leric term for (lilY cb!ese amini/ling /'isible b/lle-grrell moll41bnl COlitribllte II cbaraclerislic flirt, sharp JUI/'Qr and
aroma; also JmQtI'T' as (/ bilie-reillerl cheese M bleu. 2. Agroup of Roqllifor'-sl),le cheeses mude inlbe UII/letl Slales (llId (;(lIIlIdl' from
roul~
or
l;'O(II's milk rather Ib(lll etl"eS milk alld illjected wNh molds Ilxllform blue-gree/l reillS; ,,/so ImOIl'll as bllle 1110111 clx'f'Sll or bllle-reilit'd clRese.
Stilton
Firm Cheeses Firm cheeses are nOt hard or brittle. Some are close-textured and fla~l', like cheddar; others are dense, holey cheeses like Swiss Emmenthaler. l\llost firm cheeses are actually imitatOrs of these two classics. Their moisture content ranges from 30% to 40%. Cheddars are produced in both North Ameri(:1 and Great Britain. Ameri· can Cheddar is a cow's-milk cheese made primarily in New York, Wisconsin.
DAiRY PRODUC!S <"\!\..
lennont and Oregon, containing from 45% to 50% fa!. The best cheddars are made from raw milk and aged for several months. (Raw milk may be ~ in the United States provided the cheese is then aged
•
•
159
160
_.
CIW'T!~
8
wheels or loaves coated with dark wax. ':Jack- is often flavored with peppm or herbs and is good for snacking, sandwiches and in Mexican dishes. ~'. aged Jack develops a tough, wrinkled brown rind and a rich, firm yellow jn. terior. It has a nutty, sharp fl:lvor and is dry enough fo r grating. Provolone is a cow's-milk cheese from southern ital}' containing appron. mately 45% fat. Provolone dolce, aged only two months, is mild, with 3 _-...... smooth texture. Provolone picctlllle, aged up to six momhs. is stronger and somewhat flaky or stringy. Smoked provolone is also popular, especially for snacking. Provolone is shaped in \'arious ways, from huge salamis to plump spheres to tiny piglets shaped by hand. it is excellent in sandwiches and for cooking. and is often used for melting and in pizza and pasta dishes.
f/ard Cbeeses Hard cheeses are not simply cheeses that have been allowed to dry out. H:lther, they are carefully aged for extended peri~ and have a moisture content of about 3006. Hard cheeses are most often used for grating; the best flavor will come from cheeses grated as needed. Even the finest hard cheeses begin to lose their flavor within hours of grating. The most famous and popular of the hard cheeses are those from Italy, where they are known as grallQ. Hard cheeses can also be sen'ed as a t:.ble cheese or with a salad. Asiago is a cow's-milk cheese from Italy containing approximately 30% fat After only one year of aging, Asiago is sharp and nutty with a cheddarlike tex· ture. If aged for two years or more, Asiago becomes dry, brittle and suitable for grating. Either version should be an even white to pale yellow in color \\itb no dark spols, cracks or strong aromas. It is sold in small wheels and keeps for long periods if well wrapped. Asiago melts easily and is often used in cooking. Parmigiano-Reggiano (Parmesan) is a cow's-milk cheese made e.xdu· sively in the region ncar Parma, italy, containing from 32% to 35% fat. Parmi· giano-Reggiano is one of the world's oldest and most widely copied cheeses. Used primarily for grating and cooking, it is rich , spicy and sharp with a golden interior and a hard oily rind. It should not be overly salty or bitter. Reggiano. as it is known, is produced only from mid-April to mid-November. [t is shaped into huge wheels of about 80 pounds (36 kilos) each, with the name stenciled reo peatedly around the rind. Imitation Parmesan is produced in the United States, Argentina and elsewhere, but none cao match the dist inctive flavor of freshly grated Reggiano. Pccorino Romano is a sheep's-milk cheese from central :md southern Italy containing approximately 35% fat. Romano is very brittle and sharper than other grating cheeses, with a ~sheepy~ tang. Its light. grainy interior is whiter than Parmesan or Asiago. It is packed in large cylinders wilh a rei· low rind. Homano is often substituted for, or combined with, Parmesan in cooking. but it is also good eaten with olives, sausages and red wine.
Prov%ne
Asit/go
Goaf's-Jlfilk Cbeeses
'. P(INllig i(lIlO·Reggi(lIlO (P(lrmesall)
Because of their increasing popularity, cheeses made from goat's milk deserve a few words of their own, AI· though goats give less milk than cows, their milk is
DAlRYPRODUClS ~,
igher in f:u and protein and richer and more concentrated in flavor. Cheeses nude with go:\('s milk have a sharp, tangy flavor. They may range in texture froo1 I'CI)' soft and fresh to very hard, depending on agc. Chevre (French for ~goat ") refers to sIT.all, soft, creamy ch(.>eses produced in a variety of sllllpes: cones, dL<;ks, pyramids or logs. Chevres are ritro C03ted with ash, herbs or seasonings. l11ey arc excellent for cookg and complement a wide varicty of flavors. Unfonunatel}', they have a ,rm shelf life, perhaps only two weeks. Cheese lal:x:led pllrcbet'l"e must ~ made with )000/0 goat 's milk, while others may be a mixture of cow's wi goat's milk. The finest goal's-milk cheeses usually come frOIll France. Preferred IY-Jn
PROCESSED CHEESES .n-, Pasteurized processed cheese is made from a combination of aged and green cheeses that are mixed wilh emulsifiers and flavorings, IXlsteurized and IXJlU1'd into molds to solidify. j\'!anufacturers can thus produce cheeses with consistent textures and flavors. Processed cheeses arc commonly used in food \t'l\'ice operations becalLse they are less expensive than natural cheeses, And, ~use they will nOt age or ripen, their shelf life is greatly eXlencled. Nlltri1iooally, processed cheeses generally contain less protein, calcium and vitamin .\ lnd more sodium Ihan namral cheeses. Processed cheese food cont:lins less natural cheese (but at least 51 % by IlCight) and more moisture than regular processed cheese. Often vegetable 00s and milk solids are added, making cheese food soft and spreadable. Imitmion cheese is usually manufactured with dairy byproducts and soy products mixed with emulsifiers, colorings and flavoring agents and enzymes . ..IJthough considerably less expensive than natural cheese, imitation cheese lrods to be dense and mbbery, with lillIe flavor other than thaI of salt.
====== ~
======
.v,ER/CAN CHEESE PRODUCTION
The 6!S1 cheese factory in lhe United States in I8S1 in Oneill:! County, New York. Ikrklmer COOnty, which adloln~ Olll!iua Coon~: soon became the center of the Ameri,~built
can cheese industry and remained so for the Ile);t 50 )t3IS. [)Uring Ihis time, the largesl cbee;e mmt in the world was al Ultle Falls, ~ York, v.i\eTe farm·produced cheeses and dfeses from more tilan 200 factories were Q1 AI the tum d the century. as New York's ~Iation increased. tI\eTC was a correspondIng incre:lSe in demand for !luld milk. Because
d1i!)meJ1 could recei\'e more money for fluid lr.ilk Ihan for cheese, cheese production declined.
Although New York still produces some outstanding cheddars, the bulk of the AmeriC1l1 cheese industry gradually mowd westward, e'o'eOluaily settling in Wisconsin's rich f~mllands. The United States is now the \\OrId"s largest manufacturer of cheeses, producing nearly twice as much as its nearest competitor, France.
GOtII's Milk C/Jeeses
161
162
CHAP'/'l:'R 8
SERVING CHEESES
=== ~ CIIWE TERJIINOL{)GY
The following !enm often appear on cheese labels and mal' help )·01.1 identi~' or appreciate nell' or unfamiliar cheeses: Affine-French teml for a \\"3Shed-rind cheese.
Bleil-French !eml for blue. Britjlfe or brltjuelle-refers to a group of French brick-shaped cheeses. BI""OSSe-French ternl for cheeses that are brushed during ripening. OIIJrIl-italian for goat's-milk cheese.
DlmL--French tenn for square, nat cheeses. Cel/dre-French tcnll for cheeses ripened in ashes. Couflllll-French for "t!O\\ing.·' used to de-
scribe Brie, Camembert and other cheeses when their interiors ooze or now.
Perme or ferlllier- French ternl for fannproduced cheeses. Fromagt ii larImer- French
tenn for
melting cheese, often applied cheeses.
processed
\0
Cheeses mar be served at any time of day. [n Nonhern Europe, they arc c0mmon for breakfast; in Great Britain, they are a staple at lunch. Cheeses are widely used for sandwiches. snacks and cooking in America, and they are often served following the entree or instead of dessert at foml:!l dinners. The flavor and texture of natural cheeses :Ire best at room temperature. So, except for fresh cheeses, all cheeses should be removed from the refrigerat<X 30 minutes to an hour before service 10 allow them to come to room telllpt'1":!lure. Fresh cheeses. such as cottage and crea m. should be eaten chilled. Any sele<:lion of fine cheeses should include a variety of flavors and tex· tures: from mild to sharp, from soft to crellny to firm. Use a varielY of Sh3~ ,md colors for visual appeal. Do not precut the cheeses as this on l~' cauSt"it them to become dry. Prm'ide an adequate supply of serving knives so tlut slronger-flavored cheeses will nOt combine with and overpower milder one:;. Fine cheeses are beSt appreciated with plain bread and crackers, as s:llted or seasoned crackers Gill mask the cheese·s tl:l\'or. Noncilms fmits are also a met" accompaniment.
Storage r-,·[ost cheeses are best kepI refrigerated, well Wr.IPped to keep odors Ollt ~nd moisture in . Firm and hard cheeses Gill be kepI for several weeks: fresh cheeses will spoil in 7 to 10 d:IYs because of their high moisture coment. ~ cheeses that h:lve become h:lrd or dry may slill be gr.lted for cooking or bak· ing. Freezing is possible but not recommended beGtlIse it ch:l11ges the cheese'l texlure, making it me::dy or tough.
Al1as-Outch for cllt'C!ie. f..l1se.---(ienrum for cllt'C!ie. IflH ertf- French tenn
for raw milk.
wi/erie or failier- French for dairy: :!p-
peltS on factory-made cheeses. Ali chetre-a French product so labeled
must colllain at least 25 percent gool's milk. (kI-Sc:mdina\ian tenn for cheese. Pwrino-Jtalian teml for all shccp·s-milk
d"",,.Qlleso-Spanish teml for cheese. Rope-French ternl applied 10 cheeses Ihat are suilable for graling. used by the French, Italians :md Swiss 10 refer to mountain cheeses, panicu[arl)' from the P)"rerJee; or Samie regions. 7/)lIIe or lomme-teml
1)rophi/e----one who lares cheese. laccillo--ltalian tem} forco",o"s-milk cheese.
CiJeese/xxml Set for Sunlice
lJAlRI' PRODUClS
--.a. 163
~ W,NE AND CHEESE:
ClASSIC CO."BINAIIONS
Some cheeses are delicious \lith beers or ales. Others are best \lith strong coITee or apple cide~ and nothing accompanies a cheddar cb:ese sandIIich as well as ice
{jfONCLUSION
port. Camembert with Bordeaux, Roquefort with Sauternes and English cheddar \lith Burgundy. Although taste preferences are an indi\idual malter, cheese-\\-;ne marriages follow two schools of thought either pair likes or pair opposites. Pairing like lIith like is Simple: Cheeses are often best seT\W with \lines produced in the same region. For example, a white burgundy such as Montrachel would be an excellent choice for cheeses from Burgundy; and goat cheeses from the Rhone Valley go well with
.Jrr-,
Dairy products are versatile foods used throughout the kitchen. TIley may be served as is or incorporated into many dishes, including soups, 5.1UCeS, entrees, breads and desserts. Fine natural cheeses are useful in prepared dishes but are most important for buffets, as the cheese course during a meal or whenever cheese is the primary ingredient or dominant flavor. Dairy products spoil easily and must be handled and stored properly.
cqj,UESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION I.
2.
3. 4. 5.
Wh~t
.Jrr-,
is milkfat. and how is it used in classifying milk-based products? If a recipe calls for whole milk and you have only dried milk, what do you do? ~plain your answer. Wh~t is clarified butter, and when is it used? Describe the procedure for clarifying buller. The texture and shelf life of cheese depend on what two f,lClors? Cheeses are calegorized as fresh, SOfl, semi-soft , firm and hard. Give two examples of each, and explain how Ihey are generally used.
\lines of thai region. Hearty Italian \\-;nes such as Chianti, Barolo and Valpo[icelJa are delicious with Italian cheese-gorgonzola, pro\'Olone, taleggio. And a dry, aged Monterey Jack is perhaps the perfect mate for California linfande1. Opposites do attract, however. Sweet wines such as Sauternes and Ge\l-ilrztramioer go \\-'ell with sharp, langy blues, especially Roquefort. And light, sparkling \lines such as Champagne or Spanish Ca\'a are a nice complimelllio rich, creamy cheeses like Brie and Camembert.
PART THREE
OOKING
L earning to cook is not simply a mat;er of following recipes. You must understand and appreciate why and how chemical and physical reactions occur in foods, why foods respond to heat the way they do and which foods re,pond best to panicular cook ing techniques. You must also be aule 10 identify the foods being used. The following chapters present this information; each chapler is devoted to a specific categolY of food. A chapter on deep-frying is included in this section because the principles and techniques discussed the re apply to a wide rariety of foods.
HAPTER
. . -" RINCIPLES .
OF ~
OOKING
/
=== -
==
After studying this chapter, you will
be able ~
.-'\!\..
10:
understand how heal is transferred (0 foods through conduction, convection and radiation understand how heat affects foods
~ understand the basic principles
of various cooking methods
\
ooking can be defined as the Irafts/er of energy from a heat source to a food. 7bis energy alters the food 's molecular slnIClure, cbanging its textlire,jlavor, aroma and appearance. 81ft why is food cooked at all? The obViOUS answer is that cooking makes food taste better. Cooking also destroys undesirable microorganisms alld
makes foods easier 10 ingest and digest . To cook foods successfully, you must first understand the ways in which heat is trans/erred: conduction, convection and radiation You should also understand what the application oj heat does to the proteins, sligars, starches, water and fats in foods. Perhaps most important, you must understand the cooking metbods used to transfer heat: broiling, gn'fling, roasting and baking, sauteing, pan-fiying, deep{rying, poaching, simmering, boW'/g. steaming, braising and steWing. Each method is used for many t)~ offood, so you will be applying one or more of them eve,y time y(W cook. The cooking method you select gives thefillished product a spe. cific texture, appearance, aroma and flavor. A thorough uuderstanding of the basic procedures involved in each cooking method helps you produce comistent, high-quality products. This chapter discusses each of the cooking methods in general terms without applying them to any specific food. \Ve will disCl/.ss these methods again in more detail as they are Llsed in the follOWing chapters.
HEAT TRANSFER ..N-. Heat is a type of energy. When a substance gets hot, its molecules h:lVe absorbed energy, which causes the molecules to vibrate rapidly, expand and bounce off one another. As the molecules move, they collide with nearby mol. ecules, causing a transfer of heat energy. The faster the molecules within a substance move, the higher its temperature. This is true whether the substance is air, water, an aluminum pot or a sirloin steak. Heat energy may be transferred to foods via conduction. convention or ra. diation. Heat then travels through foods by conduction. Only heat is transferred-cold is simply the absence of heat, so cold cannot be transferred from one substance to another.
Conduction Conduction is the most straightforward means of heat transfer. It is simpl}' the movement of heat from one item to another through direct contact. For ex· ample, when the flame of a gas burner touches the bonom of a saute pan, heat is conducted to the pan. TIle metal of the pan then conducts heat to the surface of the food lying in that pan.
oth~'
Some maleri,\s conduCI heal ben" than is a ben" conducto, ct'heat than air. This explains why a potato cooks much faster in boiling water don in an oven, and why you cannot place your hand in boiling water at a !mpt'rarure of 212°F OOOOe), but can place your pand, at least very briefly, dO a 400°F (2()()oC) oven. Generally, metals are good conductors (as discussed in Chapler ; , Tools and Equipment, copper and aluminum are the best ronduClOrs), while liquids and gases are poor conductors. Conduction is a relatively slow method of heat transfer because there must
be physical contact
10
transfer energy from one molecule to adjacent mole-
rules. Consider what happens when a metal spoon is placed in a pot of sim·
mering soup. At first the spoon handle remains cool. Gradually, however, heat ual"els up the handle, making il warmer and warmer, until it becomes too hot to touch. Conduction is important in all cooking methods because it is responsible for tre movement of heat from the surface of a food to its interior. As the molerules near the food 's exterior gather energy, they move more and more Ilpidly. As they move, they conduct heal to the molecules nearby, thus transferring heat through the food (from the exterior of the item to the interior). In conventional heating methods (nonmicrowave), the heat source causes ftxxj molecules to react largely from the surface inward so that layers of mol· rrules heat in succession. This produces a range of temperatures within the ftxxj, which means that the outside can brown and form a crust long before !he interior is noticeably wanner. That is why a steak can be fully cooked on !be outside but still rare on the inside.
Convection Com-ection refers to the transfer of heat through a fluid, which may be liq· uid or gas. Convection is aaually a combination of conduaion and a mLxing in which molecules in a fluid (whether air, water or fa t) move from a warmer Mea to a cooler one. There are twO rypes of conveaion: natural and me· chanical. Narural convection occurs because of the tendency of warm liquids and gases to rise while cooler ones fall. This causes a constam natural circulation of heat. For example, when a pot of slock is placed over a gas burner, the molecules at the bonom of the pot are warmed. TIlese molecu les rise while cooler, heavier molecules sink. Upon reaching the pot's bottom, the cooler IOOlerules are warmed and begin to rise. This ongoing cycle creates currentS within the stock, and these currents distribute the heat throughout the Stock. Mechanical convection relies on fans or stirring 10 circulate heat more quickly and evenly. TIlis explains why foods heat faster and more evenly ",-hen stirred. Convection ovens are equ ipped with fans 10 increase the eircu· btion of air currents, thus speeding up the cooking process. But even con· \·f1\lional ovens (that is, not convection ovens) rei}, on the natural circulation patterns of heated air 10 transfer heat energy to items being baked or roasted.
Radiation l"nlike conduction and convection, radiation does not require physical con· between the heat source and the food being cooked. Instead, energy is Innsferred by waves of heat or light striking the food. Two kinds of radiant heat are used in the kitchen: infr:.lred and microwave. Infrared cooking uses an electric or ceramic element healed to such a high It'lTlperaturc that it gives off waves of radiant heat that cook the food. Radiant heat waves travel at Ihe speed of light in any direction (un!ike conveaion heat,
13((
PRINCIPIJiS OF COOKlNG c""'\!\.
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I NDllCTION--
Induction cooking uses a special induction coil placed below the sto\~ top's surface in combination with specially designed cookware made of C3SI. iron or magnetic stainless steel. The coil generates a magnetic current so that the cookware Is heated rapidly 111th magnetic friction. lIeat energy is then transferred from the cookware to the focxl by conduction. The cooking surface, which is made of a solid ceramic material, remains cool. Only the coolW:lre and its contents get hot. Induction cooking is a rel:lIh~l y new process, more popular in Europe than the United States. But it is gaining acceptance in professional kitchens because of the speed with IITIich foods can be heated lnd the ease of cleanup.
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Arrows indicate beat /XII/ems (Iliring conductioll, CQIl/.Y!Clioll and radiation,
which only rises) until they are absorbed by a food. Infrared cooking is c0mmonly used with toasters and broilers. The glowing coals of a fire are anOlher example of rad ia!1t heat. Microwave cooking relies on radiation generated by a special oven \0 penetrate the food , where it agitates water molecules, cre:lting friaion and heat. This energy then spreads throughout the food by conduction (and ~' com'ection in liquids). Microwave cooking is much faster than other metholb because energy penetrates the food up to a depth of several centimeters, seI. ting all water molecules in motion at the same time. Heat is generated quick~' lind uniformly throughout the food. Microwave cooking does nOt brown foods. however, and often gives meats a dry. mushy texture, making microwal'e ovens an unacceptable replacement for traditional ovens. Because microwave radiation affects only water molecules, a completdr waterless material (such as a plate) will not get hot. An}' warmth felt in a plate used when microwaving food results from heat being conducted from the (00:1 to the plate. Microw
THE EFFEC'rs OF HEAT J'!J""-. Foods are composed of proteins, carboh),drates (starches and sugars), waler and fa ts, plus smallllmOunts of minerals and vitamins. Changes in shape, texture. color and flavor of foods may occur when heat is applied to each cI these nutrients. By understanding these changes and learning to control them.
PRINCIPLES OF COOJ(]/I'G
roo will be able to prepare foods with the characteristics desired. Although mlumes are wrillen on these subjects, it is sufficient for you to know the folm'ing processes as you begin your study of cooking.
Proteins Coagulate The prorw:r term for the cooking of proteins is coagulation. Proteins are large, COOIplex molecules found in every living cell, plant as well as animal. Coagublion refers to the irreversible tl"Jnsformation of proteins from a liquid or semilKfuid state to a solid state. As proteins cook, they lose moisture, shrink and t.!rome finn. Common examples of collgulation are the firming of meat fibers during cooking, egg wilites changing from a clear liquid to a white solid when !le:tted and the sett ing of the stmcture of wheat proteins (known as gluten) in bread during baking. Most proteins complete coagulation at 160°F to 185°F 1"l'C-8;'C).
Starches Gelatinize Gelatinization is the proper term for Ihe cooking of starches. Starches are romplex carbohydrates present in plants and grains such as potatoes, wheat, fix and com. \':then a mixture of starch and liquid is heated. remarkable changes occur. TIle slJlrch granules absorb water, causing them to swell. soften 2nd clarify slightly. The liquid visibly thickens because of the water being al:>50Ibed into the starch granules and the granules themselves swelling to ocrupy nnre space.
Gelatinization occurs grddually over a range of temperarures-15QOF to 112"F (66°C-lOO°C}--depending on the type of starch used. Starch gelatiniza-
\ixlaffeas nOt only sauces or liquids to which starches are added for the express purpose of thickening, but also any mixture of starch and liqUid that IS healed. For example, the flour (a starch) in cake bailer gelatinizes by absorbing the water from eggs, milk or other ingredients as Ihe bailer bakes. This CIU5eS pan. of the firming :tnd drying associated with baked goods.
Sugars Caramelize The process of cooking sugars is properly known as caramelization. Sugars are simple carbohydrates used by all plant.') and animals !O store energy. As sugars cook, they gradually turn brown and ch:tnge fl avor. Caramelized sugar is used in many sauces, candies and desserts. But caramelized sugar is also partly responsible for the flavor and color of bread cmsts and the browning of I1\t'aIS and vegetables. In fact. it is the process of caramelization thaI is reSf()I\Sible for most flavors we associate with cooking. Sucrose (common table sugar) begins 10 brown at about 338°F 070°C). The naturally occurring sugars in other foods such as maltose, lactose and fructose also caramelize, but at varying temperatures. Bec'duse high temperatures are required for browning (that is, caramelizing). most foods will brown only on the outside and only through the application of dl)' heat. Because water can001 be heated above 212°F OOO°C), foods cooked with moist-heat methods do 001 get hot enough to caramelize. Foods cooked with dry-heat methods, including those using fats , will reach the high temperatures at which browning ocru•.
Water Evaporates .-\l! foods contain some water. Some foods, especially eggs, milk and leafy veg-
etables, are almost entirely water. Even as much as 7;% of raw meat is water. As the internal temperature of :1 food increases, waler molecules move faster
. 171
172 ,"""
CIWffR 9
and faster unnl the water turns to a gas (steam) and vaporizes. This evapontion of water is responsible for the drying of foods du ring cooking.
Fats Melt Fat is an energy source for the plant or animal in which it is stored. Fats 3ft sm()(){h, greasy substances that do not dissolve in water. Their texture variel from very fi rm to liquid. Oils are simply fats that remain liq uid at room temperature. Fats melt when heated; that is, they gradually soften, then liqu~· Fats will not evaporate. Most fats can be heated to very high temperatures witho ut burning, so they can be used as a cooking medium to brown foods.
COOKING M ETHODS
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Foods can be cooked in air, fa t, water or stellnt. 'n lese are collectively knowlI as cooking media . There are twO genera l types of cook ing methods: dl)' heal and moist heat. Dry-heat cooking me thods are those using air or fat. They are broilin& grilling, roasting and baking, sautcing, pan-frying and deep-frying. FO<Xi:s cooked using dry-heat cooking method s have a rich flavor caused by browning. Moist-heat cooking methods are those using waler or steam. They are poaching, simmering, boiling and steaming. Moist-heat cooking methods art' used to e mphasize the natural flavors of food. Other cooking methods employ a combination of dry- and moist-heat cook· ing methods. The twO mOst Significant of these combination cooking methods are braising and stewing.
TABLE
9.1 .-.
Method
CooKING MhTIlODS
Medium
Equipment
Dry-Heat Cooking Methods
Broiling
Air
Grilling Roasting Baking Sauteing Part-fl)'ing Deep-frying
Air Air Air F'I F'I F'I
Overhead broiler, salamander, rotisserie Grill Oven Oven Sto\·e Sto\'e, tilt skillel Deep-fat fryer
Moist-Heat Cooking Methods
Poaching
water or (){her liqUid
Simmering Boiling Steaming
Waler or Olher liquid Waler or Other liquid Steam
Stove, oven, sleam-jacketed kenle, tilt skillet Siove, steam-jacketed kenle, till skillet Siove, steam-jacketed kellle, lill skilkt Slove, convection steamer
Combination Cooking Methods
i3r:aising Slewing
Fat'then liquid Fat then liqUid
StQ\'e (and oven), tilt skillet ' SIO\'C (and oven), tilt skillet
PRINCIPlES OF COOJ<JNG C""\!\..
173
urn of these cooking methods can be applied to a wide varic:y of foodsreus. fish, vegetables and even pastries. Here, we discuss only the general dwaneristics of these cooking methods. Detailed procedures for applying b' methods to specific foods are found in subsequent chapters.
Dry-Heat Cooking Methods Cooking by dry heat is the process of applying he::1t either directly, by sul));'(tmg the food to the heat of a flame , or indire<.1ly, by surrounding the food .tIt heated air or healed fal.
Broilillg hling uses radiant heat from an overhelld source to cook foods. 111e temp:r.iUlre al the heat source can be as high as 2000°F (t093°C). The food to be broiled is placed on a preheated metal gr.ue. Radiant heat from overhead tooIis the food, while the hot grate below marks it with allraClive cross-hatch amb. Delicate foods that may be damaged by being placed directly on a metal W3\C or foods on which cross-hatch marks are not desirable may be placed on I prehe:lIed heat-proof platter then placed under the broiler. Cooking wi11take pbce through indirect heat from the preheated planer as well as from Ihe eliR'CI he'Jt from the broiler's overhead heat source.
eriDillg Although similar to broiling, grilling uses a heat source locatec beneath the cooking surface. Grills may be elcelric or gas, or they can burn wood or charlUll. which will add a smoky flavor to the food. Specific woods such as mesquite, hickory or vine clippings can be used to create special flavors. Grilled foods are oflen identified by crosshatch markings. Figure 9.2 shows the cttrt'CI procedure for poSitioning foods on the grill to create these markings. 1YnE9.2 Procedll re/or Creatillg Crosshatch Markillgs ~------------~
[nl I
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I· '. ,.~ULI ~. l. Decide which side of the grilled
food will be presented face up to the customer. Place the food on the hot grill with lhis side facing down. [f the item is oblong. place it at a 4S-degree angle to the bars on the cooking gr::tte. Cook long enough for the food to develop dark charred lines where it touches the grate.
2. Rotate the food 90 degrees and allow it to cook long enough for me grates to char it to the same extent as in step I.
3. Turn the food over and finish cooking il. It is usually unnecessary to create the crosshatch markings on the reverse side since this will not be seen by the customer.
174
C!WTEH 9
Roasting and Baking Roasting and baking are the processes of surrounding a food with dry, heated air in a closed environment TIle term roasting is usually applied to mea:> and poUII!)" while baki"g is used when referring to fish , fruiLS, vegetabld starches, breads or pastry items. Helt is transferred by convection to the food'l surface, and then penetrates the food by conduction. The surface dehydrates. and the food browns from caramelil.:llion, completing the cooking process. Sauteing
Sauteing is a dry-heat cooking methoo that uses conduction to transfer heI from a hOI saute pan to food wilh the :lid of a small amounl of fat. He:!1 thee penetrates the food through conduction. High temperatures are used to saute. and the foods are usually cut inlo small pieces to promote even cooking. To saute foods properly, begin by heating a Saute pan on the stove top, then add a small amount of fa!. The fat should jusl cover the bottom of the pan. Heat the fat or oil 10 the point where it JUSt begins to smoke. The food to be cooked should be as dry as possible when it is added to the pan 10 promote browning and to prevent excessive spauering. Place the food in the pan in a single laye! The heat should be ad justed so that lhe food cooks thoroughly; it should nOlIr so hot that the oUlSide of the food burns before the inside is cooked. TIle {{,OJ should be turned or tossed periooically to develop the proper color. I2rger ittw should be (urned using tongs without piercing the surface. Smaller ilems are often turned by using the s.1Uleuse's sloped sides 10 flip them back on top of themselves. When tossing saut[>e<] focx1s, keep the pan in contact with the heat SOlIJ'(t as much as possible [ 0 prevent it from cooling. Sauteing sometimes includes the preparation of a sauce directly in the pan after the main item has been remol'ed Stir-frying is a variation of SJ.lIICin,lt. A wok is used instead of a saute pan; the curved sides and rounded bonom of the wok diffuse heal and facilitate tossing and stirring. Otherwise, stir-frying procedures are the same as those outlined for S3uteing and witl nOI be discussed separately here. Pan-Fryling
Pan-frying shares similarities with both sauteing and deep-f!)'ing. It is a dry· heat cooking method in which heal is transferred by conduction from the pan to the food, using a moderate amount of fat. Heat is also transferred to the food from the hot fat by convection. Foods to be pan-fried are usually coated in breading. This forms a seal that keeps the food moist and prevents the 00: fat from penetrating the food causing it to become greasy. To pan-fry foods properly, first heat the fat in a saute pan. Use enough fat so thai when the food to be cooked is added, the fat comes one third to one half way up the item being cooked. TIle fat should be at a temperature somewhat lower Ihan that used in sauteing; it should not smoke blll should be hot enough so that when (he food is added it crackles and spatters from the rapid vapor· ization of moisture. If the temperature is too low. the food will absorb excessiw amountS of fat; if it is too high. the food will bum on the olllside before the iD(erior is fully cooked. When the food is properly browned on one side, tum i! without piercing it, using tongs. Always turn the food away from you 10 pren!!lI being burned by any fat that may splash. When the food is fully cooked, remOlt it from the pa:t, drain it on absorbent paper and serve it immediatel},. Deep-Frying
Deep-frying is a dry-heat cooking methoo that uses convection to transfer heal 10 food submerged in hot fat. Hem then penetrates the food, cooking the in-
PRINClPLES OF COOK1NG ItOOr through cond'lction. Foods 10 be deep-fried are usually fi rst coated in littt'T or breading. 111is preserves moisture and prevents the food from ab«bing excessive quamities of fat. Deep-fried foods should cook thoroughly hiIc del'eloping an attractive deep golden-brown color. Foods to be deepfri.'d should be of a size and shape that allows them to no.1t freely in the fat. Today. most deep-frying is done in specially designed commercial fryers. h deep-fal fryers have built-in thermostats, making temperature control I!lte precise. To deep-fry food, first heat the fa t or oil to tempcmtures be~ 325°F and 37;oF (I6O"C-19QOC). Slowly place the food in the fat, where ~ lhould float freely. Use lOngs to tum it if necessary. When the food is done, it'IlII)\'e it from the fa l, drdin il on absorbent paper and serve it immediately .
.lfoisl-Heat Cooking Methods Cooking lI'ilh moist heal is Ihe process of applying heat to food by submergIll!: il directly into a hal liquid or by exposing il to steam.
Ft>lcbil/g Pooching is a mOist-heat cooking method that uses convection to tr
Pot/ching
Iimmerillg 'unnlCring is another moist-heat cooking method Ihm uses com'eclion to transfer ht-Jt from a liquid to a food. For simmering, the food is submerged in a liqui! held 3t tcmpernturcs between t8;OF and 20;oF (8;°C-96°C). Because simmering tempernturcs are slightly higher than those used for poach ing, there -hould be more action on the liquid's surface, with a few air bubbles breakm~ through. :h with poaching, the liquid used for simmering has a great effect on the fooh tlJ\'or. Be sure to use ;1 well-navored stock or broth and to :ICld mire[K>ix, hl!rbs and seasonings as needed. Simmered foods shou ld be moist and It'!) tender.
Simmering
l/Qilillg ~ltling i!;
another moist-heat cooking method that uses the process of convecto transfer heat from a liquid to a food, Boiling uses large amounts of r:lpidly hubbling liquid to cook foods. nle turbulent w:lters anC the relalil'ely hl~ temperatures cook foods more quickly than do poaching or simmering. Fl'\I' foods, however, are cooked by tnle boiling. fo. lost -boiled- meats are actu-
tHIfl
Boiling
175
176 ""'. CIW'l'FJI 9
TABLE
9.2
J'r> MOI,,·HEAT COOKI NG Mh, llODS Liquid's
;'Ietnod
Tcmpernture
Liquid's Condition
u,,"
Poaching
160-18O"F 71-82 c C
Liquid moves slightly but no bubhles
Eggs. fish. fruits
Simmering
IS5-20;°1' 85-96°C
Small bubbles break through
Meats, stews, chkkm
the liquid's surface
Boiling Steaming
2 12°F
lOoDe 212°P or higher 100°C or higher
large bubbles and rapid
Vegetables, paSl3
OlO\'Cmem
Food is in contact only with the steam generated by a
Vegetables, fish. shellfish
boiling liquid
ally simmered. Even ~ hard-boiled" eggs are really only simmered. Starches SId as pasta and pot:lIoes aTC among the only types of food that are Intiy boiled. Under normal atmospheric pressure at sea level, water boils at 212°F (IMl The addition of other ingredients or a change in atmospheric pressure can chan~ the boiling point, however. As altilUde increases, the boiling point decreases D:cause of the drop in atmospheric pressure. For eve!)' 1000 feet above sea lent the boiling point of water drops 2°F (J oC). In the mile-high city of Denver, foro:· ample, water boils at 203°F (95°C). i3ecause the boiling temperJture is lower.i will take longer to cook foods in Denver than in, for example, fo.'liami. TIle addition of alcohol also lowers the boiling point of water because alcohol boils at about 175°F (80°C). [n COntrast, the addition of s:llt, sugar a other substances raises the boiling point slightl}'. TIlis means that foods cooked in sailed water cook faster because the boiling point is one or two ~ higher than normal.
Steaming Steaming is a moist-heat cooking method that uses the process of convection to transfer heat from the steam to the food being cooked. The food to be steamed is placed in a basket or rack alx)Ve a boiling liquid. The food should nO( toucb the liquid; it should be positioned so that the steam coin circulate around it ,\ lid should be placed on the steaming pot to tJ"'dP the steam and also create I sligh! pressure within the pot that speeds the cooking process. The liquid used to steam the food is sometimes used to make a sauce served with the item. Another type of steaming uses a convection steamer. Convection stea~ use pressurized steam to cook food very quickly in an enclosed chamber. C0nvection steamer cooking does not result in a navored liquid that can be used 10 make 3 S3I.CC.
Combination Cooking Methods Some cooking methods employ both dry-heat and moist-heat cooking ted\. niques. The twO principal combination methods are bJ"'dising and stewing. In both methods. the first step is usuall}' to brown the m:lin item using dry heal The second step is to complete cooking by simmering the food in a liquid Combination methods are good for less tender but flavorful cuts of meat.
PRINCIPLES OF COOKING
~.
177
ftaisillg 1lraised foods benefit from the best qualities of both dry- and moist-heat cooking methods. Foods to be braised are usually large pieces that are first I:.l)wned in a small amount of fat at high temperatures. As with sau h~i ng, heal is transferred from the pan to the food mainly by the process of conduction. Vegetables and seasonings are added, and enough sauce or liquid is died to come one third to one half way up the item being cooked. The pan b col'ered, and the heat is reduced. The food is then cooked at [ow heat, lijing a combination of simmering and steaming to transfer heat from the liqIIKl (conduCtion) and the air (convection) to the food. This can be done on !he stove tOp or in the oven. A long, slow cooking period helps tenderize the main item. Braised foods are usually served with a sauce made Irom the tOOking liquid.
Slewing Stewing also uses a combination of dry- and moist-heat cooking methods. 'itel\ing is most often associated with smaller pieces of food that are first rooked either by browning them in a small amount of fat or oil, or by blanchlag them in a liquid. Cooking is then finished in a liquid or sauce. Stewed foods have enough liquid added to cover them completely and are simmered at a constant temperature until tender. Cooking time is generally shoner for Slt'Wing than for braising because the main items are smaller.
{jkvCLUSION .P.h Cooking is the transfer of heat energy to foods by conduction, convection or radiation. Cooking changes the molecular structure of certain nutrients. When heat is applied, proteins coagulate, starches gelatinize, sugars caramelize, fats melt andwaterevaporates. Foods can be cooked lIsing a variety of methods. Some use W)' heat: broiling, grilling, roasting and baking, sauteing, pan-frying and deepfl")ing. Others use moist heat: poaching, simmering, boiling and steaming. Still 00lers use a combination of the two: braising and stewing. The method used affects the texture, appearance and flavor of the cooked foods. You must under~nd these principles in order 10 ensure that foods are cooked properly.
!!2UESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION .P.h J. Describe the differences between conduction and convection. Identify four cooking methods that rely on both conduction and convection to heat foods. Explain your choices. 2. Idemify two cookillg methods that rely on infrared heat. What is the principal difference between these methods? j. At the same temperature, will a food cook faster in a convection oven or a conventional oven? Explain your answer. -I Describe the process of caramelization and its significance in food preparation. Will a braised food have a caramelized surface? Explain your answer. S. Describe the process of coagulation and its Significance in food preparation. Will a pure fat coagulate if heated? Explain your answer. 6 Describe the process of gelatinization and its Significance in food preparation. WIll a pure fat gelatinize? Explain your answer.
Blanch--lo L'i!ry briefly and parlially a)O,t a food in boiling u"(/Ier or hoi /al; used 10 assisl prefXlralifm (for ex:amp/e, /0 ioosnl peels from t'tgtlables), as pari of a rombillt1!ioll (()()/rillg method or /0 retI/IJt't undesirable jlol'lJrs.
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Citrus, los Angeles, C4 Chef ~lIcbel Richard
=== ~ == After Studying this chapler, you will be able
10:
~ prepare a variety of stocks ...a. recognize and classify sauces ...a. use thickening agents properly <"'0.. prepare a variety of classic and
modern sauces
stock is Cl flavored liquid; a good stock is the key. a great soup, sallee or braised dish. The French appropn"afely caD, stockJand ("base"), as stocks are the basis/or mauy classic and moo. em disbes. A sauce is a thickened liquid IIsed to flavor and enhaNce otbtr
foods. A good sauce addsJlclVor, moisture, richness and visual appeal A sauce should complement fOOd; it should never disguise it. A sallct can be hot or cold, sweet or savoIY, smooth or chunky. Although the thought of preparing stocks and sauces may be in· timidating, the procedures are really quite Simple. Carefully foliO/{ the basic procedures oUlIi/led ill tbis cbaptel; use high-quality ingredients and, with practice and experience, yOt/. wi!! soon be prodllcil1l. fine stocks and sallces. This chapter addresses classical hot sallces as well as coulis, con· temporary broths, flavored oils, salsas alld relishes. Cold sauces, ge11' erally based on mayonnaise, are discllssed ill Chapter 24, Salads and Salad Dressings; dessen sallces are discussed in Chapter 34, Custards, Creams, Frozen Dessel1s and Dessel1 Sauces.
SroCKS
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There are several types of stocks. Allhough they are all made from a COJDlj nation of bones, vegetables, seasonings and liquids, each type uses specific procedures to give it distinctive characteristics. A white stock is made b>' simmering chicken, veal or beef bones in water with vegetables and seasonings. The stock remains relatively colorless durinl the cooking process. A brown stock is made from chicken, veal , beef or game bones and regetables, all of which are caramelized before being simmered in water with se3' sonings. The stock has a rich. dark color. Both a fish stock and a fumet are made by slowly cooking fish bones il" crustacean shells and vegetables without coloring them, then simmering them in water with seasonings for a shan time. For a fumet , wine and lemon ju~ are also added. The resulting stock or fumet is a strongly flavored, relati\'eI!" colorless liquid. A court bouillon is made by simmering vegetables and seasonings in water and an acidic liquid such as vinegar or wine. It is used to poach fish il" vegetables.
Ingredients The basic ingredients of any stock are oones, a vegetable mixture known as a mirepoix, seasonings and water.
Bolles Bones are the most imponant ingredient; they add flavor, richness and color to the stock. Traditionally, the kitchen or butcher shop saved the day's lxmes to make stock. But because many meats and poultry items are now purchased
~ANDSAUCFS
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181
pre-rut or jX>rtioned, food service operations often purchase bones specifically fa stock making. Different bones release their flavor at different rates. Even though the bones ire CUI into 3- to 4-inch (8- to lO-cm) pieces, a stock made entirely of beef 1!Id. or \·eal bones requires six 10 eight hours of cooking time, while a stock mde entirely from chicken bones requires only five to six hours.
Beefal/d Veal Bones The best bones for beef ~l11d veal stock are from younger animals. They COIllJin 3 higher percentage of cartilage and other connective tissue than do 00nes from more mature animals. Connective tissue has a high coUagcn conm Through the cooking process, the collagen is com'ened into gelatin and ,~t('f. TIle gelatin adds richness and body to the finished stock. The best beef and veal bones are back, neck and shank bones as they have high collagen contents. Beef and veal bones should be cut with a meat saw imo small pieces, approximately 3 to 4 inches (8 to 10 cm) long so that they can release as much flavor as possible while the stock cooks.
Chicken Bones The beSt bones for chicken stock arc from (he neck and back. If a whole
chicken carcass is used, it can be cut up for easier handling.
Fish Bones The best bones for fish stock are from lean fish such as sole, flounder, whiting or turbot. !lones from fauy fish (for example, salmon, tuna and swordfish) do not produce good stock because of their high fat content and distinctive lbnKs. The entire fish carcass can be used, but it should be cut up with a deal'er or heavy knife for easy handling and even extraction of flavors. After runing, the pieces should be rinsed in cold water to remove blood, loose .!Cales and other impurities.
Connective lissue-Mue found tbroughout a1l allima/ ~ body tbol bi1ll/s lege/her O//(/ supports 0Iber /issues sua as musr:Jes.
Canilage--or grirIIe, a rough, ~ U'bilisb riJll1ledil't /issue tbal beips ginl slmc/ufe ro an al/imalS body. Co Uagell~ proteil/foulld ill m!tlrly 1111 wn· m!dil.oe lissue; il dissolres u'ben riJo/leti uil/) mois· /u".
Gelalln-a jlatorless, rxtJrU>sr alld /lriIlie mix· lure ifproMnr exlracled from boiIin8 bones, amneclit'l! tissue and oIber a1limal parts; It"bm dislr)/t'td in a boI/iquid aud Iben cookd, it forms a jel1;1i/ie subs/(lIIet used as (1IbicJt(1/er (ll/d slamlizer.
Other Bones Lamb. turkey, game and ham bones can also be used for white or brown !lOCks. Although mixing bones is generally acceptable, be careful of blending 5UOIIgly flavored bones, such :IS those from lamb or game, with beef, veal or ,hicken bones. The former's strong flavors may not be appropriate or desirlnie in the finished product .
•Virepoi.\· .\ mirepoix is a mi.xlUre of onions, calTOlS and celery added to a s(ock to enhance its flavor and aroma. Although chefs differ on the ratio of vegetables, generallr a mixture of 50% onions, 25% carrots and 25% celery, by weight, is used. (Unless otherwise noted, any reference 10 mirepoix in this book refers to thiS ratio.) For a brown stock, onion skins may be used to add color It is not necessary to peel the carrotS or celery because flavor, not aesthetics, is important. The size in which the mirepoix is chopped is determined by the stock's cooking time: The shorter the cooking time, the smaller the vegetables must be chopped to ensure that all possible flavor is extracted. For white or brown stocks Il1lde from beef or veal bones, the vegetables should be coarsely chopped into hrge, 1- to 2-inch (2 1/2- to S-cm) pieces. For chicken and fish stocks, the vegrubles should be more finely chopped into 1I2-inch (I 1I4-cm) pieces. Awhite mirepoix is made by replacing the CArrots in a standard mirepoix "ith parsnips and adding mushrooms and leeks. Some chefs prefer to use a white mirepoix when making a while stock, as it produces a lighter product. Sometimes parsnips, mushrooms and leeks are added to a standard mirepoi.x [or additional flavors.
Miropoix Ingredients
182
C/{AprER 10
Seasonings Principal stock seasonings are peppercorns, bay leaves. thyme, parsley stems. and optionally, garlic. These seasonings generally can be left whole. A stock~ cooked long enough for all of their flavors to be extracted so there is no reason to chop or grind them. Seasonings generally are added to the stock atllr stan of cooking. Some chefs do not add seasonings to beef or veal stock uma midway through the cooking process, however, because of the extended cool· ing times. Seasonings can be added as a sachet d'epices or a bouquet gami. Salt, an OI.herwise important seasoning, is not added to stock. Because a stock has a varicty of uses, it is impossible for the chef to know how much salt 10 add when preparin5t it. If, for example, the stock was seasoned to taste with sail, the chef could not reduce it later; salt is not lost through reduction, and the concentr".Ited product would taste too salty. Similarly, seasoning the stock to 1,ISte with sa lt could prevent the chef from adding o!hef ingredients that are high in salt when finishing :t recipe. Unlike Illany sea· sonings whose flavors must be incorporated into a product through lengthy cooking periods, salt can be
Principles ofStock Making The following principles apply to all stocks. You should follow them in ordo" to achieve the highest-quality stocks possible.
A. Slart Ibe Slock in Cold !Valer The ingredients should always be covered with cold water. When bones aft covered with cold water, blood and rnher impurities dissolve. As the water heats, the impurities coagulate and rise to the surface, where they can be removed easily by skimming. If the bones were covered with hot water, the impurities would coagulate more quickly and rem:lin dispersed in the stock \\ithout rising 10 the tOp, making the stock cloudy. If the waler level falls below the bones during cooking. add water to corer them. Flavor cannot be extracted from bones not under water, and bones ex· posed to the air wi!l darken and discolor a white stock.
8. Simmer tbe Slock Gently
Start the stock in cold "'ater, Simmer the stock gently. Skim the stock frequently. Strain the stock carefully. Cool the stock qUickly. Store the stock properly. Degrease the stock.
The stock should be brought to a boil and then reduced 10 a simmer, a temperature of approximately 185°F (85°C). While simmering, the ingredients release their flavors into the liquid. If kept at a simmer, the liquid will remain clear as it reduces and a stock develops. Never boil a stock for any length of time. Rapid boiling of a stock, even fIX a few minutes, causes impurities and fats to blend wilh the liquid, making i duuJy.
C. Skimlhe Sloc/;: Frequenlo' A stock should be skimmed often (0 remove the fat and impurities that rise to tlr surface during cooking. If they are not removed, they may make the stock cloudy
D. Strainlhe Slock Care/ulo' FIGURE 10.2
I'rillcipleso!S/ockMakillg
Once ,I stock finishes cooking, the liquid must be separated from the bones. vegetables and other solid ingredients. In order to keep the liquid dear, it ~ important not to disturb Ihe solid ingredients when removing the liquid. This is e
sroas AND SAUCES
""'. ""
p 11 \',;
C""'!a.
183
F
: Cold "'llK'f
<:.. Qlttflo",· pipe
mocks
n""" mlE 10.1
D ""
i'enling (/ Slockpot
If the siock is cooked in a standard slockpot, to strain it: 1. Skim as much fat and as many impurities from the surface as possible before removing the stockp0{ from the heat. 2. .oIJter removing the po! from the heat, carefully ladle the stock from the pot without stirring it. j. Strain the stock through a china cap lined with several ia)'ers of cheesedolh.
E. Coollhe Slock QuicklJ' ~10Sl Stocks are prepared in large quantities, cooled and held for later use. Great cue must be taken when cooling a stock to prevent food-borne illnesses or souring. A stock can be cooled quickly and safely with the following procedure:
1. Keep the stock in a melal container. A plastic container insulates the stock
and delays cooling. 2. Vent the stockpot in an empty sink by placing it on blocks or a rack. This allows water to circulate on all sides and below the pot when the sink is filled with water. See Figure lO.1. j. Install an overflow pipe in the drain, and fill the sink with cold water or a combination of cold water and ice. t\lake sure that the weight of the stockpot is adequate to keep it from tipping over. t let cold water run into the sink and drain out the overflow pipe. Stir the stock frequentl}' to facHtate even, quick cooling.
F. Slore lhe Slock ProperIJ, Once Ihe stock is cooled, lransfer it to a sanitized co\'ered container (either plastic or metal) and store it in the refrigerator. As the stock chills, fa! rises to i15 surface and solidifies. If left intact, this layer of fat helps preserve the Stock. Stocks can be stored for up 1O one week under refrigeration or frozen for sevaal months.
G. Degrease Ibe Siock Degreasing a stock is simple: When a stock is refrigerated, fat rises 1O its surf3ee. hardens and is easily lifted or scraped away before the stock is reheated.
fIeURE 10.3 (I
lijling Fat from the Surface oj
Cold Stock
Degrease-to reIlIO/it! fot from the slIrjaa of a liqllid stich (IS a $lad or sollee by skimming, scrapillg or lifting amgetlled fat.
184
~,
ClW'TER 10
W1Jite Stock A white or neutral stock may be made from beef, veal or chicken bones. The finished stock should have a good flavor, good darity, high gelmin conlent 3lId liule or no color. Veal bones are most often used, but any combination of bed veal or chicken bones may be used.
Blanching &mes Chefs disagree on whether the bones for a white stock should be blanched 10 remove impurities. Some chefs argue that blanching keeps the stock as clear and colorless as possible; others argue that blanching removes flavor. PROCEDURE FOR BLANCIUNG BONES
If you choose to blanch the bones: 1. Wash the cut-up bones; place them in a slockpol, and cover them with cold water. 2. Bring the waler 10 a boil over high heal. 3. As soon as the water boils, skim the rising impurities. Drain the water from the bones and discard it 4. Refill the pOi with cold water, and proceed with the stock recipe.
-v-. ====== RECIPE 10.1
WHJ11i STOCK Yield: 2 gal. (8 II)
Bones, veal, chicken or beef Cold \vater Mirepoix Sachet: Bay leaves Dried thyme Peppercorns, crushed Parsley stems
15 lb. 21b.
7 kg 11 It I kg
2 lI2 ISp. 1/2 tsp. 8
2 2 ml 2 ml 8
3 gal.
1. Cut the washed bones into pieces approximately 3-4 inches (8- 10 cm) long, 2. Place the bones in a stockpol and cover them with cold water. If blancll.
ing, bring the water to a boil, skimming off the scum that rises to the sur. face. Drain off the water and the impurities. Then add the 3 gallons (II liters) of cold water and bnng to a boil. Reduce to a simmer. 3. If nOi blanching Ihe bones, bring the cold water to a boil. Reduce to a sirJl. mer and skim the scum that forms. 4. Add the m!repoix and sachet to the simmering slock. 5. Continue simmering and skimming the stock for 6 to 8 hours. (If only chicken bones are used, simmer for 5 to 6 hours.) (i Strain, cool and refrigerale. Approximate values per l-(l~. (3Q.m1) seTVing: Catorles 4. Tow fat .! g. Saturated fat .1 g. Cholesterol O mg, Sodium 5 mg, Total carboh)'drates 0 g, PrOiein .2 g, ClalJns.---.ht free; very low sodi~
SJrXIStlNDSAUCfS
~.
185
Brown Stock .~ trown Stock is made from chicken, veal, beef or game bones. The finished lOCk should have a good flavor, rich dark brown color, good body and high ,atin content.
The primary differences between a brown stock and a white stock are that
kr a brown stock, the bones and mirepoix are caramelized before being simmered and a tomato product is added. These extra sleps pro\'ide the finished stOCk with a rich dark color and a morc intense navor.
(JUamelizing Carnmelization is the process of browning the sugars found on the surface of foods. This gives the stock its characteristic flavor and color.
IOOS!
PRocEDURE FOR CARAMELIZING BONES
For caramelizing, do not wash or blanch the bones as this retards browning. To caramelize: I. Place the cut-up bones in a roasting pan onc layer deep. 11 is beller to roast screraJ pans of bones than 10 overfill one pan. 1 Roost the bones for approximately 1 hour in a hot oven (375°F/ 190°C). Stirring occasionally, brown the bones thoroughly, but do not allow them to bum. .I Transfer the roasted bones from the pan to the stockpot
fJeglazillg the Pall :\.~er the bones are caramelized, the excess fat should be removed and reserved for future use. TIle caramelized and coagulated proteins remaining in !he roasting pan are very flavorful. To utilize them, you deglaze the pan.
PRocrnURE FOR DEGLAZING THE PAN
Deglaze-IQ swirl Qr slir a liq/lid (usually U1·ne or SttxR) ill a smllt pall or other pall 10 dissoke cooje(ljood particles T"/'II/(lillillg 011 tbe ixJIIom; lbe rest/fh"lIg mit/llT"/' ojlf!1/ /;ea)lI/es tbe basefor a
Sill/ct.
I. Place the pan on the stove top over medium heat, and add enough water
to cover the bottom of the pan approximately 112 inch (12 mm) deep. 1 Stir and scrape the pan bottom to dissolve and remove all the caramelized j.
materials while the water heats. Pour me deglazing liquid (also known as the deglazing liquor) over the bones in the stockpot.
I'IocEouRE !'OR CARAMEUZING M1REPOIX
Most any tomato product can be used in a brown stock: fresh tomatoes,
Remouillage-(FrendJfor ··,w:efling·j a sirrl produarl by ret/Sing lbe bolles left from malring atlQ/ber Sled. Aj/er drainillg the Original sirrl from the sJoc1poI, midfresb mirtpoix, a lIew sachet and mough u·aler 10 Ci)t."er lhe holies alld mlrtpoix, and a serl)fld sJocA tall be made. A remouil/age if lri!aled like /be original sloe!; allow il /Q simmer jor jour 10 fit"e bouT$ before slra;1/illg. A remouil/age u;iI/ not be as dear or as fla/,'Orjul as the origin(ll sloek, bcm:eu?r. /I is ojIm /Isert 10 lI1(1ke glazes or ill pklct oj waler U'MI
canned whole tomatoes, crushed tomatoes, tomato puree or paste. If using a
m(lking slocils.
I. Add a lillie of the reserved fat from the roasted bones to the roasting pan
after it has been deglazed. (Or use a sautoir large enough to contain all the mirepoix comfonably.) 2. Saute the mirepoix, browning all the vegetables well and e\'enly without burning them. .I Add the caramelized mirepoix to the stockpot.
186
~.
CIIAP/1iJI10
concentrated lomatO product such liS paste or puree, use approximatel)' hd the amOl111[ by weight of fresh or canned tomatoes. The tomato pnxllK1 should be added to the stockpol when the mirepoix is added.
RECIPE 10.2
BROWN SroCK Yield: 2 gal. (8 It)
Bones, veal or beef,
3-4
15 lb.
7 kg
Cold water
3 ga\.
lilt
r-.'iirepoix
2 lb.
Tomalo paste Sachet: Bay leaves
8 oz.
I kg 250 g
CUI in
in. (8- IO em) pieu::.
Dried thyme
Peppercorns, crushed Garlic cloves, crushed Parsley stems
2 1/2 lSp. 1/2 lSp.
2 2011
3
2 ml 3
12
12
1. Place the bones in a roasting p:m, one layer deep, and brown in a 3~5°F
090°C) oven. Turn the bones occasionally to brown them evenly. 2. Remove the bones and place them in a slockpm. Pour off the fal from the roasting pan and reserve it.
3. Deglaze the roasting pan with pan of the cold water. 4. Add the deglazing liquor and the rest of the cold water to the ixmes, CO'i· ering them completely. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. 5. Add a portion of the reserved fat to the roasting pan :md saUie the mirepoi."{ until evenly browned. Then add it to the Simmering stock. 6: Add the tomato paste and sachet to the stock and cominue to simmer fa 6 to 8 hours, skimming as ne<:ess.1fy. 7. Strain, cool and refrigerate. Approximate values per \-(lZ. (3O-mJ) servin!!, CalorlCII 3, Tow fat 0 II, Samrated fat 0 g, Cookste rol .3 mg, SodIum 105 mg, Total carbo hyd rates 0 g, Protein 0 g, ClallllS---fat free: low sodiuIII
J. Caramelizing the bones.
2. OegJazing the pan with W:Iter,
STOCKS AND SAUCES ~
4. Adding the proper amount of water.
J. Car:lmelizing the mirepoix.
Fisb Stock and Fish Fumet .\ fish stock and a fish fumet are similar and can be used ime:ch:mgeably in most recipes, Both arc clear with a pronounced fish flavor and very light body. \ fumet, however. is more strongly flavored and aromatic. The fish bones and cmstacean shells used to make a fish stock or fumet Wxild be washed but never blanched because blanching removes 100 much !:IIOf. Because of the size and stmclllre of fish boncs and crustacean sheils, \locks and fllmets made from them require much less cooking lime than el'en l chicken stock: 30 10 45 minutes is usually sufficienl to extrad full flavor. \Iirepoi.x or other ,'cgelables should be CUI small so (hal all of their flavors can be e.xuacted during the short cooking time. The procedure for making a fish stock is very similar to that for making a IIhite stock.
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 10.3
FISH STOCK Yield: [ gal. (4 It)
Fbh bones or cmstace.l11 shells \'i'Jler .\!irepoi.'(, small dice ~!ushroom Irimmings SJchet: Bar IC;l\'cS Dried thyme Peppercorns. cnlshed Pan>[cy Siems
10 lb.
45 kg
5 qts.
51t 450 g 250 g
lib. 8 oz.
2
2
1/2 ISp. 1/4 ISp. 8
2o[ 1 o[
8
/. Combine all ingredients in a slOckpot. 1. Bring 10 a simmer and skim impurities as necess.'uy. j, ~immer for 30 to 45 minutes. 4. ~in. cool and refrigerate. PXIIfIl!C \";lllles pt'f 1-01,. (3Q. ml) scJ'\'ing, Ca lories S. Total fat 0 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Cholcs, 1n'OI 1) 1Il!I. Sodillm tOO IIIg, Total ca rbo hyd ratcs 0 g, Proleln 1 g, Claims--fal free; low sodiulil
187
188
""2\
C/IA?!'ER !O
Sweat-lo tXJOi a food ill a /XlII (usul//Jy COl.... tred). llilboul brou11illg. our/ou, bttllllllhtlbe item soj1el/S alld reltwses moistllre; S/I't'(/ling (/{. I()II~ the food 10 reletlSe its jfllt'01' more quicllfy uben cooh!tl uilb other foods.
A fish stock is sometimes used to make a fish fumet; if so, the resuh~ product is vcry strongly flavored. A fish fumet is also flavored with white \\inc and lemon juice. When making a fumet , sweat the bones and \'egetables hefore adding the cooking liquid and seasonings.
============= ~
RECIPE IDA
FISH FUIlIET Yield: 2 gal. (8 II) Whole butter Onion, small dice Parsley stems Fish bones Dry white wine Lemon juice Cold water or fish stock j\']ushroom trimmings Fresh th}'me Lemon slices
2 oz.
60g
1 lb.
500 g
12
12
10 lb.
5 kg
I 1/2 pI.
750 ml 60ml 7 Ii
2 oz. 7 ql. 2 oz. 1 sprig
60g 1 sprig
10
10
1. Melt the butter in a stockpol. 2. Add the onion, parsley stems and fish bones. Cover the pot and sweat the bones over low heat. 3. Sprinkle the bones with the white wine and lemon juice. 4. Add the cold water or fish stock, mushroom trimmings, thyme and lemoo slices. Bring \0 a boil , reduce \0 a simmer and cook approximately 30 mm· utes, skimming frequently. 5. Strain, cool and refrigerate. Approxirruuc '
(3O.mt) serving: Calories 5, Total fat
.7
g, Satu rated {at .2 g, Chote.
tero l .5 mg. Sodium 90 g. Total carbo hyd rates 0 g, Protein 1 g, Claims-fat free; low sodium
(
1. Sweating the onions, parsley stems and fish bones.
2. Adding cold water and seasonings.
STOCfJ' AND SWCES
I'egetableStock
~
/89
~ ===
.~ good
\'egetable stock should be dear and light colored. Because no animal JXIXIucts are used, it has no gelatin content . A vegetable stock can be used inltt'3d of a meat-based stock in most recipes. This substitution is useful when JXtP3.ring \"egetarian dishes or as a lighter, more healthful alternative when fXtP3ring sauces and soups. Although almost any combination of \'egetables C1I1Ix' used for stock making, more variery is nOI always better. Sometimes a Itgellble stock made with one or two vegetables thaI complement the fi n-
ished dish p.1nicularl)' well will produce better resulLS than a stock made with rmn)' vegeJables.
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 10.5
VEGETABLE SroCK Yield: I gal. (4 It)
Vegetable oil Mirepoix, small dice
Leek, whites and greens, chopped Garlic do\'es, chopped
Fennel. small dice Turnip, diced Tomato, diced 'XlIile wine \\"ater
2 oz.
60 ml
2 lb. 8 oz.
900 g 250 g 4
4 4 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. 8 oz. 1 gal.
60 g 60 g 250 ml 4 It
I
1
liZ tsp.
Z ml 1 ml
120 g
Sachet
Bay leaf Dried thyme Peppercorns, cnlshed Parsley stems
l/4lsp. 8
8
I. Heal the oil. Add the vegetables and sweat for 10 minutes. 2. Add the white wine, w:uer and sachet. j Bring the mixrure to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes. 4. Strain, cool and refri gerate . .~Ie \";llues per I-()z. GO-mI) SCf"ing: Calorie$ 5. Totat fat 0 g, SalUraled fal 0 g, Choles· troI 0 mg. Sodium 0 mg, Total carbohydrates 0 g, Protein 0 g. Claims---fal free; low calorie
Coul'l Bouillon Acourt bouillon, though not actually a stock, is prepared in much the s.1me manner as stocks, so it is included here. A court bouillon (French for "short Ixtth") is a flavored liquid, usually water and wine or vinegar, in which vegetables and seasonings have been simmered 10 impan their flavors and aromas. Court bouillon is most commonly used to poach foods such as fish and ~llfi5h. Recipes vary depending upon the foods to be poached. Although a COOr1 bouillon can be made in ad\'ance and refrigerated for later use, its simplicity lends itself to fresh prepardtion whenever needed.
CO_H.."ERClAL BAsES
Commercially prodUCfd fla\"OT (or COfl\'enienee) bases are "idely used in food se]"\ire ~ration.s. They are pD\'o"dered or dehydrated f1a\"Orin~ added to water to creale stocks or, when used in smaller amounts, to enhanre the f1a\'Or of sauces and soups. Although inferior to well-made stocks, flal'Or bases do reduce the labor im'Oh'Cd in the production of stocks, sauces and soups. Used properly, they also ensure a consistent product. &:;ause bases do not contain gelatin, stocks and Saure; made from them do not benefit from reduction. Bases vary greatly in qua1ilr and prire. Slxlium (salt) is the main ingredient in most bases. Better bases are made primarily of meat, poultry or fish e:o."traCts. To judge the quality of a fla\'Or base. prepare il according to package directions and compare the f1aror to thai of a well-made stock. The fla\"Or base can be impl1)\-ed by adding a mirepoix, standard sachet and a few appropriate bones to the mixture, then simmering for one or two hoUlS. It can then be strained, stored and used like a regular stock. Although comenienee bases are "idel)' used in the indusuy, i1 Is imponam to remember that e-.-eIl the best base is a poor substitute for a well-made stock.
190
f""\!\..
CHAPTER JO
====== ..,.",.. ====== RECIPE 10.6
COURT BOUIllON Yield: I gal. (4 It) Water Vinegar Lemon juice Salt Mirepoix Peppercorns, crushed Bay leaves Dried thyme Parsley stems
I gal.
41t
6 oz.
180 mI
2 oz. 112 oz. l ib. 8 oz. I tsp.
60ml
4
15 g 6;0 g 5 ml 4
pinch I bunch
pinch I bunch
1. Combine all ingredients and bring to a boil. 2. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes. 3. Strain and use immediately or cool and refrigerate,
NOTE: This recipe can be used for poaching almost any fish, but it is parti'. ularly well suited to salmon, trollt and shellfish. When poaching freshwatofish , replace the water and vinegar with equal pans white wine and water. Approximate values per toOZ. (3O.ml) snving: Calorit'S 3, Total fat 0 g, Satur.lted fal 0 g. Cbob lerol 0 mg, SodiJm 70 mg, Total c:arbo hr dt:lle:9 0 g, Protein 0 g. Clairns-fal free; low ~
Nage An aromatic ::OUlt bouillon is sometimes served as a light sauce or broth \\ith fish or shellfish. TIlis is known as a nage, and dishes served in Ihis manner a.-e described as a la noge (Fr. for "swimming"). After the fish or shellfish ~ cooked, additional herbs and aromatic vegetables are added to the cooking liquid, which is then reduced slightly and strained. Alternatively, the used court bouillon can be strained, chilled, and clarified with egg whites and aromatic vegetables in the same manner as a conson Finally, whole butter or cream may be added to a nage for richness.
Glaze A glaze is the dramatic reduction and concentration of a stock. One gallon (4 liters) of stock prodllces only 1 10 2 cups (2 1/2 to 5 deciliters) of glaze. G/oa de viande is made from brown stock, reduced until it becomes dark am syrupy. Glace de volail/e is made from chicken stock, and glace de pom from fish stock. Glazes are added to soups or &1UCeS to increase and intensify fla\·ors. Ther are also used as a SOllrce of intense flavoring for several of the small sauces discussed next. PROCEDURE FOR REDUCING A STOCK TO A GLAZE J. Simmer the stock over very low heat. Be careful not to let it burn and skim it often.
SlOCKSANDSAUCES
I'AIII£ lO.l ,n, TROUBI.ESIIOOTL' G CHART FOR STOCKS ProiJI<m
Reason
Solution
Doody
Impurities Stock boiled during cooking
1.d of flavor
Not cooked long enough Inadequate seasoning Improper ratio of bones to water Improperly caramelized bones and mirepoix 1'\01 cooked long enough Wrong bones used
Stan slOck in cold water Strain through layers of cheesecloth Increase cooking time Add more flavoring ingredients Add more bones
lJc\; of color
Lack of body
Too sallY
Insufficient reduction Improper ratio of bones to water Commercial base used Sal! added during cooking
CaT'Jmelize bones and mircpoix until darker Cook longer Use bones with a higher content of connective tissue Cook longer Add more bones Change base or make own stock; do not salt stock
2 As it reduces and the volume decreases, transfer the liquid intO progressi\'ely smaller saucepans. Strain the liquid each time it is transferred into a smaller saucepan . j. Strain it a fina l time, cool and refriger;ne. A properly made glue will keep for several months under refrigeration.
SAUCES \\ilh a few exceptions, a sallee is ,\ liquid plus thickening agent pillS seasonings. Any chef can produce fine sauces by le:trning (0: 1. Make good stocks l. L'se thickening agents properly 10 achieve the desired texture, flavor and
appearance j. Use seasonings properly to achieve the desired fl avors
Cassie h()( sauces are divided into two groups: mother or leading sauces (Fr. SIlllce mere) and small or compound sauces. TIle five classic mother sauces are bechamel. veloUle, espagnole (brown), tomato and hollandaise. Except for hoIbndaise, leading sauces are rarely served as is; more often d:ey are used to create the many small $.1uces. ~O! all sauces fa ll imo the traditional classifications, however. Some sauces use purees of fru itS or vegetables as their base; they are known as rou1is. Others, such as bcurre blanc (French for ~while but1er~) and brorre rouge ("red bUller"), are based on an acidic reduction in which whole buner is incorpordted. Flavored butters, flavored oils, salsas, reiisbes and pan gravy are also used as sauces in modern food service operations.
C""2\,
191
192
. CHAPTER 10
Thickening Agents Although there are exceptions, most sauces are thickened by the gelatiniz.:u..... of starches. As discussed in Chapter 9. Principles of Cooking, geiatinizalioo II the process by which starch granules absorb moiSlUre when placed in a liqu.. and heated. As the moisture is absorbed, the produa thickens. Starches generally used to thicken sauces are flour, cornstarch and arrowroot. Gelatini1J. tion may sound easy, but it t:lkes practice to produce a good sauce that: + Is lump-free + Has a good dean flavor that is nOt pasty or floury + Has a consistency that will coat the back of a spoon (the French call this
nappe) + Will nOt separate or break when the sauce is held or reduced ROll.'\'
Roux is the principal means used to thicken sauces. It is a combination Ii equal parts, by \\'eight, of flour and fat, cooked together to form a paste. Cod· ing the flour in fat coats the starch granules with the fat and pre\'ents thea from lumping together or forming lumps when introduced imo a liquid. Ie large production kitchens, large amounts of raux are prepared and held ~ use as needed. Smaller operations may make roux as required for each rtX'ipt There are three types of raux:
While, Biol/(llIlId 8rowl/llou:r
1. While rolLX-1t is cooked only briefly and should be remo\'ed from ~ heat as soon as it develops a (rothy, bubbly :lppearance. It is used in \\sauces, such as bechamel, or in dishes where little or no color is desired. 2. Blond rolL'X-Cooked slightly longer than white raux, blond raux sOOWj begin to lake on a lillie color as the flour caramelizes. It is used in i\"(.~· colored sauces, such as veloute, or where a richer flavor is desired. 3. Brown roux-It is cooked until it develops a darker color and a n~ aroma and flavor. Brown roux is used in brown sauces and dishes wherr a dark color is desired. It is imponanl to remember lhat cooking a starch before adding a liquid breaks down the starch granules and prevents ge1atinization from occurring. 111crcfore, because brown raux is cooked lon~ than white raux, more brown roux is required (0 thicken a given quanLilj of liquid.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING
Roux
Whether it will be white, blond or brown, (he procedure for making the same:
rou.~ iI
I . Using a hea\'y saucepan to prevent scorching. heat (he clarified buner or
Cooklllg Jbe NOI/.\'
other fa!. 2. Add all the flour and stir 10 form a paSte. Although all-purpose flour can be used, it is Jx>uer to use cake or P.1StT)' flour because they conlain a higher percentage of starch. Do nO! use high gluten flour because of its greatly reduced starch content. (FlouTS are discussed in Chapter 29, Principles of the Bakeshop.) 3. Cook the paste O\'er medium heat until the desired color is achieved. Stir the roux often to avoid burning. Burnt raux will not thicken a liquid; it will simply add dark specks and an llndesir:lble navor.
SlYXISANDSAUCFS ~
193
~ =====================
A SAUCY HIS1VKY
The v.urd sauce is derived from the L:ltin m.saillS, meaning "salted." This deriration is~riate, For millennia, salt has been the bzsic condiment for enhancing or disguising ft flaltlf of many foods. On~r the centuries. SlIm haw also been used for these pUlpOSes. Cooks of ancient Rome flarQred many oi!bes \I;th gtlrum, a goldcn-colored sauce made from femlented fish entrails combined lith brine, condiments, water and \\line or Iinegar. They also used a sauce referred to as a "sin~e" made from oil, wine and brine. When 00i1ed \lith herbs and saffron, it became a "000b1e" sauce. To this the Byzantines later ~ MlIJer, dores, Cinnamon, cardamom lid coriander or spikenud (a fragrant ointment made from grains), DJring the Middle Ages, chefs (and their empIc1,trS) were fond of either lery spicy or M(·and·sour sauces. A typical sauce for IOZtal meat consisted of POy,dered cinnamon, urustard. red \\;ne and a S\\'retener such as booey. Itll''dS thickened, if at all. with bits of tale or grilled bread. Other sauces were based 00 ~Uire, an acidic stock prepared from the [00 Ii unripe grapes. To it \lere added other fruit juices, honey, fiooer petals and herbs or spi£es. IndeEd, most medieval sauces were talil)' spiced. Perhaps this was done 10 hide !be taste of salt.cured or less-than-fresh meats. More likely, however, these sauces lIere scnw to tile host's wealth, Guillaume TIrel (c. 1312-1395), who called himself Tam el'cnt, was the master cbef for Charles V of France. Around 1375, liillelent wrote le ['kmdier, the oldest-knOl'rlI French cookbook. 111e cooking style he de• relies heavily on pounding, pureeing 1"11 spicing most foods so that Ihe finished Iisb bears little resemblance in shape, texture Cl'!bIur 10 the original ingredients. Included
in his methexis are 17 sauces. Among them is a recipe for a (£Jmeiine sau.:e. It is made from grilled bread soaked in lIire; the lIine·soaked bread is then drained, squeeze-dried and ground v.ith cinnamon, ginger, pepper, dOl'CS and nuuneg; this mixture is then diluted \\lith vinegar. There is also a recipe for a sauce called /(lillemasllfe, made d fried onions, verjuice, vinegar and muslaro. (Appropriately, on his gra\e marker, Tai!la-ent is dressed as a sergeant·at-anns whose shield is decorated \\lith three cooking pots.) Recipes for some sauce; of the Renaissance, such as fJOillrade or Robert, are recognizable today. Most sauces enjored in Renaissance-era !laly and France consisted of some combination of conrentraled cooking juices, \\lines, herbs and spices (especially pepper), sometimes thickeoed with bread. SII'ret fruit-based sauces were also popular. Most important for the dele]· opment of modem cuisine, OOII'I?IW, lI'as the ping use fi sauas basa:! on broths thick·
aase
The lemperJIUre and amount of roux being prepared delemline the exact length of cooking time. Generally, however, a white roux needs to cook for only a few minutes, long enough 10 minimize the raw flour taste. Blond raux is cooked longer, until tile paste begins 10 change to a slighdy darker color. Brown roux requires a much longer cooking time to develop ilS characteristic color and aroma. A good roux will be Stiff, not runny or pourable.
ened \lith cream, butter and egg yolks and flalUred lIith herbs and spices. Although he died in relatil"e obscurity, many now consider Fran~ois Pierre de La "arenne (1618-1678) 10 be one of the founding fathers of French cuisine. His treatises, especially 1£ Cui$illier frollfilis (1651), detail the early del'Clopmem, nlethexls and manners of French cuisine. IHs analysis and recipes mark a departure from medieval cookery and a French cuisine heavily intluenced by Italian traditions. His writings \lere uniquely modem in thaI he included recipe; for new foods (especially fruits and vegetables natil-e to the Americas or the Far East) and for indigenous foods (such as saltwater fish) that \lere gradually becoming more popular. La \'arenne is credited \\lith introdUCing roux as a thickening agent for sauces, especially l-elou~ sauces. He empha· sized the importance of properly prepared fands and the reduction of cooking juices 10 concentrate flalurs. He also popularized the use of bouquets gami 10 tlaror stocks and sauces. Sometime during the early 18th century, the chef to the French Due de Levis-~lirepoix pioneered the use of onions, cete/)' and carrots 10 enhance tile flal'Or and aroma of stocks. The mixture, named for the chef's employer, soon became ~le standard way of enriching stocks. An enrichm stock greatly improl'es the quality of the sauces derived from it. During tile early 19th centu/)', Antonin Careme dc\'Cloped the modem system for classifying hundreds of sauces. It is unknown how many sauces Careme actually iO\'Cnted himself, but he wrote treatises containing the theories :Uld recipes for many of the sauces still used today. Careme's extraragant lists of sauces v.'Cre reduced and simplified b)' chefs later in the 19th centu/)', most notably by Augusle Escofficr.
194 "". C/Wl'ER 10
TABLE 10.2 ,n., PROPORTIONS OF Roux TO LIQUID
(d
Flour
+
BUller
6 oz./l90 g 8 ozJ 250 g 12 oz./3i5 g
+
6 ozj l90 g
+
Liquid
+ 80z) 2;0&
+ +
+
+
1 gal.14 II = 1 gall " II = 1 gaL/4 II =:
=
Roux
= 12 oz1375 g = 1 Ib.lSOO g 12 02.137; g = 24 oz.n50 g
=
Sauce light medium hea\)'
VARIABlES: The starch content of a flour determines its thickening power. Cake flout being lowesl in protein and highest in st:l.rch, has more thickening power !han bread flour, which is high in protein and low in starch. In addition, a dark roux has less thickening power than a lighter one, so more will be needed to thicken an equal amount of liquid.
thll
rou~
(bJ
iNCORPOOOING
Roux INTO A I.IQUID
TIlere afC two ways to incorporate rollX into a liquid witholl! causing Jumps:
1. Cold stock can be added 10 the hot rollX while stirring vigorously with a whisk. 2. Room-temperalUre roux can be added to a hOt slOck while stirring vigor· ously with a whisk. HOIWXk
Cold 1'001
\l;befl thickening srock "'illl I'(MI~. either (a) add cold srock 10 IlOl roUI. or (b) :uhl cold roux 10 h0l51OCk.
When the roux and the liquid are completely incorporated and the S:IlXr begins to ixlil, it is necessary to cook the sa lice for a time to remove anr r.J\\ flour taste that may remain. Most chefs fee l a minimum of 20 minutes is nee· essary.
GUIDELINES FOR USING Roux I . Avoid using aluminum pots. The scraping action of the whisk will lllrn ligh!
sauces gray and will imp;1I1 a melall ic flavor. 2. Use sufficiently heavy pots 10 prevent S;tllces fram scorching or burning during extended cooking times. 3. Avoid extreme temperatures. Raux should be no colder than room tem· perature so Ihat the fat is nOI fully solidified. Extremely hOI raux is dan· gerous and can spaucr when combined with a liquid. Stocks should nO! be ice cold when combined wilh raux; the raux will become \'ery cold. and the solidified pieces may be very difficult to work out with a whisk. 4. Avoid ovenhickening. Raux does not begin to thicken a sauce until the sauce is almost at the ixliling point: the thickening action continues for several minutes while the sauce simmers. If a sauce is to cook for a long lime, it will also be thickened by reduction.
Corns/tire/) Cornstarch, a very fine white lX)wder, is :1 pure starch derived from corn. [1 is lLsed widely as a thickening agent for hot :lOd cold sauces and is especial~' popul3r in Asian cuisines for thickening sauces and soups. Liquids thickened with cornstarch have a glossy sheen 111m mayor may nOt be desirable. One unit of cornstarch thickens about twice as much liquid as an equal unit of flour. Sauces thickened with cornstarch are less stable than those thickene
Sroc/~jANDSAUCE.S
~.
195
th roux because cornstarch can break down and lose its thickening power
kr prolonged beating, Products thickened with cornstarch should not be """ed.
fllcorpomting Cornstarch Cornstarch must be mixed wilh a cool liquid before it is introduced into a one. TIle cool liquid separates the grains of starch and allows them to ~ absorbing liquid without lumping. A solution of starch and cool liquid is ailed a slurry. The starch slurry may be added to either a hot or cold liquid. If added 10 a liquid, it must be stirred continuously during incorporation. Unlike roux , (OOlSlarch begins to thicken almost immeuialdy if [he liquid is hot. Sauces . ·t'Oed with cornstarch must be cooked gentl}' until the raw starch flavor .Iis:lppcars, usuaiJy :Ibou( five minutes.
Slurrr--JOIulkm of rau' slarriJ ami a CiJlilliquid IISed/or Ibial!1lillg.
Arrowroot \rrowroot, derived from the roots of several tropical planLS, is similar in texture, JWe3rance and thickening power to cornstarch :md is used in exactly the same nunner. Arrowroot does not break down :tS quickly as cornstarch, and it prodJces a slightly clearer finished product although it is much more expensive.
BttlrreMallii !!eurre manie is a combination of equal amountS, by weight , of flour and soft ,,"hole bUller. TIle flour and bUller are kneaded together until smooth. 111e mixture is then formed inlO pea-sized balls and whisked into a simmering >1oce. Beurrc manie is used for quick thickening at the end of the cooking process. TIle butter also adds shine :md flavor [0 the sauce as it melts. liaison lnlike the thickeners already described, a liaison does not thicken a sauce through gelatini7..1Iion. A liaison is a mixture of egg yolks and heavy cream; it Jckb richness and smoothness with minimal thickening. Specia l care must be ukffi to prevent the yolks from coagulating when they are added to a hot liquid hecausc this could curdle the sauce. 1. Adding hot liquid to the egg yolk
I'RocwURf. FOR USING A LLIISON
and cream mixture.
I. \\'hisk together one part egg yolk and three parts whipping cream.
Combining the yolk with cream mises the tempemlUre at which the yolk's proteins coagubte, making it easier to incorporate them into a sauce without lumping or curdling ]. Temper the egg yolk and cream mixture by slowly adding a small amount of the hot liquid while stirring continllollsly. ~ \'i'hen enough of the hot liquid has been added to the liasion to warm it thoroughly, begin adding the warmed liasion to the remaining hot liquid. Be sure to stir the mixture carefully to prevent the yolk from overcooking or lumping. Pl:tin egg yolks coagulate :It tempemillres between 1 4~F and I:;goF (65 CC_70 C C), MLxing them with cream raises the temperatures at which they coagulate to approximately 180°F-185°F (82 c C-85°C). TemperJtures over 185°F (85°C) wm ca use the yolks to curdle. Great care musl be taken to hold the sauce :Ibove 1400F (60 cC) for food safety and sanita(ion reasons, yet below 185 cF (85°C) 10 prevem curdling.
2. Adding the tempered egg yolk and
cream liaison to the hOt liquid.
Tempering-grndualJy misillg lhe /elll{Jfralllre
of a roklilquid try slmdy sJirrillg 1// /1 boIliqllid.
196
,
C1W Y/'1:'R 10
Finisbing Tecbniques Reductioll As sauces cook, moisrure is released in the form of Steam. As steam escapes. the remaining ingredients concentrate, thickening the sauce and slrengt~ the flavors. TIlis process, known as reduction , is commonly used to thicken sauces because no starches or Other flavor-altering ingredients are needed Sauces are often finished by alloWing them to reduce until the desired ~ tency is reached.
Reduclion----aJOotil/g a lkilli" such as a Sillla 11II1i1 its qllfllllilJ' di'crrt1St'S Ihrough i'mpomIWII. 1b M/lice by Qllt bfl/f metll/s IIxII Ollt bu/f of lbe origilllli (1II/011II11'1'1IIoi/l$,
7b
Millce by
fbrre
qllflrlen mPtII/S Ilxll ouly Ollt qllurll!r oflbe origf-
1If11 (11II01il1/I'1'II/(1it/S. 7b M/ua (III sec !//('(II/S tlxll/be liqllid is cooked 1I1/1i1/IWlrly dry.
Straining Smoothness is import:tnt to the success of most sauces. They can be str:Jined through either 1I chin:l cap lined with several layers of cheesecloth or a fire mesh chinois. As discussed later, often vegetables, herbs, spices and other seasonings are added to a sallce for flavor. Str:lining removes these ingrediemsas well as any lumps of roux or thickener remaining in the sauce after the desired flavor and consistency have been rcached.
MOlller au. Beurre Monter au beurre is the process of swirling or whisking whole butter into a sauce to give it shine, flavor and richness. Compound or flavored buners, discussed later, can be used in place of whole butter to add specific flavors. Mooter au beurre is widely used to enrich and finish small S.1UCes.
Sauce Families TABLE
10.3
h'> SAUCE FrullIl.IES
liquid
Thickener
Mother
Milk
Roux
BecpameJ
White Stock veal slock chicken stock fish stock
Roux
VclOlllC Veal Velollle Chicken Veioute Fish Velolllc
Brown Stock
Roux
Espagnole (Brown Sauce)
TOlUato
Roux .optional
Tomato Sauce
Buller
Egg yolks
Hollandaise
~auce
Leading or mother sauces are the foundation for tIr entire classic repertoire of hot sauces. The five leading sauces-bechamel, veloute, espagnole (also known
Tbe Becbamel Family MILK
I
Bt:CI-IAMEl
Cream
CheddJf
I
Nanma
Soubise
SJTJCfSANDSAUCES ~.
\:nned for its cre:.ltor, Louis de BCchameil (1630-1703), steward to Louis XIV of bechamel sauce is the easiest mother sallce 10 prepare. Traditionally, it is ntlde by adding heavy cream to a thick veal veloute. Allhough some chefs ~l believe a bechamel should contain veal stock, today the S<1.l;ce is almost al'I,l)) made by thickening scalded milk with a white roo;.: and adding seasoningi. Often used for vegetlble, egg and gratin dishes, bechamel has fallen into rrlalil'e disfavor recently because of ilS rich, heavy nature. It is nevertheless im!OOJm 10 understand ilS production and its place in traditional 5.1.uce making. ,\, properly made bechamel is rich, cre:~my and absolutely smooth with no him of gr:lininess. TIle flavors of the onion and clove used to season it should reapparent but not overwhelm the sauce's clean, milky taste. The sauce should be the color of heavy cream and have a deep luster. It should be thick enough (0 coat focx:ls lightly but should nOt taste like the roux used to thicken it. FrallCt.
=========== .~ ============ RECIPE 10.7
BECHAMEL \leld: I gal. (4 It)
Onion piquet Milk
1
Rom
8 oz. 8 oz. IT IT
Cbrifted bUller Salt and white pepper Nuuneg
I gal.
1
4 :t 250 g 250 ml IT IT
I. Add the onion piquet to the milk in a heavy saucepan and simmer for 20
minutes. [n a separate pot, make a white roux with the flour and butter. j. Remove the onion piquet from the milk. Gradually add the hOI milk to the roux while stirring constantly with a whisk to prevent lumps. Bring to a !xliI. 4. Reduce the sauce to a simmer, add the seasonings and continue cooking for 30 minutes. 5. SIr:lin the sauce through a china cap lined with cheesecloth. Melted butler can be carefully ladled over the surface of the sauce to pre\'cnt a skin from fonning. Hold for service or cool in a water bath.
2.
ApJmlllllJlC .....1U<.'S p<:1' 6-0~. (21 3-g) serving' OIlaries 240. Tomt fat I; g. Satufllted fat 9 g. Choles· 1mlI 50 mg. Sodium 180 mg. Total carbohydra tes 18 g, Protein 7 g. Vitami n A IS%, Calcium 25%
Small Bkbamel Sauces With a good bechamel, producing the small sauces in its family is quite simple. The quantities indicated below are for 1 quart (I liter) of bechamel. TIle fin:ll step for each reCipe is to SC'Json to taste with salt and pepper. Cream Sauce Add to bechamel 8-12 ounces (250-360 milliliters) scalded cream and a few drops of lemon juice.
Cheddar Add to lX.-'C hamel 8 ounces (250 grams) grated cheddar cheese, a dash of Worceslershire sauce and I tablespoon (15 milliliters) dry mustard.
Bee/XI/lief
197
198
~
CHAPTER 10 Mornay Add to bechamel 4 ounces (120 gr.lms) gr..led Gruyere and! ounce 00 grams) gmted Parmesan. 'l1lin as desired with scalded cream. Remove the sauce from the heat and swirl in 2 ounces (60 grams) whole buner, Nantua Add to bechamel 4 ounces (120 milliliters) heavy cream :ind 6 ounces (180 grams) crayfish butter (page 211). Add paprika to achieve the desired color. Garnish the finished &lUCe with diced cr:l yfish mea\. Soubise ( modern)
Sweat 1 pound (;00 grams) diced onion in I OUllCt
(30 gr.:lms) bUller without browning. Add 1x.'Ch;lmei and simmer until
rr.:
onions are fully cooked. Strain through a fine chinois.
71Je Ve{ollte Family mn
STOCK
WHITE STOCK
I
(chicken or veal)
I
CHICK~:N OR VEAL VELOllTl:
I
FISI! VELOUJi:
l}crty
I Nor!ll~nd y
Cardinal
Auror.1
HorserJdish
Allemande (liaison)
Supreme
I
I
Mushroom
(cream)
Ilunganan
Poulette
Albufera
AlIemande------a11 intermediary Sill/ce IIIOde by addillg 1('11101/ jllice alld {/ /il/Ison /() chickt'll or 1'tY/ll'ekm/e. Supreme--all inlermNliory sauce "wife by adding (.T(!(/m 10 cbidrell 1'tIolitf.
Veloute sauces are made by thickening a white stock or fish stock with rout TIle white stock can be made from veal or chicken bones. A fish veloul~ sauce, made from fish stock, is used to create a few small s.:UJces. t\ velout~ &lUce made from veal or chicken stock is usualJy used to make one of two intermediary sauces-allemande and supreme-from which many small s:luces are derived. Allemande sauce is made by adding lemon juice and a liaison to either a veal or chicken veloute. (The stock used depends lIpon the dish with which the sauce will be served.) Supreme sauce is made by adding cream 10 a chicken veloute. See Table 10.4. A properly made veloUle should be rich, smooth and lump-free. If made from chicken or fish stock, it should taste of chicken Of fish. A veloute made from veal stock should have a more neutr.:ll ila\'or. TIle sauce should be il"OI}' colored. with a deep luster. It should be thick enough to cling to foods without tasting like the roux used to thicken it.
TABLE
10.4 "'" VnOUTE
Fish stock Chicken stock Chicken stock Veal stock
+ + + +
Roux Roux Roux Roux
= = = =
SAUCLS Ve!OU!C Vcloutc Veloutc Vdolile
+ + +
Supreme
Liairon and lemon
= =
Liaison and lemon
=
Allemande
Cream
AHemandc
STOC!<SANDSAUCFS
RECIPE 10.B
VELOurE Y
Boz. Boz.
Chicken, veal or fish stock Salt and white ~pper
n
5 qt.
250 ml 250 g 5 It
n
l. ~!elt the butter in a he:lvy s:lw::ep:ln. Add the flour and cook to m:.ke :l
blond roux. 2 Gr.tdually add the stock to the roux, stirring constantly with a whisk to prerenl lumps. Bring to a boil :lnd reduce to a simmer. (Seasonings are option31; their use depends upon the seasonings in the stock and the sauce's intended use.) j. Simmer and reduce to I gallon (4 liters), approximately 30 minutes. t Strain through a chim. cap lined with cheesecloth. S. Melted butter may be c:trefully ladled over the surface of the sauce to pre\·t'Ill a skin from forming. Hold for service or cool in a water bath. ~imllt' \";lhJt'S ","or 1-01_ BO-g) servmg: ca lories 2;. Total fat I.; g. Sarunu ed fal t g. CholestmlI l mg. Sodium 140 mil. Total ca.rboh}"dr.ltes 2 g. Protein I g
Small Fisb l'elollte Sallces A few
sllIall sauces can be made from fish vcloute. The quantities given are
for I qu:tn (1 liter) fish veloute sauce. TIle final step for each recipe is to sea~
to taste with salt and pepper.
Bercy Saute 2 ounces (60 grams) finely diced shallots in butter. TIlen add 8 ounce~ (250 milliliters) dry white wine and 8 ounces (250 milliliters) fish ,lOCk. Reduce this mixture by one third and add the fish ve\outc. Finish wilh buller and garnish with chopped parsley. Cardinal Add 8 ounces (250 milliliters) fish stock to I quart (I liter) fis h I"doUle. Reduce this mixture by half and add I pint (500 milliliters) heavy cream and a dash of cayenne pepper. Bring to a boil and swirl in I 1/2 ounces m grams) lobster butter (page 211). Garnish with chopped lobster coml at «I\·ice time.
Normandy Add 4 ounces (120 grams) mushroom trimmings and 4 ounces !120 milliliters) fish stock to I quart (J liter) fish velou{e. Reduce by one third 1nd finish with an egg yolk and cream li:tison. Stmin through a fine chinois. ~
================
RECIPE 10.9
ALLEMANDE SAUCE 'field: I gal. (4 It)
\'eal or chicken veioutl! Egg yolks
~llIce
I gal.
4 It
8
8 COlllilllled
I'e/oli le
.......
199
200 C"""\!l.
CIW'1'ER 10
l'leavy cream Lemon juice Salt and white pepper
24 oz. l oz. IT
675 ml 30m] 1T
1. Bring the veloute to a simmer. 2. In a srainless sleel bowl, whip the egg yolks with the cream to create
3. 4.
5. 6.
a.
aison. Ladle approximately one third of the hO{ veloute sauce imo this mil. ture, while whisking, to temper the yolk and cream mixture. When one third of the veloute has been incorpor.:lted into the now.warmed yolk and cream mixture, gradu:tlly add the liaison to the remaining \'eIOlJlt sauce while whisking continuously. Reheat the sauce. Do nOt let it boil. Add the lemon juice; season with salt and white pepper to taste, Strain through a china cap lined with cheesecloth.
Approximale values per l-oz. C~O·g) 5CIVing: Calories 40, TOla l fat 3.5 g. SaturalOO fal 2 8, ChoI& terol 2; mg, Sodium 95 mg, To tal carbo hydrates 1 g, f'rolein 1 g, Vllam; n A 4%
SmaltAllemallde Sauces Several small sauces are easily produced from an allemande sauce made wilh either a chicken or veal veloute. TIle quantities given are for 1 quail (] liter) allemande. TIle final step for each recipe is to season 10 taste with sU and pepper. Aurora Add to allemande 2 ounces (60 grams) tomato paste and 6ni4t with 1 ounce GO grams) bulter. Horseradish Add to allemande 4 ounces ( 120 milliliters) heavy cream ard I teaspoon C5 milliliters) dry mustard. Just before service add 2 ounces (60 gramsl freshly grated horseradish. TIle horseradish should not be cooked with the 5a1K't'
Mushroom Saute 4 ounces (I20 grams) sliced mushrooms in 1/2 ounce (IS grams) butter; add 2 teaspoons (10 milliliters) lemon juice. Then add til allemande to the mushrooms. Do not stnlin. Paulette Saute 8 ounces (250 grams) sl iced mushrooms and 112 ounce in ! ounce GO grams) butter. Add to the allemande: then add 2 ounces (60 milliliters) heavy cream. Finish with lemon juice and I tablespoon 0; milliliters) chopped parsley.
05 grams) diced shallots
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 10. 10
Supl/£ME SAUCE Yield: I gal. (4 It) Chicken veloute sauce !\Iushroom trimmings Heavy cream Salt and white pepper
I gal. 8 oz. I qt.
IT
4 ], 225 g 1 ], 1T
1. Simmer the veloute sauce with tbe mushroom trimmings until reduced ~' one fourth. 2. Gradually whisk in the heavy cream and return to a simmer.
STDCKSANDSAUCP.5 ~ 201 j. Adjust the seasonings. 4. Slmin through a china cap lined with cheesecloth.
per I-oz. (3O.g) secving: Calories 45, Tow fat 4 g, s..tun.ted fat 2.5 g. CbolesIS mg. Sodium 95 mg. Toul carboh)·dn.tes I g, Protein I g. Vitamin A #6
!tppOmll1t ,,,lues
_
Small Supreme Sauces The following small &1Uces are easily made from a supreme sauce. TIle quantities given are for 1 quart (1 liter) supreme sauce. TIle final step for each n'fipt' is to <;(>~<;Qn to [:ISl e w ith s~lt and perper Albufera Add to supreme 3 ounces (90 milliliters) glace de volaille and 2 ounces (60 grams) red pepper butter (page 212). Hungarian Sweat 2 ounces (60 gr3ms) diced onion in 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) bUller. Acid I tablespoon (15 milliliters) paprika. Stir in the supreme S3uce. Cook for 2-3 minutes, strain and finish with butter. h'ory Add to supreme 3 ounces (90 milliliters) glace de volaille.
TbeEsjJlIgllole (Brown Sauce) Family BROWN srOCK
Brown Sauce
Gl3ce de Viande
Mlrrhand til' Vin
Chasseur
Chateaubri:md
Demi-glace
Jus Lie (Fond Lie)
I
I
MadeirA
Mushroom
CharCUlcrie
Perigueux
Bordelaise
Poivrade
Piquante
The mother sauce of the espagnole or brown sauce family is full-bodied and rich. It is made from brown stock to which brown roux, mirepoix and IOmatO puri.'e are 3dded. Most often this sauce is used to produce demi-glace. Brown slOck is also used to make jus lie. Dcmi-glace and jus lie are intermediary 'i3uces used to create the small &1UCeS of the espagnole family.
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 10 . 11
ESPAGNOLE
(BROWN SAUCE) ' id d: 1 gal. (4 It)
Mirepoix, medium dice darified butter Fio", Brown stock
2 lb. 8 oz. 8 oz.
S ql.
1 kg 250 ml 250 g Sit COl/linlled
espagllQle
Chevreuil
Pon
202
~
CHAPl'ER !O Tomato pun..Se Sachet: Bay leaf Dried thyme Peppercorns, crushed Parsley stems Salt and pepper
8 oz.
I 1/2 tsp.
250 g 2 ml I ml
1/4 tsp. 8
8
IT
IT
J. $.1ute the mirepoix in butter until well caramelized. 2. Add the flour and cook to make :I brown roux. 3. Add the brown stock and tomato puree. Stir 10 break up any lumps d roux. Bring to a boil; reduce 10 a simmer. 4. Add the sachet. 5. Simmer for approximately I 1/2 hours, allowing the sauce to reduce. Skim the surface as needed to remove impurities. 6. Str:lin the sauce through a chin:1 cap lined with several layers of cheestcloth. Adjust seasonings and cool in a water b.:1tll or hold for service. Approxinl.lle v~lues po...... 1-.07.. (3O.g) serving: Calo ries 35, Tota l flit 2 g. Sal\J ratcd fat I g, Choltsterol 5 mg, Sodiu m 150 mg, To t:!.1 C"M bo hyd ratcs 4 g, Protei n I 1(. Vitamin A 6%. Claims-lend. low c:doric
Demi-Glace Brown stock is used to make the espagnole or brown sauce described e2!". lier. Espagnole sauce can then be made into demi-glace, which in llIm is used to make the small sauces of the espagnole family. Demi-glace is half brown sauce, half brown SlOck, reduced by half. It is usually finished with a snull amO\Jnt of madeira or sherry wine. Because demi-glace creates a richer, more flavorful base, it produces finer small sauces than those made directly from 1 brown sauce. A properly made demi-glace is rich, smooth and lump-free. Its prominm roaSted flavor comes from Ihe bones used for the brown stock. TIlere should be no taste of roux. The caramelized bones and mirepoix as well as the tomato product contribute to its glossy dark brown, almost chocol:ue, color. It should be thick enough to cling (0 food without being pasty or heavy.
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 10. 12
D EAll-GLACE Yield: 1 qt. (1 It) Brown stock Brown sauce
I qt. I qt.
l it l it
1. Combine the stock and sauce in a saucepan over medium heat. 2. Simmer until the mixture is reduced by half (a yield of I quart or I liter). 3. Strain and cool in a water bath.
Demi-Gltlcc
IIpproxilll.lle values per l oo(}l,. (30-g) serving: Calone!! 30, Toul b t 1.5 g. Satura led f3t .5 g. Cholt:stcroi 5 mg, Sodium 200 mg, Tout ~rbob}'drale!! " g, Protein 1 g. Vitamin A Ii%, c~ [:It Iov.' nlorie
SlOClCjANDSAUCES ,"""
",lie
Jus lit. also known as fond lie, is used like a demi-glace, especially to prom small sauces, Jus lie is lighter and easier to make than a demi-glace, howCltr
II is made in one of IWO ways:
I. ,\ rich brown slOck is thickened with cornstarch or arrowroot and seamed. 1 Arich brown stock is simmered and reduced so that it thickens naturally because of the concentraled amOunts of gel:tlin and other proteins.
The starch-thickened method is a quick alternative [0 the long-simmering demi-glace. But because il is simply a brown stock thickened with cornstarch «arrowroot. il will only be as good as the stock with which it was begun. Sauces made from reduced stock usually have a better flavor but can be expensil'e to produce because of high food costs and lengthy reduction time. Aproperly made jus lie is very rich and smooth. [\ shares many flavor characterislics with demi-glace. Its color should be dark brown and glossy from the roocentr;llcd gelatin coment. Its consistency is somewhat lighter than demiJixe. but it should still ding lightly to foods.
Small BrowlI Sauces Demi-glacc and jus lie are used to produce many small sauces. The quantiiesgil'en are for 1 quart (1 liler) demi-glace or jus lie. The final step for each recipe is to season to L1ste with salt and pepper. Bordelaise Combine I pint (250 milliliters) dry red wine, 2 ounces (60 shaJlQ{s. 1 bay leaf, 1 sprig thyme and a pinch of black pepper in a saucepan. Reduce b)' three fourths , then add demi-glace and simmer for 15 minutes. Strain through a fine chinois. Finish with 2 ounces (60 grams)
pm) chopped
.-boIe buner and garnish with sliced, poached beef marrow. Chasseur (Hllnler'S Sauce) Saute 4 ounces (120 grams) sliced mush-
rooms and I tablespoon 05 milliliters) diced shallots in butter. Add 8 ounces (250 milliliters) white wine and reduce by three founhs. Then add demi-glace
and 6 ounces (170 grams) diced tomatoes; simmer for 5 minutes. Do not strain. Garnish with chopped IXlrsley.
Wteaubriand Combine I pint (500 milliliters) dry white wine and 2 ounces (60 grams) diced sh:lllots. Reduce the mixture by two thirds. Add demi-
glace and reduce by half. Season to taste with lemon juice and cayenne pcpper Do nOl strain. Swirl in 4 ounces (120 grams) butter to finish and garnish "th chopped fresh larragon. CbevreuiJ Prepare a poivrade sauce but add 6 ounces (170 grams) bacon cr game trimmings to the mirepoix. Finish with 4 ounces (120 milliliters) red "ine and a dash of C'J)'ennc pepper. Madeira or Port Bring dcmi-gl:lCe to a boil, reduce slightly_ Then add 4 oonces (120 milliliters) 1lI.adeim wine or mb)' pon. Marchand de Yin Reduce 8 ounces (250 milliliters) dry red wine and 2 (60 grams) diced shallots by two thirds. Then add demi-g\ace, simmer and strain. OO!lC't:i
Mushroom Blanch 8 ounces (250 gr:ams) mushroom caps in 8 ounces USO milliliters) boiling water seasoned with salt and lemon juice. Drain the mushrooms, s:lVing Ihe liquid. Reduce this liquid to 2 tablespoons (30 millilitm) and add it to the demi-gi:tcc. Just before service stir in 2 ounces (60 gralllSl buner and the mushroom caps.
203
204 c""0..
CIIJJ'l7]R!O
== ~ == POfVlW)E POUR GIBlER
Poivrnde is also the name given a fial'orfu! sauce traditionally made 'With game stock and seasoned \\ith peppercom5. It is used for the wonderful Sauce Grand 1'f'lIeur, one of the most complex small sauces in the cl~ic repertoire. For Grand Iblellr, game stock is flal"Ored II-ith demi-glace and finished \\ith cream and currant jelly. The sweetness balances the strong flavor of the game mealS.
Perigueux Add finely diced truffles to madeira S.1Uce. Perigourdinr sauce is the same, except that the truffles are cut inlo relatively thi
The 7'omato Sauce Family TOMATO SAUCE
Creole
Gastnque---<arameliz«1 sugar degIa::etI u.'iJb ";1Iegar; ,i.std /() flO/.or tomato or sowry j,."i/
souces.
Spanish
Milamise
Classic tomaro sauce is made fram tomatoes, vegetables, seasonings and whit stock and thickened with a blond or brown raux. In today's kitchens, how{'\"t!. mOSt tomato sauces are nOl thickened with raux. Rather, they are created fTOOl tomatoes, herbs, spices, vegetables and other flavoring ingredients simmered together and pureed. A gastrique is sometimes added to reduce the acidity of a tomato sauce. To prepare a gastrique, caramelize a small amount of sugar, thal thin or deglaze with vinegar. This mixture is then used to finish the tomato sauce. A properly made tomatO sauce is thick, rich and full-flavored. Its teXlU.'t should be grainier than mOst OIher classic sauces, but it should still be smoodL TIle vegetables and other seasonings should add flavor, but none should pronounced. Tomato sauce should not be bitter, acidic or overly sweet. u should be deep red and thick enough to cling to foods.
============ ~ =========== RECI PE 10. 13
TOlftAIO SAUCE Yield: 1 gal. (4 It)
Salt pork, small dice Mirepoix
4 oz. I lb. 8 oz.
120 g 750 g
STOCIS AND SAUCES
Tomato, fresh or canned Tomato puree
3 qt. 2 qt.
3lt 2 II
Dried thyme
1 tsp.
5 ml
fuy lea\'es
3 3
3
("'\!\,
205
S:lchet:
Garlic cloves Parsley stems Peppercorns, crushed Sol! Sugar \\llite stock Pork bones
3
10
10
1/2 tsp. I 1/2 oz.
3 ml
45 g
3/4 oz. 3 qt.
20 g 3 It
2 lb.
1 kg
I. Passing the sauce through a food
mill.
1. Render the salt pork over medium heat.
2. Add the mirepa ix and sautc, but do not brown. j. Add the tomatoes and tomato puree, sachet, 5.11t and sugar. 4. Add the while stock :md bones . .s. Simmer slowly for 1/2 to 2 hours or until the desired consistency has been reached. ~ Remove the bones and sachet, and pass the sauce through a food mill. Cool in a water bmh and refrigerate. ~1I1\.:ue '"l11lCS per t-oz. (3().g) sCT\"ing: Calories 30, Toul r;lt .5 g, SatUr:lted {;It .2 g, Chutes· wroI • rug, Sodium 240 mg, Total c:ubohydn les 4 g. Protein "2 g. Vitamin A (M, Cbims-!ow 1M. ~. C
2. The finished 5.1uce.
Small TOll/aID Stmces The following small sauces are made by adding the listed ingredients 10 1 quart (] liter) tomato ~Iu ce. TIle final step for each recipe is to season to taste \\ilh s.1h and pepper.
Creole Saute 6 ounces (170 grams) finely diced onion, 4 ounces (120 grams) Ihin!~' sliced celery and 1 teaspoon (S milliliters) garlic in 1 ounce (30 milliliters) oil. Add tomato sauce, a bay lea f and a pinch of thyme; simmer for ); minutes. Then add 4 ounces (120 grams) finely diced green pepper and a w.lh of hot pepper saucei simmer for 15 minutes longer. Remove bay leaf. Milanaisc Saute 5 ounces (140 grams) sliced mushrooms in 1/2 ounce (15 grams) butter. Add tomato sauce and (hen stir in 5 ounces (140 grams) cooked ham (julienne) and S ou nces (140 grams) cooked tongue (julienne). Bring (0 a simmer. Spanish Prepare creole S:lUce as directed, adding 4 ounces (120 grams) mushrooms (0 the saut£:>e
~iced
oli\'es,
TbeHoIlalldaise Family HOLI.ANDAISE
Be:unaisc
Charon
FoyO!
Grimrod
Mousseline
Maltaise
206
~~
CHAPffR
10
Emulsiftcation-lbe process by 14M getterally ulImi:ro!Jk liquids sudJ as oil ami water are forced il1/0 a uniform distribution.
Hollandaise and the small sauces derived from it arc emulsified sauces. Egg yolks, which contain large amounlS of lecilhin. a narural emulsifier, are used to emulsify warm bUller and a small amount of water, lemon juice or vinegar By vigorously whipping Ihe egg yolks with the liquid, while slowly adding the warm butter, the lecithin coalS Ihe individual oil droplets and holds them in suspension in Ihe liquid. A properly made hollandaise is smooth, butte!)', pale lemon-yellow colored and very rich. II is lump-free and should not exhibit any signs of separation. The buttery navor should dominate but not mask the navors of the egg. lemon and vinegar. The sauce should be frolhy and light, not heavy like a mayonnaise
Temperatures and Sanitation Concerns Temperatures play an important role in Ihe proper production of 3 hol· landaise sauce. As the egg yolks and liquid are whisked together, they are cooked over a bain marie until they Ihicken to the consistency of slight!)· whipped cream. Do not overheat Ihis miXTure because even slightly cooked eggs lose their ability to emulsify. The clarified bUller used to make the sauce should be warm but not so hot as to further cook the egg yolks. Allhough hollandaise sauce can be made from whole bUlTcr, a more stable and consistent produa \\iU be achieved by using clarified bUller. (Clarification is described in Chapter 8, Dairy Products.) Emulsified butter sauces mUSt be held at the specific temperatures most conducive to bacterial groMh: 40°F-140°F (4°C-60°C). If the sauce is heated above 150°F C65°C), the eggs will cook and the sauce will break and become grainy. If the sauce temperature falls below 45°F (7°C), the bUller will solidif)', making the sauce unusable. In order to minimize the risk of food-borne i1lnesses: 1. Always use clean. sanitized utensils. 2. Schedule s.1uce production as dose to the time of service as possiblt Never hold hollandaise-based S:l\.lCes more than I 1/2 hOUTS. j. Make small batches of sauce. 4. Never mix an old sallce with a new one. With practice, classic hollandaise can be produced quickly and efficientl)·. Nevertheless, a recipe for blender hollandaise is included for those operations with a need for this technique.
Procedure Jor Rescliing a Broken Hollandaise Occasionally, a hollandaise will break or separate and appear thin, grain)" or even lumpy. A sallee breaks when the emulsion has nO! fanned or the emulsified butter, eggs and liquid have separated. This may happen for several re:lsons: 'nle temperature of the eggs or butter may Imve been 100 high OriOO low; the bUller may have been added 100 quickly; Ihe egg yolks may hare been overcooked; too much buller may have been added or the sauce may not have been whipped vigorousl}' enough. To rescue
sroas AND ~UCES
~
207
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 10. 14
HOllANDAISE '"kId: 1 1 '2 ql. (1.5 It)
Ifhile peppercorns, crushed illite wine vinegar \laler Egg yolks
6al. 4 oz. 10
Lemon juice Oari~ed bUller, warm Salt and while pepper Carenne pepper
2 1/2 oz. 1 q1. IT IT
1/2 tsp.
2 IllI 180 ml 120 ml 10 75 ml 1 It IT IT
/. Combine the peppercorns, vinegar and water in a small saucepan and reduce by one half.
1. Place the egg yolks in a stainless steel bowl. Strain the vinegar and pepper reduction through a chinois, into the yolks. 1 place the bowl over a double boiler, whipping the mixture continuously \\'I[h a wire whip. As the yolks cook, the mixture will thicken. When the mixrure is thick enough 10 leave a trail across the surface when the whip i.s drawn away, remove the bowl from the double boiler. Do not overcook the egg yolks. t IJ.nip in 1 ounce (30 milliliters) lemon juice [0 stop the yolks from cooking. " Begin 10 add the waml clarified butter to the egg yolk mixture a drop at a time, while constantly whipping the mixture to form an emulsion. Once the emulsion is started, the butter may be added more quickly. Continue until all the butter is incorporated. 6. \rhip in the remaining lemon juice. Adjust the seasonings with salt, white pepper and cayenne pepper. 7. Slmin the sauce through cheesecloth if necessary and hold for service in a wann (not simmering) bain marie. J. I.pflnl.IIII\J.IC I"alueti per !-oQZ. (JO.g)-scrl'ing: CalorlClll 170, Total fat 18 g, Saturated fat II g, Cho· IewroJ 9(1 mg, Sodlulll 180 mg, Total carbohr dr:ucs 0 g. Protein 1 g, Vitamin A 20%
1. \\nipping the mixture o\'er a double boiler until it is thiCk enough to leave a trail when the whip is removed.
.J. Using a kitchen towel and sau.cepot 10 firmly hold the bowl containing the yolks, add the butter slowly while whipping continuously.
Combining the egg yolks with the vinegar and pepper reduction in a stainless steel bowl.
4. Hollandaise:lI the proper conSistency.
208 C"\!\..
CHAPl'ER!O
============= ~ ============ RECIPE 10,15
HOllANDAISE, BLENDER METHOD Yield: 1 qt. (I It) Egg yolks Water, warm Lemon juice Cayenne pepper Salt White pepper Tabasco sauce Whole butter
9 3 oz. 1 oz.
9 90mi 30mi
IT
IT
1 {Sp. 1/4 tsp.
5 ml
IT
IT
24 oz.
750 ml
I ml
1. Place the egg yolks, water, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, salt, white pepper and Tabasco sauce in the bowl of the blender. Cover and blend 00 high speed for approximately 5 seconds. 2. Heat the bUller to approximately 175°F (8O"c). This allows the butter to cook the yolks as it is added 10 them. 3. Turn the blender on and immediately begin 10 add the butter in a slea~' stream. Incorporate all the butter in 20 10 30 seconds. Adjust the sea· sonings. 4. If any lumps are present, strain the sauce through cheesecloth. Transfer the sauce to a stainless steel conta iner and adjust the seasonings. Hold fa service in a bain marie, remembering the sanitation precamions discussed earlier. Approximate values per ]..oz. (30-g) serving, Calories 120, Total fal 12 g, Saluratl.'(! fat 7 g, Chob lerai 70 mg. Sodium 170 mg, Total carbohydrale5 0 g. Prote in 1 g, Vitamin A 15%
Small Hollandaise Sauces The following small sauces are easily made by adding the listed ingredienb to I quart (1 liter) of hollandaise. The final step for each reCipe is to season to taste with salt and pepper. Bearnaise is presented here as a small sauce al· though some chefs consider it a leading sauce. Bearnaise Combine 2 ounces (60 grams) chopped shallots, 5 tablespoo!lS (75 milliliters) chopped fresh tarragon, 3 tablespoons (45 milliliters) chopped fresh chervil and 1 teaspoon (5 milliliters) crushed peppercorns with 8 ounces (250'milliliters) white wine vinegar. Reduce to 2 ounces (60 milliliters)' Add this redudion to the egg yolks and proceed with the hollandaise recipe. Strain the finished sallce and season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper. Garnish wilh additional chopped fres h tarragon.
sroc~ANDSAUCFS
~
209
(boron Combine 2 ounces (60 grams) tomato paste and 2 ounces (60 heavy cream; add the mixture to a bearnaise. fo)'Ot Add to bearnaise 3 ounces (90 milliliters) melted glace de viande. Grimrod Infuse a hollandaise sauce with saffron.
Ilahaise Add to hollandaise 2 ounces (60 milliliters) orange juice and 2 (10 milliliters) finely grated orange zest. Blood oranges are tradir:mUy used for this sauce. ~ns
Mousseline (Chantilly sauce)
Whip 8 ounces (250 milliliters) heavy
atam umil stiff. Fold it into the hollandaise just before service. l\'lousseline 5lIICe is also used as a gla~age coating.
Gla~age-brtJtmillg or glazillg afoot/, usually wukr a salamallder or broiler.
Beurre Blanc and Beurre Rouge Beurre blanc and beurre rouge are emulsified butter sauces made without egg
,aks. The small amounts of lecithin and other emulsifiers naturally found in Mler are used to foml an oil-in-water emulsion. Although similar to hollandaise in concept, they are not considered either classic leading or com]XlUlld sauces. I3eurre blancs are thinner and lighter than hollandaise and bearmise. They should be smooth and slightly thicker than heavy cream. Beurre blanc and beurre rouge are made from three main ingredients: shal- BeUITe Noir French jar "black buller·; USIXi Os. white (Fr. blanc) wine or red (Fr. rouge) wine and whole butter (not dar- /() describe u"bole buller woied u'lliI dark brou71 bIad); sometimes jlawrtd u:jlb villegar or mI). The shallots and wine provide flavor, while Ihe buner becomes the sauce. (nol lemon juice, copers alld parsley alld senwJ Ot:er Agood beurre blanc or beurre rouge is rich and buttery, with 3 neutral flavor fob, eggs and t-egelables. that responds well to Other seasonings and flavorings, thereby lending itself 10 BeUITe Noisene--Frenchjar ''brou71 buller·; tilt addition of herbs, spices and vegetable purees to complement the dish with used /() desr:ribe buller cxdtJ until iI is a JigbI I"bich it is served. Its pale color changes depending upon the flavorings added. broun aJior;jlat'Offli alld tlSt'd in much the lame malltler OJ beurre 1Iair: ~ slKJuld be light and airy yel still liquid, while thick enough to ding 10 food. IrxIDURE fOR PREPARlNG BEURRE BIMC OR BEURRE ROUGE I. L'se a nonaluminurn pan to prevent discoloring the sauce. Do nOI use a
thin-walled or nonstick pan, as heat is not evenly distributed in a thinIralled pan and a nonstick pan makes it difficult for an emulsion to set. 2. Over medium heat, reduce the wine, shallots and herbs or other seasonings, if used, until au sec (that is, nearly dry). Some chefs add a small amount of heavy cream at this point and reduce the mixture . ..lJthough not necessary, the added cream helps stabilize the finished sauce. j, Whisk in cold butter a small amount at a time. The butter should be well cbilled, as this allows the butterfat , water and milk solids to be gradually incorporated into the sauce as the butter melts and the mixture is whisked. 4. When all the bUller is incorporated, strain and hold the sauce in a baln marie.
TtrIrperature I)) 001 let the sauce become too hot. At 1}6°F (SSOC) some of the emulsifyIIg proteins begin to break down and release the butterfat mey hold in emul1Dl. Extended periods at temperatures over 136°F (58°C) will cause the sauce kl separate. If the sauce separates, it can be corrected by cooling to approximately 1I0°F-120QF (43Qc-49"C) and whisking 10 reincorporate the butterfat. If the sauce is allowed to cool below 85QF (30QC), the butterfat will solidify. f the sauce is reheated it will separate into butterfat and waterj whisking witl 001 re-emulsify it. Cold beurre blanc can be used as a soft, flavored butter, however, simply by whisking it at room temperature unlil it smoothes out to die consistency of mayonnaise.
210
,~
C1W'TER 10
RECIPE 10. 16
BEURRE BlANC Yield: 1 qt. (J 11) \'(Thite wine White wine vinegar
Salt White pepper ShallOlS, minced
Whole buner, chilled
1 oz.
109
4 oz.
120 ml
I 1/2 (SP,
7 ml 2 ml 45 ml I kg
1/2 (Sp. 3 Thsp. 21b.
1. Combine the white wine, white wine vinegar, salt, while pepper and ,hj.
lOIS in a small saucepan. Reduce the mb.::ture unlil approximately 2 ta'orspoons (30 milliliters) of liquid remain. If more Ih:m 2 (llblespoons of ~ uid are allowed to remain, the resulting sauce will be 100 thin. For a 1hide sauce, reduce the mixture au sec. 2. CUI the butter inla pieces approximately 1 ounce (30 grams) in wtigk
Over low heat, whisk in the buller a few pieces at a time, using the chilkd buner to keep the sauce between lOO"F and 120Q F (43"C-49°C). j.
Once all the bUller has been incorporated, remove the saucepan from dr heat. Strain through a chinois and hold the sauce between lOO°F and (38°C-54°C) for service.
,.wi
V ARL"'-l10NS: LemOIl-DilI-Heat 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) lemon juice :tI'L whisk it into the beurre bbnc. Stir in 4 tablespoons (60 milliliters) choppr
Approximale v,!.I Ue5 per l-oz. BO"g) serv'l"lg: Calo ries 210. Tow {,u 23 g, S:nur.lti'd {at leste rot 60 mg, Sodium 340 mg. Total carbohrdrates 0 g, hOldn 0 g, Vitamin A 20010
1. Reducing the shallots and wine
all sec.
2. \,\,'hisking in the cold butler a liule
at a lime.
3. Straining the sauce.
l~
8- QI.
STDCfSANDSAUCES C"'!a. 211
Acompound buner is made by incorporating \'arious seasonings into softened ..oole butter. These butters, also known as bellrres composes, give flavor and w to small sauces or may be served as sauces in their own right. For ex1IIpIe. a slice of maitre d'hotel butter (parsley buner) is oflen placed on a pied 51.eak or piece of fish at the time of service. The butter quickly melts, Crtlting a sauce for Ihe beef or fish. Butter and flavoring ingredients can be combined with a blender, food pocessor or mixer. Using parchment paper or plastic wrap, the butler is then It&! into a cylinder, chilled and sliced as needed. Or it can be piped into lOSt'Ites and refrigerated until firm. Most compound bulters will keep for two kl three d1)'S in the refrigerator, or they can be frozen for longer storage .
,•
I. Placing lhe butter on the plastic wrap.
2. Rolling the butler in the plastic wrap to form a cylinder.
Recipes/or Compound Butters For each of the following butlers, add the listed ingredients to 1 pound (500 grams) of softened, unsalted butler. TIle compound buner should then be seamed with salt and pepper to taste.
Basil Bulter Mince 2 ounces (60 grams) basil and 2 ounces (60 grams) 5ballots; add to the butler with 2 teaspoons (10 milliliters) lemon juice. Herb Buner Add to the bulter up to 1 cup (250 milliliters) of mixed cOOpped fresh herbs such as parsley, dill, chives, tarragon or chervil. lobster or Crayfish Butter Grind 8 ounces (250 grams) cooked lobster cra}fish meal, shells andlor coral with 1 pound (SO() grams) bulter. place in J saucepan and clarify. Strain the buner through a fine chinois lined with dieesetlcxh. Refrigerate, then remove the bunerfa! when firm. (J
Maitre d'H6tel Mix intQ the bulter 4 tablespoons (60 milliliters) finely chopped parsley, 3table~poons (45 milliliters) lemon juice and a dash of white p'pp".
Montpelier l3lanch 1 ounce (30 grams) parsley, 1 ounce (30 grams) chefvil, 1 ounce (30 grams) watercress and 1 Ollnce (30 grams) tarragon in
212
~,
CIIAPlF.R 10
boiling waler. Drain thoroughly. Mince two hard-boiled egg yolks, twO garIt cloves and two gherkin pickles. Blend everything into the buner. Red Pe p per Puree 8 ounces (250 grams) roasted, peeled red bell pepperl until liquid, then add to the butler. Shallot Butter Blanch 8 ounces (250 grams) of peeled shallots in boiling water. Dry and finely dice them and mix with the butter.
Pan Gravy Pan gravy is aptly named: It is made directly in the pan used to roast the poo\try, beef, lamb or pork that the gravy will accompany. Pan gravy is aauallp sauce; it is a liquid thickened with a roux. Pan gravy gains additional nmn from the drippings left in the roasting pan and by using a ponion of the f.l rendered during the roasting process to make the raux. TIlis technique is U5t'd in Recipe 17.3, Roast Turkey with Giblet Gravy. A properly made pan gravy should have all the characteristics of any bro'll sauce except that it has a meatier flavor as a result of the pan drippings. PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING PAN GRAVY I . Remove the cooked meat or poultry from the roasting pan. 2. If mirepoix was not added during the roasting process, add it to the pan containing the drippings and fat. 3. Place the roasting pan on the stove top and clarify the fat by cooking off any remaining moisture. 4. Pour off the fat , reserving it to make the roux. 5. Deglaze the pan using an appropriate stock. The deglazing liquid may be transferred to a saucepan for easier handling, or the gravy may be finished directly in the roasting pan. 6. Add enough stock or water to the deglazing liquid to yield the proper amount of fin ished gravy. 7. Determine the amount of roux needed to thicken the liquid and prepare it in a separate pan, using a portion of the reserved faL 8. Add the roux to the liquid and bring the mixture to a simmer. Simmer until the mirepoix is well cooked, the flavo r is extracted and the flour taste is cooked out. 9. Strain the gravy and adjust the seasonings.
Cau/is The term coulis most often refers to a sauce made from a puree of vegetables andl or fmit. A vegetable coulis can be served as either a hot or a cold ac· companiment to other vegetables, starches, meat, poultry, fish or shellfish. It is often made from a single vegetable base (popular examples include broccoli tomatoes and sweet red peppers) cooked with flavoring ingredients such as onions, garlic, shallots, herbs and spices and then pureed. An appropriate Uq· uid (stock, water or cream) may be added to thin the puree if necessary. Veg· etable coulis are often prepared with very little fat and served as a healthyal· ternative to a heavier, classic sauce. A fruit coulis, often made from fresh or frozen berries, is generally used as a dessen sauce. It is usually as simple as pureed fmit thinned to the desired consistency with sugar syrup. Typically, both vegetable and fruit coulis have a texture similar to that ci thin tomato sauce. But their textures can range from slightly grainy to almost lumpy, depending on their intended use. The flavor and color of a coulis
STOCfSANDSAUCES ~
llkl be thai of the main ingredient. TIle flavors of herbs, spices and olher roring ingredienlS should only complement and nO{ dominate Ihe coulis. PmnuRE FOR PREPARING A CoUUs "itre. we include a procedure for making a vegetable coulis. Procedures for
13klng fnlit coulis are included as recipes in Chapter 34, Custards, Creams, • UA'f\
IA.>sserts and Dessen Sauces.
I. Cook the main ingredient and any additional flavoring ingredients with an Jppropri:uc liquid. l Purt'C the main ingredient and flavoring ingredients in a food mill, blender (Y food processor. j. Comhine the puree with the :tppropriate liquid and simmer 10 blend the Hal·ors. -/. Thin and season the coulis as desired.
= == = = = -.:o,rr-, = = = = = =
•
-
RECIPE 10.17
.:1.
RED PEPPER COullS
\'ieiIL I ql. (! II)
\"rgt1Jble oil Garlic, chopped Onion, small dice Rnl bell pepper, medium dice \l"hilc wine Chicken stock Salt and pepper
loz. 2tsp. 3 oz.
30ml 10 ml
90g
1 pI.
1.25 kg 250 ml 450 ml
n
n
3 lb.
8 oz.
1. Sauteing the red peppers.
I. Heal the oil and saute the garlic and onion until translucent, without
l j.
t
5. l
browning. Add the red pepper and saute until tender. Deglaze the pan with the white wine. Add the chicken stock, bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Purl'e in a blender or food processor and strain through a china cap. Adju5Ithe conSistency and seasonings and hold for service.
,.;=~
..,Iues per l-oz. <30-g) serving, Caion e! 20, TOlal fal
2, Pureeing the cooked peppers.
I g, Saru raled fal 0 g, COOI('5-
I!roI ~ ~ SodIu m 45 mg, Total carboh)'dralt'5 2 g, PrOldn ] g. Vllamin C 50% , CIalms --low .,.,. """"m;low calOrie
Conlempol'alY Sauces ~lodt:m
chefs and menu writers are relying less on traditional sauces and more relishes, juicest broths, essences and infused oils in their work. Unlike d.h~ic sauces, these modern atcompanimenlS do not rely on meat-based stocks ~OO starch thickeners, but rather on fresh vegetables, vegetable juices, :lromatic broth:; and intensely flavored oils. The names for these sauces are not codified, JS art' those in the classic sauce repertoire. Chefs apply various terms freely, :..\IIlg wha!e\-et name best filS the dish and the overall menu. Most of these conIt'mpomry sauces can be prepared more quickly than their classic counterparts, 00 ~Is::ls,
3. Straining Ihe coulis.
213
214
~
CHAPTER!O
and the use of fresh fruits and vegetables enhances the healthfulness of the dish. These so-called modern sauces may have a lighter body and less fat than dassic sauces, but they are still derived from classical culinary techniques and principles. The sauces should be appropriate in flavor, texture and appe'Jr.lnce and should complement, not overwhelm, the food they accompany. ChUiney--t1 SI/,w-find-SOllr condlmenl made of/mils, ~oege/able5 or both and cooked in m'neg(Ir Itifb sligar and spices 1111111 if bas a consistmC)' 0/
jam, Some cbllineys are redumi 10 a pllree; oIbers retaill reoJgflizable /fleeRS of their ingredients.
Salsa and Relish i\Iany people think of salsa (Spanish for ~sauce) as a chunky mixture of 1'3~ vegetables and chiles eaten with chips or ladled over Mexican food: they think of relish as a sweet green condiment spooned on a hot dog, But salsas aM relishes-generally, cold chunky mixtures of herbs, spices, fruits and/or wg· etables--can be used as sauces for many meat, poultry, fish and shellfi items. They can include ingredients such as oranges, pineapple, papaya. black beans, jicama, lOmatillos and an array of vegetables , Although not members of any classic sauce family, salsas and relishes are currently enjoying great popularity because of their intense fresh flavors, eased preparation and low fat and calorie content. Salsas and relishes are often a ria of colors, textures and flavo rs, simultaneously cool and hot, spicy and swee1. PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING A SAlSA OR REUSH
1. Cut or chop the ingredients. 2. Precook and chill items as directed in the recipe. 3. Toss all ingredients together and refrigerate, allowing the flavors to com-
bine for at least 30 minutes before service.
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 10.18
TOMATO SAL£4 (PleO DE GALLO) Yield: 1 qr. (I It) Tomatoes, seeded, small dice Green onions, sliced Garlic cloves, minced Cilantro, chopped Jalapeno peppers, chopped fine Lemon juice Cumin, ground Salt and pepper
5
5
1 bunch
1 bunch
3
3
1/2 bunch
112 bunch
3
3
2 oz. 1/2 tsp.
60ml 2 ml
IT
IT
1. Combine all ingredients and gently toss. Adjust seasonings and refrigel'3tt Mixing Tomato Salsa Approximate values per t-oz. (3(}-g) serving: Calories ), Total fat 0 g. Samrated fat 0 g. Cholailml o mg. Sodium 30 mg. Total carbohydrates! g. Protein 0 g. Claints-fat free; '.ery low sodiwn; )l. calOrie
Vegetable Juice Sauces Juice extractors make it possible to prepare juice from fresh , uncooked vegetables such as carrots, beets and spinach , Thinner and smoother than a puree. vegetable juice can be heated, reduced, flavored and enriched with butter to
SfOCfSAND!M.UCFS
!r3Ie colorful, imensely flavored sauces. Cream or stock can be added to finthe sauce. Sauces made from vegetable jllices are sometimes referred 10 as lI essence or tea on menus. Juice from a single type of vegetable provides the purest, most pronounced 131'01', but twO or more vegetables sometimes can be combined successfully. ~careful of mixing too many flavors and colors in the juice, however. Juiced ~ble sauces are particularly approprime with pasta, fish , shellfish and p:JJitr)', and can be useful in \'egetari:m cu isine or as a healthier alternative to ~k sauces.
PlocEoURE FOR PREPARING A VEG',ABLE JUICE SAUCE I. \rash and peel veget:lbles as needed. l. Process the veget:lbles through a juice extractor.
1 Place the juice in a saucepan and add stock, lemon juice, herbs or other t13l'Orings as dcsired. f. Bring the sauce 10 a simmer and reduce as necessary. J Strain the sauce through a fine chinois. , Adjust the seasonings and whisk in whole butter to finish. ~ ==============
RECIPE 10.1 9
THYME-SCENTED CELERY ESSENCE STOUFFER STANFORD COURT UOTEL, 5,,,,, FR"msco, CA Former Chef Erco/;"Q Cmg"ale
Yield: I ql. (I It) Celery juice Tomato juice Fresh thymc, chopped \'i'hole bUller Salt Talxtsco sauce
I qt. 1 pI. 1/2 oz. 6 oz. 11' 11'
lit 500 ml 15 g 180 g
11' 11'
J. Combine the celery juice, IOmato juice and thyme, Bring to simmer and reduce 10 1 1/2 pints (750 milliliters). 1 Whi:.k in the bUller and ad just the seasonings with sal! and Tabasco sauce. j, Slmin through a chino is, "'~k' '';llues per J-oz. (4 2-g) SCI\'mg' Caloric5 SO, Total fat 4.5 g, Saruratoo fat 2.4 g. thobteroI to mg, Sodium 200 mg, Tow carboh"dral(~ 2 g, Protein 0 g
Brolb Broth, which also appears on menus as a tea, au jus, essence or nage, is a thin, !U\'orfulliquid served in :t pool beneath the main food. The broth should nOl Ix'so abundant as 10 turn an entree into a soup, but it should provide moisture and flavor. TIle essence, broth o~ nage is often made by simply reducing and straining the liquid in which the main food was cooked. Alternatively, a specific:dly flavored stock, tomato, for example, can be prepared, then clarified like consomme to cre:l\e a broth or essence to accompany an appetizer or entree.
~
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216
t"'\!I..
CHAPTER 10
Flavored Oil Small amounts of intensely flavored oils can be used to dress or garnish a I,. riety of dishes. Salads, soups, vegetable and starch dishes, as well as ent~ can be enhanced with a drizzle of colorful, appropriately flavored oil. Becau.'l such small quantities are used, these oils provide flavor and moisture witlm adding too many calories or fat. Unless the fla voring ingredient goes especially well with olive oil (for example, basi!), select a high·quality, but neutral oil such as peanut, saffiower IX canola. Although flavoring ingredients can be simply steeped in oil for a tirrt a better way to flavor oil is to crush, puree or cook the fla\'oring ingredients fui.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING A FlAVORED OIL
1. Puree or chop fresh herbs, fruits or vegetables. Sweat dry spices or seeds. a small amount of oil to form a paste. 2. Place the selected oil and the flavoring ingredients in a jar or other tightly lidded container. 3. Allow the mixture to stand at room temperature until sufficient flavor is extracted. This may cake from I to 24 hours. Shake the jar periodically. Do not allow the flavoring ingredients to remain in the oil indefinitely, as il may become harsh or bitter. 4. Strain the oil through a chinois lined with a coffee fi lter. 5. Store the flavored oil in a covered container in the refrigerator.
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 10.20
SHALLOT CURRY OIL Yield: 8 oz. (225 ml)
Canola oil Shallot, minced Curry powder Water
8 oz.
225 ml
1
I
4 Thsp. 2 oz.
60ml 60ml
1. In a small saucepan, heat I tablespoon OS milliliters) of oil over mediWII heat. Add the shallot and saute until softened and translucent. Do nOt al\olr the shallot to brown. 2. Add the curry powder and saute for I to 2 minutes. 3. Stir in the water and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heal and simmer lI ntil mm!. of the water evapor:lIes. leavi n~ a paste of curry and shallots. 4. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining oil. 5. Place the mixture in a lidded jar and set aside at room temperature for6 to 8 hours. Shake the jar occasionally. 6. Strain the oil through a chinois lined with a coffee filt er. Place the f1a\"(xoi oil in a covered container and refrigerate until ready to use .
.
Approxim.a te va lues per l-oz. (31-g) .serving' Caklrie!! 208, Toul fat 23 g, Satur.lted fat 2 g, Chob terel 0 mg, Sodium I mg, Total carbohydrates I g, Protein 0 g. C1a1ms-no cholcstl"J"Oi; no sodi.II
..
,
Btrnamci
Qualities
Small Sauce or Flavorings
U'"
Smooth, rich and creamy; no ,
Cream sauce
Ve~c\ables, pasta, eggs, fish Vegetables, pasta Fish, shellfish, poultry, vegetables Fish, shellfish Veal, pork, eggs
graininess; cream-colored with rich sheen
Cheddar Momay
Nantua Soubise \tIout~
Smooth and rich; ivorycolored; good flavor of the stock used; not pasty or
heavy
Fish velOllte
B«'Y Cardinal Nonnandy
Poached fish
Lobster, white fish, crab, eggs Delicate white fish, oysters
Allemande (veal or chicken) Au,,",
Horseradish ,\Iushroom Poulette Supreme (chicken) Albufera
l3e'J.rnaise Charon FoyO!. Grimrod Mousseline Maltaise Wide variety of seasonings and flavorings may be used
Braised poultry. sweetbreads Eggs, chicken, chops, sweetbreads Eggs, braised poultry Sauteed or grilled mC:NS SaUteed or grilled meats and poultry Broiled meats Roasted meats and game Grilled or roasted mealS and game, h,m Sauteed or grilled mealS and poultry Sauteed poultry, grilled meats and game, sweetbreads Pork Grilled or roasted mealS, game Pork MC'JIS, poultry, vegetables, pasta and for making small sauce.s Fish, eggs, chicken Eggs, fish Pasta, grilled or sauteed poultry and while meats Grilled or sauteed meats and fish Grilled meats and fish Grilled UlealS and fish Eggs, poached fish Pooched fish, eggs, vegetables Poached fish Steamed, grilled or poached fish, chicken or vegetables
Wide variety of seasonings and flavorings may be used Made from pan drippings
Grilled meats, poultry and fish; fi nishing sauces Roasted meats and poultry
Made with a wide variety of vegetables or fruits
Vegetables, grilled or poached mealS, poultry and fish
Made with a wide variety of \'egetables, fruits and St"asonings Made with a variety of heros, spices and se1sonings
Meats, fish, vegetables and poult!)'; used as a sauce or condiment Used 3S a garnish
Hungarian
""'if'Ok
Smooth and rich; dark brown color; good meal flavor
1""'1' Bordelaise Chasseur Chateaubriand Chevreuil Madeira/ Pon Mushroom PcrigueuxiPerigourdine
TOmJIO
Thick and rich; slightly grainy; full-flavored
Piquant Poivrade Roben Tomato Creole Spanish Milanaise
Hollandaise
lleurre blanc and bcurre rouge ComlX>llnd butter
Pan gtJ\')' Coulis
SaL\3 and relish Fbvon.>d oil
Smooth :tnd rich; buttery flaval'; light and slightly frothy; pale yellow color; no signs of , separ:lIing
Rich and bunery; thinner than hollandaisc; light and :lif}'j pale-colored Fla\'or ingredients should be evenly distributed SmOOth: deep rich color; mealy flavor Rich coJor; mcxlerately Ihin, grainy texture; strongly fla\'ored Chunky: blight colors; not watery SmOOth; bright colors; intense flavor.;
Eggs, chicken, sweetbreads ROOSl beef, corned beef, baked ham SautCed poultry, white mealS Vegetables, sweetbreads
218
~
CIW'lER 10
USING SA UCE)
.P';--'
Although many classic sauces were designed (or or intended to be used II'ii specific dishes, modern chefs often mix and match sauces with fexxls. unique or nontraditional ways. Nonclassic sauces, such as a beurre blanc, $list or relish may be prepared in a range of flavors using a wide \'ariety of ingJrdienlS. The uses shown in Table 105 for classic and nonclassic sauces are just gestions. Most sauces can be used in many different dishes. It depends (II your taste, creativity and judgment.
In Ie Guide clilillaire, Auguste Escoffier wrote "Indeed, stock is everything i. cooking. . without it, nothing ca n be done. If one's stock is good, what Itmains of the work is easy; if, on the other hand, it is bad or merely mediooe. it is quite hopeless to expect anything approaching a satisfactory result: Because stocks and the sauces made from them are still the basis for much j contemJX>rary cuisine, Escoffier's words are as true today as when he WItR them. Both the classic mOlher sauces and the small sauces derived from them i! well as sauces such as beurre blanc and beurre rouge, coulis, flavored oils.si sas and relishes thai are nO{ based on classic recipes all share two goals: • complement the foods with which they are served and neither mask nor c&s. guise poorly prepared foods. \'<'ith pl"dctice and care (and the right ingredents), you will be able to make great sauces.
, r;?2UESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION
.h-,
1. Why are the bones of younger animals preferred for making stocks1
2. Why should a stock made from beef or veal bones cook longer than a stock made from fish bones? What is the result if a stock does not cook long enough? 3. What can cause a stock to become cloudy? How can you prevent this haa happening? 4. List three differences in the produclion of a white stock and a brown Sled 5. List the five classic mother sauces. and explain how they are used to prepare small sauces. 6. Why is demi-glace preferred when making brown sauces? Is jus lie different from classic demi-glace? Can they be used interchangeablr1 7. Why are lemperantres important when making hollandaise sauce? What precautions must be taken when holding hollandaise for service? 8. Compare a beurre blanc and a hollandaise sauce. How are they similar: How are they different? 9. How are compou nd butlers used in making sauces? What are the ingredients for a traditional maitre d'h6tel butter? 10. What are the diffe rences between a salsa, chutney and relish? Can these items be used in place of classic sauces? Expla in your answer.
sroc~ANDSAUCES
RECIPE 10.2 1
MUSHROOM TARTS Willi GARLIC CREAJI Nore 7bis dish appeors ;,,!he CIJup/ff ~1;1/g photograph. CITRUS, Los A....GELES, C:" CheJMiche/ Ric/xlrd
\kld: 6 seIVings Garlic doves, peeled Hell,}' cream Salt and pepper
GARLIC CREAM 30 1 pt. Tf
30 500 ml Tf
l Place the garlic in a saucepan. Cover with 3 inches (8 em) of cold water and bring to a boil. Drain and rinse the garlic with cold water. Repeat the process two more times. Then thinly slice the garlic and return it to the saucepan. 1 Add cream. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently until reduced by half or to a thiCk. saucelike consistency, stirring occasionally. j Season with sail and pepper.
PUFF PASTRY Puff paStry
8 oz.
225 g
L line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Roll the pastry into a 10- x 9-inch (25- x 22.5-cm) rectangle on a lightly floured surface. l. CUI into six 3- x 5-inch (7.5- x 12.5-cm) squares using a fluted pastl}' CUl ler. Transfer to a baking sheet and dock the dough with a fork. j Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before baking. 4. Bake at 3;Q°F (I80°C) until puffed, browned and baked through, approximately 30 minutes.
MUSHROOMS fresh shiitake mushrooms Olive oil Sal! and pepper
750 to lOoo g
1 112 to 2 lb. 2 Thsp.
30ml
Tf
Tf
t. Trim the ends of the mushrooms. Heat a saute pan over medium-high beat 1. j.
4.
1
and film with oil. Add the mushrooms and cook until lightly brown and lender, approximately 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Season with sail and pepper. To serve the tart, slice each piece of puff pastry in half horizontally, using a serrated knife. Arrange on six plates. Rewann the garlic cream and mushrooms. Spoon cream onto the bottom of each piece of pastl}'. O,'erlap the mushrooms on top of cream, alternating light and dark pieces. Set the top pieces of paStry at an angle over the mushrooms so that the filling is visible . Serve with m:uchand de vin (p. 203) and garnish with an herb sprig, if de~ired .
.\pprollllUle values per ser.'ing: Calorie!! 670. To tal lac 50 g, Saru raled fal 22 g, Choie!!lerol 115 mg, 50ItfaIq 135 mg. Toul carbo hydrale!l 46 g. Prolein 8 g, vtla rum II. 35%
~
219
220 ....". CHAP1EII 10
============ ~ ===========I RECIPE 10.22
llED- WINE
THYAIE SAUCE
VLNCENT ON CAMEl.BACK, J'ttOf.NL'(, AZ CbeJ Vincen' Gueri/baull
Soz. 1 Thsp. 2 oz. I qt. 1 sprig 1 sprig 2 1 oz.
Red wine
GarliC, chopped Shallots, chopped Veal slOck Fresh rosemary
Fresh thyme Bay leaves Unsalted butter
250 ml 15 ml 60g II, 1 sprig 1 sprig 2 30 g
1. Reduce the red wine, garlic and shallots by one quaner. 2. Add the veal stock, rosemary, thyme and bay leaves and reduce by Oft quarter. J. Remove from the heal and strain. Monte au beurre. Approximate values per l-oz. (84.g) serving: Caklries 40, Tow fat 2 g. Saturated fal I g, CJIIIItI. ~ g, Protein 1 g, Vitamin Ii. 10%, CIaIJm.-.bfat; low calorie; flO sugar
ternl 5 mg, SOdium 210 mg, Tow carbohydrlltes
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 10.23
ROASTED GARLIC SAUCE Chef Lelflnd Atkinson,
W"'SlU.~GTO.~, DC
Yield: 12 oz. Shallots, minced
Clarified butter Madeira
Fresh thyme
Bay leaf Garlic head, trimmed and roasted Demi-glace Salt and pepper
4 Thsp. I Tbsp. 4 oz. 1 sprig 1
60ml 15 ml 120 ml 1 sprig I
I I pt.
450 ml
1T
1T
I . Saute the shallots lightly in the clarified bulter until slightly caramelized. 2. Add the Madeira , thyme and bay leaf and reduce by one third. J. Squeeze in the garliC, discarding the skins and root. 4. Add the demi-glace and reduce by one third. 5. Thicken slightly with roux if desired, adjust the seasonings and forct . • through a fine strainer. Appro~ima[e values per l.oz. (3I}g) serving: Calol'ic$ 15, Total fat I g, Saturated fat .5 g, ChoIe!terol 5 mg, Sodium 240 mg, Total carbohydrates 0 g, Protein 0 g
SlTXfSAND:MUCFS
========== ~ ============ RECIPE J0.24
DUXELLES SAUCE Held: I 112 pl. (750 m]) \1l.L)hrooms, chopped fine Sh:tIlOlS, chopped fine Cbrified buller Olil'eoil Dry white wine
Soz. 3 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 12 oz.
Otmi-gl
2 oz.
250 g 90g 30ml 30ml 700 ml 500 ml 60ml
&lit and pepper
IT
IT
Parsley, chopped fine
1 l1)Sp.
15 ml
1 pt.
J. Saute the mushrooms and Ihe shallots in the butler and oil. The mushrooms will release Iheir liquid and darken. Cook until completely dry. l Deglaze with the while wine and reduce by IWO thirds. j .,dd the demi-glace. Bring to a boil, then simmer for five minutes. 4. Slir in Ihe cream. Adjust the seasonings. Garnish with parsley. ] -QZ.. (49-g) SCJ'\'ing, Calories 100, Total fal ]0 g, Satun~ (al 6 g. Choles40 g, Total carbohydntcs 2 g. Prote in I g, Vi!amin A I ~
\J9IOllllll1e l'lloes per 1fIII }() mg. Sodlum
-..r:r>
A
RECIPE 10.25
BARBECUE SAUCE
Yield: 1 112 qL (1.5 It) Onion, SIlKtll dice G:l!iiC, chopped regetahle oil Red wine vinegar Brown sugar Honey Beef stock KetC'hup Dry mustard \force5tershire sauce Salt and pepper Cayenne pepper
S oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 6 oz. 1 oz. 2 oz. Soz. 10 oz. 1 oz. 2 Thsp.
250 g 30 g 30 ml 180 ml 30g 60g 250 ml 300 g 30g 30ml
IT IT
IT IT
J. Sweat the onions and garlic in the oil until tender. Z Combine the remainirfg ingredients and simmer for 30 minutes. ApprOxlm:ItC l'alul'S per l-()z. (23-g) servi ng: Calorics 25, TOIa! fat I g, Saturated fat 0 g. Choles· .,.,. 0 JIl/I. SOdium 80 mg, TOla! carbohydrates .( g. Protein 0 g, Claims-low fat ~ low sodium; low
'"'"
~
221
222
~
GIAP7£R 10
====== .~ ====== RECIPE 10.26
M IGNONETTE SAUCE Yield: 1 pt. (500 ml)
White pepper Red wine vinegar Shallots, minced Salt J.
2 tsp.
lOml
16 oz. 4 oz.
;00 ml
IT
IT
120 g
Combine all ingredients.
Approl(im:lle values per l-o~. G6-g) serving: CaIoriu 5, Tow fal 0 g. Salurated fat 0 g, Cbolesltrol o mg. Sodium .8 mg, TOlal carbohydrates 1 g. Prot~ln 0 g. CIalnu--fat free; very low sodiunt 1:11 calorie
======= ~ ======= RECIPE 10.27
FRESH TOMArO SAUCE FOR PASTA Yield: 2 1/2 qt. (25 It)
Onion, small dice Carrot, small dice Garlic, minced Olive oil Tomato concassee Fresh oregano Fresh thyme Salt Pepper Fresh basil, chopped
8 oz. 4 oz. 1 Thsp. 2 oz. 7 lb. Ilbsp. 2 tsp. 1 tsp. 1/2 tsp. 1/2 oz.
2;0 g 120 g 15 ml 60ml 3.1 kg 1; ml 10 ml ; ml 2 ml 1; g
1. Sweat the onion, carrot and garlic in the olive oil until tender. 2. Add the concasse, oregano and thyme. Simmer for approximately 1 hoot or until the desired consistency is reached. j. Pass the sauce through a food mill if a smooth consistency is desired. 00 not puree if a chunkier sauce is desired. 4. Adjust the seasonings and add the chopped basil. Approxim:lte values per l-oz. (4S-g) serving: Calories 20. Tow fat I g. Saturated fat 0 So CholetI~rol 0 mg. Sodium 35 mg. Tow carboh ydrales 2 g. Protein 0 g. Vitamin C IS%. C1aims--lc:l'l- bI. low sodium; low nloric
SlTXIS AII'D SAUCES c""a. 223 ~
RECIPE 10.28
BOLOGNESE SAUCE \irJd: 1 qt. (I It) Mirepoix, fine dice OIire oil 'Chole buner Ground beef White wine lllik Sutmeg Tomato concassee White stock Salt and pepper
80z. 2 oz. 1 oz. lib. 80z. 60z.
250 g 60ml 30g 500g 250 ml 180 ml
n
n
21b. approx. 8 oz.
1 kg approx. 250 ml
n
n
I. SaUie the mirepoix in the olive oil and buller until tender. Add the beef and cook until no pink remains. Drain fat if necessary. 1 Add the wine. Cook and reduce the wine until neady dry. 1 1dd the milk and season with nutmeg. Cook and reduce the milk until ""rly ruy. 4. Add the tomatoes and 8 ounces (250 milliliters) of stock; season with salt and pepper. Simmer for 3 to 4 hours, adding stock as needed to prevent scorching. Adjust the seasonings. ~te
\'2Iues per 1-01. 5 3-g) serving: Calorla SO, TotaJ rat " g, Satunled ral 1.5 g, Chok&-
_ to IIlg, Sodium t 15 mg, Total c:arboh}'dralcs 2 g, Protc:in 2 g, Vitamin C ](M
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 10.29
TOMATO VINAIGRETTE Yield: 4 a-oz. (250-g) servings
Vinaigrene: Tomato concassee Fresh basil, thyme or marjoram Balsamic vinegar Shallots, minced Olive oil Salt and pepper Pasta,cooked
80z. I oz. 3 oz. 2 Thsp. 8 oz.
90ml 30 ml 250 ml
n
n
I lb.
500 g
250 g
30 g
I. Combine all vinaigrel1e ingrt>
1 Toss the sauce with I pound (500 grams) warm or cold cooked pasta such 3S spaghetti or fel1uccine. Adjust the seasonings. Serve immediatel}' or reo frigerate and serve chilled. -woxim;ue \-,dues per 8-oz. (2%g) serving: Calorlcs 700. Total fat 58 g, Saturated fat 8 g, Cboles1rn11 35 mg, Sodl\lm 600 mg. TOlal carbo hydratcs 38 g. Protein 7 g, Vitamin C ~
224 r"!a. CHAPTER JO
============= ~ ============ I RECIPE 10.30
P ESTO SAUCE Yield: 1 1/2 1'1. (750 rn!)
I . Combining the pesto ingredients.
Olive oil Pine nUlS Fresh basil leaves Garlic, chopped Pamlesan, grated Romano, grated Salt and pepper
12 oz. 3 oz. 6 oz. I Thsp.
4 oz. 4 oz. 1T
360 ml 90g 180 g 15 Illl 120 g 120 g 1T
I . Place one third of the olive oil in a blender or food processor and add 011
the remaining ingredients. 2. Blend or process until smooth. Add the renL1ining olive oil and blend a ret. seconds to incorpor:lle. VARIATION:
If/a/mil Pesto-Substitule walnuts for pine nuts in the recipe
Approximate values per 1-01.. 05·g) 5eT\'ing, Ca lories 200, Tota l fat 19 g, Satu r:lled fat -I g, Chob tero l 10 mg, Sodium 250 mg. Tot:.1 carbohydr:lles 1 R. Prote in 4 II, Cak iuIII 15%
2. The finished pesto sauce.
============= -v'" =========== RECIPE 10.3 1
CITRUS B EURRE B lANC VINCENT ON CAMELBI\CK, I'IIOE.\"IX, AZ G1Jejl'illcellf Gllerit/xlllll
Yield: 4 servings Or'Jnge juice Lime juice Lemon juice White wine White wine Vinegar Shallots, chopped fine Heavy cream Unsalted butter Salt and pepper Orange rind, grated :tnd blanched Lime rind, grated and blanched I.emon rind , grJted and blanched
8 oz. 1 TI)Sp. 1 Thsp. 80z. 8 oz. 1 Thsp. 1 Thsp. 1 lb.
1T
I Thsp. I TI)Sp. I Thsp.
225 m] 15 ml 15 ml 225 ml 225 ml 15 ml 15 ml 450 g 1T 15 ml 15 IllI 15 ml
I . Combine Ihe citms juices, wine, vinegar and sh:t110Is and reduce au Set
over moder'Jle heat. 2. Whisk in the cream, then whisk in {he butter 2 ounces (60 grams) at a linr. 3. Strain the sauce, season witJ1 S:llt :md pepper and stir in the cimls rin{b. Keep hot for service. Approxnn:IIC ,·;t1ues per
).m.. (l 60-g) seT\'ing' Calories 890, Tow fat 94 g, Saturated fat 58 g. OIl> !esterol 255 mg, Sod ium 600 mg, Total carbohydra lL"S 9 g. Prolein Z g, Vitamin'" 90%
I
sroc~ AND SAUCES
I =========== ~ ============ RECIPE 10.32
LOBSTER BEURRE BlANC Chef leland Atkinson,
WASHL~GTOS, OC
Ykld: 10 oz. Shallots, peeled and sliced Clarified buner Fresh tarragon Ray leaf While wine i.obsler stock Champagne vinegar Lemon juice Ginger, peeled, chopped coarse He-:lvy cream, hot Unsalted buner Salt and while pepper
21bsp. I1bsp. 1 sprig
30m! 15 ml 1 sprig
I
I
Soz. 1 pt. 11bsp. 2 tsp. 21bsp. 6 oz. 4 oz.
250 ml 450 ml 15 ml 10 m! 30 ml 180 ml 120 g
TI
TI
1 Saute the shallots in clarified butter until lightly caramelized. 1. Md the larragon, bay leaf, while wine, lobster stock, vinegar, lemon juice and ginger. Bring 10 a !xlil and reduce 10 approximately 8 ounces (250 milliliters). l :\dd the cream and reduce by half or until thick. 4. ~!onte au beurre, adjust the seasonings and strain. Hold in a warm place until service. ~lC'
I';ltues per 1-07_ (IOS-g) serving: Calories 170. Total fae 17 g. Saturaled fal I I g. tho-
a.mI ;o mg, Sodium 400 mg. Total carbo h)'Clr.Ile!I 2 g, Proedn 2 g, Vitamin A 15%
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 10.33
SORREL SAUCE Mewod: pureeing
Yield: 1ql. (I It) Shallots, chopped coarsely
Whole butter ~'bile wine He-:ll,), cream Sorrel, stemmed Spinach, stemmed Sal! and while pepper lemon juice
I1bsp. I oz. 8 oz. 1 pc 8 oz. 8 oz.
15 ml 30g 250 ml 500ml 250 g 250 g
TI
TI
I oz.
30ml
I. Saute the shall(){s in the butter until tender. l. Add the white wine and reduce by half. j. Add the cream and reduce until it begins to thicken. 4. Add the sorrel and spinach leaves to the cream and cook jusl until the 1e-:ll'cs arc wilted .• 1. Puree the sauce in a blender or food processor and season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Serve the sauce with egg, chicken, veal or rich fish dishes. l.ppIOXiltlllC Vllut'S ref lo()z. (32.g) serving: Caiori~ 70, Toea! fae 7 g, Sacurated fae 4 g, Chol~· eroI 2S mg, Sodium 90 mg, Toeai carbohydr.lle!l 1 g, Proeein I g. VII:lll1in A 10%
~
225
226
~.
CHAPTER JO
RECIPE 10.34
PEANUT SAUCE Yield: 28 oz. (BOO g) I tsp.
Garlic, chopped Onion, small dice Red pepper flakes, crushed Kaffir lime leaves (optional) Curry powder Lemon grass, minced Vegetable oil Coconut milk Cinnamon slicks Bay leaves Lime juice Rice wine vinegar Chicken stock Peanut butler
6 oz. IISp.
4 2tsp. I oz. I oz. Soz. 2 4 1 oz. 4 oz. 10 oz. 10 oz.
5 ml 180 g 5 ml 4 10 ml
JOg 30 ml 250 ml 2
4 30 ml 120 ml 300 1111
300 g
1. Saute the garlic, onion, red pepper flakes, lime lea\'es, Cllrry powder aD!
lemon grass in the vegetable oil for 5 minutes. 2. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for 30 minutes. Stir often. astlt
sauce can easily burn. Serve warm. Approxinule \":llues per l-oz. (43-g) SCI\'ing; Calorles ]00. Total fat 8 g. Saturated fat " g. (;boD tero l 0 mg. Sodium 115 mg. Total carbohrdrates 5 g. Protein ., g
'""I!'r = = = = = = RECIPE 10.35
APPLE HORSERADISH SAUCE Yield: I pI. (500 ml) Granny Smith apples Cider vinegar Fresh horseradish, grated Paprika \'V'hite wine
4
4
2 oz. 2 oz. liSp. I oz.
60ml
60g 5 ml JO ml
1. Grate the apples and moisten them with vinegar. 2. Add the horseradish and paprika. 3. Add wine to thin to the desired consistency. Approximate values per l-oz. (41-g) serving; Calorles 25, TOllil fat 0 g. SalUrated fat 0 g. CboItsterol 0 mg. Sodi um 0 mg. Total carbohydrates 6 g. Protein 0 g. C\aims -fal fn."c; no sodium: kIr c310ric
STfXJiS AND SAUCES
=========== ~ ============
RECIPE 10.36
THAi MELON SAl.\'A licld: I ql. (I II)
Assoned melons such as honeydew, cantaloupe, crenshaw <arlic, chopped Brown sugar Thai fish sauce Serrano chiles, minced time juice Unsalted peanuts, roasted, chopped fine Fresh mint I.
CUI
1 qt 1 (Sp. 2 Thsp. 1 oz. llbsp.
1 II
2 oz.
5 ml 30ml 30ml 15 ml 6Qml
4lbsp. 411)sp.
60ml 60ml
the melons into small dice or shape into small balls using a parisienne
scoop. I. Combine remaining ingredients and toss with the melon pieces. Chill thoroughly. Serve with fish , shellfish or chicken. ~.oluts per ].()7. (29-g) 5e1Ving: Calories 20, Tow fat .5 g, $atun.too fat 0 g, Clwles· l1li 0 mg. SodIum 70 mg. Total c:arboh}"dn.tt5 4 g. Protein 0 g, Viumln C ]()%., Claims-lo"" fat ; III" !Odium; Joo;o.' caloric
=
========
~, ==========
RECIPE 10.37
TOJJIAI'IUO
SAl.\'A
Yield: 2 qt. (2 It)
Tomatillos \rater Jalapenos Salt Peppel
Garlic Onions, chopped Cilantro, chopped
51b.
2 kg
S oz.
250 ml
3
3
1 lbsp.
15 ml
1/2 tsp. 2lbsp. 4 oz.
2 ml
30ml
2 oz.
60g
120 g
I. Remove the husks from the tomatillos. 2. Combine the tomatillos with the water, jalapenos, salt, pepper, garlic and onions. Bring to a boil and simmer until tender, approximately 20 minutes. J, Chop all ingredients in a food chopper or puree them in a blender for a smoother sauce. , .' dd Ihe cilantro and adjllstthe seasonings. The sauce may be served warm or cold. • Approlun:Ite v;llucs per ] .()7. (43-g) serving: Calories ro. Total fat 0 g, Saturated fat 0 g, CboleswaI 0 mg. SodIum 120 mg. Total carbo hydn.tes 3 g, Protein I g Claims-fal free; low sodium; m.,. caIotie
~
227
228
~~
CHAPTER 10
====== ~ ======
...--. ...:.
RECIPE 10.38
STAR FRUIT CHUTNEY
Yield: 2 lb. (900 g) Limes Fresh ginger, julienne Sugar Apples, peeled, medium dice Golden raisins Dark raisins Star fruit, peeled, medium dice Cider vinegar Salt and pepper Cayenne pepper
3 4 oz. 3 oz.
3
2 2 oz. 2 oz. 1 1/ 2 lb. 1 Thsp. IT
2 60g 60 8 1.3 kg IS ml
TT
120 g 90g
IT IT
1. Zest 2 limes. 2. Squeeze the limes to make 4 ounces (1 20 grams) of juice. j. Combine the lime juice, zest, ginger and sugar. Bring to a boil and sinuner until the sugar is cammelized. 4. Add the apples and raisins; simmer until the apples are soft but nOl mushy 5. Add the star frui t and bring back to a boil. I{emove from heat. Add the vinegar. Season to taste with salt, pepper and cayenne pepper. Approxim.ate VlIlucs per l-oz. (25-g) serving: CalOrie!! 45, Total rat 0 g, SaturalC:d rat 0 g, Chob lerol 0 mg, Sod ium 0 mg, TObl carbohydrates 10 g, Protein I g, C1aiJns....-fat free: no sodium
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 10.39
HERB OIL STM"FORD COURT IIOTn , S,,-,' fR.\."OSCO, O.
Fonner CbejErcoIino en/gnt/le
Yield: 4 oz. ( 120 g) Fresh parsley Fresh tarragon Fresh thyme Olive oil
2 oz. I oz. 1 oz. approx. 4 oz.
60g 30g 30 g approx. 120ml
1. Blanch the herbs in hot water for 10 seconds. Cool and dry thoroughly. 2. Measure the volume of the herbs and put them in a blender. Add an equal volume of olive oil. j. Puree and strain through a mesh stra iner, Approximate V"Jlucs per \-oz. GO-g) 5er.'ing: Calories 110, Total fal 8 g, Saturate(! fat I g, Chob terol 0 mg, Sodiu m 35 mg, Total carbohydrates 8 g. Protein 3 g. Vitamin A 20%, Iron "J(!t Cb i.ms-no cholesterol; low sodium
•
HAPTER
11
Christopher's atld Christopber's Btd phmmJ.t, AZ
=== ~ === After studying this chapter, you wi!)
be able
\0:
("0..
prepare a variety of clear and thick SOlipS
~
garnish and serve soups appropriately
any classic soups ti re prepared successflllly allly if the recipes are followed strictly. The st/ccess/ul preparation oj olber soups depends upon the mClsfelY of specialized techniq/./es. Bllt u4Jeft classic recipes l1eed not be followed nor special techniques employed. perhaps 110 other area of the kitchen allo/us the chef to lise his or btr imagination and creativily as milch as the soup station. The variety of ingredients, seasonings and garnishes Ibal C(l11 ~ IIsed jar soups IS vfnually
el1dles:,~
pruvided you understalld (be basi.;
procedures for making different kinds of soup. Greal soups call Il
made from the finest and most expensive ingredients or from leftotm from the previous evening's dinner selvice and fn'mmings from 1M day's production. This chapter extends to S01lpS tbe skills and know/edge leamed iw Chapter 10, Stocks and Sauces. /n Chapter 10, we discussed making stocks, thickening liqUids, using a liaison and skimming impllrities. techniques that apply to SOIiP making as well. Here we disCl/SS tech· niq1les such as ckuifying consommes mId thickening soups with I't'getahle purees. This chapter also covers cream soups, cold soups alld gUidelines for gamishil1g and selvil1g a variety of SOllPS.
1\I'ost soups can be classified by cooking technique and appearance as either clear or thick. Clear soups include broths made from meat, poultry, game, fish or regetables as weU as consommes, which are broths darified to remove impurities. Thick soups include cream soups and puree soups. The most COlllllQl cream soups are those made from vegetables cooked in a liquid that is thict· ened with a starch and pureed; cream is then incorporated to add richness am flavor. Puree soups are generaUy made from st:lrchy vegetables or legumes. After the main ingredient is simmered in a liquid, the mixtur~r a portion d ii-is pureed. Some soups (notablr bisques and chowders as weU as cold soups such as gazpacho and fmit soup) are neither dear nor thick soups. Rather, they II!t special preparation methods or a combination of the methods mentioned Ixfore. A soup's quality is determined by its flavor, appearance and texture. AgoOO soup should be ful! flavored, with no off or sour tastes. Flavors from each the soup's ingredients should blend and complement, with no one flavor over· powering another. Consommes should be crystal clear. The vegetables in vegetable soups should be brightly colored, not gray. Garnishes should be aum tive and uniform in size and shape. The soup's texture should be very precise If it is supposed to be smooth, Ihen it should be very smooth and lump-free
SOUPS '"""
fthe soft and crisp texllIres of certain ingredients are supposed to COntrast, fie SCMJp should nO{ be overcooked, as this causes all the ingredients 10 be«me mushy and soft. Garnishing is an important consideration when preparing soups. \Xfhen 4lPiied to soups, the word garnish has two meanings. The fi rst is the one .:no typically associated with the word. It refers to foods added to the soup 15 deror.Uion-for example, a broccoli floret floated on a bowl of cream of lIIxcoIi soup. The .second refers to foods thaI may serve not only as decorJIlIl5 but also as critical components of the final product-for example, nooiIo in 3 bowl of chicken noodle soup. In this context, the noodles are not in~b because they are nOt used to make the chicken soup. Rather, they ftadded to chicken soup to create ,t different dish. These additional items are iii referred to as garnishes, however.
CLE4R SOUPS
,N-,
~ dear soups start as broth. Broths may be served as finished items, used as Ih! base for other soups or refined (clarifi ed) imo consommes.
Broths Jbt> terhniques for making stocks discussed in Chapter 10 are idemical 10 Ihoie used for making hroths. Like stocks. broths are prepared by simmering ft:l.loong ingrt-'diems in a liquid for a long time. Broths and stocks differ, how(\1.'1". in twO ways. First, broths are m:tde with meat instead of just bones. Sec~, broths (often with a garnish) can be served as finish ed dishes, while lfIXks are generally used to prepare other items. Broths arc made from meat, poultry, fish or vegetables cooked in a liquid. :\II espedally full-flavored broth results when a stock and not just water is
II.Itd as the liquid. Cuts of meat from the shank, neck or shoulder result in broths, as will the flesh of mature poultry. Proper temperature, ~ing and straining help produce well-fl avored, clear broths.
11M flavorful
I'ImnURE FOR PREPARmG BROTHS
J. Truss or cut the main ingredient. 1. Brown the meat; brown or sweat the mirepoix or vegetables as necessary. j Place the main ingredient and mirepoix or vegetables in an appropriate
SlOCkpot and add enough cold water or stock to cover. Add a lX/uquet glmi or sachet d'epices if desired. 4. Bring the liquid slowly to a boil; reduce to a simmer and cook , skimming occasionally, until the main ingredient is lender and the flavor is full y 'helopc
233
~ ==
£SCOma's
ClASSIFICATION OF Soups
In his 1903 culinary treatise I.e Guide ctlfit/afre, Auguste Escoffier recognizm many more categOries of soups than we do today. The)' include: Clear soups, which are always "clear coflSOlllnoe; with a slight garnish in keeping \\"ith the nature of the consomme." l\trees, which are made from starchy vegetables and are thickened \\ith rice, potato or soft bread crumbs. Cuilises, which use poultry. game or fish for a base and are thickened with rice, lentils, espagnole sauce or bread soaked. in boiling salted water. Bisques, which use shellfish cookoo with a mirepoix as a base and are thickened \\ith rice. \'elou~, which use veloute sauce as a base and are finished with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Cream soups, which use b6:hamel sauce as a base and are fin ishOO with hea\"y cream. Special soups, which are those that do not foUow the procedures for \'eloutes or
""""". Vegetable
soups, which are usually
paysflIllle or peasant-type and "do not de-
mand \'e1)' great precision in the apportionment of the vegetables of which they are composed, but they need great care and attention, not\\ithstanding:' Foreign soups, "which hal'e a foreign origin whose use, although it may not be general, is ret sufficiently common." Because of changes in consumer health consciousness and kitchen operations, many of the distinctions between F..scoffier's classic soups have now become blurred and, in some cases, eliminated. Ni discussed in this chapter, for example, clear consommes and vegetable soups are now made with stocks or broths; most cream soups use wloute as a base and are finished \\;th milk or cream rather than a liaison. But not el'erything has changed: The procedures for malting purees and bisques are essentially tile same toda)' as they were when F.scoffier haunted the great kitchens of Europe.
234
.
CIWWiIl
======= ~' ======I
RECIPEll.l
BEEF BRom Yield: 8 qt. (8 It)
Beef shank, neck or shoulder CUI in
2-io. (5-c01) thick pieces Vegetable oil Water or beef stock, cold l\Iirepoix Turnip, medium dice
Leek, medium dice Tomato, seeded and diced
121b. 8 oz. 2 gaL 21b. 8 oz. B oz. 8 oz.
S.S kg 2S0 g 81t
900g 250 g 250g 250g
Sachet: Bay leaf
1
Dried thyme
1/2 tsp. 1/2 (Sp. 8 2
Peppercorns, cnlshed Parsley stems Garlic cloves, crushed Salt IT
2 rn! 2 ml 8 2
IT
1. Brown the meat in 4 ounces (120 grams) of oil, then pbce it in a
Add the stock or water and bring to a simmer. Simmer gently for 2 IioorI. skimming the surface as necessary. 2. After the meal has simmered for 2 hours, caramelize the mircf.XJix .
tnaining oil and add it to the liquid. Add the TUrnips, leeks, tomatO and 'Jchet.
3.
Simmer until full flavor has developed, approximately I hour. Skim (he 9J.
face as necessary. 4. Carefully strain the broth through cheesecloth and season to taste. and refrigerate. Approximate '"allIeS per 6-m. (205-g) serving: Catorit:$ 70. Total (at 6 g, Satur-.ltrd fat I g. CIIo& terol 2 mg, Sodium 630 mg, Total carbohydrates 2 g. Protein 2 g
Bl'oth-Based Soups Broths are often used as bases for such familiar soups as vegetable, chkkea noodle and beef barley. Transforming a broth into a broth-based vegetable soup, for example. ~ quite simple. Although a broth may be served with a vcgctable (or meat) g1Inish, a broth-based vegetable soup is a soup in which the vegetables (awl meats) are cooked directly in !.he broth, adding flavor, body and te,,,ur, tel tir finished produa. Any number of vegetables can be used to make a soup; it could be a single vegetable as in onion soup or a dozen different etables for a hearty minestrone. t.·laking a mixed vegetable soup ,Ilclw,tir I chef to use his or her imaginalion and whatever produce may be on hand. When making broth-based vegetable soups, each ingredient must be addtll at the proper time so that all ingredients are cooked when the soup is finish«t The ingredients mllst cook long enough to add their flavors and soften suffiCiently but not SO long that they lose their identity and become too soft mushy. Because broth-based vegetable soups are made by simmering ingrediel!l directly in the broth , they are generally nOI as dear as plain broths. BUI ap-
"":,,,t.,
SOUPS
235
tlICt'S are still imponanL So, when cutting ingredients for Ihe soup. pay :ulJr allention so that the pieces are unifonn and \'isualJy appealing. Small pJliennc, b:lIonnel or paysanne cms are recommended.
PmnURE fOR PREPARING BROTII-BASED VEGETABLE SoUPS
I '~l'3tlong-cooking vegelables in butter or fat. ! i,lkl the appropriate stock or brOlh and bring to a simmer. ./. Ul seasonings such as bay leaves, dried thyme, cnlshed peppercorns, rr.I~lc) ~CIllS and garlic, in a sachel. alJowing enough time for the
'<:l'iOOings to fuJly flavor the soup, L .\dd ackiitional ingredients according 10 their cooking times. ~ 'muner the soup to blend all the flavors. , If the soup is not going to be served immediately. cool and refrigerate it, • jlL't before service, add any garnishes that were prepared separately or do not require cooking.
= = = = = --v"'
======
RECIPE 11 .2
HEARlY VEGETABLE B EEP SOUP )1e1d: 5 ql. (5 It)
Butlc.:'r or beef fat .1!in'poL'I:. small dice TWTlip. small dice Garlic do\'es, chopped 8c.'~f brOlh or stock Betf. 'imall dice
6 oz.
lib.
170 g 1.5 kg 250 g 2 4 It 450 g
1/2 tsp. 1/2 tsp.
2 ml 2 ml
8 12 oz. 12 oz. IT
8 350 g 350 g
31b.
8 oz. 2
4 ql.
Tomalo concassce-peelI'(J, seeder! alld dim' /Qllla/f).
\1dll.'1:
fur leaf Dried th~'me
Peppercorns. cmshed Parslt1 ~lcms Tomato concassee Wm kernels. fresh. frozen or canned \lIt Jnd pepper
IT
J soup pot, sweal Ihe mirepoix and lurnip in the butter or fat until tender, l Add the 83rlic 3nd sauCe Jigluly. J. Add the beef broth or stock and the diced beef; bring 10 a simmer. Add the :iJChCl Skim or degrease as necess:lry. t Simmer umi] the beef and vegetables are tender, approximately I hour, i .\dd the tomato concassee and corn; simmer for 10 minutes. Season 10 1:lste \\'ith Slit and pepper. " Cool and rcfrigera~e or hold for service.
/, In
IIlLUlOSS: A wide variety of vegetables can be added or substiluted in this If leeks, nnabagas, parsnips or C:lbbage are used, they should be \\\t'"Jled to bring out their flavors before the liquid is added. Potatoes, fresh JC:~ns..'iUmlllef squash and other vegetables that cook more quickl y should be
1. Sweating the vegetables.
:tape.
2, The finished Vegetable Beef Soup.
236 c-a.
CJWlfR
II
added according \0 their cooking limes. Rice, barley and pasta should be cooked separately and added just before service. Approxilltlle V;iJUes per &-oz. (208-g) serving: Calo ries 170. Total fal 10 g, Sat urated fat :; g. a. lesten.ll 30 mg, Sodium 600 mg, Tow carbo hydrates 12 g, Protein 7 g. Vitlimin A 2(M
Consommes A
consomme is a stock or brOlh 1ha1 has been clarified \0 remove impurUi
so that il is crystal clear. Traditionally, all clear broths were referred \0 as CIJIo sommes; a dear broth further refined using the process described later was Itferred to as a double consomme. The term dot/ble consomme is still used IX· casionally \0 describe any strongly flavored consomme. Well-prepared consommes should be rich in the flavor of the main i em. Beef and game consommes should be dark in color; consommes from poultry should ha\'e a golden to light amber color. They should stamial body as a result of their high gelatin coment, and all coroorrrmil should be perfectly clear with no trace of fat. Because a consomme is a refined broth, it is absolutely essential that broth or stock used be of the highest quality. Although the clarification proct'l adds some flavor to the consomme, the finished consomme will be only as good as the stock or broth from which it was made.
The Clarification Process
Onion brfili:e-lileroUy, bumf onioll, made try charrillg ollioll hokes,. liStd 10 jlawr ami roIor sIocks and sa/lcer.
To make a consomme, you clarify a stock or bror:h. The stock or broth 10 Ir clarified must be cold and grease-free. To clarify, the cold degreased stocker broth is combined with a mixlUre known as a c1earmeat or clarification. A clearmeat is a mixture of egg whites; ground meat, pou]tl)' or fish; mirepoiI, herbs and spices; and an acidic produCt, usually tomatoes, lemon juice er wine. (An onion brOlee is also often added to help flavor and color the C(» somme.) The stock or broth and deanneat are then slowly brought to a simmer. AI the albumen in the egg whites and meat begins to coagulate, it traps impu.;' ties slLspended in the liquid . As coagulation continues, lhe I (i items combine wilh the olher clearmea( ingredients and rise to the liquid's sur· face, forming a raft. As the mixture Simmers, the raft ingrediems release thei flavors, funher enriching the consomme. After simmering, the consomme is carefully su-ained through several13rers of cheesecloth to remove any lrace of impurities. II is then completelY!lgreased, either by cooling and refrigerating, Ihen removing the solidified fat. or by carefully ladling the fat from the surface. The resu lt is a rich, flavorful crystal-clear consomme.
1. In a suitable slockpol (one with a spigot makes it much easier to strain the consomme when it is finished), combine the ground meat, lightly beaten egg while and other clearmeat ingredients. 2. Add lhe cold slock or brOlh and stir to combine with the clearmeat ingredients. J. Over medium heat, slowly bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring occasionally.
SOUPS '"'" ,I,.I the raft forms , make a hole in its center so that the liquid can bubble through, cooking the raft completely and extracting as much flavor as pO~$ible from the raft ingredients. l 'limmer the consomme until full flavor develops, approximately 1 to 1 1/2 iIouo. , Carefully strain the consomme through severalla}'ers of cheeseclOth and dt'gre:lse completely . • If the consomme will not be used immediately, it should be cooled and rrl"rigerated, following Ihe procedures for cooling slocks discussed in OupieT 10. Wlhen the consomme is completely cold, remove any R.'I1tlininj:l fat that solidifies on its surface. ! If, after rehe,ning the consomme, small dots of fal appear 011 tile surface, thercan be removed by blotting with a small piece of paper IOwel.
237
1. Combining the ingredients for the
clearme:.tt.
====== ~
======
RECIPE 11 .3
BEEF CONSOilIME Yiekl:4 qt. (4 It)
Egg whites Ground beef. lean, prefer:lbly shank, neck or shoulder ItirepoLx TOIl1.'Ito, seeded and diced &.'1.1 broth or stock, cold Onion bn1](>e Sachet: Bar leaves Dried thyme Peppercorns, crushed Parsley stems Cloves, whole Salt
10
10
21b.
1 kg
lib.
450 g 340 g
12 oz.
5 qt. 2 2
1/2 ISp. 1l2tsp, 8 2 IT
5lt 2
2. Making a hole in the raft to allow the liquid to bubble through .
2 2 ml 2 rnl 8 2 IT
I. Ilhip the egg whites until slightly frothy. l Combine the egg whites, beef, mirepoix and tomatoes in an appropriate 9:ockpot.
! ,-\dd the cold beef stock or broth; mix well and add the onions bnMe and >Jchet, 4. Bring the mixture to a simmer over moderate heat, stirring occasionally. ~op stirring when the r:lft begins to form. 5. Break a hole in the center of the raft to allow the consomme to bubble through, , ~immer until full flavor develops, :tpproximately 1 1/2 hours. ~, ~r.tin through several layers of cheesecloth, degrease and adjust Ihe sea~ings. Cool and refrigerate or hold for service.
3. Degreasing the consomme with a paper toweL
\I111t>I.01IltC I'llues per 6-oz, (3 1;"g) *rvlnll' C.'llorlc:s 2\0, TOIa l (al to I!, Salllraled (al 3.5 g, Chon.rrot .fO mg, Sodium 87() ml!, Toul carboh,'drale5 t4 g, Protein 15 g, Vitamin A 20%, Vitamin
C
~on::
•
Guidelines for garnishing conS9mmes as well as some classic garnishes on page 248.
~ 1i.'IIl>d
4. The finished consomme.
238
~
CHAP'lr.R II
Correctillg a Poorly Clarified COllS0mme A clarification may fail for a variety of reasons. For example, if the is allowed to boil or if it is stirred after the raft has formed, a somme can result. If the consomme is insufficiemly clear, a second can be performed using the foll owing procedure. This second should be performed only once, however, and only if absolutely cause the eggs nm only remove impurities but also some of the flavor and richness.
CO!l5O!lm
1. Thoroughly chill and degrease the consomme. 2. Lightly beat four egg whites per gallon (4 liters) of consomme ancl rom. with the cold consomme. 3. Slowly bring the consomme to a simmer, stirring occaSionally. Stop oi!!q when the egg whites begin to coagulate. 4. When the egg whites are completely coagulated, carefu lly strain the coosomme.
THICK SOUPS
.N-,
There are twO kinds of thick soups: cream soups and puree soups. In general cream soups are thickened with a raux or other starch, while puree soupsrdl on a puree of the main ingredient for thickening. But in certain ways the tv. soups are very similar: Some puree sou ps are finished with cream or parrilli thickened with a roux or other starch.
Cream Soups Most cream soups are made by Simmering the main flavoring ingredient (I« example, broccoli for cream of broccoli soup) in a white stock or thin ve!tu: sauce to which seasonings have been added. The mixture is then pureed ml strained. After the consistency has been adjusted, the soup is finished ~ adding cream. In classic cuisine, thin bechamel sauce is often used as the ~ for cream soups and can be substituted for veloulc in many cream recipes, if desired. Both hard vegetables (for example, celery and squash) and soft or vegetables (for example, spinach. corn, broccoli and asparagus) are used cream soups. Hard vegetables are generally sweated in butter without brol'.... ing before the liquid is added. Soft and leafy vegetables are generally to the soup after the liquid is brought to a boil. Because cream soups art pureed, it is imponam to cook the flavoring ingredients until they are soft ard can be passed through a food mill easily. All cream soups are finished with milk or cream. Using milk thins the soop while adding richness; using the same amount of cream adds much more rict.ness without the same thinning effect. Cold milk and cream curdle easil}·' added directly to a hot or acidic soup. To prevent curdling, you should: 1. Never add cold milk or cream to hot soup. Bring the milk or cream 101 simmer before adding it to the soup. Or, temper the milk or cream by gradually adding some hOI soup to it and then incorporating the warmed mix· ture into the rest of the soup. 2. If possible, add the milk or cream to the soup JUSt before service. 3. Do not boil the soup after the milk or cream has been added.
SOUPS
239
I The presence of roux or OIher starch helps prevent curdling. Therefore, lichamel or cream sauce is often used instead of milk or cream to finish :rt':Im soups.
all from Chapter 10 that a bechamel sauce is made by thickening milk ~
roux, and a cream sauce is made by adding cream to a bechamel
tJ
/. In asoup pot, sweat hard vegetables such as squash, onions, carrOls and cekt). in oil or bUller without browning. L In order to thicken the soup: (II) add flour and cook to make a blond roux, then add the cooking liquid
(that is. the stock), or (/I) add the stock to the vegetables, bring the stock to a simmer and add a blond raux that was prepared separately, or (e) add a thin veloute or b(-'{hamel sauce to the vegetables. j. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. I Add any soft vegetables such as broccoli or asparagus, and a sachet or Ixluqua gami as desired. J \Immer the soup, skimming occasionally, until the vegetables are very tender. , Purl'e the soup by passing it through a food mill, blender, food processor IX\-ertical chopper mixer ( VCM) and strain through a china cap. If the \OUp is too thick, adjust the consistency by adding boiling while stock. ~ Fmi~h the soup by adding hot milk or cream or a thin ~chamel or cream <,Juce. Adjust the seasonings and serve.
=========== ~ ============= RECIPE 11.4
ClIEMf OF BROCCOli Soup r. ld: 6ql. (6 It) i'hole buller
3 oz.
Onion, medium dice Celery. medium dice Broccoli, chopped O1icken vcloUll! sauce, hot Chicken stock. hO{ Heal')" cream, hot \lit and while pepper I!roccoli florets
12 oz.
3 oz. 31h.
4 qt. approx. 2 qL
24 oz. 1T 8 oz.
90g 340g 90g
1. Adding the veloute sauce,
1.4 kg 41< approx, 2 It 700 g 1T 250 g
1. Swell the onions, celery and broccoli in the butter, withollt browning, lIntil ~.
are nearly tender. 1 Add the veloute &1Uce. Bring to a simmer and cook until the vegetables are tendt'r, approximately 15 minutes. Skim the surface periodically. j. Puri-e the soup, !hen strain it through a fine china cap or chinois, 2. Pureeing the soup through a food ConUIl/U!t!
mill.
240
("\!l
CHAP'lER J J 4. Return the soup to the slove and thin it 10 the correcl consislency withlh: hot chicken stock. 5. Bring the soup to a simmer and add the hOi cream. Season to ta.stt', sail and white pepper. 6. Garnish with blanched broccoli florets just before service. VAlUATIONS: To make cream of asparagus, cauliflower, corn, pea or spilw soup, substitute an equal :lmount of the chosen vegetable for the brocai. using fresh spinach, precook the leaves slightly before proceeding \\ith recipe.
3. Garnishing Ihe finished soup.
Approxinuu:.· val ues per 6-oz. (lSO-g) serving: Calo ries loKI, Total fat 12 g. Sat\lrated f31 • g. Gt les terol 40 mg, Sodium 340 mg, Total carboh)"dl"dles 5 g. Protein <\ g. Vitamin A :!O'O la-
C,...
Puree Soups Puree soups are hearty soups made by cooking starchy vegetables or Ie in a stock or broth, then pureeing all or a ponion of them to thicken the soop Puree soups are similar 10 cream soups in that they both consist of a main! grediem that is first cooked in :1 liquid, then pureed. The primary differtm, that unlike cream soups, which are thickened with starch, puree soups gem ally do nOt use additional st:lrch for thickening. R..1Iher, purL"e soups cJerc; on the starch coment of the main ingredient for thickening. Also, puree scqI are generally coarser than cream soups and are typiClllly nOt strained MIa pureeing. When finishing puree soups with cream, follow the guidelines tt cussed previously for adding cream to cream soups. Puree soups can be made with dried or fresh beans Stich as peas, Ie!ri and navy beans, or with any number of vegetables, including cauliflower, c6 ery roo!, Illrnips and potatoes. Diced pot:lIoes or rice are often used to Itt thicken vegetable puree soups.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING PUREE SOUPS
1. Sweat the mirepoix in butter without browning. 2. Add the cooking liquid. 3. Add the main ingredientS and a sachet or bouquet gami. 4. Bring to a boil, reduce to " simmer and cook until all the ingredients are soft enough to puree easily. Remove and discard the sachet or bouquet gami. 5. Reserve a ponion of the liquid to adjuSt the soup's conSistency. Puree the rest of Ihe soup by passing il through a food mill, food processor, blender or VCM. 6. Add enough of the reserved liquid to bring the soup to the correct consistency. If the soup is still too thick, add hot stock as needed. 7. Return the soup 10 a simmer and adjust the seasonings. 8. Add hot cream to the soup if desired.
Adjusting the Consistency o/Thick Soups Cream and puree soups tend to thicken when made in advance and refri ated. To dilute a ponion being reheated, add a small amount of stock, water or milk.
SOUPS
,""\a.
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 115
PUREE OF Spur PEA SOUP \'ield: 4 qt. (4 It)
RJcon, diced
3 oz.
\brepoi.x, medium dice Garlic clm'es, chopped Chicken stock
I lb. 2 3 ql. lib. I 1/2 lb.
\plil peas, washed and soned Ham hocks or meaty ham bones
90g 450 g 2
3 It
450 g 650 g
~Jchet;
1. Adding peas to the stockpot.
Bar leaves
2
Dried thyme
1/2 (sp.
Peppercorns. cnlshed \lh and pepper Croutons, sautc!ed in buner
1/2 IT
~p.
2 2 Illl
2 ml IT
as needed for garnish
I. [n J Sl.ockpot, render the bacon by cooking it slowly and allowing it 10 reo IClSC its fat; sweat the mirepoix and garlic in the fat without browning
tim 1. ,\dd the chicken stock, peas, ham hocks or bones and sachet. Bring \0 a boil, reduce 10 a simmer and cook unt] the peas :Ire soft, approximately I 10 1 1'2 hours,
J, Rcmol'c the sachet and ham hocks or bones. Pass the soup through a food mill and return it 10 the s(ockpot. ... RI.'I\lOve Ihe meat from the hocks or bones. Cut the meat into a medium dice and add it \0 the soup. j. Sring the soup to a simmer and, if necessary, adjust the consistency by adding hO! chicken stock. Adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper and «rve, garnished with CfOUions.
2. Pureeing the split pea soup.
\w.moxs: White beans, yellow peas and other dried beans can be soaked lItmight in water and used instead of split peas. JJ;m .... l"llues per 6-oz.. (206-g> serving: CaloriC!l 110. TOIllI fal 4 g, Satun lled fal 1.5 g, ChobIrroi li mg, Sodium 870 mg, Tom atrboh)"dralC!i 6 g, Protei n II g
If the soup is tOO thin, additional roux, beurre manie or cornstarch mixed lith cool Stock can be used to thicken it. Jf additional starch is added to !hkkt'n the soup, it should be used sparingly and the soup should be simmered a few minutes to cook out the starchy flavor. A liaison of egg yolks and hrJl'l cream can be used to thicken crcam soups when added richness is also ~,'!oin.'ll, Remember, the soup mUSt nOt boil afler the liaison is added or il may IAllt'_
3. Garnishing (he finished SOliI'.
OTHER SOUPS oN> X'll"r.ll popular types of soup do not fit the descriptions of or follow the procnlul\":l for either clear or thick soups. Soups such as bisques and chowders \ \\dl 3S many cold soups use special methods or a combination of the methrxh u~ for clear lind thick soups.
Render-lo mell alld clarify fat.
241
242
~
ClIAf'l'ER I J
Bisques Traditional bisques are shellfish soups thickened with cooked rice. bisques are prepared using a combination of the cream and puree cedures. They are generally made from shrimp, lobste r or crayfish thickened with a roux instead of rice for beller stabilit}' and consistency. Much of a bisque's flavor comes from crustacean shells, which are mered in the cooking liquid, pureed (along with the mirepoix), remrned cooking liquid and strained after funher cooking. Pureeing the shells and rurning them 10 the soup also adds the thickness and grainy texture with bisques. Bisques are enriched with cream. following the procedures for soups, and can be finished with butter for additional richness. The should be diced flesh from the appropriate shellfish.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING BISQUES 1. Caramelize the mirepoi.x: and main flavoring ingrediem in fat. 2. Add a tomato product and deglaze with wine. j. Add the cooking liquid (stock or veloute sauce). 4. Incorporate roux if needed . 5. Simmer, skimming as needed. 6. Strain the soup, reserving the solids and liquid. Puree the solids in a fool chopper or processor and return them to the liquid. Return to a sillUl1('t 7. Strain the soup through a fine chinois or a china cap lined with cheesecloth. 8. Return the soup 10 a simmer and finish with hot cream.
To add even more richness to the bisque, monte au beurre with whole or a compound butter such as shrimp or lobster butter just before the served. Also, if desired, add 3 ounces (90 milliliters) of sherry to m" "" (4 liters) of soup just before service.
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 11.6
SHRJlIlP BISQUE Yield: 4 qt. (4 It)
Clarified butter Mirepoix, small dice Shrimp shells ancVor lobster or crayfish shells and bodies Garlic cloves, chopped Tomato paste Brandy White wine Fish veioUle (made with shrimp stock) Sachet: Bay leaf Dried thyme Peppercorns, crushed
3 oz. I lb.
90g 450 g
2 lb. 2 2 oz. 4 oz. 12 oz.
60g
4 qt.
4 It
1 1/2 lSp. 1/2 tsp.
2 ml 2 ml
I kg 2
120 g 350 g
SOUPS
Parsley Siems Heal'}' cream, hal
Sal! and while pepper Carenne pepper np, peeled and deveined
8 1 pc IT IT lib.
8 500 m! IT IT 450 g
L Caramelize Ihe mirepoix and shrimp shells in the butler. 1. Add me garlic and (ornata paste and saute lightly. J Add the brandy and flambe. 4. Add the while wine. Oeglaze and reduce the liquid by half. 1 .&.dd the veloUie and sachet and simmer for approximately 1 hOUf, skimming occasionally. , Slmin, discarding Ihe 5.1chel and reservir.g the liquid and solids. Puree the solids and return them 10 the liquid. Return to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes.
1. Strain the bisque through a flne chinois or china cap lined with cheesecloth. a Return the bisque [0 a simmer and :ldd the hOI cream. 1 Season to taste with salt. white pepper and cayenne pepper. It Cook the shrimp and slice or dice them as desired. Garnish each ponion d soup with cooked shrimp. 1-aJues per ~ (80-g) .serving' Calories ] ]0. Tow fal ]0 g, Saturated fat 6 g, Cholt5·
_ tiO rng. Sodium ]60 mg. To W carbohydratCli 2 g, Protdn " g, Vi tamin A 10%
IJxiwdel'S Akhough chowders are usually associated with the eastern United States where IWl and dams are plentiful, they are of French origin. Undoubtedly the word cboo'der is derived from the Breton phrase Jttire chaudiere, which means to mke a fish stew in a caldron. The procedure was probably brought to Nova ScOO:l by French settlers and later introduced into New England. Chowders are heany soups with chunks of the main ingredients (including, muall)' always, diced potatoes) and garnishes. With some exceptions (noati}', Manhaaan clam chowder), chowders contain milk or cream. Although iere are thin chowders, most chowders are thickened with roux. The proceG.ats for making chowders are similar to those for making cream soups excqll Uul chowders are nOl: pureed and strained before the cream is added.
IIro:ooRE
FOR PREPARmG CHOWDERS
L Render finely diced salt pork over medium heat. 1 SIIo'eat mirepoix in the rendered pork. J Add nour to make a roux. , Add the liquid. S Add the seasoning and flavoring ingredients according to their cooking
-.
, Simmer, skimming as needed. 1 Add milk or cream.
......
243
244
~
CIW1'ER II
============= ,~ ============
RECIPE 11 .7
NEW ENGLAND STYLE CLM! CHOWDER Yield: 3 ql. (3 It)
Canned dams with juice· Water or fish stock Potato, small dice Salt pork, small dice Onion, small dice C':elery, small dice Flour Milk Heavy cream Salt and pepper Tabasco sauce Worcestershire sauce Fresh thyme
2 ql. approx. I 1/2 ql. 1 lb. 4 oz. 8 oz. 1 lb.
8 oz. 4 oz.
21t approx. 250 g 500 g 250 oR 120 g
I qt.
1 It
8 oz.
250 g
IT IT IT
rr rr rr rr
rr
1. Drain the dams, reserving both the dams and their liquid. Add
2. j.
4. 5.
6. 7. 8.
9.
!j~
600g
eoout*
water or stock so that the total liquid equals 2 quarts (2 liters). Simmer the potatoes in the dam liquid until nearly cooked through. Suaia and reserve the potatoes and the liquid. Render the salt pork without browning it Add the onions and ceJeJ)' am sweat until tender. Add the flour and cook 10 make a blond roux. Add the dam liquid to the raux, whisking away any lumps. Simmer for 30 minutes, skimming as necessary. Bring the milk and cream to :1 boil and add to the soup. Add the clams and potatoes, and season to taste with salt, pepper, Tab3sa:.. Worcestershire and thyme. Garnish each serving with fresh herbs .
• If using fresh clams for the chowder, wash and steam approximately I; bushel of chowder clams in a small amount of water 10 yield 1 1/4 quarts (1.21 liters) of clam meat. Chop the clams. Strain the liquid through severalla)'ersd cheesecloth to remove any sand that may be present. Add enough waler (I stock so that the lotal liqUid is 2 quarts (2 liters). Continue with the reciJt starting at slep 2. Approximate valu~5 per &-oz. (40 I-g) serving: Calo ries 250. To tal fat \5 g. Saturated fat 7 g. 0. lestero l 45 mg. SOd ium 930 mg. TOlal earboh)'drales 17 g, Proleln 11 g, Vllamill A 10%, \"1LIIIiI C 10%.
Calcium 15%
Cold Soups Cold soups can be as simple as a chilled version of a cream soup or as llniqtr as a cold fruil soup blended wilh yogurt. Other than the fact that they are cd! cold soups are difficult to classify because many of them use unique or COOlbination preparation methods. Regardless, they are divid(.>d here into two CIegories: cold soups that require cooking and those that do not.
SOUPS ..,..,
""'" Cold Soups Ibny cold soups are simply a chilled version of a hot soup. For example, cont:mme madrilene and consomme portugaise are prepared hot and served
atI. Vichyssoise, probabl}' the most popular of ;111 cold soups, is a cold verDI
of puree of potato-leek soup. When serving a hQ{ soup cold, there are
IIml considerations: llf the soup is to be creamed, add the cream al the last minute. Although curdling is nOt as much of a problem as il is with hot soups, adding the
cream at the last minute helps extend the soup's shelf lifc. L Cold soups should have a thinner consistency than hot soups, To achieve the proper consistency, use less starch if starch is used as the thickener, or use a higher ratio of liquid to main ingredient if the soup is thickened by pureeing. Consistency should be checked and adjusted al service time.
J Cold dulls the sense of taste, so cold soups require more seasoning than hot oncs. Taste the soup just before service and adjust the seasonings as needed. t Always serve cold soups as cold as possible.
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 11 .8
VICHYSSOISE (COLD POTATo-LEEK SOUp) ¥.Id, 4 qt(4 I.) leek, white part only
'l'hole butter Potato, large dice Chicken stock SlIt and while pepper Heavy cream Oii\'(~s, snipped Fried sweet potato frizzles
2 lb. 8 oz. 2 lb. 3 1/2 ql.
I kg 250 g I kg 3 1/ 2 It
IT
IT
24 oz.
700 g
as needed as needed
as needed as needed
J, Split the leeks lengthwise and wash well to remove all sand and grit. Slice
them thinly. 1 Sweat the leeks in the buller without browning them. j, Add the potatoes and chicken slock, season with salt and pepper and bring 10 a simmer. t Simmer unti1the leeks and potatoes are very tender, approximately 45 minutes, 1 Pufi'C the soup in a food processor, blender or food mill; strain through a fine sieve. . , Chill the soup well, ~ At service time, incorporate the heavy cream and adjust the seasonings. Sen'c in chilled bowls, garnished with snipped chives and sweet potato frizzles. e \';I1ue:s per 6.oz. (30 I-g) serving: Calories 300, Tow (at 22 g, SalUnlloo fat n g. ChQ. -..01 ':'0 mg. Sodium 660 mg, Total carboh)'drates 19 g. Protein 6 g. Vitamin II. 20%, Vlu·
. ",.
245
246
CI!APl1J"R II
Many cooked cold soups use fndt juice (typically apple, grape or oran as a base and are thickened with cornstarch or arrowroot as well as "l pureed fmit. For additional flavor, wine is sometimes used in lieu of 3 pcm. of the fmit juice. Cinnamon, ginger and other spices that complemem fruitlk commonly added, as is lemon or lime juice, which adds acidity as well ;ij tl: VaT. Creme fraiche, }'ogun or sour cream can be used as an ingrediem or nish to add richness.
.......
~
RECI PE 11.9
CHILLED CHERRY SOUP
Yield: 4 qt. (4 It) Cherries, pitted Apple juice Sachet: Cinnamon sticks Cloves, whole Honey Cornstarch Lemon juice 01)' champagne or sparkling wine Creme fraiche Toasted almonds
; lb. approx. 2 qt.
2.2; kg approx.211
2
2
4 6 oz.
4
170g 109 1T 1T 8 oz. 2;0 g as needed for garnish as needed for garnish I oz.
I . Combine the cherries, apple juice, sachet llnd honey. liring to 3
2.
3. 4. 5.
~lmtJ1t1
and cook for 30 minutes. Remove the sachet. Dilute the cornstarch with a small amount of cold apple juice. Add it to soup for thickening. Simmer the soup for 10 minutes to cook OUt d'. starchy flavor. Puree the soup in a food processor or blender :md strain if desired. Chill the soup thoroughly. At service, adjust the seasoning with the lemon juice. Stir in the chilka champagne or sparkling wine and serve garnished with creme fraiche 1II lOasted. slivered almonds.
Approximare v:ltu~"$ per 6-oz. C?Z9-g) serving: Calo ries t50, Total fat 0 g, Saru rall-d fat 0g. Chob ternl 0 mg. Sod ium 0 mg, TOial ca rboh yd rales 34 g. Protein I g. Vilam ln C IS%. Claims-farfJr no sodium: good :IOUrn: of fiber
VI/cooked Cold SOl/pS Some cold SOllpS are not cooked at :III. R,lther, they rely only on pum.x1 fllD! or vegetables for thickness. body and flavor. Cold stock is sometimes use
SOUPS """ ~ ===============
RECIPE 11.10
GAZPACHO \'kld:
Green pepper, medium dice Rt>d pepper, medium dice Cucumber, JX'eled, seeded, medium dice Garlic, minced Red wine vinegar Lemon juice
oz.
S oz.
1.2 kg 250 g
I I
I I
I lb. 1 oz.
500g 30g 60g 60g
2 lb. 8
2 oz. 2 oz. 4 oz.
Oheoil Slit and pepper uyenne pepper Fresh bread cmmbs (optiona l) TomalO juice
1T 1T 3 oz.
3 qt.
90g 3 It
\\rut\:" ~Iock
as needed
as needed
Tomato, peeled, seeded, small dice Red pepper, small dice Green pepper, snL111 dice Yellow pepper, small dice Cucumber, peeled, seeded, small dice
8 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz.
250 g
3 oz.
Grecn onion, sliced fine frt:'lh ua~il
2 oz. as needed
90g 60g
120 g 1T
IT
G:lmish:
120 g 120 g 120 g
as needed
I. Combine and puree :111 ingredients except the tomatO juice, stock :Ind garni.~ in a Val, food processor or blender.
1 "if in the tomalo juice. j. Adjust the consistency with the stock. .. '.tir in the wgetables, the garnishes and adjust the season ings. 1 S!..-rvc in chilled cups or bowls garnished with fresh basil. 1':Ilu!:s per 6-m. <272-g) .5(.'T\·mg: Calories 70. Total fat .5 g. Saturated fat 0 g. CholesIIftII 0 ~ SOdIum 600 mg. Total ca rbohydrates 14 g. Protein 3 g. Vitamin A 1)'110, Vitamin C Cblms-Io\\ fat~ no cholCSlcrol
GARNISHING SOUPS {iJml.lhcs c:m range from a simple sprinkle of chopped parsley on a bowl of
247
248
~
0WWi1l
-
ClASSIC
CQNso.HMts
Many classic col1SOll1Ill6s are knov.n by their garnishe;:
Guidelines for Garnishing Soups Although some soups (panicularly consommes) have traditional g:lJ'T1i:s1111 many soups depend on the chef s imagination and the kitchen's inventory the fin ishing garnish. The only rules are:
Consomrre bruooise-blanched or sauOOed
I . TIle garnish should be attractive.
brunoise of turnip, leek, celery and onion. Consomn~ juUenne-blanched or sauOOed julienne of carrot, turnip, teek, celery, cabbage and onion. ~ pa~ne-blanched or sauteed pa%lUme of leek, turnip, carrot, celery and pouto. Consomme bouqueti~assorted blanched l-egetables. Consom~ roya1e---
2. The meaLS and vegetables used should be neatly cut into an approJnll and uniform shape and size. This is panicularly important when ga~ a clear soup such as a consomme, as the consomme's clarity highlighb IIr precise (or imprecise) cuts.
3. The garnish's texture and flavor should complement the soup. 4. Starches and vegetables used as garnishes should be cooked separnlcly.• heated and placed in the soup bowl before the hot soup is are cooked in the soup, they may cloud or thicken the soup or alter its vor, texture and seasoning. 5. Garnishes should be cooked juSt until done; meat and poultry should tender but not falling apan , vegetables should be firm but not mushy, pasta and rice should maintain their identity. These types of garnishes usually held on the side and added to the he){ soup at the laSt minUlt" prevent overcooking.
Garnishing Suggestions + Clear soups-any combination of julienne cms of the same meat, pouJuy,
fish or vegetable 111m p rovides the dominant flavor in the stock or broth, vegetables (cut uniformly infO any shape), pasta (flat, small tortellini or tint ravioli), gnocchi, quenelles, barlt:!y, .'.>I-'"tlzle, while or wild rice, croutons, crepes, tortillas or won tons.
TABLE 11.1 ,n-, SoUPS, THEIR THICKENiNG AGENTS AND FINISHES
Category
Type
Clear soups
Broths Consommes Cream soups
Thick soups
Puree soups
Thickening Agent or Method None None Roox and/or pureeing Pureeing
Other soups
Bisques
Raux or rice and pureeing
Cold soups
Chowders Cook'" cold soups
Roux Roox, arrowroot, cornstarch, pureeing, sour cream, yogUrt Pureeing
Uncooked
cold soups
Finis.h Assorted garnishes Assorted garnishes Assorted garnishes, cream or bechamel saUlt Assoned garnishes; cream is optional Garnish of main ingredient, cream andiabutter Cream Assorted garnishes, CJe:IlD. creme fraiche or sour cream Assorted garnishes. cream. creme fraiche or sour cream
"'UPS ~ 249
• Cream soups, hot or cold-wasted slivered almonds, SOUf cream or creme fraiche, croutons, grated cheese or puff pastry fleurons; cream vegetable soups are usually garnished with slices or florets of the main ingredient. • Pun':'e soups-julienne cuts of poultry or ham, sliced sausage, crQutons, grated cheese, bacon bil5. • An)' sou~nely chopped fresh herbs, snipped chives, edible flowe r bIassoms or petals, parsley or watercress.
SoUP SERVICE
,b-,
Preparing Soups in Advance Most soups can be made ahead of time and reheated as needed for service. To ~r\'e freshness and quality, small batches of soup should be heated as oreded throughout the meal service. Oear soups arc quite easy to reheat because there is little danger of scorchIt· If garnishes are already added to a dear soup, care should be taken not kl overcook the garnishes when reheating the soup. All traces of fat should be rtmo\'ed from a consomme's surface before reheating. Thick soups present more of a challenge. To increase shelf life and reduce !he risk of spoilage, cool and refrigerate a thick soup when it is still a base IIlI:It is, before it is finished with milk or cream). When needed, carefully reIleal the soup base just before service using a heavy-gauge pot over low heat. !fir often to prevent scorching. Then finish the soup (following the guidelines m earlier) with boiling milk or cream, a light bechamel sauce or a liaison and ad[usl the seasonings. Always taste the soup after reheating and adjust the se2SOnings as needed.
Temperatures nr rule is simple:
Serve hot soup hot and cold soup cold. Hot clear soups
bid be served near boiling; 210°F (99°C) is ideal. Hot cream soups should
be served at slightly lower temperatures; 190°F-200°F (90°C-93°C) is acceptable. Cold soups should be served at a temperature of 40°F (4°C) or below, and are sometimes presented in special serving pieces surrounded by ice.
{ijoNCLUSION
,b-,
Soop, often served as the tirst course, may determine the success or failure of entire meal. A1thouSil a wide variety of ingrediems can be used to make b:xh clear and thick soups, including trimmings and leftovers, poor-quali[), inftdients make fXlOr-quali[), soups. By using, adapting and combining the basic techniques described in this chapter with different ingredients, you can em!e an infinite number of new and appetizing hot or cold soups. But exercise good judgment when combining flavors and techniques; they should ~d well and complement each other. Moreover, any garnishes that are added should comribute to the appearance and character of the finished soup. And remember, always serve hot soups hot and cold soups cold. II
250 ,..-,a. CHAPTER II
~pES770NS FOR DISCUSSION
.m--,
1. What arc the differences between a stock and a broth? 2. What are the differences between a beef consomme and a beef-based broth? How are they similar? 3. What are the differences between a cream soup and a puree soup? HoI\' are they similar? 4. Create a recipe for veal consomme. ;, Discuss several techniques for serving soup. What Cdn be done to ensure that soups are served at the correct temperature? 6. Explain how and why soups are garnished. Why is it sometimes said that the n()()(jles in a chicken n()()(jle soup are actually a garnish?
• Q/PDlTJONAL SOUP RECIPES .m--, RECIPE 11.11
WIW MUSHROOM SOUP Wl11l FOIE GRAS NOTE: 'Ibis dish appMrs in the Chapter qJeningpbotograph, CHRISTOPHER'S AND CHRISTOPHER'S BISTRO,
PIlOE!I'L~,
AZ
Yie ld: 8 servings
Chanterelles Poo
Duck stock White mushroom caps Olive oil Shallots, chopped fine Tomato concassee Fresh tarragon or chervil, chopped Faie gras, sinew and veins trimmed Fresh truffle (wimer or summer) White truffle oil Current tomatoes Fresh herbs
4 oz. 6 oz. 2 qt. 4 oz. 1 Tbsp. 1 Tbsp. 4 oz. 3 Tbsp. 12 oz.
120 g 180 ml 2 It 120 g 1; ml 1; ml 120g 45 ml
350 g
1
1
1 tsp. as needed as needed
5 ml as needed as needed
}, Trim the stems from the chantcrelles and set aside. 2. Reduce the port to 2 ounces (60 milliliters). Bring the stock to a boil and add the port and any mushroom SWIllS or peels. Simmer 5 minutes; straia and reserve in a warm place. 3. Saute the chanterelle caps with the white mushroom caps in the olil'e 00. Add the shallots and cook until they become soft and translucent. 4. Place the mushrooms, tomato concassee and tarl'dgon or chervil in the Intom of eight shallow soup bowls. 5. Portion the faie gras into 8 slices. Mark each slice with crosshatch marl.:s using the back of a knife blade. Sear the foie gras briefly in a very hot, dry pan.
IDUI'S ,""" 251
, Piace a slice of the foie gras on lOp of the mushrooms in the center of each
bowl. I Julienne the truffle and arrange a portion in each bowl. I Poor the hOI soup into the bowls and add a drop of lruffle oil 10 each OOwl. Garnish wilh current tomatoes and fresh herbs . •
,_~" I... JUes per serving' Calories ISO. Total fat 6 g. Saturated fat I j g, Cholesterol 220 mg, ...... 920 mg, Tow C3rbohydnltes 20 g, Prolein II g, Vilamin A 420%, Iron !!I()%
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 11.12
WILD M USHROOMS AND VEAL SOUP fteld: I ql. (I It) Garlic, minced
2 (Sp.
10 m!
OJil'c oil Assoned wild mushrooms, such as shiitake, oyster, C(~pes and morels Brown real stock Fresh parsley, minced
4 oz.
120 Illl
802.
250 g 700 m!
Fresh minI, minced
4 Thsp.
30 m! 60 Illl
Salt and pepper Fren<:h bread croutons fresh parsley, chopped fin e
IT
IT
24 oz. 2 Thsp.
as needed for garnish as needed for garnish
I. Brien}' saute the garlic in the olive oil. Add the mushrooms and cook until tender and the liquid has evaporated. 1. Add the veal broth, parsley and mint; simmer for 15 minutes. Season to taste. j Pbce one crouton in each soup bowl. L1dle in the soup and garnish with the finelr chopped parsle)'. ~Ie l":I.Iues per 6-oz. (llt -g) serving: u.Jories Z80, Total fat 24 So Saturated fat l5 g. ChoIreoI 0 mg. Sodium 460 mg, TOial carbo hydrates 15 g. Protein 3 g, Vitamin A 15%
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 11.1 3
CHICKEN SOUP wlm MATzo BALLS MATZO BALLS Yield: 48 balls
Eggs .\!lIZO meal
4 2 oz. 2 oz. 4 oz .
Sail and white pepper
IT
'f31('r
Chicken fat or bUller, softened
4 60 ml 60g 120 g IT
I. Ile:tl the eggs with the water. Stir in the fa t. 1. Add malzo meal, sail and pepper. TIle bauer should be as thick as mashed jXXJloes.
Continlled
252
~
CHAPTER II
3. Chill for at least 1 hour. 4. Bring 2 quans of water 10 a gentle boil . Using a :70 portion scoop, ~ the baner into balls. Carefully drop each ball into the hot water. Covetam simmer until fully cooked, approximately 30 minutes. Remove the !ll3I!l balls from the water and serve in hot chicken soup.
RICH CHICKEN BROTII Yield: 2 gal. (8 It)
Chicken pieces Chicken stock r-.Iirepoix Sachet: Bay leaf Dried thyme Peppercorns, crushed Parsley stems Salt and pepper Fresh parsley, chopped
8-10 lb. 10 qt l ib.
4-4.4 kg Wit 500 g
I
1
1/2 !Sp. l/2 tSp. 10
2 ml 2 ml 10
Tr
Tr
as needed for garnish
1. Simmer the chicken in the stock for 2 hours, skimming as necessary. 2. Add the mirepoix and sachet Simmer for anOlher hour.
3. Strain and degrease the broth. Adjust seasonings. 4. Bring to a boil at service time. Ponion into heated bowls, garnish \\ith av or rwo matzo balls and chopped parsley. Approxim;lle v:dues per 6.
r" ============ ~ =========== RECIPE 11.1 4
FRENCH ONION SOUP Yield: 4 qt. (4 It)
Yellow onion, sliced thin Clarified butler Beef stock Chicken stock Fresh thyme Salt and pepper Sherry Toasted French bread slices Gruyere, grated
10 lb. 8 oz.
4 qt. 4qt. 1/2 oz.
4.4 kg 250 g 4 It 4Jt 15 g
Tr
Tr
8 oz. 250 ml as needed for garnish as needed for garnish
1. Saute the onions in the butter over low heat. C.1refully caramelize thoroughly without burning. 2. Deglaze the pan with 8 ounces (250 milliliters) of the beef stock. Cook sec. Repeat this process until the onions are a very dark, even brown. 3. Add the remaining beef stock, the chicken stock and thyme. 4. Bring to a simmer and cook 20 minutes 10 develop flavor. Adjust the sonings and add the sherry.
SOUPS '"""
1 Serve in warm bowls. Top each ponion with a slice of toasted French bread and a thick layer of cheese. Place under lhe broiler or salamander until the cheese is melted and lightly browned. lRfOXIIIU!e \";IJues per
6-oz. (ISO-g)
serving: Calories ZSO. Total fat 12 g, Saturated fa t 6 g. Cho-
bIrroI 25 mg. Sodium 1370 mg. Total carboh)·dn.tes }4 g. Protein 9 g, vitamin A 25%. vita· *C KIIo
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 11.1 5
PERFUAfED SHRlAfP CONSOMME SCOITSDALE COMMUNllY COW:GE, SooTrSD.UE, AZ E:rect//ive Cbe/Domillic O'Neill \"Ield: 1 gallon (4 It)
2 lb.
Shrintp shells Shrimp meat \egetable oil Cele!)'. chopped Onion, chopped Carrol, chopped Brandy
3/4 c. 3/ 4 c. 3 oz.
Tomato paste
I oz.
Dry I"ermoulh
8 oz. 5 'It.
Shrimp or fish slack SJchcl: \\ll.olc black peppercorns Garlic cloves Bay lea~·es CorUnder seeds Whole fennel seeds Shrimp, peeled, halved and steamed Rosem.1rY sprigs Italian parsley leaves Pansy flowers
lib. 2 oz. 3/4 c.
5 2 2 5 1/4 lSp.
900g 450 g 60ml 180ml 180 ml 180ml
90 au
30 g 250 mI 5 II 5 2
2 5 1 ml
6 pieces per serving as needed for garnish as needed for garnish as needed for garnish
I. Saute lhe shrimp shells and lhe 1 pound (450 grams) of shrimp meat in the
oil. Add the vegetables and sweat. Oeglaze the pan with brandy. Z. Add the tomato paste, then lhe vermouth and stock. Bring to a boil , then reduce to a simmer. Add the sachet and simmer for 4 hours. Strain through cheesecloth. j. AdjuSt the seasonings and reheat for service. I Arrange the steamed shrimp and fresh herbs in the serving bowls. Pour the hOI consomme over the herbs and garnish wilh pansy flowers . .~ \";Ilucs per 6-m. (lSO-ml) 5tf\'ing: Calories 263, Total fat 10 g. Saturated fat 4 g. Cho1IIIrroI 167 mg. Sodium 404 mg, Tota l carbo hydrates 8 g. Protein 21 g. Vitamin A 51%, Vitamin
Cltfi\ Iron 19%
253
254
~
CHAPTER 11
====== ~. ==;=====
RECIPE 11.16
MINESTRONE Millestrone is a rich vegetable soup of Italian heritage. Northern italiall versions are made with beef stock, butler, rice and I1bbon-shaped pasta Sou/hem lIalian versiOIlS, sllch as the aile givell here, contain tomatoes. gar/ic, olive oil and tubular-sbaped pasta. tbe vegetables should befresb and varied. Substirllte or cbange those listed as necessary to reflect the seasoll. Yield: 2 gal. (8 It) Dry white beans Olive oil Onion, diced Garlic cloves, minced Celery, diced CarrOl , diced Zucchini, diced Green beans, cut in I/2-inch O.25-cm) pieces Cabbage, diced Vegetable stock Tomato concassee Tomato paste, low-sodium Fresh oregano, chopped Fresh b;lsil, chopped Fresh chervil, chopped Fresh parsley, chopped Salt and pepper Elbow macaroni, cooked Parmesan, grated
lib. 211)sp. 10 oz. 2 lib. 12 oz. I lb.
450 g 30 ml 300 g 2 450 g 340 g 450 g
10 oz.
300 g 450 g
I lb. 5 qt. 1 lb. 12 oz. 1 Thsp. 2 Thsp. 1 Tbsp. 2 Tbsp.
5 It 450 g 340g 15 ml 30 ml 15 ml 30 ml
IT
IT
40z. 120g as needed for garnish (optional)
I . Soak the beans in cold water overnight, then drain.
2. Cover the beans with water and simmer until tender, about 40 minutes. Rtserve the beans. 3. Saute the onions in the oil. Add the garlic, celery and carrots and cook fa 3 minutes. 4. Add the remaining vegetables (except the tomatoes), one type at a t~ cooking each briefly. 5. Add the stock, tomatoes and tomato paste. Cover and simmer for 2 1/210 3 hours. 6. Stir in the chopped herbs and season to taste with salt and pepper. 7. Add the drained beans and cooked macaroni. 8. Bring the soup to a simmer and simmer 15 minutes. Serve in warm 0011"11. garnished with Parmesan. Approximate values per 6-oz. (208-g) serving: CaloriC!> 70, Total fal 1.5 g, Saruralt:d fat 0 g. COO lestcro t I mg, Sodium 530 mg, Total carboh)·drales 10 g, Protein 3 g, Vitamin A 20%, \113minC 20%, Cblms-low fat
SOUP> "'"
=========== ~ ============= REC[PE 11.17
CHEDDAR AND LEEK SOUP Yl(ld: 2 qt. (2 It)
m.ole bulter ~lirtpOix, chopped fine Leek. chopped fine flour 2 oz. OIicken stock
Sachet: Bay leaf
1 oz. 8 oz. 8 oz. 60g 1 112 qt.
109
I
I 1 ml
250 g
250 g
1/4 ~p. 1/4 ~p . 4 oz. 4 oz. lib.
Dried thyme Peppercorns, crushed Dry while wine or flal beer Half-and-half Cheddar cheese, grated Sal! 1T Carenne pepper Fresh parsley, chopped Croutons
I 1/2 It
1 ml 120 g 120 ml 500 g
IT IT IT as needed for garnish as needed for garnish
I. ~\\"eat mirepoix and leeks in the butter until tender.
l ~ in the flour and cook to make a blond roux. j Add Slock and sachet and bring (0 a boil . Add wine (or beer), half-and-half and cheese. Simmer for I hour. t Strain; adjust seasonings with salt and cayenne pepper. Thin with additional warm half-and-half, if necessa1)'.
S Serre in warm bowls, garnished with parsley and croutons. ~te
v.llues per 6-oz. (23]-g) .serving: Calories 250, Total fat 18 g, Saluraled fat II g, em..
bIrroI 55 mg, Sodium 730 mg, To tal carbohydrales 8 g, Prolein 14 g, Vilamin A IS%, Calcium
" =========== ~ ============ RECIPE 11.1 8
SPELT SOUP Chef Odette Faw
oftbejormer REX IL RIST'ORANTE, Los Angeles, G1 rlCld: 6 servings
E.ma-virgin oli\'e oil
5 Thsp.
'\lirepoLX
lOoz. I
Shallot, minced leek, small, chopped fine Garlic doves, minced B3y leaves Dried rosema!)' Dried thyme Spell (whole, toasted wheal berries)
75 ml 300 g 1
2 2
2 2
1/2 tsp.
2 ml
I tsp. 4 oz.
5m! 120g COlllil1l1ed
255
256 '"""
CHAPlfR /I
Vegetable stock
1 112 it
Salt and pepper
1 1/2 qt. IT
ProsciutiO
2 slices
IT 2 slices
Spinach leaves
iO
iO
1. Saute the mirepoix, shallot, leek , garlic and herbs in 3 tablespoons (45 mil-
liliters) of the olive oil for 5 minutes. 2. Add the spell and stock; simmer for SO minutes. Remove the bay Jeal'es. j. Puree the soup, adding more stock to thin if necessary. Adjust seasonings. 4. Julienne the prosciutto. Cut the spinach in a chiITonactc. 5. Serve the soup in hot bowls. Top each portion with som!:' of The prosciutto and spinach and 1 teaspoon (5 milliliters) of olive o il. Appro~jmale V;J.lues per 6-02. (l67-g) sening: Calorit'll 146, Total {al 8 g, Saturated fal l g. (bob tern! 3 mg. Sodium 296 mg, Total carbohrdrall:s 14 g, Protein 4 g, Vitamin A 57%, Vlmmln C
====== ,~ ====== RECIPE 11.19
SOUTHWESTERN BlACK BEAN Soup Yield: 4 ql. (4 It)
Dried black beans, soaked Vegetable stock or water Sachet: Bay leaves Dried thyme Peppercorns, cracked Canola oil Onion, diced Garlic cloves, minced Anaheim chiles, diced Ja!apeno or Serrano chiles, minced Cumin, ground COriander, ground Dried oregano Salt and pepper Lime wedges Cilantro
5 qt.
500 g 5 It
2 1/2 LSp.
2 2 ml
lib.
JO lThsp.
JO
JThsp. liSp. I (Sp. 1 tsp.
15011 120 g 2 30 g 15m! 5 m! SOli SOli
IT
IT
4 oz. 2 1 oz.
as needed for garnish as needed for garnish
1. Combine the beans and stock or water and bring to a simmer. Add Ihe sa2. j.
4.
5.
6.
chet. Saute the onion", garliC and chiles in the oil. Add to the sallcepot. StiT in the cumin, coriander and oregano. Simmer the soup, uncovered, approximately 2-3 hours. The beans shoukl be very soft, just beginning to faU apan . Add additional water or stock I necessary. Puree about half of the soup, tben stir it back inlO the remaining soup. Ser son to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve in warmed bowls garnished with lime wedges and chopped cilaoou
Approximate values per 6-oz. (27t.s) serving: CaIorit's 70. Tot:1.l fat 2 g. Satur:lted fat 0 g, CIdt terol 0 mg. Sodium \0\0 mg, Total carbo hydrates 9 g, Protein 4 g, Claims-low fat; no S:ltIJrad fa!; no coolesl:eroI
SOUPS
I========== ~ ============ RECIPE 11.20
R OASTED CORN CHOWDER
rodd, I qt. (I It) Com, unshucked Milk, l\'lIrmed Salt pork, small dice Celery, small dice Onion, small dice (jarlic cloves, minced f]oo,
Cream, warmed Worcestershire sauce Fresh thyme Sutmeg, ground Salt and white pepper Parsley, chopped fine
10 ears
3 pI. 4 oz. 5 oz. 1001..
10 ears 1500 ml 120g 150 g
300 g
4
4 2 oz. 60g 120 ml 4 oz. ! Thsp. 15 ml I tsp. 5 ml IT IT IT IT as needed for garnish
I. Roost the ears of com, in their husks, in a 4OQ°F (2OQ°C) oven for 45 minutes. Cool, shuck the corn and cut off the kernels. Puree half the com ker-
1
J. .. 1 ,
7.
nels in a blender, adding a small amount of milk if necessary. Render the salt pork . Add the celery, onions and garlic, and saute lightly. Stir in the flour and cook to make a blond raux . Add the remaining warm milk and bring to a simmer. :\dd the pureed com and the remaining com kernels. Simmer 10 minutes. Add the warm cream; adjust the seasonings with Worcestershire sauce, thyme, nutmeg, salt and white pepper. 5ef"l'C in warm bowls garnished with chopped parsley .
.IfpoIlmalC Y31ues per 6.5<1z. (S8}g) SClVing: Calorics 620. Total fat 31 g, Saturated fat 16 g. ChoIIIIroI ~ mg. Sodium 590 mg. TOlal carbohrdrate5 60 g, Protein 24 g, Vitamin A 2011., Vitamin C~ Calchun 45%
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE l UI
CHICKEN AND SAUSAGE GUMBO Gumbo, a thick, SPiCY stew, is traditio/uri Jare ill the delta regio" oj the Amerium Soutb. Gumbo is lis/wily made with poUltry, fish, shellfish or SOl/sage alld is thickelled with dark rou.x. Okra or file powder (ground S4S$llfras leaves) may also be added for thickening. File powder is somehmes added at tbe time oj service Jor additional j/aoor. Gllmbo is traditionally sewed over while rice.
r••,l ql. (3 It) Olicken pieces
3-4 lb.
1.3-1.8 kg
f]oo,
as needed as needed as needed 3S needed
as as as as
Onion powder
Salt Cayenne pepper.
needed needed needed needed Continued
r"\!\.,
257
258
("'0.
CHIcP'lfR /I
Vegetable oil Flour Onion, medium dice Celery, medium dice Green bell pepper, medium dice Garlic, minced O kra, sliced and blanched Chicken stock, hot Jalapeii.o, minced Dried thyme Dried oregano Tomato paste Andouille sausage File powder, optional White rice, boiled
8 oz. 4 oz. 60z. 3 oz. 6 oz. I tsp. 5 oz. 2 qL I tsp. 1/2 tsp. 1 tsp. 4 oz. 8 oz. as needed as needed
250 ml 120g 170g 90g 170g 5 ml 140 g 2 It 5 ml 2ml 5 ml 120 g 250 g as needed as needed
1. Dredge the chicken in flour seasoned with onion powder, salt cayenne pepper. 2. Pan-fry in thc oil unlil donc; drain. j. Degrease the pan, reserving 4 ounces (J 20 milliliters) of the oil.
aoo
Add tile flour to the pan and cook 10 make a very cbrk brown rOLLX. 5. Add the onions, celery, green pepper and garlic and saute briefly. Add tilt' okra. 6. Add the chicken stock. Stir in the jalapeii.os, thyme, oregano and tOIl1l1!.i paste. Simmer uncovered for 30 minutes. 7. Bone the cooked chicken and cut the meat into 1/2-inch (l.2-centime!erl pieces. 8. Slice the 5.1usage on a diagonal into thin pieces and saUle. Rem()\"C iIl"Il drain. 4.
9. Add the chicken and sausage pieces to the gumbo. Adjust the scasoningl and simmer 30 minutes. /0. If file powder is used, stir 1-2 teaspoons (5--10 milliliters) into each]lll· lion at service lime. I I . Serve !:Idled o\'er bowls of white rice. Approxilltl!c wlucs per 6-oz. ( 276-g) scr,ing: Calories 380. Total fat 25 g. Saturated r3t :; g. OlDlesterol 80 mg, SodIum 640 mg. TouJ carbohrd r:ales 9 g. Protein 30 g. VItamin C 2(M
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 11.22
CHIuen B EEr AND BIJ1TEJlAIILK Soup BISIIOP'S RESTAURANT, VA.'icot!'"ER, Be Cbejs Alic/)(lel Allemeier (lilt! DellI/is Green Yield: 4 servings
Beets Red onion, sliced Red wine vinegar Sugar Buttermilk Salt and pepper
4 large 1 2 TI)Sp. 2 Thsp. I pI. 1T
4 large 1 30 ml 30 ml
;oQmI 1T
SOUPS ~
2 Thsp. 2 Thsp.
Chives, chopped Sour cream or creme fraiche
30011 30ml
I. In a medium saucepan, combine beets, onion, vinegar and sugar with
enough \vater to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce heal and simmer until tender, about 30 minutes. Stra in, reserving liquid for laler use. 2 Puree beets using a blender or food processor, adding enough of the rese,,'ed liquid to facilitate a smooth puree. j. ~7hen cooled to room temperature, stir in the buttermilk and season to taste with salt and pepper. If the soup is too thick, dilute it with some of !he reserved cooking liquid. Chill thoroughly. t G3mish with freshly chopped chives, and a quenelle of sour cream or creme fraiche. IpproXllNtC values per 6-01.. (180-g) serving: Calories 120. Total fat 3 g, Saturated fat 1.5 g. Cho1IsItro1 7 mg. Sodium t70 mg. Total carbo hydrates 19 g, Protein 5 &, Vitamin C tem
============ ~ =============
.
-
41:.
RECIPE
11.23
FRESH PEACH AND YOGURT SOUP
Yield: 2 qt. (2 It)
Fresh peaches Dry white wine
Honey lemon juice Cinnamon, ground Plain yogUIt, nonfat Heavy cream Pistachios, chopped fine
4 oz.
1.8 kg 700011 120 g
2 oz. 1/4 tsp.
60ml 1 ml
4 lb. 24 oz.
8 oz.
225 g
IT
IT
as needed for garnish
I. Pit and coarsely chop the peaches without peeling. place in a nonreactive
saucepan. Add wine, honey and lemon juice. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. 2 Pur(-e the peach mixture in a blender. Strain and chill. j. Stir in cinnamon, yogurt and heavy crC'dm. 40 Chill thoroughly. Serve in chilled bowls, garnished with finely chopped pistachio nuts. "RlfUXimlte I-..Iues per OOz. (292-g) serving: Calories 140, Total fat 0 So Saturated fat 0 So CholaImIl 0 rug. Sodlum 20 mg. Toul carboh}"drates 32 g. Protein .3 So Vitam in A I<M, Vitamin C 2~ a.IID5--&t f~ ~ \01>.. sodium, good 5OU.rtt of fiber
259
260
~
GfAPl'ER II
============ ~ ===========
..--...
....:.
RECIPE 11.24
CHILLED ROASTED RED PEPPER COuLlS RIVIERA RFSJ"AURANT, ArusrA, GA CbejJ(lck Sboop, CrlfC
Yield: 2 servings Peppers, roasted in oil and peeled, (reserve the oil) Red onion, diced Leeks, sliced Garlic, minced Reserved pepper oil Thyme fla sil flay leaf Vegetable stock Vermouth Sea salt White pepper Red balsamic vinegar Cucumber, thinly sliced Italian parsley
12 oz. 2 fup_ 2 Thsp. 2 cloves 2 oz. 1 sprig 1 sprig
360g 30ml 30ml 2 cloves
60 1111 I sprig 1 sprig
I
I
2 oz. 2 oz.
60g 60g
11-
lT 17 30ml as needed 4 sprigs
IT 21bsp. as needed 4 sprigs
1. S\veat the peppers, onions, leeks and garlic in the pepper oil for 3 minwa
2. Tie the herbs into a oouquet gami. Add the siock, vermouth and Simmer the soup 20 minutes.
h~
3. Remove the herbs and discard. Puree the pepper mixture until I'e!!' smooth . Strain and season to taste with salt, pepper and red balsamic \'in!gar. Approximate vatues per 6-07.. (t8().g) serving: Ca lOries 125. Tow fal .75 g, Satur.ated fal 0 g. 0. lesterol 0 mg, Sodium 150 11Ig, Tow carbohydrales 53 g, Protein 3 g, Vitam in C 23(m. Iron NIOalms-low fal: no cholc5lcrol~ high fiber
..
HAPTER
,_. .
$ou"'CI~!~l':t ~CI.. 'tIP
12
RINCIPLES OF EAT OOKERY
...... m 13".:f.~~:','~IOOt/~ . -
110"
•
I "
•
I
=== ~ === After studying this chapter, you will be able to: ~
understand the structure and
composition of meats I""a.
understand meat inspection and
~
grading practices purchase mealS appropriate for
~
your needs store me:lts properly
("\!\..
~
prepare meats for cooking apply various cooking methods
to meals
eal~beef,
sUlne the largest portion of),our food purchasing dollar. In this chapter, u,'e disC/iSS how to protect you r ;'westment. You will leam hou'rJ determine the quality of meat, how to purchase meat in the form IbtI best suits your needs and how to store it. We also discuss several a/1M dIy-heat, moist-heal and combination cooking methods introduced in Chapter 9, PI1·nciples of Cooking, and how they can best be IIsed so that a finished meat item is appealing to both the eye and pa/aJt Although each of Ihe cooking methods is i/lustrated with a Single bef{. veal, lamb or pork recipe, the analysis is intended to apply to as meats. In Chapters 13 through 16, you will learn abou t the specific clIIsif beef, veal, lamb and pork typically used in food selvice operatiollS, os well as some hasic butchering procedures. Recipes using these cutt and applying the various cooking me/hods are illcluded at the elld~ each of those chapters.
M USCLE COMPOSITION Primal cuts-liJe prill/flry dids/(ms of TIIuse/e, bol/e (illd COll1leclil'e fissueprodllmJ by the fllillal bllldJering of the coram. Subprimal cuts-lbe btlSfc ellis {l1Odllctdfrom f(1dJ primo/. fabricated cuts-illdidllllni portions cui from S1/bpril/U//.
(I
veal, lamb al1d pork-oftell con·
.N-,
The carcasses of cattle, sheep, hogs and furred game animals consist mainl}·d edible lean muscular tissue, fat, connective tissue and OOnes. They are di\"idN into large cutS called primals. Primal cuts are rarely cooked; rather, they 2ft usually reduced to subprimal cuts , which in tum, can be cooked as ~ Il' used to produce fabricated cuts. For example, the beef primal known as1 short loin can be divided into subprimals, including the strip loin. The ~ loin can be fabricated into other CUlS , including New York steaks. The primi1 subprimals and fabricated cuts of beef, veal, lamb and pork are discussed I Chapters 13 through 16, respectively; game is discussed in Chapter 18. Muscle tissue gives meat its characteristic appearance; the amount of car nective tissue determines the meat's tenderness. Muscle tissue is approximatel! 72% water, 20% protein. 7% fat and 1% minerals. A single muscle is ((It posed of many bundles of muscle cells or fibers held together by conneail"t tissue. See Figures 12.1 and 12.2, The thickness of the celis, the size of theed bundles and the connective tissues holding them together form the grain ofdr meat and determine the meat's texture, When the fiber bundles are small, tIr meat has a fine grain and texture. Grnin also refers to the direction in whidl the muscle fibers traveL When an animal fattens, some of the water and pr0teins in Lhe lean muscle tissue are replaced with fat, which appears as . .
Marbling-fchitUb slMIRs if itller- find imrt'l-
bling.
IIIllSCtllnr ja/.
Connective tissue forms the walls of the long muscle cells and binds tin into bundles. It surrounds the muscle as a membrnne and also appears as til tendons and ligaments that attach the muscles to the oone. Most conne«il't tissue consists of either collagen or elastin. Collagen breaks down into gelatin and water when cooked using moist heat. Elastin, on the other hand, will !Xl break down under normal cooking conditions. Because elastin remains SI~ and tough, tendons and ligaments should be trimmed awa}' before meat ~ cooked.
Subcutaneous fat- the/at layer beluwnlbe bide (lnd lIIuscles, (lfsrJ 10lil00'1/ (lS exterior/al. EJastln--a protein /olilld ill WII1U'WIJe tisslles, par/ict/lnriy ligamel/ts (md Il!Iulons; it often a{!prors as the u-bile or sill," OOImng 011 meals k/1f)U71 as siltY!rSRifl.
PRINClPI.ES OF /olEAr COOKERY ~
...... "'m~'" I
~ .. - 5~· '
265
:t' ~
fRu12.1 Mllscle TiSSlle
F!GURE 12.2
Coonecth'e tissue develops primarily in the frequently used muscles. Therefrom the shoulder (also known as the chuck), which the aoirW uses constantly, tend to be tougher than those from the back (also known II !he loin), which :tre used Jess frequently. As an animal ages, the collagen pr:sent within the muscles becomes more resistant \0 breaking down through DIN heat cooking. TIlcrefore, the meal of all older animal tends 10 be bJgber than that of a younger one. Generally, the tougher the meal. the more ~. cuts of meat
inOOu] it is.
Crosscut oJtI Blllltlle oJMuscle Nllers
Butc he r- IOsklllgbier alld dress or jnbri«lle allimals for amSllmpliof/,
Drcss--lo lrilll or OIbertlN- prrparr (11/ (llIimal wrmss joramSllmplioli.
Fabricale-lo WI a it/fEW portioll of raw meal (for /!Xi/nlp/t', II pril1U11 or slIbprimal). poll/IT]' or jisb i1l10 smaller pornollS.
Carre-to ellf t:1JCJfft1 mitll or /JOIII",. into portio/IS.
NIJf'RfJ70N
.h-,
Akhcugh the nutritional content of beef, veal, pork and lamb differs, generally, all m.' high in protein, saturated fats and cholesterol. See Table 12.1. Con!IIIIled in moderate quantities, however, meat can be pan of a healthful diet.
lIIII£ 12.1 J'r>
NlITRITIONAL VAI.UES 0' MEArs
I ounce (28 gr.lm.~) lkooked leln Meat
Protein (g)
T0I31 Fat
Kcal
94
4.6
~
;Jed--brish1
hf.-r-bone Sleak Itft-ground IeJn
77
5.0 5.0
Saturmcd Fat (g)
Cholesterol
8.2 6.2 5.9
3.4
22
2.5 2.4
19
2.6 1.9
1.1 0.8 0.5 4.3
23 23
,...,
22 22
"
23 18 16
0.6
18
23
(g)
75 46 41
;.5
~
36
;.8
1.3
IB-
106 81 40
4.1 4.9 5.6
9.8 6.7 1.8
~ 'YIII-1!roond leg :md shoulder
PIIk~p3reribs rat~houldt'r " Confll~
(picnic)
T Setzer EIIC)'doped/u of Foot/l'lIflies f992
5.4
(mg)
21
Sodium (mg)
18 14
,.20., 21
266
~
CHAPTER 12
~ DOMESTlCA1'ION OF ANIMAlS
Early humans v.~re hunter-gatherers, dependent on what their immediate environment offered for food. As "opportunistic'· meat eaters, they ate meat when they could obtain it. Anthropologists believe that the cultivation of grains and the birth of agriculture, which took place sometime around 9000 B.C., led directly to the domestication of animals. Sheep and goats were attracted to the fields of grain, and dog<; and pigs to the garbage heaps of the new communities. Rather than allow these animals to interfere with food production,
they ,'(ere lamed, thus providing a StM! supply of meat. The first animals to be iiimesticated ,vere most likely sheep, SOOII ij. lo\\w by goats. These animals-ruminanllcan digest ce!lulose (humans cannot), SOtM could feed on stalks instead of valuJi grains. Dogs and pigs, which prefer the sm foods as humans, were tamed later, once tIa were more certain food supplies. Canle 1Ut the most recently domesticated food animi. probably coming under control between 61!D and 5800 B.C.
INSPEroON AND GRADING OF MEATS .n-,
Inspection All meat produced for public consumption in the United States is subjea 1/1 USDA inspection. Inspections ensure that products are processed under SIDl sanital), gu idelines and are wholesome and fit for human consumption Irr speclions do not indicate a meat's quality or tenderness, however. Whole at· casses of beef, pork, lamb and veal are labeled with a round stamp idemil)· ing the slaughterhouse. See Figure 12.3. 111e stamp shown in Figure 12.4 ~ used for fabrica ted or processed meats and is found either on the product (1 its packaging. FIGURE 12.3
USDA Inspection Stamp Jar
Whole C(lrcasses
Grading USDA grading provides a voluntary, uniform system by which producers. di!tributors and consumers can measure differences in the quality of meats an:! make price-quality comparisons. There are two parts to this grading s)"ste!t quality grades and yield grades. Quality grades, established in 1927, are a guide to tbe eating qualitiesd meat: its tenderness, juiciness and flavor. Based on an animal's age and tIr meat's color, texture and degree of marbling, the USDA quality grades are:
FIGURE 12.4 USDA Inspection Stamp Jar Fabricated or Processed Meats
+ Beef-USDA Prime, ChOice, Select, Standard, Commercial, Utility, CUller and Canner + Veal-USDA Prime, ChOice, Good, Standard, Utility + Lamb--USDA Prime, Choice, Good, Utility + Pork-USDA No.1 , No.2, No. 3, Utility USDA Prime meats are produced in limited quantities for lise in the fines restauranlS, hotels and gourmet markets. They are well marbled and have thrl coverings of firm fat. See Figure 12.5. USDA Choice meat is the most commonly used grade in quality foo:! S('I". vice operations and retail markets. Choice meat is well marbled (but with less fat than Prime) and will produce a tender and juicy product.
PRINC/PLFSOFJl/EATCOOKERY ~.
~~
........
.A.
......
-A
~
PRIME
E L , 0
~-
yI
~
10.115 Grade Sttlmp for USDA Prime
FIGURE
~
USDA>
USDA~
-
A.
267
3
R G
A
0
E~
12,6 USDA Yield Grade St(/mp
.~!hough lacking the flavor and tenderness of the higher grades, beef ¢'d USDA Select or US DA St:lndard, lind 1:l1nb and veal graded USDA Good. are also used in food service operat ions and retail outlelS. The lowcr gradcs of beef, lamb and veal are usually used for processed, ~ Of manufactured items such as meat patties or canned meat products. Y'lfld grades, established in 196;, measure the amoum of usable meat (as ~ to fat and bones) on a carcass and provide a uniform method of i.imif)ing cutability differences among carcasses. Yield grades apply only 10 trd" and lamb and appear in a shield similar to that used for the quality grade lamp. The shields are numbered from I to ;, with number I represeming the Jl2!e:sl. }ield and number 5 the smallest. See Figure 12,6, Beef and lamb can bt graded for either quality or yield or both. Grading is a mlumal)' program. Many processors, purveyors and retailers cspedaUy pork and veal producers) develop and use their own labeling systms to provide quality assurance information. These private systems do not Il'C\"$3rily apply the USDA's standards.
""""'SAfll7l' "
A HISTORY OF MEAI'
Mdtnl limes: The biblical books of Ex-
~I.e\iticus and Deuteronomy set forth strict about the kinds of :U1imals that ~ be eaten and how they should be
~~ cenluries: The first
\:tVi$ rein Florence ~l~ The}' required butchers to be licensed "mrmewtheir license<; annually; prohibited tations. substitutions and unsani~~ and plQ\1ded for inspections. 1'JU6: ~, France (Canada) enacted !he .. mt inSpeCtion la\\'S in North America. ~ fft(UiMl butchers to notify authorities ~ animals \\~ to be slaughtered SO mal ~1IraI rould be impected. Fanners v,ere reto certify thai animals destined fOf
~.meat hygiene Wl!re enacted
p..
~~heaJmv.
11805: Duringthis period of rising Ameri~1InI exports, mmors circulated in Europe
- ------
_.
MEASURES
that American beef was diseased. Partially 10 alia), these fears, Congress enacted laVi'S providing for final proouci inspection upon the request of a bU)"I!f, seHer or exporter. 1891 and 1895: U.S. meat inspection lall'S were strengthened. They did not, however, establish a national meat inspection system. 1906: Fueled in pan by Upton Sinclair's ool'el 1be JUllgle, in \\nich he describes the horrendous working and sanitary conditions in Oticago slaughterhouses, public pressure persuaded Congress to pass the Comprehensh'l! Meat Inspection Act. This act strengmened requirements for sanitary conditions in packinghouses and reqUired inspection of meat sold in interstate commerce. 1938: National legislation prohibited 011the-fann slaughter of animals and re;tricted commercial slaughter operations to packing plants.
1967: nle Wholesome Meat Act enabled the USDA 10 regulate transporters, processors of meat byproducts. cold storage warehouses and animal food manufacturers. Hygiene requirements for imported meats \\"I!re toughened and inspection of all anImals before slaughl£r became mandatory. 1978: The Humane Methods of Slaughter Act amended pl'e\ious Ja\\'S to require that humane methods be used when slaughtering Jil'e""k. Presenl: Meat inspection has been adminiSl£red by !he USDA's Food Safety and Inspection Sen1ce (FSIS) since 1981. The eurrent deregulatory trend places heighl£ned quality-control responsibilities on !he management of slaughter facilities. This reflects !he belief that Ihe wholesomeness of !he final product is the responsibility of born industry and gOI"l!nunent.
268
,
C/WTfh'R 12
~
A 1'EII'DF.R HISTOKY
In Food ill HislQr)', Reay Tannahill suggests thaI prehistoric huntel5 developed weapons and stealth tactics in o~r to kill their quarry \\ithout alerting iltodanger and
promking fright, fight or flighl She notes that muscle tissUES from a.nimals that die placidly contain glroogen. At death, glroogen breaks dovm into various substances, including tactic acid, a natural preservalil'e. Animals experiencing fright, figlJl or flight just before death, however, use up their glycogen. Tannahill theori7.es that prehistoric hunters recognized and responded to what science much later continned: Meat from animals Ihat die peacefully is SY.'t'eter and more tender.
Vacuum packaglng--a food prtsenYlOOII
lIIe1fxxJ i1/ II-bich 1mb or aJOitrl footl it pIamJ i" UII airligbl ro"loi,," (usllolI)' pInstic). I1rlUfIIIy
all air it "monx/from fhe tx)llloiller Ihrough" mcuulII prrJa'SS. "tid lbe «JIII";,,er it lbe" $t.'(lltd
AGING MEATS
.n-.
When animals are slaughtered, their muscles are soft and flabby. Within h 24 hours, rigor mortis sets in, causing the muscles to contract and stiffen. R.ip mortis dissipates within 48 to 72 hours under refrigerated conditions. All mea should be allowed to rest, or age, long enough for rigor mortis to dissipa completely. Meats that have nOI been aged long enough for rigor monis to," sipate, or that have been frozen during this period, are known as -grM mealS. ~ They will be very lough and flavorless when cooked. Typically, initial aging takes place while the meat is being transponedm. the slaughterhouse 10 the supplier or food service operation. Beef and lantI are sometimes aged for longer periods to increase their tenderness and !laltf characteristics. Pork is no! aged fu rther because its high fa t coment {urns IlOcid easily, and veal does not have enough fat to protect it during an exteOO!d aging period.
WetAging Today, most preportioned or preCut meats are packaged and shipped in 11:· uum-sealed plastic packages (sometimes known generically by the manufac· turer's trade name, Cryovac·). \,(Iet aging is the process of storing \'3cuumpackaged mealS under refrigeration for lip 10 six weeks. nlis allows nann enzymes and microorganisms time to break down connective tissue, wild tenderizes and flavors the meat. As this chemical process takes place, the meJ develops an unpleasant odor Ihat is released when the package is opened: IIr odor dissipates in a few minutes.
Dl'yAging Dry aging is {he process of hanging fresh meats in an environment of em trolled temperature, humidit}' ,md air flow for up to six weeks. This allowseft' zymes and microorganisms to break down connective tissues. Dry aging in:· tually the beginning of the natural decomposition process. Dry aged meatsall lose from 5% to 20% of their weight through moisture evaporation. They C2Il also develop mold, which adds flavor but must be trimmed off later. Moist~ loss combined with additional trimming can substantially increase the cOS! ri dry aged meats. Dry aged meats arc generally available only through smaller distributors and specialty butchers.
P URCHASING AND STORING MEATS
.n-.
Several factors determine the cuts of meat your food service operation shoo.: use: 1. j\'!enu: The menu identifies the types of cooking methods used. If meats~
to be broiled, grilled, roasted, sauteed or fried , more tender CUlS should k used. If they are to be slewed or braised, flavorfu l cuts with more connec· tive tissue can be used. 2. Menu price: Cost constraints may prevent an operation from using the best· quality meats available. Generally, the more tender the meat, the more eJ· pensive it is. But the most expensive cuts are not always the best choo for a particular cooking method. For example, a beef tenderloin is one d
PRlNClPllS OF MEAT COOKERY
!hi: mcw. expensive CUts of beef. Although excellent grilled, it will not necl"<\lril)' produce a better braised dish than the fallier brisket. 1. Quality Often, scyeral cutS of meal can be used for a specifi c dish, so each Id service operation should develop its own quality specifications.
Purchasing Meals iJrk"t' lOU hare identified the Ctlts of meat your operation needs, you muSt detl'mine Ihe fomls in which they will be bought. Meals are purchased in a va-
ci fonns: as large as an entire carcass that must be further fabricated or ..ual! a~ an individual cut (known as portion control or P.e.) ready 10 JnU ~.'rve. You should consider the follow ing when deciding how to pur,t-J...... nll.";)~:
rr!\
I. Emplop.."c skills: Do your employees have the skills necessary to reduce 1l1J:l.' pieces of meat to the desired cuts?
1. \knu: Can you use the v'lriet)' of bones, meat and trimmings that result from fahricating large cuts into individual pDnions? j I,(OCIgc; Do rou have ample refriger.nion and freezer space so that you can ~ fiexihle in the way you purchase your meats? f. (0.,1 Con~idering labor COStS and Irim usage, is it more economic:llto buy iJrgt'r cuts of meal or P.C. units? ~IW
r.,. r,DA publishes [nstilUtional to·leal Purchasing Specifications (IM PS) deTIlling produm U1slomarily purchased in the food service industry. IMPS ll.:lllifil'ations :Ire illuSITated and described in The Melli Bllyers Gllide, pub1Nk.'tl hy the Nationa! Association of Meat Purveyors (NAMP). The IMPS/ NAM P em i\ a widel)' accepted and useful tool in preventing miscomlllunications 1$t'\.'11 purchasers and purve)'ors. MealS are indexed by a numerical system: ~ tllb are designated b)' Ihe 100 series, lamb by Ihe 200 series, veal by the W'ol'1'ic!;. pork by the 400 series, and portion ClItS by the 1000 series. Comttlotll) u~.'d mlS of beef, veal, lamb and pork and their IMPS numbers, :IS well .bJpplicahlc cooking methods and serving suggestions, are discussed in ChapIro 13 through 16.
StoringMeats products are highly perishable, so temperature control is the most imthing 10 remember when storing meals. Fresh meals should be stored 1I 1t'lllper:ll\lreS between 30°F and 35°F (-1°C 102°C). Vacuum-packed meats -MIld he left in their packaging until Ihey are needed. Under proper refriger1OOIl. racuum-packed meats with unbroken seals have a shelf life of three to t .... \\t.'Cks. [f the seal is broken, shelf life is reduced 10 only a few days. MealS ttw are not \"3U1um p.1cked should be loosely wrapped or wr::lpped in airpt'TIl)..-:lhle pJpcr. Do not wrap mealS lightly in plastic wrap, as this creates a gcnl breeding ground for bacteria and will significantly shorten a meat's -hell life. Store meats on trays and away from other foods to prevent crossrontJmin.1tion. \1t-l1.'o freeze at-about 28°F (_2 eC). When freeZing meats, Ihe faster the bet!t1 'ill)" freezing produces large ice crystals lhal lend to mplure the muscle !Nllt"-i, allowing water and nutrients to drip OUI when Ihe meal is thawed. lbit l"Ommerci:lIly packaged meals are frozen by blast freeZ ing. which quickly Ibl
p:PI'l.ln1
269
~
No, IT
DoESN'T
GLOW
Fresh and frozen beef, lamb, pork and poultry can be irradiated in order to control the presence of microorganisms. such as E. coli and Salmooella, which can cause food· bome illnesses. Although the pemliued dose of ionizing raLii:ltion kiUs significant numbers of insects, pathogenic bacteria and par3Sites on and in the meat, it does not make food radioacti\'e or compromise the roofs nutritional values. Nordoes radiation noticeably alter a food's f1a\'Or. texlllre or appear· ance. TIle FDA requires that an)' packaged food subjected to r:wiatiOll for preser.'ation be labeled "'treated v.ith radiatioo"' or "treated by irr:tdiation"' and display the radura S}mbol shoo-l1 here.
2 70
.-'\!I
ClW'TF.R 12
Fr ee-Ler burn--tbe smina dtbytir(l/ion and disooIoralifm of.food IbaJ millis/rom moistllre loss al btIou'frtchl8 ItmfJemlllN.'$.
cools by blasting -40"F (-400C) air across the meat. Most food service fd ties, however, use a slower and more conventional method known as stiII-JI freezing. Still-air freezing is the common pmctice of placing meat in a SiaJ"IdJ:.: freezer at about O"F (-18"C) until it is frozen. The ideal temperarure for maintaining frozen meat is -50"F (--45"C). FIlllIJ meat should nO{ be maintained at any tempemture warmer than Q"F H Moisture- and \'aporproof packaging will help prevent freezer bum 1Ir length of frozen storage life varies with the species and type of meat. Asap eral rule, properly handled meats can be frozen for six months. Frozen l'OeIl should be thawed at refrigemtor temper:Hures, not at room tempernrure ell warm water.
PREPARING MEATS .b> Cellain procedures are often applied to meats before cooking 10 add Aam andlor moisture. These include marinating, barding and larding.
Marinating
Marinating ell/eken Breasts
Marinati n~ is the process of soaking meat in a seasoned liquid to flaror.m tenderize it. Marinades can be simple blends (herbs, seasonings and oil) (J I complicated cooked recipe (red wine, fruit and other ingredients). Mild !IWInades should be used on more delicate meats, such as veal. Game and 1l!! require strongly flavored marinades. In wine-based marinades, white wine, usually used for white meats and red wine for red meats. Not only does II wine add a distinctive flavor, the acids in it break down connective tissues III! help tenderize the meat. Veal and pork generally require less time to marinate than game, beef:m! lamb. Smaller pieces of meat take less time than larger pieces. When rn:lJd. ing, be sure to cover the meat completely and keep it refrigerated. Stir or !Ill the meat frequently to ensure that the m:trinade penetrates evenly.
Barding Barding is the process of covering the su rface of meat or poultry with tril slices of pork fatback and tying them in place with butcher'S twine. BanlG meat or poultry is usually roasted. As the item cooks, the fatback cominuooS! bastes it, adding flavor and moisture. A drawback to barding is that the fa~ prevents the meat or poultry from developing the crusty exterior associato:I with roasting.
narding tll'/)e(JS(/n/
PR}NQPlliS OF MEAT COOKERY ~~ 271
Jnng is the process of inserting small Strips of pork fat into meat with a lard"needle. llrded meat is usually cooked by braising. During cooking, the akld fat contributes moisture and flavor. Although once popular, larding is • . used today because advances in selective breeding produce consistently 1I:Ier, well-marbled meat.
VARIOUS COOKING METHODS .n-, 1l00pter 9, Principles of Cooking, you learned [he basic techniques for broilII&. grilling, roasting, sauteing, pan-frying, poaching, simmering, braising and Rtoing In Chapters 13 through 16, you will learn more about applying these OXlking methods to beef, veal, l:unb and pork. Here we apply these methods IImt cookery in general. Deep-frying is covered in Chapter 21 , Deep-Frying.
Dry-Heat Cooking Methods ~.fx>:It cooking methods subject food directly [ 0 [he heat of a flame (broiling lid grilling), hot air (roasting) or heated fat (sauteing and pan-frying). These cooking methods firm proteins without breaking down connective tissue. They Ie oot J'{'(ommended for tougher cuts or those higb in connective tissue.
hI/hrg Qnd Grilling To5('!"\e 3 good-qualiry broiled or grilled product, you must sta rt with good~. meat. The broiling or grilling process adds flavor; additional flavors are
demed from the seasonings. 111e broiler or grill should brown the meat, keep.. the inlerior juicy. The grill should leave appetizing crosshatch marks on the n\ surface.
Stiectillg Meals 10 Broil or Grill Only the mOSt tender cuts should be broiled or grilled because direct heat
ta not tenderize. Fat adds flavor as the meat cooks, so the meat should be wdI nurbled. Some external fat is also beneficial. Too much fat , however, will ause the broiler or grill to flare up, burning or discoloring the mem and IIkIing ob;ectionable flavors. Connective tissue toughens when meat is broiled cr,ruled. SO trim away as much of it as possible.
SIIISonillg Meals 10 be Broiled or Grilled Mea~ th3t have not been marinated should be well seasoned with salt and pepper just before being placed on the broiler or grill. If they are preseasoned lDdaUowed to rest, the salt will dissolve and draw out moisture, making it difiruk to hrown the meat properly. Some chefs feel so strongly about this that ~. season broiled or grilled meats only after they are cooked. Pork and veal, wtich It:!I'e a tendency to dry out when cooked, should be basted with seam:d huuer or oil during cookiQg to help keep them moist. MealS can be aIm'd or basted with barbecue sauce as they cook.
Cooiillg Temperatures Red meats should be cooked at sufficiently high temperatures to caramelize
trr 9Jrface, making them more attractive and flavorful. At the same time, the lIIiIer or grill canna{ be arrior is cooked.
[00
hot, or the meat's exterior will burn before the
larding Meat
272
~~
CHAPTER 12
Because \'eal and pork are nonnally cooked to higher imemal temper.!!UIt! than beef and lamb. they shou ld be cooked at slightly lower teJ1lper:ltures~ that their exteriors are nO! overcooked when their interiors are cooked JlIU" efly. The exterior of white meats should be a deep golden color when fin"
Degrees ofDoneness
FIGURE 12.7 Degreeso/lJollelless Meal cooked rare, medill/II rare, mediulII (llId medium Il'ell
Consumers request and expect meatS to be properly cooked to specific&grees of doneness. It is your responsibility to understand and comply "_ these requeSts. MealS can be cooked very rare (or bleu), rare, medium 11K medium, medium well or well done. Figure 12.7 shows the proper coIodr these different degrees of doneness. This guide can be used for red mea cooked by any method. L1rgef cuts of meat, such as a ch:iteaubriand or thick chops, are dta; staned on the broiler or grill to develop color and flavor and then finished it the oven 10 ensure complete, even cooking.
Determining Doneness Broiling or grilling meat to the proper degree of doneness is an an. ~ pieces of meat will take longer to cook than smaller ones, but how quicklp piece of meat cooks is determined by many other factors: the temperature the broiler or grill, the tempeiJture of the piece of meat when placed 00 It broiler or grill, the type of meat and the thickness of the cut. Because of tift variables, timing alone is not :L useful tool in determining doneness. nle most reliable method of detennining doneness is by pressing the piM of meat with a finger and gauging the amount of resist:mce it yields. Verynr (bleu) meat will offer :llmost no resistance and feel almost the same as raw mea: Meal cooked rare will feel spongy and offer slight resistance 10 pressure. Ma cooked medium will feel slightly firm and springy to the touch. Meat cooked~d done will fee l quite firm and spring back quickly when pressed. See Table 121
Accompaniments 10 Broiled lind Grilled Meats Because a broiler or grill cannot be deglazed \0 form the base for a S31Xt compound butters or sauces such as I:>e-Jrnaise are oflen sen'ed with brcit or grilled meats. Brown sauces such as bordelaise, chasseur, perigueu~ « brown mushroom 5.1UCe also complemem many broiled or grilled items. AOitional sauce suggestions are found in Table 10.5.
TABLE 12.2 ,n-, D ETERM IN L~G DONENESS Degree of Doneness
Color
Degree of Resistance
Vel)' rJre (bleu)
Almost no resistance
Rilrc
Very red and rJ\y-looking center (the center is cool 10 the touch) large deep red center
Medium rare
Bright rt'd center
Medium Medium well
Rosy pink 10 red center VelY lillIe pink at the center, almost brown Ihroughout No red
Well done
Spongy; vel)' slight resistance Some resisl:ance; slightly springy Slightly firm; springy Firm; spring}· Quilc firm ; springs met quickly when p~
PRINCIPLES OF MEAT COOKER)'
I'RocEntRE
r"'\!l,
273
FOR BROILING OR GRILLING MEAl'S
I. Heat the broiler or grill. 1. l"St' a wire brush to remove any charred or burnt particles that may be -.Iud to the broiler or grill grate. TIle grate can be wiped with a lightly oikd towel to remove any remaining particles and to help season it. .1 Pn-p:!re the item to be broiled or grilled b}' trimming off any excess fat and connecti\'e tissue and marinating or seasoning it as desired. The meat may b.> bru!;hed lightly with oil to help protect it and keep it from sticking 10 the grate. t Place the ilem in the broiler or on the grill. Following the example in Chapler9, tum the meat to produce the attractive crosshatch marks a.\SO(i:ued with grilling. Use tongs to turn or flip the meat without piercing the surface (this prevents valU:lble juices from escaping). ~ Cook the meat to the desired doneness while developing the proper ~1Jrl:1ce color. To do so, adjust Ihe position of the meat on the broiler or grill, or adjust the distance between the grme and heat source.
1. Bmshing the Jamb chops with oil.
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 12. 1
GRIlLED LAMB CHOPS WITH
HERB BUTTER
Yidd: 2 servings
Lunb chops, loin or rib, approx. 1 in. (2.5 em) thick \1h and pepper ();J
Ht'tb bUller
2. Placing the lamb chops on the
grill.
6
6
Tf
Tf
as needed as needed 6 thin slices or 6 small roseltes
I. Preheat the grill for 15 minutes. l. X:l5On the lamb chops with salt and pepper; bmsh with oil.
.1 PIJCC the lamb chops on the grill, turning as necessary to produce the proper crosshatching. Cook to the desired doneness. t Remol'e Ihe lamb chops from the grill and place ;I slice or roselle of herb boner on each chop. ~ Serve immediately ;IS the herb bUller melts. The plme can be placed under !he broiler for a few seconds to help melt the herb buller. .9IWe I"alucs per 6.5-
3.
l~otating the lamb chops 90 degrees to cre:lIe crosshalch marks .
IlXlSlillg ~) roasted meats should be tender, juicy and evenly cooked to (he apopriJtc degree of doneness. 111ey should have a pleasant appearance when ole as well as when sliced :md plated.
SPfeclillg Meats to Roast !kcause roasting is a dry-heat cooking method and will not tenderize the . 4l!.'d product, meats thai are to be roasted should be tender and well mar"i'd. They arc usually Cllt from the rib, loin or leg sections.
4. Turning the chops over to finish them on the other side.
274
awTJ'E'R 12
Seasoning Meals to be Roasted
TABLE 12.3 Degree of Imernal Donenes.~
Minutes Temperatufl! per Pound'
rare
125-130°F 52-54°C Rare 130-140°F )4-6O°C 140-lsooF Medium 6O-(,6'C Wdl done 150-165°F 66-7<\°C \'cry
12-15 15-18
111-20 20-25
'Assume:; meat was at room leffiplTJ1Ure
hcfore roosting and cooked
\II
a cons1ant
j25°F 062·C).
Seasonings are especially important with smaller roasts and rooslS with tie or no fat covering. With these roasts, some of the seasonings penctrall' meat while the remainder help create the highly seasoned crust aSSOClO. with a good roasl. A large roast with heavy fat co\'ering (for exampk steamship round or prime rib) does nOI benefil from being seasoned on surface bealUse the seasonings will not penetrate the fat laycr. wbich trimmed away before service. \X/hen praclical , a roast with excess fat should be trimmed, leaving ju.~ thin fat layer so that the roast bastes itself while cooking. A lean roast can barded or brded before cooking 10 add richness and mois!Ure. L1mb legs sometimes slUdded with garlic cloves by piercing the meat with a paring and Ihen pressing slivers of mw garlic inlO the holes. A roast is sometimes cooked on a bed of mircpoix, or mirepoix is added the roasting pan as the roast cooks. The mirepoix raises the rQ..1St off the- h:1 tom of the roasting pan, preventing the bottom from overcooking. This mil poix, however, does not add any flavor 10 the r0.1Sl. Rather, it combine:; \I, the drippings 10 add flavor 10 Ihe jus, sauce or gravy that is made with tla
Cooking Temperatures Small roaSIS such ;IS a rack of bmb or a beef tenderloin should be cool: at high temperaNres, 375°F-4;O°F OWC-230De) so that they develop !,'!X color during their shon cooking times. Traditionally, large roasts were sl:tned at high temperawres 10 scar thl' 1M and $Cal in the juices; they were Ihen finished at lower temperJtures. have shown, however, thai roasts cooked :11 const:ml, low tempermures [lIl vide a better yield with less shrinkage than roasts that have been seared. Tell peratures between 275°F and 32soF (t20"C-I60DC) are ideal for large IUNi These temperatures will produce a l:trge, evenly cooked pink center portia!
Determining Doneness
FIGUJU: 12.8 The Proper Pltlcemell/ of011 II/stalll-Head Thermomeler
TIle donencss of slllall roasts such as a rack of lamb is determined in muchtli same way as broiled or grilled meats. Wilh cxperience, the chef dc\'elops a of timing as well as a feel for gauging the lImount of resistance by touching meat. These techniques, howcver. are not infallible, especially with large 1'Oi.': Although timing is useful as a genel1ll guide for determining dOllt1ldll there are tOO m,my variables for it to be relied upon exclusively. With Ibis C2I tion in mind, Table 12.3 lists geneml cooking times for roasted mealS. The beSI way to delermine the doneness of a l:trge roast is to use an inSUii read thermometer. as shown in Figure 12.8. The thermometer is insene
Carryover Cooking and Resting CarrrO\'er cooklng-lhe r:oonllg lhat O«/Irs after a food is remOI1'(//rom (I iJ«lt scum; II is aa:iJ/IIpllsheri by the ffSi(llInl iJ«lt remainillg ill fhe food.
Cooking does not stOp the moment a roast is removed from the OIl'l Through conduction, the heat applied [a the outside of the roost continues penetrate, cooking the center for se\'eral more minutes. Indeed, the inwrm temperature or a small roast can rise by as much as 5°F_10°F (3°C--6OC) being removed from the oven. Wilh a larger roast, such as a 5O-pw. sleamship round, it can rise by as much as 20DF (J 1°C). Therefore. reroc roasted meatS before they reach the desired degree of done ness. and aIk. carryover cooking to complete lhe cooking process. The lemperatures listl'll Table 12.3 are internal temperatures after allowing for c.IrI)'over cooking As meat cooks, its juices flow toward the center. If the roast is can·ed mediatel}' after it is remo\'ed from the oven. ils juices would nm from u.
PRlNClPLES OF MEAT COOKERY ("'2\~
... ,,",.og it 10 lose its color and become dry. Letting the meal rest before allows the juices {O redistribute themselves evenly througholLt the roast roast will retain more juices when carved. Small roasts, like a rack , need {O rest only 5 (0 10 minutes; larger roasts such as a steamship of beef require as much as an hour.
AIx:ompa1limellls to Roasted Meats Ioast5 may be served with a sauce based on their natural juices (called au 101". des"ibed in Recipe [2.2, Roast Prime Rib of Beef Au Jus, or with :1 pan nude with drippings from the roast Additional sauce suggestions are in Table 105.
tmDIJRE FOR ROASJ1NG
MEATS
Trim excess fal, tendons :mel silverskin from the meal. Leave only a thin fal co"ering, if possible, so that the roast basles itself as it cooks. Season the roast as appropriate and place il in a roasting pan. The roast may be placed on a bed of mirepoix or on a rack . Ioast the meat, uncovered, at the desired temperature (the larger the roast, Ihe lower the temperature), usually 275°F-425°F (135°C-220°C). If a jus or pan gravy is desired and a mirepoix was not added at tbe start of cooking, it may be added 30 to 45 minutes before the roast is done, thus allowing it to caramelize while the roast finishes cooking. Cook to the desired temperature. lemore the roast from the oven, allowing carryover cooking 10 raise the nemal temperarure to the desired degree of doneness. Allow the roast to ~ before slicing or carving it. As the roast rests, prepare the ~IS, sauce or pill grn'y
=========== ~ ============= RECIPE 12.2
ROAST PRIME RIB OF BEEF Au Jus ()"en-ready rib roast L\IPS -109, approx. 16 lb. (7.5 kg) Salt and pepper Gotic, chopped lIrepoix
Brown stock
IT IT
I lb. 2 ql.
I IT IT
500g 21<
Pull back the netting, fold back the fat cap and season the roast well with Ihe salt, pepper and chopped garlic. Replace the fat cap and nelling; place !be rooSt in an appropriate-sized roasting pan. Roast al 300°F-325°F Il6O'C-IWC). Add the mirepoLx to the pan approximately 45 minutes before the roast is &rushed cooking. Continue cooking until the internal temperature reaches l2S GF(52°e), approximately 3 to 4 hours. Carryover cooking will raise the ilUemaJ temperature of the roast to approximately 138°F (59"C), Irmove the roast from t~e pan and allow it to rest in a warm place for 30 mmutes, COI/lilltled
275
276
ClIAPf'ER
12 4. Drain the excess fal from the roasting pan, reserving the mirepoix and drippings in the roasting pan. 5. Caramelize the mirepoix on the stove tOp; allow the liquids to evapocll leaving anI)' brown drippings in the pan. 6. Deglaze the pan with brown Stock. Stir to loosen all the drippings. 7. Simmer the jus, reducing it slightly and allowing the mirepoLx 10 release fla\'or; season wilh salt and pepper if necessary. 8. Strain Ihe jus through a china cap lined wjth cheesecloth. Skim an}" maining fal from the surface witb a ladle. 9. Remove Ihe ncuing from me roaSI. Trim and slice the roaSt as descrn. opposite and serve with approximately 1 to 2 ounces (30 to 60 millUik jus per person.
1. Draining off the excess fat
Appro:,.,malC \'3tucs per 'J.oZ. (254-g) ser\"i~: Calories 95 t. Tob.l fat ""9 g, saturated f:u 31 ~ Qt leslcrol 214 mg, Sodium 278 mg, Total carboh)"dntes I g. Protein S6 So lroll 40%
2. Caramelizing the mirepoix.
3. Deglazing the p.1n with brown stock.
4. Simmering the JLLS, reducing it slightly and allowing the mirepoLx to release its fla\'ors.
5. Stfllining the jus throLLgh a china cap and cheesedOOI.
PRINGPlES OF,lfm COOKER}'
277
Carvillg Roasts ,\lIlhe efforts thai went inlO selecting and cooking a perfect roaSt will be l(l~OO if the rOOSI is not carved properly. Roasts are always carved against the Ill: carving it with the grain proouces long stringy, tough slices. CUlling nl:\~ the muscle fibers produces a more allractive and tender ponion. PorKlS lll3y be cut in a single thick slice, as with Roast Prime Rib of Beef, or in .om' thin slices. The following photographs illustrate se\'eral different carving IXI.'tlurcs.
CIiIl'G PRIME RIB
I. RtmI.r.ing the netting, ca p fat and
dune hones.
2. Trimming the excess fat from the eye muscle.
CIiI1SG PRIME RIB ON TilE SUeER
J. \\l1cn prooucing large quantities of prime rib, il is often more practiGI] to Ilic\! it on a slicing machine. Following the steps iIIuslr.olle
' lenetting, cap fat and chine Ixme j trim excess fat from the eye muscle. Then ~ along slicer and completely remove the rib eye from the rib bones, being r.udUlloslay as close as possible 10 the bones to a\'oid wasting any meat.
3. Slicing the rib in long, smooth
strokes, the first cut (end elll) without a rib bone, the second cut with a rib bone, the third without, and so on.
2. Afler placing the rib on the slicing machine, set the machine to the desired thickness. TIle blade will have to be adjusted often because a roast's thickness fluctuates.
278
Clwn'R 12 CARVL\,G A STF.t\MSHIP ROUND OF BEEF
1, After setting the roaSt on the
cUlling board with the exposed femur bone Oarge end of the roast) down and the tibia (shank bone) or "ha ndle" up, trim the excess exterior f;lt to expose thf lean meat.
2, Begin slicing with a horizontal cut
3. Keeping the exposed surfa~ a,1
toward the sh;mk bone, then m:Lke vertical cuts to release the slices of beef.
level as possible. Continue carving, turning tILe rU
CARVING A LEG OF lAMB
1. Holding the shank bone firmly,
CUI toward the boNe.
2. Cuning paral!el to the shank bone 10 remove Ihe slices.
3. Rotating the leg as needed to access the meat on all sides.
Stmteing Sauteing is a dry-heat cooking method in which heat is conducted by a :tmou nt of fat. S:tuteed meats should be tender (a reflection of the quali~'1 the raw product), of good color (determined by proper cooking temperatul\':l and have a good overall O.. \'or. Any accompanying sauce should be weUIt'lsoned and complement the meat without overpowering it.
PRINc/P!};S OF MEAT COOKERY ~
279
Selecting Meats to Stmte wilh broiling, grilling and roasting, you should use tender meats of the quaJiry in order 10 produce good results when sauteing. The Cllts tInIJd be unifonn in size and shape in order to promote even cooking. .0\5
~
StrJsoning Meals to be Sauteed The sauces that almost always accompany sauteed meats provide much of
IIr seasoning. The meat, however, Gin be marinated or simpl}' seasoned with .. and pepper. If marinated, Ihe meat must be paned dry before cooking to awre proper browning. Some meats are dusted with flour before cooking to R2I in juices and promote even browning.
Determining Dollel1eSS As with broiled and grilled meats, the doneness of sauleed meats is deterIIIiled by touch and timing. Red mealS should be well browned ; veal and pork Iln1ld be somewhat lighter. Accompaniments to Sauteed Aleals Sauces sen'ed with sauteed meats are usually made directly in the saute using the fond . TIley often incorporale a previously thickened sauce. suggestions for sauteed meats are found in Table 10.5.
Fond-(JJ ""l!IIcb for slade or base; (2) the COli·
a'lifratet/ jllices, drippillgs alld bils ifjood left ill /'fillS rifter jOQ(is are roasIed or SlllIlled: II is used 10 flamr SIIIICIS made direclfy ill lhe pallS;1I
which lhe foods u-ere cooitd.
flXiDlJRE
FOR SAlIrElNG MFATS
L Hell :1 saute pan and add enough oil or clarified butter to just cover Ihe Ixluom. The pan should be large enough to hold the meal in a single layer. Apan thaI is too large may cause the fat or meat to burn. Cut the meat into cutlets, scallops, emmces, medallions, mignonettes, aoisettes, chops or small even-sized pieces. Season Ihe meal and dredge in nour if desired. Add the meat to the saute pan in a single layer. Do not crowd the pan. , Adjust the temperature so that the meat's exterior browns properly without bJming and the interior cooks. The heat should be high enough to complete the cooking process before the meat begins to stew in its own
Cudcl-a rtlali/'ely Ibid. bollelesr slia of meal.
ScallOp-(llhill, boneless slice of meal. EmincC-r1 small, lbill. bollrlesr piece if meal.
Paillard__1 smile(! if meal polllltwd III/iii lbill, IlSlwlly grilled
Mcdalllon __, Slllall, rolll/{I, relalil:ely lhick
;.ures.
slice of IIII'{/I.
Small items may be tossed using the saute pan's sloped sides to nip them back on top of themselves. Do nOl tOSS the meat more than necessary, howerer. The pan should remain in contact with the heat source as much as possible to maintain proper temperatures. Larger items should be turned using tongs or a kitchen fork. Avoid burns by not splashing hOI fat. Wger items can be finis hed in an oven. Either place the saute pan in the a.-en or transfer the meat to anOlher pan. The latter procedure allows a saure 10 be made in the original pan as the meat continues 10 cook.
Mignoncttc__, lIIet/(llIiQlI.
PmIll'RI FOR PREPARh'iG A SAUCE IN THE SAUTE PAN
fa $Juce is 10 be made in the pan, hold Ihe meal in a warm Spol while preparing the sauce. When the meat is removed from the pan, leave a 5IIl3U amOunt of fal as well as {he fond. If Ihere is excessive fat, degrease the p:!n, leaving just enough to COver its bottom. Add ingredients such as ~riic, shallOts and mushrooms that will be used as garnishes and sauce flarorings; saute them.
Noisctle-a small, uSlially round, portioll of /Ileal clilfrom the rib. Chop-a cuI of metll, i"dIU/illg pari of /be rib.
280
CIIAf'l7:'H 12
2. Deglaze the pan with wine or stock. Scrape the pan, loosening the foo:l and allowing it to dissolve in the liquid. Reduce the deglazing liquid b) approximmely three quarters. J. Add jus lie or stock to the p:tn. Cook and reduce the sauce to the des~ consistency. 4. Add any ingredienLS that do not require cooking such as herbs and spi
RECIPE 12.3
SAlJI'EED VE4L SCALLOPS WITH WHl11I WINE LEAtON SAUCE Yield: 6 servings
Veal scallops, 3 oz, (90 g) e:lCh C!:trifled butter Flour Salt and pepper Sh:tllots, chopped White wine Lemon juice Brown veal stock Unsalted bUller Lemon wedges
1. Adding Ihe veal scallops to the
pan. NOie the relationship of scallops 10 pan size.
12 2 oz. 4 oz.
60 ml
12
IT
IT
2 Thsp.
30 ml
120g
6 oz.
180 ml
2 oz.
60 ml
4 oz.
120ml
2 OZ. 12
60g 12
1. Pound the scallops to a uniform thickness, as described in Chapll'f
2. j.
2. Adding the chopped shallots to the pan :tnd sauteing them.
3. Deglazing the pan with white wine :md lemon juice.
4. 5. 6. 7.
Vcal. Hem a saute pan and add the clarified bUller. Dredge the scallops in seasoned flour and add to the pan in a single b. Saute on each side for 1-2 minutes. As the first scallops are done, rem: them to a warm planer and saute the remaining scallops. Add the chopped shallots to the pan and sallie. Oeglaze the pan with the white wine and lemon juice. Add the brown veal stock and reduce by half. Swirl in the bUller (monte :m beurre).
4. Adding the brown veal stock and reducing by half.
5. Swirling in Ihe bUller and adjusting the seasonings.
PRINQPlESOFMEATCOOKERI'
, Adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper. 1 Serve two scallops per person with approximately 1 ounce (30 milliliters) d sauce. Garnish with lemon wedges. Jfprounute Y,l!ues pel S-Oz. (232.g) serving: Calories 537. Total fat 28 g, Satur.u<:d fat 13 g. Cho....,. 208 mg. Sodium 325 mg. Total carbohydrates 17 g. Protein 47 g, Vitamin A 22%
hn-frying uses more fal than sauteing to conduct heat. Pan-fried meats should be tender (a reflection of the quality of the raw product), of good color (de· InDined b}' proper cooking temperatures) and with a good overall flavor. Meats 10 be pan-fried are usually breaded. [n addition to providing flavor, !reading seals the meat. The breading should be free from breaks, thus pre· ftI'Iing the fat from coming into direct contact with the meal or collecting in I plCket formed between the meat and the breading. Pan-fried items should be golden in color. and the breading should not be soggy.
StlectingMeats 10 Pan-Fry As with other dry·heat cooking methods, tender meats of high quality iould be used because the meat will not be tenderized by the cooking JIIIXtSS. MealS that are pan-fried are ofte n cut into cutlets or SC"Jllops. Stasoning Meats 1o be Pan-Fried Pan-fried mealS are usually seasoned lightly with salt and pepper either by lAJl)ing them directlr to the meat or by adding them to the flour and bread cnurb; used in the breading procedure. Determining Dollelless The most accurate way to determine the doneness of a pan-fried item is by _g. The touch method is difficult 10 uSe because of the large amounts of III f31. It also may nOl. be as accurate as with broiled or grilled meats because prHried meats are oflen quite thin. krompanimellts 10 Pan-Fried Meats Any sauce served with pan-fried meats is usually made separately because fIeIt i:; no fond created during the pan-frying process. Sauce suggestions are lied in Table to.5.
Slice and pound the meat into scallops, as described in Chapter 14. Veal.
Bread the meat using the standard breading procedure detailed in Chapter 21, Dl-ep-Frying. Ht'at a moder.tte amount of fat or oil in a heavy pan. The temperature should be slightly lower than that used to S
~,
281
282
CHAPTER 12
..."... = = = = = = 1 RECIPE 12.4
BREADED VEAL ClffLETS Yield: 10 servings Veal cutlet, 4 oz. (120 g) each Salt and pepper Standard breading: Flour
10 IT 3S
10 IT
needed
as needed
Eggs t.lilk Bread cnJmbs Vegetable oil BUllcr Lemon wedges
as needed
6 oz. 20
needed ISO g 20
3S
1. Using a mallet, pound the cutlets to an even thickness, approximately I
inch (6 millimeICrs). 1. Season Ihe cUllets with salt and pepper. 3. Bread the cutlets using the standard breading procedure described in Our ter 21, Deep-Frying. 4. Heat a heavy p:m to moderate heat; add approximately 1/4 inch (6 mI limeters) of oil. 5. Add the cutlets in a single la~ler. Do not crowd the pan. Brown on on~ lirk then the other. Tota l cooking time should be approximately 4 minutes, 6. Remove the cutlets and drain on absorbent paper. 7. l\ lelt the bUller in a sma ll pan until it foams. 8. Place one cullel on each plate and pour approximately 1/2 ounce 05 mI Iiliters) butter over each I>onion. Garnish with lemon wedges. 1.
Adding the bre'dded cutlets to the hot pan. Note the amount of oil in the pan.
1. Turning the cutlets
Ihe second side.
~o
brown on
Approxun:uc 1C!ilcrol 193
1":l1lK'S per ;..oz. (t52-g) ~I\mg, Calories 501, Tota t fal 37 i'. SalUt:att,.'Ci fal l~ g. ~ mg, Sodium .BI! nl}l. TOla l carboh)"drales 5 g, PTolcin j(i g. Vl lamin A r" ,
3. 1\lelting the bUller in :1 separate
4. Pouring Ihe bUller over the cutltt
pan until it fo:mls.
Moist-Heat Cooking Methods Moist-heat cooking methods subject food to heat and moisture. Moist heal' often, but not always, used to tenderize tougher cuts of me:!t through ~ slow cooking. Simmering is the only moist-heat cooking method diSClbSt'l1 here as it is the only one frequently used with me:!t.
PRINapLES OF M~T COOKERY ~
Simnering is usually associated with specific tougher cuLS of meat that need to be tenderized through long, slow, moist cooking. Quality simmered meaLS lint good flavor and texture. TIle flavor is determined by the cooking liquid; .. texture is a result of proper cooking temperatures and time.
StleclingMeals 10 Simmer MealS such as fresh or corned beef brisket, fresh or cured hams and tongue aooen simmered. Beef briskets and tongues, pork butts and hams are often anmered whole. Se8soning Meals 10 be Simmered If the meat to be simmered was cured by either smoking (as with cured m.s, ham hocks and smoked pork bun) or pickling (as with corned beef and pickled tongue), the cooking liquid will nOI be used to make a sauce and Ilnlld not be seasoned. Indeed, simmering cured meats helps leach out some tithe excess salt, m:lking the finished dish more p:llatable. Cookillg TemperatuTes MoisJ·heal cooking methods generally use lower temperat1lfes than dry-heat . methods. Meats are normally simmered at temperatures between IIl"f and 200"F (82°C-S;OC). In larger food service operations, meaLS such as bib and corned beef are cooked al temperatures as low as 150°F (66°C) for 12 hours. Although lower cooking temperatures result in less shrinkage aI a more tender finished product, cooking times can be incre:lsed to the poilt t1ut very low cooking temperatures may not be practical.
"ro
Dttermillillg Dollelless Simmered meaLS are :llways cooked well done, which is determined by tendemt'ss. The size and quality of the raw proouct determines the cooking rime. Ibiettooked meats will be tough :lnd chewy. Overcooked meaLS will be IIJ'Ig}' and may even fall apart. To It'S! large CULS of meat for doneness, a kitchen fork should be easily in~ into the meat and the meat should slide off the fork. Smaller pieces of ..""h
IaxI:OCIRE FOR SIMMER1NG MEATS
Cut, trim or tie the meat according to the recipe. 1 Bring an adequate amount of liquid to a boil. There should be enough lijuid to cover the meat completely. Too much liquid will leach off much lithe meat's flavor; too little will le:lve a portion of the meat exposed, preI·enting it frelm cooking. Because the dish's final flavor is determined by the flavor of the liquid, use plenty of mirepoix, flavorings and seasonings. J i'hen simmering smoked or cured items, start them in cold water. TIlis helps draw off some of the strong smoked or pickled flavors. Add the meat to the liquid. Reduce the heal to the desired temperature and cook until the meat is tt'llder. Do not allow the cooking liquid to boil. Boiling results in a tough
283
284
ClW'TEJIl2 or overcooked and stringy product. If the simmered meat is to be ser...ed cold, a moister and juicier product can be achieved by removing the p:'( from the stove before the meat is fully cooked. The meat and the liquid can be cooled in a water bath like that for a stock, as described in Charu 10, Stocks and Sauces. This allows the residual heat in the cooking liquil to finish cooking the meat.
RECIPE 12.5
NEW ENGlAND BOILED DINNER Yield: 12 (}..oz 080-g) servings
I . Placing the corned beef and
sachet in an appropriate pot and covering with -"lOCk.
Corned beef brisket, 8 lb. (6.5 kg) White stock Sachet: Bay leaves Dried thyme Peppercorns, cracked Parsley stems Mustard seeds Cinnamon sticks Allspice berries Baby red beets Baby rurnips Baby carrOtS Brussels sproUlS Pearl onions Potatoes, Red Bliss
as needed
as needed
2
2 2ml 2ml 10 15 ml
1/2 15p. 1/215p. 10 I Thsp. 2 4
24 24 24 24 24 24
2 4 24 24 24 24 24 24
I . Place the bed in a pot and add enough stock to cover it. Add the sam.
2. Preseming the carved beef with the \'egetable garnish.
bring 10 a boil :lIld reduce to a simmer. 2. Simmer until the beef is tender, approximately 3 hours. RemO\·e the ~ and hold in a hotel pan in a smalllLmount of the cooking liquid. 3. Peel or prepare the vegetables and potatoes as needed and cook SCpaL":ll in a portion of the cooking liquid. 4. Carve the beef and serve with two of each of the ,·egetab!es and ~ radish sauce (page 200). Approxima!t' \";Ilues Jlf1" .'jt.""f\ing: Calories t067, TOial raj )8 g. Salu raLcd raj 19 g. Cho~.
mg. SOdium 3844 mg, Total carbo hydr.llcs 73 g. Protein 64 g, Vitamill A 27'%. Vitamin C. troll 66%
Combination Cooking Me/bods Braising and stewing are referred to as combination cooking methods beat. both dry he'lt and moist heat are used to achieve the desired results.
Braising Braised mealS are first browned and then cooked in a liquid that sef\'e5:1.> sauce for the meat. A well-prepared braised dish has the rich fla\'or d meat in the sallce and the moisture and flavor of the &1UCe in the meat.
PRINCIPLES OF NEAT COOKERY .""2l. 285
slnJkI be almost fork tender but not falling apart, TIle meal should have an 11ra!li\'e color from the initial browning and final glazing.
.r
SelectingMeats 10 Braise Braising can be used for tender cuts (such as those from the loin or rib) or CU[S (such as those from the chuck or shank). Any mea! to be braised
IiIoold be well marbled with an ample fat content in order to produce a Illoist iDished product. ff lender cuts such as veal chops or pork chops are braised, the finished
ish. has a uniquely different flavor and texture than if the meats were cooked br a dry-heat method. Tender cutS require shorter cooking times than tougher ruts because lengthy cooking is not neeclf'cI to hrf>::Ik clown connedive tissue, More often, brnising is used with tougher cuts that are tenderized by the big, moist cooking process. Cuts from [he chuck and shank are popular dloices, as [hey are very flavorful and contain relatively large amounts of colbgen, which adds richness to the finished product. Large pieces of meat can be brnised, then carved like a roast. Portion can· !roI cuts and diced meats can also be braised.
Seasoning Meals to be Braised The seasoning and overall flavor of a brJised dish is largel~' a funct ion of the of the cooking liquid and the mirepoix, herbs, spices and other ingredi· ems thaI season the meat as it cooks. However, braised mealS can be marinated before !hey are cooked to tenderize them and add fl avor. The marinade is then nnetimes incorporated into the brnising liquid. Salt and pepper may be added lime flour if the meat is dredged before it is browned, or the meat may be seam directly (although the salt may draw out moisture and inhibit browning). A standard sachet and a tomatO product are usually added at the start of ading. 'The tomato product adds fl avor and color to the finished sauce as ,til as acid to tenderize the meat during the cooking process. Final seasoning inlld not take place until cooking is complete and the sauce will not be reo wfunher. ~ity
Cooking Temperatures Braised mealS are alw:lys browned before simmering. As a genernl nile, .!ImUer CU[S are floured before brown ing; larger Cuts are not. Flouring seals the oral, promotes even browning and adds body to the sauce that accompanies !be meat. Whe[her floured or nOt, the meat is browned in fat. After browning, ,'fme. meats should be golden to amber in C010f; red meats should be dark !rown. Do not brown the meat tOO quickly al too high a temperature since it iI imponam to develop a well-caramelized surface. The caramelized surface tdds rolor and flavor [0 the fina l product. The meat and the bra ising liquid are brought to a boil over direct heat. nle tmperature is then reduced below boiling, and the pot is covered, Cooking can btfinished in [he oven or on the stove tOp. The oven provides gende, even heat wmoul the risk of scorching. If the braise is finished on the stove top, proper tmper.trures must be maintained carefully throughout the cooking process, and pelt care must be taken to prevent scorching or burning. Lower temperatures am longer cooking times result in more even cooking and thorough penetra· 1m of the cooking liquid, providing a more flavorful final product.
hnisbillg Braised MellIs Sear the end of the cooking process, the lid may be removed from oven· meats. Finishing brnised me:lls without a cover serves two purposes. FrsI, the meat can be glazed by basting it often. (As the basting liquid e\'apolies, the meat is browned and a strongly flavored glaze is formed.) Second, Ini;ed
286
CIW'l'ER 12
removing the lid allows the cooking liquid to reduce, thickening it and coocentrating its flavors for use as a sauce.
Determining Doneness Braised meats are done when they are tender. A fork insened into the IlIf'J should meet little resistance. Properly braised meats should remain intact:mj not fall apart when handled gently. Braised meals lhal fall apan or are strin.!:.')' are overcooked. If the finished product is lough, it was probably undercooked or cooked at too high a temperature. If the entire dish lacks fla vor, the meat may not have been properk" browned or the cooking liquid may have been poorly seasoned. Accompaniments to Braised Meats Large bra ised items are often served like roasts. TIley are carved agains!!Ix: grain in thin slices and served with their sauce. Vegetables can be cooked \liIb the braised meat, cooked sepa rately and added when the main item has fillished cooking or added at service. If Ihe vegetables are cooked wilh the main item, they should be added at intervals based on their individual cooking tittlS to prevent overcooking. PROCEDURE FOR BRAISING M£(fS
The liquid used for braising is usually thickened in one of three ways: 1. With a raux added at the stan of the cooking process; the raux thickens
the sauce as the meat cooks. 2. Prethickened before the meal is added.
3. Thickened after the meat is cooked either by pureeing the mirepoi."( or bj' using roux, arrowroot or cornstarch. The procedure for braising meats includes variations for whichever thid· ening method is selected. 1. Heat a small amount of oil in a heall)' pan. Dredge the llleat to be braised in seasoned flour, if desired, and add illl)
2.
the oil. 3. Brown the meat well on all sides and remove from the pan. 4. Add a mirepoix to the pan and caramelize it well. If using roux, it should be added at this lime. 5. Add the appropriate stock or 5.1UCe so that when the meat is returned to the pan the liquid comes approximately one third of the way up the s~ of the meat. 6. Add aromatics and seasonings. 7. Return the meat to the sauce. Tightly cover the pot and bring it to a simmer. Cook slowly either on the stove top or b)' placing the covered pot directly in an oven at 2SOOF-300°F (I20°C-150°C). 8. Cook the item, basting or turning it often so that all sides of the meat benefit from the moisture and flavor of the sauce. 9. When the meat is done, remove it from the pan ltnd hold it in a wann place while the sallce is finished. 10. The sauce may be reduced on the stove top to intensify its flavors. If the meat was braised in II stock, the stock may be thickened using a fOUX. arrowroot or cornstarch. Strain the sauce or, if desired, puree the mirepoix :tnd other ingredients and return them to the sauce. Adjllstthe sauce's consistency as desired.
PRINGPLBS OF MEAT COOKER)'
287
.... ======== RECIPE 12.6
A UNT Rl!THIE'S POT ROAST Yirld: 12 6-oz. (IBO-g) meat and 4-oz. (120-g) s.1uce servings \i.'gt'tlble oil Bttf brisket Onion. thinly sliced Garlic, minced Brown veal ~tock Tomato sauce Drown sugar P~prika
Dry muswrd lemon juice Kl'Ichup Rt'tl wine vinegar 1f00000lcrshire sauce 'xiI! and pepper
3 oz. 6 lb.
90g 2.7 kg 1.4 kg
31b. 2 Thsp. 1 qt. 1 pI. 4 oz. 1 tsp. 2 tsp. 8 oz. 8 oz. 8 oz. 2 oz.
450 ml 120 g 5 m! 10 ml 250 m! 250 g 250 rnl 6Om]
IT
IT
30ml 1h
I. Ht"Jt the oil in a large skillet. Add the beef and brown thoroughly. Remove md reserve lhe brisket. 1. .-\dd me onions and garlic to the pan and saute. J A.dd the stock and tomatO sauce to the pan.
I . Browning the brisket.
2. Sauteing the onions and garlic.
I. Rerum the brisket to the pan, cover tightly and bring to a boil. Braise at
.U:;oF OWC) for I 112 hours, basting or turning the brisket often. $. Combine the remaining ingredients and add to the pan.
( Continue cooking and basting the brisket until tender, approximately hour ", Remove the brisket, degrease the sauce and adjust its consistency and seasonings. Do nOi strain the sauce. & Slice the brisket against the grain and serve with lhe sauce. ,ftlUrJIllC \'llucs [X."1 serving, Calo rlCl!l 803, Total fat 52 g, Saturntt:d fat t6 g, Choleste ro l n·! mg, \r1d11u11 32'lO mg, Total carboh rdrJ IC$ 40 g, Protei n 46 g, Vibm ln A 25%, Vitamin C 10Cl%
3. Basting tlte brisket. Note the proper amount of cooking liquid. Sltfrillg 't'I\ing, like braising. is a combination cooking method. In many ways, the ).\'dures for stewing are identical to those for bf""Jising although slewin~ is ..Jl)' associated with smaller or bite-sized pieces of meat. lhcre are twO main types of stews: brown stews and white stews. ilIen making brown Slews, the meat is first browned in fat; then a cookliquid is added. TIle initial browning adds flavor and color to the finished :wet. The same characteristics apply to a good brown stew that apply to a :xxi hraised dish: [t should IX! fork tender and have an auractive color and a fiavor. Tht1C are IWO type~ of white Slews : fr icassees, in which the meat is firsl XJkl1l in a small amoutll of fat without coloring, then combined with a cookliquid: and blanqucnes, in which the meat is first blanched, then rinS<.-'d ,00 3ddi.'d to a cooking liquid. A white stew should have the same flavor and arure ch.1r:tctcristics as
288
~.
ClWTER 12
~ == STEW TERMINOLOGY Rngolll-A general term that refers to white or brown stews in which the meat is cooked 1»' dry heat before a liquid is added. In French, ragout means "\0 bring back the appetite .., Frictlssee-A white ragout usually made from white meat or small game, seared without browning and garnished with small onions and mushrooms. Nfi/"{/ni/-A brown ragout generally made with turnips, other root vegetables. onions, peas and lamb. Bf(lllfjllelle-A white stew in which the meat is first blanched, then added to a stock or sauce \0 complete Ole cooking and tenderizing process. BlanquelleS are finished \lith a liaison of egg yolks and hea\)' cream. Chili cxm ((Irlle-A ragout of ground or diced meal cooked with onions, chile peppers, cumin and other spices. Despite Ole 0bjections of purists, chili sometimes contains
t.=. Golllasb-A
Hungarian beef slew made
v.ith onions and paprika and garnished V.;01 polatoes.
Selecti11g Meats to Stew Stewing uses moist heat to tenderize meat juSt as bra ising does; Iherebt many of the s,1me cuts can be used. Meats that are to be stewed should b: trimmed of excess fal and connective tissue and cut into 1- to 2-inch (2.).i ,-em) cubes. Seaso11ing Meals to be Stewed Stews, like braised meats, get much of their flavor from meir cooking lit uid. A stew's seasoning and overall flavor is a direct result of the quality of~ cooking liquid and the vegetables, herbs, spices and other ingredients adckd during cooking. Cooking Temperatures Meats for brawn stews are first cooked at high temperalures over direa heat until well browned. Mc:lts for friC:lssees are first sauleed at low tempeDlures so that they do nOI develop color. Once the cooking liquid has been added and the moist-heat coo~ process has begun, do nOI allow the stew to boil. Stews benefit from 1()9l·· temperature cooking. If practical, stews Can be covered and finished in dr oven. Determini11g Do11el1ess Slewed meats are done when they are fork tender. Test them by re!l\Ol-q a piece of meat 10 a plate and cutting it with a fork. Any vegetables that 2Ir cooked wilh the meat should be added at the proper times so that they :m! the meal are completely cooked al the same time. Accompaniments to Slewed Meats Slews are often complete meals in themselves, containing meat, vegetal*i and potatoes in one dish. Stews that do not contain a starch are often served with pasta or rice.
