The Russians in Central Asia : their occupation of the Kirghiz steppe and the line of the Syr-Daria : their political relations with Khiva, Bokhara, and Kokan : also descriptions of Chinese Turkestan and Dzungaria

ASIA

(Jfdcttell Httiuetatti} iltltara,

Ilibrarg

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CHARLES WILLIAM WASON COLLECTION CHINA AND THE CHINESE

THE GIFT OF

CHARLES WILLIAM WASON CLASS OF 1876 1918

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:

THE RUSSIANS IN CENTRAL ASIA: THEIR OCCUPATION OF

THE KIRGHIZ STEPPE AND

THE LINE OF THE SYR-DARIA

:

THEIR POLITICAL EBLATI0N8 WITH

KHIVA, BOKHARA, AND

KOKAN

ALSO DESCRIPTIONS OF

CHINESE TURKESTAN AND DZUNGARIA.

BY

CAPT.

VALIKHANOF, M. VBNIUKOF,

AND OTHER EUSSIAN TRAVELLERS.

ffiranslattU

from

tfje

Eusstan

BY JOHN AND ROBERT MICHELL.

LONDON: EDWARD STANFORD,

6

1865.

CHARING CROSS,

M

%b\%

PREFACE.

The

valuable

contributions to the geography and

political history of Central

Asia printed from time to

time at St. Petersburg are almost entirely

lost to this

country^ owing to their being published in the Russian

language. lately

The

great interest which Central Asia has

attracted, in

events in the

consequence

of

recent

political

Khanat of Kokan, and the comparative

ignorance which has prevailed in England respecting the true position of Russia in those distant regions,

have induced us to make a collection of the most important of the Russian materials relating to the '

subject,

and to present them to the public in an

English form.

The

several chapters

volume, on their original appearance at

composing

this

St. Petersburg,

excited considerable interest, and their several authors

are well-known Russian travellers and geographers,

have made Central Asia their special study.

who

PREFACE.

IV

Among tral

the accounts of journeys and travels in Cen-

Asia here presented to the reader, those of Captain

Valikhanof in Dzungaria and Eastern Turkestan occupy a prominent position.

Since the days of

Marco Polo

and the Jesuit Goez, no European, with the exception of A. Schlagintweit, has, to our knowledge, penetrated into those countries.

The

and jealousy of Europeans

fear

and the religious fanaticism of the people made that country quite inaccessible to modern explorers, and the mournful

Kashgar

is

fate

the

of

enterprising traveller

at

an illustration of the danger with which

any attempt

to

reach

it

is

The

beset.

travels

of

Valikhanof through Dzungaria and Chinese Turkestan were performed under singularly favourable circum-

Although an

stances.

and a

man

of good

Russian service

officer in the

education, he

is

the son of a

Kirghiz Sultari and a native of the Steppes.

He

is

consequently well acquainted with the language and

customs of the people of Central Asia, and could go

amongst them without of being

exciting

connected with Russia.

the least suspicion

He

reaching Kashgar in the train of a

succeeded in

Kokan

caravan,

under the assumed character of a Marghilan merchant. His description of Kashgar, and of the

political state of

Eastern Turkestan, will be acknowledged as an im-

PUEl'ACE.

portant addition to the scanty information

we

as yet

possess concerning that country.

The

chapters descriptive of the political relations of

Russia with the different Khanats, and of the manner in which the power of Russia has been consolidated in

the Kirghiz Steppe, and on the line of the Syr-Daria or Jaxartes, will,

it is

hoped, enable the English public to

form a correct idea of the present attitude of Russia in Central Asia; and in presenting to our readers these

Russian narratives and descriptions, we cannot omit to point out that, as the of science,

it

work of geographers and men

has been executed with impartiality and

without any political object.

The recent capture of some Kokan towns and tresses, title

for-

and the formation of a new province with the

of Turkestan, have increased the apprehensions

that have been entertained

by a portion of the English

public of hostile intentions against British India.

The

junction of the line of the Syr-Daria with that of

Eastern Siberia has

certainly

added a considerable

piece of territory to the frontier of Russia, on which a distinct military frontier

may now be drawn from

Gorbitza mountains on the

Amur

the Jaxartes in the Sea of Aral.

was

effected

River to the

the

mouth of

Before that junction

by the capture of Turkestan and Chem-

PREKACE.

VI

kent, the military colonies on the Syr-Daria had no

communication with the garrison of Fort Vernoe, the southernmost point on the frontier of Eastern Siberia,

The

except by the circuitous route of Orenburg.

obligation which Russia has incurred of protecting the

pastoral Kirghizes

under her allegiance against the

marauding expeditions of the subjects of the Khan of

Kokan, frequently necessitates measures of and chastisement. territory,

retaliation

It was, therefore, not the gain in

but the necessity of establishing a continuity

of communication,

and a consolidation of power with

a view to tranquil possession, that

prompted the recent

encroachments of Russia on the dominions of

the

Khan. There as

is

no doubt that Bokhara and Khiva,

Kokan, are

entirely at the

as well

mercy of Russia, and

will

probably, in the course of time, become subject to it;

but a perusal of this book will afford some evidence of the present uselessness of such conquests to an

Empire

already too large and unwieldy, thinly peopled at centre,

and just entering upon a long and perhaps

troublesome process of political reorganisation. signs, however,

on British India

entertained with a force

army

its

at Bokhara.

may

quite as well be

on the Caspian

The same

De-

as with

an

distance would have to

VU

PREFACE.

be

by the

passed

invading

force

before

reaching

Afghanistan, and the same dangers would have to be

encountered by

from a British army rapidly moved

it

on by railways and

riversj

and famished with abundant

supplies.

On the

other hand; the security and development of

the Russian trade with Central Asia must eventually

Bokhara

benefit England.

with cotton, dried their

fruits^

value from

at present supplies B,ussia

and other goods, and imports

Russia, half in hardware,

wooden

boxes, and coarse prints, and half in specie. specie

is all

That

that the Central Asiatics have to offer in

return for English manufactured goods, which they

highly esteem, but which they cannot buy with their

As

inferior products.

prosperity,

of tranquillity, becomes

coming in the wake

more general

in the plains of

Turkestan, so will the demand for English manufac-

means of purchasing them, now almost

tures and the absent,

from

become

available.

all political

of Russian

men

the world so

In the meanwhile, and apart

considerations, the continued

efiforts

of science to throw light on a region of

little

known and

so highly interesting,

cannot but meet with the sympathy of the English public,

and merit

its

warm

The engravings which

approval.

illustrate the

book are from

PREFACE.

Vlll

photographs taken on the spot during General Ignatief s last

mission to Khiva and Bokhara, and the accom-

panying

map

has been carefully compiled from the

most recent Russian sources; while tion

we

are indebted to the late

Mr.

for the introduc-

Hume

Greenfield,

formerly Assistant Secretary to the Royal Geographical Society,

whose valuable assistance in editing the work

and conducting

it

through the press we cannot

suffi-

ciently acknowledge.

J.

iQth March, 1865.

AND R. MiCHELL.

—

CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE

I.

Introduction.

,

PAGE.

— Russian Invasion—TheUstKhiva— Khanat Bokhara— Khanat of

Persian and Russian acquisitions

Urt

— Khanat — Chinese Turkestan. of

of

Kokan

1

CHAPTER

IT.

Abridged Nwrrative. of a Juv/rney Particulars relating to the

—22

to

KMva,

Khanat during

with Historical the

Government

— 1860, ly K. Kiihlewein.

of Seid-Mohammed Khan, 1856

—Entry Kungrad—Devastations —Tedious Passage by Water to Khiva Unsettled state of the Country— Recent History of Khiva —High of the Khan of Khiva — Tribes ing the Khanat of Khiva — Turkmen Insurrections Metallic Currency of Khiva — Astronomical position of

Passage of A.ibugir Lake

into

by the Turkmen

inhabit-

Officers

Khiva.

.

.

.

.

.

.

23—45

—

CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE

III.

General View of Bzungaria, ly Captain Valikhanof. PAGE.

—Brutal Amusements of the European Travellers — Oppresllulers— the Chinese — Explorations of M. Semenof— Fauna Dzungaria— ExtirDzuugaria— Ornithology and Elora pation a whole race of Deer — Propagation and Suppres-

I'orlorn condition of Central Asia

Sufferings, &o., of

sions of

of

of

of

sion of Christianity

—Ethnology of Central Asiatic B^ces

UigurLanguage unknown in Europe^Documentary History 4(3—70 ofKashgar. .

CHAPTEE

.

IV.

Travels in Dzungaria, hy Captain ValikJianof. Visit

—Passage the River Hi— Costume —Interior of a Kirghiz Dwelling Kirghizes — A Eeast — Habits and Habits between the Customs the Kirghizes — Primitive Bursuk — Speculations to Sexes — Predatory Habits from the Sultan

(if

of

a Kirghiz Spearman of

Filthy

tlie

relations

of

of

as

among

the Origin of the Kirghizes —Traditions hizes

— Original Country of

an Ethnographic Inquiry

the Kirghizes

—Evidence

the Kirg-

— Importance

of

of Genealogical Tra-

— Heroic Traditions of the Kirghizes —Epic Poems among the Kirghizes — Distribution of the Dikokamenni — Serious misunderstanding — Affray — Encounter ditions

current

....

with the Buruts.

CHAPTEE On

V. Eastern Towns

the Condition of Alty-shahr, or the Six

of

the Chinese Province of

71—108

Nan-lu

Hohhard) in

{Little

1858—1859. Physical Syrt

features

of

— Caravan

the Desert of Gobi

Eoads

of

System of Eastern Turkestan modating Carav;ms

— Route

Ccua\an Routes to Yarkcud

— Table

Land

Eastern Turkestan

— Arrangements

for

from Pckin to Aksu

—Thcrmomcti ica

of

— Eiver

accom-

—Various

Observations

——

CONTENTS.

XI PAGE.

in

Kasligar— Singular dread of Thunder Storms— Geniality

—

—

Khotan Gold-washing at Kai^a Mineral Wealth and Gold Mines of Kokan Vegetation on the TianShan Range ^Vegetation of Little Bokhara Decline of

luid Salubrity of

—

—

Agriculture

in Little

Bokhara

—

—

— Animals

indigenous to

Bokhara Grain found in Kokan and Turkestan Domestic Animals of Little Bokhara—Exterior Aspect of a Little Bokharian Town Description of the City of Little

—

Kashgar

— Municipal Buildings

Mussulman

of Kashgar

near Kashgar

Saints

shahr and Yarkend Yarkend Statistics

—

— Settlements of

Khotan

Turfan District described.

.

and Trade .

of

of Yany-

in the Province

District .

— Tombs

—Description

of

—Ush109—161

CHAPTEE VL

— Historical Heview. Buddhism — Islamism introduced

Alty-shahr Eariy Introduction of

Eastern Turkestan

— Rise

in

Power of the Hodjas Wars of the Rival Pactions

of the

Party Turkestan — — History of the Movement Independence — Outbreak of the Revolution — Subjugation of Dzungaria by the Chinese — Preparation Battle by both Sides — Defeat, by Treachery, of the Allied Porces —PataUy temper of Hodja-Djagan — Plight of Djagan-Hodja— Chinese Policy Colonisation— Apprehensions excited by the Chinese Confederacy against Chinese Extension— Appearance of Politics in

for

for

facile

of

Russia iu Central Asia —Merciless Severities of the Chinese

— Ineffectual Risings of the Native Pactions—Insurrection of Djengir-Hodja in 1S22 —Important Successes of DjengirHodja^— Entry of Djengir into Kashgar — Conciliatory Policy of the Hodja

— Prohibition

—Capture

and Execution of Djengir

by the Chinese of Trade with Kokan Rebellion of Madali-Khan— Withdrawal from Kashgar of

Med-Yusuf— Treaty between China and Kokan—Recent Disturbances in Kokan Excesses of the Seven Hodjas

—

Sufferings of the Inhabitants of surprises

Kashgar

—Rapid

Kashgar

—Vali-Khan-lMiria

Spread of the Insurrection

—

Xn

CONTENTS. PAGE.

— Fiendish Murders

Ferocious Cruelty of Vali-Klian-Tiiria

committed by

tlie

Hodja

— Universal

pointments

— Jealousy

of

the Official Ap-

of Discontent

Feelings

Scenes of Bloodshed re-enaoted in Kashgar

from the Kokanians to the Chinese.

CHAPTEE Trans-lli and

Ghu

Districts, hy

arise

—Advances 162

.

— 238

VII.

M.

Yeniukof.

Alniaty, or

Vernoe. Favourable Agricultural Conditions of Vernoe

—Instances

Sultan All

of

— Interview with

AU's Astuteness

—

—Progress

of

Distribution of the among the Kirghiz Great Horde Zoology of the Steppe^Wild Sports of

Civilization

the Kirghiz

— —Effects

of the

of the Bite

Passage of the Alatau Chain

— Fate

of

a

Phalangium Robber of the

—In—Animal Life the Valley the Chu —The Barren Desert Betpak-dala Lakes Karakul and the Boroldai Chain — Account the Steppe

— Marvellous

Recovery from severe Wounds

tense Dryness of the Air in the Steppe of

in

of

of

Dikokamenni Horde

— Kirghiz Legends of

their Origin as

— Ancestry of the Kara-Kirghiz Horde —DistribuDikokamenni Kirghiz — Origin of the Name Kara-Kirghiz — Agriculture and the Chase — State of Trade — Organised Marauding of the Dikokamenni— Gross Ignorance of the Hordes — Veneration the Departed — Imagi239 — 291 native Strain of Improvisatori. a Nation

tion of the

for

their

CHAPTEE

VIII.

History of the Establishment or Russian Rule on the Sea OF Akal and on the River Syk-Dama (Jaxaktes) ekom 1847 TO 1862,

PART

I.

General Eevieiv of the Orenburg Region and its Future Importance First Appehrance of the Russians in these

—

—

CONTENTS.

Parts

Xiii

— The

PAGE.

—

Sea of Aral and the Syr-Baria Estahlishment of Russian Rule in the Steppe since ISSS—Urection

of Forts

Aral

the Steppe

in

and on

— The Aral Flotilla.

the Shores

of the Sea of

1S47_1,S52,

—Eise of the Omsk Department —reatures of the Sea of Aral—Physical features of Syr-Daria—Branches of the %r-Daria—Vegetation along

Territory under consideration

tlie

the Banks of the

Syr—Aspect

Scarcity of Sweet

Water

fluence

of the Barren

Steppes-

— Commencement of Russian In-

—Intrigues of the Kokanians —Oppressive rule of —Fortifications along the Syr—Krst Russian

the Kokanians

Fort

projected

— Hostilities

with the Russians

—

—

First

on the Sea of Aral Organisation of a Steam FlotUla— Armament of the Flotilla. 292—329

Flotilla

.

CHAPTER PART

.

IX.

II.

—

Survey of the Syr-Daria above the Aral Fortification Inimical hearing of the Kokanians Fxpeditian of Colonel

—

Blaramherg

— demolition

—Expedition is

to

of the Kohanian Fortifications Taking of Ak-Mechet It

— — — Proceedings of the Kokanians.

Ak-Mechet

re-named Fort Perovski

1852- 185J.

—Advance of the Expedition — First Results of the Expedition — Composition of Second Expedition — Dethe Steppe parture from Fort Aralsk — Danger from Fire

Armed Survey

—Assault

of the Syr in 1852

and Capture of the Suburbs

in.

—Additional Active Siege —Incidents

Fortifications at

of

The Sap

Hostilities

finished

Ak-Mechet

—Diplomatic

of the Siege

— Commencement

Preliminaries

of the

—Prosecution of the Siege

and the Mine sprung

—Results

of the

—A

CONTENTS.

XIV

PAGE.

—Engagement with a Kokanian Force — Fort inforcement — Rumours of an Attack Perovski besieged by 13,000 Kokanians — Kokanian Plans 330 — 3G6 Campaign. Capture of Ak-Mecliet

]?e-

in

of

.

CHAPTEH PART

X.

III.

Events in the Steppe during the Crimean Wai occupy IIodja-Nias tion

—

—

Iset-Kute-

— Attempt

of Ferovski to Occupation of Djulek, and Dentruc-

Knight of the Steppe

har, the

of Yany- Kurgan. 1854—1802.

Intrigues on

1lie

Steppe

— A Kirgliiz Rob Roy— Career of Iset-

— Treachery of Tset-Kntebar—Engagement —The Cossacks defeated by Iset-Kutebar Renewed Pursuit of Iset-Kutebar — Death of Perovski — Kutebar

witli

Iset-Kutebar

Garrison

— The Russian —Reprisals of the Kokanians Commercial Relations — DiiEoulties the

stationed

at

Fort Hodja-Nias

Claim to Fort Hodja-Nias Insecurity of

of

—

Commissariatsian

mode

of

Difficulties of

Intercommunication

Extending Territory

graphic Question

— Involuntary

—Importance

Annexation

Communicatiou between Russia and India and Russia are to be conterminous.

CHAPTER

—Rus-

of the Tele-

by Russia

—Where England 367 — 400 .

.

XI.

Diplomatic Relations between Eussia and Bokhara.

By

Zalesqf.

1836—1843. Relations of Russia with

Bokhara— List

Khiva—Bokharian Embassy j3okhara

— Avaricious

Aims

of

of Grievances against

1836—Russian

of Bokharian

Mission to

Embassies- In-

—

CONTENTS.

structions

to

the Mining Expedition

Complications in 1840

—Rumours

with Cabul— Deatli of Mukin-Beg Instructions of

Re-inme oi

tlie

M. Butenef

Political

of a Russian Alliance

other

—Proposed Terms of Treaty

—Departure

1840— Anival

PAGE.

—British

—Diplomatic and

Envoy's Instructions

Colonel Stoddart

Bokhara in

XV

— Attempt to

of the Mission

of the Mission at

Ijiberatc

— State

of

Bokhara

Opening of the Negotiations— Interview of the Envoy Outbreak of the Afghan War

with Colonel Stoddart

—

—

Rupture of the Negotiations The Emir's Reply to the Scientific Results of the Expedition Ultimatum

—

Effrontery of the Bokharians

—

— Cessation

Intercourse

.

CHAPTER On

the Commercial Prospects

of .

Diplomatic .

407

—455

XII.

of Centrnl Asia, viewed

in

connexion with Sussia. of Exports and Im— —Alteration of Imports twenty-five years —Import of Specie into Central Asia— Development of Trade the Kirghizes —-Provisions of Russo-Chinese Treaty Central Asia — Cotton Prospects of Russian Trade Trade — Prospects of Cotton Growing Eabrics suitable Growing Cotton Bokhara —^More care required erecting want of Transport —Necessity New Ports— Strategical Policy of Russia— Obstacles the way of rearing Cattle — Good Policy of encouraging AgriKhiva — Routes across culture —Prevalence of Slavery Independent Tartary —Trade with Petropavlovsk—^Future Transport of Goods — Various Commercial Route 456 — 497 protecting Trade. Routes proposed —Requisites

State of Trade in Central Asia ports

Statistics

in

witli

in

for

in

in

for

Difficulties for

in

in

for

for

CONTENTS.

APPENDICES.

APPENDIX

I.

PAGE.

501

Itinerary of Routes in the Trans-Hi and Cliu Regions.

APPENDIX

— 517

II.

Astronomical Determinations in Eastern Turkestan and Dzungaria.

518—523

.

APPENDIX March-Route from Turfan

to

III.

Kashgar in Little Bokhara.

APPENDIX Notes on the Intercourse of

524

— 535

IV.

By

Russia with Khiva.

G.

536

Kiihlewein.

— 552

LIST OF PLATES, ETC. 1.

A

2.

Part of the City of Kungrad, seen from the River Amu-Daria

3.

Mid-day Halt on a Kirghiz Steppe.

4.

Russian Steam Barges opposite Kungrad, on the

Bashkir Cjravanserai at Orenburg.

(Oxus)

.

.

.

Frontispiece.

.26

.

238

.

Daria.

Amu327

MAP OF CENTRAL

ASIA.

SKETCHES OF TEASEL IN VAEIOUS REGIONS OE

CENTRAL

ASIA.

CHAPTER

1.

INTRODUCTION.

Much

of the uncertainty attaching to the

region hitherto

the general

known

name

adopts

a

new

EngHsh readers under

to

of Tartary,

to the perversity with

undoubtedly due

is

which each fresh

spelling

for himself,

recondite principle of phonography.

attempt, moreover, cism, and, philology,

student.

is

which tend

to

still

elicit

upon some Every such criti-

new views

of

further to perplex the

element of

seems to have been pretty the lune-shaped tract

traveller

sure to provoke hostile

in so doing,

Another

immense

much

difficulty,

overlooked,

—extending over

which is

that

52° of longi]?

.

2

Jiifrodiiclioii

tude,

from Orenburg in

i. e.

5

lat.

1

48 N. 55°

on the meridian of 107'

to

Kiakhta,

in

about the same latitude,

1

E.,

2'

E.

and

the main width of

which, however, owing to the physical configuraspurs of the Altai,

tion of the

much

lower parallels

five, distinct

languages

40°,

and

of 4G'

sort of debatealjle land

between the

lies

for at least

—forms

four,

if

a

not

— namely, the Persian, the

Bokharian,the Thibetan, and the Mongolian, besides

With

the recently intruded Russian. at least

two of

contempt

induces

naturally

and last-named, the

these, the first

generated n

by

respect to

a

higher

system

of

civilization

nomenclature

founded upon the language of the more civilized

community, and,

indigenous

the

from

in consequence,

differing

appellations

widely

by which the

more prominent places are known to the natives. In consulting, therefore, the accompanying translations

from the Russian of the works of ^^alikhanof,

Veninkof, and others,

mind

that

it is

it

is

necessary to bear in

quite possible any given

spot has

been already visited and described by Europeans,

who have contented themselves with

A

the

names

bestowed

l)y their

of this

the \wv\ ersity with which Russian hydro-

is

native guides.

noted instance

graphers and Russian travellers, Avhen speaking of

Periicni

ami Russian

the region watered

by the

AcqitisUions.

3

Syr-Daria, persis-

river

tently speak of Fort Perovski, a stronghold on the

caravan route from Bokhara to Petropavlovsk Siberia,

195 m.

W.

of

(in

Omsk), quite recently con-

structed to check the audacity of the Kirghiz Cossacks, ignoring that since the close of last century

an important native town has

opposite bank, which will be found in

maps under the name Ak-Mesjid.

on the

existed all

There

the best

is

perhaps

a political reason for these attempts to extinguish the native names, since sia

it is

notorious that both Per-

and Russia have long been endeavouring

their Avay eastward tive

and southward.

The

to feel

exhiius-

system of agriculture which travellers have

described as characterizing Persia, and which, witli

advantages hardly equalled, certainly not surpassed,

by any Oriental country,

still

keeps her impoverished

and consequently warlike along her frontier readily account for the

line, will

attempts of that power to

subjugate the mountainous region, interspersed with fertile valleys,

which forms her Eastern boundary.

Hence the permanent prevails

among

feeling of irritation

the Hill-tribes

frontier of our Indian Empire,

currence,

every

few

years,

all

which

along the N.AY.

and the constant of

re-

some miserable

squabble about Herat, which, although distant 500

4

liilrodtii-lioii.

miles of the wildest mountain desert from Attock,

the fashion to call " the key of India " in

it is still

Bombay is only twenty from London, and when Bombay and when

these days, distant

days Cal-

cutta are themselves on the eve of being brought

withhi three days of each other by the development of om' Indian railways.

A

seem

sight,

we

to give

find that

some ground

on the north.

frontier

might, for

at

first

when

alarm,

Russia has virtually pushed forward

300 miles

her outposts to within

more

map

cursory glance at the

But the

British

of the

barrier here

is

even

impassaljle than that to the westward, since

there intervenes between

supposed secret object of trigues in those regions,

the Muscovite all his

and the

movements and

the mighty barrier of the

Hindoo Koosh, and the Kuen Lun, which like a wall,

17,000

feet high,

certainly practicable for an

tury

civilization.

terests

of

ought to is

of

science

war

as

waged by 19th is

that,

and humanity.

in

Great

cen-

the

in-

Britain

form of European civilization

penetrating the howling wilderness that

the North of the

—none

army with the materiel

The truth

rejoice that any

rise

with scarcely a crest

or depression throughout their entire extent

and appliances

in-

Himalaya.

lies

to

Secure behind that

Impombility of a Riiman Invasion. impassable bulwark,

more secure

still

in

5

the gra-

dual elevation in the scale of nations of the vast

population which destiny has committed to charge, she ought to view with feelings

of

her

sym-

pathy and interest any policy that will replace the barbarities of such

men

Hodja Khan, and the

as

other rnifians that infest the territory conterminous

N.N.W.

with our own to the

The phantom, however,

of a Russian invasion of

India has so completely possessed certain classes of quid nuncs, that

it is

possible a succinct sketch

of the physical peculiarities of the country

be out of

place,

may

and such a synopsis would

not

at all

events be required to enable the reader to compre-

Our ignorance

hend the following pages.

region in question has long been

made

of the

a matter of

reproach to us, and our knowledge, " chiefly conjectural," has

been stigmatized as a disgrace to

science, " owing to It

readily

impeach

country,

if

wretched state of imperfec-

would perhaps puzzle those who thus

tion."

sacrificed

its

so

the

many

we were

energy which has valuable

to ask

lives

them

in

already

this

to devise

very

means

for

throwing open to Anglo-Saxon enterprise a coun-

try

where emphatically every man

his hand.

Something more

is

carries his life in

required to pj-ove con-

n

Iiiirodiiclioji.

rage "

conduct

ov

Coward

!"

than

and dangers of

the hardships

before

!"

or

succeeding traveller recoils

each

as

" Fool

exclaim,

to

Round

through Little Bokhara.

journey

a

that land of ro-

mance, the genius of the West has flung a mantle of refinement,

till

a sort of notion has got abroad that

virtues of savage

the

America,

banished from North

among

survive

still

the Kara

Kirghiz Kaisaks, garians,

life,

the hordes of the

Kalpaks,

and the Kashgarians.

Feramorz or

Alaris,

Dzun-

the

Every Khan

is

a

and among the perennial snows

of the Pamir, or the great table-land in \Ahich the

[ndus takes

its

rise,

the imagination delights to

picture a state of primeval innocence

and Arcadian

simplicity, instead of one of constant Avar, disgraced

by more than the atrocities that ordinarily accom-

pany Oriental

Anything

warfai'e.

like a

physico-geographical and ethno-

must

graphical sketch of Central Asia lie

a

compilation of e\er}' authority from

of R^ubruquis odd, to

necessarily

and Jenkinson 300 years ago,

more modern

the

researches

of

Lesvchine,

Abbott, A\'ood, Burnes, ConoUy, Nikoforof, ravief,

etc.

aiis|)ices

Mou-

These have been in many instances

corrected by the researches since of

days

tlie

the

Russian

made under

Geographical

the

Socictv,

Phi/.sira/ 8/r-i'fch

af

including

the

authorities

whose sketches of

experiences

appearance for the

first

Uxl-Urt.

l/ii'

the

of

7

distinguished

now make

travel

their

time in an English transla-

Enough, however, remains to enable us

tion.

to

supply a general idea of the entire region, distinguishing the various Khanats, and tracing their general history tiU within

what may be

which may be stated as commencing only

period,

within the last ten .years

Government has begun partly forts,

called the historic

;

in fact, since the Russian

to enforce

by the establishment partly

by

sort of order,

armed

of

offering to the

some

stations

and

towns which used to

be great entrepots of trade an outlet

for their pro-

ducts through Western Siberia andRussia in Europe.

Western or

Independent Tartary,

called in the text-books of

it

geography of the

generation, comprises the following

which, for convenience sake,

we

main

shall

seriatim, beginning with the river

after a Westerly course of

as

was last

divisions,

enumerate

Emba, which,

800 miles

falls

into the

Caspian in 47° N. 53° 15' E.: I.

The country South

of the river

or Jem, consists of a table-land

Caspian and Aral, and of

620

first

feet

rises to

Emba, Yemba

which separates the an average elevation

according to a profile

sketch which

appeared in Lesvchine's work on the Kirghiz

^

I)dr()(h(ctioii.

Kaisaks, and which

we reproduce

in the

This table-land, known as the Ust-Urt, miles in

lengtli,

about 240

and extends the whole width,

between the two

160 miles,

is

Appendix.

The

seas.

entire

East side of the plateau forms a bold coast line along the Western shores of the Sea of Aral, and at

comer

S.E.

it

turns aljruptly to the

W.N.W.,

its

the

angle thus formed at the S.W. corner of the Sea of Aral being is,

in fact, the

known

"the Tchink."

as

The Ust-Urt

S.W. con tin nation and extremity of the

great Steppe of the Kirghiz Kaisaks, this portion

forming part of the territory of the Lesser Horde. II.

Aral,

South of the Ust-Urt, and of the Sea of is

the

plain of as

28

Khanat of Khiva, including the desert

Kharesm, and the

oasis of the

also the rich, well-watered plain of ]\Ierv, 37°

N.,

62°

10'

E.

This region, also

older geographies as Turan, to Captain

ing

same name,

line,

Abbott, on the

S.

is

known

in

bounded, according

by an

irregular cui'v-

extending from the river Attreck, which

debouches into the S.E. angle of the Caspian, 37° N., 54° E. nearly to Herat, where

it

in

turns N.,

and becomes the Eastern boundary of the Khanat.

The Eastern boTUidary

follows

an imaginary line

corresponding pretty closely with the 63° meridian, crossing the Onus, or Anui-Daria, about 90 miles

W

Jrca and Features of of Bokhara, it

and

Ike K/ianat of K/rifa.

thence prolonged northward

is

intercepts the Syr-Daria, or Jaxartes, about

miles from

its

The area

month.

these boundaries

With

120

round numbers 450,000

in

is

till

compi'ised within

square miles, the surface of which uniform.

9

singularly

is

the exception of the banks of the

Oxus, and the oasis of Merv, the entire country

moun-

presents an unbroken waste, unrelieved by tains,

last

rivers,

or

lakes,

mentioned,

is

The

forests.

Ust-Urt,

nominally part of the Khanate of

Khiva, but the extreme cold of winter, and the intense heat of summer, able.

The

sand-stone

changing into a firm

upon the

on the

resting

cliay

in

is

gradually

upon lime-stone.

which the Oxus

dried river course

banks

its

is

represented as

the desert of the Kharesm,

till it

Balkan Bay, 39° 40' N. improbable in is

causing

many

in

from the Oxus, and finding

of Aral itself

rises,

places

In some of the older maps, a

during the autumn.

trinsically

S.,

Khanat

season, the melting of the snows of the

that river to overflow

at

almost uninhabit-

of the various rivers of course depends

Hindoo Koosh,

filled

it

geological formation of this

principally red

The volume

make

known

occasionally

way

its

across

reaches the Caspian

There

is

nothing in-

this diversion, as the

to be

117

feet

Sea

above the

10

Iidrodiiction.

are

Usbec

tribe the latest dynasty of

Khans

The dominant race

level of the Caspian.

Tartars, to

which

belongs, and the population

by

is

variously estimated,

800,000, by Fraser, at 1,500,000,

Balbi, at

and by Abbott,

Khiva, the capital,

2,600,000.

at

which, as will be seen, was visited by Kiihlewein, is

situated on

41° 22' 40" N.,

near the Oxus, in

a fertile plain

by

60°

£

57' E., and

and arranged

lation of III.

in

narrow

about half

1500 houses,

a mile square, containing about built,

is

streets,

clay

with a popu-

about 12,000 permanent inhabitants.

Immediately

Ivhanat of Khiva

is

to

the

eastward

that of Bokhara,

the

of

which has

acquired a melancholy interest for England by the fate,

long wrapped in mystery, of Colonel Stoddart

and Captain Conolly, and the heroic enterprise of the late Dr. Wolff,

who penetrated

as far as

Samar-

cand, only to find confirmation of the bloody fate

which rumour had already hinted

as having over-

The

taken our adventurous countrymen. the Khanat of Bokhara are even define than those of Khiva, political fluctuations of this

owing

Khan claimed the

the Hindoo-Koosh,

difficult to

to the incessant

unhappy country.

should seem that when Burnes country, the

more

limits of

first

visited

entire territory

including Balkh

It

(the

the

from

ancient

1

Physical Features of the

Khan a I of Bokhara.

1

and Andku, or Ankoi, where Moorcroft

Bactria)

died, to the basin of the Syr-Daria, or

from 35° N.

to 45° 30' N., while the Eastern boundary, in the ab-

sence of precise geographical data, has been variously stated at 68° to 70° E.

The Eastern

and the Western boundary of what

known

as

is,

in

variously

is

Chinese Turkestan, or Little Bokhara,

(the scene of Lalla Rookh), of

are

frontier

conterminous with the Khanat of Kokan,

fact,

Yarkend and Kashgar.

which the

capitals

But since 1849, the

advance of Russia along the valley of the Syr-Daria

and the incursions of the Kirghiz of the Middle

Horde on the one hand, and

made

the other, have

anything but

a

of the Kokanians on

the basin of the Syr-Daria

desirable

and

acquisition,

understood that the reigning Khan

of

it

is

Bokhara

does not assert his sovereignty beyond the parallel of 41° N.,

so that

extent

of the

miles,

with

a

we may

Khanat

at

estimate the present

about 230,000 square

population

estimated by

Irving

(1809), at 3,600,000, by Burnes at 1,000,000,

Eraser

at

1,200,000.

Bokhara doubts

3,500,000, and by

at

Eraser, however, speaks of the city of

as containing

if

Balbi (1826),

by

.any other

120,000 houses

Eastern

city,

alone,

and

except some of

the Chinese capitals, contains so large a population

;

2

I/itrodi/cfion.

1

and

as the soil

is

argillaceous in the plains,

valleys have long enjoyed in

somewhat resembling it

and the

the East a reputation

Tempe

that of

Thessaly,

in

seems probable that the larger estimates are the

more

likely to

sected

The

be correct.

from S.E. to

N.W

territory

is

inter-

by the Oxus, or

Amu-

Daria, the only other river of importance being

whence the ancient

tributary, the Kholik, or Sogd,

name Sogdiana, given marcand

The

its

to the district of

which Sa-

the present capital.

is

eastern portion of this

Of

occupied by mountains.

Khanat

is

entirely

these the chief are

the Kish range, between Kish, 39° N. 67° E., and

Samarcand, a spur of the little-known Kara-Dagh chain.

In

this

exceedingly rugged, precipitous

system of mountains occurs the celebrated Derbend or

Koluga Pass, ("the Iron Gate

"),

leading from

Kish, S.E., and forming the sole means of com-

munication with Hissar and thence to AfFghaiiistan.

A

still

loftier

range commences to the

N.E. of

Bokhara, and runs eastward to the borders of the

Khanat

of

Kokan, where

it

converges at right angles

to the Bolor or Belur Tagh.

Dagh, or "White Mountains,

This "

is

called the

and seems

to

Ak-

mark

the Northern boundary of the celebrated high-lving table-laud of Pamii', on the ^Vest side of which the

Sourrt'x of the

Oxus takes

The

its rise.

13

or Aiiiii-Baria.

0,rii.s

scene,

described by

as

Lieutenant Wood, who penetrated thither on the 19th February, 1838, in mid-winter,

we need

14,400

a spot elevated

level of the sea,

ceed further to

;

some of

it

On

here.

above the

feet

his escort refused to

upon which Lieutenant

Wood

pro-

deter-

push forward with the remainder through

deep, new-fallen

snow

:

—

"

As we neared the head

waters of the Oxus, the ice brittle.

so striking that

not apologize for introducing

reaciiing

mined

is

became weak and

After quitting the surface of the river,

we

hour along the right bank, and

travelled about an

then ascended a low the valley to the E.

hill

which apparently bounded

on surmounting

;

of the 19th February,

this at 5 p.m.

1838, we stood, to use a

native expression, on Bam-i-Diiniah, or

'

Roof of

the World,' while before us lay stretched a noble frozen

from whose Western ex-

sheet of water,

tremity issued the infant Oxus. lies in

the form of a crescent, about 14 miles long

from E. to three sides

500

W. by it is

one mile in average breadth.

bordered by swelling

feet high, while along

into mountains feet

This fine lake

above

3500

sea-level,

feet

its

hills

On

about

south bank they rise

above the lake, or 19,000

covered with perpetual snow,

from which never-failing source the lake

is

supplied.

14

Intrddtictioii.

From

observations

made

the

at

elevation,

as

deduced from the

water, 15, GOO feet. encircle

W

The

hills

Lake Sir*-i-Kol give

principal rivers

in

boiling

found

I

point

and mountains

of

that

some of the

rise to

From

Asia.

end,

73° 40' E., and the

the latitude to be 37' 27' X.,

the ridge of

its

East end flows a branch of the Yarkand, one of the largest streams that water Chinese Turkestan,

while from the low Sir,* or river of

hills rising

Kokan

and from the sunny chain

;

opposite, both forks of the

Kunar

the

on the \. issues the

Oxus and

When

are supplied.

the lake

by the molten snows of summer, the river is

a branch of

correspondingly increased,

is

swollen

size

of the

and no

great

alteration takes place in the level of the lake itself.

The aspect

of

the landscape was wintr\- in

extreme. Wherever the eye of

fell,

the

one dazzling sheet

snow covered the ground, while the skv

OAcr-

head was everywhere of

a

dark and angry hue.

Clouds would have been

a

rehef to the eje, but

Not

they were utterly wanting.

along the face of the lake

;

a breath

moved

not a beast, not even

;i

bird was visible." * Eeceiit authorities since the however, established that there takes

its rise so

of the Belur

far

is

visit

no

south as Luke

and the Ak-Dagh

of Lieutenant

"Wood huvc,

affluent of the 8yr-Diiii;i, Sir-i-Ivol,

intci'veuing.

tlie

which

immense ranges

Description of the K//ciinit of Kokaii.

IV.

The next region

J

calling for notice

is

5

the

Khanate of Kokan, which may be succinctly described as comprising almost the entire valley of

the Syr-Daria and

its

fact that this State

has only recently assumed a pro-

minent position in Oriental in consequence

which form

its

makes

it

politics,

nomad

of the

and

that, partly

half-savage hordes

northern population, partly from

geographical position, earliest to

But the

various confluents.

come

into

it

has been

direct

among

collision

its

the very

with Russia,

much

necessary to describe with as

ac-

curacy as possible, the exact limits of the territory over which the

Khan

of

Kokan

asserts his sove-

In order to this purpose

reign rights.

it

will

be

necessary to revert to the north shore of the Sea of Aral, from

which extends eastward a

steppes, inhabited

Kiasaks,

who

are

principally

divided

by

into

the the

series

of

Kirghiz

Lesser or

Western, Middle, and Great Hordes, the latter being the farthest to the east, and extending indeed as far as the great

Lake Balkash, and the banks

the Hi, of which mention will be found in the

lowing pages.

The

of fol-

pressure, however, of a power-

ful civihzation in the north,

and a sudden impetus

imparted to the recent history of Kokan, owing to its last

Khan having

dexterously availed himself

I/ifrodiidioii.

IT)

among

of the dissensions long rife

neighbours,

his

have tended to bring these wandering hordes into to one

a sort of precarious allegianoe

the

contending

advance from

it

the

Russia has made her

])owe]'s.

would seem

from the N.E.,

chiefly

Government

Tomsk,

of

in

Hence the Greater Horde has been the

outposts

it is

upon

to feel

shall pre-

that the Russian

side

this

have been pushed forward to the

foot of the

Kuen-Lun

viz.,

Siberia.

first

we

the weight of her authority, and, as sently see,

other of

or

\'ery

But a not

to the north.

less,

severe coercion was meanwhile being exercised by

the Kokanians, and hence

the Khanat are

now

we

find the limits

of

said to extend as far north as

the Ala-Tau, or Algonski range in South- Western Siberia

(Lat.

48°

North), in

River Sary-su, which

falls

may be

its limits

said to niark

this point the

boundary

which

parallel the

into the Teli-Kul Lake,

eastwards.

line, at latest

From

accounts, ex-

tends to the banks of the Syr-Daria, where the

Russians have erected the

fort

of

Perovsky on

the right bank,, facing the Kokanian town of

Mesjid already alluded opposite.

to,

which

is

Ak-

immediately

Although, however, the Russians have

pushed forward thus

far, it is

simply with the A'iew

of checking the predatory habits

of the

Kirghiz,

Limits of the Khanat of Kokan.

who acknowledge The

Kokan.

17

the sovereignty of the

Khan

of

actual boundary line lies farther to

the East, and includes the entire Western water-

Prom

shed of the great Lake of Balkash. point

it

continues S.E. to the Lake of Issyk-

still

Here

Kul.

it

encounters the immense chain of the

Thian Shan, which bounds frontier, separating it

it

abruptly along

selves at the table-land

city

again find our-

of Pamir,

which forms a

The

the South.

Western boundary it

includes a con-

sweep of land yet further west than the Khojend,

of

S.E.

we

seems to be rather arbitrary, but siderable

its

from Dzungaria and Chinese

Turkestan, after passing which

barrier to

this

Ultima of

Cyropolis

(the

The

entire

length of

may be roughly

stated at

classical writers).

this extensive

territory

950 miles by an average breadth 345,000 square miles

;

Alexandria

or

of 360, or about

the whole surface being ex-

ceedingly mountainous, and

forming in part the

west buttress of the great central table-land of Asia.

The whole region

streams,

all

is

intersected

flowing towards

the

by immense

Syr-Daria, the

majority of which, however, lose themselves in the

numerous extensive

lakes

which here begin to stud

the surface of the country, and possess no visible outlet.

Kokan, though rather more

to the north

c

!>>

Introduction.

than Bokhara, a better

on the whole, more

is,

but sheep

soil,

still

fertile

form, as in past ages,

Kokan

the chief wealth of the community. cludes within

its

in-

boundaries a number of consider-

able towns, besides the capital of the (a

and of

same name

comparatively modern town), Khojend already

mentioned, and which

still

numbers

30,000

habitants, Andijan the former capital, a

Eastward of the present

capital,

little

in-

to the

Tashkend with a

population said to amount to 100,000, and others

doomed

dating from remote times, but

decay

to

beneath the constant warfare which has so long

Of the amount

devastated this region. tion

of popula-

under the sway of the Khan of Kokan,

it is

quite impossible to give even an approximate esti-

mate, owing to the uncertainty that prevails as to the Kirghiz and other armed tribes, but Nazarof

reckons the standing mihtia at

50,000 horsemen. but there trict

is

This

may be an

Syr-Daria

is

of.

least not

at

There

is

Kokan and

we have

The time occupied by

vans between Kokan and Bokhara

tween

than

exaggeration,

populated than the regions

already treated

weeks.

fewer

every reason to believe that the dis-

watered by the

less thickly

no

but

little

Little

is

cara-

about six

communication beBokhara, the

Thian

9

Our Limited Jcqi/aiulance with

Shan

interposing

an

Little

almost

Bokhara.

1

insurmountable

obstacle.

V. Little

Eastern Turkestan, Chinese Turkestan, or

Bokhara,

of

this

region, that with

which we have hitherto had the

least acquaintance.

Its

is,

all

Northern, Western, and Southern frontiers are,

we know

indeed, tolerably well defined, and as since about

the middle of

nominally belonged to the

may assume it

that

will gradually

its

century,

Chinese

Eastward

limit

merge

last

it

Empire,

is

has

we

indefinite, as

Mongolia, somewhere

in

that

still

further to the East than the great saline basin of the

The Northern boundary

Lob-nor.

is

Dzungaria,

which forms the subject of a separate chapter. The

Western

is

the Khanat of

Kokan

already described,

including the precipitous Eastern front of the table-

land of Pamir, and

and Thibet

it is

shut off from Little Thibet

Proper,, to the

South and South-East, by

the Eastern half of the Hindoo-Koosh, and the tern chain of the great

Wes-

Kuen-Lun, over which the

most frequented pass is that of Kara-Korum, 18604 feet

above sea

level,

connecting Ladak with Yark-

end by the headwaters of the Shayok, which, ing in a glacier not far from the pass

ris-

itself, falls

into the Indus after a Westerly course of 320 miles, just above the

town of Iskardo, 35° 10" N. 75° c 2

28' E.

20

Infnxh/ctioii.

The

entire territory of Little Bokhara,

assuming

it

to extend as far as the meridian of 90°, thus includ-

ing the great Lake of Lob,

but relieved by large and

common where

Of

it

in the extreme,

is sterile

oases

fertile

—

to the continuation of the desert eastward

becomes the great Desert of Gobi or Shamo.

the various oases, the most important

known

a feature

are those of Kashgar, Yarkend,

Of these the first-named hes

and best

and Khotan.

at thefoot of thesouthern

spurs of the Thian-Shan range, and consists of a

well-watered tract, on the principal river of which,

by the same name,

called

This was, for

many

pendent prince

;

the city of Kashgar.

is

centuries,

but,

the seat of an inde-

since the rebellion of 1826,

reduced by the Chinese authorities to

has been

a

secondary position in the district of Hi, of which

Yarkend also

is

the capital, and to which Khotan has

been attached.

Kashgar

and 74' E. (approximative) it is

situated,

;

city

and the

after a course of

in 39° 25' N.,

is

river

300

on which

miles, unites

with that of Yarkend to form the Tarym, which, after a further course of

great

Lake

famous

for

of Lob-nor.

250

miles, falls

Both these streams

the splendid specimens

of jasper

jade-stone which are found in their beds.

end

is

into the

are

and

Yark-

the capital of the Chinese district of Hi,

Physkal Features of Chinese Turkestan.

and

situate in

is

river (already

walled,

21

38° 10' N. and 76° 30' E. on a

mentioned) of the same name.

It is

but with extensive suburbs, and has a

population variously estimated at from 40,000 to

200,000. It has belonged to China since 1757, and is

governed by Mahometan and Chinese

alternately.

The environs

producing wheat, barley, there

is

name

Yarkend

to

is

of Ja-lo-Kiang.

the Eastward of Yarkend, and

by the Chinese

said

cultivated,

and

rice, fruits,

extensive pasturage.

the Chinese by the lies to

are highly

officials

silk,

known to

—Khotan an oasis

lies in

be about 1000

and

or

li.

350

m. in circumference, immediately to the North of the

Kara-Korum

number

Pass.

of streams,

the Lob-nor.

is

watered by a great

all

of which flow into

It

almost

It contains the six cities of

Yurun-Khash, Kara-Khash, hubin, each of which

is

Djira-,

Keria,

Khotan,

and Tak-

governed by a Hakim, whose

united votes constitute what

is

of Khotan.

see the discrepancies

into

have

It is painful to

called the Council

which even the most renowned geographers fallen as to the true

site of

this

town, which

has been variously stated as on any meridian be-

tween 75 E. and 84 E.

According to the most

reliable authorities, the city is situate in 37°

N. and

80° 35' E., a position which very nearly corresponds

22

Introduction.

with the

assigned

site

the N.E. of the

to

Kara-Korum

or Ho-taen of the Chinese, tain about

a

Pass. It

and

It

was

originally

foimded

but the magnificent

about the second century;

Temples

destroyed

by

the

portion

shadow, as

it

which

and

Monasteries

Mahometan

the

Chinese

acquisitions here after the

all

The

conquerors.

were, of the Ala-Tagh,

most

were

Bokhara, under

of Little

of Aksu, one of the into

the Th-tchi

is

colony, supposed to have been

Buddhist

to

supposed to con-

is

50,000 inhabitants.

Hindoo

northern

as immediately

it

fertile

the

the district

is

of the provinces

have subdivided their

The

of 1826.

revolt

products are various, consisting chiefly of

lentils,

wheat, barley, millet, apricots, grapes, and melons,

and cotton

The lat.

is

capital,

41^

kowski,

9'

is

viceroy.

are

of. the

grow here

same

of fair quality.

name,

situate

is

N., 78° 40' E., and, according to

in

Tim-

the seat of a Chinese ambassador or

The, population of the town

by Moorcroft district at

also said to

at

estimated

about 25,000, and of the entire

130,000.

renowned

is

The

natives

for their taste in

of the

district

dressing hides and

manufactiuring cotton goods, and

it is

stated that

there are mines of copper and one of rubies in the

mmediate neighbourhood.

CHAPTER

II.

Alridged Narrative of a Journey

to

Historical Particulars relating

during KJian,

The

the

to

Khiva,

voith

the Klianat

Government of Seid-Mohammed

1856-1860, by E. Kuhlewein.

Mission for Central Asia, organized in 1858

by the Russian Government, under the immediate, superintendence of General Ignatief,

on the 27th of rivers Ilek

May

of that year,

left

Orenburg

and crossing the

and Emba, passed through the Oren-

burg Steppe and along the Western shore of the Sea of Aral to Aibugir Lake.

was

determined to cross

At Cape Urga*

in native boats,

it

as the

previously selected route, via Kuhna-Urgendj, was

found to be inconvenient in many respects.

Erom Cape Urga to Aibugir *

4.3°

settlement, stretches

40' N,, 58° 10' E. (approximative.)

24

Travels in Central Asia.

the South-Eastern Tchink* of the Ust-Urt, which visibly diminishes

in elevation as

it

retires

the Sea of Aral, and in so doing loses

wild aspect, although long

for a

distance

continues

it

to

and

rocky

its

its

from

former

preserve

precipitous

characteristics.

Near Cape Urga the Mission was met by four deputies from the

Khan

Karakalpak Prince

Murad

bergen,

These were the

of Khiva.

Istleu,

the Kirghiz

Bey Az-

Bek, and a son of the Governor of

These envoys accompanied us to our

Kungrad.

camp, which was situated near Aibugir Lake, and pyramidal tower, erected

close to a four-cornered

by Prince Bekovitch

in

17l7.t

The passage over Aibugir Lake took owing

to the insufficient

number

three days,

of boats,

and the

tedious transhipment of the heavy baggage of the

Aibugir Lake

Mission.

* L'Oust-Ourt de

pieds

est

is

about eighty miles long

un plateau qui ii'a nuUe part plus de six cents du niveau des mers qu'il separe. termine en se dessinant circulairement par un

hauteur au-dessus

Cette haute plaine se

rivage escarp^ et tout boulcvcrsc, que les Kirghiz, nomuient Chink,

au has du quel s'eteud, en declinant, scription des

Kirghiz-Kaizaks

:"

la plaine basse.

(Lesvehine, "De-

Paris, Iiiipriinerie Royale, p.

15

Edition, IS-IO.)

f Prince Bekovitch was despatched by Peter sion to

with

Khiva

in 1717, in the course of

all his suite, in tlic

of Khiva.

town

of Porsu,

tlie

Great on a mis-

which he was massacred,

Ofi

miles to the

North-West

Passaye of Aibuyir Lake.

by twenty

in breadth at the part

The

the Amu-Daria (Oxus).

Bay

the lake occurs in the is

hemmed

in

by the

of

sterile

where we crossed

Laudan, a branch of

Its chief affluent is the

it.

greatest depth in

Ak-Cheganak, which

and precipitous rocks

The banks

of the Ust-Urt Chink.

25

are overgrown

with canes, which cover nearly the whole surface of

The water

the lake.

brackish, with a

is

muddy

bottom.

On

we were met by

the Khivan shore

the above-

mentioned deputies and a guard of honour, which

was to accompany the Mission

On

as far as

Kungrad.

the following day the deputies were accorded a

formal reception by the head of the Russian Mission, in a tent specially

arranged for the occasion.

This audience, however, only lasted half an hour,

and the conversation was

exclusively confined to

ceremonious compliments.

On

the

1

1th July, the Mission,

Khivans, started for Kungrad.

and small

villages

and the whole

by

canals,

fields.

of the

still

escorted

by

Cultivated patches

bordered this part of the road,

face of the

country was intersected

used almost exclusively

for irrigating the

Nearly the whole of the settled population

Khanat

of

Khiva

bank of the Amu-Daria.

is

concentrated on the

Each owner of the

left

soil

26

Ada.

Travels in Central

marks such

allotment with earthen walls, every

off his

enclosure

containing

generally

gardens, cattle, and sometimes a

owner

is

called a

Beg

About half-way Custom-House

to

little

cornfields,

factory

;

the

or Hodja.

Kungrad we were met by

who was

official,

a

the bearer of the

usual salutations from the Khan, and announced that he

had been sent

gage consisted

to inquire of

what the bag-

a rumour had evidently reached

;

Khiva of the embassy being provided with cannon. It

having been explained to him that the baggage

of a Mission to

is

be furnished

never liable to search, he requested at least

with a

list

of our effects.

Satisfied with an inventory of our heaviest things,

he took

his

departure, after being gratified

small present.

The other Khivan

leave of us here,

not omitting to

officials also

by a took

make repeated

inquiries during the day respecting the health of the

head of the Mission. near the garden

We

encamped

for the night

Kirghiz Bey, Azbergen,

of the

where a repast consisting of mutton, bread, and fruit

On

had been prepared the 12th July

for us.

we found

ing Kungrad.

In a small

of the town,

the

all

ourselves

wood within

members

approachhalf a mile

of the Mission put on

their uniforms, with the view of

making an impos-

pi

C

Eiitry into the City of

Kungrad.

27

As we advanced towards the town,

ing entrance.

the crowd gradually increased, and greeted us with incessant shouts of " Urus

TJrus!"

!

After traversing the narrow streets of Kungrad,

we stopped we were

at the gates of the

by Divan

received

specially appointed to

Baba,

an

official

accompany the Mission

to

In this palace apartments were allotted for

Khiva.

member

each

Khan's palace, where

of the

A

Embassy.

in

tent,

which

refreshments had been prepared, was erected in an

The Yesawul Bashi,* governor of

interior court.

the town, did not

He

ing.

did

all

ture. clear.

make

his appearance

till

was evidently alarmed at our

he could

Mission during

The town

of

Khan

and

behaviour was

for this churlish

received orders from the

own expense

provide at his

arrival,

to induce us to hurry our depar-

The motive

He had

the even-

its

for all the

Khan

to

wants of the

stay at Kungrad.

Kungrad extends along the

left

side

canal and the river Amu-Daria.

Be-

tween the right bank of the canal and the

river

of the

runs a broad earthen wall, about three miles in length,

and

at a short distance

* Chief Master of the Ceremonies. or armed attendant at a

means a guard into Russia,

and

is

off,

between

it

and

Yesawul, a Turkish word, court.

It has been adopted

there used to denote a major of Cossacks.

>'^

Travels in Central Asia.

the

river,

is

which abut on the river bank,

both extremities of

a second wall,

thus forming, with the

river,

These two walls

an oblong square.

Kun-

constituted at one time the fortifications of

grad, which town, so late as the beginning of this

century, was independent of Khiva,

by

own Uzbek

its

and governed

During the reign of

princes.

Mohammed-Rahim-Khan,

in 1814, the

and neighbourhood

under

Khans in

is

the sway of the

The most remarkable building

of Khiva.

Kungrad

fell

whole town

the palace of the Khan, which was

occupied by us diuing our stay.

On in

the folloM'ing day the whole ]\Iission started

boats

seven

up

the Amu-Daria,

being towed by four or

each

Our

Khivans.

five

gress

was

day.

In order to avoid falling

tedious, rarely exceeding ten

and sometimes

in

boat pro-

miles a

with Turkmen,

to shorten the journey,

our boats

were hauled through canals and branches of the river,

which had

at this season

These inundations occur twice

overflowed a year,

its

from

banks.

May

to

June, and again from July to August, a sure indication

that

among

the

The

the

sources

snowy chains

effect of these

various

;

some

are

of of

the

river

must

lie

Balkh or Affghanistan.

inundations upon the canals

is

choked with sand, while others

Bcrasfafioihs

are cleaned

the

hij

29

Tiirkiiicii.

and deepened by the pressure of the

water.

The transport

of goods

by water

is

preferable

throughout this region to their conveyance by land, not alone on account of the far lower cost,

but also because the camel-drivers refuse to follow the course of the river, owing to the swarms of

and other

gnats,

gad-flies,

harass,

and even prove

cattle,

as

damp, unwholesome

Almost

which induces ague.

which greatly

fatal occasionally to their

the

to

also

insects,

all

air

the villages and

towns were in a deplorable condition, presenting ample evidence of the devastations of the Turk-

men.

In

ruined "

the

Karakalpaks,

we

aiils

" or

camps

of

the

only found old people and infants

;

the whole of the adult population had been carried

away

to Khiva,

be sold as left

bank

and

The towns

slaves.

of the

with a similar

across the Persian frontier, to

of

Kipchak on the

Amu-Daria, and Hodjeil, had met

fate.

At

a distance of twenty miles

from the ruins of the ancient town of not

far

from the banks of the

town of Yany-Urgendj, after

Khiva,

is

the

Russian merchandise all

or

chief is

New

Giyaiir,

river,

and

stands the

Urgendj, which,

commercial

entrepot.

taken direct to Khiva, but

purchases of native produce are

made

at

Ur-

30

Travels in Central Asia.

All industrial pursuits, moreover, are cen-

gendj.

Gunpowder

tred here.

of the

vicinity

The

tovi^n,

manufactured in the

is

but in no great quantities.

principal seat of production of this article

Hazarasp, a

up the

further

little

The Khan had

Urgendj.

from

river, S.E.

Khivan

sent Darga, a

dignitary, to

Yany-Urgendj with a small

receive us.

He was

is

suite to

venerable old man, and

a

stood apparently high in the favour of the Khan, as his

Cashmere " khalat," or robe of

jewelled dagger, testified.

dignity,

and

In his suite were several

dancers and musicians.

On

the 28th of July

we turned out

Amu-

of the

Daria into the Shavat Canal, on emerging from

which we passed through the Kazavat and Palvan-

Ata Canals, and

finally

reached the capital by the

Tngrik and Chardgeh branches of the two former.

