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!LTHOUGH ITS OFTEN THE OLDER ASPECTS OF 7ELSH AND #ELTIC CULTURE FROM STONE CIRCLES TO CRUMBLING CASTLES THAT BRING VISITORS HERE IN THE lRST PLACE CONTEMPORARY 7ALES IS ALSO A DRAW 4HE CITIES AND UNIVERSITY TOWNS THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY ARE BUZZING WITH AN UNDERSTATED YOUTHFUL CONl DENCE AND SENSE OF CULTURAL OPTIMISM WHILE A GENERATION OR TWO OF SO CALLED h.EW !GEv MIGRANTS HAVE BROUGHT A CURIOUS COSMOPOLITANISM TO THE SMALL MARKET TOWNS OF MID 7ALES AND THE WEST !LTHOUGH CONSERVATIVE AND TRADITIONAL FORCES STILL SPORADICALLY CLASH WITH THESE MORE LIBERAL AND ANARCHIC STRANDS OF THOUGHT THERES AN UNQUESTIONABLE FEELING THAT 7ALES IS BIG ENOUGH BOTH PHYSICALLY AND EMOTIONALLY TO EMBRACE SUCH DIVERSE INmUENCES 0ERHAPS MOST IMPORTANTLY OF ALL 7ELSH CULTURE IS UNDERPINNED BY AN ICONOCLASTIC DEMOCRACY THAT CONTRASTS STARKLY WITH THE ESTABLISH MENT OBSESSED DIVISIONS OF %NGLAND OR EVEN TO SOME EXTENT OF 3COTLAND OR )RELAND 7ALES IS NOT n AND NEVER HAS BEEN n SO ABSORBED BY MAT TERS OF CLASS AND STATUS AS ITS NEAR NEIGHBOURS )NSTEAD THE 7ELSH CHAR ACTER IS FAMOUSLY ENDOWED WITH A MUSICALITY LYRICISM INTROSPECTION AND SENTIMENTALITY THAT PRODUCES FAR BETTER BARDS AND SINGERS THAN IT DOES LORDS AND MASTERS !ND 7ELSH CULTURE IS UNDENIABLY POPULAR ARISING FROM AN INHERENTLY DEMOCRATIC IMPULSE !NYTHING FROM A SING SONG IN THE PUB TO THE GRANDIOSE THEATRICALITY OF AN %ISTEDDFOD INVOLVES EVERYONE n INCLUDING ANY VISITOR EAGER TO LEARN AND JOIN IN
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AND GREY ONE YEAR AND GLORIOUSLY SUNNY THE NEXT AND THE SAME GOES FOR THE AUTUMNAL MONTHS n .OVEMBER STANDS AN EQUAL CHANCE OF BEING CRISP AND CLEAR OR FOGGY AND GRIM /BVIOUSLY IF YOURE PLANNING TO LIE ON A BEACH OR CAMP IN THE DRY YOULL WANT TO GO BETWEEN *UNE AND 3EPTEMBER n A PERIOD WHEN YOU SHOULD BOOK YOUR ACCOMMODATION AS FAR IN ADVANCE AS POSSIBLE /THERWISE IF YOURE BALANCING THE LIKELY FAIRNESS OF THE WEATHER AGAINST THE DENSITY OF THE CROWDS THE BEST TIME TO GET INTO THE COUNTRYSIDE OR THE TOWNS IS BETWEEN !PRIL AND -AY OR 3EPTEMBER AND /CTOBER )F OUTDOOR PURSUITS ARE YOUR OBJECTIVE THESE ARE THE BEST MONTHS FOR WALKING *UNE TO /CTOBER ARE WARMEST AND DRIEST FOR CLIMBING AND $ECEMBER TO -ARCH THE ONLY TIMES YOULL lND ENOUGH WATER FOR KAYAKING 8BMFTDMJNBUF "WFSBHFEBJMZUFNQFSBUVSFTBOENPOUIMZSBJOGBMM ª
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THE SHAPE OF THE NEW .ATIONAL 7ATERFRONT -USEUM ,IKE #ARDIFF 3WANSEA GREW PRINCIPALLY ON THE STRENGTH OF ITS DOCKS AND SITS ON AN IMPRESSIVE ARC OF COAST THAT SHELVES ROUND FROM THE BELCHING STEEL WORKS OF 0ORT 4ALBOT IN THE EAST TO -UMBLES AND /YSTERMOUTH HOLIDAY TOWNS OF AMUSEMENT ARCADES PUBS AND CHIP SHOPS ON THE JAW OF THE DELIGHTFUL 'OWER PENINSULA IN THE WEST 'OWER n ONE OF THE COUNTRYS FAVOURITE PLAYGROUNDS n JUTS OUT INTO THE SEA A MINI 7ALES OF GRAND BEACHES ROCKY HEADLANDS BRACKEN HEATHS AND RUINED CASTLES
$IFQTUPX /F ALL THE PLACES THAT CALL THEMSELVES hTHE GATEWAY TO 7ALESv THE OLD BORDER TOWN OF #(%034/7 #AS 'WENT HAS PROBABLY THE GREATEST CLAIM BEING THE lRST 7ELSH TOWN ON THE MAIN ROAD INTO THE COUNTRY 3ITUATED ON THE WESTERN BANK OF THE 2IVER 7YE JUST OVER A MILE FROM WHERE ITS TIDAL WATERS mOW OUT INTO THE MUDDY 3EVERN ESTUARY #HEPSTOW IS A STURDY SLIGHTLY SOULLESS PLACE WITH LITTLE OF THE CHARM OR QUIRKINESS OF MANY OTHER 7ELSH MARKET TOWNS (OWEVER THE TOWNS FANTASTIC CASTLE MAKES #HEPSTOW WELL WORTH A STOP "SSJWBM JOGPSNBUJPOBOEBDDPNNPEBUJPO
4RAINS BETWEEN #ARDIFF AND "IRMINGHAM STOP AT #HEPSTOWS TRAIN STATION lVE MINUTES WALK SOUTH OF THE (IGH 3TREET 4HE TOWNS BUS STATION IS ON 4HOMAS 3TREET ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE 7EST 'ATE AND HAS FREQUENT SERVICES TO .EWPORT BUT ONLY ONE EVERY COUPLE OF HOURS TO 4INTERN AND -ONMOUTH 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS LOCATED IN THE CASTLE CAR PARK OFF "RIDGE 3TREET DAILY .OVn %ASTER AMnPM %ASTERn/CT AMnPM CHEPSTOW TIC MONMOUTHSHIREGOVUK !CCOMMODATION IS NOT ESPECIALLY ABUNDANT THOUGH A FEW GOOD PLACES DO EXIST
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#HEPSTOWS POSITION AS A FORMER RIVER PORT IS EVIDENT IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 0ORT 7ALL ENCASING THE CASTLE PRECINCTS AND THE TOWN CENTRE IN THEIR LOOP OF THE RIVER 4HE lFTEENTH CENTURY 7EST 'ATE BISECTS THE (IGH 3TREET A HANDSOME THOROUGHFARE SIDED BY 'EORGIAN AND 6ICTORIAN BUILDINGS AND SLOPING DOWN FROM THE GATE TOWARDS THE RIVER (ERE AN ELEGANT lVE ARCH CAST IRON BRIDGE BUILT IN IS STILL IN USE FOR CROSS BORDER TRAFlC INTO %NGLAND 4HIS SECTION OF THE 7YE IS TIDAL WITH A MIGHTY FOOT DIFFERENCE IN THE WATER LEVEL BETWEEN HIGH AND LOW TIDES THE SECOND HIGHEST TIDAL DROP IN THE WORLD AFTER THE "AY OF &UNDY ON THE 53#ANADIAN BORDER ! SHORT STREET WITH A RIVERSIDE ESPLANADE 4HE "ACK RUNS SOUTHEAST FROM THE BRIDGE PAST A COUPLE OF PUBS AND THE 7YE +NOT RESTAURANT WHERE A PLAQUE COMMEMORATES THE QUAY AS THE SITE FROM WHICH THE THREE LEADERS OF .EWPORTS #HARTIST -ARCH OF WERE DISPATCHED TO 6AN $IEMENS ,AND 4ASMANIA "RIDGE 3TREET LEADS FROM THE OLD BRIDGE UP TOWARDS THE MAIN ENTRANCE OF #HEPSTOW #ASTLE !PRIL -AY /CT DAILY AMnPM *UNEn3EPT DAILY AMnPM .OVn-ARCH -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM a #!$7 )TS STRATEGIC LOCATION COULD SCARCELY BE BETTERED "UILT TIGHT INTO A LOOP OF THE 2IVER 7YE IT GUARDS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT ROUTES INTO 7ALES
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#HEPSTOW WAS THE lRST STONE CASTLE TO BE BUILT IN "RITAIN WITH ITS lRST .ORMAN INCARNATION THE 'REAT 4OWER KEEP RISING IN JUST ONE YEAR AFTER 7ILLIAM THE #ONQUERORS VICTORY AT (ASTINGS 7ILLIAM HAD REALIZED THE IMPORTANCE OF SUBDUING THE RESTLESS 7ELSH CREATING BORDERLAND -ARCHER ,ORDSHIPS AND ENCOURAGING THE TITLE HOLDERS TO EXPAND INTO 7ELSH TERRITORY A SUCCESSION OF #HEPSTOWS LORDS ATTEMPTED THIS NECESSITATING RENEWED AND INCREASINGLY POWERFUL FORTIlCATION OF THEIR CASTLES OVER THE NEXT TWO HUNDRED YEARS /WNER SHIP OF BOTH TITLE AND CASTLE PASSED TO THE EARLS OF .ORFOLK AND THEN 0EMBROKE WHO RETAIN THE FORTRESS TO THIS DAY 4HE WALLED CASTLE IS COMPRISED OF THREE SEPARATE ENCLOSURES THE ,OWER 7ARD BEING THE LARGEST AND DATING MAINLY FROM THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY (ERE YOULL lND THE 'REAT (ALL HOME TO A WIDE RANGING EXHIBITION ON THE HISTORY OF THE CASTLE 4WELFTH CENTURY DEFENCES SEPARATE THE ,OWER 7ARD FROM THE -IDDLE 7ARD WHICH IS DOMINATED BY THE STILL IMPOSING RUINS OF THE 'REAT 4OWER WHOSE LOWER mOORS INCLUDE THE ORIGINAL .ORMAN KEEP "EYOND THE 'REAT 4OWER IS THE FAR NARROWER 5PPER 7ARD WHICH LEADS UP TO THE "ARBICAN WATCHTOWER FROM WHICH THERE ARE SOME SUPERLATIVE VIEWS LOOKING BACK OVER THE CASTLE AND DOWN THE CLIFF TO THE MUD mATS OF THE RIVER ESTUARY /PPOSITE THE CASTLE IS A CRIMSON PAINTED 'EORGIAN TOWNHOUSE CONTAINING THE #HEPSTOW -USEUM *ULYn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM /CTn*UNE -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM FREE 4HE DISPLAYS CONCERN THEM SELVES WITH LOCAL LIFE WITH NOSTALGIC PHOTOGRAPHS AND PAINTINGS OF THE TRADES SUPPORTED IN THE PAST BY THE 2IVER 7YE AND RECORDS OF #HEPSTOWS BRIEF LIFE IN THE EARLY PART OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY AS A SHIPBUILDING CENTRE /NCE YOUVE EXHAUSTED THE CHARMS OF #HEPSTOW YOU COULD FOLLOW THE FAIRLY CHALLENGING TWO HOUR 7YE 6ALLEY 7ALK TO 4INTERN !BBEY SEE OVERLEAF WHICH
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STARTS FROM THE CASTLE CAR PARK ! MAP n OR A a LEAmET AVAILABLE FROM THE TOUR IST OFlCE n IS ADVISABLE AS THE PATH TUCKS AND MEANDERS AROUND AND ABOVE THE TWISTING 7YE 9OU COULD RETURN ALONG THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RIVER ON THE /FFAS $YKE 0ATH SEE P WHICH PASSES THE DRAMATIC VIEWPOINT OF $EVILS 0ULPIT JUST OFF THE " AND REACHES ITS SOUTHERN END AT 3EDBURY #LIFFS A MILE OR SO EAST OF TOWN ON THE %NGLISH SIDE OF THE BORDER 4HE 7YE 6ALLEY 7ALK BRUSHES PAST THE OLD 0ICTURESQUE ESTATE OF 0IERCElELD 0ARK A MILE NORTH OF TOWN CENTRED ON A CRUMBLING 'EORGIAN MANSION n GOOD FOR AN HOURS POKING AROUND 0ART OF THE 0IERCElELD ESTATE HAS METAMORPHOSED INTO #HEPSTOW 2ACECOURSE WWWCHEPSTOW RACECOURSECOUK ONE OF THE COUNTRYS PREMIER RACING VENUES WITH REGULAR YEAR ROUND MEETS 4HE ENTRANCE IS OFF THE ! NORTH OF TOWN
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7ITH A HANDFUL OF DECENT RESTAURANTS AND A FEW GOOD PUBS SOME BY THE RIVER YOULL DO lNE FOR A NIGHT IN #HEPSTOW #PBU*OO5IF#BDL"OFOPSNPVTMZDPOWJWJBMXBUFS TJEFQVCXJUIBHPPE WFHFUBSJBOGSJFOEMZNFOV $BSBNFMMF1BUJTTFSJF$IPDPMBUJFS4U.BSZT4U 'JSTUTUPQGPSDMPUUFEDSFBNGVEHF ZPHVSUDPBUFE EBUFTBOEUIFXPOEFSGVM4JEPMJTJDFDSFBN $BTUMF7JFX)PUFM TFFQ )JHIMZSBUFEIPUFM SFTUBVSBOUTFSWJOHTVDDVMFOUNFBMTTVDIBTQBO GSJFESFETOBQQFSGPSVOEFSb BOEBMTPPGGFSJOH MJHIUFSMVODIFT 'JWF"MMT)JHI4U(FOVJOFMPDBMJOOXJUIBGSJFOEMZ BUNPTQIFSFBOEPOFPGUIFCFTUQVCTJHOTBSPVOE
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3IX MILES NORTH OF #HEPSTOW ON ONE OF THE 2IVER 7YES MOST SPECTACULAR STRETCHES 4INTERN !BBEY *UNEn3EPT DAILY AMnPM !PRIL -AY /CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn-ARCH -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM a #!$7 HAS INSPIRED WRITERS AND PAINTERS FOR OVER TWO HUNDRED YEARS EVER SINCE THE 2EVEREND 7ILLIAM 'ILPIN PUBLISHED A BOOK IN EXTOLLING THE PICTURESQUE QUALITIES OF THE ABBEY AND ITS VALLEY /N A QUIET DAY THE SIGHT OF THE SOFT ROOmESS RUINS IS HUGELY UPLIFTING THE hTALL ROCK4HE MOUNTAIN AND THE DEEP AND GLOOMY WOODv WRITTEN ABOUT BY 7ORDSWORTH ARE STILL EVIDENT TODAY 3UCH IS THE ABBEYS ENORMOUS POPULARITY HOWEVER THAT IN THE MIDDLE OF A SUMMERS DAY THE MAGIC CAN ALL BUT EVAPORATE IT IS BETTER TO GO OUT OF SEASON OR AT THE BEGINNING OR END OF THE DAY WHEN THE CROWDS HAVE THINNED OUT 4HE ABBEY LASTED AS A MONASTIC SETTLEMENT FROM ITS FOUNDATION BY THE #ISTER CIAN ORDER IN TO ITS DISSOLUTION IN AND THE ORIGINAL ORDER OF MONKS WAS BROUGHT WHOLESALE FROM .ORMANDY ITS MEMBERS ESTABLISHING THEMSELVES AS MAJOR LOCAL LANDHOLDERS AND AGRICULTURALISTS 4HIS INCREASED THE POWER AND WEALTH OF THE ABBEY ATTRACTING MORE MONKS AND NECESSITATING A MASSIVE REBUILD ING AND EXPANSION PLAN IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY WHEN 4INTERN WAS AT ITS MIGHTIEST -OST OF THE REMAINING BUILDINGS DATE FROM THIS TIME AFTER WHICH THE INmUENCE OF THE ABBEY AND ITS ORDER BEGAN TO WANE 5PON DISSOLUTION MANY OF THE BUILDINGS WERE PLUNDERED AND STRIPPED LEAVING THE ABBEY TO CRUMBLE INTO ADVANCED DECAY )TS SURVIVAL IS LARGELY THANKS TO ITS REMOTENESS AS THERE WERE NO NEARBY VILLAGES READY TO USE THE ABBEY STONE FOR REBUILDING &ROM THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY ONWARDS TRAVELLERS SEARCHING FOR A PICTURESQUE RATHER THAN
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RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCE HAVE BEEN ATTRACTED TO THE ROMANTICALLY PLACED IVY CLAD RUINS AND A TRIP TO 4INTERN WAS ESSENTIAL FOR THE 2OMANTICS n 7ORDSWORTH AND 4URNER AMONGST THEM 4HE CENTREPIECE OF THE COMPLEX WAS THE MAGNIlCENT 'OTHIC CHURCH BUILT AT THE TURN OF THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY TO ENCASE ITS MORE MODEST PREDECESSOR 4HE BULK OF THE BUILDING REMAINS WITH THE REMARKABLE TRACERY IN THE WEST WINDOW AND INTRICATE STONEWORK OF THE CAPITALS AND COLUMNS lRMLY INTACT AMAZINGLY THESE DETAILS WITHSTOOD BOTH THE ELEMENTS AND THE EFFORTS OF PLUNDERING RAIDERS OVER FOUR HUNDRED YEARS !ROUND THE CHURCH ARE THE LESS SUBSTANTIAL RUINS OF THE MONKS DOMESTIC QUARTERS MOSTLY REDUCED TO ONE STOREY RUBBLE 2OOMS ARE EASILY DISTINGUISH ABLE HOWEVER INCLUDING AN INTACT SERVING HATCH IN THE KITCHEN AND THE SQUARE OF THE MONKS CLOISTER 4HE COURSE OF THE ABBEYS WASTE DISPOSAL SYSTEM CAN BE SEEN IN THE 'REAT $RAIN AN IRREGULAR CHANNEL THAT LINKS KITCHENS TOILETS AND THE INlRMARY WITH THE NEARBY 7YE 4HE .OVICES (ALL LIES HANDILY CLOSE TO THE 7ARMING (OUSE WHICH TOGETHER WITH THE KITCHEN AND INlRMARY WOULD HAVE BEEN THE ONLY HEATED PARTS OF THE ABBEY SUGGESTING THAT NOVICES MIGHT HAVE GAINED A FALSELY FAVOURABLE IMPRESSION OF MONASTIC LIFE BEFORE TAKING THEIR lNAL VOWS )N THE DINING HALL YOU CAN STILL SEE THE PULPIT DOOR THAT WOULD ONCE HAVE LED TO THE WALL MOUNTED PULPIT FROM WHICH A MONK WOULD READ THE SCRIPTURES THROUGHOUT EACH MEAL 4HE BEST WAY TO APPRECIATE THE SCALE AND SPLENDOUR OF THE ABBEY RUINS IS BY TAKING A WALK ON THE OPPOSITE BANK OF THE 7YE *UST UPSTREAM FROM THE ABBEY A BRIDGE CROSSES THE RIVER FROM WHERE A PATH CLIMBS A WOODED HILLSIDE 6IEWS ALONG THE WAY AND FROM THE TOP ARE MAGNIlCENT &OUR MILES NORTHWEST OF THE RUINS THE SLEEPY HILLTOP SETTLEMENT OF 42%, ,%#( LITERALLY hTHREE STONESv WAS ONE OF THE LARGEST BOROUGHS IN THE VICINITY 2EMINDERS OF ITS ANCIENT STATUS ABOUND THERES A THIRTEENTH CENTURY STEEPLED CHURCH ON A SEVENTH CENTURY SITE AND NEARBY THE CURIOUS 4UMP AN ANCIENT MOUND THAT LEGEND HAS IT CANNOT BE DISTURBED WITHOUT DEADLY REPRISAL ! FEW HUNDRED YARDS FURTHER SOUTH BY THE " ,LANISHEN ROAD ARE THE THREE STONES OF THE VILLAGES NAME !LSO KNOWN AS (AROLD 3TONES THE STRAINING lNGERS OF ROCK AROUND YEARS OLD AND THRUSTING UP IN THE MIDDLE OF A SHEEP lLLED lELD ARE THOUGHT TO BE ALIGNED WITH 4HE 3KIRRID MOUNTAIN -ONMOUTHSHIRES HOLIEST /FF THE LANE TO 4INTERN YOULL lND THE 6IRTUOUS 7ELL LONG A PLACE OF PILGRIMAGE WITH REPUTED HEALING QUALITIES THAT PROBABLY STEM FROM THE WATERS HIGH IRON CONTENT 1SBDUJDBMJUJFT
.OW CLUTTERED WITH TEASHOPS AND OVERPRICED HOTELS THE TINY VILLAGE OF 4).4%2. 4YNDYRN IMMEDIATELY NORTH OF THE ABBEY IS STRUNG ALONG A MILE OR SO OF THE ! AROUND A LOOP OF THE RIVER 4HE PRINCIPAL VISITOR CENTRE !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM IS LOCATED ANOTHER FEW HUNDRED YARDS TOWARDS -ONMOUTH AT THE /LD 3TATION COMPLEX 4HOUGH YOU WONT WANT TO STAY LONG THERES AN INTERESTING EXHIBITION ON THE OLD 7YE 6ALLEY RAILWAY AND A GOOD SELECTION OF LEAmETS ON LOCAL WALKS INCLUDING SECTIONS OF THE /FFAS $YKE PATH SEE P AND CLIFF RAMBLES ABOVE THE MEANDERING RIVER "" ACCOMMODATION IS AVAILABLE LOCALLY AT THE EXCELLENT 0ARVA &ARMHOUSE NORTH OF THE ABBEY OFF THE MAIN ROAD WWWHOTELTINTERN COUK OR SLAP OPPOSITE THE ABBEY IN THE SUMPTUOUSLY REFURBISHED !BBEY (OTEL WWWTHEABBEY HOTELCOUK &OR BY FAR THE BEST PINT LOCALLY GO TO THE CHARMING #HERRY 4REE HALF A MILE UP THE ROAD THAT FORKS OFF BY THE 2OYAL 'EORGE (OTEL IN 4INTERN AS WELL AS BEER IT ALSO DOES GREAT
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%NCLOSED ON THREE SIDES BY THE RIVERS 7YE AND -ONNOW -/.-/54( 4REFYNWY IS A NICER 7YESIDE BASE THAN #HEPSTOW RETAINING SOME QUIET CHARM FROM ITS DAYS AS AN IMPORTANT BORDER POST AND ONE TIME COUNTY TOWN 4HE CENTRE OF THE TOWN IS !GINCOURT 3QUARE A LARGE AND HANDSOME OPEN SPACE AT THE TOP OF THE WIDE SHOP LINED -ONNOW 3TREET GENTLY DESCENDING TO A DISTINCTIVE THIRTEENTH CENTURY BRIDGE OVER THE 2IVER -ONNOW 4HE COBBLED SQUARE IS DOMINATED BY OLD COACHING INNS mANKING THE ARCHED 'EORGIAN 3HIRE (ALL n ITS FACADE INCLUDES AN EIGHTEENTH CENTURY STATUE OF THE -ONMOUTH BORN +ING (ENRY 6 VICTOR AT THE "ATTLE OF !GINCOURT WHICH BROUGHT .ORMANDY AND SOON AFTERWARDS &RANCE UNDER THE RULE OF THE %NGLISH CROWN )N FRONT OF THE 3HIRE (ALL IS A mORID STATUE OF ANOTHER LOCAL THE (ONOURABLE #HARLES 3TEW ART 2OLLS WHO IN BECAME THE lRST MAN TO PILOT A DOUBLE mIGHT OVER THE %NGLISH #HANNEL AND ALSO CO FOUNDED THE 2OLLS 2OYCE EMPIRE !LMOST OPPOSITE 3HIRE (ALL IS #ASTLE (ILL WHICH YOU CAN WALK UP TO GLIMPSE SOME OF THE RUINS OF THE CASTLE FOUNDED IN REBUILT IN STONE IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY AND ALMOST ANNIHILATED IN THE #IVIL 7AR 4HE ONLY NOTABLE PART OF THE CASTLE THAT REMAINS IS THE 'REAT 4OWER IN WHICH (ENRY 6 IS THOUGHT TO HAVE BEEN BORN IN .EXT TO THE CASTLE THE GRACIOUS SEVENTEENTH CENTURY 'REAT #ASTLE (OUSE BUILT FROM CASTLE BRICKS NOW SERVES AS THE HEADQUARTERS OF THE 2OYAL -ONMOUTHSHIRE REGIMENT 4HEIR HISTORY IS CELEBRATED IN THE 2EGIMEN TAL -USEUM !PRILn/CT DAILY nPM .OVn-ARCH 3AT 3UN nPM FREE ALONG WITH MATERIAL FROM ARCHEOLOGICAL DIGS n NOTE THE ODDLY SHAPED TWELFTH CENTURY BONE DICE WHICH DElNITELY WOULDNT PASS MUSTER IN 6EGAS AND A SMALL KITCHEN GARDEN ARRANGED AROUND A MEDLAR TREE 0RIORY 3TREET LEADS NORTH FROM !GINCOURT 3QUARE TO THE MARKET HALL COMPLEX WHICH CONTAINS THE .ELSON -USEUM AND ,OCAL (ISTORY #ENTRE -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN nPM FREE AN ATTEMPT TO PORTRAY THE LIFE OF ONE OF THE GREATEST SEAFARING "RITONS THROUGH USE OF THE !DMIRALS PERSONAL ARTEFACTS n SWORD MEDALS INTIMATE LETTERS AND CHINA n TOGETHER WITH PICTURES PRINTS AND NAVAL EQUIPMENT OF THE DAY #HARLES 2OLLS MOTHER ,ADY ,LANGATTOCK WAS AN ARDENT ADMIRER OF .ELSON AND A VORACIOUS COLLECTOR OF RELATED MEMORABILIA AND IT IS HER COLLECTION NOW ON DISPLAY IN THE MUSEUM 4HE SMALL COLLECTION OF OTHER LOCAL HISTORY IS VERY STANDARD STUFF !T THE VERY BOTTOM OF -ONNOW 3TREET A COUPLE OF HUNDRED YARDS FROM !GINCOURT 3QUARE THE ROAD NARROWS TO SQUEEZE INTO THE CONlNES OF THE SEVEN HUNDRED YEAR OLD -ONNOW "RIDGE CROWNED WITH ITS HULKING STONE GATE OF THAT SERVED BOTH AS A MEANS OF DEFENCE FOR THE TOWN AND A TOLL COLLEC TION POINT *UST OVER A MILE EAST OF -ONMOUTH A STEEP ROAD CLIMBS UP TO 4HE +YMIN DAILY DAWNnDUSK FREE .4 A lNE VIEWPOINT OVER THE TOWN AND THE 7YE 6ALLEY )TS CROWNED BY THE CRENELLATED 'EORGIAN 2OUND (OUSE !PRILn /CT -ON &RIn3UN AMnPM a .4 AND A .EOCLASSICAL .AVAL 4EMPLE BUILT IN TO CHEER "RITAINS VICTORIES AT SEA 1SBDUJDBMJUJFT
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AMnPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM MONMOUTH TIC MONMOUTHSHIREGOVUK "IKE RENTAL IS AVAILABLE OVER THE BORDER FROM 0EDALAWAY IN ,LANGARRON NEAR 2OSS ON 7YE WWW PEDALAWAYCOUK THEYLL DELIVER LOCALLY #ANOE RENTAL PLUS INSTRUCTION IF NEEDED CAN BE FOUND AT THE -ONMOUTH #ANOE !CTIVITY #ENTRE BY THE 7YE IN #ASTLE 9ARD WWWMONMOUTHCANEOHIREM COM BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL !CCOMMODATION IN TOWN IS MUCH IMPROVED THOUGH THERES NOTHING TRULY SPECIAL GOOD ""S INCLUDE 4$ -AWR AT -ONK 3T "OBS AT #HURCH 3T WWWBOBSMONMOUTHCOUK AND THE SIMPLE BUT AGREEABLE "URTON (OUSE ON 3T *AMES 3QUARE 4HE NEAREST TENT FRIENDLY CAMPSITES ARE BOTH ON $RYBRIDGE 3TREET OVER -ONNOW "RIDGE THEN RIGHT THE -ONNOW "RIDGE a PER PITCH IS BEHIND THE 4HREE (ORSESHOES PUB WHILE THE SLIGHTLY PRICIER -ONMOUTH #ARAVAN 0ARK a PER PITCH IS A QUARTER OF A MILE BEYOND 9OU WONT STARVE IN -ONMOUTH &OR DAYTIME EATING HEAD FOR EITHER #YGNETS +ITCHEN IN 7HITE 3WAN #OURT OFF #HURCH 3TREET WHICH SERVES SUBSTANTIAL SOUPS AND CASSEROLES OR AT THE WONDERFULLY INFORMAL "OBS #HURCH 3T WHICH OFFERS GREAT VALUE LUNCHES AND IS ALSO THE BEST PLACE IN TOWN FOR AN EVENING BLOW OUT &OR BETTER THAN AVERAGE PUB GRUB TRY THE LIVELY 1UEENS (EAD ON 3T *AMES 3TREET OR THE 0UNCH (OUSE ON !GINCOURT 3QUARE -ONMOUTH IS HOME TO A STAGGERING NUMBER OF PUBS WORTH TRYING ARE 4HE "ULL IN !GINCOURT 3QUARE THE 'REEN $RAGON ON 3T 4HOMAS 3QUARE WHERE YOULL OFTEN GET LIVE MUSIC AND THE 2OBIN (OOD ON -ONNOW 3TREET NEAR THE BRIDGE WHERE 3HAKESPEARE IS SAID TO HAVE DRUNK
5IF5ISFF$BTUMFT 4HE FERTILE LOW LYING LAND NORTH OF -ONMOUTH BETWEEN THE -ONNOW AND THE 2IVER 5SK WAS IMPORTANT AS AN EASY ACCESS ROUTE INTO THE AGRICULTURAL LANDS OF SOUTH 7ALES AND THE .ORMAN INVADERS BUILT A TRIO OF STRONGHOLDS HERE TO PROTECT THEIR INTERESTS 3KENFRITH 'ROSMONT AND 7HITE CASTLES ALL #!$7 WERE FOUNDED IN THE ELEVENTH CENTURY AND LIE WITHIN AN EIGHT MILE RADIUS OF EACH OTHER 4HE SIZE AND SPLENDOUR OF THE CASTLES DEMONSTRATES THEIR SIGNIlCANCE IN PROTECTING THE BORDER LANDS FROM BOTH THE RESTLESS %NGLISH AND DISGRUNTLED 7ELSH WHO lRST ATTACKED NEARBY !BERGAVENNY #ASTLE IN PROMPTING +ING 2ALPH OF 'ROSMONT TO REBUILD THE THREE CASTLES IN STONE )N *ULY ALL THREE WERE PRESENTED BY +ING *OHN TO (UBERT DE "URGH WHO FOUGHT EXTENSIVELY ON 4HE #ONTINENT AND BROUGHT BACK SOPHISTICATED NEW IDEAS ON CASTLE DESIGN TO REPLACE EARLIER MODELS WITH SQUARE KEEPS (E REBUILT 3KENFRITH AND 'ROSMONT AND HIS SUCCESSOR AS OVERLORD 7ALERUND 4EUTONICUS hTHE 'ERMANv WORKED ON 7HITE #ASTLE )N THE ADVANCING ARMY OF ,LYWELYN AP 'RUFFYDD BEGAN TO THREATEN THE KINGS SUPREMACY IN SOUTH 7ALES AND THE THREE CASTLES WERE REFORTI lED IN READINESS 'RADUALLY THE CASTLES WERE ADAPTED MORE AS LIVING QUARTERS AND ROYAL ADMINIS TRATIVE CENTRES THAN MILITARY BASES AS THE 7ELSH BEGAN TO ADAPT TO %NGLISH RULE 4HE ONLY RETURN TO MILITARY USAGE CAME IN n WHEN /WAIN 'LYND"RS ARMY PRESSED DOWN TO 'ROSMONT ONLY TO BE DEFEATED BY THE FUTURE +ING (ENRY 6 4HE CASTLES SLIPPED INTO DISREPAIR AND WERE lNALLY SOLD BY THE $UCHY OF ,ANCASTER TO THE $UKE OF "EAUFORT IN 4HE "EAUFORTS SOLD THE THREE CASTLES OFF SEPARATELY IN THE lRST TIME SINCE THAT THE THREE HAD FALLEN OUT OF SINGLE OWNERSHIP
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.AMED FOR ITS COATING OF WHITE RENDERING A FEW PATCHES REMAIN ON THE EXTERIOR WALLS 7HITE #ASTLE #ASTELL 'WYN %ASTERn3EPT 7ED 3UN AMnPM a ALL OTHER TIMES FREE ACCESS GENERALLY AM PM LIES ABOUT EIGHT MILES WEST OF -ONMOUTH JUST NORTH OF THE VILLAGE OF ,LANTILIO #ROSSENNY 4HE MOST AWESOME OF THE THREE CASTLES ITS SITUATED IN OPEN ROLLING COUNTRYSIDE WITH SOME SUPERB VIEWS OVER TO 4HE 3KIRRID MOUNTAIN SEE #HAPTER P &ROM THE GRASSY /UTER 7ARD A BRIDGE LEADS OVER THE MOAT INTO THE DUAL TOWERED )NNER 'ATE HOUSE WHERE THE WESTERN TOWER ON THE RIGHT CAN BE CLIMBED FOR ITS VANTAGE POINT (ERE YOU CAN APPRECIATE THE SCALE OF THE TALL TWELFTH CENTURY CURTAIN WALLS IN THE )NNER 7ARD /F THE DOMESTIC BUILDINGS WITHIN THE WALLS ONLY THE FOUNDA TIONS AND A FEW INCHES OF WALL REMAIN !T THE BACK OF THE WARD THERE ARE MASSIVE FOUNDATIONS OF THE .ORMAN KEEP DEMOLISHED IN ABOUT AND UNEARTHED IN THE EARLY PART OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY 4HE SOUTHERN WALL THAT TOOK THE PLACE OF THE KEEP WAS ONCE THE MAIN ENTRANCE TO THE CASTLE AS CAN BE SEEN IN THE POSTERN GATE IN THE CENTRE ON THE OTHER SIDE OF WHICH A BRIDGE LEADS OVER TO THE (ORNWORK ONE OF THE CASTLES THREE ORIGINAL ENCLOSURES ALTHOUGH NOW NO MORE THAN A GRASSY MOUND 4LFOGSJUI$BTUMF
3EVEN MILES NORTHEAST OF 7HITE #ASTLE ALONGSIDE THE 2IVER -ONNOW THE THIR TEENTH CENTURY CASTLE UNRESTRICTED ACCESS IN THE CENTRE OF THE TINY BORDER VILLAGE OF 3+%.&2)4( 9NYSGYNWRAIDD IS DOMINATED BY THE CIRCULAR KEEP THAT REPLACED AN EARLIER .ORMAN INCARNATION 7HILE NOT AS IMPRESSIVE AS 7HITE #ASTLE 3KENFRITH IS IN A PRETTY RIVERSIDE SETTING ON THE MAIN STREET OF AN ATTRAC TIVE VILLAGE 4HE CASTLES WALLS ARE BUILT OF A STURDY RED SANDSTONE IN AN IRREGULAR RECTANGLE )N THE CENTRE OF THE WARD IS THE FOOT HIGH ROUND KEEP RAISED SLIGHTLY ON AN EARTH MOUND TO GIVE ARCHERS A GREATER lRING RANGE AND CONTAINING THE VESTIGES OF THE PRIVATE APARTMENTS OF THE CASTLES LORD ON THE UPPER mOORS 4HE (ALL 2ANGE OF DOMESTIC BUILDINGS INCLUDES AN INTACT THIRTEENTH CENTURY WINDOW COMPLETE WITH ITS ORIGINAL IRON BARS (SPTNPOU$BTUMF
&IVE MILES UPSTREAM OF 3KENFRITH RIGHT ON THE %NGLISH BORDER THE MOST DILAPIDATED OF THE 4HREE #ASTLES 'ROSMONT #ASTLE #ASTELL Y 'RYSMWNT UNRESTRICTED ACCESS SITS ON A SMALL HILL ABOVE THE VILLAGE OF '2/3-/.4 %NTERING OVER THE WOODEN BRIDGE ABOVE THE DRY MOAT YOU lRST PASS THROUGH THE RUINS OF THE TWO STAGE GATE HOUSE 4HIS LEADS INTO THE SMALL CENTRAL COURTYARD DOMINATED ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE BY THE RUINS OF A LARGE 'REAT (ALL DATING FROM THE lRST DECADE OF THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 4HE VILLAGE CHURCH IS ALSO WORTH A LOOK WITH SOME IMPRESSIVE .ORMAN FEATURES MOST NOTABLY THE NAVE ARCHES AND THE FONT ! MEMORIAL IN THE NAVE IS POPULARLY BELIEVED TO BE OF *OHN +ENT A lFTEENTH CENTURY BARD AND MAGICIAN SOMETIMES BELIEVED TO HAVE BEEN /WAIN 'LYND"R IN HIDING 1SBDUJDBMJUJFT
4HOUGH YOU CAN DRIVE AROUND ALL THREE CASTLES IN A COUPLE OF HOURS THE NATURE OF THIS PEACEFUL COUNTRYSIDE MAKES A MORE SEDATE MODE OF TRANSPORT PREFERABLE "IKES CAN BE RENTED LOCALLY SEE ABOVE AND P FOR !BERGAVENNY FOR A PLEASANT DAY LONG OUTING OR YOU CAN HIKE THE EIGHTEEN MILE CIRCUIT OF PATHS DETAILED IN A BOOKLET a FROM THE TOURIST OFlCES !CCOMMODATION IN THE AREA IS SPARSE BUT GOOD HALF A MILE NORTH OF 7HITE #ASTLE NEAR THE VILLAGE OF ,,!.6%4(%2).% ,LANWYTHERIN IS THE VERY
4HE DISPUTED PAST OF MID -ONMOUTHSHIRE IS OBVIOUS FROM YET MORE CASTLES THAT DOT THE LANDSCAPE WITH DEPENDABLE REGULARITY 3TRETCHING UP FROM THE WIDE SKIED MARSHLAND THAT FALLS GENTLY INTO THE 3EVERN ESTUARY THE LAND REACHES THE mAT UGLY SETTLEMENT OF #ALDICOT ONLY NOTABLE FOR ITS OVER RESTORED CASTLE 4HE ! RUNS FROM THE BORDER INTO SOUTH 7ALES PASSING #AERWENT A QUIET VILLAGE THAT WAS ONCE A GREAT 2OMAN TOWN 4O THE NORTH IS AN UNDULATING LAND OF FORESTS AND TINY VILLAGES CRISSCROSSED BY WINDING LANES THAT OFFER UNEXPECTEDLY DELIGHTFUL VIEWS n AND QUAINT PUBS n AROUND EACH CORNER 4HE CONTOURS SHELVE DOWN IN THE WEST TO THE VALLEY OF THE 2IVER 5SK THE FORMER BORDER OF 7ALES AS DECREED IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY BY (ENRY 6))) 4ODAY THE ! ROAD ROARS THROUGH THE VALLEY BYPASSING LANES VILLAGES AND THE PEACEFUL SMALL TOWN OF 5SK HOME OF AN EXCELLENT MUSEUM BEFORE JOINING THE ! NEAR THE SPECTACULAR RUINS OF 2AGLAN CASTLE
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FRIENDLY 'REAT 4RE 2HEW &ARM TRERHEW BTOPENWORLD COM WHERE YOU CAN ALSO CAMP FOR a PER PERSON )N THE NEARBY VILLAGE OF ,,!.'!44/#+ ,).'/%$ THERES A WONDERFUL FOODIE PUB WHICH ALSO HAS GREAT ROOMS IN THE SHAPE OF THE (UNTERS -OON )NN WWWHUNTERS MOON INNCOUK 9ARDS AWAY IS A GREAT "" IN THE /LD 2ECTORY THOUGH THE PLUSHEST OPTION HEREABOUTS IS THE EMINENT GASTROPUB 4HE "ELL AT 3KENFRITH WWWSKENFRITH COM )F YOU CANT AFFORD TO STAY THERE THE THREE COURSE DINNER AT a IS A VERY WORTHWHILE TREAT
$BMEJDPUBOEUIF(XFOU-FWFMT 3ANDWICHED BETWEEN THE MAIN MOTORWAY AND RAIL LINKS BETWEEN SOUTH 7ALES AND ,ONDON #!,$)#/4 #IL Y COED IS A SPRAWLING OVERGROWN VILLAGE OF MODERN HOUSING 4HE ONLY POSSIBLE DIVERSION IS THE HEAVILY RESTORED CASTLE -ARCHn/CT DAILY AMnPM a ON THE EASTERN SIDE OF THE VILLAGE "UILT IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY AS ONE OF THE .ORMAN -ARCHER CASTLES TO KEEP A WARY EYE ON THE 7ELSH IT CRUMBLED IN THE YEARS LEADING UP TO THE S BEFORE BEING REBUILT BY A WEALTHY 6ICTORIAN BARRISTER *OSEPH #OBB 4HE ONLY ORIGINAL PARTS ARE A LARGE FOURTEENTH CENTURY ROUND TOWER AND ELABORATE GATEHOUSE SITUATED EITHER SIDE OF A GRASSY COURTYARD WHOSE CENTREPIECE IS ONE OF .ELSONS BATTLE CANNONS FROM HIS &OUDROYANT mAGSHIP 4HE CASTLE BUILDINGS CONTAIN AN IMPRESSIVE FURNITURE COLLECTION FROM THE SEVENTEENTH TO THE NINETEENTH CENTURIES 5IF(XFOU-FWFMT
#ALDICOT IS THE lRST SIGHT OF 7ALES FOR TRAIN TRAVELLERS USING THE MAIN LINE FROM ,ONDON AND DRIVERS USING THE SECOND 3EVERN BRIDGE CROSSING a TOLL WESTBOUND ONLY FROM "RISTOL ON THE %NGLISH SIDE OF THE ESTUARY 2ECENTLY CONSTRUCTED ACCESS ROADS HAVE TO SOME DEGREE EATEN INTO ONE OF 7ALES MOST UNEXPECTED LANDSCAPES TO THE SOUTHWEST OF #ALDICOT THE PANCAKE mAT LUSHNESS OF THE 'WENT ,EVELS GREAT FOR GENTLE CYCLING WALKING AND POKING AROUND THE TINY VILLAGES AND ANCIENT CHURCHES THAT LOOM LARGE ON THE LANDSCAPE 4HE BEST PLACE TO APPRECIATE THE AREAS TRANQUILLITY IS AT 'OLDCLIFF A STRAGGLE OF HOUSES PETERING OUT BY THE MUDmATS OF THE ESTUARY (ERE YOU CAN WALK ALONG THE SEA WALLS AND WATCH DIVING SEA BIRDS AND lSHERMEN COMPETING FOR THE SAME CATCH ! NEW WILDLIFE AND WETLAND CENTRE OPEN ACCESS CAN BE FOUND JUST TO THE WEST OF THE VILLAGE
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OF .ASH "UILT AS A COMPENSATORY GESTURE BY THE DEVELOPERS OF THE #ARDIFF "AY BARRAGE SCHEME SEE P TO HELP OFFSET THE LOSS OF WADING BIRDS HABITATS THE POOLS REED BEDS AND HIDES MAKE FOR A SURPRISINGLY LOVELY SPOT CONSIDERING THE WHOLE SITE IS THE OLD DUMPING GROUND FOR THE NEIGHBOURING 5SKMOUTH 0OWER 3TATION 4HE COMMUNITY RUN 7ATERLOO PUB IN .ASH VILLAGE BESIDE THE SPIRED CHURCH IS A WORTHY STOP FOR A GREAT VALUE LUNCH OR DINNER
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4WO MILES NORTHWEST OF #ALDICOT LIES THE APPARENTLY UNREMARKABLE VILLAGE OF #!%27%.4 FROM WHICH THE FORMER COUNTY OF 'WENT TOOK ITS NAME !LMOST TWO THOUSAND YEARS AGO THE VILLAGE WAS KNOWN BY THE 2OMANS AS 6ENTA 3ILURUM THE hMARKET TOWN OF THE 3ILURESv A LOCAL TRIBE FORCIBLY RELOCATED HERE FROM A NEARBY HILLFORT BY THE CONQUERING 2OMANS IN AROUND !$ AFTER YEARS OF BATTLE 4HE MOST COMPLETE REMNANTS OF THE 2OMAN TOWN ARE THE CRUMBLING WALLS WHICH FORM A LARGE RECTANGLE AROUND THE MODERN VILLAGE !CCESS IS EASIEST FROM THE STEPS NEXT TO THE #OACH AND (ORSES PUB LEADING YOU UP ONTO STONE RAMPARTS THAT COMMAND MELANCHOLIC VIEWS AROUND THE QUIET VALLEY 4HE 3OUTH 7ALL IS THE MOST COMPLETE STILL MAINTAINING ITS FOURTH CENTURY BASTIONS AND IT CONTINUES AROUND TO THE OLD 7EST 'ATE (ALFWAY ALONG A LANE CUTS UP TOWARDS THE VILLAGE CHURCH MAPS AND DIAGRAMS IN THE PORCH EXPLAIN THE SITE OF THE VILLAGE AND YOU CAN ALSO SEE TWO INSCRIBED STONES ONE A DEDICATION FROM THE 3ILURI TRIBE TO THEIR 2OMAN OVERLORD 0AULINUS AND ANOTHER DEDICATED TO /CELUS -ARS DEMON STRATING THE ODD MERGING OF 2OMAN AND #ELTIC GODS FOR WORSHIP /PPOSITE THE CHURCH ON THE VILLAGES MAIN STREET THE SHIN HIGH RECTANGULAR OUTLINE OF A 2OMAN TEMPLE HAS BEEN EXCAVATED
6TL "YPASSED BY THE MAIN ! THE PEACEFUL ORDERLY LITTLE TOWN OF 53+ "RYNBUGA SITS ASTRIDE THE RIVER OF THE SAME NAME 0ASTEL PAINTED HOUSES SHOPS AND SOME GREAT PUBS AND RESTAURANTS LINE NARROW "RIDGE 3TREET WHICH LEADS UP FROM THE RIVER AND CROSSES TOWARDS THE CASTLE FREE ACCESS DONATION REQUESTED LOOMING UP ON A HILLTOP TO THE LEFT /PPOSITE THE IVY CLAD RUINS IS THE HUB OF THE TOWN 4WYN 3QUARE WHERE BUSES STOP AMONGST THE COPIOUS GARISH mOWER BOXES THAT SURROUND THE TWEE RESTORED CLOCKTOWER !T THE TOP OF THE SQUARE IS A THIRTEENTH CENTURY GATEHOUSE ONCE PART OF A "ENEDICTINE NUNNERY AND NOW GUARDING THE PASSAGE TO THE IMPRESSIVE TWELFTH AND THIRTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH 4HERE ARE SURVIVING FEATURES FROM ITS DAYS AS A NUNNERY IN THE S INCLUDING THE NAVE AND THE SLIGHTLY LATER TOWER &ORKING TO THE RIGHT OFF "RIDGE 3TREET NEAR THE RIVER IS .EW -ARKET 3TREET WHICH RUNS PAST THE 5SK 2URAL ,IFE -USEUM %ASTERn/CT -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN nPM a HOUSED IN A CONVERTED EIGHTEENTH CENTURY MALT BARN 4HE ENORMOUS COLLECTION HAS BEEN PUT TOGETHER OVER MANY DECADES BY HUNDREDS OF LOCAL RESIDENTS AND ITS FASCINATING !SPECTS OF FARMING ARE EXPLAINED IN A PLEASANTLY HAPHAZARD WAY EVERYTHING FROM ANIMAL CASTRATING IMPLEMENTS TO RE CREATIONS OF DOMESTIC AND FARMING INTERIORS n INCLUDING A DAIRY BREWERY LAUNDRY THATCHERS AND CARPENTRY WORKSHOP n ARE PACKED INTO EVERY AVAILABLE CORNER AND OUTDOOR BARNS CONTINUE THE EXHIBITION WITH FARM CARTS STAGECOACHES AND AN EXHIBITION ABOUT THE 'REAT 7ESTERN 2AILWAY 'IVE YOURSELF A GOOD FEW HOURS TO TAKE IT ALL IN
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5SK IS A QUIET ENJOYABLE PLACE TO STAY WITH GOOD PUBS FOR EVENING ENTERTAIN MENT 4HE CHEAPEST ACCOMMODATION IS 3HEILAS "" AT
.UMEROUS BUSES LEAVE 5SK EVERY DAY FOR 2!',!. 2HAGLAN SEVEN MILES TO THE NORTH AND ALSO EASILY REACHED FROM -ONMOUTH 2AGLAN IS WORTH VISIT ING FOR ITS GLORIOUS CASTLE *UNEn3EPT DAILY AMnPM !PRIL -AY /CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn-ARCH -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM a #!$7 WHOSE ORNATE STYLE AND COMPARATIVE INTACTNESS MAKES A CHANGE FROM SO MANY OTHER CRUMBLING 7ELSH FORTRESSES 4HE LAST MEDIEVAL FORTIlCATION BUILT IN "RITAIN 2AGLAN WAS BEGUN ON THE SITE OF A .ORMAN MOTTE IN BY 3IR 7ILLIAM AP 4HOMAS WHOSE DESIGN COMBINES PRACTICAL STRENGTH WITH OSTENTA TIOUS STYLE 6ARIOUS DESCENDANTS ADDED TO THE CASTLE AFTER HIS DEATH AND BUILDING CARRIED ON INTO THE LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY 4HE GATEHOUSE IS STILL USED AS THE MAIN ENTRANCE AND THE lNEST EXAMPLES OF THE CASTLES SHOWY DECORATION APPEAR IN ITS HERALDIC SHIELDS INTRICATE STONEWORK EDGING AND GARGOYLES )NSIDE STONEMASONS MARKS USED TO IDENTIFY HOW MUCH WORK EACH MAN HAD DONE CAN BE SEEN ON THE WALLS !P 4HOMAS GRANDSON 7ILLIAM (ERBERT )) WAS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE TWO INNER COURTS BUILT IN THE MID lFTEENTH CENTURY AROUND HIS GRANDFATHERS ORIGINAL GATEHOUSE HALL AND KEEP 4HE lRST IS THE COBBLED 0ITCHED 3TONE #OURT DESIGNED TO HOUSE THE KITCHEN AND SERVANTS QUARTERS 4O THE LEFT IS &OUNTAIN #OURT ONCE SURROUNDED BY OPULENT RESIDENCES THAT INCLUDED GRAND APARTMENTS AND STATE ROOMS 3EPARATING THE TWO ARE THE ORIGINAL HALL THE BUTTERY THE REMAINS OF THE CHAPEL AND THE DANK COLD CELLARS BELOW /FF &OUNTAIN #OURT THROUGH THE 3OUTH 'ATE IS THE PRISTINE BOWLING GREEN STANDING ON TWELVE FOOT HIGH WALLS ABOVE THE -OAT 7ALK AND REACHED BY A mIGHT OF STONE STEPS FROM THE GREEN 4HE MOATED YELLOW ASHLAR 'REAT 4OWER OFF &OUNTAIN #OURT MANIFESTS #ONTINENTAL INmUENCES IN ITS CONSTRUCTION AND HAS A SURPRISINGLY CONTEMPORARY APPEARANCE 4WO SIDES OF THE HEXAGONAL TOWER WERE BLOWN UP BY #ROMWELLS HENCHMAN &AIRFAX AFTER AN ELEVEN WEEK ONSLAUGHT AGAINST THE 2OYALIST CASTLE IN 4HE TOWER CAN STILL BE CLIMBED HOWEVER
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AFONCOUK AN ELEGANT AND GRACIOUS COUNTRY HOUSE lVE MINUTES WALK WEST OF TOWN -OST OF THE TOWN PUBS SERVE FOOD n THE BEST BEING THE +INGS (EAD ON /LD -ARKET 3TREET CLOSELY FOLLOWED BY THE .AGS (EAD IN 4WYN 3QUARE /THERWISE "RIDGE 3TREET IS LINED WITH SMALL CAFÏS DELIS AND THE EXCELLENT "USH (OUSE AT NO SERVING &RENCH -EDITERRANEAN AND 7ELSH DISHES WITH SEVERAL VEGETARIAN OPTIONS
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3CYTHING THE CITY IN TWO IS THE 2IVER 5SK DANK AND MUDDY AS THE TIDAL WATERS mOW DOWN TO THE 3EVERN ESTUARY THREE MILES AWAY 7EDGED IN BETWEEN THE RAIL AND MAIN ROAD BRIDGES ARE THE RISIBLE REMAINS OF THE TOWNS CASTLE lRST BUILT IN REBUILT IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY SACKED BY /WAIN 'LYND"R IN AND REFORTIlED LATER IN THE SAME CENTURY /N THE OTHER SIDE OF THE .EWPORT "RIDGE A WALKWAY LEADS ALONG THE RIVER BANK PAST 0ETER &INKS GIANT RED SCULPTURE 3TEEL 7AVE A NOD TO ONE OF .EWPORTS GREAT INDUSTRIES .EARBY BUILDING WORK IN ON THE NEW 2IVERFRONT ARTS CENTRE REVEALED THE REMAINS OF A MEDIEVAL SHIP BUILT IN AND CURRENTLY BEING RESTORED SEE LATEST PLANS ON WWWTHENEWPORTSHIPCOM 4HE PRIMARY ROUTE INTO THE CITY CENTRE PROPER IS UP THE PEDESTRIANIZED (IGH 3TREET WHICH SOON MEETS THE MAIN CROSSROADS AT 7ESTGATE 3QUARE (ERE STANDS THE 7ESTGATE (OTEL AN ORNATE 6ICTORIAN SUCCESSOR TO THE HOTEL WHERE SOLDIERS SPRAYED A CROWD OF #HARTIST PROTESTERS SEE BOX BELOW WITH GUNlRE IN KILLING NEARLY TWO DOZEN n THE HOTELS ORIGINAL PILLARS STILL SHOW BULLET MARKS #OMMERCIAL 3TREET LEADING SOUTH FROM 7ESTGATE 3QUARE IS .EWPORTS CHIEF SHOPPING THOROUGHFARE LINED WITH CHAIN STORES BUT BEAUTIFULLY FRAMING THE FAMOUS 4RANSPORTER "RIDGE SEE BELOW /NE HUNDRED YARDS ALONG #OMMERCIAL 3TREET THE PEDESTRIANIZED *OHN &ROST 3QUARE NAMED AFTER A FORMER MAYOR AND ONE OF THE #HARTIST LEADERS LIES TO THE LEFT 4HOUGH LITTLE MORE THAN AN UGLY S PRECINCT IT DOES CONTAIN THE DISTINCTLY QUIRKY .EWPORT CLOCK BUILT FOR THE 'ARDEN &ESTIVAL AT %BBW 6ALE WHICH ON THE HOUR SHUDDERS SHAKES SPITS SMOKES AND COMES NEAR TO APPARENT COLLAPSE )N FRONT OF THE CLOCK IS THE TOWNS LIBRARY TOURIST OFlCE AND IMAGINATIVE WELL PRESENTED CIVIC MUSEUM -ONn4HURS AMnPM &RI AMnPM 3AT
4065)& "458"- & 4
PARTICULARLY ALONG THE RIVER BY THE MONUMENTAL 4RANSPORTER "RIDGE THE SCANT RUINS OF THE RIVERSIDE CASTLE AND HIGH ON A HILL ABOVE TOWN THE CATHEDRAL OF 3T 7OOLOS 4HE SUPERB MUNICIPAL MUSEUM DRAWS TOGETHER THE STRINGS OF THE TOWNS VIBRANT PAST INCLUDING A MEMORABLE AND INFORMATIVE SECTION ON THE NINETEENTH CENTURY #HARTIST MOVEMENT FORMED TO lGHT FOR UNIVERSAL FRAN CHISE 4HE PEARL OF THE DISTRICT IS #AERLEON n THE hOLD PORTv ON THE 2IVER 5SK n NOW LITTLE MORE THAN A NORTHERN SUBURB OF THE TOWN ALTHOUGH IT PREDATES .EWPORT BY AT LEAST A THOUSAND YEARS )TS WELL PRESERVED REMAINS CONSTITUTE ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT 2OMAN MILITARY STATIONS IN "RITAIN THOUGH SOME VENER ATE IT MORE FOR ITS REPUTED ASSOCIATION WITH +ING !RTHUR
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AMnPM FREE 3TARTING WITH THE ORIGINS OF 'WENT THE DISPLAYS EXAMINE THE COUNTYS ORIGINAL OCCUPANTS AND THEIR LIFESTYLES AND INCLUDE A SECTION ON MINING WITH A ROLL CALL OF THOSE KILLED IN LOCAL PIT ACCIDENTS n MEN BETWEEN AND .EWPORTS SPECTACULAR GROWTH FROM A SMALL 5SKSIDE DOCK IN WITH A POPULATION OF TO A GRIMY PORT TOWN OF PEOPLE BY THE EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY IS WELL CHARTED THROUGH PHOTOGRAPHS PAINTINGS AND CONTEMPORARY DOCUMENTS 4HE TWO MOST INTERESTING SECTIONS DEAL WITH THE #HARTIST UPRISING AND THE 2OMAN MOSAIC REMAINS EXCAVATED AT #AERWENT 4HE TOP mOOR ART GALLERY CONTAINS THE 7AIT #OLLECTION OF %DWARDIAN KITSCH MOST NOTED FOR ITS THREE HUNDRED PLUS TEAPOTS IN ALL SHAPES AND SIZES "EFORE LEAVING *OHN &ROST 3QUARE WANDER ACROSS TO THE FAR SIDE TO SEE THE IMPRESSIVE #HARTIST MURAL WHICH OUTLINES THEIR MAIN GRIEVANCES ON BANNERS 4HE OTHER ROAD HEADING SOUTH FROM 7ESTGATE 3QUARE IS 3TOW (ILL ONE OF .EWPORTS FEW HANDSOME ROWS OF 6ICTORIAN AND 'EORGIAN TOWNHOUSES ! TEN MINUTE WALK UP THE HILL LEADS TO 3T 7OOLOS #ATHEDRAL A CURIOUS JIGSAW OF ARCHITECTURAL STYLES AND PERIODS 4HE TINY WHITEWASHED TWELFTH CENTURY ,ADY #HAPEL LEADS THROUGH A SUPERB .ORMAN ARCHED DOORWAY n SUPPORTED BY COLUMNS REPUTEDLY OF 2OMAN ORIGIN FROM #AERLEON n INTO THE .ORMAN NAVE NOTABLE FOR ITS CLERESTORY WINDOWS BOUNDED BY TWO lFTEENTH CENTURY AISLES 3PORTING A CIRCULAR EAST WINDOW IN A SWIRL OF AUTUMN COLOURS LOCKED IN A MARBLED ROUND HEADED ARCH THAT HARKS BACK TO THE .ORMAN FEATURES THE MODERN EAST END OF THE CATHEDRAL HARMONIZES WELL WITH THE REST OF THE BUILDING $OMINATING THE .EWPORT SKYLINE IS THE 4RANSPORTER "RIDGE !PRILn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM /CTn-ARCH -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM CAR TOLL P FREE FOR CYCLISTS AND PEDESTRIANS BUILT TO ENABLE CARS AND PEOPLE TO CROSS THE RIVER WITHOUT DISTURBING THE SHIPPING BY HOISTING THEM HIGH ABOVE THE 5SK ON A PRISTINE BLUE DANGLING PLATFORM )TS COMICAL SPIDERY LEGS mARE OUT TO THE GROUND CONNECTING "RUNEL 3TREET ON THE WEST BANK AND 3TEPHENSON 3TREET OPPOSITE %CCENTRIC IT MAY BE BUT THE RIDE IS SMOOTH AND THE TWO MINUTE CROSSING HAS SUCCESSFULLY CUT COMMUTING TIMES FOR SOME SINCE THE BRIDGE WAS REOPENED IN THE MID S ! SMALL VISITOR CENTRE !PRILn3EPT 7EDn3AT BANK HOLIDAYS AMnPM 3UN nPM /CTn-ARCH 3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM ON THE RIVERS WEST BANK ELABORATES ON THE BRIDGES HISTORY 5SFEFHBS)PVTF
"USES AND GO TWO MILES OUT TO THE WESTERLY SUBURBS OF .EWPORT AND TO 4REDEGAR (OUSE HOUSE %ASTERn3EPT 7EDn3UN AMnPM PARK DAILY AMnDUSK HOUSE TOUR GARDENS a JUST OFF JUNCTION OF THE - 4HE HOME OF WEALTHY LOCAL LANDOWNERS THE -ORGAN FAMILY FROM UNTIL 4REDEGAR AND ITS GROUNDS HAVE BEEN TRANSFORMED INTO A RECREATION PARK COMPLETE WITH BOATING AND lSHING LAKE AND CRAFT WORKSHOPS 4HE HOUSE ITSELF IS AN UNASSUMING SEVENTEENTH CENTURY PILE IN WARM RED BRICK BUILT TO REPLACE THE -ORGANS EARLIER HOME )TS INTERIOR IS LAVISH WITH SOME THIRTY ROOMS OPEN -OST MEMORABLE IS THE lRST mOOR 'ILT 2OOM AN EXPLOSION OF GLITTERING FRUIT BOSSES AN INTRICATE GILDED MARBLE lREPLACE MOCK WALNUT PANELLING AND AN ELABORATELY PAINTED GOLD STUCCO CEILING 4HE FORMAL WALLED GARDENS BEHIND THE HOUSEKEEPERS SHOP ARE BEING RELAID IN PATTERNS CULLED FROM EIGHTEENTH CENTURY DESIGNS
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.EWPORTS TOURIST OFlCE IS IN THE MUSEUM COMPLEX ON *OHN &ROST 3QUARE -ONn3AT AMnPM NEWPORTTIC NEWPORTGOVUK A
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HUNDRED YARDS FROM THE BUS STATION ON +INGSWAY AND A QUARTER MILE FROM THE TRAIN STATION ON 1UEENSWAY 4HE RANGE OF ACCOMMODATION IN .EWPORT IS LIMITED AND YOU MIGHT PREFER TO STAY IN NEARBY #AERLEON )F YOU WANT TO BE CENTRAL THE (OTEL 7ALKABOUT FORMERLY THE 1UEENS (OTEL "RIDGE 3T WWWWALKABOUT EUCOM IS MODERN AND REASONABLE IF PRETTY NOISY AT TIMES &OR "" THERES THE CHEAP AND FAIRLY CHEERFUL #RAIGNAIR AT #ORPORATION 2D AND THE GENTEEL 3T %TIENNE 3TOW (ILL !T THE WESTERN END OF "RIDGE 3TREET #AERAU 2OAD RISES UP SHARPLY TO THE SOUTH PASSING THE RELAXED HOSPITABLE +EPE ,ODGE AT NO A .EWPORTS RITZIEST HOTEL IS THE lVE STAR #ELTIC -ANOR WWW CELTIC MANORCOM HIGH ABOVE JUNCTION OF THE - AT THE EASTERN APPROACH TO THE CITY 7ITH ITS ACCOMPANYING GOLF COURSE THE HOTEL HAS BEEN CHOSEN AS THE VENUE FOR THE 2YDER #UP IN &OR A MORE ETHEREAL STAY THE 7EST 5SK ,IGHTHOUSE WWWWESTUSKLIGHTHOUSECOUK OFFERS STRIKINGLY UNUSUAL "" TOGETHER WITH A mOATATION TANK AND ALL MANNER OF HOLISTIC THERAPIES )TS AT THE MOUTH OF THE 5SK ON THE WESTERN BANK BEYOND THE SUBURB OF $UFFRYN 4HERES A CAMPSITE AT 4REDEGAR (OUSE SEE ABOVE a PER PITCH 4HERE ARE LOTS OF CHAIN FOOD OUTLETS ALONG "RIDGE AND #OMMERCIAL STREETS BUT DOWNTOWN IS PRETTY MUCH A CULINARY DESERT 4HE #HANDLERY ON THE EDGE OF THE CITY CENTRE AT ,OWER $OCK 3T IS A SMART NEW CITY RESTAURANT THAT CAN BE EXCELLENT ALTHOUGH IT SOMETIMES SEEMS LIKE A TRIUMPH OF STYLE OVER SUBSTANCE &RATELLIS AT #AERLEON 2D CLOSED 3UN -ON IS EASILY THE lNEST OF THE CITYS MANY )TALIAN RESTAURANTS &OR COFFEE AND A LIGHT SNACK TRY THE /RIEL CAFÏ ON THE TOP mOOR OF THE MUSEUM FROM WHERE YOU CAN VIEW THE HOURLY ANTICS OF THE .EWPORT #LOCK 3TYLISH SNACKS ARE AVAILABLE THROUGHOUT THE DAY AT THE TRENDY -EZE ,OUNGE BAR -ARKET 3T WHICH BECOMES A VENUE FOR LIVE MUSIC AND $*S IN THE EVENING $ESPITE THE PROFUSION OF PUBS NONE IS TERRIBLY SPECIAL THE /LDE -URENGER (OUSE ON THE (IGH 3TREET IS ONE OF THE BEST WITH A BEAUTIFUL 4UDOR FRONTAGE AND A RECENTLY REFURBISHED INTERIOR /THERWISE TRY 7ETHERSPOONS ENORMOUS 4OM 4OYA ,EWIS AT #OMMERCIAL 3T THE COSY ,AMB AT "RIDGE 3T OR THE RAUCOUS BIKERS BAR THE (ORNBLOWER AT #OMMERCIAL 3T .EWPORT IS ONE OF THE CENTRES OF THE BUOYANT 7ELSH ROCK AND DANCE MUSIC SCENE n THIS IS AFTER ALL THE CITY THAT PRODUCED GLORIOUSLY DAFT HIP HOP OUTlT 'OLDIE ,OOKIN #HAIN 4HE LEGENDARY TRY OUT PUB VENUE 4*S OVER THE RIVER FROM THE CASTLE AT #LARENCE 0LACE WWWTJS NEWPORT DEMONCOUK HAS SEEN BETTER DAYS BUT IS STILL WORTH CHECKING OUT &OR LATE NIGHT DANCING TRY THE YOUTHFUL 6OODOO ON "RIDGE 3TREET THE OLDER :ANZIBAR AT 3TOW (ILL THE STUDENTY #OTTON #LUB ON #AMBRIAN 2OAD OR THE MORE CHILLED OUT -EZE ,OUNGE SEE ABOVE
$BFSMFPO &REQUENT BUSES WIND THEIR WAY ALONG THE THREE MILE JOURNEY NORTH OF .EWPORT TO #!%2,%/. #AERLLION WHOSE COMPACT TOWN CENTRE IS SITUATED TO THE NORTHWEST OF THE TOWN BRIDGE OVER THE 2IVER 5SK 4HE REMNANTS OF THE 2OMAN TOWN LIE SCATTERED THROUGHOUT THE PRESENT DAY CENTRE )T WAS THE 5SK 7YSG THAT GAVE #AERLEON ITS OLD 2OMAN NAME OF )SCA A MAJOR ADMINISTRATIVE AND LEGIONARY CENTRE BUILT BY THE 2OMANS TO PROVIDE ANCILLARY AND MILITARY SERVICES FOR SMALLER OUTLYING CAMPS IN THE REST OF SOUTH
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7ALES )TS ONLY NEAR EQUIVALENTS IN 2OMAN "RITAIN WERE #HESTER SERVICING NORTH 7ALES AND NORTHWEST %NGLAND AND 9ORK DEALING WITH THE 2OMAN OUTPOSTS UP TOWARDS (ADRIANS 7ALL AND BEYOND &OUNDED IN !$ AND LASTING UNTIL ITS ABANDONMENT LATE IN THE FOURTH CENTURY )SCA WAS A GARRISON HOUSING UP TO SIX THOUSAND MEMBERS OF THE 3ECOND !UGUSTAN ,EGION IN A NEAT RECTANGULAR WALLED TOWN !LTHOUGH THE SETTLEMENT FELL GRADUALLY INTO DECAY AFTER THE 2OMANS LEFT THERE WERE STILL SOME MASSIVE REMAINS STANDING WHEN ITINERANT CHURCHMAN AND CHRONICLER 'IRALDUS #AMBRENSIS VISITED IN )N HIS EFFUSIVE WRITING ABOUT THE REMAINS HE NOTED WITH EVIDENT RELISH THE hIMMENSE PALACES WHICH WITH THE GILDED GABLES OF THEIR ROOFS ONCE RIVALLED THE MAGNIlCENCE OF ANCIENT 2OMEv !LTHOUGH TIME HAS HAD AN INEVITABLY CORROSIVE EFFECT ON THE REMAINS SINCE 'IRALDUS TIME THE EXCAVATED BATH HOUSE AND PRESERVED AMPHITHEATRE STILL RETAIN A POWERFUL SENSE OF ANCIENT HISTORY !T THE BACK OF THE "ULL )NN CAR PARK ARE THE 2OMAN FORTRESS BATHS %ASTERn /CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn%ASTER -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM a #!$7 4HE BATHING HOUSES COLD HALL DRAIN IN WHICH TEETH BUTTONS AND FOOD REMNANTS WERE FOUND AND COMMUNAL POOL AREA ARE REMARKABLY INTACT AND BEAUTIFULLY PRESENTED USING AUDIOVISUAL EQUIPMENT SOUND COMMENTARY AND MODELS ! FEW STEPS ALONG THE (IGH 3TREET A 6ICTORIAN .EOCLASSICAL PORTICO IS THE SOLE SURVIVOR OF THE ORIGINAL ,EGIONARY -USEUM -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM FREE NOW HOUSED IN THE MODERN BUILDING BEHIND 4HERE ARE HUNDREDS OF ARTEFACTS DUG FROM THE REMAINS OF )SCA AND A SMALLER FORTRESS AT NEARBY "URRIUM 5SK 4HESE INCLUDE INTRICATELY CARVED GEMSTONES LAMPS TOOLS DENTAL EQUIPMENT BELT BUCKLES SOLDIERS AMULETS DICE GAME COUNTERS AND PERSONAL HYGIENE ITEMS SUCH AS TWEEZERS AND NAIL CLEANERS 4HE MUSEUMS NEW