PROCEDURE FOR STEWING MFATS-BROWN Snws
Red meats, lamb and game life used in brown Slews. The procedure for mak· ing a brown stew is very similar 10 braising. 1. Trim the meat of excess fat and silverskin and cui inlo 1- to 2-inch (25-10 ,-em) pieces. 2. Dredge the meat in flour if desired. I-Ieat an appropriate-sized pan and add enough oil to cover the bOil om. Cook the meat in the oil, browning it well on all sides. Onions and b",rlic can be added at this time and browned. 3. Add flour to the meat and fat and cook to make :1 brown roux. 4. Gradually add the liquid 10 the roux, stirring 10 prevent lumps. Bring !he stew to a boil and reduce to a simmer. 5. Add a tomato product and a sachet or a bouquet garni. Cover and p13cem the oven or continue to simmer on the stove lOp until the meat is tender. Add orner ingredients such as vegetables or potatoes al the proper time so that they will be done when the meat is tender. • 6. When the meat is tender, remove the sachet or bouquet garni. The meat may be strained out and the sauce thickened with raux, cornstarch or arrowroot or reduced to concentrdte its flavors. 7. If not added during the cooking process, vegetables and other garnishes may be cooked scparmely and ,ldded 10 the finished stew.
PRI/I'CJP~ OF MEAT COOKERY
= = = == = '-
BROWN B EEF S11iW 'idd: 88-0z. (250-g) servings 0;]
2 oz.
60 m!
41b. 8 oz.
2 kg
2 tsp. 1/21Sp.
10 ml 2 rnl 300 g
!letf chuck or shank, trimmed and cut into 1 II2-in. (3.5-<:01) cubes
'"Pepper
JO oz. I tsp.
Onion. sm:11I dice
GJrlK:. chopped
50ll
Brown stock
I 1/2 oz. SOl:. 1 q1.
TonuiO purCe
4 oz.
4; g 250 ml lit 120 g
2 1/2 [Sp. 1/2 tsp. 10
2 2 m! 2 ml 10
~oor R~-d \\jne
1. Browning the beef.
\1(11(.1:
Bay leaves Dried thyme
Peppercorns, cnlshed Parsley stems
I. Heal a heavy pol until very ho\ and add the oil. 1 ~:Json the beef and add il 10 the pot, browning it well on all sides. Do nOI IJ\en:TOwd the pot. If necessary, cook the beef in several batches. ! ,\dd [he onions and garlic and saute lImil the onions are slightly browned. i Md the flour and stir 10 make a roux. I3rown the raux lightly. !\dd the red wine and brown stock slowly, stirring \0 prevent lumps. , ,\dd the tomato puree and the sachet. • Bring [0 a simmer and cook until the beef is tender, approximately 1 1/ 2 101 hours. & OpIional: Remove the cooked beef from the sauce and strain the sauce. Return the beef to the 5.1.UCC. ~ Oc:gl"l'a5e the stew by skimming off the fat. \lII.mo~:
Vegetables such as turnips, carrots, celery and pearl onions can be 'rkttl separately and added to the stew as garnish.
2. Sauteing the garlic and onions
until slightly browned.
3. Adding the flour and making a raux.
u.= \'31ucs per Ik>z. (2;o.gl ser.'ing: Calori~ 590. Total fat 32 g, Satura ted fat 11 g, ella1)('\ mg. Sodium ~1O mg, Toul carbo hr dr:u('S 1; g. Prou:ln )8 g, Vitamin A oj;%. Iron 4<::1%
~
•
, \tk!illg the red wine and beef ~(I(k.
5. Adding the tomato purt."e and sachet.
6. Degreasing the Slew.
289
290
~
CHAPTER 12
PROCEDURE FOR STEWING MEATS--BRAISED WIIlTE STEWS
(FRlCASSm)
The procedure for making fricassees is similar to the procedure for stews. The primary difference is that the meat is sauteed but nO{ II brown. The braised while stew (fricassee) procedure omlined here is for Recipe 14. 12, Veal Fricassee. I . Trim the meal of excess fat and silverskin and cut into 1- to """oc" ",..
5-em) pieces. 2. Heal an appropriate-sized pan and add enough oil [0 cover the boncm
Add the meat (and often an onion) to the pan and cook without
browning. 3. Sprinkl e the meat (and onion) with flour and cook to make a blond
raux. 4. Gradually add the liquid, stirring to prevent lumps. Bring Ihe stew to a and reduce to a simmer.
5. Add a bouquet gami and seasonings. Cover the slew and place in the or continue to simmer on the SlOve tOp, being careful nOi to bum or the stew. 6. Continue to cook until the meat is tender. If the sauce is 100 thin, relTlOl"t the meat from the sa lice and hold the meat in a warm place. Reduce the sauce to the proper consistency on the slOve top or thicken it by adding I small amount of blond raux, cornstarch or arrowroot.
PROCEDURE FOR STh"W\NG MEATS--S1MMERED WllITE STEWS ( BL' NQI IETIF.,) Unlike fricassees, blanquettes contain meal that was blanched, not (Because the meat is cooked only by moiSI heat and never by dry heal blanquettc cooking process is nOt a Ime combination cooking method; theless, because of itS striking similarities 10 stewing, it is included here.) TlII: most common blanquene is made wilh veal and is known as bllao'quene veau , but an)' white meat or lamb can be prepared in this manner TielY of garnishes. 111e simmered white stew (blanquette) procedure here is the basis for Recipe 15.15, Blanquette of Lamb.
dr.
1. Trim the meat of excess fat and silverskin and cut into \- to 2-inch (25· ro 5-em) pieces. 2. Blanch the cubed meat by placing the meat in an appropriate pot, ("Q\'erq with cool water, adding salt, and bringing it rapidly \0 a boil. Drain the water. Rinse the meal to remo\'e any impurities. 3. Return the meal to the pot and add enough stock to cover. Add a bouquet garni, salt and pepper. Simmer umil the meat is tender, approximately \ w 1 1/2 hours. 4. Strain the meat from the stock. Discard the bouquet garni. Bring the Stock to a boil, thicken it with a blond roux and simmer for 15 minutes. 5. neturn the meat to the thickened stock. Add a liaison of cream and egg yolks to enrich and thicken the stew. Heat the stew to a simmer. Do ncx boil or the egg yolks will curdle. 6. If any vegetables are to be added, they should be cooked separately and added to the thickened stock with the meal. 7. Adjust the seasonings with a few drops of lemon juice, nutmeg or saIl and pepper as needed.
PRJNc/P~ OF ,IIEAT COOKERY
£!oNCLUSiON
..r:--
Becluse meat may account for the largest portion of your food-cost dollar, it dMxJld be purchased carefully, stored properly and fabricated llppropriately. The "arious CUtS and flavors of meat (beef, veal, lamb and pork) can be sucassfuUy broiled, grilled, roasted, sauteed, pan-fried, simmered, braised or ie'l'ed, p['O\~ded you follow a few simple procedures and learn which cues re~ best to the various cooking methods.
!!2UESTlONS FOR DiSCUSSiON I Explain the difference between primals, subprimals and fabri cated cues of me~!. Why is it important to be skilled in meat fabrication? 1 nat is conneCtive tissue composed of. and where is it fO\.lnd? \'\'hat happeru 10 connective tissues at normal cooking temperatures? } Discuss the government's role in regulating the marketing and sale of meat. 4 At what temperature should fresh meat be Slored' At what temperature Mlould frozen meat be stored? S. '«'auld it be better to grill or braise a piece of meat that contains a great deal of connective tissue? Explain your answer. 6. l.isI three ways to improve the cooking qualities of lean meats. What techniques can be used to compensate for the lack of fat? ~ Decribe the Similarities between sauteing me:l1s and pan-frying them. Describe Ihe differences. Describe Ihe similarities between braising meaes and stewing them. Describe the differences.
291
1
HAPTER
EEF ,
.
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•
•
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• • •
t. ". •
o
•
,
, ,'I'
I •
,
•
.,
•
,
,
• •
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• Rlllh's Chris Slellllbollse .
plx)(ml.v, AZ
=== ~ == After studying this chapter, you will be able 10:
("\!\,
("\!\"
idenlif}' the primal, subprima[ and fabrica ted cuLS of beef perform basic butchering procedures
~
apply appropriate cooking methods 10 several common ClLlS of beef
eef is tbe meat of domesticated caltle. Most beef Americans eat comes fro m steers, wh ich are male cattle castrated as calves alld specifically raised jor beef Allhough Americalls arr consllming less beej today than we ollce did, we sUI! COl/Slime far more beej thall any olher meal. The beej we are eating is lealler than that oj years past thallks to advances ill animal hllsbandryand closer trimming of eXler/orjat.
PRIMAL AND SUBPRIMAL ~
NOT Au GtTru ARE CW£l) "DAISY"
((,/fle is the collective name for all do-
mesticated oxen (genus 8fJs). C:tule are classified as:
•
Bulls-male cattle, usually not raised to be eaten. Cilk'tS-yollng CO'o\'S or bulls prized for their meat. Cou'S-female cattle after their first calving, r:llSed in this ooumry principally for milk and calf prOOuction. In France, CO\\'S are used for beef when they are no longer needed for milk. Heifers-young cows or cows before their first calVing. Heifer meat and organs are be· coming increasingly JXlPular as a food source. S'klgs-male caltle castrated after maturity, principally used for dog food.
S/eers-maJe c:true castrated prior 10 malurity and principally raised for beef.
Cws
OF BEEF
After the steer is slaughtered, it is cut into fOllT pieces (called quarters) for ~ handling. This is done by first splil1ing the carcass down the backbone iI1C two bilateral hah·es. Each half is divided into the fo requarter (the from poI1ioo. and hindquarter (the rellr portion) by cul1ing along the natural currature 1Je, tween the 12th and 13th ribs. TIle quartered carcass is then further redUCfIJ into the primal cuts and the subprimal and fabricated cuts. TIle primal cuts of beef 3re the chuck, brisket and sh3nk, rib, short platt. short loin, sirloin. flank and round. Figure 13. 1 shows the rei:ltionship betwetll a steer's bone stmcture and the primal cuts. 11 is importal11 to knmv the l()("lo tion of bones when cUl1ing or working with meats. This makes meat fabrication and carving easier and aids in identifying cuts. Figure 13.2 shows the pomal ClllS of beef and their location on the carcass. An entire beef carcass can range in weight from SOO to more than 800 pounds (22),-360 kg).
Forequarter Clmck The primal chuck is the animal's shoulder; it accounts for approximately Wof carcass weight. It contains a portion of the backlx>ne, five rib bones and portions of the blade and arm bones. Because an animal constantly uses its shoulder muscles, chuck contain:; a high percentage of connective tissue and is quite tough . TIlis tough cut d beef, however, is one of the most fla\'orful. TIle primal chuck is used less frequently than other primal CUtS in food ser· vice operations. If cooked whole, the chuck is difficult to cut or (alye bea.~ of the large number of bones and relatively small nRlscJe groups that tfa\·el ill different directions. The primal chuck produces several fabricated ClIIS: cross rib pot roast chuck short ribs, cubed or tenderized steaks. stew me:H and ground chuck. Because the meat is tough, the fabricated ClllS usually benefit from moist-heat cooking or combination cooking methods such as stewing and braising.
Brisket and Slxl11k The brisket and shank are located beneath the primal chuck on the front hal of the carcass. Together, they form a single primal that accounts for approximately 8% of carcass weight. This primal consists of the steer's breast (the
BEEF .....,
lIlu 13.1 The Skele/al Slruclll1'e of(/ Steer
••
"'ok
Shon Loin
Sirloin
J
Brish1 and Shank
lll1l: \3.2 The Primal Gills of Beef
1
295
296 '"""
CHAPTER 13
brisket), which contains ribs and breast bone, and its ann (the foreshankl which contains only the shank bone. TIle ribs and breast bone are always removed from the brisket before cook· ing. The boneless brisket is very tough and contains a substantial percenu, of fat, both intennuscu[ar and subcutaneous. It is well suited for moist·ht-3I and combination cooking methods such as simmering or braiSing. It is often pickled or corned to produce corned beef brisket, or cured and peppered {Q make pastrami. Beef foreshanks are very flavorful and high in collagen . Because collagen converts to gelatin when cooked using moist heat, foreshanks are exC{'lloo. for making soups and stocks. Ground shank meat is oflen used to help clarify and flavor consommes because of its rich flavor and high collagen content.
Rib The primal beef rib accounts for approximately 10% of carcass weight. It corr sislS of ribs 6 through 12 as well as a portion of the backbone. This primal is best known for yielding roast prime rib of beef. Prime rib tI not named after the quality grade USDA Prime. Radler, its name reflects the fact that it constitutes the matority of the primal cut. The eye meal of the rib (the cen-
Icr muscle portion) is not a well-exercised muscle and therefore is quite tcnder. [t also contains la~e amounts of marbling compared to the rest of the carcass
and produces rich, fullflavored roaStS and steaks.
Although roasting the eye muscle on the rib bones pro- Oven.Ready Rib Roast duces a moister roasl, the
eye meat can be removed to produce a boneless rib eye ro:bIll' cui into rib eye steaks. The rib bones that are separated from !be rib eye meat are quite meaty and flavorful and can be ser\'lxl~ barbecued beef ribs. The ends of the rib bones that are trimmed off the primal rib to produce the rib roast are known as beef short ribs. They are meaty and are often served as braised beef short ribs. BeejIUbE)'t!RoJl
Sbort Plate TIle shall plate is located directly below the primal rib on a side of beef; it accounts for approximately 9% of the overall weight of the carcass. The shOll plate contains rib bones and cartilage and produces the shall ribs and skirt steak. Shall ribs are meaty, yet high in Skirt Steak connective tissue, and are best when braised. Sk irt steak is often marinated and grilled as fajita> Other, less meaty portions of the short plate are trimmed and ground.
BEEF '""" 297
Hindlfuarter I:wt Loin k mort loin is the anterior (front) portion of the beef loin. It is Porterhouse Steak kated just behind the rib and becomes the first primal cut of the hmjuarter when the side of beef is divided into a forequarter and ~uafler. II accounts for approximately 8% of carcass weight. The short loin contains a single rib, the 13th, and a portion of the bdlxme. With careful butchering, this small primal can yield several dJprimaJ and fabricated ems, all of which are among the most Icnder, p;p.!lar and expensive cuts of beef. The loin eye muscle, a continuation of the rib eye muscle, runs along the t:lp of the T-shaped bones that form the backbone. Beneath the loin eye 1IijC!e on the other side of the backbone is the tenderloin, the most tender CUI of all. \t1ten the short loin is cut in cross sections with the bone in, it produceslalting with the rib end of the shon loin---club steaks (which do not contain Strip loill ~'lenderloin), T-bone steaks (which contain only a small portion of tenderm) and porterhouse steaks (which are cut from the sirD! ("!1d of the shon loin and contain a large ponion d !(!l(\erloin). The whole tenderloin can also be removed and cut .chiteaubriand, filet mignon and tournedos. A ponion dille tenderlOin is loc'Jted in the sirloin portion of the loin. 1b!n the entire beef loin is divided into the primal short loin III primal sirloin, the large end of the tenderloin (the bUll tencIeOOin) 15 separated from the remainder of the tenderloin and remills in the sirlOin; the smaller end of the tenderloin (the short tendermJ remains in the short loin. If the tenderloin is to be kept whole, it must br removed before the shon loin and sirloin are separated. The loin eye meat Tellderloln an be removed (rom the bones, producing a boneless strip loin, which is very rnder and can be roasted or cut into boneless strip steaks.
The sirloin is located in the hindquarter, between the short loin and tbe round. 1 accounts for approxim:nely 7% of carcass weight and contair.s part of the backbone as well as a portion of the hip bone. The sinoin produces bone-in or boneless roasts and steaks that are flavorit and lender. With the exception of the tenderloin portion, however, these dlprimals and fabricated cutS are not as tender as those from the strip loin. CIIs from the sirloin are cooked using dry-heat methods such as broiling, piling or roasting.
Top Sirloin Bull
1be flank is loc'Jted directly beneath the loin, posterior to (behind) the short
rR It acrounts for approximately 6% of cdrcass weight. The flank conno bones . .~gh quite flavorful , it is tough meat with a good deal of fx and connective tissue. Flank meat is usually trimmed and pound, with the exception of the flank steak or London broil. 11M! flank also contains a small piece of meat known as the taanging tenderloin. Although not actually part of the tenderloin, I is Il'l}' tender and can be cooked using any method.
III'IS
Flal/k Steak
298
FIGURE 13.3
.
CHAPTER IJ
BeefRound Rump lIud Shank Parlially Nemot'Cd (Stelllllsbip Rom/d)
Cross CIII o/Mllscles in fl Whole Round
ROllnd The prin1:l1 round is very large, weighing as mllch as 200 pounds (90 kg) l['( accounting for approximately 24% of carcass weight. It is the hind leg oftlr
Top (or If/sit/e) ROI/Ilt!
animal and coma ins (he round, aite-h, shank and tail bones. roo'leat from the round is flavorful and fairly tender. TIle round }ielcb, wide variety of subprimal and fabricated CUts: the tOp round, outside I'OOlKi eye round (the oUlSide round and the eye round together are called the 00 101ll round), knuckle and shank. Sec Figure 13.3. Steaks CUt frulll the fOk lIre lOugh, but because they h,l\'e large muscles
~
==========
BEEF: FRO." COWJlSClS TO CAlTLE DRIVES
Although cattle have been domesticated (or thOlls:md rears. they hare been in the New World only since 1493, when Columbus brought them along on his second expedition to the West IndieS. During the succeeding decades. the Spanish brought cattle to Florida and Texas. where tlle)' thril"ed in the dry. hot climates. nle New World's desire for beef steadily grew from the 1500s to the early 1BOOs. By tlle mid-1800s, America's demand for beef outpaced the supply amitable from local family fanns, and SO cattle ranching was born. Based sen~ral
principall)' in the Southwest and \'i 'es!., ranchers used the open range to support large cattle herds. Texas longhorns, descended from the original SpaIlish caule Stock. were lhe anhnal or choice. Prized for the quality or their meal, longhorns are hardy anhm~s thaI IiI"!! off the range and demand little care. TIley grow rapidly on fomge such as mesquile beans. prickly pear, 1I-eed5, shrubs and buffalo grass. Ranchers broughl the cattle from the range 10 slaughterhouses near consumer marKelS or to places like K:UlSas City \\;Ih rail links to the populous East Coast.
The open range, so vilal to the 19th-cmlUI)' cattie industry. began 10 disappear ~ afler the signing of the Homestead N:t Ii 1862. Squabbles with sllCep ranchers funM eroded the range land al'ailable for the grtI canle herds to roam. And, as lhe milrood:i ex' panded westward, the canlc drives shol1tl1lll and the economies or scale that ~ callIe ranching began to dll-indle. AltlnJP: there are still m,UlY large callIe r:UlChes. ~ the early 20th century, great cattle dril13 hi become nothing more than rodder for I~ ,00<1
BEEF ,"""
299
Organ Meats ~1'I'3.1
organ meats are used in [<XXI service operations. This group of prodknown as offal [t includes the hean, kidney. tongue, tripe (stomach ming\ and oxtail. Offal benefit from moist-heal cooking and are often used in !dip. stew or braised dishes. ...1, i:.
BIJI'CHERlNG PROCEDURES
Offal---(loo CIIlkri mrit!ly meals, I!l!ibU! et/trails (for /'XiI/1/pit. /be hMrl, Jddrtl!)'S. fit/Fr. su:ee/brr!ads and tongue) (lfI(llttlremllits (for example, o.lfnil and pig~fetl) of(111 animal.
.N--,
tJthough many food service operations buy their beef previously cut and por'iJned, you still should be able to fab ricate cuts of beef and perform basic OOrchering tasks.
PIiocIDURE FOR ClJITING A N,'W YORK STEAK FROM A BONELESS STRIP LOIN
I, SqUJre Up the strip loin by
trimming off the lip so it extends I to 2 inches (25 to 5 em) from
2. Tum the strip over and trim off
any fat or connective tissue.
3.
Turn the strip back Q\'er and trim
the fat covering to a unifonn thickness of 1/ 4 inch (6 mm).
me ere muscle.
-I. Cut the stc:lks to the thickness or \.... e ight desired.
5. TIle eye meat of steaks located on the sirloin end of the strip is divided by a strip of connective tissue. Steaks cut from this area are called vein steaks and are inferior to stea ks cut from the rib end of the strip.
300
~
CIIAPTER 13
PROCEDURE FOR TRlM' UNG A FUll BEEF TENDERLOIN AND CtJITlNG CHATEAUBRIAN·D, FILET MIGNON At.'ID TENDt:R TIPS
IT1)11)
1. CUI and pull the excess fal from
the entire tenderloin to expose tht meat.
2. Remove the chain muscle from the side of the tenderloin. (Although it contains much connective tissue, the chain muscle may be trimmed and the meat used as tenderloin trimmings in various dishes.)
j.
Trim away all of the fat and silverskin. Do so by loosening a small piece of silverskin, then, holding the loosened silverskin tightly with one hand, cut it away in long strips, angling (he knife up toward the silverskin slightly so Ihat only the silvers kin is removed and no meat is wasted.
PROCEDURE FOR BIJITERFLYING
4. Cut the tenderloin as desired inlO (left 10 right) tips, ch;ileaubriand, filet mignon, lourne
MEArs
Many CULS of boneless mealS such as tenderloin steaks and boneless p:xk chops can be butterflied to create a thinner cut that has a greater surface w and cooks more quickly.
I . Make the first cut nearly a[[the
way through the meat, keeping it attached by leaving approximalCly 1/4 inch (6 mm) uncut.
2. Make a second cut, this lime culling all the way through, completely removing the steak from the tenderloin.
BEEP
tw 13.1 ".,.,
«a. 301
USING COMMON CIITS OF BEEF Subprima[ or
Fabricated Cut
IMPS
Cooking Methods
Serving' Suggestions
Chuck roll tied Slew meal Ground beef
116A
135A
Combinatio n (braise; stew) Combinatio n (stew)
Pot roast, beef stew Beef stew Hamburgers; meatloaf Chili con came; beef stews Corned beef; New England boiled dinner
136
Dry heal (broil or grill; roast) Combinatio n (braise; stew)
Brisket
120
Shank
117 109
Moisl heat (simme r) Combination (br:lIse) Combination (braise)
Shredded beef for tamales
112
Dry heal (roast) Dry heal (roast)
Roa,~1 prime rib Roast prime rib
1210 123A
Dry heal (broil or grill) Combination (braise)
Steak; faji tas
173, 174
Dry heat (broil or grill)
ISO
Dry heat (broil or grill; roast; saul(!~
Flank steak
189 193
Steamship round Top (inside) round
160 16S
Dry heat (broil or grill; roaSI) Dry heat (broil or grilD Combination (braise) Dry heat (rooSt) Dry heal (roast) Combination (braise)
Oven-ready rib roaSt Rib eye roll Skin steak
Shon ribs Porterhouse or T-bone steaks Strip loin
, Tenderloin
{iONCLUSION .n-, AIIonin Careme once said that ~bcef is the soul of cooking." It is also the most ~Iar meat consumed in the United States and undoubtedly will play an impxunt role on almost any menu . Beer s assertive fla vor stands up well to most any S:luce and seasonings. Prefabricated products are readily available. But performing some basic fabIllIion procedures in your Own kitchen saves money and allows you to cut ~ fDt"Jt to rour exact specifications. Each primal and subprimal cut has its II'n distinct characteristics. The primal rib, short loin and sirloin produce the IXl5l popular and most expensive cuts of beef. Once the beef is properly fab!'Gted, choose the appropriate dry-heat, moist-heat or combination cooking D:!hod for that cut.
~UE5TlONS FOR DISCUSS/ON
.n-,
II.isI each beef primal cut, and describe its location on the carcass. For each print:ll cut, identify two subprimaJ or fa bricated cuts taken from it. 1 Would it ~ retter to usc the chuck fo r grilling or stewing? Explain your ;um\w. } 'l"hich fabricated cuts contain a portion of the tenderloin? \X'hat cook ing methods are best suited for these cuts? E.xplain your answer.
POI '"'" Of
hash
Braised short ribs Steaks New York steak; minute steak entrec6tes bordetaise Tournedos Rossini: I,)eef Wellington London broil Braised stuffed flank steak Roast beef Roast beef Braised beef roulade
302
..... , CIIAPl'ER 13 4. Name four cutS that can be produced from a whole beef tenderloin. Describe a preparation procedure for each Cll!. 5. Most steaks are cut from the hindquarter. What popu lar steak is cut from the forequarter, and why is it lender when other cuts from the forequarter are relatively tough?
• )L/DDfflONAL BEEP RECIPES
,N-,
RECIPE 13. 1
T -B oNE S TEAK NOTE: 7bis dish fl/P!tlrs hltbe Chapter ~lillgphorograph.
RlITH'S CHRIS STEAK ImUSE, PtlOI'..\"IX, AZ
Yield: 1 Serving
Method: Broiling
T-bone steak, 24 oz. (700 g) Sal! and pepper Whole butter, melted Parsley, chopped
I IT 1 oz.
I IT
as needed
as needed
30g
1. Season both sides of the steak with the salt and pepper. 2. Broil the steak to the desired degree of doneness and place on a very !II
serving platter. J. Ladle the melted bUller o\'er the steak and sprinkle with chopped
pa~
Approximate valuC$ per serving: Calories 2244. Total fat 168 g, Saturated fat 71 g, Cholesterol mg, Sodium 1710 mg, Tou.1 carbohydrates 3 g, Protein 172 g, Vitamin A 45%, Vitamin C'" Iron 133%, Caldum 175%
= = = = = = ...".. = = = = == 1 RECIPE 13. 2
MARINATED L ONDON BROIL Yield: 6 5 to 8-02. (I50- to 250-g) Servings Marinade: Oli\'e oil Balsamic vinegar Fresh rosemary, chopped Garlic, minced Pepper Beef flank steak, 2-3 lb. 0-1 1/2 kg)
Method: Grilling
4 oz. 4 oz. 2lbsp. 2 oz. I tsp.
5 ml
I
I
120ml 120 ml
30 ml
60g
I . Combine the marinade ingredients in a hQ{el pan. 2. Add the flank steak to the marinade and coat completely. Allow the mel to marinate for at least 4 hours. J. Grill the steak rare to medium rare. If cooked fu rther, the meat will becoat extremely tough . 4. Carve into 1!4-inch (6-millimeter) thick slices, cutting diagonally acrossdr grain .. Approximate values per 8-m. (227-g) serving: Calories 470, TOlal fat 23 g, saturated fat 10 g. Clt lesterol 152 mg, Sodium 188 mg, Total carbohydrates 0 g. Protein 61 g, Iron 40%
BEEF
RECIPE 13.3
ClIATEAUBRlAND Chef lekmd AlkillSOIl,
WAS/IL'iGTQX, DC
Yield: 2 SeJ'\'ings
Method: Roasting
Brtf filet. cut from the M head~ of the tenderloin, 16-24 ounces (500-750 grams) I ~~~~
IT
IT
Oarificd bUller
,IS needed
as needed
I. Tie lhl.' beef with butcher's twine and season with
5.1lt
and pepper.
l \lUle the beef in clarified butter until it is well browned. j.
Transfer the beef
\0
a 450°F (230°C) oven and roast until done, approxi-
mJlcly 10-12 minutes for rnre (internal temperature of 125°F/;2°C), or 1')..18 minutes for medium (J 40°F/60°C). t kmol'c the beef from the oven and allow it [ 0 rest for al least 5 minmes ~on' carving. 1 .\1 !ol'l'\'ice lime, slice the beef evenly on a slight diagonal bias.
to-oz. (30 t-g) S(!f\'ing: Calo ries 70S, Total fal 40 g. Salur:lI('d fal
nluo's ptT ~ !"l) mg. Sodium
18 g, Cho-
USO mg, Tout carboh)'dralC5 I g. Protein 80 g. Vitamin A t "., Iron (:,(M
".ilcauhriand is traditionall)' served with bearnaise sauce and a bouquetiere legetables.
RECIPE 13.4
HOillE-S1YLE MEATLOAF Melhod: Baking
'ield: 16 8-oz. (250-g) Servings
Onion, small dice Celery. small dice Garlic, chopped Oil Froh bread crumbs
Tooulo luice Ground b..>cf Ground pork [Y$' beaten
,..
l':r Pal"iley, chopped
lib. 8 oz. 21bsp. 2 oz. 6 oz. 12 oz. 41b. 41b.
450 g 250 g 30 ml 60 ml ISO g 350 ml
6
6 15 ml 5 ml 30 IllI
I TI)Sp. I lSp.
21bsp.
1.8 kg 1.8 kg
/. \lute the onions, celery and garlic in the oil unliltender. Remove from the Ik-JI and cool. l Comhine all ingredienlS; mix well. J Form inlO lo~ves of the desired size and place in loaf pans. CO llfillllCd
•
303
304
~
CIIAPl'ER J3
4. Bake at 350°F (I80"C) until the meal loaf reaches an internal lempernlUf( of 16;"F (74"C), approximately 1 10 1 1/ 2 homs.
5. Allow the loaves to rest 15 minUies before slicing. Cut slices of the desired thickness and serve with a tomato or mushroom salLce. Approximate I';lII.leS per lG-oz. (Z9~g) serving: Calorie!! 755, Total (;at 50 g, SalUrated fat 19,
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 13.5
TOURNEDOS ROSSINI Method: S3Ulei~
Yield: 4 Servings Tourned05,
3 oz. (90 g) each
Clarified bulter
8 as needed
8
8 8 8
8 8 8 120 !TIl 225 ml IT
as needed
Croutons, Cll t to the size of
the lournedos Foie gras, 1-oz. (30-g) slices Truffie slices Madeira Oemi-glace
4 oz. 8 oz. IT
Salt and pepper
1. Saute the beef in clarified butter to the desired donencss. Place m tournedos on 101' of a crouton. Top each with a slice of roie gras, !hen( slice of truffle. Hold in a warnl pla<.-e. 2. De~reasethe pan. Deglaze the pan with the madeira and add the demi·gba 3. Reduce the sauce to the desired consistency and adjust the seasonings. 4. Warm the tournedos briefly under a broiler or in the oven. Pour the sauce around the toufIleclos. Garnish with watercress, 5.1utced asparngus iitJ: chateau potatoes. ApproxiITl:lle values per serving: caJorie5 652. ToU! (:II 29 g, Salur:lled fat 13 g, ChoJeslcrol itll. Sodium B60 mg, Total ClIrbohrdr:alcs 36 g, Protein 60 g, Vitamin A 682%. Iron 16#10
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 13.6
MINUTE STEAK DljONAlSE Method: Saute~
Yield: 2 Servings Sirloin steak, trimmed, 6 oz. (170 g) Dijon muslard Onion, small dice Clarified butter Heavy cream Whole butler Salt and pepper
2
2
I oz.
2 oz. I oz.
30g 60S 30ml
30z.
901ll1
l oz.
30g
IT
IT
1. Pound tbe steaks to a 1/4-inch (6-millimeter) thickness.
2. Cover one side of each sirloin first with I 1/2 teaspoons (8 milliliters) ri t!r mustard and then half the onions, pressing the onions fimlly into the std:i 3. Saute the steaks in the clarified butter, presentation (onion) side down Iirt Remove and hold in a warm place.
BEEF '"""
4. Degrease the pan. Add the cream and reduce by half. Add the rest of the Oijon mustard, S Monte au beurre. Adjust the seasonings and serve the steaks with the sauce. JRir!m.'llaIC l'al\le$ per serving: Calories 671. Total fat 45 g. Saturated fat 23 g, Cholesterol 255 mg, . . . . ~ mg, Total carbohyd.r:n es 6 g, Protein 60 g, Vitamin A 36%, Iron 44'16
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 13.7
BEEF STROGANOFF Method: Sauteing
YI(Id: 8 s.oz, (250-g) Servings
Tenderloin tips, emince
21b.
Oarilied bUller
1 1/2 oz.
I Thsp. 1 Tbsp.
I kg 45 ml 120 g 450 g 300 ml 300 ml 250 g 15 mt 15 rul 15 m!
Onion, medium dice Mushrooms, halved Demi-glace
4 oz.
IT
IT
24 oz.
700 g
l ib.
10 oz, 10 oz. 8 oz. 1 Thsp.
Heavy cream
m cream
Oijon mustard
Fresh dill, chopped Fresh parsley, chopped Salt and pepper Egg noodles, cooked
1 Saute the tenderloin tipS in the butter, searing on all sides. Remove the meat and set aside. 1 Add the onion 10 the pan and saute lightly. Add the mushrooms and saute until dry. Add the demi-glace. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook 10 minutes. , Add the cream, sour cream, mustard and any meat juices that accumulated ~-hile holding (he meat. Return the meat to the sauce 10 reheat. Stir in the dill and parsley. Adjust the seasonings and serve over egg noodles. ""_," "'~', pe' ~,~og.: CalorlCII 635, Total fat 39 g, Saturated fat 20 g, Cholesterol 201 mg, $10 mg, Total carboh rd ratcs 32 g, Protein 40 g, Vitamin II. 41%, Iron 46%, Calcium t 1%
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 13.8
ENTRECOTES BORDEIAlSE Method: Sauteing
Y".rJd: 4 Servings
Beef marrow fJltrec6{es, 14 oz. (400 g) each SaIl and pepper Oarified butter Shallots, chopped Red wine Oemi-glace 1'hoIe bUlter
4 oz. 2 IT 2 oz. 2 Thsp. 8 oz. 12 oz. I oz.
120 g 2 IT 60ml 30 ml 250 ml 340 ml
30g
305
306 .,...
CHAIWI
13 1. Slice the marrow into rounds and poach in salt water for 3 minUles. Drain the marrow and sel it aside. 2. Season the steaks and saute them in the clarified butter 10 the desired doneness. Finish in the oven if desired. Remove 10 a platter and hold in a
warm place.
3. Saute the shallOtS in the sa me pan. 4. Oeglaze the pan with the wine and reduce by half. Add the demi-g1ace; simmer for 5 minutes. 5. Monte au beurre. 6: Add the marrow \0 the with the sauce.
5<1Uce.
Adjust the seasonings and serve the
stem
Approxinule values pt'f serving: Calories 610, Total fal 35 g, Salul':Iltd fal 17 g. Cholesterol lOO ...
Sodium 810 mg, Total carbohrdrate5 5 g, Prote in 57 g, Vitamin A 21%, Iron
44~
======= ~ RECIPE 13.9
PEPPER STEAK Method : Sauteing
Yield: 2 Servings
Boneless strip steaks, approx. 8 oz. (250 g) each Salt Peppercorns, cracked Clarified butter Cognac He:lVY cream Whole butter
2
2
TI
TI
3 Thsp. 1 oz. 2 oz. 4 oz. 2 oz.
45 ml 30ml 60ml 120 ml
60g
1. Season the steaks with sal\. Spread the peppercorns in a hotel pan ml
press the steaks into them, lightly coating each side. 2. Saute the steaks in the clarified butter over high beat for 2 to 3 minutes 00 each side. j. Remove the pan from the heat. Pour the cognac over the steaks, return !Ix pan to the heat and fl ambe. When the flames subside, remove the steak! from the pan and keep them warm on a plate. 4. Add the cream to the pan. Bring to a boil and reduce for 2 minutes o\·er hi¢! heat; monte au beurre. Pour this sauce over the steaks and serve inunedia:etr Approximate values pef serving: Calories 950. Totallat 73 g. Satu ratL-d fat 42 g. Cholesterol 300", SodIum 1525 mg. Total carbohydrates 8 g, Protein 51 g. VitamIn A 7~ Iron 4(M, CaIdu:m l.!ll
======== ~
RECIPE 13. 10
SWISS STEAK Yield: 10 Servings
Beef bottom round steaks, 6 oz. (I80 g) each Flour, for dredging Salt and pepper Oil Onion, small dice
Method: Braising
10 as needed
10 as needed
TI
TI
2 oz. l ib.
60 Illl 450 g
BEEF
carlic cloves, crushed Cdery f1oo, Brown stock Tomato puree Sochet, Bar leaves Dried thyme Peppercorns, m lshed
3
3
8 oz.
250 g 120 g 2.2 It 180 g
4 oz. 5 pI. 6 oz. 2
112 !Sp. 112 !Sp. 8
PaiSley stems
2 2ml 2 ml
8
Dredge the steaks in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. He:Jl1he oil in :l roasting pan and brown the steaks well on both sides. Re!OOI'C the steaks. Add (he onions, garlic and celery; Saute until tender. Add lhe flour and cook 10 a brown roux.
Gradually, add the brown stock, whisking until the sauce is thickened and SlIlOOIh. Add the tomato puree and sachet. Rt1um the steaks to the br:.lising pan, cover and cook in a 300°F 050°C) oren unti! (ender. approximately 2 hours. Rerno\'c (he steaks from the sauce. Discard the sachet. Strnin the sauce and adjusI the seasonings. Serve the steaks with the sauce. . Total f:1.I 26 g. S3tuJ'3ted fat 7 g. Cholcste rol 170 mg, 61 g. Vlwnin A 49%. Vita min C Iron 52% :::.~ ~~~"'~~~~"~.i:'~";. ,~C.~Iori:':~~ ~601. Protein I~
RECIPE 13.1 1
BRAISED SHORT RIBS OF BEEF Method: Braising
rrld: 8 B-oz. (230-g) SClVings
f1oo,
4 oz. 1 Thsp. 1 tsp. 1/ 2 tsp.
120 g 15 ml 5 ml 2 ml
..,
6 1b. I oz. 6 oz. 4 oz. 24 oz. as needed
2.7 kg 30ml 170 g 120 g 700 ml as needed
SO ~nd pepper
IT
IT
"'
Ftpper Dried rosemary Short ribs of beef, cut in 2·in. (5·em) ponions .bleoil Onion, chopped CtIoy, chopped Broun beef stock
• "mIlin, the flour, salt , pepper and rosemary. Dredge the' ribs in the sea-
m nour.
oil and brown the ribs well in a heavy brazier. Remove and hold place. the vegetables to the brazier and saule lightly. the ribs 10 the pan, add the stock and eook in a 300°F (IsoaC) O\'en lBlIil done, approximately 2 112 hours. 1 the
ilia
\\"3mt
Conlin lied
~
307
308 '""'.
CHAPTER
13 5. Remove the ribs from the liqu id and skim off the excess fat. 6. Bring the liquid to a boil on the stove tOPi thicken it with roux to sired consistency and simmer for 15 minutes. Strain the s.mce and me seasonings. Return the ribs to the sauce and simme r for 5 minutes. Approximate values per serving: Calories I ISO, Toul fat 70 g, Saturatl"d fat 'I7 g, Cbolesterul mg. Sodium 1154 mg, Total carbohydrates 18 g. Protein 110 g, Vitamin A 18%, Iron 85~
RECIPE 13. 12
H UNGARIAN GOULASH Yield: 108-02. (250-g) Servings Lard or vegetable oil Onion , medium dice
Hungarian paprika Garlic, chopped Caraway seeds Salt Pepper White stock Tomato paste Beef stcw meat, CUI in 1 112-in. (4-cm) cubes
Method:
2 oz. 2 lb. 4 Thsp. 1 Thsp. 1/2 tsp. IT 1/2 tsp. I ql.
60 m! 900 g 60ml 15 ml 2 ml IT
4 oz.
2 rnl I It 120 g
; lb.
2.2 kg
/ . Saule the onions in the lard or oil, browning Iig/lIly. 2. Add the paprika, garlic, caraway seeds, sal! and pepper; mix well. 1. Add the white stock and tommo paste. Bring to a lx>il, then reduce simmer. 4. Add the meat and continue simmering until the meat is very tender, proximately I 1/2 hours. Adjust tbe seasonings and serve. Appl'Qximate values per 12-01.. (36 I.g) sen'ing: calories 645. Total fat 32 g, Saturated f;u 1 lesterol 235 mg, Sodium 910 mg, Total carbo hydr:ales 13 g, Prolein 73 g, Vitamin A ,... 'b"
C 20%. Iron 63%
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 13. 13
BEEF BOURGUIGNON Yield: 10 8-oz. (2SO-g) Servings J\'larinade: Garlic cloves, cmshed Onions, sliced Carrots, sliced Parsley stems Bouquet garni: Carrot Slick, 4 in. (10 cm) Leek, split, 4-in. (1 0-cm) piece Fresh thyme Bay leaf Peppercorns, cmshed
Method: Slewing
3 3
3 3
2 10
2 10
I sprig I
1
10
10
I sprig
BEEF '"""
Sal!
IT
Dry red wine, preferably Burgundy
26 oz.
Beef chuck, cubed for stew
41b.
1.8 kg
\'egdable oil
2oz,
60ml
floor
2lbsp. I lbsp. 4 I pint
30
30ml 15 ml 4 450ml 450 g 45 g 30
IT
IT
Tomato paste TO!l1:Iloes, quartered
Brown stock Mushrooms, quartered Unsalled buller Pearl onions, boiled and peeled Salt and pepper
IT 750ml
l ib,
1 112 oz.
L Combine the garliC, onions, carrolS, parsley, bouquet garni, peppercorns, salt and wine to make a marinade. 1 Marinate the meat for several hours under refrigeration. 3. Remove and drain the meat. Reserve the marinade.
4. Dry the beef and saute it in the oil until well browned. Do this in several batches if necessary. 1 Return all the meat 10 the pot. Sprinkle with flour and cook to make a blond roux, , Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 5 minutes,
1. Add the reserved marinade, tomatoes and brown stock. Cook in a 350°F (lM"C) oven umil the meal is lender, approximately 2 1/2 hours. & Remove the meat from the sauce. Strain the sauce through a china cap, pressing to extract all the liquid. Discard the solids. Return the liquid and the beef to the pot. J Saute the mushrooms in the buner and add them to the meat and sauce. Add the onions and adjust the seasonings. Simmer for 10 minutes \0 blend the navors. l"alues per tkn. (227-g) ;\erving: Calories 315, Total (al 15 g, Sa.lUr3.led fal 6.5 g, 010..,.,. fl mg. Sodium 640 mg, TOiaI carboh}"drales 8 g, Prole in 30 g, Vlwnl.ll. A ~ Vitamin
t 1"'- Iron Z6%
~
RECIPE 13. 14
CHIU CON CARNE Y.~:
I gal. (4 II)
Onion, medium dice \'egetable oil Garlk, chopped Ground beef Tanata, crushed Tomato, diced Tomato paste Brown stock ChilU powder Cumin fuy leaves
Method: Braising lib. 1 Tbsp. 1/2 oz. 2 lb. 8 oz. 2 lb. 4 lb. 4 oz.
450g 15011 15 g 1.2 kg
1 oz.
I kg 1.8 kg 120 g 450 ml 30g
2 !Sp. 4
4
1 pt.
JO 011
Co m(lllled
309
310 ,
•
CJIAPl1iR 13
SaIl and pepper Dry kidney beans, soaked and simmered in waler until tcnder
IT
IT
12 oz.
350g
1. Saute the onions in the oil lImil tender. Add the garlic and saule I minUle 2. Add the beef and brown, stirring occasionally. Drain off the excess fat. J. Add the remaining ingredients, bring to a simmer, cover and cook for 1 hour.
4. Remove (he bay leaves and :Idjusl the seasonings. Approximate l'alues per \().Q7. (309·g) serving, Calories 3]0, TObl fat 16 g, Saturated fat 6 g. a. lesl~rol 62 mg, Sodium 535 mg, TOiai carboh r dr:lIIe5 19 g. Protein 21 g. Vitamin A ~ In.iI C 44%. Iron 32%, CaJdum 93%
======= .~ RECIPE 13. 15
CARPACCIO Yield: 8 Servings Beef tenderloin, trimmed of .. II
silverskin and fat Mayonnaise, fresh Dijon mustard Salt and pepper Onion
Capers, chopped Cracked black pepper Olive oil
l ib.
8 oz. l1bsp. IT 4 oz. 4 tsp. IT 3 Thsp.
450 g 250 g 15 ml IT 120g 20 ml IT
45 ml
1. Place the tenderloin in the freezer until nearly frozen . 2. Combine the fresh mayonnaise with the mustard. Season with salt 2DI pepper. 3. Peel the onion and cut it in half from the stem to the root end. Slice it l'('lf thin. 4. Slice Ihe nearly frozen tenderloin on an electric slicer very thin, ainu transparent. On a very cold plate, arrange one slightly overlapping la)'erd thin slices of beef. 5. Sprinkle each plate of beef with 112 teaspoon (2.5 milliliters) of capers. I generous amOunt of cracked black pepper, salt and 112 ounce OS p of shaved onion. Drizzle with 1 teaspoon (5 milliliters) of the olil'e oil aM spoon 1/2 ounce (15 grams) of the mayonnaise in the center of each pb:t. Serve very cold. Approximate \'a\ues per 4-oz. OOS-g) serving: Calories 360. To w {:il .n g. SatUr.lt<"d fat - g. c» ieslerot 70 mg, SOdium 250 mg. Total C:irboh),drates 1 g. Prole ln 16 g
II
, •
,
~
•
•
~
•
•
c
• •
,.
-, ,
•
•
,
,
•
'"
•
.
.
•
•
=== ~ ==
After studying this chapter, you will be able to: t"'\!I..
~ ~.
identify the primal, subprimal and fa bricated cues of veal perform basic butchering procedures apply appropri:lte cnoking
methods 10 severa! common CUtS of veal
ows /n IlSt calve before they begin to give milk. These caln's are the basis of today's veal industfy. Veal is the meat of calves mul!r the age of nine months. Most veal comes from calves slaughtered when they are 8 10 16 weeks old, however. Veal is lighter in color than bee! has a more delicate fla vor and is generally more le"der. l'ou~ veal has C/ fi rm te>.:ture, light pink color and vefY little fat. As SOOIl Qj a calf StaftS eatiflg solid f ood, the iron in Ihe food begi/ls 10 111m t~ young animal's meat red. Meat from calves ~/lIllgblered whel/ Ibt:r are older them fi ve months is wlled calf It tends to he a deeperred with some marbling and external fat. Veal 's low fat cOlltent makes it a popular meat, especially among those lookil1g for al/ altemative to beef Its delicate fla vor is comJkmel/ted by both classic afld modem sauces.
== ~ == FO£HlJIA -FED VEoll
VERSUS FREE-JlAA'CE V£lL
MOSt yea] produced today is knO\\TI as ronnula-fed veal. Formula-fed cahoes are fed only nutrient-rich liquids; they are tethered in pens only slightly larger than their bodies in older to restrict their ffiO'o'elTleflts. PI'e\'eI\t-
ing the calves from eating grasses and other foods containing iron keeps their fleo;h white; restricting movement keeps meir muscles from toughening. In recent ),ears, contro1'e1'Sy and allegations of cruelty have arisen concerning these methods.
PRIMAL AND SUBPRIMAL
Curs OF Vru
.P."
After slaughter, the calf carcass can be split down the backbone into (Wo I:t lateral halves or, more typically, cut :llong the natuml cUlVature between tilt 11 th :lnd 12th ribs into a foresaddle (front ponion) and a hindsaddle (rearjXf' tion). The veal carc.lss yields five primal cuts: three from the foresaddle (tir shoulder, foreshank and breast, and rib), and two from the hindsaddle (tIr loin and leg). The veal shoulder, rib and loin primals contain both bilatenl ponions; that is, :l veal loin contains both sides of the animal's loin. Figure 14.1 shows the relationship between the calfs bone structure anddr primal Cuts. As with all meats, it is important to know the location of Ixm when CUlling or working with veal. This makes meat fa brication and car.-q: easier and aids in identifying cuts. Figure 14.2 shows the prill1:l1 cuts ofl'l1 and their location. A veal C'Jrcass weighs in a range of 60 to 245 pam (27- 1JO kg).
An alternative to formula-fed veal is free-
range veal. Free-range 1'CaI is produced from cahts that are a110\\'ed to roam freely and eat grasses and other natural foods. Because they consume feed containing iron, their flesh is a reddish pink and has a substantially differenl fJaror than meat from fonnula-fed call-es of the same age.
Opinions differ on which has the better flavor. Some chefs prefer ~le oonsi$ten~y mild, sweet taste of fonnula-fed \-eat. Othets prefer the more substantial f1:wor of freerange l'eal. The two are interchangeable in recipes. Cost, hO\\'e\'eI', may be ~"IC ultimate deciding factor when detennining which to use. Free·range veal is more expcnsiI'e ~lan fonnula·fed \-eat because of its limited production.
FOl'esaddle Shoulder Similar to the beef shoulder or chuck, the veal shoulder accounts for 2 1~ (t the carcass weight. It contains four rib bones (as opposed 10 five in the Ixrl' chuck) and portions of the backbone, blade and aml bones. The backbone, blade and arm bUIl\;;s arc somelimes removed and the!lk'l roasted or stuffed and roasted. Although shoulder chops and steaks can tr fa bricated, they are inferior to the chops cut from more tender areas sud! ~ the loin or rib. Oft en the shoulder meat is ground or cubed for stew. Bea.lit of the relatively large amount of connective tissue it contains, meat from tI:t shoulder is beSI braised or stewed. Foreshank and Breast The foreshank and breast are located beneath the shoulder and rib seaiomll the front half of the carcass. They are considered one primal cut. Combined. they account for approximately 16% of the carcass weight. This primal conoo
'''"
..... [ ......
flock IIont.!
flip boot
... "'"
(sm~)
Round Bone (iemllf)
Chine Bones (bodies of ca.icIl,
thoracic, lumbar:llld sacr.al'mebrae)
Fffiher Bones (spinws prote5SCS)
Rib CaniI3ges (rosul cartilage)
......
Rib Bones
(diona: Imtbrv)
""'" ("""
...... ----'.....-1..J TbeSke/ela! Stnlcillre oj(I C{/If
.b
The Pn'mal Gil ts o/ Ieal
..... 315
3/6
~
CHAFfER 14
rib bones and rib cartilage, breast bones and shank bones. Because the ca[ is slaughtered young, many of the breast bones are cartilaginous ralher th3II bony. This cartilage, as well as the ample fat and connective tissue also presen! ill the breast, breaks down during long moist cooking, thus making the flarorful breast a good choice for braising. Veal breast can also be cubed for stews sudI as veal fricassee and veal blanqueue, rotled and stuffed, or trimmed an:!
ground. The foreshank is also very flavorful but tough. II can be braised whole (I sliced perpendicular to the shank bone and braised \0 produce osso buco.
Rib The double rib, also known as a veal hOICI ~_ _,_~~rack, is a very lender, relatively small .... cut accounting for approximately 9% of the carcass weight. It is very popular and very ex-
pensive. The double r::tck consists of two racks, each with seven rib bones and a portion of the backbone. Veal racks can be roasted either whole or split into two sides. Veal racks can be boned out; each side produces a veal rib eye and a small piece of tenderloin known as the short tenderloin, both of ~-e"III"""'". Ii which make excellent roasts. More often, veal racks are trimmed and cut into chops, which can also be bone-in or boneless, to be grilled, sauteed or braised.
Hindsaddle
Veal Loin
Loill Chops
loill The veal loin is posterior to the primal rib, contains two ribs (numbers 12 ml 13) and accounts for approximately 10% of the carcass weight. The loin ~ of the loin eye muscle on top of the rib bones and the tenderloin under them. The veal loin eye is very tender, and the tenderloin is, without a doubt, the mOSt tender cut of veal. If the primal veal loin is separated from the primal leg before the tenderloin is removed, the tenderloin will be rut into two pieces. The small portion (short tenderloin) remains in the primal loin, and the large portion (butt tenderloin) remains in the sirloin portion of the primal leg. The tenderlOin is sometimes removed and cut Boneless Strip ua into medallions. The veal loin is often cut into chops, bonein or boneless. It is usually cooked using dry-heat methods such as broiling, grilling, roasting or sauteing.
VE
""" 317
II! ~ primal
real leg consists of both the sirloin and the leg. Together,
Ik\ xroum for approximately 42% of the carcass weight. The leg is 5epamted from the loin b}' a cuI perpendicular to Ik tuckbone immediately anterior 10 the hip bone, and it IIXl3in-;
c~
portions of the backbone, tail bone, hip bone,
*",lJtbough 00ne, round bone and hind shank. is be il
tcnder enough 10
rOllsted whole, the
trrJI kg is lypically fabricated into cutlets :md scallops.
bbricale these CUiS, the leg is first broken down into muscles: the lOp round, eye round, knuckle, sirm0011001 round (which includes the sirloin) and butt ~n, Each of these muscles can be reduced \0 sealkyJ: bl' [rimming all fat and visible connect ive [issue and !b:ing against the grain 10 the desired thickness. The seal~ then should be pounded carefully \0 tenderize (hem furkrand to prevent them from curling when cooked. The hindshank is somewhat meatier than the foreshank, bUI blh are prepared and cooked in the same manner. tll!I.1~
Vetil Lt.'!;
B«ausc the \'eal carcaSS is small enough to be handled easily, it is some.-0 purchased in forms larger th1tn the primal cuts described earlier. Depcrding on employee skill, available equipment and storage space and an ~. to utilize full}' all the cuts and trimmings that fabricating meat produces, 'QI ma), \\'lm to purchase veal in one of the following forms: t
fon>saddle: TIle anterior portion of the C"dTcass after it is severed from the
hindsaddle by a cut following the natural curvature between the II th and 1~ ribs. It contains the primal shoulder, foreshank and breast, and rib . • Hllldsaddle: TIle posterior portion of the carcass after it is severed from the fOll!S:lddle. It contains the pri/mll loin and leg. t Back: The trimmed rib and loin sections in one piece. The back is particularly useful when producing large qllantities of veal chops. t iffilside: One bilateml half of the carcass, produced by cutting lengthwise thorough the backbone.
flilldslx(IIk Gul for Osso 811co
Organ Meats Sn't'fal calf organ meats are llsed in food service opef'"Jtions.
S.\"t.'lbre:ids arc the thymus glands of \'eai md lamb. As an animal ages, its trrnus gland shrinks; therefore, sweetbreads are nOt available from older catIX meep. \'eal sweetbreads are much more popular than lamb sweetbreads lIthi:.rountry. Good-quality sweetbreads should be plump and firm , with the ~ membrane intact. Delicately flavored and tender, they can be prepared aImosr any cooking method.
*
Su't!elbreads
~'Ut'er
Ul\-es' liver is much more popul:tr than beef liver because of its tenderness
ai mild navor. Good-quality calves' liver should be firm and moist, with a !bin)" appearance and without any off-odor. It is most often sliced and sauteed [(broiled and served with a sauce.
Calves'lirlCr
3/8
.
c/1AF'f'ER 14
Kit/nejls Kidneys arc more popul:tr in other pans of the world than in the United SUlt'i Good-qu:IJity kidneys should be plump, firm and encased in :I shiny membrane. Properl}, prepared kidne}'s have a rich flavor and firm texture: theY2!r best prepared by moist-heat cooking methods and are sometimes uSt.."XI in Sle'il or kidney pie.
Kidneys
B UTCHERING PROCEDURES
T
>
j\'lany food service operations purchase veal in primal or other large cuts art fabricate it in-house to their own specifications. There are several impolt3l1 veal fabrication and butchering techniques you should master.
PROCEDURE FOR Bo~qNG A LEG OF VML
1. Remove the shank by culling through the kn<::e join!. Remove the excess fat and flank mea!.
J.
Remove the peh'ic oone by carefully clltting around the bone, separat ing it from the meat. Continue until the oone is completely freed from the meat.
2. Remove the bun lenderloin fTOOI the inside of the pelvic bone.
4. With the inside of the leg up, remove the lOp round~ cutting along the natural seam.
,'''-'
1 Remm'c the shank meat. (It is (he round piece of meat ~ing between the eye round lind the bone, on the
slunk end of the leg,)
• 319
6. Remove the round bone and the knuckle together by rutting around the bone and through the natural seams separating the knuckle from the other muscles. Separate the knuckle meat from the bone.
~
Remove the sirloin.
8. Remove the eye round from the
bottom round.
9. The completely boned-out veal leg. producing a tOP Il000111 Itound
Bun Tenderloin
round, eye round, knuckle, shank mCal , butt tenderloin , sirloin, bottom round bones and trimmings.
320
,"'2\.
ClW''11£R
14 PROCEDURE FOR CIJITING AND POUNDING sc..o\UOPS
I . Veal scallops are cut from
relatively large pieces of veal (here, a ponion of the tOp round). All fat :mcl silverskin must be trimmed. Going against the grain, cut slices approximately 1/4 inch (3 millimeter) thick; cut on the bias to produce larger pieces.
2. Place the scallops between twO pieces of plastic wrap and pourxI lightly to flatten and tenderize ~ meal. Be careful nOt 10 tear or pound holes in the meal.
PROCEDURE FOR ClfITlNG E~HNCE
I . Emince is cut from relati\·ely SOli.
lean pieces of meal. Here \·eal ~ cut across the gra in into SOlan, till slices. PROCEDURE FOR BONING A VEAL LOIN AND CIJITING IT "TO BoNElESS VEAL CHOPS
I . Remove the tenderloin in a single piece from the
inside of the loin by follow ing the vcnebme and clLtting completely around thc tcnderloin.
2. From the backbone side, cui along the natural cu!\t of the backbone, separating the loin meat from the backbone.
"'" ...,., 321
J. Trim any excess fat from the loin, and trim the flank 10 create a 3inch (7,j-centimeter) lip. Tightly roll up the loin with (he flank on the outside.
4. Tic the lain, using the procedure described below, at I-inch (2.5centimeter) intervals. CuI between the pieces of twine for individual boneless loin chops.
I'iocEDURF. FOR TYING MEATS
Here we appJ~' the tying procedure 10 a boneless veal loin; the same proceilJre can be used on any type of meat.
I. CUI a piece of string long enough
10 wrap completely around the loin. Holding one end between
2. Wmp the string around itself and pass the loose end back through the hole.
3. Pull to tighten the knot. Adjust the
4. Loop one end of the string around your thumb and forefinger. Reach through with your thumb and forefinger and pull the other string back through the loop. Pull both strings to tighten the knot, thus preventing the first knot from loosening. Trim the e nds of the strings.
5. Continue in this fashion until the entire loin is tied. The strings should be lied at even intervals, just snug e nough to hold the shape of the loin; they should not dig into or cut the meat.
string so it is snug against the meal.
the thumb and forefinger, pass lhe Olher end around it and cross the Slrings. loop the loose end of the string around your finger.
322
ClWYf'/:,R
J4 PROCEDURE FOR CLEANING ANI) PRESSI~G SWEETBREADS
Before fabrication. you should suhmerge the sweetbreads in cold water. COld and place them in the refrigerator overnight in order to soak out anr bIooo. Then blanch them in a coun bouillon for 20 minutes.
I . Remove the sweetbreads from Ihe
poaching liquid and allow them to cool.
2. Using your hands. pull off any sinew or membranes that may be present on the surface of the sweetbreads.
3. Wrap Ihe sweetbreads in cheesecloth.
4. Tie the ends with butcher's twine
5. Place the wrapped sweetbreads in a half hotel pan or similar container.
6. Pl:Ice another h:llf hotel pan OIl top of the sweetbreads: place a weight in the pan 10 press the sweetbreads. Pressing sweetbreads in Ibis manner improves their texture.
1f'...tL
I. Trim the large sinew and outer
2. Turn the liver over and peel the
membrane from the bottom of the Iher.
membf'Jne off with your hands.
J.
("\'!l,
323
The liver can be Cllt into thick or thin slices as needed.
T.oiIIE 14. 1 ,n., USING CoMMON Curs OF VEAl.
"""' """""
Subprimal or Fabricated Cut
IMPS
Cooking Methods
Serving Suggc~tions
Cubed veal Ground veal
1395
1396
Combination (Slew) Dry heat (broil or grill) Combination (braise)
I3lanquellc or fricassee Veal panics Sluffing: meatballs
""'breast ''' lid
Foreshank Breast
Combination (braise) Combination (braise)
Ossa buco Stufft.-d veal breast
Ii>
HOiel rack
313 306
Dry heat (broil or grill: roaS!)
Rib chops
1306
Rib ere
307
Grilled veal chop; roast veal with porcini mushrooms Grilled veal chop Braised veal chop with risotto Broiled veal rib eye with chipotle sauce; fOOSIed veal rib eye marchand de vin Braised rib eye
312
Dry heat (broil or grill) Combination (braise) Dry heat (broil or grill; roast) Combination (bra be)
011\1
Veal loin
331
Dry heat (broil or grill: roast; saute)
Loin chops
1332
Dry heat (broil or grill:
Boneless strip loin \\:31 tenderloin
344 346
Combination O)raise) Dry heat (broil or grill; roast; .s:lute) Dry heat (broil or grill: roaSt; saute)
leg
334
Top round Botlom round
349A
llind~hank
337
Swee1breads
sa~lIe)
Roasted veal loin with wild mushrooms: Sautl.'Cd veal medallions with green peppen:orn sauce; Broiled or sauteed veal chops with mushroom sauce Braised \'eal chops Iyonnaise Roo..~ted veal loin sauce poulette Grilled tenderloin; roasted tenderloin; sauteed tenderloin with garlic and herbs
Dry heat (roast: saute) Combination (stew) Dry heal (roast; saute) Dry heat (saute) Combin:uion (braise) Moist heat (simmer) Combination (braIse)
Veal scallopini Blanquette Veal n13rs;lla Saut~ scallops wilh Calvados Stuffed \'eal scallops Veal broth Ossa buco
715
Dry heat (pan'fry; saute)
Caln's' liver
704
Combination (braise) Dry heat (broil or grill: saute)
Kidneys
NA
Combination (braise)
Sauteed sweetbreads bcurrc noisctte Braised sWt.-etbrcads madeira Broiled or sautl.>e
NA
324
("\!\..
CHAFfER 14
PROCEDURE FOR CLEANING VEAL KIDNt.1'S
1. Split the kidneys lengthwise,
exposing the fat and sinew.
2. With a sharp knife, trim away the fat and sinew. TIle
kidney is now ready for cooking.
Although veal may not be as popular as beef or pork, it is versatile, elS}'1I cook and adds variety to menus. Veal is much more delicately flavored m. beef, with a finer texture and lighter color. Its flavor blends well with a \'Jt ety of sauces and other ingredienLS without overpowering them. Veal can It cooked by almost any dry-heat, moist-heat or combination cooking melOOi Veal quality varies greatly among purveyors. Purchase only from repuult companies to be sure you are receiving a consistently high-quality prOOKI Because veal carcasses are relatively small , they are sometimes purchased I primal CULS for your fUllher fabricat ion.
, qj,UES770NS FOR DISCUSSION
.N-,
I. Compare the appearance and flavor of beef and veal. 2. What are the differences between milk-fed veal and free-range veal? 3. Describe two differences between a beef carcass and a veal carcass. 4. List each veIl primal, and describe iLS location on the carcass. For each primal, identify two subprimals or fabricated cuts taken from it. 5. \'('ould it be bellcr to use a veal loin for grilling or braising? Explain your answer. 6. What are veal sweetbreads? Describe how sweetbreads should be prep.tml for cooking.
vw
~Q/pDmONAL
-
VE4L RECIPES ..n-, RECIPE 14.1
ROASTED VEAL CHOP WI11I MOREL AND GREEN B EAN RACOfff NOTE: 1bis disb awears in tbe CI:x1pI€r tlJeningpbotogropb. MANGO RFSfAURA:.VT, QuCAOO, It ChefSteven ChiappcUi Method: Roasting
Yield: 2 Servings
Veal chops, 8 oz. (250 g) each Shallots, minced OUve oil Fresh morels, sliced lengthwise White wine Veal or beef stock Hea\y cream 'I'hole butter Fresh green beans, trimmed and steamed Salt and pepper Beer·B:mered Onion Rings (Recipe 21.3) POO.(Q croquettes
2 2 1 Tbsp. 1 pI. 8 oz. 8 oz. 2 oz.
2 2 15 ml 500 ml 250 rul 250 ml 60ml
JThsp.
15 ml
4 oz. IT
120 g IT
as needed
as needed
2
2
1 Sear the veal chops on a hot grill to produce crosshatch marks. TIlen transfer the chops to a roasting pan and finish cooking to medium in a 375°F OWC) oven, approximately 10 minutes. t Saute the shallots in the olive oil until tender. Add the morels and saute umi! lightly browned. Add the wine and reduce by half. J Add the stock and reduce the sauce until it coats the back of a spoon. Stir in (he cream . .. Monte au beurre with the I tablespoon (15 milliliters) of whole buner, add the cooked beans and season with salt and pepper. S CUI each veal chop in half and arrange on a plate so thai Ihe bone slands up. Drape onion rings over the end of the veal bone. Serve with the morel and green bean ragoul and a polalo croquette. ~~ \'alues per SCT\'ins: CaJorie!l 792, Tot.a.l £a149 So Sarurated fal 19 g, Cholcsterol 243 mg, .... 1m "Il\- Total carbohyd ral(:5 36 g, Protei n 36 g, Vitllmin A 8616. Vitamin C ~1 '" OIl· _ I"", Iron 2fli
~
325
326
CIW'/7oJi
14
'"" ========= RECIPE 14. 2
ROSEMARy-ROASTED VE4L CHOPS WIlli PORCINI M USHROOMS TIlE FOUR SEASONS, NE'I' YORK, Chef Christi(lll A/bill
~'Y
Yield: 4 Se"'ings
Method: Roa5ling
Veal chops, 12-14 oz. (350-400 g) each Sa lt and pepper Fresh rosemary Flour Paprika
4
4
IT
IT 4 sprigs
4 sprigs as needed IT 4 oz.
Clarified butter \'(' hite wine
4 oz.
as needed IT 120g 120 ml
Brown \'eal stock
I pI.
450 011
Unsalted butler
2 oz.
Gog
I . Season the veal chops with salt and pepper. Press a rosemary sprig 0001 one side of each chop. Mi.\': the flOUT and paprika and dredge the ~
(both sides) in this mixture.
2. Heat the clarified butter in a
5.1 ute
pan. Place Ihe chops in the pan.
I'Olt'
mary side down. Roast in a preheated 375 c F (l90 CC) oven for 7 minul~ Turn the chops carefully to keep the rosemary sprigs intact. Roost for ~ minutes more. Remove the chops and keep warm. j.
To make the sauce, degrease the p:m and deglaze wilh the white wirK: Add the veal stock :md any juices Ihal have accumulated under the chopI Simmer to reduce to 8 ounces (250 grams). l\ lonte au beurre, strain and Jd. just (he seasonings.
V/lAL
!ierre the chops with grilled porcini mushrooms, roasted shallots and roasIed red and yellow peppers. ~:;.: ~:~::: sen'ing: Calories 1138. Total Cal 67 g, Saturated fat 31 g, Choksterol ;19 mg. carbohydratcs 9 g. Prote in 117 g, Vitamin A 50%. Iron 33%. Calcium 19%
I'-
- ======== RECIPE 14.3
VEti
KEBABS Method: Grilling
,(dd: 4 &:rvings
Onion Green pepper Boneless veal leg, cut in J-in. (2.5-em) cubes
I
Marinade: Olil'coil
'{bite wine Lemon juice Assorted fresh herbs such as parsley, ~t
l:lrragon, sage and dill, chopped and pepper
2 lb.
I kg
4 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz.
60ml
120 n!
60 ml
2 Thsp.
30 ml
TT
TT
Cut the onion and green pepper into I-inch (2.5-cemimeter) chunks. Prepare Ihe kebabs by threading the veal, onions and peppers onlO each ci four skewers, ailernaling the items. Prepare the marinade by combining the oil, wine, lemon juice, herbs, salt and pepper. ~!lrina!e the skewers, refrigerated, for 3 hours. Drain the kebabs; season with salt and pepper and grill to the desired OOneness.
1.._,,, ",I"", P"
serving: Calork'$ 6SO. Total fal 40 g. Salurated fal 8 g. Choiesierol 234 mg,
mg, TOlal carbo hydrates 6 g, PrOlein 64 g, Vitamin C 35%. Iron 20%
"V'"' = = = = = = RECIPE 14.4
ROAST
VEti
LOIN Method: Roasting
Yield: 6 6-oz. OSO-g) Servings
Boneless veal loin roast, 3 lb.
sa and pepper
I TT
I TT
Onions, chopped medium Carrots, chopped medium
2 2
2 2
Garlic cloves, chopped Fresh thyme Bar leaves )us lie
4 3 sprigs
4 3 sprigs
2
2
I pc
500011
(I.; kg)
COlllillUed
"'"
327
328 '""'-
CJWYfER J4
1. Tie the veal loin roast with butcher's twine. 2. Season the meat with salt and pepper and place it in a roasting pan. Sal·
ter the onions, carrots, garlic, thyme and bay leaves around it. j. Roast at 425°F (220°C) for approximately 45 minutes. 4. Remove the meat from the roasting pan and cut away the twine. Hold ilu warm place for service. 5. Deglaze the roasting pan with the jus lie. Strain the vegetables and liquil through a chinois into a small saucepan. Discard the solids. 6. Bring the sauce 10 a boil and skim as much fat as possible from the sur· face. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon a portion of the sauce over ~ veal; serve the remainder on the side. Approximate yalues per serving: Caklrles 526. Total {at 3] g. Satur.lted {at ]2 g, Cholestmll 2Q;l" Sodium 509 mg. Total carbohydr.llts 6 g, Prolein 54 g, Vitamin A 47%, [ron 16%
============ ~ ===========
RECIPE 14.5
SAlITEED VE4L SCALLOPS WITH CALVADOS Yield: 6 SeiVings
Method:
J\tushrooms, sliced Clarified bUller Golden Delicious apples Veal scallops, pounded, 6 oz. ( 170 g) each Salt and pepper ShallolS, minced Calvados Creme fraiche Fresh parsley, chopped
12 oz. 4 oz.
340g 120 g
3
3
6
6
IT
IT
2 2 oz. 8 oz. 1 Thsp.
Sauteing
2
60mI 250 g 15 ml
1. Saute the mushrooms in a portion of the clarified butter until dry. Re!llOl! and reseiVe. ]. Peel and core the apples. Cut each into 12 wedges. j. Saute the apple wedges in a portion of the clarified butter until slighrlr browned and tender. Remove and reserve. 4. Season the veal scallops with salt and pepper. Saute in the remaining dar· ified buner. (This may be done in two or three batches.) Remove and Itserve. 5. Add the shallolS to the pan and saute without browning. 6. Deglaze with the Calvados. Flambe the Calvados. 7. Add the sauteed mushrooms and creme fraic he. Bring to a boil and redoo until it thickens slightly. 8. Return the scallops to the pan to reheat. SeiVe each scallop with sauce, p. nished with si."'{ apple slices and chopped parsley. Approximate values per serving: Calories 650, Total rat 4 l g. Saturated ral ll g, Cholesterol m...
SodIum 710 mg, Total carOOh ydr.llcs 14 g, Prolcln
~
g, Vhamln A 30%
VFAl
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 14,6
SAlfJ'EED CALVES' LIVER WITH ONIONS Method: Sauteing
li!:ld: 10 Servings Onion, julienne
1 lb. 8 oz.
Clarified buner Salt and pepper White wine Fresh parsley, chopped Calres' liver, 6-oz. (1SO-g) slices FlOllr
30z,
700 g 90g
IT
IT
Soz.
250 ml 15 ml
I Tbsp. 10 as needed
10 as needed
J. SaUle the onions in I ounce (30 grams) of buner until golden brown, Season with salt and pepper. 1 ..I,dd the white wine, cover and braise until the onions are tender, approximately 10 minutes. Stir in the chopped parsley. j. Dredge the liver in flour seasoned with salt and pepper.
4. In a separate pan, saute the liver in the remaining clarified butter until &:me. The liver should be slightly pink in the middle. S Ser,e the liver wilh a poflion of me onions and their cooking liquid . .IfIIItlIiImIev;;due:s per 6-oz. (l80-g) S/!rving: Calories 170, ToW fat 9 So Satul":l.ted fat } g, Cho lesterol 9\1lJI. SodIum 520 mg. Total carbohydntes 16 g, Protein 30 g. Vitamin A II~ Vitamin C 5O'Ii
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 14.7
VE4L MARENGO Method: Braising
Ytrld: 6 !(K)z. (300-g) Servings
lean boneless veal, cut in 2·in. CS·cm) cubes Salt and pepper Flour for dredging the veal Vegetable oil Clarified buner Onion, sliced fine Carrot, sliced fine Garlic cloves, crushed Tomalo paste l1,m Dry white wine Brown veal stock Bouquet gami: CarJOl stick, 4 in. (to em) leek, spilt, 4-in. (to-em) piece Fresh thyme Bay leaf Mushrooms, washed and quanered TomatO, diced Pearl onions, boiled and peeled
2 lb. 8
oz.
IT as needed 1 1/2 oz.
3 oz. 12 oz. 10 oz. 2 1 oz. 2lbsp.
6 oz.
Ug IT as needed 45 g
90g 350 g 300 g 2
109 lOmi
1 pI.
170 ml 450 ml
1 sprig
1 sprig
I
I
8 oz. lib.
250 g
SOOg
24
24 Co nlinlled
'""'"
329
330 .".
CIIAP'l'-W 14
1. Season the veal cubes with salt and pepper and dredge in flour.
2. Saute the veal in I ounce (30 grams) of oil and I ounce (30 grams) of bul· ter, browning well on all sides. Remove the meat and sct aside.
3. Add 1 1/2 ounces (45 grams) of buner and saute the onions, carrots aOO garlic without coloring. Stir in the tOmato paste and rerum the veal to tIr pan. Sprinkle with the 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) flour and cook to make a blond roux.
4. Add the wine, stock and bouquet gami to the pan; bring to a boil. ea.'e1 and braise until the meal is le nder, approximately 1 1/2 hours. 5. Saute the mushrooms until dry in the remaining oil and buller witlw browning. Add the tomatoes to the pan and Saule over high heal for 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and reserve. 6. When the veal is tender, remove it from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside. Strain tile sauce. 7. Return the veal to tile sauce along with the mushrooms, tomatoes and pearl onions. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Adjust the sea· sonings. Approximate values per II}oz. (3OO.g) SCl'Ving: CaJorlC!i }40, Total fat 16 g. Saturated f:ll 6 ~ Cholesterol 125 mg. SQdium 490 mg. Total carboh}'dnlcs 15 g, Protein 32 g, Vitamin A~ Vitamin C 2;%
======== ...,. ..... ======= RECIPE 14.8
SWEETBREADS GRENOBLE Yield: 8 Servings Sweetbreads, blanched and pressed Sal! and pepper Flour Clarified buner Dry white wine Whole buner Capers Lemons, cut into segments, membranes removed Veal demi-glace
Method: Sauteing 8
8
IT
IT
as needed 2 oz. 2 oz. 4 oz. 1/2 c.
as needed 60 ml 60 m! 120 g 250 ml
3
3 60ml
2 oz.
1. Slice the sweetbreads and season with salt and pepper. Dust each piel:t
lightly with flour. 2, Heat the clarified butter in a large saute pan, add the sweetbreads and cook on each side for 1 to 2 minutes, until golden brown. Transfer the sweetbreads to a roasting pan and bake in a 375°F (I9Q°C) oven fa' ; minutes. J. Deglaze the saute pan with the wine, Add the whole butter, capers and lemon segments and cook over high heat for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the demiglace and cook until thoroughly heated, approximately 1 more minute. 4. Arrange the sweetbreads on plates and top with the sallce. Approximate values per serving: Calories 345. TObl fat 22 g. Saturated fat 13 g, Cholesterol 51lq. Sodium 461 mg, Total carbohydrate! 4 g. Proleln 33 g. Vilamin A 14%, Vlbmin C 51%
VIW.
RECiPE 14.9
OSSO Bueo Cbe! LeI(IIIlI AtkillSOIl,
WASl II:\GTQS, DC
Method: Braising
Yield: q Servings
kal ~ank. CUI in l·in. (2.5-cm) pieces \III and pepper flour Olive oil GJrlic elol'e. minced Carrol. diced u.'!llOO zest. graled \fhil~ wine Brown I'eal stock Tom310 puree GIt1Tlolada: Garlic elm·e. chopped fine lemon zest Fresh Italian parsle)" chopped
8-12 pieces
8-12 pieces
IT
IT
4 oz. as needed
120 g as needed
I
I 120 g
4 oz. I l1)Sp.
8 oz. I ql.
2 Thsp. I I Thsp. I Thsp.
15 ml 250 !TIl I It 30ml 1
15 ml 15 !TIl
the \-e:ll with salt and pepper and dredge the pieces in flour. Saute them in olive oil until brown on I)(){h sides. 1 .\dd the garlic and caITO!: and saUle briefly. j. .\dd the lemon zest, wine, stock and tomato puree. Bring to a boil and reo duce to a simmer. Br:tise on the stove lap or in a 325°F (I60°C) oven unlil the fill'll is tender but not falling from the bone, approximately 40-60 minutes. t Rt1nOl'c the cover :lIld f,,-'duce the s.luce until thick. Adjust the seasonings. S .\t 5er.ice lime. transfer Ihe meat 10 a serving planer and ladle the sauce over it Combine the gremolada ingredients and sprinkle over the meat and sauce. ,. "dson
t-:MII1\lIC vllucs pcr serving: Ca lories 3SO. Total fal 12 g, Saturated fat 2 g. Cholesterol 55 mg . .... 1'iOO IIlj(. Total carbohydl'lltf.'S 4! g. Protein 20 g, Vltamln A 80%. Vitamin C 20%. Iron 20%
RECIPE 14. 10
STUFFED BREAST OF VE4L Method: Braising
Yield: 12 s.oz. (25O·g) Servings
"lUffing:
Onion. small dice Garlic. chopped Whole bUller Ground 1'C'dl Fresh bread crumbs \utmeg Salt and pepper Egg~ . beaten \Iusltroorns. sliced
4 oz.
250 g 10 ml 30g 450 g 120 g
1T 1T
IT IT
2 lib_
2 450 g
8 oz. 2tsp. I oz. 1 lb.
CO l/lfl111 ed
•
331
332 """
CHAPTER J4
Spinach leaves, stemmed and washed
2 oz. 4 oz.
Veal breast, approx. 8 lb. (3.6 kg) Mirepoix, large dice
I lib.
White wine
Brown veal stock
Soz. 3 pI.
Garlic, chopped
1 [Sp.
Clarified butter
60g 120g I
450g 250 ml
1.5 It ;ml
Bouquet gami: Carrot stick, 4: in. 00 em)
1
Leek, split, 4-in. GO-em) piece I sprig 2
Fresh thyme
Bay leaf
1 sprig
2
1. To make the sruffing, saute the onions and garlic in the buner until lrtr def. CooL Combine with the remaining stuffing ingredients and mix wei
2. Saute the mushrooms in I ounce (30 grams) of the clarified butter and ccd.
J. Blanch the spinach and cool. 4. Bone the veal breast. Reserve the bones. 5. Butterfly the veal breast and open it inla a large rectangular shape. 6. Spread the sruffing over the breast; leave a I-inch (2.5-<:enlimcter) 1xrCu
around the edges. 7. Open the spinach leaves and carefully lay them on top of the ~ Sprinkle the mushrooms on top of the spinach leaves. 8. Ro ll the breast up in a cylindrical shape so that the spinach lea\'es faml spiral in the center. Tie with butcher'S [Wine. 9. Brown the breast in the remaining clarified butter. 10. Remove the breast and pour off all but 1 ounce (30 grams) of the grea Add the mirepoix to the pan and saute. 11. Add the reserved veal bones and place the veal breast on top of the I:xm 12. Add the wine, stock, garlic and bouquet garni. 13. Cover and braise the breast until tender, approximately 2 1/2 houlS. 14. Remove the breast from the pan and remove the twine. Skim any fat lim the sauce. 15. Reduce the sauce and, if desired, thicken it slightly with a smail alTlClll! of roux or beurre manic. Strain it through a fine chinois and adju51 dr seasonings. 16. Slice the veal breast and serve with the sauce. Approxim;ue values per serving: Calories 750, Tocal {at 30 g, Salurated fal t 1 g, Cholesterol ~;11 SOdium 660 mg, Total carbohydrates 11 g, Prolein t09 g. Vllllmin A I ~ Iron 3(.I;t
============ ~ =========== I RECIPE 14. 11
VEAL MARsALt Method: Sauteing
Yield: 6 Servings Veal scallops, pounded, 3 oz. (90 g) each Salt and pepper Flour Clarified butter Olive o il
12
12
IT approx. 2 oz. 2 oz.
IT approx. ~g
2 oz.
60g 60g
''''' ....,.. 333 Dry marsala
Brown veal stock Whole butter
6 oz. 4 oz.
180 ml 120 ml
I 1/2 oz.
45 g
L Season the scallops with sail and pepper. Dredge in flour and saute the SCIJlops in a mixture of the clarified bUller and oil, a few at a time, umil aU are cooked. 1 Remol'e the scallops and set aside. Degrease the pan and deglaze with marsala. Add the stock and reduce until it begins to thicken. l Rerum the scallops to the sauce to reheat. Remove the scallops to plates or 3 serving platter. .. Reduce the sauce until il becomes syrupy; adjust the seasonings. Monte au beurre and spoon me sauce over the veal. ~IC
I':Ilues per 7-oz. (2\3·g) serving: CaJorit:$ 430, TOtal fal 28 g, SalUraled fat ]2 g, Cho-
IIIInII IM mg, Sodium 650 mg, Total carbohydrates 9 g, PTOIein 36 g, Vllamin A 15%
=========== ~ ============= RECIPE 14. 12
VEtIL FRiCASSEE Yltkl: 168-oz. (250-g) Servings
\eal stew meat, cut in 2-in. (5-cm) cubes »II and white pepper
Method : Stewing 8 lb. IT
Blmer Onion, small dice Garlic, chopped
6 oz.
~O"'
6 oz.
White wine While stock Bouquet gami: Carrot stick, 4 in. 00 em) Leek, split, 4-in. OO-cm) piece Fresh thyme Bay leaf Heavy cream, hot
3.5 kg IT
4 oz.
180 g 350 g 5 ml 180 g 120 ml
3 q..
31t
1 sprig 1
1 sprig 1
I pI.
450 ml
12 oz. I LSp.
L Season the veal with salt and pepper and saute in the butter without twwning, approximately 2 minutes. t Add the onions and garlic and saute without coloring, approximately 2 minutes. l Add the 110ur and cook 10 make a blond raux, approximately 3 minlllp.s . .. Add the white wine and white stock, stir well to remove any lumps of roux and bring to a boil. Add the bouquet gami, cover and braise until the veal is tender, approximately 30 minutes. ,. Remove the veal from the sauce and reserve. Strain the sauce through a fme chinois and retum it to the pan. Degrease the sauce. , Add the heavy cream to the sauce. Reduce slightly to thicken if necessary. Return the veal to the sauce and adjust [he seasonings. 7. :.erve the fricassee with rice pilaf. I.,]ues per s.oz.. (250-g) serving: Calories 340, Toui fat 18 g, Saturated [al 8 g. Cho1IIroI 165 mg, Sodium 540 mg. TOIaI carbohydr.ues 6 g, Protein 40 g, Viiamin A ](M
nlT1nn
/
/
15
•
•
'.
• •
• BIS/IOP's Neslallrfml, ~'tlIlCOUt'er, 8. C.
Painting by Ale.WI",lrl" Dlkeakus, tal/rollt'er, B.C.
=== ~, == After studying this chapter, you will be able to: ("\!\"
identify the primal, subprimaJ and fabricated cuts of lamb
<"'\!\.
perform basic butchering procedures
<"'\!\..
apply appropriate cooking methods to several common
C::::><___ amb is the meal ojsheep slaughtered when they arekss than aile year old. Meat from sheep slaughtered after that age is called mutton. Spring lamb ;S yo'mg lamb that has 1I0t been jedgrrm or graills. Because lamb is slaughtered at an early age, it is quite tender and cml be prepared by almost any cookil1g method. Lamb has a strollg and distinctive flavor. It goes well with boIdIj flavored sauces and accompaniments.
cuts of lamb ~ == LttPERlALlST, COLONIAllST AND liEJIOLlll'lONARY SHEEP
Columbus brought sheep 10 the New World OIl his second \'Q)'age in 1493. The Spanish soon established breeding centers in the Caribbean Islands, then in Mexico and Panama. In 1565, men and livestock, induding sheEp, settled in Sl Augustine, Floritb.. During the 16th and 17th centuries, the Spanish established missions in Texas, New
Mexico, Ariwna and california in order to bridge their Florida and Mexico sett1emEnts. They brought sheep with them as an easily cared-for soma! of food and wool. Sheep raising was not as easily established in the British Colonies along the eastern seaboard. Many of the sheep brought with the early colonists 'I.-ere consumed for food during the harsh winters. More and more sheep had to be imported in order to satisfy the colonists' competing demands for
focxl and cloihing, By ihe mid-17ih cen1ury, hOYo'e'.er, sheep \\'ere nourishing in the ~ England colonies and supplying an abundance of meat and wool. In an attempt to maintain control of the \\"000 trade, the ~ritish restricted the export of sheep to the American colonies and forbade the import of colonial wool and \\'OOlellS. Retaliating against these restricth-e trade practiceS, ihe colonists passed la~ forbidding the use of sheep for focxl in order 10 preserve the flocks for wool. This proteclonist scheme helped assure a strollg supply of materials for the domestic woolen industry that flourished after ihe Re'o'Olutionary War.
PRIMAL AND SUBPRIMAL
Curs OF LAMB
oM
After the young sheep is slaughtered, it is usually reduced to the primal cw: shoulder, br~ast, rack, loin and leg. Like some veal prima Is, lamb primals are cr~t seclion~ and contain both bilateral halves (for example, the primal leg con tams both hmd legs). Lamb primals are not classified into a forequarter ani hindquarter like beef, or a foresaddle and hindsaddle like veal. Figure 15.1 shows the relationship between the lamb's bone structure aM the primal cuts. As with all meaLS, it is important to know the location of Ixm wh~n cuttin~ or, w~rkin~ ~vith lamb:. This makes meat fabrication and carving easier and aids m Idenufymg CULS. Figure 15.2 shows the primal cuts of lanD and ,heir location on the carcass. A lamb carcass generally weighs between 4) and 75 pounds (20 to 35 kg).
Shoulder The primal lamb shoulder is a relatively large cut accounting for 36% of tIr carcass weight. The lamb shoulder contains four rib bones and the arm, bla&: a~d neck bones as well as many small, tough muscles whose grains tral'el il different directions, All these bones and muscle groups make it nearly impossible to cook aM carve a whole shoulder, Although the shoulder may be cut into chops, (I boned and then roasted or braised, with or without SlUffing, it is more COOlmanly diced for stew or ground for patties,
Breast The primal lamb breast contains the breast and foreshank portiOns of me car· casso :rogeth~r they account for approximately 1 of the carcass weight aM contam {he nb, breast and shank bones. The primal breast is located beneaih the primal rack and contains the rib tips, which are cut off to produce the rad. When separated from the rest of the breast, these small ribs are called ikmu ribs and can be substituted for pork ribs where desired. Although the breast is not used extensively in food service operations. t can be stuffed and braised, either bone-in or boneless. Lamb foreshanks 2lt quite meaty and may be braised and served as an entree, used for brOlhs. (I ground.
WIB
T2il Bones (tIIIda! 1'UItbrae)
Stifle join!
""' ...
...'" "'-
(s:atrJll~)
(femur)
0Iine 8oR\'$ !bOOIr:I Ii (tIIical, Ihol'ldc, .... l1li samllelttbne)
_....
,--
(spiDous proasstS)
-(saemum)
"'" '""
(Ibonck 'IeIIebnt)
(m,
...... """" ---!,
""" ... --+-
("""" ""'...... ~~ The Skeletal Structure 0/a lomb
"'.
The Primal Cuts o/lomb
:mJ
fort ShW Bones
8real: JoiDI
Meraarp:iI ~
~ 8onI's
u..-er fort
J SIank Boots
"""
337
338
CIW'/FJ/ 15
Rack The primal lamb rack is also known as the hotel rack. It is located between the primal shoulder and loin. Containing eight ribs and
Frenc/Jet/ Ulmb Rack
Frenc h-a me/lxxl of Irlmmillg meAls or ill(n· tit/llflf chop.r of 111('(1/, especiIllty /mllb, ill U"bich the /:\"ce£f fat if CIII aii'd)' W(//ill/Jlbe Jtl't' mllscle illtncli flf! meal (tilt' ct)11II«/il'f! fissile (Ire re1110/1('(1 from
the rib bent.
ulmb loin Triml/led
lil/llb Leg
portions of the backbone, it accounts for approximately 8% of the carcass weight. The rack is valued for its tender rib eye muscle. The hotel rack is usu:llly split in half and trimmed SO lhal each set of ribs can be easily cut into chops. TIle split racks can then be grilled, broiled or roasted as r.lcks or cui into single or double rib chops before cooking.
lomb Rirl
Loin The loin is located between the primal rib and leg. It contains rib number 13 and portions of tbe backbone as well as tbe loin eye muscle, tenderloin ani. flank. It accounts for approximately 13% of tbe carcass weigbt. Except for tbe flank, the loin meat is very tender and is invariably ccdea using a dry-heat method such as broiling, grilling or roasting. The loin nul" Ik' boned to produce boneless roasts or chops or cut into chops with the lox in. The loin eye may be removed and cut into medallions or noisenes.
Leg The primal leg is a large section accounting for approximately 34% of the ar· cass weight. It is the posterior portion of the C'arcass, separated from the kC by a straight cut anterior to the hip bone cartilage. As with veal. the CUI Ii meat that would be the sirloin on a beef carcass is separated from th! lamb loin by this cut and lX-'{:omes part of the primal leg. The lad leg contains several bones: the backbone, tail, hip, aitch, round am shank bones. The primaJJeg is rarely used as is. t.'iore often , it is split into twO k'g! and partially or fully boned. Lamb legs are quite tender-the sirloineni more so than the shank end-and are well suited to a variety of ccd:. ing methods. A bone-in leg is often roasted for buffet service oc 1m", • with vegetables or beans for a hearty dish. Steaks can also be cut fromth! bone-in leg, with the sirloin end producing the most tender cuts. A lxft. less leg can be tied and roasted, with or without stuffing, or trimmed and CIt into scallops. TIle shank end can be diced for stew or ground for patties. Because lamb carcasses are so eaSily handled, purveyors often seU tbed whole or cut in a variety of ways 10 better meet their customers' needs. As 11\'1 as whole carcass, prim:.l and fabricated cuts, lamb can be purchased in theMlowing forms:
Boiled, NoIlL'l1 lIllt/ Tied U>g ofllUnb
•
Foresaddle; The anterior portion of the carcass :Lfter it is severed from the hindsadd!e by u cut following the naturdl ClU"\'aturc between the 12th and 13th ribs. It contains the primal shoulder, breast and foreshank and rack.
•
Hilldsaddle: TIle posterior portion of the carcass aftcr it is scvered from the foresaddle. 11 contains the primal loin and leg together with the kidneys.
WIB
""'-
339
• Back The trimmed rack and loin sections in one piece. The back is particularly useful when producing large quantities of lamb chops. Brocelet The primal hotel rack with the connecting breast secrions.
PROCEDURES .n-, unique among the common meal animals in that it is small enough to be handled easily in its carcass form. Thus, food service operations sometimes ~ lamb whole and fabricate the desired cu(S themselves. This is practical if me operation has the necessa!)' employee skills, equipment and storage space. 35 well as a need for all the v,trious cu(s and trimmings that butchering I ,-hole carcass produces. A few imponant lamb fabrication and butchering tdmiques follow.
PmoURE FOR FRfu'CIlING A RACK OF LAMB
I. Wtth a meat saw, trim the ribs to
approximately 3 inches (7.5 rentimeters), measuring from the rib eye on each side of the rack.
4. By pulling and cutting along the narurnl seam, remove the thick byers of fat and the meat between them from the rack's surface.
2. Turn the rack over and cut down both sides of the feather bones, completely separating the meat from the bone.
3. Turn the rack back over. Using a meat saw, cut between the ribs and the chine bone at a 45-degree angle, exposing the lean meat between the ribs and the vertebral junctllres.
5. Make an even cut through the fat, perpendicular 10 the ribs, 1 inch (25 centimeters) from the rib eye. Trim away all meat and fat from the rib ends. The ribs should be completely clean.
6: Trim away Ihe fat covering. Leave either a thin layer 10 protect the meat during cooking or trim the fat away completely to produce a vel)' lean rack. 111e rack can also be cut into chops.
340 '"""
CIIAPl'ER 15
PROCEDURE FOR TRIMMING AND BONING A LAMB LEG FOR ROASTh'G OR GRILLING
1. With the tip of the knife, trim around the pelvic bone; stay close 10 the bone to avoid wasting any meal. Cut the sinew inside the socket and remove the bone.
2. Trim away most of the exterior fal.
3. CUI off the shank portion completely and scrape the bone
4. Fold the flap of the sirloin ol'er I)l top of the ball of the leg bone m!
clean. This makes a handle to
tie w ith butcher's twine. This
hold while carving the lamb.
helps the leg cook evenly.
PROCEDURE FOR BoXING A LAMB loIN FOR ROASTh'G
1. Stan with a trimmed lamb loin (double). With the skin side up, trim the !.hin layer of connective
tissue called the fell from the loin's surface.
2. Turn the loin over and trim Ihef~ from around the tenderloins.
WIB
J Swting in the middle of the backbone, cut between the lendcrloin and the venebrae, Il'plr:lting them but leaving the tenderloin al1:lched to the fl:lnk. Continue until you reach the end rJ the \"el1.ebrae. Repeat on the IXher side.
, Tum the loins over and trim the surfJct fat 10 1/4 inch (6 millimelers).
'"""
341
4. Slide the knife U1UJI::I the vertebrae :lnd rib and cut back all the way to the backbone, separating (he eye muscle from the vertebrae.
5. Pull the backbone out with your
7. Roll the flank flaps under from each side.
8. Tie the roast with butcher's twine
hands, keeping Ihe loins intact.
al
even intervals.
I'IixIDuRE FOR CurrlNG LAMB NOiShTIES FROM A loiN
1, Remo-.·e the loin eye muscle by cUlling down along !he backoone and along the vertebrae. Trim the eye mlbCle. leaving a thin layer of fat if desired.
2. Cut the eye meat into noisel1es of the desired thickness.
342 "".
CHAPl1!R 15
TABLE 15 . 1 h'> US L~G COMMON ClITS OF IAMB Primal
SubprimaJ or Fabricated Cut
Shoulder
Shoulder lamb chop
IMPS Cooking Methods
Serving S~ggest ions
lamb stew; lamb curl)'
Ground lamb
1207 DI)' heal (broil or grill) 1295 Combination (Stew) 1296 Dry heat (broil or grill; saute)
Breast
Breast
209
Combination (braise)
Lamb bre:lSl stuffed with m\l.'ihrcar.-
Hotel Rack
Lamb rack
204
Dry heat (broil or grill; roast; saute) RO:lst rack of lamb with garlic and rosemary
Frenched lamb r:lck
204C Dry he:n (broil or grill; roaSt; same) Broiled lamb wilh mUStard and
Diced b mb
Broiled or grilled lamb chops
Patties
hazelnut crust loin
Lamb loin trimmed
232
l)ry hea t (broil or grill; ro:lSl; Sa Ute) Noisenes of iamb with roaSled
Loin chops
1232
Dry heat (broil or grill; saute)
garl ic sauce
leg
233A Dry heal (broil or grill: roast) Boned rolled lied leg of lamb 233B DI)' heat (roast)
lamb leg
Broiled Join chops with hero buUd Kebabs; roast leg of lamb
Roast leg of lamb
if?oNCLUSION Even though I:tmb accounts for a small percentage of the meat consumed I this country, many people who do not prepue Iamb al home will order i' a restaurant. Because lamb is slaughtered under the age of one year, its met is tender and it can be prepared by almost any cooking method. Its stroog.1i;. tina ive fla vor :llIows you to offer bold, robust sauces and accompa~ that might mask the flavors of other meats.
, ~UE5170NS FOR DISCUSSION I. Describe the basic differences between a lamb carcass and :t beef carrus 2. List each lamb primal, and describe its location on the carcass. Identify ~tI subprimals or fabricated cuts t:lken from each primal. 3. Which cooking methods are most appropriate for a breast of lamb? E~pbil your answer. 4. Describe the procedure for preparing a frenched rack of lamb from a primal hotelmck. 5. What is the best way to purchase lamb for a food service oper:.nion that cuts its own meal and uses large quantities of lamb chops? E.xplain your answer.
LWB
RECIPE 15.1
ROAST RACK OF LAMB WITH MINT AND CELERIAC SAUCE NOTE: 1bit dish appears ill/be OxIpIer ~Ii"g pboIograpb. BISIIOP'S RESTAURANT, VA....COU\'F,R, Be ClJejs Michael Allemeicr and DellI/is Green
field: 4 Servings
l\lethod: Roasting
1.1mb r:Ick. cleaned and frenched 2 lb. (! kg) each fn:'!ih white bread cubes, cruStS removed F~ minI. chopped fresh parsley, chopped F~h chi\'es, chopped
2
2
1 pI.
500 ml
Dljon mustard
2 Th5p. 2 Th5p. 2 Thsp. 2 11)5p.
30 ml 30 m! 30ml 30 Illi
5311 and pepper
IT
IT
as necd<..-xI
as needed
as needed 2
as needed 2
P\xatQ and
Celeriac Puree
(recipe follows) Mint and Celeriac Sauce (recipe follows)
FreY! mint sprigs
1 Se:Ison !he lamb racks with Salt and pepper and sear On both sides.
J Tralbfer the lamb 10 a roasting pan and roast in a 400°F (200CC) oven until medium r:lre, approximately 1)-20 minutes.
J Meanwhile,
combine the bread crumbs and the herbs in a food processor and process umil well blended. Set aside . ... Remove the lamb from the roasling pan and smear with the mllstard. Coal the r:Icks with the bread cnlnlh mixtu re. S Allow the lamb to rest for 10 rninLUes before Cllrving. , Scr\·e with Potato and Celeriac Puree and Mint and Celeriac Sauce. Garnish with fresh mint. JAlr01.mII~ \':lIllI'S per .'ol'rVing: Calories 1240, To tal fat 6-l g, S;uuralcd fat 22 g, Cho lt.'!Iteroi 400 ... 50dIum 880 mg. Toml carbo hydrates <10 ~. Protein 126 g. Iron 70%
POTATO AND CELERIAC PUREE ritld: 8 SaYings
PCKaloes. peeled and cut into pieces CcIeri.1C (celery root). peeled and cut into I-inch (2.5-cm)
pieces Heal)' cream \fhole bUller SJlt and pepper
lIb. 8 oz.
750 g
8 oz. 8 oz. 211)sp.
250 g
30 ml
IT
IT
250 rnl
COl/linlled
•
343
-------344
~.
-- - --
CIIAFll!R 15 1. Combine the potatoes and celeriac in a saucepan and cover with water
Bring to a boil, reduce the heal. and simmer umil tender, approximately}J minutes.
2. Strain. i\hsh the potatoes and celeriac using a food mill or POIa!O ricer
3. Heat the cream and the butter just to a boiL Add to the hot potato mixtUrf Using an e lectric mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whip the pulie
until fluffy. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Approximate values per okoz. (120-g) sefVlIIg' Calories 225, Total fat 14 g, Saturated fill 9 So C.
leslf.:1"01 50 mg, Sodi um 12; mg, TOlal carbo hrdralcs 22 g. Protein 3 g, VUamln A I~ I'llali C 2'"
MINT AND CELERIAC SAUCE Yield: 1 pint (;00 ml) Whole butter
2 11)5p.
Shallots, cbopped fine Garlic, minced
4 oz. 2 cloves
Celeriac (cele!)' root), peeled and chopped Red wine vinegar
4 oz.
120g
Port
2 oz. 4 oz.
Fresh mint, chopped Demi-glace
1/2 cup I pt.
30 ml 120 m! 120 m!
30 ml 120 g
2 cloves
500 m!
1. Melt the butter in a sauce pan. Add the shallots, garlic and celeriac aOO
saute untiltcnder, but not brown. 2. Add the vinegar and reduce au sec. 3. Add the port and mini and reduce by half.
4, Add the demi-g[ace and simmer for 30 minutes. StI
RECIPE 15.2
RACK OF LAMB WITH MUSTARD AND HAzELNUTS Method: Roasting
Yield: '" Servings Lamb racks, trenched, ? lb. to 2 lb. 8 oz. (,9 to 1.1 kg) each
Salt and pepper Olive oil Dijon mustard Fresh bread cnllnbs
Hazelnuts, chopped fine Molasses
2
2
'IT
'IT
2 oz. 2 oz. I oz. 2 oz. I oz.
60 ml
60g 109
60g 30 g
1. Season the racks with salt and pepper and brown well in the oli\"e oil. 2. Spread the mUStard over the surface of the racks.
WfB
Combine the bread crumbs, nuts and molasses and press this mixture into the mustard to form a cmst. Roas! the racks at 375°F (I90°C) until medium rare, approximately 30 min-
.a.lIow the racks to rest 15 minutes. Carve into chops and serve with marcband de vio sauce made with lamb jus lie (Recipe 10.12). 1'aIues per 5efVing: Calories 700, Total fat -13 g, Saturated fat 10 g. Cho Ie5I~l 195 mg, III&< Total carbohydratcs 14 g. Prote in 64 g. Iron 35%
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 15.3
SHISH KEBAB Yield: 10 Servings
Method: Grilling or Broiling
~larinade:
Onion, small dice
Garlic, chopped
12 oz. l oz.
4 oz. 21bs.
lemon juice
Salt
Pepper Fresh oregano, chopped O]i\'c oil
Cumin, ground Coriander, ground
I LSp. 2 LSp. Boz. 2 LSr. I fup. 2 LSp.
Fresh mint, chopped lamb leg or shoulder, boneless, trimmed and cut in 2-in. OS-em) cubes 51b.
350 g 30 g 120 ml 30 ml 5 ml 10 ml 250 ml 10 ml 15 ml IOml 2.2 kg
L Combine the marinade ingredients and add the lamb. Marinate for 2 hours. 1 Place 3-4 cubes of lamb on each of ten skewers. Grill or broil to the desired doneness. Serve with rice pilaf. .IjIpoXlllUiC \I;Ilu~ per 7.5o()z. (227-g) scrving: Calorlcs 410, TOlaJ fat 17 g, Saturated fat 6 g, Cho~ 2Q5 mg, SodIum 170 mg, TOla l carbohrdralcs 0 g, Protein 64 g, Iron 30%
~ ============= RECIPE 15.4
LAMB PATfIES WITH MINT MClhod: Grilling or Broiling
Yield: 6 Servings
Ground lamb Fresh bread crumbs Egg, be:\ten Onion, minced Garlic cloves, crushed Fresh mint, chopped Salt and pepper
1 lb. 12 oz. 2 oz.
SOOg 60g
I
I
3 oz. 2 3 Thsp.
90g
IT
IT
2
45 ml
Contil/lI ed
'""'"
345
346 ,"""
CIMPl!W 15
1. Place the lamb in a bowl and mix in the bread crumbs, egg, onion. garli:
and mint. Add salt and pepper 10 taste and mix well. Form the mixture iIto six panies. 2. Grill or broil the patties until browned on both sides. Garnish with mint if desired.
elIn
Approxim:l!e 1'21ues per &oz. 072-g) serving: CaIone!! 430. Tow (31 18 g. Saturated f.u II g. a. lesterol 16; mg, Sodium 590 mg. Tow carbohr dralC$ 9 g, Protein ]5 g, Iron 2ffiII
~r;-.
===========
RECIPE 15.5
BROILED
lAMB
KIDNEYS Method: Broiling
Yield: 10 Servings
Lamb kidneys Bacon fat
20
20
2 oz.
60g
Salt and pepper
IT
IT
Grain mustard
16oz.
480 g
I . Split the lamb kidneys lengthwise; remove the fat and grisile. 2. Arrange the kidney hah'es on skewers, four halves per skewer. 3. Brush Ihe kidneys with bacon fat, season with salt and pepper and Iri turning once halfway through cooking, until well browned but still pink iI
the center, approximately 6--8 minutes. 4. Serve four halves per portion with I 1/2 ounces (45 grams) of grain
Illl.i.~
tard each. Approxim;lle values per 7-oz. (222.g) scrving: Calories 320. Total fat 15 g, Saturated fat 4.) So a. lesterol 965 mg. Sodium 1080 mg. TUbl carbohydrates 4 g. Protein 43 g. Vibmin A 2~ \1taIiI C 35%. Iron 120%
====== ,-.p-, ====== RECIPE 15.6
ROAST LEe OF LAMB WITH JAlAPENO VINCENT ON CAMELBACK, PUOE.<;lX, KI.. Coo/Vincent Guerllb(1lI11
Yield: 11. 5- to 6-oz. (150- to lMO-g) servings Leg of lamb, 6-8 lb. (2.7-3.6 kg) Jalapeno peppers Olive oil Dixon (or Chimayo) chile powder Salt and pepper Garlic heads Fresh thyme Fresh rosemary Water Chicken glaze
\I
Method: Roasting
1
1
6
6
1 TI:>sp.
15 ml 30ml
2 loop.
IT 12 I sprig I sprig 8 oz. 2 oz.
IT 12 1 sprig 1 sprig
250 ml
60g
fAliB
Trim the leg, removing most of the fat; lea\'c the bone intact. Roast the jaJapei'los over an open flame. \'(' hen they are blackened, remove the skin and CUI each pepper in half. Make 12 slilS in the la:nb and slide Oflf' half jalapeno pepper into each sHt. Brush the lamb with olive oil and dust wilh the Dixon or Qlimayo chile
powder, salt and pepper. Saute the lamb over a high flame or grill, turning frequently. 'rhen the lamb is golden in color, transfer it to a roasting )Xln . Surround
the lamb with the garlic heads, thyme and rosemary. Roast at 400°F (200°C) for 45 minutes, turning the leg three or four times. \X' hen the lamb is done,
remove it and the garlic from the pan and sct aside. , To make the sallce, add the water and chicken gl:lze to the pan and bring 10 a boil. Simmer 5 minutes and strain. %Sen'c each lamb portion with one head of garlic. (Cut off the botlom of each garlic head before serving,) Top each serving with I tablespoon (IS millUiters) of sauce . .IjIp\lIirm1C values per )1.07.. (mg) Sl.'TVing, Catories 540. Total fat 26 g. Saturated fat 9 g, CbQ. """' 145 mg. Sodium 530 mg. Total carbohydn{cs I g. Pro{eln 75 g, lroll 35%
RECIPE 15.7
STUFFED LEe OF LAMB Ylfld: 12 5-
(0
6-oz. (150- to ISO-g) Servings
Il3con. fine dice Fennel, fine dice Garlic doves. chopped fine 'r'dd mushrooms such as shiitake, chantercl1es or porcini, chopped Parsir)', chopped fresh (hyme Fresh rosemary Sail and pepper Dry white wine fresh bread tnlmbs I£g oIl'mb 6-S lb. (2.7-3.6 kg) MirepoL'I:
30z. I bulb 2 12 oz. 2 Thsp. 1/2 (Sp . 1/2 (Sp . IT 8 oz. 3 oz. I lib.
1\'lethOO: Roasting
90g 1 bulb 2
340g 30 ml 2 ml 2 ml 'IT 2;0 ml
90g I
;oo g
I. To Iltlke the stuffing, saute the bacon until crisp. Add the fennel and saute I~tly .
1 Add the gariic and saute. Add the mushrooms, parsley, thyme, rosemary, 53!l and pepper and saule for an additional 2 minutes. J, DegJaze with white wine and reduce by three quarters. Remove from Ihe heal. • Stir in the bread cmmbs. S Completely bone out the leg, following the natural seams in the meat. CUI off the shank meat for use in another recipe. Fill the cavity left by the bone ",ith stuffing. COl/filmed
.
347
348 ......
CIW'l7lR 15
6. Season the lamb with salt and pepper. Close the leg around the
stu~
and seal the opening by tying with butcher'S twine. 7. Place the stuffed leg in a roasting p.m on a bed of mirepoix. 8. Roast at 37;oF 090°C) until medium rare, approximately I hour. Sen'e 111 jus or with a pan gravy. Approxilllltc \";Ilues per l().oz. (332-g) 5<.'"1\·ing, CaloriC!! 540. Total fat 20 g. Saluraled fat ~, 0.[j,'Slerol 230 mg. Sodiulll 630 mg. Total carbohydrales [2 g. Protein 78 g. Iron 3)%
,.... ======= RECI PE 15.8
GRILLED RACK OF WIB
wlm ROSEMARY AND SPICY B EU P EPPER J EUY VlNCENT ON CAMELBACK,
PUot~IX,
AZ
CheJ l'illcell1 Gueritbault Method: Grilling
Yield: 8 Servings ~
Red bell peppers Yellow bell peppers Red Serrano chiles Sugar lamb racks, frenched , 9 oz. (270 g) each Salt and pepper Dried rosemary sprigs·
2 2 8 S oz.
2 2
8
250 g
4
4
IT
IT
8
8
1. To make the pepper jelly, julienne the peppers and chiles. Mi.... with
tIr
sugar and refrigerate overnight. 2. At sen'ice time, cook the pepper mixture (along with the liquid fontrd while refrigerated) over low he.1I for approximately 10- 15 minutes. (.cd and keep the pepper jelly at room temperature. 3. Cut each lamb rack in half. Season with salt and pepper. 4. Grill the lamb over mesquite to the desired temperature. 5. Cut the racks il1(o chops and plate the lamb and pepper jelly. Garnish en plate with a dried rosemary sprig and name. When the rosemary naoo blow it aLIt at once and senre immediately so that the essence of rosem:i!! is fresh. "To dry rosemary, place fresh rosemary sprigs in a 3500 F (tSO°C) oven forapproximately 10 minutes. Approximate 1'1I1ues per 9-0~. (Z7>-g) serving: Calo ries 430. Total f lit 17 g. Saluraled fat 6 g. 0.ksterol 110 mg. Sodium 400 mg, Total carbohrdrale$ 54 g. Prole in 35 8, Vitamin A 4~ ' "1IIIIiI C 200%. Iron 20%
WIB
~ =============
RECIPE 1; .9
GRIUED LAMB CHOPS Willi SIlIOKED CORN AND WIW MUSHROOM POLENTA AND P UllfPKINSEED CREAII! TIlE BOUillERS RESORT, G\RmtF.:E, AZ
CheJJarett Forsberg Method: Grilling
'ield: 4 SerYings Olireoil
I Thsp.
Assoned fresh mu~hrooms sllch as chamerelle, morel, shiitake, and so I pt. on, Cllt into equal-sized pieces Assoned baby braising greens such as red chard, kale, spinach, frisee, 1 1/2 pt. and so on Kosher salt Freshly ground pepper Double CUI lamb chops ~moked Corn Polenta (recipe follows)
15 ml 500 !TIl
750 m]
IT IT
IT IT
8
8 ;00 ml
1 pI.
Pumpkinseed Cream (recipe foll ows)
J. Prep:lre a mesquite or charco.11 grill . Heat olive oil in a large saUle pan, add
the mushrooms and cook until tender approximatel}' 15 minutes. Add (he and wilt briefly. Season with salt and pepper. l Season the lamb chops with 5.111 and pepper. Grill 10 desired temperature; gretnS
keep w:mn. j
Spoon 112 cup 025 milliliters) of the polenta onto each plate and top with one quarter of the mushroom mixture. Arrdnge two chops on the polenta and drizzle with pumpkinseed cream.
~tc
\'alues per serving: Calo ries 820. Total fat 37 g. Saturated fat 13 g, Cholesterol 175 Illg,
SiIIIam 630 mg, Total carboh )"drnles 64 g. Protein 58 g, Vitamin A 20%, Iron 40%
SMOKED CORN POLENTA '1eld: I 1/2 pints (750 Ill!) Sweet corn
4 ears
Oticken stock
20 oz.
StIner Olire oil ~ite onion, diced Garlic cloves, minced White wine Yellow cornmeal Heary cream
I Thsp. I Thsp. I small
Kosher salt freshly ground black pepper
2 2 oz. I pt. 2 oz. IT IT
4 ears 600ml 30 ml 30 ml 1 small 2
60 ml 500 ml 60ml IT IT
I. lightly smoke the ea rs of corn and remove the kernels. COl/fill llcd
'"""-
349
350 ,......
CJW'lFR 15
2. Pour 4 ounces (120 milliliters) of chicken stock into a blender. Add half Ii the corn kernels and puree. Pass the puree through a coarse strainer, j. Heat bUller and oil in a large, heavy-bottomed sauce pot. Add the onionsaOO garlic and saute llnliltcnder. Add Ihe white wine and stir well ; reduce au 5et 4. Add the remaining chicken stock, the corn puree and Ihe remaining \\ix* com kernels. Bring 10 a boil. 5. Slowly whisk in the cornmeal. Cook for 10 minutes over medium heal, SlR"' ring constantly. 6. Add the heavy cream and cook :In additional 5 minutes. Season with sal and pepper. Approximale values per l
PUMPKINSEED CREAM Yield: 8 oz. (250 ml) Olive oil Garlic, minced
Pumpkinseeds, roasted and ground Anaheim chile, roasted, peeled seeded, finely chopped Cumin, freshly toasted and ground Creme Fraiche Salt and pepper
2 tsp. I tsp. 1/4 cup
10 ml 5ml
60 ml
I
112 !Sp. 6 oz.
3 1111 180 g
IT
IT
1. Heat the olive oil in a small skillet and saute (he garlic. 2. Tmn.sfer tilt: garlk Iu a mixing bowl; add the pumpkinseeds,
cumin. t.'lix well. 3. Fold in the creme fraiche and season to taste with
S<111
ch~e
m!
and pepper.
Approximate valllt3 per 1/2-oz. (l5-g) scI"mg: Calories 53. Tow fal 5 g. Salurated fat ? g, (lda. terel 8 mg. Sodium 38 mg. Tow carbClh)"dnues I g. Protm I g
======== ~ ======= RECIPE 15.10
HONEy-MUSTARD DENVER RIBS Y;eld, 14 lb. (6.2 kg)
lamb ribs, trimmed Salt Pepper Honey Dijon mustard Lemon juice 1. 2. 3. 4.
Method: Roasting 20 lb.
9 kg
4 oz.
120 g 60 g
2 oz. 41b. Jib. I pI.
1.8 kg
1.4 kg 4; 0 ml
Rub the ribs with salt and pepper. Pl:tce the ribs on a rack and roast at 375°F 09Q°C) for 30 minutes. Combine the honey, mustard and lemon juice. Baste the ribs generously with the honey-mustard mixture. Roasl an acklitional 30 minutes, basling every 10 minutes.
Approximate '
lroo r
WIB
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 15.11
SAlIrEED WIB LOIN
11111 STUFFED ROSTI POTATOES AND CHERRY CONFIT Chef Leltllld Atkinson,
Yield: 6 5-oz.
WAS/u:\GTO~, DC
o50-g) Servings
Idaho potatoes, large PlmlCSan, grated Slit and pepper O:nified butter Gool cheese Fresh rosemary, chopped Fresh chives, chopped Lamb. eye of loin. trimmed, 21b. 4 oz. (1 kg) Clarified bUller Poo lamb jus lie \\hole buner Cherry Confit (Recipe 25.13)
Method: Sauteing
2
6 oz.
2 150 g 1T as needed 180 g
liSp. IISp.
5 ml 5 ml
2 oz.
60ml 120 rul 350 ml 30 g
5 oz. 1T as needed
I
4 oz. 12 oz. 1 oz. as needed
as needed
I. Peel and julienne the potatoes.
l Combine the potatoes with the Parmesan, salt and pepper. j Heal the clarified butter in an 8-incll (20-centimeter) nonstick pan. Add
the palato mixture and pack it lightly with the back of a spoon. Cook ol'er moderate heat unlil the potatoes begin [0 brown. t flip the rosti potatoes and place the pan in a 3;O°F (180°C) oven. Flipping once, rook umil the potatoes are crisp and evenly browned on the ol.Jlside and soft in the center, approximately 20 minutes on each side. S Transfer the rosti potatocs to a wire cooling rack to rest. 6; Slice the rosti horizontally into two round halves. Spread the bottom half with the room-temperature goat cheese. Grind black pepper over the cheese, sprinkle the herbs evenly over the surface and carefully replace the lOp. 1. Season the lamb and saute it in the 2 ounces (60 grams) of clarified buttt'!', turning frequently, until the desired doneness is achieved, approxim.:uely 8-12 minutes. Ii Remove the lamb and allow it to rest before slicing. ,9. Deglazc the pan with the pon and aed the lamb jus lie. Reduce by half and monte au beurre. III At service time, ladle the sauce omo ~ix warm plates, slice the lamb and 3mnge o\'er the sauce. Cut the rosti imo wedges and arrange on the plate. Spoon cherry confit (Recipe 25. 13) around the lamb and serve at once. ~IC I.ducs per serving; CalorlL'8 660, Total fat 39 g, Sa tu rated fat 21 g, Cholesterol 215 mg. Se6a 1260 mg, Total carbohydrates 12 g, Protein 64 g, VItamin A 61:1%, Calcium 45%
~
351
352
~.
CHAFl!~ 15
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 1;.12
LutB SHANK WITH P ERSIUADE Yield: 6 Servings Lamb shanks, trimmed, 2 lb.-2 lb. 8 oz. (,9-1.1 kg) each Salt and pepper Olive oil ShallOls, minced Carrot, chopped Celery, chopped Peppercorns, crushed Fresh thyme Garlic, chopped Dry white wine L'lmb stock Demi-glace Persillade: Garlic, minced Fresh parsley, chopped Fresh bread crumbs Whole butter, mehed Oijon mustard
Method: Braising
6
6
IT as needed 8 oz. 8 oz. 8 oz.
IT
6
6
2 tsp. 2 tSp. 12 oz. 1 ql. 1 pl.
10 ml 10 ml
I tsI'. I oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. as needed
as needed 250g 250 g 250 g
350 ml 1 It 450 ml
5m1 3Qg 60g 60g as needed
I. Season the shanks with 5<1.h and pepper; brown in olive oil. Z. Kemove the shanks and add the vegetables, peppercorns. thyme and p.
3. 4.
5. 6: 7. 8. 9. 10.
lic to the pan. Saute lIntil tender. Place the shanks on lOp of the vegetables. Add the wine, lamb stock and demi-glace. Bring to a Simmer, cover and braise in a 350cF (I80°C) oven untU reOO!t approximately 2 hours, adding more lamb stock if necessary. Remove the sh,lnks and hold for service. Degrease the sauce and reduce to the desired consistency. Strain the sauce and adjust the season ings. To make the persillade, combine all the ingredients and toss together. Warm the shanks thoroughly. Brush with mustard and sprinkle \,"im tIr persillade. Brown under a broiler and serve with the sauce.
Approximate V3Jues per 5e1Ving: Calories Jt 2O, Total fat 46 g, Saturated fat 17 g. Cbolesttrol il mg, Sodium 1540 mg. Total carboh),drates 31 g. Protein 147 g. Vitamin A I ~ Iron lOO!t
IAMB
""' ======= RECIPE 15.13
CH/APPElTl'S LAMB SHANK wl m LENTIIS AND COUNTRY VEGETABLES MA.\'GO Rt:srAURANT, QuaGO, IL
Che/Stet'€! CIJilippetti Method: Braising
r!ek!: 2 ScIYings \~able
oil
1.1mb shanks, approx. I lb. 8 oz. (720 g) each Onions, diced CalTOls, sliced Cdery, diced Bay leaves 1.3mb ~lock ~'
as needed
as needed
2
2 120 g 120 g 120 g 2 I It 120 ml 165 g 250 g IT
4 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz . 2 1 qt. 4 oz. 5 1/2 oz.
S:lUce
.\loIJsses Itn!il. soaked S3It and pepper
Sal. IT
I. IkJi a snull 3mQUm of oil in a saute pan. Sear the lamb shanks. l ~dd
the onions, carrots, celery and bay [caws 10 the pan. Then add the lamb stock. soy s.'lUce and molasses to the pan and dissolve the fond with the liquid. J. P\.:ace!he pan with the lamb shanks and vegetables in a 400"F (205"C) o\'eo ~nd
cook, uncovered, for 1 1/2 hours.
t.
Frequently baSle the lamb with the molasses-soy broth.
S.
.~
the lentils and cook for another hour. Season to taste with salt and pepper. &. :<.cr..e the lamb shanks, vegetables and lentils on a large planer. If'OIo\UlUle nluo:s per sc"'inS' Calories 1660. Total fa! 45 g, Saturated fat 16 g. Choleslt:rol 710 Sodium 6300 mg, Total carboh)'drates 92 g. I'rotcln 222 g. Vitamin A 90%, Calclu lll 35%,
ha l.'<J
RECIPE 15.14
IRISH lAMB STEW Method: Stewing
neld: 12 s.oz. (250-g) Servings
lJmb shoulder, 1 1/2-in. (Hm) cubes \rhite Slock \It'het: Iby kaf
Dried thyme
Peppercorns. crushed
41b. 3 pI.
1.8 kg
L51t
I
1/2 1sp. 1/21Sp.
2 ml 2ml COlllill ll ed
~
353
354
C11APl];'R 15
Parsley stems Garlic cloves, crushed Onion, sliced
10 4
10 4
lib.
450 8
Leek, sliced Potato, peeled, large dice
Soz. 1 lb. 8 oz.
225 g 700g
Salt and white pepper
IT
IT
Carrots, toum(>e
20 20 20 20 llbsp.
20 20 20 20
Turnips, (ournee
Potatoes, tOllrnCed or batonnel Pearl onions, peeled Fresh parsley, chopped
IS ml
1. Combine the lamb, stock, sachet, onions, leeks and diced potatoes. Semi with salt and while pepper. Bring to a simmer and skim the surface. Simmer the stew on the stove lOp or cover and cook in the oven at 35O'f (isoac) unlil the Jamb is Icnder, llpproxim3tcly I hour.
2. Degrease the stcw; remove and discard the sachet. j. Remove the pieces of diced polalo and puree them in a food mill or riett Use the potato puree 10 thicken the stcw 10 the desired consistency_ 4. Simmer the stew for 10 minutes to blend Ihe flavors. 5. Cook Ihe tourneed or balonnei vegelables. potatoes and pearl oniorui separately. At service, heat the vegetable garnishes and add 10 each JXlniood stew. 6. Garnish with chopped parslc)' and serve. Approximate \,;tlUe5 per s.m. (250-g) 5e1Ving' Calori~ 560. Total fal 26 g. SaIUDIn! fa! 10 I Choleslerol Ii; mg, Sodium 840 mg. Totat carboh )"drale5 26 g. Prolein )4 g. \'illlmin .~ 1f' Iron 30010
RECIPE 15. 15
B IANQUElTE OF
lAMB
Yield: 10 8-oz. (250-g) Servings White beans, dried Onion piquet Bouquet garni, for each: Carrot stick, 4 in. (to cm) Leek, split, 4-in. (IO·cm) piece Fresh thyme Bay leaf Lamb leg or shoulder, CUI in I I12-inch (4-cm) cubes White stock Sachet: Bay leaf Dried thyme Peppercorns. cmshed Parsley stems Garlic cloves, cmshed Salt Blond raux Heavy cream
Melhod: Stewing lib. 2 2
500 g 2 2
I sprig
1 sprig
I
I
4 lb. I 1/2 ql.
1.8 kg
I 1/211
I
112 ~p. 1/2 ISp.
2 ml 2 IllI
\0
\0
4
4
IT
'IT
2m:.
60g
10 oz.
280 ml
W/B
3 Thsp. 4
45 ml 4
, the beans in cold water for 12 hours, Drain, then add enough fresh ater to cover the beans by 2-4 inches (S-IO centimeters) . .~dd one onion piquet and one bouquet garni and cook until the beans are lender, approximately 1 1/2 hours. Remove and discard the onion piquet rod bouquet gami. I...
l Blanch the lamb cubes in boiling salted waleI'. I Place the blanched lamb in a po\. Add the stock and the second onion piquet, the second bouquet garni, the sachet and salT , Simmer Ilntilthe meat is tcnder, approximately 1 1/2 hours.
Remove the meal from the liquid and reserve. Reduce the cooking liquid 1 quan (1 liter). Incorporate the raux. , Combine the heavy cream, mustard and egg yolks and add to the reduced ~ock as a liaison, I RelUm the lamb to the sauce and adjust the seasonings. Heat the sauce and meat thoroughly but do not ailow it to boil. Serve the blanquette with the cooked beans. \0
~Ie
~l
... '"
>1tues per s.oz. (2SO-g) serving: Catories 710. Total rat 43 g. Saturat~od rat 19 g, 315 mg, SodIum 740 mg. Total carllohrdrates t4 g. Protein 67 g, Vitamin A IS%.
====== ,~
======
RECIPE 1;.16
lAMB NAVARIN Yield: 10 IO-Ol.. (3()()..g) Servings Olive oil Lean lamb shoulder, large dice Sui" Sal! and pepper flo", White stock White wine Tomato concasset
Bouquet garni: Carrot stick, 4 in. (10 em) Leek, split, 4-in. (I D-cm) piece Fresh thyme Bay leaf Pwto. peeled, medium dice C:\!TQt, medium dice While turnip, peeled, medium dice Pearl onions, peeled Fresh green peas
Method: Stewing
J1bsp. lib. I 1bsp.
45 !TIl I'; kg I; !TIl
IT
IT
3lbsp. 1 qt. 4 oz. Soz.
4; !TIl
1 sprig 1 1 lb. S oz. 1 lb. lib.
1 sprig 1
12 60z.
1 It
120 !TIl 250 g
650 g 450 g 450 g 12 170 g
I. In 3 braiser, brown the meat in the olive oil. 1 Sprinkle the meat with the sugar and season with salt and pepper. .J, Add the nour and cook to make a blond roux. COlltinued
."..
355
356 "'"
CHAP/'EII 15
4. Add the stock and wine. Add the tomatoes and bouquet gami; bring boiL Cover and cook in the oven at 375 c F C19O CC) until the meat' tender, approximately 1 to 1 112 hours. 5. Remove the meat and hold it in a waml place. Strain the sauce and off any excess fat. 6: Combine the sauce, meat, potatoes, carrots, turnips and onions. eo'cr" cook until the vegetables are almost tender, approximatel}' 25 minutes. 7. Add the peas and cook for 10 minutes more.
'''"m'o!
I.
Approximate v:Jlut';$ per tQ.oz. (300-g) serving: Calories 4SO. Total fat 16 g, ,r.. j,. C. lesu:rol 145 mg, SOdium 4&) mg, ToW carl>ohrdrates :n g. Protei ... SO g. Vitamill A 1I0'1i mill C 35%
============= ~. ============ RECIPE 15. 17
NOISEITES OF MAIB wlm GARLIC SAUCE Yield: 4 Servings Lamb noiseues, 2-3 oz, (60-90 g) each Sa lt and pepper Fresh thyme Garlic heads Fresh rosema!), Olil'eoil Red wine Jus lie
r-.lcthod: Sauteing 8
8
1T
1T
1 tsp.
5 ml
3
3
1 sprig 2 oz.
1 sprig 60 ml
4 oz. I pt.
450 ml
120 mI
1. Season the noiseltes with salt, pepper and thyme. 2. Break the garlic into cloves. Cook the cloves with the rosemary in I 0UlXt (30 grams) of oil over low heat until they are very soft, approximate~'1 minutes. j. Deglaze with the wine. Add the jus lie; simmer and reduce b}' half. 4. Strain the sauce through a china cap, pushing to extrnct some of the gar. lic. Return the sauce 10 the saucepan and adjust the consistenc}' and seasonings. 5. Saute the noiscnes to the desired degree of done ness in the remaining ci serve with the sauce. Approxim;l!e v:Jlues per 5.5'<1z- (J67·g) serving: ealorlt!:5 370, TOlat fal 26 g, Saluralro fat 6g. Cit ICSlerol 105 mg, SOdium 660 mg, Total car boh)'dralcs I g, Prolci ... 32 g
HAPTEW
16 ----/ ORK
•
ComUt/a BarbeclIed Ribs
Whill's 'be OcC4SSionl en tering, Plmeni.Y, AZ
=== ~ == After studying this chapter, you will be able 10: <""\!I.. c"\!\.,
<"'\!I..
identify the primal, subprimal and fabricated cuts of pork perform basic bUlchering procedures apply appropriate cooking
methods to several common cuts of pork
ark is the meal of hogs usuaily butchered before they are"~1 year old. \fIith the exception 0/ beef, Americans COllS~'I~/I~":~el;;;::'lb,:;1 than any other meat. nJe pork we eat is leaner and b once was becallse of advances in anima! J)lIsbandlY. Since hogs are butchered at a young age, their meat is geJ1ero~ very tender with a deficalejlavor./t is well suited to a van·ety ofccxi ing methods, More tha n two thirds of the pork marketed in the United States is cured to produce prodllcts stich as smoked hams and smoked belCO ll. Cured pork products are discussed ill Chapter r Charcuterie.
PRIMAL AND SUBPRfMAL CUIS OF PORK After a hog is slaughtered, it is generally split down the backbone, dividing dr carcass in10 bilateral halves. Like the beef carcass, each side of the hog carOl is then further broken down into the primal ems: shoulder, Boston butt, loin and fresh ham. Hogs are bred specifically to produce long loins: The loin contains highest-quality meat and is the most expensive cut of pork. Pork is lhal the ribs and loin are considered a single primal. 11lcy arc not
into two different prima is, as are the ribs and loin of beef, veal and lamb. Figure 16.1 shows the relationship between the hog's bone sm,",re ,. the primal CUts. As with all meats, it is important to know the location when CUlling or working with pork. This makes meal fabrication and easier and aids in identifying cuts. Figure 16.2 shows the primal and their locuion on the OTCaSS. A hog carcass generally weighs in a 120 to 210 pounds (55-110 kg).
M''''''
Shoulder TIle primal shoulder, known as the picnic ham. is the lower ponion of hog's foreleg; it accounts for approximately 20% of the carcass weight. shoulder contains the arm and shank oones and has a relatively high oone to lean meal. Because all pork comes from hogs slaughtered at a young age, the der is tender enough to be cooked by any method. It is, however, one toughest cuts of pork. It is available smoked or fresh. The shoulder is expensive and, when purchased fresh , it can be CUt into shoulder bun or ooned and cut for sauteing or stewing. TIle foreshank is called the shoulder hock and is almOSI always Shoulder hocks are often simmered for long periods in soups. slews a.1I braised dishes to add flavor and richness.
Boston Butt The primal Boston bun is a square Cllt located just aoove the primal ]Xrl shoulder. It accoums for approximately 7% of the carcass weighl.
PORK '"""
Ptht.: IIoIr
ftc::::::::::::::::: ~] llioo
~ Bone
LIIip Boot
Shank IIonts
TailBone (aOOaI IffIfbrat)
......
(D ItIIebrat)
om...... _ -l--i>-orl (bodies 0/ CtI'Iica1.
Kib Cartililgl'S (rosIa! cartilages)
Ihondc, lumbar:llld s:ml 1'Mebrae)
_.........
-Rib Rones
... Boo.
(Iumba!\~)
~ processes)
~
"',.
(b:nX~)
........... A'~<::;..__
......
''' ' ' '' ..,
"""'/1;;"''''''~--J
...
(ttnbllftItbrat)
The Skele/(// Struc/llre QJa l/og
Fresh lIam
Boston Bua
--
361
362
CIWTffI16
The Boston butt is very mealy and tender, with a good percentage of fat [0 lean meat.
Containing only a small ponion of the blade bone, the Boston bun is a good choice when a recipe calls for a solid
piece of lean pork. The fresh Boston butt is sometimes cut into steaks or chops 10 be broiled or sauteed. when the Boslon butt is smoked, it is usually boneless and
called a cottage ham.
Belly
8ostonlJrl
The primal pork belty is located below the loin. Accounting for approximateh 16% of the carcass weight, it is very fatty wilh only streaks of lean meal. t contains the spareribs, which are always separated from the rest of til belly before cooking. Spareribs usually are sold fresh but can also be smoked. TIlt cally, they arc simmered and then grilled or baked while beq: b:lsted with a spicy barbecue sauce. The remainder of the ~ belly is nearly always cured and smoked to produce bacon.
Loin nle loin is cut from directly behind the Boston bUll and includes the entirer'b section as well as the loin and a ponion of the sirloin area. The primalloina(· counlS for approximately 20% of the c"Jrcass weight. [t contains a portion d the blade bone on the shoulder end, a ponion of the hip bone on the bad end, all the ribs and most of the backbone. The primal pork loin is the only primal cut of pork not typically smoketlil cured. Most of the loin is a single, very lender eye muscle. It ~ quite lean but contains enough intramuscular and subcwneous fat to make it an excellent choice for a moist-he:I cooking method such as braising. Or it can be prep:utd with dry-hem cooking methods such as TOasting il sauteing. The loin also contains the pork tenderloin.located on the inside of the r'b bones on Ihe sirloin ml of the loin. The u.'fICia'· loin is the mOSt teOOer cut of pork, it is 1-eI)"
Pork Loin
Pork Tenderloill
I'ork &Ickribs
Pork Loin Chops
PORK
""""'" = = = = = = Hoes:
A SOURCE FOR SWGANS
&p I\fte 6151 brought 10 Florida by Span~ In
1539, and they thrived in this . Ift'('mironmefll. The British shipped b~ colonies, and as earl)' as 1639, \1rs colonists were supplying England \\-ith aM bacon. During colonial dl)'S, pork pPfd in barrels for shipment. gil'ing rise
to the!enn "meal packing." During the ~Iar of 1812, the U.S. govemmenl shipped pork to American soldielS in barrels stamped with dlf
letters "US" and the name of the meal packer, Sam Wilson. The soldiers referred to !he meat as "Uncle Sam's meat," thus giving birth to the national gO'o'emment's nickname, Uncle Srun.
MS3tile and can be trimmed, cuI into medallions and sauteed, or the whole tOOerloin can be roasted or braised. The most popular cut from the loin is the p;rl: chop. Chops can be cut from the entire loin, the choicest being center01 chops from the primal loin after the blade bone and sirloin ponions 11 the m and rear of the loin 1re removed. The pork loin can be purchased bone-
b or boned and tied as a roast. A boneless pork loin is smoked to produce Cmdi:m bacon. TIle rib bones, when trimmed from the loin, can be served • b3rbecued pork back ribs . .-\/though nO{ actually part of the primal loin. fatback is the Ihick layer of ~rnetimes more than an inch (2'; centimeters) thick-berween the skin IKI the lean eye muscle. It has a variety of uses in the kitchen, especially in me preparation of charcllterie items.
Fresh Ham The prim31 fresh ham is the hog's hind leg. It is a rather large cut accollnting b approximately 24% of the carcass weight. The ham contains the aitch, leg ItId hind shank bones. Fresh hHlll, like the legs of other meat animals, conrain> brge muscles with relatively small amounts of connective tissue. Like many other cuts of pork, hams are often cured Hnd smoked. But fresh hams also produce great roasts and can be prepared using almost any cooking method. When cured and smoked, hams are available in a varielY of styles; they can be purchased bone-in, shankless or boneless, partially or fully cooked. Fully cooked hams are also available canned. There is a specific ham for nearly every use and desired degree of convenience. IrtsbHam The shank portion of the ham is called the ham hock. It is used in the s:mle manner as the shoulder hock.
•
363
364
~,
ClW>'JF.R 16
B UTCHERING PROCEDURES Other than suckling pigs (which are very young, \'ery small whole pigs usa! for roasting or barbecuing whole), pork produds generally are not purcha.«I1 in forms larger than the primal CUtS described earlier. There are a few imPl" lam pork fabrication and butchering techniques that you should master, tlO'I e\'er.
PROCEDURE FOR BoNING A PORK LOIN
1. Starting on the sirloin end of a full pork loin, remO\'e the tenderloin in one piece by making smooth cuts against the inside of the rib bones, Pull gently on the tenderloin as you cut
2. Turn the loin over and cut between the ribs and the eye meal. Continue separating the meat from the bones, following the contours of the bones. until thr: loin is completely sepa~lted from the bones.
4. The full}' boned loin will coru~ of (from left to right) (anilege, tb. tenderloin , boneless loin and bo bones.
J.
Trim :lfound the bl:lde bone on the shoulder end of the loin :lnd remove it
PORK
Pmnm FOR T\~~G A BONEtESS I1I1l m, HAu-HITCH METHOD
L Wrap the loose end of (he siring around the pork loin and lic il
\\;Ih a double kno!.
'""'"
365
PORK RO,\ST
2. Make a loop and slide it down
over the roast to approximately I inch (25 centimeters) from the
first knot.
j.
.Ibke another loop and slide il oo\\'n. Continue in this fashion until the whole roast has been lied.
4. Turn the roast over and cut the
string, leaving enough
\0
wrap
5. Wrap the Siring around the end of
the
r03S1 ,
then around the string
lengthwise around the roasl to the
thai formed the las! loop.
original knot.
Continue in this fashion for the
length of the roast, pulling the
SIring tight after wrapping i( around each loop.
t Tum (he roaSt b:lck over. Wrap the Siring around the front end of the roost and secure it \0 the first loop:u the point where you tied
the firsl knot.
7. The finished roast. Note the even inteiVals at which the strings are (ied. TIley should be just snug enough 10 hold the shape of the roast; they should not dig in or cut the meat.
366
CHAl'lFli 16
PROCEDURE FOR CurrlNG A CHOP FROM A PORK loiN
Center-cut pork chops can be cuI from the center portion of a bone-in rx:n loin without the aid of a saw by using a boning knife and a heavy dealt:( Trim the excess [al from the loin, leaving a 1/4-inch (6-millimeter) layer 10 poteCl the meat during cooking.
I . Cut through the meat with the
knife.
2. Use the cleaver to chop through the chine bone.
J. To produce a cleaner chop. trim Ihe mem from Ihe end of lhe rib bone. Then, with the boning krule. sepamte the loin meal from the
chine bones and separale lhe chine bone from the rib wim!be cleaver.
PROCEDURE FOR ClTITlNG A POCKET IN A PORK CHOP
To make a pocket in a pork chop for SlUffing, start with a thick chop or a
I . Use the tip of a IXlning knife 10 cuI a pocket
PORK
~ 16. 1
h"> USING COMMON Cms OF PORK
~1un1
•
PlxmL'RE FOR
Subprimal or Fabricated CUI
IMPS
Cooking Methods
Serving Sugg'esiions
Pirnic shoulder
405
Dry heal (roost or bake)
Smoked picnic shoulder
Boslon bun
406
Dry heal (broil or grilt; saulc) MOist heal (si mmer)
Broiled Boston bUll steaks Choucroute
Bacon
539
Dry he:1I (saute)
Breakfast mea!
Seasoning Seasoning
Spareribs
41M
Moist heat (simmer) Combination (braise) Combination (steam then grill)
Pork loin
410
Pork tenderloin Pork back ribs Pork loin chops
415
Fresh h3m
422
1410
Dry heat (roost) Combioation (braise) Dry heal (broil or grill; saulc; roast) Combination (steam then grill) Dry heal (broil or gril!) Combination (braise) Dr)' heat (roast)
TRIMMING A PORK TENDERLOIN
~ "ith
lJt 3 boning knife to remove the silverskin from a pork tenderloin.
{f/oNCLUSION
.N-,
M run be enjoyed cured, processed or fresh. The mild flavor of fresh pork NtM:, well with many different seasonings, making it a popular menu item. It
IlI:IlUrally tcnder and can be prepared by almost any dry-heat, moiSI-heat or cmilinJlion cooking method. Properly fabricated and prepared, it can be a IMnIIOll:i me-JI.
367
Barbecued spareribs Roast pork
Braised pork chops Roast pork tenderloin BarbecuL>d back ribs Broiled loin chop with mushroom sauce
Braised lOin chop with leeks and fennel Roost pork wilh apriaxs and almonds
368
c/WiM 16
, qg,UE5TJONS FOR DISCUSSION .N-. I. List each pork primal, and describe its location on the carcass. ldenlifylwo subprimals or fabricated Cllts taken from each primaL
2. What is unique aboul1he primal pork loin as compared to the beef or \'eaj loin?
3. Are fatback and bacon taken from the 5.1me primal? How are Ihey differert 4. \'('hat is the only primal CUt of pork Ihat is nOt typically smoked or (lIreIF How is i1 best cooked? Explain your answer.
~r;;{nD!T!ONAL P ORK RECIPES -
.N-.
RECIPE 16.1
CAROLINA BARBECUED RIBS NOTE.' 7bis tfisb at(X!ars in the Chapter qJellillgpholograph.
Yield: 6 Servings, approx. 4 ribs each
Salt and pepper Crushed red pepper flakes Po rk back ribs, White vinegar
3-4
lb, ( 1.3-1.8 kg) slab
Sauce: Onion, chopped coarse Garlic cloves
Green bell pepper, chopped coarse plum tomatoes, canned Red Devil hOt sauce Brown sugar Lemon juice
Method: Roasting IT
IT
I Tbsp. 2 1 pt.
15 ml 2 450 ml
5 oz. 3
iSO g
I pt.
3 120 g 450 ml
802. 1002. 2 02.
225 g 300g 60ml
4 oz.
1. Combine the salt, pepper and red pepper flakes. Rub this mixture 1)'tI both sides of the ribs, coating them well. 2. Place the ribs in a nonreactive pan and add the vinegar. Cover and refrt erate several hours or overnight. 3. Uncover the ribs, tum the presentation side down and bake in a r;1 (I90°C) oven for 1 1/2 hours. 4. Remove the ribs from the liquid and place on a dean sheet pan. tt.mit them so that the presentation side is up. Increase the oven temperature II 400°F (200°C) and bake for an additional 30 minutes. 5. Prepare the sauce by pur(>eing the onion, garlic, green pepper and lC& toes in a food processor or blender. Pour this mixture into a nOnre:Jctilr saucepan and add the remaining sauce ingredients. 6: Simmer the sauce over low heat until it thickens, approxinlalely 15 to N minutes. 7. Brush the ribs WIth the sauce and serve addItional sauce on the SIde. Senf with Creamy Cole Slaw, Recipe 24.33, and Baked Beans, Recipe 22.24 Approximate ,,,tues per sen'IAg Calories 14 10. Total fat 68 g, Saturated fa t 23 g. 0J01esttrol 1!' mg, Sodium 1280 mg. Total carbohydn.tes 65 g, Protein 134 g, Vitamln A 2I.M. VitaminCll'
Iron
3;~
PORK
,= ===== """'" RECIPE 16.2
CHINESE BARBECUED SPARERIBS fltkl: approx. 24 ribs
Method : Roasting
Sparerib racks, 2 lb. 8 02. (1.1 kg) each Garlic c1o\'es, crushed Tonuto catsup ~' sauce
2 2 2 Tbsp. 2 Tbsp. 2 Tbsp, 2 Tbsp. 1 Tbsp. I Tbsp,
Hoisin sauce Red wine
Fresh ginger, grated Honey
2 2
30ml 30 ml 30 ml 30 ml 15 rul 15 ml
L CuI the spareribs into individual ribs and llfJ'3nge them on a rack in a baking pan. Roast for 45 minutes at 300Q F OSOQC). 1 Combine the rem3ining ingredients into a sauce. Brush the spareribs lightly .'i1h the sauce. Roast for 30 minutes more.
l. Tum the spareribs and brush wilh more sauce. Roast until the ribs are well hcO\med, approxim:lIcly 30 minutes. , ';I!ues per S.rib (/iOO.g) serving: Calo ries W;O, Tow ra t 85 g, 5aruralcd (at 29 g, Cho.... ""'" Sodium 9-10 mg. Tout carbohyurale5 8 g, J>Jom~in 164 g, Iron 31M
r ================ RECiPE 16.3
PORK LOIN WITH PRUNES ylt'!d; 6 6-02. (ISO-g) Servings
Boneless pork loin roast, 3 lb, (15 kg) Salt and pepper Prunes, pined CaITOl, chopped coarse Onion, chopped coarse Vegetable oil Oarified bUller Fresh rosemal)' Fresh th~'lTle Bay leaf, crushed Garlic do\'es .'W1e juice 'l"hite stock &"
\inegar
Method: Roasting I IT
IT
lIb. 8 oz. 3 oz. 6 oz. Ilbsp. Ilbsp. 1 !Sp. 1 !Sp. I
750 g 90g 170 g IS ml IS 011 5 ml 5 ml I 2 2)0 ml 2)0 m1 60g 60011
2
8 oz. 8 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz.
L Trim and butterfly the pork lOin; reserve the trimmings. (To butterfly the loin, slice it partway through the center and open it like a book, then flatten il into a rcclangular shape.) Season with salt and pepper. COlltillll ed
",",
369
370
c/W'I1!R 16
2. Reserve 12 prunes and arrange the remaining prunes along the lengthd the loin. Roll up the loin and tie with butcher'S [\vine. 3. Brown the pork roll and pork trimmings. carrots and onions in the oil ani butter. 4. Add the herbs and garlic and roast the pork on the bed of trimmings m:I vegetables at 3;ooF ( 1700C), basting freque ntly with the fat that 3IT\Jlll)o lates in the pan, until done, approximately 45-60 minutes. 5. Poach the reserved pnmes in the apple juice until plump; set aside. 6. Remove the roast from the pan and keep it warm. Degrease the pan l-xt deglaze with white Stock. Simmer for 15 minutes, then strain. 7. Combine the sugar and vineg:tr in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and cooi; without stirring until the mixture turns a caramel color. Immediately remove from the heat and add the juices from the roasting pan. When sputtering stops, return the pan to the he:1I and skim any fat from the sur· face; keep the sauce warm over low heal. 8. Drain the prunes. Remove the twine from the roasl. Slice and serve ttr meat with the sauce and prunes.
w
Approximate ''3.IUt'';'; pef serving: Calories 850. Total fat 16 g, Saturated fal 5 g. Choksttrollf. mg, Sodium 530 mg. TOIaI carbohydnues 110 g. Protein 66 g. Vitamin A 45%, Vitamin C lilt
"""
...
RECIPE 16.4
BOURBON BAKED HAM Method: Baking
Yield: 16 6-oz (ISO-g) Servings
Ham, fully cooked, bone in, 12-14 lb. ( ;.~.3 kg) Brown sugar Cloves, ground Cmshed pineapple, with juice Bouroon Orange marmalade
I
I
6 oz.
170 g 2 ml 500 g 250 ml 250 g
Il2tsp. 16 oz. 8 oz.
80z.
1. Peel the skin from the ham and trim the exterior fat to an even of 1/ 4 inch (6 millimeters). 2. Combine the sugar and doves and pat this mixture e\'enly over the the ham. Roast the coated ham at 350°F 070°C) for 30 minutes. 3. Combine the pineapple, bourbon and marmalade in a saucepan medium heat. Do nOt allow the bourbon 10 flame. 4. Pour the sauce over the ham and cook until done, basting frequendr. proximately 3 hours. 5. Remove the ham from the roasting pan. Keep it warm and allow for 30 minutes before carving. Approxim.lIe values per (;.oz. (407·g) 5Cfving: Calories 610. Total fat 19 g, Saturated fal 6 So les terol )85 mg. Sodium 4520 mg, Tota l ca rbohrdratd 2·1 g, Protein 85 g, Iro n 20%
PORK
RECIPE 16.5
B EER-MARINATED PORK TENDERLOIN field: 66-oz. (I80-g) Servings
Method: Grilling
Pcd; lenderloins,
approx. 14 oz. (400 g) each
3
3
~larinade:
ugh! soy sauce
4 oz.
120m]
Beer, room temperature
12 oz. 2 oz. 1 1/2 Thsp.
360ml
ugh! brown sugar Fresh ginger, grated
60g 22 ml
L dean the tenderloins, removing all visible fat and silverskin. 1 Combine the marinade ingredienls, stirring until the sugar dissolves. J Place the tenderloins in a hotel pan and cover with the marinade. Cover the pan and refrigerate for 2 to 6 hours. , Remo\'c the tenderloins from the marinade and grill over medium· hot cools, turning as needed. J, Allow the cooked tenderloins to resl for 5 minutes, then slice thinly on the
bils. e \~es per serving; CaIoric$ 592. Total fal 42 g, S;otul"3ted fat 16 g. Cholesterol 143 mg, . . . O! mg. Toul carbohydrates 13 g, Protein 3S g. Iron 13%
RECIPE 16.6
SAUTEED PORK MEDAIJJONS WITH RED P EPPER AND CITRUS Yltld: 8 Servings
Pork lOin, boneless, 3 lb. (I.4 kg) Sail and pepper
Method: Sauteing
IT 6 oz. 6 oz.
IT 180 !TIl
30ml
Grand ;\Iamier
2 Thsp. 4 oz. 4 as needed 12 oz. 4 oz.
Demi-glace
I pI.
QliYe oil Orange juice lemon juice
Green onion, sliced On'ges
floo, Red ben pepper, julienne
180 Illl 120 g 4 as needed
350 g 120 mt 450 ml
L Season the pork with salt and pepper and marinme overnight in 4 ounces 1120 milliliters) of the olive oil, 4 ounces (120 milliliters) of the orange ~icet 1 tablespoon (IS milliliters) of the lemon juice and 2 ounces (60 grams) of the green onions.
1. Zest the oranges. Blanch and refresh the zest. Peel and section the oranges. Continlled
371
372
CIIAf'l'ER 16
3. Cut the pork into 3-ounce (9O-gram) medallions and pound lightly. 4. Dredge the medallions in flour seasoned with salt and pepper.
5. Saute the medallions in the remaining olive oil until done, approxiffiltetri minUles. Remove from the pan and reserve.
6. Add the red peppers and remaining green onions 10 the pan and saLlt lighll)'.
7. Remove the pan from the flame and degJaze w ith Grand Marnier. 8. Add the dcmi-gJace, orange zest, and remaining orange and lemon jum Adjust the seasonings. 9. Serve two medallions of pork per portion with sauce. Garnish with tht a· aoge sections. Approllimale values per 12.oz. (365·g) serving: Calories 550. Total fal 30 g, S
RECIPE 16.7
STUFFED PORK CHOPS Method: Braising
Yield: iO Servings
Thick-cut pork chops, approx. 8 oz. (250 g) each Celery, small dice Onion, smaJi dice Whole buner, melted Fresh bread cubes, 1/2 in. 0.2 COl) Parsley, chopped Salt and pepper White stock Olive oil Oemi-glace
iO
4 oz. 6 oz.
iO 120g
8 oz. Ilbsp.
170 g 170g 250 g 15 ml
n
n
approx. 8 oz. 2 oz. I qt.
approx. 2;0 ml 60 ml lit
6 oz.
1. Cut pockets in the chops. 2. Saute (ile celery and onions in 2 ounces (60 grams) of buner umillezm 3. Combine the celery, onions and remaining butler with the bread cuh!I. parsley, salt and pepper. Add enough stock to moisten the dressing. 4. Stuff the mixture into each of the pork chops. Seal the pockets wim uxQ. picks and tie with butcher'S [wine. 5. In a braiser, brown the SlUffed chops well on each side in the olive oil. 6. Add the demi-glace. Bring to a simmer, cover and place in a 325°F (!(gQ oven. Cook until tender, approximately 45 minutes. 7. Remove the chops from the pan. Degrease the sauce and reduce to the
PORK
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 16.8
CHOUCROUTE neld: 12 Servings, 4 oz. (120 g) sauerkraut I sausage and 7 oz. (200 g) (X>rk
Method: Braising
250 g 340g
Baron, medium dice Onion, medium dice Garlic, chopped fine Gr.Jnny Smith apples, medium dice Saumrau[ Dry white wine
8 oz.
4 oz.
120 ml
lX'hite wine vinegar
4 oz.
120 ml
Chicken stock Sachet: Juniper berries B:ly leaves Cloves Car:lway seeds Boneless JXlrk bUlt, 4 lb. (I.8 kg) SlOOkt'd pork loin Red poillOCS, peeled and quartered Bratwurst \11, and pepper
I pc
500 ml
6 J
6 3
12 oz. I 1/2 oz.
8 oz. 2 lb. 8 oz.
2 1 tsp. I 21b. Jib. 12 links IT
45 g 250 g
lkg
2
5 ml I
I kg 1.4 kg 12 links IT
1 Render the oo.con . the onions, garlic and apples in the bacon rat without browning. 1 Rinse the sauerkraut and squeeze out the liquid. Add (he sauerkraut to the .2. Sallie
1"'. t Stir in the wine, vinegar, stock and sachet.
l Pbct' the pork bUll on the sauerkraut. Cover and braise in a 325°F (I60°C) Olen for [ hour. , Add the smoked pork loin and potatoes and braise an additional 30 minutes. ,. Add the bratwurst and braise until all the meats are tender and the potatoes are done, approximately 30 minutes. Remove and discard the sachet. Season 10 taste with salt and pepper. t Car\"c (he meats and serve with a portion of the sauerkraut and potatoes. tw'~ l-a(ues per S(.'fVlng' Calories 9-iO, Total fat 50 g. Saturated fal 18 g, Cholesterol 255 mg . .... 19tO mg. T()(al clIrboh)·dr.nes 3~ g. Protein 90 g. VIllImln C 35,.. Iron 3006
RECIPE 16.9
CA,~,~OIJLBT Cbef Leltmd AtkillSOIl,
WAS/Uli6!"Oli, DC
YJrld: 8 Servings, 8 oz. (250 g) pork stew
J\-\elhod: Stewing
I 112 oz. (45 g) sausage and I piece of duck each Continued
'"""
373
374
ClwrrTiIII6
8oz,
450 g 2 Ii 250 g
1 sprig
1 sprig
Bay leaf Lamb or Other sausage
I
I
lib.
Onion. medium dice Garlic, chopped Pork butt, cut in 2-in. (;-em) cubes Salt and pepper Olj\'c oil
6 oz. 1/2 oz.
450 g 180 g
\\?hite beans White siock Smoked ham, large dice
lib. 2 qt.
Bouquet garni: Carrol stick, 4-in. (to-cm) Leek, split, 4-in. (lO-cm) piece Fresh thyme
lIb. 8 oz.
15 g 700 g
IT 1 oz. 8 oz.
IT
6 oz.
180 Illl
Tomato concassee
lib.
Demi-glace
I
pt.
250 g 450 ml
Brown stock
8 oz.
250 ml
Mirepoix White wine
30 ml 250 g
Sachet:
Bay leaf
I
Dried thyme
}/ 2 lSp. 1/2 ISp.
Peppercorns, cracked Parsley stems Garlic cloves, crushed Duck Confu (Recipe 17.21) I . To make the bean stew,
2.
3. 4. 5.
6. 7.
8.
9.
.~oak
2m! 2m!
, 8
,8
8 pieces
8 pieces
Ill(> whiTt" hf"ans overnight in water Dni
and combine with the white slock, ham and bouquet garni. Bring 10 a silJ. mer and cook for 30 minutes. Add the lamb sausage, onions and gaOC simmer until the beans are tender. Remove and reserve the sausage. Drain the be::IIlS, reserving both the beans and the cooking liquid. the cooking liquid by half and combine with the beans. To make the meat stew, season the pork with salt and pepper '"0' "'•• it in olive oil. Remove and reserve the meat . Add the mirepoix to the pan and saute. Deglaze with the white .j add the tomato conca.ssee, demi-glace, brown stock and 5.'1chet. simmer the pork unlil tender, approximately 45 minutes. Remove the meal from the sauce and resen'e. Discard the sachet. the sauce until thiCk; return the meat to the sallce. To sen'e, scrape the excess fat from the duck confit. Place the duck roasting pan and roast at 350°F (I80°C) until the meat is hot and the is crisp, approximately 20 minutes. Place a portion of hOi beans in a soup plate. Place a portion of the c6nfll in the plate. Arrange a portion of the meat stew on lOp of and around the duck. Slice the lamb s:msage and add it 10 the plate. Garn ish with fresh herbs.
Approxim.1(
HAPTER
17 ~ OULTRY
The fC)ljr Seawns, Nelli York, NY Che/Chrlstl,," Albin
=== ~ ==
After studying this chapler, you will be able 10; <"'\!\.
~ ~
~
understand the Slmcture and composition of poultry idemify various kinds and classes of poultry understand poultl)' inspectio n and grading practices purchase poultry appropriate for yOur needs
<"'0..
store pouluy properly
<"'0..
prepare poultry for cooking apply various cooking methods to poultry
C"'0..
is the collective term for domeslicated birds bred Jor eating. They include chickens, ducks, geese, guineas, pigeons alld OUIlI),
turkeys. (Game birds slIcb as pheasant, quail and pm1rlcige are tJi. scribed ill Chapter 18, Game; [arm-raised rafife~osfrich, emil and rbe~are
discussed here.) Poul"y is gellerally the least expellSil"f ami most versatile of all mail1 dish foods. It can be cooJ..>ed ~)I afmtS Cllly method, and its mild fla vor goes well with a wide IJarieo'if SCI/I ces and accompaniments. In this chaplet; /lie disc/lss tbe different kinds and classes ofpolj~ oy and how 10 choose (hose that best suil )'ol/r needs. YOII will /earl how to store poultry proper~y to prevent food-borne illllesses and spoilage; how to butcher birds 10 produce the specific cllls you lieN and how 10 apply a van·ely of cooking methods properly. MallY of the cooking methods discllssed here have beell applit'rl preViously to meats. Allhough there are Similarities with lhese metb· ods, (here are also many distinct differe11ces. As YOII study this chapter, review the con-espondillg cooking methods for meats (md I/otetbt simiknities (md differences.
M USCLE COMP(}SfTION .m--, The muscle tissue of poultry is Similar to that of mammals in that it contaiJb approximate ly 72% water, 20% pfO{ein, 7% fat and 1% minerals; it consisbd' bundles of muscle cells or fibers held together by connective tissue. Unlike ft(I meat, poultry does nOt contain the intramuscular fat known as marbling. Instead, a bird stores fat in ilS skin, abdominal cavity and the fat pad near il.l ta:o
~
==========
FR£B-RAA'CE CH1CX£\"S
Chicken has become increasingly pOJlular in recenl years, in part because it is inexpensh'e, versatile and considered heal~lier than meat. Indeed, more than 100 million ch:ckens are proc:es;ed weekly in this country. To meet an ever-increasing demand, chickens are raised indoo~ in huge chicken houses thai may contain as many as 20,000 birm. They are fed a specially fomlUlated mixture composed primarily of com and soybean mea!. Animal protein, vitamins, minerals and small amounts of antibiotiQi are added 10 prodUCE quick-ping, healthy birds. Many consumers feel that chickens raised this way do not ha\'e the flamr of chickens that
are allowed to mOle freely and forage for food. Some consumers are concerned about the residual effects of the vitamins, minerals and antibiotiQi added 10 the chicken feed. To meet the demand for chickens raised the '·old-fashioned way," soille famlers ("Jise (and man)' fine establishments offer) free-range chickens. Although the USDA has not standardized regulations for free-range chicken, generally the termfree-rallge applies 10 birds that are allowed unlimited access 10 the area outside the chicken house. Often they are raised v.ithout antibiotics, fed a vegetarian diet (no animal fat or byproducts), processed without the use of preser'o'ati\"ES and raised under more htunane
growing methods than com"C11liooally grt'I birds. Most free-range chickens are marktudl ~JO v.'eeks old and weigh 4 In to:l p:lIIIIIsa to 2 In kilograms)---{'.(lf)Sirerably more !lit lure and hea\ier than com-entiOilai bn:U!s. They are generally sold with heads and fl!I it tact and are more expensive than COOI"8lll(8ally raised chickens. Many consumers (in both the dining rtIII and the kitchen) feel thai free-range chickm ~ superior in lla\'Or and qUality. Others fuxl. perceptible differences. As a consumer.)"OO wi have to decide whether any differenre the added expense.
is_
POUL77I1'
PooI1l) fat is softer and has a lower melting point than other animal fats. It is a'il), rendered during cooking . ..I,s with red meaLS. poultry muscles that are used more often tend to be wgher than those used less frequently. Also, the muscles of an older bird tOO to be tOugher than those of a younger one. Because the majorifY of poulII L::. marketed at a young age, however, it is generally very tender. The breast and wing flesh of chickens and turkeys is lighter in color than !be fle~h of their thighs and legs. This color difference is due to a higher concmll:ltion of the protein myoglobin in the thigh and leg muscles. Myoglobin ~ the protein that stores oxygen for the muscle tissues to use. More active IIJ.Slics require more myoglobin and tend to be darker than less active ones. ~use chickens and turkeys generally do not fly, their breast and wing musdei contain li[(le myoglobin and are therefore a light color. Birds that do fly 11M only dark meat. Dark meat also contains more fat and connective tissue dun light meal, and its cooking time is longer. ~k in color may vary from white to golden yellow, depending on what the tW \\":\s fed. Such color differences are not ;In indication of overall quality.
379
Hock COrl/isb Came Hell
Chicke" BroilerlF'yer
IDENTIFl1NG POULTRY
,N-,
The lISDA recognizes six C:ltegories or kinds of pou ltry: chicken, duck , goose, ~ine:J. pigeon and turkey. ElICh poultry kind is divided into classes based JIt'dominamly on the bird's age and tenderness. 111e sex of young birds is not !igruficam for culinary purposes. II does malter, however, with older birds: Okb male birds are tough ~lIld stringy and have less flavor than older female lith Tables 17.1 Ihrough 17.6 list idemifying charaderistics :lIld suggested cooking methods for each of the v~ rious kinds and classes of poultry.
Chicken Olden (Fr. {XJlIlet) is the mOSt popular and widel)' eaten poultry in the world. l colllains both light and dark meat and has relatively little fat. A young, tenli'rrnicken can be cooked by almost any method; an older bird is best stewed
T.w.E 17. 1
.h-. CIIICKEN CI.ASSF.S
a..
Description
Gmlrhen
Young or immature prog~m}' of Cornish chickens or of a Cornish chicken and a White Rock chicken; very flavorful hIer·fr}w Young with soft, smooth-textured skin; relatively lean; flexible breastbone Young with tender meat and slllOO{h-textur(."(! skin; breastbone is less flexible titan broiJer"s t.p<. Surgically Gl5tr:lled male; tender meat with soft smoolh-textured skin; bred for weU-flavored meal: contains :l high proponion of !ighl to dark mC'Ji :lod a rel:luvely high f:lt CQnrent Hm'lcwing Mature female; flavorful but less tender meat; nonflexible breastbone
-,
CapOI/
Ag'
\\'eight
~king
>-6 weeks
2 lb. (1 kg) or less
Split and broil or grill; roast
13 weeks
3 lb. 8 oz. (1.5 kg) or less 3 lb, 8 oz.-5 lb. (1.5-2 kg)
Any cooking method; vel)' versatile Any cooking method
Under 8 months
6-10 lb. (2.5-4.5 kg)
Roast
O\·er 10 months
2 lb. 8 oz.-8 lb. (1-3.5 kg)
Slew or braise
3-5 months
Method
380
TABLE
• CHA11'ER 17
17.2 ""'
DUCK
CLASSES
Cla1).';
Description
Broiler/ fryer
8 weeks or less Young bird with tender ryeat; a soft bill and windpipe Young bird with tender meat; rich flavor; 16 weeks or l~ easily denied windpipe Old bird with tougl~ flesh; hard bill and 6 months or older windpipe
Rooster Mature
Age
\x'Cighl
Cooking Method
3 lb. 8 oz.-4 lb. (1 .5-1 .8 kg) 4-6 lb. 0.8-2.5 kg)
Roost at high tcmperablr
Roo.
4-6 lb. (] .8-2'; kg) Braise
or braised. Chicken is extremely versatile and ma)' be seasoned, stuffed, bastt'd or garnished with almost anything. Chicken is inexpensive and readily 31"Ji. able, fresh or frozen, in a variety of forms.
Duck
R()(lSter Ducklillg
DuckJing---(l dtlek sklllgb/t"IY.'(I before iJ is tigbl
U"t'l'ir okl.
111e duck (Fr. callard) used most often in commercial food service operalicD is a roaster duckling. It contains only d:trk meat and large amounts of fal ill order to make the fatty skin pltl:uable, it is important to render as much fat as possible. Duck has a high percentage of bone and fat to meat; for example, a 4-pound duck will serve only two people, while a 4-pound roasting chicken will serve four people.
Goose A goose (Fr. oie) contains onl)' dark meat and has very fatty skin. It is usually roasted at high temperatures to render the fat. Roasted goose is popular at holidays and is often served with an acidic fntit based sauce to offset the fattiness.
TABI.E
17.3 ""'
1'0/1 1/& Goose
GOOSE ClASSES
Class
Description
Age
Weight
Young
Rich. tender wrk me-Jt \\ith la,rge amounts of fat ; e:lsily dented windpipe Tough flesh and hard windpipe
6 months or less
6-12 lb.
Ch·er 6 months
10-16 lb. (0-7 kg)
Mature
C'!Oking Method
(l.5-5.5 kg)
Roost ~ I hiSth Icmperature. accompany with 3cidic.'iiluc:a Braise or stcw
Guinea
Young Guinea
A guinea or guinea fowl (Fr. pil/fade) is the domesticated descendam ci 1 game bird. It has both light and dark Illeat and a flavor similar 10 phea5all. Guinea is tender enough to salLIe. Because it contains little fat, a guinea is tNIally barded prior 10 roasting. Guinea, which is relatively expensive, is nct l\ popular here as it is in Europe.
POULTrir '"""
17.4 .n-.
381
GUINP,\ CLASSF.5
Description
Age
\\!cight
Cooking Method
Tender meat; flexible breastbone , Tough flesh; hard breaSibone
3 months O....er 3 months
12 oZ.-1 lb. 8 oz. (.3-.7 kg) 1-2 lb. (.5-1 kg)
Bard and roast; saute Braise or stew
17.5 .n-.
PIGEON CLASSES
Description
Age
Weight
Cooking Method
Immature pigeon; very tender, dark
4 weeks Over 4 weeks
12 oz.-I Jb. 8 oz. (.3-.7 kg) 1-2 lb. (.5-1 kg)
Broil, roast or saute
flesh and :t small amount lof fal Mature bird; coarse skin and tough flesh
lJiJise or stew
Pigeon The young pigeon (Fr. pigeon) used in coounercial food service operations is Itferred \0 as squab. Its meat is dark, tender and well suited for broiling, sauteing or
Squab
fOiSting. Squab has very little fat and benefits
fran barding.
Turkey Twi:ey (Fr. dillde) is the second most popular poultry kind in the tniled Slates. II has both light and dark meat and a relativel}' small 1IOOI.1I1[ of fat. Younger lurkey is economical and can be prepared in aImoSI any manner.
TIllE 17.6 .n-.
TuRKEY CLASSES
Oass
Description
Ago
Weight
Cooking Method
~Iroaster
Immature bird of either ¥x (males are called toms); tender meat with smooth skin; flexible breastbone Tender meat with smooth skin; lessflexible breastbone
16 weeks or less
4-9 lb. (2-4 kg)
Roast or cut into scallops and saute or pan-fry
8 months or less
8-22 lb. (3.5-10 kg)
Roast or S\<.-w
Young
\'adm,
Fully ""lured biro; re,son,bly lond"
IS months or less
1(}...30 lb. (4.5-13 kg)
Roast or stew
MIrure
meat and slightly coarse skin Older bird with coarse skin and tough flesh
IS months or older
10-30 lb. (4.5-13 kg)
Slew, ground or used in processed products
382
~
CHAPTER 17
-
A TURKEY BY ANY OrnER NAME . In Food 111 His/ory, Reay Tannahill explains why we call a turkey a turkey and not a peru. Thrke}'S were known as /lew/oil to 16th-<entury native Central Americans. They were first brought to Europe by retuming Spanish explorers early in the lSOOs. Thrkish merchants visiting Seville, Spain, on their joumeys to and from the eastem Mediterranean brought these exotic birds 10 England, where the English dubbed them "turkiecocks." This was eventually shortened 10
"turkeys." The Thrks called these tw; "hindi," suggesting that they believed ~id; originated in India (as opposed to the Indi51. This was a belief shared by Ihe French." called the bird coq d'h/de, which was II! corrupted to dil/de or dil/doIl. ThE Germa follO\\'ed sllit, calling the bird iI/duma H~II1I , as did the Italians. who called ilp. (/'lntiia. Meanwhile, in India, the bird" called a perll~which was a little closer. the geographical mark.
Ratites Ralites are a family of flightl ess birds with small wings and flat b reast~ They include the ostrich (which is native to Africa), emu (native to Australil and rhea (native to South America). Ratite meat, which is classified as red meat, even though it is poultry flesh, is a dark , cherry-red color with a flavor similar to beef, but a little sweeter. It is low in fat and calories, Most ratite meat is from birds slaughtered at 10 to 13 months of age. It is generally cut from the back (which conOstrich" tains the very tender tenderloin), the thigh (also known as the fa n) and the leg, and is available as steaks, fil ets, medallions, roasts, cubes or ground. Ratite meat is often prepared like veal. The more tender cuts, such as that from the back or thigh, can be marinated and then cooked by dry-heat coot· ing methods, especially broiling and grilling, roasting and pan-frying. BeClW it h'IS lillIe fal, care must be taken to avoid overcooking, and these produal are usually served medium rare to medium. Tougher cuts, such as those froo the leg, are best ground or prepared with combinalion cooking mel hods.
Livers, Gizzards, Hearts and Necks Livers, gizzards, heans and necks are commonly referred to as giblets , Although most poult ry kinds lIre sold with giblets, chickens can be purchased with or without them, depending on your needs. Giblets can be used in a variety of ways. Gizzards (a bird's second stomach), hearts and necks are most often used to make giblet gravy. Gizzards are sometimes trimmed and deep-fried; heans are sometimes served sauteed and creamed.
383
POULTRY ,--o;a.
are very flavorful and can be added to stocks for flavor and richness.
\t.'('h
IiIt'1'S. heans and gizl.'lrds are not added to stocks, however, because of their
troog fla\·ors. Olicken livers are oft en used in pates, SJut["ed or broiled with onions and itfIl'd :b an entree. IoitGms ~ gr:IS
is the enlarged liver of a duck or goose. Considered a delicacy Roman times, it is now produced in many parts of the world, indud~ the United States. Foic gras is produced by methodically fattening the kds by force-feeding Ihem specially prepared corn while limiting their acIroir!', Fresh foie grns consists of two lobes that mus! be separated, split and O:\'eined. Good foie gras will be smooth. round and puny-colored. It should fkX be rellow or gr:liny. Goose foie gras is lighter in color and more deliat~ in flavor than th:H of duck. Duck foie gms has a deeper, winy flavor lid is rar morc common than goose foie gras. Fresh faie gras can be ,med, roa~led, sauteed or made into paleS or terrines. No matter which cooking method is used, care must be taken not to overcook the liver. Foie ~ G so high in fat that overcooking will result in the liver actually melti!g 3.l\'a)'. Most fai e gras used in this country is pasteurized or canned, Canned faie grns may consist of solid liver or small pieces of liver compxted to fonn a block. Canned foie gras mousse is also available. Tnlffies In' 3 nalUfJl accompaniment to foie gras and are lLsed in many Clnned ftt'IWJlions. IP:t'
NlJI'RrrION
Dllck Fofe Gras
.Po,.
PooItr}' is an economical source of high-quality protein. Poultry's nutritional \llues are similar to Other mealS, except tbat chicken and turkey breast meal isJol\'er in fat and higher in niacin than other le:1O meats. (Compare Table 12.1 _til Table 17.7.) Generally, dark meat contains more niacin and riboflavin tlun white meat.
T!BI.E 17.7
"'"
Ntn'RITIONAL VALUES OF POULTRY
Fu 1 02. (28 g) BOOked poultry with skin
Protein
Kcal
(8)
49
5,9 4.9 3.3 4.5 7.4 5.2 6.2 5.5
Olden, breast Oiden. thigh IW< Goo«
60 115 105
OM
36
""b
S3
Me). b"",
45 41
n.ker. kg
Total fal (g)
Saturated rat
Cholesterol
Sodium
(8)
(mg)
(mg)
2.6 4.3
O.S 1.2
IS 24
11.2
3.7 2.8
IS 22 IS
O.S 6.7 2.0
0.5
22 23 21.7 mq IS
1.9
0.6
20
9.5
n' 2.4
"" COI'!!II1P T. ,velzer blcycloped/fl oj Food Ikllm's 1992: ostrich l'alues from Texas A & M Unil'ersity. 199-l. IIq '"
measurable quantity,
b\11
dat3 is unal';tilablt!
21
n, mq 17 21
384
. CIW'/'ER 17
INSPECJJON AND GRADING OF POULTRY ~
Inspection An poultry produced for public consumption in the United States is subjea I:' USDA inspection. Inspeaions ensure that products are processed under ~ sanitary guidelines and are wholesome and fit for human consumption!dspeClions do nO( indicate a produd's quality or tenderness. TIle round insptl tion stamp illustrated in Figure 17.1 can be found either on a tag anachelll the wing or included in the package labeling.
FIGt'RE 17.1 USDA Inspection Stamp Jor It)ll/(,)'
Grading Grading poultry is voluntary but virtually universal. Birds are gf3ded accon:li!J! their overall quality with the grade (USDA A, B or C) shown on a .shiel shaped tag affixed to the bird or on a processed product's packaging. See Ilure 17.2. According to the USDA, Grade A poultry is free from deformities, with dlrl flesh and a well-developed fat layer; free of pinfeathers, cuts or tears ken bones; the carcass is free from discoloration and, if it is frozen, free fn>defects that occur during handling or storage. Nearly all poultry used in I\w.. sale and retail ow lets is Grade A. Grade Band C birds are used primaril)' ~ processed poultry products. Quality grades have no bearing on the product's tenderness or flaI"Cl A bird's tenderness is usually indicated by its class (for example, a ")'Illtf lurkey~ is younger and more tender than a yearling). Its grade (USDA A. BI' C) within each class is determined by its overall quality. 10
ard;-
FIGtIRf. 17.2
Grade St({I11/J for USDA Grade
A POllltry.
PURCHASING AND STORING POULTRY .m-, """"'" === OF
A IIIJTORY POUlTRY SAf'lJ71' M EASURES
1926-An outbreak of "(0\\] plague" in the NCY.' York Central Railroad Y:uds prompted the passage of legislation requiring inspection of all poulll)' intended (or interstate or foreign commerce. 1957-Poultry Products Inspection Act extended inspection lav.'S to include ante- and iX'S1-monem inspections as well as inspection of slaughter lUld processing facililies. 1968-Wholesale Poullry products Act extended inspection laws [0 aU poult!)' prodUCIS intended for interstate and intrastate conunerce; the law requires that all poultry m:uketed in the United States be processed under S:lnitaIY conditions and be free from
disease.
Purchasing Poultry Poultry can be purchased in many fonns: fresh or frozen , whole or cut J4i bone-in or boneless. portion controlled (P.c.), individually quick frozen OQf or ground. Chicken and turkey are also widely used in prepared and coon nience items and are available fully cooked and vacuum-wrapped or Ilooet and canned. Although purchasing poultry in a ready-to-use form is CO!lI"enim, it is not always necessary: Poultry products are easy to fabricate and pooi:r Whole fresh poultry is also less expensive than precut or frozen products. As with meats, yuu ::ohou[t! t:unsider your menu, labor costs, storage fd ties and employee skills when deciding whether to purchase whole fresh roo Iry or some other form.
Storing Pouth)' Poultry is highly perishable and particularly susceptible (0 contamin3tioo" 5.1lmonella bacteria. It is critical that poultry be slored at the correct ternpet'! lures. Fresh chickens and other small birds can be stored on ice or at 3!'F-34'f (OOC-2°C) for up to two days; larger birds can be stored up to four day.\. these temperatures. Frozen poultry should be kept at OaF (-ISOC) or beIoI
POUU1{"
~,
385
colder Ihe beller) and can be held for up to six months. It should be t'd gradually under refrigef3tion, allowing two days for chickens and as .b four days for larger birds. Never attempt to cook poultry that is still ~- frozen: It will be impossible to cook the produa evenly. and the areas I\t'I'C still frozen Illay not reach the temperaUlres necessary to destroy iIlfullxtcteria. Never partilllly cook poultry one day and finish cooking it B:tcteri:l are more like[}' to grow under such conditions.
~~. the information in Chapler 2, Food Safety and Sanit:ttion, before
lI:ht'ring any [Xlultry. Be sure that all work surfaces, cuning boards, knives, ~ and other equipment used to prepare poultry produ<'1s are de:lI1 :H1d ~rr Be careful lhill juices and trimmings from poultry do not come in rooct with miter foods. An ything coming in contact with raw poultry should ~ cleJned and sa nitized before it comes in cont,tct with any other food. AXIkt'd foods should never be placed in containcrs thai were used 10 hold r.J1\' product, Kitchen towc[s thai are used 10 handle poultry or dean up fter hutchering should be s,mitized before being reused 10 prevent crossmmin3tion.
BWCHERING PROCEDURES ....dtr\- is easier to butcher tha n mealS and is oflen processed on·site. You ..dd be able to perfoml the following commonly encountered procedures . . Ilt1SC
the different kinds of poultry are similar in stmcture, these procedures biRb.
~~ to a \'ariety of
i'mDURE FOR CmlNG 1\ BIRD IN
IWF
00en the first slep in preparing pou ltry is 10
CUI the bird in half. Broiler and are oflen split to make twO portions. This procedure removes . ~ hacklxme and breltst bo ne (a [so known as the keel bone) for a neal finbhrtJ product.
mt'l' chickens
J. Square up the bird by placing it on it:. back and pressing on the ~ and breast 10 creale a more uniform appearance.
2. Place Ihe bird on its breast and hold Ihe tail tigluly with the thumb and forefinger of one hand. Using a rigid boning knife and in a single swifl movement. cut alongside the backbone from the bird's tail to head.
3. La}'
the bird flat on the CUlling board and remove the backbone by cutting through the ribs connecting it 10 the breast.
386
ClWl'ER Ii
4. Bend the bird back. breaking the breast bone free.
5, Kun your fingers :Ilong the txme to separale the brC'Jst meat from it ; pull the oonc completely free. Be sure 10 remove the flexible tan ilage completely .
6. Cut through the skin to separate
the bird into t\\'o halves. Ththalvcs arc ready to be cookedb a more anmctive presentation. foll ow sleps 7 and 8.
., 7. Trim off the' wing tips and the ends of the leg OOne.
8. !\'Iake a slit in the skin below the leg and ruck the leg oone into the slit. PROCEDURE FOR ClIITL'G A BIRD 1~'fO PI EC~~
This is one of the most common butchering procedures. It is also vcr)' siflll* once you understand the bird's structure and are able \0 find each of its ~~
1. Remove the leg by pulling the leg and thigh away from the breast and clItting through the skin and flesh toward the thigh joint.
POUURI' ~
1 Cut down to the thigh jOint, twist the leg to break the ~jm and cut the thigh and leg from the carcass. Be careful 10 (rim around the oyster meat (the tender morsel of meat located next to the backbone); leave it aaachcd to the thigh . Repeat with the other leg.
387
3. To split the breast, follow steps 2 through 6 for cutting
a bird in half. Cut the breast into two halves.
4. The bird is now cut into four quarters.
j.
To cut the bird into six pieces, Sep"lTale the thigh from the leg b}' making a cut guided by the line of fat on the inside of the thigh lind leg.
6. To cut the bird into eight pieces, separate the wing from the breast by cutting through the jOint, or split the breast, leaving a portion of the breast meat attached to the wing.
388
ClIAFlER 17
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING A BONELESS BRF.ASf
A boneless chicken breast is one of the most versatile and IXlpular JlOOIe! cutS. It can be broiled, grilled, baked, sauteed, pan-fried or poached. BoneIei! turkey breast can be roasted or sliced and sauteed as a substitute for veal. l1t skin can be removed or left intact.
I . Remove the keel bone from the bone-in breast,
following steps 4, 5 and 6 for clitting a bird in half.
2. With the chicken breast lying skin side down, separalt the rib bones, wing and wishbone from the breast. Leave the two tender pieces of meat known as thetenderloins attached to the breast. Repeat the procedure on the other Side, being sure to remove thr: sm:dl wishbone pieces from the from of Ihe breas!.
.J. The skin may be left intact or removed to produce a skinless boneless breast.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING A SUPREME OR A1RJ.lNE BREAST
A chicken supreme or airline breast is balf of a boneless chicken breast I\iIh the first wing bone attached. TIle tip of the wing bone is removed, yielding a neat and attractive ponion that can be prepared by a variety of cooking metbods. TIle skin can be len on or removed.
POULTRY
I. Rt'l1lOre the legs from a chICken f~lo\\ing Meps I and 2 for cutting 3 hin! into pieces. Place the bird
389
2. Cut along one side of the breast bone, separating the meat from :he bone.
on it:; lXlCk. Locate the wishbone, trim around it and remove it.
l following the natural curvature of tk rihs. continue cutting to rl'lllOl'e the meat from the bones.
" Break the join! and pull the meat and ~kin back 10 expose a clean 000e. Trim the wing bone.
4. When you reach the wing joint, cuI through the joint , keeping the wing attached to the brellst portion. Cut the breast free from the carcass.
7. The supn?rne
Gin
be prepared
skin-on or skinless.
5. Make a CU I on the b;\ck of the joint between the first and second wing bones.
390
CIW'TIiH 17
PROCEDURE FOR BO,"NG A CHICKEN LEG Chicken breaslS are usually more popular th:m legs and thighs. There.ll't howc\'cr. uses for boneless, skinless leg and thigh meat; they CJn be srufft.'d used for ballmines. for example.
I . Carefully cUl1hrough the skin. meal and tendons a1 the base of the leg. Be sure to cut through
completely 10 the bone.
3. Working from the inside of the thigh, cui along both sides of the thigh bone. separating it from the meal.
2. Pull the skin off the leg wi(h),001 hands, then break the ;oinl
between the leg and thigh. Twig and pull oUllhe leg bone.
4. CUi around the cartilage al the joint between the leg :lnd thigh and remove the thigh bone and cartilage.
MARlNAJ7NG POULTRY 1\-[051
poultry is quite mild in flavor, so a marinade is often used
10
add Haw'
and mOisrure, especially 10 poullry that will be broiled or grilled. Barberueo chicken is a simple and popular example of marinated poultry. Other pouM marinades can be a mixture of white wine or lemon juice, oil, salt, pepper. herbs and spices, such as that given in Hecipe 17. 1.
•
POU/JR)'
""""" = = = = = = =
A
RECIPE 17.1
WHI11i' WINE MARINADE
Yitld: 1 qL (! II)
Garlic. minced Onion, small dice Dr}' white wine &)' lea\'(~s
Dried thyme \fhile pepper Sail lemon juice \'egetable oil
5 oz. 24 oz.
10 ml 150 g 750 ml
2 2 !Sp. lisp. 1 l1)sp. 1 oz.
2 10 ml 5 ml IS ml 30 ml
4 oz.
120ml
2lsp.
L Combine all ingrediems. /WOIlIlUIe '"llues per 1-07.. (30-g) scIV(ng, Calorlt."!I 35. Total fat 3'; g, $aturaled fal 0 g, Choles· tnI 0 mg, Sodium 220 mg, ToUI carboh)"drales I g. PTOiein 0 g. Claims---flo saturated fat; no no laIgar, 10.... caloric
PouItr,' absorbs flavors quickly, so if pieces are lefl 100 long in an acidic mnnade. Ihey may take on undesirable flavors. Two hours is often sufficient, 11h smaller pieces requiring less lime in the marinade than larger ones. If the marinade contains oil, drain it we:l to avoid flare-up when the ilem &pbredon the broiler or grill. Use a clean kitchen towel or a paper towel 10 '1lt't"lCess moisture from the poultry's surface so thai it browns more eaSily. h marinade can be used to rnlste the ilem during cooking, but leftover mariDade should not be served uncooked or reused because of the danger of bactrial contamination from the raw poUltry.
MPlYlNG VARIOUS COOKING METHODS .n-, The prinCiples of cooking discussed in Chapter 9 and applied to meats in wher chapters also apply 10 poultry. Dry-beat methoos are appropriate for JlllI1g. tcnder birds. Moist-he:lI methods should be used with older, less1tnder products.
fJr;'-Heat Cooking Methods Cooking poultry with dry-heat methods-broiling and grilling, roasting, wteing, pan-frying and deep-frying-presenlS some unique challenges. Large 1Ws like IUrkeys benefit from low-heal cooking but are bener when served .ilI the crispy skin gained Ihrough higher temperatures. Duck and goose m contain a great deal of fa! that muSl be rendered during (he cooking jIOCt'SS. Small birds such as squab must be cooked at suffiCiently high temperarures 10 criSp their skins but can be easily overcooked. Boneless chicken lreasts, IXlrlicularly flavorful and popular when broiled or grilled, are easily O'.ercooked and become dry because they do not contain bones 10 help retain rooi5ture during cooking. Proper application of the following dry-heat cooking ID!thods will help meet these challenges and ensure a good-quality finished jXOOUCl.
• 391
392 ""'
CI!
Bro;!il1g and Grilling Broiled and grilled poultry should have a well-browned surface and can sIxw crosshatched grill marks. II should be moist, tender and juicy throughout.) may be seasoned to enhance ils namral flavors or marinated or baSied '. any number of flavored butlers or sauces.
Selecting POll/try 10 Broil or Grill Smaller birds such as Cornish hens, chickens and S<jllab are especialJr III suited for broiling or grilling. Whole birds should be split or CUI into small::! pieces before cooking; their joints may be broken so that they lie flat. QJd and Other small birds can be skewered before being broiled to help them ad; evenly and retain their shape. Be especially careful when cooking breast jXt lions or boneless pieces: The direct heat of the broiler or grill can ol'em:d the item very quickly.
Seasoning Poultry to be Broiled or Grilled Poultry is fairly neutral in flavor and responds well to marinating. Poultnmay also be basted periodically during the cooking process with flavored (u. ter, oil o r barbecue sauce. At the very least, broiled o r grilled poultry shcOJ be well seasoned with salt and pepper juSt before cooking.
Determining Doneness With the exception of duck breasts and squab, which are sometimes I!i pink, broiled or grilled poultry is always cooked well done. This makes tIr poultry particularly susceptible to becoming dry and lOugh because it corum little fat and is cooked at very high temperatures. Particular care must be !ilia to ensure that the item does n(){ become o\'crcooked. Four methods are used 10 dClennine the do ncness of broiled or grilled ~
1. Touch-When the item is do ne, it will have a firm texture, resist premr and spring back quickly when pressed with a fi ngcr. 2. Temperature-Use an instant-read thermometer to determine the item'siIo ternal temperature. This may be difficult, however, because of the iten!'! size and the heat from the broiler or grill. Insert the thermometer in tIr thickest part of the item away from any bones. II should read J65°F-Fiff (74°C-77°C) at the coolest point.
3. Looseness of the joi1/t~Whe n bone-in poultry is done, the leg will begin 10 move freely in its socket.
4. Color of the j uices-Poultry is done when its juices rtm clear or show jI& a Ir"Jce o f pink. TIlis degree of done ness is known in French as Ii poill
Accompaniments to Broiled find Grilled POIl/tlJl If the item was basted with an herb butter, it can be served with additiooll bUller; if the item was basted with barbecue s.auce, it should be selyed . . 111 the same sauce. Be careful, however, that any marinade or sauce that came in contact with the raw poultry is n(){ served unless it is cooked thoroughly stroy hannful bacteria. Additional sauce suggestions arc found in Table iOj Broiled or grilled poultry is very versatile and goes well with almost at!! side d ish. Seasoned and grilled veget:lbles are a natural accompaniment,:mi deep-fried polatoes are commonly served.
10«-
PROCEDURE FOR BROILING OR GRilliNG POULTRY As with meats, broiled or grilled poultry can be prepared by placing it directl! o n the grate. Poultry is also often b ro iled using a rotisserie.
POULJ1i1' '"""
the broiler or grill. a wire brush to remove any charred or burnt particles that may be M to the broiler or grill grate. The grate can be wiped with a lighdy Jed towel to remove any remaining particles and help season it Prtpare the item to be broiled or grilled by marinating or seasoning as ~: it may be brushed !ighdy with oil to keep it from sticking to the
11'"
I Pbre the item on the grate, presentation side (skin side) down. Following lbeexample in Chapter 9, turn the item to produce the attraaive crosshatch IIWks associated with grilling. Baste the item often. Use longs to tum or !lip the item without piercing the surface so that juices do not escape. SDerelop the proper surface color while cooking the item until it is done d [.Oilll. To do so, adjust the position of the item on the broiler or grill, or adjust the distance between the grate and heat source. Large pieces and rone·in pieces that are difficult to cook completely on the broiler or grill (lfl be finished in the oven. Acommonly used procedure to cook a large volume of poultry is to place it 5eaSO!led items in a broiler pan or other shallow pan and then place the
p;ndirectJy under the broiler. Baste the items periodically, ruming them once items begun this way can be easily finished by msferring the entire pan to the oven.
.un they are halfway done.
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 17.2
GRILLED SQUAB WI11I BASIL Blf1TER rl(\d: 4 Servings ~b,
whole
fresh oosilleaves
'White Wine Marinade (Recipe 17.1) 5311 and pepper Bas~ butter
4
4
16 I pI. IT 6 oz.
16 450 ml IT 170 g
/. Remove the backbone and breast bone from each squab. The birds will lie nat and remain in one piece. l ~!Jke a slit below each leg and tuck the leg bone into the slit. j Carefully slide two basil leaves under the skin over each breast to cover the meal.
J. J\Iarinating the squab in white
wine marinade.
f. ~!arinate the squab in the white wine marinade for 1-2 hours.
S Heat and prepare the grill. , Rerr!o\'e the squab from the marinade and pat dry. -. Melt approximately 4 ounces (120 grams) of the basil butter, leaving enough for eight thin slices to be served with the finished dish. a Brush the squab with basil butte( and place it skin side down on the grill. GriU the squab, turning once and basting periodically with the melted basil butter. Finish in the oven if necessary. , Selw the squab with a slice of basil butter melting over each breast.
wmmutl' \'J.lues per servillg: Calorlcs 690. TOIaI fat ~ g. Satul"3lcd fat 26 g. Cholesterol 260 mg. 5Ddmm 107(1 mg. Totlll carbohydratcs 0 g. Protein ((l g. Vitamin A 40%
2. Drying the squab.
393
394
CIW'/FJ/ 17
3. Brushing Ihe squab with the
4. Grilling the squab.
melted basil butler.
5. Serving the squab with a slice basil bUlter.
Roasting Properly roasted (or baked) poultry is attractively browned on the surface lender and juicy throughout. Proper cooking temperatures ensure a crisp lerior and juicy interior. ~IOSI roasled poultry is cooked until the tum
clear. Squab and duck breasts are exceptions: TIley are often served medi. rare or pink.
Selecting Poultry 10 Roml Almost every kind of poultry is suitable for roasting, but younger binbfID
duee a more lender fini shed product. Because of variations in fal content ferent kinds of poultJY require different ro.lsting temperatures and proct'dJ.g
PROCEDURE FOR TRUSSING POULTRY Trussing is lying a bird into a more compact shape with thread or bu!dr
{wine. Trussing allows the bird 10 cook more evenly, helps the bird ntl moisture and improves the appearance of the finished product. There I't man~' methods for trussing poultry, some of which require a SpeciallOC called a trussing needle. Here we show a simple method using butcher twine.
1. Squ:Lre up the bird by pressing it
fimlly with both hands. Tuck the first joint of the wing behind the back or !rim off tlte first and second joinlS as shown.
2. Cut a piece of butcher's (wine approximately three times the bird's length. With the breast up and the neck toward you, pass the twine under the bird approximately I inch (2.5 cemimeters) in front of the tail.
J. Bring the twine up around the Jegs and cross the ends, creatin~ an X between the legs. Pass the ends of the twine betow the ~
POULlRI'
to
Puilihe ends of the twine tightly the leg and thigh joints and :KTOSI. the wings if the first and '('CQnd joints are trimmed off, or iU-'iI above the wings if they are
;KffJSS
5. Pull the string tight and tie it securely just above the neck.
UltJCl.
IieasOllillg Poultry to be Roasted ,\.Illlough the mild flavor of most poultry is enhanced by a wide variety of ~ and spices, roasted poultry is often only lightly seasoned with salt and xpper, Poultry that is roasted at high temperatures should never be seasoned • h herbs on its surface because the high cooking temperatures will burn iJll11l, If herbs or additional spices are used, they should be SlUffed into the ,mil' ,\ mirepoix or a bouquet garni may also be added to the cavity for admuI O:l\·or. TIle cavities of dark-meated birds such as ducks and geese are 1I~'!l stuffed with fresh or dried fruits.
&mfillg POllltlJlto be Roasted Guineas. squabs or any skinless birds without an :Idequate fat covering to them from drying out during rO:lsting can be barded, llard the bird by rowing its entire surface with thin slices of fatback , securing them with ~·s twine. See p.age 270. ;"(l~t'\1
Cookillg Temperatures ')m.,11 birds such as sqllab and Cornish game hens should be roasted at the rtUlil'Cly high temperatures of 375°F-400°F 090°C-200°C). 111ese tempera.~ help produce crisp, well-colored skins without overcooking the flesh. OIickens are best roasted at temperatures between 350°F :lnd 375°F lKlfC-I9Q"C). This temperature range allows the skin to crisp and the flesh kI cook without causing the bird to stew in its own juices. Large birds such as ,~ and turkeys are staned at high temperatures of 4()()OF-425°F .'OO"C-22O"C) to brown the skin, then finished at lower temperatures of !'1'F-325"F (J35°C- I60°C) to promote even cooking and produce a moisler ,..woo. Ducks and geese, which are very high in fat, must be rO:lsted at the ',.:It tt'tTlperatures of 37soF-425°F (I90°C-220°C) 10 render as much rat from 'It ~kin as possible. Duck and goose skins are often pricked before roasting 10 thaI the rendered fat can escape; Ihis helps create a crisp), skin.
iklslillg Roasted POllltlJ1 W'rth the exception of fany birds such as ducks and geese, all poultry items \boUld be basted while they roast in order to help ret:lin moisture. To baste :1 'inl. spoon or l:ulle the fa! th:t\ collects in the bottom of the roasting pan over the wat IS-to-20-minute intervals. Lean birds that are not barded will not produce mJgh f:ll for basting and may be brushed with buller in the same manner.
395
6. Two examples of properly lnlssed birds: one with the wings intact and one with the first and second wing joints remo\·ed.
396 '"""
CIMlnR 17
TABLE
17.8
,n, ROASTL'G TEMI'E1WUREs AND TIMES
Poultry Kind or Class
Cooking Temperatures
Minutes per lb. (500Sl
Capons
35(}-375°F
Chickens Ducks and geese
37)-400°F
180-190°C 190-2000 (
18--20 min. 15-18 min.
37)-400°F
190-2200( 190-200"C
Squab
37)-400°F 40()Of
190-2000( ZOO°C
Turkeys (large)
325°F
160°c
12-15 min. min. 100ai 18-20 min. .30--40 min. total 12-15 min.
Game hens Guine:ls
37)-425°F
45-60
Determining DOlleness Four methods ,Ire used to determine the doncness of roasted fX}ultry. It ~ best \0 use a combination of these methods. 1. Temperat llre-Test the internal temperature of the bird with an instanHt'ad thermometer. The thermometer should be inserted in the bird's thigh, whij
is the last part to become fully cooked. It should not louch the lxme am should read 16S"F-170°F (74°C-7rC) al the coolest paint. This method wOOs best with large birds such as capons and turkeys. L1rge birds are subjectlO some degree of carryover cooking. This is not as much of a concern wo poultry as it is with meat because large birds are always cooked well done 2. Looseness o/the joil/ts-The thigh and leg will begin 10 move freely in thei sockets when the bird is done. j. Color o/Jllices-This method is used with birds that are not stuffed. Use a kitchen fork to tilt the bird, allowing some of the juices that have collroll.! in the cavity to mn OUI. Clear juices indicate that the bird is done. lrllr juices are cloudy or pink, the bird is undercooked. 4. Time-BeGtuse there are so many variables, timing alone is less retial*: than other methods . It is useful, however, for planning production wl"l.'ll large quantities are roasted and as a general guideline when used I\idI other methods. Table 17.8 gives some general timing guidelines for ('(INing several kinds of poultry.
Accompaniments to Roasted Poultry Dressing--aIlOlM- nllme for (j brmd sluffing
IISed u7~h poultry.
The most common accompaniments to roasted poultry are bread stut'liJi and gravy. Large birds, such as capons and turkeys, produce adequate drippings for making sauce or pan gravy. Small birds, such as squab and Comi
Small birds such as Cornish game hens, small chickens and squab can tt stuffed successfully. Sruffing larger birds, especially for volume production, ~ imprJctical and can be dangerous for the following reasons:
POUL71IY
"'"
397
L'tilling is a good bacterial breeding ground, and because it is difficult to
,ootroltemperatures inside a stuffed bird, there is a risk of food-borne illness. 1'i:ffing poultry is labor intensive. j
Met! poultry mUSt be cooked longer to cook the stuffing properly; this Hause the meat to be overcooked, becoming dry and tough. Sluffing :my bird, use the following guidelines:
L \lways be aware of temper-Hures when mixing the raw ingredients. All in~ts
should be cold when they are mixed together, and the mixture's
tmper.lrure should never be allowed to rise above 45°F (7OC). 1 ~uIT the raw bird as close to roasting time as possible. j The neck and main body C'Jvities should be loosely SlUffed. The stuffing
,ill expand during cooking. t \Iter the cavities are filled , their openings should be secured with skewers m:I butcher's twine or by trussing. S.Uter cooking, remove {he Sluffing from d:e bird and store separately.
MlluRE FOR ROASTING POULTRY L ~, IxIrd, stuff and/or truss the bird as desired.
1 Pbce the bird in a roasting pan. It may be placed on a mck or a bed of mirepoi"l: in order to prevent scorching and promote even cooking.
1 bst uncovered, basting every 15 minutes. t b' the bird to rest before carving to allow even distribution of juices. As
!he bird rests, prepare the pan gravy or sauce.
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 17.3
ROAST TURKEY WITH CHESTNUT DRESSING AND GIBLET GR4W lkld: 16 portiOn.H oz. (120 g) turkey, 3 oz. (90 g) dressing, 4 oz. (120 ml) gravy. i'oongturkey, 12-15 lb. (;.:>-65 kg) with giblets ~(and pepper \lirl'poix
Onion, small dice Celery, small dice lJhoIe butter Dried bread cubes Eggs, beaten Fresh parsley, chopped Oticken stock Cht.'SInuts, cooked and peeled, chopped coarse .\II.purpose flour
J. Placing the trussed turkey in the
IT 20m:.
8 oz. 6 oz. 4 oz. 2 lb. 2 1 Thsp. 2 1/4 qL
8 oz . 3 oz.
roasting pan.
I IT
600g 225 g 180 g 120 g I kg 2 15 ml 2 It 225 g
90g COlltilllled
2. Adding the mirepoix to the roasting pan.
398
C~~J7
I . Remove the giblets from the lurkey's cavity and set aside, Season It. turkey inside and out with salt and pepper. TnlSS the turkey. 2. Place the turkey in a roasting pan. ROllS\ al 400°F (200°C) for 30 minut~ Reduce the temperature to 325°F (160 0 C) and continue cooking the turk! to an imernal temperature of 16O"F (7 1°C), approximately 2 I! \0 hours. Baste the turkey often during cooking. Approximately 45 min
befoTe the turkey is done, add the mirepoLx 10 the roasting pan. If Ilk
J. 4.
5.
6. 7. j.
Tossing (he dressing ingredients together.
8. 9.
10.
11. 12.
turkey begins to overbrown, cover il loosely with :tiuminum foil. To make the dressing, 5.1ute the diced onion and celery in the butter llflll tender. In a large bowl, toss together the bread cubes, salt, pepper, eggs. ~ sauteed onions and celery, 4 ounces (120 milliliters) of chicken sICxk the chestnuts. place the dressing in a buttered hotel pan and cover with aluminum or buttered parchment paper. Bake at 3S0°F (I80°C) until done, 3pp1Ulr mately 4S minutes. As the rurkey roasts, simmer the giblets (neck , helt" and gizzard) in quan (J liter) of the chicken stock until tender, approximatel}' I I 2 In. W'hen the turkey is done, remove it from the roasting pan and set ;I: to rest. Degrease the roasting pan, reserving 3 ounces (90 grams) d fa t to make a raux. Place the roasting pan on the stove lap and brown the mirepoix. Oeglaze the pan with a small amount of chicken stock. Transfer the mn poix and stock to a sallcepo!:, and add the remaining stock and the t.nf from the giblets. Bring to a simmer and degrease. !'I lake a blond rOllX with the reseryed fat and the flour. Add the rQIIl the liquid, whisking well to prevent lumps. Simmer 15 minute:,. SU-din gravy through a china cap lined with cheesecloth. Remove the meat from the (LITkey neck , Trim the gizzard. Finely choplb neck meat, hean and giz7.ard and add to the grav)'. Adjust the seaCarve the (LITke), and serve with a ponion of chestnut dressing and gJb gmv)'.
ApPJ'Q)limate values pcr serving: Calories 720, Total fat 23 g. Saruratcd fal 9 g, Cholesterol !.'< Sodium 700 mg, TOlal carboh)'t1 rales 41 II. Protein 87 g, Vitamin A 6%, Iron 40%
4. Browning the mirepoix.
5. Deglazing the roasting pan.
6. Transferring the mirepoi.'i: and stock to a saucepol.
7. Straining the gravy through 1 china cap and cheesecloth.
POU/J1II'
399
Carf'illg Roasted Poullry Poohr), can be carved in the kitchen, al tableside or on a buffel in :I varitfI
of nunners. The carving methods described next produce slices of both Jnd dark meat.
~
rrooo" FOR CARVI' G A TUIill,\"
CAPON OR OTHER lARGE BIRO
I . After roasting, allow Ihe lurkey to stand for 20 minutes
so Ihal the juices ca n redistribute themselves . ]-Iolding
the lurkey firmly with a Cll'ving fork, pry a leg olltward and locale the joint. Remo\'c the leg and thigh in one piece by culting through the joint with the lip of a knife.
1. 1k'Jx.'allhe procedure on the Dlher sKje. Once both legs and thighs haw been remo\'ed, slice the I1le'JI
from the thigh by holding
3- Separ:ue the thigh from the leg bone by cuning through the joint. Slice the meat from the leg by cuning para lleito the bone.
4. Cut along the backbone. following the natural curvature of the bones separ:ning the breast meat from the ribs.
6. Alternatively, the breast can be carved on the bird. Make a horizontal Cllt just above the wing in toward the rib bones.
7. Slice the breast meal as shown.
!he leg firmly with one hand :md ~ing
parallel to the bone.
1 Rrmol"e an entire half breast and ,Ik'e i1 on the CUlling oo.1rd as >hcm1l. CUI on an angle 10 produce larger slices.
400
~
CHAPTER 17
PROCEDURE FOR CARVL'G A CHICKEN OR OTHER SMALL BIRD
1. After allowing the roasted chicken to rest for 15 minutes so that the juices can redistribute themselves, cut through the skin between the leg and breast.
2. Use a kitchen fork to pry the leg and thigh away from the breast. !..ocate the thigh's ball joint and cut through it with the knife tip, separating it completely from the rest of the chicken. Be sure to cut around the delicate oyster meat, leaving it attached to the thigh.
j. With the knife tip, cut through UI!
4. Cut through the wing joint, separating the breast meat and wing from the carcass. Repeat this procedure on the other side of the bird.
5. The chicken is now quanered.
6. To cut it into eight pieces, sepa-
skin and meal on one side of tIr breast bone. Cut and pulilhe meal away from the bones \\;m the knife.
rate the wings from the breasts and the thighs from Ihe legs.
Sauteing SaliTeed poultry should be tender and juicy, its flavor developed by ~ browning. Additional flavors come from a sauce made by deglazing the pan. usually with wine, and adding garnishes, seasonings and liquids. Stir·frying! a popular methcxl of Sauteing poultry; boneless pieces are cui into strips ZIII quickly cooked with assoned vegetables and seasonings.
Selecting Poultry 10 Saute Most poultry is quite Tender and well suited for sauteing. A1lhough SImI birds such as squab can be sauteed bone-in, large pieces and bone-in OJ from larger birds should not be £.1uteed. Boneless breasts, supremes, SC2Iq! and cutlets are the mOSt common and practical cuts for sauteing. Because 1M are high in fat , boneless duck breasts (called magrers) can be sauteed \\itOOl additional fat.
POUL'TRI' ~
Stosonillg PoultrJl to be Sauteed Puultr), has a delicate flavor that is enhanced by a wide variety of herbs, condiments and marinades. Flavor combinlttions are limited only by 1001" im:lgination. When (X)ultry items are dusted with flou r before s.'tutCing, tIr seasonings may first be added to the fl our. tp.'l'S.
Cooking Temperatures The saute pan and the cooking fat must be hot lx:fore the poultry is added. at which the poultry is then s.·lUteed is determined by its Iti.:kness and the desired color of the fin ished product. A thin, boneless slice RqUires relati\'ely high temperatures so thm its surface is browned before the MIlL'!· is overcooked. A thicker cut such :IS :I supreme requires lower temperlUteS so that neither its surface nor the fond are burned before the item is &dI)- cooked. Adillst the temper:t1ure throughout the cooking process in order II achicl"c the desired results, never letting the pan become too cool. If the pan is overcrowded or otherwise allowed to cool, the poultry will cook lIi1sown juices and absorb oil from the plln, resu lting in a poor-quality product.
n... tempernturc
Detenllilling Doneness Thin cuts of poultry cook very quickly, ~ liming is a useful tool; it is less Il'fful with thicker cuts. Expericnced cooks can tell the doneness of an item by J,llging the temperature of the saute pan and the color of the item being cooked . .\ more practical method is to press the item with your finger and judge the 1NSIa1lCe. Very undercooked poultry will offcr liule resiSlance and feel mushy. SIiWttlr underdone poultry will feel spongy and will not spring back when your • r, removed. Properly cooked poultry will feel fiml to Ihe lauch and will .-mg rock when your finger is removed. Overcooked poullry will feel very b. almost hard, and will spring back quickly when your finger is removed.
Accompaniments to Sau/eed POllltry. \1Ult"W poultry is usually served with a 5.1UCe made directly in the pan in ltoclt the item was cooked. The sauce uses the fond for added flavor. A wide n6:'t)- of ingredients, including gllrlic, onions, shallots, mushrooms and tomak:t. are commonly added 10 the pan as well :IS wine and stock. Table 10.5 ~ sevcml sauces for sauteed poultry. liauteed items are often served with a starch such as pasta, rice or pOtatoes. PmoiJRE fOR SAlJfEING POUIJRY
l Heat a saute pan and lldd enough fat or oil to just cover the bottom.
1.
_~dd
the poultry item, presentation side down, and cook umil browned.
J Tum the item, using tongs or by tossing the item back upon itself using the pan's sloped sides . .. utgl't items em be finished in :m oven. Eilher place the saute pan in the OItfi or transfer the (X)lIltry to another pan. TIle latter procedure allows a ~uce to be made in the original pan as the poult!)' cooks in the o\'en. lioId SIl1:lller pieces 1hat are thoroughly cooked in a warm place so that the p:1O can be used for making the sauce.
1iIxmL'Rf. FOR
PREPARING A S,IUCE IN TilE SAlJfE PAN
l Pour off any excess fat or oil from the 5.1ute pan, leaving enough to Saute the saucc ingredients. 1. AtId ingredients such as garlic, shallots ;lOd mushrooms that will be used as garnishes and sauce flavo rings; saute them.
401
402
ClWWll7
Deglazc the pan with wine, stock or other liquids. Scrape the pan, loosening the fond and allowing it 10 dissolve in the liquid. Reduce ,he liquid. 4. Add any ingredients thaI do nO! require long cooking times such as herbs and spices. Adjust the sauce's consistency and seasonings. 5. For service, the poultt)' can be returned [0 the P;1n for a moment to reheJ it and 10 coal it with the sauce. The poultry should remain in the sauce long enough [0 reheat. Do not attempt to cook the poultry in the sauce. j,
6. Serve the poultr)' with the accompanying sauce.
,.., ======= RECIPE 17.4
CHICKEN SAUTE WIlli ONIONS, GARLIC AND BASIL Yield: 6 Servings I . SaUieing the breasts in buner.
2. The fond left in the pan after s3lL1eing the chicken.
j. Sauteing the onions and garlic.
4. Oeglazing the pan wilh while wine and lemon juice.
Chicken breasts, boneless, skinless, approx. 8 oz. (250 g) each Salt and pepper Flour Clarified butler Onion. small dice Garlic doves, chopped Dry white wine Lemon juice Tom:uo concassee Chicken stock Fresh basil leaves, chiffonade
3 Tr as needed I oz. 2 oz.
6 4" oz.
3 Tr as needed 3Q ml
60g 6 120 ml 15ml
I Thsp. 6 oz. 4 oz.
120 ml
6
6
lSI) g
1. Split the chicken breasts and remove the Cllltil:tge connecting the rv.
halves. 2. Season the chicken with 5.1.lt and pepper: dredge in flour. j, Saute the breasts in the butter, browning them and cooking ii {JOilll. He in :l warm place. 4. Add the onions and g'lrlic to the fond and butter in the pan; saute until onions are tr:mslucent. 5. Deglaze the pan with the while wine and lemon juice. 6. Add the tOmato concassee and chicken stock. Saute to combine the fl!1" reduce the sauce to the desired consistency.
5. Adding the tomatoes and chicken stock and sauteing 10 combine the flavors.
6. Returning the chicken to the pal to rcheat.
POUl77lY
.'di;I
the basil to the sauce and return the chicken breasts for reheating. Ad-
P.ISI
the seasonings and serve 112 breast per portion with a ponion of the
s.m.
...... '...n I~ (I·H-g) sefYing: CaIor~ 230. Total fal 8 g, Saturated fat 35 g, coo.. "", W.,< '''''"m 5&l mg, TOiai carbohrdrale!'l 9 g. Protein 30 g. Vitamin C liM. Iron 10%
poultry shou ld be juicy. Its coating or batter should be crispy, golden nOi excessively oily and free from any breaks that allow fat to peneBoth the poultry and the coating should be well seasoned .
Selecling Poullry to Pml -Fr" The most common pan-fried poultry is fried chicken. Young tender birds Im'os,nall pieces produce the best results. Other cuts commonly pan-fried boneless portions sllch as chicken breasts and lurkey scallops.
_ning POUltryl to be Pall -Pried ~ Pan-fried poultry is usually floured , breaded or bauefed before cooking. and batters are discussed in Chapler 21 , Deep-Frying.) Typically, ";~:~~;:a:;re~added 10 Ihe flou r, breadlng or bauer before Ihe poultry is II i can be a blend of any nllmber of dried herbs and spices. only salt and pepper are required because the poultry will be served sauce or (){her accompaniments for additional flavors.
Cooiing Temperatures The fal should always be hot before the poultry is added. The lempermure it is cooked is determined by the length of time required to cook it *",ghl!y. Pan-frying generally requires slightly lower temperaRlres than for sauteing. Within this range, thinner items require higher temto produce good color in a relatively short time. Thicker items and containing bones require lower cooking temperatures and longer cook-
m. Determining Do1lelless EI-en the largest pan-fried items may be too small to be accurately tested instant-read thermometer. and using the touch method can be difficult ~clmg"IOt" because of the amount of fat used in pan-frying. So, timing and are the best tools to determine done ness. Thin scallops cook very . so it is relatively easy to judge their doneness. On Ihe other hand, chicken can take as long as 30-4; minutes to cook, requiring skill and to determine doneness .
.....P<mi',rell!/slo Pall -Fried POUIt,,1 pan-fl)'ing does not produce fond or drippings that can be used 10 a sauce, pan-fried poultry is usually served with lemon wedges, a veggarnish or a sepll ....Jtely made sauce. Fried chicken is an exception; it is served with a cOllntry g....Jvy made by degreasing the pan, making lI'ilh a portion of the fa t and adding milk and seasonings.
403
404
~
CHAPTER 17
PROCEDURE FOR PAN- FRYING POUlTRY I . Heat enough fat in a heavy saute pan to cover the item to be cooked ooe quaner to halfway up its side. The fat should be at approximately 325'f
060'C). 2. Add the floured, breaded or battered item to the hOI fat. being careful IX to splash. The fat must be hot enough to sizzle and bubble when the ilt'II
is added. 3. Turn the item when the first side is the proper color; it should be half cooked at thiS point. Larger items may need to be turned more than onct to brown them properly on all sides. 4. Remove the browned poultry from the pan and drain it on absorbent paper.
============ ~ ==========='I RECIPE 17.5
PAN-FRIED CHICKEN WITH PAN GR4JIY Yield: 8 2-piece Servings Frying chickens, 2 lb. 8 oz.-3 lb. each (1.1-1.4 kg), cut in 8 pieces Salt and pepper Garlic powder Onion powder Dried oregano Dried basil Flour Buttermilk Oil Onion, small dice Half-and-half or chicken stock
I . Dipping the chicken pieces in the
buttermilk.
2. Dredging the chicken in the flour mixture.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
2
2
IT 2 !Sp. 2 !Sp.
IT
liSp. 1 !Sp.
9 1/2 oz. 8 oz. as needed 4 oz. I 1/2 pI.
10 ml 10 ml 5ml 5 ml 270 g 250 ml as needed 120 g 750 mI
Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Add the herbs and spices to 8 ounces (250 grams) of the flour. Dip the chicken pieces in the buttermilk. Dredge the chicken in the seasoned flour. Pan-fry the chicken in 1/4 to 1/ 3 inch (1 centimeter) of oil until done. proximately 40 minutes, turning so that it cooks evenly. Reduce
3. Adding the chicken
10 the oil. The bubbling fat indicates the proper cooking lemperdture.
4. Turning the chicken so that it cooks evenly.
POULTRY ~. 3-, necessary to prevem the chicken from becoming tOO dark. Or remove !he chicken when well browned. drain it and finish cooking it in the
m"'.
, To Il1.'Ike the p.1n gravy, pour off all but 1 1/ 2 ounces (45 grams) of oil from the p:m. carefully reserving the fond. ". Add the diced onions and sautc until translucent. 8. Add I I '2 ounces (45 grams) of flour and cook to make a blond roux. ~ \\hbk in the liquid and simmer approximately 15 minutes. la *'Jin through cheesecloth and adjust the seasonings, II. St'r\'e 1/4 chicken (2 pieces) per person with 4 ounces (1 20 milliliters) gt.JI)'.
5. Sauteing the diced onions until translucent.
'IM~ latlJ(.'S per 7-oz, (2IZ·g) )erving' Calorlc:s 5tO, Total fat 4.5 g, Saturnled fat I g, Cho. kIItrol UIllj(. Sodium 7780 mg, Total carbo h}'drnlc:!l 1M g, Protein 13 g
IJois/-Heat Cooking Methods moisl-heat cooking methods most often used with poultry are poaching .,inuncring. Poaching is used to cook tender birds for short periods. Sim'
~
AxJcbillg alld Simmering .Khed or simmered poultry should be moist, tender and delicately flavored. )Ugh cooked in W:lter, overcooking will cause the poultry to become dry ,j tough. During cooking, some of the poultry's flavor is transferred 10 the .)\;ing liquid, which Clln be us<.'
,liefeclillg /'011/11)1 10 Potleb or Simmer Young birds arc best suited for poaching; boneless chicken pieces :Ire the )S[ commonly used pans. Older, tougher birds are usually simmered. Duck 00 gt'C:!iC are rarel ~1 poached or simmered because of Iheir high fat content. Seasolling /'olillry 10 be Poacbed or Simmered 'l1ll.'1I JX)aching poultry, it is especilllly impon:ml to use a well-seasoned highl)' flavored liquid in order to infuse as much flavor as possible into ;Iem being cooked. Either strong stock with a sachet or a mixture of stock Voller and white wine with a bouquet gami or onion piquel produces good ,Ilt, The poultry should be completely covered with liquid so that it cooks t""~' Howc\er. if 100 much liquid is used and it is not strongly flavored, fla!Ill)' I): leached out of the poultry, resulting in a bland fin ished product. Poultry is oftcn simmered in water instead of stock. A sachet and a genermircpoix should be added 10 help flavor il. Typically, simmering birds re,in a strong broth thai may be used to complete the recipe or resen'ed for Ik1
U.x~
Cookillg Temperallires For best results, poultry should be pollched lit low temperatures, between Fand !7;"F (70"C-8Q"C). Cooking poult!)' to the proper doneness ;It lhese .tpt·rall1rcs produces a product Ihal is moist and tender.
6. Adding the liquid to the roux.
405
406
CHAPl1!R J7
Simmering is done at slightly higher lemper:llures, between 185°F UWO and the boiling point. When simmering, do not allow the liquid to boil,asw may resuli in a dry, laugh and stringy finished product.
Determining Doneness Poached pouluy, whether whole or boneless, is cooked jusl until done.\I instant-read thermometer inserted in the thigh or thicker pan of the lid should read 165°F (74°C). Any juices that run from Ihe bird should be c1eara show only a trace of pink. Simmered pauliry is llsually cooked for longer periods to altow the nne heat to tenderize the meal. A chicken Ihal weighs 3 pounds 8 ounces (lj lli grams), for example, may lake 2 1/2 hours to cook.
Accompaniments 10 Poacbed and Simmered PoultlJl Poached or simmered poullry can be served hot or cold. The meal ifill these birds can be served cold in salads, hot in casseroles or used in an)" that calls for cooked poullry. Poached items are typically served with a flavored mayonnaise or a made from the reduced poaching liquid, such as sallce supreme. Pou~ I also often poached as a means of producing a low-calorie dish. If so, aItt etable coulis makes a good sauce, or the pouliry can be served with a patd of ils cooking liquid and a vegetable garnish. Simmered poullry to be served cold wiJl be moisler and more fla\'orful H is cooled in irs cooking liquid. To do so, remove Ihe pol containing the ~ and the cooking liquid from the heat when the bird is still slightly _ cooked. Cool the meat and brolh in a water bath foll owing the procedures I Chapter to, Stocks and 5.1uces. Once cooled, remove Ihe meal and wipe" any congealed broth before proceeding with the recipe.
PROCEDURE FOR POACHING OR SIMMERIN'G POUlTRY
1. Cut or truss Ihe item
10
be cooked as directed in the recipe.
2. Prepare the cooking liquid and bring it to a simmer. Submerge the poultry
in the cooking !iquid, or arrange Ihe items to be poached in an apPl'OlXlZ pan and add the poaching liquid to the pan. j. Poach or simmer the item to the desired doneneS5 in the oven or on the stove top. Maintain the proper cooking temperamre throughout the process. 4. Remove the poultry and hold it for service in a ponion of the cooking liquid or, using an ice bath, cool the item in its cooking liquid. 5. The cooking liquid may be used to prepare an accompanying sauce or reserved for use in other dishes.
""' ====== RECIPE 17.6
POACHED BREAST OF CHICKEN WITH TARRAGON SAUCE Yield : 8 Scrvings Chicken breasts, boneless, skinless, approx. 8 oz. (250 g) each \'l;!hole buller
4 I 1/2 oz.
POULTRY ~h and white pepper lIhite wine Chicken stock Bay leaf Dried Ihyme Dried tarmgon FIoo, Hl'all' crcam rn:~h tarragon sprigs
1T 4 oz. 1 pI. I
114
407
1T 120 ml 450 ml I
~p.
1 tsp. 10z. 4 oz. as needed
1ml 5 ml 30 g 120 otl as needed
1. Trim any rib meal and fat from the breasts. CUI the breasts into two
pitceS. removing Ihe strip of canilage Ihal joins the halves. 1 Sdect a pan that will jusl hold the breasts when they are placed close to-
j!ether. Rub the pan with approximately 1/2 ounce (I5 grams) of buner. !it:ason the chicken breasts with salt and pepper, and arrange them in the huuered pan, presentation side up. i ,~dd the white wine, stock, bay leaf, thyme and dried tarragon. S Cut and butler a piece of parchment paper and cover the chicken breasts. , Bring the liquid to a simmer and reduce the temperature to poach the chicken. i. \IJke :I blond roux with 1 ounce (30 grams) of butter and I ounce (30 grams) of flour: set aside to cool. 8. 'Mien Ihe breasts are done, remove them from the liquid. Thicken the liquid with the roux. Add the cream. Simmer and reduce to the desired conj.
1. Arranging the breasts in an
appropriate pan.
\L5I.ency. ~ ~rain
[he sauce through cheesecloth and adjust the seasonings. III Sl!Tve each half breast napped with approximately 2 fluid ounces (60 milliliters) of sauce; garnish each ponion with a sprig of fresh tamlgon. >lIIWt.'
IIwroI W5
\'Jlues per 4-()Z. (l 15·g) 5efVing: Calories 250. Total rat 13 g, Samrated fat ~ g. ChoSodium 590 mg. Total carbo hydrates 4 g. Protein 29 g. Vibmln A 11:m
~
2. Adding the white wine, chicken stock and seasonings to the pan.
j.
CoI'ering the breasts with a piece ofbunered parchment paper.
4. Adding the cream to the thickened sauce.
Combination Cooking Metbods :C'.Iting and Slewing use both dry and moist hem 10 produce a moist. flavor-
. product, The principal difference berween braising and slewing when apIlt'd 10 mealS is the size of the cut being cooked: Large CUIS of meat are
5. Plating the poached chicken breast.
408
~
CHAPTER
17 braised; smaller ones are stewed. Because most poultry is relatively smaU. ~ distinction does not readily apply in poultry cookery; therefore, the twO coo\:. ing methods are discussed together here.
Braising and Stewing Braised or stewed poultry should be moist and fork tcnder. The poultry is always served with the liquid in which it was cooked. Ducks and geese art braised or stewed in much the same way as red meats . Chicken cacciatore, CCll au vin and chicken fricassee are examples of braised or stewed chicken disl"d
Selecting Poultry to Braise or Slew Braising and stewing, being slow, moist cooking processes, are ofteo thought of as a means to tenderize tough meats. Although they can be usedro tenderize older, tougher birds, these cooking methods are more often selerud as a means of adding moisture and flavor to poultry that is inherently lenM such as young ducks and chickens. Typically, the birds are disjointed aM cooked bone-in, just until done, so that they retain their juiciness.
Seasoning Poullry to be Braised or Slewed Braised or stewed items obtain much of their flavor from the cooking liquid and other ingredients added during the cooking process. The main flt'll and the cooking liquid should be well seasoned. If other seasonings such:li an onion piquet, sachet, bouquet garni or dried herbs and spices are required. they should be added at the beginning of the cooking process rather than J the end. This allows the flavors to blend and penetrate the larger pieces ci poultry. If the poultry is dredged in flour prior to browning, seasonings IlIIT be added directly to the flour. As with all dishes using combination COO" methods, the finished dish should have the flavor of lhe poulll)' in the S31Kt and the moismre and flavor of the sauce in the poultry.
Cooking Temperatures Some recipes, such as chicken cacciatore and coq au vin, require the mU! item to be thoroughly browned during the initial stages; others, such 11 chicken fricassee, do not. In either case, after the liquid is added, it is imjKf tant to maintain a slow simmer rather than a rapid boil. This can be done III the stove tOp or in the oven. Low temperatures control the cooking and pr0duce a tender, juicy finished product.
Determining Donel1ess Tenderness is the key to detennining doneness. It can be determined by 0serting a kitchen fork into the poultry. There should be little resistance, lDi Ihe poultry should freely fall off the fork. The pieces should retain their s~ however; if they fall apan, they are overdone. Small boneless pieces can!t tested by cutting into them with a fork.
Accompaniments 10 Braised or Stewed Poult1J! All braises and stews are cooked in a liquid that results in a sauce or b~ served as part of the finished dish. Rice, pasta or boiled potatoes are natural ac· companiments 10 almost any bra ised or stewed dish, as are boiled vegetables.
PROCEDURE FOR BRAISING OR STEWING POUrfRY 1. Sear the main item in butter or oil, developing color as desired. 2. Add vegetables and other ingredients as called for in the reCipe and saUie
POUL71Il' ""-
409
J .\dd nour or roux if used. .\dd the appropriate liquid. 1. Con'1' and simmer on the stove tOp or in the oven until done. t .\dd seasonings and garnishes at the appropriate times during the cooking i
1'fOC"'.
• Finish the dish by adding cream or a liaison to the sauce or by adjusting its coo:;islency. Adjust the seasonings. I ~e a ponion of the poultry with the sauce and appropriate garnish. ~ ============= RF.r.TPF. 17.7
CHICKEN FRICASSEE 'itld: 8 2-piece Servings
Fr}ing chickens, 2 lb. 8 oz.-3 lb. each (1.1-1.4 kg), cut into S pieces 'i.lh and white pepper Clarified butter Onion. medium dice F1oo, Dry white wine Chicken stock \acht1: 8:1)' leaf Dry thrnlC Peppercorns, cracked Parsley stems Garlic dove, crushed Hr:l\'}' cream \utmeg
2 1T
2 1T
3 Ol. 10 Ol. 3 Ol. Sal.
90ml 300 g
1 ql.
90S 250 ml 1 It
1
8
2 ml 2 ml 8
Sal.
250 ml
1T
1T
1/2 ISp. 1/2 ISp.
1
the chicken with salt and white pepper. 1. Saute the chicken in the butter without browning. Add the onions and continue to saute until they are tra nslucent. J Sprinkle the nOllr over the chicken and onions and stir to make a rOllx. Cook the rOllx for 2 minutes without browning . .;, lA'glaze the pan with white wine. Add the chicken stock and sachet; season with 5.111. Cover and simmer until done, approximately 30-45 minutes. I. Season
1. Sprinkling the flour o\'cr the
chicken.
3, Deglazing the pan with white wine. COl/til/l/ed
1. Sauteing the chicken and onions
in butler.
4. Removing the chicken from the pot.
410
~
CHAPTER 17
5. Straining the sauee through cheesecloth.
6. Rcturning the chicken to the sauce to reheat it for sen'ice.
5. Remove the chicken from the pan and hold in a warm place. Strain !hi sauce through cheesecloth and return it to a clean pan.
6. Add the cream and bring the sauce to a simmer. Add the nutmeg and IU just the seasonings . Return the chicken to the sauce to reheat it for senict Approximaw values per 8-oz. (253·g) :;erving: Calorieli 700, Total fat 20 g. Satura ted fat12g.Oit lelitero l 60 mg, Sodium 7950 mg, Total carbohydrates tl3 g, Prote in 15 g, Vitamin A 20'11
tfjONCLUSION Jrh The renowned French gastronome and author Jean-Anthelme Brillat-S3\01!l (1755-1826) once observed that "poultry is for the cook what canvas is fOfIb. painter." He meant, of course, that poultry, including chicken, duck, goo!{ guinea, pigeon and turkey, are wonderfully versatile foods that can be coolel by almost any method and with almost any seasonings, and can be st'I"It'J with many accompaniments and garnishes.
,! :?2UESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION Jrh 1. List the six categories or kinds of poultry recognized by the USDA. How III these categories then divided into classes?
2. How should fresh poultry be stored' Discuss several procedures that M be followed carefully when working with poultry to prevent cross contamination.
3. What is a supreme? Describe the step-by-step procedure for preparing a chi~ken
supreme.
4. What is trussing? Why is this technique used with poultry? 5. Which poultry items are best suited for broiling or grilling? Explain your :mswer. 6. Describe the characteristics of properly roasted poullry. Which classes r:J. poultry are recommended for roasting? 7. What is foie gras? Why must you be extremely careful when cooking foie gras?
POULTRY ~
TTTC>V
RECIPES ,n.,
RECIPE 17.8
ROAST D UCK WIlli ROSTI POTATOES N OT£.:
'Ibis tfisb appears in tbe Cbapltr (:,ening phoIograph.
TIlE FOUR SEASONS, NEW YORK, NY Chef Christian Albin ~"kld :
Method: Roasting
4 Servings
Ducks, 4 1/2 lb. (2 kg) each Marinade: Fresh ginger, peeled and sliced thin Garlic doves, unpeeled and halved Orange zest, julienne Coriander seeds, crushed Black peppercorns Soy sauce Honey jasmine tea leaves, loose Szechuan pepper SUgared Orange Zest and Orange Sauce (recipe follows)
2
2
1 oz. 1/2 orange 2 tsp. 1 112 (Sp. 8 oz. 2lbsp. 4 Thsp. 1 Thsp.
30 g 2 1/2 orange 10 m! 8 ml 250 ml 30 ml 60ml 15 ml
as needed
as needed
2
I. CUt the wings off the ducks at the second taint and reserve. Remove the
fat from the ducks' cavities. 1 Place the ducks on a rack in the refrigeratOr, breast sides up, a few inches apan. Air must circulate around the ducks so that the skin will dl)'. Leave the birds for 3 days. J. Combine all the marinade ingredients and refrigerate for 3 days, stirring daily. 4. Prick (he duck skin with 11 knife point, except for the skin on the breast. Avoid lOuching or pressing on (he breasts, as this will leave dark spots after roasting. 1 Place the ducks on a rack over a shallow pan. Strain the marinade and brush it liberally over the entire surface of both ducks. Spoon the remaining marinade into the ducks' cavities. , let the ducks dry, breast side up, on the rack for 15 minutes. Scr'Jpe any marinade drippings from the pan iOlo the cavities. 7. Adjust the oven racks so that one is at the lowest level and the other is direaly above the first. , Place 3 quans (3 liters) water in a roasting pan and add the tea leaves. Place the pan on the lower rack of a 350°F (lSOOC) oven. ,. Position the ducks on the higher oven rack directly over the roasting pan (the ducks should not be touching). Roast undisturbed for I 1/2 hOUTS. I. Remove the ducks from the oven. Drain and reserve the juices that have accumulated in the cavity:IJ. Sprinkle the ducks with the Szechuan pepper; allow them 10 rest, then (':lIVe.
COlltilllUXj
411
,
412
("'0.
CHAPTER 17
12. To serve, spoon a layer of Orange Sauce over the bottom of a warmrd serving platter, 13. Arrange a pair of drumsticks. wing bones and thighs at each end eX ~ planer. place the breast in the center and garnish with orange segmertI. Sprinkle with the Sugared Orange Zest. Serve the duck with riisti pcrnco (Recipe 23.13) and the remaining 5<1UCe on Ihe side. Appn>xiJTJ3te \';llues per serving; CaIorlt':!J IZOO, Total fat 20 g. SalU raloo fat 4.5 g. Cholesltro! lJ11 mg, Sodium 950 mg. Tow carboh)'dr.lles 7 g. Prolcln 249 g. \'ilami n A 15~
SUGARED ORANGE ZEST AND ORANGE SAUCE Yield: 12 oz. (3;0 g)
Oranges Sugar Sugar Grand Mamier Currant jelly Basic Duck Sauce, hOI (recipe follows) Lightly salted butter Kosher salt and black pepper
2
2
3 oz.
90g
as needed 2 Thsp. 2 Thsp. 12 oz. 1 oz.
as needed 30 ml 30 ml 350 ml 30 g
IT
IT
1. Remove Ihe zest from the oranges and julienne. Blanch for 3 minuto I boiling waler; drain. 2. Squeeze the oranges and boil the juice until reduced by one quarter 3. Place 3 ounces (90 grams) of sugar and 8 ounces (250 milliliters) of V.M in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the julienned zest. Boil until dr
syrup begins to caramelize, turning light brown. 4. Have a bowl ready with a layer of granulated sugar. Remove the zest mthe syrup and toss in the sugar until the zest is completely coated. Set dr zest aside to cool. 5. Continue cooking the syrup until it becomes a dark caramel syrup. Stir iI the Grand Mamier, cmrant jelly and reduced orange juice. Whisk IIIIi smooth. 6. Pour in the Basic Duck Sauce and whisk until smooth, Cook for a few ntiDutes to thicken slightly. Monte au beurre and season with salt and pePiXf. Approximate values per serving' Calories 100, Total fat 3 g. SalUrated fal 1.5 g. Cholestuol lO ... Sodium 350 mg, Toml carbo hydrates 17 g. Protein 2 g. Vllamin A 10%. CbJms-l.ol>' fa~ Ioo·~ lesicroJ
BASIC DUCK SAUCE Yield: I 1/2 pI. (700 ml)
Vegetable oil Necks and wing tips from 2 ducks Celery, chopped CatTOl, chopped Onion, chopped Bay leaf Mushrooms, large, halved Garlic cloves Black pepper, crushed - Whole doves Tomato puree Flour Dry red wine
Ilbsp.
15ml
3 oz. 3 oz.
90g 90 g
6 oz.
180g
I
I
3
3 4
4 I 11)sp.
15 ml
6
6
2 ·11)Sp.
30 ml 30 ml 250 Illi
21bsp.
8 oz.
.----------------mutl1l)' '""" 4J3 Brown \·eal slock (ality juices reserved from 2 roasted ducks
2 pI.
900 ml
1 Heat the oven to 4000F (2OO°C). 1 Heallhe oil in a large saute pan. Add the duck pieces and saute until they lre well caramelized. Place the pan in the oven and roast the duck pieces for 2; minutes at 3SOOF 080°C), stirring occasionally. 1 Add me celery, carrot, onion, bay leaf, mushrooms, garlic, pepper and doves. Roast for 5 minutes. 4. Place the saute pan on the stove top and add the tomato puree. Sprinkle the flour over the mixture and stir. " .o\dd (he fed wine and brown stock Stir; bring to a boiL Reduce the heat and simmer for 3 hours. , Stir in the cavity juices and cook for 10 minutes more.
1. Strain the sauce through a china cap into a saucepan. Press a ladle against the solids 10 remove as much liquid as possible. & Degrease the sauce and reduce until thick. ~e l':llues per serving: Calories 40, Total fal I g, Satun.tN tal 0 g. Cholesterol 5 mg . ..... loi(} mg, Total. carboh)·dn.t~ 5 g. Proleln 2 g, Vitamin A 10%, ClaiOl$-f"lO saturated fat; III" Ill; \09. rItoItserol; low c:tlorie
=========== ~ ============ RECiPE 17.9
RoAsT CORNISH GAME H EN Willi WILD RiCE STUFFING Method: Roasting
Ylrld: 6 Servings Whole bulter, melted Onion, fine dice Mushrooms, chopped 'CUd rice, cooked Dried thyme, cnlshed Dried marjoram, crushed Salt and pepper Rock Cornish game hens
6 oz. 3 oz. 6 oz.
180 g
90g 180 g 3)0 ml 2 ml 2 ml
I 1/2 c. 1/2 !Sp. 1/2 !Sp. IT
IT
6
6
L Saute the onions and mushrooms in 2 ounces (60 grams) of melted butter until tender. Cool. 1 Stir in the rice and herbs and season to taste with salt and pepper. J. Stuff the cavity of each hen loosely with the rice mixture. Truss and place in a roasting pan. t Brush the hens with the reln.1ining butter and season with sail and pepper. Roast at 400"F (2O()OC) for IS minutes. 1 Reduce the oven temperature to 300°F OSOOC) and roast until {he juices run dear, approximately 30 minutes. Basle two or three times with melted buller. ' $m·e the hens with a pan gravy or a sauce made separately, such as mush· room sauce.
.. ""
Appolimllt' I"".Ilucs ]X... J4-(1z. (419·g)·.scrving: Calories 970. Total fat 65 g, saturated fat 26 g. CIIobttro1 330 mg. Sodium 1580 mg, Total catboh)·drates 12 g. Protein 86 g. Vitamin A 35%.
414 ~ ClIAPlER 17
============= ~ =========== RECIPE 17. JO
COQ AU VIN Method: Braisin8
Yield: 8 2-piece SClVings
Lardon- MGVlI cui in/() 1/<1 m. x //4 in. x 2 in. (6 mm x 6 mm x 5 an) SIri{JS; ustJ 10 moisJetl bmW dishes and slews.
Chickens,2 lb. 8 oz.-3Ib. (1-1.4 kg) Flour for dredging Salt and pepper Clarified butter Brandy Bouquet gami: Carrot stick, 4 in. (10 em) Leek, split, 4-in. (IO-cm) piece Fresh thyme Bay leaf Garlic cloves, peeled and crushed Red wine Chicken stock Bacon lardons Pearl onions, peeled Mushrooms, medium, quanered Beurre manie Large triangular crouto ns
2
2
as needed IT 2 oz. 4 oz.
as needed IT
60ml 120ml
1 1 1 sprig 1
1 sprig 1
6
6
24 oz. 8 oz. 4 oz. 18 10 as needed 8
)00 ml 250 ml 120g 18 10 as needed 8
1. Cut each chicken into 8 pieces and dredge in fl our seasoned with sal! ani pepper. 2. Heat the clarified butter in a braising pan; brO\vn the chicken. 3- Add the brandy and ignite. When the flame d ies, add !.he bouquet ga.'ll garlic, red wine and chicken Stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simm 4. Cover the pan and simmer until the chicken is tender, approximate!)" minutes. 5. In a separate pan, saute the bacon until the fat begins to render. Add IIr o nions and saute until they begin to brown. Cook the bacon and arm covered, over low heat, until the onions are tender. Add the mushroD caps and cook them until lender. 6: Remove the chicken from the pan and adjust the sauce's consistency ~1i the beuffe manie. Strain the sauce through a china cap and adjuSt the sosanings. 7. Spoon the bacon, onions and mushrooms onto a sclVing platter, place IIr chicken over them and ladle the sauce over the finished dish. Sen·e "'. triangular croutons . .... pproximate v;I]ues ]X'T 12.az. (367'g) sclViog: Calori~ 860, TOIal f:1I 51 g, Saturated fa r J Cholesterol 330 mg, Sodium 910 mg, Total carbo hydrates 17 g, I'rotein 83 g, \'itamin AIA Iron 35%
POlllJ'RY C'2\..
I =========== ~ ============= RECIPE 17. 11
CHICKEN CACCIATORE Method: Braising
Yltld: S 2-piece Servings
Fr)ing chickens, 2 lb. 8 oz.-3 lb. each 0.1-1.4 kg) floor Sal! and pepper Olive oil Onion, medium dice Garlic cloves, chopped Mushrooms, sliced Dried Ihyme While wine Srandy Demi-glace Tonulo concassee
2 2 oz.
2 60g
IT 2 oz. 4 oz.
IT
3
3 250 g
8 oz. l/4 ISp . 2 oz. I oz.
16 oz. 12 oz.
60ml 120 g
1 ml 60ml
30 ml 450 ml 340 g
L CuI each chicken into 8 pieces and dredge in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. 1 Heal Ihe oil in a heavy braiser and brown the chicken well. Remove Ihe chicken from the pan. Degrease the pan, leaving 1 labJespoon (15 milliliters) of fat. J Add the onions and garlic and saute lightly. Add the mushrooms and th}1I\e and continue sauteing until the mushrooms are tender. , Oeglaze the pan with the white wine and brandy. Add the demi-glace and tomato concassee. 1 Rerum the chicken to the pan and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook unlil the chicken is done, approximately 30 minutes. , Serve 2 pieces of chicken with a portion of sauce. ~te values per 13-oz. (396-g) serving: Calories 650, Total fat 29 g, Saturated fat 7 g. Cho1tMoI 23S mg, Sodium 500 mg, Total carbohydrates 11 g, Protem 86 g. Vitamin A Iem, Iron 25%
========= ~
======
RECIPE 17. 12
CHICKEN WITH
40
CLOVES OF GARLIC Method: Braising
Yltki: 4 2-piece Servings OUcken, 2 lb. 8 oz. 0.1 kg) (lll
in eight pieces
Dry while wine
floor Sah and pepper Olive oil Garlic cloves, unpeeled Fresh thyme Fresh rosemary
26 oz. as needed
750 ml as needed
IT 2 Thsp.
IT
40 4 sprigs I sprig
40 4 sprigs 1 sprig
30ml
COlUinlled
4J5
416
~
CliAPl'ER 17
French bread croutons fresh parsley, chopped
8 8 as needed for garnish
1. Marinate the chicken pieces in the white wine for 1-2 hours under refit 2.
3.
4. 5.
6.
eration. Remove and pat dry. Dredge the chicken in flour and season lighlly with sa lt and pepper.5aIR the chicken in the olive oil. Remove the chicken from the pan and saute the garlic until it begin! II brown. Place the chicken on tOp of the garlic in a single layer. Add a wine marinade and herbs and cover. Braise in a 325°F (I60°C) oven until tender, approximately 45 minutes. Remove the chicken and garlic from the pan and reserve. Remove and ~ card the herbs. Place the pan on the stove top and reduce the sauce WIi slightly thick. Season with sail and pepper. Serve 2 pieces of chicken and several of the garlic cloves resting 00 l French bread croutons. Top with a portion of the sauce and garnish \lib chopped parsley.
Approximate values per 12.Wz. G78-g) ser\"ing: Calories 600, ToU! fat 18 g. Satuntni faI i ~ Choleslerol 240 mg, Sodium 820 mg. TOIaI ClIIrbo hydr.lles 20 g, Protein 91 g. Vitamin C tl\ Iron 25%
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 17. 13
CHICKEN YAKITORI Yield: 8 Servings
Soy sauce Sake Granulated sugar Chicken breasts, boneless Cornstarch Sesame seeds
Method: Grilling
a oz. a oz.
250 m! 250 ml
oz.
60g
2 lb. I Thsp. I Thsp.
15 mI IS mI
2
I kg
1. Combine the soy sauce, sake and sugar. Reserve 8 ounces (250 millilitml of the mlxture. 2. Brush the chicken with a portion of the reserved soy sauce mixture m! grill over hot charcoal until done, basting regularly. 3. To make the sauce, combine 2 ounces (60 milliliters) of Ihe soy sau"m. (Ure with the cornstarch. Bring the remainder to a boil in a small and stir in the cornstarch slurry. Stirring constantly, continue boiling the sauce thickens. Simmer I minulC. 4. Serve with short-grain while rice and garnish with sesame seeds. Approximate V"~Jues per &oz. (l79·g) serving' Catorle!l 240, Total fat 4.5 g, SalU/"3led fal I g. leslero l 95 mg. Sodium 1700 mg, T~a l ca rbo hydralel 12 g, Protein 37 8
POUlJRY .....~
=========== ~ ============
RECIPE 17.14
CHICKEN AND SNOW PEAS IN BlACK BEAN SAUCE l'kld: 4 Servings
Method: Stir-frying
Chicken breasts, ooneless, skinless Egg white
2 lb.
Chinese rice wine
6 oz.
Coms1a~h
2 Thsp.
50). sauce
2 oz. Ztsp. 2 4 oz.
Granulated sugar Onions, small Pt-anut oil Garlic, minced Fresh ginger, minced Fermented black beans, mashed Snow peas, fresh
I
I Thsp.
2 tSp. 3 Thsp. 4 oz.
I kg I 180 g
30ml 60ml 10 ml 2 120m] 15 m] 10 ml 45 ml 120 g
1 Slice the chicken into thin strips, approximately I 1/2 inches by 1/4 inch (4 centimeters by .6 centimeters). l. Combine the egg white, 1/3 of the wine and 1 tablespoon OS milliliters) of the cornstarch. Add the chicken and refrigerate for 2 hams. 1. For the sauce, mix the soy sauce, sugar and the remaining wine and corn,wcil. t Quarter the onions and separate the layers. 1 Stir-flY the chicken in 3 ounces (90 milliliters) of oil. Remove and set aside. , rr necessary, add all the remaining oil and slir-fry the garlic and ginger for 30 seconds. Add the onions and mashed beans and stir-fry for 30 seconds. .~dd the snow peas and cook for 1 minute. % Rerum the chicken to the wok, add the sauce mixture and stir-fry until hot and the sauce has thickened. & Serve immediately with shan-grain white rice.
,woo"': Add 2 ounces (60 grams) sltced mushrooms and reduce the IOOUnt of snow peas by half. .IfIpaumIt '-alues per serving: Calories 750. Total fal ~ g, Satur.lte
===========
~ ============
RECIPE 17.15
CHICKEN CURRY lirk!: 4 Servings
Onions, small dice Garlic, crushed Ghee (or clarified bUller) Fresh ginger, fine dice Turmeric Coriander seeds, ground
8 oz. 2 tsp. 211)sp. 2 oz. 1 1/2 tsp. 1 1/2 tsp.
250 g iO ml 30 ml
60g 8 ml 8ml COlllil1lwd
4J7
418
~.
CfWTl'ER l7
Cumin seeds, ground Cayenne pepper Fenugreek, ground Coconut milk Roasting chicken, 3 lb. (1.3 kg), cut into 8 pieces Salt Green chiles, slit lengthwise Lemon juice
I tsp. I tsp.
112
~p.
20 oz.
1 !Sp.
3 1 oz.
5ml 5ml 3m! 575 ml 5ml 3 30ml
1. Stir-fry the onions and garlic in the ghee until the onions are goIO:a
brown. 2. To make the wet masala , mLx the ginger, turmeric, coriander. cumin.
3. 4. 5.
6.
cayenne pepper and fenugreek; add just enough of the coconut milk kI form a paste. Add the wet masala to the onions and slir-fry for 8 minutes. Add the chicken pieces and cook, lllrning them frequently , for 6-8 minutCi Add the remaining coconut milk , salt and chiles. Bring to a boil, COlt! and reduce to a simmer. Cook until the chicken is done, approxima.teil" 45 minutes. JUSt before service, stir in the lemon juice and adjust the seasonings. Sent with Saffron Rice (Recipe 23.22) and a chutney.
'"Jtues per scning: Calorics 11 30. Total fat 64 g. Satur:lt~ fal 39 g. cbo~ P mg. Sodium 1070 mg, TOIa I carbohrdr:llcs 52 g, PrOIcln t07 g, Viwnin C 25'1l lron "'(l!to
Approximate
~ ====== RECIPE 17. 16
CHICKEN STUFFED WI11I SPINACH AND RICOTTA CHEESE IN SAFFRON SAUCE Chef Lel(llul Atkinson,
WASJU,~GTO.~, DC
Yield: 4 Sen'ings Spinach, stemmed Ricotta Egg whites, lightly beaten Salt and pepper Airline chicken breast, skin on, 9 oz. (250 g) each Clarified butter White wine Saffron Chicken veloute Heavy cream, hot
Method: Sauteing
lib. 4 oz. 2
450 g 120 g 2
IT
IT
4 2lbsp. I pt. I pinch 8 oz. 2 oz.
4 30 ml 450ml I pinch 250 ml 60ml
}, Blanch, refresh and drain the spinach. Squeeze it tightly to remQ\'e as mlKfl moisture as possible, then chop it finely. 2. To make the smffing, combine the cheese, egg whites and spinach ill I mixing bowl; season to taste.
POULTRY '"""
J Plate the chicken breasts on a cutting board, skin side down. Using a boning knife, carefully make a pocket that runs the length of each breasI. t Put the stuffing in a pastry bag and pipe the stuffing into each pocket. 00 IlOI. overfill the chicken breasts because the stuffing expands as it
rooks. J S3ule the chicken in the clarified butter until well browned. Transfer the chicken to a sheet pan and finish in a 3sooF 080°C) oven, approximately 10-12 minutes. , Deglaze Ihe saute pan with the white wine. 7. Add the saffron, bring to a boil and reduce by half. a Add the veloUie and the cream. Adjust the seasonings and consistency; Slf:lin. l l.adle the sauce onto 4 warm plates. Slice and then arrange the chicken in the sauce; garnish as desired. lj:JroImWe values per 17·m. (5 12.g) sc.ving: Calo riC!! sao, TO(.a1 rat 40 g, saturated fat 16 g, Cho1rJRnlI l65 mg, Sodium 3190 mg, Total carbohydrates 42 g. Prote in 88 g, Vitamin A 110%, Vita· •
Cl~
Iron 3O'Ko
=========== ~ ============ RECI PE 17. 17
R OlllAN- S1YLE FREE-RANCE CHICKEN Chef Odelle /ada of the fonner REX IL RISTORANTE, Los A.\'GEL£S, CA
Method: Sauteing
Yield: 4 Servings 2 Tbsp.
30mi
ExtrJ virgin olive oil Free·range chicken bre:lsl halves, supreme CUI
4
4
~lt
1T
1T
Vegetable or chicken broth Garlic doves, chopped fine Anchovy fillets in oil, chopped fine Fresh rosemary, chopped fine While \'oine vinegar
8 oz. 4
225 ml
3
4 3
1T
1T
2 Thsp.
30ml
J. Saule the chicken breasts in the olive oil; skin side down. Season with saIl. 1 Cook until the chicken begins to brown, then turn it and cook for an additional 2 minutes. j Add the broth and reduce by two-thirds, approximately 5 minutes. 40 Combine the garlic, anchovies, rosemary and vinegar. J When the chicken is done, .. dd the vir.egar mixture 10 the cooking liquid. , Remove the chicken from the heat, slice each breast in 6 pieces and 3rr:lnge on a hal plate. Pour the sallce over the sliced chicken. ~IC valuC!i per 7.5.()z. (227·g) sc.ving: Calories 360, TOIaJ rat 19 g. Saturated fal 4.5 g, Cboo ~ 125 mg. Sodium 820 mg, Tolllt carbohydrates 3 g, Prolein 46 g, Vitami n A 15%
--
4/9
420
~
ClIAPT'ER 17
============ ~ ===========
RECIPE 17.1 8
SAlffEED CHICKEN W/11l KENruCKY BOURBON Yield: I Serving
Method: Sauteing
Chicken breast, boneless, skinless Salt and pepper Flour Olive oil Garlic, minced Shallots, chopped Spinach Kentucky bourbon Chicken stock Heavy cream
I
IT as needed as needed 1/2 tsp. I [Sp. 1 oz. 1 Thsp. 1 oz. 2 oz.
I IT
as needed as needed
2ml 5ml
109 15ml
30 ml 60 ml
1.' Season the chicken breast with salt and pepper and dredge it in flour. Saw
in olive oil until done and remove from the pan. 2. Add the garlic and shallots to the pan and saute until tender. Add Ih:
spinach and 5.1U1e until wihed. 3. Add the bourbon and flame. 111en add the chicken stock and cream m:l reduce umi1 slightly thickened. 4. Rerurn the chicken to the 5.1UCe to reheat. 5. POUf the spinach and 5.1UCe on a plale and arrange the chicken on top. ApPfO.lim;ue values per 9-oz. (28}-g) 5e1>ing: CaIorir:5 670. Total fat 42 g, s..tuntcd be r, Cholesterol 230 mg, Sodium mg, Total c:trbohydratel 15 g. Protein S8 g, ' '1tarninA' Iron 20%
2m
============= ~ ============ RECIPE 17.19
BRAISED CHICKEN WI11l APPLE CIDER AND CASHEW BU7TER Chef lellmd AtkillSOIl, WASJIl.WTO.'l", DC
Yield: 8 Servings Clarified butter Shallots, minced Calvados Fresh thyme, chopped Cashews Honey Unsalted butter Sail and pepper Chickens, 3 lb. 8 oz. ( 1.6 kg) each, quanered Flnllr fnr dredging Mirepoix Garlic head, cut in half Apple cider Cider vinegar
Method: Braising
2 1/2 oz. 2 oz. 12 oz. 2 tsp. 3 oz.
90g
1 Thsp. lib.
IS ml 450g
IT
IT
2 nf'eded 12 oz.
;I~
75 ml
60g 375 ml 10 ml
2 ;IS
needed
350 g
I
I
I pt. I Thsp.
450 ml ISml
POUl.TRY c"'!a.
Oticken stock
3 pc
1350 ml
Ilaj"lea\'es
2 1 sprig
2 1 sprig
as needed
as needed
Frtsh thyme Blood roux
1 To make the cashew butter, lightly saute the shallOl:s in 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) of the clarified buner. Add 4 ounces (120 milliliters) of me CallaOOs and the chopped th)'me and reduce au sec. Remove from the heat and cool. 2 Pbce the cashews in a food processor and process to a medium-fine consIStency. Add the cooled shallots, honey and unsalted butter. Season with 13ltlnd pepper and process well. J Season the chicken with salt and pepper and dredge in flour. 4. Brown the chicken evenly in the remaining clarified butter. 1 Remove the chicken. Add the mirepoix and garlic to the pa n; saute for 1 minutc. , Add thc remaining Calvados, cider and vinegar; reduce by half. 1. Return the chicken to Ihe pan and add Ihe chicken stock and herbs. Cover and braise until done, approximately 15 minutes. Remove the chicken from the pan. Obe breasts and wings will cook more quickly and Olusl be reIJX)l'ed before the thigh and leg pieces.) & Reduce Ihe slock by one half. Use Ihe roux to thicken to a light consislen<)'.
l
~in Ihe sauce, monIC au beurre with the cashew butter and season to tasle with salt and pepper. L1dle the sauce over the chicken and serve at oore.
~Ie \,Iues per 17-ilZ. (5}3-g) .seTVing: Calorics 1265, Tolal ral 73 g, Saruralcd ral 38 g, ChobIeroI -el mg. Sodium 1220 mg. Talal carboh}"dr.uC$ 22 g. Prolein 130 g. Vitamin A 6mb
===== ~ ====== RECIPE 17.20
WARM D UCK BREAST SAlAD WITH ASLIN SPICES AND JlAzELNUT VINAlGRE1TE Ft.T/.ER VINEYARDS, lIoPL\.'.:o, CA
CIlIiIl({ry' Director jolJ/l Ash
Method: Sauteing
rt('" ld: 4 Servings Ilbole booeless duck breasts, 12 oz. (350 g) each .\Ilrinadc: Garlic, minced Greeo onions, minced Oyster sauce ught soy sallce Rice \Vioe or dry sherry Sugar Five spice powder
2
2
I tsp.
5ml 30ml 10 ml 5 ml 5 ml 5 ml 3 ml
2lbsp.
2 tsp. I tsp. I tsp. I tsp. 1/2 tsp.
I
Co /llil/lled
421
422 ..-,
CHAPTER 17
Hazelnut Vinaigrette: Garlic, minced Hazelnut oil Walnut or light olive oil Chives, minced Balsamic vinegar light soy sauce Sugar Mixed baby greens Hazelnuts, toasted, skinned and chopped coarse
I fup.
3 oz. 3 oz. I Thsp. 2 Thsp. I tsp.
I!4
~p.
15ml ml ml 15ml 30 ml 9(1 9(1
5 m[ I
nu
4-6 oz.
12{)-11lO g
2 oz.
60S
I . Trim the excess fat from the duck breasts and separate the breasts
2. j.
4.
5.
jt8)
halves. Combine the marinade ingredients. Thoroughly coat the duck \\ith !Ir marinade and marinate for at least 2 homs. Combine the hazelnut vinaigrette ingredients at least 2 hours before ser.ict so that the flavors will develop. \'(lipe the marinade from the breasts and saute them, skin side down fill in a dry saute pan until medium rare, approximately 2 1/2 minutes ~ side. Do nOt overcook. Arrange a mixture of baby greens on 4 plates. Slice the breaSIS on the
ha.
Approximate value$ ~r \Hlz. (266-g) :>erving: Calories 820, Total fat 68 g, Salllrated fat 10 ~ C» lcs tcrol 23Q mg, Sod ium 240 mg. Tota l carbohydrates 7 g. PTotein 44 g, VI\:tmt" C lIMt, 1roI )"
======= ~ ====== RECIPE 17.2 1
D UCK CONFIT Yield: 4 Servings Duck, , lb. 0.8 kg), cut into 4 pieces Kosher salt Black pepper, cracked Bay leaves Fresh thyme Garlic cloves, crushed Duck or goose fat, melted
I
2 Thsp. l isp.
30 ml 5 Illl
,
,
6 sprigs 6 21b.
6 sprigs 6
900S
I. Rub the duck with the salt. Place skin side down in a roasting pan ~
large enough to hold the pieces in one layer; season with the bl3ck ~ per, crumbled bay leaves, thyme and garlic. Cover and refTigoa overnight. 2. Ba ke the duck at 325°F (I6poC) until brown, approximately 1S-20 minUio. Add enough melted duck 6r goose fat to cover the pieces completely j. Cover the pan and cook in a 300°F 0500C) oven until the duck is der, approximately 2 houTS.
POU/J'RY '"""
t Remove the duck from the fat and place in a deep hotel pan. Ladle enough of the cooking fa t over the pieces to cover them completely. Be careful not to add any of the cooking juices. 1 Con'!' the pan and refrigerate for 2 days to allow the flavors to mellow. , To serve, remove the duck from the fat and scrape off the excess fat. Bake at3;o"F (I8O"C) umilthe skin is crisp and the meat is hot, approximately 30 minutes. \"3lues per serving' Calorlcs 670. Total fal 16 g. Sallrnncd fat 4.5 g, Cho lesterol 700 1l 5olilum 3960 mg. Tow ca rboh)'d ratcs 6 g. Protein 1Z5 g, Vitamin C 25%, Iron 130%
=========== ~ ============
RECIPE 17.22
D UCK CONFIT R OUEn IN B RICK D OUGH TIlE RITZ CARI:rQN, O n~AGO, Il Executive Cbe/George Bumbans
Method: Deep-frying
Yidd: 4' Servings
Shah, minced Duck fat IAlck confu meat, shredded
'IrboIe buner Heavy whipping cream PolaIO puree Chives, chopped Brick dough (available from speciality purveyors) or wonton wrappers Egg, reJten Oil for frying
1/2 c. I Thsp. I c. 2 Thsp. 2 Thsp. 1/ 4 c. I Thsp.
120ml 15 ml 250 ml 30m] 30m] 60ml 15 ml
4 sheets
4 sheets
I
I
1 qt.
lit
L [n 3 large skillet, saute the shallots in the duck fat over medium heat. Add the shredded duck meat. l ~Ii.'( the whole bUller, cream and potato puree. Add this mixture to the duck meat. Heat thoroughly then remo\'e from the heat and add the ch.ires. J henly divide the duck mixture 00\0 4 sheels of brick dough or woman ~Tdppers .
4. Brush the edges of Ihe dough with the beaten egg. Roll the filled dough
into a very light cigar shape. Turn the edges in SO that the duck is compk1el~' sealed inside the dough. S Deep-fry the rolls until they are g9lden brown and crisp. Slice {he rolls in half on the bias and serve hot. Appoxuttl1e v;tlues per roll, Calo rlcs 130. To ta l fal 13 g, Satll rated fat 7 g, Ch oleste rol 80 mg . ..... ~ mg. Total carbo h)'dratl';!!l I g, Protein 2 g, Vltaml.,. A 1;%
423
424 '"""
CIIAPlFlIIl
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 17.23
D UCK Ii L'ORANGE Chef LeIa"d Arklnso1l,
WASlIMTOS, DC
Yield: 4 Servings
Method: RoaSIing
Duckling, 5-6 lb. (2 .2-2.8 kg) Salt and pepper
I IT
I IT
Duck or chicken stock
Boz. Ilbsp. Ilbsp.
250 ml 15 ml 15 ml JO Oll
Sugar Champagne vinegar
Brandy
2lbsp. 12 oz.
Orange juice lemon juice
Whole butter Oranges, peeled and sectioned Orange zest, julienne
350 m]
from 1 lemon
from 1 lemon
IIsp.
5ml
4 41bsp.
60 m]
4
I . Prick the duck with a fork and season well with salt and pepper.
2. Roast the duck al 400°F (200°C) fo r 15 minutes. Reduce the heat 10 3m
(I80°C) and cook until done, approximately 45-60 minutes. RemOl"e ~ duck from the roasting pan and hold in a warm place.
3. Degrease the roasting pan. Place the pan on the stove 4.
5. 6.
7. S.
lOp and degWr with the stock. Melt the sugar and \'inegar together in a saucepan and lightly cararrm the mixture. Remove the ca ramelized sugar from the stove top :md lldd the brandy. Add the stock, pan drippings and juices to the pan of sugar and redtn until the sauce is slightly thickened, approximately 10 minutes. Montt iii beurre. Strain and degrease the sauce. Blanch the orange zest in boiling water. Place the duck on a warm serving planer. Arrange the orange seam around it. Sprinkle the zest over the duck. Pour the sauce over thr dtd and serve additional sauce on the side.
Approximate v:llues per 28-0~. (S4O-g) serving: Calories 1810, Total f:lt 147 g. ~tur.ued r. 'i4 ~ Choiestcrol 47S mg, SOdium 1050 rug, Total c;arOOh )'dntes 30 g. ProIdn 91 g. \'iwninA UJ!. llo !amm C 190%, Iron SCM
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 17.24
ROAST GOOSE WITH CABBAGE AND APPLES Yield: 8 6-oz. (l SO-g) Servings Goose, approx. 12 lb. (6 kg) Salt and pepper Caraway seeds Onion, large dice Carrot, large dice Celery, large dice Green cabrge, shredded
Method: R~ I
I
IT Ilbsp. 6 oz. 3 oz.
IT 15 Illl
IBOg
3 oz.
90g 90g
lib.
450 g
POULTRY ~
lib.
!'ruto, large dice Tan apple, cored and diced ."""Ie cider
1.4 kg 450 g
l ib. I qt.
I It
t Remove the giblets from the goose; remove the fat from its cavity. Rinse the goose and pat dry. Sprinkle its interior and exterior with salt, pepper and caraway seeds. Tmss the goose and place breast side up on a rack in 2 roasting pan. 1 Roast in a 425°F (220°C) oven for 30 minutes. prick the skin all over with afork to release fat. 1 Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F 080°C) and cominue roasting for lnother 45 minutes. Baste the bird occasionally with the fa! accumulating in the pan. i Meanwhile, combine the vegetables and apples, and season with sail and pepper. S After roasting for a total of 1 1/4 hours, remove the goose from the pan and drain olT all but 3 tablespoons (45 milliliters) of fat. Place the vegetable mixture in the roasting pan and toss to coat with the fat. , Plact the goose on top of the vegetable mi.xture and pour the apple cider O'' er all. Return to the oven and continue roasting until done, approximately I 1/2 hours. t Remove the bird from the roasting pan and allow it to rest for 20-30 minutes before carving. Serve with the cooked vegetable and apple mixture.
. ..
nlues per 5efVing: Calories 1230, Tout fal 62 So Salur:lIe
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 17.25
SQUAB SAUD WITH MELON Chef Ode/le Fada
of the fonner REX IL RISfORANTE, Los A.~GF,lF.S, CA rtdd: 6 Servings Squab Salt and pepper E.tlr.! virgin olive oil Dry black currants Tahilian squash, thin slices Mache lettuce, small bunches
Method: Sauteing
3
J
IT
IT
as needed 2 1bsp.
as needed 30ml
18
18
6
6
L Bone the squab breasts and remove the thighs and legs. Season with salt and pepper and sallte the breasts and thighs in olive oil until done, approximately 10-15 minutes. l. Pbee the currants in a bowl and cover with hot water. S. Cook the squash slices in boiling water for 40 seconds. Clit the slices in h:df and arrange them on each of 6 plates as fans opening toward the pbte's border. Conti/wed
425
• 426 r0.. CHAPTER 17 4. On the other side of each plate, arrange some mache lenuce; season wlb salt and pepper. 5. Slice {he breasLS; arrdnge the mea! with the legs on the squash. Keep ttr plates in a warm place. 6. Drain the currants and saute in 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) of olive ci. Sprinkle the currants around the plates and serve. Approximate values per serving: Calories 23Q, Toul fal 10 g. Saluraled fat 25 g, Cholestcrol SS. Sodium 460 mg. Total <:arbohydrales 3 g, Protein 31 g, Vitamin A 20%, Vitamin C 3O'lIo
======= ,~ ====== RECIPE 17.26
SPICED OSTRICH TENDERLOIN Yield: 2 Servings
Melhod: Broiling
Cumin seeds Fennel seeds Black peppercorns White peppercorns Garlic cloves, minced Ostrich tenderloin, 4 oz. (120 g) each
1 Thsp. 1 Tbsp.
Olive oil
2 tsp. 2 2 1 Thsp.
15 ml 15 ml 10 ml lOml 2 2 15 m!
Sail
IT
IT
2 tsp.
1. Grind the cumin, fennel and peppercorns together in a spice grinder. Cat bine the ground spices with the garlic.
2. Brush the tenderloin with the olive oi!, coat with the spice mixture and soson lightly with salt. 3. Cook the ostrich under a broiler to the desired degree of doneness. 4. Remove from the broiler and slice into thin pieces for service. Approximate values per 4-oz. (i 2(l-g) 5e.vins: Calories 169, ToW fat 5 g, Saruratoo fat 1 g, Cbab terol 91 mg, Sodium 106 mg. Total carbohydrates 5 g, Protein 27 g, Iron 46%
====== ,~ ====== RECIPE 17.27
TURKEY SCALLOPINE WITH CAPERS AND LEAtON Yield: 4 Servings Turkey breast, Cllt into 1/8-in. (3-mm) scallopines, 3 oz. (90 g) each Salt and white pepper Flour Clarified butter Dry white wine Fresh lemon juice Capers
Method: Sauteing
8
8
IT
IT
as needed 2 oz.
2 oz.
as needed 60 ml 120 Ill! 60 ml
31bsp.
45 ml
4 oz.
1. Gently pound each ntrkey slice with a meat mallet. Season wilh salt at.t pepper and dredge in flour. 2. Sauve the Turkey in the clarified butler until golden brown. Remove mI hold in a warm place.
POUL17iY ""',
Deglaze the pan with the wine, then add the lemon juice and capers. Rerum me turkey 10 Ihe pan to coat with the sauce and rehea!. i ~...e 2 slices wilh a portion of the sauce . •-aIoes per &oz. (l80-g) serving: Calories 390. Tow fat 13 g. Saturaled fal 8 g. COO13 g. Protein ;6 g. Vitamin A I<M
-..ot llKl mg. Sodium 910 mg. ToW carboh)·dnues
====== .~ ======= RECIPE 17.28
SAurEED CHICKEN LIVERS l\lethod: Sauteing
\kld: 4 4-oz. (120-g) Appetizer Servings Chicken livers, trimmed Sail and pepper
I lb.
4;0 g
TI
TI
as needed as needed I oz. 30 ml 6Q ml 2 Thsp. 4 oz. 120 ml 6Qml 2 Thsp. 4 4 as needed for garnish
F10ue \egelable oil ShaIlOlS, minced Raspberry vinegar Raspberry jam French bread croulOns \f11rrcress
L Rinse me livers and pal dry. Season with salt and pepper and dredge in
Booe.
3-4 minutes. Remove the livers from the pan and hold in a warm place. J [Sing the fat remaining in the pan, saule the shallots until tender. Deglaze ",ith the vinegar. t Add the jam. Simmer until thickened. Return the livers 10 the pan and toss to COOt with the sauce. 1 Serve on warm plates with French bread croutons; garnish with watercress.
1 Salll~ the livers in the oil until just barely pink, approximately
. ..
\jIpImIIn3te \':lIllI'S per 4-oz. (1 20-8) serving: Calories 330. Total fat 14 g, Samrated fat 3 g. ChoIMtroI 71; mg, Sodium 660 mg. Total carbohydrates 22 g. Protein 30 g, Vitamin A 560%,
====== ~ ============ RECI PE 17.29
SWrEED FOIE GRAS ON WILD MUSHROOM DUXELLES Willi TOASTED BRIOaIE Chef lelalld AtkillSOIl,
l'~~>;GTO.~
DC
rltld: 4 Ser.'ings
Fresh foie gras, A grade 'f"dd mushrooms \halloo, chopped Garlic, chopped i'hole butter Tomato paste Brandy
1 lb.
lib. 2 Thsp. 1 tsp. I Thsp. I tsp. Ilbsp.
4;0 g 4;0 g 30 ml 5 ml 15 ml 5 ml 15 ml Continued
427
428 '""" CIIAP1EII J7 Fresh thyme Salt and pepper Madeira Sauce (Recipe 10.12) Brioche (Recipe 31 .18)
I tsp.
5 ml
IT
IT
Soz. S slices
250 ml 8 slices
1. Allow the foie gras to come to near room temperature. With a sharp kr*.
2. 3. 4.
5. 6: 7. 8.
scrape the thin membrane from the outside of the li\'er. Gently pull dr pieces apart. Gently pull out any visible veins. Slice the lh'er on a ~ bias into slices approximately I inch (2.5 centimeters) thick. Cover anddJI until service. To make the duxelles, clean and chop the wild mushrooms. Saute the shallots and garlic in the butter. Add the mushrooms and cook until they first release their moislUre an:! then begin to dry, approximately 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and brandy and cook until dry, stirring often. Add the thyme and adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper. Remove tht duxelles from the heat. Quickly saute the foie gras in a hot dry pan until it is browned on !xC sides but still bright pink in the middle, approximately 2 minutes. Portion the duxelles onto four warm serving plates. Ladle the ~ladeil Sauce around the duxelles. Blot the foie gras on a dry towel and 3IT3!f it over the top of Ihe duxelles. Serve wilh toasted brioche and fresh tbyur garnish.
Approximate \';llues per serving: Calories 1160. To tal. fat 7S g. Saturated fat 23 g, Cholc:slcrot.1t mg, Sodium t4 )O mg. Total carbohydrates 92 g, Protein 30 g, Vitamin A 1 ~ Iron (iOIo,
====== ~' ====== RECIPE 17.30
JERK FOIE GRAS WITH GREEN lENTILS IN BALSMtlC VINEGAR From AIle" Susser's New World Cuisille (Ilia Cookery,
by AIl.EN SUSSER, NORTIl MlA.\u BEACH, FL Yield: S Servings Allspice, ground Cinnamon, ground Nutmeg, grated Fresh cilantro, minced Whole scallions, chopped Garlic, chopped Tamarind pulp Dry red wine Olive oil Kosher salt Scotch bonnet chile, minced Fresh foie gras Green Lentils in Balsamic Vinegar (recipe follows)
I
Method: Grilling 1/4 c. IISp. 1/2 tSp. I Thsp. 4 2 Thsp. I tsp. I c.
21bsp. 1 tsp. IISp. lib.
S servings
60 nu 5ml 3ml 15 ml 4 30ml 5ml 250 ml 30 ml 5 ml 5ml
500g 8 servings
1. Combine the spices, cilantro, scallions, garliC, tamarind, red wine, olil'eci,
salt and Scotch bonnet chile.
POUL71iY '"""
Separate the 2 lobes of the liver. Clean them and remove the veins. Cut each lobe into 1 lIZ-inch (4-centimeter) thick medallions. Marinate with the
jerk seasonings in a ceramic bowl for 2 hours. Preheat the grill, then grill each piece of foie gTaS for only 30 seconds on each Side, charring the outside yet leaving the inside medium rare. Mound the Green Lentils on a bright ceramic plate and place the medalm of foie gras on lOp. vaJues per}<Jz. (101-g) SCTVing' Calories 160, Total (at 9 g, Saruraled fal 2 g, Choles-
. . ., "•. '"''',m ''' mg, Total carbohydrates 8 g. Prolein 10 g, Viwnin A 530!6, lro n 100'!6
GREEN LENTILS IN BALSAMIC VINEGAR \itld: 8 Servings Green lentils
2 1/2 c.
1560 ml
Olive oil
1/4 c. 1/2 c. 2 tsp. 1/2 c.
60ml 120 ml
Onion, small dice
Garlic, small dice Carrol, small dice Celery, small dice 1'ater
Bay leaves lime zest BJlsamic vinegar
1I2c. 1 1/2 pI.
10 ml 120 ml 120 ml
nOm!
2
2
21bsp. 1/4 c.
30m! 60ml
J. \rash the lentils thoroughly. 1 Heal the oil in a saute pan; add the onion and cook until it is translucent. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Add the caJT(){ and celery. Continue cooking for 2 more minutes. J, Add the lentils, water and bay leaves. Simmer for 20 minutes, or until the lentils are only slightly firm. Remove the bay leaves. 4. Stir the lime zest and balsamic vinegar into the lentils and serve hot. ~Ie I'alues per }oz. (96-g) serving: Calories 290, Total fat 7 g, Saturated fat I g, Cbole!lin! 0 mg. SodluDi 15 g, Total carbohydrales 38 g, Protein 17 g, Vitamin A 20%, Iron 15%, I*t-low slllmmed f~l~ no choleslerol: very low sodium; high fiber
429
, .,
" ...... . ,." .--
-'>-
.... "",
..
HAPTER
18
Tbe Boulder's NeSfJrl, Carefree AZ
Corporate &"epd/l,'e Cbef Charles Wiley
=== ~ ===
After studying this chapter, you will be able to: ("\!\..
("\!\..
("\!\..
("\!\..
t"'2\.
~
identify a variety of game understand game inspection practices purchase game appropriate for your needs store game properly prepare game for cooking apply various cooking methods to game
ame (Fr. gibier) are animals hU1lfed for Spol1 orJood. Tmditional/y, game supplies depended UpOll tbe seasol1 and the hlll1ll!fl success. But game's increasing popularity in food selvice OJ>era1ilJlS has led to farm-raising techniques. As a result, pheasant, quail, dM. rabbit and other animals, although still considered game, are fU.'I farm- or rmlcb-raised and commercially available throughout til
year. The life of game creatures is reflected in their flesh 's appearalla. aroma, flavor and texture. Generally, game flesh has a dark cth and a strong but not unpleasant aroma. It has a robustjIavor, lessJl than other meats or poultry and is more compact, becoming quit tough in older animals. Selecting the best cooking methods for game depel1ds all the Illimal's age and the particular cut of jIesh. Younger animals u'i~ rf course, be more tender than older ones. Flesh from the loin or lessused muscles will also be tender 0I1d therefore can be preparPJ with d,y-heat cooking methods. Flesh from milch-used muse/es, sud as the leg and shoulder, will be tougher and should be preparPJ with combination cooking me/bods. Less-tender cuts call also Ir lIsed in sausages, pates OIld forcemeats, as disiussed in Chapter r Charculerie.
IDEMlFYING GAME
.jg'-,
Furred or Ground Game Furred game includes large animals such as deer, moose, bear, wild boar a elk as well as smaller animals such as rabbit, squirrel, raccoon and oJXlSSl& Although each of these animals (and many others) is hunted for spon and fad. only antelope, deer and rabbit are widely available to food sel'\~ce armtions. Large game animals are rarely sold whole or in primal ponions. Instead til: meat is available precut into subprimals or ponions. So, except for thosedll are used for rabbits, this chapler does nO{ provide butchering techniques.
Antelope The black buck antelope, about half the size of a large deer, is ranch-raised ill this country. Although it has almost no body fat, the meat retains a bf amount of moisture. The meat is fine-grained, with a flavor thai is only sli~ stronger than deer meat (venison). It should be butchered and cooked irli manner similar to venison.
Bison (American Buffalo) Once found in huge herds roaming the plains states, bison or buffalo 1,tt hunted into near extinction during the 19th century. Buffalo now live on reset
GAllE
======
===== ~
AfEA1' Of THE FuroRE: B WitLO
BMaJo is prcxluced by cl'O$-breeding a
'im a dollleslic beef [UlimaL To be a
!'ull-blooded beefalo, the animal has It Ii'lrtHighths bison and Ihe-eighths do~ 1m. The five-eighths dome;tic beef ptm is 001 restricted to any breed; it is often _n1!ion of two or more breeds such :1$ Wrd. Angus or Charolais. In 1985, the .~'l'd a special label for beefalo; it is twrdeither "Beef from Beefalo" or "Beefalo
Beefalo is lower in cholesterol than beef, fish cr chicken and ](}\\''er in calories and fat than beef. It offers a great alternative to beef fOT the diet- and health-conscious guest. The per-pound cost of beefalo may be slightly higher than beef culs, but its low rullQunl of intpri1r :l.11d exterior fat gires it a higher yield 'Nith a prire per usable pound comparable to bo!.
Because ol beefalo's finer fiber and low-fat
111-
conten~
Walo looks and tastes much like modem W nr animal i~lf is hard 10 distinguish alllJ 00Jer bed" animal. Beefalo meat is • bec:tllSe the animals gain weight faster market at younger ages. The meal is 'PlY 5'It1.'eIer in taste than beef.
time of beef and should be cooked to either rare or medillm rare.
."to
¥ll<JlS
it cooks in one third 10 one half the
jAI!E:'i
J MtmI, AI&!, CFBE Chef Ills/ructor,
GRAND RAnDS Call.lfUNm' COU£GE
or mnehes, where they are raised like beef amle. Their meat is juicy,
In'IXful and may be prepared in the same manner as lean beef.
ltrdeer family includes elk, moose, reindeer, red-tailed deer, whiter*d deer (Fr. cbevrelli/) and mule deer. Meat from any of these .-ws b known as venison (Fr. vellaisall). Faml-raised I'enison, pltb:Ubrl)' from the Scottish red deer bred in New Zealand nl the United States, is commercially available all year. \fnison is Iypically dark red with a mild aroma. It is leaner iwl other melts, having almost no intramuscular fat or lINing The most popular commercial venison cutS are the hl,leg Jnd rack. TIle loin is tender enough to roast, saute crgrill 10 medium rare. It can be left at1:lChed along the backbone to form ,(\I( known as the saddle. The leg is often marinated in red wine and prepm! with combination cooking methlXls. Other cuts can also be stewed or lr.!!\\.-d or used in s.1usages and pates. Butchering procedures tor venison are ar to those for lamb discussed in Chapter 15.
llibil bthb (Fr. lapill) are small burrowing animals that have long been raised for rl Rabhit has mild, lean and relatively tender flesh. Its flavor and texture R 'imibr to chicken. Ranch-raised rabbit is available all year, either whole or fri.~h
or frozen. The average weight of a whole dressed rabbit is 2 pounds 81lJllCeS to 3 JX>unds (1.2-1.4 kilograms). Young rabbit can be roasted, panlMI. stewed or braised and is popular in rustic "country-style dishes, especui) l'J!iSCroles and p~tcs . (If
l'elliSQII Saddle
"'"
433
434 ....... CHAPTER 18 PROCEDURE FOR BUTCHERING A RABBIT
3. Cut through the breast bone and spread open the rib cage. Using a boning knife, separate the flesh from the rib bones and remove the bones.
1. place the rabbit on its back. Remove the hind legs by cutting close to the backbone and through the joint on each side. Each thigh and leg can be separated by cutting through the joint.
2. Remove the forelegs by cutting beneath the shoulder blades.
4. Cut through the backbone to divide the loin into the desired number of pieces.
5. The cut-up rabbil: hind legs. thighs, loin in three pieces, forelegs.
IViid Boar Boor Stlddle
A close relative of the domesticated hog, wild boauc,;(~FC:~.~a;;~~~~· leaner, with a stronger flavor. Though plentiful in E of America , wild boar is available only during autumn. A supply of farm- or ranch-raised boar is available all year, howel"tt Baby boar (under six months old) is considered a delicacy.lxI mature animals (one to two years old) have the besl l1al'or. meal is most often roasted, and m:ly be used in S
Feathered or Winged Game Feathered game includes upland birds such as wild turdk;:e;.ys~·;.f~::~a'::~I~"a~:"! doves and woodcocks; songbirds such as larks; and ~ I such geese and ducks. Wild birds cannOI be sold in the United States. An
GAME " ' "
18. 1 """' USING FURRED
GAME
Commonly Purchased Cuts Purchased and prepared
435
Cooking Methods
Suggested
U~
in the same manner as deer
Purchased and prepared in the same manner as lean beef loin
01)' heat (roaS!: saule; grill)
Combination (braise; stew)
Sauteed medallions; whole roost loin; grilled steaks Marinate and braise; pot rooSt with
cranberries; chili: sausage; forcemeat
Loin Chops
Dry heat (roast; grill)
Grilled chops
Dry he-oil (saute; pan-fry; roast; grill)
Pan-fried rabbit with cream gravy
Combination (braise; stew) Dry heat (roast) Combination (braise)
Braised rabbit with mushrooms Roast loin with mustard crust Marinate and braise; stew with red wine and sour cream; sausage; forcemeat
attaSing number of these birds are being famHaised to meet increased conamer demand, however. Glme birds are available whole or precut into pieces, fresh or frozen . btering techniques will not be~wn in this chapter as they are the same DtOOie for domesticated poultry discussed in Chapter 17. Because game birds tend to have less fat than other poultry, they are often IIrded with fat and cooked to medium rare. If cooked well done, they be-
a:me dry and stringy.
Partridge The Hungarian and chukar partridges (Fr. perdrix) of Europe were introduced into the United States and Canada during the 19th century. Now found principally in the prairie and western mountain states, PMtridges are widely raised on game presetves and farms , producing a good commercial supply. Their flavor is less delicate than that of pheasant, and the meat tends to be tougher. Panridge may be roasted or cut into pieces and sauteed or braised. Each bird weighs about 1 pound (450 grams) d ressed .
....nt
h II10SI popular of game birds, the pheasant (Fr. jtlistm) was introduced into fwupt: from A~ia UUI ing the J\Iiddle Ages. Its mild flavor is excellent for roastmg. Slewing or braiSing. The hen is smaller and more tender than the cock. Slxk made from Ihe carcass is often used for consomme or sauce. Farm-raised birds are avail'lble fresh or frozen. A dressed bird weighs aboUi 1 pound 8 ounces to 2 pounds 4 ounces (680 grams to 1 kilogrJ.m) and serves twO people.
Quail The quail (Fr. caille) is a migratory game bird re lated to the pheasant. The more popular European and Californian species are farm -raised and available all year.
= = ,...,.""., = = THE DARlNfl DINER
Although ~nison, boar and pheasant may seem unusual to many Americans, f!\l!n rarer meats are available to the daring diner. Zebra, bear, wildebeest and other "big game" animals are sometimes available through exotic game purveyors based in major metropolitan areas. Most often the meat is grilled, roasted or SIN'ed. Reptiles, particularly raulesnake, cr0codile and alligator, are now also being raised on farms to meet increased demand. Reptiles may be braised, or sliced and deep-fried. They hare a mild flavor with a texture similar to lobster.
436 '""'"
CIWl'FJ! /8
Any dish prepared a Itl Stlillle-alli(mce eo.okes the festivities surrounding the 1815 signing of the Treary of Paris, which ended the reign of Napoleon Bonapane, forcing him into exile on Elba. Faison a/(l $(linlN/IlMmel is a roast pheasant stuffed with wooocock and se"u1 on toast Iq)ped with ....uodcock puree. The reno\\-l1oo gastronome Brillat-Savann gires the following recipe in his Pb)'sW/ogie du Goul, published in 1825:
W1;e1l the plJellSlml bas reached {its peak oj npeness/, it is plllcker!, and 1101 before, alld il is larded ell/iflilly, /IIilh the fresbesl and firmest of mil/erial. lime /xIS come 10 sluff iI, (/lid i1llbefolwu11lg I1Immer: Bone alld drolll (/ brace of
.mbe
WOQdcock, ill such a U'fl)' thaI you ha/Ji'
one supply of lbe j1esb, alltl anO/her of lbe entrails. TaRe lhe flesh and moke a forreme(/I ofillJy chopping it u';lb SQme sleamed beefmarrot/!, alihle scraped baCOl/, fJCIlPCr, satl,jra0 herbs, and enough
= = -FROCS = = Fro&5 are amphibians that can be prepared like poultry or fish. Their texture and flavor are similar to ~lose of chicken. Most of the fro~ used In food seJ'\~ce operations are famHaised, so their me:1I is quite tender. Typically, only the legs are eaten. They are sold frozen. in pairs, attached by a small portion of backbone.
fine truffles 10 make jusltbeamounlt/ sluffing needed 10 fillibe pbeastmt. Prepare a slice ojbremllbarll'illbt aboullu'O incbes bigger 011 e!'t'rysW than the bird klkllenglbuw. 111m Ia#I the u'()()(/cocJt litom alld etllrails. and grilld them in a morlar u'ilb IufJ/ar# truffles, till allciJolJ)', alilfle flllely millced /)(I(xm, tlnti (l sjzeablelllmprf tbe best fresh buller. Sprr.v/(Ilhis pasle et.'(mly olllbebnW slice, tllld plllce ilulIder lhepbeasanl. tllready sluffed. so lball/will cakI every drop ofjuice whicb 11111 aa>ear Il'bile lhe bird is roasJillg. If1JeIllbe bird is dolle, serl'eiJ lying gracefully upollihis crisp lillie mud!; surround il witb bitter oranges, al/dilt assured ofthe10I'1u1/(lle ou/aJme.
"'"'.....
'THe Pm:»1XlJ'rI r. translated and amIO/ated~' M. FI. FE (Norlh Poinl Pm.t J
PI'- F'-f;
Quail are rather small, with only abollt 1-2 ounces (3()....Q() grams) of I:mi meat each. Quail may be grilled (especially on skewers), roasted, broikd« sauteed and are often boned and selVed whole with a stuffing of forcl?1t't'.t(l rice. Because they are so lean, rOaSted quail benefit from barding.
NUTRfflON .n., Even ranch-raised game animals live in the wild and are generally more W! and less. well fed than domesticated animals. TIlis lifestyle produces anim» whose meat has less fat than that of domesticated animals. Most game is lower in cholesterol and has approximately one-third fewer calories than ~ Game is also generally high in protein and minerals. Compare Table 182" Tables 12.1 (Meats) and 17.7 (Poultry).
437
GAME ""'"
IlII£ 18.2 n-.
NlITRlTIONAl VALUES OF GAME
frr I oz. (28 g) brooked Lean Mel!
Real
~.
41 31 J4 39 35 51
I:~ (.",*,rican buffalo) 111M (Il'ni.<;on)
""
I ,ft( boo, I .lI=ru ~
54
Protein (g)
TOial Fat (g)
SatuiJled Fat
Cholesterol
(S)
(mg)
6.6 6.1 6.5 5.7 6.1 6.4 5.6
1.4
0.6
22
0.5
0.2
13 18
0.7 1.6 1.0
0.3 0.5 0.3 0.8 1.0
24
J;
2.6 34
Sodium (mg)
IS
16
12
mq mq mq
mq II
IS
DtCorilllli' T. NNzer EI/cyclopedia of Food Values 1992 ~ =rtk'a5Ur.lble
qUJnti!y but data
L~
unal'ailable
- -
I!
-
~
WIWGAME-
==========
DWClOUS, NlffRJTIOUS AND AWlABLB
I'
I j 11k! game is now widely available for use i
public must be from "an appJ'O\'ed source"
~~1S and at horne. The best of wild v.ilich is interpreted as "inspected." Therefore, , . ~ a safe, delicious and
; :ao<_.
nutr1t1~
: i. In ~ all Slates, our nath'e game ani-
.. are prorected from han'E:Sting for com_ purposes. It is a violation of state _1:1'10510 kHl and sell the meat from nale ~ such as the whitetail deer, mule
.prooghom antelope, etc. TIlese laws I'.'ere 1IDn when onl)' natire game was present in
.IIIrica Since then, a growing number of -.m1l1'e species
of deer and antelope ha\'e
eUlIloouced to ranches in America and this lIw it pa;sible to harvest deer :Uld ante.1rgaI1), for meat production. 0tiIy eoough, h(1.\'e\'eT. mealS such as :I1l. . Imison, rabbit, and most other game ' - are 001 subject to inspection under fed-
iG nlllOSl Slate meat inspection regula... This is 001 because the authorities do I belle\-e the meat should be inspected. • the meat inspection 1av.'S \\~re written, . . mJS were not legally available and .twre ~ not included in the Federal Is N.t Counl)' and city health axles. hO\\'~ 00 require that [Uly meat 5er.'OO \0 the
!!"
,
any game meal ser.ID in a restaurant shoultl be certified as inspected by either Slate or fed· eral meat inspection authorities. Game meal is available from fanned (d0mesticated) deer and from free-ranging (ranched) deer and antelope. Most fanned deer are taken to a fixed conventional slaughterhouse where they are slaughtered and processed in the same way as caltle, sheep, and goats. Ranched deer can be properly har.'eSted only by an elabor-J\e procedure which involves laking a mobile slaughter facility and meat inspector 10 the field where the animals are killed by shooting them \\ith a high (lO\'~red rifle under ~le supervision of the meat inspector. The carcass is then processed inside the mobile facility to a~'Qid any contamination of the meal This field han'CSting eliminates any stress which might occur in transport of fanned deer 10 the slaughterhouse, Fanned deer tend 10 be relalh-ely more unifonn in size and flal'Or. Free-ranging deer and antelope produce meat of more complex flal'Qf due to the variety of their diel. The difference is somewhat like the difference in cultivated
mushrooms and wild mushrooms, or penraised chickens compared \lith free-range chickens. Me-.it frum fn!e-range animals Is more expensive due 10 higher labor and inspection costs. Meat from both deer and antelope can be legally labeled "venison," All venison is relalively lean when compared with OOnl-entional red mealS and requires special attention when cooking to al'oid drying oul the meat and toughening H. Tender culS should be cooked as little as possible (rare to medium rare) to retain the maximum amount of moisture. QUick sauu!ing, grilling or roasting to retain a medium rare center is most satisfactory for ten· der culS such as the loin, tenderlOin, and leg. Braising is the most elTectil'e methOO for cooking the less tender cuts such as the shoulder, ribs and shanks. Bed broth or red wine are good liquids for braising. The toughest cui of meat will be wry satisfactorily tenderized if braised for a sufficient period of time (which may be as long as tI\'O or three hours), When properly cooked, these cuts can surpass the more tender cuts in flal'Qr. MIll HUGIlES,
BROKEN ARROW /W.OI, Ingram, 7exas
438 '""" CHAPl1iR /8
INSPECTION OF GAME .n-, The USDA and most states restrict the sale of wild game. Truly wild gatneQII be served only by those who hunt and share their kill.
Domestic Game Farm- or ranch-raised game is only subject (0 voluntary inspections for ,,1Q:. someness. Generally, however, game is processed under the same federal. spection requirements as domesticated meats and poultry. State regubtXo vary and are constantly being expanded and improved in response !O ~ sumer demands. Also, unlike meat and poultry from domesticated a_ game is not graded for quality.
Imported Game Only USDA-approved countries are permitted to export game to the CniIN States. Upon arrival in this country, game shipmentS are subject to USDAsp:1 inspections.
PURCHASING AND STORING GAME .n...
Purchasing Game
~ ==
lIow TO lIAA'c GAME The following infonnation may be useful if you find yourself with a need 10 hangfresh!y killed game. Most game should be eviscerated (drawn or gutted) as soon as possible, then suspended by either the hind lep or the head in adry, ,,,,ell-\enIUated place. Because the fur or feathers help prevent bacterial contamination, they should be lefl intact during hanging; game should be skinned or plucked Just before bUlchering. The lenglh of time necessary for hanging depends on the species and age of the animal. 1Wo days may be sufficient for a rabbit, v.'hile up \0 three ....t'eks may be necessary for adeer or boar. Hanging is geoerally compiele when the first vmlff of odor is detected (although traditionalists prefer pheasant to be hung until extremely ripe).
Furred game mealS are available fresh or frozen. Game birds are a\'aiblt cleaned and boned, fresh or frozen. Use the same criteria to determine ar freshness of game as you would any other meat or poultry; The flesh be firm, without slime or an off-odor. Fresh game is sometimes hung before cooking to allow the meat to maltIt or age. During hanging, carbohydrates (glycogen) stored in muscle tissuesar convened 10 lactic acid. This process tenderizes the flesh and strengthens I flavor. But hanging is nOl necessary, especially if you object !O "gamy' naHn Commercially sold game is generally fully aged and ready 10 use when delif. ered. It does nOl need, nor will it benefit from , hanging.
Storing Game As with any fresh or frozen meat, game should be well wrapped and SIMI!
under refrigeration at temperatures below 40c F (4 C C). Because the flesh isp erally dry and lean, frozen game shou ld be used within four months. Thzr frozen game slowly under refrigeration to prevent moisture loss.
MARlNIff'fNG FURRED GAME .n-, Tradition calls for marinating game, panicularly furred game, in strong IiIl' tures of red wine, herbs and spices. Commercially raised game does na Ill: essarily have to be marinated. Modern animal husbandry techniques ll'(da game ranches assure the chef of receiving meat from young, tender aniIIZ Fann-raised game animals also have a naturally milder flavor than their lf1i wild cousins. For those preferring the flavors impaned by traditional marinades, the ij. lowing red wine marinade is included. After the meat is removed, the m» nade may be added to the cooking liquid or reduced and used in a sauce. I» not serve uncooked marinade.
GA/off.'
RECIPE 18. 1
RED- WIM! GMIE MARINADE Yield: 1 112 'It. (1.; It)
Carrol. chopped fine Onion. chopped fine Glrlic, minced Dried thyme lb.y!e:\\"CS ).miper berries. whole Peppercorns, whole Sage, ground Red wine Red wine vinegar
2 oz. 2 oz. Ilbsp.
60g 60g
ltsp.
5 mJ
2 2 tsp.
2 IO ml 15 ml 2 ml
1 Thsp.
1/2 ISp.
15 ml
1 qt.
1]<
4 oz.
120
m]
Combine all ingredients. Place the me:lt in the marinade and marinate for Ihe desired lime. Tender, farm·raised game may need only 30 minutes; older, wild animals may need 1-2 days. \';I1ues pt,. i -OZ. (3O.g) seTVing: Calorie$ 5. Total rat 0 g. Sarunuoo fat (I g, Cholestero l ... _ , . 0 mg,. ToUi carboh ydrates I g, Protein (I g. Vllamm A 6%, Clalms-fat r~; no saliiI; 110 chok.'$Icroi: no sodium; lQw alorie
{ioNCLUSION .n-, Game
is becoming increasingly popular because of consumer desires for
Iemer, healthier meats.
Only farm-raised game can be used in food service OJ>'
aims. Luckily, many popular game items arc now farm-raised, government-
bpected and readily available. Generally, game nesh has a dark color, a Il008 bul not unpleasant aroma and a robust n:lVOr. You should butcher, prePIt and cook game according to the comparable guidelines for other meats "pooh~',
l Expbin the differences between tfilly wild game :lnd ranch-raised game. t '(hal is hanging? Is it necessary for modem food service operations to hang ~me1
! Which ruts of furred game are best suited to dry-heat cooking methods? 'l'hich are best for combination cooking methods? t Can game birds be purchased whole? How are they fabricated? S. What degrcc of doneness is best suited for game birds? Explain your
answer.
~,
439
440 ...-a. CHAPTER 18
LQ{nDITIONAL GAME RECIPES
..P.r-,
RECIPE 18.2
ACHIOTE-BASTED RACK OF VENISON WITH SAfOKED CORN PUDDING NOTE: 1bis dishnwears ;lIIheClxlpJer~lillgpholograpb.
TIlE BOUlDERS RESORT, CAIu;!ltEE, AZ Carport/Ie fJ':o:eclllive Cbe] ClXlrles Wil/J)'
Method: Grilling
Yield: 4 Servings Venison chops, 6 oz. (I80 g) each Achiote Paste (recipe follows) Kosher salt Pepper Olive oil Shiitake mushroom caps Haricot vert, blanched and shocked Roma tomatoes, quartered Smoked Corn Pudding (recipe follows) Barley Risotto (recipe follows) Venison Red Wine Jus (recipe follows)
4
4
112 c. I tsp.
120 Illl 1T 1T 5 ml
8
8
24 2 2 c. 4 servings 4 oz.
24 2 500 m! 4 servings 120 Illl
1T 1T
1. Prepare a mesquite or gas grill. Brush the chops with AchiOie P3SlC aM
season with salt and pepper. Grill to medium rare, brushing with additi:ri Achiote Paste. Remove the chops from the grill, cover loosely and kcq warm. 2. Heat the oil in a small saute pan and add the mushrooms. Cook for M minUies over medium heat. Add the hariCO! vert and tonlaloes; season ,. sail and pepper. Cook for an additional 2-3 minutes; remove from the Id 3. Spoon 1/2 cup (I20 milliliters) of the Smoked Corn Pudding in the ceIICI of a warm dinner plate. Spoon 1/ 4 of the haricot vert mixture on top«tIr pudding. Cut each chop in lhirds and arrange the pieces around the pJi. ding. Top with barley riSOttO and pour 1 ounce (30 milliliters) of Red £_ Jus around the venison. Serve immediately. Apprw:imale values per serving, CalorlC$ 930, TOial fal 37 g, Saturaled fal 17 g, Chole5ltf'OHt mil, Sodium 1660 mg, TOlal carbohydrau::s 87 g, Prole ln 63 g, Vllamln A 10I:m, Viwnln C Iron 60%
ACHIOTE PASTE Yield: 1/2 c. ( 120 Ill]) Ancho chiles Garlic dove Allspice Cumin seeds, toasted and ground Annato seeds Olive oil White wine vinegar Orange juice Kosher salt
3
3 !