The Mission took up the gardens of

in

had assigned

it.

its

quarters outside the town,

Gumgumdan, which

Having no

horses,

Khan

the

we could not

present ourselves before the Khan, and therefore deferred

On

our audience until the 9th of August,

the day of our arrival, at five o'clock,

visited

we were

by the Shawul Bek,* chamberlain

* In Bokhara, the Shek-Kawaul

is

the

title

to the

of the functionarj, a

sort of diplomatic chamberlain, charged with the reception

commodation

of Foreign Missions.

and

ac-

Tedious

P((KS(if/<' In/

court, -who, in the

head of the

guard

at

Daega,

the town.

nnme

ll'tt/er to

.31

of the Kliaii, invited the

Mission to the palace.

the door of the embassy,

o?;e

Kliiiyi.

we

Leaving a started for

of tke JIinjstees of the Kjiax of Kuh'a.

At the gates

infantry, while the

front of the pahtce.

Avas

drawn up the Kliivan

body-guard was marshalled

We

entered

tlie latter

in

by the

33

Travels in Central Asia.

lofty principal portals, leaving our escort outside

We

were

chief

received by the Mehter, one of the

first

Ministers of the Khan.

observed that

all

must here be

It

the officers of state have apart-

ments

in the

every

day to receive his instructions.

Khan's palace, where they assemble

mained about a quarter of an hour

We

re-

Mehter's

in the

chamber, whence we were summoned into the Khan's presence.

AVe found him seated on an elevated

divan, with a dagger

while behind

him

and

pistol lying before him,

floated his state banner.

ministers, the Kush-Begi, Mehter,

Three

and Divan-Begi,

stood in front, and the Chamberlain at the door.

The Imperial

rescript,

which the Secretary of the

Mission bore on a red cushion, was

now dehvered

by the head of the Mission to the Mehter, who, his turn,

placed

it

in

the hands

of

the Khan.

Having untied the gold cord and taken the case, he examined the seal for

in

some

out of

it

time,

and

then placed the packet beside him without opening

it.

Seid-Mohammed Khan, son

Mohammed-Uahim, and

of the former

brother of the better

Allah-Kuli, was elected in 1856, years old.

He

Khan

known

when he was

thirty

succeeded Kutlu-Murad, nephew of

Mohammed- Amin, who was killed in 1855

at Saraks,

.

33

Unsettled State of the Cotintry

The Turkmen and Karakalpaks,

near Merv.*

with Kutlu-Murad, respectively chose for

satisfied

their

dis-

Khans the

former, Ata-Murad,

and the

latter,

Jarlyk-Tura.

Intimidated by this energetic form of protest,

Kutlu-Murad exhorted

his people to rise against

the Turkmen, who, on their part, perceiving the

weakness of the Khan, determined to take advantage of

it,

and under the leadership of Niaz

Mohammed

Niaz Bai, having gained

Bai, advanced to Khiva.

admittance to the Palace under pretence of paying

homage

to the

ministers.

Khan, murdered him and

his seven

This led to an indiscriminate carnage

in the unfortunate

Turkmen, of

town

whom

;

the inhabitants

very few

made

fell

on the

their escape.

Niaz Bai was there and then seized and executed.

Seid-Mohammed was

After a short interregnum,

His

was

to punish the re-

elected

Khan.

bellious

Turkmen and Karakalpaks.

first

of his troops routed a

on

their

* Merv

act

body

of the rebels

way from Kuhna-Urgendj

is

A detachment who were

to dispute his

a decayed town, situated ia an oasis of the same name,

about 300 miles S.E. of KMva. It was once the capital of the Seljuks, and is supposed to occupy the site of Antiochia Morgiana, founded by Alexander the Great. Since 1786, when it was sacked by the

Uzbeks,

it

has gradually dwindled, tiU

exceed 3000.

its

present population does not

'^

4

Central Jsia.

7)ytr('k in

succession.

On this occasion Jarlik, the Khan chosen

by the Karakalpaks tion

of

that

tribe

in 1855,

was

and

killed,

became subject

to

a por-

Bokhara.

These dynastic disputes, and the constant wars

aris-

ing therefrom, produced a famine, which greatly increased the price of ticular, rising to

summer

if

commodities

an immoderate

of 1857,

aggravated

all

Khiva was

It

bread, in par-

by an epidemic,

visited

strength of the popu-

was remarked during the prevalence of

this pestilence that the rate of mortality larly

the

During the

figure.

not induced by the famine, and the

consequent prostration of lation.

;

high among children.

symptoms

Prom

of this disorder,

it

was particu-

a description of

must have been

the true Asiatic cholera.

Since the year 1856, Khiva has been on friendly

terms with Bokhara.

Seid-Mohammed had

suc-

ceeded in establishing his power so securely, that external aggression

time suspended.

and

intestine strife

were

for a

Thus considering himself firmly

established on the throne, he despatched an embassy to Russia in the

summer

of 1857, conveying an in-

timation of his succession to the Khanat, his con-

dolence on the death of the Emperor Nicholas, and congratulating His Majesty the

Emperor Alexander

the Second on his accession to the throne.

The head

lieceid History of Khiva.

35

of this mission was Tazyl liodja, Sheikh-ul-Islain of the Khanat.

During the stay of the Russian mission the town enjoyed the

tribes,

tranquillity,

mission

and the Turkmen

Yamuds, Igdyrs and

from making depredations left,

;

league with the

others refrained

but immediately the

which was on the

Kungrad Uzbeks and

1 2th

September, the

the Karakalpaks joining in

Turkmen Elan, Ata-Murad,

nated their ruler, Kutlu-Murad, with party.

He was

nephew

of Tiira-Sufi, during

assassi-

many

of his

succeeded by Mohammed-Fanaa,

whose

rule

styled himself

Khan

of the

Kungrad

Mohammed-

became, in 1814, subject to Khiva.

Panaa

Khiva

at

Kharesm, and

struck coins bearing his name.

After the lapse of another year the disturbances

ceased

;

Mohammed-Fanaa was

killed,

again recognized the authority of the

and Kungrad

Khan

of Khiva,

S eid-Mohammed. In 1858 Seid-Mohammed had three legitimate sons, of

whom

the eldest, Babadjan, was 13 years

old; he also adopted the son of his predecessor,

Kutlu-Murad,

The Emir

of

killed in the palace

Bokhara proposed

to

by the Turkmen. marry

his

daugh-

ter to this boy, possibly with the view of exercising

an indirect influence over the

affairs of

Khiva by

D 2

—

36

;

Travels in Central Atsiu.

means

of such a connection.

The Khan was almost

under the influence of his eldest brother,

entirely

Seid-Mahmud, a man of great mental powers and whose advice he often sought,

vast wealth, intellect

his

own

being often obscured by immoderate indul-

gence in opium.

The Khiva

following are the highest functionaries in

—The Mehter or Chief

:

lects thepoU-tax in the

Treasurer,

who

col-

southern half of the Khanate

he likewise occasionally commands the troops, and, during the absence of the Khan, the conduct of the government. authority

is

is

charged with

The second

in

the Kush-Begi, vs^ho receives the poll-

tax for the northern division of the Khanat, recruits the army, and superintends the excavation of canals.

In 1858 the Kush-Begi, a fierce Uzbek, succeeded in

defaming and supplanting the Mehter, whose

functions he himself performed during the stay of

The Divan-Begi

the Mission.

is

the collector of

Customs and Excise dues, and head of the Mint.

The high judge and sponsible for

charge

* In

all

all religious

of the

matters.

Kazy,*

The Darga has

probability the same as the Arabic cadi.

Mohammedanism?

is re-

Khan's palace, and the Yesawul

elder language, or niav of

spiritual chief,

it

Which

is

the

not liave been introdviced with the spread

[Ed]

llujh Oficerfi of the

Bashi

is

these,

who

Khan

of Khiva.

the military commander-in-chief. are

to the person

Mehrems

all,

37

Besides

as already mentioned, attached

of the Khan,

or Courtiers,

Son of

Tjrr:

there are

who wear

Khan

nunierons

a knife, a gift of

of Khiva.

the Khan, which entitles them to free access to the

Court. It

may

not be superfluous to

draw attention

to

38

Travels in Central Asia.

the condition of the Khanat of

itself,

under the rule

we

are to consider,

Seid-Mohammed. Limits of the Khanat.

—

If

under the name of the Khanat of Khiva, the

culti-

vated extent of land stretching along both sides of the lower course of the Amu-Daria,

may be the

its

Lake Aral

fixed at the southern shore of

Kizyl-Kum Steppe and Sheikh-Djeli

the East, the great

and the

Turkmen Steppe on

The pretensions, however,

rivers

Emba and

settlement, ;

lat.

on

the South,

Khan

these

that the boundaries of

of Khiva,

He

limits.

Khiva are the

Yany-Daria, falling into the Sea

of Aral, on the North

East

of the

considerably beyond

maintains

Hills

at

Ust-Urt on the West.

level plain of the

extend

confines

;

a line extending to Kukertli

40° N., on the Amu-Daria,

on the

and on the South from Kukertli to the town

of Merv,

and thence to the Bay of Balkansk on the

East shore of the Caspian.

Assuming the former

the actual limits

as

of

Khiva, this territory does not contain more than

40,000 square

The

number

miles.

popidation

of

the

Khanat

of tribes of separate

origin,

consists of a

which have

not as yet blended into one people. Their is

difhcult to determine, as

taken.

number

no census has ever been

Triijcs iuhdhit'ivg the Klutiiat

The

principal tribes are

nal inhabitants,

who form

end of the

assume that

last

the great majority of the

century, was

oppression of the Uzbeks

Uzbek

tion of all the

the Sarts, the aborigi-

the Sarts suffered

title,

39

Previous to Iltezer Khan, who,

settled population.*

in the

:

of Khiva.

;

the

first

to

much from

the

but, since the subjec-

" Inaks " or

petty rulers of

towns, by Iltezer Khan, the Sarts have been ad-

mitted to the highest the Uzbeks

from which

offices of state,

were gradually excluded.

exception of the post of Kush-Begi,

\Vith the

all

the most

honourable positions are occupied by Sarts, who

have

now become

They

population.

and, in

the predominant class live

principally in the towns,

addition to agriculture,

trade, industrial pursuits,

The by

Sarts are

still

among the

are engaged in

and breeding silk-worms.

distinguishable from the Uzbeks

their type of countenance.

The Uzbeks, the whilom conquering

race,

who

are scattered throughout the whole Khanat, live on

farms, and

occupy themselves with agriculture,

gardening and

fishing.

They now form, both

numerically and politically, the secondary class of the population. * The

The most unruly

sept of this tribe,

Sarts are Persians in language and sect

being equivalent to Taj in Bokharian.

;

Sart in

Khivan

40

Traveh

Cetitral Asia.

in

the Uigurs, were exterminated by the

To

their constant revolts.

Aral,

Uzbeks

the

Khans

for

the north of the Sea of

are called Aral-Uzbeks, insular

or Arasto-Arals, as the whole portion of the region to the north of the

Daria,

is

really

Amu-

Laudan, an arm of the

The Arals

an island.

are

engaged

The

cattle -farming principally, as also in fishing.

Kungrad

tribe,

in

from which the Khan has sprung,

The number

considered the chief one.

and Sarts together

is

reckoned

at

of

is

Uzbeks

400,000.

The Karakalpaks, numbering 15,000

settlers

on

the lower course of the Amu-Daria, near the Aral Sea,

lead

a

nomadic

partially

life.

They

are

burdened with taxes heavier than those imposed on any of the other

tribes, the

being

result

to

completely impoverish them.

The

Kirghizes, under

estimated

at

about

Khivan

10,000

;

jurisdiction,

are

ro^m

the

they

in

North-Eastern portion of the Khanat, more especially in the vicinity of

Lake Dau-Kara.

The Turkmen have

for

ages been

dominion of the Khiva Khans.

Their type and

language are purely Turkish, and ha\e seceded

from the

Khivans,

governed by their own elders

;

under the

many

of

them

and are now

while those

still

subject to Khiva are engaged in constant wrangles

Turkmen Avith the Khivans,

Khan

arising in the election of a

all

The Turkmen

Khan.

of their

opposed

;

own tribe,

were desirous to have a to wliich the

this resulted in the

A

Khan

resides

at

of

murder

Khivans were of three

Khans

TuiiKMA^, OK Turcoman.

by the Turkmen, within

The

41

Insurrections.

their

a short space of

choice,

Kuhna Urgendj.

time.

Ata-Murad, usually

The Turkmen

are

i'2.

Trr/p/'/s in

I

employed ing

in agriculture,

intended

for

but chiefly in the breed-

Turkmen Argamaks,

horses.

of

Cenfral Ax'ia.

complimentary

gifts,

or

steeds

famous

are

The women manufac-

throughout Central Asia.

ture carpets, which in texture and durability are

not inferior to the Persian.

The

Kyzyl-Bash,

known

(better

English

to

readers under the familiar spelling of Kuzzilbash), or Persian prisoners, in slavery, live on the estates

The lamshido,

of their masters.

have returned to their native

between

agreement

an

of

or

Turk

country

Dost

in

virtue

^lahommed

They were improperly

and Rahim-Kuli.

tribe,

called

AflFghans.

A

small colony of Jews, numbering about ten

families,

who have immigrated from Bokhara,

a precarious livelihood by

brandy are

chiefly for their

no Arabs

nominations shilhngs, silver

pence,

Khiva coins

of

silver,

The gold

lation.

own consumption.

There

in Khiva.

The Khan which gold,

earn

dyeing, and distilling

:

his

and copper pieces are coins,

large

or

tilas,

and the

:

are of

of

in circu-

two de-

ducats, worth about twelve

and half-ducats of

coins are

own money,

six

shillings.

The

the tenga, equal to about sevenshahi,

worth

threepence.

The

MefaUic karapul,

money

seldcin varies,

eight

and during our

puis formed one tonga.

town of Khi\ a was founded,

Sakuaz.

Ill;

soLJtitu

ijF

4:3

The value

a copper coin.

pul, or

is

of Kliira.

Ciirreiicji

TJie

of

stay, forty-

mint

in

the

accordins; to Moui'a-

ivnnA.

vief,

by Rahiin Khan.

also

on the coins of Khiva, the ancient name of

Kharesm

is

retained.

In

otticial

documents, as

44

Traveh In Khiva there

and about 20,000

is

Central Asia.

in

a body of about 1,000 infantry,

who

cavalry,

commanded by

are

a hundred Min-Bashis.

In time of wax the troops receive four times

Their artillery

their ordinary pay.

is in

a deplor-

Even of the eight or ten pieces of

able condition.

cannon standing in front of the Khan's Palace,

some

mounted on

are

The revenue

not.

Government has materially

of the

This

fallen off.

and some

carriages,

partly to be attributed to the

is

migration of the Kirghizes, the secession of the

Turkmen, and a general decline of trade Customs dues forming item of revenue.

and

treasury,

in

—the

one time a considerable

at

The Mehter has charge case of a

of the

Khan

deficiency, the

borrovps of the merchants.

The Russian goods bazaars,

are

and wrought,

usually found within

Russia-leather steel,

(Yufta),

iron,

copper sheets, needles, and

cloth of inferior quahty

;

the English wares brought

from Persia are cottons and muslins. trade

is

not known,

the cast

all

Barter-

goods being paid for in

ready money.

Land and

in the

tribes

Khanat

of

Khiva

is

from time immemorial

not claimed by

any one,

is

held by families ;

that Avhich

is

given away by the

—

Astronomical Position of Khiva.

Khan

form of rewards.

the

in

attended with great

land

requires irrigation, after

first

covered with clay and black

made

Cultivation

and

expense

soil,

The Khan

productive.

trouble. it

must be

before

it

can be

often farms out his

receiving

Industrial

and manufactiiring pursuits

on in the towns, and

A

third

of

works

are carried

sojourned at

Khiva

their visit has

undergone but

in

to be found in

is

and

Danilevski

of

produce.

their

especially at Yany-Urgendj.

detailed account of the capital

the

is

The

which

grounds,

a

45

1841. little

Basiniefe,

who

The town

since

change.

During the stay of the Mission, the position of the

town was determined astronomically by Capt. whose

Mojaiski,

M.

Struve.

observations

It is as

foUows

were checked by

:

41° 22' 40" North latitude, 60°

2'

57' longitude East of Greenwich.

CHAPTER

View of Dznngaria, by Capf. Valikhanof.

(reneral

A

III.

VEIL of mystery has hitherto hung over Central

Asia,— a region pregnant with Notwithstanding

interest to

proximity

its

to

mankind.

the

outlying

possessions of two great European powers

land

and Russia,

country

still

—

the

remains in

greater

many

portion

—Engof

this

respects inaccessible

The learned Russian Geographer,

to Europeans.

Semenof, in the second volume of his translation of Carl

Ritter's

"

Erdkunde von Asien,"

at the conclusion that

explored of Africa.

to

a

greater

arrives

Central Asia has not been extent

than

the

interior

Indeed the conflicting and contradic-

tory data existing in our geographical literature

with regard to Central Asia, render this region,

if

Forlorn Condition of Central

not

altogether a

terra

47

Afsia.

incognita at

all

events a

while at the same time

difficult scientific puzzle,

our knowledge of the Central Asiatic races

very

is

confused and incomplete. Central Asia, in ization,

its

present stage of social organ-

presents a truly mournful spectacle

;

her

present stage of development being, so to speak, a sort

of pathological

without exaggeration, intersected here

and

canals

wells.

The whole

crisis. is

nothing but one vast waste,

and there by abandoned aqueducts,

The

desolate sandy plains, dotted

occasionally with ruins

and overgrown with ugly

prickly shrubs and tamarisks,

is

herds of wild asses, and hardly saigaks.

shy and timid

less

rivers occur several small oases,

poplar, elm,

and mulberry

intervenes to break the

and

there

save

here

fields

and plantations of

sional vine-yards

lazy

wandered over by

In the midst of this Sahara, along the

banks of the

by the

country,

monotony badly

;

shaded

while nothing of the scene,

cultivated

cotton, diversified

rice-

by occa-

and orchards, abandoned by the

and improvident population to the care of

Allah.

In the centre of these oases, and con-

structed above the numerous remains of ancient cities,

long since mouldering beneath the

the miserable

mud

hovels

of

a wild

soil,

stand

and bar-

48

Travels in Central Asia.

barous race, demoralized by Islamism, and reduced almost

to

idiocy

by the

political

and

religious

despotism of their native rulers on the one hand, and the arbitrary exactions of the Chinese police on the other.

Ignorance and poverty reign supreme in MaveroInnahar, the modern Bokhara, Khiva and Kokan,

which formed the richest and most enlightened region of the East in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries.

Ferganah Bokhara,

The (in

libraries of

Samarkand, Tashkend

the Khanat of Kokan), Khiva and

vi'ith

the

observatory

at

Samarkand,

have irrecoverably perished under the merciless

hand

of

perdition character.

Tartar vandahsm, all

which consigned to

knowledge save that of a rehgious

Even the monuments

of enlightenment

and

who regarded them

Towers of Babel, or

between mankind and the creative

The

bygone era

culture, have fallen victims to

the fanatical zeal of the Mullahs, in the light of

of a

minarets, schools, tombs of

as sinful rivalries spirit of Allah.

Mahometan

saints,

and the Munar tower, from which criminals were precipitated, have alone survived the general ruin.

Central Asiatic rulers of the present day no longer indite verses

and memoirs, nor do they compile

astronomical tables as their ancestors did.

These

Bridal Anni^cmeiits of

49

Bulcni.

Ihi'

pursuits are superseded by solemn daily processions to the

mosque, where they hold pious communion

with the Mullahs; and, returning home, pass the

remainder of the day in the grossest and most groveUing sensuality. of killing time

is

Another favourite method

them

afforded

the public

at

where they may witness the spectacle of

arena,

two infuriated rams,

specially trained for the pur-

pose, butting at each other.

one of the combatants

is

Here they

linger

till

disposed of with a frac-

tured skull, at which exciting

crisis

of the enter-

tainment, and in the thirst for blood

it

excites^

they administer to their generals forty blows on the

back and a similar quantum on the

The other portion

—

hara

of Central Asia

—

Little

in a condition hardly less pitiable.

is

we find,

belly.

Bok-

Here

notwithstanding the prevalence of Islamism,

religious toleration, independence of the female sex,

and no small development of municipal

institutions,

a country impoverished and desolated under the yoke of Chinese censorship

and military mandarinism.

Barbarism, despotism and decay prevail throughout the land.

It is natural, therefore, that

under such

a state of civilization, or rather in the total absence of it, the attempts of Russia and England to

become

better acquainted with their coy neighbours, should

—

50

Travels in Central Asia.

have been attended with so Uttle success hitherto,

and occasionally with such mournful In

the

part

latter

1859, accompanying a

of

caravan in the guise of a

results.

Kokan merchant,

I suc-

ceeded in reaching Kashgar, which, since the of the celebrated

Marco

Polo, in

1

visit

272, and that of

the Jesuit Goez, in 1603, had only been reached

by two Europeans

—one

a German, an officer in the

East India Company's service, whose name

unknown, and who has left an extremely itinerary

and description of

is

now

interesting

his journey ;* the other

* In a paper on the Pamir and upper course of the Oxus, read last

year before the Russian Geographical Society, by

he says

"The

M. Veninkhof,

•.

chaos of our geographical knowledge relating to the Pamir

table-land and the Bolor

was so

great, that the

celebrated geogra-

pher Zimmerman, worlcing under the superintendence of Ritter, was able to produce only a very confused and utterly incomprehensible

map

of this region.

The

connecting link was wanting;

it

was

necessary that some one sliould carry out the plan conceived by the

Russian Government in the beginning oF

and describing the country. of information has

this century,

by visiting

Fortunately, such an additional source

been found

— nay,

e\'en two,

which mutually

cor-

roborate and amplify each other, although they have nothing further in

common between them. " 1 here allude to the

gar, Tashbalyk, Bolor,

'

Travels through

Upper

Asia, from Kash-

Badakshan, Vakhan, Kokan, Turkestan, to

the Kirghiz Steppe, and back to Cashmere, through Samarkand and

Yarkend,' and to the Chinese Itinerary, translated by Klaproth, in

1S5

1,

leading from Ka.shgar to Yarkend, Northern India, Dairim,

Vakhan and Kokan, as far as the KaraThe enumeration alone of these places must, I should imagine, excite the irresistible curiosity of all wlio have made

Yabtuar, Badakshan, Bolor, tau mountains.

of European Traoellers.

Si(fferin(/s, Sfc.

the learned weit.

and much-lamented Adolphe Schlagint-

The former was beaten

bamboos

off

so unmercifully with

Kashgar, that he could not

at

horse for two days after struck

51

of

human

his

the latter had his head

;

and placed on the apex of

mid formed

sit

skulls

—

a pyra-

a custom which,

it

should seem, distinguishes the Bokharians equally

with their not more savage brethren on the coasts of Africa.

Chinese Kashgar in the province of

may be

is

one of the

Nan-lu (southern country), and

said to have enjoyed,

the geography of Asia their study.

ever since the days

These fresh sources of informa-

As regards the

tion are truly of the highest importance. it is

towns

district

'

Travels,'

to be inferred from the preface, and from certain observations

in the narrative, that the author

East India Company

;

was a German, an agent of the

despatched in the beginning of

this, ,or at

the

latter part of the last century, to purchase horses for the British

The original account forms a magnificent manuscript work, German language, accompanied by forty sketches of the country traversed. The text has also been translated into Erench in a separate manuscript, and the maps worked into one itinerary in an admirable style. The Christian name of ihis traveller George Ludwig Von appears over the preface but the surname has been

army.

in the

—

—

;

so far valuable as the physical de-

erased.

Klaproth's Itinerary

tails are

extremely circumstantial

is

;

almost every mountain

is

laid

down, and care taken to indicate whether it is wooded or snowcapped, while equal care is taken to show whether the inhabitants are

nomads or a

stationary people.

intelligibly designated,

served throughout,

Ruins, bridges, and villages are also

so that, although the same

its value, lucidity,

scale is not pre-

and minuteness are not

by deteriorated."

E 2

tliere-

5i

Travels in Central Asia.

of the Ptolemies, great repute for caravans, particularly thiough

its

Kashgar

extensive tea-trade.

stands in the same relation to Central Asia that

Kiakhta does to Siberia, and Shanghai and Canton

European nations.

to other is

famed

in the East for the glovv^ing

" chaukens,"

may

veller

number

—young women,

readily form an

charms of

whom

with

its

the tra-

alliance for a certain

of years, or for the period of his stay, be

longer or shorter.

also enjoys

It

to these attractions,

Asiatic merchants from

all

it

great celebrity

" janissary hashish."*

and

for its musicians, dancers,

Owing

This town, moreover,

Kashgar

is

the resort of

parts of the continent.

Here can be met the Thibetan with the Persian, the

Hindoo with the Volga

menians,

Jews,

Gipseys,

Tartar, Afghans,

Ar-

and runaway Siberian

Cossacks.

Of

late,

the town has obtained a notoriety of

Here human beings have

a different character.

been daily slaughtered skulls

layers

of the till

like

barn-door fowls, the

victims being

they formed towers.

disposed in regular

In the words of

a popular song, " It

is

Kashgar when hay

twelve puis the bundle

* Hashish

—an extract

is

difficult to

made from Cannabis

once stupefying and exciting properties.

keep a horse in

saliva,

—

still

which has at

Oppressions of the Chinese.

more

difficult is

The

shoulders."

former

Kashgar

it

head on

to keep the

Hodjas, rulers,

in

63 one's

descendants

of the

whose favour

several

sanguinary insurrections had latterly taken place,

do not vent their fury so much on the Chinese, on their

own

instance,

is

subjects the Kashgarians.

put to death

for

One,

as for

having served the

Chinese Government, another for yawning in the presence of his ruler, or on similar

The Chinese, when they succeed

trivial pretexts.

in

expelling the

Hodjas, notwithstanding their military inefficiency, inaugurate their triumphs by fleecing the people, destroying their cornfields, seizing the

women and

desecrating the mosques and tomb.

They then

hold a general flogging tribunal, whose operations are

conducted with great ceremony and refined

cruelty.

When

I arrived at Kashgar, I found the Chinese

reposing after the infliction of these multifarious tortures.

The road leading

town was bordered on both

to the sides

gates

of the

by a succession

of small wicker cages, in which were displayed the

heads of the natives

who had

The town, however, was state.

The

sufiered execution.

relapsing

into a quiet

native authorities, newly established

the Chinese, were riding about in the

full

by

dignity

54

Ccnfral jhia.

2'rarel.s in

of mandarin caps,

who were not them.

and castigating the pedestrians

sufficiently alert in

making way

Intercourse was resumed with

Kokan

;

for

the

Kokanian Consul had been residing more than a

month in the town, and the Bokharian and Kokanian were rapidly

caravans serais.

The

sation.

arrival of

Before

filling

empty caravan-

the

our party created a great sen-

we reached

the town the Kirghizes a Russian

had spread a rumour of the advance of

caravan, consisting of 500 camels, while in truth

only it

numbered

They had

sixty.

it

also declared that

was transporting boxes of destructive

and gave the name of " board of

projectiles,

iron " to

the

leader, in

consequence of his possessing an iron

bedstead

to this they

sian,

;

and of suspicious

the most gullible of

added that he was a Rus-

The

character.

human beings

al)surdity that he will not swallow,

extravagant the rumour, the blinder

The Chinese form no exception

Asiatic

—

there

is

his credulity.

in this

Luckily the Kokan Consul

leader of our caravan,

chants composing

it,

and

but

it

also

no

and the more

respect to

their Semitic brethren of Central Asia, as

in our case.

is

is

it

proved

knew

the

some of the mer-

was owing

to this cir-

cumstance alone that we were permitted to enter the town.

Explorations of

I shall not dwell

noyances, and

which the caravan was sub-

jected on the part of the Chinese local authorities,

tion of

my

but

travels

55

Semcjiof.

on the cross-examinations, anto

trials,

M.

shall confine

Government myself to a

aiid rela-

and stay among the Dikoka-

menni horde. TheNorthern slope of the Thian-Shanhas recently been explored from the Russian

men of,

side,

but M. Se-

a Pellow of the Imperial Russian Geogra-

phical Society,

succeeded in penetrating only as

far as the sources of the

River Narym, one of the

affluents of the Jaxartes, or Syr-Daria.

I crossed

the Thian-Shan range in two directions, and ex-

amined the neighbourhood of Kashgar and Jengiskehr, or Yany-shahr, to the sandy ridge stretch-

ing between the latter town and Yarkend.

Political

disturbances in Kokan, terminating in the expulsion

Khan, and spreading

of the former

prevented

me from visiting Yarkend,

to

Kashgar,

the largest

and

most populous town in Chinese Turkestan.

My The that

travels

first is,

regions,

may be

embraces

my

divided into two periods. route through Dzungaria,

the Semiretsk (Seven rivers), and Trans-Ili

and so

aspect of

these

to

Lake Issyk-kul.

localities

is

The physical

already well

from the excellent surveys made by the

known

officers of

Trnrch

56

hi Cc/ifrrtI Afsia.

the Siberian Staff, and they have been scientifically

explored by Golubef.

MM.

The

Schrenk, Vlangali, Semenof, and

information, however, furnished

by

these travellers has been limited to the physical

geography of the region, without touching

on

its

ethnography.

was in 1856, and

I

My

to

Dzungaria

first

expedition

first visit

took part in the

at all

organized by Colonel Khomentovski to Lake Issykkul, passing

My

travels

subsequently three months in Kuldja. in

Dzungaria occupied in

all

five

months, during which time I succeeded in traversing this region throughout

its

whole breadth and

length, from Ala-kul to the Thian-Shan. I shall only dwell here

or not noticed

by

on what has been omitted

travellers

who preceded me,

giv-

ing a short account of the ~Dz\mg&n&\i fauna, and of the antiquities

The

and inhabitants of the country.

flora of Dzungaria

is

more

or less

Alexander Schrenk having devoted its

study,

much

,

known, time to

and produced a general account of the

vegetation of this country, in an interesting article inserted in

Helmerscm and Baehr's " Beitrage zur

Kenntniss des Russischen Reiches," for 1840.

Mr. Semenof has also directed attention to the vegetation of the Thian-Shan,

and

has, I

believe,

very rich hcrhariinn collected on that range.

a

Dr.

Fauna and Flora of Bzungaria. Tatarinof compiled a

him when

list

travelling with

and which appeared

in

of plants identified

M. Kovalevski

M.

57

by

to Kuldja,

With

Vlangali's work.

regard, however, to the fauna of Dzungaria, not a single article has, so far as I

know, been published.

Lakes Ala-kul and Balkhash formed, most probably at no distant period, one

Even

at the present time,

common water basin.

during the spring inun-

dations, Ala-kul lake, according to the testimony

of the Kirghizes, communicates indirectly with that

of

Balkhash by a marshy,

saline belt

of

land.

This belt forms, in Mr. Semenof's opinion, the na-

boundary of the Kirghiz Steppe, beyond

tural

which Central Asia commences, together, with a

new

soil

As

and new

far

as

distinguished tion.

The

I

flora andL fauna.

can

perceive,

by any marked

Dzungaria

is

not

peculiarity of vegeta-

flora of the plains

is

the same as that

in the Southern portions of the

Kirghiz Steppe,

while that of the mountains resembles, with a few exceptions, ihe flora of the Altai. Zoologically, however,

certain

differences

are

perceptible.

With regard

to

the

distribution

of

animals,

Dzungaria may be divided into three zones, Alpine, Sub-Alpine, and that of the plains.

58

Travels in Central Asia.

In the mountain zone of the Dzungarian Ala-tau, are to be found

and of the Thian-shan,

mammals

indigenous to the mountainous parts of Southern

and of the Kirghiz Steppe

Siberia,

;

such as the

stag {Cervus elaphus), horned goat {Ibex Sibericus),

mountain sheep

arkaz, or

arc/ali),

Besides these, a reddish-brown wolf

&c. &c.

spoken

much resembling

very

of,

Kirghizes " chi-buri."

by the

commonest

harbatus,

species

vultur

falcon

Of

come

that

I

ffallinacea order,

bling the fefrao

never

seen

here,

rarely

canca.sict/s),

Avild-boar,

gilttiirom, Colchiciis),

Pall

:)

;

did

in con-

Kirghizes

Of the

the partridge {PerdricV

found

rail are

In the Sub-Alpine zone panther,

met with.

nor

the grey grouse (closely resem-

and the

saxatilis),

the

but the ger-falcon

;

may mention that the

they are

and

chrysaiitos),

across any nocturnal birds of prey

firmation of which assert

birds of prey

and Falco Subbuteo or

Hobby), the hawk {Astur) is

called

meleagris),

vultur

fidvus,

caudicans)

is

the vulture {Gi/paetus

is

{Falco peregrinus,

{Falco

and

a dog,

sometimes the golden eagle {Aquila

I

the wolf,

black and red, the white-breasted martin,

foxes

the

{ovis

in the

we meet with the

antelope,

Djeiran

porcupine, pheasant,

bustard

mountains.

{otis

tarda),

tiger,

{Antdope {Phasianus

turtle-dove,

—

";

Ornitliology of Dzimgaria.

{Colitmba csnas vel

59

All these are met with

tiirtur).

The woods

also in the zone of the plain.

abound

Sub-Alpine

zone

{Passerini).

The following

I noticed

Corvus dauricus ; Coracias garrula, L.

:

Merops persica, of Fish)

are

Hirundo

;

Sibericus

Pyrrhula rhodoMamys ;

Lagopoda;

A.

atrogularis

;

P

pusiUa;

speculigerus ;

A.

;

montanellus ;

;

Fr.

fmeatus

P

)

Siberica;

E. brumiceps

Accentor

;

Partis

orienfalis

Tardus

;

Fmberiza rustica ; E. Pittyornus Coccothraustes

of the varieties

Sitta Uralensis

;

Parus cyanus ; Fringilla Turdus

;

birds,

Pallas (probably the Cormis Paitderi

Alpestris

Slbericus ;

singing

some

Ticliodroma muralis, L.

;

Hirundo

arctus

with

of the

Alfaieiis

Clnchis

leuco-

Waterfowl are very scarce both in the

gaster.

mountain and desert

The wide

zones.

tracts of sand,

which extend between

Balkash and the mountain zone, are merely continuations of

the

arenaceous

Kirghiz

plains

of

Khara-kush and Khan-tau, and present no cha-ract eristic

same

saline

the

in

They

features.

patches

Kirghiz

,

are dotted

which are called

Steppe

;

*

Saiga.

"

Kaks

but nevertheless the

" Kulans " and " Saigaks,"* which

et

with the

fill

the barren

Chevre Sauvage (que Pallas appelle cervus pygargus,

M. Eversman,

antipola Saiga).

Les troupeaux de oes aiiimaux,

60

Travels in Central Asia.

waste and sands on the river Chu, never pass to

Some

the eastward of the meridian of It-Kechu. years ago a cold

season forced these animals to

migrate to the Trans-Ili region, and seek pasturage

high up in the Hi valley

;

but with the spring, they

returned to their native plains. It would, therefore,

appear that Dzungaria

is

the natural

separating the central- Asiatic "

boundary,

Kulan " from the

" Djigitai " of the Mongolian Gobi, and the limit

of distribution of the Saigak depressed wastes

—

.

.

dit-on,

nombreux dans

Le museau

.

larges

;

jusqu'a de

la

Steppes

les

;

loin I'approclie d'une

betefauveou

mais

elle

a I'odorat

le

de

celle

on aompte quel-

;

un

Saiga ressemble a un oignon

son regard n'est pas toujours pnr, vu

long

relate that the

dix mille tetes dans

des taies sur les yeux

have

natives

Th,e

The Kirghizes

since observed this.

quefois,

the antelope of .the

as also of the " Djeiran " of the

mountain table-lands.

sont singulierement

—

qu'il se

;

seul

troupeau.

Ses narines sont

forme quelquefois

plus fin, aussi sent-elle de

Thomme.

plus haute de taille que la chevre domestique

;

Elle n'est gnere

mais son poil est

doux, court et ordinairement jaune fonce. Ses comes sont petites et roides, ses '

faite

jambes minces

et

seclies

la rapidite de sa course est

;

C'est par cette faoulte et par ses hauts bonds

pour etonner.

renouvel(5s coup-sur-coup, qu'clle echappe a ses ennemis. il

est fort aisc, si

on

les

herbages dont

les

algues marines.

la

prend jeune, de

la

bien apprivoiser.

elle se nourrit, elle prefere

La

1'

Au

reste

De

touts

absinthe blanche et

chair en est succulente, mais quelquefois

on trouve des vers dans son epine. Ces vers,'_l'exces des chaleurs en ete ct les insectes qui atfaqnent enfoule I'interieur de ses naseaux, sont cause qu'aux mois de juin et de juiUet elle souffre, et ne vit plus

que dans un etat d'inquietude Kazaks.

Page

75.

visible.

.

.

.

Levsohine sur

les

Kirghiz

Exthjjation of a lohole race of Deer.

traces of deep pits,

61

which are to be found along

the base of the Dzungarian-Alataii, are those of excavations

made by Khan Djani-Bek fo}' destroying

A

the " Kulans." enticed

herd of these animals,

among them,

a horse,

said,

it is

mounted by

a

young

son of the Khan, which resulted in the death of the

The Khan, exasperated by the

boy.

loss,

had a

trench dug from Tarbagati to Hi, into which aU the

Dzungarian " Kulans " were driven

a male

;

female alone escaped beyond Balkash, and

and

left

a

warning to their posterity against entering the country that had proved so

Russian Dzungaria, as

fatal to their species.

present constituted, has

at.

exercised quite a classical influence in the historical fate

of the

Central-Asiatic

races.

Abul Ghazi

says that Abuldjor Khan, son of Japhet, founder of

the Turk tribes, roamed along the rivers Talas and

Chu, and

in the vicinity of

Chinese sources,

we know

Lake that

Issyk-kul.

all

Erom

the tribes

who

migrated from the High Gobi, were detained and settled

expelled

down

in

these

by stronger

parts,

races.

until

they were

Russian Dzungaria

presents, in reality, every convenience for a life.

The upper mountain

valleys

camping grounds during the

sultry

nomad

served as cool

summer, while

the cattle grazed at ease on the rich pasture, un-

63

Trarels in Cciifral A>
molested

by the

On

gad-fly.

the approach of

autumn, the wandering population descended to the lower ravines, where they gathered their corn

;

while in the winter they sheltered themselves in the caverns of the river banks, or

among

the hollows of

the sandy hillocks of the Balkash steppe.

was likewise found in abundance, the

Fuel

salcsaul of the

plains yielding a constant supply.

Notwithstanding the prevalence of nomad habits

among

the population, Dzungaria always possessed

a certain proportion of settled inhabitants. first historical

record of this

mode

of

life,

The

occurs in

Chinese works, relating in particular to the town of Chigu, which,

it

must be presumed, was situated

on the eastern shore of Lake Issyk-kul, and was built

by Chinese workmen

Kimmi of Ussun. mode of life prevailed

for the

Tn the Middle Ages a settled

to a great extent in these regions, particularly along

the Hi valley.

The towns

of

Almalyk (now

a

Khanaka and Kainak (which

Turkestan

village),

still exist),

and Almaty (where Fort Vernoe now

stands), were trade,

renowned

and were chief

traversed

for the

stations

by the Genoese

extent

of their

on the high road

traders proceeding

to

China, as well as by the Kipchak ambassadors on their propitiatory missions to the great

Khan.

;

Propagation and Suppression of Christianity. It

is,

many

()3

moreover, worthy of special notice that

Nestorian and monophysitic

formerly

existed

in

congregations

and that

part of Asia,

this

Syrian Jacobians, according to the evidence afforded

by the Catalan map, had a monastery, containing the relics of St. Matthias, in the vicinity of Lake Issyk-kul.

indeed, was

Christianity,

diffused here, that

it

so

widely

experienced some persecution

but by the sixteenth century there were several

Mussulman

strongly interested

not able to

me

make any

up

further researches, as the

told

Chinese,

me

last of

who

that he

Lama

temples.

Lake Issyk-kul

visited

had seen

description,

the

sedentary

though

pursuits

population

I

of

For

my own

traditions current

found

part,

evidences

a portion,

throughout

nearly

of Russian Dzungaria,

some

1820,

stumble on any traces of antiquities of

this

of the

in

in those parts a large idol

carved out of a block of stone. I did not

the buildings

to that >^eriod, escaped destruction,

mistaking them for

A

facts

but, unfortunately, I was

;

Kirghizes had demolished the that had,

These

settlements at Issyk-kul.

and was enabled

among

atory of these evidences.

I

at

of

least,

the whole to collect

the people, confirm-

hkewise obtained some

gold coins and ornaments, which

were turned up

64

Traoels in Central Asia.

among

the ruins of the ancient town of Almalyk.

Some remains

of "

Chud

"

which

spears,

I

found

the heart of Central Asia, led to the inference

in

mining was not

that

in

those ages

exclusively

practised by the Finnish race.

Among

the different races that inhabited Central

Asia during the

mention

Han

six tribes,

which were distinguished by

blue eyes and reddish hair, and his

Chinese records

dynasty,

whom

Klaproth, in

" Tableaux Historiques de L'Asie," and Abel

Remusat,

in

his

" Recherches

Tartares," classed as tribes traction.

To

Hakasis, or

these,

among

sur

les

Langues

of Hindo-Gothic exothers,

belonged the

modern Kirghizes, who excited the

astonishment of the Chinese by their strange types of face, resembling horses

At the present two peoples,

viz

:

more than anything

time, Dzungaria

is

else.

inhabited by

Buruts, or Kirghizes Proper, and

Kirghiz-Kaisaks of the Great Horde,

known under

the collective appellation of Uisuns.

Among

there

is

a tribe called the

themselves to be

the

Red

Uisuns,

who

these assert

remnants of a great and

powerful nation.

The Buruts and Uisuns, must not be confounded, races.

The

it

is

to be observed,

as they are

two

celebrated Asiatic travellers,

distinct

Meyen-

Et]inolo(/y

65

of Central Asiatic Races.

dorf and Pere Hyacinthe, strove hard, in their day, to establish this fact

but up to the present time

;

no attention has been

paid to the distinction.

Even Von Humboldt and Ritter erred on

this sub-

They imagined that the Buruts formed the

ject.

great Kaisak Horde,

and that

horde should be

this

distinguished from the Little and Middle Hordes. This, however,

was a grave mistake on the part of

those revered seers of science.

and

Kirghiz

Little

" Cossack "

family,

of the Kirghizes,

-

The

Kaisak

distinct

Great, Middle,

form

hordes

from

that

one

branch

by the Chinese,

called Buruts

and Dikokamenni by the Russians.

These two

family groups differ in language, extraction, and

customs.

From

the form of the skull, and the type of the

may be

features, the Central Asiatic races

into Persians, Mongols, are

which race.

subdivided

again

" Galcha,"

and Turks.

and

must

Tadjiks

be

classed

into

of the

with

divided

The Persians mountain

the plains,

both

of

Caucasian

the

The Tadjiks have dark complexions and

hair, while

fair

people are met

with among the

" Galcha."

The Kalmyks may be taken

as representatives of

the Mongohari type in Central Asia

;

they have

66

Travels in Central Asia.

dark hair, faces,

complexions, oblique eyes,

olive

high cheek-bones, thin

The remaining

races,

lips

and

flat

noses.

flat

such as the Mongolo-Turk,

and those of Turko-Pinnish

extraction, present

a

strange admixture of types and shades of com-

One remarks among them

plexion.

fair

men, with

the Mongolian angle of face, and oblique eyes, with a regular ever,

there

Roman

physical appearance of these tribes,

in the is

Generally speaking, how-

nose.

observable a mixture of the Caucasian race

with the Mongolian.

The second period

my

of

the upper course of the

Narym

river,

the

in

chief

which ibrmed the limit of

affluent of the Syr-Daria,

M. Semenof's

me

journey finds

me

Before

travels in this meridian.

lay stretched a real terra incognita, the mysteries

of which

had never hitherto been explored by

civi-

lized travellers.

Notwithstanding the great

risk,

I

constantly

my

travels,

especially whilst staying at Kashgar.

The

friendly

footing on which I

natives,

kept

tolerably

a

and the

learned, sions I

made

full

diary

stood with

officials,

my

the

the

and the frequent excur-

in the neighbourhood, enabled

form an accurate estimate of

Through

during

this

me

to

remarkable region.

acqiiaintance with merchants of dif-

;

Uigur Luiigaage unknown in Europe.

ferent tribes

and from various countries,

a eoUection

of itineraries with statistical,

graphical and commercial

neighbouring countries. tinually

with

the

procured

notes relating

Mixing,

and

merchants,

caravanserai, I

I

67

ethnoto

the

moreover, conliving

in

the

became accurately acquainted with

commerce of Central

Asia, the articles forming

the caravan trade, and in particular with the com-

modities most in

demand

The information consists firstly, of

at

Kashgar.

collected

my own

secondly, of oral narratives

during

my

personal observations

by individuals on whose

trustworthiness I can confidently rely; and

accounts

written officials,

and of

journey

received

lastly,

of

from merchants and

extracts from local official

documents

and books.

The

TJigur

spoken

as

at

(sometimes called Ugrian) language,

Kashgar,

is

altogether

unknown

to

European savans, who are only acquainted with the written tongue which resemblestheDjagatai. of official dialect has sprung

Akind

into existence in Little

Bokhara, owing to the prevalence of Chinese forms.

The

We

history of Little

are

more or

less

Bokhara

is

scantily

acquainted with

it

known.

up to the

time of Timur Beg or Tamerlane from Chinese cords,

re-

and subsequent to that period from Mussul-

68

Traveh in Central Jsia.

man at

,

sources, which, however, glance but cursorily

it.

The

excellent history of this reign, written in the

middle of the sixteenth century by Mirza

Muham-

med Haidar Kurekan, vizier of Abdul Rashid, Khan of Kashgar, and called " Tarikhi Rashidi" in his honour, is

remains almost entirely unknown, and

A

certainly never consulted at the present time.

Turkish translation of this work the

Academy

original

be found

of Sciences of St. Petersburg,

abounds with

mistakes,

the

University

copy

evidently

been

having

transcribed by a person ignorant of the

language.

two

parts,

The the

" Tarikhi Rashidi"

containing

first

St.

Unfortunately, the trans-

and

incomplete,

is

in

and an

copy in Persian in the library of the

Petersburg University. lation

to

is

Persian

divided into

is

a history of the

Kashgar Khans, from the time of Tomuk Temir to the reign of Rashid, a.d. 1554.

The second

par-

takes of the character of a series of memoirs, in which

the

author

describes

his

personal

adventures,

and communicates much useful geographical and ethnographical information Thibetan, Thian-Shan, and writer

which

respecting the Bolor,

Kuen-Lun

ranges.

was a scion of the celebrated Duglat played

the

same part

in

the

The

family,

" Mogul-

Documentary History of Kashgar. Ulus" or " Tchete,"* as the Maires

dtt

69 Palais in

the households of the Merovingian dynasty in the

eighth and ninth centiiries.

has been already mentioned that the history

It

by Haidar terminates with the year 1554,

written

and that

it is

country

this

known

the only historical

known

work

in Europe, where, however,

it is

by name.

only

was fortunate enough while

I

relating to

Kashgar, to

at

obtain possession of a manuscript called the " Tiaz-

Hodjaghian," which

kirai

is,

a history of the

Hodja

This remarkable composition terminates

dynasty. f

with the capture of Yarkend by the Chinese in "

1758.

This history of the Hodjas thus forms a

continuation of the Tarikhi Rashidi.

The books 1

following are I

procured at Kashgar

Gazy,"

*" Mogul

more notable

:— Bugra - Khan -

Biography of Khan,

Sultan Bugra

-

Sultan

-

Sultuk

Ulus" or "Tchete" was the easteru

at

division of the

Khans camped during the summer in Dzungaria, Aksu, Kashgar or Yarkend in the winter. The Tchete

Djagatai country

and resided

of the

-

Tazkiarai

.

some

;

its

Moguls are not to be confounded with the Mongols, Mussulmen and spoke Turkish.

as they

were

f-The Hodjas are the descendants of Mahomet; they form an hereditary priesthood, and are

much

reverenced.

70

IVavels in Central Asia.

of the Ilek

Dynasty,

who

Islamism, and introduced

graphy

of

Tugluk Timur

Djagatai Dynasty, " Mogiil-Ulus " 3.

" Rishakhat,"

Asiatic 4.

"

Law

in

Kashgar.

Tugluk - Timur - Khan, "

" Tazkirai

2.

it

embraced

first

who was

Khans

to

Khan the

Bio-

of

first

the

of the

embrace Islamism.

or Information respecting the

Teachers and Saints.

Abu Muslim

Murazi," a heroic novel, re-

markable on account of the many local torical traditions

which are introduced

in

hisit.

CHAPTER

IV.

Sketches of Travels in Dzungaria, hy Capt. Valikhanof,

My

travels in

Dzungaria commenced on the 28th of

May, 1856, when

I joined a trading

was then encamped at

caravan whica

in the settlement of

Karamul,

a distance of twenty miles from the town of Kopal.

This caravan had come from Semipalatinsk, and

belonged to Kokan and Bokhara merchants. consisted of eight travelling

tents,

It

one hundred

camels, sixty -five horses, thirty-four attendants, and

merchandise to the value of £3,000. to the party for

a

I

was known

by the name of Alimbai, and passed

relative of the

caravan-Bashi, the worthy

Mussabai.

We day.

did not, however, set out

till

the following

The weather was fine, and favoured our

jour-

72

Traoels in Central Aai ua.

ney, the

first

part of which lay along the picket

road to the out-post of Altyn-Emel, through the

among

beautiful valleys nestling

the

Ala

-

Tau.

the lower spurs of

a

After traversing

distance

of

came

to

seventeen miles daily, the caravan usually

a halt in the cool of the evening, and pitched its

under the shade of a high poplar or

tents

silver-

leavedwild olive (Djigda),on thebrink of some brawling rivulet.

A lively party

place round the blazing

smoked

their kalian,

citing passages

formed

make

and beguiled the time by

chiefs

in the vicinity,

while their more distinguished

sale,

approached with the

caravan

the richest ?"

suite,

On

this,

to tea, biscuits,

receiving

accompanied

inquiry, "

Who is

each owner of a tent, in his dignitaries of the horde

and dried

away about

soliciting a present,

of

They would approach

making the

turn, usually treated the

hizes stowed

view

with great ceremony,

by a numerous

would

appearance with sheep, which

a " bazarlyk," or present. the

re-

from Hafiz.

their

they offered for

each halting-

while the Bokharians

fire,

The Kirghizes, encamped likewise

at

fruit,

which the Kirg-

their persons, and, after

would speedily withdraw. The

caravan was once honoured with the presence of the Sultan Djungazy, ruler of the Djalair tribe, and

Visit

from

his adlatus or resident,

who

is

on account of the Sultan's imbecihty.

Djungazy surprised us by the conduct.

He

hizes only

on extreme

gait of a fat

eccentricity of his

entered the tent, used by the Kirg-

goose,

official

occasions, with the

took the seat of honour, and

assumed an expression of everybody observing the suddenly

attached to his per-

Mentor by the Russian

son in the capacity of authorities,

73

the Sultan.

lifting his

profound meditation,

strictest silence.

Then,

head, and casting a penetrat-

ing glance around, he exclaimed in rhyme, " Djalairs

many

have

thoughts."

He had

sheep, Djangazy has

spoken, and

his Buddhistic immobility.

The

many

again resumed

In the meantime, the

and other Kirghizes opened a con-

Sultan's adlatus

versation with us.

They described

all

the parti-

culars relating to the Governor- General's visit to

Fort Vernoe, repeated the words he addressed to the Kirghiz people, and imitated the gestures with

which he accompanied them. to instruct

them

They entreated us duties

and their

Our bullocks and

horses are

as to their legal

legal rights, saying,

"

taken for picket-labour, and rarely returned Cossacks

know

with impunity. as the

;

the

the laws, and persecute and rob us

We

cannot resist them by force,

Cossacks are servants of the Tsar, and for

7

Travels in Central Asia.

J-

any complaint against them we should be sent to the perforated

was once made about three mysteriously

two

;

God

officials lived

a whole winter in

me

forbid that

we should

the guilty ones, or I will twist

the shape of a goat's horn.

and

murder of the

The

lightning.'"

I,'

says he,

We never

!

Even now the Governor

saw them.

great stir

of them, who disappeared

Karatal, calling on us to confess to the

Cossacks.

A

mountains (mines.)

off

'

Find

all

into

says,

you

am thunder

'

Sultan, meanwhile, rolled his

eyes about in a curious manner, giving occasional

utterance to rhymes in couplets.

After partaking

of the customary pilaff, our guests retired, a strange scent of

leaving

almonds behind them.

Crossing the Ala-tau by the Djaksy Altyn-Emel Pass, which easterly

is

swept in autumn by strong north-

winds,

called

locally

those prevalent on the shore of

" ebe,"

similar to

Lake Ala-Kul, the

caravan entered upon a bare siliceous tract, intersected by a valley, from the ridge of which the Hi

was occasionally

visible in the distance.

We

pro-

ceeded in the direction of the ferry, kept by Kirghizes, over this river,

and passed the night

spring in a valley of the Kalkan ally

swarmed with

other reptiles

;

for

hills,

at a

which hter-

snakes, tarantulse, scorpions, and a long time

after

I

could not

Passage of tke River Hi. shake

the recollection of that horrible resting-

off

place.

75

We passed

a sleepless night,

and resumed

our journey at break of day.

The caravan was two days on

flat^bottomed

crazy

rotten craft

crossing the river Hi

The wretched,

boats.

was towed across by

horses,

actually

swimming, and, of course, exercising but

power over the movements of the boat

little

while the

;

bargemen were busily employed baling out the water with pails

!

After celebrating the safe transit

of the Hi under such disadvantages, the

the

clearing

Suguty, Taraigir, and

caravan,

Utch-Merke

passes, reached the Kar-kara Valley, having made

altogether

seventeen forced marches.

found some Kirghizes of the Aitbuzum dispersed ourselves

but

we found

tation.

among

Here we tribe,

and

their " auls " for barter;

the Kirghizes in a state of great agi-

Prior to our arrival a sanguinary struggle

had occurred on the banks of the Kar-kara, between the branches of the Kisyl-Burk and Aitbuzum tribes.

They were expecting the appearance of a

Russian

official

the

affair

who had been

sent to investigate

by demand of the Kisyl-B ark

party,

and

were contemplating a hasty migration in case of an adverse decision.

And

so

it

happened.

On

the 4th of August the

7G

Travels in Central Asia.

Kirghizes began to decamp in a hurry, and towards

evening not one of them remained on the shores of

own

the Kegen, our

on the

the deserted Kirghiz camp.

site of

position

tents alone rearing their heads

Our

The caravan-Bashi,

was an awkward one.

and some of our more experienced men, considered that the

900 sheep we had received

in barter from

the Kirghizes were insufficient, and they, therefore,

determined to proceed to the Dikokamenni horde,

whose encampment we reached accordingly on the 6th August.

We

Salmeke

sept,

Manap-Karatch, surnamed the Big,

who was

well-disposed towards the Russian Govern-

were met by the chief of the

ment, and yearned for the rank of Yesawul of Cossacks.

He

well merited the epithet

whichever he might consider

it),

cause, without exaggeration,

with the brim at the

slit

in

back of

title,

of " the Big," be-

he was as

fat

Karatch wore a peaked hat of white

bullock.

and

(or

as

a

felt,

two places over the forehead his head, besides

a

wadded

" Khalat," or long robe of striped cotton material,

ornamented with three green breast.

His

feet

was arrayed

khalat was of a

cords over the

were cased in clamsily-shaped

boots of red leather, with large

son

silk

wooden

in a similar

more

heels.

His

manner, only his

brilliant colour,

while the

CostiiDie

collar

and

of

sleeves

(I

Kirghiz Spear iiinii.

were faced with

suite

was nothing

ants,

armed with cudgels and

larly noticed the

1)ut a raggx'd

velvet.

The

regiment of attendspears.

I

particu-

costume of one red-haired spear-

A

Krr;Gillz.

man, which consisted simply ments and a

77

felt

mantle

;

of his

nether integu-

while another, reo-ardless

of the hot weather, wore a heavy sheep-skin

and fur head-piece.

The

coat

Kirgluzes spoke with

78

Travels in Central Asia.

great rapidity

and

their

mouths with

The

shrillness,

and continually

filled

snufF.

Upper Kegen

valley of the

very high,

lies

and presents excellent pasturages, but the shores of

some

the stream are swampy, forming, in hillocky morasses, called " Saz

"

places,

the three con-

;

tiguous highland valleys of Kegen, Tekes, and Kar-

kara are the only

the whole of Dzun-

localities in

garia which have a rich black loam, with luxuriant vegetation.

" Kibitkas,"

The

or

ninth

the

of

tents,

Kalmyks were spread over the

division

of

" Saz."

These Kalmyks had previously been en-

camped

in the vicinity

We

abandoned.

of a Chinese

of snow,

mine,

now

next erected our tents on the

banks of the Chalkuder.

was a fall

great

During the night there

which the wind whirled round and

drove in clouds in every direction, just as in the

depth of winter cold,

;

the weather, too, was extremely

and the snow-drift continuing

completely cut

off,

for the

for

time being,

cation with the Kirghizes.

On

all

two days,

communi-

the third day the

heads of the Kirghiz tribes arrived at the camping-

ground of the caravan, and took us with them their several auls.

razyk,

fell

to

I

and

my

the share of the

companion, aiil

to

Mam-

of Bai-Bursuk,

;

Interior of a Kirghiz Bwellviy.

chief of the small aiil

we proceeded

whom we assisted

Kydyk

visit

were received with

off

gaining

me

to our host,

by

tribe.

pay a

to

On

all

79

due ceremony, and

our horses at the door of the tent,

which we were invited

The

to enter.

tent

was

in

a sadly dilapidated state, and begrimed with smoke.