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#APRICORN #ENTRE ALTHOUGH AIMED SQUARELY AT SCHOOL PARTIES IS INTERESTING FOR THE RE CREATED 2OMAN BARRACKS WHERE YOU CAN TRY ON A TYPICAL SOLDIERS ARMOUR /PPOSITE THE ,EGIONARY -USEUM &OSSE ,ANE LEADS DOWN TO THE HUGELY ATMOSPHERIC 2OMAN AMPHITHEATRE UNRESTRICTED ACCESS THE ONLY ONE OF ITS KIND PRESERVED IN "RITAIN (IDDEN UNDER A GRASSY MOUND CALLED +ING !RTHURS 2OUND 4ABLE UNTIL EXCAVATION WORK BROUGHT IT TO LIGHT IN THE S THE AMPHI THEATRE WAS BUILT AROUND !$ THE SAME TIME AS THE #OLOSSEUM IN 2OME LEGIONS OF UP TO SIX THOUSAND WOULD TAKE SEATS TO WATCH THE GORY COMBAT OF GLADIATORS ANIMAL BAITING OR MILITARY EXERCISES 4HE AMPHITHEATRE IS BACKED BY GRASSY STEPPED WALLS ON WHICH THE MEMBERS OF THE LEGION WOULD SIT TIGHTLY PACKED IN TO WATCH ACTIVITIES IN THE MIDDLE /VER THE ROAD ALONGSIDE THE SCHOOL PLAYING lELDS ARE THE SCANT FOUNDATIONS OF THE LEGIONS BARRACKS 4HE BELIEF THAT #AERLEON WAS THE SEAT OF +ING !RTHURS COURT IS A LONG STANDING ONE ,ORD 4ENNYSON CAME HERE TO RESEARCH THE RUMOURS AND TODAY YOU CAN DO NO BETTER THAN WANDER AROUND THE SUBLIME &FWRRWM #ENTRE MOST SHOPS DAILY AMnPM OFF THE (IGH 3TREET AND TALK TO THE VARIOUS TRADERS THERE WHO SUBSCRIBE PASSIONATELY TO THE BELIEF 7HATEVER THE &FWRRWM IS A VERY SPECIAL PLACE STUNNING COURTYARD SCULPTURES DRAW THEIR INSPIRATION FROM ANCIENT #ELTIC AND !RTHURIAN LORE SURROUNDED BY SOME GREAT CRAFT AND .EW !GE SHOPS AND A WONDERFUL CAFÏ CUM BISTRO .EAR THE ENTRANCE TO THE COMPLEX YOU CAN EVEN CLASP THE GOLD HORNS OF A 7ELSH FERTILITY BULL AN ACT THAT IS SUPPOSED TO LEND YOU UNTOLD POWERS OF PROCREATION 1SBDUJDBMJUJFT
#AERLEONS TOURIST OFlCE DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM .OVn-ARCH AMn PM CAERLEONTIC NEWPORTGOVUK IS BESIDE THE LEGIONARY MUSEUM ON (IGH 3TREET -ORE ESOTERIC INFORMATION CAN BE FOUND IN THE VARIOUS OUTLETS IN THE &FWRRWM #ENTRE SEE ABOVE NOTABLY IN THE GATESIDE ANTIQUE SHOP AND THE !WEN #ELTIC 3PIRIT SHOP
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3TAYING IN #AERLEON IS A MORE AMENABLE OPTION THAN NEARBY .EWPORT 4HERES CENTRAL "" AT 0ENDRAGON (OUSE #ROSS 3T AND THE FRACTIONALLY PRICIER 'REAT (OUSE ON )SCA 2OAD 4HERE ARE SURPRISINGLY GOOD ROOMS AT THE #AERLEON CAMPUS OF 5NIVERSITY 7ALES #OLLEGE .EWPORT LATE *UNE TO MID 3EPT lFTEEN MINUTES WEST ALONG (IGH 3TREET PAST THE ,EGIONARY -USEUM WHICH ALSO OFFERS DIRT CHEAP SELF CATERING ROOMS IN STUDENT mATS FOR A MINIMUM LET OF A COUPLE OF NIGHTS )F YOUR BUDGETS HIGHER THE PLUSH 0RIORY (OTEL OPPOSITE THE BATHS ON -AIN 3TREET IS A lNE CHOICE 4HE BEST PLACE TO EAT IS THE /RIEL BISTRO IN THE &FWRRWM COURTYARD WITH OUTDOOR SEATING IN SUMMER AND A ROARING lRE IN WINTER )TS NORMALLY A DAYTIME VENUE BUT WILL OPEN IN THE EVENINGS FOR GROUP BOOKINGS IF CALLED IN ADVANCE #AERLEON WHICH HAS FAST BECOME THE TRENDY DRINKING ZONE FOR .EWPORT IS PACKED WITH PUBS MANY OF WHICH ARE HUMDRUM CHAIN AFFAIRS -ORE ENJOYABLE ARE THE /LDE "ULL )NN ON (IGH 3TREET GOOD FOR FOOD DRINK AND LIVE ENTERTAINMENT AND THE (ANBURY !RMS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE ROAD ABOVE THE RIVER WHICH WAS ,ORD 4ENNYSONS BASE IN #AERLEON
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.O OTHER PART OF 7ALES IS AS INSTANTLY RECOGNIZABLE AS THE 6ALLEYS A GENERIC NAME FOR THE STRING OF SETTLEMENTS PACKED INTO THE NARROW CRACKS IN THE MOUN TAINOUS TERRAIN TO THE NORTH OF .EWPORT #ARDIFF AND 3WANSEA #OMING THROUGH -ONMOUTHSHIRE THE CHANGE FROM ROLLING COUNTRYSIDE TO SHARP CONTOURS AND A POST INDUSTRIAL LANDSCAPE IS ALMOST INSTANTANEOUS THOUGH THE GREENERY EVIDENT TODAY IS A FAR CRY FROM THE SLAG HEAPS AND SOOT ENCRUSTED BUILDINGS OF THIRTY OR MORE YEARS AGO %ACH OF THE VALLEYS DEPENDED ALMOST SOLELY ON COAL MINING AND THOUGH ITS MORE OR LESS DEFUNCT TODAY THE INDUSTRY HAS LEFT ITS MARK ON THE STAUNCHLY WORKING CLASS TOWNS WHERE ROW UPON ROW OF BRIGHTLY PAINTED TERRACED HOUSING TIPPED ALONG THE SLOPES AT SOME INCREDIBLE ANGLES ARE BROKEN ONLY BY AUSTERE CHAPELS THE OCCA SIONAL REMAINING PITHEAD OR THE MINERS OLD INSTITUTES AND DRINKING CLUBS 4HIS IS NOT TRADITIONAL TOURIST COUNTRY AND YET IS WITHOUT DOUBT ONE OF THE MOST INTERESTING AND DISTINCTIVE CORNERS OF 7ALES 3OME OF THE FORMER MINES HAVE REOPENED AS GUTSY AND HARD HITTING MUSEUMS WITH "IG 0IT AT "LAENAFON AND THE 2HONDDA (ERITAGE 0ARK AT 4REHAFOD BEING THE MOST ABSORBING /THER CIVIC MUSEUMS AT 0ONTYPOOL 0ONTYPRIDD !BERDARE AND -ERTHYR 4YDlL HAVE GROWN UP OVER DECADES CHRONICLING THE LIVES AND ALL TOO FREQUENTLY THE DEATHS OF MINERS AND THEIR FAMILIES ! FEW OLDER SITES SUCH AS VAST #AERPHILLY #ASTLE AND THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY MANOR HOUSE OF ,LANCAIACH &AWR HAVE BEEN ATTRACTING VISITORS FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS "UT IT IS BEYOND THE MAINSTREAM SIGHTS THAT THE VISITOR CAN GAIN A MORE ROUNDED IMPRESSION OF VALLEY LIFE WHETHER IN THE 5TOPIAN WORKERS VILLAGE AT "UTETOWN THE DILAPIDATED ROUNDHOUSES AT .ANTYGLO FORTIlED AGAINST AN ANTICIPATED WORKERS UPRISING THE IRON GRAVE STONES OF "LAENAFON THE DIGNIlED MEMORIALS FOUND IN ALMOST EVERY COMMU NITY TO THOSE WHO DIED UNDERGROUND OR IN THE HEART RENDING CASE OF !BERFAN WHEN A LOOSE SLAG TIP BURIED A PRIMARY SCHOOL AND NEARLY PEOPLE IN 3OUTH 7ALES PERHAPS MORE THAN ANY OTHER PART OF "RITAIN DEMONSTRATES THE TRUE COST OF BEING THE WORLDS lRST INDUSTRIALIZED NATION .OW MUCH CLEANED UP THE 6ALLEYS COMBINE UNIQUE SOCIOLOGICAL AND HUMAN INTEREST WITH STAGGERING BEAUTY IN THE SHEER HILLS THAT RISE BEHIND EACH COMMUNITY
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!S A RESULT OF THE FORMIDABLE TERRAIN EACH VALLEY WAS ALMOST ENTIRELY ISOLATED #ANALS ROADS AND TRAIN LINES COMPETED FOR SPACE ALONG THE VALLEY mOOR PETER ING OUT AS THE CONTOURS BECAME UNTAMEABLE AT THE UPPER END .OT UNTIL THE S WERE ANY CONNECTING ROADS BUILT AND EVEN TODAY TRANSPORT IS FREQUENTLY RESTRICTED TO THE VALLEY BOTTOMS WITH ROADS AND TRAIN LINES RADIATING OUT THROUGH THE SOUTH 7ALES COALlELD LIKE SPOKES ON A GIANT WHEEL &OR A GOOD MIX OF URBAN AND RURAL THE 6ALLEYS OFFER ONE OF THE BEST AREAS OF 7ALES FOR AN UNFORGETTABLE WALKING HOLIDAY 0ATHS ARE BEST ON THE HIGH RIDGES BETWEEN VALLEYS 4HIS SECTION COVERS THE -ONMOUTHSHIRE AND 'LAMORGAN VALLEYS FROM 0ONTY POOL IN THE EAST TO #WM !FAN AND 0ORT 4ALBOT IN THE WEST &OR THE ACCOUNT OF THE 6ALE OF .EATH SEE P 4PNFIJTUPSZ
4HE LAND BENEATH THE INHOSPITABLE HILLS OF THE SOUTH 7ALES VALLEYS HAD SOME OF THE MOST ABUNDANT AND ACCESSIBLE NATURAL SEAMS OF COAL AND IRON ORE IN THE WORLD READILY MILKED IN THE BOOM YEARS OF THE NINETEENTH AND EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURIES )N MANY INSTANCES WEALTHY %NGLISH CAPITALISTS CAME TO 7ALES AND RUTH LESSLY STRIPPED THE LAND OF ITS NATURAL ASSETS WHILE PAYING PALTRY AMOUNTS TO THOSE WHO RISKED LIFE AND LIMB IN THE MINES 4HE MINE OWNERS WERE IN A FORMIDABLY STRONG POSITION n THOUSANDS OF 7ELSH PEASANTS BOLSTERED BY THEIR )RISH 3COTTISH AND )TALIAN PEERS mOCKED TO THE 6ALLEYS IN SEARCH OF WORK AND SOME SORT OF SUSTAINABLE LIFE 4HE 6ALLEYS n VIRTUALLY UNPOPULATED AT THE START OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY n BECAME BLACKENED WITH SOOT AND PACKED WITH PEOPLE PITS AND CHAPELS BY THE BEGINNING OF THE TWENTIETH )N THERE WERE MEN WORKING IN THE MINES OF THE SOUTH 7ALES COALlELD PROVIDING ONE THIRD OF THE WORLDS COAL RESOURCES 6AST -INERS )NSTITUTES PAID FOR BY A WAGES LEVY JOSTLED FOR POSITION WITH THE .ONCONFORM IST CHAPELS WHOSE MUSCULAR BRAND OF #HRISTIANITY WAS MATCHED BY THE ZEAL OF THE REGIONS POLITICS TRADE UNION LED AND AVOWEDLY LEFT WING 'REAT SOCIALIST ORATORS ROSE TO NATIONAL PROMINENCE CEMENTING THE 6ALLEYS REPUTATION AS A WORLD APART FROM THE REST OF 7ALES LET ALONE "RITAIN %VEN "RITAINS PIONEERING .ATIONAL (EALTH 3ERVICE FOUNDED BY A RADICAL ,ABOUR GOVERNMENT IN THE YEARS FOLLOWING 7ORLD 7AR )) WAS BASED ON A 6ALLEYS COMMUNITY SCHEME BY LOCALLY BORN !NEURIN "EVAN 4HE 6ALLEYS DECLINE HAS TAKEN PLACE IN RAPID BURSTS WITH OVER HALF OF THE ORIGINAL PITS CLOSING IN THE HARSH ECONOMIC CLIMATE OF THE S 7ORLD 7AR )) SAW A BRIEF RESPITE IN THE CLOSURE PROGRAMME WHICH CONTINUED EVEN MORE SWIFTLY IN THE YEARS IMMEDIATELY AFTER !S COAL SEAMS HAVE BEEN EXHAUSTED AND THE POLITICAL CLIMATE HAS SHIFTED THE NUMBER OF MEN EMPLOYED IN THE INDUSTRY HAS DIPPED DOWN INTO FOUR lGURES PRECIPITATED BY THE AFTERMATH OF THE n MINERS STRIKE .O COALlELD WAS AS SOLIDLY BEHIND THE STRIKE AS SOUTH 7ALES WHOSE WORKERS AND FAMILIES RESPONDED WHOLEHEARTEDLY TO THE CALL TO DEFEND THE INDUSTRY WHICH THEIR TRADE UNION THE .ATIONAL 5NION OF -INEWORKERS .5- CLAIMED WAS ON THE BRINK OF BEING DECIMATED 4HE YEAR LONG WAR OF ATTRITION BETWEEN THE 4HATCHER GOVERNMENT AND !RTHUR 3CARGILLS .5- WAS BITTER lNALLY SEEING THE GOVERNMENT VICTORIOUS AS THE NUMBER OF MINERS RETURNING TO WORK OUTNUMBERED THOSE STAYING OUT ON STRIKE /VER TWENTY YEARS ON AND ALL BUT ONE OF THE SOUTH 7ALES PITS HAVE CLOSED THE SOLE SURVIVOR HAVING BEEN REPRIEVED IN AND RUN AS A WORKERS CO OPERATIVE EVER SINCE 4HE 6ALLEYS WITHOUT COAL SEEMED UNTHINKABLE BUT NONETHELESS SOME OF THE LARGER BETTER POPULATED VALLEYS HAVE STAGED CONSIDERABLE RECOVERIES HIGH TECH INDUSTRIES HAVE MOVED INTO INDUSTRIAL ESTATES HEWN OUT OF SMOOTHED OUT SLAG HEAPS MUSEUMS HAVE BEEN ESTABLISHED AT THE OLD PIT SITES AND CIVIC AMENITIES
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4HE lRST IDENTIlABLY 6ALLEYS TOWN n ALTHOUGH NEVER A COAL MINING CENTRE n HEADING WEST IS 0/.490//, 0ONTYP"L ON THE ,LWYD 2IVER THAT WINDS UP FROM THE 5SK AT #AERLEON ! SPRAWLING HILLY TOWN ITS HARDLY LIKELY TO KEEP YOU BUSY FOR LONG ALTHOUGH ITS WORTH lNDING TIME FOR A SHORT STOP AT THE 0ONTYPOOL -USEUM -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN nPM a FREE 7ED 3UN HOUSED IN A 'EORGIAN STABLE BLOCK AT THE WESTERN ENTRANCE OF 0ONTYPOOL 0ARK 4HE BUILDING WAS PART OF THE ESTATE OF A MANSION BELONGING TO THE (ANBURY FAMILY LOCAL LANDOWNERS AND INDUSTRIAL PIONEERS AND THE MUSEUM CASTS A WIDE NET OVER THE TOWNS HISTORY AND TRADES ALL OF WHICH SEEMS TO HAVE SPRUNG FROM THIS ONE FAMILY &OUNDING FATHER 2ICHARD (ANBURY n THE EXHIBITION DRYLY NOTES WAS A TRUE ENTREPRENEUR hBUT ON OCCASION HIS ENTER PRISE LED TO PRISON SENTENCES FOR FRAUDv 4HE (ANBURYS ESTABLISHED 0ONTYPOOLS STAPLE TINPLATE MAKING INDUSTRY WHICH LED IN TURN TO ELABORATE JAPANNING OF WHICH THE MUSEUM HAS MANY EXAMPLES AND THENCE TO IRONWORKING 4HE MUSEUM MAKES A GOOD STARTING POINT FOR A STIFF BUT SHORT HIKE UP THROUGH THE PARK TO A COUPLE OF PRODUCTS OF 6ICTORIAN WHIMSY BOTH -AY TO EARLY 3EPT 3AT 3UN BANK HOLIDAYS nPM FREE THE 3HELL 'ROTTO MIN WITH ITS INTERIOR COMPLETELY PLASTERED IN MOLLUSCS AND THE MORE TRADITIONAL &OLLY 4OWER MIN FURTHER 0ONTYPOOLS HANDSOME TOWN CENTRE IS A STONES THROW FROM THE MUSEUM OVER THE RIVER AND UP ONTO THE MAIN SHOPPING STREETS 4HE MARKET HALL HERE IS GREAT FOR FRESH FOOD AND SOME ODDBALL STALLS 4HE TRAIN STATION IS INCONVENIENTLY SITUATED OVER A MILE TO THE EAST OF THE TOWN CENTRE MAKING BUSES WHICH STOP BY THE HANDSOME 6ICTORIAN TOWN HALL A FAR BETTER OPTION 4HE HOURLY -ONn3AT SERVICE WILL TAKE YOU TO 'RIFlTH STOWN A MILE SOUTH OF THE TOWN CENTRE HOME OF A SUPERB RAILWAY MUSEUM DAILY AM PM a ON 3TATION 2OAD (OUSED IN AN OLD GOODS SHED THE MUSEUM IS ONE MANS LIFE COLLECTION OF MEMORABILIA MAINLY FROM THE EXTENSIVE LOCAL NETWORK MOST OF WHICH HAS LONG GONE 4OGETHER WITH HIS OWN MODEL RAILWAY UPSTAIRS ITS FASCINATING STUFF )F YOU WANT TO STAY ROUND THESE PARTS THERES A LOVELY FARMHOUSE "" IN THE VILLAGE OF -!-(),!$ A COUPLE OF MILES NORTH OF 0ONTYPOOL BY THE -ONMOUTH "RECON #ANAL 4$ #OOKE &ARM IS A GREAT BASE AND HANDY FOR THE VILLAGES WONDERFUL 3TAR )NN
4065)& "458"- & 4
SUCH AS SPORTS AND ARTS CENTRES ARE SPRINGING UP ALL OVER THE PLACE 4HE 6ALLEYS PROXIMITY TO 7ALES BIG CITIES HAS BROUGHT IN NEW MONEY PARTICULARLY IN PROP ERTY IN THE EVER SMARTER TOWNS 7ELL HEELED CITY COMMUTERS ARE THICK ON THE GROUND THESE DAYS AS CAN BE SEEN IN THE mASHY NEW PUBS RESTAURANTS AND UBIQ UITOUS 4ESCO SUPERSTORES EMERGING THROUGHOUT THE AREA
#MBFOBGPOBOEBSPVOE 2OAD AND RIVER CONTINUE SIX MILES NORTH FROM 0ONTYPOOL TO THE IRON AND COAL TOWN OF ",!%.!&/. OR "LAENAVON AT THE SOURCE OF THE ,LWYD 2IVER 7ITH A LOFTY HILLSIDE POSITION MAKING IT FEEL FAR LESS CLAUSTROPHOBIC "LAENAFON HAS A VERY DIFFERENT FEEL TO MANY VALLEY TOWNS BUT ITS DECLINE IS TESTIlED BY A POPULATION OF LITTLE MORE THAN A THIRD OF ITS NINETEENTH CENTURY SIZE )TS A SPIRITED AND EVOCATIVE PLACE A FACT RECOGNIZED WHEN IT GAINED 5.%3#/ 7ORLD (ERITAGE 3ITE STATUS IN 4HE TOWNS 6ICTORIAN BOOM CAN BE SEEN IN ITS ARCHITECTURE MOST NOTABLY THE IMPRESSIVELY mORID 7ORKING -ENS (ALL THAT DOMINATES THE TOWN CENTRE AND WHERE MINERS WOULD PAY A HALFPENNY A
4065)& "458"- & 4
]5IF7BMMFZT
WEEK FOR THE USE OF THE LIBRARY AND OTHER RECREATIONAL AND EDUCATIONAL FACILITIES 4HE PARISH CHURCH OF 3T 0ETER IS A GOOD EXAMPLE OF WHAT BECAME KNOWN AS %NGINEHOUSE #HURCHES n AN ENGINEHOUSE BEING THE SOLE TYPE OF BUILDING FAMILIAR TO LOCAL MASONS )F ITS OPEN WANDER IN TO SEE THE TOMB COVERS PILLARS AND EVEN THE FONT ALL FASHIONED OUT OF IRON /N ONE DAY IN *UNE NINE NEW BOOKSHOPS OPENED IN "LAENAFON PART OF A LOCAL DRIVE TO ESTABLISH THE PLACE AS 7ALES NEWEST BOOK TOWN !LTHOUGH ITS NOT A PATCH ON THE VARIETY YOULL lND IN (AY ON 7YE "LAENAFON IS A GREAT STOP FOR BIBLIOPHILES WITH THE SHOPS COVERING A WIDE RANGE OF SPECIALISMS &OR MORE DETAILS VISIT THE WEBSITE WWWBOOKTOWNBLAENAFONCOM OR WHEN IN TOWN CALL IN AT "LAENAFON "OOKS n "ROAD 3T -ONn3AT AMnPM "LAENAFONS TOURIST OFlCE JUST OFF THE "RYNMAWR 2OAD %ASTERn/CT -ONn &RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM WWWBLAENAVONTICCOM SHARES A BUILDING WITH THE TOWNS IRONWORKS SAME HOURS AND PHONE a GROUP TOURS ALL YEAR MINIMUM a #!$7 4HOUGH THE WORKS WERE FOUNDED IN IRON SMELTING IN THIS AREA DATES FROM THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY ,IMESTONE COAL AND IRON ORE n INGREDIENTS FOR SUCCESSFUL IRON SMELTING n WERE LOCALLY ABUNDANT AND DURING THE EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY THE "LAENAFON WORKS GREW TO BECOME ONE OF THE LARGEST IN "RITAIN lNALLY CLOSING IN 4HE REMAINS OF THE SITE OFFER A THOROUGH PICTURE BOTH OF THE PROCESS TO PRODUCE IRON AND THE WORKERS LIFESTYLES THAT WENT WITH IT !T THE MUSEUM HOUSED IN THE 3TACK 3QUARE COTTAGES BUILT FOR THE FOREMEN AND CRAFTSMEN BETWEEN AND THERE ARE EXHIBITIONS ON THE HISTORY OF IRON AND STEEL MAKING IN THE ,LWYD 6ALLEY #JH1JU
*UST AS IT IS NOW POSSIBLE TO VISIT THE SCENE OF "LAENAFONS IRON INDUSTRY THE TOWNS DEFUNCT COAL TRADE HAS ALSO BEEN SMOOTHLY TRANSFORMED INTO A TOURIST ATTRACTION THE "IG 0IT .ATIONAL -INING -USEUM MID &EBn.OV DAILY AMnPM LAST UNDERGROUND TOUR PM FREE LIES THREE QUARTERS OF A MILE WEST OF THE TOWN IN WIDE OPEN COUNTRYSIDE A HALF HOURLY SHUTTLE BUS RUNS FROM "LAENAFON 4HE COLLIERY CLOSED EXACTLY A CENTURY AFTER ITS OPENING /F ALL THE MINING MUSEUMS IN SOUTH 7ALES "IG 0IT BRINGS THE VISITOR CLOSEST TO THE EXPERIENCE OF A MINERS WORK AND LIFE AS YOU DESCEND FT KITTED OUT WITH LAMP HELMET AND VERY HEAVY BATTERY PACK INTO THE LABYRINTH OF SHAFTS AND COAL FACES FOR A GUIDED TOUR 4HE GUIDES n MOST OF WHOM ARE EX MINERS n LEAD YOU THROUGH EXPLANATIONS AND EXAMPLES OF THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF COAL MINING FROM THE OLD STACK AND PILLAR OPERATION WHERE MINERS WOULD MANUALLY HACK INTO THE COAL FACE BEFORE PROPPING UP THE CEILING WITH A WOODEN BEAM TO MORE MODERN MECHANICALLY WORKED SEAMS #ONSTANT STREAMS OF RUST COLOURED WATER mOW BY ADDING TO THE DANK AND CHILLY ATMOSPHERE THAT MUST HAVE TERRIlED THE SMALL CHILDREN WHO WERE ONCE PAID TWOPENCE FOR A SIX DAY WEEK OF WHICH ONE PENNY WAS SUBTRACTED FOR THE COST OF THEIR CANDLES PULLING THE COAL WAGONS ALONG THE TRACKS "ACK ON THE SURFACE THE OLD PITHEAD BATHS BLACKSMITHS MINERS CANTEEN AND WINDING ENGINE HOUSE HAVE ALL BEEN PRESERVED AND lLLED WITH SOME FASCINATING DISPLAYS ABOUT THE LOCAL AND SOUTH 7ALES MINING INDUSTRIES INCLUDING A SERIES OF CHARACTERISTICALLY FEISTY TESTIMONIES FROM THE MINERS MADE REDUNDANT HERE IN "LAENAFON MAKES A GREAT BASE FOR EXPLORING THE AREA WITH GOOD "" ACCOM MODATION AT THE SMART NEW EXTENSION TO THE 2ImEMANS !RMS ON 2ImE 3TREET OFF THE !BERGAVENNY 2OAD /N THE MAIN "ROAD 3TREET THE EFFUSIVE 2ED 2OOSTER #AFÏ AT NO HAS THREE SMART ROOMS AND IS ALSO ONE OF THE BEST PLACES FOR DAYTIME FOOD )N THE EVENINGS
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7EST OF 0ONTYPOOL AND "LAENAFON THE SETTLEMENTS OF THE %BBW 6ALE ARE HEMMED IN BY SOME OF THE 6ALLEYS BEST FOREST SCENERY 0ARTICULARLY POPULAR IS THE #WMCARN &OREST $RIVE %ASTERn!UG DAILY AMnPM PM *ULY !UG WEEKENDS 3EPT DAILY AMnPM -ARCH /CT DAILY AMnPM .OV 3AT 3UN AMnPM a PER CAR REACHED FROM THE MAIN ! IN #WMCARN VILLAGE TWO MILES NORTH OF 2ISCA 4HE SEVEN MILE ROUTE INCLUDES SUPERB VIEWS KIDS PLAY AREAS A DECENT VISITOR CENTRE AN )RON !GE HILLFORT MOUNTAIN BIKE TRAILS AND A GOOD GRASSY CAMPSITE WHERE YOU CAN PITCH A TENT FOR a a IN *ULY !UG 4HE %BBW 6ALLEY DIVIDES IN TWO JUST SHORT OF !"%24),,%29 !BERTYLERI A CLASSIC 6ALLEYS TOWN OF SCRUFFY VERTIGINOUS STREETS RISING UP FROM THE %BBW &ACH 2IVER 4HE TOWNS MUSEUM -ONn4HURS AMnPM nPM &RI 3AT AMnPM FREE IN AN OLD THEATRE ON -ARKET 3TREET OFFERS AN EMINENTLY BROWS ABLE RAMBLE THROUGH LOCAL HISTORY WITH AN EMPHASIS ON THE SOCIAL CONDITIONS OF THE MINERS 9OU MIGHT CONSIDER CONTINUING THROUGH TO THE SPRAWLING UPLAND SETTLEMENT OF .!.49',/ FOUR MILES NORTH 3IGNPOSTED ON THE WESTERN EDGE OF THE TOWN ARE TWO REMARKABLE FORTIlED ROUNDHOUSES NOW IN A SORRY STATE OF DISREPAIR 4HEY WERE BUILT IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY BY LOCAL IRONMASTER *OSEPH "AILEY AN %NGLISH !NGLICAN RENOWNED FOR HIS HARSH TREATMENT OF WORKERS "AILEY WAS FEARFUL ENOUGH OF INSURRECTION TO BUILD THESE MINI CASTLES IN COMPLETE WITH FOUR FEET THICK WALLS AND IRON PLATE DOORS WITH MUSKET HOLES 4HE OTHER BRANCH OF THE %BBW 6ALE INCLUDING THE EPONYMOUS TOWN %BBW 6ALE 'LYN %BWY HAS LITTLE TO DETAIN YOU 4HE TOWN IN PARTICULAR IS A FORLORN PLACE SINCE THE lNAL CLOSURE OF ITS MASSIVE STEELWORKS IN %VEN THE SITE OF THE MEMORABLE 'ARDEN &ESTIVAL THE LAST OF A SERIES DESIGNED TO REGENERATE HARD HIT PARTS OF "RITAIN IS NOW JUST A CHEESY SHOPPING MALL )TS TO BE HOPED THAT THE IMMINENT REVIVAL OF THE %BBW 6ALES PASSENGER RAILWAY SHOULD HELP MATTERS
4065)& "458"- & 4
YOURE BEST OFF EATING IN PUBS SUCH AS THE 1UEEN 6ICTORIA ON 0RINCE 3TREET WHICH ALSO HAS REGULAR LIVE MUSIC OR THE 2ImEMANS !RMS SEE ABOVE ! MILE OR SO OUT OF TOWN ARE TWO GREAT PUBS BOTH SERVING FOOD THE MINING MEMORABILIA lLLED 7HISTLE )NN OFF THE ROAD TO "RYNMAWR AND DOWN THE LANE OFF THE !BERGAVENNY 2OAD TO THE NORTH ON THE "LORENGE MOUNTAIN THE ATMOSPHERIC ,AMB &LAG SOLE SURVIVOR OF THE DEMOLISHED PIT VILLAGE OF 0WLL DU
$BFSQIJMMZBOEUIF3IZNOFZ7BMMFZ 4RAVELLING WEST THE NEXT MAJOR SETTLEMENT IS #!%20(),,9 #AERFlLI SEVEN MILES NORTH OF #ARDIFF AND AT THE FOOT OF THE 2HYMNEY 6ALLEY 4HE TOWN NOW ALMOST A #ARDIFF SUBURB HAS SMARTENED ITSELF UP IN RECENT YEARS PARTICULARLY THE AREA AROUND ITS STAGGERING TOWN CENTRE CASTLE %ASTER -AY /CT DAILY AMn PM *UNEn3EPT DAILY AMnPM .OVn-ARCH -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM a #!$7 LOOMING OUT OF ITS VAST SURROUNDING MOAT 4HE CASTLE IS STRIKING FOR ITS SHEER BULK AND FOR BEING THE lRST IN "RITAIN TO BE BUILT CONCEN TRICALLY /CCUPYING OVER THIRTY ACRES THE MEDIEVAL FORTRESS WITH ITS COCK EYED TOWER PRESENTS AN AWESOME PROMISE THATS NOT HOWEVER ENTIRELY FULlLLED INSIDE "UILT ON THE SITE OF A 2OMAN FORT AND AN EARLIER .ORMAN FORTIlCATION THE CASTLE WAS BEGUN IN BY 'ILBERT DE #LARE WHO WANTED TO PROTECT THE VULNERABLE COASTAL PLAINS AROUND #ARDIFF FROM THE WARRING OF ,LYWELYN THE ,AST &OR THE NEXT FEW HUNDRED YEARS #AERPHILLY WAS LITTLE MORE THAN A DECAYING TOY GIVEN AT WHIM BY KINGS TO THEIR FAVOURITES n MOST NOTABLY BY %DWARD )) TO HIS MINION
4065)& "458"- & 4
]5IF7BMMFZT
AND SOME SAY LOVER (UGH LE $ESPENSER IN 4HE #IVIL 7AR NECESSITATED THE BUILDING OF AN ARMOURY WITHIN THE CASTLE WHICH PROMPTED #ROMWELL TO SEIZE IT DRAIN THE MOAT AND BLOW UP THE TOWERS "Y THE EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY #AERPHILLY #ASTLE WAS IN A SORRY STATE SITTING AMIDST A GROWING INDUSTRIAL TOWN THAT SAW lT TO BUILD IN THE MOAT AND THE CASTLE PRECINCTS (OUSES AND SHOPS WERE DEMOLISHED TO ALLOW THE MOAT TO BE REmOODED IN 9OU ENTER THE CASTLE THROUGH A GREAT GATEHOUSE THAT PUNCTUATES THE BARBICAN WALL BY A LAKE MUCH RESTORED AND NOW HOUSING AN EXHIBITION ABOUT THE CASTLES HISTORY ! PLATFORM BEHIND THE BARBICAN WALL EXHIBITS MEDIEVAL WAR AND SIEGE ENGINES POINTING OMINOUSLY ACROSS THE LAKE &ROM HERE A BRIDGE CROSSES THE MOAT PART OF THE WIDER LAKE TO THE OUTER WALL OF THE CASTLE ITSELF BEHIND WHICH SITS THE HULKING INNER WARD /N THE LEFT IS THE SOUTHEASTERN LEANING TOWER WITH A GREAT CLEFT IN ITS WALLS WHERE #ROMWELLS MEN ARE SAID TO HAVE ATTEMPTED TO BLOW IT SKY HIGH )T NOW SEEMS THAT #ROMWELL HAD LESS TO DO WITH THE TILT THAN COMMON OLD SUBSIDENCE BUT THE STORY IS TOO GOOD TO PASS UP 7ITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE RUINED NORTHEASTERN TOWER THE OTHER CORNER TURRETS HAVE BEEN BLANDLY RESTORED SINCE THE #IVIL 7AR WITH THE NORTHWESTERN TOWER HOUSING A REASONABLY INTERESTING EXHIBITION ON 7ELSH CASTLES THEIR METHODS OF CONSTRUC TION AND SOME SPECULATIVE FACTS AND lGURES ABOUT THE DAY TO DAY LIFE OF THEIR MEDIEVAL INHABITANTS -ORE INTERESTING IS THE MASSIVE EASTERN GATEHOUSE WHICH INCLUDES AN IMPRESSIVE UPPER HALL AND ORATORY AND TO ITS LEFT THE WHOLLY RESTORED AND REROOFED 'REAT (ALL LARGELY BUILT AROUND BY (UGH LE $ESPENSER #AERPHILLY IS ALSO OF COURSE KNOWN FOR ITS CRUMBLY WHITE CHEESE WHICH IS MADE THE TRADITIONAL WAY AT SEVERAL DAIRIES AROUND TOWN AND SOLD IN THE SHOP BELOW THE TOURIST OFlCE OPPOSITE THE CASTLE ENTRANCE IN ,OWER 4WYN 3QUARE DAILY *ANn%ASTER AMnPM %ASTERn/CT AMnPM .OV $EC AMnPM TIC CAERPHILLYGOVUK "OTH THE CASTLE AND THE TOURIST OFlCE ARE A lVE MINUTE STROLL DOWN #ARDIFF 2OAD FROM THE BUS AND TRAIN STATIONS 9OURE UNLIKELY TO WANT TO STAY HERE #AERPHILLY IS BEST AS A DAY TRIP FROM #ARDIFF 4HERE ARE PLENTY OF EATING OPTIONS IN TOWN NONE HUGELY SPECIAL 4HE VIEW OF THE CASTLE ALONE MAKES A STOP IN THE #OURTHOUSE INN ON #ARDIFF 2OAD BEHIND THE .AT7EST BANK WORTHWHILE THOUGH YOU CAN ALSO PARTAKE OF ITS PREDICTABLE MENU OF CHAIN PUB CLASSICS &OR THE BEST #AERPHILLY CHEESE 7ELSH 2AREBIT IN TOWN GO TO 'LANMORS 4EAROOMS FACING THE CASTLE ON THE EDGE OF THE #ASTLE #OURT SHOPPING PRECINCT 5IF3IZNOFZ7BMMFZ
.ORTH OF #AERPHILLY THE 2HYMNEY 6ALLEY BECOMES INCREASINGLY INDUSTRIALIZED AS IT STEERS PAST A SEAMLESS SUCCESSION OF SMALL TOWNS 4EN MILES UP THE VALLEY FROM #AERPHILLY IS .%7 42%$%'!2 WHERE THE %LLIOT #OLLIERY 7INDING (OUSE %ASTERn3EPT 7EDn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN BANK HOLIDAYS nPM FREE WITH ITS GLEAMING STEAM ENGINE THAT ONCE POWERED THE COLLIERYS HIGH SPEED LIFTS IS WORTH A VISIT )TS ON 7HITE 2OSE 7AY A TEN MINUTE WALK FROM 4IR PHIL STATION !T THE HEAD OF THE VALLEY A MILE BEYOND 2HYMNEY TOWN AND JUST SHORT OF THE ! (EADS OF THE 6ALLEYS ROAD "54%4/7. $RENEWYDD IS A TINY SETTLE MENT UNLIKE ANY OTHER IN THE AREA "UILT AS A MODEL WORKERS ESTATE IN n BY THE -ARQUESS OF "UTE A MEMBER OF 7ALES RICHEST LAND AND MINERALS OWNING FAMILY IT WAS ORIGINALLY CONCEIVED AS THE BEGINNING OF A WHOLE NEW AIRY WORKERS COMMUNITY (IS IDEALISM WAS UNUSUAL AMONGST THE IRONMASTERS AND COAL OWNERS OF THE DAY AND SADLY ONLY THE CENTRAL GRID OF HOUSES WAS BUILT 4WO IRONWORKERS COTTAGES IN THE MAIN STREET HAVE BEEN CONVERTED INTO $RENEWYDD MUSEUM %ASTERn3EPT 3AT 3UN BANK HOLIDAYS nPM a OTHER TIMES BY APPOINTMENT
,IKE THE 2IVER 2HYMNEY THE 2IVER 4AFF ALSO mOWS OUT INTO THE "RISTOL #HAN NEL AT #ARDIFF AFTER PASSING THROUGH A CONDENSED OR SO MILES OF INDUSTRY AND POPULATION THAT OBSCURE THE FORMER CHINA WORKS AT .ANTGARW 4HE lRST TOWN IN THE 4AFF 6ALE IS 0ONTYPRIDD ONE OF THE MOST CHEERFUL IN THE 6ALLEYS AND WHERE THE 2HONDDA 2IVER HIVES OFF WEST #ONTINUING NORTH THE RIVER SPLITS AGAIN AT !BERCYNON WHERE THE #YNON 2IVER mOWS IN FROM !BERDARE SITE OF 7ALES ONLY REMAINING DEEP MINE *UST OUTSIDE !BERCYNON IS THE ENJOYABLE SIXTEENTH CENTURY ,LANCAIACH &AWR MANOR HOUSE WHILE TO THE NORTH THE 4AFF IS PACKED INTO ONE OF THE TIGHTEST OF ALL THE VALLEYS PASSING !BERFAN lVE MILES SHORT OF THE IMPOSING VALLEY HEAD TOWN OF -ERTHYR 4YDlL
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4065)& "458"- & 4
ON A SMALL LOCAL AFFAIR DETAILING LIFE FOR NINETEENTH CENTURY EMPLOYEES WHICH WAS STILL ARDUOUS DESPITE THE UPLIFTING SURROUNDINGS ! MILE EAST OF "UTETOWN THE "RYN "ACH #OUNTRY 0ARK ON THE NORTHERN EDGE OF THE CLOSE KNIT LITTLE TOWN OF 42%$%'!2 HAS AN ATTRACTIVE CAMP SITE BY A SMALL LAKE WITH SHOWERS AND A VISITOR CENTRE CUM CAFÏ 4HERES ALSO A GREAT INDEPENDENT HOSTEL IN THE MIDDLE OF 4REDEGAR n THE (OBO "ACKPACKERS WWWHOBO BACKPACKERSCOM BEDS a ON -ORGAN 3TREET JUST DOWN FROM THE TOWN CLOCK /N THE SAME STREET IS THE PARKLAND OF "EDWELLTY (OUSE A 'EORGIAN MANSION BUILT FOR THE LOCAL IRONMASTER )N THE GROUNDS YOULL lND AN ARBORETUM ICEHOUSE LONG ARCADE AND THE WORLDS LARG EST LUMP OF COAL A lFTEEN TON BLOCK EXHIBITED AS PART OF THE &ESTIVAL OF "RITAIN
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"ARRELLING NORTH ALONG THE ! YOUD NEVER SUSPECT THAT THE #HINA 7ORKS -USEUM 4UESn3UN AMnPM a LURKS BEHIND A COPSE OF TREES JUST BY THE JUNCTION FOR .!.4'!27 &OR LESS THAN lVE YEARS IN THE S THE POTTERY HERE PRODUCED SOME OF THE lNEST PORCELAIN IN THE WORLD THE FEW mORID EXAM PLES ON DISPLAY ONLY SERVING TO WHET YOUR APPETITE FOR THE EXTENSIVE COLLECTION IN THE .ATIONAL -USEUM IN #ARDIFF -ASTER PORCELAIN PAINTER 7ILLIAM "ILLINGS LEY SET UP THE WORKS WITH HIGH AMBITION USING 6ALLEYS COAL AND #ORNISH CLAY BUT THE EXTREMELY DIFlCULT hSOFT PASTE PORCELAINv PROCESS RESULTED IN JUST A TEN PERCENT lRING SUCCESS RATE AND THE ENTERPRISE SOON FOLDED /NE OF THE lRING KILNS HAS NOW BEEN REBUILT AND THE MAIN BUILDING CONTAINS SMALL DISPLAYS ON THE PROCESS AND THE HISTORY OF THE SITE *UST UP THE ROAD ON (EOL #ROCHENDY IS THE #OLLECTIONS #ENTRE OF THE .ATIONAL -USEUM OF 7ALES BASICALLY A HUGE STORE FOR ALL THAT ISNT ON SHOW AT ANY OF THE MUSEUMS SEVEN SITES 6ISITORS ARE WELCOME BUT YOU MUST TELEPHONE FOR AN APPOINTMENT lRST 1POUZQSJEE
0/.4902)$$S QUIRKY ARCHED BRIDGE OF WAS ONCE THE LARGEST SINGLE SPAN STONE BRIDGE IN %UROPE )T WAS BUILT BY LOCAL AMATEUR STONEMASON 7ILLIAM %DWARDS WHOSE PREVIOUS ATTEMPTS HAD CRUMBLED INTO THE RIVER BELOW (IS lNAL EFFORT STANDS TO THIS DAY ITS THREE HOLES EITHER SIDE DESIGNED TO LESSEN THE BRIDGES OVERALL WEIGHT AND ALLOW GUSTY WINDS THROUGH /N THE FAR SIDE OF THE RIVER FROM THE TOWN CENTRE IS 9NYSANGHARAD 0ARK WHERE 3IR 7 'OSCOMBE *OHNS CLOYING DOUBLE STATUE AND TOMB IN HONOUR OF 0ONTYPRIDD WEAVER %VAN *AMES AND HIS SON REPRESENTS ALLEGORICAL lGURES OF MUSIC AND POETRY )N *AMES COMPOSED THE STIRRING (EN 7LAD &Y .HADAU ,AND OF -Y &ATHERS THAT BECAME THE 7ELSH NATIONAL ANTHEM
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"Y THE BRIDGE AT THE END OF 4AFF 3TREET THE 0ONTYPRIDD -USEUM -ONn3AT AMnPM CLOSED BANK HOLIDAYS FREE IS HOUSED IN WHAT WAS ONE OF THE TOWNS GREAT CHAPELS "UILT IN IT HAS BEEN LOVINGLY RESTORED AND BOASTS UNUSUALLY ORNATE CEILING BOSSES PILLARS PULPIT STAINED GLASS WINDOW AND ORGAN THAT ALL CONTRIBUTE TO THE REVERENTIAL ATMOSPHERE 4HE CENTRES CONTENTS ARE A REAL TREAS URE TROVE OF PHOTOGRAPHS VIDEO MODELS AND EXHIBITS THAT SUCCEED IN PAINTING A WARM PICTURE OF THE TOWN AND ITS OUTLYING VALLEYS 0ONTYPRIDD IS THE HOME TOWN OF CROONER 4OM *ONES AND OPERA STAR AND ACTOR 3IR 'ERAINT %VANS BOTH CELEBRATED AMONGST THE EXHIBITIONS HERE .EAR THE ELEGANT AND IMPRESSIVE TRAIN STATION *OHN (UGHES 'ROGG 3HOP ON "ROADWAY CARICATURES LEGIONS OF RUGBY STARS AND 7ELSH CELEBRITIES IN ODDBALL SCULPTURE AND A SHORT WALK PAST THE PUBS AT THE BOTTOM OF 4AFF 3TREET BRINGS YOU OUT PARALLEL TO -ARKET 3TREET AND THE CHAOTIC BUSTLE OF THE OLD FASHIONED MARKET WHICH SPILLS OUT INTO THE SURROUNDING STREETS AND SQUARES ON 7EDNESDAY AND 3ATURDAY THE MAIN TRADING DAYS )F YOURE HERE ON 4UESDAY OR &RIDAY NIGHT POP ALONG TO 4ABOR (ALL IN THE 0WLLGWAUN SUBURB OF 0ONTYPRIDD TO LISTEN TO THE LOCAL MALE VOICE CHOIR WHICH STARTS REHEARSING AT PM 2APIDLY GENTRIFYING 0ONTYPRIDD IS WELL CONNECTED TO BUS TRAIN AND ROAD NETWORKS WITH THE TRAIN STATION A TEN MINUTE WALK SOUTH OF THE OLD BRIDGE ON 4HE 'RAIG AND THE BUS STATION DIRECTLY ABOVE THE OLD BRIDGE ON THE WESTERN BANK *UST BELOW IS THE TOURIST OFlCE -ONn3AT AMnPM IN THE 0ONTYPRIDD -USEUM ON "RIDGE 3TREET !CCOMMODATION IS RATHER SCARCE IN THE CENTRE TRY THE BUSTLING -ARKET 4AVERN ON -ARKET 3TREET 'ENERALLY THOUGH MORE APPEALING OPTIONS LIE THREE OR FOUR MILES AWAY CLOSE TO ,LANCAIACH &AWR -ANOR SEE BELOW &OOD OPTIONS ARE FAIRLY BASIC WITH A HUDDLE OF CHEAP TAKEAWAYS AND RESTAURANTS OPPOSITE THE STATION AND ALONG 4AFF 3TREET $ECENT PUB FOOD OPTIONS INCLUDE THE -ARKET 4AVERN SEE ABOVE AND NEAR THE STATION ON "ROADWAY 4HE 4UMBLE &OR PURE DRINKING MAKE FOR THE OLD FASHIONED ,LANOVER !RMS ON "RIDGE 3TREET JUST OVER THE RIVER FROM THE MUSEUM 4HERES REGULAR LIVE MUSIC AT #LWB Y "ONT BEHIND "OOTS ON 4AFF 3TREET -MBODBJBDI'BXSBOEUIF8FMTI*OUFSOBUJPOBM$MJNCJOH $FOUSF
4HE RIVER DIVIDES AT !BERCYNON FOUR MILES UP THE 4AFF 6ALLEY WITH THE #YNON 2IVER mOWING IN FROM !BERDARE IN THE NORTHWEST 4WO MILES EAST OF !BERCYNON JUST NORTH OF THE VILLAGE OF .%,3/. IS THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY ,LANCAIACH &AWR -ANOR -ARCHn/CT -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM .OVn&EB CLOSED -ON a A 4UDOR HOUSE BUILT AROUND THAT HAS BEEN TRANSFORMED INTO A LIVING HISTORY MUSEUM SET IN THE TIME OF THE #IVIL 7AR WITH ALL OF THE GUIDES DRESSED AS HOUSE SERVANTS AND SPEAKING THE LANGUAGE OF SEVENTEENTH CENTURY "RITAIN !LTHOUGH THERE IS GREAT OPPORTUNITY FOR THE WHOLE EXPERIENCE TO BE NIGHTMARISHLY TACKY IT IS QUITE DEFTLY DONE WITH WELL RESEARCHED PERIOD AUTHENTICITY AND NUMEROUS FASCINATING ANECDOTES FROM THE STAFF 3PECIAL TOURS n CANDLELIT MURDER MYSTERY AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURY EVENINGS n ARE ALSO AVAILABLE 2EGULAR BUSES FROM 0ONTYPRIDD AND #ARDIFF PASS THE ENTRANCE )F YOU WANT TO STAY TRY THE FRIENDLY WELL KEPT &AIRMEAD GUESTHOUSE ALMOST OPPOSITE THE MANOR NOT TOO FAR AWAY THERES THE TRADI TIONALLY STYLED mORAL ,LECHWEN (ALL WWWLLECHWENCOM
WHICH SITS HIGH ON THE HILLS TO THE SOUTH OF .ELSON SIGNPOSTED OFF THE ! A COUPLE OF MILES NORTH OF 0ONTYPRIDD ! COUPLE OF MILES NORTH OF ,LANCAIACH &AWR JUST BEYOND THE VILLAGE OF 4RELEWIS THE OLD 4AFF -ERTHYR COLLIERY HAS UNDERGONE STUNNING TRANSFORMATION
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.ORTH OF !BERCYNON THE 4AFF 6ALLEY CONTAINS ONE SIGHT THATS IMPOSSIBLE TO FORGET THE TWO NEAT LINES OF DISTANT ARCHES THAT MARK THE GRAVES OF THE PEOPLE KILLED IN /CTOBER BY AN UNSECURED SLAG HEAP SLIDING DOWN A HILL AND ONTO THE 0ANTGLAS PRIMARY SCHOOL IN THE VILLAGE OF !"%2&!. 4HOUSANDS OF PEOPLE MAKE THE PILGRIMAGE TO THE VILLAGE GRAVEYARD TO STAND SILENT AND BEMUSED BY THE ENORMITY OF THE DISASTER 4HE HUMAN COST n INCLUDING CHILDREN WHO DIED HUDDLED IN PANIC AT THE BEGINNING OF THEIR SCHOOL DAY n IS BEYOND COMPRE HENSION !MONGST THE GRAVESTONES THAT STRIVE SO DESPERATELY TO RATIONALIZE THE TRAGEDY THE MOST HUMBLING AND BEAUTIFUL VALEDICTION IS TO A TEN YEAR OLD BOY WHO IT SIMPLY RECORDS hLOVED LIGHT FREEDOM AND ANIMALSv /FlCIAL ENQUIRIES ALL TOLD THE SORRY TALE THAT THIS DISASTER WAS AN ALMOST INEVITABLE EVENTUALITY GIVEN THE CAVALIER APPROACH TO SAFETY SO OFTEN DISPLAYED BY THE COAL BOSSES
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INTO THE 7ELSH )NTERNATIONAL #LIMBING #ENTRE -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM WWWINDOORCLIMBINGWALLSCOUK !S WELL AS VAST CLIMBING WALLS an IT OFFERS A WIDE RANGE OF ADVENTURE OPTIONS INCLUDING POTHOLING AND CAVING INSTRUCTION IS AVAILABLE a FOR FOUR 4HERE ARE ALSO EXERCISE ROOMS A SAUNA A RESTAURANT AND BAR OPEN AT WEEKENDS AND EVENINGS AND EVEN HOSTEL BEDS a WEEKDAYS a WEEKENDS a BANK HOLIDAYS IN SMALL CLEAN DORMS (OURLY -ONn3AT BUS FROM 0ONTYPRIDD AND .ELSON WILL DROP YOU ON THE DOORSTEP
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%IGHT MILES NORTHWEST OF !BERCYNON TOWARDS THE TOP OF THE #YNON 6ALLEY IS THE SPACIOUS TOWN OF !"%2$!2% !BERDÊR ! SHORT WALK FROM THE TRAIN STATION BRINGS YOU TO ONE OF THE 6ALLEYS BEST MUSEUMS THE #YNON 6ALLEY -USEUM 'ALLERY -ONn3AT AMnPM FREE HOUSED IN AN OLD TRAM DEPOT NEXT TO THE 4ESCO SUPERSTORE %XHIBITS PORTRAY THE SOCIAL HISTORY OF THE VALLEY FROM THE APPALLING CONDITIONS OF THE MID NINETEENTH CENTURY WHEN NEARLY HALF OF ALL CHILDREN BORN HERE DIED BY THE AGE OF TO STIRRING MEMORIES OF THE 'ENERAL 3TRIKE AND THE n -INERS 3TRIKE !LONGSIDE ARE SOME FUN VIDEOS AND EXHIBITS ON 6ICTORIAN LANTERN SLIDES TEENAGE LIFE THROUGH THE AGES THE MINERS JAZZ BANDS AND !BERDARES ROLE AS A PROMINENT CENTRE OF EARLY 7ELSH LANGUAGE PUBLISHING /N THE WESTERN mANK OF TOWN IS THE LOVELY $ARE 6ALLEY #OUNTRY 0ARK STARTING POINT OF THE MILE 'LAMORGAN &OREST 7AY TO !FAN !RGOED AND -ARGAM 0ARK SEE P 4HE DECENT VISITOR CENTRE DAILY !PRILn3EPT AMnPM /CTn-ARCH AMnPM HAS A CAFÏ AND SOME INTERESTING EXHIBITS AND HANDLES ENQUIRIES FOR THE BASIC BUT GOOD ON SITE HOTEL AND THE VERY REASONABLE CAMPSITE a PER PITCH PLUS a PER PERSON )TS ONLY A SHORT WALK INTO THE TOWN CENTRE WHERE YOULL lND SOME GOOD SHOPS LOTS OF CAFÏS AND A TON OF PUBS n TRY THE 7ETHERSPOONS 9R )EUAN AP )AGO ON THE (IGH 3TREET FOR FOOD OR THE "UTE !RMS ON 6ICTORIA 3QUARE FOR BEER AND LIVE MUSIC
.FSUIZS5ZEmM -%24(92 49$&), -ERTHYR 4UDFUL SITS IN A SHALLOW BOWL OF HILLS AT THE TOP OF THE 4AFF 6ALLEY ON THE CUSP OF THE INDUSTRIAL 6ALLEYS TO THE SOUTH AND THE GRAND WINDY HEIGHTS OF THE "RECON "EACONS TO THE NORTH 4HOUGH ITS FAIRLY TATTY THESE DAYS -ERTHYRS APPEAL LIES IN ITS UNIQUE PEDIGREE -ERTHYRS STRATEGIC SITE WAS lRST EXPLOITED BY THE 2OMANS AS AN OUTPOST OF THEIR BASE AT #AERLEON )N !$ 4YDlL 7ELSH PRINCESS AND DAUGHTER OF
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"RYCHAN 0RINCE OF "RYCHEINIOG WAS CAPTURED AS SHE RODE THROUGH THE AREA AND MURDERED FOR HER #HRISTIAN BELIEFS 3HE BECAME 3T 4YDlL THE -ARTYR AND HER NAME WAS BESTOWED ON THE SCATTERED POPULATION OF THE AREA )N THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY THE VILLAGE BECAME A FOCAL POINT FOR $ISSENTERS AND 2ADICALS MOVEMENTS WHICH THROUGH POVERTY AND OPPRESSION GAINED MOMEN TUM IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY AS THE TOWNS FOUR MASSIVE IRONWORKS WERE FOUNDED TO EXPLOIT LOCALLY ABUNDANT SEAMS OF IRON ORE AND LIMESTONE -ERTHYR BECAME THE LARGEST IRON PRODUCING TOWN IN THE WORLD AS WELL AS BY FAR THE MOST POPULOUS TOWN IN 7ALES IN THE TOWN HAD A POPULATION OF MORE THAN #ARDIFF 3WANSEA AND .EWPORT COMBINED 7ORKERS mOCKED FROM ALL OVER "RITAIN AND BEYOND lNDING THEMSELVES CRAMMED INTO SQUALID HOUSING WHILST THE IRONMASTERS BUILT THEMSELVES GREAT HOUSES AND PALACES ON THE BETTER SIDE OF TOWN -ERTHYRS RADICALISM BUBBLED FURIOUSLY BREAKING OUT INTO OCCASIONAL RIOTS AND PROMPTING THE ELECTION OF "RITAINS lRST SOCIALIST -0 +EIR (ARDIE IN )T WAS HERE THAT THE RED mAG WAS lRST RAISED WHEN RIOTERS IN GATHERED AROUND A STANDARD DIPPED IN THE BLOOD OF A KILLED CALF (OWEVER THE TOWNS PRECIPITOUS DEVELOPMENT SAW IT PEAK AND TROUGH EARLIER THAN ANYWHERE ELSE OF THE FOUR MIGHTY IRONWORKS ONLY ONE WAS STILL OPEN AT THE END OF 7ORLD 7AR ) AND THAT CLOSED IN THE S )N A 2OYAL #OMMISSION SUGGESTED THAT THE TOWN BE ABANDONED AND THE INHABITANTS SHIFTED TO THE COAST 4HE PLAN WAS FORGOTTEN WHEN WAR BROKE OUT 5IF5PXO
4HE TOWN CENTRE IS WEDGED IN BETWEEN THE (IGH 3TREET AND THE 2IVER 4AFF BUT THE SIGHTS LISTED HERE ARE ALL AROUND THE 4AFF TO THE IMMEDIATE NORTHWEST 4HE 9NYSFACH %NGINE (OUSE WAS ONCE THE POWERHOUSE BEHIND THE MIGHTY #YFARTHA IRONWORKS )TS NOW BEEN OPENED UP TO THE PUBLIC n TO ARRANGE ACCESS CALL THE CASTLE SEE BELOW YOULL PAY a TO ENTER n WITH COSTUMED MANNEQUINS PORTRAYING SCENES FROM -ERTHYRS PAST AS A CENTRE OF IRON AND STEEL MAKING AND AN ENTERTAINING VIDEO ABOUT THE TOWNS INDUSTRIAL HISTORY (ALF A MILE FURTHER UP THE 2IVER 4AFF TUCKED AMONGST MODERN HOUSES JUST OFF THE ! "ETHESDA 3TREET IS #HAPEL 2OW A LINE OF SKILLED IRONWORK ERS COTTAGES BUILT IN THE S /NE OF THESE HOLDS COMPOSER *OSEPH 0ARRYS "IRTHPLACE !PRILn3EPT 4HURSn3UN nPM FREE THOUGH THIS MINI MUSEUM IS MOST INTERESTING AS A SOCIAL RECORD OF SLIGHTLY BETTER THAN AVERAGE WORKERS DOMESTIC CONDITIONS OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 0ARRYS MUSIC INCLUDING THE NATIONAL FAVOURITE -YFANWY IS PIPED BETWEEN ROOMS AND THE UPSTAIRS SECTION OF THE HOUSE IS GIVEN OVER TO A DISPLAY OF HIS LIFE AND MUSIC "ACK ACROSS THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RIVER JUST BEYOND THE "RECON 2OAD IS A HOME IN ABSOLUTE CONTRAST TO 0ARRYS HUMBLE AND CRAMPED BIRTHPLACE #YFARTHA #ASTLE !PRILn3EPT DAILY AMnPM /CTn-ARCH 4UESn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN NOONnPM FREE "UILT IN AS AN OSTENTATIOUS MOCK 'OTHIC CASTLE FOR 7ILLIAM #RAWSHAY )) BOSS OF THE TOWNS ORIGINAL IRONWORKS ITS SET WITHIN AN ATTRACTIVE ACRE PARK THAT SLOPES DOWN TO THE RIVER AND ONCE AFFORDED #RAW SHAY A PERMANENT VIEW OVER HIS IRON EMPIRE #YFARTHAS CURRENT INCARNATION THOUGH IS AS A MUSEUM AND A GREAT ONE AT THAT 9OU START IN A WELL RE CREATED 6ALLEYS )TALIAN CAFÏ ON THE GROUND mOOR )TALIAN EMIGRANTS mOCKED TO SOUTH 7ALES IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY MANY SHUNNING MINING AND OPENING QUITE GRAND CHROME PLATED COFFEE HOUSES THAT BECAME LEGENDARY IN THE REGION 9OU THEN GO DOWNSTAIRS INTO THE OLD WINE CELLARS FOR A GUTSY HISTORY OF THE TOWN 3TARTING WITH TALES OF THE MARTYR 4YDlL THE 0ENYDARREN 2OMAN FORT AND RUINED -ORLAIS #ASTLE THE NARRATIVE SOON LEADS INTO -ERTHYRS INDUSTRIAL AND POLITICAL HERITAGE -ERTHYRS PLACE IN WORKING CLASS HISTORY IS WELL EXAMINED WITH AN INTERESTING
4HE TRAIN STATION LIES EAST OF THE TOWN CENTRE A MINUTES WALK FROM (IGH 3TREET .ORTH FROM HERE IS 'LEBELAND 3TREET AND THE BUS STATION WHERE SERVICES DEPART FOR ALL PARTS OF SOUTH AND MID 7ALES 4HE TOURIST OFlCE A 'LEBELAND 3T !PRILn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM /CTn-ARCH -ONn3AT AMnPM TIC MERTHYRGOVUK IS BEHIND THE BUS STATION 4HE NEAR EST BIKE RENTAL IS FROM THE 'ARWNANT VISITOR CENTRE OFF THE ! lVE MILES NORTH OF TOWN !CCOMMODATION IS VARIED RANGING FROM THE PLUSH 4REGENNA (OTEL IN 0ARK 4ERRACE NEXT TO 0ENYDARREN 0ARK WWWTREGENNAHOTEL COUK TO THE LESS FUSSY #HAPLINS (IGH 3T WWW CHAPLINSHOTELCOUK AND CHEAPEST OF ALL THE 0ENYLAN GUESTHOUSE #OURT LAND 4ERRACE 4HERES A CAMPSITE FOUR MILES NORTH OF TOWN IN THE BEAUTIFUL SURROUNDINGS OF 'RAWEN &ARM #WM 4AF an PER PITCH 4HERE ARE PLENTY OF DAYTIME FOOD OUTLETS IN THE MAIN SHOPPING AREA OF THE TOWN CENTRE WITH A FEW CAFÏS AND #HINESE AND )NDIAN RESTAURANTS OPEN INTO THE EVENING ALONG THE (IGH 3TREET #HAPLINS SEE ABOVE IS PRETTY GOOD FOR STANDARD BISTRO FARE OR THERES REASONABLE BEER AND FOOD AT 7ETHERSPOONS $IC 0ENDERYN AT NOS n !T THE BOTTOM OF THE (IGH 3TREET THE FRIENDLY &OUNTAIN 4EAROOMS DOES NICE SANDWICHES AND CAPPUCCINO 9OU COULD ALSO TRY THE HISTORIC 4HREE (ORSESHOES )NN ON $YNEVOR 3TREET WHERE UP TO THREE HUNDRED #HARTISTS ONCE CRAMMED INTO THE SMALL BAR %ITHER OF THESE WILL ALSO PROVE AMENABLE FOR A NIGHTS DRINKING AS WILL THE SPORTY 2OSE #ROWN ON -ORGAN 3TREET UP TOWARDS #YFARTHA 0ARK
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SET OF PANELS AND PAMPHLETS ON THE RIOT /THER EXHIBITS EXAMINE !BERFAN THE n MINERS STRIKE PUBS AND THE TEMPERANCE MOVEMENT AS WELL AS THE BELEAGUERED S 3INCLAIR # CAR CONSTRUCTED HERE AT THE (OOVER PLANT n hBUILT BY (OOVER DRIVEN BY SUCKERSv AS THE LOCAL PHRASE MEMORABLY HAD IT 5PSTAIRS THE CASTLES OPULENT MAIN ROOMS ALL CHANDELIERS AND ACRES OF CURTAINS NOW HOUSE A SUPERB COLLECTION OF 7ELSH AND INTERNATIONAL ART 7ELSH HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE AN UNCHARACTERISTICALLY GENTLE STUDY OF 4HE %LF BY MONUMENTAL SCULPTOR 'OSCOMBE *OHN AND WORKS BY LOCAL PAINTERS 0ENRY 7ILLIAMS !UGUSTUS *OHN #EDRIC -ORRIS +YFlN 7ILLIAMS AND !LFRED *ONES WHOSE DOUBLE PORTRAIT OF 3ALOME IS QUITE MESMERIZING 4HE SURROUNDING PARK CONTAINS LANDSCAPED WALKS A PLANT NURSERY CAFÏ BOWL ING GREEN TENNIS COURTS A PITCH AND PUTT COURSE AND A STAGE SET NEXT TO THE MAIN LAKE
5IF3IPOEEB &OR MANY PEOPLE THE TWIN VALLEYS OF THE 2HONDDA n EACH SIXTEEN MILES LONG AND NEVER AS MUCH AS A MILE WIDE n ARE THE ESSENCE OF ALL THAT THE REGION STANDS FOR /THERS MAY DISAGREE BUT THE 2HONDDA WAS CERTAINLY THE HEART OF THE MASSIVE SOUTH 7ALES COAL INDUSTRY AN INDUSTRY THAT PROVIDED AROUND ONE THIRD OF THE ENTIRE WORLDS COAL AND ITS HERE THAT YOULL lND THE REGIONS QUINTESSENTIAL HERITAGE DISTILLED INTO TIGHT KNIT HILLSIDE COMMUNITIES (OLLYWOOD PLAYED ITS PART IN ROMANTICIZING THE AREA WITH THE /SCAR WINNING WEEPIE (OW 'REEN 7AS -Y 6ALLEY ALTHOUGH THE STORY WAS BASED ON AUTHOR 2ICHARD ,LEWELLYNS EARLY LIFE IN NEARBY 'ILFACH 'OCH OUTSIDE THE VALLEY )N 2HONDDA WAS A RURAL BACKWATER WITH A POPULATION OF LESS THAN A THOUSAND #OAL WAS FOUND SOON AFTER AND BY PEOPLE WERE
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SQUEEZED INTO THE AVAILABLE LAND IN RANKS OF HOUSES PACKED AROUND SIXTY OR SO PITHEADS 0OVERTY AND HARDSHIP WERE RIFE BUT SO WERE PRIDE SELF RELIANCE RADICAL RELIGION AND lREBRAND POLITICS 4HE #OMMUNIST 0ARTY RAN THE TOWN OF -AERDY NICKNAMED h,ITTLE -OSCOWv BY &LEET 3TREET IN THE S FOR DECADES 4HE n MINERS STRIKE SAW SOLIDARITY IN THE 7ELSH PITS ON A GREATER SCALE THAN ANY OTHER PART OF "RITAIN "UT THE LAST PIT IN THE 2HONDDA THE HEART OF THE COAL MINING INDUSTRY CLOSED FOUR DAYS SHORT OF #HRISTMAS IN ,EFT BEHIND IS NOT SOME DISPIRITING RAGBAG OF DEPRESSING TOWNS BUT A RANGE OF NEW ATTRACTIONS CLEANED UP HILLSIDES AND SOME OF THE FRIENDLIEST PUBS AND COMMUNITIES TO BE FOUND ANYWHERE IN "RITAIN (ILLWALKING WITH ASTOUNDING VIEWS OVER THE DENSE LITTLE TOWNS IS NOW SERIOUS BUSINESS 4HE 2HONDDA STARTS JUST OUTSIDE 0ONTYPRIDD WINDING THROUGH THE MOUN TAINS ALONGSIDE TRAIN LINE ROAD AND RIVER FOR A FEW MILES TO 4REHAFOD AND THE COLLIERY MUSEUM OF THE 2HONDDA (ERITAGE 0ARK !PRILn3EPT DAILY AMnPM LAST ADMISSION PM /CTn-ARCH CLOSED -ON a FORMED BY LOCALS WHEN THE ,EWIS -ERTHYR PIT CLOSED IN 9OU CAN EXPLORE THE ENGINE WINDING HOUSES LAMP ROOM FAN HOUSE AND A SIMULATED hTRIP UNDERGROUNDv WITH STUNNING VISUALS AND SOUND EFFECTS RE CREATING S AND LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY LIFE AND DEATH THROUGH THE EYES OF COLLIERS !LTHOUGH ITS ALL LOOKING A BIT PAST ITS BEST THESE DAYS ITS A WORTHWHILE TRIP 4HE 4REHAFOD TRAIN STATION IS JUST A lVE MINUTE WALK FROM THE (ERITAGE 0ARK 4HE 2HONDDAS TWO VALLEYS DIVIDE AT THE BUSTLING TOWN OF 0/24( h'ATE WAYv A MILE BEYOND THE MUSEUM 4HE OLD #ORONA WORKS THAT DOMINATE THE TOWN HAVE METAMORPHOSED INTO 4HE 0OP &ACTORY WWW THEPOPFACTORYCOM A RECORDING STUDIO CUM PERFORMANCE SPACE THAT HAS DONE WONDERS FOR THE ECONOMIC AND CULTURAL CONlDENCE OF THE DISTRICT &ROM 0ORTH THE 2HONDDA &ACH ,ITTLE 2HONDDA 2IVER TWISTS ITS WAY NORTHWARDS THROUGH THE SMALLER AND FREQUENTLY FORGOTTEN VALLEY OF THE SAME NAME PASSING ENDLESS ARCHETYPAL 6ALLEYS TOWNS LIKE 9NYSHIR 0ONTYGWAITH 4YLORSTOWN &ERNDALE AND
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-AERDY n ROW AFTER ROW OF TINY HOUSES CLINGING TO SHEER VALLEY WALLS 4HE 2HONDDA &AWR 'REAT 2HONDDA STRETCHES FROM THE OUTSKIRTS OF 0ONTYPRIDD TO "LAENRHONDDA AND IS BLESSED WITH A TRAIN LINE A DECENT ROAD AND MOST OF THE SIGHTS 4HE lRST NOTABLE SETTLEMENT IS 4/.90!.$9 BIRTHPLACE OF THE LATE ,ORD 'EORGE 4HOMAS FORMER HONEY TONGUED 3PEAKER OF THE (OUSE OF #OMMONS WHO WAS WIDELY REVILED FOR HIS TOADYING TO THE ,ONDON ESTABLISHMENT OFTEN AT THE EXPENSE OF 7ALES 4ONYPANDY IS A MILE SHORT OF ,,79.90)! WEDGED IN BY WALKABLE FORESTED HILLSIDES &ROM HERE A STEEP TWO MILE CLIMB LEADS UP TO -YNYDD Y 'ELLI WHERE REMAINS OF AN )RON !GE HUT SETTLEMENT AND A "RONZE !GE BURIAL CHAMBER AND STONE CIRCLE CAN BE SEEN /N THE OTHER SIDE OF THE VALLEY FROM ,LWYNYPIA A SHEER PATH CLIMBS UP TO THE NOTORIOUS S HILLTOP ESTATE OF 0%.2(93 BUILT AS A LOFTY ANTIDOTE TO THE WEDGED IN VALLEY SETTLEMENTS ALL AROUND 5NFORTUNATELY THE 3IXTIES OPTIMISM RAPIDLY DISINTEGRATED LEAVING A SINK ESTATE EXPOSED TO THE WORST OF THE WEATHER AND BESET BY BAD SERVICES AND NUMEROUS SOCIAL PROBLEMS /N THE HILLSIDE LOOK ING DOWN INTO THE 2HONDDA &AWR YOU CAN SEE THE GROTTY #ATHOLIC SHRINE AND WELL OF 3T -ARY BY THE MAIN ROAD IN 0ENRHYS 4HE ROAD RIVER AND TRAIN LINE WIND TORTUOUSLY PAST AN ENDLESS STREAM OF TOWNS TO 42%/2#(9 4REORCI ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS MINING TOWNS IN 7ALES LARGELY DUE TO THE INTERNATIONAL FAME OF THE 4REORCHY -ALE #HOIR THE OLDEST IN 7ALES 6ISITORS ARE WELCOME TO REHEARSALS WHICH TAKE PLACE EACH 4UESDAY AND 4HURSDAY EVENING PRE ARRANGE WITH -R /"RIAN 4REORCHY IS ALSO HOME OF THE SPLENDID 0ARC AND $ARE (ALL A MULTIPURPOSE ARTS VENUE THATS ALWAYS BUSY &ROM 4REORCHY THE ! BRANCHES OFF THE VALLEY ROAD AND HEADS WEST UP THE MOUNTAINSIDE TWISTING ITS WAY AROUND -YNYDD -AENDY AND -YNYDD ,LANGEINWYR /NE OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR ROADS IN 7ALES IT DIVIDES TO HEAD WEST DOWN THE #WM !FAN AND SOUTH FOR THE #WM /GWR &AWR !T THE TOP OF THE 2HONDDA &AWR IS 42%(%2"%24 ITS STRAGGLE OF HOUSES CONTINUING UP THE VALLEY AT ",!%.#7- AND ",!%.2(/.$$! TWO COMMUNITIES EFFECTIVELY BYPASSED SINCE A NEW ROAD WAS BUILT IN THE S BY UNEMPLOYED
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4065)& "458"- & 4
MINERS CONNECTING 4REHERBERT TO THE FORESTS AND LAKES OF (IRWAUN #OMMON EN ROUTE TO "RECON 3PECTACULAR WALKS ABOUND IN THE 2HONDDA ! MILDLY DIFlCULT TWO MILE HIKE FROM "LAENCWM FOR INSTANCE LEADS TO THE REMARKABLE MOUND OF 0ENPYCH SITTING SENTINEL OVER THE 2HONDDA &AWR WHILE A DIVERSION EAST AT &ERNDALE IN THE 2HONDDA &ACH PASSES THE REMAINS OF A 2OMAN MARCHING CAMP 4WYN Y "RID DALLT AND /LD 3MOKEY AKA THE 4YLORSTOWN 4IP A HUGE PILE OF COLLIERY SPOIL WITH EXCELLENT VIEWS BEFORE WINDING UP AT THE ISOLATED LITTLE RIDGE TOP VILLAGE OF ,,!.7/../ WITH ITS REMOTE GLADES AN ANCIENT CHURCH AND A CRACKING VILLAGE PUB THE "RYNFFYNON !RMS 1SBDUJDBMJUJFT