1/4 1/2
! ~p_
! m!
~p_
3 m! 5 ml 5 rul 30 on! 60 ml 3 ml
I tsp. I tsp. 2 fup_ 1/4 c.
1/2
~p_
GAftIE c"'\!t.
1 Toast the ancho chiles in a skillet over medium heat for 2 minutes, or until !hey release some oil and have a toasted aroma. Let cool slightly, then core, seed and tear into strips. Z Place the ancho Strips in a blender with the remaining ingredients and puree umil smooth . •'3!uts per 1.Wz. (52.g) scrving: Calories 2S, Toul fal 1.5 g. Saturated fal 0 g, Cho....,. 0 Eng. SOdium 200 mg. Total carboh)'d rales 3 g. Prolein 0 g
SMOKED CORN PUDDING lidd: 2 c. (;00 ml) Whole buner Milk Yellow cornmeal Kosher salt Pepper Com, lightly smoked, kernels removed Onion, chopped Eggs, separated
3 Thsp. I pt. 1/2 c.
45 ml 500 ml
IT IT
120 ml IT IT
2 ears 3 Thsp.
45 ml
3
3
2 ears
L Coot an 8-inch (20-centimeter) square pan with 1 tablespoon (I5 milliliters) dbuner. Z In a medium saucepan, bring the milk to a ooil. Lower the heat and gradually whisk in the cornmeal. Cook over low heal for 10 minutes, stirring 'AM a wooden spoon. J :\dd the salt, pepper, corn, onions and remaining butter; cook for an additional 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the egg yolks one at a lime, beating well with a wooden spoon after each addition . .. Add a pinch of salt to the egg whiles and beat with a fine whisk until stiff. fold the whipped egg whites into the cornmeal mixture, one half at a time. Pour into the buttered pan and bake al 350Q F (I80 CC) until golden brown, approximately 30 minutes, JpoJrnate \':lilies per 1/2
CWratrot 200 mg, Sodium 200 mg, Total carbo hydr.lles 31 g. Prolein t2 g, Vitam in A
_ IS"
2(1%,
BARLEY RISOTTO Ylrld: 4 servings
I Thsp. 4 1 c. 3 Thsp. 1/ 4 c.
120 ml 500 ml 15 ml 4 250 ml 45 ml 60ml
IT IT
IT IT
Barley
1/2 c.
Water 1'hole butter Garlic do\'es, chopped Olicken slock Green onions or chives, sliced Asiago, graled Kosher salt
I pI.
P<w<'
1 Cook the barley in the water until barely done; suain. 1 Melt the bUller in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, approximately 2 minutes. Add the barley and stir with a wocxlen spoon to coat completely with the butter. COllfilllled
44J
442
C"'ft!\.
ClIAPTER 18
3. Increase the heat and add )/2 cup (125 milliliters) of the chicken stock &r until all the stock is absorbed, then add the remaining stock. Cook until. most all the stock is absorbed and remove from heat. 4. Stir in the green onions and cheese, and season to taste with sah :mi pepper. Approximate \'2ll.1es per serving: Calories 180, Total fat 9 g, Saturated fat 5 g. Cbolc!;teroI ?;" SOdium 280 Illg, Total carbo hydrates 20 g, Protein 5 g, Vitamin A 1(M, CIaiJns.:-M sugtt pi source of fiber
VENISON RED WINE JUS Yield: I pt. 000 ml)
2 Thsp. 2 1/2 c. 2 lSI'.
Bacon, chopped Shallots, chopped Carrots, chopped Garlic, chopped Celery, chopped Onion, chopped Red wine Venison or venison/veal stock
30 ml 2
120 ml 10 ml 1 rib
1 rib 1/2 c. I pt. I qt.
120ml ;00 ml III
1. In a medium saucepan, render the bacon over low heat. Add the shallo:.ti. carrots, garlic, celery and onion; cook until tender. 2. Add the red wine and reduce to a glaze. 3. Add the stock and reduce by two thirds. Pass through a fine strainer am check the consistency. Return to the saucepan and reduce further if J!(. essary. Approxim:l\e values per I<{lI. (j().nu) serving: Calories 30. TOIaI fat I g. Saturated fal 0 So Cb:IIIt terol 1.5 IllS. Sodium 228 mg. Total ca rbohydrates S g. Protein t g. Vitamin A IS%, ~ fat; low cholesterol
============ ~ =========== RECi PE 18.3
MARINATED LOIN OF VENISON
ROASTED wlm MUSTARD FETZER VINEYARDS,
li oplA.~]),
CA
jobll Ash, CIIU1ItIT)' Director
Method: Roasting
Yield: 8 to 106-8 oz. (180-250 g) Scrvings Marinade: Carrots, medium Yellow onion, large Shallots, whole Garlic cloves Olive oil Hearty red wine Red wine vinegar Bay leaves Parsley stalks Juniper berries, whole Sea salt Peppercorns
3
3
I
I
3 3
3 3 30m!
2 Thsp. 40 oz. 4 oz.
4
1200 ml 120 rul 4
6 16
6
2 tsp.
10 ml 12
12
16
""liE "'" ~!u5I3rd
cooting:
3
Garlic do\'cs Green onion, chopped Chardonnay fresh sage Fresh thyme Dijon mustard Qliveoil Sea salt \eruson loin, Sib. (2.2 kg),
2 oz.
3 60g
3 oz.
90mi
I l5p. I (Sp.
5 ml
I c. 2 oz.
250 ml 60ml
I [Sp.
5 Illl
5 ml
well-trimmed
L For the marinade, coarsely chop the vegetables and saute them in the oil unl~ lightly browned. 1.&.dd the wine, vinegar and remaining marinade seasonings and bring to a ooil. 1 Reduce the heat and simmer 10 minutes. Cool before using. t For the mustard coming, place all ingredients in a food processor or blender and quickly process until smooth. The mi.x[ure should be very
thick. Corer and refrigerate. l In a nonreactive pan, pour the cooled marinade over the loin and marimnc, co\'ered, in the rcfriger.lIor for up 10 24 hours. Turn occasionally. , Remove the meal from the marinade, pal dry and quickly sear the meat in 1Il0l saute pan or on the grill. 1 Place me loin in a roasting pan and coat well with the mustard coating. Roast at 4)O°F (230°C) for 5 minutes; then reduce {he heat 10 375°F (I9Q c C) and roaSt for an additional 10-15 minutes, until the meat is medium rare. a Sen'e on warm plates with Creamy Polenta with Wild ;"'Iushrooms (Recipe 23.18).
,'IP-'" l"llues per 8-0~. (ZSoO-g) .'>Crving: calories 340. Total fat
13 g, Saturated fat 3 g, Chomg, SodlullI 460 mg, Total c:arboh)'drate!> " g. Protein 53 g, Iron SO%
====== ,~ ====== RECIPE 18.4
BRAISED ANTELOPE IN SOUR CREAM Method: Braising
Yield: S 6-8 oz. (180-250 g) Servings Sail pork Botlom round of antelope, 4-5 lb. (2-2.5 kg) Onion. small dice Galik cloves, sliced Carrot, sliced Red wine Veal or game stock Bay leaves Fresh rosemary, chopped Fresh Ihyme Juniper berries, cnLshed Tomato pasle
3 oz.
90g I
12 oz. 2 8 oz. 24 oz. 3 pl. 2 1 !Sp. 1/2 !Sp. 10 211)sp.
350 • 2 250 g 700 ml 1.5 II 2 5 ml
2 ml 10 30 ml COlllirllled
443
444 """
CIW'l'ER 18
2 Thsp. 2 Thsp.
Clarified butler
Flour
1 pI. IT
Sour cream Salt and pepper
30 ml 30 ml 500 ml IT
I . Render the salt pork. Brown the meat well in the fat. 2. Add the onions, garlic and calTQ(Sj Saute until the \'cgclables are tender 3. Add the red wine, stock, herbs, juniper berries and tomato paste. Braistl a 325°F 060°C) oven until the meat is tcnder, approximately I I 200. hours.
4. Remove the meat from the P"ln. If necess.1.ry, make a blond raux with Ib:
butter and flour and use it to thicken the sauce, Bring to a simmer, tI:d strain the sauce. 5. Add the sour cream, heat the sauce thoroughly and season to taste l"Ii[h~ and pepper. Approximate val ues per 8-oz. (250-8) serving, Clilo ries m , TObl fat 21 g. Sa turated fat II g. IcsICroJ 320 mg, Sodium 11]0 mg, Total carbohyd l"'.lIe5 24 g, Protein 72 g. Vitamin A 00It
a.
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 18.5
eH/U/-RUBBED VENISON
WIlli CARMIELlZED BERRY SAUCE ]'1I0ENlX BRt.WlNG CO.\1PANY, AnA,1'A, GA Executive Cbe/Kevi" FOllzo
Method: Sauteing
Yield: 4 Servings
Chilli powder Salt
21bsp. lisp.
Pepper
I lSp. I "[bsp.
Olive oil
30 m]
5 m] 5 m] 15 m]
Venison leg, )-OZ,
(ISO-g) portions Mashed potatoes
Caramelized Berry Sauce (recipe follows)
4 as needed 8 oz.
4 as needed 250 ml
I . In a small bowl, combine the chilli powder, salt and pepper. Rub the ItIt ~n with this mixture until well coaled.
2. Heat the olive oil in a medium-sized SallIe pan. Cook the \"enisoo medium rare, making sure \0 brown all sides of the meat. J. Remove the venison from the pan and allow it 10 rcst for 1 minute. ~ slice into medallions,
4. j\'lound the mashed potatoes into the center of each phuc. Arnnge venison in a ran around the potatoes. Ladle on the Caramelized Bent Sauce and garnish as desired. Approximate values per serving: Calories 330, Toul fal n g, Salur::l Ied fal 4 g, Chok:sctrol mg, Sodium 16S4 mg, Toul carboh)'uralcs 10 g, Proleln 43 g, Vila min A 26%, Vitamin C I
Iron 51%
GAME
CARAMELIZED BERRY SAUCE Y~d:
2 qt. (2 It)
.gar
6 oz.
'''r mwberries, sliced
4 oz. I c.
hspberries
1 1/2 pt.
Blackberries
1 pt. 1 c. 1 gal.
180 g 120 ml 250 ml 750 ml 500 ml 250 ml 4 II.
Combine the sugar and water in a large 5aucepot. Bring to a boil and cook tl a rich, golden brown . ..\dd all the berries to the caramelized sugar. Cook for 1 minute. Add the veal stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat 10 a simmer and reduce by half. Strain the sauce through a fine chinoise and keep warm for 1'2Iues per 2-ol. (60-mI) serving: CaIoriI'$ 39. Total f;u 0 g, SalW"alro {al 0 mg, SodIum ;ao mg, Total carbohrdrall'$ 9 g, Prolein ]g, Vitamin C ]3%
g, CIIoI!'$--
. =========== ~ ============ RECIPE 18.6
VENISON MEDALLIONS GRAND VENEUR Yield: 2 Servings \t nison medallions, 3 oz. (90 g) each
Method: Sauteing
4
4 IT
Sah and pepper Carified butter While wine Poil'rade sauce (pg 204) Red currJnt jelly
IT
1 oz. 1 oz. 6 oz. 2 tsp.
109
He:tvy cream
1 oz.
30 Illl
30ml 180 ml 10 ml
I. Season the medallions with salt and pepper, and saute in the clarified but-
ter to the desired donenes.s. Remove and reserve. 1 Degrease the pan and deglaze with the white wine. J, Add the poivrade sauce and bring to a simmer. Stir in the currant jelly, add the cream and adjust the seasonings . • Return the medallions ]0 Ihe sauce 10 reheat. Serve 2 medallions per person with a portion of the $.1UCC. l".ltue:s per &.oz. (J ~g) serving: Caloril'$ 410. Toul fal 2] g, Saturated fal t2 g, Cho]2;0 mg, Tota t carbohydrates ]5 g, Protei n 39 g, Vitamin A IN
....w 1~ mg. Sodium
C""a.
445
446 '"""
CIWl'FJi 18
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 1B.7
VENISON AND BlACK BEAN CHIU Yield: 4 qt. (4 It)
Method: Braising
Venison round, trimmed, medium dice
lib. 2 qt. 3 oz. 31b.
450 g 21t 90 ml 1.3 kg
Garlic doves, minced
6
6
Onion, small dice
I lb. 8 oz. 3 2 oz. loz.
680g 3 60g 30 g
I lSp.
5 ml
3 Thsp. 1 lb. 8 oz. 1 qt.
45 ml 680 8 I It
IT IT
IT IT
Dried black beans Water
Peanut oil
Jalapenos, seeded and chopped fine Masa harina (corn flour) Chilli powder Cayenne pepper Cumin, ground
Peeled tomatoes, canned Veal stock
Salt and pepper
Tabasco sauce
1. Soak the beans in water overnight. Drain and simmer in 2 quarts {2litml
of water until tcnder, approxim:llcly 30-40 minutes. 2. Saute the venison in the oil lIntit brown. Remove and reserve. 3. SaU{e the garlic, onions and jalapeno in the same pan until tender. Add~ masa harina, chilli powder, cJyenne and cumin. Cook 5 minUies. 4. Add the tomatoes, stock and reserved meat. Cover and braise on the stOlf top or in a 325°F (160°C) oven for 30-40 minutes. 5. Add the beans and cook an additional 15 minutes. Season to taste with sal pepper and Tabasco sauce. 111in with additional stock if necessary. Approximate values per 8-<.>z. (24().g) serving: Calories 320, Total fat 9 g, Saturated fal 2 g. Cld& terol 70 mg, SOdium 510 mg, Tow carboh )·dntcs 31 g, Protein 28 g, Vitamin A IS%. Iron JI
============ ~ =========== REClPE 18.8
GRlUED LOIN OF RABBIT WITH SPINACJJ, F ENNEL AND WHI11i' BEANS GOTHAM BAR AND GRIu., r\1:"«' YORK, I'.'Y ChejlOumer Alfred Portale
Method: Grilling
Yield: 6 Servings Rabbit saddles BaCon slices Lemon, sliced thin Shallots, minced Fresh sage Fresh rosemary Fresh thyme
6 6 I I Thsp. I bunch
3 sprigs 3 sprigs
6 6 15 ml I bunch 3 sprigs 3 sprigs
GMtE
Garlic cloves, sliced thin White peppercorns, cracked OIire oil Ibby fennel , steamed until tender Fresh spinach, steamed 'l'hile Beans (recipe fo llows) Rabbit Sauce (recipe follows)
2
Thsp. as needed 12 heads lib. as needed as needed I
2 15 ml as needed 12 heads 450 g as needed
as needed
1 Bone the saddles, removing the 2 loins and tenderloins. 1 Tigh~y wrap each loin and tenderloin together with half of a slice of
bacon.
J. Place the rolled loins and tenderloins in a shallow container. Sprinkle with the lemon, shallots, herbs, garlic and cracked pepper and drizzle with olive
oil; corer and refriger.uc for 6-8 hours. 4. Bring the rabbit to room temperature. Remove from the marinade and grill orer a medium fire until golden, approximately 6--8 minutes. 1 Cut each loin into medallions and arrange on the plates. Serve with fennel , spinach, White Beans and Rabbit Sauce. ~t~ \'alues per serving: Ca lories 390. Total fat 19 g. Saturated fat 8 g, Cholesterol 140 mg, ..... 700~. ToW carboh}'drates 20 g. Protdn 36 g. Vitamin A 70%
•
.f~ l'~'
WHITE BEA1'lS 2 lb. (,9 kg)
Dried Great Nonhern beans. soaked
Soz.
250 g
I sprig I sprig 1 tsp.
1 sprig 1 sprig 5 ml
~chet,
Onion, small Carrot, 3-in. (S.cm) piece Celery. 2-in. (S.cm) piece Fresh thyme Fresh rosemary Black peppercorns Garlic dove, minced Parsley, chopped fresh rosemary Fresh thyme Whole bUller, softened Salt and white pepper Heavy Cre3ffi
I
I
1 Tbsp.
15 ml
IT IT IT
IT IT 120 g IT
2 oz.
60ml
4 oz.
J. Place the beans and the sachet in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a simmer and cook until tender, approximately 45 minutes.
1 Cream together the garlic, parsley, rosemary, thyme and butter. Season with sail and while pepper. j, Remo\'e the sachet from the cooked beans and pour off all but 3-4 tablespoons (4s-60 milliliters) of the cooking liquid. Return to the heal and swirl in the herb butler and cream. Keep warm. JRIIIIimite \'alues per Io()z. (3Q-g) serving: Calories 45. Total fat 3.5 g. Saturated fat 2 g, Choles· 1NI 10 mg. Sodium 105 mg. Total carboh)'drates 2 g. Protein I g. Vitamin A 4%, Claims---!o", ~: low sodium: no sugar Colltinucd
'""'"
447
448 """
CIIAPl'FJ! 18
RABBIT SAUCE Yield: 1 pI. (450 ml)
Shallots, chopped Clarified buner
1 oz. 1 Thsp. 21Sp.
White wine
4 oz.
White peppercorns
109
15 ml 10m! 120 mI
Brown stock, made from chicken and rabbit bones Salt and white pepper Whole buner
24 oz.
700 ml
IT
IT
3 Thsp.
45 ml
1. Saute the shallots and peppercorns in the clarified butter o\'er low IIl'J! until browned.
2. Add the white wine and reduce by one third. Add the stock :tnd reduce bf one third.
3. Season with salt and white pepper. Monte au beUffe just before senice. Appro~!e values per l-oz. (3G.gJ serving: Calorle!l 45. Total f~t 3 g, SalUrall:d fat 2 g, QD!I. terol to mg, Sodium 320 mg. Total carboh )"dralCII 3 g, Protein I g. Vitamin A 8%, ~ fJI; low cholesterol; no sugar
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 18.9
BRAISED llABBIT WITH CAVATEUI PASTA Ft.T lJiR VIN1:l'A ROS, IIOPlA.,l), CA jolm Ash, Culillary'Director
Yield : 4 Servings Rabbit, 4 lb. (1.8 kg), cut into quarters Salt and pepper Olive oil
Method: Braising I
I
IT
IT
2 oz.
60 ml
8 oz. 60z. 311)sp.
250 g 170g
Chanterelle or shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced Yellow onioo, sliced
Garlic, slivered Carrot, small dice Celery, sliced thin Sun-dried tomatoes, sliced Zinfandel wine Tomato concassee Fresh thyme Fresh sage, minced Rabbit or chicken stock Parsley, chopped fine Fresh basil, chopped Ca\'atelli, cooked Fresh basil sprigs ASiago, Parmesan or Dry Jack cheese, shaved
3 oz. 3 oz. I pl. I pl. I pl. 1 tsp. 1 LSp. 1 qt. 4 l1:>sp. 4 Thsp. 24 oz. as needed for
45 mJ 90g 90g SOO ml 500 m! 500 m! 5 ml 5 rul I It 60 rul 60 ml 700 g garnish
as needed for garnish
GAME
L Season the rabbit pieces with salt and pepper. l in a large saucepan, heal the oil and quickly brown the rabbit. Remove and reSClye .
J, A&;I me mushrooms, onion, garlic, carrots and celery and saute until very tightly browned. " Rerum the rabbit to the pan and add the sun-dried tomatoes, wine, lomaroes, thyme, 5.1ge and stock. Cover and simmer until the rabbit is tender and begins 10 pull away from the oones, approximately 45-50 minutes. " Remove the rabbit, separate the meat from the bones, discard the bones, and cut the meat into bite-sized pieces.
, S
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE IS.1O
GRIllED B UFFALO STFAK Method: Grilling
Y'Jdd: 1 Serving
Buffalo strip loin steak, S oz. (250 g) 53!! and pepper o;J
TT Ilbsp.
TT 15 ml
L Season the sleak well with salt and pepper. 1 Brush with oil and grill to the desired degree of doneness. 1 $er.·e Ihe steak with a full-flavored sauce such as a bordelaise (pg 203) or poivrnde sauce (pg 204) . .IjIpIlItmatc vallleS per serving, without sauce: Ca lories 400, Tot.a.l fat 18 g, Saturated fat 3 g, Ch(). lied 110 mg, SOdium 1290 mg, Total carbohydrates I g, Prote in 61 g, Iron 3(M
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE IS.11
ROAST PHEASANT WITH COGNAC AND APPLES Method: Roasting
Yield: 2 Servings
Pheasant 53h and pepper Fatoock Mil'e]XlL'(
Tart apples
1
1
TT as needed 12 oz. 2
TT as needed 350 g 2 C011liltlied
'"""
449
450
CHAPTER
18 Whole buller Cognac Creme fraiche
1 oz. 3 oz. 4 oz.
30g 90ml 120 g
1, Season the pheasant with salt and pepper. Bard the body with falb~tk 2, Roast on a bed of mirepoix at 350°F (i70°C) until done, approxirmll'n I 1/2 hours. Peel, core and slice each apple imo 8 pieces. Saule the apples in buner umil tender. 4. When the pbeasant is done, remove it from the pan and reserve in a \\:1./111 place. Deglaze the pan with the cognac, add the creme fraiche and 000. 10 a simmer. Strain the sallce and adjust the seasonings. 5. Serve one-half pheasant per person, accompanied by the sliced appb sauce. j.
Approximal(' values per serving, CIIlorics 630, Total rat 4Og, Salur;Jted rat 23g, Cholcstm.li l!l Sodium 13/5OI11g, Tota l carbohydrat~ ZIg. Prote in 46g, Vlt:l.min A 45%
RECIPE 18. 12
STUFFED BREAST OF PHEASANT Yield: 4 Servings Stuffing: Pntnes, chopped fine Apple. chopped fi ne Dried apriCOts, chopped fine Walnuts, chopped fine Onion, chopped fine Salt Pepper Fresh thyme Pheasant breast, boneless Bacon, thin slices IVOry sauce (pg. 20 l)
M ethod:R~
4 oz. 4 oz. I oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. 114 !Sr. 1/4 tsp. 1/2 tsp. 4 8 8 oz.
120 g 120 g 30g 60g 60g 1m! 1 ml 3ml 4 8 250m!
1. Combine the SlUffing ingredients and set aside.
2. Separate each pheasant breast imo 2 pieces. Pound each to a thicMI 1/4 inch (6 millimeters). 3. Place a portion of the stuffing in the center of 4 of the pieces of breo.~ meat. Place a second piece of breast meat over the stuffing. Wrap each p!I cel lightly with 2 slices of bacon and tie with butcher'S [wine. 4. Bake at 325°F (I60°C) until done, approximatel}, 45 minUles. 5. Remove the twine, Clrve each bundle into slices and seIVc with 2 OUJn! (60 milliliters) of ivory sauce. ApPl'QximalC values per serving: CllJories 690. TOlal fat 20 g. $.aIUr;Jled fat 4.5 g. Choleslttol. mg, Sodium :ro mg. Total carbohydrates 33 g, Protein 93 g. Vitamin A 25%. Vit:l.min C
, C..ME
========== ~. ============ RECIPE 18.1 3
GRlUED Q UAIL
WITH POTAI'O GALE1TE, ARTICHOKE WEDGES AND BALSMflC R4SPBERRIES STi\!'\FORD COURT IIOTEL, SA'! FIt>.."OSOO, CA jonller Che] Erco!;110 CfTlg"ale Method: Grilling
Ykld: 6 Servings
Bobwhite quai! :;all and pepper Asparagus tips, 2 in, (5 em) long, peeled and bl:lnched Michoke \'<'edges (recipe follows) Rom:llomatocs, cancassee
6
6
1T
11"
18 pieces
18 pieces 18 pieces
18 pieces 3
Cipolline onions, peeled and glazed with chicken stock and whole butter 12 alireo;] 3 oz. OIicken stock DIy white wine Shlllots, minced
fresh tarragon, chopped fre.h parsley, chopped Preua Calcite (recipe follows) .\ Ii~ed greens such as butter lettuce, }'cllow frisee and radicchio, tom into J-in. (2.5-cm) pieces Basic vinaigrette dressing Balsamic Raspberries (recipe follows) E.'M virgin olive oil
3 12
90 ml
6oz. 6az.
180ml 180 ml
21bsp. 2 Thsp. 2 Thsp.
6 pieces
30 ml 30 ml 30 mt 6 pieces
1 1/2 c. 4 Thsp.
375 m] 60ml
30z,
90ml
I. Season Ihe quail with salt :tnd pepper, and grill on both sides until cooked JUSt under medium. l Saute the asparagus, artichoke wedges, tomatoes and onions in the pu re oJiI·c oil. j. Deglaze the pan with chicken slock and white wine. Add the shallots, tart:!gon and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. t To serve, place a potatO galeue on each plate. Arrange the vegetables Jround the potato. 1 Dress Ihe mixed greens with the basic vinaigrclle dressing and place a small amount in the cenler of each plate. Place the quail on greens. , Place raspberries around the plate; drizzle with extra virgin olive oil.
...,
v:1Iocs pt'T 5tTVing: Calo ries 5~, Total fat 40 g. SatuJ'3lcd fat 10 g, Cho~tc:rol 94 . 5odIum 15}4 mg. Toea( carbo hrdrale!l 14 g, ProI:cin .n g. Vitamin A 95%. VItamin C 1~
Contin lled
"""
451
452 "'"
CIW'l'ER 18
POTATO GALETfE Yield: 6 Gaieties Clarified butter Idaho potatoes, peeled and sliced thin on a mandaline Sail and pepper
as needed
as needed
3
3
IT
IT
1. For each gaielte , completely line the bonom of a buttered 8-inch (2().cm. limeter) pan with potato slices, arranging the slices in a circular, orerlap-
ping pattern. 2. Season with s;llt :md pepper, :md saute until golden brown on each side Hold at room temperature. Approximate values per serving: CaJorln ISO, Toud fat
ARTICHOKE WEDGES Yield : 20 Pieces
4 oz.
Olive oil
120 g
Artichoke bottoms, turned and cleaned,
cut in q uarters GarliC, minced
Freshthyme, chopped Chicken stock lemon juice White wine Salt and white pepper
5
5
2Thsp. I Thsp.
30ml
I pt.
15 ml 500 ml
2 oz.
60g
4 oz.
120 g IT
IT
1. Over high heat, saute the artichokes in the olive oil for 2 minutes. 2. Add the garlic, thyme and 4 ounces (120 grams) chicken stock; reduceauset 3. Add the lemon juice, white wine and seasonings; reduce au sec. 4. Add another 6 ounces (170 grams) chicken stock; reduce au sec. 5. Add the remaining chicken stock; reduce au sec. TIle artichokes should ~ glazed, crisp and tender. Appruximate values per serving, Calories 60, TOlal fat 6 g, Satu rated fat 1 g. Cholmerol 0.,. Sodium 120 mg, Total carbohydrates 1 g, Protein I g, Cla ims-low S3tU11lted fat; no ~ low sodium; no sugar
BALSAMIC RASPBERRIES Yield: 1 qt.
Raspberries, ripe but finn Balsamic vinegar Pepper
I qt.
1 I,
6oz.
170 g
1 lSp.
5ml
1. Gently combine all ingredients. 2. Let the raspberries macerate for 15 minutes. 3. Strain off the vinegar and reserve. Approximate values per serving: Calories 15, Total fat 0 g, Saturated fat 0 So Cholesterol 0 III Sodium 0 mg. TOlal carboh r drate!i -4 g, Prole in 0 g, Vitamin A 0%, Clalms-fat free; no saru.'lI!I fat; 1\0 cholesterol; no sodium
HAPTER
1 JH AND
fl)'ltlg Fish, Senule WA. Cbel-Ou·tler CbrlSIl:,e Keff
=== ~ === After sludring this chapter, you will be able 10: ~ understand the structure and
composition of fish and shellfish <"'0..
identify
,I variety of fish and
shellfish <"'0...
purchase fish and shellfish ap-
("\!\,
store fish and shellfish properly
propriate for yom needs <"'0..
prepare fish
<"'0..
apply various cooking methods 10 fish and shellfish
ish are aquatic ve,tebrates with fins Jar swimming and gli Jor breathing. Of the more than thilty thOUSGlld species knowlI, nus live in the seas and oceans,. freshwater species are far less 1Illmerou!. Shellfish are aquatic inve,tebrates with shells or carapaces. 7be)'tJrt found in both fresh and salt water.
f.".
Always an imporlant food source, fish and shellfish bm:e beea... 10 de./IIa",li health-conscious consumer::,', Because of increased demand proved preseroation and transportation techniques, . and shel/flSh, once found only along seacoasts and fakes, are readily available to almost evelY food se/vice operation. Many fish and shellfisb species are velY expensive; all are bigb~ perishable, Because tbeir cooking limes are generally sborler and their flavors more delicate than meat or poUltry, speCial at!el1l~ must be given to fish and shelJfisb to prevent spoilage mId 10 produa high-quality finished products, In this chapter, you will/eanl how 10 identify a large aSSOrlmelllq fish and shellfish as well as how to properly purchase alld store IMt fabricate or prepare them for cookillg and cook them bya IJanetyq dry-heat and moist-heat cooking methods. 7bis chapter presen1s many of the cooking methods applied to meats and poultry ill tbefJfPvious chapters. Review the c017'espondi/lg procedures for meals anJ pouluy, and note the similarities and differences. increasingly popular in recent years, due in part
STRUCTURE AND M USCLE COMPOS1770N
.n
The fish and shellfish used in food service operations can be divided into t categories: fish , mollusks and cntstaceans. Fish (Fr. poisson) include bOlh fresh- and saltwater varieties, TIley hare fins and an internal skeleton of bone and canilage, Based upon shape and skektal stntcture, fi sh can be divided into two groups: round fish and flatfub. Round fish swim in a venical position and have eyes on both sides of tbei heads. Their bodies may be truly round, oval or compressed. Flatfish Im't asymmetrical , compressed bodies, swim in a horizontal position and hare !xC eyes on top of their heads. Flatfish are bottom dwellers; most are found iI deep ocean waters around the world, TIle skin on lOp of their bodies is da:t to camouflage them from predators, and can change color according to tber surroundings. Their scales are small, and Iheir dors.al and anal fins run Ilr length of their bodies. Mollusks (Fr. mol/usque) are shellfish charaaerized by soft, unsegmented bodies with no internal skeleton, :-" Iost mollusks have hard outer shells. Sin#shelled mollusks such as abalone are known as univalves, TIlOse with tv.\l shells, such as dams, oysters and mussels, arc known as bivalves. Squid an:! OCtopus, which are known as cephalo pods, do not have a hard outer sheIJ. Rather, they have a single thin internal shell called a pen or C/Iulebol/e,
FISH AND SHELLFISH C'V\.
457
~--"
rrntl9.l
&me StNlctllre 0/(1 Hound Fisb
Ctustaceans (Fr. ems/ac€) are also shellfish. TIley have a hard outer skeleDIll' shell and jointed appendages. Cmstaceans include lobsters, crabs and
Dmlp. The Oesh of fish and shellfish consists primarily of <;>.'
Till (C2lIbI fin) ~
~~~~~~~~"'~M~l~
_l~"_)
, {"
... -----"'1,
R,. Bolle Slnlclllre of(l Flaljisb
~'""lll'i,
~ == S1!AFOQD
Seafood means different thing; 10 different plWle. For some, the tenn applies just 10 shellfish or 10 shellfish and other small edible marine creatures. For others, it is limited 10 saltwater shellfish or to saltwater shellfish and fish, For )'1!t others, it refer.; to all fish and shellfish, both freshw.ucr and saltv.'atef. Because of the tenn's vagueness, it is not used here,
458
-.~
ClIAPTF.R 19
IDENTIFYING FISH AND SHELLFISH .n, Identifying fish and shellfish properly can be difficult because of the \"aSt number of similar-appearing fish and shellfish that are separate species withineJi family. Adding confusion are the V'driOUS colloquial names given to the sallI1 fish or the same name given to different fish in different localities. Fisb II"D an unappealing name may also be given a catchier name or the name of 3!Oil:.r but more popular item for marketing purposes. /\;!oreover, some speci:s are referred 10 by a fore ign name, especially on menus. The FDA publishes a list of approved market names for food fish in 7lr Fish List: FDA Guide to Acceptable Marl..>et Names for Food Fish Sold in II/IfF· slale Commerce 1988, available from the U.s. Government Printing Offxt Washington D.C. Deviations from this list :Ire strongly discouraged but diffi~ to enforce. We attempt to list the most commonly used names for each ~etD. whether they are zoologically accurate or no\.
Fish
Striped &lSS Anadromous--a [ISh Ibal migrala from sallu'fller mibi/llilo sptlll11 i/l fresb Inlier.
(I
AquaCarming---also IIII00m (IS (lIlu(ICullure, is !be bllsiness, science flllt! prtlClice of raising Inrge qlloll/i!ies ofjisb allfl sbellfi;b ill IImils, POtltis or 00!lI1I pens; us«! e${J6ddl/y for cot/ISh, /rr)1I1, salmoll, shrimp al/d OIber /XfIllfar jisb and shell· fob·
Round Pisb Bass (Fr. bar) commonly refers to a number of unrelated spiny·finned fun The better-known freshwater bass varieties (largemouth, smallmoulh. ~ and black) are actually members of the sunfish family. They are lean and ~ icate but, as game, not commercially available in the United States. The sj. water bass varieties (black sea bass and striped bass) are popular co~ items. Black sea bass are sometimes referred to as rock sea bass. They halt I lean, firm white flesh with a mild flavor and flaky texture. They usuallr IW" from I 112 to 3 pounds (680-1360 grams) and are most prevalent in the.\Ilantic Ocean between New York and Nonh Carolina . Black sea bass am tr prepared by almost any cooking method and are often served whole in Qi. nese and Italian cu isines. Striped bass, often erroneously referred to as rockfish, are anruiro[IJ(JII Tme striped bass cannot be marketed because pollution and overfishing ha\~ damaged the supply. A hybrid of striped bass and either white bass or whir perch is being aquafarmed for commercial use, however. It is this hybrid !hi food service operations receive as striped bass. Whole fish weigh from 1to i pounds (450 grams to 2.2 kilograms). Striped bass have a rich, sweet n3\·a and firm texture. They can be steamed, baked, poached or broiled.
Catfish are scaleless freshwater fish common in southern lakes and rivers and now aquafarmed extensively. Aquafarm raising eliminates the ~ muddy" flavor once associated with catfish and ensures a year-round supply. The flesh is pure white with a moderate fat comem, a mild, sweet flavor and firm texture. Channel catfish are the most Catfoh importdm commercially. They usually weigh from I 1/2 to 5 pounds (650 grams to 2.2 kilograms). TIle smaller of these fish are knowlIl:I fiddlers; they are often deep-fried and served whole. Catfish may be prepared by almost any cooking method, but are especially well suited to frying. The cod (Fr. cabillolld) family includes Atlantic and Pacific cod as weU 1:1 pollock, haddock, whiting and hake. Cod have a mild, delicate flavor and 1e2ll. finn white flesh that flakes apart easily. Cod Gin be prepared by most cookilf
FISH AND SiIElLFlSfI ~
459
~ ====== SURIMI
Sunmi is made from a highly ~ 1M p... oolore!, fl,-
1111 3M shaped to resemble ~, IOOstet crab or . , sIrIlfish. Most suriIi ilbasEdonAlaskan px!. 001 some .... include I'lrying ~ cI real crab, ~ or other Items. Available chilled or itIen. suomi is already fully cooked and ackI to salads, pasta, sauces or other
"10
dishes. Surimi is very 1CM' in fat and relatil'fly high in protein. Bocause of proressing techniques, hOll'e\'er, it has more sodium and fewer vitamins and minerals than the real fish or shellfish it replXl3. Americans now COIlSUIIlt' more than 100 million pounds of surimi each )1!ar, and ilS ropularity continues to grow. The FDA requires that all surimi prexlUCIS be labeled
"imitation. "
a.:!hOO.s, although grilling is not recommended because the flesh is too
am-
AlIantic cod are the best-selling fish in America. They are 1\:.tibblt fresh, whole or drawn, or cut into fillets or steaks.
t1k». are also available frozen and are often used for precooked or prebreaded sticks or ponions. Smoked cod and !U rod are also available. Although cod may reach 200 pounds IS') kilograms), most market cod weigh 10 pounds (4.4 kilopn) or less. Scrod is a marketing term for cod weighing less than 112 pounds (1.1 kilograms). Haddock, the second most commercially imponant fish , look like thin, small .UUnlic rod and weigh abollt 2 to 5 pounds (900 grams to 2.3 kilograms). They hile a stronger flavor and more delicate texture than Atlantic cod. Pacific cod, also known as gray coo, are found in the nonhern Pacific ~ and are nOI as abundant as their Atlantic cousins. Pacific cod are mOst iten al'aiJable frozen; they should be labeled "tme cod" to distinguish them from rock cod and bhlck cod, which are unrelated. Pollock, also known as Boston bluefish or blue cod, are plentiful in the tmhem Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Their flesh is gray-pink when ml", turning white when cooIied Pollock are dten frozen at sea, men reprocessed into !Il!imi.1bey can also be Pollock ukI.'d or smoked. Etls (Fr. allBllille) are long, snakelike freshwater fish .iIl dorsal and anal fins running the length of their bod1:'1 (The conger eel is from a different famil y and has little culinu)" significance.) American and European eels are available ~"f, whole. gutted or as fillets. Eels have a high fat comem and firm ibh; they are sweet and mildly flavored. Their tough skin should be removed Iiore cooking. Eels may be steamed, baked, fried or used in slews. Baby eels Jltaspringtime delicacy, especially in Spain, where they are pan-fried in olive ~ and garlic with hot red peppers. Smoked eels are also available.
AlkmUc Cod
)
Eel
, 460
c"'0
ClWTJTiR
19 The grouper family includes almost four hundred varieties found in tl'It perate waters worldwide. The more common Atlantic Ocean varieties are dl yellowfin grouper, black grouper, red grouper and gag; the Pacific Ckean I.. rie(ies are the sea b.1SS (also known as jewfish and different flI"" the black sea b.1SS) and spotted cabrilla. Although some spett' can reach 800 pounds or more, mOst commercial l"arielies:.tt sold in the 5-to-20-pound (2.2-t0-8.8-kilogram) rnnge. 11rhave lean white flesh with a mild to sweet flavor and I"err fino texture. Their skin, which is tough and strongly flavored. is p erally removed before cooking. Grouper fill ets may be 00Ra. deep-fried, broiled or grilled.
Grouper
Herring {Fr. harenlY are long, silvery-blue fish found in both the northm Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Their strongly fl:lVored flesh has a moderate!O high fat content. Whole herring weigh up to 8 ounces (225 grams). Fresh herring may be butternied or filleted and roasted, broiled or grilled. But beaU)[ herring are very soft and tend to spoil quickly, they are rarely available rl"l':ih More often, they are smoked (and known as kippers) or cured in brine. Sardines (Fr. sardine) are young, small herring with a fany , oily f1eshlhl has a flaky texture. Sardines are usually sold canned , whole or as skinned ~ boned filleLS, or fried or smoked and pllcked in oil or sauce. Sardines are llit'Il primarily for sandwiches and 5<1Iads. John Dory, also known as SI. Peter's fish , have a distinctive round, black s]>Ot with a yellow halo on each side of the body. Their flesh is white, fi rm and finely flaked. They may be filleted and prepared like fl ounder and are a classic bouillabaisse ingredient.
Mackerel (Fr. /1/aqllereall) of culinary imponance include king and Sp.o; ish mackerel as well as lUna and wahoo, which are discussed separ.lIelr la!i' The species known as Atlantic and Pacific mackerel are not generally usedb food because of their small size and high fat content. J\hckerel flesh has a hip fa t comem, gray to pink coloring, a mild flavor and flaky texture. TIle nesh~ comes fi rm and off-white when cooked. Mackerel are best broiled, grilIeo smoked or baked.
JI/ackerel
Mahi·Mahi
Mo"kfish Tail
job" [}(H)'
Mahi-mahi is the more commonly used name for dolphin or dolphinfisD. this Hawaiian name is used to dist inguish them from the marine mammal the same name. (Dolphins and porpoises are nurnr mammals.) Also known by their Spanish IUllk dorado, mahi-mahi are brilliantly colored fi!iI found in tropical seas. Mahi-mahi weigh ab:u 15 pounds (6.6 kilograms) and are sold \lid: or as fillets. nleir flesh is off-white to pO. lean and timl with a sweet fla vor. Dolphinfti: can be broiled, grilled or baked. The meat 1IlJ~' ~ come dry when cooked, however, SO a 5.1UCe or marinade is recomlIl!.'fK.leo. Monkfish are also known as :lI1gler fish , goosefish, rape and looe. TIn eXlraordinarily ugly fish arc rarely seen whole, for the large head is usUllly & carded before reaching market. Only the tail is edible; it is available in fiIkt. fresh or frozen. The scaleless skin must be removed. The flesh is lean. pearir white and very firm. Its texture and flavor have earned monkfish the nicknanr of "poor man's lobste r. ~ Monkfish absorb flavors easily and are ookl'3. steamed, fried, grilled or broiled. They are ltlSO llsed for stews and soups.
FlSH AND SHElJ..FISH
Onnge roughy are caught in the South Pacific off the coasts of New lllilnd and Australia. TIley have bright orange skin and firm , pearly-white 8eIh with a low fat content and extremely bland flavor. Orange roughy are alIIllII aJw:I)'s marketed as skinless, boneless frozen fillets, averaging 6 to 8 me (140 (0 225 grams) each. Widely available year-round, they can be tmIed. stt'amed, grilled or prepared in the same manner as cod. ltd snapper is also known as the American or northern red snapper. AIM1gh there are many members of the snapper family. only one is the true red snapper. Red-skinned rockfish are often mislabeled as the more popular red snapper or Pacific snapper, a praclice that is currently legal only in California. True red snapper has lean , pink flesh that becomes white when cooked; fltdSMptJer it is sweet flavored and flaky. They are sold whole or as fillets with the skin left on for identification. kd snapper may reach 35 pounds, but most are marketed at only 4 to 6 ~ (J .8 to 2.7 kilograms) or as 1- 10 3-pound (450-gram to I.3-kilogram) fiot, Red snapper can be prepared using almost any cooking method. The IrJd and bones are excellent for stock.
Salmon (Fr,
SflIIl/IOIl)
flollrish in both the nonhern Atlantic and Pacific
Wroon flesh gets its distinctive pink-red color from fat-soluble caf(){enoids bJnd in the crustaceans on which they feed . .\lIantk salmon is the most important commercially, a:coonting for one quarter of all salmon produced worldE.~tensi\·e aquafarms in Norway, Canada and ScOtID! produce a steady supply of Atlamic salmon. For Bitketing purposes, the fish 's point of origin is often lOled to the name (for example, Norwegian, Scottish or h1hnd Atlantic salmon). Atlantic salmon have a rich pink air and moist flesh. Their average weight is from 4 10 12 pounds Alftmlic Salmon 1I.8!0 5.4 kilograms). Wild Atlantic salmon are almost never available. Chinook or king salmon from the Pacific are also highly desirable. They IImge fronl 5 to 30 pounds (2.2 10 13.2 kilograms) and have ruklrange flesh with a high fat content and rich fla\'or. Like 00Ier salmon, their flesh separates into large flakes when a:died. Chinooks are often marketed by the name of the lilt!' from which they are harvested (for example, Columbia, 1'ukooor Copper Chinook salmon). They are distinguished by it black interior of their mouth, Coho or silver salmon have a pinkish flesh and are available fresh or Chinook or King Sa/mOil !men, wild or from aquafarms. Wild coho average from 3 10 12 pounds (1.3 lJ;A kilograms), while aquafarmed coho are much smaller, usually less than I [XlUnd (450 grams). Odter varieties, such as chum, sockeye, red, blueback and pink salmon, are IIlWllr canned but may be available fresh or frozen. S3lroon em be prepared by many cooking methods: broiling, grilling, poach~ Steaming or baking. Frying is not recommended, however, because of their bi¢I fa! content. Salmon fillets are often cured or smoked. Gravlax is salmon til has been cured for one to three days with salt, sugar and dill. Lox is salmon .. has been cured in a salted brine and then, typically, cold-smoked. Nova is Mini Coho StUmon II!ed in the eastern United States to refer to a less-salty, cold-smoked salmon.
m
("'\!\,
46J
462
~
CIW'l1!R 19
Sharks provide delicious eating, despite their less-than-appealing aPId" ance and vicious reput,1tion. Mako and blue sharks are the most desir3lk with mako often being sold as swordfish. ~ shark, sharpnose, blacktip, angel and are also available commercially. .\ill sharks have lean flesh with a mild ftMo and fiml texture. The flesh is whitnll tinges of pink or red when raw, rumq off-white when cooked. Makos weighn 81acktipShark 30 to 2;0 pounds (13.5 to 112.5 kilogmm other species may reach as much as 1000 ~ (450 kilograms). All sharks have cartilaginous skelel
Till/pia
Su'Ordfisb J1Ii
TiJapia is the name given to se\'eral species of freshwater, aquafarm-rai
/-'/SII AND SIfEiJJ-7SH
~.
463
~l waters around the world. I ~eral hundred pounds each.
Tuna are large fish , weighing up Bluefin, the finest and most ibir:JbIe for sashimi, are becoming very scarce because of mingo Regular canned tuna is usually prepared from ~fin or skipjack; canned white tuna is prepared from ibrore. also known as longfin tuna . Pacific lUna Ihat is !IoZtn at sea to preserve its freshness is referred to as clipil'l6sh. Any of these species may be found fresh or frozen, k1/.·~·er. Tuna is usually cut into four boneless loins for markel. Ttl' Ioiru, are then cut into steaks, cubes or chunks. TIle flesh has a mto moderate fat content (a higher f:11 contem is preferred for sashimi) and I &-ql red color. The dark, reddish-brown muscle that runs along the lateral Itt i:. very fatty and can be removed. Tuna flesh t"Urns light gray when cooked IIKI is \·ery firm, with a mild flavor. Tuna work well for grilling or broiling and DtI) be marinated or brushed with seasoned oil during cooking. Tuna are dtl'Il prepared medium r3re to prevent dryness.
Yel/ou:/i1l TII1I(I
~ == TRASH FISH
also known as ono, are found throughout tropical and subtropical \1It'fS, but are particularly associated with Hawaii (0110 even means "good to 01· in Hawaiian). They are actually a rype of mackerel and are cooked like any other mackerel.
Ocean pout are considered a ··trash fish:' or fish ~lat fishernlell throw away because there is linle or no consumer demand and therefore no market raJue. 1.oog ago, lobster ..-ere considered trash and good for nothing but chicken feed. More recently, monkfish was a trash fish in the U.S., and !lOW we can't get enough. Obscure species are often trash fish until someone somewhere tastes them and realize; that they offer some incredible fla\'OfS and textures. Searobins, dogfish, skate, and whiting
lbiteftsh sl~des inhabit the freshwater lakes and SIfe3ms of North \mnica. Lake whitefish, thc mOSt imponam commercially, arc related to u!oon. They arc marketed at up 10 7 pounds (3.2 kilograms) and are availJNe \\ooJe or filleted. The flesh is firm lfkI \\"hite, with a moderate ammlOt Ii. fat 30cl a SlVcct flavor. Whitefish 1m}" be baked, broiled, grilled or m,[.:t'd and ;lre often used in ~d fish produclS. WlJilejisb
are still considered trash fish in America, though they are gradually becoming more popular and will someday be readily available at fish markets. from nil; GRFD A'I/£RICAN SEAJ-"OOIJ COOFBOOK by SuS<.N HERRM...';:.' Loo.IUS
l 'ahoo,
IItftsh
Ibmder (Fr. fleI) have lean, firm flesh that is pearly or pinkish-white with a mild flavor. Although they are easily boned, most are deheade'(l and pJkd 3t sea and sold as fresh or frozen fillelS. TIlese fillelS are very thin and em dry out or spoil easily, SO eXIra care should be taken in handling, preparqand storing them. Recipes that preserve moisntre work best with flounder; p;lIChing. steaming or frying are recommended. Many types of flounder are marketed as sole. perhaps in an allempl 10 cash in on the popularity of true Qt. The FDA permits this practice. English sole arc actually flounder caught off the \Vest Coast of the United ~b They are usually marketed simply as ~ fil1et of sole.~ TIley are a plentikj of fair to avel"'Jge quality. PnraIe sole. another WIest Coast flounder, are generally considered the fincst of the domestic "soles." They are most often avail~ as fillcts, which tend to be thicker and firmer than other sole
111.\1,
Irroes
iI<1>.
Pc/rale Sole
l
464 .....,.
CIIAI'TER 19
TABLE
19.1 "'"
FLOUNDER
(ALso
KNOWN AS SoLE)
Atlantic Ocean
Pacific Ocean
Blackback/ W'imer floun(!erI Lemon sole
Arrowtooth
Fluke/ Summer flounder Starry flounder
Petrale sole
Yell OWl ail flounder
English sole
Windowpane flounder
Rock sole Sand sole
Rex sole
Gray solel\Vitch flounder
Yellowfin sole Domestic Dovcr solclPacific flounder
Buner sole
Domestic Dover sole are also Pacific flounder. They are
nOl
as delicate
flavorful as other species of sole or flounder. Moreover, they are oflen alfu:ttt
with a parasite that causes their flesh \0 have a slimy, gelatinous texture. [» mestic Dover sole are not recommended if other sole or flounder are al'aihtt Lemon sole are the most abundant and popular Easl Coast flounder.l1tI are also known as blackback or winter flounder (during the winter, they It grate dose to shore from the deeper, colder waters). They average 2 ~ (900 grams) in weigh!. LemOI/ Sole
Alasktill llalibul
Halibut are among the largest flatfish; they often wti¢ up to 300 pounds (135 kilograms). The tIl! recognizes only two halibut speM Atlantic (eastern) and Paci (northern, Alaskan, \\·estern)fI. ibu!. Both have lean, finn Ret that is snow-white with a SWl.'d. mild flavor. California halibut. whO are actually flounder, are similarinlN and texture but average only 12 pcMlIU (5.4 kilograms) each. Halibutma)'~1lI into boneless steaks or skewered re brochettes. The flesh, which d~ (I easily, can be poached, baked, griUeda broiled and is good with a variety of SOlli(t!.
"
Tnle Dover Sole
Sole (Fr. sale) are probably the mOSl flavorful and finely textured flatfi5h.!adeed, because of the connotations of quality associated with the name, -sole', widely used for many species that are not members of the sole (SoleidaeJ famh Even though the FDA allows many species of flatfish to be called ·sole' forml keting purposes, no tnle sale is commercially harvested in American waters. Am flatfish harvested in American waters and marketed as sole is actually floun
FISH AND SJIFJ.,LFISH ~
465
Mollusks iliraiL¥!S lor.
mia. but Califomia
law does not permit canning abalone or shipping it out
ri \tate. Some frozen abalone is available from Mexico; canned abalone is impxloo from Japan. Abalone are lean with a sweet, delicate flavor similar to mal of clams. They arc 100 tough to eat unless tenderized with a mallet or rdling pin. They may then be ell!cn raw or prepared seviche-style. Great care IOOSI be taken when grilling or sauteing abalone as the meat becomes very klIgh when overcooked. Conch are found in warm waters off the Florida Keys and in the C1ribbean.
nw: beautiful peachy-pink shell of the queen conch is prized by beachCOO1bers. Conch meat is lean, smooth and very firm with a sweet-smoky flavor nI chewy texture. It can be sliced and pounded 10 tenderize it, eaten raw .ldt lime juice or slow-cooked whole.
IimIres Bil'aJws are mollusks wilh two bilateral shells attached by a central hinge. Cbms (Fr. clovisses) are harvested along boI:h the East and West (oaSIS, tih Atlantic dams being more significant commercially. Atlantic Coast clams O:!ude hard-shell, soft-shell and surf clams. Clams are available all year, either ~t in the shell or fresh-shucked (meal removed from the shell). Canned dams, whether minced, chopped or whole, are also available. Adanlic hard-shell clams or quahogs hllve hard, blue-gray shells. TIleir 00)' meat is not as sweet as other dam meat. Quahogs have difnt names, depending upon their size. Littlenecks are generJIIj' under 2 inches (5 centimeters) across the shell and usually art served on the half shell or ste'lmed. 111ey are the most expensire dnms. Cherrystones are gener:llly under 3 inches r,;centimctcrs) across the shell and are sometimes eaten raw tu are more often cooked. Topnecks are usually cooked and It often served as stuffed clams. Chowders, the largest qua~ are always eaten cooked, especially minced for chowder cr mp. \ Cbe"yslones Soft·shell clams, also known as Ipswich, steamer and longmed dams, have thin, brinle shells thaI do not completely close because of it- cbm's protmding black-tipped siphon. Their meat is tender and sweet. ~. are somClimes fri ed hut are more often served steamed. Surf clams are deep-water clams that reach sizes of 8 inches (20 centimetrs) across. They are most often cut into strips for frying or are minced, dKJpped, processed and canned. Pacific dams are genef'Jlly tOO tough to eat f'JW. TIle most common is the IIIIlib. clam, which was introduced along the Pacific coast during the 193Os. Ieiembling a quahog with a ridged shell, it can be served steamed or on the .bf shell. Geoducks are the largest Pacific clam, sometimes weighing up to iO IWntls (4.5 kilograms) ellch. TIley look like huge soft-shell darn.s with a large, praruding siphon. 11lcir tender, rich bodies and briny flavor are popular in &sian cuisines.
-
SNAILS
==
Allhoogh snails (more politely knOll-lI by their French name, e5alrgolS) are univah~ land animals, they share many characteristics with their marine cousins. They can be poached in court bouillon or removed from their shells and boiled or baked briefly with a seasoned butter or snuce. They should be finn but tender; overcooking makes snails tough and chewy. The mOSl popular varieties are the large white Burgundy snail and the small garden variety called peW gris. Fresh snails are available from snail ranches through speciality suppliers. The great majority of snails, however, are purthased canned; [nosl canned snails are pnxluced. in FI'all(E or Taiwan.
lilllellecks
TOPllecks
Soft-Shell CltllllS
M(milt, CIt'IIIS
466
.~,
CHAJTf'ER 19
Cockles are small bivalves, about 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) long, with rid~ shells. The}' are more popular in Europe than the United States and are.\M' times used in dishes such as paella and fish soups or stews. Mussels (Fr. mOille) are found in waters worldwide. They are excelks steamed in wine or seasoned broth and can be fried or used in soups or pasta dishes. Blue mussels are the most common edible mussel. They are found in the wild along the Atlantic Coast and are aquafanned on both coasts. Their meat is plump and sweet with a firm , muscular texture. The orangishyellow meat of cultivated mussels tends to be much larger than that of wild mussels and therefore worth the added cost. Blue mussels :lre sold live in the shell :lnd average from 10 to 20 per pound. Although available all year, the best-qu1tlity blue mussels are harvested during the winter months. Bille AIm Greenshell (or greenlip) mussels from New Zealand and Thailand are much larger than blue mussels, averaging 8 to 12 mussels per pound. Their shells are paler gray. wilh distinctive bright-green edge. Greellshell Mussels
Oysters (Fr. hllitre) have a rough gray shell. l11eir soft, gray, briny fl esh can be eaten raw directly from the shell. They can also be steamed or baked in the shell or shucked and fried , saut(>e
FISH AND SJ/ELLFISH
contain an edible white adductor muscle thai holds together the shells. Because they die quickly, they are almost always shucked cleaned on-board ship. The sea scallop and the bay scallop, both coldI... and the calico scallop, a w:um-waler variety, are the most imcommercially. Sea scallops are the largest, with an average count of per rx>und. larger sea scallops are also available. Bay scallops average ]X'f pound; calico scallops :lverage 70-110 per pound. Fresh or frozen cleaned scallops are the most common market form, but live scallops shell and shucked scallops with roe attached (very popular in Europe) also a\·ailable. Scallops are sweet, with a tender texture. Raw scallops be a translucent ivory color, nonsyrnmetrically round and should feel . They can be steamed, broiled, grilled, fried, sauteed or baked. When ~erox>ked, however, scallops quickly become chewy and dry. Only exrmnely fresh scallops should be eaten r::tw.
,",""'i',>,
Sea Sctl/lops
fJpbaIopods CtphJlopods are marine mollusks with distinct heads, well-developed eyes, a surber of anns that attach to the head near the mouth and a saclike fin-bearmg numJe. They do not have an outer shell; instead, there is a thin internal M ("J.Ued a pell or cli/f/ebolle. Octopus is generally quite tough and requires mechanical tenderization or cooking to make it pai:nable. Most octopuses are imported hi Portugal. though fresh ones are llvailable on the East Coast during the mer Octopus is sold by the pound, fresh or frozen, usually whole. OctOpus !bl b gray when raw, turning purple when cooked. The interior flesh is me, lean. fiml and fla\'orful. ~ moi~-heat
Squid, known by their [talian name, C(lialllllri, are becoming increasingly p:p.tbr in this country. Simil:tr to octopuses but much smaller, they are harI'C&ed along both American coasts and clsewhcre around the world (the finest Rtbe East Coast loligo or winter squid). They range in size from an average dS-lO per pound to the giant South Amencan squid, tMh is sold as tenderized steaks. ·nle squid's _.-...__ t!llcles, mantle (body tube) and nns are edi~. Squid meat is white to ivory in color, IUrnq! darker with age. [t is modenltely lean, iightly sweet. firm and tender, but it toughens ~kl\' if overcooked. Squid are available either irrIh or frozen and packed in blocks. Squid
Crustaceans Crusuceans are fou nd in both fresh and ~ lt water. They have a hard outer *II and jointed appendages, and they breathe through gills. Cnyfish (Fr. ecrevisse), gener:llIy called craJ/lSh in the Nonh ad craujisb or crawdad in the SoUlh, are freshwater creatures .. kxlk like miniature lobsters. They are harvested from me til or aquafarmed in Louisiana and the Pacific Nonhwesl. ~. are from 3 112 to 7 inches (8 to [7.5 centimeters) in ¥ when marketed and may be pllfchased live or prelJXlked and frozen. TIle lean me.H, found mostly in the tail , 1~1'Ct and tender. Cntyfish can be boiled whole and served Ix or cold. The tail meat can be deep-fried or used in soups, li5que or sauces. Cntyfish are a staple of Cajun cuisine, often used in
CmJ'.ftsb
~,
467
468
~
CIIAPTER 19
gumbo, etouffee and jambalaya. Whole crayfish become brilliant red \\1 cooked and may be used as a garnish.
Dlmgeness Crab
Stolle Cmb
Maille Wbster
Crabs (Fr. crabe) are found along the North American coast in great bers and are shipped throughout the world in fresh , frozen and canned ~ Crab meat varies in flavor and texture and can be used in a range of prep:m dishes, from chowders to cllrries to casseroles. Crabs purchased live last lip 10 fi\'e days; dead crabs should not be used. King crabs are very large crabs (usually around 10 pounds or 4.'1 grams) caught in the very cold waters of the nonhern Pacific. Their meal very sweet and snow-white. King crabs are always sold frozen, usually in lit shell. In-shell forms include sections or clusters. legs and claws or spJitiro TIle meat is also available in "fancy " packs of whole leg and body IlX'3l. shredded and minced pieces. Dungeness crabs are found along the West Coast. They weigh! H 10 pounds (680 grams to 1.8 kilograms), and have delicate, sweet meat. TheplI sold live, precooked and frozen, or as picked me:l1 , usually in 5-pound (1._ kilogram) vacuum-packed cans. Blue crabs are found along the entire eastern seaboard and account for approximately 50% of the total weight of all crab species harvested in the United States. Their meat is rich and sweet. l3lue crabs are available as hard-shell or soft-shell. Hard-shell crabs are sold live, precooked and frozen , or as picked meat. Soft-shell crabs are those harvested within six hours aftcr moltBlwu. ing and are available live (generally only from ~-lay 15 to Sej){ember 15) or frozen . TIley are often steamed and served whole. '< shells can be Sauteed, fried , broiled or added to or stews. Blue crabs are sold by size, with an :lI"ernge ameter of 4-7 inches (10-18 cemimeters). Soft-Shell Crabs Snow or spider crabs are an abundant species. m. often used as a substitllte for the scarcer and more exp.'llsive king crab. They are harvested from Alaskan waters and along the easlt'll coast of Canada. Snow cm!) is sold precooked, usually frozen. The meal rz. be used in soups, salads, omelets or other prepared dishes. Legs are liL served cold as an appetizer. Stone crabs are genemlly ava ilable only as cooked claws, either fresh frozen (the claws cannot be frozen raw because the meat sticks to the sheU) stone-crab fishery, only the claw is harvested. After the claw is remowd.. crab is returned to the water where, in approximately 18 months, it regenerao a new claw. Claws a\'erage 2 1/2 to 5 1/2 ounces (75 to 155 grams) each.lJ meat is fi rm, with a sweet flavor similar to lobster. Cracked claws are sentdt or cold, usually with cocktail s.1uce, lemon butler or other accompanirnerti Lobsters have brown 10 blue-black outer shells and firm, white meal' a rich, sweet flavor. Lobster shells turn red when cooked. They are ~ poached, steamed, simmered, baked or grilled, and can be served hot a Picked meat can be used in prepared dishes, soups or S.1ulI~S. LobstefS au; be kept alive until just before cooking. Dead lobsters should nOl: be eaten.1\Maine, also known as Americ::m or clawed lobster, and the spiny lobster. the most commonly marketed species. Maine lobsters have edible me-.Il in both their t:tils and claws: they_ considered superior in flavor to all other lobsters. They come from the«
f7S11 AND SIIELLFISH \1It'rS along the Nonheast Coast and are mOSt often sold 1ft. :\!aine lobsters may be purchased by weight (for exCoral . , ! 1/4 pounds [525 grams], 1 1/2 pounds [650 JllII.'i] or 2 pounds 1900 gramsl each), or as chix (Ihal is, ,knlter weighing less than one pound [450 grams]). Izine lobsters may also be purchased as culls Oobsters Qh only one claw) or bullets Oobsters with no claws). TIl1' are available frozen or as cooked, picked meat. FtgUre 19.3 shows a cross section of a Maine lobsler uI identifies the stomach, tomalley (the olive-green ilt'f) and coral (the roe). -nle stomach is not eaten; Ihe _It)' and coral are very Oavorful anu ;Ift: uften u~eu lIihe preparation of s;luces and other items. Spiny lobsters have very small claws and are valu~ only for their meaty tails, which are notched with FIGUR~ 19.3 tM spines. Nearly all spiny lobsters marketed in this crunlry are sold as frozen tails, often identified as rock kbster. Harvested in many parts of the world, those found off Florida, Bmzil nI in the Caribbe:m are marketed as warm-water tails; those found off South AfrKa, Austr'Jlia and New Zealand are called cold-water tails. Cold-water spiny iii:; 3re considered superior to their warm-water cousins. Slipper lobster, lobsterclte and squat lobster are all clawless species bmd in tropical, subtropical and temper-lie waters worldwide. Although popa in some countries, their Oavor is inferior to both Maine and spiny lobsters. IIDjp:Iusline arc small orth Atlantic lobsters.
~
469
T",JI"
Tiger Shrimp
Shrimp (Fr. crevet/e) are fou nd world\\;de and are widely popular. Gulf tbito, pinks, browns and black tigers are just a few of the dozens of shrimp I1ril'ties used in food service operations. Al1hough fresh, head-on shrimp • arailable, the most common form is raw, head-off (also called ~ headless) shrimp with the shell on. A'iost shrimp are deheaded n1frozen at sea to preserve freshness. Shrimp are available in many bros: raw, peeled and deveined; cooked, peeled and deveined; inli\iduaUy quick frozen; as well as in a variety of processed, breaded (fC1nned products. Shrimp are graded by size, which can range from fl) per pound (Iiti) to 8 per pollnd (extf'd-co)ossal), and are sold in crunts per pound, For example, shrimp marketed as "21-26 count " means Ial thcre is an avemge of 21 to 26 shrimp per pound; shrimp marketed as "U10' means that there are fewer than 10 shrimp per pound. Prawn is often used interchangeably with the word shrimp in EngJish~king countries. Although it is perhaps more accurate to refer 10 freshwatrspecies as prawns and saltwater species as shrimp, in commercial practice, ]tI\\1\ refers to any large shrimp. Equally <:anfusing, scampi is the Italian name bthe Dublin Bay prawn (which is actually a species of miniarure lobster), but • tins country scampI refers to shnmp sauteed in garliC bUller.
NlffRmON
Jrr-,
Sbrimp
Greell lleadiess Shrimp
\
hh and shellfish are low in calories, fat :md sodium, and are high in vitamins ! Band 0 and protein. Fish and shellfish are also high in minerals, especially abum (panicularly in canned fish with edible bones), phosphorus, potaSSium Iki iron (especially mollusks). Fish are high in a group of polyunsaturated IlIpcids called omega-3, which may help combat high blood cholesterol levmand aid in preventing some hean disease. Shellfish are not as high in cho-
Pr(lU'1l
470
-,
TABLE
CHAPTER 19
19,2 .n-. NUTRITIONAL VALUES OF FISH AND SHELlfiSH Protein
Per 1 oz. (28 g) Raw
Kcal
(8)
Abalone Clam, mixed species Cod, A!l:lntic Crab, Alaska ki ng Flalllsh lobster Oyster. eastem Salmon Sea bass Shrimp. mixed species SUrimi lUna, Yellowfin Whitefish
30
4,8 3.6 5.0 5.2 5.3 5.3 2.0 5.6 5.2 5,7
21
23 24 26 26 20 40 27
30 28 31 J8
4J 6.6
5.4
TOIal Fat (g)
Saturated Fat
0.2 0,3 0.2 0.2 0.3
<0.1 <0.1 <0. 1
0.3
0.7 18 0.6 0.5 0.3 0.3 L7
(8)
mq
0.1 mq 0.2 0.3 01 0.1
mq 0, 1 0,3
,Cholesterol (mg)
50IUa
24 10 12 12 14
"
"
27
mq
16 16 12
~ II)
4J 9 IJ 17
Im!:1
16
II
B
19
"
,1 !O 14
The O:lrllltW T Netzer Eflc)'c/O{X'tlia of Food 1'a11it'S 1992
lnq = mt.>a.surable quanllt)'. but data is unal';Jilabie
leSlerol as was once IholighL CmSlaceans are higher in cholesterollhan an lusks, but both have considerably lowe r levels than red meat or eggs. The cooking mel hods used for fish and shellfish also contribute to tbef healthfulness. The mOSt conunonly used cooking methods----broiling, gnli::J poaching and steaming-add little or no fa t.
INSPECTION AND GRADING OF FISH AND SHELLFISH .n-, Inspection
FtGURE 19.4
pun Mark and Slalemellls
Unlike mandatory meat and poultry inspections, fi sh and shellfish insperu:a are voluntary. They are performed in a fee-fa r-service program super...isedlr the United States Depanment of Commerce (USDC). Type 1 inspection services cover plant , product and processing tl1t'dKli from the raw material to the fin:l l prod11C1 Th ~ MP:lckf·d lInder Ft'dmUtspection" (PUFf) mark or stateme nt shown in Figure 19.4 can be used onptdua labels processed under Type 1 inspection services. It signifies tbll II produa is safe and wholesome, properly labeled, has reasonably goo:! t1m and odor, an~ was produced under inspection in an official establishme!ll. Type 2 inspection services are usually performed in a warehouse, prOOIing plant or cold stomge facility on specific produa loIS. See Figure 19.5. All inspection detennines whether the product complies with purchase agreem:s criteria (usually defined in a spec sheet) such as condition, weight, ~ and packaging integrity. Type 3 inspection services are for sanitation only. Fishing vessels or p/arI lhat meet the requirements are recognized as official establishments and are it eluded in the USDC Approved List of Fisb Establishmellts alld Prodllcts. Theil
FISH AND SlIELlFISII \0 governmental and institlllional purchaSing agents as well as to ft(;Jil Jnd restaurant buyers.
l,Jlaillble
Grading ,.~-
471
/,--A~
~
OFFICIALLY SAMPLED )
732
6,h processed under Type I inspection services are eligible for grading.
:xh trpe of fish has its own grading criteria, but because of the great variety fish and shellfish, the USDC has been :tole (0 set grading trileri:'! for only
JAN XX 1994
I't most common Iypes.
lh.' grades aSSigned 10 fish are A, B or C. Grade A products are lOp qual, Jnd must have good flavor and odor and be practically free of physical "
~hes
\.. U.S. DEPARTMENT....I OF COMMERCE
or defects. "111e great matoriry of fresh and frozen fish and shellfish
. "(t,umed in restaurants is Grade A. See Figure 19.6. Grade B indic:nes good rt}; Grade C indicates fairly good quality. Grade Band C products are 'U\I often canned or processed.
'V' I'rot/lIe/lnspectiQII Stamps
FIGURE
19.5
FIGURE
19.6 GmdeA Stomp
PURCHASING AND STORING FISH AND SHELLFISH
Determining Fresbness fish and shellfish are highly perishable, :m inspeclion stamp does nm XCl',\...arily ensure top Quality. A few hours at the wrong tcmper:nure or a ,tAI~e of days in the refrigerator can [urn high-quality fish or shellfish imo ;:3rhJgc. It is impoltam that you be able to determine for yourself the fresbw.s and quality of the fish and shellfish you purchase or use. Freshness ,1oJ1d be cht'Cked before purchasing and again just before cooking. frc:.hne.s.s can be determined by: :'«;ttL'IC
/. SnU'#-lnis is by far the easiest way to determine freshness. Fresh fish lhould hal'e a slight sea smell or no odor at all. Any off-odors or ammonia ooo~ are a sure sign of aged or improperly handled fish. 1 Elr.r-TIlc eyes should be clear and full Sunken eyes mean that the fish is dr,ing out and is probably not fresh. J Gifl5-The gills should be inlact and bright red. Brown gills :Ire a sign of .p,c i TI'XtIl1'i'---Gencrally. the flesh of fresh fish should be fiml. roo'lush}' flesh or n~sh th:1I does not spring back when pressed with a finger is a sign of poor qu~lity or age. ~ FillS ami scales-Fins and scales should be moist and full withOut exces>ill' dl)ing on the outer edges. Dry fins or scales are a sign of age; daml~ fins or scales may be a sign of mishandling. , :lWC'tlfflIlCe--fish cuts should be moiti.t and glistening, witholil bruises or dark spots. Edges should not be brown or dry. '. ,I/r.i/'emew-Shellfish should be purchased live and should show movement. Lobsters and other crustaceans should be active. Cbms, mussels and o)-.ters that are partially opened should snap shut when tliPped with a finger. (Exceptions are geoduck , r.:lZor and ste::lnler clams whose siphons protrude, pre\'enting the shell from closing completely.) Ones that do nO{ close an'dead and should not be used. Avoid mollusks with broken shells or 1It':!1)" shells that might be filled with mud or s:md.
472 '""'"
CHAPl'I!R 19
Purchasing Fish and Shellfish Fish arc available from wholesalers in a variety of market forms:
+ Whole or round-as caught, intact. + Drawn-viscera (internal o rgans) is removed; most whole fish arc purchased this way. + Dressed-viscera, gills, fins and scales are removed. + Pan·dressed-viscera and gills arc removed; fish is scaled and fins andta
are trimmed. The head is usually removed, although small fish, such as trout, may be pan-dressed with the head still anached. Pan-dressed fish It then
pan~fried.
• Butterflied-a pan-
lIIhole or Round
Buttcrflicd filletS
tillets
FIGURE
19.7 MlIrket Forms
FISH AND SHElLFiSH f"'\!l.
• fillet-the side of a fish removed imact, boneless or semi-boneless, with or II'hhout skin. • Sieak--
lOOn. Although fish fabrication is a relatively simple chore requiring little spe-
tll.!ized equipment, before you decide to cut your own fish, you should con-
m
1 The food service operation's ability to utilize the bones and trim Ihal CUIting whole fish produces l. The employees' ability to fabricate fillets, steaks or portions as needed ! The storage facilities 4. The product's intended use MOSI shellfish can be purchased live in the shell, shucked (the meat realI'eeI from the shell) or processed. BoI:h live and shucked shellfish are usu..,. purchased by counts (thm is, the number per volume). For example, standard live Eastern oysters are packed 200--250 (the count) per bushel (the unit rJ l'OIumc); standard Eastern oyster meats are packed 350 per gallon. CrusIICeallS are sometimes packed by size based on the number of pieces per fW/ld: for ex:mlple, crab legs or shrimp are often sold in counlS per pound. (l they are sold either by grades based on size (whole crabs) or by weight
lkDsters).
SIoring Fish and Shellfish The most imponant concern when storing fis h and shellfish is temperature. All
frclJ fish should be stored at temperatures between 30°F and }f°F (_1 °C to IOC). fISh stored in a refrigerator at 40°F (4°C) will have approximately half Iht shelf life of fish stored at 32°F (DOC). ~105t fish are shipped on ice and should be stored on ice in the refrigeran as soon as possible after receipt. Whole fish should be layered directly in aushed or shaved icc in a perforated pan so Ihat the melted ice water drains Ill)' If crushed or shaved ice is not available, cubed ice may be used protiled it is put in plastic bags :md gemly placed on top of the fish to prevem buJsing and denting. Fabricated and pollioned fish may be wrapped in moisIlre-proof packaging before icing to prevent the ice and water from damaging ~ e.~posed flesh. Fish stored on ice should be drained and re-iced daily. Fresh scallops, fish fillets that are purchased in plastic trays, and oyster and dmt mealS should be set on or packed in ice. Do not leI the scallops, fillets II IJIf'3IS come in direct contact with the ice. Cams, mussels and oysters should be stored at 40°F (4°C), al high humidi)',md left in the boxes or net bags in which they were shipped. Under ideal mxlitions, shellfish can be kept alive fO(, up \0 One week. Never Store live mdlfish in plastic bags and do not ice them. ~ a saltwater tank is not availllble, live lobsters, crabs and other crustaceans mild be kept in boxes with seaweed or damp newspaper to keep them m. Most crustaceans circulate salt water over their gills; icing them or plac1\1 them in fresh water will kill them. Lobsters and crabs will live for several dm under ideal conditions.
473
== ~ == How FRESH IS FROZEN FISH?
Fresh-the item is been frozen.
not
and has [w:er
Chilled- now used by some in the industry to replace the more ambiguous "fresh"; indicates that the item was refriger· ated, that is, held at 30°F to 34°F (-lOC to lOC). Rash-frozen-dte item was quickly frozen on-board ship or at a processing plant within hoUl~ of being caught. Fresh-frozen-the item was quickfrozen while still fresh but not as qUickly as flash -frozen. Frozen-dte item was subjected to temperatures of O°F (-lWC) or 1000~r to prese["\"e its inherent quality. Glazed-a frozen product dipped in water; the ice fonns a glaze that protects the item from freezer bum. FanC)'--code word for "pte\iously frozen."
474 ,"""
CJIAP71!fI/9 Like most frozen foods, frozen fish should be kept a1 temperatures d (- 18°C) or colder. Colder lempe~lIures greatly increase shelf life. Frozenfu.! should be thawed in the refrigerator; once thawed, they should be lrealallL fresh fish.
FABRlCfIJNG PROCEDURES .n-, As discussed, fish and shellfish can be purchased in many forms. Here v demonstrate several procedures for cutting, cleaning and otherwise fabricatit: or preparing fish and shellfish for cooking and serving.
PROCWURE FOR ScALING FISH
This procedure is used to remove the sca les from fish that will be cookt'd ~. the skin on. place the fish on a work surface u
a large sink. Grip the fish by the tad and, working from the tail (owardtlt head, SCf"Jpe (he scales off with afi.-l'. scaler or the back of a knife. Be c:lreful nO(
10
damage the flesh h)
pushing too hard. Tum the fish ~t'I' lind remove the scales from the 00.:r side. Rinse the fish under cold Wall'l
PROCEDURE FOR PA..'i·D RF.SSING FLATFISII
I . Place the scaled fish on a cutting bO:lrd and remove the head by
making a V-shaped cuI around il with a chefs knife. Pull the head away and remove the \'iscera.
2. Rinse the fish under cold water, removing all traces of blood and viscera from the cavity.
3. Using a pair of kitchen shea!\ trim off the t:liI and all of !he lint
Frsll AND SJIEilFISII
c"S!'I.
475
PRocEDURE fOR FILLETING ROUND FISH bod fi~h produce (wo fillets, one from either side.
/. L'sing:1 chefs knife, cut down to
the backbone just behind the gills. Do nOl remove the head.
J Trim the rib bones from the fillet
2. Turn the knife toward the tail; using smooth strokes, cut from he:ld to tail, par:tllelto the backbone. The knife should bump :lgainstthe backbone so that no flesh is w:lsted; you will feel the knife cUlling through the small pin bones. Cut the fillet completel}' free from the bones. Repeat on the other side.
4. The finished fillet.
\Iith a flexible boning knife.
PRocmURE FOR FllJ.E1lN·G FLATFISH
fLllfish produce four fillets: twO large bilateral fillets from the top and two )(n:lller bilateral fillets from the boltom. If the fish fillets are going to be cooked with the skin on, the fish should be scaled before cooking (it is easier SCllc the fish before it is filleted). If the skin is going to be removed before .ooking, it is nOi necessmy to scale the fish.
/. \\'Ilh thc d:lrk side of thc..{tsh facing up, cut :llong the backbone from head to tail with the tip of ;1 flexible honing knife.
2. Turn the knife and, using smooth
strokes, cut between the flesh and the rib bones, keeping the flexible blade against the bone. Cut the fillet completely free from the fish. Remove the second fillet, following the same procedure.
3. Turn the fish over and relllOI'e the
fillets from the bottom half of the fish. following the same procedure.
476
~,
ClfAPl1!R 19
Dover sole is unique in that ilS skin can be pulled from the whole fish ~idll simple procedure. The flesh of other small flatfish such as flounder, petnk sole and other rypes of domeStic sole is more delicate; pulling the skin from the whole fish could damage the flesh. TIlese fish should be skirud after they are filleted.
3'"
Make a shallow cut in the flesh perpendicular to the length of the fish, iust in front of the tail and with the knife angled toward the head ri the fish. Using a clean towel, grip til skin and pull it toward the he'Jd rJ the fish. The skin should come off cleanly, in one piece, leaving the flesh intact.
PROCEDURE FOR SKlNNL" G FISH FU.lJ.:.i S
Here we use a salmon fillet to demonstrate the procedure for skinning fish i leIS. Use the same procedure 10 skin all types of fish fillels.
Place the fillel on a cutting board with the skin side down. Staning al the tail, use a meat slicer or a chefs knife to cut between the flesh and skin. Angle the knife down toward the skin, grip the skin tightly with one hand and use a sawing motion to cut the skin cleanly away from the flesh.
-
PROCEDURE FOR PULLlNG PIN BoNES FROM SAl.MON FIlli.iS
Round fish fillets contain a row of intramuscular bones mnning the lengthd the filleL Known as pin bones, they are usua lly CU I out with a knife (0]10"
FISlI AND SflELLf7SH ~ boneless 2fJS
fillets. In the case of salmon. they can be removed with salmon or small needle-nose pliers.
Place the fillet (either skinless or not) on Ihe cuning in,lIli skin side down, SWl'ling al !he front or head end tllhe fillet, use your fingertips 10 locme the bones and !t\t'the pliers 10 pull them out one by one.
PmooR£ FOR ClfITING TRANCm~
\ ttanche is a slice cut from fillets of large flat or round fish. Usually cut on JllIIgie, tranches look large and increase plate coverage.
place the fillet on the cuning board, skin side down. Using a slicer or chef's knife , cut slices of the desired weight. The tranche can be cut to the desired size by adjusting the angle of the knife. The greater the angle, the grcater the surface area of the tranchc.
PRocEDURE FOR ClJITlNG STEAKS FROM SALMON
IIll SI,IlIL
Using a chefs knife, cut through the fish, slicing steaks of the desired thickness. TIle steaks will comain some bones thai are not necess:lrily removed,
~
477
478 ......
CifA?l1iR 19
PROCEDURE FOR PEELmG AND DEVEINING SHRIMP Peeling and deveining shrimp is a simple procedure done in most
COIl1J1'leKlo
kitchens. The tail portion of the shell is often left on the peeled shrimp 10 il an allraaive appearance or make it easier 10 eat. This procedure can be IJ.'('; on both cooked and uncooked shrimp.
1. Grip the shrimp's tail between your thumb and forefinger. Use your other thumb and forefinger
to grip the legs and the edge of the shell.
3.
Place the shrimp on a cuuing
board and use a paring knife 10 make a sha llow CUI dow n the
2. Pull the legs and shell away fI'M the flesh, leaving the tail and fif'I joint of the shell in place if desired.
4. Pull oul the vein while rinsingtk shrimp under cold water.
b:tck of the shrimp, exposing the digestive tmel or
~vein. "
PROCEDURE FOR BlTITERH.YlNG SHRIMP Butterflying raw shrimp improves their appearance and increases their swb.. area for even cooking. To blillerfly shrimp, first peel them using the pfClC'eW.~ OUilined earlier. lllen: Instead of making a shallow milO expose Ihe vein, make a deeper ru Ihal nearly slices the shrimp into Il bilateral halves. Pull out the \'ein while rinsing the shrimp under cdd water.
l
FISIIANDSJIELLFISII
("'0.
479
1lx:muR~ FOR PREPARING LIVE LoBSTERS FOR BROILL"G
"tJoIe lobster can IX! cooked by plunging it into boiling water or CQun bouilIf the lobster is to IX! broiled. it must be split lengthwise before cooking.
I. Place the live lobster on ils back
on a cuuing board and pierce its head with the poim of a chers kn~c. TIlen. in ant! smooth stroke, bring the knife down and cut through the body and tail withoul splilling it completely in half.
1mDL'RE FOR
2. Use your hands 10 crack the lobster's back SO Ihal it lies nat. Crack Ihe claws with the back of a chers knife.
3. CUI through the lail and curl each half of the lail to the side. Hemove and discard Ihe stomach. The lomalley (Ihe olive-green liver) and, if presem, Ihe coral (the roe) e m IX! removed and saved for a sallce or other preparation.
PREPARING LIVE LoBSTERS FOR SAilrElNG
\ ,hole lobster may also be CUI into sm.. lIer pieces for sauteing or other ;rt'pJrnlions.
L l5ing the poim of a chefs knife, pierce the lobster'S head.
t. ~plillhe
2, Cut off Ihe claws and arms.
3. CUI the tail into cross sections.
head and thorax in h:llf.
"l"ht' tomalley and coral (if presem)
can be removed and saved for funher use. TIle head and legs _ may be added 10 the recilX! for I\;lI"Or, but there is very little meal in them and they are typically discarded.
5. Crack the claws with a firm blow, llsing the back of a chef's knife.
480
~
CIWTf1o:R
19 PROCEDURE FOR REMOVING COOKED LOBSmR
Mm FROM TIlE Slim
Many recipes call for cooked lobster meat. Cook the lobster by plunging iI iii a boiling coun bouillon and simme ring for 6-8 minutes per pound. Renxr. the lobster and allow it to cool umil it can be easily handled. Then:
I . Pull the claws and large legs away from the body. Break the claw away from the leg. Split the legs with a chers knife and remove the melli, using your fi ngers or a pick.
3. Pull the lobster's t:lil :lW:l}' from its body :lnd use kitchen shears to trim away the soft membrane on the underside of the 1:1il.
2. Carefully crack the claw with :t mallet or the back d J chefs knife without damaging the meat. Pull out the claw meat in one piece.
4. Pull the me:lt out of the shell in one piece.
PROCEDURE FOR OPENING ClAMS Opening raw clams efficiently requires practice. like all mollusks, daD should- be cleaned under cold mnning water with a bmsh 10 remove alllllU.i. silt and sand that may be slUck to their shells. A knife may be more casU)" Do sened into a clam if the clam is washed :lOd allowed to relax in the refrip tor for at least one hour before it is opened.
FISH AND SHELLFISH ~
L Ilold the clam firmly in a folded towel in the palm of )'OUr rond; the n(){ch in the edge of the shell should he toward your thumb. \Vith the fingers of the same hand. squccze and pull the blade of the clam knife ill'tween the clamshells. Do nO! push on lhe knife Jundle with your other hand; you will nOI be able 10 l'Ontrol the knife if it slips and you can un yourself.
481
2. Pull the knife between the shells until it cuts the
muscle. Twisl the knife to pry the shells apan. Slide the knife tip along the top shell and cut through the muscle. Twist the top shell, breaking it free at the hinge; discard it.
3. Use the knife tip to release the clam from the bottom shell.
1. CIeJn the oyster by brushing it urxler running water.
2. Hold the cle:med oyster firml y in
your hand. losen the tip of an oyster knife in the hinge and use :1 twisting motion to pop Ihe hinge apan. Do nO{ use too much forward pressure on the knife; it can slip and you could Slab yourself.
t l"se the knife lip to release the oyster from the bottom sheIL
3. Slide the knife along the top of Ihe shell to release the oyster from the sheIL Discard the top shell.
482
.
CJWl1:'R 19
PROCEDURE FOR C!.PANING AND DEBIlARDING MUSSELS
Mussels are not normally eaten raw. Before cooking, a clump of dark thrt:tB called the beard must be removed. Because this could kill the mussel. dea. ing and debearding must be done as close to cooking time as possible.
1. Clean the Illllssel with a bmsh
under cold mnning water to remove sand and grit.
2. Pull the beHrd away from the mussel with your fingers ora small pair of pliers.
APPIYING VARIOUS COOKING METHODS Fish and shellfish can be prepared by the dry-heat cooking methods of b'r ing and grilling, roasting (baking), sauteing, p:lIl-frying and deep-fl)ing. well as the moist-heat cooking methods of steaming. poaching and sim~ Other than deep-frying, which is discussed in Chapter 21 , these cookingl1k.1l ods are discussed here.
Determining Doneness Unlike most meats and poultry. nea rly all fish and shellfish are inherentl)"1l'IIder and should be cooked juSt until done. Indeed, overcooking is the IW-' common mistake made when prep:lring fish and shellfish. The Canadian DIpartment of Fisheries recommends th:u all fish be cooked 10 minutes fore\1,'[\ inch (25 centimeters) of thickness, regardless of cooking method. Alllioogn this may be a good general polky, variables such as the type and the (Ofill fish and the exact cooking method used suggest that one or more of the lowing methods of determining doneness are more appropriate for prdl."!osional food service opel"Jtions:
sht..
1. Translucent jlesh becomes OfXHIIle-TIle raw flesh of most fish and appears somewhat tr:msluccnl. As the prO{ems CO:lgu13te during the flesh becomes opaque. 2. Flesh becomes firm-The flesh of most fish :tnd shellfish fimlS as it cootDoneness em be tested by judging the resist:tnce of the flesh when pres.st'( with a fi nger. Raw or undercooked fish or shellfish will be mushy and As it cooks, the flesh offers more resistance and springs back quick~·. 3. Flesh separates/rolli/he holies easf~)L-The flesh of raw fish remains finn!)' tached to the bones. As the fish cooks, the flesh and bones separate ea.Ii/; 4. Flesh"Oegflls /ojlaJ..'(;'-Fish flesh consists of shon muscle fibers sep3r:lted~ thin connective tissue. As the fish cooks, the connective tissue breaks dol and the groups of muscle fibe rs begin 10 flak e, thai is, sepal"Jle from ocr
FiSH AND SHFlJ.f1SI1
mother. Fish is done when the flesh begins to flake. If the flesh flakes eas-
ily, the fish will be ovcrdone and dry. Remember, fish and shellfish are subject to carryover cooking. Because they quickly and at low temperatures, it is better to undercook fish and shelland allow carryover cooking or residual heat to finish the cooking process.
rv-mw Cooking Methods cooking methods are those that do not require additional moisture at during the cooking process. TIle dry-heat cooking methods used with and shellfish are broiling and grilling, roasting (usually referred to as bakused with fish and shellfish), sauteing, pan-frying and deep-frying.
and Grilling brushing with oil or buner, fish can be grilled directly on the grate or a heated plattcr under the broiler. Broiled or grilled fish should have .iIIltl"h3mdsurface and a slighlly smoky flavor as a result of the intense heat of the broiler or grill. TIle interior should be moist and juicy. or grilled shellfish me:11 should be moist and tender with only slight from the grill or broiler. IlJectillg Fish alld Shellfish 10 Broil or Crill ~y all types of fish and shellfish can be successfully broiled or grilled . . trout, swordfish and other oily fish are especially well suited to grilling, lure lean fish such as bass and snapper. Fillets of lean flatfish with delicate tex_ such as flounder and sole, are better broiled. They should be placed on Ilttheated broiling (sizzler) planer before being placed under the broiler. ()fSle!S and clams are often broiled on the half shell with flavored butters, Imd crumbs or other garnishes and selVed sizzling hot. Squid can be SlUffed, I(Ured with a toothpick and broiled or grilled. Brushed with butter, split 101)las, king crabs and snow crabs are often broiled or grilled. Whole lobsters an be split and broiled or grilled, or their (;Iils can be removed, split and cooked separately. L1rge cmb legs can also be split and broiled Of grilled. 9uimp and scallops :Ire often broiled in flavored butters or grilled on skewers b easy handling.
Seasoning Fish and Shellfish to be Broiled or Grilled All fish should be bmshed lightly with butter or oil before being placed on grill or under the broiler. The butter or oil prevents sticking and helps Doer fish retain moisture. For mOSt fish , a simple seasoning of salt and pepper suffices. But most fish do respond well to marinades, especially those DIe with white wine and lemon juice. Because most fish are delicately flamrl. they should be lll:lTinated for only a brief time. (Even marinated fish IIn1Id be brushed with buner or oil before cooking.) Herbs should be IItli&:d because they will burn from the intense heat of (he broiler or grill. 03ms, oysters and other shellfish that are stuffed or cooked with butters, teg(Ubles. bacon or other accompaniments or garnishes gain flavor from Ibese ingredients. Be careful, however, not to overpower the delicate flavors dthe shellfish by adding tOO many strong flavorings.
~
Mcompallimenls to B;;iled lind Grilled Fish lind Shellfish Lemon wedges are the traditional accompaniment to broiled or grilled fish mdshellfish. (lut they can be served with sauces made separately. Butter sauces
~
483
484 """ CIW'l1!R 19 such as a beurre blanc are popular, as their richness complements the lean fish Vegetable (Qulis are a good choice for a healthier, lower-fat accompanimert Additional sauce suggestions are found in Table 10.5. If the item is cookedQl a broiler planer with a seasoned buner, it is often served with that buner.
Almost any side dish goes well with broiled or grilled fish or shellfish. Fried or boiled potatoes, pasta and rice are all good choices. Grilled vegetables art a natural choice.
PROCEDURE FOR BROILING OR GRILLING FISH AND SHELLFISH All fish is Jdicatt: and musl be carefully handled to achieve an attractive fit..
ished product. When broiling whole fish or fillets with their skin still on, smr the skin by making several diagonal slashes approximately 1/4 inch (6 iiilimelers) deep :11 c\'cn intervals. This prevents the fish from curling ~
cooking, promotes even cooking and creates a more atlractive nnished proo. UCL Be especially careful not to overcook the item. It should be served as Id as possible as soon as it is removed from the broiler or grill. 1. Heat the broiler or grill. 2. Use a wire brush to remove any charred or burnt particles that may be
J.
4.
5.
6.
stuck to the broiler or grill grate. The grate G in be wiped with a lightly oiled towel to remove any remaining particles and help season it. Prepare the item to be broiled or grilled. For example, cut the fish irno steaks or (ranches of even thickness; split the lobster; peel and/or skewer the shrimp. Season or marinate the item as desired. Bmsh the item wilh oit or butler. Place the item presentation side down on a grill. If using a broiler, p13cr the item directly on the grate or on a preheated broiler platter. Tender full are usually broiled presentation side up on a broiler platter. If practical, turn the item to produce the attractive crosshatch marks ass0ciated with grilling that are discussed in Chapter 9, Principles of Cooking Items less than 1/2 inch (12 millimeters) thick cooked on a preheated broiler platter do not have to be turned over. Cook Ihe item 10 the desired doneness and serve immediately.
============ ~ ===========
RECIPE 19. 1
BROILED B lACK SEA B ASS WITH H ERB B U1TER AND SAUTEED LEEKS Yield: 1 serving
-
Black sea bass nllet, skin on, approx. 8 oz. (225 g) Salt and pepper Whole butter, melted Leek, julienne Lemon juice Herb butter (pg. 211)
I
I
n
n
as needed I 2 lSI'. 2 slices
as needed I 10 ml 2 slices
1. Score the skin with three diagonal ClllS ,Ipproximately 1/4 inch (6 millinf.
tets) deep. 2. Season the fillet with salt and pepper and brush with melled buner.
f7S11 AII'D SIIEUFISII
c"'\!I
1 Place the fillet on a preheated broiler planer, skin side up, and place under !be broiler. I Bbnch the julienned leeks in boiling water until nearly tender. i Drain the leeks and saute them in 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) of whole !liner until tender. Add the lemon juice; season with &,It and pepper. t Remol'e the fish from the broiler when done. Top with the herb butter and ;m'e on a bed of &1uteed leeks. 0JIIUIe "llues po.'T serving Calories 260, Total ral IS g, S3lUr.lled fat 8 g, Choleslerol &l mg. "'1lQ mg. Toul carboh)·dr::I.ICS 11 g. Proleln 21 g, Vllamln A I5%. Vilamin C 15%
L ~ng Ihe fish skin.
2. Placing the fish on a broiler planer, under the broiler.
BaRillg ~ lemts Ixlkil/g
and roosting are used interchangeabl}' when applied to fish One disadvantage of baking fish is that the short baking time does ~ allow the surface of the fish to caramelize. To help correct this problem, fish Qfl be browned in a salLIe pan with a small amount of oil 10 achieve the added , lor and appe:lr:mce of a browned surface, and then finished in an oven. :ld~llfish.
Selecting Fisb al1d Sbellfisb to &Ike Fauy fish produce the best baked fish. Fish fillets and steaks are the best marto b:lke,:ls they cook quickly and evenly and are eaSily portioned. AIboogh Je:tn fish c:ln be b:lked, il tends 10 become dry, and musl be b
~rtfonns
Seasoning Fisb find Shellfish 10 be Baked The most popul:lr seasonings for baked fish are lemon, bUller, salt :md pep!X1, fISh on also be marinated before baking for added flavor. Bul baked fish
w.ll) depend on the :Iccompanying &1UCe for much of their flavor. Shellfish are oHen stuffed or mixed with other ingredients before baking. t.. mmple, r:I.\V oysters on the half shell can be lOpped with spinach , wakfO\':'\.\ and Pemod (oysters Rockefeller) and baked. Shrimp are often bullerIk-d, Muffed and b:'lked; lobsters are split, SlUffed and baked. Many food ser'IX operJlions remove cl:ul1s from Iheir shells; mix them with bread crumbs, x;.I.'iOIling.'i or other ingredients; refill the shells and bake the mi."{ture.
Accompmlimellts 10 &Iked Pisb and Sbellfisb I!.1kcd fish is oflen served wilh
;1
flavorful &1UCe sllch as a creole sauce (pg.
_l'i) or 3 bcuTre bl:tnc (pg. ilo). Additional sallce suggestions are found in Tlh[t 105. Almost any type of rice, pasta or lX>tato is a good accompaniment, ,1.\ :my l':lrielY of s:lutccd vegewble,
3. Scrving the fish on a bed of s:wteed leeks.
485
486
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CHAlYf'ER 19
PROCEDURE FOR BAKING FISH AND SHELLFISH
1. Ponion the fish or shellfish and arrange on a well~oiled or bullered pan. presentation side up. 2. Season as desired and brush the surface of the fish or shellfish generoosl)· with melted butter; add garnishes or navorings as desired or directed in Ih: recipe. 3. Place the pan in a preheated oven at approximately 400°F (200°C). 4. Baste periodically during the cook ing process (more often if the fish is Jean). Remove from the oven when the fish is slightly underdone. ====== ,~ ======
RECIPE 19.2
BAKED RED SNAPPER WITH STAR FRUIT CHUTNEY Yield: 4 servings Red snapper fillets, 8 oz. (250 g) each Salt and white pepper Whole butter, melted Mint leaves, chopped Garlic, minced Tomato concassee White wine Lemon juice Star Fruit Chutney (Recipe 10.38)
4
4
n
n
2 oz. llbsp. I lSp. 4 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. 12 oz.
60g 15 ml 5 ml 120 g
60 ml 60011 350 g
1. Place the snapper on a bUllered baking pan. Season the fillets wilh salim:! white pepper; brush with butter. 2. Combine the mint, garlic and tomatoes, and spoon on top of each porOO! of the fish. 3. Add the white wine and lemon juice to the pan . 4. Bake at 400°F (200°C), basting once halfway through the cooking pro:tS.\. until done, approximately 15 minutes. 5. Serve each portion on a bed of 3 ounces (90 gr.lms) of Star Fruit Chutne) Approximate values per serving: Calories 600. Total fat 16 g. Saturated fat 8 g, Cholesterol h01lllSodium 850 mg, To tal carbohydratC!l 55 g. Protein 60 g, Vitamin A 25%, Vitamin C 35%
I. Brushing the fillets with butter.
2. Topping each portion with mint and tomato concassL"e.
3. The finished fish.
FISH AND SHELlFISII
is a very popular cooking method for fish and shellfish. It lightly the food's surface, giving it additional flavor. Typically, other insuch as garlic, onions, vegetables, wine and lemon juice are added fond to make a s.'mce.
""~[;2es
Selecting Fish and She/ljisb 10 Saute 800l fatty and lean fish may be sauteed. Flatfish are sometimes dressed and
whole, as are small round fish such as trout. Larger fish such as can be cut into steaks or filleted and cut into tranches. The portions be relatively uniform in size and thickness and fairly thin to promOle cooking. Although clams, mussels and oysters are not often sauteed, scalcrust3ceans are popular saute items.
Seasoning Fish and Shelljish to be Saufeed Man)' types of fish-especia lly sole, flounde r and other delicate, lean fish -"rlre often dredged in plain or seasoned flour before sauteing. Seabuner is used to saute some items, such as scampi-style shrimp. These derive their flavor from the butter; additional seasonings should nOt be
Cooking Temperatures The saute pan and cooking fat must be not before the fish or shellfish are Do not add tOO much fish or shellfish to the pan at one time, or the and fat will cool, letting the foods simmer in their own juices. Thin slices small pieces of fish and shellfish require a short cooking time, so use high ",,""lUre, in order to caramelize their surfaces without overcooking. Large, pieres of fish or shellfish being cooked in the shell may require slightly cooking temperatures to ensure that they are cooked without overtheir surfaces.
kcom/XIllimellls 10 Semteed Fish and Sbelljisb Sauteed fish and shellfish are nearly always served with a sauce made di, in the saute pan. TIlis sa uce may be as simple as browned butler noiselle) or a complicated sauce flavored with the fond. In some seasoned butter is used to saute the fish or shellfish and the butter is 11m ~,,,d with the main item. See Table 10.5 for additional sauce suggesnavored rice and pasta are good choices to sen'e with sauteed fish • sltelffish.
filxElC'" FOR SAlfI'EING FlslI M'D SHELLFISH
1 CUt or panion the fish or shellfish. 1 Season lhe item and dredge in seasoned flou r if desired. Hen a suitable saute pan over moderate heat; add enough oil or daMed buner to cover the bottom lO a depth of about 1/8 inch (3 millimeters). t Add the fish or shellfish to the pan (fish should be placed presentation side oown); cook until done, turning once halfway through the cooking process. Add other foods 3:JoCalled for in the recipe . .l Remove the fish or shellfish. If a sauce is to be made in the saute pan, follow the procedu res discussed in Chapter 17, Poultry.
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ClW'TF.H 19
RECI PE 19.3
SAUTEED llAuBur WIlli THREE-COLOR PEPPERS AND SPANISH
Ol11'El
Yield: 4 servings Halibut fillets , 6 oz. (170 g) each Salt and pepper Olive oil Onion, sliced Garlic, minced Green bell pepper, julienne Red bell pepper, julienne Yellow bell pepper, julienne Tomato concassee Spanish olives, pined and quanered Fresh thyme, chopped Lemon juice Fish stock
4
4 IT
2 oz.
60 ml
3 oz.
90S
2 tsp.
10mi
3 oz. 3 oz. 3 oz. 8 oz.
90g 90g 90g
2 oz. 2 tsp. 2 oz. 2 oz.
60g 10 ml 60ml 60 ml
250 g
1. Season the fill ets with salt and pepper.
2. He'JI a saute pan and add the olive oil.
3. S.1ule the halibut, turning once. Remove and reserve in a wann place. 4. Add the onions and garlic (0 the samc pan and S.1Ute for approxinu\d'i minute. Add the peppers and Sallie for 1-2 minutes more. 5. Add the tomato concassee, olives and thyme; saute briefly. ti Add (he lemon juice and degbzc the pan. Add the fish stock. simll1el 2 minutes to blc nd the flavors and adjust the seasonings. 7. Rerum the fish to the pan to rchcat. Serve each fish fillet on a bed ci It) etables with s.1uce and an appro priate garnish. Approximate values per 5(:,."iog: Calories 420, Total f:at 21 g, Salllratw fat 3 g, Cholcstnol ~I Sodium 870 mg, Total carbo hyd ..~te:l to g, l'l"()ldn 47 g. Vitam io A IS%, Vitamio C 1I(I\b
1, Sautc ing the halibut fillets.
2. SautCing the onions, g:lrlic :md peppers.
3. Adding the fish stock.
4. RellLming the fish to the p3n to rcheat.
fJan.Pryil1g Pan-frying is very similar to sauteing, but il uses more fat to cook Ihe m~in nt'll PlIn·fried fish is a1wllYs collted wilh flour, baiter or breading to help seal t~
nSII AND SHEllFISH
and ple\"ent the flesh from coming in direct contact with the cooking fat. y prepared pan-fried fish and shellfish should be moist and tender with a IIIpsurface.lfbanered or breaded, the coating should be intact with no breaks.
StII!clillg Fish alld Shellfish /0 Pall-Pry Ikllh fatty and lean fish may be pan-fried. Trout and (){her small fish are for pan-frying, as are ponioned fillets of lean fish such as halibut. Panird fish and shellfish should be uniform in size and relati\'ely thin so that ~ cook quickly and evenly. Stosollillg Fish and Sbelljish 10 be Pall-Fried Although fish and shellfish can be marinated or seasoned directly, il is more canmon IOseason the flour, bailer or breading that will coat them. Bauers, for extDple, can contain cheese, and breadings can contain nuts and other ingredients II add different flavors to the fish or shellfish. Review the battering and breading pocedures discussed in Chapter 21 , Deep-Frying. Additional seasonings come m sauces and other accomp,lniments served with the pan-fried fish or shellfish. Cooking Temperatures The fat should always be hot before the fish or shellfish are added. Breaded ubanered fish fillets cook very quickly, and the fat should be hot enough to the coating without overcooking the inlerior. Whole pan-fried fish take b!ger to cook and therefore require a slightly lower cooking temperature so • the surface does nOl become tOO dark before the interior is cooked.
"""II
Atrom/X1llimellls 10 Pall-Fried Fish and Sbelljish ltmon wedges are the classic accompaniment to pan-fried fish and shelllib. Sauces that accompany pan-fried items are made separately" foobyonnaiseba5td sauces such as tartar sauce (Recipe 24.20) and remoulade sauce are esptriaIIy !XlPular; rich wine-based sauces should be avoided. Vegetable coulis, .n as tomato, also cOl11plemenl many pan-fried items. Additional sauce sugFStioo.s are found in Table 10.5. IImDURE FOR PAN-FRYING FISH AND SHELLFISH
L Heat enough clarified butter or oil in a heavy saute pan so [hat it will come one third to halfway up the side of the item. The fat should be at a It'mperature between 325°F and 350°F (I60°C-180°C). 2. Add the floured, breaded or battered item to the pan, being careful not to splash the hot fal. Cook until done, turning once halfway through the rooking process. J. Remove the food and drain on absorbent paper. , Serve it promptly with an appropriate sauce. =========== ~ ============= RECIPE 19.4
BLUE CRAB
CAKEs
WIlli FRESH
SAL\fI
rid!!: 1; 2-oz. (60-g) C'dkes
Blue crab meat Heavy cream Red bell pepper, small dice Green bell pepper, small dice
lib.
-
450 g
60z.
ISO mI
2 oz. 2 oz.
60g 60g Confin /led
~
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CHAPlfjR 19
Clarified bulter
as needed
as needed
Green onions, sliced
1 bunch
Fresh bread crumbs Salt and pepper Di;on mustard Worcestershire sauce Tabasco sa uce Egg, slightly beaten Tomato Salsa (Recipe 10.18)
6 oz.
1 bunch 180g
1T
1T
1 Tbsp.
15ml
1T 1T
1T 1T
1 1 pt.
SOOmi
I . Carefully pick through the crab meat, removing any pieces of shell. Ktt
the lumps of crab meat as large as possible. 2. Place the cream in a saucepan and bring to a ooiJ. Reduce br 3J>1X1 malciy onc half. Chill the cream well. 3. Saute the red and green bell peppers in a small amount of clarified hunt until tender.
4. Combine the crab meat, reduced cream, peppers, green onions and proximately 3 ounces (90 grams) of the bread crumbs along with (he pepper, Oijon mustard, Worcestcrshire sauce, Tabasco sauce and egg. 11\ to combine all ingredients, trying to keep the lumps of crab meal intact 5. Using a mold, form the crab mixture into clkes of the desired size. 6. Place the remaining bread crumbs in an appropriately sized hOlel pan. Pb. the crab cakes, a few at a time, in the hotel pan and cover with [he Ore crumbs. To help them :Idhere, press the crumbs lightly into the cakb. 7. Heat a Saute pan over moderate heat and add enough clarified buut1 cover the bottom approXimately 1/ 4 inch (1/2 centimeter) deep. 8. Add the crab cakes to the pan and cook until done, turning once WOClldl. first side is nicely browned. Remove and drain on absorbent paper. 9. Serve the crab cakes with fresh lomato &llsa. Approximate "allies per 2-oz. (60-g) CJkc .serving' Ca lo ries 130, Total fat 6 g. Saturated fal ll Choleste rol 60 mg. Sodium 650 mg, Total ca rboh)'d rales 9 g. Protein 10 II. Vi tamin C [;0.
1. Mixing all ingredients for the crab cakes.
2. Forming the crab cakes.
3. Pan-frying lhe crab C1kes.
Moist-Heat Cooking Metbods Fish and shellfish lend themselves well to moist-heat cooking methods, esped1. slea ming, poaching and simmering. Steaming best preserves the (exxfs nalUl -4lavors and cooks without :ldding fat. Poaching is also popular. especiallr for PO:lChed fish can be served hot or cold, whole or as steaks, fillets or portJJ Boiling, which is actually simmering, is most often associated with cruStarelfll
FISH AND SHElLFISH
,\ very natural way 10 cook fish and shellfish without adding fa ts. Fish I them over a small amOunt of boiling liquid in a cov. The steam trapped in the pan gently cooks the food while preserving :~~:';~':~,~ and most nutrients. The liquid used to steam fish and shellfish a coun bouillon with herbs, spices, aromatics or wine added to item with additional flavors. Mussels and dams can be steamed by ;~,,;;~:; directly in a pan, adding a small amount of wine or other liquid them. Their shells will hold them above the liquid as they cook. can also be steamed by wrapping them in parchment paper with herbs, \'egetables, bullers or sauces as accompaniments and bakin a hOI: oven. lllis method of steaming is called en papillote. fish and shellfish should be moist and tender. They should have delicate flavors. Any accompaniments or sauces should complement item without masking its flavor. Fish and shellfish cooked en papilb",h"ld be served piping hOI SO that the aromatic steam trapped by the escapes as the paper is cut open tableside.
:
:
St/eclillg Fisb alld Sbelljisb to Steam Mollusks (for example, dams and mussels), fatly fish (for example, salmon bass) and lean fish (for example, sale) all produce good results when . The portions should be of uniform thickness and no more than 1 12.5 centimeters) thick to promote even cooking.
SttJsoning Pisb and Shelljish to be Steamed Sit'amed fish and shellfish rely heavily on their natural flavors and often re1"('1")' liule seasoning. Nevertheless, salt, pepper, herbs and spices can be i directly to the raw food before steaming. Flavored liquids used 10 fish and shellfish will contribute additional flavors. If the liquid is served the fish or shellfish as a broth or used to make a sauce to accompany the it is especially important that the liqUid be well seasoned. Lemons, limes .'."
krompanimellts to Steamed Fisb and Sbelljish ~med
fish and shellfish are popular partly because they are low in fat. In with this perception, a low or nonfat sauce or a simple squeeze of and SlC3med fresh vegetables are good accompaniments. If fat is not a then an emulsified butter sauce such as beurre blanc (Recipe 10.16) .lK~I,",d'ii se (Recipe 10.15) may be a good choice. Table 10.5 lists several suggestions. Cassie New England steamed dams are served with a portion of the steamsteamed mussels are served with a sauce that is created from the
I ~IXII)URE FOR STEAMING FISH AND SHEU FISH
1 Ponion the fish to an appropriate size. Clean the shellfish. Prepare the cooking liquid. Add seasoning and flavoring ingredients as de5ired and bring to a boil. Place Ihe fish or shellfish in thNteamer on a rack or in a perforated pan and corer lightly.
~.
491
492
("'\!\,.
CHAfTJ'ER 19
4. Steam the fish or shellfish until done. 5. Serve the fish or shellfish immediately with the steaming liquid or an appropriate sauce.
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 19.5
STEAMED SAMtON WITH LEMON AND OLIVE 011 Yield: 1 serving
1. Pbcing the fish in the steamer.
Lemon zest, blanched Lemon juice Salt and pepper Virgin olive oil White wine Bay leaf Leek, chopped Fresh thyme Peppercorns, cracked Salmon tranche or steak, approx. 6 oz. (1SO g)
1 Thsp. 2 Thsp. IT 2lbsp. 8 oz.
15 ml 30 ml Tr 30 rnl 250 ml
1
1
2 oz. 1 sprig 1 tsp.
60g I sprig
5 rnl
1. To make the dressing, combine the lemon zeSt, lemon juice, salt and M'" per. Whisk in the olive oil. 2. Combine the wine, bay leaf, leeks, thyme and peppercorns in the 00u of a steamer. 3. Season the salmon with salt and pepper and place it in the steamer OOfJ;('l 4. Cover the steamer and bring the liquid to a boil. Cook the fish unlit door approximately 4-6 minutes. 5. plate the sa lmon and spoon the dressing over it.
2. Spooning the dressing over the
Approximate vatues per servi ng: calories 620. Total fat 40 g, SaturatC"d fat 6 g. Cho[esterol 9\ Sodium 700 mg. Total carbohydrates 16 g. Protein 48 g. Vitamin C 50%
fish .
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 19.6
RED
SNAPPER EN PAPILLOTE
Yield: 6 servings Clarified butter Leek, julienne Fennel, julienne Carrot, ju lienne Celery, julienne Red bell pepper, ju lienne Red snapper filletS, skin on, 6 oz. (180 g) each Salt and pepper Basil Butter (pg. 211)
as needed 3 oz. 4 oz. 3 oz. 3 oz. 3 oz.
as needed
90g 120 g
90g 90g 90g
6
6
IT 9 oz.
IT 270 g
1. CUI six heart-shaped pieces of parchment paper large enough [0 COO\U
one portion of the fi sh and vegetables when folded in half. 2. Bmsh each piece of parchment paper with clarified butter.
-
FISII AND SIIELLFISH
J Toss the vegetables together. Place one sixth of the vegetables on half of e'ldl piece of the buttered parchment paper. Pbce one ponion of red snapper on each ponion of vegetables, skin side lIP: season with salt and pepper. J Top each ponion of fish with I 1/2 ounces (45 grams) of basil buller. , fQId each piecc of paper o\'cr and crimp the edges to seal it. ". Place mc envelopes (papillotes) on sheet pans and bake in a preheated (l\cn 3t450°F (23O"C) for S- IO minutes. t IflIen baked, the parchment paper should purr up and brown. Remove from the oven and serve immediately. The envelope should be carefully rut open tableside to allow the aromatic steam to escape. t
~1IIIJl<' l":iIIll'S per serving: Calo ri(':l 380. To ml fat 19 g. S:IIUr:Il00 fat t I g, Cholesterol 125 mg, 'GIiat btKIlIljl, Total carboh )·dr:ItI..'!J 6 g, I>rotc ln 46 g, Vitamin A 5(m, Vitamin C 30%
2. Placing the vegetables, red
I. Cutting hean-shaped pieces of
snapper and compound bUller on the buuered parchment paper.
parchment paper.
j,
4. TIle fi nished papillotes.
Crimping the edge of the parchment paper 10 seal it.
frxIcbillg 'u.ld!ing is a \·ers:nile and popular mellxxl for cooking fish. Shellfish are ~. poached, however. 11le exception is squid, which can be quickly ))J(I\ed and chilled for usc in 5.1lads and other preparations. There are (wo distinct poaching methods. The firsl is the submersion method, in which the fish is completely covm! \\'jlh a liquid, usually :1 coun bouillon, fish stock or fish fu met. It is cooked i1)USl done. TIle poached fish is lhen served (either hot or cold) with a sauce
-
~
493
494 '"""
CIWl1iR 19
sometimes made from a portion orlhe cooking liquid but more often made.!qlarately. \'V'hole fish (wrapped in cheesecloth 10 preserve its shape duringroi· ing), tranches and steaks can all be cooked by submersion poaching. The second method, called shallow poaching, combines JX):lching om steaming to achieve the desired results. TIle main itcm, usually a fillet, uardr or steak, is placed on a bed of aromatic vegetables in enough liquid to ccur approximately halfway up its sides. TIle liquid, called a cuisson, is brouglK II a simmer on the stove lOp. TIle pan is then covered with a piece of bunt'lt'd parchment paper or a lid, and cooking is completed either on the stove top (I in the oven. Shallow-poached fish is usually served with a sauce made 'u the reduced cooking liquid. (Sometimes the main item is sauteed lightly befat
the cooking liquid is added. If so, the cooking method is more accurately braising, as both dry- and moist-heat cooking methods are used.)
Selecting Fish to Poach Lean white fish such as turbot, bass lind sale are excellent for poachirJ Some fatty fish such as salmon and trout are also excellent choices.
Seasoning Fish 10 be Poached Fish (Xlached by either submersion or shallow (Xlaching gain aU oftheirlOsonings from the liquid in which they are cooked and the sauce with which ~ are served. Therefore, it is very im(Xlrtant to use a properly prepared court 1xQ. lon, fish fume! or a good-quality fish stock well seasoned with vegetables SId as shallots, onions or carrots as well as ample herbs, spices and other 5t':3SI» ings. Many (Xlached fish recipes call for wine. When using wine either in 1M cooking liquid or sauce, be sure to choose a wine of good quality. Most 11slu~ very delicately flavored, and using poor-quality wine might min an otiIeAlI: excellent dish. Citrus, especially lemon, is always a (Xlpular seasoning: Iem:I juice or zest may be added to the (Xlaching liquid, the sauee or the finisheddisb.
Accompaniments 10 Poached Hsh Poached fish cooked by submersion go well with rich sauces like Id landaise and beurre blanc. If fat is a concern , a better choice may be a l'et etable coulis (for example, broccoli or red pepper). Cold poached fish our commonly served with mayonnaise-bllSed sauces such as sallce vert or Iimoulade. Shallow-poached fish are served with sauces such as a white wilr sauce or beurre blanc made from a reduction of the liquids in which the fuiI were poached. See Table lOj for additional sauce suggestions. Poached fish are often served with rice or paSta and steamed or boiled l"et etables.
PROCEDURE FOR SUBMERSION POACHING 1. Prepare the cooking liquid . Whole fish should be started in a cold liquid;
1.
3.
4.
5.
gradually increasing the liquid's temperature helps preserve the appemm of the fish. Portioned fish should be slarted in a simmering liquid to preserve their flavor and more accurately estimate cooking time. Use a rack to lower the fish into Ihe cooking liquid. Be sure the fish is completely submerged. Poach the fish at 175°F-185°F (79°c-85°C) until done. Remove the fish from the (Xlaching liquid, moisten with a (Xlrtion of the liquii and hold in a warm place for service. Or remove the fish from the poaching liquid, cover it to prevent drying and allow il to cool, then refrigerate. Serve the (Xlached fish with an appropri:l1e sauce.
-
FISH AND SHELLFISH
c"'2t.
495
...,.,., ======= RECIPE 19.7
WHOLE POACHED SALMON rll'Jd: 18-20 servings
\ilmon. drawn, 4-5 lb. 0.&-2.2 kg)
(oon bouillon
as needed
as needed
/. Place {he fish on a lightly oiled rack or screen and secure with burcher's ome l Pbce the rack or screen in a pOt and cover with cold COUll bouillon. J Bring the court bouillon {O a simmer over moderate heat. Reduce the heat lnd poach the fish at 175°F-180°F (79°C--85°C) until done, approximately
30-4; minutes, t If the fish is to be served hm, remove il from the court bouillon, drain-
Ing IreU, and serve immediately with an appropriate garnish. If il is \0 ~ ser..ed cold, remove it from the court bouillon, draining well, cool
and refrigerate for several hours before decorating and garnishing as de,irrtI. \"llub per q-()z. (t2(}-g) sen'ing; Calo ries 114, Tobl fat 3 g. Saturated b l 1 g, Cho lC!!· 1ftaI" IIlg, Sodium 80 mg. Total carnohydr.lIcs 0 g. Protein 22 g. Calcium ffliI
/, ,ur.mging the whole fish on a r.lck.
2, Preparing the court bouillon,
Prorn!RE FOR SIIALI.OW POACIIING I Bunt'!" a sauteuse
and add aromatic vegetables 3S directed in (he recipe.
1. Add me fish [0 the pan. J .\dd the cooking liquid to the pan. i Co'.er the p.1n with buttered parchment paper or a lid. S. Bring the liquid to a simmer and cook the fish on the stove top or in the 01"1;'11 ullIil done. ARt:mO\'c the fish from the pan, moisten with a portion of the liquid and hold in :I warm pbce for service. ", Reduce [he cuisson and finish the sauce as directed in the recipe. & ""'I\C the po:lched fish with the sauce.
-
3. Removing and draining the fish,
496 ' .,
CHAPTER 19
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 19.8
FILLETS OF SOLE BONNE FEMME Yield: 2 servings
I . Arranging the sole on the bed of
shallots and mushrooms.
Sale fillets, approx, 2 1/2 oz. (75 g) each Salt and pepper Whole butter Shallots, minced J\'lushrooms, ~lic~d White wine Fish stock Fish veloute Lemon juice Parsley, chopped
4
4
IT
IT 10 011 5011 120 g
2 tsp. 1 tsp. <\ oz. 3 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz.
90 ml
IT
120 011 120011 IT
1 tsp.
5ml
J. Season the sole with salt and pepper.
2. Covering the fish with buttered parchment paper after the liquid is added.
2. Melt the butter in a saute pan. Add the shallots and mushrooffil arrange the sole fillets over them. Add the wine and fish stock. 3. Bring the liquid to a simmer. Cover the fish with buttered parchment pav and cook on the stove top or in a 350°F 080°C) oven until done,3PJ1" imately 5-8 minutes. 4. Remove the sole and reserve in a warnl place. 5. Reduce the cuisson until approximately 1 ounce (30 milliliters) rerru. Add the veloutc. Add lemon juice to taste and adjust the seasonings St't1 the sauce with the fis h, sprinkled with chopped parsley. Approxim.ue v;llues pt..... serving: Calories 440, To ul fat 14 g. S3turatoo fat S g. Cholestm.li ! Sod!um 37;0 mg. Total carboh yd rates n g, l>rot~in 42 g
Simmen'ng 3. Adding t.he veloute to the cuisson.
"BoBed n lobster, crab and shrimp are not actually boiled; rather. they cooked whole in their shells by simmering. Although they are not as delic as some fish, these crustaceans can become tough and are easily o\"erccd if the cooking liquid is allowed to boil.
Selecting Sbellfish to Simmer Lobsters, crabs and shrimp are commonly cooked by simmering. Their shells prorf"ci their delicate flesh during the cooking process.
Seasoning Sbellfish to be Simmered TIle shellfish being simmered are not seasoned. Rather, they g
Detennining Doneness Timing is the best method for determining the doneness of simmered sh! fish. This varies depending on the size of the shellfish and how quickly the uid returns to a simmer after the shellfish is added. Shrimp cook in as link
f7SI1 AND SIIELLFISII
J.l.,",Ules, Cf3bs rook in 5-10 minutes and it can take as little as 6-8 minfora I-pound (450-gram) lobster to cook and 15-20 minutes for a 21/2""O,l-ki'lel>stam) lobsl«,
kcompallimellls 10 Simmered Shellfisb The standard accompaniments 10 simmered shellfish are lemon wedges and buner. If the shellfish is being eaten cold, the traditional sauce is a "'l!>lx,sed cocktail sauce. Nearly any type of vegetable or starch goes well lilt ,;imrner,ed shellfish, the mOSt common being fresh corn on the cob and
pocaloes.
mJURE fOR SIMMERING SIlElLFISIl
Bring court bouillon or water
\0
a boiL
Add the shellfish 10 the liquid. Bring the liquid back to a boil and reduce to a simmer. (Whenever an item is added to boiling water, it lowers the water's IeIllperature. The greater the amount of water, however, the faster it will return \0 a boil. So, to accelerate the time within which the water returns to aboil after the shellfish is added, use as much water as possible.) H loktmlil done. Remove the shellfish from the liquid and selVe immediately. Or cool by dropping them in ice water if they are to be eaten cold. ========== ~ ============ RECIPE 19.9
BOILED LOBSTER fldd: I serving
LOOster, 1 lb. 8 oz. (650 g) Boiling salted water Lemon wedges Whole butter, melted
I
I 16 II
4 gal. 4
4
2 oz.
60g
L Drop tbe lobster into the boiling water. Bring the water back to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook the lobster until done, approximately 12 minutes. Remove the lobster from the POt, drain and seIVc immediately with lemon a-edges and melled butter on the side. ~ the lobster is to be eaten cold, drop it in a sink of ice water to stop the cooking process. When cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the !hell following the procedures discussed earlier.
1:::-:;: ms.
l-a/ues per I·lb. (4SO-g) serving: Calories 650, Tow Cal 26 g, Saluraled fal 15 g, ChoSOOium 1960 mg, Total carboh)·drale!l II g, Prolcin 93 g, Vlwnin A 3;9i, Villl_
mWII1allcm
Cooking Methods
cooking methods are used with me-dlS, game and poultry in pan Because fish and shellfish are inherently tender, they do not benefil from such procedures. As noted in the section on shallow fish can, on occasion, be lightly sauteed or browned and then
<'""!a.
497
498 '"""
CJIAPl7iR 19
poached. Although this procedure is a combination cooking method, it is tl.ld to enhance flavors and not to tenderize the produa. You may encounter fish or shellfish recipes with the word
braised or lIlY
in the title. Note, however, that these recipes rarely follow the traditional cat bination cooking methods discussed in this Ix>ok.
tifONCLUSION .n-, In part because of consumers' increased health awareness, more and
IlU
foOO service operations are expanding their selections of fish and shel!5t Their task is aided by the tremendous variety of high-quality fish and sbeIIiI now available. A variety of dry-heat and moist-heat cooking methods an II used with these produc15, and a variety of sauces and accompaniments can lr served with them. Regardless of how they are served, Care and anemion.
required in order to select, store and avoid overcooking fish and sheUfish.
, (}2UESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION .n-, I. Discuss six techniques for determining the fres hness of fish and shellfish 2. What are the physical differences between a flatfish and a round fish! HoIdo fabricalion techniques vary for Illese fish? 3. List four market forms for fish, and discuss several factors that may detennine the form most appropriate for an operation to purchase. 4. List the three categories of mollusks, and give an example of a colTlJTlOlllf used food from each category. S. Discuss four methods for determining the doneness of fish or shellfish_ n, is it important not to overcook fish and shellfish? 6. Explain the differences berween shallow poaching and submersion poachq Why is poaching a commonly used method for preparing fish and shellfisli 7. Why are combination cooking methods rarely used with fish and shelIfisb1 Why is boiling rarely used?
~DmONAL FISH AND SHELLFISH RECIPE) .n-, RECIPE 19. 10
SEA BASS WITH THAI CURRY SAUCE AND WOK VEGETABLES NOTE: 7bis disb apfJ«lTS in lbe Cbapler ()etling pboIogrnpb. FLYING FISII , $FATTU!, W,\
Chef Owller Cbristine KejJ Yield: 6 Servings
Chilean sea bass fillets. 5 oz. (150 g) each Salt and pepper
Method: Sauleil'.g
6
6
IT
IT
FISH AND SHELLFISH
Peanut oil
I Tbsp.
15 ml
Wok Vegetables (recipe follows)
Thai Curry Sauce (recipe follows) fried beet frizzles
as needed for garnish
Sah and pepper both sides of the sea bass and set aside. In a large saute pan, heat the oil over medium high heat. Gentl}' place the sea bass fillets into the hot pan and cook to desired doneness, turning once. Serve me fish over a bed of Wok Vegetables and drizzle with the Thai CUITY Sauce. Top the fish with a mound of fried beet frizzles. I'lIlues per serving: CalorlC!ll 290. Total fat 13 g, Saturated fat " g, Cho lesterol 60 mg , I mg, Total carbohydrates 13 g, Protein 31 g
WOK VEGETABLES fldd: 6 Servings
Green cabbage Zucrhini Yenow squash Peanut oil Fresh ginger root, peeled, chopped fine Garlic, chopped fine Qlamro, destemed and chopped coarse Peanuts, roasted, unsalted, chopped Sesame oil Sesame seeds So')' sauce Fresh lime juice Minn RiC'e wine vinegar Sah and pepper
1/2 head
1/2 head
}
}
}
1
I Thsp. I-in. knob 2 doves 2 oz. 21bsp. } Thsp. Itsp. 2 Tbsp. 2 Thsp. 2 Thsp. 2 Thsp.
15 mI
15 ml 5m1 30m} 30m} 30 ml 30 ml
IT
IT
2.5-cm knob
2 doves
60g 30ml
L Core the C"Jbbage and cut imo a rough julienne. Grate the outside of the zucchini and the yellow squash, discarding the inner seeds. Heal the peanut oil in a wok or large skillet over high heat. Add the ginger, garlic, cabbage, squashes, cilantro, peanuts, sesame oil and sesame seeds. Cook, tOSSing frequently, until the vegetables begin to wilt. Deglaze the pan with soy sauce, lime juice, miTtn and Vinegar. Season to Wle with salt and pepper. l'lllues per 6-oz. 075·g) serving: Caklries 114, Total fat 7 g, Saturated fat 1 g, Cholesmg, Total carbohydrates 12 g, Protein 3 g, CWms--low satUrJt~-d f31; no good $OOrc"C' of fiber
11W CURRY SAUCE field: 6 Servings
I'tanut oil Qmy paste (recipe follows) Men stock Coconut milk
as needed 3 11)sp. 6 oz. 4 oz.
as needed 45 ml
180 ml 120 ml COlllil/lwd
~
499
500
~
CJIJtmR
19 I . Heat a small saUie pan and lightly coat it with peanut oil. Add the cum
paste and Saute briefly. 2. Add the chicken stock and reduce by half. 3. Add the coconut milk and simmer until the sauce is thick enough to roll a spoon. Approx.imale values per !-oz. OJ-g) serving: Calories ~5, Total f.1I ~ g, Saturated fat 2.5 g. £WI. ttrot 0 mg, Sodium 75 mg, Total carboh)'drate! I g, Protein I g
CURRY PASTE
Yield: 8 oz. (250 g) Fresh galangale, peeled Fresh ginger root, peeled Fresh rumeric, peeled Shallots, peeled Garlic, peeled Cilantro Juice of 1/2 lime Dried Thai chiles, soaked in water to soften Peanut oil
1 oz.
109 109
I oz. I oz.
30 g 60g
2 oz. 6 cloves 112 oz.
6 ciQ\'cs
as needed
as needed
14 g
I. Combine all ingredienlS except the oil in a food processor and grind
2. Add jusl enough peanut oil to make a paste. Continue to process until dr
paste is smQO(h. valUe! per l-oz. (~ serving: Catories 30, Total fat ] g, S:uuratm lill 0 g. c.. t.,rul 0 mg, Sodium ]5 !llg, Tut;o.I,:arbohf dratQ 5 g. PrOlcin 0 g
Appro~ima[e
============ ~ =========== I RECIPE 19. 11
GRIllED CHILEAN SEA BASS WITH ANA£4Z1 BEAN STEW AND NOPAL CACTUS SAm THE BOUlDERS RESORT, Cu!F.FREE, AZ Corporate £xccIIU/le CbefCharies Wiley
Method: Grilliri
Yield: 6 Servings
Chilean sea bass fillelS, s-6 oz. 05(}- 180 g) each Kosher salt Black pepper Anasazi Bean Jus (recipe follows) Anasazi Bean Stew (recipe follows) Nopal Cactus Salsa (recipe follows) Fresh cilantro, chopped
6
6
IT IT I 1/2
IT IT C.
30. I 1/2 c. 2 Thsp.
360m! 721Jm! 360m! 30 ml
I , Prepare a mesquite or charcoal grill. $eason the sea bass with salt and ~
per. Grill over medium heat until fish barely flakes when touched wiIb I fork. Keep warm. . 2. Place 2 ounces (60 milliliters) of Anasazi Bean Jus in each bowl. S~ 1 cup (I 20 milliliters) of the Anasazi Bean Slew into the center of earn oo.t
FISIIANDSHEJ.1J7SH
Place me grilled sea bass over Ihe stew. Garnish with Nopale Cactus Salsa md chopped cilantro. _
'"11ucs per serving: Calories 490, TOlai fat 8 g, SaulJ"ated fat 1.5 g, Cholesterol 75 mg, ", ... Toul carbo hydrates SCi g. Protein 50 g, Vitamin A ;0%, Vitamin C ;o%, Claims-
ANASAZI BEAN JUS rdd: 1 1/2 cups (360 mO Reserved liquid from beans Cooked Bean Stew (recipe follows) .Who chile, toasted and tom into pieces Tomato paste Kosher salt Black pepper
1 pI. 1/2 c.
500 011 120011
1
1
21bsp.
30ml
1T 1T
1T 1T
Combine all ingredients in a blender. Puree on high speed until smooth . Pass the puree through a fine strainer mel season with salt and pepper.
ANASAZI BEAN STEW TItId: 3 cups (720 m!) .WsW beans Carrol, diced fine Onion, diced fine Celel)" diced fine
otr..e oil Wrlk, chopped Sballots, chopped Com kernels, cut from grilled ears lorna tomatoes, seeded and chopped Kosher salt Black pepper
I pI. 1 medium I medium I stalk Ilbsp. 1 tsp. I lbsp.
500 ml I medium I medium I stalk 15 ml 5 ml 15 ml
2 ears
2 ears
3
3
1T
1T 1T
rr
Rinse the be
kt:rnd~
and tomatoes; cook an additional 3 minutes .
.-\dd the beans and simmer for 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
NOPAL CACTUS SALSA rltld: 1 112-2 cups (360-.450 m!)
Sepal C1C(US pad, de-thorned with vegetable peeler IoolJ tomato, seeded and julienned Contin l/ed
~
501
502
~
ClIAPTER 19
Golden tomato, seeded and julienned Red onion, julienned Cilantro, chopped fine Lime, juice of Kosher salt Black pepper
I
I
1/2 1 LSp.
1/2 5ml
I
I
IT IT
IT IT
1. Blanch the cactus pad in a pot of boiling sahed water for 15 =000, immediately under cold running water. 2. Julienne the cactus pad. Toss all the ingredienLS together.
""I
============ ~ ===========I RECIPE 19. 12
RArAJ'OUlUE CRUSTED SALMON CITRUS, Los A~GEI.fS, CA CheJilliclx:/ Richard
Yield: 4 Servings Red bell pepper, roasted and peeled, brunoise Yellow bell pepper, roasted and peeled, brunoise Garlic, chopped Olive oil Zucchini, brunoise Black olives Scallops, I2~ 1 6 count Salt and white pepper Heavy cream Salmon fillets,S oz. (140 g) each
Memo" "'"" 2 oz.
60g
2 oz. ]/2 LSp. as needed 4 oz. 1 oz. 2 IT Ilbsp. 4
60g
3as"" needed 12{) g ](Ig 2 IT
15 ml 4
1. Saule the peppers and garlic in a small amount of olive oil until move and spread in a pan to cool. 2. Saute the zucchini in a small amount of olive oil until tender. spread in a pan to cool. 3. Remove the pits from the black olives and cut brunoise. 4. To make the scallop mousseline, process the scallops in the chilled food processor. Season with salt and white pepper. With running, add the cream and mix until incorpor:lled. 5. Remove the mousseline to a bowl and stir in the sauteed ,·elletabb. olives. 6: Place one founh of the mixture between two sheeLS of pl'''k W"P ,.... out in a rectangle slightly larger than the surface of the salmon 7. Remove the top ia)'er of plastic. Season the salmon filieLS with salt per. Turn the vegetable mixnlre over onto a salmon fillet and p""soh heres to the fish. Peel off the second layer of plastic. Repeat 8. Bake the salmon, ratatouille side up, at 3500F (l80°C) until done. malely S-IO minutes. Serve with an appropriate sauce such as a Red per Coulis (Recipe 10.17).
Ren"".
ApproxilT\Jtc values per serving: Calories 470, Total fat 18 g, Saturatl'
Coo,'' ,,
FISH AII'D SIlELLFJj1f
====== .......,.,., ====== RECI PE 19 . 13
SAIfTEED SALMON WITH AsPARAGUS AND MORElS TAVERN ON TIlE GREF.;'\', N~" YORK, fo.'Y COO/MlIrc Poidevi"
rltld: 6Servings
Method: Sauteing
\luct:
Dr)' white wine
Fresh tarragon Fresh rosemary Fresh thyme Shallots. sliced Heavy cream Unsalted butter lemon juice Salt and pepper Slhnon fillets, center CUt, 8 oz. (250 g) each Ohl'e oil Fresh morels, c1e:med and rinsed l'nsalted buner .-I.Sp.1r.lgus, jumbo spears, 11/2-in. (4-cm) tips only, cooked
8 oz. 2 sprigs I sprig I sprig 3 80z. 80z. 2 oz.
225 ml 2 sprigs 1 sprig 1 sprig 3 225 ml 225 g 60 ml
1T
1T
6
6
3 oz. lib. 3 Tbsp.
90ml
30
30
450 g 451111
L To make the sauce, combine the white wine, tarragon, rosemary, thyme aoo shallots in a small saucepan and reduce by two thirds.
l .".dd!he cream and reduce until thick, approximately 5-10 minutes. Stir in !he buner, add the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Stmin and resel'.e in a warnl pbce for service. J Season the salmon with S.lit and pepper. Saute the fish in olive oil until golden and cooked 10 the desired done ness. i lna5eparnte pan, s.IUte the morels in 3 tablespoons (45 milliliters) of butIl'I' for 10 minutes. Season to taste with s.11t and pepper. t To assemble, pbce the salmon fillels on 6 individual plates, pour the sauce llOlmd them :md arrange the morels and asparagus around the fillets. ~I~ I':tiws per S('1\·jng: Caloril'S 990, Total b t n g. Sa turated fat 33 g, Cholesterol 26; mg. 1l*m ;3O mg, Total carbohrdrnws 9 g, Protei n 67 g, Vita mi n A 60%, Vilamin C 40%
t"'\!\.
503
504
~
C/IAP7'IJ'R 19
============ ~ ===========I RECIPE 19.14
CHILLED POACHED S AMION ROUlADE
WI11I
THAi
N OODLE SAlAD
AND SOY MOlASSES VINAlGRE1TE Chef lela"d Atkinso",
\'(IASlrL'iGTOS, DC
Yield: 5 Servings
Method: Poachin~
Red bell pepper, julienne Yellow bell pepper, julienne Onion, julienne Olive oil Salmon fillet, skin off, pin bones removed, :lpprox. 2 lb. (I kg) Salt and pepper Fresh cilanlrO, chopped Thai Noodle Salad (recipe foll ows) Soy Molasses Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
6 0z.
6 oz. 5 oz. I oz. I
180 g ]80g 150 g 30 ml ]
IT
IT
2 bunches as needed as needed
2 bunches as needed as needed
1. Quickly Saute the peppers and onions in the olive oil; drain and cool 2. Trim the fat and dark flesh from the skin side of the fillet. CarefuU)" t. terfly the fillet, cover it with plastic wrap and pound gemly. 3. Place the salmon, skin side up, on a rectangular piece of plastic'tlI that extends at least 3 inches (75 centimeters) beyond each end cit. fillet. 4. Season the fish with salt and pepper; sprinkle the cilamro over it. DisIrJo ute the cooled onions and peppers over the cilantro, leaving at leaslJ . inch (S·centimeter) edge of salmon uncovered on all sides. 5. Roll the salmon and peppers into a tight pinwheel and firmly knO! the In) of the plastic wrap. 6. Tightly roll the fish in aluminum foil, twisting the ends to fonn l tip cylinder. 7. Poach or steam the fish until it reaches an internal temperature of !1(I'F (HOC). Remove from the poaching liquid and chill. 8. At service time, unwrap the chilled salmon and carefully slice it. _ the sliced salmon on plates with the Thai Noodle Salad. Pour 3 0IJIXti (90 grams) of the Soy Molasses Vin:ligreue around the salmon 31 the lit moment. Approximate values per serving: Calories 430. Total fat 20 g, Saturated fat
TIIAI NOODLE SALAD Yield: 5 Servings Cellophane noodles Fresh cilantro, chopped Oyster sallce Sesame oil Garlic, minced
3.4 oz. 2 bunches 2 Thsp. 1 Thsp. 1/2 l1)Sp.
lOOg 2 bunches
30 ml 15 Illl 81111
FISH AND SIIELLFISfi
Soy sauce Red pepper, crushed
2 'Ibsp. 1 pinch
3Om1 1 pinch
Pour boiling water over the noodles and allow them to steep umil they are al dente, approximately 5 minutes. Refresh in cold water. Drain well. Too the noodles with the other ingredients. Adjust the seasonings to taste. ,;aluts per 5nVing: CalorlC!$ 100. Tow fal 3 g, SalUt':ll~ fal 0 g, Choleslerol 0 mg, mg, Toui carbohrdralCS 18 g, Prolcln 0 g, CWnu-Iow fal
SOY MOLASSES VINAIGREI11: Y'IfJd: I pI. (450 ml)
Molasses Rice vinegar
Soy sauce Fresh ginger, chopped coarse Olire oil
4 oz.
120 ml
2 oz. 8 oz.
60 ml
1 LSp.
5 ml
as needed
as needed
250 011
1 Combine the molasses, rice vinegar, soy sauce and fresh ginger in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and remove from the heat immediately. Allow the mixture to rest, undisturbed, for I hour. 1 ~in and chill the molasses mixture. Add the olive oil at service time. ,;aIues IIlg, Sodium
per I.oz. (26.g) serving: CaJories 35, Tow fal I g, SalUr.llOO fal 0 g, Chota820 mg. Tow carboh}·dr.ues 6 g, Protein 1 g, Oaims-Iow fal; low caloric
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 19. 15
1'ERlrAK/ SAlMON
W1m PINEAPPLE-PAPAYA SALS4
Yield: 4 servings So)' sauce Garlic, crushed Ginger, minced Brown sugar Sake n, tranches, 4 oz. (I 20 g) each \tgefable oil Pineapple-Papaya Salsa (Retipe 25.9)
8 oz. 1 tsp. 1 LSp. 2 oz.
4 oz. 4 as needed
16 oz.
250 ml
5 ml 5 ml
60g 120ml
4 as needed 450 g
1 To make the marinade, combine the soy sauce, garlic, ginger, brown sugar and sake. Marinate the salmon tranches in the sauce for 15 minutes. Remove the salmon from the marinade and pat dl)'. Brush them with vegetable oil and broil or grill umil done. Serve the salmon on a bed of warmed Pineapple-Papaya Salsa. """"" ,.",~ per scl'lling, CaJorlcs 330. Tow fat 9 g. SalUraled fal 2 g, Choleslerol 65 mg. mg. Tow carbohydralcs 28 g, Proleln 35 g, Vlumin C 60%
mo
c"\!t.. 505
506 ,"""
CIW'l1!R 19
============= ~ ============ RECIPE 19. 16
RED
S NAPPER VERACRUZ
Yie ld: -4 Servings
Saul~
Red snapper fillets, skinless, 6 oz. ( 170 g) each
4
4
Salt and pepper Flour
IT as needed
IT
Olive oil
2 oz.
as needed 60 ml
Onion, medium dice
6oz. 4
4
Lemon juice
1 oz.
J()
Fish or chicken stock
8 oz.
250m]
Garlic cloves, minced
180g
ml
Jalapeno, seeded, small dice
1
1
Tomato concassee
1 lb. 8 oz.
6;0 g
PimientO-Sluffed green olives, quanered Sugar Cinnamon stick Dried thyme Dried ma~oram
Cape" Fresh cilantro J.
Method:
2Q
20
I lSp.
5 ml
1
1
112 tsp.
2 ml 2 tnl
112 lSp 2 Thsp. 30 ml as needed for garnish
Season the fillets with sail and pepper and dredge in nour. Saute the fUIcs in olive oil until done. Remove and reserve in a warm place.
2. Add the onions and garlic to the pan and saute until lender. Deglazdr pan w ith the lemon juice and add the stock, jalapeno, tomatoes, oliIu. sugar, cinnamon stick, thyme and ma~oram. J. Simmer 10 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick and add the capers. Set son to taste. 4. Return the fish to the pan to reheat. Serve on warm plates garnished ,. fresh cilantro. VARIATIONS:
Substitute bass or halibut fillets for the red snapper.
Approxunatt' \'alues per 5efVing: Calories 570, Total fat 22 g, Saturated fat 3 g. Cbolestaoil:ll .. $odI um 1820 mg, To tal carbohrdrates 41 g, Protdn 51 g, Vitamin C 7O'Mo
============ ~ =========== I RECIPE 19. 17
PAN-FRIED TROUT Wlm TOASTED GARlJC Yield: 1 Serving Trout, pan-dressed Sail and pepper Flour Clarified butter Whole butter Garlic cloves, sliced Ihin Lemon juice Fresh parsley, chopped
Method: Pan-F£)~ 1 IT
1 IT
as needed 1 oz. 1 Thsp. 2 1 oz. 1/2 tsp.
as needed J() ml 1) rul 2 J()ml 3ml
FfSH AND SHEW'/SII
I. 5eason the trout with 5.1lt and pepper; dredge in flour. 1 Pan-f,), the trout in the clarified butter umil lightly browned and cooked
through. Remove and reserve. J IA!grease Ihe p<1n, add Ihe whole bUller and cook until it begins to brown. to .o\dd Ihe sliced garlic and Saute a few seconds, until tile garlic begins to oown. 5 Add the lemon juice and parsley and swirl 10 combine with lhe buner.
, Top the fish with the sauce and serve. lOllimlle I\llues per servmg: CaklrlClil 6SO. Total fat 47 g. Saturaled fat 2j g, Cho leslcroi 165 mg. WiIm 1600 mg. Total carbohyd rate$ 28 g, Protein 28 g. Vitami n A 4S%, Vitamin C 30%
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 19. 18
BlACKENED SWORDFISH WITH RISOTTO
CAKE
fiXING FISH, SE.~ffiE, WA CIJej.OUlflcr Christi1le KeJf Yield: 6 Servings ~I\"ordfish steaks Bbck peppercorns, (nlshed Fresh lime juice
Xrj' ,),'lure Rwto Cakes (recipe follows)
6 l Thsp. 2 oz. 2 oz.
6
6 15 ml 60 ml
60 ml
6
I. Cool the swordfish steaks evenly with the peppercorns. 1 Heat a wok or cast iron skillet over high heat until very hal. Place the .Itl'aks into the hot pan and cook for I minute per side. J Combine (he lime juice and soy $.1uce. Deglaze lhe fish wilh the soy mixture and cook just until the liquid evaporates. Turn lhe fish frequent ly to
coal it with the sauce. f. Serve with RiSQuo Cakes and steamed bok choy . .nimaIe ~"l11.ll:S per Sl."rving: Ca lorle$ 145, Total fat " g, Saturated fat t g, Choleslcrol 42 mg, !odiam "&l mg, Totat carbohydrate$ 3 g, Protein 22 g. Claims-low SJtur:llcd fal
RJSOlTO CAKES Yield; 6 Servings ~"bean oil Garlic, minced Onion, chopped
Boz.
250 ml 2 cloves
2 cloves 2 oz. I tsp. l iSp .
60g 5 m! 5 ml
.\morio rice Olicken Sl:ock, Simmering
1 pI.
500 ml
\faler, hot Parmesan, grated Egg, be'J(cn
~lt
IIbd< peppe<
I qt.
II,
needed 21bsp.
as needed 60 ml
I
1 COli/iI/ Heel
C""'\!\. 507
508
("'\!\"
CHA?T'ER 19
Flour, seasoned with salt and pepper Panko Oapanese bread crumbs)
as needed for breading 112 cup 120 rul
1. Heat I tablespoon (15 milliliters) of the oil in a deep saute pan. Add garlic, onion and 112 teaspoon (3 milliliters) each of salt and pepper. over medium heal umil the onions are translucent 2. Add the rice and saute for 1 10 2 minutes, being careful not to bum rice. 3. Reduce the heat to medium low and add 1/4 cup (120 milliliters) cl chicken stock. Cook for approximately 15 minutes, stirring frequently adding the remaining stock slowly as needed. If addLllonalliquid is for the rice to be fully cooked and lender, add hot water. 4. Add the Parmesan and season with salt and pepper. 5. Press the risotto into an even layer on a lightly greased baking sheet. completely in the refrigerator. 6: CUI out 6 cakes, using a cookie cuner or knife. Bread the cakes with wash, seasoned flour and panko, using the standard breading found in Chapter 21 , Deep-Frying. 7. Heat the remaining soybean oil in a deep saute pan to 340°F the cakes on both sides umil golden brown . Approximate v31K'S per serving: Calories 5007, Total fat 39 g, Sa turated fat 6 g, Ch"lo ''''' I'. Sodium 639 mg. Total carbohydrates 30 g, Protein 9 g
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 19.1 9
SESAME SWORDFISH Yield: 1 Serving Leek, julienne Swordfish steak , 6 oz. (170 g) Sesame oil Sesa me seeds Fish stock Tamari sauce
4 oz. I
1 oz. loz. 2 oz. 1 lbsp.
120 g 1 30 rul lO g
60mi 15 ml
1. Deep-fry the leeks at 280 C F (I400C) until golden brown. Drain well. 2. Brush both sides of the fish with sesame oil. Coal bolh sides of with the sesame seeds, pressing 10 make a solid, even coaling. 3. In a very hOI pan, saute the fi sh in the remaining oil. Turn Ihe fish and ish cooking it in a 375°F 090°C) oven. 4. Remove the fish from the pan and hold on a warm plate. Deg[aze wirh the fish stock. Add rhe ramari sauce and heat thoroughly. 5. Place the fish on a bed of fried leeks, then pour the sauce ol'er and serve immediately. VARIATIOl'is: Substitute a tuna or shark sleak for Ihe swordfish steak. Appro:timate \'31ue5 per ~eT... ing: Calories 780, TOiai fat 52 g. Saturatfll fat 9 So Cho"","" " Sodium 14"10 mg, Total carbohrdratC!> 24 g, Protein 53 g. Vitamin C 25%. Caldum 3)0\1
FISH AND SHEllFISH
f=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 19.20
A CORIANDER-CRUSTED YELLOWFIN T UNA WI11I BRAISED WHl11i' BEANS
AND ROAS11?D PEPPERS TIlE BOU1J)ERS RESORT, CutEfREE, AZ Corporale E:t:ecuIiL'e CbejChorles Wiley
Yitld: 4 Servings
Olire oil Ydlowfin tuna , sashimi-
1 1/2 LSp.
8ml
quality loin Coriander Chile Mix (recipe follows) lI.l!s3mic vinegar Braised While Beans (recipe follows) Cilantro Puree (recipe follows) lemon juice FrisI."'e and mizuma lenuces
8 oz. 31bsp. 1/2 c. 2 Thsp. 1/ 41Sp. I 1/2 c.
250 g 45 ml 120 ml 120 ml 30ml 2 ml 360ml
Kosher salt
IT
IT
4 oz.
l Heallhe olive oil in an 8-inch saute pan over medium heat. l lighdy dust all sides of the lUna with Coriander Chile Mi."\:.
J Pbre me tuna in the pan and cook for 8 seconds on each side (the tuna t
J ,
1.
should be rare). Remove 10 a waon plalc and cover. ~tJke a balsamic S}'rup by boiling the vinegar in a nonreactive saucepan until it is reduced 10 a syrupy consistency. Place 3 tablespoons (45 milliliters) of Br'dised White Beans in the center ct each plate. Drizzle I 1/2 teaS(XK>ns (8 milliliters) of Cilantro Puree and I 112 teaspoons (8 milliliters) of the balsamic syrup around the beans. In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon (3 milliliters) of olive oi!. Toss the greens in a mixing bowl wilh a pinch of salt and just enough of the dressing to coal each leaf. Dil'ide the greens between the four plates, arf",:mging them on top of the beons. Slice the lUna into 12 equal pieces and arrange on top of the greens.
~ ,'aIues per serving: Ca lorle5 110, Tow fat 2.5 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Choleste rol 35 mg, ..... 105 mg. Total Cll'bohydr;u C!l 5 g, Protein 17 g, Vitamin A 10%, Vitamin C 25%. Claims-
tall: loll' mum
CORIANDER CHILE r.~:
~ux
3 fup. (45 ml)
Whole coriander seeds \'ew Mexico chiles, ground Kosher salt
2Thsp. IThsp. 1/2 ISp.
30ml 15 Illl 3 ml
I. ToaSIthe coriander seeds over medium heat in a small, dl)' saute pan. The
seeds will be slightly brown and fragrant. Continued
C"'\!\.
509
510
C""a.
ClW'J'ER 19
2. Transfer the seeds to a spice grinder and grind to medium consistent)·.
3. Mix all the ingredients in a small bowl. ApproxilTl:ll<: v:llucs per 1I2-Tbsp. (2-g) serving: Calories 5, Total fat 0 g, Satunted fat 0 g. Qob. terol 0 mg, Sodium 280 mg, Total carbohydrates 1 g, Protem 0 g
BRAISED WHITE BEANS Yield: 4 servings White beans, soaked Smoked ham hock (optional) Chicken stock Red bell PCPPC' Yellow bell pepper Olive oil Red onion, peeled and diced Kosher salt
1 c. 1
2;0 mJ
24 oz.
720 ml
1
1
I tsp. 11bsp.
Sml
IT
IT
1
15 mI
1. Drain the beans and combine with the chicken stock and ham hock III. medium sauce pan. Bring to a boil, simmer and cook until done, appm mately 45 minutes. 2. Char the red and yellow bell peppers over an open flame (grill or gas.\Ullf top). Remove the charred peppers to a small plate and cover wilh p!Ul" wrap. Let the peppers sweat for 10 minutes. 3. Unwrap the peppers. Peel ofT the skin, remove the seeds and dice in Itinch (6-millimcler) pieces. 4. Heat a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the olive oil and saute dr red onion until translucent. 5. Drain the beans and add them to the onions along with the diced TOOltIaI peppers and adjust the seasoning. Approximate values per serving: Calorlt'$ 120. Tow fat 2.5 g, Saturated fat .5 g, ChoIc5ltrol OIl Sodium 580 mg. Tow carbohydrates 15 g, Protcin 9 g, Vitamin CliO%, C1aifllS--bl,' fat. .... lcsterol: high fiber
CILANTRO PUREE Fresh cilantro leaves Garlic clove Fresh lemon juice Olive oil Kosher salt Pepper
1/2 bunch 1 1/2 ffip. 2 oz. IT IT
112 bunch 1 3ml 60 m! IT IT
1. Place all the ingredients in an blender and puree until smOOth. Approximate V
FfSII AND SIIFJ,lF/S1I
============ ~ ============== RECIPE 19,21
PAN-SEARED SEtl BASS Wlffl BEEI' VINAIGRE1TE SfoutHR SfANFORD COURT HOTEL,
SA.~
FRA.-;asco, CA
jomler CbefErcoIino Cmgllale rlfld: 10 Servings
Method:
Otilean sea bass, diamond-cut fillers, 3 oz. C90 g) each »It and pepper Olire oil Shiitake mushrooms, sliced Zucchini, julienne
Yellow squash, julienne Red bell pepper, julienne Oticken stock Beet Vinaigrette (recipe follows) fttjto, peeled, julienne and deep-fried crisp
20 Tr as needed 10 oz.
Sauteing
20 Tr as needed
300 g 300g 300 g 150 g 300 ml
10 oz. 10 oz. 5 oz. 10 oz. 3 oz.
90 ml
20 oz.
600g
1 Season the fish on both sides. Saute in olive oil umil fully cooked. 1 "e:lnwhilc, saUle the shiitake mushrooms in olive oil for 30 seconds. Add
tlr zucchini, squash and red peppers.
J Oeglale the pan with chicken stock and adjust the seasonings. .. Toserye, (XlOllhe Beet Vinaigrcuc onto warm plates. For an interesting ef-
fect, drizzle the sauce drop by drop into the middle of the plate from a fright of 3 feet (1 meier), then pool the remaining sauce on the plate. Place the vegetables in the center with the fried potatoes on tOp. Arrange the fish on the \'egetables. ~lt .... Iues
per serving: Calorie!! 430, Total fat 15 g, Saturated fat 4 g, CholC5terol 90 mg, Protein 44 g, Vitamin A 11m, Vitamin C 3Cm
w.. 610 mg, Total carboh)"drates 29 g,
l
BEET VINAIGRETTE r!tld: I ql. (l It)
lied juice fresh horseradish , grated Shallru, minced G.1rlic, minced Fresh thyme Black peppercorns .J.ppIe cider vinegar 'l1tite wine Poollt}, demi·glace C
\fater \l11
3 pI. 31bsp.
45 ml
2lbsp. I Thsp. I bunch 10 8 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz. 21bsp. 21bsp. TI
30ml 15011 1 bunch 10 250 011 120011 120 ml 30ml 30m] TI
1.5 It
Continlled
r'\!\.,
511
512
~
CHAPTER 19
1. Combine the beet juice, horseradish, shallots, garlic, thyme and black percorns. Reduce to 1 1/ 2 pints (700 milliliters). 2. Add the vinegar, white wine and demi-glacc; simmer 20 minutes. 3. Combine the cornstarch and water until smooth. Whisk the slurry i s.1uce and bring (0 a boil. Strain through a fine-mesh china cap and~ to taste. Approximate values per t -ol. (62-g) SClVing, Calories 20, Total fat 0 g, Saturated fat (I g. QoD terol 0 mg, Sodium 100 mg, Total carboh ydrates 4 g, Prote in 1 g, Claims-fat (Itt: Ja.. low caloric
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 19.22
STlIMfED BlACK BASS Wlm SANSHO PEPPER THE FOUR SEASONS, Nh"l' YORK, NY
Che/Christian Albin
Method:
Yield: 6 Servings Black bass fillets , skin on, approx. 5 oz. (ISO g) each Leek, large, cut into stripS Sansho pepper and sea sail Ume Lemon Olive oil Pommery mustard Salt and pepper
6
6
IT
1 IT
1
1
3 Thop. I tsp.
45 mI 5ml
IT
IT
Sl:eaming
1. Ughlly score the fish skin, then place the fillets , skin side up, and !helM!
in a steamer basket. Season with sansho pepper and sea salt. Steam foriip' proximately 5 minutes. 2. To make the vinaigrette, zest and juice the lime and lemon. Blanch tb: zests in water. Drain and mix the zests and juices with the olive o~ ~ Pommery mustard; season to taste with sail and pepper. J,. Plate the fish fillets and garnish with the leeks. Drizzle the vinaigrette (1\(1 the fish and leeks. Approximate v:llues per serving: Diona 220, Total fat 7 g, Saturated fat 1.5 g, Cholesttrol l!'i .. SOdium 530 mg. Totat carbohydrates 5 g. Protcin 35 g. Vitamin C 20%
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 19.23
BAKED MONKFISH wlm BACON Method: Baking
Yield: 8 Servings Bacon, thin slices Monkfish fillets, 6 oz. (ISO g) each Whole butter, melted Salt and pepper Lemon juice
4 8 as needed
4 8 as needed
IT
Tf
2 Thop.
30m!
FiSlIANDSlIELlFISH
~
513
cook the bacon on a sheet pan in a 350°F (ISOOC) oven for 5 slice of bacon in half. Wrap each ponion of fish with bacon and with a toothpick. Buuer a baking pan and place the fish in it. Season with salt and pepper. Brush the fish with bUller and sprinkle with lemon juice. Bake the fish at 4SOOF (230°C) until done, approximately 12-15 minutes. 5m1' the fish with an appropriate sauce such as tomato coulis or a tomatobased sauce such as Spanish or creole Cp. 205). 5I!('Ufe
,... Iue$ per serving: Calories 190, Total fat 6 8. SatUnlted fat 2 8, Cholesterol 60 mg, ... '" "•., TOIaI carbo hrdnltes 0 8, Protein 32 8
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 19.24 Pauplclte---a th/II slice of meal or fISh thai is roiled aroulld a fillillg offillely groulld meal or 1'fgfIa1Jler, Ibm fritd, baked or braised in uine or
PAUPlElTES OF SOLE wlm MOUSSELINE OF SHRIMP Method: Poaching
lidd: 6 Sen'ings ~pmeat
12 oz.
J60g
fig white He:al")' cream ~ and white pepper lm>n sole fillets, skinless, 4 oz. (120 g) each tOOle butter smIlots, chopped PaISley SIems, chopped 1"hite vermouth Shrimp stock Beurre manie
1
1
6 oz.
ISO ml IT
IT 12
12
as needed 2 oz.
as needed
6
60 g 6
ISO ml 6 oz. 12 oz. J60 ml approx. I 1/2 oz. approx. 45 g
1 To make the mousseline, plIfee the raw shrimp meat in a food processor. 1 .~dd the egg white and pulse \0 incorporate. Slowly add 2 ounces (60 milliliters) of the cream 10 the shrimp while puIs· ing the processor. Season the mousseline with salt and white pepper. , Place the sole fillets, with the side that had the skin on tOp, on a cutting board and cover with plastic wrap. Then flatten the fillets slightly with a malIo. Spread each fillet with a portion of the mousseline. Roll up the fillets, SUning with the thickeSt part and finishing with the tail ponion. , Butter a 5aUleuse and sprinkle wim the chopped shallots and parsley ,ems. PIa« the sole paupiettes in the sauteuse and add the vermouth and shrimp stock. Bring the liquid to a boil, cover with a piece of buttered parchment paper and place in a 350°F (1S00C) oven. Poach until nearly done. Remove the sole from the sauteuse and reserve in a warm place. Rerum the sauteuse to the heat and reduce the cuisson slightly. Continued
.,a.
514
~.
ClW'TER 19
11. Thicken the Cllisson 10 the desired consistency with the beurre nuni 12. Add the remaining cream, bring the sauce to a boil and strain ~
fine chinois. Adjust the seasonings.
13. Serve [wo paupiettcs per ponion on a pool of sauce. Approximate \"aloes per scrving; Calork:$ 450. Tot:d fat 18 g. Saturated fat 9 g. Sodium 970 mg. Total carbohrdrala
1. Using a mallet to flallen a fillet sl ighlly.
2. Spreading the fillet with the mousseline.
CboI~ttroO
3. Rolling the pallpienes.
====== ...".. ====== RECIPE 19.25
CHILLED SHEllFISH PlA1TER TIlE FOUR SEASONS, N.:w YORK, NY Chef Cbristiall A/bill
Method: Simmering
Yield: 2 Appetizer Servings Lobster, boiled Oysters Shrimp, 0-10, boiled and peeled, tails inlact Crab meat, lump Carrots Celery Scallions B.1by fennel , split and blanched Red oak leaf lettuce
I
I
4
4
4 3 oz. as needed as needed 2
4 908
as needed
as needed
as needed as needed 2
1. Remove the tail from the lobster. Remove the meat from the tail in
piece and cut it in half lengthwise. 2. Clean and open the oysters, leaving the oyster meat on the h:llf·sheU. 3. Mound cmshed ice on a large serving platter. Position the lobster head ao.I lxxIy in the center of the ice. Place the pieces of lobster ta~ around lIr lobster lxxIy. Arrange the remaining shellfish over the ice, using the t2 rolS, celery, scallions, fennel and red oak leaf lettuce as garnish.
m.
Approximate values per scl'ling: Calories 490, Total fal 4.5 g. Saturated fat I g. CholesttrOl Sodium t780 mg. Total earbohylir:lles 26 g, I>rOldn 85 g, Vlla mln A 320%. Vitamin C fn:o.
FlSIIANIJSfIJ.1J.F1S1I
~ =======
RECI PE 19.26
PAEUA Cbef lell/1/d A/kinSOIl, WAS/tI~GTO~, DC Method: Steaming
rtld:! Servings
Chden thighs sm and pepper Olin: oil Onion. medium dice
Gmk, chopped RaI bell pepper, medium dice Green bell pepper, medium dice Rice, long gr:lin ~ron
Olicken stock. well seasoned, hot OIorizo. cooked, sliced Clams, scrubbed Cockles, scrubbed )brimp, 16-20 count lOO&er, cut up ~!lI.'iICl:i, debearded and scmbbed
4 TI 2 oz. 2 oz. 1 Thsp. 2 oz. 2 oz. 12 oz. pinch 26 oz.
4 oz. 12 12 12 1 12
4 TI 60ml 60g 15 ml 60g 60g 350 g pinch 750 ml 120 g 12 12 12 1 12
I. ~ the chicken with salt and pepper. Pan-fry it in the olive oil, browning il well. Cook until done, approximately 20 minutes. Remove the
chicken and reserve. 1 Atkl the onions, garlic and peppers to me pan and ! .~dd the rice and SaUie until it turns translucent.
5.1ute
until tender.
i .~dd
the saffron to the chicken stock. Stir the chicken stock into the rice and bring to a boil.
S. ,\dd [he sliced charizo, clams and cockles to the pan. Cover and place in a n OF 090°C) oven for 20 minutes. , Add [he shrimp, lobster and cooked chicken [0 the pan. Cover and cook for 1n additional 15 minutes. ~ Add the mussels to the pan and cook until lhe shrimp and lobster arc done, the chicken is hot and all the shellfish are opened, approximately 5 minutes . .B.tQUle \~Iue;; per SCfVing: Calori(';$ 930. Total f(lt 41 g. Saturated fat 10 g, Cholesterol 650 Sodium !050 mg. Total carbohydrates 3] g, Protein 110 g. Viumln A 25'l6, Vitamin C ~
... '
=========== ~ ============ RECiPE 19.27
ClAMS CAsINO Method: B:lking
rtC:ld: 36 Clams Onion, minced
4 slices l oz.
Red bell pepper, minced
I oz.
Baron, diced
4 slices 30 g 30 g COl/tilllled
~~
515
5/6
~.
CliAPI1iR 19
oz.
30g
Green bell pepper, minced
I
Whole butter
60l.
Lemon juice
Worcestershire sauce Tabasco sauce Clams, scmbbed
1 Thsp. 21Sp.
180 g 15 ml IOml
1T
1T
J6
Fresh bread crumbs
2 oz.
J6 60g
1. Fry the bacon until well done. Drain the fal, reserving 2 tablespoons (
milliliters). 2. Saule the onions and peppers in the bacon fat until tender; remove frat' the heat and cool. 3. Combine 4 ounces (120 grams) of the butter, lemon juice, Worcester.;hire
sauce, Tabasco sauce, bacon pieces and sauteed vegetables and chill. 4. Open the clams, leaving the meal in the bouom shell. To p each clam wit, 1 teaspoon (5 milliliters) of the seasoned butte r. 5. Melt 2 ounces (60 grams) of bUller in a salllC pan and toss the hreau cnllubs in the buuer. Top each d am with a lX>rtion of the bread crumlJ 6: Bake al 400°F (200 CC) until light brown and bubbling, approximalel)'
minutes. Serve immediately. ApproJ[ioule V3]ues per clJm: Calories 45. Toul fat 4 g, Saturated fat 2.5 g. ChokslI:rol I Sodium 65 mg, Total carbohydra lCII t g. J>To(tln 0 g
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 19.28
STEAMED MUSSElS W1111lEEKs AND CARROTS Chef i.e/mId Atkinson, WASlIlSGTOS, DC
Yield: 2 Servings Mussels, debearded and scnlbbed Dry white wine Garlic, chopped Black pepper Fresh thyme Bay leaves Leek, julienne Carrot. julienne Whole butter Fresh parsley, chopped
Method: Steaming 21b. 8 oz. I oz. 1/2 tsp. 4 sprigs 2 2 oz. 2 oz. 4 oz. I Tb.sp.
900g 250 Illl
JOg 2 ml 4 sprigs 2
60g 60g 120 g 15ml
1. Combine the mussels, wine, garlic, pepper, thyme, bay [ea\"es, leek:; an! carrots in a large sautoir. 2. Cover the pan and bring to a boil. Steam until the mussels open. J. Remo\'e the mussels and arrange them in 2 large soup plates. 4. Reduce the cooking liquid b}' half, monte au beurre and pour the sa over the mussels. The carrQ(s and leeks should remain on lOp of the!ll. sels as garnish. 5. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve with French bread. ApproJ[inIJtc I'3JUC$ per serving: Calo ries 1220, Tou t fat 67 g. Satu rated fat 33 g, Cholestnol mg. Sodium 2170 mg, Total carbo hydrates 44 g, Protein ItO g, Vlumln A 140%. Vitamin C I
Iro n
:zocm
PISHANDSIIELLFlSff C\!\.
===== -.p ====== RECIPE 19.29
ALE-STEAMED
M USSELS WIlli TASSO, CHILES AND L EEKS "IIOENIX BRt:WING CO., AnA''!'', GA E:r(!clltive Cbe/Kevill FOllzo
YlCld: 1 Serving
1 Thsp.
5 ml 30ml
1/ 2 1/4 cup 1/ 4 cup
1/2 60 ml 60 ml
12
12 150 ml 30g 3 ml 3ml
lisp.
lj:lIlic. chopped W.IIOIS, chopped
leek, while part only, julienned
Tasso ham, medium dice Rrd chile flakes frl'Sh bbck mussels,
debearded and cleaned
5 oz.
\k Butter, unsalted Ilbck pepper
1 oz.
'"
,h.:.oned fresh herbs, chopped
1/2 ~p. 1/2 lSp. lisp.
S ml
:I medium-sized saute pan. Add the garlic, shallots, leek, ham and dtiIes. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until the vegetables are soft, but not
L Heu
"""TI.
1 .\dd the mussels and cook for I minute. Add the ale and the buuer.
J (q.er me pan tightly :Ind Sleam the mussels until Ihey open. to Remove the cooked mussels from the pan and place them in a warm serv·
ing bowl. Add the salt, pepper and herbs to the sauce and bring to a boil. Pour the sauce and the vegelables over the mussels and serve. WlIl4te 1'31llC:S per serving; Calories 860. Total fal 61 g, Satur:lll'd fal 24 g. Cholester ol 295 Sodium 2610 mg. Tolal carbo hydra tes 5 t g, I'rolein 27 g. Vitamin A 5(1%, Vitamin C 30%,
... ,.
===== ~, ======
l
RECIPE 19.30
OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER fllelh od: Baking
Yield: 36 Oyslers
lRSJ.ltoo butter fresh p:irsley, chopped Cffll'. chopped
romel. chopped 'tullOlS, chopped
Gvtic, chopped ialdCre5S,
chopped
Pemod fresh bread cmmbs SJlI3nd pepper
8 oz. I oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. I tsp. 4 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. TI
250 g
30 g 60g 60g 60g 5ml 120 g
60 ml 60g TI COl/til/ lied
517
518
~.
ClW'TER 19
Oysters, 00 the half shell Rock salt
36
36
as oeeded
as needed
1. Heat the butler in a saule pan, Add the parsley, celery, fennel, shalloolllll garlic and cook for 5 minutes. 2. Add the wate rcress and cook for I minute.
3. Add the Pernod and bread cnmlbs; season with
&1Jt
and pepper.
4. Transfer Ihe mixture to a food processor and puree. 5. Top each oyster with approximalely 2 teaspoons (10 milliliters) of t/l('lft etable mi.xllIrej it should coal the oyster's entire surface. 6. Bake the oysters on a bed of rock salt :1I 450°F (230°C) until the milttit' bubbles, approximately 6-7 minutes. Approximate values per O~'SIcr {\02 g} Calories 170, Total fat 9 g, Sa tur:lled fa ! 4.5 g, CIlol!M tOS mg, Sodium 450 mg, Tota l carbohydrat~ 9 g, Protein J3 g. Vitamin A I5%, Iron rtJ;..
====== ~. ===== RECIPE 19.3 1
FRIED OYSTERS WIlli
HERBED CREAm FRAlCHE
Yield: 4 Appetizer Servings leeks, julienne Oysters, scrubbed Flour Eggs Egg yolks Fresh bread cnLmbs Sauce: Cornichons, chopped fine Capers, chopped fine Dijon musta rd Paprika Parsley, minced Creme fraiche
Method: DeeI'Fry"g
3 24 4 oz.
2 2 8 oz. 1 Thsp. 2 Tbsp. 1 LSp. 1/2 tsp. 2 Tbsp. 40z,
3 24 120 g 2 2 240 g 15 mJ 30m!
5 ml 2011 30ml 120 Illi
1. Deep-fry the leeks al 280°F (140°C) llntil golden brown. Drain and stt aside.
2. Open the oysters. Strain and reserve the liquor.
3. Poach the oysters in Ihe liquor (or 30 $e1:onds. Drain, reserving the Jiqui! Cool the liquid and oysters separately. 4. Sel up a .<;tandard breading slalion with the flour, eggs, egg yolks and 1:md crumbs. (See Chapter 21, Deep-Frying.)
5. Bread the oysters, then deep-fry them at 375°F (I90°C) until browned, 2pprOXimately 1 minute.
6. Prepare the sauce by combining all remaining ingredienLS except the creor fraiche. Whip the creme fraic he until shff. Fold in the cornichon miwt Chill until service. 7. Serve the oysters on a nest of leeks with the salLce. Approximate VlIlues per serving: Calorll'$ t22(}, To tal fat 44 g, Saturated fat 17 g. Cholesrerol i"i mg, Sodium 2870 mg, Total carbohrdrales t 18 g. PTotcin 89 g, Vltaml ... A 5I.l'%. Vitamin C"" Iron 3&m
FISJ/ AND SHELJ}'/SI/
====== ,~ ====== RECIPE 19.32
STEAMED SCALLOPS
WIlli GINGER, BASIL AND ORANGE VlNCENT ON CAMELBACK, PlfOf.:;lX, AZ Cbe/Vil/ce"t Gllerilballfl
,tid: I Serving
Method: Steaming
Oranges
,..
2
2
fuur tortilla, 8 in. (20 em)
1
1
ScaUops, large Ginger, grated
3
3 S 011
lisp. 2 oz. 1 oz. 2 Thsp.
ClrrOl, julienne Celery, julienne
TOIl1:lto, small dice Fresh basil, choppt."
I Thsp.
JThsp. TI 8 oz. I tsp.
OIirc oil
SJh and pepper Ihile wine ~,chopped
60g 30g 30ml 15011 15 ml TI 250 ml 5ml
1 ZesI the oranges and then cut them in I/2-inch O.2-centimeted slices. Peel
the lime and CUt into 1/4-inch (6-millimeter) slices. 1 line a small bamboo steamer with the flour tortilla.
J Place the scallops on lOp of the tortilla.
Add the orange zest, ginger, calT()(, crlery, tomato, basil, olive oil, two slices of time and a dash of So'll! and jX'ppeT. Cover.
t Place the white wine, chopped shallots, orange slices and remaining lime
slices in the bottom of the steamer pan. Steam the scallops over the sea· sooed wine until done, approximately 5 minutes . .wwmre \'alucs per serving: Calories S40. lOla l fa t 18 g, Saturatl-d fal 2.5 g, Cho leslero l 45 Iil Sodium 1660 109, l Olal carbo hyd rall:s 67 g. I'rotcl n 27 g. Viu.min A 120%, Vitamin C 270%,
. '"
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 19.33
NAPOLEON OF SHRIAfP AND SCALLOPS RIVERIA Rt:srAURANT, A11A\'TA, GA
CbejJ(fck Shoop, QIIC
'icld: 4 Servings
Puff pastry Egg }<J!k Se3llops, large
1/2 lb. 1 12
RP, 16-20 count, peeled and deveincd Clarified butter
12 1 oz.
500g 1 12 12
30ml COllfilllled
(""0,
519
520 '"""
CIIAPIER 19
Sea salt While pepper
IT IT
Parsley, chopped
1 lbsp.
15ml
Lemon
I 1 l1)sp. 2 oz.
I
Shallots, minced Spinach leaves, washed Orange segments
12
Suo-Dried Tomato Sauce (recipe follows)
6 oz.
Fresh chervil
as needed
IT IT
15 ml 60 8 12 180 mJ as needed
1. Roll out the puff past!)' into a sheet 6 inches wide by 12 inches 1/ 8 inch thick (15 centimeters by 180 centimeters by 3 m;";m,",,,l III
the puff paStry sheet for 10 minutes. 2. Whisk the egg yolk together with 1 teaspoon (3 milliliters) of brush the puff pastry with the egg wash. Using a pastry comb.
.J.
dough in each direction . Cut the puff pastry in10 4 pieces, I }/2 inches by 3 inches (J.:i " ..
lers by 7.5 centimeters), Place on a parchment-lined sheet par, an" .. 350°F OSOOe) unli] golden brown. Let the pastry rest 30 i slice each piece in half horizontally to foml the bottom and Napoleon. 4. Cut the scallops in half horizontally and saute them with the shrimp Hied bUl1er for approximately 3 minutes. Season to taste and add chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon juice. 5. In a separate pan, saute the shallots and spinach umit tender. taste with salt and pepper. ti Place the bottom of a Napoleon shell on a plate. Place the spinach orange segments on top of the pastry. Arrange the sliced scallops of the spinach and oranges and place the shrimp on top of Spoon 1 1/2 ounces (45 milliliters) of the Sun-Dried Tomato Sauce emire arrangement. Place the top piece of puff pastry on top of the and garnish with chervil. Approximate VlIIlues per serving: Calorief 860. Total fat 32 g, Saturlited fat 8 g. Sodium 960 mg. Total carbohrdralElS 63 g. Proldn 79 g. Vllamin A 260%, dum 2(m
Cl~"''''''~
SUN-DRIED TOMATO SAUCE Yield : 2 quarts Shallots, minced Sun-dried tomatoes, minced Garlic cloves Olive oil Tomato concassee Champagne White stock Opal basil bouquet gami Heavy cream Fresh orange juice Sea sail Pepper Whole butter
3 oz. 5lbsp. 7 4 oz. Soz.
908 75 ml 7 120 mJ 2;og 180 mJ 2;0 ml
I
1
J qt. 4 oz.
Jit 120 mJ IT IT 120 8
Soz.
6 oz.
IT IT 4 oz.
FISIIA/VDSHELLF/SH
SalM the shallots, sun-dried tomatoes and garlic in the olive oil for 2
Add the tomato concassee, champagne, white stock and bouquet garni and miuce by two thirds. Add the cream and simmer for 40 minutes.
Add the orange juice, season to taste and monte au beurre. "~'''',. po< I 112-oz. (45· ml) serving: Calories 155, Total (at 16 g, Saturated fat 9 g. Cho. SOd I,., 43 mg, Total carbo hydrates 2 g, Protein 1 g, Vitamin It 15%
~======== ~ ============ RECIPE 19,34
SCAUOPS AND SHRIMP
SMIBUCA Method: Sauteing I, julienne Carrot, julienne Cdery, julienne hp, U-IO, bmterfiied 1'hole butter Bay scallops Sak and white pepper
-'"
Her.y cream M" pastry neurons Fttshdill
I oz. I oz.
1 oz.
3 I Thsp.
30g 30g 30g 3 15 ml
3 oz.
90g
IT I oz.
IT
3 oz.
30mI 90mI
2
2
1 sprig
1 sprig
carrots and celery. Refresh in cold waler, drain and the shrimp in the butter over high heat for I minute. Add the scal• and saute for 30 more seconds. Season the shellfish with salt and pepper, remove and reserve in a warm place. the pan with Sambuca. Add the cream. Boil and reduce until the SlUce thickens, Add the vegetables, scallops and shrimp to the pan and simmer until the shellfish is done, approximately 2 minutes. Adjust the sruonings. the vegetables and shellfish mounded on a wann plate, garnished fo1h the neurons and dill . . ._
" "", I'" 'kn (270-g) serving: Calo ries 1350, Total fat S8 g, Saturated fat 31 g, Cho. 3370 mg, Total carbohydrates 117 g, Protein 90 g, Vitamin A 120%, CaI-
F========= ~ ============ RECIPE 19.35
SHRIMP Wlm OLIVE OIL AND GARLIC Method: Sauteing
l'IrkI: 4 Servings Garlic, chopped Fl!ra lirgin olive oil
4 Thsp.
60mI
4 oz.
120 mI ConUnued
~
521
522
.~.
CHAm:R 19
Shrimp, 26-30 count, in shell Coarse sea salt Lemon juice
2 lb. 8 oz.
I kg
I TIJSp. 2 TI)Sp.
30 Illl
15 ml
J. Saute the garlic in the oli\'e oil until translucent. 2. Add the shrimp and salt. Toss to coat the shrimp with the oil and cook r.s until the shrimp are pink, approximately 5 minutes. Add the lemon jUlie j.
Arrange the shrimp on warm serving plates; top with the oi!. garlic olIIj lemon juice left in the pan. Senfe immedi:ttely.
Approximate values per servinJ,t: Calories 530. TOlal fat 31 g. S:atUr;lted f~t 4.~ 8. Chnlt:. 2 g, Protein 60 g, Vilamin A 20%. \'iwni!I C_ Iron 50%
====== ~ ===== RECIPE 19.36
SIIRlJJtP POACHED IN ORANGE J UICE, GINGER AND SAU1'ERNE from Allen Susser's Nelli World Cuisine and Cookery" by AllEN SUSSER, NOIrn[ MIA'll &'00[, Fl. Yield: 4 Sen/ings
Method: Poaching
Jumbo shrimp, raw Orange juice, fresh squeezed Fresh ginger, julienne Sauterne Shallots, julienne Carrots, julienne Kosher salt Black pepper I.
16 I pt.
2 Thsp. 40z, I pL
16
SOOml 30 ml 120 mI
1 tsp.
SOOml SOOml 5 ml
I tSp.
5 Ill!
I pL
Peel, clean and butterfly the shrimp.
2. Place all the ingredienLS in a low-sided pan with a lid and slowly
\\0l'!I
over low heat to jusl about a simmer. Cover the pan and poach the sIuiqJ for 3 to 4 minutes. The shrimp should be rosy pink and fiml to the I~ j. Remove from the heat and serve the shrimp with the vegetables and txttt Approximate v:llllcs p(:1' serving: Calories 410, TOb l fat 4 g, Sa lurated rat I g, Cholesu:J()I MlII Sodium 1360 mg, Total carbohrdr;lles 1 1 g, Protein 73 g, Vitamin A ! ~ Vitamln C 1 Iron 6o'Ii
•
•
•
====== ~ ====== RECI PE 19.37
•
•
•
GRILLED PRAWN BROCllElTE WITH Blf1TERNUT SQUASH RISOTTO
•
•
BlSIIOP'S RESTA UR·\ NT, VA." COOYER, Be Cbejs ,Ilicbaef Affemeier and Del/llis Green
• Yield: 4 Servings
•
•
Whole Pacific spot prawns Vegetable oil
24 large 2 Thsp.
24 large 30 ml
FISH AND SHELLFISH
· ,minced ~ thyme leaves bemut Squash Risotto (recipe follows) f'I,wn Sauce (recipe follows) ~h thyme sprigs
2 cloves 4 sprigs
2 cloves 4 sprigs
4 servings
4 servings 12 oz. 360 ml as needed for garnish
and devein the prawns, reserving the heads and shells for the stock. ,\rr:lnge 6 prawns on each pair of skewers and place in a shallow dish . I \Ow;,,, the oil, garlic and thyme leaves and spread Ol'er the prawns. (q.·cr and refrigerated for I hour, or until needed. the prawns on a vel)' hot grill until slightly firm to the touch and barely opaque in the middle, approximately 2 minutes on each side. Serve «I top of:1 mound of Butternut Squash Risotto with the Pmwn Sauce drizzled around the edge. Garnish with fresh thyme. \';llues pee se1\"iog: Calories m. Tow {a1 9 g. Saluralm fat 1.5 g. Cho leslerol 440 mg, rug, TOlal carbohyd rates 2 g. Proleln 4S g "'tamln A IS%. Iron 40%
8UITERNUf SQUASH RlSOITO tftl: ~ Servings I medium I ·Ibsp.
Onion, fine dice ~bleoil
Imcr
Ilbsp.
.\IOOrio rice
I pI.
Butlemut squ:lsh, diced Stock (recipe follows) ~ and pepper Ipin:lch, cleaned. stems removed 1!e311· cream
lib. 1 ql.
Pn'llTl
IT I bunch
4 oz.
I medium 15 ml 15 ml 500 ml 500g
I 11 IT 1 bunch 120 ml
):Jute the onions in the oil and butter until translucent. Add the rice and IoIUte until the grains appear slightly clear. the squash and approximately half of the stock. Season with salt and pepper and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium low and sim1IIl'I, uncovered, for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add stock as needed tl ensure that the rice always remains just covered. II l1lenthe rice has absorbed most of the liquid and is just slightly al dente, !lir in the spinach and cream. Cook only until the risotto is creamy but not rxI thick . . ._~ "1,,, po< 12-07.. (350-g) serviog: Catories 310. Total fat 10 g. Saturatt-d fat 3 g. Cho10 mg. SodIum 9> mg. Tota l carboh)·dr.ues SO g. Proleln 5 g. Vitamin A 19'(l%, Vllamln
... '"
PRAWN SAUCE tftl: 4 SerVings
'Ju1kxs, sliced \l'geUble oil bna lomatocs, chopped llophenr Pr:Jwn Stock (recipe follows)
2 2 {Sp. 2 large 2 oz. I pI.
2 10ml 2 large 60 ml 500 ml Continued
,~
523
524 """ CHAPTER 19
4 oz. IT
Heavy cream
Salt and pepper
120ml IT
1. Saute the shallots in the oil until tender. Add the tomatoes and she!T}' at.: simmer for a few mintues to remove some of the moisture. 2. Add the prawn stock and simmer for 20 minutes or until reduced b)'!tI:. 3. Add the cream, adjust the seasonings and strain, pushing as much ci dr tomatoes and shallots as possible through the strainer with the bad: a ladle or large s{X)On. Keep the sauce warm fo r service. Approxima1e ''alues per 3-oz. (96..g) serving: Calories 140, Tmal fal 12 g, Sarurated rat' g. (Ws lerol 40 mg, Sodium 25 mg. TObl carbohydrates 5 g. Frolein ] So Vitamin A 4(M
PRAWN STOCK Yield: 1 1/2 qt.
0.5 It)
Pacific spot prawn shells and heads Vegetable oil
24 I Thsp.
24
Onion, diced
I medium
CarrQ{s, sliced Celery, diced Leek, sliced Garlic, minced Thyme stems Dry sherry Water, cold
2 2 stalks
1 medium 2 2 stalks 1 small
I small
15 m!
4
2 do\'es 4
2 oz. ! 1/2 qt.
60 ml 1.5 It
2 d oves
1. Place the shells, heads and oil in a large ovenproof skillet or roastingF and roast at 400°F (200QC) for 15 minutes, or until Ihe color changes. 2. Add the vegetables, garlic and thyme sIems and roaSI for 15 minUles.
3. Remove Ihe pan from the oven and deglaze with the sherry. Tt.1Il!I~ everything 10 a Slock pol and cover with water. 4. Bring 10 a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 45 minutes. Strain. Approximate values per 4-01.. (I21 -g) serving: Calories 93, Total fat 3 g. Satut;lte(! fat S g. lerot 0 mg, Sodium 50 mg, Total carbo hydrates 11 g, Prote in I g, Vitamin A 128%
a.
============= ~ =========== RECIPE 19.38
FRESH
WA11iR
SHRlMP
WRAPPED IN POTATO MANGO RESTAURANT, ClII~GO, It Cbe!Stevell Chiappetli
Yield: 2 servings Fresh water shrimp, jumbo Potato, large Garlic clove, minced Spinach, cleaned Soy sauce Brown sugar Wasabi powder
2
2
1 bunch 2Thsp. IThsp. 4 Thsp.
I bunch 30 ml I; ml
60 m]
FISH AND SHEllFISH ~
1 Thsp.
15 ml
2 oz.
60 ml
the shrimp, leaving the tail attached. Cut the potato into thin threads wrap the threads tightly around the shrimp, covering them completely. I•• '''''' pan, cook the garlic until golden brown. Add the spinach and until tender. small pan, mix the soy sauce with the brown sugar, place on the stove 011 reduce by half. the wasabi powder with the warm water until smooth. corn oil in :I sh:lllow p:m and heat. When the oil is hot, carefull y the shrimp in the oil and cook until golden brown. the sauteed spinach in a tight circle on each plate and drizzle with
., ",.bl
the soy sauce reduction and place on top of the <-alues per serving: Calorlt'!$ 490, Tow fat 28 g, Sarunted fat 4 g. Cho lesterol 165 1250 mg. Total carboh)"dntes 36 g, Protcln 22 g, Vitamin A 25%, Vttamln C 4S%,
~======== ~ ============ RECIPE 19.39
SPICY
CAlAMARJ
SAlAD
THE BAMBOO CLliB, Pnor...,.tx, AZ BennJPClxm, President
: 4 6-oz (ISO-g) Servings ~ cleaned and cut into rings Marinade: Lemon juice Red wine vinegar Garlic powder ltd bell pepper, sliced thin bell pepper, sliced thin sliced
Method: Deep-Frying 1 lb.
450 g
4 oz. 1 pt. ] lbsp. 3 oz. 3 oz. 12 oz. 1 Thsp. 1 Thsp. 4 Thsp.
120 ml 450 ml 15 mI 90g 90g 350 g 15 mI 15 ml 60ml
IT
IT
607..
170g 22 ml 22 mI 8 oz. 250 g as needed for garnish 1 l/2lbsp. 1 l/2lbsp.
bon lettuce, torn into small pieces msh cilantro or Italian parsley
Marinate the sqUid in the lemon juice, vinegar and garlic powder for 3 oia)' Saute the peppers and mushrooms in the butter. Add the garlic, oyster auce and chile peppers. Set aside. Continued
525
526 '""" CHAP'IlJR 19 j. Drain the squid, pressing OUi as much liquid as possible. Combine flour, baking powder and cornstarch; lOSS with the squid lIntil
dr
m
coated. 4. Deep-fry the squid al 350°F (180°C) until crispy and golden brown. DDi and toss with the peppers and mushrooms. Serve on a bed of lelluce, p" nished with cilantro or Italian parsley.
&t .
Approximate values per &oz. O:ro.g) i\ef\~ng: Calo ries 4so, Total rat 13 g. 5,aturat(d J.~ lesterol 305 mg. Sodium 720 mg. Total carbohydralCII 55 g, Protein ~ g, Vitamin A 2Q'W" \W C 100%, Calci um 35%
============ ~ ===========I RECIPE 19.40
SOFTSIlEU CRAB PO' BOY SANDWICH P.IOENIX BRI:"WING CO., ATlA'1'A, GA Executive Coo/Kevin Fonzo
Yield: 6 Sandwiches Soft shell CI
Flour Egg wash Creole Remoulade Sauce (recipe follows) Mini-baguettes, sliced in half and loasted
6
6
IT IT as needed for breading as needed for breading as needed for breading 1 1/2 pc
72IJmI
6 3 pc
6
Lettuce, shredded Tomato slices
18
18
480 mI
1. Season the crabs with s.'llt and pepper. Bread each crab using the ~
breading procedure as described in Chapter 21 , Deep Frying. 2. Using the basket method, deep-fry the crabs uOlil done.
3. Spread the Creole RemOlllade Sallce evenly over the baguettes, 4. Divide the shredded lettuce over (he bottoms of the baguettes, then kf with the tomato slices, crab and the top of the baguettes. Sen'e ,. sauteed potatoes or potato salad. Approximate Y;Ilues per ~ ndwich : Calories 530. Tow fat 21 g, SalUratcd fat 5 g. ChoIetttd till Sodium 1440 mg, Total carboh ydrate> 66 g, Protein 18 g, \ 'ilamin A 2(1%, Vitamin C ~
CREOLE RtMOULADE SAUCE Yield: 1 1/2 pt. (720 m]) Fresh lemon juice Yellow onion, diced fine Green onion, diced fin e Celery, diced fine Garlic, chopped Grain mustard Ketchup Olive oil
4 oz. I c. I c. 1/2 c. Ilbsp. 6 oz. 3 oz. 3 oz.
120 ml 250 ml 250 ml 125 ml 30 ml 180 g 90g 90 ml
FISH AND SHEllFISH
2 tsp. 112 tsp. 112 ISp. 113 c.
10 ml 3ml 3ml 85 ml
large mixing bowl, combine the lemon juice, yellow onion, green celery, garlic, mustard and ketchup. Mix well. Incorporate the oil into the ffiixlU re while whipping. Season with cayenne and black pepper. Stir in the parsley.
2
,":\:::";:OI-oZ. (3O.g) sefving: calories 4S. Total fat 4 g, Saturated fal 0 g. Chole!!III mg, Toul carbohydralcs 3 g, Protein 0 g, Vitamin C lem
~======== ~ ============ RECIPE 19.4 1
CRAB MEAT FUN W111I
RED
PEPPER COUUS AND CHIVES
THE WHITE HOUSE, WASlIL'i6TOS, DC E.,·/Xuliw Sous Coo/101m Moeller
Method: Baking
1ickI: 6Servings Lump crab meat ltil chives, chopped sa and white pepper
8 oz. 1 bunch
250 g 1 bunch
IT
IT
f!8s
5
Heavy cream limy 'I'OOle butler, melted I!curre Blanc (Recipe 10. 16) kd Pepper Coulis (Recipe 10.17) Fresh chives Cr.iar or lumpflsh roe
5 500 ml 30ml 10z. as needed as needed 560 ml 18 oz. 3 oz. 90ml 12 stems 12 stems as needed for garnish 1 pt.
the crab meat and lOSS with the chopped chives. Season with salt IKI white pepper. Ilea the eggs together lightly and add the cream. Add the sherry and the mb meat mixture. Adjust the seasonings. six ramekins with melted butter and fill with Ihe nan mixture. place !be rnmekins in a water bath and bake at 350°F (IBO"C) until set, approxImte~ 45-50 minutes. Pool the Beurre Blanc on six serving plates. Unmold the nans and place in !be cemer of each plate. Decorate the plates with the Red Pepper Coulis aOO garnish with the chive stems and caviar.
1=::
:'~ po."T S<.'1Ving: calories 460, Total fat 43 g, Satunnoo fat 25 g, Cholcsterol 3')0 mg, Total carbo h)'drates 4 g, Pl"oteln 14 g, Vltantln A SO%, Vitamin C 15%
c"Ia.
527
528 "'" CJW'JFR 19 ============= ~ ========== RECIPE 19.42
THAI CRAB CAKE ~lYlNG
fiSH,
S~rru:,
WA
Cbe/Owner Christine KeJJ Yield: 4 Servings
Crab meat Panko Oapanese bread crumbs) Lemon Grass Mayonnaise (recipe follo ws)
2 c. 2 c.
500ml SOOml
4
250 ml 4
Mint, chopped fine
2lbsp. 21bsp. 2 Thsp.
J
Fish sauce
IT
IT
Mixed baby greens
as needed for garnish as needed for garnish
1c
Green onions, chopped fine Basil, chopped fine Cilantro, chopped fine
Orange supremcs Lemon Grass Mayonnaise
as needed for garnish
1. Gently stir together the crab meat, panko, Lemon Grass Mayonnaise, Ft!I onions, herbs and fi sh sauce. Divide into 4 ponions and fann into akts. 2. Saute each cake for 3 minUies On each side over medium heal, until brown. 3. Serve on a plale garnished with baby greens, orange supremes and m
tional Lemon Grass Mayonnaise. ApproxilmlC values per &.oz. (l75-g) serving: CaloriC5 S44, Total fal 31 So Saturated r:ll 6 !esterol 124 mg, Sodium 1006 mg, Total carbohrdrate$ 45 g. Proedn 21 g
LEMON GRASS MAYONNAISE Yield: 1 pt. (450 ml)
Egg yolks Rice wine vinegar Mirin Soy sauce Fish sauce Lemon Grass Oil (recipe follows)
2
2
1 !/2lbsp. 1 lbsp. I tsp. I tsp. 1 1/4 c.
23 mJ IS ml
SmJ S ml 300ml
1. Place all the ingredients except the Lemon Grass Oil into a food or blender and process for 30 seconds or until well blended. 2. With the processor running, drizzle in the oil to foml an emulsion. Approximate vatues per l-oz. (3O.g) serving: Calories 146, TolaJ fat 15 g, Satun.ted f.al 3 Sterol 33 mg. Sodium In mg, Toul carbohydrates 2 g. Proeein I g
LE~ION
GRASS OIL
Yield: iO oz. (300 ml)
Fresh ginger 1'OOl, sliced thin Lemon grass, chopped PeanUloil
1/4 c. 1/ 4 c. 10 oz.
60mJ 60mJ 300 mJ
FISH AND SIIF.I.lFISH ~
Ib:e all the ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over '" heat. Simmer for; minutes. kino'.e from the heat and allow the flavored oil (0 stand overnight at ron tempernture. Strain before using.
".., per
~_ I-i>L (zs.g) serving: Calories 186. Tow fal 21 g, SaIUr.Il00 fal 4 g, COOIesSodium 0 So Total carbohydrales I g, Protein 0 g
F===== """"' ====== RECIPE 19.43
GRlUED LOBSTER WIlli YEUOW HOT CHILES CHIPOTLE PASTA WITH CHIPOTLE BEURRE BlANC VINCENT ON CAMBEI.BACK, PIIOENIX, AZ Coo/ Vincent Glleri/lxllllt
Method: Grilling
fltld: oj Servings tOOster.;, I lb. (4;0 g) each 0Ir.-e oil ldlow hot chile peppers, roasted, peeled and seeded 9t3I1ots, peeled and chopped Orr white wine Ib\)' cream rnsaked buner Fn:sh basil. chopped frNllemon Sd: and pepper OUrooe Pasla (recipe follows) Oup;xle Beurre Blanc (recipe follows)
4 as needed
4 as needed
8 2 Soz. 4 oz. I tsp. 1 tsp.
8 2 2;0 ml
120 ml 5m!
1/4
5 ml 1/ 4
IT
IT
as needed as needed
as needed as needed
Cut each lobster in half lengthwise and remove the stomach, tomalley and
ro"l Brush the lobster meat with olive oil and grill over a very hot fire, meat side down, for approximately 7-8 minutes. Turn and grill for 5 minutes Pm. Crack the claws and set aSide. To make the sauce, combine 4 chopped yellow hot chiles, the shallots and 1iIewhite wine. Bring to a boil and reduce au sec. Add the cream and simIIl'I' for approximately 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and monte au ~rre. Strain, add the basil and the juice from 1/4 lemon and season to tNt' with salt and pepper. the sauce over the lobster and garnish with the remaining yellow dn1e peppers. Serve with Chipotle Pasta and Chipotle Beurre Blanc.
I
~::, ;,-~::per seT\'ing:
Calories 1640, Total fat 106 So Saturated fat 56 g, Choleslerol 670 lola! carbohydrate!! 66 g. Prolein 105 g. Vitamin A I~ Vitamin C SO%,
CIllPOTI.E PASTA rrkl: 4 6-<Jz. (lSO-g) (cooked weight) Servings
AII-j:tIrpose flou r OUpotle chile puree
10 oz. 2 lbsp.
300 g 30 ml Co nlill ued
529
I
530
~,
CHAPTER 19
Eggs, extra large Olive oil Salt Fresh cilantro, chopped
2 2 !Sp.
2
IT
IT
as needed
as needed
10 rnl
1. Combine the flour with the chipotle puree in a f<XXi processor: add !be eggs and mix.
] . Add the olive oil and salt, then process until the mixture forms a small III around the blade. It may be necessary to add a few drops of water. 3. Run the dough through a pasta machine until it reaches the desired mm. ness, then cut. Hang the cut pasta on a rack to dry. 4. When ready 10 serve, cook the dried pasta in boiling salted water for 2P' proximately 15 seconds; drain. Add salt \0 taste and lOSS with Chip!Xle Beurre Blanc. 5. Garnish with chopped cilantro and serve hOt. Approximate '"alues per 6-o.z. 007·g) 5ef\'ing: Calories :i10, Tow 1:11 5 g. S:otur.ued &1 1 S. Chab terot \05 mg, Sodium 640 mg, Total carbohydrates 55 g, Prolein II g, VIUmin A 6%, troa ~
CHIPOTLl! BEURRE BLANC Yield: 4 4-oz. (120-g) servings White wine White wine vinegar Shallots, chopped Heavy cream Unsalted buner, softened Chipotle chile, pickled Salt and pepper
B oz. B-oz. I Thsp. Ilbsp. lib. I Thsp.
250 rul 250 ml
IT
IT
15 rul 15 rul 4;0 g
15 rul
1. Combine the wine, vinegar and shallots in a skillet and reduce au sec. 2. Whisk in the cream and slowly add the soflCned bUller, 2 ounces (
grams) at a time, whisking constantly.
3. Puree the chile and add it to the sauce. Season to taste with salt. pepper. Approxim3lc values per 4-oz. (146-g) serving: Calories 8SC1, Total fat 93 g, Saturated fat 58 g. Qt. lesterol 2SO mg, Sodium 610 mg, Total carbohydrates 2 g, Protein I g, VItamin A 901'
~ =======I RECIPE , 19.44
LOBSTER A L'AAtEmCAINE Yield : 4 4-5 oz. (120- 130 g) Lobster and 4-oz. (120-g) Sauce Servings Lobsters, I lb. 12 oz. (750 g) each Clarified butler Shallots, chopped GarliC, chopped Brandy Dry white wine Fish stock Tomato concassee
Method: Sauteing
2 2 oz. 1 oz. IISp. 4 oz. Boz. 16 oz. B oz.
2
60 ml 109 5 ml 120 mI 250 ml 450 ml 2;0 g
FfS" AND SIIEilFf5H
Sachet; Bay leaf Dry thyme Peppercorns, cracked Parsley sterns Cayenne Heavy cream, hot Whole butter, softened Sail and pepper
1/2 tsp. 1/2 tsp.
2 Illi 2 ml
6
6
IT
IT 250 ml
8 oz. 2 oz. IT
60g IT
I. Cut the lobster for sauteing. Reserve the tomalley and coral if present.
30 seconds. j. Add the shallolS and garlic 10 the pan and saute for 30 seconds more. t Remove the pan from the stove and add the brandy. Return the pan to the name, ignite the brandy and allow it to burn for II few seconds. Add the \\'hite wine, fish stock, tomato cooC'JS-See, sachet and cayenne. j. Sunmer for 5 minutes. Remove the lobster from the sauce. Remove the meat from the shells and reserve. Return the shells to the sauce. , Add the cream to the sauce. Bring 10 a boil and reduce by half. ". Strain the 5.1Uce. Return to a simmer and thicken with beurre manie if l He:ll the clarified butter and Saute the lobster pieces for
netded. 8. Combine the whole butter with the reserved tomalley and coral and blend
well. Monter au beurre with the tomalley and coral butter. Adjust the sell~mings and serve the sauce over the lobster meat. ' ~te '"Jlues per serving: Caloria 780. Total fat 47 g, Satunt('d fat Z8 g, Cholesterol 410 mg, !odium 2340 mg, TOial carbo hydnta! 9 g, ProteIn 80 g, Vitamin A 70%, Calcium 30%
============ ~ ============= RECIPE 19.4 5
SKlIlET OF LOBSTER AND M USHROOMS PROVEN(:ALE RlVERIA RESTAURANT, All.-\'\'TA, GA
ChefJack Shoop, Ql/e rK'ki: 4 Se"'ings
Olil'e oil Shallots, minced OIamerelJe mushrooms, sliced ~i!ake mushrooms, sliced Oyster mushrooms, sliced GarliC, minced TOI11:lto concassee \laine lobster tail meat, large dice Dry white wine Oiervil, chopped Tarragon, chopped Sea salt Pepper
2 Thsp. I Thsp. 4 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz. I d ove 8 oz.
30 ml
12 oz. 21bsp.
360g
2 Thsp. 21bsp. IT IT
15 Illi 120 g 120 g 120 g 1 dove 250 g
30ml 30ml 30ml IT IT Comilllled
"1a,
531
532 "'"
CIIAPl'ER 19
1. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan; add the shaliOls and cook f« minute.
2. Add the mushrooms and saute until tender, approximately 5 minutes. 3. Add the garlic and tomatoes and saute for 2 minutes.
4. Add the lobster and white wine and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or lobster is cooked. 5. Add the herbs and season to taste with salt and pepper. 6. Spoon the mushrooms and lobster into individual sen'ing-sized alooe,,~ leiS and serve inunediately. Approxim.ue val~ per 6-oz. (18~g) ser.'ng: Calories 270, Total fal 16 g. Saturaffd fit Cholesterol 130 mg, Sodium 200 mg, Tow carbohydrates 13 g. Protein 18 g, \~11miI A Iron 1;%
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 19.46
CRAYFISH ETOUFFEE Yield: 4 Servings Com oil Flour
Onion, chopped fine Celery, chopped fine
4 oz. 4 oz. 1 large
1 stalk 1/2
120 mI 120 g I large 1 stalk 1/2 3 cloves
Green bell pepper, chopped Garlic, minced
_~
Shrimp broth or clam juice
1 1/4 pI.
600mi
Lemon juice
1 Thsp. 2 oz. 1 (Sp. 1/2 tsp. 1/2 tsp. 1/2 ~p. I 1 Thsp. I lb. 2
15 ml 60g
Crayfish fat (optional) Salt Cayenne
Black pepper Dried thyme
Bay leaf Louisiana hot sauce Crayfish tails, frozen Green onions, sliced White rice, cooked
cloves
1 qL
;mI 3m1 3m1 3m1 I 15 ml 4;0 g 2 1 It.
1. Heat the oil in a large saute pan. Whisk in the flour and cook, SliOM8" stantly, to make a medium dark roux. 2. Add the onion, celery, green bell pepper and garlic and saute over low heat until the vegetables are tender, approximately 10 minutes. j. Slowly add the shrimp broth or clam juice and bring to a Ix>il. heat to a simmer and add the lemon juice, crayfish fat and the mer for 15 minutes to thicken. 4, Add the hot sauce and the crayfish tails and simmer for 'Pl"o,irnalely I minutes. Add the green onions and adjust the seasonings. cooked rice. ApPI'Q)[imate values per 5elVing: Calories 8!K), Total bt j 2 g, Saturated r.. . . Ch<, ...... ~, Sodium 1190 mg, Total carbohydrates 107 g, Proteln 40 g, Vitamin A d um 45%. Iron 90%
FISH AND SHFlLFISH
=========== ~ ============
RECIPE 19.47
SEVlCHE /11 a sevicbe, lhe fish alld shellfish (Ire "cooked" by the acids ill the cftnlS filice. A//bough a variety of fisb or sbellfish may be used, it is extremely importalll thai the products be (Ibsoluteiy fresh . Use a nonreactive cOl/tainer SIlcb as stainless steel or plastic for mixillg or storing the Si!lJicbe. Aluminum and other metals may react with the acids ill the lime juice, givillg the food a metallic flavor.
' kid, 3 lb. (1.4 kg) Raw scallops amVor shrimp Raw firm white fish Fresh lime juice Serrano pepper, minced Red onion, fine dice Fresh cilantro, minced Oheoil Tomato concassee Garlic, chopped Salt and pepper
lib. I lb. S oz. 4 6 oz. 4 Thsp. 2 Thsp. Soz. 2 (Sp.
450 g 450 g 240 ml 4 170 g 60 ml 30 ml 250 g 10m!
IT
IT
L Chop me scallops, shrimp and fish coarsely but evenly. Place in a nonre-
actj\'e container and add the lime' juice. Cover and marinate in the refriger.110r for 4 hours. The fish should turn opaque and become finn. l. Toss in the remaining ingredients and season to taste with salt and pepper. Chill thoroughly and serve as a salad or with tortilla chips. j If the $Cviche is going to be held for more than 2 hours, drain the liquid and refrigerate separately. The reselVcd liquid can then be tossed with the other ingredients at service time . .\;Ipro1lm:!le va!Ue$ per 4-(1z. (!20-g) .serving: Calorle5 120. Total fat 4.5 g, Saturatm fat .5 g, Cho~ 30 mg, Sodium 250 mg, To tal carbohr drates 5 g, Protein 13 g, Vitamin A 10*1, Vitamin ( NIl, C1ainu--low saturated f3t
("'0.,
533
,
HAPTER
20
--
/ ,
Pboe"I.,· Brelt'ltlg CQ. , A/lim"" G,I 1J:'(ee/lII/!l~ Chef Kel'/" FOllzo
=== ~ ===
After studying thiS chapler, you will be able to: r"\!\.. <"'\!\.,
understand the composition of eggs purchase lind store eggs prop-
erly C"'a.
apply various cooking methods eggs
10
atllre designed eggs as thefood S~;:'~:;~:;e~'~;~ chicks. Eggs, partiClllarly chicken eggs, are also all humans because of their high protein content, low cost and availability. 77Jey are extreme~y versatile and are used 1/ kitchell, eitber selved alone or as ingredients il1 a prepared dish. are used to provide texture, jlav01; structl.lre, moist/Ire and ill everytbingfrom soups C111d sal/ces to breads and pastries. High quality and freshness are critical for their proper use. to select tbe fl11est products, and bandle tbem witb care.
Composition == ~ == NOT J l1ST CIIICKENS
When m05t people refer to an "egg," they mean a chicken's egg. Bul other egso; are sometimes used in the kitchen: Bantam egg: The egg from a breed of small chicken; it is abom half the size of a regular chicken egg and has the same characteristics. Duck egg: It has an off-white shell and a richer flavor and higher fat content than a chicken's egg; \!oneil boiled, the while turns bluish and the yolk turns red-orange. Goose egg: White-shelled, il is four to tire lime; larger than a chicken egg and has a somewhat richer I1m'or, Guinea fowl egg: An egg with an iVOI)' shell flecked Wilh b['()ll.11: it has a more delicate flavor than that 01 a chicken egg. Gull egg: Its shell is COYered \lith light to dart brOlf,1l blotchel: and comes in various small sizes; the egg has a slightly fishy flavor. Ostrich egg: Th'enty times as large as a chicken egg, its shell is thick and iI"Ol'yoolored. Partridge egg: Asmall egg with a llihite, buff or oJire shell and a mild f1al"()l'. Quail egg: A richl), f1al'{lred egg, it is small with a spe<:kled bl"O\\-l1 shell. Thrker egg: A large egg with a brown shell and a delicate flal"or. ThrUe egg: A reptile's egg with a mild, rich flamr; its soft shell is buff or speckled.
The primal)' pans of an egg are the sheiJ, }rolk and albumen. See Figure The sheD, composed of calcium carbonate, is the outermOSt egg. It prevents microbes from entering and moisture from protects the egg during handling and transpon. Shell color is tbe breed of the hen; for chickens, it can range from bright while to Shell color has no effect on quality, flavor or nlllrition. The yolk is the yellow ponion of the egg. It constitutes JUSt over of the egg and contains three fOllnhs of the calories, most of th"o::;:~~ vitamins and all the fat. The yolk also conlains lecithin, the " sponsible for emulsification in products such as hollandaise sauce and onnaise. Egg yolk solidifies (coagulates) at lemperatures between 158°F (65°C_70°C). Although the color of a yolk may val)' depending hen's feed, color does not affect quality or nLllritional content. The albumen is the clear ponion of the egg and is often referred egg white. It constitutes about (wo thirds of the egg and contains half of the protein and riboflavin. Egg white coagulates, becoming opaque, at temperatures between 144°F and 149°F (62°C-65°C). An often misunderstood portion of the egg is the chalazae cords thick, twisted strands of egg white anchor the yolk in place. They are
Shell
While
1:.."'" -11-- Air cd)
FIGURE 20.1
All Egg
BGGS '"""
"'" "'" EggSizes
0000 Medium
I~1f"'tk;'"! nor embryos. TIle morc prominent the chalazae, the fresher the
ChaJaZ.:le do not interfere with cooking or with whipping egg whites. are sold in jumbo, extra large, large, medium, small and peewee sizes, .doenm;;ned by weight per dozen. See Figure 20.2. Food service oper.nions fIletllly use large eggs,
figs are graded by the USDA or a state agency following USDA guidelines. De grade AA, A or B is given an egg based upon interior and exterior qualtr,notsize. The qualities for each grade are described in Table 20.1. Grade ~ 00 effect on nutritional values.
fa quality is quickly diminished by improper handling. Eggs should be stored llemperatures below 40"F (4°C) and at a relative humidity of 70 to 80%. Eggs ige more during one day at room temperature than they will during one Ret under proper refrigenuion. As eggs age, the white becomes thinner and *'yolk becomes flatter. Although this will change the appearance of poached «fried eggs, age has liule effect on nutrition or behavior during cooking pro«
ITlBl' 20.1
,n-,
EGG GRADES
Grnde AA
Grade A
Grade B Spreads over wide area
~
Remains compact
SprC'J.ds slightly
~
Clear, thick and finn; prominent cha13z;lC
Clear and reasonably Clear; weak or watery firm; prominent
chalazae Firm; centered; stands Firm; stands fa irly round and high; free high; practically free from defeCtS from defects Clean; of nonnal shape; unbroken
Enlarged and flattened;
may show slight defects Slight stains pennissible; abnonnal shape; unbroken
Any use, especially frying, poaching and
Baking, scrambling, used
cooking in shell
in bulk egg products
~ rd'ers to the
appear:mce of the egg when first broken onto a nat surface.
Grade II
537
538
C~20
Canons of fresh , uncooked eggs will keep for at least four 10 five weeks ~ yond the pack date if properly refrigerated. Hard-cooked eggs left in !htr shells and refrigerated should be used within one week. Store eggs away from strongly navored foods to reduce odor absorplion
Rotate egg stock 10 maintain freshness. Do not use diny, cl"Jcked or brokm eggs as they may contain bacteria or other contaminants. Frozen eggs.should be thawed in the refrigerator and used only in dishes that will be thoroughlr cooked, such as baked produclS.
Sanitation
Pasteurization
lbe process oj bet/ling sollie·
Ibillgla a arkl in lempera/llre/or a f{)eCIfic pe-
riod ill order 10 destroy pathogenic bacJerla.
Eggs arc a potentially hazardous food. Rich in protein, they are an exrelleo: breeding ground for bacteria. Salmonella is of panicular concern with eggs ani egg products because this b'Jcteria is commonly fou nd in a chicken's intestinal tr3C1. Although shells are clea ned at p:lcking houses, some b:lcteria may reman Therefore, to prevent cont3mination , it is best to 3void mixing a shell with tIr liquid egg. Inadequately cooking or improperly storing eggs may lead to food-borrc illnesses. USDA guidelines indicate that pasteurization is achie\'ed when tIr whole egg stays at a temper3ture of 140"F (60 C) for 3.5 minutes. Hold ea dishes below 40"F (4"C) or above 14;oF (63"C). Never leave an egg ch;h I room temper3ture for more than one hour, including preparalion and sef\U time. Never reuse a container after it has held r3W eggs without thorougljr cleaning and sanitizing it. Q
Egg Products FO<XI service operations often want the convenience of buying eggs out rl the shell in the exact form needed: whole eggs, yolks only or whites cdr. These processed items are called egg products and are subjcct to strict PI' tcurization standards and USDA inspections. Egg products can be frozen. fro frigerated or dried. Precooked, preponioned and blended cgg products at also available.
Egg Substitutes Concerns about the cholesterol content of eggs have increased the popularly of egg substitutes. There arc two general types of substitute. TI1C first is acat plcte substitute made from soy or milk proteins. It should not be used. recipes where eggs are rC
Nutrition Eggs contain vitamins A, 0 , E, K and the B-complcx vitamins. They are rrlI minerals and do not cont:tin as much cholesterol as was once feared. In fld, the Americ3n liean Association now suggests that it is acccptable to rollSlllr up to four egg yolks per week as part of a balanced diet. The nutritionallj ues of eggs as well as an egg substitute are listed in Table 20.2.
EGGS ~,
.h>
NUTRITIONAL VALUES Of EGGS Protein (g)
Carbohydrates
Toml Fat
5.1tur:Ued Fat
(g)
(g)
(g)
75 59 16
6.)
0.6 0.3 0.3
5 5 0
1.6 1.6 0
213
25
5
0
0
0
Calories
egg. one 1.-5 ounces (53 in)n
539
g)
one b.rge egg one brge egg (Egg Beaters),
" I
rup (equivalent to one large egg)
2.8
3.5
Cholesterol (mg)
213 0
SI!1::rr Ellcyc/opedia oj F(}()(/Iailles 1992
EGG WHITES .m-., f#lIihitcs are often whipped into a foam Ihal is then incorporated into cakes, • ,_b. souffles, p:ancakes and other products. TIle air beaten into the egg
gil'es products lightness and assists with leavening.
ImOCRE FOR WIIIPPING EGG WIIlTES
, r:il' fresh egg whites that ,Ire completely free of egg yolk and other nnpurities. Warm the egg whites 10 room temperature before whipping; this
helps a bener foam
10
form.
1 be 3 clean bowl and whisk. Even a tiny amount of fat can prevent the egg
'niles from foaming properly. l 1'hipthe whiles until very foamy , then add salt or cream oflanar as dirt.'Cted. ~ Continue whipping until soft peaks form , then gradually add granulated "Jg;tr as directed. 1 'lhip until stiff peaks fonn. Properly whipped egg whiles should be moist JOO shiny; overwhipping will make the egg whites appear dry and spongy IX curdled.
, r~ the whipped egg whites immediately.
If liquid begins to separate from thr whipped egg whites, discard them; they cannot be rewhipped ~'ifull}'.
fM whites whipped to soft peaks.
Egg whites whipped to stiff peaks.
Spongy, overwhip(XXI egg whites.
540
CHAP'l'h'R 20
APPlYING VARious COOKING METHODS No other food is as popular for breakfast, or as \'ersalile, as the egg. Erg" be cooked by almost any method and served with a wide array of seasonin accompaniments and garnishes. Wh:lIever cooking method is selected. he to prepare the eggs carefully: Overcooked eggs and those cooked at \00 a temperature wi!! be tough and rubbery. Undercooked eggs may trw pathogenic baderia and pose a risk of food-borne illness. The following cooking methods are those most often used for egg./»,< dishes. They include dry-heat cooking methods (baking, sauteing and p.1 frying) and moist-heal cooking melhods On-shell cooking and poachingl
DRy-HEAT COOKING METHODS .n-, Baking Sbirred Eggs Baked eggs, also referred to as shirred eggs, are normally prepared in indio ual ramekins or baking dishes. The ramekins can be lined or paniall~' with ingredients such as bread, ham, creamed spinach or artichokes. The are often topped with grated cheese, fresh herbs or a sauce. When propt" cooked, the egg whites should be set while the }'olks are soft and cre.ut'
PROCEDURE FOR PREI'ARlNG SlURRED EGGS I . Coat each ramekin with melted bUller. Add fla \'oring ingredients as cbil 2. Break one or two eggs inlO each ramekin. Do nm break the yolks. ~ with salt and pepper. 3. B.ake the eggs until the white is firm, approximately 12-15 minutes. Approximately 3-5 minutes before the eggS:lre done, add cream or top eggs with grated cheese, diced ham, fresh herbs or other ingredicn!) 3.\ desired.
"'V'r> = = = = = =
I . Adding the eggs to the r.lmekin
RECIPE 20. 1
on top of the ham.
SHIRRED EGGS wlm HAM Yield: I SelVing Whole butler, melted Baked ham, sliced thin
Eggs
2
as needed 15 g 2
Salt and pepper Heavy cream, hot Swiss cheese, grated
1T
1T
I "Ibsp.
151111 15 ml
as needed
112 oz.
Ilbsp.
1. Brush the interior of a 6-ounce (ISO-milliliter) ramekin wilh melted b:
2. The finished shirred eggs with ham.
Line Ihe ramekin with the ham. 2. Break the eggs into a cup and pour them carefully into the ramekin!XI of the ham. Season wilh salt and pepper.
EGGS ~.
Bake at 325°F (J60o C) until the eggs begin to set, approximately 8-10 minIlleS. Remove from the oven, add the cream and grated cheese. Rerurn to !he ()\'en until the eggs are cooked and the cheese is melted. Serve immediately. . .~.,~"~ per serving: CaIoric5 280, Total f.u 22 g, Satur:a~ fat 10 So Cholesluo1 470 mg. }:Xl mg, Total carboh r drate5 2 g. PrOieln 17 g, Vitamin A 30%
is a classic breakfast and brunch entree. It consists of an egg custard "", ""m or milk and seasonings) and fillings baked in a crust 6J1ing usually includes at least one type of cheese and can also include 11)' ,oomo., of other ingredienlS such as cooked, diced meats (for example, crumbled bacon, ham, fish or shellfish) or blanched vegetables (for mushrooms, sauteed onions, asparagus or broccoli). The navor and of these ingredients should complement one another without overthe delicate egg custard. Quiche is a good way of using leftovers, ing"eJi"n~ should still be fresh and of good quality, The crust may be made with whole wheat flour, cornmeal or other grains for flavor and texture. A recipe for quiche dough is given at Recipe 32. 1S.
ImDIJRE FOR PREPARL'G QUlCllE
Prepare and bake a pie shell. Prepare the garnishes and flavoring ingredients and add them to the pie !hell, Prepare a custard and add it to the pie shell. Ratios of eggs to milk or heavy cream vary depending on the specific recipe, but 6-8 eggs 10 1 quan (] liter) of liquid is usually sufficient to bind the custard. Bake the quiche until set; allow it to cool slightly before cUlling.
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 20.2
Q UICHE LORRAINE yl(ld: 1 l()..in. (25-cm) Quiche
Pie sheH, l()..in. (2S-cm) diameter,
baked Bacon, diced and cooked S~iss or Gruyere cheese, shredded Eggs Milk Heavy cream Salt and pepper '\itmeg
I
4 oz.
120 g
2 oz.
60g
4
4
1 pI. 4 oz. TI TI
450 mI 120 ml TI TI
Pbce the bacon and shredded cheese in the baked pie shell. To make the custard, combine the eggs, milk and cream, and season with Mit, pepper and nutmeg. C011liIHIed
541
542
•
CIIAPl7iR 20
3. Pour lhe custard over the bacon and cheese and bake at 35O"F (lRJt, until the custard is cooked, approximately I hour. ApproxiOil le ,':,liues per ] 8-pie (1 30-8) ~r\'in8' Calories .HO, Toul fat 15 g. Sarunttd fill CholC:Sterol lOS mg. Sodium 420 mg. TObl carboh)'dr.alC:S 14 g. Protein 12 g. "lwni11.~ Calcium 15~
Sauteing Scrambled Eggs Scrambled eggs are eggs whisked with seasonings and then sauteed. 11le!' MI stirred nearly constantly during cooking. The finished eggs should be ligtuOiOO fluffy with a tender, creamy texture. A small amount of milk or cream rna) ~
added to the eggs to provide
:l
more delicate finished product. Overcooki!:,
or cooking at \00 high a temperature causes the eggs to become tough m; mbbery. Scrambled eggs are often flavored by sauteing other foods (for fxamr&onions, mushrooms or diced ham) in the plIO before adding the eggs IX adding orner foods (for example, grated cheeses or herbs) to the eggs itS ' fore cooking is complete. Suggest(.-d additions include finely diced ben ~ pers, onions, mushrooms, zucchini or tOmatoes; COttage cheese or any \~ of shredded firm cheese; cmmbled b:tcon; diced ham, turkey or beef: tn, smoked salmon, rooked shrimp or cooked sausage; and fresh herbs. Scrambled eggs can also be prepared using egg whites only. Bec:luse aD an egg's fat is stored in the yolk. no-yolk scrambled egg dishes are lowl'! fm, cholesterol and calories. \'<'ater o r nonfat milk can be used in pbct' . whole milk or cream to funher reduce the fat and calorie content of !he Iiished dish. Rememl~r that egg whites coagulate at a lower temperanw IhrI yolks, so adjust your cooking time and temperature accordingly.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING ScRAMBLED EGGS
1. Stirring the scmmbled eggs.
/ , Break the eggs into a mixing bowl. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Add 1 scant tablespoon (12 milliliters) of milk or cream per egg and whi.i everything together. 2, Heat a saute pan, add cla rified butter o r oil and heat until the fl!t begilblil sizzle. J, Saute any additional ingredients in Ihe hot fat. 4, Pour the eggs into the pan all at once. As the eggs begin to set, slowl)" the mixture with a spatula. Lift cooked panions to allow uncooked eggt flow underneath. 5, Sprinkle on additional ingredients such as cheese or herbs. 6: Cook just until the eggs are set, but still shiny and moist. Remove fTOOl lit pan and serve immediately,
RECIPE 20.3
SCRAMBLED EGGS Yield: 64-oz. (120-g) Servings
Eggs 2. The properly cooked eggs.
Heavy cream
12 2 oz.
12
60 ml
EGGS
i1h and pepper
IT 2 oz.
....
543
IT
I50ml
1 Combine the eggs, cream, salt and pepper in a mixing bowl. Whisk until
"dl blended. ! Hen Ihe clarified butler in a saute pan. SPoor !he egg mixlUre into the hOI pan and cook, stirring frequently, until ~, approximately 2 minutes. TIle eggs should be set, but still shiny and
....
\lIIIl3h' l"llues per 4-01 . (l20-g) .serving, Calorla 2;0. Toml fal 21 g. Saluralt'd fal 10 g, Ctm.. bIro/ .1&) mg, Sodium 210 I1Ig, TOial carlxlhyd rale5 I ~. Protei n 13 g. Vilamin A ,3(.l%
f>lttlelS ~kt:; ~
are needlessly intimidating egg creations Ihal begin as scrambled 1hey are usually prepared as individual servings using two or three eggs. cooked eggs are either folded around or filled with a warm savory mix-
1k filling may contain vegetables, cheeses and/or meats. Any filling ingremlt needs cooking should be cooked before being added to the omelet. '\'CI.u:;e the eggs cook relatively quickly. raw fillings would not be cooked ~)"
I . Lifting the edge of the eggs to
allow them to cook evenly.
until the eggs were overcooked.
fmlllllE FOR PREPARING FOlDED OMEL£TS
/. FuUr cook any meats and blanch or otherwise cook any vegelables that "ill be incorporated imo the omelet. l Ht"Jt an omelet pan over modenl1e1y high heat and add clarified bUller. S \fhi:ik the eggs together in a small bowl. Season with 5.1 lt and pepper if ~ired. ~
2. Adding the filling to the eggs.
Pour the eggs into the pan and slir unlil Ihey begin to set. approximately 10 seconds.
l Pun cooked egg from the sides of the pan toward the center, allowing raw run underneath. Continue doing so for 20-30 seconds. any fillings on tOP of the eggs or add any other garnishes. ". 'fIlen cooked as deSired, flip one side of the omelet toward the center with a spllllla or l shake of the pan. Slide the omelet 0010 the serving pillt' so thaI it lands folded in thirds with the scam underneath. & 'I[lOOn any sauce or additional filling on top, garnish as desired, and serve inml'diately. (
l'gg to ~poon
3. Folding the eggs. RECIPE 20A
SHRlAfP AND
Avocwo OMELET
Yield: I Serving
Wimp. peeled. deveincd and cut into pieces Green onion, sliced Cbrified butter
3 oz. I Thop.
figs
l
l oz.
90S 15 ml 30 ml l COil/iII/led
4. Holling the omelet ontO the plate.
544 '"""
CI/APTER 20
Salt and pepper
IT
IT
Avocado, peeled and diced
1/4 2lsp.
1/4 10 ml
Cilantro, chopped 1. SaUte
2. 3. 4. 1. Rolling the omelet onto the serving plate.
5.
the shrimp and onion in half of the buner for I minute. Remove from
the heat and set aside. Heat an omelet pan and add the remaining buller. Whisk the eggs together in a small bowl, season with salt and pepper 300 pour into the omelet pan. Stir the eggs as they cook. SlOp when they begin 10 set. Lift the edges II the omelet cooks to allow the raw eggs to run underneath. When the eggs are nearly set, add the shrimp filling , avocado and cilantro Fold the front of the eggs over and roll the omelet onto a plate.
Approximale values pcr serving; Calories 590, Total fat 47 g. Salurated fat 19 g. Cholesle1'Ol !lS) Sodium 620 mg, Total carbo hydrate!! 4 g. Prolein 39 g. Vllamin A 60%. Vitamin C ZO%. JI'OIl j
French-style omelets are similar, but the eggs are cooked without a M· ing, then tightly rolled onto a plate for service. The finished omelet can then be cut and filled as desired.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARL'G FRENCH-STYLE OMELETS 2. Using a paring knife to
CUI
the center of the omelet.
into 1. Heat an omelet pan over moderately high heat and add clarified bUl1(1. 2. Whisk the eggs together in a small bowL Season with salt and pepper if desired. 3. Pour the eggs into tbe pan and stir until Ihey begin to set, approximately 10 seconds. 4. Pull cooked egg from the sides of the pan toward the center, allowing rail egg 10 mn underneath. Continue doing so for 20-30 seconds. 5. Wben cooked as deSired, flip one side of the omelet toward the center with a spatula or a shake of the pan. Roll the omelet onto the sen'ing pbte so that it lands with the seam underneath.
Fritta/as 3. Spooning in the filling.
Frittatas are essentially open-faced omelets of Spanish-Italian heritage. 'fbeI may be cooked in small pans as individual portions or in large pans, then CII into wedges for service. A relatively large amount of hearty ingredients JIt' mixed directly into the eggs. TIle eggs are first cooked on the stove top. then the pan is transferred to an oven or placed under a salamander or broiler 10 fini sh cooking.
PROCEDURE FOR PRf<:PARlNG FRITI'ATAS 1. Fully cook any meats and blanch or otherwise prepare any vegetables that
4. The finished omelet.
will be incorporated into the friuata. 2. Heat a saute pan and add cla rified buner, 3. Whisk the eggs, flavorings and any other ingredients together; pour imo the pan.
EGGS
t Slir gently until the eggs begin 10 sel. Gently lift the cooked eggs at the edge of the frjulla so thai the raw eggs can nm underneath. Continue
cooking until the eggs are almost set. S Place the pan in a hot oven or underneath a salamander or broiler to fin ish cooking and lighlly brown the lOp. , Slide the finished frittata out of the pan onto a serving platter. ~ ==============
RECIPE 20.5
GARDEN FRl1TATA Ykld: 1 Serving
ClJicken breast, 4 oz. (120 g), boneless, skinless Garlic, chopped Cumin Salt and pepper )tU5hrooms, sliced
l'nsaJted butter Jalapeno, seeded, minced Red bell pepper, roasted, seeded, peeled, julienne Green onions, sliced Cilantro Eggs, beaten
1 (Sp. 1T 1T
2 oz. 31bsp.
5 m] 1T 1T
l iSp.
60g 45 g S ml
2 oz. 1 oz. l iSp. 2
60g 30 g 10 ml 2
2 oz.
60g
Monterey Jack or Cheddar cheese, shredded
I. Rub the chicken breast with the garlic, cumin, salt and pepper. Grill or broil the chicken until done. Allow it to rest briefl y, then cut it into strips. 1 In a well-seasoned 9-inch (23-centimelcr) saute pan, saute the mushrooms in the bUller until tender. Add the jalapeno and saute for 30 seconds. Add the chicken, roasted bell pepper, green onions and cilantro and saute until
00..
J Add
the eggs and season with salt and pepper. Cook the mixture, stirring and lifting the eggs to help them cook evenly, until they begin to sel. t Sprinkle the cheese o\'er the eggs and place under a salamander or broiler 10 melt the cheese and finish cooking the eggs. Slide the frillata OntO a plate or CUt into wedges for smaller portions.
Ifiprolima!C vatues per serving: calories t2\o. Total fat 72 g. Saturated fat 39 g, Choles terol 720 ... 5odlum 1630 mg, Total carbo hydrates 52 g. Protein 89 g, Vitamin A 440%, Vita min C 790*. Ctian 7(1l6, Iron 60%
Pall-Flying Pm-fried eggs are commonly referred to as sunny-side-up or over-easy, lI'a'·medium or over·hard. These are visibly different products produced Qh proper timing and technique. Very fresh eggs are best for pan·frying as WI'olk holds its shape bener and the while spreads less. ~nnr-sidc-up eggs are nO{ IUrned during cooking; their yellow yolks relain visible. TI1CY should be cooked over medium-low heal long enough (0
-.
545
546
CHAPTER 20
firm the whites and paniall}' fim] the yolks: approximately 4 minutes if ~ on a 2SQ"F (120"C) cooking surface. For -over" eggs. the egg is panially cooked on one side. then gertI flipped and cooked on the other side until done. TIle egg white should firm , and its edges should not be brown. The yolk should never be brokt1I regardless of the degree of doneness. Not only is 1I broken yolk unaUI3C\ilt the spilled yolk will coagul:ne on contact with the hot pan. making it cult to sen'e. For over. easy eggs, the }'olk should remain vel)' nmny; on a 25O"F ~ 1m., cooking surface, the egg should cook for about 3 minutes on the firs! side 2 minutes on the OIher. Eggs fried over-medium should be cooked 'iligJ; longer. until the yolk is panially set. For over-hard eggs, the yolk shoold completely cooked.
PROCEDURE FOR PAN-FRYING EGGS 1. Select a smite pan JUSt large enough to accommodate the number of
2.
3. 4.
5.
I . floming the eggs into the sallte
pan.
being cooked. (An 8. inch-
2. Flipping the eggs .
3. Sliding the eggs onto a plate h sen'ice.
Basted eggs are a variation of sunnY-Side-up eggs. !lasted eggs are ('(Mj o\'er [ow heal with the hOI butler from the p:m spooned over them as tb cook. Another version of basted eggs is made by adding 1-2 teasJXlOOS ISmilliliters) of water 10 the saute pan and then covering the pan. The'i! cooks the top of the eggs.
HGGS
JISf-f:IFAT COOKING METHODS
v
Cooking (Simmering) tliffmnce between soft-cooked eggs (also called soft-boiled) and hardeggs (a[so called hard-boiled) is time. Both styles refer to eggs in their shell in hot water. Despite the word boiled in their names, rooked in the shell should never be boiled. Boiling toughens eggs and discoloration. Instead, eggs should be simmered. Soft-cooked eggs arc
oullys;mrr,cr"d for 3-5 minutes; hard-cooked eggs may be simmered for as as 12-15 minutes. ~jmes it is difficul! to remove the shell from vel)' fresh eggs. Eggs that 2 fel\' dars old are bener (or cooking in the shell.
III000000JRE FOR PREPARING SoFf-CooKED EGGS
1 fill a saucepan or stock pot with sufficient water \0 cover the eggs. Bring the w3ter \0 a simmer. urefuUy lower each egg into the simmering water. Simmer uncovered for .Fi minutes, depending on the firmness desired.
lift each egg out of the water with a slotted spoon or spider. Crack the brge end of the shell carefully and serve immediately.
fIroDURE FOR PREPARL'G HARD-COOKED EGGS
kpe:lt Sleps I and 2 for soft-cooked eggs, Simmering the eggs for 12-15 nunutes. lift each egg out of the water \Vilh a slotted spoon or spider and place in an ice bath, When the eggs are cool enough to handle, peel them and usc as desired or cover and refrigeraJe for up to 5 days.
that are to be poached should always be very fresh. They should also be I'e!)' cold until used as cold egg whites stay together better when into hot water. Poached eggs should be soft and moist; the whites be fiml enough to encase lhe yolk completely, but the yolk should still chefs add salt to the poaching water for flavor; others believe that the
.. 'ou," the egg whites to separate. To help the egg whites cling together, 2tablesfXJOns (30 milliliters) of white vinegar per quart (liter) of watcr.
11llIDURE FOR POACHING EGGS
fdl a saucepan or stockpot with at least 3 inches (75 centimeters) of watcr. .\dd salt and vinegar if desired. Bring the water to a simmer and hold at a temperature of approximately 200"F (9Q°C). OnI.' at a time, crack the eggs into a small ramekin or cup. If a piece of shell falls into the egg, it should be removed; if the yolk breaks. the egg an be set aside for some other use.
....
547
548
,~
CIIAJYf'HR 20
J. Gently slide each egg into the simmering water and cook for 3-5 miml1t:\ 4. Lift the poached egg out of the water with a sloned spoon. Trim any ragged edges with a paring knife. SelVe immediately.
For quantity service, eggs can be poached in advance and held for up one day. To do so, cook the eggs as described. As each egg is remo\'ed fmo the hot water, set it in a hotel pan filled with ice water. TIlis stops the ing process. The eggs can be stored in the ice water until needed. For ba.ncp: sryle selVice, all the eggs can be reheated at once by placing the entire pan the stove top. Or the eggs can be reheated one or two at a time by J>bciI them in a pan of barely simmering water until they are hot.
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 20.6
POACHED EGGS Yield: I SelVing Water Salt Vinegar
Eggs
as needed I tsp. 2 Thsp. 2
as needed 5 ml 30 ml 2
1. Bring the water to a simmer; add the salt and vinegar. 2. Crack one egg into a cup and carefully add it to the water. Repeat with
other egg. 3. Cook the eggs to the desired doneness, approximately 3-5 minutes. move them from the water with a sloned spoon and serve as desired carefully lower them into ice water and refrigerate for laler use. Approximatt" vaiues per 3 t/2-oL (I00-g) St"rving: Calorics 140. Total fal to g, Saruraled fat }~ Ot Icsle rol 425 mg, SOdium 280 mg. Total carbohydr.lIcs ! g. Prold n 12 g, Vilamin A 20Ii
1. Adding an egg to a pot of simmering water.
2. lowering the eggs into ice \\1k'f to cool them for future lI5t'.
Crepes are thin, delicate. unle'Jvened p.:tncakes. TIley are made with a ret)" uid egg batter cooked in a small , very hOI saute pan. Crepe batter can be vored with buckwheat flour, cornme:l1 or other grains. Crepes are not eat~ is, but are usually filled and garnished with sauteed fruits , scrambled ~
EGGS
Grtse or vegetables. Crepes can be prepared in advance, then filled and reInted in the oven, Blintzes are crepes that arc cooked on only one side, then filled with ~. lilt'),
browned in butter and served with sour cream, fmit compote or preA recipe for cheese blintzes is provided at the end of this chapter.
fmoURf. FOR PREPARING CRF-PES
1 Prepare the batler, 1 Heat a well-seasoned crepe pan over moderately high heal. Add a small amount of clarified butter. l \..:Idle a small amount of b.1Her into the pan. Till the pan SO that the batter ~ds to coat the boHom evenly. i Cook until the crepe is set and the bottom begins to brown, approximately 1minute. Flip the crepe over with a quick flick of the wrist or by lifting it carefully with a spatula. I Cook for an additional 30 seconds. Slide the finished crepe from the pan. (ftpescan be stacked between layers of parchment paper for StOrage.
I ====== ~ ====== RECIPE 20.7
SWEET CRtPES Yield: 30 6-inch (I5-cm) Crepes \fhoIc eggs Egg )"olks 'flter
6 6
~Iilk
18 oz. 6 oz. I tsp. 14 oz. 5 oz. as needed
Gf:lnul31ed sugar
SlI, floo, l'nsalted bUller, melted Chrified bUller
12 oz.
6
6 350 ml 550 ml 180 g 5 ml 420 g 150 g as needed
1 'rhisk together the eggs, egg yolks, water and milk. Add the sugar, salt and flour; whisk together. Stir in the mehed bUller. Cover and set aside to rest for at least I hour before cooking. 1 Heat a small saute or crepe pan; brush lightly with clarified buner. Pour in Ito I 1/2 ounces (30-45 gr~lIns) of baner; swirl to coat the bOllom of the pan evenly. j. Cook the crepe until set and light brown, approximately 30 seconds. Flip iI: orer and cook a few seconds longer. Remove from the pan. i Cooked crepes may be used immediately or covered and held briefly in a \\-aml oven. Crepes can also be wrapped well in plastic wrap and refriger~11.'d for 2-3 days or frozen for several weeks. ~
\ltl.ll.'"S per 2-o.z. (S"-g) 5eT\·ing: Calories 140, Tot:Il fat 7 g. S;1tur.l.t~ 9S mg. Sodium 100 rng. Total ca rbo hydrates 17 g. Protein
fat 15
g. Cboo
, 549
550
CIWlfR 20
tifONCLUSION Eggs 3re found in practically every kitchen and sen'cd as Ihe principal in~
dient or incorpof31Cd into various dishes. How to select, handle and
cat
them well arc basic skills all silldent chefs must master.
,f?2 UE57JONS FOR DISCUSSION ..c-, 1. Explain the difference between an omelet and a frittata.
2. Describe four different Iypes of pan-fried eggs, :Incl explain how each is prepared.
3. What is the difference between a soft-cooked egg and a hard-cooked ~ \'thy are these eggs simmered instead of boiled? 4. Why is it imponant nOt 10 overcook or undercook eggs?
• Q{nD1770NAL EGG RECIPES
.,
RECI PE 20.8
SOllI1fWESTERN SawfBLED EGGS WITH GREEN CHILE AND CnORIZO NOTE 7bis dish appears ill/he Cbapler ~Iil/g pboIograpb.
PHOENIX BRl:WING CO., ATU.'iA, GA Executive ChejKeviIJ Fotlzo
Yield: 4 Sen'ings Eggs
Milk Salt and pepper Olive oil
Chorizo, cooked
Green chiles, canned, chopped Tomatoes, chopped Peppe~ack cheese, shredded Green onion, chopped Avocauo, t.lio:u Flour tonilla, heated on a grill and cut into thin wedges
10 8 oz.
250 ml
IT
IT
1 Thsp. 4 oz. 1/ 4 c.
15 Ill] 120 g 60 ml 120 ml
1/2 c.
1/4 c. 1/4 c.
10
60ml 60ml
1. \X"hisk the eggs and milk together in a mixing bowl. Season with
sail"
pepper and set aside. 2. Heat a large saute pan and add the olive oil. Add the chorizo and ccd. until heated thoroughly. Add the chiles and tomatoes and cook for 2!lit utes. 3. Add the eggs to the saute pan and cook over low heat, stirring \i~ and constantl}' with a rubber spal\,lla.
EGGS
When the eggs begin 10 sel , add the cheese and green onions. Cook until !he cheese mellS. immediately, garnished with slices of avocado and tortilla . ..._. ,"'~ per serving: Caloncs 525, Toul fal 39 g. Saturated fat 12 g, Cholrslerol 570 mg. mg. Toul carbohydrate! IS 8, ProCdn 28 g. Vitamin A 28%. Viwnin C 53%. CaJcium
"" '~
1====== -
=======
RECI PE 20.9
GREEK-S1YLE SClWfBLED EGGS Yield: 6 ;-oz. 050-g) Servings
12
Eggs Ht'l\'Y cream
Salt and pepper Onion, diced fine Oarified butter Spinach, chiffonade feu, crumbled Greek oH\'es, pined and chopped
2 oz. IT 2 oz.
12 60 ml IT
60g
3 oz.
90 ml
2 oz. 4 oz.
60g 120 g 45 ml
3 Thsp.
1 Combine the eggs, cream, salt and pepper in a mb.:ing bowl. Whisk until ,,'ell blended. 1 Saute the onion in the butler until translucent but not brown. J. Pour the egg mL'\turc into the pan and cook, stirring frequently , umil half
cooked, approximately 1 minute. , .\dd (he spinach to the eggs and continue cooking. Just before the eggs are fully cooked, sprinkle on the cheese. S Spoon the cooked egg mixture onto serving plates and garnish with the oIire5. Serve immediately.
.. ,"
fIipIllmUle 1'llut'S per 5-oz. (160-g) scrving: Calorie!! 34~. Total fat 29 g. Sarurated fat 15 g. Cho__ 0!85 mg, Sodium 490 mg. Total ca rbohydrate!! 4 g, Protein 16 g, Vitamin A 45%. Cal·
====== ~. ====== RECIPE 20.10
AIrrICHOKE FRl1TAI'A HIE
I ~N
OF
TH,,: WHITE SALMON. WmTE SAaios, \'1;:.\
YIdd: 1 9-inch-round (22-cm) Frinata
Michoke hearts, cooked, fresh or canned l'nsalted butter Parmesan. grated Eggs Half-and-half Monterey Jack cheese, graled
8 oz_ 1 oz_ 2 oz. 10 6 oz. 4 oz.
250 g 30g
60g 10 180 ml 120 g Continued
'""'.
551
552 '"""
CJIAPI'ER 20
1. Quarter the artichoke hearts. 2. Mel! the buner in a saute pan . Add the artichokes and saute until through but not browned. 3. Distribute the 3nichokes in an even layer on the bottom of a
9-"00'.
(22-ccmimeter) nonstick pan. Sprinkle with 1 ounce (30 grams)
Parmesan. 4. In a small mixing bowl, whisk the eggs together with the halif-aolbt Pour over the artichokes. 5. Sprinkle the Monterey Jack cheese over the entire pan. 6. Bake for 30 minutes at 350°F (180°C). Remove from the oven and kle the remaining 1 ounce (30 grams) of Parmesan over the frittara tum to the oven until the cheese is melted and light brown, mately 5 minutes. Approximate values per 1/S-pic 037-g) serving' Calorle!'l 2;0, Total fat 18 g, S••,"", . 'I, Cholatcrol 300 mg, SOdium 320 mg, Total ca rbohyd ralcs 5 g, Protein 16 g, VltamiD A Calcium 25%
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 20.11
EGGS B ENEDICT Yield : 1 SelVing English muffin, split Canadian bacon slices, 1/4 in. (6 mm) thick
Eggs Salt Vinegar Hollandaise (Recipe 10.14) Truffle slices or black olive halves
2 2 IT 21bsp.
2 2 IT
4 oz.
30 ml 120ml
2
2
1. Toast the English muffin. 2. Saute or griddle the bacon slices until hot. 3. Bring 1 quart (I liter) of water to a boil and add the salt and vinegar 4. Add the eggs and poach umil done. 5. Place the muffins on a plate and tOp with the bacon slices. Place on each slice of bacon and cover with the hollandaise sauce. 6. Garnish each egg with a truffle slice or black olive half and serve. VAltIATlONS: Poached eggs Sardou-poached eggs and creamed sp"",b, .".' artichoke bottom with hollandaise sauce. Poached eggs princess style-poached eggs on an English muFfin paragus tips and hollandaise sauce. Approximate values pel' serving:: Calories 970, Tow {al 69 So Saturated {at 33 So ChoIesterol 6J11 .. SodIum 2480 mg, ToW carbohrdJ':lIt:!'l 53 g, Protein 33 g, Vitamin A 80%. Iron ~
EtXJS
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 20.12
CRABCAKES B ENEDICT PHOEN1X BREW1NG co., Aru.\LA, GA E.ytCJltitvt Cbe/Kevin FQnzQ ~irld: 6 Servings
English muffins, split and toasted 6 Crab Cakes (recipe follows) 12 Eggs, poached 12 Tomato Chile Hollandaise (recipe follows) 12 oz.
6 12 12 360ml
L Place an open English muffin on each plate. Top each muffin half wilh a Crab Cake, a poached egg and 2 ounces (60 milliliters) of Tomato Chile Hollandaise sauce. 1 Garnish with gaufrene potatoes and fresh fruit. IF\IICXW!e 1'
CRAB CAKES ridd: 12 Cakes
'I'boIe buner Onion, chopped Green bell pepper, chopped Green onion, chopped
Solt Cayenne pepper forcestershire sauce Old Bare Seasoning Cilantro, chopped Egg Lump crab meat Bread crumbs OU...eoil
3 Thsp. 1 c. 1/2 c. 112 c. lI2 tsp. 1/4 ~p. I tsp. I tSp. 1 tsp.
1 1 lb. ltOl 1/2 c.
3 Thsp.
45 ml 250 ml
120 ml 120 m1 3ml 1 ml 5 ml 5 ml 5 ml 1 500 g 250-360 ml 45 ml
1 Heat the butter in a saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, bell pepper and green onion. Cook until tender, then remove from the pan and cool completely. l in a large bowl, combine the salt, cayenne, Worcestershire sauce, Old Bay, cilantro and egg. Mix well. Add the cooled vegetables and crab. 1 Add enough bread crumbs to bind the mixture. Divide into 12 pollions and shape into patties. t Heat the olive oil in a large .s..ute pan. Saute the crab cakes until golden hown on both sides. .IppuDmi1e ,... Iues per cake: Calories 1}9. Total fat 8 g, Saturated fat 3 g. Cholesterol 55 mg. II1II J8! mg, Total carboh)"dr:lto 8 g, Proteln 9 g
CO lUinlled
"'"
553
554
CIIAPmR 20
TOMATO CHILE HOLLANDAISE Yield: 1 qt. (t l!) Hollandaise Sauce (Recipe 10.1 4) Chilli powder Tomato paste
I qt. Ilbsp. I Thsp.
lit
15 ml 15 ml
I . Stir the chilli powder and tomato paste into the Hollandaise Sauce. ApproxilTlJt(' , ..!lues per 4..oz. (J2().ml) serving: Calorico 129. ToCa l fat 11 g, Saruraled f;ll leslerol 26 mg, Sod ium 830 mg , TOlal carboh )·dr.uco 8 g. Prolein 3 g. Vitamin A 15%
= = = = = = = -v' RECIPE 20.13
B UCKWHEAT CREPES WITH SA USAGE AND APPLE STUFFING TIlE CONYERS HOUSE, SI'ERJlnlLLE, \\\
Yield: 8 Servings All-purpose flour Buckwheal flour
3 oz. I oz.
90g 30g
Eggs
2
Salt Milk \"(later Unsalted buner, melted Oil Pork sausage, bulk Unsalted butter Apples, peeled, cored and diced Cinnamon, ground Apple cider Sour cream Fresh sage
1/4 tsp. 4 oz. 6 oz. I oz. as needed
2 I Illi
lib.
2 oz. 6 medium I tsp. 4 oz. 8 oz. 2 Thsp.
120 ml 100 ml 30g as needed 450 g 60g 6 medium 5 mI 120 ml 250 g 30 ml
1, To make the crepes, mix the flours together in a medium bowl.
eggs and salt. Stir to make a thick baner. 2. Whisk in the milk, then add the water a linie at a time. \'('hisk in the butter. Set the batter aside to rest for 20 minutes. 3. Heat a crepe pan and coat it lightly with oil. Pour I 1/2 ounces of batter into the pan, lifting and tilting to coat the pan evenlr. 4. Brown the crepe Jighlly on one Side, cooking until the surface .', rut. . . move from the pan and hold in a warm oven until ready to fill and Repeat this process until all the crepes are made. 5. To make the filling, cmmble the sausage into a saute pan; cook medium-high heat until fully cooked. Remove the sausage from with a slotted spoon and place in a mesh strainer to drain excess fat 6. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon (IS milliliters) of fat. Add the butler 10 pan and melt over medium heat. Add the diced apples and saUle until
EGGS ....".
I the cinnamon over the apples and pour in the apple cider. Cook until the cider is reduced by half. the drained sausage to the pan. Add the sour cream and sage. Mix 'A'en and heal thoroughly. To assemble, spoon a panion of the filling onto each crepe. Roll the crepe lCOUnd the filling and serve immediately. ;';Im per o.oz. (184'8) setVing; Calorie 2<10. Total fae 11 g. Saturated Cal 6 g, ChoSodium 140 mg, Total carbohydralC5 29 g, Prolein 5 g, Vitamin A 10%. Claims"'~" d",bo
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 20.14
CHEESE B UNTZES licld: 16 Blintzes
3
3
8 oz. 112 tsp. 4 oz.
2SO ml 30 ml 2m! 120 g
O1rified butler Ricooa Egg lulk SJh
as needed 12 oz.
350 g
Lemon juice
liSp. 1 lSp. 20;.:.
\egelabJe oil SJh
roo,
\ini]la eX!iJct
IIoncr
1 oz.
I 1/4
ISp .
as needed
I Iml 5 ml 5 ml
60g
1 To make the batter, whisk together the eggs, milk and oil. Add the saiL Stir in the flour and mix until smooth . Allow the baner to rest for 30 minutes. Heat a crepe pan and add a small amount of clarified buner. Add 1 ounce (30 grams) of tbe bauer to the pan. Tip the pan so that the baner coats the entire surface in a thin la}'er. Cook the pancake until browned on the bottom. Remove it from the pan. ll, m"k, the filling, drain the cheese in a china cap. Combine the remaining ingredients (except the butter) with the cheese and mix well. To assemble, place a pancake on the work surface with the cooked side down. Place 1 ounce (30 grams) of the filling in the center of the pancake. Fold Ihe opposite ends in and then roll up to form a small p3ckage. Saute each blintz in buner until hoI. Serve wilh sour cream or fruit comlXlle as desired. " : ::::':,::",:r 2-07_ (59-g) .5erving: Calories 110, Total fat 7 g, Saturated fat 3.5 g. ChoII 170 ~, Total carbohydrate!! 7 g, Protein 5 g
555
556 "'"
CIW'l7JR 20
======= ..-...p-. ====== RECIPE 20.1;
CINNAMON FRENCH TOAST Fnmch toast begins wilh slices of day-o/d bread.
(II is kllQWII
in FrollCi'tJS
pain perdll, meaning "Iosl bread," probably becallse it provided a U'il)"10 use bread thai wOllld otbenuise bave beell discarded.) French brmd. sourdollgh, raisin bread, challah, whole wheal, evell stale croissants can be used. The bread is dipped i1ll0 a hatter of eggs, sligar, milk or cream and jlavon"ngs, then sail teed ill bllller and seroed very bot. It may bt topped with powdered sligar, fresh fnlit, fn/it compote or maple s}'1lIPtJS desired. Yield: 6 Servings Eggs, beaten Heavy cream Salt Cinnamon, ground Thick-sliced bread such as sourdough, cinnamon, banana or brioche Unsalted butter Powdered sugar
10 4 oz. IT IT
10 120 ml IT IT
12 slices as needed as needed
12 slices as needed as needed
1. Whisk together the eggs, cream, salt and cinnamon. 2. Place the egg mix-rure in a shallow pan. Place the slices of bread in mixture and lei soak for 2-3 minutes, turning them over after the minute or so. j. Cook the slices of French toaSt in a lightly buttered, preheated saute or griddle set at 350°F (l80°C) until well browned. Turn the slices cook on the second side until done. 4. Cut each slice of bread inlo IWO triangles. 5. Arrange four triangles on each plate and dust with powdered sugar. Approximale V3lues per 5-07.. (l52-g) serving: Ca lo ries 320, TOlal fal 17 g, s"'rn''''-'~''.,O~ lerol 380 mg. Sodium 420 mg, Total carboh)'drales 28 g, Protein 15 g, Vitamin A 25%, ItOIIll\
HAPTER
2
Chlnols Otl Alain, Sanla ,uotlica, Ct Chef If'olfgatlg Puck
=== ~ ==
After siudying this chapter, you will be able to: <"\!l.
select and maintain the proper equipment and fats for deep-
frying <"\!l. <"\!l.
use breadings and batters prepare fritters and croquettes
_-<:---' eepfrying has a bad
reputatioll. Too many CO/lSI/mil think of deepfried f()()t/s as greasy conveuience items with i.bd
breadhzgs or batters masking the principal ingredie1lf's inJeriorqlfi. ity. But properly. prepared deep-fried foods can be deliciously Imil and juiCJ-and tbeir contrasting crispy crnsts and moist add to eating enjoymem.
jilt
Perhaps no other cooking method can be applied to sllch a II variety off oods. Meats, poultry, fish and shellfish, vegetables, {JOI and other starches, jntits, pastries and even ice cream can be f n'ed successfully. That is why we devote a separate chapter 10
process. This versatile procedure is relatively simple provided a few
gUidelines are followed. This chapter explains those guidelines provides recipes for breading and batters. Also included are il/ugftive recipes using deep/rying techniques. Other recipes that used frying arefotlnd in the various chapters on vegetables, fish, sta and quick breads.
Deep-frying is a dry-heat cooking method using fat as the cooking Boiling and deep-frying are conceptually similar. For both cooking foOO is placed in a liquid and heat is transferred from the hot liquid ("'"310' fat , respectively) to the foOO being cooked through conduction (the uamfer heat by direct contact) and convection (the transfer of heat through the rents in a liquid or gas). The principal difference between boiling and deep frying is the Ie of the cooking medium. The boiling point, 212°F OOOOe ), is the hooes! perature at which food can be cooked in water. At this temperature, foods require a long cooking period and surface sugars cannot With deep-frying, temperatures up to 400"F (200°C) are used. These high peratures cook foOO more quickly and allow the food 's surface to bro"'n. though the food is cooked in a liquid, deep-frying is not a moisl-heat method because the liquid fat contains no moisture.
SELECTING EQUIPMENT FOR DEEP-FRYING .h-, Unlike most kitchen equipment, a deep-fat fryer has only one purpose cook foods in a large amount of hot fa t. Fryers are sized by the amowu d they hold. Most commercial fryers range between IS and 82 pounds. F. can be either gas or e lectric and are thermostatically controlled for I hIres between 200°F and 400°F (9O°C-200°C). When choosing a fryer, look for a fry tank with curved, easy-Io-dean ing sides. Some fryers have a cold zone (an area of reduced temperann
DEEP-FR11NG f"'2\. 561
booom of the fry tank to trap particles. This prevenlS them from burning, off-flavors and shortening the life of the fryer fal. Deep-fryers usually come with steel wire baskets to hold the food during . Fryer baskets are usually lowered into the fat and raised manually, some models have automalic basket mechanisms controlled by .\s with any piece of C
colleague show you how to operate any deep-fryer before using or il.
The most important factor when choosing a deep-fryer is recovery time. time is the length of time it takes the fat to return to the desired io"ingterrlpernlllce after food is submerged in it. When food is submerged, is immediately transferred to tbe food from the fat. This heat transfer lowfat's temperature. The more food added at one time, the greater the the fat's temperature. [f the temperature drops too much or does not [0 the proper cooking temperature, the fO<Xl may absorb excess become greasy. ileel>fDling foods in a sa uce pot on tbe stove top is discouraged because '''Wlai"nculI[ and dangerous. Recovery time is usually very slow, and temare diffi cult \0 control. Also the fat can spill easily, leading to injuries a fire hazard.
FAlS FOR DEEP-FRYING
..N-,
. ~pes of fats can be used for deep-frying. (In this chapler, the term fat to boI:h solid fats and liquid oils.) Although animal falS, such as renbeef fat, are sometimes used to impart their specific flavors to deep-fried by far Ihe most common fats used for deep-frying are vegetable oils ,"",••)yl><"n, safflower and ca nola oil. Specially formulated deep-fat frying compounds are also available. These II composed of a vegetable oil or oils to which antifoaming agents, ",,e1
""$
~lmidown
562
..."
CIW'lfR 21
Maintaining Flyer Fat Properly maintaining fryer fat greall}' extends its useful life. To do so:
TABLE
21.1
Fryer fa t can be damaged by: Salt '"tater Overheating Food particles Oxygen
1. Store the fat in lightly sealed containers away from strong light: C(IItf fat in the fryer when not in use. Prolonged exposure to air and lighl fat rancid. 2. Skim and remove food panicles from the fat's surface during frying. f{ particles cause fal to break down; if they are not removed, they will ax mulate in the fryer and burn. 3. Do not salt food over the fat. Sail causes fat to break down chemicaIh 4. Prevent excessive water from coming imo con tad with the fat; pH moist foods as much as possible before cooking dry the fryer, baskets and utensils well after elm Water, like S<11t, causes fat to break down. Change fryer fal when it:
Becomes dark Smokes
'''''"' Develops off-Oavors
5. Do not overheat the f:u (turn the fryer down or 11
not in use). High temperatures break clown the fa
6. Filter the fat each cl:1Y or after each shift if the ~'(! heavily used. Best resulls are obtained by using ~ tering machine designed specifically for this puIJkl' Many large commercial fryers even h3ve built-in systems. Less well-equipped oper:Hions can pour the hot fat through a paper cone filter.
PROCEDURES FOR DEEP-FRYING .h' The tempentture of the fat is critical to successful deep-frying. The fat mlbt hot enough to quickly seal the surface of the food so that it does nOl beCIJ exceSSively greas)', yet it should nO! be so hot that the food's surface bull\') fore the interior is cooked. Nearly all deep-fried foods are cooked at temperatures between 32W 375 Q F (I60°C-I90°C). The fat's temperature can be adjusted within this I1I'i to allow the interior of thicker foods or frozen foods 10 cook before their faces become too dark. Try not to fry delicately flavored fO<Xls in the same fat used for !I" strongly flavored ones. For example, do nm deep-fry fT\lit frillers in the fat used for catfish. If the friuers are fried in the catfish fat, they could de\ an odd taste from the reSidual flavors left from the catfish.
Deep-FlyinJ; Metbods
Basket Method of IX-'Cp-Frying
TIlere are two distinct deep-frying methods for standard electric or gas Ii) the basket method and the swimming methoo. Which is used dependI the food being fried. The basket metJlOd of deep-frying uses a basket 10 hold fm th! breaded, individually quick frozen or otherwise do not tend !O stick togt'[! during cooking. The basket is removed from the fryer and filled :IS much 3Stl thirds full of product. (Do not fill the basket while it is hanging over the f2 this allows unnecessary crumbs, salt and food panicles to fall into the fat. s/rf cning its life.) The filled basket is then submerged in the hot fat. When is completed, the ooskel is used to remove the food from the fat.
DEEP-FRI1NG .~ \'ariation on Ihis procedure is the double·basket method. This variation fIl"Cess:u)' because many fried foods float as they cook. TIlis may produce abitable results because the section of the food not submerged may nO{ · To prevent this and to promote even cooking, a second basket is used ~ct'J> the foods submerged in the fat. Most banered foods initially sink (0 the bottom when placed in hot fat, then 10 the top as they cook. l3ec.mse they would stick to a basket, the swim· IiDg method of deep-frying is used for these foods. With the swimming «KI. hattered foods are carefully dropped directly into the hot fat. (Baskets .001 used.) They will rise to the top as they cook. When the surface that is rontJct with the fat is properly browned, the food is turned over with a spior a pair of tongs so that it can cook evenly on both sides. When done, product is removed and drained, again using a spider or tongs.
563
Double-Basket Method of DeepFrying
Draining and Holding Deep-Fried Foods dee(rfried foods must be drained of excess oil before they are served. Ik1l removing foods from the deep-fryer, allow excess fat to dra in into the \'I Then transfer the foods to a hotel pa n that is either lined with absorbent ~ or fined with a rack. Dtqrfried foods should be kept under :t heat lamp. Steam tables do nOl 'P ~fried foods hot because very little of the crisp foods' surface actuIOOChes the hot surface of the steam table's pltn.
SF1EC!7NG FOODS FOR DEEP-FRYING tender foods should be deep-fried. Deep-frying cooks foods at relatively Iffilpemtures for shan periods and does not have a tenderizing effect. ~ tender poultry is ideal, as are most types of lean fish and shellfish. and vegetables Gin also be deep-fried. Probably the most popular deep· ftOOs of all are potatoes, which are cooked in an endless variety of ]b and forms. (Several of the recipes found in Chapter 23, Potatoes, Gra ins p.J.'ila, require deep-frying.) Foods that arc deep-fried together should be rlk! SJmc size or thickness so that they cook e\'enly. Slow-cooking vegcw)'Uch as broccoli, cauliflower and okra ca n be blanched first so that they :tql-fl)' more quickly.
PREPARING FOODS FOR DEEP-FRYING exceptions (french fries, for example), most foods to be deep-fried fiN breaded or bauered. Breading and baller coat the food. keeping it • JJKI preventing it from becoming excessively greasy during cooking. I MltTle
~olling Foods to
be Deep-Fried
,A-d and ootlered foods can be seasoned before the breading or bauer is . ~J:iOnings may also be added to the flour, bread crumbs or batter be, tk lTllin item is co.ated. II:m) types of deep-fried f<xxi are s:llted after they arc removed from the Thb ~hould be done immediately after the food is removed from the fryer .u the salt will cling more re:ldily.
Swimming Method of Deep-Flying
564
("'\!\,
CHAPTER 21
Breading Foods to be Deep-Fried A breaded item is any food that is coated with bread crumbs, cracker lid cornmeal or other dry meal to protect it during cooking. Breaded fools It generally cooked by deep-frying or pan-frying. The breading makes 2 coating that seals during cooking to prevent the fat from coming in din" •• • tact with the food and making it greasy.
Whether breading meats, poultry, fish , shellfish or vegetables, a"""",, . process is typically used. Called the stan dard breading procedure, . foods a relatively thick, crisp coating. 1. Pat the food dry and dredge it in seasoned flour. The flour adds seasonq to the food, helps seal it, and allows the egg wash to adhere. 2. Dip the floured food in an egg wash. The egg wash should contain v.Me eggs whisked together with approximately 1 tablespoon (15 millililers)~ or water per egg. The egg wash will cause the crumbs or meal to completely coat the item and form a tight seal when the food is cooked. j. Coat the food with bread crumbs, cracker crumbs or other dry meal. Shir off the excess crumbs and place the breaded item in a pan. As additio:lll breaded items are added to the pan, align them in a single layer; do 00: stack them or the breadings will get soggy and the foods will stick together. Figure 21.1 shows the proper setup for breading foods using the breading procedure. The following procedure helps to bread foods more efficiently: 1. Assemble the mise en place as depicted in Figure 21. 1. 2. With your left hand, place the food to be breaded in the flour and coal. evenly. With the same hand, remove the floured item, shake off 'he e",' flour and place it in the egg wash. 3. With your right hand, remove the item from the egg wash and place it ill the bread crumbs or meal. 4. With your left hand, cover the item with crumbs or meal and press tightly to make sure the item is completely and evenly coated. Shake off the excess crumbs or meal and place the breaded food in the empty pan fa finished product.
The key is to use one hand for the liquid ingredients and the for the dry ingredients. This prevents your fingers from becoming layer after layer of breading.
FIGURE 21 .1
Product 1(1 be
Pan 1(1 h(lld
''''''''
''''''''
Setup for tbe Standard Breading Procedure
produa
DEEP-FRYING """
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 21.1
DEEP-FRIED CATFISH FIlLETS WI11I TARTAR SAUCE YICId: 8 Servings
..atfuih fillets, cut into unifonn-sized pieces \lh and pepper floor :ggwash 'lhlle cornmeal Tartar Sauce (Recipe 24.20)
3 lb.
1.5 kg
IT
IT
as needed as needed as needed 12 oz.
as needed as needed as needed 3QO onl
I. ~n the fillets with salt and pepper. ! Bread the fillets lIsing the standard breading procedure (the white corn-
JlI.'aI is the final coating). the basket method, deep-fry the fillets until done. Drain well and It'r\'C with the lanar sauce.
ll'~ing
oUII'Ille 1';llu('S per B-oz. (2 13-g) serving, Calories 6(X), TOlal fal ·16 g, Saluralt:d fat 10 g, Cho'*I'iIIlti) mg. Sodium 910 mg, Total carbohrdrate!l 16 g. Protein 31 g. Iron 15%
/. fhIring the seasoned fish fillets.
2. Passing the floured fillets through the egg wash.
1, uhng the fillers wilh while cornmeal.
4. Deep-frying the fill ets using the basket method.
565
566 ,.,...
ClW'l1!JI2J
Croquelles Croquettes are cooked meats, poultry, vegetables, fish or potatoes. lI9JaJ; bound with a heavy bechamel or veloule saLlce and seasoned. They are tile'I breaded and deep-fried.
======== .......,. ======= RECIPE 21.2
SALMON CROQUE1TES Yield: 12 Croquettes Onion, small dice
Whole butler
Flour r-,'Iilk Salmon, poached and flaked Fresh dill, chopped Salt and pepper Lemon juice Flour Egg wash Fine bread cnllnbs
2 oz. 3 oz. 3 oz.
60g 90g 90g
8 oz. lIb. IT IT
250 Illi 450g IT IT
1 Tbsp.
15 ml
as needed for breading as needed for breading as needed for breading
I . Saute the onion in the butter until translucent.
2. Add the flour and cook to make a white rOllx.
3. Add the milk 4.
5.
6: 7.
10 make a heavy bechamel sauce. Cook the sauce until thick, approximately 5 minutes. Remove the sauce from the heal and transfer it 10 a mixing bowl. Ad! d.i flaked salmon. Season the mixture with dill, salt, pepper and lemon ~ and mix well. Spread the mixture in a h(){el pan, cover and refrigerate until cold. POllion the mixture using a -20 ponion scoop. Form each portion i!J cone shape. Bread the croquettes lIsing the stand:ud breading procai.. Using the basket method, deep·fry the breaded croquettes until done
,\pproximate ''llues per croqUCltC, Calories 140. TOlal fat 9 g, Salllrall-d (al 4.5 g. Cbolesltrd mg, Sodium 470 mg, Total carbohydrales 7 1.1, I'roldn 9 g, Vila min A Caldum 1(/>1
I . POrtiOning the croquette mixture
with a ponion scoop.
2. Fomling the mixture into cone shapes.
3. Deep·frying the breaded croquettes using the basket method.
DEEP-FRI1NG
• 567
BIIffering Foods to be Deep-Fried like breading, CO:lt the food being cooked, keeping it moist and preing il from becoming excessively greasy. B.lnm consist of a liquid such :IS waler, milk or beer, combined with a :cb such as flour or cornstarch. Many batters :lIsa contain a chemical leavagent such as baking powder. Two common batters are beer bauer, :h ll
lll'r.I.
1rmnl'RE FOR
BATfERING FOODS
I. Pal the food dry and dredge in flour if desired. 1. Dip the item in the bailer and place it directly in hot fat.
RECi PE 2 1. 3
BEER-BAITERED ONION RINGS Yield: I qt. (J 1\), enollgh for approx. 4 lb. (1.8 kg) rings
300g
""'lhile pepper
10 oz. Z !Sp. Z !Sp. \/4 !Sp.
EAA
I
I
I pI. as needed 4Ib.
450 ml as needed
fIoo, &king powder
8
fOOr. for dredging Onioru.. whole
10 m! 10 m! I ml
1.8 kg
I. ~ !he dry ingredients together.
1. Bt:-Jllhe egg in a separate bowl. Add the beer (a the beaten egg. 10 the dry ingredients; mLx until smooth. i Pl'Cllhc onions and Clit in 1/2-inch (Z-centimetcr) thick slices. l Bn:ak the slices into rings and dredge in flour. , Dip the rings in (he b:lller a few at a time. Using (he swimming method , dt:cp-fry al 375°F (I90 CC) until done. Drain on llbsorbent paper, season ~ilh additional sal\ and white pepper and serve hot.
! .\tId the egg-and-beer mixlllrc
t.IOI <, mI!. Sodium !60 mI!. TOla.1 carbo hrdratcs 31 g. Protein 4 g
2. Dipping the floured rings in bailer.
I. On.>dging the onion rings in flour.
3. Frying the onion rings lIsing the
nlllC.'S pc.'r 1-<)7,. (~g) >cl"ling; Ca lorie."!i 2}). Total fat 10 g, Saturated fat 1.5 g, Chi>-
swimming method.
568
CHAPTER 21
====== ~ ======I REClPE 21.4
TEAfPURA SIIRlMP AND VEGETABLES WITH DIPPING SAUCE Yield : 1 qt. (J It), enough for 4 lb. (1.8 kg) vegetables or shrimp
Dipping Sauce 1o.'lirin Soy sauce Rice wine vinegar Lemon juice Wasabi powder Tempura B,LUer:
Eggs Sparkling water, cold Flour Shrimp, 21-25 count, butterflied with tails on Sweet potato Mushrooms, small, whole Zucchini, baton net
2 oz. 4 oz. 2 oz. 11bsp. I tsp.
60ml 120ml 60 nu 15 ml 5 ml
2
2
I pI.
500 ml 300 g
10 oz. 2 lb. 8 oz. l ib. 8 oz.
I kg 250 g 4;0 g 2;0 g
I . Combine all the ingredients for the dipping sauce. Set aside.
2. To prepare the b,l!Ier, beat the eggs and add the cold water. 3. Add the flour to Ihe egg-and-water mixture and mix until the flour ~ II-
4.
5,
6. 7.
corporated. There should still be small lumps in the batter. Overmixing" velops gluten, which is undesirable. Dry the shrimp well . Holding them by the tail , dip them into the bam,,,. drop them into the deep-fryer using the swimming methexl. Cook lDII done. Peel the sweet potato and cut in 1/4-inch (6-millimeter) thick slices, ~dt potato is large, cut e:lch slice in half to make semicircles. Drop the vegetables in the batler a few al a lime. I{emove them from batter one at a time and drop into the deep-fryer using the swi method. Cook until done. Arrange the tempura shrimp and vegetables on a serving platter. Serre. dipping sauce on the side. \':Ilucs per 1~ (M·g) .'jC1"\·ing: Calorie!! 120. Total fat 5 g, Saturaled fat mg. Sodium 370 mg, TOial carbo hydrates 10 g. Protein 7 g
AppR)ximalC
le m l 55
1 g.
c..-
Fritters Fritters contain diced or chopped fish, shellfish, vegetables or fruits txm1. gether with a thick bauer and deep-fried. The main ingredient is usual/}' !It cooked. Frillers are spooned or dropped directly into the hot fat; they foolll Cnlst as they cook. Popular examples are clam fritters, corn friners, artiddr frillers and apple frillers.
DEENR17NG
569
= = = = = = -.r RECIPE 2 1. 5
APPLE FRITTERS \itkl: 100 2-in. (S-em) Fritters
6
6
\lilk
1 pI.
floor IIJking powder
lib.
500 Ill! 450 g
1 l1)$p.
>ili
IIsp.
~gJr
2 oz. 1/2 tSp.
60g
I lb. Soz.
700 g
as needed
as needed
[)!.g.\.
-.epar:ued
(mrumon \JlPles, peeled. cored, medium dice
Powdered sugar
15 Illl 5 Illl 2 ml
I Combine the egg yolks and milk. ! 'iii together the flour, baking Ix>wder. salt, sugar and cinn:tmon. Add the dr, ingredients 10 the milk-and-egg mixture; mix until smooth.
.\h. the ooncr 10 rest 1 hou r. Stir the apples into the b:lUcr. 1 JUSI hcfore the fritters are 10 be cooked, whip the egg whiles to sofl peaks .md fold into the baner. , XOop the frillers into 350Q F 080°C) deep fat , using the swimming method. Cook until done .
j
i
• Ou.o;! with powdered sugar and serve hoI. 0U!IIle l'llucs per 1/2-oz. 07-!{) friulor: Calories 60, To tal fat 4 IrNI li~,
g. Saturated fat I II, Choles-
SodI um S mg. Total carbohydrates 6 g, Protein 1 g
l folding the egg whites into the
3. Dropping the fri tters into the deep
lun~,.,
fat.
DErERMINING DONENESS L'idifficult 10 determine the doneness of deep-fried foods , especially breaded :1bJnl'l't.>d ones. The keen sense of liming tl1:11 develops with experience is a ~llooI,
Otherwise:
1. Adding the dry ingredients to the liquids.
4. Dust ing the fritters with powdered sugar.
570
("\!'I~
CHAPTER 21 I . Color is rhe most commonly used method for determining doneness.
2.
3.
4. 5.
fried foods should be deep golden brown when done. But color Gm cdving. If the temperature of the far is too high, the food's suc'"~dl. darken quickly and appear done while rhe cemer remains raw. Also, comes dark with use; dark fat prematurely darkens food, againc \~:~~~ I foods to appear done before they are. Similarly, foods with high 5\ tent darken quickly in hOI fat. Large items such as fried chicken can be removed from the fat and with an instant-read thermometer. The internal temperanlre should 165°F-170°F (74°C-77°C). Fish and shellfish cook quickly and are easily overcooked. If praaicaL remove a piece and cut it open to determine its doneness. Then rely on tilt jng and color for the remaining batches. Vegetllbles should be tender when their surfaces are the proper color. Potatoes shou ld be anractively browned and cooked to the desired ~ ness,
Generally, deep-fried foods must be completely cooked in the det'~f'l.ll . is possible, however, to finish some deep-fried foods (for ""mf''', chicken) in the oven after being browned in the fat. But there is a problem' doing SQ . As the food cooks in tbe oven, moisture is released that the breading to become soggy on the bottom.
ONCLUSION J! Deep-frying is a useful and versatile dry-heat cooking method. To high-quality deep-fried foods, it is imponant to understand which spond well to deep-frying and how to prepare them for cooking. You also understand bow to prevent deep-fried food from becoming greasy by properly coating them with batters or breadings and cooking temperatures. Finally, you must understand how to determine ness. By following the guidelines discussed in this chapter, you will consistently produce the desired results.
FOR DISCUSSION
rrr-
'I. What qualities should be considered when choosing a fat for deep-frrUli
2. Name and describe two styles of deep-frying. 3. List three signs Ihal fryer fat has broken down and should be replaced. What causes fryer fat to break clown? \X'hat can you do to extend fryer fat? 4. Explain the differences between breading and baltering foods for deepfrying . 5. Describe the correct mise en place for the standard breading procedure 6. Explain several similarities and differences between frillers and croquette$.
DEEP-FRJ1NG
RECIPE 21.6
WHOLE S IZZLING CArPISH WITH GINGER AND PONZU SA UCE NOTe: 71Jif dish (IfrJrurs ill/be Clxipler CfJf/lillgplxJtograph. CIllNOIS ON
~WN,
s"SlI MOXICA, CA
COO/Wolfg(lng Puck rK'ld: 4 Servings Salt and pepper
IT
1 IT
fresh ginger, sliced and blanched Peanut oil Lemon juice Ponzu Sauce: SO)' sauce Minn Rice I'incgar lemon juice F~ wood ear mushrooms Fresh rilamro
6 pieces
6 pieces
as needed as needed
as needed as needed
Catfish, cleaned. 3 lb. (I.3 kg)
Green onions
120ml 4 oz. 120 ml 4 oz. 120ml 4 oz. 4 oz. 120 ml as needed for garnish as needed for garnish as needed for garnish
~n the catfish with salt and pepper. Make three 2-inch (S-centimeter) iocisions on each side of the fish and stuff each incision with blanched
Deep-fry the catfish in peanllt oil, being Glreful to submerge the entire fish. Cook until golden-colored and crispy. Squeeze fresh lemon juice over Ihe lOp of the fish . .\bke the sauce by combining the listed ingredients. J Sen'e [he whole catfish on a planer garnished with wood ear mushrooms, ruantro and green onions. SeTVe Ihe Ponw Sauce on the side. per SI,.·.....-ing: Ca tories 970. Total fat 5) g, Samrated fat 12 g. Cholcsterol 305 mg. PIO mg. Toul carbohydrates 60 g. Protein 7{l g, Vitamin C 25%. Calcium 20%. Iron 40%
1..._,,,, "",,
571
HAPTER
22 EGETABLES
Cree"s, S(I" f'rtmclscu, VI E:o:emtil'e ChefAllllie SQlI/en'lIle
=== ~ === After studying this chapter, you will be able to: <"'\!\. <"'\!\.
<"'0.. <"\!l.
identify a variety of vegetables purchase vegetables appropriate for your needs store vegetables properly understand how vegetables are
preserved <"'\!\.
prepare vegetables for cooking or service
<"'\!\.
apply variOLlS cooking methods 10
vegetables
Vegetarian--a persall I(,bo primanly or ere/IIsil'fly eats plant fOO
eggs alld dairy prodllcts. Vegan---a
tY1,'l!liJritlll
u'bo does nol (i(l! ally (llIi-
C::::"'_,../ ong overcooked and underrated, vegetables are
J
ing a welcomed surge in popularity_Gone are tbe days when a il1cluded vegetables as an afie/thollght to {be "meat andpoi'atoo'j the meal. Now, properly preparedJresh vegetables are VOl; color und variety fa a/mosl any meal. Many restaurallts 11I17:ng vegetarian entrees, an extensive selection of vegetable dishes or em eNtire vegetarian men//.. 7his trend ref/ects the of more knowledgeable alld health-collscious COI/Sllmer~i as the increased availability of high-quality fresh produce. In this chapte1; we idel1tijj' many of the vegetables typicaffy I by food sefvice operations. (Potatoes, although vegetables, cussed in Chapter 23, Potatoes, Grains and Pasta, while wf"d """ are discussed in Chapter 24, Salads and Salad Dressings.) also discuss how fresh and prese1wd vegetables are plIrchas,eJ, stored and prepared for selvice or cookillg. Many of tbe methods analyzed in Chapter 9, Principles of Cooking, plied to vegetables.
The term vegetable refers to any herbaceous plant that can be wholly eaten. An herbaceous plant has little or no woody tissue. we consume include the leaves, stems, roolS, tubers, seeds and etables contain more starch and less sugar than fmi ts. Therefore tend to be savory, not sweet. Also unlike fmits, vegetables are most eaten cooked, not raw.
ilia! prodllds.
IDENtIFYING VEGETABLES ..n-, l1lis book presents fmits and vegetables according to the view them and use them, rather than by rigid botanical c1ass;ficat;offi though produce such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplants are fmils , they are prepared and served like vegetables and are included under the category we call "fruit-vegetables. " Potatoes, although vegetables, are discussed with other starches in Chapter 23, Potatoes. and Pasta. We divide vegetables into nine categories based Upoll either botankal tionship or edible part. They are cabbages, fmit-vegetables, gourds squashes, greens, mushrooms and tnlffles, onions, pods and seeds, roots tubers, and stalks. A vegetable ITIay have several names, varying from to region or on a purveyor's whim. The names given here follow cepted custOITI and usage.
Cabbages The Brassica or cabbage family includes a wide range of vegetables used their heads, flowers or leaves. They are generally quick-grOWing, I· ' crops. Many are ancient plants with unknown origins. They are ;n"pe1'" readily available and easy to prepare.
VECETABLE5
1>i~1' ~'. also known as pok choy, is a w hite-stemmed vari ety of ~
Chinese cabbage. The ret:ui\'cl}' lightly packed leaves arc green. with long white ribs lIuached at a bulbous stem. The
\.ue crisp and mild with a flavor similar to romaine lettuce, Al-
..gil bok ehoy may be eaten mw, il is most often stir-fried or In
$OUps.
0Kl0Se heads with bright while stalks :md dark green
o. amid those with brown. mOist spots. Fresh bok cho), all Ye'Jr. Jars of pickled and fermented bok ehoy bmll as Korean kim chee) arc also aV:lilable, ,-a~aole
trxcoIi &ocroli. l type of fl ower, hils a thick cen tral stalk wilh grayish-green o (OPfX.'
l10k CIJO)'
t'JIe!I raw or sleamed, microwaved or sauteed and served warm or cold. I3roc-
)!llks are extremely firm and benefit from bkmching. SIems arc often '
Pmnt.'RE FOR COOING BROCCOI.I SI'MRS
Broccoli
Cut off the thick, woody portion of the stalk, then cut the fl orets
h5stls Spro/l ts ~,-.:b ~prouts (Fr. cbot/x de IJllIxelles) were first cultivated arou nd 1700. The ~ produces numerous sm
The tender roung sprouts :lre similar to baby cabbages and are usu:dly .med or roasted. Bmsscls sprouts ha\'e a strong, nutty flavor that blends \\ith game, ham, duck or rich meats. 11lOO.<.e small, firm sprouts that arc compad :tnd heavy. The best size is 3/4 11 2 inches (2 10 4 centimeters) in diameter, They should be bright green ..J fn.>e of hlemishes. TIlcir peak season is from September through Fehnm ry .
.bIlo\\'cr (Fr. cbot/flellr) is the king of the cabbage family. Each stalk pronower or head surrounded by large green leaves. The head, com~r!
Bmssels Sproliis
~ one
C(llIlijlower
• 575
576
C!W'f'ER 22
Choose firm, compact heads. Any allached leaves should be bright gft!I and crisp. A yellow color or spreading florets indicate that the wgeulio overty mature. Cauliflower is available aU year, especiaUy from the Wi through the spring.
PROCl-DURE FOR ClJITlNG CAUUFl.OWER FLORI:.'TS
1. Cut off the stem and leaves.
2. CUI Ihe florets off of the core
Green and Red Cabbages C1bbage (Fr. chou) has been a staple of nonhern European cuisine fer «Ituries. The familiar green cabbage has a large, fiml, round head with ti¢i: p.1cked pale green leaves. Flat and conic-JI-shaped heads are also a\"a~ Red (or purple) cabbage is a different strain and may be tougher than ~ cabbage. Cabbage can be eaten raw (as in coleslaw) or used in soups crw. it can be br'Jised, steamed or stir-fried. TIle !:I rge, waxy leaves can abo It steamed untit soft, then wrapped around a fitting of seasoned meat. Choose firm heads without dried cores. Cabbages are available all year
Kale
Greell mill Red Cabbages
Kale
Kale has large ruffled, curly or bumpy leaves. Its rather bitter flavor goes ~d with rich meats such as game, pork or 11,1111. Kale is typically Ixliled, stuffl.'d'J used in soups. Choose leaves that are crisp, with a grayish-green color. year, Wilh peak season during the winter months. Ornamental or flowering kale, sometimes marketed as "sa\'oy,~ is edible, but its pink, purple. yellow or white-andgreen variegated leaves are I;x:st used for decoration and garnish.
Onu/IIu!II/al Kale
I~GETABLES
fIJImbi mgh il looks rather like a round root kohlrnbi is aaually a stem \'egetable created by cross-breeding cabbages and :JDip$. \\1len purchased, both the leaves (which are attached .krctI)' 10 the bulbous slem) and the I'QO{S are generally removed. rqll'I'KIing on the variety, the skin may be light green, purple green wilh a hint of red. TIle interior nesh is white, with a m1 83\'Or simil:lr 10 turnips. (Kohlrabi can be substituted I rumip in many recipes.) Younger plants are milder and I!m tender than large, lll:l1ure ones. 'nlc outer skin must be ft'!OOl'l'll from mature siems: young Siems need only to be well scmbl:>ed ld"ore cooking. Kohlrabi a m be eltten mw, or il call be cooked (whole, biordiccd) with mois(·llC3t cooking methods slIch as boiling and ste:l1111'1)1. The siems may :llso be hollowed out and Sluffed with meat or vegetable mtun'S.
Choose small, tender stems with fresh , green le;\ves. Peak season for Wtlrabi is from June through September.
.... C1lbbllge \300 cabbage, also known as Chinese cabbage, is widely used in Asian ,~
!t has a stout, elongated head with relatively tightly packed, pale green lea\'cs. It is moister and more tender than common JM and red Clbbages, with a milder. more delicate flavor. Nap.1 cabll13y Ix.> e:tten rJW but is panicularly well suited for stir-frying or faming. 0l00se heads with crisp leaves that are free of blemishes. Napa cab::1).," ~ arailable fresh all ycar.
&Iva)' Savoy G\bbage has curly or mmed leaves, often in variegaled sh:tdes of green and purple. (The term smKJyed is used 10 refer to any vegetable with bumpy, wavy or wrinkled leaves.) Savoy cabbage lends to be milder and more tender than regular cabbages and c:ln be substituted for them, cooked or uncooked. Savoy le:tves also make an altr:tctive garnish. Choose heads that are loose or tight, depending on the variet)" with tender, unblemished leaves. Peak season is from AuguSt through the spring.
Fruit-Vegetables ~
classify avocados, eggpla nts, peppers and tomatoes as fmits because d..,,·t'lop from the ovary of fl owering plants and contain one or more llds. Chefs. however, prep.. re and serve them like \'egetables: therefore they discussed here. ~'
include sever:tl varieties of pear-sh:lped fmits with rich, high-fat tNt, This light golden-green flesh surrounds a large, inedible, oval-shaped xtdfpit). Some V:lrielies have smooth, green skin; others have pebbly, almost tUck ,kin. Avocados should be used at lheir peak of ripeness, a condition that
Koblrtlbi
577
578
CIW'lr.R 22
lind creamy [e~ Ripe avocados should be soft 10 Ihe louch but 1101 mushy. Ripe Haas 11
[aslS only briefly. Firm avocados lack the desired flavor
dos have almost-black skins: the skins of the other varieties remain tJl when ripe. Firm avocados em be left at room temperature 10 ripen. then frigeraled for one or Iwa days. A\'ocados are most often used raw to AI'OCtlt/os
salads, mashed or pureed for sauces, sliced for sandwiches or dict'l.! omelclS. Avocado halves are popular containers for chilled meat. fish. sk. or poultr)' salads. Because avoc:tdo flesh turns brown ,'elY quickl}" MX dip avocado hal\'es or slices in lemon juice and keep unuS<.--c! portion., n,
covered with plastic wrap.
Choose avocados thm are free of blemishes or moist
SpOIS.
The flesh ~
be free of dark spots or streaks. Available all year. the peak season for lUI. avocados is April Ihrough OClober; for Fuenes a\'ocados, il is XOlt'ID through April.
PROCEDURE FOR Om'lNG ANO PIlTING Avoo\.l}os
I . Cut Ihe anx;tdo in h:tlf lenglhwise. Sepa~ue Ihe l"\vO halves with a twisling motion.
2. Insert a chefs knife into the pit and Iwist to remove.
3. Scoop the flesh OUI of the skm with a large lipoon.
EggjJltmts
Irestem Eggplall t
Two Iypes of eggplanls (Fr, (/u/Jergflw) arc commonly available: Asian western. Asian varieties are eilher round or long and thin, with skin ai ranging from cremny white to d{."Cp purple, Western eggplant.., whidJ more common in Ihe United States, lend 10 be shaped like a pear with a shiny lavender 10 purple-black skin. Both types lull' dense, khaki--
I'ECETABW;
M of the Ctlpsicllm family are n:tth'e to the New \X'orld. When ~di.scov hy Christopher Columbus, he called them "peppers- because of their imes fiery Oavor. TIlese peppers. which include sweet peppers and hot . (chiles), :Ire unrela\{.>(1 to peppercorns, the E:lst Indian (Asian) spice II.ruch Columbus was actually searching. Interestingly, New World peppers k1t ~dily accepted in Indian and AsillO cuisines, in which they are now staples. FreJI peppers arc found in a wide range of colors-green, red, yellow, or• purple or white-as well as shapes, from tiny te4lrdrops to cones to ~. They ha\"e dense flesh and a hollow centra! cavity. The Oesh is lined fI pl:Icental ribs (the white internal veins), to which tiny yellowish-white l'nb are auached. A core of seeds is also att:tched to the stem end of each '11". Ot~e peppers gel their he.1I from capsaicin. which is found not in the Oesh J..,'IXk., but in the placental ribs. Thus a pepper's heat C'Jn be greatly reduced clrdully removing lhe ribs and attached seeds. Generally, the smaller the ~.tlle hOlter it is. The amount of heal varies from variety to variety, howtr. and c\·en from one pepper 10 another depending on growing conditions. Ib dJ)' conditions result in hotter peppers than do cool, moist conditions. A Jl'IlI'k',:s heat can be measured by Scoville Heat Units, a subjective rating in Q:hilie sweet bell pepper usually rales 0 units, the jalapeno rates from 2500 ,((I unib, the t:tbasco rates from 30,000 to ;0,000 units and the habanero 1IJrI.1 whopping 100,000 to 300,000 units. lilt'll sclecting peppers, choose those that are plump and brilliamly colJ\\iIh smooth, unblemished skins. Avoid wrinkled, pitted or blistered pep-;tr- ,\ hrighl green stem indicates freshness.
~
579
G1l.V:tl Bell Pepper
Sireel Peppers Canmon sweet peppers, known :IS bell pepper,,;, are thick-walled fmits JJhk in gR.-en, red, yellow, purple, or;mge and other colors. They are tt-m·\haped or box)l, with :I shon stem and crisp flesh. TIleir flavor is warm, 11tr((red peppers tend to be the sweetest) and rebti\Iely mild. Raw bell peppm mal· be sliced or diced :lnd used in salads or sandwiches. Bell peppers ilII 3bo be stuffed and baked, grilled, fried , S:HJ1eed Of pureed for soups, ~ or condimellls. Green bell peppers lire available all year; other colors Jrmtlrc readily available during the summer and fall.
Red and l'ellow Bell Peppers
PlxmJRE FOR CtnTlNG PEPPERS J ULIENNE
L Trim off the ends of the pepper; rul Jway the seeds :md core.
2. Cut :tway the pale ribs, trimming the flesh 10 the desired thickness,
3. Slice the flesh in julienne.
580
• ClW'TI:'1{ 22
'""'P">
==
A PEPI'ER BY ANY OmEN NAME
nle popularity of South\\'estenl cuisine. hot condiments :tnd salsas has brought with it a flC\\' appreciation and resllect for chile<;. Diners, and chefs, may find tile nrune'l gi\'eIl [0 llle various chile<; confUSing. hQY.'e\'er. Most chile<; Crul be used eilllel' fre;h or dried; drying chrulgt5 not only the pepper's flamr, but also its nrune. Regional variations in chile naJlle'l also add to [he confusion. Several of tile more fre
Dried (Seco) MildRedorCahfomia Aneho or Pasti!la Pastllla or Negro Chipotle (smoked) Gualillo Nev.' Mexico Red Chile Colorado Paprika Mulato
Hot Peppers HQ{ peppers, also known :IS chiles, are also members of the Capsicum family. Although a chile's most chal'3eteristic attribute is its pungency, each chile aetu:llIy has a distinctive flavor, from mild and rich to spicy and sweet to fiery hot . Chiles are commonly used in Asian, Indian, MexiC'Jn ;md Latin American cuisines. TIle larger (and milder) of the hQ{ peppers, such as Anaheim and pobl:lno, am be stuffed and baked or s:llItced as a side dish. Most chiles, however, :Ire used to add flavor :lIld seasoning to sauces and other dishes. (clockwise from bol/omlt! Fresh chiles are available all year and arc also avail- Nt'" ({lid Green Sem1l11l, able canned in a va riety of processed for ms such as Greell 'Illd Hedjllltlpeito, Fellow HoI, Pobf' lIIoaM whole or diced roasted, pickled or marinated, A1Uibeim Chiles.
PROCEDURE FOR CoRING J AlAPENOS
Cut the jalapeno in half length\\l.'( Push the core and seeds out \\ilh your thumb, You can avoid bunting your fingen> by wearing rubVt:r gloves when working with hOI chh Dried chiles are widely used in l\.Iexic'lIl. Centl'3l American and SOI.IIh\\1!iem cuisines. They can be ground to create a powdered spice called chilb soaked in a liquid, and then purL'Cd for sauces or condiments. Drying r:ldicU alters the flavor of chiles, making them stronger and more pungent. JUs!;I$CO' type of fresh chile Cllllnot be substituted for another without altering 1 dil/J, flavor, so too dried chiles cannot be substituted without fl avor ch:mges. Choose dried chiles tim :lre cJe:Hl and unbroken. with some neililo Avoid any with white spots or ;t stale aroma, PROCEDURE FOR ROASrING PEPPERS
Dried Cbi!t.>s: (lop 10 00110111) Ctllijomitl, AllcJ)(). De Arboi
l. Roast lhe pepper over an open
flame until completely ch:lrrcd.
2. Place the pepper in a phstic 1xI~ to sweat for :1 few minutes, then remove the burnt skin and rinse under running w;\ter.
I~GmBLES
581
....',Ios brulilios. also known as j\'[exiC:H1 or husk tomatoes, grow on small, weedy
They are bright green, about the size of a small tomato, and arc co\'ttthith a thin, p..1pery husk. The}' have a tart, lemony flavor and crisp, moist ~ Allhough an import:mt ingredient in soulhwestem and northern Mexican CIlIUX'S. \om:llillos m:ly not be rC:ldily avaiktble in other areas. Tornalillos ca n Il't'll raw in s.1Iads, puriw for S
lOll/aNI/os
Choose tom:uillos whose husks are split but still look fresh. The skin shou ld plump. shiny and slightly sticky. They are available all year, with peak seaduring the summer :md fall.
:l.lloes (Fr. tamale or poll/me (/'Oll/Ollr, It. fXJmodoro) are available in a wide ntll't)' of colors and shapes. They vary from green (unripe) 10 golden yellow rubr red; from tin}' spheres (currant tomatoes) 10 huge, sqWII ovals (beefmkl Some, such as the plum tommo, have 100 of meaty flesh with only a k't "d'ds; others, such as the slicing tomatO, have lOts of seeds and juice, bUl mIj a few mealy membranes, All tormltOCs have a similar flavor, but the le v~ Ii sweetness and acidity vary depending on the species, growing comHbb and ripeness at harvcsl.
(clockwise from/oll'er right) Penr, ClJelT)~ 1'/11111 (llId Beefsteak TOll/aloes
f
F =============1'= I'Rb:::::;;''= '= ru='============== OF nil!
IN ci many spices, golden treasures and
JIIiltlSgent\ earlySpanish explorers returned ~ \lith items of much greater signifikmatoes, potatoo; and com. Unfortu-
, krth<S! \\ho financed the voyagers, ~le produce was not immediately ap-
=.this ~
Spanish and the Italians hailed the (lItilClle name comes from the A7.tec
kJmatll as an aphn:xiisiac-perhaps bed it<; resemblance to the human hc:utiI aniit'd from the New World during ~le aJIlUf)'. But eren Ihough tomatoo; soon pan of Spanish and Italian cuisines, 0Iher Europeans, New World colonists ' - Americans considered tomatoes poi(There is some truth to this notion: line; and leaves contain tomatine, an that can cause health problems.) Thus 1I:Il'f)t3lS and in many societies, only the ~"""" :lie lOmatoes. Tomato historians September 26, 1820, a red-lener day the pqllllar accepL'UlCe of the tomato, ftat day, the then-'I. ~ll-knowll eccentric C'Iblel ROOert Gibbon Johnson ate an entire tID! r.i tomatoes on the S:llem, New Jersey,
S
New
WORJ..D
courthouse stepS before a crowd of thousands -:md lived. lbmatres soon became one of ~le IT1QSt pqlular of all l'CgCtables. Similarly, the potato, first deJiI-ered to Eurore from its natil'e Peru b)' Francisco Pizarro in the 16th rentury, did nOl. \\-'in wide acct.'ptance in haute cuisine until AntoineAugustin Pannentier (1737- 1813), a French anny phannacist, induced King Louis XVI of f'rarlCe (reign m5-1793) to try one. He and his courtiers liked them so much they f!\'Cn beg:m lI'Caring potato blossom boutonni~res. Pannentier was ultimately honored for his starchy contribution 10 French cuisine by hal'ing se\'eral potato dishes named for him, such as polflge Pllrmentier (potato soup). Not only did Pannentier lobby for the acceptrulce of the potato as a foOO fil for a king, he also prophesied that the potato ".ould make starvation impossible. ]'otaloes ulti· mately did become a staple of many diets. But, sadly, the COIll'CTSe of Pannentier's ProllhCC}' came true during the Irish I'otato Fanline of 1846--1848, when a terrible blight destroyed [he potato cl'l:ll. Nearly 1.5 million people died, and an equal number emigrated
They brought with them a cuisine thaI incorporated potatoes; thus an appreciation of [he common JXlIato was reintroduced to its nati\'e land. When returning from his second I'oyage \0 ~le New \'i'orld, Columbus took com lIith him. Called I1wbiz or l1U1iZi' bj' \\'estlndian natil'l5, com had been a staple of Central American diets for at least 5000 years. Although Europearl'! did not actil'Cly shun com as they did tomatoes and pOI.atoes, com OC\-er really caug!1\ on in most of Europe. (As with another famous New W'orld import, com's origin was mistakenl), anributed by the British, Dutch, GernlarJS and Russians 10 llrrkey. They called conl "1\Jrkish wheat"; the 'lurks simpl)' called it "foreign grain.") GI'I;)II-l1 for human consumption mu<>tly in Italy, Spain and southwestern FrrulCC, com was and still is usually eaten ground and boiled as polenta. But despite arl unenthUSiastic European rereption, com's popularity qUickly spread II-ell be)'ond Europe: Within 50 years of Columbus's joumey, com was being cultimted in land<; as diSlant from the New \'I 'orld a'i China, India and subSahar:m Africa. 10 the United States.