Bursuk occupied the facing the door-way

;

seat of

honour by the hearth,

his wife

and two daughters,

with several Kirghiz women, were seated on

Nearer to the

skins to the right of the entrance.

door were placed cauldrons,

and other domestic

bowls, platters

pails,

On

utensils.

calf,

the

left

was a

Kirghiz occupied in cobbling boots of red leather

and on the felt,

floor

wool, and

a piece of

were strewed chips, fragments of

gnawed

We

bones.

fancifully-stitched

felt,

were seated on which

is

the

ordinary apology for a carpet

among

Our

though he frequently

host

was extremely

civil,

the Kirghizes.

cursed the tombs of our fathers, apparently only

from force of habit.

The

would have been equally lation not

her gums.

amiability of his wife

expressive,

had her articu-

been impeded by the snuff that clogged

Bursuk ordered some

"

kumis "

for us,

on whicb our gentle hostess pulled out a small, but well-filled skin fully

of this refreshing beverage,

wrapped up

in an old khalat,

care-

and produced

80

Travels in Central Asia.

some wooden bowls. carefully

These, she and her daughters

cleansed of the adhering layers of im-

with their fingers, which they afterwards

purity

sucked

unmistakeable

with

children, nine

in

Bursuk's

relish.

number, handed us the kumis,

and

I drank it with the best grace I

this

was by no means new

to

All

could.

In 1856 I had

me.

been entertained in the tent of the high " manap,"

On

and wealthiest Kirghiz, Burambai. sion,

although

we

that occa-

squatted on the carpet, and our

host on a Bokharian blanket, his wife reposed, as the

We drank kumis out

lady did here, on a calf-skin. of porcelain cups

but the

;

salt tea, in

default of

another vessel, was boiled in a cast-iron washingbasin,

and the general equipment

ment was the same

in all

of his establish-

essentials

that

as

of

Bursuk. Uncleanliness

by

in short, elevated into a virtue

is,

Kirghizes,

the

They consider

it

and

great

as

domestic utensils as to over the tether of their

To

pm'ify their bowls

scare

hallowed by

is

away abundance.

spit

a sin

to

on the

tradition.

wash fire,

their

or step

mares when being milked to invoke misfortune,

The men

and

are not in the

habit of changing their linen, but continue to wear it

until

it

falls

off their bodies

The hunting

for

Filthij

—a

Habits of the Kirffhises

81

Feasf.

vermin on each other's persons affords them agreeable pastime for their leisure hours, without which

they would be at a sad loss for amusement, the ladies, especially, shewing a great predilection for this

savoury occupation. ing

is

The

Kirghiz mourn-

ritual of

very simple, and consists of total abstinence

from ablution or change of raiment for

The

hospitality

of

a

whole year.

our entertainment. sence,

totally

bleatings, after

This was

order.

The

ghizes

became

poor

the

animal's

of

which a

was kindled, the tripod

fire

apathetic countenances

much

for

regardless

at once

animated

the family bustled around the zeal, so

lamb

done in our pre-

and the cauldron placed over

adjusted,

was

Burnt Patriarch

the

further displayed in the slaughter of a

;

fire

in

it

of the

due Kir-

members of

the

with augmented

so as to hinder each other in the

culinary operations of the hour, and finally quarrelled

among themselves. Hungry dogs with savage

keenly-whetted appetites, licked and snuffed

ground where the lamb had been

killed,

at the

while

troops of Kirghizes, in expectation of a mouthful, the tent, and a native

gradually

filled

panying

himself

monotonous recurring

ditty,

word

on

a

artist,

" balalaika,"

consisting

" dait, dait."

of

At

the last

accomsang

a

constantly

the cauldron

82

Travels in Central Asia.

was taken

and a large

off the fire

platter placed

before us with mutton heaped into a pile, the whole

surmounted by the

We

morsel.

sacrum as the most esteemed

os

meat dipping

ate the

it

into the salt

broth.

Early on the following day Bursuk appeared to breakfast with us

he carne again to dinner and

;

to tea in the evening, while our supper

graced by his presence. each suceeding day.

'

was

also

he did regularly

This

His children followed

his ex-

ample, and his relatives exhibited such greediness that Ave were obliged to hide everything eatable

from them voured

;

all

one of these gluttons had already de-

my

entertainment

sealing-wax

Bursuk

of

!

and

Apparently

the

family

was

his

considered by the party most interested a bounden

duty on

consists of milk

and fallen

sion the Kadyks,

pleasure auls.

The only food

oiir part.

of

Sartas

caravan

entertaining a

among

their

This was apparent from the behaviour of

of great importance.

^vislled

Before this occa-

cattle.

we remarked, had never had the

Bursuk, who since our

fatlier

of the Kirghizes

be defiled

!"

had assumed an

arrival,

"

May

the

mouth

would he exclaim

air

of your

to those he

" I

have

(merchants,) living with me," &t. &c.

We

to

impress

with

his

dignity,

Jlnbifs

were likewise

and

Ciixtomx of

visited

llir

Kirf)lii~cK.

by matrons and maiduns,

brought us boiled mutton and "kumis" in

])ails,

Avitli

cheese and

\

this

give

we weru them

K

Inittei'.

ri.-i.nr/

(

ti:

In

S3 a\'1io

or " airau" rctuiii

for

j,

obligrd, accoiding to local custom, to

presents.

of the world and

a

My

companion, quite a man

dovotixl ailinircr of the fair sex.

84

Travels in Central Asia.

was delighted

He

amiable.

opportunity for playing the

at this

treated

them presents

them

made

to dried fruit,

of cotton dresses, plush, fowls, &c.,

and paid them extravagant compliments, which, however, they could not appreciate.

Sometimes of an evening the daughter of our host organized

On

little

parties in

my companion's tent.

such occasions young men, women, and

collected there, the

women on

the

from her

seat,

most favour

sitting

on one side and the

The games would then

other.

One

commence.

men

girls

of the girls rising coquettishly

would choose the swain who found

in her eyes,

The lucky youth

vs^as

by a wave of her

kerchief.

thereupon obliged to perform

some dexterous feat or sing a song.

If

his

per-

formance were creditable, his partner would reward

him with remissness

a hearty kiss

;

while on the other hand

was punished by a

severe beating.

Singing was generally preferred to physical exercises,

though probably not

The process

knee and sings lay

as follows

is

in

for sesthetical reasons. :

the singer

sits

on one

an unnatural tone of voice,

being usually of an amorous character.

production of the efforts

:

his eyes

trils dilate,

and

first

his

The

note costs the Kirghiz great

become bloodshot, and a

'

his

few hollow somids escape

nos-

at first

Prim if be Relations between he pitches the proper key.

until

85

the Sexes.

Central Asiatic

wits compare the singing of the Kirghizes, and the first

On

introductory notes, to the bray of a donkey.

up and

finishing his song, the performer gets

places himself back to back with his partner, then their necks

skilfully twisting

each other.

The

the Kirghizes,

relation

round they

between the

sexes,

salute

among

altogether on a very primitive

is

footing; mothers, fathers, and brothers regard any

breach of morality with great leniency, and husbands even encourage their friends to close intimacy with their wives.

My

caravan friends did not I believe

neglect this custom, particularly as the Buruts had

many

attractive

women among

them.

Like

the

Kirghizes, the Buruts are strangers to jealousy, a

common

feeling so this is

The reason

to the Asiatic.

of

that Islamite notions of chastity have not

yet spread

among

this

people.

The Buruts

themselves Mussulmen, and yet do not

Mahomet

was.

conducted

call

know who

Their weddings and funerals are

after

Shaman

fashion, but if they can

secure the services of a scholarly Central Asiatic or Tartar, prayers are read.

I

can safely assert that

throughout the whole country, from Issyk-Kul to

Badakhshan, there this tribe

who can

is

not a single

read.

individual

of

so

Trarc/s in Central A>iia.

The Kirghizes drink a Kumis, and

from

which they

spirit

which

with

they intoxicate

The con-

themselves on every available occasion.

The

erect

to

Horde, was the same thirty years

ago.

proceeded

however,

Government,

Russian

the

of

dition of the Ri\ssian Kirghizes, or those

^iiddle

distil

mosques and appointed Tartar Mullahs,

under whose influence the Middle Horde Kirghizes do not

now

natical Dervishes.

period

of

prayer

They and

It

would be

would be more

days'

beneficial to the Kirghiz Steppe, \^•itll

contemporary Tartar

Russia constitute a totally

in

world, having nothing in

perfect religious civilization

in a transition state,

scattered throughout felt

it

The Tartars Eastern

common with the

interests

among

is

and the Tartars who are are

making

must be observed that the

from the Tartars the

Horde

great Kirghiz

their influence

more and more with each succeeding

It

with

separate

The

of Russian nationality.

now

while

decide which

strong anti-progressive tendencies.

its

fast,

fa-

the

seclusive system of

difficult to

the former state of ignorance toleration, or

observe

regularly thirty

some have even introduced the the harem.

the most

yield in fanaticism to

less

farther

year.

we remove

fanaticism do

the Kirghizes, notwithstanding

we

find

that they

Predatory Hahits of Btirsuk. live

here under

and

rulers,

the influence of Central Asiatic

a country usually regarded as the

in

The Bokhara Mullahs

very focus of bigotry. in

my

87

much

opinion,

less to

are,

be dreaded than their

Tartar brethren.

We

passed nearly a month

menni Horde, roaming with

it

from place

and carrying on a constant barter

Our and

"Manaps"

;

he

in sheep.

vifas,

(the Kirghiz aristocracy),

no part

therefore took

tribes

to place,

did not. as already stated, belong to

host

the class of

the Dikoka-

vi^ith

in the councils of the

furthermore, very poor.

however, was aiming

Bursiik,

at securing the footing of

a

hereditary chief, and carried on a constant depre-

datory warfare, or " Baranta," with aristocrats,

obliged,

and

in order

from

positions

the

During the whole kept

the Kirghiz

himself.

He

was

consequently, to choose the most secure

inaccessible

distance

to enrich

all

close

in

for

general

his

auls,

camping

at

a

grounds.

of our sojourn

with him, he

the unapproachable

ravines of the

Muzart mountains, or among the swamps of the

Upper Tekes.

He

did not venture from his retreat

even when the other tents in the

tribes,

having pitched their

broad valley of the Kegen, made

general preparations for solemnly celebrating the

88

Travels in Central Asia.

nineteenth day after the death of the

My

Burambai.

and

host

High Manap,

nine

his

were

sons

In

during this time engaged in horse steahng.

Manap

1855, Burambai, High with 10,000

Begu

of the

took

of his followers,

tribe,

the oath

of

In the spring of the follow-

allegiance to Russia.

ing year. Colonel Khomentovski, with a company of

Cossacks, was despatched,

Kirghizes,

for

acquainted

the purpose

country they occupied.

of

and

them,

with

by

This

petition

of the

becoming

better

surveying

for

northern

part

Russian expe-

first

two months

dition succeeded in the course of

surveying the

of

the

Issyk-Kul,

in

and

constructed a map, on a scale of two versts, of the locality

along

northern

its

shore

to

the

River

Aksu, and along the southern, to the River Zaiiku.

Accompanying the aul,

and

where

I gathered

drew up

Kirghizes.

I

a

and during

traditions,

memoir on the Dikokamenni

tribes,

my

camping grounds origin

some remarkable

subsequently came into contact with

Buruts of other

The

expedition, I visited Burambai's

Sarabaguishes and Saltus,

present journey as far as

explored

their

Kashgar.

and history of

the

Dikokamenni

Kirghizes remain matter of dispute to the present day.

The majority

of sacuns,

who have

directed

Speculation as to the Origin of the Kirghizes.

89

their attention to the elaboration of these questions

from Chinese and Eastern

historical records, are,

however, of opinion that the modern Dikokamenni

Buruts are the Kirghizes of the Enisei, deported on the downfall of the Dzungarians in the last century to

new camping

on the strength of

history

Yuan

to be identical with the

dynasty,

dynasty.

Rashid

the

of

this,

Tau

Khakasis of the of the

grounds, and consider them,

Mongols,

and Kelikidzes Eddin,

classes

his

in

Kirghizes

the

with the people of the forests of Southern Siberia,

who

inhabited the region of Barkhudjin-Tukum.

The

appellation

of

Kem-Kemjut, which he and

Kem

Albu-Gazi give the Kirghizes, suggests the (Enisei)

and the River Kemchuk,

which they

as the locality in

On

probably then sojourned.

conquest of Siberia by the Russians,

the

the latter

found Kirghizes on the Abakan and Yuz, and maintained an obstinate warfare with them about the end of the seventeenth and beginning of the eighteenth century. this

people

annals.

From

suddenly

Fischer

is

that time the

disappears

of

opinion

name

of

from Siberian

that

they

were

removed by the Khan-Taidsis of Dzungaria, and, relying on

tory

must

mere hearsay, considers lie

on the

their

new

frontiers of Thibet

terri-

and the

90

Travels in Central Asia.

Hindu Cush.

M. Levshin,

in

work on the

his

Kirghiz-Kaisaks, remarks that the Swedish officers

were the

and

to note this event in history,

first

maintains that their migration was the result of a special

stipulation

Government Chinese

and

with

But

Khan-Taidsis.

the

Russian

the

the Dikokamenni Kirghizes,

call

assert

on the part of

that

they

the

Buruts,

migrated to their present

encampments from the Kuen-Lun, where they

lived

under the name of Bulu, or Pulu, during the Tau dynasty.

Pere

tinguish the

Hyacinthe was the

first

to

dis-

Siberia from

Kirghizes of Southern

the modern Buruts, assuming the latter to be a

Turkish

and calhng them Kerghizes,

tribe,

tradistinction

from the

Ritter, in his

first.

in con-

" Erd-

kunde von Asien," unwarrantably confounds the Dikokamenni Kirghiz Buruts with the KirghizKaisaks,

and

takes

them

all

for

Khakasis, migrated from the Enisei,

Kilidsis

whom,

or

follow-

ing Klaproth and A. Remusat, he classes with the

Indo-Germanic family

—Mahomedanized

quence of an amalgamation of

With regard

in conse-

tribes.

to the deportation of the Kirghizes

from Russian-Siberia

in the seventeenth century,

Ritter says that, harassed

by

their neighbours, they

joined their kindred tribe, the Buruts, in Eastern

Traditions amon(/ the Kirghizes.

91

Turkestan, and in the Steppe to the south-east of the Irtysh

;

the original

he consequently considers the Buruts

nomads

of the country they at present

occupy.

Such

is

ing the

the present state of the inquiry regardof the contemporary

origin

Dikokamenni

Kirghizes.

In order,

if possible,

some additional

to throw

my

attention to

the study of local popular traditions,

and found

name

of " Diko-

light

on the question,

that the people

I directed

known under

kamenni, Black Kirghizes,"

the call

Kirghizes, or, as they pronounce appellation of Buruts, given

and Chinese, also

is

altogether

ascertained that

Adjan mountains

The

chi.

Prom

effect

unknown

to them.

I

the Kirghizes consider the

it

kamenni Kirghizes

Southern

among them, although

there

that in their wanderings from

the Black

far as

and Hangai, and eastwards this

The

them by the Kalmyks

South to North, they extended as Irtysh, Altai

" Krgyz."

a migration from

of

tradition

one to the

it,

as the cradle of their race.

Siberia does not exist is

themselves simply

to

Urum-

must be inferred that the Dikoare identical with

the

Enisei

Akazis or Kirghizes, pronounced KhUikizi by the Chinese.

A Chinese

writer,

contemporary with the

92

Travels in Central Asia.

Mongols, asserts that Khilikizi, in the language of the natives, signifies forty maidens, from Kyrk, forty

and Kyz, maiden or

girl.

This etymology

is

also

adopted by the present Kirghizes in explanation of their

name.

I further

imagine that the Kirghizes

spread themselves eastwards, to the limits of their present territory, at a very remote period, which conjecture traditions.

is

further borne out

by

existing popular

when

Their migrations only ceased

the powerful domination of the Oirats and Dzungarians sprang into existence.

The opinion

enter-

tained by the learned world, that the deportation of the Kirghizes in the beginning of the eighteenth century, from the Enisei to the Thian-Shan,

effected

was

entirely

by the Dzungarians, and, with the approval

of the Russian Government,

is

not quite consisteiit

with the additional facts I have obtained.

In the

" Tarikhi Rashidi," or History of Kashgar, I found

evidence that the Kirghizes (Buruts) so early as the latter part of the fifteenth centin-y,

were roaming the

mountains near Adjan, while, during the

life

historian, in a.d.

1520, they wandered as

Lake Issyk-Kul.

In

of the far as

the Archives of the Central

Office of the Siberian Kirghizes at

Omsk,

there

is

a very curious document or " Act," relating to the

Khirgiz migration from Siberia in the

summer

of

Ori(/inal Coimiry

of the K'lrgldzes {continued^

In this ' Act "

1746.

men, with

93

mentioned that twelve

it is

and

their wives

.

children, asserting

them-

be Kirghizes, made their appearance at

selves to

Ust-Kamenogorsk, and declared that they formerly lived in Siberia between the towns of

Tomsk and

town of Krasnoyarsk

Eniseisk, opposite the

Steppe, and on the river

in the

White Yus, under the

sway of Tambyn-Batyr-Datji,

also

paying a tribute

in furs into the treasury of

His Imperial Majesty.

"

said they, " during the

Mfty years or more ago,"

life-time of the present

three

Kalmyk

leaders,

Khan,Taishi-Galdan-Cheren,

named Dunar, Sandyk, and

Chinbin, at the head of 500 armed followers, at-

'

when

us

tacked

smokes

'

numbering

.

three

thousand

on our camping-grounds, and carried us

away with the son

of our former

Khan-Tambyn-

Batyr-Datji-Chainish, to the Ziingar territory, ulti-

mately driving us to Urga, where we have remained ever

since,

paying

These strangers

tribute to

stated,

Galdan-Cheren."

furthermore,

that their

kindred and other Kirghiz Kalmyks lived in the Sagai Steppe, and were tributary to His Imperial Majesty.

In the following year,

Kirghiz Kalmyks,

had succeeded garia,

who were

viz.

1747, two

captured after they

in effecting their escape

from Dzun-

corroborated the above statement, adding

94

Travels in Ceiitrnl /kin.

that

two

leaders,

Kharta-Idash and his brother

Emgen-Mergen, camped about or

It

district.

Siberian

will

the Sagai volost

in

from

appear

this

that

Kirghizes, from their proximity

the

to the

Dzungarians and Uriankhaitsis, had become extensively intermingled with the

Mongols, and that the

Dzungarians did not carry away the whole

tribe,

but only to the extent of 3,000 kibitkas or

tents.

These most

probably became thoroughly amal-

gamated with the Dzungarians, and might have formed a Kalmyk tribe of Kirghizes, thus leading Pere Hyacinthe to suppose that

all

Kirghizes were of Mongolian origin.

then

what became

arises,

ghizes, a people powerful

the

Siberian

The question

of these Siberian Kir-

enough, during a whole

century, to have kept the towns of Siberia in a state of constant alarm

by

their inroads,

and to have

struggled with such formidable neighbours as the

Dzungarians, and Altyn In reply to

this, I

tion of their

Khan

of the Uriankhaitsis

would surmise that the

?

oblitera-

name might have been produced by

the same cause that has reduced the once powerful territory of the

Golden Khans, who received tribute

from the Kirghizes, to This formidable State

is

its

present insignificance.

now known

tributary State, on account of

its

as

the duo-

paying homage

Importance of an Etlmograpldc Inquiry. both, to Russia

and China.

known

Siberians give separate

all

that the

It

is,

95

besides, well

names

to

non-native tribes, and that the remnants of the

nomad

Siberian Kirghizes follow their their old grounds, but

Men

instincts

on

under new names.

of science have long since perceived the

importance for Ethnography of a study of such relics

of

national

illustrate

toms.

Now

marked

morals,

national

for antiquity

a

literature,

it

as

most

truthfully

and

manners,

so happens that profound regard

and an abundance of traditions forms

and

characteristic

nomadic races of Central tions are devoutly preserved tribes, either in the

heritage

Asia.

by the

These elders

in

ballads

the tradi-

of the

which are

perpetuated by a special class of bards.

words and locutions now

The

of

form of ancestral reminiscences

and genealogical legends, or

antiquity.

cus-

prove their

obsolete,

account

traditional

Many

of

Queen

Gulmalika having been the ancestress of Genghis

Khan

prevails

among

all

the Tartar tribes.

Thierry,

in his " Histoire d' Attila et de ses Successeurs,"

quotes this as a legend of Attila and the Huns.

The

story

Kirghizes

the

Dikokamenni

from a red grey- hound

(kizin-taizan),

of

the

origin

of

and a certain queen with her

forty

handmaidens.

Tran'h

96 of ancient

is

date.

Central

in

A

some

from

m. feature

characteristic

Central Asiatic traditions origin

./-s-

in

the derivation of their

is

According

animal.

the

to

testimony of Chinese history, the Goa-Gui (Kaotsche),

known

otherwise

people, sprang from a wolf

One

princess.

daughters

of

such

of

the

Chili

and a beautiful

Hun

Hun

the

Tele

or

as

had

princes

uncommon

beauty that

two he

determined not to marry them to any ordinary Building

mortals.

a

habited wilderness, he

them

left

" I pray Heaven to take

in

it,

old wolf,

who

exclaiming,

The youngest

them."

encouraged the

princess falling a prey to ennui, attentions of an

an unin-

tower in

high

whole year,

for a

night and day, prowled around the tower, and at last

made

princess,

his

lair

at

the

notwithstanding

foot

the

of

it

;

entreaties

till

the

of

her

eldest sister, married the wolf.

The Tugus

(called Dulgasses

by Pere Hyacinthe),

professed to derive their origin from a she-wolf,

and the Tufans (Thibetians) from a dog.

The

Chinese assert that Batachi, hereditary chief of the

Mongol Khans, was the son white hind,

(

"

Memoires

Klaproth, p. 204).

of a blue wolf

relatifs

a

1'

and

Asie," par

In like manner some of the

red-skinned tribes of North America pretend to be

Evidence of Genealogical Traditions.

descended evident,

from

beavers,

tradition in Central Asia,

&c.

tortoises,

from these instances, that

and even

97

this

It

is

kind of

in America,

is

the most ancient, and even seems to be regarded as a descent to

be proud

exalted tone of

The out-spoken

of.

yet

the Kirghiz legends, considered

indecent by the present generation of Kirghiz,

is

a strong proof that they have descended in their

The

original form.

tradition of the origin of the

ninety-nine Kipchak branches has been 'preserved

among

the Uzbeks and Kaisaks in such an indeli-

cate shape,

that

be possible

to present

it is

doubtful whether it

it

will

ever

to the general reader.

Genealogical traditions form a most important

The

section of their legendary lore.

relation of

one tribe to another depends on the degree of affinity

which

exists

between the

chiefs.

The

hereditary superiority of one branch over the other is

determined

by the right

of

primogeniture.

Traditions of this nature are in so far important, as they represent the extraction of the people,

the composition

of

society.

It

appears

and from

the genealogical tables of the Kaisaks, Usbeks, and

Nagais, that they are a medley of different Turkish

and Mongol

tribes,

formed

after the decline of the

Golden and Djagatai Hordes.

The genealogy of

;

98

Travels

Central Jsiu.

in

the Buruts indicates at the same time principal portion of the people

Turkish " Kirghiz "

two

is

that the

composed

of the

ultimately

tribe, recruited

by

alien sections.

Of

the

these,

Naimans and Kitais nationality

The

is

common

Kipchaks,

the

whose claims

;

expressed

is

having had one

who

comprises

first

Kirghiz

to

by

genealogically

chief placed

their

over them,

stated to have been the son of Kirghiz-Bai. or second section, though claiming

Tchilik,

a

common

is

not acknowledged by the other tribes.

division

in the

ancestor

Kirghiz-Bai,

son of

A

third

composed of the present Kirghizes,

is

On and

two wings,

divided into

In

Sol.

the

present generation these are split up into numerous

each

branches,

branch

being

again

and again

subdivided.

The

third

class

of tradition

formed of the

is

so-called " tales of olden times," or " Djir"

of the

Nogais.

These are in vogue among the Kaisaks,

Uzbeks,

Nogais and Kirghizes.

sumed all

the

that the

nomad

fourteenth,

is to

be pre-

Nogais comprehended originally

tribes of Central Asia,

Tartar language, extraction.

It

who were

The Nogai fifteenth

speaking the

of Tm'kish

and Mongol

traditions relate

and

sixteenth

to the

centuries

Heroic Tradilionn of they

and

rhyme,

head

the tions

tone

epic

interesting,

the

while

they

philosophical

mode are

of

These

and life

tradi-

the

of

the

of

ideas,

of those primitive

equally

and are

respects,

in

be classed under

expressions

as

mind,

native

99

sung

character,

should therefore

customs, morals, and ages,

Klrglihrs.

of colloquial literature.

are

of

an

of

are

f/ie

remarkable

in

devoid

of

not

historical interest.

Among the

Kaisaks, Uzbeks, and Nogais,

trace their origin

Horde,

are

from the Golden and Djagatai

preserved

founded on the

These are

several

exploits

Ir-Kokcha,

Edigei,

who

all historical

the

of

Urak,

Chor

personages

of Tamerlane's generals, and for his victory over Vitort

poetical

is

fables,

horde-heroes,

and

others.

Edigei was one

:

known

history

in

on the Vorskla

Urak, a

;

descendant of Edigei, was, according to tradition, a prisoner in Russia, cess,

on which point, however, there

evidence

;

mention

Chronicles

follows

:

"

is

made

attack

They

of

is

no

historical

the

reference

to

great

Tchora was a Tartar

statui'e

prince,,

Tsar

town of Odoev,

who

as

Kokcha,

also killed at this time

Tartar hero, of

prin-

of Ir-Kokcha in Nicon's

with

1423,

in

Kuidadada's

a

and married a Russian

and strength." relieved

H

2

Kazan,

100

and

Travels in Central Asia.

name

his

The manner

occurs in the annals of that town.

down from age for antiquity It

which these legends are handed

in

to age proves the tenacity of regard

among

the nomadic tribes of Asia.

mind

must, however, be borne in

poetical different

trace

them

all,

the

many

it

difficult to

M. Hodzko,

episodes out of the

their classical robber, Kor-Oglu,

Kaisak rhapsodies. traditions, legends,

in Lapland,

for

Idichi

Turkmen, who must have borrowed

either from the Kaisaks or Nogais

manner

of the

and the

other,

which renders

to their true source.

instance, heard

them

proximity

of the tribes occupying them, are

adopted by

from

the

roaming grounds to each

dialectic affinity

easily

from

traditions,

that these

Asia

and

rich

is

in

M.

fables.

heard narrated the

;

in like

figures in

wandering

Castren, while

myths concerning

Cyclops, Polyphemus of the Odyssey, &c., with some national and local adaptations, current Karelians.

The same

Kirghiz Steppe. giant

ogre,

fable

Cyclops

and a

is

is

among

current

in

the the

there called Alp,

Kii-ghiz

giant,

a

Batiir-Khan,

enacts the part of Ulysses.

The Dikokamenni Kirghizes able

epic,

period.

" the

possess a remark-

Manas," relating to the Nogai

Epic Poems current among

The "Manas" is an encyclopaedical the

Kirghiz mythological

101

the Kirghizes.

collection of all

and

tales

traditions,

brought down to the present period and grouped

round one person

—the

their

life,

geography,

morals,

It

is

a

The Kirghiz mode

species of Iliad of the Steppe.

of

Manas.

giant

and

religious

medicinal knowledge, as well as their relations with other tribes,

find

all

pendious epopee.

poem has

This

com-

this

in

illustration

evidently under-

gone recent modifications and additions, and concentration

"

Djumuks"

modem

one

into

The

prosaic

of

may probably be of very

(tales),

date.

out

whole,

its

"

Manas"

of

consists

many

separate episodes, having the form of a connected

Another

relation.

epos, the " Samyatei," serves as

a continuation of the " Manas," and

The Kirghizes

Odyssey.

but I

much time

is

of the

at

present

" Manas,"

and

required for the " Samyatei,"

an exaggeration.

this is in all probability

am

the Burnt

say that three nights are

insufficient for the relation

that as

is

engaged

in

translating

the

" Manas," and intend to compile a small dictionary, in order to

make

students

acquainted with a hitherto

of Oriental literature

unknown

dialect.

language of the Dikokamenni Kirghizes resembling

more

closely

than

any

is

The

Turkish,

other

that

Trncch

10:2

spoken in

Little

or scarcely

composed

an}',

Central

ill

In

Bokhara.

^lisia.

it

there are veiy few,

Arab and Persian words,

Mongohan and

principally of

being

it

primitive

Turk teims. At

this point I

wovJd

a few words on

fain say

the distribution of the Kirghiz race, tribes,

and

their present political condition.

The Dikokamenni Kirghiz Horde two

wings,

" Sol,"

i. e.

right

wing

right

and

consists of

The

is

:

divided into "

On

"

and

corresponding to the

left,

Borongar "

and " Tagai." it

already mentioned

as

"

Mongolian

principal

its

and

two

"

Dzungar."

divisions,

"Adgene," and with

latter is the largest,

must be classed the kindred but

The

hostile tribes of

Sarabaguish and Bugu, Sultu, Sayak, Cherik, Chon-

baguish and Bassyz— numbering eight in

all.

The

Bugus, since 1S55, 'have been subject to Russia,

and number eight camps.

They

follow agricultui'e

on the southern shore of Issyk-Kul, and roam in

summer about

the upper courses of the

The Sarabaguishes, numbering ten

Tekes.

wander along the Chu

The

Issyk-Kul.

forming

fifteen

Chu, in the * This iiicnt,

Kegen and

fort

river

Sultu, the

camps,

tents,

and eastern part of

most predatory

tribe,

wander on the Talas and

vicinity of the Kokaniati fort of Pishpek.* was stormed

in October, 1862,

under Colonel Koljiakox

were caplured.

ski,

when

by a Russian delacli-

nine guns

and 600 men

Distribution of the Dikokamenni.

The Sayaks occupy

103

the upper parts of the

Narym

andDjungal; the Cheriks, the highlands

of the

Thian-Shan, south of Issyk-Kul theChon-baguishes ;

sku-t the

The

mountains to the North-West of Kashgar.

two

last

tribes of the

North

of

Tagai branch occupy the mountains

Namangan,

neighbourhood of

in the

Andijan and the upper

course

the

of

The Adgene Kirghizes pursue

gol.

The other

are very poor.

tribes

Djum-

agriculture in

the Ferganah Valley, near the towns of Margilan

and Osh, and pass the summer among the

Osh

tending from enjoy the same

rights

as soldiers in the fill

important

Kokan

to

Kokan.

These Kirghizes

Uzbeks

as the

;

Kokanian army, and

civil

and military

posts.

Alim-Beg-Dashkha,

Vizier,

hills ex-

is

they serve their chiefs

The present

a Kirghiz

Bey

of this tribe, and with his Kirghizes assisted the

Khan Mallya

ruling

The

left

wing

is

to gain possession of

formed

frequent the Talas.

Khan

of

tribes,

who

Their chiefs are related to the

Kokan, who

Kirghiz extraction.

of three

Kokan.

are,

The

on the female

country, peopled

side, of

by the

wandering camps of the Naimans, Kipchaks and Kitais, tribes

which have become incorporated with

the Kirghiz, stretches from

plateau to

Korum

Badakshan,

range

;

with

Osh along

and thence

them

rove

the Pamir

to the Kara-

likewise

the

T

104

I-

Itchkiliks

a c eh

and some

Central Asia.

ill

families of the

neighbourhood

the

All the Kirghizes in

Kashgar town of Tash-Balyk, of the Biigu,

who

Adjene

of

the

with the exception

Russian subjects,

are

tribe.

although

under immediate subjection to China, recognize the

power of the Khan of Kokan,

to

whom

they pay a

tribute of one horse out of every hundred.

For

governing the Kirghizes, the Kokanians have in the

roam

country they 44.° 10'

the

over,

forts

N., 74° 50' E., Merke, on the

of

Chu, 44° N.,

74° 10' E., Aulie-Ata (the ancient Taraz) Talas, 43° 44' N., 72° 3G' E.,

Pishpek,

on the

Kurtka and Truz, on

the Naryn, 41° 38' N., 76° 54' E.,

Ketmen-Tupc

and Djungale, on the

name, 41° 47'

N., 74° 10' E., and

river of that

Tash-Kurgan 4G°

17' F., 70°

E.*

In the latter part of August, the Kashgar mer-

having

chants,

concluded their

Horde, made preparations

for

affairs

with the

departure.

Our

Kirghiz friends advised us to join the Kashgarians, •.he

road, according to their account, being unsafe

for a small caravan.

The banks

Utah-Kapkak Pass were rendezvous.

liere,

of the Tekes at

fixed on as the place of

by the 27th September, were

collected sixty tents, or in caravan fires.

While the route

* These

latitudes

to

and longitudes

parlance, sixty

be chosen (there being it

must be

distinctly

understood

are simply approximative, as obtained from the most recent Russian

maps.

Serious Misunderstandivg several), for

stance occurred

A

105

Affray.

proceeding to Kashgar was being dis-

cussed by the seniors

plan,

—

of tbe

caravan,

circum-

a

which quite upset our

Kokan Yuz-Bashi

from Pishpek to

collect

original

(centurion) despatched

from the

tribute

Bugu

tribe,* arrived at the caravan with six soldiers,

demanded payment

of the

and why they were

being asked what dues,

manded ?

customary dues.

and

On de-

the Yuz-Bashi took offence, and forcibly

seizing three

hundred sheep, drove them up the

mountain, where he kept careful guard over them.

The Kashgar men, accustomed the

Chinese,

sticks,

and

themselves

on the Kokanian

fell

horsing them

armed

forthwith

to conflicts with

remarkable

with

soldiers.

Un-

dexterity,

they

thrashed the warriors so unmercifully,

remained insensible on the Kirghizes,

field

with

that one

of battle.

The

fearing to incur the vengeance of the

Tashkendians, declared that they would not allow the Kashgarians to depart before the recovery of the

wounded

soldier.

part in the affray,

we

As we joined

Tartars and Kashgarians,

* Althougli the Bugu, they, nevertheless, do not

Kokanians and Chinese.

did not take any

company with some

who had

also

as stated previously, are fail

remained

Eussian subjects,

on every opportunity to propitiate the

;

106

Travels in Central Asia.

neutral,

and started

with

the greater speed, seeing that

all

commenced

already

once on our journey

at

to

united caravan consisted of ten

number

of

men was

course of the Tekes

we

fires,

Our

and the

From

sixty.

snow had

mountains.

in the

fall

and

;

total

upper

the

two marches the

cleared in

San-tash mountain pass, presenting a level plateau

famed

for its

passing which tains,

level

we

From

and

valley

the

of

after

moun-

Djirgalan

our route lay along the

this point

fertile

Tamerlane,

crossed the low Kyzylki

and entered the

(happy).

about

traditions

Terskei

valley,

in

which we

observed half-naked Buruts employed in their cornfields.

At the Djity-Uguz friend Bursuk,

Kadyks,

we

river

fell

who had removed

in with our old

thither with his

for the ])urpose of gathering his harvest

same

also several aiils of the

tribe, subject to

Bin-

Samsal, and the renowned robber chief Djanet.

Taking leave of Bm-suk's himself as a safeguard,

we

INIaich the Zaiikti pass.

did not,

and accompanied by

entered on the ninth of

The presence

of

Bursuk

however, save us from the rapacity

the Kirghizes.

On

fragments

of

of

the 11th, as the caravan was

ascending the narrow

by

aids,

defile

rock,

which was obstructed

a deafening

shout

was

Encounter with the JBurats.

suddenly

and several small

raised,

We

simultaneously displayed.

107 were

flags

had hardly time

to

take up a defensive position, and to fortify our-

behind the natural barricades, v^hen

selves

wre

My

were attacked by a band of seventy Kirghizes.

comrades, actuated by the instinct of self-preservadisappeared under cover of their camels, and

tion,

did not show themselves again until the fray was

Our

over.

position of the caravan

succeeded

in

repelling

ment was limited to

Bursuk,

an

their effective weapons,

the

Buruts

to a few

whom we had

and

taking

The engage-

wounded on both

exchange of prisoners.

passage,

safe

and

one of their chief leaders.

prisoner

and

owing to the strong

servants, however,

sides,

The worthy

taken with us to ensure our

considering

himself compromised,

departed secretly without the promised present.

The Zaiiku pass

is

formed by the rapid course of

the Zaukii, and by the Zaukiichak, Kashka-ashu,

and some Dzungarian* also

form passes.

the course of the cates.

The

rivuleta,

which fall into it, and

route thus runs

chief river, after

Beyond the

junction of

first

which the

it

along bifur-

Dzungarian

* Mr. Semenaf was evidently not aware of the existence of this will appear from his remarks on Eitter's "Asia," p. 16,

stream,yias vol. ij|

1 08

Travels in Central Asia.

river,

Zauku

the

defile

becomes

steeper

and

narrower; forming terraces witli two Alpine lakes

between.

Fragments of rock,

boulders,

block up the passage.

nates

in a

The

huge, irregular

The

defile termi-

ledge of about 800 feet

precipitous

height.

in

in

skeletons of beasts

which strew the path, bear witness

burthen

of

to the difficulty

of the ascent.

The whole

of the

caravan could

in one day, and, therefox-e, the it

ascend

advanced portion of

bivouacked on a small marshy plateau, at which

Zauku

the

remained

The

pass terminates, while the other portion

abundant

wet

the bottom, at the old encampment.

at

of the ascent was increased

difficulty

more

yawning

Pive camels and

abyss.

My

in this way.

were quite distracted. beasts.

and with a loud

ricochetting,

fell

two horses perished

The

companions

Each was occupied with cries of the drivers, alterna-

ting with curses and abuse, Allah,

and

over the

and on more than one occasion, losing

stones,

own

by an

pack-horses,

especially the camels, often slipped

crash, into the

his

The

snow.

of

fall

their footing,

to

not

and devout appeals

Baha-ooddeen, Appak-Hodja, and other

Mussulman

saints,

shook

for ages

on the surroundinc;

bcratiiiL!;

echoes.

the

snow accumulated

hills

with their

I'ever-

CHAPTER On

V.

the Condition of Aliy-shahr, or the Six Eastern

Towns of

the

Eastern Turkestan three sides

:

Province of Nan-lu

Chinese

[Little Bokhara),

in

is

1858-59.

enclosed by mountains on

by the Thian-Shan on the Northern,

the Bolor on the Western, and

Southern.

Kuen-Lun on

the

These mountains belong to the highest

ranges of Central Asia, and form the natural limits of the

Western portion of the Chinese Empire. The

actual boundary, however, runs along the line of

pickets

stretching

through the

ranges on the Chinese side the territory

who

is

;

beyond

lower

this frontier

occupied by roaming Kirghizes,

recognize the authority of the

To

outlying

Kokan Khan.

the Eastward, Eastern Turkestaa

by the uninhabited sandy

is

deserts of the

bounded

Makhai

110

Travels in Central Asia.

and Kamul Gobi. between

plain

70° and 90°

West

consequently a

occupies

It

36° and

43° North

and

latitude,

longitude, from the meridian of

Paris.

Eastern Turkestan

occupies the centre of the

table-land of Eastern Asia

;

but Humboldt, guided

by the vegetable productions of these

parts, con-

Bokhara cannot

cludes that the plain of Little

have an absolute elevation of more than 1,200

and

calls

it

the

Tarym

Tarymgol (otherwise

depression, after the river

whose basin occupies

Ergol),

whole plain of Eastern Tarkestan.

the

Bokhara does,

feet,

Little

in fact, present the appearance of

a great depressed valley, resembling, in physical features,

an open

plain

receives confirmation

;

and

this

general view

from a consideration of the

course of the river Ergol, whose bed. slopes very gradually to the eastwards.

The

interior of this country

the peculiar features of which in

first

a sandy desert,

become

visible

the eastern slopes of an undulating range of

hills,

of no great width, between

Yarkend. it

is

From

this region it gradually

runs to the eastward, where

devoid of reservoirs

all

Yanyshahr and

it

widens as

forms the vast Gobi,

vegetation, though interspersed with

of brackish water,

and where the sand

Ill

Pliysical Fcafiires of the Desert of Gobi. is

heaped in such

give

lofty ridges that the inhabitants

them the name

of "

Gag

" (mountain).

are to credit native writers, this sand

the same

phenomena

of drifting

is

If

we

subject to

and regular

loco-

motion as the famed moving deserts of Africa, and occasionally buries w^hole at

lie

the foot

cities.

parts that

mountains have a clayey

of the

strewed with small stones, and in some places

soil,

impregnated with

The numerous

salt.

ning from the neighbouring the

The

artificial

rivers run-

means

hills afford

irrigation of the earth,

for

which would

otherwise yield but scanty and poor vegetation,

owing to the extreme dryness of the

air

;

and, at

best, there are but a few well-watered parts that

form

fertile oases.

These cultivated and peopled

patches form a ring round the base of the Thian-

The water system

shan, Bolor, and Kiien-hm.

the river Tarym, with interior of this desert,

fertility

tributaries, relieves the

its

by a narrow

land along the various

of

river

of the soil admits

strip

courses,

of fertile

where the

of a rude system of

cultivation.

Such

is

the general character of the territory of

the Southern

line,

which

somewhat monotonous

is

in

completely aspect,

level,

owing

to

absence of any mountain hues of demarcation.

and the

;

112

Trnveh in Co/trnl Asia.

The mountains surrounding Turkestan, on other frontier,

lie

beyond the

political limits of the

country, but are of importance to

and

roads

and

passes,

mountain roads

it

consequent

communication with the

rest

regards

as

facilities

through

for

The

of the world.

run

generally

its

defiles,

with many ascents and descents, or wind by paths or lead along the face

to a considerable height,

With regard

of dangerous slopes. cation, the

for

access.

E

82° 48'

,

communi-

Thian-shan affords the greatest

facilities

This mountain chain has three cha-

from the meridian of Kucha

divisions,

racteristic

to

to

its

intersection with the Bolor.

the East, from the transverse course of the to

Kucha, the

celestial

mountains

ing ridge, covered with feed enormous glaciers,

To Aksu

rise in a tower-

perpetual snoAvs, which

and are therefore

called

the Muzart, or Icy Mountains.

The

rivers rising in

these rock

and ice-bound

fastnesses have a transverse course throughout the entire

mountain

with coniferous

The

line.

trees,

but this

district

habited.

There

is,

,is

declivities are covered

and abound nevertheless,

only

Muzart mountains, which

in pasturages all

but unin-

one pass through the is

the Pass of Glaciers, and by

called

by the Chinese

Humboldt "Djeparlc."

Land of

Tdhle

Through

this pass there

118

Syrt.

a road leading from

is

Kuldja, 43° 54' N., 80° 58' E., to Aksu.

Although,

according to Chinese accounts, Djeparle presents very

great

difficulties,

ticable for camels.

against

it

prac-

nevertheless

is

The Muzart Pass

is

closed

crest

in

about

foreigners.

Its

lies

42° 28' N., 80° 38' E.

Westward

Aksu

of the

river,

as

the

as

far

meridian of Kashgar, the Thian-Shan merges into a broad table-land, called

by the Kirghizes " Syrt,"

about a hundred miles in width, and intersected

by transverse

tion.

" Syrt "

The

sea-level.

timber;

valleys considerably elevated above

soil

its

It is

is

utterly

is

quite

destitute

of

incapable of cultiva-

covered with a short but thick grass,

summer pasture-ground

and serves

as

Kirghizes.

There are many caravan tracks across

a

the " Syrt," which are

To

the

west

of

the

all

for the

available with camels.

meridian

of

Kashgar the

The

Thian-Shan separates into several branches. mountains of

this region are all well

valleys of the rivers,

are fertile

;

all

of

wooded

;

the

which have deep beds,

and the ascents become, consequently,

steeper at several points.

Over

this tract there are

several horse paths, but only one commercial road,

leading

from the

Eerganah valley to Kashgar, I

1

1

4

Travels

through

Central Asia.

iu

known

Terekty-davan Pass,

the

under the name of the Kashgar siderable trade

was carried

A

defile.

on, in the

to

us

con-

most remote

times, along this road, between Asia and China.

The Terektin road abounds with The

along

distance

Kashgiir

is

this

estimated

as

fuel

and

forage.

road from Kokan

to

caravan journey

of

a

eighteen days.

The Bolor mountains, otherwise

called Alai

by

the Andijans, are precipitous and inaccessible on

and form on the

their western face,

summer by

cold plateau, \isited only in the Kirghizes.

There

is

east a high,

only one caravan road over

the Bolor, ^vhich passes through Badakshan.

Badakshan road at

best,

I'oad

is

not

through

This

said to be very fatiguing, and,

is

Yarkend

to

to Bokhara, Balkh,

cai\'nans requiring sixty-fivo

The

on horseback.

practicable

Badakshan

Khulum, thence

the

leads

to

and Cabul;

days to reach Bok-

hara by this route.

The Pamir

is

by the Kirghizes

intersected ;

all

by roads well-trodden

of which lead to the

Khanate

of Kokan, or to Karategin.

Over the Kuen-Lun one pass

is

known,

that of

Kara-Korum, by whicli Eastern Turkestan communicates with Thibet

and India.

The

road,

as far

;

Vnrnrai) Roaih of

Emtcni

Tiirke-slan.

IJ.')

,as Thibet, leads through uninliabited places with

poor pastures, while from Thibet into India they

become

so

from

produce

Indian

that

difficult

Bokhara reaches Eastern Turkestan through the

The

Terektin

Pass.

Thibet

a journey of forty days,

is

Thibet

to

Cashmere

distance

;

from Yarkend to

and twelve from

horses and

yaks

are

the

beasts of burthen chiefly employed on this road.

The mountains rally offer

encircling Little

but few approaches; the

ShaUj from the Aksii to

its

Bokhara gene-

line of the

Thian-

point of intersection

with the Bolor, alone affording anything resembling facilities for

communication.

Of all the routes above named,the Terektin most frequented by troops it is

as well as

is

that

by caravans

enlivened by constant commercial

traffic,

and

not a day passes without the passage of a caravan over

it.

The

rivers of Little

Bokhara belong

to the river

system of Tarimgol, with the exception of a few which, rising in the Kuen-Lun range, faU into lakes or lose themselves in the sands.

The

chief rivers

forming the Tarimgol are the Aksu-Daria, Faizabad-

Daria (otherwise called the Kashgar-Daria), Yarkend-Daria,

Daria

is

and the Khotan-Daria.

formed by two

affluents,

The Aksuthe Aksii

viz. I

2

;

Travels in Central Ji^ia.

116

proper (the higher waters of which are

first

called the

Sary-Djas, then the Kopchagai, but receives the

name

best

it is

known by

and the Kakshal

which

its

The Aksu

river.

Khan

thern slope of

only in

lower course),

rises in the nor-

Tangri-ula, on emerging from

runs parallel to the meridian, bisecting the

it

Thian-Shan, in which

it

has excavated for

itself a

deeprocky channel. The Kakshal flows from the

hilly

elevations on the eastern side of the mountain-lake

Tchadyr-kul, and runs due east under the

name

of

Aksai, through an extensive table-land, on quitting

which

turns abruptly in a southerly direction,

it

descends the southern slope of the Thian-Shan and falls finally into

the Aksu, having a course parallel to

the base of the mountains, and a general direction

from N.E. to

The

S.W forming the Kashgar-Daria

rivers

the Thian-Shan and Bolor.

formed by the two the to

first

takes

rivers

its rise

the North- West

second,

the

Kizyl,

has

TheFaizabad-Daria

Kok-Tonn mountains,

Jjake its

Tchadyr-Kul

source

mountains, where the Thian-Shan the Bolor.

is

Tiimen and Kizyl-Daria

in the

of

in

rise

The Faizabad-Daria

is

in

the

;

the Altai

intersected

receives on

its

by

right

the river listen, or Khan-Aryk (marked YamaniarTlsten on Russian maps),

and the Yangishahr-Usten,

;

Rioer System of Eastern Turkestan.

and on its

left

The Artysh

the Artysh.

elevation of the Torgat, bordering

117

rises in

the

Lake Tchadyr-

kul on the South, and before emerging into the valley

is

called the Toin.

affluents

remarkable it

the

in is

mountains,

of wrhich

many

the most

the Terekty or Astyn- Artysh, joining

on the right

The

side.

niar, is the outlet of

of Pamir.

This river receives

Usten or Yama-

river

Lake Karakul

in the table-land

To the Kashgar-Daria system belongs

the

Yanyshahr-Usten, flowing from the neighbourhood of

Lake Sarikol and

on

its

right bank.

falling into the

The Yarkend-Daria

formed by the

Usten

is

which

rises

Kashgar-Daria or Yarkend-

Yarkend-Daria proper

out of Lake Sarikol, and

the river

Tynzap, flowing from the northern slope of the

Karakorum Pass

in the

Kuen-Lun mountains. The

Khotan-Daria also takes

its rise

in the

formed by the junction of two streams

hills,

and

the

Kara-Kash and Yulgun-Kash,

is

Y'^urun-Kosh by the Chinese). of the Aksti, Kashgar,

which

all

takes the

Karakorum

(pronounced

Below the junction

Yarkend and Khotan Darias,

unite nearly at the same point, the river

name

of Tarim-Usten,

and Tarimgol or

Ergol according to Chinese geography. the rivers falliug into the

Among

Tarim the most note-

worthy are the Muzart, Kucha-Daria and Khaidu,

118

Trncch

ill

Centra] Asia.

descending from the Thian-Shan andfalling into the

Tarim on into

its left

bank.

Lake Lob-Nor, This

Starry Lake. authorities, is

400

lis

The Tarim disembogues

signifying, in the Mongolian, lake,

in lenath

The neighbourhood abounds which play

by 200

lis

in width.

turbid springs,

in

like foimtains.

There are many lakes in lying along the borders

among

Bokhara,

Little

There

all

and

of the inner desert,

containing brackish water. current

Chinese

according to

a tradition

is

the inhabitants that their forefathers

sprang originally from the bottom of a large inland Eastern Turkestan bear,

sea.

All the rivers

more

or less, the character of mountain torrents in

their

upper courses, having an inconsiderable depth,

of

but a rapid current over a rocky bed.

In

July

and August the waters swell considerably from the melting snows, but they are fordable at seasons of the year.

They assume a

all

great depth

and breadth only on the junction of

several streams.

Perries exist over the Kizyl river,

between Kash-

gar and the Chinese

fort, as also

over the Faizabad-

Daria, (at the junction of the Tiimen

Although,

throughout,

the

and

Kizyl).

Kashgar-Daria

and

Yarkend-Daria are navigable when

full,

Tarim

whole course,

at

all

seasons and along

its

and the

Arrangemeiih for accomoduHiiy Cnravaus. 119 the natives do not take advantage of these

yet

admirable

for

facilities

rivers of Little

Bokhara, viewed either as convenient

communication or

for

light, are of the

inasmuch

as

The

intercommunication.

in a scientific or agricultural

utmost importance for

they diffuse fertiUty

this region,

inner

the

in

and convert the otherwise inhospitable

deserts,

a country suitable for the abode

plains into

of

man.

The roads

enough. all

between the towns of

and China,

Turkestan

Eastern

along

in the interior,

are

convenient

" Urtengs," or stations, have been built of

them by the Chinese, each

of which

is

occupied by fifteen or twenty Chinamen under

an

officer,

with

many Turkestan

as

sides these " Urtengs," there

are

families.

signal

Be-

houses

for the

speedy transmission of intelligence in the

event

of

war

accommodation of for

small

insurrections

or

;

travellers, forage

caravans

are

also

and,

for

the

and provisions

obtainable at these

stations.

The all

city of Aksii

is

the point of divergence for

the roads of this region.

centring at

Aksu

The

various routes

lead to China, IH, and

all

the

towns of Eastern Turkestan. All the roads leading from the interior of China,

Trdceh

12U

to

in

Central

Ada.

the Western frontiers, converge at the town of

Hun-Chanfoo, whence there

is

a road to Lian-Djeu,

where a large magazine of warhke

been

stores has

estabUshed for use in the event of a war in the

this

of 37 versts (24f miles) from

At a distance

west.

town, at the western extremity of the great

wall,

the

is

commands

From

the road.

which

Tzia-yui-Hiian,

of

fortress

this point to

Komula

extends a sandy steppe, uninhabited, and destitute alike of water, forage,

or vegetation.

granaries have been in like

the

Chinese

Komul.

at

Important

manner established by Farther on, the road

branches off in two directions, one, the " Northern

Road," leading

to

" Southern Road,"

Dzungaria,

the

other,

the

Turkestan.

The

Dzungarian road trends along the eastern

lateral

the

depression of

to Eastern

Thian-Shan,

Urumchi, and Hurkharasu to

Road

through Hi.

Barkul,

The Southern

takes a westerly direction through Pidjan to

Turfan, which latter town has direct comumnica-

Urumchi by way

tion with

Turfan, is

it

of Bogdo-tila.

leads to Kara-Shahr, which in

accessible

its

turn

from Hi by the rivers Julduz

and

Narat-Davam.

i\Iarshy

ward,

to

extend

necessitating

Beyond

an

the

swamps, stretching westsouth

earthern

of

Kara-Shahr,

embankment

at

the

Boute from Pekin

town

and the road,

of Buigur,

from Pekin

distance

more

level tracts of country,

steppe,

miles of the

however,

Khami

750

founded stations.

8844

at

versts

(497

versts

or less inhabited

terminating

oasis,

barriers of Tzia-yui-Hiian

of

calculate the

The Southern Road runs through

(25461 miles).

barren

Kuchi,

after passing

Aksii

to

121

Aksu.

The Chinese

Aksu.

finally reaches

to

and Khami,

remarkable

for a distance

The Chinese have and along

points

Southern Road, in mihtary respects, are 45° 18' N., 92° 14

'E.,

:

built

the

—Khamil,

where are magazines of grain

and arms, and Buigur. This town

lies in

the middle

and with a small force

of impassable marshes,

capable of defending the Southern Road.

four and a half and

84

within

settlements along this road,

The

a

between the

spreads

miles).

,•

five

months

is

It takes

caravans and

for

troops to traverse the road from Pekin to Aksu,

but the

journey

is

effected

in

one month by

special messengers.

Prom military

Aksvi to Hi (Kuldja), at which place the

and

civil

governments of the Western

region are concentrated, the distance at

615

versts

(407^

miles),

through very mountainous

the

localities.

is

road

reckoned leading

The famous

Djeparle, or pass of glaciers, occurs on this road.

132

A

Travels in Cetitral Asia.

quick

journey

days,

fifteen

is

over

road,

this

upon

looked

all

in

marvel

of

a

as

expeditious travelling, even with

completed

the advantages of

numerous

" Urtengs "

along

it.

The

Aksu

goes to Ush-Tmfan, 41° N., 76°, 20' E., and

at

Chinese high road from

principal

To Ush-Turfan

Yarkend.

mated

which have been constructed

the

distance

is

esti-

to

Yarkend

at

247

eighty miles, and

At a distance of 290

miles.

from Aksu, on the road

to

(192 miles)

versts

Yarkend,

lies

the

town

garrisoned by a Chinese force, and

of Burchuk,

provided with a

From hence

ferry.

there

is

a

direct road to Kashgar, the distance thither, from this

being estimated at about 240 versts

point,

(159 miles)

;

Aksu always

trading caravans from

proceed straight to Kashgar along this road.

main road from Yarkend leads Yanyshahr on to Kokan.

to Kashgar,

The

Yarkend and Yanyshahr,is 113

The

through

distance between

miles, andfifty-seven

miles from the latter place to Kasligar, the length

of the journey between

computed

at

Government

270

Kokan and Yarkend being

miles.

convoys

troops

and

Kashgar

and

Chinese

march

to

Khotan, through Yarkend. Besides these roads, there

Aksu

to

is

one direct from

Khotan, following the course of the Kho-

Various Caravan Routes

to

Yarkend.

123

tan-Daria, (along the banks of which caravans travel for eighteen days, or fifteen days in quick travelling),

and two others from Ush-Turfan to Kashgar. One of those between the latter places emerges

fourth station of the

which

Yarkend route

;

at the

after joining

proceeds to Burchuk, and thence to Yark-

it

end and Kashgar, while the other leads straight to Kashgar.

This latter road follows up the course

of the Kokshal, and, passing the military station of

Bokchan, reaches Altyn-Artysh.

Kashgar by

The road

The

this route is calculated

traverses

various

at

end, and

and the level

Aksu

233^

to Ush, Kashgar, Yark-

Khotan pass through populous

fertile

The

fuel.

localities,

last thjee follow the course of rivers

and

miles.

uninhabited tracts,

which, however, abound in forage and routes leading from

distance to

whose

banks, hardly rising above the

stream, present fine natural meadows, so that the

roads

winding along between the base of the

mountains

and the

channels of the rivers, pass

through densely populated regions. In former ages the Chinese communicated with the Western region through Hua-Chjeii (133^ miles

west of Tzia-yui-Htian) straight over the sandy steppe to Khotan is

;

altogether closed.

at present, however, this

There

is

road

likewise a road from

124

Travels in Central As.la.

Turfan to Khotaii via the Lobnor, but last

named,

it is

the

like

also closed.

Notwithstanding

enormous extent, Eastern

its

Turkestan possesses a remarkably uniform climate,

which can only be accounted ties

of

its

by the pecuhari-

for

The circum-

geographical position.

jacent mountainous districts are subject to climatic

which

conditions,

differ

materially from

Even

the Little Bokharian plain.

storms

are

mountains.

frequent

of

It is

cool,

whole of the season

summer snow among

occurrence

the

the

throughout the

indeed, in

;

in

those of

snow

the

valleys

remains on the ground until the months of

May

and June, while the mountain summits are covered with

perpetual

October

;

at all

snows.

Winter

events, a caravan

commences which

left

in

Kash-

gar on our arrival at that place (13th October),

was compelled defile

We

to return on account of the Terektin

having been blocked up with snow. shall

now speak

of the climate of the Plains,

dwelling chiefly, indeed almost exclusively, upon that of the " territory of the six towns."

ning then with our October,

own

observations

:

when we entered on the southern

the Thian-Shan chain, into the Terekty shores

of the

Terekty river

Begin-

on the 9th slope of

defile,

the

were clothed with

Ohservations

T/ifrmoi)i(4rical

in

Kashgar.