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! TRAIN LINE PUNCTUATED WITH STOPS EVERY MILE OR SO RUNS THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE 2HONDDA &AWR FROM 0ONTYPRIDD TO ITS TERMINUS AT 4REHERBERT "USES ALSO COVER THE ROUTE CONTINUING UP INTO THE MOUNTAINS AND THE "RECON "EACONS !CCOMMODATION IN THE TWIN VALLEYS IS SPARSE BUT DECENT PLACES INCLUDE THE BUSINESS ORIENTED (ERITAGE 0ARK (OTEL BESIDE THE 2HONDDA (ERITAGE 0ARK AT 4REHAFOD WHICH HAS ITS OWN POOL AND 4HE "ERTIE BAR AND "" AT n 0HILLIPS 4ERRACE NOT FAR AWAY .EARER THE TOP END OF THE 2HONDDA &AWR IS THE REASONABLE "AGLAN (OTEL ON THE MAIN ROAD IN 4REHERBERT 4HERES HOSTEL ACCOMMODATION AT THE 'LYNCORNEL %NVIRONMENTAL #ENTRE ON .ANT Y 'WYDDON 2OAD lVE MINUTES FROM ,LWYNYPIA STATION GLYNCORNEL RHONDDA CYNON TAFFGOV UK BEDS a FOR WHICH PRE BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL &OR THE MOST PART EATING OPTIONS IN THE 2HONDDA TOWNS CONSIST OF A DIZZYING RANGE OF CHIP SHOPS AND #HINESE TAKEAWAYS THOUGH A FEW PUBS OFFER GOOD FOOD n TRY THE 'REENlELD AT 7ILLIAM 3T IN 9STRAD WHERE THE ROAD FROM 0ENRHYS AND THE 2HONDDA &ACH JOINS THE 2HONDDA &AWR OR THE ,ION AT "UTE 3T IN 4REORCHY BOTH ON THE MAIN ! THROUGH THE 2HONDDA &AWR
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2UNNING WEST FROM THE 2HONDDA THESE THREE VALLEYS ARE DIFFERENT TO THEIR BIG NEIGHBOUR THE CONTOURS ARE SLIGHTLY SOFTER THE OPEN SPACES WIDER AND THE TOWNS LESS BUSTLING 4HE /GWR 6ALLEY PLUNGES SOUTH FROM THE 2HONDDA &AWRS 4REORCHY VILLAGE THROUGH THE MORIBUND SETTLEMENTS OF .ANT Y MOEL AND /GMORE 6ALE BEFORE THE MAIN ROAD FORKS AT 0ONT YR AWEL FOR THE BRANCH ROAD OVER TO THE 'ARW 6ALLEY (IGH BETWEEN THE TWO IS THE ONE HORSE HAMLET OF ,,!.'%)./2 LITTLE MORE THAN A lNE MEDIEVAL CHURCH CIRCULAR VILLAGE GREEN GOOD COUNTRY PUB AND THE STARTING POINT FOR NUMEROUS PATHS RADIATING OUT OVER THE UPLAND MOORS 4HE /GWR 6ALLEY DESCENDS THROUGH ORDERLY LITTLE TOWNSHIPS EN ROUTE INTO "2)$'%.$ 0EN Y BONT AR /GWR AN ANCIENT SETTLEMENT THAT GUARDS THE ENTRANCE TO THE THREE VALLEYS #ONSEQUENTLY IT WAS DEEMED IMPORTANT ENOUGH TO HOUSE TWO .ORMAN CASTLES EITHER SIDE OF THE RIVER 4HE hOLD CASTLEv SURVIVES ONLY IN THE NAME OF THE SUBURB ON THE TOWN CENTRE SIDE OF THE RIVER WHILE OPPOSITE THE SCANT REMAINS OF THE hNEW CASTLEv HIGH ON A WOODED HILL ABOVE THE ! -AESTEG ROAD ARE NOTABLE MAINLY FOR THE SURVIVING LATE .ORMAN DECORATED GATEWAY 4HAT ASIDE THERES NOT MUCH TO OCCUPY YOU IN "RIDGEND ALTHOUGH ITS A USEFUL TRANSPORT INTERCHANGE WITH A GOOD SELECTION OF SHOPS AND A FEW HAND SOME BUILDINGS *UST OVER A MILE NORTHEAST OF THE TOWN ARE THE MORE SUBSTANTIAL REMAINS OF #OITY #ASTLE FREE ACCESS #!$7 BUILT AROUND THE END OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY BY ONE OF THE EARLIEST .ORMAN KNIGHTS IN THE AREA WHO IT IS SAID
4065)& "458"- & 4
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MARRIED THE DAUGHTER OFFERED TO HIM BY THE LOCAL 7ELSH CHIEFTAIN "RIDGEND IS ALSO VERY HANDY FOR 0ORTHCAWL %WENNY 0RIORY AND BEYOND DETAILED IN THE 6ALE OF 'LAMORGAN SECTION PPn 4HE 'ARW 6ALLEY IS A WORLD OF ITS OWN ONE OF THE DEAD END VALLEYS THAT CONSISTS OF A ROAD RIVER AND THE DISUSED RAILWAY CRAMMED IN ON THE VALLEY mOOR BEFORE THEY ALL PETER OUT INTO THE WOODED HILLSIDES -OST OF THE SCARS OF ITS MINING PAST HAVE NOW BEEN LEVELLED AND LANDSCAPED LEAVING THE VALLEY SURPRIS INGLY PRETTY AND AS ITS WELL OFF ANY TOURIST TRACK VERY REWARDING FOR GOOD WALKS AND CONGENIAL COMPANY IN THE PUBS AND SHOPS !T THE LOWER END OF THE VALLEY THE "RYNGARW #OUNTRY 0ARK DAILY DAWNn DUSK PEAK SEASON PARKING a IS A PLEASANT DIVERSION ,ANDSCAPED GARDENS EXCEPTIONAL mOWER COLLECTIONS AND MATURE WOODLANDS ARE GATHERED AROUND THE RESTORED "RYNGARW (OUSE WHICH NOW HOUSES A BISTRO AND CONFERENCE CENTRE 4HE HEAD OF THE VALLEY IS AT ",!%.'!27 LOCATION FOR THE lLM 6ERY !NNIE -ARY 4HE OLD 7ORKMENS (ALL HAS BEEN TRANS FORMED INTO A BUSTLING COMMUNITY SPACE WITH CINEMA WORKSHOPS )NTERNET ACCESS AND PERFORMANCE AREAS ALL BEHIND A FRONTAGE STUNNINGLY ENHANCED WITH MURALS AND MOSAICS 4HE ,LYNl 6ALLEY STRETCHING UP FROM "RIDGEND AND 4ONDU ALONG THE ! IS BROAD BOTTOMED AND LEAFY THE MAIN SETTLEMENT BEING THE DOWNBEAT TOWN OF -!%34%' NOTABLE FOR ITS SPACIOUS MAIN STREET REPUTEDLY 7ALES WIDEST 4HIS IS BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL STREET RAN PARALLEL WITH A TRAM LINE WHICH WAS LATER TARMACKED OVER AS AN EXTENSION OF THE ROAD ! SECTION OF THE ORIGINAL TRAM LINE FROM THE EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY CAN BE SEEN IN A MONUMENT DOWN NEAR THE IRON BRIDGE OVER THE !FON ,LYNl IN THE CENTRE OF TOWN /N THE HILL ABOVE IS A MORE CONTEMPORARY MEMORIAL THE IMPOSING BULK OF THE BLAST ENGINE HOUSE FROM THE ,LYNl )RONWORKS WHICH HAS BEEN CLEVERLY INCORPORATED AS THE ENTRANCE LOBBY OF THE NEW CIVIC SPORTS CENTRE %VEN SO YOU GET THE FEELING THAT -AESTEG IS STRUGGLING TO lND REPLACEMENTS FOR ITS LOST COLLIERIES FOR IT IS IN THESE MORE WESTERLY CORNERS OF THE 6ALLEYS THAT THE ECONOMIC PINCH IS FELT MOST KEENLY 4HERE IS UNDERSTANDABLE RESENTMENT THAT THE BETTER KNOWN VALLEYS PARTICULARLY THE 2HONDDA #YNON AND 4AFF HAVE SOAKED UP SO MUCH OF THE AREAS PUBLICITY AND AVAILABLE FUNDS #ONTINUING THROUGH -AESTEG THE MAIN ROAD LINKS UP WITH THE ! AT #YMER FOR #WM !FAN SEE BELOW /N TOP OF THE MOUNTAIN TO THE SOUTH OF -AESTEG IS THE BEAUTIFUL VILLAGE OF ,,!.'9.79$ "IRTH AND BURIAL PLACE OF BARD 7IL (OPCYN IT HAS AN ANCIENT ATMOSPHERE IN STARK CONTRAST TO THE EX MINING TOWNS BELOW 4HE SPLEN DID 9R (EN $$ PUB IS SAID TO BE THE OLDEST INN IN SOUTH 7ALES WHERE REVELLERS TRADITIONALLY CONGREGATE ON .EW 9EARS $AY FOR THE HALLOWED 7ELSH CUSTOM OF THE -ARI ,LWYD 'REY -ARE ! HORSES SKULL IS PARADED THROUGH THE VILLAGE TO WARD OFF EVIL SPIRITS DURING THE FORTHCOMING YEAR 4HE ONLY ACCOMMODATION IN THIS AREA IS AT "RYNGARW (OUSE INCLUDING DINNER IN THE COUNTRY PARK WHICH USUALLY CATERS FOR PRE BOOKED CONFERENCES WEDDING PARTIES AND THE LIKE )F YOURE EXPLORING THE AREA OR WANT TO CATCH SOMETHING AT THE "LAENGARW 7ORKMENS (ALL TELEPHONE THE HALL FOR SUGGESTIONS AS TO SOMEONE LOCAL WHO MIGHT OFFER "" /THERWISE THERE ARE MANY lNE WILD SITES TO PITCH A TENT
$XN"GBO 1PSU5BMCPUBOE.BSHBN !LTHOUGH NOT AS IDYLLIC AS ITS OPTIMISTIC h,ITTLE 3WITZERLANDv TOURIST BOARD TAG WOULD HAVE IT #7- !&!. WINDING ITS WAY BETWEEN THE TOP OF THE ,LYNl 6ALLEY AND THE COAST AT 0ORT 4ALBOT IS NONETHELESS A BUCOLIC SPOT THAT WARRANTS
4065)& "458"- & 4
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EXPLORATION WITH ALL TRACES OF INDUSTRY LONG EXPUNGED 4HE VALLEYS MAIN ATTRAC TION IS THE !FAN &OREST 0ARK ACRES OF HILLY FOREST AROUND AN EXCELLENT COUNTRYSIDE CENTRE !PRILn3EPT -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN AMn PM /CTn-ARCH -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM SUMMER PARKING aa THREE MILES WEST OF DOUR LITTLE #9-%2 4HE CENTRE HOUSES THE 3OUTH 7ALES -INERS -USEUM SAME TIMES a WHERE AN INFORMAL COLLECTION OF MINING MEMORABILIA LOOKING AT MINERS HOME AND WORKING LIVES RELIGION AND DANGERS lLLS NUMEROUS GLASS CASES 4HE CENTRE ALSO ORGANIZES REGULAR EVENTS AND WALKS HAS VARY BASIC CAMPING a PER PERSON AND A GREAT RANGE OF SELF CATERING UNITS FROM OLD FARMHOUSES TO LOG CABINS "UT ITS FOR MOUNTAIN BIKING THAT THE CENTRE AND FOREST HAVE BECOME BEST KNOWN WAYMARKED TRAILS SUITING ALL LEVELS OF ABILITY AND DARING SNAKE OUT THROUGHOUT THE VICINITY )F YOU DONT HAVE YOUR OWN BIKE THEY CAN BE RENTED FROM !FAN 6ALLEY "IKE (IRE FROM a PER DAY IN NEARBY 'LYNCORRWG DELIVERY CAN BE ARRANGED 4HE VALLEY DESCENDS TOWARDS THE SEA REACHING THE mOOR VILLAGE OF 0/.42(9$9&%. IN A COUPLE OF MILES !CTOR 2ICHARD "URTON WAS BORN IN A HOUSE AT THE FOOT OF ONE OF THE IMPRESSIVE VIADUCTS THAT SLICE THROUGH THE VILLAGE &ROM HERE ROADS EITHER SIDE OF THE RIVER CONTINUE SOUTH TO THE INDUSTRIAL SPRAWL OF 0/24 4!,"/4 STILL DOMINATED BY ITS MASSIVE STEELWORKS )TS A TOWN IN WHICH YOURE UNLIKELY TO LINGER THOUGH A FEW 6ICTORIAN TOUCHES REMAIN IN THE LARGELY MODERN TOWN CENTRE AND THE DOCKS INCLUDING THE IMPRESSIVE MODERN DEEP WATER HARBOUR WITH ITS MILE LONG BREAKWATER PROVIDE PLENTY OF ACTION 4HE SUBURB OF !BERAVON HAS A LONG AND SANDY IF FAIRLY FEATURELESS SEAFRONT LINED WITH A FEW FUN PUBS AND NIGHTCLUBS AS WELL AS THE EVER POPULAR !FAN ,IDO SITE OF BIG CONCERTS AND SPORTS EVENTS AND THE SWISH NEW !QUA$OME A LEISURE POOL WITH ALL THE TRIMMINGS ! COUPLE OF MILES SOUTHEAST OF 0ORT 4ALBOT ON THE OTHER SIDE OF JUNCTION OF THE - LIES -!2'!- ORIGINALLY A #ISTERCIAN SETTLEMENT AND LATER THE HOME OF VARIOUS INDUSTRIAL MAGNATES 4HE lRST LEFT TURN AFTER THE MOTORWAY JUNCTION LEADS TO THE IMPRESSIVE !BBEY CHURCH THE SOLE REMAINING #ISTERCIAN HOUSE OF WORSHIP IN 7ALES 4HE HARMONIOUS )TALIANATE FRONTAGE IS LARGELY DUE TO NINETEENTH CENTURY RESTORATION ALTHOUGH ORIGINAL TWELFTH CENTURY FEATURES CAN BE SEEN HERE AND INSIDE n THE SOLID ARCADES ARE PARTICULARLY NOTABLE 4HE NEIGHBOURING -ARGAM 3TONES -USEUM 7EDn3UN AMnPM a #!$7 HOUSING NUMEROUS IMPORTANT 2OMAN #ELTIC AND MEDIEVAL STANDING STONES AS WELL AS lGURES AND GARGOYLES FROM DESTROYED 7ELSH CHURCHES AND MONASTERIES IS SUPERB n PAY AND COLLECT THE KEY IN THE !BBOTS +ITCHEN CAFÏ BANG OPPOSITE THE !BBEY ,YING JUST THE OTHER SIDE OF THE !BBEY CHURCH AND ACCESSED BY CAR ALONG THE NEXT TURN OFF FROM THE MAIN ROAD -ARGAM #OUNTRY 0ARK CASTLE AND GROUNDS !PRILn3EPT DAILY AMnPM /CTn-ARCH PARK ONLY -ONn4UES PM 7EDn3UN AMnPM FREE BUT a CAR PARKING CHARGE IS CENTRED AROUND THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 'OTHIC PILE OF -ARGAM #ASTLE 4HERES A LOT TO SEE AND DO WITHIN THE GROUNDS WALKS GO UP TO THE RUINED HILLTOP #APEL -AIR AROUND -YNYDD Y #ASTELL )RON !GE FORT AND THROUGH SUPERB mORAL GROUNDS DOTTED WITH SOME EXCITING CONTEMPORARY SCULPTURE BY SOME BIG NAMES LIKE "ARBARA (EPWORTH AND %LIZABETH &RINK 4UCKED IN BY THE !BBEY CHURCH WALLS ARE THE IMPRESSIVE REMAINS OF THE ORIGINAL #ISTERCIAN ABBEY MOST NOTABLE FOR THE VAULTING OF THE TWELVE SIDED CHAPTER HOUSE WHICH SURVIVED THE DISSOLUTION OF THE MONASTERIES ONLY TO HAVE ITS ROOF COLLAPSE UNDER THE WEIGHT OF WEED AND PLANTS IN .EARBY IS -ARGAMS SHOWPIECE ORANGERY A SPLENDID 'EORGIAN OUTHOUSE BUILT IN AND FT LONG .ESTLED IN THE SAME CORNER ARE A KIDS
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4HE BEST BASE FOR TOURIST ACCOMMODATION IN THESE PARTS IS #WM !FAN THE COUNTRYSIDE CENTRE SEE ABOVE ORGANIZES CAMPING AND SELF CATERING OPTIONS WHILE THE BEST LOCAL "" IS "RYNTEG (OUSE JUST OFF THE MAIN ROAD AT #RAIG Y &AN IN #YMER )N -ARGAM THERES 4YN Y #AEAU GAEN TYNYCAEAUFREESERVECOUK A SEVENTEENTH CENTURY VICARAGE CUM GUESTHOUSE JUST OFF THE MAIN ROAD ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE MOTORWAY JUNCTION FROM -ARGAM 0ARK 4HERE ARE NUMEROUS CHEAP AND STODGY CAFÏS IN 0ORT 4ALBOT AND !BERAVON OR YOU CAN lND FOOD IN THE ,ORD #ARADOC PUB ON 3TATION 2OAD IN 0ORT 4ALBOT AND MANY OF THE COUNTRY PUBS ALONG THE WINDING MAIN ROADS
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hFAIRYLANDv PLAY AREA AND A GREAT BOX HEDGE MAZE 7ATERFALLS SCULPTURE AND SOME SPLENDID SHRUBBERY lLL THE SPACES AROUND THE CEREMONIAL BOARDWALK LEADING UP TO THE CASTLE 4HE MANSION WAS GUTTED BY lRE IN BUT YOU CAN STILL WANDER INTO THE LOBBY AND PEER UP THE OCTAGONAL LANTERN TOWER AND SEE A FEW MODELS AND PHOTOS )N THE COURTYARD THERES A CAFÏ AND SHOP
$BSEJGG /FlCIAL CAPITAL OF 7ALES SINCE ONLY THE BUOYANT CITY OF #!2$)&& #AERDYDD HAS SWIFTLY GROWN INTO ITS NEW STATUS 4HE CITYS EVOLUTION HAS BEEN HASTENED BY A NUMBER OF MASSIVE DEVELOPMENTS NOT LEAST THE SHINY NEW BUILDINGS HOUSING THE 7ELSH .ATIONAL !SSEMBLY AND -ILLENNIUM #ENTRE FOR THE ARTS ON THE REJUVENATED #ARDIFF "AY WATERFRONT AND A FABULOUS CITY CENTRE SPORTS STADIUM 4HESE TOGETHER WITH ALL OF THE OTHER ECONOMIC AND SOCIAL BENElTS THAT mOW IN THEIR SLIPSTREAM ARE lNALLY GIVING THE CITY THE TRUE FEEL OF AN INTERNATIONAL CAPITAL -ANY OF THE CITYS RIVALS n AMONGST THEM -ACHYNLLETH SEAT OF 'LYND"RS PARLIAMENT 3WANSEA A LARGE SPRAWLING AND UNMISTAKABLY 7ELSH CITY AND EVEN ,UDLOW AN %NGLISH BORDER TOWN ONCE THE SEAT OF THE #OUNCIL OF THE -ARCHES n DISMISSED #ARDIFF AS A YOUNG UPSTART 4RUE THE CIVIC CHARTER INCORPORATING #ARDIFF DATES ONLY FROM AND BEFORE THE COAL EXPORTING EXPLOSION DURING THE NINETEENTH CENTURY IT WAS AN INSIGNIlCANT lSHING VILLAGE 4HE hNOT VERY 7ELSHv CHARGE IS ALSO FREQUENTLY LEVELLED AT THE CITY THOUGH THIS IS SURELY CHANG ING AS MORE YOUNGSTERS FROM 7ELSH SPEAKING 7ALES mOCK TO THE CITY FOR JOBS IN EDUCATION GOVERNMENT AND MEDIA 4HE CENSUS SHOWED THAT OVER TEN PERCENT OF PEOPLE IN THE CAPITAL NOW SPEAK #YMRAEG n MORE THAN DOUBLE THE lGURE OF FORTY YEARS AGO !S WELL AS ITS CULTURAL AND POLITICAL PROlLE #ARDIFF HAS A MIGHTY REPUTATION IN ANY LANGUAGE AS A HARD DRINKING PARTY TOWN AND YOU NEED ONLY WANDER AROUND THE CENTRE ON A WEEKEND NIGHT TO SEE THE PROOF 7ITH SOME SERIOUSLY GOOD FOOD DRINK AND DANCING OPTIONS AND A RAPIDLY IMPROVING SELECTION OF VISITOR ACCOMMODATION ITS NO SURPRISE THAT #ARDIFF IS THE FASTEST GROWING CITY BREAK DESTINATION IN "RITAIN 2IGHT NOW #ARDIFF S GREAT ASSET IS ITS TERRIlC ENERGY SOMETHING THAT NO ONE WHO WANTS TO ENJOY 7ALES SHOULD MISS 4PNFIJTUPSZ
)T IS KNOWN THAT SOME OF THE 2OMAN TRIBES FROM )SCA SETTLED IN #ARDIFF BUILDING A SMALL CIVILIAN VILLAGE ALONGSIDE THE MILITARY FORT 4HE FORT IS THOUGHT TO HAVE BEEN LARGELY UNINHABITED FROM THE 2OMANS DEPARTURE UNTIL THE .ORMAN INVASION WHEN 7ILLIAM THE #ONQUEROR OFFERED 7ELSH LAND TO HIS KNIGHTS IF THEY COULD SUBDUE THE
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]$BSEJGG
LOCAL TRIBES )N 2OBERT &ITZ(AMON BUILT A SIMPLE FORT ON A MOATED HILLOCK THAT STILL STANDS TODAY IN THE GROUNDS OF THE CASTLE ! TOWN GREW UP IN THE LEE OF THE FORTRESS BECOMING A SMALL COMMUNITY OF lSHERMEN AND FARMERS THAT REMAINED A QUIET BACKWATER UNTIL THE END OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY 4HE "UTE FAMILY LORDS OF THE MANOR OF #ARDIFF INSTIGATED NEW DEVELOPMENTS ON THEIR LAND STARTING WITH THE CONSTRUCTION OF A CANAL FROM -ERTHYR 4YDlL THEN 7ALES LARGEST TOWN TO #ARDIFF IN 4HE SECOND -ARQUIS OF "UTE BUILT THE lRST DOCK IN OPENING OTHERS IN SWIFT SUCCESSION 4HE "UTES WHO OWNED MASSIVE SWATHS OF THE RAPIDLY INDUSTRIALIZING SOUTH 7ALES VALLEYS INSISTED THAT ALL COAL AND IRON EXPORTS USED THE FAMILY DOCKS IN #ARDIFF AND IT BECAME ONE OF THE BUSIEST PORTS IN THE WORLD "Y THE BEGINNING OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY #ARDIFF S POPULATION HAD SOARED TO FROM ITS lGURE OF AROUND AND THE AMBITIOUS NEW CIVIC CENTRE IN #ATHAYS 0ARK WAS WELL UNDER WAY 4HE TWENTIETH CENTURY SAW THE CITYS FORTUNES RISE PLUMMET AND RISE AGAIN 4HE DOCK TRADE SLUMPED IN THE S AND THE CITY SUFFERED HEAVY BOMBING IN 7ORLD 7AR )) BUT WITH THE CREATION OF #ARDIFF AS CAPITAL IN n WIDELY FELT TO BE LONG OVERDUE n OPTIMISM AND CONlDENCE IN THE CITY HAVE BLOSSOMED -ANY GOVERNMENT AND MEDIA INSTITUTIONS HAVE MOVED HERE FROM ,ONDON ESPECIALLY SINCE THE INAUGURATION OF THE .ATIONAL !SSEMBLY IN AND THE CITYS ENTER TAINMENT AND LEISURE SECTORS HAVE NO RIVAL IN 7ALES !LTHOUGH IT GETS DENTED ON OCCASION THERE IS A TANGIBLE FEELING OF OPTIMISM TO THE PLACE
"SSJWBM JOGPSNBUJPOBOEHFUUJOHBSPVOE #ARDIFF INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT WWWCIALCOUK IS TEN MILES SOUTHWEST OF THE CITY ON THE OTHER SIDE OF "ARRY 4HE CHEAPEST WAY TO REACH THE CITY CENTRE IS ON A SHUTTLE BUS FROM THE MAIN TERMINAL TO 2HOOSE #ARDIFF )NTERNATIONAL !IRPORT TRAIN STATION AND THEN A CONNECTING TRAIN -ONn3AT HOURLY 3UN TWO HOURLY a COMBINED TICKET !LTERNATIVELY THE MORE CONVENIENT DIRECT !IR"US 8PRESS SERVICE 8 RUNS AT LEAST HOURLY EVERY DAY a AND TAKES YOU FROM THE MAIN TERMINAL INTO THE CITY BUS STATION ON THE SOUTHWESTERN SIDE OF THE CITY CENTRE WHICH SERVES ALL .ATIONAL %XPRESS LOCAL AND TRANS 7ALES BUS ROUTES !CROSS THE FORECOURT IS #ARDIFF #ENTRAL TRAIN STATION FOR ALL INTER CITY SERVICES INCLUDING A SPEEDY HOURLY SHUTTLE TO ,ONDON AS WELL AS MANY SUBURBAN AND 6ALLEY ,INE SERVICES 1UEEN 3TREET STATION AT THE EASTERN EDGE OF THE CENTRE IS FOR LOCAL SERVICES ONLY INCLUDING TO #ARDIFF "AY 4HE EXCELLENT TOURIST OFlCE AT THE /LD ,IBRARY ON 4HE (AYES -ONn3AT AMnPM UNTIL PM *ULY !UG 3UN AMnPM WWWVISITCARDIFFINFO IS A lVE MINUTE WALK FROM THE BUS AND TRAIN STATIONS 3TAFF CAN BOOK ACCOMMODATION PROVIDE GOOD FREE MAPS OF THE CITY AND GIVE DETAILS OF WALKING TOURS AND JAUNTS SUCH AS THE #ARDIFF 3IGHTSEEING BUS TOUR EVERY MIN %ASTERn/CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn#HRISTMAS 3AT 3UN ONLY AMnPM a AN OPEN TOP DOUBLE DECKER WHICH STARTS FROM OUTSIDE THE CASTLE AND CARVES A CIRCUIT AROUND THE CITY AND #ARDIFF "AY ALLOWING YOU TO GET ON AND OFF AT WILL 9OU SHOULD ALSO BE ABLE TO PICK UP A COPY OF "UZZ A FREE OCCASIONALLY RIBALD MONTHLY GUIDE TO ARTS AND EVENTS IN THE CITY &OR MORE ESOTERIC INFORMATION INCLUDING mIERS FOR GIGS AND CLUB NIGHTS TRY SOME OF THE SHOPS IN THE #ASTLE AND (IGH 3TREET ARCADES SEE P
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#ARDIFF IS AN EASY AND COMPACT CITY TO WALK AROUND AS EVEN THE BAY AREA IS WITHIN THIRTY MINUTES STROLL OF #ENTRAL STATION /NCE YOURE OUT OF THE CENTRE
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HOWEVER ITS BEST TO FALL BACK ON THE EXTENSIVE BUS NETWORK MOST RELIABLY OPERATED BY THE #ARDIFF "US "WS #AERDYDD COMPANY )T HAS SALES OFlCES AND INFORMATION KIOSKS OPPOSITE THE BUS STATION ON 7OOD 3TREET -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM AND IN -ARKS 3PENCER ON 1UEEN 3TREET -ONn7ED AMnPM 4HURSn3AT AMnPM 4HE CITY IS DIVIDED INTO FOUR COLOUR CODED FARE ZONES AND PRICES DEPEND ON THE NUMBER OF ZONES CROSSED AND THE TIME YOU TRAVEL RANGING FROM P IN A SINGLE ZONE TO a ACROSS ALL FOUR "OUGHT FROM A #ARDIFF "US SALES OFlCE OR ON THE BUS ITSELF A #ITY 2IDER TICKET a GIVES UNLIMITED TRAVEL AROUND #ARDIFF AND 0ENARTH FOR A DAY A RANGE WHICH CAN BE EXTENDED TO "ARRY THE 6ALE OF 'LAMORGAN THE #AERPHILLY DISTRICT AND .EWPORT WITH THE .ETWORK 2IDER TICKET a 7ITH A MULTIRIDE TICKET a YOU CAN TRAVEL AROUND #ARDIFF AND 0ENARTH FOR A WEEK OR FOR A FEW POUNDS MORE EXTEND THE TICKET FURTHER )F YOU WANT TO USE LOCAL TRAINS AS WELL AS BUSES THE #APITAL #ARD IS AVAILABLE FOR ONE DAY a AFTER AM -ONn&RI ANY TIME 3AT 3UN BUY IT ON THE lRST BUS OR TRAIN OR ONE WEEK a BUY FROM BUS OFlCE OR TRAIN STATION ONLY 4HE LAST BUSES LEAVE THE CITY CENTRE AT AROUND PM ALTHOUGH THERE ARE FOUR NIGHT BUS SERVICES OPERATING HOURLY FROM 7ESTGATE 3TREET UNTIL AM ON &RIDAY AND 3ATURDAY NIGHTS ONLY /THERWISE YOULL HAVE TO RELY ON TAXIS WHICH CAN BE FOUND IN RANKS AT #ENTRAL STATION $UKE 3TREET BY THE CASTLE AND 1UEEN 3TREET STATION !LTERNATIVELY RELIABLE CAB COMPANIES INCLUDE #APITAL #ARS AND $RAGON -ETRO 4HERES CHEAP BIKE RENTAL FROM THE COUNCIL CAMPSITE IN 0ONTCANNA &IELDS SEE P
4065)& "458"- & 4
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"DDPNNPEBUJPO #ARDIFF S ACCOMMODATION RUNS THE GAMUT WITH MAJOR HOTELS CONCENTRATED IN THE CITY CENTRE AND THE "AY AND A WELL ESTABLISHED BELT OF GUESTHOUSES AND HOTELS LINING THE LEAFY #ATHEDRAL 2OAD IN THE SUBURB OF 0ONTCANNA A PLEASANT lFTEEN MINUTE WALK FROM THE CITY CENTRE 4HERE IS LITTLE REASON TO TRY ELSEWHERE THOUGH YOU MIGHT CONSIDER STAYING IN THE BREEZY RESORT OF 0ENARTH SEE P A TEN MINUTE TRAIN HOP AROUND THE "AY !LTERNATIVELY THERES THE FABULOUS /LD 0OST /FlCE IN 3T &AGANS FOUR MILES WEST OF #ARDIFF THATS A WORLD AWAY FROM MOST HOTELS IN THE CITY SEE P )PUFMTBOEHVFTUIPVTFTJOUIFDJUZDFOUSF
!LL THESE PLACES ARE MARKED ON THE MAP ON P
4065)& "458"- & 4
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#ARDIFF S SIGHTS ARE CLUSTERED AROUND FAIRLY SMALL DISTINCT DISTRICTS #OMPACT AND EASILY NAVIGABLE ON FOOT THE COMMERCIAL CENTRE IS BOUNDED BY THE 2IVER 4AFF n SOURCE OF THE NICKNAME OF GENERATIONS OF EXPATRIATE 7ELSH n ON THE WESTERN SIDE 4HE 4AFF mOWS PAST THE WALLS OF #ARDIFF S EXTRAORDINARY CASTLE AN AMALGAM OF 2OMAN REMAINS .ORMAN KEEP AND 6ICTORIAN FANTASY .EARBY IS THE STONK ING GREAT -ILLENNIUM 3TADIUM HOME OF 7ELSH RUGBY AND THE NATIONS SOCCER TEAM .EAR THE SOUTHEAST TIP OF THE CASTLE WALLS IS #ARDIFF S MAIN CROSSROADS WHERE GREAT %DWARDIAN SHOPPING BOULEVARDS 1UEEN 3TREET AND (IGH 3TREET CONCEAL A WORLD OF ARCADES GREAT STORES AND PREDICTABLY BLAND MALLS .ORTH OF THE CASTLE ARE A SERIES OF WHITE %DWARDIAN BUILDINGS n THE SPACIOUS CIVIC CENTRE AROUND #ATHAYS 0ARK HOME OF THE .ATIONAL -USEUM #ITY (ALL AND #ARDIFF 5NIVERSITY ! MILE SOUTH OF THE COMMERCIAL CENTRE IS THE AREA AROUND #ARDIFF "AY ONCE THE CITYS LIVELIEST DISTRICT AND ON THE UP AGAIN SINCE THE INCEPTION OF THE #ARDIFF "AY REDEVELOPMENT PROJECT AND THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE BARRAGE TO FORM A VAST FRESHWATER LAKE 4HE SURROUNDING WATERFRONT HOME TO SOME lNE BARS AND EATERIES HAS BEEN SPRUCED UP CONSIDERABLY THE RECENT ARRIVAL OF THE STUNNING NEW .ATIONAL !SSEMBLY AND 7ALES -ILLENNIUM #ENTRE BUILDINGS HAVING HELPED THINGS ENORMOUSLY 4HE OTHER CITY AREA THAT IS MOST LIKELY TO DETAIN YOU IS THE ELEGANT SUBURB OF ,LANDAFF TWO MILES NORTHWEST OF THE CITY CENTRE ABOVE THE BANKS OF THE 4AFF AND STILL FEELING LIKE A CLOSELY KNIT VILLAGE BUILT AROUND THE CITYS PATCHWORK CATHEDRAL
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4HE GEOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORICAL HEART OF THE CITY IS #ARDIFF #ASTLE DAILY -ARCHn/CT AMnPM TOURS EVERY MIN .OVn&EB AMnPM TOURS
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AGAINST OLD ENEMY %NGLAND n THE STADIUM AND SURROUNDING STREETS ARE CHARGED WITH GOOD NATURED BEERY FERVOUR 4HESE DAYS THE STADIUM IS ALSO USED FOR 7ALES INTERNATIONAL FOOTBALL MATCHES AND FOR A HOST OF HUGE ROCK GIGS AND OTHER MUSI CAL SPECTACULARS 4HE STADIUM TOURS INCLUDE WALKING THE PLAYERS TUNNEL VISITING THE DRESSING ROOMS 6)0 AREAS AND A RUGBY MUSEUM 4HEY START FROM THE STADIUM SHOP AT %NTRANCE 'ATE ON 7ESTGATE 3TREET 4HE STADIUMS TICKET OFlCE CAN BE FOUND AT 3T -ARY 3T 2UNNING UP FROM #ENTRAL STATION TO THE CASTLE WALLS IS 3T -ARY 3TREET ONE OF THE CITYS GRANDEST BOULEVARDS OF ORNATE 6ICTORIAN AND %DWARDIAN SHOP FRONT AGES 3T -ARY 3TREET LEADS NORTH TO BECOME THE (IGH 3TREET WHERE AT NO YOULL lND THE 43/ "OOKSHOP -ONn3AT AMnPM A GOOD STOCKIST OF 7ELSH INTEREST PUBLICATIONS MAPS AND TRAVEL PARAPHERNALIA /FF (IGH 3TREET IS THE ELEGANT 6ICTORIAN INDOOR MARKET GREAT FOR FRESH FOOD AND SPECIALIST BRIC A BRAC STALLS !LONG BOTH STREETS RENOVATED %DWARDIAN ARCADES WITH SOME OF THE CITY CENTRES MOST INTERESTING SHOPS INSIDE LEAD OFF BETWEEN THE BUILDINGS /F THESE (IGH 3TREET AND #ASTLE ARCADES AT THE TOP OF (IGH 3TREET ARE THE MOST REWARDING PACKED WITH GREAT CLUB CLOTHES SHOPS QUIRKY GIFT PLACES FAB LITTLE COFFEE HOUSES AND A RANGE OF ESOTERIC EMPORIA WHERE YOU CAN PICK UP mIERS FOR CLUBS AND EVENTS &URTHER DOWN THE (IGH 3TREET TOWARDS #ENTRAL STATION THE GLORIOUS -ORGAN !RCADE AND ITS NEAR NEIGHBOUR THE 2OYAL !RCADE RUN EAST TO THE BOTTOM OF 4HE (AYES A PEDESTRIANIZED STREET OF DISPARATE RESTAURANTS AND SOME GREAT PUBS ! FEW YARDS TO THE SOUTH 4HE (AYES MEETS UP AT A JUNCTION OF lVE STREETS BY THE OLD "RAINS BREWERY OPPOSITE THE 7ALES .ATIONAL )CE 2INK HOME TO ONE OF "RITAINS TOP ICE HOCKEY TEAMS THE #ARDIFF $EVILS BUT DUE TO BE DEMOLISHED AS PART OF THE AREAS FORTHCOMING REDEVELOPMENT AN UPGRADED REPLACEMENT IS DUE IN THE PROJECTED )NTERNATIONAL 3PORTS 6ILLAGE IN THE "AY !T THE JUNCTION "RIDGE 3TREET RUNS AWAY TO THE EAST AND INTO THE ELEGANT 2EGENCY PART OF THE CITY CENTRE AROUND $AVID AND #HARLES STREETS 3LICING OFF SOUTH FROM 4HE (AYES OPPOSITE THE -ARRIOTT HOTEL IS CHEERFUL -ILL ,ANE #ARDIFF S SELF PROCLAIMED CAFÏ QUARTER 4HE (AYES LEADS NORTH TO THE BEAUTIFULLY SANDBLASTED AND COLONNADED FRONTAGE OF THE /LD ,IBRARY HOME TO THE CITYS TOURIST OFlCE SEE P !T THE /LD ,IBRARY 4HE (AYES DIVIDES AROUND THE lFTEENTH CENTURY GREY LIMESTONE PARISH CHURCH OF 3T *OHN 4HE MOST NOTABLE FEATURE n THE SLENDER TOWER n IS DIFlCULT TO APPRECIATE WITH THE CLUSTER OF BUILDINGS AROUND IT ALTHOUGH THE LIGHT AND GRACEFUL INTERIOR IS WORTH SEEING ESPECIALLY FOR THE mORIDLY POMPOUS ALTAR IN THE SOUTH AISLE BY PROLIlC 6ICTORIAN SCULPTOR 'OSCOMBE *OHN 4HE RIGHT TURN AT THE /LD ,IBRARY IS 7ORKING 3TREET A VERY BUSY SHOPPING AREA ESPECIALLY AROUND THE ENTRANCES TO THE GARGANTUAN 3T $AVIDS #ENTRE AND THE 3T $AVIDS (ALL COMPLEX WHICH BETWEEN THEM HAVE SUCCEEDED IN OBLITERATING A HUGE SECTION OF THE OLD CITY CENTRE ALTHOUGH 3T $AVIDS (ALL SERVES AS A MUCH NEEDED CONCERT AND ENTERTAINMENT VENUE 1UEEN 3TREET IS #ARDIFF S MOST IMPRESSIVE SHOPPING THOROUGHFARE NOW PEDESTRIANIZED WITH MANY OF THE lNE NINETEENTH CENTURY BUILDINGS SPRUCED UP ONLY TO BE EFFACED BY THE FRONTAGES TYPICAL OF A "RITISH SHOPPING STREET 4HAT SAID 1UEEN 3TREET IS USUALLY DEPENDABLE FOR THE BUSKERS STREET THEATRE HAWKERS AND IDLERS THAT MAKE IT A VERY EASY PLACE TO WHILE AWAY A FEW HOURS !T THE WESTERN END OF THE STREET A TYPICALLY PUGNACIOUS STATUE OF !NEURIN "EVAN POSTWAR ,ABOUR POLITICIAN AND CLASSIC 7ELSH lREBRAND STANDS ALOOF FROM THE BUSTLE
4065)& "458"- & 4
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DAILY FULL TOUR a GROUNDS ONLY a AN INTRIGUING HOTCHPOTCH OF REMNANTS OF THE CITYS PAST 4HE FORTRESS HIDES INSIDE A VAST WALLED YARD EACH SIDE MEASURING WELL OVER YARDS LONG AND CORRESPONDING ROUGHLY TO THE OUTLINE OF THE ORIGINAL FORT BUILT BY THE 2OMANS ! FEW DOZEN YARDS OF 2OMAN WALL THE SOLE REMINDER OF THEIR PRESENCE HAS BEEN UNEARTHED TO THE IMMEDIATE RIGHT OF THE ENTRANCE IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY "LACK 4OWER ON #ASTLE 3TREET AND IS NOW LIT AND LABELLED ALONG WITH SOME EXCELLENT THREE DIMENSIONAL MURALS DEPICTING LIFE IN A 2OMAN FORT 4UCKED INTO THE SOUTHEASTERN CORNER WALL BEYOND THE 2OMAN SEGMENT ARE THE DRY REGIMENTAL MUSEUMS OF THE 1UEENS $RAGOON 'UARDS AND THE 7ELSH 2EGIMENT lLLED WITH A STARCHY COLLECTION OF MILITARY MEMORABILIA &ROM HERE WALKWAYS LEAD ALONG THE BATTLEMENTS FOR SOME EXCELLENT VIEWS OVER THE CITY /CCUPYING THE NORTHWESTERN CORNER OF THE CASTLE GROUNDS IS A NEAT .ORMAN MOTTE CROWNED WITH THE ELEVENTH CENTURY KEEP WITH VIEWS DOWN ONTO THE TURRETS AND TOWERS OF THE DOMESTIC BUILDINGS DATING IN PART FROM THE FOURTEENTH AND lFTEENTH CENTURIES BUT MUCH EXTENDED IN 4UDOR TIMES WHEN RESIDENTIAL NEEDS BEGAN TO OVERTAKE MILITARY SAFETY IN TERMS OF PRIORITY 5LTIMATELY IT WAS THE THIRD -ARQUIS OF "UTE n ONE OF THE RICHEST MEN ON THE GLOBE WHO LAVISHED A FORTUNE ON UPGRADING HIS PILE COMMISSIONING ARCHITECT AND DECORA TOR 7ILLIAM "URGES n TO AID HIM 7ITH THEIR PASSION FOR THE RELIGIOUS ART AND THE SYMBOLISM OF THE -IDDLE !GES THEY SYSTEMATICALLY OVERHAULED THE BUILDINGS ADDING A SPIRE TO THE OCTAGONAL TOWER AND ERECTING A CLOCKTOWER BUT IT WAS INSIDE THAT THEIR IMAGINATIONS RAN FREE AND THEY RADICALLY TRANSFORMED THE CRUMBLING INTERIORS INTO PALACES OF VIVID COLOUR AND INTRICATE HIGH CAMP DESIGN 4HESE BUILDINGS CAN ONLY BE SEEN AS PART OF THE GUIDED TOUR MAKING THE EXTRA FEE WELL WORTHWHILE 4HE TOUR STARTS IN THE SQUARE CORNERED CLOCKTOWER RUNNING THROUGH THE 7INTER 3MOKING 2OOM AT THE BOTTOM UP TO THE "ACHELORS "EDROOM AND BATHROOM AND ABOVE THAT THE 3UMMER 3MOKING 2OOM !LL ARE DECORATED IN RICH PATTERNS OF GOLD MAROON AND COBALT WITH MANY OF THE IMAGES CULLED FROM MEDIEVAL MYTHS AND BELIEFS &ROM HERE THE TOUR GOES THROUGH THE .URSERY WITH HAND PAINTED TILES AND SILHOUETTE LANTERNS DEPICTING CONTEMPORARY NURSERY RHYMES THE !RAB 2OOM DECORATED BY IMPORTED CRAFTSMEN AND INTO THE GRAND "ANQUETING (ALL WHICH DATES ORGINALLY FROM BUT WAS TRANSFORMED BY "UTE AND "URGES WITH THE INSTALLATION OF A RIOTOUSLY KITSCH lREPLACE )N ALL THE ROOMS FANTASTICALLY RICH TRIMMINGS COMPLEMENT THE GAUDY STYLE SO BELOVED OF TWO NINETEENTH CENTURY ECCENTRICS AND ITS WORTH REMEMBERING THAT AS ONE OF OVER SIXTY RESIDENCES OWNED BY THE "UTES IN "RITAIN ALONE #ARDIFF WAS ONLY LIVED IN FOR SIX WEEKS OF THE YEAR 4HE LAST POINT OF NOTE IN #ARDIFF #ASTLE CAN ONLY BE SEEN FROM OUTSIDE THE PRECINCTS 4HE !NIMAL 7ALL WHERE STONE CREATURES ARE FROZEN IN IMPUDENT POSES WAS ANOTHER TONGUE IN CHEEK NINETEENTH CENTURY CREATION RUNNING ALL ALONG THE ROUTE OF #ASTLE 3TREET WEST TO THE RIVER BRIDGE $BUIBZT1BSLBOEUIFDJWJDDFOUSF
/N THE NORTH SIDE OF THE CITY CENTRE ONLY A HUNDRED YARDS FROM THE NORTHEAST ERN WALL OF THE CASTLE PRECINCT IS THE AREA KNOWN MOST COMMONLY AS #ATHAYS 0ARK 4HE PARK ITSELF IS REALLY THE LARGE RECTANGLE OF GREENERY THAT FORMS THE CENTREPIECE FOR THE IMPRESSIVE %DWARDIAN BUILDINGS OF THE CIVIC CENTRE BUT THE TERM #ATHAYS 0ARK IS GENERALLY USED FOR THE WHOLE COMPLEX $ATING FROM THE lRST COUPLE OF DECADES OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY THE GLEAMING WHITE BUILDINGS ARRANGED WITH POMPOUS %DWARDIAN PRECISION SPEAK VOLUMES ABOUT #ARDIFF S SELF CONlDENCE A FULL HALF CENTURY BEFORE IT WAS OFlCIALLY DECLARED CAPITAL OF
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7ALES 4HE BUSY "OULEVARD DE .ANTES NAMED AFTER #ARDIFF S TWIN CITY IN "RITTANY FRONTS THE COMPLEX ON THE CITY CENTRE SIDE 4HE CENTREPIECE IS THE MAGNIlCENT DOMED DRAGON TOPPED #ITY (ALL AN EXERCISE IN OSTENTATIOUS CIVIC SELF GLORY THAT IS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC IN NORMAL OFlCE HOURS .OTE THE 0EACE 3CULPTURE IN THE MAIN ENTRANCE LOBBY AS YOU GO IN IT DEPICTS ONE OF THE WOMEN WHO MARCHED FROM #ARDIFF IN TO ESTABLISH THE 'REENHAM #OMMON PEACE CAMP )N ABSOLUTE CONTRAST THE ORNATE INTERIOR IS A RIOT OF lNERY THAT REACHES A PEAK IN THE PARTICULARLY SHOWY lRST mOOR -ARBLE (ALL ALL 3IENESE MARBLE COLUMNS AND STATUES OF 7ELSH HEROES !MONGST THE lGURES ARE TWELFTH CENTURY CHRONICLER 'IRALDUS #AMBRENSIS THIRTEENTH CENTURY NATIVE PRINCE OF 7ALES ,LYWELYN AP 'RUFFYDD lFTEENTH CENTURY NATIONAL INSUR GENT AND PERPETUAL HERO /WAIN 'LYND"R 7ELSH KING (ENRY 4UDOR AND TENTH CENTURY ARCHITECT OF 7ALES PROGRESSIVE CODIlED LAWS (YWEL $DA (OWELL THE 'OOD /VERSEEING THEM ALL IS THE lGURE OF $EWI 3ANT HIMSELF n THE NATIONAL PATRON SAINT 3T $AVID !LSO IN THE (ALL IS A SYRUPY TRIPLE PORTRAIT OF THE LATE $IANA 0RINCESS OF 7ALES AND THERE ARE NUMEROUS OTHER WORKS OF ART THROUGHOUT THE BUILDING 4HE LOW KEY ,AW #OURTS STAND TO THE LEFT OF THE #ITY (ALL WITH THE .ATIONAL -USEUM AND 'ALLERY SEE BELOW BALANCING THE VIEW ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE "EHIND THEM TWO RULER STRAIGHT BOULEVARDS EVIDENTLY DESIGNED WITH CEREMONIAL SPLENDOUR IN MIND RUN THROUGH THE REST OF THE CIVIC CENTRE ARRANGED IN SYMMETRICAL PRECISION AROUND !LEXANDRA 'ARDENS IN THE MIDDLE !T THE VERY CENTRE OF THE PARK IS THE COLONNADED CIRCULAR .ATIONAL 7AR -EMORIAL A POPULAR AND SURPRISINGLY QUIET PLACE TO SIT AND CONTEMPLATE THE RUSH OF CIVIC AND GOVERNMENTAL DUTY ALL AROUND !T THE NORTH END OF THE WESTERN BOULEVARD +ING %DWARD 6)) !VENUE IS THE 4EMPLE OF 0EACE DEDI CATED JUST BEFORE THE OUTBREAK OF 7ORLD 7AR )) TO 7ELSH MEN AND WOMEN THE WORLD OVER WHO WERE lGHTING FOR PEACE AND RELIEF OF POVERTY 4HE EASTERN ROAD -USEUM !VENUE RUNS PAST AN ASSORTMENT OF BUILDINGS BELONGING TO #ARDIFF 5NIVERSITY !T THE NORTHERN HEAD OF #ATHAYS 0ARK IS THE UGLIEST AND MOST FORBID DING BUILDING OF THEM ALL THE EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS OF THE .ATIONAL !SSEM BLY AND OTHER ASSORTED GOVERNMENTAL OFlCES /BUJPOBM.VTFVNBOE(BMMFSZ
4HE .ATIONAL -USEUM AND 'ALLERY 4UESn3UN BANK HOLIDAYS AMnPM FREE HEADSET TOUR a IS ONE OF "RITAINS lNEST (OUSED IN A MASSIVE DOMED 0ORTLAND STONE BUILDING THAT WAS CONSTRUCTED IN SECTIONS FROM THROUGH TO IT MANAGES TO CARRY OFF THE ILLUSION OF A SINGULAR GRAND PROJET !S A NATIONAL MUSEUM IT ATTEMPTS BOTH TO TELL THE STORY OF 7ALES AND REmECT THE NATIONS PLACE IN THE WIDER INTERNATIONAL SPHERE 4HE MOST OBVIOUS CROWD PLEASER STARTING ON THE GROUND mOOR IS THE EPIC %VOLUTION OF 7ALES GALLERY A NATURAL HISTORY EXHIBITION PACKED WITH HIGH TECH GIZMOS AND A STAGGERING AMOUNT OF INFORMATION )T STARTS WITH A STIRRING LARGE SCREEN VIDEO PRESENTATION $YMA 'YMRU 4HIS IS 7ALES FULL OF STUNNING AERIAL FOOTAGE TAKEN OVER MOUNTAINS WATERFALLS AND OTHER NATURAL 7ELSH WONDERS )T THEN GOES ON TO EXPLAIN THROUGH FOSSILS ROCKS AND FOOTAGE OF VOLCANOES EARTHQUAKES AND THE GALAXIES THE SLOW BEGINNINGS OF LIFE ON EARTH $INOSAURS AND THE EARLY MAMMALS GET A GOOD LOOK IN NOTABLY IN A TERRIlC 4YRANNOSAURUS REX SKULL 4HE ENVIRONMENTAL EDUCATION CONTINUES IN THE ADJACENT .ATURAL (ISTORY GALLERIES WITH A MAGNIlCENT COLLECTION OF SPARKLING CRYSTALS RE CREATIONS OF ASSORTED ENVIRONMENTS n MOUNTAIN WETLAND SEASHORE DUNES n AND SOME GREAT INTERACTIVE TECHNOLOGY AND INTERPRETIVE BOARDS )T THEN HEADS UPSTAIRS WITH A
4065)& "458"- & 4
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DISPLAY ENTITLED h-AN AND THE %NVIRONMENTv FEATURING NUMEROUS ANIMALS AND THEIR HABITATS AND CULMINATES IN THE WORLDS LARGEST LEATHERBACK TURTLE CAUGHT OFF (ARLECH IN $ISPLAYS LOOKING AT THE EFFECT OF MANKIND ON OUR CHANGING ENVIRONMENT COMPLETE THE SECTION 4HE lRST mOOR ALSO HOUSES THE EXCELLENT ARCHEOLOGY GALLERIES WHOSE TREASURES INCLUDE INTRICATE GOLD TORQUES FROM THE "RONZE !GE AND THE DAZZLING #AERGWRLE "OWL A GOLD VOTIVE CONTAINER IN THE SHAPE OF A BOAT THATS MORE THAN YEARS OLD ,EADING OFF IS AN UNUSUALLY INTERESTING COIN COLLECTION WITH SOME GOOD PANELS ON THE HISTORY OF 7ELSH AND "RITISH MINTING AND THE 4REGWYNT 4REASURE 4ROVE FOUND NEAR &ISHGUARD IN AN IMPRESSIVE CACHE OF GOLD AND SILVER COINS DATING BACK TO THE #IVIL 7AR !T THE BACK THERES AN INSPIRATIONAL COLLECTION OF STONES AND CASTS SPANNING THE EARLIEST CARVED FRAGMENTS AROUND THE lFTH CENTURY THROUGH #ELTIC AND EARLY #HRISTIAN STANDING STONES TO THE MORE ELABORATE EXAMPLES OF THE EARLY MEDIEVAL AGE 5IFBSUDPMMFDUJPOT
4HE %VOLUTION OF 7ALES AND .ATURAL (ISTORY GALLERIES OCCUPY THE ENTIRE WESTERN AND CENTRAL mANK OF THE GROUND AND lRST mOORS 4HE EASTERN SIDE OF THE BUILDING IS HOME TO THE ART GALLERIES 'ALLERIES /NE TO 4EN EXAMINE 7ALES ARTISTIC HERITAGE STARTING WITH A MARBLE ALTAR FROM THE lRST CENTURY "# AND TAKING IN WORKS FROM THE MEDIEVAL 2ENAISSANCE INCLUDING SOME STUNNING PIECES FROM THE STUDIOS OF "OTTICELLI AND %L 'RECO 4HERES A STRONG COLLECTION FROM THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY "RITISH AND )TALIAN SCHOOLS INEVITABLY RICH IN THE WORK OF 7RIGHT 'AINSBOROUGH AND 2EYNOLDS 4HIS ERA WAS PERHAPS THE HEYDAY OF 7ELSH ART AND THE THREE MAIN PROTAGONISTS n 2ICHARD 7ILSON 7ILLIAM % 0ARRY AND 4HOMAS *ONES n ARE WELL REPRESENTED 7ILSONS SKILL IN CAPTURING 7ALES UNIQUE LIGHT CAN BE SEEN TO LUSTROUS EFFECT IN HIS STUDIES OF CASTLES AT #AERNARFON $OLBADARN AND 0EMBROKE AS WELL AS MORE EMOTIONALLY INTENSE PIECES SUCH AS THE BEAUTIFUL 0ISTYLL #AIN /NE OF 7ILSONS PROTÏGÏS 7ILLIAM (ODGES ALSO MAKES AN APPEARANCE MOST NOTABLY IN HIS GENTLE EVOCATION OF ,LANTHONY 0RIORY 3CATTERED THROUGHOUT THE lRST TEN ROOMS IS AN INTRIGUING ECLECTIC RAGBAG OF "RITISH ART OF THE LAST YEARS &RANK "RANGWYNS TEEMING CANVASES A TYPICALLY RICH AND DETAILED COLLECTION OF 0RE 2APHAELITES AND AN ASTONISHINGLY GAUDY GOLD SILVER AND ENAMEL TABLE CENTREPIECE GIVEN BY THE PEOPLE OF 7ALES TO THE $UKE AND $UCHESS OF 9ORK LATER +ING 'EORGE 6 AND 1UEEN -ARY FOR THEIR WEDDING IN 7ELSH PAINTERS ARE WELL HIGHLIGHTED YOULL lND COOL BLANCHED PORTRAITS BY 'WEN *OHN AND HER BROTHER !UGUSTUS MEASURED INTENSELY POETIC DEPICTIONS OF $YLAN 4HOMAS AND .EWPORT hSUPERTRAMPv 7( $AVIES 4HERES ALSO A SUPERB AND GROWING COLLECTION OF CERAMICS ONE OF 7ALES MOST PROLIlC AREAS OF APPLIED ART "UT THE MOST EXCITING ARTWORKS ARE CONTAINED IN 'ALLERIES %LEVEN THROUGH &IFTEEN KICKING OFF WITH A FABULOUS SCULPTURE COLLECTION INCLUDING MANY BY THE CELEBRATED ONE MAN 7ELSH 6ICTORIAN STATUE INDUSTRY 'OSCOMBE *OHN &AR BETTER HERE THAN ON THE DREARY MUNICIPAL PLINTHS THEY USUALLY ADORN HIS MALE STUDIES VERGE ON THE HOMOEROTIC AND HIS FEMALE FORMS ARE EXQUISITE -ESMERIZING PIECES BY 2ODIN PEPPER THE BUILDING PARTICULARLY IN 'ALLERY 4WELVE WHERE A COPY OF 4HE +ISS AND HIS ORIGINAL %VE SHARE SPACE WITH THE WATERY LANDSCAPES OF "OUDIN 2ENOIRS COQUETTISH 4HE 0ARISIENNE AND NUMER OUS WORKS BY -ANET INCLUDING THE INTRICATELY OBSERVED %FFECT OF 3NOW AT 0ETIT -ONTROUGE 'ALLERY 4HIRTEEN HOUSES WHAT IS ARGUABLY THE MUSEUMS STRONGEST SUIT ITS COLLECTION OF )MPRESSIONISTS THE BEQUEST OF TWO LOCAL WEALTHY SISTERS -ARGA RET AND 'WENDOLINE $AVIES 4HE SISTERS FAVOURITE WAS #ÏZANNE WHOSE WORK
!LTHOUGH YOU CAN GET THERE BY WATERBUS EVERY HOUR FROM "UTE 0ARK AND 4AFF S -EAD %MBANKMENT TRAIN EVERY MIN FROM 1UEEN 3TREET STATION OR BUS OR FROM OUTSIDE #ENTRAL STATION #ARDIFF "AY IS JUST A HALF HOUR STROLL FROM THE CITY CENTRE WITH A CHOICE OF ROUTES "OTH START FROM THE HUGE NEW
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GYRATORY SYSTEM #ALLAGHAN 3QUARE JUST SOUTHEAST OF #ENTRAL STATION ENDEAR INGLY TATTY "UTE 3TREET THE ORIGINAL LINK AND ACROSS THE RAILWAY TRACKS THE NEW hCEREMONIAL BOULEVARDv ,LOYD 'EORGE !VENUE A SADLY CHARACTERLESS FAST ROAD THAT PASSES AN ASSORTMENT OF BLAND APARTMENT BLOCKS EN ROUTE TO THE "AY )N YEARS GONE BY WHEN THE DOCKS WERE SOME OF THE BUSIEST IN THE WORLD THE AREA WAS BETTER KNOWN BY ITS EVOCATIVE NAME OF 4IGER "AY ONE THAT WAS IMMOR TALIZED BY LOCALLY BORN CHANTEUSE 3HIRLEY "ASSEY 4HE "AY AREA IS COMPRISED OF THREE DISTINCT PARTS n THE SWANKY CIVIC PRECINCTS AROUND THE GLORIOUS NEW 7ALES -ILLENNIUM #ENTRE ON THE EASTERN SIDE OF THE WATER THE ALL NEW SHINY -ILLEN NIUM 7ATERFRONT TO THE WEST INCLUDING THE RETAIL AND LEISURE COMPLEX KNOWN AS -ERMAID 1UAY AND SET BACK FROM THE WATERS EDGE THE OLD MULTIRACIAL 4AFF SIDE SUBURB OF "UTETOWN NOW MUCH SCRUBBED UP .EW ROADS AND ROUNDABOUTS HAVE BEEN CUT THROUGH RUSTED WASTELAND RIOTOUS 6ICTORIAN AND %DWARDIAN FRONTAGES HAVE BEEN SWABBED CLEAN AND SOULLESS NEW BUILDINGS n WITH A CLUTCH OF HONOUR ABLY SPIRITED EXCEPTIONS n ARE SPREADING FAST #ARDIFF "AY HAS BECOME ONE OF THE WORLDS BIGGEST REGENERATION PROJECTS AIMING TO TRANSFORM THE DOWNBEAT DERELIC TION OF THE OLD DOCKS INTO A DESIGNER HEAVEN )T WORKS WELL IN PLACES ALTHOUGH CAN STRUGGLE AT TIMES TO MAINTAIN A LIFE BEYOND THE SHIFTS OF THE OFlCE WORKERS WHO ARE THE MAIN USERS OF ITS BARS AND RESTAURANTS $ESERVEDLY A MUST SEE PART OF ANY #ARDIFF TOUR ITS TO BE HOPED THAT THE "AY WILL FULlL ITS POTENTIAL 5IF8BMFT.JMMFOOJVN$FOUSFBOETVSSPVOEJOHT
&ROM #ARDIFF "AY STATION TURN LEFT AND HEAD DOWN TOWARDS THE VAST OPEN SPACE KNOWN AS 2OALD $AHLS 0LASS NAMED AFTER THE #ARDIFF BORN CHILDRENS AUTHOR MOST FAMOUS FOR #HARLIE AND THE #HOCOLATE &ACTORY $OMINATING THE SQUARE IS THE MESMERIZING NEW 7ALES -ILLENNIUM #ENTRE WWW WMCORGUK A VIBRANT PERFORMANCE SPACE FOR THEATRE AND MUSIC AND THE
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RESIDENT HOME TO MANY OF 7ALES PREMIER ARTS ORGANIZATIONS ,IKENED BY CRIT ICS TO A COPPER PLATED ARMADILLO OR A GREAT SNAIL THE 7-# SOARS OVER THE "AY ROOFTOPS WITH GRACE AND STYLE ITS EXTERIOR SWATHED IN NUMEROUS 7ELSH BUILDING MATERIALS INCLUDING DIFFERENT SLATES WOOD AND STONE TOPPED WITH A STAINLESS STEEL SHELL TINTED WITH A BRONZE OXIDE TO RESIST SALTY AIR 0AUSE BEFORE ENTERING TO MULL OVER THE INSPIRATIONAL BILINGUAL INSCRIPTION WRIT LARGE ACROSS THE FRONT AGE IN SEVEN FOOT HIGH LETTER WINDOWS #RAFTED BY POET 'WYNETH ,EWIS THE PHRASES READ DOWNWARDS n IN %NGLISH h)N THESE STONES HORIZONS SINGv AND IN 7ELSH h#REU GWIR FEL GWYDR O FFWRNAIS AWENv h#REATING TRUTH LIKE GLASS FROM THE FURNACE OF INSPIRATIONv n BUT INGENIOUSLY THEY ALSO READ ACROSS EACH LINE IN TWO LANGUAGES AND STILL MAKE CRYSTAL CLEAR POETRY 4HE GLORIES CONTINUE THROUGHOUT THE INTERIOR FASHIONED FROM MATERIALS THAT HARK BACK TO 7ALES MINERAL EXTRACTING PAST FROM THE NATIVE OAK ASH BEECH SYCAMORE ALDER BIRCH CHESTNUT AND CHERRY WOODS TO THE RIVETED STEEL AND COAL LIKE PILLARS )T ALL MAKES FOR A SUPREMELY TACTILE VISIT 4HE GROUND mOOR HOUSES THE MAIN BOX OFlCE A DEFTLY INTERACTIVE EXHIBITION ABOUT THE CENTRE PLUS MUSIC SHOP SOUVENIR SHOP BAR AND BRASSERIE 5PSTAIRS THERES A CHAMPAGNE BAR AND ENTRANCES INTO THE MAIN AUDITORIUM THE ACOUSTI CALLY SENSATIONAL $ONALD 'ORDON 4HEATRE 4HE BEST WAY TO SEE ALL THIS AND OTHER PARTS OF THE BUILDING THAT YOU WONT SEE OTHERWISE IS TO TAKE A GUIDED TOUR AM PM ADVISABLE TO PRE BOOK ON a $AILY FREE PERFORMANCES OF ANYTHING FROM POETRY TO HIP HOP TAKE PLACE IN THE 7-# FOYER USUALLY AT LUNCHTIME AND PM !T THE FAR END OF THE SQUARE DOWN BY THE WATERS EDGE IS THE MAGNIlCENT RED BRICK 0IERHEAD "UILDING WHICH HAS BECKONED SHIPS INTO #ARDIFF PORT SINCE ITS CONSTRUCTION IN ! TYPICALLY ORNATE NEO 'OTHIC TERRACOTTA PILE IT WAS BUILT FOR THE "UTE $OCK #OMPANY AND PERFECTLY EMBODIES THE WEALTH AND OPTIMISM OF THE "UTE FAMILY AND THEIR DOCKS )T CURRENTLY HOUSES A SURPRISINGLY ENJOYABLE EXHIBITION -ONn4HURS AMnPM &RI AMnPM FREE ABOUT THE WORKINGS OF THE .ATIONAL !SSEMBLY FOR 7ALES INAUGURATED IN !S THIS BOOK WENT TO PRESS THE NEW !SSEMBLY DEBATING CHAMBER HAD BEEN COMPLETED n ON TIME AND MORE OR LESS WITHIN BUDGET n AND WAS DUE TO OPEN ON 3T $AVIDS $AY $ESIGNED BY THE 2ICHARD 2OGERS 0ARTNERSHIP ITS A WELCOME ADDITION TO THE "AY LANDSCAPE (ARBOUR $RIVE LEADS DOWN FROM THE !SSEMBLY BUILDING TOWARDS THE STARTLING #ARDIFF "AY 6ISITOR #ENTRE (ARBOUR $RIVE !PRIL 3EPT -ONn&RI AMn PM 3AT 3UN AMnPM REST OF YEAR CLOSES PM A GIANT TUBULAR EYE PEERING OUT OVER THE BAY !LTHOUGH ITS A THINLY DISGUISED 02 JOB FOR THE DEVELOPMENT THERE ARE LOTS OF GOOD EXHIBITS AND PLENTY OF INFORMA TION TO PICK UP )N FRONT OF THE 6ISITOR #ENTRE IS THE GLEAMING WHITE STUMPY SPIRED .ORWE GIAN CHURCH DAILY AMnPM FOR EVENTS AN OLD SEAMENS CHAPEL IN WHICH 2OALD $AHL WAS CHRISTENED THAT HAS NOW BEEN CONVERTED INTO A NICE CAFÏ SEE P AND PERFORMANCE AND EXHIBITION SPACE #ENTRAL TO THE WHOLE "AY PROJECT IS THE KILOMETRE LONG #ARDIFF "AY "ARRAGE DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM FREE BUILT RIGHT ACROSS THE %LY AND 4AFF ESTUARIES TRANSFORMING A VAST MUD mAT INTO A FRESHWATER LAKE AND CREATING EIGHT MILES OF USEFUL WATERFRONT $ESPITE ITS CONTROVERSIES THE BARRAGE IS A PHENOMENAL BIT OF ENGINEERING AND ITS WELL WORTH HAVING A WANDER ALONG THE EMBANKMENT TO SEE THE LOCK GATES SLUICES lSH PATH AND STUN NING VIEWS )F MOBILITY IS A PROBLEM OR YOURE WITH KIDS TAKE THE DAFT LITTLE ROAD TRAIN AMnPM a ACROSS THE BARRAGE LEAVING HOURLY FROM 3TUART 3TREET NEAR 4ECHNIQUEST SEE BELOW OR JOIN ONE OF THE TOURS DETAILED ON P
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#ONTINUING WEST ALONG THE WATERFRONT FROM THE 0IERHEAD BRINGS YOU STRAIGHT INTO -ERMAID 1UAY AN AIRY JUMBLE OF SHOPS BARS AND RESTAURANTS THAT ON A WARM DAY IS A lNE PLACE TO HANG OUT AND WATCH THE WORLD AMBLE BY 4HE CITYS WATERBUSES SEE P LEAVE FROM HERE AND INFORMATION BOARDS CARRY DETAILS OF A VARIETY OF BOAT RENTAL OPPORTUNITIES TO GET YOU OUT ONTO THE WATER &URTHER WEST AROUND THE WATERFRONT THE METAL AND GLASS CROWNED 4ECHNIQUEST ON 3TUART 3TREET -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM a IS ONE OF THE LARGEST AND MOST IMPRESSIVE hHANDS ONv SCIENCE MUSEUMS IN THE 5+ PACKED FULL OF EXHIBITS EXPERIMENTS AND NUMEROUS CHANCES TO PLAY LIKE A lVE YEAR OLD )T ALSO INCLUDES A PLANETARIUM a AND SCIENCE THEATRE *UTTING PROUDLY OVER THE WATER LIKE AN OCEAN GOING LINER THE lVE STAR 3T $AVIDS (OTEL SEE P ACTS AS A STYLISH FULL STOP TO THE SWEEP OF THE BAY &ROM ITS CAR PARK A PATH LEADS A COUPLE OF HUNDRED YARDS TO AN EIGHT HECTARE WETLAND RESERVE CREATED PARTLY TO HELP OFFSET THE LOSS OF WADING BIRD HABITATS WHEN THE BARRAGE WAS BUILT AND THE "AY mOODED )TS A SURREALLY PEACEFUL SPOT IN WHICH TO GATHER YOUR BREATH OR HAVE A PICNIC #VUFUPXO
4HE AREA IMMEDIATELY INLAND FROM THE "AY IS THE SALTY OLD DISTRICT OF "UTETOWN WHOSE INNER CITY DERELICTION STILL PEEPS THROUGH THE RAMPANT GENTRIlCATION THAT HAS TAKEN PLACE HERE OVER THE PAST TWO DECADES *AMES 3TREET BEHIND 4ECHNIQUEST IS THE MAIN COMMERCIAL FOCUS WHILE TO ITS NORTH ARE THE CLEANED UP OLD BUILDINGS AROUND -OUNT 3TUART 3QUARE -ANY OF THESE ARE TRENDY OFlCES AND BARS NOW BUT THE MOST IMPRESSIVE IS THE MAMMOTH #OAL %XCHANGE "UILDING WWWCOALEXCHANGECOUK BUILT IN THE S AS "RITAINS CENTRAL #OAL %XCHANGE THE BUILDING SAW THE WORLDS lRST a MILLION CHEQUE SIGNED IN AND IS NOW USED FOR CONFERENCES EXHIBITIONS AND CONCERTS #LOSE BY ON THE CORNER OF 7EST "UTE 3TREET THE OLD CHURCH OF 3T 3TEPHEN HAS BEEN CONVERTED INTO 4HE 0OINT A SUPERB VENUE FOR MUSIC AND OCCASIONALLY DRAMA SEE P ! BLOCK FURTHER EAST IS "UTE 3TREET WHERE THE COMMUNITY BASED "UTE TOWN (ISTORY !RTS #ENTRE AT $OCK #HAMBERS OPENING TIMES VARY WWWBHACORG AIMS TO RECORD AND CELEBRATE THE REMARK ABLE MULTICULTURAL PEDIGREE OF A DISTRICT THAT IS HOME FOR EXAMPLE TO ONE OF THE OLDEST BLACK COMMUNITIES IN "RITAIN TO THAT END THE CENTRE MOUNTS EXHIBITIONS OFFERS GUIDED TOURS AND MAINTAINS A GROWING ARCHIVE ! FEW PACES UP THE STREET AT NO B THE COOL CONTEMPORARY "AY !RT GALLERY 4UESn3AT AM PM FREE HAS A VARIED PROGRAMME OF EXHIBITIONS %VEN MORE IMPRESSIVE IS #RAFT IN THE "AY DAILY AMnPM FREE AN OLD MARITIME WAREHOUSE NOW MAROONED RATHER STYLISHLY IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NEW ,LOYD 'EORGE !VENUE ONE BLOCK FURTHER EAST #RAFT PRACTITIONERS FROM ALL OVER 7ALES EXHIBIT HERE AND THERES A CUTE CAFÏ IN WHICH TO MULL OVER THE TALENT !CROSS THE WAY THE SWEEPING ROOmINE AND GLASS BRICK CURTAIN WALL OF THE 2ED $RAGON #ENTRE FORMERLY !TLANTIC 7HARF MAKE A STRIKING FRONT FOR WHAT IS ESSENTIALLY A BIG BOX lLLED WITH A TWELVE SCREEN MULTIPLEX BOWLING ALLEY BARS AND RESTAURANTS &ROM HERE ITS JUST A SHORT HOP ACROSS THE ROAD BACK TO #ARDIFF "AY TRAIN STATION 'SPN#VUF1BSLUP-MBOEBGG
"ETWEEN #ARDIFF #ASTLE AND THE 2IVER 4AFF LIES "UTE 0ARK ONCE THE PRIVATE ESTATE OF THE CASTLE AND NOW CONTAINING AN ARBORETUM SUPERB mOWERBEDS A GORSEDD STONE CIRCLE THE FOUNDATION REMAINS OF AN OLD PRIORY AND SOME PLEAS ANT WALKS ALONG THE 4AFF BANKS 4HE MAIN ROAD CROSSES OVER THE RIVER AT #ARDIFF "RIDGE WITH A RIGHT TURN LEADING UP INTO THE COOLLY FORMAL 3OPHIA 'ARDENS !