582
C1WYf'!:'R 22
Because tomatoes are highly perishable, they are usually halYesied \\ mature but still green (unripe), then shiPl>ed to wholesalers who ripen rh in temperature- and humidity-oontrolled rooms. The effect on navOf and lure is unfommate. Tomatoes are used widely in 5.1bds. soups, 5:IUCes and haked dishes, are most often e:llen r;J\v, but em be grilled, pickled, pan-fried, fQ3:,rt sauteed as :1 side dish. Choose fresh lomatoes th:\t are plump with a smooth, shiny skin. The should be uniform and tme for the variety. Tomatoes are available aU \~ with a summer peak season for most varieties. J\'lany canned tOm;Jto proi. are also ;I\'ailable (for example, puree. paste. sauce or Slewed whole). :ll dried tomatoes.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING 1'01\11\10 CONCASSEE
1. With a paring knife, mark an X 011
the bottom of the tomalO just deep enough to penetrate the skin.
3. Using a paring knife, cut out the core and peel the tomato.
2. Blanch the tomatO in boiling water for 20 seconds: refresh dl
ice water.
4. Cut the tomato in half horizonuli :lnd squeeze out the seeds aoo juice.
5. Chop or dice the tomato a.1 desired for the recipe.
11F.Gl:.TABLES
~.
583
Ciill/'ds and Squashes I~~':;':~:~~,c;;~i~; gourd f:unily includes almost 750 species; its members are II
regions worldwide. Gourds are char.lCterized by large, complex with quick-growing. tr.liling vines and large lea\'es. Their flowers a often auracti,'e and edible. Although some members of the gourd family qin:ltoo in Africa, chayotes :lnd most squashes are native to the Americ ls. M ~-~lms
Qoyo/es 1k cluyote. also known as mcrlilOn or vegetable pear, is a food staple throughollt Central Americ:l. The vine bears slightly lumpy, pearshaped fnlits wilh a smooth, light green skin and a paler green flesh. There is a single white, edible seed in the cenler. ChaYOles are slarchy and vcry bland and are USllally combined with more flavorful ingredients. Thcy may be eaten raw, but their flavor and texlUre benefit from roasling, steaming. sauteing or grilling. Choose chayotes Ihal have well-colored skin wilh few ridges. Avoid those with very soft spots or bruises. '111eir peak season is the late fall and winter.
Ilnmbers tirumbers can be divided into two categories: pickling and slicing. 111e twO ~ 3re OQ( interchangeable. Pickling cucumbers include the cornielm. dill and gherkin. l1ley are n:.-'Cogniz:lble by their sharp black II white spines and are quite bitter when raw. Slicing cuamilers include the burpless, the seedless English (or hotblsel. lhe lemon (which is round and yellow) and the 0llIIlXlIl green market cucumber. Most have relatively thin m and may be marketed with a wax coating to prevcnt .:tltIlrt' loss and improve appearance. Waxed skins ~ld be peeled, All cucllmbers are valued for their .!frtoshing (ool !:lste :lnd astringency. Slicing CUClllllusually served raw, in Sts. TIle common varicties are all year, although peak season is from April through (from lefllo right) Pickling, Green and Hothollse CIlCllmbers
arc the fleshy fmilS of :1 large number of plants in the gourd family. Many l"3rieties arc available in a range of colors, shapes and sizes. Squashes OIl be classified as winter or summer based on their peak season and skin ~. All squashes have a center c::tvity filled with many seeds, although in mtt'f l':Jrietics, the cavity is more pronounced. Squash blossoms arc also (.>(1· They may be added 10 salads r:IW. dipped in bauer and deep-fried or I\ith cheese or meal and b:tked. Choose squashes with unbroken skins and good color for the variety. Avoid · squash with soft, moist SpOIS.
584
c'\!l,.
CHAP'J'/:'R 22
Spagbelli
Bullemlll
Winter Squasbes Winter squashes include the acorn, banana, butternut, Hubbard. purDJir and spagheui varieties. TIley have hard skins (shells) and seeds, neilher which is generally eaten. 11le flesh, which may be remo\'ed from the sheD. be fore or after cooking, tends to be sweeter and more slrongly flavored than til.: of summer squash. Wimer squashes should not be served raw; they an be baked, steamed or sauteed. Most winter squashes can also be pureed for.<;OOJl' or pie fillings. Their peak season is October through r-,·l:Irch.
Pllmpki"
Summer Squasbes Summer squashes include the pauypan, yellow crook· neck and lucchini varieties. The>, hllve soft edible skins and seeds that are generally not removed before cooking. Most summer squashes may be eaten raw, but are also suitable for grilling, sauteing, steaming or baking. Although summer squashes are now llvailable all year, their peak season is April through September. fellolll Crook"eck
Greens TIle term greens refers to a variet>' of leafy green vegetables that may be served raw, but are usually cooked. Greens have long been used in the cuisines of India, Asia and the Medirr· ranean and are an imponam pan of regional cuisine in the southern l'ok. States. Most have strong, spicy flavors. Mustard, sorrel, spinach. Swiss dtaru. dandelion and ntrnip greens fall into this category. n,e milder \':lrielk's greens that are almost always eaten raw include the lettuces discus.sed II Chapler 24, Salads and Sallld Dressings. Greens have an extremely high water content, which means Ihat ~ causes dmstic shrinkage. As a general nIle, allow 8 ounces (250 grams)!l1 ponion before cooking.
VEGEfAlJiJ.S
'"""
Choose roung, tender greens with good color and no limpness. Avoid fl\'Ib with
dl)'-looking stems or yellow leaves. Most greens are available fresh "year, especially from November through June. The more popular greens are lb:l available canned or frozen. I/uslard .\Iustard, a member of the cabbage family, was brought to America by early European immigrants. Mustard has large, dark green leaves with frilly edges. It & known for its assenive, bitler flavor. Mustard greens can be served raw in IObtb or used as garnish. Or they can be cooked, ohen with white wine, vinepi" and herbs. Choose crisp, bright green le:\ves without discoloration.
Sorrel Sorrel is an abundant :l11d rather ordinary wild member of IIie buckwheat family. Its tanness and sour fla vor are used
.!Soups and sauces and 10 accent other vegetables. It is fWlicularly good with fallY fish or rich me:lts. Sorrel 'flIes naturallr become the texture of a puree after m1j' a few minutes of mOist-heat cooking. Oloose leaves thaI are fully fornled , with no yellow
5<",,1
dtmishes.
S/Jil/(/ch Spiruch (Fr. (pillard ) is a versatile green that grows rapidly in It has smooth, bright green leaves allached to thin stems. _ may be eaten raw in s.1Iads, cooked by almost any moist-heat method, D:rowa\'ed or sauteed. It can be used in stuffings, baked or creamed dishes, "~or stews. Spinach grows in sandy soil and must be rinsed repeatedly in oil w:ner to remove :111 traces of grit from the leaves. It bruises easily and Ibookl be handled gently during washing. Stems and large midribs should be
m climates.
rrfoo\"ed.
Oloose bunches with crisp, tender, deep green leaves; avoid yellow leaves IJ those with blemishes.
Spinach
Sli.'iss Cbard ChJrd-ihe reference to "Swiss" is inexplicable-is a type of beel that does bl produce a tuberolls roo!. It is used for its wide, flat, dark green leaves.
bitter flavor, similar to pq:lPl'f}' mustard greens. The dark ~ ]ea\'es are long, slender and ().'qlIy indented. Turnip greens rf best eaten st~\med, saut("ed, biked or microwaved.
Turnip Greens
Swiss C/xmJ
585
586
-,a, CIfAPTER 22
Mushrooms and Truffles Mushrooms I'orttlbelltl
Pom Pom Blallc
I'orcin; (cepe or cep)
Mushrooms ( Fr. champig1loll; It. fimghl) are members of ,\ broad c:ltcgorr plants known as fungi. (Fungi hllve no seeds, stems or flowers: they reproo..a through spores.) Mushrooms have ;\ stalk with an umbrellalike top. Alt~ not actually a vegetable, mushrooms are used and served in much the sa. manner as vegetables, Several types of cultivated mushroom are available. They include the C!& mon (or white), shiitake, crimini (also known as the [talian brown). Slr.tl enokldake (also called enoki) and cloud ear (also known as wood earOl'Qj. nese black). Button mushrooms are the smallest, most immature foml ci lit common mushroom. The largest cultivated mushroom is the ponabella. \\iId is actually lin overgrown crimini; it can grow up to 6 inches (IS cenlimett'fl Clam SIJe/l in diameter. tI'lany wild mushrooms are gathered and sold by specialty purveyoo ft. Gtuse wild mushroom spores are spread around the world by air l'II rents, tJle Sllme item may be found in several areas, each with 3 diffd" ent common n:llne. Wild mushrooms have a stronger eanhy or IlIAtI' flavor thlln cultivated mushrooms, and should generally be cookedkfore eating. Mushrooms, whether cultivated or gathered from the wild. at': available fresh, canned or dried . Because mushrooms are comptlll'll of up to 80% water, dried products are often the most e<:on()llliQ" even though they may cost hundreds of dollars per pound. Drel mushrooms ClIO be stored in a cool, dry place for months. 'In'dI Hell oJtlJe Woods needed, they are rehydrated by soaking in warm water unlil ,Qt approximately 10-20 minutes. Choose fresh mushrooms that are dean, without soft or moist Spob I blemishes. Fresh cultivated mushrooms are generally llvailabJe all ycar; frdl wild mushrooms are available seasonally, usually during the summer and fh. Cultivated mushrooms with exposed gills (the ridges on the underside ofdt umbrellalike lOp) are old and should be avoided. Fresh mushroorn~ ClII Morel be refrigerated in an open con tainer for lip to five days. NomuI!r it is not necessary to peel mushrooms; if they are din)'. they shouII be quickly rinsed (not soaked) II cool water just before use.
WlJite
~ === MUSIIROOJI SAFETY Some mushrooms are deadly; oUlers can cause severe illness. Picking edible mushrooms in Ule wild is not simply a process of comparing specimens "vith photographs or illustrations in a guidebook. So, do not gather mushrooms from the wild unless you :Ire :lccompanied by a .vell-trained, experienced mrcologist or gUide. Always purchase wild mushrooms from replll.1ble plll"eyors.
Truffles
Oyster
•
Tmffles are actually tubers that grow near the roots of oak or beech trees. They can be cultivated only to the extent that oak groves are planted to encourage tmffle growth. The two principal varieties are the Pdigool (black) and the Piedmontese (white). Fresh truffles are gam. ered in the fall and are rarely marketed outside their loole Truffles, especially white ones, have a strong aroma andfh. vor, requiring only a small amount to 10:1 their special flavor to soups, sauces, pasta an! Black TmjJfes
."•
I'F..Cl!TAlJ~
587
.l!l'r items. l3lack tmffles are often used as a garnish or to flavor p;ites, ter. c.- egg dishes. i3ecluse fresh imponed tnlffles can cost sever-II hundred IIlr.l per pound, mOSI kitchens purchase tnlffles canned, dried or processed.
Pmnt.:RE
FOR FUJrING M USHROOMS
Use the sharp edge of a straight paring knife to Cllt thin cun'es into the mushroom cap. Fluted mushrooms may be baked Of poached, then used as garnish.
Onions ~ lIS
are stronglr flavored, arom:ltic members of the Iilr familr. ~ I ost have gf3&.likc or tubular leaves. Almost every culmre incorporates them into ,ui.,ine as a veget:lble and for fl:LVoring.
unon or bulb onions (Fr. oigl/ol/s) In:ly be white, yellow (Bermuda ~ni.sh ) or red (purple). Medium-sized }'ellow and white onions
Ilk: most stronglr flavored. Larger onions tend to be sweeter wi miklcr. Widely us<.>(! a.s a flavoring ingr(."(licm, onions are
R
~'~1\.SJble in mirepoix. Onions are also prepared as a side dish dt\'p-frying. roasting, grill ing, steaming or Ix>iling. ~Jrl onions :I re small. about 1/2 inch (1.25 centimeters) in ttmcter, with yellow or white skins, They It:lve a mild flavor and CUI he grilled, boiled, roasted or sauteed whole as ;1 side dish , or I'ellow Ollioll kISt'd in :iOUpS or stews, Choose: onions thm arc firm . dry :mel feel hea\'Y- The outer skins \li)Jld be dl)' and brittle. A\'Oid onions that have begun to sprow. They !Ill lid be stored in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. Do 110t refrigerate onions ;Ail tht.'y are cut. Onions are ava ilable all year.
(Fr. ail, Sp. ajo) is also used in almost all the world's . A head of garliC is compoS(.>d of many sl11:111 cloves. Each )e 15 \\'r:\ppcd in a thin husk or peel; the entire head is ,J.'
Pear! Olliolls
Slx/I/ots
-i l,;.
;OC
Wbile Onions
588
c"!a.
CHAPTER 22
Choose finn, dry bulbs with tightly dosed cloves and smooh skn. Avoid bulbs with green sprouts. Store fresh garlic in a cool. , venlilated place; do not refrigerate. Fresh garlic is :n:lilatr. year. Jars of processed and pickled garlic products af(' 1.'-: available.
leeks Leeks (Fr. po/reall:!] look like large, overgrown san; with a fat white lip and wide green leaves. Their flaltu sweeter and stronger Ihan .scallions, but milder than coo mon bulb onions. Leeks must be CArefully washed to fen» the sand}' soil thaI gelS between the leaves. Leeks C3!I ~ baked, braised or grilled as a side dish, or used to season ~1Xt soups or sauces. Choose leeks that are firm , with stiff roolS and sIems. Avoid those withiJI leaves, soft spots or browning. Leeks are available all year.
PROCEDURE FOR CLEANING LEEKS
I . Trim the root end from the leek.
2. Cut away the dark green tOp and slice Ihe white !X'llion in half lengthwise.
3. Rinse the leek thoroughly uJ"Kl>r running water to remO\'e soil
Scallions
Scalliolls
Scallions, also known as green onions or bunch onions, are the imrnallll: green Slalks of bulb onions. TIle leaves are bright green with either a long m! slender or slightly bulbous white base. Green onions are used in stir-friesJoo as a flavoring in other dishes. "nle green tops can also be sliced in small ~ and used as a garnish. Choose scallions with bright green tops and clean white bulbs. A\'oid dkp( with limp or slimy leaves. Scallions are available all year, wilh a peak SUlllID:f season.
Siml/ois ShallolS (Fr. ech%tes) are shaped like small bulb onions with one fl~1
VEGETABLES C'\!l.
589
/\xis and Seeds roo and seed vegetables include corn, legumes and okra. They are grouped ~
here because the parts consumed aTC all rile seeds of their respective seeds are eaten; in others, the pod containing Ii! «tds is eaten as well. Seeds are generally higher in protein and carbohy~. In some cases, only the
bes (51:1rch and fiber) than other vegetables.
"'" rom (Fr. Site!
mais. Sp. maiz) is actually a grain, a type of grass, Com ker-
filike peas, are plant seeds. (Dried corn products are discussed in Chapter ll, Potatoes. Grains :lnd Pasta.) The kernels, which may be white or yellow, Itlttached to a woody, inedible cob. The cob is encased by sLrands of hair.. ftbers called silks and covered in layers of thin leaves called husks. The lib and husks should be shucked prior 10 cooking, although the husks may Ir kft on for roasting or grilling. Shucked cars can be grilled, boiled, mi-
or steamed. The kernels can be cut off of the cob before or after OXlking. Corn on the cob is available fres h or frozen; corn kernels are availilIe canned or frozen . Choose freshly picked ears with firm , small kernels. Avoid those with mold cr decay at the tip of the cob or brownish silks. Summer is the peak season tr fresh corn. aDI\"J,\'ed
/IJc!ooRE
Yellow and White Carll
FOR ClfITlNG KERNELS OFF EARS OF CoRN
Hold the cob upright and use a chefs knife to slice off the kernels.
Itpmes Beans (Fr. baricots, It. !agiolio) and peas (Fr. pais) are members of the legume &miIy, a large group of vegetables with double-seamed pods containing a sin~ lOW of seeds. Of the hundreds of known varieties of beans, some are used ix their edible pods, others for shell ing fresh and some only for their dried lCfds. Dried Ix!ans are actually several varieties of seeds or peas left in the pod 1IIiIll13ture, then shelled and dried.
Green Beans
Fresb Beans Beans used for their edible pods, commonly referred to as green beans, runner beans or snap beans, are picked when immature. Except ixtbestcm, the entire pod can be eaten. This categol)' includes the American pttn bean, the yellow wax bean and the French haricot Yen, a long, slender p::d \lith an intense flavor and tender texture, If there are any strings along !be pod's seams, they should be pulled off before cooking. Beans may be left ,000e, cut lengthwise into thin slivers (referred 10 as French cut) or cut cross'be on the diagonal. Iring beans,
lIarieo/s I'erts
590
CHAPTER 22
Shelling beans :lre Ihose grown primarily for the edible seeds inside iIr pod. Common examples are flageolets, lima beans and fava (broad) n TIleir laugh pods are nOI usually emen. All beans can be preparc:.-'d by steaming. microwaving or sauteing. Theyca be added 10 soups or stews, and they blend well with a \'ariery of fla\"()!s. m. coconul milk to garlic and oli\'e oil. Cookc.-'d beans can be chilled and send as a salad or cmdite. Choose beans Ih:11 have a bright color without brown or soft spolS. llIJ pods may be tough or bitter. The ])C,tk season for fresh beans is from.~ through December. Most bean varieties are available frozen or canned. indlJJ. ing pickled and seasoned products.
Dried Black-eyed /'eas
lentils
Red Kidney Beans
Dried Beans Anthropologists repon th:lI for thousands of years cultures worldwide luIt preserved some members of the legume family by drying, Common dried beans include kidney beans. pinto be,IOS, chickpc:ts, lentils, black lX'alI. black-eyed peas and split green peas. Shape is the clearest distinction arrKq these products: Beans are oval or kidney-shaped; lentils are small. nat dislt peas are round. Beans and peas destined for drying are left on the vine untit they are fuIr matured and JUSt beginning [0 dry. They :Ire then harvested, shelled mI quickly dried with warm air currents. Some dried legumes are sold split. wbd means the skin is removed, C'Jusing the seed's two halves to separate. Most dried beans need to I)C soaked in water before cooking. Sooking d ens and rehydI
.~~~~~~~ Great Nor/hem Beans
PROCEDURE FOR SoAKING DRUID BEANS 1. Pick through the dried beans and remove any grit, pebbles or debris. 2. Place the beans in a bowl and cover with cold water; remove any skinsu
other items that float 10 the surface. 3. Drain the beans in a colander. then rinse under cold mnning water. 4, Rerurn the beans to a bowl and cover with fresh cold water. Allow approximately 3 cups (750 milliliters) of water for e:tch cup of beans. 5. Soak the l)Cans in the cold water for the time specified in the recipe. usually several hours or overnight. Drain through a colander, discardingtlr water.
I'£GETABILS
~ !(l;Iking
".,
591
procedure can be accelerated by the following technique:
1 Rinsl' and pick throllgh the beans. 1 Pbce the beans in a saucepan and :Idd enough cool water to cover them ~. 2 inches (5 centimeters). j Bring to a boil and simmer for 2 minutes. f. Remol'e from the heat, cover and SO:lk for I hour. I Drain and discard the so:lking liquid. Proceed with the recipe.
,
Frtsb Sbellillg Peas Of tlK> shelling pellS th:lt are prepllred fresh, the most common are grccn pWt ]X"JS (English pe:ls) and the French petit pois. Because they lose flavor apidl)' after harvest, most shelling peas are sold frozen or canned . Shelling ~ h.wc a delicate, sweet fl:lvor best presented by simply steaming until ten., but still al dente, Pells may :lIsa be braised with rich meats such as ham Irux-d in soups. Cooked pe:lS are allractive in salads or as garnish. Oxlose small fresh pea pods that are plump and moist. Peak season is April DI "ay.
Fresh Shellillg Peas
Edible Pea IJods )00\\' peas, also known as Chinese pea pods, are a common variety of edtie pea pod. TIley are flat and have only a few very small green peas. Snow jk2.'i hale a string along their seams th:lt C".tn be removed by holding the leafy WID and pulling from end to end. 111e pods can be eaten raw, lightly IIIm:hed or steamed, or stir-fried . .\!xXher \
1Ir\' are plump. juky pods filled with small, tender peas. The entire pod is .-n; do not shell the peas before cooking. Oxlose pea pods that are firm, bright green and crisp. Avoid those with P1l spots or a shriveled appear:lnce. Pea pods are available all ye:lf, with a pm season in March and April.
SIIQw l'etl$
.00
-.
Roots and Tubers ~ (more commonly referred to as rools) are single roots that extend *rp into the soil to supply the ;Ibove-ground plant with nutrients. Tubers are ilWlderground stems. Mos! roots and tubers Gill be used interchangeably. All
Okm
592
~
CIWfFJI 22
====== -
T Of V
=====
Tofu or bean cum (Fr. tremendous l'ariety 0{ fromage de soja) is a staple of Japaoo;e and Chi~ cuisines and is gaining acceptance in American kitchens because of iffi high nuwid ",.." "'''~ .. tritional value, low cost fried or saul€ei [ :Uld fla\'or adaptability. is bland, but it readily lbfu is made by processing soyOal'ors from other ingredients. Silk Tofll beans into "milk," which is then Thu types of tofu are coagulated (nowadays with calcium available: cotton and silk. sulfate). TIle curds are then placed in a perfo-- tofu is the most common. Its texture' rated mold lined with doth and pressed with a with all irregular surt'ace caused ""'eight to remove the liquid. The result IS a of the CO\lOn fabric in which it is soft, creamy-white substance similar to ch~. pressing. Silk tofu has a sil~'Y'smoo!h Tofu is easy to diges~ \'ery high in protein, v.ith ance and texture, and a SOflle',\'hat \'el)' little fat and sodium and no cholesterol. calf flavor. Unlike conon tofu, Tofu is an ancient foodstuff, probably cre- not been pressed out of silk tOOl_ ated in Olina during the 2nd century .... 0. It quen~y, silk tofu should not be adaI was introduced to Japan by Buddhist priests high temperatures or for a I during the 8th rentul)' and was '" disool'efed"' falls apart easily. l1le use by Western tral'elers during the 17th century. most recipes is simply a matter d Today, Japanese tofu is said to be the finest, preference. perhaps because of the superiority of the 50)'Fnsh tofu is usually packaged . beans grov.Tl in the Yamato region, near the should be refrigerated and kepI in city of Kroto. Japanese cuisine values the nat- used. If the water is drained aOO ural flavor and texture of tofu and uses it in a daily, the tofu should last for one week.
of""'" ""
sto re weI! a1 cool tempe ratures, without refrigeration. Po tatoes, the ulaf tuber, are discussed in Chaple r 23, Potatoes, Gmins and Pasta.
Beets Although records suggest that they were first eaten in ancient Greece, most often associated with the colder northern climates, where [hey ... b most of the year. Beets can be boited, then peeled and used in salads, or baked dishes. Choose small (0 medium-sized beets that are timl, with smooh skins.. \ those with hairy roo{ tips, as they may be laugh. Beets are "",,," I,le3l1><.. with a peak season from j\Iarch to October.
Carrots Carrots, (Fr. carolte) among the most vers.Jtite of veget:lbles, are large tt r OOlS. Although sever,,1 kinds exisl, lhe Imperator is the most common. n B long and pointed, with a medium to dark orange color. It has a mild, S\"(d
VEGETABLES
I({
CaITOlS can be cut into
:1
'"""
variety of shapes and eaten raw, used for a
Ift'POiX or prep:lred by moist-heat cooking melhods, grilling, microwaving
roasting. They are also grated and used in baked goods, particularly cakes II! muffins. Cloo::;e finn carrolS Ihal are smooth and well shaped, with a bright orange .::n If the lOps arc slill attached, they should be fresh-looking and brighl pmI CarrolS are available all }'e:tr.
~. rOOI,
also known as celeriac, is a large, round root, long popular in
Iltlkm F.lImpe:m cuisines. It is a different plant from stalk celery, and
tI-ulk.:; and leaves are nOi eaten. Celery'rbpl has a knobby brown aktior: a creamy while, crunchy flesh and a mild, celel)'like flaIU'. I~ thick allier skin must be peeled away; the flesh is ttn cut as desired. Oflen eaten raw, celery root can b: Ilaked, steamed or boiled. It is used in soups, stews or sa l:lds and goes well with game and rich meats. Rawcel~ ery root mlly be placed in aciduI:Hed water to prevent browning. Choose small to medium-sized rooLS that Cfier:J'Root are firm and rellllively clean, with a ~t smell. Their peak season is October through April.
Currots
,..,.
,kJntt i:; actually a legume that grows underground as a tuber. It is becoming
o:msingly popular because of its sweet, moist flavor, crisp texture, low calo~COOlent and long shelf !Lfe. After iLS thick brown skin is cut away, the crisp, rnst white flesh can be cut as desired. Jic;ulla is often eaten raw in salads, lill sals.1 or as a Cfildite. It is also used in stir-fried dishes. Choose firm, well-shaped jicamas thai lIre free of blemishes. Size is nOi an wtion of quality or maturity. They are available all year, with a peak seaIJW\ from January through r-.-Iay. I'orsllips
lII!1Iifis Pmnip!. (Fr. /XlJ1ois) :Ife taprooLS that look and taste like white carroLS and kilt the
texture of sweet potatoes. Parsnips should be 5 to 10 inches (1 2.5 to .c""_~
!'\ ('\'Iltimeters) in length, wilh smooth skins and tapering tips. Parsnips, pme.d like carrots, can be eaten raw or cooked by almost any method. When
t:2I1Ied until very soft, they ca n be mashed like potatoes. ~ small to medium-sized parsnips that are firm, smooth and well 'iIIped; al'oid large, woody ones. Parsnips are available all year, with peak ~ from December through April.
IJIisbes blMes (Fr. mdis) are used for their peppery flavor and criSp texture. b.\t)1ies are available in many colors, induding white, black and all shades It red; most have a creamy to pure white interior. Asian radishes, known as
Red Radishes
593
594
CIW%W22
d:tikons, produce roots 2
to
4 inches I;
10 centimeters) in di:1l11CICr and 610 inches ( I; 10 20 cemimelers) Radishes C:1I1 be S{e3med or
fried , but most often arc ea r
gJ'el.'Ib
Choose r.tdishcs that are fp n01 limp. Their interior 100 be neither dry nor hoIh Radishes are <Jv:tilable aJJ p:.!I
Rutabagas RlItab:lgas :ll"e a root vegetable and a 111<._ of the cabbage f:UlliJy. 111eir skin is purpk
yellow. and they h:l ve yellow flesh with a disIur live st:1r(;hy, cabbageli ke flavor. l~lItabagas and lumiJl:l. similar in flavor and texture when cooked and may be used interchangw
Daikoll
Rutabaga leaves are nOi eaten. Rutabagas should be peeled with a \"egw;
peeler or chers knife, then cut into quarters, slices or cubes. TIler lre litbaked, boiled and then pureed, or sliced and SautL"C(1. They are especiaill vorful when seasoned with car:JW3Y seeds, dill or lemon juice. Choose small to medium-sized rutabagas that lire smooth, firm and ~ heavy. Their peak season is January through March. RllillixtgllS
Turnips
Also a root vegetable from the cabbage family, turnips h:l\'e white skin \I a rosy-red or purple blush and a white interior. l11eir flavor. simibt that of a radish, can be rather hot. Turnips should be peeled. ~ diced, sliced or julienned for cooking. They may be baked cooked wit h mOist-heat cooking methods, and are often pur('t'(] potatoes. Choose sm:.11 to medium-sized turnips that have smooth I and feel he:I\')'. They should be firm, nOt nlbbery or limp. AllY. tached leaves should be bright green and tender. Spring is tiki rurnips peak season.
Stalks Cel lulose-A complex rorboh)Y1mle!Ol/I/{J ill lIN cell 11'1111 ofp/tll/Is: il is imJigf:Sllbie b)' hUIIIOII$.
Arlic/)okes
Stalk vegetables are plant stems with a high percentage of cellulose fi~ These vegetables shou ld be picked while still young and tender. Tough Iit't'l!' should be !rimmed before cooking.
Arlicbokes Allichokes (Fr. m1icballt) :Ire the immature flowers of a thistle plant um duced to America by Iwlian :md Spanish settlers. Young, tender gIoI.r ~ chokes can be cooked whole, but more mature pl:ints need to ha\·e the- fwlI center (known as the choke) removed first. Whole artichokes can be mered, steamed or microwaved; they :Ire often served with lemon juice. gartl bUller or hollandaise sallce. The he:lI"! may be cooked separately, then sent'll in salads, pureed as a filling or served as a side dish. Allichoke hearts Jndln· tOIllS are bOlh available canned.
VFlJhTABLf~
0I00se fresh artichokes with tight, compact heads that feel heavy. nleir should be solid grt'Cn to gray·green. Brown sp<>{s on the surface caused arc hannless. Artichokes' peak season is l\hrch through May.
PlKIIlURE FOR PREPARING FRESH ARTICIIOKES
.. [~ng
kitchen shears or scissors,
trim the barbs from the large outer
leal'es of the artichoke.
2. With a chers knife, cut away the stem and the top of the artichoke. Steam or boil the artichoke as desired.
(Fr. asperges), a member of the lily fam il}', has bright green spears rume of tiny leaves at the tip. Larger spears tend to be tough and bu1 can be used in soups or for purt.-e. Asparagus are eaten raw or stir-fried, microwaved or grilled. Fresh spring asparagus is ex· \\'ith nothing more than lemon juice or cI;trified butter; aspltragus with ,W,ndaisesauce is a classic preparation. Ooose finn. plump spears with tightly dosed tips and a bright green color the full length of the spear. Asparagus should be stored, refrigerated , upright in 1/2 inch (1.2; centimeter) of water or with the ends mppeom moist paper toweling. They should not be washed until just before Canned and frozen asparagus are also available. Peak season is March
"''''''I>''''''y"
'";.\'r;~);;;:'n\'ariety of white asparagus is sometimes available fresh, or read·
ily available canned. It has a milder nltVOr and soft, tender texture. It is produced by covering the stalks with soil as they grow; this prevents sunlight from reaching the plant and retards the de\'elop· ment of chlorophyll .
CelelJl Once a medicinal herb, stalk celef)' (Fr. cefen) is now a common sight in kitchens worldwide. Stalk celef)' is pale green with stringy curved stalks. Often eaten nlW in 5.1lads or as a snack, il can be braised or steamed :IS ,I side dish. Celef)' is also a mirepoix component. Choose sl:tlks that are crisp, without any sign of dryness. Celery is available all year.
ASjxlrtlglts
""",,
595
596
~
CIIAi'IDI 22
Fennel Fennel (Fr. lel/olli/) is a Mediterranean favorite used for thousands of yem» a vegetable (the bulb), an herb (the leaves) and a spice (the seeds), fie bulb (oflen incorrectly referred to as sweet anise) has soon. ti;!l overlapping celerylike stalks with feat hery leaves. TIle fla\"Or is saHar 10 anise or licorice, becoming milder when cooked. 11m! bulbs may be eaten raw or grilled, steamed, sauteed, baked 0/. crowavoo. Choose a fairly large, bright white bulb on which the cut edges. pear fresh, without dryness or browning. The bulb should be cOlTlll't not spreading. Fresh fennel's peak season is September through Maf
Nopales Felllle!
The pads of a prickly pear cactus can be prepared as a vegetable known» nopales. Cactus p:lds have a fl:IVor similar to green Id peppers. Their texture tends to be r.nher gelatinOllSIL mucilaginous, making them good for SleM If sauces. To prepare fresh nopales, hold the pat with tongs and cut ofT the thoms and .~"O with a sharp knife or vegetable peeler. Till ofT the edge all the way around. Slicedr pad into julienne strips or culJes. 1Ir pieces can be boiled or steamed aaJ served hot, or chilled and added to sabl Nopales C'd n also be saU1£>ed wilb c:xOOl peppers and seasonings for a side dish added to southwestern-style casseroles. Some cultivated varieties have thin, thornless pads. Choose pads th2l It stiff and heavy without blemishes. TIley should not be dry or soggy. Freshex tus pads are available .1[[ year, with peak season in the late spring. CannedaaJ pickled nopales are also :IVail:lble.
Baby Vegetables Many fine restaUr.lnts serve baby vegetables: tiny turnips, finger-length sqwi miniature carrots and petite heads of caulinower. First cultivated in Europe~ now widely available throughollt the United States, baby vegetables im both hybrids bred to be tnEe miniatures as well as regular varieties that 311: picked before maturity. Baby vegetables are often marketed with blossom)!r greens still attached. They tend to be easily bruised and are highly perishaIt Many baby vegetables can be eaten raw, but they are usually len whole. Ita steamed or lightly sauteed and attractivel), presented as an accompanirnel1 meat, fish or poultry entrees.
&by Yellow Sqllosh with Blossoms Cbioggbl &'(Its
&Iby Zucchini with Blossoms
&Iby Globe CilrrQls
VEGETABlES
========= ~
c"'\!\.
597
==========
ANCIENT P LMTS AND
Af\'ClF..\T WAfS VANISII
isn"",d.,ysol'Co]"mb,,,s, half of all native l'lll'ieties hall! become extinct. If
.:~:"i::' 5e\'eral hundred more \\;11
•
.,..,!
in our lifetimes. Similarly, an·
P''''''''' have all but been aban· as the 1920s, the Tohono Indians of Arizona still used tradi·
•Ii]';''''''''' 11m".,· fields remai".
Today, six highly bred species-wheat, rice,
com, sorghum, rotatoes and cassava-supply most of the world's nutrition. As food crops become more and more homogeneous, they often lose their natural ability to tolerate pests, disease and drought. In the past, famlciS grew thousands of food crop varieties. lhcse traditiona clqI varieties contain a storehouse of genetic diversity thai enables them 10 flourish in the most difficult environments. l1lis broad
then SJX'Cies disappear Ite lose an irre· SOOrte of genetic dil-ersity-a source that could someday imWhen natil'e desert 00es the ancient tradition of .... 'i'cu'"o. which has selected these millennia to thril'e In extreme tern·
spectrum of genetic variability is a cushion
millions of without expeo1:~':':~i~:SO;;i~1s andII-;thout
first regional seed banks, \\'35 founded 10 keep ancient desert plants and traditional fanning methods from disappearing fOre'l'er. Since 1983
destructive chemicals.
22.1
against natural predators and diseases. wild chiles from the Sierra Madre, for example, are highly disease resistant. Their lirus-tolerant
genes have been bred into commercial varieties of bell pepper and jalapenos.
\\'e'\,e ridden mules into remote areas and made more than 1200 collections of desertadapted crops and wild relatill!S. We'l'e gathered the seeds of chapalote (a bllJ\\lI popcorn), blue indigo (used for dyes), tepary (a heat- and drought-tolerant bean), teosinte (a \\;Id relath'e of com), wild chiles and other plants. TIlese seeds are available to researchers, gardeners, fanners and seed banks. Seeds are offered free to Natire Americans. Each loss of biological and cultural diversity alters and danlages the balance of life on earth, often in ways we do not understand. Each loss of leaf, stem and fk:I',1,w diminishes our earth·s richness and beauty in ways \\'e often don't appreciate until they're gone.
Native SeedslSF.ARCH, one of the country's DR. GARY P.wL NAIIIIA'"
NAlTI'E SEHJ5/SEARCH
Tucson, AriZOtU'l
,n, NurRlTlON.>IL VALUES OF SELECfED VEGIITABlES
PrOlein
K<;<1
28 32 , boiled and drained 24 48 white, raw
(g)
29
Carbohydrates Fiber Total Fat Vitamin A 'Vitamin C Calcium 1ro" (g) (mg) (mg) (g) (g) (mg) O;U.)
3A
5 5.7
11
5A
\.2
11.6
122
38
28 44 32
2A
28.5 5.2 9.6 7.2
155
48 26 24 16
12
0.9 c 2.9 d 0.7 c
OA OA
1586
0.3
96
28.8 85 27
3.6 d 4.2 d 1.6 d 2d 2d 4.5 d
OA
32,404
IJ.2
1.5
247 0 0 585 2.6 42
6.9 5.8 6.7 56.3
737 1
9
12A 122
645 100
20.2
5
0.;
2.7
4.5
0.1
1.2 9.3 32
29.1
3A
43
0.8 1.2
5.2
2.8 d 2.5 d 1.6 d
3.2
0411
8A
OA OJ 0.4 0.6
OA OJ OA OJ
896
T. Netzer Ellcyclopedla of Food Values 1992 fiber (;I. designation given to a less·accurate measurement of fiber content) fiber (a dcsign:lIion given to a nt:wer and more :Iccurate measurement' of fiber content)
2.6 17.2
39.6 52 37.5 30.4
2.8 5.8 21.3
8.7 5303
1
0.9
OA 0.6 0.7 1.3 0.2
OA 2.9 0.6 3.2
598
CIlAP!ER 22
NUTRITION MOSI vegclables are morc than 80% waler; the remaining portions consist bobydratcs (primarily starches) as well as small amounts of protein and t. relative lack of protein and fat makes most vegetables especially low in fI'luch of a vegetable's physical SimQure is provided by ge"n~l~e.~rn'~II:()'~;~~~:: substances such as cellulose and lignin, also known as fiber. ,. the chamclerislic stringy, crisp or fibrous textures associated with I'cgelables. Vegetables arc also a good source of vitamins and minCJ
taken during preparation \0 preserve their nutritional content, howCI'er. peeled or cut, vegetables lose nutrients 10 the air, or to any liquid in they are allowed to 5O.1k. Vitamins aTC concemrated just under the
peel vegetables thinly, if al all.
PURCHASING AND STORiNG FRESH VEGETABLES Fresh vegetables should be selected according to season:tl availability, vegetable at the peak of its season has several advantages: Price is"at eSI, selection is at ils greatest and the vegetable's color, O:tvor and al their best.
t".re.
Grading ,~ystem for fresh vegetables traded wholesale markets, TIle system is based on appearance, condition and
TIle USDA has a voluntary gr:lding
factors affecting waste or eating quality. Grades for all vegcwbles ' descending order of quality, U.S. Extra Fancy, U.s. Fancy, U.S. Extr:l No. I U.S. No. I. There are also grades thai apply only to specific vegetables, :tmple, U.S. No. I Boilers for onions. Consumer or retail grading is currently required only for pomoes.
and onions, It uses :tlphabeticaJ listings, with Grade A being the fines!.
Purchasing Fresh vegetables are sold by weight or count. They arc packed in rerred to as Cdses, lugs, bushels, flals or crates. The weighl or coon! each of these containers \'aries depending on the size and type of '·eg<.....
well as the packer. For example, celery is packed in 55-pound canons wining 18--48 heads depending on the size of each head . Some of the more common fresh vegetables (for ex,lmple, onions. celery and lettuces) can be purchased from wholesalers trimmed, d~,
diced onions than for whole onions, for example, the s..wings in time. yield loss llOd storage space can be substantial. Processed vel!e"tbl" oj fer a loss of nutrients, moisture and flavor. however.
"r
Ripening Although vegetables do not ripen in the &1me manner as fnJits, the), tk, '"' tinue to breathe (respire) after harvesting. The faster the respiration rate. fllster the produce :lges or decays. This decay results in wilted lea\·es
l'ECerABlF.S
~.
or woody stems and stalks. Respiration rntes vary according to the vegl'lriefy, ilS maturity at harvest and its storage conditions after harvest. ~ing proceeds more rnpidly in thc presence of ethylene gas. Ethylene I.\t'Olined n:uurally b)' fruits and vegetables and can be used to encourage ripening in some produce, espcciall)' fruit-\'egetables such as tomatoes. lur\'e~;(ed and shipped when mature but green (unripe) can be exposed ~iene gas to induce color dcvelopment (ripening) just before sale.
fresh vegetablcs are best stored at cool temperntures, between 40°F and ffFWC-16°C), ideally in a separnte producc refrigerntor. lllese include win~!QIl3sh, potatoes, onions, shallots and garlic. If a produce refrigerator is not mable, store these vegctables at room temper
PURCHASING AND STORING PRESERVED VEGETABLE) PIr!er.'ation techniques are designed to extend the shelf life of vegetables.
!toe methods include irradiation, canning, freezing and drying. Except for *mg, these techniques do not substanti:dly change the vegetable's texmre furor Canning and freezing can also be used to preserve cooked veg-
11&
Irradiated Vegetables Trt irradiation process uses ionizing radiation (usu;dly gamma rays of cobalt IX
cesium 137) to sterilize foods, When foods are subjected to radialion,
pnrtes. insects and bacteria are destroyed, ripening is slowed and sprouting ~\'emed. irradiation works without a noticeable increase in temperature; a:rrequently, the naval' and texture of fresh foods are not affected. Some nuI'rI'1\ howe\'er, may be destroyed. Irr::ldiatcd vegetables do not need to be lJIl)-ctl "'jth post-haryes! peStiCides, and they have an extended shelf life. lhl' FDA classifies irradiation as a food :.dditive. Although not yet approved .dI foods, grains, fruitS and vegetables may be treated with low-dose radiIIXI Irradiated foOOs must be labeled ~Treated with radi:llion~ or ~Treated b)' D:ilhon: The symbol shown in Figure 22.1 may also be used. Inldilled produce is purchased, stored and used like fresh produce.
VJllIled Vegetables CDIed regelables are the backbone of menu pl:tnning for many food service ~uons. In commercial canning, raw vegetables are cleaned and placed in ~Il'd contliner, then subj(."'Ctcd to high temperatures for a specific period. IlaIing dcstroys the microorganisms that cause spoilage, and the sealed envi-
FIGURE 22.1
/rmdlo/ioll Symbol
599
600 ..."..
CHAP'lBR 22
ronment created by the can eliminates oxidation and retards decompositim But the heat required by the ca nning process also softens the texture of nXII vegetables and alters their nutritional content; many vitamins and mii,<ern, m,,: be lost through the canning process. Green vegetables may also suffer loss, becoming a drab olive hue. Canned vegetables are graded by the USDA as U.S. Grade A or Fane)" Grade B or Extra-Select, and U.S. Grade C or Standard. U.S. Grade A bles must be top quality, tender and free of blemishes. U.S. Grade C . bles may lack uniformity or flavor, but can be used in casseroles or ~ COSt is a concern. Combinations of vegetables as well as vegetables with seasonings sauces are available canned. For example, corn kernels are available in water, in seasonings and sauces, combined with other vegetables creamed. Canned vegetables are easy to serve because they are fully cooked during the canning process. Canned vegetables are purchased in cases of standard-sized cans pendix II). Canned vegetables can be stored almost indefinitely at room perature. Once a can is opened, any unused contents should be Irn,osf,'rred. an appropriate storage container and refrigerated. Cans with bulges should diSCarded immediately, without opening.
Frozen Vegetables Frozen vegetables are almost as convenient to use as canned. However, often require some cooking, and expensive freezer space is necessary if vemory is to be maintained. Regardless, freezing is a highly effective for preserving vegetables. [t severely inhibits the growth of mi':'O()~.... Ill" l GlUSe spoilage without destroying many nUlriems. Generally, green etables retain their color, although the appearance and texmre of moo etables may be somewhat altered because of their high water content: I tals form from the water in the cells and burst the cells' walls. Some vegetables are available individually quick frozen OQF). 111is employs blasts of cold air, refrigerated plates, liquid nitrogen, liquid other techniques to chill the vegetables quickly. By speeding the process, the formation of ice crystals can be greatly reduced. Combinations of vegetables as well as vegetables with seasonings sauces are available frozen. Some frozen vegetables are raw when frozen; ers are blanched before freezing so that final cooking time is reduced. others are fully cooked before freeZing and need only to be thawed or for sen'ice. Frozen vegetables generally do not need to be thawed being heated. Once thawed or cooked, they should be stored in the tor and reheated in the same manner as fresh vegetables. Do not viously frozen vegetables. Frozen vegetables are graded in the same manner as canned They are usually packed in cases containing 1- to 2-pound (450-gram to kilogram) boxes or bags. All frozen vegetables should be sealed in proof wrapping and ke pt al a constant temperature of O°F (- ISOC) or Temperature fluctuations can draw moisture from the vegetables, ","i'll I" texture and flavor loss. Adequate packaging also prevents freezer h",,,,, reversible change in the color, texture and flavor of frozen foods.
cef,e",,,,,
Dried Vegetables Except for beans, peas, peppers and tomatoes, few vegetables are preserved by drying. Unlike other preservation methods, dl)'ing
VEGETABlES '"""- 601
an flal'or, texture and appearance. The loss of moisture concentrates flavors III sugars and greatly extends shelf life.
VARIOUS COOKING METHODS
,h-,
~Jes are cooked in order to break down their cellulose and gelatinize itt starches. Cooking gives vegetables a p[easam flavor; creates a softer, are tender texture; and makes them more digestible. Ideally, mOSt vegetables imld be cooked as briefly as possible in order 10 preserve their flavor, nu-
U!II.I and texture. Unfortunately, sometimes you mUSt choose between em~ appearance and maintaining nutrition because cooking methods that JItIen'c color and texlUre often remove nutrienlS.
kidlAlkali Reactions • :Kid or alkali content of the cooking liquid affcC15 the texture and color lIIl30Y vegetables. This is of greater concern with moist-heat cooking metho!s, but it is also a consideration with dry-heat cooking methods, as they often all for blanched or parboiled vegetables.
rm.,. 1Ir acidity or alkalinity of the vegetable's cooking liquid influences the finiIIrI:I product's texture. If an acid such as lemon juice, vinegar or wine is DIed to the liquid for flaVOring, the vegetable will resist softening and will retp"f a longer cooking time. On the other hand, an alkaline cooking medium dqoJickly soften the vegetable's texture and may cause it (0 become mushy. AI:iliniIy also causes nutrient loss (especially thiamin) and rna)' impan. a bitIII" fbl"Or. Alkalinity can be caused by tap water, detergent residue on utensils lithe addition of baking soda (a base) to the cooking liquid. (You could add, b example, 1/8 teaspoon [,6 milliliter! of baking soda per cup [225 milliliters] tfkans [0 speed [he softening of dried beans.)
"'"
acidity or alkalinity of the liquid also affects [he plllOt'S pigments, causing desirable and undesirable color changes. There are three principal pig. ,.. rnk'80'i''': chlorophyll, carotenoid and flavonoid . A plane's unique color
ACIDIALKALI
REACTIONS Effecr of Acid on:
Effect of Alkali on:'
Pigmem Family
Color
Texture
Color
Texture
Cook CoI'cred?
chlorophyll
drab olive green
finn
bright green
mushy
00
carotenoid
no change
finn
no change
mushy
00
flavonoid flavonoid
white ,00
firm fiml
yellow blue
mushy mushy
causes a
loss of thilmin and ocher nutrients.
dilTerence
602
(~~
CIIAPrER 22
"Sweating legetables" in a little oil o\l!f in a OOIl!red po!: is, in effect, a I'eg· etable s.1una. All of the fla\"Ors of the I'egetables emerge slowly in :t juicy tangle, in a much more intense mrumer than if roo sim· ply added them jUSH:U1 10 a srock. Jjke roasting garlic, it is a way to enlarge the natural flaltllS l"ery dramatically. - from CHbVA Moav C()()I/}J()()/{ low heat
by
BARllAAA TROPP
1. Spinach cooked with an acid (left)
and an alkali.
is the result of a combination of these pigments. Chlorophyll pigmenl:;)I: dominate in green vegetables such as spinach, green beans and broctU Carotenoid pigments predominate in orange and yellow vegetables sudI caJTO{S, tomatoes, red peppers and winte r S
2. Cauliflower cooked with an add (left) and 3n alkali.
j, Red cabb
(le ft) and an alkali.
GUIdelines for Vegetable Cookery The following general guidelines for vegetable cookery should be consiI:b:n regardless of the cooking method used: 1. Vegetables should be carefully cut into uniform shapes and sizes to 11"
mote even cooking and provide an attractive finished product. 2, Cook vegetables for as sho rt a time as possible to preserve texture. air and nutrients.
!'FJih7i1BLE5
I'egetables as close to service time as possible. Holding vegetables in l.1team table continues to cook them. 'Iben necessary, vegetables may be blanched in advance, refreshed in ice '-;11(,( and refrigerated. TIley C.1n then be reheated as needed. 1'hite and red vegetables (those with flavonoid pigmenlS) may be cooked 'lIh a small amount of acid such as lemon juice, vinegar or white wine to btIp retain their color. Ihen preparing an assortment of vegetables, cook each rype separately, !ben combine them. Othenvise, some items would become overcooked in ~ time required to properly cook others.
~1I1inil71! Doneness are so many types of vegetables, with sLLch varied responses to cookthat no one standard for doneness is appropriate. Each item should be on a redpe-by-recipe basis. Generally, however, most cooked vegdone when they are JLLSt tender when pierced with a fork or the paring knife. Leafy vegetables should be wilted but still have a bright Yoo can avoid overcooking vegetables by remembering that some carry",,,,,),in,will occur through the residual heat contained in the foods. AI· re~' on subjective teslS-Sight, feel , (:J.ste and aroma-rather than the
rv-Hf.'Ill ~n,g ann
Cooking Methods Grilling
and grilling use high heat to cook vegetables quickly. This preserves nutritional content and nalUral flavors. The radiant heat of the broiler or caramelizes the vegetables, creating a pleasant flavor that is not generally when vegetables are cooked by other methods.
Selectillg alld Preparing Vegetables to Broil or Crill Broiling is often used 10 cook soft vegetables sLLch as tomatoes or items that not rest easily on a grill rack. Broiling is also used to warm and brown juSt before service. If necessary, the vegetables can be basted to prevent drying out under the broiler's direct heat. Sometimes a cooked vegis napped with sauce or clarified butler and placed briefly under the as a finishing touch at service time. AIa1ge range of vegetables can be grilled. CarrolS, peppers, squashes, eggsimilar vegetables should be cut into broad, thin slices. They can placed on the grill in the same manner as a portion of meat or fish to "",,"ocr;;'·" crosshatchings. (See Chapter 9, Principles of Cooking.) Smaller such as mushrooms, cherry tomatoes and pearl onions can be ontO skewers for easy handling.
SIaso1ling Vegetables to be Broiled or Grilled \tgetables contain little fat and therefore benefit greatly from added fat being broiled or grilled. The added fat can be a brushing of clarified buta marinade sLLch as one made from olive oil and herbs. Some vegetables brushed with buner and coated with bread crumbs or Parmesan bebroiling.
. "\!l.
603
604
CHAlYJ'l:.'R 22
PROCEDURE FOR BROIliNG OR GRilliNG VEGETABlES I . Heat the grill or broiler. 2. Use a wire brush to remove any charred or burnt panicles that may ~ stuck to the broiler or grill grate. TIle grate may I~ wiped wilh a li~ oiled towel to remO\'e any remaining panicles and help season it 3. Prepare the vegetables to be broiled or grilled by cUHing them into appropriate shapes and sizes, then seasoning, marinating or otherwise preparing them as desired or directed in the recipe. 4, Place the vegetables on the broiler grate, broiler platter or grill grate arK cook to the desired doneness whit(> df'vf'lnping the proper -"urfaet' cob
...
4-,.'
RECi PE 22. 1
GRIUED VEGETABLE SKEWERS
Yield: 12 Skewers Marinade: Rice wine vinegar Vegetable oil Garlic, chopped Dried thyme Salt Pepper Zucchini Yellow squash Broccoli fl orets, large Cauliflower florets, large Onion, large dice Red bell pepper, large dice Mushroom caps, medium
120ml
4 oz. 8 oz.
250 tnl
1 01..
30 g
2 tsp.
IOml
I Thsp.
15 Illl
1/ 2 tsp. 6 oz. 60z.
2ml 180 g 180 g
12 12 24 picces
12 12 24 pieces
12 pieces
12 pieces
12
12
I . Combine all ingredients for the tnllrinade ;md set aside. 2. j.
4.
5. 6. Grilling skewers of mllrinated vegetables.
Cut the zucchini and yellow squash imo 1/2-inch (L2-centimeter) II semicircles. Blanch and refresh the zucchini, yellow squash, broccoli florets, cauliJ\o;•. florets, onions and red bell pepper as discussed later, under Mobi·1Je; Cooking Melhods. Drain the vegetables well and combine them with the marin:tde. Ad! mushroom r:lr~ tn the marinade. Marinate the veget:lbles for 30-1; fit utes. rcmove and drain well. Skewer the vegel
AppfOxinute \'~lllCS per SC1"I'ing: Ca lories 60. TOlal fal 2.5 g, SalUra la! fal 0 g. Choblmll Sodiu m 6\0 mg. TOla l carbohydrau:s 8 g, I'rolcl n 2 g, Vl lamln C 90%. Claim f3L 00 lesIerol: good SO\lrce of fiber
VEGETABLES
'rxulillg and Iklk;'lg irr terms roostillg and baking are used interchangeably when referring [a j~1ablcs. Roasting or b
Selecting and Preparing Vegetables 10 Roast or &Ike Hemy I'egetables such as winter squash and eggplant are especially well
for roasting or b:J.king. Vegetables such as onions, carrots and turnips sometimes cooked alongside roasting mealS or poultry. TIle vegetables add lor to the finished r~. st :uld accomp:lI1ying s•• uce, and the f:'lIs and juices
Jfr
'tkJ..)t.'(] from the cooking roast add flavor to the vegetables. rt'gl.'lables
C'JO be baked whole or cut into unifoml-Sized pieces. Squash, is usually cut into large pieces. Vegetables may be peeled or left peeled, depending on the desired finished product.
~:omple,
SMwlling !'egelables 10 be Roasted or Baked Vegetables m.1y be seasoned with salt and pepper and rubbed with butter f oil before baking, or they may be seasoned afterward with a wide variclY ,~~rbs and spices. Some veget:Lbles, such as winter squashes and sweet potab, may be seasoned with brown sug
PmDURE FOR ROASTING OR BAKING VEGb1'ABLIlS I. 'rash the vegetables. Peel, cut and prepare them as desired or directed in
the retipc. 1 Season the vegetables and rub with oil or butter it desired.
J PUre the vegetables in a baking dish and bake in a preheated oven until 00ne. =========== ~ ============
RECIPE 22.2
BAKED BlffTERNUT SQUASH 'ie!d: 4 4-oz. (I20-g) Servings
&memut squash, medium dice \lk and pepper Cmnamon C3rd:tmom, ground Brown sugar ltmoniuice
rtJole butter, melted
lib. 11' 1/4 tsp. 1/8 tsp. 21bsp. ZThsp. 2 oz.
4;0 g 11' lOll 1/2 ml 30ml 30ml
60g
I. Place the squash in a buttered pan. Season with salt, pepper, Cinnamon,
Gmiamom and brown sug.1 r. 1 Drizzle the lemon juice and butter over the top of the squash.
J Rake, uncovered. in a 350°F (I80°C) oven until tender, approximately 50 nunutcs. IClIf'IUle \':Ilues p..'T 'i-oz, 020-g) scrving: Catorie!l 190. Totat fal 12 g, Salllr:lloo fat 7 g, Cho· BrroI 30 mg. Sodi um 700 mg, Total carbohrtl rnu:s 20 g. Pro tein 1 g, Vhaml n A 9(1%, Vila·
lilt .!)"
~
605
606
("\!I.
CHAPTER 22
Sauteing Sauteed vegetables should be brightly colored and slightly crisp when d:u and show little moisture loss. When sauteing vegetables, all preparation II1.II be complete before cooking begins because timing is important and <XXiq progresses rapidly. Have all vegetables, herbs, spices, seasonings and sauas ready before you begin.
Selecting and Preparing Vegetables to Stmte A wide variety of vegetables Cdn be sauteed. Whatever vegetables are llltIl. they should be cut into uniform-sized pieces to ensure even cooking. Quick-cooking vegetables such as summer squashes, onions, greeD!. stalks, fruit-vegetables and mushrooms can be sauteed withoUl any prepmtion except washing and cutting. Other vegetables such as Brussels SpfCXl\ green beans, wintcr squashes, broccoli, cauliflower and most root vegetate are usually first blanched or otherwise partially cooked by baking, steamq or simmering. They are then sauteed to reheat and finish, Carrots, squashaD! other vegetables are sometimes finished by sauteing in butter and da adding a small amount of honey or maple syrup to glaze them. Some roird vegetables are reheated by simply sauteing them in a small amount of st<Xt or sauce.
Seasoning Vegetables to be Sauteed Sauteed vegetables can be seasoned with a great variety of herbs 2l1li spices. Seasonings should be added toward the cnd of the cooking proos after all other ingredients have been incorporated in order to accurately eli uate the fl avor of the finished dish. Because sauteing vegetables uses slightly lower temperawres than saUleq meats and poultry, usually whole butter can be used instead of clarified luter. For additional flavors, fats such as bacon fat, olive oil, nut oils or ses3IIt oil can be used in place of bulter.
PROCEDURE FOR SAUTEING VEGETABI.F.5 1. Wash and cut the vegetables into uniform shapes and sizes. 2. Heat a saute pan and add enough fat to just cover the bottom, The pan should be large enough to hold the vegetables without overcrowding. 3. When preparing an assortment of vegetables, add the ingredients accotdq to their cooking times (first add the vegetables that take the longest to cook). Plan carefully 50 that all vegetables will be done at tht: salllt: time Do not overcrowd the pani maintain high enough heat so that the vegetables do nO{ cook in their own juices. 4. Toss the vegetables using the sloped sides of the Saute pan or wok to flip them back on top of themselves. Do nO{ toss more than necessary. The pan should remain in contact with the heat source as much as possible 10 mainlain proper temperatures. 5. Add any sauces or vegetables with high waleI' comem, such as tomatoes. last. 6. Season the vegetables as desired with herbs or spices, or add ingredients for a glaze.
I'BGhTABI.FS
, ~.
607
===== -v- ====== RECIPE 22.3
STIR-FRIED AsPARAGUS W/11l SJll/'LlKIJ M USIIROOilfS \,l
.~gus
lib .
'iltiitake mushrooms, fresh
6az.
ItgetJhlc oil
11h;p. I Thsp, 2 (Sp. 4 oz. 1T
~meoil
Garlic, chopped o,'.lter sauce Crushed red chiles, optional /. Wash the
450 g 180 g 15011 15 ml IOml 120m!
1T
:Isparagus, trim (he ends and slice on the bias into
1~ to 2-inch
fl S- to 5-centimctcr) pieces. Z {J~h the mushrooms, trim off the stems and slice the caps into 1/2·inch 12<entimeter) thick slices.
Hl'3.llhe oils in a wok or saute pan. the garlic and stir-fry for a few seconds. j. .\dd the mushrooms and asparagus and stir-fry for I minute. , Add the oyster sauce and crushed red chiles (if used) and continue flY untillhe asparagus is nearly lender, approximately 3 minutes.
j.
i .~dd
1rIIII:
IQjI..
l'2IlIe5 pt'f 4-Qz. ( 120-g) serving: Caklries 140. Total fat 8 g, S;oJUraled (al I Sodium ]] 30 mg, To u l C:I.moh)'drale5 13 g, Protein 5 g. Vitamin C 50%
10
stir-
g, Cboles-
""·Irying and Deep-Frying • n-flying is nOt as popular as other techniques for cooking vegelables. Green
however, are sometimes sellsoned, floured and pan-fried; eggplam are seasoned, floured, plIO-fried and used for eggplant parmesan. When puHlying vcgc]ables, fo llow the procedures outlined in Chapter 9, Principles (/Cooking. !kep-frying is a popular method of preparing vegetables such as potatoes, .1Ilshes and mushrooms. They can be served as hors d'oeuvre, appetizers or ,TXllpanimcnts to a main dish. Starchy vegelables may be deep-fried plain. \kQ {)(her vegetables aTC first breaded or battered. Vegetables can also be Md or chopped and incorporated into fritters or croquettes. Any deep-fried 111 fulld have a crisp, golden exterior with a tender, nongreasy center. See .JPIef 21, Deep-Frying, for additional information. l>JlOeS,
O.'S
Jlots/-Heat Cooking Methods flJancbing and Parboiling ~:hing
and parboiling are vanatlons on boiling; the difference between the length of cooking time. Blanched and pa.rboiled vegetables are 11m finished by other cooking methods such as sauteing. Blanching is the parti:l1 cooking of foods in a large amount of boiling ,~ter for a vcry short time, llsually only a few seconds. Besides preparing veg(Il\
l
is
Stir-frying mushrooms and asparagus.
608
~.
C/WTf'ER 22
etables for fUMer cooking, blanching is used to remove strong or bitler vors, soften firm foods, set colors or loosen skins for peeling. Kale. em, snow peas and tomatoes are examples of vegetables that are blanched for purposes other than preparation for further cooking. Parboiling is the same as bl:tnching, but the cooking time is longer. ally se,'eral minutes. Parboiling is used to soften vegetables and shonen cooking times. Parboiling is commonly used for preparing root vegetali cauliflower, broccoli and winter squashes.
Boiling Vegetables are often boiled. Boik-'d vegetables can be served as is, or the)' all be further prepared by quickly sauteing with other ingredients, pureeing mashing. Boiled vegetables are also chilled, then used in sal:tds. Starchy root vegetables are gener::tlly not boiled but rather simmered sJcw, so that the heat penetrates to their interiors lind cooks them evenly. Grd vegetables should be boiled quickly in a large amount of water in order!OfI' lain lheir color and flavor.
Refresbing Unless the boiled, blanched or parboiled vegetables will be eaten irnrrIt'I) :ilcly, they must be quickly chilled in ice water after they are removed fi the cooking liquid. 111is prevems further cooking and preserves (sets) thcir ors. This process is known as refr(.'Shing or shocking the veget3b1es. ~ vegetables are removed from the ice water as S<XJn as they are cold \t'I soak or hold the vegetables in the water longer than necessary. or \'alm trients and flavor will be leached away.
PROCEDURE FOR REFRES IIL~G VF.GF..ABLFS
1. Blanch, parboil or boil the vegetables to the desired doneness.
2. Remove the vegetables from the cooking liquid and submergt' them in ice water just until tbef are cold.
Selecting and Preparing Vegetables 10 Boil Nearly any type of vegetable can be ooited. CarrOls, cabbages, green tu turnips and red beets are just a few of the most common oncs. VegetabioOli be large or small, but they should be uniform in size to ensure e\'en 000' • Some vegetables :Ire cooked whole and only require washing before boilic:l Others must be washed, peeled and trimmed or cut into smaller or more mm agcable sizes.
I'EGFfABUS
609
Seasollillg Vegetables to be Boiled lfien regetables are boiled in nOlhing more than salted water. Lemon juice, zest, wine and other acidic ingredients :Ire sometimes added to white red \egetablcs; if so, they should be .. dded to the liquid before the vegHeros and spices in a s.lchet or a l)Ouquet garni are offen used to add x to boiled vegetables and should be added according to the recipe. lJier boiling. \'egetables are sometimes finished with herbs. spices, butter, or sauces.
1lxID~RF. FOR BoII.lNG VEGETABI.F.5
/. Il'ash, peel, trim and CUI the vegetables into uniform shapes and sizes.
t Bring an adequate amount of water, stock, court bouillon or other liquid 10 aooil. TIle liquid should cover the vegetables, and they should be able 10 mOl'e around freely withoul overcrowding. ~ .\dd seawnings if desired or directed in Ihe recipe. l. ,I,dd the vegetables to Ihe boiling liquid. If more than one vegetable is to I:tcookcd and they have different cooking times, they should be cooked ~rately to ensure Ihal all lire cooked to the proper doneness. The l)Ot 1Ill)' be co\'ered if cooking white, red or yellow vegetables. Do nQ{ cover !he poi when boiling green vegetables. ! Cook the vegetables 10 the desired doneness. , Remove the vegetables from the water with a sloned spoon or a spider or drain through a colander. • Kd'resh the vegetables in icc water, drain and refrigerate until needed, or finish the hOI boiled vegetables as desired and serve immediately.
I . Marking an X in the bottom of
e.. ch Brussels sprout.
RECIPE 22.4
BRUSSELS SPROUTS 2. Bailing the Brussels sprouls in the appropriate amount of water.
IN PECAN BUITER Yield: 6 3-oz. (90-g) Servings Brussels sprouts ibole butter Pt-clns, chopped 'iltl and pepper
450 g
lib. 2 oz. 4 oz.
60g
IT
IT
120 g
I. Trim the Brussels sprouts and mark an X in the bottom of each with a paring knife to promOle even cooking. 1 Boil the sprouts in s.llted water until tender, approximately 10 minutes. j. Drain and hold the sprouts in a wann place. t Heallhe butter in :t sallie pan until it turns nut brown; this is called beurre ooisette. Add the pec
\-atll<.'S
per }oz. (90-)() SC"'ing: Calories 240. Total (at 2t g. Saturated fat 6 g. Cho les·
trO!!llllj!. Sodium ol8O mg. Total carbohydrates 10 g. Protein 4 g. Vitamin A t S%, Vitamin C 13()%
j,
Tossing the Brussels sprouts with the butter.
Beun'e nol~lte-(Fr.) II'boIe bl/fler healed /II/iii
illllnis light breAm (111(1 gi~'t!S off(I
(1rr)IIW.
l
/II/tty
610
CIIAPTER 22 PROCEDURE FOR CooKING DRIED BEANS
Dried beans are best reh)'dralcd by soaking as discussed earlier and cooking in a boiling (actually simmering) liquid. After rehydr31ion and
ing, the dishes.
!.>eltnS ClIO
be served or further cooked in baked, sauteed or
I . Afler soaking, place the dmined beans in a heavy saucepan and
em·,,,"
cold water or stock. Allow approximately three times as much liquid as there arc beans. Add flavoring ingredients as directed in the recipe, but 00 nOl add acids or salt unlillhe beans have reached the de~irerllencl~ Acids and salt cause the exterior of beans 10 toughen and resist any fwtber effoIlS al tenderizing. 2. Slowly bring the liquid \0 a boil. Boil uncovered for 10 minutes or 35 directed in the recipe. Use a ladle to remove any scum that rises to the surface. J. Cover and reduce the heat. Allow the mb:ture to simmer until th, tender. Whole beans generally require I (0 2 1/2 hours, lentils 2Q to 35 minutes and split peas 30 to 60 minutes. Add additional hot liquid if necessary. Do not stir the beans during cook ing. 4. Drain the cooked beans through a colander.
be"".
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 22.5
CHICKPEAS WITH OLlYE OIL AND WION Yield: 3 lb. (1.4 kg) Chickpeas, dried Chicken stock Onion. medium dice Bouquet gami: Carrot stick, 4 in. (10 cm) Leek, split, 4·in. (1O-cm) piece fresh thyme Bay leaves Salt Lemon juice Olive oil Garlic. minced Fresh oregano, chopped Lemon zest, grated Pepper
lib.
3 pt 10 oz.
I sprig 2 1 tsp. 2 oz. 4 oz.
1 07.. IISp.
2lbsp. 1T
450 8 1.5 It 3008
I sprig
2 SOli 60 ml 120 ml 308 5 ml 30 ml 1T
J. Soak the chickpeas in water for 4 hours or overnight. 2. Drain the chickpeas and combine with the chicken slock, onion and quet gami. Simmer, uncovered, until the chickpeas are tender, matel}' 2 1/2 hours. Add the salt to the chickpeas; cook for 5 minutes. 3. Combine the lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, oregano and lemon zest 10 a dreSSing.
VF£ETABLES '"""
Iemm'e the peas from the heat. Drain. Combine with the dressing and seam 10 taste with pepper. Serve the peas hot or refrigerate and serve cold . ..._"fu~,~}.eIz. (90-8) serving: Calories I-t!, Total {at iO g.
SaIW':illoo fat 1.5
g, CJlo.
SodIum 250 mg, Total carbohydral~ 11 g. Protein 3 g
can be steamed in a convection steamer or by placing [hem in a or on a rack and suspending them over boiling liquid in a wok, or hotel pan, Vegetables can also be pan-steamed by cooking them COI'Cred pan with a small amount of liquid; most of the cooking is done because only a small portion of the food is submerged in the liquid, I'egetables can be eatcn plain, partially cooked and sauteed lightly to incorporated in10 casseroles or pureed. If they arc not served immedi· ,they must be refreshed and refrigerated until used. Properly sleamed vegetables should be IT.aist and tender. They generally retheir shape better than boiled \'egetables. Vegetables cook very rapidly in and overcooking is a common mistake.
St/ecting alJd Preparing Vegetables to Steam Searly any vegetable that can be boiled can also be steamed successfully. \-egetables should be washed, peeled and trimmed if appropriate and cut ;11> Wlllomn-s;zed pieces. Pan-steaming is appropriate for vegetables that are or cut into fairly small pieces such as peas and beans or broccoli and 'cUll,wer flo,,"_
SttIsoning Vegetables to be Steamed Sleaming produces vegetables with clean, natural flavors. Foods cooked in ::,~~o:~steamers can be seasoned with herbs and spices; but convection
:
plain water to produce steam and the foods being cooked do not flal'or from the cooking liquid. Vegetables steamed over liquids or panin small amounts of liquids can be flavored by using stocks or court as the cooking liquid. Herbs, spices and aromatic vegetables can be to any liquid for additional flavor.
ImOORE FOR STlliIL~G VEGh"lABlES
1 "'ash, peel, trim and cut the vegt::tables into unifonn shapes and sizes. If a CQflveaion steamer is not being used, prepare a steaming liquid and bring it to a boil in a covered pan or double boiler. Place the vegetables in a perforated pan in a single layer; do nO{ crowd the pan. Place the pan over the boiling liquid or add the vegetables to the "I'M , Cover the pan and cook to the desired doneness. Remol'e the vegetables from the steamer and serve, or refresh and refrigerate until needed.
6JI
612
~
CHAffER 22
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 22.6
BROCCOLI ALMONDINE Yield; 6 Servings Broccoli, fresh Salt and pepper Whole butter Almonds, sliced Garlic clove, minced lemon juice
2 lb. Tr
n
I kg
2 oz. I oz.
60g 30g
I
I
2 oz.
60 ml
1. Cut the broccoli into uniform spears. Rinse and sprinkle Jightl\' with III
and pepper. 2. Place the broccoli in a single layer in a perforated hotel pan and cook" a convection steamer untiitender but slightly crisp, approximately 3minutes. 3. Melt the butter in a s.1tJle pan. Add the almonds and garlic and cook F' until the nuts are lightly browned. 4. Arrange the broccoli on plates for service and sprinkle with Ihe Ietrill' juice. Drizzle the almonds and butter over the broccoli and sel\'e imnrdiately. 1. Placing the broccoli spears in a
perforated pan.
Approximate 1':11\1(:5 per 6-07.. (180-g) serving: Calories 160, Toml fat 10 g, SanITate([ f~t ) t CItt lesterol 20 mg. Sodium 500 g. Total carbohydrates 10 g, Protein 6 g, Vitamin A 3" IW C 110%
2. Drizzling the browned almontb and butter over the broccoli.
Combination Cooking Methods Braising and Stewing Braised and stewed vegetables are cooked slowly in a small amount of liquid The liquid, including any given off by the vegetllbles, is reduced to a liglt sauce, becoming pan of the finished product. Generally, a braised dish is prepared with only one vegetable; a stew is a mixture of several vegetables, lk main ingredients are sometimes browned in fat before the liquid is added ill order to enhance navor and color. Both braises and stews can be exceptionally flavorful because the)· lit served with all of their cooking liquid. (Boiled vegetables lose some of thei
VEG£TAB1.ES ~,
to the cooking liquid.) Braised and stewed vegetables generally can beld hot for service longer than vegetables prepared by other cooking
Selectil/g (llId Preparing Vegetables 10 Braise or Stew Various lenures, especially romaine and Boston, are often braised. CabBelgium endive, leeks and many otller vegetables are also commonly Stews may contain a wide variety of vegetables such as summer eggplant. onions, peppers, tomatoes, carrots, celery and garlic. leafy vegetables and winter squashes are less commonly braised or stewed. The vegetables should be washed and peeled or trimmed if appropriate. to be braised may be left whole, cut into uniform pieces or shredas desired. Lettuces are usuatly Cllt into halves or quarters; cabbage is
Seasolling Vegetables to be Braised or Stewed Both braises and stews usuatly include flavoring ingredients such as garlic, bacon or mirepoix. The liquid may consist of water, wine, stock or juice. Vegetables can even be braised in butler and sugar or honey 10 a glazed dish. IkAA braises and slews can be seasoned wilh a variety of herbs and spices. the seasonings before covering the pot to finish the cooking process. , flavored vegelables such as celery root and lurnips are usually parin order 10 reduce their strong presence.
TbIDll!E' FOR BRAISING AND STEWING VEGf.'TABLES
1'ash, peel, trim and cut the vegetables. ute or swe:lt the flavoring ingredients in fat to release their flavors. Or saute or sweat the main ingredients in fat. Fora braise, add the main ingredient in a single layer. For a stew, add the ingredients according to their cooking times or as directed in the reCipe. Add the cooking liquid; it should partially cover tbe vegetables. Bring the liqUid [0 a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover and cook in the oven or on the stove top until done. ~ desired, remove the main ingredients from the pan and reduce the sauce or thicken it with beurre manil~ , cornstarch or arrowroot. Then return the main ingredients to the sauce .
.= ===== ......".... ======= RECIPE 22.7
BRAISED CELERY WITH BASIL Yltld: 12 servings Ctle
3 heads
Onion, small dice Garlic, minced 'I"hole buller Olive oil Fresh thyme Fresh basil, chiffonade
Soz. 2 ISp. 2 oz. loz. I tsp. 20 leaves
3 heads 250 g 10 ml 60g 30ml S !TIl
20 leaves COlllilll/ed
613
614
ClIAPl7lR 22 Dry white wine Chicken stock Salt and pepper
Boz.
250 mI
I pI. IT
500ml IT
I . Trim the outer ribs frOIll the celery heads, lcaving only the tender I13!i
Trim the heads to 6-inch (IS-centimeter) lengths. Trim the fOOl sli leaving each head together. Cut each head lengthwise into quaners,
2. Saute the onions and g,lflic in the butter and ol ive oil, without until tender. Add the celery qual1ers \0 the pan and saute. turning
sionally. J. Add the thyme, basil, wine and chicken stock. Bring \0 a boil, redure simmer, co\'er and braise in the oven al 350°F (J80°C) until tender. proximately 1 bour.
4. Remove the celery and rescrve. Reduce the cooking liquid on the store until it thickens. Adjust the liquid's season ings and return the celery \0 pan \0 reheat. Serve the celery with a portion of the s:nlce. Appro)(im:ue \';llues per }.oz. (90-g) serving: C:llories 60, Toul f~t 45 g, S~lur.lted rat t 'i g.Ot !esteroi 5 mg. Sodium 1"'0 mg, Total carboh ydrates 2 g. Protein t g
1. Trimming and cutting the celery.
2. Adding the liquid to the celery.
3. Reducing the sallce.
Microwaving Fresh vegetables are among the few foods that can be consistently well p:' pared in a microwave oven. Often microwave cooking can be accomplishwithout any additional liquid, thus preserving nutrients. With micro\u\ colors and flavors stay true, and textures remain crisp. Microwave cooking is adually a form of steaming. As explained in Oupr 9, Principles of Cooking, microwaves agitate water molecules, thus ~ stea m. The water may be the moisture found naturall}' in the food or !lUI added specifically to create the steam. Cooking time depends on the type of microwave oven as well as on th freshness, moisture content, maturity and qU:ll1tity of vegetables being In' pared.
Selecting and Preparing Vegetables 10 Microwave Any vege!
VEGf!fAI3JJiS '"""
SItuonillg Vegetables to be Microwaved Mkrowaving, like steaming, brings out the natural flavors of food. Herbs
can be added
10
the vegetables before they are microwaved. Or,
"~::'I:::~ the vegetables can be tOssed with buuer, heros and spices II a sauce,
JmIlURl fOR MICROWAVING VEGETABLES falh, peel, trim and cut the vegetables into uniform shapes and sizes. Place the vegetables in a steamer designed for microwave use or arrange !he I'cgaables on a microwavable dish. Cover the vegetables with the lid <rpiastic wrap. If using plastic wrap, it should be punctured 10 allow some ltam (0 escape during cooking. Cook the vegetables 10 the desired doneness, allowing for some carryover rooking. Or reheat the previously cooked vegetables until hot. Stir or turn the I'egetables as necessal)' 10 promote even cooking. Ser.'e the vegetables or refresh and refrigerate until needed.
is a technique often used with vegetables. Cooked vegetable can be served as is, or they can be used as an ingredient in other "",Otic'" such as pumpkin pie, mashed poIatoes or vegetable souffles. can also be bound with eggs, seasoned and used to make vegetable and lerrines. Pureed vegetables are generally first cooked by baking, boiling, steaming or ....,''"'g. White, red and yellow vegetables should be cooked until quite They are more easily pureed when hot or warm; this also helps ensure a 6nished puree. For mOSt preparations, green vegetables must be reo after cooking and pureed while cold, or they will overcook and be· discolored.
Itasonil/g Vegetables to be PI/reed
~"'blci for purees can be seasoned before they are pureed following the
for the cooking procedure used. They can also be seasoned after are pureed with a wide variety of ingredients such as herbs or spices, honey or brown sugar.
filrisbil/g PI/reed Vegetables Purees can be fin ished with stocks, sauces, bulter or cream to add richness
First puree me main ingredient, then add additional liquids to 01>desired consistency.
r..IlURE fOR PuREEING VEGETABLES Cook the vegetables. White, red and yellow vegetables should be cooked
WUil I'cry soft. Green vegetables should be cooked until tender bUi nOt ao-ercooked 10 the point of being discolored. Puree the vegetables in a VCM, food processor or blender or by passing them through a food mill. Season or finish the pureed vegetables as desired or directed in the recipe, or use them in another recipe.
6/5
616 '"""
C/Wl1!JI22
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 22.8
PARSNIP P UREE Yield: 2 qt. (2 11) 4 lb. 1 lb. B oz. B oz. 4 oz.
Parsnips Russet potatoes Heavy cream, bot Whole butter, melted Salt and white pepper
1T
1.8 kg
6;0 g 250 ml 120 g 1T
1. Peel the parsnips and potatoes, and cut into large pieces of 'PI""'''''''' the same size. 2. Boil the parsnips and potatoes separately in sailed water until tender. J. Drain the parsnips and potatoes well. Puree them together through a mill. 4. Add the cream and buner and mi.x to combine. Adjust the con'''''''!~. adding cream as desired. Season the mixture with salt and white and serve hot. Approximate values per 4.()z. (17()..g) 5Crving: Calories 240, TObl fat 12 g, Saturaled fa! 7 g. lesterol 35 mg, SodIum 220 mg, Total earbohrdl'2lcs 31 g, Pn:lleln 3 g. Vllamln A Ill'. min C 35%
tifONCLUSION ..n., Vegetables are an essential part of the human diet. They provide vitamins, minerals and fiber and appeal to the appetite with flavor, cokx texrure. Increasing market availability of fresh, high-quality vegetables as new hybrids gives you an ever-increasing variety of vegetables from wlit to choose. Vegetables are a relatively inexpensive food that can be in limitless ways. They can be selVed as an entire meal or as an acoompD ment to or part of a wide variety of other dishes. And when cooking I'egel' bles, remember what James Beard (1903-1985), the great American food ((I> sultant, culinary educator and writer once said: ~No vegetable exists not betler slightly u ndercooked. ~
DfSCUSS/ON.N-. I. Explain how the season affects the price, quality and availability of vegetables. 2. Ust and describe three processing techniques commonly used to e}.1end!lt shelf life of vegetables. 3. What special concerns exist regarding the storage of fres h vegetables? Explain why some vegetables should not be refrigerated. 4. Why is it important to cut vegetables into a uniform size before cookinr 5. Discuss several techniques used for determining the doneness of vegetables. Is carryover cooking a concern when preparing vegetabl
VP.GETABLES '"""
Discuss the role of acid in a cooking liquid used for preparing vegetables. truch vegetables, if any, benefit from an acidic cooking environment? Describe the necessary mise en place and procedure for refreshing ItgetlIbles.
slDDmONAL
VEGETABLE RECIPES .n-, RECIPE 22.9
SUMMER VEGImtBLES WI11I TARRAGON MOll NOTE: 'Ibis dish appears in the Chapter OpeningpboJograph.
GREfu'lS, SA.. FRA.'«1'lCO, CA Executit'e ChefA.nnie Somerville
field: 6 Servings
Method: Boiling
6
Ib.by artichokes UmiIs Yellow or green zucchini Sunburst squash Blue lake green beans
250 g
1 lb.
500 g 500 g 250 g
lib. 8 oz. 8 oz.
Ydlow wax beans
BnxcoIi florcts Cauliflower florets Red radishes Olerry tomatoes SiI;oise or Gaeta olives Tarragon Aioli (recipe follows)
6
8 oz.
l ib.
lib. 1 bunch 1/2 pI. 8 oz. 8 oz.
250 g
500 g 500g 1 bunch
250 ml
250 g 250 g
l Trim the artichokes. Steam or boil them until tcnder; refresh. 1 CUt the carrots, zucchini and squash as desired. Snip the ends from the beans. Parboil the vegetables (except the radishes, tomatoes and olives), one variety at a lime, in salted water until nearly tender but still crisp. Refresh each and drain well. I "ash the radishes. Trim the root end but leave (he green tops attached . • '«'ash the cherry tomatoes and remove the stems. 1 loosely arrange the vegetables on a platter, leaving room for the aioli unIc$ it is to be served separately in a small bowl.
TARRAGON AlOLl YJdd: 1/2 pI. (2;0 mO f«g rolk, large Fresh lemon juice Ught olive oil Gl.rlic clove, chopped Olampagne Vinegar
Fresh tarragon, chopped Sol,
I I Thsp. 8 oz. I 1 !Sp. 2 !Sp. IT
I; ml 250 ml I
5 ml 10 ml IT C01lfinued
617
6/8
C""\!\.
C1W'TF.R 22
1. Whisk the yolk and 112 teaspoon G milliliters) of lemon juice togetherllJi smooth. 2. Whisk in the oil, very slowly at first , until the aioli begins to emulsify..\11 a few drops of lemon juice as necessary to thin the sauce. Continue ord all the oil and lemon juice have been incorporated. 3. Season with the garlic, vinegar, tarragon and salt. If the aioli is too!brt thin it with a little warm water. Approxim;l!C \';Ilues per serving: Calories 470. TouJ bt 35 g. Satur.tted fat 5 g. Cholesterol)J" Sodium no mg. Tout carbohyd.tates 29 g. Prote in 8 So Vitamin A 12CJII6, Vitamin C t5Ollo
============= ~ ===========I RECIPE 22.10
SPINACH Au GRATIN RUTH'S CHRIS STEAK IIOUSE, PUOF.'·IX, AZ
Method: Boiling
Yield: 8 8--oz. (240 g) Servings
Clarified butter Flour Half-and-half Frozen chopped spinach, thawed Salt and pepper Cheddar cheese, shredded
l oz. l oz. I pI.
30 ml
30g 450 ml
2 lb. 8 oz.
2.4 kg
IT
IT 700g
1 lb. 8 oz.
1. Heat the butter in a saucepan. Add the flour and cook to make a blondJOOl 2. Add the half-and-half, whisking to remove any lumps of raux. Bring kll
simmer and cook for 15 minutes. 3. Drop the spinach into boiling salted water and cook for 2 minutes. RerrDt from the heat and drain well. 4. Combine the hot spinach with the cream sauce and adjust the seasorur, 5. Fill eight 10--ounce gratin dishes with the creamed spinach. Top each 3 ounces (90 grams) shredded cheddar cheese and place under the bIt& until the cheese is melted and browned and the spinach is vel)' hot. Sent immediately.
1\.
Approx;m;ltc values per 8-oz. (240-g) serving: Calories 510. Tow fat 38 g. Saturated flit 24 So ~ lesterol 120 mg. SOdium 960 mg. Total carbohydr.tle5 14 g, Protein 28 g, Vitamln" la CI ciUffi
9O'Ii
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 22. 11
BROILED TOMATO NOTE:
7bis diJb Il{fJeIlrs in /be BeefC1xlpter ~ingpbolograpb. RlIfH'S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE, PttOF.l'';rx, AZ
Yield: 1 Serving
Tomato, large Granulated sugar Whole bUller, melted Fresh parsley, chopped
Method: Broiling 1
2 tsp. loz. I Thsp.
10mi
30g 15 ru!
VEGIi7'ABJ.ES '"""
and halve the tomato. 1S<0nl~";"," on top of each half. Place on a bro iler planer and broil until
lender. Drizzle with buner and gamish with parsley. values Jl(1" .serving: Calories 170. Toul fat 12 g, Satur:ued fat 7 g. Cholesterol J) mg, mg, Total carboh)'drale5 14 g, Proldn ] g. Vitamin A 20%, Vitamin C ~
RECIPE 22.12
GRlUED PORTABEUA MUSHROOMS Method: Grilling
YJrJd: 3 4-oz. (I20-g) Servings Ponabella mushroom caps
lib.
Q1jI'e oU
1 Tbsp.
Garlic, chopped
1 lSp.
Salt and pepper
IT
500 g 15 ml 5ml IT
Fresh thyme
1 tsp.
5 ml
'ripe the mushroom caps clean with a damp towel. Combine the olive oil and garlic and brush the mixture on the mushroom aps. Season the mushrooms with salt, pepper and thyme. or broil the mushrooms until tender, approximately 8 minutes, depending on the size of the caps. ""'_"',~ per 4-oz. (l20-g) .serving: Calories 140, Total fat 10 So Satur.lled fat 1.5 g. Coo. mg, Sodium 7'90 mg, Total carbohydJ'llles 8 g, Protein 6 g. CWms-no chole:slerol; high
~
RECIPE 22.13
D UXELLES r.hl: 12 oz. (350 g) Mushrooms thole butter !halloo, minced Garlk, chopped Salt and pepper FrtSh paISley, chopped
Method: Sauteing
I lb. 1 Thsp. 2 Thsp. 1 tsp. IT 1 Thsp.
500 g 15 ml 30ml 5 ml IT 15 ml
Clql the mushrooms vel)' finely. Saute the shallotS and garlic in buner until tender. Add the mushrooms and saute until dry. Season with salt and pepper and add the parsley. Cool and then use the duxelles as a stuffing for vegetables or as a flavoring ingrediem in other reap". \\llues pet ]-oz. (30-gJ serving: Calorlcs 20, Total {at 1 g, Satur.lled fat .5 g, Cho lcs· Sodium 210 mg, Total carbo hydratcs 2 g, PrQlein I g, ClaiJns.--low Fat; low choles-
!aI.' alorie
6/9
620 "'"
ClW'l'ER 22
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 22. 14
."'....
ROASTED PORTABELIA M USHROOjl WITH S UA1J1ER SQUASH AND SPICY VEGETABLE BROTH THE BOUlDERS RESORT, Ct.REfREE, AZ
CIJefJarett Forsberg Method: Roasting
Yield: 4 Servings
Zucchini, 1
Golden Bar zucchini
Portabella mushrooms, stems and gills removed Balsamic vinegar Garlic, minced
2 medium I Thsp.
I (Sp. 1T 1T
Kosher salt
Pepper Vegetable cooking spray Phyllo dough Red bell pepper, roosted, peeled, seeded and
as needed
6 oz. CUI
1T 1T as needed 180 g 1
in eighths
Spicy Vegetable Broth (recipe follows) Aged Monterey Jack cheese, shredded Cilantro, chopped
2 medium 15 ml ;ml
8 oz. I oz. I Thsp.
250 mI JOg 15 ml
1. Place a heavy roasting pan in an oven and preheat to 450°F (Z3O"C). 2. CUI the zucchini and the Golden Bar zucchini into 8 equal-sized piect'U-
serving the scraps for the Spicy Vegetable Broth. In a mixing bowl, combine the zucchinis and mushrooms, sprinkle with lit vinegar, garlic, salt and pepper; toss to coat. 4. Spray the roasting pan lightly with the cooking spray and add the yep bles. Roast until cooked through, stirring occasionally, approximatel)' Jj minutes. 5. Cut the phyllo dough into very thin strips using a paSta machine or adK'I'i knife. Gather the shredded phyHo into 4 small mounds and bake at 3m (1S00C) unti! crisp. 6. To assemble, cut the mushroom caps into quaners and lay one wedge. the bottom of each of 4 serving bowls. Top with a slice of zucchini kilowed by a slice of Golden B.1r zucchini, the phyHo crisp and red pepflt j.
repeal_ 7. Ladle 2 ounces (60 milliliters) of the Spicy Vegetable Br()(h around the ret erables and garnish with the aged Monterey Jack cheese and cilaruro. Approximale \'lIJuo per serving: Calories lBO. Total rat 45 g, SafUnted rat L; g, ChoIcsImllIO" SOdium 240 mg. Total carboh}"dn te5 27 g, Protein 7 g, Vitamin C 6<M, Cb~ good source of fiber
SPICY VEGETABLE BR011I Yield : 8 oz. (250 m!) Olive oil White onion, chopped
1 (Sp.
5 ml
112
1/2
VEGI:1ABlES ~ I rib I
Cderj', chopped _,chopped G2r1ic' doves, chopped Green bell pepper, seeded and chopped Toouto, quartered Ihnne
2
621
1 rib I 2
1
Oregano JlJy le:lI'es BLIck peppercorns Jltite wine
I sprig I sprig I sprig
I sprig 1 sprig 1 sprig
3 8
latcr
3 c.
Chipolle chiles Cider vinegar Tomato paste Kosher salt Ptppcr
2 I oz. 21bsp.
3 8 250 ml 720 ml 2 30 ml 30 ml
IT IT
IT IT
benu~'
I c.
L Heat the olive oil in a large sauce pan. Add the onion, celery, carrot, garb: and green bell pepper. Cook unlil lhe vegelables are tender. (You can
aJso add any leftover scraps of squash from the previous recipe.) 2 \dd the tomato, herbs, bay leaves, peppercorns, wine and water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and allow the broth to simmer for 1 hour. i SIJain the brOl:h and return it to the sauce pan and reduce by one-half. l thisk in the chiles, vinegar and tomato paste. Cook for an additional 1S minutes. Season with salt and pepper. l-m..ts per 7.m. (230-g) SC1\'ing, Calories 60. Total Cal 1.5 g, Saturaled rat 0 g. Coo. I!IIroI Omg, Sodium 170 mg, Tomt carbohydrates 10 g. Prolrin 1 g, Vlmmin A 60%, Vlmmln C
". a _-lowfat;
00 ,~erol:
good
50UfCe
of fiber
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 22. 1;
WARM MUSHROOM SAIAD Wl11I GRlUED EGGPlANT AND WHITE TRUFFLES BISUOP'S RESTAURANt', VA.'\COlJ\'ER, Be Chefs Michael Affemeler alld Dellllis Green
Yield: 4 Servings ,bpanese eggplam, large QIr.·c oil SJIt and pepper Garlic dOI'es, minced Slulkxs, sliced F~h thyme, chopped O)'S!er mushrooms Dr}' sherry Bllsamic vinegar
• 1
1
4 1bsp.
60 mI
IT
IT
2 1/2 c. 2 sprigs 8 oz. 21bsp. 2 Thsp.
2 120 ml 2 sprigs 250 g 30 ml 30 ml
•
•
• •
Continued
•
•
•
• •
622
~.
ClW1'ER 22
Assorted baby greens, washed Fresh white truffle
4 c. I
I It I
1. Using a meat slicer or sharp knife, slice the eggplant lengthwise imol" inch G-millimeter) thick slices. Brush them with a small amount oil, season with salt and pepper and grill the eggplant over a med;~"'1 fire. Cook on both sides, just until tender, approximately 2 minutes. fer to a plate to cool. 2. [n a large saute pan, heat the remaining olive oil and saute the shallots until tender. Add the thyme and oyster mushrooms, and medium heat until the mushrooms are slightly softened, minutes. J, Add the sherry and vinegar to the pan and reduce slightly. the heat. 4. Arrange the eggplant in a ring in the center of each serving plate. (An vened glass may be used 10 help shape the eggplant.) Arrange the around the outside of the ring. 5. Spoon the mushroom mixture into the center of the eggplant zle some of the remaining liquid over the greens. Grate fresh whit""" over the salad. (If fresh truffles are not available, lightly drizzle a quality truffle oil over the finished salad.) Approximate V2tues per serving' Calories 240, Total ra! 14 g. Saturated fat 2~;'::~:::;: Sodium 63 mg. Total carbohydratcs 22 g, Protein 6 g, Vlumln A 28%, C high fiber
RECIPE 22.16
STIR-FRIED SNOW PEAS WI11l DRIED SHRIMP Yield: 6 3-oz. (9O-g) Servings Dried shrimp Snow peas Garlic, chopped Vegetable oil Sesame oil Water chestnuts, sliced Salt
Method: Sauteing 1 oz.
lO g
1 lb.
500 g
2 tsp. 2 oz. 1 tsp. 4 oz.
10m! 6Om! 5m! 120 g IT
IT
1. Soak the dried shrimp in hQ( water for 15 minutes. Drain well. 2. Snap the snow peas and remove the strings. J, Blanch the snow peas and refresh. 4. Stir-fry the garlic and shrimp in the vegetable and sesame oils for onds. Add the water chestnuts. 5. Add the snow peas and slir-fty until tender, approximately 1 minute. son to taste with salt. Approximate values per 3-oz. (9O.g) serving' Calories 140, Tow rat !O g. Saturated fat lesterol 0 mg, Sodium 590 mg, TOlal earbohydrales 8 g, Protein 3 g, Vilamln C ~
YFlJEfAlJLF.S
RECIPE 22. 17
GLAZED PEARL ONIONS Yodd: lib. (4;0 g)
Method: Boiling
Pt2rI onions, peeled 1'boIe boner
;,ga'
Sah and pepper Pbce the onIons, bulter and $Ug
l ib.
500 g
I 1/2 oz.
45 g
IThsp.
15 mI
IT
IT
~auLt:
pail ;mu aull t:llough water to
barely cover. Boil the onions, allowing the water to evaporate. As the water evaporates, the butter-and-sugar mixture will begin to coat the onions. When the water is nearly gone, test the done ness of the onions. If they are still firm, add a mall amount of water and continue to boil until the onions are tender. S3U1e the onions in the buucr·and-sugar mixture until they are glazed. Vegetables such as carrolS, turnips, zucchini and Other squashes
also be glazed with this procedure. They should be Cut into appropriate ~~;~ka,;;s,:a tourne and be large enough so that they glaze properly with~ When preparing a mix of glazed vegetables, cook each type because each has a different cooking time. loalues per 2-<1l. (6()..g) serving: Calories 70, Tocal rat 4.5 g, Saturated rat 2.5 g, ChoWrng. SodIum 340 mg, Tow carbohrdra1es 8 g, Protein I g
i======= ~ ======= RECIPE 22. 18
MAPLE-GLAZED CARROTS Method: Sauteing
Ydd: 16 4-oz. (I20-g) Servings
CmOIS 1'hole buner Salt ~nd pepper lIa~esyrup
fresh parsley, chopped
4 lb. 4 oz. IT
1.8 kg 120 g IT
4 oz. 2 Thsp.
120 ml 30ml
Pte! !he carrots and cut into a shape such as oblique, tourne or rondellc. Parboil !he carrots in salt water and refresh. The carrots should be velY linn. Saute !he carrots in bulter umil nearly tender. Season with salt and pepper, and add the maple syrup. Cook briefly, tossiIg !he carrots so that they are coated with the maple syrup. Garnish with !be parsley. . ..." "1~ per 4-<1z. (]28-g) serving: Calorie!! 120. Total fat 6 g, Saturated fat 3.5 g, ChoIS mg, Sodium 260 mg, Tow carbo hydrates 16 g, Protein 1 g, Vitamin A 2~, Vitamin
r'l:!\.
623
624
~
CJWl1!R 22
============ ~ ==========~ RECIPE 22. 19
CREMfED CORN WITH BASIL Yield: 10 +Oz. (tW-g) Servings
Method: SaUleq
Com Whole butter Onion, small dice
4 Ol.
Heavy cream
Boz.
250 ml
Basil leaves, chopped
21bsp.
30m!
Salt and white pepper
IT
IT
12 ears 2 oz.
12 ears 60g 120 g
1. Cut the kernels from the ears. 2. Saute the onions in the butter without browning.
3.
Add the corn and saute until hOL
4. Add the cream. Bring to a boil and reduce slightly. Add the basil and!lt son with salt and white pepper. Approximate values per 4-oz. (J2G-g) se1Ving, Calories 210, Tow fal 14 g. Satur:ilte.:! W 8,,~ Ie5terol 45 mg, Sodium 290 mg, Tow carbohydnotes 19 g. Prolein 3 g, Vlwnin A J~
========== ~ ======== RECIPE 22.20
RArATOUILLE Yield: 164-02. (120-g) Servings Onion, medium dice Garlic, chopped Olive oil Green bell pepper, medium dice Red bell pepper, medium dice Eggplant, medium dice Zucchini, medium dice Tomato concassee Fresh basil, chiffonade Salt Pepper
Method: Sauleq
6 oz. 6 oz.
360 g 15 ml 120 ml 180 g 180 g
12 oz.
J60g
80l.
250 g 620 g
12 oz.
1 Tbsp. 4oz,
24ol, I Ol,
loz, IT
30g 30g rr
1. Saute the onion and garlic in the olive oil. 2. Add the peppers, eggplant and zucchini and saute until lender, a
mately 10 minutes. j. Add the tomatoes, fresh basil and seasonings. Saute for 5 minUles.. the seasonings. Approximate values per 4-<:Iz. (!2().g) serving; Calories 90, Tolal fat 7 g, Saturated fat I g. a.t terol 0 mg, Sodium 690 mg. Total carbo hydrates 6 g. Protein I g, Vitamin C 35%. sarurated fat; no cholesterol
~======== ~ ============ RECIPE 22.2 1
GARIJC TiMBALES Yield: 8 2-oz. (60-mi) Timbales
Heavy cream Eggs Dried thyme Sall and pepper
Method: Baking
10
10
3 oz. s oz.
90ml 250 ml
2 1 tsp. IT
5 ml IT
2
Place the garlic in a small saucepan, add enough water to cover and bring 10 a boil. Dr.lin. Repeat this blanching procedure 2 more limes.
Pl.ace the garlic in a blender with the milk and blend. Add the cream, eggs
aOO thyme; blend until sm()(){h . Season with sail and pepper. Oil'ide the custard among the timbales and place in a water bath. Bake for 30-45 minutes al 325°F (l60°C). Run a paring knife around the rim and unmold onto the serving plate. Broccoli or cauliflower timbales. Place 1 ounce (30 grams) of broccoli or cauliflower in each buttered timbale before adding the . : C\j""d mixture. ~"
I'aloes per 2~z. (/iQ.g) serving: Calorie;; 130, Total. fat 12 g, Saturated fat 7 g, Choles.." .,,'m 320 mil. Total. carbohrd rale5 3 g. Protein 3 g. Vitamin A IN
F=========== ~ =========== RECIPE 22. 22
ARTICHOKES STUFFED WI11I ITALIAN SAUSAGE Method: Braising
YJdd: 8 Servings
Bulk sausage meat Onion, chopped fine Garlic, chopped fine Cumin, ground Fresh Cilantro, chopped fresh thyme Fresh bread crumbs Tmosauce Salt and pepper Olr,eoil Oticken stock
8 I lb. lib. 21bsp. 1 tsp.
4 oz. 2 tsp. 4 oz. IT IT
2 oz. 1 qt.
8
500 g 500 g 30 ml 5 ml 120 g 10 ml 120 g IT IT 60ml I II
Continued
626 '"""
ClIAPl1!R 22
/ , Trim the stem and barbs from the anichokes, Using a tablespoon, SClXf out the choke from the center of each anichoke. 2, Cook the sausage meat, breaking it up into small pieces, Pour off the It Add the onions and garlic and saute until tender. 3. Add the cumin, cilantro, lhyme and bread cmmbs. Season with T:Jbia sauce, salt and pepper. 4. Stuff the artichokes with the sausage mixture. 5. Place the artichokes in a braising pan and drizzle with olive oil. Add chicken stock. 6. Bring the stock to a boil. Cover and braise until the anichokes at{' look approximately 1 hour. Appruximate Wh,IC$ per $Crving: Caloria 420, Total rat 26 g, Saturaled fal 7 g. Cholcsal mg, Sodium 1270 mg, ToW carbohydrates Z9 g, Prote in 18 g, Vitamin C 30%. DIca I lron 2Q1j,
============ ~ ========== RECiPE 22.23
MIXED BEAN SAIAD Method: BOOinf!
Yield: 12 3-oz. (9O-g) Servings Green beans, cut in 1/2-in. (l.2-crn) pieces White wine vinegar Olive oil Lemon juice Lemon peel, grated Garlic cloves, crushed White wine Dried red chile, chopped fine Red kidney beans, soaked and cooked Chickpeas, soaked and cooked Lima or cannellini beans, soaked and cooked Green onions, chopped Salt and pepper
4 oz. 2 oz. 3 oz. Ilbsp. 1 esp. 2 1 Thsp. I
120 g 60 ml
90ml 15 ml
;ml 2 15 ml I
8 oz. 8 oz.
2;0 g 250 g
8 oz. 1 bunch
250 g
IT
IT
I bunch
1. Steam the green beans until done but still crisp, approximately 3-4 .. utes.
2. To make the dressing, combine the white wine vinegar, oli\'e oil, leDd juice, lemon peel, garlic, white wine and chile. 3. Mix together all the drained beans and peas, and pour the dressing 0't'I them. Add the green onions, season with salt and pepper and tOS$ !O a. bine. j\'Iarinatc for several hours before serving. Approximate w lue$ per 3-0~ (8;'g) serving: CaIorics 150, Total fal 8 g, Saturated fat I s ew.. tcro1 0 mg, Sodium 21 0 mg, Total carbohydralcs 14 g, Protein 5 g, Iron 1tM, CJaims...b"_ r.lIed fat ; no cholesterol; good sou rce of fiber
VEGEWJLES ""_
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 22.24
BAKED B EANS NOTe
7!is d;sb ~ in /he 1M Cbop/e>' Cl>ening p/KJIvg"'p'.
11/2 qt. 0.5 11)
Method: Baking
Nonhero beans, soaked
1 oz.
450 g 120 g 109
3 oz. 3 oz.
90g 90g
8 oz. 2 Thsp. I Thsp. 2 Thsp.
30 ml 15 ml
IT IT
IT IT
lib.
4 oz.
Onion, small dice .Wheim chile, small dice liO=s ProI\'T1 sugar ~"'P
Prepared mustard Cider vinegar brestcrshire sauce Tabasco sauce ~ and pepper
250 g 30 ml
Stmmer the beans in water until almost tcnder, approximately 45 minutes.
O!i.in well. I (»mb;"e the remaining ingredients, blending well. sauce to the beans, tossing to coal thoroughly. Adjust the seasonr.gs. the beans in a hotel pan or a 2-quart (2-liter) baking dish. Cover and bake in a 3sooF 0 80°C) oven until the beans are completely Icnder, approximately 30-40 minutes. IIll uc:s per }OZ. (9O-g) 5Crving: Calories 120, Total fal 0 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Choles..~:,'~:'::; 490 mg, Total carbo hydrates 26 g, Protelll " g. Vitamin C l ~ Clalms-fal
.
'''''
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 22.25
FENNEL AND M USHROOMS
A LA
rid
Musl\rooms, small Pearl onions, peeled Olh'e oil 'While wine
While stock Tomato concassee
Tomato paste lemon juice
Coriander, ground Bouquet garni: Carrol stick, 4 in. 00 em) leek, split, 4~i n . (lO-cm) piece fresh thyme Bay leaf
GRECQUE Method: Boiling
lib.
4 oz. 2 oz.
4 oz. 1 pt. 12 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 {Sp.
1 sprig
2
500 g 120 g 60 ml 120 ml 500 ml 360g 30 g 30 ml
5 ml
1 sprig 2 CO fll irlued
627
628
~
CHAPTER 22
Salt and pepper Fennel, batonnet
IT
IT
1 lb.
500 g
1. Wash lhe mushrooms and trim the stems. 2. Saute the onions in the olive oil, browning lightly. Add lhe whiu: stock, tomato concassee, tomato paste, lemon juice, coriander and gami. Season to taste with salt and pepper and bring to a boil. j. Add the fennel and mushrooms and simmer for 15 minutes. 4. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. RelllOll bouquet garni. Adjust the seasonings and refrigerate. Serve chilled. Approximate values per 3-<Jz. <9O-g) serving: Calories 60, Total {at 3.5 g, Saturated fat 0 g. luol 0 mg, SodIum 240 mg, Total cubohydralCS 5 g, Protein 2 g, Vitamin Cl'" ,""'_, . ur-ued fat; no choleSlerol
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 22.26
TURNIP
PUREE
Sl'ANFORO COURT IIOTEL, &\.... FIt.\.'
Yield: 8 oz. (250 g) Russet potato, peeled, large dice Turnip, peeled, large dice Garlic, chopped Whole butter Heavy cream Salt and pepper
2 oz.
60g
6 oz.
ISO g 2 ml
1I21Sp.
l oz. I 112 oz.
JOg
IT
IT
45 ml
1. Cook the potatoes and turnips separately in salted water until and puree in a food mill.
ten'~""
2. Combine the garlic, butter and cream and bring to a boil. Add tlO uh'F" and turnip mixture and season with salt and pepper. Approximate values per seEVing: Calories 60, Total (at 5 g, Saturated fat 3 g, Sod1um 330 mg. Total carbohydrates 3 g, Pnnc in 0 g, Vitamin A 4%
Cho~
I
============== ~ ============= RECIPE 22.27
SWISS CHARD WIlli lEMON AND PINE
NlffS
Yield: 8 3-oz. C90-g) Servings Swiss chard, trimmed, stems and leaves separated Water Lemon juice Extra virgin olive oil Sail and pepper Pine nuts, toasted and chopped
2 lb.
1 kg
I pI.
500ml 60ml 60ml
2 oz. 2 oz. IT
IT
2 oz.
60g
VE6ETAlllES '""'"
Cut the chard into 1· \0 2-incb (2.5- to ;-centimeter) strips on a diagonal. Combine the chard, water and 1 ounce (30 grams) of lemon juice in a nonIt.lC1il'c pan. Simmer until tender, stirring frequently, approximately 10-15
Drain. Toss with the remaining lemon juice and the olive oil. Season with saIl and pepper and arrange on plales. Garnish with the pine nuts . . ."'" ,"~ IP" ~z. C90-g) serving: Calories 220, Tow fal 12 g, Satur.lted fal 1.5 g, Chomg, 1020 mg. Tou! carl>obydr.ltes 19 g, Protein 8 g. Vitamln A 130%. Vitamin Iron SO%. Claim$-no coole&ero!; higtl fiber
RECIPE 22.28
BRAISED RED CABBAGE WITH APPLES AND WINE fldd: 164-oz. (I20-g) Servings
Method: Braising
Red cabbage
31b.
Baron, medium dice
12
Onions, medium dice
80z. IT 8 oz. 8 oz.
SraIt and
pepper
Red wine 'l'hile stock
1.4 kg 360 g 250 g
oz.
IT
250 mI 250 ml
2
Apples, tan, cored and diced Brown sugar Cider ~inegar
2 360 g
12 oz.
loz,
JOg
2 oz.
60 ml
Shred the cabbage. Render the bacon. Add the onions and sweat in the bacon fat until tender. Add the cabbage and saU((:- for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the wine, stock and cinnamon sticks. Cover and braise until the cabooge is almost tender, approximately 20 minutes. Add the apples, brown sugar and vinegar and mix well. Corer and braise until the apples are tender, approximately 5 minutes. ,'aIues per 4-oz. (l20-g) serving: Calories 170, Total ral II g, Satur;lled ral 4 g, CJto. mg. Sodium S40 mg, TolaJ ca.rbohydrales II g. Prolei n 8 g, Vitamin C SO%
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 22.29
BRAISED ROMAINE LErrUCE YJdd: 12 Se,vings
Onion. small dice Ce1el)', small dice Carrot, small dice Bacon, small dice
Method: Braising 3 heads 8 oz. 8 oz.
8 oz. 8 oz.
3 heads 250 g 250 g 250 g 250 g Continued
629
630 '"""
CIIAPJEJI 22
Brown slock
24 oz.
700ml
Salt and pepper
IT
IT
1. Trim the lettuce heads. Blanch them in salted boiling water and refresh. 2. Combine the onions, celery, carrots, bacon and brown slOck in a and simmer for JO minutes.
Quarter the heads of romaine and trim off most of the core, leaving' enough to hold the leaves together. 4. Pour the brown stock mixture into a hotel pan and arrange the IetnJre II> lions in the pan. Season with salt and pepper.
j.
5. Cover the pan and braise in a 35O"F OSOOC) oven fIOO;',t~~::::~ hour. Serve each portion with vegetables, bacon and a () ing liquid.
Approximate values per 5.oz. (BZ-g) serving: Calories 140, Total fat 10 g, Saturllle
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 22.30
CUCUMBER-YOGURT SAlAD Yield: 1 qt. (1 It) Plain yogurt
I pI.
SOOm!
Cucumber, peeled and grated
12 oz. I tsp. IT 1/2 oz.
J60g
Cumin Salt and pepper Sugar Lime juice Fresh cilantro, chopped Jalapeno, minced Paprika
1/2 oz. 2 Thsp. I tsp. as needed
5m! IT
15 g
15 ml 30 mI
Sm! as needed
1. Stir together all the ingredients except the paprika. Chill for several before service. 2. Dust the ~ lightly with paprika at the time of service.
a.J_'"
Approximate Ylllues per }-oz. (S5-g) serving; Calories 40, Total fal 0 g, S,aluraled fa!: 0, IeroI O mg, SodIum 280 mg, Total carbohrdnlC$ 7 g, ProIdn 3 g, Calcium ' ' ' ' low c::dorie
HAPTER
OTATOE~
23
RAINS ~ AND
ASTA
TIw Jlflz Carl um, Ch icago, IL
E.\'eclIlI,'e Cbe/George Bumbarls
=== ~ === After slUdying this chapter, you will be able to: ~
identify a variety of potatoes
<"'0..
<"'0..
apply various cooking methods \0 potatoes identify a variety of grains
r'\'!I.
apply various cooking methods
r"a. r"a. ~
to grains identify pasta products make fresh pasla cook pasta
otatoes, graifls (com, ,ice, wheat and othe"rs~):a:;"d~~:~: collectively known tiS starches. Some of theseJoods a ers are grasses. Pastas, of COllrse, are prepared prodllcts """KJ"~ grains. Starches are, for the most pari, staple foods: foods tbal a cuisine and give it substance. All are high il1 sttlrchy carbobydraJ4 low ill/at and commol11y llsed as p011 oj a wef1~balanced meal. Today's chtqfs are rediscovering traditional and ethnic dishes IN rely on grains seldom used in typical American food seroice opem.
lions. Pasta, made fro m a variety of graills in l1UmerO/lS sbapes aM flavors alld accompanied by coul1tless sauces and garnishes, lie.. regularly appears 011 many menlls alongside tbe ubiqllitous fXiIi#i prepared in lIlany classic alld modern manl1ers.
P OT!JTOES .P.?-. Potatoes (Fr. pommes de len¥!) are one of the few vegetables native to the \eJ World, probably originating in the South American Andes. Botanically, ~ are succulent, non woody annual plants. TIle ponion we consume is !he ttbot the swollen fleshy part of the underground stem. Potatoes are hardy and ea.'I to grow, making them inexpensive and widely available.
Identifying Potatoes Discussed here are some of the more commonly used types of JXl{atoes. ()be! varieties are regularly being developed or rediscovered and tested in the mW! place. Choose potatoes that are heavy and very firm with clean skin and fewe')"tS. Avoid those with many eyes, sprouts, green streaks, soft spots, cracks a III edges. Most varieties are available all year.
Purple Potatoes Purple Potatoes
Purple (or blue) potatoes have a deep purple skin. The flesh is bright JXlIPt. becoming lighter when cooked. They are mealy, with a flavor and tC:\1UreSlmilar to russets. The most common varieties are All Blue and Caribe, whkh "m also quite (Xlpular in the mid-19th century.
Red Potatoes Red (Xltatoes have a thin red skin and crisp, white, waxy flesh, best suitedkl boiling or steaming. They do not have the dry, mealy texture successful bal· ing requires. New potatoes arc small, immature red potatoes usually marl:eItd during the early summer. When ordering red-skinned new potatoes, size Ai! larger than size B.
Russet Potatoes Russel (Xltatoes, commonly referred to as Idaho (Xltatoes, are the standanl baking (Xltato. TIley are long with rough, reddish-brown skin and mealy fbtL Russets are excellent baked and are the best potatoes for frying. They tend»
POTA1VES, GRAINS AND PASTA
("\!l,
635
when boiled. They are marketed in several size categories and should in the size most appropriate for their intended use.
'~,"",se
l\o 1"""0" are a\'ailable in round or long varieties. They ha\'e a thin, ten4:in with a tender, waxy yellow or white flesh. The smaller ones are somemarketed as new potatoes (not to be confused with new t:':~~.,;R~o~und white potatoes are also referred to as potatoes. Yukon Go[d and White Rose conunon \'arieties. Finnish Yellow (or Yellow Finn) is increasingly popular variety; it has a golden skin, :~, ~~:~ and buttery flavor. White potatoes are usually ruoisl heat or used for sauteing.
:
Russet Potatoes
:
Wbite Potatoes
fttI Potatoes
(\'( potatoes are from a different bounical fami ly Ihan o rdinary potatoes, althey are also tubers that originated in the New World. Two types are taDIlIOIIly available. One has yellow flesh and a dry, mealy texture; it is ~n as a boniato, white o r Cuban sweet potato. The other has a darker or. moister flesh and is high in sugar; it is known as a red sweet potato. lilt ~'pe5 have thick skins ranging in color from light tan to brownish red. Ion.iw<s dark-skinned sweet potatoes are erroneously labeled yallls.) Sweet should be chosen according to the desired degree of sweetness. They ~~~ ~;': for boiling, baking and pur(>eing, although the less sweet varideep-fried. The cooked flesh can also be used in breads, pies and ~gs. Sweet potatoes are available canned, often in a spiced or sugary
Sweet Potatoes
:
"'" a third type of tuber, botanically differem from both sweet and com:~;~.,y'Yams are less sweet than sweet potatoes, but they can be used
:
. The flesh of yams ranges from creamy while to deep red. Asian in origin and are now found in Africa, South America and the United States.
I
contain a high percentage of easily digested complex carbohydrates 'II or no fat. They are also a good source of many minerals and some
23.1
,n, NlIlRlTJONAL VALUES OF SELECTED POTATOES
n12-g) serving, in
~kin
Ked
Protein
Carbohydrates
Fiber
TOtal Fat
Niadn
(g)
(g)
(g)
(g)
(g)
28.6
0.7
0.1
21.7 31.2
2.4
<0.1
mq
02
124
93
1.6
132
1.7
NefWf HI/cye/opedla oj Food Va/lies 1992 qw.ntity. blu data is una\'2ilable
Phosphorous (mg)
POI:lssium
1.9 mq
64.8
0.4
33
475.5 mq 455
mq
(mg)
636 "'"
C1W'lER 23
Purchasing and Storing Potatoes Meab' Versus wt'l.\y One of the most important considerations in selcding potatoes is choosing ~ (ween the mealy and waxy varieties. You should underst:tnd the differeoos and purchase the lype best suited (0 your needs. Mealy potatoes (also known as starchy JXl{aloes) have a high stard! a» tenl and thick skin. They are beSI for baking and are often ordered from 9f
pliers simply as
" bakers. ~
Their low sugar content also allows them to
•.
fried long enough to fully cook the interior without huming The ,~,ri' M"':
potatoes lend to fall apart when boiled, making them :l good choice whipped or pureed potatoes. Waxy potatoes have a low starch COnten! and thin skin. They are ~~r:~ ing. They will not develop the desired fluffy texture when baked. 11 become limp and soggy when deep-fried because of their high moisture COO!eIl
TABLE
23.2 .n..
CoMPARISON OF MEALY AND W,,-W POTATOFS
Comcm of:
Best to:
Starch
Moisture
Sugar
high
low
low
low
high
high
Bake
Boil
Saute
Mealy; russet,
white rose, purple
Irmy: red, new (red), Finnish yellow
Grading Like other vegetables, potatOes are subject to the voluntary USDA grading~" tem. Although U.S. Fancy is the highest grade, most potatoes sold on dr wholesale market are U.S. No. I. Potatoes sold on Ihe retail market can 1l!lI be graded as either U.S. Grade A or U.S. Grade B.
Purc/)aS;'lg POlaloes are usually packed in 50-pound cartons. Counts vary dependingil average potato size. For example, in a l()()..count carton, each !X>Ia1o wWf weigh an avera~e of 8 ounces. Eighty-, <)().. and l flO..count canons are [he fIXIf common. Generaliy, larger-sized potatoes (that is, smaller coums) arc more apensive. Size does nOt affect quality, however, and selection should be txNd on intended use.
Storing Temperatures between 50°F and 65°F (IO°C-18°C) are best for storing ~ toes. Do nOt store potatoes in the refrigerator. At temperatures below.m (4°C), potatO starch IUrns to sugar, making the cooked product too sweet ani increasing the risk that the potato will turn gray or streaky when cooked. Peotoes with a high sugar content also burn more easily when fried. POlaIoes should be stored in a dark room, as light promOtes chloropl!)i production, mrning them green and bitter. Any green patches indicate the !Xl"
!'orAmES, GRAlNSANDPASTA
presence of solanine, a toxin harmful if eaten in large amounts, and be peeled away. Solanine is also present in the eyes and sprouts, and , should be removed and discarded before cooking. l'nder proper conditions, fresh potatoes should last for two months. Do not poIames until ready to use, as washing promotes spoilage.
Various Cooking Methods ha\'e a relatively neutml flavor, making them a perfea accompanito many savory dishes. They can be prepared with almost any dry- or cooking method: baking, &1uteing, pan-frying, deep-frying, boiling mnung. They can be combmed wIth other ingredients in braises and Potatoes are used in soups (vichyssoise), dumplings (gnocchi), breads, . (latkes), puddings, salads and even vodka. M an)' potato dishes, both classic and modern, employ more than one cookmethexL For example, lorette potatoes require boiling and deep-frying; browns require parboiling, then sauteing. Even french fries are best when blanched in hot oil.
potatoes are considered done when they are soft and tender or alTer lit. when pierced with a knife Ii;>. Fried potatoes should have a golden-brown surface; the interior sho'Jld be moist and tender.
I''''''' are often roasted with meat or poultry, becoming coated with the fat drippings released from the main item as it cooks. Either mealy or waxy I."'.'" peeled or unpeeled, can be roasted successfully. Mealy potatoes such as russets are ideal for baking. The skin is left intact, Ij~l!hit may be pierced with a fork 10 allow steam to escape. A lrue baked I pnlOs'o,"ld not be wrapped in foil or cooked in a microwave; this changes cooking method to steaming and prevents a crisp skin from forming. A , baked potato should be while and flulTy, not yellowish or soggy. potatoes can be eaten plain (or with buner, sour cream and other I lomishes) or used in other recipes.
1 ~0CEIlUR£ FOR BAKING POTATOES Scrub the potatoes well. l'sing a fork, pierce the potato skins. Rub the poIatoes with oil and salt if desired. Do nO{ wrap them in foil. B3ke the potatoes until done. A paring knife should penetrate them easily.
RECIPE 23.1
BAKED POTATOES lirk!: 8 Servings Russet potatoes
\'egt'lable oil Kosher S3lt
8 31bsp. 31bsp.
8 45 ml 45 ml Conlinlled
~~
637
638 """
C!Wl1iR 23 1. Scrub !.he potatoes weU, but do not peel them. Pierce the skin of eal potato to allow steam to escape. 2. Rub the potatoes with the oil, then sprinkle with kosher salt Place the potato on a rack aver a sheet pan. Bake in a 400"F(200OC)ownldi done, approximatel}' 1 hour. The p<>{aloes should yield (O gentle pre:ssx
j.
and a paring knife inserted in the thickest pan should meet linle resistltn. 4. Hold uncovered in a wamt spO! and serve within 1 hour. Approximate values per 75·oz. (214-g) pOtllO: Calories 270, Total fat 5 g, Satur.ttoo flll ; I- a. k:sterol 0 mg, Sodium 2630 mg. TOlal carbohydrates 51 g, ProleUI 5 g. Vlumin C 4~ ~ low satur;lIed fat; 110 chole$lcrol; good source of fiber
Baking en Casserole Many classic potato dishes require baking either raw or parboiled pota~ with sauce, cheese, meat or other seasonings in a baking dish or casserole, Wet. known examples include scalloped potatoes, which are baked in bechatrrl sauce, and au gratin, which are topped with cheese and baked. These disIks usually develop a crisp, brown cmst, which is part of their appeal. The casserole should hold its shape when CLLt; the potatoes should be te&der, and the sauce shou ld be smooth. not grainy. Potato casseroles can be fully baked. then held loosely covered in a ma table for service. Portions can be reheated or browned brieny under a IdrJ or salamander at service time.
PROCEDURE FOR BAKING POTATOES EN CAssEROLE 1. Prepare the p0(atoes by washing, peeling, slicing or partially cooking as
desired or as directed in the recipe. 2. Add the potatoes to the baking pan in layers, alternating with the sauce. cream, cheese or other ingredients. Or combine the potatoes with the 00ler ingredients and place in a buttered baking pan. 3. Bake the potatoes until done.
= = = = = = ....".",... = = = == RECIPE 23. 2
GRAJ'IN DAUPHINOISE Yield: 4-5 lb. 0.8-2.2 kg) Potatoes Whole butter Salt and white pepper Nmmeg Gmyere, grated Half-and-half Egg yolks
I . Layering gratin potatoes.
3 1b. as needed
1.3 kg as needed
IT
IT
1/4 tsp. 8 oz. 24 oz.
2011 250 g 700 mI
3
3
1. Peel the p0(atoes and cut into very thin slices. 2. Place a single layer of potatoes in a well-bunered, full-sized hotel pan. 3. Season with salt, pepper and a small amount of nutmeg. Sprinkle on am. layer of cheese. 4. Add another layer of potatoes, seasonings and cheese and repeat until at the potatoes and about three qu:uters of the cheese are used.
POTA70£S, GRAiNS AND PA5"Ei
~
Heatlhe half-and-half 10 a simmer. \X' hisk the egg yolks IOgether in a oowl, !hen gradually add Ihe hal half-and-half. , Poor the cream-and-egg mixlure over Ihe pOlatoes. Top with the remaining cheese. 8.:Ike uncovered at 3SOOF OSOOe) until the potatoes are tender and golden brown, approximately 50-60 minutes. \~ per 4o(lz. (l07·g) serving: Calories 160. Tow fat 8 g, Saturated fat 5 g, Cooks· -.lu IJI8. SOdium ]60 mg. To W carbohydrates ]S g, Protein 6 g. Vitamin C IS%. Calcium 15%
fllliing and Pall-Frying tu). potatoes, such as red- and white-skinned varieties, are best for sauteing «pan-frying. Often they are first parboiled or even fully cooked-a conve1m! way to use leftover boiled potatoes. TIley are then cooked in fat followIIgthe general procedures for sauteing and pan-frying discussed in Chapter 9, PrOOples of Cooking. The fat can be clarified buner, oil, bacon fat or lard, depending on the deEli flaror of the finished dish. The fat must be hot before the potatoes are md so thai they will develop a crust without absorbing 100 much fat. liUeed potatoes should have a crisp, well-browned crust and tender interior. lIrl'should be neither soggy nor greasy. imtoes can be S.1uteed or pan-fried by twO methods: IOssing and slillivilg. The tossing method is used to cook relatively small pieces of potaIIa in a small amount of fat. TIle potatoes are tossed using the pan's ~ sides so that they brown evenly on all sides. lbe still-frying IISbod is used to create a disc-shaped potato product. TIte shredded or i:td pwtoes are added to the pan, usually covering its bouom, and albI,\'d 10 cook without stirring or flipping until they are well browned on Wfirst side. The entire mass is then turned and cooked on the second U:_ When the potatoes are done, they can be Cllt into wedges for service. MnURE fOR SAUTEING AND PAN- FRYING POTATOF$
1 \I:'ash, trim, peel, cut andlor cook the potatoes as desired or as directed in the recipe. 1 Heallhe pan, add the fat and heat the fat. Add the potatoes to the hot fat. Do nO( overcrowd the pan. Use enough fat to prevent the potatoes from sticking to the pan. Depending on the recipe, use either the tossing method or still-frying method. J AM garnishes, seasonings and other ingredients as desired or as directed in the recipe. i Cook the potatoes until done.
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 23.3
LYONNAlSE POTATOES r!tld: 84-oz. (I2Q-g) Servings P~loeS , waxy variety Onion, julienne
21b. 8 oz.
I kg
250 g Contil/ ll cd
2, Finished gratin pOtatoes.
639
640
C\!\.
CIIAPIER 23
Clarified butter Salt and pepper
4 oz.
120ml
IT
IT
1. Partially cook the pot:noes by baking, boiling or steaming. AHow to col 2. Peel and cut the potatoes into 1/4-inch (l/2-cemimeter) thick slice. 3. Saute the onions in half of the butter until tender. Remove the onionsfi the pltn with a slotted spoon and set aside. 4. Add the remaining butter to the pan. Add the potatoes and saUlt'!, 1~ as needed , until well browned on all sides. 5. Return the onions to the pan and S<1Ute to combine the flavors. Seasoo taste with salt and pepper.
== ~ ==
Approxim~!e
values per 4-{lz. OW-g) serving: CaloriC!! 170. TOlal fat 12 g. Saruraleil lin - ~ 0. lC!!lcrol 30 mg. Sodium 650 mg, TOIa t carboh}'dralC!! 16 g, Prolein 1 g, Vllamin A 10'1
MORE TJlAN A FRFlI'OI FRY
111anks 10 the genius of C:u-eme, Escomer:md others, few vegetables hare as extensive a classic repertoire as potatoes, Some of these dishes begin willl the duchesse potatoes mixture; in ulis regard, duchesse potatoes can be considered the mother of many classic potato preparations. For example, Duchesse + Tomato concassee = Marquis Duchesse + Chopped truffles + Almond coating + Deep-frying = Bemy Duchesse + Pate achoux = Dauphine Dauphj!l~ + Gralw Panllt:>
Other classic potato preparations not based 011 duchesse potatoes include: Amlfl-Ihin slices are arranged in several circular layers in a round p:Ul coated wilh clarified butter; additional butter is brushed on. :Uld the potalre'i all' baked until crisp, then cut into I,;edges for serl'ice. Boukmgere---onions and potatoes are sauteed in butter, then transferred to a baking pan or added to a partially cooked roast in a roasting pan; stock is added. and the potatoe; are cooked unCO\'ered until done. Ci0tellu-toumeed potatOffi are sauteed in clarified buller until golden and soft. Parls·jenne-small spheres are cut from raw. peeled potatoes with a parisienlle scoop; they are seasoned illld sauteed in clarified bUller, then tossed with a meat glaze and g.1mished with chopped parsley. ROsH-potatoes are shredded. seasoned and pnn-fried in the shape of a pie, then cut into wedges for service.
Deep-Frjling Potato chips and french fries (Fr. pommefrites) are extremely popularinllr riety of shapes, sizes and seasonings. Although a wide range of shapes. rueand preseasoned frozen products are available, fres h fried potatoes can be. delicious, economical menu item. Top-quality nJsset potatoes are recommended for deep-frying. The jXfI may be removed or left attached. [f peeled, the potatoes should be sooked clear, cold water until ready to cut and cook. This keeps them crisp and w by leaching some of the starch that might otherwise make the potatoesgwtllll or cause smaller cuts to stick together when cooked. Deep-fried potatoes are usually blanched in oil ranging in lempera!Uref
250°F to 300°F (120°C-150°C) until tender and translucent. They are tIa drained and held for service, at which time lhey are fi nished in honer oil.lli
Boiling Waxy potatoes are best for all moist-heat cooking methods. Boiled potal(O (which are adualJy simmered) may be served as is or used in multistep JlIlll" rations such ,IS purees, salads, soups and baked casseroles. Potatoes are USuab' boiled in w
• POTA7rJES, GRA1NSANOPtISJjI
! Add the potatoes to enough cool liquid to cover them by several inches. Bring [0 a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook until done. If a slightly firm finished product is desired, remove and drain the potatoes when they arc !
slightly underdone and allow canyovcr cooking to finish cooking them. Dr.lin me potatoes in a colander and serve or use for further preparation.
============= ~ ============== RECIPE 23.4
DUCHESSE POTATOES 'lcld: 2 lb. (I kg)
PoIaloes, peeled and quartered
I kg 30 g
Whole bUller '\ulmeg
2 lb. I oz. IT
IT
~h
IT
IT
Qarified bUller
2 as needed
2 as needed
and pepper Eggs Egg yolks
J. Boil the polaloes in salted water until tender. Drain and immediately turn OUt
onto a sheet pan to allow the moisture to evaporate.
/. ,"'Me still w:um, press [he potatoes through a ricer or food mill, or grind
through a grinder's medium die. Blend in the butter and season to taSte with nUlmeg, salt and pepper. J. ~lix in the eggs and egg yolks, blending well. t Transfer the duchesse mixture to a piping bag fitted with a large star tip. Pipe single ponion-sized spirals onto a parchment-lined sheet pan. Bmsh with clarified butter and bake at 37;oF 090°C) untillhe edges are golden hrown, approximately 8-10 minutes. Serve immediately. ls.lG£: Duchesse potatoes are often used to decorate platters used for bufkt,. ubleside preparations or to present chateaubriand . To create borders and ~mbhes, the st:tnd:trd mixture for duchesse potatoes is forced through a pip'Ilg rug while still very hot and relatively soft. , ~ l-alues per Wz. (94-g) serving: Calories 120, Total r~t 3.5 g. S~tUl":ltoo f;lt 2 g. ChobIrroI 6; mg. Sodium 2500 mg. Total carbohr dr.ues 18 g. Protein j g. V(lami n C 20%
I. Pas.sing boiled potatoes through a food mill.
2. Piping dllchesse potatoes.
J. The finished potatoes.
~,
641
642 "'"
CIWWI 23
GRAlNS .h> BOianically, grains arc grasses that bear edible seeds. Corn, rice and the most significant. Both the fruit (that is, the seed or kernel) and the arc called a grain. Most grain kernels arc protected by a hull or husk All kernels are posed of three distinct parts: the bran, endosperm and germ. Set> 23.1. The bran is the tough outer layer covering the endosperm. Bran' source of fiber and B vitamins. The endosperm is the largest part of the nel and is a source of protein and carbohydrates (starch). It is the primarily in milled products such as flou r. The germ is the smallest the grain and is the only part that contains fat. It is also rich in bran, endosperm and germ can be separated by milling.
to"''''',,.·
Identifying Grains
Cracklng-a milling process in u1Jich grains art bromI CfJen.
Grindlng--.'I milling process hi It'bicb grains art rw/,ll;ff/lo II POtt:der; /be powder alii be 0/ differing (ifgrees ofimenllSS or coarseness. Hulllng-a millingjJrocess in which lbe bull' is relIIOt.'I!!d from
grains.
Pearling-a milling process in U"bidJ all or pari ofthe hull, bran find germ art retnOI'trifrom graitlS.
This section presents information on corn, rice and wheat as well as 5eltIlI minor grains that are nutritionally significant and gaining popularity. Some prodUdS are available in a stone-ground form. This means tIw grains were ground with a stone mill rather than by the steel blades used for cracking, grinding, hulling and pearling. Stone grinders tier and more precise, so they are less likely to overgrind the grain. ground products will always be labeled as such and are usually more sive than steel-ground ones.
Corn Corn (Sp. maiz; It. gra1l/ureo) is the only grain that is also eaten fresh 1S1 vegetable. (Fresh corn is discussed in Chapter 22, Vegetables.) Its use aSJ dried grain dates back several thousand years in Central America and \ongptceded its use as a vegetable.
"'"
A..ileal plane.
FIGURE 23.1
Wheal
POTA70rs, GRAiNS AND pAST,t
C""\!\.
643
Cornmeal Cornmeal is made by drying and grinding a specbl type of corn known as which may be yellow, white or blue" Cornmeld is most often used in as a coating for fried foods or cooked as polenta or mush. Products with cornmeal have a gritty lex1ure and a sweet but starchy Oavor.
COn/n1eo/
"",my, ''''0 known as posole or samp, is dried corn tbat has been SOli ked lime or lye. This causes the kernels to swell, loosening the hulls. hulls and germs are removed and the kernels dried. These white or yelkernels resemble popcorn, but with a soft , chewy texture and smoky-sour Hominy is available dried or cooked and canned. It may be served as dish or used in stews or soups. Masa harina, a finely ground Oour from hominy, is used for making breads. tortillas, tamales and other and southwestern dishes.
Grits are traditionally made by grinding dried hominy. These tiny white
Homi,,),
may be used in baked dishes but are most often served as a hot ","as! '''"''', usually topped with butter or cheese. Quick-cooking :tnd ingrits are available.
rir. It
Sp. arroz) is the starchy seed of a semiaquatic grass. Probthe Indbn subcontinent or in Southeast Asia, rice is used 1 !Uple by more than half the world's population. ~ can be incorporated into :tlmost any cuisine, from Asian to Spanish 1O French. Its flavor adapts to the foods and seasonings with which the ~ cooked or served. Its texture adds an appeltling chewiness to meat and "'y dishes, salads, breads and puddings. Rice is not limited to a side dish, used in stews or curries, for slllffing vegetables or game birds, in salads, beverages (such as borcbata) and breads. IKe is di\"ided into three types based on seed size: long-grain, mediumand short-grain. Long-grain rice is the most versatile and popular ",,"""le., TIle grains remain firm , Ouffy and separate when cooked. (Longcan. however, become sticky if overcooked or stirred frequently dur~~~~:~: Shon-grain rice has more starch and becomes quite tender and cooked. Italian risotto, Japanese zushi and Spanish paella are all risfl,
~"arigi""I;ng on
I,Ulioll>.
:
~~~;~i~made with shan-grain rice. The appearance and starch content of
:
1
rice falls somewhere in between. Medium-grain rice becomes cool. so it is beSt eaten freshly made and piping hot. Ioo!"g"';;''. medium-grain and short-grain rice are available in different forms. All rice is originally brown. The grains can be left whole, bran attached, for brown rice. Or they can be pearled for the more polished white rice. Both brown rice and while rice can be processed OOIwen.ed rice and instant rice. Coo\'tned rice is parboiled to remove the surface starch. This procedure forces nutrients from the bran into the grain's endosperm. Therefore, canrice retains more nutrients than regular milled white rice, although the is the same. Converted rice is neither precooked nor instant; in fact, it more slowly than regular milled white rice. IDAant or quick-cooklog rice is widely available and useful if time is a 1::~;[:n~S1:;,a'nt rice is created by fully cooking then flash-freezing milled rice. , this processing removes some of the nutrients and flavor.
CO"()f!fted Kice
644 '""'.
CIWl1!R 23
•
Arborio Rice
,
Arborio is a round, shan-gra in rice used primarily in Italian dishes risotto. It is very sticky, with a white color and mild flavor.
Basma/i Rice Basrnati is o ne of the fi nesl long-grain rices in the world. malayan foothills and is preferred in Indian cuisine. It is a sweet, delicate flavor and a creamy yellow color. Ilasmati e '~D~'~: to improve its aromatic Qualities and should be washed well b
81'own Rice Brown rice is the whole natura l grain of rice. Only the husk has been removed. Brown rice has a nutty flavor; its chewy texture is caused by the high-fiber bran. Brown rice absorbs more water and takes longer to cook than wh ile rice.
& smati Rice
Wild Rice Wild rice is prepared in the same manner as traditional rice, although it actually {he seed of an unrelated reedlike aq uatic plant. Wild rice has kq sle nder grains with a dark brown to black color. It has a nunier Oaror ar.J
,
chewier texture than traditional rice. Three grades are available: giant (the Illl quality, with very long grains); fancy (a medium-sized grain, suitable for IIXIII purposes); and select (a short grain, suitable for soups, pancakes or W goods). Cultivated in California, Idaho and Washington, it is generally.;entJj with game, used as a stuffing for poultry or combined with regular rice fa- I side dish. wild rice is expensive, but small quantities are usually suffidenL
Wi'" Nice
Wild Pecan Rice
Wild pecan rice is neilher wild nor made with pecans. II is a unique kif grain rice grown only in the bayou country of southern louisiana. Wild peon rice has a nutty flavor and exceptionally rich aroma. I
Guidelines/or Cooking Rice
If'ild Pecan Nice
Rice may be rinsed before cooking to remove din and debris, but doing !III also removes some nUlrients. It is nOt necessary to rinse most Amcrican·glO'n rice as it is generally dean and free of insects. a iee may also be soaked befm cooking. Soaking softens the grains, removes some starch and speeds ~
TABLE
23.3
J'!r> GUIDELINES FOR COOKL' G RICE .Ratio
Rice: Water
Type of Rice
(9y Volume)
Preparation
Arborio
White, lo ng-gra in (regular milled)
I I I I I
Do nOt rinse or soak Rinse well; soak Do nO( rinse; can sook Do not rinse Do nOi rinse
Wild
1:3
Basmati
Brown, long-grain Converted
: 2.5-3 : 1.75 : 2.5 : 2.5 :2
Rinse
Cooking Time ' (simmering)
Yield from 1 Cup RawRi:t
15-20 min.
2.5-3 c.
15
J ,.
min.
4)--,50 min. 20--25 min.
)-4,.
15 min. 3>-60 min.,
)-4,
depending on grade
)-40.
J ,.
POTATOf:S, GRAiNS AND PASTA
~
645
The stand1rd ratio for cooking rice is 2 parts liquid to 1 part rice. The acratio varies, however, depending on the type of rice. Guidelines for cookare found in Table 23.3. cooked, rice is highly perishable. Because of its neutral pH and high content, cooked rice is a potentially hazardous food. To avoid the risk ~~;~:e illnesses, be sure to Store cooked rice out of the temperature
bfe") is most onen milled into the wide rangc of flours discussed in
29, Principles of the Bakcshop. But wheat and products derived from also used as starchy side dishes or ingredients in soups, salads, ground .. d,hes and breads. TIlese products include cracked wheal, bulgur and . \'(Then cooked, they are slightly chewy with a mild flavor. All should .j none should be soggy or sticky. lbeatgerm and IlIbeat bran are widely available and highly louted for their
valucs. Bran and germ are not generally used plain, but may be to bread or other cooked dishes.
Czacked whcat is the whole wheat kernel (known as a berry) broken into -'-0
--g--- of coarseness.
It is not precooked, and the kernel's white in-
I be visible. The bran and germ are still intact, SO cracked wheat
gmt deal of fibcr but a short shelf life. Whole wheat berries must be for scvcral hours before cooking. Cracked wheat can be fully cooked • P'g, !.moe simmering.
Blllgllr
&ilgur Bulgur is a wheat berry that has had the bran removedj it is then steam-
Died. dried and ground into varying degrees of co;lrseness. Bl.Ilgur has a de fla\·or and texture; it is a uniform golden-brown color (uncooked lDCi:ed wheat is not) and requires less cooking time than cracked wheat. Genl1li)., cracked wheat and bulgur cannot be substituted for one another in
. ..
II\J<S. &lgur needs only to be soaked in water, then drained, for use in salads, or when used in stews or pilafs. Bulgur is good with grilled meaLS :b an aiternati\'e to rice in stuffings and other dishes. TIle fine grind is PI ofien uscd in packaged mixes sllch as tabouli; the medium grind is most ., ,,,iilil,ble in bulk. Ib!!l)' rooked
Cooscous is made by removing the bran and germ from durum wheat . TIle endosperm is tilen ste;mled, pressed to form tiny pellets and ~~~;:~I~;i.S available in varying degrees of coarseness; medium-fine is 11 . Couscous is prepared by steaming over water or stock in a a couscousier. CoUSCOllS, traditionally served with Nonh African ,can be used or served like rice.
:
Barle)' is one of the oldest culinary grains, used by humans since prehistoric Barley is extremely hardy, growing in climates from the tropics (0 the ",,·Atdie. Although much of the barley crop is used to make beer or feed
COIISCO /lS ,
., . '
.1..
Durum wheal---(l specifs of l'ery bard uiJeaJ /lith a particularly bigh amOllnt o/protein; it is IISed to mtl/ie ctJlISfX)IIS or Imlled hIIo semolina. u·hidJ is usedfor maki"g pasIa.
646 '"""
CIWID/ 23
animals, some does find ilS way into soups, stews and stuffings. The
common type is pearled to produce a small, round white nugge\ dosperm. It has a sweet, eanhy flavor similar to oats, and goes well onions, garlic and strong herbs. Barley's texture ranges from 105dt. pending on the amount of water in which it is cooked. Its sta"h;n"."'. used 10 thicken soups or stews.
BuckwheaflKasba • BIICRwbearlKasixl
•
Buckwheat is not a type of wheat; it is not even a grain. Rather. it is fruit of a plant distantly related to rhubarb. Buckwheat is included ever, because it is prepared and served in the same manner as grains. The whole buckwheat kernel is known as a groat. The product sold as buckwheat is actually kasha , which is a hulled, roasted groat. Kasha is reddish brown with a strong, nutty, almost scorched is available whole or ground to varying degrees of coarseness. Whole remains in separate grains after cooking; the finer grinds become ralher Kasha can be served as a side dish, usually combined wilh pasta 0""". or it can be chiUed and used in salads. Raw buckwheat groats are ground into flour typically used in pasta. and other pancakes. Buckwheat flou r contains no gluten-forming and it tends to remain grainy, with a sandy texture. Therefore, it should be substilUted for all the white or whole wheat flour in breads Of goods.
Oats
•
Oats
Afler rice, oats are probably the most widely accepted whole-grain in the American diet. OalS are consumed daily as a hot breakfast cereal meal) and are used in breads, muffins, cookies and other baked goods. An oat groat is the whole oat kernel with only the husk remo\'ed. tains both the bran and germ. Stee/-clll oars, sometimes known as Irish are groats that are toasled then cut into small pieces with steel blades. oats, marketed as ~ol d-fash ioned oats: are groats Ihal have been then rolled into flat fl akes. Quick-cooking oats are simply rolled oo.ts CUI smaller pieces to reduce cooking time. /1Is((l1/I oms are p",;,lly o,,'",e<1 •• dried before rolling so that Ihey need only 10 be rehydrated in a"'''''!''' Seveml flavored versions are also marketed as breakfast cereal. Rolled 0,",,", quick-cooking oats can be used interchangeably, but instant oalS should be substituted in most recipes. Oat brOIl is the outer covering of a hulled oat. It is available as a prodUCI, although rolled and cut oats do contain some oat bran. The term oatmeal is commonly used to refer to both processed the cooked porridge made from them. The processed groats known are a gray-white color with a starchy texture and sweet flavor. They the soft, thick porridge with a robust flavor called oatmeal.
Nutrition Grains are an excellent sou rce of vitamins, minerals, proteins and fiber. T!r amount of milling or refining and the method of preparation affects nutritional values, however. unrefined and less-refined grains are e:
POTA70E5, GRAINS AND PAm
~
647
NurRlTlONAL VALUES or SELECTED GRAINS Kca!
PfO{ein (gl
Carbohydrates
2.6 3.5 1.6 38
32
139
94 6& 104 45 126 converted
90
IIIhite, long-grain
146 432
germ. (toasted)
36 2.9 I.5 3.1 33.2
(gl
21.1
14.7 22.6 13 26 2J.J 31.6
56.4
Fiber (gl
TOla! Fat
Nb.cin
Phosphorous
POlassium
(8l
(gl
(mgl
(mg)
03 0.4 0.1 0.6 0.4 1.9 mq 0.1 !4.8
0.5 0.3 0.2 0.7
1.6 0.9 0.8
42.5 365 15
1.2
80
72.5 62 27 95
0.2 1.5 mq 1.5 6.4
89
66
81 mq 47 1280
42 mq 40 1076
I
0.7 0.3 12
Nt>Izer Enc)"dcpedla oj Food 1111111JS 1992
quantity. but data is uml\'aiJabie
Purc/lasilZg and Storing Grains buying grains, look for fresh , plump ones with a bright, even color. grains should not be shriveled or crumbly; there should be no sour or are sold by weight. They come in bags or boxes ranging from 1 \0 llI]lOOllds . Ten-, 25- and 50-pound units are usually available.
should be stored in air-light containers placed in a dark, cool, dry
"",. AlI-"I:"' containers prevent dust and insects from entering. Air-tight condarkness also reduce nutrient loss caused by oxidation or light. inhibits insect infestation; dryness prevents mold. Varnum-sealed packages will last for extended periods. Whole grains, contain the Oily germ, should be refrigerated to prevent rancidity.
~/yi:~g Various Cooking Methods cooking methods are used to prepare grains: simmering, risouo Unlike simmered gra ins, those cooked by either the risotto or pilaf are first coated with hot fat. The primary distindion between Ihe pilaf risotto methods is the manner in which the liquid is then added to the When grains are used in puddings, breads, stuffings and baked . they are almost always first fu lly cooked by one of these methods.
.... h",;o
i should be cooked until tender, although some recipes do require .. or more al dente product. Doneness can usually be determined by time and the amount of liquid remaining in the pan. Some grains, as \\~Id rice, are fully cooked when they puff open. 10 general, grains will be fully cooked when almost all the cooking liquid .00bed. This is indicated by the appearance of tunnel-like holes between
648 """
CHA?l'ER 23
the grains. Grains can be cooked until almost all the liquid is absorbed, ria removed from the heat and left 10 stand, covered, for 5-10 minutes. This allows the cooked grains to absorb the remaining moisture without burning.
Simmering The most commonly used method for preparing grains is simmering. To 0091 simply stir the grains into a measured amount of boiling salted water in I saucepan on the stove top. When the liquid returns to a boil, [ower the bet cover, and simmer until the liquid is absorbed and the grains are tender.11r grains are not stirred during cooking. The grains can be flavored by using stock as the cooking liquid. Herh5 ml spices can also be added.
}, Bring the cooking liquid to a boil. 2. Stir in the grains. Add herbs or spices as desired or as directed in the redtt
Return the mixture (a a boil, cover and reduce 10 a simmer. 4. Simmer the grains until tender and most of the liquid is absorbed. 5. Remove the grains from the heat. 6: Drain if appropriate or keep covered and allow the excess moisture to eI"ap" orate, approximately 5 minutes. Fluff the grains with a fork before service. j.
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 23.5
BASIC SIMMERED RICE Yield: 1 1/2 pt. (750 mt) Water Salt White rice
1 pt. 1/2 tsp. 1 c.
500 ml 2ml 250 mJ
1. Bring the water and salt to a boil in a heavy saucepan. Slowly add the rl"t
2. Cover the pan and reduce the heat so that the liquid simmers genu)'. Cld until the rice is tender and the water is absorbed, approximately 1;") minutes. 3. Remove from the heat and transfer to a hotel pan. Do not cover. Allowaar excess moisture to evaporate for approximately 5 minutes. 4. Fluff the rice and seIVe, or refrigerate for use in another recipe. Approximate vatues per 4..()z. (1 t9-g) serving: Calories 150, Total fat 0 g. Satur;lte.:! fat 0g, ~ te rol 0 mg, SOdium 0 mg, Total carbohydrates 34 g, Prote in 3 g, Iron 8%. Clalm$-fat ~. sodium; no sugar
Risotto Method RisotlO is a classic Northern Italian rice dish in which the grains remain firm lJI: merge with the cooking liquid to become a creamy, almost puddinglikedilh. Tme risotto is made with a short-grain starchy rice such as Arborio, but tit risotto method can also be used to cook other grains such as barley and 00Il. The grains are not rinsed before cooking, as this removes the staTIM needed to achieve the desired consistency. The grains are coated, but !XI cooked, in a hot fat such as butter or oil. A hot liquid is then gradually adlkd
POTA1DES, GRAiNS AND pASJjt
~
649
.. grnins so that the mixture is kept at a constant simmer. The cooking liq,)mId be a rich, flavorful SlOck. Unlike simmering and the pilaf method,
rL-.ono method requires frequent, sometimes constant, stirring. ben finished, the grains should be creamy and tender, but still al dente in rentl!!". Grated cheese, heavy cream, cooked meat, pouluy, fish, shellfish, md vegetables am be added to create a flavorful side dish or a com""I
1mDt.'RE FOR
PREPARING GRAI~S BY THE R1SOTIO METHOD
liking the cooking liquid to a simmer. l H~JI the fat in a heavy 5<1UCepan over moderate heat. Add any onions,
prlic or other flavoring ingredients and saute for 1-2 minutes without ({owning.
J .\dd the grains to the saucepan. Stir well to make sure the grains are well with fat. Do not allow the grains to brown. .\dd any wine and cook until it is fully absorbed. 1l!egin 10 add the Simmering stock 4 ounces (120 milliliters) at a time, -mnng frequently. \'('ait until each ponion of cooking liquid is almost fully 00bed before adding the next. , Tes! for doneness after the grains have cooked for approximately 18-20 idIllutCS. • iIlml,we the saucepan from the heat and slir in any butter, grated cheese, ~or()(her flavoring ingredients as directed. Serve immediately. ('O;lll'(\
I
1. Sauteing the rice and onions in
butter. ========== ~ ============ RECIPE 23.6
RIS01TO M IlANESE "kid: 24 4-oz. (l20-g) Servings Ulicken stock
'fOOIe butter
minced Idborio rice Dr\' white wine l.IIfron threads, cnlshed rmnesan, grated ~ions,
2 112 ql. 4 oz. 5 oz. lib. 8 oz. 8 oz . 1/2 tsp. 4 oz.
2.5 It 120 g 150 g 700 g
250 ml 2ml 120 g
2. Adding tbe stock gradually while
stirring frequently.
L !!ring the chicken stock to a simmer.
llkat3 ounces (90 grams) of the butter in a large, heavy saucepan. Add tile f'fIt:ln and saute without browning until translucent. 1.!J:I the rice co the onion and butter. Stir well to coat the grains with butt!" but do not allow the rice to brown. Add the wine and stir until it is ,::mpletely absorbed. t I4i the saffron. Add tile simmering stock, 4 ounces (120 milliliters) at a tJDe. stirring frequently. Wait until the stock is absorbed before adding the XX14-ouncc 020-millilicer) portion. l.\fterapproxim.1tely 18-20 minutes, lIn the stock should be incorporated and Ie rice should be tender. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining I .A.lnce (30 gr:lIns) of butter and the grated cheese. Serve immediately. j. COlllilllWd
Stirring in the butter and grated cheese.
650
.....
CHAmII 23
VAJUATIONS: RiSOl(O wilh Radicchio (al Radicchio)--Omit the safJroo Parmesan. Just before the risouo is fully cooked, stir in 4 ounces (120 liters) heavy cream and 3 ounces (90 grams) finely chopped radicchio Iel Risotto with Four Cheeses (al Qualtf-o Formaggl)--Omit the saffron. l' the risotto is fully cooked, remove from me heal and stir in 2 ~ grams) each of grated Pamlcsan, gorgonzola, fantina and mozzarella. with toasted pine nuts and chopped parsley. Risotto with Smoked Salmon (al Sa/mone Affllmicalo)--Omit the buuet
fron and Parmesan. Saute the onion in 3 ounces (90 milliliters) of com Il' flower oil instead of butler. When the risouo is fully cooked, remo\'c fur. heat and stir in 8 ounces (240 milliliters) half-and-half, 3 ounces (90 milW fresh lemon juice and 8-10 ounces (240-300 grams) good-quality 5100 salmon. Garnish with chopped fresh parsley and dill. Serve with lemon I\' ApproJ(im:lIe \'alues per 4-Qz. (l20-g) 5efYing, Calories 110, Tow fal 6 g. SalUJ'3lro f:ll 3-5,,01 lcslerol 15 mg, Sodium 470 mg, TOIai carboh yd ralcs 9 g, Proleln 5 g
Pi/aiMelbod With the pilaf method, the raw grains are lightly sauteed in oil or butter. ally with onions or seasonings for additional flavor. Hot liquid, often a.\llJ is then added. The pan is covered, and the mLxture left to simmer unliltne uid is absorbed. PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING GRAmS BY THE P,W METHOD 1. Bring the cooking liquid (either water or stock) to a boil. 2. Heat the fat in a heavy saucepan over moderate heat. Add any onions. garlic or other flavorings and saute for 1-2 minutes without bro\\Tling. 3. Add the grains to the saucepan. Stir well to make sure the grains are Ill' coated with fat. Do not allow the gmins to brown. 4. All at once, add the hal cooking liquid to the saut[>ed grains. 5. Return the liquid to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cover. 6. Allow the mixture to simmer, either in the oven or on the stove top. urU the liquid is absorbed.
====== .....,.... ====== RECIPE 23.7
BULGUR PIlAF Yield: 8 4-oz. (120-g) Servings 1. Sauteing the bulgur in buner.
2. Adding the hot stock to the bulgur.
Whole butter Onions, fine dice Bulgur B.1y leaf Chicken stock, hot Sa lt and pepper
2 oz.
60g
4 oz.
120 g
iO oz. I 1 qt. 1T
300g I I Ii 1T
1. Melt the butter in a large, heavy 5.1Ucepan over moderate heal. A
POTATOES, GRAINS AND PASl'A
~,
651
and continue cooking until all the liquid is absorbed and the gr.1ins tender, approximately 18-20 minutes. ('WI \\"ith a fork and adjust the seasonings before service. .()It!'
Barley pilaf-Substitute 2 cups of pearJed barley for the bulgur. IlUlg time may increase by 10-15 minutes.
"'\!lOS:
'We5 p;.... 4<02. (I20-g) sef\·jng: Calories 110, Total fat 7 g, Saturated fat 4 g, Cho lcs· . 1\!IIt SOdium 4~O mg, Total carbohydrates 9 g, Protein 4 g
3. Fluffing the fi nished bulgur.
i.~
mlcle from an unleavened dough of wheat flour mixed with a liquid.
!Xjuid is usually egg ancVor water. TIle flour can be from almost any grain :
buckwheat, rice or a combination of gra ins, The dough can be colored Ibl"Oroo wilh pureed vegetables, herbs or other ingredients, and it can be (f extruded into a wide variety of shapes and sizes. J.il C'an be cooked fresh while the dough is still moist and pliable, or the ,C3n be allowed to dry completely before cooking, Pasta can be filled or :td in an endless variety of ways. It can stand alone or be used in salads, soups or casseroles. J.'>ll is widely used in the cu isines of Asia, Nonh America and Europe. In I pasta dishes are usually served as a separate course, referred to as the W Il': in other European countries, Asia and the United States, pasta dishes ~ served as an appetizer, entree or side dish. l!,
Extrnsion-lbe proass offOrcillg pasta dough through peiforaled plates 10 ami/! lYlri()us siJaper: pa.sIa rhugh /hal is nol extrudetl mllSi be rolled
and cui.
IJ!1Iti(ying Pastas ~er-known pastas are based on Ihe Italian tradition of kneading wheat . with water and eggs to form a smOOlh, resilient dough. This dough is Macaroni----nll)' driaI pasta m(l(/e u'ilb U'bea/ It'!)· thin and CUt into various shapes before being boiled in waler or flall r alld u'(Iter; anly itl Ameriw rhes the term j for longer storage. refer 10 tlbou...shaped lUbes.
~
==========
TilE iJlADlRONI Mml ~ pqx!lar m)th
holds that noodles were
rJIl'!llft! in China and discovered there by '&'!ian explorer Marro Polo during the cmwl}.
lie inuoduced the food to Italy
bI.m !here the rest of Europe. Although II ~nJe doubt ~lal the Chinese were makD»Ib b). ~1e 1st cemu!), ..tD., it is noll' !pl~. clear thai they were nOI alone. Mntle Eastern and Italian cooks were ,.mg mx aroni 10llg before Marco Polo's Aclear reference 10 boiled noodles F5 in w.}erusillem Talmud of the 5th .\.l There, rabbis debate whether flOOMiJt pish dietary laws (they do, but illring Paw:wer). Thnth-century Arabic BIg! Mer 10 dried noodles purchased from
_It<.
•
~'endors. Uterary references establish thai dishes called lasagna, macaroni and ra\ioli \I'ere all well kr"K1.Ill (and costly) in Italy by the mld13th century. Pasta's currenl popularity dates from the IBthcemury, when mass pn:xJuction by machine began In Naples, Italy. English gen~emen on their Grand Tours of the Continem tJe>,'eloped a fondness for pasta; the word nI(/WrQn i became a synonym for a dandy or a vain young man, Macaroni ani\'ed in America \lith English colonists, \\no preferred il with cream sauce and cheese or in a sweet custard. Domestic factories soon opened, and b)"lhe Ci\11 War (1861- 1865), macaroni was available to the ,,",rking class. Pasta became a st:lpJe of the American middle-
class tIlet foll0\\1ng the wa\'e of Italian immigrants in the late 19th century. During the 1980s pasta became ubiqUitoUS. Restaurants began serving it in \\'a)'s pte\iously unimagined. Comergrocery Stores and local supennarkets began offering at least a dozen different shapes, often fresh and sometimes flal'Ored. Dedicated cooks began to make pasta from scratch, ~lOU gh they sometimes tossed il with bottled sauce. Many also became interesled in Asian noodles, Chinese,japanese, Korean and Thai restaurants expanded their menu offerings to include traditional noodle tIlshes eagerly ordered by curious oonsumers. Pasta's pc,:lularil)' continues to grow as chefs diSCOl'e r the \'ersatility ofthls inexpensive, nutritious food,
652
~
CHAPTER 23
Commercially prepared dried pasta products are usually made with sem:k flour. Semolina flour, ground from hard durum wheat and available from ~ cialty purveyors, has a rich cream color and produces a very smooth, dura'r* dough. Semolina dough requires a great deal of kneading, howe\'er, and ~ flour is an acceptable subslitule when preparing fresh pasta by hand. Asian pasla , generally known as noodles, is made from wheat, rice, beanl)' buckwheat fl our. It is available fresh or dried from commercial pUIW)'QrS ao:i at specialty markets. /la/;al1-St)'le Pas/a Although all Italian-style pasta is made from the same type of dough, the m commercial pastas are those made with pure semolina flour, which gil'O ttr dough a rich, yellow color. Gray or streaked dough probably contains ~ flours. Dried pasta should be very hard and break with a clean snap. The sa: fa ce should be lightly pitted or dull. (A smooth or glossy surface will nOl !di or absorb sauces as well.) Dried pasta, both domestic and imported, is available in a wide range j flavors and shapes. In addition to the traditional white (plain). grt'I't (spinach) and red (tomato) pastas, manufacturers are now offering 11:1\(1 combinations such as lemon-peppercorn, whole wheat-basil, jal3peo-tD.l bean and carrot-ginger. Small pieces of herbs or other flavorings are visible in these products. There are hundreds of recognized shapes of pasta, but only two or tht« dozen are generally available in the United States. When experimenting' unusual flavors and shapes, be sure 10 consider the taste and appeararn it the final dish after the sauce and any garnishes are added. Italian-style pasta can be divided in10 three groups based on the shape the final product: ribbons, tubes and shapes. There is no consistent En¢i't nomenclature for these paStas; the lIalian names are recognized and apPi1: virtually worldwide. (A specific shape or size may be given different ~ different regions of italy, however. These distinctions are beyond the scope!1 this text.)
R;bbol1S Pasta dough can be rolled very thin and cut into strips or riblxlOS of IlItous widths. All ribbon shapes work well with tomato, fish and shellfish salim Thicker ribbons, such as spaghetti and fettuccine, are preferred with cream I)' cheese sauces. Sheets of fresh pasta dough can be filled and shaped to crear ravioli , cappelletti and tortellini. Filled pasta is usually served with a ~ cream- or tomato-based sauce that complements the fitling's flavors.
Fellllccille
spagbelti
lasagna
Cilpellilli
PfYEiroFS, GFWNS AND PASli!
;llallicotti
~
653
Ziti
Riga/olli
ICjlOOrical forms or tubes are made by extrusion. The hollow tubes can be or straight, fluted or smooth. Tubes are preferred for meat and veg110."", and are often llsed in baked casseroles. I ::~~l~~~~,~,~p:rocess can also be used to shape pasta dough into forms. The ~
produced provide nooks and crevices Ihat hold sauces well . pastas, such as conchiglie, farfalle and fusilli, are preferred wilh meat joo""l ollll-b,,,,,d sauces such as pesta. larger shaped pastas can be cooked , .. "w,,~ ,,,"'I,.. meat or cheese fillings and baked or served as a casserole. Fllsil/i
Collchiglie
•
.
,
Rotefl~
Far/aile Ono
~noodles are nOt cut into the same wealth of shapes and sizes as Italian-
, nor are Ihey flavored or colored with vegetpurees, herbs or other ingredients. \iJtuaU}' all Asian noodles are ribbons-some 5O!lle Ihick-folded into bundles and packDifferences arise because of the flours used
flOllr Slick Whea/ Noodles (witbolll egg)
Asian noodles benefit by soaking in hot SC\'eral minutes before fun her preparation. I softens the noddle strands; the bundles "'"'",''' the noodles cook more evenly. Fresh Wheal alld Egg Noodles
110, ooodl,es" also known as egg noodles, are
I
and widely available of the ~~~~I~:; They are thin, flat noodles with texture; they are available fresh or egg noodles can be deep-fried after 10 create crisp golden noodles (chow used primarily as a garnish.
Rice Vermicelli
Cellophane Noodles
japanese Wheal Somen
654 """
CIWlEII 23
= = """"'"' = = D UMPW..CS
Adumpling is a small mound of dough cooked by steaming or simmering in a Ila\'OI'fulliquid. Dumpling! are found in many cuisines: Italian gnocchi,je'wish matzo balls, Gennan spaetzle. Chinese wontons, Belorusian pahmayne and Polish pierogi. Dumplings can be S\\"ef!1 or 53\'Ory, plain or filled. Plain or drop dumplings are made with a breadHke dough, often leavened with yeast or chemical leavening agents. They should be light and tender, bUI fim} enough \0 hold their shape when cooked. Drop dumplings may be served with stews or
broths, or coated wi~l butler or sauce as an appeli7.er or side dish. Recipes for gnocchi and spaetzle are included al the end of this chapter. II recipe for matzo balls Is included in Chapter 11, Soups. Filled dumplings are made by wrapping noodle dough around seasoned meat, l'egetabtes, cheese or fruit. These parcels are then steamed, fried or baked and sel\'ed as a snack food, appetizer or sIde dish. Arecipe for deep-fried wontons Is included in Chapter 28, Hors d'Oeuvre and Can¢.
Japanese wheat noodles, know as somen (if thick) and udon (if thinl.lIII' be round, square or fl at. TIley are eaten in broth or with a dipping sauce
Rice Noodles Rice noodles are thin dried noodles made wilh rice flour. They shooId soaked in hot water before cooking and rinsed in cool running boiling 10 remove excess starch and prevent Slicking. Rice noodles served in soups or sauleed. Rice vermicelli, which has very fine strands, can be fried in hOI oil presoaking. In only a few seconds, Ihe strands williurn white, puff up and come crunchy. fo,'lounds of crunchy rice noodles can be used as a base sauteed dishes or for presenting hors d'oeuvres.
Bean Starch Noodles Bean starch noodles are also known as spring min noodles, bean thred. bean noodles or cellophane noodles. They are thin, transparent noodles rmd>: from mung beans. Dried bean noodles can be fried in the same manntrasrU vermicelli. Otherwise, they must be soaked in hot water before using in SOOjl stir-fries or braised dishes.
Buckwheat Noodles Buckwheat flour is used in the noodles of Northern Japan and the TcbJ region, known as saba noodles. Soba noodles are available fresh or drie'd 2Dl do not need soaking before cooking. They are traditionally served in blah (I with a dipping sauce, but may be substituted for Italian-style paSfa if deIitd
Nutrition Pastas are very low in fal and are an excellent source of vitamins, rniooiL proteins and carbohydrates. Also, the processed products are sometimes et riched with additional nutrients.
Purchasing and Storing Pasta Products Pasta products are purchased by weight, either fresh or dried. Tubes and shaJ:a are not generaliy available fresh. Dried products, by far the most common,. available in boxes or bags, usually in 1-, 10· and 20-pound units. Theycanl:r stored in a cool, dry place for several months. Fresh pasta can be storedinanutight wrapping in the refrigerator for a few days or in the freezer for a fewl\ms.
Preparing Fresh Pasta Making Fresh Pasta Fresh pasta is easy to make, requiring almost no special equipment and. a few staples. The basic form is the sroglia, a thin, fl at sheet of dough tbJ. cut into ribbons, circles or squares. Although pasta dough can be kneaded by hand, stretched and roIJed , .. a rolling pin and cut with a chef's knife, pasta machines make these tasks f2Io ier. Pasta machines are either electric or manual. Some electric models mil. knead the dough, then extrude it through a cutting disk. An extrusion machir is mosr practical in a food service operation regularly serving large qU3lD of pasta. The pasta machine more often encOLLntered is operated ffi3n~ with a hand crank. It has two rollers that knead, press and push the 00.; into a thin, uniform sheet. Adjacent cutting rollers slice the thin dough intO ious widths for fettuccine, spaghetti , capellini and the like.
I"
POTAlDFS, GRAINS AND PASliI
IaE 23.5
......
655
h> NUTRITIONAL VALUES 0' SELECfED PASTA
K"I
. \I,'heat, dried
Protein
Carbohyclmtes
Fiber
Total Fat
Niacin
(g)
(g)
(g)
(g)
Phosphorous (mg)
Potassium
(g)
mq
0.1
0.6
29
40
0.2 1.1 0
1.2 1.2
38
22
65
42
,
113
;,8
24.4
186 147
9.2 ; .7
3;.9
0.3
28,4
mq
(mg)
foonrlt'T ,"e/Z(>I' Ellc)'cJcpedia of Food ~a/rles 1992 "Dtl!;urable quan1it)·. but data is una\lIi1able
I========== ~ ============ RECI PE 23.S
BASIC PAS'£A DOUGH ltld.' lb. (J.8 kg)
1!i>
15 I oz.
OOI'c oil
Ilbsp. 2 lb. 8 oz.
\Ill
BRoad flour'
15 30 ml 15 m1 1.1 kg
t Pbct' me eggs, oil and salt in a large mixer bowl. Use the paddle att:lchcombine. l lJ.kl one third of the flour and Slir until the mixture begins 10 form a soft l:lUgiL Remove the paddle attachment and allach the dough hook. lrjudu3Uy add morc flour until the dough is dry and cannot absorb any De flour. t Remorc the dough from the mixer, wrap it well with plastic wrap and set • J.\ide 3t room temperature for 20-30 minutes. t ,iJler the dough has rested, roll it into flat sheets by hand or with a past:! Rllchine. Work with only a small portion at :t time, keeping the remainder ~'dl co\'ered 10 prevent it from drying out. , I'hiJc lhe sheels of dough are pliable, ClItthem into the desired width with 1 chefs knife or pasta machine. Sheets can :Ilso be used for making ravi'. as illustrated next. ~IIO
Garlic-Herb--Roast 1 head of garlic. Peel and puree the d oves Dlldd 10 the eggs. Add up to 2 ounces (60 gmTlls) of finely chopped asmttl fresh herbs just before mixing is complete. ~ch-Add 8 ounces (250 grams) of cooked, pureed and well-drained !pIIlach 10 the eggs. Increase the amount of flom slightly if necessary. Tooulo-Add 4 ounces (I20 grams) of tomato paste to the eggs; omit the Ii:, Increase the amount of flour slightly if necessary.
J.
Adding flour (0 the mixing bowl and using the paddle until the mixture forms a soft dough.
ramoliS:
1'2!ues per t-oz. (3().g) serving: Calories 80. Toeal fat 2 So Saturated fat Sodillm m mg. Toul carbohydrates 13 So Protein 3 g
Ilour cm be 1\1 _-00:
~ub:stltuK'd
,,"'uh hy lund.
.s g. Choles.
in this recipt', although it m.1kt-S a stfOJlgcr dough thaI is more dif·
2. The finished dough.
656 ,.....
CIIAPl'I!JI 23
1. Work with a small portion of the dough. Leave the rest covered with ~ wrap 10 prevent it from drying QUI. 2. FlaHcn the dough with the heel of your hand.
the.
3. Set the pasta machine rollers to theiT widest selling. losell the dough:md rum the handle with one hand while supporting the dough with hand. Pass the entire piece of dough through the rollers. 4. Dust the dough with flour, fold it in thirds and pass it through the pa!t3 machine again.
5. Repeal the folding and rolling procedure until the dough is smOOlh.lb may require 4--6 passes. 6. Tighten the rollers one or twO marks, then pass the dough through the machine. Without folding it in thirds,
I . Passing the entire piece of dough
through the pasta machine.
2. Folding the dOllgh in thirds,
P:lSS
the dough through the machirr
repeatedly, tightening the rollers one or two marks each time. 7. \xrhen the dough is thin enough to see your hand through it, but nO! so thin that it begins to tear, it is relldy to use or cut into ribbons. This shed ~ the sjoglia. 8. To cut the sfoglia into ribbons, gently feed a manageable length of OOJ¢: through the desired CUlling bbdes. 9. Layout the pasta in a single layer on a sheet pan dusted with nourlOm Layers of pasta ribbons can be separated with parchment paper.
J. PaSSing the dough through the pasta machine to achieve the desired thickness.
4. Using the pasta machine 10 CUI the pasta into the desired width.
Filling Pasta Sheets of raw paSla dough can be filled or folded 10 create rarioli (sqwro tonellini (round ~ hats" with a brim of dough), lunettes (circles of dough fClbl into half-moons), agnolotti (squares of dough folded into rectangles). • letti (squares of dough folded and shaped into rings) and other shape$. 1k filled pieces of dough are then cooked in boiling water using the ~ for cooking pasta ribbons discussed later. TIle filling can include almcs. 111thing-cheese, herbs, vegetables, fish, shellfish, meat or poultry. It can be IIcooked or precooked. But any meat filling should be fully cooked befCie dr pasta is assembled, as the time it takes for the dough to cook mar f\OI be dfident to cook the filling. Cannelloni is a different type of filled pasta: a large square of cooked onions.
POTA1DES, GIWNSAND PASTA
t""2\.
657
nne eX the larger, commercially prepared pasta shapes such as large shells or rigate) or large tubes (manicotti) can be panially cooked in ... ,,"", then filled, sauced and baked as a C'dsserole. noodle dough is also made into filled items such as dumplings, wonrolls (made with egg noodle dough) and spring rolls (made with rice items are usually steamed, pan-fried or deep-fried. making filled pasta, consider the flavors and textures of the filling, and sauce. Each should complement the others. Combinations can from traditional unflavored semolina pasta with herb and ricotta filling sauce to an elegant escargot in garlic-and-herb pasta served with blanc to pork, ginger, soy and scallions in Asian egg noodle dough with a soy-based dipping sauce.
Prepare a basic pasta dough of the desired flavor. and chill the desired filling. out t\\'o thin sheets of dough between the rollers of a pasta machine. Gendy ]a)' the dough flat on the work surface. tWIg a piping bag or a small portion scoop, place small mounds of filling 00 one of the dough pieces. Space the fillings evenly, allowing approximately 2 inches C5 centimeters) between each mound. Brush the exposed areas of dough with water. place the second sheet of dough over the mounds and press firmly around each mound to remove air pockets and seal the dough. between the mounds with a chef's knife, pastry wheel or circular culler.
"
-
""
~
~
~ ~
v
.:.,
'-" V
the filling onto the dough.
'.
2. Pressing around the mounds of filling to seal the dough and remove any air pockets.
pastas are properly cooked when they are al dente, firm but tenCooking times vary depending on the shape and quantity of paSta, the of water used, the hardness of the water and even the altitude. Fresh cooks rapidly, sometimes in seconds. Noodles and dried pasta may re5eI'crnl minutes. AkIKlugh package or recipe directions offer some guidance, the only way ''''",,''I,lly test doneness is to bite into a piece. When the pasta is slightly than desired, remove it from the stove and drain. It will continue to l>rough residual heal. lnlike Italian paSta, Asian noodles are not served al dente. Rather, they are ilcrlx>;J,ed until very soft or stir-fried unlil very crisp.
"*
j.
Cutting around the mounds with a circular cutter.
658 .....,
CHAPmR 23
Boiling All Italian-style pasta and most Asian noodles are cooked by just one m:rlx4 ooiling. The secret to boiling pasta successfully is to use ample \"I
PROCEDURE FOR COOKING DRIED PASTA IN ADVANCE
Fresh pasta is so delicate and cooks so rapidly (sometimes in as little as 15 onds) that it should be cooked to order. Dried pasta, however, can be in advance for quantity service. Follow the preceding directions for cooking pasla, bUI StOp the cooking process when the pasta is aOOLLt two-thirds done. 2. Drain the pasta, rinse it lightly and toss it in a small amount of oil. 3. Divide the pasta into :tppropri:lte-sizcd portions. Individual portions C2!I wrapped in plastiC or laid on a sheet pan and covered. Refrigerate lIIlIi needed. 4. When needed, place a portion in a china cap and immerse in boiling 1; to reheat. Drain, add sauce and serve immediately. J.
Accompall;mellts to Pasta Pasta is widely accepted by consumers and easily incorporated in a \';lritty cuisines---from Italian and Chinese to Thai and spa. It is used in bro!hs: JI bed for stews, fish , shellfish, poultry or meat; or tOssed with sauce. t creative chefs are constantly developing nontraditional but delicious \\"3}1 serving pasta.
POTA1DES, GRAiNS AND PASTA
Small stupes can be cooked in the brOlh with which they are served, or ,*,dsepa,,,ely, then added to the hOI liquid at service lime. Soups such as in brodo and chicken noodle are examples of these techniques.
~ ====== PASTA SAUCIiS
braised dishes used as a sauce.
..... ",,"m,. ingredients and meal
are bl"O\\.TIErl, then a liquid and often added. The liquid can be of stock, wine, water, milk or
-I'""". '"
sauces can be white or red. I .... ~.'sa", mos' of.", mole with or stock and rarely use cream. 111(,,), tl3'.ured with herbs. Red seafood 1Om3lO based. Thldilionally, these
"" ". 1",,;she(1 ",d, cheese. salKes often use tomatoes as stock as the liquid. Mirepoix, IDlRd peppe" are commonlyused ~table sauces include the Itaas prima\"era.
fl,"
Cream sauces are based on milk or cream and are sometimes thickened with roux. Cheese is often included for flavor and richness. Garlic-oil sauces (It. (Jg/0-{)lio) con· sist mainly of garlic and oil; often herbs are added. Garlic<{lil sauces can be hot or cold, cooked or uncooked. PesIO is a "''ell-known example of an uncooked, cold garlic<{lil sauce. Uncooked sauces include a vaneI)' of dressings such as fresh tomatoes, basil and oliw oil; or olive oil, lemon juice, patsle)\ basil and hot red pepper flakes. Other flavoring ingredients include capers, anchO\-ies, garlic and olil'es as \\'ell as fresh herbs, fresh l-egetables, flal'Ored oils and cubed cheeses.
1Ias1d Sauces There are hundreds of Italian pasta &1UCeS as well as sauces for ilalian-sryle 001 most can be divided into six categories: ragus, seafood sauces, vegsauces, cream sauces, garlic-oil sauces and uncooked sauces. Recipes 1"" lec,k ; m of pasta sauces are included in Chapter 10, Stocks and Sauces. Akbough there are no firm rules governing the combinations of sauces and , Table 23.6 offers some of the more common combinations.
23.6 .-,
CoMBINING SAUCES, PASTA AND GARNISHES
Pasta Shape
Garnish
Ribbons, tubes, shapes, fill~ Ribbons (felluccine and capellini) Ribbons, tubes, filled Thick ribbons (spaghelli and
Grated cheese Fish or shellfish Meatballs, sausage, grated cheese Ham, peas, sausage, mushrooms,
fettuccine), filled
smoked salmon, nulS, grated
cheese Ribboru>, shapes, filled
Ribbons, shapes
Grated cheese (if uncooked or cold), herbs Cubed or grated cheese, fresh
vegetables, herbs
r"'\!I..
659
660 '"""
C/W'J7iR 23
ONCLUSION .P.r-. Most meats would seem incomplete without a starch. The mOSt porm"" ..... are potatoes, grains (especially rice) and pasta. All 3rc low in,,~:~a~~!=1 source of energy. Most can be prepared with several dry- and m ing methods. Starches can be sauced, seasoned or flavored in limitless \\1)\
FOR 1. Explain the differences between mealy and waxy potatoes. Gi\"e (WO
examples of each. 2. Describe the twO methods of sauteing or pan-frying potatoes. 3. Explain why duchesse potatoes are regarded as the "mother" of many classic potato dishes. Name and describe two such dishes. 4. AI! grains are composed of three parts. Name and describe each of these parts,
5. Describe and compare the three general cooking methods used \0 ~ grains. 6. Name the three categories of Italian-style pasta shapes, and give an example of each. 7. Why is it necessary to use ample water when cooking pasta? Should pd be cooked in salted water? Should oil be added to the cooking water? Explain your answers. 8. Discuss the differences between cooking fresh pasta and cooking dried, faclOry-produ ced pasta.
RECIPE 23,9
QUlNOA, llED RICE AND LENTIL SAlAD WITH TRUFFLE VINAIGRETTE NOT£: 7bis di.sh appears;lI lbe CbapIer ~/illgph%grnpb. TIlE RITZ CARI10N, QUCAGO, It ixeclltiL'e CbeJGeorge 8,m/ban's
Yield: 4 Servings Quinoa (recipe follows) Red Rice (recipe follows) Beluga Lentils (recipe follows) Carrots, brunoise, cooked Leeks, brunoise, cooked Black truffles Truffle Vinaigrette (recipe follows) Kosher salt Pepper Herb-infused oil TnJffle Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
I c. I c.
I c.
250 ml 25(1 mJ 250 ml 60mJ 60mJ 4 slices
1/4 c 1/4 c. 4 slices loz.
30ml
IT IT
IT IT
as needed for garnish as needed for garnish
POTAro~ GIWNSANDPASTti
c""2\.
661
Iix ,be ()";,'O", Red Rice, Beluga Lentils, carrotS, leeks, Truffle Vinaigrette,
and pepper together. intO a ring on each serving plate. Garnish with a truffle slice. DrizHerb Oil and additional Truffle Vinaigrette around each plate. ""R """,, per serving: Calories 500. To tal fat II g, Saturated fat 2 g, Cholesterol 0 mg. ~, Total carboh)"drau:s 79 g. PrOlein 21 g, Vitamin A 25%, Iron 50%. Cbims-no low sodium; high fiber
QUINOA
Qulnoa-an andenl sIaple grain u:ith a bigb proIein o;mlml, bealBiRe shape alld delicale, al·
most IWlldfltlllOr.
vegetable stock ' '''hCl ~h
1/2 c. 1 Thsp. 1/2 c.
30ml
I e.
250 ml
IT IT
IT IT
120 ml 120 ml
small sauce pol, Saute the onions in the olive oil over medium heat. the quinoa and allow it to brown slightly. the stock and season with salt and pepper. Bring the stock 10 a full
r,om the stove and cover the pot. Allow the quinaa to steep until tnder, approximately 8 minutes.
i "'"""
t
0,;,.".;,;,;;;; .
2020 mg, Total carbohydrall'$
n
g, Protein 16 So Iron 45%, Claims--no
RED RICE
led rice
"""
lasher salt F
114 c.
60 ml
I Thsp.
1/2 c. 1 c.
15 ml 120 ml 250 ml
IT IT
IT IT
small sauce pot, saute the onions in the olive oil over medium heat. the red rice, water, salt and pepper. . and simmer until the rice is tender and the liquid has been absorbed, approximately 15 minutes. :
: : ' : ; ' :;:" ': ~ 1 /4.aJp (6I).ml) serving: Calories 60, Total fat 3.5 g, Sarurated fat 0 g, Qlo. mg, Tolal C2tb0h)'drates 8 g, Protein I g, CIa.ims-no s;Jtur:lted fat: no
BELUGA LENTILS lieIt 1 c. (2;0 ml)
ar. eoil Onion, peeled
ao.,
2 Thsp. 1 small
30ml I small
1
1 Co ntiulled
662 .....
C1/APl1!R 23
Carrot, peeled and cut in half lengthwise CelclY, cu t in half Garlic cloves
Shallo£s, minced Bay leaves
1 large
1 large
2 ribs 4 1/2 c. 2 2 sprigs
2 ribs 4 120m]
Pepper
IT IT
Beluga lentils, soaked for 1 hour
1/2 c.
2 2 sprigs IT IT 120 ml
Water or vegetable stock
1 pI.
500 mJ
Fresh thyme Kosher salt
do,,,.,
1. In a large sauce pOI, heat the olive oil. Stud the onion with Ihe sweat the carrotS, celery and onion in the oil. 2. Add the garlic and shallots. When the shallots are translucent. add them leaves, fresh thyme, salt, pepper, lentils and Stock. 3. Simmer until tender, approximmcly 40 minutes. Make sure the lenllis covered with liquid at all times. 4. After the lentils cool, remove the carrot, celc!)" onion, garlic dQ\ts.. leaves and thyme. ApproxilT\Jle values per l-cup (250-nd) serving: CaloriC!! 120. TOlat fat 0 g. SalUratro fat Og, !lIe terol 0 mg, Sodium 0 mg, Total carbohydratcs 20 g, Protein 9 g. Iron 20%, Clalms-fa11itt:lI;fiII
TRUFFLE VINAIGRETIE Ykld, I 1!2 pt. (750 mI)
Brandy Madeira POTt Truffles Balsamic vinegar Canola oil Truffle oil Kosher salt Pepper
Ie I c. Ie 7 oz. 1/ 4 c. 1/4 c. 2lbsp. IT IT
2iO mI 250ml 250 ml 210 g
60ml 60 ml 30mI IT IT
/, Simmer the brandy, madiera and poTt to remove the alcohol. the heat and add the truffles. Allow them to sleep Unlit the liquids 3tl'roi 2. place all the ingredients in a blender and emulsify. Approxima1e values pet l-oz. C5S-g) serving: Calories 119, Total fat II g, ':";;;':~;~.'~~.~= terol 0 mg, Sod ium 6 mg, T01aJ carbo hydrates 5 g, Protein ! g, CJaims-flo
============= ~ =========== RECIPE 23. 10
GRlUED POTno SAlAD GREENS RESTAURANT, SAN FR.l'iCISCO, CA
E:t:eculive ebe!Anllie Someroille
Method: BakinglGrlllq
Yield: 4 Servings New po{atoes Light olive oil Salt and pepper
as needed
I kg as needed
IT
IT
2 lb.
POTAWES, GRAiNS AND PMllI
sweet one hundreds or pear cherry tomatoes or salad greens (optional) and reHo\\' beH peppers, roasted, .seeded and cut into strips .; (recipe foHows) vinegar olives
,
4 oz. 4 oz.
120 g 120 g
I lb.
500 g
as needed
as needed
12
12
the potatoes with the olive oil in a b.1king dish; sprinkle with a few jXDches of salt and pepper. the potatoes and place in a -ioooF (200°C) oven. Cook until render,
approximately 3;.....40 minUies. Set aside to cool. CuI the cooled potatoes in half or quaners if they are large. TI)read OntO Ikewers for grilling. (Skewers are not necessary if the gri!l grating is close klgt'ther.) Gri1lthe potatoes cut side down until Ihey are golden and crisp lith defined grill marks. o.u the tomatoes in half or leave whole if small. Prepare, wash and spin-dry the salad greens. To assemble the salad, slide the grilled potatoes from the skewers and tOSS ,tit the peppers, cherry tomaJoes and vinaigrette. Adjust the seasoning, if rrcessar)" with a splash of champagne vinegar and salt and pepper. loosely arrange the greens on plates or a platter, spoon the potatoes and aber I'cgelables over the greens and garnish with the olives. l"llues per serving: Calories 350, Total fat 22 g, Saturated fat 3 g, Cholesterol 0 mg.
" ',"mg" Totat carbo hydrates 33 g, Protein 4 g, Vitamin C 170%, Calcium 1:)%. Iron tO%
BASIL VINAIGREm fxlU
oz. (120 g)
Ownpagne vineg:u Enra virgin olive oil Fresh oo.silleaves !oIi Garlic dove, chopped
I oz. 3 oz. 112 c. 112 tsp.
90ml 250 ml 3ml
I
1
30mi
Combine the ingrediencs in a blender or food processor until smooth . ..._,,,.,." \--g) serving: Calories 200, Total fat 21 g, SalUratoo fat 3 g, Choles290 TotaJ carbohrdratl'$ 1 g, Prote in 0 g
••,.. '"",,m
mg,
RECIPE 23. 11
CANDIED SWEET POTATOES ,(rId: 6 4-oz. (120-g) SelVings
Saw potatoes bll sugar t.~
thole butter Wa extract
Method: Baking 21b.
5 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz.
liSp.
I kg 150 g
60ml 60g 5 ml C01lfilllled
,""'\!\..
663
664 ,.-..a.
CHAPl'ER 23
1. Wash the sweet potatoes and cut as necessary to promote even ~ 2. Bake the sweet potatoes on a sheet pan at 350°F (I80°C) until cooted still firm, approximately 30 minutes. 3. Combine the brown sugar, water and butter and bring to a boil. Ad:I vanilla and remove from the heat. 4. Peel the potatoes and slice or cut as desired. Arrange the potatoes in ahit ing dish and pour the sugar mixture over them. 5. Sprinkle the potatoes with additional brown sugar if desired and bake 20 minutes, basting ocC'Jsionally with the sligar mixture.
faI , I- QI.
Approximate values per 4~z. OZQ.g) serving: Calories 320. Tow fal 8 g, Saluratcd leslerol 20 mg, Sodium lOS mg. Total carbohydrales 60 g, Prolein 3 g, Vibmin .~
~
ftt
min C (mj,
============ ~ ==========
.--
i --
RECIPE 23. 12
SPICY SWEET POTATO AND CHESTNlfr GRATIN THE BOUlDt;RS RESORT, CutErm, AZ Corporate ExecutiL'e Che/Charles Wit",
Yield: 6 Servings Vegetable spray Skim milk Maple syrup Garlic doves, chopped Ancho chiles Sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced thin Kosher salt Pepper Leeks, white part only, sliced thin Roasted chestnuts, chopped coarse Aged i\Ionterey Jack cheese, grated Chives, snipped
as needed 1 c. 1/2 c.
as needed 25(1 ml 60ml
3
3
2 2 large IT IT
2 2 large IT IT
3
3
1/2 c. 1/2 c. as needed
120 ml 120 ml as needed
1. Lightly spray an oven-proof casserole dish with vegetable spray. 2. In a small saucepan, heat the milk and maple syrup. Remove from ~ ~ add the garlic and chiles and let steep for 30 minutes. Puree in a bIe!a: 3. Lay one third of the potato slices in one layer in the casserole dish. OI~ lapping slightly. Season with salt and pepper. 4. Ladle one third of the milk mixture over the potatoes. 5. Sprinkle with one th ird of the leeks and one third of the chesmuts. 1h:: top with one third of the cheese. 6. Repeat two more times. 7. Cover with foi l and bake at 350°F (I80°C) for 40 minutes. Uncorer_ bake for another 20 minutes or until brown and bubbly. 8. Let sit for 20 minutes. Sprinkle with the snipped chives. Cut into sq~!I Circles, or simply spoon out of the casserole dish for service. Approximate values per &.oz. (\68.g) serving: Calories 170. Total fal 4 g, Saru rated fat 2 g. c:w. lerol 10 mg. Sodium 13S mg. TOlal carbohydra tes 29 g, Prole lo S g, Vha mln A IS'lt. \'i!aU { 30%. Claims-low cholesterol; low sodium
POTATOE5, GIWNS AND PASTA
========== ~ ============
RECIPE 23.13
POTAJ'O PANCAKES ltld: 122 1/2-02. (75-g) PanC'Jkes
all-purpose Eggs, beaten Onion, minced
Method: Pan-flYing
6 oz.
I kg 2 180 g
2 oz.
Gog
I Thsp.
15 m! 5 ml
21b.
Pw!0e5,
2
1m, Baking powder \utmeg
I (Sp. IT
'Ilk and pepper \tgetable oil
IT 120 m)
4 oz.
1 Prel Jnd coarsely grate the potatoes. 1 Transfer the grated potatoes to a bowl and add the beaten eggs, onion, ibJr and baking powder. Season with nutmeg, salt and pepper. Blend "Il j Ile:JI the oil. Add the pc»alO mixrure to the oil in uniform-sized pancakes.
Pan-fry the pancakes llntil tender, turning once when well browned on the nrSl side. Remove from the pan and drain well . • •_
•• I"alues per 4-<Jz.
1IboI 3)
o
14-g) serving: Calories 200, Toul fat 10 g. Satur.ued fat 1.5 g, Chomg, Sodium 210 mg, Total carbQhrdrales 22 g. Protein .3 g. Vitamin C 15%
1========== ~ ========== RECIPE 23.14
R(JsTI POTATOES THE FOUR SEASONS,
N~" YORl,
NY
Chef Christian Albill lidd: 6 Servings
Boiling potatoes, large 8acoo fat Wd KMer salt and pepper Jhole butler
Method : Pan-frying
4 2 oz. 2 oz.
4 Gog Gog
IT
IT
I oz.
30 g
L Partially cook the potatoes in salted water until almost done. 1 Drain and cool the potatoes, then peel and coarsely grate them. 1 Heat the bacon fat and lard in a heavy, shallow to-inch (2;-centimeter) 5kilIet with sloping sides until quite hot. Spread half the potatoes over the Mom of the pan; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover with the remaining potatoes and rook over medium-high heat until the bottom turns brown and crusty, approximately 10 minutes. t Tum the potatoes in one piece. This is easiest to do by placing a large plate over the pan and turning both together so that the potatoes fall onto !he plate. Slip the turned-over potatoes off the plate back into the pan, IXCllme
~
665
666 '"""
C/IAP/'ER 23
5. Before serving, smOOl.h the edges of the potatoes with a spatula. with salt and brush the edge of the pan with whole butter. II will run into the potatoes. VAlUATION": Cheddar Cheese Rosli Potatoes-fo.'1ake two Ihin cakes from Ih: coarsely grated potatoes. Top one with a layer of 7 ounces (210 grams) cream, 2 ounces (60 grams) cubed sharp cheddar cheese and 2 table5JOO'!' (30 milliliters) chopped chives. Top with the other cake. Dot with I tablespxt (15 milliliters) whole butter and bake in a 400°F (200 CC) oven for 151!1irU6
Coltagefries.
Approxirn:ue values per .serving: Caklridl 290, TOIaI fal 2~ g, s..tUJ'3I~ fal 10 g. Cho~.'oJ Sodium 430 mg, Tow carboh)'d rates 19 g, Protein 2 g, Vllaruln C ~
============ ~ ========== RECI PE 23. 15
COrTAGE FRIES, SHOESTRING POTAIOES, FRENCH FRIES, STEAK FRIES RlITH'S CHRIS STEAK 1I0USE, PUOE."LX, AZ Method: Deep-hying
Idaho potatoes, 70 count
SiJoeslringpoialoes.
Hot fat Sail and pepper Parsley, chopped
as needed as needed IT
as needed for garnish
1. Cui each polalo inlO Ihe desired shape. Coltage fries-circles 1/4 inch (60 millimeters) thick
Shoestring potatoes-long juliennes (allumettes) French fries-sticks 3/8 inch x 3/8 inch x 3 inches (1 centimeter xl Mtimeter x 7 centimeters) Steak fries-four large wedges 2. Deep-fry in 250°F (120°C) fat UI1tillightly browned, approximalely2-3DJi1. utes , Remove and drain. Season to taste with sa lt and pepper. 3 •. For sen'ice, deep-fry the partially cooked potatoes in 350°F (180"C) fal utti golden in color and done. 4. Garnish with parsley if desired.
French fries.
ApproxlllU!e values per ].()z. (3O.g) serving: CalorlCII 90. To tal fal 4.5 g. Satur.ilt~ flit 15 g. ~ ICIIleroi 0 mg, Sodium 60 mg, Tow carbohydrales II g, Prolcin I g
============= ~ =========== RECIPE 23. 16
POTATO-GINGER PUREE STANFORD COURT IIOTIJ., San Francisco, CA
Yield: 2 lb. (I kilogram)
Steakjries.
Potato, peeled, I-in. (2.5-cm) pieces Heavy cream Fresh ginger, grated Whole buner Salt and pepper
I lb. 8 oz. 4 oz. I Thsp. 8 oz.
650 g
IT
IT
120 mI IS rul 250 g
• POTAroES, GRAINS AND PA.57A
r. Boil the potatoes in salted water until lender. Drain and set aside. Z. \\hile the potatoes cook, bring the cream 10 a boil, add the ginger and let Sleep for 15 minutes. Puree and strain through a fine chinois. J Puree the poIatoes, add the butter and ginger cream. Season to taste with sal! and pepper. Adjust the consistency with additional hQ( cream as
oeeded. e I':!lues per 4-az. (l20-g) serving: Calories 311, Tow fal 29 g. Satur.lI~ fal 18 g. Clio1Imo/ 81 rug, Sodium 426 mg. TOlal carboh)'dral~ 12 g, Prolein 2 g, vitamin A 2816
====== ~ ====== RECiPE 23. 17
POLENTA Yield: 1 lb. 12 oz. (800 g)
Method: Simmering
Shallots, chopped Whole butter
2 LSp.
as needed 21b.
Milk, white siock or water
Cornmeal, yellow or while Salt and pepper
10 ml as needed
6 oz.
950 ml 180 g
IT
IT
L Saute the shallots in 1 tablespoon (I5 milliliters) of butter for 30 seconds.
Add the liquid and bring 10 a boil. 2. Slowl}' add Ihe cornmeal while stirring constantly to prevent lumps, then simmer for 30 minutes. J. Scrape the polenta into a buttered nonaluminum dish; spread to an even thickness with a spatula that has been dipped in waler. Refrigerate the p0lenta until well chilled. t To sen'e, unmold the polenta and cut into shapes. Saute or grill the p0lenta for service, or sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese and heal under a broiler or salamander. ~le \I;llues per 4-m. (l 2I}g) .serving: Calories 160. Total fat 3.5 g. Sarnraled fat 2 g, Cho le!J. I11III 10 mg. Sodium 400 mg, TOlal carbo hydrate!J 25 g. Protein 6 g, Vitamin A 10%, Calcium 15%
============ .~ ============= RECIPE 23.18
CREAMY POLENTA WITH WIW M USHROOMS Fl:T tER VI~'YA RDS, HOPI....\'D, CA
job" Ash, CulinarJ' Director rJeld: B Servings
YeUow onion, chopped coarse 'ltbite mushrooms, chopped coarse Garlic, chopped fine Dried porcini or cepes mushrooms, rinsed, soaked in water and chopped coarse Oli\"e oil Fresh basil, chopped fine Fresh oregano, chopped fine
12 oz.
4 oz. 2 Thsp.
340g 120 g
30 ml
2 oz.
60g
5 oz.
150 ml 20 ml 5 ml
4 tsp. 1 tsp.
COlltillued
r'\!\.
667
668
~
CHAPTER 23
Chicken or vegetable stock Coarse polenta cornmeal Salt and pepper Heavy cream Aged Asiago or Fontina , grated fine Fresh wild mushrooms Fresh basil sprigs
2 qt. 21t 2 c. 450 ml IT IT 1 pt. 450ml 4 oz. 120 g &-10 &-10 as needed for garnish
1. Saute the onion, white mushrooms, garlic and porcini or cepes in 400lm (I20 milliliters) olive oil until lightly colored. Add the basil, oregano-' stock; bring to a boil. 2. Slowly stir in the polenta. Simmer 10 minutes, slirring regularly. The lenta should be thick and creamy. Add more stock if necessary. AdjU9.IK seasonings and keep warm. j. Just before serving, add the cream and cheese and stir vigorously. 4. Saute the fresh wild mushrooms in the remaining olive oil umill Spoon the polenta onto warm plates and garnish with the wild and a sprig of fresh basiL
m,,;".
",flo
Approximlue values per S-oz. (IDg) serving, Calories 550, Tow fat 46 g, ' '''D'", f. lesterol 95 mg, Sodium 1090 mg, Total carbohydrates 21 g, Protein I3 g, Vitamin A 3;!t. C 15%, Calcium 20%, Iron 15%
============ ~ ==========
RECIPE 23. 19
GRITS AND CHEDDAR SOUFFLE Yield: 8 Servings
Grits Water Milk Unsalted butter Salt Sharp cheddar cheese, grated Tabasco sauce Eggs, separated Sugar
Method: SimmeringlBaking
1 112 c. 1 1/ 2 pI. 1 112 pI. 4 oz. IT 80z. 1/2 !Sp,
350 ml 700 ml 700 ml 120g IT 225g 2 ml
6
6
2 !Sp.
10 ml
1, Combine the grits, water, milk, butter and salt in a heavy saucepan, to a simmer and cook, stirring constantly, until thick, approximately minutes. 2. Remove from the heat and stir in 6 ounces (I80 grams) of the ch,'" ,. the Tabasco sauce. j. Whisk the egg yolks together, then stir them into the grits mixture, 4. Whip the egg whites to soft peaks, add the sugar and whip to stiff Fold the egg whites into the grits mixture. 5. Pour the souffle into a well-buttered 2-quart casserole or souffle Top with the remaining 2 ounces (60 grams) of cheese. Bake at (180°C) until set and browned, approximately 30 minutes. Serye ately.
g,
Approx;m:ue V3lues per serving: Calories 410, Total fat 25 Saturated • g;, ~~!,,;:" Sodium 640 mg, Total carbohydrates 32 g, Protein 16 g, Vitamin A 41)11" C
''''.
PO'TAJOES, GIWNS AND PAm
F========= ~ ============ RECIPE 23.20
CLASSIC RICE PIlAF . lib. CIA kg)
Method: Pilaf 1 oz.
oz. 3 oz. I
fine dice IIyleaf Ioog-grnin rice Olicken stock, boiling
I
I pt. I qt. IT
501!
JOg JOmI 90g I 450 ml I It IT
the butter and olive oil in a heavy sautoir or sauce pot. the onion and bay leaf and SaUle until tender, but not brown. Add the rice and stir to coat completely with the hot fat. Do not allow lhe liCe to brown. Pour in the boiling chicken stock and season with salt. ea. er the pm tightly and place it in a 350°F (175°C) oven. Bake for 18-20 minutes, until the liquid is absorbed and (he rice is fluffy and tender. the cooked rice to a hmel pan and fluff the rice with a fork. RelOO\"e the bay leaf and keep the rice hot for service. ,..,......" per 6-oz. 08().g) serving: Calorie!! 130, TotaJ fat 7 g, Saturated fat 3 g, CholesSodium 440 g, Tow carbohrdn.tes 12 g, Protein 4 g
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 23.2 1
BROWN RICE PIlAF WITH PINE NUTS 10 3-oz. (9O..g) Servings
r"":ken sto,"
hot
Melhod: Pilaf 1/2 LSp. I pt. 1 Thsp. 1 Thsp. 2 oz.
60g
6 oz. 6 oz.
ISO g ISO g
2 ml 500 ml 15 ml 15 ml
2 LSp.
JOmI
I e.
250 mI
I LSp. IT 2 oz.
IT
JOmI 60 mI
Sleep the saffron threads in the hot stock for 5 minutes. fleat the oils and saute the pine nuLS until lightly browned. Add the onion, red pepper and g.1rlic and saute withoul browning. the rice and stir to coat the rice with the oil. the saIl and stock to the rice. Season with pepper, bring to a boil, reo m the heat and cover. Cook on the stove top or in the oven until done, approximately 30 minutes. Contin ued
("\!l.
669
670 ""'-
CIIAPI1iR 23
6. Stir in the currants, cover and allow them to soften for 5 minutes. Approximate values per 3-oz. (9O.-g) serving: Calories 150, Total fat 7 g, Saturaled fas 1 g. QIe terol 0 mg, Sodium 170 mg, Total carbohydrates 18 g. Protein 4 g, Vitamin C 25%
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 23.22
SAFFRON RICE Yield:
6 Servings
Basmali rice Saffron threads Boiling water Ghee (or clarified butter)
1 pI. 1 tsp. I qt. 3 oz.
Cinnamon sticks, 2 in. (5 em) long
I
I
Cloves, whole
4
Onion, fine dice
4 5 oz.
Dark brown sugar Salt Cardamom seeds
I Thsp. 2 tsp. 1/4 tsp.
450 ml
5m1 III
90g 150 g 15 ml 10 ml 2 ml
1. Wash the rice and drdin thoroughly. 2. Steep the saffron in 2 ounces (60 milliliters) of the boiling water. 3. In a saucepan, heat Ihe ghee, add the cinnamon and cloves, Add til onions and slir-fry until they are soft and slightly brown. 4. Add the rice and stir until it is well coated with the ghee and the grains. a light golden color.
5. Stirring constantly, add the remaining boiling water, brown sugar, salt aM cardamom seeds. Bring \0 a boil and reduce to a simmer. 6: Gently stir in the saffron and its water, cover and simmer until the rice III absorbed all the liquid. 7. Fluff with a fork and serve at once. Approximate values per 4-oz. (lQ6.g) serving: Calories 370, Total fat 16 g. Saturated lesterol 35 mg. Sodium 780 mg, Total carbohydrates 51 g. Protein 4 g
~ 9 g. ~
============ ~ ==========
RECIPE 23.23
WIW RICE AND CRANBERRY STUFFING Yield: 5 pints (2.5 It) Dried morels Wild rice Onion, minced Butler or chicken fat Chicken slock, hal Dried cranberries Salt and pepper Fresh parsley, chopped fine
1 oz. 12 oz. 8 oz. 2 oz. approx. 1 qt. 6 oz. IT 4 Tbsp.
30 g 340 g 225 g
60g approx. I II
180 g IT
60mI
1. Soak the dried morels overnight in lightly salted water. Drain, reseJiling
liquid. Rinse well, drain again and chop coarsely. 2. Rinse the wild rice well in cold water.
POTA1VFS, GRAiNS AND PAm
the onion in the butler or chicken fat until tcnder. Add the mushand wild rice. the reserved liquid from the mushrooms through several layers of dleesecloth to remove all sand and gril. Add enough chicken stock so that die liquid totals 3 pints (I.5 liters). Add the stock mixture and cranberries I)the rice. Cover and simmer until the rice is dry and fluffy, approximately 4S minutes. Season 10 taste with salt and pepper and stir in the parsley. This rice may be served as a side dish or used for stuffing duck or game hens. D:mS
~:;::;~:~::;;i~~~' ;:::,:; ~Calo :'rl~es 190, To tal fal 6 g, SalUmle
•• " ., ~""m 300 mg,
28 g, Proleln 7 g
========== ~ =============
RECIPE 23.24
TABOUU (BULGUR WHE4T) SAlAD Ytdd: 15 3-oz. (90-g) Servings ~,
to oz. Boz. 2 oz. 6 oz. 2 oz. 8 oz.
(XUon, brunoise
Green onion, sliced fresh parsley, chopped fresh mint, chopped OJr.·e oil Itmon juice Tootato concassee SO and pepper Pille nuts, toasted
lib.
300g 250 g 60g 180 g 60g 250 ml 250 ml 500g
IT
IT
4 oz.
120g
Boz.
the bulgur in a bowl and cover with cold water. Soak the bulgur until Jmder, approximately 2 hours. the bulgur and squeeze out all the excess water. onions, green onions, parsley, mint, olive oil and lemon juice. Mix well. Add the tomatoes; mix to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with the toasled pine nuts. valUe!; per 4--oz. (I20-g) serving' Calorle!l 280, Total fal 21 g, SalUraled fat 3 g, ChoSodJum 2tKl mg, To tal carbohydralcs 17 g, Protein 5 g, Vitamin A 30%. Vltamln C cholCSlercl: good source of fiber
======== ~ =============
RECIPE 23.25
KAsHA VARNISHKES WITH WILD M USHROOMS Todd: 4 lb. (J.S kg) Onion, medium dice r.sha OOCken fat or clarified butter MJstuooms-shiilake, morels and/or white, sliced
Method: Pilaf
B oz. I pI.
250 g 450 ml
4 oz.
120 g
4 oz.
120 g Continued
C"""\tl..
67J
672 '"""
c/W'l'ER 23
Garlic, chopped Chicken stock SaIl and pepper Bow lie pasta (farfalle)
1 lbsp. I qt.
15 mI
IT
IT
100l.
300g
lit
1. Saute the onions and kasha in 2 ounces (60 grams) of the fal or bunet 2. Add the mushrooms and garlic and stir in the stock. Season with sat DI
3.
pepper. Bring 10 a boil, reduce to a simmer and cover. Cook until m appro ximately 10-12 minutes. Cook the bow tie pasta ; re fresh and drain.
4. Saute the pasta in the remaining fat or butter. 5. Combine the kasha and pasta, Adjust the seasonings and serve. Approximlte l'alues per 3-07.. (90-g) servi ng: Calories 160, Tolal fal 6 g. Salurated fat , g. ClIcb lerol 25 mg. Sodium 190 mg, Total carbohrdra1e$ 22 g, Protein 5 g
============ ~ ========== RECI PE 23.26
FErrUCCINE CON PESro ALIA TRAPANESE Che] Odette Fatia of the former REX Il RISTORANTE, Los A.-;GELES, CA
Yield: 4 8-oz (250-g) Servings
Fresh fettuccine Salt Fresh basil leaves Garlic cloves, chopped fine Bread crumbs Almonds, chopped Extra virgin olive oil Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and julienned
I lb.
300g
IT 1/2 oz.
IT
4 2 Thsp. 1 oz. approx. 3 oz. 8 oz.
15 g 4 5Om1
50g approx. 'XI !Ii 250 g
I. Boil the pasta in salted water until almost done.
2. Lightly saute the basil, garlic, bread cnunbs and almonds in the oil.
J.
Add Ihe tomatoes and saute to blend the flavors.
Drain the pasta, add it 10 the pan and SaUle for 1 minute over a low fhm: 5. Add more olive oil and salt as needed. 4.
is,
Approximate values per fk)z. (210-g) 5e1Ving' Calo ries 590. Total. fal 29 g. Saturated f.u Cit lesluol 20 mg, Sodium 640 mg. Total carboh,'drale5 68 g. ProU::in 15 g, Viwnln c ni \nil"
============ ~ ==========
RECIPE 23.27
GOAT-CHEESE RAVIOli IN H ERRED CREMt SAUCE Yield: 72 2-in. (S-em) Ravioli and I 1/2 pI. (.75 It) Sauce Fresh goat cheese Cream cheese
Il oz.
B oz.
330 g 250 g
POTA7Des, GRAINS AND PASTA
msh basil, chopped fine Fresh thyme, chopped fi ne fresh paISley, chopped I
3 Thsp. 2 tsp. 3 Thsp.
45ml
IT
IT I kg I [I
2 [b. I qi.
10m!
45 ml
2 oz.
60 ml
IT
IT
To make the cheese fi lling, combine the goat and cream cheeses with 2 taI*spoons (30 milliliters) basil, I teaspoon (5 milliliters) thyme and all the parsley; season to taste with pepper. Make ravioli using the cheese mixture and pasta. To make the sauce, combine the cream with the remaining herbs and bring lOa boil. Reduce by one third and add the Parmesan, Season with salt and
pepper. Iklil the ravioli until done. Drain, toss gently with the sauce and serve .
sao,
. . . . .~IIlI~ per &OZ. (212-s) serving: Calories Total fal 4S g, Saturaled fal 30 g, Choles· 18Sq. Sodlum 510 mg, To tal carbohydr.lles 23 g, Prolein 15 g, Vltamio A 6cm, Calcium 25%
t========== ~ ============ REC[PE 23.28
FETTUCCINE Ai.FREIJo
rdd: 4 6-oz. (lBO-g) SeiVings fresh fettuccine 1'hoIe buller Heavy cream hrmesan, grated SO and white pepper
80z. 2 oz. 12 oz. 2 oz. IT
250 g 60g
350 ml 60g IT
Boil the pasta, keeping it slightly undercooked. Refresh and drain. To make the sauce, combine the butter, cream and cheese in a saute pan. Bring to a boil and reduce slightly. Add the pasta 10 the pan and boil the sauce and pasta until the sauce is thick and the pasta is cooked. Adjust the seasonings and serve. It v:aI~ per 6-0~. (tn-g} serving: Calories 630, Total fal 49 g, SafUr.lled fal 29 g, Choles· 11lfD3, SOdlum 1(0) mg, Total carboh ydr.lles 33 g, Prolcin 14 g, VltamioA 5016. Calcium 25%
t========== ~ ============ RECIPE 23.29
IBn PASTA
WITH SIIRlMP, TOMATO AND TARRAGON TH.E RITZ CARLTON, OIICMiO, IL
Executive Cbe/George Bumbam rICk!: 4 Servings
Olive oil Onion, peeled and sliced
2 Tbsp. 112 c.
30m! 120 m!
Continued
("\!\.
673
674 '""'.
CflAmR 23
Garlic, minced Tomato concassee
1 lSp.
5 ml 2;0 g
Chives, chopped fine
8 oz. 4 oz. 16 30. 1 c. 2 Thsp. 1lbsp. I Thsp.
Tarragon, chopped I{alian par.<;1"y, chopped
1/2 lSp. 1/2 lSI'.
Dry white wine
Fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined Chicken or shrimp stock
Pcpe pasta Fresh lime juice Whole butler
1. In a medium-sized sauce (X>t over medium hell,
120 ml 16 750ml 2;0 rnl
30 ml 15 g 15ml 3ml 3 ml
saute the onion in
olive oil. Add the garlic and cook for I additional minute. 2. Add the tomatoes, then add the white wine. Simmer until (he liquid isll'
duced
3.
all
sec.
Add the shrimp and cook for
3-4
minutes.
4. [n a separate S:lUce pot, bring the chicken stock [0 a boil. Add the ptpr pasta and simmer until the pasta is tender, approximately 15 minutt'S 5. Drain the pasta lmd toss in (he lime juice, butter and herbs.
6. Genuy stir in the tomato and shrimp mixture and serve immediatei}'. Approximate \';Ilucs per serving: Calories 550. Total fal 15 g. Saturated fal 4 g. Cholc!ilrrol " Sodi um t3S0 mg, Total ca.rbohydNUCS 25 g, Protein 79 g, Vitamin A 30%. Vllamln C 35"1 1ro1
====== ~ ===== RECIPE 23.30
CAPPELLETTI IN BRODa Yield: 10 I-pI. (450-ml) Servings with 12 cappelletti each Filling: Pork loin, roasted Monadella Ricotta Parmes.1n, finely gnued Egg Nutmeg Basic Pasta Dough (Recipe 23.8) Beef Broth (Recipe 11.1 ) Parmesan, shredded Fresh parsley. chopped finf'
6 oz. 4 oz. 6 oz. 6 oz. 1
1SOg 120 g ISO g 1SOg 1
IT
IT
1 lb. 80z,
750 g 5 It 250 g 45 ml
5 q.. 8oz. 31bsp.
I . To prepare the cappelletti filli ng, place the meats and cheeses in a f
processor fined with the met:tl blade. Process until finel y ground. A&i Itt egg and season lightly -\\'itl1 nutmeg. Process until blended but Ilf smoothly pureed. 2. \'(Iork with one quaner of the pasta dough at a time, keeping the rest COII:'!t'Y \0 prevent it from drying alit. Roll alit a portion of the dough until it is rely thin Cut the dough into 2-inch CS-centimeter) squares using a flutcd pasta wiled. 3. Place 1 teaspoon (S millilitcrs) of filling in the center of each square_ Fa.: the dough over the filling to form a rectangle, pinching the edges togedkto seaL Bring the ends of each rectangle together, overlapping them lli pressing to seal.
POTA'JVES, GRAINS AND PASTA
the finished cappelletti on a paper-lined sheet pan. Leave them unw..ered and tum them over once or (Wice SO that they dry evenly. Con*'ue working until all the filling is used. The cappelleui may be cooked
immediately or refrigerated for lmer use. lleat the beef broth to a gentle boil. Drop the cappelletti in and cook until tender, approximately }-S minutes. fuOOn the broth and cappelletti into warmed soup bowls and garnish with ."hre
..",~ per serving; Calories Z70, Total fal 17 g, SalUraled fal mg. TOIa! carbohydrales 3 g, Prolein 27 g, Caklum &m
to g,
Choleslerol 75 mg,
;====== ~, ======
RECIPE 23.3 1
MACARONI AND CHEESE 0Iee:se sauce Cpg. 197) 1Ucestershire sauce Tabasco sauce !bYI.' macaroni, boiled and refreshed a.e&iar cheese, grated l'OOIe buner lread crumbs
2 qt. IT IT 2 lb. 2 lb.
2 It IT IT 1 kg 1 kg
8 oz. 1 oz.
250 g 30 g
the cheese sauce with the Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces. macaroni with the cheese sauce and the cheese. into a buttered full-sized hotel pan. Sprinkle with bread crumbs. uncovered at 350°F (180°C) until hot , approximately 30 minutes. Macaroni and cheese with ham and tomato-Slir 2 pounds (1 each diced cooked ham and tomato concassee into the macaroni before pouring it into the hotel pan. v:ill ues per 8-Qz. (225'g) servi ng: Calories 457, TOIaI fat 27 g, Saturated fat 17 g, :-.C . .•. mg, Sodium 290 g, TOIaI ca rbohydrates 36 g, Prolein t7 g, Vitamin A 18%, Cal·
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 23.32
BAKED ZITI WITIl FRESH TOMATO SAUCE 6 fresh thyme fresh oregano fftsh basil SO and pepper bIian sausage links zm, cooked, refreshed and drained Parmesan, grated
4 lb. 2 Thsp. 2 Thsp .
6 1.8 kg
21bsp.
30 ml 30 ml 30mI
TT
TT
3 1b. 4 1b. 8 oz.
1.4 kg 1.8 kg
250 9 Co nlintled
c""'2\.
675
676 """
ClW'TER 23
Fresh TomalO Sauce (Recipe 10.27) Mozzarella, shredded
3 q" 2 lb.
3 It I kg
1. Combine the eggs, ricotta cheese, thyme, oregano, basil, salt and
2.
3. 4. 5.
6.
Mix well and refrigerate. Place the sausage links in a 2-inch (S-centimeter) deep full-sized cook in a 350°F (ISOOC) oven for 20 minutes. Remove and drain sausage. Slice the links into rounds and reserve. Pour off the sausage fat , then place the ziti in the hotel pan. Top even coating of the cheese mixture, sausage slices and Parmesan. Pour the tomato sauce over the top layer and stir slightly to distribure sauce. Sake at 37soF (I9Q°C) for 1 hour. Sprinkle the mozzarella evenly QI'er pasta and reRlrn to the oven for 10 minutes. Serve. Ziti may also be prepared in individual casseroles. Decrease bal;;ng .." necessary.
";!'::!
Appro:tima!e values per serving: Calo ries 450, Total fat 23 g. Saruralm fal 10 g. mg, Sodium 1290 mg, Total carbohyd ralC5 27 g, Protein 35 g. Vitamin A 4<1%. Iron 15%
============ ~ ==========
RECIPE 23.33
SPINACH AND RICOTTA lAsAGNA WITH BOLOGNESE SAUCE Yield: 28 8-oz. (2SD-g) Servings Fresh spinach pasta dough, rolled into sheers Spinach, stemmed Whole butter Ricotta Parmesan, grated Eggs Salt and pepper Bolognese Sauce (Recipe to.28) Bechamel Sauce (Recipe 10.7)
2 lb. 2 lb. 2 oz. 6 oz. 2
I kg I kg 60g 500 g 180 g 2
IT
IT
3 q" 1 qt.
31t lit
1 lb.
1. Cut the pasta dough into 4-inch (IO-centimeter) strips. Boil in salt.ed ••.."
until done and drain well. 2. Saute the spinach in the butter. I)rain well and cool. 3. Combine the spinach with the ricotta, 4 ounces (I20 grams) of the san and eggs. Season to taste with sail and pepper. 4. Ladle a small amount of the Bolognese Sauce into the bottom of a full-sized hotel pan. Cover the sauce with a layer of cooked pasta. a thin layer of the spinach-and-cheese mixture on the pasla. Ladle a tion of the Bechamel Sauce over the spinach and spread in a thin layer. Ladle a portion of the Bolognese Sauce over the Bechamel spread in an even layer. 5. Add another layer of pasta and repeat the process until all the ;;ngretlioa are used, finishing with a layer of Bechamel sauce. Sprinkle the
POTA7VFS, GRAINS AND p..m;t
cheese on (OP and bake covered at 350c F (l80 C C) until heated approximately 40 minutes. Uncover (he lasagna for the last 15 (hat it browns.
"'""' SO
7-oz.. (203-g) serving: Calories 270, Total fat 8 g, Saturated fat 3.5 g, Cho• ~:;:~:~;;'ll t O rug, To tal carbohydrates 12 So Protein 37 So Vitamin A 30%, Vita· Iron
1( :
4<M
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 23.34
CHILLED CHINESE NOODLE SAlAD 8 4-oz. (120-g) SelVings Drrssing: Dark soy sauce White vinegar ~h
SIlg" Peanut oil Sesame oil Orange zest Red chile flakes OIinese egg noodles, fresh Bran sprouts, blanched Carrtt, finely shredded lbikon, finely shredded Green onion, sliced Bbck sesame seeds fresh cilantro leaves
2 Thsp. 2 Thsp. I tsp. 1 Thsp. 1 Thsp. 1 Thsp. 1 tsp. 1/2 tsp. 8 oz . 8 oz. 6 oz. 3 oz. 2 oz. 1 Thsp. as needed
30 ml 30m] 5ml 15 ml 15 ml 15 ml 5 ml 2 ml 250 g 250 g 180 g
90g 60g 15 ml as needed
Combine the dressing ingredients and whisk thoroughly. Cook the egg noodles in rapidly boiling salted water until tender, approxwtely 2 minutes. Drain and refresh; drain again. Toss the noodles with the bean sprouts, carrots, daikon, green onion and ItSame seeds. Add the dressing and toss gently until the noodles and vegeubles are thoroughly coated. well. Serve mounds of this noodle salad as an appetizer or an acctmpaniment for grilled fish or chicken. Garnish with cilantro. values per 4-i.1Z. (I n-s) serving: Calories 110, Total f.lt 4.5 g, Saturated fat .5 g, Chao SodIum 570 rug, Total carbohydr:ales 14 g, Protein 3 g, Vlumin A 40%. C!ainu-
~~: .~
109.' 5:lIUtaled
f~1
=========== ~ ============= RECIPE 23.35
POTATO GNOCCHI YIrId: 8 Servings
Iu.sse! poutoes AII·purpose flour Ei! yolks
31b.
3-4c 3
1.4 kg 720-960 ml 3 Cominued
c""a.
677
678
,~.
ClW1'ER 23
Nutmeg Salt White pepper
l/S ~p. I {Sp.
1/ 2 rul ; ml
1T
IT
1. Peel the potatoes, then steam or boil them until tender. Allow the
2.
3. 4.
5.
(i
to cool, then pass them through a potato ricer or food mill. Do nC( the pOialoes with a mixer or food processor. Place the potatoes in a mi.xing bowl and add 1 cup (2;0 mH; 1;1;",,) ,/ .. flou r, the egg yolks, nmmeg, salt and pepper. Knead the dough by hand, adding additional fl our as necessary soft dough that does nOt stick to your fingers. Cut off a small piece of the dough and roll it into a long rope, about inch 0.8 centimeters) thick. Cut the rope into I-inch (2.;·centimeter) pieces. Roll each piece quickly with the tines of a fork, then place sheet pan dusted with fl our. Bring a large pot of water 10 a fu ll boil. Add the gnocchi all at stir gently. Cook until the gnocchi float to the surface, approximatel)' 2 minutes. Gently lift the gnocchi out of the water with a slotted spooo Place the gnocchi in a warm bowl and toss with the desired sauce, (X . ply sprinkle with olive oil and grated Parmesan. Serve immediatelr.
Ch<,k"","'.
Approxirn;lle ",dues per serving: Calorie$ 356, Total ral 3 g, Saluraled fal .7 g. Sodium 280 mg. Total carboh)·d rales 73 g, PTolein 10 g, Vllamln C 55%. Iron
l~
============ ~ ==========
RECIPE 23.36
SPAETZLE Yield: 30 3-oz. (90-g) Servings Eggs Water Flour Salt Nutmeg Whole butter Fresh parsley, chopped
12 I qL 31b. 2 tsp. 1/2 tsp.
8 oz. as needed
12 1h 1.4 kg IOml 2ml 250 g " oeede
J. Whisk the eggs to blend. Add the water, flour, salt and nutmeg. Mix
well blended; do nOI overmix. 2. Place the batter in a colander suspended over a large pot of lXliling Work the batter through the colander's holes using a plastic bowl or rubber spatula. The batter should drop into the boiling water. 3. Cook the dumplings in the boiling water for approximately }-4 Remove Ihem with a skimmer and refresh. 4. For service, saute the dumplings lightly in butter, just until hot. with chopped parsley. Approxirn;lte '":Ilues per )-oz. <9O-g) SClVing: Calori~ 2;0. Total fal 9 II. SalUralrli fal U !esterol 100 IllS. Sodium 2;0 mg. Total carbohrdral~ 35 g. Prolein ; g. Vitamin A ]~
PART FOUR
~n paced
kitche~
perfecting the classic brigade, Escoffier Ihe garde manger (or pantry cheO in charge of all oj
Hhapler on salads and salad dressings, followed by one mfruils. Sandwiches are then discusssed. Next, there is a mapler on charcuterie, which describes forcemea ts and their uses, information necessary to any well-rounded Mina'l' education. The final chapter is devoted to hors loeuvre and canapes.
,
HAPTER
24
York, NY CbeflOu'ner Alfred Por/ale
=== ~ == After srudying this chapter, you will
be able ("\!\,
("\!\,
10:
identify a variety of salad greens prepare a variety of salad dress-
ings ("\!\,
("\!\,
prepare a variety of salads present salads anraaively
his chapter discusses all types of salads: the small plafeoj iceberg lettuce with tomato wedges, cucumber slices and ranch ing,. the dinner plate of sauteed duck breast fanned across bright grilled radicchio and toothy green arugula, sprayed with a l'i
grette dressing; the scoop of shredded chicken, mango chutney seasonings, bound with mayonnaise; and the bowl of arlicholits mushrooms marinated in olive oil and /emonjllice.
Each of these dishes fits the definition of a salad: a single joodr:l. mix of different foods accompanied or bound by a dressillg. AsaJtJI can cOlltain meat, grains, Intits, nuts or cheese alld absolutely Ilo/tf. luce. It can be an appetizel; a second course served after the ap fizel; an entree (especially at IUlIch), a course followirlg the emritil the European manner or even desselt. The color, texture and flavor of each sa/ad ingredient should C(At plement those of the otbers, and tbe dressing sbould comp/emem" the ingredie'lts. Harmony is critical to a salad's success-no matIt1 what type of salad is beillg prepared. This chapter opens with a section identifying grwlS commolllf used in sa/ads. A discussion of sa/ad dressings follows. Finally, raj. niques for prepan'ng green salads (both tossed and compostdJ. bound salads, vegelable salads and fmit salads are discussed.
SAlAD GREENS
..m-,
Identifying Salad (}reens Salad greens are not necessarily green: Some are red, yellow, while or broq. They are all, however, leafy vegetables. Many are members of the letnKt II chicory families.
Lettuce Leuuce (Fr. laiflle; It. lattuga) has been consumed for nearly as long as ~ pie have kept records of what they and others ate. Archaeologists found 1111 Persian royalty were served letruce at their banquets more than 2500 years .. Now grown and served worldWide, lettuces are members of the genus lie fuca. The mosl common types of lettuce are butterhead, crisp head, leaf .. romaine.
Boslon
is.
Their,.
Boslon and bibb are two of the most popular butterhead lettuces. pliable, pale green leaves have a buttery texture and flavor. Boston and paler than bibb. Both Boston and bibb lettuce leaves form cups when5ep' arated from the heads; these ClipS make convenient bases for holding. foods on cold plates.
Iceberg Iceberg lettuce is the most common of all lettuce varieties in the United States; it outSells all other varieties combined. Its lightl}' packed spherical head is composed of crisp, pale green leaves with a very mild flavor. Iceberg lettuce remains crisp
for a relativel}' long time after being cut or prepared. Select heads that are firm but n01 hard and leaves that are free of burnt or
nlsty tips.
Leaf leaf leltuce grows in bunches. It has sepa rate, ruffle-edged leaves branching 1SL11k Because it does 1101 grow into a firm head. it is , damJged during harvest and transport. Both red and IlttIllt.':lflcuuce have bright colors, mild fl:lvors and tender t'" Good-qualiIY leaf lettuce should have nicely shaped t'S free
Netl tlnd G'reell Lea!Lellllces
of bruises, breaks or brown spots.
!'I\1line tenuce, also known as cos, is a loosely packed ~Iuce
with elongated leaves and thick midribs. Its are d1rk green and although they look coarse, ore crisp, tender and t:lSt}' without being biner, 111e core leaves are pale r me tender but still crisp. Romaine has enough flavor 10 sland up 10 )!I\' fbl'ore
&bJ'lettuces Irux)I"ltil"e chefs are always looking for new and different foods 10 add a \wist or nair to their dishes. This has led to the popularity of baby lettuces and other specialty greens. Baby greens bave similar bw more subtle flavors than their mature versions. TIley are oft en less bitler llnel are always more tender and delicate. Because of their size and variery, they are perfect for composed salads. MescJun is a mixture of several kinds of baby lettuces .
ROIII(lille
. . IHiltr
loki Rosa
Red Sails
fuby Green Bibb W,ttrlBibb Pirate
IJtlb)' Ne(1 Otlk I.ea!
IJtIlJ)' Red Nonlllille
684
C'""!t!\..
ClIAPlfJl 24
Chicory Chicories come in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes; most are s1igluh· ter. Chicories are quite hearty and can also be cooked, usually griIleI1 braised.
Belgian Endive
Belgian Enditoe
Belgian endive grows in small, tight heads with pointed leaves. It is r.l ally the shoO! of a chicory roo!. The small sturdy leaves are while at the tar with yellow fringes and tips. (j.. purple-tipped variety is sometimes a\m Whole leaves can be separated, trimmed and filled with soft buners. ctJmt. or spreads and served as an hors d'oeuvre. Or they can be used for COffijXl!F. &1Iads. The leaves, cut or whole, can also be added to cold salads. HeW Belgian endive are often brnised or grilled and served with meat or ~ the name suggests, Belgian endive is imported from Belgium.
Curly Endive CIIf/), Endive
In this country, curly endive is often called by its family name, chica) its French name, frisee. The dark green outer leaves are pointed, sturdj·.: slightly biuer. The yellow inner leaves are more tender and less biuer. endive has a Slrong flavor that goes well with Strong cheeses, game aoom It is often mixed with other greens to add texture and flavor.
Escarole
Escarole
Escarole, sometimes called broadleaf endive, has thick leaves and a bitter flavor. It has green outer leaves and pale green or yellow center le;\t\ Escarole is very sturdy and is often mixed with other greens for added teltlJl: Its Strong flavor stands up to full-flavored dressings and is a good act'Oll"!p» ment to grilled meatS and poultry.
Radicchio
Radicchio
Radicchio resembles a small red cabbage. It retains its bright reddish ca when cooked and is popular braised or grilled and served as a \,egetable \Ill dish. Because of its attractive color, radicchio is popular in cold salads.1lr has a very biuer flavor and should be used sparingly and mixed \\-itb ategreens in a tossed salad. The leaves form cups when separated and am II: used to hold other ingredients when preparing composed salads. Racliccru: quite expensive and availability is sometimes limited.
Giber Salad Greens and Ingrediellts l.e'dfy vegetables besides lenuce and chicory, as well as ()(her ingredients.• used to add texture, flavor and color to salads. A panial listing follows.
Arugllfa
Amgula Arugula, also known as rocket, is a member of the cabbage family. Am able as individual leaves, they are somewhat similar to broad dandelion ~\t! in size and shape. The best are 2 to 4 inches (S to 10 ccmimeteJSl bit Arugula has a veIY strong, spicy, peppeIY flavor-so strong, in faa. that t rarely served by itself. [t is best when used 10 add zip to salads by comhinq it with other greens.
Dalldelioll
Dandelion
Dandelion grows as a weed tbroughout most of the United States. [tin! long, thin, toothed leaves with a prominent midrib. When purchasing datkrlion for salads, look for small leaves. They are more tender and less ~ Older, tougber leaves can be cooked and served as a vegetable.
S1LADS AND XAf) DRESSINGS c"'a.
685
llirbe 'U:he or lamb's lenuce is very tender and very delicately flavored. Irs cuplike pale 10 dark green leaves have a slightly nutly flavor. Because !1amr is so delicate, mache should be combined only with Olher delicately
Jlliiche
greens such as Boston or bibb lettuce and dressed sparingly with a
rinaigrene dressing.
lareI ~,
sometimes called sourgrass, has leaves similar to spinach in color
IIlshape. Sorrel has a very tan, lemony flavor that goes well with fish and ~. It should be used sparingly and combined with other greens in abd. Sorrel can also be made into soups, sauces and purees.
IpilllJCh like sorrel, spinach can be cooked or used as a salad green. As a salad pml, it is popularly served wilted and tossed with a hal bacon dressing. ~ is deep green with a rich flavor and tender texture. Good-quality ~ should be fairly crisp. Avoid wilted or yellowed bunches.
iproul, Sprlxlts are not salad greens but are oflen used as such in salaI! aOO sand....'iches. Sprouts are very young alfalfa, daikon or IlIUrd plants. Alfalfa sprouts are very mild and sweet. Daikon .mmust:lrd sprouts are quite peppery. Spinacb
Sprouts
lilt"""" ralemess has liny, dime-sized leaves and substantial stems. It ku peppery navor and adds spice lO a salad. Good..quaJity fresh watercress d:ut green with no yellowing. To preserve its freshness, watercress must be Ip I"l'f)' cold and moist. It is normally packed topped with ice. Individual DIe are plucked from the sIems and rinsed just before service.
Uib/e Flowers
If'IJtercress
Many specialty produce growers offer edible, peslIiJe·free blossoms. TIleY are used for salads and as pniShes wherever a splash of color would be appteiated. Some flowers such as nasturtiums, calenduIII md pansies are grown and picked specifically for
ering. OIhers, such as yellow cucumber flowers and ~ blossoms, are byproducts of the vegetable industry. ~h blossoms and other very large flowers aud be cut in julienne strips before being added to IIIxk. Pick pe[:d.~ fmm l:lrge and mNlillm-si7ed Smaller whole flowers can be tossed in a -.I or used as a garnish when composing a salad. 1m!im.1ll flowers or petals should be sprinkled on qld aS3lad so that they are not hidden b}' the greens.
Nasturtiums
"'tIS.
fmbHerb, &Sil, thyme, tarragon, oregano, dill, Cilantro, maljoram, mint, sage, savory ai even rosemary are used to add interesting flavors (0 otherwise ordinary Ibds. Because many herbs have strong flavors , use them sparingly so that the Iik-a(f flavors of lhe greens are not overpowered. Leafy herbs such as basil el sage can be Cll! chiffonade. Other herbs can be picked from their stems II cixlpped before being tossed with the salad greens. Flowering herbs such
Many floy;ers and blossoms are toxic, especially those pn from bulbs. Even tlm.'ers that \\tluld otherwise be edible may oonlain pestiddes that can be hannful if ingested. Use only flowers grawn specifically for use as food; pulthase edible floy;ers only from reputable purveyors.
TABLE 24. 1 "'" NUTRITIONAl VALUES OF SELEctED S.i llD GREENS AND DRESSINGS Salad greens per 4-oz. (J 12-g) serving, (rimmed
Salad dressings per J-oz. (28-g) serving Belgian endive Boston lettuce Chicory greens Dandelion greens Iceberg lenure
Keal
20 16 28
,--,
Prolfin (g)
Carbohydrates
1.6 1.6 2 3.2
3.6 2.8 5.2
16
1.2
ROlT\Jine lenure
20
Blue cheese dressing
143 110 67
2 1.4 03
Mayonnaise
Vinaigrette
Fiber
(g)
lOA
2.4 2.8 21 6.8 23
<0.1
1.2 1.2 0.8 2 1.2 2
Total Fat (g)
Vitamin )1\
Vitamin C
Calcium
(I.U.)
(mg)
(mg)
0.4 0.4
2052
52 mq
OA
8 6.7
14,400
88
360
0.8 0,4
mq 383
mq 5.8
mq 23
'" 2
,r
0
0
816
0.4
2912
28
<0.1
14.8
0 mq
9.5 6.5
32 32
<1 0 0
0
12
7be Con'lIlle T. Jlletzer EnC)'Clopedia of F()()(I Vallies 1992
mq - mea5Ur:lble quantity, bU! daL, is unavailable
tr -
Inee amounts
as chive blossoms are used like other edible flowers to add color, nalU' aroma. Refer to Chapter 7, Kitchen Staples, for more information on I"IeJh
Nutrition Salad greens are an especially healthful food. Greens contain and few calories and are high in vitamins A and C, iron and fiber. garnished with meat and cheese and tossed with a dressing (many d
are oil based), fat and calories are added. In an attempt to maintain the fu\ nature of greens, low-fat or fat-free dressings should be ,,,dl,t,le}(, at tomers.
Purchasing and Storing Salad Greens Purchasing Lettuces are grown in nearly every part of the United States; nearly all . are available year-round. Other important salad greens such as sp,.cb. available all year; many of the specialty greens are seasonal. Lettuce is generally packed in cases of 24 heads with varying weighl5. Obcr salad greens are packed in trays or boxes of various sizes and weights. Because salad greens are simply washed and eaten, it is extremel)". tant that they be as fresh and blemish-free as possible. Try to purchase saIi greens daily. All greens should be fresh looking, with no yellowing. Heal should be heavy, with little or no damage to the outer leaves. Many rypes of salad greens are available precut and prewashed.. 11:ae greens are o ften vacuum-packed to increase shelf life, although delicate greeI are sometimes loosely packaged in 5- to to-pound (2- to S-kilo) boxes. Prell and prewashed greens are relatively expensive, but can reduce labor co&stDmatically.
Storing Although some rypes of salad greens are hearty enough to keep for a week II more under proper conditions, all salad greens are highly perishable. Gmcf. ally, softer-leaved varieties such as Boston and bibb tend to perish IIKIr quickly than the crisper-leaved varieties such as iceberg and romaine.
&!lADS AND S-ilAD DRESSiNGS ~
«ens should be stored in their original protective callons in a specifically t refrigerator. Ideally, greens should be stored at temperatures be}!QF and 38°F (I°C-3°C). (Most other vegetables should be slored at temperatures of 40"F-SOOF WC-lOoe].) Greens should not be stored IOO1atoes, apples or other fruitS that emit ethylene gas, which causes wilt and accelerates sJX)ilage. OIl wash greens until you need them, as excess water causes them to quickly.
'$IIril1J(Salad Greens r.:;s salad greens are purchased precut and prewashed, they will need to ai'rgo some preparation before service, principally tearing, cutting, washing W)'ing.
chefs want all salad greens torn by hand. Delicate greens such as butand baby lettuces look nicer, and it is less likely they will be bruised I ~~::::~. But often it is not practical to hand-tear all greens. It is perfectly to cut hardy greens with a knife.
I
1roDt."RE
FOR ClJlTlNG RO~WNE b ,TrUCE
1 To cut romaine 1enuce, trim the wter leaves and damaged tips ~1h a chefs knife and split the Ir.ld lengthwise.
2, Make one or two cuts along the length of the head, leaving the root inlact, then cut across the width of the head.
Alternative method: Trim the outer leaves and damaged tips with a chefs knife. Pull the leaves from the core and Cllt the rib out of each leaf. The leaf can then be Cllt to the desired size .
687
688
~
CHAPTER 24
PROCEDURE FOR CoRING ICEBERG I.ErnJCE
I . Loosen the core by gripping the
head and smacking the core on me cu11ing board. (Do not use too much force or you may bruise the lettuce.)
2. Remove the core and cut the lettuce as desired.
PROCEDURE FOR REMOVING THE MIDRlB FROM SPINACH
Fold rhe leaf in half and pull off the stem and midrib. Only the tender led should remain.
Washing All lettuces and other salad greens should be washed before use. Even q they may look clean, greens may harbor hidden insects, sand, soil and It*' cides. All greens should be washed after they are torn or cut. Whole mill be washed by repeatedly dipping them in cold water and allowing them drain. But washing whole heads is not recommended: It will not remOlu,," thing trapped near the head's center, and water trapped in the leal"es can accelerate spoilage.
.w.ALlS' AND SALW DRESSINGS
FOR WASHING
SALIn
GREENS
L rill a sink with very cold water,
Place the cut or torn greens in the 'utero
2. Gently stir the water and greens with your hands and remove the
greens. Do not allow the greens to soak. Using fresh water each time, repeat the procedure until no grit can be detected on the bottom of the sink after the greens are removed.
~ !81 greens should be dried after washing. Wet greens do not stay as crisp as "."'I",lri" ones. Also, wet greens tend to repel oil-based dressings and .,kihei, flavors. Greens may be dried by draining them well in a colander
.bIooing them with absorbent cloth or paper towels. or, preferably, they can drtd in a salad spinner, which uses centrifugal force to remove the water.
ImocRE FOR DR\1NG GREENS
After washing the greens, place them in the basket of a salad spinner and
spin for approximately 30 seconds.
£iwJ DRFSSINGS '~g
..P.r-,
is a sauce for a salad. Just as sauces for hot foods should comple-
1m rl!her than
mask the flavor of the principal food, the sauce (dressing) for should complement rather than mask the flavors of the other ingrediaD :\!though a greal many ingredients can be used to make salad dressings, aI\13re oosed on either a mixtme of oil and vinegar, called a vinaigrette, or lmayonnaise or other emu lsified product. ~
f""!a.
689
690 ..... ,
CJIAPl7!R 24
Vinaigrette-style dressings can be made without oil; creamy ,"".mg, iii lar to mayonnaise-based dressings can be made with sour cream. buttermilk instead of mayonnaise. Nevertheless, for all pradicai dressings arc still prepared like vinaigrettes and n",yonn";~,-b;,,ed and they are treated that way here.
Vinaigrette Dressings The simple vinaigrel1e, also known as basic French dressing, is emulsion of oil and vinegar seasoned with salt and pepper. The .~Kl3,'. is three parts oil to one pan vinegar. The ratio can vary, however. strongly flavored oils, Jess than three parts oil to one pan vinegar suffices. In some recipes, all or part of the vinegar is replaced .;,h ci,rus ,,, in which case, it may take more than one part vinegar and citrus juice 10 parts oil to achieve the proper acidity level. The best way to determine correct ratio of oil to vinegar is to taste the dressing, preferably on will dress. Oils and vinegars have unique flavors that can be mixed and achieve the correct balance for a particular salad. Olive oil goes well red wine vinegar; nut oils go well with balsamic or sherry vinegars. ! flavored oils such as canola, corn or safflower can be mixed with 3 vinegar. Oil and vinegar repel each other and will separate almOSI when mixed. TIley should be whisked together immediately before use.
Oils Many rypes of oil can be used to make salad dressings. Light, ne;:,~:~":: oils such as canola, corn, cottonseed, soybean and safflower are priced and used extensively for this purpose. Other oils can be flavor. Olive oil is very popular; both mild-flavored pure olive oil 300 vored extra virgin olive oil are used. Nut oils sllch as hazelnut and expensive, but they add unique and interesting flavors. Infused oils art' popular.
Vinegars fo.bny different vinegars can be used to make salad dressings. gar is the most common because it is inexpensive and its flavor I with many foods. But other vinegars such as dder, bals.lmic and whrte are also used. Fruit-flavored vinegars (particularly raspberry) are popular and widely available, as are herb- and gMlic-flavored ones. Flavored vinegars are easy to make. Fruit , herbs or garlic are wine vinegar (either rf'd or white) and left for several days for the blend. The vinegar is then strained off and used as desired. Acidic juices such as lemon, orange and lime are sometimes "bstiN,
O/ber Flavoring Ingredients Herbs, spices, shallots, garlic, mustard and sugar are only a few nf ,"'. . . flavoring ingredients used to enhance a vinaigrette dressing. Items herbs, shallots and garlic should be minced or chopped before be,ng "ddcd, the dressing. If dried herbs are used, the dressing should rest for at hour to allow the fl avors to develop. Other ingredients may be added time.
SAlADS AND SAUJJ DRES5INGS I""'!a.
fOR PREPARING A VINAIGR<1TE
an oil and vinegar that complement each other as well as the foods dress. the Vinegar, seasonings and any (){her flavorings in a bowl. in the oil. Ib.. the finished dressing 10 res! a few hours al room temperature before so lhal1he flavors can blend. immediately before use.
~'I\ill
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 24.1
BASIC VINAlGRE1TE DRESSING rdd: I ql. (J It)
8 oz.
250 ml
n
n
24 oz.
750 m1
Store al room temperature. ~"S:
Dijon vinaigrette-Add 4 ounce.> (120 grams) Dijon-style mUSlard lhninegar and proceed wilh Ihe recipe. ~ ~inaigrel1e-Add 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) of fresh herbs or 1 taO; milliliters) dried herbs such as basil, tarragon, thyme, maIjoram I"'.ctli'·~ to the vinaigrette. •'1Iue5 per ] .01. (30-m1) serving: Calorle!J I!l(l, Total fat 22 g, Saturated foil " g, COOmg Sodlum 75 mg, Total carbo hydra te! 0 g, Protdn 0 So Cb ims--no chole9ero1; low
I_w,.,.,
UIoJgh mOst food service operations buy commercially made mayonnaise, know how it is made to more fully understand how 10 use it Idwhy it re3C1S the way it does when used. Knowing how to make mayon_also311ows you to create a mayonnaise with the exact flavorings you want. liaj'Orulaise is an emulsified sauce. An emulsified sauce is fomled when two thaI would nOt ordinarily form a stable mixture are forced IOgether and ~iI'Isuspension. To make mayonnaise, oil is whisked together with a very amount of vinegar. (It is the water in the Vinegar lhat does not normally mix oo.);l.s the oil and vinegar are whisked together, the oil breaks into microdroplets that are separated from each Dlher by a thin barrier of vinegar. If m, the dropletS would Quickly regroup. forming a large puddle of oil and GIll puddle of vinegar. To prevent the oil droplets from regrouping, an emuljatiadded. For mayonnaise, the emulsifier is lecithin, a protein found in egg , (Tht' acid in the vinegar also helps form the emulsion.) Lecilhin has the "J"I)il;Jtl' to combine with both oil and water. It surrounds lhe oil droplets, from coming in contact with each other and regrouping. of Vinegar, oil, lecithin and agitation (whipping) is crucial to proper emulsion. The higher the proportion of oil to vinegar, the sauce will be. The higher the proportion of vinegar to oil, the thin!be sauce will be. (For example, the emu lsified vinaigrette dressing dison page 694 is a thin emulsion.) ~'chefshould
Whisking together the vinaigrette dressing .
691
692 '"""
CIW'lIiR 24
==
<'\!II?>
==
MAYONNAISE ~.
.£UAD
DRESSINC
Commerrially prepared salad drEssing is often used as a substitute for "real" mayoomuse. Although it may look, smell and spread like the real thing, salad dressing tends to be SVr-eeter than mayonnaise. Salad dressing costs leiS than real mayonnaise because it is made . . .ithout egg yolks, relying instead on chemical thickening agents. The cost is reduced further because the rnA requires salad
dressing to contain only 30% oil, while mayonnaise must contain at leasl6S% oiL
""''0.''.
There is a limit to how much oil each egg yolk can emulsify, \II yolk contains enough lecithin to emulsify approximately 7 ounces liters) of oiL If more than that amount of oil per egg yolk is added, will break; that is, the oil and vinegar will separate, and the mayonnai
Ingredients A neutral-flavored vegetable oil is most often used for a Sllaa~n:d~;a~rd:t~::~ Other oils are used to contribute their special flavors. For e used to make a special mayonnaise called afo/i. Wine vinegar is used for a standard mayonnaise. Flavored vinegars tarragon vinegar are oflen used to create unique flavors. Seasonings vary according to the intended use but typically include mustard, salt, pepper and lemon juice.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING MAYONNAISE
1. Gather all ingredients and hold m room temperature. ingredients emulsify more easily than cold ones. 2. By hand or in an electric mixer or food processor, whip the egg rolksCCl high speed until frothy. 3. Add the seasonings to the yolks and whip to combine. Salt and other seasonings will dissolve or blend more easily when added at this poiI1 rather than if added to the finished mayonnaise. 4. Add a small amount of the liquid (for example, vinegar) from the recipl' and whip to combine. 5. With the mixer on high or whisking vigorously by hand, begin to add dr oil very slowly until an emulsion forms. 6. After the emulsion forms, the oil can be added a little more Q";"~YOOt,. in a slow, steady stream. The mayonnaise can now be whippedata slightly slower speed. 7. The mayonnaise will become very thick as more oil is added. Asmall amount of liquid can be added jf it becomes too thick. Alternate betwm. oil and liquid two or three times until all the oil is added and the correa consistency is reached. important: A large egg yolk has the ability to emulsify up to 7 ounces (200 milliliters) of oil; adding more oil may at« the mayonnaise to break. S. Adjust the seasonings and refrigerate immediately.
~
RECIPE 24.2
MAYONNAISE Yield: 1 qt. (1 l!) Egg yolks Salt White pepper Dry mustard Wine vinegar Salad oil Lemon juice
4 1 lSp.
4 5 ml
IT
IT
1 lSp. 3 Thsp. 28 oz.
45 ml
840ml
IT
IT
;ml
SAL1JJS AND s.tlAD DRESSINGS
c"'!a.
the egg yolks in the bowl of a mixer and whip on high speed umil hahy. dry ingredients and half me vinegar to the yolks; whisk to combine. [0 add the oil a drop at a time umil the mixture begins to thicken an emulsion beings to form. \dI the remaining oil in a slow steady stream, thinning the mayonnaise oc· a.«<mally by adding a little vinegar. Continue until all the oil and vinegar bal't been incorporated. the seasonings and add lemon juice to taste. until needed.
IHfug,,,,,
I.._· ",,~ per l.oz. (3I}g) .serving' Calorie$ 230, Total fat 26 g. SatUr.l!ed f:u 3.5 g, (bo. mg. Sodium 75 mg, Total carbohydralC5 0 g, Protein 0 g
thippiog the egg yolks until "'y.
l iI)m'lna~)e-B,'1Sed
2. Adding the oil vel)' slowly, allowing the emulsion 10 form.
Dressings
lI\'OO!laise·based salad dressings are salad dressings that use mayonnaise as , with other ingredients added for flavor, color and texture. These ininclude dail)' products (especially buttermilk and sour cream), vinefruit juice, vegetables (either pureed or minced), tomato paste, garliC, herbs, spices, condiments, capers, anchovies and boiled eggs. Recipes I mayonnaise-based salad dressings are at the end of this chapter.
!inuM'ijied Vinaigrette Dressings emulsified vinaigrette is a standard vinaigrette dreSSing emulsified with ,IOl' ~'" An emulsified vinaigrette dressing is thinner and lighter than a may'~~:~;:I::~~~ and heavier than a basic vinaigrette. Its flavor is similar I~ it will not separate and it dings to greens quite easily.
I ~1IIlll~ FOR PREPARmG AN EMUlSlFIED VINAlGRETIE DRESSING 1 wmer aU ingredients and hold at room temperature. Room-temperature mgredienlS emulsify more easily than cold ones. 1lIip the eggs until frothy, AIkl the dry ingredients and any flavorings such as garlic, shallots and herbs. • ,i4j a small amount of the liquid from the recipe and whip to incorporate !be ingredients.
3. The finished mayonnaise.
693
694 "",
CIWl1iR 24
== ~ == CONYEIIIENCE PRODUCTS
A great many prepared and dry-mix salad dressings are available. Although they vary grea~y in quality, they can be very economical; they reduce labor costs and sometimes rood costs. Some of these pnxluct<; use stabilizers, artificial flavorings and colors; nearly all contain preservatives. When considering the advantages of prepared or dry-mix salad dressings, always keep quality in mind.
5. With the mixer on high or whbking vigorously by hand, begin addinglb: oil very slowly until the emulsion forms. (i After the emulsion is formed, the oil can be added a lillie more quickl! still in a slow, steady stream. 7. Alternate between oil and liquid two or three limes umil all the oil is added. The dressing should be much thinner than mayonnaise. If it is 100 thick. it can be thinned with a litde waler, vinegar or lemon juice.
Determine which to usc by first lasting the dressing.
= = = = = = = ""V"" = = = = = = RECIPE 24.3
EIlIULSIFIED VINAlGRElTE DRESSING Yield: I qt. (I It) Eggs, whole Salt White pepper Paprika Dry mustard Granulated sugar Herbes de Provence Cayenne pepper Wine \'inegar or cider vinegar Salad oil Lemon juice J.
2. 3. 4.
5. 6.
2
2
11bsp. 1/2 tSp. llbsp. 11bsp. 11bsp.
15 ml 2 IllI 15 m! 15 mI 15 ml 1; ml
IT
IT
4 oz. 24 oz. 3 oz.
12() mI 120m! 90ml
I Thsp.
place the eggs in the bowl of a mb:er :md whip at high speed until fnmr Add the dry ingredients and approximalel}, 1 ounce (30 grams) of to the eggs; whip to combine. While whipping at high speed, begin adding the oil very slowl)' uml emulsion forms. Add the remaining oil in a slow, steady stream. Occasionally thin the-~ ing by adding a little vinegar and lemon juice. Continue until aU !he vinegar and lemon juice have been incorporated. Adjust the flavor and consistency. Refrigerate until needed.
Approximatc \'Jtues per l-oz. QO.ml) ~rving: Calo ries 200. Total fal 22 g, Salurattd bI leslcroi t5 mg, Sodium 220 mg. TOIaI carbohydrales ] g, Prolcin ] g
I. \X1hipping the whole eggs.
2. Adding the oil drop by drop to establish the emulsion.
~,
3. TIle finished emulsified \inaigItw
dressing.
StlAllS AND SAlAD DRm/l'GS
METHODS
.n-..
are IWO Iypes of green salads: tossed and composed. The more infar..~;::~;~~:~ is prepared by placing the greens, garnishes and dressing in I~ 'I and tossing 10 COmbine. A com posed salad usually has a more look. It is prepared by arranging each of (he ingredicms on plales in UllSIi( fashion. Qber types of salads include bound s alads, which are cooked meats, , fish, shellfish, pasta or potatoes bound with a dressing, vegetable salfruit salads.
b
Matchillg Dressings and Salad Greens TbeJt is a simple rule to follow when choosing dressings for salads: TIle delicate the texrure and flavor of (he greens or other ingredients, the • •*_ •• , more subtle the dressing should lx. Vimtigll::Lte-b;tSt;:u urc~sings are lighter than mayonnaise-based or similar dressings and should be used bul1crhead lettuces, mache or other deliGlte greens. Crisp head letlllCe • ictherg and hardy lettuce like romaine can stand up to heavier, mayonD!t-based or similar dressings.
24.2 ."..,
MArCHING DRESSINGS AND SALID GREENS Greens
made with il and red wine Vinegar
..."" d,,,,',,, made with and balsamic vinegar vimigrene dressing
dressing such green gcxidess
Arty greens: iceberg, romaine, leaf leuuce, butterhead lettuce, escarole, curly endive, Belgian endive, radicchio, baby lettuces. sorrel, aruguia, d:lndelion Delicate greens: butterhead lettuce, bibb lettuce, Belgian endive, radicchio, baby lenuces, aruguia, mache, watercress Any greens: romaine, leaf lettuce, butterhead lenuce, escarole, curly endive, l3elgian endive, radicchio, baby lettuces, sorrel, arugula, watercress Hardy greens: iceberg, romaine, lC"df lettuce, escarole, curly endive, sorrel, dandelion
~
695
696 .......
CIIAPl'ER 24
Salad Garnishes It is impossible to make a complete list of the garnishes that can be Do bined with salad greens for a tossed salad. A partial Jist includes:
• Vegetables-nearly any vegetable-raw, blanched or fully cooked---culilll appropriate sizes and uniform shapes. • Fruit,s.---c:itrus segments, apples or pears; dried fruits such as raisins, ~ or apricots.
• Meats, poultry, fish and shellfish-cooked meats and poultry sliced or eked
neatly and unifonnly; poached, grilled or cured fish, diced or flaked; smaI. whole cooked shellfish such as shrimp and scallops; lobster or crab sliced. d iced or chopped.
• Cheeses-grated hard cheeses such as Parmesan, Romano or Asiago: se!It hard cheese such as cheddar and Swiss, cut julienne or shredded. + Nuts-nearly any are appropriate, roasted, candied or smoked. + Croutons-assorted breads, seasoned in various ways and toasted. PROCEDURE FOR MAKING TOSSED SALADS
1. Select greens with various colors, textures and flavors. 2. Carefully cut or lear, wash and dry the greens.
3. Prepare the garnishes as directed or desired. 4. Prepare the dressing. 5. Combine the greens, garnishes and dressing by tOSSing them together. () toss the greens and garnishes and, using a spray bottle, spray the greens with the dressing.
============ ~ ==========: I RECIPE 24.4
MESCWN SAlAD WI11I RAsPBERRY VINAlGRE1TE Yield: 6 Servings Baby lettuces, assorted Mache Fresh herbs Edible flowers Raspberry Vinaigrette (Recipe 24.9)
approx. 8 heads 4 oz. 2 Tbsp. approx. 12
4 oz.
approx.81m 120 g
30 ml approx.12 120 mI
1. Trim, wash and dry the baby lettuces and mache.
A simple mesdun So1lad.
2. Pick the fresh herbs from their stems. If using leafy herbs such as bat they may be cut chiffonade or left as whole leaves. 3. If deSired, pick the petals from the edible (lowers. Small flowers ~·lt left whole. 4. Place the leltuces and mache in a bowl and add the herbs. Ladle me me. ing over them and toss gently, using two sfX>Ons. 5. Transfer the salads to cold plates. Some of the larger leaves may be u!aI as liners if desired. li Garnish each salad with (lowers or flower petals. Approximate values ~ SI.'fVing' Calorie!! 150, TOlal fal 9 g, Saturated fat 1 g, CboItstmll ~1J SodIum 180 mg, Tolal. carbohydrales 14 g, Proleln 4 g, Vita min A 35%. Vitamin C 12O'!1o
S1LWSANDS
1"=' Wee" salads usually use a green as a base and are built by anisti.uranging other ingredients on the plate. There are usually four compothe base, lxxIy, garnish and dressing. ~ base is usually a layer of salad greens that line the plate on which the '1oiD be served. Depending upon the desired effect, the leaves can be I,;.ped or flat. is the main ingredient. It can be lettuce or other greens, or anI.-,.,dmade from cooked or blended ingredients, such as chicken salad
:< garnish is added to the salad for color, texture and flavor.
It can be as as a grilled, sliced duck breast or as simple as a sprinkling of herbs; il can be warm or cold . TIle choice is unlimited, bUI whatever should always complement and balance the flavor of the body. Ttt Sllad dressing should complement rather than mask the other flavors salad. If the body alrcady contains a dressing, such as a bound salad, 1dressing may not be necessary. green salads are usually dressed by ladling the dreSSing over the it is plated. Alternatively, the individual ingredients can be dressed It they are arranged on the plate. A third method that may be limited by ancacy of the salad but will save precious time during a busy period is 1tplft individual salads on a sheet pan. Then, just before service, mist ..i!h dressing using a spray bollle designated for this purpose; then trans:l!ID to chilled plates using a spatula .
. g composed !)alatb tu chilled plates for servicc.
1Iml" FOR
MAKING CoMPOSED SALIDS
1 .lberall ingredients for the salad and wash, trim, cut, cook, chill or um·jse prepare them as necessary or as called for in the recipe. 1 \lrJnge all ingredients artistically on the plates, dreSSing each ingredient as l:S!l.'d or 3S directed in the recipe. 1 !,tservice time, heal or cook any items that are being served hot and add :k'm to the salad.
697
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 24.5
SAlAD N J(;OISE Yleld: 6 Servings Red wine vinegar Salt and pepper Virgin olive oil Basil leaves, chiffonade Chicory Tomatoes Cucumbers Green beans Eggs, hard-boiled Artichokes Romaine leuuce, large leaves, washed Green bell peppers, baton net Tuna, fresh, grilled and chilled Nh;oise olives
1. Lining a cold salad plate with a
base of lettuce leaves.
4 oz.
120 n~
IT
IT
12 oz. 12 I head
J60mI
6
6 680g 340 g 6 6
l ib. 8 oz. 12 oz.
6 6 12 2 1 lb. 8 oz. 4 oz.
12 I head
12 2
680g 12Q g
1. Make a vinaigreue dressing using the red wine vinegar, sail, pepper. 2.
3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 2. Arranging the remaining
ingredients for the salad.
8.
9.
oil and basil leaves. Wash and dry the chicory. Core and cut each tomato intO 8 wedges. Peel and slice the cucumbers. Trim and cook me green beans al dente. Peel the eggs and cut into wedges. Cook the artichokes. Trim the outer leaves (rom each artichoke lea\in8_ the heart. Remove the choke from the heart and cut each hean intoqwr'lCli Line each cold pla(e with two romaine lettuce leaves, then arrange dumaining ingredients artistically. Use the contrasting shapes, colorsm:lllt tures to create an auraaive presentation. At service, whisk the dressing to combine the ingredientS and fW • proximately 2 1/2 ounces (75 milliliters) over each salad.
Approximate vatues per ,se,viog: Calories 890. To tal rat 70 g, Saturated rat 1[ g. 0J0lc.ifmII. " Sodium 760 mg, Total carbohydrates 21 g. Protein 44 g. Vitamin A [3(}%, Vitamin C ~ IroI
Bound Salads The creative chef can prepare a wide variery of salads by combining ca:ta: meats, poultry, fish, shellfish, potatoes, pasta, grains and/or legufTlt'S 'lim I dressing and garnishes. Although the combinations vary greally, are grouped here because their ingredients are all bound. That is, earn WI consists of one or mo re ingredients held together in a cohesive IIUS.\. ~ binding agent can be either a vinaigrette or mayonnaise-based or similarm. ing, The ingredients should be evenly distributed throughout, and of cohesiveness can range from tightly packed to flaky and easily sepm!to1 TIle foods that can be used to produce bound salads are so varied tlw II impossible to list them aiL Generalizing preparation techniques is also \'t'r) ~ ficult. There are as many ways to prepare a bound salad as there are inptli cnts, dressings and garnishes.
these.
the.
S4JADS AND SAW) DRESSINGS <"'\!\.
Ib.md salads clln be used as the body of a composed salad (for instance, of egg salad on a bed of greens). Some are used in sandwiches bUI as side dishes---for example, tuna or chicken salad. Some are as side dishes bUI not in sandwiches, for example, potato or pasta Follow specific recipes and tl'3ditional uses for each slllad until you are ~t enough in your skills to let your imagination take over.
"'''''',rill'
LPrepJring a salad from cooked foods is a good opponuniry to use leftovers, l:ut he sure they are fresh .md of good quality. The finished sal |
making a bound salad, choose ingredients whose flavors blend well mJ complement each other. j <Mose ingredients for color; a few colorful ingredients will turn a plain
\Jltd into a spectacular one. f, '0 improve appearance, cut all ingredients the same size and sha pe. If the iiUlIl ingredient is diced, then dice the other ingredients. Avoid combining aK't'd, sliced and julienned foods in the same salad. 1 :IJl ingn.:dients should be cut into pieces thllt ;Ire slllall enough to be ealen \'i,ily with a fork. , Be sure all meats, poultry, fish and shellfish are fully cooked before using Mn. Undercooked foods can cmse food -borne illness and spoilage . • ,IjWJy~ chill cooked ingredients well before using them. Warm ingredients promoIe bacteri31 growth, especi311y in mayonnaise-based salads. , \/wa)'s use dreSSings sparingly. They should enhance the fl3vors of the ~ s:abd ingredients, not mask them.
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 24.6
CHUTNEY CHICKEN SAlAD 1<W: Sib. (3.6 kg)
Chicken meal, cooked Ctk'f)', small dice
51b. Boz.
Gft't'n onion, sliced \t.ngo chutney
3 oz,
lu)oonaise -x't'tlles.-; grapes
lib. 12 oz.
12 oz.
2.2 kg 250 g 90g 340 g 500 g 340g
1 Rt'ffi(lI'e any bones, skin and fat from the chicken and cut the meat into luge dice. 1. Comhine the chicken meat, celery, green onions, mango chutney and mllyoon:lI:,C in a bowl; mix well. 1 Cullhe grapes in half. Add them 10 the chicken mixture and lOSS gently to {Ilmi>ine. "m.oll' l'alues per 4-01_ O]6-g) serving: Ca lories 230. Total fat ]4 g. SatUr3ted fal 3 g, ChI)ItIIrroI ~ mg. Sodiu m I}S mg, Total e:rorbohydr3tl'S 4 g, Prote in 22 g
Adding gmpes 10 chicken sal:ld.
699
700
~
CIfAP7'ER 24
Vegetable Salads Vegetable salads are made from cooked or raw vegetables or a conlb;n"'" both. They can be served on buffets, as an appetizer or salad course.. other salads, vegetable salads must successfully combine color, texture vor. Some vegetable salads such as coleslaw and carrot·raisin salad are w ith mayonnaise. Most, however, are made by either marinating the or combining them in a vinaigrette dressing. Almost any vegetable can be successfully marinated. The amount depends on the vegetables and the marinade, but several hours to usually suffiCient for flavors to blend. Soft vegetables such as m~s~:~ chini and cucumbers can be added directly to a cold marinade. bles such as carrots and cauliflower should be blanched in salted freshed , drained and then added to a cold marinade. Carrots, mushrooms, cauliflower, zucchini, pearl onions and the like are simmered quickly in a marinade flavored with lemon juice and olive oil, then served cold. This style is called Ii /a grecque. Many marinated salads will last several days under proper re[,ige.,"•• the salads age in the marinade, they will change in appearance and This mayor may not be desirable. For example, mushrooms and become more flavorful , while green vegetables are discolored by ihe;,rilsi the marinade. If marinated salads are prepared in advance, check pearance as well as their seasonings carefully at service time.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING VEGETABLE SALADS
1. Gather and wash all vegetables. 2. Trim, cut, shred or otherwise prepare the vegetables as desired or as directed in the recipe. 3. Blanch or cook the vegetables if necessary. 4. Combine the vegetables with the marinade or dressing. Adjust the seasonings.
============ ~ ===========I RECIPE 24.7
T OMATO AND AsPARAGUS
SAlAD
WIlli FRESH MOZZAllE1L4 Yield: 6 Servings Asparagus Vinaigrette DreSSing (Recipe 24.1) Tomatoes Leaf lettuce Fresh mozzarella Basil leaves
2 lb. 1 pt.
1 kg 450 ml
6
6
1 head 12 oz.
1 head 340 g 12
12
,nc' """"'.
1. Trim and blanch the asparagus in salted water. Refresh, drain in 8 ounces (250 grams) of the vinaigrelte dressing for approximate~ minutes. 2. Remove the core and cut each tomato into 6 wedges. 3. Clean the lettuce and separate the leaves. 4. Slice the mozzarella imo 18 slices.
.wADSANDStLWDRf$lNGS
cw the basillea\'es chiffonade. Alnnge the tomatoes, cheese and asparagus on plates using the lettuce as a b:ose. Pour on the remaining dressing and garnish with the basil. values per sefVing' Calorie!! 410, TolaJ fat 32 g, Satu rated fat 9 g, Chole51erol 35 mg, )10 mg, Total carbohydrates 11 g, Protein 19 g, Vitamin A 2CIlIl, Vitamin C J 10%, Cal·
are so many different fruits with beautiful bright colors and sweet delithat preparing fruit salads is easy work. Fruit salads are a readdition to buffets and can be selVed as the first course of a lunch or more elaborate fruit salad can be seIVed as a light lunch. Al9."3YS prepare fruit salads as dose to seIVice time as possible. The flesh of ~-pes of fruit becomes soft and translucent if CUI long before seIVice. fruits tum brown in a matter of minutes after cutting. Refer to Chapter , for more information on Ihis browning reaction and for information frui15. Fruit salad recipes are found at the end of that chapter. i salad is dressed at all, the dressing is usually sweet and made with , or )"ogult mixed with fruit juices or purees. Alternatively, Grand creme de menthe or other liqueurs sprinkled over the salad can seIVe ~lIm';ng. Fruit salads can be tossed or comfXJsed. Either should offer the a pleasing blend of colors, shapes, sizes, flavors and textures. f\a\'OO
be a small pan of a meal or the entire meal. There are many slyles and a seemingly endless variely of foods can be used to prepare Salads are extremely fXJpular, especially with those interested in lighter alternatives. You can tempt these diners by determining the appropriate the salads and skillfully combining the main ingredients and dressing a delicious and appealing balance of colors, textures and flavors.
FOR DISCUSSION ..n-, !arne st'\'eral factors ThaT will cause salad greens to wilt or deteriorate.
lo.""I
10.""1«1,, procedure for making mayonnaise. How Cdn the flavor of a be altered? what happens to the ingredients when an emulsion "breaks. ~ How C2lI il sometimes be repaired? 11Io",~" typical bound salad. How does a bound salad differ from a cRssed salad? fire ways salads can be presented or offered on a menu. BI)'OIInaise
~
701
702 '""" CHAPl1iR 24
SAlAD
DDmONAL
RECIPES .n-,
RECIPE 24.8
SEAFOOD SAlAD No", 70s dish '"""" in .. 0>apI..- {f!ening ~opb.
GOTIlM1 BAR AND GRill, NEW YORK, NY
CbeflOwner Alfred Portale Yield: 4 SeiVings
Lobster, 1 lb. 8 oz. (680 g)
1
1
Court bouillon
4 qt. 4 oz. 3 oz.
4 It
Sea scallops Squid, cleaned
Mussels, debearded Avocado
Frisee Baby red oak Shallot, finely minced Fresh basil, chopped Fresh chives, finely minced Fresh Italian parsley, chopped Lemon Vinaigreue (recipe follows) Salt and white pepper
12 1 I head 1 head
2 Tbsp. 1 lbsp. 1 lbsp. I lbsp. as needed IT
120 g 90g 12 1 1 head 1 head
30m! 15 ml 15 mI
15 mI as needed IT
1. Boil the lobster in the coun bouillon, then chill it. Remove the meal the shell; dice it. Z. Poach the sea scallops and squid in the same court bouillon. C
3. Steam the mussels in a portion of the coun. bouillon. meat from the shells. 4. Peel, pit, quarter and thinly slice the ripe avocado. 5. Wash and dry the greens. 6: Toss the shellfish with the shallots, herbs and a portion of the vinai Dress the lettuces and avocado. 7. Season all with salt and white pepper. Arrange the lettuces, shellfish fanned avocado on four plates. Approximate values per saving: Calorie!! 600, Total fal 34 g, Satunlled fat 3.5 g, CboItsI!nl mg. SodIum 1790 mg, To tal cuboh}'dnle!! II g, Protein 63 g. Vitamin A ~ rrtaalit( Iron .015%
LEMON VINAIGRElTE
Yield: 14 oz. (400 ml) Dijon-style mustard Salt and white pepper Red wine vinegar Extra virgin olive oil Lemon juice Cayenne pepper
1 tsp.
5m!
IT loz. iO oz.
IT
loz.
30m! 300 m! 6Om!
pinch
pinch
SAWJSANDSAWJDR$SINGS """
Ibisk together the mustard, salt, white pepper and red wine vinegar. biy whisk in the olive o il . ~ the acidity with the lemon juice and add a pinch of cayenne. ~ I'2Iues per I-oz. (3G.mO .serving' Calories ttKJ, ToW fal 20 g, Saturated rat 2.5 g, Cho.... O~ Sodlum 170 mg, Total carbohydrata I g, ProCein 0 g, CIaims--no cOOIesterol; no
~
t========== ~ ============ RECIPE 24.9
RAsPBERRY VINAIGRE1TE 8 oz. B oz.
Garlic, minced
Ilbsp.
Ibley
4 oz. 8 oz.
250 ml 250 ml 45 ml 15 ml 15 ml 15 ml 15 ml 120 g 250 g
12 oz. I pt.
350 mI 450 mI
led wine vinegar vinegar Lemon juice Ikied thyme loh I(e wine
3 Thsp. 1 Thsp. 1 Thsp.
r.ppe,
1 Thsp.
Iaspberry preseIVes, without seeds Qn'e oil
SoIadoil
'lhisk together the vinegars, lemon juice, thyme, salt, pepper and garlic. Whisk in the honey and raspberry preserves. biy whisk in the oils, emulsifying the dressing . •
_~ values per l-oz. (3(}-ml) scrving' CaIorlc!l 130, loul fal 12 g, Saturated fal l g, Cho~ 0 mg, Sodium 140 mg. Total carbohydrates 5 g. Prote in 0 g, Claims---no cholesterol
t========== ~ ============ RECIPE 24.10
FAT-FREE RAsPBERRY VINAIGRETTE YIcI! I pc. (450 ml) Ibspberry vinegar fIooose' G2rlic, minced brestershire sauce Dipn-Sl)'Je mUSJard leIoon juice
"'"
Sak 3nd pepper
4 OZ, t Thsp.
I esp. 2 lSp. I lbsp.
2 oz. 8 oz. IT
120 mJ IS mJ 5 ml 10 ml 15 ml 30m)
250 ml IT
'Chisk 311 ingredienes together.
. .""'~ nIue:s per l-oz. (30.011) scrvil\g: CaJo ries 10. Total fal 0 g, S:Uu n.l¢d fal 0 g. Choles· ~Q ~ Sodlum 50 mg, Total carboh ydrlltc:s 2 g, Protein 0 g, CWms-/"at free; low sodium;
1'-"'"
p.x
Is ~ natur;llIy OCUlrrillg ~imple sugar; it is readily available as a white gr:mulat¢d powder.
703
704
("'!a.
CHAPTER 24
============ ~ ========= RECIPE 24. 11
BAlSAMIC AND ROASTED GARLIC VINAlGREm Yield: I 1/2 pc (750 ml)
Garlic doves Balsamic vinegar Dijon mustard Olive oil Sal! and pepper
12
12
8 oz. I Thsp. 14 oz. IT
250 ml 15 mI 420 ml IT
1. Roast the garlic in a 350°F (I80°C) oven umil soft, golden brown:md6lgrant. Peel the garlic cloves and mash them CQ.Lrsely in a mixing 00II1 2. Add the vinegar and mllstard, whisking to incorporate. \X'hisk in the ~ oil and season with salt and pepper. Approximate values per l--oz. (3(}.ml) .serving: Calories 150, Total fal 17 g. Saturated fat 2; Q1i1. te ro! 0 mg, Sodium 8 mg, Total carbohydrates I g, Protein 0 g.. Oal ms-no cholesterol;"~
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 24. 12
RED
O NION VINAlGRE1TE
Yield: I pl. (450 g) Walnut oil Champagne vinegar Granulated sugar Salt and pepper Red onions, sliced thin
8 oz. '" oz. 1 Thsp. IT 8 oz.
2;0 ml 120 n~
15 ml IT 2;0 g
1. Whisk together the oil, vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper. 2. Blanch the onions for a few seconds in boiling water. Drain thorough/) 3. Add the onions to the oil mixwre and allow the dressing to rest for Sl'I"t1l hours so that the flavors blend. Approximate >':llues per l--oz. (3O.ml) .serving: Calories 140, TObl fat 1,1 g, SalUl":lted fat l S,!. at Icsleroi 0 mg, Sodium 3S mg.. TObl carboh yd ntes 2 g, Protc in 0 g, Clalms-no ~ sodium
============ ~ ========== REcrPE 24 .13
CAESAR DRESSING A tradftiolla/ Caesar sa/ad is made witb romaille lellllce, croulons. Parmesan and a ricb dressing flavored witb garliC alld (lIICbOIJies. 1bt dressing is sometimes prepared and lossed wilb the olber ingredient> tableside, bllt tbis /()()(I processor metbod is llse/ul when larger qllOllIitJes (Ire needed. Yield: 2 ql. (2 It)
Garlic, chopped
Eggs
1 Thsp.
15 ml
2
2
Parme&1n, grated
4 oz.
120 g
S4LillS AND SAW) DRESSINGS c""2\..
2 oz. 2 oz. 1 lbsp. 1 lbsp. 1 oz. 1 lbsp. 1 tSp. 12 oz. 12 oz.
lalsamic vinegar kd'A1ne vinegar -grain muslard ~style mustard _yfill", iii
'w<
~leoil
ail"e oil
6Om! 60ml 15 m! 15 ml 30g 15 m! 5m! 340m! 340m!
the ~r1ic, eggs, cheese, vinegars, mustards, anchovies, salt and pepper in the bowl of a food processor and process until smoOlh, approxlnalely I minute, I"rththe machine running slowly, begin adding the oils to form an emulsion. Continue until all the oil is incorporated. :..._ ","" per ]--OZ. (30-g) serving, Calories] 10, Total fat II g, SalUraloo fat 2 g, COOles.", .. SOdJ"m ]70 mg. TotaJ carbohyd ra tes 0 g. Protein 1 g
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 24. 14
SAUCE 6RIB/CHE Y
IbJd.rooked egg yolks ~ and pepper Dipl·style mustard OOwoil 1bite wine vinegar Comichons, chopped (J~rs, chopped fresh mixed herbs such as parsley, chervil, tarragon or chives, chopped
4
4
IT
IT
Ilbsp. 1 112 pI. 3 oz. loz. 1 lbsp.
15 ml 700 ml 9Om! 30 g 15 m!
1 oz.
30 g
Blend the egg yolks with the salt, pepper and mustard. . slowly, as if for mayonnaise, whisk in the olive oil. Occasionally, add 3 ' drops of vinegar to thin the sauce. J Add the comichons, capers and herbs; mix well. Adjust the seasonings and acidity with the remaining vinegar.
I ••• "
V".\1uc:s p<.-r ].-oz. GO-g) serving: Calor1aJ 190, TotaJ fat 21 g, Saturated fat 3 g, Choles-
SodIum 95 mg. Total carbohydrates 0 g. Protein I g
1======= ~ ======== RECIPE 24. 15
THOUSAND I SlAND DRESSING yttld: 1 ql. (I It)
Red wine vinegar ~gar
Mayonnaise
1 lbsp. I1bsp. 1 pi.
15 ml 15 ml 450 ml Conlinlled
705
706
~
CHAPrER 24
Ketchup Sweet pickle relish Hard-cooked eggs, chopped Fresh parsley, chopped Green onions, chopped Salt and pepper Worcestershire sauce
8 oz. 6 oz.
250 g
4 2 Tbsp.
4 30 rul
1 bunch TI TI
I bunch TI IT
ISO g
1. Combine the vinegar and sugar; stir to dissolve the sugar. 2, Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. 3. Adjust the seasonings with the salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce. Approximate I';llues per 1-07.. (3O-g) serving, Calories 120, Total fal II g, Saruralw f~1 2 g. a.a. lerol 35 mg, Sodium 270 mg, Total carbohydrates 4 g, Protein I g
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 24.16
GREEN GODDESS DRESSING Yield: 1 qt. (l It) Fresh parsley Mayonnaise Sour cream Garlic, chopped Anchovy fillets, minced Fresh chives, chopped Fresh tarragon, chopped Lemon juice Red wine vinegar Salt and white pepper Worcestcrshire sauce
1 oz. 1 pt. 12 oz. 1 Thsp. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 Thsp. 1 oz. I oz. TI TI
30 g 450 ml 340 g 15 ml
30 g 30 g 15 ml
30 ml 30 ml IT IT
a
1. Rinse and chop the parsley, but do not dry it or you will remove some the chlorophyll. 2. Combine all the ingredients and mix well. Season to taste with salt, wlljr pepper and Worcestershire sauce.
Approximate values per [-oz. (3O.g) serving, Calories SO. TOIaI fal 8 g. Sarnratw fat 2.S So CboD tcrol 10 mg. Sodium 125 mg, TOIaI carbohrdrales I g, Protein 1 g
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 24. 17
ROQUEFORI DRESSING Yield: 1 qt. (I It) Mayonnaise Red wine vinegar Sour cream Buttermilk Garlic, chopped Worcestershire sauce Tabasco sauce
8 oz. I oz. 8 oz. 4 oz. I {Sp. I tsp. TI
250 g 30ml 250 g 120m] Sm! 5m! IT
SWJJS AND SALW DREJIA'GS <""'a.
IT 12 oz.
'''l"''''",crumbled
IT
340 g
all the ingredients except the Roquefort and mix well. crumbled Roquefort and combine. ,....
"h~
per I-m.. (3().g) st'T\'ing: Calories li e, ToUl (al 10 g. Saturated (al " g. CholesSodIum 240 mg. Total Olrbohydrale5 I g. ProCcin 3 g
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 24. 18
Low-FAT BLUE CHEESE DRESSING 20 oz. 6 oz.
560 g
I'hite pepper
4 oz. 1/4 ~p.
Ixcestershire sauce Dry mustard Tabasco sauce
IT 1 {Sp. IT
120 g I ml IT 5 ro! IT
JDw·fat IJr cheese, crumbled
170ml
Combine all the ingredients in the bowl of a mixer or food processor and pocess until smooth. vallle:S per \ .()Z. (30-10 serving: Calories 25, Total {al I g, SalUraled fat .5 g. Choles~.::~~~~:,~,mg, Tow carbo hydrates 2 g. Protein 2 g, Cbilm--low fal ; low cholc:;tcrol,
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 24 .19
S UN-DRIED TOMATO AND BASIL MOLl Gar\ic doves, mashed to a paste fig )'oIks 1tmon juice Olive oil ~-
4 4 21bsp. 1 1/2 pI.
4 oz. 4 Thsp. 1 tsp. 1/2 tsp.
4 4 30ml 700m] 120 g 60ml 5 ml 2 ml
Lt»rnrn,le the garlic, egg yolks and a few drops of the lemon juice in a 00110'1 and whip until frOlhy. While whipping the egg yolk mixture, slowly add the olive oil until an emulsion begins to form. Continue adding the oil while whipping until all !be oil is incorporated. A few drops of lemon juice may be added from line to time to thin the sauce. Co llfitllled
707
708
~
CfiAP7'ER 24 j. Finely chop the sun-dried tomatoes. Add them, a pollion of the
which they were packed, and the basil to the aIoli. 4. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice.
oIil'c
IiI l.'".
Approxinute values per i-()2. (V-g) serving: Calories 200, To tal ral 21 g, Saturated len,)1 25 mg, Sodium 80 mg, To tal carbohydrales 3 g, Protein 1 g, Vilamin A 20'16
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 24 .20
TARTAR SAUCE Yield: 1 pC (500 ml)
Mayonnaise Capers, chopped Sweet pickle relish Onion, minced Fresh parsley, minced Lemon juice Salt Worcestershire sauce Tabasco sauce
SOOmi
1 pt. 2 oz.
60 g
3 oz.
90g
2Thsp. 2 Thsp. IThsp. 1T 1T 1T
JOml JOml 15 ml 1T 1T 1T
1. Stir all the ingredients together until well blended. Chillthc)fOl)ghly ~b serving. Approximate v~l ues per 1 -o~. (3O..g) serving: Calories 220. Total rat 23 g, S...n , ,d I~ ' , te rol 20 mg, SOdi um 420 mg, Total carbo hydrates 2 g, Prolein 0 g
a..
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 24 .21
GARLIC CROUTONS FOR SAlADS Yield: I lb. 4 oz. (550 g)
Whole buner Garlic, chopped French or sourdough bread cubes Parmesan, grated Dried basil Dried oregano
6 oz. 1 lbsp. lib. 8 oz. l oz. 2 tsp . 2 tsp.
UIOg 15 ml 700 g
JOg 10 ml 10 ml
1. Melt the butter in a small saucepan and add the garlic. Cook the the buner for 5 minutes. 2. Place the bread in a bowl, add the Parmesan and herbs, j. Pour the garlic buner over the bread cubes and immediately toss combine. 4, Spread the bread cubes on a sheet pan in a single layer and bake at (I80°C). Stir the croutons occasionally and cook until dry and . browned, approximately 15 minutes. Approximate values per 1-07.. GO-g) serving: Calories 200. Total fat 9 g. Sarurated I':it 5 g, terol 20 mg, SOdium 390 mg, Total carboh)'drates 25 g, Prolein 5 g. Iron 10%, CalcIum lil'IrI
S4W.lS' AND SWJ) DRESSINGS ~
RECIPE 24.22
WILTED SPINACH SAlAD
Wlm ROASTED PEPPERS GRt:E.~
RFsrAURANT, &.'1 FItA.'i(lSC(), CA ExeclltiL'e ChefArmie Someroifle
ltld: Zlarge or 4 small Servings kd or rellow bell pepper, medium
Enr.! \·irgin olive oil I.Jk and pepper Red onion, sliced thin Baguette, thin slices for croutons Spinach Frisee or escarole Rlls3mic vinegar GJrOC clore, chopped fine ~ or Gaeta olives, pitted hnnesI.n, grated
1
3 oz.
90 ml
IT 2 oz.
IT
12 1 lb.
12 450 g
1 head 31bsp.
1 head 45 ml
1
1
10
10
1 oz.
109
60g
L Roast, peel and cut the pepper into 1/4-inch (6-millimeter) strips. Toss the ~ strips with 1/2 tablespoon (8 milliliters) of olive oil and a few pinches of salt and pepper. Set aside to marinate. l Corer the onion slices with cold water to leach the strong onion flavor. Set
"'"
Place the baguette slices on a baking sheet and brush them lightly with om·eoil. Toast in a 375°F 090°C) oven until crisp and lightly browned, approxim:nely 5 minutes. t Stem, wash and dry the spinach. Trim the stem end of the frisee or escarole and discard the tough outer leaves. Wash and dry. l Drain the onions. In a large bowl, combine the vinegar, garlic, 1/2 tealpoon (2 milliliters) salt and a few pinches of pepper. Add the greens, OOions, peppers and olives. , Heat the remaining olive oil in a small pan until it is very hot and JUS! below the smoking point. Immediately pour it over the salad and toss "i!h a pair of metal tOngs to coat and wilt the leaves. Sprinkle on the Pannes:lO. ' ..~dd Ihe croutons and serve immediately. j
e Y,I!ues per serving: Calorie!! 690. Total fal 51 g. Saturaled fal 9 g. Cholesterol 10 mg. II6IIa 1I/"lJ mg, Toul carbohydraldl 39 g, ProIcln 17 g. Vitamin A l 6I:M. Vitamin C 22Q%, CaJ· .. .
lron ~
709
710
~
CJIAPTfJl 24
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 24 .23
COUNTRY-SlYLE TOMATO AND CUCUMBER SAUD MANGO RFSTAURM'T, QuCAOO, Il
CbejS/etJ(m Chillppetti
Yield: 2 Servings I3read Fresh tomato, diced Seedless cucumber, peeled :md diced Basil, chiffonade Red wine vinegar Olive oil Salt and pepper
4 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz. I oz. 1/ 4 c. 1/4 c. 1T
120 g 120 g 120 g 30 g
60 1111 60ml 1T
1. Remove and discard the bre:ld crusts; cut the bread into the same siz~ di:t
as the tomato. Rinse the bread under water 10 remove some of the slllrch. Squeeze u:i all the waler is removed. 3. In a medium-sized bowl, combine the tomato, cucumber, bread. basiI.mI vinegar. leI set for 5 minutes 10 allow the bread to absorb some ci dr vinega r. 4. Add Ihe olive oil and season with salt and pepper. 2.
Approximate values per serving: CaJorleJ 480. TouJ fal 30 g, S:uur:ued fal 4.5 g, Choblcol .. Sodium 310 mg, TOlal carbohydl'1llC8 ~2 g, Prote in 9 g, VItamin A 20%, Vltamln C4;%, CaIdII
40%.
Claims-no cholesterol; high fiber
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 24 .24
GRILLED SECKEL PEAR SAUD
WI11J SHERRY BACON VINAlGRE1TB FLYING FISH, SEATT1.f, WA CbefOul1Ier Cbrisfille Kef[
Yield: 6 Servings
--
Thick bacon Sherry vinegar Sugar Extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper Frisee Seckel pears While wine Water Cinnamon sticks Star anise, whole Reduced balsamic vinegar Parsnip chips
10 strips I TI)Sp. 1/2 c.
10 slrips 60 rnl 15 ml 120 ml
1T
1T
6 heads 12 I pI. I pt. 2
6 heads 12 500mi 500 ml 2
4
4
114 c.
60z, ISO rnl as needed for garnish
StlAill' AND SAlAD DRE5SJNCS ~ prepare
the dressing, dice the bacon and render it in a large skillet. off {he faJ , reserving 1/4 cup (60 milliliters) for the dressing. cooked bacon, sherry vinegar and sugar in a mixing bowl. Slowly . in the olive oil, then the bacon fal. Season with salt and pepper. the cores from the frisee, rinse under cold WaleT and separate the pears in half and remove the cores.
rmg the wine, water, cinnamon and anise to a slow rolling boil in a sauce JIll. Add the pe:lr halves and po.1ch just until Ihe pears are slightly soft, woxim:lIely 5 (0 10 minutes. Remove the pears from the poaching liquid nI set aside.
before selVice, grill the pears on a very hot grill. Toss the pears with fri.see and the dressing. Mound the salad on serving plates and drizzle .m the reduced balsamic vineg:lf. Garnish with parsnip chips and serve. _~ ,,,,., pt.'!
scJVi ns' Calo ries 439. TObl fat 25 g. Saturall'd fat 4 g. Cholesterol 9 Illg.
mg, Total carbohydr.Ues 56 g. Protein 5 g
F===== ~ ====== RECIPE 24.25
Su.w
OF AHI TUNA SEARED WITH LAVENDER AND
PEPPER WITH WHOLE-GRAIN Mus'DIRIJ SAUCE FET/.£R VINEYARDS,
IIOI'IAND,
CA
Ctllinary Director john Ash
YrId: 8 St.">J'Vings, 3 oz. (90 g) tuna and I oz. (30 g) greens each ul'eIlder-pcpper coating: CoolS{' sea salt Whole black peppercorns Whole fennel seeds While peppercorns Dried lavender nowers ..w tuna, a solid 3-in. 05-cm) -square piece, well trimmed Olire oil MUS!aro sauce; Whole-grain mustard Olireoil Mustard seeds, toaSled Rice wine vinegar Sugar or honey lllby 8"""' Edible flowers
I 1/ 2 tsp. 2 tsp. 2 lsp. I tsp. 1 1/2 tsp.
7m1 10 ml 10 ml 5 ml 7 ml
1 lb. 8 oz. 3 Thsp.
700 g 45 ml
2 oz. 60g 1 oz. 30 g I !Sp. 5 ml IISp. 5ml I ISp. 5ml 8 oz. 250 g as needed for garnish
L l'sing a mortar and pestle or a rolling pin. crush the ingredients for the hl'i.'I'Kler-pcpper coating. 1 )jgh~y oil the tuna with 2 teaspoons (10 milliliters) of olive oil; coat lightly and eyenly with the lavender-pepper mixture. Heat the remaining oil in a limet 10 just smoking and quickly sear the tuna on all sides. This should no! take more than 2 minutes. Immediately chiUthe seared tuna. CO llfinued
~
7JJ
712
~
C/~24
3. Mi.x the ingredients for the mustard sauce. Set aside. 4. To selVe, thinly slice the lUna into 3 or 4 medallions per serving. Armf on a chilled plate with baby greens and a small dollop of the Il\ISII sauce. Garnish with edible flowers. Approxinute values per serving: CaIorie$ tIKI, Total fat 10 So Satur.attd fal 1.5 g, C/JoI$mJIJi" Sodium 570 mg, To w carbohydrales 3 g, ProIein 20 So vtumin C t5'lo
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 24.26
VINE-RIPENED TOMATO SAlAD GREENS RFSfAURANT, SAN FRA.'iClSCO, CA Executive ChefAnnie Someroflle
Yield: 4 Servings Vine-ripened tomatoes Cherry tomatoes Mixed baby greens Salt and pepper Cucumber, sliced on bias Extra virgin olive oil Red wine vinegar
4 heads
450 g 250ml 4 heads
IT I
IT I
3 Thsp. 2 Thsp.
45 mI 30ml
lib. 1/ 2 pt.
1. Core the vine-ripened tomatoes and cut imo wedges or thick slices. Pbi the stems from the cherry tomatoes; leave whole if small or cut in luff
large. 2. Wash the mixed baby greens and dry. Spread the greens on plates (1'1
selVing platter and arrange the vine-ripened tomatoes O\'er them. Sprirli the tomatoes with salt and pepper. 3. Garnish the tomatoes with cucumber slices. 4, Drizzle on the olive oil; follow with a light drizzle of vinegar. 5. Sprinkle the cherry tomatoes over the salad. Approximate values per serving: Calories 190. Total fal II g, Salurated fal 1.5 g, Cholcsltrol~. Sodiu m 6SQ mg, Tow carbo hydrates 17 g, Protein 5 g, Vitamin A 35%. Vitamin C 14OK, cw.no cholesterol; good sOl.m:e of fiber
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 24.27
COBB SAlAD Yield: 8 Entree SelVings Romaine lettuce Green leaf lettuce Watercress Avocados Bacon slices Roquefort, crumbled Turkey breast, roasted, julienne Tomato, concassee Eggs, hard-cooked, chopped Dijon mustard vinaigrette
8 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz. 4 16 lib. I lb. I lb. 4 24 oz.
2;0 g 120 g 120 g 4 16 4;0 g 4;0 g 4;0 g 4 700ml
.w..tDSANDStlADDRESS1NGS ~
, wash and dlY the lenuces. Pick over and wash the watercress. and cut the avocados imo wedges. III:< [he, bacon and cook in a saute pan until crisp. Remove and drain well. the salad greens together and arrange each of the garnishes on top in II artistic fashion. a simple vinaigrette dressing using Dijon mustard; serve on the values per serving: Calories 1000. Total fat 84 g, Saturated fat 18 g. Cholesterol 215 1n0 mg. Total carboh)'drates 21 g. Protrin 40 g, Vitamin A 45%. Vitamin C 60%. Cal·
"'"
-
RECIPE 24.28
GREEK SAlAD Plrr:i virgin olive oil lanon juice Ird wine vinegar Garlic, minced PMh oregano, chopped Oxumber
r.a
4 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. l isp. 1 Thsp. 2 12 oz. 1 lb. 1 oz. 1 bunch
120 ml 60 ml 60 ml 10 ml 30 ml 2 350 g 450 g
/lr.-es, kalamata or OIher Greek variety Frtsh parsley, chopped Green onions, sliced I'
IT
IT
Ioolaine lenuce Aochovy fillets Tcxnatoes, rut into 6 wedges
I head 8 3
1 head 8 3
30g 1 bunch
To make the dreSSing, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, vinegar, prlic and oregano. Peel the cucumber and slice in half lengthwise. Remove the seeds and cut ito batonnet. Dice or crumble the feta into small pieces. Canbine the olives, cucumbers, chopped parsley and green onions in a bo9.1 and add the dressing. Toss to combine and season to taste with peppe<.
line plates or a planer with the romaine lettuce leaves. Add the olive-cucumber mixture and sprinkle on the feta cheese. Garnish as desired with IIr anchovies and (omato wedges. V1Iues per 6-oz. (lSO-g) serving: Calories 280, To tal fat 24 g. Salur;Ued fat 7 g, (bo... "" Sodium 9(Xl mg. Total carbohydrates 9 g. Protein 7 g. Vlwnin A I5%, Vitamin C p' '''_2~ Iron
15%
713
714 ....".
CIWW/ 24
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 24.29
WARM lAMB SAlAD WITH BOURBON ViNAlGREl'1I Yield: 4 Servings
uUllb loin, eye only Salt and pepper
1 IT
1 IT
Olive oil
15 ml 8 4 2 heads 2 2mJ
Radicchio
1 Thsp. 8 4 2 heads
Garlic doves, chopped
2
Fresh rosemary, chopped Whole buller Bourbon Balsamic vinegar Mustard seeds Orange supremes
1/2 ISp. 2 oz. 4 oz. 2oz. 1 (Sp.
New potatoes Green onions
24
608 120 ml
60 "~ S ml 24
1. Cui the lamb loin into 4 ponions and tie each piece so that it retains shape during cooking. 2. Season the lamb with sail and pepper. Saute it in the olive oil. T""",. a 350°F (I80°C) oven and finish to medium rare. j. Steam the new potatoes until tender but still finn
4. Cut the green onions on the bias. 5. Separate the radicchio leaves from the heads. (i To make the dressing, saute the garlic and rosemary in the buner browning. Whisk in the bourbon, vinegar and mustard seeds, seas",,'" salt and pepper and keep hot. 7. Remove the twine and slice each portion of lamb into 6 slices. polmoes (0 the same thickness as the lamb. 8. Using the radicchio as the base, arrange the sliced potatoes, I'm..... '"ge ,uprcmes 0" the plate. Sprinkle with the gree" 0";0",. dressing over all the ingredients.
Drizzk.
Appro)tirna!e VlII1ues per serving: CaJorics 300. Total fat 17 g. Satunued fat 8 g. Chok$tm)l lO .. Sodium 680 mg, Total carbo hydrates 27 g, Protei ... 8 g, Vitamin A It:m, Calcium l~
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 24.30
AsIAN CHICKEN SAlAD Y;eld, 31b. (1.4 kg) Rice vinegar Soy sauce, reduced sodium Sugar Fresh ginger, minced White pepper Chicken breast, boneless, skinless Ses.1me oil Snow peas CaITOl, julienne
6 oz. 4 oz.
180m) 120m)
21bsp.
30ml 45 ml 5ml 680 8 30ml 120 8 120 8
31bsp. I tsp. lib. 8 oz. I oz. 4 oz. " oz.
S1WlS' AND SillD DRESSINGS
4 oz, 4 oz. 21bsp.
120 g 120g 30 ml
make me dressing, combine the vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, ginger and liq>eppec. Set aside, chicken breast into strips approximately 112 x 1/2 x 3 inches (1.2 x 8 centimeters). Stir-fry the chicken in the sesame oil until done. Rethe pan, cool and refrigerate. vegetables in salted water. Refresh and drain welL the chicken with the vegetables and the dressing; add the Toss and serve. -:.;!~::~4-0::~Z.• (l20-g) serving: Calorie! 160, Total fat 4.5 g, Saturated fat 1 g, Choles. Itl , Total carbohydrate$ 10 g, Protein 19 g, Vitamin A 25%, Vitamin C 15%
=
= = = = """",", = = = = = = RECIPE 24.3 1
NEW POTA:fO SAlAD WlnI MUSTARD AND DIU ; lb. (2.2 kg)
4 lb. 4 oz. 4 oz,
pepper, julienne pepper, julienne , julienne julienne
I 112 tsp. 1T I 1/2 tsp. 2 Thsp. 2 Thsp. I I 6 oz. 4 oz.