125

luxuriant trees and picturesque clumps of bushes.

The thermometer indicated 81°

.5

Fahr.

and on

;

entering Kashgar, our caravan passed through fruit

gardens where

down

women and

children

were cutting

the remaining vine branches, after gathering

the season's vintage, and the pomegranates were still

not

on the all

been got

various

The

trees.

and cotton crops had

Fresh greens and

in.

such

soils,

rice

quinces,

apples,

as

fruit of

pears,

peaches,

and

bazaar.

The weather from the 9th October

were exposed

figs

for

sale

and

clear.

The

November

the 22nd

fall,

while the water in the

canals was covered with a thin crust of

November

ice,

The

first

31st December, and continued of the following day

;

snow

falling

fell

on the

until the

the second

snow was on the 19th January, when all

and on

the water was stopped at the

" aryks," or aqueducts.

middle

about

;

the nights grew colder, and

the leaves began to

the 26th

till

warm

lowards the end of November was uniformly heat rose to 81° .75 Fahr.

the

at

it

fall

of

snowed

day and half the night, and again en the 24th

January

until the

morning of the 26th.

mometer generally stood falling only twice

the Bist

at 32° Fahr.,

The

and upwards,

below the freezing point.

December

it

ther-

On

indicated 14° Fahr., and on

126

Trmieh

Cpniral Axla.

in

the 28tli January 4° Fahr.

Tnmen

The

and

rivers Kizyl

did not freeze during the whole winter, but

the ponds in the town were covered with ice eight inches thick.

new

After the Chinese

year, from

which the natives reckon the commencement of spring, the weather actually

On

became warmer.

the 26th February water appeared in the canals,

and

nature

began speedily

beginning of March, pies

revive.

to

with the

filled

In

first

the

shoots

of vegetables were offered for sale as " delicacies of

the

season,''

and on the

several trees

21st,

the court yard of our abode were already in

During the

leaf.

\vhole

in full

time, until the departure

of the caravan from the open country, on the 29th

March, the weather was bright and warm. 26th and 27th of prevailed. ing,

this

Fogs and

warm N.E. wind

were,

generally speak-

of rare occurrence, usually

only, after which,

at

the

a

month

rain

On

intervals,

lasting it

two days

rained slightly.

During the middle of February, the weather was

N.W. winds predomi-

frequently windy, west and nating.

Relying

on

these

facts,

and

on

strength of the testimony of the inhabitants, certain that spring

of February, and

commences here

somewhat

ing Ferganah valley.

in

later in the

The summer,

it

the it

is

the middle

neighbouris

said,

is

"

Shupdor

driHid of

Thunder

127

Sloniis.

distinguished by great heat, and the air becomes insufferably oppressive from the heavy clouds of dust, the

more

so

by reason

of the great scarcity

The

inhabitants of Eastern

of rain in these parts.

Turkestan are particularly afraid of thunderstorms.

When

horizon

the

their pupils

vi^ith

clouded,

is

the " ahunds

all

walk out on the terraces of the

Mosques and read a prayer or "knut" loud voice prayers

a

;

and

it is

of an ordinary

a fact that they ascribe to these

of this intense apprehension

phenomenon,

the circumstance that

is

to be ascribed to

the earth,

becomes covered with

rain,

a

power of propitiating the threatening

The cause

heavens.

in

salt,

after

a

fall

of

which destroys

the harvest, and also to their houses being built of

mud, with fall

flat roofs,

so that in the event of a heavy

of rain, the towns of Little Bokhara would be

entirely

The

much

destroyed.

winter, according

all

accounts, has generally

the same character that

stay,

/.

e.

it

bore during our

the snow remains on the groimd not

longer than three or four days, and the rivers do

not

freeze

at

all.

When

along the shores, the winter one.

the rivers is

are

frozen

considered a severe

Intense colds prevail at the end of the twelfth

month

of Chinese computation, that

is,

in January,

1

2S

'Prareh in Central Asia.

and spring commences from the Chinese holiday of

new

the

name

in

which the Turkestans

year,

by

call

its

Mongolian, Chagan. This gradual transition

from summer to autumn, and the abrupt change from winter to spring, form climatic peculiarities

The

almost exclusively confined to this country.

change

seasons

the

of

accompanied by the

is

The

following variation in the \'egetation. tree

blooms

trees

in the

commence

middle of

budding

;

JNIarch,

apricot-

when

cultivated

other

meadows

become covered with

fresh blades of thick "

yu" and

and anemones then make their

grass, tulips,

appearance

the

in

In April the apricot-tree

fields.

begins to bear, and towards the end of

and the

berry, apricot, at maturity.

At

onions, turnips,

planted over

this

"

in

" djugara,"

May the mul-

zamuch " melon,

time barley

is

arrive

reaped, and

and other kitchen vegetables are

it.

Peaches and apples ripen between

Jime and August, while other gathered

musu-

August. (Javary),

cereals

and

fruit are

Hempseed, sesame,

rice,

maize and cotton are not

harvested until September and October.

The prevailing wdnds here

are Westerly

and

North-Westerly, which blow principally during the spring,

and

raise

dust and dense clouds of sand.

Yanyshar, Yarkend and Khotan are under nearly

GeHiaVity rnid Saluhriti/ of Climate of Kliofan. 129

same

the

conditions

climatic

Khotan the winter Aksu, and

more

is

no great heat

winter

snow

is

In Turfan,

Bai

and Sairam,

in

first falls

immediately

in

and more

summer, and the

become

rivers

the

to

but

frozen,

towards the end of January, melting this

;

prevails

The

severer.

at

yet milder.

especially

lying nearer to the mountains north,

Kashgar;

as

does not, however,

growth of pomegranates,

figs,

If

we

the

Emperor Kan-Si, and Pere

retard the

and cotton

Aksu.

at

are to believe the concurrent testimony of

Gerbillon, relative to

the cultivation of orange trees, Khamil must enjoy a more genial climate.

In the Eastern towns,

said, the winters are cold,

hot.

it is

and summers exceedingly

Yet Turfan and Khamil are famous

for their

vegetable productions, the latter in particular for its

melons, which are eaten at the Im.perial Court.

The climate the health

of its inhabitants

beneficial influence

on

are altogether

unknown

as

strangers,

Epidemics and

salubrious.

by

of Eastern Turkestan, judging

well as

by

its

must be very diseases

pestilential

to the Turkestani, with one

important exception, however, the small-pox, which in former times swept

drove

the

mountains.

away whole

panic-stricken

The

settlements,

inhabitants

ravages of this

disease

and

into

the

are

now

K

loO

Travels

Central Asia.

ill

stopped by the introduction of vaccination. withstanding the great consumption of

Not-

and

fruit,

the universal custom of smoking hashish, which

known

to

human

organization,

have a most injurious

is

on the

effect

very few of the Turkestani

ever suffer from sickness.

Venereal diseases, not-

withstanding the great depravity of the natives,

Throughout the town of

have not spread hither.

Kashgar,

we

disfigured

by them.

only

saw two

The males

strong, yet they seldom attain

women riage

become fifty,

own

and

twelve,

(at

are well built

to early

mar-

even ten years of age),

subject to various chronic complaints.

the Kashgar

and

The

a great age.

weak form, and, owing

are of

who were

persons

women

at seventy or eighty.

At

are as withered as our

Goitre

is

very frequently

met with

at

attribute

its

prevalence to the property of the water

and

also

it is

met with

Passing now

Bokhara, we

Yarkend,

first

natives

wealth of Little Bokhara is

washed out

riches

at the

is

very

this

metal,

and

;

of Little

The mineral explored.

little

Karja settlements in such

large quantities that the inhabitants in

which

point to the characteristic

productive features of this region.

Gold

of

Kokan. natural

the

to

shall

in

the

dispose

of

pay it

their dues

to

private

Gold Wasldny at Karja. " Lans"

Eighty

individuals.

of

131 gold

this

are

annually sent to the Court of Pekin from Khotan.

Copper

is

obtained at Aksii, Sairam, and Kuchi.

The copper

of Aksii

known

is

and contains, according

its

malleability,

to local accounts,

siderable admixture of the

method

for

precious

of extracting which, however,

a con-

metals,

not

is

the

known

to the natives.

Eastern Turkestan affords in abundance sulphur,

alum and

sal-ammoniac, soil

saltpetre.

around the town of Kuchi Stdphur

in these materials.

Turfan, in the Yarkend

Ush-Turfan, and Salt mines are

at

is

district,

volcanic

particularly

rich

obtained at Ush-

and

saltpetre

at

Sairam, 110 miles further east.

worked

tains, east of Aksii.

productions

mineral

is

The

in the

Yan-chi-Shan moun-

Among

the more remarkable

of

Tm-kestan must be

in-

cluded the oriental jasper, Nephrite, or Jade stone,

which

is

highly esteemed in China under the

name

of " Yer."

The Nephrite found here

kinds

from the mountains, called by the

:

natives

that

" Loucha,"

or

is

of two

" bish-bargan," which

is

found in the mountains of Mirdjai and Sutash, 74 miles from Yarkend, and the second obtained in the river

Ulgunkash (pronounced Yurunkash by the

Chinese), under the special supervision of a Chinese

132

Travels in Central Asia.

" gins"

officer.

About

nephrite,

and the whoie of the quantity got out of

ten

the Yurunkash river,

Pekin

where

;

its sale

of

are annually

and disposal

mountain

the

despatched to

one of the

is

most rigidly enforced monopolies of the Chinese

We

Government.

are not aware of silver, iron

and

coal having been discovered in the " territory of the

worked

—

at all events

no such mines have been

in Little Bokhara.

Mention of silver mines

towns/'

six

in the vicinity of cles,

Khamil

but to what extent

Two

made

in Chinese chroni-

this is true

we cannot

which occur on the route from Kashgar to

are not

now

As the

causes.

in operation,

owing

is

and

despatched to the mint at Aksii,

quirements of the inhabitants in these fall

to political

greater part of the mineral wealth

of this region goes in tribute to China,

copper

say.

smelting works, one for copper the other

for lead,

Kokan

is

very far short of being satisfied.

and wrought,

lead, copper,

and

latten

all

the

the reproducts,

Iron,

cast

are received

from Kokan, to which place they are brought, either in

a natural or manufactured state,

Russia.

The very

limited

acquaintance

from

of the

Turkestani with metallurgy, and their ignorance of the simplest forms of mining, prevent them from deriving any benefit from the mineral wealth which

Mineral Wealth and Gold Mines of Khokan. 133 the bowels of the mountains siixrounding

Little

Bokhara must yield in abundance.

The Kokanians,

it is

said, obtain a considerable

quantity of gold by washing, in the upper course of the Syr, which takes

and lead mixed with hills

its rise

silver is also

to the east of Andijan.

rich in minerals.

in the

Gold

Thian-Shan

;

procured in the

The Bolor is

particularly

in nuggets forms the staple

of trade betwen Karategin

and Kokan, and

slaves

[Lapis Lazuli), turquoises and rubies constitute that

Kirghizes forms,

The Pamir

Badakshan and Yarkend.

between

bring rock-crystals,

jasper

in various

and gold nuggets to Yarkend and Kashgar.

Huen-tsang, a Chinese traveller of the eighth century, states that the

Pomola (Pamir) country

gold of a fiery colour. tions have as yet

but of

it

may be

rich

No

mineralogical investiga-

been made in the Kuen-Lun range,

taken for granted there

metallic lodes

worked

in

it.

The

is

no absence

river

for gold, rises out of these

which

is

tains,

and the name of Zar-Afshan

which some

yields

rivers flowing out of

it

Karia,

moun-

(auriferous),

bear,

together

with the tradition throughout Central Asia to the effect that the ruler of the

Gildits keeps concealed

in his cavern bars of gold, tends to strengthen the

foregoing inferences.

134

Trfivi'lxn, Cnitral Asia.

The

natural

vegetation

of

Bokhara

Little

The character

poor and undiversified.

is

of the flora

of these parts bears a general resemblance to the

The northern

steppe vegetation of the Hi valley. slope of the Thian-Shan,

impending over the

of the Issyk-kul, has a rich alpine flora,

luxuriant

meadows

of thick grass

flowers of bright colours

and presents

diversified

by

the declivities of the

;

mountains are covered with the Siberian

silver-fir,

mountain ash and dwarf medlar fCotoneaster floraj,

valley

vuilti-

while along the banks of rivers are found the

barberry, honeysuckle, alpine currant,

Above the

coniferous

and

&c.

zone, the juniper (Juniperxti

" Chiliga,"

or

wild

(Carof/nnd jubataj are met

vidth.

sabinaj,

brier,

southern

wood

The southern

slope of the Celestial mountains, descending to the plain of Little

Bokhara, west of the meridian of

Aksvi, consists of argillaceous schist rate,

and conglome-

while the less lofty auxiliary ranges in front are

formed of layers of laminated clay

The exposed

rocks of the Southern slope are either dotted here

and there with where

this is

these the

isolated patches

of rank grass, or

not the case, are perfectly bare.

Knghiz goats and sheep with

food for themselves in the autumn.

Aksu

the mountains

ai'c

Among

difficulty find

Eastward

of

co\ered with coniferous

Vegetation on the Thian-Shan Range.

trees (silver-fir),

The

135

and present rich mountain pastures.

table-land of the Syrt, excepting the valleys of

the rivers Atbash, Arpa, and Naryn, cultivation,

through

from timber, and covered

free

with fine thick grass.

On

the plains of the Atbash

and Arpa, the Kirghizes millet.

not suited for

is

barley,

and

also devoid of trees

and

sovc wheat,

These plains are

bushes, being covered with fine grasses, such as the feathergrass and of the is

wormwood. The deepened course

Naryn forms

a fertile valley, whose elevation

The banks

equal to that of the Issyk-kul.

the

Naryn

are bordered with the

CHipophce rhamonoidesj rieties

of the

and

willow, poplar,

,

" Chiliga"

of

" Oblepikha"

or wild southern

va-

wood

fCaragana jubataj, while the mountain slopes are clad with dense forests

of

and

coniferous trees

plants natural to the alpine zones of the northern slope.

That part of the Thian-Shan which abuts on

the Bolor

is

typified

by

spiraea, the juniper,

dwarf medlar fCotoneaster

multifloraj.

The

plant, as well as different liliaceous types,

and

latter

such as

tuhps and a species of wild garhc, form the chief characteristics of the also

Bolor

flora,

abounds in rich pasturages.

which,

it is

said,

The Kuen-Lun,

according to Thompson's evidence, has but a poor

and

limited

flora;

its

crags

are

clothed

with

130

Travch

prickly plants,

in Cctilral Ania.

amongst which the astragal

is

the

most common. The landscape and the vegetation of the plain of Little Bokhara

and is

with

still

more dreary

of the country

with

the

" Saksaul"

inevitable

(Anabasis

or of bare illimitable wastes impregnated

fsa.raulj,

The most

salt.

fertile

spots are considered to

between the sandy plains and the base of the

mountains.

month in

are

interior

one vast desert steppe, consisting either of sandy

dunes

lie

The

sterile-looking.

When we

of October,

we

arrived at Kashgar, in the

perceived that the vegetation

the neighbourhood was very scanty

the cha-

;

racteristic plants were the " Yantak" (camelthorn),

tamarisk, artemisia, and different graminecB peculiar to a

and

sandy -argillaceous

soil,

such

as the

" Chi"

Iris augustifolia. In consequence of the extreme

dryness of the atmosphere, and the nature of the soil,

vegetation

localities.

is

entirely confined to well-watered

The courses

t^o narrow

marked by

of the rivers are

parallel belts

of verdure

and

consisting of different species of bushes

The

native inhabitants

" Djengels." are called "

Orenburg have

a

call

forest,

and

these littoral

trees.

woods

River-side clumps of this description

Uremis"

region.

in Siberia

The jungles

and throughout the of Little

Bokhara

character of their own; in the upper courses

Vegetation of Little Bokhara.

of the various rivers in

the

Iovf

137

bushes of the

Hlpophce rhamonoides, by tamarisks in the ThianShan, and by copses of dwarf medlar in the Bolor.

Wherever a

river about mid-course enters

upon a

plain at the base of the lovpest lateral spurs running

down from more

a mountain range, the jungle becomes

diversified,

tree bearing red rose,

yellow

and the poplar, willow, barberry

and black

caragan

wUd

sweetbriar,

fruit,

(Caragana frutescensj, and

other papilionaceous bushes CHcdimodendron argenteurri)

appear in this

its

course

;

the

abundant dwarf-medlar ceases to be

elsewhere found,

portion of

and the Hipophce rhamonoides

attains

a

lofty growth. In the lower part of its course, from the

increasing pressure of the water, each river becomes

broader and forms moist meadows and cane-brakes all

along

its

banks, while the jungles border the

shores in a dense and broad belt, in which forms,

such as the

{Mmagnus-augnstifolid)

hawthorn are

and

found in

wild

new olive

abundance.

After the confluence of the Little Bokharian rivers

with the Tarym, the jungle disappears, and the

banks of the main stream are formed into broad

and marshy swamps thickly overgrown with reeds and cane.

Owing

to careful irrigation

and the long

culti-

138

Travels in Central Asia.

vation which

the

has undergone, the agri-

soil

Bokhara are

cultural productions of Little ciently

and

The

diversified.

villages

producing

and pomegranates.

figs

and the moist parts are sown with

The vegetable productions

hara are the following cereals rice,

javary, red

extent, millet

plants for

and black oats

;

dyeing and

—Wheat,

barley,

and, to a small at

Of

all.

—cotton (belonging

viz.,

hempseed, sesamum

and water-melons,

Bok-

Little

manufacturing purposes.

the graminaceous variety,

madder, and tobacco.

of

grown

not

are

:

lentil,

Eastern Turkestan produces

ceiim),

Plantations

meadows cover extensive

artificial

areas of land, rice.

the towns

surrounded with shady gardens,

are

and

of cotton

outskirts of

suffi-

to

Gossypimn herba-

{Semniion orientale),

Several varieties of melons

of exquisite flavour, are likewise

grown, as also carrots, radishes, beet-root, onions, mint, peas {cicer Ariellnxiii), poppies, and

Cucumbers

The

various

willow,

poplar

belong to the kind called Chinese.

gardens

are

planted

{Poj)/ihis pruinosa),

wild

mulberry,

with

the

pyramidal silver-leaved poplar,

olive

(ElcBagnus

" chiliani " the two latter yield ;

like

the

saff'ron.

are only occasionally to be found, and

date,

and a glue

is

hortensis),

fruit

which

and

tastes

extracted from the

Decline of Ayrieidture

The

first.

mot, peach,

Grapes are grown principally of two

fig.

" Khuseini,"

delicious flavour

and dark are

white,

a

elongated

sorts

variety,

:

of

and " Sakhibi," of a round form

;

The foregoing

colour.

common

and

pomegranate,

quince,

apricot,

berga-

pear,

apple,

are

fruit-trees

Bokhara. 139

Little

in

trees

and plants

to the whole of the Little Bokharian

valley,

with the exception of those grown on the

hills

peaches, pomegranates, and

;

figs, for

instance,

do not grow in Sairam and Bai, while grapes and Prunes,

cotton are successfully cultivated there.

and walnuts

cherries,

inhabitants

Yarkend

of the

district,

are

grown

of Kargalyk,

village

The

in Yarkend. in

the

occupy themselves exclusively

with growing nuts, which form the staple of the trade of this place.

From

that the vegetation of Little

and that agriculture

is

this

Bokhara

in

Without taking

into account

under the same

latitudes,

terized

by the

tropical

richness

it

a

will

very poor,

is

state

be seen

of

decline.

European countries

and which

are charac-

and variety of the semi-

zone, the flora of Little

Bokhara

is

even

poorer than that of Central Asiatic countries under the same parallel of latitude.

The vegetation

of the

mountains of the Dzungaro-Kirghiz Steppe presents a

much

greater variety of natural forms.

In the

140

Travels in Central Asia.

neighbourhood of Fort Vemoe, ther north,

and apples grow wild, and

apricots

the leafy trees are

while

the

grass

distinguished

vegetation

notwithstanding the

Central Asia. coniferous

bushes fruit

;

rich,

walnut

yield almonds

all

pistachio

cidtivation

no small portion

contribute

in Little

part of

and

groves

and agriculture and the

trees

and

the winter

the most fertile

In addition

trade of this region.

grown

remarkably

mountains are covered with

Its

trees,

size;

The neighbouring Ferganah

considered

is

is

for their

severity of

great depth of snow. valley

degrees fur-

five

to

the

to

the

of

fruit

Bokhara, the gardens of Ferganah

and plums.

Bokhara, although

it

presents the appearance of a fertile island amidst

an ocean of sand, has more cultivated vegetable forms than Little Bokhara.

Eastern Turkestan of meadow-land,

wood and the The cause

is

characterized by the absence

by bad

sterility of

agriculture,

scarcity

of

the surrounding mountains.

of this paucity of vegetation

must not

be attributed to the elevated nature of the region, as vegetation in this zone can flourish at a con-

siderable altitude

—

as

evidenced by the ripening

of grapes and peaches on the shores of the Issyk-

kul

—but

to

the character of the

soil,

which

is

Animals

indit/eiioiis

and

never moistened by

rain,

tillage of the land.

With regard

productions

of this

to the insufficient to the vegetable

we must

country,

141

Bokhara.

to Little

state,

in

conclusion, that the sugar-cane referred to in the

Chinese chronicles of the

first

century of our era,

and to vfhich Ritter would have particular tion drawn, does not of Kashgar.

We

grow anywhere in the

vicinity

should imagine that the Chinese

comprehended under

historian

atten-

this

name

either the

sweet " sorgho " or the javary, the stalks of which contain a sweet juice

much esteemed by

the native

children.

The animal kingdom has varieties

;

in the

several characteristic

mountains there are multitudes

of wolves, foxes, jackals, lynxes, bears, and white-

breasted

martens;

also

mountain goats

Tartarica) and sheep {Ovis

argal'i),

the mountain summits.

The deer hide

forests.

{Cajjra

which frequent in

the

Alpine marmots burrow in the south-

western slopes of

all

the high table-lands of the

Thian-Shan, and rats are plentiful in the marshes

about the sources of

rivers.

It is said that

herds

of wild asses [Equus onager), and " djeirans " {Antelope suhgutturosa),

roam over the sandy Steppes.

Chinese works very often speak of wild camel hunts, which formed one of the amusements of

142

Travch

hi

the rulers of these

cities in

standing

chronicles

that

the

As in.

Ci^ntral

Notwith-

past ages. in

our possession

corroborate this remarkable fact, the natives could

not give us any information regarding

we

it

and

;

are, therefore, driven to conjecture that these

wild camels must be entirely annihilated, or have

been scared away to the inaccessible wilds of the

The wild animals

Sahara of Little Bokhara.

indi-

genous to the plains are the Caragan fox {Cania

and Corsac fox {Canis Corsac).

Melanotits)

Tigers,

wild boars, and grey hares, abound in the jungles. Birds

of prey are

found in the mountains,

which those best known to us geayer

{GypcBtos

to Chinese

condor falcon,

{J'altiir

fuJvus),

hawk, and

size

eagle

The

others.

the lammer-

according

attaining,

harbafiis),

accounts, the

are,

of a camel

{Aquila eagle

of

is

;

the

nobilis),

the only

bird employed by the native nobility in hunting the fox and mountain goat, for which purpose is

chiefly got

are procured

the

Aksu

Falcons and hawks

from Khotan.

from the thick

district,

by the Kokanians.

forests of coniferee in

and are trained

Of

it

for the chase

the (jallinacem foimd on

the mountains are the " ular," of the size of the capercailzie,

red circles

of an ashy grey plumage,

round the eyes;

and with

and the "kiklik,"

.

Grain found

hi

Kokan and

148

Turki-stan.

about the size of a partridge, also of a grey colour,

but with black marks over the eyes, and black

and red

of

and the

A

The

Asia.

delicate,

These birds are

stripes over the breast.

also indigenous to the other flesh

mountainous regions

of the

" ular "

tender,

is

and highly esteemed by the Kokanians, of the " kilkik "

flesh

more curious and

which the

less

is

equally palatable.

purpose for

justifiable

latter bird is in request, is to train

it

for

custom with gamecocks

in

fighting,

as

was

England

in

bygone days.

the

Pheasants and quails

are found in considerable abundance in the jungles.

Pigeons of the Steppe {Syrrhaptes paradoxus, fly in vast flocks

over the plains

;

while crows, rooks,

magpies, sparrows, starlings, &c.,

affect

and on the mountain lakes the

common, more

especially

the Tarym, and on Lake

Lobnor, where swans,

sleep on feather beds.

Eastern Turkestan

is

not

are so numerous,

Chinese accounts,

the inhabitants manufacture the

and

and geese are

the lower course of

in

and other water-fowl

according to native and

localities

rarer water-fowl

are singularly scarce, though ducks

geese, ducks,

the streets

In the better populated

of the towns.

Illig.)*

down

It is

visited

* Teiras paradoxus.

Pall.

that

into clothes,

remarkable that

by the

stork,

Trareh

144

m

which

Ckniral Asia.

in

Western Turkestan builds

nest on the

its

mosques, and struts in the streets in

common

^^ith

other domestic animals.

The

of

rivers

and those de-

Bokhara,

Little

bouching into Lake Lobnor, contain an abundance

The Chinese

of fish.

when coming

to Korlo (a settlement in the

Kuchi

on business, ahvaj's carry with them a

district)

supply of

fish for their

any

cannot eat

general

consumption, because they

character

of the

Judging by the

it.

productions of

natiu-al

the fish here will, in

region,

Turkestans

other

food;

other

abstain from

almost wholly

this

Lobnorians

relate that the

all

probability,

be found to be the same as those which natm'alists have already discovered in the rivers of the Balkhash system.

The

Bokhara

sandy-clay

of the

fissures

numerous venomous

shelter

of

soil

Little

insects of the

spider family, such as scorpions, phalangia, and tarantula;

and there

;

We

of lizards. said they

are

is

more

especially a great variety

did not see any snakes rarely

;

encountered, and

but

it

cases

is

of

persons being bitten by them have scarcely been

known flies,

to occur-

gnats,

places,

Li

summer

there are

and moths, particularly

overgrown with reeds.

Of

many in

useful

gad-

marshy

members

—

Domestic Animals of Little Bokhara. of the lowest there

Little Bokhara,

in

is,

animal kingdom,

of the

division

reared only in Khotan and

145

but the

silk-worm, It is said

its vicinity.

that near this city the silk-worm

found in

is

its

natural form.

The domestic animals

of Little

Bokhara are of

the same species with those bred in neighbouring

The

countries.

which are of the Kirghiz

horses,

are obtained from the

breed,

kamenni Hordes.

It

is

and Diko-

Great

only the rich, and those

engaged in the transport of goods, who have large studs,

owing to the

as,

of grass,

scarcity

the

animals must be fed the whole year round on dry

In

provender.

imitation

of

Chinese,

the

native nobles prefer the Kirghiz steeds.

Turkmen

the

Hence

horses are not numerous, and being kept

only by the Khotanians for the saddle, they are of pure

either

"karabairs." fashion,

blood-

The Begs,

employ mules

Mussulman

countries

animals, breeding light

— "topchaks," are

mixed

the

Chinese

which

in other

following

in harness,

or

regarded

as

them being considered

of a grievous sin.

The camels

unclean in the

are of the

breed so extensively diffused throughout MongoKa,

and

the

employ them

Chinese

Government

stores

;

in

transporting

they are also used by the tea

146

Travels

Central Asia.

in

caravans, and occasionally

by the Khotanians. The

occupy themselves merely in rearing

Turkestani sheep, yaks,

and

asses.

when

In order to avoid repetition the topography of the towns

we

Eastern Turkestan,

treating of

and settlements here

shall

of

indicate their

general features.

The and

external aspect of the towns

dull.

The

mosques

monotonous

is

Bokhara

Little

in

being universally built without minarets

kend alone there

a

is

tower over the

(in

Yar-

ancient

Registan mosque), and the houses being low, with fiat

roofs,

the traveller approaching a town sees

mud

only the

walls,

which are of the same colour

as the ground, usually relieved

barred towers, of Chinese

somewhat by small

architecture,

at their

angles.

All the towns of Eastern Turkestan are

encircled

by a wall diminishing

the top,

about eight fathoms thick, and reaching

sometimes

eight

in

breadth towards

and more fathoms

in

height.

Counter-forts are erected at the gates and angles.

The

gates are

made

of planks,

and

are generally

threefold.

Moats of three and more fathoms

depth are

dug round

thrown over them.

the

walls,

The houses

with

in

bridges

are likewise built

Exterior Jspect of a Li I tic Bok/iarian Toion.

of

147

mud, not even excepting the palaces of the

rulers

;

they are

rounded by a

roofed,

flat

The

wall.

and each

interior usually

sur-

is

embraces

an open square, with a water basin in the centre,

shaded by a few

trees, the domicile itself, a stable,

and occasionally a garden. and small apartments most

part,

tinuous

open

bench

;

There are both large

the former being, for the

at the top.

of

common

Inside these a conclay,

overhung with

drapery, runs round the walls, and serves in lieu .

The inner rooms have

of furniture.

slender

branches,

with

apertures

a roof of

the

for

light.

Fires are kindled in stoves, but in winter char-

The

coal is burnt in braziers in the rooms.

rich

have the inner walls of their houses stuccoed, and the

ornamented with

niches

many paper

their

windows a

arabesques, la

Chinoise.

while

The

walls of a house closely adjoin those of its neigh-

bours on either side

and

doors

are

;

alone

mosques, medreseh

but from the street walls visible.

(colleges),

It

is

only the

and other public

buildings, that have a fa?ado to the street, the exterior of

glazed

which

tiles.

The

is

ornamented with coloured

streets

are irregular

and very

narrow, even the two-wheeled araba being only able

to

pasr,

through the principal ones.

l2

The

148

Travels in Central Asio.

refreshment houses, and barber-shops, are

stalls,

situated on both sides of the larger streets leading

from the gates to the market-place,

Some

of the town.

The

in at the top with mats.

or " Aitga," adjoining which called " Charsu."

One

or

two

water freezes in the

from

canals, filled

avenues

of trees,

In winter, when the

through the town.

pass

" Registan "

the market-place,

is

ponds and lined with

several

town

centre of the

generally near the chief mechet,

is

in the centre

of these streets are covered

canals

stopped, the natives draw

it

and the supply

is

from the ponds

either

or river.

The Chinese armed

are

fortresses,

like

manchens occur between them sides of

as

"

the ]\Iussulman

converted into a

Such

at

on both

Hai-Chan."

Yarkend and Khotan

a weekly bazaar.

and

serves

Turkestani settlements or

consist of scattered habitations

a wall,

fields,

street,

streets are called "

apart from each other.

by

If the

close to a native toM'n, the space

is

Hai-Chan "

villages

towns.

which are Chinese houses of refreshment

and shops.

The

manchens, or " gulbai,"

Each house

is

standing closed in

and surrounded by gardens and cornseveral such connected

mulberry and

olive trees,

by avenues

form a settlement.

of

In

;

149

Description of City of Kasligar.

more thickly-populated grouped

closer,

houses are

the

villages,

The Chinese

but have no walls.

the large settlements towns, but the natives

call

term them " Yasy," or

With

villages.

respect to

the local administration of the six "Western towns of Eastern Turkestan, they form departments or districts,

independent of each other

;

and

as the

Chinese do not exercise any immediate influence in

their

we

government,

here

shall

adopt the

native division. 1.

Kashgar

largest

District.

— Kashgar

is

towns of Eastern TurkeStan;

16,000 houses,

is

clay wall six fathoms

high, about ten arshines thick at five at

versts)

It is

The town has two

and South-Western

sides

" Suv-Davsa," the second

Owing

its

foundation,

the top, and about eight miles (twelve

in circumference.

towers.

contains

it

situated between the rivers Kizyl

and Tiimen, surrounded by a

and

one of the

;

defended by six

gates,

the

on the Eastern

first

called

is

"Kum-Davsa"

(sandy).

to the constant dryness of the atmosphere,

the streets are clean, but irregular and narrow

two-wheeled arabas can pass only through the two principal

ones.

The houses

are

excepting four religious colleges ("

one sepulchral chapel,

built of

medrese

"),

clay,

and

which are externally coated

150

Traveh

with glazed

town

is

1838.

" Kune-Shahr,"

or

The The

the

mosque

Hakim-Beg by.

;

is

new one

position.

chief

by the

town

old

nence, while the

close

The

after the Chinese fashion.

tiles,

" Yany-Kurgan," founded in

Central Asia.

divided into two almost equal parts

town,

old

in

;

the

and the new, or ruler

Zurund-Beg

situated on an emi-

much

occupies a

town

centre of the

in front of

lower

a plain, with

is

the palace

of the

while the market-place, " Aitga,"

The old town

is

is

divided into two

quarters,

" Charsu " and " Ambar-ichi ;" and the

new one

into four

—

" Urda-aldy,"

" Ustan-bui,"

" Yumalak-shahr," and " Andijan-kucha."

In Kashgar, there are seventeen "medreseh" or rehgious

seminaries, seventy schools ("mekteb"),

eight caravansarais,

and two other market places

("

Aitga" and " Charsu ")

is

in front of the chief

old town.

Two

;

the first-named of which

mosque, the second in the

principal streets lined with butcher,

cook, and barber-shops and artificers'

stalls,

lead

from the two gates to the centre square or Aitga.

The road from Aitga Square in

by an awning, and

to

Charsu

is

covered

constitutes a mart or bazaar.

Foreign merchants occupy the shops in the Sarai, of

which the more famous

are,

—

1, Jnd/Jan-Sa,rai,

largest, situated in the central square,

and

in

the

which

Municipal Buildings of Kashgar. the

Kokan custom-house

clearance of foreign goods

151 for the

is

established

2,

Kunak-'^wdA, within

;

a short distance of the former, in the street lead-

ing from the Sand-Gates to Aitga

;

principally

it is

occupied by Margilans, merchants from the town

Of other

of Shakhrizebza and Afghans.

situated in the above streets, the best

the " Urtu-tin "-Sarai, occupied Urtii-tin Tadjiks, the

Sarais

besides

;

all

Akstl,

there

"

of cotton,

Gundan

called

are

" Pakhta "

and Jewish

are

bazaars held near the " Sand-Gate," sale

known

by Bokharians and

Yarkend,

which

Sarais, all

constant

one for the bazaar,

and

" for the wholesale disposal of " Daba."

Cattle are sold at the " Gaichan," outside the walls at the Sand-Gates.

There tion,

a " Tynsa," "

is

and a

jail

in the

Dynsa," or police

town,

as

also a

sta-

further

evidence of civilization, in the shape of a barrier, or toll-gate at the "

Daba

is

collected.

and places of

Gundan,"

at

which the tax on

Besides these public buildings

resort,

there

are

two ponds and a

canal (Usten) running through the whole town.

pond

lies

opposite to the house of the

One

Hakim-

Beg, and the other in the Djen-Molak-Shahr quarter.

Every Friday a bazaar of the

is

held, at

which the natives

surrounding villages and the townspeople

—

152

Traced

In

Central Asia.

Of

exhibit the fruits of their weekly labour.

the

settlements pertaining to the Kashgar district, the following 1

A

.

lie

along the system of the river Artysh

at

17 miles N. of Kasghar

a small settlement,

Kashgar Artysh

Sultan

63 miles

(190

Aryn,

;

N.E.

lis)

Saaran, on the Termechuk rivulet

;

;

of

Astyn-

Altyn-Artysh

(Lower Artysh), otherwise

40 miles N.E. of Kashgar, distinguished

(golden), for its

JJstiin- Artysh

group of settlements called

(Upper Artysh),

:

tomb and mosque erected over the grave

Mussulmen

devout

whither

Sutuk-Bagrakham-Hasi, repair on a pilgrimage

of

Kol-Tailak at

;

the confluence of the Artysh and Faizabad-Daria,

88 miles E. of Kashgar

;

BisMerim, 8 miles N.E.

of the

same town, between the Artysh and Tumen

livers.

Along the banks of the Tumen

ments, Mushi, 47 miles

N.W.

of

lie

the

Kashgar

settle-

Samen

;

and Toyuztash, or Dchan-Yan-Kurgan, faubourgs around Kashgar, the on the

W.

side

;

on the

N.W.

the second

Djinchke and Abhat, 8 miles E.

of Kashgar, on the tan,

first

left

bank

of the

Tumen

;

Shap-

on the right bank of the Faizabad-Daria, below

the junction

of the

Tumen

with the Kizyl, 28

miles E. of Kasghar, Avhere there bad, a large settlement at a

on the

S.

is

a ferry

;

Faiza-

distance of 35 miles,

bank of the Faizabad-Daria

;

Yanshbat^ on

;

Tombs of Mussulman Saints near Kashgar. 153 the S. bank of the same river, opposite Koitoalaka,

The

10 miles below Faizabad.

settlements along

the Kizyl, are: Tuguzak at 17 miles the right bank of the same river,

The Khan-Aryk

Kashgar.

6 miles

settlement

of the Alene-Akhund,

abode

Tuzgum, on

;

who

S.

is

of

the

considered

is

the head of the Black-Momitaineer party, 27 miles S.E. of Kashgar, on the river Ussen (Khanaryk,

The

or Yamanyar).

and Tashmalyh

Tlfal,

W.

tains, is

of Kashgar.

settlements

of

Burakhatai,

at the foot of the

lie

To

moun-

Taslimalyh, the distance

estimated at 120 miles and to Burakhatai 40

miles.

Of the

all

the settlements in the district of Kashgar,

most

2,000

extensive

houses

Ustiln-Artysh

1

by Hakims

Ahunds

;

are:

Khan-Aryk

,000 houses.

(rulers),

containing

Faizabad,

number

the

same

They

are all governed

and have

their

own Alene-

or Spiritual Chiefs.

A bazaar Mondays

;

is

at

held at Faizabad once a week, on

Khan-Aryk twice a week, on Sun-

days and Tuesdays. of Kashgar

In the neighbourhood several

tombs of

saints,

much

natives and other Asiatics.

Hodja

is

there

are

reverenced by the

The tomb

of

Appak-

the best building throughout the whole

;

154

Travels in Central Asia.

of the Kashgar district

N.E. of the town, on

bank of the Tumen

the. left

of burnt brick

situated at 4 miles

is

it

;

and decorated

it is

built

and

internally with coloured tiles

;

externally

the cornices are

composed of the horns of the moimtain sheep, goat,

and deer brought

as sacrifices, while flags

entrance

standards decorate the

and

and the crypt

A

large mosque, with spheroidal cupola of

handsome

proportions, has been erected close to the

itself.

tomb by one

The tomb lies

of the sons of the Hodja.

of

Ak-Mazar and Pojakhom-Hodja

on the road to Artysh,

Kashgar.

In the town itself

razyk-Kazi-Hodja,

at seven

the

is

among many

miles from

tomb

of

we have mentioned are the most conspicuous. Chinese Manchen the right

bank

lies

4i miles

S.

Ab-

others, but those

of

The

Kashgar, on

of the Kizyl river, surrounded

by a

wall like that of Kashgar, with two gates on the N.

and

S. sides.

2.

Its garrison

Yavyshahr

8000 houses, and

Disiricl. lies at

the south of Kashgar. wall, has

main

two

street

gates,

numbers 5,500 men.

— Yanyshahr

numbers

about forty-seven miles to

It is

suiTounded by a stone

and two caravan-sarais.

The

runs from the Yarkend gates to the

house of the Governor, facing which

is

a

pond and

—

Bescriplion of Yanyshahr and Yarkend.

155

All the shops, the places of public enter,

canal.

tainment, and the two sarais are in this street.

weekly bazaar

is

held on

Sundays,

the

outside

The most

town, in front of the Kashgar gates. notable villages of this district are

The

Laba, at a

:

distance of ten miles from Yanyshar to the South,

and Terektek, celebrated

The notable holy

duces.

the hashish

for

and

in the

road to Yarkend there

same

is

The Chinese town

the Westward, and to

its

at the

On

direction.

the

a garden belonging to

Mazar-Bygim, with a pond grows.

in the South-East,

and Mazar-bygim

at a distance of ten miles,

distance,

pro-

places in the neighbour-

hood of Yanyshahr are, Chilan-lyk

same

it

which the lotus

in

about a mile to

lies at

garrison,

said,

it is

amounts

2000 men,

Yarkend

3.

of first

Eastern

District.

—Yarkend, the

Turkestan,

of the Khans,

town.

town

residence,

and then of the Hodjas, stands

which flows out of the

resides in

the

formerly

between the branches of the

intent of the

largest

Yarkend-Daria,

The

Sarikul.

Southern road

the Chinese

river

—

^the

fortress

chief super-

Amban-He-be,

commanding the

Yarkend has 32,000 houses.

The town

is

surrounded by a wall eight fathoms in height and

156

Travels in Central Asia.

seventeen miles in circumference, with four gates. It

has four sarais, seventy medreehs, or religious semi-

and one

naries,

Ti/nsa (police station) near the great

Registan Mosque.

All the shops, taverns, sarais,

and the Charsu market-place are situated

in the

chief street leading from the gates of Altyn-davsha

The most noted

to those of Kabagat.

quarters of

the town are those of " Urda-Aldy-Soka-Kul," the place of residence of the Cashmerians and Hindoos,

and the " Aksakal," or quarter inhabited by the

The most remarkable

Badakhshans and Andianis.

buildings are the Palace of Hakim-Beg, near the

Khotan

gate,

and the Eegistan, an ancient mosque

A

with a minaret. seven

o'clock,

in

is

held every evening at

street

that runs from the

bazaar

the

Registan to the pond of

The

Nas-Hodja-Kul.

weekly bazaar, on Fridays, takes place between the Quite a street has

Chinese citadel and the town.

sprung up between the Altyn gates and those

lately

of the Chinese citadel,

where houses of refreshment

have been established; and indeed mercial activity of the place

all

may be

the com-

said to be

concentrated in this single quarter.

The chiefly

foreigners

who

Badakshanis,

and carry on a trade

reside in

who have in

their

Cashmere

town

this

own

slaves.

are

elder,

Amongst

—

1B7

Settlements in the Province of Yarhend.

the inhabitants there are besides

a

Little Thibet,

who

class

many

from

Baltis

hire themselves out to

labour, and comprise nearly all the drivers

and water-

camera.

The neighbourhood

many

Yarkend

of

by

liberated slaves of the mountain Tajek tribes

of Chitral and Vakhan,

who

the general appellation of

important villages

or

boundary

Northern are

infested

is

are

known

the

The most on

lying

settlements of

here under

" Bofiz."

Yarkend

the

district

:

Burchuk, at two hundred and fifty-seven miles

from Yarkend,

at the confluence of the

Daria with the Tarim Dolons,

who

;

Yarkend-

and Marcd-Bashi, peopled by

are governed

by

their

own Hakim-

Beg, with a Chinese garrison of 300 men. the

West

of

Yarkend

lies

The

near Lake Sarikul.

the village

(rf

To

Sarikal,

elevated nature of this

district,

and the cool atmosphere which always

prevails

here,

are

favourable

breeding of Thibet cows.

the

to

successful

To the South,

at the

base of the Kuen-Lun, near the point of which the

Tyznab

issues from

among

the mountains,

settlement of Yangi Chunjjah.

Khotan

to

Yarkend

is

On

situated

is

the

the road from

the

well-known

trading settlement of Guma, at one hundred and

—

1

5S

Travels

i/i

Central

M

sia.

thirty-three miles from Yarkend.

It

numbers two

hundred houses, and has a bazaar every Saturday.

Kuen-Lun mountains

In the lower ranges of the

are the village Sanchja and liilyan, in high repute for

their

Tyznabu

Yularjjk,

are

river

and Kargalyk,

Of

Hakim-Begs.

establishments

of

The settlements occurring along

Mongolian cows. the

breeding

extensive

all

these

-.

Taghui,

Kitl'yar,

of which have their villages,

Kargally, has three hundred and

Kargalyk,

fifty

own or

houses, and

grows a great quantity of walnuts, a thousand of

which may be purchased English.

among

for

about one shilling

There are several tombs round Yarkend

others, that of

Hodja Mahomed-Shirif

;

Pir,

and the temple of the holy hair

Altyn-Mazaz,

(Mui- Mubarak), together with the highly venerated sanctuary, of

Aftu-Moodan, situated

inside

the

town.

The Chinese

fortress lies to the

West,

at

about

one mile and a half from the Mahomedan town it is

surrounded by a wall, which

and higher than that of Kashgar. consists of 2,200

4 Khoian

is

;

both thicker

The gamson

men.

District.

—Khotan,

ding to the Chinese,

lies

or " Iltsa," accor-

between the Karakash

Statistics

of KJiotan Bistricl and Trade.

and Yurunkash

rivers

suxrounded by a low

is

it

;

159

wall, and has eight sarais, of which three are occu-

pied by foreign merchants, the others being used

by traders from

The number

of houses

The Chinese town it,

Karakash, and Yurunkash.

Ilchi,

computed

is

at I3 miles to the

lies

is

West

of

The neighbour-

with a garrison of 1,400 men.

hood of the town

18,000.

at

embellished with gardens, and

the space between Khotan and the Chinese town is

A

very thickly peopled.

that at Yarkend,

all

the trade

from the one to the

"mashru,"

A

" darai." best,

is

"biazi,"

fine

and

the

are

:

IleJd,

extremity of the district;

and

others.

population,

material

a silk

river

despatched thence to Pekin.

famous

is

manufactures of thin called

stuff

called

considered the

of nephrite,

species

obtained in

settlements

Khotan

semi-sUked

a

carpets,

concentrated, leads

is

other.

for rearing silkworms, for its felts,

road in which, like

Yurunkash, and

The most remarkable

adjoining

Eastern

the

Karakash,

Yurunkash,

These settlements have a considerable

and

are

well-known

as

places

of

commerce. 5

Aksu

District.

—The town

12,000 houses; and

is

situated

of

Aksu

at the

contains

confluence

J

60

Travels in Central Asia.

of the

Aksu and Kokshal.

wall considerably smaller

It is

surrounded by a

circumference

in

tlian

that of Kashgar, but has four gates.

In

Aksii

" Charsu"

there

are

The

caravansarais.

six

Square forms the centre of the town,

whence the chief

lined

streets,

houses of refreshment,

with shops and

Westwards

lead

to

the

Teinurchi gates, and Eastwards to the Aksil gates.

There are

five

held twice Aksii

is

medreseh

noted as being the centre point of the

no

is

general claims,

and

Daba"

leather,

important in military

less

main roads from Central China

as the

and Hi meet within

tion of "

Aksu of a

its

is

well

good

Besides

walls.

known

for its

these

produc-

quality, called " Shisha,"

both of which are exported to Khotan,

Yarkend, and Kashgar.

To

belongs the settlement of Bai

137 miles distant

Aksu

the

(in

district

Chinese, " Pai"),

to the North-East,

sheep-farming and manufacture of houses.

A bazaar is

town.

on Thursdays and Fridays.

a week,

Chinese trade, and respects,

in the

famous

felts

;

it

for its

has 500

Twenty-seven miles East of Bai, on the

frontier of the

Kuchi

soned by Chinese. to Aks^, the

district,

Of

the

most important

lies

Sairam, garri-

settlements are,

nearest

Kum-Bash and

161

Ush-Ti/rfaji Difttrid described.

A

Chinese

with four gates,

fortress,

situated at

is

A great

about two-thirds of a mile West of Aksu.

many Chinese merchants from

the

province

of

who

are

Shansi live at Aksu, besides camel-drivers, for the

most part Chinese Mussulmen.

The

garri-

a

small

son consists of 600 men.

6.

Ush-Turfan District.

—Ush-Turfan,

town, or properly settlement, consists of scattered habitations It is said to

possessing neither walls nor fortresses.

;

have forty Yuz-Begis, or centurion

consequently about 4000 houses other

Sundays.

It

Ush-Turfan

is

A

6000.

sources

chiefs,

but according to

;

bazaar

on

held

is

has neither mosques nor medresehs.

known

the excellent tobacco

for its trade in cattle, it

to the Kirghiz Hordes.

town has acquired a

produces, which

is

and

for

exported

In historical respects, this

celebrity from the fact, that in

1765, during an insurrection,

all

the inhabitants

were murdered, and 500

families

native towns settled in

who were compelled

become

it,

labourers

agricultural

from various to

A

{to)-onchi).

Chinese citadel occupies the centre of the Mussul-

man

settlement

;

it

has four gates, and

on the North side abut on a rock strongly fortified,

and

is

;

it is

its

walls

considered

garrisoned by 800 men.

M

CHAPTER Altyshah r.

The as

Historical Bevieiv.

natural features of Eastern Turkestan, exposed,

we have

by

—

VI.

colossal

just seen,

hemmed

on the East and

in

mountain ranges on the West, have

materially influenced the historial

march

of events,

and given a distinct character to Turkestan nationality.

From remote the

times, as far back as the period of

Tan dynasty, which

centuries before the

flourished

Christian

Tsian,

or

Djan-Kian,

region,

up

to the

era,

discovered

China two

in

when the

Djan-

Western

present time. Eastern Turkestan

has been under continual subjection either to China, or to one or the other of the wandering

Hordes who

time being dominant in

Mongolia.

were

for the

Early Introduction of Buddhism.

On

hand

other

the

succumbed

never

it

political influence of its

1(53

to the

Western neighbours,

even to the celebrated conqueror of Asia,

— not

—Tamer-

lane,

who, although he marched victoriously through

the

country,

did

not

succeed

in

subjugating

it.

Eastern

Turkestan

adopted the rudiments of

religious vrorship, first

from the South and

after-

wards from the West. The date of the introduction of

Buddhism

fixed it

into this country cannot be definitely

according to the evidence of Chinese writers

;

akeady existed there during the Kan dynasty.

In A.D. 140 the towns of Eastern Ttukestan formed

independent

states

Huen-Chan,

who

dynasty, a.d.

and

visited

them during the Tan

629, found that

prevalent there, and

Buddhism.

professed

generally

religion

propounded

in

temples by

priests and " Arans," or holy hermits.

tinued to hold

when

it

its

own

It con-

until the ntuth

century,

was driven out by Islamism, which spread

from Mavero-Innahar through the Bolor and Thian-

The

Shan.

became laws,

social institutions of Eastern

naturally

imbued with the

spirit

Turkestan of Islam

but ovsdng to the force of counteracting

causes,

these institutions did not assume an ex-

clusively religious character.

Islamism has never-

M 2

1

64

Drivels in Central Asia.

theless

influence over the

exercised considerable

political fate of the country.

studying

its

only by closely

introduction and development, that a

proper appreciation of the signification

It is

of the

spirit,

present

organisation,

political

and

factions of

Turkestan can be obtained, and a true cause

as-

signed for the moral influence of the Hodjas, who,

even in It

weight.

exile, retain their political

was only natural that

after so long

a pre-

dominance of Buddhism, the doctrines of Mahomet

They penetrated

should not speedily take root.

into Eastern Turkestan during the eighth century,

when Arabian merchants region, but

it

is

first

began to

visit this

a notable fact in the history of

this particular religious

movement

that the Arabs

encountered great opposition in the towns, and that their

first

converts were

among

the

nomad

population.

The Chinese make mention carried on

by the Arabs

the eighth century. sert that

of a sanguinary

in Eastern Turkestan during

Mussulman

Shamar, the

war

first

Arab

historians also as-

ruler of

Mavero-

Innahar, was killed in a war with the Chinese.

In

the

preachers,

ninth

century

or religious

several

propagandists,

Mussulmen

among

the

most renowned ofwhomwere, Sheikh-Hassan-Bosri

165

Islamism introduced in Eastern Turkestan.

and Abunassart-Samani, succeeded to Islamism the

Khans

in converting

of the wandering Hordes,

then in possession of the towns of Eastern Tur-

and who had not long before overthrown

kestan,

the dominion of the Samanides.

These converts, animated with

all

of

new

inculcating sword

in

hand the teaching

believers,

commenced by

the enthusiasm

The tombs

Mahomet.

of

the Turkestan rulers of that period the

title

preserve

of " Hazi," or Warrior for the Faith.

of these,

One

Sutuk-Bukhra-Khan, who died in the

year 429 of the Hegira, a.d.

1051,

into Turfan

Hazat, or religious war,

The

still

of

carried the

and Komul.

extensive grounds near Khotan, used exclusively

for putting to death the

gion, as also those

professors of the old reli-

between Yarkend and Yanyshar,

locally called " Shaidan," or resting places

happy, bear mournful testimony to the here as everywhere

ism was

else,

fact that,

the establishment of Islam-

accompanied with the most merciless Nevertheless

carnage.

of the

its

domination was long

confined to the Western towns.

According to

the evidence of Marco Polo, the inhabitants were idolators in the eighth century.

period,

an

independent

state

About the same was

founded

in

Eastern Turkestan, under the sway of Mongolian

166

Travels in Central Asia.

Khans

Pagan element again Hfted up

whom

under

of the Djegatai dynasty,

the

head.

its

Although Tugluk-Timur-Khan, a descendant of

Ghenghiz-Khan, who possessed the country from Hi to the Bolor and Kuen-Lun, embraced Islamism at the

hands of Seid-Rasheddin,* anno 754 of the

Hegirto, or a.d.

1376, and induced

and Uigur Emirs

was

still

many Mongolian Buddhism

to follow his example.

the prevailing form of religion, during the

succeeding century,

in all

the Eastern towns.

The

embassy sent by Shah-Rok a son of Tamerlane, China in 1420, found

in

Khamil a heathen temple

adjoining a magnificent mosque. fore

the

finally

century

sixteenth

to

It

was not be-

Mohammedism

that

succeeded in expelling Buddhism from the

confines of Eastern Turkestan.

The Mussulman

religion

must be considered

have been predominant in the Western part of region since the fourteenth century. sors of

The

to

this

succes-

Tugluk-Tiraur-Khan were zealous Mussul-

man, and granted to the descendants of Rasheddin special honours

and

privileges,

bestowing on them

likewise tracts of rich land.

The fourteenth and important, in the

fifteenth

history of

centuries

became

Central Asiatic

* Seid-Sheik, a descendant of

Mahomet.

Is-

Rise of the Power of the Hodjas.

many

lamism, by the appearance of

167

teachers

who

acquired the reputation of saints, or workers of

Samarkand

miracles.

and Bokhara were

the

centres of the religious learning of the East, and

the casuistry that sprang up there at last reached

One

Kashgar.

of

the

descendants

Seids,

of

Mahomet, Hodja-Makhturmi-Aziam, gained great celebrity,

Bokhara,

in

as

a

On

theologian.

was received with great

arriving at Kashgar, he

enthusiasm, and was presented with rich estates

by the Kashgar Khans.

After

death,

his

his

Imam-Kalian and Hodja- Isaac- Vali, enjoyed

sons,

the same respect, and became the religious heads of the

Mussulmen

Erom

this

of Eastern Turkestan.

time the Hodjas commenced to grow

in the estimation

of the people.

from the Khans, and were profoundly

honours

Each

respected by the natives. of

They received

of the

two sons

Hodja-Makhturmi-Aziam was surrounded by a

crowd of Suffis

disciples, as well as

by numerous

(Naibs), Duvans (Dervishes),

fanatical

and

pupils.

In this way two parties were gradually formed, differing not so

the

character

much on

and

doctrinal points, as in

qualities

of

their

respective

heads.

The

Ishkias,

and those of Isaac- Vali styled themselves

followers of

Imam-Kalian were

called

168

Tfftrvlx

Central Asia.

ill

Subsequently the

Isakias.

appropriated to

first

White

themselves the

name

Mountaineers

and the second, Montenegrins, or

;

of

Mont- Albanians,

or

Black Mountaineers, which distinctions have survived to the present day.

Soon

after the formation of these parties, inimi-

up between them, which

feelings sprang

cal first

at

when

partook of a religious character; but

the adherents of both parties increased in numbers,

and

the population split into

all

two

to religious dissensions there naturally

added a struggle openly declared the

for political

rians,

was speedily This rivalry

when Hodja Appak, head

itself

Mont -Albanian

power.

camps,

rival

party, assisted

of

by the Dzunga-

acquired supreme secular power, and thereby

ultimately

deprived Eastern Turkestan of

its

in-

dependence.

The Dzungarians and Chinese, taking advantage of

the

dissensions

of

the

contending

parties,

adopted the policy of supporting one against the other,

and

thus

eventually

succeeded

in

sub-

jugating the whole country.

Appak- Hodja people

;

was

much esteemed

by

the

the high reputation of the teacher and

saint attracted to

of the East,

Kashgar the Mussulman youth

who were

eager to follow his foot-

169

Parti/ Politics in Turkestan.

steps in the path of sanctity

of

;

and many

rulers

Mavero-Innahar even were numbered among

His tomb

his scholars.

many

attracts

name

own

their

as

in

pilgrims from various

from

day

Mussulman

moments

peculiar patron, call

Black

upon

his

of peril.

The Kashgar Khan of the

this

and the Eastern Turkestani, who regard

countries;

him

Kashgar to

at

Ismail, a zealous supporter

Mountaineer party,

his native country; the

Hodja

drove

Appak

retired to Cash-

mere, whence he proceeded into Thibet, where he so ingratiated himself with the Dalai-Lama, that

the latter despatched him with a letter to Galdan of Dzungaria, requesting the latter to re-estabhsh

the authority of

Galdan, Little

Appak

seizing

Bokhara

in

viceroy, with

his

family

of

the

in

Kashgar and Yarkend.

this

opportunity,

1678,

Yarkend

conquered

and appointed Appak

Kashgar Khan was carried

Galdan into captivity in the Hi region, and in the

The

for his capital.

Mussulman town

The Dalai-Lama was

by

settled

of Kuldja.

so satisfied with the obe-

dience of Galdan, that he conferred on him the title

oi Boshektu (Blessed).