4065)& "458"- & 4
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QUARTER OF A MILE ALONG THE RIVER IS THE MULTIPURPOSE 7ELSH )NSTITUTE OF 3PORT THE NATIONAL SPORTS CENTRE "EYOND THIS IS THE HOME OF 7ALES SOLE lRST CLASS CRICKET TEAM 'LAMORGAN AND THE LESS FORMAL OPEN SPACES OF 0ONTCANNA &IELDS WHICH LEAD ALONG THE 4AFF FOR A COUPLE OF MILES TO THE SUBURB OF ,LANDAFF ! SMALL QUIET ECCLESIASTICAL VILLAGE ,LANDAFF IS TWO MILES NORTHWEST OF THE CITY CENTRE ALONG #ATHEDRAL 2OAD 4HE CHURCH THAT HAS NOW GROWN UP INTO THE CITYS CATHEDRAL IS BELIEVED TO HAVE BEEN FOUNDED IN THE SIXTH CENTURY BY 3T 4EILO BUT WAS REBUILT IN .ORMAN STYLE FROM AND WELL INTO THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY &ROM THE LATE FOURTEENTH CENTURY THE CATHEDRAL FELL INTO AN ADVANCED STATE OF DISREPAIR HURRIED ALONG BY THE ADVERSE ATTENTION OF #ROMWELLS SOLDIERS DURING THE #IVIL 7AR )N THE EARLY EIGHTEENTH CENTURY ONE OF THE TWIN TOWERS AND THE NAVE ROOF COLLAPSED 2ESTORATION ONLY BEGAN IN EARNEST IN THE EARLY S AND 0RE 2APHAELITE ARTISTS SUCH AS %DWARD "URNE *ONES $ANTE 'ABRIEL 2OSSETTI AND THE STAINED GLASS lRM OF 7ILLIAM -ORRIS WERE COMMISSIONED FOR COLOURFUL NEW WINDOWS AND DECORATIVE PANELS ,LANDAFF IS EVIDENTLY NOT A LUCKY CATHEDRAL HOWEVER FOR IN *ANUARY A 'ERMAN LANDMINE DESTROYED WHOLE SECTIONS OF IT &AITHFUL AND PAINSTAKING RESTORATION WAS lNALLY COMPLETED IN 4HE FUSION OF DIFFERENT STYLES AND AGES IS EVIDENT FROM OUTSIDE ESPECIALLY IN THE MISMATCHED WESTERN TOWERS 4HE NORTHWEST TOWER IS BY *ASPER 4UDOR A LARGELY lFTEENTH CENTURY WORK WITH MODERN EMBELLISHMENTS WHILST THE ADJOINING TOWER AND SPIRE WERE REBUILT FROM NINETEENTH CENTURY DESIGNS )NSIDE *ACOB %PSTEINS OVERWHELMING #HRIST IN -AJESTY SCULPTURE A CONCRETE PARABOLA TOPPED WITH A CIRCULAR ORGAN CASE ON WHICH SITS A SOARING #HRIST lGURE WAS THE ONLY ENTIRELY NEW FEATURE ADDED IN THE POSTWAR RECONSTRUCTION AND DOMINATES THE NAVE TODAY !T THE WEST END OF THE NORTH AISLE THE 3T )LLTYD #HAPEL FEATURES 2OSSETTIS CLOYING TRIPTYCH 4HE 3EED OF $AVID WHOSE lGURES n $AVID THE SHEPHERD BOY $AVID THE +ING AND THE 6IRGIN -ARY n ARE MODELLED ON 2OSSETTIS 0RE 2APHAELITE FRIENDS !LONG A LITTLE FURTHER IN THE SOUTH PRESBYTERY IS THE TENTH CENTURY #ELTIC CROSS THAT IS THE CATHEDRALS ONLY PRE .ORMAN SURVIVOR !T THE FAR END OF THE CATHEDRAL IS THE ELEGANTLY VAULTED AND BEAUTIFULLY PAINTED ,ADY #HAPEL NOTABLE FOR ITS GAUDY lFTEENTH CENTURY REREDOS ON THE BACK WALL THAT CONTAINS SURROUNDED BY GOLDEN TWIGS AND BLACKTHORN IN EACH NICHE BRONZE PANELS WITH NAMED mOWERS IN 7ELSH IN HONOUR OF /UR ,ADY /VER TWO DOZEN mOWERS TAKE THEIR 7ELSH NAMES FROM THE 6IRGIN -ARY 7HILE YOURE HERE ITS WORTH HAVING A QUICK LOOK AT THE MEDIEVAL WALLED GARDEN OPEN ACCESS FREE OF THE ,LANDAFF "ISHOPS 0ALACE ON THE #ATHEDRAL 'REEN 7ITH HERBACEOUS PLANTS PLANTED ACCORDING TO MEDIEVAL PATTERNS IT MAKES A PLEASANT n AND FRAGRANT n PLACE TO SIT FOR A FEW MINUTES
&BUJOH 4HE CITYS LONG STANDING INTERNATIONALISM PARTICULARLY ITS )TALIAN INmUENCE HAS PAID HANDSOME DIVIDENDS IN ITS RANGE OF RESTAURANTS -OST PLACES ARE WITHIN EASY WALKING DISTANCE OF THE CITY CENTRE WITH A PARTICULAR CONCENTRATION IN THE h#AFÏ 1UARTERv AROUND -ILL ,ANE 4HERE ARE ALSO GOOD OPTIONS IN THE CHEAPER CORNERS OF #ATHAYS AND 2OATH PARTICULARLY THE CURRY HOUSES ALONG #RWYS !LBANY AND #ITY ROADS A STONES THROW FROM THE CENTRE BEYOND THE UNIVERSITY 3OME OF THE ACTION HAS NOW MOVED A MILE WEST TO SUBURBAN #ANTON AND TO #ARDIFF "AY THE LATTER SEEING MORE AND MORE SHOWPIECE BARS AND RESTAURANTS OPENING ALL THE TIME .OTE THAT WEVE ONLY LISTED TELEPHONE NUMBERS FOR PLACES WHERE A RESERVATION IS RECOM MENDED /UT OF THE CITY DONT MISS THE FABULOUS /LD 0OST /FlCE AT 3T &AGANS SEE P &OR BARGAIN PRICED TAKEAWAYS IN THE CITY CENTRE YOUR BEST BET IS #AROLINE 3TREET BETWEEN 3T -ARY 3TREET AND THE BOTTOM OF 4HE (AYES
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%SJOLJOH #ARDIFF S PUB LIFE HAS EXPANDED EXPONENTIALLY IN RECENT YEARS WITH CHIC COSMO POLITAN BARS JOSTLING FOR SPACE ALONGSIDE THE MORE TRADITIONAL %DWARDIAN PALACES OF ETCHED SMOKY GLASS AND DEEP RED WOOD 7EEKEND NIGHTS ARE LEGENDARILY RAUCOUS IN #ARDIFF AND THE CITY CENTRE IS NOT FOR THE FAINT HEARTED THEN $ONT FORGET #ARDIFF S OWN BEER "RAINS WHOSE "ITTER IS PALE AND REFRESHING AND WHOSE $ARK IS A DEEP MILD THAT SHOULD NOT BE MISSED ON A VISIT TO ITS HOME CITY &OR GAY BARS SEE LATER SECTION
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3EPARATED FROM #ARDIFF BY ONLY A SLIVER OF GREENERY THE VILLAGE OF 34 &!'!.3 3AIN &FAGAN FOUR MILES WEST OF THE CITY CENTRE HAS A RURAL AMBIENCE ONLY PARTLY MARRED BY THE BUSLOADS OF TOURISTS THAT REGULARLY ROLL IN TO VISIT THE UNMISSABLE 3T &AGANS .ATIONAL (ISTORY -USEUM DAILY AMnPM FREE ! BRANCH OF THE EXCELLENT .ATIONAL -USEUM AND 'ALLERY ITS CONSTRUCTED AROUND 3T &AGANS #ASTLE A COUNTRY HOUSE BUILT IN ON THE SITE OF A RUINED .ORMAN CASTLE AND FURNISHED IN EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY STYLE COMPLETE WITH HEAVY OAK FURNITURE AND GLOOMY PORTRAITS 4HE MANSIONS FORMAL GARDENS AND EIGHTEENTH CENTURY lSHPONDS HAVE ALSO BEEN RESTORED TO SOMETHING AKIN TO THEIR ORIGINAL DESIGN ! COLLECTION OF PERIOD BUILDINGS FROM ALL CORNERS OF 7ALES HAVE BEEN CAREFULLY DISMANTLED AND REBUILT ON THIS SITE SINCE THE MUSEUMS INCEPTION IN 4HE MOST IMPRESSIVE ELEMENT IS THE lFTY ACRE OUTDOOR COLLECTION PARTICULARLY THE DIMINUTIVE WHITEWASHED 0EN 2HIW #HAPEL FROM $YFED THE PRISTINE AND EVOCATIVE 6ICTORIAN 3T -ARYS "OARD 3CHOOL FROM ,AMPETER AND THE ORDERED MINI FORTRESS OF A 4OLLHOUSE THAT ONCE GUARDED THE SOUTHERN APPROACH TO !BERYSTWYTH -ANY OF THE DOMESTIC STRUCTURES ARE FARMHOUSES OF DIFFERENT AGES AND STYLES n COMPARE FOR EXAMPLE THE GRANDEUR OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY RED PAINTED +ENNIXTON &ARMHOUSE FROM 'OWER OR THE HOMELY %DWARDIAN COMFORTS OF ,LWYN YR %OS &ARM WITH THE THREADBARE SIMPLICITY OF THE 'WYN EDD FARMWORKERS ,LAINFADYN #OTTAGE 4HE BEST DEMONSTRATION OF HOW LIFE CHANGED OVER THE YEARS FOR A SECTION OF THE 7ELSH POPULATION COMES IN THE SUPERLATIVE 2HYD Y CAR IRONWORKERS COTTAGES FROM -ERTHYR 4YDlL "UILT ORIGINALLY AROUND EACH OF THE SIX HOUSES WITH THEIR ACCOMPANYING STRIP OF GARDEN HAS BEEN FURNISHED IN THE STYLE OF A DIFFER ENT ERA n STRETCHING FROM TO %VEN THE FRONTAGES AND ROOFS ARE TRUE TO THEIR AGE OFFERING A WADE THROUGH WORKING CLASS 7ELSH LIFE OVER THE PAST TWO CENTURIES .EXT DOOR ARE THE 6ICTORIAN 'WALIA 3TORES FROM THE MINING COMMU NITY OF /GMORE 6ALE WHOSE SMELL OF POLISHED MAHOGANY IS AS EVOCATIVE AS THE STARCHY APRONED ASSISTANTS AND THE JARS OF BOILED SWEETS THAT THEY SELL ! LARGE AND INTERESTING VARIETY OF WORKPLACES INCLUDING A STINKING TANNERY A POTTERY THREE MILLS A BAKEHOUSE AND A SMITHY MOST OF WHICH HOUSE PEOPLE DEMONSTRATING THE ORIGINAL METHODS MAKE UP A LARGE NUMBER OF THE REMAINING BUILDINGS )N 3T &AGANS VILLAGE YOULL ALSO lND A WONDERFUL RESTAURANT AND SMALL HOTEL 4HE /LD 0OST /FlCE ON 'REENWOOD ,ANE WWW OLD POST OFlCECOM HAS BEEN REMODELLED INTO A MINIMALIST HOTEL BOASTING TOP QUALITY BEAUTIFULLY DECORATED ROOMS AND AN AIRY CONSERVATORY RESTAURANT OPEN LUNCH 4HURSn3UN EVENINGS 7EDn3AT SERVING CLASSY SUITABLY EXPENSIVE MODERN %UROPEAN CUISINE 4HERES A THREE COURSE EVENING MENU FOR a AND THE HOTEL RATES INCLUDE BREAKFAST 4HERES AN HOURLY BUS FROM #ARDIFF #ENTRAL STATION TO THE VILLAGE
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0ENARTH IS THE END OF THE TRAIN LINE FROM #ARDIFF RECEIVING HALF HOURLY SHUTTLE TRAINS THAT PLY THEIR WAY FROM HERE THROUGH THE CAPITAL AND OUT INTO THE VALLEYS &ROM THE TRAIN STATION A PATH ON THE RIGHT LEADS UP TO 3TANWELL 2OAD WHICH CONTINUES INTO THE CLEAN CUT %DWARDIAN SHOPPING STREETS OF THE TOWN CENTRE /PPOSITE THE STATION THE RED BRICK 4URNER (OUSE !RT 'ALLERY 4UES 3UN AM PM FREE IS ON THE 0LYMOUTH 2OAD AND HOUSES SOME TOP NOTCH EXHIBITIONS PARTICULARLY IN PHOTOGRAPHY 4HE $INGLE PATH RUNS DOWN THE LEFT HAND SIDE OF THE 4URNER (OUSE LEADING INTO THE SHOWY !LEXANDRA 0ARK THE SPIRIT OF 0ENARTH WITH ITS OCEANS OF mOW ERBEDS BANDSTAND AND BENCHES FULL OF PENSIONERS 4HIS PICTURE ONLY INTENSIlES ON CONTINUING DOWN THE HILL ONTO THE CHARMINGLY FUSTY %SPLANADE WITH THE AMUSEMENT ARCADE IN THE GREEN BUBBLE OF A HALL ON THE PIER WHICH ALSO HOUSES THE SEASONAL TOURIST OFlCE AND A FEW lSH AND CHIP STANDS 4HE OVERALL EFFECT IS SEDATELY PLEASING )T SEEMS THOROUGHLY IN KEEPING WITH THE SPIRIT OF 0ENARTH THAT YOU CAN SPEND THE DAY CRUISING THE LOCAL COASTLINE ABOARD THE 7AVERLEY A GENUINE SEAGOING PADDLE STEAMER THAT MAKES REGULAR VISITS TO 0ENARTH 0IER THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER THOUGH ITS SOMETIMES REPLACED BY THE MORE CONVENTIONALLY PROPELLED BUT NO LESS GRACIOUS "ALMORAL ! SCHEDULE IS PUBLISHED WELL IN ADVANCE COVERING DAY TRIPS RANGING FROM CRUISES AROUND &LAT (OLM TO LONGER JOURNEYS UP THE
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]5IF7BMFPG(MBNPSHBO
4WO MILES DUE SOUTH OF 0ENARTH IS ,AVERNOCK 0OINT JUTTING OUT INTO THE "RIS TOL #HANNEL A FORLORN SETTING FOR CAMPSITES AND PUBS BUT NOTABLE AS THE PLACE IN WHICH CONVERSATION WAS lRST HEARD BY MEANS OF RADIO WAVES 4HIS n AS A PLAQUE ON THE WALL OF THE DISMAL 6ICTORIAN CHAPEL NOTES n TOOK PLACE ON -AY WHEN 'UGLIELMO -ARCONI SENT THE IMMORTAL WORDS h!RE YOU READY v OVER TO HIS ASSISTANT 'EORGE +EMP ON THE ISLAND OF &LAT (OLM 9NYS %CHNI THREE MILES OUT IN THE "RISTOL #HANNEL AND OFlCIALLY 7ALES MOST SOUTHERLY POINT /VER THE YEARS &LAT (OLM HAS BEEN USED AS A 6IKING ANCHORAGE A CHOLERA HOSPITAL AND A LOOKOUT POINT 4ODAY ITS AN INTERESTING AND BEAUTIFULLY REMOTE NATURE RESERVE THE NESTING PLACE OF THOUSANDS OF GULLS AND SHELDUCKS "OATS OPERATED BY THE &LAT (OLM 0ROJECT 0IER (EAD "ARRY $OCKS WWWCARDIFFGOVUKmATHOLM a SAIL WEEKENDS IN SUMMER FROM "ARRY (ARBOUR AND SHOULD BE BOOKED WELL IN ADVANCE -OST ARE DAY TRIPS GIVING THREE HOURS ON THE ISLAND INCLUDING A HISTORY mORA AND FAUNA TOUR THOUGH ITS OCCA SIONALLY POSSIBLE TO STAY OVERNIGHT IN A FARMHOUSE HOSTEL ON THE ISLAND ,AVERNOCK 0OINT IS A lFTEEN MINUTE WALK FROM THE BUS STOP ON THE " (ALF HOURLY BUS OPERATES FROM #ARDIFF AND 0ENARTH DROPPING JUST NEAR THE MILDLY DIVERTING #OSMESTON -EDIEVAL 6ILLAGE DAILY -AYn3EPT AMnPM /CTn!PRIL AMnPM a WHICH IF YOU CAN CATCH IT WHEN IT ISNT TOO BUSY MAKES FOR AN AGREEABLE HALF HOUR 1SBDUJDBMJUJFT
0ENARTHS TOURIST OFlCE KIOSK %ASTERn3EPT DAILY AMnPM PENARTHTIC VALEOFGLAMORGANGOVUK IS AT THE HEAD OF THE PIER ON THE %SPLANADE &OR THOSE WISHING TO SEE #ARDIFF WITHOUT THE BUSTLE OF CITY LIFE STAY ING IN 0ENARTH IS AN OPTION THOUGH ACCOMMODATION HERE IS SURPRISINGLY SPARSE AND NOT TERRIBLY GOOD 4HERES THE FUNCTIONAL 4RELAWNE GUESTHOUSE AT !LBERT #RESCENT THE SMARTER (ICKMAN ,ODGE (ICKMAN 2D WWWHICKMANLODGECOUK OR ON THE %SPLANADE THE FAIRLY CHARACTERLESS 3EACOT (OTEL &OR CAMPING THERES ONLY THE DOWNBEAT ,AVERNOCK 0OINT (OLIDAY %STATE ON &ORT 2OAD a PER PITCH BUT AT LEAST THE VIEWS ARE GOOD !LONG 0ENARTH %SPLANADE ARE A NUMBER OF REASONABLE RESTAURANTS THOUGH BY FAR THE BEST FOOD IS IN TOWN AT THE /LIVE 4REE 'LEBE 3T CLOSED -ON WHICH DOES A WONDERFUL THREE COURSE TABLE DHÙTE FOR a *UST NEARBY THE NEWISH #ORNER (OUSE AT 0LASSEY 3T CLOSED 3UN -ON IS GAINING A GOOD REPUTATION FOR ITS &RENCH CUISINE &OR PUBS THERES GOOD BEER AND FOOD TO BE HAD AT THE #LIVE !RMS ON *OHN 3TREET UP TOWARDS THE "ARRAGE AND THE 7INDSOR GOING DOWN THE HILL FROM THE TOWN CENTRE ON 7INDSOR 2OAD
#BSSZBOEBSPVOE 3IX MILES SOUTHWEST OF 0ENARTH "ARRY "ARRI IS THE QUINTESSENTIAL 7ELSH RESORT OF OLD WHOSE SPECIALITY OF LOUD CHIP SWALLOWING BEER SWILLING SEASIDE FUN IS A MILLION MILES FROM THE EFFETE COASTAL CHARMS OF 0ENARTH (OWEVER ALTHOUGH THE FUNFAIR AND FUN PUBS ARE STILL HERE EVEN "ARRY IS GETTING SLIGHTLY GENTRIlED THESE DAYS AND IT CAN BE A DECENT BASE 5NTIL THE S WHEN IT WAS DEVELOPED AS A RIVAL PORT TO THE "UTE FAMILYS #ARDIFF "ARRY WAS A SMALL lSHING VILLAGE AND LINE
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UPON LINE OF NEAT GENTEEL AVENUES n MANY WITH CHEAP ""S n STILL RUN DOWN TO THE TOWNS QUIETER STONIER BEACH AT 4HE +NAP HERE YOULL lND A S OPEN AIR LIDO POOL NOW IN A TERMINAL STATE OF DISREPAIR AND IN MARKED CONTRAST WITH THE SHINY NEW HOUSING DEVELOPMENTS NEARBY -OST OF THE RESORTS ACTIVITY CENTRES ON "ARRY )SLAND 9NYS Y "ARRI A STUMP OF LAND THAT STICKS OUT FROM THE TOWN ALONG (ARBOUR 2OAD A JUMBLE OF ARCADES AND CHIP SHOPS TOGETHER WITH A CRAZY GOLF GREEN )TS ALL PINNED OUT ALONG A CHEERFULLY PRISTINE PROM WHERE KIDS CAN STILL TAKE PONY AND TRAP RIDES FOR A FEW PENNIES "ANG OPPOSITE IS THE 0LEASURE 0ARK ERRATIC BUT GENERALLY DAILY *ULY !UG nPM %ASTERn*UNE 3EPT nPM A FUN COLLECTION OF RIDES AND FAIRGROUND ATTRACTIONS %ZGGSZO(BSEFOTBOE-MBOFSDI7JOFZBSE
]5IF7BMFPG(MBNPSHBO
4HE ! HEADS NORTH FROM "ARRY PAST THE CHILD ORIENTED 7ELSH (AWK ING #ENTRE DAILY AMnPM OR DUSK a WHERE A RESIDENT POPULATION OF OVER BIRDS OF PREY CAN BE SEEN AND HELD /FF TO THE RIGHT LANES DESCEND TO THE HAMLET OF $9&&29. AND THE MAGNIlCENT $YFFRYN 'ARDENS DAILY !PRILn3EPT AMnPM /CT AM PM a .OV %ASTER AM PM FREE BUT NO FACILITIES SET AROUND THE 6ICTORIAN HOME OF A LOCAL MERCHANT 3ELDOM BUSY THE GARDENS OFFER EVERYTHING FROM FORMAL LILYPONDS AND BILLIARD TABLE SMOOTH LAWNS TO JOYOUS BURSTS OF mORAL COLOUR AND THE RUSSETS GOLDS AND GREENS OF AN ARBORETUM "Y THE LANE JUNCTION JUST SOUTH OF THE GARDENS YOULL lND THE 3T ,YTHAN ,ONG #AIRN OVER FOUR THOUSAND YEARS OLD )TS NOWHERE NEAR AS IMPRESSIVE HOWEVER AS ITS NEAR NEIGHBOUR THE 4INKINSWOOD ,ONG #AIRN A HUGE CAPSTONED BURIAL CHAMBER AROUND YEARS OLD ,EGEND HAS IT THAT ANYONE WHO SLEEPS BENEATH THE lFTY TON MONOLITH FOR A NIGHT WILL EITHER DIE GO RAVING MAD OR BECOME A POET A THREAT COMMONLY ASCRIBED TO OTHER MEGA LITHIC SITES IN 7ALES SUCH AS #ADAIR )DRIS 9OULL lND IT ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE $YFFRYN 'ARDENS ENTRANCE JUST BESIDE THE WOODED LANE BETWEEN $YFFRYN AND 3T .ICHOLAS A VILLAGE ON THE ! JUST TWO MILES FROM #ARDIFF S #ULVERHOUSE #ROSS ROUNDABOUT !MONG ROLLING HILLS FOUR MILES NORTHWEST OF 3T .ICHOLAS AND ONE MILE SOUTH OF JUNCTION OF THE - YOULL lND ,LANERCH 6INEYARD -ARCHn$EC DAILY AMnPM a 4HIS IS 7ALES MOST SUCCESSFUL WINERY PRODUCING AROUND BOTTLES OF WHITE AND ROSÏ #ARIAD WINE EACH YEAR MOST OF IT SOLD WITHIN 7ALES 4HE ENTRY FEE INCLUDES A SELF GUIDED TOUR AMONG THE VINES AND A PATCH OF ANCIENT WOODLAND AND OF COURSE A TASTE OF THE lNISHED PRODUCT !S A TIP STICK TO THE DRIER WHITES 1SBDUJDBMJUJFT
&REQUENT TRAINS FROM #ARDIFF RATTLE THROUGH "ARRY $OCKS AND "ARRY STATIONS BEFORE TERMINATING AT "ARRY )SLAND JUST STEPS FROM THE TOURIST OFlCE !PRILn 3EPT DAILY AMnPM !CCOMMODATION IN "ARRY TOWN IS PLENTIFUL ENOUGH THOUGH MOST PLACES ARE CHEAP GUESTHOUSES AWAY FROM THE WATERFRONT &IRST AMONGST EQUALS IS THE CHINTZY +NIGHTS (OTEL #OLCOT 2D THOUGH IF YOUR BUDGETS BIGGER THE EXQUISITE 6ICTORIANA OF THE %GERTON 'REY (OTEL WWWEGERTONGREYCOUK IN THE HAMLET OF 0ORTHKERRY A MILE WEST OF TOWN IS A GREAT BET "ETWEEN "ARRY AND #ARDIFF !IRPORT .EW &ARM WWWNEWFARMBARRYCOUK ON 0ORT 2OAD 7EST IS A GREAT FARMHOUSE ""
5IF7BMFDPBTU 7EST OF "ARRY THE COAST OF THE 6ALE OF 'LAMORGAN ALTERNATES BETWEEN CRAGGY CLIFFS AND WIDE WHITE SAND BEACHES #ONSIDERING ITS LOCATION BETWEEN 7ALES TWO
-MBOUXJU.BKPS
]5IF7BMFPG(MBNPSHBO
/N lRST SIGHT ,,!.47)4 -!*/2 A BIZARRE CORRUPTION OF ITS 7ELSH NAME ,LANILLTUD &AWR IS HUMDRUM WITH MODERN HOUSING ESTATES AND ROWS OF UGLY SHOPS ONLY RELUCTANTLY REVEALING THE TINY KERNEL OF WINDING STREETS AT ITS HEART 4HIS IS WHERE IN AROUND !$ THE SCHOLARLY 3T )LLTUD EDUCATED A SUCCESSION OF YOUNG MEN AT HIS MONASTERY GIVING THE TOWN THE CHANCE TO CLAIM THE TITLE OF "RITAINS EARLIEST CENTRE OF LEARNING !MONGST )LLTUDS PUPILS WERE 3T $AVID HIMSELF AND 3T 0ATRICK WHO WAS ABDUCTED FROM THE MONASTERY BY )RISH PIRATES TO BECOME THEIR PATRON SAINT "USES DROP PASSENGERS BEHIND THE MODERN SHOPPING PRECINCT FROM WHERE ITS A SHORT WALK DOWN %AST 3TREET INTO THE TOWN CENTRE 4HE NEW TRAIN STATION ON THE 6ALE LINE IS YARDS AWAY ! MINIATURE TOWN HALL SITS JUST BEFORE THE MAIN TOWN SQUARE BUILT IN THE lFTEENTH CENTURY AS THE REPLACEMENT OF ONE DESTROYED BY /WAIN 'LYND"R IT NOW SERVES AS AN INFORMAL VISITOR CENTRE &ROM HERE "URIAL ,ANE WINDS ITS WAY PAST THE VILLAGE SQUARE AND DOWN TO THE FRONT OF THE MAGNIlCENT PARISH CHURCH SHELTERING IN A HOLLOW NEXT TO THE TRICKLE OF THE #OL (UW 2IVER 4HE lRST THING THAT STRIKES YOU ABOUT THE CHURCH IS ITS SIZE IT IS IN FACT TWO CHURCHES JOINED AT THE TOWER 4HE OLDER WEST CHURCH NEARER THE STREAM DATES FROM AROUND AISLES WERE ADDED IN THE TWELFTH AND THIRTEENTH CENTURIES TO TRANSFORM IT INTO THE NAVE OF A NEW CHURCH 4HE WEST CHURCH IS NOTABLE FOR THE COLLECTION OF DECORATIVE #ELTIC CROSSES AND STONES ARRANGED HAPHAZARDLY INSIDE 0RIZE AMONGST THESE IS THE EXQUISITELY CARVED EIGHTH CENTURY BOULDER AT THE BACK OF THE CHURCH ON WHICH THE LETTERS ),4 AND HALF OF A 5 REMAINS OF ),45$ CAN STILL BE MADE OUT !T THE JUNCTION AT THE TOP OF "URIAL ,ANE #OLHUGH 3TREET DESCENDS FOR A LITTLE OVER A MILE ALONG THE SCRUBBY VALLEY OF THE #OL (UW 2IVER TO THE ROCKY BEACH POPULAR FOR SURlNG AND A GREAT STARTING POINT FOR SOME WONDERFUL WALKS ALONG THE CAVES AND INLETS OF THE STRATIlED CLIFFS AND BACK INTO THE ROLLING COUNTRYSIDE 4HE BEST ROUTE TO TAKE IS THE PATH THAT RUNS WEST ALONG THE CLIFFTOPS FOR TWO MILES TO 3T $ONATS "AY DOMINATED BY A MOCK 'OTHIC CASTLE DATING BACK TO THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY THAT WAS BOUGHT AND RESTORED BY 53 TYCOON 7ILLIAM 2ANDOLPH (EARST IN THE S AND IS NOW THE INTERNATIONAL !TLANTIC #OLLEGE AND MULTIPURPOSE ARTS CENTRE INFORMATION WWWSTDONATS COM EASILY AT THE FOREFRONT OF 7ELSH EFFORTS TO INTERNATIONALIZE LOCAL CULTURE !S WELL AS THEATRE lLM DANCE EXHIBITIONS AND COMMUNITY OUTREACH THE CENTRE HOSTS THE EXCELLENT "EYOND THE "ORDER 3TORYTELLING &ESTIVAL *ULY AND THE 6ALE OF 'LAMORGAN &ESTIVAL 3EPT ,LANTWIT -AJOR IS BLESSED WITH GOOD PUBS AND RECREATIONAL FACILITIES MAKING IT PLEASANT ENOUGH TO STAY 4RY THE DECENT 7HITE (OUSE ON &LANDERS 2OAD OFF THE ROAD DOWN TO THE BEACH OR THERES THE FRIENDLY #URRIERS JUST OFF THE MAIN SQUARE ON 7INE 3TREET THECURRIERSCOUK 2OSEDEW &ARM ON (AM ,ANE 3OUTH HAS THE !CORN CAMPSITE an PER PITCH WHERE A FEW TENTS lGHT FOR SPACE AMONGST THE CARAVANS &OR FOOD THERE ARE CHEAP TAKEAWAYS ALONG %AST 3TREET AND ITS CONTINUATION "OVERTON 2OAD OR IN THE OLD TOWN CENTRE TRY THE DAYTIME 4RUFmES CAFÏ IN #HURCH 3TREET WHERE YOU SHOULD LEAVE PLENTY OF ROOM FOR THE SUBLIME HOME MADE CHOCOLATES !LSO ON #HURCH 3TREET IS )LLTYD A
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GREAT CITIES ITS SURPRISINGLY QUIET n YOU CAN EASILY LOSE ALL SIGNS OF CIVILIZATION ALONG SOME OF THE EXCELLENT CLIFF AND BEACH WALKS 5NTIL +ENlG YOURE NOT EVEN AWARE OF THE INDUSTRIALIZED NATURE OF THE AREA AS MOST OF THE OLD FASHIONED LITTLE TOWNS AND SEASHORE VILLAGES SEEM TO HAVE ESCAPED THE EFFECTS OF DEVELOPMENT n A FEW CARAVAN PARKS NOTWITHSTANDING
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NEW GASTROPUB THATS WINNING RAVE REVIEWS FOR ITS WELL COOKED LOCAL SPECIALITIES 4HERES A STACK OF PUBS IN ,LANTWIT OF THEM ALL THE /LD 3WAN )NN ON THE 3QUARE IS BEST FOR FOOD ALTHOUGH THE NEARBY 4UDOR 4AVERN IS MORE OF AN EARTHY DRINKING HOLE &OUR MILES EAST OF TOWN THE GORGEOUS THATCHED "LUE !NCHOR IN %AST !BER THAW IS WELL WORTH THE TRIP EITHER FOR A COSY lRESIDE PINT OR A BRILLIANT MEAL 4PVUIFSOEPXOBOE0HNPSF
]5IF7BMFPG(MBNPSHBO
7EST OF ,LANTWIT -AJOR THE COAST DUCKS AND DIVES PAST REMOTE CLIFFS AND SANDY BEACHES 3/54(%2.$/7. IS A DIFFUSE HOLIDAY VILLAGE OF TOURISTY PUBS AND ONE EXCELLENT RESTAURANT n THE &RENCH INSPIRED &ROLICS ON "EACH 2OAD BOOKING ADVISABLE (OWEVER THE REAL REASON FOR COMING HERE IS $UNRAVEN "AY A BEAUTIFUL WIDE BEACH BACKED BY JAGGED CLIFFS OF PERFECTLY DElNED LAYERS OF LIMESTONE AND SHALE )N THE BUSY CAR PARK BY $UNRAVEN "EACH IS THE (ERITAGE #OAST #ENTRE !PRILn3EPT DAILY AMnPM /CTn-ARCH 3AT 3UN AMnPM A SMALL INFORMATION POINT ABOUT WALKS AND DRIVES ALONG THIS SPLENDID SECTION OF THE SOUTH 7ALES COASTLINE $UNRAVEN IS AT THE WESTERN END OF A MAGNIlCENT lVE MILE COASTAL WALK DIPPING DOWN INTO TINY WOODED VALLEYS AND UP ACROSS WIDE STRETCHES OF CLIFF AND SAND 4HE VILLAGE OF /'-/2% /GWR IS A STRAGGLING WINDSWEPT SORT OF PLACE BUT LIES CLOSE TO THE REMAINS OF /GMORE #ASTLE SITUATED ABOUT A MILE NORTH ALONG THE COAST FROM 3OUTHERNDOWN 3TUNNINGLY SITUATED AT THE VERY BOTTOM OF A mAT VALLEY THE CASTLE DATES FROM THE .ORMAN #ONQUEST IN AROUND BUT ITS SOLID CENTRAL STONE KEEP IN WHICH A FEW ORIGINAL WINDOWS ARE STILL INTACT WAS ADDED LATER IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY "ELOW THE CASTLE THE STEPPING STONES ACROSS THE RIVER MAKE A FUN DIVERSION &XFOOZ1SJPSZ
4HE VILLAGE OF %7%..9 TWO MILES FURTHER UP THE " IS INTERESTING MAINLY FOR THE TOWERING REMAINS OF "ENEDICTINE %WENNY 0RIORY PRIVATE TUCKED AWAY DOWN LEAFY LANES THREE QUARTERS OF A MILE TO THE EAST &OUNDED IN THE PRIORYS FORMIDABLE FORTRESS LIKE WALLS WERE STRENGTHENED CONTINUOUSLY THROUGHOUT THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY AND ARE STILL VERY MUCH INTACT TODAY BROKEN ONLY BY THE TWO HUGE GATEWAYS IN WHICH THE PORTCULLIS HOLES CAN STILL BE SEEN 9OU CAN GET IN TO SEE THE ADJOINING PRIORY CHURCH WHICH IS SQUAT AND POWER FUL BROODING OVER THE ECCLESIASTICAL REMAINS SCATTERED AROUND IT )T IS DIVIDED INTO TWO SECTIONS BY A PLAIN EARLY MEDIEVAL ROOD SCREEN /N THE WESTERN SIDE NEAREST TO THE REST OF THE PRIORY IS THE NAVE WHOSE DAMP COLD INTERIOR INCLUDES SOME SPLENDID .ORMAN WINDOWS 4HIS NAVE SERVED AS THE PARISH CHURCH AS OPPOSED TO THE EASTERN CHANCEL WHICH HOUSED THE MONASTIC CHAPEL .FSUIZS.BXS
/N THE BANKS OF THE /GMORE 2IVER TWO MILES WEST OF %WENNY THE SMALL VILLAGE OF -%24(92 -!72 SEEMS LIKE AN OUTPOST OF CHOCOLATE BOX $ORSET IN SOUTH 7ALES ! NARROW LANE STEERS AROUND INTO THE VILLAGE OF NEAT THATCHED AND WHITEWASHED COTTAGES CONTINUING ALONG A WOODED GLEN TO ITS END ON THE EDGE OF THE GREAT DUNE DESERT OF -ERTHYR -AWR STRETCHING OVER TO THE DISTANT SEA "Y THE CAR PARK IS THE GAUNT RUIN OF #ANDLESTON A lFTEENTH CENTURY FORTIlED MANOR HOUSE THAT WAS ABANDONED IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY AS THE SHIFTING SANDS CAME TOO CLOSE
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7ITH THE USUAL SELECTION OF TATTY BUNGALOWS AND CARAVAN PARKS 0/24(#!7, IS ONE OF 7ALES MOST ENDURING FAMILY RESORTS "UT AFTER RESTING ON ITS LAURELS FOR
4065)& "458"- & 4
]5IF7BMFPG(MBNPSHBO
YEARS THE TOWN HAS lNALLY PULLED ITS SOCKS UP THE SEAFRONT HAS BEEN SPRUCED UP WITH NEW PAVING AND A LIBERAL LICK OF PAINT AND THERE ARE SOME lNE NEW EATERIES AROUND TOO /NCE YOUVE EXHAUSTED THE FUN OF THE FAIR THOUGH THERES LITTLE TO DO OTHER THAN STRIKING OUT ON ENERVATING WALKS ALONG THE COAST OR SURlNG FROM THE SANDY BEACH n AN ACTIVITY WHICH IS MASSIVE HERE (ALF HOURLY BUSES CONNECT "RIDGEND WITH 0ORTHCAWL DEPOSITING TRAVELLERS AT THE TOP OF THE PEDESTRIANIZED *OHN 3TREET IN THE TOWN CENTRE ! TWO MINUTE WALK STRAIGHT DOWN *OHN 3TREET LEADS TO THE /LD 0OLICE 3TATION HOUSING THE TOURIST OFlCE %ASTERn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM ALSO 3UN IN *ULY !UG /CTn%ASTER 4UES &RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM WHERE YOU CAN PICK UP A FAIRLY USEFUL FREE TOWN GUIDE AS WELL AS A LOCAL HISTORY MUSEUM SAME HOURS P *OHN 3TREET CONTINUES DOWN TO THE %SPLANADE 0ORTHCAWLS EXTENSIVE SEAFRONT PROMENADE WHICH STRETCHES THE FULL LENGTH OF THE TOWN AND CHANGES ITS NAME THROUGHOUT 4HE SECTION KNOWN AS THE %SPALANDE IS A TYPICAL ARRAY OF 6ICTORIAN AND %DWARDIAN HOTELS ALONG THE ROCKY BEACH WHERE YOULL lND THE DOMED 'RAND 0AVILION BOX OFlCE HOME TO ASSORTED SEASIDE ENTERTAINMENT SHOWS PANTOMIMES AND A CINEMA %AST THE %SPLANADE RUNS TO A LIFEBOAT STATION AT THE HARBOUR BEFORE VEERING NORTH ALONGSIDE THE COAST AS %ASTERN 0ROMENADE THE HOME OF 0ORTHCAWLS SOLID SEASIDE ATTRACTIONS THE #ONEY "EACH AMUSEMENT PARK BEHIND WHELK STALLS AND CANDY mOSS SHOPS THAT LOOK OUT OVER THE DONKEY RIDES ON 3ANDY "AY AND TWO VAST CARAVAN PARKS PERCHED OVER THIS COVE AND NEIGHBOURING 4RECCO "AY /N THE NORTHWEST SIDE OF TOWN A TWENTY MINUTE WALK FROM THE CENTRE IS THE FAR QUIETER AND MORE BEAUTIFUL 2EST "AY NOTED LOCALLY AS A SWIMMING AND WHEN CONDITIONS ARE RIGHT SURlNG BEACH 4HE GRANDIOSELY NAMED 3IMON 4UCKER 3URlNG !CADEMY WWW SURlNGEXPERIENCECOM OPERATES FROM THE OLD CAR PARK ATTENDANTS HUT ABOVE THE BEACH n AS WELL AS TUITION YOU CAN PICK UP INFORMATION ON THE LOCAL SCENE $URING THE SUMMER SEVERAL AGEING PASSENGER CRUISERS OFFER OCCASIONAL DAY TRIPS AROUND a OUT INTO THE "RISTOL #HANNEL AND ACROSS TO THE $EVON COAST CALL THE TOURIST OFlCE FOR DETAILS !CCOMMODATION IN 0ORTHCAWL IS PLENTIFUL CHEAP AND CONCENTRATED AROUND -ARY 3TREET 'ORDON 2OAD AND ALONG THE PROMENADE IN ITS VARIOUS GUISES 4HE BEST OPTION IN TOWN IS THE SHORELINE &AIRWAYS (OTEL ON 7EST $RIVE WWWTHEFAIRWAYSHOTELCOUK THOUGH THE !RT $ECO ELEGANCE OF THE 3EABANK (OTEL ON THE PROMENADE WWW SEABANKHOTELCOUK MIGHT APPEAL TOO #HEAPER OPTIONS INCLUDE THE &OAM %DGE GUESTHOUSE POPULAR WITH SURFERS AT 7EST $RIVE AND THE NO FRILLS 6ALS RIGHT IN THE CENTRE AT %SPLANADE #AMPERS CAN STAY ABOUT lFTEEN MINUTES WALK NORTH OF TOWN AT "RODAWEL a PER PITCH A SIMPLE lELD SITE ON -OOR ,ANE 4HERE ARE DOZENS OF PLACES TO EAT IN THE TOWN CENTRE THE BEST BEING #OAST AT $OCK 3T WITH ITS MINIMALIST DECOR AND ELEGANT TWISTS ON STURDY 7ELSH CLASSICS /THERWISE %NRICOS 4HE %SPLANADE TURNS OUT RESPECTABLE PIZZA PASTA AND AN EXTENSIVE RANGE OF MAIN COURSES WHILE THE 0EACH 0IT CAFÏ AT 2EST "AY IS A SURFERS HANG OUT /F THE MANY PUBS THE 2OYAL /AK *OHN 3T HAS DECENT BEER AND GENEROUS FOOD AS DOES THE CHEERFUL ,ORELEI AT %SPLANADE !VE ,FOmH
4HE CLIFFS AND BEACHES NORTH OF 0ORTHCAWL STOP AT THE ONE TIME lSHING PORT AND MEDIEVAL BOROUGH OF +%.&)' #YNFlG TWO MILES UP THE COAST (ERE A THRIV ING COMMUNITY FOUNDED IN THE "RONZE !GE WAS lNALLY OVERWHELMED BY SHIFTING SAND DUNES IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY WHICH BURIED HOUSES AND THE CHURCH IN
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]5IF7BMFPG(MBNPSHBO
THEIR PATH THE ONLY SURVIVING REMAINS OF THE MEDIEVAL TOWN ARE THE MISERABLE STUMPS OF THE CASTLE 4ODAY THE DUNES OF +ENlG "URROWS HAVE BEEN STABILIZED BY MARRAM GRASS PLANTATIONS AND THE WHOLE SITE IS OPEN AS A NATURE RESERVE OPEN ACCESS VISITOR CENTRE -ONn&RI nPM 3AT 3UN AND SCHOOL HOLIDAYS DAILY AMnPM WITH A SMALL DISPLAY ABOUT LOCAL WILDLIFE AND ADVICE FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO GO WALKING OR BIRD WATCHING AT THE HIDE BY THE FRESHWA TER +ENlG 0OOL !PART FROM THE INEVITABLE GULLS FREQUENT VISITORS HERE ARE OYSTERCATCHERS RINGED PLOVERS AND REDSHANKS -OST REMARKABLE IS THE RESERVES BACKDROP lRST THE SMOKING STACKS OF THE 0ORT 4ALBOT STEELWORKS AND SECOND THE GREAT HAZY CURVE OF 3WANSEA "AY STRETCHING FOR DOZENS OF MILES TO 'OWER $ONT MISS THE HISTORIC 0RINCE OF 7ALES PUB JUST UP THE ROAD FROM THE NATURE RESERVE ORIGINALLY BUILT IN AS THE REPLACEMENT TOWN HALL FOR ONE THAT HAD BEEN SWALLOWED BY THE SANDS !LTHOUGH MOST OLD PUBS SEEM TO CLAIM THEIR RESIDENT GHOST THE 0RINCE OF 7ALES HAS A FAR STRONGER CASE THAN MOST WITH DOCUMENTED EXAMPLES OF PARANORMAL ACTIVITY %ITHER WAY THE BEER AND FOOD ARE SUPERB
5IFJOMBOE7BMF !LTHOUGH NOT AS STARTLINGLY SCENIC AS THE COAST THE 6ALE OF 'LAMORGANS RURAL LAND IS SPECKLED WITH SOME INTERESTING TOWNS VILLAGES AND RUINED CASTLES CONNECTED BY SMALL HIGH HEDGED LANES ,LANTRISANT A HILLTOP MARKET TOWN JUST OFF THE - SITS ASTRIDE THE BORDER OF MOUNTAINOUS VALLEY AND RURAL VALE WHILE #OWBRIDGE SEVEN MILES SOUTH NESTLES lRMLY IN A GREEN PATCHWORK OF COUNTRYSIDE QUIETLY SECURE IN ITS STATUS AS THE UNOFlCIAL CAPITAL OF THE 6ALE -MBOUSJTBOU
,,!.42)3!.4 PERCHES DRAMATICALLY BETWEEN TWO PEAKS THAT RISE SUDDENLY OUT OF THE mATTENED VALLEY OF THE RIVERS %LY AND #LUN TEN MILES WEST OF #ARDIFF )T WAS ONCE ENCIRCLED BY FORTIlCATIONS TO EXPLOIT ITS NATURAL POSITION AS A WATCH ING POST OVER THE 6ALE OF 'LAMORGAN AND RETAINS ITS STUMP OF A CASTLE NEXT TO THE CHURCH 4HE TOWN CENTRE IS FOCUSED ON THE "ULL 2ING WHERE THERES A SUITABLY WILD EYED STATUE DONATED BY THE #REMATION 3OCIETY OF $R 7ILLIAM 0RICE n DRESSED IN HIS FAVOURED DRUIDS OUTlT OF MOONS STARS AND A FOX FUR ON HIS HEAD $R 0RICE SUBSCRIBED TO SOME PRECOCIOUS BELIEFS n VEGETARIANISM NUDITY REPUBLICANISM THE UNHEALTHINESS OF SOCKS ANTI SMOKING FREE LOVE AND THE POTENTIAL ENVIRONMENTAL DISASTERS FROM MASS INDUSTRIALIZATION AS WELL AS PIONEERING RADICAL HEALTH SCHEMES IN THE 6ALLEYS AT A TIME WHEN LIFE QUALITY AND EXPECTANCY WERE MISERABLY LOW (E IS BEST REMEMBERED FOR CREMATING HIS DEAD INFANT SON )ESU 'RIST 7ELSH FOR h*ESUS #HRISTv IN A MAKESHIFT SERVICE ON ,LAN TRISANT #OMMON IN *ANUARY BURNING THE SMALL BODY IN AN OIL DRUM (E WAS ARRESTED AND IN A SENSATIONAL TRIAL AT #ARDIFF ACQUITTED AFTER WHICH CREMA TION WAS MADE LEGAL IN THE 5+ 9OU CAN LEARN MORE ABOUT $R 0RICE IN AN EXHIBITION IN THE -ODEL (OUSE #RAFT AND $ESIGN #ENTRE 4UESn3UN AMnPM FREE OVERLOOKING THE "ULL 2ING WHERE YOULL ALSO lND PLENTY OF CRAFT OUTLETS THE EXCELLENT 7ORKHOUSE CAFÏ THIS WAS ONCE THE TOWN WORKHOUSE AND A PERMANENT DISPLAY ON THE WORK OF THE 2OYAL -INT MOVED HERE FROM ,ONDON IN $PXCSJEHF
! LITTLE CORNER OF THE (OME #OUNTIES DROPPED IN 'LAMORGAN #/7"2)$'% 9 "ONT &AEN IS PROBABLY 7ALES WEALTHIEST TOWN AS CAN BE GLEANED FROM THE PROFUSION OF HIGH CLASS SHOPS AND RESTAURANTS THAT LINE ITS LONG AND HANDSOME
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]5IF7BMFPG(MBNPSHBO ©5 7ILLIAM©0RICE©STATUE
MAIN STREET A REMNANT OF THE TOWNS .ORMAN STREET PATTERN /N THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE (IGH 3TREET #HURCH 3TREET LEADS UNDER THE NARROW GATEHOUSE THAT IS THE SOLE SURVIVOR OF THE FOUR THAT ONCE PUNCTUATED THE TOWNS FOURTEENTH CENTURY WALLS ! LITTLE MORE THAN A MILE SOUTH OF TOWN DOWN 3T !THAN 2OAD A QUIET LANE FRINGED WITH HIGH HEDGES THERES A TINY LAY BY OPPOSITE THE 2EGENCY lNERY OF (OWE -ILL ! PATH OPPOSITE LEADS ALONG THE BANK OF THE 2IVER 4HAW FOR QUARTER OF A MILE TO THE GAUNTLY IMPRESSIVE RUINS OF "EAUPRE #ASTLE LARGELY AN %LIZA BETHAN MANOR HOUSE "UILT BY THE LOCAL NOBLE FAMILY THE "ASSETTS "EAUPRE IS A HUGE SHELL OF RUINED )TALIANATE DOORWAYS AND VAST MULLIONED WINDOWS IN THE MIDDLE OF A QUIET 'LAMORGAN lELD
4065)& "458"- & 4
)F YOUVE GOT SOME SPARE CASH #OWBRIDGE WILL QUICKLY ABSORB IT 4HERES ACCOMMODATION AT THE COMFY "EAR (OTEL WWWBEARHOTEL COUK ON THE (IGH 3TREET OR A MILE WEST OF TOWN IN THE GRAND OLD MANOR HOUSE OF #ROSSWAYS WWWCROSSWAYSHOUSECOUK #OWBRIDGE IS CHOCK FULL OF GOOD FOOD POSSIBILITIES ESPECIALLY THE VERY REASON ABLE &ARTHINGS 7INE "AR (IGH 3T OR THE POSHER (UDDARTS RESTAURANT AT NO CLOSED -ON /F THE MANY PUBS ALONG THE (IGH 3TREET THE 6ALE OF 'LAMORGAN IS THE COSIEST WHILE THE ATMOSPHERIC THATCH ROOFED "USH )NN IN 3T (ILARY SERVES DELICIOUS FOOD
]5IF7BMFPG/FBUI
5IF7BMFPG/FBUI 4HE 6ALE OF .EATH LIKES TO THINK OF ITSELF AS A WORLD APART FROM THE 6ALLEYS LOOKING MORE TOWARDS #YMRIC 3WANSEA THAN ANGLICIZED #ARDIFF .EATH FOCAL POINT OF THE 6ALE IS A CURIOUS TOWN WITH ANTIQUITIES FROM THE 2OMAN .ORMAN AND MEDIEVAL PERIODS ALL SET IN POST INDUSTRIAL SURROUNDINGS THAT SOMEHOW MAKE THEM ALL THE MORE REMARKABLE 4HE 2IVER .EATH mOWS IN FROM THE NORTH EAST PAST !BERDULAIS WITH ITS IMPRESSIVE INDUSTRIAL WATERFALLS HARNESSED TO GENERATE HYDROELECTRIC POWER 4HE FALLS ARE ON THE $ULAIS 2IVER WHICH HEADS NORTH TO THE #EFN #OED #OLLIERY -USEUM 4HE VALLEYS TO THE EAST OF THE 6ALE OF .EATH ARE DEALT WITH IN THE 6ALLEYS SECTION SEE PP
/FBUI 4HE TOWN OF .%!4( #ASTELL .EDD HAS OVERCOME ITS PAST AS A CENTRE OF COPPER SMELTING TO BECOME A SPACIOUS PLEASANTLY ORDINARY PLACE THAT IS MUCH OVERSHADOWED BY NEAR NEIGHBOUR 3WANSEA 4HE TUMBLEDOWN CASTLE RUINS CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC SIT UNHAPPILY IN A CORNER OF THE -ORRISONS CAR PARK AND NOT FAR AWAY IN THE 'WYN (ALL ON /RCHARD 3TREET YOULL lND THE BOROUGH MUSEUM 4UESn3AT AMnPM FREE A MILDLY INTERESTING RAMBLE THROUGH .EATHS HISTORY OVER THE PAST SIX THOUSAND YEARS HOUSED IN THE SPLENDID SURROUNDINGS OF THE /LD -ECHANICS )NSTITUTION *UST OUTSIDE OF TOWN OFF THE ! ARE THE REMAINS OF .EATH !BBEY FREE ACCESS #!$7 4HE GHOSTLY DARK SILHOUETTE OF THE ABBEY FOUNDED IN THE EARLY TWELFTH CENTURY IS WEDGED IN AMONGST AN INDUSTRIAL ESTATE AND OILY CANAL )N THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY A CHUNK OF THE BUILDING WAS CONVERTED INTO A MANSION WHICH LATER METAMORPHOSED INTO A COPPER SMELTING WORKS
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4WO MILES FURTHER UP THE 2IVER .EATH ACCESSIBLE BY HOURLY BUS FROM 3TATION 3QUARE IN .EATH IS THE VILLAGE OF !"%2$5,!)3 WHERE THE 2IVER $ULAIS TUMBLES OVER THE SCOOPS AND PLATFORMS OF THE !BERDULAIS &ALLS -ARCH .OVn#HRISTMAS &RIn3UN AMnPM !PRILn/CT -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM a .4 4HE NATURAL POWER OF THE SITE WAS lRST HARNESSED IN FOR A COPPER WORKS THAT DEVELOPED INTO A CORN MILL IRONWORKS AND A TIN PLATING UNIT DURING THE NINETEENTH CENTURY /NE HUNDRED AND SIXTY MILLION LITRES OF DEEP GREEN WATER COURSE OVER THE ROCKS EVERY DAY GOUGING OUT BOWLS OF ROCK AND POURING OVER PRECARIOUS LIPS JUTTING OUT OVER THE SPUME BELOW 3OME OF IT IS STILL HARNESSED VIA A MINI HYDRO STATION INSTALLED DURING THE SITES RESTORATION IN AND BY %UROPES LARGEST GENERATING WATER WHEEL BUILT IN THE ORIGINAL WHEEL PIT .EARBY IN THE OLD STABLE BLOCK THERE ARE REPLICAS OF SOME OF
/VER lFTY YEARS AGO LOCAL BOY $YLAN 4HOMAS CALLED 37!.3%! !BERTAWE AN hUGLY LOVELY TOWNv MORE RECENTLY POET 0AUL $URDEN UPDATED THE REFERENCE IN HIS CULT MOVIE 4WIN 4OWN TO hPRETTY SHITTY CITYv "OTH HAVE A RING OF TRUTH TO THEM ,ARGE SPRAWLING AND BOISTEROUS 3WANSEA MAY ONLY BE THE SECOND CITY OF 7ALES BUT ITS THE UNDOUBTED 7ELSH CAPITAL OF ATTITUDE COATED IN A LAYER OF CHUNKY BLING 4HOMAS SCATHING BUT AFFECTIONATE EPITHET IS WELL DESERVED ! JUMBLE OF TOWER BLOCKS AND FACTORY UNITS DOT THE SLOPING HORIZONS GATHERED AROUND THE CONCRETE CITY CENTRE MASSIVELY REBUILT AFTER DEVASTATING BOMB ATTACKS IN 7ORLD 7AR )) "UT MULTIFARIOUS CHARMS SHOW THEMSELVES ON CLOSER INSPECTION SOME INTACT OLD CORNERS OF THE CITY CENTRE THE SPACIOUS AND GRACEFUL SUBURB OF 5PLANDS A WIDE SEAFRONT OVERLOOKING THE HUGE SWEEP OF 3WANSEA "AY AND A BOLD MARINA DEVELOPMENT AROUND THE OLD DOCKS 3PREAD THROUGHOUT ARE SOME OF THE BEST FUNDED MUSEUMS IN 7ALES INCLUDING THE STUNNING NEW .ATIONAL 7ATERFRONT -USEUM n ITSELF REASON ENOUGH TO INCLUDE 3WANSEA ON A TOUR OF 7ALES !NOTHER GREAT BONUS IS THE CITYS POSITION ON THE FRINGE OF THE EVER POPULAR 'OWER WITH THE SEASIDE RESORTS OF -UMBLES AND /YSTERMOUTH NOW LITTLE MORE THAN SALTY SUBURBS AND SOME OF "RITAINS BEST SURlNG OPPORTUNITIES ON THE DOORSTEP
]4XBOTFB
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4065)& "458"- & 4
THE MANY PAINTINGS OF THE FALLS A VENUE BELOVED OF EIGHTEENTH AND NINETEENTH CENTURY LANDSCAPISTS INCLUDING 4URNER 4HE MAIN ! HEADS UP THE 6ALE FROM !BERDULAIS WITH THE ! BRANCHING OFF NORTH TOWARDS #RYNANT AND THE #EFN #OED #OLLIERY -USEUM !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM FREE THREE MILES AWAY !LTHOUGH NOT AS FULL OF GIMMICKS AS THE 2HONDDA (ERITAGE 0ARK OR "IG 0IT #EFN #OED IS AN INTERESTING STOP AND INCLUDES A HUGE WORKING WINDING ENGINE AND SOME WELL PRESENTED EXHIBITIONS ABOUT THE SITE n ONCE THE WORLDS DEEPEST ANTHRACITE MINE 4HERE ARE ALSO SOME GLORIOUS SIGNPOSTED WALKS FROM THE MUSEUM UP INTO THE SURROUNDING WOODED HILLS
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4HE CITYS 7ELSH NAME !BERTAWE REFERS TO THE SETTLEMENT AT THE MOUTH OF THE 2IVER 4AWE A GRIMY DITCH THAT IS SLOWLY BEING TEASED BACK TO LIFE AFTER CENTURIES OF USE AS A SEWER FOR 3WANSEAS METAL TRADES 4HE %NGLISH NAME IS BELIEVED TO DERIVE FROM 6IKING SOURCES SUGGESTING THAT A PRE .ORMAN SETTLEMENT EXISTED IN THE AREA 4HE lRST RELIABLE ORIGINS OF 3WANSEA CAME IN WHEN A .ORMAN CASTLE WAS BUILT HERE AS AN OUTPOST OF 7ILLIAM THE #ONQUERORS EMPIRE ! SMALL SETTLEMENT GREW NEAR THE COALlELDS AND THE SEA DEVELOPING INTO A MINING AND SHIPBUILDING CENTRE THAT BY WAS THE LARGEST COAL PORT IN 7ALES #OPPER SMELTING BECAME THE AREAS DOMINANT INDUSTRY IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY SOON ATTRACTING OTHER METAL TRADES TO PACK OUT THE LOWER 4AWE 6ALLEY $RAWN BY THE TOWNS mOURISHING METAL TRADES A SWIFTLY GROWING PORT AND THE ARRIVAL OF THE 3WANSEA #ANAL THOUSANDS OF EMIGRANTS MOVED TO THE CITY FROM ALL OVER )RELAND AND "RITAIN BY THE NINETEENTH CENTURY THE TOWN WAS ONE OF THE WORLDS MOST PROLIlC METAL BASHING CENTRES 3MELTING WAS ALREADY ON THE WANE BY THE BEGINNING OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY ALTHOUGH 3WANSEAS PORT CONTINUED TO mOURISH "RITAINS lRST OIL RElNERY WAS OPENED ON THE EDGE OF THE CITY IN WITH DOCK DEVELOPMENTS GROWING
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3WANSEA IS THE MAIN INTERCHANGE STATION FOR SERVICES OUT TO THE WEST OF 7ALES AND FOR THE SLOW LINE ACROSS THE MIDDLE OF THE COUNTRY TO 3HREWSBURY IN 3HROPSHIRE 4HE TRAIN STATION IS AT THE TOP END OF THE (IGH 3TREET A TEN MINUTE WALK FROM THE BUS STATION WHICH IS SANDWICHED BETWEEN THE 1UADRANT SHOPPING CENTRE AND THE 'RAND 4HEATRE /N THE NORTHERN SIDE OF THE BUS STATION YOULL lND THE MUNICIPAL TOURIST OFlCE ALL YEAR -ONn3AT AMnPM -AYn3EPT ALSO 3UN AMnPM TOURISM SWANSEAGOVUK WHERE YOU CAN PICK UP THE COMPREHENSIVE BI MONTHLY MAGAZINE 7HATS /N !S MOST OF THE SIGHTS ARE WITHIN WALKING DISTANCE OF EACH OTHER GETTING AROUND 3WANSEA IS EASY 0OPULAR SUBURBS NEAR THE 5NIVERSITY SUCH AS 5PLANDS AND 3KETTY ARE A BRACING HALF HOUR WALK FROM THE CENTRE ALTHOUGH BUSES COVER THE SUBURBS THOROUGHLY AND RUN OUT TO -UMBLES AND 'OWER
4065)& "458"- & 4
IN ITS WAKE #IVIC ZEAL DEMONSTRATED BEST IN THE GRACEFUL S 'UILDHALL DOMINATING THE WEST OF THE CITY WAS REAWAKENED AFTER THE ESTABLISHMENT OF AN IMPORTANT BRANCH OF THE 5NIVERSITY OF 7ALES HERE IN BUT 7ORLD 7AR )) HAD A DEVASTATING EFFECT ON 3WANSEA WITH THIRTY THOUSAND BOMBS RAINING DOWN IN THREE NIGHTS IN 4HE REBUILDING OF THE CENTRE HAS LEFT A SERIES OF SOULLESS CONCRETE STREETS AND UNDERPASSES WEAVING BETWEEN SHOPPING CENTRES ALTHOUGH NOW WITH A POPULATION OF AROUND 3WANSEA IS UNDERGOING SOMETHING OF A RENAISSANCE 7ITH ITS RESURGENT MUSIC CLUB AND SURF SCENES NEW ATTRACTIONS AND SOME SPIRITED REBUILDING AND REDESIGN OF STREETS AND SQUARES IN THE CENTRE 3WANSEA IS BOUNCING BACK
"DDPNNPEBUJPO !S A LIVELY CITY ON THE EDGE OF SOME OF 7ALES MOST POPULAR COAST AND RURAL SCEN ERY 3WANSEA MAKES A LOGICAL BASE 4RANSPORT IS GOOD OUT INTO THE SURROUNDING AREAS AND BEDS IN THE CITY ARE LESS EXPENSIVE THAN THOSE IN THE MORE PICTURESQUE 'OWER $OZENS OF DIRT CHEAP HOTELS AND ""S LINE THE SEAFRONT /YSTERMOUTH 2OAD PITCHED AT THOSE CATCHING THE 3WANSEAn#ORK FERRY AND FOR A FEW POUNDS APIECE EXTRA YOU CAN STAY IN THE MORE SALUBRIOUS SURROUNDINGS OF LEAFY 5PLANDS 4HERE ARE NO HOSTELS IN 3WANSEA AND IF YOU WANT TO CAMP YOULL HAVE TO HEAD OUT TO 'OWER $FGO#SZO6QMBOET$SFTDFOU 6QMBOET XXXDFGOCSZODPVL(SBDF GVMGBNJMZSVOIPUFMJO4XBOTFBTNPTUFMFHBOU TVCVSC $SFTDFOU&BUPO$SFTDFOU 6QMBOET XXXDSFTDFOUHVFTUIPVTF DPVL-BSHF QMFBTBOU XFMMDPOWFSUFE&EXBSEJBO HVFTUIPVTF"MMSPPNTIBWFTIPXFST BOEIBMGIBWF TVQFSCWJFXTPWFSUIFDJUZBOEUIFCBZ %SBHPO,JOHTXBZ$JSDMF XXXESBHPOIPUFMDPVL5IFPME)PMJEBZ*OOIBT CFFONVDISFWBNQFEBOENPEFSOJ[FE NBLJOHJUB TNBSUDFOUSBMPQUJPO (SPTWFOPS)PVTF.JSBEPS$SFTDFOU 6QMBOET XXXHSPTWFOPSHVFTUIPVTF DPVL5JEZBOESFMJBCMFHVFTUIPVTFXJUIHSFBU CSFBLGBTUTBOEIVHFMZFOUIVTJBTUJDQSPQSJFUPST
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5IF$JUZ 3WANSEAS TRAIN STATION FACES OUT ONTO THE (IGH 3TREET WHICH HEADS SOUTH INTO #ASTLE 3TREET AND PAST THE REMAINS OF THE CASTLE 4HE MOST OBVIOUS LANDMARK OF THE RUINS ARE THE SEMICIRCULAR ARCADES BUILT INTO THE WALL BETWEEN AND BY "ISHOP 'OWER TO REPLACE A .ORMAN PREDECESSOR 4HE CASTLE ENJOYS A NEW IMPROVED SETTING AGAINST THE RECENTLY OVERHAULED #ASTLE 3QUARE A PLEASANT AMPHITHEATRE OF STEPS SURROUNDING A FOUNTAIN 4HE RAGBAG OF ARCHITECTURE AROUND IT HOWEVER IS STILL POSTWAR 3WANSEA AT ITS MOST UNADVENTUROUS n PARTICULARLY THE DULL S BLOCK ENTIRELY GIVEN OVER TO -C$ONALDS 2UNNING SOUTH FROM THE SQUARE 7IND 3TREET PRONOUNCED AS IN hWHINEDv HAS BEEN DESIGNATED AS THE MAIN DRAG OF NOCTURNAL 3WANSEA AND IT IS NOW CHOCK FULL OF THEME AND CHAIN BARS PUBS AND RESTAURANTS WITH A FEW MORE UNUSUAL ESTABLISHMENTS SPRINKLED INTO THE MIX ! BLOCK BEHIND THE (IGH 3TREET THE RETAIL PARK ON THE 3TRAND INCLUDES THE GREAT PYRAMIDAL GLASSHOUSE OF 0LANTASIA 4UESn3UN BANK HOLIDAY AMnPM a A SWEATY WORLD OF WONDROUS TROPICAL PLANTS INHABITED BY A MINI ZOO OF TAMARIN MONKEYS BUTTERmIES AND NUMEROUS INSECTS AN AQUARIUM AND A THIRTEEN FOOT "URMESE PYTHON !LEXANDRA 2OAD FORKS RIGHT OFF THE (IGH 3TREET IMMEDIATELY SOUTH OF THE STATION LEADING DOWN TO THE 'LYNN 6IVIAN !RT 'ALLERY 4UESn3UN AMn PM FREE ON THE CORNER OF #LIFTON (ILL A ROAD SO STEEP THAT THE PAVEMENT GIVES WAY TO STEPS EVERY FEW YARDS 4HIS DELIGHTFUL %DWARDIAN GALLERY HOUSES AN INSPIRING COLLECTION OF 7ELSH ART INCLUDING WORKS BY 'WEN *OHN HER BROTHER !UGUSTUS WHOSE MESMERIZING PORTRAIT OF #AITLIN 4HOMAS $YLANS WIFE IS A REAL HIGHLIGHT AND +YFlN 7ILLIAMS THE GRIMY MINING PORTRAITS OF *OSEF (ERMAN AND A WHOLE ROOM OF THE HUGE FRANTIC CANVASES OF #ERI 2ICHARDS 7ALES MOST RESPECTED TWENTIETH CENTURY PAINTER )N THE EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY 3WANSEA WAS A NOTED CENTRE OF lNE PORCELAIN PRODUCTION OF WHICH THE GALLERY HOUSES A LARGE COLLECTION TOGETHER WITH PIECES OF CONTEMPORARY WORKS FROM .ANTGARW NEAR #ARDIFF ,OOK OUT TOO FOR THE FREQUENTLY CHANGING TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS WHICH ARE OF A CONSISTENTLY HIGH STANDARD "ELLE 6IEW 7AY OFF !LEXANDRA 2OAD JUST SOUTH OF THE GALLERY LEADS TO THE UGLY TRAFlC ISLAND THE +INGSWAY #IRCLE THAT ACTS AS A FOCUS FOR 3WANSEAS SHOPPING DISTRICTS WITH /RCHARD 3TREET A PEDESTRIAN LINK TO THE (IGH 3TREET +INGSWAY AND 0RINCESS 7AY ALL CONVERGING ON THE SAME SPOT 4HE MAIN SHOPPING STREETS LIE TO THE SOUTHWEST BOUNDED BY +INGSWAY AND 0RINCESS 7AY 3HELTERING UNDER NEATH THE 1UADRANT #ENTRE THE CURVING ROOFED MARKET MAKES A LIVELY SIGHT WITH PLENTY OF BUSTLE COLOURFUL STALLS AND THE SMELLS OF mOWERS FRESH BAKING AND FOOD /N SALE ARE LOCAL DELICACIES SUCH AS LAVER BREAD A DELICIOUS SAVOURY MADE FROM SEAWEED AS WELL AS COCKLES TRAWLED FROM THE NEARBY ,OUGHOR ESTUARY TYPI CAL 7ELSH CAKES lSH AND CHEESES 5IF.BSJUJNF2VBSUFS
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DOCKS n WITH A CENTREPIECE OF A VAST MARINA SURROUNDED BY LEGIONS OF MODERN mATS 4O THE NORTH A SMALL GRID OF NINETEENTH CENTURY STREETS IS HOME TO A COUPLE OF WORTHWHILE SIGHTS %NTERING THE AREA FROM THE EAST THE MAIN ROAD BRIDGE OVER THE 4AWE IS GUARDED BY A 7ORLD 7AR )) ACK ACK GUN THAT STANDS AS A MEMORIAL TO THE ,UFTWAFFE DECIMATION SUFFERED BY 3WANSEA 4HE CITYS OLD 3OUTH $OCK NOW CLEANED AND SPRUCED UP FEATURES THE 3WANSEA -USEUM 4UESn3UN AMnPM FREE OR MORE PROPERLY THE 2OYAL )NSTITUTION OF 3OUTH 7ALES ON 6ICTORIA 2OAD 7ALES OLDEST PUBLIC MUSEUM WAS FOUNDED IN AND MUCH OF IT IS STILL ENTICINGLY OLD FASHIONED ALTHOUGH RECENT REVAMPING HAS GLITZED UP MANY OF THE DISPLAYS 4HE BIGGEST DRAW IS A WIZENED %GYPTIAN MUMMY BUT THERE ARE LOTS OF ARCHEO LOGICAL lNDS LOCAL PORCELAIN AND POTTERY IN ANCIENT GLASS CASES AND A MARBLE BUST OF 'OWER SON %DWARD %VANS WHO PERISHED WITH 3COTT IN !NTARCTICA IN ! SMALL GRID OF NINETEENTH CENTURY STREETS AROUND THE MUSEUM HAS BEEN THOUGHT FULLY GENTRIlED AND NOW HOUSES SOME ENJOYABLE CAFÏS PUBS AND RESTAURANTS 4UCKED BEHIND THE MUSEUM IN 3OMERSET 0LACE IS THE $YLAN 4HOMAS #ENTRE DAILY AM PM FREE THE .ATIONAL ,ITERATURE #ENTRE FOR 7ALES /PENED IN IT HOUSES A THEATRE SPACE TWO GALLERIES A RESTAURANT BOOKSHOPS AND CRAFT SHOPS 4HE BUILDING COMBINES THE HEAVILY SPRUCED UP NINETEENTH CENTURY 'UILDHALL WITH A HONEYED MODERN EXTENSION )NSIDE THERES AN EXTENSIVE DISPLAY ON $YLAN 4HOMAS INCLUDING A MOCK UP OF THE SHED IN WHICH HE WROTE AT ,AUGHARNE WHERE A FASCINATING VIDEO ON HIS LIFE AND WORK PLAYS CONTINUOUSLY ! HUNDRED YARDS OR SO WEST BEHIND THE %VENING 0OST BUILDING THE CITYS %NVIRONMENT #ENTRE DAILY AMnPM FREE IS HOUSED IN THE OLD TELEPHONE EXCHANGE ON 0IER 3TREET !S WELL AS A RESOURCE CENTRE FOR ALL THINGS GREEN AND PEACEFUL THERE ARE REGULARLY CHANGING EXHIBITIONS INSIDE &ROM HERE "URROWS 0LACE LEADS DOWN TO THE MARINA AND THE SUBLIME NEW .ATIONAL 7ATERFRONT -USEUM DAILY AMnPM FREE A a MILLION PROJECT THAT OPENED IN LATE #ARVED OUT OF THE SHELL OF THE OLD )NDUSTRIAL AND -ARI TIME -USEUM THE ORIGINAL BUILDING HAS BEEN STUNNINGLY EXTENDED TO ACCOM MODATE A BREATHTAKINGLY VARIED SET OF EXHIBITIONS DEALING WITH 7ALES HISTORY OF INNOVATION AND INDUSTRY 4HE MUSEUM IS DIVIDED INTO lFTEEN ZONES LOOKING AT TOPICS SUCH AS ENERGY LANDSCAPE COAL GENEALOGY NETWORKS AND MONEY %ACH SECTION IS BURSTING WITH INTERACTIVE TECHNOLOGY SOME OF WHICH TAKES YOUR BREATH AWAY 9OU CAN FOR INSTANCE mY OVER 3WANSEA EXPLORE THE PEOPLE AND PLACES OF THE CENSUS AND GO VIRTUAL SHOPPING THROUGH HISTORY 4HE METALS SECTION INCLUDES THREE PATERNOSTER LIFTS WHIRRING AROUND TO EXHIBIT SOME OF 7ALES MANY CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE WORLD 7ITHIN THE COMPLEX THERE ARE SHOPS A CAFÏ AND A LOVELY WATERFRONT BALCONY 7ITHOUT DOUBT THIS IS THE MOST IMPRESSIVE MUSEUM IN 7ALES AND SHOULD NOT BE MISSED 4HE MUSEUM FACES OUT ONTO A mOTILLA OF YACHTS BOBBING IN THE MARINA #LOSE BY STANDS *OHN $OUBLEDAYS STATUE OF $YLAN 4HOMAS DUBBED h! 0ORTRAIT OF THE !RTIST AS 3OMEONE %LSEv SINCE IT LOOKS NOTHING LIKE THE POET *UST BEHIND THE STATUE ON 'LOUCESTER 0LACE IS THE MURAL SPLATTERED WAREHOUSE THAT HAS NOW BECOME THE $YLAN 4HOMAS 4HEATRE WHICH INTERSPERSES PRODUCTIONS OF HIS WORK WITH VISITING AND LOCAL COMPANIES OFFERINGS 8FTU4XBOTFB
7EST OF THE CITY CENTRE 3T (ELENS 2OAD DIPS DOWN TO THE SEAFRONT NEAR THE TALL WHITE TOWER OF THE 'UILDHALL AND 7ALTER 2OAD STAYING INLAND UNTIL THE AIRY SUBURB OF 5PLANDS 4HE 'UILDHALL A TYPICALLY SOARING PIECE OF S CIVIC ARCHITECTURE CONTAINS "RANGWYN (ALL FOR ACCESS TAKING ITS
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NAME FROM 3IR &RANK "RANGWYN WHO PAINTED THE EIGHTEEN ENORMOUS "RITISH %MPIRE 0ANELS LINING THE HALL )MMEDIATELY BEHIND THE 'UILDHALL DOWN BY THE COAST ROAD THE MOST PROMINENT FEATURE OF 6ICTORIA 0ARK IS THE 0ATTI 0AVILION A POORLY MAINTAINED BUT ONCE GRACEFUL GREEN ROOFED HALL WITH GLASS SIDES A GIFT FROM OPERA SINGER !DELINA 0ATTI BROUGHT HERE FROM HER HOME AT #RAIG Y NOS IN THE "RECON "EACONS 4HE PAVILION n USED FOR CONCERTS VARIETY SHOWS GIGS AND EVEN RAVES n WAS REBUILT IN THE S ! COUPLE OF STREETS TO THE NORTH OF THE 'UILDHALL IS +ING %DWARDS 2OAD WHERE AT NO $YLANS "OOKSTORE IS THE CITYS MOST COMPREHENSIVE OUTLET DEDICATED TO ITS FAVOURITE SON 4HREE QUARTERS OF A MILE FURTHER ALONG THE COAST ROAD THE DRAB POSTWAR BUILDINGS OF 3WANSEA 5NIVERSITY AFFORD A COMMANDING VIEW OVER THE BAY STRETCHING TO -UMBLES (EAD 7ITHIN THE COMPLEX IS THE ECLECTIC 4ALIESIN !RTS #ENTRE 3WANSEAS MOST IMAGINATIVE PERFORMANCE SPACE TOGETHER WITH THE #ERI 2ICHARDS 'ALLERY -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT NOONnPM FREE SPECIAL IZING IN TOURING EXHIBITIONS OFTEN BY CONTEMPORARY 7ELSH AND #ELTIC ARTISTS ! NEW ADDITION TO THE BUILDING IS THE %GYPT #ENTRE 4UESn3AT AMnPM FREE 7ALES PRE EMINENT %GYPTOLOGY EXHIBIT 4HE COLLECTION IS SPLIT IN TWO 4HE (OUSE OF $EATH WITH ITS FUNERARY PARAPHERNALIA AND 4HE (OUSE OF ,IFE COVERING MORE OF THE DAILY GRIND BESIDE THE .ILE THOUGH EVEN HERE MOST OF THE ARTEFACTS COME FROM TOMBS 4HE APPROACH IS ESSENTIALLY EDUCATIONAL n YOU COULD SPEND HOURS GENNING UP ON .EFERTITI OR JUST TAKE A QUICK LOOK AT THE DISPLAY OF AMULETS OR THE MYSTERIOUS TRUNCATED PYRAMID PLACED AS AN OFFERING IN THE TOMB OF ONE OF THE .EW +INGDOMS MORE COLOURFUL CHARACTERS 0ANEB !T "LACKPILL A MILE OR SO FURTHER WEST AND MIDWAY BETWEEN 3WANSEA CITY AND -UMBLES ARE THE #LYNE 'ARDENS UNRESTRICTED ACCESS THE lFTY ACRE GROUNDS OF THE 6IVIAN FAMILYS OLD ESTATE 4HERE ARE LOVELY WALKS THROUGH RHODODENDRON GLADES BOG GARDENS WOODS MEADOWS AND PAST A FEW FOLLIES (OURLY BUSES LEAVE THE 1UADRANT DEPOT TOWARDS 5PLANDS WHICH IS OTHERWISE A HALF HOUR WALK FROM THE CITY CENTRE .ORTH OF THE MAIN ROAD LEAFY AVENUES RISE UP THE SLOPES PAST THE SHARP TERRACES OF #WMDONKIN 0ARK WHERE THERE IS A MEMORIAL TO $YLAN 4HOMAS INSCRIBED WITH LINES FROM &ERN (ILL ONE OF HIS BEST LOVED POEMS /N THE EASTERN SIDE OF #WMDONKIN 0ARK IS #WMDONKIN $RIVE REACHED FROM THE MAIN ROAD VIA 4HE 'ROVE A SHARPLY RISING SET OF SOLID 6ICTORIAN SEMIS NOTABLE ONLY FOR THE BLUE PLAQUE THAT MARKS NO AS $YLAN 4HOMAS BIRTHPLACE
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4HERE ARE NO TRAIN SERVICES ON 'OWER BUT WITH ITS PROXIMITY TO URBAN 3WANSEA BUS TRANSPORT IS REASONABLY COMPREHENSIVE $AILY SERVICES RUN FROM 3WANSEA TO -UMBLES EVERY lFTEEN MINUTES FROM 3WANSEA TO 0ENNARD EVERY HOUR AND FROM 3WANSEA TO 2HOSSILI /XWICH AND 0ORT %YNON EVERY COUPLE OF HOURS 4HERE ARE ALSO REGULAR BUSES TO THE NORTHWESTERN CORNER AROUND ,LANRHIDIAN 7EOBLEY #ASTLE AND ,LANGENNITH AGAIN ORIGINATING IN 3WANSEA $RIVING AROUND 'OWER IN PEAK SEASON CAN BE FRUSTRATINGLY SLOW AND PARKING CHRONICALLY EXPENSIVE #YCLING TOGETHER WITH WALKING ARE IDEAL WAYS TO TOUR THE AREA AS THE PENINSULAS ATTRACTIONS ARE ALL WITHIN A SHORT DISTANCE OF EACH OTHER AND IN MANY CASES WELL OFF ROAD )TS WORTH BEARING IN MIND THAT ACCOMMODA TION n EVEN CAMPING IS LIMITED ON 'OWER AND GENERALLY IN VERY SHORT SUPPLY THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER %VEN WHEN YOU lND SOMETHING THE CHANCES ARE THE BATHROOM WONT BE EN SUITE UNLESS YOURE PAYING A SIZEABLE AMOUNT