1.8 kg 120g 120 g 7ml 1T 7ml
30m! 30 ml I I 180 g 120 g
. !he potatoes in salted water until done but still firm. Chill well and
CLll
the mayonnaise, sour cream, garlic, salt, pepper, dill and Dijonlyle mustard; mix well. i all the ingredients and adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper. ....,,'"" per 4.oz, (l2().g) serving: Calories 110, Tow fat 6 g, Saturated fat t5 g, ChoSodlum 360 mg, Toul carboh}'drate$ 12 g, Protein I g, Vitamin C 25%
=== = = = """"'"' = = = = = = RECIPE 24.32
POTATO SAlAD lb. 8 0'. (3 kg) 4 lb.
1.8 kg
6
6
8 oz.
250 g Continued
("'!l\,
7I5
7I 6
'"""
CIIAJTI1iR 24
Green onions, sliced Radishes, chopped coarse Mayonnaise Oijoo-style mustard
I bunch
1 bunch
6 oz.
180 g 450g
I lb. 2 oz. l oz. IT
Fresh parsley, chopped Salt and pepper
60g JOg IT
1. Boil the potatoes in sailed water until nearly cooked. Drain !he pooI)1 spread them on a sheet pan and refrigerate until cold. 2. Peel and cut the cold potatoes inl0 large dice.
3. Peel and chop the eggs. 4. Combine all the ingredients and adjust the seasonings with sal! and JlfWII ApPl"Qximate values per +Oz. (l2:}g) serving, Calories 200, Total {at ]6 g, SalUraifd 61 3, at lo terol 6s mg, Sodium 390 mg, Total carbohydrates II g. Protein 3 g, Vitamin C 1;1'
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 24.33
CREAMY COLESlAW NOTE:
'Ibis dish a{Pt«rS mthe Pork aapter q"Jeningpbologropb.
Yield: 2 lb. (I kg)
Mayonnaise Sour cream or creme fraiche Sugar
Cider vinegar Garlic dove, minced Green cabbage, shredded Red cabbage, shredded Carrot, shredded Salt and white pepper
Soz. 4 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz.
250g 120 g JOg 30ml
I
I
lib. 8 oz.
4 oz.
450 g 250 g 120 g
IT
IT
1. Combine the mayonnaise, sour cream or creme fraiche , sugar, vinegar a:t garlic in a bowl; whisk together. 2. Add the shredded cabbages and carrots to the dressing and mix well.Stt son to taste with salt and pepper. Approximate values per 4-(1z. ( 120"g) serving: Calories 200. TotaJ fal 19 g. ~ruraled fll ~j g. 1WIo lerol 20 mg. SOdium 340 mg, Tow carbohydrale5 8 g, Prolein I 8, Vitamin A 2I:M, \1W11i1C Iro
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 24.34
COUSCOUS SAlAD Yield, 3 lb. (J.4 kg)
Couscous 6 0z. Red bell pepper, medium dice I Green bell pepper, medium dice Green onions, sliced on the bias 1 bunch Cucumbers, peeled, seeded, medium dice 6 oz. Black olives, pitted 4 oz. Red onion, julienne 6 oz.
180g I
1 bunch 180 g 120 g 180 g
WADSANDSAL4IJDRESSJNCS ~
!kessing: Orange juice concentrate
3 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. 1 tsp. 1 tsp. 1 tsp. 2 tsp. 3 oz. 1 oz. 2 tsp.
"'!OCt,"vinegar
Garlic, chopped Salt Ptppe< Fresh oregano, chopped SJlad oU Honey
Fresh thyme, chopped
!,",m "h'
90ml 60ml 60ml 5ml 5 ml 5 ml 10 ml
90 ml 109 10 ml
couscous until tender; set aside to cool.
~ uxnb;ne the couscous with the vegetables.
together all the dressing ingredients. 'I """';ne the salad ingredients with the dressing. Chill thoroughly before \':liues per Wz. (SI-g) serving, Calorle5 90. Total fat 6 g, Saruratcd fat .s g, Cholcs· ..... ",,"~ 200 mg, Total carbohydratcs 7 g, Protein I So Vitamin C 35%, Claim$-k)w no cboIesIerol
F====== ~ ======= RECIPE 24 .35
BREAD SAlAD WIIJ)A.OWER BREAD COMPANY, ScoTrsDALE, Kl
y"rlI: 20 s.oz. (240-g) Servings
Crusty bread, cut into I-in . (2.5--cm) cubes Tomatoes, diced fresh basil, chopped fresh parsley, chopped Red bell peppers, diced Mushrooms, marinated Garlk, chopped Garlic salt lemon pepper om'eoil kd wine vinegar PaJsley, chopped Parmesan, grated
1 gal.
41t
21 oz.
630 g
2 112 oz. 2 1/2 oz. 5 oz. 5 oz. 2 tsp.
75 g 75 g
IT IT
IT IT
150g 150 g 10 mI
5 oz.
ISO ml 3 112 oz. 105 ml as needed for garnish as needed for garnish
L Spread the bread cubes out on a sheet pan and allow them 10 dry at room ten1per.1lUre for 3 to 4 hours. \li.~ the remaining ingredients together in a large bowl until everything is ro-enly distributed. J Toss the bread cubes into the salad and coat them well with the salad liquid. Ser.·e at room temperature, garnished with a light sprinkle of chopped paISley and grated Parmesan. ~lt
Vlllues per !kJz. (225·g) scrving: CaJorics 452, Total fat 10 g, Saturated fat 2 g, Cho-
.iliad 1 mg, Sodium t566 mg, To tal carbohydrates 78 g, Protein 12 g, Vitamin A 31%. Vitamin ' p>. 1roII 41%
717
HAPTER
25
====== After studying this chapter, you will be able to: ("\!\"
~ ~ t"'0..
identify a variety of fruits purchase fruits appropriate for your needs store fruits properly understand how fruits are pre-
~
selVed prepare fruits for cooking or selVice
~
apply variOLLS cooking methods to fruits
otanically, a/mit is an organ that dl!lHllopsjromil ovary of a flowering plant and cowains one or more ily, a fruit is tbe perfect snack food; tbe basis of a dessert, sauce or SDUp; or an accompaniment to meat, fish, shellfish try, No food group offers a greater variety of colors, flavors tures than fnti /. Ibis chapter identifies many q{ the fntilS typically used by vice operations. It then addresses ge,zeral considerations ,,'1! m,,_ ing fresh and preserved fntits. A discussion follows ah., wSIl,,,r/'iI: cooking methods presented in Chapter 9, Principles of O"01"g,' they apply to fruits, Recipes in whicb a fruit is tbe primary IlIlgn"""! are presented at the chapter's end.
JDENflFYING FRUffS .n-,
-
HYBRIDS
===
AND VARlEI'IES
Se\'eral fruits are extremely responsi\'e to
selective breeding and crossbreeding and have been toyed with by botanists and growers sinre at least the lime of ancient Rome. 1Wo distinct products are recognized: hybrids and varieties. Hybrids result from Crt6Sbreeding fruits from different species !hat are genetically unalike. The result is a unique product. Citrus is particularly responsive to hybridization. \'arietles result from breeding fruilS of the same species thaI have different qualities or charactfrislict Breeding two varieties 01 apples, [or example, produces a third variety 'With the best qualities of both parents.
Ripe-fuUy grout/ and det'l!loptd; /be fruil ~ J1a/edure and appi'(tr(l11a are at their peaR, and the fruil if ~ kJ use as food. 1>Or,
~
Blackberries
I
1111s book presents fruits according to the ways most people view use them, rather than by rigid bOlanical classifications. Fruits are divided imo eight categories: berries, citrus, exotiCS, grapes, melons, pomes. fruits and (topicals, according to either their shape, seed structure or habitat. Botanically, tomatoes, beans, eggplant, capsicum peppers and produce are fruits. But in ordinal)' thinking, they are nOt; they are . and are discussed in Chapter 22, Vegetables. A fruit may have several names, val)'ing from region to region or on veyor's whim. Botanists are also constantly reclassifying items to fit nev.. ings. The names given here foll ow generally accepted custom and usage.
Berries Berries are small, juicy fruits ,hat grow on vines and bushes worldwide. are characterized by thin skins and many tiny seeds that are often they go unnoticed. Some of the fruits classified here as berries do botanical definition (for example, raspberries and strawberries), that are berries botanically (for example, bananas and grapes) are elsewhere. Berries may be C'Jten plain or lIsed in everything from beer to bread, to sorbet. They make especially fine jams and compotes. Berries must be fully ripened on the vine, as they will not ripen after harvesting. Select berries that are plump and fully colored. "". p" stained containers and berries wilh whitish-gray or black spots of berries should be refrigerated and used promptly. Do nO( wash yOll are ready to use them, as washing removes some of their aroma and ens them.
benies., .
Blackberries Blackberries are similar to raspberries, but are larger and shinier, with purple to black color. Thorny blackberry vines are readily found in commercial production is limited. Peak season is mid-June through A.g.... ganberries, ollalie berries and boysenberries are blackberry hybrids.
• FRUns t"1a..
721
PJueberries ffuebcrries (Fr. myrtilles) are small and fi rm, with a true blue to almOSt black !lin and a juicy, light gray-blue interior. Cuhivaled berries (high-bush varieties)
L"OOIO be larger than wild (low-bush) ones. Blueberries are native to North \merica and are grown commercially from Maine to Oregon and along the AtittlC seaboard. Peak season is short, from mid-June to mid-AugUSt
Cranbe"ics CrltlOOries, another native North American food , are tart, firm fruit with a nx:nJt>d red skin. They grow on low vines in cuhivaled bogs (swamps) lhroughout MassachusetlS, Wisconsin and New Jersey. Rarely eaten raw, they 11! Illlde imo sauce or relish or are used in breads, pies or pastries. Cranberno are readily available frozen or made into a jelly-type sauce and canned. iJthoogh color does not indicate ripeness, cranberries should be picked over tdore cooking 10 remove those Ihat are soft or bruised. Peak harvesting sea'OX! i!i from Labor Day through October, leading to the association of cranber""(S with Thanksgiving dinner.
• Blueberries
Cranberries
Utrrallts Cwr:lnlS are tiny, tart fruits that grow on shrubs in grapelike clusters. The most rurnmon are a beautiful, almost translucent red, but black and golden (or ,fute) l'3rieties also exisl. All varieties are used for jams, jellies and sauces, and black currants are made into a liqueur, creme de cassis. Although rarely IJO'ioll in the United States, currants are \'ery popular and widely available in Europe, wilh a peak season during the late summer. (The dried fruilS called dllr.J.nts are not produced from these he-rrie~; they are a special variety of dried
White Currants
I'pes.)
!Jispberries il:;pberries (Fr. !ramboises) are perhaps the mOSt delicate of all fruilS. They tule a tan flavor and velvely texture. Red raspberries are the most common, uh black, purple and golden berries available in some markelS. When ripe, 'M berry pulls away easily from ilS white core, leaving the characteristic hol.m' center. Because they can be easily crushed and are slLsceptible 10 mold, m of the raspberries grown are marketed frozen. They grow on thorny m in cool climates from Washington State to western New York and are imnted from ew Zealand and South America. The peak domestic season is ·1lfIllate May through November.
Red Currants
Raspberries
5Jrall'berries \trJwberrics (Fr. !raises) are brilliant red, heart-shaped fruilS that grow on 1!lI;.':.. Actually a perennial herb, the berry's flesh is covered by tiny black «
Strawberries
722
("'!l\.
CHAPTER 25
Citrus (genus Citrus) Citrus fruits include lemons, limes, grapefruits, tangerines, kumquats, and several hybrids. They are charaderized by a thick rind, mOSl of a biller white pith (albedo) with a thin exterior layer of colored skin the zest. Their flesh is segmented and juicy. Citrus fruits are acidic. strong aroma; their flavors vary from bitter to tart to sweet. Citrus fruits grow on trees and shrubs in lropical and subtropical worldwide. All citrus fruits are fully ripened on the tree and will not ther after haiVesting. They should be refrigerated for longest Slorage. Select fruits thai feel heavy and have thin, smooth skins. Avoid those large blemishes or moist spots.
Grape/mils
Wbile Grape/mils
Grapefruits (Fr. pamplemollsse) are large and round with a yellow skin, thick rind and tart flesh . They are an l8th-cenIUlY hybrid of the orange and pummelo (a large, coarse fruit used mostly in Middle and Far Eastern cuisines). Two varieties of grapefruit are widely available all year: white-fleshed and pink- or ruby-fleshed. White grapefruits produce the finest juice, although pink grapefruits are sweeter. Fresh grapefruits are best eaten raw or tOpped with brown sugar and lightly broiled. Grapefruit segments are available canned in syrup.
Kumquats Km1lqllals (';~i'''
Kumquals are very small, oval-shaped, orange-colored fruits with a skin and slightly biller flesh. TIley can be eaten whole, either raw or in syrup, and may be used in jams and preseiVes.
LemollS The mOS1 commonly used citrus fnJits, lemons (Fr. CltroIlS), are bright yellow fruits available all year. Their strongly acidic flavor unpleasant 10 eat raw but perfect for flavoring desserts and i juice is also widely used in sauces, especially for fish, shellfish and Lemon zest is candied or used as garnish.
limes limes
Limes (Fr. /imam) are small fruits with thin skins ranging from )"ell'''''1I'''''' dark green. Limes are too tan 10 ell! raw and are often substituted for prepared dishes. They arc also juiced or used in cocktails, cunies or Lime zest can be graled and used to give color and fla\'or to a Limes are available all year, with a peak season during the summer.
Oranges Oranges are round fruits with a juicy, orange-colored flesh and a tnm, "'''" skin. They can be eilher sweet or biller. Valencia oranges and navel oranges (a seedless variety) are the lar sweet or"dnges. They can be juiced for beverages or sauces, and may be eaten raw, added to salads, cooked in desserts or used as a gami& The zest may be grated or julienned for sauces or garnish. Sweet 0""80"
mo' ••
Valencia Oranges
fWUrrs """
723
all year, with peak season from December to April. Blood orar
sweet but are small, with a rough, reddish skin. Their flesh is slrea iI.bbJd-,cedcolor. Blood oranges are available primarily during the wi are eaten raw, juiced or used in salads or sauces. When selectinl oranges, look for·fruits that feel plump and heavy, with unblemskin. The color of the skin depends on we',uher conditions; a rind does not affect the fla vor of the flesh. BiIer oranges include the Seville and bergamot They are used pri. for the essential oils found in their zest. Gil of bergamQ( gives tea its distinctive flavor; oil of Seville is essential to
NavelOranges
cura~o,
Mamier and orange flower water. Seville oranges arc also used in ,"",.des and sauces for mems and poultry.
sometimes referred to as mandarins, are small and dark orange. is loose and easily removed 10 reveal sweet, juicy, aromatic seg-
Blood Oranges
. Tangerines are most often eaten fres h and uncooked, but are available as mandarin oranges. Tangelos are a hybrid of tangerines and grapefruits. They are the size of a lilt" "on.ge;; they have a bulbous stem end and few to no seeds.
/m1lllRE fOR SEGMOOING CITRUS FRUm;
Citrus segments, known as
supremes, are made by first carefully cutting off tbe entire peel {Iocluding the bitter white pith) in eo.·m slices.
2. Individual segments are then removed by gently cutting alongside each membrane.
Pm.", FOR ZFSI1Nr. C'TRI L~ FRmTS
A five-hole zester is used to remove paper-thin strips of the colored rind.
Tangerines
724 '"""
C1W'fER 25
PROCEDURE FOR CUITING CITRUS PEELS
Large strips of citrus zesl may be lNI! as a garnish or to flavor soups or sauces,
Exotics Improved transponation has led to the increasing availability (although ~ radic in some areas) of exotic or unusual fresh fruits such as figs, persimllm pomegranates, prickly pears, rhubarb and star fruits. Other exotic fruils. id as breadfruit, cherimoya (custard apples), lychce, feijoa and loquat, are d available only on a limited basis from specialty purveyors and are
net"
cussed here.
Figs Figs (Fr. figues) are the fruit of ficus trees. TIley are small, soft, pear-~ fruilS with an intensely sweet flavor and rich, moist texture made crunch)' ~
a multitude of tiny seeds. Fresh figs can be sliced and served in salads or ,. cured mealS such as prosciutto. They can also be baked, poached or used. jams, preserves or compotes. Dark-skinned figs, known as Mission figs, are a variety planted al pacK Coast missions during the 18th century. They have a thin skin and smaU smk and are available fresh, canned or dried. The white-skinned figs gro\\n rot mercially include the White Adriatic, used principally for drying and ~ and the all-purpose Kadota. TIle most important domestic variety, hoWC\ttl the Calimyrna. These large figs have a rich yellow color and large nuTt)· smi Fresh Calimyrna figs are the finest for eating out of hand; they are also 31» able dried. For the best flavor, figs should be fully ripened on the tree. unfommaldl' fully ripened figs are very delicate and difficult 10 lransport. Most figs ;!K. season from June through October; fresh Calimyma figs are available on!)'. ing June.
Guava Guavas are a small, oval or pear-shaped frui t with a strong fragrance aOOl mild, slightly grainy flesh. They are excellent in jams and preserves, and gum juice is available plain or blended with other tropical fruit juices. Gum pa a thick, sliceable gel, is a popular trcat throughout Central America and dIt
FRunS
~'soft
Guava will ripen if stored at room temperature and should be and fully ripened for the best flavor.
1mimmons, sometimes referred to as kaki or Sharon fruits, are a bright or,.. acorn-shaped fruit with a glossy skin and a large papel)' blossom. The W is bright orange and jellylike, with a mild but rich fl avor similar to honey am plums. Persimmons should be peeled before use; any seeds should be disCIded. Select bright orange fruits and refrigerate only afte r they are compete/}. ripe. When ripe, persimmons will be very soft and the skin will have »almosI translucent appearance. Ripe persimmons are deliciOUS eaten raw; halved and topped with cream (I soft cheese; or peeled, sliced and added to fm it salads. Persimmon lmd, muffins,' cakes and pies are also popular. Underripe persimmons are _ inedible, however. They are strongly tannic with a chalky or cottony
Persimmons
-.
Petsimmons are tree fmits grown in subtropical areas worldwide, although W.-\siln varieties-now grown in California-are the most common. Fresh Jmimmons are available from October through Janual)'.
r.tgrollates ~ mcient fruit native to Persia (now Iran), pomegranates have long been a • of poet!)' and a symbol of fert ility. Pomegranates are round, about the • ci a large orange, with a pronounced calyx. The skin forms a hard shell pinkish-red color. The interior is filled with hundreds of small, red seeds Itbrll are, botanically, the actual fruits) surrounded by juicy red pulp. An a:dilIe )'ellow membrane separates the seeds into compartments. Pomegranalaresweet-sour, and the seeds are pleasantly crunchy. The bright red seeds ae an attractive garnish. Pomegranate juice is a popular beverage in Iftditerranean cuisines, and grenadine syrup is made from concentrated pomeJWle juice. Select heavy fruits that are not rock-hard, cracked or heavily bmised. Whole Jmlegr.lnates can be refrigerated fo r several weeks. Pomegranates are avail~ from September through December, with peak season in October.
.1
IW
"""'.
Select fruilS that are full-colored, heavy and tender, but not too soft. Avoid be with mushy or bruised spots. Ripe prickly pears can be refrigerated for I \-eek or more. Prickly pears are grown in Mexico and several southwestern ares and are available from September through December.
Pomegranates
C""'\!t.
725
726
~
ClIAJYf'ER 25
PROCEDURE FOR PEELING PRICKLY PEARs
1. To avoid being stung by a prickly pear, hold it steady with a fork , then use a knife to cut off both ends.
2. Cut a lengthwise slit throogh tbr skin , Slip the tip of the knife III) the cut and peel away the skiD" holding it down while rol1ingtb! fruit away.
RIJllbarb Although botanically a vegetable, rhubarb is most often prepared as 3 frut is a perennial plan! that grows well in temperate and cold climates. pinkish-red stems are ediblc; the leaves contain high amounts of """ci. which is toxic. Rhubarb stems are extremely acidic, requiring large amounts of,",,,,,,, ate the desired sweet-sour taste. Cinnamon, ginger, orange and oo;1>"J". particularly compatible with rhubarb. It is cxcellent for pies, cobblers, or srewing. Young, tender stalks of rhubarb do not need to be peeled. cooked, rhubarb becomes very soft and rums a bcautifullight pink color. Fresh rhubarb is sold as whole stalks, with the leaves ,e;"0'·ed, 5<:100 .",' unblemished stalks. Peak season is during the early spring, from through May. Frozen rhubarb pieces are readily available and are excell,d. pies, tarts or jams.
Star Fruits Star fruitS, also known as carambola, are oval, up to 5 inches (12.5 ct!lIiIf. ters) long, with five prominent ribs or wings running their length. AI."Ii» section cut is shaped like a star. TIle edible skin is a waxy orange-yelP. I covers a dry, paler yellow flesh. Its flavor is similar to plulM. .11'111 but bland. Star fruits do nOt need to be peeled or seeded. The)'. most often sliced and added to fnl il salad or used as a garnish. t ripe fruitS can be cooked in stews or chutneys. Color and aroma are the best indicators of ripeness. The filii should be a deep golden-yellow and there should Ix! brown 1.bI the edge of the ribs. The aroma should be full and floral. Green filii can be kept at room temperature 10 ripen, then refrigerated for up to 1M weeks. Star fruits are cultivated in Hawaii, Florida and California. tIxqIi some are still imported from the Caribbean . Fresh fruitS are available tn. August to February. SlarFruft
Grapes (Vilis vinifera) Grapes are the single largest fruit crop in the world, due, of course, 10 !her use in wine making. This section, however, discusses only table grapes, grown for eating. Grapes are berries that grow on vines in large dusters. CJ. ifornia is the world's largest prodllcer, with more than a dozen "';~" ~ml
,"um' ,..,.., 727 ,....""., GRAPEJ' llITO WINE \~' :til the fine wine made in the mI ames from l':lIieties of a single grape _ nILs lilli/em. It is gnY>In in the e.d SU!es. EUrqJe, South Africa. South
.w.. the Middle East, Australia and wherIII' fiB!
\line is made. The I'ariety of giJpes - ' UI:lfly ~\"fll \\ine detemlinES the wine's *noet and most wine-producing countries
Cnpe ,'aneta! PInd ,\'(Jir I1xlrdlJlllltlY ~rub
Cabt'11I1'1 Sff/lI'ignoll
...,
!tIUl'igllOIl Bklllc
lmfamlel (]Jfmn B1tmc
carefJlly regulate the grCMing areas and production ri grapes. American wines are knO\\n by their I'aneta! names, \\TIcreas European (espetially French) wines are generally known by the viney:lI'rl's location. 111C major I'anetals of wine grapes and the wines in which they are used are listed here.
Wine red Burgundy and champagne white Burgundy, Chablis and champagne COte Rolie and lIennitage Bordeaux and red Grares Sauterne, while Grares, fi:m~ blanc and Sancerre Saint-EmiliOIl and for bltllding with Cabemet Samignon red and white zinfandel (California claims a lirtualty monopoly) \OO\T:l.y
f truhlcusc. Grapes are classified by color as white (which are actually green)
a lUck (which are actually red). \'(' hite grapes :Ire generally blander than !tid: ones. with a thinner skin and firmer flesh. The grape's color and most of its flavor are found in the skin. Grnpes are iftIIllll'r;l[en raw, either alone or in fruit salads. They aTe also used as a garish or accompaniment to dessens and cheeses. Dried grapes are known as ~ (usually made from Thompson Seedless or muscat grapes), currants I ,Ndt' from Black Corinth gr::.pes and labeled lante currants) or sultanas !1lIde from sultana grapes). Grapes 3rc available all yellr becJuse the many va rieties ha\'e different harII~ schedules. Look for firm , unblemished fruits that are firmly anached to It "~'fll. A surface bloom or dusty appearance is caused by yeasts and indiaIt"I recent harvesting. Wrinkled grapes or those with brown SpOIS :'lround the tern are (XIst their prime. All grapes should be rinsed and drained prior to use.
Red Flame Grapes
I
JtJ Ffallle Grapes In! Flame gropes are a seedless C:llifoffiia hybrid, second only in imponance Red Flame gr:lpes are large and round with a lligtllir un flavor :md variegated fed color.
I kI the l1lompson Seedless. IIomPSOII Seedless Grapes
Tbom/lSOIi Seedless Gra/){!s
1br rno:.I commercially impon,lnt table grapes are a variery known as 1l10mp1M 'x'edles:..
which are p:lle green with a crisp texture and sweet flavor. Peak from June to November. M:l.OY are dried in the hot desen sun of Cllhni:t·s S"n Joaquin Valley to produce dark raisins. For golden raisins, 1l1Omp1M 'lCtdlcss gr..pes are tre:ncd with sulfur dioxide to prevent browning, then ID:J nlcchanic:tlly. Of the table grapes containing seeds, the mOSt important varieties are the (M:Oro. Rihier and Emperor. TIley range from ligln red to deep black. and all btt art' in season during the autumn. Concord grapes, one of the few grape tl!k'\ics natil'e to the New \X/orld. are especially iml>onant for making juices inIOn j:,
alll·llk~.
COIlCOrd Grapes
728
~
ClWYfER 25
Melons Like pumpkins and cucumbers, melons are members of the gourd family (Ct curbitaceae). The dozens of melon varieties can be divided into IWO germ
types: sweet (or dessert) melons and watermelons. Sweet melons ha\"e a un green or yellow netted or farrowed rind and dense, fragr.:mt flesh. \\"latermeloo has a thick, dark green rind surrounding crisp, watery flesh. Melons are almost 90% water, so cooking destroys Iheir texture, quid:ll turning the flesh to mush. fo.'lost are served simply sliced, perhaps with 3 bid lemon or lime juice. r-,·Ielons also blend well in fruit salads or wilh ricb. meats such :IS prosciutto. Melons may be pureed and made into sortll1 ] chilled, uncooked soup. Melons should be vine-ripened. A ripe melon should yield slightly lit! spring back when pressed at the blossom end (opposite the stem). II also give off a strong aroma. Avoid melons that are very soft or feel damp. the stem end. Ripe melons may be stored in the refrigerator, although the lJI. vor will be better al room temperature. Slightl), underripe melons C2I1 !r stored at room temperature to allow flavor and aroma to develop.
Gill/t(l/OUpes
CtmtalOlljJes American cantaloupes, which are actually muskmelons, are sweet melOlb' a thick, yellow-green netted rind, a sweet, moisl, omnge flesh and a ~ aroma. (European cantaloupes, which are not generall)' available in thisCCUItry, are more craggy and furrowed in appearance.) As wilh all sweet mekni. the many small seeds are found in a central cavity. Cantaloupes are em!lem for ealing alone and are especially good with ham or ricb roob. Avoid cantaloupes with the pronounced yellow color or ndlI aroma that indicates overripeness. Mexican imports ensure 3 jtll· round supply, although their peak season is summer. Casaba Melol1s Casaba melons are a teardrop-shaped sweet melon. They h:i\.~ I coarse, yellow skin and a thick, ridged rind; their flesh is creaar white to yellow. Ca&1ba melons :Ire used like cantaloupes. Ca.~ melons do not have an aroma, SO selection must be based onl ~ skin color and the absence of dark or moist patches. Peak season is cU· ing Seplember and OCtober.
Crenshaw Melolls
CreIlS/)(11lJ Melolls Crenshaw (or cranshaw) melons have a mottled, green-)"elJow ~ rind and orange-pink flesh. They are large pear-shaped sweet mem with a strong aroma. The flesh has a rich, spicy flavor and mar be Ull'd like cantaloupe. Crensh:tws are available from July through October, with peak season during August ....- -.... and September.
Honeydew Atelons Hone)tdew melons are large oval sweet melons with ;1 smooth rind thai ranges from white to pale green. Although the flesh is generally pale
Greellllolleydell"S
FRUfIS
green, with a mild, sweet flavor, pink- or gold-fleshed honeydews are also available. Like casaba melons, honeydew melons have liule to no aroma. They arc a\'ailable almost all year, wilh peak season from June through
Gtid 1I00u!J'dell's
Octo~r.
S(ll1l(1 Claus Melolls S:mta Clllus or Christmas melons are large, elongated sweet melons with a green-and-yellow-striped, smooth rind. The is creamy while or yellow :Ind tastes like casaba. They ft a winter variety, with peak availability during December, expl:tins the name.
.n
IIttrmelolls k'nJlekw are large (up to 30 pounds o r 13.5 kilograms) round
Simfa Ckllls Melolls
"3I-sluped melons with a thick rind. The skin may be solid JML green-SiriP'!d or mouled wilh white. TIle flesh is
::!IflJOO extremely juicy wilh small , h3rd, black seeds JIIghout Seedless hybrids are available, although
r... are relatively expensive. Most watermelons It\( pink to red flesh,
although golden-fleshed V:l:r'lt'S arc becoming more common. Ifatl'rmelons are of a different genus from Itt S\1,'l'e! melons described earlier, They are tl/ile to tropical Africa and are now grown fllIlle1'(ially in Texas and se\'er:.t1 southern ue;.
Red Seedless WatermelOI1
G'old Watermeloll
'"""
729
730
~
CIW'I1!II 25
Pomes (family Rosacea~ Pames arc trcc frui ts with thin skin and fiml flesh surrounding a centro) o:R containing many small seeds called pips or carpels. Pomes include a~ pears and quince.
Apples
Kome
Ned Deliciolls
Apples (Fr. !>OlIIlIIes), perhaps the most common and commonly apprt'rilkd of all fruits, grow on trees in temperate zones worldwide. They are • because o f their convenience, navar, varicty and availability. Apples can be eaten raw OLli o f hand. or they can be used in a wide \'J)
ely of cooked or baked dishes. TIley arc equally useful in breads. des.'l'It,a vegetable dishes and go well with game, pork and poullry. Classic dis~ IJr" pared with apples are often referred \0 li S d la Norll/(lIIde. Apple juice (M'!' produces alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages and cider vinegar.
Grat/II)' Smitb
GoMelJ Deliciofls
Of the hundreds of known applc varieties, only 20 or so are commeni1Jl significant in the United States. Several varieties and their chai.laerislic;_ noted in Tab:e 25. 1. Most have a moist, creamy white flesh with a thin skin yellow, green or red. TIley range in fla vor from very swcct to very \all , . an equally broad range of texlUres, from firm and crisp to soft and nll~· [n Europe, apples are divided into distinct cooking and eating \""Jrid~ Cooking varieties arc those thaI disintcgmte to 11 puree when cooked. AmIfl. can varieties are less rigidly claSSified. Nevenheless, not all apples are aPJlO" priate for all types of cooking. Those that retain their shape bener dJrq cooking are the best choices where slices or appearance arc imponanl. Vmeties with a higher malic acid content break down easily, making them nut appropriate for applesauce or juicing. Either type may be eaten out d tw.i depending on personal preference. Ahhough not native \0 North America, apples are now grown com!lll"'!cil!l in 35 states, with Washington and New York leading in production. Appb;ur harvested when still sighlly underripe, then stored in a controlled at~ (temperature and oxygen are greally reduced) for extended periods until ro) for sale. Modern storage techniques make fresh apples available all )"l'"J./•• though peak se:tson is during the autumn. When selecting apples, look for smooth, unbroken skins and firm fruil.), wiboul soft spots or bf\lises. Badly bmised or rolling apples should be discardedm.mediately. They emit quantities of ethylene gas that speed spoilage of d fmilS. (Remember the &1ying about ~one bad apple spoils the barrel. -) Slore ~ pies chilled for up to six weeks. Apple peels (the skin) m!ly be eaten orretnOl~ as desired, but in either case, apples should be washed jllSt prior to use to re1!K'
TABLE 2 5. 1 .n.. APPLE VARlli1'lES Variety
Skin Color
Golden Delicious Granny Smith Jon:llhan Mcintosh Pippin (Newton) Red Delicious Rome
Glossy, greenish-gold Bright green Brilliant red Red with grt.""CIl background Grt-enish-yellow Deep red
Winesap
Flal'or
Texture
Peak Season U'"
Sept.- oa. Semifirm Fiml and crisp Oct.- Nov. Tan 10 3cidi<: Tender Sept.- Oct. Tart to acidic Soft Fall T,n Semifinn Fall Sweet but bland Soft to mealy Sept.- Oct. Red Sweet-tan Oct.- Nov. Firm Dark red with yellow streaks Tangy Oct.- Nov. Crisp
Sweel
T,n
In tans, with cheese, in S3bdI Eating, in tarts Ealing, all-purpose Applesauce. in dosed pies In pies, eating, baking Eating Baking. pies, saUce'i Cider, all-purpose
FRuns """ 731 and any wax thai was applied to improve appear:lnee. Apple slices can ••"'"' (ol'tenwith sugar or citric acid added to slow spoilage) or dried. PIXllDl'RE FOR CoRING ApPLES
L R!.'mo\'e the core from :1 whole apple with an apple corer by llberting the corer from the stem mel and pushing out the cylinder C'00laining the core and seeds.
2. Alternatively, first cut an apple into quarters, then use a paring knife to cut away the core and seeds.
PM (Fr. {X>ires) are an ancient tree fruit grown in temperate areas
*wghoul the world. Most of the pears marketed in this country are
10'111 in California, " 'ashinglon and Oregon . .iJthough literally thousands of pear varieties have been ide ntifi ed,
a dozen or so are commercially significant. Several variand theiT charaaeristics are noted in Table 25. 2. Pear ntk1ies \'3ry widely in size, color and flavor_ TIley are 8)1 often eaten out of hand, but can be baked or p:lIChed, Pears are delicious with cheese, especially Iile cbeeses, and can be used in fru it salads, compotes
Red d'Alljoli
CIW)'
riles
& Irlletl
(I'~'es.
,!,sian pears, also known as Chinese pears or applepolS, are of ,\ different species than common pears. TIley
Irne the mOist, sweet flavor of a pear and the round shape and msp texture of an appJe, They are becoming increasingly popllIrin thi.s country, particularly those known as Twentieth Century or Nijisseiki .
1lILE 25,2
""'" .....
"'"
Asian Pears
PEAR VARI~,I ES
Appearance
Fb.vor
Texture
Peak Season U'"
Greenish-yellow skin;
Sweet and juicy firm , keeps well Oct.-;\lay
Eating, poaching, baking
Tendt:r
Aug.-Dec.
Eating, canning, in salads
SepL-t.lay
Poaching, baking
Sweet, juicy
Dry, holds its shape well Smooth
Oct.-Feb.
Eating
Spicy
Very firm , grainy Aug.-Dec.
(Icurre d'Anjou) egg-shaped willl shon neck;
.... .,.
(f"llIiams)
""""
!odd
red variety also a\"aibble Thin yellow skin; bell-shaped; red \rariClY also available Goldt:n-brown skin; long, tapered nC(k Yellow-green skin; large and chubby Tiny; brown to yellow skin
Very sweet, buttery, juicy Buttery
Poaching. pickling
732 """
CIW'TER 25
When selecting pears, look for emits with smooth, unbroken skin and ~n iltact stem. Pears will not ripen properly on the tree, so they are picked \loti:
still firm and should be allowed to soften before use. Underripe pears rna}' Ir Jeft al room temperature to ripen. A properly ripened pear should have ago:d fragrance and yield to gentle pressure at the stem end. Pears can be prepmd or stored in the same ways as apples.
Quince
Ptttin--a mrboh;r/raJe obIainedjrom a!rtIIin fruilsi USt!d Ie l&den jams and jellies.
Common quince (Fr. coing) resemble large, lumpy yellow pears. Their flesh a hard, with many pips or seeds, and they have a wonderful fragrance. Too & tTingen! to eat raw, quince develop a sweet flavor and pink color liteR cooked with sugar. Quince are used in meat slews, jellies, marmalades m1 pies. They have a high pectin content and may be added to other fruit jams or preserves to encourage gelling. Fresh quince, usually imported from South America or southeast EulOll. are available from October through January. Select firm fmilS with a good)"dlow color. Small blemishes may be cut away before cooking. Quince "ill keep for up to a month under refrigeration.
Stone Fruits (genus Prunus) Stone fmits , also known as dmpes, include apricots, cherries, nectarines. peaches and plums. They are characterized by a thin skin, soft flesh and III woody stone or pit. Although most originated in China, the shrubs and lJtCI producing stone fruits are now grown in temperate climates worldwide. The domestic varieties of stone fruits are in season from late spring!ltroo; summer. They tend to be fragile frui ts, eaSily bruised, difficult to transpon am with a short shelf life. Do not wash them until ready to use, as moisture ca cause deterioration. Avoid ingesting the pits-most contain toxic acids. SIar fruits are excellent dried and are often used to make liqueurs and beandio
Apricots
Apricots
Apricots (Fr. abriCQls) are small, round stone fruits with a vel\"ery skin !hi varies from deep yellow to vivid orange. Their juicy orange flesh surround.! I dark, almond-shaped pit. Apricots can be eaten out of hand, poached, Slewed. baked or candied. They are often used in fruit compotes or savory sauceskr meat or JXlultry, and are also popular in quick breads, fru it tans or purttd r.r dessert sauces, jams, cust:lrds or mousses. Apricots enjoy a short season, peak ing during June and July, and do Jd travel well. Select apricots that are well shaped, plump and fairly finn. A\"(~ Ones that are greenish-yellow or mushy. Fresh apricots will last for 5e\taI days under refrigeration, but the flavor is best at room temperature. If fmII fruits are unavailable, canned apricots are usually an acceptable substinn. Dried apricotS and apricQ{ juice (known as nectar) are readily available.
Cberries From the nonhern states, particularly Washington, Oregon, Michigan and Mw York, come the two most important types of cherry: the sweet cherry and tIr sour (or tan) cherry. Rainfer Cberries Sweet cherries (Fr. cerises) are round to heart-shaped, about I inch (2.5 Ctfttimeters) in diameter. with skin that ranges from yellow to deep red to n~ black. The flesh, which is sweet and juicy, may vary from yellow to dark red.
FRUns '""" CO~lJl1on
and popular sweet cherries are the dark red Sings. YellowAnn and Rainier cherries are also available in some areas. ""(\1 cherries are often marketed fresh , made into maraschino cherries or for use in baked goods. Fresh sweet cherries have a very shan seaduring June and July. Cherries will nOt ripen funher after har"'lP'lea fruilS that are firm and plump with a green stem still attached. should not be any brown spots around the stem. A dry or brown stem that the cherry is less than fresh. Once the stem is removed, the :m;' will deteriorate rapidly. Store fresh cherries in the refrigerator and do wash them until ready to use. l«JC cherries are light to dark red and are so acidic they are rarely eaten ed. TIle 1lI0st common sour cherries are the r-,'Iontmorency and Morello. lIl.!iQUrcherries are canned or frozen , or cooked with sugar and starch (usucornstarch or tapioca) and sold as prepared pastry and pie fillings. Ibh sweet and sour varieties are available dried.
8illg Cherries
WURE FOR PIITING CIIERRII~
Remo\'e the stem and place the cherry in the pitter with the indentation facing up. Squeeze the handles together to force out the pit.
htKbes IIl1d Nectarines Itrhes (Fr. p&:bes) are moderate-sized, round fru its with a juicy, sweet flesh. \«urines are a variety of peach, the main difference between the twO being ttir ~in. Peaches have a thin skin covered with fuzz. while nectarines have dun. smooth skin. The flesh of either fruit !"'dnges from white to pale orange. uloogb their flavors are somewhat different, they may be substituted for each :en in ITIOSI recipes. Peaches and ncoafines are excellent for eating out of hand or in dessen (( pastries. TIley are also used in jams, chutneys, preserves and savory :-/Ie). ha\'ing a panicular affinity for Asian and Indian dishes. Although the I!. edible, peaches are generally peeled before being used. (Peaches are peeled if blanched first.) Peaches and nectarines are either freestones or clingstones. With freestones, !bh scPJrates easily from the Stone; freestone fru its are commonly eaten ri hand. TIle flesh of clingstones adheres firmly to the stone; they hold • \hape bettcr when cooked and are the type most often canned. )de(( fruitS with a good aroma, an overall creamy, yellow or yellow-orange loy and an unwrinkled skin free of blemishes. Red patches are nOl an indi;t)X) of ripeness; a green skin indicates that the fruit was picked too early 100 ~ \\ilJ nOl ripen funher. Peaches and nectarincs will soften but do not beUle sweeter aftcr harvesting.
Neetarilles
733
734 ....". CIIAPTER 25 The United Stales, especially California, is the world's largest produce1 It peaches and nectarines. Peak season is through the summer months. \l'e
July and August producing the best crop. South American peaches are soottimes available from January to ~ I ay. Canned and frozen peaches are red available.
Plums plums (Fr. pnmes) are round \0 oval-shaped fruits that grow on trees J bushes. Dozens of plum varieties are known, although only a few are rot
mercially significant. Plums vary in size from vcry small to 3 inches Cj rerr
Stlllta KOS(ll'illlllS
.,
... ..
' Damso" pl1l1llS
timeters) in diameter. Their thin skin C'd n be grecn, red, yellow or Il/Db shades of blue-purple. Plums are excellent for eating Out of hand. PluIns can also be ookt'll
poached or used in pies, cobblers or tartS; they are often used in jams or rnserves, and fresh slices can be used in salads or compotes. Fresh plums are widely avail:lble from June through October, with a pnk season in August and September. When selecting plums, look for plump. smooth fruits with unblemished skin. Generally, they should yield to gem. pressure, although the green :lnd yellow varieties remain quite firm. AI"OO plums with mOist, brown spots near the stem. Plums may be left at room temperature to ripen, then stored in the refrigemtor. Pnmes, discusse
Tropicals Tropical fruits are native to the world's hOi. tropical or subl:ropical regicr6 Most are now readily available throughout the United States thanks 10 rafi.l transponation and distribution methods. All can be eaten fresh, withoul oxi· ing. Their flavors complement each other and go well with rich or spier lI"l'1 fish and poultry dishes.
Bananas
Common I'ellow &moll(JS
1'/alltaills
Common yellow b:lnanas (Fr. lxl1lalles) are actually the berries of a large trqlical herb. Grown in bunches called hands, they are about 7-9 il"lCM 07.5-22.5 centimeters) long, with a sticky, soft, sweet flesh. Their inediblqdlow skin is easily removed. Properly ripened bananas are excellent eaten out of h:lnd or used insabck. Lightly bruised or overripe fruits are best used for breads or muffins. I3arIaIm blend well with other tTopical fruits and citnlS. Their unique fla~·or is also ("(& plemented by curry, cinnamon, ginger, honey and chocolate. Fresh bananas are available all yeltr. Bananas are alwa)'s hal"\'c.sted I'm still green, because the texture and flavor will be adversely affected if III fruits are allowed to turn yellow on the tree. Unripe bananas are han!, ~ and starchy. Because bananas ripen afler harvesting, it is acceptable to II'" chase green bananas if there is sufficient time for final ripening before ll!t Bananas should be lefl at room temperature 10 ripen. A properly ripened hr nana has a )'ellow peel with brown flecks. The tip should ld have an)' remaining green coloring. As bananas continue to .. the peel darkens and the starches turn to sugar, giving the 6UI a sweeter flavor. Avoid bananas that have large brown bruills or a gmy caSt (a sign of cold damage). Plantains, also referred to as cooking bananas, are largerlJil not as sweet as common bananas. The)' are frequently cooked starchy vegetable in tropie
i.I'
FRum' """
"' .." ,n, fruit of the date palm tree, which has been cultivated since anDales are about 1-2 inches (2.5-; centimeters) long, with a paperand a single grooved seed in the cemcr. Most are golden to dark when ripe.
.m
fugh dales appear to be dried, they are actuall}, fresh fruits. They have
o-ty";,.,~ " almost candied texture and rich flavor. Dates provide flavor and for
muffins, cookies and tans. They can also be served with dried fruits, or slUffed with meat or cheese as an appetizer. PlIed dales are readily available in several packaged forms: whole,
Medjool
or extnlded (for use in baking). Whole unpiucd dates are available
" Date'
is also available for usc as a natural sweetener, especially
._ru ,.~". Although packaged o r processed dales are available all year,
season for fresh domestic dates is from October through December, seleaing dates, look for those that are plump, glossy and moist. ~SOO"I;;Ines
known as kiwifntits or Chinese gooseberries, are small oval about the size of a large egg, with a thin, fuzzy brown skin. TIle flesh Ilrighi with a white core surrounded by hundreds of tiny black seeds. [ill) are sweet, but somewh:n bland. TIley are best used raw, peeled and hand or sliced for fruit salads or garnish, Although kiwis are not ~:~~for cooking because heat causes them to fall apart, they are a " to glazed fruit tarts and can be pureed for sorbets, mousses or Kiwis contain an enzyme similar to that in fresh pineapple and pahas a tenderizing effect on meat and prevenLS gelling.
&"'"
~ ====== FRJEDA AND nlE KIWIFRUIT
repled into tlle world's fruit .-emacular, there a hugely \;able crop? 11M! is thanks to Frieda Caplan. In 1962 oJ' ",M's., Inc., launched her worldwide promotion of kiwifruit, 'w~:.H;,oc Ulat Chinese gooseber-
U"""
lit,.
'':::;~;~~;.":,New Zealand, might
III
ki\lifruit (the kiwi is bird of New Zealand), Frieda unapnxlore This story of ule kj· "" ",UedJh"mgiloui the world as one SIICCt'SSeS in food marketing. after 18 )"WS of Frieda's contino ~""''i&"''';'' and expensl\1! marketI became a North American IlOII\"tlle cuisine chefs prominently it in their moos of strawberry, baand pineapple>. Since thai time, asked most commonly of Frieda's, 1~" ,.'lIll be the next kiwifruit?" 3/IS'IteI' is that there \\illllC\-er be ankmfruil W1len tlle kiwifruit was ac-
'i
was an unconditional paradigm shift. Today, specialty produce does not ha\-e to go tllroUgh till! rigorous acceptance process innieted on the kiwifruit. There can never be anotller kiwifruit because the marketing climate and consumer palate have shifted in a wonderful, irreversible way. Noll' when a new fruit like red bananas or yellow seedless watennelon comes onto the market, the consuming public does tlOI react with fear and say "Bananas are supposal to be ~~llaw" or "It really isn't watermelon if there aren't any seeds and it's not red." They respond \lith posith-e open minds (much the same as Frieda did when she purchased her first nat of kiwifruit in 1962) and a new-found knowledge that new foods will bring quality and variety, not discord, to their diets. lle'IV
~KAR:E.~ CAPu.~
Frieda's eldest daughter and president of FRiEflj S, INC.
Kilt'is
735
736
~
CIIAl'IF.R 25
Mllngoes t.langoes are oval or kidney-shaped fruits that normally weigh betwt\'ll ounces and 1 pound ( 180-500 grams). Their skin is smooth and thin N lough, varying from yellow to orange-red, witb patches of green, red () I*pie. As mangoes ripen, the green disappears. The juicy, bright orange ftr,a clings to a large, flat pit. A mango's unique fla vor is spicy-sweet, wilh an acidic tang. ~lang<X"i
Mal/goes
be pureed for use in drinks or sauces, or the flesh can be sliced or cubed lr use in salads. pickles, chutneys or desseru. Mangoes go well with spiq fIX such as elIfry and wilh barbecued meats. Although Florida produces some mangoes, mOSt of those available in ~ coumry are from Mexico. Peak season is from May through AuguSt Sell>: fruits with good color that are fi rm and free of blemishes. Ripe 1IUIlgIt'> should have a good aroma, and should not be 100 soft or shriveled. A/bI mangoes to ripen completely at room temperature, then refrigerate fOI UP!; one week.
PROCEDURE FOR PlfflNG AND CarrlNG M\t\'GOES
J. Cut along each side of the pit to
remove two sections.
2. Each seoion can then be cubed using the " hedgehog~ technique: Make crosswise cuts through the flesh , jllst to the skin; press up on the skin side of the section, exposing the cubes.
3. TIle mango may be served like this, or the cubes can be cutcifll use in salads or other dishes.
Papa)'as
Regultlr 1'(/IX~r(/S Papain 1111 nlZJlIlt /01111(/ ill /XI/IO)YIS Ibnl brrtlRs (/otm proteillS; 11Sf!(/{M lbe primary illgredienl ill 111(111)' comlllerr:flli mrolll'llderi::err.
Papayas, also known as pawpaws, are greenish-yellow fmits shaped rathetlilt large pears and weighing 1- 2 pounds (500-1000 grams). When halved. tb:r resemble a melon. TIle flesh is golden (0 reddish-pink; iLS center cavit)' is IiIIa: with round, silver-black seeds resembling caviar. Ripe papayas can be eatc: raw, with only a squin of lemon or lime juice. They can also be pureed rtf sweet or spicy sauces, chilled soups or sorbets. Papayas contain papain, which breaks down proteins, and therefore II" p.ayas are an excellent meat tenderizer. Meats can be marinated wim papall juice or slices before cooking. Papain, however, makes fresh papayas UM· able for use in gelatins because it inhibits gelling. Unripe (green) papap:. aJt often used in pickles or chutneys, and can be baked or stewed wim ~ II poultry.
FRum ,"""
Papaya ~d5 are edible, with a peppery flavor and slight cnmch. They are J:;IOOaUy used \0 garnish fruit salads or add flavor to fruit &11s:ls and com-
""Papayas arc grown in tropical and subtropical areas worldwide. Although Ulble year-round, peak season is from April through June. Select papayas are plump, with a smooth, unblemished skin. Color is a better dete mlinant ripeness than is softness: The greater Ihe proponion of yellow to green skin lD. the riper the fruit. Papayas may be held at room temperature until com:i:Id)" ri]X!, then refrigerated for up
\0
one week.
Red Papayas
~ollFmils
fmils (grmwdillas) have a firm, almost shell-like purple skin with nnge-rellow pulp surrounding large, black, edible seeds. They are about the
~jlsion
size and shape of large hen eggs, with a sweet, rich and un-
mistakable citnlsy navor, l11e pulp is used in custards, sauces and ice creams. Select heavy fruits with dark, shriveled skin and a strong aroma. Allow them to ripen lIt room temperature, if necessary, then refrigerate. Passion frui ts are now grown in New Zealand, Hawaii and California and should be available all year, although peak season frInion Fn/ils is February and March. Bottles or frozen packs of puree are readily available and provide a strong, tnJe naVOL
fiMappies Pmpples (Fr, allm/{/s) are the fruit of a shrub with sharp spear-shaped we- Ealil fru it is (overed with rough, brown eyes, giving it the appearance 3pme cone. The pale yellow flesh, which is sweet ni lery juicy, surrounds a cylindrical woody "« that is edible but tOO lOugh for most \Iost pineapples weigh approxiI!l.I!t'I)' 2 pounds (I kilogram), but ~1If I"arieties are also available. Pineapples are excellent eaten ~_ _..: mi, alone or in salads. Slices can be h.Jted or grilled to accompany pork (I ham. The cuisines of Southeast ~\~ mcorporme pineapple into various 1tI1CS, soups and stews. Pineapple juice ~ popular beverage, often lIsed in punch IX cocktails. Canned or cooked pine:lpple 00 be added to gel:ltin mixtures, but avoid i<'IIlg fresh pineapple, as an enzyme (bromelin) woo in fresh pineapple breaks down gelatin. Pineapples do not ripen after harvesting. TIley bISI be left on the stem umil completely ripe, at 'lth time they are extremely perishable. The vast ma'of pine:tpples come from Hawaii. Fresh pineapples Ie 31";lilable all ye:lr, with peak supplies in March Ikoogh Junc. Select heavy fmits with a strong, sweet ,"Ill and rich color. Avoid those with dried leaves or soft l{ltl Pineapples should be used as soon as possible after :wchlse. Pineapples are also available canned in slices, or crushed, dried or candied.
i'iIlIJ(IJJj)/es
737
738 '"""
CIlAPTh~ 25
PROCEDURE FOR TRIMM LNG AND SUCING PlNEAPPLES
1. Slice off the leaves and stem end.
Stand the fruit upright and cut the peel off in vertical strips.
2. CUI the peeled fruit in quaners, then cut away the wcxxly core.
3. The flesh can then be CUI as desired.
NUTRITION .m-, Most fruits are quite nutritious. They have a high water content (usually '~
to 95%) and low protein and fat contents, all of which makes them low in calories. They are also an excellent source of fiber, and the sugar comeflld ripe fruits is a good source of ener&'Y. Some fruits, such as citrus, melons aOO strawberries, comain large amounts of vitamin C (which may be destro·)ed. however, by cooking or processing). Deep yellow and green fruits, such a! apriCOts, mangoes and kiwis, arc high in vitamin A; bananas, raisins and ~ are a gcxxl source of potassium.
P URCHASING FRESH FRUm .m-, Fresh fruits have not ~n subjeaed 10 any processing (such as canning. freez. ing or drying), Fresh fruits may be ripe or unripe, depending on their can. tion when harvested or the conditions under which they have been Slored.1II order 10 use fresh fruits 10 their beSt advantage, it is imponam 10 make cartful purchasing decisions. TIle size of each piece of fruit , its grade or quali!. its ripeness on delivery and its nutritional content may affea yourabilitytollSt the fruit in an appropriate and cost-effective manner.
Flwns
.-.
.....
739
NurRITIONAl VAWES OF SElECTED FRmTS Protein
C:lItx)hydr:ttes
Fiber
(8)
(g)
(8)
TOIa] F:n (g)
81
0.3
21.1
3
0.5
74
8
10
159
104
L2
26.4
2
0.4
59.4
6.4
14.2
2')()
94
2.3
22.3
2.1
0.7
8608
113
45
825
49
08
J 1.3
0.7
146
5
13
152
477
5.7
122.2
17.4
2.2
248
2
128
1332
72
0.6
17.8
08
0.6 '
72
10
12
186
3;.6
0.8
89
0.3
<0.1
128
40
13.5
125
56
0.4
14
U
0.4
25
17
8.'
115
340
3.6
89.6
6
0.4
8
4
lOS
852
36
0.8
8
,_.,.
0.4
287
60
19.8
175
KC'J.l
Vitamin A Vitamin C Phosphorous (I.U.) (mg) (mg)
,Vetzer fi.!.1C)'CIOf»dI(l of Food Values 1992
II.d.,,,ure
=:'ilt; traded on the wholesale market may be graded under the USDA's program. TIle gr:tdes, based on size and unifomlity of sha[.W!, color as well as the absence of defects. are U.S. Fancy, U.S. No. I, U.S. 2and U.S. No.3. Most fndLS purchased for food service operations are U.S . . Fruits with lower gr:tdes are suitable for processing into sauces, jams,
"..eral important changes take place in a fruit as it ripens. The fruit reaches
,0.11 ,;"1.,,,: its pulp or flesh becomes soft and tender: its color changes. In ad-
the fruit's acid content declines, making it less tart, and its starch conronl"cns into the sugars frudose and glucose, which provide the fruit's , _'"'""'. na\'or and aram:!.
POIas.sium (mg)
740 ,"""
CIIAPl'hW 25
Unfonunately, lhese changes do not stop when the fruit reaches its peakci ripeness. Rather, they continue, deterioJ"'.lting the fruit's texture and flal'(f. eventually causing s{X)ilage. Depending upon the species, fresh fruilS can be purchased either ripened or unripened. Figs and pineapples, for example, ripen only on the 1M and are harvested al or juSt before their peak of ripeness then rushed to mal" They should not be purchased unripened as they will never allain fuU !larlU' texture after harvesting. On the other hand, some fruits , including bananas. pears, continue to ripen after halVesting and can be purchased unripened. With most harvested fruits , the ripening time as well as the time duti& which the fruits remain at their peak of ripeness can be manipulated. Fll'iIstance, ripening can be delayed by chilling. Chilling slows down the fruit's 0 piration rate (fruitS, like animals, consume oxygen and expel carbon dio= The slower the respiJ"'.ltion rate, the slower the conversion of starch lO sup. For quicker ripening, fruit can be stored at room temperature. Ripening is also affected by ethylene gas, a colorless, odorless hydrocarlq gas. Ethylene gas is naturally emitted by ripening fruits and can be used \omcourage further ripening in most fruits. Apples, tomatoes, melons and banaoaI give off the most ethylene and should be stored away from delicate fruitHi! vegetables, espeCially greens. Fruits that are picked and shipped unripe!llll can be ex{X)sed to ethylene gas to induce ripening just before sale. Com'~ if you want to extend the life of ripe fruits a day or two, isolate them_ other fruits and keep them well chilled . Fresh fruits will nO{ ripen further once they are cooked or processed. 11r cooking or processing method applied, however, may soften the fruits (f »I flavor.
r.-
Purchasing Fresh fruits are sold by weight or by count. They are packed in comainerstferred to as crates, bushels, canons, cases, lugs or flats. The weight or COlI packed in each of these containers varies depending on the type of fruit, de purveyor and the state in which the fruits were packed. For example, Tem citrus is packed in canons equal to 7/ 10 of a bushel; Florida citrus is p
PURCHASING AND STORING PRESERVED FRUm .n-, Preserving techniques are designed to extend the shelf life of fruits in esseatially fresh form. These methods include irradiation, acidulation, cannq, freezing and drying. Except for drying, these techniques do not substantiait' change the fmits ' texture or flavor. Canning and freezing can also be usedlJ preselVe cooked fmilS.
f"RUns
Preserves such as jellies and jams are cooked productS and are disrussed in this chapter.
iflted Fruits described in Chapter 22, Vegetables, some fruilS can be subjected to ionizIldiation to destroy parasites, insedS and bacteria. The treatment also "S ripening without noticeable effed on the fruilS' flavor and texture. Ired fruitS must be labeled "treated with radiation,~ ~trealCd by irradiat ion ~ _ith the symbol shown in Figure 22. 1.
a
, pears, bananas, peaches and other fmits turn brown when cuI. Algh this browning is commonly attributed to exposure to oxygen, i1 is ac'caused by the reaction of enzymes. Enzymatic browning can be retarded by immersing cut fruits in an acidic sosuch as lemon or orange juice. This simple technique is sometimes re10 as acidulation. Soaking fmits in water or lemon juice and water acidulated water) is not recommended. Unless a suffiCient amount of tt sugar is added to the water, the fruits will just become mushy. Bul if salt or sugar is added to retain texture, the flavor will be affected.
flmned Fruits ioost any type of fruit can be canned successfully; pineapple and peaches • the largest sellers. In commercial canning, raw fruits are cleaned and in a sealed container, then subjected to high temperatures for a specific nt of time. Heating destroys the microorganisms that cause spoilage, and sealed environment created by the can eliminates oxidation and retards decrmposition. But the heat required by the canning process also softens the tex1ft of most fruilS. Canning has little or no effect on vitamins A, B, C and 0 use oxygen is not present during the heating process. Canning also has no JllXtical effect on proteins, fals or carbohydr.ltes. In solid pack cans, little or no water is added. The only liquid is from the 'naruml moisture. Water pack cans have water or fruit juice added, which p be taken into account when determining costs. Syrup pack fmits have a syrup-lighl, medium or heavy-added. The syrup should also be taken ikl account when determining food costs, and the additional sweetness be considered when using syrup-packed fruits. Cooked fm it products as pie fillings are also available canned. Canned fruits are purchased in cases of standard-sized cans (see Appendix J). Once a can is opened, any unused contents should be transferred to an appt¢ate storage container and refrigerated. Cans with bulges should be discrded immediately, without opening.
Frozen Fruits fleering is a highly effective method for preserving fmits. It severely inhibits • growth of microorganisms that cause fruits to spoil. Freezing does not defJr1t nulrients, although the appearance or texture of most fruits can be af~ ed bec2use of their high waler content. This occurs when ice crystals bmed from the water in the cells burst the cells' walls.
c"'\!l.
741
742
c~
ClW>'TF.R 25
Many fruits, espeCially berries and apple and pear slices, are now iooi". ally quick frozen OQF). TIlis methocl employs blasts of cold air. refrigetrl;l1 plates, liquid nitrogen. liquid air or other techniques to chill the prt"(bt quickly. By speeding the freezing process, the formation of ice cl)·stals C3lI h: greatly reduced. Fruits can be trimmed and sliced before freezing and are also a\~ frozen in sugar syrup, which adds fl avor and pre\'eniS browning. Berries If frozen whole, while SlOne fmi ts ;Ire lISlllllly peeled, pitted and sliced. frtl purees are also available frozen. Frozen fmits are graded as U.S. Grade A (Fancy), U.S. Grade B (elm ' Extra Standard), or U.S. Grade e (Stand'lrd). TIle uU.S.~ indicates that a:p e rnment inspector has graded the procluct , but packers may use grade ~ without an actual inspection if the contents meet the standards of the gradf indicated. IQF fmits can be purchased in bulk by the case. All froze n fnlits shoold]:( sea led in moisture-proof wrapping and kept at a constant temperature oliff (- IBCe) or below. Temperature flu ctuations Clln ca use freezer burn.
Dried Fruits
Golt/ell Raisins
• • •
Apricots
Apples
Drying is the oldest-known technique for preserving fruits, having been ll~ for more than ;000 years. \\'Then ripe fruits are dried, they lose most d rIk1 moisture. This concentrates their flavors and sugars and dramaticallyextenli shelf life. Although mOst fruits can be dried, plums (prunes), grapes (ram. sultanas and currants), apriCOts and figs are the fruits most commonly m TIle drying methocl can be as simple as le.lving ripe fruits in the sun !O en naturally or the more cosl-efficient technique of passing fruits through 3 ({Irpanme nt of hot, dry air to quickly extract moiSlUre. J Dried fruits actually retain from 16% to 25% residuallD:»ture, which leaves them moist :md soft. TIley are often treated with sulfur dioxide to prevent browning (oxidation) lmd to extend shelf life . Dried fruits may be eaten out of hand; added to cereals or 5.:11ads; baked in muffins. breads, pies or tailS; stewed for chutneys or comPersimmons potes; or used as a SlUffing for roasted meats or poultry. Before use, dried fruits may be softened by soaking them for a short time in a hoi lit uid such as water, wine. rum, brand), or • liquor. Some dried fnLits should be simmered inl small amount of water before use. Store dried frui ts in air-tight containers to]'Rvent furt her rnoiSlUre loss: keep in a dry. cool w away from sunlight. Dried fruits may mold if t'xpaitll to both air and high humidity.
] UlC!NG .n-, Fruit juice is used as a beverage, alone or mixed with other ingredients. aOO as the liquid ingredient in other preparations. Juice Gin be extracted from fruit:; (and some vegetables) in two ways: pressure and blending.
FRUns
Pressure is used to extract juice from fruits such as citrus that have a high
content Pressure is applied by hand-squeezing or with a manual or ream~r. All reamers work on the same principle: A ribbed cone is against the fruit to break down its flesh and release the juice. Always .... ,""" 10 remove seeds, pulp or fibrous pieces. .~ blender or an electric juice extractor can be used to liquify less juicy fru its ~ "'I",btt,es such as apples, carrots, tomatoes, beets and cabbage. The expulverizes the fruit or vegetable, then separates and strains the liquid pulp with centrIfugal force. Imeresting and delicious beverages can be made by combining the juice of R,,,,,,re-fruits or vegetables: Pineapple with orange, apple with cranberry, with tangerine and papaya with orange. Color should be considcreating mixed-juice beverages, however. Some combinations can rather odd color changes. Although yellow and orange juices are not a those containing red :mcl blue flavonoid pigments (such as Concord Pf's, rlhen'''', strawberries, raspberries and blueberries) can create some unor""" "Ocolors. Adding an acid such as lemon juice helps retain the correct and blue hues.
VARiOUS COOKING METHODS ..N-> most fruitS are edible raw and typically served that way, some fruits be cooked. Commonly used cooking methods are broiling and baking, sauteing, deep-frying. poaching, simmering and preserving. tben cooking fruitS, proper care and attention are critical. Even minimal can render fruits overly soft or mushy. To combat this irreversible om" "'g" can be added. When fruits alilf cooked with sugar, the sugar will absorbed slowly into the cells, firming the fruits. Acids (notably lemon help fruits retain their Slruclllre. (Alkalis, such as baking soda, cause to break down more quickly, reducing the fruits 10 mush.)
!lerm:inirzR Doneness 3re so many different fruitS with such varied responses to cooking that one standard for doneness is appropriate. Eacb item should be evaluated artcipe-by-recipe basis. Gener.llly, however, most cooked fruits are done they are JUSt tender when pierced with a fork or the lip of a paring Simmered fruits, such as compotes, should be softer, cooked just to the disintegration. roo can a\'oid overcooking fruitS by remembering that some carryover will occur through the residual heat contained in the foods. Always Iir,,,;,ubiooj"'e tests-sight, fee l, 1:l~If' :lnci aroma-r.lther (han the clock.
n'-/te'al Cooking Metbods are usually broiled or grilled JUSt long enough to caramelize sugars. But must be done quickly in order 10 avoid breaking down the fruits' . Good fmits to broil or grill are pineapples, apples, gr.lpefrui!s, bapersimmons and peaches. TIle fmils may be cut into slices, chunks or appropriate. A coating of sugar, honey or liqueur adds flavor, as do . i ,cinnamon ilnd ginger.
,~ ,
743
JuiCe---Ihe lit/Ilk! e:r1racJ«J from ally fruil or l'tgtIabk.
Nectar-lhe (htulft/, SU'f!flmtrl juice iffN!tUbts, aprlroJs, guaLYIs, bind curmllls or other fruiJs, lheju/c.e if uM u'Quld be /Qo IIJicj or /()() tart 10 drill. straight.
Cider-mildly jermml&l apple juice, allbougb 1I00U1lrobo1ic apple juia mayaist; be labeled dder.
744 '"""
CIIAPlER 25
When broiling fruits, use an oiled sheet pan or broiling platter. i1II grilling fruits, use a clean grill grate or thread the pieces onto skewers. 0Ir thick fruit slices will need to be turned or rolated to heat fully. BrOOed II grilled fruits can be served alone, as an accompaniment to meat, fish or p» uy or as topping for ice creams or custards.
PROCEDURE FOR BROIlING OR GRlUL'G FRUITS 1. Seled ripe fruits and peel, core or slice as necessary. 2. Top with sugar or honey to add flavor and aid caramelization. 3. Place the fruits on the broiler planer, sheet pan or grill gr:lte 4. Broil or grill at high temperatures, turning as necessary to heat the fruits thoroughly but quickly.
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 25.1
BROILED GRAPEFRUIT Yield: 8 SeIVings Ruby grapefruits Sweet sherry Brown sugar
4
4
2 Thsp. 4 Thsp.
30m! 6Om!
1. Cut each grapefruit in half (perpendicular (a the segments), then with a sharp knife, carefully removing any visible seeds. 2. Sprinkle the grapefruit halves with the sheny and sugar. j. Arranjl:e on a baking sheet and place under a preheated broiler. briefly, only until well heated and the sugar caramelizes. Serve inmoe
Baking After washing, peeling, coring or pilling, most pomes, Stone fruits and cats can be baked to create hot, flavorful desserts. Fruits with sturdy skins, ticularly apples and pears, are excellent for baking alone as their skill holds in moisture and flavor. They can also be used as edible I~ filling the cavity left by coring with a variety of sweet or Sa\'ory mixtura Combinations of fruits can also be baked successfully: Try mixing a balance of sweetness and tartness (for example, strawberries with apples with plums). Several baked dessens are simply fru its (fresh , frozen or canned) with a crust (and called a cobbler), strudel (and called a cmmple or batter (and called a buckle). (See Recipe 32.1 8 Blackberry Cobbler.) sometimes poached fi rst, can also be baked in a wrapper of puff ",,"y, ..., dough or phyllo dough to produce an elegant dessert.
c""."..
PROCEDURE FOR BAKING FRUITS 1. Seled ripe but firm fruits and peel, core, pit or slice as necessary. 2. Add sugar or any flaVOrings.
PRUIlS '"""
! 'frap the fmits in pastry dough if desired or directed in {he recipe. , PlKe Ihe fmilS in a baking dish and bake uncovered in a moderate oven until tender or properly browned.
========== ~ ============
--•
••
RECIPE 25.2
BAKED APPLES
r!tld: 8 Servings
.i,pples, Red or Golden Delicious Raisins Orange zest Brown sugar
8
6 oz. I l!2Thsp. 4 oz.
8 170 g 20 g 120 g
/. Rinse and corc each apple. The peels should be scored or partially removed
to allow the pulp to expand without bursting the skin during baking. l Plump the raisins by soaking them in boiling water for 10 minutes. Drain the rnisins thoroughly. 1 Combine the raisins, orange zest and brown sugar. Fill the cavity of each Ipple with this mixture. , Siand the apples in a shallow baking dish . Add enough water 10 measure about 1/2 inch (1.25 cenlimeters) deep. l Bake the apples al 375°F 09O"C) for 15 minUles. Reduce the lemperarure \0 300"F OWC) and continue baking until the apples are tender but slill 00Id their shape, approximalely I hour. Occasionally, baste the apples with lKiuid from the baking dish. W\"IlIIJaI( l-a/ues per apple: Calories 220, TOlat fat 5 g, Salurated fal 0 g, Cholesterol 0 mg, 52 g, Protei n I So vitamin C IS%, Claims-low fat, no cho'"trf 101\. Kldium, good SOUr((: of filx:r
w.m 10 mg, Total carbohydrates
llut/ing fruits develop a rich, syrupy flavor when sauted briefly in butter, sugar and, if !hired, spices or liqueur. Cherries, bananas, apples, pears and pineapples are ~ choices. They should be peeled, cored and seeded as necessary and cut dO uniform-size pieces before sauteing. for dessert, fmilS are sauteed with sugar 10 create a caramelized glaze or \\rup. The fruilS and syrup can be used to fill crepes or 10 lOp spongecakes <J i.'t creams. Liquor may be added and the mi.xture flamed (flambeed) in f:txt cI diners, as with Bananas Foster (Recipe 25.14). fir sa\"Qry mixtures, onions, shallots or garlic are often added. In Ixlth sweet and savory fruit sautes, the fat used should be the most ap)JOpriate for the finished product. Butter and bacon fat are typical choices.
L Peel, pit and core the fru its as necessary and cut into uniform-size pieces. ~Ielt the f:ll in a hot SalLte pan. Add the fnlit pieces and any flavoring ingredients. Do nOI crowd the pan, as !his will cause the fruit to stew in ilS own juices. 4. Cook quickly over high heat.
l
j.
745
746
~
CHAPTER 25 ~
... , ,.a --
RECIPE 25.3
SAVORY FRUIT FOR ROAST PORK
Yield: 1 pt. (500 ml)
"
Onion, fine dice Whole buner or bacon fat ApricOts Apples (tart) or peaches, peeled Granulated sugar Hot paprika Salt and white pepper
3
1)0 g 30 g 3
3
3
4 oz. IT IT
IT IT
6 oz. 1 oz.
120 g
1. Sweat the onions in the buner or bacon fat without browning. 2. Slice the apricots and apples into thin, even pieces. Add the apples [OU onions and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the apricots. 3. Sprinkle the sugar over the fruits and cook, uncovered, over medium I'd until tender. Season with paprika, salt and while pepper. 4. Serve warm as an accompaniment to roast pork. Approximate values per l-oz. C30-g) serving: CaJones 60, Total fal 1.5 g, Saluraled fal l g. CIIob lerol 5 mg, Sodium 50 mg, Total carbohydrates 12 g. Prolein 0 g, Vitamin A 4%. CIai~fIt low cholesterol: low sodium
,. Deep-Frying Few fruits are suitable for deep-frying, Apples, bananas, pears, pineapples am firm peaches mixed in or coated with baner, ho~vever, produce fine resuis. These fruits should be peeled, cored, seeded and cut into evenly sized sOOs or chunks. They may also need to be dried with paper towels so that the bater or coating can adhere . The procedures for deep-frying are found in Chapter 21, Deep-Frying.
Moist-Heat Cooking Methods Poaching One of the more popular cooking methods for fruits is poaching, PoacJq softens and tenderizes fruits and infuses them with additional flavors such 2S spices or wine. Poached fruits can be served hot or cold and used in tans, p;l$' tries or as an accompaniment to meat or poultry dishes, The poaching liquid can be water, wine, liquor or sugar syrup. (As no:ed earlier, sugar helps fruits keep their shape, although it takes longer to tender· ize fruits poached in sugar syrup.) The low poaching temperature (l85°F/851Q allows fruits to soften gradually. The agitation created at higher temperarures would damage them. Cooked fruits should be allowed to cool in the flavored poaching liquid cr syrup. Most poaching liquids can be used repeatedly. If they contain suffidell sugar, they can be reduced to a sallce or glaze to accompany the poached fmits.
,wu"' " FOR POACIIING FRUITS
1 Peel, core and slice the fruits as necessary. In a sufficiently deep, nonreactive saucepan, combine the poaching liquid lusualJ}' waler or wine) with sugar, spices, citrus zest and other ingredients 15 desired or as directed in the recipe. ~e
the fruits in the liquid. Place a circle of parchment paper over !he fruits to help them stay submerged . .. Place the saucepan on th~ IltOve top over a medium-high flame; bring to a boil. S .\ssoon as the liquid boils, reduce the temperature. Simmer gently. Poach umil the fnLits are tcnder enough for the tip of a small knife \0 be easily insened. Cooking time depends on the type of fruit used, its ripeness and the cooking liquid. 1 Remove the saucepan frolll Ihe stove top and allow the liquid and frui ts to cool. RemOl'e the fmilS from the liquid and then refrigerate. The liquid can be relumed 10 the slove lOp and reduced until thick enough to use as a sauce !r glaze or refrigerated for furthe r use.
F===== '-.r.- = = = = = =
•
RECIPE 25.4
P EARS POACHED IN RED WINE NOTE: 'Ibis dish appmrs in lbe 0JapIer ~ing phorograph.
rJdd: 8 Servings
Ripe pears, Anjou or Banlett Zinfandel wine thole peppercorns \'1!IilIa bean Granulated sugar Fresh basil, chopped Zest of one orange
,-
8 52 oz.
8 1500 ml
&-10
&-10 1 340 g
12 oz. I oz.
JOg
, Prel and core the pears, leaving the stems intact.
J Combine the remaining ingredients in a large nonreactive saucepan. Arrange the pears in the liquid in a single layer. J Place the pears on the stove top over a medium-high flame. Bring to just below a boil, then immediately reduce the heat and allow Ihe liquid to simmer gently. Cover with a round of parchment paper if necessary to keep the pears submerged. Continue poaching the pears until tender, approximately 1 to I 1/2 hours. ReDIO\'C the saucepan from the stove and allow the pears to cool in the liquid. i" Remo\'e the pears from the poaching liquid and return the liquid to the !tore top. Reduce until the liquid is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, then strain. , Serve the pears chilled or at room temperature in a pool of the reduced !line syrup. ~te \"31ues
per 7-()l. (230·g) serving: Calorlt'!l 410, Total fat 1.5 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Cho~ C mg, Sodium 3; mg, Toml carbohydratcs 91 g, Protein 6 g, Vitamin A 4<m, Calcium ... ~ II C/lb, Claims-low r~! ; no cholesterol; low sod ium; high fiber
~,
747
748 """
CIW'TER 25
Simmering Simmering techniques are used to make stewed fruits and compotes. frozen, canned and dried fruits can be simmered or stewed. As with any
heat cooking method, simmering softens and tenderizes fruits. The liquid can be water, wine or the juices naturally found in the fruits. Sugar, hm", ,,.
spices may be added as desired. Stewed or simmered fruits can be "o'e(lI". cold, as a first course, a dessen or an accompaniment to meat or poultry PROCEDURE FOR SIMMERING FRIflTS 1. Peel, core, pit and slice the fru its as necessary.
2. Bring the fruits and cooking liquid, if used, to a simmer. Cook until the fruit is tender. 3. Add sugar or other sweeteners as desired or as directed in the recipe.
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 25.5
DRIED FRUIT COMPOTE Y;eId, 2 lb. (1 kg) Dried apricots Prunes, pitted Dried pears or apples Dried peaches Hot water Cinnamon stick Light corn syrup "tointreau
5 oz. 5 oz. 5 oz. 5 oz. 24 oz. 1
12 oz. 2 oz.
150 g ISO g 150 g ISO g nOml I 340 g 60 ml
1. Coarsely chop the fruits. Place the pieces in a nonreactive saucepan add the water and cinnamon stick. 2. Bring the mixture to a Simmer, cover and cook until tender, app"""",,,,! 12- 15 minutes. 3. Add the corn syrup and Cointreau. Simmer uncovered until IhOlOU~Iy , heated. Serve warm or refrigerate for longer storage. ApproxinJale values per l-oz. (3Q..g) 5elVing, Calories 60, ToW fat 0 g, Saturated fat 0 g. o mg, Sodium 15 mg, ToW carbohydrates 15 g, Protein 0 g, Claims----fal free; very low sOOiurn
Concentrate--allo known as ajruil paste or compound, is a redum:I jrnil puree, wi/bout (l gel slru(1ure, used as a jlawring.
Preserving
Fresh fruits can be preserved with sugar if the fruit and sugar mi.xture is centrated by evaporation to the point that microbial spoilage cannot occur. The Jam-a jruiJ gel madefrom fruit pulp and . added sugar also retards the growth of, but does not destroy, microorganisms. sugar. Pectin, a substance present in varying amounts in all fruits, can catIR )elly--a fruit gel made from jruJ juice and cooked fruits to form a semisolid mass known as a gel Fruits that are \"isuaBr sugar. unattractive but otherwise of high quality can be made into gels, which ~ MarmaIade--a citrus jelly lhal also containr more commonly known as jams, jellies, marmalades and presen'es. unpeekd slices of citrus frui!. The essential ingredients of a fruit gel are fruit, pectin, acid (usually lema! juice) and sugar. They must be carefully combined in the correct ratio for !be Preserve-a fruit gel tbal containr large pieces or wb(Jk fruils. gel to form. For fruits with a low pectin content (such as strawberries) 10 fOIl
FRum'
"'"
749
Igd, pectin must be added, either by adding a fmit with a high pectin contill (for example, apples or quinces) or by adding packaged pectin.
ImnuRE FOR MAKING FRUIT PRESERVES Aprlcotjam
1 Clean, peel, core, pit and cut the fruits as necessary. 1 Film fmils should be simmered in water or juice until tender. l .~dd sugar and other flavorings to the fruits as desired o~ as directed in the recipe. , Simmer until the mixture thickens.
~
RECIPE 25.6
Q UlNCE J Mf rlrld: I ql. (! II) fater
Lemon juice Fresh quince Granulaled sugar Vanilla bean
1 ql. 1 oz. 3 lb. 12 oz.
30 ml 1.3 kg 340 g
1/2
1/2
I It
L Combine the water and 112 ounce (15 milliliters) of lemon juice in a large, nonreactive saucepan. 1 Peel, quarter and core the quince. Cut each quarter into small cubes and add to the water. 1 Bring the water to a boil , reduce the heat, cover and simmer until the quince is tender, approximately 30 minu:es. 4. Remove about half the quince with a slotted spoon and set aside. Puree the remaining quince with the cooking liquid. S Rerum the puree and the quince pieces to the saucepan and bring to a simmer. Add the remaining 1/2 ounce (15 milliliters) of lemon juice, the sugar md vanilla bean. , Simmer uncovered, stirring frequently, until the jam holds its shape, approximately 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool over an ice bath. 1fIImmIU1e v;,dues per l-oz. (~g) serving' Calories 70, Total ral 0 g. Satur:aled fal 0 g. Cholcs. . 0 mg, Sodium 0 mg. TOIaI carbohydrales 17 g, PrOldn 0 g, Vllamin C 10%, Claims-no fa1
fijONCLUSION .n-, fruits, whether fresh, frozen, canned or dried, are one of the most versatile lid popular of foods. Fruits can be used uncooked or incorporated into a DIP, salad, bread, meat dish or dessen. When selecting fresh fruits , it is impwnt to consider seasonal availability, storage condilions and ripeness. 1'bm using them, it is important that they be at their peak of ripeness for the best Ila\'or, texture, aroma and appearance.
ApplejelJy
-
Orange Marmalade
750 '""" c/IAmR 25
, r?2UESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION
.N-,
J. Define ripeness and explain why ripe fru its are most desirable. How 000 the ripening process affect the availability of some fruiLS? 2. Describe the proper storage conditions for most fru its. \,(fhich fruits emi
ethylene gas, and why is this a consideration when storing fruits? 3. Explain why some apple varieties are preferred for cooking, while other varieties arc preferred for eating. Which variety is generally preferred fer making applesauce? 4. Which types at fruits are best for dry-heat cooking methods? Explain)'OOl' answer. Why is sugar usually added when cooking any type of fruit? 5. Usl and describe three ways to prepare fru its for extended slOrage.
r
r;;{nDmONAL FRUrr RECIPES
.N-,
RECIPE 25.7
TROPICAL FRUIT WITH PASSION FRUIT P UREE CAMPTON PlACE RESTAURANT, KEMPINSKI HOTELS, SAN FRA.'iClSOO, CA
Former Executive Cbe/Jan Bimballlll
Yield: 6 Servings Mangoes Papayas lkazilian red bananas Fresh coconut Lime Cherimoya (optional) Guavas Pineapple, medium, trimmed Passion fruit Sugar Honey Raspberries Blackberries
2 2 2 I I I 2 1/3 12 4oz, 6 oz. as needed as needed
2 2 2 I I I 2
1/3 12 120 g l80g as needed as needed
1. Trim, peel and slice or cut all the fruit , except the passion fruit, into iMt· csting shapes. Iioid in the Idl'igemlor for service. 2, Cut the passion fruit in half and scoop out the seeds and membrane intO I nonreactive saucepan. Add any fleshy trimmings from the mango. papa)l guava and pineapple. Add the sugar and honey and cook to a sauce C(JI. sistency. Strain and cool. 3. Ladle 1 112 ounces (45 milliliters) of the sauce onto a cold plate or IxlIIt Arrange the sliced fruit attractively on the sallce. Garnish with raspbem:s and blackberries . .... pproxiffi
FRUflS
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 25.8
FIGS WITH BERRIES AND HONEY MOUSSE GREENS Rt:srAURAt\'T, SA.1i FRA.'mCO, c.>\
Execulit-e ChefAn"ie Somerville Yidd: 4 Servings
Raspberries or blackberries fresh figs such as Black Mission, Kadola or Calmyrna
1 pt.
450 ml
1 pt.
450 ml
Honey
6 oz.
170g
Egg yolks
4
4
Sail
IT
IT
Heavy cream Fresh mint
1 pt. 450 ml as needed for garnish
1 Pick through the berries, bUI do n01 rinse them because water will dilute their navor. 1 Rinse the figs and cut them in half, leaving the stem attached. 1 To make the mousse, whisk the honey, yolks and salt together in a bowl OI'er a pan of barely simmering water. Whisk the mixture continuously for
8 minutes. Afler 5 minutes, !.he mousse will begin to thicken and the texture will become creamy. Whisk vigorously umil the mousse leaves thick
riIbJns on irs surface when poured over itself. Sel aside to cool. The texof Ihe cooled mousse will be stiff and Sticky. 4. i'hisk 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) of cream into the mousse, working it until it loosens. 1 Whip the remaining cream unUl it is firm , fold it into the mousse until it is PJSi incorporJted, then whisk the two together. The texture will be light 300 creamy. , Loosely arrange the figs on a platter, sprinkle with the berries, garnish with mint and serve with lhe mousse. lUre
~Ie
\'llues per serving: Calo rles 680, Total fal 47 g. Saturated fat 28 g, Cho lesterol 370 mg,
tI6Io 200 mg. Totat carboh),drates 57 g, Pro tein 6 g, Vitamin A 6Cm, Vitamin C 25%
=========== ~ ============
a.•
RECIPE 25.9
PINEAPPLE PAP.rut SAlSA
lidd: 2 qt. (2 It) Tomatoes
Pine:Jpple, fresh Papaya, fresh Green onions, sliced Fresh cilantro, chopped Jalapenos, seeded, minced kmon juice Garlic, chopped SoIl
3
3
I bunch 1 bunch 2 3lbsp. 1 tsp.
1 bunch 1 bunch 2
2 {Sp.
10 011
45 ml 5 ml
Continued
~
751
752 '""" C!W'lER 25 1. Core and dice (he (omaloes. 2. Peel and dice the pineapple. 3. Peel, seed and dice the papaya. 4. Combine all the ingredients and chill well. Approxim:'lIe ""lues per ]-()l. (6().g) serving: Calories 25. Total fat 0 g. Satunoted far 0 II. 0rIab lero] 0 mg. Sodium 330 mg, Total carbohydrates 5 g, Prolein 0 g, Vitamin C 45%. cw.--6t free; low calorie
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 25. 10
TROPICAL FRUIT SAlAD WITH YOGURT D RESSING Yield: 4 Small Salads Mango, cut into I/2-in. (12-mm) cubes Pineapple, cut into l/2-in. 02-mm) cubes Papaya, cut into l/2-in. (12-111fli) cubes Grapefruit segments Pineapple or grapefruit juice Plain, nonfat yogurt Honey Fresh lime juice Butterhead lettuce, large leaves, separated and cleaned Kiwi, peeled and sliced Poppy seeds
6 oz.
170 g
6 oz.
170 g
4 oz.
120 g 16 60ml 120 g
16 2 oz. 4 oz. 2 Thsp. 1 Thsp.
30m]
15 ml
4
4
I tsp.
5 ml
1. Mix the mango, pineapple, papaya and grapefruit together with the pineap-
ple or grapefruit juice. 2. To make the dressing, whisk the yogurt, honey and lime juice together. 3. Line the plates with the butterhead lettuce. Arrange the kiwi slices and. fruit salad over the lettuce. 4. Drizzle the dressing over the fruits and tOp with poppy seeds. Approximate values per 8-oz, (IDg) sclVing: Calorie!! 170, Total fal l g, Satunoted fat 0 So <WIlerol 0 mg, Sodium 30 mg, Total earbohydrate!! 38 g, Prote in 3 g. Vitamin A ~ \~, 1S(M. ~ fat; no cholesterol; \'eI')' low sodium; good SOUIt'I.' of fiber
============ ~ ===========
RECIPE 25.11
GRATIN OF FRESH BERRIES WITH
CmfE
FRAlCHE
Yield: 1 Serving Assorted fresh berries, such as raspberries, blueberries and blackberries Creme fraiche
4 oz. 2 oz.
120 g 60ml
FRUIIS "'"
1 tsp. 1 lbsp .
5 ml 15 ml
• •"""1' the berries in an even layer in a shallow, heat-proof serving dish. 1 Stir the creme frakhe and orange liqueur together. Spoon this mixture over the berries. the brown sugar over the creme. Place under a broiler or salamander just until the sugar melts. Serve immediately. I.~-:~~~~:; 5el"lling: i ~~
Calories 210, Total fat 7 g, Sarur.ued ral 4 g, Choleslerot 20 mg, carbohydrates 33 g, Protein 3 g, Vitamin C 40%, Claims-very low sodium:
=========== ~ ============
A
RECIPE 25.12
GRILLED FRUIT KEBABS
fldd: 8 Skewers
Cantaloupe
6 oz.
Honeydew melon
6oz. 6oz. S 2 oz. 4 oz.
Pineapple Sttawberries Brown sugar Lime juice Cinnamon, ground
1/4 ISp.
170g 170 g 170 g S
60g 120 ml 1 ml
I' Remove the rind and cut the melons and pineapple into 1-inch C2.5-centimeter) cubes. Hull the strawberries and leave whole. To make the sugar glaze, combine the sugar, lime juice and cinnamon, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Heat the grill and clean the grate thoroughly. Thread the fruits onto kebab skewers, alternating colors for an attractive appearance. Brush the fruits with the sugar gtaze. Grill, rotating the skewers frequently to develop an evenly light brown surface. Serve immediately as an appetizer, a garnish for ice cream or an accompaniment to rich meats such as pork or lamb.
11 J. ,
J ,
-
t_",NO
°
°
values per skewer: Calories 70, Total rat g, SalUraled ral 0 g, Choll!8tuol mg, ,.... 10 mg, Total carbohydrates 16 g, Proldn ! g, Vitamin C ~ Cia1mol--fal free; \'ery low
t========== ~ ========~== RECIPE 25.13
CHERRY CONFIT Yodd, 4 oz. (120 g) Red onion, small dice tboIe buner Dried cherries
3 oz.
Brandy
1 lbsp.
2lbsp. 2 tsp.
30 ml
IOmi 90g 15 ml Continued
753
754 '"""
CIIAPl'EJI 25
JThsp. 1/2 tsp.
Port
Sherry vinegar
15 ml 3ml
1. Saute the onions in butler without coloring. 2. Add the cherries. Add the brandy and flambe. j. Add the pon and sherry vinegar; cook until almost dry. Serve warm crl
room temperature with charcuterie items, or grilled or roasted meats. Approximate I'alues per l -oz. (33-g) serving' Calories 35, Total fat 2 g, Saturated fat I g, Cbob Icrol 5 mg, Sodium 2Q mg, Tota] carbohydrates 3 g, Protein 0 g, Cbhns-low fit \~ br sodium; low calorie
= = = = = = = ,"""" RECiPE 25. 14
BANANAS FOSTER Bcmanas Foster Is all A merican classic, created ill New Orleans dllrill8
the 1950s allti named for a local celebrity. II Is uSLIally prepared Jot
Cltstomers rablesitle, !Ising a porlable bllmer knowll as a ticbaud. Yield: I Sen'ing
Banana, medium Unsalted butter Brown sugar Fresh orange juice Dark rum Brandy or creme de banana
Cinnamon Vanilla ice cream
I
112 oz. 112 oz. 1 oz.
1/2 oz. 1/2 oz. IT
1 portion
15 g 15 g 30 ml 15 m) 15 ml IT 1 portion
1. Peel the banana and cut in half lengthwise. Cut each half imo three chura
me.
and set aside. 2. r-,'Ielt the butter in a saute pan. Add the brown sugar and stir until melts. 3. Add the bananas and stir to coat them completely with the sauce. Oxt until lender, approximately 1-2 minutes. 4. Stir in the orange juice. Add the rum and brandy, then name the tnixlu1e Sprinkle the cinnamon onto the bananas. 5. When the flames die, spoon the b:manas and sauce over the ice serve immediately.
cream.
Approximate values per serving: Calories 570. TOla1 fal 28 g. Saturaled fal 17 g, Cho!estero] 100. Sodi um 90 mg, Tota l carbohydrates 72 g. Prolein 8 g, Vitam in A 25%, VItamin C 4CIIl C~ low sodium, good souret' of fiber
RECIPE 25. 15
B ANANA FRl1TERS Yield: 40 Fritters Egg, beaten Milk Unsalted butter, melted Vanilla extract
80z. 2 oz. 1 tsp.
I 2;0 mI
60& 5ml
FFWns
2 Thsp.
Orange zest, finely grated Orange juice R.1le banana, large Pastry f)OIJr, sifted Gtanulated sugar II.:lking powder
2 oz.
30 ml 60 ml
I
I
12 oz. 4 oz.
340 g 120 g 1 lbsp. I, ml 1/2 (Sp. 2 ml as needed for garnish
s.JJ
Confectioner's sugar
1 Vrltisk together the egg, milk, butter and vanilla. Add the orange zest and juice.
1 Peel and dice the banana and add to the egg mLxture. J Sift together the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder and salt. Gently stir in the banana-egg mixtllre to form a thick batter. 4. Heat deep-fryer oil to 3,O°F (180°C). Fry I-tablespoon O,-milliliter) portions of the batter until the fritters are brown and crisp, approximately, minutes. 1 Drain on paper towels, dust with confectioner's sugar and serve hot. I._~ ":ilucs per frine~ Calorics 60. Total fat 1.5 g, Satunned fat I g, Cholesterol 10 mg, ..... 3S mg, Tood carboh)'drates JIg, Protein I g
I============ ~ ============= RECIPE 25.16
LEAIONCVRD ' kid: 1 1/2 qt. (I.5 It) Whole eggs Egg }'olks Granulated sugar t:nsaJted butter, cubed lemon zest fresh lemon juice
12 4
12 4
2Ib. 900g 4,0 g lib. from 8 lemons from 8 lemons 12 oz. 340 ml
J. Whisk c\"erything together in a large bowl. 1 Place the bowl over a pan of simmering water and cook, stirring frequently, until very thick, approximately 20--2, minutes. J $(rain, cover and chill completely. Serve with scones or use as a filling for tartlets or layer cakes. e '":Ilues per t-(l~. (3O-g) 5ClViog; Calories 170, TotaJ fat 9 g, saturated fat 5 g, Choles.... Wmg, Sodium 20 mg, TotaJ carbohrdratcs 20 g, Protein 2 g, Vitamin A 10%
I======= '~
•
======
RECIPE 25. 17
BRAISED RHUBARB
r.ld, 10 lb. (4.5 kg) Tart green apples, peeled and cubed Rhubarb, IQF pieces Unsalted bUller
21b. 8 oz. 7 lb.
4 oz.
1.1 kg 3.2 kg 120 g
Continued
~
755
756 '"""
CIIAPlEJ/ 25
Sweet white wine Brown sugar
80z,
Vanilla extract
2 tsp. 1 Thsp.
14 oz.
Cinnamon Nutmeg Orange juice
2 oz.
Sal!
1/2
1/4
~p. ~p.
250 ml 400g 10m! 15 mI I ml 60 ml 2 ml
1. Saute the apples and rhubarb in the butter until they begin to soften. 2. Add the wine and reduce by half. Add the remaining ingredients. S_ until the rhubarb is very tender. j. Serve at room temperature in prebakcd pastry cups, lOpped with ere. chantilly or serve warm over ice cream. Approximate values per 1-oz. C29-g) serving: calories 60, Total fat 2 g, Salunted bt _5 & <1IIb ternl 0 mg. SOdiu m 2S mg, Total carbohydrates II g, Protein 0 g. Claims-to ..., fal; no cIdaIcd very low sodium
============ ~ ===========
...
--~.
RECIPE 25. 18
BERRY COMPOTE
Ykld: I pt. (450 ml) Berries, fresh or frozen Granulated sugar
I pt. 4 oz.
500 ml
Oranges, juice and zest
2 3 oz.
2
Honey Cinnamon stick
Brandy
120 g
90g
I
I
3 Thsp.
45 ml
1. Select an assortment of fresh or frozen berries-strawberries, blueberTQ raspberries, blackberries and cherries can be used, depending on 1\1t ability. 2. Place the fruits and sugar in a nonreactive saucepan. Add the juice fq the rwo oranges. Bring to a simmer over low heat; cook until the fnuts. soft but still intact. 3. Strain the mixture, saving both the fruits and the liquid. RelUm to the saucepan. Add the finely grated zest from one orange, the horrf; cinnamon and brandy. 4. Bring to a boil and reduce until the mixture thickens enough to call dr back of a spoon. Remove from the heal and cool 10 room tcmperatllJt. 5. Gently stir the reserved fruits inlO the sauce, cover and chill.
the.
Approximate Y;Ilues per 1-02. (3().g) SCl'Ving: Cakllies 70, Tow fat 0 g, Saturated fat 0 g. a.. terol 0 mg, Sodium 0 mg, Total carbohydrates 16 g, Protein 0 g, Vitamin C IS%, Claim:s-faIfI:t no sodium
============ ~ ===========
...
•4::'
RECIPE 25. 19
APPLESAUCE
Yield: 1 qt. (I It)
Mcintosh apples Cinnamon sticks
4 lb. 2
1.8 g 2
FRUns
Gnnulated sugar lemon juice
5 oz. 1 Thsp.
150 g 15 ml
1 Peel, core and quarter the apples. Place in a saucepan with just enough cdd water to cover the bottom of the pan. Add the cinnamon sticks. 1 Bring to a simmer, cover and cook until the apples are tender, approxim:ltely IS minutes. 1 Add the sugar and lemon juice. Simmer for 10 minutes. t Remove the cinnamon sticks and press the apples through a food mill. '1.00 per l..:n_ GO-g) serving, Calories 50, Total fat 0 g. Saturated fal 0 g, Choles0 .... SOdium 0 mg, Total carboh)'d rate5 13 g, J>ro(cin 0 g, CJaim.s.-----fat free; flO sodium
F========== ~ ============ RECIPE 25.20
FRESH CRANBERRy-ORANGE SAUCE fdd:)ql. () It)
Granu13ted sugar Orange juice 1';uer
Fresh or frozen cranberries Onnamon stick Orange liqueur Onnge zest, finely grated Orange segments
1 lb.
450 g
4 oz. 8 oz. 1 lb. 8 oz.
120 ml 225 ml 700 g
1
1 60ml 30ml 20
2 oz. 21bsp. 20
1 Combine the sugar, juice and water in a nonreactive saucepan; bring to a OO~.
1 Add the cranberries and cinnamon stick and simmer uncovered until the berries begin to burst, approximately 15 minutes. Skim off any foam that rises to the surface. Add the orange liqueur and zest and simmer for another 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and remove the cinnamon stick. Add the orange segments. Cool and refrigerate . . ._~ I1lues per l-oz. (;ZO..g) serving, Calories 25. Total fat 0 g, Saturated rat 0 g. Choks . o mg. SOdium 0 mg, Total carboh)·d.f'lItes 6 g. Prote in 0 g, Claim!l--fal free; flO sodium; low
~========= ~ ======== RECIPE 25. 21
MANGO CHC!I'NEY fdd: 1 1/2 ql. (] 1/2 It) Mango, peeled and diced
Onion, fine dice Garlic cloves, minced Cider vinegar DaJk brown sugar Golden raisins Cr}mlli2ed ginger
2 lb. 4 oz. 2 8 oz. 8 oz. 2 1/2 oz. 4 oz.
900g 120 g
2 250 mI 250 g 75 g 120 g Contin ued
'"""
757
758
"'\!I
CHAP!'ER 25
Salt Cinnamon sticks Red pepper flakes fo.'itlstard seeds Fresh ginger Lime juice
112 tsp. 2
112 !Sp. 1/ 2 tsp. 1 tsp. I oz.
2 ml 2 2 ml 2011 5 Illi 30 ml
}, Combine the mango, onion, garlic, vinegar and sugar in a large, saucepan. Cook until the sugar dissolves. 2. Stir in the raisins, crystallized ginger, salt and spices. Simmer until Dr onions and raisins are very soft, approximately 45 minutes. Skim foomful the surface as necessary. 3. Stir in the lime juice and adjust the seasonings. 4. Remove from the heat and cool uncovered. The chutney will thicken Sillr' what as it cools but should be thinner than fruit preserves. Approximate values per l-oz. (36..g) serving; (alorics ;0, TOlal fal 0 g, Saturaled fat 0 g. (lob lerol O mg, Sodium 30 mg, Total carbo hydratcs t2 g, Protein 0 g. Vitamin C 1()%. CJaimI..II free; very low sodium
====== '~ ====== I RECIPE 25.22 ... SWEET ORANGE MARMAlADE = Yield : 1 1/4 qt. 1/ 4 It) ~-
(l
Lemon Valencia oranges Water Granulated sugar
1
1
4 as needed as needed
4 as needed as needed
1. Cut the lemon and oranges in half lengthwise, then slice vel)' thinly. lito
move all seeds. Measure the volume of the fruits and then place them illl nonreactive pan. Add 12 ounces 060 milliliters) of cold water for eachClf of fruit and aUow to soak for several hours or overnight. 2, Place the fruits and water in a heavy saucepan and bring to a bo~ \Mf medium-high heat. Allow to boil gently for 2 hours. Skim foam from dr surface as necessary. 3. Remeasure the volume of fruit and liquid , Add 6 ounces (I80 gramsld sugar for each cup of the boiled fruit and liquid. Return 10 Ihe stove mf boil until the temperature reaches 21 8°F (103°C), approximately 30 m&ules. Remove from heat and cool uncovered. Approximate values per !-oz. (24-g) serving: Calories 25. Total fal 0 g. Saturaled fal 0 g. CbDIIt lerol O mg, Sodi um 0 mg, Total carbohydrales 6 g, Protein 0 g, Vitamin C 10%, Clalms-bt bl: no sodium; low calorie
HAPTER
26
=== ~ === After studying this chapter, you will be able to:
...et. select high-quality sandwich inc"1a.
("\!\"
gredients identify different types and styles of sandwiches prepare sandwiches to order
sandwich is often the first meal a person leanlS. prepare. Even those who claim to be unable to cook often makeddiGiOllS bot and cold sandwiches without cousideriflg it cooking. M~ ten"ng a grilled cheese sandwich or assembling tbe qllintesse1llial Bl1 may not require a degree;1/ the culinmy mts, but it does requiredlt
ability to select and use ingredients wisely. Sandwiches, which are Itsually quick and easy to assemble, ItIM themselves well to a cbefs creativity. Fancy sandwiches call becCllflt
sensationai menu additions in even the most formal restaurants anJ amazing sandwiches can keep lunch customers visiting regula~
Sandwiches offer/ood selvice operations economical oPPOrllllliliesp using leftovers and offer CIIstomers, especially those with smaflerbudgets or appetites, meals to eat Ollt of hand. '!bus, the ability to at· rectly prepare hot and cold sandwiches to order is a fimdametUi skill in many food selvice operations.
INGREDIENlS FOR SANDWICHES .P.?-
fill.
Sandwiches are construaed from bread, a spread and one or more These components should be selected and combined carefully so that the r.. ished sandwich is flavorful and visually appealing.
Bread Bread provides more than a convenient means for handling a sandwid\. t holds or contains the spread and fillings and gives the sandwich its ~ Bread also adds flavor, texture, nutrition and color, and often deterrninesw overall look of the finished product. Health consciousness and consu mer willingness to try new and unUSl."i foods gives today's chefs the freedom to create sandwiches without rel)'in.gCl two slices of white bread. Virtually any bread can be used in sandwich rna. ing: rolls, biscuits, bagels, croissants, fruit and nut breads, whole grain tred and savory breads as well as flatbreads such as naan, lavosh and tortilla. pocket breads such as pitas and flavorful breads such as focaccia and SweQi limpa. Whatever bread is used and whether its flavor is mild or intense, the bioi should complement the fillings and not overpower them. The bread should I:t fresh (although day-old bread is easier to slice and is excellent toasted) andil texture should be able ( 0 withstand moisture from the spread and fillings~. out becoming soggy or pasty. An overly hard or crusty bread, howe\'er, !III' make the sandwich difficult (0 eat.
Spread A spread is used to add flavor, moisture and richness to the sandwich mi sometimes, it helps hold or bind it together. Some spreads, especially plain tt flavored butters, also act as a ba rrier to prevent the moisture in the filling m. soaking into the bread.
SANDrNCHES '""'"
~ ====== HERO WORSHIP IIDericans lot¥! sandwiches-not only the . . d~ics, but larger-thlfl-life regional IIItrpieceS that go by colorful, often interdIapIe names: hoagies, submarines, hea mI so 00. l\~ e\'efl heard them called ~ ~ after the Bumstead of comics ... who makes his monumental sandwiches 11 ~ middle of the night, invariably with a ;eriSIIoiSs cheese hanging o\~r the side and • ol~ on a toothpick spear. They're "hoats" in my native Philadelphia, supposedly .. !be flog Island shipyard, where Italian ate big stuffed sandwiches during IrkIll'ar l. "Submarine" was coined in the III war, it is said, at a Connecticut submarine aAsaOO\l.ich is a "hero" when it's so huge lites a hero to eat it-this from food jour... Clementine Paddleford, writing in the IfJJs aOOut Nell' York's Manganaro's deli. ~ it IIonat you like, and make Yrnat you ,. ~ it DagM.xxI puIS e\'erything but the ~ sink in his sandwich. Manganaro's
.am
still fills ilS version to the brim Yrith Italian antipasti--mea1S, cheeses, peppers, lettuce and tomatoes. In my hornetoI\T1, e\'el)'thing's optional but the Italian bread, lettuce, tomato, onion and salad oil. N"ev; Englanders eat something called a "grinder," a hero stuffed with hot meatballs, sausage and peppe~ \'eal pannigiana or the like. These are aptly named and a real Yr"OrkOlll for the jaw! Nev; Orleans has two big sandwiches: tlle round muffuletta, dressed in garlicky green-oli\'C salad and the wanning po' boy, which is often soaked in grd.\/)'. Cuban immigrants press ham, roast pork, cheese and sweet pickles between slabs of French bread in aplallcha, a kind of sandwich iron. But perhaps you have a better idea. Try it! Gi\~ it a jaunty title and who knows-perhaps both the recipe and its name will live on. From
SHF.Jl.4 LIMNS ~ C~
by W~
SHEILA LulJNS
PUBIJSJIING, 1997
There are three principal spreads: &mer-Onc of the most common spreads, plain butter adds flavor and
00mess; it is also an excellent moisture barrier. Flavored or compound butters, Iilcu.ssed in Chapter 10, Stocks and Sauces, make excellent sandwich spreads, PIing flavor dimensions 10 the finished product. For example, try caper butt! on a Cajun-style blacke ned bee f sandwich or a red chile honey butter on unoked lurkey sandwich, Any butter spread should be softened o r whipped ~thal it will spread easily without tearing the bread. ~I.a)'onnaisc-Pcrhaps the mOst popular sandwich spread, mayonnaise adds IXlisrure, richness and flavor and complements most meat, poultry, fish, shell-
ish, I'egetablc, egg and cheese fillings. Like butter, mayonnaise can be made Wlre exciting by adding fl avoring ingredients. CondimenLS (for example, rouse-graincd mustard or grated horseradish), herbs, spices and spice blends Ib example, curry or chilli powder) and other ingredients such as sun-dried tmatoes and pesta sauce can be stirred into fresh or commercially prepared lIa)"Orulaise. Fresh mayonnaise can also be prepared with flavored oils, such Jl,o!i\'e oil, walnut oil or chile oil. See Chapler 24, Salads and Salad Dressings, ir rropes and additional info rmation on mayonnaise. \t'getable pur("Cs-Pureed vegetables are often used as sandwich spreads; IIer all, lunch boxes everywhere would be incomplete without a puree of lDlSIed peanuLS (more commonly known as pe'.lnut buner) and fmit jelly. ~ sophisticated examples include finely chopped black olives flavored with IR:sh thyme, oregano and a few drops of olive oil for a sandwich of Italian IlfaIS and cheeses, or a well-seasoned chickpea puree with lemon and tahini paste for a vegetarian sandwich. Unlike butter, vegetable purees usually will III provide a moisture barrier between the bread and the fillings.
763
764
~
CHAPTER 26
Filling
~
SANDWlaI SANITATION
Sandwiches, whether hot or cold, present a particularly dangerous environment for the spread of food·bome illncsscs. The use of pra::ooked, high·protein foods, the combination of hot and cold ingredients and the presence of uncooked egg; in spreads such as ma),onnaise offer bacteria aUracth'C homes. Cross-rontamination can be an especially common problem because of the repeated use of spatulas, spreaders, scales, knives, cut· ling boan:Is and, deadliest of all, human hands. Take extra care to wash hands fre· quemly and to clean ...:ork surfaces and tools with a sanitizer often during service. The cardinal rule for proper food handling applies as ,,"'CIl: Keep hoi foods bot, keep cold foods cold. Review Chapter 2, Food Safety and Sanitation, for further Information.
The filling is the body of the sandwich, providing most of its fla\"Or. AsaIdwich often contains more than one filling. For example, the filling in a RIll'Id sandwich is corned beef, cheese and sauerkraut, while in a BLT it is baral. lettuce and tomato. Fillings for cold sandWiches must be precooked and JXqlerly chilled although some hot sandwich fillings IlL1y be cooked to order. When choosing fillings, be sure that the flavors complemem each. (Xba Their textures may be similar or contrasting. If an ingredient, such as Iernxt. is supposed to be crisp, it should be very crisp, not limp. If an ingrediert I supposed to be tender and moist , make sure it is so. Improperly prepared. poor-quality or mishandled filling ingredients can ruin an otherwise w()!l(\erfg sandwich. Popular fillings include: Beef-Although the classic hot beef sandwich is the hamburger, other M or cold beef products are commonly used. For example, hOI or cold smaI steaks, slices of larger cuts such as the tenderloin, thin ~lice~ of roast beef, am SO on, make excellent fillings. Also popular are hot or cold ~lices of cured bed" products, including corned beef, pastrami and tongue as well as beef sausages such as salami, bologna and hot dogs. Pork-Various ham and bacon produas, served either hot or cold, are e:t. tremely popular. In addition, pork loin and tenderloin are light, while IIlffS that adapt well to various flavor combinations and cooking methods. ~ cued pork, pork sausages and pork hot dogs are also popular. Poultry-Sliced turkey breast, either roasted or smoked, and processed rurkey are often used in hOI and cold sandWiches. Moreover, food su/:Qj. rutes such as turkey bologna , IUrkey pastrami, turkey hO( dogs and twkt! ham, are becoming increasingly popular because they generally 11:111' J lower fat content than the beef or pork original. Boneless chicken breast. either sliced or whole, is also quite popular because it can be prepared b)., variety of methods, complements a broad range of flavors and has a rebtively low fat coment. Fish and shellfish-Although fried fish fillets are an old standard, grilled Iii sandwiches are gaining in popularity. Canned fish products, particularly tuna and S<1Imon, are also widely used. Often fish and shellfish, especially runa. shrimp and crab, are used for mayonnaise-ba~ed bound salads. Sardines am anchovies are less popular than other fish, but are sometimes mixed iI10 bound salads or arranged artistically on open-faced ~andwiches. Vegetables-Vegetables add texture, moisture, flavor and nutrition to IlIQl any sandwich. Fresh vegetables such as lelluce, onions and tomatoes art commonly used in combination with meat, cheese and other fillings. Vegeu. bles, however, can stand on their own as sandwich fillings. Marinated, grilbI vegetables can be used in hot or cold sa ndWiches, and a combinalioo d sliced, fresh vegetables and a flavorful dressing wrapped in soft lavosh er, tortilla becomes a ponable salad. Eggs-Hard-cooked eggs are most often used as an ingredient in a 1Ila}'OOnaise-based salad, where they are chopped and combined with pickle reIisII and seasonings. Hard-cooked eggs can also be sliced thin and used as 3lIltractive garnish on open-faced sandwiches. fried or scrambled eggs CIJl Jr layered between pieces of bread or rolled in a tortilla for a breakfast sandv,d Cheese-Cheese is available in such a variety of textures, flavors, colors mi styles that it is a welcome addition to nearly any sandwich. Sliced cheese 011 be used as a filling in hot or cold sandwiches, and melted cheese or a em sauce makes an excellent topping for hot open-faced sandwiches. Flaratd cream chee~e is also used as a spread or filling, particularly with bagels ml fruit or nut breads.
SANDWlCH£S ....,..
Boond salads-Protein salads bound with mayonnaise or salad dressing are
I"
sandwich fillings. Examples include chicken, (una, egg and ham sai· 'JUn< salads are discussed in Chaple r 24, Salads and Salad Dressings.
OF SANDWICHES .n-,
II
~::~: can be hot or cold, dosed or open-faced, depending on Ihe way
the ingredienlS are assembled and presented.
include those in which the filling ingredients are
I ,ned hm" such as a hamburger or hot dog, and those where the entire &1ndis heated for service, sllch as a grilled cheese or Monle Cristo. Hot closed
I,m"'ich"
can be categorized as basic, grilled or deep-fried.
Basic hOI closed sandwiches are generally those in which the principal fillisseryed hot between \wo pieces of bread. These sandwiches may also in-
=: I I
fillings thai are n01 hot, sllch as tomato slices and lettuce leaves. Variathe basic hot closed sandwich include lacos, quesadillas, burros (or and wraps, in which the hot and/or cold fillings are folded or in a tonilla or other supple flatbread.
I llXIllURE FOR
PREPARlNG WRAP SANDWlCHFS
l The tonilla is topped with a spread or dressing.
2. Vegetables and meat, fish or paullry ilems are mounded across the tortilla.
3. The tortilla is rolled lightly around Ihe filling.
765
766
.~ .
C1MPTER 26
Cooking grilled cheese sand\\"icbb.
r----------.. . Trim crusl$Jrom IUr)
,,
,
pieces ofIOOSled hrMtl.
~----------'-
,,
Cui QI~ piece dItIgOIlII1Iy.
,,
,
L/
Ammge Irimnu.'II, cul/()(IS/ (m pill/e.
Grilled sandwiches arc those in which the filling is placed belwet'l1 pieces of bread, which are buttered on the oul.side and then browned III griddle or in a saute pan. TIle filling will be warmed during this procedure will not cook. Therefore, fillings such as bacon or sliced meat should td cooked before the 5.1ndwich is assembled ,mel grilled. Deep-fn"ed sandwiches are made by dipping a closed sandwich in ~ ter or bread crumbs and then deep-frying it. The most common exanl!* the Monte Cristo: white bread filled with sliced h:1I11, Swiss cheese and mustard. TIle hot open-faced turkey or steak sandwich proved long ago lhat wiches do nO{ need to be eaten by hand. In the typical hot open-faced_ wich, bread (grilled, to.1sted or fresh) is placed on a serving plate. COIt1l with hot meat or other filling :Ind toppc...">(] with an appropriate gr:t\)", S31.kl' cheese. The completed dish is often browned under a broiler before
Cold Sandwiches 10)' mliin {"grell/tml 0I<er1()(1$1. EX: baco", roost ~f, sliced III~'.
0Jt'f"l' lI"itb cbeeu Of" SII~ (md iJerJl.
FIGURE 26.1 Ammgillg 1101 Opel/-Faced SlIIuJUlic/Jes.
Cold sandwiches a TC simply sandwiches that are eaten cold. The}' are I1U with raw ingredients that arc not intended to be cooked, such as \"egeul"and cheese, or with meat, poultry, fish or shellfish Ihal is prerooked th. chilled before use as a filling. As with hot sandwiches, cold sandwiches 1m be closed or open-faced. Cold dosed sandwiches are those that contain two or more p~ bread with one or more fillings and one or more spreads. Cold dosed wiches are usually ealen with the h:tnds and come in three basic style<;: lIN muhidecker and tea. Basic cold sandwiches are m:tde with two pieces of bread or one spIiI one spread and one or more fillings. A tuna salad sandwich or an ltalian-~ submarine are both examples of basic cold dosed sandwiches. A I-ana.. of the basic cold sandwich is a wntp with cold fillings, for example, an b:n. flavored lonilla spread with peanut 5."luce and wrJPped :tround spinach kall;' diced grilled chicken and cold cookt>
SWD07CHES
1~lIIIlijRE
"""
767
FOR PREPARING COLD MULTIDECKER SANDWICHES
TnI' first slice of toasted bread is sprtad with buner or mayonnaise, then topped with meat and Itgetables.
J, .~ second layer of vegetables and meat is added.
2. l11C second slice of bread is added, then spread with mayonnaise.
4. TIle fi nished sandwich is Clit into quarters for service.
11========= """" = = = = = = = = = = HISTOW OF SAA'DW1QIES
ci the earliest recorded references 10 pieM of bread tells of a great jewish teacher who lived He created l'assw!r clistom of eating haroseth nuts and "l~)les) :Uld mohror (bilter bet.Iten 1\>."0 pieces of matzo (unleavThis "sandwich" was intended • Ir ~- ... the mortar used by the je.I.'S to tIr EKlJltians' p)'ramlds and the bitter thei,;"tomm",t mllaY from the land (De
I I"". (/
The term s(I1Idu,ch came into use approximately 200 years ago. The Fourth Earl of Sand· wich, Sir John Montague (J 718-1792), is credo ited with popularizing the concept of eating mealS and cheeses between 1\>."0 slices of bread. Apparently the Earl, not wanting to leal'e the gaming tables that he loved so much, would demand that his servanlS bring him meat and bread. He combined the 1\\"0 and ate them 'With one hand, allowing him a free hand to con· tinue playing at the tables. Some historiaru; argue that a more likely scenario is thaI. as the
head of defense, the Earl was kept busy planning British strategy for the Revolutionary War un(\eN'3Y in the American colonies. Whichever 1~
case, the name stuck. Sandwiches became more popular in the
United States when soft white bread be<:ame
common in the early 20th century. Today, santh>.iches are found on breakfast, IWlCh and dinner menus and are served by e\'el')' type of food 5e!\ice operation, from the most casual diner to the fanciest fOOf-star dining room.
768 '"""
CHAl'fER 26
FtGURE 26.2 Cold OjJell-j(lced Sandwicbes. Tea sandwiches are small, fancy constructions made with ligh~
trimmed breads and delicate fillings and spreads. TIley are usually cut into shapes such as diamonds, circles or pinwheels and served as a fimge,L3 at parties and receptions. Cold open-faced sandwiches are simply larger versions of "'"PO, "":" are discussed in Chapter 28, Hors d'Oeuvre and Canapes. The mOSI style is the open-faced Nonvegian sandwich known as smorbrod. canapes, much emphasis is placed on visual appeal. A single slice ,,"".. coaled with a spread, then covered with thin slices of meal, poultrya' a thin layer of a bound salad. Carefully CU I and arranged g"m;'hes.xl hard-cooked eggs, fresh herbs, pickles, onions and radishes are used
plete the presemation. A simpler version of an open-faced cold ,,,,dwkh;5I delicatessen classic-a bagel with lox and cream cheese.
PREPARING SANDWICHES .n-, Sandwiches are generally prepared to order, and their prepamtion quires a great deal of handwork. Therefore, the goal is to assemble all' dients and equipment so that your motions will be as quick and efficierl possible at the time of final assembly. Because each menu and food operation has its own requirements, there is no one correct station setup, there are a few basic guidelines. 1. Prepare illgretiie1lfs. All sandwich ingredients should be cooked, miIcd,
sliced and prepared ahead of service to facilitate quick, efficient ".emH, • at service time. So, before service, slice the meats, cheeses and regetal*s. blend the flavored spreads, mix the bound salads, and so on. 2. Arrange anti store ingredients. Arrange all sandwich ingredients within e2!if reach of the work area. Cold items must be properly refrigerated 31 II times. A sandwich bar, similar to a steam table bUI with refrigerated a.partments, is frequently used for thiS purpose. Under-coumer refrigeratD can be used for backup supplies and less frequemly used ingrediem Sliced meats, cheeses and vegetables mUSt be well covered 10 preveni dehydration or contamination. Many ingredients can be preportioned, edrr by weight or count, then wrapped in individual portions for storage,
SANDWICHES ~
026.3
A TJpical Sandwich Bar.
J. Sf/ecl and arrallge equipmellt. The heavy equipment needed for making sandwiches can include preparation equipment such as meat slicers, griddles, grills, fryers and broilers as well as storage equipment such as refrigerated sandwich bars for cold ingredients and steam tables for hot ingrediems. Even the simplest &1ndwich menu will require the use of basic hand tools such as spatulas, spreaders, portion scoops, knives and cutting boards. Be sure that the supply of such items is adequate to permit quick handwork and to avoid delays at service time.
PRESEN!1NG AND GARNISHING SANDWfCHES .n-., Slndwiches, especially cold dosed sandwiches, are usually
CUI
into halves,
!Ins or quaners for service. See Figure 26.4 for examples. Cutting makes a lIDdv.'ich easier for the customer to handle and allows for a more aUractive ptst'Iltation: The sandwich wedges can be arranged to add height to the plate lid 10 expose the fillings ' colors and textures. Hot dosed sandwiches such as IIImburgcrs are often presented open-faced. Condiments, such as mustard and ~unnaisc, and garnishes, such
769
770
~
CHAPTER 26
,, , •
,,
•
,,
,,
• ,,
•
,,
,,
•
,,
,,
•
•
, (.)
,,
•
,,
,,
• , ,,
,
,,
,,
,, '
• , ' , '
,
, ,,
,,
,,"'I
(1) Place toothpicks through the sanlNich as sh0'411 tr,' tbt1bs. (b) CuI the sandv.ich assllO'loll ~' the douOO
~nes.
"" ,, • •
,,
,,
,,
(b)
(.)
TABLE
,
• •
FIGlJRE 26.4
(b)
(b)
(.)
•
•
•
Cultlng Sal/dwlches.
26.1
J'r> NlrrRITIONAL VAlUES FOR SELECTED FAST~ FooD SANDWICHES Kad
~ l cDonald's Big Mac McDonald·s Egg MCMII./]il1 McDonald's Filet·O-Fish Jack-in-the-Box Jllmbo Jack Hardee's Big RotlSI Beef Burger King Wbopper Wendy's Grilled Chicken
560 291) 440 5B4
300 6)4 J4i)
Protem
Carbohydrates
Total Fat
(;holesterol
(g)
(g)
(g)
(mg)
425
32.4 11.2 26.1 340 1.0 360 13.0
103 226
25.2 18.2 13.8 26.0 18.0 27.0 24.0
281 37.9 42.0 32.0 45.0 37.0
"""" (~I
m
'.
50 73 45 91)
IO~
60
81;
'll
lIS,
11w Corrille T Nelzer E/lC)'C/opetila oj Food Values 1992
High-quality sandwiches are made from fresh , carefully prepared ingre
S4NDWlCHE5 !he sandwich's name; they should be fl avorful and properly prepared. The nee of even the most basic sandwich can be improved by carefu l as· r and precise trimming and cutting_
UES7JONS FOR DISCUSSION IN examples for each of the three primal)' sandwich comjX>nenLS.
Explain the differences between a hot open·faced and a hot dosed S3ndwich. li
RECIPE 26.1
CHICKEN PESTO AND FETA CHEESE SANDWICH WILDFLOWER BREAD CO., Scorrsv.w:, AZ NOTE.: 'Tbis dish a{1Jt!rlrs ill the Chapter GyJeTlillg phoIograpb.
fldd: 8 Sandwiches
Mushrooms, sliced thin 8.tlsamic \'inaigreue Red bell peppers, roasted Tomatoes, medium Chicken breasLS, boneless, skinless 4 oz. (1 20 g), each 1ta1~1n roll PestO (Recipe 10.30)
F",
SOZ.
240 g
1 oz.
JOg
8 oz. 4
240 g 4
8 8 S oz. S oz.
8 8 240 g 240 g
1 Marinate the mushrooms in the balsamic vinaigreue for at least 24 hours under refrigeration, stirring occasionally. Slice the peppers into l/4-inch (6·millimeter) wide strips. J Slice the tomatoes inlO 1/4·inch (6·millimetcr) thick slices. I. Trim any fat or rib meat from the chicken breasLS and lhen grin until done. S To assemble each sandwich, slice one roll in half lengthwise. Spread 1 ounce (30 grams) of the pesta on Ihe bottom of the roll, lhen crumble 1 ounce (30 grams) of the feta on top of the pesto, covering the entire sur· £lee. Place a chicken breast on la p of Ihe feta , then 1/2 ounce (I S grams) Ii the mushrooms on Ihe chicken, 1 Ollnce (30 grams) of the roasted red pepper strips on tOp of the mushrooms and fi nish with 3 toma.to slices and the top of the roll. [nsen tWO toothpicks, slice and serve. fIp\l'!mtUC l",ltllC:! Jl'-'T sandwkh: Ca torle!! S40. Total fat 20 g . .saturated fat 7 g. Cbole!!terol 135 WIwtl 830 mg. Total o rbobydratcs }9 g, Protein 51 g, Vitamin A 2Cm, Vitamin C 60%. Cal-
_ m lron 25'l9
~
771
772
C'!a.
CHAPTER 26
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 26.2
GROUPER SANDWICH WI11I LEMON REMOUIAJ)E PHOENIX BRt.""WING CO. , ATlANTA, GA
Executive Cbef Kevin FQnZQ
Yield: 6 Sandwiches Olive oil Grouper filleLS, 5 oz, (150 g), each Sa lt and pepper Lemon Remoulade (recipe follows) Kaiser rolls, sliced, toasted Mixed greens Tommo slices
30 ml
2 Thsp.
6
6
IT 6 fup.
IT
6 3 c.
6
6
6
90ml nOml
1. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan. Season the grouper fillets withd and pepper and then Saute the fish until golden brown and cooked ttuoop 2. To assemble each sandwich, spread 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) ddr lemon remoulade on the bottom half of the roll, then top with 1/2 cup(1J milliliters) of mixed greens, a tomato slice and the cooked fish. Coverri the remaining half o f the roll and serve. Approximate vatues per serving, Calories 330, Total fat 8 g, Saturated fat I g, Cholescl'f'ol
LEMON REMOULADE SAUCE Yield: 20 oz, (600 ml) Mayonnaise Sweel pickle relish Onion, chopped fine Parsley, chopped Fresh lemon juice Salt and black pepper \'(forcestershire sauce Tabasco
1 pI.
1 It
3 oz. 2 Thsp. 2 Thsp. 2 Thsp.
90g 30 ml 30 ml 30 ml
IT IT IT
IT IT
IT
1. t.'lix all the ingrediems together until thoroughly blended. Approximate values per t-oz. (29·g) serving: Calories 170, Tow fat 18 g, Saturated fat Z5 g. a. teste-roJ 15 mg, Sodium 160 mg, Total carbo hydrates 2 g. Protein 0 g
SANDIWCHFS ~
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 26.3
IlAAfBURGER Yield: 1 Sandwich Ground round Sah and pepper HambUTger bun or other
4-6 oz.
12O-ISO g
IT
IT
as desired
as desired
appropriate bread garnishes
L Fonn the ground round into a patty, handling the beef as little as possible. 1. Season the patty with slllt and pepper and broil or grill to tbe desired doncness, turning once. While the pally is cooking, toast the bun or bread if desired, j Remove the patty from the broiler or grill, place on one half of the bun or
one slice of bread and garnish the other with a lettuce lcaf, a slice of onion, a slice of tomato and/or pickles. Serve with condiments such as
ketchup and mustard. lppIOu'nale v:aiues per sandwich: Calories 580, Toul fat 32 g, Saturated fat 9 g, Choleslerol 99 mg,
..... 3); mg. ToUl carbohydr.lles 40 g, Proldn 29 g
talLl.T1OSS: Cbeesebll~er-Place one or two slices of American, cheddar, 5IIiss or OIher cheese on the cooking patry approximately 1 minute before it
am.
.IfI\IOD'tIlle \';Ilues per sandwkh: Calorle!l 680, To tal fat 42 g, Satur.rted fOIl 15 g, Choleslerol 130 ... 5odIum 520 mg, Total carbohr drall:S 42 g, ProIdn 36 g, Calcium 2Q%
BllcOIl cbeesebtl~er-P repare a cheeseburger and place two slices of crisp baroo on top of the cheese when the patty is done, ~Ie \':iluc;; per sandwich: Calori es 650, Total fat 39 g, Saturaled fat 12 g, Cholesterol 110 ... SOdIum 560 mg, Total carbohydrates 41 g, Prote in 33 g
Mushroom bZl~er-Saute 2 ounces (60 grams) of sliced mushrooms in 1 to 2 ~ns
(5 10 10 milliliters) of butter or olive oiL Top the cooked hamburger u l'heeseburger with the cooked mushrooms . .IfIIIOIiDWt' \'llues per sandwich, Wi1hou1 cheese: Calories 660, Total fat ?J7 g, Saturaled fat 12 g, IJIDItrol nO mg, Sodium 400 mg, TOUI carboh r drata 48 g, Protein 33 g
Oihfom;a btlr,ger-Prepare :1 hamburger or cheeseburger and serve on a tide wheat bun accompanied by 2 ounces (60 grams) of guacamole, 1 ounce (JJ grams) of alfalfa sprouts, 2 slices of ripe tomato and I thin slice of red
"""'.
jppIlXint1te \'lilies per sand .... ich, wi1hout cheese: Calories 690, Total fat 40 g, Saturated fat 9 g, tiIItrol 100 mg, Sodium 770 mg, Total carbohydnta 50 g, Protein 3?J g, Vitamin C 20M.
773
774 "".
CIMlnR 26
-v.r-.====== RECIPE 26.4
GRILLED RED S NAPPER BURGER Wlffl MANGO KETCHUP from Allen Susser's New World Cuisine alld Cookery'
by ALLf.N SUSSER, NORTU
MIA.\ n
Bf.-\CI1, n
Yield: 4 Sandwiches
Red snapper fillets. fresh
I lb.
4'i0 g
Egg whites Kosher salt Cayenne pepper
3 I 1/2Isp. 1/4 lSp.
3 7ml
111ai fish sauce Scallions, chopped
111)sp.
15 ml 30ml Sml 60 ml 30 ml 1 loaf 225 ml 15 ml
Fresh dill, chopped Fresh bread crumbs Olive oil French bread, quanered Spinach, cleaned and dried Mango Ketchup (recipe follows)
2 Thsp. lisp. 1/4 c. 2 Thsp. 1 loaf
1 c.
1 Tbsp.
I ml
I . Chop the red snapper by hand or with a steel blade in a food processct Place the chopped snapper into a large Sillinless steel bowl.
2. Add the egg whites, 5.111, cayenne, fish sauce, scallions and dilL Mi:t wei.
3. Add enough bre'
MANGO KETCH UP Yield: 2 qL (2 It) Mangos, medium Vinegar Fresh ginger, chopped Cinnamon, ground Kosher salt Granuated sugar White wine Allspice, ground Cayenne pepper Clove, whole
5 3 Tbsp.
1 Thsp. dash I tsp. 1/2 c. 1/2 c. 1/2 1sp. 1/2 lSp. 1
5 45 ml IS ml dash
5ml 12{) g
120 ml 2ml 2ml 1
J. Peel and pit the mangos. Puree the pulp in a food processor fined with a
stainless-steel blade. 2. Add all the remaining ingredients and pulse together.
MDw/CIIES
! In a heavy-sided saucepan cook the mixture over low heat for I hour, until reduced and thickened. t Remo\'e from the heat and cool. 1 S\rain through a fine sieve, Let set refrigeruted for 24 hours. ~'elJ
-v- ======= RECIPE 26.5
BlACKENED STEAK SANDWICH rtrld: 2 Sandwiches ~'York
strip steak, 10 oz.
(280 g)
Blackened Stea k Seasoning (recipe follows) Cllrified butter
UP'" 'Chole butter, softened French bread, cut on the bias Baby lelluce, cleaned Roma tomatoes, sliced Ked onions, sliced
as needed l oz . I Tbsp. l oz. 2 slices 4 oz. 2 1 oz.
as needed 30 1111 15 m! 30 g 2 slices 120g 2
JOg
1 Heat a cast iron skillet over high heat for 10 minutes. Pat the steak dl)' with 3 clean towel. Coot the steak in the blackened steak seasoning. 1 Carefully place the steak into the hot pan and ladle 1/2 ounce (1 5 milliliters) of clarified buller over the steak . Be vel)' careful, the butter may flare up. There will be intense smoke and the steak will form a black crust. Cook the steak for approximatelr 2 minutes . .1 Tum the steak, ladle the remaining clarified buller over i1 and allow it 10 rook to the desired degree of doneness Remove the steak from the pan and hold in a warm place. t Chop the capers :tnd combine Ihem with the softened butter. Spread each slice of bread with half of the caper butler. J Slice the steak on the bias. , To assemble each sa ndwich , place one half of the warm steak on a slice of buuered bread and arrunge half of the greens, tomatoes and onions attractr.'Cly on the plate and serve. 'fIamos: To serve this sandwich cold, allow the steak 10 cool after cooking, refrigernte il until completely cold. Proceed with the recipe. ,~Iues
per sand .... ich: QaJories 610. Toul fa! 38.2. Sarur:uc:d fa! 20 g, Choles!erol IIll
..,5odUm 650 mg, Tout carl>o hr dn1es 21 g. Protein 44 g. Vitamin A 3O'll Vitamin C 4<»6 8LACKENED STEAK SEASONING rdd: I 112 oz. (45 g) hprikl SlIt Onion powder Garlic powder
uyenne pepper While pepper
llbsp. 2 (Sp . I (Sp . I {Sp. I {Sp. 112 (Sp .
15 ml 10 ml 5 ml 5 ml 5 ml 3 ml Conlilllwd
• 775
776
<"'\!\.
CIW/'FJ( 26
Black pepper Dried thyme
1/2 tsp.
112 {Sp.
3 ml 3ml
1. Combine all ingredients and mix well.
============= ~ =========== RECIPE 26.6
GRIUED
BBQ
POKIABEUA MUSHROOM SANDWICH ON FOCACCIA PIIOENIX BREWING CO. , Aru.vrA, GA Executive Coo/Kevin Fonzo
Yield: 6 Sandwiches Focaccia, cut into 6 in . (15 cm) squares Porta bella mushrooms Barbecue Sauce (Recipe 10.25) Red bell peppers, roasted, peeled and julienne Goat cheese, cmmbled Basil leaves
6 6 1/4 c.
6 6 60ml
2
2
6 Thsp.
90 Oll 30
30
1. Slice the focaccia squares horizontally and toast.
2. Brush the portabeJla mushrooms with the BBQ sauce and grill until III and tender. J. To assemble each sandwich, place one mushroom on the bottom of a"caccia square and top with 1/6 of the roasted pepper strips, 5 basil leall! and I tablespoon (15 milliliters) of goat cheese. Top with the remaining» caccia, cut in half and serve. Approximatc vatJCS per $lndwich: Calorles 330. Total fat 12 g, Saturated fat 3.5 g. Chottw:ro1 mg. Sodium 66c mg. Total carbohydrate!! 45 g, Prote in 11 g. Vitamin C 110%, Iron 1m. aaa. good source of fiber
============ ~ ========== REC[PE 26.7
REUBEN SANDWICH Yield: I Sandwich Dark rye bread Thousand Island dressing Cooked corned beef, hot, sliced very thin Sauerkraut, hot, drained well Swiss cheese Whole butter, soft ened
2 slices I oz.
4 oz. 2 oz. 2 slices as needed
2 slices
30ml 120 g
60g 2 slices as needed
1. Spread each slice of bread with ~lpproxi matcl y I tablespoon (15 millil~m of Thousand Island dressing.
SANDWICH~
2 Place Ihe hot corned beef, hOI sauerkraut and Swiss cheese on one slice of bread. Top wilh Ihe second slice of bread, keeping Ihe dressing side inside lhe sandwich. j. Buner the top slice of bread and place the sandwich on a hOI griddle, but+ Iff side down. Carefully butter the second slice of bread. t Griddle the sandwich, turning once when the first side is well browned. The sandwich is done when both sides are well browned, the fillings are very hot and the cheese is melted. J Cut the sandwich in half diagonally and arrange as desired for service. ~e \';Ilucs per sandwich: Calories 560. Total (;at Xl /I.. Saturated fat 10 g. Cho lesterol 85 ... SodIum 2150 mg, Tou.! carbohrdrates 39 g, J>ro(dn 40 g. Vlumin A I ~ Vitamin C 3O'Mo
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 26.8
SOIffHWESTERN GRIUED CHEESE SANDWICH WI11I CHIPOTLE PUREE AND AVOG4DO )"!tld: 1 Sandwich Whole grain bread Monlerey Jack cheese with peppers fhipode Puree (recipe follows) creme fraiche A\'Ocado, sliced thin Red onion, sliced thin C~antro leaves Whole bUller, soft
2 slices
2 slices
2 slices
2 slices
1tSp. Ilbsp. 2 oz. 112 oz. 1 TI)Sp. 1 oz.
S ml IS ml 60g 15 g 15 ml 30 g
L Top each slice of bread with a slice of cheese. Spread each slice with half of the chipc>(le puree and half of the Cfeme fraiche. 1 Arrange Ihe avocado slices, sliced red onion and cilantro leaves on one slice of the bread. Close the sandwich and press together lightly. j. Buner Ihe lap slice of bread and place the sandwich, butter side down, on a hot griddle. Carefully butter the second slice of bread. 4. Griddle the sandwich, turning once when the fi rst. side is well browned. The sandwich is done when both sides are well browned and the cheese is melted. J Cut the sandwich in half diagonally and arrange as desired for service. l,ppOXunalC vallll'S per sandwich: Calo ries 730, Tota] f;at SS g, Saturated fat 28 g, Cho lesterol ]40 '" Sodium 8XI mg, Total carbohydntes 3S g, Protein 24 g, Vitamin A 45%, Calcium 6OW.
CHIPOTLE PURliE rlrld: 8 1/2 oz. (250 g) Chipotle peppers in adobo sauce Vegetable oil lime
7 oz. I I
oz.
200 g 30 g I
J. Place the chipotle peppers and the oil in the bowl of a food processor; squeeze the lime and add the juice. 1 Process the mi.xture umil smooth.
C""a.
777
778
, C/W'7'HR 26
RECIPE 26.9
MONTE CRISTO SANDWICH Yield: I Sandwich White bread Whole butter, softened Cooked turkey breast, sliced thin Ham, sliced thin Swiss cheese
Egg Milk
2 slices as needed
2 slices as needed
I oz. I oz. 2 slices I [ oz.
JOg JOg 2 slices I 30 ml
J. Spread one side of each slice of bread with butter. 2. Arrange the turkey breast, ham and cheese on top of the butter Oil roe slice of bread. 3. place the other slice of bread on top of the cheese, butter side agai!lS1 the cheese. 4. Beat the egg and milk together. Dip the sandwich in the egg baner aM allow the batter to soak into the bread. 5. Deep-fry the sandwich in 37soF (l 90°C) oil until it is evenly browned. Remove from the oil and drain well. Cut the sandwich into 4 pieces m:l arrange as desired. Approximate ''3Iue:s per sandwich: Calo rie!! 630. Total fal 42 g, SalUraled fat 24 g, mg, Sodium 1050 mg, Total carbo hydrates Xl g, PnMein 35 g, Vitamin A 4(N;
, ---..
Cbo~)ofI
-.p
RECIPE 26, 10
FAlAFEL
Yield: 12 Sandwiches Chickpeas, dry Garlic, minced Parsley, chopped Chives, minced Cumin, ground Coriander, ground C:lyenne pepper
I lb. 6 cloves 1/2 oz. 1/2 oz. I lbsp. 2 15p. TT
Eggs
3
3
Sal! Flour Plain yogurt Lemon juice Pita bread Iceberg lettuce, shredded Tomatoes, diced
TT S oz. 6 oz. 2 oz. 12 6 oz. 6 oz.
IT
450 g 6 doves 15g 15 g 15ml 10 Illl IT
lJOg 180g 60 ml 12 180 g 180 g
I . To make the f:llafel , soak the chickpeas following the procedures for dried
beans outlined in Chapter 22, Veget:lbles. Drain the chickpeas, place them
SNl/DWlCHFS in a po!. and cover with cool water. Simmer until tender, approximately 2 to 3 hours, remove from the heal and drain well.
1 Process the chickpeas in a food processor or a food chopper until coarsely rhopped. Add the garlic, parsley, chives, cumin, coriander and Clyenne pepper and process for a few seconds. 1 Mel me eggs, salt and fl our and process briefly. Remove the falafel from !he machine and chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour. t Combine the yO&'llrt and lemon juice and mix well. Set aside. S Pooion the falafel using a #;0 scoop (there should be approximately 60 oolls) and deep-fry the lYdlls at 37;oF 090OC) until crisp and hot. Drain well lnd hold in a warm place. , To assemble each sandwich, cut a pita in half or open it to form a pocket md Sluff with several balls of fal afel and I ounce (30 grams) of the shredded leuuce and diced tomatoes and then dress with the yogurt sauce. Arrange the sandwiches as desired and serve hOi . .
. . . .' " \";llue:s per sandwich: Calories 290. ToW fat 3 8. saturated fat .5 g. Cholesterol 55 mg, ..... -1"'0 mg. TO(al carboh}"d ral~ 55 g. Protein 12 g. Clairns-Jow fJt: low saturated fat: ~
-""'"
or RECIPE 26. 11
KENTuCKY HOT BROWN
SANDWICH rl(ki: 6Sandwiches
He"Jvy cream, hot Romano, grated Ve\Ot.l!e sauce, hot ilT} sherry 'l'hile toasl, crust removed Turkey breast, sliced Parmesan, grated Tomato wedges Baron, lean, cooked crisp
6 oz. 6 oz.
180 ml
1 qL 1 oz. 12 slices lIb. 8 oz. 2 oz.
I It
180 g
30ml 12 slices n Og 60g
12
12
12 slices
12 slices
t To make the sauce, add the cream and the Romano to the veloule sallce and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 1 minute, then strain the sauce through a china cap. Stir in the sherry Hold in :l warm r1ace for ser\~.
1 Cut the toast diagonally into triangles. J To assemble each 5.1ndwich, arrange 4 toast triangles in a gratin dish md top with 4 ounces (120 grams) of turkey and 4 ounces (1 20 milliliters) of s:tuce. Bake at 3;0°F (225°C) umil brown, approximately I; minutes. t Top each sandwich with Pamlesan, 2 tomato wedges and 2 strips of bacon and serve very hol. Jpllin1le \";ltues p<1" Solndwirh: Calories 720. Total rae 34 g,
Satur.ucd fat
17 g.
Chotesterol
..,todIam 11~ mg. Total carbohydr.lI~ 45 g, Prolrin 59 g. Vitamin A 2(M. Qllclum 50%
185
,~
779
780 '""" CIWl'I!R 26
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 26.12
R OAST B EEF AND B LUE CHEESE SANDWICH WILDFLOWER BREAD CO, SoomioALE, AI. Yield: 4 Sandwiches
Red bell peppers, roasted
8 oz.
Herb Mayonnaise ( recipe follows) White sourdough bread
8 Thsp. 8 slices
Blue cheese, crumbled Roast beef, rare, cold, sliced thin Red onion, sliced thin Tomato slices Romaine lettuce
6 oz. I lb. 2 oz. 12 4 leaves
240 g 120 mI
8 slices 18
60g 12
4 Jeal'es
1. Slice the peppers into strips 1/4 inch (6 millimeters) wide. 2. To assemble one sandwich, spread 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) of berIl mayonnaise on a slice of bread and tOp with I 1/2 ounces (45 grams! d blue cheese. Then place 4 ounces (120 grams) of the roast beef on qld the cheese and cover with 1/2 ounce (t 5 grams) of red onions. 2 0LIIXtS (60 grams) of red bell peppers strips, 3 tomato slices, 1 leaf of romaine~ tuce and a slice of bread. Approximate VlIlues per sandWich: Calories 679. Total fal 42 8. Sacurated fat 17 g, C~· mg, Sodium 1061 mg, Total carboh)'dralt'$ 41 g, Prole-In 34 g, Vlwnln A 73%. \1WDia C 1"0'1
Calcium 30%. lron 25%
HERB ~IAYONNAlSE
Yield: 1 c. (240 ml) Mayonnaise Fresh basil, chopped Fresh cilantro, chopped Fresh parsley, chopped
I c. I Thsp.
lisp. lisp.
240 mI 15 mJ 5 m!
5ml
1. Stir all Ihe ingredienLS together until the herbs are evenly diSlri!.xJrt'd throughout the mayonnaise. Chill until ready to use.
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 26.13
NEW ORLEANS-S1YLE MUFFALE1TA SANDWICH Yield: 1 Sandwich, 4-6 Servings Red bell pepper, roasted, chopped N i~oise or Gaela olives, pitted, chopped Olives, green, pitted, chopped Virgin olive oil Italian parsley, chopped Anchovy filleLS, mashed
4 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz. 2 Thsp.
30ml
2
2
120 g 120 g 120 g
SANDWICHES
Dried oregano lemon juice Round Italian bread, 8 in. (I8 em) diameter Arugula or curly endive, chiffonade Tomato, concassee Monadella, sliced thin Soppressata, sliced thin Pn)'."olone or FOOlina, sliced thin
Ilbsp.
5 ml 15 ml
I 1/2 oz. 6 oz. 6 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz.
45 g 180 g 180 g 120 g 120 g
Peppe'
IT
IT
1 tsp.
J. To make the olive salad, combine the red pepper, olives, olive oil, parsley, anchovies, oregano and lemon juice and marinate for several hours. l. Cut the loaf of bread in half horizontally. Remove some of the soft interior of the bread to create a slight hollow area. 1. Drain the olive salad, reserving the oil. Brush the interior of the bread with the reserved oil, using it all. i Arrange the olive salad, greens, tOmalO, mortadella, soppressata and cheese in layers on the bonom portion of the loaf of bread, finishing with a thick layer of olive salad. Season the layers with pepper as desired. 1 Place the top on the sandwich and wrap tightly with plastic wrap. Refrig· e"lIe the sandwich for several hours so that the layers will remain in place when the sandwich is CUI. , Cut the sandwich into 4 10 6 wedges and arrange as desired for service. ~ ,,,tues per sandwich: Calo ries 670, Toul rat 57 g, Saturated fat t
========== ~ ============ RECIPE 26.14
SOU17fWESTERN GRIUED CHICKEN WRAP Yield: 12 Sandwiches Chicken breast, boneless, skinless Salt and pepper .~\·ocados
Red bell pepper.; Red onion Tomatoes Tortillas, 10 in. (24 em) Black Bean Spread (recipe follows) Black olives, sliced Cilantro, chopped Oleddar cheese, grated Jalapenos, minced
3 lb.
1350 g
IT
IT
3 2
3 2 1 2 12 1350 g 250 ml 2 bunches 750 g 2
I 2 12 3 lb.
Ie. 2 bunches 1 lb. 8 oz. 2
I. Season the chicken breast with salt and pepper and grill or broil until done. Chill and cut into strips. l Peel the avocados and cut each into 12 slices. Clean the bell peppers and cut into strips. Slice the onions thinly. Dice the tomatoes. COm i ll11ed
("\!l.
781
782
•
CJWfER
26 To make each sandwich, place one tonilla on a cutting board and sprea:l wilh approximately
j.
5. Top with 1/ 12 of the chicken.
6. Roll the tortilla around the ingredients lightly enough so that the sandwc will hold its shape. Cut the sandwich as desired for service. Approximate values per 5.lndwich: Calories 642. Tot.:ll fat 37 g, Saturated fat 16 g, Cholesltl'Ol ll& mg. Sodi um 695 mg, Total carbohydrat" 37 g, Protein 41 g. Vitamin A 3~ Vitamin C"fIt!o (j dum
50%. Iron 2:m B L~C K
BEAN SPREAD
Yield: 3 lb. (I.3 kg)
Black beans, soaked and drained
lib. 8 oz.
Water
4 qt. 4 oz. 6 oz.
Onion, diced
Tomatoes, diced Cilantro, chopped Salt and pepper
2 Thsp.
Cumin
IT 1
Chilli powder
IISp.
tsr.
680 g 411. 120 g 180g 30 Illi IT
Srot Sml
1, Combine the beans and the water, bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer:IIKI
cook until tender, approximately I {o 1 112 hours. 2. Add the remaining ingredienlS and simmer for 10 minutes, 3. Drain the beans, resen'ing the cooking liquid. Chill the beans and the liquid. 4. Puree the beans in a food processor, adding enough of the cooking liquid to make a soft, spreadable puree. Approximate \'llIUl.'S pt.... 2-o~. (6/).g) setVin&, Calories 100, Total fat _5 g. Sa turated fat 0 g. (bob tc:rol 0 mg, Sodium 51 mg, Total carbohydrata 37 g, Protc:in 12 g, Clain_ low flt: no cbtb tcrol: low sodium
RECIPE 26. 15
VEGGIE
WRtIP
Yield: 1 Sandwich Spinach-flavored tonilla Garlic Yogun Dressing (recipe follows) Jasmine ricc, cooked ROffia tomato, diced Cucumber, julienne Alfalfa sproulS Broccoli florelS Red onion, sliced thin Capers
1
2 ·lbsp. 3 oz. 2 Thsp. 10z. as needed 10z. loz. 1 Thsp.
30 ml
90g 30 ml 30g as needed 30g 30g 15 Illl
1. Spread the tonill:1 with 1 tablespoon (1S milliliters) of the Garlic Yogurt Dressing. 2. Arrange the rice in a mound across the ceOler of the tortilla, Top the rict with the vegetables and capers.
SWDW1CHES
Drizzle the remaining Garlic Yogurt Dressing over the vegetables. t Using a piece of parchment paper as a wrapper, roll the tortilla tightly ~round
the filling, then chill and serve.
1'31ucs per ~odwich , Calories 464, Total fat 3 g.
SatUJ"3~
"'" ,,.
..... l96 mg, Totat carbohrdnte5 95 g. Protei n 12 g, ' 'l tamln A
fat .5 g. Cholestero t 0 g.
t~ Viwnin C 4~ Calcium
GARLIC YOGURT DRESSING \ield: I pt. (500 mD
Nonfat yogurt. plain Parsley, minced G3rlic. minced Dijon mustard Black pepper Tabasco sauce
1 pI I Thsp. 2 Thsp. 211).'jp.
1/ 4 tsp. 1T
450 ml 15 ml 30ml 30 ml 1 ml 1T
I. Combine alllhe ingredients and chill until ready to use. /fJlolimate ,..lues per l-(lz. (JO.g) serving: Calories 19. Total fat 0 g, Satunted fat 0 g. Choles· ... ! 1113. SodIum 4(j mg, Total carbohr drates 3 g. PTotein 2 g
RECIPE 26. 16
CWB SANDWICH Ylt'ld: 1 Sandwich
Sliced bread, toasted
3 slices
3 slices
Mayonn~ise
as needed 2 3 slices 3 slices
as needed 2 3 slices 3 slices
1T
1T
3 oz.
90g
!.enuce leaves
Tomato Bacon, cooked criSp Salt and pepper Cooked turkey breast, sliced thin
L Spread one side of each slice of toasted bread with mayonnaise. l. Arrange the lenuce, tomato and bacon on one slice of toast. Season with salt and pepper. J Place another slice of to.'Ist on top of the b.'lCon. t Arrange Ihe lurkey breast on top of the second slice of toast. S Place the third slice of toast on top of the turkey breast, mayonnaise side down. , Place 4 frilled toothpicks in the s.1ndwich, onc on each side, approximately 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) in from the edge. Cut the sandwich diagonally into quaners and armnge as desired for service. ~l!II:lte \'3lues per sandwich: Calories 530. Tota l fat 24 8, Saturated fat 6 g, Choteste rol 95 mg. IIIIIiIaD B!JQ mg, Total carbohr drates 38 g, Protein 39 g, Vitamin A 4%. Vitamin C lcm
. 783
784
~
C!Wl1!R 26
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 26. 17
GRILLED SAIMON CWB
WITH CIlANTRO AfoLl PI-IOF.NIX BREWING CO. , AnA.'TA, GA F.:r:ealli(;e COO/Kevi" FOllzo
Yield: 4 Sandwiches
Salmon fillets, 5 oz. (ISO W, each Salt and pepper Olive oil Wheat bread, toasted Watercress Red onions, cut in rings,
1/8 in. (3 mm) thick Tomato, thick slices Cilantro Aioli (recipe follows)
4
4
IT
IT
1 lbsp. 12 slices
15 ml 12 slices
2 c.
Sooml
8 rings 8 4 Thsp.
8 rings 8 6Q ml
1. Season the salmon with salt and pepper and rub with the o!i\"e oil, then grill the salmon until medium rare.
2. To assemble each sandwich, top one slice of toasted bread ';>lith 112 cup (120 mO of watercress, then 2 red onion rings and 2 slices of tomato. T~ with a second slice of bread. J, Place 1 salmon fillet on the bread. 4. Spread the third slice of bread with 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) of dr Cilantro Aioli and place on top of the salmon. Cut the sandwich an:! serve. Approximate values per sandwich: Calories 471, Total fat 24 g, Saturated fat 3 g, Cho\eslmllS" mg, SOdium 410 mg, Total carbohydl1Ue5 30 g, Protein 34 g, Vitamin A 27%, \'Itamin C,. Iron 16%
CILANTRO AioLl Yield: 1 q1. (2 Itl Egg yolks
Salt White pepper Dijon mustard White vineg:u Cilantro, chopped Lime juice Salad oil
4 1 !Sp. IT 1 tsp. 3 11)sp.
4 5 ml IT
S ml
IT
45 mI 45 ml IT
28 oz.
840m!
3 Thsp.
1. Combine all the ingredients except the oil in a blender. Process until dn· oughly combined. 2. With the blender running, slowly pour the oil into the egg yolk mixlure 10 form an emulsion. Approximate values per 2..()z. (6(}.ml) serving: Cajorlcs 455, Total fat 51 g, Saturated fal 6 50 a. lesterol 53 mg, SOdium 140 mg. Total carbohrdrates .s g, Protein .8 g
SANDWICHES
=========== ~ ============
RECIPE 26.18
EGGPlANT AND SUN-DRIED TOIlIATO PIZZA GREENS RESTAURANT, S.....I" FRA.'OCISCO, CA
/l."ectltit'e CbefAnnie Somervilk Yield: 1 IS-in. (37-em)
or 2 9-in. (22-em) Pizzas
Japanese eggplants E.wa virgin olive oil
Garlic, chopped Sail and pepper
2
2 2 oz. 2 (Sp.
60g
IT
IT
I lb.
450 g 5
lOml
Pi2.Za Dough (Recipe 31.14) Sun-dried tomatoes, packed in oil Prorolone, grated
4 oz.
120 g
Mozzarella, grated Parmesan, grated Fresh basil, chiffonade
2 oz. 112 oz. 12 leaves
60g
5
15 g 12 leaves
L Slice me eggplant diagonally inlO I/2-inch (I.2-cemimeter) slices. 1 Toss the eggplant with 1 ounce (30 grams) of olive oil and the garlic; season with salt and pepper. 1 Place the eggplam slices on a baking sheet and roast at 375°F (IWOC) until scit in the center, approximately 15-20 minutes. Cool and slice into strips. , Preheat Ihe oven to 500°F (26o"C). Roll out the dough and place it on a bgbtJy oiled pizza pan or well-floured wooden peel; brush it lightly with the remaining olive oil. Lay the eggplant and sun-dried tomatoes on top. Toss the Provolone and Mozzarella together and sprinkle on the pizza. 1 Bake the pizza until the crust is golden and crisp, approximately 8-12 minutes. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the Parmesan and basil.
..,'"'
IfIIIm1mlle I"3lues per 4<Jz. (126-g) 5Crving' Calories 420. Tow fal 17 g. SalUrated fat 5 g. Cb().
'-'vI 15 mg. Sodium SOO mg. Total carbohydrau:s 54 g. Protein 14 g. Vitamin A 100%, Vila·
~
785
HAPTER
CUTERIE
27
eMf Lel1nd Alitlnson, lJ'a.fbln lon, D.C.
=== ~ ===
After studying this chapter, you will be able to: ~
prepare a variety of forcemeaLS
r"a.
assemble and cook a variety of pateS, terrines and sausages understand the proper methods for brining, curing and smoking meaLS and fish identify several cured pork proollds
r"a.
r"a.
raditiOlialfy, charcuterie was limited /0 the prodllcliOlI
if
pork-based pales, tenines and ga/antilles. Over the years, hou'et'er, t bas come to inelude similar products made with game, poll/lry,fisb. shellfish and even vegetables. Mafzy of these are discussed bere.
Charcwen'e is an art and science in itself Tbis chapter is 1101 illtended to be a complete gUide to the charcutier's art. Im/ead, ur
focus on procedures for making common charcuten'e items that Cim be prepared easily in most kitchens. We also disCliss the preparation of sausages as well as curing methods, including salt CU ril1,& brini~ and both cold and hot smoking. The chapter ends with injonnatifM about several cured pork products.
FORCEMFAJS AND THEIR USES oN"> A forcemeat is a preparation made from uncooked ground meats, poultry, fish or shellfish, seasoned, then emulsified with fat. Forcemeats are the primary ingredient used to make pates, terrines, galantines and sausages. The word forcemeat is derived from the French word farce, meaning sruf(.. ing, Depending on the preparation method, a forcemeat can be very s11llXXb and velvety, well-textured and coarse, or anything in be[Wccn. Regardless d its intended lISf' , it has a glossy appearance when raw and will slice deanlr when cooked. A properly emulsified forcemeat provides a rich flavor and a comforting texture on the palate, Forcemeats are emulsified products. Emulsification is the process of bindina two ingredients that ordinarily would not combine, (Emulsified sauces are discussed in Chapter 10, Stocks and Sauces; emulsified salad dressings are discussed in Chapter 24, Salads and Salad Dressings.) The prolCins present intlr meat, poultry, fish and shellfish combine easily with boIh fat and liquids. III forcemeats, these proteins aCI as a stabilizer that allows the fat and liquids, which ordinarily would not combine, to bind, When improperly emu~ified forcemeats are cooked, they lose their fat, shrink and become dry and gramr. To ensure proper emulsification of a forcemeat: J. The ratio of fat to other ingredients must be precise. 2. Temperatures must be maintained below 4QoF (4°C). j. The ingredients must be mixed properly.
Forcemeat Ingredients Forcemeats are usually meat, poultry, fish or shellfish combined with bindets. seasonings and sometimes garnishes. Selections from each of these basic caItgories are used to make an array of forcemeats. All ingredients must be eX tIr finest quality and added in just the right proportions. Meats The dominant meat is the meat that gives {he forcemeat its name and essential flavor. The dominant meat does nO{ have to be beef, veal, Jamb, pM: a
ClIARCf.ll'ERiE
It can be poullIy, fish or shellfish. When preparing meats, poultry or fish forcemeat, it is important to trim all silverskin, gristle and small bones so the meal will be more easily ground and will produce a smoother finished forcemeats contain some pork. Pork adds moiSlUre and smQO{hness the forcemeat. Without it, poultry-based forcemeats tend to be rubbery, ••Ole ','en'SQn and other game-based forcemeats tend to be dry. The traditional is one part pork to two parts dominant meat. Man)' forcemeats also contain some liver. Pork liver is commonly used, as lichkkenliver. Liver contributes flavor as well as binding to the forcemeat. finer texture, grind the livers and then force them through a drum sieve incorporating them into the forcemeat. Man)'
fat refers to a separate ingredient, not the fat in the dominant meat or both of which should be quite lean in order to ensure the correct ratio to meat. Usually pork fatback or heavy cream is used to add moisture richness to the forcemeat. Because fat carries flavor, it also promOtes the infusion of flavors and smoke.
are two principal types of binders: panadas and eggs. Apanada is something other than fat that is added to a forcemeat to en(especially in fish mousselines, which tend to be slightly . texture), to aid emulsification (especially in vegetable terrines, where levels are insufficient to bind on their own) or both (for example, mousses). It should nOl make up more than 20% of the forcemeat's weight. Usually a panada is nothing more than crustless white bread in milk or, more traditionally, a heavy bechamel or rice. Eggs or egg whites are used as a primary binding agent in some styles of I:~:';el~f~"~sed in forcemeats that have a large ratio of liver or liquids, they
foa,mo," are seasoned with salt, curing salt, marinades and various herbs spices. ~lt not only adds flavor to a forcemea t but also aids in the emulsification and fat. As with other foods , a forcemeat that lacks salt will taste CUring salt is a mixture of sail and sodium nitrite. Sodium nitrite controls
~~ ~in~'~~~~':~ bacterial growth. Equally important, curing salt presen'es el i colors of some forcemeats that might otherwise oxidi7.e to an ungray. Although currently regarded as substantially safer than the ",;",""se<1potassium nitrate (saltpeter), some studies suggest that sodium is a carcinogen. For a typical consumer, however, the amount of sodium consumed from cured meats should nO{ pose a substantial health threat. Tooitionally, ingredients for forcemeats were marinated for long periods, . days, before grinding. The trend today is for a shorter marinating that the true fla vors of the main ingredients shine through. Both clascontemporary marinades include herbs, citrus zest, spices and liquors, which lend flavor, character and nuance to the forcemeat. JIW spice is a mixture of several spices and herbs that can be premixed used as needed.
~
789
790 ,.,..,
CIIAPlfR 27
"""
•
RECIPE 27.1
PArE
SPICE
Yield: 7 2/3 oz. (220 g)
Cloves Dried ginger Nutmeg
Paprika Dried basil Black pepper White pepper Bay leaf Dried thyme Dried marjoram
1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz.
109 109 30 g
109
2/3 oz.
20 g
2/3 oz. 213 oz. 1/ 3 oz. 1 oz. 1/ 3 oz.
20 g 20 g
109 30 g
109
1. Grind all the ingredients in a spice grinder. Pass through a sieve any large pieces. VARIATION: This mixrure can be used as is, or mix 1 ounce (30 grams) amount desired) with 1 pound (450 grams) of salt. The sal! and spice can then be used 10 season forcemeats; 1/3 ounce (10 grams) per forcemeat usually suffices for most pates.
"PPftIJI:im:ue \';llues per I-m. (7og) serving: CaIoric5 20, Total fat I g, Saturated fal 0 g. o mg, Sodium 0 mg, TOiai carbohydratcs 3 g, Protdn t g, Vitamin A (M,
A forcemeat's seasoning and texture can be tested by cooking a smaU tion before the entire forcemeat is cooked. (Unlike sauces, stews and dishes, you cannot taste and adjust a forcemeat 's flavoring during the process.) A small ponion of a hearty forcemeat am be sauteed; a smaD tion of a more delicate forcemeat should be poached for 3-; minutes. cooked, the forcemeat should hold its shape and be slightly firm but !IC( bery. If it is 100 firm, add a little cream.
Gomishes Forcemeat garnishes are mealS, fat, vegelables or other foods added in . quantities to provide contrasting flavors and textures and to improve ap ance. The garnishes are usually diced, chopped or more coarsely ground Iha the dominant meat. Common garnishes include pistachio nutS, diced fatl:oct tmffles or truffle peelings and diced ham or tongue.
Equipment jor Preparing Forcemeats To properly prepare forcemeats, you should have a food chopper or food processor and a heavy-duty dnlm sieve with a metal band. Vou will also need a standard meat grinder or meat-grinding anachment with various-sized An x-BImIe alld AssorledDia for a S'(llI(/(Ird Grinder grinding dies.
ClIARClflERlE
I\'epa./'in!!, Forcemeats Ihree common forcemeat preparations are country-style, basic and . .5!dine. E.1ch can Ix produced easily in a typical food service operation. of forcemeal preparations such as the emulsified mixture used to dogs and bratwurst are not commonly encountered in food service and are nOt discussed here. fheo preparing any forceme:lt, certain guidelines must be followed:
"",,'ons
Forcemeat preparations include raw meats. liver, eggs and dairy products. If improperly handled, these potentially hazardous foods create a good environment for the growth of microorganisms. To avoid the risk of food-borne illness, temperatures must be carefully controlled, and all cutting boards and fcOO OOnla(1 surfaces must be as sanitary as possible at all limes. To ensure a proper emulsifiC:llion, the forcemeal must be kept cold-below 4O"F (4Oc)'---at all times. Refrigerate all moist ingrediems, and keep forcemeats in progress in :111 ice bath. Chilling or freezing metal grinder and fcOO processor parts helps keep the ingredients as cold as possible. Cut all foods into convenient sizes that fit easily into grinder openings. Do no! overstuff grinders or overfill food processors. When grinding items lI\ice, always begin with a t:.rger die, followed by a medium or small die. For exceptional smoothness, press the forcemeat through a sieve after gfinding to remove any lumps or pieces of membmne.
l!2ditiOflal COuntry-style forcemeat is heavily seasoned with onions, garliC, , juniper berries and bay leaves. It is the simplest of the forcemeaLS to and yields the heartiest and most distincti\'e pates and sausages. The dominant meal for a country-style forcemeat is usually ground once the grinder's large die, then ground again through the medium die. produces the characteristic coarse, COuntry-style texture. As with most the dominant meat for a country-style forcemeat is usually mariand seasoned prior 10 grinding and tbe n mixed with some liver.
,1m"'"'".
mOORE FOR PREPARING A COUNTRy-SmE FORCEMEAT OIiU all ingredienLS and equipment thoroughly. Throughout preparation, they should remain at temperatures below 4QoF (4°C). Cut aU mealS into an appropriate size for grinding. Marinate, under refrigeration, the dominant meat and pork with the desired b:rbs. spices and liquors. If using liver, grind it and force it through a sieve. Cut the fatback into an appropriate size and freeze. Prepare an ice bath for the force meal. Then grind the dominant meat, pork and fal as directed in the reCipe, usually once through the grinder's largest die and a second lime through the medium die. If using liver, eggs, p:lOada or garnishes, fold them in by hand, remembering to keep the forcemeat over an ice bath at all limes. Cook a small panion of the forcemeat; adjust the seasonings and texture as appropriate. Refrigerate the forccmelLt until needed.
c""2\.
791
792
4!\..
CHAPTER 27
============ ~ ===========
RECIPE 27.2
COUNTRy-STYLE FORCEMEAl' Yield: 5 lb. (2.2 kg) Lean pork, diced Pate spice Salt Pepper Brandy Pork liver, cleaned and diced Fatback, diced Onion, small dice Garlic, minced Fresh parsley, chopped
Eggs
2 lb. 21bsp. I Thsp. IT 2 oz.
900g 30 ml 15 ml
rr
31bsp.
60 ml 45() g 45() g 90g 15 ml 45 ml
6
6
lib. lib. 3 oz. ! lbsp.
I . Combine the diced pork with the pate spice, salt, pepper and brandy; inate under refrigeration for several hours. 2. Grind the liver and force it through a drum sieve. Reserve. 3. Grind the marinated pork and fatback through the grinder's large die. 4. Grind half of the pork and fatback a second time through the medium( along with the onions, garlic and parsley. 5. Working over an ice bath, combine the coarse and medium ground rxn with the liver and eggs. 6: Cook and taste a small ponion of the forcemeat and adjust the sea5OOirI!:' as necessary.
TIle forcemeat is now ready to use as desired in the preparation ci ~ terrines, galantines and 5.1usagcs. Approximate "alue:s per l-<)l. (29·g) serving: Caiorie5 90. Total fal 8 g, SalUDlcd fal 3 g. Cbab leroi 50 mg, Sodium 105 mg, TOlal carbohydr.ale5 I g. Prolcin 5 g, VIUmln A 30%
I. Marinating the meat and fatback with herbs and spices.
2. Forcing the ground liver through a sieve.
CflARClffERIE
i Grinding half of the meat a second time.
4. Incorporating the liver and eggs into the ground meat mixture over an ice bath to keep the force meat cold.
BasicForcemeats 'OO1her and more refined than a country-style forcemeat, a basic forcemeat .~bl}' the most versatile of all. It should be well seasoned, but the seaftIilgs should not m:lsk the dominant meat's flavor. Examples of basic forceMb are those used in most game p:itcs and terrines as well as trdditional piO en croiite. ,\ basic forceme::11 is made by grinding the mC'dt and fat separately-the .-l twice and the f:1I once. TIle fa t is then worked into the meat, either by or in :I food processor or chopper. A quicker method involves grinding fat and meat together and then blending them in a food processor. rttherer method is used, some recipes call for the incorporation of crushed (t' \0 minimize friction, reduce temperature and add moisture.
'*'
frro:ouRE
FOR PREIlt\RING A BASIC FORCEMEAT
I. Chill all ingredients and equipment thoroughly. 1l1roughout preparation,
theyshouJd remain at temperatu res below 40c F (4 C C). 1 Cut all meats into an appropriate size for grinding. j ~!arinalc, under refrigeration, the dominant me:!t and pork with the desired herbs, spices and liquors. t If using liver, grind it and force it through a sieve. 1 Cui the fatback into an appropriate size ,lOd freeze. , Grind the meats twice, once through the grinder's large die and then through the medium die; hold on an ice bath. 1. Grind the chilled or frozen fa t once through the medium die and add it to the meat mixture. , 'fork the fat into the meat over an ice bath or in a well-chilled food processor or chopping machine. I Orer an ice bath, add any required eggs, panada and/or garnishes and work them into Ihe mixture. • Cook 3 small panion of the forcemeat in stock or water; adjust the seasonings and texture as appropriale. II. Refrigerate the forcemem until needed. :\n alternative method for prep:lring a basic forcemeat replaces steps 6 to 9 tilt the following procedures:
" Grind the meals :lnd fats together twice.
("'\!t.
793
794
~
C1WTf'f,'R 27
7n. Place them in a food processor or chopper and blend until smooth. Sa. Add any required eggs or panada while the machine is running and Ibl them in with the meal and fal. 9n. Remove the forcemeat from the machine and, working over an ice ~ fold in any garnishes b}' hand.
Whichever method is used, a particularly warm kitchen or a lengthy 1\& ning time in the food processor or chopping machine may n(.'cessitate the» dition of small quantities of crushed ice to properly emulsify the f(}["(tl!);1 Add the ice bit by bit while the machine is running. ~ ~======
RECIPE 27.3
BASIC FORCEMEAT Yield: 4 lb. 8 oz. (2 kg) Veal, diced Lean pork, diced Brandy Pate spice Salt White pepper Fatback, diced
I lb. 8 oz. I lb. 8 oz. 2 oz. 2 tsp. I 1/2 tsp. 1T l ib. 8 oz.
Eggs
4
Ham, medium dice Pistachio nuts Black olives, chopped coarse
4 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz.
650 g 650 g 60 ml 10 ml 7ml 1T 650 g 4 12{) g 60g 60g
1. Combine the veal :tnd pork with the bl1lndy, pate spice, salt and 2.
3. 4. 5.
wb~
pepper; marinate under refrigeration for sevcl1Il hours. Grind the meats through the grinder's large die and again through the smaI die. Grind the fatback through the grinder's small die. Combine the meal and fat in the bowl of a fexxl processor and blend untJ they are emu lsified. Work in the eggs unti1the forcemeat is smooth and well emulsified. OolKt overprocess the forcemeat.
1. Grinding the me:ltthrough the chilled grinder.
2. Combining the rat with the meal in the food processor.
ClIARCUTERI8 ~
,\dding the eggs to the meat.
4. Folding the garnishes into the forcemeat.
Fold in the ham, pistlchio nuts and olives. Cook a small portion of the forcemeat by poaching or 5.1uteing it. Taste .md adjust the seasonings as necessary. The forcemeat is now re:ady to use as desired in the preparation of piltes, galamines and sausages.
1tmIll~.
~ wnute \"JIUl'S pt:r t.pz. (36.8) serving; OI to rlcs 140. TOlai fal 12 g, SalUr.uc:d fal 4.; g. ChobImll IS mg. Sodlulli 80 mg, TOiai carbo h ),d ra lcs 1 g, l"rOlcin 7 g
Mousseline Forcemeats ~ JlOIlCrir
made mousseline forccmcm is light , airy and delicately flavored. [t often made with fish or shellfish but sometimes with veal, pork, feathrred glme or poultry. (A mousseline forcemeat is nOt the same as a mousse, '~.rll usually contains gelatin and is discussed later.} .\ mousseline forcemeat is prepared b}' processing ground mealS and cream l1afood processor: often egg whites are added to lighten and enrich the mixlit, The proportion of fish or dominant meat to eggs to cream is vel)' im:nun!. Too m:lO}' egg whites, and the mousseline will be rubbel)'; tOO few, mit may nOt bind together. If too much cream is added, the mousseline will ~ tOO soft or will fall apart during cooking . .\ mousseline forcemeat can be served hOi or cold. It can be used to make !till o,Jlbage5 and a variety of timbales and terrines. Or it can be used to make q.K'Ikllcs, which are discussed later. A shrimp mousseline is used with the ~.IupititCS of Sole, Recipe 19. 24. ~ 00\1
PRocwURE FOR PREPARJNG A MOUSSELINE FORCEMEAT L Otill all ingl'\.-'(\ienlS and equipment thoroughly. TIltoughout preparation, they should remain at temperatures below 40"F (4 CC). 1 CUI all me:llS into an appropriate size for processing. j Grind the meat in a cold food processor until smooth. Do not overprocess. t Add eggs and pulse until just blended. 1 A(!d Crt."llOl and seasonings in a steady stre:Ul1 while the m:lChine is running. Stop the machine and scrape down the sides of the bowl once or twice during the processing. Do not mn the machine :my longer than Ill'CCS5.1ry to achieve a smooth forcemeat. , ~ tl'Sired. p;!ss the forcemeat through a drum sieve to remove any sinew or bits of oone.
795
796
<'!\.
C1WW1 27
7. Over an ice bath, fold in any garnishes b)' hand. 8. Poach a small amoum of the mousseline in stock or water. Taste and the seasonings and texture as necessary. 9. Refrigerate umil ready for use.
====== ~ ===== RECIPE 27.4
MOUSSEliNE FORCEMEAT Yield: 4 lb. (1.8 kg) Fbh , ~callop-" ,
:.killlt:~
chickt:1l
breast or lean veal
2 lb.
900g 4
Egg whiles Salt
4 1 TI)Sp.
15 ml
White pepper
IT
IT
Nutmeg
n
Cayenne pepper
IT I qL
rr rr
Heavy cream
I It
1. Grind the dominant meat through a large die. 2. Process the meat in a food processor umil smQO{h.
3. Add the egg whites one at a time and pulse the processor until they art • corpormed.
4. Scrnpe down the sides of the processor's bowl and add the spices. 5. With the machine running, add the cream in a stead}, stream.
6. Scrape down the bowl again and process the mousseline until it is and well mixed. Do not overprocess. 7. Remove the mousseline from the machine and hold in an ice bath. If aodilional smoothness is desired, force the mousseline through a drum ;ieft in small batches using a plastic scraper or rubber spatula. 8. Cook a small pollion of the forcemeat by poaching it Taste and adjusl th: seasonings and texture as necessary. The forcemea t is now ready to use as desired in the preparation of p:lt6 terrines, galantines and sausages. 1. Processing the ground meat in a
cold food processor just until smoolh.
2. Adding the eggs and pulsing until blended.
Approxim:ue values per l-(lz. 02'8) serving, Calories 80, Total fat 7 g. Saturated f.1I 4 g. 0I0D terol 30 mg, Sodium 25 mg , Total carbohydrat<'$ I g. Protein 4 g, Vitamin A 8%
3. Adding the cream in a steady stream while the machine runs.
4. Passing the forcemeat through a dnun sieve to ensure a smoom finished product.
CHARClffERlE
[lltu,lIes ~Iles
are small dumpling-shaped pollions of a mousseline forcemeat JChed in an appropriately flavored Stock. Quenelles are a traditional garnish . man}' soups and a popular appetizer usually accompanied by a tOllL1to l'i or a sauce based on a fish veloute_TIle technique used for making and '.g quenelles is also used for testing the seasoning and consistency of a illS.'tline forcemeat.
MIouRE FOR PREPARING QUENELLES
/. Prepare a mousseline forcemeat. Z Bring an appropriately flavored po3ching liquid to a simmer. ~ l'>e two spoons to form the forcemea t inca oblong-shaped dumplings. For )ll1Jll
queneJles, use small spoons; for larger quenelles, use larger spoons.
t Poach the quenclles until donc. Test by breaking one in half to check the
renter's doneness. 1 ~nu[[ soup-garnish-sized quenclles can be chilled in ice water. drnined and held for service. Reheat them in a small amount of stock before garnishing !he soup.
Forming the quenelles using two spoons and poaching until done.
USING FORCEME47S .m--, mmealS are used as basic components in the preparation of other foods, . iuding tcrrines, pates, galancines and sausages. Aspic jelly is also an imporJIll romponent of these products.
Terrines, Pates and Galantines ·:.aiJtioluJly, a pate was a fine savory meat filling wrnpped in pastry, baked hot or cold. A te rrine was considered more basic, consisting of ~' ground and highl)' seasoned mealS baked in an eallhenware mold l!Il al\\"Jy~ served cold. (The mold is also called a terrine, derived from the frmch word terre, meaning eallh.) Today, many types of pates are baked in Ill-type IXlns without a cnlst, which :Jccording to tradition would make them ~, while pates baked in pastry are called piites en emote. Thus, the \'I'Ill.'i plile and lerri"e are now lIsed almost interchangeably. Galantines are iJde from forcemeats of poultry, game or suckling pig wrapped in the skin ithe bird or animal and poached in an approprime stock. JOXI St'J"I"ed
r""Ia.
797
798 '""" CHAmR 27
•
I / /
J. Lining a mold with thin slices of
fatback.
2. Filling the terrine with the forceme;:l1 and garnish.
Terrines, pates and gaiantines are often made with forcemeats layered \\11 garnishes to produce a decorative or mosaic effect when sliced. A wide \;mety of foods can be used as garnishes, including strips of ham, fatback il tongue; mushrooms o r other vegetables; tnlffles and pistachiO nuts. Gam~ should always be cooked before they are added 10 the p{ite, terrine or gabnline, or they will shrink during cooking, creating air pockets.
Piile Pans, Molds and Terrilles
Pate pans, molds and terrines come in a variery of shapes and sizes. Pates tha: are nO! baked in a crust can be prepared in standard metal loaf pans of.1lr! shape, although rectangular ones make portioning the cooked pate much €'.l~ ier. For piltes en croGte, the best Ixms are collapsible or hinged, thin-mtw ones. They make it easier to remove the pate after baking. Collapsihle aB! hinged pans come in various shapes and sizes from small plain redan~t-,]I} large intricately fluted ovals. Traditional earthenware molds and terrincs as lI."a as ones made from enamel, metal, glass or even plastic are available. ~lOSltl.'f rines are rectangular or oval in sbape. Several of these pans are illustrated iI Chapter 5, Tools and Equipment. Terl'il1eS Terrines are forcemeats baked in a mold without a crust. The mold can bedr traditional earthenware dish or some other appropriate metal, enamel or gb." mold. An}' t}'pe of forcemeat can be used 10 make a terrine. The terrine C1fJ be as simple as a baking dish filled with a forcemeat and baked until dono: .\ more attractive terrine can be constnJcted b}' layering the forcemeat with gn. nishes to create a mosaic effect when sliced. A terrine can even he byt'red with different forcemeats , for example, a pink salmon mousseline layered 1Iit; a white pike mousseline. PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING T ERRL\lES
3.
Placing the herb-decorated terrine
in a water bath.
4. Slicing (he finished terrine.
1. Prepare the desired forcemeat and garnishes and keep refrigenlled until needed . z. Line a mold with thin slices of fatback, blanched leaf}' vegetables or othet appropriate liner. (Some chefs claim that the fatback keeps the terrine moist during cooking; most modern chefs do not agree but neverthelCSli use it for aesthetic purposes.) The lining should overlap slightly, completely covering the inside of the mold and extending over the edgeri the mold by approximately 1 inch (2.5 centimeters). Alternatively, line the mold with plastic wrap. 3. Fill the terri ne with the forcemeat and garnishes, being careful not 10 crt"JIe air pockets. Tap the mold several times on a solid work surface to remol·t any air pockets. 4. Fold the liner or plastic wrap over the forcemeat and, if necessary, ll& additional pieces to completely cover its surface. 5. If desired, garnish the top of the terrine with herbs that were used in the preparation of the forcemeat. 6. Cover the terrine with its lid or aluminum foil and bake in a W!lter oolh ina 350°F (J80°C) oven. Regulate the oven temperantre so lhat the \\"atrrSla), between 170°F and 180°F (77°C82°C). 7. Cook the terrine to an internal temperature of 150°F (66°C) for meat-Imed forcemeats or 140°F (60°C) for fish- or vegetable-based forcemeats. 8. Remove the terrine from the oven and allow il to cool slightly. If desired. pour off any fat and liquid from around the terrine and cover it with cool liquid aspic jelly.
CIlARCUfERJE
""'.
799
~I'eral types of terrines are not made from traditional forcemeats; many IJbers are nOt made from forcemeats at all, But all are nonetheless called lerlIeS because they are molded or cooked in the eanhenware mold called a ter• These include liver (and foie gras) terrines, vegetable terrines, brawns or epic terrines, mousses, rillenes and confns. [hoer tcrrifies are popular and casy to make, Pureed POUllry, pork or veal m are mixed with eggs and a panada of cream and flour, then baked in a llback-lined terrine. Although most livers puree easily in a food processor, a mJther ~nished produd is achieved if the livers are forced through a drum W\'c after or in lieu of pureeing them in the processor. £Ole gras terrifies arc made with the fattened geese or duck livers called be gras. Foie gras is unique, even among other poultry livers, in thai it conlIt.\ almost entirely of fat. (See Chapter 17.) II requires special attention durI(! rooking: if it is cooked improperly or too long, it turns into a puddle of my expensive fat. Vqetable tcrrines, which have a relatively low fat content, arc becoming D."reaSingl)' popular. Beautiful vegetable terrines are made by lining a terrine lib a blanched leafy vegetable such as spinach, then alternating layers of two «Ihree separately prepared vegetable fillings to create contrasting colors and 1I11)f5, A different style of vegetable terrine is made by suspending brightly cdored I'cgetables in a mousseline forcemeat to creatc a mosaic pattern when
1ic
~
==========
AsPICjEUY
AIpic ieI~' is a savory jelly produced by in-
!he gelatin contenl of a strong stock tlen clarifying the stock following the II)( preparing consollll~ discussed in !I, Soups. Brown stock produces an zspic jelly; ""nite stock produces a more
-""'.
IJIOOugb gelatin is a nalura! ingredient in all gco:I meal or poultry stocks, ilS traIlon le't'el is nOI normally high IlIpnxture a finn aspic jelly. Mditional . . . is usually added to the stock in order 10 ,.,uing (setting). This can be done in ~'O ~ The 6~ is to produce:t stock with an ex_ high gelatin content by using gelatiand bones such as calves' fret, pigs' l1li pott skin; the second is to add plain
5
lamts
gelatin 10 a finished stock. An easier method of preparing aspic jelly is to add gelatin directly to a fial'Onul ~nished consomme, AspiC jell)' has many applications throughout the kitchen. In addition to adding fla,,'Or and shine, a coating of aspic ;elly Prell!llts dis· played foods (rom drying OUI and inhibits the oxidation of sliced red meats. Aspic jelly is often lightly flal'Ored ...ith liquors such as madeira and cut into decoratil'e garnishes for both plated presentations and buffet displays. II is also used to bind sal'Ory mousses, glaze slices of pare and coal molded mousses. Aspic jell)' is funneled into cooked pares en croOte to ~11 the gaps cTealed when Ihe foJtemeat shrinks during the cooking process. Aspic ielly is also the basis of aspic molds or terrines (often simply
called aspics), in ""tlich layers of cooked mealS or \-egetables are bound together and held in plxe by the aspic jelly. Many of these uses are discussed later. Thc gelatin content of aspic jelly varies depending upon its intended lISe. tlSpic jelly to be used only on a displ:ry can h;lll! a very high gelatin content for easier handling. Mpic jelly to be eaten should be bidy ~nn when cold, gelled at room temperature bUI tcnder enough to melt quickly in the mouth when eaten. To test Ihe gelatin content of a liquid, pour a tea· spoon (S milliliters) onto a plate and refriger. ate the plate for a few minutes. If the liquid does nOl. gel finnl)" additional gelalin can be softened in a small amount of cool liqUid then added to the hOi liquid.
800
~
CHA?!FJ? 27
TABLE
27.1
~ GEIATL~ CONCENTRATIONS
Tnx: of Gel
Amount of Gelatin per Gallon (4 It) of Water
Soft Firm
2 oz. (60 g) " oz. (120 g)
Very Firm
B oz.
+ (225 g +)
Typical Use Cubed aspic ;Clly for edible gamt.tr. Brushing slices of p-Jtc or galanurr. gbzing edible centerpieces; rnoIdill terrines. aspics :lnd br:nvns 11131 will be sliced. Nonedible purposes such as ~ nonedible centerpiece;; or !raj's kr presentations.
or low-acid fmits) :llong the mold's bottom. adding aspic jelly to cQ\'erthe nish and repeating the procedure until the mold is full. A mousse can be sweet or savory. Sweet mousses are described in Or.(. ter 34, Custards, Creams, Frozen Desserts and Dessert Sauces. A <JI mousse-which is not a mousseline forcemeat-is made from fully ccdt meats, poultry, game, fish, shellfish or vegetables that are pureed and co bined with a bechamel or other appropriate sauce, bound with gelatin 3rI.i lightened with whipped cream. A mousse can be molded in a decoraea llspic-jelly-coaled mold such as Ihal described nexl, or il can be formed molds lined with plaslic wrap, which is peeled off after the mous:;e is molded. A small mousse can be served as an individual portion: a hr!r molded mousse can be displayed on a buffet.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING AsPIC-JELI,y-ComD CIIILI.ED Moussss
A mold can be lined with aspic jell}', then decorated and filled with II mousse. The aspic-jelly-cooted mousse is then unmold,,-'d for an attraaiw (II' sentation.
1. Sct a metal mold in icc water and add 8 ounces (250 grams) of cool liquid aspic jelly. Swirl the mold so the aspic jelly :Idheres to all sides. Pour out the excess aspic jelly. Repeat as needed to achieve the desired thickness; 1/4 inch (6 millimeters) or less is usually sufficient.
2. Garnish the mold by dipping pieces of vegetable or other foods in the liquid aspic jelly and placing them carefully inside the aspic-jelly-coated mold. The mold ClIO now be filled with a cold filling such as a mousse.
3. Refrigerate the mold until il is 1\ chilled. Unmold Ihc aspic by dipping the mold in warmwater. then inverting and t:lpping the mold on a platc.
CHARClJlF.RlE r"!a. 801
Iillmes and conftts are actually preserved meats. Rillettes are prepared by ing and slow-cooking pork or fatty poultry such as duck or goose in us amounts of their own fat until the meat falls off the bone. The warm is mashed and combined with a ponion of the cooking fat. The mixrure Ibm packed into a crock or terrine, and rendered fat is strained over the top lf:Il It. Rillettes are eaten cold as a spread accompanied b}' bread or toast. Contit is prepared in a similar manner except that before cooking the meat poultry is often lightly salt-cured to draw Out some moisture. nle confit is 6tn cooked until very tender but not falling apan. Confits are generally served • Uke rillettes, confits can be preserved by sealing them with a layer of I3i!ll'd rendered fat. Properly prepared and sealed rillettes and confits will tltp for several weeks under refrigeration. Although it is sometimes incorrectly called chicken liver pate, cho pped Gkttn liver is prepared in a similar fashion to a rilleue. Chopped chicken 1Itr, however, will not have the keeping qualities of traditional rillettes or conibbmuse it is not normally sealed in a crock or lerrine with rendered fat. It mud be eaten within a day or two of its preparation.
/Ills en CrolUe (msidered by some 10 be R forcemeats baked in a
the pinnacle of the ch:lrcutier's art, pates en croGte crnst. The force meat can be country-style, basic or 8JJSSeline, but a basic forcemeat is most commonly used. Although pfltts en aOOle can be baked without using a mold, a mold helps produce a more atQ'C finished product.
liIi Dollgb (Plite flit PiiM) The crust surrounding a baking forcemeat must be durable enough to withIIIIXI the long baking process and hold in the juices produced as the pate lUes. Unfortunately, some of the more durable mists are tough and unpleas.. toea!. The gool is to achieve a balance so that the crnst will hold the juices of the IiIbng pate and still be relatively pleasanl 10 Ihe palate. Some pates, especially _ delk:ne ones such as fish mousselines, can be wrapped in brioche i>Jgh (Recipe 31.18).
F========== ~ ============ RECIPE 275
PArE
DOUGH
r.ld, I lb. 8 0'. (680 g) AlI·purpose flour Shonening Soh 1'-a!er Egg
lib. 7 oz.
450 g 200 g
I 112 tsp.
7 ml
5 oz.
ISO ml
I
I
1 Place the flour in the bowl of a mLxer. Add the shortening and mix on low speed until smooth. 1 Combine the salt, water and egg; add them 10 the flour and shortening mi.lIUn!.
COli/hi lled
802
,-"\!I:~
ClIAPl'ER 27
3. Knead until smooth and refrigerate. TIle dough will be easier to work lit. if allowed to rest for at least 1 hour. Approxim:ue v~tues per l-oz. (36-g) servillg: Calories 150. Tow fat 9 g. Satu rated fat 2 g. (bob lerol 10 mg. Sodium 100 mg. Tow carboh)'dr:ues 15 g. Protein 2 8
PROCEDURE FOR AssEMBLING AND BAKING PArts EN CRoOTE
After preparing a forcemeat and pastl)' dough, aU that remains is to asserri* and bake the plite en croute. The amount of pastl)' dough and forr:eorz needed is determined by the size of the mold or pan chosen.
1. Cutting the dough into a large rectangle.
2. Pressing the dough into the mold with a floured dough ball.
3. Lining the dough-covered mold with thin slices of fllloock.
1. Prepare the pate dough and the forcemeat, keeping the forceme:u refrigerated until needed. 2. Roll out the dough into a rectangular shape 1/8 inch (3 millimeters) thick. 3. Using the p,itc mold as a pattern, dctermine how much dough is needed\(! line its inside; allow enough dough along each side of the mold's length w cover the top when folded over. ~ I ark the dough. Cut the dough sliglld}' larger than the marked lines. Cut a SC('ond rectangular piecc of dough lh:I is slightly larger than the top of the mold; it will be used as a lid. 4. Ughtly butter the inside of the mold. 5. Ughtly dust the large rectangle of dough with flour, fold it over and transfer it to (he mold. 6. Use your thumbs :md a dough ball made from dough lTimmings to form the dough neatly into the corners of the mold. Continue until the dougblo of even thickness on all sides and in the comers. 7. Trim the dough, leaving 3/4 inch (2 centimeters) on the ends and enoogh dough to cover the tOp along the sides. 8. Line the dough-covered mold with thin slices of fatback or ham. allowing 3/4 inch (2 centimeters) extra around the top of the mold, or as dirroed in the recipe. This byer helps protect the pastl)' crust from coming in contact with the moist forcemelll, which would make it soggy. 9. Fill the lined mold with the forcemeat to 1/2 inch (J.2 cenlimetersl I:le\m. the top of the mold, pressing it wel! into the corners to avoid air podt1.' L1yer and garnish as appropriate. 10. Fold the fatback or h:lm over the lap of the forcemeat, using :ldditional pieces if neceSS:l1)' to cover its entire surf:lce. Fold the pasll)' over the forcemeat.
4. Filling [he lined mold with the forcemeat and garnish.
5. Placing the lap on the pate.
CfIARClfl'ERJE
, Pouring aspic jelly into the ste,lnl hole of the baked plitt: through :111 aluminum foil chimney.
7. Slicing the p.lte with a thin-bladed
knife.
II. Brush the exposed surface of the pastry with egg wash; carefully cap with
the top piece of dough. Press :my overlapping dough down inside the sides of the mold with :I sma!] SPlLtU!a. 11. Using round cutters, cut one or two holes in the top to allow steam to escape during cooking. Egg-wash the surf:lce. Pl:tce a doughnut-shaped pit'Ce of dough around each of the holes. Egg-wash any decorations. IJ, Bake the p:ltc in:l preheated 450°F (230°C) ovcn for 15 minutes. Then col't'r the surface of the pate with aluminum foil. Reduce the heat to 350°F (1m) and continue Ix.king until the intemallcmperature reaches ISOOF (650() for meat patL'S or 140"F (6O"C) for fish ,md \"egetable pates. It ,\Ikm' the p;:itc to cool for al IC'Jst I hour or overnight. Using a funnel , JXlUr 0001 liquid aspic ;elly through thc holes to fill the space created when the pate shrank during cooking. Allow the p:ite en croflle to cool OI't'might before slicing. IIocEDuRE FOR GI,IZING P,i rt SU CI~ WlTl I AsPIC JmY 'lIice:i of chilled tcrrines, p:1tcs en croflle or ga llan!ines (discussed next) may ~ garnished and coated with aspic 10 preserve their color, prevenl drying and
lll'Jte a morc attractive presentation.
L Cool the clarified aspic jelly by ~owlr stirring
it over :111 ice bath.
2. Bmsb or spoon the aspic ;elly over slices of chilled pate arranged on a cooling rack. Repeal Ihe process until the coaling reaches the desired thickness.
~~
803
804
~
CHAPTER 27
Galal1lil1es A classic galantine is a boned chicken stuffed with a chicken-based forceoo to resemble its original shape and then poached. Today, galantines are
PROCI\DURE FOR P REPARING A POUlTRY GAIANTINE 1. Bone the chicken by CUlling through the skin along the length of the backbone and then following the natural curvature of the carcass. Keep ~ the meat attached to the skin. Remove the legs and wings by cutting through the joints when you reach them; leave the legs and wings auachOO to the skin. Then cut off lhe wings. Bone the thighs and legs, leaving the skin and meat attached to the rest of the bird. Trim the skin to form a largt' rectangle. 2. Prepare a forcemeat using lhe meat from the skinned bird or any OIlier appropriate meat. Reserve a portion of the meat as garnish if desired. Prepare any other garnishes. Refrigerate the forcemeat and garnishes until needed. 3. Spread out the skin and meat on plastic wrap or several layers of cheesecloth with the skin side down and the flesh up. 4. Remove the chicken tenderloins and pull the tendon out of e'lCh. Bunert1)· the breasts and tenderloins and cover the e ntire skin with a thin Jayerot" meat.
1. l3utterflying the breasts and tenderloins and placing a
thin layer of meat over the skin.
2. Arranging the forcemeat and garnishes in a cyHndricll shape across the center of the skin.
CIIARClffERlE
L'sing the plaStiC wrap to roll the galantine into a tight cylinder.
4. St!(:uring the gahmtille WiLli heavy-
duty aluminum foil .
1 Arrange the forcemeat and garnishes in a cylindrical shape across the center of the skin. , t.:sing the plastic or cheesecloth to assist the process, tightly roll the skin wuoo (he forcemeat and garnishes to form a tight cylinder. 1. TIC the ends of the cheesecloth with butcher's (wine and secure the galanline al even intervals using strips of cheesecloth. If plastic wrap was used, wrap the galantine with heavy-duty aluminum foil. • Poach the galamine in a full-flavored stock to an internal temperature of lSOOF (66 C) for meat-based forcemeats or 140 F (60 C) for fish- or \·eget:tble·based forcemeats. , Cool the galamine in its cooking liquid until it can be handled. Remove the meeseciQ{h or plastic wrap and aluminum foil and rewrap the galantine in de3n cheesecloth or plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight before decorating « slicing. Q
Q
Q
Sausages Sausages are forcemeats stuffed into casings. For centuries, sausages wnsisted d ground meat, usually pork, and seasonings. Today, not only are sausages lade from pork, but also from game, beef, veal, poultry, fish, shellfish and (ltn vegetables. There are three main types of sausages: L fresh sausages include breakfast s.1usage links and Italian sausages. They are made with fresh ingredients thm have not been cured or smoked. 1. Smoked and cooked sausages are made with raw meat products treated I\ith chemicals. usually the preservative sodium nitrite. Examples are kielbasa, bologna and hot dogs. j Dried or hard sausages are made with cured meats, then air-dried under COIltroUed conditions. Dry sausages may or may not be smoked or cooked. Dried or hard sausages include salami, pepperoni, Lebanon bologna and landjiiger.
Smoked and cooked sausages and dry or hard sausages are rarely prepared food service operations. Rather, they are pn:xluced by specialty !OOps and will not be discussed here. We do, however, discuss Ihe ingredients IKI procedures for a variety of fresh sausages that can be prepared in almost Ill· kitchen. II ~'Pical
~
5. Slicing the finished product.
805
806
C
CHAPTER 27
Sausage Components Sausage Meats Sausage meats are forcemeatS with particular characteristics and Har(X· ings. Coarse Italian and lamb s..lusages, for example, are simpl}' a coonii'!' style forcemeat witham liver and with different seasonings, stuffed inIG C2Y ings and formed into links. HOt dogs, bratwurst and other fine-texrured sausages are variations of basic forcemeats stuffed into casings and fOl"llrd into links.
Sausage Casings Although S
Preparing Sausages Equipmellt for Making Sausages Sallsage Nozzles
Sausage-stuffing mach ines are best if you eng,lge in large-scale sausage production. Otherwise, all you need is a grinder with a sausage nozzle. Nozzb are ava ilable in several sizes to accommodate the v;trious casing sizes.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING SAUSAGES I . Prepare a forcemeat. 2. Thoroughly chill all parts of the sausage slUffer that wHJ come in oontad with the forcemeat. 3. Rinse and soak the casings if using nalllr.tl ones. Cut Ihe casings into 4-to 6-foot (1.2-1.8-meter) lengths. 4. Put the SaUs.1ge in the sausage sluffer. 5. Slide the entire casing over the nozzle of the s.1usage sluffer. Tie the end in a knot and pierce with a skewer 10 prevent an air pocket. 6. Support and guide the casing off the end of the nozzle as the sausage is extmded from the nozzle iOlo the casing. 7. After all the sausage has been stuffed inlO the casing. twist or tie the sausage inlo uniform links of the desired size.
CIIARCl/l'F.RIE
L ~Iiding the casing over the nozzle
of the sausage stuffer.
j ~pponing :lnd guiding the casing
off the end of the nozzle 3S the \111S:lge is extruded from the nuchine into the casing.
C""'\!\.
807
2. KnOtting and piercing the casing with a skewer.
4. Twisting the sausage imo uniform links.
SALr-CURING) BRlNING AND SMOKING
.N-,
Uiring. brining and smoking are ancient techniques for preserving food. iOOJ), foods such as hams, corned beef and smoked salmon are salt-cured, mned or smoked primarily for flavor. Cured meats have a characteristic pink
t'I'.b clUscd by the readion of sodium nitrite, which is added during procrssing. with the natumlly occurring myoglobin protein in the meat.
~II-Cltring ~
Ando uiUc-A /'try splc)' smoietl porlt Sill/sage, popul(/r III CiJjl1ll Cllisine.
Cho r i1 A C{Jflrse. S{1icy parlt S(/I/${/ge j/(It'ON'li llitb grolllld chiles alld retllot't.'fJjrom its WSfll8 before r:ooking; 11Se(1;1I "'erialll and $fmW! cllisillt!!. MortadcIl3-,(1/ //ali(1II smoieJ SiJllSllge made u."ilh groulld bff{. pori and porlt /al. j1Ol:Qred N"iJb rorimder alltl u·biIe Nine, iI is air drierl alltl /xIS a delialle j1m'Or; also (I ftJrge Americall boIogml.fJfJe pori sal/S(lge s!1It1tkd u."ilb port/at (Illd gurlk;
Peppcroni-A hard, thin. aiHlrietllln/iall red ami black pepper.
S(lIlSt1ge Sf!t/S()1I1?r1 u"ilh
SoppresS313-.1/xlrtl. fig«! lin/ian sa/OII11; !X)melimes ronlt!d u."iIb cr(id«I pefI("IerrXJr1lS or
""".
808 C""t!\..
C1Wl'ER 27
Brining A brine is actually a very salty marinade. Most brines have approximately !/II salinity, which is equivalent to 1 pound (450 grams) of salt per gallon (41i1Mi of water. As with dry-salt cures, brines can also contain sugar, nitrite<>, bob and spices. Brining is sometimes called pickling. Today, most cured meats arc prepared in large production facilitie<> \\iloe the brine is injected into the meat for rapid and uniform distribution. Coolmercially brined corned beef is cured by this process, as are most CO!JlJJ01 hams. After brining, hams are further processed by smoking.
Smoking There are two basic methods of smoking foods: cold smoking and hOi sJOOk· ing. The principal difference is that hot smoking actually cooks the food, while cold smoking does nol. Both are done in a smoker specifically designed for this purpose. Smokers can be gas or electriC; they vary greatly in size and operation. But they hll"r several things in common. All consist of a chamber that holds the food beq smoked, a means of burning wood to produce smoke and a heating elemert Different types of wood can be used to smoke food. Specific woods are selected to impart specific flavors. Hickory is often used for pork products; alder is excellent for smoked salmon. Maple, chestnut, juniper, mesquite and many other woods are also used. Resinous woods such as pine give food a biuer fb. vor and should be avoided. Cold smoking is the process of exposing foods to smoke at temperalU!el of 50°F to 85°F (IOOC-29"C). Meat, poultry, game, fish, shellfish, cheese, nuI$ and even vegetables can be cold-smoked successfully. Most cold-s~ meats are generally salt-cured or brined first. Salt-curing or brining adds 1lal"OC allows the nitrites (which give the ham, bacon and other smoked mealS thei distinctive pink color) to penelrate the flesh and, most important, eXlnlClS moisture from (he food , allowing the smoke to penetrate more easily. Coldsmoked foods are actually still raw. Some, like smoked salmon (lox), are eatt'll without further cooking. Most, such as bacon and hams, must be cooked before eating. Hot smoking is the process of exposing foods to smoke al temperatures d 200°F to 250°F C93°C-121°C). As with cold smoking, a great variety of foo:ls can be prepared by hot smoking. Meats, poultry, game, fish and shellfish tlUI are hOI-smoked also benefit from salt-curing or brining. Although most IK(. smoked foods are fully cooked when removed from the smoker, many ~ used in other recipes that call for further cooking.
Pork Products
Sliced&COn
Cauadian &icon
Preparing hams and curing and smoking pork products are a traditional ~ of charcuterie. Although mosl bacon and ham are now produced in large COOlmercial facilities, the chef still works with these products and must be able 10 identify them properly. Most bacon comes from a hog's fatty belly. Common bacon is produced by brining and cold smoking trimmed JXXk belly. It is available in slab or sliced form. Sliced bacon is purchased by COUJl (number of slices) per pound; thick-sliced bacon runs 10-14 slices per pourri while thin-sliced bacon may contain as many as 28-32 slices per pound. Canadian bacon is produced from a boneless pork loin, trimmed.so Ih:u only a thin layer of fat remains on its surface. It is then brined and smoked.
ClfARClfl'ERlE
~
809
Paocetta is an Italian pork-belly bacon that is not smoked. It is saIH::ured, and often rolled into a cylinder shape. It can be sliced into rounds Dl fried; it is diced, rendered and combined with sauce to make fetruccine arlxJnarn . .~ fresh ham is a hog's hind leg; it is a primal cut. Many processed prodPancet/a Il15 produced from the primal fresh ham are also called ham. Ham, in the United States, describes a variety of processed pork products, IlISI of which come from the primal fresh ham. Boneless or formed hams It produced by sepanuing a primal ham into its basic IllSCJes, defatting Ihe meat, curing it, stuffing the meal into various-sized and -shaped casings and rooking it. Boneless or formed hams are either lmIied or chemical smoke flavoring is nIed during the curing process. The quality MIPS No. 501, lIam short shank, cured and d boneless or formed hams varies greatly. smoked The beSt hams are formed from only one or 1\'0 large muscles, have low fat content and 00 added water other than that used during me curing process. Hams of lesser quality are krmed from many small pieces of muscle nI ha\'e a higher fat and water content. \1m)' boneless or fanned hams are listed in The hI Brl)m Guide and arc indexed by the \\..\IP/IMPS system. Country ham is a specialty of the southeastern United States. Country _ are dry-cured, smoked and hung to air-dry for a period ranging from ItIml weeks to more than a year. During drying, a mold develops on the IMPS 11'0.5 10, lIam, boneless, skinless, bm rind that must be scrubbed off before the ham is cooked. It is best C/lred and smoJwi,jilf/), cooked rooked by first soaking, then slow simmering. The most famous country hams It Vrrginia hams; those from Smithfield, Virginia, are considered the finest. Only hams produced in nltal areas can be called country hams; others must It labeled country-style ham. Prosciutto is Italian for ham. What we call prosciutto in this country is a1Ied Parma in Italy. Parma ham, produced near that Italian City, is m.1de IrooJ hogs fed on the whey of cheese processed nearby. It is salt-cured and .-dried but not smoked. The curing process makes it safe and wholesome to ronsume raw. Several domestic varieties of prosciutto are produced, varying Proscilllto .'i.lely in qualit}'. Imported prosciuttos are much larger than the domestic vaIitties because Italian hogs are larger when butchered. 1'tsIphalian ham is dry-cured, brined and then smoked with beechwood. W!hentic Westphalian hams are produced in the Westphalia region of GerlWly and are quite similar to prosciutto. TIley are sold bone-in or boneless. Their characteristic flavor is derived from the juniper berries used in the curIIg process and the beechwood used for smoking. Jqlpered
SAUCE CHA UD-FROID
,N-,
W:e (haud-froid (French for hot-cold) is prepared hOi bur served cold. Tra~lly used to coat meats, poultry or fish that were eaten cold, sauce chaudfroid is now more Iypically used to coat a whole poached salmon or whole lOlSIed poultry ilem, which is then furthe r decorated and used as a center~. As with aspic jeily, chaud-frOid thaI is to be eaten should be fairly fiml .ten cold, jelled al room temperallLfe but tender enough to melt quickly in tbe
810 ""- CIWl'ER 27 mouth when eaten. Chaud-frOid used for decorative purposes only should hale a heavier gelatin content and be quite fi rm. which makes it easier to work ",til A classic sauce chaud-froid is a mixture of one pan cream and tWO (lil" stock (veal, chicken and/or fish) strengthened with gelatin. Depending on d. stock lISed, this coating ranges in color from cream to beige. A more fl1IXk>m sauce chaud-frOid (also known as a mayonnaise chaud-froid or mayonnaisecUlee) is based on mayonnaise; it is easier to make than the classic sauce and pro "ides a whiter proollct, which is more desirable when used for centerpieces ============= ~ ============ RECIPE 27.6
MAYONNAISE CHA UD-FROID Yield: 2 ql. (2 It) Aspic jelly (firm to very firm) J\1:Iyonnaise (commercially made) Sour cream
I ql.
I II
lib. lib.
450 g 450g
I . Melt the aspic jelly. 2. In a stainless steel bowl, combine the mayonnaise with the SOUT cream1rxl mix until smooth. 3. Slir the aspic jelly into the mayonnaise and SOllr cream mi.xtun: wr1 smooth . 4. Warm the sauce over a double boiler, stirring gently with a spoon UIlII smooth and :Ill the air bubbles disappe:lr.
PROCEDURE fOR COATING FOODS WITll SAUCE CllAUD-FROlll 1. Cook (usually by poaching or roasting), trim :tnd otherwise prcpan: tht:
item to be decorated. 2. Place the item on a cooling rack over a cle'Jn sheet pan and refrigerate until ready to decorate. (Sa lice that drips into the clean pan can be retbl'd.1 3. Warm an ample llmOUnt of sallce chaud-froid in a stainless steel bowl OIcr a double boiler until it is completely melted. Stir the s.1uce gentl~' with a spoon mther than a whisk in order to prevent air bubbles from forming. 4. W'hen the s.1uce is warm and smooth, remove the bowl from the dooble boiler and place it in an ice bath.
1. Scoring the skin of the fish.
2. Removing the skin.
3. Removing the ci.1rk flesh and preparing the fish for the fi~ cO:lting of sauce chauMroid.
ClIARClffERlE
f.
lilazing the fish with the sauce maud-frOid.
5. Uecorating the fish with \'egetable flowers.
! t.:sing the back of a large ladle, stir the sauce by spinning the bowl and holding the ladle station:I1Y. This should be done almost continuously while the sauce cools. Do not scrape the solidified chaud-froid from the "ides of the bowl as lumps will form. 6. When the sauce has cooled 10 room temperature, remove the ilem to be decorated from the refrigerator and place it on the work lable. ,. Coat the item with the &IUCe in a single, smooth motion. Use a ladle if the item is sln.I11; if it is large, pour the sauce directly from the bowl. The sauce should adhere to the cold food , and the coating should be free of bubbles or ruos. t Repeat as necessary, reusing the sauce that drips onto the sheet pan, until the desired thickness is achieved. l t;sing a paring knife, carefully cut away any sauce from areas that are 10 be left uncoated . II Decorate the item as desired with vegetable flowers or other garnishes. If desired. finish the item by coating the vegetable garnishes with a layer of clear aspic jelly, using the same procedure.
fijONCLUsroN .n-, The classic an of charcuterie is as popular today as ever. Consumers regularly ... high-quality pateS, sausages, hams and other charcuterie products. Although production procedures have changed as new technologies and CGuipmcnt have developed, the basic principles remain the same: Terrines, Jltb and sauS
,(j2UFSTfONS FOR DrSCUSSrON .n-, I E.~pbin why the :Irt of charcutcrie is relevant to the training of modern chefs. 1 Compare the three styles of forcemeat. 3 In what way is a terrine different from a p,itC? How does a pate differ from a p.ite en crottte?
~
6. The decorated fish ready for service.
811
812 """ CJWl1!R 27 4. Describe the differences and the similarities belWeen a ballouine and a galantine.
5. Describe the typical procedure for making sausages. Why is the selectiond casings important? 6. Explain the diffe rence between hot smoking and cold smoking, Describe3 food typically prepared by each of these methods .
• r;;{nDmONAL CHARCUTERIE RECIPES
.f'./)
RECIPE 27.7
SMOKED DUCK AND FOIE GRAS GAIANTINE ON A PEAR GALElTE NOTe: 7bis dishaJ;(Jetlrs in the Chapter flJeningphotograpb. CHEF lELAN'D ATKINSON,
WASltl.~GTOS,
DC
Yield: I Galantine
Duck breast, 10 oz. (300 g), boneless, skinless Duck meat, lean Pork bun, boneless, cubed Pate spice Salt Orange zest Fresh thyme Fresh ginger Juniper berries, crushed Port
Olive oil Fatback, cubed Foie gras pate, diced Ham, medium dice
Pistachios, chopped Fatback, slab Smoker marinade: Brown sugar Garlic, chopped Lemon juice Walnut oil Salt and pepper Galeue (per order): Pears Clarified butter Sugar Italian parsley
I I!b. 8 oz. 2 {Sp.
] lbsp. IThsp. 1 tsp. I tsp. 10 4 oz. 1 oz. 8 oz.
3 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. as needed
I
45D g 240 g 10 ml 15 ml 15 ml 5m! 5m! 10 120m]
lOml 240 g 90g 60g 60g as needed
2 oz. 1 tsp. 3 oz. 6 oz.
60g ;ml 90ml 180 ml
IT
IT
1 tsp. 1/2 ~p. as needed
I 5m! 3m! as needed
I . Cut the duck breast into several long strips.
2. Marinate the duck breast, duck meat and pork in the pate spice, salt, (I. ange zest, thyme, ginger, juniper berries and port for 2 days. 3. Remove the strips of duck breast from the marinade and saUie in the dr.t oil to brown. Remove, drain and reserve.
ClWiCIfJFIlJE
4. Grind the remaining duck meat, pork butt, marinade ingredients and the cubed fatback in a chilled grinder, first through the large die then through tile small die. S Place the ground meat in a stainless steel bowl over an ice bath. Fold in the foie gras, ham and pistachios. , Slice the fatback into thin sheets. Spread a piece of plastic wrap on the work surface and layout the slices of fatback in a large redangle with the
edges o\'erlapping slightly. 7. Place the forcemeat and duck breast strips along the length of the fatback reaangJe so that when the galanline is rolled up the strips of duck will be arranged in the center. llsp lht' plastic wrap 10 roll the galantine into
a large cylinder. a Roll the cylinder in heavy-duty aluminum foil and poach until it reaches 3n internal temperalllre of 14QoF (6o"C). Remove and chill the galantine for at least 6 hours . .9. Combine the ingredients for the smoker marinade in a blender. Unwrap the galantine, brush it with (he smoker marinade and chill for 1 hour. Place the galantine in a smoker and cold smoke for 2 hours. Remove and chill before sliCing. 14 For each galette, core the pear and slice 1/8 inch (3 millimeters) thick. Add the clarified butter to a warnl saute pan and arrange the pears in the pan by overlapping t.he slices to fonn a circle. Sprinkle die pears with the sugar. Saute the galette, using a spatula (0 carefully tum it over when browned on the first side. II, Place a pear ga lelle on a plate and place a slice of gaiantine directly in the center of the galene. Garnish with Italian parsley or as desired. May be accompanied by Cherry Confit (Recipe 25.13). Ippoxunatc \';lloes per 4-ol. (] 14'g) setVing: Calorlel 280, TOlal fat 22 So Satur.lled fat 8 g, Ch<;). ""' 100 mg, Sodium 290 mg, Total carbohydrateli 5 g, PTolein 17 g. Vitamin C 10%, Iron 20%
=========== ~ ============
RECIPE 27.8
WIB SAUSAGE WITH TRICOLOR BEAN SAlAD CIIEf LElAND ATKINSON, WASHlliGTOS, DC
LAMB SAUSAGE 'flrld: 12 4-oz. (120-g) links 1.1mb shoulder
31b
1.5 kg
~Ii
1 lbsp. 2 tsp. I Thsp.
15011
Garlic, chopped Paprika uyenne pepper Bbck pepper Cumin Fresh cilantro, chopped Tricolor I3ean Salad (recipe follows) Baby lettuces, assoned
1/ 2 (Sp. 1/ 2 tsp.
llbsp. 2 Thsp. as needed 12 heads
109
15011 2ml 2m1
IS ml 30m]
as needed 12 heads Continued
'"""
8/3
814
~
CHAPfER 27
2 heads as needed as needed
Belgian endive Olive oil
Red wine vinegar
2 heads as needed as needed
1. Cut the meat in small cubes. 2. Combine the meat with the seasonings and herbs and refrigerate for I
hour. 3. Grind the meat through a medium die directly into casings. 4. Grill or saute the sausage links. 5. Present the cooked links with a portion of the Tricolor Bean Salad gor. nished with baby greens and Belgian endive. Accent with drizzled olive QI and red wine vinegar. Approximate values per 4-oz. (l4().g) serving, Calorll$ 330, Total fat 19 g, Saturated fa! 7 g. a.. lesterol 135 mg, Sodium 680 rug, TotaJ carbohydrates 1 g, Protein 37 g, Iron 2C%
•
.II •
....:II.
TRICOLOR BEAN SALAD
Yield: 24 oz. (700 g) Dijoo mustard Garlic, minced Red onion, small dice Jalapenos, seeded and minced Red wine vinegar Olive oil Black beans, cooked Black-eyed peas, cooked Plum tomatoes, concassee Fresh cilantro, chopped Salt and pepper
2 Thsp. I [Sp.
l oz. 2
30 rul 5 rul 30 g 2 30 ml 45 rut 120 g
2 Thsp. 3 Tbsp. 4 oz. 4 oz. 3 1 bunch
120 g 3 1 bunch
IT
IT
1. Combine the mustard, garlic, onions, jalapenos and red wine vinegar in I
mixing bowl. 2. Slowly whisk in the olive oil in a steady stream.
3. Add the beans, black-eyed peas, tomatoes and cilantro and season withsak and pepper. Refrigerate 1 hour to allow the flavors to blend. Approximate v;llues per l-oz. (27-g) scrving: Calories 30, TotaJ fat 2 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Chobteml 0 mg, Sodium 125 mg, TotaJ carbohydrates 2 g, Protein 1 g, CmlDIS-low fat; 10w!Olia; low calorie
============= ~ ============ RECIPE 27.9
VEGETABLE TERRJNE IN BRIOCHE NOTE: 1bis dish appears ill/be Chap/er (¥Jetling photograpb. CHEF LELAND ATKINSON, WASIUSGTO:-<, DC
Yield: 12 in. x 4 in. x 3 in. 00 Col x 10 cm x 7.5 em) Terrine Chicken breast meat, lean Egg whites
2lb.
3
900g 3
ClIARClffERIE
Heavy cream
4 oz.
Brnndy
2 oz.
120 ml 60 ml
~uuneg
SaJt and pepper
IT IT
IT IT
Carrol, medium dice Broccoli floretS
3 oz. 8 oz.
90g
Shiitake mushrooms, trimmed Olire oil Red bell peppe', medium dice leek, white pan only, medium dice Fresh chives, basil and parsley, chopped Brioche dough Egg yolks, beaten Eggs
"I~
.'.Iadeira aspic
250 g
12-18
12-18
1 oz.
30m!
2 oz.
60g
2 oz.
60g
4 Thsp. 1 lb.
60 ml 450 g
2 2
2 2
1 oz.
lO ml as needed
as needed
I. Dke or grind the chicken and place it in the bowl of a cold food proces-
sor and process. l. Add the egg whites and then the cream and brandy in a steady stream while the motor is running. j, Season the mousseline with nutmeg, salt and pepper and poach a small ~mount to test for texture and seasonings. 4. Adjust the seasonings and transfer to a metal mixing bowl in an ice bath. S Separately blanch the carroo and broccoli; drain and blot dl)' on a paper toweL
, Saute the shiitakes in olive oil. Drain and chill. In the same pan, saute the red peppers and leeks. Remove from the slave and add the herbs. Fold the carrots, peppers, leeks and herbs into the mousseline. 1. Roll the brioch-dough out to approximately 1/8 inch (3 millimeters) thick
and refrigerate until well chilled. & line a buttered pate mold with the chilled brioche, reserving the excess for the tOp and garnish. 1 Fill the mold 1/4 full with the mousseline. Llyer the shiitakes over the mousseline, cover them with anOther layer of mousseline, followed by the dry broccoli. Repeat this process until the mold is filled, finishing with a !3yer of mousseline. 11 Fold the ends of the brioche over the filling and brush with the beaten egg )'olks. II. Make a lOp from the remaining brioche and place it over the mold; cut a rent and insen a foil funnel into the vent U. Beat the eggs with the water to make an egg wash. Brush the exposed brioche with the egg wash :ind bake at 425°F (2200C) until the internal tt'lllperature reaches 125 Q F (S2°C), approximately 35-40 minutes. U When cold, fi ll the pilte with madeira aspic, if needed. ~e
values per slice (224 g): CaloriC!l 4SO, Toul fat 20 g, Saturated fat 6 g. CholC!lle rol 185 mg. To tal earbohydru ltll 35 g, Protein 34 g. Vitamin A 45%. Vitamin C ISO%.
", SodIum 520
~ fibl:r
'""'"
815
8/6 "'"
CIW'l1iR 27
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 27.10
B ASIC GAME FORCEAfEAT Yield: 4 lb. 8 oz. (2 kg) Venison, cubed Veal, cubed Brandy Salt and pepper Dried thyme Pork fatback, cubed
Eggs Game stock, cold Fresh parsley, chopped Green peppercorns
I lb. 8 oz. 1 lb. 8 oz. 4 oz.
6i5 g
IT
IT
1 tsp. 1 lb. 3 1 pc 1 oz. 1/2 oz.
5ml 450 g 3 4S0ml 30 g IS g
675 g 120 mI
1. Combine the venison and veal with the brandy, salt, pepper and th)"ll:t marinate for several hours or overnight. 2. Grind the marinated meat and marinade ingredients in a chilled meal grindIr once through a large die and then once through a small die; refrigerate. 3. Grind the fatback once through the small die. 4. Emulsify the fat with the ground meats in the bowl of a cold food procc5sor. This can be done in several batches. Place the forcemeat in a Slam steel bowl over an ice bath. 5. Add the eggs, stock, parsley and green peppercorns to the forrtrllt'll it severnl batches; work them in by hand. 6. Additional garnishes may be added as desired. The forcemeat can be u.ft 10 make a variety of pates or terrines. Approximale values per l'"Oz. (36..g) serving: Calorlcs tOO, Total fal 7 g, Satur.lltti 121 3 g. lerol 40 mg, Sodium ItOmg, Total carboh)'dr:lIes I 8, Protein 7 8
a.
============ ~ ===========
RECIPE 27. 11
SAMfON AND SEA BASS TERRlNE WITH SPINACH AND BASIL Yield: 1 12 in. x 4 in. x 3 in. GO em X 10 em X 75 em) Terrine Salmon fillet, boneless, skinless Egg whites
Salt and white pepper Cayenne pepper Heavy cream Basil leaves Truffle, brunoise (optional) Spinach leaves, cleaned Sea bass fillet
1 lb. 8 oz. 3
700g 3
IT IT
IT IT
24 oz. 12 3/4 oz. 6 oz. 12 oz.
700 mI 12 22 g ISO g 350 g
1. Grind the salmon through the large die of a well-chilled meat grinder. 2. Place the salmon in the bowl of a food processor and process wd smooth.
CiiARCl/l'ERlE r"a. j. Add the egg whites, one at a time, pulsing the processor to incorporate.
Scrape down the bowl and season with salt, white pepper and cayenne pepper. I With the machine running, add the cream in a steady stream. Scrape down the bowl again and process the mousseline until it is smooth and well mixed. 1 Blanch the basil leaves and refresh. Chop them finely. , RemO\'e the mousseline from the bowl of the processor. Fold in the basil leaves and trumes and refrigerate. 1. Blanch and refresh the spinach leaves. a Spread the spinach leaves on a piece of plastic wrap, completely cover· ing a rectangle approximately the length and width of the terrine mold. 1 Cut the sea bass fillet into StripS approximately 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) wide and place end to end on the spinach leaves. Season with salt and white pepper. 14 Use the plastic wrap to wrap the spinach leaves tightly around the fish fill"" IJ. Buner a terrine and line it with plastic wrap. U. Half·~11 the lined terrine with the salmon mousseline. U Carefully unwrap the spinach and sea bass fillets and place them down the center of the terrine. Fill the terrine with the remaining mousseline. It Tap the terrine mold firmly to remove any air pockets, then fold the plas· tic wrap over the top. IS Col'er and bake the terrine in a water bath at JOOoF (Isoac) to an inter· naltemperature of 1400F (60°C), approximately 1 1/2 hours. " Cool the terrine well, unmold, slice or decorate and seiVe as desired. JRl=te I';ltues per 3,S.ol. <99-g) slice: Calo~ 2tO. T()w fal 16 g, Saturated fal 8 g. Cho>Ies· . . 7; mg, SodIum 18) mg. T()ta1 carOOhydrales I g, Protein 15 g, Vlwnin A 25%
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 27.12
LIVER TERRINE f ield: I 12 in. x 4 in. x 3 in. (30 an x 10 cm x 7.5 cm) Terrine
Pofk liver Fatback, diced Onion, diced Eggs S,1i
Green peppercorns Allspice, ground Ooves, ground Ginger, ground Cream sauce Brown veal stock Fatback. sliced
J ib. 4 oz. 12 oz. 60z. 2 1 Thsp. 1/2 !Sp. 1/2 ~p, 114 ~p, 114 ~p, 8 oz. 6 oz. as needed
600g 350 g ISO g 2 IS ml 2 ml 2 ml Iml Iml 2S0 ml ISO ml as needed CO~lfjt/ued
817
818
~
CHAPTER 27
1. Trim and dice the liver. 2. Grind the liver and diced fatback through a grinder with a fine die. J. Add the onion and pass the liver and fatback through the grinder again. 4. Beat together by hand the eggs, salt, green peppercorns, allspice, oo.-es and ginger. S. Combine the cream sauce and brown veal stock, add the egg mixture an:! mi.x well. 6: Add the ground liver mixture and beat until smooth. 7. Line a terrine with slices of fatb:lck. Fill the mold with the forcemeat an:! cover with the overhanging slices of fatback. S. Cover the terrine with ils lid or aluminum foil and bake in a water bath:ll 3500 F (18)°C) to an internal temperature of [50°F (66°C), approxinutelj'] 1/2 hours. 9. Cool, umnold, slice and serve as desired. Approxim;lIe \';llues per 4-oz. (l6().g) serving: Caklries 490, Toul fat 46 g, Saturattd bt l! ~ Cholesterol 265 mg, Sodium 800 mg, Total carbohydrates ; g. Protein 14 g. Viwn!n It. IDI Iro n 45%
======= ~, ======
RECIPE 27. 13
VEGETABLE TERRlNE Yield: 1 8 in. x 4 in. x 3 in. (20 em x 10 cm x 7.5 cm) Terrine Ca rrots, diced C.1uliflower florets Broccoli florets Cream cheese Eggs, separated Almonds, ground Salt and pepper Nutmeg, grated Lemon juice Fresh mint, chopped
I pI. ] qt. [ pt. 3 oz.
500 ml I II 500 m!
3
3
90g
2 Thsp.
30 ml
IT
IT
l/4 tsp. ] tsp. 1 Thsp.
Iml 5ml 15 ml
1. Cook each vegetable separately in a steamer until tender, but no! mus~·. 2. Puree each vegetable separately in a food processor with I ounce (.JI) grams) of cream cheese and 1 egg yolk.
3. Add the ground almonds to the carrot puree and season wilh salt an:! pepper. 4. Add the nutmeg and lemon juice 10 the cauliflower puree :md season we salt and pepper. 5. Add the mint to the broccoli puree and season with sail and pepper. 6. Whip the egg whites to stiff peaks. Fold 1/3 of lhe whipped whiles iIlo each of the vegetable purees. 7. Layer Ihe 3 purees in a lerrine mold. Place the terrinc in a water bath :nI ba ke al 32;oF (I60°C) until fi rm, approximately 45 minllles. Chill for Stt· vice. Approximate \';lInes per I·in. (2.5·on) slice: Calories I t4, Total fat 7 g, Saturated lilt 31- a. lestero t 9t mg, Sodium f5l mg, Total carbohydrates 8.5 g, Protein 6 g. Vitamin A PI ¥JI. min C m
C!!ARClflERIE ~ 819
I====== '~ ====== RECIPE 27. 14
ROASTED Yield: I
RED
PEPPER MOUSSE
112 pt. (700 ml)
Onion, small dice Garlic, chopped OIire oil Red bell pepper, roasted and peeled, small dice Salt and pepper Olicken stock Gr:mulated gelatin Dry white wine Heavy cream, whipped
3 oz.
90g
1 tsp. 1 oz.
5 ml 30ml
10 oz.
300g
IT
IT
8oz. 1 11)sp. 2 oz. 6 oz.
225 ml 15 ml 6Q ml 180 ml
L SaUle the onions and garlic in the olive oil until tender, approximately 2 minutes. 1 .\dd the bell pepper, salt, pepper and chicken stock. Bring 10 a boil, reduce 10 a simmer and cook for 5 minules. 1. Soften the gelatin in the while wine, then add it to the pepper mixture. Puree the pepper mixture in a blender or food processor and strain through a china cap. t Pbce the pepper puree over an ice bath. Stir until cool but do nOt allow the ge\3lin 10 set. Fold in the whipped cream. Pour the mousse into aspic-lined or well-oiled timbales or molds and refrigerate several hours or overnight. S Cnmold the mousse and serve as desired. tu:lAnoXS: Substitute yellow bell peppers for pan or all of the red bell P'il"". Broccoli Mousse: Substitute 8 ounces (225 grams) of blanched, chopped lIoccoIi for the red bell peppers. ~!C Il3 IUt"S per t-oz. (55-g) serving' CaloriC!!! 60, Total fal 6 g. SalUr;lIed fat 2.5 g, Cho les· IfII IS mg, Sodiu m 200 mg, TOlal ca rbo hydrales 2 g, I'rolein I g. Vitamin C 25%
I ====== ~ ====== RECIPE 27.15
SALMON MOUSSE r.~,
I lb. 8 oz. (650 g)
5:1lmon, boneless, skinless FISh I'eloute, warm Heavy cream Gr.lnulated gelatin White wine Salt and white pepper Ca)"t'fme pepper
12 oz.
8 oz. I 1/21bsp. 4 oz.
350 g 250 ml 250 ml 23 ml 120 ml
IT IT
IT IT
a oz.
1 Steam the salmon and transfer it to the food processor while still warm. Add the warm veloute in a steady stream while the machine is running. Conlillued
820 "'"
CIW'TER 27
2. Whip the cream to sofl peaks and reserve. 3. Add me gelatin to the wine and allow it to rest for 5 minutes. Heal dr gelatin mixrure 10 a simmer. 4. Transfer the salmon and velollte to a mixing bowl and stir in the geIa mixture. Season with sail, pepper and cayenne.
5. When the mixture has cooled to ncar room temperature, use a rubberspaula to fold in the whipped cream umil juSt mixed.
6. The mousse is now ready to be fonned into timbales, or molded into VIjous shapes as desired. Approximate v:alues pet' !-oz. (39.g) serving: CaJo ries 100, To w fal 6 g, Salur.lled fal 3 g. [ero l 25 mg, Sodium 480 OIg, Total carboh)'dnues 6 g, ProIC:in 5 g. Vitamin A 4%
a.
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 27.16
GAIANTINE OF TURBOT AND LOBSTER RIVIERA, An~~'TA, GA
CbefJnck Schoop, CAlC
Yield: 1 Gaiantine, So lO 4-oz. (J 20-g) Servings Onion, diced Whole butter
2lbsp. I lbsp.
Lobster meal White bread, crust removed
4 oz. 2 slices
30 15 "" ml 120 g 2 slices 1
Egg white
I
Heavy cream Sea salt White pepper Nutmeg Fresh dill, chopped Turbot fillets , skinned, 6 oz. (1SO g) each Spiny lobster tails, blanched, meat removed and cut into long strips
902.
270ml
IT IT IT
IT IT IT
I tsp.
5 ml
4
4
2
2
1. Saute the onion in the butler without browning, then allow it to cool. 2. Dice the lobster meat and place in a stainless bowl over ice. Add dr cooled onion, slices of white bread, egg white and 1 ounce (30 millilitersl of the cream. Season with salt, white pepper and nutmeg and combitr the ingredients well. 3. Grind the mixrure very fine in a food processor, then sieve throogb I su-ainer if necessary. 4. In a Slainless bowl over an ice bath, beat in the remaining hea\')' am and stir in the dill. 5. Flatten the turbot fillets with a me n mallet. Season the fillets with salt:m:l pepper. ti Place the fillets touching side by side, skin side up, on a large pia'e d hC'dvy plashc wrap. 7. Spread the forcemeat on the fillets and lay the lobster Strips down dr center of the assembly.
CHARClfl'ERJE
& Use the plastic wrap to help roll the galantine, then tie the ends of the \\T3P
with twine.
l Poach the galantine in fish bfO(h or salted water for about 30 minutes.
I_
Cool overnight in the poaching liquid. To serve, slice and plate with salad greens, diced tomatoes and a balsamic vinaigrette .
...._"
..., mo.
~I,~
per 4-<1l. ( I ts-g) serving: Calories 16}, TotaJ fat 9 g, Saruraled (al 5 g, Cholcs-
"'",m 215 mg, Total carbo hydr.ues 4 So Prolcin 17 g
I ====== ~ ====== RECIPE 27.17
CHOPPED CHICKEN LIVER Yield: 20 oz. (600 g)
Olicken livers, trimmed Olicken fat or butter Kosher salt Eggs, hard-cooked Onion, small dice S3It and pepper
I lb. 2 oz. IT
2
450 g 60g IT
6 oz.
2 170g
IT
IT
1 Saute the livers in the chicken fa t or buner until lightly browned with a slightly pink interior. Season with kosher salt. 1 0I0p the livers with a chef's knife, blending in the eggs and onions. Sea500 to taste with sal! and pepper. l The final prOOua should be slightly coarse and peppery. Blend in addi00na1 chicken fat or butler if necessary to make the mixture hold together. , Pack into a serving bowl, cover well and chill for 24 hours. Serve with crackCiS, toast or matzos and sl iced radishes. I~te w.lues per
1-<17.. (38-g) serving: Calories 60, Tola.! fal 4 g, Sarut:aled fal l g, COOles· 240 mg, Tow carbohydrales 1 g, Proleln 4 So Vitamin A 70%
======= ~ ======= RECIPE 27. 18
RABBIT PATA EN
CROm
YJdd: 1 3 in. x 3.5 in. x 16 in. (7.5 cm x 8.7 cm x 4Ocm) Pale
Rabbit meat, boneless, large dice Pork bun, large dice Marinade: Pate spice Orange zest Lime zest Brandy Fresh thyme Juniper berries Salt and pepper fatback, large dice
2 lb. l ib.
I kg 450 g
1 Thsp.
15 ml
2lbsp. Ilbsp.
30m! 15 ml 120 ml 1 bunch
4 oz. 1 bunch 6
6
IT lib.
IT 450 g Continued
("\!\.
821
822 roa.
CHAPlfR 27
Eggs
4
4
Pistachios, chopped coarse Ham, diced Black olives, chopped coarse Rabbit loins, browned lightly in oil Rabbit livers, browned lightly in oil Pate dough
8 oz. 6 oz. 2 oz.
250 g l80g 60 g
4 6
4 6
lib. 8 oz.
700 g
1. Combine the rabbit meat and pork butt with the marin:lde ingredienl:i:m:l
marinate several hours or overnight. 2. Freeze the fatba ck.
3. Remove the thyme and juniper berries from the marinated meat mi'\lUlt and grind the meat and the remaining marinade ingredients in a weichilled grinder once through the large die, then through the medium di Hold the mixture in an ice bath. 4. Grind the fatback through the medium die and add to the me-Jt mixture 5. place the melLl mixture and fat in a chilled food processor and process urd emulsified. ti Over an ice bath, incorporate the eggs into the forcemeat. 7. Fold the pistachios, ham and olives into the forcemeat. 8. Foltaw the procedure for preparing a pate en croute llsing the rabbiloo and livers as garnishes running the length of the p:1te. Approxim:lte v:l.IUOI per s.m. 05Q.g} slice: Ca10ries 520, Total fat 39 g. SalUr:um fat ]2 g. ~ teml 155 mg, Sod iu m 230 mg, Total carboh)·dn.te5 t4 g, Protein 29 g, Vitamin A ~ In. ,,.
======= ~
--...
4--
RECIPE 27.19
TEX-MEX TURKEY SAUSAGE
Yield, 4 lb. (!.8 kg)
Canola oil Onion, chopped fine Garlic, minced Jalapeno, chopped Turkey breast meat, trimmed of fat Veal, lean White wine vinegar Water Fresh cilantro, chopped White pepper Chilli powder Cumin, ground Salt
4 Thsp. 12 oz. 1 Tbsp. I Thsp. 2 lb. B oz. 2 oz. B oz. 4 oz. I tsp. I tsp. 1/2 ISp. I ISp.
60 ml
340 g 15 ml
15 ml I kg
250 g 60ml 250 Illi 120 g
Sml Sml 2ml Sml
1. Heat the oil and sallte the onion, garlic and jalapeno umil the onions 2ft translucent; remove and chill well. 2. Grind the turkey and veal in a cold meat grinder, once through the larJ die and then through the medium die. Working over an ice bath, combir the mealS, vinegar, water and seasonings. Add the sauteed vegetables. 3. Blend well, then cook a small ponion to test the flavor and texture. AdpI the seasonings.
CI/IJlCUfERIE
:)ruff into casings or portion into 2-ounce (60-gram) patties and broil. Serve ,ith papaya salsa, ""'_"',~
per 2-oz. (61-g) serving: Caloric:!l 80. Tow fal 25 g. Saturated fat 0 g. Cholesmg, Sodium 115 ms. Tow carboh)'drates .i g. Protein ]2 g, Vitamin A 8%, Vitamin C 8%, '''''~-low f31: low sodium
.. ,,,
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 27.20
S PICY I TALIAN SAUSAGE ,.~ :
i lb. (2.2 kg)
Pork bUll Salt Black pepper feMe! seeds Paprika Red pepper, crushed Coriander, ground Cold water
51h. ] ]/2lbsp. 1 1/2 tsp ] 1/2 tsp. I lbsp. I ]/2 tsp. 3/4 tsp. 5 oz.
2.2 kg 23 ml 7 ml 7 ml ]5 ml 7ml 4 ml 150 ml
Cut the meal into 2-inch (S-centimeter) cubes.
Combine the pork with the remaining ingredients except the water. Grind me meat once through the coarse die of a well-chilled grinder. • .-\M the cold water and mix well.
..._ . 0 ''''' "" +Oz. (122.g) serving: Calories 220, Total f31 9 g. Saturated f31 ~. Sodium 260 mg. Tow carboh)'drales 0 So Prote in 36 g
3 g.
Choles-
""P>
RECIPE 27.21
,.IU:7 lb. 8 oz. (3.4 kg) Pork, lean Fatback Red pepper nakes Garlic, chopped Currtin Cayenne pepper Sah Paprika Ked wine vinegar
CR ORlZO 51b. 2 lb. 8 oz. 1 tsp. 1 oz. 31bsp. 21bsp. 4 tSp. S lbsp. 3 oz.
2.2 kg 1.1 kg 5 ml
109 45 ml 30ml 20 ml 75 ml
90 mI
I. Cut the pork and fatback in I-inch (2.S-centimeter) pieces. Grind the pork
ooce using a medium die. Grind half of the pork a second time together v.ith me fatback through a fi ne die. Combine all the ingredients in the bowl of a mixer using the paddle atIaChment. The sausage may be used in bulk or formed into links as desired. t per i.<Jz. (30-g) serving: Calones ]20. Total fal 10 g, Saturated fat 4 g. Chole5· mg. Sodium 90 mg. Total carbohydrales 0 g. Prote in 5 8
~
823
824 '"""
CIW'l'ER 21
======= ~. ====== RECIPE 27.22
GR4VlAX Yield: Approximately 5 lb. (2.2 kg) I
Salmon, drawn, 10-12 lb. Kosher salt
8 oz.
240 g 109
oz.
White peppercorns, cracked
I
Fresh dill, chopped
2 bunches
Sugar
80l.
2 bunches 250 g
1. Fillet the salmon, removing the pin bones but leaving the skin anached. 2. To make the salt cure, combine the salt , white peppercorns, dill and sup: 3. Coat the salmon fillets with the salt cure and wrap each fillet sepat31e1j' l plastic wrap. 4. Place the fillets in a hotel pan and place another hotel pan on lOp. Pbct two #10 cans in the tOp ho tel pan to weigh it down and press the fish.
5. Refrigerate the salmon for 2-3 da)lS.
6. Unwrap the gravlax, scrape off the salt cure and slice the gravlax ref}'!hi. Approxiln
=========== ~ =========== RECIPE 27.23
SIIIOKED SALMON WIW SEARED T UNA cm:F CIiRiSTOPIiER GROSS,
P1tOF.:iIX,
AZ
Yield: 4 SCIVings
..
Smoked salmon Fresh tuna, cut into 4-al. (120-g) squares Salt and white pepper Whole buncr, melted
Fresh parsley, chopped fine Fresh thyme, chopped fine Fresh chervil, chopped fine
Fresh tarragon, chopped fine Fresh basH leaves, chopped fine Saffron Creme fraiche
Fresh dill
Fresh spinach Caviar (Oselra)
Baby lettuces, assolled
Olive oil Brioche
8 oz.
225 g
2
2
rr
IT
as ne(.>ded 1 bunch 1 bunch 1 bunch 1 bunch 5
as needed
pinch
1 pt. 1 sprig 8 oz. 1 oz. 4 heads 2 1bsp. 4 slices
1 bunch
1 bunch 1 bunch 1 bunch
5 pinch 450ml 1 sprig 225 g 109 4 heads 30 ml
4 slices
I . Thinly slice the salmon and arrange il in a single-layer circle on far plates. Leave a I-inch ( 2.5-ccntimclcr) border around the edge of
m
piale.
. ClIARClfl'ERIE
Season the lUna with salt and pepper and coat with a small amount of burrer. Roll the tuna in the chopped herbs. Sear the tuna in a hot saute pan , keeping it rare. Refrigerate until ready kl serve. t To make the yellow sauce, add a pinch of saffron to 6 ounces (ISO grams) c{ the creme fraiche and simmer until the creme tums yellow, approximately IO minutes. Strain the sauce, season with sail and white pepper md refrigerate. i To make the green sauce, add the dill to another 6 ounces (ISO grants) of creme fraiche and simmer for 10 minutes. Place the spinach in a blender. Add the dilled creme fraiche and blend for several seconds. Strain, season with salt and white pepper and cool quickly to preserve the color. , Whip the remaining creme fraiche until stiff. ! Cut the TWO squares of tuna in half diagonally, creating four triangles. Place a triangle of tuna in the center of each plate of salmon. & Form a small quenelle of whipped creme fritche and place it at the edge ci the salmon. Spoon some caviar ontO the creme fraiche. , Toss the baby greens with the olive oil and place a small mound next to the tuna. Garnish the border of each plate with small dOts of the yellow and green sauces. 11 Cut the slices of brioche into mushroom shapes and toast. Place one slice against each piece of tuna. ~ "ilues per ser\'ing' Calorle$ 1060. Total ral 72 g. Saturated rat 34 g. Cho lesterol 325 50aam 1810 mg. Total arbo hydratC:5 55 g. Protein 47 g, Vitamin A 371m, Vitamin C 330%.
- ""
I============ ~ ============= REClPE 27. 24
D UCK PROSCUTTJO WITH FRESH MANGO MANGO Re,iAURANT, CIitCAGO, IL
Che/Steven Chiappetti
Yield: 2 Servings .\!lISCO\'}' duck
breasts
2
2 250 ml 120 ml
Kosher salt
1 c.
~gar
Olin~oil
1/2 c. 2 Thsp. 1/4 c. 1/ 4 c.
fresh mango Miche lettuce
1
1
2 bunches
2 bunches
lloIasses Ked wine vinegar
30ml 60ml 60 ml
L Rinse the duck breasts under cold water and trim off the excess fat. Place me duck breasts on a sheet pan and refrigerate until ready to use. l In a medium·sized bowl, combine the salt, 1/4 cup (60 milliliters) of sugar and the molasses. Rub this mixture on the duck breasts. Cover and refrigerate the duck for 48 hours. COll/ill llcd
~
825
826 ( .
CfIAPl'ER 27
J. Rinse the duck well under cold water and refrigerate another 48 hours tr4.
5.
6. 7.
8.
fore serving. To make the dressing, ooilthe remaining sugar and red wine \1neg
Approximate values per serving: Calories 550, Total ra t 30 g. Saru(ated rat 4. 5 g. CholcsImI llS mg. Sodium 3610 mg. Totat carbo h)"dnotes 41 g. Protd n 30 g. Vitamin A ~ \1WDin C!
Iron 4<M
\ \
PnpCIwf,
\'\
)
/\
=== ~ ==
After Studying this chapler, you will be able to: ~
prepare and serve a varicty of cold and hO{ hars d'oeuvre, in-
cluding canapes ~ choose hors d'oeuvre, including canapes, that lire appropriate for the meal or event
•
ors d'oeuvre, whether hoI or cold, are vel)' smal ponions of foods senJed before the meal 10 whet the appetile, Hers d'oeuvre can be passed elegantly by waiters or displayed ollimffru Appetizers, or starters, whether bot or cold, are general(l' the ft~ course or introduction to a meal; they are more l)pica/~)I sen'ed ,nib dinner than with IUl1ch. Sometimes there is ve,y little differel1celRtween an hors d'oeuvre and em appetizer. Preparing hors d'oeuvre, including ca napes, llses skills from almost eve,y work station. Because they a lii consist of meat, POIliJry. fish, shel(fish, vegetables, potatoes, grains, pasta, fmits, baked goods alld sauces, they requ ire a detailed knowledge of these foods alld ixM theyare,prepared.
The French term hors d 'oeu/Jre tl"3nslates as ~olltside the work." [ts usage \\li correct under thc classic kitchen brigade system, for it was the service .su/fj responsibility to prepare small tidbits for guests to enjo)' while the kitchen IR" pared the meal. Today, however, the kitchen staff prepares the hors d'oet!I1f as well as the meals. Cold hors d'oeuvre (the finals is used as an Amerianized pural) are usually prepared by the garde-manger; hot ones are prepattd in the main kitchen. There are really only two limitations on the type of food and manner rJ preparation that can be used for hors d'oeuvre: the chers imagination and tIr fcxxls at his or her disposal. There are, however, a few guidelines .
GUIDEUNES FOR PREPARING HORS D' OEUVRE
~ == UN ARrISTE DE L'HORS D'OEUVRE
,",'ell may it be said that a good hoI'S d'oeune artist is a man to be prized in any kitcnen, for, although his dUlies do not by any means rank first in Importance, they """""less demand of the chef the I"""sion of such qualitie; as are rarely found united in one pe!SOI1, reliable and experi· enced taste, originality, keen artistic sense, and professional knO'Nledge. AuGUSTE EscomER, LE CUlm; CIJIJNNRB
1. 2. 3. 4,
They should They should They should They should their flavors.
be small, one to two bites. be flavorful and well seasoned without being overpowering. be visually attractive. complement whatever foods may follow without duplicating
Cold Hors d'Oeuvre Cold hors d'oeuvre are divided here imo five broad categories based \I~ preparation method, principal ingrediem or presentation style. They arr canapes, caviars, crudites, dips and sushi. These categories may vary soorwhat from classical teachings, but they are completely appropriate for modem menus and food service opel"3tions.
Canapes Canapes are tiny, open-faced sandwiches. TIley are constructed from a base,3 spread and one or more garnishes. The most common canape base is a thin slice of bread cut into an inter· esting shape and toasted. Although most any variety of bread can be used. spiced, herbed or otherwise fl avored breads may be inappropriate for sorrt
1I0RS D'OEI./VHEAND CANAPEs
28.1 "'" A SELECTION
OF CANAPE SPREADS AND SUGGESTED
Suggested Garnishes
"'~:~:"
110
buner
Hard-rooked eggs, capers, green or black olive slices Grape half, walnuts, roast beef roulade, pear slice, currams, watercress Caviar, lemon, egg slice, chives Cornichons, mustard butter, sliced radish Smoked salmon, rQa5t beef, smoked troUl, marinated herring, capers, parsley Shrimp, cr:tb, caviar, salmon, chives, parsley, black olive slices Truffle slice, cornichon Smoked me3L~, pilte, dry salami coronet, cornichon Smoked oyster, sardine, pimento, parsley Poached lJay ,scallops, shrimp, caviar, parsley Capers, corniqlOns, sliced radish
~d:. or
g3rnishes, Melba toaslS, crackers and slices of finn vegetables such or zucchini are also popular canape bases, Whatever item is I!rd. the base must be strong enough to .<;upport the weight of the spread and pnish without falling apart when h:mdled, Tht- canape s pread provides much of the canape's flavor, Spreads are usu.' !Ia\'Ored butters, cream cheese or a combination of the two. Several exof spreads are listed in Table 28.1. Each of the spreads is made by the desired amoum of the main ingredient (chopped or pureed as apand seasonings to softened butter or cream cheese and mixing until .IOl1lMOJ. Quantities and proportions vary according to individual tastes. Ckher canape spreads include bound salads (fo r example, tuna or egg), finely a"pped shrimp or liver mousse. Any of a number of ingredients can be comIiroI for spre-Jds, provided the following guidelines are followed. 1\ rurumbers
Il.1DElLW.I FOR PREPARlNG CANAPE SPREADS
L The spread's texture should be smooth enough to produce attractive designs if piped through a pastry bag fitted with a decorative tip.
1 The spread·s consistency should be finn enough to hold its shape when piped onto the base, yet soft enough to stick to the base and hold the garnishes in place.
1 The spread's flavor should complement the garnishes and be flavorful enough to stimulate the appetite wilhout being overpowering. A~d
rna}' be a substantial portion of the canape as well as its distinguishOr it can be applied sparingly and used more as a means of Jlling the garnish to lhe base lhan as a principal ingredient. Canapes with bread bases tend to become soggy quickly from both the D:listure in the spread and the moisture in the refrigerator where they are Ded Using a spread m:lde with butter will help keep the bread bases cnspier, as will buttering the base with a thin coat of softened plain butter bekre piping on the spread. 111e best way to ensure a criSp base is to make the cwpes as close to service time as possible. ~characteristic.
~,
831
832 ,.....
CIIAPl7iR 28
The variety of canape garnishes is \'3St. The garnish can dominate or cc&
plement the spread, or it can be a simple sprig of parsley intended to PrOlU visual appeal but lillie flavor. Although several ingredients can be used tOP nish the same canape, remember the limitations imposed by the canape'ssil and purpose. Traditional garnishes can be made by sh.1ping thinly ~ smoked salmon into rosettes, or thin slices of salami into comets, imo \loti] additional spread can be piped . The natural shape of a boiled, peeled shrdp also makes an anraclive canape garnish.
Sillmon Roselle Gmlapes PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING CANAPI's 111is procedure can be adapted and used with a variety of ingredients to 110' duce a variety of canapes. If the canape base is a bread crouton, begin '. step 1. If some other product is used as the base, prepare that base and bepI with step 4.
1. Trim me cruSt from an unsliced loaf o f bread. Slice the bread lengthwise approximate ly 1/ 3 inch (8 millimeters) thick. 2. CUI the bread slices into the desired shapes using a serrated bread knife cr canape £une r. See Figure 28.1. Saulm i COrllel Cal/t/pes
j. Brush the bread shapes with melted butler and bake in a 350°F (lSOOC)
oven until they are toasted and dry. Remove and cool. Or the entire bmd slice can be buuered and toasted, then cut into shapes. 4. If desired, spread each base with a thin layer of softened plain buner. 5. Apply me spread to the base. If a thin layer is desired, use a palette knife If a thicker or more decorative layer is desired, pipe the spread onto the base using a pastry bag and decorative tip. Or the entire bread slice can Ir b uttered, toasted, cooled, covered with a spread and then cut into the desired shapes. 6. Gamish the canape as desired. 7. If desired, glaze each canape with a thin cooting of aspic jelly. The aspic jelly can be applied with a small spoon o r a spray bottle designated for !hi purpose. Sbrimp and Caviar CmUlpes
, ,
' , ' ,-
"
,
, "" ,
"
,
"
--.,, - .,-,
, ,, ,
..
-- .,-- ,-, ,, ,
, ,,
,, ,,
_ _ J __ .J _ _
FIGURE 28.1
all()id wasle.
----,.--,,, ----,.-- -
---- ,. ---
,, --- -'"--,, , ----1..--,, ,
----1..--,
Bread can be sliced into several basic shapes to
HOns D'OEUVRE AND CANAPts
l Sltcing bre'Jd into the desired
shapes.
t. Cooting the entire slice of toasted
833
2. Applying the spread (0 the base with a palette knife.
3. Piping the spread onto the base.
5. Garnishing the canapes.
6. Spraying the finis hed canapes
lxead with a spread before cutting iI intO canapes.
with aspic.
Bmquettes, Tartlels and Projileroles Barqueues, tartlets and profitcroles are all adaptations of the basic canape. is a tiny boat-shaped shell made from a savol)' dough such as jUle me. A tattlet is simply a round version of a barquette. A profiterole ! asmall puff made from pate it chaux. These three items can be prepared ieranapes by filling them with flavored spreads and garnishing as desired. ~ barqueue
l Rolling out the pastl)' dough.
("\!\..
2. Pressing the dough into the barquene shells.
834
~
C/WrBR 28
3. Pricking the dough with a fork to allow steam to escape during baking.
4. Placing a second barqueue shell on top of the dough to prel'ent i from rising as it bakes.
Other Types ofCanapes Vegetables such as cherry tomatoes, blanched snow peas, mushroom ap! and Belgian endive leaves are sometimes used as canape bases. They are filled and garnished in the same manner as barqueues, tartlets and profiteroles.
Coviar Caviar, considered by many to be the ultimate hors d'oeuvre, is the salted Itt (eggs) of the sturgeon fish. In the United States, only slUrgeon roe can ~ labeled simply ca'viar." Roe from O!her fish muSt be qualified as such on ~ label (for example, salmon caviar or lumpfish caviar). Most of the world's caviar comes from sturgeon hatvested in the Caspim Sea and imported from Russia and Iran. Imported sturgeon caviar, classifieda<· cording to the sturgeon species and the roe's size and color, includes beluga. osetra and sevruga as well as pressed caviar. Beluga is the most experlSi\t caviar, and comes from the largest species (the sturgeon can weigh up to 1-,0 pounds/800 kilograms); the dark gray and well-separated eggs are the 13tge!1 and most fragile kind. Osetra is considered by some connoisseurs to ~ the best caviar; the eggs are medium-sized, golden yellow to brown and quile oiIj. Sevruga is halVested from small sturgeon; the eggs are quite small and ligII to dark gray. Pressed caviar is a processed caviar made from osetra wl sevruga roes. The eggs are cleaned, packed in linen bags and hung to drain: as salt and moisture drain away, the natural shape of the eggs is destroyed wl the eggs are pressed together. Approximately 3 pounds 0.3 kilograms) of III produce only 1 pound (450 grams) of pressed caviar; pressed caviar Iw a spreadable, jamlike conSistency. Most of the caviar consumed in this country. however, comes from. domestic sturgeon or other fish and is labeled American sturgeon carm golden whitefish caviar, lumpfish caviar or salmon caviar. American sturpl caviar is nO! considered 10 be of the same quality as Russian or lranim caviars; nevertheless, roe from sturgeon harvested in the coastal waters or ~ American northwest and the Tennessee River is becoming increasingly ~ lar, due in part 10 its relatively low price. Golden whitefish caviar is a smal and very crisp roe; it is a natural golden color and comes from whitefish Illtive to the northern Great Lakes. Lumpfish caviar is readily available and reasonably priced; it is produced from lumpfish harvested in the North Allam:. TIle small and very crisp eggs are dyed black, red or gold; the food coloriJl is not stable, however, and when lLsed to garnish foods, colored lumpfish 8
Sevnlga Caviar
Ose/m Caviar
1I0RS D'Oflft'Rf AND o.NAPts
milr lends 10 bleed. SaJmon caviar, Ihe eggs of the chum and silver salmon, 53 leI)' popular garnish. The eggs arc large with a good flavor and natural mnge color.
Purchasing and Storing CtlViars ,\lthough all caviar is processed with sail, some C'"Jvbr is labeled malassol, means -lillie saJI. ~ C.'lViar should smell fresh , with no off odors, The ~ should be whole, nOl broken, and they should be crisp and pop when ~ with the tongue. Excessive oiliness may be caused by a large number dhroken eggs. The best way 10 lest cavia r's quality is to taste it. Remember. p-kl' alone does not necessarily indicate quality. \\ost caviar can be purchased fresh or pasteurized in [ins or jars ranging boo! I ounce (28 grams) to more than 4 pollnds (2 kilograms). Some cavial'S lie 3150 available frozen. (Frozen caviar should be used only as a garnish and dJould nOt be served by itself.) In order to ensure the freshest possible prodIl1., always purchase caviar in sm:ltt quantities ils often as possible based on II)Jl' needs. fresh caviar should be stored at 32"F (ODe). Because most refrigerators are ct'Ibidernbly warmer than that, store the caviar on ice in the coldest pan of the tfriger.ltor and change the ice often. If properly handled, fresh caviar willlas[ Il't 10 twO weeks before opening and several days after opening. Pasteurized arilrdoes nOt require refrigeration until it is opened and witt last several days rI the rI.'frigerator after opening. Q:h
AmericflIl Stll11lQI/ Roe
Sem'l1g Gaviars rille' caviar should be served in its original container or a nonmetal bowl on J red of crushed ice, accompanied only by lightly buttered toasts or blinis and !OOI' cream. Connoisseurs prefer china, bone or other nonmetal utensils for jelling caviar because metal reacts with the caviar. producing off flavors. Itsser-quality caviars are often served on ice, accompanied by minced • chopped hard-cooked egg whites and yolks (separately), lemon, sour <mm 3nd buuered toasts. Lurnpfish and other nonsturgeon caviars are usually not served by them· !d\ts. Rather, Ihey are used as ingredients in or garnishes for other dishes.
lilllJilts Cnxlile,3 French word meaning "raw thing," generally refers to raw or slightly bbndied vegetables served as an hors d'oeuvre. Allhough almost any veg~ will do, the most commonly used are broccoli, cauliflower, carrotS, celt!y. asparagus and green beans, all of which arc often blanched, and cucumi'm. zucchini, yellow squash, radishes, green onions, cherry tomatoes, Belgian rrx!i1'C leaves, mushrooms, peppers and jicama, which are served raw. ~en preparing cruditeS, use only {he freshest and best-looking produce IIlilable. Because they are displayed and eaten raw, blemishes and imperfec!ills cannOt be disguised. Vegetables, both blanched and raw, should be cut dO 3Rractil'e shapes. Crudites are usually served wilh one or more dips.
Dips Dips can be served hot or cold and as an accompaniment \0 cmdiles, cracktf\ chips, toosts, breads or other foods.
Cold dips often use mayonnaise, sour cream or cream cheese as a base. The mnhods for preparing mayonnaise-based and sour cream-based dips are idenIioIIO those for making mayonnaise-based salad dressings discussed in Chap-
Artful Array o/Crudites and Dip.
835
836 . -
CIIAP11iR 28
art.
ler 24, Salads and Salad Dressings. The principal difference is that dips mally thicker than dressings. To use cream cheese as a base, first soften it by mixing it in an mixer with a paddle attachment. Then add the flavoring ingredients SId chopped cooked vegetables, chopped cooked fish or shellfish, herbs, SJll garlic or onions. Adjust the consistency of the dip by adding milk, bun_ cream, sour cream or other appropriate liquid. Some cold dips such as guacamole and hummus use purees of fruilS, ~ ctables or beans as the base. Hot dips often use a bechamel, cream sallce or cheese sauce as a usually contain a dominant flavoring ingredient such as chopped spinach shellfish. Dips can be served in small bowls or hollowed-out cabbages, squat pumpkins or Other vegetables. HOI dips are often served in chafing dishes The combinations of ingredientS and seasonings that can be used to m* dips as well as the foods that are dipped in them are limited only by the cheh imagination.
base.
~
RECIPE 28. 1
ClAM DIP Yield: 3 pI. (I.5 It)
Cream cheese Worcestershire sauce Dijon mustard Suur <.Team Canned clams, drained Lemon juice Sail and pepper Tabasco sauce Green onions, sliced
1 lb. 1 oz.
450 g 30 ml 15 ml 450 g 450 g 30ml
1T 1T
1T 1T
2 oz.
60g
1 lb. 1 oz. llbsp. 1 lb.
1. Soften the cream cheese in the bowl of an electric mixer, using the paalr attachment. 2. Add the Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard and sour cream; mix UIIl sm()(){h. 3. Add the clams and lemon juice and season with sa lt, pepper and Taba5co. 4. Add the green onions and mix well. Approxim.ue values per l-oz. (}1.g) serving: Calories 70. Total fal 5 g. SalUrated fal }; g. CldIt terol 20 mg, Sodium 55 mg, Total carbo hydrates 1 g. Prolein 4 g. lron 15%, CIalms--lowIOlia low sugar
Sushi Generally, sushi refers to cooked or raw fish and shellfish rolled in or sero't1l on seasoned rice. Sashimi is raw fish eaten without rice. In Japan, the \\'tId srtshi (or zushJ) refers only to the flavored rice. Each combination of rice ml another ingredient or ingredients has a specific name. These include nigi" zlIShi (rice with raw fish), norlmaki zilshi (rice rolled in seaweed), Jukus4 Zltsbi (rice wrapped in omelet), illari zushi (rice in fried bean curd) and em. rasbi zllshi (rice with fish, shellfish and vegetables). Although a Japanese susIli
IIORS D'OEUVRE AND C1NAPEs r"a.
spends years perfecting style and technique, many types of sushi can in any professional kilchen with very linle specialized equipment.
~ f.oo"ced
Ingredients Fisb-The key 10 good sushi and sashimi is the freshness of the fish. All fish
u be of me highest quality and absolutely fresh , preferably no more than me day OUI of the water. Ahi and yellowfin tuna, salmon, flounder and sea bass are typically used for sushi. Cooked shrimp and eel are also popular.
Rice-Sushi rice is prepared by adding seasonings such as vinegar, sugar, • and rice wine (sake or mirin) 10 steamed short-grain rice. The consistency uthe rice is very important. It must be sticky enough to stay together when bmed into finger-shaped oblongs, but not too soft. Seasonings--These include: • Shoyu-japanese soy sauce! which is lighter and more delicate than the Chinese variety. • \rasabi-A strong aromatic rool, purchased as a green powder. It is sometimes called green horseradish although it is nOt actually related to the common horseradish. • Pickled ginger-fresh ginger pickled in vinegar, which gives it a pink color. • NOli-A dried seaweed purchased in sheets; il adds flavor and is sometimes used to contain the rolled rice and other ingredients.
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 28.2
Z USHI (SUSHI •
r.,d, 2 lb. (J kg)
RICE) lib.
Short-grain rice Water Rice vinegar Granulated sugar S3i1 Mirin
20 oz. 2 oz. 3 Thsp. 2 1/2 tsp. 1 oz.
450g 600ml 60 ml 45 ml 12 ml 30ml
I, Wash the rice and allow it to dr'Jin for 30 minutes. 1 Combine the rice and water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover and steam for 20 minutes.
J. Combine the rice vinegar, sugar, salt and mirin and add to the rice.
Mix
weD and cool to room temperature. IpJw1amtc ''1Irues per i-(lz. (JO-g) serving: Calorics 60. Tolal. fat 0 g, Saturau:d (at 0 g, Cholcs... 0 mg. SodIum 140 mg, To lal carbohydratcs 13 g, Protein I g, ClaimS-fal free
========== ""If!?'. ============
•
,&
RECIPE 28.3
N IGIRI Z USHI
Yield: 24 Pieces
Sushi-quality fish fillets such as ahi, salmon, flounder or sea bass 'h:lbi powder
lib. I oz.
450g 30 g ContinI/cd
837
838 ,"""
CHAPl'hW 28
Water
loz,
Sushi rice Pickled ginger, sliced Shoyu
2 lb.
30 ml 900g
2oz,
608 90 Illi
30z,
1. Trim the fish fillets of any skin, bone, imperfections or blemishes. CU:
fillets in{o 24 thin slices, approximately 2 inches long by 1 inch 11'0:' centimeters by 2.5 centimeters). 2, Mix the w3sabi powder and water 10 form a paste.
3. With
your hands, form a I l/2.-ounce C5O-gram) ponion of rice inlOa ger-shaped mound.
4. Rub a small amount of wasabi on one side of
:I
slice of fish.
5. Holding the rice mound in one hand, press the fish , wasabi side 00i onl0 the rice with Ihe fingers of lhe other hand. 6. Serve with additional wasabi, pickled ginger and shoyu. Approximate values per piece: Calorie!! SO, Total Cal 2 g. Saturaled fal 0 g. Choletnd" SOdium 310 mg, TOlal carbohyd ralcs II g, ProIc ln 5 g, Clalm$-Iow ral: low , hoIe:sIetd; g)
~ ,
;;ijoII'
..
"
. ,.. . . .
2. Pressing the fish onto the rice.
1. Fanning a finger-shaped rice mound.
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 28.4
NORlMAKJ Z USHI Yield: 36 Pieces
Dried shiitake mushrooms Water, warm Shoyu Brown sugar Cucumber Sushi-quality fish fillets such as ahi, salmon, flounder or sea bass Nori Sushi rice Pickled ginger Wasabi paste
4 8 oz. 4 oz.
4 250 ml
llbsp.
I; ml
1/2
1/2
5 oz. 3 sheets 18 oz. 202. 202.
120 mI
1;0 g 3 sheets
;oog 60g 60g
1. Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20 minutes. Remove the mushtoon! and reserve 4 ounces (120 grams) of the liquid. Trim ofT the mushro:c stems.
1I0RS D'OEUVRE AND fAJVAPIs
~~
1 Julienne the mushroom caps. Combine tile rescrvcd soaking liquid with
2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) of the shoyu and the brown sugar. Simmer the caps in this liquid and reduce au sec. Remove from the heat and refrigerJte. 1 Peel and seed the cucumber; cut it into strips the size of pencils, approximately 6 inches (15 centimeters) long. t Trim the fish fillets of any skin, bone, imperfections or blemishes. Cut the fillets into Strips the same size as the cucumbers. I CuI the sheets of nori in half and place one-half sheet on a napkin or bam000 rolling mal. Divide the rice into 6 equal portions; spread 1 portion orer each half sheet of nori, leaving a I/2-inch (I2-millimeter) border of oori exposed. , Spread 1 teasJXlOn (5 milliliters) of wasabi evenly on the rice. t lay 116 of the mushrooms, cucumber and fish strips in a row down the middle of the rice. I t.:se the napkin or bamboo mat to roll the nori tightly around the rice and garnishes. 1 Slice each roll into 6 pieces and serve with the remaining shoyu, pickled ginger :lOd wasabi. \'alues per piece: Calories 40, Total fat 0 g. Satur:alled fat 0 g. Cholesterol 5 mg, ...... m rug, Total nrbohydr.lles 6 g, Protcln 2 g, Viwnin C 1S%. Claims--hl fRoe; low coo. 101\. nIoric
J. Preparing the garnishes for the sushi roiL
2. Spreading the rice over the nori.
J, Adding the garnishes in a row
4, Rolling the non around the rice and garnishes.
down the middle of the rice.
5. Slicing the roll into six pieces.
839
840
~
CHAPl'ER 28
Hot Hors d'Oeuvre To provide a comprehensive list of hot hors d'oeuvre would be virruall)· It possible; therefore, we discuss just a few of the more commonly CnCOO!llM ones that can be easily made in most any kitchen.
Filled PastT)' Shells Because savory (unsweetened) barquettes and tartlets, chaux puffs mi bouchees can hold a small amount of liquid, they are often baked then filial with warm meat, poultry or fish purees or ragouts, garnished and ser.edlxt They become soggy quickly, however, and must be prepared at the laSlIXl" sible minute before service.
Brochettes Hors d'oeuvre brochettes are small skewers holding a combination of mel. poultry, game, fish, shellfish or vegetables. TIle foods are typically rnarinaIcIl then baked, grilled or broiled and are usually served with a dipping SOIlK"t. Brochettes can be small pieces of boneless chicken breast marinated in ". wine and grilled; beef cubes glazed with teTiyaki sauce; lamb or chicken S3I:lJ (sate) with peanut sauce or rabbit and shiitake mushrooms skewered sprig of fresh rosemary. (See recipes at the end of this chapter.) In order to increase visual appeal , the main ingredients should be carefuIr cut and consistent in size and shape. The ingredients are normally diced.1If strips of meat and poultry can also be threaded onto the skewers. As hors d'oeuvre, the skewers should be very small, slightly larger than I toothpick. When assembling brochettes, leave enough exposed skewer so tbII dincrs can-pick them up ~asily. Wooden skewers have a tendency to bum cU· ing cooking. Soaking them in water before assembling helps reduce the riSk ri burning.
on,
============= ~ =========== RECIPE 28.5
RABBIT AND SHlI'EtKE SKEWERS Yield: 12 Skewers Rabbit Shiitake mushrooms Rosemary sprigs Salt and pepper Olive oil
I 2 lb. 12 IT 2 oz.
I I kg 12 IT
60g
1. Bone the rabbit and CUt the pieces into II2-inch (t.2-centimeter) rubes. One rabbit should produce 36 cubes. 2. Wash the mushrooms. Trim and discard the stems. 3. Cut enough of the mushrooms into I/2·inch (1.2-centimeter) dice (0 pr0duce 24 pieces. 4. Skewer 3 pieces of rabbit and 2 pieces of mushroom alternately OIUO eadI rosemary sprig. 5. Season the skewers and the remaining mushrooms with salt and pepper and brush with olive oil. Grill the skewers and (he mushroom caps 0'0"0' medium heat, being careful not to bum the rosemary sprigs.
HORSD'OBlJI'RE ANDCANAPEs ~ 841
, Slice the mushroom caps and arrange a portion of sliced mushrooms and 1rabbit skewers on each plate.
...._ ,-wes per skewer: CaJories 160, TotaJ !;It 8 g, Saturated fat . . . . 3) mg,
Tou! C2tb0hydrates
tl
1.5 g, Cholesterol 30 mg,
g, Protein 12 g
" !ails Ibtballs made from ground beef, veal, pork or poultry and served in a sauce lUTe! style :Ire :I popubr hot hors cl '(lf'l1Vre. One of the best known is the SI'edish meatball. It is made from ground beef, veal and pork bound with tggs and bread crumbs and served in a veloute or cream sauce seasoned with di. Other sauces that can be used in the same manner are mushroom sauce, ad wine sauce or any style of tomato sauce.
=========== ~ ============ RECiPE 28.6
S WEDISH MEATBALLS Y.~,
4 lb. 8 oz. (2 kg)
Onions, small dice Whole buner Ground beef Ground pork Bread crumbs, fresh Eggs Sail Pepper Xutmeg AUspice Lemon zest, grated Demi-glace, hot Ht':lvy cream, hot Fresh dill, chopped
250 g
Soz. 2 oz. 2 lb. 2 lb. 4 oz.
60g 1 kg 1 kg
3
3
1 lOOp. 1T 1T 1T 1 tsp. 1 qt. 8 oz. 2lbsp.
15 ml 1T 1T 1T 5011 III 250 ml 30ml
120 g
L Saut~ the onions in butter without coloring. Remove and cool. 1 Combine the onions with all the ingredients except the demi-glace, cream
and dill. Mix well. Portion the meat with a "20 scoop; form into balls with your hands and place on a sh\!e\ pau. t Bake the meatballs al 400°F (200°C) until fi rm, approximately 15 minutes. Remove the meatballs from the pan with a sloned spoon, draining well, and place in a hotel pan. 1 Combine the demi-glace, cream and dill; pour over the meatballs. , Co>,'er the meatballs and bake at 350°F (l80°C) until done, approximately 20 minutes. Skim off the grease from the surface and serve. j
Appmim:ue- ,... Iues per 5-oz- (l49-g) .se,.ving: Calories 250, Total fat 16 g, Saturated fat 7 g, ChoIIIIeroI tl)5 mg, Sodium 420 mg, Tou t carlXlhydrates 7 g, Protein 20 g, CalcIum 30%
842
c""'\!I:~
CIIAPTER 28
Rumaki Traditionally, rumaki were made by wmpping chicken livers in bacoo broiling or baking them. Today, however, many Other foods prepared i1m, same fas hion are called rumaki. For example, blanched b;lcon can be \\l2W\1 around olives, pickled watermelon rind. water chestnuts, pineapple, scallops. These morsels are then broiled, baked or fried and served piping III
-v'"
======
RECIPE 28.7
DArE AND CHORIZO RU~tAKl Yield: 32 Pieces Bacon, thin-CUI slices Chorizo (Recipe 27.21) Cream cheese Whole dates, pined
16
16
8 oz. 4 oz.
250 g 120 g
32
32
1. Partially cook the bacon on a sheet p:m in a 350°F (l80 QC) oven. approI·
imately 5 minutes. 2. Cook the chorizo to render the excess fat. If the chorizo is in links, re!lKl't the meat from the casings before cooking. 3. Remove the cooked chorizo from the pan and dmin in a mesh Sl:rainera china cap to remove excess fat. TIlen blend the cream cheese into the meal.
4. Cut the dates open, butterfly sryle. Stuff each date with a portion d the cilurtw mixture.
5. Wrap each date with a half slice of bacon, securing with a tOOlhpick. 6. Arrange the rumaki on a rack placed over a sheet pan. Bake at 3m (t80 C) until the bacon is crisp and the dates are hot, approximatelr 1;"'~ minutes. Q
Approximate V
Stuffed WOIl/Oll Skins Wanton skins are an Asian noodle dough used to prOOuce a wide variet)· d hors d'oeuvre such as a miniature version of the traditional egg roll or a p.!ff filled with a mixture of seasoned cream cheese and crab. Or the}' can be stuffed with a wide variety of pork, chicken, shellfi sh and vegetables beftR cooking. As hors d'oeuvre, stuffed wonton skins can be steamed, but the'i art more often pan-fried or deep-fried.
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 28.8
STUFFED WONTONS WITH APRICOT SAUCE Yield: 24 pieces Cream cheese Crab meat Garlic, chopped Green onion, sliced
80z. 8 oz. 1 !Sp. I oz.
250 g 250 g ; ml 30 g
1I0RS D'OEUVRE AND CANAfts
Salt and pepper Worcestershire sauce Sesame oil Wonton skins ApriCOl: Sauce (recipe follows)
IT IT IT
IT IT IT
2,
24
as needed
as needed
1. Place the cream cheese in the bowl of a mixer and mi.x until soft. l. Add the crab, garlic and green onion. Season with salt and pepper, Worces· tershire sauce and a drop or two of sesame oil. j Place several wanton skins on a work surface. Brush the edges with water. Place 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) of the cre:lm cheese mixTUfe in rhe ('en· ter of each skin. Fold the wanton skin in half to form a triangle; seal the edges. 4. Deep-fry the wantons using the swimming method, at 350°F (I80°C) for 10 seconds. Remove the wantons, drain well and refrigerate. S. AI service, deep-fry the wOOlOns at 350°F (I80°C) until crisp, approximately 1 minute. Serve with ApriCOt Sauce.
APRICOT SAUCE Yield: 8 oz. (250 g) ApriCO( preserves Fresh ginger, grated Dry mustard Red wine vinegar
8 oz. I Thsp.
250 g 15 ml
1 LSp.
5m1
I Thsp.
15 mI
I. Combine all ingredients and heat until the preserves melt and the flavors
blend. A;¥oxinute values per piece, CaIoric:5 70, Tow fat 3.5 g, Satunted fat 2 g. Cholesterol 20 mg, SodIum 120 mg, Total c:arboh}"drates 5 g, Protein 3 g
Other Hot Hors d'Oeuvre Other types of hot hors d'oeuvre include layers of phyllo dough wrdPped around various fillings; vegetables· such as mushrooms that are stuffed and traked; tiny red potatoes filled with sour cream and caviar or Roquefon cheese and walnuts; tiny anichoke or dam fritters or any of the hundreds of varieties of chicken wings that are seasoned or marinated, baked, fried , broiled or grilled and served with a cool and soothing or outrageously spicy sauce. The secret is to let your imagination be your guide, to keep the ingredients harmonious and, if the hors d'oeuvre are to precede dinner, not to allow them to duplicate the foods to be served or overpower them with excessively spicy ftarars.
fRrving HoI'Sd'Oeuvre Hors d'oeu\'Te are not only served as a precursor to dinner. At many events, 1be only foods served may be butlered hors d'oeuvre, an hors d'oeuvre buffet or a combination of the fWO. Whether the hors d'oeuvre are being served be· fore dinner or as dinner, butler sryle or buffet sryle, they must always be attractively prepared and displayed. All eventS have themes and varying degrees of formality. Long buffets wilh QI·erflowing baskets of crudites and sweet potato chips with dips presented in hollowed squashes and cabbages may be appropriate for one event, while el·
c'0..
843
r 844
t""!a.
CHAPTER 28
egant silver trays of carefully prepared canapes passed among guestS b.,.III'btgloved, ruxedoed service staff may be appropriate for another. When pre;w ing and serving hors d'oeuvre, always keep the event's theme in mind 2l1li plan accordingly. When choosing hors d'oeuvre, select an assortment that contrasts ~ textures and styles. There are no limits 10 the variety of hors d'Qellne tIw QI be served, but three to four cold and three 10 four hot selections are sufficis
for most occasions. TIle following is a sample selection of hOI and cold 1m d'oeuvre that contrast flavors, textures and styles as well as rypes of food.
Cold
+ Canapes of smoked salmon on brioche + Barqucnes fi lled with Roquefort cheese and garnished with grapes + Tiny tortilla cups filled with grilled chicken and spicy tomato salsa Hot
+ Tiny pouches of shrimp wrapped in phyllo dough (Recipe 28.24) + Dale and chorizo rumaki (Recipe 28.7)
• Rabbit and shiitake skewers (Recipe 28.5) • Small chevre tans (Recipe 28.16) Generally, three hors d'oeuvre per person, per hour is an approprialefcr· mula for determining the number of hors d'oeuvre needed. If hoes d'oet.Mt are the only food being served, however, four (0 five pieces per person. per hour may be more appropriate.
Butler Service Butler service hors d'oeuvre, or "passed" hors d'oeuvre, are presented togues on trays by the service staff. The hors d'oeuvre can be hot or cold and sIWd be very small to make it easier for the guests to eat them without the aid ci, knife or fork. Hot and cold hors d'oeuvre should be passed separately SON they can be kept at the correct temperatures. For a one-hour cocktail ~ tion before a dinner, three to five hors d'oeuvre per person is usually st6 cient.
BlIffet Service An hors d'oeuvre buffet should be beautiful and appetizing. It may consist Ii a single table to serve a small group of people or several huge multilel'el dGplays designed to feed thousands. Colors, flavors and textures must all be taken into account when planning the menu. Both hot and cold hors d'oeuvre may be served on buffets. Hot hors d'oon1t are often kept hot by holding them in chafing dishes. Alternatively, hot 1m d'oeuvre can be displayed on trays or planers; the trays and planers, howf'\tr, must be replaced frequently to ensure that the food stays hot. Cold hors d'oon1t can be displayed on trays, mirrors, planers, baskets, leaves, papers or other sming pieces to create the desired look.
Arranging Buffet Platters When displaying hors d'oeuvre and other foods on mirrors, trays or planm, the foods should be displayed in a pattern that is pleasing to the eye and m toward the guest or from one side to the other. An easy and anractive metIxxI for accomplishing this is to arrange the items On a mirror or lray with an I·
nONS D'OElJIIRE AND CANAPEs r"a.
can be used to effectiLrely display canapes and other
centerpiece. The food can be placed in parallel diagonal lines, altervarious styles and shapes. Be careful not to make the tray or mirror fussy or cluttered, however; often the best approach is to keep it simple. diagrams in Figure 28.2 may be used as guides for arranging canapes and foods on trays.
prep3ration of hors d'oeuvre provides an opportunity for the chef to ~::~:'h:is or her creativity, knowledge of fcxxl and skills in presentation III
Because hors d'oeuvre often serve as the guests' introduction foods you serve, it is especially important that these foods be properly and of the highest quality.
Discuss four guidelines that should be followed when preparing hors d'oeuvre. Identify and describe the three parts of a canape. Describe the differences between beluga, osetra and sevruga caviars, and explain how these differ from domestic caviars. Create an hOTS d'oeuvre menu for a small cocktail party. Include three hot and three cold items, and explain the reasons for your selections.
845
846 '"'" .
C1IAPl7'.R 28
dnDlTlONAL H ORS D'OEUVRE AND CANAPE R ECIPES ,n-, RECIPE 28.9
CURRIED CHICKEN NOTl!•."
CANAPEs
71Jis WI/ape appears ill/he Chapter (tJetling phctcgraph. PREP CHEf, INC., PIIQE.'i:!X, AZ
ChI>f.Wdl1ey Hrodsk)'
Bread, thinly sliced
as needed
Chicken Curry Spread (recipe follows)
as needed
Vegetable garnishes
as desired
as needed as needed as desired
1. Toast the bread lightly. Top with a smooth, even layer of Chicken
Spread. 2. Cut the bread into the desired shapes, such as squares, ci.,I05or (1Wo" being sure to wipe the knife blade clean after each eu!. Garnish canape as desired.
CHICKEN CURRY SPREAD Yield: 25 Servings
Chicken breast, ooneiess, skinless, cooked Cream of coconut Mayonnaise Curry powder Lemon juice Salt and white pepper J.
lib. 1/2 cup 1/2 cup
1 1/2 l1)Sp. I Tbsp. IT
4;0 8 120 mI 120 mI 4S ml
30 rn] IT
Cut the chicken into small pieces and place in a food processor. a fi ne texture is obtained.
2. Add the remaining ingredients and mix until blended. Refriger.ue needed, but use within two days. VAlUAnON: For a mixure that can be piped into barquettes or used:lS nish, process the chicken until very smooth and add 2 to 3 00"'" 'I"" grams) of plain cream cheese. Appro~imate
values per 1-01.. (zs.g) serving, Calo ries f(). Total fat 6 g. Saturated fll terol 20 mg. Sodium 40 mg. Total carbohydra tes 1 g. Protein 6 g
====== .~ =====
RECIPE 28. 10
B UCKWHEAI' BUNJ Yield: 24 B!ini
Granulated sugar Dry yeast Milk, lukewarm Buckwheat flour
2lsp.
IOml
1/4 oz. 14 oz. 4 oz.
78 420 mI 120 8
IIORS D'OEUVRE AND GWAPPs C""'a.
,Ul-purpose flour -.Jl l"nsalted butter, mehed \egetable oil Egg yolks Egg whites
3 oz. 1/2 tsp. 3 Thsp. 2 Thsp.
90g
3
3
2
2
2 ml 45 ml 30ml
1 Stir the sugar and yeasl into the warmed milk and let stand until foamy, ap-
proximately 5 minutes. l1fhisk in the flours, salt, bUller, oil and egg yolks. Beat until smooth. CoI'cr the b.1l1cr and allow it to rise in a w;lrm place until doubled, approximately I hour. Beat the egg whites to stiff peaks, then fold them into the risen baiter. S Lightly oil and preheat 3 brge saute pan. Drop 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) ofballer into (he S3ulc pan, spacing Ihe blini 31 least I inch (2.5 centime1m) apart. Cook until the bottom of each blini is golden, approximately I minute. Turn the blini and cook an 3dditional 30 seconds. Remove fro m the pan and keep W3 rm for service. , Blini tn:ly be used as a (;lI1ape base and is commonly topped with creme miche and garnished wilh caviar. ''lim pet pieu': Calories 70. Total fal " 8, Saluraled fal 1.5 g, Cholesterol 35 mg, 00 mg. TOIal carboh,'dnues 7 8, Protein 2 8
1======= ..."" RECIPE 28.11
FRY BREAD CANAPes THE BOUI.OF.RS RESORT, CAAmEE, AZ Corporate Execlltlve Che/Charles Wiley
Yltld: 24 Dnapes :\ll·purposc flour Yellow cornmeal Baking powder ~ga' ~I!
BuIlCT, cold Buttt'mlilk Flour for kneading Pumpkinseed Cream (Recipe 15.9) .\\'OC1rlo Salsa (recipe follows)
2 1/2 cups 1/2 cup 2 Thsp, I l1)sp. I tsp. I Thsp. 1 pI.
as needed as needed as needed
750 ml 125 ml 30ml 15 ml 5 ml 15 ml 500 ml as needed as needed as needed
L ~Ii'{ all dry ingredients in a mixing bowl. Cut in the butter with a pastry cutter or your fingenips , J\'iix thoroughly to the consistency of gravel. " Add buuermilk and stir to make a thick dough. Place the dough on a floured board and knead well, adding up to 1/2 cup (120 milliliters) flour as needed, Place the dough in an oiled bowl and allow it to rest for 30 minutes.
Oil )'our fingertips before working with dough; then fashion the dough into 2-inch (5-centimeter) balls and fl atten slightly, Continued
847
848 ...".
CJW'lFR 28
4. Heat oil in a skillet at 3500)F 080°C) and fry until golden brown, tumlI once. Drain and slice in half horizontally while still hot.
5. Spread a generous amount of Pumpkinseed Cream on the cut side and If with salsa. Serve immediately. Approximate l':lIues per piece: Calories 230. Total fal ]8 g, Saturated &t 2.5 g, ChoIestmll 01J, Sodium 120 mg, Total carbohydnltcs 13 g, Protein 2 g
AVOCADO SALSA Yield: 1 1/2 pt. (750 m1)
1/4 114 114 1 1 112 tsp. 1 oz. 1
Red bell pepper, diced fine Green bell pepper, diced finc
Small red onion, diced fine Green onion, sliced fine GarliC, roasted and pureed Fresh lemon juice Serrano chile, minced CilanlrO, chopped Plum tomatoes, seeded and diced
Avocado, diced Salt and pepper
114 1/4 1/4 1 8 ml 30 ml
1
IT
IT
4 1
4 1
IT
IT
1. In a mixing bowl, combine the peppers, onions, garlic, lemon juice, eYe and cilantro. Mix well. 2. Fold in the lomalOes, then the avocado carefu lly. Season to {aslC. Approximate y;llues per l-oz. (Z7..g) serving: Calories 15, Total (al 1.5 g. Saturaled fat 0 80 CIIb tend 0 mg, Sodium 0 mg. Total carboh)'drlltes 1 8. Protcin 0 8. Vitamin C I ~ ~It no cholesterol; low calorie
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 28. 12
RAlALIW'A OLIVE AND AsMGO CROSTINI LF.S GOURMt.TIES COOKING SCIIOOL, PHOENIX, AZ Barbara FC1Izl, CCP
Yield: 12 Pieces French bread Basil leaves, chopped Tomato concasse Garlic, chopped Kalamata olives, pitied, chopped Asiago, grated
1/2 loaf
1/2 loaf
50
50
4 oz. 2 [Sp.
lW g
15 2
oz.
lOmi 15 60g
1. Slice the bread 1/4 inch (6 millimeters) thick. 2. Combine (he remaining ingredients and mix well. 3. Spread 1/2 tablespoon (8 milliliters) of the mixture on each slice of tmd. place under the broiler or salamander until hot and the cheese is mekd, approximately 2 minutes. Approximue values per piece: Calorlel!l 60. Total rat 2 II. Sa turated rat I g. Cholc:5terol ) III Sodium 180 mg. Total carbohydratel!l 8 g. Prote in 2 g. Clainu-Iow fal ; low dlOleSlerol; Ill.
HONS D'OEUVRE AND CANAI'~ ~
849
I====== ~ ====== RECIPE 28. 13
SAUTEED
D UCK LIVER CANAPE Wl11I CANDIED RHUBARB Rlrl·CARLTON 110m, CHICAGO, IL Executive Cbe/George Bumbaris
r.eki: 4 Pieces Rhubarb, sliced thin Simple syrup Brioche, [-in. (2.5-cm) triangles O'Jck liver (Grade A), 1/2-in. (l.2S-cm) thick by I-in. (2.5-cm) long slices Bllck pepper K~her salt
12 slices I oz.
4 4 IT IT
12 slices 30 ml 4
4 IT IT
1 Combine the rhubarb and simple syrup in a small saute pan. Simmer until almost dry, but do no t allow the rhubarb to fall apart. Remove the candied rflubarb from the pan and sct aside to cool. t Toasl one side of the brioche triangles. J Season the duck liver with pepper. t. Put the salt into a vcry hot saule pan over high heat. Add the duck liver and sear on bolh Sides. Remove the pan from the heal and allow the liver 10 finish
cooking.
1 Place a slice of duck liver on e ach brioche triangle and garnish with a small
fan of the rhubarb slices. ~c values per pit'Ce: CaIorle5 210, Total {at S g, Satul1lted fat 2 g, ChoIe5teroJ 265 mg,
.... :m mg, Total carbohydl1lle5 n
g, Protein 12 g, Vitamin A 530%, Iron !mil
~
RECIPE 2S. 14
H UMMUS Ylrld: 1ql. (I II) Otkkpeas, cooked T~hini paste Garlic, chopped Wm;'
lemon juice s.h
Cayenne pepper Oli...eoil Fresh parsley, chopped
I lb.
Soz. 2 (Sp. 1/2 tsp. 4 oz. 1 tsp.
450 g 225 g 10 ml
Tahini pasle---a paste madefrom crusbed
"""'" """.
2ml
120 ml 5 ml
IT
IT
2 oz. 2 (Sp.
60g 10 ml
l Combine Ihe chickpeas, tahini, garlic, cumin and lemon juice in a food processor; process unlil smooth. Season with salt and cayenne. Corlfinued
850 ...... .
CIIAPl1!R 28
2. Spoon the hummus onlO a serving platter and smooth the surface. Driz2t the olive oil over the hummus and garnish with the chopped parsley. Sent with warm pita bread that has been cut into quarters. Approximate values per 2-oz. 54-g) scrvi ng: Calories 210, TOlal fat 16 g, SlIturated f.1I I g. CIdI-
tcrol 0 mg, SodIum 250 mg. Toul carbuh ydrales iO g, Protein 7 g. Iron 8%
====== ,~ ====== RECIPE 28.15
GUACMIOLE Yield : 1 ql. (I It)
Avocados
6
6
Lemon juice Green onion, sliced
2 1/2 oz, 4 TI)Sp.
Cilantro, chopped Tomatoes, seeded, diced Garlic, chopped
31bsp. 31bsp.
Dried oregano
112 !Sp.
75 ml 60 ml 4S ml 45 ml Sml 2ml
Jalapenos, seeded, chopped Salt
1 IT
I IT
I
{Sp.
I , Cut each avocado in half. Remove the seed and scoop out the pulp.
2. Add the lemon juice to the avocado pulp and mix well, mashing the 310cado pulp. 3. Add the remaining ingredients. Season wilh salt :md mix well. Approxirn.ale values pet 2-oz. (60-g) .serving: Calories 120, Total fat 12 II. Saturated f2t 0 g. a.itt ternl O mg, Sodium 25 mg, Total carboh }'d rates I g. Protem 2 g. Vitamin C IS%, Cbims--ro* ura!1'd fa!; no cholesterol; no sugar; high IibeT
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 28.16
SPINAaI AND AKrlaIOKE DIP Yield: 4 lb. 6 oz. (2 kg) Onion, medium dice Garlic, chopped Clarified butler Frozen chopped spinach, thawed Artichoke hearts, canned, chopped coarse Cream sauce Worcestershire sauce Parmesan, grated Salt and pepper Tabasco sauce
3 oz. 2 !Sp. 1 oz. 1 lb. 8 oz.
90g 10 ml J(I ml 700g
lib. I q1. 2 !Sp. 6 oz.
45(1 g
rr
IT IT
IT
ill JO m! IBOg
I . Saute the onion and garlic in the butter until tender without coloring. 2. Add the spinach and saute until hot. J. Add the artichoke hearts, cream sauce, Worcestershire sauce and 4 0I.Ilte (120 grams) of the Parmesan. r..tix well. 4. Season with salt, pepper and Tabasco sauce.
liaRS D'OEl/VREAND CANAPes
S Tnnsfcr the dip to a half hotel fY
Ie ~ ]j
====== ~ ======
Ii
RECIPE 28.17
PICKLED VEGETABLE ROLLS TIlE BOUillERS RESORT, CW.FREE, AZ Corporate Executive CheJChtlrles WilllJ'
'1t1d: 16 Pieces Red chard
6 leaves
6 leaves
Vegetable shortening spray Eggplanl Kosher sail Black pepper Pickled Vegetables (recipe follows) GlantrO Puree (recipe follows) Aged Monterey jack cheese, grated
as needed
as needed
1 IT IT
1 IT IT
2 Thsp. 2 Thsp.
30ml 30ml
L f\bnch the red chard in boiling water. Refresh in ice water and set aside. 1 Spray a baking sheet liglllly with vegetable spray. Thinly slice the eggplant lengthwise and spread the slices out in a single layer. Season with salt and pepper. Bake in a 47;oF (2;0°C) oven until slightly browned around Ihe ffiges, approximately 8-10 minutes. Cool slightly. l lay 5to 6 slices of eggplanl along the bottom edge of a bamboo roller covered with plastic wrap. Blot lhe chard well with a paper towel and CUt oul any tough ribs. Cover the eggplant with one layer of chard. i Place 6 ounces (ISO gr:.llns) of Pickled Vegetables in a long pile on lOp of the chard. Spoon approximately 1 tablespoon (I; milliliters) of Cilantro Puree along the front of the vegetables, followed by 1 tablespoon (I5 milliliters) of the cheese. Roll up sushi style, making sure the first roll is nice and tight. Cover with samn wmp and refrigerate until ready to use. S Prepare a second roll with the remaining vegetables. Cut each roll into e;ghlhs. ~Ie nlues per slice: Calories 21. Tow fat A g, Saturated fat 0 g, Cholesterol 1 mg, ..... 210 mg, TotaJ carbohydnte!l 4 g, Protein 1 g, VIlllmln A 2m, Vitamin C 37%, Claim.'!"" aIo:t. low fal. low cholest<.'fOI
PICKLED VEGETABLES Yield: 12 oz. (260 g)
Canot, peeled Jicama, peeled
Red bell peppe', seeded YeUow bell pepper, seeded '!'al"
While wine Vinegar
1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 2 oz. 2 oz.
1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 60ml 60ml Continued
('\'!\.
851
852
<"0\.
CIIAP77iR 28
Garlic clove, peeled and crushed Serrano chile, sliced Fresh thyme Mustard seed Fennel seed Bay leaf Brown sugar, packed Kosher salt
2 sprigs 112 tsp. 1/2 ~p.
3m! 3m!
I
I
I Tbsp.
1/2
~p.
2 sprigs
30m! 3m!
1. Cut the carrot, jicama, red and yellow bell peppers into long 2. Combine the remaining ingredients in a nonreactive saucepan and a boil.
3. Place the vegetables in a glass or stainless steel pan and pour uid over them. 4, Cool to room temperature and refrigerate. Approximate values per 2.()z. (69-g) serving: Calorlo 40, Total fat 0 g, Saruratcd r. 0 g. IUOI O mg, Sodium 3<XI mg, Total carboh)11ratet 9 g, Protein 1 g. Vitamin A ZO%, ClaiJm-..fat free; low Cll\orie
CILANTRO PUREE Yield: 2 oz. (60 ml) Cilantro, leaves only Jalapeno pepper Garlic cloves White wine, reduced by half DI)' bread crumbs Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup 1/2 2 4 oz. as needed
6Om!
TI
TI
1/2 2
12Q m! as needed
1. Remove the stem and seeds from the jalapeno. 2, Combine all ingredients except the bread crumbs in the work 00wI food processor. Begin processing, adding the bread crumbs linle by
until the mixture resembles a smooth paste. Approxinliue values per 112·.oz. (16-g) .';ClVinS: CaloriCII 4, Total fat 0 g, Saturated fa ternl 0 mg, Sodium 1 mg, Total carbohydrates I g, Protein 0 g. Vitamin C I7%. " " _. . . ric; no fa!; no cholesterol; very low sodium
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 28.18
LAMB
SAm'
Yield: 16 Skewers lamb leg meat, boned, trimmed Vegetable oil Lemon grass, chopped Garlic, chopped Red pepper flakes, crushed Curry powder Honey Fish sauce Peanut Sauce (Recipe 10.34)
21b. 2 oz. 2 Tbsp. I Tbsp. I tsp. I Tbsp. I Thsp. I Thsp. as needed
I kg
60g 30m! I; ml ;m! I;ml 1; mI 1; mI as needed
HORSO 'OEUVREANDCANAPIs c""5!\..
1 Cullhe lamb into 2-ounce (Go-gram) strips approximately 4 inches (10 centimctcrs) long. Lightly pound the strips with a mallet. Thread the strips Onto 6-inch (l5-centimeter) bamboo skewers that have been soaked in water. To make the marinade, combine the remaining ingredients in the bowl of afood processor and pur(>c until smOO(h. Brush the meat with the marinade and allow to marinate for 1 hour. Grill the skewers until done, approximately 2 minutes. Serve with Peanut Sauce (Recipe 10.34). Beef or chicken satay can be 1ll.1de by substituting well-trimmed boneless, skinless chicken meat for the lamb.
:::'":'::: per skewer. Calories 118. Total fat 7 g, Saturated fat 2 g, Cholesterol 37 rng, , Total carbohJdrates 2 g, Protein 12 g = '====== ~ ====== RECIPE 28.19
RED
POTATOES
WITH WALNVTS AND GORGONZOlA Yield: 80 Pieces New red pD(atoes Sal! and pepper Fresh thyme Olive oil Cream cheese Gorgonzola Baron, medium dice, cooked Sour cream 'fainulS, chopped coarse Iforcestershire sauce Tabasco sauce ChiVes, minced
40
40
IT
IT 10 ml
2 \Sp. 2 oz. 8 oz. 3 oz. 1 oz. 4 oz. 1 1/2 oz. IT IT
3 Thsp.
Go ml 250 g 90g JOg 120 g 45 g IT
IT 45 ml
1 Cut the potatoes in half and scoop out a ponion of the inside with a parisienne scoop. .1 Toss the potatoes with the salt, pepper, thyme and olive oil. Arrange the poIatoes on a sheet pan with their flat surfaces down and bake at 400°F (200°C) until brown and cooked through, approximately 15 minutes. Soften the cream cheese in the bowl of an electric mixer. Add the Gorgonzola, bacon bits, sour cream and walnuts. Mix until smooth. Season . . .ith the Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces. Using a pastIY bag and plain tip, fill each hOt potatO half with the cold cheese mixture and sprinkle with chopped chives.
FiJI the cooked potatoes with creme fraiche, top with caviar and with sliced chives instead of using the bacon-and-cheese mixture. l'lIiU('S per pil'«" CaIoriC5 ~, Total fat 3 g, Saluraled fal I g, Choleslerol 5 mg, . . . . )j, ,"", Tow carbohrdra1ef 6 g, Protein I g, Clam-low fa!; )ow cholesterol; )0,,' sodium;
853
854
,~.
CHAPTER 28
-
.
RECIPE 28.20
•• (--
STUFFED M USHROOM CAPs
Yield: 48 pieces
White mushrooms, medium Clarified bulter Onion, minced
60 2 oz. 4 oz.
60 60 ml
Flour Heavy cream
1 Thsp.
15 ml
4 oz.
120 mI 120 g 30ml IT
4 oz. 2 Thsp. IT 2 oz.
Ham, cooked, chop~J
Fresh parsley, chopped Salt and pepper Swiss cheese, shredded
120 g
60g
1. Wash the mushrooms. Remove and chop the stems and 12 of the call 2. Saute the whole mushroom caps in I ounce (30 grams) of
leT until panially cooked but still liml. Remove from the pan
aOO
serve.
3. Add the remaining butter to the pan. Saute the onion and chopped rooms until dry. 4. Add the flour and cook I minute. Add the cream; bring to a ,im'~" cook for 2 minutes.