From

this

time Little Bokhara, until

quest by the Chinese, was ruled by the

its

con-

Dzun-

170

IVavels in Central Asia.

who

garians,

did not interfere with the internal

administration of the country, but limited themselves to receiving a tribute of

The

per month. period,

with

from a remote

was carried on by the same heirarchy

present

at

government,

400,000 tiangas

an

notchis,

each town had

;

or

Islikaga

The

&c.

of parties

its

or ruler,

Haz-

Shanbegis,

assistant,

internal strife

continued, with

still

Hakim

as

and dissensions the result that,

although the Black Mountaineer Hodjas were very

and powerful, they were nevertheless obliged

rich

and take up

to leave Yarkend, rarily in

abode tempo-

Cashmere.

Hodja-Appak,

in

good opinion

the

their

order to reinstate himself in of

the

Mussulmen, who now

regarded him as the betrayer of his coimtry, had secular power.

to renounce his his

brother,

He summoned

Khan-Ismail-Muhamed-Emil,

from

Ush-Turfan, proclaimed him Khan, and prevailed

on him

Emil

to attack the

fell

retm-ned

Dzungarians.

on the Kalmyk with

Muhamed-

" ulusses " or camps,

30,000 prisoners of both

and a great quantity of

cattle

and booty

afterwards so frightened at his

own

;

and

sexes,

but was

intrepidity,

that he fled to the mountains, where he was killed

by one of

his

own

guides.

Wars of

the

Rival Factions.

Appak then resumed

171

the temporal power.

On

widow, Khanym-Padsha, a woman

his death, his

of determined

and ambitious character, wishing

to

secure the supreme authority for her favourite son,

Mekhdi, enlisted

and

vishes,

in

killed

her cause some fanatical der-

Appak's eldest

Hodja

son,

Yakhia, whose infant son, Ahmed-Padsha, sought refuge in the mountains.

Khanym-Padsha

was murdered

by the

shortly after

Taking advantage of the discord Appak, Akbash

—another brother

—made himself Khan

herself

dervishes. in the family of

of the late

of Yarkend,

and

Hodja

recalled the

Black Mountaineer, Hodja Daniel, from Khodjend,

where he

resided.

The Kashgarians, who were

firm adherents to the White Mountaineer cause, invited

Ahmed- Hodja among them, and proclaimed

him Khan.

An

obstinate

and sanguinary struggle now broke

out between Kashgar and Yarkend. garians, assisted

The Kash-

by the Dikokamenni Kirghizes, be-

sieged Yarkend, with the object of seizing

Ashem-Khan,

Hodja.

of Yarkend,

a

Sultan by origin, totally defeated them

;

Daniel Kirghiz

but was

himself soon afterwards forced to withdraw to his Steppe, in

Hodjas.

consequence of the intrigues

The

of the

secular government of the towns of

172

Travels in Central Asia.

Yarkend and Khotan then

into the

hands of

who had

not been

fell

Daniel-Hodja.

At

this

time the Kalmyks,

able until then to resent the inroads of the garians,

arrived at

Kash-

Yarkend with a large

force.

Daniel, with the view of gaining the favour of the

Dzungarians, joined their troops, with

all

endians, and the united forces forthwith

upon Kashgar.

After

to

Yark-

marched

encounters,

several

Kashgarians were obhged

his

open their

the

gates.

The Kalmyks appointed a Hakim-Beg, chosen by the

and led away the Kashgar Hodja

people,

Ahmed,

their

own

ally,

Daniel-Hodja, and the

milies of both, prisoners to the

fa-

Ili.

In 1720, Tzaban-Raptan restored Daniel to his native country,

towns.

On

and made him

his arrival at

ruler over the six

Yarkend the Hodja ap-

pointed governors over the towns entrusted to him,

and fixed

100,000

his

own revenue

tiangas, that of

at the

modest rate of

Appak having been 1000

tiangas from eveiy hundred of his subjects. eldest son, Djagan,

His

was a hostage with the Dzun-

garian Khans, and Daniel himself paid occasional visits to Ili.

Galdan-Chirin, on succeeding to the throne, con-

firmed the Hodja Daniel in the enjoyment of his

History of the Jirovement for Independence. 173

former Little

The

privileges.

Bokhara

vs^as,

immediate

therefore,

as

sway

over

the next result

of these changes, transferred to the descendants of

other vrords, the Black

Moun-

After the death of Daniel, Galdan-Chirin

—with

Hodja Isaac

or, in

;

taineer party.

the view of dividing the government of Little Bokhara, issued sealed patents to his children, appor-

tioning

Yarkend

to

the

eldest,

Kashgar to the second, Yusuf

Ayub

;

and Khotan

;

;

Aksii to the third,

to the youngest, Abdullah.

most celebrated of these was Yusuf, gar,

Hodja-Djagan

ruler of

The Kash-

whose mother was the daughter of a Kalmyk

Noyon, with

whom Yusuf

spent his childhood, in

Dzungaria, and thereby acquired a thorough mastery over the

Kalmyk

language, which he spoke and

much facility. who had been

wrote with Yusuf,

compelled by the

Khan

Davatsi to reside in the province of Hi, seeing the dissensions that at that period convulsed Dzungaria,

determined to take advantage of the weakness of his oppressors,

and to

liberate his country.

Under

the pretence that Kashgar was threatened by the

Dikokamenni

Kirghizes, he

obtained the

Khan

Davatsi's permission to return to his native place.

Here he put

forth all his energies for the purpose.

174 first,

Travels

of

raising

fortifying

Central Ami.

ill

town

tlie

;

and secondly,

and organizing an army with

Bogd-Khan

plied to the

Hakim

for troops, to

The Kalmyks had

Dzungarians.

Begs, on whose fidelity

and who were bound ambition.

Two

to

possible

all

when Amursana

This was in 1754,

speed.

them by the

tie

ap-

subdue the

latterly

they

of

appointed

could of

rely,

common

of these, Abdul- Vakhab, of Aksu,

and Khodja Sybek, of Ush-Turfan, acquainted the

Kalmyks with the

real cause of the warlike prepa-

rations at Kashgar.

Beg, islihaga Artosh, to

of

fall

They

Kashgar,

and Absatar-Beg, of

upon the Hodja, and put him Mechet

death, while at his devotions in the this plot

was discovered, and

Hudoyar-Beg, executed.

Hudoyar made

Hudoyar-

also incited

its

to

but

;

chief instrument,

Absatar and the son of

their escape to

Hi

;

and, appearing

before Davatsi, declared that the

inhabitants of

Kashgar and Yarkend had thrown

off the

Dzun-

garian yoke, and that the

Hodja had put the Ishkaga

to death for his fidelity

to the Dzungarians.

Kalmyks had posal,

not at that

time a force at their

and Davatsi therefore determined

The design formed by the Kalmyks, in

dis-

to send an

emissary to ascertain the true position of

Hodja

The

affairs.

of seizing the

Kashgar, was thus frustrated

;

but

at

175

Outbreak of the Revolution.

Yarkend, assisted by the Hakim, Hazi-Beg, they succeeded

Hodja Djagan,

arresting the

in

after

having enticed him into the Hakim's house. This inteUigence was received with outburst

indignation

of

now

Yusuf

Kashgar.

at

them

assembled the people and informed the time had

a violent

arrived

for

that

shaking off the

thraldom of the unbelievers, and represented

them the hopeless condition

of Dzungaria.

appeal was received with enthusiasm.

to

This

Timbrels

were sounded over the gates of the town, and the Kashgarians swore to remain true to

their de-

termination of reconquering the lost liberties of

The Hodja Yussuf,

their country.

as an

Mussulman, proposed to the people should convert three hundred

who

lay

encamped

Kalmyk

ardent

that

they

merchants,

in the vicinity of the tovni, to

Islamism, and ordered them to be slaughtered in case they refused to adopt

it.

A

small

number

of "

acted as police officers or " kazakans

Olots,

who

in the

towns of Little Bokhara, were sent back to

their country to acquaint the

Kalmuk

men

envoy,

carry off the

in

to

of Dzungaria

Yusuf then despatched

with what had occurred. one thousand

Khan

Burchuk, to attack

case

the

he should attempt

Hodja Djagan

to Hi,

and

also

to

made

170

Travels in Coiiral Asia.

preparations for sending a large force to Yarkend.

Hodja Sadyk, son of Djagan, who had eluded capture, gathered together at

Khotan

7000 men

body

and, joined by a

;

He

marched against Yarkend.

in

two days,

of Kirghizes,

him

carried with

the family of Hazi-Beg in chains, intending to put

every individual of

harm

father.

Hazi-Beg, learning their

decided

steps

befal his

and

fate,

the

and death should

to torture

it

taken

was thoroughly distracted; and all

the

more

critical

by Yusuf,

that the Yarkendians

exhibited their discontent

at

was

his position

his

openly

His

conduct.

only alternative was, therefore, to ask pardon of

Hodja Djagan, an extremely kind and weak man.

With he

tears in his eyes

appeared

had transpired

permission to retinue,

and

him,

his head,

easily obtained

Hazi then informed Djagan of the

forgiveness.

events that

before

and the Koran on

and

kill

at

Kashgar, and asked

the Dzungarian envoy and his

The

to raise the standard of Islam.

Hodja answered

that an unbeliever could only be

killed in

and ordered the Kalmyks to be

battle,

escorted out of the town under a strong

warning them never

Yusuf

in the

guard,

to visit the country again.

meanwhile

Kokan and Bokhara,

sent,

to acquaint

ambassadors those

cities

to

of

Subjugation of Bziaigaria by the Chinese. their emancipation

177

from the Dzungarian yoke, and

He

to request assistance.

hkewise appealed to the

Chiefs of the Andijan Kirghizes, at the head of

whom was

Kibat-Mirza.

The independence, however, was not of long duration.

of the three towns

Events occurred at this

time in Dzungaria, which exercised an important,

indeed decisive influence over Little Bokhara.

1775, Amursana appeared

In at

the head

of

Dzungaria,

in

Chinese troops,

before

whom

Davatsi, unable to offer effectual resistance,

with three hundred to

Ush-Turfan.

men through

The governor

Hodjam-Beg, delivered him up which

service

In this

fled

Muzart pass

the of

that

town,

to the Chinese, for

he was created a prince.

manner Dzungaria,

after

having been for

so long a time the terror of the neighbouring States, as well as a source of

danger to the Chinese, was

subdued by them without any opposition.

The after

troops of the

the

first

Celestial

campaign, leaving behind at

their General, Bandi, with five

to organize a

co-operation established

new system of

Empire returned

at

hundred Manchurs,

of government with the

Amursana.

himself

Ili,

Ili,

subjugating the emancipated

Amursana, thought

having

of

again

towns of Kashgar

N

17S

Travels

ill

Central Asia.

Yarkend, and Khotan, but as he was not able to

send against them a large body of troops, the

and Hodja Sybek of

ruler of Aksii, Abdul- Vahab,

Ush-Turfan, suggested that the children of Ahmet-

Hodja

of Kashgar,

employed

who were

then at Hi, should be

They

for this purpose.

said that

Ahmed's children were sent with

of

detachment,

and with

made

should be

rulers,

promise

the

surrender,

as

particularly attached their

adherents

in

a

small

that

they

Kashgar would be taken

without resistance, that the likewise

one

if

other towns

were

Hodjas, and

to these

other

the

would

Kashgarians

the

towns

that

were

numerous.

With

the consent of the Chinese General, Bandi,

the sons of

who riety

Ahmed, Burhaneddin and Khan-Hodja,

subsequently

obtained

Chinese

in

history,

a

melancholy noto-

were

summoned

to

Kuldja from Iren-Habargan, ^Yhere they lived in

The

exile.

eldest of these, Burhaneddin,

marched

with an army consisting of Olots, Turkestani, and a small

number

youngest, Hi.

of Chinese, to Aksii

Khan-Hodja, remained

Burhaneddin reinforced

and proceeded

to

his

as

while the

;

hostage

army

at

at

AksA,

Ush, where he was joyfully

received by the inhabitants.

Preparation for Battle by both Sides.

The news

179

of the military preparations that were

being made by the Black Mountaineer Hodjas, so frightened Burhaneddin and his

confederates, that

they delayed their farther advance. consisted of

5000 Musselmen from Kucha, Kksh,

Turfan, and Dolon

;

1 000

Dzungarians,

by the Zaisan Dan-Chin, and headed by Turuntai-Dajen. ficient to

Their force

commanded

400 Chinese,

of

These were not

suf-

combat the numerous armed bands of Yark-

end, Kashgar, Khotan, and Yanyshahr, which were

strengthened by the neighbouring Kirghiz Hordes.

In the meantime the news reached Yarkend of the arrival of the troops at Aksii.

The

inhabitants of

the former town thereupon resolved to despatch strong

against

force

them.

Yusuf-Hodja,

a of

Kashgar, had abdicated his power, and lived then in

Yarkend.

He

strenuously endeavoured to dissuade

the Yarkendians from their intention, urging that

Burhaneddin would not attempt ther,

and that

to

in case the expedition

proceed

were defeated,

which, seeing the Mont- Albanians might prove

and the Kirghizes could not be very far from improbable,

—the

far-

relied on,

false,

was

enemy would be

encouraged to attempt more daring and important enterprises.

by

The Yarkendians, however, stimulated

a love for their Hodjas, burned with impatience

N 2

180

Travels in Central Asia.

AksA,

to marcli to

seize the town,

and

to stifle the

machinations of the White Mountaineer Hodjas in the bud.

A

kendians,

and Kirghizes, commanded by Hodja-

numerous

force of Khotanians, Yar-

Ahi, the eldest son of Djagan Huda-Berdy, as also

Shanbegi

of Yarkend,

and the Kargalyk

Mirgus-Beg, accordingly directed

its

ruler,

march towards

Yanyshahr, and being joined there by further forcements, proceeded through Artysh along

rein-

the

route to Ush.

The death meantime.

him

of

Hodja occurred

Yusuf

in

the

Hodja Abdulla was chosen

to succeed

Kashgar, under the

of Pasha-

as ruler of

Hodja, after having been

lifted

title

on a carpet, accord-

ing to the custom of the country, and at once pro-

ceeded

to

command

despatch of

his

Kashgar troops under the

brother,

Hodja-Mulin, to the

assistance of the Yarkendians.

The united end,

and

forces of Kashgar, Yanyshahr, Yark-

Khotan,

Kakshal, reached Ush-Turfan

town.

Aksu

and

and beseiged

that

passing through

The Black Mountaineer Hodjas

putation to the besieged, calling on

name

of the Koran,

tors, to forget all

and of

their

animosity, join the

and march altogether

to Hi.

sent a de-

them

common common

in the

ancescause,

To Burhaneddin they

Defeat, by Treachery, of the Allied Forces. 181

promised to yield possession of Kashgar, Aksii, and Turfan rights.

and the Begs were

;

hereditary

offered

The deputation found Burhaneddin

rounded by Chinese, Kalmyks, and by Begs, native writers have

He

stigmatised as

'

impious

told the deputies to advise the Black

aineer Hodjas to repair to Hi

the

of the viceroy of

Amursana.

There

sur-

whom '

men.

Mount-

and seek forgiveness

Emperor

of China,

were many

of

the

and of

White

Mountaineer party in the camp of the besiegers, particularly

among

the

While negotia-

officers.

tions were being carried on, these into

The

secret

communication

Kirghizes,

went over afterwards

in a

latter entered

Burhaneddin.

with

in the first action that

body

followed

to the

by

was fought,

enemy, and were shortly

the majority of the

with the troops under their command. it

was with great

Begs

Ultimately

difiiculty that the leaders alone of

the expedition escaped capture

by the Kirghizes

to the

very

;

they were pursued gates

of Kashgar.

Burhaneddin, encouraged by the completeness of this

unexpected success, pressed forward to Kashgar.

The to

inhabitants of that

town issued out

in crowds

meet him, and refused to obey the Black Moun-

taineer

Hodjas, to crown whose misfortune, the

Andijan Kirghizes,

summoned under

the leadership

182

Travels in Central Asia.

of Kabat-Mirza to defend the town, declared that

they would not fight againt Burhaneddin.

Under

circumstances,

these

the

Montenegrin

Hodjas were obliged to evacuate Kashgar; leaving

which they hastened

Hosh-Kaifiak,

Hakim-Beg

tisan of the Black

to

on

Yarkend, while

of Kashgar,

and

a par-

Mountaineer cause, emigrated to

The Mont- Albanian Hodja was thus admit-

Kokan.

ted into Kashgar without oppposition and greeted

with the joyful cries of the populace, who, in honour of the event, sounded city

gates.

drums and trumpets over the

Burhaneddin

Yarkend, having

first

advanced

then

appointed

Kirghiz

the

His army con-

Kabada, Plakim-Beg of Kashgar. sisted only of

600 Kalmyks, and 200 Chinese.

Montenegrin Hodjas, perceiving

to

all

The

the danger of

their situation, resolved to quit their country, and,

under pretence of a pilgrimage to Mecca, made preparations for departing with their families.

Hodja Djagan was

a benevolent

man, and encouraged learnmg.

and an upright

His reign

is

com-

pared by a contemporary writer to that of MirzaHussein.

The Yarkendians were nearly

Black Mountain this ruler

When

faction,

and the private

all

of the

virtues of

endeared him to them more strongly.

he declared

his

iu+ention

of leaving

the

Fatally facile Tmiper of Hodja-JDjagan.

him with

country, the people besought

abandon them

their eyes not to

juncture, and last

tears

such a

in

critical

swore to defend themselves to the the infidels and the impious Mont-

against

They only asked

Albanians.

at

183

dismissal

for the

of

Hazi-Beg, the Hakim, and of Niazi the " Ishkaga," as the former

had already proved himself untrust-

worthy, while the latter was an avowed partizan of the enemy. facility of

Djagan consented

to remain,

but from

temper and softness of character, allowed

Hazi-Beg and Niazi

to retain their posts.

The Mont- Albanian Hodja, appearing imder the walls of Yarkend,

composed of

sent a deputation to

several Begs,

and a Kalmyk Zaisan.

the town

Chinese Mandarin,

a

They were presented

the Hodja Djagan, having been

first

to

obliged to go

through the degrading ceremony of licking the threshold of the palace.

To

Biirhaneddin's sum-

mons, in the name of the Bogdo-Khan and that of

Amursana,

to surrender

and place himself under the

protection of China, he answered that, as an inde-

pendent Mussulman prince, he would

listen to

no

" terms, but would wage against them a " Hazat or religious war.

The

letter

which conveyed the

terms of Burhaneddin he ordered to be torn and

thrown into the

fire.

1

^4

Travels

The seige

city

in.

Central As la.

was thereupon invested, and during the

which ensued, the beseiged were always suc-

cessful in their sallies,

and maintained

ground until the Ishkaga Niaz offer of the

—

their vantage-

allured

by the

governorship ofYarkend, andHazi-Beg,

chief of the Hodja's courtiers, formed a daring

dangerous conspiracy, which, notwithstanding

and

its dis-

covery and the indignation of the people, was allowed to fall

through without leading to their

arrest,

owing

to the Hodja's infatuated clemency.

The defence was maintained longer

;

for

some time

but Ynayat, one of the Hodja's sons, being

kUled in a

sortie,

the Governor, Hazi-Beg, at last

resolved to carry out his long- cherished scheme of traitorously delivering the

He

the enemy.

town into the hands of

entered into secret negotiations

with Burhaneddin, and received from him a pro-

mise that he should be made hereditary Beg in

Yarkend. necessity of

The

traitor

urged on the Hodja the

making a general

sortie,

on the ground

that the townspeople were suffering severely from

a want of provisions.

The Hodja, who did not

penetrate the designs of the Beg, called on inhabitants,

cause of the

both young and Hazat.

In

old,

to

answer to

arm

all

the

in the

this appeal,

40,000 Yarkendians issued out of the town and

185

Flight of Bjagan-Hodja.

drove the enemy from their position. critical flight,

moment, dropped

Hazi, at this

and took to

his standard,

producing general consternation among his

The

followers,

ending in a complete rout.

ghizes, led

by Kaborda, who had remained in

fell

reserve,

on the retreating Yarkendians with these fresh

troops,

and the

Buruts,

who were crowded man under the spears

The remaining

lost heart after this

town

while Hazi-Beg

still

The Hodja Djagan had

between putting him to death or

town himself: he preferred the

quitting the

During the

of the

inhabitants of the

disaster,

continued his intrigues. to choose

at the

latter,

gates, fell almost to a

now

Kir-

night,

all

the Hodja families

latter.

left

Yark-

end by the Mahazar gates, and proceeded along the Kargalyk road to the mountains, on

their

way

to

India.

On

the following day, the Yarkendians, finding

that the Hodjas

had

fled,

opened the

gates,

and

Hazi-Beg, exulting in his treachery, led Burhaneddin in triumph into the town.

The new Hodja

immediately despatched a body of 500 the fugitives,

who were

men

after

overtaken just as they were

preparing to cross the river Zarafshan.

The Hodjas

defended themselves desperately, and one of them, Erke, son of Yusuf Hodja, was killed in the conflict.

186

Travels in Central Asia.

At length they but

effected their passage over the river,

so exhausted a condition

in

that

they were

Only one young

unable to prosecute their journey.

prince of this family, Nazar, reached India with

two companions

;

the remainder surrendered.

them

Kirghizes, after plundering

The

of everything they

had, brought them to Yarkend, where they were

put to death a few days

all

after their arrival.

Such were the sanguinary means by which the

Mont- Albanians once more acquired the ascendency. Subsequently, in 1758, Burhaneddin, assisted by his brother,

which

Khan-Hodja, rose in insurrection, of

the circumstances are to be gleaned from

all

Chinese historians.

which lasted three

After an obstinate struggle,

Burhaneddin and the

years,

Hodja Djagan, defeated by Chaokh, the Tzian-Tziun of Hi, fled to Badakshan, where they were slain by

order of Sultan-Shah, niler of that place, and their

heads sent to the Chinese camp.

Of

all

the family of Appak,

Burhaneddin,

—

four

were

prisoners

From

—Sarym-Sak, killed

in

or Saali-Hodja, escaped,

battle,

by the Chinese and sent this

only one son of

and two

taken

to Pekin.

time Little Bokhara has continued a

province of the Chinese Empire.

The Chinese,

in

order to consolidate their conquests in the Western

Clunese Policy of Colonisation.

187

founded in 1764 the town of Hoi-Yuan-

region,

Cheu, on the river Hi.

Dzungaria having been

depopulated by the massacre of half a million of Olots,

was

by Chinese from the province of

settled

Khan-su, and to

increase

the

population,

converted into a place of exile for criminals. the protection of the country,

Manchur

was For

soldiers

of the green banner were also transferred thither,

and colonies established, of Daurs, in the Hi

sulman

were

families

agriculturists,

Sibos,

Solons,

and

Seven thousand Mus-

district.

forcibly

converted

into

and the remnant of the extirpated

Dzungarians were country to roam

allotted

a certain

extent

The Government

in.

of

of

the

country was confided to a Tzian-Tziun, with three lieutenants gatai,

;

the residence of one being at Tarba-

and that of another

The Chinese showed of the country, as great

its

in

Little

Bokhara.

great caution in the treatment

population had fought with

determination in the attempt to assert their

independence.

The

internal government

on the same footing, and

it

was only

was

left

for maintain-

ing the peace of the country that Chinese garrisons

were

stationed

in

the

most important towns.

Pickets were also posted in such localities as were best

suited

to

guard the

frontier,

and

stations

188

Travels in Central Asia. travel-

were established for ensuring rapidity in ling.

This successful subjugation of Dzungaria and Little

Bokharia infused into the Chinese a military

and

spirit

thirst

for

During

conquest.

the

Government of Tzian-Lun they apparently desired to re-enact the scenes of the

years

Tan dynasty.

In the

1756, 1758, and 1760, bodies of Chinese

troops entered the territories of the Middle Horde.

The

fall

of Dzungaria, once so powerful as to be a

perpetual menace to every country adjacent, and the conquest

of

Little

Bokhara, caused a panic

throughout the whole of Asia, and strengthened a curious

Mussulman

superstition, that the Chinese

would one day conquer the whole

globe,

there would be an end to the world. diate result

of the

general uneasiness

when

The immewas that

Ablai, the head of the Middle Horde, Nurali of the Little

Horde, and the Burut chiefs hastened to

negotiate with the Celestial conqueror.

Ablai, in

1766, acknowledged himself a vassal of the Bogdo-

Khan, and received the

title

sent an embassy to Pekin.

of prince.

The

Edenia-Bi, in 1758, and after

ruler of

him

Nurali

Kokan,

his successor,

Narbuta-Bi, likewise recognized the protectorate of the

Son of Heaven.

Apprehemmis Notwithstanding Asiatics

were

The general

when

in

excited by the Chinese.

189

this apparent submission, the

a

of

state

dissatisfaction

chronic

reached

agitation.

height,

its

some Chinese mandarins,

at the

head of 130 men, presented themselves

before

in

1762,

Sultan Ablai

and

Middle Horde,

them

Abdul-Mahmet-Khan,

that Tzian-Lun

the

purpose of acquainting

the

for

of

intended

the

hi

ensuing

spring to send an army to Turkestan and Samarcand,

and had therefore

sent

men, horses, oxen and sheep Erdenia-Baty,

requisitions

for

for the troops.

who had then

seized possession

of Tashkend, the ruler of Khodjend, Fazyl-Bi, and

the independent Kirghiz letter

to

Ahmet-Shah

Sultans,

of AfFghan,

despatched a the

greatest

potentate of the East, imploring him to save the

Mussulman world from son of Burhaneddin

and the Kashgar emigrants

travelled through all the for

similar

Mussulman The

assistance.

States, asking

fear

inspired

the Chinese was indeed so great, that tral Asiatic

rulers

The

the invading infidels.

the

by

Cen-

buried theu' mutual animosity,

and formed a common

league,

at

the head of

which was Ahmet, ruler of Candahar, the founder of the Turan dynasty.

Affghan troops

arrived

in

1763,

and were

1

90

Travels in Central Jsia.

stationed between saries

man

Kokan and Tashkend.

Emis-

were despatched by Ahmet to the Mussul-

States, caUing

on

true believers to join the

all

" Hazat," or fight for the faith.

between

intercourse

ttie

Chinese Mas broken

off,

Central-Asiatics

demand

to

The embassy

the restitution

was badly received

Turkestan,

and

and the Kirghizes were

pressed to follow this example.

by Ahmet

commercial

All

of

Eastern

Pekin.

at

sent

The

Turkestani yearning for freedom, solemnly avowed to attempt their

own

liberation.

of Ush-Turfan, calculating on

1765

rose in in

in

The

inhabitants

jMussulman assistance,

open insurrection, and the town

consequence of

this

was completely destroyed.

The AfFghan Shah was unfortimately engaged this period in a

war with the Sikhs

Asiatic rulers, unless supported

;

at

and the other

by him, dared not

openly resist the Chinese.

The

league,

results,

Chinese

though unattended by any

practical

had, however, the effect of deterring the

from

attempting

fmiher

conquests.

Badakshan, alone, consigned to the curses of

Mussulmen,

for the

murder there

incurred the wrath of the faithful.

all

of the Hodjas,

An

Affghan

detachment, consisting of 16,000 men, devastated this

territory,

and

its

ruler,

Sultan Shah,

was

;

Confederacy acjainst Chinese

executed in

191

Eivfe/n^ion.

His previous treatment of

retaliation.

the Hodjas brought on

all

the misfortunes that

weigh over the country even to the present day.

The extension

of Chinese dominion to the

ward was limited by the

natiiral

West-

boundaries of

Eastern Turkestan, and was further kept in check

by

a jealous confederation of the native rulers.

On

the North-West, the Chinese frontier adjoined the

camping-grounds of the Kirghizes and Buruts, and

The

presented but few natural barriers. tical inhabitants

on the North-Westem confines

voluntarily sought the protection of the

Somewhat

later,

viz.

the Kirghizes, the licence to

less fana-

in

Bogdo Khan.

1763, on the demand of

Bogdo Khan gave them formal

roam over the lands formerly occupied

by the Dzungarians, namely, the Steppes between Lake Balkash and the Dzungarian Alatau range.

The Chinese,

in return,

demanded

of the Kirghizes

one out of every hundred head of horses and

and one sheep out of every thousand. ments were annually sent to

two from

Hi,

respectively.

cattle,

Detach-

collect this tribute

and one from Tarbagatai and Kashgar

One

of the Hi detachments

through Karatal to Ayaguz, where

from Tarbagatai

;

the

second,

Santash, proceeded along the

it

marched

joined that

passing

over the

Northern shore of

1

92

Travels in Central

Lake Issyk-Kul, turned

its

As KJ.

Western extremity, and

then traversing the Zaiiku pass, ascended the course of the left

Naryn

bank the

to the place river

where

it

on

receives

its

Shar-Krat-ma, where a bridge

existed.

The Kashgar detachment,

clearing

after

the

Terekty pass, ascended the Aksai plateau, emerged

through the Bish-Bilchir mountains on the

river

Atbash, and then gained the Naryn by way of the pass formed by the

course of the Shar-Krat-ma.

These were accompanied throughout almost entire

their

campaign by Chinese merchants, who bartered

their goods for cattle.

The Chinese opened

a trade

with the Kirghizes at Kuldja and Chuguchak, and the

Bogdo Khan used

Khans

in their authority

Tian-Tziun bore the of the

the

Kirghiz

to

confirm

by

special patents.

title

The

of Commander-in-Chief

generation of foreign

Khans

;

Chinese regulations respecting foreign

and

in

the

relations, a

paragraph was added, determining the order of sending Kirghizes and Buruts to Court, and pro-

nouncing the penalty of death against

all

nomads

creating disturbances.

After the frightfiil vengeance taken for the insurrection at Ush,

Eastern Turkestan was obliged to

submit to the Chinese, and to bear the imposts

Appearance of Russia in Central Asia. exacted from until

193

This state of things continued

it.

1825, when the authority of the

simultaneously began to

Chinese

be weakened in

Little

Bokhara and among the Buruts and Kirghizes.

The appearance rivers

of Russian troops

on the seven

and on the Bogu camping-grounds, destroyed

their influence over the Kirghizes

and Buruts, and

the insurrection of Djengir Hodja, a descendant of

Sarym-Sak, in Little Bokharia,

sufficiently

proved

to the- Central Asiatics that the Chinese were not so

formidable as they had previously been supposed to be.

From

the foregoing sketch

it

will

be perceived

that the towns of Eastern Turkestan, situated to the

Eastward of Kuchi, did not take part political

in

any of the

disturbances that agitated this

country,

dominion of the Hodjas.

especially during the

In

consequence of their close proximity to China, they

were exposed to the immediate pressure of that Empire.

Chinese

there during the

Turkman

state,

Han

military

settlements

existed

dynasty, and subsequently a

called

Oi-Hor,

was created

in

Turfan and Khamil, under the dominion of China.

During the Yuan dynasty, Khamil and Turfan to the share of Hubelai, while the other Little

Bokhara passed

fell

towns of

to the children of Djegaiat.

194

Travels in Central Asia.

Afterwards,

when

Bokhara

Little

enjoyed

independent government, the Eastern country was

this

of

Min

of

under subjection to the house

still

was only towards the

it

;

portion

an

close of this

own

resources

and became subject

to the Dzungarians.

During

the

Government of the Manchur

dynasty that

first

was abandoned

it

years of the

dynasty,

the

Beg

Khamil acknowledged the

of

supremacy of China,

and the Emperor Kan-si visited

The inhabitants

that town in person.

with

Beg,

their

to its

Amil-Hodja,

of Turfan,

by the

despoiled

Dzungarians, threw themselves under the protection

them

of the to the

Emperor

who

Yun-Chen,

towns of Ansi-Cheu and Sha-Cheu, in

the vicinity of the Chinese wall, and

1755 their

was only in

it

that they were aUoAved to retiu-n

own

reason,

showed

The

country.

had not extended this

deported

therefore,

a preference

influence of the Hodjas

these

to

parts,

that

for

again to

the

and

it

for

Chinese altvays

Turkestani

the

was

of the

Eastern towns, to the extent even of granting them exclusive privileges.

The rulers

Khamil received the hereditary (princes),

of Ush-Turfan and

titles of

Tziun-Vans

and the Emperor Tzian-Lun, with the

view of acquiring fresh claims on the allegiance of the natives, married a

Khamil

princess.

Merciless Secerities of the Chinese-.

Although

this policy

1

95

on the part of the Chinese was

attended with success in the Eastern portion of Eastern Turkestan, the Western towns, having formerly

enjoyed greater

liberties,

could not adapt themselves

to Chinese thraldom. Inspired by a love of freedom familiar with warfare,

fanaticism,

and imbued with rehgions

hatred towards the Chinese.

proved to China in

its

a

bore

the inhabitants

The

deep-seated

XJsh rebellion

insecure tenure of these towns

which peace could only be preserved by constant

intimidation,

and by stringent enforcement

most merciless

police regulations.

of the

Distrusting the

population of the Six Towns, the Chinese appointed natives

of

Khamil and Turfan, on

whom

they

could rely, to the highest local posts, and began to

The

maintain powerful garrisons in the country. terror inspired

by the massacre

of Ush-Turfan

of the inhabitants

and a wide-spread

belief

in

the

invincibility of the Chinese, deterred the population

of

the

Six

Towns from

rising in

open revolt

against their oppressors, whose severity

and

extor-

tion tried their patience severely. In this deplorable state

of

affairs

the

people regarded the

Hodjas with particular veneration. still

exiled

These were

enabled to maintain some sort of correspond-

ence with their native land, as the Chinese, although o 2

196

Travels in Central Asia.

introducing with their rule a system of exclusiveness,

were nevertheless obliged to throw open the frontier

towns of Little Bokhara

Central

six

purpose of

Buruts and inhabitants of the

trading with the other

for the

Asiatic

The

States.

privileges

accorded to foreign traders prove that the Chinese

were aware of the advantages, and

alive to

necessity of commercial intercourse.

The Chinese

tariff

was so framed that

the

one-thirtieth of the cattle

brought by foreigners was exacted in kind, while the Turkestani and

nomad

subjects of China paid

one-twentieth.

The

right

trade was not extended to

of free

Khamil, Tarfan, Karashahr, and Kuchi, an dious

distinction

which

their

population

more

only

seemed

effectually

to

invi-

bind

to the exUed

Hodjas. Affairs

IS 25.

continued in this state up to the year

The Turkestani

veiled their strong discon-

tent,

and patiently bore

until

1816 that

displayed.

In

their

fate.

their dissatisfaction

that

year

the Montenegrin party, of Tashmalyk, one

Ziaveddin,

who

It

was not

was openly

Ahund

of

lived in the settlement

hundred and twenty miles from

Kashgar, raised the standard of ing into the mountains,

made

revolt,

and

retreat-

repeated raids against

Ineffectual Bisinffs of the Native Factions.

the

Chinese,

in

which he was

Notwithstanding

Kirghizes.

cution, the insurrection

Ashriab-Beg,

was

carried on

who being likewise made

long experienced the same

by the

assisted

bis capture

and exe-

by

his son

prisoner, ere

Subuheddin, the

fate.

infant son of Ziaveddin, was sent to Pekin,

put to death on attaining

not attended with any important results, as

as

having been the

Mountaineer

patriotic party, but selves

who

had

then

represented the

subsequently attached them-

to the Chinese on the appearance of the

White Mountaineer Hodjas throne

it

only remarkable

it is

outbreak of the Black

last

faction,

;

and

This rising was

full age.

not been headed by a Hodja

197

claimants for the

The Black Mountaineers,

Kashgar.

of

as

although they hate the Chinese, regard the White

Mountaineers with aversion, as

is

for

many

among more

gar,

life

in

Kokan,

after

years through the different

in order to

whence he derived

grins then

and

civilized

The Hodja Sarym-Sak,

territories of Central Asia, settled

of his

animosity

greater

the custom

people and nations.

wandering

still

commenced

towards the end

be nearer to Kash-

his revenue.

The Montene-

to emigrate to

Kokan, and

Central Asia was gradually overrun by Kashgarians.

They gave exaggerated

descriptions of the misfor-

198

Travels

ill

Central Asia.

tunes of their country, and of the injustice and oppression of the Chinese, and complained that the infidels carried off their

wives and daughters, and

observance of

prohibited the free

their

religious

rites.

The unfortunate and sanguinary

fate of the

two

Hodjas of Kashgar, had always excited the symIn the beginning of the

pathies of the Asiatics.

year 1820 the question of independence was agaiij agitated throughout Central Asia.

became the objects of imiversal

contributions for the projected

The

the amount

Mussulman

effect

;

of the offerings,

rians in the

light of

exploits

it

collecting

" Hazat," or holy

drew

in

Public recitation from the

which that Sovereign

against

youthful generation that into

tears, increased

and placed the Kashga-

the

forbidden at Bokhara, because

forays

their

martyrs in the ejes of the

population.

book of Abu-Musmil, his

and

description of the fate of their country

produced the desired

lates

respect,

town to town

emissaries proceeded from

war.

The Kashgarians

it

unbelievers, it

re-

was

so excited the

induced many to make

Persia for attaining the pious distinc-

tion of a " Hazi," or meeting a meritorious death as

" Sheids," who, according to the

transported

straight

to

Paradise.

Koran,

are

Bokhara was

Insurrection of Djenffir-Hodja in 1822.

then

peace

at

with Persia, but

this

199

infatuation

threatened to produce a rupture.

The re-conquest the

Emir

of

of Badakshan

by Murat-Beg,

Kunduz, who deported the inhabitants

of this beautiful country to his

own

morasses, was

undertaken, as the Asiatics affirm, out of respect for

memory

the

Hodjas,

of the

as

Murat-!6eg was

Sarym-Sak had three sons:

related to Sarym-Sak.

Myat-Yusuf-Hodja,Pahaveddin-Hodja, and Djengir-

whom

Hodja, of

the eldest resided at Bokhara.

After the migration of the Hodjas to Kokan, the Chinese,

By means

Khan.

opened negotiations with

1813,

in

of rich gifts, the emissaries of

empire induced him to maintain a

the Celestial

watch over the Hodjas,

strict

its

for

which

service

they engaged themselves to pay an annual subsidy of

200 yambs (£3660

?)

Djengir-Hodja was born in 1783.

of the weak-

Chinese, and knowing

the devotion

of energy

ness

of the

to rise in

Omar

Kokan

sense.

arms.

Profiting

by the death

Khan, in 1822, Djengir escaped from

to the

Kirghizes,

paign

and

population to his family, he deter-

of the native

of

was a

Aware

man

mined

He

camping grounds of the Dikokamenni

and made preparations

against

Kashgar.

for

a

cam-

Djengir thus laid the

Travels in Central Asia.

2 (JO

foundation

disturbances

those constant

for

that

They

distract the country to the present day.

are

regarded as rebellions by the Chinese, while by the Asiatics they are

termed " Hazat," or holy wars.

out hawking near

T\T3ile

formed

the

resolution

Kokan,

Djengir

first

of attacking Kashgar, and

proceeding straight to the Dikokamenni Kirghizes, prevailed on

them

to

him

assist

in the attempt.

Suranchi, head of the Kirghiz tribe of Chon-Bagysh,

marched

to the town,

where he plundered the ad-

jacent villages, but was speedily forced to beat a

After the miscarriage of this enterprise,

retreat.

Djengir wandered in the mountain

territories of the

the Kirghiz " Ulusses," until he

Bolor,

and among

fell in

with the Kirghizes of the Sayak

influential chiefs,

ardent supporters.

tribe.

Its

Atantai and Tailak, became his

The upper course

of the Naryn,

the place of gathering of the Kirghiz camps, be-

came

the

permanent place of residence of

Hodja, and he

the

succeeded in gaining, among the

nomads, the reputation of an inspired

saint.

The

Kirghizes of the Thian-Shan have always taken a lively

interest in the

from

quired

Hodjas

;

its

aflFairs

of Kashgar, and ac-

inhabitants

a respect

for

the

they are mostly adherents of the Mont-

Albanian party.

Important Successes of Bjengir-Hodja. with

Djengir,

several forays

to

make

partisans,

on Kashgar, but they

One

successful.

marauding

his

201

made

proved un-

all

encouraged him

event, however,

and increased the num-

further attempts,

ber of his followers.

The Chinese, with a view his inroad at

Solons

and

Amban,

to

and above

under the command of

make

an

a sudden attack on Atantia's camp,

to secure

designed with great

detachment up the to the

stop to

one blow, despatched a body of 500 Sibos,

all

of putting a

Djengir.

craft.

The plan was

Kirghiz guides led the

river Toin, across

Chadyr-Kul,

banks of the Naryn, somewhat below Fort

Kurtki, where lay the

encampment

The Chinese marched only by night, proach was

of

Atantia.

so that their ap-

Djengir was then

not discovered.

fortunately absent from the camp, and the Chinese, after

plundering everything they could, marched

On

what had occurred on

his

return, Djengir, at the head of the Kirghizes,

who

back.

learning

had been away with him, pursued the Chinese, and overtook

them

in

a

retreating

narrow

defile.

Bi-Chebyldy, of the Basyz branch, attacked them

with such vigour, that only one Chinese succeeded in

making

his escape

;

the others were slaughtered

with their General on the spot.

This victory was

202

Travels in Central Asia.

regarded as a miracle, and Djengir began to adopt

more the

Khan

cess,

He hastened

decisive measures.

of

Kokan and

to acquaint

other rulers of his suc-

and sent emissaries

to the different

camping

grounds of the Uzbek, Kaisak, and Burnt

The whole year

of

1825 was passed

in hostile pre-

Kokan

Kashgar emigrants,

parations.

tribes.

Sepoys,

Uzbeks, Kipchaks, Turks, and other Mussulmen warriors,

and mountain Tadjiks

in their picturesque

black garbs, hastened to range themselves under the

banner of the Appaks, while many Kokanians, even including

officials, left

to take part in

their posts

the " Hazat."

In the Spring of 1856, Djengir with his troops,

commanded by

Isa-Dakhta,

governor of Andijan,

formerly

encamped

military

at the village of

His army having been reinforced by

Bishkirim.

the inhabitants of the Kashgar villages, he attacked the Chinese

who had marched

to

meet him under

the leadership of the Hi Tian-Tziun, and entirely

routed them on the plain of Davlet-Bakh, on the right

bank

of the river Tiimen.

In this engagement the mountain Tadjiks fought

with

uncommon

bravery

clothing gave rise to the

had been

present.

;

their black rather scanty

rumour

that

Enghshmen

The Chinese shut themselves

Entry of Bjen^ir

up

in their citadel,

into

203

Kashgar.

and the Hodja entered Kashgar

amidst the joyful plaudits of the populace.

assumed the

title

pointed

and military

civil

of Seid-Djengir-Sultan,

of Kokan. Isa-Dakhta

Min-Bashi, and

all

turban.

similar to those

officers

was raised

to the rank of

;

but the Chinese caps with

and feathers were substituted

ball

and ap-

the Kashgar Begs were suff'ered

to retain their posts

the

He

for

the

The Governor of Kashgar, Miat-Seid-Vaun,

a native of Khamil, was condemned to death by a council of

Ahunds

for

having circulated defamatory

reports affecting the Hodja,

The towns

of the people.

and

for his oppression

of Yarkend, Yanyshahr,

and Khotan next rose against the Chinese, cut the garrisons to pieces, razed their fortresses to the

ground, and organized armed contingents for the service of the Hodja.

In the month of June, the thirsting for glory

pan I'or

in the

Khan

of

Kokan,

and wishing to take an

struggle,

arrived with 16,000

active'

men.

some unknown reason Djengir received him

very discourteously, and the Khan, thrown on his

own

resources,-

against

the

which he

lost

after

making

several

attempts

Chinese fortress of Kashgar, before

1000 of

returned to his

his soldiers in twelve

own dominions and

days,

there contented

Travels in Central Asia.

204

himself with striking off coins on which he styled

himself " Hazi " or holy warrior.

Djengir in the meantime continued the siege of the fortress, which the Chinese, deprived of water

and

provisions,

the seventieth suicide,

and the

were compelled day.

to the

surrender on

The mandarins

committed

rest of the garrison, after escaping

were overtaken in the mountains

in the night-time,

and put

to

sword, with the exception of 400

Tungens and Chinese who adopted Islamism. One account

states

the Chinese garrison to have con-

sisted of 10,000,

command

the

and another

of

8000 men, under

of I-Ya, Tian-Tziun of Hi.

The

Hodja, after this success, sent agents to Kokan while the 400 converted Tungens and Chinese were distributed

between

Khiva and the wandering

Balkh,

These emissaries

tribes.

even reached the Great Horde. assistance from the

Kunduz,

Bokhara,

Expecting further

IMussulmen of Central Asia,

Djengir did not take advantage of his success, and

by

this fatal

time

for

marched

temporising policy gave the Chinese

collecting direct to

fortress, the

their

Aksd

forces.

after the

Had

Djengir

capture of the

whole of Eastern Turkestan would,

to

a certainty, have fallen into his hands, and even

Kuldja would most probably have submitted to him.

Conciliatory Policy of the Hodja,

By

his lenient

Djengir

won

and moderate

205

policy,

however,

over the staunchest adherents of the

many

Chinese government, and

of the Begs, from

a sentiment of devotion to his person, subsequently

shared his misfortunes

was and continued at the

to

and with the people, he

;

be a universal

same time courted the good

by conferring

tenegrins

Kalmyks,

said,

it is

offices

became so

favourite.

He

Mon-

will of the

The

on them.

disaffected that the

Chinese ceased to employ them against the Hodja, they

as

him

deserted to

Mussulmen population

in

The

large bodies.

of the towns

still

the Chinese, and even that of Kiddja,

held by

also

began

of emancipating themselves

to entertain thoughts

from the Chinese yoke.

Numerous and the

conspiracies

were brought to hght,

plotters exiled to the Southern

of China, whilst on the other

the

Khan

of

Kokan

Governments

hand the

intrigues of

occasioned disturbances

among

the troops of the Hodja, which resulted in obliging

the latter to

Min-Bashi.

deprive

Isa-Dakhta of the rank of

The continued

inactivity of the

Hodja

rendered his former successes completely nugatory.

The Chinese had time began to concentrate fresh campaign.

to recover themselves, their forces at

Kuldja

and

for a

206

Travels

army numbered 200,000 men, imper-

Djengir's fectly

Central Asia.

i?i

" zemburaks,"

tured from the Chinese, and some

Mying

mounted on camels.

guns

or

artillery cap-

armed, with a few pieces of

d(!tach-

ments of Kirghizes were employed in intercepting the

man

of

who commanded

Atantai, a

convoys

Chinese

of great

forage.

these detachments, was

influence in the

Hodja, who conferred

and

provisions

on

him

Council of the in

marriage a

daughter of the former Hakim-Beg. In

the

month

arrived at Aksu,

of

September, 70,000 Chinese

commanded by Djun-Tan, one

of

the highest Chinese dignitaries. They remained stationary there until February, and their

new

it

was only

after

year that they advanced to Kashgar.

They were encountered by the formidable

con-

tingents of the towns of Kashgar, Yarkend, and

Khotan, by a mixed body of volunteers, by the

Dikokamenni forces of

Kirghizes,

and

by the

auxiliary

Kunduzes, Urj'atups, and Tadjiks.

The

Chinese advanced in regular order, and met the

enemy with

a discharge from their artillery.

The

troops of the Si-Chuen province, wearing turbans

and

long

" khalats "

with Djengir's

among

them.

militia,

The

or robes,

got

intermixed

occasioning great disorder

Kokanians,

panic-stricken.

Capture and Ewecution of Bjengir.

were the

first

army

of the

to

fly,

207

whereupon the whole body

The Hodja with

retired in confusion.

escaped to the mountains, surrendering

difficulty

his power, after a rule of nine months.

The

despatched

Chinese, elated with success,

a strong force in pursuit of Djengir, which, on

approaching the town of Ush, reminded the Kokanians

The Khan

end of the world.

of the

assembled his army, and

all

the inhabitants were

seized with a fanatical terror.

Djengir meanwhile

gathered a large force of Dikokamenni Kirghizes, and,

engaging

the

Chinese

another

in

action,

signally defeated them.

Issak-Van, a wily native a

Ush-Turfan, and

of

devoted supporter of the Chinese,

By

appointed Governor of Kashgar.

money among

the

Dikokamenni

brought some of them over to his

had been distributing

Kirghizes, he

side,

and assured

Djengir, through his agents, of his loyalty and of his readiness to

assistance of a

ceeded

m

deliver

up Kashgar.

Chon-Bagysh

and

after a

put to death as a

the

Issak-Van suc-

treacherously securing Djengir,

he dehvered up to the Chinese. to Pekin,

Bi,

With

whom

Djengir was sent

few years was barbarously

rebel.

Djengir's rebelHon, which terminated in 1828,

208

Travels in Central Asia.

although

it

lasted only nine months,

importance in

its

He

results.

was of great

gave his attempts

the lawful colouring of those of a Sovereign ruler

endeavouring to regain his hereditary rights, and,

by

the

calling

insurrection a

" Hazat,"

or holy

war, he awakened the sympathies of the fanatical

Mussulman tion

had been crushed,

Chinese, vincible rent.

who had by the

all

the impotence of the

hitherto been

considered in-

became

glaringly appa-

Asiatics,

The Kashgar

spirits of

After the insurrec-

of Central Asia.

patriots

raUied the broken

the natives by inspiring

them with

fresh

hopes of a return of the independence of their country.

Naturally,

therefore,

people

the

of

Eastern Turkestan, M'ho had suffered so patiently

under the oppression of the Chinese of their their

own

ever

protectors,

was

and

ready with arms in their

hands to defend them against the It

officials

Begs, looked up to the Hodjas as

at this

infidels.

time that the Kokanians obtained

that political influence which they enjoy even to

the present day.

Noyan-Chen, the Chinese

pleni-

potentiary, entrusted with the pacification of the

Western

region,

adopted

stringent

precautions

against the recurrence of similar outbreaks.

the weight of these repressive measures

fell

All

on the

Prohibition hy the Chinese of Trade with Kohan. 209

who were put

poor natives,

to death, their houses

demolished, and their entire property confiscated.

Aware

of the traitorous conduct of the

Kokan, and to chastise him

Khan

of

for his participation

in the late rebeUion, the plenipotentiary ordered

the arrest

of

all

Kokanian merchants

and the cessation of

Among

all

as

communication with Kokan.

their

of

all

nations

Noyan-Chen,

relations

considered

therefore,

Kokanians of

the

he erected

view,

with

China.

by

that

de-

advantages he

these

would be punishing them most this

the

that

whomsoever depends on

commercial

having

priving

own

exaggerated notions of their

other

importance, the Chinese are convinced welfare

rebels,

With

severely.

custom-house barriers

at

the villages of Tuguzak, within fourteen miles of

Kashgar, and

Yarkend.

at Liangar, twenty-seven miles

On

the approach of a caravan to the

military picket, soldiers

number

it

under an

was met by a party of Chinese officer,

who

took a note of the

of people accompanying

it,

the quantity

of goods brought, &c., and conducted caravansarai

;

here another

oflScial

was

it

to the

stationed,

under whose superintendence the goods were the merchants

During the

saje,

were

watched

strictly

from

;

who

sold.

attended

it

and, oh the termination of p

210

Travels in Central Asia.

the barter, the caravan was escorted

Chinese

lines,

beyond the

under guard of the same

men who had met

on

it

these rigorous measures

Chinese invited trade with them

its

officer

To make

arrival.

more keenly

still

and

felt,

the Bokharians and Kunduzes ;

the to

but these merchants, on respond-

ing to the invitation, found themselves subjected to

same

the

inconveniences

as

the

Kokanians.

Although the Dikokamenni Kirghizes deserved the

same punishment

as

the Kokanians, the Chinese

were obliged to show them clemency, owing to the scarcity of cattle in the region of " the Six

Towns," to which they even despatched envoys to

beg them

relates

A

for their herds.

that,

during the

Russian merchant

struggle with

ruled so high at Aksu, that

prices

paid a

yamb

(£18.

(Ss.)

for

the Chinese

two sheep,

scheme had the anticipated

which

of increasing

trade and suppressing that of the natives.

All Central Asia

with

effect

for

The Chinese

they paid but £4. 175. at Kashgar.

their

Djengir^

tea,

and Afghanistan were supplied

which found

its

way through Kashgar

and Kokan. In 1829 their exclusive system of commerce be-

came

so

insupportable, that

the,

Kokanians

solved to open a trade for themselves

arms.

by

re-

force of

Maddi-Khan.

Rebellion of

At the head of

Kokan.

of this enterprise

Notwithstanding

luxurious and sensual

211

was Madali, Khan his

youth,

and

he had the good

habits,

sense to choose most able confederates, such as the

Min-Bashi, Hak-Kuli, an Uzbek of the Yuz tribe

and the Kush-Begi, Liashkar,

;

originally a Persian

bondsman, raised by Madali- Khan to the highest offices,

and afterwards appointed Governor of Tash-

With

kend.

the assistance of these two viziers,

Madali subdued

the

mountain

petty

states

of

Karategin, Darvaz, and Kuliab, and extended his

power over

all

the Burnt races, over the Great

Horde, and even to some extent over the Kirghizes

The

of the Middle Horde. of this

Khan was

history of

make

the

Kokan, and

first

most

half of the reign

brilliant period in the

his successes induced

him

to

preparations for a war with China.

Anticipating opposition to his schemes on the part of the Central Asiatics, rally

who were then

indisposed towards the

Kokanians, and to

secure, if possible, their assistance, secretly prevailed

Yusuf, to resided,

Madali-Kahn

on Djengir's elder brother, Med-

leave Bokhara,

and

gene-

to join

him

where he permanently at

Kokan.

The Khan

next issued a general proclamation to the inhabitants of the Khanat, in which he set forth that, as

p 2

a

Central Asia.

Travel-'^ hi

21:3

Mussulman

ruler,

he could not remain a passive

spectator of the tyranny of the infidels,

who im-

posed unjust taxes, and violated the chastity of the

and daughters

virives

of

Mussulmen.

For

the

stronger enlistment of their sympathies, he further

added the

fact,

improvised for the occasion, that the

Chinese desecrated the Mussulman sanctuaries, and prevented the

performance of the ceremonies of

Lending an

their religious faith.

ear,

therefore, to

the lamentations of the faithful Kashgarians,

whom

he wished to liberate from bondage, he declared his intention of seating

Hodja Med-Yusuf on the throne

of his ancestors.

Med- Yusuf-Hodja took

In September, 1830,

the

with an army of 20,000 Kokanians, 15,000

field

Tashkendians, and 2000 mountaineers from Kara-

making

tegin,

cluding

about

a total force

3000

artillery consisted

on camels. the

of 40,000 men,

Kashgar

often

The whole

force

His

emigrants.

" Zemburaks,"

in-

mounted

was commanded by

Min-Bashi Hak-Kuli, brother-in-law

of the

Khan by Miad-Sharif Liashkar, and the Kush-Begi ;

of Tashkend.

The Chinese, hearing

of the warlike

preparations of the Kokanians, marched to attack

them with 3000 men, but were completely defeated near the

little

village of

Min-Yul.

Hak-Kuli,

dis-

Withdrawal from Kashc/ar of Med- Yusuf.

213

comfiting the Chinese afterwards in another action,

took Kashgar, and placed the government in the

hands of Med-Yusuf-Hodja.

Kush-Begi Liashkar

then gained possession of Yanyshahr, Yarkend, and

Khotan, crossed the Aksu, putting to the sword

who opposed as the

all

him, and scoured the country as far

The Chinese

Muzart pass.

troops were con-

centrated at Karashahr, and delayed their advance.

In Kuldja, the camels of the Kalmyks were forcibly taken by the Chinese, and the Torgouts were compelled to

furnish

2000 men, who marched very

imwillingly under the oppressor's

command.

In the meantime, the hostile attitude of the Emir of

Bokhara obliged the Khan of Kokan

Hak-Kuli, who of Kashgar,

and

returned home.

to recall

was besieging the Chinese citadel in

November the Kokanian

troops

Med-Yusuf, perceiving that he

could not hold his ground without support, and

being of a peaceful disposition, also returned to

Kokan,

his rule

During

this

having endured just ninety days.

war 70,000 Kashgarians migrated

Kokan, where they

settled

below Khodjend, in the

to

on the river Syr-Daria,

village

of Dalvas

;

and

in

Tashkend, where they founded another settlement

named Yanyshahr. Ml these Kashgarians received a ten years' immunity from all taxes. The Kokanians

214

Travels in Ceritral Asia.

in this

war seized 500 Chinese, a largo

collection of

arms, and a considerable quantity of tea and

Western China

in

An

rassed state.

this year

was

in an

silver.

embar-

insurrection broke out in

the

province of Shan- Si, and the insurgents operated

with success.

dan

rebels,

Barkul was taken by the

and

its

Mahomme-

inhabitants were killed.

It

was

not before January that the Chinese began to concentrate their forces

in Hi,

at the

time when the

Kokanians evacuated Kashgar. In the spring of 183] the Kokanians commenced ,

a

war with the Dikokamenni Kirghizes.

scattered the " Ulusses,"

Kuli, with 7,000 sepoys,

or

Hak-

camps of the Sayaks, on the Upper Naryn, took

their chiefs, Atantai

turned with booty.

many

and Tailak, captives

The Kushi-Beg

prisoners,

and

and much valuable

of Tashkend, at the

time, pursued the Bogus,

settle-

of Sibo.

These events forced the Chinese to

hne of

policy.

Kokan detained

three

of them,

the fourth with an agent of his

Kokan

alter their

In the spring of 1831, four Chinese

envoys arrived with proposals of peace. of

same

and pushed beyond the

boundaries of the Hi district to the military

ment

re-

plenipotentiary

own

The Khan

and sent back to Pekin.

The

was Alim-Patcha, a mer-

Treaty between China and Kokan.

chant, rights

who and

215

secured for his Sovereign the following

privileges

:

—

1

.

That the dues on mer-

chandise brought by foreigners to

the Six

Towns

of Eastern Turkestan, Aksii, Ush-Turfan, Kashgar,

Yanyshahr, Yarkend, and Khotan should be appropriated by the Kokanians.