.VNCMFTBOE0ZTUFSNPVUI !T THE FAR WESTERNMOST END OF 3WANSEA "AY AND ON THE CUSP OF 'OWER -UMBLES -WMBWLS IS A LIVELY AND ENJOYABLE ALTERNATIVE BASE TO 3WANSEA WITH A DIVERSE RANGE OF SEASIDE ENTERTAINMENT lNE RESTAURANTS AND THE LEGENDARY -UMBLES -ILE OF PUBS $ERIVED FROM THE &RENCH MAMELLES OR hBREASTSv A REFERENCE TO THE TWIN ISLETS OFF THE END OF -UMBLES (EAD -UMBLES IS NOW USED TO REFER TO THE ENTIRE LOOSE SPRAWL OF /934%2-/54( 9STUMLLWYNARTH n A TERM USED PRETTY MUCH INTERCHANGEABLY WITH -UMBLES (ERE THE SEAFRONT IS AN UNBROKEN CURVE OF BUDGET HOTELS BREEZY PUBS AND CAFÏS LEADING DOWN TO THE OLD FASHIONED PIER AND FUNFAIR TOWARDS THE ROCKY PLUG OF -UMBLES (EAD "EHIND THE PROMENADE A BUSY WARREN OF STREETS CLIMBS THE HILLS LINED WITH SOUVENIR SHOPS DEPARTMENT STORES AND A GLUT OF lNE RESTAURANTS n -UMBLES IS DESERVEDLY RENOWNED FOR ITS CUISINE !ROUND THE HEADLAND REACHED EITHER BY THE LONGER COAST ROAD OR A SHORT WALK OVER THE HILL IS THE DISTRICT OF ,ANGLAND "AY WITH A SANDY BEACH POPULAR WITH SURFERS 4HE HILLTOP ABOVE TOWN IS CROWNED BY THE RUINS OF /YSTERMOUTH #ASTLE !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM a &OUNDED AS A .ORMAN WATCHTOWER THE CASTLE WAS STRENGTHENED BY THE .ORMANS TO WITHSTAND 7ELSH ATTACKS BEFORE BEING CONVERTED INTO A RESIDENCE DURING THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY 4ODAY YOU CAN SEE THE REMAINS OF A LATE THIRTEENTH CENTURY KEEP NEXT TO A MORE ORNATE THREE STOREY RUIN INCORPORATING AN IMPRESSIVE BANQUETING HALL AND STATE ROOMS 4HE SURROUNDING PARKLAND AFFORDS LUSH VIEWS OVER THE -UMBLES HEADLAND 3WANSEA AND ITS SWEEPING BAY 4HE SCORES OF PUBS ALONG THE SEAFRONT CONSTITUTE THE -UMBLES -ILE ONE OF 7ALES MOST NOTORIOUS PUB CRAWLS AND HOME MOST WEEKENDS TO STAG AND HEN PARTIES 4HE FOCUS WAS TRADITIONALLY 4HE -ERMAID WHICH WAS MUCH FAVOURED BY THE YOUNG $YLAN 4HOMAS )T BURNT DOWN A FEW YEARS AGO PROBABLY FOR THE BEST AS IT HAD BECOME PACKED FULL OF $YLAN 4HOMAS KITSCH AND MEMORABILIA AND WITLESSLY RENAMED $YLANS 4AVERN 4HESE DAYS PLACES WORTH A LINGERING STOP INCLUDE THE !NTELOPE THE /YSTERCATCHER AND THE 7HITE 2OSE 1SBDUJDBMJUJFT
4HE SMALL TOURIST OFlCE ALL YEAR -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN SCHOOL HOLIDAYS ONLY NOONnPM IS IN THE -ETHODIST CHURCH ON -UMBLES
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2OAD JUST BEYOND THE .EWTON 2OAD JUNCTION 3TAFF CAN ADVISE ON ACCOM MODATION AROUND 'OWER AS WELL AS IN -UMBLES 'OOD CHOICES HERE INCLUDE A NUMBER OF OPTIONS ALONG THE SHOREFRONT -UMBLES 2OAD THE CHINTZY #OAST (OUSE AT NO WWWTHECOASTHOUSECOUK THE ELEGANT 4IDES 2EACH AT NO WWWTIDESREACHGUESTHOUSE COUK THE TASTEFULLY FURNISHED AND VERY WELCOMING !LEXANDRA (OUSE AT NO WWWALEXANDRA HOUSECOM AND BEST OF ALL THE LOVELY 0ATRICKS WITH 2OOMS AT NO WWWPATRICKSWITH ROOMSCOM .EWTON 2OAD CLIMBS UP FROM THE BEACH TOWARDS ,ANGLAND "AY AND ANOTHER GOOD OPTION THE CHEERFUL (ILLCREST (OUSE (OTEL WWW HILLCRESTHOUSEHOTELCOM WHICH OFFERS QUIRKY THEMED BEDROOMS AND A QUIET SETTING 4HERES GREAT SELF CATERING ACCOMMODATION AVAILABLE FOR AS LONG AS YOU WANT AT THE #LYNE &ARM #ENTRE 7ESTPORT !VENUE WWW CLYNEFARMCOM WHICH ALSO HAS A CAMPSITE AND SERVES BREAKFASTS AS BIG AS YOU LIKE )TS LOCATED JUST OFF THE ! IN "LACKPILL ROUGHLY MIDWAY BETWEEN -UMBLES AND 3WANSEA AND YOU CAN ARRANGE FOR SOMEONE TO COME AND PICK YOU UP IF YOU ARRIVE BY BUS TRAIN OR FERRY -UMBLES IS A GREAT PLACE TO STAY FOR PEOPLE WHO DElNE THEIR HOLIDAYS BY GOOD FOOD $AYTIME HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE THE INEXPENSIVE #OFFEE $ENN .EWTON 2D PARTICULARLY GOOD FOR SWEET TREATS AND 6ERDIS OVERLOOKING THE SEA AT +NAB 2OCK NEAR THE PIER n A -UMBLES INSTITUTION FOR ITS LIVELY 7ELSH )TALIAN ATMOSPHERE AND SUPERB PIZZAS AND ICE CREAM CONCOCTIONS &OR REALLY SPECIAL LUNCHES OR DINNERS TRY THE MODERATELY PRICED 0!S 7INE "AR .EWTON 2D WHICH EXCELS WITH ITS lSH DISHES THE PRICIER +NIGHTS AT n -UMBLES 2D FOR FANTASTIC FUSION CUISINE AND THE NEW KID ON THE BLOCK THE TRULY SPECIAL AT -UMBLES 2D WHERE YOU CAN START WITH A WHITE BEAN SOUP DRIZZLED IN TRUFmE OIL BEFORE TUCKING INTO HEARTY MAINS OF BEAUTIFULLY PREPARED LOCAL BEEF LAMB AND SEAFOOD
5IFTPVUIBOEXFTU(PXFSDPBTUT &ROM -UMBLES (EAD THE LIMESTONE CRAGS OF THE SOUTHERN 'OWER COAST TWIST AND DELVE THE lFTEEN MILES OR SO TO 7ORMS (EAD AT THE BOTTOM OF 2HOSSILI "AY -ANY OF THE SANDY BAYS THAT RUPTURE THE CLIFFS ARE EASILY ACCESSIBLE BY CAR SO THEY TEND TO BE CROWDED IN PEAK SEASON 'SPN.VNCMFT)FBEUP5ISFF$MJGGT#BZ
4HE lRST FEW MILES OF THE SOUTHERN 'OWER COAST ARE HIGHLY DEVELOPED WITH STERN HOTELS AND BEACH HUTS BACKING SOME lNE SANDS "EST LOCALLY IS ,ANGLAND "AY A GASH OF SAND BETWEEN TWO HEADLANDS THE BEACH IS VERY POPULAR WITH SURFERS PARTLY BECAUSE IT IS ONLY A MILE OR SO FROM THE MIDDLE OF -UMBLES 4HE NARROW GOLDEN SANDED #ASWELL "AY COMES NEXT BUT ITS BEST TO CRACK ON AROUND THE STUNNING CLIFF PATH TO THE TINY AND REMOTE OLD SMUGGLERS HAUNT OF "RANDY #OVE OR PEBBLY 0WLLDU "AY WHICH IS OWNED BY THE .ATIONAL 4RUST AND BACKED BY A WOODED RAVINE THAT OFFERS MANY STUNNING WALKS "RANDY #OVE AND 0WLLDU "AY ARE INACCESSIBLE BY CAR PARK IN "ISHOPSTON VILLAGE AND WALK THE LAST MILE OR SO 4HREE MILES ALONG HUGE 4HREE #LIFFS "AY IS ONE OF 'OWERS lNEST BEACHES AT THE END OF A SILENT VALLEY FRINGED BY DUNES AND THE EERIE RUINS OF 0ENNARD #ASTLE !LTHOUGH JUSTIlABLY POPULAR ITS RELATIVE INACCESSIBILITY ENSURES THAT ITS NEVER TOO PACKED 4HE BEST APPROACH IS FROM THE CAR PARK AT 3OUTHGATE FROM WHERE YOU HIKE A MILE OR SO WEST ALONG CLIFF TOPS INHABITED BY SEMI WILD PONIES TO 4HREE
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#LIFFS "AY WHERE YOU TURN INLAND AND FOLLOW THE BOUNDARY OF THE GOLF COURSE TO THE CASTLE /THERWISE YOU CAN TRY ONE OF THE PATHS THAT FAN OUT ALONG THE TUFTY VALLEY OF THE 0ENNARD 0ILL FROM 0!2+-),, A TOURIST HONEYPOT ON THE MAIN ! (ERE THE 'OWER (ERITAGE #ENTRE DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM a IS ONLY SUITED TO FOLK NEEDING TO ENTERTAIN BORED KIDS ! MILE NORTH OF 0ARKMILL REACHABLE VIA THE LANE THAT HEADS PAST THE (ERITAGE #ENTRE IS THE .EOLITHIC n "# BURIAL CHAMBER KNOWN IN HONOUR OF THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY LORDS OF /YSTERMOUTH #ASTLE AS 0ARC LE "REOS !LTHOUGH OVER RESTORED THE ROOmESS CHAMBER IS IMPRESSIVE IF ONLY BECAUSE OF ITS AGE AND SHEER SIZE n SEVENTY FEET LONG AND DIVIDED INTO FOUR SEPARATE CHAMBERS )N THE SKELETONS OF TWO DOZEN PEOPLE WERE FOUND INSIDE *UST BEYOND THE CHAMBER AND TO THE RIGHT A DEEP lSSURE IN A LIMESTONE OUTCROP MARKS THE POSI TION OF THE DANK AND MUSTY #ATHOLE 2OCK #AVE IN WHICH mINT TOOLS DATING BACK OVER YEARS HAVE BEEN FOUND 4HE BEST LOCAL "" IS ALMOST A MILE UP A LANE BESIDE THE (ERITAGE #ENTRE ONE OF THE ORIGINAL 'OWER MANOR HOUSES THE GRAND AND WELCOMING 0ARC LE "REOS (OUSE WWWPARC LE BREOSCOUK ALSO RENTS BIKES a PER DAY AND LEADS FULL DAY HORSEBACK SIGHTSEEING TRIPS FOR a #AMPERS SHOULD MAKE FOR THE 4HREE #LIFFS #ARAVAN 0ARK AT .ORTH (ILLS &ARM OPEN !PRILn/CT a PER PITCH OVERLOOKING 4HREE #LIFFS "AY BETWEEN 0ARKMILL AND 0ENMAEN 0YXJDI
/NE OF THE MOST CURIOUS LANDSCAPES IN 'OWER IS THE REEDY NATURE RESERVE AROUND /XWICH "URROWS A mATLAND OF SALT AND FRESHWATER MARSHES REACHED VIA THE LANE THAT FORKS LEFT OFF THE ! AT THE RUINED GATEHOUSE OF THE PRIVATELY OWNED 0ENRICE #ASTLE #LOSE BY ON THE COAST THE SCATTERED VILLAGE OF /87)#( IS GROUPED NEXT TO THE GAPING SANDS OF /XWICH "AY 4HE SANDS AND SEA AROUND HERE REGULARLY RECEIVE AWARDS n INCLUDING THE COVETED %5 BLUE mAG n FOR THEIR QUALITY AND THIS IS CERTAINLY ONE OF 'OWERS MOST POPULAR RESORTS /NE WAY TO SAMPLE THE WATERS BETWEEN -AY AND MID 3EPTEMBER IS WITH 'OWER 7INDSURlNG WHO WILL TAKE YOU OUT FOR ABOUT a AN HOUR AND OFFER TUITION FOR BEGINNERS AND EXPERTS !LSO BASED HERE IS %UPHORIA 3AIL ING WWWEUPHORIASAILINGCOM WHICH OFFERS TUITION AND RENTAL FOR SAILING WATER SKIING AND WAKEBOARDING 4HE SQUAT CHURCH OF 3T )LLTUD SITS ALONE AWAY FROM THE VILLAGE AT THE TOP OF THE BEACH ! QUIETER BEACH CAN BE FOUND JUST OVER A MILE AWAY AT 3LADE 3ANDS REACHED ALONG THE LANE THAT CLIMBS FROM THE /XWICH CROSSROADS PAST THE RUINS OF A 4UDOR MANOR KNOWN AS /XWICH #ASTLE %ASTERn3EPT DAILY AMnPM a #!$7 )TS A lNE EXAMPLE OF EARLY SIXTEENTH CENTURY HOUSE GENTRIlCATION BY 3IR 2ICE -ANSEL MEMBER OF A POWERFUL 7ELSH DYNASTY (IS SON %DWARD ADDED THE MULTIWINDOWED EASTERN RANGE A PILE OF ROOMS TOGETHER WITH A HIGHLY FASH IONABLE LONG GALLERY THAT FELL INTO RUIN SHORTLY AFTERWARDS 4HE POPULARITY OF /XWICH IS EVIDENT IN ITS PLENTIFUL ACCOMMODA TION ""S INCLUDE ,ITTLE (AVEN WWWLITTLEHAVENOXWICH COUK CLOSED $EC COMPLETE WITH AN OUTDOOR POOL 3URFSOUND 'UESTHOUSE SURFSOUND BTINTERNETCOM CLOSED .OVn&EB AND 7OODSIDE CLOSED .OVn&EB ALL ON THE MAIN STREET AND WITH EN SUITE ROOMS .EARBY THE PLAIN /XWICH "AY (OTEL WWWOXWICHBAYHOTELCOUK ENJOYS ITS SPLENDID ISOLATION BY THE SANDS NEAR THE PARISH CHURCH )TS A GOOD PLACE TO EAT TOO 4HE /XWICH #AMPING 0ARK ON THE 0ENRICE ROAD OVER A MILE BACK FROM THE BEACH !PRILn3EPT an PER PITCH HAS A SWIMMING POOL AND LAUNDRY ON SITE
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4HE ROCKY CLIFFS FROM /XWICH 0OINT FADE INTO WIDE STONY BAYS TOWARDS THE QUIET VILLAGE OF (/24/. WITH A DECENT BEACH AND BRASHER 0/24 %9./. BUSY AND TOURISTY BY COMPARISON WITH A CLUTCH OF CHIP SHOPS AND THE LAID BACK 3HIP )NN 4HE VILLAGES SANDS AND DUNES ARE SHELTERED BY A PROMINENT HEADLAND EASILY REACHED BY A SERIES OF PATHS THAT WIND THEIR WAY ALONG THE SHORE FROM THE CAR PARK PAST THE 6ICTORIAN LIFEBOAT STATION NOW THE YOUTH HOSTEL AND ABOVE THE BLEAK RUINS OF THE OLD SHORELINE SALT HOUSE AND OYSTER POOLS 4HE HEADLAND OWNED BY THE .ATIONAL 4RUST IS A WILD AND WINDY SPOT WHERE TUFTED GRASS GIVES WAY TO SHARP LIMESTONE CRAGS ! NATURAL CAVE AT THE TIP CAN BE SEEN FROM ABOVE A GREAT DOME SHAPED CHASM THAT PLUNGES INTO THE HILLSIDE !ROUND THE HEADLAND TO THE WEST IS THE QUITE REMARKABLE BUT FAIRLY HARD TO lND #ULVER (OLE BUILT INTO THE CLIFFS ! MAN MADE CAVE IT MAY ORIGINALLY HAVE BEEN A STRONGHOLD FOR THE LONG GONE 0ORT %YNON CASTLE AND HAS SERVED ITS TIME SUBSEQUENTLY AS A SMUGGLERS RETREAT DOVECOTE AND ARMOURY
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4HE LICHEN SPATTERED LIMESTONE HEADLAND CASTS GOOD VIEWS OVER THE CURVE OF 0ORT %YNON "AY AND THE CLIFFS ROUND TO 2HOSSILI lVE MILES WEST 4HIS COASTAL PATH IS THE MOST SPECTACULAR WALK ON 'OWER VEERING ALONG CRAGS ABOVE THUN DERING WAVES FOR lVE MILES 4HE ONLY REAL BEACH ALONG THIS STRETCH IS THE SECLUDED -EWSLADE "AY JUST SHORT OF 2HOSSILI AND ACCESSIBLE BY THE PATH FROM 0ITTON !LONG THE COAST WALK ABOUT MIDWAY BETWEEN THE TWO VILLAGES IS 0AVILAND #AVE THE SITE OF AN ASTONISHING lND IN THE SKELETON OF A 3TONE !GE HUNTER DATED TO AT LEAST YEARS OLD !T 4HURBA (EAD ON THE EASTERN SIDE OF -EWSLADE "AY THERE ARE A FEW SCANT REMAINS OF AN )RON !GE HILLFORT SITED MAGNIlCENTLY A FEW HUNDRED FEET ABOVE THE WAVES 0ORT %YNON HOGS THE ACCOMMODATION LIMELIGHT )TS 9(! HOSTEL a PER BED CLOSED .OVn-ARCH IS PARTICULARLY GOOD A WELCOMING FORMER LIFEBOAT STATION NECESSARILY WELL SITED RIGHT BY THE BEACH /THERWISE THERES THE #ULVER (OUSE (OTEL WWWCULVERHOUSEHOTEL COUK THE SIMPLE BUT APPEALING (IGHlELD CLOSED .OVn-ARCH YARDS FROM THE WATER ON THE MAIN ROAD OR CAMPING ABOVE THE YOUTH HOSTEL AT #ARREGLWYD 0ARK a PER PITCH OR AT THE FAMILY ORIENTED "ANK &ARM a PER PITCH OFF THE ! TOWARDS (ORTON 3IPTTJMJ 8PSNT)FBEBOE-MBOHFOOJUI
4HE VILLAGE OF 2(/33),) 2HOSILI AT THE WESTERN END OF THE 'OWER IS A CENTRE FOR WALKERS AND BEACH LOUNGERS ALIKE $YLAN 4HOMAS DESCRIBED THE TERRAIN TO THE WEST OF THE VILLAGE AS hRUBBERY GULL LIMED GRASS THE SHEEP PILLED STONES THE PIECES OF BONES AND FEATHERSv AND YOU CAN TREAD IN HIS FOOTSTEPS TO 7ORMS (EAD AN ISOLATED STRING OF ROCKS WITH THE SPECTACULAR APPEARANCE OF A BASKING 7ELSH DRAGON ACCESSIBLE FOR ONLY lVE HOURS AROUND LOW TIDE "E VERY CAREFUL n THERE ARE DEATHS HERE EVERY YEAR !T THE HEAD OF THE ROAD NEAR THE VILLAGE IS A WELL STOCKED HELPFUL .ATIONAL 4RUST INFORMATION CENTRE %ASTERn/CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn$EC 7EDn3UN AMnPM *ANn-ARCH 3AT 3UN AMnPM )T POSTS THE TIDE TIMES OUTSIDE FOR THOSE HEADING FOR 7ORMS (EAD AND HOLDS DETAILS OF LOCAL COMPANIES RENTING SURlNG AND HANG GLIDING EQUIPMENT "ELOW THE VILLAGE A GREAT CURVE OF WHITE SAND STRETCHES AWAY INTO THE DISTANCE A DAZZLING COASTLINE VAST ENOUGH TO ABSORB THE CROWDS ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE PREPARED TO HEAD A LITTLE WAY NORTH ALONG IT TOWARDS "URRY (OLMS AN ISLET THREE MILES DISTANT THAT IS CUT OFF AT HIGH TIDE 4HE NORTHERN END OF THE BEACH CAN ALSO BE REACHED ALONG THE SMALL LANE FROM 2EYNOLDSTON IN THE MIDDLE OF THE PENINSULA TO ,LANGENNITH ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE TOWERING SANDSTONE 2HOSSILI $OWN RISING UP TO FT )N THE VILLAGE THE LEGENDARY 0*S 3URFSHOP WWWPJSURFSHOPCOUK HAS A WIDE RANGE OF RENTAL SURF BOARDS a PER DAY WETSUITS a PER DAY AND BOOGIE BOARDS a PER DAY ! MILE AWAY AT THE (ILLEND CAMPSITE SEE BELOW THE 7ELSH 3URlNG &EDERATIONS 3URF 3CHOOL WWWWSFSURFSCHOOLCOUK RUNS HALF DAY a AND FULL DAY a SURlNG COURSES !CCOMMODATION IN 2HOSSILI VILLAGE IS PRETTY SCARCE ON THE SPOT THERES ONLY REALLY #REEK (OUSE WWWCREEKHOUSECOUK A PLEASANTLY UNDERSTATED "" OR THE 7ORMS (EAD (OTEL WWWTHEWORMSHEADCOUK WHICH IS /+ BUT RELIES TOO MUCH ON ITS SPECTACULAR VIEWS RATHER THAN THE QUALITY OF ITS ACCOMMODATION OR FOOD 4HAT SAID THERES NO PUB GARDEN IN 7ALES WITH A BETTER ASPECT )N ,LANGENNITH THERES TWO LOVELY ""S IN THE SHAPE OF #OLLEGE (OUSE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE VILLAGE AND THE VERY CHILLED
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4HE GREAT SWEEP OF LAND THAT RISES TO THE NORTH OF THE MAIN 'OWER ROAD DOES NOT ATTRACT ANYTHING LIKE THE NUMBER OF VISITORS THAT THE SOUTH AND WEST DO DUE TO THE LACK OF COMPARABLE COASTLINE THE NORTHERN FRINGE OF THE 'OWER IS A mAT TENED SERIES OF MARSHES AND MUD mATS MERGING INDISTINGUISHABLY WITH THE SANDS OF THE ,OUGHOR ESTUARY 7ADING BIRDS GULLS AND BEDDED COCKLES AS WELL AS SCORES OF WILD HORSES AND CATTLE CAN ALL BE FOUND AMONGST THE mATS DUNES AND INLETS BURROWING INTO THE LAND FROM THE ESTUARY 'OWERS CENTRAL PLATEAU IS OFTEN IGNORED WITH MUCH OF THE COUNTRYSIDE NOTH ING MORE THAN A PLEASANT PATCHWORK OF PASTORAL FARMLAND 'OWERS BACKBONE IS THE GREAT RIDGE #EFN "RYN STRETCHED ACROSS THE CENTRE OF THE PENINSULA SAVAGE AND IMPRESSIVE ITS WIRY PEAT AND GRASS DOTTED WITH HARDY SHEEP ANCIENT STONE CAIRNS AND HOLY WELLS 4HE BEST VIEWS OVER THE PENINSULA ARE FROM THE ROAD BRUSHING OVER ITS ROOF
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7ESTERN (OUSE WWWLLANGENNITHFREESERVECOUK ON THE LANE TOWARDS THE BEACH 4HAT PETERS OUT HALF A MILE FURTHER AT (ILLEND an PER PITCH A FABULOUS CAMPSITE BEHIND THE DUNES AND WITH DIRECT ACCESS TO THE GLORIOUS BEACH "ACK IN THE VILLAGE THE +INGS (EAD IS A lNE PUB FOR FOOD AND DRINK
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4HE #EFN "RYN RIDGE OF SANDSTONE STRETCHES OUT ACROSS THE MIDDLE OF 'OWER CLIMBING OVER lVE HUNDRED FEET TO GIVE SOME GREAT VIEWS TO BOTH COASTS OF THE PENINSULA )T IS MOST EASILY EXPLORED FROM THE QUIET VILLAGE OF 2%9./,$ 34/. GROUPED AROUND A SHEEP lLLED VILLAGE GREEN 4HE VILLAGES PUB THE +ING !RTHUR (OTEL WWWKINGARTHURHOTELCOUK WHICH HAS COMFORTABLE EN SUITE ROOMS AND DISHES UP ALMOST THE BEST MEALS AT THIS END OF THE PENINSULA !LMOST BECAUSE NEARBY IS THE LUXURIOUS &AIRYHILL WWWFAIRYHILLNET A GORGEOUS COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL WITH A SUPERB RESTAURANT OPEN TO NON RESIDENTS &ROM 2EYNOLDSTON A DRAMATIC ROAD RISES UP THE SLOPE OF #EFN "RYN BEFORE SKAT ING ACROSS ITS SUMMIT IN A PERFECT STRAIGHT LINE 4HERE ARE SEVERAL TRACKS LEADING OFF
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FROM THE ROAD WHICH PROVIDE CLEAR VIEWS TO BOTH 'OWER COASTS BUT YOU MIGHT BE BEST OFF STOPPING AT THE SMALL CAR PARK ABOUT A MILE EAST OF 2EYNOLDSTON FROM HERE A PATH ACROSS THE BOGGY MOOR LEADS TO +ING !RTHURS 3TONE A MASSIVE AND ISOLATED BURIAL CHAMBER CAPSTONE DATING FROM AT LEAST "# AND WEIGHING OVER TONS 'SPN-MBOSIJEJBOUP-MBONBEPD
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4HE SMALL AND UNREMARKABLE VILLAGE OF ,,!.2()$)!. SITS ABOVE THE GREAT MARSH OF THE SAME NAME A LARGELY INACCESSIBLE GOO OF MUD AND WATER VIRTU ALLY INDISTINGUISHABLE FROM THE SANDS OF THE ,OUGHOR ESTUARY 6IEWS FROM THE FORMER VILLAGE PUB NOW THE EXQUISITE 7ELCOME TO 4OWN BISTRO ARE SUPERB (ALF A MILE WEST IN THE HAMLET OF /LDWALLS THE 'REYHOUND )NN IS A CHEAPER FOOD OPTION BUT VERY GOOD NONETHELESS ! FURTHER MILE WEST AND YOU COME TO 7EOBLEY #ASTLE DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM a #!$7 'AUNT AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE MARSH AND THE ESTUARY THE CASTLE WAS BUILT AS A FORTIlED MANOR IN THE LATTER PART OF THE THIR TEENTH CENTURY 4HE LANE CONTINUES TWO MILES WEST TO THE VILLAGE OF #HERITON WITH ITS CHARM ING THIRTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH AND THEN ON TO ,,!.-!$/# WHERE YOU CAN PARK AND VENTURE ONTO THE LAND SPIT OF 7HITFORD "URROWS A SOFT PATCH OF DUNES NOW OPEN AS A NATURE RESERVE 0ATHS LEAD FROM ,LANMADOC VILLAGE UP THE STEEP HUMP OF ,LANMADOC (ILL TO THE SOUTH 4HE "ULWARK A LONELY AND WINDY HILLFORT CAN BE SEEN AT THE EASTERN END OF ,LANMADOC (ILLS SUMMIT RIDGE ""S ALONG ,LANMADOCS MAIN ROAD INCLUDE THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY "RITAN NIA )NN WHERE YOU CAN GET A DECENT PINT OF REAL ALE AND THE 4ALLIZMAND 'UESTHOUSE WHICH HAS EN SUITE ROOMS AND ACCEPTS DOGS
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4HE ANCIENT AND UNQUESTIONED CAPITAL OF ITS REGION #!2-!24(%. #AERFYRDDIN DOES NOT ENTIRELY LIVE UP TO THE PROMISE OF ITS STATUS !LTHOUGH ITS A USEFUL TRANSPORT INTERCHANGE AND LIVELY MARKET TOWN WITH SOME EXCELLENT SHOPS AND SIXTY PUBS FOR INHABITANTS THERES AN UNDENIABLY CHEERLESS ATMOSPHERE WHICH DOESNT ENCOURAGE YOU TO STAY FOR LONG n FORTUNATELY WITH SO MANY BEAUTIFUL AND INTERESTING PLACES NEARBY THERES LITTLE NEED TO )TS THE lRST MAJOR TOWN IN WEST 7ALES WHERE THE NATIVE LANGUAGE IS HEARD AT ALL TIMES AND WAS ONCE n IN THE EARLY EIGHTEENTH CENTURY n THE LARGEST TOWN IN ALL OF 7ALES ON THE STRENGTH OF ITS POSITION AT THE TIDAL LIMIT OF THE 2IVER 4YWI &OUNDED AS A 2OMAN FORT #ARMARTHENS MOST POPULAR MOMENT OF MYTHO LOGICAL HISTORY DATES FROM THE $ARK !GES AND THE SUPPOSED BIRTH OF THE WIZARD -ERLIN JUST OUTSIDE THE TOWN SEE BOX n -YRDDIN IN 7ELSH GIVES #ARMARTHEN ITS NAME )N THE LATE ELEVENTH CENTURY THE .ORMANS BEGAN A CASTLE NEAR THE REMAINS OF A 2OMAN FORT EXTENDING ITS WALLS TO ENCOMPASS A GROWING VILLAGE )N #ARMARTHEN WAS GRANTED ITS lRST CHARTER BY %DWARD ) HELPING THE TOWN TO mOURISH AS AN IMPORTANT WOOL CENTRE AND THE TOWN WAS TAKEN BY /WAIN 'LYND"R IN THE EARLY YEARS OF THE lFTEENTH CENTURY !N EISTEDDFOD WAS INAUGURATED IN THE MID lFTEENTH CENTURY AND IS STILL USED AS THE BASIS FOR TODAYS .ATIONAL %ISTEDDFOD 4HE IMPORTANCE OF THE TOWN GREW ATTRACTING TRADE AND NEW COMMERCE INDUSTRIAL WORKS A KEY PORT AND A POSI TION AS A SEAT OF LOCAL GOVERNMENT A STATUS IT STILL HOLDS AS THE COUNTY TOWN OF #ARMARTHENSHIRE ! MILE OUT OF TOWN !BERGWILI IS PRIMARILY OF INTEREST FOR THE QUALITY #ARMARTHEN #OUNTY -USEUM AND ITS ROLE AS -ERLINS RESTING PLACE
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1SBDUJDBMJUJFT 4RAINS BETWEEN 3WANSEA AND 0EMBROKESHIRE STOP AT THE TRAIN STATION WHICH LIES OVER THE #ARMARTHEN BRIDGE ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE 2IVER 4YWI !LL BUSES TERMINATE AT THE BUS STATION ON "LUE 3TREET NORTH OF THE RIVER AND MANY CONNECT WITH THE ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF TRAINS 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS AT ,AMMAS 3T NEAR THE #RIMEA -ONUMENT DAILY AMnPM WWW CARMARTHENSHIREGOVUK WHILE INFORMATION ON THE ALTERNATIVE SCENE CAN BE FOUND AT !ARDVARK 7HOLEFOODS IN -ANSEL 3TREET OR FOR 7ELSH LANGUAGE EVENTS 3IOP Y 0ENTAN IN THE MARKET SQUARE &OR FREE )NTERNET ACCESS VISIT THE LIBRARY ON +ING 3TREET NEAR 3T 0ETERS CHURCH 4HE RANGE OF ACCOMMODATION AND EATING IN #ARMARTHEN IS LIMITED AND FEW PLACES ARE TRULY NOTABLE SO THE FOLLOWING LISTINGS INCLUDE A SELECTION OF PLACES IN THE ADJOINING 4YWI 6ALLEY "DDPNNPEBUJPO
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CLIMATE THE #APE REGION OF 3OUTH !FRICA SOUTHWESTERN !USTRALIA #HILE #ALI FORNIA AND THE -EDITERRANEAN ITSELF .OT FAR AWAY ARE THE REMAINS OF -IDDLE TON (ALL WHICH BURNT DOWN IN WHOSE OLD ESTATE FORMS THE CENTREPIECE OF THE GARDENS ! NEARBY GROUP OF BUILDINGS HOUSE A RESTAURANT AN EXCELLENT EXHIBITION ABOUT THE 7ELSH HERBALISTS KNOWN AS THE 0HYSICIANS OF -YDDFAI AND THE NEW 4HEATRE "OTANICA ALL FOCUSED AROUND -ILLENNIUM 3QUARE THE VENUE FOR OPEN AIR CONCERTS AND PERFORMANCES 4HE ENTIRE GARDEN HAS BEEN DESIGNED AROUND PRINCIPLES OF SUSTAINABILITY RAINWATER IS CAUGHT AND USED FOR IRRIGATION THE GLASSHOUSES ARE HEATED BY BURNING WOOD COPPICED ON THE GROUNDS AND HUMAN WASTE IS TRANSFORMED INTO ESSENTIALLY PURE WATER BY MEANS OF A SERIES OF REED BEDS ! LARGE TRACT OF THE SURROUNDING LAND IS BEING TURNED OVER TO ORGANIC FARMING USING 7ELSH BREEDS OF CATTLE AND SHEEP AND THE ESTATES OUTER EDGES ARE RE CREATIONS OF MOORLAND SPRING WOOD PRAIRIE AND NATIVE 7ELSH HABITATS
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! NATURAL TWIN TO THE "OTANIC 'ARDEN CAN BE FOUND lVE MILES NORTHEAST AT !BERGLASNEY DAILY !PRILn3EPT AMnPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM a WWWABERGLASNEYORG HALF A MILE SOUTH OF THE ! NEAR "ROAD /AK 7HILE A PARTLY RUINED MANOR HOUSE DATING BACK TO THE lFTEENTH CENTURY IS THE ESTATES CENTREPIECE IT IS THE STUNNING GARDENS THAT HAVE CAUSED ALL THE EXCITEMENT ,OCALS HAD ALWAYS KNOWN ABOUT THE DECAYING AND ABANDONED HOUSE n WHICH EVEN HAD ,ISTED "UILDING STATUS n BUT IT WAS ONLY IN WHEN THE GRAND EIGHT COLUMNED PORTICO CAME UP FOR SALE AT #HRISTIES FOR a THAT THE AUTHORI TIES TOOK NOTICE 4HE PORTICO WAS WITHDRAWN FROM THE SALE AND REATTACHED TO THE HOUSE AS PART OF THE MAJOR RESTORATION UNDERTAKEN BY THE !BERGLASNEY 4RUST ALTHOUGH THE STABILIZED SHELL OF THE BUILDING SEEMS DESTINED TO PLAY SECOND lDDLE TO ITS ALL BUT UNIQUE SET OF GARDENS /NCE MASSIVELY OVERGROWN THESE MOSTLY SIXTEENTH TO EIGHTEENTH CENTURY WALLED GARDENS HAVE REGAINED MUCH OF THEIR ORIGINAL FORMAL SPLENDOUR WHILE ARCHEOLOGICAL WORK HAS UNCOVERED THEIR HISTORY %SPECIALLY NOTEWORTHY IS THE REPLANTED KITCHEN GARDEN AND WHAT IS THOUGHT TO BE THE ONLY SECULAR CLOISTER GARDEN IN "RITAIN ! WALKWAY LEADS AROUND THE TOP OF THE CLOISTER GIVING ACCESS TO A SET OF SIX 6ICTORIAN AVIARIES AND GREAT VIEWS OVER THE *ACOBEAN 0OOL GARDEN AND THE MATURE WOODLANDS BEYOND 4HE HIGHLIGHT
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4HE STRATEGIC IMPORTANCE OF THE 4YWI 6ALLEY IS UNDERLINED BY THE TUMBLEDOWN RUINS OF $INEFWR #ASTLE UNRESTRICTED ACCESS #!$7 A MILE WEST OF ,LANDEILO REACHED THROUGH THE EXTENSIVE $INEFWR 0ARK A SPECTACULAR ISOLATED SPOT ON A WOODED BLUFF OVER THE RIVER A FEW MILES EAST OF !BERGLASNEY 4HE CASTLE WAS BUILT IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY BY ,ORD 2HYS WHO UNITED THE WARRING 7ELSH PRINCES AGAINST THE .ORMANS "Y THE CASTLE HAD BECOME ILL SUITED TO THE NEEDS OF ,ORD 2HYSS DESCENDANTS WHO ASPIRED TO SOMETHING MORE LUXURIOUS AND EVENTUALLY BUILT A NEW RESIDENCE IN .OW NAMED .EWTON (OUSE MID -ARCH TO /CT -ON 4HURSn3UN AMnPM HOUSE PARK a PARK ONLY a .4 IT WAS GIVEN A NEW LIMESTONE FACADE IN THE S AND IS CURRENTLY BEING RESTORED BY THE .ATIONAL 4RUST AND SHOULD OPEN IN COMPLETE WITH NEW INTERPRETIVE EXHIBITION AND TEAROOM 4HE LOVELY PARK WAS MOSTLY LANDSCAPED IN THE S BY 'EORGE 2HYS WHOSE WORK WAS MUCH ADMIRED AND SLIGHTLY ENHANCED BY #APABILITY "ROWN )T NOW CONTAINS RARE WHITE CATTLE FALLOW DEER AND A WOODLAND NATURE RESERVE
4065)8& 4 58"- & 4
THOUGH IS THE YEW TUNNEL A LINE OF lVE YEWS PLANTED THREE CENTURIES AGO AND TRAINED OVER TO ROOT ON THE FAR SIDE )N THE CENTRAL COURTYARD OF THE MANOR HOUSE WAS GLASSED IN TO FORM AN ATRIUM POPULATED WITH SUBTROPICAL PLANTS n TREE FERNS CYCADS ORCHIDS AND MORE $UBBED A .INFARIUM AFTER GARDENS AT .INFA FORTY MILES OUTSIDE 2OME IT ALREADY MAKES A BEAUTIFUL COUNTERPOINT TO THE OUTDOOR GARDENS AND SHOULD DEVELOP NICELY OVER THE NEXT FEW YEARS
-MBOEFJMP $BSSFH$FOOBO$BTUMFBOE BSPVOE ! MILE EAST OF $INEFWR BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED ON THE EDGE OF THE MAGNIlCENT UPLANDS OF THE "LACK -OUNTAIN THE SMALL RUSTIC TOWN OF ,,!.$%),/ IS A PLACE IN TRANSITION )T REMAINS A QUIET MARKET TOWN BUT HAS RECENTLY BEGUN TO FASHION ITSELF AS AN UPSCALE RURAL RETREAT FOR THE ASPIRATIONAL OF 3WANSEA #ARDIFF AND BEYOND WITH A BOUTIQUE HOTEL SEE BELOW SOME FANCY SHOPS AND GALLERIES AND A HANDFUL OF DELIS CAFÏS AND RESTAURANTS 4HOUGH THERES LITTLE TO ACTUALLY DO IN TOWN THESE ASSETS MAKE IT A GOOD BASE FOR EXPLORING THE REGION ,LANDEILOS FEW STREETS CLUSTER AROUND ITS MAIN THOROUGHFARE 2HOSMAEN 3TREET AND THE PARISH CHURCH OF 3T 4EILO WITH ITS UNUSUAL RAISED GRAVEYARD SPLIT BY THE MAIN ROAD 4HERES A SMALL LOCAL TOURIST OFlCE 4UESn3AT AMnPM IN THE !RTWERKS CRAFT GALLERY BESIDE THE #RESCENT 2OAD CAR PARK OR YOU CAN PICK UP INFORMATION ON ALTERNATIVE LOCAL HAPPENINGS AT THE EXCELLENT &RIENDS OF THE %ARTH RUN 'REEN (OUSE SHOP OPPOSITE THE "ARCLAYS BANK ON 2HOSMAEN 3TREET ,LANDEILOS NEW FOCAL POINT IS ITS HOTEL THE #AWDOR !RMS 2HOSMAEN 3T WWWTHECAWDORCOM n A FORMER COACHING INN THAT HAS BEEN GIVEN A MAJOR POSTMODERN MAKEOVER AND BOASTS CHIC SIMPLY DECORATED ROOMS AND STUNNING ATTIC SUITES )T ALSO HAS AN EXCELLENT SEMI FORMAL RESTAURANT SERVING THREE COURSE LUNCHES a AND DINNERS a WHILE GOOD WINE GUEST ALES AND DEEP LEATHER SOFAS ATTRACT A BROAD CLIENTELE JUST FOR A DRINK )F YOU CANT STRETCH TO THE PRICES AT THE #AWDOR !RMS THERE ARE SEVERAL APPEALING ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS IN THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE SEE BELOW THOUGH NOTHING MUCH IN TOWN 4HERE ARE PLENTY OF PLACES TO EAT THOUGH INCLUDING "ARITA 2HOSMAEN 3T FOR GOOD COFFEE AND CAKES AND 4HE !NGEL )NN
2HOSMAEN 3T FOR MODESTLY PRICED BISTRO MEALS ,LANDEILO IS POSITIVELY STUFFED WITH PUBS TRY THE 7HITE (ORSE A NICE OLD COACHING INN SERV ING BEER FROM THE LOCAL BREWERY $BSSFH$FOOFO$BTUMF 4065)8& 4 58"- & 4
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)SOLATED IN THE RURAL HINTERLAND FOUR MILES SOUTHEAST OF ,LANDEILO IS THE MOST MAGNIlCENTLY SITED CASTLE IN 7ALES #ARREG #ENNEN #ASTLE DAILY MID -ARCH TO /CT AMnPM .OV TO MID -ARCH AMnDUSK a #!$7 WAS CONSTRUCTED ON ITS FEARSOME OUTCROP IN THOUGH 3IR 5RIEN ONE OF +ING !RTHURS KNIGHTS IS SAID TO HAVE BUILT A FORTRESS HERE EARLIER AND STAYED A 7ELSH STRONGHOLD UNTIL IT FELL TO THE %NGLISH IN DURING %DWARD )S lRST INVASION )T REMAINED IN USE UNTIL WHEN IT WAS PARTLY DESTROYED BY THE %ARL OF 0EMBROKE FOR BEING A REBEL BASE 4HE CASTLES MOST STRIKING ASPECT IS ITS VERTIGINOUS LOCATION THREE HUNDRED FEET ABOVE A SHEER DROP INTO THE GREEN VALLEY OF THE #ENNEN 2IVER 4HE CAR PARK AND FARM WITH RARE BREEDS OF COWS AND SHEEP ARE AT THE BOTTOM OF A LONG PATH THAT CLIMBS SHARPLY UPWARDS WITH ASTOUNDING VIEWS TOWARDS THE SEVERE PURPLE LINES OF THE "LACK -OUNTAIN IN UTTER CONTRAST TO THE VELVET GREENERY OF THE 4YWI AND #ENNEN VALLEYS 4HE CASTLE SEEMS IMPENETRABLE ITS CRUMBLING WALLS MERG ING WITH THE LIMESTONE ON WHICH IT DElANTLY SITS 4HE HIGHLIGHTS OF A VISIT ARE THE VIEWS DOWN INTO THE VALLEY AND THE LONG DESCENT INTO A WATERY PITCH BLACK CAVE THAT IS SAID TO HAVE SERVED AS A WELL 4ORCHES ARE ESSENTIAL a RENTAL FROM THE TEAROOM NEAR THE CAR PARK ALTHOUGH ITS WORTH CONTINUING AS FAR AS POSSIBLE AND THEN TURNING THEM OFF TO EXPERIENCE ABSOLUTE DARKNESS 4HE TEAROOM HAS A SUPERB SELECTION OF HOME COOKED 7ELSH DISHES WHILE A STONES THROW AWAY FROM THE CASTLE THERES 0ENHILL WWWPENHILLORGUK A SIMPLE BUT VERY PLEASANT "" .EAR THE VILLAGE OF 42!0 A MILE BELOW THE CASTLE YOULL lND A NICE PUB THE #ENNEN !RMS AND THE 4RAPP !RTS #RAFT #ENTRE -ARCHn#HRISTMAS DAILY EXCEPT -ON AMnPM FREE A FAMILY RUN SHOWCASE FOR LOCAL ARTISANS WHERE IMAGINATIVE TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS COMPLEMENT THE MAIN BUSINESS OF SELLING 5PXBSET-MBOEPWFSZ
4HE RAILWAY AND THE ! HEAD NORTHEAST FROM ,LANDEILO THROUGH A PASTORAL LANDSCAPE IN WHICH BIBLICAL REMINDERS ATTESTING TO FERVENT 7ELSH #HRISTIAN ITY CAN BE SEEN IN THE HAMLETS OF "%4(,%(%- WHERE THE FRIENDLY VILLAGE SHOP AND TEAROOM WILL KEEP YOUR #HRISTMAS CARDS READY TO BE FRANKED WITH THE BLESSED POSTMARK AND 3!,%- AN OTHERWISE NONDESCRIPT PLACE WITH A GOOD "" AND GASTROPUB SEE BELOW 4HESE PLACES LIE A COUPLE OF MILES OFF THE MAIN ROAD SOUTH AND NORTH RESPECTIVELY mANKING ,,!.'!$/' WHICH SITS JUST OFF THE ! AT THE SIX MILE MARK A PRETTY LITTLE VILLAGE BENEATH THE GLOWERING BLUFF OF THE "LACK -OUNTAIN 4HE MASSIVE )RON !GE HILLFORT OF 'ARN 'OCH WHICH RISES UP ABOVE "ETH LEHEM AND SPREADS OVER lFTEEN ACRES IS AS IMPRESSIVE FOR ITS BLEAK ISOLATION AS FOR THE REMAINING EARTHWORKS AND STONE RAMPART !GAINST THE BROODING BACKDROP OF THE "LACK -OUNTAIN THIS AREA IS A MORE DRAMATIC PLACE TO STAY THAN THE 4YWI 6ALLEY 'OOD BETS INCLUDE THE RELAXING #AMOMILE (OUSE 'ORS 2OAD 3ALEM THE COMFY "" ACCOMMODATION AT #YNYLL &ARM a ON THE ! TWO MILES SOUTHEAST OF ,LAN GADOG AND THE IMPOSING GUEST SUITE AT THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY #EFN #ILGWYN WWWPASTUREFARMCOM NEAR 'ARN 'OCH /N THE MAIN ! JUST NORTH OF THE ,LANGADOG TURNING THERES A DECENT CAMPSITE AT !BERMARLAIS #ARAVAN 0ARK WWWUKPARKSCOM CLOSED
$ECn&EB a PER PITCH &OR EATING HEAD TO 3ALEM AND 4HE !NGEL )NN RESTAU RANT FORMERLY A VILLAGE PUB WHICH STILL DOES GREAT BAR MEALS BUT PARTLY TRANSFORMED INTO A GASTROPUB WITH SUPERB IF SLIGHTLY PRICEY MEALS ALL BEAUTIFULLY PREPARED AND PRESENTED
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4WELVE MILES NORTHEAST OF ,LANDEILO THE TOWN OF ,,!.$/6%29 ,LANYMD DYFRI MAKES A NATURAL BASE FOR EXPLORING THE 4YWI 6ALLEY WITH THE BREATHTAK ING COUNTRYSIDE AROUND THE $OLAUCOTHI 'OLD -INE TO THE WEST AND TRANQUIL ,LYN "RIANNE TO THE NORTH 4HE TOWNS ARCHITECTURE AND LAYOUT HAVE CHANGED LITTLE FOR CENTURIES THE MAIN "ROAD 3TREET WIDENING AS IT NEARS THE COBBLED -ARKET 3QUARE WITH ITS CLOCKTOWER 4HIS THOROUGHFARE IS LINED WITH SOLID EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY TOWNHOUSES AND OLDER INNS MUCH AS IT WAS WHEN ITINERANT WRITER 'EORGE "ORROW VISITED IN DURING HIS GRAND TOUR OF 7ALES REMEM BERING IT AS THE hPLEASANTEST LITTLE TOWN IN WHICH ) HAVE HALTED IN THE COURSE OF MY WANDERINGSv ,LANDOVERY RETAINS ITS ANCIENT CATTLE MARKET EVERY OTHER 4UESDAY BUT LIKE SO MANY OTHER MID 7ALES SETTLEMENTS AN INmUX OF .EW !GERS SINCE THE S HAS HAD A DISCERNIBLE EFFECT ON THE TOWN !LTERNATIVE TYPE BOOKSHOPS AND WHOLEFOOD STORES ABOUND /N A GRASSY MOUND ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF "ROAD 3TREET THE SCANT RUINS OF A CASTLE AFFORD lNE VIEWS OVER ,LANDOVERYS HUDDLED GREY BUILDINGS AND THE "RAN 2IVER BRANCHING OFF THE 4YWI OUTSIDE TOWN BUT THE REAL DRAW IS A STUNNING STAINLESS STEEL SCULPTURE OF LOCAL LORD ,LYWELYN AP 'RUFFYDD &YCHAN THE h7ELSH "RAVE HEARTv WHO WAS EXECUTED IN FRONT OF THE %NGLISH KING (ENRY )6 FOR SUPPORTING THE REBEL PRINCE /WAIN 'LYND"R IN !BOVE THE TOURIST OFlCE SEE BELOW THE COMMUNITY RUN ,LANDOVERY (ERIT AGE #ENTRE %ASTERn3EPT DAILY AMnPM /CTn%ASTER -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM DONATION APPRECIATED CONTAINS A lNE SECTION ON THE LEGEND OF THE ,ADY OF THE ,AKE FROM ,LYN Y &AN &ACH THE OUTLAW 4WM 3ION #ATI THE h7ELSH 2OBIN (OODv AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURY VICAR 2HYS 0RICHARD AUTHOR OF #ANWYLL Y #YMRY h4HE 7ELSHMENS #ANDLEv 4HERES ALSO MATERIAL ON THE CATTLE DROVERS AND THEIR "LACK /X BANK WHICH BECAME A PART OF THE PRESENT DAY ,LOYDS43" BANK 1SBDUJDBMJUJFT
4HE TRAIN STATION SITS ON THE MAIN ! JUST BEFORE IT BECOMES "ROAD 3TREET BUSES LEAVE FROM "ROAD 3TREET AND -ARKET 3QUARE /N +INGS 2OAD THE CONTINUATION OF "ROAD 3TREET THE JOINT TOURIST OFlCE AND "RECON "EACONS .ATIONAL 0ARK VISITOR CENTRE %ASTERn3EPT DAILY AMnPM /CTn%ASTER -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM IS WELL STOCKED WITH LEAmETS ON LOCAL WALKS AND NATURAL HISTORY AND HAS AN INTERPRETIVE CENTRE ON THE "LACK -OUNTAIN !LSO ON "ROAD 3TREET YOU CAN BUY LOCAL GUIDES AND BOOKS AT THE /LD 0RINTING /FlCE NEAR THE WAR MEMORIAL OR OBTAIN DETAILS OF ALTERNATIVE EVENTS AT THE )ECHYD $A HEALTH FOOD SHOP 4HE SWANKIEST PLACE TO STAY IS THE COLONNADED #ASTLE (OTEL ON "ROAD 3TREET WWWLLANDOVERYCASTLEHOTELCOUK BUT THERES COSIER ACCOMMODATION ACROSS THE ROAD AT 4HE $ROVERS -ARKET 3QUARE WWWDROVERSLLANDOVERYCOUK AN EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TOWNHOUSE FULL OF ANTIQUE FURNITURE WITH A GUESTS BAR 7ITH YOUR OWN TRANS PORT TWO SUPERB CHOICES ARE THE 'OTHIC STYLED EN SUITE ROOMS AT #WM 2HUDDAN -ANSION CWMRHUDDAN HOTMAILCOM A MILE SOUTH WEST ON THE ! AND THE CHARMING #WMGWYN &ARM ON ,LANGADOG 2OAD
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WWWCWMGWYN HOLIDAYSCOUK A MILE FURTHER ON 4HE NEAREST CAMPSITE IS %RWLON WWWUKPARKSCOM a PER PITCH A MILE EAST OF ,LANDOVERY OFF THE ! %ASILY THE BEST DAYTIME EATING IS AT 4HE +ITCHEN 'ARDEN INSIDE THE #RAFT #ENTRE AT THE CORNER OF +INGS 2OAD AND 3TONE 3TREET 4HE "LUE "ELL PUB (IGH 3T DOES A GOOD CURRY AND VERY REASONABLE STEAKS AND OUTSIDE TOWN THE 2OYAL /AK )NN IN 2HANDIRMWYN SEE OPPOSITE IS WELL WORTH THE TRIP FOR ITS IMAGINATIVE MENU OF NICELY COOKED CLASSICS &OR DRINKING THE ECCENTRIC AND BIZARRELY OLD FASHIONED 2ED ,ION A RED COLONNADED HOUSE NESTLED IN AN EASY TO MISS CORNER AT -ARKET 3QUARE CANT BE BEATEN )F AS OFTEN HAPPENS THE LANDLORD HAS CHOSEN TO CLOSE EARLY TRY THE UPSCALE +INGS (EAD NEARBY 5IF%PMBVDPUIJ(PME.JOF 5BMMFZ"CCFZBOE#SFDIGB 'PSFTU
7EST OF ,LANDOVERY THE COUNTRYSIDE IS BLISSFULLY QUIET WITH A HANDFUL OF MAIN ROADS AND LANES THAT RARELY CARRY MUCH TRAFlC 4HE PRINCIPAL ROUTE OFF THE ! BETWEEN ,LANDEILO AND ,LANDOVERY IS THE ! WHICH HEADS SIX MILES TO THE $OLAUCOTHI 'OLD -INE %ASTERn/CT DAILY AMnPM SITE a 2OMAN 6ICTORIAN UNDERGROUND TOURS a EACH LEVEL ACCESS ,ONG !DIT TOUR a .4 4HIS IS THE ONLY PLACE IN "RITAIN WHERE ITS CERTAIN THAT THE 2OMANS MINED GOLD LAYING ASTOUNDINGLY ADVANCED SYSTEMS TO EXTRACT THE PRECIOUS METAL FROM THE ROCK THE REMAINS OF THEIR WORKINGS n A FEW WATER CHANNELS AND AN OPEN CAST MINE n CAN STILL BE SEEN AROUND THE SITE !FTER THE 2OMANS LEFT IN !$ THE MINE LAY ABANDONED UNTIL WHEN NEW SHAFTS WERE SUNK AND SPORADICALLY EXPLOITED UNTIL 4HE SITE APPEARS MUCH AS IT WOULD HAVE IN THE LATE S AND THERE ARE GOOD DISPLAYS IN THE EXHIBIT ROOM BUT YOULL GET A MUCH BETTER APPRECIATION BY JOINING ONE OF THE HARD HAT UNDERGROUND TOURS DEEP INTO THE WORKINGS AND TRY YOUR HAND AT GOLD PANNING .EAR THE ENTRANCE TO THE MINE IS A STONE MARKED WITH INDENTATIONS SUPPOS EDLY LEFT BY lVE SLEEPING SAINTS WHO RESTED HERE ONE NIGHT 4HE EVENT GIVES ITS NAME TO THE STRAGGLING VILLAGE OF 05-3!).4 &IVE 3AINTS LOCATED A MILE TO THE WEST WHERE YOULL lND PLEASANT FARMHOUSE "" AT $OLAUCOTHI &ARM 4HE "RUNANT !RMS A MILE EAST OF THE GOLD MINE AT #!)/ OFFERS BAGS OF CHARACTER BOARD GAMES AND DEBATES &IVE MILES SOUTH OF 0UMSAINT THE CRUMBLING TWELFTH CENTURY TOWER OF 7ALES ONLY 0REMONSTRATENSIAN ABBEY DOMINATES THE VILLAGE OF 4!,,%9 ALSO HOME TO THE SERENE CHURCH OF 3T -ICHAEL INTACT FROM ITS FOUNDATION IN AND STILL INCLUDING ITS ORIGINAL BOX PEWS 4ALLEYS MORE RECENT CLAIM TO FAME IS AS THE HOME OF 7ALES FAMOUS 4IPI 6ALLEY A HIPPY ENCAMPMENT THAT WAS SET UP IN THE S NEAR #WMDU JUST SOUTH OF THE VILLAGE #ONTROVERSY HAS DOGGED THE PLACE EVER SINCE BUT THESE DAYS THERE SEEMS TO BE A FAIRLY STOIC TRUCE BETWEEN THE LOCALS AND THE TIPI DWELLERS ! FURTHER TEN MILES SOUTHWEST ARE THE TOWERING CONIFERS OF THE "RECHFA &OREST WHERE SOLITUDE IS ASSURED AND THERE ARE MANY lNE WALKS 4HE BEST BASE IS THE UNSPOILT VILLAGE OF "2%#(&! WITH THE GORGEOUS OAK BEAMED ACCOMMO DATION AT 4$ -AWR WWWWALES COUNTRY HOTELCOUK WHICH ALSO SERVES SUPERB MEALS TO GUESTS 'LASFRYN "" WWWGLASFRYNBRECHFACOUK AND A GREAT PUB THE &OREST !RMS 5PXBSET-MZO#SJBOOF
4HE LAND TO THE NORTH OF ,LANDOVERY IS EQUALLY REMOTE AND EVEN MORE SPEC TACULAR WITH WALKS FOLLOWING THE 2IVER 4YWI VALLEY AND OVER THE HILLS !S A
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BASE THERES THE OLD LEAD MINING HAMLET OF 2(!.$)2-79. ABOVE THE WINDING RIVER WHICH HAS SOME OF THE BEST VIEWS HEREABOUTS AND IS ACCES SIBLE BY A DAILY POSTBUS FROM ,LANDOVERY (ERE THE POPULAR 2OYAL /AK )NN WWWRHANDIRMWYNCOM OFFERS GREAT FOOD DRINK AND "" ACCOMMODATION JUST BELOW THE VILLAGE THERES ALSO A RIVERSIDE CAMPSITE CLOSED .OV TO MID -ARCH a PER PERSON ! FEW MILES EAST TOWARDS THE VIADUCT AND TRAIN STATION AT #YNGHORDY THE DELIGHTFUL FARM HOUSE "" ,LANERCHINDDA WWWCAMBRIANWAYCOM IS USED BY MANY PEOPLE WALKING THE #AMBRIAN 7AY SEE P 4HREE MILES BEYOND 2HANDIRMWYN THERES A CAR PARK a AT THE 9STRADF lN CHAPEL FOR THE 230"S $INAS .ATURE 2ESERVE DEEP WITHIN WHICH IS THE REPUTED HIDEOUT CAVE OF 4WM 3ION #ATI SEE P 9OURE DISCOURAGED FROM SEEKING OUT THE BANDITS LAIR LEST YOU DISTURB THE RED KITES WOODPECKERS NUTHATCHES REDSTARTS AND PIPITS BUT EVEN SO THIS IS A DELIGHTFUL SPOT WOODEN WALKWAYS TRAVERSE THE ANCIENT WOODLAND A BURST OF mOWERS BUTTERmIES WATER AND TWISTED TREES /NCE THROUGH YOU CAN WALK ALONG THE BANKS OF THE FAST mOWING 4YWI UP TO ITS CONmUENCE WITH THE 2IVER $OETHIE ! MILE BEYOND $INAS LANES WIDEN FOR THE TRAFlC THAT BUSTLES TOWARDS ,LYN "RIANNE AT WHOSE SOUTHERN END ARE A CAR PARK AND VISITOR FACILITIES #ONSIDER ING THE RESERVOIR WAS ONLY BUILT IN THE S TO SUPPLY 3WANSEA IT HAS FOLDED WELL INTO THE CONTOURS OF THE LAND AND THERE ARE SOME PEACEFUL SHORELINE WALKS 7ALKS BEYOND THE LAKE LINK UP TO ISOLATED YOUTH HOSTEL AND CAMPSITES ALONG THE !BERGWESYN 0ASS SEE P
&REQUENTLY OVERLOOKED IN THE STAMPEDE TOWARDS THE RESORTS OF 0EMBROKESHIRE SOUTHERN #ARMARTHENSHIRE IS A QUIET PART OF THE WORLD WITH FEW OF THE PROBLEMS OF MASS TOURISM SUFFERED BY MORE POPULAR PARTS OF 7ALES )TS COASTLINE IS BROKEN BY THE TRIPLE ESTUARY OF THE 4YWI 4AF AND 'WENDREATH RIVERS AND BETWEEN THE 4YWI AND 4AF IS A KNOTTED LANDSCAPE OF HILLS AND TINY WINDING LANES PENETRATED BY ONE DECENT ROAD THE " WHICH ENDS AT ,LANSTEFFAN WITH ITS RUINED HILLTOP CASTLE /N THE OTHER SIDE OF THE 4AF ESTUARY ,AUGHARNE IS THE SOLE BIG TOURIST ATTRAC TION A PLACE OF PILGRIMAGE FOR $YLAN 4HOMAS LOVERS ! CURIOUS AND INSULAR VILLAGE IT WAS THE LAST HOME OF THE 4HOMASES WHOSE BOATHOUSE HAS BEEN TURNED INTO A LOVING MUSEUM TO THE WRITER AND WHOSE REGULAR DRINKING HOLE IS AS MUCH A PART OF THE PILGRIMAGE AS THE HOUSE "EYOND ,AUGHARNE THE COAST IS FORMED BY A SEEMINGLY ENDLESS SWEEP OF SAND ONCE USED FOR VARIOUS LAND SPEED RECORD ATTEMPTS ORCHESTRATED FROM THE SEASON ALLY BUSY RESORT OF 0ENDINE "ACK ON THE ! 7HITLAND IS AN ARCHITECTURALLY UNREMARKABLE TOWN BUT HISTORICALLY SIGNIlCANT AS THE SITE OF THE lRST PARLIAMENT IN 7ALES 2EGULAR TRAINS CONNECT #ARMARTHEN WITH 7HITLAND AND THE WEST AND BUSES lLL IN THE GAPS WITH A SERVICE FROM #ARMARTHEN AND 3T #LEARS TO ,AUGHARNE AND 0ENDINE !NOTHER SERVICE LEAVES #ARMARTHEN FOR ,LANSTEFFAN
-MBOTUFGGBO 4HE NEGLECTED LOOKING VILLAGE OF ,,!.34%&&!. ON THE 4YWI ESTUARY TEN MILES SOUTHEAST OF #ARMARTHEN IS OVERSHADOWED BY A DRAMATIC RUINED CASTLE FREE ENTRY 4HIS PRIME EXAMPLE OF .ORMAN FORTIlCATIONS WAS BUILT BETWEEN
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THE ELEVENTH AND THIRTEENTH CENTURIES BY THE !NGLO .ORMAN DE #AMILLE FAMILY 4HE ENTRANCE USED TODAY IS NOT THE ORIGINAL GATEHOUSE WHICH WAS CONVERTED INTO LIVING QUARTERS IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY ITS BRICKED UP ENTRANCE IS OBVI OUS FROM OUTSIDE )N BOTH GATEHOUSES HOWEVER THE PORTCULLIS AND MURDER HOLES CAN STILL BE SEEN &ROM ATOP THE TOWERS ITS EASY TO APPRECIATE THE SITES DEFENSIVE POSITION WITH FAR REACHING VIEWS IN ALL DIRECTIONS LONG BEFORE THE PRESENT CASTLE THERE WAS AN )RON !GE PROMONTORY FORT KNOWN TO HAVE BEEN OCCUPIED FROM "# 2ETURNING FROM THE CASTLE TO WHERE THE PATH DOUBLES BACK TO THE RIGHT NEAR A HOUSE CONTINUE STRAIGHT AHEAD PAST THE HOUSE TO 0ARC 'LAS FORMERLY A MILK AND RUM TAVERN AND LEFT DOWN THE LANE TOWARDS THE BEACH 4HE DOOR IN THE WALL ON THE RIGHT CONCEALS 3T !NTHONYS 7ELL "WTHYN 3ANT !NTWN WITH ITS SUPPOSED POWERS OF HEALING FOR LOVESICKNESS !ROUND THE 4AF ESTUARY WEST OF ,LANSTEFFAN ARE NUMEROUS ANCIENT STANDING STONES AND A COUPLE OF RUINED CHURCHES WITH SOME AWESOME TOMBS AT ,LAN DEILO !BERCYWYN AND 4REFENTY EITHER SIDE OF THE RIVER 4HE STONES AND THE CHURCHES WERE ALL PART OF A LONG ESTABLISHED PILGRIMS ROUTE TO WEST 7ALES AND 3T $AVIDS IN PARTICULAR ,LANSTEFFAN IS PRETTY ENOUGH TO JUSTIFY AN OVERNIGHT STAY PERHAPS AT /N THE 3EAFRONT A DECENT ENOUGH "" ON 4HE 'REEN WWW LLANSTEFFANNETACCOMMODATION 4WO MILES BACK TOWARDS #ARMARTHEN THE 0ANTYRATHRO #OUNTRY )NN WWWPANTYRATHROCOUNTRYINN COUK a PER BUNK OFFERS SLIGHTLY POKEY HOSTEL STYLE ACCOMMODATION BUT HAS ITS OWN BAR AND -EXICAN RESTAURANT &OR SNACKS AND 7ELSH TEAS TRY 4HE "EACH 3HOP BY THE BEACHSIDE CAR PARK OR FOR MEALS AND REAL ALES HEAD TO THE 3TICKS )NN ON ,LANSTEFFANS -AIN 3TREET WHICH HAS A BEER GARDEN 4HE NEARBY 9R (EN $AFARN SERVES ROBUST FOOD n INCLUD ING EXCELLENT lSH n AT MODERATE TO HIGH PRICES
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4HE TRAIN STATION IS AT THE WESTERN END OF THE TOWN CENTRE AT THE BOTTOM OF 7ARREN 3TREET 3OME BUSES STOP AT 3OUTH 0ARADE AT THE TOP OF 4RAFALGAR 2OAD ALTHOUGH MOST INCLUDING .ATIONAL %XPRESS COACHES CALL AT THE BUS SHELTER ON 5PPER 0ARK 2OAD JUST ALONG FROM THE TOURIST OFlCE DAILY *ULY !UG AMn PM REST OF YEAR AMnPM TENBYTIC PEMBROKESHIRE GOVUK ! NICE WAY TO EXPLORE THE PLACE IS TO JOIN -ARION $AVIES FOR HER 'HOST 7ALK OF 4ENBY MID *UNE TO EARLY 3EPT -ONn3AT a RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED WHICH LEAVES FROM THE ,IFEBOAT 4AVERN IN 4UDOR 3QUARE AT PM AND SPENDS AN HOUR AND A HALF EXPLORING THE TOWNS PAST AND THE PEOPLE WHO INHABITED IT 3HE ALSO LEADS OTHER THEMED WALKS AND OFFERS OUT OF SEASON SPECIALS n SEE THE NOTICES AT THE TOURIST OFlCE OR CONTACT HER DIRECTLY &OR MORE ESOTERIC INFORMATION INCLUDING ADS FOR GIGS AND FESTIVALS CHECK OUT %QUINOX ON 3T *ULIAN 3TREET ! WORD OF WARNING TO MOTORISTS CARS ARE BANNED IN CENTRAL 4ENBY THROUGH OUT *ULY AND !UGUST DAILY AMnPM &REE SHUTTLE BUSES RUN FROM THE 3ALTERNS AND .ORTH "EACH CAR PARKS BOTH PAY AND DISPLAY WHICH ARE MARKED ON OUR TOWN MAP "DDPNNPEBUJPO
!S A MAJOR RESORT 4ENBY HAS DOZENS OF HOTELS AND GUESTHOUSES ALL PRESSED FROM MUCH THE SAME MOULD 0RICES ARE A LITTLE HIGHER THAN ELSEWHERE IN WEST 7ALES AND IN HIGH SUMMER THE PLACE IS STILL FULL TO BURSTING POINT BUT AT OTHER TIMES ITS NOT HARD TO lND DECENT REASONABLE ACCOMMODATION )F YOU DONT lND ANYTHING SUITABLE CONSIDER STAYING NEARBY IN 3AUNDERSFOOT -ANORBIER OR 3T &LORENCE 4HERE ARE CARAVAN SITES ALL AROUND 4ENBY MOST TAKE TENTS ESPECIALLY THOSE AROUND THE VILLAGE OF .EW (EDGES AROUND A MILE AND A HALF NORTH ON THE ! )N THE PEAK SUMMER SEASON YOULL ALSO lND TAP IN A lELD SITES WHICH SPRING UP FOR A COUPLE OF MONTHS )PUFMTBOEHVFTUIPVTFT
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4ENBYS OLD CENTRE IS TRIANGULAR WITH TWO SIDES FORMED BY THE COAST MEETING AT #ASTLE (ILL AND THE THIRD BY THE REMAINING TOWN WALLS 3OUTH 0ARADE RUNS ALONGSIDE THE MASSIVE TWENTY FOOT HIGH WALL lRST BUILT IN THE LATE THIRTEENTH CENTURY AND MASSIVELY STRENGTHENED IN BY *ASPER 4UDOR %ARL OF 0EMBROKE AND UNCLE OF THE FUTURE KING (ENRY 6)) )T WAS FURTHER FORTIlED IN THE S WHEN 4ENBY WAS REGARDED AS A LIKELY TARGET FOR THE 3PANISH !RMADA 4HE ONLY TOWN GATE STILL STANDING IS &IVE !RCHES A SEMICIRCULAR BARBICAN USED AS AN EVERYDAY ENTRANCE BY CITIZENS AND PEACETIME VISITORS WITH HIDDEN LOOKOUTS AND ACUTE ANGLES TO SURPRISE INVADERS 4HE WALL CONTINUES SOUTH TO THE %SPLA NADE WITH A LONG LINE OF SNOOTY HOTELS FACING OUT OVER THE SMARTER AND FAR LESS COMMERCIALIZED 3OUTH "EACH 4HE CENTRES FOCAL POINT IS THE FOOT SPIRE OF THE LARGELY lFTEENTH CENTURY 3T -ARYS CHURCH BETWEEN 4UDOR 3QUARE AND 3T 'EORGES 3TREET )TS LIGHT INTERIOR SHOWS THE ELABORATE CEILING BOSSES IN THE CHANCEL TO GOOD EFFECT WHILE lFTEENTH CENTURY TOMBS ATTEST TO 4ENBYS MERCANTILE TRADITION /N THE WESTERN SIDE OF 3T -ARYS RUNS 5PPER &ROG 3TREET REPLETE WITH CRAFT SHOPS AND AN ARCADED INDOOR MARKET CONTAINING CRAFT STALLS AND GIFT SHOPS /THERWISE ITS A PLEASURE TO EXPLORE THE ALLEYWAYS AND STEPS IN THE OLD TOWN ESPECIALLY THE MEDIEVAL LANES IN THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY OF THE CHURCH $UE EAST 1UAY (ILL RUNS DOWN TOWARDS THE HARBOUR PAST SOME OF 4ENBYS OLDEST DWELLINGS INCLUDING A 4UDOR -ERCHANTS (OUSE !PRILn/CT DAILY EXCEPT 3AT AMnPM a .4 BUILT IN THE LATE lFTEENTH CENTURY WHEN 4ENBY WAS SECOND ONLY TO "RISTOL AS A WEST COAST PORT 4HE COMPACT HOUSE WITH ITS &LEM ISH STYLE CHIMNEYPIECES IS ON THREE mOORS PACKED WITH FURNITURE EITHER SEVEN TEENTH AND EIGHTEENTH CENTURY ORIGINALS OR 4UDOR REPRO MADE TRADITIONALLY WITHOUT GLUE OR NAILS NOTICE ESPECIALLY THE SUPERB INLAID MARRIAGE CHEST #RACKWELL AND "RIDGE STREETS RUN DOWN TO THE HARBOUR WHICH CAN LOOK IDYLLIC IF ITS NOT TOO CROWDED 3HELTERED BY THE CURVING HEADLAND AND FRINGED BY PASTEL HUED 'EORGIAN AND 6ICTORIAN HOUSES ITS A GREAT PLACE TO STROLL ON A WARM EVENING "Y DAY ITS THE DEPARTURE POINT FOR NUMEROUS EXCURSION BOATS ESPECIALLY FOR THE SHORT TRIP TO #ALDEY )SLAND SEE BELOW !BOVE THE HARBOUR IS THE HEADLAND AND #ASTLE (ILL ITS GRASSY SLOPES RIFE WITH 6ICTORIANA IN THE FORM OF HUGE mOWERBEDS INCLUDING AN INDIGENOUS SMALL DAFFODIL IN SPRING TIME ORNATE BENCHES A BANDSTAND AND A POMPOUS MEMORIAL TO 0RINCE !LBERT n UPSTAGING THE RUINS OF A .ORMAN CASTLE MAINLY NOTABLE FOR ITS GATEHOUSE AND THE ALL ROUND VIEW FROM ITS WINDSWEPT TOWER 4HE NEARBY 4ENBY -USEUM !RT 'ALLERY %ASTERn/CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn%ASTER -ONn&RI AMnPM a PRESENTS A MODERATELY INTERESTING TRAWL THROUGH TOPICS OF LOCAL INTEREST NOTABLY A BROAD HISTORY OF THE TOWN AND HARBOUR SINCE THE TENTH CENTURY WITH SCALE MODELS AND ASSORTED ARTEFACTS FROM VARIOUS EXCAVATIONS 4HE MUSEUMS GEOLOGY SECTION INCLUDES A lVE FOOT MAMMOTH TUSK FOUND NEAR -ILFORD (AVEN
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ANCIENT AXES AND A WOMANS SKULL DATED FROM AROUND "# 4HE REAL ATTRAC TION THOUGH IS THE 7ILFRED (ARRISON 'ALLERY FEATURING WORK BY !UGUSTUS AND 'WEN *OHN AND LOCALLY BORN .INA (AMNET #ALDEY )SLAND ALSO GETS A LOOK IN WITH MATERIAL ON ITS /GHAM #ROSS SEE BELOW &ROM ATOP #ASTLE (ILL THERE ARE GREAT VIEWS OVER THE QUIETER 3OUTH "EACH WHERE THE SEA RECEDES SO FAR AT LOW TIDE THAT THE TINY 3T #ATHERINES )SLAND NO ACCESS BECOMES FULLY BEACHED UNTIL THE WATER RETURNS TO CUT IT OFF AT HIGH TIDE &ROM A DISTANCE YOU CAN SEE THE REMAINS OF THE FORT BUILT IN ONE OF 0ALM ERSTONS &OLLIES A CHAIN OF SIMILAR DEFENCES CONSTRUCTED BY ,ORD 0ALMERSTON TO PROTECT THE SOUTH COAST FROM POTENTIAL &RENCH ATTACK
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,OOMING LARGE ON THE HORIZON A FEW MILES OFFSHORE OF 4ENBYS %SPLANADE #ALDEY )SLAND 9NYS 0YR WAS lRST SETTLED BY #ELTIC MONKS IN THE SIXTH CENTURY PERHAPS AS AN OFFSHOOT OF 3T )LLTUDS MONASTERY AT ,LANTWIT -AJOR 4HE EXACT DURATION OF THIS SETTLEMENT IS UNCLEAR ALTHOUGH THE NINTH CENTURY ,ATIN INSCRIP TION ON THE ISLANDS SIXTH CENTURY /GHAM #ROSS SEE BELOW INDICATES THAT THE COMMUNITY WAS STILL THRIVING THEN .OTHING MORE IS KNOWN UNTIL WHEN %NGLISH KING (ENRY ) BESTOWED IT ON A .ORMAN NOBLE 2OBERT &ITZMARTIN WHO GAVE IT TO HIS OWN MOTHER )N IT WAS GIVEN TO THE "ENEDICTINE MONKS OF 3T $OGMAELS AT #ARDIGAN WHO FOUNDED THEIR PRIORY HERE 5PON THE DISSOLUTION OF THE MONASTERIES IN THE "ENEDICTINES LEFT AND THE ISLAND WAS BOUGHT AND SOLD WILLY NILLY UNTIL WHEN IT WAS AGAIN SOLD TO A "ENEDICTINE MONASTIC ORDER AND SUBSEQUENTLY TO 2EFORMED #ISTERCIANS 4HE ISLAND HAS BEEN A MONAS TIC HOME ALMOST CONSTANTLY EVER SINCE WITH AROUND TWENTY MONKS CURRENTLY IN RESIDENCE "OATS LEAVE 4ENBY (ARBOUR OR #ASTLE "EACH WHEN THE TIDE IS OUT EVERY TWENTY MINUTES IN SEASON %ASTERn/CT -ONn&RI AMnPM MID -AY TO MID 3EPT ALSO 3AT SAME HOURS a RETURN WWWCALDEY ISLANDCOUK FOR THE TWENTY MINUTE JOURNEY TO THE ISLAND 4ICKETS NOT FOR ANY SPECIlC SAILING ARE SOLD AT THE KIOSK IN #ASTLE 3QUARE DIRECTLY ABOVE THE HARBOUR /N LANDING AT #ALDEYS JETTY A SHORT WALK LEADS THROUGH THE WOODS TO THE ISLANDS MAIN SETTLEMENT "ESIDES A TINY POST OFlCE AND POPULAR TEAROOM THERES A PERFUME SHOP SELLING THE HERBAL FRAGRANCES DISTILLED BY THE MONKS FROM #ALDEYS ABUNDANT mORA 4HE NARROW ROAD TO THE LEFT LEADS DOWN TO THE HEAVILY RESTORED CHAPEL OF 3T $AVID WHOSE MOST IMPRESSIVE FEATURE IS THE ROUND ARCHED .ORMAN DOOR ! LANE LEADS SOUTH FROM THE VILLAGE TO THE OLD PRIORY ABANDONED IN AND RESTORED AT THE BEGINNING OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY )TS CENTREPIECE IS THE TWELFTH CENTURY 3T )LLTUDS CHURCH DISTINGUISHED BY ITS CURIOUSLY BLUNT AND LEANING STEEPLE AND ITS OWNERSHIP OF ONE OF THE MOST SIGNIlCANT PRE .ORMAN lNDS IN 7ALES 4HE SANDSTONE /GHAM #ROSS WITH AN INSCRIPTION FROM THE SIXTH CENTURY ADDED TO IN ,ATIN DURING THE NINTH WAS DISCOVERED UNDER THE STAINED GLASS WINDOW ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE NAVE 4HE CHURCHS ROUGH mOORING IS LARGELY COMPRISED OF PEBBLES FROM THE ISLANDS BEACHES 4HE LANE CONTINUES SOUTH FROM THE SITE CLIMBING UP TO THE GLEAMING WHITE ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE BUILT IN 6IEWS FROM HERE ARE MEMORABLE
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4HE .EW )NN NEXT TO THE BEACH IS AN ENJOYABLE PLACE TO EAT AND DRINK IF GENER ALLY PACKED IN SUMMER 4HE COAST BETWEEN !MROTH AND 4ENBY IS ONE LONG LINE OF CARAVAN PARKS BROKEN ONLY BY THE PICTURESQUE HARBOUR OF 3!5.$%23&//4 BUILT ORIGINALLY FOR THE EXPORT OF LOCAL COAL AND ANTHRACITE 4HE TOWN HAS BEEN ATTRACTING VISITORS FOR CENTURIES AND IS A LIVELY GOOD NATURED PLACE NOW ALL THE INDUSTRY HAS FOLDED THE HARBOUR AND THE WIDE YAWN OF SAND ARE USED PURELY FOR RECREATIONAL PURPOSES WITH A PREDICTABLE CLUTCH OF CAFÏS TACKY SHOPS AND BOISTEROUS FUN PUBS 3AUNDERSFOOTS TRAIN STATION IS LOCATED OVER A MILE NORTHWEST UP 4HE 2IDGE WAY FROM THE HARBOURSIDE TOURIST OFlCE %ASTERn/CT DAILY AMnPM PLUS WINTER WEEKENDS AM PM )F YOU WANT TO STAY IN THE VILLAGE TRY THE LOVELY #LIFF (OUSE 7OGAN 4ERRACE WHICH HAS GREAT SEA VIEWS OR 6ALLEY &ARM ON 6ALLEY 2OAD ABOUT HALF A MILE TOWARDS THE TRAIN STATION FROM THE HARBOUR (IGH ON THE HILL OVER LOOKING THE BEACH THE CHIC 3T "RIDES (OTEL 3T "RIDES (ILL WWWSTBRIDESHOTELCOM RANKS AS ONE OF 0EMBROKESHIRES lNEST HOTELS RECENTLY REMODELLED ALONG MODERN LINES WITH 7ELSH ART IN THE PUBLIC SPACES AND AN ELEGANT RESTAURANT 4HERES HANDY CAMPING A MILE SOUTH AT 4REVAYNE &ARM SEE P 3AUNDERSFOOT HAS PLENTY OF PLACES TO EAT THE BEST BETS ARE THE CHARMING /LD #HEMIST )NN ON 4HE 3TRAND RIGHT BY THE BEACH AND THE %L 0UERTO TAPAS BAR ON 7OGAN 4ERRACE *UST SOUTH OF TOWN THE RESTAURANT AT THE 3WALLOW 4REE 'ARDENS CARAVAN PARK IS A GLORIOUS SURPRISE OFFERING IMAGINATIVE FRESH DISHES WITH STYLISH TWISTS ! MILE AND A HALF NORTH OF 3AUNDERSFOOT TOWARDS !MROTH THE THOROUGHLY ENJOYABLE 7ISEMANS "RIDGE )NN IS A BEACHSIDE PUB THATS GOOD FOR A DRINK AND A MEAL