5. Add the ham and parsley, season 10 taste with sail and pepper; stir bine. Remove from the pan and cool slightly. 6. Stuff the mush room caps with the ham mixture and sprinkle witl' shrolll Swiss cheese. 7. Bake the mushrooms at 3500F (l80°C) umil hot, approximate~' minutes. Approximate values per piece: Calories 30, ToUl rat 25 g, Saturalt:d rat 1.5 Sodium 35 mg, Total carbohydrates 1 g, Protein 1 g, low ca lorie; no sugar
====== ~, ===== RECIPE 28.2 1
ESCARGOT IN GARLIC BUTTER Yield: 48 Pieces
Snails, canned
48
48
Butler, softened Shallots, minced Garlic, chopped Parsley, chopped Salt and pepper Mushroom caps, medium
1 lb. 21bsp.
450 g
}, Drain and rinse the snails.
2 tsp. 3 Thsp.
30ml lOml 4Sml
IT
IT
48
48
HORSD'OElJIIHEANDCANAPIs ~.
! Combine the butter, shallots. garlic, parsley, salt and pepper in a mixer or food processor and mix or process until well blended. 1 Same the mushroom caps in a small amount of the garlic butter until cooked blll still fiml . Remove from the heat. , Pl:!ce a snail in each cap and top with a generous amount of the garlic butter. S. Bake the mushrooms and snails at 450°F (23QOC) for 5 to 7 minutes and serve hoI. tw.m01l"; Prepare 48 sm,11I bouchees from puff pastry. Saute the snails in a
p:rous amount of the garlic butter and place one snail in each bouchee. IkizzIe the snail with the garlic butter and serve. Ipmnute l-a!u<.'$ pt.... piece: Calorie5 63. Total fat 6 g. Sa tul'3tN fat 4 g. Chok:stcrol ]9 mg. mg. Total carbohydratC$ .5 g. Protcln ] g. Vitamin A ~
~ 64
I========== ~ ============ RECIPE 28.22
CHEVRE TARTS Yield: 12 Tarts
Tomato concasse Pepper Parmesan. grated Puff past!)' O~\"eoil
Pesr.o Sauce (Recipe 10.30) Goat cheese (chevre), Montrachet style Zucchini. shredded
4 oz. 1T
3 oz. 8 oz. as needed 2 oz. 4 oz. I lb.
120 g
1T
90g 250 g as needed
60g 120 g
450 g
t Season the tomato concasse with fresh-ground pepper; sprink le with 1 ounce (30 grams) of the Parmesan. L RoU out the puff pastry until it is approximmely 1/4 inch (6 millimeters) thick, then cut it into 12 circles, approximately 2 112 inches (6.25 centimeters) in diameter. j Brush mini-muffin tins with olive oil and line them with the puff pastry circles. , Add 1 teasJXlQn (5 milliliters) of Pesto Sauce to each tal1. i Add 113 ounce (10 grams) of goat cheese to each tal1. , Add enough shredded zucchini to each tan to nearly fill it. 1. Top each tan with the tomato concasse and sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan. , Bake at 375"F 09Q"e) until the tarts are brown on top and the dough is cooked, approximately 15-20 minutes.
""!"O
\~1UC5 per piece: Calo~ 210, ToW fat 15 g. Saturated fat 4.5 So Cho IC$tc rol IS mg. mg, Total carbohrdl'3tcs I] g. Protcm 7 g. Vitamin A 2()%
855
856 '""'"
CIW'l'ER 28
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 28.23
SPANAKOPl1TA Yield: 90 Pieces
1. Slacking (he layers of buuered phyllo pastry.
Onion, small dice
4 oz.
Unsalted butter, melted
6 oz.
Fresh spinach, cooked and cooled, or frozen spinacb, thawed Fresh mint, chopped Feu, crumbled
2. 'l'lacing the fill ing on the paslry.
I Thsp. 1 lb.
700 g 15 ml 450 g
Eggs, beaten
3
3
Sail and pepper
IT 1 lb.
IT
Phyllo dough
..
24 oz.
120 g 180 g
450 g
J. Saute the onions in I tablespoon (I S milliliters) of butler untillenOer.
move and cool.
2. Combine the cooled onions, spinach, mim, fCla and beaten eggs. Seau with salt and pepper and mix well. 1. Spread one sheet of phyllo dough on the work surface; brush wim butter. Place another sheet of phyl10 on top of the first ; brush it v.ith 'ler. place a third sheet of phyJlo on top of the second and brush a,. butter as well . 4. Cut the dough into 2~inch (5-centimeter) wide strips. 5. Place I tablespoon 05 milliliters) of the spinach on the end of ~cb of phyllo. 6: Starting with the end of the dough strip with the spinach, fold one COOl!' of the dough over the spinach mixture to the opposite side of the form a triangle. Continue folding Ihe dough, keeping it in a shape, like point-folding a flag. 7. place the phyllo triangles on a sheet pan and brush with mehed Bake at 375°F 090°C) until brown and crispy, approximately 2Q minllCl Approximate v;llues per pie«, Calories 45. TOIal tal 3 g. Sarur:ued fat 2 g. Cholcs!trd II. Sodium 105 mg. Total catboh)'drales 3 g. PrOlc\n 2 g. Vlumln A 8%. Clalms- .o", fat. p liDo
j. Folding the pastry and filling into
Ieslerot no sugar
triangles.
============ ~ ========== RECIPE 28.24
SHRIMP CRUIlfPLE Yield: 24 Pieces
Rice vinegar Cayenne pepper Garlic, minced Ginger, minced Orange juice Salt and pepper Fresh thyme Papaya
1 Thsp. IT lisp. 1 lbsp. IT IT
15 mI IT 5 ml 5 ml 15m] IT IT
1/2
1/2
] tsp.
HORSD 'OEUVR£ANDGlNAPI.s
,hrimp, 16-20 count, peeled and deveined Phyllo dough ihole butter, melted
12
12
6 sheers as needed
6 sheers as needed
1 To make the marinade, combine the vinegar, cayenne, garlic, ginger and otlnge juice in a bowl. Stir to combine; season with s.alt, pepper and thyme. 1 Peel, seed and cuI the papaya into medium dice. Place the papaya in a oowl and pour a small amount of marinade over il. J Split the shrimp and add them to the marinade. t. Spread one sheet of phyllo dough on a work surface and brush it with butter. 1.1y another sheet on top of the first and brush it with butter. Place a third shect of phyllo on lOp of the second and bnlsh it with buner as wcll. 1 Prepare a second stack of phyllo with the three remaining sheers. Cut each Slack of phyllo dough into 12 squares. , Place one-half shrimp in the center of each square of phyllo dough and pbce several pieces of papaya on each shrimp. Gather the dough around the shrimp and p:lpay:l to form a small pouch. 1. Repe:tt with the remaining shrimp. I Bake the phyllo pouches at 3;oC>F 080C>C) until the phyllo is browned and the shrimp is cooked, approximately 15--20 minutes. Ie \-aJUeS per piece: Calories 60, Total bt I g, Saturated fal 0 g, Choleslerol 85 mg, mg. ToUl carboh)'dt:iles .. g. Proleln 9 g. Vllamin C t5%
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 28.25
SPRING ROLlS YIeld: 36 Rolls Peanut oil Sesame oil Onion, julienne Red bell pepper, julienne Snow peas, julienne Fresh ginger, grated Garlic, chopped Napa cabbage, julienne Bean sprouts Cashews, unsalted, cnlshed Colyenne pepper Salt and pepper Rice paper wrJppers
2 oz. 3 Thsp. 12 oz. 12 oz. 12 oz. 1 Thsp. 1 Thsp. 80z. lib. l ib. I [Sp. 1T
60ml 45 Illi 350 g 350 g 350 g 15 ml 15 ml 2;0 g 450 g 450 g 5ml 1T
36
36
Heat the oils and saule Ihe onions and peppers for 30 seconds. Add Ihe snow peas. ginger and garlic; saute for 15 seconds. Add [he cabbage, bean sprouts, cashews, cayenne, salt and pepper. Cook for IS seconds more. Remove from the heat, cool and refrigerate, Continued
C"S.'!\..
857
858
CIIAf'Th~ 28
""'0""
5. Soak the rice paper wrappers in water for a few seconds to Place 2 ounces (60 grams) of filling in each wrapper. fold (he toward the middle and roll up into a Cigar shape. Brush the water and press 10 seal. 6. Deep-fry the spring rolls at 3500F 080°C) until hot and crispy.
mately 45 seconds. Approximate \':!lUC5 per piece: Ca lories 160. Tota l fal 9 g, Salllrated fal l 51!. Choleslmll Sodium 60 mg. TOIa l carbohrdratcs ]5 g. Protein 4 g. Viumi n A 60%, ViUmin C 14O!i no cholc:sterol; 10", sodium; good source of fiber
2. Filling the spring roll wrappers.
3. Folding the wrapper around the
4. Sealing the spring roll with watt
filling.
RECIPE 28.26
BLUE CORN AND SHRlllfP TAIIWJ3S Yield: 16 Pieces
Fresh blue corn masa Baking powder Shortening Salt Onion, small dice
Red bell pepper, small dice Green bell pepper, sm:lll dice Garlic, chopped Vegetable oil Salt and pepper Shrimp, 1 ~20 count, peeled and deveined Dried corn husks
lib. 112 lSp. 4 oz. IT 5 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. I I
tsp. oz.
IT
16 as needed
450 g 2 Illl
12<) 8 IT 150 g
60g 60 8
5 IlII
30 IlII IT
16 as needed
J. Combine the masa, baking powder and shonening in a bowl
of ,," ...-
mixer, season with salt and mix until the maS:1 pulls aw,ly from of the bowl. 2. Saute the onion, peppers and garlic in the veget.1ble oil umil tender. son with 5<111. Remove from the heat and cool.
1I0RS D'OEUVRE tiND CANAPts
Cut the shrimp in half lengthwise. , To assemble the tamales, use a rubber spatula to spread 5 ounces 0)0 grams) of the masa mixture lengthwise on a 16 in. x 12 in. (40 cm x 30 nn) piece of parchment paper to form a 4 in. x 12 in. (10 cm x 30 cm) band of masa. Spread I 112 ounces (45 grams) of the vegetable mixture in a line lengthwise down the center of the masa. 1 Place eight shrimp halves, end to end, on top of each row of the vegetable mixture. Roll the parchment paper so that the masa completely encircles the shrimp and vegetable mixture. Twist the ends of the paper to seal. Repeat three more times to make four rolls. Freeze the rolls. , Unwrap each frozen roll and wt into four pieces. Wrap each piece tightly in dry com husks that have been soaked in water, tying each end with thin strands of husk. Steam the tamales for 30-45 minutes. Allow the steamed tamales to res! for 10 minutes after cooking so that the masa becomes firm. Serre warm. j
ippmlflUle l'Jlues per pit'Ce: Calories 280, TOiai fat II g, Sarnratcd fal 3 g, Cho lesterol ...... 200 mg, TOlill carbohyd rales 22 g, Protein 21 g, Vitamin A 25%. Iron 35%
185 mg,
============ ~ ============= RECIPE 28.27
GRIlLED SlIRJilfP WITH
PRosaurro
AND B ASIL
Yield: 12 Pieces Shrimp, 16-20 coum, peeled and deveined, tails removed DIy white wine Rice wine vinegar Thyme Onion, minced Cumin, ground SaIl and pepper Vegetable oil Dried basil Garlic cloves, chopped Prosciutio slices Fresh basil leaves
12 4 oz. 2 oz. 2lsp. 2 oz. I Thsp. TI 6 oz. 2 !Sp.
12 120 ml 60ml 10 ml
60g
2
15 ml TI 180 ml 10 ml 2
3 6
3 6
L Combine all the ingredienls except the prosciutto and fresh basil in a stainless steel bowl. Marinale for 30 minutes. t RemO\·e Ihe shrimp from the marinade and drain them well . 1 CUI each slice of prosciullo into quarters. , Wr:lp each shrimp first wilh 1/2 leaf of basil, then a piece of prosciUIIOi secure with a toolhpick. 1 Grill until done, remove the toothpick and selVe hot or cold. ~ I'2Iues Ix-'r pie«-': Calories 22Q. Total rat t5 g. Sarnrated fal 2 g. Cholesterol t70 mg. ...... l50 mg, Total carbohldr.ttes 2 g. Protem 18 g, Iron t ~
~
859
Like cooking, baking fresh breads and preparing classic mel contemporary pastries and desserts is not simply a maner of following written directions. You must undersland the baking process as well as fundamental techniques and procedures. ~ order to
provide you with a thorough introduction to the skills needed in a bakeshop, we focus on preparing the Iypes of breads and desserts usually found in a small retail shop or restauranl. Because this book is not deSigned lor large wholesale or commercial bakeries, mixes, !labilizers and mechaqical preparalion and shaping skills are nOI included. Pan v begins with a chapter on prepararion and ilgredients, then presents chapters on quick breads and ltasl breads. We then shift to desserts with chapters on p~s, pastries and cookies (including classical doughs such ~ puff pastry and eclair paste), cakes and frostings ("eluding brownies), and creams, custards, frozen desserts mel dessert sauces. Many of the recipes found at the end of Ihese chapters are assembled using components from one or more of the other chapters. Throughout this portion of the book, you will see the oord formula used in place of recipe. This is standard rerminology in the industry.
' ft •
.
~
HAPTER
2
= = = '"""'" = = = After studying this chapler, you will be able (0: ~
recognize and select ingredients used in a bakeshop
t'1a.
control (he development of
<"'\!l.
~ r\!\.
glUlcn cook sugar correctly understand the baking process recognize many of the specialized tools and equipment lIsed in the bakeshop
lour, sugar, eggs, milk, bUller, jlavorillg~Wjtlth~~:;:: of ingredients you can produce a seemingly endless /A from breads to sauces 10 pas/ties. But to produce col,lSisten~" bn'oche, Bavan"ans, biscuits or the like, you must pay careful lion to the character mld quantity of each illgredjem, tbe ""1'l1li gredients are combined and hOUl heat is applied to them. q{ meat that can be gn"'ed, roasted, sauteed or braised allol stiJ1'~ same cut of meat, bakeshop products depend on. careful, preparation for their very identity. Accurate measurements are critical in the bakeshop. It . important to Jollow bakeshop Jormulas careJully alld COlllpl8rely,i like the rest oj the kitchen, mistakes in the bakeshop often discovered until the product isfinished, by which time it is c01rect them. ror example, if)'Ou omit the salt when pr~parillJl,'i tbe mistake can be corrected by adding sait at seroice time omit the salt Jrom a loaJ oj bread, however, /he mis/ake corrected after the bread has baJ..>ed, and its texture and be mined. It is more important to Jollow a written formula, ingredients precisely and combil1e (hem aCClIrateiy in /be (han anywhere else in the kitchen .
INGREDIENTS .n-, Although substituting ingredients may have lillie or no effect on (you can use carrots instead of turnips in a stew, for instance), the case with baked goods. Different flours, fats, liquids and function differently. Bread flour and cake flour are not the same, shortening and bUller. If YOLL substitute one ingredient for another, suits will be different. Understanding ingredients, why they function the way they do and adjust for their differences will make your baking experiences more and consistent. nlis chapter discusses flours, sugar and other SW'."""... thickeners and flavorings such as chocolate, extracts and liquors. UClS , also common in baked goods, are discussed in Chapter 8, Dairy and eggs are discussed in Chapter 20, Eggs.
Flours Wheat Fiollr The most frequently used-and therefore the most i the bakeshop is wheat flour (Fr. jarine). Flour provides bulk and baked goods. Flour is produced by milling wheat kernels (berries). As discussed . ter 23, Potatoes, Grains and Pasta, a wheat kernel has an outer co"trinlla bran. It is composed of several layers that protect the endosperm, tains starches and pfO{eins. The innermost part is the germ, which
PHINCIPlES OF mE BAKESI/OP ~
serves as the whear seed (see Figure 23.0. During milling, the kernels first through metal rollers to crack them, then the bran and genn are removed "'I"''''' stages of sifting and separation. The remaining endosperm is ground into flour. Flour derived from the portion of the endospenn closer the germ is finer; flour derived from the portion of the endospenn nearer is coarser and darker. The character of the wheat determines the character of the flour. Wheats are as soft or bard depending on the kernel's hardness. The harder the l:cmd, the higher its protein content. Soft wheat yields a soft flour with klw proI:ein content. Soft flour, also called weak flour, is best for tender such as cakes. Hard wheat yields a hard flour with a high protein . Hard flour, also known as Strong flour, is used for yeast breads. Various types of flour arc created by mixing or blending flours from differAll-purpose flour, a blend of hard and soft flours, is designed use in a wide range of foods. It is also referred to throughout this book beit is readily available in quantities appropriate for small food service opLarge bakeshops rarely use all-purpose floUf; instead, they choose specifically milled and blended for industrial uses.
I.'gil
I""
'01 SOU"".
~ngand Bleachillg
Any flour develops better baking qualities if allowed to rest for several after milling. Freshly milled flour produces sticky doughs and products volume than those made with aged flour. While aging, flour turns through a natural oxidation process referred to as bleaching. SaNral aging and bleaching are somewhat unpredictable, time-consuming however, so chemicals are now used to do both. Potassium bromate .. chi,,"", dioxide gas rapidly age flour. Chlorine dioxide and other chemiflour by removing yellow pigments in order to obtain a uniform color. Bleaching destroys small amounts of the flour's naturally occurring . E, which is replaced in fortified or enriched products.
Composition of Flour f10ur primarily consists of five nutrients: fat, minerals, mOisture, starches . Fat and miner-Jls each generally account for less than 1% of content. The moisture content of flour is also relatively low~when it cannot exceed 15% under government standards. But its actual content varies depending on climatic conditions and storage. In damp ""I IIC,Ul absorbs moisture from the atmosphere. S!arches comprise 63% to 77% of flour, and are necessary for the absorption . during baking. TIlis process, known as gelatinization, occurs priat temperatures above 140°F (60°C). Starches also provide food for 1",,1 duong fermentation . flour proteins are imponant because of their gluten-fonning potential. is the tough, rubbery substance created when wheat flour is mixf'rl water. Gluten strands are hoI:h plastic (that is, they change shape under and elastic (they resume their original shape when that pressure is . Gluten is responsible for the volume, texture and appearance of goods. [t provides struaure and enables dough to retain the gases given leavening agents. Without gluten, there could be no raised breads: The created by yeast fermentation or chemical leaveners would simply esif there were no network of gluten strands to trap them in the dough. higher a flour's protein content, the greater thaI flour's gluten-forming The proteins responsible for gluten formation are glutenin and i . Flour does nOl contain gluten; only a dough or batter can contain Gluten is produced when glutenin and gliadin are moistened and ma-
865
866
("'\!l.
CIIAPTfjR 29
TABLE
29.1 .-.
Type of Flour
•
PROTEIN CoNT1iNf OF FLOURS Percent Protein
u.k,
7-9.5
Use< Tender cakes
Pastry
7.5-12
Biscuits, pie crusts
A11 -PufJXlSC
1()....13
GenLT.l1 baking
"reod
12-15
Yeast breads
Whole Wheat
13-14
Breads
High Gluten
41-42
To increase protein COflter1 weaker flours for bre-Jd
nipulated, as when lhey are stirred or kneaded. Generally, the longer 1 dlstance is mixed, the more gluten will develop. Products requiring a doughtla can be kneaded and shaped, such as French rolls, require :t flour with a ~ protein content than products meant to be tender, such as cakes or muffins. Table 29.1 lists the protein content :md uses for several common flOllJ5 Iemember that substitutions will result in a changed and probably less cIesiriR product .
Specially Flours Whole Wheat Whole wheat flour, also referred to as graham flour, is made by milling dr entire wheat kernel, including the bran and germ. Whole wheat flour 1m I mmy, sweet flavor and brown, flecked color. Products made with whole 110M flour will be denser, with less volume than those made with white flour. ~ wheat flour has a reduced shelf life because fats in the germ C"Jn become!acid during storage.
Self-Risiug Self-rising flour is an all-purpose flour to which salt and a chemical 1mener, usually baking powder, have been added. [t is not recommended forJX9' fessional use. Chemicals lose their leavening ability over time and ma), C2UIt inconsistent results. Funhermore, different formulas call for different r.JrUG salt and leaveners; no commercial blend is appropriate for all purposes. NOl1wheal Flours Nonwheat flours , also referred 10 as composite flours , are made from grail. seeds or beans. Com, soybeans, rice, oats, buckwheat, potatoes and ala items provide flours , but none of them contain the gluten-forming pnlmci wheat flour. Composite flours are generally blended with a high-protein 'Aid flour for baking. SubsulUling a compostte flour for wheat flour changes vor and texture of the product. R)'e flour is commonly used in bread baking. It is milled from the rye ~ much like wheat flour is milled from the wheat berry. Rye flour comesinkli grades or colors: white, medium, dark and pumpernickel. White rye flour. made from only the center of the rye berry. Medium and dark rye HourSlit made from the whole rye berry after the bran is removed. Pumpernickel. made by grinding the entire rye berry, including the bran. All rye flours hat a warm, pungent flavor similar to CllraWlty and
It.:"
PRINClJll};S OF 111£ BAKESI/OI'
l\m 292 n-. '" 1"'-
~)unil
&pwpose flour ~nour
I?t flour, cbrk Ilde wheat flour
NllfRlTIONAI. VAWES OF SELECTED FLOURS
I'rotein
Carbohydrates
Fiber
Total fat
K,,1
(g)
(g)
(g)
(8)
\03 \02
2.9 3.4
21.6
0.8
92 96
;
20.6 19.5
mq mq
03 05 0.8
3.9
20.6
3.6
0.5
1ttConmIl'T Netzer EnC)'c/opI!ditl III: measurJble
qu:muty but data
of POO(l 1'tllut'S 1992 IS
un:lv:lUablc
~.~ ftour con(;lins prOieins, they will not form gluten, so a bread made with 100' rye flou r will be dense and flat. Therefore, rye flour is usually blended
tilt 3 high·protein wheal flour to produce a more acceptable product. blritiOIl fi:lurs are gener:.tlly high in C
Prtrlwillg IIl1d Storing IbsI Hours are purchased in ;0- and loo-pound bags. They should be stored III lit. \-entilated room at temperatures no higher {han SO"F (27"C). Flour can It SlOI'l'd in a refrigerator or freezer if necessary to prevent the onset of ran~. Refrigeration may cause the flour to absorb moisture, however, which ljllimit the flour's ability to absorb additional moisture during actual usc. An open bag of flour should be transferred to a closed container to prevent tOOllmination. Even unopened bags of flour should not be stored near items tith strong odors, as flOllr readily :Ibsorbs odors.
Sugar and Sweeteners Xtg:i.f (Fr. sucre) and other sweeteners serve several purposes in the ba keshop: ~' pro\'ide flavor and color, tenderize products by weakening gluten tnnds, proddc food for yeasts, serve as a preservative and act as a creaming u foaming agent to assist with leavening.
•
• are carbohydrates. They are claSSified as either (I) single or simple sugm(monosaccharides), such as glucose and fructose, which occur naturally in tm.,' and fruits, or (2) double or complex sugars (disaccharides), which may o:rur naturally, such as l:Ictose in milk, or in refined sugars. The sugar mOSt often used in the kitchen is sucrose, a refined sugar obtIioed from IXlth the large tropical grass called sugar cane (saccbanlln officiIIQTUm) and the root of the sugar beet (bela vulgaris). Sucrose is a disacchame. composed of one molecule each of glucose and fructose. The chemical OXIlposition of beet and cane sugars is identical. The two products taste, look, smell and react the s..1me. Sucrose is available in many forms: white grdnulated, light or dark brown granulated, molasses .lnd powdered.
867
868
~.
CHAPTER 29
~
SliGAR: A SWEET AND SORDID PAST
•
Few foods ha\'e so mun,")' an early history as cuttin&S to the New \1;'orld on his second voyage sugar. now one of the most commonplace of in 1493. Huge sugar cane plantations soon foods. Neither botanists nor anthropologists flourished in the New World, built and worked know precisely where sugar cane first grew or by ensl:l\lrl Africans and their descendants. when sugar was first extracted from il. By the Ism century, European and AmeriNe'I'ertheless, there are records of a crude can middle classes v.'ere able \0 afford sugar by sugar being used as a sweetener tn India more the pound. Sugar was now being used princithan 2500 rears ago. Sugar C:Ule was being cul- pally as a sv.~tener. particularly in connection tivated in the Middle East by the 6th century A.D. with three other imports: coffee, tea and and spread from there to North Africa and chocolate. Sugar. in facl, had become one of SpaIn. Egyptians were manufacturing sugar tile principal components of a vast and comcommercially by the 10th century A.D. plex trade network involving molasses from Westem Europeans first encountered sugar the \'I'es! Indies, distilled rum from New Engin the Middle East during the 12th-century land, finished goods from Europe and slal'CS Crusades. During the succeeding centuries. from Africa. sugar remained a rare luxury in Europe. The Early sugars bore little resemblance to the small amounts available were traded by spice white granulated substance we use today. Until merchants and dispensed by apothecaries. At v:teuum pans and centrifuges \\'ere invented in first, sugar was used only as a medidllf, a the late 19th century, pure sugars \J.'ere unobcondiment or. occasionally. as a preservati\'e. tainable. All contained I':lJ)'ing amounts of m0English cookbooks dating from the late 13005 lasses and other impurities. Most of the world's illustrate an indiscriminate use of sugar as a sugar was sold only in large, bto\\Tl cones. The condiment for mealS, fish and \-egetables. Like price of sugar depended on its whiteness and spices, sugar \J.'aS used to shQY.' a person's fineness, with the whitest sugar being the most "..ealth and position. rostly. When Columbus lruuied in the West Indies, After two centuries of prosperiI}', the sugar he found rul environment perfectly suited for cane industry began to decline in the 19th cengrowing sugar cane, so he brought sugar cane tury. Sel'eral factors contributed to this: aboli-
lion of slal'e!)', diSCO\'ery of aIlemath~ . . . ers and falling sugar prires. If cane sugar \\'as an ancien! p/ld So ploited in the New World, then IlIl'I sup II modem plant fully realized in thE' Oklfllll Although the :lbHiI}' to refine a c:ruF SIIIl8III from root vegetables had been Imcr.In fer. turies, scientislS and chefs mistaken~' IfW that sugar could be obtained onl}' flOO1 pili grown in tropical heat. It wa-; not untll114l that a Gem1:l11 chemis~ Andreas M. proved otherwise. fie isolated ~ same substance produced from sugar en-.: from white beets. His research. oo...'e\~illlIl! hal'e a commercial application unlil ca. sugar supplies were threatened. IMrinIIk: Napoleonic Wars, the BritiYl blocka&dF» pean ports cut off suWlies ci cane • • Napoleon's urging, research into IIWI~ ing beet sugar progrewl The first ~. factory was built in France in 1811_ France, GemJany and Belgium ~ Malt self-sufficient in sugar produaioo. Consumers accepted this 1ll'\I' few complaints; most were totally unawa any difference. Today, aOOut 40% 01 the d sugar is manufactured from beets, prirn2Iif Russia. Gennany and the United Slates.
suP"
Sugar Manufacturing Common refined
Of
table sugar is produced from sugar cane or sup'
beets. The first step in sugar production is to crush the cane or beet to extra(!
the juice. This juice contains tannins, pigments, proteins and other undesir:d* components that must be re moved through refinement. Refinement begir6 t, dissolving the juice in water. then boiling it in large steam evaporators. The i)lution is then crystallized in heated vacuum pans. TIle uncrystallized ~ byproduct, known as molasses, is separated out in a centrifuge. The fl'm1iI. ing crystallized product, known as raw sugar, contains many impurities: dr USDA considers it unfit for direct use in food. Raw sugar is washed with steam to remove some of the impurities. n. yields a product known as turbinado sugar. Refining continues as dr turbinado is heated, liquefied , centrifuged :lnd filtered. Chemicals rna}' be used to bleach and purify the liquid sugar. Finally, the clear liquid sugar is ~'! talJized in vacuum pans as granulated white sugar. Pure sucrose is sold in granulated and powdered forms and is avail3ble II several grades. Because there are no government standards regulating gr:Ni labels, various manufacturers' products may differ slightly.
PRINClPLES OF 771E BAKESHOP ~
Turbinado Sugar Turbinado sugar, sometimes called Demerara sugar, is the closest oonsum... product to raw sugar. It is partially refined, light brown in color, with ttwse crystals and a caramel flavor. It is sometimes used in beverages and cerIIiIl baked goods. Because of its high and variable moisture content, turbinado 'l.Ig3! is not recommended as a substitute for granulated or brown sugar.
Sal/ding Sugar Sanding sugar has a large, coarse crystal structure that prevents it from disIIxl"iog easily. It is used almost exclusively for decorating cookies and pastries.
Regular Granulated Sugar This is the all-purpose suga r used throughout the kitchen. TIle crystals are a fine, uniform size suitable for J l'Jriety of purposes.
Cube Sligar Sugar cubes are formed by pressing moistened granulated sugar into molds and allowing it to dry. Cube i!pr is most often used for beverage service. Brown Sligar Brown sugar is simply regular refined sugar with some cl!be molasses returned to il. Light brown sugar contains JPPrOxim:nely 3.5% molasses; dark brown sugar contains ioJt 6.5%. Molasses adds moisture and a distinctive fla\'1:1. BrowTl sugar can be substituted for refined sugar, measure for measure, in any formula where its flavor is &sired. Because of the added moisture, brown sugar tnds to lump, trapping air into pockets. It should be measured by weight or, if measured by volume, it should re JXIcked firmly into the measuring cup in order to relOO\"eany air pockets. Always store brown sugar in an air~t container to prevent it from drying and hardening.
Clockwise from top lefl, Demerara Sligar cubes, /fghl brown Sligar, powdered Sllgflr, Sligar cubes, broum Sligar Cf)'stais, granulated Sligar
Superfine or Caslor Sugar Superfine sugar is granulated suga r with a smaller-sized crystal. Also known IS castor sugar, it can be produced by processing regular granulated sugar in afood processor for a few moments. Superfine sugar dissolves quickly in Jiquds and produces light and tender cakes.
Pou'Jered or Confectioner's Sugar Powdered sugar (Fr. sucre en poltdre) is made by grinding granulated sugar ar;:(als through varying degrees of fine screens. Powdered sugar cannot be m in a foOO processor. It is widely available in three degrees of fineness: lOX is the finest and most common; 6x and 4X are progressively coarser. Beause of powdered sugar's tendency to lump, 3% cornstarch is added to abQb moisture. Powdered sugar is most often used in icings and glazes and for Ruing baked productS.
liqIIid Sweeteners Exctpt for
leavening, liquid sweeteners can be used to achieve the same ben-
tfu as sugar in baked goods. Most of these liquids have a distinctive flavor as
.-ell as sweetness. Some liquid sweeteners are made from sugar cane; others ae derived from other plants, grains or bees.
869
870 '""" CIIAm~ 29
Corn S)'nlP Com syrup is produced by e.'(tfacting starch from corn kernels and trelIit it with acid or an enzyme to develop a sweet syrup. This syrup is e~ thick or viscous and less sweet-tasting than honey or refined sugar. lis 1'isciJ. ity gives foods a thick, chewy texlUre. Corn syrup is available in light andd:lt fonTIS; the dark syrup has caramel color and flavor added. Com syrup is groscopic (water-attracting) sweetener, which means it will attract water &t. the air on humid days and lose water through evaporation more slowl}' IbM granulated sugar. Thus, it keeps products moister and fresher longer.
1.-
HOlley Honey (Fr. miel) is a powerful sweetener consisting of fructose and ~UCIlt It is created by honey bees from neClar collected from flowers. Its flavor and color vary depending on the season, the type of flower the nectar came frail and its age. Commercial honey is often a blend, prepared to be relatively fIeIIo 1ral and consistent. Like corn syrup, honey is highly hygroscopic. Its dislillCiilt flavor is found in several ethnic foods such as baklava and halvah, and bevcf. ages such as Drambuie and Benedictine.
Maple Syrup Maple syrup is made from the sap of sugar maple trees. Sap is collel1ld during the spring, then boiled to evaporate its water content, yielding a nUl brown syrup. One sugar maple tree produces about 12 gallons of sap eQ season; 30-40 gallons of sap will produce I gallon of syrup. Pure maple ~TIf must weigh nOi less than II pounds per gallon: it is gr.lded according to ~ flavor and sugar cOnlen!. The more desirable products, Gr.ldes AA and A, Me a light amber color and delicate flavor. Pure maple syrup is ex(X'nsil'e, Iu. does add a distinct fl avor to baked goods, frostings and, of course, pancakes and waffles. Maple-flavored syrups, often sClVcd with panca kes, are usually com S}ll¥ with artificial colorings and flavorings lIdded.
Molasses As mentioned earlier, molasses (Fr. metasse) is the liquid byproduct ofsup refining. Edible molasses is derived only from cane sugar, as bee! molassesbu an unpleasant odor and bitter flavor. Uuslllflll"ed lIIolasses is no! a true byprOOull of sugar making. It is intentionally produced from pure cane syrup and is preferred because of its lighter color and milder flavor. Sulfured mo/assts is I byproduct and contains some of the sulfur dioxide used in secondary sup processing. It is darker and has a strong, biller flavor. The final stage of sucrose refinement yields blacks/rap molasses, whid!. somewhat popular in the American South. Blackstrap molasses is vel}' did: and thick, with a strong, unique flavor that is unsuitable for mOSt purposes. Sorghum molasses is produced by cooking down the sweet sap of a \xoq corn plant, known as sorghum, which is grown for animal feed. The flavor and appearance of sorghum molasses are almost identical to unsulfured sugaraJr molasses.
Nutrition Sweeteners are carbohydrates. They are high in ca lories and contain no I'tbtt protein, fat, vitamin A or vitamin C. They contain only trace amounts oftfi. amin, riboflavin and niacin.
PRINCIPLES OF mE BAKESHOP
[\lllE
ru\j
29.3
J7"> NUTRITIONAl. VAI.UES 0' SElEcrrn SWEETENERS
:IS Noted
Carbohydrates
Sodium
(g)
(rug)
3<J
60
120 120 140
32
\tl~r.
lot
27
'\Ig:l.r, powdered, 1 oz. (28 g)
lOS lOS
28 28
UJ!Tl srrup, light, 2 lbsp. (30 ml) H;ny 2 "Jb..p. (30 ml)
\114''16, unsu!fufed. 2 TIl5p. (30 ml) mown, light, 1 oz. (28 g) ~r. granuiatL"(\, I oz. (28 g)
"wCor!lme
r
.\'t'/ZI!T Eflcyc/oped/(/
n,
34
of Food It,llIes 1992
CookillgSugar 'ugar on be incorpomted into a prepared item in its dry form or first Jique',00 inlO a syrup. Sugar syru ps (not to be confused with liquid sweeteners .;,d} as molasses) take two forms: simple syrups, which are mixtures of )(If and water, and cooked syrups, which are made of melted sugar cooked 001 it reaches a specific lemper.lture. Be extremely careful when working 111 a hot sugar syrup. Because sugar reaches very high tempemtures, it can -.e severe burns. Sill/pie Sugar SJ1rups ~le or stock syrups arc solutions of sugar and water. They are used in ,. bakeshop 10 moisten cakes and to make sauces, fruit sorbets, bunercreams llKI candied fruits. The symp's density or concentr.llion is dictated by its intended purpose. C41 w:lIcr will dissolve up (0 double its weight in sugar; heating the solution A'Ill:i denser, more concentmted syrups. A hydrometer, which measures spe,ik gravity and shows degrees of concentration on tile Baume scale, is the ::nq accurate guide to density. ~imple syrups can be prepared without the aid of a hydrometer, however. To nuke a simple sugar synlp, specific amounts of water and sugar are comtmI in a saucepan and brought to a boil. Once the solution boils, it is imfllIUnI not to stir, as this may cause recrysta llization or lumping. For successiii ~imple sugar syrups, the following formulas must be followed preCisely.
• Uglu s)'nLp-Boil 2 pans water with ! pan sugar for I minute. This concentration would measure 17°_20° on the Baume scale. A lighl syrup ("dn be used for making sorbet or moistening spongecake. • Medium syrup-Boil 1 pan sugar with 1 112 pans water for 1 minllle. This concentration would measure 21°_24° on Ihe Baume scale. A medium I)"J\JP can be used for omdying citrus peel. • Hl':l\1' syrup-Boil equal pans of water and sugar for 1 minute. This concentralion would measure 28°_30° on the Baume scale, and the solution ,hould be al 22QoF (104°C). Heavy S)'rup is a basic, all-purpose synlp kept on hlnd in many bakeshops.
Cooke" Sugars Car.lmel sauce, candy and other confections often need liquid sugar Ihal ,ill hare a cooked cammel navor or be firm when cool. For these purposes, gar needs to be cooked to temperatures far higher than simple syrups. A
Using a B:lllme hydrometer.
871
872 <"'\!I
c/WfER 29
small amount of water is generally added at the beginning to help the'lJ.1;.t dissolve evenly. As the mixture oo;ls, the water evaporates, the solution's temperature rises and irs density increases. The symp's concentration depends the amount of water remaining in the final solution: The less water, the Iuru: the syrup will become when cool. The sugar's temperature indicates irs concentration. If there is a great
Caramelizing sugar.
1. Always use a heavy, dean saucepan, preferably copper. 2. Stir the solution 10 make sure all sugar crystals dissolve before it rearhe:; I boiL Do not stir the solution after it begins ooiling. however. j. An interferent may be added when the solution begins (Q boiL Cream tartar, Vinegar, glucose (a monosaccharide) and lemon juice are known ~ interferents because they interfere with the formation of sugar C1ysub Some formulas specify which interferent to use, although most are used II such small quantities that their flavor cannot be detected. 4. Brush down the sides of the pan with cold water to wash off crystab!hl may be deposited there. These Sligar crystals may seed the solution. CJ ing more crystals (lumps) to form if not removed. Instead of using a bruit 10 wash away crystals, you Gill cover the pan for a few moments as m as the solution comes to a ooil. Steam will condense on the cover andnr, down the sides of the pan, washing away the crystals.
Brushing sugar crystals from the ~Kk of the pan. The concentration of sugar syrup should be determined with a candy tIk:r. mometer that measures very high temperatures. If a thermometer is not JI'J able, use the traditional but less accurate ice-water test: Spoon a few drop:; a the hot sug:lr into a oowl of very cold water. Check the hardness of the ~ sugar with your fingertips. Each stage of cooked sugar is named according t~ its firmness when cool-for example, soft ball or hard crack. Table 29.4 lists the variOliS stages of cooked sugar and the tempel':lture fa each. Each stage is also identified by the ice-water test result. Note Ihal 1'1(11 a few degrees makes a difference in the syrup's concentration.
PRINc/P~ OF 7711:.' BAf<EjUOP
tllll£ 29.4
J?> STAGES OF CooKED SUGAR
"'' ' ""'"
Tcmper:llure
lee-Water Test-One Drop:
2.WF (iIOOC) 2-10°F (l16°C)
Spins a 2-in. (;-cm) thread when dropped
::.oi\IhU frm Blll Ibrd Ball '
246°F (l19"C) 26O"F (125°C) 270"F (132°C) 300"F (I49"C)
Fonns a finn ball Forms a hard. compact ball Scpat:lle5 into a h~lrd, but not brinle, thread Scpar:lIcs into a hard, britde sheet
WtJllIe!
338°F (i70"C)
Liyuiu
'dl ooll stage.
Forms a soft ball
lul'll~
brvwll
Hard ball stage.
Fals FJI is the general term for bUlter, brd, shortening, oil and margarine. Fats pro\}Ie fla\'or :tnd color, add moisture and richness. assist with leavening, help extend a product'S shelf life :1I1d shorten gluten strands. The flavor and texture of a baked good depends on the type of fat used llld the m:mner in w hich it is incorporated w ith other ingredients. In past!)' OOughs. solid fat shortens or tenderizes the gluten strands; in bread doughs, fat
roeases loaf volume and lightness; in cake bauers, fat incorporates air bubIks and helps le:lVen the mixture. Fats should be selected based on their f1a1'01". melting point and ability to form emulsions. "OS! bakeshop ingredients combine completely wilh liquids; fats do not. flJ<; will nOi dissoh'e but will bre:lk do\"\'n into sntaller and smaller particles bough mixing. With proper mixing, these fat particles are distributed, more tr b f"I'enly, throughout the other ingredients. Ail-Purpose SIJOrlelling .my fat is :t shortening in baking because it shortens gluten strands and tenthe prodUd. What is generally referred to as shortening, however, is a !file of solid, white, gener-tlly f1:tvorless fat, specially formulated for baking. lhone-nings are made from animal fats and/or vegetable oils that are solidified IfIrough hydrogenation. These products are 100% fat with a relatively high mlt'lting point. Solid shortenings :lre ideal for greasing baking pans because 'he). are flavorless :lIlci odorless. ~
Hard crack slage.
.-tit
873
874
~.
ClW'l1!R 29
Emulsified Shortening Emulsifiers may be added to regular shonening to assist with moisture Xlsorption and retention as well as leavening. Emulsified shortenings. obIl known as high-ratio shonenings, are used in the commercial productioo II cakes and frostings where the fomlula cont:lins a large amount of sugar ~l formula calls for an emulsified shonening, use it. If you substitute any 00xr fat , the product's texture suffers.
Lard [..;,Ird (Fr. saine/oux) is rendered pork fat. It is a solid white produa d imost 100% pure fat; it contains only a small amount of water. Lard yield,) fbi1 flltVorful pastries, such as pie COISIS, but is rarely used commercially beaust it turns rancid quickly.
Butler and Margarine Butter is prized in the bakeshop for its flavor; however, it melts at a re1ati1d) low temperature of 93°F (33°C) and burns easily. Unsalted butter is preferredfll baking because it tends to be fresher, and addition:d salt might interfere I\'C product formulas. Margarine melts al :t slightly higher temperature than butkt making it useful for some rolled-in doughs such as puff pastry or danish. Fa detailed information on buller and margarine see Chaptcr 8, Dairy produCiS.
Oil Unlike butter and other fats, oil blends thoroughly throughout a mi.uure.) therefore coats more of the proteins, and the gluten strands produced are mudI shoner, a desirable result in fine-textured products such as muffins or chilfoo cakes. For baking, select a neutral-flavored oil unless the distinctive taste deb! oil is desired, as in some breads. Never substitute oil in a formula requiring J solid shonening. For detailed information on oil, see Chapter 7, Kitchen SUpb
Nu/rilion Fats are high in calories and contain varying Ic\'els of saturated fals. Although they have no carbohydrates, a few fats such as butter have trace amounij d protein and minerals. Buner is also high in vitamin A.
Thickeners Starches are often used as thickening agents in bakeshop products. ComstarrlL arrowroot and flour can be used as thickeners for pastry creams. sauces. CUY lards and fmit fillings. These thickeners are discussed in Chapter 10. Suns and Sauces.
TABLE
29.5
J'h NtrrRITIONAl VALm:s OF SELECTED FATS
TOial fat
Satur:lled fal (gJ
Cholesterol (mgJ
22.8 27.2
14.2
62
J.4
0
25.6
JO
22
4 2 6.4
"
Per 2 Thsp. (30 m])
Kcal
(g)
BUller. unsalted
200 24<) 23<) 200
100
12 25.6
Corn oil
Cud Margarine Margarine, diet Shonening, all-purpose
226
Th# Corinlle T A'elzer I:."lIcYc/OfX'ilffl oj F(J()(I Valm's 1991
0 0 0
..... I.., I 0 0
.. !fJJ 0
PRINClP/~ OF 11IE BAKESHOP
One of the most commonly used thickeners in the bakeshop is gelatin, a anual product derived from the animal protein collagen. II is a\'ailable in two krTm: granulated gelatin :md sheet (also called leaf) gelatin. A twO-Step JIOCe5S is neress.1l)' to use either foml: The gelatin muS! first be softened in a crllliquid, then dissolved in a hot liquid. Gr.l.nulated gelatin is available in bulk or in t!4-ounce (] grams or slightly Iss than 1 tablespoon) envelopes. One envelope is enough to set 1 pim c;oo milliliters) of liquid. Granulated geblin should be softened in a cool liquid for J Ie:tsr. five minutes, then heated gently to dissolve. The initial softening in a cr*lJiquid is necess.1ry 10 separate the gelatin molecules so that they will not bnp together when the hot liquid is added. Sheet or leaf gelatin is :lvaiJable in I-kilogram boxes, sometimes further packaged in five- or six-sheel envelopes. The sheets are produced in varying thkknesses and weights. They must be separated and soaked in ice water until \.e!")' SOfl, al least 15 minutes. They are then removed from the water and Wed into a hot liquid until completely dissolved.
PIiocI'DURF. FOR USING SHEET GElATIN
1. Gelatin sheets are submerged in ~ water for several minutes \0 soften.
2. Softened gelatin sheets are then removed from the ice water and incorporated into a hot liquid.
Gr:mu!ated and sheet gelatin can be substituted weight for weight in any formula. Sheel gelatin, though more expensive, is preferred for its lack of flavor md color. It also tends to dissolve more readily and evenly and has a longer
kif life than the granulated product. Once incorpoT"Jted into a product such as a Bavarian, gelatin can be frozen , llme-Ited and reset once or twice, without a loss of thickening ability. Because • scorches easily, gelatin and mixtures containing gelatin should not be alIJoI,td to boil. Although less commonly encountered in professional bakeshops, tapioca can lruse
F/ovol'ings limy spices :lOd flavorings are used in the bakeshop. The most popular spices Rrh as cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and aUspice are discussed in Chapter 7, lichen Staples. Here we discuss emulsions and extracts, vanilla, chocolate and nolic beverages.
Pearl Tapioca
,~
875
876
~
C/IAfYfER 29
Emulsions and Extracts Emulsions and extracts are liquid flavoring agents derived from various oil!. Emulsions are flavoring oils mixed into waler with the aid of emulsifm Lemon and orange are the mOSI common emulsions. Emulsions art' rrui stronger than extracts and should be used carefully and sparingly. Extracts are mixtures of flavoring oils and ethyl alcohol. Vanilla, alnmI and lemon are frequently used extraCtS. An extract may be made with purefb. voring oils or with artificial flavors and colors. Contents are regulated b)' dr FDA, and package labels must indicate any artificial ingredients. Emulsions and extrJcts are highly volatile. TIley should be stored in stUd containers in a cool area away from direct light.
Vanilla
Scraping seeds from the interior of a vanilla bean.
Vanilla (Fr. vanille) is the most frequ ently used flavoring in the bakeshop.' comes from the pod fndt , called a bean, of a vine in the orchid family, \'anII beans are purchased whole, individually or by the pound. They should bed and pliable, with a rich brown color and good aroma. The finest vanilla COOJ5 from Tahiti and Madagascar. To use a vanilla bean, cut it open lengthwise with a paring knife. Smpe out the moist seeds with the knife's tip and stir them into the mixture beq flavored. The seeds do not dissolve and will remain visible as small blad:« brown flecks. After all the seeds have been removed, the bean em be stCRd in a covered container with sugar to crC'Jte v:milla sugar. Vanilla beans should be stored in an air-tight container in a rod, daIt place. During storage, the beans may develop a white coating. This is III mold, but rather crystals of vanilla flavor known as vanillin. It should 00: Ir removed. Pure vanilla extract is an easy and less expensive way to give bakem:, produCtS a tme vanilla flavor. It is dark brown and aromatic, and comes in Sffo eral strengths referred to as folds. Each fold requires the extrad from 1J~ ounces of vanilla beans per gallon of liquid. A two-fold contains 26.7 OUIWlS per gallon, and a four-fold contains 40.5 ounces. Single-fold or two-fold aredr most commonly available; the stronger products are used only in manufamring. By law, any product labeled "vanilla extract" must not contain anificWfb. vorings and must be at least 35% alcohol by volume. Vanilla extract should be stored lit room temper.:uure in a closed, ~ container. It should not be frozen. Artificial or imitation vanilla flavoring is made with synthetic vanillin. AIt6cial flavoring is available in a clear form, which is useful for white buu~ where the dark brown color of pure vanilla extract would be undesirable. AIthough inexpensive, artificial vanilla is, at best, weaker and less aromatic m. pure extract. It can also impart a chemical or bitter taste to foods,
Chocolate Chocolate is one of the most-perhaps tbe most-popular flavoring f
Chocolate Production
the_
Chocolate (Fr, cbocolal) begins as yellow fmit pods dangling from and main branches of the tfopiclll cacao tree. Each pod contains 300ut 40 almond-sized cocoa beans, After the pods ripen , the beans are placed in dr
PRiNCIPlES OF mE BAKESHOP
c-1a.
877
for several days to dry and ferment. TIley are then cleaned, dried, cured lid roasted to develop fla vor and reduce biucrness. Next, the beans lire aushed to remove their shells, yielding the prized chocolate nib. ~ibs are shipped to manufllclurers worldwide where they can bc further Q:lSI.ed. TIley are crushed into a thick (nonalcoholic) paste known as choco· bit liquor or chocolate mass. Chocolate mass contains about 53% fa t, mown as cocoa butter. TIle chocolate mass is further refined depending on me desired producl. If cocoa powder is to be produced, virtually all the (IX(l3 butter is removed. A variety of other products are crea!(.-
========= ~ FRoM CtDtO TO
To underst:Uld the history of chocolate, a
dI!f or chocoholic must first understand the Inbmental dilfel'l.'llre beMfn its original use .1 ~ and its later lran>ifonnation into
loody. 11£ cacao ~ (called IlJrobroma cacao, _ng '1000 of the gods") originated in the ,'aile,/,0; ci South America and 'NaS carried .what is neM' Mexico by the Mayans before W7th rentury A. D. It w:tS cultivated by MayrulS, ita aM TollOOi not only as a sourre of food lid 2Iso:l'i rurrency. Chocolate was consumed df :ti a treasured drink. Cacao berulS were _ crushro to a paste illld steeped in water, lin Ihidm?d with com flour to create a cold, IIItr beImge. Sometimes honey, l':lI1il1a or IjUs, including chiles, ""'ere added. The Azt6:: ...ror Montezuma was so enillllored with the . . thai he reportedly consumed 50 cups ItdlmeaI. Columbll'i brought cacao beans to Spain i::rn his fourth voyage to the New World in 1~. (TIle rommon tenn ClXXXI is actually a ~ Eurqlean mispronuociatioll 01 the fiqItf \emt mctI() , caused by confusion with mber New World delicacy, the coconut.) But m 21l years passed before Spanish conquisIIbs, 100 by Cortez, understood the beans' . . With Montezuma's encouragement, I'.o:Ie1 and his soldiern slowly acquired a taste irtt.! bitter beverage, spurred on by the intox· rIing effeCIs of caffeine. CUtez's most important contribution to the Iiklr! of chocolate was to take beilllS witil him IlI!nhe left Mexico. He planted them all tile is1m he pa$ed on his retunl to Spain: TIInIbl Haiti and Fernando Po, from which iIl!giant African COCO:t industry grew. TIIr'Ough l'.«Iez's far-sighted efforts, Spain controlled all
*"
==========
CHocoun
CHIPS
aspects of ti'll! cocoa trade until well into the 18th century. TI'Ie Spanish began drinking chocolate at home during the 16th rentury. It was usually mixed with tv.l) other expensil~ imports, sugar and lI1U1il1a, ruld frotiled with a carved woolen sv.izzle stick knovm as a molinel. This tilick, cold drink was made from tablets of crushed cocoa beans produced illld sold by monks. The Spilllish belie>.'I'!d that cocoa cured all ills and supplied limitiess stamina. [n the early 17th rentury, COCO:t be\'!~rages, now ser...trl hot, crept into FI':lI'Ire via royal marriages. ('.ocoa spread tilroUgh the rest of Europe by different routes. The Dutch, who had poached on Spanish trade routes for maJl)' )-ears, e'o-en.
O1otx!/ole Chtf, JY:/Ifpfed by Pf/SJry ON( Rubin
'"'"
tually realized the value of tile unusual beans they found on Spanish ships. Holland soon became tile most important COCO:t port outside of Spain. From there, a 10\'e of COCO:t spread to Gennany, Scandina\ia and Italy. In 1655, Eng· lillid acqUired Jamaica illid its own cocoa plilli' tatiOllS. Until the Industrial Re'o'Olution, cocoa was made by hand using mortar and pestle or stone·grinding disks to crush the cocoa nibs. By tile 1700s, cocoa factories had opened through· out Eu~. lames Baker openOO the first cocoa factory in the United States in 1765. Conrad I'llll Houten, a Dutch chemist, patented "chocolate powder" in 1825. His '-"'Ork marked the beginning of a shift from drinking 10 eating chocolate. [t also paved the way for everything 1I"e know as chocolate tooay. Van Houten developed a screw pl't5S that removed most of the cocoa butter from ti'le bean, lea\ing a brown, fla~1' JlIMtIer, essentially the same sub· stanre as modem cocoa JIOI"'rler. E\-entually, it was discovered that the exIra cocoa butter resulting from the production of cocoa poy.'der could be added 10 ground beans to make the paste more malleable, smoother and more tolerant of added sugar. ,1Je English finn of Fry and Sons introduced the first eating chocolate in 1847. Their recipe was the same then as today: crushed cocoa beans, cocoa but· ter and sugar. In 1876, Swiss chooolatier Daniel Peter in· \"ented solid milk chocolate using the new con· densed milk created by baby food manufacturer Henri Nestl€. Pennsylvania cocoa millmfacturcr Milton IIeJShey introduced his milk chocolate baJS in 1894, foll(W,'e(\ by Hershey's Kisses in 1907. Nestl€ Foods introduc::cd the chocolate chip, perfect for cooki!S, in [939.
878
,~.
ClWy]'J.)l 29
~
M EIIINC CIIOCOfA11i
1\\1) important rules for melting chocolate: I. Chocolate must )le'o'er exa!ed 120°F
or
there \Io;lI be a loss of f1:W{)[ 2. Water-e.'eIl a drop in the fonn of steam -must JlC\'er touch the chocolate. When a droplet of water enters melted chocolate, the chocolate becomes lumpy (a process called seizing). 1here must be a minimum of [tablespoon w:!ter per ounce of chocolate to keqlthiS from happening. If seizing does occur, the addition of fal such as I'cgct
undislUrbed. RemOl'e chocolate from tile heat source when it reaches I!5"F as the temperature may continue 10 rise, and stir \igorously to pm'ffll OI'erheating and 10 distribute dle cocoa butter e\'eflly. Always melt chocolate uncO\-eret! as moisture could condense on tile lid, dql b:ICk in Ihe chocolate, and cause seizing. -from nUi Cwi BIIJlE. by ROSE I.EW BERANIWIM
more cocoa butter, sugar, milk solids and fl:lvorings to the choco13tt" ~ Most manufacturers of fine chocolates use the Swiss technique of conchioa ~ increase smoothness. Condling involves stirring large vats of blended cfxxu. late with a heavy rolle r o r paddle to smooth out sugar crystals and mellow dr flavo r, a process that may last from a few hours to three days.
Tasting Chocolates
I,.
There are two Iypes of chocolate beans: a very hardy, abundant African riety used as a base bean, and a vcry flavorful , arolllatic variety from Cau RiGI used for flavo r. Unlike wine or coffee, you emnot taste processed m:xu. late and tell which beans were used. All chocolates are blends. createdb)"M manufacturer to be unique yet consistent. Roasting greatly affects the final flavor of chocolate. Generally, German am Sp:mish manufacturers use a high (or strong) roast; Swiss and Amerian mak· ers use a low (or mild) roast. Refining is also a matter of nalional l:IS(C. Swiss and German chocolate iI the smoothest, followed by English chocolates, American chocolate is nOOctably more grainy. Chocolate quality is actually the product of sever::11 factors besides naror, AI these factors should be eva luated when select ing chocolates:
1. Appear.mce--color should be even and glossy, without :my discolornWL 2. Smell-should be chocolatey with no off-odors or staleness. 3. I3reak-should snap cleanly without crumbling. 4. Texture-should melt quickly and evenl}' on the tongue,
Uusweeteued Cboco/ate Unsweetened chocolate is pure hardened chocolate liquor without O/IJ added sugar or milk solids. It is freque ntly used in baking and is ~ referred to as "baking chocolate." Unsweetened chocolate is approxim31l'1r 53% cocoa butter and 47% cocoa solids. Its flavor is pure and chocolate)', Iu the llbsence of sugar makes it vinually inedible as is.
Bittersweet (Iud Semisweet Cbocolfltes Both bittersweet and semisweet chocol:nes contain al least 35% chocobte liquor plus additional cocoa butter, sugar, flavorings and sometimes emulsifiers. Gener.tlly, semisweet chocolate will be sweeter Ihan biuersweet chocolate, but there are no precise defi nitions, so fl:!vor and sweetness will 11I'!' from brand to brand. Both are excellent eating chocol:nes and C"JIl usuaU)' It substituted measure for measure in any formula.
Sweet Chocolate Government standards require th:n sweet chocolate contain nOi less Ibm 15% chocolate liquor and varying amounts of sugar, milk solids, na\'oringsw emulsifiers. As Ihe name implies, sweet chocolate is sweeter, and thus leis chocolatey, than semisweet chocolate.
Milk Clxxolate The favorite eating chocol:ue in the United States is milk chocolate. [t cootains sugar. vanilla , perhaps other fl:lI'orings and. of course, milk solids. milk solids Ihat make the chocolate milder and sweeler than OIher choc-olato also make it less suitable for b:lking purposes. 1)0 not substitute milk ch0colate for dark chocolate in ;lny product that must be baked, as the milk solidi tend to burn. If melted slowly :Hld carefully, milk chocolate Cln be II5t'd in glazes, mousses or cand ies.
nr
PRINCIPLES OF niB fJ.A.KESIfOP
. 879
Cocoa Powder lk brown powder left :tfter the fat (Coco.1 butter) is n:mol'ed from cocoa beans is known as ccena powder. tOOes not contain any swccteners or flavorir:gs and is pd~'used in baked goods. Alkalized or Dutch-processed (('OJ. powder has been treated with an alkaline solution, .J.dJ as potassium carlxmate, to mise the powder's pH 100\ 5.5 to 7 or 8. Alkalized powder is darker and milder n nonalkalized lX)wder ,md has a reduced tendency lump. Either can be USt'(\ in baked goods, however. Cocoa Bulter Chocol:lte liquor is approximately 53% cocoa butter. Cocoa butter has long been prized for its resistance to r.lllCidity and its lise as a cosmet ic. Cocoa butter has a It!)· precise melting pOint, just below lxxly temperature. f1f'le chocolatiers lISC higb percentages of cocoa butler kl gilc their chocolates rnelt-in-the-mollth quality.
Clockwise fromloll'er lefl, semisU'ccl chips, disks ofc/XX:Oklte liquor, block 0fbifterswccl chocofate, block ofll/ilk cixx:ol(lte, (/isMs ofwbile cboco/ale, alkalized COC()(I/)()u't/er.
lIhile Cbocolale This i\'ol)'-rolored substance is nOl the product of an albino cocoa bean. It is aauaUya confectionary product that does not coma in any chocol:tte solids or iqJor, ITIlUS it c:mnOl I~ labeled "chocolate in the United States.) The fi nest rhik' chocolates contain COCo..1 butter, sug:lr, milk solids, vanilla or other fla (l'" Other prodUCLS replace all or part of the cocoa butter with vegetable oils. ~confectionary products will be less expensive than those conlaining pure 1A1XI butter, but their flavor and texture will be noticeably inferior. While dn:oote melts :It a lower temperature th:1Il dark chocolate and burns easily, It ~excellent for eating :Ind candy making but is less often used in baked goods. Imitatioll Cboco/ale A less-expensive product substituted in many prepared foods, imitation In.-ohl1c is made with veget:lble oils instead of cocoa butter. TIle resulting j1tXluct melts at a higher temperature, Products containing imitation chocolate .JxJuld be labeled "chocolate flavored. " \'II/fitioll Chocobtes arc high in C:l lories and fat. They contain minim:ll amounts of iUmin A and trace amounts of other vitamins as well as some sodium, phos~. potassium and other miner::tls.
TIBlE
29.6
. I.ro:
.R>
(28-g)
NUTRITIONAL VAWfS OF SELECTED CHOCOlATES
unil
Iltocol:l1e, ..... mi~wl't.1 chip.'
Protein
Carhohydmtcs
Total f:u
Kc-.I1
(gl
(g)
(gl
Sodium (mg)
(50
2
(S
8
0
«0
3
9
<S
0
(2()
7 2 2
<3 27 <S
4
<0
12
;;
s.:-.tli:'s)
a....ollll', ul'\Swcetcnt.'d fukl'r',)
IA'OJ powder (He~hcy's) I k chocolate (Hc(1;hey's) \'h~e chocolate (r-.:est]c·s) l>ICorillll('
r
(50 (60
Nelzer /:'I/cyc/opl'd/(j of Food l'alIlLOS
/[)9]
<0
-,,-
880
<"'i!I...
C/WYfF.R 29
To TF.MPER
~ ===== OR N OT ro TEMPER
The number-one mystique that surrounds chocolate has to do with tempering. From the ~n maker and pastry chefs point of \liew. I take a radical position: I do not think it is neee;sary or practical to temper. But what are \\'e talking about anyway? Briefly, tempering is a prore;s of slOO'! y raising and !O\\"ering the temperJture of melted chocolate, stirring constantly, until the complex fat crystals in the cocoa butter stabilize and "behave" in concert \\1th each other. AI a cool room temperature, chocolate thaI has been tempered will dry rapidly 10 a hard lUld shiny piece that breaks with a snap. It shrinks slightly as it dries, enabling it 10 release easily from a mold. Atempered chocolate piece keeps at room temperature for months \\1thool losing its luster or snap. Any bar of chocolate thai you purchase 10 eat or 10 melt has been tempered. Once melted or e>.-posed 10 heal, h<1,\'e'o-er, it 1
\\-i ll dry slowly. at room temperawre, almost cake)' texture. It \loill stick mold. Untempered chocolate ..·t,...,"..... is, it becomes dull and <1.,10; N ;, " " "
mottled appearance----unless it is immediately. Candy makers almost chocolate they usc. BUI desse;'n;;;;"-~;ii need to temper. There is no reason
the chocolate used in cake and torte buuercrearns, true
law thai will be stored in the consumed qUickly need not be Chocolate glazes, properly h",n>« ,..... quire tempering to remain shiny life of !he dessert.
""mpe.m
Storing Chocolate All chocolates should be stored at :I cool, consistent temperature, a'1f from strong odors and moisture. Dark chocolate, white chocolate and COC\1 powder can be kept for up to one year without loss of fla vor. Milk ch0cd2 will not keep as well because il contains milk solids. Chocolate may develop grayish-white SpolS during storage. This is caBcd bloom; it results from Ihe migration of cocoa butter crystals to Ihe swfxt when temperatures change. Bloom will not affect the fl avor or function d chocolate and will disappear when the chocolate is melted.
Alcobolic Beverages Uquo r-all alcdxJl;c; Mmlge mnde by distil/-
illg graills, l-egeIobkf or «her joods; ;lIdl/tles rum, u-bisJtey alld Ivdhi. Uqucur-a strollg, suW!f, S)"'1{Iy a/colx:Jlic beverage lIIat/e by lIIixi11g or retJi.rJJ1lillg lleulml spirits u'ilb jnlils, jIoum, herbs, spires or oIher jltll"Ori1lgs; also 1110/1.11 as a rorrlia/. Wine-all alcdxJlk; M'tragt 1IIfl(/e from lbe jer7llelll«1juia of grlipt!; 1/1(1)' be sparkling (efjm'f!SCl'tll) or slill (lIomf/ert'fSCt!111) or fortifi«J 1/1~b (ldtlilicll(l/ (l1robo/. BrandY- f1ll alroholic oo-emge mfl(k by dis/illill8 1/.111/J or lbe jerlllt'fl/«1 IIII/Sh oj grlipeS or oIher fruits.
Uquors, liqueurs, wines and brandies are frequently used fl avorings in dr bakeshop. Rum is a popular flavoring liquor because it blends well "ithalrr fla vors such as chocolate and coffee. Liqueurs are selected for their specific IJa. vors: for example, kirsch for cherry, amaretlO for almond, Kahlful for cdkt. creme de cassis for black current and creme de cacao for chocolate. Thq'. used to either add or enhance flavors. Wine, both still and sparkling. is mal as a flavoring (for example, in sabayon sauce) or as a cooking medium lu example, pears poached in red wine). Brandy, especially the classic orqrfl avored Grand r-,·Iarnier, is another common bakeshop flavoring. Brand)' cat plements fruits and rounds off the fl,lvor of custards and creams. When selecting an alcoholic beverage for baking, make quality roo fill concern. Only high-quality products will enhance the fl:lvor and aCOrn:! of)UI' baked goods.
PRINCIPLES OF mE BAKESIIOP c""'O!\.
MIXING METHODS .n-, Mimportant step in the production of all baked goods is the mixing of in,roients. The techniques used to mix or combine ingredients affcct the baked pxI's final volume, 3PlX!arance and texture. There are several mixing methcds: beating, blending, creaming, cutting, folding, kneading, s ifting,
881
8eating-ligorously agikllingj"oods 10 incmporaJe air or den!lop gilllen; use (I spoon or eI«:Jric mixer u"ilb its padilJe (llliIcbmenl. Ble ndlng- miring /u"() or more ingredients unlil er"ffl/y dislribulf'tl; use a spoon, TUbber !{XlIulll, U"bisA or eIecIric miwr u"ilb ill padiDe alltJcb..
lining and whipping. These terms are used throughout this part of the text,
m{'1l1.
especially in procedure discussions and formulas. Use the designated mixing
Creaming-tigoroust'y rombhling 1m alld sugar u-bile fncorporaling air; lise 1m eI«:Jric mifer ullb its {XIi1dJe af/acbml'1ll 011 medium
IIttbod as well as the appropriate equipment or tool to ensure a good-quality ilished product.
"""'.
Culting-incOIpcraling soJidfill illlo dry mgretiienls Ollly /I11H//llmps oj lbe desired size re"lIIin; lise /XIS1ry C/illers, fillgers or all eJedric miret' u.ilh iIs paddle (II/acbm/!I/I.
THE BAKING PROCESS .n-, Baked goods are made from doughs and batters. A dough has a low water (OOten!. TIle water-protein complex known as gluten forms the continuous
medium into which other ingredients are embedded. A dough is usually prepared by beating, blending, cutting or kneading and is often stiff enough to into various shapes.
11oldlllg-very gelllly illrorporalillg illgrediellls, Sl/cb lIS dry ingrediellls u:ilh whipped@; use a nt/;her spalllln.
Kneading-u!()rkIf18 a dougb /0 det'flnp gllllen; bands or an ekcIric mixer u:i/b its dough booR. If (hll/! by balld, lbe (hugb must be t:igorously and npl!afedJy foIderl alld lumed in a rb)'lbmic pat/em. lise
A baner generally contains more fat, sugar and liquids than a dough. Sifling--fJt'Uf/'ng ()tie or mort dry mgrerlie1l/.s Ibrougb a Irire mesh 10 rt!tIl()t'l! lumps, rombine development is minimized and liquid forms the continuous medium in atl(l aerole il/grerlie1/ts; I~ a roIory or drum tbich OI:her ingredients are disbursed. A batter bakes into softer, moister and sifter or mesh slrai,,". Dlre crumbly products. A batter is usually prepared by blending, creaming, Stirring-gt'Ill/y miring mgrtdienls wllil Dring or whipping and is geneidlly thin enough to pour. biellfied; use a S/XJOII, u:bisk or ntbber spalulll. The changes Ihal occur in a dough or baller as il bakes seem mysterious complex. A pourable liquid becomes a tender, light cake; a sticky mass Whlpplng-bfflling dgorously to fncorpcrale use a u'bislt or all rleclric mixer u:ilb its u·bip !rcomes soft, chewy cookies; a soft, elastic dough becomes firm, crusty air; atmanterll. French bread. Vet the same physical changes that occur during baking cause II these results. Namely, gases form and are tr".lPped within the dough or bitter; starches, proteins and sugars cook; fats melt; moisture evaporates and I121ing begins. By learning to control these changes, you are also learning to control the Iml product. Comrol can be exerted in the selection of ingredients and the methods by which those ingredients are combined, as well as the baking temperature and duration.
~ Fol'm Alxiked good's final texture is determined by the amount of leavening or rise IIIw occurs boIh before and during baking. This rise is caused by the gases in the dough or bauer. TIlesc gases are carbon dioxide, air and steam. and carbon dioxide are present in doughs and batters before they are . Other gases are fonned when heat is applied. For example, steam is as the moisture in a dough is heated; yeast and baking powder rapidly I carbon dioxide when placed in a hot oven. These gases then and leaven the product. Additional information on baking powder and soda is found in Chapter 30, Quick Breads; additional information on found in Chapler 31 , Yeast Breads.
882 ,"'0. CHAYfHR 29
Gas~ Are Trapped The stretchable network of prolCins created in a baiter or dough 'ilh" b"
proteins or gluten traps gases in the product . Without an 'PI,ropri,,,,,nt'" of proteins, the gases would just escape without C'dusing the mixture to tit
Starch~ Gelatinize When starch granules reach a temperature of approximately 14Q°F absorb additional moisture-up to 10 times their own weight-and TIlis comributes to the haked goO(I'.~ stnJClure.
Proteins Coagulate Gluten and dairy and egg proteins begin 10 coagulate (solidify)
dough or batter reaches a temperature of 160°F (7 10C). This process most of the baked good's stnlcture.
Proper baking temperatures are important for controlling the point at proteins coagulate. If the temperdture is tOO high, proteins will Soli,d ;h'''' the gases in the product have expanded fully , resulting in a produa texture and volume. If tbe temperature is too low, gases will e~.~, Ixl",. proteins coagulate, resulting in a product tl1m may collapse.
Fats Melt fats melt , steam is released and fat droplelS are dispersed IhnJUgI"". product. These fat droplets COOt the l>lareh (flour) g ....Jnules, thus and tenderizing the product by keeping the gluten strands short. ShoJtenif melt at different tempcralUres. It is important to select a fat with the jXqD' melting point for the product being prepared. AI;
Water Evaporat~ Throughout the baking process, the water contained in the liquid ingredS will turn to steam and evaporate. 111is steam is a useful Jeavener. As steaml released, the dough or bailer dries out , starting from the outside, result~1 the formation of a enlsl.
TABLE
29.7 .-.
Leavening Agent Air
LEA""" ING AGE~"fS IN BAKED GOODS Present in
All productS, especi:llly Ihose comaining
whipped cggs or creamed fat SIC"dm Carbon Dioxide
All products whcn liquids evapOrJlc or fats melt products COntaining baking soda, baking powder, b:lking ammonia or yeasl
PRINc/P/liS OF mE fJAKESIIOP
Sugars Caramelize As sugars are healed above Ihe boiling point. they caramelize, adding flavor IX! C3using the product to darken. Sugars arc found in eggs, (biry products 100 olher ingredients, nO! just in refined sugar and liquid sweeteners.
Carryover Baking the physical changes in a baked good do not StOP when il is removed from !be o\"en. The residual heat contained in a produd continues the baking pocess as the produa cools. Thai is why a cookie or biscuit may seem a bit uOOetbaked when removed from the oven; it will finish baking as il cools.
is a change in a baked good's texture and aroma caused by both mois-
I
and changes in the structure of (he starch granules. Stale products 105\ [heir fresh aroma and are firmer. drier and morc crumbly than fresh SUling is nOt just a general loss of moisture inlo the atmosphere, it is also Idtinge in the location and distribution of water molecules within the prodICI. This process, known as starch retrogradation, occurs as starch mole0Ifs cool, becoming more dcnse :md expelling moisture. In bre:tds. this moisture migr:ues from the interior to the drier crust, caus~ the cruSt to become tough and leathery. If the product is not well mpped, moisture will escape completely into the surrounding air. In humid OIIfu",fIS, unwrapped bread cmsts absorb moisture from the atmosphere, reliking in the same loss of crispness. The flavor and texture of breads can be C\iwd by reheating them to approximalely 140°F (60°C), the temperature at starch gelatinization occurs. Usually, products can be reheated only I"" ,,;;,hou, causing addition.. l quality loss. The tetrograd,ltion process is temperature-dependent. It occurs most rapidly temperatures of .. pproximately 40°F (4°C). Therefore, baked products nOi be refrigerated unless they contain perishable components sLlch as nlll,;ngs. It is better to store products frozen or aI room temperature. Products containing fats and sugars, which retain moisture, tend to stlty ,,"!Ior'ger. Commercial bakeries usually add chemical emulsifiers or gums to staling, but these additives are not practical for small-scale production.
0.",
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT .n-. beginning cook, you may find the tools of the bakeshop a bit complex . . the tools required for a professional palisserie are quite specialized. A dloonded chef need nOl be concerned with possessing cvery gadgct availbut should recognize and be familiar with most of the items shown in 29.1. Although many of these hand tools will make a task easier, most be improvised hy a creative chcf. Sevcral of the items shown, such as the ..worm pans, tanlet pa ns and petit four molds, are used for shaping or batters and doughs. The various spatulas are used for spreading icings 111C piping tools and cakc comb arc used for decorating and finling I"ked goods.
, 883
884
~
ClWYJ'fiR 29
FIGURE 29.1 Clockwise]rom center ixlCk, cake tllnllable, C(lke /Xtns,frlll ring, larlItt pans, clIIlIJoIijonns, ct/ke comb, offset SpatllltlS,jlat C(lke spatlllll, blmkJQr sIasbi,,!
bretlds, fhu'eI'1Iail, rectallgll/ar tart/et /Xms, pipillg bag mil/Ups, metal spatllla, tItJtP culter, roIli1lg Pill, spn'1IgJorm /Xtll, COpper sligar pot (Oil cooIi1lg mck), lIest ofTOIIIIi
cutters
When purchasing tools :lnd equipment, look for quality and durability. AI your baking skills grow, so will your equipment selection. Bakeshop ovens m:ly be conventional, convection or steam injection nnJ. els. Convection ovens can reduce cooking time, but the air currenl5 Illl)'cimage delicate products such as spongeca ke or puff p:~stry. Steam injection O',t1li use conventional heat flow but allow the baker to auton1aticJlly addstearntl the cooking chamber as needed to produce crisp-crusted breads. Although a· pensive, steam injection ovens lIre a necessity for commercial bakeries alii most larger restaurant and hotel bllkeshops. Baking instructions in the {... ing chapters are based on the use of a conventional oven. If a conl'eaionOltt is used instead, remember that the temperature and baking time mar need ~ be reduced.
tfioNCLUSION .N--, Of the many stations of the kitchen, the bakeshop often requires the ffiOS(((Oscientious attention to detail. The correct use of flour, thickeners. sugar. fa chocolate and other flavorings is essential. During preparation and 00", doughs and batters go through many physical changes. One of the most it ponant is the development of gluten, the elastic network of wheal praeo
PRINCIPLES Of' 7111:.' BAKESlIOP <"'\!\...
C!t'3ted when doughs and batters are prepared, which gives baked goods body aOO structure. You should understand the changes baked goods undergo and M to control or adjust them as needed.
!1UES770NS FOR DiSCUSSiON .n-, I What is gluten? How is it produced, and why is it important in the preparation of baked goods? 1 Discuss four functions of sugar and other sweeteners in baked goods. 1 Describe several steps that e m be taken to prevent crystals from forming in sugar solutions. 4. Describe the effect of fat on gluten stmnds. Why is fat an important ingredient in baked goods? 5. Explain the difference between chocolate liquor and semisweet chocolate. Can these two types of chocolate be used interchangeably in most recipes? Explain your 3nswer. ~ Us! and describe the nine steps in the b3king process. ~ Same several specialized hand tools or p3ns often used in the bakeshop. What are the differences between a steam injection oven, a convection a.·en and a conventional oven? Why might you select one type of oven ol"er another?
885
HAPTER
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=== ~ ==
uttermilk biscuits, h/Ilebeny muffins, ballo/W-I/I bread and Cll17m1f scones are all quick breads. \Vby they are callti quick breads is obvious: '!bey are quick to make and quick to bait use chemical leavening agents \'(lith only a/ew basic ingredients and no yeast, almost {lllyfoodstrproperly vice operation can provide its customers with fresh muffins, biscul prepare a variety of quick breads using the biscuit method, scones, loaf breads and griddlecakes. The van'ety of il1grediellts is vi,111ally limitless: commeal, u'IxJr muffin method and crcJl ming method wheat, intil5, nuts, spices and vegetables all yield poPlllar prrxluca. And the use of these products is 1/ot limited to breakfast seroice; I~ are equally appropriate for hlllCh, snacks and bllffets.
After studying this chapter, you will be able to: c"'\!\..
~
CHEMICAL LEAVENING AGENfS ..m--, Quick breads are made with chemical leavening agents, principally bakq soda and baking powder. TIlis sets them apan from breads that are made ,,.. yeast and require additional time for fermentation and proofing. undrotmIing how chemical leavening agents operate is essemialto successfully prtW:. ing quick breads. Chemical leavening agents release gases through chemical reactions ~ tween acids and bases contained in the formu la. These gases fonn bu~1I air pockets throughom the dough or batter. As the proouCl bakes, the 00;: or batter sets around these air pockets, thus giving the quick bread i15 rise aIIIi texture.
Baking Soda
== ~ == MODEIlN SCIENCE
Sooium bicarbonate (NaHCO,) is more commonly known as household bat. ing soda. Baking soda is an alkaline compound (a base), which releasesarbon dioxide gas (C0-J if both an add and moisture are present. Heat is III necessary for this reaction to OCcur. TIlerefore, prooucts made with b3kq soda must be baked at once, before the carbon dioxide has a chance to escape from the batter or dough. Adds commonly used with baking soda are buttermilk, sour cream, Iem:a juice, honey, molasses and fresh fmit. Generally, the amount of baking sail used in a fonnula is only the amount necessary 10 neutralize the adds presea If more leavening action is needed, baking powder, nOi more baking nil. should be used. Too much baking soda causes the product to taste soaJ1ill" biner; it may also cause a yellow color and brown spots to develop.
The practice of mixing an acid and an alkali 10 Jea\'efl bread began,
appropriatel), enough, during the Industrial Revolution, a period of rapid development in scientific thought and technological ability. The first commercial le3\~nelS ....~re mmeted in [850.
Baking Powder Baking powder is a mixture of sodium bicarbonate and one or more acd. generally cream of tartar (KHC"H40 iJ and/or sodium aluminum sulfa (Na2S04 . Al 2[SOJ'). Baking powder also contains a starch to prevent lum;q and balance the chemical reactions. Because baking powder contains txxh dr acid and the base necessary for the desired chemical reaction, the quick lm:I
QUICK BREADS ~
formula does not need to contain any acid. Only moisture is necessary to in-
m the release of gases.
There are two types of baking powder: single-acting and double-acting. An
excess of either type produces undesirable flavors, textures and colors in OOked products. Single-acting baking powder rek rely 00 double-acting baking powder. Both baking soda :lOd baking powder are sometimes used in one formula. This is because baking soda can release CO2 only 10 the extent that there is also an acid present in the formula . If the soda/acid reaction alone is insufficieru 10 leaven the product, baking powder is needed for additional leavening.
Baking Ammonia Baking anunonia (ammonia bicarbonate or ammonia carbonate) is also used as agent in some baked goods, primarily cookies and crackers. Bak~ anunonia releases ammonia and carbon dioxide very rapidly when heated. ~ is suitable for low-moisture products with large surface areas that are baked • high temperarures, such as crackers. Consequentl}', it is rarely used in quick Imds.
J leal"ening
Purchasing and Storing Purchase chemical leaveners in the smallest unit appropriate for your operaIiln. Although a large ca n of baking powder may cost less than several small
mes, if not used promptly the contents of a larger container can deteriorate, Clusing waste or unusable baked goods. ChemiCllleavening agents should always be kept tightly covered. Not only ithere a risk of contamination if left open, but they can also absorb moisture frtxn the air and lose their effectiveness. They should be stored in a cool place, as heal deteriorates them. A properly SlOred and unopened container of bakiIg powder or baking soda has a shelf life of approximately one year.
METHODS ~
..p.?-,
breads are generally mLxed by either the biscuit method, the muffin
.moo or the creaming method.
hit Method The biscuit method is used for biscuits, shortcakes and scones and is very simto the technique used to mlt ke flaky pie doughs. TIle goal is to create a Ilked good that is light, flaky and tender.
•
889
890
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ClW'Th'R 30
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING PRODUCTS WITH TIlE B,SCU,T MErHOD 1. Measure all ingredients. 2. Sift the dry ingredients together. 3. Cut in the fat, which should be in a solid form. 4. Combine the liquid ingredients, induding any eggs. 5. Add the liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients. Mix just unti1the
ingredients are combined. Do not overmix, as this causes toughness and inhibits the product's rise. 6. Place the dough on the bench and knead it lightly iO or 15 times (aboot 20--30 seconds). The dough should be soft and slightly elastic, but not sticky. Too much kneading toughens the biscuits. 7. The dough is now ready for makeup and baking.
MAKEuP OF B,SCU,T Mb'THOD PRODUCTS 1. Roll out the dough on a floured surface to a thickness of 1/2 to 3/4 inch
(1.25 (0 1.8 centimeters). Be careful to roll it evenly. Biscuits should doulW in height during baking. 2. Cut into the desired shapes. Cut straight down; do not twistlhe cutlers, as this inhibits rise. Space ruts as close together as possible 10 minimize scraps.
""""" = = = = == B ISCllfTS AND SCONES: A CENEALOGY
Biscuit is a French word used to describe any dIy, flat cake, whether sweet or savory. It was, perhaps, originally coined to describe twice-baked cake'l (bis := twice + cuit = cooked). Crusader chronlcle'l, for example, mention soldiers eating a "bread called 'bequis' because it is cooked twice·· and still, today, the Reims biscuit is returned to lhe oven for further baking afrer it is remol'E!d from its tin. ()I~r the centurie'l, the French began to use the term biscuil generically and appended modifiers 10 identify the particular type of dsy, flat cake. for example, a biscuil de guerre was the I'€ry hard, barely risen product of flour and water used from the time of the Crusades to the era of Louis XIV as an anny ration (guerre is Freoch for war); biscuil de Savoie is a samry spongecake; biscuil de plili.s:serre is a SI\'e€t biscuit.
To the 8ritish, a biscuit is v.'hat ~ call a cracker or cookie. Yet there aweaBlllI no 8ritish quick bread quite oomparabiellllie American biscuit-the closest relatil'e"" be the scone. But because ascone oontainl!fl and butter, it is much richer than abim Elizabeth Alston, in Biscuits (llId.proposes that the biscuit is an American m ant of the scone. She theorizes thai ~ British colonists in America brought lIith_ traditional scone recipes. Unable 10 find 11'. ford the necessasy fresh butter and ~_ practical bakers substituted lard ilnlmM the eggs. What they created, ~l!I; mock soones, but rather a ne.I' pnx!oct." enl from scones but still delicious. Al:sioo .. !her speculates that French cooks iniIiIIr called the new American prodllCl "bi9:ui* something" and e'o'efltually ~ !be .. something."
8.
QUICK BREWS
c"'2\.,
1 Position the biscuits on a lightly greased or paper-lined sheet pan. If placed with sides nearly touching. the biscuits will rise higher and have softer sides. Place farther apart for crusty sides. f. Scraps may be rerolled one lime without ovenoughening the produo. To do so, press the dough together gently; do nOt knead. " Tops may be brushed with egg wash before baking or with melted butler afier Ixlking. B.1ke immediately in a hOt oven. , Cool the finished products on a wire rack.
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 30.1
COUNTRY BISCUITS Yield: 36 Biscuits AlI·purpose nour Sail Granulated sug:lr Baking powder l'nsahed buner. cold \!ilk
Method: Biscuit 2 lb. 8 oz.
3/4 oz.
1.2 kg 21 g
2 oz. 2 oz.
60g 60g
14 oz. Ilb.80z.
400 g nOml
t Sift the dry ingredients together, making sure they arc blended thoroughly. 1. un in the buller. nle mixture should look mealy; do not overnlLx. 1 Add the milk and stir, combining only until the mixture holds together. , Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface; knead until it forms one mass. approximately 5 or 6 kneadings. " Rollout the dough to a thickness of 1/2 inch (l.25 centimeters). Cut with 3 floured cutter and place the biscuits on a paper-lined sheet pan. 'Bake at 425°F (220°C) for approximately 10-15 minutes. Tops should be light brown, sides almost white and interiors still moist. Internal heat will continue to cook the bisCllits after Ihey are removed from the oven. 1. RemQ\'e Ihe biscuils to :1 wire rack to cool. .Ipllim:uc '-Jlul"S per biscuit: Calorie! 210. To tal fat 10 g. Saturated fat 6 g, Cholesterol 25 mg. IIIIm 2-10 mg. Total ca rboh)"dr:Ul'!!l ]J g. Protei n -I g, VItamin A 10%
I. Sifting the dry ingredients
together.
Cuning in the fat.
3. Kneading the dough.
4. Cutting the biscuits.
891
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C1Wl'ER 30
Muffin Method Muffins are any small, cakelike baked good made in a muffin lin (pan). for muffins and loaf quick breads are generally imerchangeable. banana muffin baIler may be baked in a loaf pan by allering Ihe 001,;,,&_ When preparing baked goods by Ihe muffin method, Ihe goal is a tender product with an even shape and an even distribution of fruils.. or other ingredients. The mosl frequent problem encountered with method products is overmixing. This causes toughness and may cause form inside lhe baked producl, a condition known as tunneling.
For"".
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARJNG PRODUCTS WITH THE MUFFIN Ml:l"HOD
1. Measure all ingredients. 2. Sift the dl)' ingredients together. 3. Combine the liquid ingredients, including melted fat or oil. Melledloo'ter' shortening may resolidify when combined with the other liquids; this· a cause for concern . 4. Add the liquid ingredients to the dl)' ingredients and stir just until combined. Do not overmix. The bailer will be lumpy. 5. The bailer is now ready for makeup and baking.
MAKEUP OF Mum, METHOD PRODOCfS
1. Muffin pans and loaf pans should be greased with butler, shoneningttl commercial pan grease. Paper liners may be used and will prevent if the baiter contains fruits or vegetables. Paper liners, however, inhibit 2. A portion scoop is convenient for ensuring uniform-sized muffins. Be careful not to drip or spill batter Onto the edge of the muffin cups; I[ d burn and cause sticking. 3. Allow muffins and loaf breads [0 cool for several minutes before attempting to remove Ihem from the pan. 4. Cool the fin ished products on a wire rack.
============= ~ =========== RECIPE 30.2
BLUEBERRY MUFFINS Vidd: 12 Muffins
Method: Muffin
All-purpose flour Granulated sugar Baking powder Salt
8 oz. 5 oz. 2 tsp.
Egg
1 8 oz. 2 oz. 1 tsp. 6 oz. 1 Thsp.
i'-lilk Unsalted butter, mehed Vanilla extract Blueberries Lemon zest
114
~p.
250 & 150 &
JOmJ I ml I 250011 60g 5 ml 180g 15011
QUICK BRWJS "'"
1. Sift the dry ingredients together. l Stir together the liquid ingrediems, including the melted buner. .J. Stir the liquid mixture imo the dl)' ingredients. Do nOl overmix. The bauer should be lumpy. t Gently fold in the blueberries and lemon zest. ! Portion into greased or paper-lined muffin cups and bake at 350°F (I80°C) until light brown and set in the cemer, approximately 18 minutes.
, Cool the muffins in the pan for several minutes before removing . .lj:p!:UEmale ,,,lues per nlllffm: Calories ISO, Total rat 5 g, Saturated fat 3 g, Cholesterol 30 mg, kIdIam 65 mg, Tota.! arbo hrdrates 30 g, Protetn 3 g, Vitamin A 6%, Cla1m'i-Iow sodium
J. CDmbining the liquid ingredients.
2. Folding in the blueberries.
Creaming Method The creaming method is comparable to the mixing method used for many butIl'1Takcs. 'rne fi nal product will be cakelike, wjlh a fine texture. There is less danger of overmixing with this method because the higher fat content shonens glutcn slrands and tenderizes the batter.
I'RocF.ooRE FOR PREI'ARING PRODUcrs WITH THE CREAMING METHOD
J. Measure all ingredients. l. Sift the dry ingredients together.
Combine softened fat and sugar in a mixer bowl. Cream umil the color lightens and the mixture fluffs. t Add eggs gradually, mixing well. ! Add the dry and liquid ingredients to the creamed fa t alternately. In other words, a ponion of the flollr is added to the fa t and incorporated, W1en a ponion of the liquid is lIdded and incorporated. 111ese steps are repeated until all the liquid and dl)' ingrediems arc incorporated. By adding the liquid and dl)' ingredients alternatcly, you avoid overmixing the batter and prcvcntthe butter and sugar mixture from curdling. , The batter is now ready for makeup and baking. j
j.
Portioning the balter.
893
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CIW'lER 30
MAKEUP OF CREAMING MITIIOD PRODUCTS Panning and baking procedures are the same as those for quick breacb IXt" pared with the muffin method.
= = = = = = .-
= = = = ==
RECIPE 30.3
SOUR CREM! M UFFINS Method: Creaming
Yield: 15 Muffins
Unsalted bUller, room temperature Granulated sugar
8 oz.
Eggs
2
All-purpose flour
JO oz. I tsp.
Baking powder Baking soda Salt
a oz.
I (Sp.
Sour cream
I tsp. 10 oz.
Vanilla extract
I
{Sp.
225 g 225 g 2 300 8
5 ml Sllll 5ml 3008 5 Illl
I . Cream the butler and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs.
2. Sift the dry ingredients together.
3. Stir the dry ingredients and sour cream, alternately. into the butlermixturt Stir in the vanilla. 4. Portion and bake at 350°F (Isooe) until light brown and set, approximalch
20 minutes. 5. Allow the muffins to cool briefly in the pan before remo\'ing. Streusel----a crumbly mix/lire offal, flollr, Sligar (111(1, sometimes, 1/I11s ami ~ices 11$«110 lop
baRed gootls.
VARIATIONS: Sour cream muffins can be lopped with streusel or fla\"ored wilh a wide variety of fruits o r nuts by adding approximately 4-6 ounces (I cup
J. Creaming the butter and sugar.
2. Adding the sour cream.
3. Topping the llluffins with streusel.
QUICK BREADS
~ ======= RECIPE 30.4
STREUSEL TOPPING 'leld: 3 lb. 8 oz. (1.5 kg) A11·purpose flour Cinnamon, ground Sol! Brown sugar Gmnulated sugar Whole butter, cold
80z. 114 oz. I tsp. 8 oz. lIb. 8 oz. lIb. 4 oz.
225g
7g 5ml
225 g 680g 560g
I. Combinc all dl)' ingredietlls. Cut in the buncr until the mixture is coarse and crumbly. 2. Sprinkle on top of muffins or quick bre'lds prior to baking. Streusel tOpping will keep for several weeks under refrigeration. per l--oz. (3O.g) serving' Calories 200, Total fat 8 g. Saturated rat 5 g, Chotes1O JI1!t. SCldium 130 mg. Total carboh)'dratcs 29 g. Protein '1 g, Vium;n A 8'Il Claims-low
~le \';J.tll<.'S ~
Griddlecakes Griddlecakes or griddle breads, such as pancakes and waffles, are actually a ~JlI! of quick bread. TIley are usually leavened with baking soda or baking powder and are quickly cooked on a vel)' hOI griddle or waffle iron with vel)' ltIIe fat. Griddlectkes should be more th:m just an excuse for eating butler and IIl:Iple s),rup, however. TIley should have a rich flavor and a light, tender, D:IisI interior. Pancake and waffle bailers may be flavored with tangy buckwheat flour, fruits, whole grains or nuts. Both pancakes and waffles are usually served with ~in or flavored butter and fmit compote or synlp. W:tffies mUSt be cooked in a special waffle iron. This gives the cakes a disllDCIi\'c gridlike pauern and crisp texture. Electric waffle irons arc 'Ivailable lih square, round and even heart-shaped molds. The grids should be seamed well, then never washed. (Follow the manufacturer's directions for seamng.) Crisp), Belgian warnes are made in a warne iron with extra deep pKIs. They are served for breakfast or as a dessert, tOpped with fresh fmit, I'/tipped cream or ice cream.
L Prep3fc the balter. 2. Heal a nat griddle or large saute pan over moderately high heal. Add clarified butler. l Ponion Ihe pancake batter onlo the hot griddle using a panion scoop, bdle or adjustable batter dispenser. Pour the portioned batter in one spot; ilshould spread into an even circle. Drop the batter so thaI no tWO pancakes will touch after the baiter spreads.
,"'VI,
895
896 '"""
C/W/fR 30
4. Cook until bubbles appear on (he surface and the bottom of the cake is sa and golden brown . Flip the pancake using an offset spatula. 5. Cook the pancake until the second side is golden brown. Avoid nipping the pancake more than Once :IS this causes it to denate.
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 305
BUTTERMILK PANCAKES Yield: 24 Pancakes
Flour Granulated sugar
450 g 30 rn]
1 lb.
211>sp. 111>sp.
Baking powder
Salt Buttermilk Unsalted buner, melled Eggs, beaten
15 ml 7 ml 750 ml
I 1/2 ISp .
I 1/ 2 pt. 2 oz.
3
60 g 3
1. Sift the fl our, sugar, baking powder and salt together. 2. Combine the liquid ingredients and add them to the dry ingredients. Mil just until the ingredie nts ,Lre combined . 3. If the griddle is not well seasoned, coat it lightly with clarified butter. Om its temperature re,lches 375°F (I 9Q°C), drop the batter onto it in 2
TABLE
30.1 .-,
TROUBLESIIOOTING CHART
Problem Soapy or bitter flavor
Elongated holes (tunneling) Crust too thick Flat tOp with only a small peak in center Crack<.-d. uneven top No risej dense product
Solution Chemical leaveners not properly mixed into b:llter Too much baking soda Overmixing Too much sugar Oven temperature tOO low Oven temperature too low Oven temperature too high Old bailer Damaged leavening agents Overmixing
Sift chemicals with dry ingredients Adjust formula Do not mix until smo<xh; mix only until moistened Adjust formu la Adjust oven Adjust oven Adjust oven Bake prompdy Store new chemicals properly Do nOt overmix
QUICK BREADS ~J
{ijONCLUSION .n-, f'rsI you must master the three mixing methods used in producing quick IRads (biSCUit, muffin and creaming) and understand the interaaion between dk'micalleaveners and other ingredients. Then, with an imaginative use of flallling ingredients, you can successfully produce a wide array of fresh-baked Imds for almost any food service operation.
!!2UFSJ10NS FOR DISCUSSION .n-, 1 :-lame two chemical leavening agents, and explain how they cause batters
and doughs
\0
rise.
l List. three common methods used for mixing quick breads. What is the
significance of the type of fat used for each of these mixing methods? 1 What is the most likely explanation for discolored and bitter-tasting biscuits? What is the solution? 4 Describe the resulting product when muffin batter has been overmixed.
I
yfnDmONAL QUICK BREAD FORMULAS .n-, RECIPE 30.6
CREAA/ SCONES Yield: 24 Scones
All·purpose flour Granulated sugar Baking p:>wder Baking soda ~It
L·IlS3lted butter, cold Egg yolks Half-and-half
Method: Biscuit 1 lb. J 112 oz.
JThsp. J tsp. 1 tsp. 4 oz. 2 11 oz.
450 g 45 g 15 ml 5ml 5ml
120 g
2 . 330 ml
L Combine all ingredients using the biscuit method. 1 Roll OUt the dough to a thickness of approximately 1/2 inch 0.25 centimeters). Cut as desired. 1 Bake at 4000F (200°C) for approximately 10 minutes. 40 Brush the tops with butter while hot.
• tlmTlONS: One-half cup (125 milliliters) raiSins, suilanas or currants may be Jdded to the dry ingredients. woximate V;J.lues per scone: Gllo rles 130. Totat fat 6 g, Saturated fat 3.5 g. Cholesterot 35 mg.
IIAao t60 mg. Total carbohydrates 17 g, Protein 3 g
897
898
r'\!\,
CHAPTER 30
~
RECIPE 30.7
SHOKTCAKES Yield: 48 large Pieces
Method: Bn
All-purpose flour Baking powder Salt Granulated sugar Unsalted butter, cold
4 1b. 33/4 oz. 2tsp. 13 oz. I lb. 12 oz. 7 18 oz. as needed ;IS needed
Eggs
Milk Whole buner, melted Granu lated sugar
1.8 kg 1I0g
IOml 39<1 g 840 g 7 ;40 ml as needed as needed
1. Combine all ingredients using the biscuit method.
2. Cut into 3-inch (75- cemimeter) circles and space 2 inches (; cen[inmsI
apan on a paper-lined sheet pan. Bake at 400°F (200"C) untillighlly browned, approxim.\tely 1;-18 rninuIcI. 4. Remove from the oven and bmsh the tops with melted buner. then ~ kle with granulated sugar.
j.
Approximate l'2lues per 3-oz. (82·g) serving: CaIorie5 310. Total fat [5 g. Saturated fat 9 80 laol 65 mg. Sodium 250 mg, TOOIl carbohydrate!! 38 g. Protein 5 g. Vitamin A 1;0.
a...
====== <'"it\I'!r. = = = == RECIPE 30.8
FRESH STRAWBERRY SHOKTCAKE TIlE fOUR SEASONS,
N~:w
YORK, NY
Yield: 6 Servings
Method: Biscuit
Flour Salt Sugar Baking powder Unsalted buner, cold Shonening Zest of one orange Milk
2 oz.
Egg
I
Vanilla extraa Heavy cream Confeaioner's sugar Fresh strawberries, sliced
1 tsp. 1 pc. 3 oz. 3 pI.
10 oz. 1/2 tsp. 3 lbsp. 1/2 Thsp. 2 1/2 oz. 2 Thsp.
300g 2 ml
4; ml 7 ml 7; g 30ml 60g I
;ml 430 ml 9
1330 ml
1. Combine the dry ingredients. Add the butter and shortening and rut II. until the mi.~ture looks like cornmeal. Add the orange zest. 2. Combine the milk, egg and vanilla and add to the dry ingredients. TumIU the dough on a board and knead a few times.
QUICK BREADS C"\!II~ l Divide the dough into six portions. Shape each ponion into a circle with rour hands. Bake at 450°F (230°C) until lightly browned, about 12- 15 minutes. Coolon a rack.
t Whip the cream with 2 ounces (60 grams) of confeaioner's sugar. Split the shortC:lkes in the middle and fill with the whipped cream and strawberries. Sprinkle confeaioner's sugar on top and serve with strawberry sauce. ~l!1l;Itc ";Ilucs per scrving: Calories 710. Total fat 44 g. SalUflItcd fat 25 g, Cholesterol 165 mg. Iodillm 2·\0 mg. Total carbo hyd l".Itl'S 71 g, Protein 9 g. Vitamin A 45%. V;l;I m; n C 140%
-v- ============= RECIPE 30.9
B ASIC BERRY M UFFINS STOUFFER
~'TANFORO
COURT 1I0TBI., S.-.N
FRA.~ClSCOJ
CA
former Chef Ereofilla Cmgfltlle Method: Muffin
Held: 60 Muffins
8
FW
8
1I('l\')' cream Lemon zest, finely grated NUlmeg, ground Granulated sug,lr Baking powder CJke nour Kosher salt Berries or nulS' Uns:lltcd butler, melted
I qt. lit from 2 lemons from 2 lemons 1 ml 1/4 tsp. I lb. 4 oz. 600g
6 Thsp. 31b. 1 Thsp.
90ml 1.3 kg 15 ml
I to I 1/2 qt.
I to 1.5 It
I lb.
450 g
1. Whip the eggs, cre,lnt and zest together by hanel.
l. Sift the dry ingredienLS together. Add the berries or nuts, tossing to coat them evenly w ith the nom mixture. j. Add the dry ingredients to the egg mixture and stir until about two-thirds
mixed. Add Ihe mehed butter and finish mixing.
t Portion into greased muffin tins and bake at 375°F 090°C) for approxim3lcly 1;"'18 minutes. ~t(· 1.llll'$ ~r mullin: Calories 260. Total fat J3 g. SlIturatcd {at 8 g, dKJk:sterol 70 mg. Sodium loiS rug. Tout ClIrboh)'dn tes 31 g. Protein 3 g. Vitamin A IS%, Claims-IOlw sodium
~.
bbckbcnics. raspberries. chopp!.-d pecans or w3lnuts may be used. a5 desired.
= = = = = = = ....".,.., = = = = = = = RECIPE 30. iO
MORNING GLORY M UFFINS Melhod: Muffin
Yield: 18 Muffins All-purpose nour Gmnuialed Sllg;lf Baking sod:1
lib. 18 oz. 4 tsp.
450 g
530 g 20ml
Comi,wed
899
900 '""" CIIAP11iR 30 Cinnamon, ground Carrots, grated Raisins Pecan pieces Coconut, shredded
4 !Sp. 14 oz.
20 mJ 420 g ISO g 120 g 120 g ISO g
6 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz.
6
Corn oil
6 oz. 6 12 oz.
Vanilla eXlract
4 tsp.
20m!
Apple, unpeeled, grated Eggs
360ml
1. Sift the dry ingredients together and set aside. 2. Combine the carrols, raisins, pecans, coconut and apple. 3. Whisk together the eggs, oil and vanilla.
4. Toss the carrot mixture into the dry ingredients. Then add the liquid ingredients, stirring just until combined. 5. Bake in well-greased muffin tins at 350°F (l70 0 e) until done, appro1l'
mately 25 minutes. Approximate ,,,lues JX"r muffin, Calories 520, TOial (at 27 g, SafUratcl fal 5 g, Cholcslerol1Jq.
Sodium 310 mg, Total carbohrdr.llcs 63 g. Protein 6 g. Vitamin A. 45% CIalms--good so;o.m"
fib<,
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 30.11
B ASIC B RAN MUFFINS Yield: 24 Muffins
Method: Muffin
Toasted wheat bran
6 oz.
All-purpose flour Gr.lnulated sugar Baking powder Salt Milk Honey r-.Iolasses
12 oz. 4 oz. 4lsp. lisp. 12 oz. 3 oz. 3 oz.
Eggs
2
2
Vanilla extr.ld Unsalted buuer, melted
1 tsp. 4 oz.
5ml 120 g
lSOg 360g 120 g 20ml Sml
360 1lI1 90g 90g
1. Combine all ingredients lIsing the muffin method. 2. Scoop into greased or paper-lined muffin tins. Bake at 350"F OiOOC) unIi ligh!ly brown and firm , approximately 20 minutes. VAlUATIO~: Up to 6 ounces (180 grams) of raisins or chopped nuts rna)' k added to the batter if desired. Approximate values per muffin: Calories 170, Total fat 5 g, Saturated fat 2.5 g, Cholesferol ):lq. Sodium tt O mg, Total carbohydrates 26 g. Protein 4 g. Clalnl'l-Iow sodium; good 501110' dfm
QUICK BREADS ~ 901
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 30. 12
Z UCCHINI BREAD Method: Muffin
Yield: 2 9 in, x 5 in. (24 em x 12 em) Loaves Whole eggs
3
3
Com oil Granulated sugar
Boz. I lb. 2 oz. I tsp.
225 ml 510 g
2 {Sp.
10 ml 5 ml 5 ml 2 ml 420 g 330 g 120 g
Vanilla extract Cinnamon, ground
lisp. lisp.
Sali Baking soda Baking powder
1/2 [Sp. 14 oz.
AU-purpose flour
11 oz. 4 oz.
Zucchini, coarsely grated
Pecans, chopped
5 ml
I. Combine all ingredients using the muffin method.
1. Bake in (wo greased loaf pans at 350c F (t70°C), approximately 1 hour. .Ipp'OXirIUlt values per 2-()l. (67-iJ SClVinS' Calories 260, Tow fal 16 g, Saluralro fal 2 g. Cholestnll lO IJl3, Sodium 190 mg. Total carbohydMlles 27 g. Protein 2 g
=========== ~ ============
--.
. ••
RECIPE 30. 13
IRISH SODA BREAD Method: Muffin
'leld: I 8-in. (20-em) Round Loaf Currants
Irish whiskey All-purpose flour, Sifted Sali Baking powder Baking soda
2 oz. I 1/2 oz. 12 oz. IISp. 1 1/2 tsp. I
tsp.
Brown sugar
I Tbsp.
l.o\\fat bunermilk
I
pt.
60g 45 ml
360 g 5 ml 7 ml 5ml 15 ml 500 ml
1, Soak the currants in the whiskey until plump, at least 1 hour. 1. Sift the dry ingredients together. Stir in the currants and whiskey. j. Stir in the buttermilk, making :1 stiff batter. , Spread the batter in a greased 8-inch round cake pan. Bake at 350°F 070°C) until well browned and firfn , approximately 45 minutes . .\p\I:!Ilunate '·alues per }-oz. (9O-g) $erving: Calories ISoO. Toul fat 1 g, Saturated fat 0 g, ChotesInlI Omg. Sodium 480 mg, Total carbohydrates 31 g, Protein 5 g, Calcium 10%, Cblms-low f~l; IIdx1lesterol; no saturated fat
902
~
CHAPTER 30
====== ,-..p-,===== RECIPE 30.14
BASIC CORN MUFFINS Yield: 30 Muffins
Method: Muffin
Yellow cornmeal All-purpose flour Granulated sugar
12 oz. 12 oz. 10 oz.
Baking powder
I Thsp. I tsp.
Baking soda Salt Buttermilk Eggs Unsalted butter, melted
350 g 350 g
300g 15 ml 5ml 3ml 720 ml
3/4 ~p. 24 oz. 6
6
6 oz.
170 g
1. Combine all ingredients llsing the muffin method.
2. Portion into greased muffin tins, filling two-thirds full.
3. Bake at 37S Q F (I90°C) until done, approxim;ltely 20-25 minutes. Approximate V:llue
j'.
Sodium 140 mg, ToUl carbohydrates 28 g. PnMeln 4 8
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 30. 15
H USH P UPPIES
(DEEP-FRIED CORNBREAD) Yield: 60 2-in. (S-em) Pieces
Yellow cornmeal All-purpose flour
Method: Muffin
I lb.
Eggs
8 oz. Ilbsp. 11bsp. 11bsp. 2 oz. 8 oz. 4
Milk
I pI.
Baking powder Salt Black pepper Granulated sugar Onion, minced
450 g 225 g
15 m] 15 m! 15 ml
60g 225 g 4 450 ml
I . Combine all ingredients llsing the muffin method.
2. Drop small scoops (using a :60 or "'70 !X>llion scoop) into 375°F OWO deep fat. Using the swimming method, deep-fry until golden brown. 3. Remove from the fat and dr.tin. Serve immediately. Approximate Vlllucs per pieoce: CaIorics 70, Total fat 3 g, Saturalrd fat I g. Cholesttrol i ... Sodium 120 mg., Total c;orboh)"dnllcs ]0 II. Protein ] g
====== ~ ===== RECIPE 30.16
BWE CORN M UFFINS Yield: 60 Muffins All-purpose shol1ening Granulated sugar
Melhod: Creaming
I lb. lib. 8 oz.
450 g
680g
QUICK BREWS
Blue cornmeal Whole eggs All-purpose flour Baking powder
lib.
450 g 450 ml
I pt.
900g
21b. I 1/ 4 oz. 1 1/2 oz.
Salt
Vanilla extract
JThsp.
Honey
12 oz. I qt.
Bunemlilk
35 g 45 g 15 ml
340 g I It
/. Using a mixer fined with the paddle attachment, cream the shonening. sugar and cornmeal until light and fluffy. Add the eggs. Mix on low speed for I minute. 1. Sift the remaining dry ingredients together. Stir the vanilla and honey into the bu!!ermilk. j. Add the dry ingredients and bUllermilk mixture, alternately, to the creamed mixture. Mix on low speed for 2 minutes, scraping down the bowl as neces.s.uy t Ponion into well-greased muffin pans. Bake at 325 F (I60°C) until done, approximately 15 minutes. Q
\pproIirtut(' 1';llul'S
peT
muffin, CalorlC:9 230. Total fat 9 g. Saluratc:d fat 2'; g. Choleste rol 25 mg,
Sodium JI G mg. TOIaI carboh}'dratC:9 35 g. Protein 4 II
Nore Blue cornmeal is derived from variegated Indian com. lis natural bluerolor is a result of a high lysine content. Blue com has a stronger fl:I\'or Ibm white or yellow corn and is popular in southwestern cuisine. P),
RECiPE 30.17
lEMON TEA BREAD Yield: 12 Muffins or I Loaf
Unsalted bUller, softened Granulated sugar
Method: Creaming
3 oz. 10 oz.
90g 300g
Eggs
2
2
Milk All·purpose flour Baking powder
4 oz. 6 oz. I tsp.
180 g
Salt
1/2 lSp. I Thsp.
lemon zest lemon juice
4 oz.
120 ml
5 ml 2ml 15 ml 120 ml
1. Cream the bUller with 7 ounces (2 10 grams) of the sugar. Add the eggs and
milk. Mix well. 1. Sift the flour, b.:1king powder and salt together and add to the bUller mixture. Fold in the lemon zest Ponion into lightly greased pans. 0 j. Bake at 350 (170°C) until lester "comes out clean, approximately 35-40 minutes for a large loaf or 12-15 minutes for muffins. Remo\'e the bread from the panes) and place on a cooling rack. Confill llcd
903
904 '"""
CHArI1iR 30
4. Combine the remaining 3 ounces (85 grams) of sugar with the lemon juXt Heal until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is hot. Slowly pour or m Ihe glaze over me hot bread. Approximate values per muffin: Calorie!! 220, Youl fat 7 g, Satur.ucd fat " g, Choblmll jllIIIJ Sodium ] 15 mg. ToUl carboh}'d rates 36 g. Protdn 3 g
============= ~ ============ RECIPE 30.18
SOUR CREMf COFFEECAKE Yield: 1 lO-in. (2S-em) Tube Cake
Method: Creaming
Filling:
All-purpose flour Cinnamon, ground
Brown sugar Pecans, chopped Unsalted butter, melted Unsalted butter Granulated sugar Eggs Sour cream
Cake flour, sifted Salt Baking powder
Baking soda Vanilla extract
I 1/2 Thsp. I Tbsp.
20 m!
6 oz. " oz. 1 oz. " oz. 8 oz.
l80g 120 g 30 g 120 g 225 g 2 225 g 210 g 1m! 5m! 5m! ;ro]
2 8 oz. 7 oz. 1/4 ~p. I esp. 1 [Sp. 1 lSp.
15m!
1. To make the fi lling, blend all the bowl. Set aside.
2. To make the cake baner, cream the butter and sugar. Add the eggs, one I a time, beating wel! after each addition . Add [he sour cream. Stir urd smooth. 3. Sift [he presifted fl our, salt, baking powder and baking soda [ogethenwict Stir into the batter. Stir in the vanilla extract. 4. Spoon half of the batter into a greased tube pan. Top with half of (he fiB. ing. Cover the filling with the remaining batter and top with the remainq filling. Bake at 350°F (I80 QC) for 35 minutes. Approximate values per serving: Calories 490. Total fal 26 g, Satur.l.loo fat 11 g, Choleslerot85 II(. SOdium 220 mg, Total carbohrd rate5 59 g. Proldn 5 g, Vitamln A 15%
HAPTER
EAST
1
·;'So.v '
, _ _ _,,::c..
=== ~ ===
After studying this chapte r, you will
be able ~
10;
select and use yeast
~ perform the 10 steps involved
in yeast bread production mix yeast doughs using the straight dough method and sponge method r"\!\.. prepare rolled-in doughs ~
F~rmenlatio n-lbe process
by wbicb)'MSI con-
verts sugar into ala>boJ and CArbon dlaxkJe; IJ
abo refers /() the Hme lbat yeast dougb is kjllG rise--lbal is, the lime illom for carbcn dioxide §IlS arls /() form and b«tJme /rapped in the gluten netuxJrlt.
!though Jew baked goods intimidate novice 00• .,. much as yeast breads,Jew baked goods are actually as forgiving comforting to prepare as yeast breads. By mastering Q, Jfi::et:~Vj:;:;'; cedures and techniques, you can offer your customers a yeast products. Yeast breads can be divided in/o two categon'es: lean dOI"Rb" "" rich dougbs. Lean doughs, slich as those lISed for French and breads, contain little or no sugar orfal. Rich doughs, such as and some multigrain breads, contain significantly more sugar fat. Rolled-in doughs, so-called because the fat is rolled into dough in layers, are a type of n·ch dough used for baked as croissants and sweete,wd danish. The study ofyeast breads could well occupy this entire text entire course. The focus here is nan·owed to an. understanding fundamental techniques and procedures for making the most WIIf. mon styles ofyeast breads for a small retail shop or restaurant. McS of the formulas in this chapter yield only 011e or two loaves or op dozen rolls. Although most of these formulas can be increased.\Wo cessfully if necessary, you can best develop proper judgme1ll skills", first preparing small quantities. We discuss hands-on mLrillg ani makeup techniques, leaving the science of commercial (thaI is, "". chanical) bread production to others.
Yeast is a living organism: a one-celled fungus. Various strains of yeast aIt present vinually everywhere. Yeast feeds on carbohydrates, convening them)) carbon dioxide and alcohol in an organic process known as fermentatioa: Yeast + Carbohydrates = Alcohol + Carbon Dioxide When yeast releases carbon dioxide gas during bread making, the gas ~ comes trapped in the dough's gluten network. The trapped gas leal"ens. bread, providing the desired rise and texture. The small amount of akdd produced by fermentation evaporates during baking. As with most living things, yeast is very sensitive to temperature. It prefcD temperatures between 90°F and 110°F (32°C-43°C). At temperatures bdor 34°F (2°C), it becomes dormant; above 138°F (5~C), it dies. Salt is used in bread making because it conditions gluten, making it.strooga" and more elastic. Salt also affects yeast fermentat ion. Because salt inhibits !be growth yeast, it helps control the dough's rise. Too little salt and not !Dr will the bread taste bland, it will rise too rapidly. Too much salt, howel"ef, and the yeast will be destroyed. By learning to control the amount of food for !be yeast and the temperatures of fermentalion, you can learn to control the [eIture of your yeast-leavened products.
ot
T.uii£ 31.1
.h-. TEMPERATIJRES FOR
_r
~'r
~1 J50F ~1 3O"F
I,..r
DEVELOPMENT
Yeast Development
Ttmper.uure
9!-mor
YEAS!
2'C 16-21"C 21-32"C
41-46OC 52- 54"C 59'C
Inactive
S\owadion Desl temperature for growth of fres h yeast Best temperature for growth of dry yeast Desl temperature for activating instant yeast Yeast dies
~pes of Yeast Baker's yeast is available in two forms: compressed and active dry. (You may also encounter a product called brewer's yeast; it is a nutritional supplement nh no leavening ability.)
fJNnpressed Yeast Coolpresscd yeast is a mixture of yeast and starch with a moisture content of ~ximalely 70%. Also referred 10 as fresh yeast, compressed yeast must be lqx refrigerated. 11 should be creamy white and crumbly with a fresh, yeasty tDdJ. Do not use compressed yeast that has deve loped a SOUf odor, brown
/
•
or slimy film. Compressed yeast is available in O.6-ounce (17-gram) cubes and I-pound li5l)-grJm) blocks. Under proper storage conditions, compressed yeast has :l !W life of 2-3 weeks.
ktive Dry Yeast A£ti','e dry yeast differs from compressed yeast in thai virtually all the moisture Ius been removed by hot air. TIte absenee of moisture renders the organism hot and allows the yeast to be stored without refrigeration for several Mlths. When preparing doughs, dry yeast is generally rehydrated in a luke~ warm (approximately 110°F [43°C]) liquid before being added to tbe other in~
Compressed Yetlst
~ots.
DI}' yeast is available in I/4-ounce (7-gram) packages and 1+ or 2-pound fiG.gram or I-kilogram) vacuum-sealed bags. It should be stored in a cool, place and refrigerated after opening.
*"
illant Yeast BIlt or quick-rise dry yeast is also available. It must be blended with the ty ingredients in a bread formula , then activated with hot (approximately 125"F-13O"F [52°C-54°CD water. It dramatically speeds the rising process. !nlint ),east can be substituted measure for measure for regular dry yeast. !nDIll yeast is still a living organism and will be destroyed at temperatures 8JI'l' IWF C59 QC). The navors of dry and compressed yeasts are virtually indistinguishable, but is approximlllely twice as strong. Because tOO much yeast can ruin always remember to halve the specified weight of compressed yeast substituting dry yeast in a formula. Likewise, if a fonnu la specifies dry double the amount when substituting compressed yeast. All the formu. text requiring yeast use regular active dry yeast.
Dr)'
trust
910
• C/1AI'fPJ/ 31
Sourdough Starter Prior 10 commercial yells! production, bakers relied on slaners to leal'en breads. Early Slancrs were simple but magical mixtures of flour and (watcr, polato broth, milk) left 10 c;\pture wild ye:lsts from the (lir
0.
"",1 ..
men!. Only a ponion of the staner was used at a lime. The rest was later use, replenished periodically with additional flour and liquid magic could continue. Today, S\,lrters arc generally fortified with yeast \0 provide consislt'lX)' reliability: they are prize.-'(\ for the unique, sour fl:IVOrs they impart. dry cultures are often used commercially 10 give bread a 'so,u,rdough' fl.. without requiring the lime and splice necessary to develop and 1l13inlain live starter.
..r- = = = = ===, RECIPE 31.1
SOURDOUGH SliUnER Yield: I qt. (I It) Active dry yeast Water, warm Water, room lemperamre All-purpose flour
1 tSp.
5 Ill[
4 oz. 14 oz. 2 [b.
400 ml 1 kg
120m[
1. Combine the yeast and warm water. Let stand until foamy, approximlct 10 minutes. 2. St ir in the 14 ounces (400 grams) of room-temperature water, then add die flour, 2 ounces (60 grams) at a time. 3. Blend by hand or with the paddle attachment of an electric mixer speed for 2 minutes. 4. Place the starter in a warmed bowl and cover with plastic wrap. at room tempe rarure overnight. The starter should triple in vollunebutd be wet and sticky. Refrigerdte until read}' to use. 5. Each time a portion of the starter is used, it must be replenished To Iplenish the Slarter, Slir in equal amounts by volume of flour and water. Then allow the mixture to ferment at room temperature hours or overnight before refriger.lIing.
00.
Sourdollgh Starter
LeI_
Approximate values per t-oz. 00-8): Ca lories 100, Total fat 0 g, Saturated fat 0 II. Choleslero!Q" Sodium 0 Illg, Total carbohydrates 22 g, Pl"oteln 3 g
NOTE: If liquid rises to the top of the starter, it should be stirred back iruo6e mixture. If the starter develops a pink or yellow film, it has been con\.al1lirdlal and must be discarded.
PRODUCTION STAGES FOR YE4ST BREADS The proouction of yeast breads can be divided into 10 stages:
•
1. Scaling the ingredients 2. Mixing and kneading the dough j. Fermenting lhe dough
,I',
' "EA.ST BREADS
911
t Punching down the dough
1 Ponioning the dough 6. Rounding the ponions 1. Shaping the ponions B. Proofing the products !l B:tking the products III Cooling and storing the fin ished products
Slage J: Scaling the Ingredients .\,\ \\;tl1 any other bakeshop product, it is imponant to scale or measure inkJedients accuflnely when making a yeast bread. Be sure that all necessary in"roients arc available :lOd at the proper temperature before starting. The :llllount of flour required in a yeast bread may Vllry depending upon 1ft humidity level, stofllge conditions of the flour and the llccuracy with which tther ingredients are measured . The :unollnt of flour stated in most formulas ~ 10 be used as a guide; experience teaches when more or less flour is actu111)' needed.
Slage 2. Mixing and Kneading tbe Dougb 11t way ingredients are combined :,ffeets the outcome of the bread. A dough os be mixed properly in order to combine the ingredients uniformly, dismne the ye:ISi and develop the gluten. If the dough is nO{ mixed properly, _ bread's texture and sh:lpc suffer. Yeast breads are lIsually mixed by either the straight dough me thod or die sponge method. A th ird method used for rich, flaky doughs is discussed Wl'in the section on roUed-in doughs. Onct' ingredients are combined, the dough must be kneaded to develop j,lten. the network of proteins that gives II bread its shape and tex!Ure. ~ding C'Jn be done by hand or by an ek>ctric mi.xer with its dough hook
I================== ~ ================== THE RlSE OF YfttST BREADS
~ /bI.' and linen the first yeast-leavened IIIDcame into being no one knQl'.'S , llemaps 'ikl )tas5-the world is full of theminto a dough as it awaited baking. Per-
E
SIllIe ancienl
baker substituted fermented
(l'M>r for waler one day. In any case, ~le jII*ing bread I\'IIS different, lighter and more
"n~ Bud on
nxxlels, images and writings
in excavated tombs, \lIe can be fairly !Iut the ancient EIDPtians saved a bit
imrne:l dough from one day's baking 10 mthe next day·s. This use of sourcklugh OOfItinues today, enjoying widespread ~.
Other cultures developed their own leal'C1Iing methods. The Greeks and Romans prepared a wheal porridge \\ith wine, which caused their doughs to fennent The Gauls and Iberians add6:I ~\e foamy head from ale 10 their doughs. Hath methods resulted in lighter breads that retained their fresh texwres longer. Since ancient limes, bread baking has been one of ~Ie first household l3Sks readily turned O\'er 10 professionals. The first cooJ;s to work outside homes during the Greek and Roman en1llires . . 'Cre bakers. The bakery trade flourished during tile Middle Ages, with a wide variety of breads being produced. Ye-JSt-leal'ened breads remained tile exception, not the nonn,
until well into the 17~1 century, hQl'.'e\'Cr. n"le first real collection of bread recipes is found in Nicolas Bonncfon's Les Nlire; de fa campagne, published in 1654. Bonnefon's instructions, meant for ~\Ose dissatisful . . ith commercial products of the time, included the use of beer yeast By the end of the 17th CEntury, published works inclLKled recipes for breads leal'Cned with sourdough starter and the )"eaSts used in bl'Cll'Cries. Louis Pasteur finally Identified }ta'it as a living organism in 1857. Soon after, a plOCfSS for distilling or manufacturing baker's yeast was de\'Cloped. By 1868, commercial baking yeast was available in stores.
912
~
CIIAPlER 31
auachment. Dough should be kneaded until it is smOOlh and moderately ~ tic. TIle presence of a few blislerlike air bubbles on the dough's surfare ahII signals thaI kneading is complete. Because fat and sugar slow glulen deI~ ment, rich, sweel doughs are generally kneaded longer than lean doop Overkneading results in dough lhat is, at best, difficult to shape and, in t1 Ireme cases, sticky and inelaslic. Overkneading is rarely a problem, ~'('\tt except when using a high-speed mixer or food processor.
PROCEDURE fOR KNEADING DOUGII BY
llANo
1. First, bring a portion of the dough toward you.
2. Then push the dough away fiooI you with your fist.
3. Repe:n until the dough is proper!)" kneaded.
Straight Dough Method TIle simplest and most common method for mixing yeasl doughs is knov.u Ihe straight dough method. With this method, all ingredients are simply 0» bined and mixed. The yeast mayor may nOt be combined first with a UII liquid. Be careful that the temperature of the liquid ingredients does 00 do ceed 13soF C59"C) or the yeast will die. Once the ingredients are combined, the dough is kneaded until it is SIOCdII and elaslic. Kneading time varies according to the kneading method usedml the type of dough being produced. The straight dough melhod is iUustrad wilh Recipe 31.2, Soft Yeast Dinner Rolls.
Sponge Method TIle sponge method of mixing yeast doughs has two stages. During the fd stage the yeast, liquid and approximately half the flour are combined to_ a ihick batter known as a s ponge. The sponge is allowed 10 rise until W:tiy and doubled in size. During the second stage, the fal, salt, sugar and remaIing flour are added. The dough is kneaded and allowed to rise again. Thr:r
YFAfT BRFADS
twO fermentations give sponge method breads a somewhat different flavor and texture than breads made with the slraighl dough method. Do not confuse sponge method breads with sourdough starters. The sponge method is most often used to improve the texture of heavy doughs such as lye, Unlike a sourdough starter, the first-stage sponge is prepared only for the
1 lighter
specific formula and is nO( reserved for later use. The sponge method is Hlustr3ted with Recipe 31.3, Light Rye Bread.
Slage 3: Fermenting the Dough As mentioned earlier, fermentation is the process by which yeast converts sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide. Fermentation also refers to the time !hal reast dough is left 10 rise-Ihm is, the time it takes for carbon dioxide gas 10 form and become trapped in the gluten network. Note that fermentation refers to the rise given to the entire mass of yeast dough, while proofing refers to the rise given to shaped yeast products just prior to baking. For fermentation, place the kneaded dougb into a lightly oiled container brge enough to allow Ihe dough to expand. The surface of the dough may be Ill1ed to prevent drying. Cover the dough and place it in a warm place-that h. at temperatures between 75°F and 85°F (24C C-29°C). It is beller to allow the doogh to rise slowly in a cool place than to rush fermentation. Fermentation is complete when the dough has approximately doubled in sile and no longer springs back when pressed gently with two fingers. The _ necessary varies depending on the type of dough, the temperature of the IIXm and the temperature of the dough.
Stage 4: Punching Down the Dough ,\!ier fermentat ion, the dough is gently folded down to expel and redistribute !he gas pockets with a technique known as punching down. Punching down
Stage 5. Portioning the Dough The dough is now ready to be divided into portions. For loaves, the dough is lC11ed to the desired weight. For individual rolls, you can first shape the dough no an even log, then cut off portions with a chef' s knife or dough culler. fcighing the CUI dough pieces on a portion scale ensures even-sized portions. Ihen portioning, work quickly and keep the dough covered to prevent it Ian drying out.
Stage 6: Rounding the Portions ~ poruons
of dough must be shaped into smOOlh, round balls in a technique krlcr'An as rounding. Rounding stretches the outside layer of gluten into a mOO. cooting. TIlis helps hold in gases and makes it easier to shape the ibJgh. Unrounded rolls rise unevenly and have a rough, lumpy surface.
Stage 7: Shaping the Portions Itln doughs and some rich doughs can be shaped inlo a variety of forms: Iqe lool'es, small loaves, free-form or country-style rounds or individu:II din-
'"""
913
9 I4
CIIAPl'ER 31
ner rolls. Table 31.2 identifies common pan sizes and the approxil1l3te 1\' of the dough used 10 fill them. Some shaping techniques are diagramed b:rt Other doughs, particularly brioche, croissant and danish, are usually stu!X'd1 vel)' specific ways. TIlose techniques are discLlssed and illustrated I\ith!rd specific fonnulas.
I. Rob dough In indo (U; cemimetm) thick 2IId c.:
Imodrcles. Koeadml Il,'Il)U trimnrings.
o o I . [)j,ide each ponian of dough into th~ equal p2f1S
1. [)ip one side rJ eadI ad! In III('lted boner.
:.tnd ~IK' illlo halls. Place thret' IWIs in t:lrn ~ muffin lin. Proof.
....
3.foklln 1Wf, ~idJ Idrred side in. PIxf clost q:tdItI' in haking sIM!ft. J'ro(i
2. The IrJketl dOll'rleaf roll.
f1GIJIi:E3 1.1 C/OI>ericojRoIls
FIGURE 31.2
TABLE
31.2
J'r-,
/'(I,I.:er HOl/se Rolfs
PAN SIZI'S
1':lH
Aflproxim:tte Size
Sandwich Loaf
16 in. x 4 in. x 4 1/2 in. 13 in. x 4 in. x 3 in.
Pullman Large Medium
Small Miniature
,
9in.x5in. x3in. Sin.x4in. x 2 in. 7in.x3in. x 2 in. Sin.x3in. x 2 in.
''X'cights given are approximate:
\~Iri;l1ions
Wdgh[of~
4 lb. 3 lb. 2 lb. lib. 8 OL lib. 8 oz.
may occur ooS<."(j on the t)'Pl' d oo...gh used ~
well as the temrxrJturc and tillle of proofing.
IWI" BREAlJS
l. RoU dough into ~ Lhln recwtgle. Brush \lith melted bUller and cut InIo II/j·lnch (3JS.centlmeter) I1de suips.
l PlaC(' each sUce into a greased muffin tin , cut side up. proof.
Blllterfoke Rolls
stupe !he dough Into Ii rope thl'll \\list to form 1I Single knot Pl.:tCl! on a baking sh~. proof.
•
&lUi KIlO! KoIls
2. Slack six or 5el'('n snips together, then cut into slices.
4. The baked buuerilake ron.
915
9/6 "'"
CIW'l1!R 31
Bagcl--a dnlSe, donul-sbaperI)mst roll; iI is roo/led in l:xJi/ing UYlIer, then baNd, uobidJ gU.'I!S iI a sbi"y gIa::e ar/'/ cheu,. lex/lire.
(
Bunb-a"y of a mriety 0{small, round)'fflSI rolls; tall be SUV!tf or SiWOry.
(
Club roU __1 mwll oml-sbap«1 roIlmmli of m/Sly Frellcb brrud.
{
Kaiser rol1----o {(lrge rfJlmd )'et1S1 roll uitb {/ crisp crusI alld a CIIrmJ pol/em skimped on the lop; IIS«i primarilyfor sandwiches.
C FIGURE 31.5
I"
!
1 (@)
I . tbntn thedougb into a~. FoIdOltr
one Ion&edge and press the seam~.
2. Continut 10 roll the dough. pressing Ibt se. 6rm1y ",fib taeh tum. SlretCh the frooI cotIItI'$ as JItCeS&1I)' IO mainlain the~.
}. Place the finlslw!d roU of dough in agrnsed pan, seam side d Ollll. Proof.
Pan Loo/Jes
I. Roll tbedou&h IlIlo a rfCWlgIelhen roIIl!p from the long side, ~"roII bsItioo. Pincb the seam 10 seal.
2. Place the I~ on a biling shoo, seam side dolin, and shape the ends. Proof.
FIGURE 31.6
Free-Fomll..oatJeS
Stage 8: Proofing the Products Proofing is the final rise of shaped or panned yeast productS before bakq The temperature should be be~veen 9jOF and 115°F G5°C-46"C), slip higher than the temperanlre for fermenlalion. Some humidity is also desintt
to prevent the dough from d'1'ing or forming a crust. Temperature and t.. midity can be controlled with a special cabinet known as a proof box Proofing should continue until the product doubles in size and springs bd slowly when lightly touched. Underproofing results in poor volume and tel
JEW' 8RlWJS
~
917
rure. O\'erproofing results in a sour flavor, poor volume and a paler color after biling.
Stage 9: Baking the Products yeast breads bake, a variety of chemical and physical changes turn the dough into an edible product. TIlese changes are discussed in Chapter 29, Principles of the Bakeshop. Because of the exp.1nsion of gases, yeaSt PrOOucts experience a sudden rise ,,"hen first placed in a hOI oven. TIlis rise is known as oven spring. As the IbIgh's tcmperalUre increases, the yeast dies, the gluten fibers become firm, die Slarches gelatinize, the moisture evaporates and, finally, the crust forms md turru; brown. Before baking, products can be washed and then , if desired, slashed. ."-$
The appearance of yeast breads can be altered by applying or wash to the dough before baking. TIle crust is TABLE 31.3 .n-. WASHES FOR YEAST PRODUCTS mde shiny or matte, hard or soft, darker or lighter by the Wash IIupt'f use of washes. Washes are also used to allach u'" weds, wheal germ, 0.1ts or other toppings 10 the dough's Whole egg and waler Shine and color mace. \X'hole egg and milk Shine and color with a soft crust The most commonly used wash is an egg wash, comEgg white and water Shine with a firm crust posed of whole egg and water. Yeast products can also be Water Crisp crust Klpped with plain water, a mixture of egg and milk, plain flo., Texture and comrast IDiIk or richer glazes containing sugar and flavorings. Even Color with a soft crus< Milk or cream ,light dusting of white fl our can be used to tOp dough. \This is commonly seen with potato rolls.) .~roid using too much wash, as it can bum or cause the pOOucr to stick to the pan. Puddles or streaks of egg 101m on the dough will cause uneven browning. Washes may be applied before or after proofing. If applied after proofing, be e.~tremely careful not to deflate the product. OccaSionally, a formula will specify that melted buner or oil be brushed on me product after baking. Do nOt , however, apply egg washes 10 already baked jXOducts, as the egg will remain raw and the desired effect will not be
1 glaze
"""ed.
lksbing 1h! shape and appearance of some breads can be improved by cutting their Ilp5 with a sharp knife or razor just before baking. This is referred to as slashill or docking. Hard-crusted breads are usually slashed to allow for continled rising and the escape of gases after lhe crust has fomled. Breads that are 1(1 properly slashed will burst or break along the Sides. Slashing can also be I!td to make an anraclive design on the prtXlUcl'S surface.
•
'lIjectiOIl crust desired for ceJ1ain breads and rolls is achieved by imrtXlucing into the oven during baking. Professional bakers' ovens ha\'e built-in injection jets to provide moisture as needed. To create steam in any you can spray or mist tlle brC'dd with water several times during baking, pace ice cubes on the oven floor to melt or keep a pan of hot water on the MIl'S lowest rack. Rich doughs, which do not form crisp crusts, are baked
918
.
C!W'TJ:.'R 31
~ == CROlffONS
Acrouton is simply a piea! of bread thai is toasted. saulied or dried. Th'O types are
often used. The more familiar ones are small seasoned cubes of bread that are baked or toasted and sprinkled O\'E!r soups or salads. A more classic variety is made by saut€ing slices of bread in clarified butter or olive oil unli I brown and crisp. The bread may be rough slices from a baguette or cut into shapes (such as heartS, diamonds 01 circles) from larger slices. Sautred croutons have 1\\'0 advantages over the toasted variety: They stay crisp longer after coming in conlact with moist foods, and Ihey gain flavor from the butter or oli~-e oil in which they are cookOO. Saui&d croutons can be used to decorate Ihe border of a seIVing dish, as a base for canapes, a garnish for soups, an aa:ompanimenl 10 spreads: or ca\;ar or as a base under some meat and game dishes.
Determini1lg Dollelless Baking time is determined by a variel}' of factors: the product's size. the (JIll themlostat's accuracy and the desired cmst color. Larger items require a Iooga' b:lking time than smaller ones. Lean dough products bake faster and 31 higba temperatures than rich dough products. Bread loaves can be tested for doneness by tapping them on the bttq and listening for a hollow sound. TIlis indicates that air, not moisture, is Pft" ent inside the loaf. If the bottom is damp or heavy, the loaf probab/)· m more baking time. The texture and color of the Cnlst are also a good incb tion of doneness, paJticularly with individual rolls. As you bake 3 1':Irie!r Ii yeast products, you will develop the experience necessary to detemline g. ness without strict adherence to elapsed time.
Stage 10: Cooling and Storing the Finished Producls Tile quality of even the fin est yeast products suffers if they are cooled IJ stored improperly. Yeast products should be cooled at room temper:lture md away from drafts. Yeast breads and rolls sltould be removed from their pam for cooling. Allow loaves to cool completely before slicing. Once cool, yeast products should be stored at room temperature or fro2s for longer storage. Do not refrigerate baked goods, as refrigeration plOlllllCS staling. Do not wrap Italian or French loaves, as this causes cruSts to lose dr desired crispness.
=
= == = = = -V- = == = == RECIPE 31. 2
SOFT Yield: 75 Rolls
Water, warm Active dry yeast Bread flour Salt Granulated sugar Nonfat dry milk Shonening Unsalted butler, softened Eggs, whole Egg wash
•
YE4ST
DINNER Roas Method: Straight Dough
1 lb. 4 oz. 2 oz. 21b. 12 oz. 1 oz. 4 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. 4 oz. as needed
;60 ml 60 g 1.2 kg 30g 120g 60g
60g 60 8
120g as needed
1. Combine the water and yeast in a small bowl. Combine the remaining IIgredients (except the egg wash) in tile bowl of an electric mixer. 2. Add the water-and-yeast mixture to the remaining ingredients: .stir II combine. 3- Knead with a dough hook on second speed for 10 minutes. 4. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased bowl, co\'er and place in a 110111 spot. Let rise until doubled, approximately 1 hour. 5. Punch down tlte dough. Let it rest a few minutes to allow Ihe gluten II relax. 6. Divide the dough into I 1I4-ounce (35-gram) ponions and round. Shape Ii desired and arrange on paper-lined sheet p'lns. Proof until doubled insilt
IBWBRWJS
'"""
919
,. Carefully brush the proofed rolls with egg wash. Rake at 400"F (200°C) until medium brown, approximately 12-15 minutes. \pprtllC1lIU1e valucs per roll: Ca10rles 90, Total fat 15 g. Saturateu f:1I 05 g. QlOleslerol 10 m&, !odium 160 mg. Toul carbohydratC!l 15 g, Protein 3 g Claims- low fat; low sa!lir:ucd fat; low dlO-
I. \hxing the soft yeast dough: a) Combining the ingredients in a mixer bowl with the dough
2. Kne:lding the dough.
b) Adding the yeast-and-wmer mixture.
hook attached.
! The dough before rising.
4. Punching down the risen dough:
a) Pressing down on the center of the dough with your fist.
1 Scaling the dough.
6. Rounding the rolls.
b) Folding the edges of the dough in toward the center.
7. Egg-washing the rolls.
920 '""" CIW'TER 31 ============= ~ =========== RECIPE 3 1. 3
LIGHT
RYE BREAD
Yield: 2 L'uge Loaves
Method:S~
Unbleached wheat flour
/ . Rye bread starter.
4)0 g
Medium rye flour
lib. 8 oz.
Dark molasses
3 oz.
90g
Water, warm
lib. 4 oz.
Active dry yeast Nonfat dry milk
112 oz.
;60 ,j 15 g 45 g
Caraway seeds, cnlshed Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. 1 Tbsp. I Tbsp. as needed
I 1/2 oz.
Unsalted butter, melted Egg wash
225 g
JO ,j 15 Illi 15 IllI as needed
I . Stir the flours together and set aside.
2. To make the sponge, combine the molasses, water and yeast. Add. ounces (225 grams) of the flour mixture. Stir vigorously for 3 minlU!. Cover the bowl and set aside 10 rise until doubled and vcry bubbly, .. proximately 1 hour.
3. Stir the milk powder, caraway seeds, salt and buner into the sponge. 4. Gradually add the remaining fl our to the sponge. When the dough is 10) stiff to mix by hand, transfer the dough to a mixer flued with a ckqII hook.
5. Continue adding flou r until the dough is stiff but slightl}' tad,-)". Kneadkt 5 minutes on low speed. 6. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased bowl, cover and place in a WlII place until doubled, approximately 45-60 minutes. 7. Punch down the dough and divide into two pieces. Shape each piece irII a round loaf and place on a sheet pan that has been dusted with cornmci or lightly oiled. Brush the 10:lves with egg wash and let rise until cloul*d. approximately 45 minutes. 8. Slash the tops with a razor or knife. Bake at 375°F (l90°C) until gokIeI brown and crusty, approximately 25 minutes.
2. Mixing the rye dough.
sat_.
Approximate I':llues per lIlO-loaf slice, Calories tOO, TOlal fal 1.5 g. Sa.turall-d hI 0 g, CboIIM 15 mg, Sodi um 370 mg, Tow carboh)·dr.ucs 31 g, PTOIcin 6 g. Claims--ww f~t; no low cholesterol
3. Shaping the rye loaves.
R OLLED-IN D OUGHS
•
.h-,
Baked goods made with rolled-in doughs include croissants, Danish paSIllI and rhe nonyeast-leavened puff pastry. (Puff pastry is discussed in Chapll1.u. Pies, Pastries and Cookies.) The dough is so named because the fat is imf. porated through a process of rolling and folding. Products made with a rc&J. in dough have a distinctive flaky texture created by the repeated larering cI fat and dough. As the dough bakes, moisture is released from the fat in Ibr form of steam. The steam is then trapped between the layers of dough. Cll& ing them to rise and separate.
J'EtlST BREADS C""'2\.
921
.I/aking Rolled-In Dougbs Rolled-in doughs are made following most of the iO production stages disearlier. TIle principal differences are (I ) the butter is incorporated
~
ugh a turning process after the dough base is fermented and punched OOI\"n; (2) rolled-in doughs are portioned somewhat differently from other ~
doughs; and (3) the portions are then shaped without rounding.
Buner is often used for rolled-in products because of its fla vor. UnfortuQ3(dy. buner is hard to work with beamse it cracks and breaks when cold :lnd
becomes \00 soft to roll :11 room lemper'dture. Margarine, shortening or specUlly formulated high-moisture f:.ts can be used, sometimes in combination .ith buUC1, in ordel \0 reduce costs or \0 make it easier to work with the
"gh. The dough base should not be kne:l
PiocEoURE FOR PREPARI ~G ROLLED-"' DOUGHS 1. MLx the dough and allow it to rise. l Shape the bUller or shonening, then chill it.
Roll out the dough evenly, then top with the chilled butter. Fold the dough around the butter, enclosing it completely. 1. Rollout the dough into:1 reclangle, aboUl 1/4 10 1/2 inch (.6 to 1.25 centimeters) thick. Always be sure to roll at right angles: do n01 roll haphazardly or in a circle as you would pastry doughs. , Fold the dough in thirds. Be sure to brush off any excess flour from between Ihe folds. This completes the first turn. Chillihe dough for 20 to 30 minutes. ~ Roll out the dough :lnd fold it in the same manner a second and third time, allowing the dough to rest between each turn. After completing the third tum, wrap the dough carefully and allow it to rest for severa l hours or ol'ernight before shaping and b:lking. j. .j.
=== ~ =========== ~ ============ RECIPE 3 1.4
CROISSANTS Method: Rolled-in
'kid: 60 Rolls
Bread flollr Sal!
Gr.lnulated sugar ~hlk
Actil"c dry ~'east
l'nsahed butler, softened Egg wash
2 lb. 4 oz. 1 oz. 6 oz. 1Ib.60z. 1 0z. lib. Soz. as needed
1 kg
30 g 170 g 625 g 30g
680g as needed
1. Stir the flour, .s
hook. CO li/iI/lied
TilE CULTURED CROISSANT'
A croissant brings to mind a ?arisian sidewalk cate and a steaming cup of caf~ creme. It is. hQl\'e\'er, a truly international delicacy. Created by bakers in Budapest (Hungary) to relebrate ~}f city"S liberation from lUrkey in 1686, it<; shape was derkoo from the crescent moon of the Thrkish flag. The delicaq' was soon adopted as a breakfast pastry by both the French and the Italians. The first machine for mass-producing croissants was designed b)' a Japanese firm and manufactured in Italy. Although croissants became popular in this country onl}' during the last decade or SO, AmeriC:lnS Ilt)\\' con· sume millions of croissants each year.
922 ",""
CIIAPl1iJI 31
2. Warm the milk 10 approximately 90°F (32°C). Stir in the yeast.
3. Add the milk-and-yeasl mixture to the dry ingredients. Stir umil C(IlJ. bined, then knead on second speed for iO minutes. 4. Place the dough in a large floured bowl, cover and let rise until dol.iitI in size, approxim:lIcly 1 hour. 5. Prepare the bu\{cr while the dough is rising. place the bUller in
even layer between
(Wo
l:trge pieces of plastic wmp and roll into l ftI
rectangle, approximately 8 x 11 inches (20 x 27.5 cenlimeter;lllll
chill. 6. After the dough h:ts riscn, punch it down.
I~oll Qlli the dough inIo I large rcaangie, about 1/2 inch ( 1.25 centimeters) thick and large erIOOPi to enclose the recl:mgle of butter. Place the unwrapped buner in IIr center of the dough and fold the dough around the butler, enclo$in~ I completely.
7. Roll out the block o f dougb into a long redangle, about 1 inch (2.5 l\'lltimeters) thick. Fold the dough in thirds, as if you were folding l I«td. nlis completes the first turn. Wrap the dough in plastic and chill foc approximately 20-30 minutes.
8. Repeat the rolling and folding process twO more times. chilling the ~ between each Illrn. When finished, wrap the dough well and chilli overnight before shaping and baking. 9. To shape the dough into croissant rolls, CUI off one quarter of the ltd: at a time, wrapping and returning the rest to the rcfrigeralOr. Rdl tali quaner of dough into a large reaangle, about 1/4 inch (6 milli!lX1t'!'o thick.
10. Cut the dough into uniform triangles. Stalling with the large end. roll 00 triangle into a crescent and pl:tcc on a paper-lined sheet pan.
11. Brush lightly with egg wash. Proof until doubled, but do nOl. allow tbt dough to become so warm that the butter melts.
12. Bake al 375°F (I90°C) until golden brown, approximately 12-1:> minUk1
J. Rolling out the butter between
Approximate '
two sheets of plastic wrap.
\
2. After positioning the butter on the rolled-aul dough, folding the dough around the butter.
j. Brushing the excess flour from the rolled-out dough.
4. Folding the dough in thirds.
JW7 BREALl5 "".
923
/ S The finished croissant dough.
TABlE
31.4
6. Cutting the dough into trbngles.
.n-, TROUBI.ESIiOOTING CihlRT
Solution
Problem Cannonoo.lJ of dough
Cru:.ilOO pale
~
7. Baked croiss.1nlS.
\00 dark
Top crust SCP;Ir;JtCS from rest of loaf
~ of loaf are lTAcked Dense tex\ure
lopes of undercooked dough
Too much flour forced into the dough Oven temperature too low Dough overproofed Oven tOO hot Too much sugar in the dough Dough improperly shaped Crust nOt slashed properly Dough drk-d out during proofing Bread expanded afler crust had fom\ed NOI enough yeast NOI enough fermentation lime Too much salt Insufficient kneading
running through the product
fref..form looT spreads and flattens ~ holes in bread
&i.qers on crust
Insufficient rising time Oven 100 hot Dough tOO soft Too much ye:ISI Overkneaded Inadequate punch-down Too much liquid Improper shaplOg Too much steam in oven
Gradually a.dd w:l1er; adjust formu13 Adjust o\'en Proof only until almost doubled, then bake immediately Adjust oven Adjusl fomlUla or measure sugar carefully Shape dough carefully S!:tsh dough 10 a depth of 1/2 in. (1.25 em) Cover dough during proofing Sl:lsh tOp of loaf before baking Adjust formula or measure yeast carefully Let dough rise until doubled or as directed Adjust formula or measure salt carefully Knead dough until it is smooth and clastic or as directed Allow adequate time for rising Adjust oven Add flour Adjust fonnula or measure yeast C'Arefully Knead only as directed Punch down properly to knead OUi excess air before shaping Measure ingredients carefully Knead oul excess air before shaping R(.'uuce :Ilnoum of steam or moisture in onm
fiONCLUSION ..m-, fresh yeast breads are a popular and inexpensive addition (0 any me nu and an'surprisingly easy to prepare. By understanding and appreciating the imp:xtance of each of the ten production stages described in this chapter, yOLl
924 ,"""
CIWlER 31
will be able ro create and adapt formu las to suit your specific op,rn,"". needs.
FOR DiSCUSSION
.n-.
I. Describe the characteristics of lean and rich doughs, and give an example of each. 2. Explain the ditlerences between active dry yeast and compressed )'easL
Describe the correct procedures for working with these yeasts. 3. Explain (he differences between a SJXlnge and a sourdough starter. HO'/I'IS each of these items llsed? 4. Describe the straight dough mixing method, and give two examples of products made with this procedure.
; , Briefly describe the procedure for making a rolled-in dough, and gire ,,"'0 examples of products made from rolled-in doughs. 6. US! the ten production stages for yeast breads. Which of these productioo stages would also apply to quick bread production? Explain rour answer.
~c;;iDD17JONAL YE4ST BREAD FORMUlAS
t
...
••
",.,
RECIPE 31 .;
__
BASIC FRENCH BREAD
Yield: 5 lb. (2.2 kg) Water, warm Active dry yeast
Bread flour Salt
Method: Straight Dough 1 qL
lit
1 oz. 3 lb. 12 oz. I oz.
30 g 18 kg
JOg
1. Combine the wmer and yeast in a mi.'(er bowl. Add the remaining . ems and mix on low speed with a dough hook until all the flour is ino:f. porated. 2. Increase 10 second speed and knead the dough until it is SIl1OClO! :IIId elastic. 3- Let the dough rise until doubled. Punch down, divide, shape and slash as desired. Let rise again until doubled. 4. Place a pan of water in the oven to generate steam while the dough ria. 5. Bake at 400"F (200"C) unlil the crust is well developed and golden broq and the bread is baked through, approximately 12 minutes for rolls and JI minutes for small loaves. .... ppro~imate V;llues per I 1/2-oz. (40-g) serving: CaJories BO. Total fal 0 g, Saturated fat 0 g. Ott le!>terol 0 mg. SQdium I3S mg. Total carbohydn.te!i 16 g. Protein 3 g. CIa ims--fJt frtt: t. sodium: no sugar
1====== _. ======= RECIPE 31.6
WHITE SANDWICH BREAD Method: Straight Dough
Yidd: 2 Large loaves
\rater, warm \'onf31 dry milk
12 oz.
340 ml
1 1/4 oz.
3; g
1 oz. 2 tsp.
Aaive dry yeast Bread flour UllS:llted butter, softened
1 lb. 8 oz. I oz.
30g 10 Ill! 15 g 680g 30g
Eggs
2
2
Granulated sugar
Sait
1/2 oz.
1. Combine the waler, milk, sugar, snit. yeas! and 12 ounces (340 grams) of
Rour. Blend well. Add the butter and eggs and beat for 2 minutes. l Stir in the remaining flour, 2 ounces (60 grams) a l a time. Knead for 8 minutes. j Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover and leI rise at room tempemture until doubled, approximately 1 to 1 112 hours. t Shape into loaves and let rise until doubled. 1 Ibke al 400°F (2()OOC) if free-form or small lo.wcs j bake at 375°F 090°C) if larger loaves. Bake until brown and hollow sounding, approximately 35
minlUes fo r small loaves and 50 minutes for large loaves. \'.w.mm.·: W'hole wheat-Substitute up to 12 ounces (340 grams) of whole ,heal flour for an equal amount of the bread nour. .\pproXUlIl!C '':lluC5 per 2-07.. (62.g) serving: C:llorics ISO. TOlal f~1 2 g, Saturated fat 1 g, Ch oIIsItroI 25 mg. Sodium 2SO mg, Total carboh )'drates 28 g. Protei n 6 g. Vitamin A 4%. Clai ms--
.. "
=========== c~ ============ RECIPE 31.7
ENGliSH M UFFIN LOAVES Yield: 2 Large Loaves
Method: Straighl Dough
Active dry yeast Granulated sugar Blking soda :;ali AlI·purpose flour
112 oz.
Milk
I pI.
Water Cornmeal
4 oz. asneedcd
I Thsp. 1/4 ~p.
2 [Sp.
lIb. 8 oz.
15 g 15 ml 1 tnl 10 IllI
720g 500 tnl 120 tnl as needed
1. Stir logether the yeast, sugar, baking soda, sa lt and 12 oz. the nour. 1 Combine the milk and waler and heal 10 120°F (50°C).
(360 grams) of
COllfirllled
926
~.
C1W'TER 31
J. Stir the warm liquids into the dry ingredients, beating well. Add enough Ii the remaining flour to make a stiff haner. 4. Spoon the bauer into lo.1f pans Ihat have ~n greased and duSied ,111 cornmeal. Proof until it doubles. 5. Bake at 4000F (200°C) until golden brown and done. approximald}' !' minutes, 6. Remove the bread from the 1J.1ns immediately and cool. Appro:o;imale \';d llC§ per 1/ 12 Ioof: Calorle!l 119, TOIai (:It I g. Satur.atcd fat .5 g. Cholestc:rol 3 Sodium 202 mg, Toul carboh),dn.tes 23 g. Protein 4 g
RECIPE 31.8
POTATO CHEDDAR CHEESE BREAD STOUFFER
STAI~FO RD
COURT,
M~
FRA,\"ClSOO, CA
Former E.reculhre CbeJErcolillo Crugl/a/e
Yield: 7 I-lb. 4-oz. (600-g) Loaves WIater, warm (lOO°F/ 38°C) Active dry yeast Bread flour Potatoes, boiled, peeled and pur[>ed Kosher salt Cracked pepper Unsalted buner, melted Cheddar cheese, graled Water, room temperature
Method: Straight Dough Soz. 2 oz. 4 lb. S oz. 2 lb. I 1/2 oz. I oz. 3 oz. l Ib.
225 ml
60g 2.2 kg
I kg
45 g 109
90g
;oog 500m!
I pI.
1. Dissolve the yeast in the warm water and set aside. 2. Combine the flour, potatoes, salt, pepper, bUller and cheese. Blend on los
speed for 2-3 minutes. 3. Slowly add the room-temperature w,lter and the ye,ISt mixture. Mix 00 medium speed for 8- 10 minutes, 4. Allow the dough to rise in a warm spot until doubled, approximate~' ! hours. Punch down the dough and divide into loaves. 5, Proof in a flou r-dusted banneton until doubled in size, approxim':lle~' rl minutes. Remove the proofed dough from the banneton and bake at35O'f CloocC) until brown, approximately 20--30 minutes, Appro:o;ima!l' 1'3.llIC§ per 1 t/2-oz, (50--g) SCl'\'ing: Calories ISO, Total fat 3.; g. Saturated fa! 1 g. Qt lesterol 10 mg, SodluDl 280 mg, TOIal carboh)'drates 25 g, I'rolc:ln 6 g, Cakium 10'1\ a..low cholesterol
RECIPE 31.9
S UNDRIED TOMATO ROLLS Yield: 20 Rolls Bread flour Semolina flou r Sundried tomatoes, diced fine
Mt:thod: Straight Dough 12 oz. 1/2 c.
360 g
311)sp.
45 ml
120ml
rFA57 BRWJS
Granulated sug:lr Acti\·e dry yeast Salt Garlic. minced Whole buner, softened W'3ter. warm
2 Thsp. I 1/ 2 ISp. I 1/2 !Sp. I !Sp_ I oz. 10 oz.
30ml 8ml 8ml
5 ml
JOg 300 ml
l. Combine all the ingredicnls using the w aight dough method. Knead until
1 j.
t
t
smooth and clastic, approximately 10 minutes. PLlce the dough in a tightly greased bowl. cover and proof until it doubles. Punch down the dough and proof a second timc. Punch down the dough again and divide into I I/2·ounce (45-gram) portions. Round the dough :lnd shape liS desired. Proof until the rolls double in size, approximately 20 minutes. Bake m 400°F (200 Q C) until golden brown and done, approximately 18 minutes.
lpproxim;llC \':lIues per roll, Calo rtcs 94. TOIaJ fat 1.5 1.1, Saturated fat .8 g. Cholesterol 3 mg. Sedium n mg, TOIaI carboh)'d rates 17 g. Protein 3 g
RECI PE 31.10
WHOLE WHEtIT
BREAD Yield: 2 Large Lo~lVes or 35 Dinner Rolls
Salt :-':onfat dry milk \Thole wheat flour Water, hot Actil'e dry yeast Honey Unsalted bulter, softened Whole butter, melted
Method: Straight Dough 2 !Sp. I 1/4 oz. I lb. 10 oz. I lb. 2 oz. 1/2 oz. 3 oz. I oz. as needed
10 ml 35 g 780 g 540 ml 15 g 90g 30 g as needed
I. In a large mixer bowl, combine the sa lt and dry milk with 12 ounces (340 grnms) of flour. 1 Stir in the hot Water. yeaSI, honey and softened bUller. Beat until combined illlo a thick ballerlike dough. j Add the remaining flour 2 ounces (60 grams) at a time. Knead about 8 min-
.".
t Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl and cover. Let rise in a wann
place until doubled. 1 Punch down, panion and shllpe as desired. , Let the shaped dough rise until doubled. Bake at 3i5°F (l90°C) umil firm and rurk brown, approximately I hour for loaves and 20 minutes for rolls. Brush the top of the loaves or rolls with melted bUller after baking if desired. JAIoxjm:Itr \":llues per 1 1/ 2-02. (46-8) serving' Calorie!! 170. Total fat 2 g, Samrated fat I g. ChoBrroI S mg. Sodium 250 mg. Total carbo h ydratcs 32 8. Prote ill 6 g. Claims-low fal: tow sa!U.-d fIt low chotL."tCrot; ROOO source of fiber
927
928 """
CJW'l1!R 31
RECI PE 31.11
M ULTIGRAIN DATE BRFAD Yield: 2 Small Loaves Dates, chopped Bread flour Active dry yeast \XI,tter, warm Honey Unsalted bUller, melted Nonfat dry milk Salt Whole wheat flour Rye flour Wheat gem) Bran flakes, toasted Sesame seeds Egg wash Poppy or sesame seeds
Method: Straight Doogb 8 oz. I lb. 8 oz.
1/2 oz. I pI. 4 oz. 2 oz. I 114 oz. I ·Ibsp. 6 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. 2 Thsp. as needed 21b~p.
225 g
680g 15 g 430ml 120 g 60g 35 g 15 Illl ISO g 60g 60g 60S 30 ml as needed 30 ml
1. In a small bowl, combine the dates with 2 ounces (60 grants) of the brtaII flour; toss to coat and set aside. 2. In a large mixer oowl , dissolve the yeast in the wann waler. Add die honey, bUller, milk ~wder, sail and whole wheat flour. Beat at mediII speed for 2 minutes. J. Stir in the rye flou r, wheat genn, bran flakes, ses.1me seeds and date nit lUre. 4. Slowly add enough of the rem:tining bread flour to make a so~ OOJgIL Knead until smooth and elastic, approximately 5 minutes. 5. place the dough in a lightly greased bowl and cover. Allow 10 rise urd doubled, approximately I 1/2 hours. 6. Punch down the dough and knead for a few seconds. 7. Divide the dough in half. Shape e,lch piece and place in a lightly grea!fd loaf pan. Cover and allow to rise until almost doubled, approximaltil'4S minutes. 8. Slash the top of the loaves as desired and lap with egg wash and IXWf or sesame seeds. Bake at 375°F (190°C) until golden brown and firm, .. proximately 40 minutes. Loaves should be dry and sound hollow wbel tapped on the bouom. Remove the loaves from the pans to cool. Approximate values per 2 In-oz. (8G-g) 5eT\'ing, CalorlC$ 270, T()laI lal -4.5 g, SatUt:llltd bl lg. a. 1C$lerol 30 mg, Sodium 400 mg, T()b l earbc:>h}"drale5 49 g, Protein 8 g, Caklum 11M
= = = = = = """'V'?' = = = ==
=
RECIPE 31.12
BRFADSTICKS Yield: 24 Breadsticks Active dry yeast \Valer, warm
Method: Straight Doogh 1/2 oz. 10 oz.
15 g 300ml
'1ill7 BRiWJS '"""
I oz. 4 oz. 2 lSp. I lb. 2 oz. as needed 3lbsp.
Gmnulated sugar Olil'eoil Salt Bread flour Egg wash Sesame seeds
929
30g 120 ml 10 ml
540 g as needed 45 ml
I. Stir the yeast, water and sugar together in a mixer Ix>wl. l. Blend in the oil, salt and 8 ounces (225 grams) of the flour. j. Gradually add the remaining flour. Knead the dough until it is smooth and cleans the sides of the bowl, approximately 5 minutes. t Remove the dough from the bowl and allow it to rest for a few minutes. Roll the dough into a rectangle, about 1/4 inch (6 millimeters) thick. 5. Cut the dough into 24 even pieces. Roll each piece into a rope and Twist; bring the ends together, allowing the sides 10 curl together. Place on a paper-lined sheet pan. ~ Brush with egg wash and top with sesame seeds. Let the sticks rise until doubled, approximately 20 minutes. 7, Bake at 375°F (190°C) umil golden brown, approximately 12-15 minutes.
,'.Ul"noI'S; Garlic breadsticks-Knead I ounce (30 grams) grated Parmesan and 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) minced garlic into the dough. tlerbed breadsticks-Knead 3 tablespoons (45 milliliters) chopped fresh rerbs such as basil, parsley, dill and oregano into the dough.
1. Rolling brcadstick dough.
2. Twisting breadstick dough.
~lC I';ltues per ~dSlick, Calories 60. Tou! fat 5 g, Saturated fat ] g, Choleste rol 10 mg, $ad/wn 190 mg, Total carboh)'drates 2 g. Prote in I g. Claims-low satUr.lled fat; low cholesterol
=========== ~ ============
---
RECIPE 31.13
A
••
FOCACCIA ( R OMAN FIA1'BREAD)
Yield: 1 Sheet Pan (12 in. (30 em x 45 em)
Granulated suga r Active dry yeast Water, lukewarm All-purpose flour Kosher salt Onion, chopped fine Olireoil fresh rosemary, crushed
x 18 in.)
Method: Straight Dough 1 Tbsp. 1 TI)Sp. 12 oz. I lb. 2 oz. 2 lSp. 3 oz. 2lSp. 2 Tbsp.
15 ml 15 ml 340 ml 540 g 10 ml
90g 10 ml 30m]
I. Combine the sugar, yeast and water. Stir to dissolve the yeast. Stir in the
flour 4 ounces (120 grams) at a time. 2 Stir in 1 1/2 teaspoons (7 milliliters) of salt and the onion. Mix well, then knead on a lighlly floured board until smooth. j. Place the dough in an oiled bowl, cover and let rise un(il doubled. t Punch down the dough, then nallen it onto an oiled sheet pan. It should be no more than I inch (2.5 centimeters) thick. Brush the top of the dough with the olive oil. Let the dough proof until doubled, alx>ut IS minutes. Comillued
Topping the f1atbread dough with crushed rosemary.
930 ,"""
C/1AP/7iR 31 5. Sprinkle the crushed rosemary and remaining 1/2 teaspoon (2 millililerslli salt on lOp of the dough. Bake at 400°F (200°C) umil lightly browned. ipproximately 20 minUics.
no.
Approxim:nc V:dll~'S (X"r 1-07.. (32-g) scrving: Calories tOO, Total fat 0.5 g, SalUrlued fat 0 8 Clto 1es terol 0 mg. Sodium 230 mg, Total carbohydrates 21 g. Protein 3 /0:, Cblms-]()\1,' Ill.
rated f~l; no cholesterol
=======
--..p, ======
RECIPE 3 1.1 4
P,ZZA DOUGH Method: Stldight Doogh
Yield: 1 Large o r 8 Individual Pizzas
Water, warm Active dry yeast
2 oz. 1 Thsp.
Bread flour
14 oz. 6az.
Water, cool Salt
60mI 15ml 420 g 180m]
51111 30 m! 15 ml
1 tsp. 1 oz. 1 Thsp.
Olive oil Honey
1. Stir the yeast iOlo the warm water 10 dissolve. Add the flour.
2, Stir the cool water, saIl, olive oil and hon~ into the flour mixture. Knead with a dough hook or by h:tnd until smooth and elastic, approximat~ 5
minutes,
3. place the dough in a lightly greased bowl and cover. Allow the dough b rise in a warm place for 30 minutes. Punch down the dough and dn* into ponions. The dough may be wrapped and refrigerated for up to flO days. 4. On a lightly floured surface, rol! the dough into very thin rounds and tqI as desired. Bake at 400°F (200°C) until crisp and golden brown, ~pjlIOII mately 8-12 minutes. Approximate \"31m'$ per 2..oz. (S&g) serving' Calorleli no. Total f31 4 g. S3IUr.II<"d bI 0'; ~
lesll'rol 0 mg, SodIum 290 mg, Tom l carboh}"dr:lIe5 4t g. PTl)(l'in 6 g.
a.
Cbl~· SI.'IJIWd!&
no cholesterol
============= ~ ===========
RECIPE 31.1 ;
BASIC SOURDOUGH BREAD Method: Sponge
Yield: 2 L1rge Loaves
Active dry yeast Water, warm Sourdough Staner (Recipe 31, I) Honey Bread flour Kosher salt Distilled vinegar Baking soda
IThsp.
15 m1
12 oz.
340m]
Ie.
225 ml 15 ml
I 'lbsp.
lib. 6 oz. I 1/2 tsp.
660g 7m]
oz.
30m]
1/2 tsp.
2m]
I
I . Prepare a sponge by mixing the yeast, water, sourdough staner and
honer
Stir in 4 ounces (120 grams) of flour. Beat vigorously by hand or in a mils on second speed for 3 minutes.
IW7BRWJS
1. Place the sponge in a clean bowl and cover. Set aside until doubled, approximately 1-2 hours. j. Place the risen sponge into the bowl of a mixer fined with a dough hook . Add the S.1lt . vinegar and baking soda. Gr.lduall}' add enough bread flour to. make a stiff dough. Knead for 3 minUles on second speed. TIle dough mid clean the bowl, forming :1 ball around the dough hook. t Allow the dough to rest for 5 minutes. 11len shape into 2 round or oval Ioal'es and pl:tce on a b.1king sheet that has been dusted with cornmeal. .s. Corer the dough and set aside to proof until doubled, approximately 45 minutes. Slash the top of the lOaves. , Bake thc brc,ld for 10 lILillutc~ ill 1I 450°F (230°C) oven with stt':
RECIPE 3 1.1 6
SAN FRANCISCO SOURDOUGH B READ STOUFFER STANFORD COURT,
s.1..~
FRI..'>CtSCO, CA
Fomler £xoculi/le CbefErcoIitlo Cmglla/e '~Ield:
~let h od:
1 Loaf
Water, warm (I20°F/4C)OC) Actil'e dry yeast Sourdough StaTter (recipe fo.llo.ws) Bread flour Kosher salt Egg white. beaten
Bo.z. 112 oz.
SIr'Jight Dough
I Thsp.
225 ml 15 g 225 ml 450 g 15 ml
I
I
I e.
lIb.
I. Sprinkle the dry yeast over 2 o.unces (60 grams) of the W;lrm water and set aside until dissolved and fo.amy. 1. In the bowl o.f a mixer fitted with the dough hook, co.mbine the sourdough starter and the remaining warm water. Add 6 o.unces (ISO grams) of bread flo.uT. j. Stir until a do.ugh farms , then add the yeast mixmre. Knead far 5 minutes on medium speed. 4. Add the remaining fl o.ur :lOd salt. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic, approximately 10 minutes. S. P13ce the dough in a lightly greased bowl and cover with a damp cloth. Let rise in a waml pl:tce, about sooF-90°F (27°C-32°C), until doubled. , Punch dawn the dough and shape it into. a round loaf. Place the loaf a n a greased and cornmeal-dusted sheet pan. 1. tet the lo.:lf rise in a w'lrlll place, covered with a damp cloth, until it has risen to 2 1/2 times ilS o.riginal size. S. Brush the risen loaf with the beaten egg white and score the top of the looJ with a simp knife. CO l/til/ lied
~.
931
932 '"""
ClW'lfR 31
9. Bake at 450°F (230°C), with a pan of boiling water underneath the 01"5 rack, for 10 minutes. 10. Reduce the oven temperature 10 375°F (I90°C), remove the water Ii continue baking until the loaf is well browned, approximately 3)-lS utes.
.,00._
Approximate I':llues per 2-oz. (6I).g) serving: Calorics 135. Tow r:l.1 .5 g. SalUr1lttd fJI terel O mg. Sodium 355 mg, Tow carbohyd r.IICS Z1 g. Prott'in 4 g. Claims------Jo." bl; no cholesterol
SOURDOUGH STARTER Grapes, off the stem Water, warm ( IOO°F/300C) Bread flour
lib. as needed 12oz,
450 g as needed 340 g
1. Mash the grapes thoroughly and place in a covered container, Set room temperJture for 48 hours. (Red grapes will give some coloring t juice; this will be eliminated gradually with continued feeding.) 2. Strain off the fermented juice and discard the pulp. Add enougb water to the juice to make I pint (450 milliliters). 3. Stir in the flour, cover and leave at room temperature overnight. 4. Replenish with I pint (450 milliliters) of warnl water and 12 III grams) of flour daily if the staner is kept at"room temperature. If kepi. frigerated , replenish twice weekly.
0"""
Approximate \"alues per I..w.. (3O-g) .'iO'VIOg, Calories 60, TOI:aJ f:l.1 0 g. SalUraltd fat Gg. cere l 0 mg, Sodium 0 rug, Total carbo hr dr.IICS 12 g, ProCcin 2 g
.....".., ====== RECIPE 3 1.1 7
CHAllAH Challah is the tradi/iollal bread for jewisb Sabbaths alld celebra/;O'IS Ricb witb eggs (/lid flavored with !JOlley, it is braided illto ovalloa~'eS tiM topped with poppy or sesame seeds. C/)al/ah is excellellt for toast or sand· wicbes. Yield: 2 Large Loaves
Method: Straight Dough
Honey Sal! Bread flour Active dry yeaSt Water, warm
6 o z.
ISO g
1 Thsp. 1 lb. 12 oz. 1/2 oz. 14 oz.
15 ml
Eggs
4
Unsalted buner, melted Egg wash Sesame or poppy seeds
4 oz. as needed as needed
800g
15 g 400 ml 4 120 g as needed
os oeed
1. Stir together the honey, salt and 8 ounces (225 grams) of flour in 3 mim bowl. Add the yeas!, water, eggs and butter. Stir until smooth.
2. Using the dough hook, knead the dough o n second speed, adding !he Iflnaining flour 2 o unces (60 grllms) at a time until smooth and elastic, 3pproximately 5 minutes.
IFAST BRWJS '""" j. Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover and leI rise until doubled,
approximately I to 1 ]/2 hours. t Punch down Ihe dough and divide into 6 equal ponions. Roll each ponion into a long strip, about 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) in diameter and 12 inches UO centimeters) long. lay 3 strips side by side and braid. Pinch the ends together and tuck them under the loaf. Place the loaf on a paper-lined
sheet pan. Braid the 3 remaining pieces of dough in the same manner.
S. Brush the loaves with egg wash and sprinkle with sesame or poppy seeds. Proof until doubled, approximately 45 minutes. t Bake a1 350°F (i70°C) until the loaves are golden brown and sound hollow whpn rh1Jm~d , ap proximately 40 minutes. IpproXimarc ";tiucs per 2-07.. (46-g) serving: Calories l56, Total fal 4 g, SalUr,l.ted fat 2 g, COOJcstrol 41 mg, Sodium 145 11l~, TOI:!.I carboh)'drales 25 g, PrOll'in 6 g
I. Rolling
challah dough imo ropes.
2. Braiding challah dough.
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 31.18
BRIOCHE Bn"oc/)e is a rich, tender bread made witb a ll abundance of eggs and butler. The high ratio of far makes this dough diffiC/ift to work with, bllt tbe flavor is wellivonb tbe exIra efforl. Bn'oche is traditionally made in JlII/ed jXlllS aud has a cap or topkl/ot of dough; this sbape is known as bn'ocbe a tete. tbe dough may also be baked ill a /oafpan, making il per-
fect for toast or cal/apes. Method: Straight Dough
Yield: 3 Large Loaves or 60 3-in. (7';-cm) Rolls
2 kg
All-purpose flour
41b. 7 oz.
Eggs Salt
24
24
1 3/ 4 oz. 7 oz. I 3/4 oz. 7 oz. 31b.
50 g 210 g 50 g
Granulated sugar Active dry yeast Water, warm Unsalted butter, room temperature
210 ml 1.3 kg Comilllled
933
934
~
CIIAPTER 31
2. Adding the yeasi-and-w:ltcr
1. Combining the ingredients for
brioche.
( ,
~"
.~ ..
mixture to the dough.
3. Brioche dough after kneading fer 20 minutes.
I . Place the flour, eggs, salt and sugar ima the bowl of a large mixer ftaed
with the dough hook. Stir the ingredients together.
.',
4. Adding the butter to the brioche dough.
Z. Combine the yeaSt and water and add to the other ingredients.
'
3. Knead for 20 minUles on second SI>Ced. The dough will be smooth. shim
and mois!. It should not form a ball. 4. Slowly add the buner to the dough. Knead only until all the burrer is jn.. corporatcd. Remove the dough from the mi.xer and place it into 3 00.1 dusted with flour. Cover and let rise al room lemper.lture Unlit doubled. 5. Punch down the dough, cover well and refrigerate overnight.
6: Shape the chilled dough as desired. Place the shaped dough in ~dI greased pans and proof at room temperature umil doubled. Do no: pan brioche in a very warm place; the butter may melt out of the dough m proofing is complete. 7. Bake at 375°F (l90°C) umil the brioche are a dark golden brown ml sound hollow. Baking time will vary depending on the tempernture cirlr dough and the size of the rolls or loaves being baked. VARIATION: Raisin brioche-Gently warm 3 ounces (90 milliliters) rum with 6 ounces (180 grams) raisins. Set aside until the !'"Jisins are plumped. Drain elf the remaining rum and add the raisins to the dough after the buner is iOOl· porated.
5. The finished brioche dough ready for fermentation.
Approximate I':liues per 4-o.z. (lIS·g) S(,'rvins: Calorl~ 475, Total fat 30 g, Saturated fat [" 1-- Qt leslerol 192 mg, Sodium 138 mg, Total ea rbohrdr:llC$ 43 g, Proleln 9 g, Vitamin A 30Ii lroII l/II-
6. Sh:lping the brioche ;\ tete.
7. Panning the rolls.
8. A finished loaf of brioche baked in a pullman p:m.
)fA5TBREWS
I====== ~ ====== RECIPE 31.19
J UMBO CINNAMON B UNS Method: Stra ight Dough
\1eld: 24 Large Rolls 111!er, warnl .iJI-purpose flour Granulated sugar Yeast 1 oz. Dry milk powder 5311
'IboIe butter, softened filling: Whole butter, softened Cinnamon, ground Brown sugar Raisins Powdered Sugar Glaze (recipe follows)
1 qt. 51b. 12 oz. 30 g I 1/4 oz. 1/4 oz. 10 oz.
I It 2250 g 360g
6 oz.
180 g 7g 180 g 120 g 450 ml
114 Ol. 6 oz. 4 oz. 1 pt.
37 g 7g 300g
L In a large mixer bowl. combine all the dough ingredients. Knead the dough
until it is smooth. 1. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover and leI rise umil doubled. J Punch down the dough and roll it out on a lightly floured surface. Shape uUo a rectangle, approximately 18 x 30 inches (45 x 75 centimeters). t Spread the 6 ounces (180 grams) of softened butter over the surface of the dough. Combine the cinnamon, brown sugar and raisins and sprinkle this mixture over the buner, covering the dough evenly. 1 St.lning with the longer Side, roll the dough into a spiral. Cut into 24 pieres, each approximately I 1/2 inches (3.75 centimeters) thiCk. Place the rolls, cut side up, on a paper-lined sheet pan and allow them to rise until doubled. , Bake at 3QO°F OSOOC) oven until golden brown and done, approximately jO minutes. i. Cool slightly, then top with Powdered Sugar Glaze. te
"*- m
\';ll~ per roll: Calories 656, Total fat t6 g, Salunned fal ]0 g, CholQu,rol 42 mg. mg, Total camoh)'draIQ 1]7 g. Protein LI g. Vilamin " t 1'16, Iron l7'Mt
POWDERED SUGAR GLAZE
"eld: 1 pI. (450 ml) PQwdered sugar, sifted
\'anil1a extract Lemon juice Water, warm
I lb. 2 tsp. 2 tsp. I oz.
I. Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Stir
450 g 10 ml 10 Illl 30 ml
(a blend thoroughly and dissolve any lumps. Cover and store at room temperature.
~.
935
936
CIIAPl1iR 31
RECIPE 31.20
P ECAN STICKY B UNS Yield: 12- 1; Buns
I . Brushing melted butter over the
st icky bun dough.
2. Rolling up the fi lling in the sticky
bun dough.
3. CUlling and panning the slicky buns.
Active dry yeaSI Sugar Salt Milk BUHermilk Vanilla Lemon zest, grated Lemon juice Egg yolks All-purpose fl our Unsalted butter, very soft Topping: Honey Brown sugar Pecans, chopped Filling: Cinnamon Pecans, chopped Brown sugar Unsalted butter, melted
Method: Straighti:loogb I oz. 2 oz.
1/2 ~p. I lbsp. ; 1/2 oz. ItSI'. 11bsp. IIsp. 2
14 oz. 8 oz.
6 oz.
JDg 60g 2 ml I; Illl 16; g 5 Illl I; ml ; ml 2 420 g 225 g
6 oz.
180 g l80g
3 oz.
90S
I 151'. 3 oz. 4 oz. 3 oz.
;ml
90S 120 g
90S
1. Stir the yeaSt. sugar, salt and milk together in a small bowl. Sct aside. 2. Stir the buttermilk, vllnilb , lemon zest and lemon juice together and adlll the yeast mixture. J. Add the eggs, flour :md softened butter to the liquid mixture. Tum w: onto a lightly floured boMd and knead until the bUller is evenly dislributt"J and the dough is smooth. Cover and let rise until doubled. 4. Prepare the topping and filling mixtures while the dough is rising. To ID2kt the topping, cream the honey and sugar together. Stir in the nuts. This mixture will be very stiff. To make the filling, stir the cinnamon, pecans m:! sugar together. 5. Lightly grease muffin cups, then distribute the lopping mixture {'\·erdr aboul 1 Illblespoon (I5 milliliters) per muffin cup. Set the pans aside II room temperalure until the dough is ready. 6. Punch down the dough and let it rest 10 mimlles. Roll out the dough iIlD a rectangle about 1/2 inch 0.25 centimeters) thick. Brush with the mel!a,l butter and tOp evenly with the filling mixture. 7. Starting with either long edge. roll up the dough. Cut into slices aOOJ 3/4-1 inch (1.8-25 centimeters) thick. Place a slice in each muffin CUpOltJ the topping. S. Let the buns proof until doubled, approximately 20 minutes. Bake at 3m (170°C) until vel)' brown, approximately 25 minutes. Immediately imt'l'i the muffin pans onlo p.'1pcr-lined sheet pans to let the buns and their tct ping slide out. Appro;o;im~le ' ·alues per roll: Catortes 41!Kl. Total fat 26 g, Saturated fat 11 g, Cholcsl~rol -, ~ Sodium 100 mg. Total carbohrdratcs 5; g, Protein 5 g. "jlaOlin A IS%. Iron l~
,_
BREADS , _
937
RECIPE 31.2 1
D ANISH PASTRIES Dallisb pastly lI'as aCfl/al1y creme([ by (/ Frellcb baker more tball 350 yt'tm: ago. Heforgot to Ill/eat! butter illto bis bread dOllgh (/nd alfempted
to coter the mist(lke by foldillg ill softened butter. 7bis ricb, flaky pastry is I/QU ' poplllar 1IV'.)lidll'ide for breakfasts, dessel1s a/1(1 sl/acks. tbe dougb may be s/)aped ill (/ Ilariety of ways a//(/ is /ls/lally filled il'ir/) j(/I/I. filii!. (/'('(/1/1 or marzipalJ.
DOUGH FOR DANISH PASTRIES Method: Rolled-in
Yield: 36 Pastries Acril'c dry yeast AII·purpo$C nom Gr:lnulated sugar \nter. warm Milk, warm Eggs, room temper.llure
1/2 oz. I lb. 4 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz. 2
2
~h
I tsp. I tsp. 1/2 tSp. I 1/2 oz. lib. as needed
5 ml 5 ml 2 ml 45 g 450 g as needed
\Jnilla extrJct Cinnamon. ground l'nsahed butter, melted L'nsahed butter, cold Egg wash
15 g
600g 120 g 120 ml 120 ml
/. [n a large bowl, stir together the yeast and 12 ounces (340 grams) of nom. Add the sugar, water, milk , eggs, £:111, vanilla, cinnamon and melted buner. Stir until well combined. l. Add in the remaining nOlLr gradually, kneading the dough by hand or with a ntixer nlled with a dough hook. Kne.td until the dough is smooth and only slight ly tacky to the louch, approximately 2-3 minutes. j. Place the dough in a bowl that has been lightly dusted with flour. Cover 3nd refrigerate for I to [ 1/2 hours. t Prepare the remaining butter while the dough is chilling. Stan by sprinkling flour over the work surface and placing the cold butter on the flour. Then pound the buller with a rolling pin until the butter softens. Using a pastry SCT:lper or the heel of your hand. knead the butter and flour until the mixture is spreadable. The butter should still be cold. If it begins to melt. refriger.ne it until nrm. Keep {he buller chilled until the dough is ready. 1 On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough into a large redangle about I 2 inch (1. 25 centimeters) thick. Brush away any excess flour. { Spread the chilled butter evenly over two thirds of the dough. Fold the unbonere
/,
Kneading the cold butter with the nom.
r
-
2. Spreading the butter over two thirds of the rolled-out dough.
3. Folding the dough in thirds to COlllil/ lled
cover the bUlter.
938
4. Rolling
,
CIW'ffR 31
OUI
the dough.
5. Folding the dough in thirds to
complete a turn.
6. ClIuing rectllngles of danish dough.
8. Shape and fill the danish dough
:tS desired. Place the shaped pastries 001 paper-lined baking shcct and allow 10 proof for approximately 15-20 minules. 9. Brush the pastries with egg wash and sprinkle lightly with sugar if de:sirl.'d. Bake at 400"F (200°C) for 5 minutes. Decrease the oven lempera~ 10 3500F (170°C) and b.1ke until light brown, approximaicly 12-15 minU1o.
Appro:umale V:lhJl,'S per roll. without filling: Calo ries 85. To tal fat I.; g. SaNralrd f:d 0 g. CIIob leroi 15 mg, Sodium 65 mg, Total carbohydratcs 15.5 g, Protein 2 g
FILUNGS FOR D ANISH PASTRIES 7. Piping the cream cheese fi!liog onlo the danish dough.
CRIMI CHEESE Yield: 26
oz. (780 g)
Cream cheese Granulated suga r Salt Vanilla extract Flour Egg yolk Lemon extract Lemon zest
I lb. 8 oz.
4;0 g 225 g
!/ 4 tsp. ! tsp. 2 Thsp.
I ml 5 ml
I
I 5m.1 !O ml
! (SP, 2 tsp.
30ml
I . Beat the cream cheese until light and fluffy, Stir in the remaining ingredieru.'
ALMOND CRIMI Yield : 16 oz. (450 g)
8. Shaping snails from danish dough.
Almond paste Unsalted bUller, soft Salt Vanilla Egg whites
IOOl .
300g
40l.
120 g I ml 5 mJ 2
1/4 !Sp. I tsp. 2
I , Blend the almond paste and butter until smooth. Add the salt and \'anil4 then the egg whites. l3lend well.
J1l<STBRWJS
APRICOT Y.~:
lib. (900 g)
Dried apricolS Or.mge juice
BOl.
Gl'lnulated sugar 5ah t:nsalted bUller
6oz. 1/4 ISp. 2 oz.
I pI.
225 g 450 ml 180 g lml
60g
1 Place me apricOls and orange juice in a small saucepan. Cover and simmer until the apricots are very tender, :Ipproximately 25 minutes. StiT in the sugar and salt. When the sugar is dissolved, add the butter and remove
from the heat. 1 Puree the mixture in a blender until smooth. Coo! completely before using.
.... ,
939
HAPTER
2
~ IE~
ASTRIES AND
00
Chefs SUSOtl Fenfger
anti Mary SlIe Alllllken, J.os Angeles, C4
=== - === After srudying Ihis chapter, you will be able to: ~ ~
prepare a variety of pie cmsts and fillings prepare a variety of classic pas(ries
~ ~ ~
prepare :1 vllriety of meringues prepare :1 variety of cookies prepare a variety of dessen and !Xlstry items, incorporating components from other chapters
elllion paSII)! 10 diners and 111051 COIijllrf I4J
images of bllttery dough baked to crisp flaky Pf!1jeclioll (/lid fllfed(l layered with rich cream, npefmil or smooth custard. MelltiollfX1Sh) 10 novice chefs and most cOlljure lip images of sophisticated. compln (mel intimidating work. Although the dil1e"~j are correct, the 110!lCf cbels are 1101. PasI IY making is (h(um a/creating cOlllafllersJora('(J' riely of jillil1gs. Takell olle Slep (If a time, most pastries are I/Oibing more than selected bIlilding blocks or componellfs assembled ill a1i1riely oj ways to create traditional or lInique ciesserls.
Perhaps the most impol1C1n l (and versatile) buildillg block is Ibt dough. Pas/lies CtlII be made witb jla~y dough, l1/ea~y dougb, sum clolIgb, puff pasoy, eclair dough or meringlle. See Table 32. 1, IJt. calise pies, fmts and cookies are cOllstructed /rom sOllie o/these SlImt doughs (prillcipally pie dough and sweet dough), they, {IS Il'elf as pit fillings. are discussed in the section on pies and /{1I1S; pllff passry eclair paste and baked meringue are discussed ill tbe SectiOIl 011 classic pastries. 1be cream, custard al/d mO/.lssejillillgs used ill sOlller! the recipes at tbe elld o/this chapter are disCl/ssed III Chaprer34. O/So tlIrds, Creams, Froze" Dessel1s and Dessel1 Sauces. Cakes and JrrN. fngs are covered ill Chapter 33.
PlES AND TARTS .P."J"-> A pic is composed of a sweet or savory filling in a b:Lked crust. It Cln ~ open-faced (witholLt a top cmst) or, more typically, topped with a full
TABLE
32. 1 "'"
CLASSIFICATION OF P,ISTRY DOUGllS
Dough
French Name
Ch;lfacteristics After Baking
Usc
Flaky dough Mealy dough Sweet dough ~:c1a ir paste Puff pastry
Pate Pate Pate Pate Pate
Meringue
Meringue
Very nakYi 001 sweet Moderately nakYi nOi sweet Very rich; crisp; nOi naky Hollow with crisp exterior Rich btu not sweet; hundreds of light. naky layers SW('''et; light; crisp or soft depending on preparation
Prebaked pie ~hells: pie tOP cru:.ts CUSlal'd, tre:lm or fruit pic crusts; quiche crust5 Tart :md tartlet shells Cream puffs; eclairs: savory produCts Tart and pastry cases; cookies; byered past~ 5:11'01')' producl;i Topping or icing: baked as a shell or componea: for layered desserts; cookies
brisCe brisee sueree a choux feuiHetce
PIES, PASmIES A.ND CYJ(J1JE5
. 943
Crusls PiecruS1S and Ian shells can be made from several types of doughs or crumbs. Flak)' dough, mealy dough and crumbs are best for pie crusts; sweet '*gil is usually used for tan shells. A pie crust or tan shell can be shaped lid romptelely baked before filling (known as baked blind) or filled and baked Simultaneously with the filling.
Bake bUnd-to btllie (I pie sMl before II is filial. Tbe dough is ojIelllill«1/tub parcbllletli /Xipt'r (lilt! jil/«IIf'ilb t!ri«1 berms or pie IltighJs 10 pm·etll/be cruS! from rising.
1iItj. mill Mealy Dougbs fbk)' and mealy pic doughs are quick, CllSY and versati le. Flaky dough, somc1Ire~ known as p:l1C brisee. takes its mIme from its final bllked texture. It is Ibt for piC tOP mIsts and buice coverings and may be used for prebakcd WIb Ih31 will be filled wilh a cooled filling shortly before service. Meal}' lbigh lakes its n:lIne from ils I'3W texture. It is used whenever a soggy crust .oold be a problem (for example, as the bottom crust of a custard or fruit pic) tJ:ousc it resists so:lking better than flaky dough. Both flaky and mealy .; gIls are too delicate for tarts tbat williX' removed from the pan for service. \,oj,t't't dough, described later, is lX'tler for these types of tarts. Flak)' and mealy dougbs contain little or no sugar and can be prepared m the same formul:t with only a slight \'ariation in mixing method. For both I!lb of dough. a cold fat , such as butter or shortening, is cut into the flour. Thfamount of flakiness in the baked cruSt depends on the size of the fat par0Clt'5 in the dough. 'nle larger the pieces of fal, the flakie r the crust will be. This ~ because the flakes are actually the sides of fat pockets created during It.aking b~' the melting fat and steam. When preparing flaky dough, the fat is i:fI in larger pieces, about the size of peaS or peanuts. When preparing mealy OOtigh, the f:lt is blended in more thoroughly, until thl:: mixllHl:: !1::!:>tl!lbltS CCW'SC cornmeal. Because the resulting fat pockets are smaller, the crust is less
Iokj. The type of fat used affects both the dough's flavor and flakiness. Buller mllriblltes a delicious flavor, but does not produce as flaky a crust as other bt, Butter is also more difficult \0 work with than other fats because of its kMcr melting point and its tendency to become brittle when chilled. Allpapose regetable shortening produces a flaky crust but contributes nothing .., 1\.\ flavor. The flakiest pastry is made with lard. Because some people disle il1. flavor for sweet pies, lard is more often used for p;lte en croute or uber Sl\"Ory prepaf"Jtions. Some chefs prefer to use a combination of bul1er Iih either shortening or lard. Oil is not an appropriate substitute as it dis~ 100 thoroughly through the dough; when baked, the crust will be stiff nl crisp. .lJter the fat is cut into the flour, water or milk is added to form a soft 4bJgh. Less water is needed for mealy dough because more flour is already in COOt.1ct with the fat, reducing its ability to absorb liquid. Cold water is normally 1I!c.'tl for IXlth flaky :lIld mealy doughs. The water should be well chilled to Fo-I!111 softening the fat. j\'lilk may be used to increase richness and nutritional • . It will produce a darker, less crisp crust, however. If dry milk powder is MI. it should be dissolved in the water first. !land mixing is best for sm:l ll to moderate quantilies of dough. You retain Itner control over the procedure when you can feel the fat being incorpolied It is very difficult to mllke flaky dough with al1 elemic mixer or food poccs,-;or, as they tend to Cllt the fat in tOO thoroughly. Overmixing develops b) much glutl!n, making the dough elastic and difficult to use. If an electric till'!' must be used for large quantities, use the paddle attachment at the lawai \fIl't.'
~ == OF TARTS AND TORTES
The names gil'ell 10 desserts can be rather confUSing. One COUllt!)' or region calls an item a lorlewhile another region calls the same item a gtUetm. The follcw.ing defini· tions are basffi on dassic tenns. You y.~I1 , no doubt, encounter variations depending on your location and the training of those with whom you ...'Ofk. Cake-In American and British usages, ClJke refers 10 a broad range of pastries, including layer cakes, coffee cakes and gil.!eaux. (flke may refer 10 almost everything th:u is baked, tender, sweet and sometimes frosted. BUI to the French, Ie Cllke is a loaf-shaped fruitcake. similar to an American pound cake with the addition of {ruil nu~ and rum. Giite-du-{pl. gr1Ieall.:r) To the French, gateau refers 10 various pastry items made with purr past!)', eclair paste, short dough or sweet dough. In America, gateau often refers 10 any cake-rype dessen. Pastry-p(/stry may refer 10 a group of doughs made primarily with flour, water and fat. PtlSlry can also refer 10 food<; made \\ith these doughs or 10 a large variety of fancy baked goods. Tart-A tart is a pastry shell filled with S\Io'eet or samr}' ingredients. Tarts have straight, shallow sides and are usually prepared open-face. In France and Britain, the term Oan is sometimes lISl'li to refer to the same items. Atartlet is a small, individualsized tan. Torte-In Central :md Eastern EUA}-
pean countries, a torle (pl.lortell) is a rich cake in .... hich all or part of the flour is replaced with finely chopped nuts or bread crumbs. Other cultUre<; refer 10 any round S\\'eet
cake as a torte.
944
~
ClW'TER 32
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING FuKY M'D MEALY D OUGHS
1. Sift flour, 5.111 and sugar Of used) together in a large bowl. 2. CUI the fat into the flour. 3. Gradually add a cold liquid, mixing gently until the dough holds Do not overmix. 4. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and chillthorollghly before using =============== .~ RECIPE 32.1
BASIC PIE DOUGH Yield: ) lb. (2.2 kg) Pastry fl OLir 5:111
31b. 4 LSp.
1300 g 20 ml
Gr:mulated sugar (optional) All-purpose shonening Water, cold'
2 oz. lIb. 8 oz. 8 oz.
60g 680 g 2;Oml
1. Sift the flour, 5.,lt and sugar together in a large bowl. 2. Cut the shonening into the flollr mixture until the desired consis!crK'!" reached. 3. Gradually add the cold water, mixing gently umil the dough holds t~ Do not overmix or add too much water. 4. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and chill thoroughly before using ]-(17.. (30-g) serving: Calories ]40. TOiat fal 9 g. Satur:ucd fa! !.\~, a. testerol 0 mg. Sodium 120 mg. Total carbo hyd ratC!l 14 g. Protein I g, Claims-no choIest<"d
Approxim:l!{, v:Jlues pt'T
sodium 'The :Jmount of water 11("(.'(k.-d varies ugh will probably not require the "mire 8 (lIJnC(''S (250 milliliters).
1. Cutting the fat into the flour
coarsely for flak y dough.
2. Cutting the fat into the flou r finely for mealy dough .
~
3. The finished dough.
Sweet DOllgb Sweet dough or pate suc..ee is a rich. nonflaky dough used for sweet WI shells. It is sturdier than flak y or mealy dough beC
PIEf, I'ASTRIES AND COOKIES ~~ ~ exce!lent
for t:tnlets as well as for straight-sided tarts Ihm will be remO\'ed
fIOO! their pans before service. Sweet dough crusts may be prebaked then ~ or filled and baked simultaneously with the filling. The raw dough may It kept refrigeraled up to two weeks or frozen up 10 Ihree months.
PI!ic!:DtJRE .-oR PREPARING SWEb, DOUGII L Cream softened butter. Add sugar and beat until the mixture is light and
fluffy. 1 Slowly add eggs, blending well. j.
Slowly add flour, mixing only until incorpordted. Overmixing toughens the
dough. t Corer the dough with plastic wrap and chill thoroughly before using.
====== ~, ======
RECIPE 32.2
SWEET DOUGH \kld, 7 lb. G. 1 kg)
l:nsahed buner, softened Powdered sug.·u Egg yolks Ifhole eggs AlI-purposc flour
I lb. Boz.
I lb. 5 oz. l ib.
2
3 lb. B oz.
675 g 580g 450 g 2 1600g
1. Cre:im Ihe butler :lIld
powdered sugar in :l I:lrge mi;xer bowl using the p:lcldie anachment. 1 Combine the egg yolks and whole eggs. Slowly add Ihe eggs to the creamed bUller. Mix until smooth and free of lumps, scrapir.g down the ~ides of the bowl as needed. j. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the flou r to the buncr-and-egg mixture. lI-1ix only until incorporated; do not overmix. The dough should be firm, smooth and not sticky. t DlISl a half-shcet pan with flour. Pack the dough into the pan evenly. Wr:1P welJ in plastic wrap and chill until firm. S \\~ork with a small portion of the chilled dough when shaping tart sheUs or other products. /ftIOIII!IJ!C l"alues per l-m. (30-g) serving: Calories 120. Total fat 5 g. Saturated fat 3 g, Choles· lflii I; mg, Sodium 0 mg, Total carbohyd rates 16 g. Protein 2 g. Vitami n A 4%
L MLxing sweet dough.
2. The finished sweet dough.
945
946 ,"""
CIW'l1iR 32
Shapillg Crusts Crusts are shaped by rolling out the dough to fit into a pie pan or t1J1 iIt (mold) or to sit on top of fillings. Mealy, flaky and sweet doughs are alraier to roll out and work with if well chilled, as chilling keeps the fat firm. prevents stickiness. When rolling and shaping the dough, work on a cbn. iI surface (wood or marble is best). I.ightly dust the work surface, rollingpiD. dough with pastry flour before starting to roll the dough. Also, wOO: !Ii' with a manageable amount al a time: usually one crust's worth for a JWQ' standard-sized tart or enough for 10- 12 IMlet shells. Roll out the dough from the center, working toward the edges. peri(xiak lift the dough gently and rotate it. TIlis keeps the dough from Sticking" helps produce an even thickness. If the dough sticks to the rolling pjnor~ut surface, sprinkle on a bit more flam. Too much flour, however, makes dr crust dry and crumbly and causes gmy strea ks.
PROCEDURE FOR ROLUNG AND SHAPING DOUGIl FOR PIE CRUSTS AND TART SIlELl.'i
1, A typical pie crust or
taft sbeII should be rolled to a thickness rI approximately 1/8 inch (3 mi1limeters); it should also be at least 2 inches (5 centimete!5) larger in diameter than tht bak· ing pan ,
2. Carefu lly roll the dough UpOOl(l1 rolling pin. Position the pin 0I'e! the pie pan or tart shell and wua1 the dough, easing it into tht pan or shell. Trim the edges as necessary and flute as desired Bake or fill as desired.
PROCEDURE FOR ROLLING AND SHAPING D OUGH FOR TARTLET SHmS
1. A typical crust for tartlets should be approximately 1/4 inch (6 millinx.'tefsl
thick. 2. Roll the dough out as described earlier. TIlen roll the dough up onto the rolling pin,
PIES. PASm1ES AND (J)(JKlES
J.
L1y Ollt a single I;tyer of tanlet shells. Unroll the dough over the shells, pressing the dough gently into each one.
Z. Roll the rolling pin over the tOp of
the shells. The edge of the shells will cut the dough. Be sure the dough is pressed against the sides of each shell. Bake or fill as desired.
I'iocEoURF. FOR ROLLING AND SHAPING DOUGH FOR
Top CRUSTS
I. Roll the dough out as before, making the circle l:trge enough 10 hang over ~ p3n's edge. rhe dough may be lifted into place by rolling it OntO Ihe rolling pin, as with the bouom crust Slill; or designs can be cut from the Iq) (TUstto allow steam to escape.
Z. Seal the top crust 10 the bottom
crust with egg wash or water. Crimp as desired.
fmom
FOR ROWNG AND S,IAI'ING DOUGH FOR LAmCE CRUSTS
1 Roll the dough Oll! as before. Using a ruler as a guide, cut even strips of the desired Width, ()'pically 1/2 inch (J .25 centimeters).
947
948
CIWl>J! 32
2. Using an over-under-over pattern , WC:lve the strips together on top ci!ll
filling. Be sure the strips are evenly sp:lced for an auractive result. Criql the lattice strips to the bottom enlS! to seal. Streusel topping is also used for some pies. p:lI1icubrly fruit pies. A recipe is gi\'cn in Chapler 3(). Quick Breads.
Baking Crllsts Pie crusts can be filled and then baked, or baked and then filled. l' baked crusts can Ix stored :It room temper-Hure for lWO to three dJ~~ wrapped in plastic wrap and frozen for as long as three months.
PROCEDURE fOR BAKING UNFILLED (BAKED BLIND) PIE CRUsrs 1. Roll the dough OUI 10 the desired
thickness and line the pie pan or
Dock-prickillg sm(lll boIl!S ill 1111 III/lxlked dough or crus! 10 (11/0/1 ' sJmm 10 e.;alpe (/11(/ 10
tan shell. A crimped edge or border can be added. 2. Dock the dough Wilh a fork.
pm'en/the dOllgb/rom risillg Ifb'.'11 b(llletl
3. Cover the dough with baking parchment o r greased ailiminum foil (greased side down). Press the paper or foil against the edge or walls of the shell. Allow .1 portion of the paper or foil to extend above the pan. 4. Fill the pan with baking weights, dry rice or beans. 111ese will prevent the crust from rising. 5. Bake tbe weighted (nISt at 350°F (I80°C) for 10-15 minutes.
PIES, PASl'RIES AII'D COOKIES
, Remove the weights :Ind pllper and return the Cnlst to the oven, I\J.ke until goldcn brown and fully cooked. approximately 10-15 minUle5. '..-\IJow to cool, thcn fill as desired or store,
Crumb emsls ,\quick and lasty bOllom eniSI Gin be made from finely ground crumbs moistrrtd wilh melted butter. Cnmlb cmsts can be used for unbaked pies such as tIxbc with cream or chiffon fillings, or they c:ln be baked with their fillings , as
_ill cheesectkes. Chocolate cookies, graham crackers, gingersnaps, vanilla wafers ,md macarob are popular choices for cnunb cnlsts. Some breakfast cereals sllch as «m Hlkes or bran fla kes lire also used. Ground nuts and spices can be added i:t flaror. Whatever cookies or other ingredients are used, be sure they are pmd to a fine, even cmmb. If packlged cmmbs are unavailable, a food JIOCt'SSOf, blender or rolling pin can be used. The typical ratio for a enllllb emst is one part melted butter, (WO pans sugar ltd four parts cnllnbs. For example, 8 ounces (250 grams) graham crackers moo with 4 ounces (120 grams) sugar and 2 ounces (60 grams) melted buttrproduce enough emSt to line one 9- or lO-inch (22-25 centimeter) pan. The :m.tnt of sugar may need to be adjusted depending on the lype of emmbs ~ hoI\'e\'er; for example, chocolate sandwich cookies need less sugar than rnrom rnckers. If the mixture is too dry to stick together, gradually add more IlritOO butter. Press the mixture into the bottom of the pan and chill or bake ,before filling.
Fillings filings make pies and tarts distinctive and flavorful. Four types of fillings are here: cream, fruit, custard and chiffon , There is no one correct IftSl'!ltation or filling-and-cmst combination. 111e apples in ;10 apple pie, for mmple, may be sliced, seasoned and topped with streusel; caramelized, puffiI and blended with cream; chopped and covered with a flaky dough latke; or poached, arranged over pastry cream and bmshed with a shiny glaze.
filling is really nothing more than a flavored pastry cream. Pastry is a type of starch-thickened egg custard discussed in Chapter 34, Cus-
Creams, Frozen Dcssens and Dessert Sauces. When used as a pie filling, cream should be thickened with cornstarch so that it is firm enough to its shape when sliced. Popular flavors are chocolate, bananll, coconut and ,\ cre:un filling is fully cooked on the stove tOp, so a prebaked or crumb is needed. "I11e cmsl can be filled while the filling is still warm, or thc filing can be chillcd and later pl:tced in the mIst. A cream pie is oft en topped uh meringue, which is then browned quickly in an oven or under a broiler. crust
Making a cnlmb CniSI.
""
949
950
CJIAPl1iR J2
= = = = = = '-v"' = = = = = RECI PE 32.3
BASIC CREMI PIE Yield: 2 9-in. (22-cm) Pies
I . Filling a baked pie shell with
chocolate custard.
SOO g 21t
Granulated sugar Milk Egg yolks
lib. 2 qt. 8
8
Eggs
4
4
Cornstarch
SOl.
ISO g
Unsalted butler
4 oz.
nOg
Vanilla extract Flaky pie dough shells. baked
I oz.
JOg
2
2
1. In a heavy saucepan, dissolve 8 ounces (250 grams) of sugar in the Bring just \0 a boil. 2. Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks and whole eggs together in a large 00 3. Sift the cornstarch and remaining sugar (8 ounces/250 grams) ()fI( eggs. Whisk until smooth. 4. Temper the egg mix{Ure with approximately one half of the hoi. milk the warmed egg mixture back into the remaining milk and return ilto
boil, stirring constantly. 5. Stirring constantly and vigorously, allow the cream to boil untillhid:..
2. Topping with meringue.
proximately 30 seconds. Remove from the heat and stir in the buner vanilla. Stir until the buner is melted and incorporated. 6. Pour the cream into the pie m ists. 7. The pies can be topped with meringue while the filling is slill II"arm Th' meringue is then lightly browned in a 425°F (210°C) oven. ChilltheJ»." for setvice. VAlUAnol'iS: Chocolate-i\lelt 12 ounces (340 grams) bittersweet choo:l Fold the melted chocolate into the hot cream after adding the bunl'r vanilla. BOilalla---L,1.yer 12 ounces (340 grams) sliced bananaS (about 3 medium namls) into the baked shell with the warm cream. Coconut 1-Substitute 12 ounces (340 grams) cream of coconUl fIX ounces (340 grams) of milk and 4 ounces (120 grams) of sugar. Top the II' with meringue and shredded coconut. Coconut 11-Stir 8 ounces (250 grams) toasted coconut into the , cream. Appmx;m:l!e \':llllCS per servin.g: <;aIoMe!l 220. Total fal 9 g. SalUr.uoo fal Sodium 55 mg, TOIa] carboh),drale!l 29 g. Prole in 5 g. Vllamin A t(\%
5 II.
Cho lem:roJ
l.l1
Fruit Fillings A fruit filling is a mixture of fruit , fruit juice, spices and sugar lhickened 1\ a starch. Apple, cherry, blueberry and peach are traditional faVOrites. The &\l can be fresh, frozen or canned. (See Chapter 25, FruitS, for comments on!t lecting the best fruits for fillings.) The starch can be flour, comsmrch. ta~ or a packaged commercial instant or pregelatinized starch. The ingredients
PIES. PAl17IJFiiANDCOOKlFii 1 fruit
filling are most often combined using one of three methods: cooked
fruit, cooked juice or baked .
Coo!oed Fruit Fillings The cooked fruit filling method is often used when the fruits need to be mened by cooking (for example, apples or rhubarb) or are naturllly rather 1)0,. (Poaching fruit, discussed in Chapter 25, Fruits, is a variation of this proredure.) A cooked fruit filling should be combined with a prebaked or crumb crusl
l'IocmURE FOR PREPARING CooKED fRUI T FIWNGS J. Combine the fruit, sugar and some juice or liquid in a heavy, nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil.
Z Dissolve the starch (usually cornstarch) in a cold liquid, then add to the boiling fruit. j Stirring constamly. cook the frui t-and-starch mixture until the starch is clear and the mixture is thickened. t Add any Olher flavorings and any acidic ingredients such as lemon juice. Slir 10 blend. ~ Remove from the heat and cool before filling a pre baked pie or (nunb crusl
====== ~ RECIPE 32.4
APPLE-CRANBERRY PIE Yield: I 9-in. (22-cm) Pic
Fresh tart apples such as Granny Smiths, peeled, cored and cui in I-inch (2.5-centimeler) cubes Brown sugar Granulated sugar Orange zeSI Cinnamon, ground Salt Cornstarch Orange jllice Fresh cranberries, rinsed ~teal}' dough pie shell, partially baked Streusel Topping (Recipe 30.4)
Method: Cooked Fruit Filling
I lb.
4;0 g
4 oz.
120 g 120g 15 ml 5 ml I ml 10 rol 90 ml 500 ml I 120 g
4 oz. 1 Thsp. liSp. 1/4 tsp. 2 !Sp. 3 oz. I pI. I
4 oz.
J. Combine the apples, brown sugar, granulaled sugar, orange zest, cinnamon
and salt in a large, nonreactive saucepan. l Dissolve the cornstarch in the orange juice and add it to the apples. j eo..·er and simmer until the apples begin to soften, stirring occasionally. Add [he cranberries, cover and continue simmering until the cranberries begin 10 soften , approximately 2 minutes. CO lllil/lled
~
951
952 "'"
CHAPlfR 32
4. Place the apple-cranberry mixture in the pie shell and cover with the ~ pared streusel topping. Bake at 400c F (200 CC) until the filling is buhI*c hot and the topping is lightly browned, approximately 20 minutes. VARIATIOS: Apple-rhubarb pie-Substirute cleaned rhubarb, OJt into l-m (2.5-centimeter) chunks, for the cranberries. Add 1/8 teaspoon (0.5 milliIicd nutmeg. Approxim;Ile values per serving: CaIorlc8 290, To w r31 8 g. S;.turated (31 2 g, Chobfmll II. Sodium 200 mg, Total earboh,'drales S3 g, Protein 2 g. Cla.im5-no chok::sierol; good _II
","
Cookedjuice Fillings The cooked juice filling method is used (or juicy fm its such as berries.!Specially when they are canned or frozen. This method is also recoJl1llle1dod for delicate fmits that cannot withstand cooking such as strawberries, p~ pie and blueberries. Because only thc juice is cooked, the fruil retains II shape, color and flavor bener. A cooked juice fillin g should be combined ,. a prebaked or cnllnb crus!.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING CooKED J UICE FlIllNGS I . Drain the juice from the fruit. Measure the juice and add water if necessarr
to create the desired volume. 2. Combine the liquid with sugar in a nonrcactl\'C saucepan and bringtoa
boil. Dissolve the starch in cold water, then add it to the boiling liquid. Cook untillhe starch is clear and the juice is thickened. 4. Add any other fla\'oring ingredicnls. 5. Pour the thickened juice over the fruit and stir gently. 6: Cool the filling before placing it in a precooked pie shell. j.
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 32.5
BLUEBERRY PIE FILLING Yield: 8-1b. (3.6-kg) Filling
Canned blueberries, unsweetened Sugar Cornstarch Water Cinnamon, ground Lemon juice Lemon zest, gI
Method: Cooked Juice Filling 1 - 10 can I lb. 12 oz. 4 1/2 oz. 8 oz. 1/2 1sp. 21bsp. 1 lbsp.
1 :-10 can
840 g 135g 225 ml 2m1
30mI 15 ml
I. Drain the juice from the canned blueberries, reserving bo{h {he fruit :wi the juice. 2. Measure the juice and, if necessary, add enough water 10 provide I quart (l liter) of liquid. Bring to a boH, add the sugar and stir until dissolred. 3. Dissolve the cornstarch in 8 ounces (225 gI
PIES, PASl7?IES AND COOKIES
t Add the cornstarch to the boiling juice and return to a boiL Cook untillhe
mixllIre thickens and clears, Remove from the heal. 1 Add the cinnamon, lemon juice, lemon zest and reserved blueberries. Slir gtntly to coat the fruil with the glaze, , Allow Ihe filling to cool, then use illo fill prebaked pie shells or other pastry items. Ipp'oxlll\lle Vllu~"S per l-oz. (29-g) servi ng: Calories 40, To tal fat 0 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Cho le::§:· RI'OI Omg. Sodi um 0 mg, Tota l ca rbohydrates 10 g, Protein 0 g, Cilli ms----fal free; no cholesterol; I:llOIIium; low C)lorie
Bilked Fmil Fillings The baked fruit filling method is a traditional tech nique in which the fru it, !iJgar, flavorings and starch are combined in an \.lt1b:lked shell . 111e dough and filling are then baked simultaneously. Almost any type of fruit and starch can be USt"'
I'iocFWRE FOR PREPARING BAKED FRUIT FILLINGS 1. Combine the starch, spices and sugar. I. Peel, core, cut or dmin the fruit as desired or as directed in the recipe.
! Toss the fruit with the starch mixture, coating well. t Add a portion of juice to moisten the fruit. Small lumps of butter are also often added. 1 Fill an unbaked shell with the fruit mixture. Cover with a top crust, lattice or streusel and bake.
""' ======= RECIPE 32.6
CHERRY PIE Yield: 2 9-ill. (22-cm) Pies
T3pioca ~iI
Granulated sugar Almond extract Canned pitted cherries, drained (reserve the liquid) ~tealy dough pie shells, unbaked L'nsahed bUl1er Egg wash Sanding sugar
Method: Baked Fruit Filling 1 1/2 oz. pinch I lb. 1/2 ~p.
45 g pinch 450 g 2 ml
3 lb. 2 1 oz. as needed as needed
1.3 kg 2 30 g as needed as needed
I. Slir the tapioca, salt and granu l;ned sugar together. Add the almond extract and cherries, 2. Stir in up to 8 ounces (250 grams) of the liquid drained from the cherries, adding enough liquid to moisten the mixllIre thoroughly. COllfilllled
. 953
954
CI1A11'~ 32
J.
Allow the filling 10 stand for 30 minutes. TIlen stir
gently and place tb:
ing in an unbaked pie shell. 4. Cut the butter into small pieces. DO{ the filling with the buner.
nute the t\'!.:. If using a full top crust, cut several slits in the dough to allow Sleam 10 cape. Bmsh the top cmst or l:ittice with an egg wash and sprinklr sanding sugar. 6. Place on a preheated sheet pan and bake at 4()()<'F (2000C) for 50-«1 utes.
5. place a top crust or a ]auice crust over the filling; seal and
Approximate '':Ilucs per I S.pie serving, CaloriC!! .Ho. Total fat 9 g. Sat Uf"dll-d fat } g. 5 mg. Sodium 1-0 mg. Tol.;l l carbo h}'dr;uel'i 6311. Protein 2 g
~
.J Dotting the cherry filling with ~[
Custard Fillings
== ~ == CONVENIElI'CE P HQI)UCTS
Prepared or canned pie fillings are available in a variety of fruit and custard n(Wors. 11lese products offer convenience and the ability 10 ser.'e fruit pies out of se3S01l. The ratio 01 fruit to pregelled liquid varies greatly from brand 10 brand, iloom'er. Moo commercial fillings are stabilized to pemli! lllY at:kiilional cooking needed to assemble the final product. Shelf life lends 10 be extremely long. often \\imoul the need for refriger:llion. Ory custard mixes are also :Ivail:tble. needing only the addition of water or milk Despite the convenience,
m~1
prep:ut'(1 pie
fillings are a disappointing substitute for a "'ell-made fresh fruit or custard filling.
A custard pie has a soft filling that bakes along with the crust. Popuhr e.tI pIes include pumpkin. egg custard and pecan pies. As explained in Oupit 34. Custards. CrC""Jms, Frozen Desserts and Dessert Sauces, custards are Jq.~ thickened by coagulated egg proteins. To make :t cuslard pie, an ~ liquid containing eggs is poured into a pie shell. \,(Ihen baked. the egg pIT"' teins cOllgulale, firming and setting the fiiling. The procedure for m:'lking custard pies is simple: Combine the in~ and bake. But there is oflen a problem: baking the bottom crust tompkiu without overcooking the filling. For the best resu lis, start baking the pie om the bottom of a hot oven :It 400 Q F (200°C). After 10 minutes, reduce the!!el' to 325°F-350°F (I60°C- 180°C) to finish cooking lhe filling slowly. To determine the doneness of a custard pie: }, Shake the pie genlly. H is done if il is no longer liquid. The centenoo...: show only a slight mo,·emenl. 2. Insert a thin knife about I inch (2.5 centimeters) from the center. The til ing is done if the knife COllles out dean.
RECIPE 32.7
P UMPKIN PIE Yield: 4 9-in. (22<m) Pies
Method: 111ked Custard Filling
Eggs, beaten slightly Pumpkin puree Granulated sugar Salt Nutmeg, ground
4
4
2 lb. 12 oz. I tsp, 112 tsp.
900g 340g 5 m! 2ml
PIES, PASl1UES AND COOKIES
ground Cinnamon, ground Ginger, ground E\'aporated milk Flaky dough pie shells, unbaked
QO\'CS,
1/ 2 !Sp, 2 !Sp. ltsp. 24 oz.
2 ml 10 ml 5 ml 700 ml
4
4
~
955
I, Combine the eggs and pumpkin. Blend in the sugar. l. Add the sal! and spices, then the evaporated milk. Whisk until completely blended and smooth . J. Allow the filling to rest for 1S-20 minutes before filling the pie shells. 111is aUows the starch in the pumpkin to begin absorbing liquid, oaking it less likely 10 separale after baking. i Pour the filling into unbaked pie shells. Place in the oven on a prebell1ed sheet p3n :11 400°F (200°C). Bake for 15 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 350°F (i80°C) and bake until a knife inserted near the center comes OUI clean, approximately 40-50 minutes. \jlIOUIlJ!c \'Jlut'S per I s.pic serving: Calorlcll 210. Tl)(a] 13! 10 g. S3tunted fa! "" SOdIum .!.iO mg. Total carbohrdntes 25 g, Protein 4 g. Vitamin A 6%
25 g, Cholesterol
Chiffol/ Fillil/gs .\ chiffon filling is created by adding gelatin to a stirred custard or ;1 fnlit f'Jrk Whipped egg whites are then folded into the mixture. The filling is placed in a prebaked crust and chilled until firm. These preparmions are the \1lllt' as those for chiffons, mousses and Bavarians discussed if: Chapter 34, Cusurds. Creams, Frozen Desserts and Dessert Sauces.
Assembling Pies and Tarts The r:trious types of pie fillings can be used to fill almost any m ist or shell, prtJ\ided the enlst is prebaked as neceS&1ty. TIle filling can then be topped 'lh meTing,le or whipped cream as desired, Garnishes such as toasted co-
1\BlE 32.2 .-, SUGGESTIONS FOR ASm lBUNG PIES r
Cru.
\'mi!lJ or lemon cream
Prebaked flaky dough None, meringue or whiPIX-d cream Crumbs from the cruSt or crumb Prebaked flaky dough None. meringue or whiPIX-d cream Crumbs from the cruSt or shaved choc'QI:lle or crumb Prebaked flaky dough '\'!eringuc or whipped cream Dried IxInana chips Prebaked flaky dough Meringue or whipped cream Shredded coconut Unbaked mcaly dough or 1.:J.lliee, full crust or streusel Sanding sug.1r or CUt-out designs sweet dough if shallow tan if laniec or top crust is used Unbaked mealy dough tanice, full cruSt or streusel Sanding sugar or cut-out designs if lallice or top crust is u!'Cd Crumb or prebaked, None or whipped cream Crumbs, fruit or sha\'ed sweetened flaky clough chocolate Unbaked mealy dough None Whipped cream
Oo:oIate m.MJm B.ln:IIIJ cream
Coconut cream Fresh fruit Cmned or frozen fruit
Moo or mousse
"",m! (8 .. pecan or pumpkin) lmilb pastry cream
PrelYJked sW(''et dough
Topping
Fresh fruit
Garnish
Glaze
956 '""" TABLE
CIW'lEJI 32
32.3 .n-.
TROUBLF~HOOTING CHART FOR PIES
Problem Crust shrinks
Soggy crust
Crumbly cruSt Tough cruSt Runny fllling Lumpy cream filling Custard filling weeps or separates
Solution
,Overmixing
Adjust mixing technique
Overworking dough
Adjust rolling technique
Not enough fat
Adjust formula
Wrong dough used
Use mealier dough
Oven temperalUre tOO low
Adjust oven
NO! baked long enough
Adjust baking time
Not enough liquid
Adjust formula
Too much fat
Adjust formula
NO( enough fat
Adjust formula
Overmixing
Adjust mixing technique
Insufficient starch
Adjust formula
Starch insufficiently cooked
Allow starch to gelatini7.c completely
Starch not incorporated properly
Slir filling while cooking
Filling overcooked
Adjust cooking time
Too many eggs
Reduce egg content or add siarrh to the fillq:
Eggs overcooked
Reduce oven temperature or baking time
C0I111t, cookie counbs and chocolate curls are often added for appearance am flavor.
Storing Pies and Tarts Pies and tarts filled with cream or custard must be kept refrigerated to trurd bacterial growth. Baked fruit pies may be held at room temperature for ser.u Unbaked fruil pies or unbaked pie shells may be frozen for up to IIlO months. Freezing baked fruit pies is not recommended. Custard, cream am meringue-topped pies should not be frozen , as the eggs will separate, 11llkq the product runny.
ClASSlC PASTRlES .N"> Puff pastry, eclair paste and meringue are classic components of French
pastries; they are used to create a wide variety of dessert and pasuy iletm. Many combinations :Ire traditional. Once you maSter the skills ne("CSS3!"f 10 produce these products, however, you will be free to experiment \\~th 00Ier flavors and assembly techniques.
PuffPastry Puff pastlY is one of the bakeshop's most elegant and sophisticated prOOuru. Also known as pate fcuiJ1etCe, it is a rich, buuelY dough that bakes into hundreds of light, crisp layers. Puff pastlY is used for ooth sweet and savory preparations. It can be bakrd and then filled or filled first and then baked. Pliff pastry may be used 10 IlTap beef (for beef Wellington), pate (for pate en crOLLte) or almond cream (for an apple tall). It can be shaped into shells or cases known as vol-au-\·ents IX
PIES. PJSrRfES AND COOKIES
("'\!\.
957
OOuchees and filled with shellfish in a cream sallce or berries in a pastry Cll':lffi. Puff pastry is essentbl for napoleons, pithiviers and lanes tatin. like croissant and danish dough (discussed in Chapter 31, Yeast Breads), puff pastry is a rolled·in dough. But unlike those doughs, puff pastry does not contain any yeast or chemical leavening agents. Fat is rolled into the dough in horizontal layers; when baked, the fat melts, separating the dough into layers. The fat's moisture turns into steam, which causes the dough to rise and the b)m to further separate. Buner is the preferred fat because of its flavor and melt·in·the·moulh qual· 'y. But butter is I"3ther difficult to work with as it becomes brittle when cold and melts at a relatively low temperature. Therefore, specially formulated puff Jl3SIl)' shortenings arc used to compensate for buller"s shortcomings. They do 001. ho\\"ever, provide the true navor of bUller. Raw, frozen, commercially prepared puff pastry is readily available in sheets Of precut in a variety of shapes. Some convenience products, especially those made with butler, provide excellent, consistent results. Their expense may be offsct by the savings in time and labor. Keep these frozen doughs well lT3pped to prevent drying and freeze r burn, and prepare according to pack· age directions.
JIokillg Puff /JaslT')1 The procedure described here for making puff pastry is just one of many. Each chef will have his or her own formula and folding method. All methods, how· t'l"tr. depend upon the proper layering of fat and dough through a series of lllrT\.', 10 give Ihe pastry its charaaeristic nakiness and rise. &me chefs prefer to prepare a dough called blitz or quick puff pasrry. It 00es II()( require the extensive rolling and folding procedure used for true puff pastry. Blitz puff pastry is less delicate and fl aky but may be perfectly accept· able for some uses. A formula for it is given at the end of Ihis chapler.
" Prepare the dough base (detrentpc) by combining the flour, water, salt and a small :1I110unt of fa t. Do not overmix. Overmixing results in greater gluten formation; too much gluten Gm make the pastry undeSirably tough. 1 \Vrap the detrempe and chill for several hours or overnight. This allows the gluten to relax and the fl our to absorb the liquid. j. Shape the butter into :J rectangle of even thickness; wrap and chill until ready to use. 4. Allow the detrempe and butter to sit at room temperature until slightly softened :md of the 5.1me consistency. S Roll out the delrempc into a rectangle of even thickness. , Place the bUller in the center of the dough. Fold the dough around the butter, enclosing it completely. 7. Roll oulthe block of dough and butler into a long, even rectangle. Roll only at right angles so that the layered stntcture is nOi. destroyed. a Fold me dough like a business letter: Fold the tX)l.Iom third up toward the center so that it covers the center Ihird, then fold the lOp Ihird down over the bottom and middle thirds. This completes the first turn. l Rotate the block of dough one·quaT1er turn (90 degrees) on the work surface. Roll out again into a long, even rectangle. JO. Fold the dough in thirds lIgain, like a business leller. This completes the second turn. Wrap the dough and chill for approximately 30 minutes. The
Dctrcmpe-a paste made u'ilb flollr and u¥lter durillg tbe first sfage ofpreparillg a pastry deugb, ~llly rof/('(f-ill dOllgbs.
958
~
CIWlfR 32
resting period allows the gluten to relax; the chilling prevents the burur
from becoming too soft. 11. Repeat the rolling and folding process, chilling between every ont' or turns, umil the dough has been turned a 101,tl of five limes. 12. Wrap well and chi ll overnight. Raw dough may be refrigerated for a ft'l days or frozen for tWO 10 three months.
13. Shape and bake as needed. Baked, unfilled puff paStry can be stored 01 room temperature for two
10
three days.
RECIPE 32.8
PUFF PASTRY Method: Rolled-In Dougll
Y;eld' 2 lb. (I kg) All-purpose flour
13 oz.
39Qg
Salt
I 1/2 !Sp.
7ml
Uns.,lted bulter, cold Water, cold Unsahed butter, softened
3 oz.
9Qg 210 ml
7 oz. iO oz.
300g
1. To Conn the dClrempe, sift the flour and salt IOgether in a large bo\\H, the 3 ounces (90 g~llns) of cold butter into sm:lll pieces and then CUI !It
pieces into the flour until the mi.xture resembles coarse cornmeal. 2. Make a well in the cemer of the mixture and add all the water at em. Using a rubber spatula or your fingers, graclu:llly draw the flour intoft water. Mix until all the flour is incorporated. Do not knead. The detmm should be sticky and shaggy-looking. NOTE: The detrempe can be made in a foOO processor. To do so, the flour, 5<.lt and pieces of butter in a food processor bowl fitted with ir metal blade. Process umil a coarse meal is formed. \'(lith [he processor IllIIIJq, slowly add the water. Turn the machine off as soon as the dough comes 10gether 10 form a ball. Proceed with the remainder of the reCipe.
3. Turn lhe detrempe out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead the doo¢u 1. Mise en place for puff pastry. 111e detrempe is shown on the left.
4.
5.
6.
7. 2. Folding the dough around the
butter.
few limes by hand, rounding it imo a ball. \'(/rap the dough lightly in ~ lie and chill o\'ernight. To roll in the butter, first prepare the IO-ounce e300-gram) piece of blter by placing it between [wo sheets of plastic wrap. Use a rolling pill roll the softened butter imo a rectangle approximately 5 inches x 8 in:bo (12.5 cemimeters x 20 cemimeters). It is important that the delrempeard bUller be of almost equal conSistency. If necessary, allow the detl1'1lljXkI sit at room temperature to soften or chill the bUller briefly to harden. On a lightly flou red board, roll the detrcmpe inlO a rectangle aWODmately 12 inches x 15 inches 00 centimeters x 37.5 centimeters). Uft3Dl fOlate the dough as necessary 10 prevent sticking. Use a dry P"lstry brush to bnJsh away any flour from the dough's surOO Loose flour C'dn ClIUse gray strCllks lind C'dn prevent the puff pasu)" fM rising properly when baked. Peel one piece of pl:tstic wrap from the butter. Position the butter intlr center or the rect:mgle and remove the remaining plastic. Fold the feu edges or the detrempe over the bU1!er enclosing it completely. StretdI
PIES, PASTRIES AND COOKIES
the dough if necess;II)'; it is important [hat none of the butler be exposed. & \\1ilh the folded side facing up, press Ihe dough several times \vith a rolling pin. Use a rocking motion to cre:ne ridges in the dough. Place the rolling pin in each ridge and slowly roll back and forth [0 widen the ridge. Repeat until all the ridges are doubled in size. ~ Using the ridges as a starting point, roll the dough out into a smooth, e\'en rectangle approximately 8 inches x 24 inches (20 centimeters x 60 centimeters). Be clreful to keep the corners of the dough as right angles. III Use a dry IXlstry brush to remove any loose flour from the dough's surfacc. Fuld the dough in thirds, like :I business lener. If onc end i<; d:llllaged or in worse condition, fold it in first; otherwise, start at the bottom. ntis completes the first turn . //. Rotate the block of dough 90 degl\."'es so that the folded edge is on your left and the dough f:Kes you like :l book. Roll out the dough ag:tin, repeating the ridging technique. Once again, the dough shou ld be in :I smooth, even reC1:lngle of approximately 8 inches x 24 inches (20 centimeters x 60 centimeters). 11 Fold the dough in thirds again, completing the second turn. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes. lJ, Repeat the rolling and folding techniqt:e until the dough has had a tOlal of lh·(' turns. Do nO! perform more than two turns without a resling and chilling period. Cover the dough complctely and chill ovcrnight before shlping and baking. !UntlIC \"Jlucs per l-oz. (2}1/.) sen'ing, Calories l.!l. Toell! f:u 91/.. trot!) filii.
Sudium ItO mg. To tal carbohrdr.ltes 9 g.
S:nur:Jled
flit 61/.. ChQles·
Protein I g. Vitamin A
WE: It is not necess.ll)' to work with the emire block of dough when mak~g bouchtts, cookies or the like. Cllt the block imo thirds or quarters and .urk with one of these l)Onions at a time, keeping the rest chilled Lll1Iil omkd.
SlKJpillg Puff P(lSlry' Once puff pastry dougb is prepared. it can be shaped into containers of varilAb sizes and sh:lpes. C!:Issic shapes are [)Ouchees, vol-au-vents and feuilk1~. Bouchces :Ire small puff P:lstry shells often used for hors d·oeuvre or 1Wl'1izers. Vol·au·vents are larger, deeper shells, offen filled with 5<Wory mixrures for a main course. Although they ;Ire mosl often round or square, special luI·Ju-vent cutters arc avaittlblc in the shape of fish , h('~T1S or petals. FellilIntes arc square, rectangular or diamond-5haped puff pastry boxes. They can ~ filled with :1 sweet or savory mixlllre. \\"hen making sl r:light ClilS in puff P:lstry, press the tip of your knife into ~ dough and cut by pressing down on the handle. Do not drag the knife lhrough the dough or you will crush the layers and deform the pastry.
I'IocEDURli FOR SIL-IPING VOI.-AU-VENTS 'NO BO UCII EF~ I. Roll out the puff pasll)' dough to a thickness of apprOXil1l
millimeters).
3. Rulling Oll! the dough.
4. Folding the dough in thirds.
_ 959
960
WAP71:!? 32
2. Cut the desired shape and size using a vol-au-vent cutter or rings.
h. To shape with rings, use 1\\'0
rings, one approximately I inch (25 centimeters) smaller in diameter than the other. The
a. A \'ol-au-vent cutter looks like a double cookie cutter with one cutler alx)Ut 1 inch (2.; centimeters) smaller than the other. To cut the pastry, simply
position the cutter and press down.
I:Irgcr ring is used to cut twO rounds. One will be the ooseJlXl is set aside. TIle smaller ringi.then used to cut OUi an intt'fix circle from the second round leaving a border ring of dough (The scmp of dough from the dough ring's center has no funIr usc in making ,·ol-au-w·nts.)
3. Place the vol-au-vent or bouchee on a paper-lined sheet pan. If you LL'
rings, place the base on the p:lper-lined sheet pan, bmsh lightly with I\JIeI then top it with the dough ring: score the edge with the back of a paring knife. Chill for 20-30 minutes to allow the dough to relax before baking. 4. Egg-wash if desired and dock the center with :1 fork. PROCEDURE FOR SHAPING Flmll .L1rr~ ES
I . Roll out the puff pastry dough into an e\'en rectangle approximately I HIO
1/4 inch (3 to 6 millimeters) thick. 2. Using a sharp paring knife or chefs knife, cut SQuares that are about 2
inches (; centimeters) larger than the desired interior of the finished feui1letee.
J. Fold each square in half dia~ nally. Cut through twO sides rl the dough, 3baUi 1/2 inch O.!i centimeters) from the edge. Cut J "V," being careful nO!. to rul through the corners al Ihe Cffill'1' fold.
PIES. PtlSfRJES AND COOKlES ~
961
4. Open the squa re and lay it flat Lift opposite sides of the cut border at the cut corners and cross them. ~
Brush water on the edges to seal the dough. Place the feuilletees on a paper-lined sheet pan. t Score the edges with the back of a paring knife. Chill for 20-30 minutes allow the dough to relax before baking. 1. Egg-wash if desired and dock the cemer with a fork.
[0
Puff pastry scraps cannOI be rerolled and used for prooucts needing a high rise. The additional rolling destroys the [ayers. Scraps (known as rognures),
ooll'c\"er, can be used for cookies such as pa [miers (Recipe 32.28), turnovers, · lkwrnti\"e crescents (fleurons). tart shells, napoleons (Recipe 32.27) or any (em for which rise is less importam than fl avor :md flaki ness. MOSt puff pastry products bake best in a hot oven, about 4000F-425°F 11(q'C-220°C).
Eclair Paste Eclair paste, also known as pate ii choux, bakes up into golden brown, crisp p1SIries. Inside these light pastries are mostly air pockets with a bit of moist OOugh. They can be filled with sweet cream, cllstard, fruit or even 5.1\'ory mixlUreS. The dough is most oflen piped into rounds for cream puffs, fingers for «lairs or rings for Paris-Brest. Eclair paste may also be piped or spooned uno specific shapes and deep-fried for doughnut-type products known as bdgncts, churros and crullers.
'4aking Eclair Paste
Crcam puffs-bakai roUl/tis of oc«lir ptlSle cuI ill half olldjil/ai uitb past", crt!Um. u'hipped
cream./ruiJ or other jil/mg. Profllcroles-small baked rolllll# of ldair paste jilled uvb ice cream (llId 10fJPtC/ uvb cboaJIale$Oua. Croquembouche--a pyr(lmid of sm(lll PlljJs,
I'Ocb jillai u'ilb pasIry cretllll; (I French lratiilum for anislmas (llIti u-eddings. it is beid /()geIber uilb CIlramelizer:1 sugar and dewrnltrJ ullb spun sugar or marzipan jIou-m.
f.cbir paSte is unique among doughs because it is cooked before baking. The cooking occurs when the flour is added to a boiling mixture of water, milk and Eclairs-baRer! jinger.r of ldair paste jilW uvb crt!Um; lbe lop is Ibell cooled uvb ciJoaJItIIe 1lI11l'r. This process breaks down the starches in the flour, allowing them to pastry glaze or f(}lldtml. 3bsorb the liquid, speeding gelatinization . Eggs are added 10 the flou r mixtu re let leavening. The dough produced is balterlike with a smooth, firm texture; it Paris.Brest- rings of baked lr:/(Iir paste cuI in half borlz(}Ilwlly mui jilW wilb light pastry 00es not have the dry, cmmbly texture of OIher doughs. Without this tech- CTtaIl/ umVor u-bipped crtrml; !be lop is dl/Sled nique, the dough would nOt puff lip and develop the desired large interior air uvb pou-dertd sugar or drizzW u"ilb dJoaJ/aIe jXrl:etS when baked. gIaz< 8cig ncts-Jl1/1OnlS or strips of lr:/(Iir IJaSle dffpfntd (llId dusted uvb potl"derl!(/ SII8(lr.
PRocEDURE FOR PREPARI NG ECLAIR PASTE
I. Combine the liquid ingredientS and butter and bring to a boil. 10 the saucepan as soon as the water-and-butter mixture comes to a boil. If the liquid is allowed to boil, evaporation occurs; this Cln create an imb..1lance in the liquid-Io-flour ralio.
l. Add all [he flour
Churros-tl Spanish (l1Id Mexi((11/ pastry ill U"bicb sIids of ldair paste jltworer:/ uvb cilll/O· ilion (Ire tkep-fried (llIti roIW in sugar u·bile sIiIl
...
CruUers-a Dutch pastry in U"bicb (I loop or strip of misted ldair paste is tletpfri«J.
962 '""'.
ClW'TER 32
3. Stir vigorously until the liquid is absorbed. Continue cooking the dou until it forms a ball that comes away from the sides of the pan, lea\~ only a thin fi lm of dough in the pan. 4. Transfer the dough \0 a mixing bowl. Add the eggs one al a lime. welt after each addition. This may be done in :t mixer with the paddle auachment or by hand. The number of eggs used varies depe"d;,'go.io size of each egg and the moisture content of the flour mixture. Slop eggs when the dough just begins to fall away from the iJe'Jlers. 5. TIle finished dough should be smooth :lOd pliable enough 10 pi;;pe '""";, a pastry bag; it should not be runny.
li Pipe the dough as desired and bake immediately. A high oven ("m.p"'. is necessa!)' al the stan of baking; it is then reduced gradually baking and dry the product. Do nOt open the oven door during the M half of the baking peri<x1. 7. Allow the dough to bake until completely dry. If the products are from the oven too soon, they will collapse. 8. Baked ecla ir paste can be stored, unfilled, for severa l days at room temperature or frozen for several weeks. Once filled, the pastry should !.: served within two or three hours, as it quickly becomes soggy.
RECIPE 32.9
BASIC ECWR PASTE Yield: 2 lb. (1 kg) Dough
Milk· Waler Salt Granulated sugar Unsalted buller All-purpose flour Eggs
S oz. S oz. I 1/2 ISp. 21'SI'. 7 1/2 oz. 8 oz. 7-9
225 ml 225 ml 7 ml 10 ml 210 g 450 g 7-9
I. Preheat the oven to 42;cF (220°C). Line a sheet pan with parchment. Ha\t
a pastry bag with a large pla in tip ready. 2. Place the milk, water, salt, sugar and butter in a saucepan. Bring to a !xl Ma ke sure the butler is fully melted. J. Remove from the heal and immediately add all the flou r. Vigorously tell the dough by hand. Put the pan back on the heat and continue bealingme dough until it comes away from the sides of the pan. The dough shoul.i look relatively dry. 4. Transfer the dough 10 a mixing bowl and allow it to cool briefly 10 a teal' perature of approximately 130°F (;4°C) or lower. Using the mixer's paQJe anachment, begin beating in the eggs one at a time. 5. Continue to add the eggs until the mixture is shiny but firm. II may na be necessary to use al1 nine eggs. The dough should pull away from the sd:s of the bowl in ,hick threads; it will not clear the bowl. 6: Put a workable amount of dough into Ihe pastry bag and pipe onto tIr sheet pan in the desired shapes al once. 7. Bake immediately, beginning at 42;cF (220°C) for 10 minutes. then lowering the heat to 37;oF C190 C C) for another 10 minutes. Continue gradually • For a crisper product. replace the milk with wa1er.
963
PIES, I'tIJTRIES AA'D COOKIES
a
lowering the oven temperature unlil the shapes are brown and dry inside. Open the oven door as liule as possible to prevent f:apid change~ in the own's temperature. Cool completely. then fill as desired. Leftovers c;m be frozen or stored at room temperature.
\p;lrn~;m:u<· \"~lu<'"S per l-ol. <32-g) l'C1\'ing: Calo ries 90. Toea l fat ~ g. SalUrall.:d fae 4 II, Choks· trill no mI!. SodIum ]/lO n~. Toea] ClIrl>ohyd ralcs 6 /I. I'mleio 2 It. \ 'iUmlo A 8%
I. Helling the butter and milk.
2. Adding the flour to the hot liquid.
4. The finished IXlIIer after the eggs
5. Piping ecbirs.
3rt
incorporated.
,l/el'ingues \kringue~
are egg whites whipped with sugar. TIle texluro:-hard or softon the rmio of sugar 10 egg w hites. A low sugar contenl in comparison wilh the egg whites creates 1I soft meringue. Soft meringues am be folded inlo a mousse or Bav;lfian to lighten ~ or used in a spongecake or soumc:. Meringues wilh only a small amount of \lJg;lr will always be soft; they will not become criSp no matter how they are ~'Jl'l"d.s
""H3rd me ringues are made wilh egg whites and an equal pan or more, by ~eighl.
of sugar. Tht:y can be incorporated into a bUller cream or pastry cream
trl&'d 10 lOp a pie or baked Alaska. TIlese toppings are usually plact."d briefly mr a broiler to caramelize the sugar. creating an alll
3- Stirring the dough to dry
il.
964 TABLE
•
CIIA?I1iR 32
32.4
.n-, MERINGUES
Typ<
Ratio of Sugar to Egg Whites
Common-hard
Twice as much or more
Conunon-soft
Equ::tl JXIns or less
Preparation
Use
Whip or fold sugar into whipped egg whites Whip or fold sugar info whipped
Pic topping: soufl\(:; cake ingtt'dial
egg whites Swiss It:l!ian
l3ultcrcream; pie lOpping; bakro
Varies
\X':lrm egg whites with sugar, then whip
Varies
Hot sugar symp poured into whipped
l3uncrcream; frosting; creme
egg whites
ChibouS(; baked
lure evaporates the eggs' moisture, leaving a crisp, sug:uy, honeyCOllll&
51n1cture. Disks of baked meringue can be used as layers in a torte or oR Cups or shells of baked meringue can Ix' filled with cream, mousse, ice CTeII or fmit. Often baked meringues also conta in ground nuts (and are then kfl{llll
as dacquoise), cocoa powder o r other flavorings.
Making Meringues There are three methods for making meringues: common, Swiss and ltalia Hegardless of which preparation method is used, the final product should Ir smooth, glossy and moist. A meringue should never be dl)' or spongelike, roo should review the procedUlI;: rUt whipping. egg whiles given in Chapler lI. Eggs,
Common Aferinglles Common meringues are made by first beating egg whites 10 a soli fO;ldl (soft peaks). Granulated sugar is then slowly beaten or folde€i into the ~ whites. The final product may be hard or son depending on Ihe !"".uio of sup to egg whites.
Swiss Meringues Swiss meringues are made by combining unwhipped egg whites ~ih sugar and warming the mixture over a bain marie to a temperature of 'P" proximately H)()OF (38°C). llJe sympy solution is then whipped until cool df"I.l stiff. The final product may be hard or soft depending on the ratio of sup! to egg whites. Swiss meringues are extremely stable but r:l1her diffirul! to pre pare. If the mLxture gets 100 hot, il will not whip properly; the result .-ill be sympy and nmny. Swiss meringue is often used as a lopping or in Intcrcream.
lIalioll Meringues Ilalian meringues are Im.de by slowly pouring a hOI sugar syrup ilm whipped egg whiles. llJe heat from the symp cooks the egg whites. adding stability. Be sure that the sugar syrup reaches the correct temperature and tIu1 il is added to the egg whiles in a slow, steady stream. Italian meringues arr used in bullercre:ml (see Chapler 33, Cakes and Frostings) o r folded into p3)" tl)' cream to produce creme Chilx>usl. They may be flavored and used as ~ C'ake filling and frosting called boiled icing.
PfES, PtiSfRfES AND COOKIES
TABLE
32.5 """'
c"'2'I.
965
TROUBLF~ II00Th'G CfhIRT FOR MERINGUF~ Solluion Old eggs Egg whites overwhipped NOt enoug.... sugar NOt baked long enough Browning too rapidly Moisture in the air
Use fresher eggs or add st a rc~ or st:lbilizer "''hip only until stiff peaks form Increase sugar lnCfe:lse baking time Do not dust with sugar before baking; reduce oven temperJtu re Do nOi refrigerate baked meringue
Fat presem Sugar added too soon
Stan over with clean bowls and utensils Allow egg whites to reach soft peaks before adding sugar
emf"
Not enough sugar Overwhipping
Add additional sugar gradually or Sfan over Whip only umil stiff peaks fonn
\01 shiny
Not enough sugar Ovcrwhipping
Add additional sligar gradually or sIan over Whip only until stiff peaks form
'ft'l!PS or beads of sugar syrup Jre rele:lscd
nils to
~n~in
any volume or
Miffness
============= .~ RECIPE 32. 10
ITALIAN MERINGUE Yield: Approx. 2 gal. (8 It)
Egg whiK"'S, room temperarure Granulated sugar
14 oz. 28 oz.
420 g 840 g
I. Place 18 ounces (S40 grams) of the Hlgar in a beavy saucepan and add enough water to moisten the sugar thoroughly. Attach a candy themlome-
ler (0 (he pan and bring the sugar to a boil over high heal. L Place the egg whites in the bowl of an electriC mixer fitted with the whip anachment. As the temperature of the boiling sugar approaches 220°F (lWC), begin whipping the egg whites. When the whites form soft peaks, gradually add the remaining 10 ounces (300 grams) of sugar. Lower the mixer speed and continue Whipping. j. When the sugar reaches 2J80F (1 15°C), pour it into the whites, with the mixer running. Pour in a steady stream between the side of the bowl and the beater. Continue whipping the whites at medium speed until they are cool. ~il1l
.....
COOKfPS .n-, Cookies are small, flat pastries usually eaten alone (allhollgh not singularly) 2nd rarely used as a COmponent in other desserts. The proliferation of cookie
966
<"0.
CHffl'ER 32 Part of the pleasure of cookies comes from their ,·ersatility. TIley may tt eaten as a midmorning snack or as the e legant end to a fonnal dinner. W· ies also pro\'ide the finishing touch [0 a serving of ice cream, custard Cf (rut Flavors :Ire limited anI}' by the baker's imagin:llion: chocolate, oallneaJ. ~ meal, fresh and dried fmit and nuts all find their w.IY into severnl [y~
Mixing Methods Most cookie doughs are mixed by the creaming method used for quick brtU and cake batters. (See Chapter 30, Quick Breads, and Chapter 33. Cakes oal Frostings.) Because cookie dough contains less liquid than these baners, tIr liquid and flour need nOt be added alternate ly, however. Cookies can bele.u· ened with baking soda, baking powder or just air and steam, Most cookiesarr high in fat, which contributes taste and tenderness :md extends shelf ltr, Overdevelopment of gluten is usually nOt a proble m with cookies becauseci their high fat and low moisture conte nts. Bw c:lreless mixing can cause !he dough to become tough ;lnd dense instead of tender and flaky.
PROCIillURE FOR MIXING COOKIE DOUGHS 1. Cre-Jm the fat and sugar together to incorporate air and to blend the ingredients completely. 2. Add the eggs gradually, scr:lping down the bowl as needed. j. Stir in the liquid ingredients. 4. Stir in the flour, 5.1It, spices and teaveners. 5. Fold in any milS, chocolate chips or chunky ingredients by hand.
Makeup Methods Cookie varieties are usually classified by the way in which the individual ad· ies are prepared, 1111S sectio n describes six preparation or makeup techniqtn drop, icebox, bar, cut-out or roUe d , pressed and wafer. Some doughs can be made up by more than o ne method, For example, chocolate chip cookie dough can be 0) baked in sheets and Cllt into ba rs, (2) dropped in mouOOs or (3) rolled into logs, chilled and sl iced like icebox cookies. Regard!essofthe makeup method used, uniformi(y of size and shape is important for appear· ance and baking time. Cookies should also be evenly sp:lCcd on sheet pamkr proper air circulation and cnlSt formation.
Drop Cookies
Drop Cookies Drop cookies are made from a soft dough that is spooned or scooped iJIo mounds for baking. Chunky cookies such as chocolate chip, oatmeal raisin am nut jumbles are common examples. Although a uniform appearance is na as important for drop cookies as for other types. uniform size and placemem results in unifornl baking time. A portion scoop is recommended for portiooinI: the dough. Drop cookies tend to be thick with a soft or chewy texture,
Icebox Cookies Icebox cookies are made from dough that is shaped into logs or rectang!es. chilled thoroughly, then sliced into individual pieces and baked :lS needed Icebox cookies can be as simple as log of chocolate chip dough Of as s0phisticated as elegant pinwheel and checkerbo:ml cookies assembled with two
,I
Icebox Cookies
P/~. PAfTR/~ AND COOKIES
colors of short dough. TIl is method usuall}1 produces unifoml, waferlike cookies with :l crisp texture.
BnrCoobies Il3r rookie dough is pressed or layered in shallow pans and cut into portions after baking, usually squares or rectangles to ll\"oid waste or scraps. 111is cateP}" also known as sheet cookies, cont:lins a wide variety of 1:lyered or fmitfilled produCts. Brownies. often considered a bar cookie, are discussed in Ottptcr 33. Cakes and Frostings. CII/·Oul or Rolled Cookies CUI·out or rolled cookies are made from a finn dough that is rolled out into a .;heel and then cut into various shapes before baking. A seemingly infi nite selection of cookie cutlers is aV:lilable, or you can use a paring knife or pastry wheel to CUt the dough into the desired shapes. Always stan clIlting cook ies from the edge of the dough, working inward. CUi the cookies as close to each lXher:ls possible 10 avoid scmps. CUI-OU! cookies are usually baked on an un!1f3St'd p:l!l to keep Ihe dough from spreading. Cut-out cookies are often garnished or decorated with nulS, glaze, fruit or t.mdies. Raw cookies should be decorated as soon as they are placed on the ]Xlllif the dough is allowed 10 stand, the surface will dry out and the garnish lill not :ldhere properly.
8(1r Cookies
Pressed Cookies .\bo referred to as bagged or spritZ cookies, these products are made with a ;00 dough thai is forced through a paSIIJ' tip or cookie gun. Pressed cookies .1re usually small. with a distinct, decomtive shape. TIle task of piping out mns of identical cookies may seem daunting. but the skill can be mastered lith praCtice and an understanding of doughs. Doughs for pressed cookies dien include eggs as their only liquid. Eggs, which are a tOllghener, contribute Ixxl)' :lnd help the cookies retain their shape. Using too much fat or too soft aHour (that is, one low in protein) can CliUse the cookies to spread and lose their slmpe.
CIl/·OIII or Rolled Cookies
lI'afer Cookies \rafer cookies are extremely thin and delicate. They are made with a thin hattOO! is poured or spread onto a baking sheet and baked. TIlen, while still /Mx, the wafer is molded into a variety of shapes. The most popular shapes are !be tighllr rolled cigarene, the ClHVC.-'d tuile and the cup·shaped tulipe. \X'afer batter is SWCCI and bunery and is often flavored with dtms zest or ground nub. The recipe for the tulipe shown in the photograph that introduces ChapIer 3-1. Cuswrds, Creams, Frozen Desserts and Dessert Sauces, is an example of ~ Infer cookie used :IS a pastry container. k'r
Pressed Cookies
Cookie Te.xtures Ttk> textures associ:lled with cookies-crispness, softness, chewiness or spread-arc affeoed by v:lrious factors, including the ratio of ingredients in the OCK!gh, the oven's temper:.lture :md the pan's coating. Understanding these factfS ~Ilo\\"s you to adjust formulas or techniques to achieve the desired results. \t'e Table 32.6.
Wt/fer Cookies
967
968
r"2' .
TABI£
CHAPTER 32
32 ,6 -.
CooKlE TEXTURES Content of
Desired Texture
Fat
Sugar
liquid
Flour
Size or Shape
Baking
Crispness
High
Low
Strong
Thin dough
Softness
Low
High
Weak
Thick dough
Chewiness
High
High
Strong
High
High; especially from eggs
Weak
Not relevant; chilled dough Not relevant; roomtemperature dough
Well done; cool on baking sheet Use pardUlK"llI·!ined pan: undcrlxlke Underb3ke; cool 0Il!Ji
Spread
High; usc granulated sugar Low; use hydroscopic sugars High; use hydrosropic sugars High; use coarse Sr:lnulatcd sugar
,
Use greased pan: kill tempernture
Storing Cookies Most cookies can be stored for up to one week in an airtight container. Dold store crisp cookies and soft cookies in the same container, howe\·er. Thero!p cookies will absorb moisture from the soft cookies, ruining the texture oflx1h. Do not store strongly flavored cookies, such as spice, with those thai ~ milder, such as shortbread. Most cookies freeze well if wrapped air-tight to prevent moisture 1055 (I freezer burn. Raw dough can also be frozen, either shaped or unshaped.
Pastry making is the backbone of dessert preparation. A wide variety of ~ doughs can be prepared from flour, fat and a liquid. Proper mixing, rollingaol shaping techniques are cnlcial to the success of the finished product. \fllh a selection of properly prepared doughs and fi llings, you can prepare an endIei variety of tempting desserts.
(j2UFSTIONS FOR DISCUSSION .n-, I. How does the type of pie filling influence the selection of a pie cruS!? \ThI type of crust wou ld be best for a pie made with fresh , uncooked fruit? Explain your answer. 2. How does rolling fat into a dough in layers (as with puff pastry) prodocea flaky proouct? Why isn't sweet dough {which contains a high rntio of butter} flaky? 3. Explain the difference between a cream pie filling and a custard pie filling. Give twO examples of each type of filling. 4. Lisl and describe three ways of preparing fruit fillings for pies.
PIES, PASTRIES AND COOKIES c"\!\..
s. Why is it s,.,id that eclair paste is Ihe only dough Ihal is cooked before il is
baked? Why is this step necess.'uy? List three ways for using eclair paste in making classic dessens. 6 E'tplain the differences and similarities between conunon, Swiss and Italian meringues. - list and describe four makeup methods for cookie doughs.
~ ======
Tue STONY BI!IIINI) TIlE emf
History was made in 1930 when Ruth lakefield, innkeeper of the Toll House Inn in t1tilIllan, Massachusetts, cut up a semi-sweet chocolate bar and added the pieces to cookie ib.tgh. She was disappoinled, however, lhat ~le p;ns kept their shape when baked-until her first bite, thai is. ~Irs. Wakefield contacted Nestl€ Foods CorJXlI'3IiOn. ",hich published her cookie recipe on dr"rawer of their semi-sv.'Cet chocolate bars.
The recipe's popularity led Nestle's to market chocolate chi[lS in 1939. Under tenus of its agreemmt with the Toll House Inn, Nes~€ could not aller the recipe for Original Toll HOuse® Cookie; for 40 rears. When the agreement expired in 1979, Nestle simplified the recipe. The original Original Toll House~ Cookie recipe is no longer published by Nestl€ Foods, but is reprinted here for the sake of tradition.
RECIPE 32. 11
ORIGINAL TOll IloUSE® COOKIES Yield: SO 2·in. Cookies
1c.
t
2 Thsp.
1'2 tsp.
1/2 lSI'. 1/2 C,
611)sp.
6Thsp. 1/2 tsp.
114 "po
Sifted cake flour Baking sodll Sa lt Butter, softened Granu lated sugar Packed brown sugar Vanilla extrad Water
I
Egg
1 package (6 oz. or 1 c.)
Nestle Toll HouseS Semi-Sweet Chocolate Morsels Nuts, chopped coarse
112 c.
I. Sift the flour, baking soda and salt together and set aside.
1. Combine the butter, sug.'rs. vanilla and water; beat until creamy. Beat in egg. Add the flour mixture; mix well. Stir in Nestle Toll House~ SemiSweet Chocolate Morsels and nuts. j Drop well-rounded half lellspoons of cookie dough onto greased cookie sheets. Bake lit 375°F for 10-12 minutes. l,ppItnimale V;J.lues per cookie: Calorie!! 60. To ut fat 3.5 g, Saturated {at 2 g. Cho tcsterol 9 mg,
5DdIum 36 mg. TOl:lI C3rOOhrllrate$ 7 g, Protein .5 g
969
970
ClW'!>" 32
dnDfflONAL PIE,
PASTRY AND COOKIE FORMULAS Several of the formulas given in the following pages are combinations ". pastry items presented in this chapter and the creams. custards and ah:r dessen. prodUClS covered in (){hcr ChltPlcrs. For example, the Slrawbtlrr Napoleon is made with the puff past!)' discussed in this chapler, the pa9I!
cream and creme Chantilly discussed in Chapter 34, Custards, Creams, FI'O!l Desserts and Dessert Sauces, and the fond:mt glaze discussed in Chaple( 3i Cakes and Frostings.
RECI PE 32. 12
GATEAU Sr. HONORE NOTE..' lbis dish appetlf'$ ill/be Cbapter ~lillgpbolograpb, Cbejs SII$(III Felliger ami Mar)' Sue Millikell
or Ihe former CITY RESTAURANT, Los A.'IGF.LI!S, CA Yield:
10 Servings
Puff past!)' Milk Unsal!ed butter Salt All-purpose flollr Eggs Pastry Cream (recipe follows)
Granulated sugar Water City Chocolate (recipe foll ows) Heavy cream, cold Semi-sweet chocolate, melted
lib.
4;0 g
4 oz. I 3/4 oz. liS lSp.
;og
2 1/2 oz. 2 liS needed 10 oz. 4 oz. as needed 1 pc 3 oz.
120 mI
1/2 ml
75 g 2 as needed
JOOg 120ml as needed 450ml
90g
1. Roll OUI the puff pastry to form a IO-inch (25-centimeter) square; resent
2.
3.
4.
5.
in the refrigerator. Make the cream puff dough by combining the milk, buner and sal! ina medium-heavy saucepan. Bring to a boiL Add the flour all at once. Mil quickly with a wooden spoon until a ball forms on the spoon and lilt flour is evenly moistened. Transfer to 11 bowl and add the eggs one all time, beating well after each addition. Fit a piping bag with a large plain tip; fill it with the cream puff dougtI. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Pipe the dough onto the bating sheet to form small circles :Ibout the size of quarters. \\ith a ~ngtt dipped in cold water, flatten the point on top of each puff. Drop the 1* on the counter to set the puffs. Bake at 450"F (23Q"C) until uniformly puffed and golden, approximately 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 37;oP 090°C) and bake an additiooil 1S-20 minutes. Test for doncncss by opening a puff. The inside sOOJld be totally dry. Set aside to coolon a rack. place the puff pastry on a parchment-paper-lined baking sheet and. ~1b a IO-inch (25-centimeter) round cake pan inverted over the dough, llm
PIES, PASl'RlES AND COOKIES
a circle using a sharp knife. This will be the base for the cake. Remo\'e the excess dough and prick the circle of puff pastry all over with a fork; set in the refriger:uor to rest for 15 minutes. 6. Bake the puff pastry at 425°F (2200C) until puffed and golden, approxim:lIely 20 mimLles. Reserve at room tempemture. 7. Fit a piping bag with a #2 tip; fill it with pastry cream. Make a hole in the bouorn of each puff using a slllall paring knife. Fill each puff with pastry cream and reserve. S. To make the clrarnel, combine the sugar and water in a saucepan and cook until golden brown. Immediately remove from heal. Using a fork , dip half of each cream puff into the warm caramel and place on a tray lined with parchment paper. When the caramel has set, turn each puff and dip the uncoated half in the Cllramel. Immediately armnge the puffs, flat side up, along the edge of the cooled puff pastry to form the w31l. ~
Fill the center of the pastry with a even layer of City Chocolate. Id \\:!hip the cold cream until soft peaks form. Fold half of this cream into the 3 ounces (90 grams) of melted chocolate and set aside. II. S!X>On the remaining whipped cream into :t pastry bag fitted with a #8 plain lip. Pipe about five rows of Hershey's Kiss-shaped domes over the chocolate filling, leaving even spaces between the rows. Fill the bag with the chocolate-flavored cream and repeal, filling the spaces between rows. Chill umil serving time. ,~Ie \'Jlues
n
per II000ke ser,'ing: Calories 400. Total r':l1 25 g. Saturated fal 15 g, Cho lcs. ilS 11\jI. Sodium 65 mg, Total carboh}'dra lcs 41 g. Protein 4 g. Vitamin A 25%
PASTRY CREAM Yield: I 1/4 pI. (Goo m])
Granulated sugar Cornstarch Egg yolks Milk Vlnilla extract
4 oz. 41bsp. 4
120 g
60 ml
I pI.
4 450 ml
t/ 2 tsp.
2 ml
J. ,\Iix 2 ounces (60 gmll1s) of sugar and al! the cornslafch in a bowl. Add the egg yolks and mix until a paste is formed. Stir in 4 ounces (I20 grams) of milk.
1. Combine the remaining milk and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil.
Pour the hot milk into the egg yolk mLxture. whisking constantly. Then pour the mLxture b.1ck into the pan . .1 Cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until smooth and thick. Re1l\O\'e from the heal and stir for an additional minute. Stir in the vanilla and transfer to a bowl. 4. Col'er with buttered parchment paper touching the top and chill for a minimum of 2 hours or as long as 2 days. wouma1e \'31ues
pt'T
1.01.. (30-g) serving, Calories 30, Tota l fat 1 g, Saturated fat 0 g. Cho lcs.
ifill :!; ms. Sodium 10 mg. Total carboh yd ratcs 5 g. Protein I g
Continued
97J
972 '"". CIW'IF.R 32
CIIT CHOCOLATE Yield: I lb. 8 oz. (750 g)
Brandy Golden raisins
I 1/21bsp.
20m!
1 1/2 Oz.
4; g
Unsalted butler
9 oz. 7 oz.
270 g 210 g
Eggs, separ.lIed
;
;
Semi-sweet chocolate
1. Combine the brandy aod raisins in a small saucepan and warm ol"erlor heat. Reserve.
2. Chop the chocolate into small pieces and melt with the butter over 3 bail marie. Remove from the hem and stir in the raisins and brandy, Whisk II the yolks until combined.
J. Whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form. Gently fold the whites i/I.l chocolate mixture in (wo stages. Approximate values IX'r 1-.07.. (30-8) serving: Calories 120, Total fat 9 8. Saturate
============= ~ ============ RECiPE 32. 13
CANNOU
AlIA
S IC/MANA
Cbef Odette Fada of the former REX ILRISTORANTE, Los A\"G~ c.o\ Yield: 12 Pieces
Dough:
All-purpose flour Granulated sugar Cocoa powder Red wine Filling: Orange zest, candied, chopped Chocolate chips Pistachio nlllS, chopped Confectioner's sugar, sifted Fresh riCOIta cheese
2 oz. 1/2 oz. 1/2 oz. I1bsp.
60g
t oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 1/2 oz. 12 oz.
30 g 30 g 109
15 g 15 g 15 ml
45 g J60g
I. To make the cannoli, sift the dry ingredients together, then stir in the I\vr Add more wine if necessary to produce a stiff dough. Chill the dough raat least 1 hour. 2. Roll the dough very thin and cut it into 2-inch (; -cemimeter) squares. 3. Roll each square of dough around a dowel and deep-fry until crisp, approximately 1 minute. Drain on absorbent paper. 4. To make the filling, stir all the filling ingredients together and chiU urd ready 10 use. 5. To assemble, fit a piping bag with a large plain tip; fill with the filling mil· ture and pipe it into each of the fried cannoli shells.
PIES, PA>I'RIES AND COOKIES C"'!:\..
6 &n'e WIlh a pool of dark chocolate sauce, garnished with candied fruits. ~lm;ue ,";\lues per piece: Calories 100. Total fat 3.5 g. SalUrated fat 1 g, Cholest~1 ]0 mg, DIlum 3) rug. Total carbohydrates ]4 ~, Protein 3 ~. Cialn w s;uur:ucd fJt; low chobl.croi;
","m
====== -,.,-, ======= RECIPE 32. 14
LINZER TART Cbefs Susal/ Felliger mul Mary' Sue Milliken of the former Cln' RFSfAURANT, Los A'iGF.L£;, CA
'lcld: 8-10 Servings Unsalted bUller, softened Gr:lnulated sugar Egg yolks Orange lcst lemon zest All-purpose flour Hal-clnuts, ground fine Blking powder Cinnamon, ground OO\'CS, ground Salt Raspberry preserves
8 oz. 8 oz. 2
21bsp. I Thsp. 11 oz. 6 oz. I tsp. 2 tSp. 1/2 lSp. 1/4 lSp. 60z.
225 g 225 g 2 30ml 15 ml 330 g 180 g 5ml iO ml 2 ml Iml 180 g
/. To make the dough, cre::tm together the butter and sugar umil light and
nuff),. Add the egg yolks, orange and lemon zests. Beat umil well combined. l In another bawl, mix together all the remaining ingredients except the prese["\"Cs. Add the dry mixture all at once to the creamed mixture and mix briefly, until just combined. (This dough looks more like cookie dough than pastry.) Wrap in plastic and chill until firm, about 4 hours or overnight. j. Di\'iclc the dough in half. On a generously floured board, briefly knead one piece of dough and flatten it with Ihe palm of your hand. Gently roll the dough OUI 1/4 inch (6 millimeters) thick and lISC il to line a 9- or IO-inch (22. or 25- centimeter) tart pan with a removable bauom. This rich dough patches easily. Chill for about 10 minutes. t Roll out the second piece of dough to form a 12 inch x 4 inch (30 cenlimeter x 10 centimeter) rectangle. Using a sharp knife or pastry wheel, ClIt lengthwise strips, about 1/3 inch (.8 centimeler) wide. S. Remove the lined tart shell from the refrigeralor and spread the raspberry preserves e\'enly over it. To cre'lte the lattice pattern wilh (he pastry strips, fir51 lay some strips in parallel lines, 1/ 2 inch (12 millimeters) apan. Then by a second row of strips at a 45--degree angle to the firs\. Press the Strips to the edge of the Cnlst to seal. , Bake at 350°F (ISOOC) untillhe Cnlst is golden brown and the filling is bubbly in center, :lpproximalcly 4S minutes. Set aside to coo!. 'fl:mX!tTlJte v:llucs per ]/ II).I:ln serving: Calor;"'. , 300, Total fal 29 g, Saturated fJt 12 g, CholestroI 90 mg, Sodiu m 65 mj{, Total carboh)·dr.lIes 7 g, Protein 4 g, Vitamin A 20%, Claims- low tOOrum; good sourre of fiber
973
974
".. CHAP11iR32
RECIPE 32. 15
Q UICHE DOUGH Yield, 8 lb. (3.6 kg) All-purpose flour
Salt Unsalted butter, cold
Eggs
4 lb. 7 oz. I 1/2oz, 21b. 3 oz. 12
2 kg
4; g I kg 12
1. Combine the flour and salt in :1 mixer bowl fined with the paddle anxt.. ment. CUI in the buner until the mixtlLre looks like coarse cornmeal. 2. Whisk the eggs together to blend, then add them slowly [0 (he dry diems. Blend only unlil the dough comes together in :1 ball. 3. Remove from the mixer, cover and chill umil ready to use. Appro)[imate v;llues per \-oz. (3O.g) serving: Caklries 120. Total fal 7 g. le I'Q1 35 mg, Sodi um 140 mg. Total carbo h)'dr:ale5 12.'l. Protein ! g
S~luraled
~
fal4 So Qob
RECIPE 32. 16
L EAtON MERlNGUE PIE Yield: 2 9-in. (22-cm) Pies Granulated sugar Cornstarch
lib. 4 oz.
600g
3 oz.
90g pinch 750 IlIl
Salt Water, cold Egg yolks
pinch 24 oz.
lemon juice, fresh
8 oz. 2 Thsp. I oz. 2 8 oz. 8 oz.
Lemon zest, grated
Butter Flaky dough pie shells, baked Egg whites Granulated sugar
iO
iO 2;0 ml
60 ml 60g 2 2;0 g 250 g
1. To make the filling, combine the I pound 4 ounces (600 grams) of sup.
2.
3. 4. 5.
6.
cornstarch, salt and water in a heavy saucepan. Cook over mediunHiip heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture becomes thick and almost ckar Remove from the heat and slowly whisk in the egg yolks. Stir until COOlpletely blended. Return to the heat lind cook, stirring consta mlr, until thick and smooth. Stir in the lemon iuice and zest. When the liquid is completely inCOlj» !":lted, remove the filling from the heat. Add the buner and Slir unt~ mekrd Set the fi lling aside to cool briefly. Fill IWO prebaked pie shells \\ith tlr lemon filling. To prepare the meringue, whip the egg whites until soft peaks fOllD. Slowly add the 8 ounces (250 grams) of sugar while whisking constandy. The meringue should be stiff and glossy, nOl dry or spongy looking. Mound the meringue over the filling , creating decorative patterns \\th J spatula. Be sure 10 spread the meringue to the edge of the crust so !hal aI the filling is covered.
PIES, PISTRIES AND COOKIES
7. Place the pie in a 400°F (200°C) oven until the meringue is golden brown, approximately 5-8 minutes. Let cool at room temperdture, then refrigerate. Serve the 5.1me day. o.pproXI/IUIC \';Ilues per vs.pie serving: Calories 400, Tot:ll fat 12 g, Saturated fat
RECIPE 32.17
FRESH STRAWBERRY PIE Yield: 2 9-in. (22-an) Pies
Gmnulated sugar Water Cornstarch Water, cold Salt lemon juice Red food coloring Fresh strawberries, rinsed and sliced in half Fbky dough pie shells, baked Whipped cream
lib. 7 oz. Soz. 2 112 oz. 12 oz. Il2tsp. 4 1bsp. as needed
700 g 450 ml 75 g 360 ml 2 ml 60ml as needed
2 qt. 2
2 It 2
as needed
as needed
1. Bring the sugar and S ounces (225 milliliters) of water to a boil. 2 Dissolve the cornstarch in the cold water and add to the boiling liquid. Cook over low heal until clear. approximately 5 minutes. j. Stir in the salt, lemon jll ice and enough red food coloring to produce a bright red color. t I'our this glaze over the strawberries and toss gently to coat them. Spoon the filling into the prepared pie shells. Chill thoroughly and lOp with whipped cream for service. ApproXIITIl!C v;llues per liS-pic serving: Calories 330. Total fat 8 g, Saturated fat 2 g, Ololcstcrol
o mg. Sodium 200 mg. Total carboh)'dralcs 63 g, Protein 2 g, "I~min C 80%
RECIPE 32.18
BlACKBERRY COBBLER A cobbler is a home-style baked fmit dessert, IIsl/ally made llIi1h a top enlst of jlaky pie dOllgh, biscuit do 11gb or strellsel topping. 71)(> fillished prodllct will he slightly nl1lny and is often seroed wanll in a bowl or rimmed dish, accomfXlIlied by whipped cream or ice cream . Yield: 10 Servings
IQF blackberries
Gmnulated sugar Tapiool. instant Water UnS:lhed butter Lemon zest
2 qt. 8 oz. 2 oz. 10 oz.
2h
450 g
60 g 300 m!
2 oz.
60g
I1bsp.
15 ml Com/filled
975
976
.
CIW'l7iR 32
1. Combine all the ingredients, tossing the berries gently until well coattIl with the other ingredients. 2. Transfer to a lighily bllnered half-sized hotel pan, then set aside for J( b; 30 minutes before baking. J. TIle cobbler can be lopped with Flaky Pie Dough (Recipe 32,0, Biilllf Dough (Recipe 30. I) or Slfeusei Topping (Recipe 30.4) before Ixlking. 4. B.1ke at 3500F OSOOC) umil (he berry mixture bubbles and the tru5I ll;Ppropriately browned. appro ximately 40-50 minUles. Approximate I':Jlucs per 6-oz. ( l 56-g) ~r... ing, CalorH.'S 21 0, TOial fat 5 g, Saturated fat 3 g. CIMJI5.
terol 20 mg, Sodium 10 mg, Tota l carboh)'dr.ucs 39 g, Protein I g. VItamin C 45'\
...".,.., ====== RECIPE 32. 19
PECAN PIE WITH OATMEAL STOlff ICE AND GINGER CAIwfEL SAUCE
CREAM
PIIOENIX BREWING CO., ATUSTA, GA Executive CbejKetJill POIIZO
Yield: I lO-in. (24-c01) Pie
Eggs
;
;
Dark com syrup Granulated sugar
I 1/ 3 c.
320ml 320 mI 5 ml 45 mI 120 ml nOml I
Vanilla extract Whole bUller, melled StoUl Pecan pieces lO-inch pie crust, unbaked
I 1/3 e. 1 tsp.
3lbsp. 1/2 c. 3 c. I
1. Beat the eggs thoroughly. Add the corn syrup, sugar, vanilla, buller JD1
stout. Mix until well blended. 2. Fold in the pecans and pour the mixture into the pie crust. 3, Bake at 350c F (l80°C) until set, approximately 45--55 minutes. 4. Allow the pie to cool completely before service. Approxinute \'alues per 118 pie: Calories 800. Tout fat 45 g. S;oturatt-d rat 8 g. C/lole;trrol ill III Sodium 210 mg, Total carbohydrate:,; 91 g. PrOlein 8 g
OAnlEAL STOUT ICE CREAM Yield: 3 qt.
j\'lilk Heavy cream Oalmeal stoul Dark corn syrup Granulated sugar Egg yolks Vanilla beans, seeded
I qt. I ql.
Ie.
1/2 c. Ie. 2 2
lit I It 225 ml 120 m1 225 ml 2 2
1. In a medium-sized 5.1UCCpot , hC:lt tile milk and cream.
2. In a separate saLlcepot, bring the oatmeal stout to a boil and reduce to I ! cup. Add corn syrup and remove from heat.
PIES, PASTRIES AII'D COOKIES
In a small mixing bowl, combine sugar, egg yolks and vanilla beans. Mix well. t When the cream mi.xture comes to a boil, temper it into tile egg mixture. \\nen all the crelllll mixture is incorporated into eggs, strain. 5. Allow mi.xture to cool completely. Gently stir tile stout reduction into the cooled cream and eggs. 6. Freeze mixture in ice cream freezer.
j
~un.tle '"l11JC:l per 1 2
GINGER CARAMEL SAUCE Yield: 3 c. (720 m!)
I lb.
Granubled sugar Water lemon juice Ginger, fresh, peeled, and chopped
6 oz.
Heavy cream
I 1/2 c.
180 g 350 ml
l'nsalted buller
2 oz.
60g
1/3 c. 1/2 ~p.
500 g 75 ml 2 ml
Bring the sugar, water and lemon juice to a boil in a small saucepan. 1. Cook o\·er medium heat unlil the syrup turns a golden amber color. Add the ginger. j. Remove the saucepan from Ihe heat and slowly add the cream. ,t Rt'1.um the pan 10 Ihe hem and cook for 2-3 more minutes. S. Add the bUller and stir to melt. Serve the sauce warm. I.
~e '"llues per l-
~ ==============
RECIPE 32.20
CHOCOLAJ'E MACADAMIA
NUT
PRALINE TOKI'E
TIlE SOUWERS RF..soRT, C>J!EFREE, AZ Corporale E.\"ecllli/le CheJCharles Wi/i!)'
r.eld: 2 9 1/2-in. (23-cm) Tones .-\II-purpose flOllr Granulated sugar lnsalted bUller, cold [gg },olks Heal)' cream :,emi-sweet chocolate, melted .\L1ca(ilmia Filling (recipe follows) Chocolale Cream Filling (recipe follows) Creme Chantilly (Recipe 34.6) Dark chocolate shavings '{hite chocolate shavings
40. 2/30. 10 oz. 2
900ml ISO ml 300g 2 45 ml
3 1bsp. 3 oz .
90g
I
I
1 ql. 1 II as needed for garnish :IS needed for garnish Comillucd
(""2\,
977
978 .",
CIMmR 32
1. Combine flour and sugar in a mixing bowl. 2. Cut the cold butter into the flour until the mb:rure looks like collllllt'3! J. Stir together the egg yolks and cream; add to the flour mixture. Mi.'( udi (he dough comes together and forms a ball. \'\/rap the dough in ph.'b: wrap and chill thoroughly. 4. When the dough is chilled and firm.·roll it OUI to a thickness of 18[01+ inch (300-600 millimeters) and line two false-bottom tan pans. em·t'( IIr dough with parchment paper topped with pie weights or dry beans. 5. Bake the {Jrt shells at 375°F (180°C) until golden brown, approximately Ii minutes. Remove the baking weights and parchment paper. 6. Brush the bouom of the shells with melted chocolate. Allow the chocobt to set at room temperature. 7. Pour the Macadamia Filling into the two cooled pastry shells. Chill feu least 1 hour. 8. Pour the Chocolate Cream Filling over the chilled fo.'lacadamia Filling JOO spread evenly. Chill for at least 2 hours or until the filling is firm. 9. Remove each tOrte from its p:lIl and place on a serving platter. Top \\1b Creme Chamilly, using a spatula or piping bag to create an attr:lai\'{'~ sign. Garnish with dark and white chocolate sh:lVings. Approximate '':lIlIeS per t/8.·IJ" ~"1\ing, Calories 930. TOlal fat {f:J g. Saturated fat 3; g. CbobImI 200 mg, Sodium 280 mg. Tota l carboh)'drate5 69 g, Protein 8 g. Vitamin A ~ Iron 15'-
MACADAMIA FILLING 1/4 c.
Light corn syrup Granulated sugar Unsalted buner, melted Hea\l' cream r-,'Iacadamia nuts, unsalted, toasted and coarsely chopped
I 1/2
C.
60ml
J60g
6 oz.
180g 180 m!
2 1/2 c,
600g
607..
1. In a heavy-bottomed &1UCepan, combine corn syntp and sugar. Cook OIl" medium heat umil sugar is completely dissolved. 2. Increase the heat 10 medium high. Stir mixture constantly until it rtaC~' deep golden color. J. Reduce the heat to low; carefully add the butter and Slir slowly \\ith a whisk until the bUller is melted. 4. Slowly add the cream, stirring with a whisk until butter and cream aft' tx.h completel}' incorporated. Remove from the heat. Stir in the macadamia nUls.
CHOCOLATE CREAM FILLING Sour cream He-J\'Y cream Whole eggs Egg yolks Corn starch Semi-sweet chocolate, finely chopped 1,
1 c. 1 c. 2
225 ml 225 ml 2
4 3/4 Thsp.
4
6 oz,
180 g
11 ml
Combine all the ingredients except the chocolate in a large bowl Ol'er a bain marie or double boiler. Whisking constantly, cook the mixture ()I"I.'f
PIES, PAfl'RIPS AND COOlJPS
simmering water until it is the consistency of mayonnaise, approximately 5-10 minutes. 1. Remov(" from the heal. Add the chocolate and stir until it is completely melted and the mixture is smooth.
RECIPE 32.2 1
FRENCH APPLE TART 'NOTE: The (lmOl/fIt of each ingredient lleeded, the yield (llId the baking lime will depend Oil tbe capacity (/lui 1ll/lIIbe,. of tan moltis used. This procedure alii be used for individual tanlets or large roul/d, rect(lllgll/ar
or daisy-sbaped 1(111 /JCms. Sweet Dough (Recipe 32.2) Almond Cre
as needed as needed as as as as
needed needed needed needed
I. Linc the tart forms with pate sucree. Do not prick the dough. 1. Pipe in an even Ja}rer of almond cream. j Arrange Ihe apples in overlapping rows covering the almond cream completely. ( Brush the lOp of the apples with melted butter and sprinkle lightly wilh granul:tled sugar. S Bake 3t 375c F (t90°C) until the Cnlst is done and the apples are light brown. , Allow the t
\":Jtucs pt'f 4-oz. (l2()..g) serving: Calo ries 39;, Tota l fat 17 g, SalUralt'd fal 7 g. ChobItrol l.H mg. Sodium 98 mg. Total carbohydrates 56 g. Protem 7 g, Vitamin A 12%
~ =============== RECIPE 32.22
PEAR FINANCIER RITZ-CARLTON IIOTEL, OIlCA.OO, It Execlllit'e CbefGeorge Bumbaris and CbejS(lTab Stegner
Yield: 6 Servings Buller. melted Almond Financier (recipe follows) Poached Pears (recipe follows) Powdered sugar Fresh herbs hnilla Creme Glace (recipe follows)
2 TI)Sp. 30 ml 1 1 1 1 as needed for garnish as needed for garnish 6 scoops 6 scoops Continued
,
-'.
979
980 '""'. CIIfffE~ 32
1. To prepare each serving, lightly buner an individual serving-sized baking d ish. Fill with the financie r mixture, spreading evenly.
2. Stand a poached pear on
lOp
of the almond mixture.
3. Bake at 375°F (J80°C) umil golden brown, approximately 25--30 minUIO. 4. Dust with powdered sugar and garnish with fresh herbs. 5. Serve warm with a scoop of Vanilla Creme Glace. Approxim:l1e values per serving: CaIorir:$ 572. Tocal fat 32 g, Saturated rat 17 g, Cboles\mll l?i'l Sodium 317 mg, Total carbohydrate!! 66 g. Protein 7 g. Vitamin A 20%
Granulated sugar Water Dry white wine
POACHED PEARS I pt. 3 c. 3 c.
500 m! nOml nOm!
Lemon, cut in half
I
I
Vanilla bean, scraped Bay leaf
1/2
1/2
Thyme
1 sprig
1 sprig
Peppercorns
3
3
6
6
Bose pears, peeled and cored,
leaving the stem attached
1. Combine all ingredients in a large nonreactive saucepan. 2. Cur a piece of parchment paper 10 fit the inside of the pan and plare illi rectly over the pears and liquid. 3. Bring the mixture to a boil, then immediately reduce the heat to a simrla. 4. Poach the pears until very tender, approximately 30-40 minutes. Tesl ~ piercing each pear with a paring knife. TIle knife should slide in easi!)·. 5. Remove the pears from the poaching liquid to cool. Leftover pears fJIl)'be kept up to 4 days if refrigerated in their poaching liquid.
Almond meal Powdered sugar AII·purpose flour Egg whites Whole butler
ALMOND FINANCIER 2 oz. 5 oz. 2 oz. 4 oz. 5 oz.
60g 150 g
60g 120 g 150 g
/ , Combine the almond flour, powdered sugar and all~purpose flour m t small bowl. 2. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until foamy. 3. In a saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat and cook until it bega to tum golden brown. Strain the butter through cheesecloth and Se{ aside. but do nOt allow it to cool. 4. Slowly whisk the dry ingredients into the egg whites. Mix until smooh. 5. Slowly pour the butter into the baner, whisking constantly.
PIES, PASTRltSANDCOOKltS
Gel glace stabilizer Granulated sugar ,\tilk \'onf:u milk powder Glucose atornisee European bUller
VANILLA CREME GLACE 1/2 oz. 12 oz. I 1/2 qt.
1 1/2 Ii I{)() g 125 g 240 g
80z.
981
12 g 350 g
3 1/2 oz.
4 oz.
~.
\"anilla beans, split and scraped
j
j
Egg yolks
6 oz.
175 g
I. Combine the gel glace stabilizer with about 1 ounce GO grams) of the sugar and SCI aside. l Combine the milk and milk powder in a saucepan over medium heat.
j \rhcn the temperatu re of the milk reaches 77°F (25°C), add the remaining sugar :md Ihe glucose atomisee and continue cooking.
t At 95°F (35°C), add the butter and vanilla.
S At ]().jOF (40°C), add the egg yolks. , At I WF (45°C), add the gel glace stabilizer, ", Slining frequently, continue cooking the mixture to 185°F (85°C). Stra in, then blend with a hand blender for 1 minute. S. Cool over :m ice bath and refrigerate overnight before churning in an ice. cream machine. If'!)IOXttIlJte I'alues per l-oz. (28-g) serving; Calories 60. Total fal 3.5 g, Saturated fal 2 g, Choles_ aoilS 1Il8, Sodium 35 mg, Toul carbohydrates 7 g, Prote in 1 g
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 32.23
FRESH BERRY TART
I . Arranging the frui t over the pastry
cream.
Yield: I 9-in. (22-cm) Tan ~I\"et:t
Dough tan shell, fully b:lked (Recipe 32.2)
Par}' Cream (Recipe 34.2)
I pI.
FrtSh berries such as strawberries, blackberries, blueberries or raspberries Apricot glaze
500 ml
3 pI. as needed
1.5 It as needed
/, fill a cool tan shcll with pastry cream. l :\rrange the berries over the pastry cream in an even layer. Be sure to place the berries so Ihat the pastry cream is covered. ! Heat the apricot glaze and brush over the frui l 10 form a smooth coating. lUIW: \-:l1ues per 1/6 13M: Calories 135, Tout fat 3 g. Salurau,d fat I g, Cholesterol 2 mg, !all. 61 rug, Tou l carboh)'drall:S 26 g, Prolcln 2 g
2. Brushing the apricot glaze over the frui l.
982
CIW'IliR 32
RECi PE 32.24
PERSIiJMfON SHORI'CAKE TART THE BOWERS RESORT,
c.\RIl'Rf.E, AZ
Corpomle Executive Cbe! Charles l'Pi/C)' Yield: 1 9-in. (23-cm) Tart
Persimmon Filling (recipe follows) Sho rtcake Tan Crust. baked
(recipe follows) Granulated sugar Heavy cream Nutmeg, ground
as needed
as needed
I
I
2lbsp. 9 oz. pinch
30ml 270 Ill! pinch
/, Spoon the Persimmon Filling into the prebaked lart sugar evenly over the persimmons. 2. Pour the cream over the persimmons and sprinkle lightly with nutnq
3. Bake at 400°F (200°C) for 15
minlltes, Reduce the oven temperature., 350°F osoGe) and bake until the filling is set, approximately 15 minult1-
4. Serve the tart warm , accompanied wilh fresn berries, vanilla ice crt':lmMl a sprig of mint. Approximate '"3lucs per I 8 1an: Calories 370. Tl)(ai fal 2; g. Salur:ued fat 15 g. CholcAml l mg, SOdium 330 mg. To tal carbobydnle5 31 g. Prole;n 4 g. Vitamin" 35~
PERSIMMON FILLING Japanese persimmons (Fuyu) 3 Unsal!ed butter
3
Granulated sugar
Ilbsp. 2 ts p.
15 g JO ml
Cinnamon, ground
pinch
pinch
Vanilla extmct
1/4 tsp.
I ml
I. Peel and slice the persimmons.
2. Heat the buuer in a large saute pan. Add the persimmons, sugar and iiinamon and cook until tender, approximately 2 minutes. heat and add the vanilla. Approxil1tlle values per cup (240 m1): Calories 180, Toml fat 4.; g. Saturated fat 2.:i g, ChobInI 10 mg, Sodium 45 mg, Total carbohydrate!! 34 g, Protein I g. Vitami n A oiO'III, Vitamin CIf'-
SHORTCAKE TART CRUST 1 1/2 c. 2112 1bsp.
340mJ 37 mJ
Kosher salt Unsalted butter Egg yolks, hard boiled and passed through a sieve
1 tsp. 1 1/2 lSI'. 1/2 lSp. 4 TI)Sp. + I lSp.
7 ml 2 oj 65 mJ
2
2
Heavy cream
1/2 c.
12Q ml
All-purpose flour
Granulated sugar Baking soda Cream of tartar
5 ml
PIES. I'ASTRIFS AND rooKIES ~ I. Stir all the dl)' ingredients together in a mixing bowl. Cut the buner in with rour fingertips until the mixture resembles cornmeal. 1 Add the egg yolks and mix welL Add the cream and slir unlil incorporated. 1. Tum Ihe dough out 0 010 a ]ighlly noured surface and knead . • Roll the dough inlo a IO-inch (24-cenlimeter) circle about 3/8 inch (9 millimeters) thick. Carefully transfer 10 a 9-inch fl uted tart pan. Press the dough into Ihe sides of the pan, then trim off Ihe excess. Chill. S Line the lart shell with parchment paper and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake at 375°F 09Q°C) until lightly browned, approximarely 12 minutes. Remove the pie weights lind cool to room temperature. ~le \·~tucs pcr 2-oz. (~-g) serving: Calories 220. Total fat t3 g. saturated fat 8 g. CholesIfoI W mg, Sodium 3tO mg. Total carboh)'drates 21 g. Protein 3 g. Vitamin A 15%
RECIPE 32.25
Q UICK P UFF PASTRY ADAI'Tf.D ~1tOM
NICK MALGIERI'S PERFECt' PASTRY
Ikld: I lb. 4 oz. (560 g)
Unbleached all-purpose flou r Cake flour I.:nsalted bUller S3lt Water, \'ery cold
6 1/4 oz. I 1/4 oz.
ISO g 37 g
Boz.
225 g 2ml 120 ml
112
~p.
4 oz.
/. To mix the dough, place the all-purpose flour in a 2-quart mixer bowl and sift the cake flour over it. Thoroughly stir the two flours togethe r. 2 Slice I ounce (30 gmms) of the butter into thin pieces and add to the bowl. Ru b in the butter by hand, tossing and squeezing in the buller until no lIisible pieces remain. J. Cut the remaining butter into I/2-inch (I2-millimeter) cubes. Add the butter cubes to the fl our mixture. Toss with a rubber spatula just to separate and distribute tile butter. Do not rub the butter into the flour. t Dissolve the salt in the water. Make a well in the flour-buuer mixture and add the water. Toss gently with the spatula until the dough is evenly moistened. Add drops of \vater, if necessal)', to complete the moistening. Press and squeeze the dough in a bowl to form a rough cylinder. S To turn the dough, first lightly flour the work surface and the dough. Using the palm of your hand, press down on the dough three or four times to shape the dough into a rough rectangle. , Press and pound the dough with a rolling pin to form an even reoangle about 1/2 inch (J 2 millimeters) thick. Roll the dough back and forth along ilS length once or twice until it is an even rectangle about 114 inch (6 millimeters) thick. At this stage, pieces of butter are likely (0 stick to the work surface. If the dough docs Slick, loosen il with a long spatula or scraper. Clean the surface 10 minimize fu nhe r sticking. 7. Fold both ends of the dough in toward the center, then fold (hem in toward (he center again to make fOllr layers. The folded package of dough Continued
983
984 ""'-
C/W'l1!R 32
will resemble a book. Position the package of dough so that the on the left. 8. Lightly flour the work surface and the dough and repeal the P""'l" before, Roll the dough along its length as before, then roll several along its width to form a rectangle approximately 6 inches x 18 ;00""" cemimeters x 45 cemimeters). Fold the dough, both ends in toward dr
eemer, then over again as before. Repeat the process once more so IhI the dough will have three double turns, 9. Wrap the dough well in pl:lslic :lnd chill for al least I hour 1xIi:c using.
la
The dough can be refrigcl'3tcd for about three days or frozen for upkl
one month. Defrost froze n dough in the refrigcrJlor overnight befare using it Approximate values per 3-{)z. (88-g) scl'virlg: Calo r ies 480, Total fat 37 g, Saturated fat 23 g. QI.
lesteroi 100 mg, Sodium 240 mg. Total carbohydrates 31 g. Protei n 5 g. Vitamin A 3".
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 32.26
FRESH PEACH TART WI11l AlMOND CREAM VJNCENT ON CAMElBACK, PlIOf:;IX, AI. COO/Vincenl GuerirJxlIIft
Yield: 8 SelVings
/--
Puff pastry Almond Cream (recipe follows) Fresh peacbes, peeled, pitted and sliced Unsalted butler, melted GJ
6 oz. lib. 8 oz.
180 g 750 g
6-8 3 oz.
6-8
2 Thsp. as needed
30 ml as needed
90g
I.
1. Roll out the puff pastry into a thin strip, approximately 6 inches x 22incbo (the length of a sheet pan) (15 centimeters x 55 centimeters). uy IIr dough on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. 2. Using a large plain tip, pipe four rows of almond cream down the of the puff paStry. Leave a 3/4-inch (I S-millimeter) margin along both k:q edges of the dough. j. Arrange the peach slices over the almond cream, overlapping sligh~'. 4. Brush the peaches with melted butter and evenly sprinkle the granubted sugar over them. 5. Bake at 400"F (200°C) until the dough is done and the peaches are Hgillf browned, approximately 2~30 minutes. 6. SelVe warm, dusted with powdered sugar and accompanied by vanilla it cream. Approximate values per serving: Calories 140, TObt fat 9 g. Saturated fat 5 g. ChoJesterol l5 .. Sodium 0 mg. TObl carbohyd rates 15 g. Protein 1 g. Vlbmin A 10%
PIES, P$TRIFS AND CYJOKlf;S .:-"'a.
ALMOND CREAM (FRANGIPANE) Yic:Jd: 3 lb. (1.3 kg) Lnsalted butter, softened Granulated sugar
80z. lib.
Egg> All-purpose flour
8 oz.
5 oz. 12 oz.
Almonds, ground
225g 4SO g 225 g ISO g 360g
I. Cream the butler and sugar. Slowly add the eggs, scrJping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. 2 Stir [he flour and ground almonds together, then add \0 the butter mixture. Blend until no lumps remain.
Almond cream may be stored under refrigeration for up to three weeks.
j.
.WUJ;lffiJIC \'3IUC$ per !-oz. Cl9-s) serving: Calories 140. Total fat 8 g, Sat\lfalet! f3t 3 g. Chol~ mi lO mg, Sodiu m 5 mg, TOial carboh)'drates 13 g. Protein 2 g
~ ============= RECIPE 32.27
STRAWBERRY NAPOLEON Yield: 10 Servings
Puffpaslry, 4 in. x 15 in. (10 em x 37 em) strips, docked and baked Pastry Cream (Recipe 34. 2)
Fresh strawberries, sliced Creme Chantilly (Recipe 34.6) Sugar Glaze (Recipe 33. 12)
Dark chocolate, melted
3 1 pI. I qI. I pI. as needed I oz.
3 500 ml lit
500 ml as needed 30 g
1. Allow the puff pastry to cool completely before assembling. 1 Place a strip of puff pastry on :1 cake cardboard for suppon. Pipe on a layer
of paStry cream, le:lving:l clean margin of almost 1/2 inch (12 millimeters) on all four sides. j. Top the cream with a layer of berries. t Spread on a thin layer of Creme Chantilly and top wim a second layer of puff pastry. Repeat the procedure for the second layer of puff pastry and chill. j. Prepare the sugar glaze and place the melted chocolate in a piping cone. When ready to glaze, place the third strip of puff pastry on an icing I"3ck, nat side up. Pour the sugar glaze down the length of the pastry and ~prcad evenly with a metal cake spatula . Allow the excess to drip over the sidcs. 6: Immediately pipe thin lines of chocolate across the glaze. Use a toothpick to pull a spiderweb p"l11ern in the glaze. Chill 10 sel the glaze, then place the top in position on the napoleon . .\W!Ollrn.11C I"Jlucs per 5-<>7.. (J S7-g) serving: Calories 320, Totat fat 2Q g, Saturated fat 9 g, ChobItrol liS mg, Sodium 65 mg. Tow carboh )'drales Z9 g, Prold o 4 g. Vitamln A IS%, Vitamin
C,
985
986
CIMmW32
RECIPE 32.28
PALAlIERS as needed as needed
Puff pastry Gr.mulated sugar
1. Roll out the puff pastry into ,I very thin rcct:lOg1e. TIle lenglh is oct portam but the width should be al least 7 inches (17.5 centimetersl. 2. Using a rolling pin, gemly press the gr"Jnuialcd sugar into the I . Folding Ihe dough toward the
center from both edges.
doufJI
both sides. 3. Make a I-inch (2.5-ccntimeter) fold along the long edges of the dough ward the cemer. Sprinkle on additional sug:lr. 4. Make another I -inch (Z.5-cent imetcr) fold along the long edges ddt
dough loward the cemer. The twO folds shou ld almost meet in (he ~ Sprinkle on additional sugar. 5. Fold one side on top of the mher. Press down gently with a rolling pin your fingers so that the dough adheres. Chill for I hour. 6. Cut the log of dough in thin slices. Phlcc the cookies on a paper. sheet pan and bake at 400°F (200°C) until the edges are brown. 3P11' malely 8-12 minutes. 2. Slicing the log of dough into individual cooikies.
Approximate ,,,,lues per 1-
RECIPE 32.29 ,
CHOCOlATE EClAIRS Yield: 20 Eclairs
I . Using a piping b:lg \0 fill the ecl:lirs with pastry cream.
2. Dipping the eclairs in chocolate
glne.
Baked Eclair shells, 4 inches (10 em) long. made from Eclair Paste (Recipe 32.9) Vanilla Pastl)' Cream (Recipe 34.2) Chocolate glaze: Unsweetened chocohlte Scmi-sweet chocolate Unsalted butter White corn syrup White chocolate, melled (optional)
20
20
I ql.
I Ii
4 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz. 4 tsp.
120 g 120g
as needed
120 g 20 ml as needed
1. Use a paring knife or skewer to cut a small hole into the end of tJt,.. baked. cooled, eclair shell. 2. Pipe the pastl)' cream into each shell using a piping bag filled with 3 SIltIio plain tip. Be sure that the cre:lln fills the full length of each shelL Refrigt1· ate the filled eclairs. 3. Prepare the glaze by melting all the ingredients together over a ooin!llJrj( Remove from the he:11 lind allow 10 cool until slightly thickened, ~~ occasionally. 4. In a single, smooth stroke. drag the tOp of each filled eclair through It.: glaze. Only the vel)' tOP of each pastry should be coaled with chocol:w.
PIES, PASTRIES AND COOKIes ~ j.
Melted white chocolate may be piped OntO the wet glaze, then pulled into patterns using a tOQ{hpick . Keep the finished eclairs refrigerated and serve within 8-12 hours.
";dues per }-o.l.. (9}-g) s('fVlng: Calories 4 10. Tow fat 51 g, SaruraU:d fat 17 g, bwroJ. 110 mg. Sod ium 230 mg, Total carbohydrates 27 g. Prolein 5 g, Vitamin A 20'16
_~I<'
(he).
RECIPE 32.30
BAKED M ERINGUE Yield: 6 lb. 8 oz. (3 kg)
Egg whites Granulated sugar Coffee ext r:.ICt (optional)
2 1b. 3 oz.
4 lb. 6 oz. 2 112 oz.
I kg 2 kg 75 g
1. Whip the egg whites 10 soft peaks. With the mi.xer mnning at mediulll speed, slowly add the sugar and continue whipping until very stiff and
glossy. 1. Whip in the coffee exlract if desired. j. Spread or pipe the meringue into the desired shapes on parchment-lined sheet pans. , Bake at 200"F OWC) for 5 hours or overnight in a non convection oven. The baked meringues should be finn and crisp but nOl browned. j. Cse in assembling dessen or pastry items. ~tc
values per 5eJ'\'ing: Calo ries BO. To tal fal 0 g, Saturaled 1<11 0 g, Choteslerol 0 mg,
5IIIIImt 15 mg. Total carbohydrales 20 g. Protein I 8
============ ~ ============= RECIPE 32.3 1
CHOCOLATE
DEUCE
Yield: I 8-in. (20-cm) Cake Ganlehe (recipe follows) Qassie Daeqlloise (recipe follows) Creme Ch:lOlilly (recipe follows) Candied Almonds (recipe follows) 1. Spread an even layer of ganache over two of the dacqlloise disks. 1. Top one disk with approximately 3/4 cup (170 milliliters) of Creme Chantilly. Place the second disk on top, chocolate side up. Top with another 3/4
cup 07O-milliliters) of Creme Chantilly. Position the third
di~k
on top, flat
side up. J, Spread the remaining creme Chantilly over the tOp and sides.