That for the

2.

col-

lection of these dues, the Kokanians should have in each of these cial agent,

tor,

towns an " Aksakal," or commer-

under the authority of a Kashgar inspec

and who would

also

tive of his country.

be the

3. All

•

political representa-

arriving in

foreigners

the above towns should in every respect be amenable to the

to

Kokan

agents.

The Kokanians, on

their part,

watch the Hodjas,

in order to prevent their leav-

ing

the

territories

to imprison

them

in

in

which

bound themselves

they

and

dwelt,

case they attempted

to

do

so.

In 1832, the same Alim was appointed Aksakal of Kashgar, receiving this office on lease, as

is

the

custom in Kokan. In this way, commercial and political relations

between Kokan and Western China were established.

The

influence of the Kokanians once

extended, and taking advantage policy of the

of the

more

amicable

Chinese, they gradually appropriated

21(5

Travels in Central Asia.

to themselves

different

As

privileges.

people

a

ignorant of the laws that should regulate national intercourse, their conduct

marked by a

is

brutal

which the Chinese bear with astonishing

audacity, patience.

The

insurrections of Eastern Turkestan in

and 1830, were severe blows the Chinese Empire, which

the

present

day.

The

1825

the prestige of

to

has not recovered to

it

military frontier

has not

been visited by them since 1825, and a new route has been chosen for the passage of their troops over the Muzart pass.

The Kokanians,

ing the Dikokamenni

there,

1832,

in

Naryn,

and, a

the

little

threw out

Kirghizes,

frontiers so as to include

Khotan

fortress later,

after subjugat-

itself,

of

their

and founded

Kurtka on the

another

on the Pamir

Plateau, called Tash-Kurgan.

The Kokanians of

Eastern

are no less powerful in the towns

Turkestan, as

under

the population

is

acquired such

political

nearly one-fourth of

their rule.

Kokan having

weight,

interest lay in

its

preventing the outbreaks of the Hodjas, accordingly kept under

the year

1

strict

surveillance.

846, Eastern Turkestan

peace under the Hakim-Beg,

who were Until

enjoyed perfect

Zurdun, who proved

himself a just ruler, and protected the interests of

;

Recent Disturbances in Kokan. the

He

inhabitants

against

Chinese

the

217 officials.*

favoured trade, and was well disposed towards

the Russian Tartars, lish direct

whom

relations with

dun-Beg that Kashgar and

tion of its walls

he encouraged to estab-

Kashgar.

It is to

Zur-

indebted for the construc-

is

the

of

new

quarters of the

town. In the year 1845 fresh disturbances, which were reflected in Kashgar, broke out in

elevation of the youthful

Kokan, on the

Hudoyar to the Khanship

under the protectorate of the all-powerful

The Aksakals were being con-

Mussulman-Kul. stantly changed,

courtier,

and even one of

Abdul-

these,

Afur, recalled to Kokan, was summarily hanged.

The

Dikokamenni

Kirghizes

continually

through the Chinese frontier-pickets in large

and the Aksakals stop

of

them from doing

broke parties,

Kokan, while promising so,

to

accepted bribes for shut-

ting their eyes to these constant infractions of the treaty.

* In 1830, Zurdun-Beg had removed to Kokan, whence he made way to Petropaulovsk on. the Siberian frontier, and thence to Kazan, and returning through Semipalatinsk to Kuldja, presented

his

himself before the Tian-Tziun.

Zurdan said that he had escaped

from imprisonment in Kokan, and on the strength of received the office of "

Hakim-Beg.

"Ishkaga"

this

statement

of Kashgar, and ultimately that of

218

Travels in Central Asia.

The Hodjas

also profited

by these

disorders,

and

with a small force, composed principally of Kashgar

and Dikokamenni Kirghizes, ap-

emigrants

peared under the walls of Kashgar in the autumn of

The governor

1847.

of the town, Kasim-Beg, re-

solved to hold out until the Hodjas

Chinese

In one

fortress.

hold, the Chinese were

the Hodjas

sally

had taken

from their strong-

beaten, and flying before

who pursued them, were

all

drowned

The Hodjas apprised the town

in the river Kizyl.

of their victory by sounding trumpets

but the

;

Begs would not surrender, and forced the tants to

man

the

the walls.

Named-Khan,

inhabi-

a Tashkend

merchant, succeeded in communicating with the

Hodjas outside, through a subterranean passage,

and by

his treachery, the gates

opened to the besiegers

early

of

Kashgar were

one morning

in

Hakim-Beg, Kasim, and the

the second week.

other Begs escaped to the Chinese

"Manchen"

or

citadel.

This event

is

known

as the insurrection of the

seven Begs, from the circumstance that ried out by seven

The

eldest,

members

of the

ruler,

was

Appak

Ishan-Khan-Tiiria, better

Katta-Khan, was proclaimed

it

car-

family.

known

as

and the other

Hodjas were appointed governors of the surrounding settlements.

219

Excesses of the Seven Hodjas.

Vali-Khan-Turia, the same rection of 1857,

who headed

the insur-

was governor of the town of Yani-

shahr, where he signalized his administration

unexampled

The

ferocity.

commenced with

rule of the seven

by

Hodjas

the pillage of the Begs' houses,

and with the estabhshment of a large harem. Educated at

Kokan they avoided

the observance of the

customs of their coimtrymen, and surrounded themselves with Andijans.

Named- Khan,

Aksakal

the

raised to the rank

of

was

Kokan,

of

Katta-Khan,

Min-Bashi.

generally speaking, did not secure the affections of his people,

The only

nor yet did he inspire them with

man

fear.

in this insurrection

was Tavekel-

Hodja, also a descendant of Mahomet.

This active

able

and very brave man, had commanded the army

when

besieging Kashgar, with the rank of Batyr-

Bashi,

and was afterwards sent

to Aksii.

At Kuldja, preparations were being made

for

war, and immediately on receipt of the news of the insurrection, a force

was despatched

to suppress

it,

but the departure of these troops seriously weakening the garrison of the town, they were recalled before they

had reached

their destination.

An army

intended to operate against Kashgar was expected

from Urumchi and Lan-cheu; upon the

arrival of

220

Travels in Central Asia.

which vance.

in

November, It

was

it

was composed of

churs, soldiers of the

at

once ordered to ad-

several

hundred Man-

Green Dragon, of Sibos and

Solons, and re-inforced

by one thousand Torguts,

and three thousand Chashpans,

i.

criminals trans-

e.

ported from the Southern Governments, who, before leaving Kuldja, attested

the justice of their

sentence, by pillaging the shops

This army was

commanded by

and private houses. the Tian-Tziun Jo,

and entered into winter quarters at Maral-Bashi. Before the

arrival

of the

Chinese, the Hodja

Katta-Khan made a move against Yarkend, which city

The Chinese

he was bent on securing.

birds, disobeying the orders given them,

advanced divisions of the Khan's

fell

on the

and

utterly

Katta-Khan then hurried

routed them. gar,

forces,

jail-

but the inhabitants of that place,

to Kash-

dissatisfied

with the preference he had shown for the Andijans,

and enraged

at

the heavy taxes which he had im-

posed on them, closed their gates.

After a few

more desultory engagements with the Chinese, the Ilodja

fled

to

Kokan, and the enemy occupied

Kashgar without any opposition. forces amounted,

it is

said, to

The Chinese

64,000 men, and

was affirmed that further reinforcements were vancing on

Kuldja.

The above

figure

is

it

ad-

exagge-

of the Inhabitants o/Kashgar.

Sufferinffs

rated, probably,

and

it

is

more

likely that another

account, estimating the troops from

4000,

from

Kuldja

at

Lian-Cheu,

6000,

Urumchi

and

20,000,

those

On

nearer the truth.

is

221

at

of

the occu-

pation of Kashgar by the Chinese troops, 20,000 individuals of both sexes fled from the town, the

whom

majority of frosts,

Terekty

the

in

perished from exposm-e to severe

bleaching bones

still

mountains,

where

their

strew the pass.

In the same year, on the proposition of the Chinese,

political

and

were again renewed with

commercial the

relations

on the

country

The Kokanians, now thoroughly

former footing.

acquainted with the weakness of the Chinese, and feeling their

own

a firm hold on

ment

of the

superior strength, besides having

all

the Hodjas, treated the govern-

Bogdo Khan with very

Named- Khan, who had Hodjas,

and was

delivered

Min-Bashi to

little

ceremony.

Kashgar the

to

Khan

Kokan, again became Aksakal of Kashgar. the Kokanians

who had been

faithful to the

the of All

Hodjas

in the last rising,

remained unmolested and enjoyed

his protection at

Kashgar.

The Kokanians now accorded

greater liberty

to the Hodjas, as they did not thereby their relations,

endanger

but on the contrary increased their

222

Travels in Central Asia.

influence

the

in

1855 and 1856,

In

country.

Kicliik-Khan-Ture and Vali-Khan-Tiiria attempted several inroads, but

ness

of

owing to the numerical weakthey

troops,

their

did

not

succeed

in

penetrating through the frontier pickets.

The

last insurrection

occurred in 1857.

In the

spring of that year, on the day after the termination of the fled

Ramadan

Hodja Vali-Khan-Tiiria

from Kokan in company with seven Kashgar

They arrived during the night

emigrants.

Kokan Ush

fast,

fort of Oksalur, situated

at the

on the road from

to Kashgar, the garrison of which, after kilHng

commander, the Hodja

the

He

himself.

likewise

several soldiers

persuaded to

join

succeeded in gaining over

who had been

by Nar-Mat-

sent

Datha, Aksakal of Kashgar, to collect the "Ziaket"

Chon-Bagysh

or tribute from the Kirghizes of the tribe, at that

He

fort.

along

all

time encamped in the vicinity of the

further

stationed

guards

and scouts

the roads leading to Kashgar, to prevent

Kirghizes from giving the alarm, and despatched emissaries to raise an

armed Kirghiz

Kashgar Begs, sent by the Chinese of

Ush

force.

Several

in the direction

to collect information respecting the Hodjas,

were taken prisoners and brought before VaU-Khan,

who

immediately cut off their heads with his own

VaJi-Khnn-Tiiria surprises Kashgar.

Having passed the night

hand.

at

223

the ford over

the Kizyl, he reached, on the next, an outlying

There were no sentinels on the

Chinese picket. walls,

and one of

opened the

his followers having scaled

Vali-Khan-Triiia entered, sword

gates.

in hand, with his retainers,

and put to death

who were peaceably

the Chinese soldiers

and smoking opium Kashgarians

in

who chanced

all

reclining

barracks.

their

Some

to be at the picket at the

moment, shared the same

Having

fate.

Hodja

effectually silenced the picket, the

the morning

them,

thus

at four in

appeared before the South- Western All was

gates of Kashgar.

still

in the town.

The

Hodja's followers collected the wood that had been

brought

and

for sale

kindled a large

fire

;

left

outside the walls, and

with the powder they had

captured at the picket they endeavoured to blow

The peace of the town, however,

open the gates.

was not disturbed by these proceedings, and none of the inhabitants were aware of ring. ja's

When

what was occur-

at last the gates fell in,

band galloped through the

exclaiming — "All * Buzmk-Khan

is

one of the Hod-

streets of the

town

hail to Buisruk-Khan-Tiiria !" *

the only son of Djengir.

yet ventured on a " Hazat."

He

is

the KashgaVali-Khan made use of his

rians,

who

name

to gain the sympathy of the inhabitants.

expect him as a deliverer.

This Hodja has not

much beloved by

224

The

Travels in Central Asia.

The inhabitants

was magical.

effect

multuously to arms,

and " looted"

welcomed

at the

all

the Chinese,

and shops.

The Hodja,

massacred

their houses

gates

rose tu-

by the Kokanian Aksakal,

The

entered the town in triumphal procession.

who

palace of the Hakim-Beg,

effected his

escape

through another of the city gates to the Chinese town, was hurriedly got ready, and Vali-Khan-Turia installed himself in

it

the sound of trumpets

to

who had

and gongs.

All those Begs

in escaping,

were seized by the loyal inhabitants

not succeeded

and brought before the Hodja, who indulged

his

savage nature by hacking several of them to pieces

with

his

On

own hand.

inhabitants

the following day, the

of the Artysh and Bishkarim settle-

ments,headed by a powerful Mont-Albanian, Sheikh-

Ahund and

his

two Begs, Halyk and

Tair, joined

the successful Vali-Khan. All the Begs vice,

who had

and had not fled

entered the Chinese

to the

ser-

Chinese citadel, were

murdered, together with their children, while

their

wives and daughters became the prey of the diers

of

the Hodja.

But

the

sol-

two above-named

Begs, from the Artysh settlement, although they

had

also accepted

sented

themselves

office

under the Chinese, pre-

fearlessly

before

Vali-Khan

Mapid Spread of

225

the Insurrection.

because they had been at the same time in constant

communications with the Hodjas, and

secret

nished them with large

sums of money

fur-

for the

support of a " Hazat." Vali-Khan-Tiiria immediately conferred the rank of

Min-Bashi on Nor-Named, Aksakal of Kokan,

Kokan

while returned fugitives from

received dif-

ferent posts at court.

The

insurrection

spread

Hodja found himself of 70,000

or

foot

so

rapidly that

in a short time at the

the

head

mounted horsemen, and 4000 sarbazes

soldiers

;

and

he

had,

furthermore,

a

large force of volunteers, raised in the surrounding

towns and

These troops

villages.

wei-e dressed in

uniform, and arms were provided by the Hodja,

who

divided them into banners, with

under each, commanded by Pansads.

dam up

The

spades and

tants proceeded daily with

the river Kizyl in order to divert

against the walls

of

Chinese

the

foreign merchants were also

500 men inhabi-

shovels to

course

its

The

fortress.

armed and forced

to

take part in the siege works.

The of

Hodja proceeded

organizing

artizans

of

his

actively

and employed

troops,

Kashgar

Horses were impressed

with the work

in

all

manufacturing

from

the

natives,

Q

the

arms.

and

226

TraceJx in Central Asia.

person as

foreign merchants compelled to serve in

well as furnish

forth

Fresh taxes were daily imposed.

formed a park of

army.

the

for

requisitions

The Hodja

also

guns, which,

artillery of eighteen

The guns were

however, did but Httle execution.

Kashgar mider the superintendence of an

cast at

According to the testimony of an eye-

Afghan.

witness, the troops of Vali-Klian were

armed and organized than those Bokhara, whose army

.serves

as

much

Emir

of the a

better

model

the

for

The Chinese attempted

whole of Central Asia.

of

in

several sorties to stop the progress of the siege, but

were on every occasion repulsed with at last confined themselves

ants

They

loss.

to firing at the assail-

from their guns and matchlocks, while the

Solons and Sibos

galled the besieging

army with

showers of arroAvs from the lofty walls.

The town the Hodja.

of Yanyslialir

He

next

was soon

after

despatched his

taken by favourite,

Tilya-Khan, son of a Yanyshahr emigrant, to invest

Yarkend, who, to further the success of the enterprise,

of

was

falsely given

out as a Hodja.

Yarkend was formally commenced

of June. their "

in

The the

siege

month

The Chinese, who had marched out

Mancheu," or

citadel, at that

Tilya-Khan, were defeated.

of

town, to meet

Notwithstanding

this

Ferocious CrueUij of Fali-Khaii-Tliria.

reverse, the inhabitants of tlie

The

defend themselves. rians,

town

still

iil

resolved to

local Begs, the

Bokha-

Badakshanis, and Baits, urged the people

who

were favourable to the Hodjas, not to participate in the insurrection,

them

assuring

that

Tilya-Khan

did not belong to the order of Hodjas, but was the

son of a Yanyshahr butcher.

Beg

which,

in

made

of Yarkend,

regardless

Ismail-Van,

Hakim-

a speech to the inhabitants, of

presence

tlic

of

the

Chinese, he declared that, should the real Hodja arrive, he, Ismail- Van,

would not presume

to oppose

him.

Notwithstanding the material forces that supported the authority of the Hodja, great

it

also required a

amount of patience and devotion on the

part

of the Kashgarians to suffer the cruelty and injus-

From

tice of the tyrant.

the continual smoking of

hashish, Vali-Khan-Tiiria was reduced to a state of

savage frenzy, in the paroxysms of which he gave full

His mania was

scope to his brutal passions.

a thirst for blood,

and not a day passed without

men being

slaughtered in cold blood, either

several

by himself

or in his presence.

On

human

skulls,

rise of a

monu-

the Kizyl, he erected a pyramid of

and anxiously watched the gradual

ment so worthy

of

him.

The

the banks of

heads of fallen

Q 3

i2S

Travels in Cpniral A^iii.

Chinese and parts,

and added

influence

fell

collected from

Mussulman were

Many men of Among ferocity.

the pyramid.

to

victims

to

his

him without any cause were

those executed by

Named-Khan, who had

several times occupied the

post of Aksakal of Kashgar, and

Kokan

Halyk-Beg of Artysh, one

who had

his

way

to

from

of his bravest supporters;

This latter was

and, lastly, an European traveller.

making

fled

Hodja; the

of the

the service

to enter

all

Kokan, and, wishing to present

himself before the Hodja, author, Naman-Bai,

who is

desired a friend of the related to the Hodja, to

procure some Indian gold lirocade and Cashmere shawls as

gifts for

Vali-Khan.

European gave himself out sent

from'Bombay

Hodja demanded

him to

to

the

It is said that

to be an English agent,

Khan

his papers,

them

they were addressed.

sufficient to seal

the

doom

of

The

Kokan.

but the traveller told

that he could only deliver

whom

this

to the

person

This answer was

of the poor Eeringhee.

Judging from the date of the occurrence and the intelligence received subsequently in Europe, safely

it

may

be assumed that the European executed

at

Kashgar in 1857 was no other than the learned Prussian

Hindoo at

traveller,

servant

Yarkend.

Adolphe Schlagintweit.

who accompanied

him,

still

The

resides

Fiendish Murderi^ committed by the Hod^a. 2:29

The trated

ferocity of this

Hodja may further be

by the following story

:

illus-

—A Kashgarian who

had made some sword-blades, brought them to the Khan, accompanied

the

sw.ords

whether

into

which the maker answered

to

and with one blow he struck " Yes, if

this

man

It is

a

oflF

head of the

the

a good blade," he said, " give

is

Khlat

'

Hodja inquired

" Let us see," said the Hodja,

in the affirmative.

boy.

Taking one of

his son.

hand, the

his

was sharp,

it

by

'

(robe) of

honour

!"

on one

also related of Vali-Khan-Tiiria that,

occasion, he invited to his palace the

able personages of

Andijan merchants,

most respect-

Kashgar, together with several

and

according

custom called in some musicians.

to

Kashgar

During the

entertainment the stentorian voice of the

Hodja

" Executioner !"

His

was heard

to

cry

out,

trembling guests sat stupefied and aghast. executioner entered, his

finger to

his

body

before

guests and

and the Hodja pointed with

one of the musicians

prudently yawned.

The

who had

im-

His head was severed from

the eyes of the horror-stricken

taken away

to

be

placed

on

the

pyramid.

Men

as well as

women, Montenegrins, Montalba-

nians, adherents of the

White and Black Moun-,

230

Travels

in

Central Asia.

taneer parties, soldiers and mullahs alike

fell

victims

to the sanguinary predilections of the Hodja.

prisons were crowded,

at length

till

The

Kashgar from

one end to the other presented the appearance of a vast slaughter-house strewed with

national customs of Kashgar,

corpses.

differing

The

from those

of Kokan, were distasteful to the Hodja,

and per-

The

was pro-

secuted by him. hibited

;

the

national costume

women were

ordered, in imitation of

the Andijans, to cover their hair with a white kerchief

and not to venture out unveiled.

also forbidden strictly

to plait their hair,

enforced by the police.

and

Tor the

of this regulation the fair offenders

They were this

was

infraction

were shorn of

their tresses.

The males from the age wear a turban and gularly, to

to

of six were obliged to

frequent the mosques re-

which the Kashgarians were not accus-

tomed. It

may

easily

be imagined,

after all this,

intelligence of the advance of a

why

numerous body

the of

Chinese from Hi was hailed with universal delight.

Speedy release from such an all-paralysing terror

was anxiously and impatiently awaited, and moreover the Kashgarians

ment of Andijans

felt

aggrieved in the appoint-

to all the highest

ranks in the

Jealousy of the Official Appoint me iih.

army

and

at

231

Nor-Mohammed, former

court.

Aksakal of Kokan, was now Min-Bashi

Mohammed-Rahim was Mehter; Med-Karim-Kari was Hasnatch

Satykul, a Kipchak, was chief of the court

;

functionaries grant,

and Mussa Pansat, a Kashgar emi-

;

was general of the body guard

Kurshi was

Kokan.

the office of

;

by Essaul-Tokhtar, a native of

filled

The

respectively

different divisions of the

army were

commanded by Abdulla-Khan-Hodja,

a Sheikh, and

by

the forces sent

a former

to

Aksii

Chalgurt-Tokhta-Manju, adventurer, and

who

;

mehrem

in his expedition to

a

and

notorious robber

Margilan

butcher,

Khotan succeeded

ing possession of the large settlement of the road from Yarkend to Khotan.

had once been transported

;

and Khotan were under

obscure

an

of Tillia-Khan

in tak-

Puma

on

Tokhta-Manju

to the Southern govern-

ments of the Chinese Empire

for the

murder

Chinaman, but made

his escape thence to

in the disguise of a

Manchur

officer,

of a

Kashgar

where he

common soldier under the Aksakal of that town. Among the Kashgarians near the person of the Hodja, who still occupied prominent posts, was a certain Sheikh- Ahund from the settlement served as a

of Altyn-Artysh. influential

man

He

of the

was the wealthiest and only

White Mountain party

in all

232

Tracels in Central Asia.

Kashgar, his daughter being also married to VaU-

There were many Kashgarians and

khan-Tiiria.

Chalgurts in the army holding the rank of Colonel or " Pansad," but none of these possessed the conto him.

had access

fidence of the Hodja, or

This invidious preference

for

were originally common soldiers of the of Kokan, excited the jealousy

who

Andijans,

Aksakal

of the Kashgarian

patriots even from the very outset.

But by way of

illustration of his

first

joyful re-

ception in Kashgar, an Ahirad describes that on the

day

after the taking of

Artysh

Kashgar, the Bishkarim and

under the command of the Sheikh-

militia,

Ahund and two

Begs, waving their banners, and

sounding their timbrels, approached

his palace with

shouts of joy, demanding to see the Hodja and to

The

kiss his hands.

who

sight of the Kokanians,

surrounded the palace and refused to admit them, raised a loud

not

call

murmur

upon the Hodja

and property

after sacrificing

his cause,

in

" If

of discontent.

we may

our

lives

what claims have the

Andijans to his favour?" cried the

militia.

Here

Mussa-Pansad issued from the palace and

them for

laconically

:

told

" If your heads are not too heavy

your shoulders, then

self hold your peace "

in the

name

of Allah him-

After this the Kashgarians

dispersed silent, and thoroughly disenchanted.

233

Universal Feelings of Discontent arise.

The resources and the

of the country

Were soon exhausted,

cessation of trade as well as of every branch

of industry,

became

painfully

donkeys were impressed kettles, dishes,

and other

The

felt.

army;

the

for

horses and

copper

were seized

utensils

During one hundred days the

casting cannon.

whole population was occupied in siege works. addition to

the Hodja passed

In

the suspicions and cruelty of

this,

all

for

Named-Khan, while

all limits.

superintending the siege works,

TA'as

seized

and

exe-

cuted, and the civil and military officers were coninually being fined

the Min-Bashi was several

;

times imprisoned, and had to pay a heavy save

his

The

life.

An Uidacha

peril.

moment he expected

were in constant

Hodja

relates that every

state of ex-

The people, exhausted

siege works, prayed for the surrender of the

Chinese give

Such a

death.

citement could not last long.

by the

to

all

of

lives

of the

sum

fort,

the walls of which daily threatened to

way under

the pressure of the accumulating

waters of the Kizyl river.

denly arrived, and

who had been

all

A

Chinese force sud-

rejoiced.

The Min-Bashi,

sentenced to death, speedily retired

with his army, and fled to Kokan.

The Andijan merchants, during one hundred and

after

fifteen

having laboured

days

in.

conducting

234

'Travels in Central Asia.

the siege of the Chinese fort, followed on the heels of the Min-Bashi. Vali-Khan, left alone with a few

persons

whom

who it

still

remained

faithful to

him, among

must be observed there was not a

Kokanian,

fled to the

mountain

single

territory of Darvaz,

the ruler of which, Ismail-Shah,— first robbed him of

all

he brought with him from Kashgar, then,

the request of the

Khan

of

at

Kokan, delivered him up

to his enemies.

Dm-ing rily

this period,

15,000 individuals volunta-

emigrated from Kashgar to Kokan. The Chinese

now occupying Kashgar, were less violent

guilty of excesses no

than those of Vali-Khan. The surround-

ing villagers especially suffered from the exactions

and

cruelties of the Chinese,

hay, cattle, etc.

who

The windows,

wooden appurtenances

of the

seized their com, doors,

and other

mosques and tombs

of

the Hodjas \vere, to the great grief of the Mussulmen,

broken up

for

fuel.

The Kalmyks

stabled their

horses in the temples, maltreated the natives, and violated the

women.

But the Chinese soon

ap-

pointed Kattu-Beg to the post of Hokim-Beg of

Kashgar, a clever and energetic

man

;

who

in

a

short time restored the peace of the town, expelled

the

Kalmyks from Kashgar, and put an

stop to

all

lawless proceedings.

By

effectual

this Beg's ad-

Scenes of Bhodshed re-enacted in Kashgar. 235

who had

vice, all those

tion

taken part in the insurrec-

were seized and executed, as a warning to

The Sheikh- Ahund, who has been

others.

mentioned in

Ahund,

and

this sketch,

undergoing

after

his eldest son,

torture

sonment, were both beheaded

so often

his

;

effected their escape to Kurtka,

and

Kyzyimpri-

two other sons

whence they

ulti-

mately reached Kokan.

The other persons who were

sacrificed to the

rage of Vali-Khan, were of no note

cuted in

of fury,

fits

separate cages,

still

and

line

;

they were exe-

their heads,

placed in

the road leading to

the

gates of Kashgar.

The houses

of the Andijans were

occupied by

Kuldja and Yarkend Begs, who had arrived

Kashgar with the Chinese

troops.

executions of the Chinese lasted

August, 1858, so that

for

nearly

till

two

The

at

military

the month of entire years

Kashgar was the scene of torture and executions. Trade during

this

time gradually languished

became

utterly stagnant.

repressed

native industry

it

fruits

of

former

Kalmyks. foot,

The

The and

pursuits,

life

and the

labour were plundered by the corn-fields

were trampled under

and Kalmyk studs grazed

enclosures.

insecurity of

till

in the gardens

and

Vali-Khan, on his being brought to

236

Trave/ii in Central Asia.

Kokan, was imprisoned by the Khan of that place,

and the " ulems " decide .on flicted

punishment

the

many

on him for the murder of so relatives of the

Khan demanded

reparation,

by other applicants

who had offices

Aksakal of

in-

innocent

murdered Named-

and they were joined on the

fallen despot.

coniplaints,

many Koka-

for justice

In consequence of these

their

should be

that

Mussulmen. The

nians

requested to

(judges), ^yere

served Vali-Khan, were deprived of

among

;

these

Kashgar. The

was Nar-Mahomet,

case of Vali-Khan-Tiiria,

however, notwithstanding the demand of Hudoyar that he should be executed, took a favourable turn

him

for

by

all

in

consequence of his cause being espoused

The members

the Seids

of the Sahib-Zadde

family, whoenjoyed the fanatical respect of the whole

population of Turkestan, advocated the interests of

Vali-Khan so

skilfully, that

he not only escaped

punishment, but his accusers ^vere

in

prosecuted and compelled to pay very

The

case of the

class of Seids,

Hodja

aflPected

all

their turn

heavy

fines.

the whole privileged

descendants of IMahomet,

who

are

exempted from execution and corporal punishment. Possessing the general confidence the

people,

and assured

safety, they boldly

and respect

of their

reproach the

own

Khan

for

of

personal

any mis-

Advances from

the Kokcniians to the Chinese.

deeds, thus acting as a sort of check

upon an

237

other-

wise unlimited despotism. After this

Khan was

it

be understood why Hudoyai-

will

so strongly opposed

by

all

the

members

of the Sahib-Zadde family,

arid

The

enforced in the case

of

right of punishment,

Vali-Khan-Tima might

if

in future

to the other Seids or Hodjas.

placed

be applied

surveillance,

gave orders at the frontier towns for every

who

also

Hudoyar, however,

the latter under close

all

by the Hodjas.

and

Hodja

passed the barriers more than ten times to be

brought under a guard to Kokan. In the spring of 1858 a Kokanian ambassador

was sent

to

Kashgar

to

renew the former

relations

with that town, and to inform the Chinese that the

former

Khan was

flight of the

had produced

all

officials

extremely concerned at the

Hodja, and that the rebel

who

the disorders at Kashgar was then

in irons. This the Chinese believed, or at least pre-

tended to do

so.

The

negotiation was entrusted to

Nasyr-Eddin, ruler of Shabrikhan, who had been sent as envoy in 1847, shortly after the rebellion of

the seven Hodjas. Matters were speedily arranged,

and the Kokanians received permission their

own

to have

Aksakal, and to trade on the same terms

as formerly.

The post of Aksakal was conferred

238 on

Travels hi Central Asia.

same Nasyr-Eddin, with the

this

The Kokan Aksakal month

arrived

at

title

of Datha.

Kashgar

of August, with a small caravan,

in the

and accom-

A

panied by 5000 Kashgarians of both sexes.

new Hakim-Beg, Alych, was appointed about time at years,

Kashgar.

was a man of advanced

He

.

but notwithstanding his

age,

every sensual vice without restraint.

Beg, his

assistant,

title

of Tiadzi,

light blue ball,

Beg,

who

Sypergu-Beg,

indulged

a

native of ball,

and

and the Sybergu-Beg wears a

and ranks

formerly

in

The Ishkaga-

The Hakim-Beg has a red

Yarkend. the

is

this

filled

in the fifth class.

Kutlu-

the post of Hakim-Beg,

was made governor of the settlement of Faizabad, but has subsequently been named Hakim-Beg of Ush-Turfan.

CHAPTER Trans-lli

and Chu

VII.

Districts.

—By

Veninkof.

—

Almaty or Vernoe.

EoRT Vernoe was Russians

first

founded

occupied

Ranging aldng the

in

the

1864, when the Trans-lli

foot of the Alataii

region.

chain, the

small but picturesque Almatynka rivulet, issuing

out

of the mountains, branches out into

several

small streams, that irrigate this military-agricultural colony, the population

between

five

and

six

Russian military and

of which consists of

thousand inhabitants. civil

administrations

The being

centred here, the place wears an animated appearance.

Unfortunately, notwithstanding the abun-

dance of stone in these parts, and in spite of the great scarcity of timber, which only grows in the

mountains, Almaty

is

entirely built of

wood.

As

240

Travels in Central As.in.

yet the houses have a clean and cheerful exterior,

but they will soon become dingy.

The preference

shewn by the Slavonic race

generally

for hasty

have to be

then

perishable

constructions

regretted.

The greater part

Almaty

engaged in agriculture, which

fair

are

will

of the inhabitants of yields a

remuneration for the labour bestowed on

and the Government buys up at

and

good

prices.

It lies

all

it,

the surplus grain

in 43° 16' N.

Almaty, we are entitled to suppose, will soon

become a place

of

no small commercial importance

The small Tartar

to all Central Asia.

a mosque,

now forming

settlement,

gives promise

the southern part of the

which

of Almaty,

developed in

of being

time into a large trading town. position

village with

is

The geographical mid-way between

Kuldja and Kokan, and on the road from Kashgar to

Semipalatinsk, justifies us in anticipating that

many merchants from tries

will

the three neighbouring coun-

convergence of

the

Asiatic commerce.

various

routes

is

Trading caravans, which so

usually passed

of

Central

Accordingly we find that the

commercial importance of Vernoe annually.

this point of

transfer their activity to

increasing late as

by without stopping, now

1856

always

halt here for traffic, although as yet supplying only

Favourable Agricultural Conditions of Vernoe. 241

Large purchases of

wants.

local

made each

are also

cattle

year in the vicinity for Kuldja, Tash-

kend,

and Petropavlovsk, which

distant

upwards of 800 miles from Vernoe.

The are

level of the sea is

Its

about 2500

height above the

feet,

and the mean

moisture of the air in spring, after mid-day,

This hygrometric

parching

052.

is

range clearly shows that

the

the Steppe does not affect a sub-

air of

mountainous

is

Almaty colony

agricultural conditions of the

extremely favourable.

place

latter

but

region;

is,

on the

contrary,

counteracted by the proximity of perpetual snows.

The humidity of the atmosphere, however,

prevails

only within a narrow zone bordering the mountains, at

a

decreases,

from

distance

certain

upon which the

which

it

rapidly

vegetation, thus deprived

of moisture, becomes entirely scorched towards the

commencement

of June.

The

latitude of

Vernoe

(43° 16') is almost identical with that of Marseilles.

But the

influence of a far inland climate,

combined

with the greater elevation of the former, produces a

marked

while the hot cessful

two

difference between these

summer

cultivation

of

places, for,

Almaty favours the

of grapes, pears

suc-

and melons,

plants requiring a mild winter, cannot be reared.

The range

of temperature during the .

year

R

is

as

~\~

Trmeh

much

106°

as

Fahr.

rising as high as 97°, to 9°

Ccnlral Asia.

im

;

the

heat

and the cold

summer

in winter falHng

Fahr.

The Kirghizes Vernoe

is

in

J'ernoe.

— The

features to

local

me

on

my

many

life,

—

with which

I

interesting

The

first arrival.

my

inhabitants facilitated

its

Sultan Ali.

the metropolis of the Kirghizes of the Great

Horde, and as such, presented

of

in

hospitality

observations of

soon became

familiar.

I

was particularly struck by the Kirghizes, who rode through the streets of Almaty with the same

and ease that they exhibit

archal dignity

The

Steppe.

camel,

"arghamak"

or

cow,

Turkoman

or

affluent

Kirghiz,

mount any other animal but Oxen and camels

in the

long-necked

and the Steppe

active, are seen be-

stridden by these gaily dressed Djigit,

the

horse,

but exceedingly

low,

trotter,

the

patri-

cavaliers.

however,

will

A

real

never

a thorough-bred horse.

are exclusively

owned by shepherds

and husbandmen, or " eginitches," while the argha-

mak

is

only found in possession of the wealthy and

distinguished,

Sultan Ali the Horde,

This old his day,

/.

man

and even by them is used but seldom. is

e.

the head of the largest division of of those

known

as

Dulat Kirghizes.

has seen a great deal of ad\ enture in

and having

at various

times been subject

243

Itifervicir loith Sulirm JJi.

to three States, he has learned to

adapt himself to

the customs of different countries.

many

In

instances

natural

his

ready wit were remarkable. of his intention of paying at the

same time

I

had been hiformed

a

visit,

me

to regard

cunning and

and was told

as a special honour,

it

seeing that the descendant of Ablai-Khan was not at

all

Although he received an

given to visiting.

allowance of 350 rubles

or about £52. \Qs.,

silver,

from the Russian Government, when required to attend at

Vemo^ on

official

business,

easy matter to ensure his presence military Ali,

head of the

district

it

The Russian

introduced

and the interview took place

was no

at

me

to

my own

quarters, in order that the dignity of a Russian officer,

sent

they

as

supposed

direct

Emperor, should not be compromised of the Kirghizes.

old in

I exerted

from the

in the

eyes

myself to please the

man, assuring him that he held a high place

my

estimation on account of the lofty position

he held in the Horde, and that

I appreciated the

me by his visit. Ali was and paid me the usual extravagant

honour he was paying equally polite,

Asiatic compliments. I said to him,

" I do not doubt, Sultan,"

" that your people are

having you for their

ruler.

happy

in

Your fame had readied R 2

244

Travels

me it

even at

St.

in

Cenfral Jsia.

now

Petersburg, and

see

I

that

represented only half your merits." "

Do

govern

man

not say so," answered the old

my

Padishah

people according to the decrees of the

—may

Heaven protect him

is

a rude block at

and serviceable

seemly

as

are the block, the deputy

him and

— and

is

a piece

arm-chair, under

my

and

I

people

Were

the joiner.

the Padishah,

his

but becomes

first,

this

the skilful hands of the joiner.

not for

!

As you must know,

deputy, the Pristav. of timber

" I

;

we should

it

always

remain blocks." "

You

are too modest,

speak whose wit razor,

and whose

as steel ?

AH

is

Can

Sultan.

he thus

as sharp as the well-stropped

will,

inclined to good,

of us certainly

fulfil

is

as hard

the wishes of

the Emperor, and

every one

obey the Pristav

but you. Sultan, are yourself

;

of high degree in the Horde.

in

Vernoe should

The

allegiance of

your people to the Padishah depends on you." "

My

people cannot but be faithful to the Padi-

shah and obedient to those he sets over live

together here as two hands.

are the right-hand,

we

the

left,

You

us.

We

Russians

and the Pristav

is

the head " (he here joined his hands, making the fingers

of one

fit

between those of the

other).

245

Instances of All's Astuteness.

*'

It

were indeed bad

the right, and

the

if

left

both did not

if

hand disobeyed the orders of

fulfil

the head." Ali, as already

three rulers.

mentioned, has been a subject of

In his youth he went to Pekin, to be

Bogdo-Khan

presented at the Court of the

but about

he

this visit

For a long time

Iziatsin;

not fond of conversing.

is

the

after

whole of

his

tribe

acknowledged the power of Kokan, although deputies from the

Horde had previously sworn

giance to Russia.

and

one occasion, the Sultan

his Bis, perceiving that the

bent on abolishing,

dependence of to

On at

alle-

any

cost,

the Horde

Kokanians were even the nominal

to Russia, determined

oppose their machinations by

force,

and planned

an attack on Kopal, which belonged to Kokan. Ali,

who with

his tribe

was then roaming along

them

the Koksu, was chosen by

But the

outbreak. lating

the

Enraged

artful

at this, the Sultans

"

him with cowardice. winds and

trails

at the entrance that

glides

in."

it

the

after calcu-

held

success,

aloof.

and Bis reproached

Most worthy Sultans and

Bis," Ali wrote, " the serpent, its nest,

commence

politician,

of

probabilities

to

when on

along slowly

erects itself

its ;

it

way is

to

only

and quickly

This answer disarmed their wrath,

"240

Travels in Central Asia.

and delayed the

enterprise,

which was ultimately

abandoned.

The Great Horde.— On the 24th May, 1859, joined

I

moved

an

to the

West from Vernoe, and on

day crossed the Kes-Kelen. a considerable rich

leads across a path into the

Kes-Kelen

we

Kebin

bordered by at its source

The

valley.

forms the limit of forests to the

defile

west of Vernoe

is

The road

land.

the next

This river contains

body of water, and

meadows and

which

detachment,

expeditionary

beyond

;

that,

to

the

It-Kichu,

did not observe a single tree, only the bar-

berry, briar,

observed,

as

and some

othei

a general rule,

bushes. that

It

may be

the forests of

Central Asia occur only on the slopes of mountains,

whose

summits are covered with

which supply the absence

of this

soil

with

moisture.

necessary condition,

the

snow,

In

the

atmo-

sphere of the Steppe exhausts the young trees as

soon as they commence to bud. The totally woodless character of the southern slopes of the mountains is

readily explained

by

this dryness of the air.

In the sultry valley of the Chu, near the mouth of the Karakanus, close to the

we observed

bed of the

of the mulberry

rivulet,

and peach.

a few trees growing

but these consisted

7

Progress of Civilization among the Kirghizes. 2 4.

Between the Keskelen and Kestek, dually

left

Vernod behind

joined by a escort

band

in the

it

us, our

these

most renowned

of the

It

was gratifying

men some symptoms

of the Sultans

and

to observe

of civilization, for

which they are exclusively indebted

Some

volunteered to

of the Horde, distinguished e'ther for their

valour or high birth. in

gra-

hopes of receiving some remuneration.

Amongst them were some

men

we

detachment was

who

of Kirghizes,

as

to the Russians.

Bis, in conversing with

me, expressed a desire to have their sons educated in

some

of the Russian military schools,

and loudly

inveighed against their wives and relatives

posed the scheme, through dread, after leaving their native auls, religion,

and

early

Other Kirghizes

mode

of

is

their

life.

whom we encountered here were

a few European habits.

Russians

op-

the children,

would forsake

to a certain degree self-educated,

fessed that the

lest

who

result

It

of

and had acquired

must, hoM'ever, be con-

their contact with

the

also but too frequently displayed in

a

development of vicious habits, many having become inveterate drunkards.

The Great Horde

gives fairer promise of civiliza-

tion than either of the others,

first,

on account of the

more favourable geographical conditions

of

the

~ iy

Travels

Steppe

and secondly, owing to the

occupies,

it

special attention paid

by the Russian Government

The

organization.

its

Central Asia.

in.

internal government of the

Horde, and the administration of justice by Bis,

its

own

have been retained without any. change, thus

offering

good guarantees

Bis, or

esteemed

known and

and natural

for a steady

The judgments

development of the people.

the

to

elders, are

of the

prompt, and based ou

universally recognised customs of

the Kirghizes, and produce consequently the hap-

The only

piest results.

objection to this system

that the judge takes presents from both sides. this

way

In

the most influential Sultans and Bis accu-

mulate considerable wealth. gifts,

is,

In addition to these

the elder Sultans yearly receive a sheep from

each of their respective auls, on which they feed the

who

applicants

This

is

in

seek their counsel and judgments.

accordance with the

which requires the judge those

who

terests.

entrust to

The

still

and feed

him the defence

all

of their in-

more impor-

those referred to the Bis

more

and murders, are

and

shelter

superior Sultans decide

tant matters than

cases of a

to

national custom,

;

but

serious nature, such as barantas

settled in a council of both Sultans

Bis.

In Mr. Levchin's work on the Kirghiz Steppes,

249

Distribution of the Great Horde.

there

very

is

information

little

Great Horde, which between

was scarcely

A

accessible.

concerning

the

1820-30

the years

brief account

of its

composition will therefore not be unacceptable in this place.

Three principal divisions of within Russian territory

— the

Horde roam

this

Djalairs, the Atbans,

which include the Suvans, and the Dulats, with various branches,

Chu

some of which wander beyond the

to the Talas

and Boraldai mountains.

The most nu-

amalganiate with the Uisuns.

last

merous

They

of the Dulats.*

division is that

These

oc-

cupy the whole region to the North-East of the Chu and Alatau range,

as far as the southern extremity

Lake Balkhash and the Altyn-Imel

of

thence eastward to the River Turgen.

eastward

it

;

part of

region

this

is

whom wander

where they pay tribute * The following of the Dulats

:

Still

and

further

extends along the ChUiu and Charyn,

and along the right banks of the

Koksu

pass,

is

Di, as far as the

occupied by the Atbans, a in

the Chinese dominions,

for their pasturages.

the composition of the priacipal sub-divisions

—The Seikym

branch numbers about 795 aids

the

;

Djanys, consisting of the Djailymys, Bals, Kybrai, Kashkaran, and other tribes, 1090 auls; the Butpai, with the Chogai, Kudaigul, and

Isenbai tribes, auls

;

and

Chemir, 1770

785 auls;

Itsy, 300.

The

latter

roam along the lower course

aiils;

camp on the

of the Hi.

Sary-Usium, 300

island of

.

Komau, and

250

Travels in Central

The

J-s:la.

Djalairs are diffused throughout the belt to

extreme North of the Great Horde along the

the

river Karatal

and

small affluents.

its

These form the largest group of the three sions of the

mated

may be

Horde, and the numbers

The Atbans

25,000.

at

diviesti-

(including the

Suvans) are inferior to them in numbers, and embrace not more than 20,000. These figures, however, it

should be understood are mere approximations, the

obstacles in the

way

of forming a correct estimate

being almost insuperable especially the

and

;

with

case

the

this

is

Great

still

more

Horde, the

Kirghizes of which are not subjected to any regular taxes.

The

figures given above are founded on state-

ments of certain Bis

as to the

number

yurts occupied by the two divisions.

way

it

may be computed

and Uisuns amounts

that the

of

In the same

at the lowest to

differs

given

somewhere about but very

115,000,

slightly

from

and

number of Dulats 70,000;

that the whole population of the Great

reach

aiils

Horde must

which

that

so

figure

originally

by Keppen.

The Kirghizes had

when our

corps

Numerous

left

retired

to

the

mountains

Vernoe.

aids of the various Dulat tribes were

scattered over the sub-mountainous region of the

251

Zoology of the Steppe.

Alatau, and along some of the rivulets where rich grass grows on the banks even at a considerable

distance fiom the hiUs.

In

month

the

May,

of

rally oflFer rich pasturages,

obliged

to

of

in

flies

the

the

but the Kirghizes are the swarms

protect themselves from

the low

to the

cattle,

cution

fairly

and

by

month

into

retiring

are a great scourge

flies

their

exhaust the

It is only in the

by

grounds

These

mountains.

gene-

Steppes

perse-

incessant

unfortunate

animals.

of July that the Kirghizes

descend to the plains, and then with but a small portion of their cattle, leaving the rest just below the snow-hne until the beginning of autumn.*

Zoology of the Steppe.

—Fauna. —To

the

Almaty the Alatau mountains gradually elevation, river,

till

West

of

lose their

at the upper course of the Kastek

they barely attain a height of 7500

But immediately beyond

* Towards the end

of July,

this

on

my

feet.

stream the conical-

return from the river Chu,

after ascending the Talgar, I fell in with

some large herds of

well-

fed horses and colts at an elevation of at least 9000 feet above the level of the sea,

and perhaps higher.

The one disadvantage

of these

away by marauding parties of Dikokamenni Kirghizes, especially of the

mountain sojourns

is

that the herds are very frequently driven

Slaty and Sary-bagysli tribes.

—

253

Trcweh

in

Central Asia.

its

rounded

feet.

In the

shapedSuok-Tiube (peak) mountain rears

summit

to a height of nearly

fissures

A

of

slopes the

its

;

10,000

snow remains

until July.

defile or depression in the ridge to the East of

Suok-Tiube

off'ers

times after

still

blows through

weather a strong Southerly wind

it

for

more than two hours.

has been previously

atmosphere

wind increases

Some-

a strange phenomenon.

If the

distm-bed,

in force towards the evening,

this

and

as-

sumes a Northerly direction from behind Suok-

Hence

Tiube.

mountain

it

might be inferred that the cold

descends

air

such times, while the

at

heated atmosphere of the plains lying to the North of the chain ascends to the top

but

;

this

surmise

requires to be confirmed by more accurate obser-

vation.*

What in the

are the animals

neighbourhood of the snowy mountains, where

the climate varies as

may

* in

A

which occupy the Steppe

we ascend?

This question

seriously engage the attention of the zoologist

somewhat

Northern

similar

Italy,

phenomenon

is

familiar to Alpine travellers

where, as for instance, on the Lakes of Como,

Lugano, Iseo, and Garda, a strong wind springs up pretty regularly towards sunset, and lasts two or three hours. It is less conspicuous

on Lago Maggiore, and cliain,

unless the

diblurbauce

is

somewhat

known

as the

unknown on

similar,

the northern side of the

but more capricious atmospheric

Eohu Ijc presumed

to be analogous.

[Ed.]

253

TFlId Sports of the KtrghAzes.

but

not void of interest for any and

it is

traversing the Steppes

persons

all

In the

Central Asia.

of

barren, woodless tracts, every evidence

of organic

existence involuntarily arrests the attention of the traveller.

Beyond those animals bred

number

of

mammals

speaking, not great.

man's

Steppe

is,

use, the

generally

The most numerous

are the

These follow the droves of the Kirghizes,

wolves.

and

in the

for

among

the shepherds and in the

aiils.

The loud barking

of the dogs on such occa-

sions

is

create panics

distinctly

heard throughout the neigh-

bourhood.

The next fox,

'

in

numerical abundance

marten, and marmot,

in the valleys of the

many

are

:

—the

of which are found

mountain streams.

Besides

these there are in the mountains and forests, bears, antelopes (saiga), red deer, tigers.

At the numerous

arkharas,

points

and a few

where the waters

of the rivulets running from the Alatau are choked

with reeds, wild boars abound in great numbers.

These are sometimes hunted by the Kirghizes, who organise battues for the amusement this sport aifords

them. the

A

wild-boar hunt

Cossacks when on

then feed well and

is

always a gala time for

the march, because they

make up

for their usual scanty

2")4

fare,

Trrirch in CenfraJ A>iin.

humorously replying

to over inquisitive stran-

gers that

tlieir

commissariat

reeds

swim

in

or

the

bide

cattle

in the

Lake or

Tssyk-kul

river

Chu. the winter the inhabitants of the

In

stations

around Almaty occasionally catch porcupines. shrew mouse

The

and Siberian jerboa (alactaga) are also

frequently found in the fields, but these animals do

no great damage

to the crops.

Birds are far more abundant in the Steppes of the Great Horde,

if

not in actual quantity, at least

The most common

in variety of species.

black grouse and the starling

are, the

Rosens,

of these

Pall.),

which

{Sturm ui^

collect in large flocks,

seen both running upon the Steppe

and

and

are

flying.

Eagles are seen in the mountains, and pheasants are frequently found in the valleys.

shot

by

The

latter are

the inhabitants of Almaty, and sent for

sale as far

The peewit frequents

even as Omsk.

the

stone tombs of the Kirghizes, and allows itself to

be

easily caught.

It is so

not attempt to escape even

pommel

sects

it

does

when placed upon

the

of the saddle.

The most numerous lizards

tame indeed that

and

are also

serpents

reptiles ;

of the

Steppe

and some species

common, such

as

are,

of in-

the phaJan(/ium,

Phalangmm.

Effects of the Bite of the

the karakurt,

the scutiger

and the chafer

damage

to the

On

the sun.

arenarius,

The

(cicada).

255

the

cricket,

latter does

no small

young corn before

scorched by

it is

the other hand, the venomous pha-

langium and karakurt are especially dangerous to

man.

The plialangium

spider, often

rows in the

of these parts

more than an inch

Where

earth.

the naturalist will rarely

venomous

the soil fail

it.

The

least

a large

to

sandy

is

all,

clay,

in with this

fall

Those who are obliged

insect.

the bare ground should, above against

is

long, which bur-

to lie on

take precautions

movement, or so much

as an involuntary contraction of the muscles during sleep, is

to occasion a bite, because the

sufficient

which

insect immediately grasps at the object from it

anticipates danger.

The phalangium

will,

ever, creep harmlessly over a motionless body.

the

moment

of the bite the pain

is

how-

At

inconsiderable,

something resembling that attending the sting of

The pain

the gnat, but the results are dreadful.

spreads quickly over the whole frame, accompanied

with fever, and

The only remedy

total

exhaustion

before the poison has

through the veins,

is

cupping;

always practicable, because the bitten part.

rapidly

but

More than

fifteen

circulated

this

it is difficult

follows.

is

not

to discover

of our

men

~5G

Travels

Central Asia.

in

suffered from the bite of this insect, and two of

them most

severely,

during the

night,

some time had

as

and

discovered

when

elapsed,

it

bitten

only after

the effects of the poi-

son began to show themselves.

One man who was

had very fortunately caught the phdangium

bitten

while

had been

they

still

ou his body, upon which he was

at once

cupped, and thus directly relieved of the conse-

quences of the

The

bite.

bite of the karakurt (earth

more dangerous than

spider)

ammonia

still

that of the phalangium, or

even that of the scorpion or tarantula. stances

is

In

all

in-

administered internally with

is

success.

Serpents

and

lizards

are

plentiful

about

the

Steppe, especially in the neighbourhood of reeds

and water, while the prevalence of venomous sects

is

confined to dry

eagerly exterminate

in-

The Kirghizes

localities.

the serpents, in apprehension

of danger to their cattle. that serpents are very

It

may be

here observed

numerous on the Northern

slopes of the Alatau, while the Southern declivities

of the range,

teem with

and more

jjJialanffia.

especially the

The

latter

Chu

Valley,

crawl from the

sandy shores of the Hi over the axid Steppe, to the

West from Kastek to Kurdai and

Dala-Kailar, and

Passaf/e of the Alafah C/ialn.

;257

thence spread Westwards over the desert Steppe of Betpak-dala, as well as Eastwards to the Kebin

There are

river.

tains,

\i.o

phalangea either in the moun-

where, owing to the moisture in the atmos-

phere the grass does not wither in the sun, or in the valleys, where the same conditions are preserved

by

irrigation

be made,

if

;

halts for the night should therefore

possible, in such places.

Passage over the Alatoh- Clm noissance.

—From the Kastek

— Unsuccessful Reconon the banks of

rividet,

which we halted for about a week,

several roads lead

The

to the Chu, across the Alatau Mountains.

first

and most difficult is that through the S uok-Tiube pass, which winds through wild and rocky Kastek

rivulet, after

rections.

which

it

defiles

up the

branches off in two

One,a narroAvbridle-pathjleads

to

di-

theKara-

Bulak, and the other to the Kara-Kupus streams.

This latter route

is

frequented by caravans, when,

from the accumulation of water

in the

are obliged to cross the river above

ther route, presenting greater

Chu, they

Tokmak.

Ano-

facilities for travellers,

leads along the Bish-Mailak stream, across the upper

course of the Djamanty, which likewise afterwards

emerges on the Kara-Kunus, opposite Tokmak.

was

along this latter that

we determined

It

to proceed.

258

Travels in Central Asia.

The detachment moved rapidly up the ascent summit

of twelve miles to the

of the mountains

crossed the ridge on the 7th of June.

the

I

and

measured

mountain rising near the source of the Dja-

manty, and found

its

height to be 7450 feet above

the level of the sea.

The view from

this

point

one of surpassing

is

grandeur, and produces a lasting impression on the

mind.

In the foreground extends the broken out-

line of

the craggy

chain

the Kirghiz Alatau,

of

beyond the Eastern extremity

of which, at a distance

of no less than one hundred miles, clearly-defined

summits of the

Celestial Mountains,

Lake Issyk-Kul.

overhanging

are visible the

Below, under the

very feet of the wondering traveller,

spreads the

Valley of the Chu, through which the river, whose

borders are fringed with green waving reeds, winds

The

in a silvery line.

bears from

a distance

cottage

the

in

Through the

midst

little

Tokmak*

appearance of a small

the of

fortress of

the

clear blue sky, the

mountain Steppe.

snowy peaks

ot the

Kirghiz-Alatau glimmer in the western horizon, and the

Chu

When,

Valley gradually widens in that direction. after a

narrow and

journey of eighteen miles along a

very

* This was in 1859

;

hilly

pathway,

the fortress

is

we

now no longer

descended in existence.

Fate of a Bobber of the Steppe. into this valley,

The

aspect,

sun,

and

the

defiles

it

it

of a dismal and barren

was everywhere scorched by the

grass

was necessary to drive the in

should recover aiils

we found

259

cattle

into

that

they

from the fatiguing journey.

No

search

so

of pasture,

or herds were visible

;

occasionally a solitary

armed horseman, watching the movements of our corps,

would appear

moment, fully

in the distance,

and,

dispel the solitude of the scene.

for a I care-

examined the neighbourhood, which had been

previously visited but

covered that

we

by few Europeans, and

stood

to the

close

spot

dis-

where

Kenisar Kasimof, celebrated in the annals of the Steppe, was killed by the Kirghizes. lant

marauder long incited the Russian Kirghizes 1840-50

revolt during the years his

This turbu-

;

but at

to

last lost

head on the banks of the Chu, near the mouth of

the Kara-Kunus.

The

following are the sole re-

corded particulars of this event driven

by

the

:

—After having been

Russian troops to the extreme

Southern part of the Steppe, he here encountered

new

opponents

in

the

Kara-Kirghizes.

The

treachery and continual depredations of Kenisar at last so

exasperated the long-suffering Dikokamenni

Kirghizes, that they fiayed his

body in a cauldron, and

him his

alive

and boiled

head, after s

2

being

Trarcis in Central Jsia.

i()i)

struck

off,

was exhibited

at

Kopal and Tashkend.

Government rewarded the Manap

The Russian

Urman, who had been the most suit of the rebel,

by conferring on him the rank

of

and gave twelve gold medals

to

lieutenant-cojonel

the chiefs

;

who had taken

soon

mencement

this

after

Nifantief visited

structed the

first

part

in

the battle

which Kenisar was taken.

Kiklik-Sengir, in

1847,

in the pur-

active

the

map

event,

the

it.

This

In

topographer

Alatau country, of

at

and

con-

was the com-

knowledge of the regions ad-

of our

joining

Kokan and

the Celestial Mountains.

Our

halt at the

Kara-kunus was marked by an

untoward occurrence. panied

us,

The Kirghizes who accom-

hearing that a party of the Dikokamenni,

having paid a depredatory

after

visit to their auls,

were on their way back, and woidd cross the Chu at Kiklik-Sengir,

determined at

Our

tercept the robbers. in

number

500

to the

strong,

it

all

hazards to

in-

Kirghizes, being inferior

Dikokamenni, who were about

was necessary to reinforce them with

50 Cossacks.

But the impatience of the

had resulted

in

a

Asiatics

disastrous termination of the

affair

before the

Cossacks had time to reach the

scene

of action.

A

Djigits

Sultan, a Batyr,

and three

were taken prisoners by the Dikokamenni

!

Marvellous Recovery from Severe Wounds. 261 Kirghizes, and

a

Kirghiz

of the

assaiUng party

was wounded in the chest by a spear, the point of

which entering

his back,

broke one of his

but two days

53 miles

distant,

than a month, as

Whether is

pierced

the

lungs,

which protruded through the

this

after returned to his aul, about

and was again on horseback in if

nothing had happened

facility of

recoveiy

when on

the march, or

skilful surgical

M'hether

it is

less

!

from wounds

attributable to the moderate diet of the

am

and

This man, strange to say, not only remained

skin. alive,

ribs,

Asiatics

owing

to tlie

treatment of the native doctors,

I

not prepared to say.