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4HE SOUTHERN ZIGZAG OF COAST THAT DARTS WEST FROM 4ENBY IS A STRANGE MIX OF CARA VAN PARKS AND -INISTRY OF $EFENCE SHOOTING RANGES ABOVE SOME SPECTACULARLY BEAUTIFUL BAYS AND GULL COVERED CLIFFS &OR #OAST 0ATH WALKERS IT IS CONSTANTLY BEGUILING BUT DRIVERS WILL lND THEMSELVES FOREVER DUCKING INLAND THEN DOWN NARROW LANES TO GET TO THE NEXT BAY &ROM 4ENBY THE ! PASSES THROUGH 0ENALLY LITTLE MORE THAN AN EXTENDED SUBURB OF THE TOWN BEFORE DELVING DOWN PAST THE ,YDSTEP (AVEN BEACH ! ROAD DIPS SOUTH HERE PAST 3KRINKLE (AVEN AND INTO THE WINDING STREETS OF -ANORBIER WHERE THE GHOSTLY CASTLE SITS ABOVE A SMALL BAY 4HREE MILES INLAND FROM HERE IS THE QUINTESSENTIALLY PRETTY VILLAGE OF 3T &LORENCE ITS NARROW LANES CROWNED BY A PROFUSION OF &LEMISH CHIMNEYS 4HE COAST NIPS AND TUCKS IN PAST SOME EXCELLENT AND COMPARATIVELY QUIET BEACHES TO THE .ATIONAL 4RUSTS 3TACKPOLE %STATE WHERE THE MAIN ATTRACTIONS ARE DIMINUTIVE 3TACKPOLE 1UAY THE BEAUTIFUL SANDY "ARAFUNDLE "AY AND THE PICTURESQUE VILLAGE OF "OSHERSTON AND ITS LILY LAKES 4RAVELLING WEST THE lRST OF THE AREAS MANY -/$ ARTILLERY RANGES LIES BETWEEN "OSHERSTON AND THE COAST AND YOU HAVE TO CROSS IT IN ORDER TO SEE THE REMARKABLE AND ANCIENT 3T 'OVANS CHAPEL SQUEEZED INTO A ROCK CLEFT ABOVE THE CRASHING WAVES /N FOOT YOU CAN GET CLOSER TO THE BEST OF THE SCENERY BY WAY OF A FOUR MILE SECTION OF THE 0EMBROKESHIRE #OAST 0ATH WALKING WEST AND BRUSHING ALONG THE TOP OF SOME OF 7ALES MOST DRAMATIC CLIFF SIDE SCENERY INCLUDING 3TACK 2OCKS AND LIMESTONE ARCH THAT MARK THE LAST POINT OF ACCESS ON THIS PART OF THE COAST !LL
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4065)8& 4 58"- & 4
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1FOBMMZ .BOPSCJFSBOE4U'MPSFODF ! MILE SOUTHWEST OF 4ENBY 3OUTH "EACH MERGES WITH THE WIDE AND SUNNY SPRAWL OF SAND AT 0%.!,,9 AN OTHERWISE UNREMARKABLE DORMITORY VILLAGE &ROM HERE THE #OAST 0ATH HUGS THE CLIFFTOP FOR TWO MILES BEFORE REACHING THE GLORIOUS PRIVATELY OWNED BEACH AT THE ACRE HEADLAND OF ,YDSTEP (AVEN ITS A BEAUTIFUL SPOT WITH LIMESTONE CAVERNS TO EXPLORE IN THE CRAGGY ,YDSTEP 0OINT AND WORTH THE NOMINAL ENTRANCE FEE !LTHOUGH SOME OF THE CAVERNS HERE ARE ONLY ACCESSIBLE AT LOW TIDE THE 3MUGGLERS #AVE IS SAFE AT ALL TIMES ! MILE FURTHER WEST IS THE COVE OF 3KRINKLE (AVEN REACHED VIA STEEP STEPS FROM THE CAR PARK AT THE END OF THE LITTLE LANE OFF THE -ANORBIER ROAD !BOVE THE BEACH IS THE EXCELLENT -ANORBIER 9(! HOSTEL SEE 4ENBY P .BOPSCJFS
4HE NEXT PART OF THE #OAST 0ATH VEERS INLAND TO AVOID THE ARTILLERY RANGE ON THE LOVELY OUTCROP OF /LD #ASTLE (EAD THEN LEADS STRAIGHT INTO THE QUAINT VILLAGE OF -!./2")%2 -AENORB$R PRONOUNCED hMANNER BEERv BIRTHPLACE IN OF 'IRALDUS #AMBRENSIS 'ERALD OF 7ALES SEE P WHO DESCRIBED THE CASTLE HERE AS hEXCELLENTLY WELL DEFENDED BY TURRETS AND BULWARKS AND x SITUATED ON THE SUMMIT OF A HILL EXTENDING ON THE WESTERN SIDE TOWARDS THE SEAv &OUNDED IN THE EARLY TWELFTH CENTURY AS A BARONIAL RESIDENCE THE CASTLE %ASTERn3EPT DAILY AMnPM a SITS ABOVE THE VILLAGE AND ITS BEACH ON A HILL OF WILD GORSE 4HE .ORMAN WALLS ARE VERY WELL PRESERVED SURROUND ING A GRASS COURTYARD IN WHICH THE EXTENSIVE REMAINS OF THE CASTLES CHAPEL AND STATEROOMS JOSTLE FOR POSITION WITH THE NINETEENTH CENTURY DOMESTIC RESIDENCE 6IEWS FROM THE RAMPARTS ARE WONDERFUL TAKING IN THE CORRUGATED COASTLINE BUSHY DUNES DEEP GREEN lELDS AND SMOKING CHIMNEYS OF THE TINTED VILLAGE HOUSES )N THE WALLS AND BUILDINGS ARE A WARREN OF DARK PASSAGEWAYS TO EXPLORE OCCASIONALLY OPENING OUT INTO LITTLE CELLS POPULATED BY LACKLUSTRE WAX lGURES PURPORTING TO ILLUSTRATE THE CASTLES HISTORY 0RIME POSITION GOES TO A WAXWORK OF 'ERALD HIMSELF 4HE LANE BELOW THE CASTLE LEADS PAST THE CURIOUS ELONGATED TOWER OF 3T *AMES #HURCH A .ORMAN STRUCTURE WHOSE ROUGH STONEWORK HAS RECENTLY BEEN RENDERED WITH A hBUTTERMILK LIMEWASHv TO MIMIC HOW THE WHOLE CHURCH WOULD APPARENTLY ONCE HAVE LOOKED )T IS A STRIKING SIGHT BUT NOT UNIVERSALLY POPULAR "ELOW THE CHURCH A SANDY BREAK IN THE RED SANDSTONE CLIFFS REVEALS -ANORBIERS SHELL SHAPED COVE &OR A MORE SECLUDED BATHE FOLLOW THE PATH ON THE LEFT OF THE BEACH AS YOU FACE THE SEA OVER THE HEADLAND CALLED THE 0RIESTS .OSE PAST A .EOLITHIC CROMLECH BURIAL CHAMBER KNOWN AS THE +INGS 1UOIT AND ROUND FOR JUST OVER HALF A MILE TO THE STEEP STEPS DOWN TO OFTEN DESERTED 0RECIPE "EACH !T HIGH TIDE THE BEACH IS ENTIRELY mOODED SO CHECK TIMES CAREFULLY )N -ANORBIER YOULL lND ACCOMMODATION AT THE SMART COMFY NON SMOK ING /LD 6ICARAGE THE BEAUTIFULLY SITED #ASTLEMEAD (OTEL WWWCASTLEMEADHOTELCOM AND AT THE 0ARK &ARM CAMPSITE CLOSED .OVn&EB a PER PERSON A MILE INLAND ON THE NORTHERN SIDE OF THE VILLAGE JUST OFF THE " TOWARDS THE TRAIN STATION BUT STILL WITHIN STAGGERING DISTANCE OF THE #ASTLE )NN IN -ANORBIER
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/NE OF THE BEST STARTING POINTS FOR WALKS ALONG THE BREATHTAKING CLIFFTOPS IS THE .ATIONAL 4RUSTS 3TACKPOLE %STATE WHICH ENCOMPASSES A COUPLE OF MILES OF COAST AND SOME BEAUTIFUL WOODS AND WATERWAYS INLAND 2OAD ACCESS IS AT TWO MAIN POINTS THE WESTERNMOST BEING THE ROCKY HARBOUR OF 3TACKPOLE 1UAY PARKING a )T IS ONE OF THE SMALLEST HARBOURS YOULL lND ANYWHERE WITH BARELY ENOUGH ROOM FOR TWO BOATS BETWEEN ITS SLABS OF STRATIlED LIMESTONE )T IS A GORGEOUS SPOT WITH THE ADDED BONUS OF THE "OATHOUSE 4EAROOM WHERE DELICIOUS LUNCHES ARE SERVED IN A SHELTERED SUNNY COURTYARD ! HALF MILE WALK BRINGS YOU TO "ARAFUNDLE "AY WHICH IS INACCESSIBLE BY CAR AND ONE OF THE lNEST BEACHES IN 0EMBROKESHIRE WITH CLEAR WATER AND A SOFT BEACH FRINGED BY WOODED CLIFFS 3OUTH OF THE BEACH IS A SPECTACULAR STRETCH OF THE #OAST 0ATH LEADING TO 3TACKPOLE (EAD A TUFTED PLATEAU ON CRAGGY ARCHES JUTTING INTO THE SEA 4HE 3TACKPOLE )NN WWWSTACKPOLEINNCOUK NEARBY DOES SUPERB PUB MEALS WITH STRAIGHTFORWARD LUNCHES an AND MORE ELABO RATE DINNERS MAINS an
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4HREE MILES NORTH OF -ANORBIER IS THE DELIGHTFUL LITTLE VILLAGE OF 34 &,/2%.#% WHOSE WHITEWASHED STONE COTTAGES MANY WITH THEIR ORIGINAL MEDIEVAL &LEMISH CHIMNEYSTACKS HUDDLE AROUND TINY LANES 3T &LORENCE WAS ONCE AN IMPORTANT PORT THOUGH ITS INLET HAS LONG SINCE RECEDED LEAVING A LOVELY WALK BESIDE THE USUALLY DRY BED OF 2ITEC STREAM 4HE BEST PLACE TO STAY IS THE 'EORGIAN %LMGROVE #OUNTRY (OUSE WWWELMGROVECOUNTRYHOUSECOUK WITH COMFORTABLE ROOMS A TENNIS COURT AND A CROQUET LAWN %LMGROVE ALSO SERVES MEALS WHILE "RAMLEYS 4EAROOM AT THE BACK OF THE VILLAGE GARDEN CENTRE DOES CRACKING 3UNDAY LUNCHES AND HOME COOKED DAYTIME MEALS THE REST OF THE WEEK 4HE 3UN )NN IS THE PICK OF THE TWO PUBS AGAIN SERVING WELL PREPARED MEALS
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4HE PATH CONTINUES AROUND THE COAST THROUGH THE DUNES OF 3TACKPOLE 7ARREN TO "2/!$ (!6%. n THE NEXT SPOT ON THE COAST ACCESSIBLE BY CAR n WHERE A NICE SMALL BEACH OVERLOOKS SEVERAL ROCKY ISLETS MANAGED BY THE .ATIONAL 4RUST "ASING YOURSELF HERE GIVES GOOD ACCESS INLAND TO THE NEARBY "OSHERSTON ,ILY 0ONDS FREE THREE REED FRINGED lNGERS OF WATER CREATED IN THE LATE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY FOR COARSE lSHING AND NOW BEAUTIFULLY LANDSCAPED 4HOUGH THE LILIES DONT CARPET ITS SURFACE THE WAY THEY ONCE DID THE WESTERNMOST LAKE REMAINS THE PRETTIEST ESPECIALLY IN LATE SPRING AND EARLY SUMMER WHEN THE mOWERS ARE IN FULL BLOOM 9OU CAN STILL lSH HERE WITH A PERMIT a A DAY CLOSED MID -ARCH TO MID *UNE FROM 9E /LDE 7ORLDE #AFÏ A HUNDRED YARDS AWAY IN THE VILLAGE OF "/3(%234/. &ROM "OSHERSTON ITS A MILE TO THE COAST ACROSS THE -/$ TRAINING GROUNDS PEPPERED WITH WARNING SIGNS AND ROAD BARRIERS THAT ARE ALMOST ALWAYS OPEN &IRING ORDERS ARE POSTED OUTSIDE 9E /LDE 7ORLDE #AFÏ #ONTINUE DOWN THE LANE THROUGH A SERIES OF GATES AND YOULL REACH A SPOT OVERLOOKING THE CLIFFS WHERE 3T 'OVANS CHAPEL IS WEDGED 4HIS TINY GREY STRUCTURE IS AT LEAST EIGHT HUNDRED AND POSSIBLY AS MUCH AS FOURTEEN HUNDRED YEARS OLD ,EGEND HAS IT THAT 3T 'OVAN CHOSE THIS SPOT TO BE BURIED AFTER HOODLUMS ATTACKED HIM ON THE CLIFFTOP AND THE CLIFFS OPENED UP AND FOLDED GENTLY AROUND HIM SAVING HIM FROM CERTAIN DEATH 3TEPS DESCEND INTO THE SANDY mOORED CHAPEL WITH ITS SIMPLE STONE ALTAR AND THENCE TO A SMALL CELL HEWN FROM THE ROCK CONTAINING THE lSSURE THAT REPUTEDLY SHELTERED 'OVAN 9OU CAN FOLLOW THEM ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE
SPUME mECKED SEA FOR A MAGNIlCENT CLOSE UP VIEW OF THE PRECARIOUS CRAGS CAVES AND ARCHES !CCOMMODATION IS AVAILABLE AT THE RECENTLY REFURBISHED 3T 'OVANS #OUNTRY )NN IN "OSHERSTON AN ENJOYABLE PLACE WHICH CATERS MOSTLY TO ROCK CLIMBERS AND SERVES MOUNTAINS OF INEXPENSIVE FOOD INCLUDING GOOD CURRIES PLUS A RANGE OF REAL ALES 4065)8& 4 58"- & 4
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!LL THE LAND BEYOND THE CHAPEL IS KNOWN AS 2ANGE 7EST LITTERED WITH DUGOUTS ABANDONED SHELLS AND TANKS AND APART FROM THE NARROW CLIFFTOP STRIP ON WHICH THE #OAST 0ATH RUNS ENTIRELY OUT OF BOUNDS 4HE PATH FOLLOWS THE TOP OF THE CLIFFS WEST FOR FOUR MILES PAST A STRIKING CLEFT KNOWN AS (UNTSMANS ,EAP AND TWO ISOLATED BEACHES AT "ULLSLAUGHTER AND &LIMSTON "AY TO 3TACK 2OCKS 4HE ONLY VEHICLE ACCESS TO THE COAST IS AT THE HAMLET OF -ERRION ON THE " FROM WHERE A LANE GENERALLY OPEN -ONn&RI AMnPM AND ALL DAY 3AT 3UN FOR DETAILS CALL RUNS DOWN TO 3TACK 2OCKS PAST THE MOURNFUL LITTLE CHAPEL AT &,)-34/. A HAMLET FORCIBLY ABANDONED TO THE ARMY 3TACK 2OCKS JUT OUT OF THE SEA HERE LIKE A SERIES OF TALL LICHEN SPATTERED STEP PING STONES ! HUNDRED YARDS FURTHER WEST AS FAR AS YOURE ALLOWED TO GO A GRACEFUL LIMESTONE ARCH RISES FROM A WAVE mATTENED ROCK PLATFORM KNOWN AS THE 'REEN "RIDGE OF 7ALES /N A QUIET DAY THE ONLY COMPANY YOU WILL HAVE ARE THE SHRIEKING GULLS GUILLEMOTS AND KITTIWAKES SWOOPING TO THEIR PERCHES ON THE LIMESTONE LEDGES 4HE LAND TO THE WEST APPROPRIATED BY THE MILITARY CONTAINS SOME OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR COASTAL SCENERY IN 7ALES AS WELL AS SOME SUPERB DUNES AND IMPORTANT ANCIENT REMAINS $BTUMFNBSUJO 'SFTIXBUFS8FTUBOE"OHMF
&ORCED TO TURN INLAND THE #OAST 0ATH CONTINUES BACK UP THE LANE TO -ERRION AND FOLLOWS THE " THROUGH THE VILLAGE OF #!34,%-!24). n WHOSE CHURCH BOASTS AN ORGAN ONCE OWNED BY -ENDELSSOHN (ERE YOU CAN STAY AT THE CHARACTERFUL /LD 3MITHY PAULINEFORSYTH BIGFOOTCOM PEACEFULLY SET IN OVER AN ACRE OF LAND AND WITH DINNER AVAILABLE BY ARRANGEMENT 4HE #OAST 0ATH FOLLOWS THE " A COUPLE OF MILES TO &RESHWATER 7EST A WEST FACING BEACH RESORT THATS GREAT FOR SURlNG THOUGH THE CURRENTS CAN BE TOO STRONG FOR SWIMMING "EHIND THE BEACH DESOLATE WIND BATTERED DUNES MAKE FOR INTERESTING WALKING 4HE " MEETS THE " FROM 0EMBROKE NEAR THE $EVILS 1UOIT A .EOLITHIC BURIAL CHAMBER TOPPED BY AN IMPRESSIVE CAPSTONE )T CONTINUES DOWN THE lNAL lNGER OF THE PENINSULA TO THE REMOTE VILLAGE OF !.',% AT THE WESTERN END OF A WIDE CURVE OF MUD KNOWN AS !NGLE "AY !NGLE CONSISTS OF ONE LONG STREET BOUNDED BY OLD COLOURED COTTAGES 7EST !NGLE "AY A SECLUDED SPOT A MILE TO THE WEST OF THE MAIN VILLAGE IS BETTER FOR SWIMMING AND OVERLOOKS ANOTHER OF THE ,ORD 0ALMERSTON PROTECTIVE FORTS SEE P ON 4HORN )SLAND !N UPMARKET HOTEL CHAIN HAS NOW BOUGHT THE ISLAND AND PLANS TO REOPEN IT AS A LUXURY RESORT LINKED TO THE MAINLAND BY A CABLE CAR -EANWHILE THERES NO ACCOMMODATION WITH A ROOF IN !NGLE BUT YOU CAN CAMP AT #ASTLE &ARM CLOSED /CTn%ASTER a PER PERSON JUST BEHIND THE CHURCH &OR EATING AND DRINKING TRY THE CONVIVIAL (IBERNIA )NN RIGHT IN THE CENTRE OR ITS TEN MINUTES WALK EAST ALONG THE SHORE TO THE DELIGHTFUL RUSTIC /LD 0OINT (OUSE INN WHOSE lRE IS SAID TO HAVE BURNED CONTINUOUSLY FOR OVER THREE HUNDRED YEARS UNTIL THE MID S SINCE WHEN IT HAS ONLY BEEN LIT IN WINTER 1UALITY MEALS COME IN LARGE PORTIONS GO FOR THE SPECIALS BOARD WHICH USUALLY INCLUDES SEVERAL EXAMPLES OF THE DAYS CATCH
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1FNCSPLFBOEBSPVOE 4HE OLD COUNTY TOWN OF 0%-"2/+% 0ENFRO SITS ON THE SOUTHERN SIDE OF THE 0EMBROKE 2IVER A CONTINUATION OF THE MASSIVE -ILFORD (AVEN WATERWAY THAT WAS DESCRIBED BY .ELSON AS THE GREATEST NATURAL HARBOUR IN THE WORLD 9ET DESPITE ITS LOCATION AND ITS FORMIDABLE CASTLE 0EMBROKE IS RATHER DULL 4HE TOWN GREW UP SOLELY TO SERVE THE CASTLE THE MIGHTIEST LINK IN THE CHAIN OF .ORMAN STRONGHOLDS BUILT ACROSS SOUTHERN 7ALES $RAWN OUT ALONG A HILLTOP RIDGE THE WALLED TOWN mOURISHED AS A PORT FOR 0EMBROKESHIRE GOODS TO BE EXPORTED FROM THE MAIN QUAY SITUATED ALONGSIDE THE WATERS BELOW THE WALLS OF THE CASTLE TO ALL PARTS OF "RITAIN AS WELL AS )RELAND &RANCE AND 3PAIN 4HOUGH IT MANAGED TO CHOOSE THE WINNING SIDE DURING THE 7ARS OF THE 2OSES 0EMBROKE WAS LESS FORTUNATE IN THE #IVIL 7AR WHEN #ROMWELL BESIEGED THE TOWN 4HOUGH IT SUBSEQUENTLY BECAME A CENTRE OF LEATHER MAKING WEAVING DYEING AND TAILORING 0EMBROKE NEVER REGAINED ITS FORMER IMPORTANCE AND BY THE TWEN TIETH CENTURY THE SMALL TOWN WAS IN GRAVE DECLINE ITS PORT LONG SINCE OVERTAKEN BY NEIGHBOURING SITES /NE FORTUNATE RESULT OF THIS IS THAT 0EMBROKE IS MERCI FULLY FREE OF POSTWAR DEVELOPMENT IN THE CENTRE ALTHOUGH THE FRINGES AROUND THE MAIN STREET ARE LARGELY MODERN AND BLAND 4HE TOWNS SOLE THOROUGHFARE -AIN 3TREET STRETCHES FROM THE TRAIN STATION AS 3TATION 2OAD IN THE EAST TO THE MIGHTY WALLS OF THE CASTLE &ROM THE CASTLE GATES IT WIDENS OUT PAST SOME ATTRACTIVE 'EORGIAN AND 6ICTORIAN ERA SHOPS
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DIPPING DOWN FOR OVER HALF A MILE TOWARDS THE TOWERED 3T -ICHAELS CHURCH UNSYMPATHETICALLY RESTORED BY THE 6ICTORIANS "LACKHORSE 7ALK TURNS NORTH RUNNING DOWN TO THE -ILL 0OND AND THE MOST IMPRESSIVE REMNANTS OF THE THIR TEENTH CENTURY TOWN WALLS RUNNING BETWEEN THE DEMOLISHED %AST 'ATE AND "ARNARDS 4OWER A MEDIEVAL TOWERED HOUSE ATTACHED TO THE WALLS !ROUND THE TOWN ARE SEVERAL NOTEWORTHY SIGHTS THE MOST INTERESTING BEING THE RUINED "ISHOPS 0ALACE IN ,AMPHEY A COUNTRY RESIDENCE FOR THE BISHOPS OF 3T $AVIDS IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY AND A COUPLE OF MILES FURTHER ON THE ATTRACTIVE VILLAGE OF #AREW WITH ITS #ELTIC CROSS AND CASTLE 0EMBROKE $OCK THREE MILES NORTH OF 0EMBROKE GREW UP IN A GRID PATTERN DURING THE NINETEENTH CENTURY TO SERVE ITS PARENT TOWN AS A NAVAL DOCKYARD
5IFDBTUMF 0EMBROKES HISTORY IS INEXTRICABLY BOUND UP WITH THAT OF THE CASTLE DAILY !PRILn3EPT AMnPM -ARCH /CT AMnPM .OVn&EB AMnPM a WWWPEMBROKECASTLECOUK FOUNDED AS THE STRONGEST LINK IN THE CHAIN OF FORTRESSES BUILT BY THE .ORMANS ACROSS SOUTH 7ALES TO SUBJUGATE THE PEOPLE )N THE EARLY YEARS FOLLOWING THE .ORMAN INVASION THE PEOPLE OF $EHEUBARTH WEST 7ALES AVOIDED CONQUEST THANKS TO A TACIT AGREEMENT BETWEEN 2HYS AP 4EWDWR AND THE .ORMANS BUT AFTER 2HYS DEATH IN LORD 2OGER DE -ONTGOMERY IMMEDIATELY INVADED THE AREA AND BUILT A CASTLE 0EMBROKES POWERFUL BULK PROTECTED BY A HILL ON ITS SOUTHERN SIDE AND WATER ON THE OTHER THREE PROVED IMPREGNABLE TO A 7ELSH SIEGE AND AFTER THE CREATION OF THE EARLDOM OF 0EMBROKE IT BELONGED TO THE -ARSHALS OR LOCAL LANDOWNERS AWARDED AN EARLDOM WHO ALMOST ENTIRELY REBUILT THE CASTLE BETWEEN AND AND FOR THE NEXT THREE CENTURIES ENFORCED THE RULE OF h,ITTLE %NGLAND "EYOND 7ALESv SEE P )N (ENRY 6) GRANTED THE CASTLE TO *ASPER 4UDOR WHOSE NEPHEW (ARRI OR (ENRY WAS BORN HERE LATER BECOMING THE ,ANCASTRIAN HEIR TO THE THRONE AND IN KING $URING THE #IVIL 7AR 0EMBROKE WAS A 0ARLIAMENTARIAN STRONGHOLD UNTIL THE TOWNS MILITARY GOVERNOR SUDDENLY SWITCHED ALLEGIANCE TO THE +ING IN #ROMWELLS DAY SIEGE OF THE TOWN ONLY SUCCEEDED AFTER HE CUT OFF ITS WATER SUPPLY THE WALLS AND CASTLE WERE THEN PARTIALLY DEMOLISHED TO PREVENT ANY FUTURE RESISTANCE $ESPITE #ROMWELLS BATTERING AND CENTURIES OF SUBSEQUENT NEGLECT THE SHEER BLOODY MINDED BULK OF 0EMBROKE STILL INSPIRES AWE EVEN IF IT IS LARGELY DUE TO EXTENSIVE RESTORATION OVER THE LAST CENTURY %NTERING THROUGH THE SOARING GATEHOUSE BRINGS YOU INTO THE LARGE GRASSY COURTYARD ENCLOSED BY BATTLEMENTS PUNCTUATED BY HULKING TOWERS 4HESE MARKED THE POSITIONS WHERE THE TOWN WALLS FORMERLY ATTACHED THEMSELVES TO THE FORTRESS !T THE REAR OF THE COURTYARD IS THE INNER WARD GROUPED AROUND THE CASTLES MOST EYE CATCHING FEATURE THE VAST ROUND .ORMAN KEEP FT HIGH WITH WALLS FT THICK AND CROWNED BY A DOME 4HE INTACT TOWERS AND BATTLEMENTS CONTAIN MANY HEAVILY RESTORED COMMUNAL ROOMS NOW EMPTY OF FURNITURE AND TO A LARGE EXTENT ATMOSPHERE TOO ALTHOUGH THE WALKWAYS AND DARK ROOFED PASSAGES THAT CONNECT THEM GIVE AMPLE CHANCE TO CHASE AROUND SPIRAL STAIRWAYS INTO GREAT OAK BEAMED HALLS 3OME OF THE ROOMS MAINLY IN THE GATEHOUSE ARE USED TO HOUSE SOME EXCELLENT DISPLAYS ON THE HISTORY OF THE CASTLE AND THE 4UDOR EMPIRE 4HE KEEP WAS PROBABLY BUILT AT THE BEGINNING OF THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY BY 7ILLIAM -ARSHAL /NE CLUE TO ITS AGE COMES IN THE TWO CONTRASTING WINDOWS IN ITS SIDE n ONE ROUND HEADED AND .ORMAN THE OTHER POINTED AND 0ERPENDICULAR n SUGGESTING THAT ITS CONSTRUCTION SPANNED THE TRANSITIONAL PERIOD BETWEEN THE
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0EMBROKES TOURIST OFlCE %ASTERn/CT DAILY AMnPM ON #OMMONS 2OAD WHICH RUNS PARALLEL TO -AIN 3TREET CAN PROVIDE A USEFUL FREE TOWN GUIDE AND INFORMATION ON THE 0EMBROKESHIRE .ATIONAL 0ARK AND #OAST 0ATH )F YOU DECIDE TO STAY DONT MISS "EECH (OUSE "" -AIN 3T ONE OF 0EMBROKES OLDEST RESIDENCES 4HOUGH IT ONLY HAS SHARED BATHROOMS FOR COMFORT AND HOSPITALITY IT EASILY OUTDOES PLACES CHARGING TWICE AS MUCH ONE ROOM HAS A FOUR POSTER BED )F ITS FULL TRY THE (IGH .OON 'UESTHOUSE ,OWER ,AMPHEY 2D WWWHIGHNOONCOUK CLOSE TO THE TRAIN STATION 0RICIER PLACES IN TOWN ARENT GREAT SHAKES AND YOU MIGHT BE BETTER OFF STAYING IN ,AMPHEY SEE BELOW A COUPLE OF MILES TO THE EAST &OR GOOD ESPRESSO AND LIGHT MEALS HEAD FOR 4HE #ORNSTORE CLOSED 3UN DOWN BY THE RIVER ON .ORTHGATE 3TREET AND FOR SOMETHING MORE SUBSTANTIAL TRY THE NICELY COOKED RESTAURANT DISHES AND BAR MEALS AT THE +INGS !RMS (OTEL AT -AIN 3T 4HE BEST OF THE DOZENS OF PUBS IS THE /LD #ROSS 3AWS AT -AIN 3T ALTHOUGH ITS HARD TO BEAT A SUMMER EVENING AT THE 7ATERMANS !RMS OVER THE BRIDGE ON .ORTHGATE 3TREET WHERE YOU CAN WHILE AWAY THE HOURS ON A VERANDA OVERLOOKING THE -ILL 0OND
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TWO ARCHITECTURAL AGES 9OU CAN CLIMB THE STEPS IN THE MASSIVE WALLS FOR AN EERIE VIEW INTO ITS YAWNING INNARDS !LONGSIDE THE KEEP AN INSIGNIlCANT LOOKING CLUSTER OF RUINOUS BUILDINGS HARBOURS A DUNGEON TOWER n COMPLETE WITH GRILLE TO PEER THROUGH INTO A GLOOMY CELL BELOW n A .ORMAN (ALL WHOSE PERIOD ARCH HAS BEEN SADLY OVER RESTORED AND REINFORCED AND THE ADJACENT /RIEL OR .ORTHERN (ALL A 4UDOR RE CREATION OF AN EARLIER ANTECHAMBER 3TEPS AT THE SIDE OF THIS LEAD FAR DOWN INTO A HUGE NATURAL CAVERN DANK AND SLIMY WHERE LIGHT BEAMS IN THROUGH A BARRED HOLE IN THE WALL FACING OUT OVER THE WATERSIDE PATH
1FNCSPLF%PDL 7ORKADAY 0%-"2/+% $/#+ $OC 0ENFRO THREE MILES NORTH OF 0EMBROKE IS PRINCIPALLY OF INTEREST FOR THE FERRIES TO 2OSSLARE IN )RELAND 4HE TOWN SPRANG UP ALMOST INSTANTANEOUSLY IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY AS A RESULT OF A LOCAL ARGUMENT THAT DEVELOPED WHEN -ILFORD (AVEN REFUSED TO PROVIDE A HOME FOR A NAVAL DOCKYARD #ONSTRUCTED ON A GRID PLAN AND WITH SOME HAND SOME 6ICTORIAN BUILDINGS mANKING THE WIDE STREETS 0EMBROKE $OCKS FORTUNES HAVE ALWAYS mUCTUATED THOUGH THE OIL RElNERIES AND DEEP WATER DOCK PUT IT ON A RELATIVELY lRM FOOTING TODAY 0EMBROKE $OCKS TRAIN STATION LEADS OUT ON TO 7ATER 3TREET FROM WHERE 0IER 2OAD HEADS RIGHT DOWN THE HILL TO (OBBS 0OINT THERES A SPECTACULAR PANORAMA OVER THE BOATS AND SMOKING STACKS OF THE $AUGLEDDAU 2IVER $OWN ON THE HARBOURSIDE OFF &RONT 3TREET A FOOTBRIDGE LEADS TO THE 'UN 4OWER !PRILn3EPT DAILY AMnPM a ONE OF 0ALMERSTONS &OLLIES SEE BOX P )T NOW HOUSES A FEW MODERATELY DIVERTING EXHIBITS ON THE HISTORY OF THE NAVAL DOCKYARD AND THE TOWN ITSELF )MMEDIATELY WEST IS THE IMPOSING DOCKYARD SHEL TERING BEHIND HIGH WALLS AND CONTAINING THE FERRY TERMINAL FOR THE TWICE DAILY )RISH &ERRIES WWWIRISHFERRIESCOM SERVICE TO 2OSSLARE IN )RELAND BOATS CURRENTLY DEPART AT AM AND PM AND THE JOURNEY TAKES FOUR HOURS 4HE TERMINAL CONTAINS ANOTHER TOURIST OFlCE %ASTERn/CT DAILY AMnPM 4HOUGH 0EMBROKE ITSELF MAKES A BETTER BASE THERE IS DECENT ACCOMMODATION HERE AT THE CONVENIENT $OLPHIN (OTEL ON 0EMBROKE 3TREET
YARDS OR SO FROM THE FERRY TERMINAL 4HE 7ELSHMANS !RMS ON ,ONDON 2OAD HAS EXCELLENT FOOD WHILE THERES PRICIER CONTINENTAL FARE AT ,A "RASSERIA NEARBY ON ,AWS 3TREET
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4HE PLEASANT VILLAGE OF ,!-0(%9 ,LANDYFAI TWO MILES SOUTHEAST OF 0EMBROKE IS BEST KNOWN FOR THE RUINED "ISHOPS 0ALACE DAILY AMnPM a #!$7 WHICH STANDS OFF A QUIET LANE TO THE NORTH OF THE SETTLEMENT $ATING FROM AT LEAST THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY AND ABANDONED AT THE 2EFORMATION IN THE MID SIXTEENTH CENTURY THE PALACE WAS BUILT AS A COUNTRY RETREAT FOR THE BISHOPS OF 3T $AVIDS THOUGH IT WAS IN USE AS #ROWN APARTMENTS FOR A FEW DECADES AFTERWARDS 3TOUT WALLS SURROUND THE SCATTERED RUINS WITH MANY OF THE PALACE BUILDINGS HAVING LONG BEEN LOST UNDER THE GRASSY BANKS -OST IMPRESSIVE ARE THE REMAINS OF THE 'REAT (ALL THAT FORMS THE EASTERN END OF THE COMPLEX TOPPED BY THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY "ISHOP 'OWERS HALLMARK ARCADED PARAPETS SIMILAR TO THOSE THAT HE BUILT IN THE "ISHOPS 0ALACE OF 3T $AVIDS ,IT ONLY BY NARROW SLITS THE GLOOMY HALL BENEATH THE 'REAT (ALL HAS THE FEELING OF A CRYPT ,AMPHEY IS AN AGREEABLE ENOUGH PLACE IN WHICH TO LINGER ON THE TRAIN LINE TO 0EMBROKE AND WITH A FEW ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS 4HE WHITE 'EORGIAN ,AMPHEY #OURT (OTEL WWWLAMPHEYCOURTCOUK OPPO SITE THE "ISHOPS 0ALACE RUINS IS A BIT OVER THE TOP BUT FEATURES AN INDOOR POOL AND VARIOUS WAYS TO PAMPER YOURSELF 4HE ,AMPHEY (ALL (OTEL BY THE CHURCH IS MORE MODEST OR YOU CAN SLEEP WELL AT THE CHARACTERFUL 'EORGIAN ,OWER ,AMPHEY 0ARK WWWLOWERLAMPHEYPARK COUK 4HIS LAST IS LOCATED A FEW HUNDRED YARDS NORTH OF THE $IAL )NN ON 4HE 2IDGEWAY WHICH OFFERS A RELIABLE MENU AND GOOD BEER
$BSFX 4HE PRETTY RIVERSIDE VILLAGE OF #!2%7 #AERIW FOUR MILES EAST OF 0EMBROKE IS FAMED FOR ITS THIRTEEN FOOT #ELTIC CROSS JUST SOUTH OF THE RIVER CROSSING BY THE MAIN ROAD %RECTED AS A MEMORIAL TO -AREDYDD RULER OF $EHEUBARTH WHO DIED IN THE GRACEFULLY TAPERING SHAFT IS COVERED IN lNE TRACERY OF ANCIENT 7ELSH DESIGNS "EYOND THE CROSS AN %LIZABETHAN WALLED GARDEN HOUSES THE TICKET OFlCE FOR #AREW #ASTLE AND 4IDAL -ILL %ASTERn/CT DAILY AMnPM a WWW CAREWCASTLECOM ! HYBRID OF %LIZABETHAN FANCY AND EARLIER DEFENSIVE NECESSITY THE CASTLE IS REACHED ACROSS A lELD %XPLANATORY MODELS ILLUSTRATE THE DEVELOP MENT OF THE SITE WHICH IS AN EXCELLENT EXAMPLE OF THE ORGANIC NATURE BY WHICH CASTLES GREW FROM THE .ORMAN TOWER BELIEVED TO BE THE ORIGINAL GATEHOUSE THROUGH THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY FRONT BATTLEMENTS TO THE 4UDOR GATEHOUSE AND THE %LIZABETHAN MANSION GRAFTED ONTO THEM ALL ! FEW HUNDRED YARDS WEST OF THE CASTLE IS THE #AREW &RENCH -ILL LAST USED IN AND THE ONLY EXTANT MILL POWERED BY THE SHIFTING TIDES IN 7ALES 4HE IMPRESSIVE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY EXTERIOR BELIES THE PEDESTRIAN EXHIBITIONS AND SELF GUIDED AUDIOVISUAL DISPLAYS OF THE MILLING PROCESS AT DIFFERENT STAGES
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4HE CENTRAL SLAB OF 0EMBROKESHIRE IS GENERALLY EITHER IGNORED OR ACTIVELY AVOIDED BY VISITORS INTENT ON REACHING THE MORE OBVIOUS COASTAL PLEASURES TO THE SOUTH
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AND WEST #ERTAINLY THE WATERFRONT PETROCHEMICAL PLANTS ALONG THIS STRETCH ARE A FAR CRY FROM THE LIMESTONE CLIFFS AND WHEELING SEA BIRDS ELSEWHERE AND NONE OF THE TOWNS ARE ESPECIALLY EXCITING BUT THE VILLAGES DOTTING THE ARMS OF THE $AUGLEDDAU ESTUARY ARE DELIGHTFUL AND ALMOST ENTIRELY UNSPOILT 0EMBROKE $OCK LIES ON THE SOUTHERN BANKS OF THE MAGNIlCENT $AUGLEDDAU 2IVER ESTUARY THE CONTINUATION OF ONE OF THE WORLDS GREATEST NATURAL HARBOURS
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THE -ILFORD (AVEN 4HIS SPAWNED AN EPONYMOUS 1UAKER COMMUNITY ON THE NORTHERN BANK WHICH NOW SEEMS RATHER SADLY TO BE SEARCHING FOR A NEW POST INDUSTRIAL IDENTITY BY PLOUGHING VAST SUMS INTO THE DEVELOPMENT OF SOME DUBIOUS TOURIST FEATURES 3EVEN MILES TO THE NORTH THE CHIEF TOWN OF THE REGION (AVERFORDWEST MAKES AN IMPORTANT MARKET AND TRANSPORT CENTRE THAT DESPITE SOME HANDSOME ARCHITECTURE REMAINS RATHER SOULLESS )T IS MADE MORE PALATABLE BY ITS PROXIMITY TO 3COLTON -ANOR WHICH HOUSES THE COUNTY MUSEUM AND 0ICTON #ASTLE 4HE LATTER SITS ABOVE THE WIDE TIDAL WATERS OF THE $AUGLEDDAU A RIVER ESTUARY mOODING THE VALLEYS OF INLAND 0EMBROKESHIRE AND PROVIDING A SURPRISINGLY MARI TIME FEEL AMIDST SUCH ROLLING COUNTRYSIDE $OTTED AROUND THE MUDDY ESTUARY ARE CREAKY LITTLE VILLAGES AND SOME lNE WALKS AND PUBS 4HE STOUT LITTLE TOWN OF .ARBERTH IS THE SELF APPOINTED CAPITAL OF THE ,ANDSKER BORDERLANDS n A REVIVED NAME FOR THE IMAGINARY LINE THAT DIVIDES THE ANGLICIZED CORNER OF SOUTH 0EMBROKESHIRE FROM ITS 7ELSH SPEAKING NEIGHBOUR n BUT IS MOST WIDELY KNOWN FOR THE BIG TIME TOURIST ATTRACTIONS NEARBY AMONG THEM THE /AKWOOD THEME PARK HOME TO %UROPES LARGEST WOODEN ROLLER COASTER ! BRANCH TRAIN LINE LEAVES THE MAIN 3WANSEAn&ISHGUARD ROUTE AT 7HITLAND CALLING AT .ARBERTH AND 4ENBY EN ROUTE TO 0EMBROKE AND 0EMBROKE $OCK ! SECOND SPUR PEELS OFF THE MAIN LINE AT #LARBESTON 2OAD BOUND FOR (AVERFORD WEST AND -ILFORD (AVEN ! REASONABLE BUS SERVICE THROUGHOUT THE AREA HAS MOST ROUTES STARTING AT EITHER 0EMBROKE OR (AVERFORDWEST
.JMGPSE)BWFO /NE OF THE MOST IMPRESSIVE SIGHTS IN THIS PART OF 7ALES IS THE VIEW FROM THE S #LEDDAU "RIDGE CAR TOLL P BETWEEN 0EMBROKE $OCK AND .EYLAND ON THE OPPOSITE BANK 0EDESTRIANS CAN ALSO CROSS IT THE VIEWS OVER THE JUTTING HEADLANDS ARE MAGICAL THE MASTS OF BOATS FAR BELOW AND THE FULL SKIES REmECTED IN THE CLEAR WATER %VEN THE RElNERIES LOOK ATTRACTIVE FROM THIS FAR UP 4RY TO SYNCHRONIZE YOUR JOURNEY OVER THE BRIDGE WITH A DECENT SUNSET WHEN THE GLOWING SUN DIPS INTO THE ESTUARY MOUTH )F YOU NEED TO WHILE AWAY AN HOUR OR TWO BEFORE OR AFTER SUNSET DROP INTO THE /LD &ERRY )NN IMMEDIATELY BELOW THE BRIDGE FOR HIGH STANDARD BUT RELATIVELY INEXPENSIVE MEALS AND REAL ALES 4HE WATERWAY BELOW n THE -ILFORD (AVEN n HAS LONG BEEN AN IMPORTANT HARBOUR AND WAS EVEN RECOGNIZED BY 7ILLIAM 3HAKESPEARE HOWªFARªITªIS 4OªTHISªSAMEªBLESSEDª-ILFORDªAND ªBYªTHEªWAY 4ELLªMEªHOWª7ALESªWASªMADEªSOªHAPPYªAS 4OªINHERITªSUCHªAªHAVEN *NPHFOJO$ZNCFMJOF "DU*** TDFOF
4AKING ITS NAME FROM THE WATERWAY THE TOWN OF -),&/2$ (!6%. !BERDAUGLEDDAU FOUR MILES WEST OF .EYLAND WAS FOUNDED IN THE LATE EIGHT EENTH CENTURY BY A GROUP OF EARLY !MERICAN SETTLERS FROM .ANTUCKET WHO WERE IMPORTED AS WHALERS 4HE GRID PATTERN THEY IMPOSED n PRINCIPALLY THREE STREETS RISING SHARPLY PARALLEL TO THE WATERWAY n SURVIVES TODAY AMID NEW CIVIC AND RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS $ESPITE A MAGNIlCENT SITE AND INTERESTING HERITAGE -ILFORD (AVEN HASNT GOT MUCH GOING FOR IT 4HE TOWN HAS SEEN HARD TIMES OF LATE WITH THE DEAD BEAT TOWN CENTRE RECEIVING LITTLE OF THE DEVELOPMENT MONEY PUMPED INTO THE HORRIBLY STERILE hMARINAv 4HE WATERSIDE IS IMPRESSIVE THOUGH WITH TUGS
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AND STEAMERS PLOUGHING UP THE GLITTERING WATERS OF THE (AVEN THAT STRETCH OUT BELOW THE PLEASANT PUBLIC GARDENS (AMILTON 4ERRACE SKIRTS AROUND THE WATERSIDE TO THE REVAMPED DOCKS NOW REBRANDED AS A MARINA (ERE YOULL lND AN ASSORTMENT OF ATTRACTIONS INCLUDING A BOWLING ALLEY THE $OCKSIDE 'ALLERY AND THE GENUINELY INTERESTING TOWN MUSEUM %ASTERn/CT -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN DURING SCHOOL HOLIDAYS BANK HOLIDAY WEEKENDS NOONnPM a HOUSED IN AN EIGHTEENTH CENTURY WAREHOUSE ORIGINALLY DESIGNED TO STORE WHALE OIL %XHIBITS INCLUDE PHOTOGRAPHS AND MEMENTOES FROM THE lSHING TRADE AN EXPLANATION OF THE MODERN OIL INDUS TRY DETAILS OF THE 1UAKER BEGINNINGS OF THE TOWN AND SOME FASCINATING ARCHIVE MATERIAL OF -ILFORD (AVEN IN WARTIME /N THE WESTERN SIDE OF THE DOCKS AND ESTUARY &ORT (UBBERSTON IS A 0ALM ERSTON DEFENCE FORT SEE ABOVE BUILT BETWEEN AND THAT HOUSED SOME MEN IN THE LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY )T HAS RECENTLY BECOME SO RICKETY AND VANDALIZED THAT ACCESS IS PROHIBITED .EARBY IS THE RUINED OCTAGONAL DOME OF THE (AKIN /BSERVATORY THE SOLE REMAINING RELIC OF TOWN FOUNDER #HARLES &RANCIS 'REVILLES DREAM TO BUILD A hMATHEMATICAL COLLEGEv
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-ILFORD (AVEN TRAIN STATION IS LOCATED UNDER THE (AKIN ROAD BRIDGE NEXT TO THE DOCKS 4HE ONLY REASONS TO STRAY FROM THE DOCKS AREA AND INTO THE TOWN PROPER ARE TO VISIT THE TOURIST OFlCE AT #HARLES 3T !PRILn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM OR WEST 7ALES ONLY PROFESSIONAL THEATRE THE 4ORCH ON 3T 0ETERS 2OAD AT THE END OF #HARLES 3TREET !CCOMMODATION IS HANDIEST A FEW YARDS FROM THE DOCKS TOWARDS (AKIN AT THE WELL KEPT #LEDDAU 6ILLA "" 3T !NNES 2D OR WITH -RS 7ILLIAMS 0IER 2D IN ONE OF THE OLDEST HOUSES IN TOWN WHERE ROOMS ALL HAVE SEA VIEWS 4HERES A CAMPSITE AT 3ANDY (AVEN NEAR (ERBRANDSTON TWO MILES WEST OF TOWN a PER PITCH !LSO CONSIDER THE 4ABERNA )NN IN (ERBRANDSTON JUST OVER TWO MILES WEST WITH COMFORTABLE ROOMS ABOVE A CONVIVIAL PUB THAT SERVES REAL ALES AND QUALITY FRESHLY PREPARED MEALS "ACK IN TOWN -ARTHAS 6INEYARD ON THE -ARINA IS A GOOD OPTION PARTICULARLY FOR lSH LOVERS
OR TRY (AMILTONS (AMILTON 4ERRACE A TEAROOM UP BY THE TOURIST OFlCE WHICH OPENS SOME EVENINGS
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,YING SEVEN MILES NORTHEAST OF -ILFORD (AVEN IN THE VALLEY OF THE 7ESTERN #LEDDAU THE ANCIENT SETTLEMENT OF (!6%2&/2$7%34 (WLFFORDD GREW UP AROUND THE 'ILBERT DE #LARE CASTLE THAT DOMINATES THE SKYLINE TO THIS DAY 4HE TOWN PROSPERED AS A PORT AND TRADING CENTRE IN THE SEVENTEENTH AND EIGHTEENTH CENTURIES AND ITS COMMAND OF LOCAL TRADE ENSURED THAT (AVERFORDWEST DEPOSED 0EMBROKE AS THE COUNTY TOWN OF 0EMBROKESHIRE (OWEVER DESPITE ITS NATURAL ADVANTAGES A SLEW OF RICH ARCHITECTURE FROM ITS GLORY DAYS AND SOME RECENT JAZZ ING UP ALONG THE RIVER (AVERFORDWEST IS SCARCELY A PLACE TO LINGER 4HE DIMINUTIVE #ASTLE 3QUARE FORMS THE HEART OF THE TOWN &ROM HERE A SMALL ALLEYWAY TO THE RIGHT OF 7OOLWORTHS ASCENDS TO THE CASTLE WHICH FAILS TO LIVE UP TO THE EXPECTATIONS CREATED BY VIEWS OF IT FROM DOWN BELOW ALL THERE IS TO SEE IS A DINGY SHELL OF THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY INNER WARD .EXT TO THE CASTLE IN THE IMPOSING GOVERNORS HOUSE IS THE TOWN MUSEUM %ASTERn/CT -ONn3AT AMnPM a A MOTLEY COLLECTION OF MINOR ART PIECES AND SOME FAIRLY INTER ESTING LOCAL HISTORY "ACK DOWN BELOW THE 2IVERSIDE 3HOPPING #ENTRE FOLLOWS THE RIVER FROM #ASTLE 3QUARE UP TO THE /LD "RIDGE NEXT TO THE BUS TERMINUS AND TOURIST OFlCE 4HE MORE ARCHITECTURALLY APPEALING PARTS OF (AVERFORDWEST LIE UP THE HANDSOME (IGH 3TREET RISING FROM THE 2IVER #LEDDAU TOWARDS THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 3T -ARYS #HURCH 1SBDUJDBMJUJFT
4HE TRAIN STATION IS TEN MINUTES WALK EAST OF THE CENTRE WHILE BUSES COME AND GO FROM THE DEPOT AT THE END OF THE /LD "RIDGE NEAR THE TOURIST OFlCE -AYn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM /CTn!PRIL -ONn3AT AMnPM HAVERFORDWESTIC PEMBROKESHIREGOVUK -IKES "IKES 0RENDERGAST DOES BIKE RENTAL &OR "" ACCOMMODATION IN TOWN TRY #OLLEGE 'UEST (OUSE (ILL 3T BUT IF YOUVE GOT WHEELS DRIVE THREE MILES WEST TO %AST (OOK &ARMHOUSE 0ORTlELD 'ATE WWWEASTHOOKFARMHOUSE COUK WHICH HAS DELIGHTFUL ROOMS SERVES DELICIOUS BREAKFASTS WITH STYLE AND DOES EVENING MEALS FOR UNDER a 4HERES A CAMPSITE TWO MILES NORTHWEST ON THE ! AT THE 2ISING 3UN )NN IN 0ELCOMB "RIDGE a PER PITCH &OR DAYTIME FOOD GRAB A FRESHLY lLLED BAGUETTE IN $YLANS (IGH 3T WHICH IS A CUT ABOVE MOST OF THE TOWNS CAFÏS ! GREAT OPTION FOR LUNCH OR EVENING MEALS AT WEEKENDS IS THE INEXPENSIVE 'EORGES -ARKET 3T CLOSED 3UN WHERE YOU CAN EAT IN A LOVELY WALLED GARDEN IF THE WEATHER ALLOWS OR THE CELLAR BISTRO IF NOT &OUR MILES NORTHWEST OF TOWN ON THE ! THE SUBLIME +EESTON +ITCHEN CLOSED 3UN EVENINGS AND -ON JUST BEFORE THE VILLAGE OF 3IMPSON #ROSS IS SUPERB FOR SEASONAL SPECIALITY DISHES 1JDUPO$BTUMFBOE4DPMUPO.BOPS
4HE MAIN ! HEADS EAST OUT OF (AVERFORDWEST PAST THE TRAIN STATION !FTER THREE MILES SIGNS POINT TWO MILES SOUTH TOWARDS 0ICTON #ASTLE !PRILn3EPT DAILY EXCEPT -ON NOONnPM a INCLUDING GROUNDS A SOMEWHAT GRACELESS HYBRID OF ARCHITECTURAL STYLES FROM THE FOURTEENTH TO THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURIES SITED IN GLORIOUS GROUNDS -ARCHn/CT DAILY AMnDUSK a WITH VIEWS OVER THE %ASTERN #LEDDAU AND ITS VALLEYS
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4HE AREA NOW KNOWN AS THE ,ANDSKER "ORDERLANDS FORMS A QUIET CHARMING PART OF MID 0EMBROKESHIRE BROKEN BY SOME BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES THAT ARE STILL WELL OFF THE BEATEN TOURIST TRACK ,ANDSKER IS AN !NGLO 3AXON WORD MEANING hFRON TIERv AND IS USED IN THIS SENSE AS A DElNITION OF THE DIVISION BETWEEN #YMRIC NORTH 0EMBROKESHIRE AND THE ANGLICIZED SOUTH 4HE DIVISION IS ANCIENT GOING BACK TO THE .ORMAN COLONIZATION OF THE SOUTH OF THE COUNTY BUT DESPITE ITS ARCHAIC TENOR THE NAME IS A COMPARATIVELY RECENT SOBRIQUET n lRST MENTIONED IN THIS CONTEXT IN THE S 4HE hCAPITALv OF THE BORDERLANDS IS .!2"%24( !RBERTH EIGHT MILES EAST OF (AVERFORDWEST A PLEASING AND CHEERFUL LITTLE TOWN WITH A REAL COMMUNITY SPIRIT AND !CCORDING TO 4HE -ABINOGION A COLLECTION OF ANCIENT #ELTIC FOLK TALES AND LEGENDS THE TOWN WAS THE COURT OF 0WYLL AND ITS RUINED CASTLE WAS PROBABLY THE OLD HOME OF THE 7ELSH PRINCES 4ODAY THOUGH ITS MAIN DRAW IS A GROWING REPUTATION AS 0EMBROKESHIRES PRIME BOUTIQUE SHOP PING DESTINATION 4HE TRAIN STATION IS AT THE FAR EASTERN END OF THE TOWN 3TATION 2OAD TURNS INTO 3PRING 'ARDENS ALONG WHICH YOULL lND ONE OF .ARBERTHS MANY ARTISTS OUTLETS THE ENJOYABLE #REATIVE #AFÏ -AYnMID 3EPT SCHOOL HOLIDAYS DAILY AMnPM OTHER TIMES 4UESn3UN AMnPM WHERE CUSTOMERS ARE ENCOURAGED TO MAKE A MESS IN THE NAME OF CREATING THEIR OWN PERSONALIZED CERAMICS !T THE TOP OF TOWN 3PRING 'ARDENS MEETS (IGH 3TREET WHERE THE 1UEENS (ALL WWWTHEQUEENSHALLCOM IS ONE OF THE BEST EMERGING VENUES IN 0EMBROKESHIRE HOSTING WORLD MUSIC CONCERTS THEATRE ART EXHIBITIONS AND MORE -IDWAY DOWN (IGH 3TREET YOULL SEE THE CURIOUS SPIKY TOWN HALL BUILT IN THE S TO MASK THE MUNICIPAL WATER TANK UNDERNEATH AND NOW HOUSING A DESIGN STORE
4065)8& 4 58"- & 4
&OUR MILES NORTHEAST OF (AVERFORDWEST ALONG THE " 3COLTON -ANOR !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM a IS A MODEST STATELY HOME DATING FROM WHICH FORMS THE NUCLEUS OF THE 0EMBROKESHIRE #OUNTY -USEUM )TS A GOOD PLACE TO APPRECIATE THE LIFESTYLE OF A RICH 6ICTORIAN FAMILY THE GILT BROCADE AND lNE FURNISHINGS UPSTAIRS IN TOTAL CONTRAST WITH THE PERFUNCTORY CELLAR LARDER AND LAUNDRY BELOW "ESIDES A lNE COLLECTION OF PRINTS AND MAPS DETAILING SOME OF THE LOST PICTURESQUE ESTATES OF 7ALES THERES A #ARRIAGE (OUSE lLLED WITH TRAPS AND A WEALTH OF LOCAL ARTEFACTS (AVING REFRESHED YOURSELF IN THE AGREEABLE CAFÏ CHECK OUT THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY PARK DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM PARKING a WHOSE VISITOR CENTRE EMPHASIZES ENVI RONMENTAL AWARENESS
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!CCOMMODATION IN .ARBERTH IS LIMITED THOUGH THERE ARE ROOMS AT THE COMFY 0LAS (YFRYD #OUNTRY (OTEL WWWPLASHYFRYDHOTELCOM ON -OORlELD 2OAD AT THE TOP END OF TOWN 4HE HAMLET OF 2OBESTON 7ATHEN JUST OVER A MILE NORTH ON THE ! HAS TWO RELIABLE GUESTHOUSES (IGHLAND 'RANGE &ARM WWWHIGHLANDGRANGECOUK WHICH SERVES MEALS AND THE SIMPLER #ANTON (OUSE WITH SHARED BATHROOMS 4HE $INGLE CAMPSITE a PER PITCH ON *ESSIE 2OAD YARDS FROM THE #REATIVE #AFÏ WILL USUALLY lT IN SOME TENTS 4HERE ARE ALSO A COUPLE OF NEARBY OPTIONS AROUND THE %ASTERN #LEDDAU SEE P 4RY TO VISIT .ARBERTH FOR LUNCH BEST TAKEN AT #AFÏ /LE (IGH 3T A LITTLE SLICE OF 3PAIN TUCKED IN BEHIND THE FABULOUS 5LTRA COMIDA DELI (AMS HANG FROM THE CEILING AND THE BLACKBOARD MENU FEATURES
4065)8& 4 58"- & 4
DELICIOUS 3PANISH MORSELS SERVED EITHER IN SANDWICHES OR AS PART OF A SET LUNCH n COURSES FOR an ALL WASHED DOWN WITH 3PANISH WINES AND BEERS AND GREAT COFFEE 4HERES ALSO GOOD FOOD ACROSS THE ROAD AT 1 #AFÏ IN THE 1UEENS (ALL 0UB FOOD IS BEST AT THE #OACH AND (ORSES AT THE TOP OF THE (IGH 3TREET OR 4HE !NGEL CLOSE TO THE 1UEENS (ALL &OR DRINKING TRY THE MEMORABILIA lLLED +IRKLAND !RMS ON 3T *AMES 3TREET OR HEAD OUT TO THE #RESSELLY !RMS AT #RESSWELL 1UAY SEE BELOW #MBDLQPPM.JMMBOE0BLXPPE
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.ARBERTH LIES TO THE EAST OF THE MOST IMPRESSIVE SCENERY AROUND THE $AUGLEDDAU ESTUARY 4HE TIDAL REACH OF THE %ASTERN #LEDDAU 2IVER GOES AS FAR AS "LACKPOOL -ILL DAILY !PRILn*UNE AMnPM *ULY !UG AMnPM 3EPT AMnPM a FOUR MILES WEST OF .ARBERTH !N ELEGANT FOUR STOREY STONE BLOCK THE MILL WAS BUILT IN TO GRIND WHEAT USING WATERPOWER ALTHOUGH THIS SOURCE WAS REPLACED AT THE BEGINNING OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY BY TURBINES -UCH OF THE MACHINERY HAS BEEN RESTORED AND CAN BE SEEN THROUGHOUT THE BUILDING ALONG SIDE REPLICA WORKSHOPS lLLED WITH BLAND WAX MODELS "ELOW THE MILL A SERIES OF hCAVERNSv ACTUALLY JUST THE MAN MADE BASEMENT HAVE ALSO BEEN lLLED WITH MODELS THIS TIME REPLICA BROWN BEARS HYENAS AND A HUGE 7ELSH DRAGON IN A FANCIFUL ATTEMPT TO DEPICT LIFE IN PREHISTORIC 7ALES 4HE ! HEADS SOUTH FROM "LACKPOOL -ILL PAST A COUPLE OF THEME PARKS THE BETTER OF THEM /AKWOOD !PRILn*ULY 3EPTn/CT DAILY AMnPM !UG DAILY AMnPM a 7ALES LARGEST SUCH SITE AND AN EXCITING DAY OUT )TS FORTE IS ROLLER COASTERS INCLUDING %UROPES LARGEST WOODEN ONE IN THE SHAPE OF -EGAPHOBIA AND THE STOMACH CHURNING 6ERTIGO RIDE FOR AN ADDITIONAL a BUT THERES ALSO TOBOGGANING WATER RAPIDS BOATING GO KARTING A 7ILD 7EST TOWN AND NUMEROUS SMALLER RIDES 0OUIFCBOLTPGUIF&BTUFSO$MFEEBV
7EST OF "LACKPOOL -ILL QUIET LANES WIND DOWN TOWARDS THE MUDDY BANKS OF THE #LEDDAU ESTUARY )TS A CHARMING LANDSCAPE OF SMALL INCONSEQUENTIAL SETTLE MENTS AND SOME GREAT IF SOMETIMES A LITTLE OVERGROWN WALKING FOLLOWING THE WAYMARKED ,ANDSKER "ORDERLANDS 4RAIL 4HE TRAIL RUNS THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE %ASTERN #LEDDAU STARTING FROM "LACKPOOL -ILL AND SOON REACHING THE LONE SOME HAMLET OF ,!.$3()00).' WHOSE DESOLATE QUAY A MILE SOUTH WAS ONCE A BUSY FERRY POINT AND COAL PORT (ERE THE TWO #LEDDAU DAU GLEDDAU OR hTWO SWORDSv RIVERS MEET WITH THE MAIN ESTUARY PLUNGING SOUTHWARDS THROUGH WOODED HILLSIDES 0RETTY ,!72%..9 VILLAGE FOUR MILES SOUTH IS DOMINATED BY THE FOUR STOREY TOWER OF THE MAGNIlCENT TWELFTH CENTURY 3T #ARADOCS CHURCH ! TRACK ALONGSIDE THE CHURCH WINDS UP TO THE SITE OF ,AWRENNYS OLD CASTLE NOW A PICNIC AREA WITH TREMENDOUS VIEWS OVER THE CONmUENCE OF THE #RESSWELL AND #AREW RIVERS AT ,AWRENNY 1UAY ABOUT HALF A MILE FROM THE VILLAGE 4HIS IS ONE END OF THE BEST SHORT WALK ALONG THE ESTUARY n A WATERS EDGE STROLL PAST ANCIENT OAK WOODLANDS WITH VIEWS OF THE PRIVATELY OWNED "ENTON #ASTLE ON THE OTHER BANK !N INFREQUENT POSTBUS RUNS TO ,AWRENNY FROM .ARBERTH GIVING ACCESS TO THE ,AWRENNY 9(! HOSTEL OR DORMS a HOUSED IN A REFURBISHED 6ICTORIAN SCHOOL 4HERES ALSO ACCOMMODATION A MILE NORTH OF ,AWRENNY 6ILLAGE AT +NOWLES &ARM WWW LAWRENNYORGUK A GREAT ORGANIC FARMHOUSE "" CLOSE TO THE START OF SOME WONDERFUL WALKS 4HE PATH HUGS THE NORTHERN BANK OF THE #RESSWELL FOR TWO MILES TO TINY #2%337%,, 15!9 HOME TO THE WATERFRONT #RESSELLY !RMS ONE OF THE lNEST
PUBS IN WEST 7ALES WHERE BEER COMES IN FROTHING JUGS BUT FOOD IS CONSPICU OUSLY ABSENT ! SHORT STUMBLE FROM THE PUB IS #RESWELL (OUSE WWWCRESSWELLHOUSECOUK WHICH DOES A GREAT BREAKFAST a THREE COURSE MEALS AND IS APPEALINGLY SITUATED BY THE ESTUARY
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4HE MOST WESTERLY POINT OF 7ALES 3T "RIDES "AY IS ONE OF THE COUNTRYS MOST ENCHANTING AREAS WITH ROCKY OUTCROPS ISLANDS AND BROAD SWEEPING BEACHES CURVING AROUND BETWEEN TWO HEADLANDS THAT SIT LIKE GIANT CRAB PINCERS FACING OUT INTO THE WARM 'ULF 3TREAM AMIDST THE CRASHING !TLANTIC 4HE SOUTHERNMOST OF THESE 3T !NNS (EAD OFFERS CALM EAST FACING SANDS AT $ALE SUNNY EXPANSES OF SOUTH FACING BEACH AT -ARLOES AND WILDER WEST FACING SANDS AT -USSEL WICK &ROM -ARTINS (AVEN BOATS DEPART FOR THE OFFSHORE ISLANDS OF 3KOMER 3KOKHOLM AND 'RASSHOLM 4HE GOLDEN SANDS OF THE MAIN SCOOP OF 3T "RIDES "AY ARE BACKED BY TEEMING POPULAR HOLIDAY VILLAGES SUCH AS ,ITTLE (AVEN "ROAD (AVEN AND .EWGALE &ROM HERE THE LACERATED COAST VEERS WEST AS 3T $AVIDS PENINSULA THE STUN NING CLIFFS INTERRUPTED ONLY BY OCCASIONAL GASHES OF SAND *UST NORTH OF 3T .ONS "AY THE TINY CATHEDRAL CITY OF 3T $AVIDS FOUNDED IN THE SIXTH CENTURY BY 7ALES PATRON SAINT IS A JUSTIlED HIGHLIGHT 2OOKS AND CROWS CIRCLE ABOVE THE IMPRESSIVE RUINS OF THE HUGE "ISHOPS 0ALACE SITTING BENEATH THE DELICATE BULK OF THE CATHEDRAL THE MOST IMPRESSIVE IN 7ALES 4HE 3T $AVIDS PENINSULA MORE WINDSWEPT AND ELEMENTAL THAN ANY OTHER PART OF 0EMBROKESHIRE TAPERS OUT JUST WEST OF THE CITY AT THE POPULAR 7HITESANDS "AY AND THE HAMLET OF 3T *USTINIANS STARING OUT OVER THE CRAGS OF 2AMSEY )SLAND 3UMMER TRANSPORT AROUND THE REGION IS EXCELLENT COURTESY OF THE 0EMBRO KESHIRE #OASTAL "US 3ERVICE WHICH OFFERS ASSORTED SHUTTLE BUSES WITH ROUTES CENTRED ON -ILFORD (AVEN AND 3T $AVIDS 4IMETABLES ARE PUBLISHED ONLINE WWWPEMBROKESHIREGREENWAYSCOUK AND IN THE NATIONAL PARKS FREE NEWS PAPER #OAST TO #OAST
4065)8& 4 58"- & 4
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%BMF .BSMPFTBOEUIFPGGTIPSFJTMBOET 4HE TINY VILLAGE OF $!,% FOURTEEN MILES WEST OF (AVERFORDWEST HUDDLES BEHIND A SHINGLE BEACH AND AT THE HEAD OF A HUGE BITE OUT OF THE COAST "LIGHTED BY VIEWS OF OIL RElNERIES $ALE IS NOT AN ESPECIALLY ATTRACTIVE VILLAGE BUT ITS SHELTERED EAST FACING SHORE MAKES IT AN EXTREMELY POPULAR YACHTING AND WATER SPORTS CENTRE !CTIVITIES ARE FOCUSED ON THE BEACHSIDE SHACK OF 7EST 7ALES 7IND 3URF AND 3AILING WWWSURFDALECOUK WHICH OFFERS LESSONS !PRILn/CT an PER HALF DAY AT VARIOUS LEVELS IN WINDSURlNG SURlNG SAILING AND KAYAKING 7ITH ADEQUATE PROlCIENCY YOU CAN RENT EQUIPMENT A BASIC WINDSURlNG RIG COSTS a A HALF DAY A SUPERIOR ENSEMBLE a AND A KAYAK a 4HERES "" ACCOMMODATION ON THE $ALE WATERFRONT AT THE COMFORTABLE 2ICHMOND (OUSE WHICH ALSO HAS AN UPSCALE BUNKHOUSE WITH BEDS FOR a !LTERNATIVES INCLUDE 0OINT &ARM "" WWWPOINTFARMINFO CLOSED $EC *AN TEN MINUTES WALK ALONG THE SHORE SOUTH OF $ALE WITH LOVELY ROOMS SEA VIEWS AND EXCELLENT FOOD AND HOSPITALITY AND THE LUXURIOUS !LLENBROOK WWWUKWORLD NETALLENBROOK A CHARMING RICHLY FURNISHED COUNTRY HOUSE CLOSE TO THE BEACH %ATING AND DRINKING IS LIMITED TO THE $ALE "OATHOUSE A GOOD VALUE
4065)8& 4 58"- & 4
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SUMMER ONLY GREASY SPOON THATS USUALLY FULL OF BOARD RIDERS THE YACHT CLUBS 4HE -OORINGS FOR GOOD RESTAURANT MEALS ON THE WATERFRONT AND THE ADJACENT 'RIFlN )NN FOR REAL ALES 4HE CALM WATERS OF $ALE ARE DECEPTIVE AND AS YOU HEAD SOUTH TOWARDS 3T !NNS (EAD THE WIND SPEED WHIPS UP WITH WAVES AND TIDES TO MATCH "LASTED BY SOME OF THE HIGHEST WINDS IN "RITAIN GALE FORCE ON AN AVERAGE OF DAYS PER YEAR AND BUFFETED BY EXTRAORDINARILY STRONG TIDE RACES THE COASTLINE HERE OFFERS INVIGORATING WALKING 4HIS WAS THE SITE OF THE 3EA %MPRESS WRECK THOUGH THANKFULLY ALL VISIBLE REMINDERS OF THE OIL SLICK HAVE NOW VANISHED 4HE #OAST 0ATH STICKS TIGHT TO THE UNDULATING COASTLINE PASSING TINY BAYS EN ROUTE TO THE 3T !NNS LIGHTHOUSE 4UCKED IN THE EASTERN LEE OF 3T !NNS (EAD IS -ILL "AY WHERE (ENRY 6)) LANDED IN MARCHING THE BREADTH OF HIS NATIVE 7ALES AND GATHERING A LOYAL ARMY TO FACE 2ICHARD ))) AT "OSWORTH &IELD 4HE COAST TURNS AND HEADS NORTH FROM 3T !NNS (EAD REACHING THE SANDSTONE BACKED 7EST $ALE "AY LESS THAN A MILE FROM $ALE ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE PENINSULA 7ARNINGS ARE USUALLY GIVEN ABOUT THE UNPREDICTABILITY OF THE CURRENTS AND HIDDEN ROCKS IN THE SEA HERE .BSMPFTBOEBSPVOE
! MILE NORTH OF $ALE THE VILLAGE OF -!2,/%3 BACKS THE GREAT SANDY CURVE OF -ARLOES 3ANDS BEST KNOWN FOR ITS STUNNING CLIFFS OF GREY GOLD AND PURPLE FOLDS OF ROCK ALTERNATE LAYERS OF GREY SHALE AND OLD RED SANDSTONE!T 4HREE #HIMNEYS TWO THIRDS OF THE WAY ALONG THE BEACH THREE VERTICAL LINES OF HARD 3ILURIAN SANDSTONE AND MUDSTONE WERE FORMED HORIZONTALLY AND FORCED UP BY ANCIENT EARTH MOVEMENTS 4HERE WAS A FOURTH hCHIMNEYv WHICH CRUMBLED IN A SEVERE STORM IN 4HE BEACH IS CROWNED AT ITS WESTERN END BY 'ATEHOLM )SLAND ACCESSIBLE AT MID TIDE AND BELOW MOST EASILY ACCESSED FROM THE 9(! HOSTEL n SEE BELOW A HUNDRED YARDS BEFORE WHICH IS A LARGE .ATIONAL 4RUST CAR PARK /VER )RON !GE HUT CIRCLES POTTERY AND PIECES OF JEWELLERY HAVE BEEN FOUND HERE ON WHAT IS THOUGHT TO HAVE BEEN AN ANCIENT MONASTIC COMMUNITY 4ODAY 'ATEHOLM IS POWERFULLY ATMOSPHERIC AND A GREAT PLACE TO CAMP WILD IF YOURE PREPARED TO CARRY YOUR OWN WATER AND UNDERTAKE THE TRICKY ACCESS SCRAMBLE HEAD AROUND THE LEFT SIDE AS YOU LOOK AT THE ISLAND .EXT UP IS -!24).3 (!6%. A CLUSTER OF HOUSES AND A CAR PARK ON A SLIM NECK OF THE PENINSULA THAT FACES OUT TO 3KOMER ISLAND )NEXPLICABLY BYPASSED BY THE #OAST 0ATH IS THE SUBLIME HEADLAND OF $EER 0ARK THE VERY WESTERN TIP OF THIS PENINSULA REACHED BY A SMALL GATEWAY IN THE WALL JUST BEYOND THE CAR PARK 4HE PARK HAS NO DEER AND PROBABLY NEVER DID BUT PATHS RADIATE OUT ALL OVER THE HEADLAND ALL WITH STUNNING VIEWS OVER THE OFFSHORE ISLANDS AND 3T "RIDES "AY IF YOU CAN CATCH A DECENT SUNSET HERE YOULL SEE NONE BETTER 4HERES A SMALL 7ILD LIFE 4RUST OF 3OUTH AND 7EST 7ALES INFORMATION POINT AT -ARTINS (AVEN THE PRINCIPAL DEPARTURE POINT FOR BOATS TO THE OFFSHORE ISLANDS OF 3KOMER 3KOKHOLM AND 'RASSHOLM SEE BELOW .ORTH OF $EER 0ARK THE #OAST 0ATH CONTINUES LESS THAN HALF A MILE FROM THE VILLAGE OF -ARLOES ROUND TO -USSELWICK 3ANDS A BEAUTIFUL AND UNSPOILT BEACH THAT CAN BE DANGEROUS AT HIGH TIDE &URTHER NORTH ALONG THE PENINSULA IS THE NARROW 3T "RIDES (AVEN A TINY SHELTERED INLET WITH A SMALL BEACH AT THE END OF THE LANE THAT PETERS OUT BY THE TINY CHAPEL OF 3T "RIDE 4HERE ARE SOME GOOD ROCK POOLS AROUND THE BEACH 4HERES NOT MUCH TO THE VILLAGE OF -ARLOES BUT YOU CAN STAY AT THE CENTRAL ,OBSTER 0OT )NN ABOVE -ARLOES ONLY REAL RESTAURANT WHICH UNSURPRISINGLY SERVES UP A GOOD RANGE OF SEAFOOD 4HERE ARE SEVERAL CAMPSITES AMONG THEM %AST (OOK &ARM a PER PERSON A MILE BACK
FROM -ARTINS (AVEN 4HE -ARLOES 3ANDS 9(! HOSTEL OPEN -AY TO MID 3EPT CONSISTS OF A SERIES OF CONVERTED FARM BUILDINGS OVER LOOKING THE NORTHERN END OF -ARLOES 3ANDS WITH a BUNKS 4LPNFS 4LPLIPMNBOE(SBTTIPMN 4065)8& 4 58"- & 4
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/NE OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF THIS STRETCH OF COAST IS A BOAT TRIP OUT AROUND THE OFFSHORE ISLANDS THOUGH THE ONLY ONE DAY TRIPPERS CAN LAND ON IS 3KOMER A ACRE mAT TOPPED ISLAND THAT DOMINATES THE NEAR HORIZON )T HAS THE lNEST SEA BIRD COLONIES IN NORTHERN %UROPE THE REMAINS OF HUNDREDS OF ANCIENT HUT CIRCLES A STONE CIRCLE COLLAPSED DEFENSIVE RAMPARTS AND SETTLEMENT SYSTEMS AND A "RONZE !GE STANDING STONE KNOWN AS (AROLDS 3TONE NEAR THE NARROW NECK WHERE BOATS LAND 4HE STARS OF 3KOMER ARE THE PLUS -ANX SHEARWATERS WHICH ONLY LEAVE THEIR BURROWS AT NIGHT THOUGH THERES A LIVE VIDEO OF ONE IN A BURROW FOR DAY VISITORS TO SEE 4HERE ARE ALSO PUFlNS BEST -AY TO EARLY *ULY GULLS GUILLEMOTS STORM PETRELS CORMORANTS SHAGS AND KITTIWAKES ,AND BIRDS INCLUDE BUZZARDS SKYLARKS JACKDAWS CHOUGH OWLS AND PEREGRINES )F YOU HEAD TO THE NORTH OF 3KOMER FACING OUT OVER THE 'ARLAND 3TONE THERES A GOOD CHANCE OF SEEING BASKING GREY SEALS ESPECIALLY IN THE AUTUMN )N SPRING AND EARLY SUMMER WILD mOWERS CARPET THE ISLAND 4WO MILES SOUTH OF 3KOMER IS THE ACRE ISLAND OF 3KOKHOLM WHOSE WARM RED SANDSTONE CLIFFS ARE A SHARP CONTRAST TO 3KOMERS GREY SEVERITY "RITAINS lRST BIRD OBSERVATORY WAS FOUNDED HERE IN THE S AND THE ISLAND IS STILL RICH IN BIRDLIFE 3IX MILES WEST OF 3KOMER THE TINY ISLET OF 'RASSHOLM RESEMBLES A SMALL ICING COVERED CAKE THE hICINGv IS IN FACT A SWARMING MASS OF GANNETS ONE OF THE LARGEST COLONIES IN THE NORTHERN HEMISPHERE THAT COVERS WELL OVER HALF THE ISLAND "OAT TRIPS TO 3KOMER ARE RUN BY $ALE 3AILING OR WWWDALE SAILINGCOUK WHO OPERATE LANDING TRIPS ON THE
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4065)8& 4 58"- & 4
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$ALE 0RINCESS FROM -ARTINS (AVEN !PRILn/CT 4UESn3UN BANK HOLIDAYS AM AM NOON a GIVING YOU SEVERAL HOURS TO EXPLORE THE ISLAND 4HEY ALSO HAVE ONE HOUR ROUND THE ISLAND CRUISES 4UES 7ED 4HURS 3UN AT AM AM PM AND PM a AND A TWO HOUR EVENING TRIP THATS GREAT FOR SEA BIRDS -AY TO LATE *ULY 4UES &RI AT PM a $ALE 3AILINGS TRIPS AROUND 'RASSHOLM ARE EITHER ON THE $ALE 0RINCESS FROM -ARTINS (AVEN &RI AT NOON HR a OR FROM $ALE ON ITS FAST RIGID INmATABLE 3EA 3AFARI TRIP DAILY PM HR a $ALE IS ALSO THE DEPARTURE POINT FOR 3EA 3AFARI TRIPS AROUND 3KOMER AND 3KOKHOLM DAILY AM PM PM HR a "IRDERS AND THOSE IN SEARCH OF A BIT OF SOLITUDE MIGHT FANCY FULL BOARD ACCOM MODATION ON 3KOKHOLM -AY TO MID 3EPT NIGHTS a NIGHTS a NIGHTSa ALL INCLUSIVE OF BOAT TRIP ORGANIZED BY THE 7ILDLIFE 4RUST OF 3OUTH 7EST 7ALES &ROM %ASTER THE 4RUST WILL ALSO BE OFFER ING SELF CATERING ACCOMMODATION ON 3KOMER CALL FOR DETAILS
-JUUMF)BWFOUP4PMWB 3TEEP STREETS DESCEND TO THE SHELTERED STONY BEACH OF ,)44,% (!6%. lVE MILES NORTH OF -ARLOES A PICTURESQUE OLD lSHING VILLAGE AND FORMER COAL PORT THATS EXTREMELY POPULAR WITH DIVERS AND SWIMMERS IN SUMMER !T LOW TIDE WALKS ALONG THE SHORE TOWARDS "ROAD (AVEN ARE SUPERB YOU CAN EXPLORE CAVES AND ROCK POOLS OR JUST ENJOY THE FULL WESTERLY SKIES !CCOMMODATION IS BEST JUST ABOVE THE VILLAGE AT THE WELCOMING "OWER &ARM 4HE MOST NOTEWORTHY PLACE TO EAT IS 4HE .EST "ISTRO IN THE CENTRE OF ,ITTLE (AVEN WHERE YOU CAN ENJOY FRESH lSH DISHES FOR ABOUT a 4HE #ASTLE )NN DOES VERY GOOD SEAFOOD DISHES AND HAS OUTSIDE TABLES OVERLOOK ING THE BAY #SPBE)BWFOBOE%SVJETUPO)BWFO