, Sprinkle candied almonds over the top and sides of the cake. J. Freeze 10 fiml the cream, approximately 1 hour. Remove from freezer and refrigerntc for service. \pjIro1umt~ '-:ltlll'S pt.., I/lk:lke serving: Calo ries 490. TOlal fat 32.5 g. Saturaled fat 13 Il'Ol SO mg. SOdiulli 55 mg. To ut carbohydrates 39 g. Protein 10 g. Viumin A 16%
g. Choles-
CO ll/i I/l /ed
987
988
~
CIL4PlF.R 32
Blanched almonds Granulated sugar Egg whites
J.
Piping out the meringue disks.
CLASSIC DACQUOISE 2 oz. 6 oz. 3 oz.
60g lBO g
90g
1. Preheat oven to 22;oF (IIO"C). line a b.tking sheet with parchment Om three S-inch (2O-<:entimetcr) circles on the parchment. 2. Grind the nuts in a food processor. They should be the consistency d cornmeal and as dry as possible. Combine with 2 ounces (60 grams) citlr sugar and set aside. 3. Whip the egg while::. Uti meuium speed until foamy. Increase the 5pt'l'Il and gradually add I ounce (30 grams) of the sugar. 4. Continue whipping until the egg whiles form soft peaks. Gradually add tht remaining sugar. 5. Continue whipping until smooth and glossy, about 2 minutes. 6: Sprinkle the almond-sugar mixture over the meringue ;md fold logether II!: hand. 7. Using a pastry bag with a plain tip, pipe Ihe meringue onlo the pardunert paper 10 form three 8·inch (20-centimeter) disks. 8. Bake until finn and crisp but not brown, approximately 6(}...iS minula Cool completely. Approximate values per serving: Calories 100. Tow (:u 2.5 g. Salur.lIed fal 0 g, Cboleo;lmlI Q" Sodium 15 mg. Total carbo hydr.lle5 16 g. ProIeln 2 g. Cbims-low fou; 101>.' SlUUr.lted fa rodDlesterol; \.ety low sodium
GANACHE Semi-sweet chocolate Heavy cream
4 oz. 3 oz.
l20 g
90 ml
1. Chop t.he chocolate into small pieces and place in a bowl. 2.
2. Layering the Ganache-covered
Dacquoise.
Heat the cream just 10 boiling. Pour the cream over the chocolate and sIir until the mixture is glossy and sm001h. Allow to cool slightly before using.
Approximate values per servi ng: Calories 130. Total far 10 g. Sa tUl"lIted fat 6 g, Cholesterol IS ~ Sodium 0 mg. Toul carbo h}"drat~ \0 g. Proleln I g. Vitamin /I. 6%
CREME CHANTILLY Heavy cream Granulated sugar Vanilla extract 1. Whip all the ingredienlS together unlil
1 qL
I II
3 oz. I tsp.
90~
5m1
son peaks fonn.
Approximate values per $Crving: Calorlc!l 100. TOtal fat 10 g, Saturated fa1 6 g. Cbo1esttrol 3) IISodium 10 mg, Total carboh)'dl"lltClil 3 g. Protem I g. Vitamin /I. 10%
3. Frosting the Delice. CANDIED AlMONDS Egg whites Granulated sugar Sliced almonds
2 2 oz. 80z.
2
60g 250 g
PIES, PAS71UES AND COOKIES ~ 1. Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C). 1 Whisk the egg whites and sugar together. Add the almonds. Toss with a rubber spatula to coal the mils completely.
3. Spread the nulS in a thin i:l.)'er on a lightly greased baking sheet. Bake until lightly toasted and dry, approximately 1S-20 minUies. \\;'atch closely to prerent burning. 4. Slir the nutS with a metal sp:ltula every S-7 minutes during baking. j. Cool completely. Store in an air-tight container for up to 10 days. lppro:IlITI.lIC "Jlu~"S pcr serving: Calories 160. Total fal ]0 g. SaluQ led fal ] g. Cholcslero l 0 mg. Sodium ]0 mg. TOIai carbo hydr:alcs to g. Protei n 6 g, Claims-low S;lIUr.lled fal; 00 cholc.slCroI; ltI).
Imr. sodium
~ =============
RECIPE 32.32
CHEWY DATE BARS Cheft SUS/III Feniger (llId Ma,)' Sue Millikell
or the fo mJer em' RFSJ'AURANT, Los A.~GI'.US. CA \"K'ld: 12 large Squares
Dates, pitted and chopped 'rater Gl'Jnulated sugllr lemon juice, fresh Rolled oats All-purpose nom Brown sugar Ibking s<x13 5.11t UIls.11ted bUller, melted
Method: Bar Cookies
lib. 8 oz. 8 oz. 4 oz. 1 1/2 pt. lOol. 9 oz. 3/4 tsp. 3/4 !Sp. 14 oz.
4;0 g 225 ml 225 g 120ml 700 ml 300 g 270 g 4 ml
4 ml 400 g
1. Combine the dllles and water in a saucepan. Cook at a low boil until the mixture is as thick as mashed potatoes, approximately 5 minutes. Stir in the granulated sugar and remove from the heat. Add the lemon juice and set aside to cool. 1. [0 a large bowl, mix together the oats, nour, brown sugar, baking soda and salt. Add the melted butter. Stir to moisten evenly. j. Spread half of the oat mixture in a well-buttered 9 inch x 12 inch (22 centimeter x 30 centimeter) pan to form an even layer. Cover evenly with all the date mi."I:tme. Spread the remaining oat mixture over the top. t Ibke at 35O"F (I8O"C) until the top is golden brown and pebbly, approxiflUtely 40 minutes. The edges should stall caramelizing. Set aside 10 cool, in Ihe pan on a rack, for about 1 hour. Run a sharp knife along the inside edges to loosen. Inven, trim the edges, and cut into squares. Serve with Caramel Ice Cream (Recipe 34.30). \p\Iroxim:IlC ,·;dU<.", pcr 7-oz. (207-g) scrving: Ca lorlC$ 640, TOlal fa l 28 g. Satur.lIed fal 17 g, Cho1nItrol 70 mg. Sodi uOJ 240 mg. TOI:II carbohydrates 9l g, Prolei n 5 g, Vilam in A 2S%, Ciaill1$~ SOOro.'
of fiber
989
990 .",
CIWf>W 32
RECIPE 32.33
MAnELEINES Yield: 15 L'nge Cookies Unsailed bulter
4 oz.
Egg'
2
Granulated sugar
3 oz.
Lemon zest, grated fine Lemon juice
lisp.
120 g 2
90g 51111
Vanilla extract Baking powder
1/4 tSp. 1/ 4Isp. 1/8 tsp.
Cake flour, sifted
3 oz .
1 ml 1 mi
.5 ml 90g
1. Melt the butter over medium heat; continue cooking until the milk scM
tllrn a golden-brown color. Sel aside to cool. 2. Whisk the eggs and sugar over a bain marie until warm (98°F/38"c)' kmove from the heat and whisk in Ihe lemo n zest, lemon juice and loniIb. J. Sift the baking powder and flo ur together; stir into the egg mixture. Stir. the melted and cooled butter. Cover the bowl and allow to rest for 1Jnr at room temperature.
4. Buner and flour the madeleine shells. Spoon the bauer into (he shells. If. iog each three-founhs full. 5. Bake al 4)O°F (23Q°C) umilthe cookies rise in the center and are '1'Il.!it* brown on the bouom and edges, approximately 3-4 minutes for 111-id (3.7-centimeter) madeleines :md 1 ~ 12 minutes for 3~inch Cij. centirnelul madeleines. They should spring back when touched tightly in the Ct'I1CJ: Remove the madeleines from the oven, inven the pan over a wire colq rack, and tap lightly to release the cookies from the pan. Approximate I"Jlues per cookie: Calories 110. To ut fat 7 g. Satu l'2tcd fat 4 II, Chok:s1m1l f'j 11& Sodium 10 mg, Total carbohydrates ]0 g, Protei n t g, Vlu mln A 6%
======= ~ RECIPE 32.34
SUGAR COOKIES Method: Cut-out Cookies
Yield: 3 Dozen
All-purpose flour Baking powder l\"lace, ground Unsalted bUl1er, softened Granulated sugar Vanilla extraCl Egg
12 oz. 2 !Sp.
J60g
114 ~ p . 4 oz.
1m!
8 oz. 1 !Sp.
250 g 5m! 1
1
IOml
120 g
1. Stir together the flour, baking powder and mace. Set aside. 2. Cream the bUl1er and sugar until light and fluffy. Blend in the \'anilla. AM the egg and beat again until fluffy. Gradu:llly add the flour mi.\1Ure, Ining just until well combined. 3. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, about 1-2 houri
PIES, PASTRIES AND COOKIES <"'2\. 991
t Work with about half of the dough at a time, keeping the remainder re-
friger.lIed. On a lightly noured bo:lrd, roll out the dough to :l thickness of approximately 1/8 inch (3 millimeters). Cut as desired with cookie cullers. Carefully transfer the cookies to lightly greased baking sheets. S Bake at 325 cF (J60 0 C) until golden brown, approximately 10-1 2 minutes. Let stand for 1 minute, then tl'llnsfer to wire nIcks to cool. II! \';Itues per cookie: Calories 90. Toul fat 3 g, Satur:ued fat 1.5 g, Cb:llesterol 15 mg. foIum 0 01,11:. Total carboh)'drates 14 g. Protein I g. Cb ims---4ow fat; low cholesterol; rIO sodium
RECIPE 32.3;
GINGERBREAD COOKIES Yield: 1 Dozen
l'ol cthod: CuI-a lit Cookies
Unsalted bUller, softened Brown sugar Molasses
4 oz. 4 oz.
120g 120g l80g
60z.
Egg
1
1
AU·purpose flour Baking soda S:tlt Ginger, ground Cinnamon, ground Nutmeg, ground doves, ground
12 oz. 1 rsp. 1/ 2 !Sp. 2 rsp. 1 rsp. 1/ 2 tsp. 1/2 tsp.
360 g ; Illl 2 mJ 10 ml 5 ml 2 Illl 2 1111
L Cream Ihe bUller and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the molasses and egg and beat to blend well; set aSide. 1. Stir together the flour, baking soda, salt, ginger, cinnamon , nutmeg and cloves. Gradually add the flour mixture to the buner mixture, beating umil just blended. Gather the dough into a ball and wrap in plastic wrap; rcfrigmte for at least 1 hour. i On a lightly floured board, roll OUI the gingerbread to a thickness of 1/4 inch (6 millimeters). Cut out the cookies with a floured cutter ;tnd transfer to greased baking sheets. , Bake at 32;cF (l 6O"C) until the cookies are lightly browned around the edges and feel barely firm when touched, approximately 10 minutes. Transfer [0 wire racks [ 0 cool. Decorate as desired with Royal Icing (Recipe
3313l ~ \':IIues [X.'f cookie; Calorir;s 260. Total fat 8 g, Saturated fat 5 g, Cho les terol 4Q mg, .... 120 mg, Total carbohrdrates 4t g, Protein 4 g, Vlumin A 8'M>
RECIPE 32.36
SPRlTZ COOKIES Ykld: 7 Dozen ~ns;tlted bUller, softened Granulated sugar
Method: Pressed Cookies
8 oz. 4 oz.
250 g 120 g CQ llfitlue(/
992
.~.
ClIAPTER 32
Sail Vanilla extract
1/4 ISp. I tsp.
Egg Cake flour, sifted
I ml 5ml
I
I
10 oz.
300g
1. Cream the butler and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the salt, "nillil
''''I
egg; beat well. 2. Gradually add the fl our, beating until just blended. The dough ,hould "~ I fi rm but neither sticky nor stiff. 3. Press or pipe the dough onto an ungreased sheet pan using a cookie or a piping bag fitted with a large star tip. 4. Bake at 350°F (177°C) until lightly browned around edges, approximatdl' [0 minutes. Transfer to wire racks to coot. Appro~imate values per cookie: Calo ries 40. Total fat 2.5 g. Saturated fat 1.5 g. Cholesttrol lO .. Sodium iO mg. Total carbohydratcs 4 II. Protei n 0 8. Claims-low fat : low cholesterol: '"tI!'a sodium: low calorie
-v- ====== RECIPE 32.37
SPICED OATlJtEAL COOKIES Yield: 3 Dozen All-purpose shortening Brown sugar Granulated sugar
Egg' Orange juice concentrate All-purpose fl our Baking soda Baking powder Salt Cinnamon, ground Allspice, ground Nutmeg, ground Regular oalS Dark raisins Golden raisins
Method: Drop Cookies 6 oz. 6 oz. 6 oz. 2 2 11:>5p. 7 oz. I ISp. [ ISp.
IISp. Itsp. 1/2 ISp. 1/2 lSp. I pI. 6 oz. 6 oz.
l80g l80g 180 g 2 30 IIlI 210 g 5 ml 5mt 5 ml 5ml 2 ml 2m! 500 ml l80g l80g
1. Cream the shortening and sugars until light and fluffy. Add the eggs:md orange juice concentrate. 2. Sift the dry ingredients together and add them to the creamed mixture 3. Blend in the oalS and raisins. 4. Portion the dough 0010 lightly greased sheet pans and bake al 325' (160°C) until almost firm, :lpproximalely 12 minmes. Appro~imale values per cookie: Calones 15(l, Total (31 5 g. Saluratt.-d fal 1.5 g. Cholestnoi lOIlJ Sodium 105 mg. Total carboh)'dratcs 24 g. Protein 2 g. Cla llt1li-low cholcslerol; low sodium
PIES, HtfT'RJES AND COOnES r'\!I..
============ ~ ============ RECIPE 32.38
lACY PECAN COOKIES Yield: 100 3-in. 05-cm) Cookies
Method: Wafer Cookies
3 1b.
Brown sugar Unsalted butter Dark corn symp All-purpose fl our Pecans, chopped
2 lb. 8 oz. 3 lb. 12 oz. 3 lb. 2 lb. 8 oz.
1 3 kg 1 I. kg 1. 7 kg I J kg 1.1 kg
/. Combine the sugar, butter and com syrup in a large, heavy slucepan. Bring to a full boil. 2 Mix the flour and nuts together. j. As soon as the sugar mixture comes to a boil, start timing it. Let it boil for a full 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the flour-nut mixture. Pour into a hotel pan 10 cool completely. t Use a small portion scoop to make equal-sized balls of dough. Flatten oUlthe balls of dough and place on a silicon bak ing mat or paper-lined sheet pans. 5. Bake at 325°F (I60°C) until very dark brown and no longer moist in centcr, approximately 15-18 minutes. Remove from oven and shape as desired . . ~tc
vatues per 5e7Viog: Calories 320, Total {:II 17 g. Salut":lled f:ll 6 g,
Cholesl~rol
25 mg,
SodIam 20 mg, Total carbohrdralCS 38 g, Prolein 2 g
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 32.39
T UUPE COOKIES 'f!tld:
lib. lib. lib. lib. 8 oz.
500 g SOC, g 500 g 750 ml
/. Melt the bUller and place in a mixer bowl fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the sugar and blend until almost sm()()(h. 1. Add the flou r and blend until smooth. With the mLxer running, add the egg whites very slowly. Beat until blended, but do not incorpoTllte air into the baner. j. Strain the dough through a china cap and set aside to cool completely. t Coot several sheet pans with melted butter. Spread the dough into 6-inch OS<entimeter) circles on the pans. Bake at
993
HAPTER
. "".
,
,PMii,
CbefJ""'_
formerly oj tbe Hyt4t Regency
...
SroltsdlJ te, AZ 1,- ,. I j
=== ~ == After studying this chaple r, you will
be able ~
r'0.. <"'0..
(0:
prepare a variety of C'Jkes prepare a variety of frostings assemble cakes using basic finishing and decorating techniques
akes are poPlllar ill most bakesiJops because a wide lYlMy offinished products can be created from ollly a Jew basic cake,jiIJing and frosting formlllas. Many oj these components call eamir
made in advance (Ind assembled into finished dessens as needed_ Cakes are also popular bewlIse of their versatility: They Call be senm as unadomed sheets in a high-volume wfeteria or as the elabormt cente/piece of a weddillg buffet. Cake making need not be difficult or intimidating, bllt it does.rp. quire an understanding of ingredients and mixing methods. This chapter begins by explaining how typical cake ingredients il1leract. Each oj the frtlditiol1al mix ing methods is thell e).plained and illustrated with a recipe. ill/ormation on pa nning ballel'S, baking temperatures, determilling donel1ess and cooling methods /oIfoulS. 7be second portion 0/ this chapter presellts mixing methods amtformulas for a variety offrostings and icillgs. '!be third section coW'S aUt assembly alld presents some simple alld commollly IISed cake dror rating techniques. A selection 0/ popular 'cake /ormulas cOllclluies the chapter. Chapter 32 covers Pies, Pas/lies alld Cookies; Chapter 34 corm Custards, Creams, Frozen Dessel1s and Dessert Sauces. SOllie of Ibt desserts presented in those chapte,'S lise cake or /ros/illg!ormlllasprtsen/ed here.
Most cakes are created from liquid bauers with high fat and sugar coments. The baker's job is 10 combine all the ingredients to cre,lte a structure mal v.iD support these rich ingredients, yel keep the cake as light and delicate 35 p0ssible. As with other baked goods, it is impossible to taste a cake until it is fu~· cooked and too late to alter the formula. 111erefore, it is extremely importalf to study any fonnula before beginning and to follow it with panicular care and attention to detaiL
Ingredients Good cakes begin with high-quality ingredients (see Chapler 29. Principles ci the Bakeshop). However, even the finest ingredients must be combined in !he proper balance. Too much flour and the cake may be dry; too much egg aOO the cake will be tough and harel. Changing one ingredient may necessitate a change in one or more of the other ingrediems. Each ingredient perfonns a specific funct ion and has a specific effect on !he final product. Cake ingredients can be classified by function as toughenm, tenderizers, moisteners, driers, leaveners and flavorings. Some ingredients ful. fill more than one of these functions. For example, eggs contain water, SO they are mOisteners, and they comain prOtein, SO they are tougheners. By under· standing the function of various ingredients, you should be able to understand
CAKESANDFROSfTNGS ~
,'hy cakes are made in particular ways and why a preparation sometimes fails. With additional experience, you should be able to recognize and correct flawed fOffilUlas and develop your own cake formulas. TougiJeners Rour, milk and eggs contain pl'Q{ein. Protein provides structure and toughens the cake. Too little protein and the cake may collapse; tOO much protein and the cake may be tough and coarse-textured. Tenderizers ~gar, !alS and egg yolks shonen gluten strands, making the cake tender and m. These ingredients also improve the cake's keeping qualities. Moisteners Iktuids such as water, milk, juice and eggs bring moisture to the mixture. ~1Ure is necessary for gluten formation and starch gelatinization, as well as kr improving a cake's keeping qualities.
Floor, starches and milk solids absorb moisntre, giving body and structure to the cake.
lIat""ers Cakes rise because gases in the batter expand when heated. Cakes are leavmed by the air trapped when fat and sugar are creamed together, by carbon dioXide released from baking powder and baking soda and by air trapped in beaten eggs. AI! cakes rely on natural leaveners-steam and air-to create the proper texture and rise. Because baking soda and baking powder are also used in some cake formulas, you should review the material on chemical leavmers in Chapter 30, Quick Breads.
lIat'Orillgs Aa~orings such as extracts, cocoa, chocolate, spices, salt, sugar and butter proIl:Ie cakes with the desired flavors. Acidic flavoring ingredients such as sour aeam, chocolate and fruit also provide the acid necessary to activate baking
....
Cake ingredients should be at room temperantre, approximately 70"F
(lIOC), before mixing begins. If one ingredient is too cold or too warm, it may
.urea the baner's ability to trap and hold the gases necessary for the cake to
me.
Miring Methods E-.m the finest ingredients will be wasted if the cake batter is not mixed correctly. When mixing any cake batter, your goals are to combine the ingredients uniformly, incorporate air cells and develop the proper texture. All mixing methods can be divided into two categories: high Jat- those that create a structure that relies primarily on creamed fat-and tgg!oam-those ibat create a structure that relies primarily on whipped eggs. Within these !rood c:uegories are sever'dl mixing methods or types of cakes. Creamed-fat akes include butter cakes (also known as creaming method cakes) and wp.ratlo cakes. whipped-egg cakes include genoise, spongecakes, angel
997
998 ,-.... TABLE
ClW'lER 33
33. 1 .-. CAKEs
Category
Mixing MCthodrrype of Cake
Key Fonnula Ch:l.I"'JClerislics
Texture
Cre;Ulled Fat
Butter (creaming method)
High-fat formub; chemical le:lVcner used Emulsified shortening; twO-part
Fine grain; :liT cells of uniforn] Sile; moist cnlmb; thi n and tender trusl
(High F:I()
High-ratio (two-stage) Whipped Egg
Genoise
(Egg Foam)
Very fine grain; moist crumh;
mixing method
rebtively high rise
\l'hoJe eggs arc whipped with sugar;
Dry and spongy
no chemical lcavcners
Sponge
Egg yolks are mixed with orner ingredicms, then whipped egg
MoislCr :lnd more tender than gt.'nCtIt
whiles are folded in
Angel food
No fat; large quantity of whipped egg
Chiffon
whiles; high perccnwgc of sugar Vegetable oil used; egg yolks mixed with other ingrcdicnl.!i, then whipped egg whiles folded in; baking powder
Tall, light and fluffy
Tall, light and nuffy; moister and richer than angel food
may be added
food cakes and c hiffo n cakes , See Table 33, I, Although cert3in general!XO' cedUTes are used to prepare each cake type, there are, of course, variaticm Follow specific formula instructions precisely.
Creamed Fat Creamed·fat cakes include most of the popular AmeriC:tn-style cakes: poooo. cakes, layer cakes, coffeecakes and even brownies. All are based on higMJ formulas containing chemical leaveners. A good high-fat cake has a fine grUL cells of unifoml size and a crumb that is moist rather than crumbly. ~ should be thin and tender. Creamed-fat cakes GIn be divided into two classes: butler cakes and highratio cakes.
Butter Cakes == ~ == POUNDCAXFS
Poundcakes are the original high·fat, creaming method cake. They are called poundcakes because early fonn ulas specified one pound each of bUlter, egg'l, flour and sugar, Poundcakes should have a close grain and compact texture but still be \'el)' tender, They should be neither heavy nor soggy. As bakers experimented with poondcake fonnulas, they reduced the amounl of egg; and fat, substituting milk instead. These changes Ialto the devel~ment of the mod· em butter cake.
Buner cakes, also known as creaming method cakes, begin with softt'l'l'd butter or shortening creamed to incorporate air cells. I3eC'Juse of their high b: content, these cakes usually need the assistance of a chemical le:l\'I~ner KI achieve the proper rise. Modem-day bUller cake5-lhe classic American layer cakes. IX'puLu fll birthdays and special occasions--are made with the creaming method. '!'he:!-< cakes are tender yet sturdy enough to handle rich bl!ttercreams or fiUing. High-fat cakes are too soft and delicate, however, to use for roll cakes Of to slice into extremely thin layers. When making butter ca kes, the fat should be creamed al low to moderale speeds to prevent raising its te mperature. An increased lemperature cooId cause a loss of air cells.
P ROCEDURE FOR PREPARING BurrER (CREAMING M ~'1I0D) 1. Preheat the oven and prepare the pans. 2. Sift the dry ingredients together and set aside,
ClIO'S
CAKESANDFROSJ1/1'GS
Crelm the butter or shortening until it is light and fluffy. Add the sugar and cre3m until the mb.:ture is fl uffy and smooth. t Add the eggs slowly, beating well after each addition. 50 Add the dry and liquid ingredients altern:l!cly. 6. Divide the b:mcr imo prepared pans and bakc immediately.
j.
====== --..p = = = = = = RECIPE 33. 1
ClASSIC POUNDCAKE Yield: 2 8 in. x 4 in. (20 em x 10 em) Loaves Cake flour Baking powder Salt Unsalted butter, softened Gr:mul:lted sug:lr Eggs Vanilla extract Lemon extract
lib. 2 lSI'.
112 tsp. lib. 12 oz.
9 IISp. IISp.
Method: Creaming 500g 10 ml 2 ml 500 g 340 g 9 5 ml 5 ml
I. Sift the cake flou r. baking powder and salt together; set aside. 1. Cre:lm the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, reJting well after each addition. Stir in the extracts. J. Fold in the dry ingredients by hane!. Divide the batter into greased loaf pans. t Bake at 325°F 060°C) until golden brown and springy to the touch, approximately 1 hour ancl 10 minutes. rw.mo~:
Frencb-style Jmitcake: Add 6 ounces OSO grams) finely diced raisins and candied fruit to the batter. Substitute vanilla extract for the Ietoon extract and add 3 tablespoons (45 milliliters) rum 10 the batter. After baking. brush the warm cake with additional rum . IW~,
.\p(mxlm:ilC W,iUl"S per 3--01,. (86-g ) SCI"\'ing= Calo rll'S 35(1, Toeal fat 21 g, Saruratcd fat 12 g, ChoIIRtrol 145 I\Ig, Sodium 90 mg, Toeal carbohyd ra tes 35 II, Pro tei n 5 g. \'ilamin A 20%
J. Creaming the bUller.
2. Folding in [he flour.
High-Ratio Cakes Commercial b:lkers often use :I special two-stage mixing method to prepare luge qu:tntilies of :I very liquid cake b:ltter. 1l1ese formulas require emulsified >hortenings and are known as two-stage GLkes because the liquids are added
J. Panning [he bauer.
~.
999
1000
,~
CHAPTER 33
in two stages or ponions. If e mulsified shortenings are not available, substitute all-purpose shortening or butler as they cannot absorb the amounts of sugar and liquid in the fomlUla. Because they contain a high ratio of sugar and liquid to flour, ,he~ aits
are often known as high-ratio cakes. 111CY have a very fine , moist crunil relatively high rise. High-ratio cakes are almost indistinguishable from IIXXia butter cakes and may be used interchangeably.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING HIGH-RATIO C\KF~ 1. Preheat rhe oven and prepare the pans. 2. Place all the dry ingredients and emulsified shortening into a mixer ~1 Blend on low speed for several minutes. j. Add approximately one half of the liquid and blend. 4. Scrape down the mixer bowl and add the re maining liquid ingrediems. Blend into a smooth baneT, scr::tping down the bowl as necessary. 5. Pour the batter into prepared pans using liquid measurements to ensure uniform division.
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 33.2 Yield:
HIGH-RATIO YEllOW 3-4 Sheet Pans
Cake flour Granulated sugar Emulsified shortening Salt Baking powder Powdered milk light corn symp Water, cold
Egg' Water, cold Lemon extract
CAKE
5 lb. 5 lb. 4 oz. 2 lb. 8 oz. 2 oz. 4 oz. 8 oz. 12 oz. 1 qt. 2 lb. 8 oz.
2 1/4 q" 1 oz.
Method: High-Ratio
2.2 kg 2.3 kg LI kg
60g 120 g 225 g
340 g 1[,
LI kg 2.25 It 30 ml
1. Combine the flour, sugar, shortening, salt, baking powder, powdered milk. corn symp and I quart (l liter) cold water in a large bowl of a mixer!l· ted with the paddle attachment. Beal for 5 minutes on low speed. 2. Combine the remaining ingredients in a separate bowl. Add these liquil ingredients to the creamed-fat mixture in three additions. Scrape do\\n dr sides of the bowl after each addition . 3. Beat for 2 minutes on low speed. 4. Divide the baiter into greased and floured pans. Pans should be fiUed cdr halfway. One gallon of batter is sufficient for an 18 inch x 24 inch x 2 ilxlI (45 centimeter x 60 centimeter x 5 centimete r) sheet pan. Bake al 3m (170°C) until a cake tester comes out clean and the cake springs bad when lightly touched, approximately 12-18 minutes. Approximate values per 3-oz. (9O.g) serving: Calories m. Total fat 16 g, SaNrala! fat 5 So (:bob. te rnt 60 mg, Sodium 320 mg, TOlal carbo hr dr.nes 57 g. Proleln 5 g. Calcium 10%
GIKFS AND FROfl1NGS
<"!a.
ibipped Egg Cakes based on whipped egg foams include European-style genoise as well as spongecakes, angel food cakes and chiffon cakes. Some formulas contain dlemical lea\'eners, but the air whipped into the eggs (whether whole or sep.r:ued) is the primary leavening agent. Egg-foam cakes contain little or no fat.
Gelloise Genoise is the classic European-style cake. It is based on whole eggs "hipped with sugar until very light and fluffy. Chemical leaveners are not used. A small amount of oil or melted butter is sometimes added for flavor and IOOisture. Genoise is oflCn baked in a thin sheet and layered with buttercream, pureed fruit, jam or chocolate filling to cre:lte mullilayered specialty dessens. Because genoise is rather dry, it is usually soaked with a flavored sugar synlp (see Chapter 29, Principles of the Bakeshop) or liquor for additional fl avor and moisture. PROCFDURE FOR PREPARING GENOlSt: 1. Preheat the oven and prepare the pans. 1 Sift the flour \"."ith any additional dry ingredients.
3. Combine the whole eggs and sugar in a large bowl and warm over a double l;H)iler to a temperature of I()()OF (38"C)' 4. \Vhip the egg-and-sugar mixture until very light and tripled in volume. S. Fold the sifted flour into the whipped eggs carefully but quickly. 6. Fold in oil or mehed butter if desired. 7. Divide into pans and bake immediately. 1. Whipped eggs.
===== ~ ====== RECIPE 33.3
ClASSIC GENOISE Method: Whipped Egg
Yield: 3 Full Sheet Pans
Cake flour Eggs
Granulated sugar Unsalted butter, melted (optional)
680 g 30
1 lb. 8 oz. 30 I lb. 8 oz.
680g
40z,
120 g
2. Folding in the flour,
I. Sift the flour and set aside.
1 Whisk the eggs and sugar together in a large mixer bowl. Place the bowl over a bain marie and W;lrlIl the eggs 10 about 100°F (38"C). Slir fre
3. Adding the melted butler.
1001
1002 ~ C1fArrER 33
6: Divide the balter immediately illlo parchment-lined pans. Bake at 35O"F (180°C) until light brown and springy to the touch, approximately 8 minut~, Chocolale gelloisL"""":"Sift 3 1/2 ounces 000 granlS) of der with the flour.
VARIATION:
cocoo pow-
Approx imate values per 2-07., (6(}..g) serving: Calories 140. Total fat 4 g. Saturated fat !,I(. terol 110 mg. Sodium 30 mg. Total car bohydrales 21 g. Prolei n 4 g. Vllamin A 6%
(bob
4. Panning the batter.
Spongecakes Spongecakes (Fr. hisel/its) are made with whole separated eggs. A ba11et is prepared with the egg yolks and other ingredients, then the egg whiles are whipped to finn peaks with a portion of the sugar ,lOd folded into the oolter, Spongecakes are primarily leavened with air, but baking powder may be jo. eluded in the formula. As with genoise, oil or melted butler may be addw ~ desired. Spongecakes are extremely versatile. They can be so,lked with sugar spup or a liquor and assembled with buttercream as a traditional layer cake. anhe)" can be sliced thinly and layered, like genoise, witll jam, custard, chocolate (X cream filling.
PROClmURE FOR PREPARING SPONGECAKES 1. Preheat the oven and prepare the pans.
2. Separate the eggs, Whip the egg whites with a portion of the sugar.
3. Sift the dry ingredients tOgether and combine with the liquid ingredientS, induding the egg yolks, as directed.
4. Carefully fold the whipped egg whites into the batter. 5. Pour the batter into the pans and bake immediately.
= = = = = = = c"2\{'F RECIPE 33.4
ClASSIC SPONGECAKE Method: Whipped Egg
Yield : 2 9-in. (22-cm) nounds Cake Dour, sifted Granulated sugar
6oz, Iloz,
300 g
Eggs
10 I 1/2 !Sp. I 112 tsp.
10 7ml 7ml
Vanilla extract Cream of tartar
1. The eggs whipped to ribbon stage.
180 g
1. Line the boltom of two springform pans with parchment. Do not grease tht sides of the pans. 2. Sift the floll r and 6 ounces 050 grams) of the sugar together and set aside, 3. Separate the eggs, placing the yolks and the whites in separate mixing bowls. Whip the yolks on high speed for 3-5 minutes, until thick, pale and at least doubled in volume. Whip in the vanilla extract. The yolks should be whipped ~to ribbon," that is, until they fall from the beater in thick ribbons that slowly disappear into the surface.
GlKESANDFROS17NGS
t Place the bowl of egg whites on the mi.xer and, using a dean whip attachment, beat until foamy. Add the cream of tanar and 2 tablespoons (30 grams) of sugar. Whip at medium speed until the whites are gloss}' and stiff but not dry . .t Rcmove the bowl from the mixer. Pour the egg yolks onto the whipped whitcs. Quickly fold the two mixtures together by hand. Sprinkle the rem.1ining suga r over the mi.xrure and fold in lightl}'. , Sprinkle one third of the sifted flour over the batter and fold in. Repem the procedure until all the flour is incorporated. Do nO{ overmix; fold just until iocorporated. 7. Pour the bauer into Ihe prepared pans, smoothing the surface a:. needeJ. Bake immediately at 375°F until the cake is golden brown and slxmgy, approximalely 30 minutes. A toothpick insened in the center will be completely clean. S. Allow the cakes to rest in their pans until completely cool, approximately 2 hours. ~ To remove the cakes from their p:lns, nm a thin metal spatula around the edge of each p:lIl. When the ca ke is completely cool. it can be frosted or \\"T3ppcd in plastic wrap and frozen for 2-3 months.
~
1003
owe)
2. Folding the flour into the batter.
~t\' \'llues per 2~ (60-g) S(."f\ing: Calories 130. TOlal fat 2.5 g. Saturated fat I g, ChobItroI to; mg. Sodium 30 mg. Tolal carbohydrates 23 g, Protein 4 g, Claims--Iow fat; \0\\. sat· IQ[(\j f'L 1"\'1)' low S()(ilum
3. Panning the batter. AI/gel Food Cakes Angel f<XXi cakes are tall, light cakes made without fat and leavened with a b.rge quantity of whipped egg whites. Angel food cakes are traditionally baked II ungreased lUbe pans, blll large loaf pans can also be lLsed. The pans are left ungreased so that the batter can cling to the sides as it rises. TIle cakes should ~ inverted as soon as they are removed from the oven and left in the pan to \001. This technique allows gravity 10 keep the cakes from collapsing or sinking as they cool. Although they contain no fat , angel food cakes are not low in calories as ~ contain a high percentage of sugar. TIle classic angel food cake is pure ,ftite. but flaVOrings, ground nulS or cocoa powder ma}' be added for variety . .\!though angel food cakes are rarely frosted , they may be topped with a fruitt1mlred or chocolate glaze. TIley are often served with fresh fruit , a fruit compcce or whipped cre:lIn.
I'iocrnURE FOR PREPARING ANGEL FOOD CAKES
J. Preheat the oven. 1 Sift the dry ingredienlS together.
1 'X1tip the egg whites with a ponion of the sugar until stiff and glossy. 4. Gently fold the dry ingredients into the egg whites. ,; S!XXln the bailer into an ungreased pan and bake immediately. , Allow the cake to cool invened in its pan.
1004
~
ClW'l'HR 33
,..,.,.., ====== RECIPE 33.5
CAKE
CHOCOlATE ANCEL FOOD
Method: Whipped E&!!
Yield: I IO-in. (2;-cm) Tube Cake Cocoa powder, alkalized \'Vater, warm Vanilla extract Granulated sugar Cake flour, sifted Salt Egg whites Cream of tanar
loz.
J()g
2 oz. 2 tsp. 12 oz.
60 ml
3 1/2 oz. I!, tsp. 16 2 tsp.
JO ml
3,0 g lOOg Ig
16 10 ml
1. Combine the cocoa po wder :md w:Her in a bowl. Add the vanilb and St.1
2.
3.
4.
5. 6.
aside. In another bowl, combine; ounces ( 150 grams) of the sugar with the 1100· and salt . Whip the egg whites until foamy , add the cream of tartar and beat to sdt peaks. GJ'"Jdually beat in the remaining sugar. Continue beating untU tIr egg whites are stiff but not dry. Whisk approximately 1 Clip (22; milliliters) of the whipped egg whites ifl/IJ the cocoa mixture. Fold this into the remaining egg whites. Sift the dry ingredients over the whites and fold in Quickly but gend)' Pour the bailer into an ungreased tube pan and smooth the lOp ,,'lit ~ spatula. Bake immediately at 350°F (180°C) until the cake springs bad when lightly touched and a Cllke tester comes out clean, approxim3!dI 40-50 minutes. The cake's surface will have deep cracks.
7. Remove the cake from the oven and immediately invert the pan OntO tI"t
neck of a bottle. Allow the ca ke to rest upside down until cornpletelrroo 8. To remove the cake from the pan, run a thin knife or spatula around the edge of the pan and the edge of the interior tu be. If a two-piece tube pan was used, the cake and tu be portion are lifted out of the pan. Use J knif~ o r spatula to loosen the boltom of the ca ke, then invert it onto a cake Glro. board o r serving plauer. Approximate I':ltues per serving: Calories 210, Total fat 0.5 g, Saturnted fat 0 g. Cbole5l(Jl)] 0.. Sodium ISO mg, Total carbohydrates 44 g, Protein 7 g, Cbims-Iow fll; no s.l!ur.noo III no!kt
1. Folding the egg white and Coco.1 mixture into the whipped egg whites.
"",,,;
2. Folding in the fl our.
3. Cooling the cake upside down in its pan .
4. nemoving the cake from the pan.
CYa-:S tlND FR(Jff'fNGS
Chiffoll Cakes Ahhough chiffon cakes are similar to angel food cakes in appearance and k'XtUre, the addition of egg yolks and vegetable oil makes them moister and richer. Chiffon cakes are lIsually IC'Jvened with whipped egg \\ hiles but may contain baking powder as well. Like angel food cakes, chiffon cakes are baked in an ungreased pan 10 allow Ihe baiter to cling 10 Ihe pan as it rises. Chiffon rues can be frosted wilh a light bultercream or whipped crC"Jm or lopped with a glaze. lemon and orange chiffon cakes are the most popular, but for. mubs containing chocolate, nuts or other flavorings are also common. PRocmURE FOR PREPARING CHIFFON CAKI::S
I. Preheat the oven. 2 Whip Ihe egg whiles with a portion of the sugar until :tlmost 5tiff. Set aside. j.
Sift the dry ingredients together. Add the liquid ingredients, including oil.
t Fold the whipped egg whites into the batter.
5. Spoon the bailer into an ungreased pan and bake immediately. , Allow the cake to cool invel1ed in its pan.
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 33.6
ORANGE CHIFFON )~eld:
CAKE
I IO-in. (25<01) Tube Cake
Cake flour, sifted
Granulated sugar Baking powder 50h \egetable oil Egg rolks ~~ter, cool Or:lnge juice Ornnge zest Vanilla extract Egg whites 1. Sift together the flour,
Method: \'«hipped Egg
8 oz. 12 oz. I Thsp. I tsp. 4 oz.
225 g 340g 15 ml Sml 120 ml
6
6
2 oz. 4 oz. I Tb.';p. I Thsp. 8 oz.
Goml 120 ml 15 ml 15 ml 250 g
6 ounces (J70 grams) of sugar, the baking powder
and salt. l. In a separate bowl mix the oil, yolks, water, juice, zest and vanilla. Add the
liquid mixture 10 Ihe dry ingredients. j [n a clean bowl, beat the egg whites until foamy. S[owly beat in the re. maining 6 ounces (170 grams) of sugar. Cominue beating umil the egg whites are stiff blll not dry. i Slir one third of Ihe egg whites imo the bailer to lighten it. Fold in the re. maining egg whiles. 1 Pour the bailer into :10 ungreased to-inch (25-cemimeter) lUbe pan. Bake at 325°F ([Go°C) until .. toothpick comes out clean, approximately 1 hour. , Immediately invert the pan over Ihe neck of a wine bottle. Atow the cake to hang upside down until completely cool, then remove from the pan. Ipproxinule \·,ducs per 1 / 11).cJk~ S\.'1Vir"ll!' Calo ries 370. TOlal fal t5 g. SafUraled fal 2.5 trvI t30 1lljI, SodlunJ 2SO mg, TOial carbo hrdr:1I1'S S4 g, PTolcirl 6 g, Vitamin C 10%
g,
Choles.
Conlilllled
~
1005
~ == CIfIFFON
CAxE-
A HOUYWOOD ClASSIC
Chiffon cake is one of the few mrts hislOry can be traced \\ith absolute certainty. According 10 Gerry Schremp in her book Kitchen Cullure: Fifly 1M1:\" of Food Fads, a new I)pe of cake was invented by Henry Baker, a Califomia insurance salesman, in 1927 nllbbedchiffon, il was as light as angel food and as rich as poundcake. For rears he kept the fornlUla a secre~ earning fame and fo rtune hI' selling his cakes to HoJ1)'\\'OOd restaurants. The cake's secret ingredient- vegetable oil-became public knowledge in 1947 when Baker sold the fOIT11ula 10 General MHls, which promotcd il 011 packages of cake nom: Chiffon cakes, in a \'llliet)' of flaw)lS, became extremely popular nationwide. \\1lOSe
}006
C1IAP11iR 33
-
==
CONVENIENCE PRQOucrs
Packaged cake mixes are a l/'l'f11e11dous time S31l!T for commercial food ser.'k:e ~r alions. Almost any operation can 5e1'\'e a 1'3.riety 0( cakes made by relatively unskiLed emplo)'ees using prepared mixes. l11e resLits are consistent and the texture and flavor are aa:eptable 10 most consumers. Indeed, a m!1I-prepared packaged mix cake is preferable to a poorly prepared cake made from scratch. Most packaged cake mixes can be adapted \0 include flaVOrings, nuts, spices or fmilS, which can improve the product's OVt!Tall qu'~ity. Frostings, filljng~ and attractive decor:ltions complete these items. The convenience of mixes is not without ro;~ oo",'€\1!r. Packaged c:1ke mixes are often more expensil'e than the ingredients neered for an equal number of cakes made from scratch. Cakes made from mixes are a.so softer and more cottony than scratch cakes, and their flavor tends to be more anif1cial.
Powdered sugar
ORANGE GLAZE 3 oz.
90g
Orange juice
2 Thsp.
30 ml
Orange zest
2 lsp.
10 ml
I . Sift the sugar, then stir in the juice and zesl.
2. Drizzle the glaze over the top of the cooled cake. VARIATION: Lemol1 chiffon cake-Substitute 2 ounces (60 milliliters) frtli lemon juice and 2 ounces (60 milliliters) water for the orange juice. SulNltt lemon zest for the orange zest. Top with Basic Sugar Glaze, Recipe 33.12
Panning, Baking and Cooting Prepan'llg Pans In order to prevent cakes from sticking, most baking pans are coaled \\;th it a nonstick baking parchment or bOth. Pans should be prepared before the hi teTis mi.xed so that they may be filled and the cakes baked as soon as thebiJ. ter is finished. If the batter stands while the pans are prepared, air cells withi! the baiter will deflate and volume may be lost. Solid shonening is better than butter for coming p:ms because it does III contain any water; butter and nmrga rine contain water and this may cause IIr cake 10 stick in places. Solid shortening is also less expensive, tasteless aOO odorless. Finally, solid shortening does nOt burn as easily as butler, and' holds a dusting of flour belter. Pan release sprdYs are useful but must be applied carefully and complelel!' Although relatively expensive, spr:tys S
RECIPE 33.7
PAN COAI'ING Yield: 1 1/2 qt. (t.5 It)
Vegetable oil All-purpose shortening Bread flour
l ib.
lib. lib.
500 g 500 g 500 g
1. Combine all the ingredients in a mixer filled with the paddle anachmel1 Blend on low speed for 5 minutes or until smooth . 2. Store in an ainighl container at room temperature for up to two months.. 3. Apply to baking pans in a thin. even layer lIsing :1 pasuy bmsh.
C4KFS AND FR0571A'GS
T.\BLE
33.2 .n-.
BROWNIES Used For
t:ngreased I:ngreased sides; JXlpcr on bottom GIl"J..'ied and papered GII.':lSed and coowd with flour
Angel food and chiffon C1kes
Genolse layers High-fat cakes, sponge sheets High-fat C"Jkes, chocolate cakes, anything
Greased, floured and lined with paper
Cakes containing melted chocolate, fruit
in a bund! or shaped pan chunks or fruit or vegeta ble purees
Pan coating is not appropriate for all C:lkes, however. TIlOSC containing chocolate, raisins or fruit shou ld still be baked in pans lined with parchment PJper in order to prevent stick ing.
Angel food and chiffon cakes ,Ire baked in ungreased, unlined pans because
Ihese fragile cakes need to cling 10 (he sides of the pan as they rise. Spongecakes and genoise are often baked in pans with a paper liner on the bottom wi ungreased sides. Although the ungreased sides give the baiter a surface 10 ding to. the paper liner makes removing the Cllke from the pan easier. FiUillg PailS Pms should be filled no more th:m one-half to two-thirds full. This allows the hwer to rise during b.aking without spilling o\'er the edges. Pans should be filled to uniform depths. High-fat and egg-foam cake halters CIll be bdled into each pan according to weight High-mtio cake b.auer is so Ip.tid that it ClIO be measured by volume and poured into each pan. Filling the pa!L'i uniformly prevents both uneven layers and over- or underfilled pans. If roo are baking three 8·inch byers to be stacked for one presentation and the lITIOUnt of baiter is different in e:lCh pan, the lxlking times will val)' and the fuul product will suffer. The cake baner should :llw:lYs be spre:td evenly in the pan. Use an offset spatula. Do nOt work the b:l ttcr tOO much, however, as this destroys air cells 1nd prevents the cake from rising properly.
33.3
r deep
Quantity of Baner"
6"
1 pI.
if'
3 ,.
10"
I In ql.
1'~re.
t' deep
Rttungubr
14" 8"
10" It' 14" 6 x 8" 9" x 13" 16" x 12" H
\'ihere do rou draw the line between cakes and bro'lmies? The decision must be a matler of texture and personal preference, for the preparation methods are neatly identical. Bn.:M11ies are gencr.uly chev.y and fudID~ S\\\.'eter and denser than e'o"t'l1 the richest of butter cakes. B~11ies are a relati~"ely inexpensil"f! and easy way for :I food service operntion to offer its customers:l fresh·baked dessert. Although not as sophisticated as:Ul elaborate gateau, a well·made brownie C:l1l alW:l)'S be served with pride (:llld a scoop of ice cream). Brownies are prepared using the same llrooo:lures as ~lose for high-fat cak(S. GoOO brownies are achiel"ed with a proper balance of ingredients: Ahigh percentage of butter 10 flour produces a dense, fudgy brOlmie; less buller produces a more cakelike brownie. Uke\lise. the higher the ratio of sugar, the gooier the finished bn.:M,lie. In some fOlTTm· las. the fal is creamed to irlO)rporate air. as with butler cakes. In others, the fat is first melted and combined \\;th other liquid ingredients. BfO\\nies are rarely made \\ith whipped egg II-TIites. hcM-"e\"er. as this makes their texture 100 light and cakelike. Each customer and cook has his or her 0\\11 idea of ~le quintessential bn.:M11ie. Some :Ire cloyingly s\I,eet, v,;th a creanlY texture and :In :tbundance of chocolate; others are hiuer and criSl). Baked brownies can be frozen for two to three months if well wrapped.
=====
.n-. CAKE PAN SIZES
Pan Shape and Size bJnd,
1007
== ~ ==
PAN PREPARATIONS
Pan i'n'p.1r:J.tion
TABLE
.~.
Iql.+31/2c. 2 1/2 ql. I qt. Ilnql.
2 1/2 qt. 3 ql. + I 1/2 c. 2 1/2 c. 2 qL
2qt.+3c.
'Qulmirb givt!ll are approxilll.1tc and are b:J.sed on filling the pans two-thirds fuJi of ixtner.
1008 .~
CHAPTER 33
Baking
remperatures Always preheat the oven before preparing your baiter. If the finished b3!ICf
must wail while the oven reaches the correct temperature, valuable leav~ wilt be lost and the cake will not rise properly. Most cakes are baked al tempemtures between 325°F and
nor
(J60°C-l90°C). The temperature must be high enough to crcate Steam \\ithin the baner and cause lhal steam and other g,(ses in the blllter to expand aOO rise quickly. If the temperature is too high, however, the cake may rise un-
evenly and the crust may burn before the interior is completely baked 11r temperature must also be low enough that the baiter can set complelely arxI evenly without drying out. If the temper'Jture is tOO low, however, the cili will not rise sufficiently and may dry out before baking completely.
If no temperature is given in a formula or you are altering the dimensiOO! of the baking pan from those specified, use common sense in setting the own temperarure. Tbe larger tbe surface area, the higher the temperature can ll!Ually be. Tall cakes, such as bundt or tube cakes, should be baked at a 1000temperature than thin layer or sheet C'dkes. Tube or loaf cakes lake longeno bake than thin sheet cakes; buner cakes, because they contain more liqud take longer to bake tban genoise or spongecake.
Altitude Adjustments As you learned in Chapter 9, Principles of Cooking, altitude affects !heremperatures at which foods cook. The decreased atmospheric pressure al ili tudes above 3000 feel affects the creation of sleam and Ihe expansion Ii M air in cake baiters. l11ese factors mUSt be considered when n1.1king cakes. &cause gases expand more easily at higher altirudes, your cake may rise so much that its structure cannot support it and the cake collapses. Therefore, the amount of leavening should be decreased at higher altirudo. Chemical leaveners should usually be reduced by one third at 3500 feet mi by two thirds 31 altitudes over 5(XX) feet. Eggs should be underwhippro!O avoid incorporating too much air, which would also create 100 much rise. III general, oven temperatures should also be increased by 25°F (4°C) at altilul:lo over 3500 feel 10 help sel Ihe cake's structure rapidly. Because the boi ling point decreases at higher altitudes, more mom will evaporate from your cake during baking. This may cause dryness mi an excessive proportion of sugar, which shows up as white spots on dr cake's surface. Correct this by reducing every 8 ounces (225 grams) of. by lI2 ounce 05 grams) al 3000 feet and by I 1/2 ounces (45 grams)
Detenninillg Donelless In addition to following the baking time suggested in a fOnTlula, sel"eaI simple tests can be used to determine doneness. Whichever test or lests 1ft used, avoid opening the oven door to check the cake's progress. Cold aircu drop in oven temperature can cause the cake to fall. Use a limer to flOIe tlt minimum suggested baking time. Then, and only then, should you use the ftj. lowing tesls to evaluate the cake's doneness:
CAKESAND FRamNGS ~
1009
• Appearance-The cake's surface should be a light to golden brown. Unless noted otherwise in the formula, the edges should just begin to pull away from the pan. TIle C'd ke should nOl. jiggle or move beneath itS surface. • Touch......Touch the cake lightly with your finger. It should spring back quickly without feeling soggy or leaving an indentation. • Cake tester-If appearance and touch indicate that the cake is done, test the interior by insening a toothpick, bamboo skewer or metal cake tester into the cake·s center. With most cakes, the tester should come out clean. If wet crumbs cling to the tester, the cake probably needs to bake a bit longer. If a formula provides panicular doneness guidelines, they should be fol· m-ed. For example, some flourless cakes are fully baked even though a C::lke ~er will not come Ollt clean.
CooIillg Generally, a cake is allowed to cool for 10--15 minutes in itS pan after taking i OUI of the oven. This helps prevent the cake from cracking or breaking after I is removed from itS pan.
too 33.4 "'"
TROUBLESHOOTL' G CHART FOR CAKEs
PrOOlem
Cause
SoIUlion
&Iter curdles during mixing
Ingredients too wann or too cold
Eggs muS! at room temperatufC and added slowly Use correct. Ingredients Add a portion of the flour, then continue adding the liquid Use a weaker flour Replace with fresh leavener Use correct mixing method, do not deflate eggs during folding Adjust oven temperature Adjust formula Adjust oven temperature Adjust formub Adjust formula
Cake lacks \'olume
Crust burst or cracked Cake shrinks after baking
Tenure is dense or heavy
Tttture is coarse wilh an open grain
PIn" Havor lir.-en shape
inCOl"fC(t fat used Fat inadequately creamed before liquid was added Flour tOO strong Old chemical leavencr Egg foam underwhipped Oven too hot Too much flour or tOO little liqu·id Oven too hot Weak internal structure Too much sugar or fat for the batter 10 suppan Cake nOl. fully cooked Cake cooled too rapidly Too little leavening Too much fat or liquid Oven too cool O\"ennixing eft'en too cool Poor ingredients Unclean pans Butter not incorporated evenly Baller spread unevenly Oven rack not level Uneven oven temperature
pc
Tesl cake for doneness before removing from oven Cool away from drafts Adjust formula Cream fat or whip eggs properly Adjust oven temperature Alter mixing method Adjust oven temperature Check flavor and aroma of all ingredients Do not grease pans with rancid fats Incorporate fats completely Spread roner evenly Adjust oven racks Adjust oven temperature
/ 0/0
C/IAP/'tW 33
33.5 n-.
TABLE
NUTRITIONAL VAWFS 0' SElECfED CAKES
Per 1/12 Portion of a 9-inch Cake, Unfrosted Angel food Butter cake Chiffon, lemon DedI's food Sponge (2·in. square) 1beCnril1l1e
Protein
Carbohydrates
TOtal Fat
Saturated Fat
Sodma
Kcal
(g)
(g)
(g)
(g)
(mg'
130 260 200 260
3 3
30 37
0 11
0
4
J6
5
,."
4
35
12
11
3
80
6 mq 3
J~
4~
11)
7: Ne/zer /!'IIC)'CInpet/ili 0/ Food Values 1992
All rnkes are preJXlft-d from a typiatl mix according to package directions. mq '" mcasur~blc ([u:.ntit), but d:lt~ is un:lVailablc
To remove the partially cooled cake from its pan, run :t thin knife or spz.. ula blade between the pan and the cake to loosen it. place a wire rack, em cardboard or sheet pan over the cake and invert. Then remove the pan. ~ cake can be left upside down to cool completely or inverted again to cool 'ql side up. Wire racks are preferred for cooling cJkes because they anow ail' III circulate, speeding the cooling process lind preventing steam from making~ cake soggy. Angel food lind chiffon cJkes should be turned upside down irnmedi4l~ after they lire removed from the oven. 111ey are left to cool comp!et~·11 their pans to pre\·ent the cake from collapsing or shrinking. The top ci Ill' pan should not touch the COllntertop so that air can circulate under tIx' iJ. verted pan. All cakes should be left to cool away from drafts or air currents that migII cause them to collapse. Cakes should not be refriger.lled to speed the cooJq: process, as rapid cooling can cause cracking. Prolonged refrigeration lko causes cakes to dry out.
FROSTlNGS .n-, Frosting, also known as icing, is a sweet decorative coaling used as a filling between the layers or as a coaling over the lOp and sides of a cake. It is Uil'd to add flavor and to improve lhe cake's appearance. Frosting can also eXlm.1 a cake's shelf life by forming a protecti\'C coaling.
TABLE
33.6 n-.
FROSTINGS
Frosting
Prep'II-.nion
TextureITaste
Buttercrcam
Mixture of sugar and fat (usually bUller): can contain egg rolks or egg whites Meringue m.,dc with hOI sug:tr syrup CookL"
Rich but light; smooth, fluffy
Foam Fudge
Fondant Glaze
Royal icing Ganache
Ughl, fluffy; very sweet Heavy, rich and candytike Thick. opaque; sweec
Thin: sweet Hard and brittle when dry; chllky Rich. smooth; imense chocobte tbltt
GlKESANDFROSn/l'GS
There are seven general types of frosting: buttercream, foam, fudge, fon dant, glaze, royal icing and ganache. See Table 33.6. Each rype can be proIiJced with a number of formu las and in a mnge of flavorings. Because frosting is imegr;!l to the fl
Buttel'cream .\ buuercream is a light, smooth, fluffy mixture of sugar and fat (butter, margarine or shonening). It m:1Y also contain egg yolks for richness or whipped egg whites for lightness. A good bunercream will be sweet, but not cloying; bunery. but not greasy. Bunercreams are popular and useful for most types of cakes and may be llamred or colored as desired. They may be stored, covered, in the refrigcrn!Or for several days but must be softened before use. Although there are many types of buttcrcream and many formula variations, ,'t discuss the three most popular styles: simple, Italian and French.
Simple Buttercream Smple bunercrealll, sometimes known as American-style buttercream, is onde by creaming butler and powdered sugar together until the mixture is light and smooth. Cream, eggs (whole, yolks or whites) and fla vorings may be a:1Ied as desired. Simple bunercream requires no cooking and is quick and 05)' to prepare. If cost is a consideration, hydrogenated all-purpose shonening can be sublIuted for a ponion of the butter, but the flavor and mouth-feel will be dif~relU. Buttercre:lm made with shonening tends to feel greasier and heavier b:.t:luse shonening does not melt on Ihe tongue like butter. It will be more able Ihan pure butter buttercream, however, and is useful for producls that ,ill be on display.
PRocr.oURE FOR PREPARING SIMI'LE BUTIERCREAMS I. Oeam softened butter or shonening until the mixtllre is light and fluffy. 1. Beat in egg, if desired. 1 Beat in sifted powdered sugar, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. , Beal in the fkworing ingredients.
RECIPE 33.8
SIIIfPLE BUlTERCJlJJMI
r.w, 2 lb. (J kg) Ugh~y salted butter, softened Egg (optional) Pov.dered sugar, sifted Vanilla extract
lIb.
450 g
1 21b.
900g
2 tsp.
10 ml
1
Comillll ed
1011
1012 "'" ClWI," 33 1. Using a mixer fined with the paddle att:lchment, cream the butter and fluffy . 2. Deat in the egg if desired. Gradually add the sugar, frequently down the sides of the bowl. 3. Add the vanilla and continue beating until the frosting is smQOl:h and ~ VAlUATIONS: Light chocolate-Dissolve 1 ounce (30 grams) sifted cocoa !X"" der in 2 ounces (60 grams) cool water. Add to the butlercream along \\ithtlr vanilla. Lemon-Decrease the vanilla extract to 1 teaspoon (5 milliliters). Add I let spoon (5 milliliters) lemon extract and the finely grated zest of one lemon.
Approximale values per l-cz. GO-g) .serving: Calorl~ ]70. Total fat 6 g, Saturated fat 4 g, CbaIIt le roi 25 mg. Sodium 70 mg. Tomi carboh )·drat~ 28 g. Protein 0 g. Vlmmln A ](1%
Italian Buttercream
00.
Italian buuercream, also known as m e ringue buttercream, is based Italian meringue, that is, whipped egg whites cooked with hot sugar sy~. (See Chapter 32, Pies, Pastries and Cookies.) Softened butter is then whiptXd into the cooled meringue, and the mixture is (lavored as desired. This ~-pe rl buttercream is extremely soft and light. It can be used on most types of Wcs and is paElicularly popular for multilayered genoise and spongecakes.
PROCEDURE FOR P RErARI NC ITALIAN BIJITERCRFAMS
1. Whip the egg whites until soft peaks form. 2. Deal granulated sugar into the egg whites and whip until linn and glClSS)•. 3. Meanwhile, combine additional sugar with water and cook to sofl ban stage (238°F/ 115°C). 4. With the mixer on medium speed, pour the sugar symp into the whipped egg whites. Pour slowly and carefully to avoid splatters. 5. Continue whipping the egg-white-aml-sugllr mixture until completelyroci 6: Whip softened, but not melted, buuer into the cooled egg-white-and-sugar mixture. 7. Add (lavoring ingredients as desired.
~ ======
RECIPE 33.9
I TALIAN B U1TERCREMI Yield: 5 lb. (2.2 kg)
Egg whites Granulated sugar Lightly salted butter, softened but not melted
14 oz. 1 lb. 11
400 g
oz.
2 lb. 12 oz.
750 g 1250 g
1. AI! ingredients should be at room temperature before beginning. 2. Place the egg whites in a mixer bowl. Have 9 ounces (250 grams) of sugar nearby.
CAKESANDfW0517NGS ~ j. Place I pound 2 ounces (500 grams) of sugar in a heavy saucepan with
enough water to moisten. Bring t As the sugar symp's
(0
a boil over high heat.
temperature
approaches
a
soft
ball
stage
(238"F/ 115°C), begin whipping the egg whites. Watch the sugar closely so that the temperature does no! exceed 238°F (115°C). j. When soft peaks form in the egg whites, gradually add the 9 ounces (250
grams) of sugar to them. Reduce mixer speed to medium and continue whipping the egg whites to stiff peaks .
, When the sugar syru p reaches soft ball stage, immediately pour il into the whites while the mixer is running. Pour the syrup in a steady stream be~
tween the side of the bowl and the bemer. If the syrup hilS the be,lIcr, it will splatter and cause lumps. Continue ]:>e:lling at medium speed until the
egg whites are completely cool. At this point, the product is known as IL'lIian meringue. 7. Gradually add the soft ened butter to the Italian meringue. When :1 11 the butter is incorporated, add flavoring ingredienlS as desired. VmmON: C/)ocolale: Add 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) vanilla extrdct and 10
oonces (300 grams) melted and cooled bittersweet chocolate. \WrOIum{(' nlues pt'r i-ot . (36.g) serving: Calories 175, Tow fat 13 g, Saturated fat 8 So Chotes· tml 34 mg, Sodium 140 mg, TOlal carbohydrates 16 g, Protein 1 g, Vitamin A 10%
/. Adding the sugar syrup to the whipped egg whites.
2. Adding the softened bUller to the cooled Itllian meringue.
French Bullercream f1t>nch bunercream, also known as mousseline buttercream, is similar to It:IIi3n bunercre:lnl except that the hot sugar syrup is whipped into beaten egg fdks (nOl egg whites). Soft ened butter and flavorings are added when the 1'l't.'eIened egg yolks are fluffy and cool, An Italian meringue such as the one cre:uoo in the preceding formula is sometimes folded in for additional body md lightness. French buttercream is perhaps the most difficult type of butterntm1to master, but it has the richest flavor and sm()()(hest texture. Like a meringue bunercream, mousseline bUlIercream may be used on almost any ~pe of cake,
hocFnURE FOR PREPARING FRENCH BIJITERCREAMS J. Prepare a sugar syrup and cook to soft ball stage (238"F/ l ISOC).
l Ikat egg yolks to a thin ribbon.
3. Finished [talian buttercream.
10 13
1014
~
CIIAPTER 33
3. Slowly beat the sugar symp into the egg yolks. 4. Continue beating until the yolks are pale, stiff and completely cool. 5. Gradually add softened butter to the cooled yolks. 6. Fold in lIalian meringue. 7. Stir in flavoring ingredients.
======= ~ ====== RECIPE 33. 10
FRENCH BU1TERCREMI Yield: 2 ql. (2 It) Granulated sugar Water Egg yolks Lightly salted butter, softened but not melted lIalian Meringue (Recipe 32.10)
I lb. 10 oz.
8 oz.
800g 250 ml
16
16
31b. 1 qt.
III
1500 g
(0 a boil. eoo. tinue boiling until the syrup reaches 238°P (I 15°C). 2. Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks in a mixer fined with a wire whisk on lot' speed. When the sugar synlp reaches 238°P (l 15°C), pour it slowly intotlr egg yolks, gradually increasing the speed at' which they are whipped. (.00. tinue beating at medium-high speed until the mixture is very pale, stilT aOO cool. 3. Gradually add the softened butter to the egg mixture, frequently scraM: down the sides of the bowl. 4. Fold in the lIalian meringue with a spatula. Stir in flavoring extracts as ~ sired.
1. Combine the sugar and water in a small &1UCepan and bring
Approximate values per t.oz, (39-g) serving: CaJories 230, Total fal 20 g, Saluratro fal 12 g. a. lesterol IDS mg, Sodium t90 mg, Total carbohydrates 12 g, PTolcin t g, VlIamln A Mt
Foam Frosting Foam frosting, sometimes known as boiled icing, is simply a meringue m with hot sugar syrup, Foam frosting is light and fluffy but very sweet. It may be flavored with exlract, liqueur or melted chocolate. Foam frosting is rather unstable. 11 should be used immediately and ser."OO the day it is prepared. Refrigeration often makes the foam weep beads cl sugar. Freezing causes it to separ.lte or melt. An easy foam frosting can be made by following the fonnula for Italian Meringue (Recipe 32.10). As soon as the meringue has cooled 10 room temperature, it can be flavored with extracts as desired.
FudgeFrosting A fudge frosting is a warmed mixture of sugar, buner and water or milk.!! ~ heavy, rich and candylike. It is also stable and holds up well. A fudge f~ should be applied warm and allowed to dry on the cake or pastry. When dl}', it will have a thin cmst and a moist interior. A fudge frosting can be 1'3nilJi. or chocolate-based and is used on cupcakes, layer cakes and sheel cakes.
CAKFSANDFRQIT1NGS
-:""2'l.
1015
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING FUDGE FROSTINGS
I, Blend sifted powdered sugar with corn S)'rup, beating until the sugar is dissol\'ed and the mi.xture is smooth. 1. Blend in waml melted shortening an
RECIPE 33. 11
B ASIC FUDGE FROSTING Yield: 3 lb. (1500 g)
3 1b.
Powdered sugar, sifted Salt l.ight corn syru p Shortening, melted Water, hot ( 1400F/60°C) Vanilla extmct
1500 g I rnl
114 tsp. 2 oz. 4 oz. 10 oz. 21bsp.
60g 120 g 300 ml
30 ml
1. Blend the sugar, S
Cocoa jlldge jrostillg: Sift 4 ounces (120 grams) cocoa powder
Cocoa fudge frosting.
with the powdered sugar. Add 2 ounces (60 grams) melted unsalted buuer with the shortening. ] -OZ. (D·g) serving: Calories ]40. Tot:ll [:II z.; g, $atur:ued fat 0. 5 g, Choa tI'm] 0 mg. Sodi um IS mg. To la l ca rbohydrates 30 g, Prolein 0 g, CI:Iims-low fal: low sall,lral'd b.t; no chok'Slerol: \'l'ry low sodium
.\pproll!llalC \"dlues per
Fondant Fondant is a thick, opaquc sugar paste commonly used for glazing napoleons, petit fours :lI1d other pastries as welt as some cakes. It is a cooked mLxture of sugar and water. with glucose or corn symp added to encour:J.ge the correct ~-pe of sug:lr crysl:tlliZ:l\ion. Pou red over the surface being cDated, fondant quickly dries to a shiny, nonsticky coating. It is naturally pure wbte and can be tinted with food coloring. Fondant can also be flavored with melted chocolate. Fondant is I1lther difficu lt (0 make, so it is aImOSI always purchased prepared. To use, thin it with wale r or simple sym p and carefully wamt to l OO"F Commercially pre pared fondam wilt keep for several nJ:)mhs at room temperature in an airtighl containe r. The surface of the fondant should be cooted with simple symp, however, to prevent a cmSl from forming .
ewe).
.
•
Glaze ,~ glaze is a thin coating meant to be poured or dripped OntO a cake or pas11)'. A glaze is usually too thin to lIpply with a knife or spatula. It is used to add moisture and flavor to ca kes on which a heavy frosting would be unde~irable-for example, :I chiffon or angel food cake.
G IUCOse--tl lbicJi, sweet S)Tllp made from rom slardJ. romposed prill/mily of de:trrose.ligbJ rom S)TlI{! Ctlll IfSl/(l11y be S/lwti/u/fttfor it hI baRed gootls or Clmdy making.
1016 " " CIW'l>~ 33
Flat icing is a specific type of glaze used on danish pastries and cdfeecakes. It is pure white and dries 10 a fi rm gloss.
1. Blend sifted powdered sugar with a small allloun! of liquid and fla\'Orin~ 2. Use immediately.
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 33. 12
BASIC SUGAR GLAZE Yield: 12 oz, (340 g) Powdered sugar, sifted Ught cream o r milk
Unsahed buner, mehed Vanilla extl
9 1/2oz, 2 oz. l oz. 2 (Sp.
270 g
60 ml 30 g 10 m]
1. Stir the ingredients together in a small oowJ ·untii smooth. 2. Adjust the consistency by adding more cream or milk to thin Ihe g1aze I
nccessal)'. j.
Adjust the flavor as necess.11'}'. (AnOlher extract, such as lemon or alnmi may be used if desired.)
4. Use immediately, before Ihe glaze begins to dry. Approximate values per loOz.. <30-g) serving: Calories !1O, Tow fat 2 g. SaIUJ'3led fat 1.5g. a. lesterol 5 mg, Sod ium 0 mg, Total carboh)"d ralC:S 23 g, Protein 0 g. CIaims-Iow fat: lo,drD tcrol; no sodium
Rayallcing Royal icing, also known as decorator's icing, is similar to flat icing excqx 1 is much stiffer and becomes hard and brittle when dry. It is an uncooked mil· lUre of powdered sugar and egg whites. It may be dyed with food cokrq: pastes. Royal icing is used for making decorations, particularly intricate flowers Il lace patterns. Prepare royal icing in small quantities, and always keep any IJIIo used portion covered with a damp towel to prevent hardening.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARI ~G ROYAL ICING
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Combine egg white and lemon juice, if used. Beat in sifted powdered sugar until the correct consistency is reached. Beat until very smooth and firm enough to hold a stiff peak. Color as desired with paste food colorings. Store covered with a damp cloth and plastic wrap.
~ANDFROfl1NGS
c"'\!\.
1017
,...."" ======
COA'VEN/fNCE PRODUCTS
II \\ide selection of prepared icings, glazes
and oc,Jpings are available. Often, chocolate md r:milla fudge icing bases are purchased, 11m nalUred oroolored as needed. Foam frostcan be purchased in IJOY.tIer fonn, to Ittich)'ou add water and then whip. Even pre~ "buttercreallls" are available, althougll mer contain little or no real butter.
iDg':
Prepared icings are often ex~ingly S\\ftt and overpO\vered by artificial flavors and chemical preserv-..tivcs. These products save time but often cost more than their oounterpar1S made from 5Crntch. They should be used only after balancing the disadV'".J1tages against the benefits for your particular operation.
========= ~ ============ RECIPE 33. 13
R OYAL [ CING '1eld: 6 oz. (I80 g) jl"owdere(f sugar Egg while, room temperature
6' oz. I
180 g I
Lemon juice
1/4 ~p .
Iml
I. Sifl the sugar and set llside. 1. Place Ihe egg white and lemon juice in a st.. inless steel bowl. j. Add 4 ounces (120 grams) of sugar and beat with an electric mixer or melal spoon until blended. The mixture should fall from a spoon in heavy globs. If il pours, it is too thin and will need the remaining 2 ounces (60 grams)
of sugar. t Once the consistency is correct, continue beating for 3-4 minutes. The
icing should be white, smooth and thick enough to hold .. stiff peak. Food coloring paste can be added at this time if desired. S CoI'er the icing with a damp tOwel and plastic wrap to prevent il from hardening.
I
'f1pcxnIute \';llues per J-(lL (34-10 serving: Calories 120. Total fat 0 g, Saturalcd fat 0 g, Coole$II'1II 0 mg. Sodium 10 mg, TOla l carboh)'d rales 28 g, Protein I g, Cla ims-.f"3t frre; no saturated II, 110 dlOlesK'rOI: very low sodium
I
Ganacbe
I
Glnache is a blend of chocolate and cre'lm. It can :lIso include b.ltter, liquor
the choice depends on personal preference and cost considerations. Depending on its conSistency, ganache may be used as a filling. frosting or daze-type coating on cakes or pastries. The ratio of chocolate 10 cream determines how thick the cooled ganache will be. Equal parts chocolate and cream generally 3re best for frostings and fi llings. Incre
I
1018
CIINYf'ER.13
and whipped 10 create a rich. smooth frosting. If it becomes 100 finn. gal\3di can be remelted over a b.1in marie.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING GA.~ACIIE 1. Melt finely chopped chocolate with cream in :1 double broiler. Or briog cream just to a boil; then pour il over fine l)' chopped chocol:ltc and alia!
Ihe cream's heal 10 gently melt the chocolate. 2. Whiche\'er method is used, cool the cream and chocolale mixtureort1an
ice bath.
Do not attempt to melt chocobte and then add cool cream. This will <"31,i.'( the chocolate to resolidify and lu mp.
RECIPE 33. 14
CHOCOlATE GANACHE 1. Pouring the hot cream o\'er the
chopped chocolate.
Yield: 2.2 lb. (I kg) Bittersweet chocolate l'leavy cream Almond or coffee liqueur
I lb. loz.
;oog
lIb. loz.
500 ml JO ml
I oz.
1. Chop the chocolate inlo small pieces and place in a large metal b<mL
2. Bring Ihe cream just to a boil. then immediately pour it over the dlOCdli. whisking to blend. Stir ~t:nt l )' until :111 tht: I.:hocobtt: lIa.') IIltlieu. 3. Stir in the liqueur. 4. Allow 10 cool, stirring fre
2. Cool, firm ganache.
TABLE
33.7 .-.
TROUBLESHOOTING CHART fOR FROSfINGS
Problem
Cause
Solution
Frosling breaks or curdles
Add shoncning or Sifteq confectioner's sugar
Frosting is gritty
Fal added tOO slowly or eggs too hoi. when fat was added Conft'Ctioner's sugar nO! sifted Ingredients nO! blended Sugar syrup lumps in frosling Granulated sugar nO! dissolved
Frosting is too stiff
NO! enough liquid
Frosting will nO! adhere 10 cake
Too cold Cake too hot Frosting \00 thin
Frosting is lumpy
Sifl dry ingrediems Use softenl..-d fa l
Add SUjpr syrups carefully Cook sugar syrups properly; cook fudge frostings as din.'CIed Adjust fomlUla; add small amount of \....atcr or milk to IhrI frosting Bring frosting to room temperature Cool cake completely Adjust frosting formula
CAKESANDFRO.IT1NGS ~
= = = = = = """'" = = = = = = CHOCOlATE TRUf FLFS
Ganache. :l sublime mixture of pure chocollie and cream, is the foundation of one of ~'ortd's IllOSl5qlhisticated candies: the chocnI:ue truffle. Tntffles take their name from the IIJlJgh, black. highly prized food they I'!5effible. btl! !here the similarity ends. Chocolate truffles ~ld have a rich, creluny g.-mache center ~iIb 3 'Iol'll-balarml. refined flamf. COO:ulate truffles are sllIprisingly simple II) make. Fine chocolate is melted wilh cream "pemaps bullfr. The mLxture is flavored 3S lblred \\ith liqueur, extracts, fruit or coffee iU'il aJ]OIIro 10 hanlen. Once finn, the g:Ulache IIClXlpfd into balls and rolled in cocoa pow~, confectioner's sugar or melted chocolate. The classic French truffle is a small, irregu1arI) shaped ball of bittersv.~ chocolate
dusted lI'ilh cocoa powder. Americans, hOO'e\'cr, seem to prefer larger candj~, coated \lith melted chocolate and decorated \lith nuts or additional chocolate. TIle (ollo\\'lng recipe can be prepared in either style.
Shaping chocolate truffies.
RECIPE 33. 15
DARK CHOCOIAIE TRUFFLES \icld: ISO medium-sized Tmffles
O.1rk chocolate
l'nsal\ed butter IlC'JI')' cream Brandy
2 lb. I lb.
1 kg ;00 g
1 pl.
500 ml 120 ml
4 oz.
I. Chop the chocolate and bUller into small pieces and place in a large
meul bowl. l. Bring the cream to a boil. Immediately pOUT the hot cream ol 'er the chocolate and buller. Stir until Ihe chocolate and buner are completely
melted.
fbe shallow, ungreased pan .iOO chill until firm. t Shape the ganache inlo fOllgh balls using a melon hall cutter. Immediately drop each ball into a pan of sifted cocoa powder or conFeaioner's sugar. rolling it around to CQal completely. ! Truffies C:ln be ~lo red in the refrigerator for 7- 10 days. Allow them 10 :;often ~ligh!ly al room temperature before serving.
j. Stir in the brand}'. Pour the ganache into:t
\N'llll\imJte lalu<.'s [)Cr IfllfIle: O lloriL"S 70, TOlal fat 6 g. Salu r.ued fat 35 g.. Ch o leste ro l
!Gdlum 0 m~ Total l'll rbohydrntes I R. Protein 0 g
to mg.
1019
J020 <'01. CIWI'ER 33
== ~ == A/)IAA'CED PJTISSERIE
Sugar can be used to create a number of doughs, pastes ,U1d syrups used for artistic and decorative \\'Ork. Mastering even some of these products takes years of experience and
practice. Although fonnulas and preparation methods are be'iond the scope of this book, i1 is important that all pastry cooks be :1b1e to recognjze and identi~' certain decorative sugar products. 810wn sugar-a boiled mixture of sucrose, glucose ,md tartaric acid that is colored and shaped (in a manner vcry similar \0 glass blO\1.ing) using an air pump. [t is used for making pie<es of fruit and containers such as I:K:rwls and vases. Gum paste-a smooth dough made of sugar and gelatin; it dries rel:tt.i\'cly sl()\\.iy, becoming \'ery ~nn and hard The paste can be colored and rolltxl out, CUI and shaped, or molded. II is used for making flov.'ers, Jcal'ES and small figures. Man ipan-a mixture of almond paste and sugar thai may be colored and used like modeling day for SCUlpting small fruits,
ASSEMBIJNG AND DECORATING
CAKES
.n-,
Much of a cake's initial appeal lies in iC5 appearance. TIl is is true whether ti't finished cake is a simple sheet cake topped with swirls of buttercream (X m elaborate wedding cake with intricate garlands :lIld bouquets of royal ~ roses. Any cake assembled and decorated with care and attention to det3il ~ preferable to a carelessly assembled or garishly overdecorated one. Thousands of decor:ning styles or designs are possible, of course. This \(( tion describes a few simple optiOns that can be prepared by beginning pa.~ cooks using a minimum of specialized tools. In planning your cake's de:IigI! consider the flavor, texture and color of the components used as well as tr number of guests or portions that must be served. Consider who will be C\i ting and eating the cake and how long the dessen must stand before senict
Assembling Cakes Before a cake can be decorated, it must be assembled and coated wilh froq. ing. Most cakes can be assembled in a variety of shapes and sizes: sheet cako. round layer cakes and rectangular layer cakes are the most common. \\lIeni\' sembling any cake, the goal is to fill and stack the cake layers e\'en!y and ~ apply an even coating of frosting that is smooth and free of crumbs. Most of the photographs used in this seaion show the assembly and &.>co. ration of a wedding Cake. TIle finished cake is shown in the photograph tht introduces this chaptcr. The complete formula is found in Recipe 33.16.
PROCEDURE FOR AssEMBLING CAKES
flowers or other objects. MalZipan may also be rolled out and cut inlO various shapes or
used 10 C(l':er cakes or paslries. Nougat-a candy made of caramelized sugar and almonds that can be molded inlO shapes or containers. Unlike other sugar decoraUons, nougat remains deliciously edible. Paslillage-a paste made with sugar, cornstarch and gelaUn. It can be rolled into sheets, then CUI inlO shapes. It dries in a very firnl :Uld sturdy fonn, like plaster. Naturally pure white, it can be painted with cocoa or food oolorin~. PasUllage is used for s:h~' piece; and large decorati\'e items. Pulled sugar-a doughlike mixture of sucrose, glucose and tartaric acid that is colored, then shaped by hand. Pulled sugar is used for making birds, flowers, leaves, 00v.'S and other items. Spun sugar-made by flicking dark caramelized sugar rapid!), 0\"Cr a oo...'Cl to create long, fine, hairlike threads. Mounds or wreaths of these threads are used to decorate ice cream desserts, croquembouche and
gateaux.
I . Begin by leveling the cake and
trimming the edges as needed with a serrated knife.
2. Split the cake horizontally into
thin layers if desired. Use cakl' boards to suppon each layer as i is removed. Brush away any I
3. Position the bottom layer on 3 cake board. Place the layer on 3 revolving cake stand, if a\'3ilal:* Pipe a border of bunercream arOllnd the cake, then top the layer with a mOllnd of filling. L:>e a cake spatula to spread it e\'enl}'
CtKESANDFROS/1I1'GS ~
t Position the next cake larer over
the filling and continue larering and filling the cake as desired.
5. Place:1 mound of frosting in the center of the cake top. Push it to the edge of the cake with a cake spatula . Do not drag the frosting back and forth or lift the spatula off the frosting, as these actions tend to pick up crumbs.
6. Co\'er the sides with excess frost ing from the tOp, adding more as necessary. Hold the spalllla upright against the side of the cake and. pressing gently, turn the cake stand slowly. This smooths and evens the sides. When the sides and tOp are sm()(){h, the cake is ready to be decormed as desired.
Simple Decorating Techniques .\11 extremely simple )'et effective way to decorate a frosted cake is with :1 garIli.4I of chopped nuts, fruit , toasted coconut, shaved chocolate or other fcxxJs lIr.lnged in patterns or sprinkled over the cake. Be sure to use a garnish that complements the cake and frosting flavors or reflects one of the cake's ingredients. For ex,ll11ple, finelr chopped pecans would be an appropriate garnish for a carrot cake that contains pecans; shaved chocolate would no\. Side masking is the technique of coating only the sides of a cake with garnish TIle tOp may be left plain or decor
Sltmcils--cretlli"8 a desig" with conJectioller's sligar and sfrips oj parchmenl paper.
1021
Side maskillg-coolil1g fbe sides oja carrol cake with chopped pecallS
1022
ClIAPlF.R 33 A cake or baker's comb or serrdted knife can be LLsed 10 create paIiImI on a cake iced with buttercream, fudge or g:lnache. Hotd the comb againd:
frosted cake and rot:He the C'Jke slowly and evenly in the icing.
10
create hori7.0nt.al
"k'-
Piping Tecbniques
Cake comlJ-.crcatillg (I/Xillem 01/ a
frosted (:lIke.
More e laborate and difficult decorations can be produced with the aid piping bag and an assonmenl of pastry lips. With these tools, frosting or 101 icing can be used \0 crellte borders. flowers and mess.lges. Before aPP'! " any decoration, however, plan a design or pattern that is appropriate fa lit size and shape of lhe item being decorated. When used properlr, colored frostings can bring cake decorations 10 W! Bllttercream, royal icing and foncbnt are easily limed llsing paste food CIt! ing. Liquid food colorings :I re not recommended as they may thin the frostJr\1; too much. Always add coloring gradually with a toothpick. Frosting colooleOO 10 darken as they sit. It is easy to add more hiler to darken the color if 00:0sary, but it is difficult to lighten the color if tOO much is added. Piping bags made from plastic, nylon or plastic-coated canvas arc araiI.JI* in a range of sizes. A disposable piping cone can also be made from pm!r mem paper. t. lost decorations and designs ;lre made by using a piping bag fined wit!, P.1stry lip. Pastry tips are available with dozens of different openings and ~ referred to by stand:lrdized numbers. Some commonly used tips :In' 0;00. here. You can produce a vllriety of borders and designs by changing the pt'" sure, the angle of the bolg and the distance between the tip and the rot' gg. face.
_0--
tnI- t67
-Drop
1:;:::.._..::;::::....:";j
~~r- '2D . .
OJ
Tip I'tlllerns
CAKESNVDFROS17NGS
~
~
1023
==========
AfAxl,w; A PARCU"£NT-PAPER CONB
Adisposable piping bag or cone is easily nude from parchment paper. Begin Vritl! an tqJibteral triangle of uncreased paper. Shape it
into a oone as shO'WlI, folding the top edges 1<>gether to hold the shape. The point of the oone can be cut as desired. Papercones are especially
chocolate.
I. Wnpping opposite ends of the
2. Folding the ends together to seal.
3. Cutting the tip of the filled
parchment triangle.
parchment cone.
I'RocEoURE fOR FIUL'G A PIPING BAG
1. Select the proper size piping bag for your task. Insert the desired lip.
useful for writing messages or piping melted
2. Fold down the lOp of the bag,
Ihen fill approximately half full with frosting. Do nOI overfiJllhe bag.
3. Be sure to close the open end tightly before you stall piping. Hold the bag firmly in your palm and squeeze from the tOp. Do nOt squeeze from the bottom or you may force the contents out the wrong end. Use the fingers of your other hand to guide the bag as yOll work.
1024 ~
CIW'lFR 33
Piped-On Decorating Techniques Instead of leaving (he sides of a frosted cake smooth or coating them \\ chopped nU IS or crumbs, you can pipe on frosting designs and panetTh. ,\ simple but e legant design is the basket weave, shown here. Normally. a border pauern will be piped around the base of the cake m; along the top edge. Borders should be piped on after nuts or any ()(her p. nishes are applied . Each slice or serving of cake can be marked with its own decoration. Fa example, a roseue of frosting or a whole nut or piece of fruit could be UStd as shown. This makes it easier 10 portion the Cllke evenly, Delicate flowers such as roses can be piped, allowed 10 harden, then placed
on the cake in attractive arrangements. Royal icing is particularly useful fa making decorations in advance because it dries very h:trd and lasts indefinil~
...
..
ApP/J,jllg a IxISkelll'(!(It'e p(llIen/lo lbe
Applying a shell barrier to tbe weddlllg
Placing roJal ici"gjloll'crs on/a caM
sides oflbe wedding cake.
cake.
portlol/s.
PROCEDURE FOR PIPING BUTIERCREAM ROSES
1. Using a =104 tip, pipe a mound of icing onto a rose nail.
2. Pipe a curve of icing around the mound to create the center of the
rose.
CAKESANDFROSllNGS
j.
Pipe three overlapping petals around the center.
4. Pipe five more overlapping petals around the first three petals.
The key to success with a piping bag is practice, practice, practice. Use plain all-purpose shonening piped Onto parchment paper to practice and experiment with piping techniques. Once you are comfonable using a piping bag, you can apply these newfound skills directly to cakes and pastries.
Storing Cakes l:nfrosted cake layers or sheets can be stored at room temperature for [WO or IIIree days if well covered. Frosted or filled cakes are usually refrigerated to prevent spoilage. Simple bunercreams or sugar glazes, however, can be left at room temperature for one or two days. Any cake containing cuswrd filling or whipped cream mllst be refrigerated. Cakes made with foam-type frosting mId be eaten the day they are prepared. Cakes can usually be frozen with great success; this makes them ideal for baking in advance. Unfrosted layers or sheets should be well covered with ~astic wrap and frozen at O°F (-ISOC) or lower. High-fat cakes will keep for up to six months; egg foam cakes begin to deteriorate after two or three IOOIIths.
Frostings and fillings do not freeze panicularly well, often losing flavor or changing texture when frozen. Buttercreams made with egg whites or sugar Sjrups tend to develop crystals and graininess. Foam frostings weep, expelling beads of sugar and becoming sticky. Fondant will absorb moisture and separate from the cake. If you must freeze a filled or frosted cake, it is best to freeze it unwrapped first, until the frosting is firm. TIle cake can then be covered with plastic wrap without damaging the frosting design. leave the cake \\Tapped until completely thawed. It is best to thaw cakes in the refrigerator if !imt' pennilS. Do not refreeze thawed cakes.
ffjONCLUS/ON .n-, The ability to produce good cakes and frostings depends on using the right balance of high-quality ingredienlS and combining them with the proper techniques. When preparing cakes and frost ings, always combine flavors and tex· lUres with care; apply frostings, garnishes and decorations with care as welL Amid overly rich, cloyingly sweet or garishly decorated products. With study mel practice, yOll can learn the mixing techniques and assembly skills neces· sary for prOOlIcing good cakes. With additional practice, you will develop the &:rorating and garnishing skills of a fine pastry chef.
~
1025
5. The finished rose is placed on the cake.
1026 """ CIW'l'ER 33
,2 2UE5TIONS FOR DISCUSSION I. Cake ingredients can be classified by function into six categories. uSt them and give an example of each. 2. What is the primary leavening agent in cakes made with the foaming method? How is Ihis similar to or different from cakes made with the creaming method? 3. \X' hat is the difference between a spongecake and a classic genoise? 4. Describe the procedures for making three types of frosting or icing as discussed in this chapter. 5. List the steps employed in assembling and frosting a three-layer cake.
dnDlTIONAL CAKE AND FROSTING FORMULAS .n-. RECLPE 33.16
VANILL4 RAsPBERRY lAYER CAKE Wlm WHITE CHOCOIAI'E BU1TERCKEAAf NOTE:: This dish appears ill the Chapter Cpellillgphotogrtlpb. HYAlT REGENCY SCOlTSDALE AT GAINEY HANell, ScOITSD.I.l.E, Kl FONlIltr Execlltit:e Pastry CheJJlldy Doherty
VANIllA CAKES Yield: I 8-in. (2O-cm), 1 IO-in. (25-an) and I 14-in. (35-cm) tier for Wedding Cake
Method: Two-Sl:lge
Cake flour Granulated sugar Baking powder
I lb. 14 oz. 21b. 8 oz. 2 1/ 2 oz.
8;0 g 1130 g 70 g
Eggs
28
Salt Fluid Flex Milk
I oz.
28 28 g 570 g 450ml
lIb. 4 oz. pt.
I
1. Prepare the pans by spraying with pan release and lining with parchnm 2.
3.
4.
5.
paper. Combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, eggs and salt in a large mim bowl. Whip on high speed for 8 minutes. Add Fluid Flex (an emulSifier for spongecakes) and milk. Mix for 8 mort minutes at medium speed. Divide the batter between one 8-inch (20-centimeter), one IO-inch (2Xentimeter) and one 14-inch 05-centimeter) cake pan. Fill each pan halfway. Bake at 350°F (180°C) for 35-60 minutes, depending upon tier size. T!r cake is done when it springs back when lightly touched in the cetIltt Allow to cool, then remove from the pans and freeze.
Approximate nlue5 per &oz. (l81·g) $CIYing: Calories 600. TOlal fat 28 g. Saturated fat ~ g. a. k:ste rol 240 mg. Sodium 520 mg. Tout carbohydrates 75 g. J>ro(eln 10 g. Vlwnln A 10!l QI. dum 20%
CAKES AND FROffiNGS ~~
RASPBERRY SYRUP 1 pt.
Water Granulated sugar Raspberry liqueur
450 ml
lib.
4;0 g
2 oz.
60ml
1. Bring the sugar and W,lIer to a boil, then cool to room temperature. Add
the raspberry liqueur.
PaStry cream, chilled Raspberry liqueur Gelatin Water Whipped cream
DIPLOMAT CREAM FILLING I gal. 4 oz. I 1/2 oz. 6 oz. I ql.
41t 120 g 42 g 170 ml lit
1. Place the p:lstl)' cream in a large mixer bowl and whip on high speed until
smoolh. Add the raspberry liqueur. 2 Soften the gelatin in the waler, then place over a low flame and heat to dissolve. j. Add I pint (450 milliliters) of the raspberl)'-flavored pastry cream 10 the gelatin. Place over a low flame and whip by hand until smooth and the gelatin is incorporated. Add this mixture to the rest of the pastry cream. t Fold in the whipped cream. \;¥O.lU1l.1!C '"llucs ptT I-oz. OO-g) S('T\'ing; CaIorIe5 40. Total fat 2 g. Saturated fat 1 g. ChoksRrOI Xl mg. Sodium 10 mg, Tota l carbohydrates 5c g. Protein J g
WHITE CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREMI Granulated sugar 5 lb. 8 oz. 2500 g \l'ater I lb. 6 oz. 625 ml Egg whiles I lb. 12 oz. BOOg Unsalted butter, softened 7Ib. 3150 g White creme de cacao 9 oz. 260 ml White chocolate, melted 1 lb. 8 oz. 680 g 1. Cook Ihe sugar and water to 242°F (t 17°C), then pour into a measuring container with a handle for easier pouring. 2 SIan whipping the egg whites when the sugar reaches 235°F (t 13°C). j. When the whites are whipped to firm peaks, add the hot sugar symp slowly while continuing to whip at low speed. \\7hip until completely cool. t Add the bulter and whip until smooth. S. Add the creme de cacao to the while chocolate. Whip until smooth, then add the chocolate to Ihe buuercream. ~lC
'";lIves per
t-oz. (30·g) serving'
Calori~
140, Total fal
JJ
g. SalUraled fat 7 g.
Cho1cs-
1nII ?; mg. Sodium 10 mg. Total carboh)"drale!ii 10 g. Prole in I g, Viumin A
AssDtBLY: Each cake tier is sliced horizontally into three layers. The layers are trushed with the mspberry syntp, then filled with diplomat cream and fresh raspberries. The top and sides of each tier are coated with the white chocolate oottercreamj the sides are coated with a basketweave design; and the tiers are deror.lted with pulled sugar and royal icing roses. TIle assembly is illustrated ,iIh lhe photogmphs appearing throughout {his chapter.
1027
1028
~.
OW'TER 33
= = == = = """"-f'>'
=====
RECIPE 33. 17
CARRoT CAKE WI17I CREM! CHEESE FROSTING Yield: 4 Sheet Cakes or 12 10-in. (2S-em) Rounds
Method: Creaming
Vegetable oil
3 lb. 8 oz.
1750 g
Granulated sugar
3 lb. 11 oz. lib. 12 oz. 5 lb. 3 lb. 4 oz.
1850 g 875g
Eggs Carrots, shredded Crushed pineapple, with juice
Baking soda Cinnamon, ground
I 1/ 2 oz.
2 oz. I 112 oz.
Pumpkin pie spice
Salt Baking powder Cake flour
I 1/2 oz. I 1/4 oz. 4 lb. 10 oz.
Coconut, shredded Walnut pieces
lib. l ib.
2500 g 1625 g 45 g
60g 45 g 45 g 40 g 2300 g 500 g 500g
1. Blend the oil and sugar in a large mixer bowl fined with the paddle.
tachment. Add the eggs, beating to incofJX?rate. 2. Blend in {he carrots and pineapple.
3. Sift the dry ingredients together, then add them to the bauer. Slir in !he roconu! and walnuts. 4. Divide the bauer into greased and floured pans.
5. Bake a( 340"F 070"C) umil springy to the touch and a cake tester coors out almost d ean. Approximate values per serving: Catorles 390. TOtal fat 22 g. Saturnted fal 4 g, Cholc!itmll olOq Sodium 490 mg, Total carbo hyd rntes 44 g, Protein 5 g. Vitamin A IIXm
CREAM CHEESE FROSTING Unsalted butter, softened Cream cheese, softened Margarine Vanilla extract Powdered sugar, sifted
12 oz. 3 1b. 12 oz. 1 oz. 6 lb.
350 g 1500 g 350 g 30 ml
3000g
1. Cream the butler and cream cheese until smooth. Add the margarine al'Il
beat well. 2. Beat in the vanilla extraa. Slowly add the sugar, scraping down the IxlIt frequentl y. Beat until smooth. Approximate values per serving' <:aIories 130, Total fat 6 g, Salurated fat 3 g, ChoJes1troll, III Sodium 45 mg. Total carboh}'dralC$ 17 g. Prol~ifl I g, Vltamln A 6%
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 33. 18
MARBLE SHEET CAKE WI17I FUDGE FROSTING Yield: 1 18 in. x 24 in . (45 em x 60 em) Sheet Cake Cake flour, sifted Baking powder
lib. II oz. 2 1/2 ·Ibsp.
Method: Creaming
1300 g
35 ml
CAKESANDFROS/1/1'GS C""'ao 1029
Sah Unsalted butter Granulated sugar Milk Vanilla extract Dark chocolate, melted Baking soda Coffee extract Egg whites Cocoa Fudge Frosting (Recipe 33.10
7 ml 360 g 1300 g 720 ml S ml 135 g
I 1/2 l5p. 12 oz. lib. 11 oz. 24 oz. Itsp. 4 1/2 oz. 1/4 \Sp. 2 tsp. 12 as needed
I ml
10 ml 12 as needed
I. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt together; set aside. l Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy.
Combine the milk and vanilla. t Add the dry ingredients to the creamed butler alternately with the milk. Stir the batter only until smooth. S Separate the bauer into two equal portions. Add the melted chocolate, baking soda and coffee extract to one portion. 6: Whip the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Fold half of the whites into the v".Inilla batter and half into the chocolate batter. 1. Spoon the batter onto a greased sheet pan, alternating the twO colors. Pull a paring knife through the batter to swirl the colors together. & Bake al 350°F (l8O"C) until a lester comes out clean, approximately 25 minutes. 9. Allow the cake to cool, then cover the top with Cocoa Fudge Frosting . j.
.\ppIIlXunale ,.lues per Wl.. 057-g) serving: Calories 480, Total fal 17 g, Saluraled fal 11 g. CIIoiesteroI 40 mg, Sodium 250 mg, Tola] carbohydrales 75 g. Protein 7 g, Vitamin A 15%, Clklum 15'"
====== ~. ======
RECIPE 33. 19
FRESH COCONUT
CAKE
Yield: 1 9-in. (22-cm) Cake AU-purpose shortening Granulated sugar Egg yolks All·purpose flour Sah Baking powder MUk Vanilla extract Egg whites Coconut milk Frosting (recipe follows) Fresh coconut, grated
Method: Creaming 8 oz. I lb.
4 14 oz. 1 l5p. 4 l5p. 10 oz. ltsp. 7 oz. 4 oz. 8 oz.
225 g 4;0 g 4 420 g 5 ml 20 ml 300 ml
5 ml 210 g 120 ml 225 g
I. Cream the shortening and sugar together until light and fluffy. Add the egg
yolks one al a time, blending well. Z Sift the dry ingredients logether, then add to the creamed mixture alternately wilh the milk. Contin ued
1030
~.
CIW'fER 33 j. Stir in the vanilla .
4. Whip the egg whiles until firm peaks form . Fold the whiles into the bar.er. Portion into twO 9-inch (22-centimclcr) cake pans that have been greased
and lined with parchment paper. 5. Bake at 350°F (180°C) until a cake tester comes all! clean, approxill11tdy
25-30 minutes. 6. Remove the cakes from the oven and prick the top with a toothpick. BMb: the coconut milk over the cakes, allowing it to be absorbed compJele!I' Coolon a rack, then remove from the pans.
7. Top one cake layer with frosting , then sprinkle on 2 ounces (60 grnmsld Ihe grated l.'U\.:unul. Top with Ihe second cake layer. Cool1he top and with the remaining frosting. then sprinkle 011 the remaining coconut
~JCb
Approximate \':lIUl'S per 1/10
FROSTING Granulated sugar Ught corn syrup Egg whites Salt
5
4;0 g 330 g 5
pinch
pinch
lib. II oz.
1. Bring the sugar and corn syrup to a boil. Cook to 238 c F (J WC).
2. fo,'leanwhile. beat the egg whites with the salt until stiff. With the mixer III
second speed, add the hot sugar synlp to the whites in a slow. stream. Continue whipping until the frosting is cool.
Stt'a~
======= ~ ====== RECIPE 33.20
S ACHER TORTE Yield: 2 9-in. (22-cm) Cakes
All-purpose flour Cocoa powder, alkalized Unsalted butter Granulated sugar Eggs, separated Hazelnuts, toasted and ground ApriCot jam ApriCot glaze Chocolate Glaze (Recipe 32.29)
10 oz.
3 oz.
280 9 80 g
12 112 oz. 18 oz.
520 g
360 9
14
14
3 oz. 18 oz. as needed as needed
80g 520 g as needed as needed
1. Grease two 9-inch (22-centimeter) springform P"lnS lightly with buner am
2. 3. 4. 5.
6.
line with parchment paper. Sift the flour and cocoa powder together twice; set aside. Cream the butter and 7 ounces (200 grams) of the sugar together \lid light and fluffy. Gradually add the egg yolks and beat well. Fold in the sifted flour and cocoa and the hazelnuts b}' hand. Whip Ihe egg whites (0 soft peaks, then gradually add the remainil1 sugar and continue whipping until stiff, glossy peaks form. Lighten the batter with about one founh of the egg whites, then fold II the remaining whites.
ClKFSANDFR0577NGS
7, Pour the batter into the prep:mxl pans and bake at 350°F (l80°C) until the cakes are sel, approximately 35-45 minutes. 8. Cool the cakes for 5 minutes before removing from the pans. 9. Cool completely, then rut each cake horizontally into three layers. Spread apricOt jam on each la)ler and restack them, creating twO three-layer cakes. 10. Heat the apricot glaze until spread,tble. Pour it over the tOp and sides of each cake. II. Allow the apricot gla ze 10 cool completely, then pour the chocolate glaze over the tOp and sides of each cake [0 create a smooth, glossy coating. Approxim;l!C l";ltUes per l/tiJ-c"Jke scrving: Ca lorie!! 4SO. Tota l fat 21 g, Sarnratcd fat 10 g. Cho lcs· ItrOt 185 mg. Sodium 60 mg, Tota l ca rbohydrate!! 56 g. Protein 7 g. Vitam in A 20%
RECIPE 33.21
D EVll'S FOOD
CAKE
Yield: 5 Sheet Pans or 30 8-in. (20-cm) Rounds
Cake flour Granulated sug:tr Emulsified shonening Cocoa powder Salt Baking powder Baking soda Nonfat dry milk powder Vanilla extract Corn symp Water, cold Eggs
Sib. 61b. 3 lb. lib.
2 1/2 oz. 3 oz. I 1/2 oz.
Method: High-Ratio
2500 g 3000 g 15()() g
;oog 75 g
90g 45 g
9 1/2 oz.
270 g
I 1/2 oz.
45 ml
lib. 2q!.80z. 4 lb.
500 g 2.25 It 2000 g
1. Mix the cake flour, sugar and emulsified shonening in a large mixer bowl
1.
j.
t
t
6.
on low speed for 5 minutes. Add the cocoa powder, salt. baking powder, baking soda, milk powder, \·anilla, corn symp and 1 qu:tn (1 liter) cold waler. Blend welt, then scrape down the bowl. Combine the eggs with the remaining 1 quan 8 ounces (1250 milliliters) of cold water and add to the baller in three equal pans, blending well and scraping down the bowl after each addition. After all Ihe ingredients are incorporated, blend on low speed for 2 minutes. Divide into greased and floured pans, scaling I gal10n (4 liters) of baner for each shcci pan or I pound (450 grams) for each S-inch (20-centimeter) round layer. Bake at 3400F (J 70°C) until springy and a toothpick inserted in [he center comes out clean .
."ppro.nm:u~ I";lJUCS per 3.5-<Jz. OOO-g) .$Crving: Calo ries 400. Total fat 17 g, Saturated fat 5 g, ChoIcRtroI I)) mg. Sodium 460 mg. Total carbohrd rates 55 8. PTotein 6 g. Calcium 10%. Iron 15%
1031
1032
~
CJIAPlFR 33
RECIPE 33.22
B {)CHE DE
NOEL
Yield: 10-12 Servings Genoise, Recipe 33.3, freshly baked Simple syrup Buttercream-coffee, chocolate or vanilla
one-half sheet one-half sheet as needed as needed 1 ql.
I It
I . Roll up the genoise in a spiral, staning with the long side. Wrap in
pm.
ment paper and cool. 2. Carefully unroll the cake. Brush the interior with simple syrup and (U1 with buttercream, leaving a I-inch (2.5-centimeter) unfrosted rim arourr each edge. 3. Reroll the cake tighdy and position it with the seam down on a cake M board.
4. Cut one end from the cake on a diagonal. Place the cut piece on t~ the log, securing with toothpicks. 5. Pipe additional buttercream OntO the cake log using a large star tip. Pipr the buttercream on the ends in a spiral pattern. Decorate as desired wth buttercream flowers , baked meringue mushrooms or marzipan figures. Approximlle ..alues per serving: Calories 650. Tou! rat II g. Sa.tur.lted rat 6 g. Cho1esttrol ) Sodium 330 mg. Total carbohydr.ltes 115 g. Protein 2 g. Vitamin C 7tm, Cbims-no ~
I . Rolling the cake filled with
2. Attaching the cut end to the log.
3. Piping on the buttercream.
buttercream.
~ ======
--...
---
RECIPE 33.23
lADYFINGERS
Yield : 80 4-in. (lO-cm) Cookies Cornstarch Bread flour Eggs, separated Granulated sugar Lemon juice
3 oz.
4 oz. 6 60z. 1/2 tsp.
908 120 g
6 180g 2ml
CAKES AND FROSl1NGS I. Sift the cornstarch and bread flour together.
2 Whip the egg yolks with 2 ounces (60 grams) of sugar umil thick and creamy. j. Whip the egg whites until foamy. Gradually add 2 ounces (60 grams) of the sugar and the lemon juice. Continue whipping (0 soft peaks, then add the remaining sugar gradually and whip to stiff peaks. 4. Fold approximately one quarter of (he egg whites into the whipped yolks to lighten them, (hen gently fold in the remaining whites. Fold in the flour mixture. S. Place the batter into a pastry bag fined with a large plain lip. Pipe 4-inch (lO-centimeter) long cookies onto paper-lined sheet pans. 6. Bake immediately at 425°F (220°C) until lightly browned, approximately 8 minutes. Appro:1imalc v:lIues per cookie: Calories 20, Total fat 0 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Cholestero l 15 mg. SodIum 0 mg, Total carboh)'drates 4 g, Protein 1 g, Cblms-f31 free: no salur:Ut'd fal : low t holes. troI: no 5Odium: low ca loric
=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 33.24
CifOCOlAI'E FWURLESS
CAKE
VINCENT ON CAMELBACK, P1IOf.\lX, AZ Che/Vincenl GfierillxlUJI
Yield: 21 Servings Unsalted butter Chocolate Eggs, separated Granulated sugar Powdered suga r
I lb.
27 oz. 20
7 oz. as needed
450 g BOO g 20 200 g as needed
I. Melt the butter and chocolate over a bain marie. l \\:'hisk the yolks into the melted chocolate.
Whip the egg whites umil shiny. Add the granulated sugar and whip until \"erY StitT. Fold into the chocolate. Pour the baller into a futl -sized hOlel pan thai is lined with buttered parchment. t Bake at 400°F (200°C) for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 3WF (JSOOC) and continue baking umil done, approximately 40 minutes. A cake tester will not come out clean, even though the cake will be done. S. Invert the cake onlo the back of a sheel pan. Cool completely; then dust with powdered sugar.
j.
lp]Xm:inulC values per 4-o~. (J IS-g) scrv ing: Calories 470. Toul rot 35 g, Saturated fat 20 g, Che>250 mg, Sodium 65 mg , Total carbohydrata 32 g, Protein 8 g, Vitamin A 25%
l$m)[
~
1033
1034
CIW'I7!R 33
RECIPE 33.25
CHOCOlATE TRUFFLE
CAKE
FLYING FISII , SFATTlE, WA
Pastry' Chef Robi" Neiefs Yield: 12 Servings
Semi-sweet chocolate Unsalted butter. softened Grdnulated sugar Eggs, separated
8 oz. 8 oz. 5 oz.
250g 250 g 150 g
6
6
Cream of tartar
1/2 tsp.
3 ml
Ganache Filling (recipe follows) Ganache Coaling (recipe follows) Whipped cream
as needed for garnish
Fresh berries
as needed for garnish
1. Melt the chocolate over a bain marie and set aside. 2. Cream the butter and 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) of the sugar until Jigb: and fluffy . Slowly add the egg yolks, o ne at a time. 3. Scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl and add the melted ch0colate. 4. In a dean, dry mLxing bowl. whip the egg whites and cream of tartar 10 soft peaks. Gradually sprinkle in the remaining sugar and continue be:I~ until stiff but not dry. 5. Fold one quarter of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture to lighten Gently fold the remaining egg whites into the chocolate, then JXlur the bI· ter into an ungreased 9-inch (23·centimeter) springform pan. Bake at 32'i°f (160°C) until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, appro.-umately 45 minutes. 6. Allow the cake 10 cool, then remove from the pan. When the cake is c0mpletely cool and firm to the touch, tOp it with the Ganache Filling. using a spatub to form the ganache into a dome shape. 7. Refrigerate until the filling is fi rm, Place the cake on an icing rack OI'rT a baking pan and pour the Ganache Coating over the entire cake. Refriger· ate briefly to set the coating before serving. Approxim.JIC" ",dues per !;CTYing: Otlories 68t, Total fal 61 g. Saturatl-d fat 36 g. CholcsteroI 2~' q: Sodium 60 mg. Tout carbohrdrates 39 g, Protein 8 g
GA<~ACHE
FILLING
Yield: 34 oz. (1020 g)
Cream Semi·sweet chocolate, chopped
2 1/2 c.
600 ml
14 oz.
420 g
1. Bring the cream to a boil, remove from the heat and whisk in the choco-
late. Stir until the chocolate is completely melted. Refrigerate until firm. 2. Just before use, gently whip the g:lI1<1che to lighten. Approximate values per t-oz, GO-g) servin.'!.: Calo ries t07. Total fal 11 g, Saturall«\ fat terot 34 mg, Sodium 10 mg. Total carbohydrates 3.5 g. Prolein I g
6 g, ( hoD
CW-:S AND FRill71NGS
GANACHE COATING Yield: 17 oz.
Cream St.'1Tli·sweet chocolate, chopped Unsalted butter
Boz.
225 ml 225 g 109
Soz. I oz.
I. Bring the cream to a boil, remove from the heat and add the chocolate and butler. SliT gemly to mel! the chocolate and butler, but do not whisk the
ganache. Approximate ''31ul'S per 1-01.. (30-g) serving: Calories 122, Total fal Il g. Saturated fat 6 g, Choles·
Imll 23 mg, SodIum 5 n1g. Total carboh)'dr.lIes 8 g. Protein 1 g
~ =============== RECIPE 33.26
CONTINENTAL BROWNIES Yield: I Sheet Pan
Method : Egg Foam
Unsweetened chocolate Unsalted butter Eggs Granulated sugar
; lb. 12 oz.
2.6 kg
Vanilla extract
2 oz.
Gog
All-purpose flour
lib. 10 oz. lib.
800 g 500g
Pecan pieces
lib. lib.
1000 g 1000 g
20
20
I. Melt the chocol;lIc with the butter over a double ooiler.
2 While the chocolate is melting, whip the eggs and sugar in a large mixer
bowl fitted with tile paddle attachment for 10 minutes. j. Add the melted chocolate and vanilla to the eggs. Stir TO blend completely. Stir in the flour and nuts. t Spread the batter evenly OntO a parchment-lined and buuered sheet pan. The pan will be very full. Bake at 325°F (I60°C) for 40 minutes, rotat ing the p:ln :!fter the first 20 minutes. So Allow to cool completely before cuning, Dust the brownies with confectioner'S sugar if desired. lpproXinul.' \"Jlues per 2-inch (5-cm) square: Cato ries 343, Total fat 18 g, Saturaled fat 9 g, Cho-
1$tro1 70 mg. SOdium 16 mg. Total carbo hydrate!' 4t g, Protein 4 g
RECIPE 33.27
APPLESAUCE BROWNIES \1eld: 1 Sheet Pan
Unsweetened chocol;lIc Cake flour, sifted Cocoa powder Slit Egg whites
4 oz. lib. 2 {Sp.
120 g 450 g 270 g 10 ml
12
12
9 oz.
CO l/lilllled
1035
1036 - .
CIWl7JR 33
Whole eggs Granulated sugar Light corn syrup Unsweetened applesauce Canola oil Vanilla extraCt 1. 2. 3. 4.
8 2 lb. 2 oz.
8 I kg
2 lb. I 1/2 pI. 7 oz.
900g
2 Thsp.
30 ml
670ml 210 ml
Coat a sheet pan with spray pan release.
Melt the chocolate over a bain marie and set aside. Sift the flour, cocoa powder and salt together and set aside. Whisk the egg whites and eggs together. Add the sugar, com syrup, applesauce, oil and vanilla. Whisk in the chocolate. 5. Fold the flour mixture into the egg mixture. Pour into the prepared.,. and bake at 350°F 080°C) until a cake tester comes out clean, approJi. mately 25 minutes. Approximale Y;llues per 2·inch (5
.s g. QI.
\
'-----" \
I
I \
I
/
=== ~ ===
After studying this chapter, you will be able to: ~
prep.'Ire a varie[)' of custards and creams
~
prepare a variety of ice creams, sorbets and frozen dessert items
,""'I!I.. pn,:p
<"'\!l..
dessert
sauces use these products in preparing and serving other P,lslry and dessert items
~ == EGGS AND S..,WTATION
Eggs are high-protein foots mal are easily conl:uninaled bl' bacteria such as sal-
monella thaI cause food-bonlC illnesses. Because custards cannol be heated to tem-
peratures high enough to ctffiroy these bacteria without first cuniting the eggs, it is especially important that sanitary guideline<; be followed in preparing the egg products discussed in this chapler. 1. Cleanliness is imporunt: Wash your hands thoroughly before beginning; be
sure to use clean, sanitized bowls, utensils and storage containers. 2, When breaking or separating eggo;, do not allOlV the exterior of the eggshell 10 come into contac1 \\;th the raw egg. 3. Heat the milk \0 just below a boil before combining it with the egg;. This reduces the final cooking time. 4. Chill the finisht'd product quickly in an ice bath and refrigerate immediately. 5. 00 not use your fingers to taste the custanI. 6. 00 not store :Uly custard mixture, cooked or unwoked, al room temperature.
he bakeshop is respollSible Jor more thal1 just quick breads. yeast breads, pies, pastlies, cookies and cakes. It also produces mall)' delightjully sweet concoctions that are 110t baked and often 1101 ern cooked. These include sweet ClIstards, creams, Jrozen desserts and dessert sauces. Sweet custards are cooked miJ.:lures oj eggs, sllgarmuJ milk,. flour or cornstarch may be added. Sweet ClIslards call be flaIXlred ill a variety of ways and eaten hot or cold. Some are sen~ alone as a dessen or used as a fillillg, toppillg or accompallimemfrx pies, pastries or cakes. Creams illclude whipped cream and mi.\1I1rtS lightened with whipped cream sLlch as BavariallS, chiffons mid mOllsses. Frozen dessel1s inclucle ice cream and sorbet as well as tbt still-frozen mousses called semifreclcli. Sauces Jor these desse/1s, including In/if pu rees, caramel sallas and chocolate symp, are also made il/. the bakeshop alld are discussed in this chapter. Indeed, mallY of the items presented ill tbU chapter are components, meant to be combined with pastries (Chapter 32) or cakes (Chapter 33) to form complete dessens. GUideliriesfrx assembling desserts are given al this chapter's end.
CUSTARDS
.N"-,
A custard is any liquid thickened by the coagulation of egg proteins. A ~
tard's consistency depends on the ratio of eggs to liquid and the type d lit uid used. The more eggs used, the thicker and richer the final proou("\ \\ill be The richer the liquid (cream versus milk, for example), the thicker the final product. Most custards, with the not:lble exception of pastry creams, are rd thickened by starch. A custard can be stirred or baked. A stirred custard tends to be soft, ridI and creamy. A baked custard, typically prepared in a bain marie, is usualI)' fim1 enough to unmold and slice.
Stirred Custards A stirred custard is cooked on the stove top either direcdy in a saucepan IX over a double boiler. It must be stirred throughout the cooking process to p-evem curdling (overcooking). A stirred custard can be used as a dessen sauce, incorporated into a COOlplex dessen or eaten alone. The stirred custards most commonly used in fool service operations are vanilla custard sauce and pastry cream. Other papular stirred custards are lemon curd (Recipe 2;.16) and sabayon (Recipe }!J)
Vanilla Custard Sallce A custard sauce is made with egg yolks, sugar and milk or half-and-half. Usually flavored with vanilla bean or pure vanilla extract, a custard sauce can also be flavored with liquor, chocolate, ground nulS or extracLS. It is prepared on the stove top over direct heat. When making CUSIaId sauce, be extremely careful 10 stir the mixture continually and not allo\\" ~ to
CUSTARDS, CREAI/S, FROZEN DlNER1S AND D~ERT S1UCES f"!a.
1041
boil, or it will curdle. A properly made custard sauce should be smooth and thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. It should nO{ contain any nO{iceable bits of cooked egg. Vanilla custard sauce (Fr. creme al1glaise) is served with cakes, pastries, fruits and soumes and is often used for decorating dessen plates. It may be selVed hot or cold. It is also used as the base for many ice creams. A lIery thick version of custard sauce can be made using heavy cream and additional egg yolks. Its consistency is more like a pudding than a sauce. This rustard is often served over fruit in a small ramekin or other container and then topped with caramelized sugar for a dessen known as creme brfilee (burnt cream). See Recipe 34. 16.
Pas/fJl Cream Pastry cream (Fr. creme patissiere) is a stirred custard made with egg yolks, rugar and milk and thickened with starch (flour, cornstarch or a combination of the two). Because the starch prOtects the egg yolks from curdling, pastry cream can be ooiled. In fact, it must be boiled to fully gelatinize the Slarch and eliminate the taste of raw Starch. Pastry cream can be flavored wilh chocolale, liquors, extracts or fruits. (Pudding is nothing more than flavored pastry cream.) It is used for filling mailS, cream puffs, napoleons, fnJit tans and other pastries. Pastry cream thickened with cornstarch is also the filling for cream pies (see Chapter 32, Pies, Pastries and Cookies). Pastry cream is thick enough to hold its shape 'I,ihout making paSlry doughs soggy. Pastry cream can be rather heavy. It can be lightened by folding in whipped cream to produce a mousseline, or Italian meringue can be folded in to produce a creme Chibouts. PiocEoURE FOR PREPARING VANILlA CUSTARD SAUCE AND PASTRY CRWt
/. Placc milk andlor cream in a heavy, nonreactive saucepan; add lIanilla bean if desired. 1. In a mixing bOwl , whisk together the egg yolks, sugar and starch (if used). Do nO{ use an electric mixer as it incorporates too much air. j, Bring the liquid just to a boil. Temper the egg mixture with approximately onc third of the hot liquid. t Pour the tempered eggs into the remaining hot liquid and return the mix!Ure to the heal. The stove's temperature can be as hot as you dare: The lower the temperature, the longer the custard will take to thicken; the higher the temperature, the greater the risk of curdling. ~ Cook, stirring constantly, until thickened. Custard sauce should reach a temperature of 18soF (85°C). Pastry cream should be allowed to boil for a few moments. , Immediately remove the cooked custard from the hot saucepan to avoid o\·crcooking. Butter or other flavorings can be added at this time. ,. Cool over an ice bath. Store in a clean, shallow container, colier and refrigerate. PIocmURE FOR SAlVAGING CURDLED VANlll' CUSTARD SAUCE
1. Strain the sauce into a bowL Place the bowl oller an ice bath and whisk \;gorously. 1. If this does nO{ smooth out the overcooked sauce, place the sauce in a blender and process for a few moments.
Temper-Ie beal genlly and gmtll/ally; refers /0 /be process of slou//y addillg a hoi lit/IIi" to eggs Ie raise lbeir temperature u'ilbou/ musing/hem /Q wnlk.
1042
CiW'l1!R 34
RECIPE 34. 1
VANILL4 SAUCE Yield : 40 oz. (1200 ml) Half-and-half Vanilla bean, split
I
q1.
1 12 10 oz.
Egg yolks
Granulated sugar
1"
1
12
300g
1. Using a heavy nonreactive S;luccp:tn, bring the half-and-half and uni bean jusl 10 a boil. 2. \X'bisk the egg yolks :tnd sugar together in a mixing bowL Temper the ~ mixture with llpproximatdy one third of the hot half-and-half. then l'l'Iurn the entire mix(U re 10 the sallcepan with the remilining half-and-half.
3. Cook the sauce over medium heal. stirring conslantlr, until it is thk~
enough
10
coat the back of a spoon. Do
nOI
allow the sauce
\0
boil.
4. As soon as the sauce thickens, remove it from the heat and pour it throogr: a fine mesh strainer into a dean bowl. Chill the S:lUCC over an ice ootb
then co,'er and keep refrigerated. l1le sauce should last 3-i days. \';dues per I-n ...oz. (38..g) ~""Lng Calories 80. TOI:1i f3t .5~. Saturatcl fat ~ i ~ OIlmg. Sodium 15 mg, Toul carbohyd rates 8 g, I'ToIclll 2 g. Vitamin A (Jrl
ApproxilT\;l~e
1. Mise en place for
\':l l1m"
2. Tempering the eggs.
sauce.
Icsl"roi
~5
3. The properly cooked sauce.
4. Str:tining lhe sauce into a bowl.
RECIPE 34 . 2
PASTRY CREAAt Yield : 1 qt. (I It) Cake flour Gr:mulated sugar j\'lilk Egg yolks Vanilla bean Unsalted buller
4 oz. 12 oz. 1 'II.
120 g 340g
12 1
1 II 12 1
2 oz.
60g
I. Sift [he flour and sugar together.
2. Whisk 8 ou nces (22; milliliters) of the milk into the egg yolks. Then adl the flour and sugar and whisk until completely smOOlh.
CUSTARDS, CREAIIS. FROZFJo/ DHSSER7S AND DE5SERT SWCE5
J. Heat the rem:lining milk with the v:lnilla be:1I1 in a heal')' nonreadil'e
-i
i
6. 7,
saucepan. As soon :IS the milk comes to a boil. whisk approximately one third of it into the egg-and-flour mixllIre and blend completely. Pour the egg mixture into the s.aucepan with the rest of the milk. Stir constantly until the custard thickens. As it thickens. the custard will go through a lumpy stage. Allhough you should not be alarmed, you should increase the slX"'C<1 of your stirring. Continue to slir vigorously. and it will smOOlh OUI and thicken just before comin~ to a boil. Allow the pastry cream to boil for
tard. 8. CoI'er by placing plastic wTap on the surface of the custard. Chill over :In ice bath. Remove the vanilla belln just before using the pastry cream. >,pp!m:;ffilIC ,"~llICS r".:r I·IL-
1. Shrring the P:LStry cream as it comes to a boil.
2. Folding butter into the cooked pastry crelllll,
Sabayoll SJir.lyon Cli. z(lbagliolle) is :1 foamy, stirred custard sallce made by whisking eggs. sugar and wine ovcr low hcaL The egg proteins coagulate, thickening the mixture, while the whisking incorporates air to make it light and fluffy , l"SUJl1y a sweet winc is used: marsala and champagne are the most JXlpular
choices. The mi.xture can be served warm, or il can be dlilled and lightened with cream or whipped egg whites. Sabayon may be served alone or as a \luce or topping with fruit or p:lstries such as spongecake or Jad)'fingers. ~bipped
PRocEDURE fOR PREPARING SAHAYON
I. Combine egg yolks, sugar :md wine in the top of a double boiler. 1. Place (he double boiler over low heal and whisk constantly until the sauce is foamy and thick enough to form a ribbon when the whisk is lifted.
1043
1044
~,
Cl1AP71iR 34
3. Remove from the heat and serve immediately, or whisk O\'er an ice huh until cool. If allowed to Sit, the hot mixture may separate. 4. Whipped egg whites or whipped cream m:ly be folded imo the cooled saooyon.
= = = = = = '"V" = = = = = = RECIPE 34.3
ClIMfPAGNE SABAYON Yield : I qt. (I It) Egg yolks Granulated sugar Sa lt Marsala wine Dry champagne Heavy cream (optional)
8
8
4 oz. 1/4 ISp. 2 oz. 6 oz. Soz.
120 g 1m]
60 Ill] 180ml 225 m]
1. Combine the egg yolks, sugar and 501]t in a stainless steel bowl. 2. Add the mars..1!a and champagne to the egg mixture. 3. Place the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water. Whisk I'igoou until the sauce is thick and pale }'ellow, approximately 10 minutes..~ immediately. TIle thickened sab.1yon.
4. To prepare a saba yon mousseline, place the bowl of sabayon over Jl1 bath and continue whisking umil completely cold. Whip the cream 10 peaks and fold i1 imo the cold sab:tyon. Approximate values per I·H ...m. (22·W servmg; CaloriC!! 50, Total rat 4 g. SaIUr;lted fat ! lI./loab tcrol 60 mg, Sodium 25 mg, Total carbo hr dr;lles 4 8. Protein I g, Vitamin A 6610
Baked Custards A baked custard is based on the Slime principle as a stirred custard: A ~ thickens by the coagulation of egg proteins. However, with
Creme Cammel Creme caramel, creme renversee and flan all refer to an egg custard Imoo o\'er a layer of caramelized sug:tr and invened for service. The caramelizoo sugar produces a golden-brown surface on the invened custard and a It.: caramel sauce.
CUSTARDS, CREW$, FROZEN DF$BR1S AND DESSBRT StlUCES
~,
1045
~ ============= RECIPE 34.4
TOFFEE GuwIEL
FIAN
Yield: 10 6-oz. (lSO-m!) Ramekins Granulated sugar '«'>ater Milk Heavy cream Cinnamon sticks Vanilla bean, split 'IX'hole eggs Egg yolks Brown sugar Molasses Amareno liqueur I.
l
j
4.
5. ,
7.
lib. 4 oz. 8 oz. 24 oz. 24 oz.
600g 250 ml 750 ml 750 ml
2
2
1 8
1 8 4 180 g 15 ml 30 ml
4 6 oz. I l1)sp. 2 Thsp.
Combine the gra nulated sugar with the water in a small heavy sa ucepan; bring to a boil. Cook until the sugar reaches a deep golden brown. Immediately pour about 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) of the sugar into each of the lightly greased ramekins. Tilt each ramekin to spread the caramel c\·enly along the bottom. Arrange the ramekins in a 2-inch-deep hotel pan and set aside. Combine the milk, cream, cinnamOn sticks and vanilla bean in a large saucep::m. Bring just to a boil, cover and remove from the heat. Allow this mixlUre to steep for about 30 minutes. Stttp-to !()(Ikfood hi a boIliquid in order to Whisk the eggs, egg yolks, brown sugar, molasses and amaretto together in either exlracl i1s jlo/'Or or sofJetI i1s Iex/ure. a large bowl. Uncover the milk mixture and rerurn it to the sto\'e tOp. Bring just to a boil. Temper the egg-and-sugar mixture with approximately one third of the hot milk. Whisk in the remaining hot milk. Strain the custard through a fine mesh strainer. Pour into the caramel-lined ramckins, filling to just below the rim. Pour enough warm w
'qloxunatc vatues per serving: Cak)ries 670. Total fat 33 g. Satun.ted fat 19 g. Cholesterol 355 mg. \odium 120 mg, Total carbohydn.tt:!ii 82 g. Protein 10 g. Vitamin A 40%, Cakium 20%
Cbeesecake Oleesecakes, which are almost lIS old as weslern Civilization, have undergone roan)' changes and variations since the ancient Greeks devised the fi rst known R:Cipe. Americans revolutionized the dessen with the development of cream d!eese in [872. Cheesecake is a baked custard th:lt contains a smooth cheese, usually a soft, fresh chee$C such as cream, ricoHa, cOllage or farmer cheese. A cheesecake
1046
CIW'lfJi 34
may be prepared without a CruSI, or it may havc a base or sides of m:r dough. cookie crumbs, ground nlitS or spongecake. The fi lling can be!htt and rich (New York style) or light and fluffy (Italian style). Fruit. nulS and &. \'Ofings may also be included in the filling. Cheesecakes are often topped' fruit or sour cream glaze. Recipes for both dense and light cheesecakes alta the end of this chapter. Some cheesecakes are unbaked and rely on gelatin for thickening: m are frozen. 111ese arc nOt really custards, however. but are more similartolfr chiffons or mousses discussed later.
Bread Pudding Bread pudding is :1 home-style
Souffles A souffle is made with a custard base that is lightened with whipped erg whites and then b.lked. l1le air in the egg whili!s expands to create 3 tiglt fluffy texture and tall rise. A souffle is nOt as stable as a C'Jke or other ptP try item, however. and will collapse \'ery quickly when remm'ed from ~ oven. Souffles can be prepared in a wide variety of sweet and savo1)' flamrs. nr flavorings can be incorporated il1lo the CUSt:lrd, as in the following reOpl' ..u. ternatively, an unfLlvored pastry cre:lm can be used as the base: the liqueur_ (mil or chocolate are then added to each portion separately_ When making a souffle, the custard base and egg whites should be 3t 100II temperature. First, the egg whites will whip to a better volume, and second. ~ the base is approximately the sa me temperature as the egg whiles, the 1\\-0 mixtures can be more easily incorporated, The egg whites are whipped IO.llifl peaks with a portion of the sugar for stability. The whipped egg whites are then gemly folded into the base immediately before baking. A souffle is baked in a straight-sided mold or individual rJmekin. The flnished souffle should be puffy with a lightly browned tOp. It should rise ",-ell above the rim of the baking dish. A souffle must be served immedi3te~·. refore it collapses. A waml custard sauce (creme anglaise) is often se,,'ed 1SMI accompaniment to ,I sweet souffle. A frozen souffle is not a tme soume. Rather, it is a creamy custard millUre thickened with gelatin, lightened with whipped egg whites or whipped cream and placed in a souffle dish wrapped with a tall paper collar. 'fhen the paper is removed, the mixture looks as if it has risen above the mokllile a hot souffle.
PROCEDURE 'OR PREPARING BAKF.D
Soum>.s
1. Butter the mold or ramekins and dust with granulated sugar. Preheatthe oven to approximately 42;oF (220°C). 2. Prepare the custard base. Add flavorings as desired ,
CusrARDS, CREA:lfS, FROZEN DlNER1S AND DINERT StUCFS
, 1047
3. \\:''hip the egg whites and sugar (0 stiff peaks. Fold the whipiX-"d egg whites imo the base. t Pour the mixture into the prepared mold or I
immediately.
'V"" = = = = = = = RECIPE 345
CHOCOlATE SOUFFLEs Yield: 8 Servings Orange juice
! pI.
Eggs. sep;lr:ned Grnnubtcd sugar All-purpose flour Bittersweet chocolate. chopped fine Ornnge liqueur Butter. melted Granulated SUg.1f
8 4 oz. 3 oz. 80z. 2 oz. :IS needed :IS needed
500 Illi 8 120 g
90S 225 g 60 ml as needed as needed J. Folding the whipped egg whites
I. To prep:ue the base, heat (he omnge juice to lukewarm in a heavy
into the chocolate base. saucepan. 1. Whisk the egg yolks with 3 ounces (90 gl
/048 '""" CHAm~ 34
CREAMS .n-, Creams CFr. cremes) include light, fluffy or creamy-textured dessen items lrude with whipped egg whites or cream. Some, such as Bavarian creams and chiffons, are thickened with gelatin. Others, such as mousses and crenxs Chantilly, are softer and lighter. The success of all , however, depends 00 properly whipping and incorporating egg whites or heavy cream. You should review the material on whipping cream found in Chapler a Dairy Produces, Note that whipping cream has a butterfat content of ~ When preparing any whipped cream, be sure that the crcam, the mixing bo~i
and all utensils are well chilled and dean. A warm bowl can melt the buner· fat , destroying the texture of the cream. Properly whipped cream should [n. crease two to th ree times in volume,
Creme Chantilly Creme Chantilly is simply heavy cream whipped to soft peaks and f1arored with sugar and vanilla. It can be used for garnishing pastry or dessert items, oc it can be folded into cooled custard or pastry cream and used as a com(Xlnern in a pastry. When making creme Chantilly, the vanilla extract and sugar should be added after the cream begins to thicken. Either granulated or powdered sugar may be used; there are advantages and disadvantages to both. Granulated sugar assists in forming a better foam than powdered sugar, but it may cause the cream to feel gritty. Powdered sugar dissolves more quickly and c0mpletely than granulated sugar, but does nothing to assist with fooming. Whichever sugar is used, it should be added just before the whipping is c0mplete to avoid interfering with the cream's volume and stability.
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 34.6
CREME CHANTILLY (CHANTILLY CREMf) Yield: 2 to 2 1/2 ql. (2 to 2 1/2 It) Heavy cream, chilled Powdered sugar Vanilla extract
1 qt.
lit
3 oz.
90g 10 ml
2 (Sp.
1. Place the cream in a chilled mixing bowl. Using a balloon whisk, whiskthf cream until slightly thickened.
Properly whipped Creme Chantilly
2. Add the sugar and vanilla and continue whisking to the desired consi). teney. The cream should be smooth and light, not grainy. Do not ol·er· whip. 3 . Creme Chantilly may be stored in the refrigerator for several hours. If the cream begins to soften, gently rewhip as necessary. Approximate values per l-n ...(>z. (l7-g) serving: Calories 60, Total fat 6 g, Saturated fat 3S g. Ch0lesterol 20 mg, Sodium 5 mg, To tal carbohydrates 2 g, Protein 0 g
Bavarian Cream A Bavarian cream (Fr. bavarois) is prepared by first thickening custard saure with gelatin, then folding in whipped cream. The final product is poured into a mold and chilled until firm e nough to unmold . and slice. Although a B.mr-
CUSfARDS, CREA,lIS. FROZEN DESSERTS AND DESSERT £IUCES
tin (remu ClIO be molded into individual servings, it is most often poured into round mold tined with spongecake or lad}rftngers to create the classic dessert known as a charlotte. &I\'arians can be flavored by adding chocolate, pUrl.>ed fruit , chopped nuts, t'XIradS or liquors to the custard s.1.uce !).1SC. Layers of fruit or liquor-soaked spongecake can also be added for fla\'or and texture. When thickening a dessen cream with gelatin, it is importanl10 use the correct amount of gekltin . If not enough gelatin is used or it is not incorporated rompletely, the cream wi1l not become firm enough to unmold. If too much gelatin is usc:.-'d , the cream will be tough and rubbery. The recipes given here use sheet gelatin, although an equal amount by weight of granulated gelatin can be substituted. Refer \0 Chapter 29, Principles of the Bakeshop, for inform:ltion on using gelatin.
l
PROCEDURE FOI~ PREPARING BAVARIAN CREAMS 1. Prepare a custard sauce of the desired flavor. 2. While the cust:lrd sauce is still quite warm, stir in softened gelatin. Make sure the gelatin is completely incorporated. j. Chill the custard until :Ilmostthickened, then fold in the whipped cream. 4. Pour the Ba\'arian into a mold or charlotte form. Chill until sct.
~
1049
== ~ == ClWUOrrE, SWEET CilARLom The origin:t] charlotte was created during the 18th centlll)' and named for the lIife of King George III of England. II consisted of
an apple compote baked in a round mold lined \lith loost slices. II fC'» decades laler, the great French chef C::u-erne adqJted the name but altered ~le concept in ~nse to a kitchen disaster. When preparing a grand banquet for King Louis XVIII, he fOWld that his gel:llin supply was insufficient for the B::II'urian creams he was making, so Careme ste:ldied the sides of his sagging desserts with ladyfingers. TIle result became kr10"11 as charlotte nlSSe, probably due 10 the reigning fad for an~'hing Russian. Afancier I'eTSioll. knO\\n as charlotte royale. is made with pin· wheels or layers of spongecake and jam instead of ladyfingers. 11M! filling for either should be a clas~ic Bav:lJ':ian cream.
RECI PE 34.7
FRESH FRUIT BAVARIAN Yield: 1 l-ql. (J -It) Mold Fresh fruit such as 2 kiwis, I banana or l/2 pint (225 m]) raspberries, blueberries or wild Honey I l1)sp. Kirsch or bJ'3nd}' 2 l1)sp. Egg yolks 4 Granulated sugar 4 oz. _ 8~ Vanilla bean 1/2 Gel3lin, softened l/2 oz. Hea\}' cream 12 oz.
slJ'3wberries 15 Illl 30 ml 4 120 g ~~
1/2 14 g 340 ml
1. Ughtly spray the bonom of a I-quart (I-liter) mold with pan release spmy.
If a smooth mold is being used, line it with a sheel of plastic WFolP, allowing the wrap to extend beyond the mold's edges. 1 Peel and thinly stice the fruit if necessary. Mix the honey and kirsch ;lnd pour over the fruit. Chill while preparing the Il.1.varian cream. j. Prepare a vaniJ!a Cllstard S:lllce using the yolks, Sligar, milk and \'ani1la. Remo\·e from the saucepan. 4. Add softened gelatin to the hOi cllstard. Chill until thick, but do not allow the custard to set. j. Whip Ihe cream until stiff llOd fold it into the chilled and thickened custard. Pour about one third of this mixture (the Bavarian cream) into the mold. ArrJnge one half of the fmit on top. Pour half of the remaining Bavarian cream on top of the fruit and lOp wilh the remaining fruit. Fill COIl/il/l/ed
I. Adding gelatin to the Cllstard !).1SC.
2. Folding in the whipped egg whites.
1050
CIIAPfhW 34 with the rest of the Bavarian cream. Chill umil completely set, aplJflJl" m,lIel}' 2 hours. 6. Unmold onto a serving dish. Garnish the lap with additional fruit ml whipped cream as desired. Gelatin may separate in the freezer, so quick chilling is not rea:mmended. Products made with gel:.tin keep well for 1-2 days but stiffen \lib age. NOTE:
VARlATIOX: Charlotte-line a 1- to 1 1I2-quan (1- to 1.5-liter) charlotte odI with ladyfingers (Recipe 33.23) before filling with layers of fruit and Balo.rim cream. Invert onto a serving platter when firm and garnish with whiJ¥d cream.
Approximate l':llues jX:T 3';"<)7,. ( I05.g) serving: Calo ries 230. Total fat 15 g. Saturated fat 9 g.Q. lesterol 13; mg. Sodium 30 mg, Total carbo hyd ra tcs 19 g, I'roteln 3 g, Vitamin A 20%, \iuiI C 2'"
Chiffon A chiffon is similar to a Bavarian except that Wllipped egg whites insteadd whipped cream are folded into the thickened b.1se. The base may be a C\ISJ!!I or a fruit mixture thickened with cornsta rch. Although a chiffon ma)" ~ molded like a Bavarian, it is most often used as a pie or tart filling.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING ClIIFFONS 1. Prepare the base, which is usu:llly a custard or a fruit mix(Ure thickened with cornstarch. 2. Add gelatin to the warm base. 3. Fold in whipped egg whites. 4. Pour into a mold or pie shell and chill.
RECIPE 34.8
lillIE CHIFFON Yield: 1 100in. C25-cm) Pie or 8 Servings Granulmed gelatin Water Granulated sugar Fresh lime juice lime zest Eggs, separated
1/4 oz. 7 oz.
7g 150 ml 210 g
3 oz.
90ml
5 oz. 1 Thsp.
15 ml
4
4
1. Soften the gelatin in I ounce (30 gr.lms) of the water. 2. Combine 4 ounces (120 grams) of the sligar, the remaining water. lime juice, zest and egg yolks in a bowl over a pan of simmering water.
CUSl'AIWS, CREAMS, FROZEN DESSFJ?lS AND D/NF.KT SI.UCfS ~
Whisk the egg-and-Hme mixture lOgL1her vigorously until it begins to thicken. Add the softened gelatin and continue whipping until very thick and fo.1my. 4. Remove from the heat, cover and refrigerJte until cool and as thick as whipping cream. 5. Meanwhile, whip the egg whites to soft peaks. Whip in the remaining sugar (3 ounces/90 gr.lms) and continue whipping until stiff but not dry. 6. Fold thc whipped egg whites into thc egg-and-lime mixture. Pour into a prep:tred pie crust or serving dishes and chill for several hours, until firm. j,
\'mmONS: LemOIl Ch!ffon-Substitute lemon juice and lemon zest for the lime juice and zest. Omllge Ch!.t101Hubstitute orange juice for the lime juice and for 4 ounces (120 grams) of the water. Substitute orange zest for the lime zest. Reduce the amount of sugar in the egg yolk mixture 1O I ounce (30 grams).
Approltun:uc l'alucs per scl\ing: Catories 140. TOIaI fat 2.5 g, Saturated fat I g. Choleste rol lOS mg, Sodium 35 mg, TOllil carbohydn.tes 26 g, Protei n 4 g, O aims-low fat; low S3tUrlUed fat; low ",""m
MOl/sse The term mOl/sse applies to an assortment of dessert creams not easily classified elscwhere. A mousse is similar to a Bavarian or chiffon in that it is lightened with whipped cream, whipped egg whites or both. A mousse is generaUy softer than these OIher products, however, and only occasionally contains a small amount of gelatin. A mousse is generally too soft 1O mold. A mousse may be served alone as a dessert or used as a filling in cakes or p:tsuy items. Sweet mousses can be based on a custard sauce, melted chocohte or pureed fruit.
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING Moussl~
1. Prep:uc the base, which is usually a custard sauce, melted chocolate or pureed fmit. 1. If gelatin is used, il is softened first. then dissolved in the wam1 base. j, Fold in whipped egg whites, if used. If the base is slightly warm when the egg whites arc added. their proteins will coagulate making Ihe mousse finner :tnd more stable.
TABU!
34. 1
J'r.,
CRF.AM (CREME) COMPONE''lS with ~
Then fold in:
For a:
Begin with a base of:
Thicken
B:w:lrian Man
Custard CUSt.1rd or starch-thickened fruit Melted chocolate, puri.'Cd fruit or cuSt3rd
Gelatin Gelatin
'I);'hipped cream
NOthing or gelatin
Whipped cream, whipped egg whites or both
.\Iou..o;sc
Whipped egg whiles
1051
~ == CO,WEN/EtKE PRODUCTS
Commercially prepared pov.'(\ers and mixes can be used to make a wide assortment of puddings, custards, mo~. gelatin desserts and creams. Although ~lese mixes are no!. recommended for fine dining facilities, pastry cooks in mass feeding institutions such as schools and hospitals base much of their dessert preparation on them. The advantages are speed, cost, quality control and the ability to use semi·skilled assistants. Packaged mixes are simply prepared ru:cording to the directions provided by the manufacturer, then portioned for service. The pastry cook can often Improve on ~le final product by adding I'rTIipped cream, fruit or an appropriate garnish. A<. Vtith other con\'enience products, quality varies from merely adequate to \'el)' good. Sample and experiment with 5e\ocral brands to select the best for your operation.
1052
,~.
CHAPTER 34 4. Allow the mixture to cool completely, then fold in whipped cream, if used Note that the egg whites are folded in before any whipped cream. Although the egg whites may deflate somewhat during folding, if the crem is added first it may become overwhipped when the egg whites are adcled. creating a grainy or coarse product.
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 34.9
CLASSIC CHOCOLATE MOUSSE Yield: 1 1/2 to 2 qt. (l.S to 2 It) Bittersweet chocolate Unsalted butter Egg yolks Egg whites Granulated sugar Heavy cream
15 oz. 9 oz. 7
440 g 280 g 7
11
11
2 1/2 oz. 8 oz.
70 g 2S0 ml
1. Melt the chocolate and butter in a double boiler over low heat. Stir wd no lumps remain. 2, Allow the mixture to cool slightly, then whisk in the egg yolks one at a time. 3. Beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Slowly beat in the sugar an:! continue beating until stiff peaks fonn. Fold the whipped egg whites irro the chocolate mixture. 4. Whip the cream to soft peaks. Allow the mousse to cool, then fold in tIr whipped cream. Make sure no streaks of egg white or cream remain. 5, Spoon the mousse into serving bowls or chill completely and pipe if10 bowls or baked tanlet shells. The mousse may be used as a cake or pas!lJ" filling. ApprO)(imate values per 3-oz (92-g) serving: Calories 370, Total fat 31 g, Saturated fat 18 g, c:.. lesterol 215 mg, Sodium ;0 mg. TOlal carbohydratcs 16 g, Protein 7 g, Vitamin A 25%
FROZEN DESSERTS .n-, Frozen desserts include ice cream and gelato and dessellS assembled with itt cream such as baked Alaska, bombes and parfaits. Frozen fruit purees, knO'Ol\ as sorbets and sherbets, are also induded in this category. Still-frozen desserts, known as semifreddi, are made from custards or mousses that are frozen without churning. When making any frozen mixture, remember that cold dulls flavors. Although perfect at room temperature, flavors seem weaker when the mixrure ~ cold. Thus, it may be necessary to oversweeten or overflavor creams or {ll$o lards that will be frozen for senrice. Allhough liquors and liqueurs are commoo fl avoring ingredients, alcohol drastically lowers a liquid mixture's freezing poim. Too much alcohol will prevent the mixture from freezing; thus 311)' liqueurs or liquors must be used in moderation.
CllSfARDS, CRFA4IS, FROZEN DESSF..RTS AND DESSERT SWCES ~
========= ~
1053
=========
ICE CRE..oI: FRO." ANOEhT C/II,VA. TO DouBLE FlJD6E BROWNIE CIIOCOlATE C/IIP
wlm COOKIE DoUGH AND Ta4STED AL.,OND SUVERS
Despite claims to the conlr:U")~ it is impossible 10 identify anyone country as having in· renled ice cream. More Hkely, it \\'llS im'elUOO in seI'ff:l.! places around the \\urld at various times. Early ancestors c:i today's ice creams were flavored water ices, ""TIich hal'e been popular in Otina since prehistoric times. 'nley have also been popular in the Mediterranean and Middle East since the Golden Age of Greece. [n fact, Alexander the Great had a penchant for winenanued ices, made with ice brought down from the mountains by runners. TIle Roman Emperor Nero served his guests mixtures of fruil aushfd 'With snow :Uld honey. The Saracens brooglu !heir knOlliedge c:i making nalured ices lIIith them \\nen they migrated to Sicily in !he 9th century. And 12th-cefllury Crusaders rewmed to lIIl5tem Europe 'With memories of \1OfJe Eastern sherbets.
lbe Italians are said to hal-e deI-eloped gelato from a recipe brought back from China by Marco Polo in the 13th century. Somehow the dish spread to England by the 15th century, where it was recorded that King Henry V served it al his coronation banquet. Catherine de Medici brougllt the re<:ipe with her . . .'hen she married the future king of France in IH3. A different flavor was se,,-ed during each of the 34 days of their marriage festivities. Ice Cre'.lJll was first sem~d to the public in Paris during the late 17th century. 11 was available at fashionable cafes serving another !'IeIJ,' treat: coffee. French chefs Quickly developed many elaborate desserts using ice creams, including bombes, coupes and parlaits. M3J1Y of this country's founders-Thomas jefferson, Alexander Hamilton, James 3J1d Dolly Madison-were confinned ice cream addicts.
George Washington spent more man S2(1(), a l-ery princel)' sum, for ice cream during the summer of 1790. The mech3J1ized ice cream freezer 11'35 inl-ented in 1846, setting the Stage for mass production and \\ide availability. By the late 19th century. ice cream parlors were popular gathering places. (Many of today's ice cream parlors take their dlkor from "Gay Nineties" motifs.) [)€spite the disappearance of most ice cream wagons, soda fountains :Uld lunch counters, all of which were popular ice cream purveyors for much of the 20th century, ice cream sales have re-er \\'aned. Today. more than 80% of all ice cream is sold in supeml3lkets or COIl\-enience stores. The public's demand for high-fa~ homemade-style "super-premium" ice creams \\ith rich and often~laborate flamr col1lbinatiOllS 51\0\\'5 no sign of declining.
Ice Cream and Gelato Ice cream and gelato are custards that are churned during freezing. TIley can be flavored with a seemingly endless variety of fruits, nuts, extracts, liqueurs and the like. Gelato is an Italian-style ice cream. It is denser than American~'Ie products because less air is incorporated during churning. The USDA requires thal products Illbeled "ice cream' contain not less than 11m milk fal and 20% milk solids, and have no more than 50% overrun. "Ice milk" refers 10 products that do not meet the standards for ice cream. Low-fat products made without cream or egg yolks are also available for the calorie conscious. Frozen yogun uses yogun as its base. Although touted as a nutritious subslirute for ice crcam, frozen yogun may have whole milk or cream added for richness and smoothness. One hallmark of good ice cream and gelato is smoothness. TIle icc crystals that would nomlally foml during freezing can be avoided by constant stirring or churning. Churning, usually accomplished mechanically, also incorporates air into the product. The air causes the mixture to expand. Gelato has little incorporated air. Good-quality ice creams and sorbets have enough air to make them light; inferior products often contain overrun. The difference becomes OOl'ious when equal volumes are weighed. Many food service operations use ice cream makers that have internal freezing units 10 chill the mixture while churning it. Most commercial machines are suitable for churning either ice cream or sorbet. Follow the manufacturer's directions for using and cleaning any ice cream maker.
OvclTUn-lbe(l/1/01l1l1 of(lir chllmetl il/loa1/ ireCTffiIll.
1054
.,..
CIW'l'ER 34
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING ICE CREAMS 1. Place the milk andlor cream in a heavy saucepan. used, it may be added at this time. 2. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a mixing bowl. j. Bring the liquid just to a boil. Temper the egg mixture with approxima~ one third of the hot liquid. 4. Pour the tempered eggs into the remaining hot liquid and return the mixr:ure to the heat. 5. Cook, stirring constantly, until warm . 6. Remove the cooked custard 5.1UCC from the hot saucepan immediately. If left in the hot saucepan, it will overcook. Flavorings may be added at this time. 7. Cool the cooked custard sauce over an ice bath. Store covered and refrigerated until ready to process. 8. Process according to the machine manufacture r's directions.
RECIPE 34.10
ICE CREM! BASE Yield: 2 qt. (2 II)
Whole milk Heavy cream Vanilla bean, optional Egg yolks Granulated sugar
I 1/2 Ql. I pt.
1;00 mI
;00 ml
1
1
16
16
20 oz.
600g
1. Combine the milk and cream in :1 heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. AO:l the vanilla bean if desired. 2. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a mixing bowl. 3. Temper the eggs with one third of the hot milk. Return the egg mixture to the saucepan. 4. Cook over medium heat unt il slightly thickened. Pour through a fine ~h strainer into a clean bowl. 5. Chill the cooked custard 5.1UCe completely before processing,
VARIATIOl's: Chocolate-Add approximately 9 ounces (250 grams) of find)" chopped bitlersweet chocolate per quart (lite r) of ice cream base. Add the chocolate to the hot mixr:ure after it has been strained. Stir until complt'l~· melted. Cappllcd'io-Steep the hQ{ milk and cream with the vanilla bean and H cinnamon sticks. After the ice cream base is made, Slir in 2 tablespoons!Jl milliliters) coffee extract. Brandied Chen),-Drain the liquid from one l6-ounce (;OO-gram) can ci tart, pitted cherries. Soak the cherries in 3 tablespoons (45 milliliters) brm.l!·, Prepare the ice cream base as direCled, omiuing the vanilla bean. Add !be brandy-soaked cherries to the cooled custard before processing. ApPl"(lximate vailles per 6-n.-oz. (ItK).ml) 5t:rYing: Calo ries }70. Total fat 20 g. Sarnr:lled &:1 11 ~ Cho lesterol 270 mg, Sodillm 65 mg. Total carboh)'dratcs 4t g, Protem 7 g, Vitamin A 2~
CUSTARDS, CR£A,I/S, FROl.EN DES5ERTS AND DES5ERT &lUCES
~.
1055
Sherbets and Sorbets Sherbet and sorbet are frozen mixtures of fruit juice or fruit puree. Sherbet contains milk and/or egg yolks for creaminess; sorbet contains neither. Sorbet can be prepared in a wide variety of fruit Cand even some vegetable) flawrs; it is often flavored with an alcoholic beverage. It is served as a first course, a palate refresher between courses or a dessert. Because of its milk content, sherbet tends to be richer than a sorbet, so it is generally reserved for
RECIPE 34. 11
GRAPEFRUIT SORBET Yield: I 1/2 qL (I.5 It)
Fresh grapefruit juice Granulated sligar
1 qt. 8 oz.
1 II
250 g
1. Combine the juice and sugar. 2 Process in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer'S directions. J. Pack into a clean container and freeze until fi rm. Approximate \"~lu("S p.!r }-oz. (90-g) ~,",'ing, Cato ries 94. Total f3t 0 g. SalUrntoo fat 0 g. Choles. 0 mil. Sodium I mg. Tm31c3rbohrdrnto:s 23 g. Protein '; g. Vitamin C 36%. Clalnu-oo fat; 00 dtolest<'TOl; I'cry low !;odium; low (':1loric
!frO(
Sund:W- (1great (md 8OfJe)' ctmrocti(J11 of ire cr('(lll/, SflUces (beIjudge, marshmallow and
CIIrtlmei.jor l'-tIJm/lle), toppings (1IIlts, c(lndies,
SWing Suggestions for Ice Creflms find Sorbets
(/!tdjres/) jnlillQ name a jew) alld II'IJipped cream.
Ice creams and sorbets arc usually served by the scoop, often in cookie cones. Or they can be served :IS sundaes. More formal presentations include baked Maska, bombes, coupes and parfaits.
Baked Alas ka-tee crealll set on ala)," if :pongerulle and tllcastd ill meringlle. then bakell IInlilthe meringlle is urmn and golden.
Still-Frozen Desserts
Bombe---Juo or more flatfJl'S of tee CTMIII. or tee crealll and sberbd shaped in a spbericaJ 1II00d;
eoch fltlt'or is II st'{Iar(l/e layer lhat jorms the sheil
Still-frozen desserts (It. semi/ret/{it) are made with frozen mousse, custard or for the 'lex( flat'Or. ataffi. Layers of spongecake and/or frui t may be added for flavor and texture. Coupe-ia CTf(II1/ sm'td uilh IIfruit 1cpping. Because these mixtures are frozen without churning, air must be incorporated Parr3il-tee CTf(II1/ smwl;/1 a kmg, slender by folding in rehllively large amountS of whipped cream or meringue. The air glass uith allem(lling la)l!rS if loWing or $(lila!. helps keep the mixture smQO{h and preventS it from becoming too hard. StillMarquis-(Ijroztll mO/lSSle·/ike dessert, ustmlly frozen desserts develop ice crystals quicker than churned products, so Ihey choroJate. lend to have a shaner shelf life than ice creams or sorbets. Still-frozen productS include frozen souffles, marquis, mousses and Neapo Utan- a llJree·layered loaj or wile of ice emllll; Wlch layer is 1/ different flavor and II difneapolitans . nle Chocolate Hazelnut Marquis recipe at the end of this chap- jerent rolor, (/ 1J1,;C(/1 rombillfltitm being cJxx:oler (Recipe 34.34) is an example of a still-frozen dessert . I({te, I'flllilftl find str(lUV£T'I'J.
1056
CIIAPl>R 34
DESSERT SA UCES .n-, Pastries and desserts are often accompanied by sweet sauces. Dessen 5aliCt' provide flavor and texture :md enhance pl:ilc presentation. Vanilla ('1Jstmf ~lUce (Recipe 34.1) is the principal dessen sauce. It can be flavored and co ored with chocolate, coffee extract, liquor or fntil compound as desired. Cldll dessert sauces include fn!il purees, caramel sauce and chocolate syrup.
Fruit Purees Many types of fruit can be pureed for dessert sauces: Strawberries, raspberrie;. blackberries, apricots, mangoes and p:lpayas arc popular choices. They pr0duce thick sauces with st rong flavors and colors. Fresh or individuall)r quid: frozen OQF) fruits are recommended.
Pureed fru it sauces, also known as caulis, can be cooked or uncookt'
RECIPE 34. 12
RASPBERRY SAUCE Yield: I ql. (I It) Raspberries, fresh or IQF Granulated sugar Lemon juice
2 lb.
l ib. I oz.
I kg 500g JQ ml
10 Puree the berries and strain through a fine chinois. 2. Stir in the sugar and lemon juice. Adjust the flavor with :ldditionaJ sugar if necessary.
Raspberry sallee
Approximate \':llllcs per 1-07.. (43·g) "'O[\'ing: Calories 70. Tota l fat 0 g. Saturated fat 0 g. CfloIe!. terol 0 mg, Sodium 0 mg, Tota l carho hr d rates 17 g. I'rotdn 0 II, Claims-fal r!"('"e; 00 salUr.!lOO tr no cholcstcrol: no sodiulll
Caramel Sauce Carame[ sauce is a mixture of Clramel ized sugar and heavy cream. A [iqut'W or citrus juice may be used for added flavor. Review the material on carameliz· ing sugar in Chapter 29, Principles of the Bakeshop. before making caramd S,1Uce.
-v. RECIPE 34. 13
CARAMEL SAUCE Yield: 4 ql.
(4 It)
Granulated sugar Water Lemon juice
4 [b. 8 oz. I pI. 2 oz.
2 kg 500ml
60 Ill!
CUSTARDS, CR&UlS, FROZEN DNER1:,' AND DNERT SAUCES
lleavy cream, room temperature Unsalted butter, cut into pieces
2 ql.
5 oz,
21t l50g
Combine the sugar and water in a large heavy saucepan. Stir (0 moisten the sugar completely. Place the saucepan on the stove top over high hem and bring to a boil. Brush down the sides of the pan with water ;0 remove any sugar granules. 1, When the sugar comes to a boil , add the lemon juice, Do nOt stir the sugar, as this may cause lumping. Continue boiling until the sugar carameliz.es, turning a dark golden brown and producing a rich aroma. j. Remove the saucepan from rhe heat. Gradually add the cream, Be extremely careful, as the hot caramel may splauer. Whisk in the cream to blend. 4, Add the pieces of buner, Stir umil the butter melts completely. If necessary, return the sauce to the stove to reheat enough 10 melt the butter. S. Strain the sauce and cool completely :n room temperature. TIle sauce may Ix! SlQred for several weeks under refrigeration. Stir before using . J,
Cilmmel sauce
.~pproxim:ue I'alucs per I-n.-oz. (33-R) serving: Calo ries t3O. TOial fa! 7 g, Saturated fat 4 g, CholtsIerol l5 mg, Sodlulll 5 mg, Toul carboh r dratl"$ 16 g . .. m ld n 0 g, Vitamin A 8'10
Gboco/ate Syrup Chocolate syrup or sauce can be prepared by adding finely chopped chocolate to warm vanilla custa rd sauce. A darker syrup can also be made with unsweetened chocolate or cocoa powder. Fudge-type sauces, like the one al the end of Ihis chapter (Recipe 34.37), are really just variations on ganache, discussed in Chapler 33, Cakes and Frostings.
- ======== RECI PE 34 .1 4
DARK CHOCOLATE SYRUP Yield: I pI. (500 ml) Cocoa powder Water Granulated sugar Unsalted butler Heavy cream
2 oz.
6Cg
120z,
340 ml 250 g
8 oz. 3 oz. I oz.
9()g
30 ml
1. Mi.x the cocoa powder with just enough water to make a smooth paste. 2 Bring Ihe sugar and remaining water to a boil in a small, heavy saucepan. Immediately add the cocoa paste, whisking until smooth. j. Simmer for 15 minutes, stirring constantly, then remove from lhe he,ll. f. Stir the butter and cream into the warm cocoa mi.xlUrc. Serve warm or at room tempemture, .Ijlproxim~{e \"JhK'S rer I-n.-Qz. (25·g) 5ClVing: Calories 120, Total fat 6 g, Salll r:llcd fat 3 g, ChoI$m)l 15 mg, SodiulD 0 mg, Total carbohydratcs 16 g. Proleln t g, Vi tamin A 6%
Dark clJocoltlte s)'rllp
105 7
1058 '""" CJWY!FJ/ 34
ASSEMBLING DESSERTS .N> As noted previously, many pastries and other dessens arc assembled from t!r baked doughs discussed in Chapter 32, Pies, Pastries and Cookies; Ihe caktI. icings and glazes discussed in Chapler 33, Cakes and Frostings; and IIr creams, custards and other products discussed in this chapter. r-ohny of 11ft dessens arc classic presentations requiring the precise arrangement of specifK components. Formulas for some of these dessens are found at the end ofw chapters in this pan. But once you begin to master the basic skills presented in these chapters, you can use your creativilY, taste and judgment to cOR these componen(s into a wide selection of new, unique and tempting desseru. Assembled pastries and other dessens generally consist of three prirlcqll components: the base, the filling and the garnish. The base is the dough, Cl\lli or cake product that provides structure and forms the foundation for the 61U! product. The ftlling refers to whatever is used to add navor, texture and 1xxI)' to the fi nal product. The garnish is any glaze, fru it, sauce or accompanirnefj used to complete the dish.
GUJDELINES FOR AssEMBLING DESSERTS
1. There should be a proper blend of complemel}tary and contrasting flal'OIS. For example, pears, red wine and blue cheese go welllogether, as do chocolate and raspberries. Do not combine navors simply for (he sake d Originality, however. 2. There should be a proper blend of complementary and contrasting texmres. For example, criSp puff pastry, soft pastry cream and tender strawberries are combined for a strawberry napoleon. 3. There should be a proper blend of complementary and contrasting colors. For example, a g:trnish of red rJspberries and green mint looks great. 4. Garnishes should not be overly fussy or garish. 5. The base should be Strong enough to hold the filling and garnish withooi collapsing, yet thin or tender enough to cut easily with a fork. 6. ..rrhe fill ing or garnish flL1y cause tbe base to become soft or even soggy. This mayor may nOI be deSirable. [f you wanl a criSp b:lse, assemble the product very close to service. If you want this softening to occur, assemble the product in advance of service. 7. Consider Ihe various storage and keeping qualities of the individual components. [t may be best to assemble or finish some products at service time. S. The final construction should not be so elaborate or fT3gile that it canna be ponioned or served easily or attractively. 9. Consider whether Ihe product would be better prepared as individual ponions or as one large item. This may depend on Ihe desired plate presentation and the ease and speed with which a large product can be (1Jl and ponioned for service.
tifONCLUSION .N> [f paStry doughs are the backbone of dessen preparations, then custards. creams, mousses and the like are the hean. The skills and techniques presented in this chapter are essential to successful pastry production. Man)" of
CUSTARDS. CR&tI~; FROl.EN DFSSf.'R1S AND DESSERT SAUC~
these skills, such as whipping cream or preparing custards, will be useful in other areas of the kitchen as well. Once you have mastered these skills as well as those discussed in Chapter 32, Pies, Pastries and Cookies, and Chapter 33, Cakes and Frostings, you will be able to prepare a wide variety of tempting desserts.
!!2UESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION
,t;'-,
I. Eggs and dairy products are suscepl:ible to bacterial contamination. \,\/hal precautions should be taken to avoid toed-borne illnesses when preparing
2.
3. 4. 5.
6.
custards? ~).:plain why pastry cream should be boiled and why custard sauce should not be boiled. Identify three desserts that are based on a baked custard. Compare a cllIssically prepared I3:Lvarian, chiffon, mousse and souffle. How are they similar? How are they different? Describe the procedure for making a typical still-frozen dessen, What is the purpose of including whipped cream or whipped egg whites? E.'\plain three ways in which sweet sauces can be used in preparing or presenting a dessen.
sJ/'nDlTlONAL CUSTARD, CREAM, FROZEN DESSERT AND DESSERT SAUCE FORMULAS RECIPE 34. 15
LONGCJWfP Nore 7bis dish appears ill/be Cbapter q:.e,liIl8Pbotograph. R1VERIA, AnAoYTA, GA
CbefJack Scboop, CMC
Yield: 1 IO-in. (24-cm) Cake udyfingers (Recipe 33.23) Genoise, em into a 100in. (24-cm) circle Kirsch (cherry brandy) Simple synlp, cool Kirsch i\IOllsse (recipe follows) Fresh raspberries Italian Meringue (Recipe 32.10)
as needed
as needed
1 layer 3 1/2 oz. 1 qt. as needed
1 layer tOO ml
11'1.
as needed
lit as needed 480 ml as needed
1. place a IO-inch (24-centimeter) metal ring that is 1 3/4 inches (4 5 centimeters) high over a cardboard circle. Line the ring completely with ladyfingers. Cut the ladyfingers level with the top of the ring. Place the genoise inside the ring to form the bottom of the cake. COl/til/lied
1059
/06()
CIW17!R 34
2. Prepare a Kirsch-flavored symp by combining the Kirsch and the simpt symp. Bmsh the genoise and the ladyfingers with this syrup. Reserve dr remaining Kirsch-flavored syrup for another use. j. Fill the cake with Kirsch Mousse, sprinkling in raspberries as the cake & filled so that the fmit is evenly distributed throughout. TIle cake should l:t filled to the top of the ring. Smooth the top of the mousse with a • spatula. 4. Freeze the cake until set. 5. Spread a thin layer of Italian mering,le over the mousse. Decorate the ql of the cake with Italian meringue piped through a paStry bag fitted with I Saim-Honore tip. Pipe the meringue from the center, mrving outward I) the edge of the cake. Brown the top of the meringue with a propane [(xm 6. Remove the metal ring and garnish Ihe cake with fresh raspberries. Approximate l':llues ]X'f t/12-.cake serving: Calo rks 690, Total fat 30 g, Saturated fat Ii g, QdII. terol 267 mg, Sodium ]7] mg. Total carbohrdrall"!1 89 g. Protei n to g. Vitamin A 25%. \1tmi1C 35%. Calcium 10%
KIRSCH MOUSSE Yield : 2 q1. (2 kg)
Gelatin Kirsch Heavy cream Pastry cream
9 sheets 3 112 oz. I qt. 35 oz.
9 sheets 100 ml II, I kg
1. Soften the gelalin in ice water. 2. Bring the Kirsch to a simmer over low heat. Remove from the heat, add dr
gelatin and stir until it is completely dissolved.
3. Slir the gelatin mi.xllLre imo the heavy cream, then whip Ihe cream 10.m peaks. 4, Fold the whipped cream into Ihe pastry cream and chill until ready to use Approximate VJlues per serving: Calories 480. Total fat 36 g, Saturated fat 22 g. Cholestmll ltl mg. Sodium 96 mg, Total carboh rdratti 27 g. Protei n 8 R, Vitamin A 29%. Vitamin C il-'
c-.
dUlll
]2%
RECIPE 34. 16
CREAtE BROUE VJNCENT ON CAMELBACK, P1I()E.';IX, Al COO/ Vincenl Gueri(lxlllfl
Yie ld: 3 1/2 qt. (3.5 It)
Heavy cream Vanilla beans, split Egg }'olks Granulated sugar Fresh berries Tulipe Cookie cups (Recipe 32.39) Granulated sugar
2 qt. 2
50
21t 2
50
20 oz.
600g
as needed
as needed
as needed for caramelized topping
CUSTARDS, CREMfS,FROZEN DESJER7S AND DESSERT SAUCES ~
I. Place the cream and the vanilla beans in a large, heavy saucepan. Heal just
to a boil. 2. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together until smooth and well blended. 3. Temper the eggs with one third of the hot cream. Return the egg mixlure to the saucepan and cook, stirring constantly, until very thick. Do nOt allow the custard to boiL 4. Remove from the hem and strain into a clean bowl. Cool over an ice bath, stirring occasionally. 5. To serve, place fresh berries in the bottom of each Tulipe Cookie Clip. Top with several spoonsful of custard. 6. Sprinkle granulated sugar over the tOp of the custard and caramelize with a propane torch. Serve immediately. Approximate I'alues per 5..oz. (lS]-g) serving: Calories 460, Total fat 36 g. Saturated fat 20 g, Chob teTOl 480 mg. Sodium 135 mg, TOtal carbohrdratcs 26 g, Protein 7 g. Vitamin A SO%
====== .......,.., ======= RECIPE 34.17
CmfE CHIBOUST Yield: 1 pI. (;00 ml)
Gelatin Milk Vanilla bean Egg yolks Granulated sugar Cornstllfch Granulated sugar Water Egg whites Cream of tanar
3 sheets 60z.
3 sheets 180ml
1/2 3 31bsp. 21bsp. 6 oz. 31bsp. 3 1/8 tsp.
3 4; ml 30 ml ISO g 45 ml 3 05 ml
112
I. Soak the gehuin in ice water.
2. Prepare a pastry cream by beating the milk and vanilla bean just to a boil. Whisk the- egg yolks, 3 tablespoons (4; milliliters) of sub.... r and the cornstarch together. Temper with one third of the hot milk, then return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over moderate heat until thick. The pastry cream should be allowed to boil briefly to properly gelatinize the starch. Remove the cream from the heat and transfer to a clean bowl. 3. Stir the softened gelatin into the hO{ cream, Cover and set aside but do nO{ chill or allow the cream to set while preparing the Italian meringue. 4. Prepare an Italian meringue using the remaining ingredients. 5. Quickly and thoroughly incorporate one third of the meringue into the warm pastry cream with a spatula. Gently fold in {he remaining meringue. Approximate I'"J IIK'S per ]-ol. (32·g) serving: CaloriC$ 80. Total fat 1.5 g. Saturated fat 0.5 g, ChoiesteTOl 40 mg, Sodium 20 mg. To t(ll carbohydrates 14 g. Protein 3 g, Claims-low fat; low samrolled f~t; wry low sodillm
1061
1062 '""'. CIW1'ER 34 ====== ~. ====== RECIPE 34. 18
CHOCOlATE P OT Au CREME Yield: 8 4-oz. (120-mi) Servings
t.'lilk
500 ml 225 g 210g 5 ml 30 ml 7
1 pI. 8oz, 7oz , 1 ISp.
Bittersweet chocolate Granulated sugar Vanilla extract
2 Thsp. 7
Coffee liqueur
Egg yolks
1. Heat the milk jusl to a simmer. Add the chocolate and sugar. Stir COn51arnl) until the chocOlate melts; do not allow the mixture to ooil. Remove from
the heal and add the vanilla and liqueur. 2. Whisk the egg yolks together, then slowly whisk them into the chocolatr mixture. 3. Po ur the custard into ramekins. Place the I'Jlllckins in a hotel pan and add enough hot water to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins.
4. Bake al 325°F (160°C) until the custards are almost set in the center, approximately 30 minutes . Remove from the wnter bath and refrigct.llt' UIlIil thoroughly chilled. Serve garnished with whipped cream and chocolate shavings. Approxinl3le values per serving: Calories 360. Total fat 16 g. Saturated fat 9 g. Cholesterol 195 fIl#. Sodium 40 mg, Total carboh)'drates 46 g, Protein 6 g. Vitamin A 10%. Calci um 10%
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 34.19
MINT-MILK FlAN WITH ORANGE RITZ·CARI.TON HOTEL,
OUCAGO,
WAn'll
IL
E.reclllive Chef George Bumbaris and ChefSamh Stegner
Yield: 6 Servings
Gelalin Milk, reduced fat Heavy cream Granulated sugar Fmit Garnish (recipe follows) Orange juice, freshly squeezed Fresh mint Honey Wheat Tuile (recipe follows)
I 1/2 sheets 7 oz. I 112 oz. 112 oz. as needed 20 oz. 6 sprigs as needed for
'I
112 sheets
210ml
45 ml 14 g as needed 600 ml 6 sprigs garnish
1. Soak the gelatin sheets in cold water. 2. Heat the milk, cream and sugar. When warm, remove from the heal and add the fresh mint, cover and let Sleep for 20 minutes. Return the cream to
a simmer, then strain through a fine chinoise. 3. Dissolve the gelatin in the warm cream and pour the lllLxture into 6 small bavarian molds, Chill overnight in the refrigerator. 4. To serve, remove the mint nan from the mold and place it in the center ci a large soup plate. Arrange the fmit garnish around the nan.
CUSTARDS, CREMiS, FROZEN DE.'N.R1S AND DfSSERT SAUers
5. To make the orange water, strain the orange juice through a coffee filter. 6. Sprinkle the orange water over the fruit and garnish with fresh mint sprigs and Honey Wheat Tuile . .I.PIXUJUmlIC ''3tues per serving: Calories 187, Total {at l S g, Saturated fat 2 IJl8. Sodium 22 mg, Total carbohrdrates 14 g, Protcin 2S g. Vlumin C SCM
g.
Cholcsterol 12.5
FRUIT GARNISH Yield: 6 Servings
6
Strawberries Blueberries Baby kiwi Blackberries Plum Omnge Raspberries Gooseberries wild strawberries
6
12
12
6
6
12
12 1 1 12
1 12
6 2 oz.
6 60g
/, Cut the strawberries, blueberries, baby kiwi and blackberries in half. 1. CUI the plum and ol"Jnge into segments. 3. Gently toss all the frui ts together. Appmxim.:llt.' v:.llues per serving: Calories 87, Toul (at .5 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Cholcsterol 0 mg. Sodium 4 mg, To tal caroohydntcs 19 g. Protein 1 g, Vlumln C 170%, Claim_low fat; no cOOIotm:Jl; 1'1'1)' low sodium; high fiber
HONEY WHEAT TIJILE Yield: 1 1'1. (SOO ml)
Whole butter Powdered sugar Honey \\7hole wheat flour Ginger, ground Egg whites
2 1/2 oz. 3 1/2 oz. 2 1/2 oz. 3 1/2 oz. I tsp. 3 oz.
7S g 100 ml 75 g 100 ml 5 ml 90 ml
/, Cream the buller and sugar until light. Add the honey. 1. Sift the flour and ginger together, and add to the butter mixture. Slowly inj.
corporate Ihe egg whiles. Spread into the desired shape on a silicone baking sheet and bake a! 350°F (J8(fC) until golden brown, approximately 6 to 8 minutes. l-oz. (zs.g) serving: Calories 98. Total fat 4 g, Saturated fat 2 Sodium 46 mg, TOlal carbohr drates 14 g, Protein 23 g
!.pprOxim~tt.' vatuc~per
Itnlt \0
m~,
g, Choles·
~ ======= RECIPE 34.20
PISTACHIO CITRUS CHEESECAKE Yield: 4 10-in. (2S-cm) C'lkes
Unsalted butter, melted Pistachios, chopped fi ne
as needed 12 oz.
as needed
J60g CO llfinued
, 1063
1064 '"""
CHAmR 34
6 lb. 10 oz.
Cream cheese, softened All-purpose flour Granulated sugar
Eggs
lOOg
2 lb. ; oz. 18
I kg
10 oz. 4 Thsp.
Heavy cream Lemon zest, grated fine Orange zest, grated fine
3.7 kg
3 1/2 oz.
4 Thsp.
18
300 ml 60 ml 60ml
1. Brush the sides and bottoms of four cake pans (do not use springfOOll pans) with melted butler. Coat with an even layer of pistachio nulS. 2. Beal the cream cheese until smooth. Add the flour and sugar and bell 10 incorporate completely. 3. Add the eggs slowly, then Slir in the cream. Stir in the zests and pour the batter into prepared pans. 4. Place the cake pans in a water bath :l!1d bake al 325°F 060Q C) until set
approximately 45 minutes. 5. Cool to room temperature before inverting onto a serving tray or cake
cardboard. The nut crust becomes the top of the cakes. Approximate values per l/ I(kakc serving: calo ries 470, Toul fat 34 g. Sarur.ucd fat 19 g. CboI& lerol 1'Xl mg, Sodium 250 mg, TotaJ carbohydn.tes 32 g, Protein 10 g, Vibmin A 4O'It
============= ~ ============
RECIPE 34.2 1
NEW YORK-STYLE CHEESECAKE Yield: 2 10-in. (25-cm) Cakes
Cream cheese, soflened Cake flour Granulated sugar
Eggs Heavy cream Vanilla extract
31b. 6 oz. 2 oz. 18oz. 8 5 oz. I Thsp.
1.6 kg 60g 540 g 8 150 mI 15ml
1. Beat the cheese until smooth. Beat in the flour and sugar. 2. Blend in the eggs slowly, then add the cream and vanilla . J, Pour the batter into well·bunered springform pans. Bake at 3OQ°F (l5O"C)
until set, approximately 1 10 1 1/2 hours. 4. Cool completely before removing the sides of each pan. Approximate values per I/I().c:J.ke serving: Calories 450, TOlal fat 32 g, Saturate.:! fat 20 g. <:boD terol 180 mg, Sodium 260 mg, Total carbohydr.u es 31 g, J>ro(dn 9 g, Vitamin A 4<M
============= ~ ============ RECIPE 34.22
BLACKBERKY CHIFFON CHEESECAKE CANOE, ATlA.''TA, GA Pastry CIJejMlc/xlelO'CO/mor Yield: 6 Servings
Vegetable oil Powdered sugar
as needed as needed
as needed as needed
CUSJ'ARDs, CR&1Af5, FROZEN DESSER7S AND DESSERT SAUCES ~
Blackberries, fresh or frozen Granulated gelatin Cream cheese, softened Granulated sugar Heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks Phyllo dough Whole butter, melted Powdered sugar Caramelized Peaches (recipe follows)
4 oz. 2 tsp. 12 oz. 6 oz. I pt. 12 oz. as needed as needed
90ml 10 ml
360g ISO g 500ml
360g as needed as needed
1. Prepare 6 metal 3- to 4-inch (7.5- to IO-centimeter) diameter flan rings, by
2.
J.
4.
5. 6.
7. 8.
bntshing the insides lightly with vegetable oil and dusting with powdered sugar. Shake off any excess sugar and place the rings on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Puree the blackberries in a food processor or blender. Strain through a fine chinois and pour into a stainless steel bowl. Sprinkle the gelatin over the blackberry puree. Allow it to soften for 5 minutes, then place the bowl over simmering water and stir until the gclatin dissolves. Remove from the heat and set aside. Combine the cream cheese and sugar in a mixer filled with the paddle attachment. Cream gently, just until the mo.."ture becomes fluffy. Fold the whipped crcam into the cream cheese mixture. Whisk approximately one quarter of the cream cheese mixmre into the blackberry puree. Fold thiS blackberry mL'(ture into the remaining cream cheese mixture. Quickly pour the cheesecake into the prepared flan rings. Fill the rings completely and smooth (he (oPS with a ctke sp:uula. Freeze until completely set, approximately 6 to 8 hours. Shred the phyllo dough by passing it through the spaghetti culler of a pasta machine.
9. ughtly spray the phyllo with a small amount of melted buncr and dust with a bit of powdered sugar. Arrange inlo SL"I( nests and place on a bak· ing sheet lined with parchment paper. 10. Bake the nests in a 350c F (170CC) oven for a few minutes, just until lightly browned. Cool completely and store in an airtight container. 11. To assemble the desserts, remove the cheesecakes from the freeze r and allow them to rcst at room temperature for 5 to 10 minutes. Carefully slide the rings off the cheesecakes. Using an offset spatula, set each cheesecake OntO a phyllo base and arrange on serving plates. Garnish with the Caramelized Peaches . .>,pproxim:ul." l'lIlues per serving: Calories 873. TOlat fat 59 g. ~rur..ued fat 35 g. Cholesterot t87 mg. Sodium 481 mg. TOlal carbohydra!e!J 8) g. Protein to So Vitamin A 4~ \'ilamin C 12'i, Iron 16%
CARAMELIZED PEACHES Yield:
6 servings
Fresh peaches Whole butter Brown sugar Ginger, ground Cinnamon, ground
3 loz. 2 oz.
IT 1T
3 30g
60g 1T 1T Contil/lled
1065
1066 .....
CIfAPI>:JI 34
1. Peel the peaches and cut them inla thick slices. Heat the butter in a b~ Saute pan and add the peaches.
2. Add the sugar and cook until it dissolves. Se:lson 10 i:lste with the spice... Continue to cook the peaches, gentl)' tossing them in the buller and sugar. until softened .
.J. Remove the peaches from the heal and spread them on a paper-lined shet'l pan
10
cool.
"- ==~~=== RECIPE 34.23
BREAD P UDDING WIlli BOURBON SAUCE Yield: 20 Servings
Raisins Brandy Uns.1lted butter, melled White bread, day-old
8 oz.
250 g
4 oz. 2 oz.
60g
Heavy cream
24 oz. 2 qL
720g 2 Ii
Eggs
6
Granulated sugar Vanilla extr.lCt Bourbon Sauce (recipe follows)
I lb. 10 oz. 2 oz. as needed
6 800g 60g
120 ml
as needed
1. Combine the raisins and brandy in a small saucepan. Heat just [ 0 a simmer. cover and sel aside. 2. Use a JX)nion of the buner to thoroughl}' coat a 2-inch (5-{~entirneter) deep
hotel pan. Reserve the remaining butter.
J. Tea r the bread into chunks and place in a large bowl. Pour the cream QI"Cr the bread and set aside until soft. 4. Beat the eggs and sugar until smooth and thick. Add the vanilla , remaining melted butter, raisins and brandy. 5. Toss the egg mixture with the bread gently to blend. Pour into the hoIel pan and bake at 350°F (1SOOC) umit browned and almost sel. apprn'timately 45 minutes. 6. Serve warm wilh 2-3 tablespoons (30-45 milliliters) of the Bourbon Sauce. ApproKim:uc values per .'iCrving: Calories 700. Tom l fat 448. Saturated fat 26 g. Chol~to:rol !'O~ Sodium 260 mg. Total ea.rbQ hyd rate5 67 g. Protein 9 g. Vitamin A 50%. Calci um 10%. Iron 10'1
Unsa lted butter Granulated sugar Eggs Bourbon
BOURBON SAUCE 8 oz. I lb. 2 8 oz.
250 g
500 g 2 250 ml
1. J\lelt the butter; stir in the sugar and eggs and simmer to thicken. 2. Add the bourbon and hold in a warm p13ce for service. Approxim.1tc '':lIUC5 per l-oz. (42-g) .'iCrving, Catories 150. To tal fat 8 ~. Saturated fat S g. lerol 40 mg. Sodium 50 mg. Total carbohrd rate5 19 g. Protein I g. Vitamin A
~
..,--------------......
~=========--=~,.~~===
CUSTARDS, CRWIS, FROZEN DESSER1S AND DESSERT StUCFS ~
1067
============ ~ ============ RECIPE 34.24
CHERRY ClAFOUTI
ClafoutJ-....a wuntr)'-styU! French dersert similar Q quiche, in ulJicb darj cberries art baNd in an egg custom. /Q
Yield: I to-in. (25-cm) Cake D'Jrk cherries, fresh or
canned, pitied Eggs
Milk Granulated sugar Vanilla extrad All-purpose flour Powdered sugar
I lb. 4 12 oz. 2 oz. lisp. 2 oz. as needed
500 g
4 340 ml 60g 5 ml 60g as needed
1. Drain the cherries and pat them completely dry with paper towels. Arrange them evenly on tbe bouom of a buttered lO-inch (25-centimctcr) pan. Do not usc ;I springform pan or removable-bottom tartlet pan. 2 Make the custard by whisking the eggs and milk together. Add the sugar, vanilla and flour and continue whisking until all the lumps are removed. J. Pour the cllstard over the cherries and bake at 325"P (t60"C) for 1 to 1 )/2 hours. The custard should be lightly browned and fi rm to the touch when done. 40 Dust with powdered sugar and serve the dafouti while still warm . .\pJIIIUl/IUtC nlues per 1/10-cakc serving: calorics 170, Total fat 3.5 g. Saturated fat 1.5 g, Cholcs· 1trOI W mg. Sod ium 4.5 mg. Total carbohydralcs 30 g. Protei" 5 g. Vitamin A 6%
============ ~ ============ RECIPE 34.25
WARM CHOCOlATE SOUFFLE MANGO, QlICAOO, IL
Cbe/Sleve Chiappelli
Yield: 6 Servings Bittersweet chocolate Unsalted butter Egg yolks Gt.lnulated sugar All-purpose flour Egg whites
12 oz. 20 oz.
340g
600g
12
12
8 m:. 8 oz.
225 g 225 g
12
12
I. Melt the chocolate and butter in a bowl over a bain marie. 2 Combine the egg yolks and 4 ounces (120 grams) of the sugar and beat at high speed until the yolks are pale and form a thick ribbon. J. When lhe yolks are fully whipped, add the flour and beat at low speed. Slowly pour the melted chocolate into the yolk mixmre. 4. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites at medium speed until soft peaks foml. Slowly add the remaining 4 ounces (120 grams) of sugar and beat on high speed until stiff peaks form. Comi'llled
/ 068 c"\!\.. CHAPTER 34
5. Gently fold the egg whites into Ihe yolk mixture. 6: Pour into 6 buttered and sugared ramekins or souffle molds and 00ke II 4000F-42;oF (200°C-220°C) until done, approximately 12- 1; minutes. Approximate values per ~g: Calories 1S63. Total fa! 118 g. Saturated fa! 61 g. Cbolestttd WI' mg. Sodium 157 mg, Tota l ~rbohrdrales 99 g. Pro!e1n 28 So Vlb min A 11<»6, Iron 3N
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 34.26
WHIm CHOCOIAI1J F'RANCELlCO BAVARIAN Yield: 4 qt. (4 It) Heavy cream White chocolate, chopped Gelatin Frangelico (hazelnut liqueur) Vanilla extract
2 qt. 2 lb.
8 sheets 10 oz. 2 tsp.
2 It I kg 8 sheets 300 ml 10 ml
I . Bring 1 quart (I liter) of cream jllSI to a boil. Immediately pour ol'er the 2.
3. 4.
5. 6:
chopped chocolate. Stir unlil the chocolate rnelts. Place the gelalin in ice water 10 soflen. Gently heat the liqueur jusl 10 a simmer. Remove from the heat and stir ill the gelatin, one softened sheet at a time. Add the gelatin mixture to the chocolate. Stir to blend well. Cool o\'er an ice bath, stirring freq uently. Whip the remaining 1 quart (I liter) of cream with the vanilla to sliff peak> Fold the whipped cream into the chocolate mixture. Chill until rea~' 10 use.
ApproxilJUte values per oktz. (\02·g) SClVing, Calo ries 400, To tal fal 32 g. Saruraled Ta! 21 g. QID. le~uerol 90 mg, Sodium 50 mg, To tal carbohydrates 22 g. Prote in 5 g. VllaJllln A 25%
============= ~ ============
RECIPE 34.27
CHOCOIAI1J CHIFFON PIE Yield: 2 9-in. (22-cm) Pies Gelatin Milk Unsweetened chocolate Granulated sugar Salt Eggs, separated Vanilla extract Crumb-crust pie shells Whipped cream Chocolate shavings
1/2 oz. 20 oz. 4 02. 6 oz. 1/4 ~p.
I; g 600 ml 120 g ISO g
6
6
1m!
2 tsp. 10 ml 2 2 as needed for garnish as needed for garnish
1. Soften the gelatin and set aside. 2. Combine the milk and chocolate in a heavy saucepan and warm o\'er loo~' heat until the chocolate melts.
CUSFARDS, CREAMS, FROZFJI/ DffiERTS AND DES5ERT SAUCES <"2\.
3. Add 4 ounces (120 grams) of the sugar, the sail and the egg yolks. Continue cooking, stirring consl3mly, umil the mixrure thickens. 4. Remove from the heat and add (he gelatin, stirring umil completel}' dissoh·ed. Pour the mixture inlO a bowl and chill until very thick. 5. Whip the egg whites to peaks. Add the vanilla and the remaining sugar and whip to stiff peaks. Fold the whites into the chocolate. 6. Mound the chiffon into the pie shells and chill for several hours before .serving. Garnish with unsweetened whipped cream and chocolate shavings.
son
Approximate '""llues per I/iO-pic ~r\";ng: Calorie'! 210. Total fat 12 g. Saturaled fal 4.5 g. Cho le5-trrol 70 mg. Sodlulli 160 mg. Total carbohrdrau:s 21 g. Prolein 5 g
============ ~ ============ RECIPE 34.28
RAsPBERRY MOUSSE Yield: 1 qt. (1 Ie)
Gelatin Raspberries, pureed Granulated sug:.r Raspberry brandy Heavy cream
6 sheets
6 sheets
12 oz. 3 oz.
360g
21bsp. 8 oz.
lOmi 250 Illi
90g
I. Soflen the gelatin in ice water and set aside. 2 Place the raspberry purL"C, sugar and brandy in a nonreactive saucepan and wanl1 JUSt to dissolve the Sligar. Remove from the heat and strain through 3 fine chinois. j. Add the gelatin , slirring umil it is dissolved. Chillihe mixture until thick but not set. 4. Whip the cream to soft peaks and fold il into the raspberry mixture. Approxim:Hc values per j.·oz. (90-g) serving, Calories lBO. TolaJ fat II g, Saturaled fat 7 g, Choles· ttrol 40 mg, Sodium 15 Illg, Toml carboh)'drall"5 16 g. Protein 5 g, Vitamin A 10%
============ ~ ============ RECIPE 34.29
MIUE-FEUlUE Willi HONEY MOUSSEUNE RIVER lA, Aru.\'TA, GA ChefJack Scboop, CMC Yield: 1 Tan
Puff pastry, 10 in. (24 em) rounds Powdered sugar Puff paslry, for garnishes Fresh strawberries
Honey Mousseline (recipe follows) Fresh raspberries Chocolale garnishes
2 as needed as needed as needed one recipe I c. iO
2 as needed as needed as needed one recipe 225 ml 10 C01lfinlled
1069
1070
(~.
CHAPTER 34 Bake the two rounds of puff pastry at ;OO°F (250°C) until well browIled and done, approximately 12 minutes. Toward the e nd of baking. gener. ously sprinkle them with powdered sugar \0 create a glaze. 2. Cut out lcn, I-inch (2.5-centimeter) circles of puff pastry to be used:i.) decorations on the finished tan. Bake them al 400°F (2000C) until dorr. J.
approximately 10 minutes. Sel aside 10 cool. 3. place a 2-inch (,-centimeter) high metal Cllke ring over a cardboard cirdt. 4. Line the inside of the ring with a strip of plastic wrap or acetate cut 10 lit same size as the ring. 5. Place one of the large puff pastry circles inside the ring 10 form the In· 10m of {be (alt.
6. Cut the strawberries in half le ngthwise. Line the inside of the ring with the 7. S. 9. 10. II.
12.
strawberries so that the CUI side is placed flat against the plastic Strip_ Fill the ring half full with tbe Honey Mousseline. Cover the mousseline with a layer or raspberries and strawberries. Fill the ring almost to the top with Honey Mousseline. Cover the cake with the second circle of puff paStry, glazed side up. Decorate each of the small puff pastry circles with a rosette of Honq' Mousseline and a piped chocolate gllrnish. Arrange the decorated circles on tOP of the cake. Remove the metal cali~ ring and the plastic for service.
Approximate vatues per I/I2-un serving: Calories 426. Tow fat 25 g. Saturated fat II g. ct.Jb. terot In mg, Sodium 244 mg. Toul carbohrdnte5 44 g. Protein 9 g. Vlum;n A '~1WIiI
t""
C'""
HONEY MOUSSELINE Yield: 2 qt. (2 It) Egg whites Honey, cooked to 248°F (J 20°C) Gelatin Milk Vanilla bean Granulated sugar Egg yolks All-purpose flour Cornstarch Whole buner Heavy cream Powdered sugar
2 4 oz. 15 sheets 17 oz. 1 3 1/2 oz. 12 I oz. I oz. 2 1/2 oz. 17 oz. 3 oz.
2 120g 15 sheets 500 ml 1 100 g 12 30g 30g 75 g 500ml 90g
I . Prepare a honey Italian meringue with the egg whites and the hOi hm",.
aside at room temperature until ready to use. Soak the gelatin in cold water until ready 10 use. Prepare a pastry cream by bringing the milk, vanilla bean and granulated sugar to a boil in a large saucepan. Whisk together the egg yolks, flour and cornstarch. Temper the egg yolks with some of the hot milk, then pour the egg mit· ture into the saucepan and continue cook ing until the custard is thick. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and the softened gelatin. Fold the Ital ian meringue inlo the warm pastry cream. SCI
2. 3. 4. 5.
6.
CUSTARDS, CRFhUS, FROZEN DNER7S AND D£S5h'RT SAUCES ~
7. Whip the cream and powdered suga r to stiff peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the pastry cream . .'.pproxima!e l';)lues per 4-m. (l2I).ml) serving: Calories 320. Total fat 20 g. Satul'2!ed fat II g, Qlo. !esterol l]; mg. Sodium 60 mg. Tou.I earboh)'dl'2tt"J 29 g. Protdn 8 g. Vitamin A ]N, Vlwntn
C ""
RECIPE 34.30
CARMIE! I CE
CREAM
Cbefs SII$l1II FOlliger tlnd Ma'.)' SlIe Millikill of Ihe for mer CIIT
RESTAURANT, Los A% ELE'i, CA
Yield: I 112 qt (I 112 It) Ice Cream Half-and-half Heavy cream Egg yolks Granulaled sugar Vanilla eXITact Sour cream Caramel Chunks (recipe follows)
9
600 ml 360 ml 9
6 oz.
IBOg
2 tsp. 8 oz. as needed
225 g
20 oz. 12 oz.
IOmi as needed
1. Combine the half-and-half and heavy cream in a medium· heavy saucepan.
Bring to a boiL 2 Whisk together the egg yolks and sugar umil thick and pale yellow. Pour into the boiling cream and stir to combine. Remove from the heat. j. Add the vanilla and stir. Strain into a large container and chill over an ice balh, slirring occasionally. 4. Stir in Ihe sour cream and pour into an ice cream maker. Process according to the manuf,lcturer's directions. } When the ice cream is done, fold in the reserved Caramel Chunks. Slore in the freezer for 1-2 days. l.pproxim.:l!C I'alues per serving: CaloriC!' 310. Total fat 24 g. Saturated fat 14 g. Chole!ilerol 225 mg,
SodJum 45 mg, To tal carbohr dratl'S 18 g. Protein 5 g. Vitamin A 30%, Claims-low sodium
Granulated sugar \\'later
CARAMEL CHUNKS 8 oz. 4 oz.
225g 120mi
1. Combine the sugar and water in a heavy saucepan. Cook over moderate
heat until the color turns deep brown and the aroma is strong, approxi· mately 10-1; minutes. 2 Immediatel}" :Ind with great care, pour the hot caramel onto a greased sheel pan. Sel aside until cool, then crack into lIZ-inch 0 2-millimeter) pieces . .l.pproXim.a!c '':llu(:s per scl'I'ing: Calo riC!' li D . Total fat 0 g. Satul'2ted fat 0 g. Cholesterol 0 mg, Sodium 0 mg. Total carboh)'dra tcs 28 g. Protei n 0 g. VI13min A 0, C1aims-fa! free; no s;I!u'-Jlcd In; no cholesteroL no sodiulll
1071
1072 ....... ClW'lER 34
====== ~ ====== RECIPE 34.31
SUNDRIED FRUIT COMPOTE WITH HONEY ICE CREMI BISIIOP'S RESTAURANT, VA,'i(.()IJ\'ER, Be Cheft Michael AlJemeier (lnd DellI/is Greell
Yield: 6 Servings
•
Zinfandel wine
12 oz .
375 ml
Water
2 c. 12 oz.
500 Illl 375 g
20.
500 ml
Gmnuiated sugar Sundried emits, such as apples, cherries and apricots, whole
•
Cinnamon stick
I
I
Cloves, whole
2
2
Nutmeg
1/2 lSI'.
3 ml
Vanilla bean
1/2
1/2
Black peppercorns
6
6
Fresh ginger, sliced l'loney Ice Cream (recipe follows)
I -in. piece
2';-an piece
I . In a nonreadive saucepan, combine the wine, water. and sugar. BringlOl
boil, skim off an}' scum that famls, and add the fruit and spices. 2. Bring to a boil again. and remove from the heat. 3. Allow the compote 10 sit for several hours 10 allow the fruit \0 absorb ~ of the syrup. 4. To serve, warm the compote, and top with a scoop of Honey Ice Cream App!mimale ,'~lucs per 5-oz. ( 140-g) $CI'\'ing of compote: Calories 290, TOlal fal 0 g, Satunttd &I g. Cho leslt:ro l 0 mg, Sodium 30 mg, TOla l carbo hydrates 71 g, Prolein I g. CJaiJns-.foo flt III cholesterol; very low sodium; good souru:: of fiber
HONEY ICE CREAM Heavy cream Light cream Egg yolks Honey
1 pI.
500 ml 500 ml
8 1/2 c.
8 125 ml
I pI.
1. In a nonreactive saucepan, combine the two types of cream and heat ju.
to a simmer. 2. In a large mi."'dng bowl, beat the egg yolks and honey together until p3l'. slightly thickened and at the ribbon stage. Slowly add the heated cream. whisking continuously, so as nOl 10 cook the yolks. 3. Return the mixture to the s..1uceplln and cook over low heal, stirring coo· slantly, until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. 4. Remove from the hem and cool over an ice bath. Freeze in an ice cream maker. Approximate values per 3 t/2-o2. (t06-g) serving: Calork!> 275. Tolal fal 22 g. Saturated be 13 ~ Cho leslerot 210 mg, Sodium 48 mg, TOlat carbohrdralt.""!I 15 g. Prolei n 6 g. Vitamin A 3IJI; Cal
d um 10%
CUSlARDS, CREA,IIS, FROZEN DESSERlSAND DESSERT ~UCES
============ ~ ============
..--.
RECIPE 34.32
LEAtON SORBET
....:.
VINCENT ON CAMUELBACK, P110E.~lX, AZ Cbe/Vfllcell/ GlIeri/ballll
Yie[d: 1 1/2 qt. (1.5 [t) lemon juice Water Granulated sugar
I pI. I pI.
"b.
SOOml SOOml 500g
I. Combine the juice, water and sugar in a large bowl. Stir until the sugar dis-
solves completely. 2. Pour the lemon mixture into the ice cream/ sorbet machine and process ac-
cording to the manufacturer's directions. j. The finis hed sorbet will be rather soft. Pack it into a storage container and freeze at a temperature of OOF (- 1SOC) or lower until finn. Approximate ''lIIue:s per I.s-m. (45-g) serving: Catories 25. ToUl TOlle 0 g, Satur.o.eed TOlle 0 g, Cholcs· lrroI 0 mg. Sodium 0 mg. ToUl carbobydraecs 6 g, Protein 0 g. CIaims---f~1 free; no sodium; low
""'" ============ ~ ============ RECIPE 34.33
TRIO OF SORBETS WITH RAsPBERRY SAlAD RITZ-CARLTON, QIIC\GO, IL ExecZltit'e Che/George Blln/baris a"d Che/Sarah Steg"er Yield: 4 Servings
Raspberry Salad (recipe follows) SlrJwberry Sorbet (recipe follows) Apricot Sorbet (recipe follows) White Peach Sorbet (recipe fo llows) Spun sugllr fresh berries fresh mint Pate 11 Cigarette Batter (recipe follows)
as as as as
needed needed needed needed
for garnish for garnish for garnish for garnish
I. For each serving, arrange a mound of Raspberry Salad in the center of a
large plate. 2. Arrange 1 quenelle of each flavor of sorbet on top of the berries. J. Surround the sorbet with spun sliga r lmd garnisb with fresh berries, mini and a design made from Pate 11 Cigarette Baller.
RASPBERRY SALAD Yield: 4 Servings
Fresh raspberries Raspberry pur('C, strained
I pI. 2 oz.
450 ml
Gog COlllill lled
~
1073
1074 ...... ClW'lER 34 IT IT
Lemon juice
Sugar
IT IT
1. Toss the berries and the puree together gently. 2. Add sugar and lemon juice to taste. Keep refrigerated until needed. Approximate , ... Iues per serving: CaIorie:tl 43. Total fal 0 g, Saruralro fat 0 g, Cholesletd. 0 III Sodium 0 mg, Total carbohydrates 9 g, Protdn .5 g. Vitamin C 33%, CIaims--no fll; no_ terol; no sodium; high fiber
STRAWBERRY SORBET Yield: 8 4-oz. (I20-g) Servings Sugar
4 oz.
120 g
Pectin
I !Sp.
5ml
lib. 1 Tbsp.
450 g
Sorbet Syrup (recipe follows) Strawberries, pureed Fresh lemon juice
a oz.
225 ml
15 ml
1. Mix sugar and pectin together, add syrup and bring to a boil. Remove fum the heat and cool completely. 2. Add the pureed berries and lemon juice; stmin. Adjust the flavor with ad-
ditional sugar or lemon juice as needed. Freeze in an ice cream machine ApproxiIrute VlIiU(!$ per 4-<12. 020-g) SClVing: Calories 196. ToW fat 0 g. Saturated fat 0 g. 0I0IIt leroi 0 mg. Sodium 1.5 mg, Total a rbohydrates 48 g, Protcin 0 g, Vitamin C ~ aaa.-. f~t; 00 cholesterol; vt'l)' low .sodium; high fiber
APRICOT SORBET Yield: 4 4-oz. (120-g) Servings
4 oz.
Sorbel syrup ApricOt puree
I pI.
120 m! 450 m!
1. Combine syrup and puree; strain. Freeze in an ice cream machine. Approximate values per 4..oz. 02Q..g) serving; Calories 148. Total fat .5 g, Saturated f.Jt 0 g. (}o. lesterol O mg, Sodium 1 mg, Total carbohydratl'$ 34 g, Protein 1.5 g, Vitamin A 3OlV. Vitalllllt 20%. Claims----low fat; no cholesterol: very low mium; high fiber
WHITE PEACH SORBET Yield: 4 4-oz. (120-g) Servings Sorbet syrup White peach puree
4 oz.
120 ml
I pI.
450 ml
1. Combine syrup and puree; strain. Freeze in an ice cream machine. Approximate v;I)ues pc.- 4..oz. (12G-g) 5CfVing: Calories 120. Tow f~t 0 g. Satunted fat 0 g. (bob Icro l 0 mg, Sodium 0 mg, Total carboh)'dnles 29 8. Prolc in 1 g, Vitamin C I3%. ~ fII. no cholesterol; no sodium; high fiber
SORBET SYRUP Yield: 19 oz. ()80 m!) Sugar Water
11 0z.
8 oz.
330 g 250 Illi
1. Bring the sugar and water to a boil. Remove from the heat and refrigerate
until needed.
ClETARDS, CREAMS, FROZEN DE.SSER7SAND D~EHT SAUCES ~
PATE
ACIGAR£lTE
BAlTER
Yield: 26 oz. (750 g) BUller Confectioners' sugar Vanilla extract Egg whites Bread flour, sifted
6 oz. 7 oz. I tsp. 6 oz. 7 oz.
180 g 210 g 5011 180 g 210 g
1. Cream the bUller and sugar. Slowly add the vanilla and egg whites. 2. Add the flour and mix until smooth. Refrigerate before using. j. TIle bailer may be colored with food color. Usc a stencil to form the desired shape on a silicone baking mat. 4. Bake at 325°F (160°C) until lightly colored. Cool completely, then store at room tempef'Jture in an airtight container. !.pprolIOUIC I'llues per l~l. (2S-g) serving: Calories 109. Total f3t 5 g, SalUrated fat 3 g, Choles1m'11 14 mg, Sodium 65 mg, Total C'M bohydrate!J t4 g, Prote in \.5 g
============= ~ RECIPE 34. 34
CHOCOlAJ'E HAzELNUT MARQuIS Wlffl FRANGELlCO SAUCE Yield: 12 Servings Dark chocolate Unsalted buner Hazelnuts, roasted, skinned and chopped coarse Eggs, separated Frangelico (hazelnut liqueur) Slit Frangelico Sauce (recipe follows) Hazelnuts, roasted and chopped coarse Raspberries Mint
lib. 4 oz.
500 g 120 g
4 oz.
120 g
6
6
2 oz. pinch as needed as needed as needed as needed
60ml pinch as needed as needed as needc:.-'(\ as needed
1. [jne a terrine mold with melted bUller and parchment paper. 2. Melt the chocolate and butter over a bain marie. Remove from the heat and stir in the nuts, egg yolks and hazelnut liqueur. Set aside 10 cool to room temperature, but do nOt lise an ice bath as the chocolate will solidify. j. Whip the egg whites with the salt until stiff but nOt dry. Fold the whipped whites into Ihe chocolale mixlUre. t Pour the mLxlUre into the terrine mold and freeze overnight So Remove the marquis from the mold and peel off the paper. (Work quickly because this melts quickly.) While slill fr'Ozen, use a hot knife to sl ice the loaf into 1/3-inch (8-millimeter) thick slices. Helurn the marquis to freeze until just before service. 6. ScIW two slices on a pool of frangelico sauce. Garnish with coarsely chopped hazelnuts, fresh r.lspberries and mint. CO l/til/lied
1075
1076
~
CiIAPTER 34
Prep:lre :1 creme anghlise (Recipe 34.1), ~ the vanilla bean. Slir in 112 teaspoon (2 milliliters) vanilla and 2-3 tablespcw. 00--45 milliliters) of Frangelico, to taste. FOR 1llE F RA.."'lGEUCO SAUCE:
Approximate ",dues per st:1"\'ing: Caloril:$ 380. Total {al 28 g. Satun.too fat 14 g. CholeslerollZS Sodium 35 mg, Total carlxl hydn.tes 2S g. Protein 6 g, Vitamin A 10%
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 34.35
HOT AND COLD CHOCOlATE Chef Chris/opber Gross,
PIIO~\"lX,
AZ
Yield: 1 Serving Chocolate Ice Cream (recipe follows) Chocolate Tart Batter (recipe follows) Espresso Sauce (recipe follows) Dark Chocolate Sauce (recipe follows)
I portion 1 portion as needed as needed
1. Mold the chocolate ice cream in a 3-inch OJ-centimeter) diameter ring
mold and refreeze. 2. Coal another ring mold with melted butter or pan release spray and place on a sheet pan lined wilh parchment paper. Fill this ring with the Ch0colate Tan bauer to a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cemimeters). J. Bake the tan batter at 375°F 09Q°C) for 3 minutes. TI1e center should d be liquid. 4. Unmold the circle of ice cream in the center of a chilled plale. Carefull) unmold the hot chocolate tart and place it on (OP of the ice cream. [)ero. rate the plate with Espresso and Dark Chocolate Sauces and serve ~ diately.
CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM Yield: 10 SeIVings Egg yolks Granulated sugar Cocoa powder
5 5 oz. I 112 oz.
5 150 g 45 g
CUSTARDS, CREAMS, FROZEN DESSERTS AND DESSERT SA UCES
Milk Heavy cream Semi-sweet chocolate, chopped
1 pI. 3 oz. 4 oz.
;00 ml 90 g 120 g
I. Whisk (he egg yolks, sugar and cocoa together.
2. Combine the milk and cream and bring to a boil. Temper the egg mixture
with a ponion of the hot milk; relUrn the mixture to the saucepan and continue cooking, stirring constantly, until the custard thickens. j. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Stir until the chocolate melts, then strain and chill. 4. Process the custard in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's directions. Approximate values per serving: Calories 230. Total fat 12 g, Saturated fat 6 g. Cholesterol 125 mg, SodIum 35 mg. Tout carbohydra tes 26 g, Proteln 5 g. Viumin A 10%
CHOCOLATE TART BATTER Yield: 10 Servings Eggs
;
Granulated sugar Unsalted butter, melted Dark chocolate, melted Pastry flour
6 1/2 oz.
; oz. ; oz. 1 114 oz.
; 19; g 1;0 g 1;0 g
38g
I. Whisk the eggs and sugar together until thick. Stir in the melted bUller and
chocolate then fold in the flour. 2 Allow Ihe batter 10 rest at room temperature for approximately I hour be· fore baking. ApproXllll.1(c values per servillg' Caloric$ 310. TOlal fat 19 g, Saturated fat ! 1 g, Cholesterol 135 mg. Sodium 35 mg, Toul carbo hydrates 30 g, Prote in 4 g, Vitamin A 15%
ESPRESSO AND DARK CHOCOLATE SAUCES Yield: 6 oz. (180 g) of Each Sauce Heavy cream Vanilla bean Espresso bea ns Egg yolks Dark chocolate, chopped
8 oz. 1/2
2 oz. 4 2 oz.
2;0 1/2
g
Gog 4
Gog
1. Combine the cream, vanilla bean and espresso beans in a saucepan and bring to a boil. 2 Whisk the egg yolks together in a mixing bowl and temper with one third of Ihe hOI cream. j. Return the egg-and-cream mixture to the remaining cream and continue cooking, stirring constantly, until thick. Strain. t Divide the espresso sauce in half while still warm. Add the chocolate to one half of the warm 5.1UCe and stir until melted. I.pproxim:ltc values per serving: Ca lories! 10. Total fat 10 g. Saturalc:d fat 6 g, Cholesterol 95 mg , SoclIum 10 mg, Total carbo hydrates 3 g. Protein 2 g, Viumln A 10%
rra. J077
1078
""" CIW'lEJIj4 ~ ======
RECIPE 34.36
BlflTERSCOTCH SAUCE Yield: 2 qt. (2 ]{)
Unsal!ed butter
lIb. 8 oz. 21b. 4 oz. 4 o z.
Heavy cream Scotch
4 oz.
Granulated sugar Ught corn syrup
100l.
nOg I kg 120 g 300 g 120 g
1. Cook the sugar to a d'lrk brown carameL Add the corn syrup.
2. Remove the sugar from the he:lI and slowly add the butter and the cream, stirring until the butter is completely melted.
3. Stir in the Scotch and cool. values per l-fl. -oz. G~·g) serving: Calories 120. TotaJ fat 3 g. Satur:lled fat 2 g, a.o. lesterol 23 mg, Sodium 20 mg, Total carboh yd rates 23 g, Protein 0 g, Vitamin A 4%, CIaimflow fat; low chok>s'croI; ,'cry low sodium Appro~imale
======= ~ ===========
RECIPE 34.37
CHOCOLATE FUDGE SAUCE Yield: 1 gl. (4 It)
2 qt.
Zit
Heavy cream Light corn syrup
6 oz.
180g
Granulated sugar Bittersweet chocolate
8 oz. 4 lb.
22; g
2 kg
1. Combine the cream, corn syrup and sugar in a saucepan and bring just 10 a boil, stirring frequently. 2. Chop the chocolate and place in a large bowl. J. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and stir until completely melte\!. 4. Store well covered and refrigel"'Jted. Gently rewarm over a bain marie if de· sired. Approximate value:; per 1-01.. (29-g) serving: Calories 130. Total fat 9 g, Saturated fat 6 g, ChoIfI. teml 20 mg, Sodlllm 10 mg, Tow carbohrdratcs 10 g, Protein ] So Vitamin A 6%
============ ~ ===========
RECIPE 34.38
ESPRESSO SAUCE Chef Cbristopher Gross,
PIIOE.\lX, AZ
Yield: 1 1/2 pL (700 ml)
Egg yolks Granulated sugar Half-and-half Espresso beans Vanilla bean
8 3 1/2 oz. 1 pt. 3 oz. 1/2
8 loog 450ml
90g 1/2
C{JS[AR/JS, CREAMS, FROZEN DESSERTSAND DESSERT SAUCES ~
1. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a medium bowl. 2 Bring the half-and-half, espresso beans and vanilla bean to a simmer in a heavy saucepan. j. Temper the egg yolks with a ponion of the hot half-and-half, then return the mixture (0 the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Strain and cool over an ice bath. Approximate values pt.'T L-I1.-oz. (32.g) serving: CaLo ries 60. Total ral 4 g, Saturat~ ral 2 g, ChoLes· ICrol ~5 mg, Sodium LO mg, TOlai carbohydrates 5 g. Prolein 2 g, Vilamin A 6%
1079
SIX RESENTATION PART
F nallY, the real teSt has come. It is ti)TIe to put dow n the spatula and set the whisk aside. The food must be served. But it is important that the creativity and skill that went into cooking, baking or otherwise preparing the foods are not wasted because of a sloppy presentation or an unattractive setting.
Part VI deals with ways of presenting food. It begi ns with achapter on plate presentation, in which we demonstrate simple, yet effective techn iques for making foods visually appealing. It concludes with a chaprer o n buffet presentation, in which we discuss guidelines for creatively arranging and properly maintaining buffets.
HAPTER
35
_____ LATE RESENTATION .
.
=== ~ === After studying this chapter, you will be able to:
<"'0..
understand the basic principles
of plate presentation ~ use a variety of techniques 10
add visual appeal to plated
foods
bile food preparation is very much a science, food presentation is an art. Good plate presentation results from careful at· tention to the CO/Drs, shapes, textures and atnmgemems of the jocxJs. Great plate presentation requires expmience and style. 1n this chapter, we describe several methods ofpresentingJoods. We realize that Jar every gUideline we suggest, there are exceptions. NOT are our examples meant fa fal..>e the place of more traditiofla{ techniques. They are intended only to spark your imagination. As j\Ju gaifz experience, you wil/undoubtedly develop YOllr own style.
The final step in food preparation is 10 justify the hours of hard work spero cooking the food by serving and presenting it properly. Service is the process of delivering the selected foods to diners in the proper fashion. Hot foods should be served very hot and on heated plait'S: cold foods should be served very cold and on chilled plates. Foods should be cooked to the proper degree of doneness: A roast rack of lamb ordered medium rare should be medium rare-not medium, not rare. Pasta should be served al dente-slightly chewy, nOt mushy. Bread should be fresh, not Stale Portion sizes sho uld be appropriate, First courses and appetizers should be small e nough so that the diner can still appreciate the courses that follow. RkiI foods should be served in smaller portions than other foods. Presentation is the process of offering the selected foods to diners in 3 fashion that is visually pleasing. When presenting foods, always bear in mind that diners eat first with their eyes and then with their mouths. The foods must be pleasantly and appropriatcly colored, cut or molded. And the colors, textures, shapes and arrJngcmcnts of all foods mUSt work together to form a plcasing composition on the platc. Any decorative touches such as the manipulation of sauces or the addition of garnishes should be done thoughtfully and well. Most important, plates should be neat and clean. Inspect all plates before they leave the kitchen; wipe drops of sauce o r specks of food from their rims with a dean towel. Presentation techniques are divided here into two broad categories: those applied to specific foods and those applied to the plate as a whole. Most ci the techniques and concepts described here are illustrated with foods arecipes that appear elsewhere in the text.
THE FOOD oN> The most attractive foods will always be the ones that are properly prepared. -but they can be made even more attractive by cutting or molding them intO various shapes. Both of these techniques preserve the integrity of the roo:!: that is, neither changes the food itself, they on ly change the way the food is presented.
PlATE PRFSENTA710N r"II!\.
J085
~ ================== GARNISIIES
(Alt' An.HI7TEDLY I am a strong belia'er in the simple, edible garnish that has a close narOl' kinship to the dish, In my \\urld, d)-ed daikon flamingos, writhing carrot dt.lgons, and blinking Christmas UghlS in the empty eye sockets of a slir-fried lobster-ail gamishesofthe Hong Kongson-are out. So. too, are mdish fioy.'ers, tomato rosettes, and regetable pellets sculpted to look like suppositories, I find all of this loathsome. In myO\\'[\ mlher minimalist style, thehneiest J get is an occasional scallion brush. Otherwise. a leggy piece of coriander or a nourish of scallion rings:lre all that our already colorful
CRANKY AnJ/ONmO,v)
dishe> require. Or, if the dish is green. a confetti of finely diced red bell pepper \\ill do the job. The issue is a ~isible one. but it needs to make sense on rourtongue. Agarnish is primarily designed to tickle the e}~. but it also should meld seamies:siy with the other fl:lltllS on the plate or wntmst \\ith them in a me'dIlingful W',ly.
Gamishing the rims of plates-a current feature of trendy restaurants in the 9Qs-is something J find velj' peculiar. I spilt and splatter my 01\11 food quite nicely, thank you, and don't want the kitchen to do it for me.
Preparing Foods Properly FcxxIs look best when prepared properl)'. A sirloin steak grilled medium rare should be pink inside; its surface should glisten and be branded with welt-defined and neatl), executed hatch marks. \Vhen serving asparagus with hollandaise, the stalks should be bright green and crisp looking; the hollandaise sauce should be smooth and shiny, not grainy and dingy. A lemon meringue pie should be attractivel), browned on top; the filling should be a true lemony rellow and the cmst golden brown and without cracks. Whether a recipe calls for browning foods under a salamander before ser\~ce, poaching a gai:lI1tine of chicken wrapped in cheesecloth to maintain its shape or adding vinegar when braising red Glbbage, proper cooking procedures can enhance the texture, shape and color of many cooked foods. Throughout this text, we have discussed the proper cooking procedures for many, man)' foods. Use them.
Cutting Foods The careful clllling of foods often increases their visual appeal and reflects the chef's allention to detail. Here we distinguish between cutting foods to decorate the plate and CUlling the foods to be consumed. Decorative garnishes such as tomato and radish roses, frizzed scallions, walermelon boats and the like fa ll within the former category. Cutting foods inlO beautiful garnishes is an all unto itSelf, requiring skill and practice. Although beyond the scope of this text, books on creating food g.1mishes are listed in the Bibliography. The latter category includes the meats, poultry, fish , shellfish, vegetables and Slarches that are the meal. E.ach should be carefully cut. Vegetables can be cut into unifoml shapes and sizes such as julienne, batonnet or tourm':. If serving sliced mealS or poultry, the slices should be of even thickness; fish can be cut into tranches. Individual stew ingredients and soup or salad garnishes should be of uniform sizes. All these techniques are simple, fundamental lind effective. Some foods take the shape of the pan in which they are cooked. Polenta and gratin or eSGllioped potatoes, for example, can be presented allractively
Ditto the rage for :I whole chire aloft each :tppe1izer or a cage of spun sugar looming oo-e :ldessen.lt is admiuedly ....underful togi\)~a little height tO:l dish: One can :lfT'ange cold shrimp, for example, in :lUrel}' tlImble\\;th just a touch orl\\"(). But the unrelated \-enic:ll garnish is often absurd, :I bit of Dr. SetISS 011 the plate. I sound cranky. and perhaps I ami Restaurant cooks frequently spend 100 much time decorating their food. and too little lime paying attention to its taste. This. I think, is sad. -from GHbVJ. MOON COOKBOOK by BAABAAA TRopp
/086 '""" CIW'lER 35
when baked in and removed frolll individual casseroles, or they can be 00ked in a hotel pan and then Cut into various shapes. PROCEDURE FOR CIJITI~G POLlWTA 1. Cook the polenta according to the recipe. When it is done, pour il onto 3
well-oiled or buttered half sheet pan. Then chill it in the refrigerator until finn.
2. Once the {X>lenta is firm, flip the pan over onto a work table. Lift off the pan; the polenta will come out easily. Using a chefs knife or circular cutters, cUllhe {X>lenta into the desired shape. The {X>lenta can be saute-etl or grilled for service.
Cutting polenta into various shapes. PROCEDURE FOR CIJITI~G GRATIN OR EscAllOPED POTATOES
1. Select a reCipe that produces a firm fin ished product so thai the finished dish will hold ils shape after cutting. 2. Bake the potatoes in a well-greased hotel pan and refrigerate until cold and firm. Then cut the potatoes into vllrious shapes with a chefs knife or circular cutters and remove them to a clean p;ln with a spatula. 3. For service, reheallhe potatoes in a 32;oF (160°C) oven until hot.
Cutting potaloes with a circular cutter.
Molding Foods Some foods , particularly grains or vegetables bound by sauces, can be molded into altractive, hard-edged shapes by using metal rings, circular cutlers or 00ler fomlS. TI)ese molded forms creale height and keep the plate neat and clean. PROCEDURE FOR MOWING GRAINS
1. Fill a timbale, soup cup or other mold of the appropriale size and shape with the hot grains, firmly pressing them together.
PW'E PRfSF..NTA11ON
. 1087
2. For ala carte service, immediately unmold the grains onto the serving plate by placing the mold upside down on the pl:ue and tapping its rim. J. For banquet service, place the filled molds in a hotel pan and refrigerate until needed. Shortl}' before service. fill the hotel pan with hot water to a point about two thirds up the side of the molds. Be careful nOt to splash any water Onto the grains. Cover the pan with foil and place in the oven. Heat until the grains are hal. then plate as desired.
Unmolding a timbale of rice.
PROCEDURE FOR MOLDING VEGETABLES
I. Position a ring mold on the plate
2. Carefu lly lift off the ring.
and fill it with the vegetables. Press the foods into the ring to help them hold the shape. Level the top.
THE PIATE .h"> Properly cooked, carefully cut and appropriately molded foods should not I~ haphazardly slapped onto a plate. Rather, you should choose and position the foods carefu lly to achieve a plate presentation with a ba lanced, harmonious composition. The composition can be further enhanced by decorating the plate with garnishes, cmmbs or sauces. Some of these techniques (for example, decorating the plate with powdered sugar) do not substamially affect the flavors of the foods , they only make the completed presentation more attractive. Other techniques (for example, garnishing a dessert with finely chopped nuts or painting a plate with two sauces) add flavor :lnd texlure to the finished dish.
Composition-a rompieled pklle~ sJruclure of sbnp€s ami flrrtlllgetlll?TI/s.
roIors, lexlllm,
1088
• CIIAl'f'BR 35
Choosing Plates Restaurant china is available in many different shapes, sizes, colors and piterns. It is often the chef's responsibility to choose the appropriate piece Ii china for a particular dish.
Sizes and Shapes
Chew), Date Btlrs with Cilramel Ice Cream
Most plates are round, but oval plates, often referred to as platters. are ~ coming more common. !lImes lire available in a variety of sizes from a smaI 4-inch OO-centimeter) bread plate to a huge 14-inch (35-centimeter) chargera' base plate. Plates are typically concave; their depths vary within a limiIt'd range of about 1 inch (25 centimeters). r-,'[ost plates have rims; rim diame!m also vary. Soup bowls G in be rimmed or rimless. Soup plates are usually b~ and shallower than soup bowls :lnd have wide rims. Soup cups arc also aniJ. able. There are also dozens of plate designs intended (or II specific purpose. such as plates with small indemations (or holding escargots, or long, rerungular plates with grooves for holding asparagus. Choose plllies large enough to hold the food comfortably without Ol'e!" crowding or spilling. Oversized, rimm(.-'d soup plates are becoming quite ~ ular for serving any food with a sa uce. Be careful when using oversized puttS. however, as the food may look sp:lrse, creating poor value perception. Whether you choose a round, oval or less conventionally shaped plate,!)! sure to choose one with a size :md shape that best highlights the food aOO supports the composition. For example, in the photograph to the left. !he rec· tangular dish with round corners and raised rim accentuates the geometrically simple yel effective composition of the square cl-ite bar and spherical scoopd ice cream.
, Dinner plate
Kimmet! soup bol<1
Coupe fruiVdesse!1 bol
Rim 5haped pble
Coupe shaped pWe
FIGURE
35.1
Common Restal/rallt C""w
PlATE PRF.$EN7iI710N c1'~
Colors and PallerJJs White and cream are by rar the mOSt common colors for restaurant china. Al-
most any food looks good on these neutral colors. Colored and pancmed plates can be used quite effcaively 10 accent food, however. The obvious choice is to contrast dark plates with bright- or li8111colored foods and light pbtes with dark-colored foods. 11lC food should always be the focal point of any plate. Be careful in selecting restaurant china with intricate designs and brightly colored patterns that can conflict or compete with the colors, shapes and arrangements of the foods. The colors and shapes in the pattern should blend well and harmonize with the foods served. The swirling patterns of blues, grays, pinks and yellows along the plate rim shown to the right, for example, hamlOnize well with the colors of the salmon blini, stuffed squash blossoms and their accompaniments.
StlJm01/ Blini with Sluffed Squash Blossoms
Arranging Foods on Plates You should strive for a well-balanced plate composition. This can be achieved by carefully considering colors, textures, shapes and arrangements.
Colors foods come in a rainbow of colors and to the extent appropriate, foods of different colors should be presented together. Generally, the colors should proI'ide balance and cOntrast. But no matter how well prepared or planned, some dishes simply have dull, boring or similar colors. If so, try adding anQ{her ingredient or garnish for a splash of color. The vivid red lobster claws and the shiny black mussel shells shown here add striking color notes to a paella dish that would otherwise be dominated by yellow rice, tan chicken, brown sausages and gray dam shells.
Pae/It,
Textllres \rlSual texture refers to how smooth or rough, coarse or fine a food looks. ~!ashed potatoes and OITot puree both look smooth and soft. Salmon mousseline and spinach souffle both have slightly grainy surfaces. Rasti potatoes and meatloaf both appear coarse. The flavors of each food in these pairs differ; their visual textures do not. Typically, foods with similar textures look boring together; foods with different texmres look more exciting. Serve carrots cut julienne with the mashed potatoes to achieve a balance of hard and soft textures; steamed leaf spinach wilh the salmon mousseline for a combination of smooth and gf"".liny textures; and a baked palma with the meatloaf for pairing fluffy and C(X1r5e textures. These pairs generally maintain the same range of flavors as the first set of pairs while providing different visual textures. The cassoulet shown to the right harmoniously combines sevemltextures in one dish: the pebbly beans, the slices of smooth slab b.1con and co.1r5e sausage and the humpy skin of the duck leg. Indeed, the variation in textures is so dramatic and appealing that many diners may not even notice that all the principal ingredients are essentially the same color.
Cassoulet
Sbn"es For a more dr:tmatic presentation, combine foods with different shapes on one plate. The plme shown on the next p.1ge is an excellent example of simple shapes anfully combined: ovals of evenly sliced lamb loin with cleanly cut tri-
1089
1090
<'\'!\.
ClIAJ'lER 35 angles of crisp potatoes and long, thin spears of asparagus. The three vc!ydi· ferent shapes lend COntntSI and chamcter \0 the dish.
A"angeme111s Having decided on the colors, textures and shapes of the foods that will 8000 the plate, you must next decide where 10 place each individual item to achiere a balanced and unified composition. /I'lostly this takes judgment and style, tu there arc a few general guidelines.
GUIDEUNES FOR ARRANGING FOODS ON A PlATE
lamb Loin with HOsti Potatoes
1. Strike a balance between overcrowding the plate and leaving large gapsd space. Foods should nOl1ouch the plate rim nor necessarily be confined to the very center.
2. Choose a focal point for the plate-that is, the point 10 which the eye is drawn. This is usually the highest point on the plate. Design the plate \\~th the highest point to the rear or center. Avoid placing foods of equal hei~ around the edge of the plate leaving a hole in the center-the eye will naturally be drawn to that gap. 3. The plate's composition should fl ow naturally. For example, make the highest point the back of the plate and have the rest of the food become gradually shorter toward the front of the plate. Slicing and fanning foods can attract the eye and help establish flow.
The grilled duck with roasted vegetables shown here elegantly illustmtes these principles. Height is established by a Structure composed of the duck leg and thigh, sliced turnips and baby carrots. The structure sits toward the back of the plate. Its height, placement and striking appearance make it the fOC2l point. The neatly sliced duck breast is then fanned across the plate in from d this focal point, drawing the viewer into the plate.
Grilled Duck with Roasted Vegetables
Decorating Plates The colors, textures, shapes and arrangements of foods on a plate can be im· proved or highlighted by decorating a plate wilh herbs, spices and other gar. nishes, baked hippen masse dough and sauces. If any of these afe to be applied after the principal food is placed on the plate, be prepared to do so quickly so that the food is served at its proper temperature.
Plate Dusting An attractive method for decorating dessert plates is to cover the entire plate with a dusting of powdered sugar, cocoa powder or both before placing tht: dessert on the plate. Use sugar on dark-colored plates and cocoa on light·
flA71i PRESENT'AnON
""I!I.
1091
colored plates. '111ese items can be dusted onto the plate with a sha ker can or sifter in a free-form fashion or into any desired pattern by using a template. The template can be :1 doily or a stencil placed over the plate before it is dusted.
PROCEDURE FOR DU;T ING DESSERT PIMES
I. Place a template over the pl:tte.
2. C'uefully remove the template.
Dust the sugar or cocoa over the template.
Provided they complement the food. very finely chopped nuts can also be used to decorate plates for sweet or savory foods. See, for example, the plate of French toast garnished with chopped macadamia nuts shown here. Plates for savory foods ("'.In be decorated in a similar fashion by sprinkling them with finely chopped herbs such as thyme or minced \'egetables such as a combination of brightly colored peppers.
Garnishing Plales with Herbs Using fresh herbs is one of the easiest ways to add color, texture and flow to a plale. Whether the herb is an ingredient in the dish or merely a decofation, it should alw;LYs complement the foods and be consistent with their seasonings. A sprig of fresh rosemal)' g
Using herbs to garnish a plate.
, •
French toast garnished with I>owdered sugar and chopped nuts.
1092
C!W'lER 35
Gamisbing Plate Rims wi/b Herbs or Spices Finely chopped herbs or milS or whole or ground spices can be used to dtf· orate plate rims. Whale\'er garnishing items are used, they should complemecf the main foods and be consistent with their seasonings.
PROCEDURE FOR GARNlSIIING PlATE RIMS
1. Apply a light coating of oil o r softened butter to the plate rim with :1 past!)' brush. Be careful 10 apply the oil Of butter only where you want the herbs, spices or other garnishes 10 stick.
2. Sprinkle the desired amount of
garnish over the oiled or buttered area. Then tip the plate to let the e.xcess garnish fall away.
3. Alternatively, a small portion of the plate can be brushed and decorated.
Gamisbil1g Plates wi/b Hippel1 Masse An increasingly popular presentation technique is to pipe 1:>
============ ~ =========== RECIPE 35. 1
SAVORY HIPPEN MAsSE ARIZONA BILTMORE, 1'1l0f.'iIX, KI..
Yield: I lb. (450 g) Egg whites, room temperature Wondra flou r Heavy cream Granulated sugar Salt and white pepper Dried thyme, crushed
Soz. 4 oz. 3 oz. loz. IT
IIsp.
250 g 120 g 90 ml
109 IT Sml
1. Stif the egg whites together to blend. Slir in all the flour at once. 2. Blend in the heavy cream, then add the remaining ingredients. 3. Strain the bailer through a china cap and allow to rest for 30 minutes. 4. Lightly oil the back of a ve!)' flat sheet pan. Pipe the hippen masse 0010 the pan lIsing a plastic squeeze bottle. Pipe the batter into decorative pat· terns appropriate for the desired plate presentation. 5. Bake at 375°F (190 0 e) until set and lightly browned. Remove from the oren, then remove the decorations from the sheet pan while still slightly warm.
PUfE PRESENfA770N
" Piping the bauer onto an oiled sheet pan.
1093
2. Using the baked bailer as a componem when composing a plate.
Decoratillg Plates with Sauces The sauce is an integ,.. l part of most any dish: It adds flavor and moisture; it llso adds color, texture and flow 10 the plate. A rich, glossy bordelaise or Madcir:l sauce pooled beneath sauteed tOllrnedos of beef is a classic example. A chunky salsa of tomatoes, papaya and pineapple beneath a ju icy piece of grilled salmon is a more contemporary approach. Sauces are also used in other, less traditional ways to add visual appeal. For example, if using a vinaigrene dressing for grilled foods, let the oil and vinegar separate and pool on the plate, creating the interesting effect shown opposite. One or more colored sauces can also be used to paint plates. One technique is simply to drizzle or splaner the sallce 0010 the plate. In the photograph shown below, the sallce boldly splal1ered across the plate is the same rich magema beet vinaigrel1e as that pooled beneath the sea bass; Ihe plate's drama is heightened by the contl'3sting tomato ovals and potato spikes.
Pall -seared Sea Bass with &!et Villaigrelle
Alternatively, one or more colored sauces can be applied to a plate using squirt bottles to create abstr:lct patterns or representational designs. Painting pbtes with different-colored sauces also facilitates fl ow and adds color. Although this technique can be used with hot sauces, it is more often used with cold sauces (such as vanilla , caramel, chocolate and fruit-flavored ones) for dessert presentations. 111e sauces must be thick enough to hold the pattern once it is created. and they should all be the same viSCOSity.
GriDed !/tlfli/ ulith Balsamic Raspberries
1094 """
CIWfEiI 35
PROCEDURE FOR PAINTING A DESIGN Wlm SAUCES
I . Apply the sauces to the plate in
parallcl lines of alternating colors,
2. Clucfully pull :1 toothpick through the sauces, perpendicular to the
parallcllincs in the sauces.
PROCEDURE FOR I'Al,\'I1NG A SrUlER WEB DESIGN
1. Pool one sauce evenly across the entire base of the plate, then apply a contrasting 5.1UCe onto the base 5.1UCe in a spiral.
2, Omwa thin-bladed knife or a toothpick through the sauces from the center point toward the edge. Then, leaving a half inch (1.2 centimeter) space along the edge. draw a knife blade or (()(){hpick from the edge to the center.
Other panerns can be produced b}' squirting the sauces
on10
the plaIt' in
different panerns or b}' pulling the knife or toothpick through the sauco 10
different directions. As shown to the lefi, a circle of chocolate-sauce dots in a pool of vanilla sauce is pulled 10 create a leaf wreath.
ti}JNCLUSfON .m--, Although the techniques described in this cha pler-as well as man)' OIher ones-can be used to create a variety of effects, often the mOSt elegant plJt~ are those with the Simplest designs. 1110Ughtfui presentation improves the appeal and appearance of any focxl as well as the completed plate. bm it canna tTh1sk (X>Or-quality, poorly prepared or bland-tasting fO<Xls.
l'lAlB l'RESFlI'E4110N
,! !2UEfTIONS FOR DISCUSSION J'::'-> 1. Explain why proper sen
. 1095
HAPTER
6 UFFET J1TION
"" P"""ol
===r== ~ ==
After stud iog Ihis chapter, you will be able \0: ~ ~
understand the basic principles of buffel presentation use a variety of techniques to create and maintain appealing buffets
bllffet offers diners aU the dishes from a selected
menu, llslIally at one time, in a single, altractive setting. A buffet 0ffers food seIVice professionals the opportunity to exercise their creativity by identifying themes and (ben creating menlls, displays alld decorations with these tbemes in mind.
In this chapter, we use the word buffet to desClibe borb the e/'elll where all the dishes from a lIlenu are seIVed al. once as tvell as the table on which tbese foods are displayed and from which diners senr themselves or are se/vecl ~y wait staff. Buffet foods call be, viI1l1ally, any of those found in this book.
PlANNING THE B UFFET Buffets must be carefully designed to provide foods from a planned menu in an attractive fashion to a given number of people within a specified time_ Doing this well requires a collaborntive effort a,mong the chef, the cuering sales staff and the dining room manager, banquet manager or other senior front-of-the-house staff. Together, they identify the theme for the evem and choose the menu. If the event is designed for a specific cliem, then the client should be invited to join in the planning. The theme sets the tone of the event; it defines a motif: an elegant Sunday brunch, a black-and-white formal. a Mexican fiesta, a Hawaiian luau. Regard-
less of the purpose for the event-a wedding, bar mitzvah, business luncheon. charity ball or the like-the theme defines the menu, decof'd.tions, props, linens
and dinnerware; it can even define the music, lighting and wait staff uniforms. In Figures 36.1 through 36.4, we present examples of menus, decorations and butTel plans for various themed events, Once the theme is identified, a menu is designed. Essentially, a lunch or dinner buffet offers an a la carte menu; the only ditTerences are that at a buffet , the foods are presented all at once and the diners generally serve themselves or are served by wait staff stationed
BUFFET PRESENrA110N
-
1099
==========
KEEPINC K OSJlf:R
To one degree or anolher, many observant ~ht!r: that is, lhey adilt!l'e 10 dietary laws rooted In the Torah (the first fire books of the Old Testament) and developed orer the cen[uries by Jewish scholars. nl€Se laws (1) categorize foods, and (2) define basic dietary principles. Kosher FrnIs: Only O1l'al from animals that chew their cud and hare split hooves can be e:llen. These include callie, goats. deer and other g:une; S\Ioine are not !I kooher species. Poultry can be kosher, provided it is not from a bird of prey; Ihus, chicken, duck, goose and IUrkey are allQII."OO, ha\\>k and eagle are no\. ~'l'I1 if the species is kosher, the animal must still be slaughtered and butchered according 10 religioUS rules.. For fish [0 be kosher, i[ must hare both .scales and gills; this eliminates catfish and eel, ~I!ld no shellfish can be kosher. Dairy products are kosher if the species from 'Io"hich they corne is kosher: for cheese [0 be
jeII.'S kt.'ep
kosher, il must be made II-;thout rennel. Fresh fruits and wgetables are a1 . . .'3)"S kosher, as are baked goods. prmided they are not made with :Ulimal fats. Commercially prepared foods marked \\ith ®,®or a similar symbol indica~ that the food product is kosher, Ihe pnxiucer ha\ing used appropriate ingredients and met certain standards and its facilities ha\ing bren inspected and appTOll'd by a rabbi. Kosher Dietary Principles: All foods are either: (I) meat, (2) dairy, or (3) pare...e (parl'C). l1le prinCipal dietary rule for keeping kosher is that meat and dairy foods cannot be cooked or eaten togelher. (h"er the Q"!nluries, this rule has been refined to the point that people keeping kosher will hare \'.\'0 selli of cooking utensils, dishes and f!\'en dishcloths, OIle de\."OIed to meal, Ihe other to dairy, so that tllere is no accidental mixing. Particularly observant Jev.s lIill ewn wait for one to six hours after eating a meat dish before consuming a dairy dish.
entn.-es, make one beef and the other poultry; if there is a third, use fish or shellfish. [f there are twO starch dishes, make one a pasta and the other a potato dish. Also. avoid repeating ingredients in different dishes; for example, if the entree is a stir fry of beef and broccoli, do not offer steamed broccoli as a vegetable side dish. • Offer foods cooked by different methods-For example, serve beef bourgu ignon (a hOt braised meat dish), roast turkey (a hot or cold roasted poultry dish) and salmon with dill sauce (a cold poached fi sh dish). Again, [his avoids repetition. • Offer foods with different colors-Fetruccine Alfredo and poached fish in a bearnaise sauce may both taste good, but they look boring next to each other. Inste;ld, offer a tomato and bell pepper salsa instead of the bearnaise sauce, or a pasta primavera in place of the Alfredo. This will increase the bullet's visual appeal. • Offer foods with different texlures-If twO or more soups are served, make one a clear soup and the other a cream or pUrl-e soup; use a variety of tossed and bound sal:lds, each with different principal ingredients. When defining the theme and creating the menu, costs must be considered. Often a client will place a limit on what he or she wants 10 spend for the buffet. [I is then Ihe responsibil ity of the chef, sales staff andlor dining room manager to create an 3uractive and satisfying buffet that meets this budget , while providing a reason3ble profit to the food service operation. One typical method of meeting these sometimes conflicting needs is to plan a menu that balances both high end and less expensive items.
Pam'e refers to neutral (neuter) foods such as fruits, 'l!gclllhb, breads, fish , eggs md cert:lin
oommercially prepared foods that can be eaten with either meat or dairy items. Not all JC\\-'S keep strict!)' kosller. For those who do. tlley will dine Olll only in :. restaurant that regularly OOserl'eS the s:une religious laws that they do at home or in one that has been speciaU)' inspected and appl"O\'I..'d by a rabbi for the particular occasion (an option often used by catering faciliUe; 10 accommodate kosher wedding, har mitzvah, bat mltzvall and other Jewish Q"!lebrations). Other Jews will keep kosher b)' not eating any shellfish, any meat, poultry or fish from nonkosller species or mixing dairy and meat. but they lIill not insist that separate meal and dairy cooking and eating utensils be used. They will generally dine in nonkosher ~tallrants, provided that tile menu (sometime; referred to as '"kosher-style") offers appropriate selections from kosher specie;.
JJ 00
f""2\..
ClWTER 36
DESIGNING THE B UFFET .n-, After the theme is set, members of the planning group should study the room. garden, patio or other space where the event will be held. TIley need to alJo. cale space for the buffet table(s), the dining tables and, depending on !he fundion, one or more bars, a dance floor, a stage for musicians, a podium fer
speakers, audiovisual equipment for presentations and so on. When doing so, common sense should be used: TIle buffet shou ld be in an area with easyac· cess to both the kitchen and the dining tables-neither the wait staff nor the diners should have 10 cross a dance floor or walk in front of a podium to get to the food. Similarly, a sta~e or podium should be within good sighllines ci the dining tables.
Once the room's layout is determined, the chef and/or banquet or dining room manager decides on the shape of the buffet table. A buffet table is usu· ally composed of one or more standard·sized tables grouped together in a functional and attractive shape. Standard table shapes and sizes are found in Table 36.1; arrangements of the various sizes ,md shapes are shown in Figures 36.1 though 36.4. nle buffet table can then be draped with a floor-length linen tablecloth, or a tablecloth with a detachable skirt can be used. An alternatil'e 10 standard-sized tables shrouded in linen is to use unique pieces of furniture TABLE
36.1
STANDARD
J'!1'>
BUFFET
Shape
Sizes
Rectangle
6 feel x 30 inches
I
I
Round
0 D
Half-round
, ,
Quarter-round
(WedgelD
. Serpentine
SJ
TABLES Sizes for Tablecloths or Skining
,
8 feel x 30 inches
90 x 128 inches (Hoor length) 60 x 125 inches Oap length) or 90 x 153 inches (floor length)
24-inch diameter
SO-inch diameter (floor length)
36-inch diameter
96-inch diameter (floor lerwh)
48-inch diameter
80 inch (lap) or 108 inch (floor)
6O-inch diameter
96 inch (lap) or 120 inch Woor)
n-inch diameter
108 inch (lap) or 132 inch Woor)
3D-inch radius at 1800 angle (I.e., half of a ISO-inch diameter round)
160 inches of skirting
,
, 3Q-inch radius at 90" angle (i.e.; onc quarter of a 6O-inch di3mcler round)
110 inches of Skirting
Outside curve measures 8 feel, inside curve measures 4 feet, ends measure 30 inches (i.e., one quarter of ,I circle's circumference)
Specialty clO{hs needed
BUFFer PRESENTA710N
~
I /01
such as cabinets, sideboards, consoles, amlOires, desks or other fumitllTe , draped with linens o r not. TIle number of diners is a critical consideration when deterolining the size, armngement and placement of the buffet table. As a general rule, no more than 100 diners should be served from a traditional single-sided hot and cold buffet (excluding stations). See Figure 36.1. But even with this limit, many guests will still have to wait on line, although their wait should not be excessive. Several techniques can be used to serve large groups efficiently. One 01'UOIl is to use a double-sided buffet line. On a double-sided buffet, the same foods are served on both sides of the table. See Figure 36.2. All diners approach the table from the same direction and at the stall of the buffet, the line is split, with half of the diners divelled to either side. Or a single-sided buffet can be divided into {Wo, three or more lones, each of which offers the identical foods. See Figure 36.3. Either option requires that the buffet provide the diners with appropriate visual cues to recognize that the two sides of the table or two ends of the table arc offering identical fare. Another option for serving larger crowds is to divide the menu among varbus stations that are scattered throughout the room or series of rooms. See figure 36.4. One station can be devoted to cold sal:lds o r 10 an elaborate display of cold fish and sheUfish surrounding an ice sculpture. Another can be devoted to pasta prepared to order by a line cook assigned to the station; equipped with a p<)Jlable gas or electric burner, the chef can finish precooked pasta in the diner's choice of 5.1UCe, Other stations can offer roasted meats and poultry kept warm by an infra-red heat lamp ,md carved to order by the station chef. See Figure 36.4. The excitement and beaucy of a welJ-designed buffet table depends principally on two factors: (1) the arrangement of the foods on their individual servIng pieces, and (2) the arrangt:llu::111 uf the foods and decorations on the buffet table.
Arranging Foods on Serving Pieces The chef is responsible for determining how the foods wil! be arranged on their sm'ing pieces. Most hot foods will be presented in chafing dishes while cold or room-temperature foods are usually served on trays, platters, bowls or mirrors. Chafing dishes are metal dishes, lIS113lly rectangular o r round, with a heat source (flame or electric) located beneath, which is used to keep the foods ?';Inn; the foods are usually placed in a hotel pan o r other receptacle that sits inside the chafing dish above a shallow pool of hot water. Ch:lfing dishes are usually covered in copper, silver or st:linless sleel. Trays, plauers and mirrors for presenting foods are available in four basic shapes: square, rectangle, round and oval. They come in a wide variety of materials, including metal (Silver, copper, tin and stee1), ceramics (china and l'3nhenware), glass, mirrors (glass and acrylic), plastic, wood and stone (especially marble). The choice depends on the theme. Silver and mirror trays create a more formal fee l al an event; ceramic and wood lend a more casual
Chafillg Dish
look. Once the tray, platter, bowl or mirror is chosen, the chef must artfully arrange the food on it. When designing the presentation, the chef should con-
sider: 1. Height-The eye is naturally drawn toward the highest point on a tray; typGrosse picce---
1102
CIwrrHn 36
2.
3.
4.
5.
level higher than the centerpiece usually distr.:lct from tbe overall appeat· ance. Pauern-Whenever possible, foods should be arranged in an interestin~ pattern. Three different lypeS of canapes, eJlCh chosen for contf3SlUl~ shapes, colors and textures, can march across a mirrored surface in alter· nating lines. Crudites can flow from baskets, hollowed squashes or bel peppers. Spsals of different piltes can swirl around one ~In(){her. Fcro. should generally flow toward the diner. So, stack foods higher in the emtel' or rear of the tray so that they cascade toward the front or edges. (TfJ~ lila! are higher around all the edges than in the center tend to draw the ~r into the hole in the center.) Color-The color of the princip:tl foods shol!ld complement or conlr.l.·~ with each other. If they cannot (for example, a tray of pates or che&Sl. they should be garnished with attractively contrasting colored foods such as frui ts, vegetables and herbs. Texture and shape-Try to us/;! a variety of shapes and textures. Aroid building lrays with circular slices of gal:mtine garnished with circular lil"t'r mOllsse molds ancl round tartlets of a vegetable puree; all have the sam.' shape and vcry similar textures. [nste:ld. II)' molding Ihe mousse or tanlro into different shapes or preparing it vegetable salad r.:lIher than a puree f
Arranging Foods and Otbel' Items on tbe Buffet Table \'(Ihen designing the shape of the buffet table, the chef :1Ild!or banquet or din· ing room manage r must also consider how the various foods, centerpieces and props will be laid out on the table. Besides color. height, shape and texture. they should consider: I . Flow-Regardless of whether a single buffet table. a main buffet table with
Pas/a S/atiOIl 7be Phoenician. Sa;/Istklle. AI
one or mOTe stations or only stations lIfe used, the foods should be placecl in a logical orde r that :lffords the diner the chance to constnlCl a meal in the same order as one that would be served to him or her. The start of the buffet line should be obvious llnd accessible; usually, it is near the entrance to the room. Typically. on a single- Of double-sided buffet table, the first items of· fered the diner are plates. (Flatware and mlpkins can be located at the Start or the end of the buffet or on the dining tables.) The fi rst foods 10 be of· fered should be soups and 5.1lads. TIlese should be followed byappemer> such as cold sliced melliS, p:ltes, shellfish and the like. Entn':'Cs should br next, along with their vegetable and starch :lccomp.1nimenlS. Dessesb should be the last items on the buffet. (Beverages can be available on the buffet table, at a bar, on the dining tables or offered by circulating wlit staff.) Stations offer the designer greater flexibility. TIley also help minimizl! the line that usually forms at ;1 single buffet table, allowing dineiS to go in various directions, although this can sometimes cause tr:lffic problems. like a single buffet table, each SImian can be designed so that il offeiS diners sufficient selections to creme a complete meal. Or the stations can br arranged arollnd a room in a sequence mirroring a meal: soups and salads
8U/-1·1:.7 PRESEN7'Anav
""\!l,
1103
D ECOR
linells: buffet and dining tables draped \\ith floor- length colored linens, buffet table with a contrasting o\1! rl a)~ linen napkins in the same colors as the tablecloths and overlay.
Menu Sunscl Salntl
01 ~ 'b:cII Grtttts.
ClI,·us \Vc,lgC$ It"'[ Crisl'g T..rllll(1rrlzzlt!S wall " n asI,LerT9 Vi,u.lgrclle
Centerpieces: fresh floy;ers
(tulips, mums, lilies and greenery),
Seroice ware: polished stainless steel or brass trays and chafing dishes; ceramic bowls. DilllrerU'are: white or il'Ol)' china, stainless flatware and plain stemware.
Dnupllluc Pol;.locs
~ lcJ lc!l
Music: none
01ZUCClllui. Yellow Sqllnsll llmi Cu ruls
AssorlCll llolls wlll, Sw,-'(.~ amI n,,·..,.cJ Hullers
Ifail stalJlIlIiforms: bistro attire (white button-down shirts, long tie, black pants and long aprons).
WI.He (1,,)(01111,) CI.CC!S(.'<:(.ke wH~ WI.lIe (lu)(olnlc Curls IIm[ Cllmmel Sauce
r.'csh rru il [1ll1l1er (luKolllle C.kl'rlel Torle ...al. I?lIsl.krr!l S,luce 1Ct...J Tell.
lemoll",lcnll(l Slmrki'''!l Woler rrellc~ I?Ullsl ( ..lice
'-
A SI .... cLE-snn:u BUFFET TO FEW
50
PEOPLE.
9. SWet1 3ild F1~rt'd Buncrs 10. Bask('ls of Rolls II. Outing dish of OJkkt'll with Wild Mushroom ,,~
\2 . a.ating di5Il or Salmon 13. Desser1 pIaIes
f~1ets
14 . ~
Tht krt' for the bulfl'l table l. R('CWIguiar tabIt, 8 fl'tll 30 Inches I BaskeI of nar,.-:uy rolled In llnen n~pklns 1, Dinner 11I:uf:S 3, Sonsl'l Sabd FlGi:RE 36,]
Bllsilless LIIIIl.:beoll Bllffet
4. Raspherry\'inaigreue ;. ~Salad 6. Chafing dish of \'eg«able Medley 7. Centerpiece 8. Chaling dish of Dauphine Potatoes
Frull Pbuer CItocobLC Tone Car2meI Sauct!or ~Ot~ R2sl'berry Sauct for the Choco/3le Tort~ /1'011: Beo'mge5 \\111 be in pitchers on the !able
JJ04
C/f)JTJ1::n 36
..,.... ~
1! """" t:!.~
~ ~
I
C rudites 01 Red and Green Bell Peppers, Carrots, Cau[iflower, Broccoli, Jicama and Snap Peas with Sun-Dried Tomoto Dip T ri-colore:J TDftilia Chips with Fresh Tomato-CiJontro Sa[so, . . Zesty Guacamole and Sour Cream W orm Chorizo Chili Can Oueso
Fresh Fruit Salad of Watermelon, Honeydew, Cantaloupe, Pineapple, Papaya, Berries and Gropes with Tequila lime Splash M exican Celebration Cookies P ii"ion Nut Tarts
P etit B[ue Corn and Shrimp Tama[es with Cilartro Cream Soft Tacos 01 Grilled Pork loin and Marinated Bone[ess Chicken Breast, Served w~h Ancho-Chi[e Honey Sauce, Tomato Cilantro Sa[so, A vocado, Grated Queso Blanco ~ and Diced Tomatoes G oot Cheese and Green Chile Chimichangas with Roosk:!d Habenera Sauce
Lemon Curd Torts M ocha Mousse Cups with Cinnamon Fresh Roosted Mexican Coffee Fresh Mint lemonade, Peach Iced Teo with lemon and Sparkling Waler A ssorted Wines and Mexican Beers
=================== ~ ================== DECOR lillells: buffet and dining tables draped
in bright colors (yellow, orange, red, fuschia and/or turquoise) with o\'trlays of brightly colored Mexican serape;; hrightly-colored linen napkins lied with raffia.
L'Irge cacti in pots with raffia ties, surrounded with rivcr rocks and sand. Celllerpiece,~.·
FIGtlRE
36,2
Buffet, table al/d room decortlliOl/s: pinatas, sombreros, fresh chiles, brightlycolored paper flowers, brighdy-colored paper mache vegetables, raffia, small potted cacti in turquoise-painted terra coila PO"· Service ware.' copper or beaten lin trars, copper chafing dishes, wooden or earthenware bowls and platters.
brighlly-colored china (red, yellow and/or turquoise). hammered stainless steel nmware and Mexican green or blue glass stemware.
Oil/l1em 'llre:
JllII~'ic:
strolling mariachi band,
Wllil SNiff IIIli/orms: jeans ,md white shirts with a colored serape over the shoulders.
Afex;ClIII Fiesta
on the first sl
BUFFET PRFSENTA710N
A OOUBLE-SIOEO BUFFET TABlE TO FEED
buH'et l:Ib1t Serpentine table, SWIdard stu b. Round table. 7l incb di:uneter l. fl:l!oA"are roUed In lillfll napkins 2._
Tb( kry for !he L
3. Crudiw!s ..... Sun·Dried Tomalo Oip S. Trl..::olored TmtiUa Olips 6. fresh TomalO-Qlamro SalS:l 7. Zesty Guacamole 8. Sour Crealn 9. OIorizo OIm Con Queso
~
1105
12 5 PEOPLE.
10. Oiafing dish. of Blue Coro and Shrimp Tanules ....itll Cilanlro Cretm II . ClWing dish. of Soft Pori< Tacos 12. (".bating dish of Soft Oll~ken Tacos 13. CenICfJll«t 14. Queso Blanco 15. An~bo·Chile lloneySauce 16. Tomato Cilantro!Wsa 17. Avocad
OJiIDichangas
feet long. If extremely I:\rge centerpieces are used or if food is presented on oversized planers, this will, of course, affect the to(al table space needed. 3. Reach-Try to place all foods within easy reach of the diners. Try to avoid stacking one item behind another. But if i1ems must be placed fan her back on Ihe lable, try setting them on risers or on pedestals in order 10 add height to the planer. 111is extra height not only adds visual interest, it allows the diner to reach over the dish in front withollt disturbing its arrangement. Also, if possible, place foods that will not drip or splatter behind ones that will; that way, sa lice from the back dish will nO( drip into the
20. lIabei1ero SaU(c 2 J. De;sen p1:ues 22. froll Sabd 23. I'taners of Cookies and TaJU l 4. Coffee cups
21. Swetlencrs Nole; Beers and lIines lIin be alllIJable:u a se,-
ar.lIe bar; soft drinks "iU be In pilchers on tile tables and replenlstw.od boj wall SIaIJ.
Riser-bates (i1/d/ldillg lbe pIosIic crtlll's used 10 sJore gUlsstmre) CQI"eret/ uTlh IinerlS, paper or OIber dea)rlllil'f! ilerllS IIlId lIS(!(/ all II b/lffet /(Ibfe
as (I ~ for pit/lim,
IrIl)"S or dispk/)"s.
1/06
CIW'l,;n 36
front dish on its way to the diner's plate. Trays wilh foods that will nOi shifi can be propped at a slight anglc to make the contents more accessible 300 altradive.
4. Accompaniments-Place the appropriate garnishes, s.'mces or other a~ panimems near their principal foods. Also, place a small plate or napkin near a plaucr for any serving utensils. 5. Ccmerpieces-A cemerpiece brings focus to the buffet and its height a dominance increases the visual appeal of the overall table design. A ceo. tcrpiece can be a floral arrangement or a sculpture made of ice, 1311~. pastillage, chocolate, blown or pulled sugar or other materiaL Or the U'I)o tcrpiece can be a grosse piece such as a whole roaSt turkey or wilde poached salmon decorated with cha ud froid sauce. See Chapter 27. CItlr· CUlerie. 6. Decorations-I n addition to the cente rpiece, other nonedible objects or props may grace the buffet table. Sometimes, these
Displa)' o/Fresh Fmit (llId Bren(/jor
Smut,,), Brllllc/J Buffet 7be P!xJe1/icf(m, ScoIISd(//e, Al
BUFFET PRESENTAJ10N
1107
DtcoR lillells: buffet and dining tables
draped with blue denim tablecloths and red bandanna overlays; cobalt and red linen napkins with sil\'f!r cow head napkin rings. Cellterpieces: fresh flowers (daisies, red mums ~nd }'l'Hnw
lilies), decorated \\ith barbed wire (dulled) and raffia.
Buffet, table ({lid room decorations: lanterns, horseshoes,
cowbells, miniature hay bales, leather saddles, saddle blankets and western rope. Seroice //Iare: tin and copper trays
and copper chafing dishes, earthenlI'are bowls. Dillneni'are: cobalt china on tin
chargers, hammered stainless steel flatware and cobalt-rimmed sternware. Music: CoUnlry and Western band. Ir'i"lit staff IIIlI/orms: cowboy and
cowgirl OlufilS.
A SL'"Gl.E-SIDED aUfn:-T TABLE DIVIDED I~"O TWO ZONES TO
j . I'I:ild
i Fruil &dad FIll1£ 36.3
PEOPI.F..
,
b
ThI' Iw)' for ~IC buffl1 table a. RectaIlgu!:tr l.l~. 8 feel X30 Inchts b. Qwner·round tdJIc, 30 Iodl!";ldius ('. lIaIf·round tabI~, jO Ineb r:adius I CtI1terpicce l l'rot> or decorat1oll
n:w 150
S. Com, Tomalo and Co!lfclU Pepper 6. 7. 8. 9.
""'
GriUed \'egcubIe P1allCl" OWing dW1 oICom on lbeCob Chafing m:lh 01 Grilled Pntuoes Ned Chile SourCn.·am
10. BUller I I. Prop or dro'lr:lllon
Ires/em /Jarbeclle Bllffe/
,
12. Chaling dish of B:U"Il\.'Cued Chicken Ij. flOUT T(lrtilias
14. OtJingdisb ofSe~rYorkSlrip Slelk IS. Oalpocle lime S:wce 16. South\\"~em IIt.tnW.$e 17. Pnlfl or decoration 18. Hesse" plal1'S 19. SlnwbmyRhutnmTans
20. llrollnlcs 21 . m~ckllcrf)' Cobbler l2. Vanilla &an Icc Creun Nolt!: &eD md ...ines ..iU be ZI-ailabIe
:u I separae b:ir. soli drinks ...ill be in pilchers on ~\e table and n'(llenlshed ~' the wail staIJ: coffee "iU be (l/Jercd 11)' drrul~ting wail suIf.
II 08 ""'-
CIIAPl1!R 36
~u ~
f!jJ"t/e"ec/:;!Cm, d' (Jell/lP1'e Red Potatoes with Gorgonzola, Bacon and Wall/llts MJlslm)onl Phyllo TriQflgles
STATION
ONE:
Tropical Fruit Display
Caesar Salad with Herbed CroutOIlS Iwd Shredded PannI!SQn
Snlad of Bibb Lettuce Qnd Blue Cheese with (ilnls Vinaigrette Platter oj Assorted Plites, Gn/antilles and Ballotines Assorted Rolls with Sweet and Flavored Butters Tiered Display of Imported ChetSl!S including: $tilton, Saint Andre, Port Sa/ut, Gouria, Black Diamond Cheddar and Brie Baked il' Phyllo with Apricots and Fresh Bnsi/, Garnished with Apple Slices Qnd Grape Clusters Laoosh and Cmcker Bread
fbpovers with Shrimp and a,ive Filling Aspamgus Spears tied with Red Pepper
STATION Two: Alltipasto of Assorted Salami, Proscil/llo, Sliced Cheeses, Marinated Mushrooms and Artichokes, O/iues, Roasted Peppers and Wedges of Papa!la, Melon and Mango Wrapped with Prosciutto Ibme with Fresh Tomatoes and Basil Tossed with Extm Vi'1P" Olive Oil Cheese-filled Tortellilli with Wild Mushroom Alfredo SaIla' Pastas Preparrd to Ordrr by the Chef Wheel of PamleSl1II Focaccia, Gar/ie Twists, Breadstieks and Assorted Rolls Sweet mId Flauored Butters
STATION FOUR:
Three-Tiered Weddillg Cake bellom layer - Black Forest middle la!ler - White Cake with White Chocolate Mousse, Stmwberries alld Chocolate Qwaehe top layer- Carrol Cake Petit Fours Fmit Tartlels Chocolate-Dipped Strawberries Fre11dl Roast Coffee alld Hot Tea with Dell/xe COl1diments
STATION TH REE:
Herb-Rubbed, Grilled Tenderloin afBeef Olroed by Iht: Chef with Beamaise Sauce a"d Sage-Merlot Sauce Assorted Ralls with Sweet and Flavortd Butters ChickClI Salay with Chile Peanut Sarlee Grilled Shark with Toll/Millo Sauce
Assorted Beers, Alcoholic Beverages, Still mId Sparklillg Willes, Spark/illg Wuter and $oft Drinks
• ========= ~, ========= DJiCOR
lil/ens: buffet and dining tables draped with floor-length
i~'ory
linens with overlays of tulle and lace, accented with gold ribbons and tassels; linen napkins tied with ribbons and ta5Sels, and decorated with flowers.
Centerpieces and decorations/or tbe bllffet stations (lnd ,/ining tables: fresh fl()\\."ers (calla lilies, while orchids, roses, tulips, i~)' and greenery) and candles (\'Otives, pillars or hurricanes) wrapped in ivy.
FIGURE
36.4 FOrllwllf'eddillg Buffel
Service u.Jtlre: fancy silver and mirror trays, silver chafing dish· es, china or glass bowls.
Dinnerware: iI'of)' gold-rimmed china on gold chargelS, sill'€r flatware and gold- rimmed stemware.
Jl/llsic: harpist, \~olinist or quartel Ifni! staff lI11iforms: tuxedos.
BUFFET PRESBNTAnON C"'\!\..
A FOUR-$[.mON BUFFET (INCLUDING TWO STAFFED BY CHEF'S) TO fEED
200
J109
PEOPLE.
~ :®
"~ The key fur stllion 0IIe: :l RowxI rabie, ninth d!ameIer
B08® U(0® \;01
00 r @(0 [J8/ "~
2
@'Z)
2. Ceruerplece 3. Tropical Fruit Display
4. CaesarSallid S. Basket of Rolls 0'.'crfl01l1ng omo the table
}
6. 7. 8. 9. 10. II.
Sweet and f1a\'OmI Butter,; Bibb Lelluce Salad CiltUS Vinaigrette Plallet of Pi~, GaJan~nes and BaIIotines flaskClS of LaI'OSh and Cracker Bmds Tiered Cheese Display
,
, ,
The key for 5lalIon ho"O:
The key for SI:lIloo three:
a. Serpentine table. standard silt b. Olef's swlon J.
2. l
••,.
""~
"',""'"
AmI""" Chafing dlsh of Penne Pasta
grilled chicken, walnuts, peas, I'02SIed bell peppersaJld sbrimp and :>:lUces for the pasill incIudIng Alfredo and 1011\210 b:tsil 8. Large hollowed wheel of
"'""~
Chafing dish of O'lCese Toneilfnl SUWle burners fOT chef
9 Balikel of GarUc '\\lists,
[0 order IndulUng mushrooms,
10.
6. 7.:. Garnishes for the p:lSLlS made
focacda, Dreadsticks
a. RecwtguI:u tlble. 6 feet 1 30
6. Olaling dish of OIicken Sala)' 7. ChUe I'e:inU[ Sauce
b.
,.
."'"
I.
2.
""'~
Deco~km
8. Baskft of AS.Soned Rolls
SWeet :and fb,l)red Buuers 10. Carling $l:Ition 'liilh ben lamp for the Tm(\erioin of Beef II. Sagt!·Merlo! Sauce II. &!amalse Sauce
or prop
l Chafing di>h or Shark TomaUIlo Sauce S. Centerpie.:c
••
A5S0ned ItoU~ "and FIaltJred Buners
,
~'weet
,
The ktr for SWioIl four. $. Round table, 481nd! diameter b. Sl:'rpentine table, SUfldard sIu: ]. ThIt('·1ien!d Wedding Cake
2. C:1ke and dlS5ert plate; J. prol FoulS 4. Frul111rtl1:'l$
S. OJoroble..Oipped Slr;Jwbemes 6. Tra)' of coI!ec mugs 7. Canfe ofllot Water IIith Assoned
Tn "'" 8. Urn of Regular Colfet! ? Garnishes for Coffee Including r:l.W
sugar cubes, artifkbl S\\-ee\CIlers, emili, ...1tipped cream, c;mdled cilnlS petI, mini S\\inIe sticks, dnnamoo slicks, rork·wgar StIcks and cbocolale shalinss 10. Urn of Oecaffein3led Co[rt
Notl: Soh drinks as ..."dl as assorted lIines, bfm and Olher alcoholic be\'. mges IIill be :lI".Ii1ab1e at a.separ.i1l.' bar; spMkling II'Mt!", assoned II~ and c/wnp33lle"ill be5tr\ro by 1M ...".IitsWl'.
I I/O
CliAPTEK 36
PRESENTING AND MAINTAINING THE B UFFET .n-, Portioning Foods A common problem when planning a buffet is overproduCiion. Many nQ\"ire chefs want to make enough of each menu item to serve the entire group. BIJ this is unnecessary. Most people tend to sample a lillIe from many dishes and try not to gorge themselves. Some chefs use a simple, although far from foolproof, formula of I pound (450 grams) of food per person as a starting point and then adjust this number depending upon fa ctors such as the general composition of the group (a luncheon for femal e executives may require less fOlXi than one for male football players), the number of items offered (the more dishes to choose from, the smaller the portions most people will take), the stmcture of the event (that is, whether it will be convenient for people to return to the buffet for second helpings), and whether diners serve themseh·es or 3Te served by wait staff or chefs at the buffet. Generally, portions should be small, especially if more than one item is served in each food category. For example, if a grilled salmon fillet with lr·
====== ~
======
A BLOCX OF ICE, A OWN SAW,
A CHISEL A1\D A
tIm.e
Ice carvings hare long been popular buffet centeIpiece;; they add elegance and sophistka· lion 10 the selling and occasion. J,s \\im other arts, it may take )~ars to master ice cming. Nevertheless, \\ith some practice and care, rou can usually create acceptable ice sculptures after only a fel\' tries. Blocks of car.'ing ice are specially prepared 10 remol'e air bubbles. These large blocks f20 in. x 10 in. x46 in. (50cm x 25crn x lIS cm)] weigh approximatel)· 300 pounds (J3S kilograms), and special ice lOngs and caution are reqUired when handling Ihem. At O°F (-BeC). ire is \"el)' brittle and diffi· cult 10 car.~ without breaking. l11erefore. calV· ing ice must be tempered before carving. To temper the ice, remO\"C it from the freezer and allow it to ~ at room temperature for 3pproximately one hour. ~"hen the surface is clear of fM!, car.'ing can begin. ASingle cming can take from one toseo.m hours In complete. Although chisels and specially desjgned saws for ice caning work quite \\"ClI,chain sav.s areoommonJ)' used 10 speed up the process. Because ma;t carving is done indoors, electric S3\\S are used and. unlike gas
CUff/ON AND Ciu..-tTI"m'
they do not lea\~ :l greasy reskllie 00 tbe Ice's surface. Be \~ry careful when using~' chain s:\w. ]larticularly an electric one artlIJl.t melting ice and pools of water. To begin. trace the outline of the figure)w
S"\\'S.
want \0 C:ll"l'e on the surface of all four sidesd the block of ice. There are 5e\'eraJ exceUel1l itt carving books, some of which provide swx:ils for Ihis purpose. TIlen start remOl'ing the ice using a large saw or a chainsaw. kJ the figure begins to take share, use smaller chisels aOO specialized tools to create the desired effect. Sorne C:m-efS use chain 5alOS for the enlUt process, hoY.'e\"er. After some practice, )'OU will deYelop )'Ott {J',\1l style and pref~ '.fhen the caning ~ complete, canfuiI?' return the ice 10 Ute frrezer until oo:On When selling it on a buffet, It't a pan ~ signed 10 hold an ice car.ing aM pn:r.li drainage. Amid placing ice sculptures uOOer hot air vents. AI room tempera1llre and Mage humidity, ice melts aJ the r:ue d :It proxilllalely 1/2 inch (1.25 centimeters) per hour from all side;. Keep this in miOO 110M! C
surface.
BUFFtT PRESENrAnoN
onnaise lX)tatoes :tnd a medley of sauteed vegetables were served as :10 entrl'C off of:1Il a b ctne menu. a lypiC'JI serving would be 6 ounces (180 grams) of fish. 4 ounces (120 gram.s) of lX)t3!O :tnd 4 ounces (120 grams) of vegetables. If the s:unc 5:llmon nllet wilh ils accomp:mimems were ser..ed as one of three entri."CS on a dinner buffel for 100 people. the total of available fish should be 2 10 3 ounces (60 to 90 grams) of fish per portion multiplied by 100 portions, I to 1.5 ounces (30 to 45 grams) of potatoes per portion multiplied by 100 portions :md Jounce (30 grams) of vegetables per portion (diners tend to t:lke smaller portions of \'egellibies than of starches) multiplied br 100 portions. Similarly, if;1 dessert tart from :m ii l:l carte menu had a 4-inch dbmeter. the \'ersion offered on a dessert buffet should have a 2-inch diameter. Experience suggests th:ll most diners tend to serve themselves larger portions of foods found ilt the stan of Ihe buffet th:!n at its middle. TIlus, if clvi:lr is being served, it may make economic sense to place it somewhere fanher down the line th:m at the st:l n of the buffet.
Presenting Hot Foods Ket.'ping hot foods hot on a buffet is a p.1nicular challenge, :tnd an import:lnt one, for lX)th food 5:lfety and presentation concerns. If possible, hot foods should be served in relatively small quantities on wann plallers that are exch:mged frequently. This is nO( always possible, however. More often, hot foods are maintained in chafing dishes or under heat lamps. To maintain the quality of foods kept in a chafing dish, you should: Choose foods th:ll hold well. Rare mealS and delicate pastas do not hold well in a chafing dish: they become o\'errooked and unallmdive quickly. Instead, try braised mealS (which may llctuaUy benefit from the extended cooking) or hC3rty pastas sllch as tonellini or penne. 111is guideline also applies to g:lrnishes: bunches of delicate herbs such as basil do not do well in a chafing dish: inslelld. try sprigs of rosemary or thyme . • Cook sm:lll llmounlS of delicate foods at a lime and change the insert pan in a clllLfing dish often. This prevenlS foods from sitling too long . • L1d!e a small amount of s:lUce in the botlom of the pan before placing sliced meats in the 1':111, or, serve slice meats, poultry or fish on a bed of \·egetables. The sauce or the vegetable bed helps to absorb the heat from the chafing dish, insulating the more delicate items and providing a bit of steam to help keep the foods moist. + Keep the chafing dish closed whenever possible. This holds in the steam, which helps keep the food moist But a closed chafing dish distraClS from a buffel's appeal and slows down the flow of diners through the buffet line. +
Heat lamps are generally used for keeping large cuts of mealS or poultry waml during carving. 111ese foods, howe\'er, become dry rapidly and should be replaced periodiCllly. Of course. time and temperarure principles of food safety must also be followed.
Presenting Cold Foods Keeping cold foods cold on :l buffet table is a little less of a challenge. As with hot foods, it is besl if cold foods are served in relali\'ely small quantities on cold planers that are exchanged frequently, Alternatively, the items can be set on a bed of ice-usually :1 la rge lX)wl filled with ice imo which a smaller bowl containing Ihe food is placed.
• 1/1/
/JiSpltl)' ofFb'b m}(1 Sbellfisb for SIIIU/a)' iJrulicb IJlljJel 7be J1mllicitlll, Srolls(/(lle, AI
1112 ~ CHAFfER36
Replenishing Foods Dishes from the buffet table should be removed when they are approximatei two-thirds empty or have deteriorated in some fashion (for example. the 3.": on pates has softened, cut [nlils have browned or a hot food has CruSled OI'efL Once the old dish has been removed, its fresh replacement should be on the buffet immediately, and it should be as carefully arranged and pnished as the original. If items from the old dish are \0 be combined with dr
replacement dish, this should be done in the kitchen and not al the buffd: table.
Serving Foods Once the banquet or restaurant manager has completed the planning for a Wfct, it usually falls to a captain to supervise the actual even!. The captain direelS the crew setting up the room as well as the stewards who bring the foo! flatware, china and glassw~He from the kitchen to the buffet. The captain also supervises the wait staff. One of the front waiters' prirJcl. pal responsibilities is to maintain the appearance of the buffet and to rep1enish items as needed. Depending on the function, from waiters can be stationed behind the buffet table to serve diners; circulate in the crowd with trays ri hors d'oeuvre or drinks (passing foods in this fashion is called butler senitt!. or serve beverages to diners seated at the dining tables. Back waiters generallt police the room and dear tables. They should be pllrticularly vigilant in ~ moving used plates from a dining table afler a diner has gone 10 the buffet fer more food and before he or she returns to the dining table with a new plait Typically, servers or chefs are only placed at stations where foods are p~ pared or carved to order. This helps to control portioning. It also provide<; ~ greller opportunity for staff to police the buffet and therefore ensure that the table and the individual items remain neat, aUmctive and fresh. Finall),. placing wait staff or kitchen staff at the buffet allows diners to ask questions al:ru the foods presented.
A buffet is more than a salad bar at a restaurant-thal is, merely food laid III for the diner to grab. A buffet is an opportunity for a chef 10 use his or her creativity to plan and present an entire menu in an attmctive fashion. BUI fer a buffet to succeed, it requires careful planning, anemion to detail and tlr help of many professionals in the food services facility.
r;j2UE5TIONS FOR DISCUSSION 1. What is a grosse piece? How is it differem from a centerpiece? 2. What fo<xl 5<1fety and sanitation factors must be considered when planning a buffet? Explain your answer. 3. Describe three things that can be done to keep hQ{ foods attractive and fresh when using a chafing dish. 4. Describe {wo things that can be done to keep cold foods cold on a buffet. 5. List five different stations serving hot foods at :1 buffet and the equipment necessary for each. 6. Redesign the Western-themed buffet in Figure 36.3 to include three statioru.
PPENDIXi
ROFESSIONAL RGANIZATIONS The Americall Cheese Society
Club Managers Association ofAmerica (OlMA)
W7702 Count)' RO:ld
1733 King Street
Darien, WI 53 [14
Alexandria, VA 22314
(414) 728-4458 hnp:// w\Vw .cheesesocict}' .org
(703) 739-9500
International Association o/Culinaryl Professionals American Culinary Federation, Illc. (A GF) 10 S:m B<mol:t Drive SI. Augustine, FL 32086 (904) 824-4468
(IACI1 304 \'('est Liberty Street, Suile 201 Louisville, KY 40202
hnp:!lwww.acfchefs,org
(502) 581-9786 http://www .iacp-online.org
The American Dietetic Association (ADA)
International Foodservice Executives Association
216 \X'est J:Lckson mvd.
1100 SOlLth State Road '17, Suite 103 l\'I:Irg:uc, FL 33068
Chicago, II. 60606-6995
(J12) 899-0040
American/llslillite o/Baking (AlB) P.O. Box 3999 ;\lanh:lltan, KS 66505-3999 (785) 537-4750 hnp:/lwww.aibonline.org
TbeAmel'ical1 Institute o/Wil1e & Food (AlllIP)
(954) 977-0767
Tbejames Beard Foulldatioll 167 \'(rest 12th Street New York, NY 10011
(212) 675-4984 hUp:/ /www.jamesbeard.org
les Dames d'EscoJJier International P.O. Box 2103
1550 Bryant Street, Suite 700 San Francisco, CA 94103 (415) 255-3000
Reston, VA 20195-0103 (703) 716-5913 hUp:/ /ldei.org
Chefs CollaixJralive 2000
les Toques Blallcbes lilt.
25 First Street Cambridge, MA 02141
P.O. Box 954
(617) 621-1136
ForeSI Park , GA 30298 (770) 960-1050 /113
1114
APPENDlY I
Na/ionallce Garoing Association
S/)are Ollr Sirellgi/) (SOS)
P.O. Box 3593 Oak Brook , Il 60522-3593
1511 K Sueet, N.W., Suite 940 Washinglon, DC 20005·1414
(630) 871-8431
(800) %9-4767
National Restaurant Association 1200 17th Sireet. NW WlIshinglon, DC 20036
(202) 331-5900 hnp:llwww.restaur:tnt.org
Oldways PresenJatioll & Exc/xmge Trust 25 First Streel Cambridge, MA 02141
(6 17) 62 1-3000
u. S. PastryAl/ial1ce 3349 Somerset Trace Marienll , GA 30067 (770) 980-0071 hup:!/www,uspastry.org
us. Personal Cbe/Association. 3615 Highway 528, Suite 107 Albuquerque, NM 87 114·8919 (800) 995-2138
hup:llwww.uspca.com
R01l1l(ltable/or Womell ill Poodservice (RWF)
Women GIJe/s and Restaurateurs (lVCR)
3022 W, E:Istwood Ave. Chicago, IL60625
110 SUller Street, Suite 210 San FrJncisco, CA 94104
(3 12) 463-33% hl1p:llwww.rwf.org
(4 15) 362-7336
PPENDIXll
EASUREMENT AND ONVERSION c"\!\. MEASURJ<:MENT CoNVERSION CHART
..J7")
Formulas for Exact !\'Ieasures When you know:
Multiply by:
To find:
Mass
Qunces
(\X'eight)
pounds grams kilograms
28.35 0.45 0.035
kilograms
Volume (Capacity)
ounces
2.2
pounds
quans gallons milliliters
5.0 15.0 29.57 0.24 0.47 0.95 3.785 0034
milliliters milliliters milliliters liters liters liters liters
I oz.
fluid ounces
B oz.
Fahrenheit Celsius
5/9 Cafter subtracting 32) Celsius 9/ 5 (then add 32) Fahrenheit
te:lspoons tablespoons fluid ounces
cups pints
Temper~ilure
grams
~ CoNVERSION GUIDHINES ~ I gallon
I fifth bottle
ROUNDED MEASURES fOR QUICK REFERENCE n-,
36 oz,
• .. .. " lib. .. - 2 lb. .. • 2 1/ 4 lb.•
1/ 4 lSp. 1/2 {Sp.
.. 1/24 oz ... 1 ml .. 1/ 12 oz ... 2 ml
liSp.
.. 1/6 oz.
16 oz. 32 oz.
30 g 120 g 225 g 450g 900g 1000 g (I kg)
.. 5 Illi
4 quans 8 pinls 16 cups (8 ounces) 128 ounces
.. 1/2 oz. .. 15 rul Ie. -80z. -250m] 2 c. (I pt.) .. 16 oz. .. 500 ml 4c.(1 'It.) -320z. -lit 4qt.(l g:lI.)-12802. -33/41(
1 measuring cup
I 1/2 pinls or exactly 26.5 ounces holds 8 ounces (a coffee cup generally holds 6 ounces)
I large egg white
I ounce (average)
llemon
I to 1 1/ 4 ounces or juice
lorange
3 to 3 1/2 ounces or juice
approximate
1 TIJSp.
/115
1116
APPENDIX II
'""'- ScOOP SIZES .n.. Scoop Measure
Level Measure
6 8
213 cup 1/2 ClIp 215 cup 1/3 cup 1.4 cup 3 1/5 tablespoons 2 213 tablespoons 2 1/5 tablespoons 1 3/5 tablespoons
10
12 16 20 24 30 40
I
The number of the scoop detemlines the number of servings in Clch quart of a mi..XIUTe. for example. with a No. 16 scoop, one quart of mixture will yield 16 servings.
-, '
'""'- LWLE SIZES .n.. Portion of a Cup
Size I oz.
2 oz.
2 213 oz.
1/8 1/4 1/3
4 oz.
1/2
6 oz.
3/4
Number
Number
per Quart
per Liter
32 16 12 8 5 1/3
J4 17 13 86 5.7
~ CANNED GOOD SIZES ~ No. of Cans
per Case
Size No.
1/2
No. I tall (also known as 3(3) No. 2 No. 2 1/ 2 No. No. No.
3 3 cylinder 5
No. 10
l'(trlolls sl(IIl(/(ml cmls-(Iefllo rlgbl, frolll roW) No. 114, No. II2j1al, (middle row) No. 112, No. I lall, No. 300, (back row) No. 5, No. 3 qlilltler, No. 10.
8 2 & 4 doz. 2 doz. 2 doz. 2 doz. I doz.
I doz.
6
AverJge Weight
Average No. Cups per Can
8 oz. 16 oz.
1
20 oz.
2I2
28 oz.
3 1!
33 oz. 46 oz. 3 lb. 8 oz. 6 lb. 10 oz.
4
523 5 12
13
IBLIOGRAPHY AND ECOMMENDED EADING Gb'ERAL L\'fEREST Bickel, Walter, L-d. and 1r.1115. Hen'lIg:S Dictiollal}' oj C/{lSS;Cl// and Modem Coollery. 12th Eng. ed. lOndon: Virtue & Company limited, 199 1. Culina!Y in stitute of America. tbe
A'ew Projessiolltll Cbef 6th cd. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold. 1996. D:m'SOn, ll:tnndorc. Gmlt Food for Gre(j/ Numbers. New York, Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1991.
Rombauer, Inna von Starkloff and Marion Rombauer Becker. Joy of Cooking New York: l11e Bobbs·Merrili Co., Inc., Macmillan, 1975. Saulnier, Louis. I.e Rt!pertoire de La Cllisi'le. Rev. cd. New York: Barron's Educational Series, Inc., 1976. Willan, Anne. La Varelme Pratiqlle. New York: Crown l'ublishers,
1989
E:;rofficr. Auguste. 1£ Gui(le CIlIiJ/{/ire. (Translation entitled 100 Es-
FOOD HISTORY
coffier Cookbook {lnd Guide 10 the Fille Art 0/ Cooi.>el}' for COIInoisseurs, Chefs, Epicllres.) New York: Crown Publishers, 1969. Cisslen. Wayne. ProjessiOlltll Baking. 2nd to-d. New York: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1993- - . ProjessiOlw/ Cooking 3rd ed. New York: John Wiley & Sons. Inc., 1995. liaines. Robert G. Food Preparation. Homewood, Ill.: American Technical Publishers. Inc., 1988. K3m!ll.;ln. '\I:ldclcine. The New Makill8 oj a Cook. New York: William Morrow and Co., Inc., 1997. l.:!bensky, Sleven. Gaye G. Ingram and Sarah R. !.:lbensky. Webster's Nell' Ifbrld DictiOl/ary of Clllil/ary Art.t Upper Saddle Rivcr N.J.: Prentice Ibl1, 1997. Lang, Jennifer Hiuvey, (:d. Ulrol/sse Gaslronomit/lle. American cd. New York: CTO\yn Publishers. [nc., 1988. Leilh. I'nle. 7be Cook's I-/mu/book. New York: A & W Publishcrs, [nc., 1981. ~1oIt, Mary and Grace Shugan. Footl for Hfty. 10th t.'
Coe, Sophie D. and Michael D. 71Je Tme History ofCboco/me. New
York: llJames and Hudson [nc., 1996. Fussell. Betty. The Slory of Com New York: Borzoi Books, Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., 1992. Hale, William Harlan and The Editors of Hori7.on Magazine. 7be Horizon Cookbook and IIIlIstrated His/ory of Eatill8 ami Drink· ill8 7brollSb tbe Ages. New York: American Heritage Publishing Co., [nc. , I%S. Mintz, Sidney W. Sltmlles-S arId Power: tbe Place of Sligar in Mot/ern His/ory. New York: Viking Press, 1995. Norman, Barmra. Tales of the Table: A History of lJ'e.item Cllisille. EnglC\\'ood Cliffs, NJ.: Prentice·Hall, 1972. Revel, Jean-Fran~ois. CU/lUre and Cuisine. (Trans. of UII "estill ell paroles..) New York: Da Capo Press, [nc., 1982. Rupp, Rececca. BIlle Com alld Square Tomatoes. Pownal, VI.; Gar· den Way I'ublishing, 1987. Schlossberg. Eli w. The lJbrld of Ortbodo.l: judaism. North\-ale, N.J. : Jason Aronson, [nc., 1996. Schremp, Gerry. Kitcben Cuill/fe; Fifty rears of Food Fa{is. New York: Pharos Books, A Scripps Howard Co., 1991. Shapiro, !.:lura. Peifectioll Salmi: lJbmen mid Cooking at lbe 7iml of the Celltury. New York: Farrar, StrJ\ls and Giroux, 1986.
1117
11/8
BIBIJOGRAPfI)'
Tannahill, Re~y. Food /1/ Histor)'. Rev. t:d. New York: Crown Publishers, [nc., [995. TouSS3im-Sam:lI, Maguelonne. A Histor)' of Food. Translated by Anthea Bdl. Dmbridge, Mass.: Blackwell Publishers. 1992. Wheaton, U:umra Ketcham. S(lt'On'lIg tbe Pasl: 1be Frellcb Kitcbell ami Tttble from ljOO 10 1789. Reprint ed. New York: TouchSlone Books, 1996. '-'"'illan, Anne. Grefll Cooks ami Their Necipes: From Taillnoelll to Escoffier. Boston: linle, Brown and Co., A Bulfinch Press Book. [992.
SANITATION AI\'!) SAFETY Thc EduC"Jtiorul Foundation of the National ReStaurant Associa· tion. Applied Footisel'1J/ce San/taIlOIl: A Foulldm/OII TexllxxJk. 4th ed. john Wiley & Sons. Inc .. 1992. Imern:uional Life Sciences Institutc. A Simple Guide /0 Unders/andillg al/d Applyil'8 lbe Hazard Analysis Cn'lical COlltrol Poilll COI/Cepl. WashinglOn D,c.: [LSI Press, 1993, National AssesSnlClll Institute. Handbook for Safe Food Setvice Mmwgemelll, 2nd ed. Upper Saddle Rh'er, NJ: Prentice Hall, 1997.
Nm RITION Drummond, Karcn E, Nllirilioll for lbe Foodservice Professiollal. 3rd ed. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1996. Fre}Uerg, Nicholas and Willis A. Ganner. 1be Food Ad(litiws Book. New York: Bantam Books, Inc., 1982. Netzer, Corinne T. 1be Corill lle T. Netzer Ellc)'c/opetlia of Food 1'i11/Ji~s. New York: Dell Publishing, 1992.
EGGS, DAIRY AND CHEESE Bristow, Unda Ka)" Bread aud Break/ast. San Ramon. Calif: WI Productions, 1985. Hggc)'c/opetlia. 2nd ed. Park Ridge, III.: American Egg Boont Jrvised [989. jenkins, Steven. SIl'/.'en jenkills ' CIx"l'SC Primer. New York: \ftd· man Publishing Co., 1996. jones, Evan. tbe Ir'orld of Cbef!se. New York: Alfred A. Krq{
1984. Kolpas, Norman. Breakj(w lind Bnmcb &Jok. los Angeles: tIP Books, 1988. Kotschc\'Jr. Lendal H, Short Order Cooking. New York: Van ~ trand Reinhold, 1990. Marquis. Vivienne and Patricia Haskell. The Cbeese Book. &!I' York: Simon & Schuster, 1985, Masui, Ka7.uko and Tomoko Yamada. Frel1ch Cbeesl!S. Nell' York Darli ng Kindersley, Inc " ~ 19%,
FOOD ScIENCE Corriher, Shirley O. Cooklltise. New York: William i\lorrow and Co.. Inc .• 1997. Freeland-Graves. H. and Gladys C. Peckham. F()/mdaliol/sqfFootl Preparation 5th ed. N('W York: Macmillan. 1987. McGee, Harold. On Food ami Cooking. New York: Charles &ID ner'S Sons, 1984. McWilliams, i\h rgaret. Food Fmul(lllumlals. 7th ed. Fullenon. Calif.: P1)'oon PI't.'SS, 1998. PotIer, Norm:ln N. Food Science. 5th ed. New York: Chapman & Hall Publishing Co.. [nc., 1995.
FOOD CoSTING AND M ENU P ruCING Labensky, Sarah R. App/if!ll Malb for Food Service. Upper Saddle River, N.J.: Prentice Hall, 1998. Miller. Jack E. Me'lII Prlcbl8 and Strategy. 4th t.-d, New York: Van N05u:md Reinhold, 1996, Schmidt, Mno, Chefs Book of Formulas, Yieltis, mI(l Sizes. 2nd ed. New York: Van Nos\rJnd Reinhold. 1996.
Tool.\ Bridge, Fred and Jean F. Tibbc1!s. '/1)1' IVell·Tooled Kitcben. New York: William Morrow and Co" Inc., 1991. GENERAL INGREDIENTS DeMers, john. 700 COImll/mlry Kilcbells Complete Gui(le to Col/rlllet Coffee. Ncw York: Simon & Schuster, 1986. Dowell, Philip and Adrian Bailey. Cook's Illgrediellls. New York: William Morrow and Co" [nc., 1980. jordan, Michele Anna, 1be Cootl Cook's Book of Oil (; Vinegar. Reading. Mass.: Addison-Wesley, 1992. Norman, jill. ]be Complete Book of Spices. American ed. New York: Viking Studio Books. J991. Ortiz, Elisabeth Lambt.-n. 1be Encyclopedia of Herbs. Spices and f7avori',gs. lSI Amt."Tican ed. New York: DorIing Kindersley, Inc., 1992. Schapira,Jocl and Karl Schapira . 7be Book ofCoffeemul Tea. New York: St. Martin'S Press, 1975. Schuler. Stanley, ed. Simon & Schl/ster's Gllide /0 Herbs alld SPices. New York: Fireside :lOd Simon & Schuster, 1m. Stoban, Tom. Herbs. Spices and Flavon'ngs. Woodstock, NoY.: The Overland Press, 1982,
STOCKS, SAUCF.5 AND SoUPS Cla)'ton, Ikrnard. ]be COII/piete Book oJ SoIiPS alld Slell'S. ~. York: Simon & Schuster, 1987. Davis, Deidre, A Fresh Look (1/ Sallcing Foods. Reading. MlS5.: Addison-Wesley, 1993, L1roUSSC, D~vid I'aul. 'I1)e Sallce Bible: Gllide to lbe Saucier's Craft· New York: john Wiley & Sons, [n c., 1993, Peterson, james. Saucl'S; Classical and Contempomry Sauce Making, New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold. 1991. Sokolov, Raymond A. '/1)e Sill/cler 's Apprelllicl'. New York: Alfre-:! A. Knopf, 1976.
M EAT The Editors of Time-life Ikloks. ]be Good Cook: Lamb. Londoo. Time Life International (Nederland) BY, 1981. The Editors of Time-Ufe Ik>oks. ]be Good Cook: Beef al/d II'al london: Time life International (Nederland) 8.V., 1978. Ellis, Merle, 1be Gmll Allleriam Meal Cookbook New York: Alfred A. Knopf. 1996. ]be Meat Buyers Gllitle. Reston, Va.: National Association of Meu Purveyors, 19')(), Thon1as, john R. and P. Thon1as Ziegler. Tbe ,Ileal Ire Ea/ Danville. III.: Interstate Printcrs & Publishers. Inc.. 1985. POUl.TRl'
TIle Editors of Time-life Ikloks, tbe Good Cook: Poliitry, Londor!; Time Ufe [nternational (Nederland) IlV. , 1978.
BIBIJIXlRAPIIY GAME C:Ulleron, Angus and judith Jones. tbe L.L. &(111 Gallle (///(1 Fish Cookbook. New York: Ibndom House, 1983Linle. Carolyn. The Gmlle Cookbook.. Wiltshire, Engl3nd: 1be Crowood )'ress, 1988. ,\1arronc. Tcres:l. DreSSillg alld CookillS lFikl Gallic. New York: Prenlice Hall Press, 1987.
FISII AND SI IEU.F1SH Cronin, 153:!e, Jay Harlow and P:1U1 john501l. tbe Cali/omia SAlfODd Cookbook. ikrkeley. Calif.: Harris Publishing Co., [nco (Mis Book~), 1983. Tbc !'Ish Lis/: FDA Gufde 10 Aecepwb/e M(lrkel l\ 'allles for Food PM SoM i1l flllerslme Commerce. \X'ashington. D.C.: U.s. Go\·crn· mem Printing Office, 1988. Jlow~rth, A. jan. The Complele Fish Cookbook. New York: 51. Mar· tin's Press, 19$3. King, Shirley. Fish. The Basics. Rev. and Upd:ued ed. New York: Ch:iplers ['ub[ishing l1d., 1996. - - . StlllcillS lhe Fish. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1986. Loomis, SUSl!Il Iicrrnlann. tbe GrM/ AmeriCtiIl Seafood Cookbook. New York: Workman I'ub[ishing Co.. 1988. .\lcCl3ne, A. J. The Encyclopedia of Fish COokeI)'. New York: Holt. Rmehan and Winston, 1989. 1bt> SeafOOll Halldbook.· SeafOOlI S/(/Ildards. Rockland, ~1:iine: Sl"3food Business Mag:tzine, 1991.
CllARClITERIE Tht Ediloo of Time-life Books. 1be Cootl Cook; Terrilles, Piites al1d (;alalllilles. London: Time life Internalional (Nederland) B.v.. 1981. Ehlen. Friedrich W., et al. PaIL's al/d Terrilles. Rcprint. London: Ikaflil (}ooks, 1990. Grigson. jane. The Art of Charm/erie. Reprint. New York The F.cho Press. 1991.
VEGETABLf.S A.lIID FRUITS Andrews. Jean. Peppers: TIle Domt'slicaled Capsicums. Austin, Tex.: UniversilY of Texas Press. I9&!. lI.1uer. Calhy and juel Andersen. The Tofll Cookbook. Emmaus. I'~.: Rodak Press, 1979. Brown. Marlene. II1Iel"/1(Itiollai Prodllce Cookbook ml(i Guide. los Angeles: HI' Books. 1989. !h\·idson. Alan. Fml/: A COlllloisseu r's Gllide alld Cookbook. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1991. DeWitt. Dave and Nancy Gerlach. The Whole Chile Pepper Book. iklston: little, Brown and Co.. 1990. 1I0hhaus. Fusako. Tofll Cookery. Tokyo: Kodansha InternalionaL 1992 ~hller, Mark, wilh John Hanisson. TI)e Great Chile Book. Ikrkdcy, C:lliL Ten Speed Press, 1991. ~lurdich, jack. BII);1I8 Protillce. New York: William Morrow and Co.. Inc., 1986. Pa)'ne. Rolce Redard and Dorrit Speyer Senior. Cookil18 If/itb FIlIi/. Nl'W York: Crescent Ikx>ks. 1995. Routhier. Nicole. /\"icole Routhier's fmit Cookbook. New York: Workman Publishing Co.. 1996. Schmidt. Jimmy. Cookillg For All StY/SOIIS. New York: Macmillan, 1991.
11 19
Schneider. Elil..abeth. UncommOIl Fmits alld l'egerabil'S: A CommOllsells(! Gllide. New York: William Morrow and Co.. [nc., 1998.
GRAINS AND PASTA Bugialli, Giuliano. 01/ Pas/a. New York: Simon & Schuster. 1988. Della Croce, julia. I'as/a Classiea. Reprint. San Francisco: Chronicle (}ooks, 1996. Gelles. Carol. tbe Comple/e Wbole Grain Cookbook. New York: Donald \. Fine, Inc .. 1991. Grecnt:'. Bert. The Graills Cookbook New York: Workman Publishing Co.. 1988. Kummer. Corby. -Pas!a.- TheAlifllllic, 258. no. 1 Quly 1986): 35-47. Leblang. Bonnie Tand)' and Joanne J...:llnb [·13Yl'S. Rice. New York: HamtOn)' Books. 1991. Spier. Carol. Food £sselllials: GmillS alld Pasta. New York: Crescent Books, 1993.
SAL\IlS AND SAUID DRESSINGS Biair, Eulalia C. Salads for POOl/sell'ice Mel/II PlaHllillg. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1988. Muller. Veronika. Stlla(is. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold. 1989. Nalhan, Amy. Salad. San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1985.
BRFADS Albright, B"rhlra and leslie \~leiner. MOS/~)' MI/./Jllls. New York: SI. Manin's Press, 1984. Alslon, Elil.abeth. Biscuits (/Il(l ScOl/es. New York: Clarkson N. POI' ter, Inc., 1988. Amendol3, Joseph. The Bakers ' Mallllaf. 4th ed. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1993Cbyton. Bernard. &rnart/ Clay/oil's Nell" Complete Book of Brf?(l(is. Rev. ed. New York: Fireside (}ooks, 1995. Cunningham. Marion. rbl> Fmmie Ftlrmer Bakillg Book. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1984. David. Elizabeth. EIISllsh Bread (ll/d )ee-ISI Cookery. NOles by Karen Hess. American ed. Nev.' York: The Viking Press, 1980. Jones, judilh and Evan jones. The Book of 81"('(Id. Reprint ed. New York: l-I ~rpcr & Row. 1986. Oniz. joe. 1be Village Baker: ClaSSic Regiollal Breads from Ellrope (111(1 America. Berkett.1', CaHf.: Ten Speed Pn..'SS, 1993. Wdner. Le.~lie and Barh:lra Albright. Simply ScOIlf!S. New York: St. Martin'S Press. 1988.
PASTRIES AND DESSERTS Blool11. CJroJe. The IlIlernariol/al DiCliOIl(/l)' of Desserts, Pas!n·es. (/lui COl/fceNol/s. New York: He~fSI Ikxlks. 1995. Braker. Ao. The Simple ArT of Perfl'" Baking. Shelburne, Vt.: Chaplers Publishing, lid., 1992:. Fletcher, Helen S. 7be Nell' P(ISfly Cook. New York William Morrow and Co.. [nc., 1986. Friberg. Bo. The Professiollal PllSIl)' Chef 3rd ed. New York: Van Nostrand Rcinhold. 1995. He"ly, Bmce :md Paul Bugat. Mastl'rillg /be AI1 of fi"ench Pas/ry. Woodbury, N.Y.: B.1rron·s, 1984. Uyman. Philip and Mary H)'man. Irons. The Res/ of GastOll umotre 's DcsseI1S. Woodbury. N. Y.: I3.1rron·s, 198.3london. Sheryl and Mel London. Fresh Fnllt DeSS<.'11S· Classic all(/ COIl/empomry. New York: Prenlice Hall Press, 1990.