Geograp-hical particulars relating to the its Valley.

—As the new

situated in latitude43°

3',

Russian

fort of

Chu and

Kastek

is

and the embouchure of the

great Kebin, into the Chu,

lies in 4.2° 4',

it

would

seem that the breadth of the Alatau in the meridian of this fort is

about 30 miles. The southern slope of this

latter ridge is abrupt,

poor in vegetation, and affords

no convenience, even

for

slope

is

gated.

richer in grasses

nomad

life.

and more

They both descend on

The northern

plentifully irri-

plains,

tend high above the

level of the sea.

observations, though

made during

which ex-

Barometrical

a short period of

262

Travels

i/i

Central Asia.

3200

time, gave the height of Kastek at

3600

feet for the

Tokmak

bed

of the

When we

fort.

Chu

and

feet,

near the former

consider the low level of

the Syr-Daria Steppes, about Telekul-tat, Saumalkul, Babystyn-kul,

and other

lakes,

easy to

it is

account for the rapid current of the Chu.

It is a

turbid stream, running apparently along a horizontal

but watering in reality a Steppe, rising

plain,

pretty rapid

The reeds

inclination.

current, but, though they are thus

water

is still

very

protect

away by

banks from being washed

at a

the

the swift

defended, the

muddy.

The Chu emerges from the

Celestial

mountains

under the name of the Koshkar, and runs

first in

North-Easterly direction to the lake Issyk-Kul.

a

Its

high valley contracts here in some parts into narrow After breaking through the rocky Kizyl-

ravines.

Ompol

ridge, the

Koshkar

issues suddenly into the

basin of a neighbouring lake, pursues

its

course for

three miles farther, and throwing off on the East a

small branch,

the

Kutemaldy,

with the whole body of tains.

bears idea of

its

disappears

waters into the moun-

The wild gorge through which the its

name

of

rapidity

Boam.

again

In order to

at this part,

it

say that from Issyk-Kul to the old

loishes

it

form an

is sufficient

Tokmak

fort,

to a

Interne Dryness of the Air in the Steppe

distance of

47

miles,

it

has a

fall

of

1600

is

inuch

its

whole course of 2067 miles, from

greater

Astrakhan.

than that

Even 20 miles

less

after

it

its

source to

emerges from current

its

over

not

is

than 10 feet per second.

The mouth

which commences

valley of the Chu,

of the

Already at Pishpek

than

from North

1 1 miles across

to the

at the

Kebin and Djel-aryk, rapidly widens

towards the West.

it is

South

to

no

less

farther

;

West, near It-Kichu, the distance between

the mountains on the right and still

which

feet,

the Volga

of

the mountains, the swiftness of

263

greater.

bank, becomes

left

There are few places on the surface

of the earth where the dryness

of the atmosphere

reaches such an extreme point, as

did here on the

it

10th June, the humidity of the atmosphere on that

day being expressed

at

0.12!

This figure

lowest hitherto obtained in any country.

and Rose made

boldt, Ehrenberg,

the

is

Hum-

observations on

the dryness of the air in the Steppes bordering the Irtysh,

when they

got 0.16 as a result.

Even the

Khorassan expedition of 1858 did not find lower than 0.14 in Northern Persia. this dryness

The

it

effect of

appears in the monotony and paucity

of the vegetable

kingdom

of the

Chu

in its little adaptability for settlements.

valley,

and

The majes-

264 power of

tic

Central Aura.

'J'racela in

nataire presents itself here in striking

man, and

contrast to the impotence of

that imtil the Caspian

safely asserted

with the Black Sea,

can be

it

is

connected

waters reduced to the same

its

level as those of the ocean,

and their surface spread

over a portion of the Volga, Turkmen, and Oren-

burg Steppes, so long tral

Cen-

will the greater part of

Asia remain incapable of development.

As the

Chu

valley of the

gradually widens,

resemblance to a desert becomes stronger.

its

Only

along the Southern borders of the plain, a zone, well-watered, and consequently

dure and groves of apricot and

marked with c)ther trees,

its

tributaries

extends

On

along the base of the Alatau mountains.

North bank of the Chu

ver-

the

terminate

with the Dali-Kaipar rivulet, beyond which, farther to the

West, spreads a barren waste.

that, notwithstanding

table

nature

described region.

of

much

this

It is strange

the melancholy and inhospiregion,

earlier

than

Information respecting

it

was

visited

even the it

is

and

Trans-Ili

contained in

the works of Pospelof, Burnashef, Teliatnikof, and

Potanin.

Additional particulars were gathered by

Colonel Schultz,

who was

sent to the

Chu

in

1S52

from Siberia, to explore the surrounduig country with a view

to its military capabilities

and prospect

Animal Life

in the J^alley

"

of agricultural development.

265

of the Chu.

At ordinary times,"

says that officer, " the depth of water in the Chu,

from the Tulu tomb to Sauman-kul Lake, than two

is

not less

feet, which increases to a fathom

half at full water during spring,

At

banks become submerged. vans are unable to ford the construct rafts of reeds,

when

river,

and a

the depressed

this

period, cara-

and must therefore

bound together by ropes

which they transport their goods

of camel hair, on

swim the

across, forcing the cattle to

As

river.

the waters subside the river becomes fordable in

many at

places, the

most frequented fords being those

Kazangan, Tasty, Toi-tiube, Bish-kurgan, and Fish are pretty plentiful in the

Kara-utkul. particularly

Venomous

in

the adjoining lake

insects are less

valley of the

Chu

Beger-kul.

of

numerous

river,

in

the lower

than in the upper part of

its

course.

Gnats and moths on the other hand are a

positive

scourge

to

man and

abundance of these insects quantity of reeds, which, line

owing

innumerable

is

The

to the great

should be observed,

both banks of the Chu from Tokmak.

height of these reeds

and

it

is

beast alike.

The

sometimes three fathoms,

boars,

and even

tigers,

find

shelter in these jungle-like recesses.

"

The

tiger

is

common

in the Steppe,

throughout

266

Travels in Central Asia.

Central Asia, particularly in the reeds and copses

along the banks of the rivers. region this

In the Trans-Ili

animal prowls in the mountains, and

Beyond the

has even been shot near Vernoe.

Hi,

however, tigers are generally not so numerous as on the

Syr-Uaria

Northwards,

the

in

Fort

about

(Jaxartes)

heart

range of this animal extends as

Steppe,

the

of

far

Perofski.

as Kopal,

the i. e.,

to 45° latitude; and isolated individuals have been

encoimtered farther North than this comparatively

high

Towards the East,

parallel.

the large -wild cat fact

up

is

to the 49th

in Manchjuria,

found much farther North,

and even 50th

parallel.

in

Owing to

the abundance of food, the latter attains, in these regions, a great size."

As

a pendent to these purely geographical ob-

Chu

servations on the

w^ords

relative to the

serve to explain

must

region,

must add a few

Barren Desert.

why our knowledge

necessarily be limited to

of local objects, without

who

I

They

of these parts

a dry enumeration

touching on the people

only stray into these wilds by chance.

Betpak-dala,"

say Pospelof

covered with thorns and scarcity

of water

which are few

in

it is

will

"

The

and Burnashef, "is

wormwood

;

owing

to the

uninhabited, and the wells,

number, often contain bad water.

The Barren Desert of Betpak-dala.

Although

in

caravans

the spring,

may

267

obtain

a

supply of this element from the thawing snows, in

summer they

the

dig wells

are obliged at their night halts to

two fathoms below the

The

surface.

whole breadth of the Steppe, from North to South, along the road from Semipalatinsk to Tashkend,

one hundred and twenty miles. side, or

more properly in

marshes are numerous

when

;

On

its

Southern

depressed valley,

its

is

salt

these overflow in spring

the snows dissolve, but become completely

A

dry during the hot weather. carried off from their surface

fine acrid dust is

by the wind, which

blows frequently and with great violence from the

On

East.

the South of the Chu, the appearance

of the Steppe changes

the salt marshes and half-

;

exposed clayey tracts of country are replaced by dry sands, on which here and there grow the Sak-

Djuzgun, Djeralchik, and other plants of the

saul,

On

prickly species. of the

Chu

to

Lake Kara-kul, a distance

three miles, there

themselves

as

the is

Sahara.

is

of thirty-

not a single well in this arid

Caravans are therefore obliged to supply

desert.

for

the journey from the banks

with

night,

water

and

the custom

in

their

at

carry

it

Nubia,

in

halting-places

leathern

Arabia,

and

bags,

the

268

Travch

in Central Asia.

Brief Account of the Country lying South of the Chii.

—The immense hollow occupied by Lake

Kul and the Chu

Issyk-

the mountainous

valley, limits

country of the Dikokamenni Kirghizes,

and the

A Hne of

Kokanian

Khanat

of

towns and

Kokan on

the North.

fortified settlements,

extends Southward

from the Chu, along the route fromTokmak to Fort

The Western portion

Perovski.

of this country

is

occupied by the Kara-tail ridge, which, commencing at about ninety miles from Akmechet, stretches in

an E.S.E. direction, and forms a rugged chain,

whose Northern

declivities

have a very steep

incli-

nation, while those on the South slope gently to the

At the very base

plain.

North

are

side,

of the mountains, on the

two Kokanian

Suzak and

forts,

Cholok-kurgan, which have each small outlying

The roads from

tlements.

Tashkend

pavlovsk and Troitsk lead past these over

passage routes

to

through

the

Turkestan three

mountain

Karagyr, and Sauskandyk. the most

easily traversed,

passes

The

way

—

first

The

on these is

effected

Suiindyk, of these

is

and occurs on the road

between Suzak and Turkestan. ing this

forts.

Tashkend

and

Petro-

to

Kara- tail mountains

set-

Caravans proceed-

to Petropavlovsk, journey three days

from the foot of the mountains

to

the River Chu,

Lake Knrnknl and at about falls

thirty miles

Lake

into

the Boroldai Clirnn.

from the point

at

:269

which

it

The passage over

Satiman-kul.

the sandy Steppe in this direction presents greater

than that from Cholok-kurgan to Kazan-

facilities

In some places

gan-utkul.

met

whole

The

forests of the is

throughout

good, and the water in the wells sweet.

The barren

Saksaul

are.

with.

grass

Steppe again commences on reaching the Northern side of the

kuduk ment

is

Chu, and the route by way of Uvanas-

as tedious as that to Tius-Bulak, a settle-

in the

Betpak-Dala Steppe, on the road from

Kazangan-Utkul.

The

Kara-taii mountains, I

may

here remark, are at present occupied by the de-

scendants horde.

whole

of Kenisar,

They

are the

route from

and the remnants of

most

his

fierce plunderers on the

Tashkend

to the Siberian line.

East of the meridian of Cholok-Kurgan, the only objects of attention are the

Karakul lakes, overgrown

with masses of reeds, and the Boroldai mountain range. These localities have apparently been visited

by but one European, namely,

On

the authority

have altered the

Miiller, in

1739.

of Potanin's " Itinerary," I

configuration

from that ordinarily given

it

of

Lake Karakul

on maps.

With

re-

gard to the Talas, we are more acquainted with this river at its

middle course, near Aulie-Ata, than

at

270 its

Travels in Central Asia.

lower portion.

by the Jesuit

fixed

In the

of astronomical points

list

missionaries,

who were employed

Tsian-Lun,

we

by the Emperor

find one point

selected on this river, in latitude 42° 30°, and longi-

tude 91° 37' east of Ferro (73° 42' 4S" E. of Greenwich)

;

but whether

recent data,

the determination of

this is

Auhe-Ata or another

point, in the absence of to ascertain.

it is difficult

speaking, the observations of latitude

which

Jesuits are reliable,

those

of longitude.

I

Generally

made by

the

not the case with

is

am

more

opinion that the

of

labours of Reguip, Bouve, Gerbillon, Eerbiste, &c., in the reign of

juria

Han,

in

China Proper,

in iManch-

and Mongolia, are more accurate than those

of Hallerstein, Arochi

and Espigny,

in Turkestan

and Dzungaria.

The accompanying gives

some

Itinerary

the Boroldai range.

1 F)

the northern slopes of

The Talas

has no good pasturage on

is

Appendix

particulars of the route l^etwcen Cholok-

Kurgan and Aulie-Ata, along

valley, are

(v.

its

river, like the

Chu,

banks, which, with

both overgrown with reeds.

The

its

river

pretty abundantly supplied with water where

first

issues

from the mountain,

though fordable

at this point.

comes gradually narrower,

till

at

AuHc-Ata,

Lower down

it

it

al-

be-

nothing but a small

;

Account of Bikokamenni Horde.

271 ^

stream of water debouches into Lake Kara-kul.

Above

Aiilie-Ata

and

sources

its

basin, almost

A real

flows through a narrow valley,

it

lie

in the vicinity of the

on the same meridian

In this

as Pishpek.

beyond the

terra incognita extends

as far as Ferganah.

Kashgar

classification,

prehend the country between the

Talas, I

com-

parallels of Aulie-

Ata and Namangan, before reaching the more

On

mote table-lands of Central Asia.

my

re-

the strength

journey,

and

according to the accounts of a few travellers

who

of information

I

on

obtained

have visited the South-Western part of the Khanat of Kokan, two

main chains appear

to extend here

one on the Northern side of Chirchik, terminating with the Kyzyrkurt mountains, rather farther to the North than Tashkend; the other,

Southwards from Chirchik, tremity being

We

its

stretching

South-Western ex-

formed by the Kendyr-tau range.

are acquainted with

two routes which

these mountains, or skirt their base

;

cross

one running

Eastwards from Aulie-Ata to Namangan

;

the other

from Turkestan to Kokan, approaching the Kyzyrkurt range, and then crossing the Kendyr-tau.

The Dikokamenni Horde. ghiz

Horde and

its

—With

subdivisions,

the great Kir-

of which I have

,272

7Vr/reJs in Central Asia.

given a short account in the preceding pages,

more or

less

subject, as

we are

acquainted from Levchin's work on this

well as from other sources.

But our

information respecting the Kara- Kirghizes, other-

wise Buruts, or Dikokamenni Kirghizes, ingly

The

limited.

reliable

earliest

respecting them, (and even these

with caution), have been

particulars

must be

strung

exceed-

is

received

together from

Chinese sources by Klaproth and Pere Hyacinthe,

and

a few desvdtory remarks respecting this

are to be found in the works of

and

A

"\^eliaminof-Zernof.

was

scription

drawn

up

Horde

Wood, Khanikof,

more systematic in

1851,

by

de-

jMM.

Nifantief and ^'^oronin, and presented to the Rus-

An

sian Geographical Society.

these materials will the Buruts

ni Horde, tribes

we

show that the ethnography

is still vci-y

For the following

details

lie

all

of

imperfect.

regarding the Dikokamen-

and particularly

whose haunts

examination of

for those bearing

close to the

Russian

on the

frontiers,

are indebted to Mr. Bardashef, the intelligent in-

terpreter attached to the chief of the Alatavi district: "

'Dikokamenni 'is the name given by the Russians

to the people

who

chiefly frequent

about Lake Issyk-Kul, and

call

the mountains

themselves Kir-

ghizes, in contradistinction to the Kaisaks (or

more

—

;

Kirghiz Legends of their Origin as a Nation. 273

The former

properly, Koisaks). tinct history,

race has no dis-

and may hardly be considered

to be-

long to the aboriginal population of the country, in

which the Nogais

dominant.

One

(or

Kalmyks) were formerly

portion of them,

certain,

is

it

migrated to the Thian-Shan mountains from the

upper part of the Yenisei, where, so early

as the

seventeenth century, they were engaged in hostilities against

But the Kara-Kirghizes

the Russians.

usually claim to be of Western origin, to have once inhabited countries

occupied even to

the present time by Turkish tribes.

be allowed, is

is

and profess

This,

must

it

borne out by their language, which

the Uigur dialect of the Turkish, with an admix-

ture of foreign words.

The imagination

of the people

has surrounded with romance the cradle of their race, as

having lain in the mountains bordering on the

Naryn and the Southern margin

The

following

is

of

Lake Issyk-Kul.

one of the legends to this

which, however, has but

little

to

effect,

recommend

it

in

point of fancy, and does not convey a very favourable idea of the aesthetic condition of the Kirghiz "

'

The daughter

of a certain

Khan was

habit of taking long walks, accompanied

maidens.

Returning home

after

:

in

by

the

forty

one of these pro-

menades, she found her aul completely pillaged

274

Travels hi Central Asia.

but one living animal having been

dog (Kyzj'l-Taigan).

By

this

left in it

—

a red

xanto vizard sire,

all

the forty handmaidens,' says the tradition, 'became

memory

pregnant, and, in

of them, their descend-

assumed the name of Kirghizes (Kryk-Kys,

ants

forty maidens).'

This legend

is

with additions and variations. says,

occasionally given

Another

version

and her attendants were

that the princess

miraculously fecundated after having tasted the foam of the lake

when

agitated,

expelled from their

wandered

The

and were

homes by

in

consequence

They

their relatives.

about in the desert for a long time.

forty maidens, regarding

the princess as the

cause of their misfortunes, at last rebelled against

and drove her beyond the Chu.

her,

poor daughter of the

Here the

Khan was found by

the pro-

genitor of the Kirghizes, w ho installed her as one of his wives,

and

goodly son, is

whom

she speedily presented with a

named Kyrgyz-Beg.

This personage

considered the true founder of the Dikokamenni

race.

He was

persecuted by his other brothers on

account of his dubious origin, and portioned the death of his father

;

off

on

ultimately, however, he

triinnphed over his brothers, having succeeded in stealing

and

from

l)ridle,

his mother's

'

yurt,'

the

Kumis

stick

whicli are sym1)ols of priority of birth."

—

Ancestry of the Kara-Kirghiz Horde.

From Kyrgyz-Beg, distinct,

and

275

the traditions become

more

lose their imaginative character.

The

proper names of the Kara-Kirghiz chief ancestors are, nevertheless,

very doubtful.

Kyrgyz-Beg had two grand-sons

The

:

Abl and Kovl.

was the founder of the Kokche, Soru,

latter

Mundus, and Kytai designated

Sol

i.

tribes, e.

Left

From Abl

Klaproth).

which are conjointly Buruts

(Western

of

there sprang ten tribes,

forming the On, or Bight division (Eastern Buruts).

The

tribes

forming

it

are

the Bogu, Sary-Baguiche,

:

Sultu, Cherik, Sayak,Adygine, Baguiche,

All these petty roaming

Djadygyr, and Tungatar.

mountain

occupy

tribes

Monandyr,

the

between

country

Badakshan and Kungei-Alataii, from the Tekes and

Muzart passes with which

we

to

Kokan and Samarkand. The tribes

are best acquainted are the Diko-

kamennl, Sary-Baguiche, Sultu, and Bogu. first-named at

course of the Chu, as far of Issyk-Kul.

or

not

less

warlike race,

present Adil,

are

The

present wander along the upper

p the Western

extremity

They number about 10,000

They

than 40,000 individuals.

and

their

Umbet-Ali,

most celebrated Turegildy,

yurts,

are a

chiefs at

Ruskul-Beg,

and Djantai. Eastward of the Sary-Baguiches,

along the Tiube, Karkara, and

Tekes,

roam the T 2

276

Travch

Bogus, whose

At

Russia.

Central

high

late

and the

particularly from

After these

its strife

numbering 6000

lost its

is

yurts,

Kirghiz-Alatau

Aulie-Ata, and their the

former weight,

the

On

to the

a small tribe

Sultys,

but the most warlike

The Sultys

mountains,

in

inhabit

from Tokmak to

camping- grounds are conter-

East

with

those of the

Baguiches. Their most influential chief ratch.

into

with the Sary-Baguiches.

Dikokamenni Horde.

on

up

two sub-hordes, the nearest

Russian boundaries

minous

fealty to

tribe being split

numerous sub- divisions, has

the

Buram-bai, was the

chief,

the present time, the Bogus have no

influential chiefs,

the whole

Ji^in.

Kara-Kirghizes who swore

of the

first

in

is

Sary-

Djan-Ka-

the South, the Sultys spread only as far

beyond which they

are

succeeded by various tribes of the right and

left

as the valley of the Talas,

divisions of the Horde.

The Sayaks roam on the Southern Celestial mountains, along the

Navyn

;

to the

and Nuan tlie

to

Cheriks.

side of the

upper course of the

Eastward of them,

as

far

as Aksii

Kucha, are the camping-grounds of

These

tribes,

with their neighbours,

the Bagniches, descend in winter from the slopes of the Thian-Shan into the valley of the Tarym,

and

thence

push

forward

as

far

as

Kashgar,

Distribution of the Dikokamenni Kirghizes.

and even

Yarkend,

The geographical

Khotan.

Horde

distribution of the other branches of the to determine

difficult

;

certain,

it is

277

is

however, that

they occupy the whole system of the Bolor, Badakshan, Karatigen, and

Vokhan

chains,

and frequent

the neighbourhoods of Ush, Andijan, Kokan, and

even Tashkend, to the N.W., and Samarkand to the

Khanat of

The

S.W. of

of these

influence

Kokan

is

very great

Khan, Alym-Beg

the

Andygine

the

;

a

is

tribes

minister

first

scion

in the

from the

while to that of Karatigen belongs

tribe,

Kokan army, who

the well-known leader of the

in

1860 attacked Kastek.

The

condition

political

Kirghizes defined.

is

at

Some

the

of

Dikokamenni

once varied, uncertain, of

them,

for

as

and

instance,

ill-

the

Bogus, and part of the Sary-Baguiches, profess to

be subject to Russia, although internally they are not governed by that country, and only occasionally

appeal to

the

settlement of their tribes,

Russian

own

authorities

intestine disputes.

for

the

Other

such as the Sultu, Adygine, Kytai, &c., of

the Sol or Left division,

and pay tribute

own

allegiance to

to that Khanat.

A

Kokan,

third portion,

composed of the Cheriks and Baguiches, pay the Chinese a land-tax, although they govern them-

Travels in Central Asia.

27)5

Lastly, the tribes on the extreme South,

selves.

occupying the Bolor mountains,

Badakshan, subject

Kunduz,

Bokhara,

to

independent,

partly

are,

which States they

Karatigen,

and partly

Kokan,

or

and

with

enmity.

are, nevertheless, often at

Respecting the inhabitants of these highlands of Asia,

we have

his

in

scarcely any information.

" Travels

Bokhara,"

to

only

Burnes, casually

observes that the Kirghizes, natives of the Pamir

whom

he met, have

Turkmen.

In

other

not

nor

known

Wood

to

he mentions

places

meat and milk, and that

their food consists of is

and resemble the

faces,

flat

But

them.

that flour

Burnes

neither

touches on the moral condition of these

moimtaineers.

Among

the

Dikokamenni Kirghizes upon the

outskirts of Russia, there are like the

Sultan families

in

no

aristocratic races

Kaisak

the

Hordes.

The people consequently form one equal mass, differing only according

The Kara-Kirghizes

branches.

Manaps, or titles

by

to their

elders,

election,

hereditary.

who

governed by

one time received their

The word Manap

name

are

though these have now become

tyrant, in the ancient

the proper

at

sub-division in

Greek

literally

sense.

It

means a

was

at first

of an elder distinguished for his

name Kara-Kuyhiz.

Oriyin of

and unrelenting

Cruelty

pellation

In

spirit

became general

addition

observed,

not

are

of

who,

as

rulers.

already

lineage,

aristocratic

who

Kirghizes have Bis,

Kirghiz

all

Manaps,

the

to

from him the ap-

;

to

279

the

their differences.

settle

These Bis found their judgments on the customs of the people,

but

that they are far

throughout

it is

from being impartial.

Central

Asia,

powerful, and the niler

mands but

little

The name

may be their

who

people

The

the

when he

Black Kirghiz,

or

who,

Manaps,

phraseology,

do

democratic,

is

according

spring

not

It

from

must be

of a

its

of to

the re-

the

elders enjoy great power.

Manap

is

likewise a Batyr

particularly

—

/.

c.

strong,

a brave

dashing leader of marauding expeditions. bai,

oi'igin

although the organization of

influence

the

respect.

traced to the undistinguished

that is

to

governs leniently com-

"white bone" of the Sultans.

marked

Truth,

subservient

is

of Kara- Kirghiz,

chiefs,

Kirghiz

scarcely necessary to say

and

Buram-

the ruler of the Bogus, was a chief of this

description.

In general, the

Manaps do not

derive

any regular income from the people, but receive voluntary contributions, and impose fines on those

they find guilty of misdemeanours.

I

need not

2yO

Travels

in

Central Asia.

point out the evils that arise from such a state of things, or the faciHties

enjoy for satisfying at

which the Manaps and Bis once their ambition

and

cupidity.

Life and Condition of the Kara-Kirghizes.

—The

Kara-Kirghizes, like the nomads of the neighbom*-

ing

Steppe,

breeding

;

derive

all

their

wealth

so well off as the Kirghizes of the Great

cattle

and Middle

Very few amongst them possess

Hordes. as

from

but the Dikokamenni are generally not

as

many

two thousand horses or three thousand sheep.

They

likewise keep fewer camels, but on the other

hand, they have an excellent breed of oxen, are

employed

for

which

traversing the mountains.

The

camels are the ordinary double-humped or Bactrian

camel of

classical writers,

or dromedary, which latter

and the single-humped, is

universally preferred.

Although the cows belonging to the Dikokamenni are of a large size, they yield

then only of

when with

calf.

but

whom

Kudos." From these more milk

than from ordinary

cattle.

is

they are

obtained

Their sheep are of the

Kirghiz breed, but have finer are small, but

milk, and

Yaks are kept instead

cows by the Kara-Kirghizes, by

called "

little

fleeces.

The horses

being hardy, are well adapted

for

A(jnculture

and

the mountainous country.

281

the Chase.

The

cattle are never sub-

ject to epidemics; the only disease that attacks is

the Sarpa, a sort of dry rot, by which they gene-

Until quite recently the Bogus

rally lose their hoofs.

were the largest

Both these

large. rest.

cattle breeders

now, however, the

tribes are richer than

The Dikokamenni Kirghizes

ployed in agriculture. clayey,

fully as

any of the

are generally

Although the

soil is

em-

mostly

and becomes dreadfully parched by the sun,

by an ingenious system of

yet

;

and herds of the Sary-Baguiches are

flocks

it

them

yields

good

wheat eighty

artificial

irrigation,

harvests, millet yielding seventy

The

fold.

richest land lies

and

at the

Eastern extremity of Lake Issyk-Kul, along the

Tiub and Djirgalan, the Zaiiku, and bourhood of

Tokmak and Pishpek

in the neigh-

along

;

the

Northern and Southern shores of Issyk-Kul, the soil

is

stony and

therefore but

The Kara-Kirghizes sow barley (for horses), millet,

races,

is

a special

cultivated.

principally millet, wheat,

and kupock, a smaller kind of

from which they

The chase

little

not,

distil

as with

pursuit,

a spirit.

most semi-barbarous

by the Kara-Kirghizes,

although the mountains abound with game.

Oc-

casionally, however, they hunt the wild sheep,

antelope,

and goat

for

pastime.

The deer

is

282

Travels in Central Asia.

killed for its

horns alone, which when containing

blood, are highly prized cine,

and sold

from £8 to £25 per

at

foxes

pair,

according

and martens, whose skins they dispose

to Tartar merchants,

They

as a medi-

Besides the eagle, the Dikokamenni

to their quality. kill

by the Chinese

though not

likewise hunt bears

know how

of

in great quantities!

and wolves, but do not

the skins, which the rich

to prepare

Kara-Kirghizes accordingly use undressed as carpets for their tents.

The Dikokamenni Kirghizes and catch but

httle,

are not fond of

fish,

notwithstanding that [jake

Issyk-Kul might yield the

man abundant

supply of

Carp, in particular, are very

this delicious food.

plentiful in its waters.

The

Kirghizes great

among

chief staple of industry is

the preparation of

demand on account

felts,

the Kara-

which are

in

The

of their durability.

Dikokamenni who range along the Talas manufacture the best. in

shape,

The Kara-Kirghiz

with

turned-up

a

esteemed throughout

all

felt hats,

brim,

the Hordes.

weave a rough material of camel's "

Armiachina" by the Russians.

Dikokamenni Kirghiz robe, with

The

are

conical

much

The women hair,

called

dress of a

consists of a Khalat, or long

wide pantaloons, or " Chembars."

A

;

283

State of Trade. shirt is also

clothing

is

sometimes worn, but

not taken

off,

but

this

article

suffered to

is

of

fall

to

pieces on the person of the wearer.

The Dikokamenni of those

in

directly in

even

the

Kirghizes, with the exception

vicinity

any of

their

of towns,

own

do not drive horses

or Kuldja.

do not

traffic

They

productions.

Kokan,

to

Kashgar,

All the trade in their country

is

carried

on by Tashkend, Kokan and Kashgar caravans, and

by Russian merchants.

partly

Kara-Kirghizes, with

all

These supply the

sometimes remain a whole year among

Prom Kashgar

the

and

their requirements,

Dikokamenni

their aMs.

are supplied with

cotton stuffs, khalats, biaz, printed cottons, dried fruit,

These goods

&c.

the merchants

with great profit for sheep.

Russian

brought hither by Tartars, who find a inferior articles

more

civilized

thus

sell

leather,

&c.

exchange goods

sale

which they cannot dispose of

are

for the in the

parts of the Russian empire.

They

nankeen,

calico,

cheap

cotton

prints,

ironware, small looking-glasses, ear-rings,

Metallic productions and leather are in very

great demand.

Oxen, sheep,

are procured in exchange.

chants

fox,

The

and marten skins

profits of the

mer-

are very great, as a yard of red cloth worth

about three shillings

is

exchanged

for three sheep

— ;

2 84

Travels in Central Asia.

a hide of " yufta " for seven and eight sheep

and iron wares are sold

cast-iron prices.

camping

The

grounds

;

while

at

still

higher

of

the

Kara-

Kirghizes are besides yearly visited by Chinese from Kuldja, under pretence of verifying the boundaries,

and supply the Horde with silks, at

tea, rice, tobacco,

moderate rates; or in exchange for sheep.

Coloured

obtained

are

silks

from

Kokan and

Tashkend, though in small quantities, and

Manaps and

for the rich

As ghizes,

mentioned,

already

who

are

and

Kara-Kir-

those

Kokan, pay a yearly

subject to

This tribute

is

called a

consists of the following imposts, viz.

The Tunluk-Ziaket,

smoke

or

sheep from each tent.

fifty,

cording to circimistances. agricultural products

Besides

;

tax,

amounting

to a

Koi-Ziaket, or sheep tax

one sheep out of every

barn.

chiefly

their Avives.

tribute to that Khanat. Ziaket,

and

or twenty, ac-

forty,

Harazela, an impost on

one sheep from each corn-

these

taxes,

Dikokamenni

the

Kirghizes contribute three sheep from each tent

wards the maintenance of troops.

The

to-

Sultys and

a portion of the Sary-Baguiches annually supply the

Kokanian troops with 5500 puds four quarters

—

of wheat

and

millet.

—about They

forty-

are also

obliged to entertain the Ziaketches (tax-gatherers),

Organized Marauding of the Bikokamenni. 385

who make

their circuits in large parties,

own

It is certain

cost.

at their

that the pressure of these

taxes does not produce continual disturbances, only

because the Kokanians profess the same creed as the

Kara-Kirghizes.

Dikokamenni pay

In those parts where the

tribute to China, they stand in

quite different relations to the predominating population,

with

whom

by

emplified

they are constantly at war, as ex-

their driving

away the

cattle of the

Chinese as well as those of the Kalmyks.

The Dikokamenni cattle stealing,

are in fact

more addicted

than any of the other Kirghiz

to

tribes,

and

their " Barantas " or

marauding expeditions

are

by no means conducted

in that chivalrous spirit

that characterizes those undertaken by the Kir-

ghizes

of

Hordes subject

the

The

Russia.

to

Barantas of the Kara-Kirghizes are organized on a military plan, but with the

avowed object of rob-

bing some neighbour both of his property. auls of

a

The

feud, are,

great bloodshed.

between in

there

is

whom

there

exists

particular, attended with

However, the

wandering mountaineers lifting

as well as his

attacks of the Sary-Baguiche on the

the Bogus,

deadly

life

is

valour

of

the

mostly limited to cattle

and pursuing a flying enemy

;

as soon as

a prospect of a fair stand-up encounter, aKir-

286

Travels in Central Asia.

ghiz, after galloping half a mile

engaging him.

after his foe, will

and retreat without

discreetly turn his horse's head,

In their relations with the Russian

Kirghizes of the Great Horde, the Dikokamenni exhibit the darker side of their character

;

prowling

across the mountains in small parties, they steal

by two or three head

the cattle of their neighbours, at a time.

down

The Russian Kirghizes

mercilessly hunt

these petty thieves. Thus, Suranchi, a Kirghiz-

Batyr, or warrior- chief,

whom

I

knew, was in the

habit of sending out his " Djigits " nightly in the

summer

to intercept these plunderers in the

tains with their booty.

bound

caught, they were

and only regained

in fetters,

when ransomed by occasion offered

When

their liberty

Suranchi on one

their tribe.

me

moim-

one of these prisoners as a

present.

The unhappy wretch was brought

ward with

his

his

neck

;

at

my

to understand slaves,

hands tied and

that the Russians all to live in

thank him, dog,"

he struck the Dikokamenni, silent,

heavy chain round

request he was liberated and

but wished

"Kulduk,

a

for-

made

did not require

freedom and amity. said

Suranchi,

as

who had remained

on the head with his whip.

Nevertheless

these unfriendly relations do not prevent the Riissian Kirghizes from intermarrying with the Dikoka-

Gross Ignorance of the Hordes.

menni, and during

my

stay, while the tribes

open variance, many

at

visited the auls of the

287

our

of

own

were

Kirghizes

Dikokamenni with the object

of seeing their brides, cousins, &c<

The

same low In justice

level as their social state of

they must be

nature, in the

AH

Buruts

spiritual condition of the

their

viewed

on the

is

development. children of

as

most mournful sense of the term.

conceptions and ideas of morality are

founded upon the rudest

beliefs

and prejudices.

Before the arrival of the Russians at Lake Issyk-Kul, the only sources of learning in the

Horde were

wandering Tashkendians who taught the children to spell

through the

first

without explaining

its

chapter of the Koran,

meaning.

but

Since the appear-

ance of the Russian Tartars the number of those

who

can read and write has somewhat increased,

and the want of education felt,

so

much

so that

ghizes, not having

is

beginning to be more

many Dikokamenni

the means of instruction

Kir-

among

themselves, send their children to their friends in

the Great Horde, in whose

aiils

almost always to be found. there

is

who can Manaps

Tartar teachers are

But even

hardly one Kara-Kirghiz

at present

among a thousand

read and write, and the majority of their are as ignorant as the

mass of the people

288

Travels in Central Aniri.

themselves.

I

was myself a witness

astonishment of one Manap,

own

a document bearing his

affixing

thought that

little

of paper, his

piece

enemy had made him confirm

own

which he had

seal, in

to this

seal

his

amusing

when he was shown

confessed to a "Baranta;" he in

to the

a deposition of his

guilt.

The

religion

Islamism

Mahomedanism,

their

;

Dikokamenni Kirghizes

of the

very superficial, particularly jacent to

however,

among

prophet

know

the

Drunkenness, which

!

by the Koran,

is

are not

names

alone unacquainted with the ninety-nine Allah, but do not even

name

is strictly

not regarded as a

of

of their

forbidden

sin

by the

Dikokamennis.

Mende, a venerable Manap

threescore years,

after drinking

of

is

the tribes ad-

Some Kara-Kirghizes

China.

is

of

about two quarts

brandy during the day, boasted that he could

gallop any distance in the evening without losing

In

his saddle. late

many

the prescribed

rules

ignorance.

Strangely

Shamanism

are

still

other things they openly vioof the

enough, retained

Koran through

some customs

by the people.

of

Ac-

cording to Mr. Bardashef, the Kara-Kirghizes worship

fire,

and celebrate this

of Thursday.

Grease

is

religious rite

on the night

thrown over the flames.

289

J^enernlioH for the Departed.

round which nine lamps also read if a literate

person be present,

which the worshippers remain

The Kara-Kirghizes

Prayers are

are placed.

during

prostrate.

likewise reverence the

maining monuments of an ancient race which merly inhabited the is

country.

refor-

Near Tokmak there

a high brick column held in great veneration, in

which, according to popular tradition, a certain built

up

his daughter

preserve her

The

after

highly reverenced.

own

of their ancestors

the remains

appurtenance belonging to the dead a crime.

!

are generally surrounded

To remove

walls.

insects

people are yet more

The tombs

and they

are held sacred,

by stone

her death, in order to

body from venomous

old relics of their

Khan

is

or any

considered

games, or Baigas, as among the

Public

other Kirghizes, are instituted in conraiemoration of

deceased persons, and these sports are celebrated on a the departed had been wealthy and

larger scale,

if

powerful.

Races, however, constitute

attraction of these

are poorer than

other Kirghiz tribes,

given away are

not so

nines, or

81 head of

casionally, fall

chief

As the Dikokamenni

Baigas.

Middle and Great Hordes.

the

valuable as

There, as

cattle,

to the winner.

the

prizes

those

of the

many

as nine

and even

slaves oc-

Although the prizes u

~yO

Travels

ill

Central Asia.

of the Buruts, on such occasions, consist of male

profuse

awarding

in

practised

and female

at

form of amusement

mouth out as

Wrestling

a

coarser

with the

coin

of a vessel filled with sour milk.

This,

usual with a rude, ignorant population,

is

also

is

and another

;

seize

to

is

they are not so

slaves,

cattle.

these Baigas

likewise usually

favourite game,

and

use of the hands

is

excites great

the

is

The

amusement.

not allowed, and the dexterity

of the venturesome Kirghiz

must be confined to

his

His exertions to catch the coin are some-

mouth.

times so severe, that blood flows from the nose and ears

by

;

at this stage the place of the player is taken

another

thirsty

Kirghiz,

avaricious

for

the

money. In 18G0, a Sara-Bap;uiche poet or rhapsodist was

attached

to

the

Russian

lie every evening attracted

ing admirers, songs.

creating

Khan

—

who greedily

round him

a

crowd of gap-

listened to his stories and

His imagination was remarkably feats

for

his

hero

—the

and took most daring

regions of marvel.

The

greater

fertile in

son

flights

of

some

into

the

part of his rap-

turous recitation Avas improvised by ceeded, the

column.

expeditionary

him

as

he pro-

subject alone being borrowed usually

from some tradition.

His wonderfully correct

in-

Imaginatki' Strain of their Iviprorisatori. 391

tonation,

which enabled every one who even did

not understand the words, to guess their meaning,

and the pathos and to his strain,

fire

which he

showed that he was

skilfully

imparted

justly entitled to

the admiration of the Kirghizes as their chief bard.

AVhen the

chief of the

expedition gave an enter-

tainment to the Kirghizes on the Kutemaldy, this poet loudly and eloquently extolled the virtues of the giver of the feast

—probably

with a view to a

noble largesse, while his fellow countrymen seemed to appreciate the song of their as the pillau that they

to do

them

cellent

justice,

bard

fully as

much

had been treated with, though

they brought to the latter an ex-

and by no means

fastidious appetite.

u 2

—

CHAPTER

VIII.

History of the Establishment of Russian Rule ON THE Sea of Aral and on the River Syr-

Daria (Jaxartes) from 1847 to 1S62.

General Review of the Future

Importance. —

Russians

in

Orenburg Region and First

these Parts.

the Sgr-TJaria.

—Establishment

in the Steppe since 1833.^

the Steppe

—The

and on

Aral

Appearance of

— The Sea

its

the

of Aral and

of Russian Ride

Erection of Forts in

the Shores of the

Sea of Aral.

Flotilla.

1S47— 1852. In an administrative sense,

there

is

comprehended

under the Orenburg region a vast extent of country, roarhing on the North to the river

Kama, on

the

293

Territory under Cona'i deration.

West

to the Volga,

on the South to the Caspian and

Aral Seas and river Syr-Daria, and on the East to the Sary-Su river and Ulu-Tau mountains.

Besides

the governments of Orenburg and Samara, and the

lands of the Orenburg and Ural Cossacks, this region contains within itself extensive Steppes, occu-

pied by roaming Kirghizes. thinness of

its

Notwithstanding the

population, and the barren and desert

Steppes, which separate the commercial points on

the Caspian from the

fertile oases that

occur along

the course of the rivers Syr and Amu-Darias, and, of the

in spite

difficulty

communication be-

of

tween the Eastern provinces

of Russia

countries of Central Asia, this region

And

importance to Russia. condition

is

although

is

its

and the of great

present

capable of great improvement, there

is

not the slightest doubt but that a brilliant future awaits

it

—

that

it

will

become the great highway

of trade between Central Asia

and Western Europe,

and that Russian productions exchanged

A

in its

detailed

markets

and

will

eventually be

for Asiatic goods.

systematic

account

of

the

gradual advance of Russia in this region, and of her relations with Central Asia, will be subsequently

presented to the reader. to

make him

For the present,

familiar with the

in order

more recent events

294

Trareh

in

on the Syr-Daria, we

Central Jsia.

shall confine ourselves to a

sketch of the progress of Russia here during the last fifteen years, alluding

but

briefly to the occur-

rences prior to that period.

The spread

beyond the Volga and

of Russia

Ural commenced in the sixteenth century, with the fall

of the kingdoKL of

Kazan and Astrakhan.

But

neither the intenral condition of Russia, nor the political

circumstances

any significance to

this

the

of

imparted

period,

movement Eastward.

On

the accession of Mikhail Fedorovitch to the throne, the

Don

Cossacks,

who had

settled in the sixteenth

century on the Yaika, or river Ural, swore fealty

Tsardom

to the

of

Moscow, and the advance

Russia on the East commences from this In

1

region

of

river.

574, the original inhabitants of the Orenburg

—the

Bashkirs,

voluntarily

the construction of a Russian

town

petitioned

for

in their country.

With the foundation of Ufa, 49" 40' N., 50° 20' E, Samara, 49° 30 N. 58 E, and other towns, Bashkiria

became permanently attached

to Russia,

and

all

the

insurrections that took place after that period ter-

minated with a cruel punishment of the rebellious Bashkirs.

Peter the Great was the

first

Russian Sovereign

who, with characteristic penetration, perceived the

Rise of the Omsk Department.

importance and

significance

Trans-Volga region.

for

he thus expressed himself on

Russia of

when

In 1722,

this

295

in Astrakhan,

subject

:— " Al-

though these Kirghizes are a roaming and people, their Steppe

is

the

the key and gates to

fickle all

the

countries of Central Asia."

Five years after the death of Peter the

Abdul-Hair,

Khan

Great,

of the smaller Kirghiz Horde,

oppressed by the Dzungarians and harassed by the Bashkirs and Kalmyks, sought the

protection of

Russia, and swore allegiance to the Empress in

1732.

volve practical results,

it

was necessary

much

the Russian military boundary

wards. the

first

Anne

In order that his subjection should in-

remove

to

farther south-

In this manner, owing to the exertions of

Russian governors of the region

— the

Tatischef and Nepluyef

up

Uralsk, between which,

towns of

—

Kirilov,

Omsk and

to 1730, there existed

only the one small town of Sakmarek, became con-

nected together by a line of settlements along the shores of the rivers Ural and Uya.

Dating from

constant rebellions of the

this period, neither the

Bashkirs, the inroads of the Kirghizes, nor even the insurrection of Pugachef, could

of Russia in this region

;

weaken the power

and a hundred years

after

the submission of the Kirghizes and Karakalpaks,

Traoch

29fi

Jma.

in Ci'ntrnl

Russia had established herself firmly on the Sea of Aral and along the lower

Daria

;

branches of the Syr-

respecting which latter occupation

particulars

must here be

a few

given.

The Greeks, speaking

of the Jaxartes

and Oxus,

unanimously and positively assert that both these rivers

disembogued into the Caspian.

From

this

has been entertained, that the Sea of

an opinion

Aral formed, in ancient times, a part of the Caspian.

Mmnboldt, however, does not admit

this,

and

holds,

in spite of the recent formations of the Ust-Urt, (the

isthmus between the two

the connection

seas), that

The

could never have existed.

allusions to the

first

existence of the Sea of Aral, are

made by Em-opean The Russians,

travellers in the sixteenth century.

however, had long the

"

Blue"

the river

sea, as

l)eeii

aware of the existence of

they called

Syr discharged

itself

it,

and into which

on the East,* but

having no close intercourse with Western Europe, they could not coninuniicate their knowledge.

It

was only with the subjection of the Kirghiz Steppes, after

1840, that reliable accounts were received

re-

specting the Sea of Aral, which covers an area of

about 23,000 s(juarc ^ From the "Book Doomsday Book.

geographical

miles.

Eroni

of the Bolcluigo Cherteja,'' a kind of Russian

Features of the Sea of Aral.

297

the large body of water discharged into

Amu-Daria (Oxus) and Syr-Daria lake,

although brackish,

The

of the ocean.

small

sturgeons,

herring.

Seals,

is

dog-fish,

are found in

carp,

are

in the Cas-

There are no shoals

and they only occur near

the sandy and depressed coasts.

and troubled

wind freshens suddenly,

it,

and a peculiar

which are very common

pian, do not exist in the Aral.

to the stc=rmy

(Jaxartes), the

not so salt as the waters

fish that

in the centre of the sea,

by the

it

This sea belongs

The

class of waters.

raising

leaving, on subsiding, a heavy

high waves, and

swell,

which renders

Even winds, blowing continu-

tacking impossible.

ously for several days, are extremely rare

;

there

is

either a complete lull in the atmosphere, or heavy

winds, and frequently severe

gales.

The

vessels

best suited for navigating this sea are iron steamers

drawing

little

water

protected from

all

;

and good anchorage grounds,

winds, hardly

exist.

The

shores

of the sea present the appearance of a desert.

In

summer, with the exception of some parts on the South- West and South, they are altogether uninhabited.

In winter, Kirghiz encampments

occur

along the Northern and Eastern shores, as also on the adjoining islands.

The Northern

coast

and sandy, and being very sinuous, forms

is

low

many

298 baj's,

Travels in Central Asia.

peninsulas,

The

and capes.

" Bolchie" and

Malie Barksuki sands abut on this part of the

The Western shore

bordered by the precipitous

is

sides of the Ust-Urt plateau.

and

The Southern

is

down by

the Amu-Daria, and of sand

thrown up by the wa\es. jacent to Avhich are the

depressed,

general,

low,

mud

consists of reeds, Avhich cover the drift

brought

sea.

The Eastern Kyzyl-kum

sandy,

shore, ad-

sands,

in

is,

and overgrown with

bushes and reeds.

The Syr-Daria in

the

takes

its

source in several streams

snowy Belur-Tag (Bolor-Dagh mountain

authorities)

Western confines

range,

of Indian

extending

on

the

of Chinese Turkestan.

The sources of geographical information

respect-

ing the river Syr-Darya, are exclusively Russian.

Almost tury in

to the

commencement

we had no

Russia,

we

the

cen-

certain accounts of the river, while find

Bolcha^o-Cherfcja, tions of

of the present

already in the sufficiently

Book

accurate

" Blue" or Aral Sea, the

sands, the rivers

of the descrip-

Kara-Kum

Syr-Daria and Sary-Su, and of

the Kara-tail mountains, and since the extension of the protection of Prussia to the

Karakalpaks

in

1732, our knowledge of this region has gradually increased.

299

Physical Features of the Syr-Baria.

The River pursues tion,

its

Syr, after passing the Kara-tau range,

course

first

in a North-Westerly direc-

and then Westerly

to the Sea of Aral,

number

vides into a considerable irrigating

canals,

without receiving into

the Kara-Uziak branch,

(bad

is

called the

probably on account of

river),

tortuous along that part of

deep and rapid

broad,

breadth nions,

is

not uniform.

by the

fathoms

;

as

its

fathoms broad.

is

a

Djaman-Daria its

being very

course,

and not so Its

In the Kokanian domi-

evidence of natives,

it

and

itself

other parts.

at

di-

source to

its

attains

it

in Russian territory, both above

Kara-Uziak,

is

of branches

Part of the Syr, from

single rivulet.

and

400

and below

from 50 to 100, and even 250 In the Djaman-Daria,

hovi^ever, it

considerably smaller than at other parts, not ex-

ceeding in some places 30 fathoms. tion of the river tovi^ards its in the Djaman-Daria,

compensated

the

servations

to the un-

body of water which

main bed

branches, expansions, and

into

is

innumerable

irrigation canals.

made by Captain

contrac-

mouth, and particularly

must be attributed

loss of a large

from

diverted

The

The ob-

Ivaschinsov show that

the current of this river is unequal at different parts

and

at different periods of the

summer,

year and day.

at full water, the flow

In

above Kara-Uziak

300

Travels

in

Central Asia.

from two and a half to four knots

is

Djaman-Daxia from one

;

in

the

and below Kara-

to two,

Uziak from one and a quarter to two and a half knots, increasing in rapidity at the bends to three

and even

when

During the autumnal season,

five knots.

there

water in the

is less

considerably slower.

It

the current

river,

is

was besides remarked dur-

ing the expedition of 1853, at the landing place of Port Aralsk, 46°2' N., 61° 60' E., that the current

changed during the day. the

morning

at

Tt flows

more rapidly

about ten or eleven o'clock, becom-

ing weaker at about two in the afternoon, and

wards evening pidity.

current, is

and

sometimes attains

water,

Its

its

for use,

is

It

also

varies.

this

to

matinal rarapidity

quickly clears, however,

perfectly sweet,

not only for natives,

The depth

owing

its

to-

of

flowing over a sandy-mud bottom,

always turbid.

drawn

in

and

but likewise

of the river, like

Generally

its

is

when

salubrious,

for travellers.

width and current,

speaking, the

Syr-Daria

flows through a deep and steep-banked hollow, the

depth at about one fathom from the shore being above a man's height, and then progressing from one fathom to five

and

six fathoms.

occasionally occur in

Djaman-Daria, and

During low water, shoals

some

at the

parts, particularly in the

mouths

of the Syr.

—

Branches of the 8yr-J)aria,

The Syr-Daria abounds

301

witli excellent fish.

Stur-

geons, dog-fish, carp, bull-heads, {cottus*), sudaks,

(somewhat resembling the perch-pike, or sandre),

rudd

pike, fish

&c.,

[erytJirophalmus],

caught in

it.

among

are

The appliances

the

of the Kir-

ghizes for catching fish are very rude

while the

;

Com-

Russians, with the exception of the Fishery

pany of the Sea of Aral, whose operations sometimes extend to the

aim

at

The

mouth

supplying their folld;wing

occasional wants.

arms and lakes occur on the right

bank of the Syr-Daria I.

own

of the Syr-Daria, only

:

The Ber-Kazan arm,

diverges from the Syr,

is

at the point

where

it

twenty fathoms wide, and

one and a half fathoms deep,

and continues

its

course in a series of polders or expansions, which

have local names, and are mostly overgrown with reeds.

This branch finally disappears in the Kara-

Uziak marshes,

after a course

extending over about

-thirty-five miles. II.

The Kara-Uziak branch has no regular bed,

but consists of a labyrinth of lakes and

fens, inter-

spersed with sheets of clear water, fringed with reeds,

and extends from Fort Perovski

to Fort

one hundred versts in length, and from thirty versts in breadth. Its channel

is

No.

interrupted

* Gottus Gobio,—w Miller's Thuml).

2,

fifteen to

by

302

Travels iv Central Asia.

morasses

and

two

at

distinct points

at another for ten

versts

The Kazala arm

forty,

of this river

is

taste.

where

has,

one for

and, owing to this

though of a marshy

perfectly clear,

ofi",

at

mouth

peculiarity, the water at the

III.

;

—

strikes

it first

a well-defined bed, about twenty fathoms wide,

with a depth of two fathoms, and a slight current. Further on,

its

energy becomes expended in reedy

and aqueducts, so

fens

cannot be traced, and

that, like the Rhine, its

bed

reaches Tal-Bugut as an

it

insignificant canal, bearing

name

already another

!

At the lower course of the Kazala the Ak-Gerik valley spreads in it

At times

a Northerly direction.

becomes flooded, forming, then,

either

one large

Aman-Utkul

the right

lake or a series of small lagoons.

IV.

bank

From Tal-Buguta

to

of the Syr forms a depressed valley,

the greater part of which

is

by

overgrown with

far

reeds,

while in the Northern part are formed the lakes

Rami, Djalangatch, Koiazdy, and Kamyshlybash,

which have no springs of

by

canals

fact,

their

own, but are fed

conducted from the Syr, and

are,

nothing more than inundations over a

marshy

valley

brackish,

freshed

;

the water in

them

is

and becomes decomposed,

by the flowing stream

in

saline,

consequently if

of the Syr.

not

le-

—

Branches of the Si/r-Baria.

The following branches and bank of the Syr-Daria

left

The

I.

Yany-Daria, or

New

lakes occur on the

:

Djany-Daria

river

303

River)

is

Tartar

(in

dialect

a Southern branch

of the Syr, disemboguing in the S.E. part of the

Sea

of

According to the Kirghiz,

Aral.

branch was formed in the end of the-

when

the

Kara-Kalpaks,

Little Kirghiz-Kaisak

driven

this

last century,

away by the

Horde from the lower course

of the Syr, were forced to migrate elsewhere.

portion river,

A

Kara-Kalpaks advanced up the

of the

and occupied

the

lands

adjacent

the

to

present embouchure of the Djany-Daria, and be-

taking themselves to agriculture, excavated a large canal,

which ultimately formed a branch of the

The Kokanians,

river Syr.

Akmechet

dammed up

fort,

after the

erection

of

the Djany-Daria, in

order to deprive the Kirghizes and Kara-Kalpaks,

who had

fled

from their oppression to the lower

course of the river, under the protection of the

Khivans,

all

possibility

and of pursuing

agriculture,

of

by these means

to settle

of

and

subsisting to induce

around Ak-Mechet.

there

them This

compulsory measure displeased the Khivans, and they repeatedly endeavoured to induce the to

Khan

demolish the dam, but their intercession was

not attended with success.

304

Travels in Central Asia.

The Kar-Bugut dam was constructed by the

II.

Kokanians two versts below the point of issue of the Djany-Daria into the Syr, near the

of Fort

branch

this

not more than six fathoms.

is

pressure of the water often in

ruins

Sandyk- Kurgan, where the breadth of

consequence of

The

destroyed the dam,

which the Kokanians made

several attempts to arrest the course of the river at points

higher up in

sure

the

of

its

course,

water would be

where the

pres-

strong.

In

less

October, 1853, the old Kokanian dam, near the ruins

Sandyk-Kurgan, which had been de-

of

molished by the Kirghiz repaired

Bukhar-bai, was

chief,

by the Russians, with

the

object

of

raising the general level of the Syr-Daria, so

as

to enable steamers to navigate ever,

was

ere long once

it

;

the dam, how-

more destroyed by the

pressure of the water. III.

The

river

Kuvan-Daria flows

South-

first

wards, then bends to the West, and, dividing into three branches, forms a lagoon, which

with reeds. versts

is

is

covered

This river over a course of

fifty-five

sufficiently deep,

thirty fathoms

three knots reeds,

and

;

with a width of about

and a current running from one

its

to

banks are low and bordered with

in parts

with good

meadow

grass.

The

Branches of the Syr-Daria.

formed by the branches of the Kuvan-

lagoon

W.

Daria extends from E. to

and twenty from

its

seventy versts,

for

At a

versts in width.

left

short distance

border, at eighty versts from what

was formerly Fort No. deserted Khivan

fort,

are the ruins

3,

of the

Khodjanias.

The now dried-up Daria-lyk branch, which

IV.

one

at

305

connected

time

Djaman-Daria,

more

was

Kuvan with

the

than

the

versts

1.20

in

length.

The Bish-Aram branch

V.

Syr at

Utch-Urga settlement,

at first

to the

off

S.

from the Syr,

of which the

it

and

Soon

the

direct

after the

branching

and

extends altogether over

waters are sweet.

VI. The Kara-Aryk canal,

forms

course bearing

loses itself in reeds,

Its course its

its

out of the

separates into several streams,

Bish-Aram

forms marshes. fifty versts,

W.

flows

fifty versts

connecting

link

Syr-Daria with the Sea of Aral.

of

in length,

the

river

In the lower

course of the Syr such canals are very numerous, and' are modestly termed aryhs or ditches

by the

natives.

VII.

From Talbugut

to

Aman-Utkul, the

left

bank

of the Syr, like the right, presents a depres-

sion,

which

is

flooded and overgown with reeds,

X

306

Travels

and bears the name

Central Asia.

in

of

Kara-Kul Lake.

measured along the course of the

by

versts, S. E.

part,

forms an

it

At

is

its

and rather large

open

(Kara-Su) bay, whose depth

river, is fifteen

in width.

to nine versts

six

Its length,

as

much

as seven

fathoms.

VIII. Near the Aman-Ulkul ferry, are the two

Sary-Kul lakes, whose

areas

respective

do

not

exceed one verst square.

The character

of the ground around the basin of

the lower course of the Syr-Daria, depends on the

degree

in

which

it

is

affected

by the

waters.

Thus, wherever the banks of the river or its branches are very low, either lagoons completely overgrown

with thick and high reeds, or are

The

formed.

alluvial

soil

else ordinary marshes,

consists

mostly

of

an

mud.

The Ber-Kogan,Kara-Uziak, and Kazala branches, the upper courses of the Djany and

between what was known

as Fort

Kuvan

No.

3,

Darias,

and that

of

Hodjanias, the Bish-Aram and Utlyaii branches, as

well as the

Aman-Utkul,

Syr-Daria between Tal-Bugut and

are

all

bordered on both banks by

extensive marshes.