! MILE TO THE NORTH BRASH POPULAR "2/!$ (!6%. IS A DRAMATIC CONTRAST TO ITS UNASSUMING NEIGHBOUR ESPECIALLY IN SUMMER WITH CARS CRUISING ITS WATERFRONT AND HOLIDAY MAKERS SPILLING OUT OF ITS PUBS 3TILL IT HAS A WIDE BEACH FRINGED BY lSSURED AND SHATTERED CLIFFS AND YOU MIGHT WANT TO RENT A WINDSURFER FROM (AVEN 3PORTS TUITION AVAILABLE ON -ARINE 2OAD JUST BEHIND THE 'ALLEON )NN 4HE MODERN SPACIOUS "ROAD (AVEN 9(! HOSTEL OR BROADHAVEN YHAORGUK CLOSED .OVn&EB WITH a BUNKS IS ALMOST ON THE SEAFRONT AT THE NORTHERN END OF THE VILLAGE WHILE THERES "" ACCOMMODATION A MILE INLAND AT "ELMONT "ARN WWW BELMONTBARNCOUK WITH SEA VIEWS AND USE OF A KITCHENETTE 4HE #OAST 0ATH CUTS INLAND FROM "ROAD (AVEN TO THE QUIET SANDY BEACH AT $25)$34/. (!6%. HEMMED IN BY STEEP CLIFFS AND REACHED ALONG SMALL PATHS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SHARPLY SLOPING LANE FROM "ROAD (AVEN 4HE EASI EST ACCESS IS FROM THE UNIQUE $RUIDSTONE (OTEL WWW DRUIDSTONECOUK n A RAMBLING AND EASY GOING PLACE WITH A QUIRKY ARRAY OF "" ROOMS SOME WITH SUPERB SEA VIEWS SELF CATERING COTTAGES INCLUDING AN OLD CIRCULAR CROQUET PAVILION AND A CELLAR BAR THAT SPILLS OUT ONTO THE CLIFF TOPS 2OOMS ARE FREQUENTLY BOOKED MONTHS IN ADVANCE ESPECIALLY AT WEEKENDS THOUGH YOU SHOULD STILL DROP BY FOR THE VARIED MEALS EXPECT ANYTHING FROM *AMAICAN JERK CHICKEN a TO SEA BASS IN VERMOUTH a *UST BEFORE THE HOTEL "UMPY ,ANE HEADS INLAND FOR A FEW HUNDRED YARDS TO THE TINY HAMLET OF $25)$34/. WHERE YOU CAN CAMP AT 3HORTLANDS
WWWBUMPYLANECOUK a PER PERSON A SMALL AND FRIENDLY CAMPSITE ON A RARE BREEDS ORGANIC FARM WITH SHOWERS AND GREAT VIEWS OF 3T "RIDES "AY )T ALSO HAS A LOW ALLERGEN SELF CATERING UNIT GENERALLY LET BY THE WEEK OR FOR SHORT BREAKS /PMUPO)BWFOBOE/FXHBMF 4065)8& 4 58"- & 4
]4U#SJEFT#BZ
! MILE ALONG THE COAST ./,4/. (!6%. IS LITTLE MORE THAN A PICTURESQUE CLUSTER OF HOUSES AND CARAVANS AROUND A SHELTERED SHINGLE COVE 0ART OF THE TRACKS OF A LONG DEFUNCT TRAMWAY THAT BROUGHT COAL DOWN TO THE JETTY FROM THE NEARBY 4REFRANE COLLIERY CAN BE SEEN HERE 4HE NEXT BAY NORTH IS THE VAST WEST FACING .EWGALE 3ANDS VIRTUALLY UNTOUCHED AT ITS SOUTHERN END BUT POPULAR WITH FAMILIES AND SURFERS AROUND THE UNINSPIRING VILLAGE OF .%7'!,% (ERE THERES A FAMILY CAMPGROUND THE .EWSURF SURF SHOP WWWNEWSURFCOUK WHICH RENTS GEAR AND THE $UKE OF %DINBURGH PUB )MMEDIATELY NORTH "RANDY "ROOK DISGORGES ONTO THE BEACH MARKING THE BOUNDARY OF h,ITTLE %NGLAND "EYOND 7ALESv SEE BOX ON P AND THE EXTENT OF .ORMAN COLONIZATION OF 0EMBROKESHIRE )NCONVENIENTLY SITED TWO MILES INLAND FROM THE BEACH THE 0ENYCWM 9(! HOSTEL OR PENYCWM YHAORGUK THE 5+S lRST lVE STAR HOSTEL HAS A COUPLE OF DOUBLE EN SUITE ROOMS AND DORMS a n MEALS ARE AVAILABLE IF BOOKED IN ADVANCE 4PMWB
"EYOND .EWGALE THE COAST TURNS WEST RISING ABRUPTLY TO CRAGGY CLIFFS THAT MAKE THIS A WILDER MORE #ELTIC LANDSCAPE THAN THAT OF SOUTHERN 0EMBROKESHIRE 4HE #OAST 0ATH FROM .EWGALE TO 3/,6! THREE MILES WEST IS MARVELLOUS WITH EASY CLIFFTOP WALKING MAGNIlCENT VIEWS OVER THE RIPPLED COAST AND IN THE LEE OF THE $INAS &ACH HEADLAND A SECLUDED SANDY BEACH AT 0ORTHMYNAWYD 3OLVA ITSELF IS A TOURISTY PICTURE POSTCARD VILLAGE AT THE TOP OF AN INLET RUNNING DOWN TO 'WADN BEACH !BOVE THIS THE 'RIBIN (EADLAND BETWEEN THE VALLEYS OF THE 3OLVA AND 'RIBIN RIVERS AFFORDS FANTASTIC VIEWS AND HAS AN IMPOSING )RON !GE EARTHWORK ON ITS SUMMIT )N 3OLVA ITS BETTER TO STAY AT THE HEAD OF THE INLET IN THE PRETTY ,OWER 6ILLAGE WHICH HAS THE EN SUITE #ALEBS #OTTAGE ON THE MAIN ROAD ALMOST OPPOSITE THE HOMELY /LD 0RINTING (OUSE WHICH SERVES CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST )N THE UPPER VILLAGE AND ABOUT HALF A MILE TOWARDS 3T $AVIDS ON 3T "RIDES 6IEW IS THE LOVELY 0ENDINAS WWWPENDINASCOUK WITH GREAT SEA VIEWS 4HE /LD 0HARMACY -AIN 3T WWWTHEOLDPHARMACYCOUK SERVES BY FAR THE BEST EVENING MEALS EXPECT THE LIKES OF 4HAI lSH SOUP a FOLLOWED BY A COUNTRY CASSOULET a )F YOUR BUDGETS TIGHTER TRY THE HEARTY LOCAL SPECIALITIES AT THE /LD 0RINTING (OUSE OR 7ILLIAMS OF 3OLVA BOTH ON -AIN 3TREET OR THERE ARE PUB MEALS AT 4HE 3HIP ALSO GOOD FOR A DRINK
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STILL BE SEEN AT THE BOTTOM OF THE TURQUOISE RIVER CREEK 4ODAY COMMERCIAL TRAFlC HAS LONG GONE REPLACED BY A YACHTIES HAVEN 2UNNING DUE WEST OUT OF 3T $AVIDS 'OAT 3TREET DUCKS PAST THE RUINS OF THE "ISHOPS 0ALACE AND OVER THE ROCKY PLATEAU FOR TWO MILES TO THE HARBOUR AT 34 *534).)!.3 LITTLE MORE THAN A RUINED CHAPEL LIFEBOAT STATION AND TICKET HUT FOR THE FREQUENT BOATS OVER TO 2AMSEY )SLAND SEE BELOW 7HITESANDS "AY 0ORTH -AWR TWO MILES TO THE NORTH AND REACHED FROM 3T $AVIDS VIA THE " OFF THE &ISHGUARD ROAD IS LINED WITH CAMPSITES AND CAFÏS AND AS THE BEACH FACES WEST SURlNG IS GOOD 4HE SPECTACULARLY BEAUTIFUL 0ORTHMELGAN A NARROW SLIP OF COVE REACHED BY A lFTEEN MINUTE WALK NORTH WEST ALONG THE #OAST 0ATH FROM 7HITESANDS CAR PARK IS FAR LESS CROWDED LARGELY
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,ESS THAN TWO MILES LONG THE DUAL HUMPED PLATEAU OF 2AMSEY )SLAND HAS BEEN UNDER THE ABLE CARE OF THE 230" SINCE AND IS QUITE ENCHANTING "IRDS OF PREY CIRCLE THE SKIES ABOVE IT BUT THE ISLAND IS BETTER KNOWN FOR THE TENS OF THOU SANDS OF SEA BIRDS THAT NOISILY CROWD THE SHEER CLIFFS ON THE WESTERN SIDE /N THE BEACHES SEALS LAZE SLOPPILY BELOW THE PATHS WORN BY A HERD OF RED DEER 4HERES SOMETHING TO SEE ALL YEAR ROUND BUT SPRING IS GREAT FOR NESTING BIRDS ESPECIALLY PUFlNS AND SHEARWATERS AND AUTUMN FOR SEALS WITH THEIR PUPS 4HE ONLY OPERATOR THAT LETS YOU LAND ON THE ISLAND IS 4HOUSAND )SLANDS %XPE DITIONS BASED ON #ROSS 3QUARE IN 3T $AVIDS !PRILn/CT DAILY WWWTHOUSANDISLANDSCOUK a BOATS DEPART AT AM AND PM AND RETURN AT AND PM ALLOWING YOU UP TO SIX HOURS EXPLORATION $URING THE SPRINGTIME NESTING SEASON WHEN YOURE NOT ALLOWED TO LAND YOU SEE MORE FROM BOATS WHICH JUST CIRCLE THE ISLAND WITHOUT LANDING 4RY 4HOUSAND )SLANDS EXCELLENT EVENING 0UFlN 3HEARWATER 7ATCH a OR THE ROUND 2AMSEY CRUISES OFFERED BY 6OYAGES OF $ISCOVERY ALSO IN 3T $AVIDS AT (IGH 3T OR WWWRAMSEYISLANDCOUK HR a HR EVENING TRIP a WHICH USES FAST RIGID INmATABLES TO FACILITATE DUCKING INTO CAVES 4HE LATTER COMPANY ALSO RUNS A TRIP AROUND 'RASSHOLM )SLAND SEE P HR a 4HESE BOATS ALL LEAVE FROM 3T *USTINIANS WHILE SEVERAL OTHER COMPANIES RUN SIMILAR TRIPS FROM 7HITESANDS "EACH PICK UP mYERS AROUND TOWN
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! QUIET LANE LEAVES 3T $AVIDS AND RUNS PARALLEL TO THE COAST ACROSS THE ROCKY 0EMBROKESHIRE PLATEAU WHERE THE FEW TREES HAVE BEEN BLASTED INTO SPOOKY SHAPES BY THE RELENTLESS GUSTS OFF THE )RISH 3EA ! SMALL LANE TURNS LEFT lVE MILES FROM 3T $AVIDS AND TUMBLES DOWN INTO THE BLEAK HAMLET OF !"%2%)$$) AT THE HEAD OF ITS STONY BLACK SAND BEACH 9OU CAN lND TINY FOSSILIZED ANIMALS IN
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THE SHALE OF THE BEACH WHICH CAN BECOME EXTREMELY CROWDED IN MIDSUMMER !T THE BACK OF THE BEACH ARE REMAINS OF WORKERS HUTS INDUSTRIAL UNITS AND A TRAMWAY THAT ONCE CLIMBED OVER THE HILL TO 0ORTHGAIN ALL PART OF THE VILLAGE SLATE QUARRY THAT CLOSED IN 4HE QUARRY ITSELF WAS DYNAMITED FOR SAFETY REASONS PRODUCING AN INLAND LAGOON WHERE THE SEAWATER COMBINED WITH THE MINERALS HAS TURNED A VIOLENT SHADE OF BLUE 4HE #WMWDIG 7ATER 'UEST (OUSE SEE P IS JUST HALF A MILE INLAND 4HE LANE PARALLEL TO THE COAST PASSES THE HAMLET OF #WMWDIG 7ATER AND LEADS TO TINY ,,!.2()!. WHERE A LEFT TURN TAKES YOU A MILE DOWN TO THE RAMBLING VILLAGE GREEN OF 0/24('!). 4HIS FASCINATING OLD PORT GREW UP AROUND ITS SLATE WORKS THE STUMPY REMAINS OF WHICH TOGETHER WITH AN OLD BRICK WORKS LIME KILN AND EERIE RUINS OF WORKERS COTTAGES ARE HUDDLED AROUND THE TINY QUAY )T ALSO HAS A COUPLE OF SMALL ART GALLERIES AND THE EXCELLENT 3LOOP )NN AN EIGHTEENTH CENTURY STONE HOUSE WITH GOOD BEER AND FOOD AND NUMEROUS PHOTO GRAPHS OF THE PORT IN ITS SEPIA HEYDAY 4HERES ALSO 4HE 3HED CLOSED -ON A TEAROOM AND CLASSY EVENING BISTRO WHERE a WILL GET YOU THREE COURSES 4HE MENU USUALLY INCLUDES lSH CAUGHT ON THE ANGLING AND POTTING BOAT TRIPS THAT RUN FROM 0ORTHGAIN (ARBOUR ALSO WWW PORTHGAINBOATSNDOCOUK FROM a 7ITHIN WALKING DISTANCE OF 0ORTHGAIN IS A BRILLIANT INDEPENDENT HOSTEL #AERHAFOD ,ODGE WWW CAERHAFODCOUK ON THE NORTH SIDE OF ,LANRHIAN )T IS SELF CATERING WITH FOUR BEDDED ROOMS SHEETS SUPPLIED ALL FOR a 4HERE ARE ALSO a BUNKS AT THE 4RElN 9(! HOSTEL RESERVATIONS YHAORGUK A COUPLE OF MILES EAST AT 4RElN 4REVINE 4HE COASTAL LANE CONTINUES EAST TO !"%2#!34%,, PAST THE YEAR OLD #ARREG 3AMSON CROMLECH BURIAL CHAMBER AT ,ONGHOUSE PRECARIOUSLY TOPPED BY A SIXTEEN FOOT CAPSTONE )F YOURE WALKING CONTINUE PAST THE CROMLECH AND DOWN TO THE COAST PATH TO THE ATTRACTIVE AND POPULAR HARBOUR OF !BERCASTELL ONCE USED FOR THE EXPORT OF LIMESTONE AND COAL &ROM !BERCASTELL ONE OF THE MOST SCENIC PARTS OF THE #OAST 0ATH ZIGZAGS EAST ALONG THE WILD VERTIGINOUS CLIFFS TO THE POINT AT 4RWYN ,LWYNOG ABOUT TWO MILES AWAY
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'ETTING AROUND THE LARGELY RURAL TERRITORY OF THE "RECON "EACONS .ATIONAL 0ARK CAN BE DIFlCULT !BERGAVENNY IS THE ONLY TOWN WITH A TRAIN STATION THOUGH -ERTHYR 4YDlL ON THE SOUTHERN mANK OF THE PARK IS WELL CONNECTED BY RAIL TO #ARDIFF "USES ARE A MUCH BETTER BET WITH RELATIVELY FREQUENT SERVICES n A DAY IS COMMON ALONG THE MAJOR ROUTES A SMATTERING OF SERVICES ONLY RUN ON CERTAIN DAYS 4HE MAIN ROUTES ARE FROM !BERGAVENNY TO "RECON AND THENCE ,IBANUS 3TOREY !RMS -ERTHYR AND #ARDIFF 8 "RECON TO 4ALGARTH (AY ON 7YE AND (EREFORD AND "RECON TO 3WANSEA VIA #RAIG Y NOS THE $AN YR OGOF SHOWCAVES DETAILED LISTINGS OF SERVICES IN THE AREA ARE CONTAINED IN THE FREE $ISCOVER THE "RECON "EACONS LEAmET AVAILABLE FROM TOURIST OFlCES AND BUS COMPANIES 4HE RELATIVELY COMPACT NATURE OF THE REGION THE PROFUSION OF NARROW LANES AND THE MANY OPPORTUNITIES TO GET OFF ROAD MAKE THIS A GREAT PLACE TO TRAVEL BY BIKE THERE ARE RENTAL OUTLETS IN "RECON !BERGAVENNY AND (AY ON 7YE 4HOUGH THE BEST OF THE "RECON "EACONS ACCOMMODATION IS LISTED IN THIS GUIDE THERE ARE PLENTY MORE LOW BUDGET OPTIONS MOST LISTED IN TWO BOOKLETS AVAILABLE FROM AREA TOURIST OFlCES #AMPING ON &ARMS P LISTS AROUND THIRTY LOW COST AND FREE SITES SCATTERED THROUGHOUT THE PARK WHILE "UNKHOUSE !CCOM MODATION IN THE "RECON "EACONS FREE COVERS TWO DOZEN BUNKHOUSES n MOST COST an A NIGHT )F YOURE INTERESTED IN SELF CATERING ACCOMMODATION THE BEST LOCALLY ARE "RECON "EACONS (OLIDAY #OTTAGES WWW BRECONCOTTAGESCOM AND THE !BERGAVENNY &ARM (OLIDAYS 'ROUP WWW AFHGCOUK
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THAT SEEM TO HAVE BEEN HEWN FROM ONE ROCK +NOWN FOR THEIR VIVID QUALITY OF LIGHT THE HILLS OF THE "EACONS DISAPPEAR AND RE EMERGE FROM HAZY BLANKETS OF CLOUD WITH SHAFTS OF SUN SHARPENING LUSH GREEN lELDS OUT OF A DULLENED PATCHWORK #OVERING SQUARE MILES THE NATIONAL PARK STRADDLES SOUTHERN 0OWYS AND NORTHERN -ONMOUTHSHIRE FROM WEST TO EAST 4HE MOST REMOTE PARTS ARE TO THE WEST WHERE THE VAST OPEN TERRAIN OF &FOREST &AWR AND THE "LACK -OUNTAIN FORM MILES OF TUFTED MOORLAND AND BLEAK OFTEN DANGEROUS PEAKS TUMBLING DOWN TO THE POROUS LIMESTONE COUNTRY IN THE SOUTHWESTERN SECTION A ROCKY TERRAIN OF RIVERS DEEP CAVES AND SPLUTTERING WATERFALLS ESPECIALLY ATTRACTIVE AROUND THE VILLAGE OF 9STRADFELLTE AND IN THE CHASMS OF THE $AN YR OGOF CAVES 4O THE NORTHWEST LIE THE LONELY "LACK -OUNTAINS SEPARATED FROM THE "EACONS THEMSELVES BY THE -ONMOUTHSHIRE AND "RECON #ANAL WHICH FORGES A PASSAGE ALONG THE 5SK 6ALLEY "UILT AROUND THE BEGINNING OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY TO SUPPORT COAL MINING IRON ORE AND LIMESTONE QUARRYING THE CANAL IS A MARVELLOUS FEAT OF ENGINEERING SUCCESSFULLY STEERING A MILE LOCK FREE STRETCH THE LONGEST IN "RITAIN THROUGH SOME OF THE MOST MOUNTAINOUS TERRAIN IN 7ALES 3PREADING BACK FROM THE CANALS BANKS ARE THE REGIONS MAIN RESIDENTIAL AREAS AS WELL AS THE MAJORITY OF ITS HOTELS AND GUESTHOUSES SO ITS QUITE LIKELY THAT THIS IS WHERE YOULL END UP STAYING TOWNS SUCH AS THE STURDY COUNTY SEAT OF "RECON OR THE OVERGROWN VILLAGE OF #RICKHOWELL WITH ITS BEAUTIFUL DOUBLE CASTLE AT NEARBY 4RETOWER SET AMID ALMOST IMPOSSIBLY GREEN HILLS ALL MAKE AGREEABLE BASES .ESTLED UNDER THE "LACK -OUNTAINS !BERGAVENNY MAKES AN IDEAL BASE FOR EXPLORING THESE BROODING PEAKS AS WELL AS THE "EACONS THEMSELVES AND EVEN THE EASTERN 6ALLEYS AROUND "LAENAFON AND 0ONTYPOOL ,YING UNDERNEATH THE NORTHERN BLUFF OF THE "LACK -OUNTAINS IS THE BIBLIOPHILES BORDER TOWN OF (AY ON 7YE AT THE POINT WHERE THE MOUNTAINS DISSOLVE INTO THE SOFTER CONTOURS OF 2ADNORSHIRE
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4HE ENTIRE WESTERN HALF OF THE "RECON "EACONS .ATIONAL 0ARK IS TAKEN UP BY THE WESTERN "EACONS A REGION COMPRISING THE BLEAK UPLANDS OF "LACK -OUNTAIN AND &FOREST &AWR TOGETHER WITH THE SPARSELY POPULATED VALLEYS IN BETWEEN )T IS IN THE VALLEYS WHERE MOST VISITORS CONGREGATE CHIEmY AT THE $AN YR OGOF SHOWCAVES WHERE SOME OF 7ALES lNEST LIMESTONE FORMATIONS ARE GIVEN THE SON ET LUMIÒRE TREATMENT 4HAT THIS IS LIMESTONE COUNTRY IS EVIDENT EVERYWHERE CAVES SINK HOLES AND WATERFALLS DOT THE MAP MOST SPECTACULARLY AROUND THE HILLS TO THE EAST AT 9STRADFELLTE WHERE A VAST CAVERN SWALLOWS THE 2IVER -ELLTE ONLY TO SPEW IT OUT AGAIN IN TIME FOR A SERIES OF WATERFALLS ONE SO UNDERCUT THAT YOU CAN WALK BEHIND IT &ROM BOTH VALLEYS WONDROUSLY LONELY WALKS OR BIKE RIDES THREAD THEIR WAY UP TO THE MOORS AND OFFER INVIGORATING VIEWS ACROSS THE "EACONS
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4HE MOST WESTERLY EXPANSE OF UPLAND IN THE NATIONAL PARK IS KNOWN AS THE "LACK -OUNTAIN -YNYDD $DU RISING BETWEEN THE ! AND ! AT THE VERY WESTERN END OF THE "RECON "EACONS .ATIONAL 0ARK $ESPITE BEING NAMED IN THE SINGULAR THE hMOUNTAINv ACTUALLY COVERS AN UNPOPULATED RANGE OF BARREN SMOOTH HUMPED PEAKS THAT BREAK SUDDENLY AT ROCKY ESCARPMENTS TOWERING OVER QUIET STREAMS AND GLACIAL LAKES 4HE AREA PROVIDES THE MOST CHALLENGING AND EXHILARATING WALKING IN SOUTH 7ALES AND HAS LONG BEEN POPULAR WITH TRIP PERS FROM THE 6ALLEYS JUST A FEW MILES TO THE SOUTH 0ATHS CROSS THE WET WILD LANDSCAPE FROM $AN YR OGOF IN THE EAST AND FROM THE SOARING RUINS OF #ARREG #ENNEN #ASTLE JUST SHORT OF ,LANDEILO IN THE WEST /THER GOOD STARTING POINTS FOR FORAYS INTO THE OPEN "LACK -OUNTAIN UPLANDS ARE 4YHWNT NEAR 9STRADG YNLAIS IN THE SOUTH AND IN THE NORTH THE HAMLET OF ,,!.$$%53!.4 SEVEN MILES SOUTH OF ,LANDOVERY ALSO HOME TO A CHARMING 9(! HOSTEL AND CAMPSITE CLOSED .OVn*AN a IN THE FORMER VILLAGE PUB 4WO MILES WEST OF ,LANDDEUSANT YOU CAN CAMP AT THE PLEASANT 0ONT !BER )NN ON THE MAIN ! 4HE BEST WALK SEE BOX BELOW FROM ,LANDDEUSANT RUNS ALONG WOODED GULCHES AND MOORLAND BLUFFS TO THE TWIN GLACIAL LAKES OF ,LYN Y &AN &ACH AND ,LYN Y &AN &AWR ,LYN Y &AN &ACH FEATURES IN ONE OF 7ALES MOST OFT TOLD MYTHS OF A BEAUTIFUL MAIDEN TOGETHER WITH HER HERD OF MAGIC CATTLE WHO ROSE FROM THE LAKE TO MARRY A LOCAL FARMER
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4HE MAIDENS FATHER HAD SANCTIONED THE UNION ONLY ON THE CONDITION THAT IF THE FARMER STRUCK HIS DAUGHTER THREE TIMES SHE WOULD RETURN TO THE LAKE 3UCH OCCASIONS INADVERTENTLY OCCURRED THE lNAL BLOW BEING EITHER WHEN HE SLAMMED A GATE AND HIT HER OR WHEN HE SHOOK HER AT A FUNERAL FOR LAUGHING DEPENDING ON WHICH VERSION YOU HEAR 4HE MAIDEN SILENTLY LEFT THE MAN AND WITH HER CATTLE DISAPPEARED BENEATH THE LAKES ICY WATERS ONCE MORE
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#OMING SOUTH ON THE ! THE ROAD SOON DROPS INTO THE UPPER REACHES OF THE VALLEY OF THE !FON 4AWE 3WANSEAS RIVER 4HIS IS THE BEGINNING OF THE LIME STONE BELT AS SEEN IN THE HAMLET OF 'LYNTAWE AT THE $AN YR OGOF SHOWCAVES !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn-ARCH CALL FOR DETAILS WWWSHOWCAVESCOUK a /NLY DISCOVERED IN THEY CLAIM TO FORM THE LARGEST SYSTEM OF SUBTERRANEAN CAVERNS IN NORTHERN %UROPE .EW ATTRACTIONS AND A MASSIVE MARKETING CAMPAIGN HAVE TURNED THE COMPLEX INTO SOMETHING OF AN OVERBLOWN THEME PARK BUT THE EXTENT AND SIZE OF THE CAVERNS REMAINS TRULY AWE INSPIRING )N A SELF GUIDED TOUR THE PATH lRST LEADS YOU INTO THE $AN YR OGOF CAVE THE LONGEST SHOWCAVE IN "RITAIN AND A WARREN OF CAVERNS FRAMED BY STALACTITES AND FROTHY LIMESTONE DEPOSITS !LTHOUGH THE WHOLE CAVE IS KNOWN TO BE AROUND TEN MILES LONG YOULL BE STEERED AROUND A CIRCULAR ROUTE OF ABOUT A MILE AND A HALF "ACK OUTSIDE YOU PASS A DOWNBEAT RE CREATED )RON !GE hVILLAGEv AND WALK THROUGH A HIDEOUS PARK OF lBREGLASS DINOSAURS TO GET TO THE #ATHEDRAL #AVE A SUCCESSION OF SPOOKILY LIT CAVERNS THAT LEAD INTO THE hCATHEDRALv A HUGELY IMPRES SIVE FOOT LONG FOOT HIGH CAVE WHERE A CHEESY SON ET LUMIÒRE PERFORM ANCE PROVIDES UNNECESSARY DIVERSION 2EACHABLE VIA A PRECARIOUS PATH BEHIND THE DINOSAUR PARK IS "ONE #AVE THE THIRD AND lNAL CAVERN KNOWN TO HAVE BEEN INHABITED BY PREHISTORIC TRIBES WITH SOME HUMAN AND MANY ANIMAL SKELETONS FOUND HERE %LSEWHERE ON SITE THERES ALSO A SHORT DRY SKI SLOPE AND A PONY TREKKING CENTRE 5NLESS YOU WANT TO GET AN EARLY START ON THE CAVES OR ARE USING THEM AS A BASE FOR WALKING THERES LITTLE REASON TO STAY AT THE SITE THOUGH IT OFFERS SELF CATERING UNITS FROM a PER WEEK FOR A DOUBLE AND CAMPING a PER PERSON &OR a THERES A VERY BASIC CAMPING OPTION HALF A MILE NORTH AT -AES YR EGLWYS &ARM UP THE TRACK BEHIND THE CHURCH BY THE 4AFARN Y 'ARREG PUB "ETWEEN THERE AND THE SHOWCAVES THE 'WYN !RMS SERVES DECENT MEALS ! QUARTER OF A MILE SOUTH OF THE CAVE COMPLEX IS THE SPIKY NINETEENTH CENTURY #RAIG Y NOS #ASTLE EVENINGS WWW CRAIGYNOSCASTLECOM DORM BEDS a A GRAND FOLLY BUILT IN AND FANCI FULLY EXTENDED FROM WHEN IT WAS BOUGHT BY !DELINA 0ATTI THE CELEBRATED )TALO !MERICAN OPERA SINGER )N HER FORTY YEARS OF RESIDENCE SHE TURNED THE PLACE INTO A $ISNEYESQUE CASTLE EVEN ADDING A SCALED DOWN VERSION OF THE $RURY
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,ANE OPERA HOUSE FOR PERFORMANCES !FTER -S 0ATTIS REIGN #RAIG Y NOS SUFFERED DECADES OF CHRONIC NEGLECT UNTIL IT WAS BOUGHT IN THE MID S RENOVATED AND TURNED INTO AN ODDBALL HOTEL WITH ACCOMMODATION RANGING FROM a DORM BEDS UP TO A a BRIDAL SUITE AND ENTERTAINMENT VENUE /CCASIONAL CONCERTS IN THE OPERA HOUSE JAZZ AND BLUES IN THE BAR HISTORY AND GHOST TOURS AND AN EXCELLENT 3UNDAY CARVERY ARE AVAILABLE 3OME ACRES OF THE GROUNDS HAVE BEEN TURNED OVER TO THE "RECON "EACONS .ATIONAL 0ARK AND OPERATE AS #RAIG Y NOS #OUNTRY 0ARK UNRESTRICTED ENTRY 4HE CAR PARK aa FOR HOURS PLUS AND VISITOR CENTRE IS THE STARTING POINT FOR SIGNPOSTED AND LEAmETED WALKS AROUND A LANDSCAPED SITE ALONG THE BANKS OF THE YOUNG 2IVER 4AWE 3UCH WAS !DELINA 0ATTIS FAME AND INmUENCE SHE EVEN DEMANDED HER OWN PRIVATE WAITING ROOM UP AT THE LITTLE RAILWAY STATION NOW SEMI DERELICT AT 0%.79,,4 A MILE ABOVE THE MAIN ROAD TO THE EAST 4HE HAMLET IS SURROUNDED BY A MOONSCAPE OF QUARRIES AND LIMESTONE OUTCROPS THAT MAKES FOR SUPERB WALKING OR BIKING )T IS ALSO THE (1 OF THE 3OUTH 7ALES #AVING #LUB WWWSWCCORGUK lRST PORT OF CALL FOR QUERIES ABOUT EXPLORING THE MANY LOCAL CAVE SYSTEMS "CFSDSBGBOE$PFMCSFO
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4HE MAIN ! CONTINUES SOUTHWARDS ALONGSIDE THE !FON 4AWE TO THE VILLAGE OF !"%2#2!& SOMETIMES !BERCRAVE ON THE CUSP OF THE COAL MINING 6ALLEYS 4O THE NORTH OF THE VILLAGE THE #RIBARTH MOUNTAIN LOOKS LIKE A RECLINING lGURE AND IS KNOWN LOCALLY AS THE 3LEEPING 'IANT /N THE BACK LANE TO THE VILLAGE OF #OELBREN IS THE SCRUFFY BUT ENDEARING #EFN YR %RW 0RIMATE 2ESCUE 3ANCTUARY DAILY AMnDUSK a /VER lFTY RESCUED PRIMATES INCLUDING CHIMPANZEES BABOONS AND GIBBONS LIVE ALONG SIDE 3HETLAND PONIES GOATS PORCUPINES AND EVEN WOLVES -EALS MANY VEGGIE OPTIONS AND "" WWWCEFN YR ERWCOUK ARE ALSO AVAILABLE 7ITH ITS PEBBLEDASH AND CHAPELS #/%,"2%. MARKS THE VERY OUTPOST OF THE 6ALLEYS COALlELD /N THE NORTH SIDE OF THE VILLAGE A PATH FROM A .ATIONAL 4RUST CAR PARK LEADS DOWN INTO A GORGEOUS WOODED RAVINE AND TO THE NINETY FOOT EXUBERANCE OF THE (ENRHYD WATERFALL THE HIGHEST IN SOUTH 7ALES WITH A ROCKY LEDGE BEHIND THE FALL THAT CAN BE EASILY ACCESSED :TUSBEGFMMUF 1FOEFSZOBOE1POUOFEEGFDIBO
#ONTINUING EAST A WONDERFUL TWISTING MOUNTAIN ROAD CROSSES THE &FOREST &AWR AND DROPS DOWN INTO THE VALLEY OF THE !FON ,LIA AND THE LIMESTONE CRAGS AROUND THE HAMLET OF 9342!$&%,,4% ,ITTLE MORE THAN A HANDFUL OF HOUSES A CHURCH AND A PUB THE .EW )NN THIS IS HOWEVER A PHENOMENALLY POPULAR CENTRE FOR WALKING AS A RESULT OF THE DAZZLING COUNTRYSIDE ON ITS DOORSTEP ,USH DEEP RAVINES n A TOTAL CONTRAST TO THE BARREN MOUNTAINS IMMEDIATELY TO THE NORTH n CARVE THEIR WAY THROUGH THE LIMESTONE RIDGE SOUTH OF THE VILLAGE WITH GREAT PAVEMENTS OF BONE WHITE ROCK LITTERING lELDS NEXT TO CRADLING POTHOLES DISAP PEARING RIVERS AND CRASHING WATERFALLS !S A CLASSIC LIMESTONE LANDSCAPE THE 9STRADFELLTE DISTRICT IS RECOGNIZED AS ONE OF THE MOST IMPRESSIVE IN THE "RITISH )SLES ! MILE SOUTH OF 9STRADFELLTE THE 2IVER -ELLTE TUMBLES INTO THE DARK AND ICY MOUTH OF THE 0ORTH YR OGOF CAVE EMERGING INTO DAYLIGHT A FEW HUNDRED YARDS FURTHER SOUTH ! SIGNPOSTED PATH HEADS SOUTH FROM THE 0ORTH YR OGOF CAR PARK AND INTO THE GREEN GORGE OF THE 2IVER -ELLTE #ONTINUE FOR LITTLE MORE THAN A MILE TO THE lRST OF ITS THREE GREAT WATERFALLS 3GWD #LUN 'WYN 7HITE -EADOW &ALL WHERE THE RIVER CRASHES FT OVER TWO HUGE ANGULAR STEPS OF ROCK
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BEFORE HURTLING DOWN COURSE FOR A FEW HUNDRED YARDS TO THE OTHER TWO FALLS THE GRACEFUL 3GWD )SAF #LUN 'WYN ,OWER 7HITE -EADOW &ALL AND A LITTLE FURTHER ON THE MIGHTY 3GWD Y 0ANNWR &ALL OF THE &ULLER 4HE PATH CONTINUES THROUGH THE FOLIAGE TO THE CONmUENCE OF THE RIVERS -ELLTE AND (EPSTE HALF A MILE FURTHER ON ! QUARTER OF A MILE ALONG THE (EPSTE IS ARGUABLY THE MOST IMPRESSIVE AND MOST POPULAR OF THE AREAS FALLS THE 3GWD YR %IRA &ALL OF 3NOW WHERE THE ROCK BELOW THE MAIN TUMBLE HAS ERODED BACK SIX FEET ALLOWING PEOPLE TO WALK DIRECTLY BEHIND A DRAMATIC TWENTY FOOT CURTAIN OF WATER n PARTICULARLY DAZZLING IN AFTERNOON OR EVENING LIGHT 4HERES A SHORTER SIGNPOSTED PATH TO 3GWD YR %IRA FROM JUST ABOVE 3GWD )SAF #LUN 'WYN AND AN EVEN SHORTER DIRECT TWO MILE WALK FROM THE VILLAGE OF 0%.$%29. OFF THE ! THREE MILES NORTH OF (IRWAUN REACHED BY REGULAR BUSES FROM !BERDARE 9OU MIGHT WANT TO STOP OFF ON THE MAIN ROAD THROUGH 0ENDERYN AT THE 7ELSH 7HISKY $ISTILLERY WWWWELSH WHISKYCOUK WHERE IT IS HOPED A VISITOR CENTRE WILL BE OPERATIONAL BY THE BEGINNING OF ! LESS WELL KNOWN BUT EQUALLY SPECTACULAR SET OF WATERFALL WALKS HEADS DUE NORTH FROM THE VILLAGE OF 0/.4.%$$&%#(!. FOUR MILES WEST OF 0END ERYN AND ALONG THE FORESTED VALLEY OF THE 2IVER .EDD OR .EATH 4HERE ARE NUMEROUS FALLS THE MOST FAMOUS BEING 3GWD 'WLADUS AN EASYISH MILES WALK ALONG THE RIVER FROM 0ONTNEDDFECHAN WHICH LIKE 3GWD YR %IRA OVERHANGS ENOUGH TO ALLOW YOU TO WALK BEHIND ! FEW HUNDRED YARDS FURTHER THOUGH ACCESSIBLE ONLY VIA STEPPING STONES AND A BIT OF A SCRAMBLE THAT CAN BE TRICKY AFTER HEAVY RAIN IS PERHAPS THE BEST OF ALL THE SUBLIME 3GWD %INION 'AM )N THE MIDDLE OF 9STRADFELLTE YOULL lND THE POPULAR .EW )NN WHICH SERVES BASIC MEALS A FEW YARDS FROM 4$ Y "ERLLAN AN UNFUSSY "" (ALF A MILE SOUTH IS A DECENT CAMPSITE AT 0ENLLWYN %INION &ARM a PER PERSON
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RESIDENTS AND CONSEQUENTLY CONTAINS THE GREATEST CONCENTRATION OF FACILITIES FOR VISITORS YOULL PROBABLY lND YOURSELF SPENDING A FAIR BIT OF TIME HERE 7HILE "RECON GIVES THE MOST DIRECT ACCESS TO THE PARKS HIGHEST PEAKS YOU MAY lND THAT THE 5SK 6ALLEY OFFERS BETTER WALKING BASES 4ALYBONT ON 5SK ISNT MUCH OF A PLACE BUT IS WELL SET FOR ACCESS TO THE EASTERN "EACONS SEE BOX ABOVE 4HE VILLAGE OF ,LANGORSE IS NOTABLE FOR ITS LEGENDARY LAKE AND THE ROPES CENTRE THAT PROVIDES A GOOD WET DAY DIVERSION 4ALGARTH IS A CHEERFUL PLACE AND THE CLOSEST TOWN TO THE NORTHERN "LACK -OUNTAINS AND THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY MANOR HOUSE AT 4RETOWER CERTAINLY WARRANTS A COUPLE OF HOURS &OR AN EXTENDED STAY YOULL PROBABLY BE BETTER OFF IN EITHER #RICKHOWELL OR !BERGAVENNY 4HERES NOT A WHOLE LOT TO ACTUALLY DO IN EITHER PLACE BUT BOTH ARE WELL SERVED WITH HOTELS RESTAURANTS AND PUBS AND ACCESS TO THE "LACK -OUN TAINS TO THE NORTH IS UNPARALLELED
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.ORTH OF 4ALYBONT THE " THREADS ITS WAY FOUR MILES THROUGH ROLLING COUN TRYSIDE TO THE PRISTINE VILLAGE OF ,,!.'/23% ,LANGORS SHELTERING IN THE WESTERN LEE OF THE "LACK -OUNTAINS 4HE SETTLEMENT IS A MILE NORTHEAST OF THE REED SHORED ,LANGORSE ,AKE ,LYN 3YFADDAN WHICH WAS NOTED FOR ITS MIRACU LOUS PROPERTIES BLOOD RED WATER GROANING SOUNDS AND MYTHICAL LOST CITY IN MEDIEVAL TIMES !N ARTIlCIAL ISLAND ON THE LAKE KNOWN AS A CRANNOG IS UNIQUE IN 7ALES AND IS THOUGHT TO HAVE BEEN A NINTH CENTURY SEAT OF THE ROYAL HOUSE OF "RYCHEINIOG 4ODAY THE LAKE IS A RATHER MORE PEDESTRIAN AFFAIR 4HE ,AKESIDE CAMPSITE a PER PITCH IS ALSO THE BASE FOR RENT ING VARIOUS BOATS AND BIKES ! MILE THE OTHER SIDE OF THE VILLAGE IS THE SUPERB ,LANGORSE 2IDING 2OPES #ENTRE DAILY AMnPM WWWACTIVITYUKCOM AT 'ILFACH &ARM %XPERIENCED CLIMBERS a PLUS a MEMBERSHIP CAN RENT GEAR CHEAPLY AND THERE ARE ACTIVITY SESSIONS a FOR HR a FOR HR INTRODUCING YOU TO CLIMBING AND ABSEILING 4HE CENTRE ALSO OFFERS OFF ROAD HORSE RIDING FOR BEGINNERS AND INTERMEDIATES a FOR HR OR a FOR HR RESPECTIVELY AND HACKING FOR THE EXPERIENCED a FOR HR 4HE ROPE CENTRE HAS AN INEXPENSIVE BUNKHOUSE PREFERENCE IS GENERALLY GIVEN TO GROUPS USING THE CENTRE BUT ITS WORTH ASKING PARTICULARLY DURING THE SCHOOL HOLIDAYS ! MILE UP THE ROAD IN ,LANGORSE ITSELF THERES TOP QUALITY "" AT 0EN Y "RYN (OUSE 4HE BEST FOOD IS AT THE EXCELLENT #ASTLE )NN WHILE THE FRIENDLY 2ED ,ION ON THE CORNER OF THE LANE LEADING DOWN TO THE LAKE OFFERS SUPERB FOOD AND DECENT "" &IVE MILES NORTH OF ,LANGORSE 4!,'!24( IS A SPIRITED AND FRIENDLY VILLAGE BUILT AROUND ITS UNUSUAL TOWN HALL AND THE BROODING BULK OF 3T 'WENDOLINES
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THE WATERFALLS ON THE .ANT "WREFWR AND BEYOND TO THE ISOLATED AND HAUNTINGLY BEAUTIFUL .EUADD OR "EACONS RESERVOIRS TO THE NORTH A GOOD STARTING POINT FOR WALKS TO THE SUMMITS OF 0EN Y &AN AND #ORN $U ALONG THE OLD h'APv ROAD SEE BOX P OR TO THE SOUTH THE BUSIER AND MORE POPULAR 0ENTWYN AND 0ONTSTICILL AKA 4AF &ECHAN RESERVOIRS #AR PARKS SNACK BARS AND SIGN POSTED FOREST WALKS FORM THE BULK OF MOST PEOPLES EXPERIENCE OF THESE LATTER TWO ALTHOUGH TWO EASTBOUND PATHS AT EITHER END OF THE 0ONTSTICILL RESERVOIR ENABLE ESCAPE FROM THIS IN FAVOUR OF A FAIRLY STEEP CLIMB UP THE ROCKY SLOPES FOR WONDERFUL VIEWS OVER THE LAKES "ELOW 0ONTSTICILL THE TINY "RECON -OUNTAIN 2AILWAY !PRILn/CT MOSTLY DAILY TRAINS a RETURN TRIP SHUTTLES PASSEN GERS ALONG A TWO MILE SECTION OF TRACK ON THE EASTERN BANK OF THE RESERVOIR #ANAL BOAT RENTAL IS ALSO AVAILABLE "RECON "OATS BASED BEHIND THE 4RAVELLERS 2EST PUB RENTS OUT lVE SEATER BOATS FOR BETWEEN ONE AND EIGHT HOURS an 4HREE MILES NORTHWEST OF 4ALYBONT YOULL lND #AMBRIAN #RUISERS WWWCAMBRIANCRUISERSCOUK AT 0ENCELLI WHARF WHERE YOU CAN RENT NARROWBOATS FOR LONGER PERIODS 2EGULAR "RECONn#RICKHOWELL BUSES STOP AT 4ALYBONT !MONGST THE VILLAGE PUBS THE 3TAR )NN STANDS OUT FOR ITS CHOICE OF REAL ALE FOOD MUSIC NIGHTS AND GOOD "" -ORE UPMARKET IS THE 5SK )NN WWWUSKINNCOUK A VILLAGE PUB TRANSFORMED INTO A COUNTRY RESTAURANT WITH VERY GOOD ROOMS AND FOOD !BER A LITTLE OVER A MILE SOUTH OF 4ALYBONT HAS VERY GOOD "" AT !BERCYNAFON ,ODGE AND A FURTHER FEW HUNDRED YARDS UP THE ROAD YOU CAN CAMP AT THE NORTH END OF 4ALYBONT 2ESERVOIR AT !BER #AMPSITE a PER PERSON /VER THE RIVER FROM THE CAMPSITE IS THE PLUSH NEW $ANYWENALLT 9(! HOSTEL DANYWENALLT YHAORGUK WITH EN SUITE PRIVATE ROOMS STARTING AT a PER PERSON ""
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CHURCH TOWER CONSTRUCTED IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY BUT HARKING BACK TO 4ALGARTHS POSITION AS A DEFENCE CENTRE AGAINST THE .ORMAN INVASION 4HE 4OWER (OTEL ON 4HE 3QUARE IS THE TOWNS MAIN CENTRE FOR EATING DRINKING AND "" 4HE "RIDGE %ND )NN OVER THE BRIDGE FROM THE 4OWER (OTEL IS GOOD FOR LIVE MUSIC AND A CHEERFUL ATMOSPHERE 4HERES INDEPENDENT TOURIST INFORMATION AND CHEAP )NTERNET ACCESS AT THE 4OWER 3HOP %ASTERn3EPT DAILY AMnPM EXCEPT 7ED 3UN PM /CTn%ASTER -ONn3AT AMnPM EXCEPT 7ED PM OPPOSITE THE 4OWER (OTEL "ETWEEN 4ALGARTH AND THE NEIGHBOURING VILLAGE OF "2/.,,93 IS "RONLLYS #ASTLE OF WHICH ONLY A LARGE TWELFTH CENTURY CYLINDRICAL TOWER REMAINS n CLIMB TO THE TOP FOR STUNNING VIEWS UP THE ,LYNl 2IVER VALLEY AND BEYOND TO THE LIGHT WASHED PEAKS OF THE "LACK -OUNTAINS 4HERE ARE SOME GREAT PLACES TO EAT AND SLEEP AROUND HERE JUST NORTH OF "RONLLYS ON THE MAIN ROAD THE (ONEY #AFÏ OPEN DAILY UNTIL PM HAS BEEN AROUND SINCE AND IS ALWAYS POPULAR WITH A TASTY 4EX -EX EVENING MENU (EADING UP THE ! BRINGS YOU TO ,LYSWEN AND THE SUPERB lFTEENTH CENTURY 'RIFlN )NN SERVING DELI CIOUS LOCAL DISHES #ONTINUING NORTH ON THE ! BRINGS YOU TO THE LUXURIOUS ,LANGOED (ALL WWWLLANGOEDHALLCOM AN ANCIENT CASTLE RE MODELLED IN THE EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY BY 0ORTMEIRIONS #LOUGH 7ILLIAMS %LLIS AND NOW OWNED BY 3IR "ERNARD !SHLEY WIDOWER OF THE LATE ,AURA
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WAS BUILT BY THE %NGLISH KING (ENRY )S LOCAL APPOINTEE (AMELINE DE "ALLON WITH THE EXPRESS AIM OF SECURING ENOUGH POWER TO EVICT LOCAL 7ELSH TRIBES FROM THE AREA AN IMPORTANT THROUGH ROUTE INTO 7ALES (OSTILITY TO THE 7ELSH REACHED ITS PEAK AT #HRISTMAS WHEN 7ILLIAM DE "RAOSE THEN LORD OF THE TOWN INVITED 'WENT CHIEFTAINS TO THE CASTLE ONLY TO MURDER THEM ALL 4HE TOWN GREW SHAKEN BADLY BY THE "LACK $EATH n AND A ROUTING BY /WAIN 'LYND"R IN BUT CONTINUED TO PROSPER THANKS LARGELY TO THE WEAVING AND TANNING TRADES THAT DEVELOPED FROM THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY 4HE INDUSTRIES OF !BERGA VENNY PROSPERED ALONGSIDE ITS mOURISHING MARKET STILL THE FOCAL POINT FOR A WIDE AREA DRAWING MANY PEOPLE UP FROM THE 6ALLEYS EVERY 4UESDAY )N 7ORLD 7AR )) (ITLERS DEPUTY 2UDOLF (ESS WAS KEPT IN THE TOWNS MENTAL ASYLUM AS A PRIS ONER AFTER HIS PLANE CRASH LANDED IN 3COTLAND IN (E WAS ALLOWED A WEEKLY WALK IN THE NEARBY HILLS GROWING IT IS SAID TO LOVE THE 7ELSH COUNTRYSIDE 4HIS COMBINATION OF URBAN AMENITIES AND THE VASTLY REWARDING UPLAND SCENERY ON ITS DOORSTEP IS !BERGAVENNYS MAIN ATTRACTION TODAY MAKING THE TOWN AN EXCELLENT BASE FOR FORAYS INTO THE CENTRAL AND EASTERN SECTIONS OF THE "RECON "EACONS
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!BERGAVENNY IS WELL CONNECTED TO THE NATIONAL RAIL NETWORK WITH FAST AND FREQUENT TRAINS FROM #ARDIFF .EWPORT AND (EREFORD STOPPING AT ITS TRAIN
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STATION HALF A MILE SOUTHEAST OF THE CENTRE OFF THE ! "USES DEPART IN ALL DIRECTIONS FROM 3WAN -EADOWS BUS STATION RIGHT IN THE HEART OF THINGS ON #ROSS 3TREET AND ADJACENT TO THE TOURIST OFlCE DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM ABERGAVENNYTIC MONMOUTHSHIRE GOVUK AND "RECON "EACONS .ATIONAL 0ARK OFlCE %ASTERn3EPT DAILY AMnPM WWWBRECONBEACONSORG "IKE RENTAL IS AVAILABLE AT 'ATEWAY #YCLES &ROGMORE 3T a PER DAY OR IF THEY HAVE ANY LEFT FROM THE "LACK 3HEEP BUNKHOUSE RIGHT BY THE TRAIN STATION SEE BELOW .ARROWBOATS AND DAY RENTAL MOTOR BOATS FOR EXPLORING THE -ONMOUTHSHIRE AND "RECON #ANAL CAN BE RENTED FROM "EACON 0ARK "OATS AT ,LANFOIST WWWBEACONPARKBOATSCOM A MILE SOUTH OF TOWN #ONCERTS AND THEATRE TAKE PLACE IN THE "OROUGH 4HEATRE ON #ROSS 3TREET
5IF5PXO &ROM THE TRAIN STATION -ONMOUTH 2OAD RISES GENTLY INTO THE TOWN CENTRE BECOMING #ROSS 3TREET AND lNALLY (IGH 3TREET /FF TO THE RIGHT ARE -ONK 3TREET AND NEXT TO THE BLUE TURRETED 6ICTORIAN 'OTHIC TOWN HALL THE WONDERFUL COVERED MARKET 4UES &RI FOR PRODUCE 7ED mEA MARKET REGULAR WEEKEND ANTIQUES FAIRS AND &ARMERS -ARKET ON FOURTH 4HURS EVERY MONTH !NY STREET HEADING LEFT OFF #ROSS OR (IGH STREETS LEADS TO #ASTLE 3TREET WHERE THE DARK FRAGMENTED REMAINS OF !BERGAVENNYS MEDIEVAL CASTLE MOULDER 4HE CASTLES KEEP WAS ENTIRELY REMODELLED IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY AND LEFT TO SIT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SHABBY RUINS LIKE AN INCONGRUOUS ,EGO MODEL 4HE CASTLES ONLY REAL SAVING FEATURES ARE ITS SERENE POSITION NEAR THE 2IVER 5SK AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL OF SURROUNDING HILLS AND ITS MILDLY INTERESTING TOWN
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MUSEUM %ASTERn3EPT DAILY AMnPM THOUGH CLOSED nPM OUTSIDE SCHOOL SUMMER HOLIDAYS /CTn%ASTER -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM FREE $ISPLAYS COVER THE TOWNS HISTORY USING PHOTOGRAPHS AND BILLBOARDS AND RE CREATED INTERIORS INCLUDING A SADDLERY A SANITIZED "ORDER FARMHOUSE KITCHEN OF AND "ASIL *ONES GROCERY SHOP ONCE ON -AIN 3TREET !FTER THE DEATH OF *ONES SON IN THE CONTENTS OF THE SHOP WERE TRANSPORTED TO THE MUSEUM LOCK STOCK AND BISCUIT BARREL 3OME OF IT WAS RECENT BUT MUCH OF IT DATED FROM THE S AND S n 7ORLD 7AR )) VEGETABLE TINS AND DECORATIONS MARKED FOR THE CORONATION OF %DWARD 6))) THAT NEVER HAPPENED n AND SOME DATING BACK TO THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 9OU CAN GET A GOOD IDEA OF HOW IT MIGHT HAVE LOOKED IN SITU BY VISITING THE OUTDATED 3ADDLERS STATIONERS ON -AIN 3TREET JUST UPHILL FROM THE IMPOSING !NGEL (OTEL n EVEN BUYING A NEWSPAPER HERE TAKES THREE TIMES AS LONG AS NORMAL !BERGAVENNYS PARISH CHURCH OF 3T -ARY ON -ONK 3TREET CONTAINS SOME SUPERB EFlGIES AND TOMBS THAT SPAN THE ENTIRE MEDIEVAL PERIOD /RIGINALLY BUILT AS THE CHAPEL OF A SMALL TWELFTH CENTURY "ENEDICTINE PRIORY THE EXIST ING BUILDING GOES BACK ONLY AS FAR AS THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY ALTHOUGH SOME OF THE MONUMENTS WITHIN PREDATE THE BUILDING ITSELF 4HERE ARE EFlGIES OF MEMBERS OF THE DE "RAOSE FAMILY ALONG WITH THE TOMB AND lGURE OF 3IR 7ILLIAM AP 4HOMAS FOUNDER OF 2AGLAN #ASTLE AND $R $AVID ,EWIS DIED THE lRST 0RINCIPAL OF *ESUS #OLLEGE /XFORD ,OOK TOO FOR THE *ESSE 4REE A RECUMBENT TWICE LIFESIZE STATUE OF +ING $AVIDS FATHER WHICH WOULD ONCE HAVE FORMED PART OF AN ALTARPIECE TRACING THE FAMILY LINEAGE FROM *ESSE TO *ESUS 4HE *ESSE 7INDOW AT ,LANRHAEADR IN THE 6ALE OF #LYWD SEE P TELLS THE SAME TALE
&BUJOHBOEESJOLJOH )N THE LAST lFTEEN YEARS FOOD HAS BECOME !BERGAVENNYS MAIN CLAIM TO FAME n AS WELL AS NUMEROUS lNE EATERIES THE TOWNS ANNUAL &OOD &ESTIVAL WWWABERGAVENNYFOODFESTIVALCOUK TAKING PLACE IN MID 3EPTEMBER IS NOW ONE OF THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS IN "RITAIN 4HERE ARE A CLUTCH OF CHEAP TAKEAWAYS OF ALL VARIETIES AT THE BOTTOM OF #ROSS 3TREET TOWARDS THE BUS STATION "OHFM)PUFM$SPTT4U (SBDJPVT EJOJOHSPPNJOUIFUPXOTNBJOIPUFM TFSWJOH FYDFMMFOUMPDBMDVJTJOF (SFBU(FPSHF$SPTT4U:PVOHBOEMJWFMZQVC FTQFDJBMMZBQQFBMJOHGPSHPPEWBMVFTOBDLT XFFL FOEEJTDPTBOE4VOEBZFWFOJOHMJWFNVTJD (SFDP$SPTT4U"DMBTTJDDBGÏ HSFBUGPSQJMFTPG DIFBQDIPMFTUFSPM0QFOVOUJMQNEBJMZ (SFZIPVOE7BVMUT.BSLFU4U(SFBUGPSBXJEFSBOHF PGUBTUZ NPEFSBUFMZQSJDFE8FMTIBOE&OHMJTITQFDJ BMJUJFT JODMVEJOHUIFCFTUWFHFUBSJBOEJTIFTJOUPXO )FOBOE$IJDLFOT'MBOOFM4U PGG)JHI4U4UBVODIMZ USBEJUJPOBMQVC XJUIUIFCFTUCFFSJOUPXOBOEB SFHVMBSQSPHSBNNFPGMJWFNVTJDBOEPUIFSFWFOUT
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4HE NORTHEASTERNMOST SECTION OF THE "RECON "EACONS .ATIONAL 0ARK IS KNOWN AS THE "LACK -OUNTAINS NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH ITS SINGULAR NAMESAKE FORTY MILES WEST &AR QUIETER THAN THE CENTRAL BELT OF THE "RECON "EACONS THE "LACK
&ROM THE GROUNDS OF !BERGAVENNY #ASTLE THE SURROUNDING SKYLINE IS DOMINATED BY THREE SOUTHERN OUTPOSTS OF THE "LACK -OUNTAINS THAT CLIMB OUT OF THE RIVER PLAIN 4O THE SOUTHWEST IS "LORENGE FT A CORRUPTION OF h"LUE 2IDGEv ACCESSIBLE FROM THE ROAD THAT STRIKES OFF THE " A MILE SHORT OF "LAENAFON 4HE OPEN ROAD CLIMBS THE SHALE AND SHEEP COVERED SLOPES TO THE CAR PARKS NEAR THE RADIO MASTS !N EASY WALK FROM HERE LEADS ACROSS BOGGY HEATHLAND TO A LONG CAIRN AT THE SUMMIT FROM WHICH THERE ARE SOME GLORIOUS VIEWS SOUTH OVER THE OLD MINING REGION AND NORTH OVER THE 5SK 6ALLEY !BERGAVENNY AND THE "LACK -OUNTAINS 4HERE IS A STEEPER ASCENT OF THE "LORENGE FROM ,LANFOIST A MILE SOUTHWEST OF !BERGAVENNY WHICH CUTS PAST THE CHURCH AND UNDER THE CANAL BEFORE ZIGZAGGING UP THE MOUNTAIN 4HE BROAD AND SMOOTH CONE OF 3UGAR ,OAF FT COMMANDS THE "LACK -OUNTAINS FOOTHILLS TO THE NORTHWEST OF !BERGAVENNY &ALLING AWAY FROM ITS SUMMIT ARE PATHS THAT SCOUR THE WINDSWEPT SLOPES BEFORE DESCENDING TO TINY VILLAGES IN THE VALLEYS OF THE 5SK THE 'RWYNE &AWR AND THE 'RWYNE &ECHAN 4HE EASIEST ASCENT IS FROM THE SOUTH TAKING THE RIGHT FORK OF 0ENTRE ,ANE OFF THE ! HALF A MILE WEST OF !BERGAVENNY AND FOLLOWING THE ROAD THAT CLIMBS -YNYDD ,LANWENARTH !T FT 4HE 3KIRRID 9SGYRYD &AWR IS THE MOST EYE CATCHING MOUNTAIN IN THE AREA 3HOOTING UP FROM THE 'AVENNY 6ALLEY THREE MILES NORTHEAST OF !BER GAVENNY THE HILL ALMOST SEEMS MAN MADE IN ITS NEATNESS THE GENTLE GREEN lELDS CLIMB ABOUT HALFWAY STOPPING SUDDENLY IN FAVOUR OF PURPLE SCRUB AND BRACKEN 4HE BEST PATH ALTHOUGH IT IS STILL A STEEP ASCENT LEADS FROM THE LAY BY ON THE " JUST SHORT OF THE 7ALNUT 4REE )NN SEE OPPOSITE 4HE 3KIRRID HAS LONG BEEN HELD TO BE A HOLY MOUNTAIN THE ALMIGHTY CHASM THAT SPLITS THE PEAK IS SAID TO HAVE BEEN CAUSED BY THE FORCE OF 'ODS WILL ON THE DEATH OF #HRIST A THEORY THAT HAS DRAWN 3AINT -ICHAEL AND LEGIONS OF ENSUING PILGRIMS TO THIS BLEAK BUT BREATHTAKING SPOT !T THE SUMMIT A FEW LEANING BOULDERS ARE THE SOLE REMAINS OF A FORBIDDEN CHAPEL BUILT BY PERSECUTED #ATHOLICS
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-OUNTAINS COMBINE SOME OF THE AWESOME REMOTENESS OF &FOREST &AWR WITH THE DRY TERRAIN AND EXCELLENT WALKING OF THE CENTRAL "EACONS 4HE WIDE VALLEY OF THE 2IVER 5SK n HOME TO 4RETOWER #RICKHOWELL AND !BERGAVENNY n DIVIDES THE "EACONS HEARTLAND FROM THE "LACK -OUNTAINS WHOSE SANDSTONE RANGE RISES TO BETTER DElNED INDIVIDUAL PEAKS THAN CAN BE FOUND IN THE WESTERN END OF THE NATIONAL PARK 4HE ONLY EXCEPTION TO THE UNREMITTING SANDSTONE IS AN ISOLATED OUTCROP OF LIMESTONE LONG DIVORCED FROM THE SOUTHERN BELT THAT PEAKS DUE NORTH OF #RICKHOWELL AT 0EN #ERRIG CALCH 5NLIKE THE "LACK -OUNTAIN OR &FOREST &AWR TO THE WEST OF THE PARK THE "LACK -OUNTAINS HAVE THE FEELING OF A LANDSCAPE ONLY PARTLY TAMED BY HUMAN HABITATION 4INY VILLAGES ISOLATED CHURCHES AND DELIGHTFUL LANES ARE FOLDED INTO THE UNDULATING GREEN LANDSCAPE #LOSE TO HAND THERE IS IMMEDIATE ACCESS FROM THE TOWN TO THE THREE SOUTHERNMOST LUMPS OF THE "LACK -OUNTAINS "LORENGE 3UGAR ,OAF AND 4HE 3KIRRID n REALLY ONLY A TASTER FOR THE REMOTE BEAUTY FURTHER NORTH 4HE MOST POPULAR AND REWARDING AREAS TO WALK ARE IN THE EAST OF THE MOUN TAINS ALONG THE LANE PAST ,LANTHONY 0RIORY AND ALONG THE SOUTHERN BAND OF PEAKS EASILY REACHED FROM !BERGAVENNY AND #RICKHOWELL NOTABLY 0EN #ERRIG CALCH SEE P 4ABLE -OUNTAIN SEE P AND THE 3UGAR ,OAF 4HE MASS OF RIPPLING HILLS IN THE CENTRE AND TO THE NORTH ARE LESS EASY TO REACH ALTHOUGH A COUPLE OF GOOD PATHS CROSS THE CONTOURS
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)N TOTAL CONTRAST TO THE URBAN 6ALLEYS JUST A FEW MILES AWAY THE NORTHERN lNGER OF -ONMOUTHSHIRE AND THE EXTREME EASTERN BOUNDARY OF THE "RECON "EACONS .ATIONAL 0ARK STRETCHING ALONG THE %NGLISH BORDER IS ONE OF THE MOST ENCHANT ING AND RECLUSIVE REGIONS IN 7ALES 4HE MAIN ! (EREFORD ROAD LEADS NORTH OUT OF !BERGAVENNY PASSING THE SURREAL MOUND OF 4HE 3KIRRID ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE 3IX MILES OUT OF TOWN THE ROAD BYPASSES THE VILLAGE OF ,LANlHANGEL #RUCORNEY WHERE A LANE DIVERGES OFF TO WEAVE THROUGH THE 6ALE OF %WYAS ALONG THE BANK OF THE (ONDDU 2IVER PAST THE REMOTE VILLAGE OF #WMYOY WITH ITS WONKY SUBSIDED CHURCH AND ON TO THE CRUMBLING OLD RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS OF ,LANTHONY 0RIORY AND #APEL Y FlN 0ARALLEL TO THE (ONDDU A COUPLE OF MILES AND SOME IMPRESSIVE MOUNTAINS TO THE WEST IS THE 'RWYNE &AWR A SPARKLING RIVER THAT mOWS THROUGH THE HEART OF SOME OF 7ALES MOST PEACEFUL AND GENTLE COUNTRYSIDE &OLDED AMONGST THE CONTOURS IS ONE OF THE COUNTRYS MOST PERFECT SMALL CHURCHES AT 0ARTRISHOW !SIDE FROM THE SUMMER 3UNDAY AND "ANK (OLIDAY -ONDAY /FFAS $YKE &LYER SERVICE FROM (AY ON 7YE THERE ARE NO BUS SERVICES IN THIS AREA -MBOmIBOHFM$SVDPSOFZ 1BSUSJTIPXBOE$XNZPZ
! QUIET DORMITORY VILLAGE ,,!.&)(!.'%, #25#/2.%9 ,LANlHANGEL #RUCORNAU THE 3ACRED %NCLOSURE OF -ICHAEL AT THE #ORNER OF THE 2OCK IS NAMED IN HONOUR OF TALES OF 3T -ICHAELS PILGRIMAGE TO 4HE 3KIRRID /N THE MAIN VILLAGE STREET ARE THE ODD lFTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH AND THE 3KIRRID )NN WHICH MAKES BOLD CLAIMS TO BE THE hOLDEST PUB IN 7ALESv A FACT SINGULARLY DIFlCULT TO PROVE &ROM THE VILLAGE THE MAIN ROAD THROUGH THE VALLEY HEADS NORTH INTO THE BEAUTIFUL 6ALE OF %WYAS ALONG THE BANKS OF THE (ONDDU 2IVER !FTER A MILE A LANE HEADS WEST TOWARDS THE ENCHANTING VALLEY OF THE 'RWYNE &AWR LOST DEEP IN THE MIDDLE OF QUIET HILLS 4HE ROAD IS WELL WORTH FOLLOWING IF ONLY FOR THE DISCOVERY OF THE HAMLET OF 0!242)3(/7 WHERE A BUBBLING TRIBU TARY OF THE 'RWYNE &AWR TRICKLES PAST THE DELIGHTFUL CHURCH AND WELL OF 3T )SSUI &IRST FOUNDED IN THE ELEVENTH CENTURY THE TINY CHURCH WAS REMODELLED IN THE THIRTEENTH AND FOURTEENTH CENTURIES WITH MAJOR RESTORATION WORK NEEDED IN TO PREVENT IT COLLAPSING 4HE lNEST INTERIOR FEATURE IS THE LACY lFTEENTH CENTURY ROOD SCREEN CARVED OUT OF SOLID )RISH OAK AND ADORNED WITH CRUDE SYMBOLS OF GOOD AND EVIL MOST NOTABLY IN THE CORNER WHERE AN EVIL DRAGON CONSUMES A VINE A SYMBOL OF HOPE AND WELL BEING n THE REST OF THE WHITEWASHED CHURCH BREATHES SIMPLICITY BY COMPARISON /F SPECIAL NOTE ARE THE WALL TEXTS PAINTED OVER THE APOCALYPTIC PICTURE OF A SKELETON AND SCYTHE "EFORE THE 2EFORMATION SUCH IMAGES WERE WIDELY USED WITH THE INTENT OF TEACHING AN ILLITERATE POPULATION ABOUT THE SCRIPTURES HOWEVER +ING *AMES ) ORDERED THAT SUCH h0OPISH DEVICESv SHOULD BE WHITEWASHED OVER AND REPAINTED WITH SCRIPTURE TEXTS (ERE THE GHOSTLY GRIM REAPER IS ONCE AGAIN SEEPING THROUGH THE WHITEWASH %NCASED IN GLASS BY THE PULPIT IS A RARE EXAM PLE OF A "IBLE IN 7ELSH "ACK ON THE MAIN ROAD THE ! WINDS ITS WAY ON THE VALLEYS WESTERN SIDE PAST THE FORK AT THE 1UEENS (EAD PUB A GREAT PLACE TO CAMP a A HEAD )TS WELL WORTH TAKING THE LITTLE LANE THAT PEELS OFF THE MAIN ROAD HERE AS IT DIPS DOWN OVER THE RIVER AND INTO THE VILLAGE OF #7-9/9 WHERE ALL EYES ARE DRAWN TO THE AMAZING SPECTACLE OF THE PARISH CHURCH OF 3T -ARTIN WHICH HAS SUBSIDED SUBSTANTIALLY DUE TO GEOLOGICAL TWISTS IN THE UNDERLYING ROCK .OTHING SQUARES UP THE TOWER LEANS AT A SEVERE ANGLE FROM THE BULGING BODY OF
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&OUR MILES FURTHER INTO THE 6ALE OF %WYAS THE HAMLET OF ,,!.4(/.9 IS NOTHING MORE THAN A SMALL CLUSTER OF HOUSES AN INN AND A FEW OUTLYING FARMS AROUND THE WIDE OPEN RUINS OF ,LANTHONY 0RIORY n A GRANDER SETTING AND CERTAINLY A QUIETER ONE THAN 4INTERN !BBEY 4HOUGH ON A FAR MORE MODEST SCALE THAN 4INTERN ,LANTHONY HAS THE EDGE IN MANY RESPECTS 7HEREAS 4INTERN HAS GROWN INTO A FULLY mEDGED TOURIST TRAP ,LANTHONY REMAINS MUCH AS IT HAS BEEN FOR YEARS RETAINING A REAL SENSE OF SPIRITUALITY AND PEACE AGAINST A SUPERIOR BACKDROP OF RIVER AND MOUNTAIN )TS ORIGINS ARE SWADDLED IN MYTH AND HEARSAY BUT THE PRIORY IS BELIEVED TO HAVE BEEN FOUNDED ON THE SITE OF A RUINED CHAPEL AROUND BY .ORMAN KNIGHT 7ILLIAM DE ,ACY WHO IT IS SAID WAS SO CAPTIVATED BY THE SPIRITUAL BEAUTY OF THE SITE THAT HE RENOUNCED WORLDLY LIVING AND FOUNDED A HERMITAGE ATTRACTING LIKE MINDED RECLUSES AND FORMING 7ALES lRST !UGUSTINE PRIORY 4HE CHURCH AND OUTBUILDINGS STILL STANDING TODAY WERE CONSTRUCTED IN THE LATTER HALF OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY 2OVING EPISCOPAL ENVOY 'IRALDUS #AMBRENSIS VISITED THE EMERGING PRIORY CHURCH IN NOTING THAT hHERE THE MONKS SITTING IN THEIR CLOISTERS ENJOYING THE FRESH AIR WHEN THEY HAPPEN TO LOOK UP AT THE HORIZON BEHOLD THE TOPS OF MOUNTAINS AS IT WERE TOUCHING THE HEAVENSv ! TRACK BEHIND THE RUINS WINDS UP TO THE /FFAS $YKE 0ATH STRADDLING THE %NGLANDn7ALES BORDER ON ITS LOFTY WINDY RIDGE &ASHIONED OUT OF PART OF THE TUMBLEDOWN PRIORY THE !BBEY (OTEL HERE WWWLLANTHONYPRIORYSUPANETCOM WAS BUILT IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY AS A HUNTING LODGE AND HAS A CELLAR BAR WITH ARCHES CONSTRUCTED IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY )TS USUALLY CLOSED ON WINTER WEEKDAYS AND YOULL BE REQUIRED TO BOOK IN FOR BOTH NIGHTS ON SUMMER WEEKENDS !T THE OTHER END OF THE RUINS #OURT &ARM WWWLLANTHONY COUK OFFERS GREAT SELF CATERING UNITS IN THE FARMHOUSE TOGETHER WITH A LOVELY
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THE CHURCH AND THE VIEW INSIDE FROM THE BACK OF THE NAVE TOWARDS THE SLOPING ALTAR ASKEW ROOF AND STRAINING WINDOWS IS UNFORGETTABLE
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BUNKHOUSE a IN AN OLD STONE BARN CALLED 4HE 7AIN (OUSE 0RE BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL FOR BOTH )T ALSO OFFERS BASIC CAMPING a PER PERSON AND PONY TREK KING ! HUNDRED YARDS NORTH ALONG THE ROAD FROM THE PRIORY IS THE THICK SET (ALF -OON )NN HOME OF SUPERB BEER BOG STANDARD PUB FOOD AND COMFY BEDS $BQFMZGmOBOEUIF(PTQFM1BTT 5)& #3& $ 0/#& "$ 0/4 "/%108 :4
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&ROM ,LANTHONY THE ROAD CLIMBS SLOWLY ALONGSIDE THE NARROWING (ONDDU 2IVER BEFORE COASTING GENTLY ALONG BY RUINED FARMHOUSES FOR FOUR MILES TO THE ISOLATED HAMLET OF #!0%, 9 &&). JUST YARDS OVER THE -ONMOUTHSHIRE BORDER IN 0OWYS ,OCKED IN THE MIDDLE OF SHEER HILLS #APEL Y FlN HAS A STRANGELY DEVO TIONAL FEEL DUE PRINCIPALLY TO THE FACT THAT THE VILLAGE IS MADE UP OF LITTLE MORE THAN TWO CHAPELS AND A CURIOUS RUINED MONASTERY 4HE MINUTE WHITEWASHED EIGHTEENTH CENTURY CHAPEL ON THE MAIN ROAD HAS AN APT TEXT INSCRIBED INTO ONE OF ITS WINDOWS h) WILL LIFT UP MINE EYES UNTO THE HILLS FROM WHENCE COMETH MY HELPv n AT #APEL Y FlN YOU CAN BARELY HELP DOING ANYTHING ELSE ! LANE FORKS OFF BY THE PHONE BOX LEADING UP TO THE RUINS OF THE PRIVATELY OWNED AND CONFUSINGLY NAMED ,LANTHONY -ONASTERY FOUNDED IN BY THE 2EVER END *OSEPH ,YNE 4HE RELIGIOUS ORDER FAILED TO SURVIVE HIS DEATH IN BUT THE PLACE LATER BECAME A SELF SUFlCIENT OUTPOST OF THE ART WORLD WHEN IN IT WAS BOUGHT BY %NGLISH SCULPTOR TYPEFACE DESIGNER AND ECCENTRIC %RIC 'ILL WHOSE COMMUNE A MOTLEY COLLECTION OF ARTISTS AND THEIR FAMILIES DREW MUCH OF THEIR CREATIVE INSPIRATION FROM THE AREA &ROM ,LANTHONY -ONASTERY THE ROAD NARROWS AS IT WEAVES A TORTUOUS ROUTE UP INTO THE 'OSPEL 0ASS AND ONTO THE GLORIOUS ROOF OF THE "LACK -OUNTAINS ! HOWLING WINDY MOOR BY (AY "LUFF lVE MILES UP FROM #APEL Y FlN AFFORDS VAST VIEWS AND TERRIlC WALKING OVER SPONGY HILLS PUNCTUATED BY BLEAK CRAGS AND THE DISTANT VIEW OF TINY VILLAGES 4HE ROAD DROPS JUST AS SUDDENLY AS IT CLIMBED DESCENDING lVE MILES INTO (AY ON 7YE &ACILITIES ARE SCARCE AROUND HERE 4HE 'RANGE CLOSED .OVn %ASTER IS A COMFORTABLE "" WITH EXTENSIVE GARDENS IN WHICH YOU CAN PITCH A TENT #APEL Y &lN 9(! HOSTEL CLOSED $EC *AN .OV &EB WEEKENDS ONLY a WHICH ALSO HAS CAMPING LIES A MILE UP THE VALLEY FROM THE HAMLET ITSELF 4HIS IS A GREAT AREA FOR PONY TREKKING AVAILABLE AT BOTH 4HE 'RANGE AND #OURT &ARM SEE P
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! THE VILLAGE IS HOME TO A COUPLE OF SMALL COMMERCIAL ART GALLERIES TRADING ON THE STRENGTH OF #LYROS CONNECTIONS WITH NINETEENTH CENTURY WANDERING PARSON &RANCIS +ILVERT !LTHOUGH HE WAS VICAR OF #LYRO FOR ONLY SEVEN YEARS n THE VILLAGE ITS IDYLLIC SURROUNDINGS AND ITS PRECISELY RECORDED INHAB ITANTS FEATURED PROMINENTLY IN HIS PUBLISHED DIARIES DRAWING A STEADY TRICKLE OF PILGRIMS TO SEE THE PLACE EVER SINCE 4HE ! HEADS SOUTH THROUGH THE ONE HORSE HAMLET OF ,,/7%3 WHOSE DOWDY CHURCH OF 3T -EILIG HOUSES A SUPERB THREE TON SEVENTH CENTURY #ELTIC CROSS ! MILE FURTHER A LANE TO THE RIGHT CLIMBS TO -!%392/..%. WHERE THE LOW ROOFED BARN CHAPEL BUILT IN IS THE OLDEST SURVIVING .ONCONFORMIST WORSHIP HOUSE IN 7ALES )F ITS LOCKED AND YOU WANT TO SEE THE WHITEWASHED INTERIOR WITH ITS OLD BENCHES AND STACKED WOODEN PULPIT GET THE KEY FROM THE /LD 0OST /FlCE IN &FYNNON 'YNYDD A MILE UP THE LANE
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3BEOPSTIJSFBOE .POUHPNFSZTIJSF %VEN QUIETER THAN THE "RECON "EACONS THE NORTHERN TRANCHE OF 0OWYS n THE OLD COUNTIES OF 2ADNORSHIRE AND -ONTGOMERYSHIRE nIS A HUGELY REWARDING AREA TO EXPLORE 4HIS IS FARMING COUNTRY WHERE URBAN LIFE COMES NO BIGGER THAN A FEW SMALL MARKET TOWNS MANY OF WHICH MAKE FOR EXCELLENT BASES "ETWEEN THE TOWNS THE CONTOURS OF THE IMPOSSIBLY GREEN SHEEP mECKED FARMLAND ARE SHAPED BY THE GLASSY LAKES AND LIVELY RIVERS THAT RUN DOWN FROM THE OPEN MOORLAND OF THE #AMBRIAN -OUNTAINS WHICH FORM 7ALES SPINE /VER THE YEARS THE QUALITY AND PACE OF LIFE IN 0OWYS HAS PROVED IRRESISTIBLE TO SUCCESSIVE WAVES OF HIPPIES AND hALTERNATIVEv LIFESTYLERS MOSTLY %NGLISH 3OME HAVE SETTLED INTO THEIR NEW COMMUNITIES VERY WELL THOUGH MANY OTHERS SEEM TO PREFER TO LIVE APART &OR A VISITOR HOWEVER THE WHOLEFOOD CAFÏS AND QUIRKY FESTIVALS ARE FOR THE MOST PART AN ATTRACTIVE ADDITION TO THE AREA #OMBINE THAT WITH THE LUSCIOUS LANDSCAPE AND THE DETRITUS OF TEN CENTURIES OF !NGLO 7ELSH CONmICT AND ITS PLAIN TO SEE WHAT MAKES THIS 0OWYS HEARTLAND SO APPEALING )N THE SOUTH OF 2ADNORSHIRE FOUR DISTINCTLY DIFFERENT COMMUNITIES JOINTLY FORM THE 7ELLS TOWNS EACH GROWN UP AROUND A REPUTEDLY HEALTH GIVING SPRING 4HERES MORE WATER STILL IN THE MAGNIlCENT %LAN 6ALLEY WHERE FOUR INTERLOCK ING RESERVOIRS FORM THE FOCUS OF COUNTRYSIDE NOTED FOR ITS ABUNDANCE OF RED KITES 4O THE EAST CLOSE TO THE %NGLISH BORDER 0RESTEIGNE IS A CHARMING LITTLE PLACE WITH A GREAT MUSEUM WHILE +NIGHTON MAKES MUCH OF ITS POSITION MIDWAY ALONG THE EIGHTH CENTURY BORDER DEFENCE OF /FFAS $YKE 4HE NORTHERNMOST SECTION OF 0OWYS IS MELLOW -ONTGOMERYSHIRE 'OOD BASES INCLUDE THE CHEERILY OFFBEAT LITTLE TOWN OF ,LANIDLOES THE LAID BACK NORTHERN OUTPOST OF ,LANFYLLIN THE OLD COUNTY TOWN OF -ONTGOMERY AND ITS MUCH LARGER AND MORE BOISTEROUS REPLACEMENT 7ELSHPOOL !LTHOUGH TECHNI CALLY ON A WESTERN LIMB OF -ONTGOMERYSHIRE -ACHYNLLETH IS DEALT WITH IN THE #AMBRIAN #OAST CHAPTER