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Purdy, Susan G. A PiKe oj cake. Reprint. New York: "!:lemillan, 1993. Roux. Michel and Alben Roux. The ROIIX BrQlbers 011 pa/i.sserie. New York: Prentice Hall Press, 1986. Sill'crton, Nancy. Desserts by Nallcy Sih'ertoll. New York: Harper & Row, 1986. Thuri ~s, Yves. The Classic alld COIl/emporary Recipes of l't'eS Thuries.· Frellch Paslry. New York: Van Nostr.tnd Reinhold, 1996.
HORS D'OEUVRE AND BU}"FI:TS GroI:Z, P<.1.er. Successful CoM Buffets. Nt........ York; Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1990. Jallt.'1icoo, Terence. The Book oj Grl'flt Hors (I"OerIl't"e. New York: Van Nostr.tnd Reinhold, 1990. Larousse. D~vid Paul. The Professiollal Garde Mfll/Bet". New York: John Wiley & Sons. Inc., 1996. Schmidl. Arno :md lnja Nam. The Book of Hors d'Oeuvre:; (llId Cmlllpes. New York: Van Noslr:md Reinhold. 1996. Sonnenschmidl. Frederic H. and John F. Nicholas. The ProfessiOllal C/w!s Art of Garde MallBer. 5th ed. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1993.
L\'TERNATIONAL CUJSl\"F.S &lyless. Rick. with Deann Groen Bayless. Allibemic Me.\icall: Regio/llI{ Cooklllg from the Heart of Me_\ico. New York: William Morrow and Co., Inc .. 1987. IJugialli. Giuliano. The Fille AI1 of Ualiml Cookillg. New York: Random House, 1990. C.1sas, Penelope . TIJe Foods alld \Villes ofS"aill. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 199 1. Downer. Lesley. AI Ibe japallese Tab/e. San Ff:.l.t1cisco: Chronicle Books. 1993. Firain, Manincl. C/(LSSic Spallish Cookillg with Cbef Ef. Los Angeles: lowell House, 1993. Field, Carol. Qfebralin8 Italy. New York: William Morrow and Co., Inc., 1990. Gin. Maggie. Regional Cook/llg of Cbillo. San Frnncisco: 101 Productions, 1984. Hazan. Marcella. Essell/i(I/s of C{(lssic if(lli(lII Cooking. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1993 Jaffrey, Madhur. All IIIVilalioll 10 Illdiml Cookillg. New York: Vintage !kKIks, 1973. Kasper, lynn RoSSCIto. The Sple/Ufid Table: Recipes from EmiliaROII/U8I1a Ihe Heartlalld of Northerl/ /Ialiall Food. New York: William Morrow and Co.. Inc.. 1992. Kennedy, Diana. The Cuisines oj Mexico. Rev. ed. New York: Harper & Row, 1986. 1.0, Kennl.1.h. The Ellcydopetlia oj Cbillese Cook/llg. New York: Bristol 1kK1ks. 1997. McOemlOu, N:mcie. Real Thai: The Besl of Thailalld's Regiol/al Cookillg. San Francisco: Chronicle IkKlks, 1992. Roden, Chludia. A Book of Middle Easlern Food. New York: Vintage Books, 1972Rojas-lombardi, Felipe. The Art of Soulb American Cooking. New York: HarpelColHns, 1991. Rose, E\'elyn. The Nell' Comp/ete il1lern(lliollal jewish Cookbook. New York: Carroll & Graf Publishcrs, Inc., 1992. R07jn. Elisabeth. Etbllic Cllisille: The f1avor-Prillciple Cookbook. lexington, Mass.: S. Green Press, 1983. Reprint. New York: Penguin Books USA Inc.. Viking Penguin, 1992. &andlcr, Bea. The Africall Cookbook. New York: World Publishing, 1970.
Scharfenberg, Horst. The Cllisilles ojCA>rm(fIIY: Regiona/ SpedaIM mltl Trallitiollal Home Cookil/g. Nev.' York: Poseidon I'rb.\ 1980. Solomon, Charmaine. The Complele Asiall Cookbook. New,(rl; McGmw-Hill, 1976. Toomrc, Joyce. Classic Rllssial/ Cookillg: Bel/a Moiokborels'li Gift to Youl1g HOllseu;llCS. Translated , introduced and annotated bj' Joyce Toomre. Bloomington. Ind.: Indiana Unhusil)' Pre\\ 1992. Von Brem7.en, Anya and John \\:'elchman. Please To The Talk 1I!t Rllssiml Cookbook. New York: Workman J'ublishing Co., 19W Wolfen, Paula. COUSCOIIS and Osher Gtxxl Footl from Morom New York: Harper & Row, 1973.
GARNISHING Budgen, June. The Book oj Cornishes. l.os Angeles: HI' Books.
1986 Haydock, Roben and Yukiko Haydock. jalxlI/ese Can/isM :->ell York: Holt, Rinehan and Winston, 1980. urousse, David Paul. &libleArt: Forty-Eight GafllislJesforl/JtJ'ro. fessiO/wl. New York: Van Nostf:.l.nd Reinhold, 1987. lynch. Francis Tal)'n. COfllisblllg: A Feasl fo r 10llr E)"f'S. La! Angeles: HI' Books, 1987.
BooKS BY Co~'TRlBurING CHEFS Ash. John and Sid Goldslein. AIII('1;((111 G(lme Cookillg. Reading. Mass.: Addison-Wesley (Aris Books), 1991. Beranbaum, Rose Levy. TIJe Cake Bible. New York: William Mo', row and Co., Inc.. 1988. Bishop, John. Bishop 's: "/1Je Cookbook. VanCOlWeI"". DougU) & Mcintyre Ltd., 1997. CarpemCf, Hugh and Ten Sandison. CbopsIU~ Qu ick Cooking IllIh Pacific l-1at"Ors. New York: Stewan. Tabori & Chang, 1990. Gokk.>n, Harris. Golden's Kitchell: The Arti.slry ojCookillg and {)j~. i'lg 0'1 the Light Side. Rev. 2nd ed. Phoeni.'<, Ariz.: Quail Run llooks. 1989. Kerr, Graham. Gmbam Kerr's Mil1imfu: Cookbook. Ne..... Yorl Doubleday, 1992. lukins, Sheila. Sheila Lukills USA Cookbook. New York: Worknun Publishing Co., 1997. Malgieri, Nick. Nick Ma/gierl's Perfect Paslly. New York: Macmil· lan, 1989. Medrich. Alice. CecOIaI. New York: \Varner llooks, 1990. Miller, Mark. Co)ole Cafe. Berkeley, Calif.: Ten Speed Press, 1989 Milliken, Mary Sue and Susan Feniger. City CllisillC. Ne..... Yak: William Morris and Co., Inc., 1989. Pooale, Alfred. Al/red Portale's GoIbam Bar al1d Grill C"oooWni New York: Doubleday, 1997. Puck, Wolfgang. A(lnmlll res il/ the Kitc/xm; {75 Nell' RKipesfrrSjXlgo, Chillois Oil Maill, Paslrio {/lui Ellrek(l. New York: Ibndam I-!O\.ISC, 1991. Richa rd, Michel. Micbel Richard 's Home Cookillg Ifilh a Fnmcb Accem. New York: William Morrow and Co .. Inc., 1993Ro/x:ns, Michael. Secrel {l1greffie/l/s. New York: Banl3ffi Bach
1988 Somerville. Annie. HeMs oj Greel/$.· Nell' I'egeltlriflll Recipes jrfA lhe Cefebmled Greens Reslallralll. New York: &lntam BoOO. 1993. Susser, Allen. Aile" Susser's Neu' World Cllisille allli Coo.I.nJ'. M'ti York: Doubleday, 1995. Tropp, &lrlxara. Cbilla Mooll Cookbook.. New York: \\~orknun Publishing Co., 1992.
LOSSARY Acid-foods such as cilms juice, vinegar and wine that have a sour or sharp fla1"01' (most foods are slightly acidic); acids lure a pH of less than 7. Acidulation-lhe browning of CUI fmit caused by the reaction of an enzyme (1XI1ypheno]oxidase) wilh the phenolic compounds presem in these fruits; this
browning is often mistakenly 311ributcd to exposure [0 oxygen. Additives-subst:mces added to foods \0 prevent spoilage or \0 improve appearance. texture, flavor or nutritional value,
Aerobic bactcria-those that thrive on oxygen.
Aging---(I) the period during which freshly killed meal is allowed 10 res! SO mat the effC<:ls of rigor mortis diSSipate: (2) the period during which freshly milled flour is allowed to rest .so m:n it will whilen and produce less slicky doughs; the aging of flour can be chemically accelermed. Airline breast-a boneless chicken breast with the first wing bone allached.
AIa cartc....---(I) a menu on which e~ch food ~nd beverJge is listed and priced separately; (2) foods cooked to order as opposed to foods cooked in advance and held for b ter service. AIbumen--lhe principal protein found in egg whiles. AI dente-(ahl den-tay) cooked foods (Ujually vegetables and pasta) Ihat are prep~red firm to the bite, not soft or
mushy. Alkali- also known as a base, any subStance with a pH higher Ihan 7; baking soda is one of the few alkaline foods. A1ka1oid-a number of bitter organic subslances with alkaline properties;
found most often in plants and sollletimes used in drugs. Allemande--{ah-luh-mahnd) a sauce made by adding lemon juice and a liaison to a veloutc made from veal or chicken stock; used to make several small sauces of the veloute family. Allumene-(al-u-met) (I) a matchstick CUt of 1/8 inch x 1/ 8 inch x 1-2 inches (3 mm x 3 mm x 2.;"; em) usually used for potatoes; (2) a Strip of puff pastry with a SWCCt or savory filling. American service-restaura nt service where the waiter takes the orders and brings the food 10 the table; the food is placed on dishes (platc..'ti) in the kitchen, making it a relatively fast method for seated service. Amino acid--lhe basic molecular component of proleins; each of the approximately IWO dozen amino acids contains oxygen, hydrogen, carbon and nitrogen atoms. Anaerobic bacteria--lhose that are able to ii\'e and grow without the presence of oxygen. Animal husbandry--lhe business, scjence and practice of r:lising domestic-.lled animals. Anterior--:tt or toward the front of an obiCCt or place; opposite of posterior, Appetizers--also known as first courses, usually small portions of hOI: or cold foods intended to whet the appetite in anticipation of the more substantial courses to follow. Aquafarming-also known as aquaculture, the bUSiness, science and pr:lctice of raising large quantities of fish and shellfish in tanks, ponds or ocean
peru;.
Aromatic-a food added to a preparation to enhance the flavor and aroma; includes herbs and spices as well as some vegClables. Aspic or aspic jeUy-a clear jelly usually made from a clarified stock thickened with gelatin; used 10 COOt foods, especially chamnerie items, and for g:lrnish. Au gratin-<:ah gr:lw-lOn) foods with a browned or crusted tOP; often made by browning a food with a bread crumb, cheese ancVor sauce topping under a broiler or salamander. Au jus--(ah 7.hew) roasted meats, poultry or game served with their natur:li, unthickened juices. Au sec--(ah sec) cooked until nearly dry. Bacteria-single<elled microorganisms, some of which can cause dise'Jscs, including food-borne diseases, BaiD marie-(bane mah-ree) (1) a hot water bath used to gently cook food or keep cooked food hOI:; (2) a container for holding food in a hOI: water bath, Baking-a dl)'-he~1 cooking method in which foods are surrounded by hOI, dry ai r in a closed environment; similar to roasting, the term bakillg is usually applied to breads, pastries, vegetables and fish. Baking powder-a mixture of sodium bicarbonate and one or more adds, generally cream of taMar ancVor sodium aluminum sulfate, used \0 leaven baked goods; it releases carbon dioxide gas if moisture is present in a fonnula. SingleaOing baking powder releases carbon dioxide gas in the presence of moisture only; double-acting baking powder releases somc carbon dioxide gas upon
Il2l
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contact with moisture, and more gas is released when heat is applied. Baking soda----sodium bicarbonate, an alkaline compound that releases carbon dioxide gas when combined with an acid and moisture; u~ed to leaven baked goods. BaUotine-{bahl-lo-teen) similar to a galamine, it is usually made by stuffing a deboned poultry leg with forcemeat; it is then poached or braised and normally served hoI. Barbecue--{l) to cook foods over dry heat created by the burning of hardwood or hardwood charcoals; (2) a tangy tomato- or Vinegar-based sauce used for grilled foods; (3) foods cooked by this method ancVor with this sauce. Barding-tying thin slice~ of fm. such as bacon or pork fatback, over meals or poultry that have liule to no natural fal covering in order to protect and moisten them during roasting. Basting-moistening foods during cooking (usually roasting, broiling or grilling) with melted fat, pan drippings, sauce or other liquids to prevent drying and to add flavor. Batonnet-{bah-toh-nah) foods cut into matchstick shapes of 1/4 inch x 1/4 inch x 2-2 1/2 inches (6 mm x 6 mm x s-6 cm). Batter--{I) a semiliquid mixture containing flour or other starch used to make cakes and breads. The gluten de· velopmem is minimized and the liquid forms the cominuous medium in which other ingredients are disbursed; genera.ly contains more fm, sugar and liquids than a dough; (2) a semiliquid mixture of liquid and starch used to coat foods for deep-frying. Baume scale--{boh-may) see Hydromctcr. Bavarian cream-a sweet dessert mix· ture made by thickening custard sauce with gelmin and then folding in whipped cream; the final product is poured into a mold and chilled until firm. Beard-a dump of dark threads found on a mussel. Bearnaise--{bare-naze) a sauce made of buner and egg yolks and flavored with a reduction of vinegar, shallots, tarragon and peppercorns.
Beating-a mixing method in which foods are vigorously agitated to incorporate air or develop gluten~ a spoon or electric mixer with its paddle auachment is used. Bechamel--{bay-shah-melO a leading sauce made by thickening milk with a white roux and adding seasonings. Bccfalo--the product of crossbreeding a bison (American buffalo) and a domestic beef animal. Berry-{J) the kernel of certain grains such as wheat; (2) small, juicy fruits that grow on vines and bushes. Beurre blanc--(burr bl:tnhk) (Fr. for white butter) an emulsified butter sauce. made from shallots, white wine and bUller. Beurre compose--(burr kom-poz-a) see Compound butter. Beurre manie--{burr man-yay) a combin:llion of equal amounts by weight of flour and soft , whole butter, it is whisked into a Simmering sauce at the end of the cooking process for quick thickening and added sheen and flavor. Beurre noir--(burr nwar) (Fr. for black butter) whole butter heated until dark brown; sometimes flavored with vinegar. Beurre noisette--{burr nwah-zett) whole bUller heated until it turns light brown, giving off a nutly aroma. Beurre rouge-{burr rooge) (Fr. for red buner) an emulsified buner sallce made from shallots, red wine and butter. Bilateral-symmetrical halves arranged along a central axis. Biscuit method-a mixing method used to make biscuilS, scones and flaky doughs~ it involves cuning cold fat into the flour and olher dry ingredients before any liquid is added. Bisque-{bisk) a soup made from shellfish; classic versions are thickened with rice. Bivalves-mollusks such as clams, oysters and mussels that have two bilateJ:l1 shells attached at a central hinge. Blanching-very briefly and panially cooking J food in boiling water or hot fat; usually used to assist preparation (for example, to loosen peels from vegetables), as pan of a combination cooking method, to remove undesirable flavors or . to prepare a food for freezing. Blanquette-{blang-kett) a white stew made of a white sauce and meat or
poultry that is simmcred wilhom firs! browning. Blending-a mixing method in which two or more ingredients are combined just until they are evenly distributed. Bloom--{ I) a white. powdery layer thaI sometimes appears on chocolate if the cocoa butter separates; (2) a measure of gebtin's strength. Boiling-a moist-hea! cooking method that uses convection to transfer heat from a hot (approximately 212°F [lOO"eD liquid to the food submerged in il; the turbulent waters and higher temperatures cook foods more quickly than do (rnching or simmering. Bordelaise--(bor-da-lays) a brown sauce flavored with a redUt1ion of red wine, shaHots, pepper and herbs and garnished with marrow. Bouchees--(boo..shays) small puff pastry sheHs often filled with a savory mLxlure and. used for hors d'oeuvre. Bound salad-a salad composed of cooked meats, poultry, fish, shellfish, pasta or potatoes combined with a dressing. Bouquet garnl-{boo-kay gar-nee) fresh herbs and vegetables tied into a bundl~ with twine and used to flavor stocks, sauces, soups and stews. 8ouquetiere--{boo-kuh-tyehr) a garnish (bouquet) of carefully cut and arranged fresh vegetables. Braising-a combination cooking method in which foods are fJrst browned in hot fat , then covered and slowly cooked in a small amount of liqUid Ol'e! low heat; braising uses a combination rf, simmering and steaming to transfer heal from the liquid (conduction) and the air (convection) to the foods. Bran-the tough outer byer of a amI gf:lin :lnd the p~rt highest in fiber. Brandy-an alcoholic beverage made bi' distilling the fermented mash of grapes or other fruits. Brawn-also called an aspic terrine, made from simmered meats packed into a tcrrine and covered with aspic. Brazier or brasier-a pan designed for braising; usually round with two handles and a tight-fining lid . Breading-{l) a coating of bread or (flIcker crumbs, cornmeal or other dry
GWSWiY meal applied to foods that will typically be dccp.-fried or pan-fried; (2) the process of applying this cooling. Brigade---also known as the kitchen brigade, a system of staffing a kitchen so that each worker is assigned a set of specific tasks; these tasks are often related by cooking method, equipment or the type of foods being produced. Brine-a mixture of salt, water and seasonings used to preserve foods. Brioche-{bree-yohsh) a rich yeast bread containing brge amounts of eggs and butter. Brochettes--{bro-shetts) skewers, either small hors d'oeuvre or large entrec size, threaded with meat, poultry, fish, shellfish andlor vegetables and grilled, broiled or baked; somctimes served with a dipping sauce. Broiling-a dry-heat cooking mcthod in which foods are cooked by heal mdiating from an overhead source. Broth-a navorful liquid obtained from the long simmering of mealS andlor \'egrubles. Browning---sec carameli7.atlo n. Brown sauce-sce EspagnoJe, Brown stew-a Slew in which Ihe meat is first browned in hOi fat. Brown stock-a richly colored stock made of chicken, veal, beef or game lxmes and vegetables, all of which are c:J.nmelized before they are simmered in water with seasonings. Brunch-a late morning to early afternoon me~l thut takes the pbce of both breakfast and lunch; ~ brunch menu oftcn offers breakfast foods as well as almost anything else. Brunoise-{broo-nw:lh) (I) foods CUt imo cubes of 1/8 inch x liB inch x liS inch (3 mm x 3 mm x 3 mm); (2) foods garnished with vegetables CUt in this manner. Buffet service--diners generally sel'\'e thcmseh-es foods arranged on a counter or t:lble or are sel'\'ed by workers :lSsigned to specific areas of the buffet. Usually buffet-service-style restaurants charge by the meal; restaurants offering buffet service that ch:lrge by the dish arc known as cafeteri:ls. Butcher--{I) to slaughter and dress or fabricate animals for consumption; (2) the person who slaughters and fabricates animals.
Butler service-the use of sel'\'ers to pass foods (typically hors d'oeuvre) or drinks arranged on trays. Butlercrcam-a light, smooth, fluffy frosting of sugar, fat and flaVOrings; egg yolks or whipped egg whites :Ire sometimes added. There are three principal kinds: simple, Italian and French, Butlerflring-slicing boneless meat, fish or shrimp nearly in half lengthwise so th.1l they spread open like a book; used to increase surface area and speed cooking. Cafeteria- see Buffet service, Caffeine-an al kaloid found in coffee beans, tea leaves and cocoa beans that adS as ~ stimulant. cake-in American usage, refers to a broad range of p~slries, including larer C:lkes, coffeecakes and gfiteaux; can refer to almost anything th:1I is baked, tender, sweet and sometimes frosted. caH-{1) a young cow or bull; (2) the meat of cakes slaughtered when they are older than five months. calorie-the unit of energy measured by the amount of heat required [0 r:lise 1000 gr:lnlS of W3ler one dcgree Celsius; it is also wrillen as kilocalorie or kal and is used as a measure of food en-
''!!Y-
canape-{kahn-ah-pay) tiny open-faced sandwich served as an hors d'oeuvre; usu:llly composed of a small piece of bre.!d or toast topped with a savory spread and garnish. canning-a preservation method in which the food is sealed in a glass or mctal container and subjected to high tcmperatures for a specific period in order to destroy microorganisms that cause spoilage; the sealed environment eliminates oxidation and retards de<:omposition. capon--{kay-pahn) the class of surgically castrated male chickens; they have well-flavored meat and soft, smooth skin. capsaicin-{kap.-say-ih-sin) an alkaloid found in a chile pepper's pbcental ribs that provides the peppers heal. caramelization-the process of cooking sugars; the browning of sugar enhances the flavor and appearance of foods. Carbohydrates-a group of compounds composed of oxygen, hydrogen and carbon that supply the body with energy (4 calories per gram); carbohydrates are
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cbssifk'
body_ Carve-to cut cooked meat or poultry into portions. Casings-membranes US<.'
rood>_
Chcesccloth-a light, fine mesh gauze used to strain liqUids and make sachets. Chcf de partic-31so known as station chcf, produces the menu items under the direet supervision of the chef or souschef.
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GLOmR"
Chef du cuisine-also known simply
3S
chef, the person responsible for :Ill kitchen operations, developing menu
ilems and setting the kitchen's lone and tempo. Chefs knife-:m all-purpose knife used for chopping, slicing and mincing; itS tapering bl:ide is 8-14 inches long. Che mical hazards-a d:tnger to the safety of food C:lUs(''(/ by chemical su:)stances, especially cleaning agenLS, pesticides and toxic met lls. Chemical leave ning agcnts-see Baking powder and Baking soda; through chemical reactions between acids :md bases, these prodlK1s release gases used to leaven b:lk<.-'d goods. Chevre-(shev-ruh) (Fr. for goat) gener-
ally refers to a cheese made from goal's milk.
Chiffonadc.'----Cchch-fon-nahd) . (I) to finely slice or shred leafy vegetables or herbs: (2) the finely cut leafy vegetables or herbs often used as a garnish or bed~ ding.
Chile-a member of the capsirum pbnt family. ChiIi-------lhe stew-like dish containing chiles. Chilli-a commercial spice powder rontaining a blend of seasonings. China cap-a cone-shaped str.liner made of perforated mewt. Chinoise-(shen·w-asz) a conical strainer made of fine mesh, used for titmining and pureeing foods. Chlorophyll-a naturally occurring pig. ment that predominates in green vegeta· bles such as cabbage. Cholestcrol-a fatty substance found in foods derived from animal produCtS and in the human body; i1 has been linked to he:m disease. Chop-{ I) a cut of meat including part of the rib; (2) to cut an item into small pieces where uniformity of size and shape is neither feasible nor necessarf. Chowder-a hearty soup made from fish , shellfish and/or vegetables, usually containing milk and poI:atoes and often thickened with roux. Choux pastry-see Eclair paste. Chutney-a sweet·and-sour condime:1\ made of fruits and/or vegetables cooked in vinegar with sugar :md spices: some
chutneys are reduced to a pur{>e, while others relain recognizable pieces of their ingredients. Cider-mildly fermemed apple juice; nonalcoholic apple juice may also be b· beled cider. Citrus-fruits charaderized by a thick rind, mOS( of which is a bitter white pith (albedo) with a thin exterior layer of colored skin (zest); their flesh is segmented. juicy and varies from bitter to tart to sweet. Clarification-(I) the process of transforming a broth into a clear consomme by trapping impurities with 3 clearrneat consisting of the egg white protein albumen, ground meat, an acidic produd, mirepoix and other ingredients; (2) the cleamleat used to clarify a broth . Clarified buner-purified butterfat; the butter is melted and the water and milk solids are removed. Ciasses-------lhe subdivisions of poultry kinds based on the birers age and tendemess. Classic cuisine-a late 191h- and earty 2Oth-centUlY refinement and simplification of French grande ruisine. Classic (or classical) ruisine relies upon the thorough exploration of culinary principles and techniques and emphasizes the refined preparation and presentation of suo perb ingredients. Clean-------lo remove visible din and soil. Clearmeat-see Clarification. Clear soups-umhickened soups, including brOlhs, consommes and brothbased soups. Coagulation---lhe irreversible tr:msformation of prOleins from a liquid or semi· liqUid state 10 a drier, solid state; usually accomplished Ihrough the application of heat. Cocoa butter-------lhe fat found in cocoa beans and used in fine chocolates. Colander-a perfOr:lted bowl, with or without a base or legs, used to strain
f"""'. Collagen-a protein found in nearly all connedive tissues; it dissolves when cooked with moisture. Combination cooking methodscooking methods, principally braL~ing and steWing, that employ bOlh dry-heat and moist-heat procedures.
Composed salad-a salad prepared!Jt· arranging each of the ingredients (the base. body, garnish and dressing) 011 individual plates in an artistic fashion. Compound butter-also known as a beurre compose, a mixture of softened whole bUller and flavorings used as 3 S:tuce or to flavor and color other sauces. Compound sauces-see Small saum, Concassi'C--(kon·kaas·say) peeled. seeded and diced tomatoes. Concasser--(kon-ka:ls) to pound or chop coarsely; usually used for tomatoes or parsley. Condiment-traditionally, any item added to a dish for flavor, including herbs, spices and vinegars; nolV also refers to cooked or prepared flavorings such as prepared mustards, relishes, ro· tied sauces or pickles. Conduction---lhe transfer of heat from one ite~1 to another through direa coolad. Contil-meat or poultry (often lightly salt-cured) slowly cooked and preset\l"li in its own fat and served hot. Conneclive tissues--tissues found throughout an animal's body that 00Id together and suppon other tissues such as muscles. Consomme-a rich stock or broth th:!t has been clarified with clearmcat to remove impurities. Contaminants--biological, chemical or physical substances that can be h.1rmful when consumed in sufficient quantities. Contamlnatlon-------lhe presence, gener· ally unintentional, of harmful mganisml or subStances. ConveClion-------lhe tra nsfer of heat caused by the natural movemenl of molecules in a fluid (whether air, water or fat) from 3 warmer area to a cooler one. Mechanial com'ection is the rllO\·ement of molerules caused by stirring. Cookery-the art, pradice or work d cooking. Cookies-small, sweet, flat pastries; usually classified by preparation or makeup techniques as drop, iceoox. rur, cutout. pressed and wafer. Cooking-------lhe tmnsfer of ene®, from a heat source to a food; this energy alters the food's molerular strudure, changing its texture. flavor, aroma and appear· :tnce.
G=R,' Cooking mc.."
Creme Chanlilly--{crem shan-tee) heavy cream whipped to soft peaks and flavored with sugar and \'anilla; used to garnish pastries or de~rts or folded into cooled custard or pastry cream for fill ings. Cri:me Chibousl--{crem chee·boos) a pastry cream lightened by folding in Italian meringue. Cri:me patissiere--(crem pah-tcessyehr) see Pastry cream. Crepe-(krayp) a thin, delicate unleavened griddJe("";lke made with a very thin egg bauer cooked in a very hOi s3ute pan; used in sweet and savory prepar:ltions. Critical control point-ll!1der the HACCP system. it is any step during the processing of a food when a mistake can resul t in the transmission, growth or survival of pathogeniC bacteria. Croissant--{krwah-san) a crescentshaped roll made from :I rich, rolled-in yeast dough. Croquctte--(crow-kett) a food that has been pureed or bound with a thick sauce (usually bechamel or velouh~), made into small shapes. then breaded and deep-fried. Cross-contamination-lhe transfer of baderia or OIher contaminants from one food, work surface or equipment to another. Croute, en--{awn CfOO{) a food encased in a bread or pastry cn:st. Crouton-a bread or pastry g:arnish. usually toasted or sal1lt>ed until criSp. C rudites---(croo-dee~tays) generally refers to mw or blanched vegetables served as an hors d'oeuvre and often accompanied by a dip. Crustaccans-shellfish charaderized by :I hard oUler skeleton or shell and jointed appendages; indude lobsters, crabs and shrimp. Cuisine-the ingrediems, seasonings, cooking procedures ane styles attributable to a particular gTOl.p of people; the group can be defined by geography, history, ethnicity, politiCS, culture or religion. Cuisson-{kwee-zon) the liquid used for shallow poaching. Curdle-the separation of milk or egg mixtures into solid and liquid compone nts; caused by overcooking, high heat or the presence of acids.
1125
Curing salt-a mixture of salt and sodium nitrite that inhibits badenal growth; used as a preservative, often for charculerie items. Custard--:lny liquid thickened by the coagulation of egg proteins; its consistency depends on the ratio of eggs to liqUid and the type of liquid usc..-d. Custards ("";In be baked in the oven or cooked in a hain marie or on the stove top. Cutlel-3 relatively thick boneless slice of meat. Cutting--{!) reducing a food to smaller pieces: (2) a mixing method in which solid f:lt is incorpor:lIed into dry ingredients until only lumps of the desired size remain. Cutting loss-the un3voidable and unrccover:lble loss of food during fabrication; the loss is usu:.lIy the result of food particles sticking to the cutting boanl or the evaporation of liquids. CUlllebone-also known as the pen, the single, thin intern:al shell of cephalopods. Cycle menu-a menu that changes every day for a certain period and then repeats the same daily items in the same order (for example. on a seven-day cycle, the same menu is used every Mond:ay). Dairy products-include cow's milk and foods produced from cow'S milk such as butter, yogurt, sour cream and cheese. Dc..-clinc phase--:l period during which b:.ctcria dic at :m accelerated r:Ite, also known as the negative growth phase. Dccoction--{I) boiling :I food until its flavor is removed: (2) a procedure used for breWing coffee . Decor,ttor's icing-see Royal icing. Dccp-frying-a dry-heat cooking method using convcction (0 tr:lnsfer heat (0 a food submerged in hOi fat ; foods 10 be deep-fried are usually firsl coated in baIter or breading. DcgJaze-to swirl or stir a liquid (usually wine or stock) in a saute pan or other pan to dissolve cooked food particles remaining on the bottom; the resulting mixture often becomes the base for a sauce. I>egrease-to skim the f:lt from the top of a liquid such as a sauce or stock.
1126
GL~r
Demi-glace-.-.(deh-me gbss) (Fr. for half-glaze) a mixture of half brown stock and half brown sauce reduced by half.
Detrempc--{da}'-tromp) a paste made with nour and waler during the first stage of preparing j pastry dough, especially rolled-in doughs.
Deveining--lhe process of removing a shrimp's digestive trJet.
Deviled-meat, poultry or Other food seasoned with mustard, vinegar and uther
~pi<.:y ~aMJllillg:>.
Diagonals---elongated or oval-shaped slices of cylindrical vegetables or fruits.
Dice-(I) 10 cut foods into cubes; 1/4 inch (6 mill) for s!l1311. 3/8 inch (9 mm)
"for medium and 5/8 0.5 em} for large; (2) the cubes of Clll food. Dietary fiber-see Fiber. Dip-a thick cre3my sauce, served hal
or cold, to accompany crudites, cf3ckers, chips or other foods, especially as an hors d'oeuvre; dips are often based on sour cream, mayonnaise or cream cheese. Direct contamination-the contamina~ tion of raw foods in their nallll""Jl setting or habit:u. Docking-pricking small holes in an unbaked dough or cruSt to allow steam to escape and prevent the dough from rising when baked. Dough-a mixture of flour and other ingredients used in baking~ has a low moisture content and gluten forms the continuous medium into which other ingredients are embedded; il is often stifT enough to cut into shapes. Orawn-a market form for fish in which the viscera is removed. Dredging-coating a food with Oour or finely ground crumbs: usually done prior to sauteing or fl)'ing or as the first step of the st:llldardized breading procedure. Dressed-(I) an animal carcass trimmed or othenvise prepared for consumpl1on: (2) a market form for fish in which the viscera, gills. fins and scales are removed. Drupes--see Stone fruils. Dry-heat cooking methods-cooking methods, principally brOiling, grilling, roasting and baking, sauteing, pan-frying and deep-frying, that use air or fat to transfer heat through conduction and convection: dry-heat cooking methods allow surface sugars to caramelize.
Drying-a preservation method in which the fOQ(rs moisture content is dramatically reduced: dl)'ing changes the food's texture, Ilavor and appearance. Duchesse potatoes---(duh-shees) a purl'e of cooked potatoes, butter and egg yolks, seasoned with salt. pepper and nutmeg; can be eaten as is or used to prepare several classic potato dishes. Dumpling-any of a variety of small starchy produds made from doughs or b
Enzymes-proteins that aid specific chemical reactions in plants and animals. Escalope-(ess-cal-lop) see Scallop. Espagnole-(ess-spah-nyol) also known as brown sauce, a leading sauce made of brown stock, mirepoix and tomatoes thickened with brown roux; often used to produce demi-glace. Essential nutrients-nutrients thaI must be provided by food because the body cannot or does not produce them in suf· ficient quantities. Ethnic cuisine-generally, the cuisine of a group of people having a common cultural heritage, as opposed to the ruisine of a group of people bound together by geography or political facrol"S. Ethylene gas-a colorless, odorless hy· drocarbon gas naturally emitted from fruits and fruit-vegetables that encourages ripening. Evaporatjon-the process by which heated water molecules move faster and faster until the water turns to a gas (steam) and vaporizes; evapomtion is responsible for the drying of foods during cooking. Extrac~oncentrated mixtures of elh}i alcohol and flavoring oils such as \llnilla. almond and lemon.
Extrusion-the process of forcing past3 dough through perforated plates to cre· ate various shapes; pasta dough that is not extruded musl be rolled and cut. Fabricate--to cut a large item into smaller poniollS; often refers to the butchering of fish or shellfish. Fabricated cuts-individual portiOns of meat cut from a subprimal. Facultative bacteria-those that can adapt and will survive with or without oxygen. Fancy-{ l) fish that has been previously fruztn; (2) a (.{ualilY grJlk fur
rrui~, 0-
pedally canned or frozen . Fatback-fresh pork fat from the back of the pig, used primarily for barding. Fats-{l) a group of compounds com· posed of oxygen, hydrogen and carbon atoms thl! supply the body with energy (9 calories per gram): fats are classified as saturated, monounsaturated or poly· unsaturated; (2) the general lenn for but· ter, lard, shortening, oil and margarine used as cooking media or ingredients.
Fermentation-(I) the process by which yC3st convens sugar into alcohol and C"Jrbon dioxide; (2) the time th:Jt reast bread dough is left to risco Feuilleltcs-(fuh-r('-1) square, rectangular or dbmond-shaped puff pastry boxes m:u can be filk>d with a sweet or SJ\'ory mixture. Fiber--'Jlso known as dietary fiber, indigeslible c:trlXlhrdr:ues found in grains, fruits. and \"egt.1ables; fiber aids digestion. FIFO (First In, First Oul}-an inventory storage and utilization process in which the oldest product is always used firs\.
Folding-a mixing melhod used to gently incorporate light, ai ry products into he:wicr ingredients (for example, mixing dry ingredients with whipped eggs). Fond-(fahn) (I) Fr. for stock; (2) Fr. for bollom; the concentrated juices, drippings and bits of food left in pans after fcxxls :ue roasted Of sauteed; used 10 flavor sauces made directl~' in the pans in which Ihe foods were cooked. Fondant---(fahn-dant) a sweet, thick opaquc sugar pastc commonly u:;ed for glazing pastries such as napoleons or making candies. Fond IjC-(fahn Ice-ay) See Jus
lie.
FilC-(ft.oe-lay) a seasoning and thickening agent n1;l(Ie from dried, ground sassafras leaves.
Food cost-the cost of Ihe materials Ihat go d irectly into the produdion of menu items.
Filet, Fillet-(fee-l:ty) (I) flle t: the bone-
Food cost percentage-the rJtio of the COSt of foods scrved to the food sales dollars during a given period.
less tenderloin of meat; (2) fillet; the side of a fish removed imao, boneless or semiboncless, with or without skin; (3) to cut such a picre. Fish velou tl.' -a veloutc SJuce made from fish stock. Flamlx --domin:ltes in red. purple and white vegetables such as C"Juliflower. red cabbage and beets. FIa"o ring-an item Ih:1I adds a new I:lste to a food :lIld alters its n:uural fl:lI"Ors; flavorings include herbs, spiccs. vinegars and condiments. Fleuron-(floor-ahn) a crescent·shaped piece of puff p:tstry used as :t garnish.
Food Pyramid-a dietary guide that prioritizes and proportions food choices among six general food groups. Forcemeat-a preparation made from uncooked ground meats. poultry, fish Of shellfish. seasoned, and emulsified with fat; commonly prepared as country-style. basic and mousseline and used for durcuterie items. Formula-a recipe; the term is most often used in the bakeshop. Frangipane--(fran-juh·pahn) a s....eel almond and egg filling cooked inside paslry. Free-range chickens----chickens allowed 10 move freely and forage for food; as opposed to chickens raised in coops. Free-range vea1-the meat of C"Jkes thaI are allowed to roam freely and eat grasses and other natural foods; this meat L~ pinker and more strongly flavored than Ihat of milk-fed calves. Freezer burn-lhe surface dehydrJtion and discoloration of food Ihal results from moisture loss al below·freezing temperatures.
Foic gras----(fwah grah) liver of specially fattened get.'Se.
French scrvice-restaurant service where one waiter (a captain) lakes the order, does the tableside cooking and brings the drinks and food, the second:!ry or back waiter serves bread and waler, clC"JTS each course, crumbs the table and SCIWS Ihe coffee.
Fold-a measurement of Ihe slrength of vanilla extrao.
Fresh-a food thaI is not and has never been frozen.
Flour-a powdery substance of varying degrees of fineness made b}' milling grnins such as wheal, com or rye.
Frcsh·fro7.en-:t food that has been frozen while still fresh. Fric assCe-d as :1 filling beIW(."'en the layers or as :l coating over the lop :md sides of a cake. frujt-the ("dible organ that develops from Ihe ov:try of 3 flowering plant and contains one or more seeds (pips or pits). Fru.it-vegetablcs-foods such as avocados, eggplants, chile peppers and tomatoes that are bot:l1liC:llly fruits but arc mosl often prepared and scn'ed like veget:tbles. Frying-a dry-heat cooking method in which foods :lTe cooked in hot fat; indudes sautcing and slir-frying, pan-frying and deep-frying. Fumet-(foo-nuy) a stock made from fish bones o r shellfish shells and \'egetables simmered in :t liquid with fla ....orings. Fungi-a large group of plants r:mging from single-celled organisms 10 giant mushrooms; ,he mOSt common are molds and yC:lSIS. Gal3nga-a rhizome used fresh or dry as a spice in Southeast Asian cuisine; has a gingerlike flavor. Gal3ntine-simibr to a ballonine, it is a charcuterie item made from a forcemeat of poultry, g:tme or suckling pig usually wrapped in the skin of the bird or animal and poach(."(1 in an appropriate stock; often scrved cold, usually in aspic. Game-birds lind animals hunted for slXln or food; many ganle birds and ani· mals arc now ranch-raised and commerci:ally :available. Game he n-the class of young or im· mature progeny of Cornish chickens Of of a Corn ish chicken and \Xbite Rock chicken; they are small and very flavorful. Ganache--(ga-nosh) a rich blend of chocolate and heavy cream and, optionally_ flavorings, used as a pastry or candy filling or frosting. Ga ram masala-a blend of roasted 3nd ground spices used in East Indian cuisines.
1128
~,
GLOSSARY
Garde manger---
cook in charge of cold food production, induding salads and salad dressings, charcuterie items, cold appetizers and buffet items; (2) the work area where these food5 are prepared. Garnish--(l) food used as an attractive decol'"Jtion; (2) a subsidiary food used to add flavor or character to the main ingredient in a dish (for example, noodles in chicken noodle soup). Gastronomy-the art and science of eating well. Giiteau-(ga-toe) (1) in American usage, refers to any C'J.ke-IYpe dessert; (2) in French usage, refers to various pastry items made with puff pastry, eclair paste, short dough or sweet dough. Gaufrene potatoes---thin, fried, latticecut slices of potato. Gelatin-a tasteless and odorless mixture of proteins (especially collagen) extracted from ixmes, connective tissues and other :mimai parts; when dissolved in a hot liquid and then cooled, it forms a jellylike substance; used as a thickener and stabilizer. Gelatinization-the process by which starch granules are cooked. They absorb moisture when placed in a liquid and heated; as the moisture is absorbed, lhe product swells, softens and clarifies slightly. Gelato--{jah-Iaht-to) an [talian-style ice cream that is denser than American·slyle ice cream. Genoise---
Glaze--{I) :my shiny coating applied to food or created by browning; (2) the dramatic reduction and concentration of a stock; (3) a thin, flavored coating [Xlured or dripped onto a cake or pastry. Gliaden-see Gluten. Glucose-an important energy source for the txxI}'; also known as blood sugar. Gluten-a tough clastic substance created when flour is moistened and mixed; it gives structure and strength to baked goods and is res[Xln5ible for their volume, texture and appearance. 111e proteins necessary for gluten formation are glutenin and gliaden. Glutenin-see Gluten. Grading-a series of voluntary progrnms offered by the U.S. Department of Agriculture to deSignate a food's overall qu:!lity. Grains-(I) grasses that bear edible seeds, including corn, rice and wheat; (2) the fruit (that is, seed or kernel) of such grasses. Gram-the basic unit of weight in the metric system; equal to approximately 1130 of an ounce. Gf'J.nde Cuisine-the rich, intricate and elabo,Jte cuisine of the 18th- and 19thcentury French aristocracy and upper classes. It is based upon the rational identifICation, development and adoption of strict culinary principles. Grate-to cut a food into small, thin shreds by rubbing it against a serlJ.ted metal plate known as a grJ.ter. Green meats-freshly slaughtered meats that have nOt had sufficient time to age and develop tenderness and flavor. Gremolada--(greh-moa-Iah-dah) an aromatic garnish of chopped parsley, garlic and lemon zest used for osso buco. Grilling-a dry-heat cooking method in which foods are cooked by heat rndialing from a source located below the cooking surface; the heat can be generated by electricity or by burning gas, hardwood or hardwood charcoals. Grind-to pulverize or reduce food 10 small particles using a mechanical grinder or food processor. Grinding-a milling process in which grains are rc
Gristle-see Cartilage. Gum paste-a smooth dough of sugar and gelatin that can be colored and used to make decorations, especially for pastries. HACCP-see Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points. I1anging-the practice of allowing cI'is· cerated (drawn or gUlled) game to age in a dry, well-ventilated place; hanging helps tenderize the flesh and strengthen iL~ flavor. Hazard AnalysiS Critical Control Points (HACCP)-a rigorous systcm of self-inspection used to manage and maintain sanitary conditions in all types of food service operations; it focuses on the flow of food through the food ser· vice facility to identify any [Xlint or step in preparation (known as a critiGlI con· trol [Xlint) where some action must be taken to prevent or minimize a risk or hazard . Heimlich maneuver-the first aid pm· cedurc for choking victims in which sudden upward pressure is applied to the upper abdomen in order to force any foreign object from the windpipe. Herbs-any of:1 large group of aromatic plants whose leaves, stems or flowers are used to add fl:lvors to other foods. High-ratio cakes-a form of creamed· fat cake that uses emulsified shortcning and has a two-stage mixing method. Hollandaisc-(holl-uhn-daze) an emulsi· fied sauce made of butter, egg yolks lnd flavorings (especbUy lemon juice). Homogenization-the process by which milk fat is prevented from separat· ing out of milk products. Hors d'oeuvre-(ohr durv) very smaU [Xlrtions of hot or cold foods served IJe.. fore the meal to stimulate the appetite. Hotel pan-a rectangular, stainless stl'el pan with a lip allowing it to rest in a storage shelf or steam table; availablc in several standard sizes. Hull- also known ~s the husk, the outer covering of a fmit, seed or grain. Hybrid-the result of crossbreeding different species that arc genetically unalike; it is often a unique product. Hybrid rnenu-'J. menu combining features of a static menu with a cycle menu or a market menu of specials.
GlO&Wil' Hydrogenation-the process used to harden oils: Hydrogen atoms are added to uns:uur:ned fat molecules. making them partially or completely saturated and thus solid at room temperature. Hydromctc r-a device used to measure specific gravity; it shows degrees of concentration on the 13:lume scale. Hygroscopic-the characteristic of a food to read ily absorb moisture from the air. Icing-sce Frosting. L\tPS/ NAMP-see NAMP/ L\tPS.
Induction cooking--J cooking method that uses a special coil placed below the Slove 10P'S surf:lce in combination with spedally designed cookware to generate heat rapidly wilh :111 alternating magnelic field. Infection-in the fcxxl safelY context, a disease caustod by the ingesrion of live p:nhogenic bacteria that continue their life processes in the consumer'S intestinal trdCI. Infrnrcd cooking-:I healing method that uses ~m electric or ceramic clement heated to such a high temper:llU rc that it gives ofT waves of radianl heat thai cook the fcxxl. Infusion--(l) Ihe extrJ.ction of flavors from a food at a temperature below boiling; (2) a group of coffee brewing techniques, including steeping. filtering and dripping: (3) Ihe liquid resulting from Ihis process. Insta nt-read thermometer- a thermometer used to measure the internal temperalure of fcxxls; the stem is inserted in the fcxxl , producing an instam IcmperJ.lUre readout. Intoxicatio n-in the food safety context, a disc:lSC caused by the toxins tlla! bacteria produce during their life processes. Inve ntory-the listing and couming of all foocl~ in the kitchen, storerooms and refrigerators. IQF (Individually Quick Frozen}-the tcchnique of r:lpidly freeZing each individual item of food such as slices of fruit, berries or pieces of fish before packaging; IQF foods are nOl. packaged with syrup or sauce. Irradiatio n-a preservation method used for cenain fmits, vegetables, grains. spices, mea! and poultry in which ioniz-
ing radi:ltion sterilizes the fcxxl. slows ripening and prevents sprouting. Jam-:l fruit gel made from fruit pulp :In(1 sugar. J e lly-a fruit gel nude from fnlil juice :lnd sugar. Ju ic~he
liquid extracted from any fmit or vegetable.
Julienne-(ju-lee-en) (I) to CUt foods into stick-shaped pieces, approximately 1/8 inch x 1/8 inch x 1-2 inches <3 mm x 3 mm x 25-5 em); (2) the stick-shaped pieces of cut foocl. Jus liHzhew lee-ay) also known as fonel lie. a sauce made by thickening brown stock with cornstarch or similar starch; often used like a demi-gbce, especiall~' to produce small sauces. IG nds--t he categories of poultry rcrognized by the U.S. Depanmem of Agriculture: chickens, ducks, geese, guineas, pigeons :lnd turkeys. Kneading-working a dough gluten.
w develop
Kos he r-foocl prepared in accordance with Jewish diet:I!'}' bws. Lag phase-:l period, USU:llly following liJ.nsfer from one place to another, during which bacteria do not experience much growth. Lamb-thc meat of sheep slaughtered under the age of one year. Lard-the rendered fal of hogs. Larding-inserting thin slices of fal , such as pork fatback, into low-f:u meats in order to add moisture. Leading sauces-also known as mother 5.1UCeS, Ihe foundation for the emire classic repertoire of hOI. $:Iuces; the five leading sauces (bechamel, veloute, espagnole [also known as brownJ, tomato and hollandaise) are distinguished by the liquids and thickeners used to make them. TIley can be seasoned and garnished to create a wide varielY of small or compound sauces. Lean doughs-yeast doughs that contain little or no SUgaf Of fat; used for French Of Italian breads. Leavene r-an ingredient or process that prcxluces or incorporates gases in a baked prodUd in order to increase volume, provide structure :lnd give texture. Leclthln-a natuiJ.] emulsifier found in egg yolks.
1129
Legumes--(tay-gyooms) (I) Fr. for vegeubles; (2) a large group of vegetables with double-seamed seed pods; depending upon the v:lrieIY, the seeds, pod and seeds together. or the dried seeds are eaten. Uaison--(k-'C-yeh-lOn) a mixture of egg yolks :md heavy CfC:lm used 10 thicken and enrich sauces. Uqucur-:l strong. swCCt , syrupy :lieaholic be\'erage made by mixing or redistilling neutral spiritS with fruits, flowers, herbs, spices or Other flamrings: also known as a cordial. Uquor-:m :llcoholic beverage made by di~til1ing grains, vegetables or other fooclsj indudes nUll, whiskey and vodka . Utcr--the basic unit of volume in the metric system, equ:l1 10 slightly more than a quart _
Log phase-a period of accelerated growth for bacteria. Macaroni--(l) any dri(-'d pasta made with wheat nour and w:uer; (2) in American usage. an elbow-shaped pasta tube. Macerate-to soak foods in a liquid, usually alcoholic. to soften them. MacronutrienlS-thc nutrients nL'eded in large quantities: C1rbohydrales, proteins, falS and water. Madeira-a POl1uguese fortified wine heated during aging to give it a distinctive fl:lvor and brown color. Maitre d ' hotel ( maitre d 'Hmay-tr doh-te!) (I) the leader of the dining room brigade, also known as Ihe dining room manager, he or she ol'ersces the dining room or "front of the housc· staff; (2) a compound bUller n3vored with chopped parsley and lemon juice. Mando line-a stainless steel. h:lnd-operated slicing device wilh adjustable blades. Marbling-Whitish streaks of inter- and intramuscul3r fat. Ma rinade-the liquid uscd to marinate foods; it generally contains herbs, spices and Other flavoring ingredients as well as an acidic product .~uch as wine. vinegar or lemon juice. Marinate-to SQ.1k a fcxxl in a seasoned liquid in order to tenderize the food and add flavor to il. Ma rket menu-a menu ba.s<.>d upon product availability during a slx:cific period; it is written to use foods when they are in peak season or re;ldily 31'ail:tble.
1/30
GIIJSS
Marmalade-a citrus jelly th:u also con~ lain:> unp<.'Cled slices of (jlms fruit. Marsala-a flavorful fonified 5\\'<.'<.-1-10semidry Sicilian wine.
Manipan-a paste of ground almonds, sugar :md egg whilcs uS<.'(i to fill and ck'COr:ne paStries. Masala-sec Garam m asala.
Matzo----thin, crisp unlca\·ened bread nude only with flour and waler; can be ground into meal Ihat is used for matzo
baHs and pancakes. Mayonnaise-a thick , creamy sauce
consisting of oil :l11d vinegar cmulsifie<J with egg yolks. usually used as a S:llad dressing.
Mealy potatoes-also known as starchy pot:uoes, those with a high st:trch mn-
lem :md thick skin; they
:lfC
beSt for
baking.
Medallion-a small, round piece of meal or fish. Melt---thc process by which cenain foods. especially those high in fat, gradually soflen then liquefy when heated. Menu-a list of foods and bcvcmges 3\'J.ilablc for purcluse. Meringue--(muh-reng) a fO:II11 made of beaten egg whites and sug:tr. Metabolism-all the c hemiC"J.1 reactions ~nd physicJ.1 processes th:u occur continuously in living cell~ and organisms. Mete r-lhe basic unit of length in the metric system. <-"qual to slightly more than 1 Y:lfd, Mezzalulla-a two-h:mdlcd knife with one or more thick. crescent-shaped blades uS(-d to choppc..--d and mince herbs and vegetables. Microllutrients-t he nutrients needed only in small amoums: vitamin.~ and minerals. I\licroorganisln5-Single-ceiled organisms :ts well as tiny plants and animals thai can be seen only through :l microscope. Microwavc cooki ng-a heating method that uses radiation gener:ued by a special O\'en to penetrate the food. It agio tates water molecules. crealing friction and heal: th is energy then spreads throughout the food by conduction (and by convection in liquids), Mignoneu e-:l small c ut or medallion of melt.
Milk·fed veal-:llso known as formul:!· fed vC'J.l, it is the me:u of calves fed only a nutrient-rich liquid and kept tethered in pens; this meat is whitcr and more mildly fla\"Ored than that of free-range calves. Milling-the process by which grain is ground into flour o r meal. Mince--to CUt a food item into very small pieces. Mineral- inorganic micronutrients necessafY for regulating Ixxly functions and proper bone and teeth stntctures. Mirepoi.,,--<meer-pwa) a mixture of coarsely chopped onions, carrots and celery used to flavor stocks, stews and other foods; genem!iy, :1 mixture of 50% onions, 25% carrols and 25% celery. by weight, is used. Mise en place-(meez on pbhs) (Fr. for putting in pbce) refers 10 the preparalion and assembly of all necessary ingredienLS and <-"quipmenl. Mix-lo combine ingredienLS in such a way that they are C\'enly dispersed throughout the mixture. Moist·heat cooking methods--rooking methods, principally simmering, pooching. boiling and steaming, that usc water or steam to transfer heat through con\'OOion; moist-heal cooking methods are used to emphasize Ihe naturJ.l navors of food;
Molding-lhe process of shaping foods, particularly grains :md vegeta bles bound by sauces, into :lnradive, hard·edged shapes by using metal rings, circular CUIters or other forms. Molds--(I) algaelike fungi that form long filaments or strands, for the most ]XIrt, molds affect only food appearance and fla\'Or; (2) containers used for shaping foods, MoUusks-shellfish characterized by a soft, unsegmented body, no internal skelelon and a hard outer shell.
Mo the r s auces-(Fr. sallce mere). see Leading sauces. Mo usse-(moose) :I SOfl, creamy food, either sweet or sa\'ory, lightened by adding whipped cream. beaten egg whites or both. Mousseline--(moose·uh-leen) (t) a de1icately flavored forcemeat based on white meat, fish or shellfish lightened with cream and egg whites; (2) a sauce or cre-J.1ll lightened by folding in whippt'd cream, Muffm me thod-a mixing method used to make quick bread baiters; il involres combining liquid fat with olher liquid in· grt:dients before adding them to the dry ingredients. Muscles-animal tissues consisting of bundles of cells or fibers that can con· tract :lIld expand; they afe the portions of a carcass usually consumed. Mus hrooms-rrK'mbers of a brood catl'gory of plants known as fungi ; Ihey are oflen used and served like vegetables. Mutton-lhc me'J.\ of sheep slaughtered :lfler they reach the :lge of one year. NAMP/ L\tPS-ihe Institutional Meal Pur· chaSing SJ'L'Cifications (IMPS) published by the U.S. Department of Agriculture; the IMI'S are illustrated and described In 1be Meal Bllyer's Gllide published by the National Association of Meat Purveyors (NAMP). Nappc--{nap) (1) the consistency of a liquid, usuall}' a sauce, th:!t will coat the back of a spoon: (2) 10 coat a food wilh S:lllce. Nectar-lhe dilu ted, sweetened juice of peaches, apricots, guavas, black curranb or other fruilS, the juice of which \\'olild be too thick Of too lart to drink Sll"iligh1. Noisctte-(nwJh·ZC!) (I) a small, usual~' rou nd, portion of mea t cut from lite rib or loin, (2) Fr. for hazelnut. Noodles--flat strips of pasta·type dough tim contains eggs; may be fresh or dried.
Monounsaturated fats-sec Unsatu· rated fats. Monter au beurre--<mohn.tay ah burr) to finish a sauce by swirling or whisking in bUller (raw or compound) until it is melted; used to give sauces shine, flavor and richness.
Nouvc Ue cuisine--(Fr. for new cook· ing) a mid-2Oth-century mo\,ement away from Illany classic cuisine principles and toward :t lighter cuisine based on IUlUraI flavors, shonened cooking times and innovative combinations.
Mortar a nd pestle-a hard bowl (the mortar) in which fexxls such as spices are ground or pounded into :1 powder with a clulrshaped tool (the pestle).
Nut--
kernel shell; or fruit shelL
GIJJSSARY Nutrien lS-{he chemical substances found in food that nourish thc bod}' by promoting growth, facilil3ling body functions and providing energy; there are six categories of nutrients: proteins. carbohydrates, fats, water, minerals and vitamins. Nutrition-the science tlm studies nutrients. Oblique cuts-:llso known :as roll cuts, sm:all piC<."eS of food. usually vegetables, with two :tngle-cut sidcs. Offal-also called variety me:us, edible enlrJils (for example, the hean, kidneys, liver, sweetbreads and tongue) and extremities (for eX:lmplc, oxt:li! and pig's feet) of an animal. Oignon brOlec--{ohn-nawng brew-by) (Fr. for burnt onion) charred onion halves; used to navor and color stocks ~nd sauce>.
Pan gravy-a sauce made by degl3zing pan drippings from roast meat or poUltry and combining them with a roux or other Sl:lrch and Slock. PapiUo le, en----(awn poppy-y(){e) a cooking method in which food is Wr:lpped in paper or foil and then heated so that the food Heams in its own moisture. Parboiling-panially cooking a food in a boiling or simmering liqUid: similar to blanching but the cooking time is longer. Parchment ( paper}-heat-resisl3n1 paper used throughout the kitchen for t:lsks such as lining baking pans, wrapping foods to be cooked en papil101e and covering foods durir.g sh:dlow poltching. Parcooking--partially cooking a food by Jny cooking method.
Oignon piquc--(ohn-n:lwng p<."C-kay) (Fr. for pricked onion) a IXly Icaf tacked with :l clo\'e 10 :l peeled onion; used to f1a\'or sauccs :lnd soups.
Paring knife-a short knife used for detail work, especially culling fruil~ and n>getables; it has a rigid bbde approximately 2.-...4 inches long.
Oil-:l type of fat that remains liquid :It room tcmper:lture.
Parstock or par-the :lmount of stock n("'CeSSary to cover operating need~ between deliveries.
Organic farming-a method of farming that does not rely on synthetic pesticides, fungicides, herbicides or fenil izers. Oven s pring-the rapid rise of yeast goods in a hot oven, resulting from the produl1ion and expansion of tr:lpped gases. Paillardc--{p:thy-bhrd) a sc:tllop of meat pounded until thin: it is usually grilled. Panada or panade-(]) something other than f:l1 added to a forcemeat 10 enhance smoothness, aid cmulsifiGuion or both; it is often bCch:lJllei. rice or crustless white bread soaked in milk: (2) a mixture for binding stuffings and dumplings. notably quenelles, often chaux pastry, bread crumbs, frangipane. purffiJ potatoes or rice. Pan-broiling-a dry-he:ll cooking mcthod that uses conduction to transfer heat to :I food resting directly on a cooking surf:lcc: no fat is used and the food remains uncovered. Pan-dres.scd-a market form for fish in which the vi.scera, gi1l.~ :md SC'Jles :Ire removed and Ihc fins :lnd tail :Ire trimmed. Pan-fryin g-a dry-he:lt cooking mcthod in which food is placed in a moderate amount of hot fal.
Pasla-(]) :In unleavened past:c or dough made from wheat flour (often semolinJ), water and ew; the dough can be colored and f1anxed with a wide variety of herbs. spices or other ingredients Jnd cut or extruded into a wide variety of shapes and sizi.'"s: it can be fresh or dried and is boiled for service; (2) generJI term for any m:tcaroni pr<xlltct or egg noodle. Pasteurizalion-the pro~ess of heating a liquid to a prescribed temper:lture for a specific period in order to destroy pathogenic bacteria. Paslillage-a paste made of sugar, cornstarch and gelatin; it may be cut or molded into decorative shapes. Paslry crt:'a m- also known as creme patissiere, a stirred custard made with egg yolks, sugar and milk and thickened with starch: u.s<.-d for pastry :lnd pie fill ings. Pate--(paht) Fr. for dough. PalC---(pah-tay) traditionllly, a fine savory meat filling Wr:lppcd in pastry, bakl.."'
1131
served cold: today, the words /XIII! and Icm'IlC are gcner:llly used interchangeably. Pate a choux----(paht ah shoe) see Eclair paste. Pate au palC--(paht :lh pah-tay) a specially formulated pastry dough used for wrJPping pjtC when making pate en croute. Pate bris('C-(paht brce-zay) a dough that pr<xluces a very flaky baked produd contai ning lillie or no sugar; flaky dough is u.s<.-d for prebaked pie shells or crusts; mcaly dough is a less flaky product used for custard, cream or fruit pic cruSl~ . pate en croulc-(pah-Iay awn croot) a p:ltc Ixlkt.'(] in pastry dough such as p:ite au pjte. Patc fcuillell.'t.'---('paht fuh-yuh-I:ty) also known as puff pastry, it is a rolled-in dough us(,'(] for pastries, cookies and savory produds, it produa."S a rich and buttery but not swcct baked prodUd with hundr(."'
Pcarllng--'J milling process in which all or part of the hull, bran and germ are rcmon.'(! from the grain. Pcctin-a gdttinlike carbohydrate oblain('(] from cenain fruits, US<.-d to thicken jams and jellies. Pcrsillade--(payr-se-yad) (1) a food served with or containing parsley; (2) a mixture of bread crumbs, parsley and garlic used to coot meats. usually lamb. pH--a symlx>1 for the level of acidity or alkalinity of:t solution: expressed on a scale of 0 to 14.0; 7.0 is considered neutral or balanced acid/alkaline. The lower
(
1132
C/JJ5WI)'
the pH value, the more acidic the sulr
Professional cooking-:t system of cooking lxtsed uJxm a knowledge of and appreciation for ingredients and procePhyUo---{fec-]ow) P.1Stl)' clough made dures. with vcry thin shl..-cts of:t nour :md W:lter mixture; S(.,\'Cr:l] sh<.'els arc oflen Profllerole-{pro-feet-uh-roll) small layered with melted buller and used in round pastry made from eclair paste sweet or savory preparations. filled with a savol)' filling and served as :m hors d"ocuvre or filled with ice cream Physical hazards-a danger to the and .served as a dessert. safety of food C"Jus<.'(! by P:U1idcs such as chips, metal shavings, bits of wood or Proofing-the rise given shaped yeast other foreign mauer. prodUdS just prior to baking. Pigmcnt-:my substance that gIves color PrOIt:lJI~J group of compounc.ls com10 an item. posed of oxygen, hydrogen, carbon and nitrogen atoms necessary for manufadltrPilaf-a cooking method for grains in ing. maintaining and repairing body tiswhich the grains an.:! lightly sallteed in sues and as an alternative source of enhOI Elt and then a hOI liquid is :Iddcdj ergy (4 calories per gram); protein the mixture is simmered without stirring chains are constructed of various combiuntil the liquid is absorbed. nations of amino acids. Poaching-a moist-he:u cooking method Puff pastry-see Pate feuW et{'C. th:ll uses convection 10 Ir'Jnsfer heat PuUcd sugar-a doughlike mixture of from a hot (approximately lGo°F-I80°F sucrose, glucose and t:inaric acid that [7 1°C-B2°C]) liquid to the food subcan be colored and shaped by h:tnd. merged in il. PolyunsalUr-atcd falS-S<.'e Unsaturated Pulscs----dricd .seeds from a vari{.'1Y of legumes. fats. PumpernickeJ-(J) coarsely ground rye Pornes-members of tl\c ROS/lcetlC famnour; (2) bread made with this flour. ily, they are tree fruits with a thin skin and fiml nesh surrounding a centrJI core Purte----
Raft- formed during the clarification process from the cleanneat and impurities from the stock; it rises to the lOp of the simmering Stock and releases additional fla\"Ors. Ragoul----<mh-goo) (1) traditionally, a well-scasoned, rich stew containing meat, vegetables and wine; (2) any stewed mLxturc. Ramckin-a small, ovenproof dish, usu· ally ccmmic. Rancidity-:t chemical change in fat;, cauS<..-d by exposure 10 air, light or heat that results in ohjectionable flavors and odors. Rc..'<:ipc-a set of written inS[nlCtions for producing a specific food or beverage: :lIso known as a formula. Recovery timc.." -the length of time it takes hot fat to return to the desired cooking lempemture after food is suI>merged in it. Rcduce..o...to cook a liquid mixture, ofien a S.1Uce, until its quantity decreases tx-.. C"Juse of evaporation; typically done to concentrate navors and thicken liquids. Rcfrcshing---,submcrging a food in cold waler to quickly cool it and pre\"ent further cooking. also known as shocking; usually US<..'
GlMWlr its own fat and served cold and usually spread on toast. Ripe-(I) fully grown and developed fruit; the fruit's navar, texture and appearance are at their peak and the fruit is ready to eat; (2) an unpleasant odor indicating that a food, especially meat, poultry, fish or shellfish, may be past its prime. RisoUo----(re-ZOHOC) (I) a cooking method for grains in which the grains are lightly sauteed in butter and then a liquid is gradually added; the mixture is simmered with near-constant stirring until the still-firm gmins merge with the cooking liqUid; (2) a Northern letlian rice dish prepared this way. Roasting-:t dry-heal cooking method that healS food by surrounding it with hOI, dry air in a closed em'ironmem or on a spit over an o~n fire : similar to baking, the lenn roastillg is usually applied to meats, poultry, game and vegetables. Roe-{roh) fish eggs. Roll cuts-see Oblique culS. Rolled·in do ugh-a dough in which a fat is incorporated in many Iaycrs by using a rolling and folding procedure; it is used for naky baked goods such as croissants, puff pastry and d:mish. Ro ndeau-{ron-doc) a shallow, wide, straight-sided pot with two loop handles. Rondellcs-(ron-deHs) or rounds, diskshaped slices of cylindrical vegetables or fruits. Rotisserie--cooking equipment that slowly rot:l1es me:!! or other foods in front of a heating clement. Roulade---{roo-l:ahd) (I) a slice of meat, poultry or fish rolled around a sluffmg; (2) a filled and rolk.-d spongt.'cake. Ro und fish-fish with round, oval or
compressed lxxlil.-'S that swim in a \'ertical position and ha\'e eyes o n both sides of Iheir heads: include salmon. swordfish and cod. Rounding-the process of shaping dough into smOOl:h, round balls; used to stretch the outside layer of gluten into a smooth cooting. Ro ux-{roo) a cooked mixture of equal parts nour :md fat , by weight, used as a thickener for sauces and other dishes; cooking the flour in fat coals thc starch granules with the fal and preventS Ihem
from lumping together or fonning lumps when imroduccd into a liquid. Royal icing-also known as decor:llor's icing, an uncooked mixlure of confectioner's sugar and egg whites th.1l becomes hard and brittle when dry; used for making intricate cake decorations. Russian senice-restaurant service in which the entree, \'egetables :md starches are served from a planer onto the diner's plate by a waiter. Sabayo n-{sa-by-on) also known as zabaglione, a foamy, stirred custard sauce made by whisking eggs, sugar and wine over low heat. Sachcl d 'cpices or sachel-{sah-shay day-pea-say) (Fr. for bag of spices) aromatic ingredients tied in a cheesecloth bag and used to flavor stocks and other foods; a standard sachet contains p:uskl' stems. cracked peppercorns, dried thyme, bay leaf. cloves and, optionally, garlic. Salad-a single food or a mix of difTerent foods accompanied or bound by a dressing. Salad dressing-a sauce for a salad; most are based on a vinaigreue, mayonnaise or other emulsified product. Salad greens----a variety of le-Jfy vegetables that arc usually eaten raw. Salam ander- a small broiler used pri· marily for browning or glazing the tOps of foods. Salsa-{sahl-sah) (51" for sauce) (I) gen· emily, a cold chunky mixture of fresh herbs, spices, fruits and/or vegetables used as a sauce for meat, poultry, fish or shellfish; (2) in Italian usage, a genera! term for pasta sauces. Salt curing-the process of surrounding a food with salt or a mixture of salt, sugar, nitrite-based curing sah, herbs and spices; salt curing dehydrates the food, inhibits bacterial growth and adds fbmr. Sanitatlon-the creation and maintenance of conditions that will pre\'ent food contamination or food-borne ilI-
""'.
Sanitize---{o reduce pathogeniC organisms to safe levels, usually with heat or chemical disinfectants. Sashimi---(sah-shce-mee) raw fish eaten without rice; usually served as the firsl course of a Japanese meal. Saturated fats-fats found mainly in animal products and tropical oils; they are
1133
usually solid al room temperature. The body has more difficulty breaking down saturated fats than either monounsaturated or polyunsl1urated fats. Sauce-generally, a thickenL-d liquid used to navor and enhance OIher foods. Sausagc-a seasoned forceme-.II usually Sluffed into a C"Jsing: a sausage can be fresh , smoked and cooked, dried or hacd. Sautelng---(s:lw-lay-ing) a dry-heat cooking method that uses conduction to transfer heat from a hot pan to food wilh the aid of a small amount of hOt fa t; cooking is usually done quickly over high tempcr:llures. Sautcusc-(saw-toose) the basic saute pan with sloping sides and a single long handle. Sauloir-{S:lw-twahr) a saute pan with StT3ight sides and a single long handle. Sa~'ory---(l)
spiced or seasoned, as oppoS<.-d to sweet, foods; (2) (s:J\'oury) a highly St..':lsoned last course of a traditional English dinner. Scald-to heal :1 liquid, usually milk. to just below the boiling point. Scallop--(Fr. esca/ope) a thin, boneless slice of meat. Score-to cut shallow gashes across the surface of a food before cooking. Scoville Ileal Vn ils-a subjecth'e rating for measuring a chile's heal: Ihe sweet bell pepper usually I'Jtes 0, the I:lbasco rates from 30,000 to 50,000 and the ha b~i\era rates from 100,000 to 300,000 units. Seafood-an inconsistently uS<.'"d tenn encompassing some or all of the following: saltwater fish , freshwater fish, s:Jhwater shellfish, freshwater shellfish, (){her edible marine life. Sear-to brown food quickly over high heal; usually done as a preparatory step for combination cooking methods. Season---(l) traditionally. to enhance flavor by adding salt; (2) more commonly, to enhance flavor by adding s:llt and/or pepper as well as herbs and spices; (3) to mature and bring a food (usually beef or game) to a proper condition br aging or special preparation; (4) 10 prepare a pol. p~n or Dlher cooking surface to prevent sticking. Seasonlng-Ifaditionally, an item added to enhance the natuml flavors of a food
(
1134
GWSSARY
without drJll1atically changing its tIS!C; S3h is the most common se'Jsoning although all herbs and spices are often referred to as :>C:lsonings. Senti a la carte-a menu on which some foods <usually apJX.1izers and desserts) and beverages are priced and ordered scparJlcly, while the cmri.'C is accompani<.>d by and priC(,'d to include Dlher dishes such as a s:lbd, starch or
vegetable. Semlfn.:'tldi--{l>C1L-mcc-frJyd·dcc) ;Lbo
known
:IS
still-frozen dessens, made with
frozen motlsse, custard or cream into which large amounts of whipped cre:lI11 or meringue arc folded in order 10 incarpor:lte air; layers of spongecllkc :In(l/or (mits Ill:!y be :ldck"{1 for navor and lexlUre; they include frozen SQufl\cs. milr-
quis, mousses :m
oons,
Shallow poac hing-a moist-hem cooking method that combines poaching and steaming; the food (usually fish) is phced on a vegetable bed and partially co\'ered with a liquid (ulisson) and simmered. Shellfis h-aquatic invertebrates with shells or C'Jr:Lpaces. Sherbet--a frozen mixtuI'C of fmit juice or fmit puree that contains milk and/or egg yolks for creaminess. Shocking-see Refreshing. Shonening--(I):1 white, fbvorless, solid fat formul:Hcd for b:lking or deep-frying; (2) any fat used in baking to tcnderize the product by shortening gllllen stl"Jnds. Shred--to cut imo thin but irregul:lr strips. Shuc k--( 1) a shell, pod or husk; ( 2) to remove the edible portion of a food (for example. clam me:u, pea and ear of corn) from its shell, pod or husk. Side masking-dlc technique of cooting only the sides of a C'Jke with garnish. Sih--(J) to sh:lke :1 dry, powder<."(\ substance through a sieve or siflCr to remove lumps and incorporate air; (2) to mix together powdery substanccs by sifting. Silverskln--the tough connedivc tissue th:1I surround~ certain musclL's: sec Elastin.
Simmering-O) a moist-heat cooking method that uses convection to transfer heat from a hot (approx. J8;of-20;oF 185°C-96°C]) liquid to Ihe food submerged in it; (2) maintaining the temperature of a liquid juS!. below the boiling point. Skim--to remove fat and impurities from the surface of a liquid during cooking. Slice-lo CUt an item into relativcly broad, thin picn:s. Slurry-a mixture of raw sl:lrch and cold liquid used for thickening. Small sauces-also known :IS COIllpound sauces, mJde by adding one or more ingredients to a leading .';auce: they are grouped together into families b:lse
Spring lamb-the meat of sheep slaugillered before they ha\'c fed on grass or grains. Spun s ugar-a decoration made by flicking dark caramelized sugar rapidly over a dowel to create long, fine, mirlike th reads. Squab-the class of young pigeon used in food service oper:Jtions. Staling-also known as starch retrogrn· d:lIion, a change in the distribution and locJtion of water molecules within b:J.ke
[000;.
Standard breading procc.:dure-the procedure fOf coating foods with (rumhs or me:l] by JXlssing the food through nour, then an egg wash and then the crumbs; it gives foods a relati\'ely thick. crisp cooting when deep-fried or JUn· fried.
Smoke poinl--the temperature at which a fat begins to break down and emit smoke.
Sta ndardized recipe--a recipe producing a known quality and quantity of food for a specific operation.
Smoking-any of several methods for preserving and navoring foods by exposing them to smoke, includes cold smoking (in which the food~ are not fully cooked) and hot smoking (in which the foods are cooked).
Sta ples--< I) certain foods regularly used throughout the kitchen; (2) certain foods, usually starches, that help fonn the b:bIs for a regional or n:nional cuisine and lfI' principal components in the diet.
Solid pack--<:anned fruits or vegetables with little or no water added. Sorbet-(sore-bay) a frozen mixture of fru it juice or fruit puree; simil:ir to sherbet but without milk products. Souffl(-----(soo-nay) either a sweet or S:Ivory nuffy dish made with a custard base lightened with whipped egg whites and then baked; the whipJ'L'1:1 egg whites cause the dish to puff when baked. Sous-chef--(soo-shef) a cook who supervises food ProdU(1ion and who repons to the executive chef; he or she is :>eI,;ond in command of:, kitLllcn. Specifications or sp«S--Standard requirements to be followed in procuring items from suppliers. Spices-any of a group of strongly navored or aromatic portions of plants (other than leaves) used as navorings, condiments or aromatics. Springform pan-a circular b.1king pan with a separate bottom and :1 side wall held together with :l damp that is released to free the baked product.
Starch--(I) complex: carbohydrates from plants that arc edible and either digestible or indigestible (fiber); (2) a rice. grain, pasta or potato accomp~nimcnt to :1 me:l!. Starc h retrogradation-see Staling. Starchy potatoes-see Mealy potatoes. Static me nu--a menu offering patrons the sallie foods every day. Station c hef--the cook in charge of :I particul:JC depanment in a kitchen. Steak--( 1) a cross-section slice of a round fish with a small section of the hem,>
;1II~dJ(-'(i :
(2)
~ CIlI
of me:ll, l"ilM
with or without the bone. Steame r--( 1) a SCI of stacked pots with perforations in the bottom of each pot, they fit over :I larger pot filled with boiling o r Simmering \V'Jter and are used to steam foods: (2) a perfor'Jted insert m:lde of mdal or b:lmboo placed in a pot and used 10 steam foods: (3) a type of soft-shell clam from the East Coast: (4) :1 pi<.-'Ce of gas or electric equipment in which foods arc steamed in a sealed chamber.
GWSWiY
Stcaming-a moist-heat cooking mcthexl in which heat is transferred from steam to the food being cooked by direct contact; the food to be steaTrk."'
Subprimal cuts-ihe basic cuts produced from each prima. Sucrose-the chemicd name for refint.'{j or t3ble sugar. it is refined from the r:LW sugars found in the large tropiC'J.I grass called sug:tr cane and the root of the sugar beet; it is available as white or brown grnnules, molasses or powdert-d sugar. Sugar-a carix:lhydrate that provides the body with energy and gives a SW<.'CI taste to foods. Sugar syrups--either simple syrups (thin mixtures of sugar and water) or cooked syrups (melted sugar cooked until il rc~lches a specif.c temper:lIl1re). Supreme--(su-prem) ( I) ;I sauce made by adding cream to a velOlllC made from chicken stock: it is used to make several compound sauces of the \'eloutt! family: (2) a boneless, skinles.s chicken breast with Ihe first wing segment :ut:lcht.'{j. SusW--(szu-she) cooked or raw fish or shellfish rolled in or served on seasoned rice. Swcating-
St.'C
Prix
fixe. Tang-the ponion of:l knife's blade thai extends inside the handle. Tart-a sweet or saml)' filling in :I bakt"(l crust made in a sh:tllow, stmightsided pan without a top crust. Tartlet-a small, single-serving mn. Tempcrarurc danger 7.one-the broad range o f temperatures :Jetween 4QoF :lnd 140"F (4°C-6OO<:) at which baderia multiply rapidly. Tempcring--(I) heating gently and gradually: (2) refers to Ihe process of slowly adding .1 hOI liquid to eggs or
1135
other foods to raise their tempemture witham causing them to curdle; (3) refers 10 a process for melling chocolate. Terrine-(l) tr:Lditionally,:I loaf of :t covered earthenware mold and without :t crust: loday. the word is used interchange'.!bly with /Xlle; (2) the mold used to cook such items. usually a rectangle or O\'al shape :lIld made of cCr:.lmic.
coorsc forccmC'dt cooked in
Thickening agents--ingrcdients used to thicken sauces. include starches (flour. cornst:lrch :lnd arrowroot), gelatin and li-
aisons. Timbale--(tim·bull) (I) a small pailshaped mold used to shape foods: (2) prcp~r:Ltioll m:lclc in such a mold.
.1
Tisanes--(teh·zahns) beverages made from herbal infusions that do not contain any tca. Tomato saUCC-:1 Ie:lding sauce made from tomalocs. vegetables, seasonings and white stock: it mayor may not be thickened with roux. Toque-(toke) the tall white hat worn by chefs. TOMt' -in Central and Eastern European usage, refers to a rich cake in which all or pan of the flour is replaced with finely chopped nuts or bread crumbs. Tossed salad-a salad prepared by p13cing the greens, garnishes and salad dreSSing in a large bowl and tOSSing to combine. l'ourner--(toor-nay) (Fr. for to turn), to CUI food.s, usually vegetables, into f001b:lll-shapt'd pieces with seven equal sides and blunt ends. Toxins-byproduds o f living bacteria tIm can CHlSC illness if consumed in sufficient quantities. Tranche--(tranch) an angled slice CUt from fish fillets. Tri pc-lhe L'(liblc lining of a cow's stomach. Trufflcs--(J) flavorfultubcrs that grow ncar the roots of oak or beech trees; (2) rich chocolate candies made wilh ganachc. TrusS--lo tie JX1Ultry with butcher's twine into a mmpad shape for cooking. Tube pan-a deep round b:lking pan with a hollow tube in the center. Tubcr-the fleshy root. stem or rhizome of a pbnt from which .1 new plant will
(
1136
GI.a5S-lRI'
grow; some, such as pD(:nc>cs, are eaten as \·egct:tbles.
and mule deer; it is Iypically :t le:tn, d:trk red meal with a mild aroma.
monly expressed as grJIl1S. ounces and pounds.
TunneUng-the holes that may form in baked goods as the result of o\'er-
Vent--(I) 10 allow the circulation or ('''Scape of a liquid or gas; (2) 10 cool a pot of hot liqUid by setting Ihe pot on blocks in a cold water bath and allowing cold water to circulate around it.
Whetstolle-'J dense, grained stone usc..>J to sharpen or hone a knife blade.
mixing. Univalves-single-shclled mollusks with
a single muscular fOOl ..~uch as abalone. UnsalUr'ated fat-fats that arc normally liquid (oils) :u room lempct:llurc; they m:J.y be monouns;l1ur.w:.--d (from plants such as o]i\'es :md aVDC:Idos) or polyun-
salUf'Jlcd (from grains and .seeds such as corn, soybe:l1lS and safflower as well as from fish).
Vanilla custard sallce-also known as creme :lngbi... c. a stirred cust:lrd m:lde wilh egg yolks, sugar :md milk or halfand-half and flavored with vanilla;
served with or used in dessen preparations. Vanillin--{l) whitish crystals of vanilla flavor that often develop on vanilla beans during slomge; (2) synthetic
vanilla f1a\·oring. Variety-lhe rcsuh of breeding pl:mts of the same species that have different qualities or charaderistics; the new plant often combines fealUres from both parents. Variety meats--see Offal. Veal-the mC:lt of calves under the age of nine months. Vegetable-refers to :my herbaceous plant (one with little or no woody tis· sue) that CO.1n be partially or wholly eaten; vegetables can be classified as cabbages, fNit-vegetabl es, gou rds and squashes. greens, mushrooms and truffles, onions, pods and seeds. roots and tubers, :md stalks. veloUli---(veh-loo-t:ty) a leading sauce made by thickening a while stock (either fish, veal or chicken) with roux. Venison-meat from any member of Ihe deer family, including elk, moose, reindeer, red-t:tiled deer, while-tailed deer
Vinaigrette-{vin-nay-greht) a tempor:uy emulsion of oil and vinegar (usually three parts oil 10 one part vinegar) seasoned with herbs, salt and pepper; used as a salad dressing or sauce. Vinegar-;t thin, sour liquid used as a preservative, cooking ingredienl :md cleaning solution. Viruses-the smallest known form of life; they inv;tde the living cells of a hosl and lake over those cells' genetic material, causing the cells to produce more viruses; some vil1.lscs can enter a host through the ingestion of food contarninaled with those viruses. Viscera-internal organs. Vitamins----compounds present in foods in very small quantities; they do nOi provide energy but are essential for regulating body fund ions. Vol-au-vent-{vul-oh-van) a large. deep puff pastry shell often filled with a savory mixture for a main course. Volume--the space occupied by a substance; volume measurements are commonly expressed as liters, teaspoons, tablespocms, cups, pints and gallons. Wash-a glaze applied to dough before baking; a commonly used wash is made with whole egg and water. Water bath-see Hain marie. Water pack--canned fmits with water or fruit juice added. Waxy potatoes-r.hosc with a low sta rc h content and thin skin; Ihey are best for boiling. Weight-the mass or heaviness of a sulr stance; weight measurements are com-
Whipping-a mixing method in which foods arc vigorously beaten in order to incorpor.ue air; a whisk or an electric mixer with its whip attachment is used. While stew-see Fricassee and Dian· que ue. White stock-a light-colored stock made from chicken. veal, beef or fish bones simmered in water with vegeta· bles 3nd seasonings. Whitewash-a thin mixture or slurry of fl our and cold water used like cornstarch for thickening. Winc-an alcoholic bcventge made from the fernlentt..-'d jtlice of grapes; may be sparkling (effervescent) or still (noneffer· ~·escen t) or fortified with additional alcohol. Work section-see Work station. Work s tation-a work area in the kitchen dedicated to a particular task, such as broiling or salad making: work stations using the same or similar equip" ment for related tasks are grouped to. gether into work .sections. Yeasts-microscopic fungi whose merabolic processes are responsible for fermentation; they arc used for lea\'ening bread and in cheese, bccr and wine making. Yicld-(l) the total amount of a food item created or remaining after trimming or fabricoJtionj (2) the 10tai amount of a product made from a specific recipe. Yield grades-a grading program for meat that measures the amount of usable meat on a carcass. Zcst-the thin. colored part of a citrus peeL Zushi-{zhoo-she) the seasoned rice used for sushi.
Ammonia. baking. 889 AnJdrQrOOlJs FIsh, ,tss Ana ..robic l);Iclcria. 24 AnnsazlHeanJus . SO l A n"",a~' Hean Slew, 501 Andouille . 1107 An!!,,1 food ca k.. s. 997--98, 1003-4 chacol ..... l004 Angk'f fi~h (monkli
An ..sian-wcll w"lcr. ~I Anichoke(s). Wi-95 and spInach dip. 850--51 Ankhokll.' ~'rlll"UI, S5 1-5Z An lchokcs Stufrl'l1 wll h llall~n Sau s..gc.6Z5 _ 26 Ankh oke wedges. 452 Am liclal SWeelcners. 4R AJ\lgub,684 Ascorbic aC;d (";13min C), 4Z
""'-n.584
A.,/stlk/s. 26
ASiago.
Acorn squ~>h.
AnlS<'. 124. 129 Anjou pc-~rs. 731 Ann. Qo<..... n of f.ngland. 145 An"", [)uciM."S5 ci Bedford. 145 An"" poc3!Od. 640 Anodi>.ed "Ium,num cook"",,,,. 84 Amelopc. 432, 435. 437
crust,.,i, blanula 011".. ~n.d. f!.I8 Asian C h icken Sa l:ul. 7 14 - 15 Aston noodlc>. 652. 653 ch,lIcd Chin<::\;e noodle s:o bd. 677 Aes (lbikons). 593-94 AsIan sp;c.". w.rm dud lxea.<.! \:ll;od wnh. and tu>.elnUl Vln;ll/.Ul1te. 421_22 Asp:""gus, 59'S s;tU!CcU s;tlmon w~h 11lO<'Cls "nd.
Abaklne. 465 AhoYl·"'. II MeM,lf,,,,e K (Sunnene). 411 Ac hlol e. B"-~led Rac k of\'"nlwn wllll Sm o kl"
584 Act;"e dl)' )",aSl. 909 AdditJ\'<$. 49 A=bc hact<."rl:l. 24 Ag;.. Suleiman. 143 Agriculture adv:ml",,,,..nts in. 9 b:>ck·tOott...4xlSic< appro:.och 10.
>0 AIDS.29 ;., Ia C'~ne. 61 Alaslon halibut. 464 Albuf.. r~ ""UoCeS. 201 Albumen.5}6 Alcohol. boiling point of waler and. 176 Alcoholic b<.:""r~g,,<. in haking. !:1m AIe..stea ml"
m
Allu'''''lIe. III Almond Cream. 9115 "s [)~ni...h 1':1.>11)' fillong. 9~ fresh peach un "·ilh. 9f!4-85 A1mood Fina n cier. 980 Almonds. 132-33. 134 c:mdied. 988-119
AIstOO. I'Ji1.;obl'1h. 1'I9O AIt..-nulivo. iflgn,di<.'nt. 47-68 Aluminum cook"~~re. 84 Americ:ln (Atlantic) ~ers. 466 buffalo. s..... Hi."", (An..,...;c:an buffalo) American Cmn-' SodeIy. 44 Aml.'rk-~n CiM.-ddar. 158-59. 161 Amcric:o.n Hearl ASSOC~lion, 4j-44 A"",rk-.tn Rlod en"",. 34 AI11<."OC.n ,;o,rvjn,. 12 An>cric'Jn Slul)ll'OO , .tv;;' •. 834 Am•.'riCln-.>I)·I.. blnlplcl hutt .. ,,__ream.10 1I _ 12 Amino acid~, 40_41 AnIt'fiC'~n
br'~ISCd.
III SOUr crc~m, +(1-+1
point. 392 Appen. fr~"..oo.. 9 Appet'1.t.'f5. Se..Cmapk, HOtS d'oeuvre, Pale, Souftl6s: ~
T"rrinc(s)
Apple(s),73O-31 baked. 7~5 br'~L,,--d n.-d c~bb"gl' wilh win~ 3nd.629 dricd , 742 fell y. 749 roo.it ~ willI c~ IJb:og<: .nd, 424-25 rollS! phe3s.m "';Ih cognac and.
449-SO Slumng. buck",h".1 crepes wi!h s>us>g<: and. 5S4-SS Apple ddc.-. braised c hicken with C'~sho:w boiler and. 420-21 Ap ple-Cnnbcrry I'le. 951-S2 Ap ple Frlne"" S69 Apple "'orscnKlish Sauce. 226 Applesauce, 756 - 57 Ap p iQaucll.' Bro"' n lcs, 103s--3-6 Apple un. french. 979 Apprcmi<;n (commu), II. 13 Aprioot(').732 "-' If.tnish P:OSlry IiIhng. 939 drilod, 742
!;om. 749 AI.rkoc Sauce, 843 Apricot Sorbet.. 1074 Aquaculture. :K!v-.t"""n>ents in. 9 A'I u "famlln.l\,4SS Ar~l>ka coIf« bc~,,-<. 139 ... rborio rice. 644 Arca chds. 13
' Note, Kec' pt.' " and Ih e paKC(H) In w h ic h Ihe y a r e located a r e In bold.
Aroou of coff....., 141 Arol1latic pbnts, 120
ltock. lamh. 339 ll,,~k w,lilcrs (demi chefs de
ArrowfOOl. 19S
160
>0, -"i •. fri<.'I1. with s!lIilake l1lu,hrooms. 607 and tOmatO s;,lad with fr.. sh mo1.1.;trella,700_701 ASp,na"", (Nutr~'wrtt·). 48 ASpic felly. 799. 800 glning p,lt(: ~ lk ..s with . fI03 Aspic l.. rri .....S, 799-800 As-purch"scd (A.!'.) COS(.<. 69 Assam tea. 144 Assist~n~< (UI'ml-cbtft). II. 13 All,mic (Amerk-~n o. Eastern) ~ers.466
Ali.:;mlic cod, 459 Atlantic halibul. 464 Atlamic turd·~hell cblllS (quahow;).465
Atlantic ""Imon. 461
,.
Atrno:spi>cre. tuctcrial /I"""th and. Au jus. 215. 275 AUn! Ruth le '~ Pot R"""' I, ZII7 Aurora s;tucc, 200 Avoc:ooo. 577-7lI and ~hrimp omelet. S43~4 -,o.l1h",,,,",,,,n grillcd d>ccsc """"""ich ""th chipock: purf:e ~nd. m Avocado Sa lsa. 1148
"
r~ng).
It,<:On. SOil
b,k~-d "lOOk~ s h
panl...ll".
wilh, 512-13
1109
"in~il!"'l!"', grilkod ..,.,kd I"'~r
wilh shclT)'. 710_1l 21-24
~I~d lla('!eri~.
11:I~1. 9!6
H,klod AI:bk~. 1055 Raked Apl'l"". 745 Raked Rcan s . 627 Rakll.'d Butte rnut Squash. 605 Raked MlI.'rlngtJll.'. 987 Raked Mon kfish with Bacon .
512-13 Raked Pota~ 637--38
Saked Red SnapP"'r with Slar Fruil Chu lney. 486 Ibkcd Z Iti w ith FrII.'Sh Tomato Sauce. 67S-76 I"'ket. 11",,1)'. 1005 IbklTs cornh. 1022 ltokds -""'!c. 82 Ibke.
Aavoring._.1175_80 ~lcoh()lic
l""wr.tg<."S. SIlO
chornl.t .., 876 - 80 emulsions and exl"'CIS. 876 v~nill" . 876
noo"".864-67 aging ~nd l>Ie3ching. 865 an.p"I'JXl."C. 865 rotllpor;ltion ci. 86S-66 lluuiuOfl:ll ,.,.1...,.. ci. 867 purctu..ing,nd Slonng. 867 specl:&l1y.866-67 wile:ol .864-65 miJtlng methods. 881 "'-'8" •. 867-69 bl'O"..... 869. lOb) cook'ng. 871-73 mJx,.869 history ci, 1168 manufacturing of. 868 powdered or ronfeclioner'S.
'"
Bohy Il'IIUl''''', 6!lj B"by WK~1~hl"$. 596
r~ w. 868 refiru..od ( l:IbI .. ). 868 ....'8ulJ. grJ nulat~od, 868. 869 ""ndin!!.869
1/37
1138
INDEX
lkIk ..."hop. (rom)
supo:rf""" or C"~."or. Ii69 IIIrhirudo (O<·"k."-~r.l SUlI"r).
"'.069 liquid, 1169-.]
~wtot:lenefS.
rom S)'''''I'. 810 hoo.-y. trO hnuosropic,8"'O m:lpk ~yrup. 870 mobsses. 8"'0 nu,nllo",,1 '''lues Q(, 870-71
salmon and sea 00"" lem"" "~,h spifUch and, 816-17 l\l.,.~nJed SC"411ops ""h gillg("f, ()f;J.ng<: and. 519 IlJsil buu("f. 211 grilloed squab "~Ih. 393-94 Dasll Vlnalgrem,. 663 Haskt"l mdhod of ""'-1>-frying. 562 Ib."""'ti rice. 644
11:1...,458 bL:Id:~.
.hidto:ncrs. 8"'4-'"5 tools and ~UIJ''')eru.lI8j-S4 c-.n.:"s, 1008-9 "AA', S40-42 Ash. 48~ -86 [)OIaloe.<, 637-39 p~",
of, 81:11-83 shellfish. 465-% ""'l!~1"hl ...<. 605 ofyc~.'! hrcJ(l_. 9 17-111 flO/king 'nn"'(»'i~ . 889 B;tkirlg powder. 1iRH-H9 U~k"')01 """b, 888 B.lal\O: >1<:".11", 82 11;0110011 whisk>. 79 1.I;.1101I;rw,804 lblsa"'k: "rid Roa.~I~'" Garlk \l1"a[g",II,=,. 704 Il:llsamk kaspbcrrk.,i, 452 Ib""mic villeg;ori), ]3-, 138 W"'n lenlils in. 429 ;"-rlc fo;" IU'~< wilh. 428-29
Ilanaruo Fnll.,.,., 7S4 - 55 !J:In"""" 734 Ban anas F~I"r. 754
458
sau,o'nl I=b. 484-85 Meafl){'tl, wilh .:IIlSho pcpp",.. 512 ~,
Chilean, grilloed. wilh alt:lS:l7j l~an Slew antl nopal c:octu •.",Is:t. <;00-502 pan·sean:,tl. with ]""", \,inaij(,,,lI c', 51 1-12 salmon lerrine wilh .
aoo
1l;'''Orlnl~,
113. 114
lIal1er, 744. IISI
Il;:.lIeri,*, for dccp.frying, 567-68 Il;:.unlC h)·dromo.1er, 871 Ibvarian cn:"Jm. 1048-50 f..... h frull. 1049-50 while chocob'e f".ngdico. 1068 Illy. 121
.• )
(k,~n(
IbnUm eggs. S36 llJrb:lry fig>, 71S-26
IxokC'd,627 black. soup , soulhweslem, colT"", 139-40 dned, 590-91
Ilarb<.'cue Sa~.
fresll, 589-90
Ibrull3 S<jUA';h. S80I
139. 22 '
IU r oooki<-5, 967 Barding.
Jil,lt-'Cn. S8')-9]
m...~!S. 270 llarlcy.645- 46
,<:ol~d
m
Hark}, Risotto. 44 1_42 Ibl'
",.",rs. 731
In
pu* soups,
256
of c"Ana ¢s, 830-31 <'01lHncrci"I, 1119 of oompoSl'tl $:Ilads. (f;)7 of de....,fI, 10')8 Basic Herry '\!umn ~, 899 RlLs1c Oran MumnS, 900 RlLs1c Corn M uffms, 902 Basic C ream l'ie, 9~ RlLs1c Duck Sa...,." 4 12-13 Basic Ecblr Pasle, 962-63 RlLsIc ~'on:cmeal, 791. 793-9').
794-9!i Raslc F..."..,h 8re:td. 924 Raslc Fudge Fro"fllng. 101!i 8aslc Game Fon:emcat. 1116 Raslc ......,... Dough.. 6!i!i Bask Pic Dough . ~4 Rask Slmmc:n:tl Rice:. 648 D:ask Sourdough tlre:>d. 930-3 1 Bask Sugar Glaze:. 1016 ",,-~Ic Vinaigrette O"""sln g, 69 1 113..1. 120, 119 h..~isetl cdery "'ilh, 613-14 chklr."" ""u,,; wi,h onions, garlic ~nd.402"",
cream.,J corn wilh, 62~ )I,iIll..1 shrimp wilh pro:«:hmu
a"d,859
." Ieak m,nUI". l>ijon;l lSC, 3<M-S
pq>p<."-, 306 S..·...... 306-~
T-borI<.".302
]"'"n ~I:"<'h "OO(n~S,
654
]!e,rnais<' SOlUet.', 208 llealing, 881 II(-ch,rneil, Loui.. de, 197 Okh"",., I. 197. 197--98,217 B....,f, .!92-3]0 aunt Rulhie's pot rna", 287 bu,ellcrinll 01. 299- 300 bed t«fll
broiled, wiTh herb bun.". and ""ulmJ ....,ks, 4&i- SS Slcamt."l!, with 1"'J'IX'f, m Black llC'an chili, '-""'Lson ~nd. U6 BI...:k be~n sauce. cluck.,.,. and snow peas in, 417 B1~ck bean soup. sou,h,,=em..
""""ho
'"
1I",,(alo, U3
1064-66
Ik..,{ bon"-,, for Slo.:k, HI!
Blackberry Cobble:... 975-76 llIackbcni•.'". 720 Hlackenoed Sleak Sandwich.
IkdBou"¥"lgnon . 308-9 Ikef Rrolh, 234 lkefCon,oommc.137
(k,efS' roganoff,30!i 1k"(:, -8alle red Onion
775-76 KlnJl.~,
567
Ik.-cr ·M"'illa ,ed l'ork
T"nd".lo ln , 371 Ik'<.1(S), 592 a "d bUllcrmi]k soup, ch illl'<.l, 2~59
chiolU;hl, sugar,
596
1167
\ 'In "lgrcllc, !i 11- 12 lkigtK't:I . %1 Ilclgi:m endive, 684 Hell P'-'Ppt'f, 1!5 spicy jell)'. grilk'tl f'Jck of Jamh Wllh roo.emary and, 348 IIdl)" pork, .*i2 Hd p.;Icsc. 156 Bduga c:ovi:lr, 8j4 Helug;! lA:nolhr. 661- 62 llo:rJlllxoum, R..- Levy, 878 Ildq sa"""" ]99 11cfT}'
1U"~lin
bmb s:IUSOlge with tricolor, 813-14 mix<'tl. 626 whire, «7 \.....~~."' \,.~""~~'" yell ow~n tuna willi, and ",:!sled peppers, 509-10 llean lwd (tofu ), 592
n""JI""", 456, 465-67 UI...:k bass. 458
81:ock Hea n Sp r(:a(l.. 782 8 1""kberry C hiffon Ch~,
IOO.......Jo,. 11 ....... ,,1. 304
! 4()
....
l\~\\
~ ribs 01, br~isetl. 30~-8 soup. hcany ""R"'able, 235-36
:.tearrulup round of, 278 SI""', hrown. 289
IlfOlkd, wi,h h,,'rb bull ..... and
lklking. 17~. 661
['();bl prime rib 01, au ,,"S, 2':'S-76
as s:mdwirh fillil\j!.. 7&1
'"
muffins. b.sic. 899 Ian. f=h, 981 Oerry Coml>ole. 156 (k,urn: Ulanc . 191,209-10, 2 10,
m d lruS, 224
225
prepa,inll. 209 Ikurre d'Anjou pe:",>" 731 lkurrc "'~ni~, 19') lkurrc IIOir. 209-]0 Oeur .... noiM'lIe. 209-10. 609 Ik'\lm: rouge, 191. 209-10. 217 Uinde"!, ;'89
lli<>lo!!ic:l1 «>nlamin~nts, 20, b:IcIcrl:I, 21-24 fungi, 27
21~27
par~.iI"". 24~26
vifUSe'l. 26-27 BIOIIn, 42 B,ni's beak kn ife. 81 m.~"ft lie 8"errr!. 890 lIiscuiT ""-1hod of mixing, 889-91 IIlSClIllS, 890
l'OUn'ry,891 7
BIson (AI'fll'f1C'~n buffalo).
'"
432-34.
gnlk'<.l >leak, 449 Bisqud<), 232. 233. 242-43
shrinlp.
Ill~nching.
In
of bones, 184 of "e)!t'labkos, 61r_8 BI~ nq~lt o f ..... mb. 354-55 Ilt~nq"'-1""'. Zifl. 288. .!90 Ilk"llders, 89 illending,881 Bhnllcs,~. 555 1I11l~ ('Iuick puff I"'-
.,,....
illood 'llga' (gluCO(;C) . .39 !\lonm,8S0 Bloomy rind, 155 Illud",..rics, 721 DI"cherr)' '\!urtlns, 892-93 H"...,herry Pie filling, 952-53
2~2-43
tlll1 .... ,."W~....1 ehocul.te. 1178
and 100.11 beef sandwich, 700 Hlut Corn a nd S hrimp Tama kt, 858-59 Btue Corn ,\Iurtlns, 902-3 IIlu" Crab D k"" wllh fresh Salsa. 489-90 111.,.. ""'Jbs, 468 IIlue mussel~, 466
-
l\o;lt. wild. 434. 435 I\oru.« ". Paul. 7
1I1ng ~hcrrics, 733 Hins. rolling, 90
fr~noolS,
'<-",
''''''''d,e"'in!!. '-~"'''.., low-fal. 707
'-\'\~~",,"~
Bbc,
b",.,
IlIontl roul<. 192 JlIooU ()f;J.nge~. 723
of frcsh , wilh creme f".jell<", 152-53
loI~\ter,
Rlac kc ned Swordfis h wllh Kisollo D ke, 507-8 Ulaek-<:\·t:<J peas, drit:<J, 590 lJl:Ick olivl"'. 136 Block peppcn"Orns. 127 Bl.ck ."" 458 hmik'tl , with Iw,t. buuer.oo ""uto'nl leeks. 484-SS Sle"ITh.'<.I, wilh san,hopcpper, ~Il lIlaei<:;lrJp mol. sses. 870 nl;..,k 143 llbc k,ip .hark. 462 Blick Irumpt.1 mushroom. S86
o f coIT~-e. 141 of compos<'
Boiled Lob<'"r. 497 Hoillng. 1i5-~6
p;.lSIa,658 poI~,oes,
640-41 '·<1Ieublcs.608- 11 Iloihng point, 176 llok 1.'110)', 575 Bolognese Sauce. 223 Bombe.11)';5 lloneb (fomll'<.l) ham, 809
,-
hlanching of, 184 c:or:m",li,ing of. 185 for Slock , 180-81
1139
INDEX Ilrick doullh. duck conIil roIl....d in,
LIonon)! knif<', 81 Uonn.. fon. l'>iroIa!;. 911 lIordd.. ;s.- .>:IOC<'. 203 IkIsc
4~2-~3
iX"""'. "731
1\0;.101'1
hun. 360-62
&:>sK», CDQIri' 1JI School~ 7be
(hml<'f).6S lIosIon kI,OC<'. 611) Uouk-d "':11.".. 4 1 lklIulism. !5
Ilnlb,-:..:.'-~nn. IInn,~
IIouchfe,. 959-60 8ol,clJ<'r(hulChc,). II, 2M llouilLon. roun. ISO. 189-90 Boubnger. Mon,Il-UI. 1-S BOlIIt"IJIt"""(hrc:.d h.'k<.'l"l. 11 I\OUb"jI;t:-re po,a,o.:s. 64(l Bound .>:Ila
-120 "in.i):"-1' .... """",, La mb ""I:!d wl1h.714 Rourbon 8~k"d lIam, ) 70 Bourbon $.auce. 1066 Uou",;n.l56 Il<m knot roIl~. 915 lJr.orek1. bOll>. 339 8nised AllI elo~ In Sour
C.."am, 443--44 Oni~
Ce1c:r)' w llh H""II.
6 1}-14 Onised Chicke n " ' llh App l.. CkIcr a nd Cas he ..' HUlin". 420_2 1 Onised R2bbll ..' llh c.."",dll
441149
Pasta,
O.... ised Red Qlbbag., ... lt h App les and WIne, 629 8nistd Rhubarb. 7S5- S6 O..,.istd Ro m:d"" LtIlUC.,. 629-30 O..,.L"<:d S hurl RIb. o f lk..., f. }O7 - 11
8..,.ised W h ile IIr~bing. ,....,.~,.
Ikan~,
5 10
177 284-117
poul,ry. -108-10 ,·c)o:t.1"bk·s.612-14 IkJ".642 11r.>ndics.88O l1r"J" muffins. basic. 900
1l"",,·Il.>. 7'99-AOO I1r"J7.ie •. tI6 Hr.l>.,li.n fO:I>l <"Off"", 140 Br...,d(sl. Soo ,,/so Quic:k bro.-ads: y .. asl h ...:ad> clll:lp6i. fl)·. 84 ~_48 [ri>h.oo:..901 1t;mon
I..... 9Oj-1
f}"'. Ii¥ht. Q20
for sandwiches, "'62. 925 zuocluni.901 Ilread baker (oIJtlk"IJII.'I'), II B...,aded Vcal Culkts, 282 II'l':I<MR- for det;p-fl"}'ing. S6t-66 Ilo=d pudding. 10·11. 1046 Bl"(:;ld I'uddI"K ...lIh Bourbon Sauce, 1066 O...,:uI S:dad, 7 17 llreadst,cks.92*-29 11",,,-,,
l:I",b.337 poul,ry bonclc"•. 3H8 sup"'''''' or a"line. j8ll-90
,· ..al.314-16
llrie. 1~ Ilrijtll
436
8011
lIuff<1 pres<.""'allon. 109S-11I2 <"Old foods. III I de>ignin/t 1100-1 109 an-~nging foods on buff<., I~hle. 1102-6 an::anginJl, foods on ........·'nlt ~~.1101-2
M,no..,l"ncheons, 1103 doublc.."tded buff<1 hll<"". 1101. n,"
W"""'m hoi food... 11 11 iet: ."",injtS. 1110
Il'L,kt"l. 294-96
pl~nninl!.
lI.o...',:oIi. 5~5 c ",om of. :IOUI'. 239-40 IlI"OttOIl Ah nQn d]ne. 612 !lro'.:h""e~. 840_41 r:,b!.>;' 300 sl"i'ak .. sk .. wt.'flI. 840-41 Ilrullcd "lack.5<:3 ":t.~s wh h lI ..rb ""II"" and Sa",eed It...:.k..~ , 484-115 UroUcd Gn po::fru il. 744 llrol k tl L:.. n b Kidney". 346 llrollcd Tomato, 6 18- 19 lIroil .. rs. 92 lIroihng.173 fuI •. 183-85 fnHIS.70-14 ""'~I. 271-73
poohl)", .392-94 ,hell/hh,483-85 '''g..."I:!bks. 603-4 lIroIh(sl.215
bed.2}1 c.ppdku, on. 6"'4-75 chkk .. n. rich. 252 !>e.ny ""l/l'Iabie Ix",f :IOUp.
"'-J6
""j(C. 190 pasu and. 659 liroth·b:i....u 6OUps. U2. Z)3-36 Bro ... " lk...,fSIt."W. 289 lImwn;"s. 1007. ,1ft! ,,/so c..kt.{s) 'ppl"""U<.."C. 103S-j(i t.u",;n<·"'al. 10)5 wilh Inw...-dicm SUbSli,utes. 50 ,rnu;r;on,1 f"dl!<'. 50 lIrown rin,. M3. 644 llrow n RIce: PII~ f ... I{h l'in" Nu ts. 669 - 70 Brown ruux. 192 Urown sauce (esp.>j(noId. 201-4. 217 llrown s,......,.. 2Ir Orow n s luck . 1130. 185-86, 185-tr ll"""n sup'. 869. 1020
n.....n d·I",..,,.. (,s3 lmonoi......, II). 114 1I..... ".... Ls >PfOU1S. 5-:"5 Orus"",ls Sp routs in I'Irc:In 111.111" ... 609 HUch" de NoC' I, 1032 Huckl.. (baned. 744 8ock ...
·,.,UlI
formal " ..edd"'lt. 1108-9 ~"'XIC:," fic>.I~. 11()4
Orloch", 9JJ-3'! 'oaSl...u. sou,{-ed fOl .. gt'.lS on wild mu.hroom duxelld willi. 127-28 '"egttal>le ,emile in. 814-15
Iluck"I","~,.
U(fl.
of n ..... ts, j()O lluu<"mI,lk, lSI and 1>Ce\ ....... p. chil\t.<qUash. S&I ""ked. 60S IIUlle r"U! SqU:lS h Risotto, S23 OUII""""'teh Sauce, 1078
646
h.,., Bill'll. 84647
Huc:kwh,,~, C~pc!l
wllb Sausagr a n d Appk Stuffi n g. 5~-55
l\uekwh"a! noodles. 6S4 Ullffal<.>. Amenc-~". ,1ft! Ik
oom..cuc.
c..bb.jI<"( .• l. 5-4-"" hok <:ho)'. S7S tll"OC«>ii. 5 · ~ ])"",*1, sprouts. 575 ..1lI[,!low.,... ~7~-76
[107
109S-99
porIion,n)! tood... I I 10_11 repl<"ni>h'Jl)l fO<Xls. 1112 ser... ;ng. 1112 Iluff", .",,,,iet:. 12
<'",a",)'
ble.576
hor.; d'""",·,,;,, 844_ 45 Ilulb o"ions. ~7 Bulgu,.645 sabd (tahouli .o;lIJd). 671 HuIIlU' Pilaf. 650 - 5 1 llun6.916 nuns jumho cinnamon. 935 Jl<'CIn >llCky. 9j6 Husir"l<:SS luncheons. presen':";o" for. 1103 IIlnch...-(bollc~. 1I. 265 Hulch...- knife. 81 Hu'''''' .......'ire hors d·""",'fl'. }k.mer(.oJ), 152,8""4 b:L,;il. 211 gnlkd Mluah "'"h, 393-94 beurre hbnc. 191.lQ9..10. !I ch,pode. 5j() anus. 224 lohslt.'f. 225
s.w
prcpa"nl!. 209 !>eu"" ,nan;'<. 195 heu ....... IlOir. 209-10 heurn- noi><'1'e. 209-10. 609 1:tI:U,..,.., 1"OI.l1!<'. 191. 209-10, !17 cashev.·. br~;",:d chicke" wi,h aprl~ cidt', and. 420-11 dariflt.-d. IS2-53
cocru. m. S79
rompound. 211-12. 217 c",)·lish.211 Oa'·o ......d. 191 jtlI,1ic. <'roiled I>lack "",' ba"" wilh sau,ffij !rt·ks .nd. 484-85 herb. gnlk<.ll,mb chops with.
273 1oI",,~.,..
kohlr4hi. S77 n.pJ. S77
raI.
~·6
br.i>cd. wi,h ,prk..; and winc.
62,
'00,1 jt<.IO><: ,nth app\'" 3nd,
424-25
uro I,.,.,. 8""7
C:oc1u. pea"'. - 25_26 ea..sa .. O..... s il'l8. 704 - 5 c..f...u bit. IH c..fc hrul"t IH CoL"le I,m.., 112 CafR-1IXIl"ha.. 14! c..k,,(s). ,,"U. 994-1010. ,Ift!,u.o II""",''';'''': Frosung(s) ~ngel food. <)9""-98. 1 00j-~ chorubl .., 1()()4 1020-21 bakinR. 1006-9 bUchc tit> N<.>cl. 1032 but!~.,. (cfC"Aming melhod c:>ko::s). 997.99ll-10Cl0 ~;.so:mI>lon/t
comll. "i,h
609
ltalian.101!-13
simpl .. (A.I"H:.'ric".n·>lyl .. l. 1011_12 whi,e choculon ... V"~mlb
I.y...... kc with.
1026-27 Huuerlbkc rolls. 915 lluncrfly.,I;c.,. 110. jOO
cn:~m
chce,...
rrosl,n,l!. 1028 chiffon. 998. lQOS-6 ' ..... ng... 1005-6 choooil!e noutieSoS. 1033 chocol .... ,ruflk. 1034-3$ coconu,. fresh. 1029-jO c"OOUnll. [009-10
dt.·co,m,ng. 1021-25 'Ake or b:>k<·,·s <"(Jonh for. 1022 pip,n)! tc<.ilniqlles for. 1022-25 1021 .>lends. 1021 ~Idc nl~skin):.
de"irs food. 1031 gcnotS<:.997. 1001-2 dusk. 1001-2
h,)(h·r.uio.
211
maitre d·lIiitd. 21 1 ;>.Lon,pdi.... ! II p«lI.n, bru,;....,J.. Sproul. in, ted p"pp<1". 2 12 sailed. 152 ~ 5:lndwich~, -:'63 ~11oI, 212 whipped, 152 Hun .... cokes. 997. 998-1000 HuIl(""I'UC~m. 1011_14 frt:noC:h.IOI3-11
r~spb,,1T)'
coIo:>l",,'. 716
w....n. 5~6
m. 1000
rclJoy,. 10Cl0 inJ,tn:dienlS. 996-97 lId)"finger.o. 103!-33 marble sheet. wi,h fool/" f,,,,,ung. 1026--29 mu.ing methods. 99~-1000 cn:~1I1t'd
fl,. 0/, 998-1000
egjt:S. 99~, 1001- 6 nu,,,,ional , ..dues of. 1010 p:Kkago.-d tnbIes. 1006 p'''nln,l!. 1006-poundc.ke. d:lS.>lC. 999 risooo, 507-8 <:ICh...- '011". 1030-j[ .pnnj«:'C'~k"", 997. l002-j da",,;". 1002-3 "orillJl.. 102$ trou])bho01inll chan for. 1009
"hipped
1140
fNDfX C:lrt'(lW:ly, 125, 129
~
Cbt'fi ,Ie pill1ie (station chefs). 11
whit" ChocOl:ol"
Carrym'Cr cooking. 274-75 C:ln,la&". ]81
Cbeft tk "''''8 (fronl ","JII""'). ]2 Chefs fon.:. 79
t)OJn'·!l:'re~m,
C:l",;ng. 265
roaSled It'd IX·pper. 819 s;olman.819-2O pori< products. 808-9 S;llt-ruring. 8)7
Chemic:ol conumin:mlS, 20. T-28 CherT)"
C:.lkd~).(ww)
,".njU~ .... pI)<"rTY la)'e •. with
1026-r1
a.t... (.w'J ijlht) '1'.:lIuI;,o . 19 0.1>."':;11; (squid), 467 "",I;od. spicy. 5 ~S-26 Calcium, 38 OSI..-oporoo.is ~nd. 52
e:.k-ndulas. 685 caton .. (kJI). J9 C:.tl\,wos, :'i3U,(-ed n:'al ,;elllot»' with. 328 C:lh'd'!i,..".. 317. 323
cleaning. 323 s:luttXd, with onions. j 29 C:",...I",<' "'''''''. 193 C;tnldlia sjn",,-,"~. 143 eamcmhe" eh""",,". 1506 C,,,,,dia ll bacoo . SOIl C,,,,di:,,l !lla,'k [)iamn"d <'I,,,dd,1,
'"
Canapn.830-.H 1>:"',IU<11(,'. 1.,nlets and prol",,'rok.,., !l33-~. 961 b",."1131)-31
currk-d chich·n. 846 flY b...,.Jd, 847-48 gamish",., 831, 832 pn-p;Iring,832-33 s>ut«d duck liver, "nh c:>mh"d mub'lrb. 1\.j9 sprt."".Kl,83 1 C:mrer. 52
th~<"'I'5,
83
Cloonall Alia Sicilian;>, 972- 73 a.nob oil, 135 Can opc:1"O<1'. ubk·mounl ..-d, 79 C:lnt:>loupes. T18 Capel lini, 652
Capns.
12~
turkey scallopin.- with I.. moo and. 426-:?7 Caphn. ~·riedo . 735 Caphn, 10.:""'", 735 Capon. J79 <~"'inll.
399
Ca PI>e lle lll ln 8rodo. 674 - 75 Caprenin . 411 C:lpsiclllll pepper>. 125 C:l.puins (chd (l'<:1~1l"). ]2 C:lpucdll
clhone>,I"5 d nun.;>oix. 1115-86 Car.lIllelizing ""'gar, 872 Car~",eI Salt«, 1056- '" Carboh)'tlr~I"". 39-4(1 Carbon .>1«1 COf\.,u'Ucllo n. 8'1 Cardi",,1 ""uce, I?')
Co.rdornorn, ] 25 Co. ";'"", Ma...... Amoin (Amon,n). 6, 193, 10-19 Can>llna 8a~ lUI.>!<, 368 Carp:u:do, 3 10
Carriers, msul~too, 94 Carroc Cake wit h C...,,,m Ch ~ }·cost lng. 1028 CarrotS, 592-93 m::.ple-gl~7.,-d, 623 >lC~",,--d mussel> wilh Irtb ~ntI,
,>6
420-21
e:.,.t.e..'S. 133. 134 C:I~,ngs. S;lus:l&". 806
C:lss.,role. potatoes bakoo en, 638 CaSlli~. 125 Ca.sI!oulel, 373 - 74 OoM-i"," cookW'~re. 84 skillt:l (Griswold). 86 sug .., 869
"",1<".
"'tfuh.
deep·fried filielS. with
larr~r
' ' 'ICC. 565
whole .i7.>.linl>. wilh ginger "nd
pon1.u sa....:e. 571 Cath"rir.e de Medici. 1053 Ollllillower. 575-76 Cav>lelli ~~. br..ised rnbbit wilh. 448-49 Cavi:lr. 834-35 "'yen"" peppers. 125 Ccletiac pure.e, pooltO anti. j4}-44 Celeriac """uc<:. ro:.t.SI. rnck of I,unb with mint ~nd. 343-44 br:lised. with ]);Isil. 613-14 Celery root. 593 o'llu ......... S94 Cnlt""''''-"'lt fish. 473
Cephalopods. 456. 467 c...r~mic coole".,. ..... 85 Cerllfic:ouon cl milk. 149 Ceylon lea. 144 Chafing dist...;. 9'i Chabl.:>e corm. 536 C h a llah , 932 -:B C h a m pagn e Sab ayon . 1044 Chan",,1 catfish. 458 Chantilly cream (.:";me Chantilly).
988-89. 1048 Cha 'llilly S.Ue"', SeeMOIl~<eI;ne Chapel. Alam. 7
Charcu!'.,-ie. 204, 786-826. Seea/so P:l!~
brinlng. 808 choppo:d Chicken li"er. 821 chooro. 807. 823 ~nd wte mnuki. 842 southwestern scr.ombled eggs with gre..:n d,il ... 'Ind. 550 duck pr<;J<;CiU1l0 ,,·itb fresh
nungo.825-26 788-807 1»5ic. 791. 793-95 ]);I,;ic IP'"". 816 oounu'}'-5I)ie.791-93 <.'QUipmenl for ......".aring. 790
foKclJle'~l.S.
in Jflbntines. 197-96. 804- 5 ingredi=t< 01. 788-90 mousseline. 791. 79S-96 in pitl:. 197-96. 8'11 -3
797 s:.U""ge5. 1l)5-7 in ICrOnes. 197...ao1 gal.nline. 197-96. 804- 5 quend~
smoked duck and f:$t"r. 820-21 )!r.lvtax.
461, 807. 824
ch;..ud·froKl. 809-11 s:lus:ll!e. SeeS:luS;lse(S) smoked $:limon wnh ..... It'd IUn:l.814- 15 $;lUC<:
smokon8. 808 temoe
ll,.."., 8]7-]8 ... Iman anti sea NSS. "'ilh splluch and 1);I~il. 816-17 "'gt"1:1b/e,8]8 "egei:lb/e, on brioche. 814-15 Chan!. S"';ss. 585 with lemon .nd pine nUl~.
aw:f. knif.... 8'1
$OIut(...d lamb loin wilh srufftd r6§1i pot.toes and. 35! CherT)' PIe. 9S3-S4 Ch~OO<.'S.
dres..ing. ro:lSI lurk." " 'ilh, .nd gibk"l gr.lV)'. 397-96 H.-.lIin. ,picy sw,--eI pot~to . nd.
664
Charles II, King of F.ngland. 1 4~ Ch~rlOlie. 1049 Chas>eur .... uce (H~nI<'r's uuce).
""
C h !l.leaubrl3nd. 300. 303 Chftleaubriand sauce. 203 Ch:lte~u poIaloes. 640 Chaud·froid. 8l9-l l ,,,,,)·on,,,,i,,,, .8 10 Chayotes. 583 Chetk];,r, ]SS-59
bkh;omel sauce. 196 pot"'O cheddlrd>«.... bread. 926 :!OIJml-. gnlS and. 668 C heddar and lttk Soup, 255 Cheneh). 154-62 Ammcan.161 Cream. See Cream cheese firm. 1 ~-60 ("",h or unripened, ]5S-56 go;It's-milk, 160-61 hard. 160 imitation. ]6] Ieflover. ]57 nucaroni and. 675 natu.-.I. 154-61 nUlrilion:ll ,"Jlue~ 01, ]54 processed , 16 1 ri!Sotto wilh Foor ( a/ Q'IIIIIfl)
Fom"'RIlfl. 650 sandwich. SOlIlhwest,-.,-n grHled, wilh chiflOllc putt", and ''''OC''d do.
465
Cheovil. 1Z1. 129 c:he$InuI(s). 133. 134
6'8-"
4~
Cekry.595
candled Almond!; . 988 - 89 Candkd s..~ PoUllon . 663- 601 C:inUy
m
Icgclbmb. d 1'0:1..>100 poultry, 399-400 01 ro:tSI5. 'lTl-78 o....:..l:>a mo:lons. 728 C:lst.e..' buner. br..iscd chicken will. apple cider and,
m
as s;md",..;h filion)!, 764 semi-sofl.157-58 :;eNing. 162
soCt. 156 termi nology d, ]62
wine and. 163 CheQ;e Dli nn.". , 555 ~k ...(:.). ]04~. 1045-~
bbckbeny cluffon. 1064-66 Ne'" YoO;-",yle. 1064 pi$l.chio e~rus. 1063-64
CMescdoIh.88 ClHftk solle(he~d w"iter). 12 ClHf"·"'''8''(oplairu). ]2
ClHf tk!'ln (w,"", sc"".,.ni). IZ Owf "" c"tsll~. II
Cher~. l3-16 dedic'~h{)n
01. 15 12-13 judgmem 01, 15 knowledge of. lj_14
exCCUII"<'.
nutrilion and. 'j4_~ pride 01. 16 skill of. 14 tast~ of. 14- ]5 types of. 11. 12-1j
Chevre. 161 Ch ev", Ta rt..~. 855 Chevn;"Uil sa....:e. 203 Ch c ,,",}, Dale Bars. 989 Chlappcul '5 Lamb Shank with lentils a nd CoU1Ul'l' \'cg'-'1ables. 3Sj Chick"n, 379-&1, See ,,/so PoultrY I)()I'H:!S. for >lock. 181 boning !... g. 390 br~os..-d. with apple cider arod cashew buller. 420-21 poo.ched. with wnp .sauce. ~-7 on;o¢S. cumed. 846 carving. 400 cb"""" 01. 379 coq au vin. 414 rree-.-~nge. 3'"8 Konun-Slyle.4 19
""'as!..
11,,,,,,,
chopped. 801. 821 ... utkd.4 n pan·frial. wilh ]XIn gr.,'},.
404-'
salad A.un, 714-]5 c hutn,-'Y. 699
""ut(:o.,d, wilh Kenlud:y bourbon.
""
wr.p, lIOU 'hw .... t~m gril led. 781-82 Yakitori . 416 C h icken a n d Sausage Gumbo, 257-58 C h icken "nd S now ~as in Black fkan Sauce, ~ 1 7 C h icke n Caccla lo"" 4 1S C h icken CUrT)'. 4 17-18 C h icken Fricassee. 409-10 Chlc""n Pesto and Fe", Chccsc Sandwich. 771 Chicken SaUl.!' " 'Ith OnIons. Gn Sauce. 4 18-1' C h icken ,,·lt h 40 ao\-eo of Garlic. 415-1 6 C h lck"n Yakitori, 416 C hickpeas " 'ilb O ll\'e Oil and LenK>n. 6 10_11 Chicory. 684 Chiffon. 955, 1048. ]OSO-51 fillin)!. 949. 955 1i"",,,1050-5]
Chiffon."". 109
l
1141
INDEX Chiffon ""kes. 996. 1005~6 CJr.lngo:. 1005-6 CIllffoo !*. chocotale. 1068~69 Chik'(s). 125 " I ,,-~te"med mu",d, w ilh laSS<). k~k' ~nd. 517 oori:u>c:Jcr. mix. m-Io W""'l, soulhwdt..-m :;cramblcd eggs "';th chonzo and.
5>0 tomato. holl,nda i"". 5S4 types of, 580 )...~Iow hoi. "nlk-dlobs1",," With. ~nd chlpolk P":st:I and chipode '''-''\lire blanc. 529~30
Chill. black he:" •. veni.o;on and. 446 Chili Con Carn., . 288. 309~ I O Chilled, defined, .73 Chutc:d \k(:1 a nd DoU.,rmllk Sou p,lSS..,9 Chlllc:d e h .,...,. Soup . 24 6 ChlU~-d Chine"" Noodle Salad .
6" Ch llk-d Poad...-d Salmon Ro ulatk w hh Thai Noodl., Salad a nd So)' Mob~..,~ VlnalS"eu",
504 - 5 Ch Ukd ROaslc:d ftc:d Peppc:r Cou lb.260 Ch lUed Shdltbh Plaue r, 5 14 ChllJl'Kubbed Ve nison " ' ll h caram c illcd Ikrry Sauce:. 444~4 S Chi"" ""p, In Chme"" anise (,ur anise). 124 Ch in es<: Barbecued Spa...,riM. 369 Chine", chi"',~ (".Idie chi",,,,). 121 Ch".ese five·splce poweS
m
''''''
Ch ocolale Ch iffo n Plc, 1068-69 Ch ocolale (:rc,am 1' lIllnt!. 978-79 Ch ocolate Deike. 987-89 Chocolate Eclai ..., 986-87 Ch ocola'e Flour lel<s Cak ... lOB C h oco L~ I" f udge Sauce. 1078 Ch ocol :nc Gan ...: h c. 10 18 Ch ocolate 1t17.c:lnu, Ma rquis w lth Fran ll"'lIco Saucc. 107S-76 C h ocoble Ice C rea m , 1076-77 Cl!ocobte hq,.or (chocolate ""'ss).
B77
u>linJ,C.878 trufl1cs. 1019 da rk. 1019 11711
while. 879 buuen:re~m. "~nilla
1.:1)...... C"~ke
.-.<Spbcny with. 1016_21
CI:tWc cuisine. 5-6. 7 C1..:a.su n dcak." 999 e la,is\c R t"", l' ll."r. 669 Classic Spon g""ak ... 1002-3 Ocan, tkfined. 30 Ocanlino:'s.<. PCI'llOl\:l.I. 29-30 CLc"rm".,u (cl:orifie:llion). 236 ClC'~r
soYI>S.
Cle~ver.
s.... ,,,,(/,,,,501lP(5)
81
Clinl!Slonc~.
733 roll•. 914 CJo"es. 126. 129 Club roll. 916 Club Sandwich . 7113 Co.gulation. [71 Clo""ri,,"~f
74~
ehocobw Macada mia Nut !'rali..... TOrle . 977-79 ehocol.:lt.. Pol A u CKmc. 1062 Chocola t., 5oumb. 1047 w:mn. [067-68 e h<>col:
bbckherry. 9~5-~6 Cobb Salad. 7 11 - 13 Cocci. 21 Cockles. 466 Cochwchc •. Inanag"mcnt of. 32 Coro;:o bI..mer. 877. 679 Coro;:o pow<J..r. 679 Coconut coke. fresh. 1029-30 Coconuts. 133 Cod,458-59
'" ,,-,>."
Coffee. 139-43
O>oppl"ll ",h knife. [11_12 Chorizo. 801. 823 and d:ue rumaki. 842 MlluhweMem scl"'Jlllbk-d eggs wilh green chile a nd. 55(1 Choron sa~. 1fY} Choucrou t... 373 COOWOC"l'$. 2}2. 243-44, 465 dam. Ne" England Slyle. 244 r<Xlsted can. 257 Chrbimas (Slnta C!lIus) mdons.
'"
Chock. prirrul, 294 Chul'TOli.961 Chlllne),.214
manKO. 7~7-58 star fm;t, !28 IxIked r.:d s.rupper "'ilh. 486 Chut ne')' C hick.. n Salad. 699 Cider. 7.3 Ci
""""Y.
'"
<)'fup. 1057 dlrl<. 105-
unsw~>elened.
fl"'~ngchro B~""rian. 1068 "'ine ~nd. :41 Ch ocola te M gt'l f ood Ca ke.
Clam 011'.836 a:.m kni'""'" 81 Cl.:lms.465 opc"ln~. 480-81 Cbms Coslno. 5 15- 16 a:.m .
CobbIc,(s).
m.
Coffee "'hil~'I1er5.
ISO
brewing. 141 dec;l.ffc;oul<'<.·S of. 142 roastinj\. 140 .sening. 142 tasting. 141-42 Coffe..cake. IIOIJr cream, 9(I.j Coff"" creJm. 150 Cognac. J'O
sn
Combination cooking nlrlhod!. 1~2.
\76_n
Commis(opprenuc",,). 11. 13 Co",,,,u de m.w (lxId Conullon bacon. 808 Complex carbohydrntcs. 39 Composllion. 1087 Co.npolc
"""'
!>=y. ~56 fruit dri<:<.!.748 sundrk>d. wilh ho,,",y icc cream. 1072 Compound butt" .... 21 [-12. 217 Compound (SIlI:III) SOllCeS. 191. 196 Comprche",i"" M.... I Inspection ,0.(1 09(6). 267 Co"'rr,,_d }'e""'. 909 Conc:Is.sfe. to""'10. 235, 582 Concentrate. frull (fNit p:.stc). ~48 Concenlrated milk. 149-50 Conch. 465 Conchiglie, 653 Cond'i"~, 878 Condiment:;. 120. 138--19 CondUCIion. 166-69. I~O Confectioner'.< sugar. 869
=
CO"ji5<'lIl'. 11
Conl1ib).801 cherry. -53-S4 sau,<=! lamb Iotn "'ill! Sluffed rfuli (>OI'I(ICS and. 35 1 duck. 422-23 roIl~ in brio:k dough. 423 Connect,,·c tissue. 181. 264-65 (on,;oon"llO. 232. 236-38 bo•..,f. 237 classic. l4S dOllble,236 l""rftJIned sluimp. 153 Consutnet{s) food .sen·icc opc.-~tions ~nd. 10 nUlrilio.", n>ncerns of. S4. 55 Com.liners. 85. 90 ContaUllnation.21-32 cn"'>S
chcmiCllI contaminants. 20. 27-28 ddined.20 plly,.ical contamin:mts. 28 Co nlln c mal Brow n ies, 1035 Co'Wc:t.1ion. 169. 170 Conn'CIion <wen. 91 Co.wC<'tion 5.1I05
Cooked .)·ruP;>. Ir I Cookcry. defined. 4 Cookic~. 965-66 Wr.967 or roIl<:<'!. 967 drop, 966 g"'W--'llJre-~d. 991 io.:cbox.966-67
l'U' ' ' '
maddein"".990 mix in!! methods. 966 oolme.1. spiced. 992
peon. bey. 993 pressed, 967 spritz. 991-92 w>ring.968 ~ult"r,
990-91
Icxtu"",.967-68 Toll Hou.<e-. onglll>l. 969 lulil"-'.993 "c~fer.
96;
Cooking, tkfint·d. 4 Cook",J,C bananas (rlamain:;). 734 Cooking principles, 166-"'7 hc~1 dfecb. 170-72 he~t tr~n>f.".. 166-70
ffi<.1hods.ln-n combination. 172, 1;6-77 dry-heal. 172, 173-75 !l1oOi.!>l·h.;~I.
In.
!7~-76
Cook""d",.84-87 Coq a ll Vln , 414 Ox, d'fllde. 382 Corbndcr. 126 Co rlam1cr ChUe MI>(, 509- 10 Corian der..crustoo " e llo wfin Tuna " ' llh a .... bnl "oI' h;t., Ik~ n s a nd MOMtOO Pcppcts. 509-10 Corn. ~, 642-43 blue, and shrimp l
,"'-"
1142
INDHX
Com. (ww) cn-~mcd, "'nll 1"'~ll, 624 "'lIInK kcm<.>j, off c~rs 01, ~ immduction 10 F.uropc, ~1 ~lIoked. Itrillt..J bmh cOOp; ,,';tll wild mu,hroom pokma and PUOlpkln.-.e<:
}i9-W
Combreld, 1! ~"'"
Crt-am cht.-e.t-. 155 ~, D~msh pa'"), filling. 938 fJ'O<>ling. 1028 carmi Clke "'ilh. 1028 C ....Jm lr)' filhng. 938 f"",h pe:lch Urt ,,·ilh. 984-8$ l!;a,... nan. 1048-50 ("",h (lUiI.. 1049-50 ",hlle chocol .. I<," fr.Hlgt"lico.
,""
h....... J79
roast. "nil ""lId nc., s1Uffi~. 413 Cornmeal. 643 Com mllffi,lS. l>a,ie, 902 Corn pl"kJm)ol .•mol<<'t(s)
c-.lrula'ion of. 69-70 <'Onlrolhojj.70-71 pcr portion, 69 Iffipc, 69-70 noit, 69 Con"gt Frklo. S~lr l n ll
Potatoes, !'«-n e ll I'ric!l, Steak Fries. 666
Colton ,ofu. W2 Couli>, 191, 212-Ij, 211. 10';6 rnl P<"PP<"r, 213 chilled ~ed. 160 CI'~h """at fbn with Ch;l·'"
and. ';Z7 '~able. 212. 213 Cou~. ddincd. 64
Cou n try 1I1scu llS. 891
COo.mtry ham. 807. SO? eollnlry-S' y lc: Fon:cmc ll.l. 791-93, 792
d';lfoo.955. 1048. 105O-S1 lime. 105O-S1 chocoIale pot ~u cri'fTle. 1062 ~'Offlpooem.< of. 1051 "~,,, e J."ulbe. 1000-GI cn'n", Chantilly. 988-89. 1048 cn'me chiOOuSI. 1061 Tnou...",. 1048. 1051-52 eh<;.,:oIJ le. classic. 1052
""" "h, 1060 r.,pbo."rry. 1069 971-72. 104(1. 1041, 1042-4j pie. basic. 950 puffs. 961 Creamed Corn ... il h ilasil, 614 Q.,amed fal mixing mo.11lod. 997. 998-1000 Q.,am ~lIin~,). 949-50 chocolale.978-':"9 d,plorn..n. 1027 Creaming nlt.1hod of mixing. 881. p~.'1T)'.
893-95 C...,., m of Brocroli Sou p , 239 -40 ere~m s:auces. 197.6S9 hcdJO:d, ~I
Cream 110\11». 232. 233. 238-40 Creamy Coleslaw. 7 16 C r t a n, )' Pok n13 Wit h Wild
Mus hroo ms. 667-68
C:Ollll lry-Sry]" To mato a nd
Coun1ry
Cucumt,.,r Salad, 7 10 Chi:1PJX'Iu's lamh .. hank wilh Io:ntlls
,·cl!"lahJ~."
and, .is} 1()55 CoU" 8oull lon , 180. HI9-90 Couse''''',,645 Couscou sSal"d .7 16_ 17 Coup",
Cr~b(s).
46/1
sofl.hell. po' hoy ""ndwkll. 526_27 Crab Ca kes. 553 blue. "'ilh fresh ,,:d.o;:j. 4119-90 Th ... 52i1-29 C... OC>Ikcs & ncdlcl. 5S3- 54 Cr:Ih Meal f bn ... h h Red I""P P'l'r Coulb a n d Ch h..,.. Cr.!ckrtl
'"
",he~l.
645
Cr.!cki~. 642 Cr.!nberry(ic."s). -21 <>r.I~ ...
46"-6H buller. 211 Cr.ayfi.. h F.lo u llh. 531 en;,~m.
150-51
II"rlk. mushroom lartS wilh. 219 pumpkins.....'<.I. lIn1k'<.ll;lmh chop> wilh ,mokrtl corn ,,,,d ",ild Illu,hro()m poJcm~ and. j49-50 sour. hrJc",d "mclopc in. 443-44
C~mt
Creo,,",
8nl16:. 10·H. 1060-6 1
C'"~r-~md. 104~-45
~m t
Ch antilly ("hamiUy Cream). 988- 89 . 1048 Crem e Chibous i. IQ.l1. 106 1 Creme f"~;che. lSI )( .... ,;0 of fresh berries with, 752-53 herll<:<.I. fried O}'Mers Wilh, SIS ere",h"", melons. 7lS Cn ..,le IIc mou la <.le Sa uc<: . '26_27 Crrok ,,:alICe. 205 Cri'pes.548-49 h"ckwhe-JI. wilh sausage ~nd appk "uffing. 5~-55 'Wee!.
549
Cnsp (..uudds). 74( Crol»an l>i.92 1- 23
Croquembouche.961 Croquette., 566 <;olmon.566 ~~-conumirullion. 20. 28--32 croulons.918 garlic. [or sal;lds. 708 CrudiIC:l. 113~ Crullers. 961 Crumpit- (slr,,
Cru.1"""'J"", 4506. 467_69 Cru.~.
pie and I~n. 943-49 baking. 948-49 crumb. 949 H:.ky and mealy doughs. 943-44
pie
~I",pinj{,
c.ym-",,-. 268
Cube StJgar. 669 Cucumhers. ~j and tomalO saud. rounuy·>I)1e.
n,
Cueumlx:r-Yogu " Sa lad. 630 CltC"rbiltlC<"U'. ~3 Cui>.ine cia ....... 5-6. 7 ethniC. 10
gmmle. 5. 6, 7 nalional. 10 II(H"...,lk, ~-6 r.:gionJl. 10 0'1$1"" bot'''8t'(oi$ie. 5 Culs/,," c/(ruk/' .... 5-6,7 Culinary (la1)1,,) ,'j;]1(, 131 Cutl ;".,s. 2j3 Culli\'alion. dis3ppeamnct: o f tr.,d;t iollal n1~1h{). m<:aStJrin/!, 112 Curing sail. "'89 Curly endi,..,. 684 Curly parsk'). 123 Curr:an\.~. 721. 727 dried. 742 Cu rried Ch icke n Can apts. 1146
"my chick..... 41"_ It! 12:8 SOIUCC. Thai. 499-500 ,h,dlot oil. 216 Cu...,· P:iste, 'OO CUllUrd fillln/!. 95-'-5' CUSt:lnk. 1040-4bakrtl. I().W. 1044 -46 bn:ad pudd,nj(. 1044, 1046.
fX>\'m.
,,'"
,heesa-.k" •. Sre Cho,,·cse.:;tke(s) ernne <1l ...Jmd, 1044_45 "herl')' clafo"li, 1067 11'10, II1II1Hn ilk. Willi or.mge w~rer. 1062-6j soull1t;s. H}i6-47 doocolal". 1047 "'~'m d'ocol~ le.
1067-6/1
slirred,1041_44 paslry "n:3m. 971-72. I().jO. 1041. 1042-43 .o;:jl>lly<>O. 1040, 1043-4'1 ,.. nilla CUSl:lrd sauce. 104(1-41. 1042 Cutll:t. defined. 2i'9 OJHJ"'I cookies. 967 LullinA. \!Ill. 1(.-:1')-1:16
OJuld>Ol'le (pen). 46" C)'CIe menu. 60-61 Cyciospo"". :!6
D:ocquolsc. classic. \l8!I ~~;kOflS (Asian r-.ldisll<'». S93-94 In;1')' prodUl1S. 146-6j "hee,es, See Chee<.e(s) imll;uioI'I ~nd ~nlflcia l. 150 milk. 148-53 bUller s.~. llulI('r(s) CO!l<;elllr~I<'<.I.
149-50
ereJm. 150-51
culiured da;ry produru. lSI-52 pnJCeS.o;;n/! t.,.;hniq"",,- liIl-fi nUlriliorul 'nluo of, 15j-)j D.m"on plums. 7;}1 D:ond..hon. foo- ...d:t
chc"l' bar.<. 989 multlgr.lin I".....~<.I. 928 1) ~ , c ~ .. .J
C homo Rurrutkl. 81J
n.,c;tff.. inale<J coffee. 141 l)eclme (negati...,) Wo",11 p1usr,
"
OeCO<1ion. 141 I)•.'comlm,r. 11 OcCOr.llOr·, icing (1'0)". 1 kin~l. 1011.1016-17 Detlicalion of professkm:il chef, 1~ 0 ....1"[" fryers. 93 o.:.: p·frie d Ca llis h FJ11t:1s ..-;!h Tanar Sauer. S6~ O".., p .Frled Cor nbn:M1 (litIS" ""ppies). 902 o.....,-..fried .<:Jnd",iI:he:!;. - 66 J)eep.frylng. 174-"5.558--1 eroquell.",. 566 dei~'111l1ning dooeno:ss. ;69 - "Il "':luipl11..111 for. 560-61 fa", for. 561-62 fliners. 568-69 ~ppIc,
569
1>lI..."".75-1 - 55
fnJIIs. 746 rrlT:Ihods of. 56Z-63 poIalCTeS. 640 prep:!riog food> for. ;63-69 ballering. ~7-68 breading. 561-66 seasoning. 563 .,«:I<:<:I,ng food. for. 'iii) ,·.. gt'I~hl ..... 607 Drt-r. 433. ~35. 437. s..: \'"oison Dcglninr:. 185 Dcgf~""ing, IS3 l)(,iOlli"...'<.I wa'e'. 41 o.
aoo
DelIK'rJPJ (Iurbin~do) j.U~lr,
868,
'"
I)(>ml ,/c 'tlf1g (lXId ""lk"1.
"
[kml..Glae<:, W2
Den"""""h='
""'et'. 41
Dessen(5). St'!!lIlsoCakc(')' a.:. ~. CooIo<-s: T,M .ssembhng. 1058 1.Iro>A...,.,.,. 1007
J>ic(.
~ppks:tuce. IOj5-j(j cof\1Jnenlal. 1035 ""lh ingredoenl sub:sulula 'ill Ir.tlilion:tl futlge. 'iO charlotle. 10·19 chocol~te. hoc and cokl, 10"6-ern"" bnJlCc. 1041. 1060-61 filling.•• 1058 froz~n. 1052-5~
ke er.:am aruJ 8"'>10. 1052, 1053-54
I143
INDfX :;<:mifrdcli, 1M2, 10'l5 , 11<."""'1< ~nd soriX.1', 10'l2,
""
klnJl<'harnp. IOW-60 Ik"""n 5:l1X..s. 1()';6-'j; l)I,lll~'f'ICOtch, 10711 "'~rJlnc1 .,"lun:. 1()';6-~7
chocnb l<, f",III<', IOn! dJOCclat~· syn,p, 1057 "-'f'Il!S.'>O, 10~~ ~~
and dar\. d>o
fru,t pori"",. 10'\06 Ik
,..,th
"'ru..",. !(;-u chemic:ll 00fI13m",:mIS, 20. 27-28 dcH~. 20 ph)·.i",.. 1com,,,,,;n:"'t". 28 [),scasc-d;"t links. Sl-53, S4 I);,h de~nliJ\<.";';. jO-'s1 D;'I...-n.83 1>o.h"-.ISh<-rs. nl«hanK'~1. jO-,s 1.
93-94 1)1.,till<,d >'int:pr. 137 Dhllll<-d ""I<'r. 41 Docking. 9 17. 9·1~ [)ol'ino. 158 l~f"'h.463
[)onle>l'cuion <Jl animals. l66 1),.Il<.... ic I}o\'<.... soIe.·1M Domin.onl llI"al. 7lj!I-89 Do,mlo (mahi-llIahi). 460 I),,,,hl~·ad ;n ll haklnll r<",·{b. 8lI9 Douhl".lu,h1 m<1hlld ,,( dc,'<:p" f,yinll. ~3 Doubk- OOfJ.'iOIlUt":·. 236 [)'lUllh(sI.881 Irick. duck confl1 roIk.-d in. 422-2,) {"ollk;.,.966 for !)~nL,h p.1>'rie'. 9j~-38 f<'n"<-...t;n}!.913 nuxi~ and knt:~d'll}I. 911-13 [>;1.,u. I""'ie. 65~
ponillninll.91.i puoching down. 913 (IUlCh". 9~4 roIkd-lII. 920-23 croi.>s:Inl.j.921-2j Doux do: MomJgnt:. 1~7 Oo\'<:r sot... 464 ., kinning , 476 D... wn Hsh, 472 l)n:_-d lish, 472 ( I)n:-..in}! pdic )"Ogun. 78,S fTl<."al.265 ,.. Ia<J. S.... Sab<.l "..,."nll')) Dn::;..ing (""'ad .'tuffinll)..396 Ch"","Ul, "",'I lurk"y "'i,h, and gibl"'!9"~"y . .s97-98 I)rio:"". S9C)-91 Orit:d fro !1 Compote. 748 Dried flUilS. -41
1K1<:d
""u""'lI">.
00'i Driel'<. fllf ",~k,,~. Drinking "'",cr. 41 l)rop cookit:..;. 966 Drop (plain) dumplin/CI. 6S4 K1 Drum Dru""" (S1ont: fI\1I15). 7's2-34 Dry aSin/(. 2611 [X)'-h"al ruokinll nl<.1hods. 171. 17.'\-75 Dry Ill<:asuring ~"p, 1:12 IX)' milk powd.:r. 150 Dry r~. 909 IhKhcso>e I'O(,u oao. 640. 64 1
m
''''w.
Duck. 380 I"""st, " .. rm ""lad w;lh kian spin's and hucinul vinailjft:l'C, 42 1-22
das><;:; <Jl. 380 con/h.4Z2-Zj roIkd in brick dou!.dt. 4Z2-23 li\'(', "'.tn.oro' "I,h C".,K1K--d rhuba,b. . 411-13
5:1""". lXbic. 412_13 slTIoked. and fo;., W"~. g:olanllll<.· on a I""Jr gak:tl". 812-13 !luck ~ l' Ora n ll'" 42.1 Ouck Cont\!, 422-'l :S J)uc k Con fit Knlk-d h' IJrick Dough . 423 l)",.-k <-'&&S. ~,36 ])"cklmg. 380 Duck Prosciutto ",lIh F~ h -'Ia n l!". 81S _ 26 Dumplings. 654 HIIL"I.654 pla,n (drop), 6~4 Dunll"f't-'SS cr.I,... 46H [>UlUm "'.....at. 645 1>U-'1,nlj pla[O!). 1090-91
Ouxe llcs.619 S:lut(....d fui }!"-• .' on wild m"'hruom. wilh loo"k-d
417_28 l)uxe lles S"uc". 211 bri(X'h~.
fI'l'iI,y.9H-45 t""ic pIC. 9-11 tb ~r a"d m""ly. 9-1j-.j~ n,!!inll and ,h~l'llIlI f"r Lnlst. and!atl ,hdl,. 946->i8
'W"'-1. 9-14-4~ r>.iI';'.1I01-2 1'11.7.:1, 930
I:' coil. 2S O"'Y I~a . 14~ f.... .>Iern (Atlamic) OYSl"rs. >i66 ~~.'1 India Cornp"ny. 14~ ~:';bi"'. 961 cOOcolale, 966-8"7 ~:'rl
past<'. 956, 961-63 basic. 96l -63 ~:Cloblt: pe-.o pod_. WI 1Od.459 ElC!!Plant. 578 )(rilled. " -Jill) ntu.,hroom ""bd wllh whit" lrum", 300. 621-22 r.'I~louille. 624 Eggp un! and Sun.Drled Tom.alO Pin:>,78S F-AAS. 534-':>6 l""king. '5-10-42 1"'~It:d. 546 as binders, 7l!9 blimzes. eh<....""" 555 l'Olllf'O"illOfl 01. ~36-'s7 c",beak", I ",~ict. 553- 54 cn?pt:s. 548-49 huck"h"~I. w"lt ""05:1/* and applt: .-.luffinjC. 5S4~55 SW~'t.1. S49 fr<:nch 'oaS!, {·ionam,,". 5':>6 rrilla[ .. ~. 544-45 Jnkhok". ~51_~2
g;onlt:n. S45 !9".dinlj 01. ~'s7 in-~hdl cookin!!
(~inlmt:rinjC)
<Jl.
'"
nUlli[illflal ""llJ~' ufo 5'ss-'s9 umt:1<-1 foldt:d. S43 Fn"flo(;h-S!},It:. S44 ~ntp and ">'OC'Joo. S43-44 p"n -(ryioll. S45-46 poach<-d, 547-41:1 prod"'-1~
of. 53tl
IOI"J)IC
of.
dtll~
~3tl
"hit<"l,5,36 whipp,-'d, 539 Eggs IknL-d kl, 552 EbslIn. !64 tli7.:lbeth I. Qu.,.,n. 145 fOrninc."'. dtfincd. r9 E"''''''IlI'''ler d k..,..,. 159 Emu. 382 E",,,hiFIC'~lio,,. 206.7&1 l:mu bified fa1.'. 874 Emulsifit-d S:llfCC. 691 " mulsifled Vln algrcllC Dress ing .
'"
oX", also Tools and <-'
.-.1'''''''''',),.31 Es<:argolln Ga rlic Runer, 854 -SS f;Swrgl)/s (,n.il». 465 ~:.s<-.,.roI~. ~:scoffi",.
684 Au,.:u ..", 6. -. ]4. 193,
m (8ro" 'n .s.o....,c).
F_~ p 3gllOle
20 1_ 1.201_4.21 f.:;pl'<''''''. 112 f_~pru;so a nd Oark Ch oeo lal" Sauc ~.... ]077 bt>"""" n",duallU. 142 Espre<. ( IImjn).I30 F.lh)·"""" g;IS. 7 10 Eurup:an nat ~'SI<-'1lI. 466 E'-~ porJI~-d milk. 149-'10 Evapor.lion I'<'dp<: ro"'·~"ions :md. 68 of ""Oler. 171-72 E"",,'s milk. 148 f.xeo.lli"e chc.f. 1~-1j E>. a. nJ,"OI"lII/CI. 6"6 blr.. vil)(in oI"'e oil. 136 f.,,,m,,ion. 6~1
fahric".led ~·Ub. !64 fabric"'nll nk'''. 265 famlt:lIl'"e hacl~ri~ . 14
~37-jIj
suM,ml"" f.....
Equipm~nt
Emulsions. :IS lIa''Ufinl\S. 876 En:"nel,,-.rc. 1'15 I,ndi",o ll.eig,an.(.6.1 rufly.684 Endoo;pcru" 6012 En}!l;"!' Hn-:Ikf"", I,'a. 144 Englk
/
Falafel. 778-79 fancy.
.II-purpo:>c ~h{)l'leni"g, 873 <.Iuri"l1 tXlki"lI. 8t!! hull~r and "'~I)(arine, 8':'4 coron.~ry Il<:an di....a"" ..,<.1. 52,
"
for
pom' <Jl. 137
,,,b<.,,,,,,,,<,,,,, 264
substilu'es (or atld "It ...mali"",
111.48 fat· free R:o..' phclT)'
'"
FJ[-
wamm.. 41
Fallhcrmonl<1~". ~·~·nil.
\'inaig, en ~.
s.s
126, 129 Fenne!. S96 grilk-d In", of r.• bb'l wilh splll:<eh. whh" t)t:l"-' and, 446-·18 fennel and Mus h rooms ~ I:a Greeque.627-28
1144
INDEX
f'"nUloin:ek. 1~6 F~fITI<."1n31ioOn.
27. 8M brt."au
of y....~SI few cn..-.:s.,. ISS s:lndwidt. chkkl'n pe;lo and.
no
F~1Hl£'Cin". spinach, 652 I'cnu"d n c Atfrl-dt), 673 "e llne dn" con !'''lIIO a U3 TnpanC!le. 6n
r,1It.1.ing.475 :.... sa!>dwkh filhng. 764 ..:uu"';ng. 4lI7419 snling.474 ~caming. 491-93 '''OOng. 4'73 ,{ruetu", ~nd muscl"
fonul (fomincl IJ). 151 Fon1l"" d><-'t.':;c, 157 ~'oruin~ V~l l) ''''ost J, 157
1'00<1 mul Ccclt..,yjor lbe Skk "",/ O:mmkfcem (Fanner). 6~
COIulXR;11I011 of. 456-57
Fin",", 133. 134
.,.~ .h. 463 Fish Fumel. 11:18 FISh sauce. 139 ,·"IouI<;.I99 ~-"h Sla.ion chd'(pQlw.m/d). II Fish Siock . 180. 187 - 81:1 fl:oky dough. 943-44 Flan. 943 crab m"~I. willi red ~ cool;'; ~nd chi...,.. 52-
filt.-tmi~.300
t1ank
~l!led dumplin!(s. 6~
t1a,h_fro~.
Filk1~.
t1ad"",.d. Rom:m (focaccia).
r~illo:<ees.
m. 960-61
F.bo:o",39 em"er and. 52 "kldl""", 458 ~·ll!s. 724, 740 flW; with Berr!.". a nd 1I0ney M o uss...
7~ 1
fish. 472 ,kin nin).l.476 f llIc ls ofSok 8onn~ Fe mme. fiIJing(s) cre~m.
""
9-19-50
Chocolal<",978-79 diplomat, 1027 for [)~nish I""-'lrics. 938-39 de"",n. IOSil gonad...,,988, LOll. 1017-19.
",..
chorol~,c.
ci>ocol~lC ma~..dami>.
lOIS
!rum,,<.
1019
978
p,,"'immon. 982 for pies and Ian.', 949-55 blu"bt:rry pi ... 9S2-53
chiff.",.9'lS rooIccrl juin:.
952
cus1aro.954-55 fruil. 949. ~-S2 fruil . ]Y.lkL'{l. 952-')4
prepared or ,-.1,,11<.'<1. 9S4 for s:loowicht·", 764-65 fj"", hem., ]21, In Fir<'
"xunl!u;"~.
9S
Fi",,"~id kils. 9S Fl,h, 4S4-533, $t.'(! alro ¥J<-
.,p.,cI,,,
~Jl:Idromous.
·ISS
""king~!>d
rO;ISMJ,(. 485-86 bon"s. for ..cork. UII broiling. 483-115 comb;na.;on cool"nll 111<.1hods.
497.... fill~lS.
472
~kinninl!. 476
fblfi,h. 456. ·163-64 1>OClt." structu", 01. 4~. 457 filk,1'fl,I(.475 pan-dr=,Oj.!. 474 f",,,,, .... ss cA, 471 fU1]1<.1. 187-~
1I"'~dinJ,(
of. 470-71
Willing. 483-8~ inspection of. 4'"0-71 nUlritional >.1"" d. 469-70
p.>n.fry,ng.489--9O poaching. 493-9(; d fish, 456. 4ss-63 IIlrudU'" 01. 157 om;n)! ...,3k, from ""Imon,i1.<-xl, 477
of"""". m
defined. 473
929-30 flatfish. 456. 463-64 bone .Iructure of. 456. 457 fillt.1.ing, 475 p:m-dressrng.4-4 ~httop . 91 FI.:",o.') of coffee. 142 ronc"pls of. 130 Roberts on. 132 t1avoral buue"" 191 t'b>'Ored coIfees. 142 t1a,'()I'e(l oils (imu""'" oils). 136. 191. 216. 211 t1,,,"on.'d \' ine)('l"" 137 1'la\,OOng(s). 81~-1!O alcoholic Il'!;.'v,,"'gtc"$. 8SO for c:lkes. chocolale.870-80 ""fined. 120 nnuWons and extr.K'ls. 816 "'tnilb.876 I'Ue •. 1I1;II"').Iel1",,1]{ Qf. 32 Flounder (..ole), 463-64
m
t'lours(s),864-67 aging ~nd bIe~dHOg. 865 all·p"'fX"SC'. 86~ compo:>lIi01'1 of. 865-66 nU"ili(>n~1 ,-~Iue.• of. 861 purch:!'~ing ~ nd ~Iori ng.
867
specialty, 866-61
....·"""".864-65 Hour sif,,_..-. 88 ~10\\'<.'fS. for ""I:.tds, 685 t1uoridlled "':11"" 41 F,~med m,lk. 142 FOlm frosliO!(. 10\1. 1014 !'ocaccla (Roma n 1'1a1bread). 929 - 30 grilled III:!Q po.ubella mu.>hrt>Onl ",oo"'kh on.
n6 FO\C gras. 383 g~bntin" on a p<:~r galene. smoltt,d dllck amI, 812_1.\ jerk, wilh gr=n lemils in b:&bJrnlo; v'''''')('It, H8-29 "",ut'-'ed, on ..... ,Id mushroom duxdk< with loostt.'d brioche,427-28 terri""". 799 fulotle,42 folding. 881 Fond. ddi .....xI. 219 Fondant. 1011. 1015 fond Ii.:;. 203 Fondue. ISS
Food clloppcr, 69 Food Gu;<.It! l'Yr~ mi<.l. 45-41, 54 Pool/I" 111s/01)' (1'a n n"hill), 2611.
'"
Food mtl!, 88 food processor. 99 Food ~t"ly and In.spection Sel\'ice (!'SIS>' 267 safety and ,anit'uion, \0,
"u:::;d
"COOtamin:olion, U:H5 21-32 croMfe .....orker, 33-34 food servk:e chcmical$. 28 Food :;cl\'~ Of><.'lOtions. 8-13 consume'" and. 10 kitchen bng;ode, 10-13 cbs>ic,10_11 defined, 10 modem. 12-13 new foods In, 9 new technolo).lil..'s in. 8-9 n"trilion ~nd di<:.1 COI>Ct'rns in, 9-10 Fo",emeat(s), -88-801 '-k. 191, 193-95 bask ganIC, 8 16 CQUn' ry"'yle.191-93 "'Iuipmem for prcp.1ring, 790 in galanlincs, 197-98, 804-5 ingredients ol, 188-90 ~i""" 191. 195-96 in p;i.1<;, m-48. 801-3 qUC1lClies. 191 sausage•. ~-7 ;n lemneS. 197-801 foreign SOtlp". 233 Foresadtlle, bmb. 338 Fore:shank, ""al , 314-16 fori<. chefs. 19 Fortll<."<.>neleM) ham. 809 Formosa OnIon).l lea, 144 "Fowl plague.- 384 fOI'QI sauce. 209 FrJngt."lko ,J:I<><;e, chocolat" hndnu1 marquis ...·ilb, 107S-16 FI't.'t.'-lOnge chkken:.. 3;8 Roman-style, 419 Free~lOne,., 733 fn""1.<:r bum, 210 French Ap ple Tan, 979 FrenciJ bre~d. b;tsic, 924 "re""h Butterere>m, 101 4 fr=d, dn::s..injl. 1""",_ S<>e V;nJ'Itn..1Ie(S) ~'r~nch fri~l,
666
Frenching. 33/1. 339 freneh knife, 80 f",nch (moussehn.:) bUIICfC't."~m, 1013-14 French O n ion Sou p . 252- 53 F",neh IO'J>1. 14(l french .scIVire. 12 F....'nch 10a". dnnamon. 556 Fresh, defined, 473 F",sll beans, S89-9O F,..,. h Berry Tan. 98 1 fn::s h eo.:onm Coo ke. 1029- :iO F.-.;,;h (coo,p,c;..<.ed) yeast, 909
""",h Cra nbcrT}'.()... ~ Sau«.
m """"'-fro«.... ddined. 4~ 3 Fresh tum. j63,!D)
Fresh Pe:ac h :and Y<>gun Soup.
'"
Fresh Peach Ta n ",lIh Almond Cr<:II n1 ,984-85 fresh ,,"uS;ol.(Cs. 80S Fresh shclJinjl pe-.lS. 591 Fres h SU":awbcrT}' Pic:. 975 Fresh S.... wtx:rT}' Shortcakt,
,,.
fres h 1'oma.o S~""e ror
1'3:;""
'1 22
F,..,.h W:ate. Shrlmp WrllPI'¢
garden. S45 fri11(,,,,,568-69 ~ppic.
569
banana. 754-55 Fn'/""'.>r(fry S1:t1ion chef). 11
frogs. 4j6 Fromag~
biane. 1~5 157 Fronu
C"k~,,) buu <"c",~rn.
1011_H Fr"neh,IOI3-14 Ilali:m. 1012-13 simple (... meriotn«)....). 1011 _ 12 wh .. " chocobtc, .. nill. r.SI'I)O;!rry I~)'cr C'~kc wilh, 1026 _21 ut."Jm ~h~'.,:;c, 1028 fo,un. 1011. 1014 fond:.tm. 1011. 1015 fudge. lOll, 1014-15 b:t.>k. 1015 marole shee! C'~k" ..... ilh. 1028-29 ganache,968, 1011, 1017~19,
,,,..
choooLtle. 1018
""m"",
Chocol~1" 1019 g1a1.<:. 190-91. lOll. 101$-16 sug:.tr. basic, 1016 sUg;Jr, po .....dered. 935 P"'p.>red, 1017 .-oyJllcing (decoI"JIOf'S io;""g), 1011. 1016-17 troIJbic:;hoollng dWI!Of, 1018 Fro~, ddim-d, 473 Frozen foods, ",fely fo<. 25 Fru;t(s),718_58 acid"t;,uon of, 741 ""king. 144_45 H:"-Jrian, f=ll, 1~9-SO ~, "'ZO-21
broiling. 7H-~4 <:anned,741 cilrus, 722-24
CUlling p•.'cl., 724 sau';"''
;egrno:mmg. 725 7.e>t;ng, 723 deq>-fry;nK, 746
INDEX di""~,,,,~
linked 10 defk;.:ncy in,
"
dooene'>S c( rook~'Ii. 743 dno.'Ii,742 COfllpol<,.748 <,xorks.724-26 fro,.(:n.741-42
brai.scd. in sour cn:am. 443-44 bison (Ameri"".... b"ff~lo), 433-34.435 grilled >leak. 449 Comi>h hen. 379 roast, with wild rk" Muffing,
'"
~33. ~3S.
437. Sw,,/so
.\«lIdlng. 7YJ
dc.'er.
gr~p"S.
Venison fo.-cC111CJI. basic. 816 ldenlifyi~, 432-36 (""'then:;>m, 435 /"1$1,,, I) /" $tJ"Jl~....,IIIl",ct!. 436 roast. wilh cognat· and .pples.
72.6-V
!;r~lin
nf f",sh L>erries willI crem.. fr~iche. 752-53 grilllnll' "'43-« idla~. 741 ;',icin 74l-43 ke]);Ihs. rill~
"~-29
nuuiuo nal ,"~llIC of. 738. 739 ~s pic :",d I~ " fillln)(. 950-~l bak<"ll.952_54 po:Khing. 747-48 pomes.7JO-32 prc:""rving. 7411-49 purclu.,inf(. 740. 741_42 puri-e.;, Sn1Coulis ript'n,~.
-YJ- 4O
:;'1uI~lng. 745-46
SlI"ory, for roaOl pork. 746 simmering. 748 >'I""" (drupt'$). ~32-34 storing. 741-42 tropical. 734-38 wilh passion f",11 I"'r;;." 7~ ""I:ad w;lh yogurt ut'CS>'ng. 752 Fruil("~ke. frt"flCh·Slyle. 999
Frui, ""lad,. 695. 701 f"'~-\"Cg<."\ahles. 5n-82 3'"OC:>do!;. 5i7-"'8 and .hrimp omelet. 543-41 liOUthwe.-lem Ilri llo:d ch<..,,,,,
.!.:ondwlch "'ith chipolle pu ..... ~J\d. 77i eg)(l'lanlS. 57f1 I(riliL-d. ",.rtn mu~hro011l s:ol3d
"'ith white truffles and. 621-22 r~talouille. 624 P"Pp""'. s..~. l'epper(s) tomatillos. 581 lom;tloe>, $i!e TOln:lto(es) Fry O..,ad Canap6i. 847_ 48 fryers,
fry staUOn chef (/rll"",,,",. II FSIS (Food SafelY and Inspeclion Scrvi<;t». 267 Fudg<" brownies. tr.Klitiorul, ~ Fudge (lO:SIing, 101 I, 101 4-15 oo..ic,1015 ,""rhl" "heel ",~ke wilh. \028-29 Fudg<" sauce. chocolate, 1078 Fu"....."!. 180, 187-88 Fungi, 27 FUngicide". SO
Fusilli. 653
Cll;tnlir.<,(~)
(~lIr~.
on ~ pear &'I1<'Ile. smokL
«9-50 SluITt:lng. 438 quail. 435-36 egg. ~36 grilled, "~th 1'01::1.10 &'Ildte. anichoke ,,-t:dH<'~ and balsamic raspll<.'rries, 4~1_52
r~bbil , 43~-34.
435 wilh ClI'"Jldli jXl.>1:l. 448 -49 bulcll<";n)(.434 grillt'd 10m of, "·,,h spinach. (<:nnel aJ\d white beans. t>r~I><.-d.
4·16-4S Sloring. 438 wild ~r, 434. 435 Ganache.988, lOll. 101--19, 1034 chocolale, 1018 I",me.. 1019
GanaclK Coating. 103S Ga n ac h e fillIng, 1034 wmlc-mllllg{'r (pantry dl<'O. 1 I,
"8
Garden frlnat.a, S4S Garlic, 5874!!1 t... lsamic and """It:
415-16 choppinlt. 112 n)aSlo:d. sauce. 220 shrimp "'lth oIh'e oil and.
521-22 to;asto:d. I",n·fricd troul with,
""-,
G.rlicchi"es.121 Garlic C"",m . 2 19 mushroom tans with. 219 Gullc Croutons for Salads, 70 8 Garlic-oil >"uo.'$. 659 Gldic S:l<Jre. noisett<.,; of lamb with. 356 Garlic TIt"b"I.,,,, 62S Garlic Y<>gun Oressl ng. 71B Gam,sh(e<). 10115 c:tnapl-s, 831. 832
of compclS<.-d ""Iad.<. fin dessert. 1058 in (<:JfU.'Illt."lt, 790
on pl~I<'S. 1091-93 (or soup$. 233. 247-49 ('arum, 193 Ga) J(rill. 92 Cast"'luc. 204 Ga'ltoflOmy. deFtned. 14 C1leau. 943
Gr:ain>.642-51 b.rl ...'Y. 645-46 buckwhcallka,ha,646 com S<'t'Com do""n.,,,, of. 64--46 mold",/!, 1();I6-117
nutritional value. of, 646-47
c.1 teau St. HOIl0n!', 970 _7 2 CauFreue, H7 C~u);C
oF mat~rial. 84
Gnpacho. 247 Cebtin. 181,8"'5 COOct."ntr~tions. 800 Gdalini7.;llion. 171. 192. R65, 882 Gelato. 1052, 1053-54 Ccnoosc, 1001-2 claMic, 1001-2
m.
Cc<>docks, 465 Germ. 642 Gil)lct gr~'1'. roast lu
397-96 Giblels. jIl2 Gingcr. 126, 129 .poI:I.to pur;;.,. 666- 67 ,hrimp po:Kht:d in or.H1j(C juice. saulernc and. 522 Sle~n>t:d ~11op>. wilh 1".. ,1. o""'ge and. 519 "hole: siuhng C'~tfish '" "h 1'on7o\O s:tuce ~nd, ~71 GI"It" rbrt:ad Cook.ics. 99 ' Ginger Qu;o.md Sauce:, 977
362-83
::;i:o,;u'l.ls. pouLtry.
::;la, .l)te , 2O') GI,,,,· tie polssoll. 190 GUICe lie 1'/(J."/e. G/fI(e ,t.- ,vI"Uk'. G/flek'r. II
190 190
CI~.", ~'OO kwart.' , 85 Gt.."'<", 190-91, 1011. 101~-16
OI"~ngc,
1006
sugar I>;&,ie. 1016 powdered. 9~5 Gla7.t.'d, ddint'd. 473 GIa:I.ro !'earl Otlkms. 623
Glucme.39. 101 5 Gluten. 865 GI)'oogcn, 268 Gnon:hi, potato, 6n-7fI Go;u -Cheesc K"vlol; In Il erbed Crcan, Sauce:. 672- 73 Goal's null:. 148 Gwt's,milk cheese. 160-61 G(~den. Harris. 43 Golden Dd,c;ous apples, 730 GoLden r:ai.~iru, 742 Golden "'hitdi., h ",~viar. 8M Gold honeydew" 729 Gold "'"Icnndon.<, 729
Goo<.300 da~of.
();tIS,646
pibF method or rookln!!, 650-~1 ptJr.;h:'sinK,647 rice. 51'!' Rice riSOl!O method of rooking, ~-SO simm...,;ng. 648 storinll. 647 wheat . Scc \\~l<'at Gr.",,,,. COfWertmg 10 oonccs. 66
Grarut. 160
">;&"t, wilh ~~Jbha!le a nd apples,
424_25 Goose eggs. 536 Go{)sefi,h. Sec Monkfish
G0I'jI0I\1.Ob, 157
85' Gouda ct.e..."."
,...-~Inut;;
lSI!
Goob.h.288 Hungarian. j()8 Gourd<. 583-&1 Gounnand, 14 Goormet.14 Goun1lt.'1 foods. 14 Gr-~IT, Rlclunlll. , 141
and.
7r
Gro""dJl/'£1(p""'iorI f",its), puree, tropkaJ fmit with. 7';0 Gf'(wl4.. cuts/rIC. 5, 6. 7 Gr:>nny Smith ~ppk>. -JO Granulated wh'le SUg:I1. 868 GrJpcfnoit,722 Imlik-d,744 Grapefruit Sorl>r1. 1055 GrApes,
"26-v
Gratin l>a uph ino lS<.', 638-39 Gratin of frQ; h Ikrrlcs wllh Creme f ....iclK, 7 52 -S3 Gravlax . 461. 807, 8 24 Gr:l''Y gi1>k1, toa>1 !urk<'Y wilh chestnUI dressing and. 39~-96 pan, 191. 212. 217 pan.(ried chicken w,lh, 404_~ as ""un,, 191 G ....'dt ""It'riel'" $i!rlj'ooll 0xJId!00k (Loomis),463 Creal Nonll<'m beans, 590 Grttk ~a 1:od , 713 Grttk.stylc Scr~mbkd Eggs, 55 1 G"""" I,.,~n(sl. 589-91 r~gout, roa.'\l~"Il "e~! chop wilh morel and, 325 G"""" "'4bh~gc:s. 5-:'6 Gret.'fl chile. south",..,>!ern ;.cr~ mbled eggs wilh choriw ""d, 5SO G"",n Goddess OrQ;sing. 706 Grttn l.emils in Ib ~mic Vln~ r.429
Crt:<:n vl;,',-"" 136 Grt:<:n pcppercurn" 127 G_584-85
C"""" ... Lads. 695-98 compO><."Il. 695. 697-98 tossed. 695-96 Crttn>l'eU musscb, 466
C""""
t<·~.
143
Criddk~~h's. 895-96
Griddles. 91 GrlllDnllfl
380
n.'<.I potatoes ",ith
1145
(1Uill oUtlOl\ chef),
II
Grill<"ll 8fIQ Pon:a.bclla Mushroon' S"ndwich o n Foc~ccb. 776 Grill<"ll 8u((:0 I0 Sleak, 449 Grilled Chilean Sc~ KaSIS w 11h Anasaz.l Hean Stew ~ nd Nopal CaCI"" Salsa, SOO-SOl Grilled frull Ke babOi, 7S3 Grill~'CIl.amb Chop:'> "~ Ih Ue rl> lIu""r, 273 Grilled la m b C ho~ " 'lIh Sn lOkro Corn and U' lki Mushroom t>oien l:l and l>u m pkln......,d C..,am, }49- 50
1146 Grlll~'"
INDEX Lobster with ,"cUow HOI
Chi les a nd Chipollc I'asla with C hlpolJ<: He" ...... Blanc, ~29 - 30 Gril lt.-d loin o f Mabbit will>
Spi","c h, Fe nnel and While Beans. 446 _ 48 Grm ....t I'oMabcU" Mus hrooms.
6" Grilled 1'01310 Salad . 662 - 63 Grill ... .. Prawn Broche lle wilh HUlternUl Squash
Risono.522 - 24
!]"libut. 464 sautffiJ, with th,..,..-<:oIOf peppers and Spanish ,.,li ,"es, ~-89 Ham(s).809 l)()fldc"",, (form.'(I). 809 Houri)()fl bak",'1. 370 country-style. 807. 809 fr.",;h. 363. 809 pr<xiCiul!o (I'a mw ham). 809 duck wilh f""h mango. 825-26 gri lle-.:I shrimp with basil and,
Grilled Quail wit h Potato Galcn". Ankhokc W..'
859
S. lt-<:'"'<.-.:I , 007 shirred egg.> with. 54(1-41 Westphalian, 809 ~ lIamhurger, 773 ! Hand tool.<. 79-81 IIdl I"'ppcr J elly, 348 H"nd washing pro,..«\ure, 29 Grlll ..>d Red Sn apper Hurger wi th Hard che.,,;,:. 160 Mango Ketchu p. 774 Ihrd-cooked (hard-boiled) egf(s. Grilled Salolon Club with Cilantro Aioll, 784 Hard s,,,,s: (l IACCI') and Rasil. 859 32~33 Grilled Squab w ill. Basil "utler, Hndnul. 133 393- 94 dloco\ale m""lu;';. w i,h Grilled Veg<:lablc S k""'e rs. 604 fr~ngdico "'lUce. IOi5~76 Grilling. 17j r..ck of bmb wilh n"'
,.,
.)'>''''''''.
344~45
fish. 4113 -85 fruilS. 743-44 I11C31.271-73 poult')'. 392-~1 shelms!>. 0183-85 nog"i"!)!,,,.60:1-4 vitamin t'l1emion :md. 43 Grills.n Grill .c. IS') Guacamole. 850 Gua,"~. 724-25 Gu':"""I. Mkhd. 8 (;lIide clllillaire. fA! (~~"'om~r). 1. 14.233 Guilds. 4 Guine:!.380-81 dass<:s of, .l
t"'''''.
HACC!' S)·.• 32-33 Iladdock, 459 1!:.lf·and·ha lf. 150 11"lf.hitch Ol"'lhod of tyin).: me:".
,65
vinai/<'''tte. w .. nn dock nr...JSI ",,]:,d ",ilh ASian spk... , and. 421~22 Head "",il"r (eh"f de sa il.,>, 12 tic"ns. poultry. j.62-1\j IIcar1y VeJj:et:lble fkefSoup. 23S ~ 36
H.,"I !'OOd uct ion . !net:l ls and. 84~86
's
H"al ,,1T..... on
Herhiddes. 50 lI erb Mayonnaise. 780 IIl' m O il. 228 H"rhs. 1 20~l3, 129~30 /<",ni,hing pb,es wilh. 1091~92 fOf sahili, 685~ 86 Hl'ro.';. ;63 Herring. 460 ilershey, Mi)ton. 8n Hilo:h ca,hon slaink'ss sl~....1 COf"l"ruC1ion , 8(l IHgh -r~'io <·akes. 997. 1000 ydlow. 1000 IIig h · R:otio Yel low ca ke, 1000 H;J:\l I"a. 145 llilld. Rabbi . ;67 Hind"ddlc. k"nb. 338 Hippen gamishing pl:"c, wilh. 1092-93 li IV.2') Hoogi"~. 763
"'"S..;e.
H0II-',
5<.... ,,/,\"() Pork
New World hi,tO!)' of. 363 ,.kelt1,,1 Slructu", of. $1 Hobin saUl..,. 139 Hollanda ise. 205~9, 207 , 217 rescuing broken. 206 small sau<·"s, 208~9 """p'·"lIures and sanilalion conc<:".",,206 tomato chile. 554 Ho llandaise. Olender Method .
'"
1I0me.Sty le Mealloaf, 303- " Hominy (pooole: ",,,,,p), 643 Homogcnil.;olion. 149 Hon"y mousse. fi).:s with berries and.
Hummus.
gq9 ~ SO
Hunga ~ia"
Goulas h , 308 Hungarian ."' uc". 201 Hung game. 438 Hunter's Sa Ul'e (chasseur ,"ucel. 203 Hus h Puppies ( Occp-Frlcd Cornbr"ad ), 9<12 Husk ( hul l). 642 Hybrid menu. 6 1 Hydrog"nation . 40 HydfOm~1"r, b.ume. 871 H)w'().
m as ""t:Clen",. 1f70 Honeyckw mdon<. n8~29 1I0ney m ousseline, 1 070 ~7 t l1on"y· Mus t:Jrd Oco>"er Ribs.
3"
lIoo"y Wheal"uile, 1063 Hoods. vem ilalion. 95 Hors d·oeuvrc. 82$~59 hlu" <:om and .hrimp lamal.",;, 858-59 buckwlw", hlini. 846~47 c h"vre 8SS cold. 830 ~39 ~"napt;", s.."'Can:opt;5 cavi:!r. 834~35 c",dileS. 835
"""'s.
~u"camok.
led",!}: lt1tuc<:, 683 wring.6&l lc~box ~'(l<)kies. <)66~67
Ie" c.",;ngs, 11 10 lee c""m. 1052, 1053-54 (~,r;"(ld. 1071 d~>c"b l"' , 1076 ~n
hon"y. Ion ",undried f",il rompOle
o"lmeal >o1oot. 976~n Ice Cr"am Base, 1054 ked Ica. 144 I"in/ol, :;..., f rosling{s) Imita1ion eh""...,. 161 Imil:l1ion cho....o l"", 879 Imilalion sour =~Ill. ISO Inekl"ni:ol food oddili""". 49 /",I"mlscbe //,,,,,,.382 Indian saffron ({umleri~), 12& 119 Indi"idually qukk f,o,.cn (lQn
850
hot,l!4Q~4j
bro"hClIes. 840~41 fi llc-d paSII)" shdls, 840 mc:ttb"lIs. f!4 1 oth"r. 843 ",maki. 842 Mufk-.:l WOnlOn skins. 842~43 hUIl"lH",. 849~50 kal:nnata oli"" and a,i").:" crosli ni. S48 I,nnl, S'":')', 852~53 pickkd ,"c/olet~ble rolls, 8S I ~52 p",p"r~lion guidelin"" 8, 1 n:d poiotO<."S wilh w"lnUIS and g<)')IUnzob. 853
""f'\'inf(.843-45 buffel scf'\'ke, 844~4S bUller ,;ef'\'k". 844 ., h,imp enullp!.,. gS6~57 spana kopiltJ. 856 spin;.ch and "t1ichokc dip. 850~5!
-<pri nl( rolls. 857~58 stuffed mushroom c"ps. 854 Hors<.·r~di.h, 200 sauc". appk 226 1101 :ood Cold Chocoble. 1076 ~77
HOld p"~n,. 87 Hot peppers. 580 HOI smoking, 808 Hoo'en. Conr~d '~m. Hughes. Mike. 4~7 Hull (husk). 642 Hulling. &Il I luman" ~klhod:i o f SI"ughler Act (978). 267 Hum~n immunodcfid~n<"y vi"," (1lIV).29
m
,,',,It.
Ion
'"
Indu<."1ion. 170 tnk...,ions, i):lcterial. 22~24 Infr.trcd c<x,king. ](;9~70 Infused oils rn""Of<-d oils). 1,\1\, 191. 216. 217 Infusion. 141 In-lam oots. 646 Instant (quick-<."OOking) ric". 6B InSlanH""d Ih .. rm"m~t"', 83. 2"4 In,lanl ye",.t. 909 Instilu,ion,,1 cook. 13 Instiluliona\ .\bn l'urchasing Sp'"CiflC"~t ioos (1.11]>$), 269 I,~
C1Irr;ef'S. 94 food "ddiliw" 49 Inlerfe",nts. 1f72 InIOX;C"~tion. b;lo;!"ria l. 22_24 Irish coif"", 142 Irish Lamb Slew, 3S3 ~ sq lri,h l'ot:oto F;omin,· (JS46~ 11Wl), Im~"111ional
""
Iris h Soda 8r"ad. 9<11 of food, 269. 59'), 741 Issuin).: .,l3ndar
Italian Me rIngue. 964~65. %5. It:.li"n ]",Iian lu lian
"".
p:tr:sl ~r.
123
ro-~.1
(CSPt'l"SSO roo'ol). 140 S"U""~". a"icl>ok",! >Iuff.,... wilh, 62'5~26 Ivory ,$H'W. 201
):0],1''''''0"
coring. 580 ""'~I 1"11 of lamh wuh. 346-1~
1147
INDEX }~m.
748. 749 quince. ~49 jJrn.:lican f'
j~ra"<."'"
KoIscll~zky. fr.uu ee.""",. 113 Kosht-r fnods. 1099 Ko.ht.'r SJlt. 131
Kumquats.
'"
n2
jul.,,<·'lI c""","". 1S9
Ladyfi~~"D.
Ji<."~nu.
Lag
J<1fl"lh~n ~rr>k.,..
730
Iilhnl!.~2
ulClobt",jI/II" btligur1cllS, 151
Lacy 1'<.'Ca l1 Cook ies. 993 Ladds . 1I3
1032-33
bU)'h"ringof.339-41
gnlled "i,h 5mOk..-d rom ~nd wikl mmhroom polenta an<.i pumpkillSl",u c"",m.
349 -SO cuts of. 336-39. 342 lri:;.h st<.'W. 353-Y1
n8
m".'t~-d ,,·;thjal;'pet\o. 346-47
n:>Il. 916
""la m~l~
0 11>·... a nd Asbgo Crosllnl, 848 Kale. 576 K",h~. 646 Kasha "'~rnishk"s wit h wild ,\ \us h ro<>m s , 671- 72 Kd).lh (.) fruil. grilkd. ·53 ~h;'ll.
joi5
stuffed. 34"-48 loin of. 338. 340-41 !i:lUl<",u. wilh Sluffcd ~i
f!Ob'ocs
""'''!to. ~4 -~5
Kcit""'. >!<·am. 93 Kid .....'),,, I~IIl". hroil..-d. ~16 ,·cal. 318. 32·1 King (Chinook) ",lnl
Fooll ~·"".«Scl""ml').
''''''
K,,,,"'.
w'th Illustaru 3m1 hudnuL>. 344-45 IWstcd ,,~th minI ~rid cel ... riac
..... ....,.,.343 ~h"'h
'"138
K'lcht.'1l design. fnOOs:.ft1)'
d......"
;m
Kerr. GrJlmn. 55 Kc1chup.
~nd
ronfit.351 noi .... 11~.' of. Yll "'nit /ilarli<' .s:ou~y. 356 rack of. 338. 339 grilled ,,·,th ro:scm:ory ~nd SPICY bdl P'-"1'I"-'r jelly.
\"0,,,1. 327 K<",IIlum t<·J. -.14 K<.'fltocky lx:>u,hon . ,S;iutm! chick<'1l willl. 4ZO "' ... nllocky 1101 8m"' n Sandwkh .
~nd
s:.nit;uion an<.i. 31 ~35
dricU. 742 Knc;,di~. 8il1 KnifclkniV<.':.<. itO-III. 104- 17 ("J"'of. 107
kc.'b:ob. jol5
ril". hOf\<:y·mu"anll)en,·cr. 350 salad of. wi,h hourll(ll1 v'n:oiW"1t .... 714 shanks. OIl"'PJ>C11;'5. "'l1h lenuls ~n<.i coont!)' '·eg<.1~bI<:s.
'"
,;kd... lal ~truClur... of, 337 Lamhen. Paula. 155 Lamb N:a\'arin . '55- Sf> La mb PaulO' " 'ith MIni . 34S - 46 Lamh S:I.l~}'. 852 - 53 [;1mb S3 u~al!<' with Tr icolor llean Salad. 8 13- 1" Land. S hank with ...,,,,,Ubdc. 352 Uml""'.l1<"~l.
94
L:mgou...c' ....... '69 ups:mg ~chon8 tea. 144 LanJ. t!7.j LanJin)ol m,,;,~~. !71 L de /" c"isi",' "" XIX" sieck
"11
(e:.~).6
651
L:L'\;I~.
L:I"endo:r. 122 ,..I~d of ahi tuna "'itll. and pepper wilh whole·
13-14 Kohlrabi. 5"'7
with oIi"e 0,1 and. 6 10-11
""a,ro
gr~in
nUl>t>ru
,.;I....,.,.
711-12 lead consumplloo. 8$ I....admg ("""her) !i:lUC<:>, 191. 196 kaf IC11ltO:. 683 l.... tl62 fornkd.m u- O.Uf,,1t!t'jn:"'ri.f(\'~rcnn ... ), 193 la-k(.,). 'jII8
a,..,""r<.
st ..~nled ",,111101'1 "~th 01"" oil an<.i.492 Swlsl; ~h:Hd with I"nt.' nutS and. 628.-29 tulke."}· sc:tllopint.' with ("~PC" an<.i,426--Z7 I.o:roon Cu rd. 75S lemon grass. III u,mon G.-.<SS Ma)'on n~isc. 528 I.o:m o n G.-...,,~ O il . 528 - 29 Lemon M... rlnll"" PI". 974 - 75 Lemon Rc m o ulade Sauce. 772 Lemon "hl1" ,,;....... 'tl ''C:II ......~11op. w,th. 2!lO-81 I..,mo n So r h<:l. 1073 Lemon Tea Hre ad. 903 - 4 I..,mo n \'lna lgl'<:l1':. 702 - 3
$I"""'.
"""t....
m
l<..nliJ(~).
broiliOjl.4"9 hun..... 211 gnlle.'tl. "'itll )dk,n> hot chile." ,00 <,l1ip<)(I .. (>:"t :1 with chi[>Olk h<'lI1'1'C h,"nc.
529-30 «.'fllO\-;ng "",al f">m s""U. 480 ,,",ut';'n/lht.'.4"9 s k,lkt of. ami IIlU,hrt)OOlS pro'-"",ak. ~jl-j2 an<.iturl><". pbnullc of. 8'!o-21 Lob&;I.,.. ~ I·AmcrXal ne. S30-31 l.obsle. lieu,.,.: Hbnc. 2Z5 LobOle«'1tc.4I'>9 Log ph.,,.,. 24
On"
"'"'. 464
belu}!3.661-62 OIl:lPIX1ti'.• I~mh slunk w,th country "")01"",\)1"" :
W'-"'-·n. ,n halSlmiC '·illt'gar. I'--rk fOle gr~s wilh. 428-29 t",me vinaign.1te. 660-61 lo<.1\uce.6A2 -II.1 l);Iby.6A} Ho:ston.683
culling. 687 iCd.><"1')C. 683. 688 Ie'~f.
cuuin" w~h. 109-16 COOl'PlIlg, 111_12 dicing. 112-15 ""nOng. 116 ..ticing, 109-10 tou""-'r.116
"ripping. !Oi
ch,d"",a~
1)(~k'tl.197
lomb. 3j8.
~_41
.... uti:",u "~Ih >!lIfft'd r&b poD1OCS "rid che"y
oonfit.351 f'OI'k. 362-63 honing. j6.J ...hops fn:>m. 366 ",,~I, 316. 3Z"-2Ii
I.oL.t
oohy 1~11U<;",
,,'/Sa
I~'nd"n
broil.
6!!j
m"rinal~'tl.
302
l.on gdullnp. 1059 - 6o Lon/il.g ..~,n """. 643 ~horn rn....:".,. 1'>9
L<x"" .... .su,<,m Hcrrn>;Ollll. -.63 lottc. SWMonkfi,h l.ow· Fat Illue C h ~..,s<: Dressing.
'"
J.oy,(~t milk. 149 Low t ....~. 145 Lox. 161
L"'-""gc "'UI. ! 10 LlIk,,~•. "hdl~ . 763 LumrHISh ("Jviar. 834-35 L)'Qnnaisc PoU t....... 639- 40
s:>btl. quino:&, rcd""" and. with
cumrulling. loa
.• • rc usc of. 106 shalp<"lling. 107 ""'''' k~ of prro/'<""tOO;il d>d'.
"
1.em<>n.722
~';I,..·i n g.
"~l.....'r
ami. 516 ,·kh)-.<.o;obc (mid [>Ol3to-k.... k "lI.Ip).245 1.cgume>. 589-91 u'8"mIt!t'C ..... >t>lion chd).
Lamb.3~56
kotlnt:)~ broil..-d. jot(, k.')t of. 338-39. 340
Z03
484-8S mu.'S<:is "ith c:lrmu
Sl",,~tno:'
""""b!e
pt.:.se. 24
gnlkd "·',h ""If> lIu11"'. 273
Juk't."1'S.90 Juicing fruiL>. ~41-43 j"h...."'.... Ill. 114 Jumbo Cinnamon Huns. 935 J"'I8W. 7lIt'CSincIJ"). 26i juniP<"'. 126 J'~.I;o,.
l3bcltng See P2cbge bbehn/il
blanqut.1t" of. 354-55
ludg",,,nl of prof"",io",,1 chd'. (~ Juice. C<)Ok..-d. "' pic and tan
S8H
""'I'.
"'U,"",<-'tl. broik-d hbck sea 1);1". "nh ""I'h buu....- and.
j ... lly. 748. ~49 aspIC'. 799. 800 )llJ7inR pate ~h"" with. 803 Jerk Fo le Gras wit h Green Le"llb In Ilal~a mlc \,1""8"1'.428- 29
John
mussel> wi,h t;l,<.
chi"'"
dc~ning.
(Pacific) nyster.. 466
S93 Dory (SI 1'<1'-"', fish). 460
a~c.med
611.1 mach" (lamb·,lenu",,). 685
lIoma;"". 629-30. 683. 687 ,,-.o.shing.6R8-89 WNIIl.I95 LIght cre;t.m. ISO Light M),,, 8r ... ad , 920 I.Ight whipp;n/il ""'am. ISO
1J,,><:Chlffon. 1050-51 ltfl1<:5. 722 Unc cooks. 13 IJnzerTan, 973 Liqucurs. 880 l.iquid m~~,urin/il cul'.!l2 Liquor. 880 chocol;.t/.· (cllocoIate """"~). fI77
Li>I<-m.25 Jju""""'ks.465
M;>("'~/Oni.
c~l"o:s'.
311. 323
chick ... "
ct.opp..d. ~1. 821 s.oUl.:.:d. ~17 dock. CAn;,p'; w~1I candio:'d ,hub:l,b. ""utm!, &19 f>OUhry. 3I!2-{13 IJv~ T... 799. !l 17- 18 d..'S .I.e (Escoffit.-rl.• L.obst...,.(~). 463. 4&1-69
rri"".
""''''OS.
651
-'I"""mnl and Ch~. 67 5 1>1.
........,.,. 203
Madcldn ..... , 9')o ,\I.hi ·rn.:lhi. 460 M~'nt' Ioh"t<'I'<. 468 Mail", d·UOId hun....-, 211 Muf/n·,l'boIei(ditllng room "",na~r). 12 ,\IlIftre d'bQl<'ljn:mC(. is. l.c (Ca ••'mel. ~bJOr
6
mint'r.lls. 43. 4~
M;lI~!i..'oOI.
M~Jkt.
835
""'.1. "9
M;,luisc
Jjv~'r
lj,.,..,
Mac ~d:utl b FIlling. 978 M",-"d;l.mia,. 133. 134 pr.lline too .... ch<xol~t .... 9n-79
s:lU"".
!09
,\ t,I, vin"'I!"'. 137 .\ I.ndoIlnc.89_ 117 M~ngo.
-36
c.luck prosciulltl With (,esh.
1125-26 Ma n IJOCh ulnl'Y. 7S7-~8 Man!(O Kelc hup. 77'1 - 75 ,\1anil;(~I'. 653 M~nila dam. 46~ Maplc-G lncd C;>1TOt!I. 6 23
1148
INDHX
Maple ~)'rup, 8""0 Marble Sh eet C:;a i
264
;I.[arbiing,
~klrinl:t.
172
M""0(5). 60-62. Set>
am Buff~1
M"S:l h",i"", 643 />lase-.upone. ISS-S6
presem:r.uon conrrolling food costs and. 71 langu~ge of. 61-62 mea, purch:>se and. 268-69 nurril!on:r.l ot:It""""'lS in. 62 nurntion l~belin8 for. 54 pbnnin8 and designing. 1098-99 lype5 of. 60-61 Mcringuc. 956. 963-65 b:iked. 987 common. 964 lurd. 963-64 naHan. 964-65. 104] lemon. pic. 974-75 963 Swlss.964 troubleshooting chan for. 965 M(·ringu(.' bun cr<:re~n1. 1012-13 Me~lun . 683 Me..:lun Salad whh Raspbcrl")' Vlllaigrell".697 M",ahvll"n. M'ned. 41
Matzo 1),,11,. dlicken soop Wilh,
M<1JI~
~btg:l.rine, ]~j,
tr4
Marln~lcd
Loin " fVe nlson Roao;,"" wllh ;l.lustanl.
""2 - 43 Marl natcd London Droll. 302 Marifl.1t1ng
game.
2~O.
43!1-j9
R'
pooliry. m-91 Matjor~ "'.
122, 129 M,,,kt.'l menu, 61
)
squab glad w'lh. ~25-26 Melon hall etnllel'. 79
M~nmla
748. 749
or~n )(c ••,w~"C(,
?58
Ma"lu;", 10'i5 chocob lt: hndmu , ",ilh
f"''''I.I<."iic'O S;tuc<:. 1075-76 Mar/Jpan, 1020
25 1-52 Ma},oml'aiSC:. 691-93, 692 - 9]
'><-"th,7lIO lemon
kr~..;;.
528
a~
santlwkh sprew. '763 Mayonn aise: Ch a W ·I'Mld . til 0 Mealy dough. 943-4·1 ~""'Iy <..u,.,hy) l>OIalO<"<. 636
M.,asun."",,,IS. 63-M. A2. 115-16
(orrn;",.63-64 S}">I<""S
of, 64 - 65
,\""""";ng d",'''''''', M2_fH Mt..~,. 262-91 .s;,... 1100 1k"Cf; lIanl(~), Lam!>, Pork, V"a] ag,ng. 268 Ix>rdi~.
no
br~;"lng,
2i!4-87
broiling. :m-7j bullerllying. 300
dominanr.7RiI-89 dOfl<:""ss of. 272. 274 in for""rnears. 788-89 !lr~drn!l of. 266-67 !lrill ln!l.271-73 h,slory of ,,,f~1y n,.,a,,,,~<. 267 ,n,JX"<"ioo of. 266 l ~rd; nR. 271 marin"inR. 270 muscle C'O!"I")>lIIOII. Ui5-66 nurritional '';tIl>(!!; of. 265-66 p"n.fryinR. 281-82 purcila;inll. 268-69 roasung. 273-'7ll SlU""W'.
H06
;.Jur';;ng. Z78-S] slnm",ring. 2J'j3-84
$IC\>.·,ng. 28"-90 Slorinl:t. 268 _'YO M<~~tb"l1s. 841 S,.,<-disll. K41 .lilY" fJ/,),(,1"$ GuidI'. 7be. Z69 '\Il~~tloaf. hon",·.,yi.:. j()j-4 M~al mal!"1. 79 ~k'<:t",nic-JI conv....:tion. 169 ~kdlllion.
rook,,*. In
Ml,
.\k-drich. Alke. 81:10 Mdon{s).728-29 ,...1",.1'h,, '.227
son.
Ire" ronduaion and. 84-86 ro~ic. 28 '\k1ric ~ysr"",. 64 - 65 .\k·xic:m ficsra. buffet presemarion for. 1104 .\Iic<:. n""n;r~"""'1 of. 32 Mi<:nxNg:Inisms.21 .\hc..,..""", cooking. 170 ''''g~'U1.rks. 614-15 .\licrQ""''''' ",,·ens. 91 Migr>oll<-'tl". T19 .\tlgno nclle S:lrucc. 221 .\Iol:tna;,e >'IUCC. 205 M,lk. ].18-5} bul1.".. 5<., lIuner(s) roncentrJled. 149-SO """J ill. ISO-51 ruhurcd dllry product.s. 151-52 ~"",porJ l~'(i. 149-SO C\>.·~·s. 141:1 fo:;"",11.142 go;ofs.148 luwfa •. 149 ' lI1,m n:rn wirh OI"."'g~ W'Jler. 1062-63 processill8 (edrniq u"s, 148-49 .kim (nonf3l). 149 ""~nlCd. 142 .wa'I<·ne(.] rondenscd. ISO w;r,cr buff~Io·•. 148 M,lk chocol~l". 878 M,lkfatI'CfTlOV'JI. ]49 MUlc · Fellille with 1I0n"y Mousscllne. 1069 - 7 1 M,ILer. M~ri<. 15 M,ndn!! will! knife. 116 ~lJne ... "'. 59. 43
M,,,.,,...I w:ller. 4 1 '\line5tron c.254 Minln,..x lifc51)Ie. 55 ,\I,n(. 122 lamb p.mid with. 3'15-46 rn:.oSl r~ck of limb wilh cclcri;,rc ""uce and. 343 - 44 MIni a nd Celeriac Sauce. 344 Mln l·Milk flan wilh O""nge W:u er.1062 _63 Minute Sleak OIJonal sc. 304-3 '\\ ''''poix. ISO. 181 C'JI':lIl1e!izi ng nf. U:l5-fl6 Min'" ikan Salad. 626
M ,~crs.
electric. 90 Modern /lOt_111ft. 1l;H1(So)""), 96 l>1oI..""""rs. for cok..-s. 99.\1oisI·hear cooking ,,""'hods. 172. 1 ~ S-~6
.\loisIu.... l.. ctma1 gCI'. 870 Yil\:ligreu". WY. ~ Molding foods. 1086-87 Molds. 27. 87 p:rl':. 796 MoIlu,ks. 456, 465-67 bi"Jlvcs. 456. 465-67 ceplulnpodl;. 456. 467 uni ..JI"" •. 456, 465 Monkfish. 460. 463 baked. with ha ron. 512-13 Monoun""lumred falS. 40 )'lomague. Sir John. 767 Mon te C r b lo Sandwich. 766.
m Mom"r au I",u,....,. 196 " Iom(.'rcy Jack cheese. 159-60 Montc,_u", •. 877 Montmorency cherries. 733 Montpelicr bune •. 211 Morel. $R6 roaSltod chop .... ,rh. ~nd W'o",n hean r.go.ll. 325 saUlt':-ed salmon w,th aSp""-Jllu~ and. S03
"".1
Morello c"",""". 7.n Monuy s;auce. 198 !>lo r nln8 Glory ~I uflimr . 899- 900 "'\on;atldl~. 807 .\k>lh". (1c.dmg) s;,ucc:s. 191. 196 .\klussc.800. 10#1. IOS1-32 chocoLrle. cla»ic. 1052 Ki""'h.lo6O r:lSpbeny.l069 roasItod red pepper. S]9 ",Imon. 819-20 Moussehne.209. 1041 buuercn!'IIl. 1013-14 honey, 107(1-7] of shrimp. ",,"pierr,,_' nf sole
Wilh.513- 14 Mous!iO' llne l'ore"",,,.I.'I. 79 1. 793-96 M07.7.:. re ll • . 155. lSI> tom"IO and as!,. r~ ~". ~~ Iad with f..",h. 700 -701
" Iumn n1<.1hud of lIlixing. 892-93
Mum"" ben)·.899 hlucL"'ny.892-93
1>r.ln.900 corn.9Ol blue. 902-3 EnglN! muffin ].o;,,·cs. 925-26 mom,nll gkwy. fI99-900 """r "",.m. 89<1 Murruk.11~. 763 Muhigraln O~te llre:ad. 9211 Mu>hroom(s), 586. 587 Clps. Slurr~-d, 8S4 duxdle<. 427-28. 619 (cnnel ~nd.ll~ Grccq~. 627-28 nuuns. 587
mort.'1. S86 r'OOSled "e~1 chop with. ~nd grttn bean rJ i/OUt. 323 s:o",£-n/ s;,lmon wid, .'p:""lIuS and. 503 porcini. 586 rosc",ary·ro;o'r~-d ""al chops wirh. 326-27
porr~bc!lJo.
S86
/>(rilled.6]9 grilled BBQ sandwich of. 00
fOClCda. n6 ro«5I<:
:rnd ""icy ""gelable bro!h. 620-21 1)f'O\'e~~"'. skillet of lobI;ter:uld. 531-32 SlI~d. w~nn. with grilled eggpl~nr and ,,-hire trumes.621_22 s;mc". ZOO. 203 shiirake. S86 a nd rabbit skew<"'i. 840 - 41 stir·fried ~Spar:Igus ,,·irh. fiJI wild du~elb. ,.."I':"-d fo;.: grJS on, wilh toasl <:Om Tans with Garlk Cream . 219 Mussels. 466 al,,·.. e~mo:d. with 1:lSSO. cI\iIe; and Iccks. 517 cle.ning and ~roing. 482 """III<.-d. wirh k.-eks and COrrulS.
,,'
Mus.taro mariruoled Loin of ''mison ro;I.>Ied with. 442_43 nc:w polato s;alad "ilh ddl ~nd.
'"
prep.>red. 138 ""'k of lamb with h:uelnUlS and. *1-45 SI ......,. salad of ah; rum St:3ttd Wilh 1 ~ ""n ,k:1.nd P'-1'I"-'" wilh whole·gr:tin. 7] I-I! Musrard gret:ns . 585 MU>lard ...·"',1".1 27 Muth . J ames J.. ~3j
Nail". 190. 2 15
N. nfua sauce. 198 Napa.5n "'"poleon ofShrlmp and Scallops. 5 19- 21 NilSIu n iums.685 Naliorul Assoctuion eX .\I".. Purveyors (NAMP). 2fIJ Nalion,,1 cuisine. ]0 Nauoru.1 Restaurant Associ.1tion. 5! Nali"" St-edsiSEARCII. 59i
Natural casings. 806 co..wcction. 169
N~lur.1
'"'"~t"r,
41 288 lamb. 355-%
Nalural
N~vann.
Na"e! oranges. 723 N"apoillan. 10')5 N«ks. pouluy. 382-83 N~..:u •.
70
Nett.llines. 733~ Yl Nes:ru"" (decline) 810Wlh
"
~.
N"ro. Emperor, IOS3 N"sdE, H" "'i. 8n N"111 liook QjCook;:r),. A (F~rnre.), 65
1149
IND,.:x /'1" ... Engla nd lJoikd I)Inn"r, 2~ N"... Englan d Styk Cla m
Cho"'der. 244 N""" Od""n soSry'" '" "ffalel~ Sa nd .... lch , 7110 - 81 New IMalO<:s. 634 /'1" ... PotalO Salad with ,\I"s~rd and DiLl. 715 N"WlOll ~pplc... 730 New York stt'ak. 299 New York-style cheesot=ke. 1064 I'>iadn (vilamin IJ, ). 42 Nih... m N!gln Zushl. 837-38 Noi><.1.1e, 279 Ix""", 209-10. 60? 1"01,;<:11"", or Lan.b with Garlic
s..uce, 356
cookies. spiced. 992 O'lIm" a l S. OU ! Ie ., er..am ,
976 - n DaIS. 646 Oblique CUIS. 110 Occup"I">n~1 Safety ami Heallh Act (OSHA). 33-34 O<=n pool. 463 OcIoptIS ••167 Offal. 299 Otl(s). 135--37. 874 fl,"ared. 136. 191. 216. ll? herl •• 228 lemon grass. 526-29 oIi>'e. 136 chkki"'" with I"mon "lid ,
610-11
(skim) milk. H9 Nonl".reils. 124 N<>n>lick coalings. 86
shrimp with g:orlic and. 521-22 sream<.'
Nonwhe.l nours, 866 Noodles. SI.'I1 aim l';lSIJ
""g(1able,40 in "inaigreue dressings.
Nonf~t
Asi;an. 652. 653 chilled Chi".,,.., n<Xl
6n be~n
Sl3orch. 6S4
buckwht'>l. 654 Chil\<.'St'. chilled s:ol.d. 6n rice. 654 Thai. Sliad. 504-5
wht'al. 653-54 No p;d caclUS s..\s.a. 502 - 3 Nopales.
596
Norl"'''kl Zus hl, 8 38 -39 Nomundy s:ouCt'. 199 NOf\\OIlk \'inLs. 26 NOlllla!. 1020 Nou.~>//ec"/s/,,,'. 7-8 No>"~.
461
NSF Internation~1 (NSf), 78 NUlm"!,. 127, 129 NUl oils. 136 N\ltr~swrt1.· (aspanaOle). 48
NUlIilion.36-57 chd and, 54-% conSUmt'f conrems about. 54, 55 essential nUlrients. 38-43 C"~rl)Oh.)·dr~ICS. 39-40 ddined. j8 f'l1s. 39. 4() rni".,ro.L•. 39. 43 1'roI";"". j9. 40-41 vitamins. 39. 41-42 W;tlef. 39. 41 food...,,-viet! op<'f'~lions and.
9-10 lIuideline< for. 43-"7 Fond Guide Pyr:t.mld. 45-47.
54 health O'lY'ni1.;tlion recomrnendl!lons. 43 - 4~ R\.'nXIlm"n.,kd O ...."l:I.ry ... lIow;",c<:s (KDAs), 45 inwe
allt'",al,""". "7-48 paek"Rt' lahding. 49-54 nUlritional infonn:ation. 53 nutrition labeling fOf ",Slau",nt "",nus. 54. 62 prod ...., claims. SO-53 product ido.'I1til'icalion. 49-50 l'>ulS. 132-3~
Oal bl"~n. 616 O~tmeal. 646
4&< Oliv~
oil See ""derOil(s) Olympia •. 466 Ornd« folded, 543 543-~
On""",. 587-8il chkken .... Ul~ ",ilh garlic. oo~;1 and. 402-4 dicing. 115 P<'arl. IIlned. 623 saUI('t!d cal""s' liver wilh. 329 Onion soup. French. 252-53 Ono (..... 1100). 463 OoIonIl't'a. 1"4 Op:ol bas,l. 120 O",nge(s). 722-23
duck 11·0""'8e. Hi mamwl.lIk. 749 SW~...1. 756 steamed scallops ",ilh lI'~. basil and. 519 S"II"'t'd zest md '"'UCt'. 412 Onlnge Chiffon Cak". 1005- 6 Or.utgc: Glaze. 1006 Iuice.• hrhnp p,y,l(h~-d ;1'1 ]('nK<". ,"""Ierne and. 522
Oral'll!" roughy, 461 Orderin]( I~-=hniljucs. 71 Oregano. 122 OrganIC (arming. ';0 Organil~lions. proI',--.sional. 1113-14 Or)j:an ",,,alS. 299. 3P-18 O riginal Tollllo~· (Mokie5.
969 0n0.653 0seI'" C",viar. 834 OSHA. :13-34
Osso S uco, 3 3 1 (hleoporosis. 52 O&lri<'l •. 3I!2 eJII\. 536
Oystc:rtfil.466
P.~1Iridl!". 435
fried.
,,,
"'"h
hcrbed c ...."'" fr~id""
OfI<"\inll. 481 ,",,,ce. U9 o,."'er knh....... 81 CyMe. m".hroom.
.
,
l':Im"Ri:oJlO.Rt'~1IO
(p;lnnes3n).
l'a", lcy. 123 d,.opping. III
eAA,536 Pa,;... ion fruits (Jlm ' lIl/llIku). 737 pur6:. IropiC".1 fru,' "'l1h. ':'SO P",;.la. 651-59 ~<'CO
A.i;an noodle.<. 65l. 653
S86
Oystc", Rockcfc Ucr. 517-18
chill...-d Chines<' noodl" Sliatl,
6n boihng. 6Sf1 l'JCific dan~•. 465 PACific cod. 459 "''''ific ~ten. 466 l'~cbge lahding. 49-54 nUlrilionJl mfomuuon. 53 nUlrilion bbeling fOf res:t~u.-.nt m~n"$.
brJ;,;.,d I"lbhit w,th. 448 -49 chlpotlt'.529-3O
01 organk:itlly 8ro"'n foods. ';0 product cbims. SO-53 product iden'if'C"Jlion. 49 -50 I':id:aging. ,",,·uum. 268 I':«ldleford. Ck-mcn .. "". 763 P~lllard . 279 Pain de p).I'<'11<'<'S. 157
P'lIlmie .... , 986 P;lnadas,789 ',,,,,,,kt's. 895-96 bunen",lk. 896 lMalo.665
P.ncc:na.809 I'lIn Coaling. 1006. 1006-~'m-dreSS<...J fish. 472 PlOn · Fried Ch kk"" ..,llh
P."
Gn vy, 4~ - 5 1".1I'I· 1' '';e tl Troul wit h Toasled
Ga rlic. 506- 7 P~n·f')~nR. 174 ~gg.•. 545-46
fi>h. 41!9 -90 1TI<:lI1.28I-1Q potal""".639-40 poult ry. 4-03--5 ~tdJfhlt.
Part.sea~ ~!\aMI
" 'llh Htt1
Vln.lgn",e.5 11 _ 12 Pansies. &lS P~nt\lpll<-'I\IC
.dd. 42
P:mlry eho:f (g"r
6" Pap;lin . 736 PalX'flt. 736-37 pineapple: papa)"d ""Isa, 7~1-52 Im}'.ki 5>lmoo with. 50S
Papnb.125
H-26
I'~rl>oil;ng.
[1"lun·st}le.652-53 ~hapes of. 653
lulx-s.653 nwcaroni, 6~ 1 and d .....,,,.,. 675 nUlnlioIu.l ,-~lucs 01, 654. 655 P<'llC. Wllh . hnmp. to"'alo and lan-d!lOn.673 _74 rn'fl'lnnll fresh. 654-57 oosic dou/(h, 655 fill ing. 656-57 ..~vioH. 657 roIlmg Jnd rullin~. 6<;6 purchasing, 654 storinl!. 6~4 "'h<-~I noodk",.653-54 P~"a Matian. 1102 Pa,le Se.:also SaUC<;.'(.) CUrT)'.
500
&I,,;r, 956, 961-63 I'~"c"r. I.oul •. 911 P:bleuri7..>tion. 148.5311 l':Isteurized proceSSt'd cheese. 161 l'a"iII"ge:. 102(1 l'astry(;e,t 943. 956-65 I."~nnol; alia Strilbna, 972-73 dUllghs. 9-~2-45
n°gc:tabk-s. 608
1'.rfail. 1055 I>arin!l knife. 81 l'aris·Brest.961
p;.,. 944
nJky and n~hn](
ll>e~ly.
943-«
"nd sj.aptnR for Cf1J';'~'
and (art shdls. 946-48
,wc:el.9«_45 <-cbir pasle. 956. 961-63 t~,sk.
791:1
1';lr"'ites.
[""h lom;tlO ""lICe fOf. 222
h~,;.ic
489-90
vcgeubklO. &J7 !'an wavy. 191. 212. 217 Pans. 86 C".k".1007 lootd.87 pOlO;.
~01.6~7
extruded,651
rihbons , 6~2
54. 62
PaeUa.5 15
Onion briMe. 236 Onion ptquet. 130-31 Onion rinp. bo-<:r.I".l1ered. 567
Or~ngc
l'lI.,.nlp Pum. 6 16 Pa",nips. 593 l':lt Mock. 71
Pari 1'1'OM;;""0 Pannenlie:r. Anl01ll""Au](u.
C"~\'''telh.
690
Okro..591 Old !lay .seasoning. 139 0)"&lr:t,48 OIi,·ds). 136 kaJ"''''la. a,;iago croslIni and. 848 SpanL'h. saut(·.:d halibut wilh Ihree.color peppe~ and.
French-style. 541 shrimp and avocado.
ipiced tende1-loin r:L. 426 OIl"""",. con""rtillJ! !l""nlS 10. 66 Qulhier, louIS, 8 o.-ens. 91-92 Oven sprint!. 917 OYt'r-e-..sy. 545 o.'er·hard. 545 O:erhe;>d broiler. 92 O,e:r-med,unt. 545 O",rrun, IOS3 O<-'O-bctO-'·Cl./"'arian. 5-4
962-63
gale~u
St. Iluroon',. 'T'O-':'2 linl.<'r tan. 973 "",ringue. 956. 963-65 b"h'
rommon,964 hard. 963--64 11.1i;a11. 964-65. 10-l1 lemon. p;.,. 974-75 Mlfl. 963
S"'L<&. 964 troubk:>hooting dun for. 96~ p:olmicrs.986 puff. 219. 956-61 prq>.:lrinjl.957-'i08 quick (bhlz). 957. 983-84 .hapinjl. 9S9-61
1150
INDHX
P"51fy Ch<1 (p.lIl.<JfcrI. II, 13 Pa!;lryC~m. 971-72. ]040. 1041. IO-fl. 1Q..l!-'ij P>SIr}' shells. li!k
""97-98. SOI-3 moO
P.il".
(1Ut'u,. 82t-U
... bhR. <'f1 1'-';1" ~ d>oux
s..:' ~.dJ;1l>
·.-o.
Paup;<~!c. ~ l:l
P:mplel"' s of Sole wll h
Mousseline ofSh rlml"
5 13- 14 I'a),s;lnnc. 113. 114
P<"del,.""733-34 r",sh. ~0<.I )'O)Iort ....... '1'. 259
134
5<1""". 2'16
P.....~l1.s). 73]-32 dried, 742 ~Ien". ~,nokcd
'"
p;I.>Ic
Pi~ I Clgarfl'" Ib uc~. 107S Pite Dough. 1101- 2 ml/."fi~'fllt'lft'_ $('(' Puff Pastry P.ite.~.... C1'(lt11t'. '"<)- , HOI-3 Pitr S p kc. 789- 90 I'~thogenk t""1.";a, 21 P.ill:>.""rie. a(l'o;.' ... 1020 1'<1I/sJ1,'r(p,,-,lry c"'--f), 11. 13 pmlssl,,,. ..oJ,,1 fK";;I/m,, It, ICare",,,), (,
I'"anu~'. ~nut
procnlun-for.5IW willed 'P"uch ""I:.td with. \l9 ~Ia<.! of ~hi lulU ...,3"-"11 ""ilh b,..,...,.s.., ami. wilh ,,-hole· grain mu.,,~nl sauce, 711_12 ""Il>ho. -"""mt-d bbck Iuss "1Ih.
dude.oo
",,"ten! haliool "ilh
SP:lnM oIh-.::s ~nd . ..sa P~.1 2S.12-
Pepp<-rmU1l. 122 PePP"fO"i .1'IO""' P<: p pcr St""k. 306 Perfor:lled ~poons. 79 l'~rfnn)o(.. ns. 25 l'.. rfumt-d shrimp consommo:. 253 I'l'rigouroine. 21)1
Peri!!Uell" """C". 204 I'crsill.<.Ie. lamh shank "'il h. 352 P<:rshnmon Filling. 982 P~fS;mmons. 72S
drit,d.742 Pe rsimmon Shoncakc Tan , 982 - 83 P''NOIl~1 d .. anliness. 29-30 ITn<. :182 1'~.50
fOk'
W"dS WlbnuO(" on_.
aU-I"
Po:s! rnanal./C'l"<"ll. 31-32 1'Qi10 S:!tKT. 224 1\.1.<". 1)~1Ut'!. lIT'
P<1.r:lk· 501<-. 463 pi-I. 24. 25
po:orlllo'd.980 prick~', -2;..:!6 sn:kd. -31 grilk-d. SJlad Wllh ~t>t-n,. b:Kvn ' ",ruiwt:lte, 710-11
"'-50
P""""'8. 6.u
>luffed I.>n-".asl 01". 450 <'Onlamin.:lIus. 2:8
P"arl onion-<, ~
Ph)"sic-~I
,ltbzc.-d. 623 Pt.-:lrlt>P;OC-d, 875 Pn,.". Poachnlln Mni Win ... 747
Pklo.pc:pp;o
P"-dS. 590
f""'h ,h"lIin~. 591
mow. 591
:!:lUI:>:.
139
I'"Ickkd \ '''Xt't:lbk Rolls. 851-52 Pkkl ..... 138 Picklong5pico:".l28 Pic<> do- 0.110 (1011""0 ""Isal. 214 P;.,(sl. 942-S6
chi<:ke" and, in bb,k tJ,.,:m
appltxr~nbcrry.
salle... 417 slir·frit:d. wilh <.Iri<:d ~hrimp.
"'I,'lCmblinjol.955-56
622 P"",n(s). 134 hllu<... brussds ~pr'Oll~' in. 609 rooki ..... bey. 9~>:i
PeoI n PI" wh h Oal",.. ,,1 Siom Icc Cream "nd Gl ltg<:. Qlr:omd SatKT. ')76-77
I'«2n Sticky
Hll n~,
')36
Pccorino Rom:mnch...,.;" . 160 !>t.-ain. HZ Peelc,-.....jIeI:>hk. ~ Pen (cunlt"bont-I, 467
Penll<.".653 Pcpc Pas!:> ... hh Shrin.p. T ')II"'IO
and Tarragon . 67)-74 1'eppt'r(~).
5""9-tr;!
bt-II. 125.348 ",-po.ioJnl. I?';
",-)'"""",. 125 hoI.~. Sre"IsoOlik>«) C'OUI;". chilk:d r<XL>I<-.l. 260 C'OUIi>. 'rah mc-~I llan "";Ih d,i,"'" and. ~17 """,,,-.c. ""'>1<"1.1.111') _eO coriander-...,,,,,
a",
Pibf I"JlIt",.650-51
951-52
bI~ckb~rry cobbler. 975-76 cherry. 953-54 chiffon. chocoblc. 1068-69
crt:am. basic.
m
crusts. 943-49 baking. 948-49 ba.ic pie dough. 944 crunlh. 949 naky an
')43-44 .h;iping. 946-48 s"",-",", dough. 944-45 filhngs.949-55 blocberry pit'. 952-53 cbiffon. 949. 955 rooked juice. 952
chops . .s66 h;ilf·hitch """hoIl fu tying
"'" h
PIne nll"'- 669-70 da"'ic.669 Pilaf Ill<1.ho
"'''h. 50S Pinnpp'" .... pa)'ll S"l~". 751 - 52 P",e nUl'. 134 brown rice pibf "",II. 669-70 Swiss d",ro wllh lemon "ntl.
1063- 64
Pbnl:llos (coolon).: b;r.n1n:1,). pb>tic rom"i"""'. S5 Pb,,, presemalion. 1082-'}5 food. 10fW-87 ""ninlt. 1085-116 mokl"'lt. 1086-87
storinll-.956 >lr~wbcrry.
f""h. 975
IrouhleshOOling chan fo.-.956 l'i~.381
choucroulC. 373 CUIS
01". .s6O-63
bell)',362 Boslon bull. 360-62 f...."h ham, 363 loin. 362-6.5 shouldo-r. 360 o.~lng.
367
marinalinlt. 2iO n..,wllions. sallteed willl r.-d pepper and cilrus. r l - -! rihs. a.roli"" har\x<:"ued. j68
""'"0')' fruil for. i46
s:.mI,,·icll filling. 764 ship",cm 01". 363 $fUrt:ril"". Chi""""'~.
'"
734
pn:p:ar-..,ion. 10115
It"nderloin. ~·rnarin:l.ed, rl Por k Loin with Prunes. 369-70 Poruh"Ua m""Ilrooms. )86 grilled. 619 gnlled BBQ Slloo..·id> of. on fOC'~ni3.
776
"",-"ed. wilh summer squ:I>b ~mI spic)' \"~ahll: bro!h.
620-21
chOO!iing. 10!!iI-8'9 <.IIl>llng. 1090-91 ItJrni>hing. 1091-93
PorI <.Ill Salut. 158 PorIJOfl comrol (P.C.I, 269 PorIlOIling ,j,:vice\;. 82 - 83 Portions. scmdaroa.ed. 72 Poruon Sl'"AI ... 82 PorIion scoops. 83
:!:IIlC~ deror-~Iion
PortIOn
proflt'r
pble. 1087-94 arnlnw~
food, on. 1re9-90
of. 1093-94
Piau .. ,.,.. IOIIH Plllnh.734 Poae h <"I.Illrea..<1 o r Chid" " wll h
Tarragnn Sao«. 406 - 7 Po:ach ed Egjp. 548 Po:ach ed Pcars. 980
Pooch"'K. 175. 176 cW.547-48 fhh.493-96
.h.llow. 494, 495 submersion. 493-94 01" pouhry. 405-7 .hellfish.49j Po' boy S:lmlwkh. 763
soft...... 11 crab. 526-Z7 Pod'. 589-91 Poim. Ft'fNn
ami ginger c-....... mel
365
l..-ntlerloin.36-
~s
=ro. 949. 954-55
cre~m
1"O:l-".
('".woulo:t. 3-3--4 in dt:in:ult.-rie. 808 - 9 chops. SlUffed. 3i2
ro;.I>I.
Pi>lachioo.. 134 piua. eggpbm ami ""n-dried 1001:110. 7lIS Plu;a Dollgh , ,);iO p11in (tlmp) dllmphnwo. 654 Pbin spoons. ""9
l'loiss(mleT(fl
I"I1lC<'".9i6-n pumpkin. 954-55
tx>ndess
10"'.364
628-29 Pink Jlt'pperrorru. 127 Pinlo bean", 590 Plpin!ll<-chni'llies. 1022-IS Pipp '" apple •. 730 Piqllam .,~"cc. 204 Pirate k1t1>C<'". 683 Pist:lch lo Citrus Ch ..-.:s.,c ·.. kc,
c"'-Jm.949-5O fru.l. 949. 950-52 fruil. bJ.ked. 952-54 pn:p:an:d or C1nned. 954 lemon menngue. 974-75 peeln. " 'ilh oolme:>1 stOOl icc
I'opp). sc.."I.ls. 1"17 Pon":ini mU>hroorn. )86 n:;>Sem:Iry-roasted , .....1 chops wilh.326-T Pork. 358-~4 Soe<>aIsoH:oro(.) buldk."nlt 01". 364-6""
...,
pumeM. 763
Phe-::I$lInt.435 I";s,,", d /a SI.t"X and apples.
Pnr flnaoclcr, 979 - 8\
393-9-1 sala<.!. wilh melon. 415-lIi
","",·n.
Swl."t'l. 5""9 I~.
c~of.381
>Qllab.381 grill~..t. wilh 1):1>.11 hun,...
Polrnta.667 ,,,,,,my. " 'ilh
"',1<.1 mushrooms.
667-68 CUllIng. 1096
Pollock. 459 PoI)1<1 ...~nUOl'OClhylene ne/lnnl. 96 PoI)"nsalUr~ted fall!, ~Q Pon"'j;i ....~nat<'S. 725 POnlo:s.73O-32 Pom pn'" hlanc. ~ Ponlll ",hole s.:u.lonl! '~Ifi_,h wnll I!in!l~'" ~ "d. 571
""OCt'.
.i,... conversion. 66. 67-68
PorI .all"". 203 Pasol .. (Ilominy: samp). 643 l'oia,wr(OOIlp .,a('on chen. II 1'01;110(....).634-41 anna. 640 baking. 637-39 boiling. 640-41
boulang<'n:.640 camlied S'W~~. 663-64 chi,e-all. 640 C01Iage fries. 666 d<'ep-frying. 640 donc~ 01". 637 dllcllOl>C. 640. 6-11 """",I\oped. 1086 french fries. 666
rreoh W;l1er $hrimp ""r.Ipped in.
524-25 grWlng 01". 636 gralin. 1086 )lrJhn (buphinoise. 6:18-39 introdoctlOlllo Ellrope. 581 lyonnai5e.639-4O n"'aly (,wrnyl. 636 Il<."w.6j4
nUlrilianal v~JIlt!S 01". 635 pan-frying. 639-40 bri>i ........... 640 purchasing. 636 purple. 634 red.6}1
1151
INDEX "'i,h "",Inu" and j(Of)(OtlJrola.
'"
roaS!inlt. 6r-39 ro..,i 5(~. R6s!ll'o!a loa
""lad
-.,
nt."W.
p"'.... ntallOn
.>auto~1Ilg.
639-40 si1ot.."'! rin lt.666 spicy ''''.....1. and d",.tnul Itr~t,n.
'"
f",. ,.
>I<"ak 666 Moring. 636-37 ''''",-""1.635 '·icl>y..soi .... (mid l)OIalo·it."Ck ",,,up). 245
,,".uy. 636
,<1, _ <14 PotalO Ch ..... d a' C h ....".., Hread .
,"
PolalO Galen ". 452 Polato.Gln ger Purb:. 666 - 67 Polato Gnocch l. 6n- 78 !'oCalO Pancak es. 665 PotaloSalad.7 1S--16 ro.'"f1!1ally h:07..ardous food>. n Pot ~. aunr lIutl>ie·~. :!87
,,,,>.8'
Itom:on. 85 Pouit.11<:. 200 Poullry. 376-429. s.-etlwChick<"n. Duck; ("000<\<"; GUIIll""~. Pigt'On: Tu.key: !!;lUIe.
broilinlt. 392-9-1 hu!(h..nns: of. 31'15-90 I>or>elcs.. I"..,.J.SI. jII8 bo.",,,,,,",, kit. 390 .·hick ... n kit. 390 cuning inro pK.""t$. 3&6-117 hal,"inll. 385-!16 ",upri'm ... or Jlrline l>reasl.
"'-w
ca,,,;nlt roo".-cl. 399-400 <"OInbi n",io" C<.)ok ing of. 407-10
fuie 11''''<. 3Il3 p l"'n"ne. 1'!04-~ gi:u.:lRl.s ul. 3112-83 gr:J.i,ion of.
tt."Chniq,-"",.
8-9
1'~1"\''''. -~
1'''........"<1
<.,·u,. Sj4
1'",-."<1 ,"UOk,e.o;. 967 p",""u", "ea""'-"<>I. 93 Prickly (><""~'" (C"~ctu. pc~[S; ba. 264 s.,.: .. /so 5plXific
1,.I"'e rih (If I",d au jus. fO. 011 label<. 50-53 I'rudu<1 kkntlfic-.'iun. 011 lobds. 49-50 l',odlK.1 bheh"g. s..... I'acbg<."" labdinlo( l'Toft:Sloiorutl cool"ng. defined. 4 1'Tof~'ioruhsm. 1-16 I>I>IOI"IC"~I b"ckllroond. 4 - 8 m modetn food -'<.'1Victo OJ>l"r.ltiom. 8 -13 cLl»ic k~chcn hrigad<-. 10-11 roruumel$. 10 J11O<.it,m kitchen I>rigack. new
1l-13 foods. 9
1\l~ I<"Ch~~.8-9
nu,n,ion and dit.-! <.:Or'ICI:OlS. 9-10 prof""..ional cmf. 13- 16 l1,,1 rugJni7..aliunoc. 1113 - 14 I'mfi'croles. 833_34. 961 1'['I>or,ng. 913. 916-17 I'l"<.l"Iciunn. K09 duck. with freoh ""'I1Ko. 825-26 grillffi .hnmp ""th ba,iI and. 859 I'roIcln<\). 39. 40-41 <'OOlluldrion of. 111 in fJoy".1I66 I'rovo!ont.-~.
378-79
nttk .• of. 382 - 383 nutritiorul ,"~I,-"", of. 383 p:m-fl)·ing. 403-5 po"""hinlt. 405-7 pure""",n!!. j84
397-400
for. 384 :os so.ndwich tillmg. 164 "",u'''ing.400-403 s:ofel)' "",".JSU....,.
~immt."rinlto
J'n:xr,-~lion
III<'Ul5
,,·hil .... 635 Y;lIlls. 63~ PolalO a n d ~":rlac: I'llree.
~,"g.
469
II"lk"
S,,,,.,.,.
ru.......""I. 6~1-~5
grilk."
Pr~"·n.
405-7
>loring. j84-II~ <[uffinl!. 396-91 'ru""inJ(. 39-1-96 PoohI)' I'rodu,"" Ilbpt'Cliun Act 09$7).3S-I P,,,,ndc"~k<". cI"""lc. 999 Pu",dcr~-cl sug ••• S69 Powde",d SugM Gla"l.C, 935
160
I'rol>l;'.73"l porlc loin Wilh, J69-?Q l'uddmg
Im:".od, 1044. 1046
""IXI:.".
Wllh """
440 - 42 Puffl'aslry. 219. 956-61. 958-59 ptep;lring. 957-58 quick (bh'7j. 957. 983-84 .h:oping. 959-61 bood..:....,..959_60 kuilk1.:....,;. 959. 960-61 vol_ au_,·~>U.~. 959-60 1'"lk"
gnlled hmb.-!lops ",'h .mok,.... mm and ,,';1<1 mu>hroom poknu and. I'tJnehil1K down. 913 Purch;binll'et:\tniquc>.71
m -50
"''''' chipotle. >outl>,,'''''cm II"lIed d""""" s;>.ndwich " ' "h a'"OC":Klo and. cilontro. 510. 852 frui' COUli< p:or.snip.616 passion fruil. 'ropic~1 fruIt wilh.
m
s.....
".
pota,o and cclt.-ri:oc. 343-44 666-67 soups. 232. 233. 240- ·11 'umip.628 w8~'ahl". ", sandwich 'p..,ad. pot~'o-g,nger.
>0,
Puree o r S I. 1I1 I't:a Soup. 24 1 Purifk-d w",er. 41 l'urpl<" pot",ocs. 634 l'u'n.faCliv<"s. 21
Quahog_. 46~ Quail. 4}5-36 "SK.536 llrilk..... Will> pot."u Io('Ik""Il<". artichoke "'edge:; ~nd I",!samic ....!.>pbemes. 451-52 Quality gr.>de>. 266 Qua"""'picc:s. 128 "",,",,"" -W Quiche. S41-~2 Quiche l)ough . 974 Quiche Lorr:o.ln~. S41 _42 Quick "",.ds. 1IiI6- 904 bunenn!lk p:mC"~kcs. w,l6
coun,l)' bis(·,ul.j. 1191 Cl"<"am ."K'<>nt."S.
891
griddl=~kes.
!,I9S-96 hl.l,h ",'ppi.,s (d<"Cp-fried cornbread). 902 I,bl> soda bread. 901 I"avcning a~~nts fo•. f!f!!I-W) Ie"'on 'e" hr<"ad. 903 - ~ mixi,,!; melhexl'. 8fI9-95 biscuit ''''''hoo. AiI9-91 crt:amll1g m",h"d. 1193-9'i muflin """hoo.1I92-93 muffins
berT)". 1199 hlud"'rT)".89! - 93 bI ..... rom.902-3 br4n.900
rom. 902 EnJll"h, 10:,,"<-;;. 92~-26 morninJ( glory. 1199 - 900 SOUr c ...... m. 894 5hortC'~kc<.
f....,.1>
Ii98
S!r~w""rT)".If9iI- 99
SOUr e..,..~m coff~"''''ke. 9O.f SI ....vsel 'opp,ng. ~ ,roobk~hnotinl! ch~n for. 896 zucchini bn..-~d. 901 Quick ..co"ki~ (instant) rice. 643 Quiclt..cookinJol WIS. 646 Quick Puff Pastry. 9'i1. 983 - 114 Qulck·ri;.c dl)' y... aSl. 909 Quine". 732 Quince J am.749 Qulnoo. Ikd Rice a n d L<: nlll Salad wllh Truffle V1nalsn:uc. 660_ 62
IbbbM . .j33~j-\. 435 b...41se<1. "'111> C:I\,l\eUi JU>I;i. ~ 48 -49
hlllc lw.-nng. Hoi grliled 10m of. ,ptrUch. r,,"1lnd and while b.oms.
,,·.h
446_411 Rabbit a nd S hiilake Skc ..·e .... 1140-4 1 Rabbl l Pllte e n Crofh e . 82 1- 22 Rabbi' Sa uce. 448 R.Jck of l~mJ,. 338. 3.W K:ock of I ...m b wilh Must:lrd and llazdnul$. 344_ 45 !!;ldiallon. 169-?Q "ffO()(). 269. ~99. 741 ~adicrhio. 684 r;SOIlu "ill>. 650 K:ldl.lw,. 593-94 ~Jf,. 2.lo6 R;t~out. 2811 R.J~lIS. 659 R.Jini<:. cherries. 732 ~aisln<. 727 jIOIckn.742 !!;lncidilY. 135 lbp.:. 5(... Monkfi.~h Ibsp/JerT)~ie:s) . -21 h:tI.s:tmi<".452 ""hd . 1013-74 ,rio of oorf>o:\$ "'i'h. 1073-75 , -.nilb I~}"". c:ok" " 'illl whi'e dl<><"Ola,e bull<"f"Cre:l.m. 1026-21 '·illClt"". 137 K:o.,;phc:rry Mousse. 1069 Ras phc:rry Sauce. 1056 Illt$phc:rry Syrup. 1027 Raspberry Vln algrelle. 703 f.l·fn.",.703 """dun ""I~d witl>. 696 Itala,ouJll". 62<1 Ra ta,o uille Crus led Salmon . 502
K;";'ClS.382 lUIS. m~n"lIenl<."m of. 32 R:l\iuli ~""1-CIlft"St.". in heri.>c<.l ,rc~m SJU<.·• .".672-73 p"'fXlrinj(. 657 R~w '''ga,. 868 K"a,h-in rt:frigemtOl'i. 93 Re~n"''' .
90
R•.'<..... "·inlt s,",xLrd,. 71 R.,cipe(.<).62-?Q "ions for. 66-68 <...... ""lrul.lIion. 69-10 :!&<"". 576 Kt...J <.I·Anjou (><""4<>1. 731 Kt..... Ddlcious appk..,.. 730 R....J gr:tpe$. 7n ~,.... kidney I)<:,JJ1.S. 590 R.-d Mountain IIOOt. 462 K....J onion. S81 R~'" O n ion Vl n a;gn:u e. 704 Red p"p,,)·as. 137 R,-cl pepper bUller. 212
CO
n"mt.'
/152 Nex!
INDEX
pew'" (com )
",,,,eed pork nlt'dollions With citrus ~od. j71-~2 lin! P"p .... r Cou l!.l. 1 13
chilkd rua.>lc-d, Z60 crab fll(,;l1 Ibn ....;Ih d,iv...." 527
~nd .
Ikd poIOIQe<, 654 Red PotalOe!l wllh Walnlllli a nd
Gorgom.ol:o.. 8H 11<:<1 r.Kli>ho. 593 Mc-d Rice. 66 1
K..u sails k1!Uce. 683 Rc-d "",,,,!Ie'" " -" 'c,mc\om . 729 It<:
OO'll"".
""JPilioo.
w"l1 mango kt"lchup. 77·' IIc-d Snapper e n "'dplilolC,
491- 93 Rc-d Sna p per Veraen,:.., 506 R..uUCIion . 196
Mcd ·WI"" Game Marl n .... e. 439 R<'fS.93 Regional cui>i...,. 10 Rcgtllar gr-.nubtal ~ulI"r. 868,
..
Rehsh.,s, 138. 19L. 214. !l1 ~!i
.
Rcmouiltagc', 1115
Rcrnkring. 241
chicken Slufk-d wilh spin~eh and. in s;,ffron s;,tlCe. 418 - 19 ItigatOlli. 653 Rigid wlw;k;. ""9 Rill",t..,.. SOl Rind. On ch~"t.")<..,.. 155 Ripe. def""'d. 72(1 Ri"!rs. IIQS Risono """ey.441-42 bu,K.,."UI :oqll~.h. SH wilh FOUl" Chee....s (,,/ Q,wllro F<m.wl!.8(). 650 wilh Radicchio (Ill R/l(lIccbto).
65<) wilh Smoked S:.lmon (al Stl/rllO'l/! AD"umklllo). 65
""d
'"
Repules. 435
Roast Goose ,,·I.h cabl»ge and
R""idual dkmK-~b. Z7-28 ,"",~Ur:1I1IS. 1\.,.01)' of, 4-5 Krtrogradallon of lurch. 883
Roo>ling. 174
App]e!!.414-1 5
Iisl,.485-116
Reuben Sandwich. 776-77
meal. 273-78
Rhea. 382 Mhub:",;), 72.6 br.iised, 755-56
poIa'o<:s. 637-39 poul'f)'.391-400 s111:Ufuh. 485-116
'..,geta!>I...... 605 ,'Il:lm,n ",,('mion ~nd. ~3 Roasl '-"1l: of Lamb with
•• 0
primall>o:ef, 296 veal. 316 I/.,bollavin ("II~11l111 11,).42 1{Kt,.643-45 :lI1Xl1io.644 b,,~1C si~. 648 ""~m:lIi. 644 brown. 6U. 64'1 e"n ven<"<.l.643 moking guiddin"". 644- 45 ,"-'lam (qui<:k ......""king). 643 Ionl!l-·V~in. 643 m<"<.lium"1U"~in. 643 pilaf brown. w~h pil\!;! nUl>. 669-70 cI~ssic.
669
r~-d.
quina •. and lemil s;,bd wi,h ,,,,ftle ~Inail.lrcl!e. 660-62 rilloIlO Mill""....,. 649-50 s:lffron. 670 '·illt"g>r. 131 whilc.643 wild. 644 el";II1I",1TY Muffing ~ l1d. 670-71 ro:l'! C.orn;"h 11""11: hen wilh ",umnll of. -II}
" 'ild J><'On. 644 Ricc ooo
)aI:oI"'00.346_41 Moa..~. Phe;l.~anl with Cognac and AI)., IC!l, 449 - 5(1 Roast Prime Rib of ~f Au Jus. 215 - 76 koas. Raock of Lamb w ith Mint and O:krlac Sa~.
343-44 ROOSI SlallOf1 chd (roUsse"ry. 11 Moast Turk"y with C h C!ll nUI
DresSing and Giblet Gnvy. 397 - 98 Roas' Veal loin , 327-18 Roberts. O>t.f Mieh:ld. 132 Raben .... ~, 193. 2O-i Mabus!;l coff~-.c be~ns. 139 Rock Combh IIlmt hen. 379 Rock ""a bass. S."/lllack ""~ bass RodenlS. "",n"I1"",...m of. 32 Rod-shaped lX1("1"ri:I, 21 Roll OJI. 110 Rolled cookio:~. 967 Rolled-In OOu!lhs. 9] I. 920-23
emis."""L'.921-23 RoiL; sof, yeaSi din""" 918-19 sundried 10""-'10. 926-27 Ronui"" leilun-. 663 brai>ed.6l9-j() culling. 687
Roman nJlb",ad (fOC"~eda). 929-30 Roman...style Free· Ra nge Chk~n, 419
RoIt>oe ~p"I"", 7j()
Rami.,.",. 86 Rondt:l!cs. 1Q9 Moot.<.591-9-I Roqudon. ] 58 dressing. 706-7 Roqurfon Dres~lng. 7(l6- 7 Rosenury. ] 23. ]29 grilled r.Kk 01 bmb wilh spicy bell pepper ",lIy and. 348 R""",mary _ Ro~ted Veal C hoP!' with l'orclnl M,,~ hrooms, 326 -27 R&d Potal""",. 640. 665-66 I"QaSI. duck "~Ih. 4] 1-1.3 s:lUla-u bmb 10111 wilh clM!rry confn and. 351 Rotc\I". 653 ROIis".:rie. 92 Rorwc",. (roaSi Slallon chef) . II Raund Ihh. 456. 458-63 bone ",ruau,", of. 45ruuing Sk;(k; from salmon-sized.
tJsm;.n. II Raux. 192-9-1 guidch""s for II>lng. 19-1 incol"por."'nll in,o a liquid. ]94 p"''"(">aring. 192 - 94 'ypn of. 192 Ro). 11 Icing, ]011. 1016-17, 1017 Rozin. £l"",bellI. Ij() Rubbel" sp,.. uw. 79 Ruby gr.pe(n,iL<. 722 Rumaki.84l dale and chorizo. 842 R"""", pota,oes, 634-35 Russi;ln ,;(!"1"\·1ce. 12 Rutaoog:lS. 594
Rr" b=d.
lish"
920
S.A.f.E.32
So"")'QIl. 104Q. 1O-l3-44 d""mp:lgne. 1044 S:.ccharin,48 SacherTorte. 1030-31 S",h~1.. 131 Safdr. Set' Food s:.fdy ,nd sani"lion SofelY "<juipo'II:nt. 94-95 S:iffron. ]28. 129 sauce. chICken Sluffed will! spin:.ch ~nd riron.1 eh.,.."" in. 418-19 Saffron Rice. 670 Sage. 123. 129 St. Pelcr's fhh (lohn Dory). 460 S:.1Id(.)_ 6110-89 arugub for. 664 bound. 695. 698-99 as :sandwich filling. 764 b",ad.7 17 ~""bmari. spicy. 525 -26 chicken. A,;"n, 714-15 chicory. 664 dlilled O,iOleSt' nood .... 6n diu"",), chicken. 699 cobb. 712 - ]3
COUn1ry-Myle 'ol11a'o.oo OJ<."mI),:r.71(1 CQU.SCOUs,716-17 cn.""3my ooIesl:Iw. 716 rurumbcr·)"ogun. 63Q d>r>delion for. 664 edible 110"'el"$ for. 68; fnlil. 695. 7(11 garli<: CfQU,OIl> for. 108 G........ k.7]3 gra-n.695-96 compo5ed. 695. 69":'-98 lo.-;sc
";naigr"1.\,,. "]0-11
herb! for, 665-86 !elIun-. 682-83 rn.lche (lamb·slcnuo:e). 6iI5 nulehinll :sal~d d","",ings and.
'95
m<-...du n. wi,h r.~pb,my villlllg .....1.'c.696 nuxed 1II:~I1. 626 nuui1ional val....s of. 686 poI:>lo.7I5-16 Wilh mUSIard ~nd diU. "",,'.
m prep,ring.687-89 poreha,lng IIrtXns. 686 raspbcny. lrio of sorbets ,,"iIh. I073-7S ",,~food.
102-3 sorrel for, 685 spinach. 685. 688 Wilted. with roosted P<"PJ'tf>, 7()9
SproulS for. 685 squab. "'ilh mcloo.125-26 Sloring.686-87 tabouH (bulgur wheal). 6"] Tlui ooo
ml17.o<;,,,,II ".7oo-701 nkolor b"~Il. Iamb .sa"",,,&<, ,,-M. 813_14 110,,;...,.1 frull. willi y<>gun dressing. -52 ,·egdabic. 695. 700 - 101 warm duck b"",SI. wilh A;i.:ln spkes and h.».elnu' vin;llgn:II". 42]-~2 wann lamb. ""h bourlxJn ,·in:1I8",1I ... 711 wann mu.hroom. "'i!h griIltd "3IIl,lanl and while ,rum"•. 621-22
wa,,,reress for. 685 S:.lad dre.... in!t<.). 68') - 70] blue c...."..,. 707 Ca~"Sa'.
704-5
for roonpooscd ""lids. 697
8""'" 1jQ
ma,ching salad g .....,"" and. 69'5 m~ronnai"". 691-93 ROiludon , 706-7 :sau,"" It''bK:he. 705 sun.<Jrio:d lO,nalO and In..J ~. .
"07-'
tal1:ll" sa~, 701:1 1housand ISland. 705-6 vinaiJ,:relle.690-91 balsamic.nd roas1ed prji(-. 704 bl-free r:lSpiJomy.;o3 lemo n . "Y()3-4 "'Sf'berry.703 red onion. 7M
1/53
IND£\' )~~u".
SalJ.d
!mp;'.:,,1 f",i! sabd Wilh.
'"
N I~ Is<:.
698
Sabd o f Ahl runa Seared wh h la~,.,nd" a n d Pcp!>'" ... llh WhoJc.(;r.oln MIb12rd Sauce. 7 11- 12 SaI~m:.Intkr (hroiler). 92 S;tla nn. 48 &II.". C06I rornroi and. 72 S,' hnon .461 ch illed POo1<:hed !'OIJ la
'0<-5 runin"
",-.,.~ks
from. 4n
"~!h ci l~nlm
;lloh.
""
r~IJlouJtI " cruSI"". W2 .""U l(,<-'
Wilh fresh,
"'-90
nop:.ol CiCl"". 502-3 pineapple p.1p.11". 751-52 Th~1 mdon. 227 10m"I~Io. 227 mmalO (1'1<:0 de Gallo). 214 &lit. 131- 32 sul",!i!utes for and .ltemativcs 10.48 SaIH:uring. 789. 807 Salt~od bo.m..... 152 S:unbuc•. .iC:l11ops and .tuinlp. 521 Samp (J'IOIIOIc: hominy). 643 Sandinll sUl!"r. 869
Sandwkh(.,,).700_fl5 chickffi JlCSlO and fet. cheese.
m do,;..·d.765-68
dub. 783 grilled "" Imon club with ci!;tn!t(I ..loIi. 784
roId.766-68 dc:q>-fned,766 eJoU>planc "nd sun-dried U>nU1O piWl.785
f"lafd. nS-79 ",rmOO.166 ",dlkd BBQ p()rtabella mushroom. on f<>C:Icci:l.
n6
",d ~pper burgt.'1' Wilh
""'ng<> ketchup. 7:'4 g!'OlJpl... wnh lemon rftnoula
m hamlllJl)C<.'r. n j
OrIe~ns-style muff~letu.
780 - 111 nu!ri!ional "al"e~ of. no open·faced. 766. 768 po' boy. 763
51,,,
cou lls. Couli., cr.. nhelT}'-or.lnge. fresh. 757 crc.lm. 197.659
1",,,,,-'<1.
reuben. n6-n roost bed ~nd bl"" chaoS<.". 7fKl sanilalio n for. 764 :;ou!hw""!cm grilkod ch~...,s<:. ",i!h chipode 1"-''''''' and
in.
dessen . S/... I)es.sen "'U",,," d ipping. tempur.l shdnlp ~nd ,·eg.,13bl.,s with. 569 duck .....,k. 4 12-13 duxdl.,... 221 emul.ified.691 C>p.1gnolo: (b.'Own 5;0""'). 201-4.
m finNting ledmiqueo; for. 196
fi,h.l39 flallOf,,<1 bulters. 191 flavored Oils. 1,36. 191. 216. 21? (0)'01. 209 fr~ngehco. chocolale hn.elnUl
m:Il'luis with. 1075-16 chick~
",,,,p.781-S2 steak. bbckcned, nS-76 "o:ggie wr~p. 781-83 wr.lpped . 765 Sandwkh bar. 769 Sandwich bread. while. 925 Sa n Francisco Sou rdouSh 8r'ead, 93 1- 32 Sanitary. euiso f ood s:lf.1Y and sam,a,ion S:lnsho I"'PI)<."'. ~!eamlod bI"ck ...~SS
wi'h .5 1!
'"
Sanu RO>;l plums. 734 Sardines. 460 Sashimi. 831> SaIU,,",ed falS, 40 S:ouct'(s). 191-228. S/.oc(lisoS:oJad d",ssln~s) Jlbuf"r~ .
SO)'.
goaloll
rbtooulade. 526-27 culT}'. Thai. 499- 500 dcro"uing plat." wllh. 1093-94 d<:nli·gbce. 202
av<><::ldo. m 5O\l!hWCSlt"f1\ gnlled
sorrel. 225 ,«)Uhi.'«." (modern). 1%
672-73 cn:oIe. 205
presenting ~nd g:lm,-,hlfl8.
S:lnlll Qaus (Chris!m" ,) mdons.
,,"oc:.do.848
grilk.'
New
>$-70
476-n
C~kCl;
hOI brown. T19 Mome Cri>!o. 166. 779 mullKkcker. 766-67
~76i1-69
]'l
bl"e cr:ob
spre:od. '"62-63 1i:~'ucI
soC15he1l cr:ab. 526-27
"1"'~'·bx .l107. 824
grilk:-d dub.
hero.. 763 history of. 161 hOi. 765-66 ingrt.'
201 allemande . 19S. 199-200 apriCO!. 843 au jus. 21S, 27S aulOl':l. 200 bart>ecue. l39. 221 hfam:llse. 206 I*dumd. 197-98.217 beurre blanc. 19J. 209-10. 217 citrus. n4 lobsler. 225 l>eurre rouge. 19 1. 209-10. 217 black bean. chicken and snow peas in, 417 lIoIognese. 223 I:Iordcbise.203 bourbon. 1066 broo:h.2lS c~mehne. 193 CJrdlnJI . 199 ederi.c. , IXIS! r~ek of lamb with mint and. 343-44 eha5,,;cur (H um~.. ·~ ,;;ouce). 203 dUI"""ubriand. 203 che .......,il. 203 choron.209 chuin<")'. sta, fruil. 228 compound bull<.... 211-12. 217 comempor.. ry.213-14
I!",hc. noiscues ofbmb "'i!h.
3~
prlic-oil. 659 g:lfl,lm. 193 gInger car~""'1. 977 grimrod. 209 herb oil. 228 hiMory of. 193 hoisin. 139 ttol l~ndo ise St'e uollandal"" horscr.ldi>h. apple. 226 Ilung.uian, 201 i''OI)'.201 jus I~. 203 le~dlng (moIhe,). 191. 196 bnon remo.ubd<:. madel r~ . 203
n2
~ I allaise.
209
,nan;ll:Ind de "in. 203 nugnonett .... 222 ~hl~rl:Iise. lOS lllOIlUy. 198 mou_Iine. Sre Moussehne mushroom. 200. 203 nage. 190.215 nan!ua . 196 NOfmandy. 199 orang.,. 4 12 O)'lll~".
139 p;on 1t""'Y. 191. 212. 217 p.1St:l.659 p<."'~nu1.
n6
J*rigI.M:ux. 204 pcs!o. 224 pickapePP'l. 139 plquan!. 204 J>oi'·I"'~d<:. 193. 204 ponzu . " 'hoIe siZ7Jing c.l!fi .• h wilh gin"..... and. 57 1 port, 203 pouleue. 200 pr~"·n. 523-24 ",b/)it.448 red·",ine th)·"",. 220 relish. 191. 21 4.217 roo,lcd garli~. 22(1 for roa,;!ed ",ealS. 27S Rob"n. 193. 204 saffron. chicken Sluffed "'illt spiruch and riCOU3 cheese m. 418-19 s;.ls:.o Sre S:ols:o "'3food. 659 small (compound). 191. 196
13H
Spani>h. 205 supreme . 196. 200-201 ulusco.l39 laillema.t.!-. 193 Iarr-.l~.
"""'SI
J>O
50'
a,Lients fur. 192-95 195 Ileum.' nlanil'. 195 com>Iarch. 194-95 h..;"on. 195 NUX. 192-9-1 !omlln. 20-1-6. 217 f""h. bak~-d ZIt I with. 675-16 f""h. for p;!,ta. 222 sun-<.iri"d .520-2 1 uIl<.'OOk<'d .659 us'ng.217_111 '-.. nilla ruSlaN. lo.lO-41. 1042 rurdko
alTO",I'O{~.
''''K<-"Ubk.6W '·eg<.1~h'"
JUke. 114_15 ,·doo,,'. 196-201. 213. 217 while win" lemon. sau,,,,=<1 "".1 sc-~ IIOJ><; with. 280-81 wholc·"r:>in mus!:IId. sabd of ahi lUna. * .red with bn'ndc, and P<:rr<-" wilh.711-12 won:e5l"rslure. 139 Sauce chaud,froiod. 1!O9-1 1 m:l)'Oflnai>e. 810 Sallce Grrmd 1"'..~'r. 204 S~IJCC Grlblche, 70 5 Sa"ce "'"re ("lOlhcr s;luce). 191.
.", s6 .sauce poi. fI6 S.uce pan.
Salle;".,. (saut ... >!alinn chef). II Sausage(s). ~_? buckwhe~1 CR."...' wilh apple >!uffin!! ~nd. 554-55 and ehkkcn ~ulnbo. 251-58 compo"elll> of. R06 Iwlian ankhokcs '!Urr~-d wilh. 625 -26 Sf>",y.823 !;tmb. wllh mco/or be~n s:lbd. 1113-14 prep'Jring. 806-" lurkey. Te,,·.\lex. 822 ~23 ')'pes of. 80S Sau!.xd c~lvc)' liver wilh onions.
'"
SaUl(:(:d C h ick" " l.h·crs. 417 SaUl£-ed C h lcke" wllh Ke"lucic)' Bourbon. 420 Sa U!eed l>uck u,·..... canape wilh candird Rhubarb. 849 Sau,eed fo le G....". on \l'Ud .\Iu..~hroom
Du"elJc8
with Toasted Rrioche.
427 - 28 Sam £-ed Ilall b1l1 wllh T h r<:(."Co lor I.... ppcrs a nd S panish Oli'·<$. 488 Saula... lamb LOin " ' ilh Sru ffrd M6stl f'olatOCl< and Clle")' (;(lu li!. 351 Sauteed I'oOrk ) lrdalUollS w i,h Ked I'<::ppcr and Cilrus, 37 1- 72
1154
INDEX
Saulttd Sa lmon ,,'1, /0 ASp;ilngus and Mortis, 50} Sautttd V(::I.I Scallops wllh CaIvado8.J28 Sa u\{'Cd \h l Scallops wl, 1o While: Wine ""'o>on Sauer. 280 _ 81 Sau[i-Ing. 174
"AAS.542-45 fbh.
~1I7-W)
fnoils.
~4~-46
Ii•..,. Iobs/",,". 479 n .....~I . ?78-tH
639-40 pouh,)',400-403 ~hdlfish, 4117-89 ""I!~~"bl,,-<. 606-7
116
S3'~)ry Frnh fo r KO...~1 l'ork . 746 Savory IIIPI"'" Mas"". 10')1 Sc-~I"s. 112
:.c-JlllOIls. SI!8 Scallop>, 467 ddin~>(j,
~nd.
519-21
'H9
US
gr.>dmg of. 470-71
Shoukk..,.
loI);>1t'1(~).
Scramhk
~~_~1
<;Crod, 4~9 1><'. b"", Chil" ..", Will<--d, wilh ;Lna,.>.i I,.,an 'lew and n"pal
C".octlls s"I"", 500-502 "'OIh IX"<.'I vin:oillrem...
5 11- 12 anti •. ,Imnn le,fi"" witl, ;p",,,ch .n,,1 !>:osil. 816-17 Sea IIa,;s wh h 1·",,1 Ctlrry Sa".,., and Wok "ellclables. 498_S00
St., (dso I'''h,
~hdlfhh
""uce<,6W 702 _ 3
&'31'01>...., •.II",} ~",11.131
W:l>O/lmjol<".,)
for d.:cp-fl)"IlJi.. S63 t1di.ntod. 120 in f~nll·~L'. 7119-90 for
Shon~"'lllg.
l¢lhng. 483 -85
crusI~ct."~"".
456. 467_~
IMp<'l"IlO/l of. 4"'0-71
Sc:af~s..l:ad,
fn;:;h str~wl.k:1T)'. II')fl tan crust. 982-8j
IOOS
!)Cumtar, ij] :.rom.... $0
4~7.
"'''''I!,
fre;.h""", of. 471
(So)"t"r),
p;L"·S\.·; ......u.
.191-93 storing, ·173_74 ~t"'<1u'" and m"scle C
I"" l'ropk, " '17
'"
Scampi. 469 Scbill;"S CooI«.·,yfor
s""fOO<J.
497-96 l.. kcs. 553 blue. "'illl fn;:;h 5llb.l. 48')-90 Thai. 528-29 cr:ob meal nan wilh red PCPPC' ooulis ~nd chiVe>, 527 cr:oyfuh rtouffi<e. 532
st<.'~min,.,
all'p"<Jl"lI!i<',8"'3 ,-""ulslfied. 874 SOOn'wain fke. 643 Shoo loin of Ix'd. 197 Short <.>r
Scallops and Sh rimp SlImh uca.
G..'Il)',
~26-17
t:quipmem. SO. SI Sharpening knivcs. 107 Shell , c!!Jot, 536 She llfish. 454-5.33 b.'lking.4115-86 broiling, 483-85 C"~ lamari ("tuitl). 467 ' p icy s.'l l.d , 525-26 d1l 1ied pl~1!c,. 514 cbnu I."J~ino, 515-16 or>t'nmg. 480-SI l"OlllbuuUon cooking mt:Ihods.
_'>l<-':l.m.:d, with lCi"II<-..... 1=,. Jnd
Sctm.'lllp.
m-96
~harpening
Savory. 123
or:Ill}tC.
C<.le>I <:OIurol and. -2 Se«ame .....-tIs. 128 SailIm ", S,,·o rd fis h . SOlI Sn>k h e.533 s..,wu*, .... '·lar. 8.\4 Sfoglla. 6S4 Sh:J1101 bu.n:r. 212 Shalloc Currr O il. 216 Shallots. S87. ')88 mmcing. 116
SI""b.462
Sau tcrne. ~hri"'p poochffi in OI'lIn)l<' luke, lIin).:", .nd, 522 :.aut'; ."~lion d",f (Sill"/"", II Sm,WII,." 116
2""'9 .\'apok'On of shnmp
m:.t>I"'II. "",5-!16 a' ""ndwkh filhng. ~64 saulc,ing. 461-89 scallop>. 467 Napo/nln of nlCd. with lIinger. I... ~i l ~nd orAng... 5 19 .... lChe. 533 sIlnmp, $(<e Shrimp .imn""inl.C. 496-9,oIi>hell 'I"~h, po' I",)' ""nd,,·ich.
~hank.
f>O'~[oe>.
Smlloir,
S"mis"t't."t chocolalc. 8?8
:>cr.·icc. 10&1
7jl )trilk:d. ",lid .... ,lh ,11l'fry hamn ,·inai)tn.11,·.7 10-ll s....,:t1 I>;lnk~. W~ s..-.xL~. 128. ')89-91 Sekhe. S.B :>0,.".1011. 1171\ :>o.:lf.ri,inl! lIour.II6l, Sehcr "';lIcr. 41 Scmi:\ I" c-~nc. (,1 :>..:mif......!di. 1O~2. IO~~
463.
4611-~
hoJ<"t~ wilh ChlpOtl .. Ileum: UI~ nc.
529-30 ~
I·Americai ....". 530-31 ",mo";ng m..~t from shell. -IS( "Iuteiflg he. 479 , kUla of. a nd mushrooms prov<.'n~.le, 53 1-32 and turiJot, galaminc of. IlZO-21 moliu~ks. 4~.
465 - 67 hl'·~kes, 4~. 465-67 l'll'h:doPl>:b. 4~. 467
uni",h·e>. 4~. 465 mussels. 466 ak·,sl"~''''''tI. with tasso. chile~ ~nd k~k>. 51 d<"~ninll.nd dd>ear and
lamb. '37
pork. 361 \'Cal. 314 Sllrimp.469 and hI ..... <'Ofn lamale>. 8~-59 hU1lcdlYIllJ\. -I?l:I COI,,n";. pe,funk'tl, 253 t1,ied. stir.fri<"
'"
mOll>.Scline "f. l'aupk'u ", of sole " ·nll .513- 14 Napok'Oll 0/', and scallop'. 519-21 prt"hnll and ks lempur.l. and d,ppmg S68 Sh rimp aDd A,·ocado O mclel.
"'lK't:.
139
II1".Iwn.469 lI,ilI<:
purcha,inj(,472-73
Sui..,;n. ?,p Skatc. 463 Skillet c-..." iron. 86 tihinll.92-93 Skillet of I.obstcr and M"s hroom~
P rove"pJe. ~3 1 -3 l Sk ill 0/' profe"sio",,1 elld'. 14 Skl1nm"r. S8 Sku"",;ng. of s\oo:;k. IH2 Skim (nonfat) n"lk. 149 Slashing. 917 Slirer. SI. 88-89 Slicing with knif... 109-10 S~ppcr Iobst"r, 469 Sklllro spooru. 79 Slurry. 195 Snul1 (compound) saures, 191. 196 Smoked Co,n Polenta. }49-~ S mokc:d Co,n Puddifl3, 441 S moked Duck a Dd Fok GtaS Galantine On " P\"at Galen e.8 Il - I' Sonokc:d Salmo n with Seared Tun ... 8Z4-ZS Smok<"s , 466 Soda ""~tc-<. 4 1
Sodium, h)'penension and. 52 Sodium hiC"dri)(Kt:ue. 888 M>f't--cook<"
Crab Po' I\oy Sa"d,,·ich . ~z6 - 17
Soft.~hdJ
Soft wal.".. 41 Sof1 \ 'CllS1 Din"". Rolls. 9 18-19 ~.463-64
'Y"'r. \074 100 of, with r.lSph<:rry ",,1>f)Ihu'" mnl .. 1170
Sh rhn l' erun'ple. 8S6 -57 Sh ri mp I'o:l<:hc:d In Onongc J u l«. Gln",er and Sa "t.. 'n .... 522 Sh rimp w h h Q lh'c 011 aDd Garlic .. S2 1- 22 ~Klc nu,klnJ\. 1021
saUl·C.
'luck. 182 Sim p le R"n .. rc....,m. 10 11_12 Sm'ple C"~rboh)x1M<'S, 39 Simplo:sse. 48 Slmplc S)''''p5. 8"'1 Sinclair. Upton, 26"' Sinp..·XWlg b:.okllljot powdt:<, I'l:Jl Smk, Ih .......
Sifting. RIll Silk tofu. 592 Silver (colli.» 461 fI6 SiI"er Simmering. 175, 176
~·st .. ",.
I"dl.l,51') pan·fryinjot.489-90 poa chin l!,493
shellfISh. 496-9""
!'io.·\"n.87-1!8
S,O -44 S hrimp RI ..... ue. 242 - 43
466 fntod. with Ix..t>cd cn!me fraid..:. SIS opcning, 481 kockef.... lief.517-18
meal. 283-&1 1>l>\l111)-. 405- ~
filleti of. bon"" f"",me. -I'J6 p>Uplt.~lCS of. "'i1h ntOU"",I,,,,, ~ shrimp. 513-14 Solid pack I."~M, 741 .\omdtt,r(wi"" S1ev.·~rd). 12 S"I'j"lfcss;tI;l. 807 So.hc:t{s). 1~2, 1055 aj"lficot. 10'74 gr~rd",jt 1055 Icmon. 1073 str~",I",ny. 1074
516 nulnliorul ,,,lIue of. 469 - 70
~";Im>II>.
i 48 gro'ns.648
(",ilS.
.-.1,,......
cJ,\ll'.
'547
""If""".
s.,.,:!.
Sorrel.
~5
INDEX
in "",lads. 685 .501'1'<;1SaUCIt. 225 Soul"-,,, (m.xk,m) ..... UCIt. I9iI
Soufllb. 1().l6-4choool.".,.1047 ""Jrnl. 1067-68 wits JIld dk"lld.ar. 666 SouP(~). 2j()-60 l>is<:llIO, HZ.H3. ~42-H .ltnmp. 212_43 ch...dd.ar and k.... k. 155 rnkkt'fl. wl,h "",,1.0 halls. 251-52 <'fllcken and !CInoho.
""""""I.IC
257-SII
cho,,·
25.'1-59 chilbJ cherty. 2·16 chl lle'll rtY.ISle"" ..,.j P"Pper c'OUlis. 260 fn.."h p<.":lch a nd yo!!un. 259 gazp" chu. 2·11 ,·khys.so<sc (cold pOwl ... k.... k "",p). 245 con..,OU\I""". 2.R 236-$11
b"d.Zr das,,;ic. 2~8 double. 236 pt'Ifumt:d ,;homp. 253 cream eX bnx"oli. 239-40 cull.ses, 2.B f..scoffier's cb'<.
"e.,f.
minc~lronc. 2S4 """';.,.,. 249 soulhwe .. em hlac'k l>O:dn. 2S6 spell. 255-S6 Ihick.238_41 ,dlUSl in!! ron.islency of. 240-·11 cre~'" sou l~<. 232 , 2jj. 2j11-40 pu n ...' sou ps. 232. 2.H. 24(1-41 '·cl!<'l~ble. l.U. 234-35 ,·c101.1tc.<. 233 wild mU ..,hl'QOlll, willI fok IIr.i$.
250-~1
wild m""hrooms ~nd '·e~J. 251 Soup Slation chef (fJOI'W·I'J. II Sou. 151 I"'JIS<'d anlelupc m. 4'13-41 imilalion. ISO Sou. CR a m eoff'-'ft-"IIk" . 904 Sour C ream M\lffin~, 89~ Souroough hn.-.&:in Fr:lIlli>«>. 931-32 Sourdough Siane r, 9 10, 93Z Sous
"""m.
",
South """,' e rn Grllkd Ch c....,.., S ~ n dw kh ... h h Ch lpotk !'Urn: a n d Avocado. 777 Southwcste rn Gr ille d C h icke n Wrd l' , 111 1- 112 SoUlil"'''Si c r n Scram b led I:IIIIS wit h G n :" n Chile ~ nd Chor l,.". 550 So)'er. AI"x;'. 96-97
Soy MowSC!I Vln a igRu e . 505 Soy .aure. 13A Sp ""ttk. 678 Spajtht11i.652 ~p"gh"1" >
"",,,ee.!
~nd.
488
Sp,m.,h .... IK'<-". 2O'j Spalulas.79 !>pcamum. 122 Spdt. 255 - 56 Sp;"" bknds. 128 Sp iced O;lOt"",;o1Coo kics. 992 Sp k-cd o..trich Te n d e rlolo, 426 Spk.".. 120. 124_28. 129 - $0 )('Im"lun!! pi"t:S ",i!!l. 1092 hL"ory of. 124 p.llC:.7119-90 Sl,lcy Ca la m ari Sa la d , 52 5- 26 Sp icy U."1 [1:" , Sausa~. 8 23 Sp icy S...e e tl'Qlalo a nd C h esl nUl Gr.llln . 664 Sp icy \'e}/C. a b le Orol h . 620- 2 1 Spider. 88 Spidt.-t (,;now) cr...... 46/,L Spinach, 585 ~hkken stuffed ... ilh ";COI.I. chc'eSe ~nd. in $;tffron ""'1K'<-'.418-19 feuucd"". 652 grilk'llloln eX rJbbil willl fenne!. "Ilile bcall> ~nd. 446-48 n...."..,.ing midrib from. 688
...1ad.685
,,,,It..'ll. ",,,h rtY.I>lcd peppt:fS, "09
""\lIIon .nd.>C"J 00.. ICIT1ne "'IIh 00",1 and. 816-11 Sp inac:h and An k h o ke Di p . 85(1 - 5 1 Sp ln ""h Au Gratin . 6 18 :.piny 10hsl<:flI. 469 Spi"~, 653 Spirilla. 21 :'p1il p"a soup. pun.... of. 241
m.
Spong<.oc, kcs , 1002-3 d:,~,ic. 1002-3 Sponllc ",clhod. 9 11. 912- 13 Spooos. Iypes of. 79, 82 Spon,.".2 1 Spn:ads ",,,,aph. 831 for <;1nd"'i<:l,,,-<. 762-63 I)lack IxJ n. 182 S pring Ko lls . 8~7_ 58 Spring W'Jlcr. 41 Spri.:(Coo kIQ.99 1- 92 Sproul>. for "",lads. 685 Spun sugar. 1020 Squ:lh.3iB jVilled. WJlh OO,il bun.".. 393-9"1 Sq uab S:t l:td ... llh ) Ido n . 425 - 26 Squ~.'hles). 583-Si hUllernUI. haked. 60S ""mll>cr. ro:t:;led port.bdl:l mu.hl'QOll' "'ilh spicy ,',*",;IOI)le broth a!>d. 620-2] Squa'" bl...... 6115 SqU"1 iob.>Ie., 469 SquId. $(,,, Dla"",ri ("Iainl"" ~t~.... 1 cook""Jrc. 1'14 $Ialing. flR3
..ot''''.
~!.Ik>. 'W~-96
Stan
SU!>dJroi1.o:.'ll """pt:. 62-63 SUr>d:trd pOrtion,,;. SUph infeClions. 25 SUpies. 118-4~ OOI"ltlet g.m'l. 13(l-31 coff...... I39-43 rondirnenl,,\. 120. 138-39 hetbs. 120-23. 129-3(l nuts, 132-35 oils, 135-37 s:.d,,,,. 131 "",II. 131-32 ~f>ic" blend>. I Z6 slJ'C"". 120. ]24-28. L!9-3(l lea, 14j-4~ ,·incg""'. 131-$11 Sur ani,., (Chi"""" .lOi"",). 124 S....... h(es) ge!atioi7.3lion of, 111. H!j2 rcllOjjrJOI:" ""s. 6j6 Sla. Fruit Ch utn"y. 228 I"'ked n,'ll.lionary equlpmenl. 31 S"'ion <:hd'. (clxfs ,Ie P,.,1/,,). II
n
'n' bulblo. grilled. 449 fish.
~13
minute. DijOfl:li"", j04_~ Ne'" York. CUtting from honclc.<5 Mrip loin. 299 pepper. 306 sandv;ich. bbckeneU. 175-76 SWISS. 306-7 T·boo".3(lZ St...Jk ffie,;. 666 Sleamcd 6 lack
"""' ~
w!lh Slons ho
hpper. 512 Stc3mcd milk. 142 St ~a med ) lu "",,1s ... llh Lct<M 3nd Ca rrots, 5 16 SIt 3m cd Sa lmo n w hh u: n>on a nd Oil"" 0 11. 492 S.ea m~"
.ruos;I~
""30. 501
~.,..
Irish bmb. 353-54 :emuoology for. 28M ""hlte. 1if7. 290 Slewing. 1""7 ""'31.287-90 0( poultry • .fOjj-IO •~1.I)I..,.. 6 12-14 Sid-frozen dessens ("''''ifn.-ddi).
1052. 1055 Sli'I.frying nlt.1hod. 639 Sills. Soulhcm. 85 SlUOIl chccsc. 158 Slir. Frloo Ni pa ragu~ wll h Sh illa kc: Mus h r<>O m ~,
"',
1155
Stlr ·Fr!cd Snow I'e>.li " 'ilh Dried S hrimp. 622 Sti",f1)'lnlC- 1-,1 SlImng. 881 .!>locke.). 180-91 hrown. 100. IIIS-tr' coun bouillon. 180. 189-90
Ii"". lRO. 1$11-118
Itl:lzc. 190-9] inll,,-'lliems for. 100-82 nagt'. 190. 215 prJwn.524 pnncipltos ~ m"""'g. 182- 83 lroubk-.lK>Olinl! chan for. 191 '·e&<1abl". IH9 wh,t". 100. 11'14 $lock pul. 86 Stone rJg",8_9
<:0>1 conlrol , nd. 71 " ;,"min wn~"'''' r.lIi()r)< "nd. 43 Slor~ )(~ <:nnt,i nenl. 90 SiltY." .... ,I-iron, 8 Slo>'" .ops. 91 StrJ ililu (c.,.k ~) 'p",ula, 79 Slraillh. douJllt """hod. 91 L 912 Slrdight 10ow;. 79 Strainc~> 87-S!! Slr:>ining. 196
eX Slock. 18!-83 SlrJwberr>es. T.! I
S' r" ... b"rry N~ po"""n . 985 Slra ...""rry Sorbet. 1014 $I...". 25 S11l1J1OCocc,u/acus. 151 Slnpwcocc'u/Iwrnwpb,/,,,,- lSI SI R~I To pp in g. 895 SlIip<.'ll l)"s,,;.~)S Strudel,. 144 Slu ff~'ll " R :IS' o f Ph "asanl. 4 50 SlUff~"
specific 11'<'(' /.< Sul"lil uIC', inll'~'llic nl . 47-48 Suer...",. 861 <.,.",mctization of. 11 1 SUII"J(s). 40. 867-69 brown, 869, 1020 C"JrJmcliling. 111. 872. 883 rooking. tr'1 -73
('Ubc. A69 lIl:ize. basic. 1016 hiSlory eX. 868 n>:onuf:lduring eX. 868 powdernl or confct'liooo'r's. 869 pult..'ll,I020 rJ"'. 868
n:fincd (l:Ib'<'I. 866 rcRUb. gnnubled. 868. 869 ",,!>dIng. 869 spun. 1010 :lUperfinc or C"~Slor. 869 .urbm:odo ([)•.'fTIl'r.011I supr). 868 .
A69 Sugar beet. 861 ~ujlJr "''''', 861 Sugar Coo kl.".. 990 - 9 1 Suga ..."j Oran ge Zes. ~ n d Orange S~uce. 4 12 SUII''' <),n,f'S. 871 Sulfun,11 mob ,s.; ..,. 87(1
1156 SuI!anas,7ET Sunlln.:....
"""01)'.
wor1c. }I 123
Sum"""" :;qua;.h, SSl roaSlro pOr'IJhdla llmoJlI'Qom ",,.h 'pic)' wllfiable broIh and. 6lO-ll Summe r Vqel:lblal"" ilh Ta rngon AIoLl, 6 17- 111
SlinWe. 1055 Sund""'" Fruit Compo'" w it h Ilo ney I,,", CRam, 1072 Sun-[trlcd Tomato and 8 asil Alal!.707 _11 Su ndricd To m:Uo Ho lb . 92 6- 27 Su n -I>r lc:d Tom"to Sauce. 520- 21 SUn"...u~ V.~<.."ulf.II'" Kl, 48 Sunn)'·,i\k up. 545
Superfine
su~r.
S69
Sup ri! me Sauct:. 1911. 200 _ 20 1 Surf
""'n», ·1{)5
Smi",;, 459 Sushi. 5<>c Zush l (Sus hi Ric,,) S"'catlng, 1&1 S""o..-d ls h Mea tba lls, 84 1
5"'<:<-1 bas,l. 120 5w<....1hrNd.•. 317. 322
d,-aninl! and P"'''''''I;. 322 S~ lb,..,:uls Grc:n o b k , :U O Sweet cht:frie>. 732-33 Swrtl ehocolate, 878 SWt'<.1 cicd)' (chervil), 121. 129 S"~I Cri!pb. 5" 9
5"-«1 Dough. 945
S"·...:.1cnro ~n""" m,lk. ISO SWCelenef(s).869-71
,,,
Taboul. ( Bulgur ..... heal) Salad, rallll'"uwio> ""<>Ce, 193 T~il\c1...,m (Guillaume T""l), 193 T.m ..... 87 Tangenl'l.723 TJn"",h~1. K"-~y.
9-l3-44 >!u(lin!j;.946-411 swert dougl>. 9-44 - 45 fillings, 949-55 dllffoo. 949. 955 cook<'
crnm.9-l9-50
"ndidal.48 rom syrup, 870
"""". ""
hrgroscopic. 870 ouple s)'rup. 870
molas...·<. 1170 numlioful ...~Iu"" of, 870-71 $",,,<-1. la .. ",1 O",y), 121 S".......1. marjor:lm. 122 S..' <:(:I Ora ng<: ~I "rm"bde, 75t1 Swrtl pePPCI'S. 579 Sw~"'t poIJtOt:s. 6}S Swimming method of d"'CI,.frying.
""
Swin!! CQOk, II Swi>s chartl. S85 Swiss Ch~rd w ith U, mon and l'lnc NUII!i, 62t1 - 19 Swiss n..,ringuc.<. 9M Swis.< Sleak. 306-7 Swonl!;'h. 46z bbcke<><-'(\. Wilh nSono ,~k~.
""-8
".."""l1Ie. SOB S)'rul'l)) chocolate. 1057 OIl,,"1., 1074 sUlPr,671
cusurtl. 949. 954-55 frull . 949. 950-52 (",it. h:lk<'
persimmon short'dke. 982-83 Moong.956 troubk-,shooling ch~" for. 956 1'as,;o, ~1~'Me,med mu_Is with chiles. h"'ks ,nd, 517 Ta."e. 14-15 T· Kone Sl c~k, 302 ']"a , 143-45 brewing. 144 Ibvors of, 144 h,scor,' of. 145 S<'f\'ing, 14A t)'pe~ of, 143-44 (brolh). 215 Tecl>noIogies. nL"", 8-9 T.-II"" (poI~1etr.l.nUCl"1h and, lZ-l!> Tenlpel"'~lun:
1'".
po
Tal>k (Warn. 1'j(J Table (cllilnary) s:lll, 131 1),b/o'db61e, 61 Tabl~ (n:r" ....:d) su)l~r, 86A Tabid huffel, 1100
268. 381
TapK><" shrimp. IC>m:lIO and. 673--74 s:lU«, poached br....w of chkk",n wilh.406-7 T.......Son ""i., lI. 617 IS Ta rta r Sauce. 708
j6~
1"""'Nn:lri",,,~-d. 371 Terly;o kl Sl&hno n wIth Pineapple-Papa).,. Sals.:o.
50' Terri<><-1s),797-801 liver,817-U:! sahnon ami ""'" bass. Wilh ,pina~h and b;Jsi!. 816-17
"ell"'labk, SUI ;n hriodl<', 8H-15 T...,.,ne (n!Old). 798 T~ · )l ac Tnrkey S~u~~ge. tl21 - 2j Thai CI"'Jh Olk". 528- 29 Th~1 Curry S~uc.:, 499- 500 Th~i Melo" Sl&b~. 227 Th~i N--alr Salad. 504 - 5 Theme. 1098 'J'hcrmometcrs, 83. 274 111lamiJ'l<' (>'uanlln II,), 42 ThickenIng agents, 19l-9S.874-75 .rrowlOOl, 195 bnJ...., l1lan~. 195 corn.urch, 1$1.i-95 Ii;lison, 195 roux, 192 - 94 111ick soups. St.... ",,,/erSWp(s) 1110l11pson s..,.,.'(\le" gl"'.pe,<, 727 Thou.and Is l:lnd l)~s ln ll. 705 - 6 111),me, lB. 129 $lure. rtXi·wine. 22() T h Ynle.sc.:n led Cr.lcry &i ~ ncc ,
'"
TOI1«'). 943 chocobte mac>. nut
pr'.I""'.'T'-79 sac"",,. 103(1-31 TO>Sing n1t"1hod. 639 TOOII rt'Cipe 0061. 69 Tougl1crk'fS.9'T Totlmam. II Tourn<'<-'1'.116 Toxic nll:Uls. 28 Toxin.n>ed1:lt<'
TrJc" minerAls , 43. 44 TraChes, culling, 4n
Tr.lSh fish, 463 1Wc/x,,"el/a ${limits.. 26 l" ichonos;';,26 Tricolor Bean Salad. 8 14 Trio ofSorhcts wllh Ras~"1'
Salad, I073-75 Troi>gros. Jean and Pi""",
~
Tropiol Fnlll S:tIad willi \'ogun Df'e§Slng. 752 T ropical Fruil ,,' llh PaMlon F",k ]>uric. 750
Tiger slmnlp. 469 Tibpia,462 Tilting skill~'1.<. 92-93 Timb"l ... moItb, 87 Time·~nd.lempcrJ. "'c
,..tr~i""", 3n-es, Jr-88 Topneclts, 465 ToqU<'.16
principle, 23
Tlmcrs,83 T""I, Guillault)l;' (1':Iillevcnc). 193 TIS>I1oeS. 144
Toi>asco """"'.... 139
Tofu (""~n curtl). 592 Tohono O'odh:lm Indi~ns. 597 Tonu1lllos. 581 Tom:lI!Uo Sal",,", 227 Tom:uo(es). S81-82 broik-d, 618 -19 COOC'~, 235. 582 and curum"'" salad. rountry. S1yk,7 10 pepe paSla "ith shrimp, l~rrJgon and,673-74 salad. vinc-ripen<'
",
,"ndrioo 10l11alO roll:;, 926 -27 Tom a lO and Aspamgus Sli la
".
Toma lo Sauce, 204 - 5. 2Q.I-6. 217 fresh h~k<'
hand looIs, 79-81 he.vy eqUIp""'OI, 91-94 nk'a.suring and ponlOlling
dc,·ires. 82-tl3 P<'>Ct.'>Sln~ "'luipm<:OI. 88-90
for pn>fessional kItchen. 95-101 s:.fcly equipment. 94-95 ""k'Clin!l. 79 ~tJn
Tropp. Ilaro..rn. 602. 1035 TM,U.462 pan-fried, ..·ilh l(XJSled g'lI'lic,
506-' Trull\e($).586-87 chocQble. 1019 ok... 1034-35
Tru Nk "ln~lgre1le. 662 qui""". rro ric" and knti\5:1bd wilh.660-62 Trussing. JX>Ultry, 394-96 Truth in 3<1\'Cnismg requ1remtnL
"
1'uJx,rs. 591-94 TIIIl.,.: Coo kle:s.?93 T"na, 462-63 ~hi, ~arro With ]a,""n
yellowfin,463 rori.I'I
pepfl"11',5009-10 Tunn .. ling, 892 Turl)lnado (o..rncr.trn) ~ga<.
868.
'"
Tutbot. 460( and iob:ster, g;ol:amine of. 8.!O-ll 1\1rio:ey.381-82
c:.rving, 399 ci:mn of. 381 "lIl!.536 roast, will> Che:stnul ~:md giblet g""'Y. j9~ -96 saus:lge. Te"·~1I:)(. 822-l3 T urkey SUlloplnr ..-;Ih C:apn'S ~"d Lemon, 426_21 Tu""",";", 128. 129 Turnip greens. S85 Turnip Puric. 628 Tumil~" 594 Tunic egg, 536
1157
INDEX
V".,r:HOiI. JJ:l2 Ul!r~
high
l...mper~lure
pIOCt'."''"g
(Utm. 148- 49
\'Cilel~bIc
Ullr:I-paslt...... rizauon. 146 Unax>ked s,:u..:es. 659 Uoiform. proft!>-,ioo~1 cher., 16
UO;I costs. 69 Uolled SI~I~'S CenlCfS for [)i.lr~lion (FDA). 47. 49-51 N~lion;al lrulilul<:$ of Hc~111I (1'1111). 47 sysl...m of me~surem..·nl, 64 Univah·cs. 456. 465 lIruulfuted ,noot.sses. 870 lIru ....=tened ehorobl .... 878 UtililY koif.... III
V~ruum p;lCk~gi0l.!. 268
\':llenda Or:IOI/<"'. 722 V~nilla , 876 Vanilla Cffllle Gla<;c, 98 1 \':lnUb cmI:Ird .:auo,'. 1040 _41. 1042 rurdkd. mH \'an ilb R..... 'berry La)'u Ca ke wll h While Ch oco.ale Rutlercn:am , 1026 - 27 Vanilla. Sal>«'. I ()42 V:.nillin.876 Varenn..". Fr.m\"Oi.< i'iem- de 1.:1. 193 Veal. 312-33 booeI. for >lock. 18i brc:oSl of. $Iuff<'
sw=tbreads.322 l)"ingIllC~t.o:. 321 .,.~I\..".·
~nd
gN'en
hl-~o r~goul. 3~
ros<:m:uy-ro;tsled wilh poroni mu,hl"OOll"!. 326-27 CUllers. breaA$;)<.k!I .... 314-16 hinds:lddk.316-]7 OI"g"n meal. 317-18 u.sin!;!.323 kg of. 3]7 Ioi" ""'...... 327-28 nurinaurljol. !70 O'S(J l)llco. 331 saUIfi"d SC'~llol's. wilh whil<' W;1lt.' Icmon SOIUC<.'. 280-1'11 :allo:Jj». .s''',Ilb:t.!. wilh QlI ...uJoo;,
".
s"'e~1brea(L<
juire sauces. 21~-15 oil>, 4(\, 135 V"go".ble pt'<'1"r, 79 \'"g~1ables. 572-630. $0..., (il$O QlbOage(s); Fruit'"<'go:-tables; MI1>hroorn(..,); Onions, S{>et:/fic IJTJ/.'S of \'egt1~bIC
"'8o:,ables ~d<.Valk~li re~ctions
of. 601-2 baby. 596 b:!king. 60s bot.ef 5OUp. ""any. 235-36 hb n<:hlnll.607_8 boilioll·606-11 brnisinl.l. 612- 14 broilmg. 603- 4 ""nllt.'d, 599-600 cooki0l.ll.luiddines. 602-3 oounuy. Chiappelli"s lamh shank wilh lentils and, 3~3 ;0 cre~m soups. 238 decp ·fr)·ing. 607 disease. li nked 10 deficiency in.
"
dried, 600-601 fresh, 598-99 frQl\Cn.600 gourds and squash ..... S83-84 grading. 596 1If=I'S. SS4-SS grilliog.603-4 ,rrJd,,,ted. 599 mic""""'OIng.6 14-15 moIdlflJl. 1087 llutnuo",d v.llues of. 597-98 pan-fryinjl. 601 parboill"g.60S pods and seeds. ~-91 pres..'f\'ed. 599-601 pu,du.lng. 598 "",""",ing. 61~16 pur{,cs. as sandwich spread. 763 ripo:ninl.l. S98-99 n;>:ISliog. 605 rolls. pkkled. 851-52 rootS ~ndlubers. 591-9<1 salad" M. 700-701 as s:.tndwich filling. 764
s:.uCd.659
her. S'H1liled wilh onkHl.'. 329
dl<.>p>; ro..,;led wilh morel
\ 'cal M~rengo, 329- 30 \'eal ,\\ a,.,.al~, 332-33 V"gan. 574 Vegeuble coulls. 212. 21j
grenoble. 330 wild mushroolll.• ~nd. SOUl'. 251 , 'ral Frkas~, 333 " ral Ke""bs, 327
sMcing.606-7 shockioll. 608 and shrimp le",pur.l. ~nd dipping sauc .... S68 ,.k~..,.". grilled. 604 :iOUps. 233. 234-35 stalks. 594-96 sleaming.611-1 2 SI ... wing.6]2-]4 Sloriog. 599 Sum me,.. with !alY3J!011 ~loIi. 6]7-18 'sw<'Jtiog; 602 1<.'m1lC5.
799
lruflles. S86-87 vitamio <:<>tKCmratlOl1 and retcmion for. 43 wok. 499 \'cgrtable .. auond>d"(~"",~. 1I V.-gelable S4ock, 189 \ 'cg\':\:lblc Te rrine , S ill Vegelable Te rrine 10 Ilrloc h .,. 8 14 _ 1S \'<.-get:on:ln.
574
\ 'e gglc Wrap, 782- 8 3
Vdoult. 198-201. 199.217.233 Ve~ison. 433, 437 achiole·b"Sled mek of. " 'ith <mOked rom puddmg. 440-42 chilll.rubb...d. with .,.~m,odized b"rry sau"". 444-45 n"'rin~(~-d loin of. r(xl>led willi oluSlard 442_43 meddhons grnnd \"ffI<~r. 445 red ,,',!"Ie jus. 442 VcnlllOOl 3nd Hlack lIeDn Chill .
4..
warm ,\\ ~h1'O()1II Salad ,,·j.b Grilled Eijgpla m aod While Tn,flh:s. 621 ~22 Washed "nd. 155 \\"':I>hc> for ),"251 breau... 914 W:t,hinl(!on. G=rge. ]053 W,SIC. ~'Ofllrol of. 72 \\'a!er boiliog point of. 176 as es.
685
\ ·.,nOOo Medallions Gno d
ll'"t ... rtreSS.
VC'"C'u r, 445 Vcrullalion S)'slems ('·en(il.tion hoods). 95 \'e'lli'. Roj;t:r. 8 \'t'rmoolI C:iboc <:hedWr, 159 \'enical ruu ....' 1lllX.... (Von. 89 1'1",,,/...,,.. Le(Taill ... ,·.'1I1). 193 Vkh f';sobe (Co ld 1't)13to-I.cek Soup). 245 V""""""" fQ;ISI roffe<:. 140 \r,naign.1,e(s).690-91 h"ls:omic aod """h,d jI:,rllc. 704 \>.:15k. 691 b:!sil. 663 """,,, p:ln-kared sc~ bass "ilh.
WAlemlCk>ru. 7~ \\·ater·ooLubk 1·,\Jmin" 41 Waxy pOI.OIoes. 6j.6 We
511-12 bourbon. warm lam\) .salad wilh.
'"
<,mubified. 693-94 haelnul, ""lfm duck brc:oSl salad wi,h Asi." spk-.,s and. 421-22 I""JOn.702-3 raspberry. 703 f.(·f,..,...,703 I!lC>Clun salad w'lh. 696 r<'d onion, 704 sherry bacon. griHt,d St'Ckei po:ar -Slll;ng'-. 690 \'l o ... , Rl...,n~'" T01l>a lo Sa lad, 711
Viru;,es. 26-27
VlI:tmlllS. 38. 39. 41-42 I'ilis ""/fi,,..,. 727 Vol·au·vems, 959-60 volul\"ll:.' <,kfi ........ 64 l\"II:.'~re"""'l5 by, 82
O/r Waf.... cookie$, 967 \l?afll ..... 895 Wahoo (ono). 463 lX'ai'ers. 12 Wakd'idd. !tum. 969 Walk-io rriri)!Cf"lors. 93 Walnuts. 135 r<'d poIa!oes with gol)jonzola ~nd. 853 Warm coorobte soulllC:. 1067-68 Warn\ Duck H.....""'I SaL:ad ,,1lh ASian Splc"", and lI ald Olul \'loaI8relle , 42 1- 22 Warm La mb Sllbd " ' llh Bourbon Vlnaigrelle, 714
] 11111-9 \\"'!t hl defi1l....!.64 I1lCasurelllents by. 112 \'("" .... n harbe<.-ut-. buff'" prt.-s<."Illall0" for. 1107 Westph:than ham. 809 Wet allln)(. 268 Wh<'~l, 645
flour. 864-65 noodles. 653-S4 tabouli (bu lgur wh<'all ... lad. 671 types of. 645 whole. hr.,~d. 927 Whccl-rul ~~h. 473 1I'h<'I.'>l0
m
Whllc 1k~1\S , 447 brnL«''led yellowfin luoa ""III. ond roasted po:PllCrs. 509-10 While chocolal .... 879 Wh itc Chocobtc Franl;l'liro Ua vari~l1. 1068 \1;'ilitdhh,463 While W'~po:fruils. 722 Whue m~hroom, 586 Whit... onions, sa; While ~ach Sorbcl, 1074 Whil~ po:ppercorns. 121 Wh;l~ Ix~aloes. 635 Whil" rice. 643 While roux. 192 Wh llc Sandwich Dread, 925 While .lews. '1JS7, 290 Whit., s tock . ISO. ]114 Whil(, lruffles, w~nn mush.room ... Lld wdh grilk"ll cggpbm and. 621-22 While wine lelllon s;tucc .... m(...'tl "c,,1 """lIops " ·,Ih. 280~81 'IX' rule Win., Marinadc . 391 Whiun)C, <163 Whole It-h. 472 Who'" l't)ach~'
09(8). 384 Whole SI7.illng Calfish with Gloge r a nd 1'<:>,l1." S 3 UCC:, S7 1 WholcliOl"
1158
INDl<X
\\,Id hoot, H4,
43~
\Ii Lid Dlw;hroorno..
5<..' ",lfk.,.
Mu.hroomh' Wild
M""hroo",-~ ~nd
".
\ 'r .. ' SoU l>,
Wild Mus hroom Soup with Fok Gr:&!i.250-S 1
\\OOIOfl ski",. 'iluff<-d. Sn-.. 3 "',III a(>ri<.'f)ll ""vce. 842-43 \\<:~~<:nhi", ... uce. 1,W Work ....... safety for..H-34
\\"00
~ioos.
W6rk
>(~Iion>.
"''or\.:
98-100
98 ubieo-. 3]
\\-;Id ...,.,. 6-i.J p<."CIn.().I1 >luffing. r<~ eomlSh )pOle
h.m
"'''h. H3 Wild R"'-' a nd Cr .. n""rry
S.ufnng. 670 - 7 ' Will,an,-' !l<'ar<. 731 Willed Spinac h Sa lad with Roast .... .. ' '''''!>"os, 709 Winc.-(s), 8fI(}
I",,,,,,d 1\.«1 cahh,)o:c "'''h "pplc,' .I"d, (,;!9 eh"""" und, loj ChOl~,I.!ll· "nd. 1·11 ~r.'P<·s ;mn, 727 n\;lrin..dc~ h".,.,.,,) on, 270 nod, [><,"1'> [l(>:och",'d in. 747
Wln..""p aprk" 730 \\,oc slc"Jrd(chddc\'ln),12 Wi"" ",0<"11""'. 137
Win' ..... ","a,h••"<. SIH \\I.U1 ~'arp \\"'01< ••
o,<--dWr, I W
S6
'«hk ""!IC'I;lblo. 499
"JnlS,
63')
h..... >1.903-10 IL~npt."'''IU~
for dc"rloping, 909
In""" of, 909-10 breads. 906-39 baking. 917-\8 l,;l,k ~·rt:n•.:I'. 914 bread,licks, 928-29 hrioch".933-j4 ch:tlbh.9.i2-j3 (<Jolin!! and ,.oring. 918 Oanbh I,a,uje" 937009 dOI1,,""'" of. 918 dollgh f"n~min!!. 91j mixmg aoo k"",ading. 911-13 pil..... 93O
' ...... SI
pO"oonin!!..913 p4JoctJing do",n. 913 roIl...!·in. 920-23 Engli>h ",,,ffin 92;-26
loa""".
foca(tj~
(KonUI1
tl".bfe~d),
929-.'00 hi>!O<)' of. 911 jumho cino:lmol1 hu"-,. 9j~ lij.!h. rye I,....~d. 920 mul1LW"~in du .... 929 p....::an '''('k), bu"-,. 936 poI~.o cht.". 91~ ,k}\'t=rle~f roIh. 911 f'"-~fOfm [(';"''''. 916 p.n 10;,''''. 916 f'3,kcr 1>0\1><: roIl~. 914 ~b,hinwdockin8 of. 917 suf. ye:"" d,nn"r ",Ib, 91f1-19 sourdouj.!h h:~ic , 9.'00-3) San Fr:lIlci.,>,-'o.931_32 sumJricd '(~n~1\' mil>. n6-27 lI'o.,ble.,lltxJllnlC ~han for. 923 "'~,l"-,,, for, 917
whi." ""nd"'kh. 92~ whok' "IICal. 921 \ '''''>1".
!7
Ydkru' ~'R.lOkIlt."Ck . SM \'cl(nwfi" 1110:1. 463
cori:IOOert
Ydlo" hot chilo. ,lUi1kd lobster ",th. and chlpolko p;>. onion. 587 \·cllo,,· ...-d R<,,"JI Ann d>t:niot.->.
-"
h,ld. (X,-6"
Yield wadt':s. "!67 \'ogun. 151 wcumIICr-. ",,13d. 630 d ..."'''' n8. WInk. 783 dn,ssing. Ir..,pic'JI fnlil ",lid ,,'llh, ~;2
fresh peach and. soup. !;9 ~·olk. ~AA. 536
Zc."~,.
79
Ziti, 653 bak...!. wi.h r",sh l00muu "'''''-'e. 67;-"'6 ZucchinI "read. 901 Zushl (Sushi Rlo«'). 8.36-39. 8}7 niglri. !l3~-3fI nori"uki, 11$-39
ON COOKING Cub..." AT..!I.ool.1
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ON COOI.': ING. I~Tmmm,' - 19951ACP Jullil CI,IIJ Cookbook AwarJ Nominee. ""''''' - iniernilllonal Cookbook l~cnJc 1997 Top Professiollilillook. LAm~NSKY - 1998 James ?a.
Re.lrJ ~~lIruIIlHoll Awn.rJ Nominee.
rCil hJ re.~ ~:ps. kC~III(plcS
f*!.I of loJuy's
cllers:
- Wolfgang Pud. amoh on Mtdn. Snnhr ~Il onlcu. CA - Mark Mill.... Co••1e Cor.. Sanle re. NM - Alf,...! P• Goll.= l1.r & Grill. New Yo.l. NY
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~... [rse ..,0"1' CO llsdence anJ pa mpe r yuur I>a la le ! f\".llors focus on
Irca lll,!.! cooklll U. wIlli spc.:lnlly IIU1l'kcJ
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Over 1450 CJ.:flulsl lc. fnll-color l,boto9r'ftIJI,s liluslml'c IN!sl. Ing reJlcnls. cooking k clu,lllues alUl plule II!'eScntuHoli.
~.. 750 plus !.Iollrmel recl pcs rcfl""d
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fromClltssle rl'c ncll 10 New Amcrlcan. New clmillers Oil HOI's d'oeuvre and CllllallCs, !;.gs ;\1111 Sall(lwlcl,cs I.elll yon musler .~c bllslr.s ol· llOsl d,c IItAcd Illu.y.
~.. Tccllllhl llc.... from cx tJcrt c~crs. essays 011 " IU,I" SCli ma ke
food Il lslory ItIHlllllh,lBOI1I1 I
ON COOI{ING mucb more lluIIi ,.11 ortllnnry cookbook!
"llw 1.001 I, .impl. Il.. J-I on. ofI" ldnJ. A mul...{ul oolloclion of
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- Nod Gll... CortI{J.J MMIer PreslJ..£ Am.rJ~ C.JJ..r" f.J....uon
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PRENTICE HALL
-
Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458
ISBN 0-13-862640-5