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3TRADDLING THE OLD BORDER OF "RECKNOCKSHIRE AND 2ADNORSHIRE AROUND lFTEEN MILES NORTH OF "RECON MID 7ALES FOUR SPA TOWNS ARE STRUNG OUT ALONG THE (EART OF 7ALES RAIL LINE AND THE MAIN ! 5P UNTIL THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY ALL WERE OBSCURE VILLAGES BUT THEN CAME THE GREAT CRAZE FOR SPAS AND ANYWHERE WITH A DECENT SUPPLY OF APPARENTLY HEALING WATER JOINED IN ON THE ACT 2OYALTY AND NOBILITY SPEARHEADED THE FASHION THOUGH ONCE THE RAILWAYS ARRIVED THE FOUR 7ELSH SPAS BECAME THE DOMAIN OF EVERYONE EACH DEVELOPING ITS OWN DISTINCT CLIENTELE AND ATMOSPHERE 4ODAY BEST OF THE BUNCH IS UNDOUBTEDLY THE WESTERNMOST SPA OF ,LANWRTYD 7ELLS HUNKERED DOWN BENEATH STUNNING MOUNTAIN SCENERY AND WITH A REAL PULSE TO THE PLACE "LINK AND YOUD MISS TINY ,LANGAMMARCH 7ELLS THOUGH ROBUST "UILTH 7ELLS IS DElNITELY WORTH A STOP 4HE MOST FAMOUS OF THE FOUR n ,LAND RINDOD 7ELLS n ATTRACTED THE INTERNATIONAL ELITE IN ITS 6ICTORIAN HEYDAY BUT ITS BEEN A STEADY SLIDE DOWNHILL SINCE THEN AND THE PLACE IS STRUGGLING THESE DAYS
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,LANWRTYDS TOURIST OFlCE IS IN 4$ "ARCUD JUST OFF THE MAIN SQUARE DAILY AMn PM WWWLLANWRTYD WELLSPOWYSORGUK !CCOMMO DATION IS PLENTIFUL AND OF A HIGH STANDARD BUT SHOULD BE BOOKED WELL IN ADVANCE WHEN THERE ARE FESTIVALS ON /PTIONS INCLUDE THE LIVELY .EUADD !RMS IN THE MAIN SQUARE WWWNEUADDARMSHOTELCOUK WHICH ALSO OFFERS GOOD BAR FOOD WITH SOME GREAT CURRIES THE LOVELY #ARLTON (OUSE WWWCARLTONRESTAURANTCOUK YARDS AWAY ON $OLECOED 2OAD WHICH ALSO HAS A HANDFUL OF CHEAPER ROOMS INCLUDING TWO BARGAIN SINGLES ACROSS THE STREET AT ITS BRASSERIE AND THE FAIRLY GRAND ,ASSWADE ON 3TATION 2OAD WWWLASSWADEHOTELCOUK 4HE MARVEL LOUS $ROVERS 2EST RESTAURANT BY THE RIVER BRIDGE WWW FOOD FOOD FOODCOUK SERVES WHOLESOME TRADITIONAL 7ELSH DISHES AND SNACKS AND HAS SOME CLASSY COSY "" ACCOMMODATION BOTH ABOVE THE RESTAURANT AND IN THE NEARBY (IGH 6IEW (OUSE &INALLY THE 3TONECROFT )NN ON
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$OLECOED 2OAD IS A SUPERB PUB WITH GREAT FOOD AND REGULAR LIVE FOLK 2" AND ROCK MUSIC AS WELL AS BEDS a IN A SMALL SELF CATERING HOSTEL ANNEXE 4HERES VERY BASIC TENT ONLY CAMPING a PER PERSON ON THE $OLWEN &IELDS M OFF THE MAIN ROAD SOUTH FROM THE TOWN SQUARE ALTHOUGH HOURS NOTICE IS REQUIRED GJONES VIRGINNET "IKE RENTAL IS AVAILABLE AT #YCLES )RFON OR OUT OF HOURS ON THE -AESYDRE INDUSTRIAL ESTATE OFF THE "EULAH 2OAD TO THE NORTH OF TOWN ,LANWRTYD CLAIMS TO HAVE INVENTED PONY TREKKING MODERN EXPONENTS INCLUDE &FOS &ARM ON &FOS 2OAD NORTHEAST OF TOWN .ZOZEE&QQZOUBOE-MBOHBNNBSDI8FMMT
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4HE GORGEOUS SCENERY AROUND THE TOWN OF ,LANWRTYD 7ELLS IS ONE OF ITS BIGGEST ATTRACTIONS AND NOWHERE IS THIS MORE EVIDENT THAN IN THE COUNTRY TO THE SOUTH WHERE THE REMOTE #RYCHAN &OREST AND THE DOLEFUL MOUNTAINS OF THE -YNYDD %PPYNT MAKE UP THE NORTHERN OUTCROPS OF THE "RECON "EACONS AND ARE MOST DRAMATICALLY VIEWED FROM ALONG THE ROADS THAT SNAKE ACROSS THE MOORS FROM THE TOWNS OF 'ARTH AND "UILTH 4HE BULK OF THE %PPYNT HAS BEEN APPROPRIATED BY THE "RITISH !RMY AS EVIDENCED BY THE MANY RED mAGS mYING STIFmY SIGNS WARN ING YOU NOT TO STOP OR TOUCH ANYTHING AND SADDEST OF ALL THE SPOOKY $ROV ERS !RMS MIDWAY BETWEEN 'ARTH AND 5PPER #HAPEL ON THE " ONCE A WELCOME RESPITE FOR THOSE DROVING CATTLE ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS AND NOW A BOARDED UP WRECK 4HE " DESCENDS DRAMATICALLY FROM THE %PPYNT ABOVE A BEAUTIFULLY ISOLATED VALLEY THE #WM 'RAIG $DU FROM WHERE THE VIEWS OVER MILES OF SOFT FARMLAND AND RIPPLING HILLS ARE OVERWHELMING !T THE BOTTOM OF THE HILL A LANE FORKS LEFT SOON TO JOIN THE 2IVER )RFON AS IT WINDS TO ,,!.'!--!2#( 7%,,3 FOUR MILES EAST OF ,LANWRTYD ! MILE BEFORE THE VILLAGE IS THE EXQUISITE BLACK AND WHITE TIMBERED ,AKE #OUNTRY (OUSE WWW LAKECOUNTRYHOUSECOUK THE HOME OF THE NOW DEFUNCT BARIUM WELL THAT ATTRACTED ,LOYD 'EORGE AND FOREIGN HEADS OF GOVERNMENTS SEARCHING FOR CURES AND PROBABLY THE BEST REASON TO COME HERE 4HE VILLAGE IS EXCELLENT FOR lSHING AND WALKING BUT SINGULARLY DULL OTHERWISE "CFSHXFTZOBOEUIF1BTT
!LTHOUGH THE DROVERS ROADS AND INNS ACROSS THE -YNYDD %PPYNT ARE NOW FORBID DEN TERRITORY THE MOST SPECTACULAR OF THE DROVERS ROUTES IS THANKFULLY STILL OPEN 4HE LANE FROM ,LANWRTYD MEETS UP WITH ANOTHER ROAD FROM "EULAH AT THE RIVER SIDE HAMLET OF !"%2'7%39. lVE MILES NORTH OF ,LANWRTYD &ROM HERE A QUITE MAGNIlCENT WINDING THREAD OF A ROAD n THE !BERGWESYN 0ASS n CLIMBS UP ALONGSIDE THE DWINDLING RIVER LEAVING IT AT THE PERILOUS $EVILS 3TAIRCASE AND PUSHING UP THROUGH DENSE CONIFER FORESTS TO WIDE SPARSE VALLEYS BEREFT OF ANY SIGN OF HUMAN HABITATION FRAMED BY CRAGGY PEAKS BUBBLING WATERFALLS AND BLOTCHES OF GORSE AND HEATHER !T THE LITTLE BRIDGE OVER THE TINY 4YWI 2IVER A TRACK HEADS SOUTH PAST AN ISOLATED GASLIT 9(! HOSTEL CLOSED /CTn!PRIL AT $/,'/#( /N THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RIVER A NEW ROAD CHANNELS PAST THE THICK FOREST ON TO ,LYN "RIANNE SEE P A COUPLE OF MILES FURTHER ON 4HIS IS AS REMOTE A WALKING HOLIDAY AS CAN BE HAD IN 7ALES n PATHS LEAD FROM $OLGOCH THROUGH THE FORESTS AND HILLSIDES TO THE EXQUISITELY ISOLATED CHAPEL AT 3/!2 9 -9.9$$ AND BEYOND OVER THE MOUNTAINS TO THE NEXT 9(! HOSTEL 4$N Y CORNEL CLOSED /CT TO LATE -ARCH lVE STRENUOUS MILES FROM $OLGOCH &ROM $OLGOCH THE !BERGWESYN 0ASS CONTINUES OVER THE MASSIVE WIDE TERRAIN BEFORE DROPPING DOWN ALONG THE ROUNDED VALLEY OF THE "ERWYN 2IVER AND INTO
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"UILTH 2OAD TRAIN STATION IS NEARLY THREE MILES NORTH OF THE TOWN AND INACCES SIBLE BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT n A TAXI WILL COST ABOUT a "USES DEPART FROM THE CAR PARK ALONGSIDE THE RIVER BRIDGE IN WHICH THE TOURIST OFlCE %ASTERn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM BUILTIC POWYSGOVUK IS TO BE FOUND "IKE RENTAL IS FROM *OHN ,LOYD AT "UILTH 7ELLS #YCLES ON 3MITHlELD 2OAD !CCOMMODATION COMES CHEAP TRY THE "RON 7YE "" AT #HURCH 3T THE CHEERFUL 'REYHOUND (OTEL A FEW MINUTES WEST OF THE TOWN CENTRE OR IF YOUR BUDGET STRETCHES A BIT FURTHER THE MUCH REVAMPED ,ION (OTEL AT THE END OF THE BRIDGE ON "ROAD 3TREET &OR FOOD THERE ARE NUMEROUS CHEAP DAYTIME CAFÏS THOUGH PUBS ARE THE ONLY EVENING OPTION 4HE 'REYHOUND AND THE ,ION HOTELS ABOVE ARE GOOD THOUGH FOR PLAIN OLD DRINKING TRY THE 7HITE (ORSE OR THE &OUNTAIN BOTH ON "ROAD 3TREET(IGH 3TREET
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/NE OF THE MOST POPULAR WALKS FROM ,LANDRINDOD HEADS EAST FROM THE TOWN ALONG #EFNLLYS 2OAD AND THROUGH SOME BEAUTIFUL WOODED POCKETS TO THE BANKS OF THE 2IVER )THON AT #%&.,,93 JUST UNDER TWO MILES AWAY ! CAR PARK BY THE RIVER LEADS ON TO 3HAKY "RIDGE WHOSE NAME DATES FROM WHEN JUST TWO PLANKS OF WOOD CONNECTED THE TWO BANKS n A MORE SOLID STRUCTURE IS IN EVIDENCE TODAY /N THE OTHER SIDE OF THE )THON THE CASTLE MOUND RISES TO THE RIGHT AND YOULL SEE THE DUMPY WITCHS HAT SPIRE OF THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 3T -ICHAELS CHURCH AHEAD )N 6ICTORIAN TIMES THE RECTOR REMOVED THE CHURCH ROOF TO PERSUADE THE FEW REMAINING PARISHIONERS TO TRAVEL INTO UP AND COMING ,LANDRINDOD INSTEAD FOR WORSHIP 4HERE WAS AN OUTCRY AND A COLLECTION AND THE ROOF WAS RESTORED JUST TWO YEARS LATER PHOTOGRAPHS IN THE CHURCH SHOW THIS STRANGE PERIOD IN ITS HISTORY "ACK ON THE ,LANDRINDOD SIDE OF THE RIVER "AILEY %INON 7OOD IS A DESIGNATED NATURE RESERVE RUNNING THREE QUARTERS OF A MILE ALONG THE RIVER %JTTFSUI
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"EFORE THE REORGANIZATION OF "RITISH COUNTIES IN 2ADNORSHIRE WAS THE MOST SPARSELY POPULATED COUNTY IN 7ALES OR %NGLAND AND ITS STILL A REMOTE AREA ESPECIALLY TO THE NORTH AND EAST )N THE NORTHWEST 2HAYADER IS THE ONLY SETTLE MENT OF ANY REAL SIZE ITS AN EXCELLENT BASE WITH SOME GREAT PUBS -OST PEOPLE STAY HERE IN ORDER TO EXPLORE THE WILD SPARTAN COUNTRYSIDE TO THE WEST OF THE TOWN A HILLY PATCHWORK OF WATERFALLS BOGLAND BARE PEAKS AND THE FOUR INTER LOCKING RESERVOIRS OF THE %LAN 6ALLEY BUILT AT THE BEGINNING OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY AND DISPLAYING A GRANDIOSE %DWARDIAN SOLIDITY 4HE COUNTRYSIDE TO THE NORTHEAST OF 2HAYADER IS SLIGHTLY TAMER WITH LANES AND BRIDLEPATHS DELVING IN AND AROUND THE WOODS AND FARMS OCCASIONALLY BRUSH ING THROUGH MINUTE SETTLEMENTS LIKE THE VILLAGE OF !BBEYCWMHIR NAMED FOR THE DESERTED #ISTERCIAN ABBEY THAT SITS BELOW IN THE DANK EERIE VALLEY OF THE #LYWEDOG "ROOK &ROM HERE THE HILLS ROLL EASTWARDS TOWARDS THE %NGLISH BORDER AND SOME OF THE MOST INTACT PARTS OF /FFAS $YKE THE EIGHTH CENTURY +ING OF -ERCIAS BORDER WITH THE 7ELSH PRINCES 4HE HANDSOME TOWN OF +NIGHTON PERCHED RIGHT ON THE BORDER IS AT THE CENTRE OF THE MILE PATH THAT RUNS ALONG THE DYKE AND IS WELL GEARED UP FOR WALKERS AND CYCLISTS WITH GOOD ACCOMMODA TION AND CHEERY PUBS AND CAFÏS 3EVEN MILES SOUTH AND INCHES FROM %NGLAND THE DIGNIlED LITTLE TOWN OF 0RESTEIGNE CONTAINS A FEW REMINDERS OF ITS FORMER IMPORTANCE AS THE COUNTY CAPITAL 4HE 2IVER ,UGG mOWS THROUGH 0RESTEIGNE FROM THE 2ADNORSHIRE HILLS PASSING THE ISOLATED CHURCH AT 0ILLETH WHERE /WAIN 'LYND"R CAPTURED 3IR %DMUND -ORTIMER AGENT OF THE %NGLISH KING IN
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"USES STOP IN THE MAIN $ARK ,ANE CAR PARK OPPOSITE THE TOURIST OFlCE !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH -ONn4UES 4HURSn3AT AMnPM WWWRHAYADERCOUK WHICH SHARES ITS BUILDING WITH A LEISURE CENTRE 2HAYADER HAS ALWAYS BEEN WELL SERVICED
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FOR VISITORS AND EIGHTEENTH CENTURY COACHING INNS STILL LINE THE MAIN STREETS -ORE MODERN ACCOMMODATION INCLUDES THE ENJOYABLE %LAN 6ALLEY (OTEL TWO MILES WEST OF 2HYADER SEE OPPOSITE THE CHEERFUL "RYNTEG "" ON %AST 3TREET AND THE %LAN (OTEL ON 7EST 3TREET WWWELANHOTELCOUK 4HE CHEAPEST PLACE IN TOWN IS 'REENlELDS ON 3OUTH 3T WHICH OFFERS "" AND HOSTEL BEDS a !LMOST TWO MILES NORTHEAST OF TOWN OFF THE !BBEYCWMHIR 2OAD IS "EILI .EUADD WWWMIDWALESFARMSTAYCOUK A VERY RELAXING FARMHOUSE "" THAT ALSO HAS A SIXTEENTH CENTURY STONE BARN BUNK HOUSE 4HERES A CAMPSITE AT 7YESIDE a PER PITCH A FEW HUNDRED YARDS NORTH OF TOWN OFF THE ! ALTHOUGH A QUIETER AND LESS mASHY OPTION IS THE RED KITE CENTRE A lFTEEN MINUTE WALK SOUTH OF TOWN AT 'IGRIN &ARM a PER PITCH 2HAYADER IS AN IDEAL BASE FOR A BIKING HOLIDAY CYCLES CAN BE RENTED AS WELL AS ALL INCLUSIVE CYCLING PACKAGES BOOKED THROUGH THE REDOUBTABLE #LIVE 0OWELL -OUNTAIN "IKES WWWCLIVEPOWELL MTBCOUK ON 7EST 3TREET $URING THE DAY #AROLES /LD 3WAN TEAROOMS AT THE JUNCTION OF 7EST AND 3OUTH STREETS IS THE PLACE TO GO FOR SIMPLE FOOD %VENING MEALS ARE GOOD AT THE MODERATE "RYNAFON RESTAURANT HALF A MILE SOUTH ON THE ROAD TO "UILTH 7ELLS OR THE %LAN 6ALLEY (OTEL SEE OPPOSITE $ESPITE HAVING A POPULATION OF LESS THAN TWO THOUSAND THERE ARE TWELVE PUBS IN 2HAYADER MOST OFFERING REASONABLE PUB FOOD 4RY THE LIVELY #ROWN )NN ON .ORTH 3TREET OR OVER "RIDGE 3TREET IN THE SMALL HAMLET OF ,,!.3!.4&&2!%$ #7-$%5$ $72 USUALLY SHORTENED TO #WMDEUDDWR THE ANCIENT 4RIANGLE )NN WHOSE TOILETS ARE ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE STREET AND WHERE DARTS PLAYERS MUST STAND IN A SPECIAL mOOR HOLE FOR FEAR OF SPEARING THE ROOF &MBO7BMMFZ
5NTIL THE LAST DECADE OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY THE UNTAMED COUNTRYSIDE WEST OF 2HAYADER RECEIVED FEW VISITORS ALTHOUGH THE POET 3HELLEY DID HOLIDAY HERE HIS HONEYMOON RETREAT AT .ANTGWYLLT WAS AMONGST THE COUPLE OF DOZEN BUILD INGS SUBMERGED BY THE WATERS OF THE %LAN 6ALLEY RESERVOIRS A NINE MILE LONG STRING OF FOUR LAKES CREATED BETWEEN AND TO SUPPLY WATER TO THE RAPIDLY GROWING INDUSTRIAL CITY OF "IRMINGHAM MILES AWAY IN THE S A SUPPLEMENTARY RESERVOIR AT #LAERWEN TO THE IMMEDIATE WEST WAS OPENED SEE OPPOSITE !LTHOUGH THE LAKES ENHANCE AN ALREADY BEAUTIFUL AND IDYLLIC PART OF THE WORLD THE COLONIALIST WAY IN WHICH 7ELSH VALLEYS VILLAGES AND FARMSTEADS WERE SEIZED AND mOODED TO PROVIDE WATER FOR %NGLAND IS SOMETHING THE TOURIST BOARDS PREFER TO GLOSS OVER 4HE NATURAL RESENTMENT AGAINST THIS HAS PERHAPS BEEN BEST EXPRESSED BY POET 23 4HOMAS IN HIS SOULFUL ELEGY 2ESERVOIRS 4HEREªAREªPLACESªINª7ALESª)ªDONTªGO 2ESERVOIRSªTHATªAREªTHEªSUBCONSCIOUS /FªAªPEOPLE ªTROUBLEDªFARªDOWN 7ITHªGRAVESTONES ªCHAPELS ªVILLAGESªEVEN 4HEªSERENITYªOFªTHEIRªEXPRESSIONª 2EVOLTSªME ªITªISªAªPOSE &ORªSTRANGERS ªAªWATERCOLOURSªAPPEAL 4OªTHEªMASS ªINSTEADªOFªTHEªPOEMS (ARSHERªCONDITIONSª4HEREªAREªTHEªHILLS 4OOªGARDENSªGONEªUNDERªTHEªSCUM /FªTHEªFORESTSªANDªTHEªSMASHEDªFACESª /FªTHEªFARMSªWITHªTHEªSTONEªTRICKLE /FªTHEIRªTEARSªDOWNªTHEªHILLSªSIDE
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4HE hWATERCOLOURS APPEALv OF THE %LAN 6ALLEY IS NONETHELESS EXTREMELY STRONG NOT ONLY FOR THE LANDSCAPE BUT THE PROFUSION OF RARE PLANTS AND BIRDS IN THE AREA 2ED KITES ARE ESPECIALLY CHERISHED n IN THE S WHEN NUMBERS WERE DOWN TO JUST A COUPLE OF BREEDING PAIRS THE %LAN 6ALLEY LOOKED SET TO ENTER THE HISTORY BOOKS AS THEIR LAST OUTPOST IN "RITAIN ,OSS OF HABITAT ALONG WITH NEST ROBBING BY COLLECTORS AND POISONING AT THE HANDS OF FARMERS WERE LARGELY TO BLAME BUT CONSERVATION WORK UNDERTAKEN BY A FEW DEDICATED INDIVIDUALS SAVED THE DAY 3INCE THEN THE KITES HAVE STAGED AN IMPRESSIVE RECOVERY NOW NUMBERING OVER lVE HUNDRED INDIVIDUALS AND HAVE BECOME SO COMMON HERE THEYVE STARTED REPOPULATING THE REST OF THE COUNTRY &ROM 2HAYADER THE " HEADS SOUTHWEST FOUR MILES TO %,!. VILLAGE A CURIOUS COLLECTION OF STONE HOUSES BUILT IN TO REPLACE THE RESERVOIR CONSTRUC TORS VILLAGE THAT HAD GROWN UP ON THE SITE *UST BELOW THE DAM OF THE lRST RESER VOIR #ABAN #OCH THE %LAN 6ALLEY VISITOR CENTRE MID -ARCH TO /CT DAILY AMnPM INCORPORATES A TOURIST OFlCE AND A PERMANENT EXHIBITION ABOUT THE HISTORY AND ECOLOGY OF THE AREA &REQUENT GUIDED WALKS AND EVEN ,AND 2OVER SAFARIS HEAD OFF FROM THE CENTRE 4HE BEST PLACE TO STAY HERE IS THE %LAN 6ALLEY (OTEL WWWELANVALLEYHOTELCOUK AN IMPOSING NEO #OLONIAL PILE ON THE 2HAYADER SIDE OF %LAN VILLAGE WHICH OFFERS GREAT FOOD COMFY ROOMS AND A LIVELY BAR &ROM THE VISITOR CENTRE A ROAD TUCKS IN ALONG THE BANK OF #ABAN #OCH TO THE 'ARREG $DU VIADUCT WHERE A ROAD WINDS ALONG THE BANK FOR FOUR SPECTACULAR MILES TO THE VAST RATHER CHILLING DAM ON #LAERWEN 2ESERVOIR -ORE REMOTE AND LESS POPULAR THAN THE %LAN LAKES #LAERWEN IS A GOOD BASE FOR THE MORE DETER MINED WALKER YOU CAN FOLLOW PATHS FOR EIGHT TO TEN MILES ACROSS THE HARSH TERRAIN TO THE ABBEY OF 3TRATA &LORIDA OR THE LONELY 4EIl 0OOLS "ACK AT THE 'ARREG $DU VIADUCT A MORE POPULAR ROAD CONTINUES NORTH ALONG THE LONG GLASSY lNGER OF 'ARREG $DU RESERVOIR BEFORE DOUBLING BACK ON ITSELF JUST BELOW THE AWESOME 0EN Y GARREG DAM AND RESERVOIR IF THE DAM IS OVERmOWING THE VAST WALL OF FOAMING WATER IS MESMERIZING !T THE TOP OF 0EN Y GARREG LAKE ITS POSSIBLE TO DRIVE OVER THE lNAL OR MORE PROPERLY THE lRST DAM ON THE SYSTEM AT #RAIG 'OCH 4HIS IS THE MOST PHOTOGRAPHED OF ALL
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THE DAMS THANKS TO ITS GRACIOUS CURVE ELEGANT %DWARDIAN ARCHES AND NEAT LITTLE GREEN CUPOLA 4HE LAKE BEYOND IT IS FED BY THE %LAN 2IVER WHICH THE ROAD CROSSES JUST SHORT OF A JUNCTION ! BLEAK INVIGORATING MOORLAND PASS HEADS WEST FROM HERE TO DROP INTO THE EERIE MOONSCAPE OF #WMYSTWYTH SEE P WHILE THE EASTBOUND ROAD FUNNELS INTO A BEAUTIFUL VALLEY BACK TO 2HAYADER /N THE WAY BACK FORK OFF THE %LAN 6ALLEY 2OAD IN 2HAYADER ONTO THE SMALLER !BERYSTWYTH 2OAD 4HE ONLY BUS ROUTE HEREABOUTS IS THE POSTBUS FROM ,LANDRINDOD AND 2HAYADER -ONn&RI WHICH RUNS AS FAR AS THE %LAN 6ALLEY VISITOR CENTRE 4HE TWO SERVICES ALLOW YOU TO SPEND AROUND THREE HOURS IN AND AROUND THE VISITOR CENTRE "CCFZDXNIJS
!""%9#7-()2 !BATY #WM (IR SEVEN MILES NORTHEAST OF 2HAYADER TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE ABBEY WHOSE SOMBRE RUINS OPEN ACCESS FREE LIE BENEATH THE VILLAGE #ISTERCIAN MONKS FOUNDED THE ABBEY IN PLANNING ONE OF THE LARGEST CHURCHES IN "RITAIN WHOSE FOOT NAVE HAS ONLY EVER BEEN EXCEEDED IN LENGTH BY THE CATHEDRALS OF $URHAM 9ORK AND 7INCHESTER $ESTRUCTION BY (ENRY )))S TROOPS IN SCUPPERED PLANS TO CONTINUE THE BUILDING HOWEVER 4HE SPARSE RUINS OF WHAT THEY DID BUILD n A ROCKY OUTLINE OF THE mOORPLAN n LIE IN A CONIFER CARPETED VALLEY ALONGSIDE A GLOOMY GREEN LAKE LENDING WEIGHT IF ONLY BY ATMOSPHERE TO THE SITES MELANCHOLIC ASSOCIATIONS ,LYWELYN AP 'RUFFY DDS BODY AFTER HIS HEAD HAD BEEN CARTED OFF TO ,ONDON WAS RUMOURED TO HAVE BEEN BROUGHT HERE FROM #ILMERI IN AND A NEW GRANITE SLAB CARVED WITH A #ELTIC SWORD LIES ON THE ALTAR TO COMMEMORATE THIS LAST NATIVE PRINCE OF 7ALES )T SHOULD LOOK INCONGRUOUS BUT SOMEHOW IT ONLY ADDS TO THE EERIE PRESENCE OF THE RUINS AND THE VILLAGE
1SFTUFJHOFBOEBSPVOE 4HE ARCHITECTURE OF TINY OLD FASHIONED 02%34%)'.% ,LANANDRAS TWENTY MILES EAST OF ,LANDRINDOD 7ELLS REEKS OF ITS FORMER STATUS AS COUNTY TOWN BUT ITS CONTEMPORARY FEEL HAS MORE TO DO WITH THE SIZEABLE COMMUNITY OF RAT RACE REFUGEES WHO lRST DESCENDED ON THE TOWN IN THE S AND HAVE CONTINUED TO ARRIVE EVER SINCE 4HERES A RELAXED PACE TO THE PLACE PERFECT FOR MOOCHING AROUND THE CENTRE n "ROAD (IGH AND (EREFORD STREETS n DIPPING INTO SOME ENJOYABLY MUSTY SECOND HAND BOOK AND ANTIQUE SHOPS IN BETWEEN THE QUALITY CRAFT SHOPS AND LAID BACK CAFÏS 0RESTEIGNE LIES SNUGLY BETWEEN THE " TOWN BYPASS AND THE 2IVER ,UGG THE BORDER WITH %NGLAND WHICH mOWS UNDER THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY BRIDGE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE HANDSOME "ROAD 3TREET *UST BEFORE THE BRIDGE THE SOLID PARISH CHURCH OF 3T !NDREW CONTAINS 3AXON AND .ORMAN FRAGMENTS AS WELL AS A SIXTEENTH CENTURY &LEMISH TAPESTRY 4O THE LEFT OF THE MAIN CHURCHYARD ENTRANCE ARE TWIN GRAVESTONES THAT GIVE AN INSIGHT INTO EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY MORALS THE ORIGINAL STONE COMMEMORATES ONE -ARY -ORGAN WHO IN GAVE BIRTH TO AN ILLEGITIMATE CHILD THAT HER FATHER PERSUADED HER TO MURDER HE THEN SAT ON THE JURY THAT CONDEMNED HER TO DEATH ! SANCTIMONIOUS INSCRIPTION RECORDS THAT SHE WAS hUNENLIGHTENED BY THE SACRED TRUTHS OF #HRISTIANITYv AND hBECAME THE VICTIM OF SIN AND SHAME AND WAS CONDEMNED TO AN IGNOMINIOUS DEATHv /PPOSITE IS A LATER STONE ERECTED IN REPENTANCE BY THE TOWNSFOLK INSCRIBED h(E THAT IS WITHOUT SIN AMONG YOU LET HIM lRST CAST A STONE AT HERv -ARY -ORGANS TRIAL WOULD HAVE TAKEN PLACE UP THE STREET AT THE *UDGES ,ODGING -ARCHn/CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn#HRISTMAS 7EDn3UN AMnPM
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"USES FROM +NIGHTON +INGTON AND ,EOMINSTER STOP OUTSIDE THE 2ADNORSHIRE !RMS OR AT THE COACH PARK ON THE BYPASS 4HE *UDGES ,ODGING ALSO CONTAINS THE TOURIST OFlCE SAME HOURS WHERE YOU CAN GET DETAILS OF LOCAL ACCOMMODATION WHICH RANGES FROM PERIOD LUXURY AT THE CLASSY 2ADNOR SHIRE !RMS ON (EREFORD 3TREET TO THE SIMPLER CHARMS OF THE "" AT #HURCH 3T OR THE GREAT VALUE #ARMEL #OURT AN OLD NUNNERY ON +INGS 4URNING 2OAD ON THE EASTERN ENTRANCE TO TOWN 4HERES SOME GOOD OPTIONS IN THE SURROUNDING VILLAGES THE SUMPTUOUS 6ICTORIANA OF THE /LD 6ICARAGE IN .ORTON TWO MILES NORTH ON THE ROAD TO +NIGHTON AND THE HOMELIER CHARMS OF 'UMMA &ARM NEARLY TWO MILES WEST ON THE ROAD TO $ISCOED WHERE YOU CAN ALSO CAMP a PER PERSON 4HERES A FULLER SITE INCLUDING CARAVANS AT 2OCKBRIDGE 0ARK a PER PERSON HALF A MILE NEARER TOWN ON THE BANKS OF THE 2IVER ,UGG 0RESTEIGNE HAS BECOME A CENTRE FOR FOLK AND TRADITIONAL MUSIC WITH EXCELLENT FESTIVALS IN *ULY AND OVER THE !UGUST BANK HOLIDAY DETAILS FROM THE TOURIST OFlCE THE FORMER WWWSHEEPMUSICINFO ORGANIZED BY THE EXCELLENT FREE MUSIC PAPER "ROAD 3HEEP AVAILABLE FROM VENUES AROUND TOWN 4HE &ARMERS )NN ON (EREFORD 3TREET IS THE TOWNS LIVELIEST PUB AND SERVES DECENT FOOD THOUGH FOR SOMETHING A LITTLE MORE FORMAL MAKE FOR THE 2ADNOR SHIRE !RMS WITH A MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANT AND A WOOD BEAMED BAR !LTER NATIVELY THE CAFÏS ON THE (IGH 3TREET ARE WORTH INVESTIGATING AS IS THE OLD FASH IONED "ARLEY -OW PUB ON (EREFORD 3TREET
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a A BEAUTIFULLY INTERPRETED TRAWL THROUGH THE ROOMS WHERE CIRCUIT JUDGES STAYED WHILE PRESIDING OVER THE LOCAL ASSIZES 4HE BUILDING SPENT LONG YEARS AS THE DISTRICT MUSEUM AND FOLK HAD FORGOTTEN THAT MANY OF THE ORIGINAL FURNISHINGS HAD BEEN STASHED IN THE ATTIC A BOON WHEN THE DECISION WAS MADE TO RESTORE THE PLACE TO ITS GRANDEUR 9OU NOW FOLLOW AN AUDIO TOUR BEING hINTRODUCEDv TO CHARACTERS ALONG THE WAY BUT WITH THE FREEDOM TO STOP AND INSPECT THE FURNISH INGS AND EVEN LOUNGE ON THE SOFAS .OTHING IS ROPED OFF OR HIDDEN BEHIND SCREENS AND IT FEELS MORE LIKE VISITING A PRIVATE HOME THAN A MUSEUM 4HE OIL LAMPS THAT LIGHT THE UPPER mOORS AND THE GAS mAME LIGHTING IN THE SERVANTS QUARTERS PROVIDE A WHIFF OF AUTHENTICITY 9OU lNALLY EMERGE IN THE COURTROOM WHERE AN ALLEGED THIEF THAT YOUVE hMETv IN THE CELLS IS BEING TRIED &ROM THE MUSEUM "ROAD 3TREET HEADS UP TO THE MAIN CROSSROADS WITH THE (IGH 3TREET FORKING WEST AND (EREFORD 3TREET TO THE EAST /N THE CORNER OF (EREFORD AND "ROAD STREETS THE NINETEENTH CENTURY )TALIANATE !SSEMBLY 2OOMS ALSO HOUSE THE TOWNS LIBRARY (IGH 3TREET CONTAINS THE TOWNS MOST IMPRESSIVE BUILDING THOUGH THE *ACOBEAN 2ADNORSHIRE !RMS BUILT AS A PRIVATE HOME FOR *OHN "RADSHAW A SIGNATORY ON THE DEATH WARRANT OF #HARLES ) AND CONVERTED INTO AN INN IN
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*UST OFF THE ! SIX MILES SOUTHWEST OF 0RESTEIGNE AND LOOKING LIKE ITS BEEN HEWN STRAIGHT FROM THE HILLSIDE /,$ 2!$./2 WAS ONCE THE HOME OF +ING (AROLD KILLED AT THE "ATTLE OF (ASTINGS BY 7ILLIAM THE #ONQUERORS TROOPS 4HE SITE OF HIS CASTLE IS DOWN THE LANE RUNNING SOUTHEAST FROM THE LARGE VERY %NGLISH LOOKING CHURCH OVERLOOKING A WOODED VALE )NSIDE THE CHURCH A MASSIVE EIGHTH CENTURY FONT ON FOUR STONE FEET IS THE MOST REMARKABLE LEGACY /PPOSITE THE RAMBLING lFTEENTH CENTURY (ARP )NN HAS BEEN MAGNIlCENTLY RESTORED FROM ITS EARLIER USE AS A FARM COTTAGE
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.%7 2!$./2 JUST OVER TWO MILES TO THE WEST WAS BUILT AS A SMALL .ORMAN SETTLEMENT AND THEN PLANNED IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY TO BE EXPANDED INTO A MAJOR CITY AND CAPITAL OF 2ADNORSHIRE 4HE PROJECT FALTERED CONlRMING 7ALES ANTIPATHY TOWARDS LARGE SETTLEMENTS IN FAVOUR OF THE MORE COMMON FEATURE OF SCATTERED FARMSTEADS 4ODAY YOU ENTER THE VILLAGE FROM THE ! TO THE SOUTHEAST PAST A 6ICTORIAN STEEPLE ERECTED TO HONOUR LOCAL DIGNITARY 3IR 'EORGE #ORNEWALL ,EWIS 4HIS IS THE ONLY FEATURE OF THE VILLAGE THAT SEEMS TO SUGGEST ANY KIND OF METROPOLITAN STATUS AS THE COUPLE OF STREETS ARE DEATHLY QUIET WITH JUST THE 2ADNOR !RMS ON "ROAD 3TREET TO LIVEN THINGS UP 5IF3BEOPS'PSFTU
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.ORTH OF .EW 2ADNOR THE DEEP CLEFTED VALLEYS AND WOODED HILLSIDES OF 2ADNOR &OREST OFFER SOME OF THE REGIONS BEST WALKING 4HE MOST POPULAR ROUTE IS ALONG THE DRIVEABLE TRACK THAT FORKS NORTH OFF THE ! JUST OVER A MILE WEST OF .EW 2ADNOR LEADING INTO A THICK FOREST AND TO THE RUSHING CASCADE OF THE 7ATER BREAK ITS NECK WATERFALL AT ITS FOAMING BEST IN WINTER 4HE TRACKWAY THAT CONTINUES ON LEADS PAST THE HEADS OF NUMEROUS STEEP VALLEYS PLUNGING DOWN TO THE LOWLAND GIVING PERHAPS THE BEST IMPRESSION OF THE AREAS STRANGE GEOLOGY BEFORE COMING OUT AT THE VILLAGE OF ,LANlHANGEL 2HYDITHON SOME lVE MILES BEYOND 7ATER BREAK ITS NECK 0ATHS HEAD OFF THE TRACK TO THE EAST UP AND OVER THE ROUNDED PEAKS OF THE FOREST AND DOWN TOWARDS THE HAMLET OF #ASGOB DEEP IN THE NORTHEASTERN CORNER 4HE TINY CHURCH HERE COMPLETE WITH HALF TIMBERED TOWER CONTAINS A REMARKABLE SIXTEENTH CENTURY AMULET PURPORTING TO EXORCIZE ONE %LIZABETH ,LOYD FROM hALL WITCHCRAFT AND FROM ALL EVIL SPIRITS AND FROM ALL EVIL MEN OR WOMEN OR WIZARDESv TOGETHER WITH NUMEROUS GNOSTIC SYMBOLS ASTROLOGICAL MOTIFS AND THE WORD hABRACADABRAv WRITTEN AS A TRIANGULAR PATTERN SAID BY VARIOUS 'NOS TICS AND MYSTICS TO HAVE BEEN DEVISED FROM SECRET KNOWLEDGE MORE POWERFUL THAN #HRISTIANITY 4HREE MILES EAST OF #ASGOB ALONG TINY LANES THE SMALL VILLAGE CHURCH AT $ISCOED IS FRONTED BY A YEW TREE DATED TO AROUND YEARS OLD MAKING IT AMONGST THE OLDEST LIVING ORGANISMS IN "RITAIN )TS AN AMAZING SIGHT THE CENTU RIES HAVE SPLIT AND CRACKED THE BARK TWISTING THE VAST TREE IN ALL DIRECTIONS AND CREATING A CENTRAL CHASM BIG ENOUGH TO SIT IN BUT FRESH GREEN SHOOTS CONTINUE TO SPROUT ALL THE SAME 4HE " FROM 0RESTEIGNE FOLLOWS THE 2IVER ,UGG AS IT SKIRTS THE UPPER EDGE OF THE 2ADNOR &OREST AND PASSES A DELIGHTFUL EXAMPLE OF AN UNADORNED 7ELSH COUNTRY CHURCH AT 0),,%4( ! QUIET ENOUGH PLACE THESE DAYS 0ILLETH HAD ITS MOMENT IN THE SPOTLIGHT ON -IDSUMMER $AY IN WHEN IT WITNESSED THE BLOODIEST AND MOST FAMOUS BATTLE OF /WAIN 'LYND"RS WAR OF INDEPENDENCE 4HE %NGLISH FORCES LED BY %DMUND -ORTIMER WERE ROUTED BY 'LYND"RS NUMERICALLY FEWER BUT FAR SHARPER TROOPS -ORTIMER WAS CAPTURED AND n ABOUT HALF n OF THE %NGLISH TROOPS WERE KILLED 4HE MASS GRAVE A MOUND MARKED BY FOUR LONELY PINE TREES ABOVE THE CHURCH CAN STILL BE SEEN TODAY
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+.)'(4/. 4REF Y CLAWDD hTHE TOWN ON THE DYKEv SIX MILES NORTH OF 0RESTEIGNE STRADDLES +ING /FFAS EIGHTH CENTURY BORDER AS WELL AS THE MODERN 7ALESn%NGLAND DIVIDE AND HAS COME INTO ITS OWN AS THE MOST OBVIOUS CENTRE FOR THOSE WALKING THE /FFAS $YKE 0ATH ,OCATED ALMOST EXACTLY HALFWAY ALONG
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THE ROUTE +NIGHTON ALTHOUGH WITHOUT MANY SPECIlC SIGHTS IS A LIVELY ATTRACTIVE PLACE THAT EASILY WARRANTS A STOPOFF 3O CLOSE IS +NIGHTON TO THE BORDER THAT THE TOWNS TRAIN STATION IS ACTUALLY IN %NGLAND &ROM HERE 3TATION 2OAD CROSSES THE 2IVER 4EME INTO 7ALES AND CLIMBS A COUPLE OF HUNDRED YARDS INTO THE TOWN JOINING THE PRETTY "ROAD 3TREET AT "ROOK SIDE 3QUARE &URTHER UP THE HILL IS THE TOWNS 6ICTORIAN CLOCKTOWER WHERE "ROAD 3TREET BECOMES 7EST 3TREET AND THE STEEP (IGH 3TREET SOARS OFF UP TO THE LEFT PAST RICKETY 4UDOR BUILDINGS AND UP TO THE MOUND OF THE OLD CASTLE )N 7EST 3TREET THE EXCELLENT /FFAS $YKE #ENTRE %ASTERn/CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn%ASTER -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM WWWOFFASDYKE DEMONCOUK ALSO HOUSES THE TOURIST OFlCE SAME HOURS ,OOMING HIGH ABOVE +NIGHTON A MILE OFF THE ! THE 3PACEGUARD #ENTRE IS HOUSED IN THE FORMER 0OWYS #OUNTY /BSERVATORY OPEN YEAR ROUND 7EDn3UN BANK HOLIDAY TOURS AT AM PM PM EVENING TOURS PRE BOOKABLE ON WWWSPACEGUARDUKCOM a DAY a EVENING AND HAS A PLANETARIUM CAMERA OBSCURA AND SOLAR TELESCOPE !CCOMMODATION IN +NIGHTON IS PLENTIFUL AND GENERALLY GOOD VALUE THERES THE REVAMPED +NIGHTON (OTEL RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE ON "ROAD 3TREET &LEECE (OUSE "" AT THE TOP OF (IGH 3TREET WWW mEECEHOUSECOUK WITH EN SUITE TWIN ROOMS AND THE BARGAIN *ENNY 3TOTHERTS BEHIND THE IMPOSING PARISH CHURCH AT -ILL 'REEN WHERE YOU CAN ALSO CAMP FOR a 4HERES ANOTHER LOW COST TENT lELD AT 0ANPWN TON &ARM OVER THE RIVER AND HALF A MILE UP THE LANE THAT FORKS LEFT AT THE STATION &OR EATING AND DRINKING ITS HARD TO BEAT THE COMFORTABLE (ORSE AND *OCKEY AT THE TOWN END OF 3TATION 2OAD WHICH HAS A VAST MENU FOR LUNCH AND EARLY EVENING SERVES HUGE TASTY PIZZAS UNTIL PM AND PACKS IN LIVE MUSIC AND DISCOS AS WELL 4HE 2ED ,ION HAS LARGE INEXPENSIVE PORTIONS OF BASIC PUB FOOD AND FOR A CHEAP BREAKFAST OR LUNCH TRY *$S CAFÏ ON #HURCH 3TREET 4HE LOCAL BIKE RENTAL lRM 7HEELY 7ONDERFUL IS OVER THE BORDER IN 3HROPSHIRE AT 0ETCHlELD &ARM %LTON NEAR ,UDLOW IT WILL DELIVER TO +NIGHTON IF YOURE WITHOUT A CAR
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4HE NORTHERN PART OF 0OWYS IS MADE UP OF THE OLD COUNTY OF -ONTGOMERY SHIRE AN AREA OF ENORMOUSLY VARYING LANDSCAPES AND FEW INHABITANTS 4HE BEST BASE FOR THE SPARTAN AND MOUNTAINOUS SOUTHWEST OF THE COUNTY IS THE SOLID LITTLE TOWN OF ,LANIDLOES A SPIRITED PLACE AND A BASE FOR AGEING HIPPIES TEN MILES NORTH OF 2HAYADER ON THE 2IVER 3EVERN !FON (AFREN WHICH ARRIVES IN THE TOWN AFTER RISING NEARBY IN THE DENSE (AFREN &OREST ON THE BLEAK SLOPES OF 0LYNLIMON &ROM ,LANIDLOES ONE OF 7ALES MOST DRAMATIC ROADS RISES PAST THE CHILLY SHORES OF THE ,LYN #LYWEDOG RESERVOIR SQUEEZED INTO SHARP HILLSIDES AND UP THROUGH THE REMOTE HAMLETS OF 3TAYLITTLE AND $YLIFE 4HIS STARK UPLIFTING SCENERY CONTRASTS WITH THE GENTLER GREENER CONTOURS THAT CHARACTERIZE THE EAST OF THE COUNTY WHERE THE MUTED OLD COUNTY TOWN OF -ONTGOMERY WITH ITS lNE 'EORGIAN ARCHITECTURE PERCHES ABOVE THE BORDER AND /FFAS $YKE 4HE 3EVERN RUNS A FEW MILES TO THE WEST NEAR THE IMPECCABLE VILLAGE OF "ERRIEW HOME OF THE SPLENDID !NDREW ,OGAN -USEUM OF 3CULPTURE AND BELOW THE DANK HILLTOP REMAINS OF $OLFORWYN #ASTLE &URTHER SOUTH THE 3EVERN RUNS IN A MUDDY CHANNEL THROUGH DRAB .EWTOWN GOOD ONLY AS A TRANSPORT INTERCHANGE AND FOR FOLLOWERS OF 2OBERT /WEN THE PIONEER SOCIALIST )N THE NORTH OF THE COUNTY 7ELSHPOOL FORMS THE ONLY MAJOR SETTLEMENT PACKED IN ABOVE THE WIDE mOOD PLAIN OF THE 3EVERN !N EXCELLENT LOCAL MUSEUM THE IMPOSSIBLY CUTE TOY RAIL LINE THAT RUNS TO ,LANFAIR #AEREINION GOOD PUBS AND REASONABLE HOTELS MAKE THE TOWN A FAIR STOP FOR A DAY OR TWO /N THE SOUTHERN SIDE OF 7ELSHPOOL IS -ONTGOMERYSHIRES ONE UNMISSABLE SIGHT THE SUMPTUOUS 0OWIS #ASTLE AND ITS EXQUISITE TERRACED GARDENS 4HE VERY NORTH OF THE COUNTY IS PASTORAL DESERTED AND BEAUTIFUL 4HE FEW VISITORS THAT THERE ARE THRONG ,AKE 6YRNWY AND MAKE THEIR WAY DOWN THE DEAD END LANE TO THE 0ISTYLL 2HAEADR WATERFALL LEAVING THE LEAFY LANES AND VILLAGES LIKE ,LANFYLLIN AND ,LANRHAEADR YM MOCHNANT INTACT FOR THOSE SEARCHING FOR PEACE CHEERFUL PUBS AND GOOD WALKING
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,LANIDLOES IS A GOOD BASE WITH FRIENDLY PUBS AND RESTAURANTS AND PLENTY OF PLACES TO STAY #HINA 3TREET CURVES DOWN TO THE CAR PARK FROM WHERE ALL BUS SERV ICES OPERATE 4HE TOURIST OFlCE !PRILn3EPT DAILY AMnPM /CTn-ARCH -ONn3AT AMnPM LLANTIC POWYSGOVUK IS AT ,ONG "RIDGE 3T NEAR THE MARKET HALL &OR NEWS OF ALTERNATIVE EVENTS n LIKE THE &ANCY $RESS .IGHT ON THE lRST &RIDAY OF *ULY WHEN THE PUBS OPEN LATE THE STREETS ARE CORDONED OFF AND VIRTUALLY THE WHOLE TOWN GETS KITTED OUT n PICK
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UP THE FREE MONTHLY COMMUNITY PAPER THE ,LANI 'AZETTE OR VISIT THE EXCELLENT 2ESOURCE #ENTRE ON 'REAT /AK 3TREET !T THE BOTTOM OF THE ROAD IS THE AREAS BEST BOOKSHOP 'REAT /AK WITH LOADS OF #ELTIC AND 7ELSH INTEREST STUFF AND A BARN FULL OF GOOD NEW AND SECOND HAND lCTION !CCOMMODATION SPANS THE DELIGHTFUL 2ED ,ION (OTEL AND THE MORE MODEST 5NICORN BOTH ON ,ONG "RIDGE 3TREET 4HE NICEST OPTION IS ,LOYDS (OTEL WWW LLOYDSHOTELCOUK ON #AMBRIAN 0LACE WHICH IS ALSO A SUPERB RESTAURANT n BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL 9OU CAN CAMP AROUND lFTEEN MINUTES WALK NORTH OF TOWN AT $OL LLYS &ARM a PER PERSON WHICH ALLOWS CAMP lRES DOWN BY THE INFANT 2IVER 3EVERN !MONG THE MANY OPTIONS FOR FOOD THERES WHOLESOME VEGGIE FARE IN THE LAID BACK 'REAT /AK #AFÏ ON 'REAT /AK 3TREET OR A FEW DOORS DOWN A GREAT EXAMPLE OF THAT 7ELSH DAYTIME CAFF INSTITUTION THE .ATIONAL -ILK "AR &OR A BIT OF A TREAT GO TO ,LOYDS SEE ABOVE -OST OF THE PUBS HERE SERVE FOOD n THE INEXPENSIVE 5NICORN HOTEL SEE ABOVE AND THE OLDE WORLDE -OUNT )NN ON #HINA 3TREET ARE THE BEST OPTIONS -MZO$MZXFEPH 1MZOMJNPO %ZMJGFBOE4UBZMJUUMF
&OUR MILES NORTHWEST OF ,LANIDLOES THE BEAUTIFUL ,LYN #LYWEDOG RESERVOIR WAS BUILT AS RECENTLY AS THE S AND HAS SETTLED WELL INTO THE FOLDS OF THE #LYWEDOG 6ALLEY !T ITS SOUTHERN END THE MODERN CONCRETE DAM IS "RITAINS TALL EST FT TOWERING MENACINGLY OVER THE REMNANTS OF THE "RYNTAIL LEAD MINE THROUGH WHICH A SIGNPOSTED PATH RUNS 4HE ROADS ALONG THE SOUTHERN SHORES OF #LYWEDOG WIND AROUND INTO THE DENSE PLANTATION OF (AFREN &OREST THE ONLY REAL SIGN OF LIFE AND VEGETATION ON THE BLEAK SODDEN SLOPES OF 0LYNLIMON 0UMLUMON &AWR FT 4HERES A CAR PARK AT 2(9$ 9 "%.7#( IN THE HEART OF THE FOREST FROM WHERE WALKING PATHS FAN OUT THE MOST POPULAR BEING A SIX MILE ROUND TRIP FOLLOWING THE 2IVER 3EVERN UP THROUGH THE TREES PAST A WATERFALL AND OUT TO ITS SOURCE A SATURATED PEAT BOG IN SOME OF THE HARSHEST TERRAIN IN 7ALES 0LYNLIMON IS BLEAK AND DIFlCULT WALKING IF YOU VENTURE BEYOND THE FAIRLY WELL TRODDEN PATH TO THE 3EVERNS SOURCE 7ATER OOZES EVERYWHERE IN THIS MISTY WILDERNESS WITH FOUR OTHER RIVERS n THE 7YE INCLUDED n RISING ON ITS TUFTED SLOPES 4HE RIVERS (ENGWM ,LECHWEDD MAWR AND 2HEIDDOL HAVE BEEN DAMMED ON 0LYNLIMONS WESTERN SIDE TO FORM THE DESOLATE BLACK WATERED RESERVOIR OF .ANT Y -OCH REACHED BY ROAD VIA 0ONTERWYD SEE P 4HERE IS LITTLE SYMPATHETIC LANDSCAPING HERE THE LAKE LOOKING NOTHING MORE THAN THE mOODED VALLEY THAT IT IS 4HE HAMLET OF 34!9,)44,% 0ENFFORDDLAS n WHOSE %NGLISH NAME COMES FROM A VILLAGE BLACKSMITH WHO WAS SO QUICK AT SHOEING HORSES HIS SMITHY BECAME KNOWN AS 3TAY A LITTLE n IS ABOVE THE #LYWEDOG 2IVER AT THE NORTHERN END OF ,LYN #LYWEDOG *UST NORTH OF THE VILLAGE THE MOUNTAIN ROAD TO -ACHYNLLETH FORKS LEFT RUNNING PAST THE PLUNGING RAVINE OF THE 4WYMYN 2IVER TO THE NORTH /LD MINE WORKINGS HERALD THE APPROACH TO $9,)&% PRONOUNCED DUH LEVAH A LEAD MINING COMMUNITY OF ALMOST TWO THOUSAND PEOPLE IN THE MID NINE TEENTH CENTURY WITH A REPUTATION AS A LAWLESS LICENTIOUS GAMBLING PIT 4HE MINE CLOSED IN AND THE POPULATION HAS SINCE DWINDLED TO AROUND JUST TWENTY ALTHOUGH THANKFULLY THE VILLAGE PUB n THE MARVELLOUS 3TAR )NN n IS STILL THERE )TS A WONDERFUL UNPRETENTIOUS PLACE TO STAY EAT AND DRINK 4HERE ARE PLENTY OF WILD PLACES TO PITCH A TENT FOR THE NIGHT NEARBY TOO 'OOD WALKS FROM $YLIFE INCLUDE UP TO 0EN Y CROCBREN THE MINE POCKED SLOPE THAT RISES TO THE SOUTH OF THE VILLAGE AND WEST TO 'LASLYN OR hBLUE LAKEv AND THE
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.EWTOWNS TRAIN STATION IS ON THE SOUTHERN EDGE OF THE TOWN CENTRE AND A PATH HEADS STRAIGHT UP PAST THE UGLY 6ICTORIAN PARISH CHURCH OF 3T $AVID AND UP "ACK ,ANE TO THE BUS STATION AND TOURIST OFlCE %ASTERn3EPT DAILY AMnPM /CTn%ASTER -ONn3AT AMnPM NEWTIC POWYSGOVUK )F YOU HAVE TO STAY IN .EWTOWN YOUR BEST BETS ARE THE 0LAS #ANOL GUESTHOUSE BETWEEN THE STATION AND THE TOWN CENTRE AT .EW 2D AND 9ESTERDAYS WWWYESTERDAYSHOTELCOM BEHIND THE CLOCKTOWER IN 3EVERN 3QUARE WHICH ALSO OFFERS SUPER 7ELSH SPECIALITY FOOD IN ITS
PLEASANT RESTAURANT /THERWISE EATING REVOLVES AROUND NUMEROUS CHEAP DAYTIME CAFÏS n YOU CAN GET SOMETHING A LITTLE CLASSIER AT /RIEL SEE ABOVE 9OU WONT BE STUCK FOR PUBS n THERE ARE LOADS EVEN IF MOST ARE EMINENTLY AVOIDABLE 4HE ,ION )NN NEAR THE CLOCKTOWER IS GOOD FOR LIVE MUSIC LATE DRINKING AND DISCOS WHILE #OMMERCIAL 3TREETS "ELL (OTEL AND 3EVERN 3TREETS 3PORTSMAN HOST REGULAR LIVE FOLK 2" AND BLUES
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ACCOMPANYING LOFT BELIEVED TO HAVE BEEN BUILT FROM SECTIONS REMOVED FROM A PRIORY OVER THE BORDER IN #HERBURY -ONTGOMERY IS NEAR ONE OF THE BEST PRESERVED SECTIONS OF /FFAS $YKE WHICH THE LONG DISTANCE FOOTPATH SHADOWS EITHER SIDE OF THE " A MILE EAST OF THE TOWN $ITCHES ALMOST TWENTY FEET HIGH GIVE ONE OF THE BEST INDICATIONS OF THE DYKES ORIGINAL LOOK AND TO THE SOUTH OF THE MAIN ROAD THE %NGLANDn7ALES BORDER STILL EXACTLY SPLICES THE DYKE TWELVE HUNDRED YEARS AFTER IT WAS BUILT )F YOU WANT TO STAY HERE THE RAMBLING $RAGON (OTEL WWW DRAGONHOTELCOM BY THE TOWN HALL HAS AN INDOOR POOL AND IS DEPENDABLE IF
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RATHER POMPOUS "ETTER OPTIONS ARE "RYNWYLFA A BEAUTIFUL TOWNHOUSE AT "ISHOPS #ASTLE 3T OR ,ITTLE "ROMPTON &ARM WWWLITTLEBROMPTONFARMCOUK TWO MILES SOUTH OF TOWN AND HANDY FOR THE /FFAS $YKE PATH 9OU CAN ALSO CAMP THERE a PER PERSON &OR FOOD AND DRINK HEAD FOR THE #HECKERS PUB ON "ROAD 3TREET LIVELIER AND YOUNGER THAN THE $RAGON
8FMTIQPPM 4HREE MILES FROM THE %NGLISH BORDER AND lVE MILES NORTH OF "ERRIEW EASTERN -ONTGOMERYSHIRES CHIEF TOWN OF 7%,3(0//, 9 4RALLWNG WAS FORMERLY KNOWN AS JUST 0OOL ITS PRElX ADDED IN TO DISTINGUISH IT FROM THE %NGLISH SEASIDE TOWN OF 0OOLE IN $ORSET 4HE TOWNS BYPASS HAS CLEARED ITS STREETS OF EXCESSIVE TRAFlC AND LEFT A NUMBER OF WELL PROPORTIONED ROADS CROWNED WITH SOME 4UDOR AND MANY GOOD 'EORGIAN AND 6ICTORIAN BUILDINGS "UT ITS FOR SUMPTUOUS 0OWIS #ASTLE ONE OF THE GREATEST 7ELSH FORTRESSES THAT 7ELSHPOOL IS ON MOST PEOPLES AGENDA
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4HREE MILES NORTHWEST OF -ONTGOMERY THE NEAT VILLAGE OF "%22)%7 !BER RHIW IS MORE REDOLENT OF THE BLACK AND WHITE SETTLEMENTS OVER THE %NGLISH BORDER THAN ANYWHERE IN 7ALES WITH ITS 4UDOR HOUSES GROUPED PRETTILY AROUND A SMALL CHURCH THE SHALLOW WATERS OF THE 2HIW 2IVER AND THE POSH HALF TIMBERED ,ION (OTEL WHICH SERVES EXCELLENT HOME COOKED MEALS *UST OVER THE RIVER BRIDGE THE DIVERTING !NDREW ,OGAN -USEUM OF 3CULP TURE %ASTER WEEKEND NOONnPM -AYn/CT 7EDn3UN NOONnPM .OVn#HRIST MAS 3AT 3UN NOONnPM WWWANDREWLOGANCOM a SEEMS AN IMPROBABLY CAMP ADDITION TO THE TIDY "ERRIEW LANDSCAPE )N THE S "RITISH SCULPTOR ,OGAN INAUGURATED THE GREAT DRAG AND GRUNGE BALL KNOWN AS THE !LTERNATIVE -ISS 7ORLD #ONTEST LAUNCHPAD OF THE LATE $IVINES CAREER ! h$IVINE 3HRINEv AND SOME DAZZLING OUTlTS FROM THE CONTESTS FORM A LARGE CHUNK OF THE EXHIBITS AT THE MUSEUM SHARING SPACE WITH ,OGANS OVERSIZED HORTICULTURAL SCULPTURES GAUDY MODEL GODDESSES AND A TWELVE FOOT HIGH ENCRUSTED GLASS hCOSMIC EGGv ! MILE FURTHER DOWN THE LANE FROM THE MUSEUM WHERE IT MEETS THE MAIN ! YOULL lND 'LANSEVERN (ALL 'ARDENS -AYn3EPT 4HURSn3AT BANK HOLIDAYS NOONnPM a A BEAUTIFULLY COOL COLLECTION OF PLANTS TREES AND FOLLIES GATHERED AROUND A GORGEOUS 'EORGIAN MANSION
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!RRIVING AT 7ELSHPOOLS MODERN TRAIN STATION GIVES A FALSE SENSE OF WHAT TO EXPECT FROM THE TOWN WHICH IS MUCH MORE ATTRACTIVE THAN THE MODERN MESS AROUND THE RAIL LINES AND THE KITSCH STORES IN THE OLD STATION WOULD LEAD YOU TO BELIEVE 4WO HUNDRED YARDS ALONG 3EVERN 3TREET A HUMPBACK BRIDGE OVER THE MUCH RESTORED -ONTGOMERY #ANAL HIDES THE CANAL WHARF AND A WHARFSIDE WAREHOUSE THAT HAS BEEN CAREFULLY RESTORED AS THE 0OWYSLAND -USEUM ALL YEAR -ON 4UES 4HURS &RI AMnPM nPM -AYn3EPT ALSO 3AT 3UN AMnPM nPM /CTn!PRIL ALSO 3AT AMnPM a AN IMPRESSIVELY WIDE COLLECTION LOOKING AT THE HISTORY OF THE LOCAL AREA /F PARTICULAR INTEREST ARE !NDREW ,OGANS BLUE SPANGLY OUTSIZED HANDBAG HERALDING THE ENTRANCE THE DISPLAYS SHOWING ARCHEOLOGICAL lNDS FROM A LOCAL NEOLITHIC TIMBER CIRCLE 3ARN Y BRYN CALED AND 2OMAN REMAINS FROM THE NOW OBLITERATED #ISTERCIAN ABBEY OF 3TRATA -ARCELLA -ORE RECENT EXHIBITS SHOW THE CHANGING PATTERNS OF DOMESTIC AND CIVIC LIFE AS WELL AS SOME SURPRISES n MOST NOTABLY AN INTRICATE MODEL OF A GUILLOTINE CARVED FROM MUTTON BONES LEFT BEHIND BY PRISONERS OF WAR FROM THE .APEOLONIC 7ARS OF THE EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY
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)N A LAND OF RUINED CASTLES THE SHEER SCALE AND BEAUTY OF 0OWIS #ASTLE !PRILn/CT -ON 4HURSn3UN CASTLE nPM GARDENS AMnPM *ULYn!UG 4UESn3UN SAME TIMES CASTLE a GARDENS AND MUSEUM ONLY a .4 A MILE FROM 7ELSHPOOL UP 0ARK ,ANE IS QUITE STAGGERING /N THE SITE OF AN EARLIER .ORMAN FORT THE CASTLE WAS STARTED IN THE REIGN OF %DWARD ) BY THE 'WENWYNWYN FAMILY TO QUALIFY FOR THE SITE AND THE BARONY OF $E LA 0OLE THEY HAD TO RENOUNCE ALL CLAIMS TO 7ELSH PRINCEDOM )N 3IR %DWARD (ERBERT BOUGHT THE CASTLE AND BEGAN TO TRANSFORM IT INTO THE %LIZABETHAN PALACE WE SEE TODAY )NSIDE THE #LIVE -USEUM n NAMED AFTER %DWARD #LIVE SON OF #LIVE OF )NDIA WHO MARRIED INTO THE FAMILY IN n FORMS A LIVELY ACCOUNT OF THE "RITISH IN )NDIA THROUGH DIARIES NOTES LETTERS PAINTINGS TAPESTRIES WEAPONS AND JEWELS ALTHOUGH IT IS THE SUMPTUOUS PERIOD ROOMS THAT IMPRESS MOST FROM THE VAST AND KITSCH FRESCOES BY ,ANSCROON ABOVE THE BALUSTRADED STAIRCASE TO THE MAHOGANY BED BRASS AND ENAMEL TOILETS AND DECORATIVE WALL HANGINGS OF THE STATE BEDROOM 4HE ELEGANT ,ONG 'ALLERY HAS A RICH SIXTEENTH CENTURY PLASTERWORK CEILING OVERLOOKING WINSOME BUSTS AND MARBLE STATUETTES OF THE FOUR ELEMENTS PLACED IN BETWEEN THE GLOWERING FAMILY PORTRAITS $ESIGNED BY 7ELSH ARCHITECT 7ILLIAM 7INDE THE GARDENS ARE SPECTACULAR $ROPPING DOWN FROM THE CASTLE IN FOUR HUGE STEPPED TERRACES THE DESIGN HAS BARELY CHANGED SINCE THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY WITH A CHARMINGLY PRECISE ORANG ERY AND TOPIARY THAT LOOKS AS IF IT IS SHAVED DAILY 3UMMERTIME OUTDOOR CONCERTS FREQUENTLY WITH lREWORK lNALES TAKE PLACE IN THE GARDENS
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2IGHT AT THE CENTRE OF TOWN ARE THE CROSSROADS WHERE THE 'EORGIAN 2OYAL /AK (OTEL ACTS AS A lRM REMINDER OF THE JUNCTIONS IMPORTANCE ON THE OLD COACHING ROUTE "ROAD 3TREET IS THE MOST ARCHITECTURALLY INTERESTING OF THE STREETS LEADING OFF FROM HERE WITH THE PONDEROUS 6ICTORIAN TOWN HALL AND ITS DOMINATING CLOCKTOWER OVERLOOKING SOME lNE 4UDOR AND *ACO BEAN TOWNHOUSES /N .EW 3TREET BEHIND THE .AT7EST BANK YOU CAN WANDER AROUND AN EARLY EIGHTEENTH CENTURY CIRCULAR COCKPIT BANK HOURS FREE "ROAD 3TREET CHANGES NAME lVE TIMES AS IT RISES UP THE HILL TOWARDS THE TINY 2AVEN 3QUARE TERMINUS STATION OF THE 7ELSHPOOL ,LANFAIR 2AILWAY HALF A MILE BEYOND THE TOWN HALL 4HE EIGHT MILE NARROW GAUGE LINE !PRIL TO LATE -AY 3EPTn/CT WEEKENDS ONLY %ASTER LATE -AY TO !UG DAILY GENERALLY n TRAINS A DAY a RETURN WAS OPEN TO PASSENGERS FOR LESS THAN THIRTY YEARS CLOSING IN n THESE DAYS SCALED DOWN ENGINES ONCE MORE CHUFF ALONG THE APPROPRIATELY MODEST VALLEYS OF THE 3YLFAEN "ROOK AND "ANWY 2IVER TO THE QUIET VILLAGE OF ,,!.&!)2 #!%2%).)/. A GOOD DAYTIME BASE FOR WALKS AND PUB FOOD AT THE 'OAT (OTEL 4HE POST OFlCE OPPOSITE THE CHURCH STOCKS FREE LEAmETS OF SOME GOOD LOCAL CIRCULAR WALKS
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7ELSHPOOLS FOUR MAIN STREETS ARE HOME TO MOST OF THE TOWNS EATING AND DRINKING ESTABLISHMENTS 4HE BEST FOOD IN TOWN IS AT THE 2OYAL /AK PUB SEE ABOVE WHICH HAS MANAGED TO RETAIN ITS OLDE WORLDE GRANDIOSITY WHILE INCLUD ING A CONTEMPORARY ALL DAY CAFÏ BAR #HEAP AND lLLING BREAKFASTS LUNCHES AND TEAS ARE SERVED IN THE "UTTERY OPPOSITE THE TOWN HALL ON THE (IGH 3TREET -ANY OF THE TOWNS PUBS DO LUNCHTIME FOOD WITH SOME NOTABLY THE 4ALBOT IN THE (IGH 3TREET AND THE 2AVEN UP BY THE NARROW GAUGE TRAIN STATION SERVING DECENT EVENING MEALS AS WELL
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4HE HILLS AND PLAINS OF NORTHERN -ONTGOMERYSHIRE CONCEAL A MAZE OF DESERTED LANES AND FARM OUTPOSTS ALONG THE CONTOURS THAT SWELL UP TOWARDS THE NORTH AND THE FOOTHILLS OF $ENBIGHSHIRES "ERWYN -OUNTAINS 4HE ONLY REAL SETTLEMENT OF ANY SIZE IS ,,!.&9,,). A HANDSOME AND FRIENDLY HILLSIDE TOWN TEN MILES NORTHWEST OF 7ELSHPOOL IN THE VALLEY OF THE 2IVER #AIN 4HE (IGH 3TREET IS A BUSY CENTRE OF BRIGHT PUBS CAFÏS SHOPS AND A WEEKLY 4HURSDAY MARKET 4HE STRIKING RED BRICK PARISH CHURCH IS A RARE EXAMPLE OF EIGHTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH BUILDING IN 7ALES ,LANFYLLIN IS SHORT ON PLACES TO STAY WITH ONLY AN ANCIENT AND SOMEWHAT OVER PRICED COACHING INN THE #AIN 6ALLEY (OTEL ON THE (IGH 3TREET
/N THE WHOLE YOURE BETTER OFF IN ,LANRHAEADR YM MOCHNANT SEE BELOW OR SOME lVE MILES SOUTHWEST AT THE TRANQUIL IVY DRAPED SEVENTEENTH CENTURY #YlE &ARM IN A BEAUTIFUL GARDEN SETTING JUST SOUTH OF THE TINY VILLAGE OF ,LANlHANGEL YNG .GWYNFA 4HERES A lNE RESTAURANT ON THE ,LANFYLLIN (IGH 3TREET IN THE SHAPE OF 3EEDS WITH A THREE COURSE SET DINNER MENU INCLUDING GOOD VEGETARIAN OPTIONS FOR a !LTERNATIVELY THERES CHEAP EATING AT %AGLES BAR ON THE (IGH 3TREET AND THE 4$ #OFl CAFÏ ON THE MAIN SQUARE AND DECENT SNACKS IN THE BAR OF THE #AIN 6ALLEY (OTEL 5IF5BOBUBOE3IBFBESWBMMFZT
0ARALLEL TO THE VALLEY OF THE 2IVER #AIN THREE OR FOUR MILES TO THE NORTH ARE THE LUSCIOUS VALLEYS OF THE !FON 4ANAT AND ITS TRIBUTARY THE 2HAEADR ! SPARSELY POPULATED LITTLE CHANGED BACKWATER THIS IS A BEGUILING AREA SET AGAINST THE LOOM ING "ERWYN -OUNTAINS &OR A PLACE SO NEAR THE %NGLISH BORDER ,,!.2(!%!$2 9- -/#(.!.4 IS SURPRISINGLY 7ELSH 3IX MILES NORTH OF ,LANFYLLIN THIS SMALL LOW ROOFED VILLAGE IS BEST REMEMBERED AS THE SERVING PARISH OF "ISHOP 7ILLIAM -ORGAN WHO TRANSLATED THE "IBLE INTO 7ELSH IN SEE P AN ACT WHICH ENSURED THE SURVIVAL OF THE OLD TONGUE 4HE VILLAGE HAS THREE GREAT PUBS n THE 4HREE 4UNS (AND )NN AND 7YNNSTAY !RMS n AND EXCELLENT VALUE ""S NEXT TO THE POST OFlCE ON THE CENTRAL SQUARE IS 0OWYS (OUSE WWW LLANRHAEADRYMCOUK ALTERNATIVELY TRY THE PLUSHER "RON (EULOG ON 7ATERFALL 3TREET WWWKRAINESENTANET ,LANRHAEADR LIES AT THE FOOT OF THE WILD WALKING COUNTRY OF THE SOUTHERN "ERWYN -OUNTAINS &ROM THE MIDDLE OF THE VILLAGE 7ATERFALL 3TREET BECOMES A LANE THAT COURSES NORTHWEST FOR FOUR MILES TO A DEAD END AT THE ENCHANTING 0ISTYLL 2HAEADR 7ALES HIGHEST WATERFALL AT FT 4HE RIVER TUMBLES DOWN THE CRAGS IN TWO STAGES mOWING UNDER A NATURAL STONE ARCH KNOWN AS THE &AIRY "RIDGE $ONT MISS OUT ON WALKING TO THE TOP OF THE FALL FOR VERTIGINOUS VIEWS DOWN THE VALLEY AND PATHS UP INTO THE MOODY "ERWYNS 0ISTYLL 2HAEADR IS A PLACE RICH IN LEGEND WHICH YOU CAN GEN UP ON IN THE CUTE RIVERSIDE 4AN Y 0ISTYLL LICENSED CAFÏ 4HE OWNERS ALSO OFFER "" AND A LOVELY CAMPSITE a PER PERSON IN THE BACK lELD AND OPERATE VARIOUS RETREATS AND SPIRITUALLY INCLINED GROUPS 4HE " RUNS EAST FROM ,LANRHAEADR ALONG THE 4ANAT 6ALLEY AND THROUGH THE VILLAGE OF ,,!.'%$79. ! MILE OR SO AFTER THE VILLAGE FEW VISITORS MAKE IT UP ONE OF THE LEFT TURNS LEADING TO 39#!24( ONLY A MILE FROM THE %NGLISH BORDER BUT ONE OF THE MOST 7ELSH OF ALL SHRINES A GRASS MOUND MARKS THE SITE OF /WAIN 'LYND"RS ANCESTRAL COURT REPUTEDLY A PALACE OF NINE GRAND HALLS "ARD )OLO 'OCH IMMORTALIZED THIS 7ELSH 3HANGRI LA AS A PLACE OF hNO WANT NO HUNGER NO SHAME .O ONE IS EVER THIRSTY AT 3YCARTHv
! MONUMENT TO THE SELF AGGRANDIZEMENT OF THE 6ICTORIAN AGE THE FOUR MILE LONG ,AKE 6YRNWY ,LYN %FYRNWY COMBINES ITS FUNCTIONAL ROLE AS A WATER SUPPLY FOR ,IVERPOOL WITH A TOUCH OF ARCHITECTURAL GENIUS IN THE SHAPE OF THE HUGE NINETEENTH CENTURY DAM AT ITS SOUTHERN END AND THE $ISNEYESQUE TURRETED STRAINING TOWER WHICH EDGES OUT INTO THE ICY WATERS )TS A MAGNIlCENT SPOT AND A POPULAR CENTRE FOR WALKING AND BIRD WATCHING ! COMMEMORATIVE STONE AT THE EASTERN END OF THE DAM ARROGANTLY CELEBRATES hTAKING AND IMPOUNDING THE WATERS OF THE 2IVERS 6YRNWY -ARCHNANT AND #OWNYv WHICH mOODED A VILLAGE OF FOUR HUNDRED INHABITANTS IN THE PROCESS #ONSTRUCTED DURING THE S 6YRNWY WAS THE lRST OF THE MASSIVE RESER VOIRS OF MID 7ALES 4HE VILLAGE OF ,LANWDDYN WAS mATTENED AND REBUILT AT THE EASTERN END ITS PEOPLE RECEIVING COMPENSATION OF JUST a FOR THE LOSS OF THEIR HOMES 4HE STORY IS TOLD SOMEWHAT APOLOGETICALLY IN THE 6YRNWY 6ISI TOR #ENTRE !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn-ARCH 3AT 3UN ONLY FREE WHICH IS LOCATED ON THE WESTERN SIDE OF THE DAM AND COEXISTS WITH AN 230" 6ISITOR #ENTRE SAME HOURS 230" STAFF HERE ARE IN CHARGE OF A SMALL HIDE ACROSS THE ROAD WHERE YOU CAN SIT AND WATCH FOREST BIRDS AND CHEEKY SQUIRRELS ATTACKING THE FEEDERS OUTSIDE THE WINDOWS ! FEW YARDS DOWN THE ROAD THERES A TOURIST OFlCE %ASTERn/CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn%ASTER DAILY EXCEPT 7ED AMnPM AND !RTISANS #OFFEE 3HOP FROM WHERE YOU CAN RENT BIKES 4HE "ETHANIA !DVENTURE #ENTRE IN THE BOATHOUSE NEAR THE DAM ALSO RENTS BIKES
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*UST TO THE EAST OF 3YCARTH THE %NGLISHn7ELSH BORDER TIGHTLY ENCIRCLES THE FOOT LIMESTONE CRAG OF ,LANYMYNECH 2OCKS NOW A NATURE RESERVE BEFORE CUTTING DOWN TO RUN RIGHT THROUGH THE MIDDLE OF THE VILLAGE OF ,,!.9 -9.%#( )NDEED THE DIVIDE RUNS SLAP THROUGH THE VILLAGES RUNDOWN ,ION (OTEL n NOT SO LONG AGO THANKS TO THE NOW DEAD 7ELSH BAN ON LICENSING ON THE 3ABBATH HALF THE PUB HAD TO REMAIN hDRYv ON 3UNDAY WHILE THE OTHER %NGLISH HALF DOWNED BEER WITH GUSTO 4HE " HUGS THE RIVER AS FAR AS SOPORIlC LITTLE ,,!.'9./' WHERE IT HEADS NORTH INTO THE "ERWYN -OUNTAINS AND $ENBIGHSHIRE #OWERING UNDER THE ROCKY SCREES OF #RAIG 2HIWARTH THE VILLAGE IS A FORMER MINING CENTRE AS EVIDENCED IN THE SCARS ON THE HILLSIDES AROUND ! LANE BY THE BRIDGE LEADS TO A STUNNING FOUR MILE HIKE OVER THE TOP OF 9 #LOGYDD AND DOWN TO THE ELlN CHARMS OF 0ISTYLL 2HAEADR SEE ABOVE ,ESS STRENUOUSLY YOU CAN WALK OR DRIVE TWO MILES FURTHER UP THE 4ANAT 6ALLEY TO THE HAMLET OF 0%..!.4 -%,!.'%,, SITTING LOW IN A QUIET VALLEY OF SHEER SIDES AND SPARKLING BROOKS THE SITE OF ONE OF 7ALES MOST ENDURING SITES OF PILGRIMAGE ,EGEND HAS IT THAT THE EIGHTH CENTURY SAINT -ELANGELL WAS PRAYING IN THE VALLEY WHEN A HARE BEING CHASED BY A HUNT PACK LED BY 0RINCE "ROCHWEL TOOK REFUGE IN HER SKIRTS 4HE HOUNDS DREW TO A SUDDEN STOP BEFORE HER AND mED HOWLING 4HE PRINCE DREW HIS HORN TO HIS LIPS TO CALL THEM ONLY TO lND HIMSELF UNABLE TO REMOVE IT 4HE PRINCE WAS SO MOVED BY -ELANGELLS GENTLE HUMANITY THAT HE GRANTED HER THE VALLEY IN WHICH SHE BUILT A RELIGIOUS COMMUNITY 4HE GORGEOUS LITTLE CHURCH DAILY -AYn/CT AMnPM .OVn!PRIL AMnPM THAT SITS HERE TODAY DATES FROM THE EIGHTH CENTURY ALTHOUGH THE SITE WAS ONE OF WORSHIP AND SPIRITUAL SIGNIlCANCE WAY BEFORE )NSIDE A TWELFTH CENTURY SHRINE THE OLDEST KNOWN IN "RITAIN AND SUPPOSED EFlGY OF 3T -ELANGELL LIE BENEATH AN EXQUISITE BARREL ROOF -ELANGELLS GRAVE IS IN THE SEMICIRCULAR CELL Y BEDD AT THE BACK OF THE CHURCH )NTACT .ORMAN FEATURES INCLUDE A WINDOW IN THE MAIN CHURCH THE SOUTH DOOR PORCH AND THE FONT
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OFFERS RIVER RAFTING AND SAILING TRIPS AND DOLES OUT LEAmETS DETAILING MODEST WALKS THROUGH THE WOODS AROUND ,LANWDDYN ,AKE 6YRNWYS IMMEDIATE SURROUNDINGS BOAST SOME OF THE BEST ACCOMMO DATION IN THE REGION NOTABLY THE GRAND ,AKE 6YRNWY (OTEL WWWLAKEVYRNWYCOM OVERLOOKING THE WATERS ABOVE THE SOUTHEASTERN SHORE )TS PRICEY AND A BIT FRAYED AROUND THE EDGES BUT DINNERS ARE WORTH WHILE "" DEALS ARE A FEW POUNDS MORE THAN THE ROOM RATE AND THE FULL AFTERNOON TEA SERVED IN A CHINTZY LOUNGE OVERLOOKING THE LAKE IS PERFECT IF YOU JUST WANT TO HAVE A LOOK AROUND 4HERES A GREAT "" JUST BEYOND THE VISITOR CENTRE AT 4HE /AKS WWWVYRNWYACCOMMODATION COUK AND DAYTIME SNACKS AND FULL EVENING MEALS ARE AVAILABLE AT ,AKE 6IEW ON THE LAKESIDE ROAD BEYOND THE ,AKE 6YRNWY (OTEL )F YOURE CAMPING THERE ARE lVE TENT PITCHES AT THE RATHER SCRUFFY &RONHEULOG a PER PERSON AT THE TOP OF THE HAIRPIN BENDS ON THE ROAD TO ,LANFYLLIN OR DOWN THE HILL IN ,LANWDDYN ITSELF AT THE MORE INFORMAL "RYN &EDWEN a PER PERSON
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