Where

the banks are not very depressed, and

therefore only occasionally submerged, thus becom-

J^cffrtatioji

iiig

along

flic

Banks of

307

the Sj/r.

enriched with alluvial mud, there frequently

meadow

occur very valuable frequently

flats

of varying

Syr and

its

particular,

but more

covered with small reeds

mixed with meadow belts

patches,

inter-

Such spots occur

grasses.

in

width along the banks of the

branches

the banks of the former in

;

above the Djaman, and those of the

Djany and Kuvan-Daria being almost exclusively bordered by this description of vegetation.

On

these

meadow

lands,

description of bushes in

of the

Kirghiz

date-trees,

Steppe

addition

in

to

the

which the Southern part abounds,

—

willows,

and poplars are found growing.

wild

Wil-

low trees cover the greater part of the islands of the Syr, and date trees are

first

met with near

Kazala, at some points at and beyond Fort Perovski,

where they form whole woods. paratively rare,

and

is

The poplar

is

com-

only found between Fort

Perovski and Djiilek.

The form

parts which are not exposed to inundation, saline

Steppes,

on which

except bushes of wormwood,

djuzgun, chingil, thorn, and all

sands

and meadows.

lands,

and cultivated

The

fields

tamarisk,

saksaul,

many

of which are usually

plants,

other prickly

met with on the

marshes,

which

grows

nothing

meadow

closely adjoin the

X 2

308

Trarch

bank

right

ment

(Mitml Asia.

in

from Djiilek to the

of the Syr,

of Ak-Suat, are bordered

stretching northwards

ing

the

and form-

as far as Tu'rgaef,

Barren

so-called

by

settle-

sahne Steppes,

The space

Steppe.

between the rivers Syr and Kuvan, likewise conof saline Steppe.

sists chiefly

Cultivated fields

may

Steppe

as also in the saline

land

is

moistened and

it is

so long

itself,

conveniently situated for

by which

meadow-land,

exist in the

as the

artificial irrigation,

with loam,

fertilized

and experience here has revealed the very unexpected saline

Agriculture the

grows

even

below

;

and

along both

Mailibash,

3.

The

as

well

ground

!

Djiilek to the

banks as

of

this

around the

and the Russian

existing traces

testify that cultivation

in

pursued along

present actively

Hodjanias Fort,

Nos. 2 and

better

ordinary alluvial

bank of the Syr from

right

deserted

at

is

Djaman-Daria river

on

than

soil

corn

that

fact

forts

of aqueducts

was formerly an important

avocation in other parts, and especially along the right

shores of the

Kara-Uziak

lakes,

along the

upper course of the Djany and Kuvan Darias, &c. In addition to the tracts already described, considerable plains

of sand

part of the Syr.

The

are

largest

found

at the lower

of these form the

309

Aspect of the Barren Steppes.

Kara-Kum

sands,

versts in length,

which occupy an extent of 225

and from 130

200

to

versts in

the North by Lake

width, and are confined on

Chelkar, and the lower course of the Irgiz, which,

flowing from the Westward, debouches into that lake

on the West by a

;

saline Steppe,

on the South by the

of Aral

;

mouth

as far

up

Ak-Suat settlement

as

most part covered

found in

Not a

with friable

its

and on for

is

sands

and

with salines and

single river, or fresh lake

and drinkable water

it,

;

This region

hillocks, interspersed occasionally

saline hollows.

from

river Syr,

the East by a barren Steppe. the

and the Sea

is

is

only to be

obtained from wells {kuduks), which are generally

dug

in

the small hollows which are found in the

midst of friable sandy hillocks. these wells it

soon

is

The water

in

not always good, and as moreover

becomes

impure,

it

always

is

found

necessary to clear the well out before drawing a fresh-supply.

The vegetation on these

sands, though

rather better than that of the saline Steppes, generally poor, but

The nature

shrubwood

of the

soil

is

is

plentiful.

and the

scarcity of fuel

and pasturage, render the passage over the Kara-

kum

sands extremely

difficult,

and only

solitary

Kirghiz horsemen can travel from well to well in

all

•310

Central

'Dvirclx in

directions.

nomad

All the

.Is/a.

Kirghizes, as well as

Bokharian caravans and Russian transports, proceeding to Orenburg and the Orsk fortress and back,

Kara-kum by

cross the for ages

the only route which has

been frequented by Asiatics, and extends

from the former Aralsk

fortification, or

the point of

passage over the Syr, to the N.E. extremity of Sary-

Chaganak Bay, and thence along the Western edge of the sands to the

settlement.

Uralsk fort or to Mana-Aulie

This route

undeniably the best

is

in

every respect for connecting the lower part of the

Syr with the Russian

line

it

;

part through saline valleys,

runs for the most

and

crosses the sandy

ones in a few places, while wells exist at every stage in sufficient

numbers

for the

supply of considerable

caravans.

To

the

East of the Kara-kum sand stretches

a broad belt of waterless saline Steppe, called the

Barren Steppe, extending as

Lake Balkhash.

far as

It is

crossed, though with great

rian

and Tashkend caravans proceeding

kand and Petropavlovsk, and convoys pass through

way

it

in

difficulty,

since

by Bokato Troits-

1853 Russian

the autumn, on their

to Fort Perovski.

With regard that although

to the sands, their

it

vegetation

must be observed, is

scanty, they yet

Scarcity of Sweet Water.

311

present greater conveniences as camping-grounds

than the saline Steppes.

Sweet water

may

nearly

always be procured by digging wells, whereas the

Steppe

do

exist

water

almost entirely dry, and the wells which

is

them

in

of

is

bad

are either very deep, or their

Pasturage for horses

quality.

can also be obtained along the sands, whereas the

The

saline Steppes only contain food for camels.

and

hillocks

afford

the

mounds occurring

protection

to

winter hurricanes.

On

the

former

cattle

during

in

and

horses

these accounts

the

sands are preferred by the Kirghizes as campingground.

Ever since the commencement of

last

century

the Russians have laid themselves out to obtain

more

information

reliable

respecting the

lower

course of the Syr, or in other words, since

establishment of the Orenburg

and the

line,

the re-

Kirghiz-Kaisaks and Karakalpaks

ception of the

under Russian protection in 1730.

The course

of

the Syr was at that time occupied by Karakalpaks.

They had

much

their

did not exercise

power,

but were chiefly swayed by the

The

chief occupation of the Karakalpaks

Hodjas.

then, as now, horses,

own Khans, who

but

was

agriculture.

They had but few

like the patriarchs of old,

were rich in

312

Tnioels

In

Central

J.sia.

which they occasionally sold

cattle,

in the neigh-

bouring country, but principally to the Khivans.

for their own protection against the

Kirghizes,

they manufactured powder, lead, and guns, which

When

they also sold to the former.

towns surrounded by walls of

sought

shelter in

earth.

In the winter, they

chiefly

invaded, they

camped

in the reeds,

around the sea of Aral, which were likewise

resorted to at that season by Kirghizes of the Little

Being an agricultural and peaceable peo-

Horde. ple,

the Karakalpaks suiFered great oppression from

their neighbours the Kirghizes,

the protection

The

of other races against them.

Upper Karakalpaks

owned

and eagerly sought

in the

beginning of

last

allegiance to the Dzungars, and the

century

Lower

de-

termined to follow the example of the Little Kaisak

Horde, who through their Khan, Abul-Hair, had,

in

1732, intimated their desire to place themselves

imder the protection of Russia.

In

1732 the

Interpreter of the College of Foreign Affairs, Tevkelef,

who had been despatched

Murza

to receive the

oath of allegiance of the Kirghizes, arrived at the

camp

of Abul-Hair, at the

mouth

of the Syr.

Karakalpaks seizing this opportunity, swore to Russia, along with their

quence of

Khan

this, in the instructions

Kaip.

The fealty

In conse-

given to Karilof,

Commencement of

313

Hasisian lujluence.

despatched on the 18th May, 1734, to organize the Orenburg region, he

among

directed

is

other

things to forward a letter entrusted to him, to the

Khan

tablish a harbour

and armed

be accomplished

vessels in the Sea of

Imperial

letter,

new

1847 that

forts

mouth

was soon

As soon

and

The

region.

Bureau of Foreign

at the

owing

at that period,

settled state of the

to the un-

" gramota," or

after returned to the

Affairs,

vessels of

and

it

Rus-

was not

till

war were established

of the Syr.

as the relations of the

Russia were broken

and

to es-

Neither of these two things, however, could

Aral.

sian

and to endeavour

of the Karakalpaks,

Karakalpaks with

the former suffered long

off,

severely from the pillaging inroads of Abul-

Hair and his sons, who

from the Lower Syr,

some of them Bokharian

at last drove

at the

to settle

in

them away

same time compelhng Khivan and others

in

territory.

With the

retirement of

the

Karakalpaks,

the

lower course of the Syr remained entirely in the

Many

hands of the Kirghizes. agriculture,

and

settled

down

country, while others of the

of to

them took

to

the

cultivate

Horde emigrated

to

these parts every winter with their flocks, migrating to other

camping-grounds

in spring.

It is

said

314

Travels hi Central Asia.

and nomad popu-

that formerly both the stationary lations

were more niimerous

at the present day,

and that

of the rapacity

and cruelty

who

acquired an

Khivans,

in these regions

than

is

in consequence

of the

Kokanians and

it

unjust influence over

the lower course of the Syr about the commence-

ment

of the present century, that the whole country

has become depopulated to a considerable

account receives additional confirmation by

This the

extent.

many abandoned

neglected

meet the

fields,

dams and

ruined aqueducts, and that

reservoirs

everywhere

eye.

At the beginning

the present century, the

of

Kokanians had no fixed station on the Lower Syr,

and did not exercise any influence over the Kirghizes,

who wandered

along

its

banks, but after

the capture of the town of Turkestan in 1814,allLired

by the

possibility of extending the limits of their

territory

began

and

still

farther

to the

to interfere in the

to

demand

resisted the

afi'airs

North- West,

of the Kirghizes,

tribute from them.

demands

cessant inroads were

of

The Kirghizes

the Kokanians, and in-

made on each

other by the

rival peoples, resulting in great loss of life sides.

Worn

they

on both

out at last with this incessant struggle,

but without abandoning the idea of establishing

315

Intrigues of the Kokanians.

their

power over the Kirghizes, the Kokanians

re-

solved to occupy several points on the Syr below

and

Turkestan, at

erected

Djany-Kurgan,

successive

fortifications

Kumysh-

Djiilek-Ak-Mechet,

Kurgan, Chim-Kurgan, Kosh-Kurgan and

others.

The most important of these, Ak-Mechet, was built, according

Kirghiz

to

1817, on the

bank of the

left

about the year

accounts,

year after to the right bank.

and removed a

Syr,

The part

of the

Lower

Syr thus taken possession of by the Kokanians

formed an outlying or "frontier province of Kokan,

and was governed Mechet,

who was

until

1855 by the Beg of Ak-

subject to the ruler of Tashkend,

but who, taking advantage of the differences between

Tashkend and Kokan,

By

erecting

often acted irresponsibly.

Kokanians

fortifications the

these

The Kirghizes, accustomed

attained their object.

to repair to the convenient parts of the

passing

tribute ever,

and began

rule,

demanded

of

them

not satisfied with

harassed

them

in consequence

;

pay the Ziaket or

to

the Kokanians, how-

this,

still

at every turn.

began

to

plimdered and

Many

fires,

Kirghizes

go over to the Khivans,

but such migrations cost them dear. tween two

for

were forced to submit to

the winter,

Kokanian

Syr

Placed be-

the Kirghizes suffered from the

316

Travels in Ce/itrnl jjsia.

vengeance of both peoples, forcing

forts,

and others

many

of

them

under the Kokan and Khivan

to seek protection

to scatter in

all

directions over

the Steppe.

Influenced exclusively by rapacity, the Kokanians

by ruinous

signalized their rule

levies,

depredatory

inroads, robbery from the person, and violence of

every description. " "

The Kirghiz Tribute,"

says Mr. Osmolovski,

was collected by the Kokanians under

from

cattle

—Ziaket— and

In violation of

from

levy

^Mahometan

all

cattle

from

at

tvro

corn

laws

one-fortieth, the

—

heads

:

Ikhradj.

fixing the

Kokanians

took annually six sheep out of every kibitka or

and double that number from rich Kirghizes

tent,

and

made

this quite irrespective of the presents

;

to

the Ziaketchik (taxgather) and his assistants."

Of corn,

the Kokanians exacted a third of the crop.

Under the

" Ikhradj" head, they likewise collected

a tax in wood, charcoal and hay.

Each

was obliged

bags annually

of charcoal,

hay, and

to furnish twenty-four

four oxen

1000 sheaves

whose encampment fortifications,

cattle

paid

and corn.

lay

loads of of reeds. at

a

kibitka

saksaiil for fuel,

The Kirghizes,

distance

from the

the value of these imposts in

:

Oppressive Rule of the Kokanians.

In

addition

were

Kirghizes labour,

—much

In

1.

to

required

the

service

French corvee

Kokanian

man

purpose each kibitka sent a provided

him

with

in

—

gardens

repair the walls of the forts, &c.

fields, to

and

render

to

like the old

cultivating

and Ikhradj, the

Ziaket

the

317

and

For this

once a month,

food.

The

distant

Kirghizes paid in cattle for the hire of substitute labourers.

For cleansing the

2.

stables, stalls, &c.,in the forts,

which was done about for this

during the year

six times

work the Kirghizes, whose camps

were driven into the

forts at

;

lay near,

random.

In case of a war or inroad, each able-bodied

3.

Kirghiz, at the order of the Kokanians, was obliged to serve as long as required, providing his

own

horse and provisions.

The weight service

of these

was the more burthensome

eginiclies,

dissolute

violate the

life,

the

poor

who, leading an

also in opposition

and without giving the customary

kalym, or payment for a these

idle

often visited the Kirghiz aids, to

women, marrying them

to the Shariat,

By

to

or agriculturists, in consequence of the

brutality of the Kokanians,

and

and compulsory

imposts

wife.

barbarous means,

the

neighbouring

318

IVavels in Central jhi a.

country was held in fear and subjection by the of

Ak-Mechet up

ing that

its

to the year

1853

was

strength

material

;

fort

notwithstandreally

incon-

siderable.

In 1852 the force of Ak-Mechet only

fifty

sepahis, or

matchlocks,

sabres,

Kokan and

consisted of

soldiers,

armed with

and about 100

spears,

Bokharian and Kokanian traders were it

in

Kiunysh-Kurgan was garrisoned by twenty-

;

five

by

settled

men, principally Kirghizes, and Kosh- Kurgan In DjtUek, in

four.

1853, there were forty

men, and two or three Kokanian

soldiers in Djany-

Kurgan, a small quadrangular entrenchment of spear's height.

a

These numbers, of course, varied

according to circumstances, but they could only be increased by impressing Kii'ghizes.

Next

made

in order after the

their appearance

Syr-Daria.

Kokanians, the Khivans

on the lower course of the

Khiva commenced

to exercise

ence over the Kirghizes but very recently, since the reign of

1825.

in fact

Mahomed-Rahim, who died

The endeavours

establish their

influ-

of

the

Kokanians

power over the Kirghizes

to

of the Syr-

Daria, excited the curiosity of the Khivans,

demanded the demolition

in

who

of the forts on the Syr, to

which the former would not consent.

In conse-

4

Forfificationf! alone/ the Sf)\

qnence of the

left

this, several

bank

1830, in the

Khivan

of the river

reiQ;n

"^'A//

forts

were erected on

Knvan about

of Aha-Kiil (the son

/,

319

the year

and suc-

,>,~-^.1

TttREE iNirAniTiNTS OF Kttiya

cessor of

Mahomed-Rahim),

for the collection of

Ziaket from the neighbouring Kirghiz encampment,

and

of

dues

fronr

the

caravans

passing from

320

IVaveh

Bokhara

Orenburg

the

to

in Central ^/^ia.

and returning

line,

thence.

Like the Kokanian, the Khivan rule over the Kirghizes of the Syr-Daria ^yas marked by acts of rapine and oppression, which were often repeated

between the years 1840-50, out of revenge against Djan-Hodja, who destroyed Bish-Kaly.

The commencement the Steppe,

of the advance of Russia in

must be dated from iS33,

which

in

year the Novo-Alexandrovski, called subsequently

Mangyshlak Tort, 43°

40'

N. 53°

30' E.

on the Eastern shore of the Caspian, tion of the

Emba

Although two

fisheries against

forts,

was erected

for the protec-

Turkmen

pirates.

one on the Emba, the other on

the Ak-Bulak, were constructed in the Steppe in

1839, before the expedition to Khiva, they were only temporarily occupied, and were, in

fact,

aban-

doned on the termination of the campaign.

The

occupation of the Steppe, on

by the construction

menced

till

a

permanent footing

of regular forts,

was not com-

1847, when the Steppe was agitated

by the insurrection of Sultan Kanisara-Kassimof. It

was during

this year, that the

Orenburg Fort

on the Turgai, the Ural Fort on the ]

848 the Karabutak

built for protecting the

Steppe

forts

and the

Fort,

Trgiz,

and

in

on the Karabut, were

communication between the

line.

;

First Russimi Fort projected.

321

This advance of Russia in the Steppe, had the effect of pacifying the

adjoining the

line,

but exercised no influence over the Kirghizes,

who

districts

roamed beyond the Emba, on the Ust-Urt and SyrDaria.

In order to make the influence of Russia

by

felt

the Khanats of Central Asia, and for the protection

of the Kirghizes subject to Russia,

the

Syr-Daria, as also for the safety of Russian

caravans,

was necessary that she should predo-

it

minate without a the

who roamed on

mouth

on the Sea of Aral, and

rival

of the Syr,

Khivans had

at

where the Kokanians and

arbitrarily erected a line of forts,

with

the object of intimidating the Kirghizes, and impoverishing them by heavy exactions.

The

idea of

establishing a stronghold with a Russian settlement

on the Syr-Daria, originated

was not

as early as 1840,

but

realised until 1847.

In 1846, General Obruchev, then Governor-Gene ral of

Orenburg, obtained the sanction of his Go-

vernment, to occupy a point on the shore of the

Sea of Aral.

With

this view.

Captain Schultz was

despatched to select a convenient spot above the

mouth

of the Syr-Daria, for the erection of a fort

to gather information respecting the navigation fisheries of the river

;

to

and

sound the channel from Y

322

Travels in Central Asia.

the point at which fort to

the

mouth

it

was intended

of the river;

to construct a

and generally

to

on the capabilities of the coun-

prociu-e information

try for colonisation.

At the point

Raimsk

selected,

fortification,

changed

was founded

in 1847, the

which name was subsequently

to that of Aralsk.

The Khivans could not regard with

indifference

the encroachment of Russian rule on the Syr-Daria,

and from the year 1847,

hostile relations

between the two nations.

sprang up

In August, a force of

2000 Khivans having crossed the Syr-Daria, the Russian Kirghizes, and despoiled

thousand

families.

fear they

on

more than a

The troops despatched

the Khivans, put the marauders to

fell

flight,

against

and the

inspired spread as far as Khiva, where

the arrival of the detachment was expected; the

Russians, however, withdrew after

liberating

the

prisoners.

In the month of November, the Khivans appeared in the

Kara-Kum

desert,

pillaging the Kirghizes.

and again commenced

On

this

occasion, they

murdered many old men, seized the women,

scat-

tered the children in the Steppe, and robbed two

trading caravans.

Immediately on learning that

the Russian troops were in motion, the marauders

Hostilities with

tJic

323

IIushuiuk.

In 1S48,

once more retired beyond the Syr-Daria. a

body

of 1

500 Khivans had the temerity

to appear

on the right bank of the Syr, when they commenced their

work

of pillage, while three

men horsemen rode the Russian

fort,

hmidred Turk-

boldly past within gun-shot of

and

visited the Syr-Daria landing

For nearly twenty-foiu- hours they robbed

wharf.

and slaughtered the Kirghizes, the

crossed

Syr.

In the

after

course

which they of

re-

1848, the

Khivans made repeated inroads, but being each time compelled to

fly

on meeting the Russian de-

tachments, they became

conscious

of their

own

weakness, and limited themselves to demanding the destruction of the Russian forts of Aralsk and Novopetrbvsk.

From also

the

year

1850 a

hostile

attitude

assumed by the Kokanians, who,

as

was

alreadv

mentioned, having built forts on the louver course of the Syr-Daria, oppressed and robbed the Kirghizes subject

cursions

Mechet,

to

Russia.

Most

of the depredatory in-

were undertaken by the Beg

who

ruled over

the Lower Syr.

all

of

Ak-

the Kokanian forts on

These inroads were always accom-

panied with wholesale robbery; thus in 1850 they drove away twenty-six thousand head of Kirghiz cattle,

and

thirty

thousand on another

occasion.'- In

T 2

324

Travch

the following year,

in Central Asia.

the Kokaniaiis having

1851,

driven off seventy-five thousand head of cattle, the

commander

sued them and took their storm stop

but even

;

fort,

Kosh-Kurgan, by

severe lesson failed to put a

this

further, however, with the narrative, to glance at the

proceeding

Before

depredations.

their

to

Major Engmann, pur-

of Fort Aralsk,

it is

necessary

Russian proceedhigs on the Sea of

Aral.

The navigation vessels

of the Sea

commences with the

Two

fortification.

the " Mikhail," in

1847.

The

erection of the

two-masted

of war, the " Nikolai,"

Raimsk

one a vessel

vessels,

the other a merchant ship,

were constructed first

by Russian

of Aral

at

Orenburg

was intended

for

early

surveying

purposes, the second for establishing fisheries, with as already

men-

had been formed durmg the same

year.

\vhich object a public company, tioned,

Both

vessels

were taken to

having been constructed in Russia,

and transported

pieces,

in the spring

overland to Raimsk, where they were put together again

and launched.

immediately put to

sea,

The schooner

but owing to the lateness

of the season she only cruised off the of the Syr.

" Nikolai"

embouchure

In the following spring the schooner

again stood out to

sen,

and surveyed the whole

First Flotilla on the Sea of Aral.

Northern coast

325

In the meantime another

line.

war

vessel, the " Constantine," larger

was

built at Orenburg.

With

this

than the

first,

vessel. Lieute-

nant Butakov commenced, in the autumn of 1848, a

thoiough survey of the Sea of Aral, which occupied full

two years ere

it

was

satisfactorily completed.

In 1850, General Obruchev proposed to construct a steamer of forty-horse power, for the purpose of

The navigation

plying on the Syr-Daria.

of the

Syr-Daria promised to afford material assistance in

supplying the Raimsk

and

with the necessary stores

fort

from the Kokanian

provisions,

was intended to supersede the uncertain modes

project

and

tedious,

and

then in use for conveying

to the fort across

The

costly,

territory,

goods

the sandy and waterless Steppe.

received

the

approbation

of the

Government, and the Ministry of Marine were

The

directed to prepare plans of the steamer.

preliminary expenses under this head were defrayed

out of the tion year,

sum

assigned in 1838 for the organisa-

of a scientific expedition.

1837, the Asiatic

despatch a

scientific

made

it-

committee

decided

to

mission to the North-Eastern

shores of the Sea of Aral,

The events

In the previous

and up the Syr-Daria.

that occurred in Central Asia in

imperatively

1838

necessary to abandon this

—

.

32 G

Tracds

Central Asia.

in

project for the time.

A

the meantime to Khiva

;

military force

marched

in

and subsequently, with the

construction of the Orenburg, Uralsk,

and Aralsk

made

of the shores

forts,

topographical surveys were

of the Sea of Aral, and a complete examination of these waters, as well as of the lower course

mouths of the Syr-Daria, scientific objects of the

set

on

foot,

and

so that the

contemplated expedition of

In 37 were ultimately fully attained.

Captain

Butakov,

Imperial

of the

Navy, was

commisioned to order the steamer destined Sea of Aral,

for the

and a screw steam barge of twelve

horse-power, to act as a tender to the steamer, was contracted for at the Motala Iron for the

No

sum

General

Minister of 1

of 37,444 roubles (£5,620).

coal having been

coasts,

War

Would

layers

it

discovered along the Aral

Obruchev was requested by the to take into consideration

on the Mangyshlak peninsula, or between the ?

Should the coal prove of the requisite quality

for fuelling

across

steamers,

would the transport of

the Ust-Urt, by Kii'ghizes and

be attained with great obstacles 3.

:

not be useful to examine the coal

Caspian and the Sea of Aral 2.

Works in Sweden

As

a central depot

it

Turkmens

?

on the Western shore of

Orffanisation of

a Steam

327

Flotilla.

the sea, and armed convoys for the protection of the

coal

required

would

caravans,

carrying

in

manner could these

in

out

probability

all

the

difficulties

plan,

in

be

what

be subsequently

lessened ? 4. In case

no coal be found

vicinity of the Aral Sea, will

consider

ing

Don

to

the

the immediate

not be necessary to

and

the possibility anthracite

it

in

cost

mouth

of

transport-

of the

Syr-

Daria ? Perovski,

General

of

who was appointed Orenburg

in

military Governor-

1851,

though

fully

recognizing the advantages to be gained by the introduction of steam on the Aral, was of opinion

Don

that the transport of costly,

anthracite

would be too

available

fuel in those

and that the only

arenaceous wastes was the saxatd {Anabasis saxaill).

The

superiority of this plant as a substitute for coal,

over every other description of wood, was practically proved,

and

its

islands of the Aral

abundance on the shores and

was investigated and ascertained

by Captain Butakov. In June, 1851, Perovski instructed the commander of Fort Aralsk to

make

ments

during the navigation season

for forwarding,

the necessary arrange-

of that year, as large a supply as possible of the

saksaul to the Aralsk Fort.

Tracch

22.8

Central Asia.

in

The experiment, however, did not

succeed.

In

October of the same year, Perovski reported that the navigation of the steamers on the Sea of Aral

and Syr-Daria could not be rendered

and

seciu'e

saksatd for

and

of

make

tree ;

collection,

use

of

conversion

into

serious drawbacks.

hard and resinous properties of it

the

limited supply,

its

its

wood presented two

the

Firstly,

owing to the

Irrespective of

fuel.

difficulty

faggots of

saw

reliable,

sufficiently

this

almost proof against the hatchet or

and secondly,

its

crooked and knotty logs are

inconvenient for stowage, so that the progress of the steamer would always be retarded by having to

tow a

vessel loaded with this fuel, occupying space

disproportionate to

its

bidk,

and

insufficient for

any long passage. Anthracite

as

fuel,

therefore,

the great cost involved in the sole reliable

means

on

a secure footing.

might be used

as

conveyance, presented

of establishing steam navi-

gation on the Aral and it,

its

the rivers that

auxiliary

line, for

fall

into

Reeds and saxaid wood fuel.

sequently decided to transport the Orenburg

notwithstanding

Don

It

was con-

anthracite to

the consumption for

the

year 1852, and the cost of a pood of this material

would be one per ton.

rouble, twenty copecks, or about

£12

"

Armament of

the Flotilla.

329

In May, 1852, the steamers ordered in Sweden

were

forwarded

in

pieces

to

Petersburg,

St.

whence they reached Samara by water

in July,

and

were despatched with 4000 poods (65 tons) of anthracite to Orenburg,

August.

where the convoy arrived

In the beginning of November

land transports

all

in

the

arrived in safety at Fort Aialsk,

and the work of putting them together was immediately commenced.

On the

10th March, 1853,

the steamer " Perovski " was launched on the SyrDaria,

and the steam barge, " Obruchev," on the

16th April

The

following.

total

cost

of

the

steamers, including their conveyance to Fort Aralsk,

and the

salaries of those

employed in their

erection,

was 49,347 roubles sUver (£7,402.)

By

the 31st

and ready

ment

to

May

the steamers were completed,

commence

operations.

The arma-

of the "Perovski" consisted of a nine-inch

howitzer and carriage, on a revolving platform, at the bow, and two howitzers resembling carronades, at the

stern.

provision

The steam barge " Obruchev " had

made

for

mounting a howitzer

need, at each end, fore and

in case of

aft.

During the same year the steamer

" Perovski

took part in the Ak-Mechet expedition, 400 miles

from

its

mouth.

CHAPTER PART

IX.

II.

Survey of the 8yr-Baria above the Aral Fortification.

—Inimical

hearing

of

the

Kokanians.

Expedition of Colonel JBlaramherg.

of the Kokanian Fortifications.

Ak-Mechet. — Taking

—

—Demolition

—Expedition

of Ak-Mechet.—It

named Fort Perovski. — Proceedings of

the

to

re-

is

Koka-

nians. 1852-1854.

It has already been mentioned that General Perovski resolved in is 52 to take decisive measnres for

curbing the insolence of the Kokanians text for

—

a

pre-

which they themselves were not long

in

furnishing.

In the month of April, 1852, a survey corps,

—

.

Armed Survey

331

of the Syr in 1852.

consisting of eighty men, under the direction of

the topographer, Ensign Golov, was stopped before

reaching the fort of Ak-Mechet, the conunandant of which flatly opposed

its

further progress.

The

proposed junction of the Orenburg and Siberian having then been decided on, and

lines

from the Orenburg Syr being evident,

side

its feasibility

by a movement up the

was found indispensable to

it

it

even require armed

summer

of that year, a divi-

was organized, consisting

of one staff officer,

continue the survey, should force for its execution.

Accordingly, in the sion

eleven

sioned

superior officers,

officers,

and

musicians,

three

thirty-six

387

soldiers

troops,

irregular

9-pounders.

of

The command

following instructions

To accomplish

of the

Syr-Daria,

2.

and

who

was

received the

:

the survey through the valley

from the Aral

fortification

upon the

to

right

of the Syr.

In the event of an encounter with the Ko-

kanians, or in case they should for

the line,

of this division

the Kokanian fortress, Ak-Mechet,

bank

a band of

accompanied by two

intrusted to Colonel Blaramberg,

1

non-commis-

thirty-one

an " ouriadnik,"

make any

demands, to attack them immediately.

uncalled-

.

332 3.

Travels in Central Asia.

Without touching

at

any

fortifications lying

nearer to Aralsk, to proceed direct towards Ak-

Mechet, and there to act as circumstances might require.

If

limits, to

Ak-Mechet

lies

endeavour to rase

it

within the Russian

but under

;

cir-

all

cumstances to notify to the Kokanians that the fort

must not remain on

Taking with him a

month and

a half,

its

actual

site.

provisions

sufficient

to

last

Colonel Blaramberg, on the

3rd of July, issued from the Aralsk

fortification,

and was on the 18th already within one stage

Ak-Mechet

warned

marching twelve miles a day)

(thus

Meanwhile,

Kokanians,

the

of the

probably

of the water of the Syr-Daria into

and deluged the low

division

level

current

Lake Ber-kazan,

ground

in the vicinity

Regardless of this obstacle, the

crossed in safety, though with consider-

able difficulty, five arms of the river.

ammunition, and

on cane

fore-

advance of the Russian division

had destroyed the dam which diverted the

of Ak-Mechet.

of

rafts

;

greater portion

other stores,

The

guns,

were taken over

while the horses, camels, and the of

the men,

swam

over without

any resistance on the part of the enemy.

As soon

as this

was accomplished, two envoys

from Ak-Mechet appeared before the commander

Advance of the Expedition. of the division, of tribute

from

the

whom

one was a collector of

the

reason

and

Kirghizes,

Bokhara merchant, both of

know

why

333

whom

the division

other

the

a

requested to

had

violated

the Kokanian territory. Colonel Blaramberg, considering that the Ko-

kanian tax-gatherers had no

visit

the

country on that side of the Syr-Daria, and

dis-

right

to

approving alike of the constitution and tone of this

embassage, detained the tribute-collector with

his followers,

and despatched the Bokharian back

again, directing

Ak-Mechet

him

to inform the

that the Russian division

ing along the Russian bank of the

no

commandant

Kokanian troops

or

of

was marchon which

river,

could be

fortifications

permitted to remain.

The passage into

of the troops over the five channels

which the Syr branches

at this point,

had been

exceedingly tedious and exhausting, owing to the

inundation and the dense and prickly brushwood

through which the

men had

to

make

their

way

along narrow deep footpaths, as well as across the

ploughed and muddy

soil of

the

fields.

Reaching

the fortress at length on the 19th, Colonel Blaram-

berg encamped under the walls forming front.

its

Eastern

The Cossacks not having brought any canoes

;

334

Travels in Central jlsia.

along with

soon scattered themselves

tlie division,

along the Syr, and seized tvro Kokanian boats, near the right bank,

—

in

which the engineers

proceeded to reconnoitre the

once

at

fort.

The Kokanians abstained from showing themselves above the walls rian,

;

but ere long, the Bokha-

Kasan-Beg, again made

camp, with a

from the commandant of Ak-

Colonel Blaramberg would not take the

Mechet. letter,

letter

appearance in the

his

but ascertained from Kasan-Beg, that

it

con-

tained a request for a delay of four days, but some

Kirghizes this

who were

in

camp

alleged that he sought

respite in expectation of a strong reinforce-

ment.

Under these circumstances, an iuuuediate

sur-

render of the stronghold was not to be anticipated whilst at the same time

it

was impossible

to con-

tinue under the walls in the midst of an inundated

country, in the

by no means improbable event

On

the elevation of the water.

the

division

enough

of

the other hand, as

was not supphed with ladders long

to enable the

fortress could not

men

to scale the walls,

—

the

be taken by storm.

Unwilling, however, to abandon the scheme with-

out inflicting on the

which they justly

Kokanians the punishment

luerited

for

their

robberies.

Assault and Capture of the Suburbs.

Colonel Blaramberg determined, at least, to

335

bum

that lay between the outer wall and the citadel.

all

In the night of the 19th, some grenades from a

13-pounder were thrown

were

at

into

the

fort.

These

once responded to on the part of the Ko-

kanians from some 3-pounder swivel guns planted

on the bastions of the under cover of the

citadel,

walls.

and by musketry from

At dawn on the

20th,

the enemy's swivel guns had been dismounted, and

the

wooden gate

of the outer fortifications battered

Colonel Blaramberg

in.

handful of breach.

men in two

thereupon

formed his

columns, and led them to the

One of these columns, with the

aid of pick-

axes and hatchets, scrambled up the side of the

moat, and climbed the wall, whilst the other burst into the fortress through the broken gateway.

The

outer works of the fort were carried by the Russians in less than ten minutes. cess

Elated with this suc-

—

the troops with cheers rushed beneath the

But

their height,

which

was more than four fathoms, presented an

insur-

very walls of the citadel.

moimtable

barrier,

on them by shot, pered

clay, a

balls simply It

and no effect could be produced

as they presented a

fathom and a half

mass of untem-

thick, in

which the

imbedded themselves.

was now deemed

sufficient to

have gained the

336

Travels in Central Asia.

outer fortifications, and a retreat was accordingly

sounded.

The

and wounded,

killed

in the first case to fifteen, in the

seven

—were

carried

the walls of the fort

by

;

their

The

second to

fifty-

comrades from under

and a few volunteers remain-

ing in the fortification, set in them.

—amounting

was with-

fire to all that

conflagration lasted throughout the

whole night; and such of the Kokanians

as

de-

scended the walls of the citadel to rescue their property were instantly put to death.

On

the 21st, the division

commenced

gade movement down the course of the

its

river.

retro-

The

troops were frequently forced to wade, waist-deep,

through the water, so that the passage over the five

branches of the Bish-Aryn, occupied the whole

of the next twenty-four hours, during

all

which

the troops were in the water, while the heat never fell

below 86° Fahrenheit in the shade.

During

the return march, Colonel Blaramberg demolished three of the enemy's small forts

:

Kumysh-Kurgan,

Chin-Kurgan, and Kosh-Kurgan. This enterprise, achieved by a small division, at a distance of 500 versts (334 miles)

beyond the most

outlying Russian stronghold, and 1500 versts (1000 miles) from the line of settled frontier,

siderable importance

point of view.

in a military

is

and

of constrategic

337

First Resvlts of the Expedition.

In six weeks time, the division had traversed

more

than

(1000

versts),

difficulties

six

and

miles

fifty

successfully encountering

extreme

ground, and sustaining the most

of

relaxing heat

hundred

without boats or pontoons

;

it

succeeded in crossing three rivers and several rents, forts,

had demolished three

had tor-

of the enemy's small

and destroyed the outer works of Ak-Mechet

citadel, their principal frontier stronghold.

But besides

this,

the expedition decided a variety

of speculations as to the measures indispensable for

the

destruction

of

the Kokanian fortification on

the right bank of the Syr-Daria.

It

was

elicited

from inquiries on the subject, that there was considerable

meadow land above Ak-Mechet up

the

course of the Syr, and that the banks were fringed

with

a

dense forest

of timber,

fit

for building

purposes as well as probably for the construction of vessels.

The a

result

was that

view to the

it

was recognized

that,

vidth

permanent establishment of the

Russians on the Syr-Daria, for the protection of the

Russian Kirghizes against robbery and the daily increasing exactions of the Kokanians, and finally for the

main object of connecting the Orenburg and

Siberian lines,

it

was necessary to occupy in

force the z

338

TrarcJft in Central

tract

^l.vri.

between that river and the Kara-Uziak stream,

by which means navigation of the Syr-Daria would be made secure. The occupation of

this tract neces-

sarily involved the destruction of the

Kokanian

forts

along the right bank, and the safe navigation of our steamers demanded also that no fortifications should

be suffered anywhere, not even in the vicinity of the

left

bank.

The Kokanians had distinct

district,

that time organized a

at

on the tract lying between the

Kara-Uziak and Syr-Daria,

by small was

fortifications

—

of

—which was

which the Government

Without including

centred in Ak-Mechet.

Turkmen and Tashkendians, had always frequented at five

thousand huts

huts of Kirghizes after leaving the all

the Kirghizes,

who

and

aboiit three

thousand

wintered there,

regularly

Russian

who

were estimated

this district, ;

defended

territories.

These were

subjected to the heaviest exactions, not to speak

of Oriental robbery and spoliation.

In the following year, 1853, to

occupy Ak-Mechet

early in the

two

divisions,

and

artillery,

at

any

spring the troops oacli

it

cost,

Mas determined

—and

left

composed of

accordingly

the frontier in

infantry, cavalry,

and companies of sappers and miners,

taking with them twelve pieces of cannon.

The

Composition of Second hlrpcditioii.

force

numbered

and

sixty-eight

two

thousand

horses,

in

all

men

;i;39

two thousand one hundred including

four

hundred

two thousand and

besides

officers,

and

forty-two

thirty-eight camels, ami

two thousand two hundred and eighty oxen

for

transport of baggage and commissariat.

For crossing

rivers the detachments

were pro-

vided with three portable pontoons fixed on barrels,

two

flat

praams

in piece,

and three smaller pontoons

consisting of india-rubber

regular for

material

bags

a supply

;

besides whicli

was taken

of timber

forming bridges over the canals that would

present themselves on the route.

Both columns having become united Karabutakh,

they advanced

at

Fort

en echelon as far

iis

Fort Aralsk. In order to prevent the Khivans from attacking

and plundering the Russian convoys Perovski intended to occupy, by

way

stores,

of precaution,

the Khivan fort of Hodja-Nias

;

allowed to cross over to the

bank

left

of

but not being of the Syr,

he confined himself to ordering the Sultan rulers

roaming

at the

Western and middle portion of the

line of frontier, to retire with their followers into

the Steppe, and to sweep with their horsemen the

whole extent

of

country between

the

proposed

z 2

•340

Travels in Central A>Hid.

route of the Russian convoy, and the country to the South as far as the Ust-Urt.

To preserve

at

the same time the herbage for

the cavalry and waggon-horses, strict orders vrere

given that the

summer along

Kirghizes should not

camp during

the road leading from the frontier

line to Aralsk.

So punctually were these injunctions carried

out,

that according to Perovski's statement, the expedi-

tionary columns

Not a

single

marched

as

through a wilderness.

Kirghiz tent was to be seen even in

the most secluded valley, nor were horses or sheep

anywhere

Herds of wild " Saigaks" alone

visible.

enlivened the desert waste, which, commencing even at the Ilek,

presented nothing but saline marshes,

sands and oozy mud, overgrown with wormwood.

The weather was set in, the

thermometer

above 104° Fahren belonging to Aralsk,

From

at first mild,

:

rising

but the heats soon

by the end

One hundred and

the detachment that

showed symptoms of

of

nine

May men

first

reached

scorbutic

disease.

Fort Aralsk to the Syr-Daria lay the most

distressing portion of the route,

Kara-Kum

sands.

which crosses the

The heat here is very

oppressive,

the herbage scant, and the water, procured from small pits,

is

both of bad quality and insufficient in

Departure from Fort Aralsh.

The

quantity.

corps,

341

however, arrived safely at

Fort Aralsk in the middle of June, and instructions vpere issued that

it

remain there until

v^as to

the parts of the expedition

vi^ere finally

organized.

All the preparations having been at last pleted, the

expeditionary force

Aralsk, consisting in

400 Cossacks and escort of

of

all

three

to

besides

150 Cossacks, and 200 Cossacks artillery,

of

of infantry,

file

Bashkir cavalry,

the train, 10 pieces of field

com-

marched out

750

all

to

an

guard

varying from

twenty pounders, three mortars,

1140

camels, and no fewer than 777 waggons, besides ox-traias

and baggage

The steamer the expedition

;

horses.

" Perovski " likewise took part in

a

company

of infantry having been

placed on board of her at Aralsk. After transporting this additional

stores to

force,

Kosh-Kurgan,

proceed up stream as

On

together with some heavy its

far as

instructions were

to

Ak-Mechet.

the 23rd June the force reached the right

bank of the Kara-Uziak.

The

first

stage,

from

Kazaly to Baskara settlement, a distance of about 1 7 miles,

land,

was performed through

excellent

high reeds and even cultivated

meadow

fields

;

the

remaining portion of the distance to Kara-Uziak, notwithstanding the close proximity of

a

great

342

Ti-ficcla in

river,

(\'iitral Ji^ia.

extended through a sahne argillaceous

soil,

lying in a tract depressed below the usual level of

the Steppe, the barrenness of which even exceeds

Kara-Kum

the

Good though

sands.

meadow-land occurred

of

small patches of not less

at a distance

than 12 or 15 miles from each other, and these, the only spots suitaljle for agricultural pm-suits, were

used

for

encampment

In the absence of

at night.

these oases, which were produced rains,

by heavy spring

would have been impossible even

it

for

a

small force to have marched along the banks of

In these parts

the

river.

and

their camels can only exist

ith

Kirghizes the wdnter

met

traces to be

here are solitary graves, or large cemeteries of

iiiK'ient

more

dming

The only human

in the reeds. \\

even the

and modern

In the absence of

origin.

definite physical

features,

by

Mliicli

to

dis-

tinguish them, these cemeteries give the names to the surrounding settlements.

Notwithstanding the

of

sterility

country

the

lying along the Syr-Daria, the expeditionary force

The

reached Kara-l ziak satisfactorily.

tempered

as

it

was

could be sustained by both

any suffering; fortunately, of

the march, there

a\

sultry heat,

by cool

breezes,

men and beasts

without

in the day-time

also,

as a

during the

fall

of rain,

last

week

and the

Danger from Fire

atmosphere was cleared on three thunder entire

march only seven men

by

occasions

throughout

There were

storms.

343

in the Steppe.

the

suffering from sick-

ness in the three battalions, while not a single horse or camel was

Leaving

lost.

Kara-Uziak on the 26th

troops were

met by a swarm

June, the

of locusts,

which

continued flying over their heads for a whole day.

In some places they were obliged to march over a thick layer of these insects.

All the

grass

and

yeeds were consumed by these pests along the whole route,

and

at night,

for the horses,

no herbage could be procured

which were on

this occasion fed

Happily, the tract

dry provender.

despoiled by the locusts was soon troops,

and on the next

left

on

of country

behind by the

day grass was again

procured.

The

force

still

more

serious danger of

fortunately escaped another

by no means unfrequent occur-

rence in the Steppe.

Two nights in succession a lurid reflection was seen in the skies,

and a black

pillar of

smoke

time, which told of burning reeds

ahead.

And

so

it

proved

;

in the

day

and brushwood

between Bergunda

settlement and Tura-Tan tomb, scorched tracts of land, with a strong smell of burning reeds in the

-544

Travels in Cejdral J.sia.

Had

were passed.

air,

from

the

fire

made headway

this point, the safety of the troops

would have

been seriously jeopardized. Luckily, heavy showers

had extinguished the

of rain falling for two days

smouldering Steppe.

Gad

flies

and mosquitoes, likewise sorely

the patience both of also

in

the last

stages

had to be excavated three stages of

men and

canals,

currents.

the water

was bad, so that

at several

wells

Within

places.

marching along the narrow;

track of the road, which

by

;

Ak-Mechet the corps had to encoim-

ter great fatigue in

prickly shrubs

animals

tried

is

thickly overgrown with

and intersected

some

at frequent intervals

of which are deep

and have strong

Every step of the road had to be cleared

and frequent stoppages were

of prickly obstacles,

necessary for filling in the canals and levelling thenraised banks.

The progress

of the corps

was only

at the average rate of

two versts an hour and even less.

At length, on the

:2iid

before

Ak-Mechet with a

camped on the banks

of July, Perovski arrived light detachment,

of the Syr, within

and en-

600 fathoms

of the walls of the fortress.

Meanwhile the Kokanians had

lost

no time

in

taking advantage of the unsuccessful attempt of the

Russians against Ak-Mechet during the previous

Additional Fortifications at Ak-Mechet.

345

In anticipation of a new Russian expedition,

year.

they had

made

great improvements

The

fications of their stronghold.

which would have

facilitated

in the forti-

exterior rampart,

approaches to the

was now demolished, and the buildings

citadel,

pulled

inside

Two

dovra.

which had

ditches,

encircled the citadel, were joined into one, one

The

a half fathom broad and ten feet deep. figuration of the citadel

The

angles

interior

had

and con-

likewise been changed.

were

the

destroyed;

thickened, and the whole place had been

The

assume a more regular shape.

walls

made

to

citadel con-

sisted of a quadrangular structure, with eight towers

situated at the angles faces.

The height

The summit by

and

at the

of the walls

centre of the

was fom* fathoms.

of the walls was protected at the faces

battlements five feet in thickness,

crenelated

The embra-

and by a breastwork on the towers.

sures in this breastwork, as also those in the walls,

of clay, were

being formed of cemented lumps easily concealed.

The

structed of the same

repaired citadel,

citadel

being Hkewise con-

materials,

when damaged.

could be easily

The only

gates of the

which were on the southern

defended by a rior front.

lofty crenelated wall

on

face,

were

their exte-

346

Travels la Central

In the interior of the

Ada.

citadel,

mud

as the

huts,

Kirghizes said, were erected in regular order and

formed narrow

According to information

lanes.

which the Russians received, the garrison consisted time of 300 men, of

at that

whom 100 had

horses,

and was provided with provisions and provender calculated to last a month.

The

citadel

was armed

with three guns, two of which threw one and a half inch

It

shells.

was ascertained that

gunpowder had been Tashkend on

sent

sixty camels.

to

The

shot, shell,

the

fortress

garrison

and

from

had

also

prepared pieces of clay and huge blocks of wood

on the

down

walls, to hurl

at

the assailants, on

their reaching the breach.

On receipt of

the foregoing information, and after

a personal inspection of the place, Perovski arrived at

the conclusion that the

guns of

and

his force,

shell at his

disposal,

number and

calibre

of the

also the supply of shot

were insufiicent

for

and

making a

breach in the clay walls of four fathoms thickness.

He

also considered

of the walls,

ladders

six

alone,

it

inexpedient to order an assault

fathoms high, with fascines and

without

first

making

a

breach.

Perovski resolved therefore not to hurry on the approaches, and decided, in case the horizontal iailed

to

make

the

garrison

fire

surrender, that the

Coinmc'HceiJieut of Active Hostilities.

was not to be attempted

assault

347

mine

until the

imder the tower had been sprung. Messengers were despatched, immediately on the

summoning

arrival of Perovski,

the fort to surrender.

the

commander

of

The Kokanians, however,

allowed the bearers of the flag of truce to approach close within gun-shot, fire

pf musketry,

their

&om

succeeded by discharges

Prom

guns.

and then opened on them a

day a regular

this

maintained from the

As

fort.

siege

fire

was

operations

could only be undertaken on the arrival of the

remaining portion of the troops, pending their arrival the necessary preliminary works w^ere at once com-

menced.

A

reconnoissance

was made of

the

neighbourhood of Ak-Mechet, and a survey taken of the whole of

Ak-Mechet

island.

A

party of Cos-

sacks was sent to occupy the opposite river, facing

the

bank

of the

observe the enemy's move-

fort, to

ments, the breadth of the river was measured, and

found to be from 308 to 318 fathoms opposite the fort,

communication

established

by a

being prepared. "Perovski,"

ferry,

On

was

lastly fascines

were

left

the 4th July the

commanded by Captain two

the 5th July, the

first

and

bank

the

and

cast anchor

arrived

On

with

versts

steamer

Butakov,

below the

fort.

battery was erected at

—

348

Travels in Central Asia.

250 fathoms from the

fortress,

and on the

6th,

on

which day a concentration of the whole Russian force took place, another battery

on the

left

was constructed

bank.

By the 8th aU the five Russian batteries had opened on the

fire

By

fort.

had been advanced

the 9th part of the batteries to

150 fathoms of the

The approaches were commenced on the the

13th,

walls.

10th.

On

a Kirghiz, seized at Kosh- Kurgan as a

Kokanian spy, was sent

to the fort with a

for the garrison to surrender.

He was

at

summons the same

time the beai-er of the following letter to the Kokanian

Commandant

:

""From the Governor -General of Orenburg

Commander of "

By

the

the Fortress of Ak-2Iechet.

my

order of

to

Sovereign, the

Emperor

of

all

the Russias, I have come to take Ak-Mechet, erected

by the Kokanians on Russian

territory for the pur-

pose of oppressing the Kirghizes, subjects of His Imperial Majesty. "

Ak-Mechet

inside

it,

is

already taken, although you are

and you cannot faU to perceive that with-

out losing any of

my

men,

destroy every one of you.

I

am

in

a position to

Diplomatic Prelhninaries of the Siege. "

The Russians have come

349

hither not for a day,

nor yet for a year, but for ever.

They

will not

retire.

" If

you wish

to live, ask for mercy; should

prefer to die in Ak-Mechet,

you can do

so

;

I

you

am

not pressed for time, and do not intend to hurry you. 1 here repeat that I do not bat,

come

to offer

you com-

but to thrash you until you open your

gates.

" All this I would have told you on the of

my

arrival,

fortress fire

when

I

first

day

approached the waUs of your

unarmed, had you not traitorously opened

on me, which

is

not customary

among honour-

summons was

to be returned

able soldiers."

An

answer to

before

this

The messenger was

evening.

into the fortress

;

discontinued on

in the

meantime the

both sides until evening,

the messenger returned with a

Commandant. existing

admitted firing

This was to

reply

the

was

when

from the

efiect that the

Kokanian Government declined

to

be

answerable for the acts of oppression committed in the country

by the Kiptchaks;

that the Russian

detachment had approached the having declared war, and that that the Kokanians

bearers;

that

the

fired at

fortress

without

was owing

to this

the Russian

truce-

it

commander

was

willing

to

350

Travels in Central Jsia.

evacuate the fortress on condition that the Russians

allowed him fifteen days for the purpose, and retired

from under the

The

walls.

garrison

would

other-

wise resist so long as the gun barrels remained in their stocks, or their sword-blades

and spear-handles

unbroken, and the supply of Kisiak* vmexhausted.

In consequence of

this

message, the bombard-

ment was renewed on both

sides on the following

day, and the Russians continued to throw

From

works.

the

and throughout

its

commencement the

duration,

siego

of the attack,

besieged

posed a stern resistance to the Russians

o])-

in their

take the place, and very expeditiously

efforts to

paired

up

all

damages.

By

re-

the 14th (26th) July, the

approaches were brought to within two fathoms of the ditch.

The slow advance

of the siege works

among

the Russian soldiers

caiised great discontent

On

and Cossacks.

reaching Ak-Mechet they were

confident that the fortress would be taken a day or

two less

after then-

appearance before

of the breadth

its

walls.

Regard-

and depth of the moat, and the

height and steepness of the walls, they impatiently

awaited orders for storming the place in preference to the

tedium of siege operations.

* Kisiak. besieged.

— Hard

lumps of clay hurled from the walls

at

tlie

Incidents of

The

who

Kirghizes,

the.

351

Siege.

stood in great awe of the

Kokanians, and had been impoverished by them,

were

Russians would retire

at first afraid that the

from before Ak-Mechet.

Theu- apprehensions on

account were so strong that

this

obstinately sian

refused to

they at

sell their cattle

soldiery, fearing the

first

Rus-

to the

vengeance of the Koka-

Seeing, however, that the besiegers were

nians.

making preparations

were

apprehensions

their

district,

for passing the winter in the

and

pacified,

about 150 of them volunteered their assistance

in

erecting temporary quarters and magazines.

The

siege

works continued to advance

the in-

;

fantry soldiers, Cossacks, and bashkirs were If the

ployed in digging trenches.

latter

all

em-

could

only have been kept silent during the night work,

they would have been more serviceable than the other

But they were distinguished by a

troops.

childish simplicity; selves to danger.

and unnecessarily exposed them-

Nearly

all

those bashkirs

who had

been wounded, were themselves to blame.

Some

were either tired of proceeding under cover of the trenches,

the

fire

and would boldly expose themselves to

of the Kokanians, or

some would

stealthilv

melon

under the

walls,

repair to

the

fields

slake their thirst with the water-melons fruits that

grew

in

abundance

there.

to

and other

-

352

Travels in Central Af
The

infantry

One

displayed great daring.

and bashkirs

Cossacks,

soldiers,

of the former, called

some bags

Gregorief, on one occasion spied

with earth, which had probably

fallen

filled

down from the

breastwork erected by the Kokanians on the top

He

of the tower.

day, and

middle of the

sallied out in the

mounting the breach, seized the bags, and

shook the earth out of them,

after

which he

returned to his post, imder a straggling besieged.

On

quietly

the

fire of

being reprimanded for his temerity,

he urged in excuse, that his linen was in a

dilapi-

dated condition, and that he required the bags

for

furnishing himself with a fresh stock.

The

Kirghizes,

nearly three

the

in

weeks

Russian troops

Mechet,

had

already

first

appeared

and that the

began to entertain

meantime, seeing that

the

fears

fortress

that

into the hands of the Russians.

elapsed

on

its

before

still

held

Akout,

would never

fall

A rumour had

fur-

it

thermore reached the Khghizes that

was

since

way from Tashkend

a strong force

to relieve

Ak-

Mechet, and the garrison evidently expected speedy succour from that quarter.

Perofski determined,

therefore, to reconnoitre the country towards Tash-

kend, as far as Fort Djulek. entrusted

This operation was

to Major-General Padurof, who, taking

—

Prosecution of the

Bashkirs and a

fifty

Siec/e.

353

liglit field-piece,

marched out

on the 21st July (2nd August), and reached Fort Djulek the

—

distant

100 miles from Ak-Mechet— on

evening of the

miles

When

23rd.

within a few

of the fort, he ascertained from

ghizes that the sixty Kokanians

some Kir-

who had occupied

hearing of the advance of the Russian detach-

it,

ment, had hastily abandoned

and

fled in the di-

rection of Turkestan, leaving their

arms behind.

it,

General Padurof inamediately took possession of the

fort,

and remained

in

it

until the

During that time he blew down the fire

By

the buildings inside.

to

(8th August) he

25th July.

walls,

and

set

the 27th July

returned to the Russian camp,

bringing with him twenty guns, falconets, powder,

and

lead, seized in

the

fort.

These trophies

dis-

pelled the fears of the Kirghizes concerning the ad-

vance of a relieving force from Tashkend.

The tion

;

siege

works meanwhile approached comple-

the fosse of the fortress had

passed by a covered sap, and finished.

It

only

already been

the mine-gallery

now remained

to load the

two

chambers, which was done during the night of the 27th July (8th August). time received

full

The

troops at the same

instructions

for

action.

arrangements for storming were as follows

:

A A

The

354

At

Travels in Ce7itral Asia.

ten

on the

o'clock

moming

the 27th

of

August, two congreve rockets were to be discharged at the walls.

At eleven,

a

gun was to be

one battery, and a second shot made at

fired

from

one o'clock

on the morning of the 28th Jidy (9th August)

At midnight, and

from another battery. o'clock,

false

two

at

alarms were to be sounded in the

trenches, in order to lead the garrison to suppose

that the infantry besieging the fortress

the same groimd. rockets,

The

would be

to

trenches,

on

to fatigue

to suppose that the night.

It

was,

be expected that towards dawn

all

asleep in the fortress.

After the

were

them

would not be made that

therefore, to

still

shots from the batteries,

and two alarms, were intended

the Kokanians, and lead assault

was

first

alarm

commence and

at

midnight,

the troops

issuing in parties

their gradual withdrawal

from the

was to con-

tinue until the second alarm. Before dawn, at three in the morning, on the discharge of three rockets,

the remaining soldiers were to abandon the works,

and a company would occupy the covered All the other

men would

trenches.

then be stationed 300

fathoms from the point where the mine would explode.

After

rockets

would be discharged

this,

at half-past three,

when

three

in rapid succession,

Sap Finished and

Tlie

Mine

the

855

Sprunc/.

the mine would be sprung, and the storm

would

immediately commence. All these arrangements were pimctually carried

At

out.

three o'clock, in the grey light of dawn,

the earth shook, and a black mass of earth was

hurled into the

mounds on

down

falling

fortress,

two confused

in

Dense clouds

the ground.

enveloped the

from

air,

and piercing

of dust

shrieks arose

The mine was sprung

behind the walls.

most successfully; the part blown up presented an opening more than ten fathoms broad, and tunately the

dam

for-

for the covered sap across the

ditch, in front of the

mine

gallery,

had been

left

uninjured.

The breach thus made, even to

become

of

dust,

clearly defined

was kept

from the batteries at this critical

mind and

clear

before

had time

through the thick clouds

by discharges

of grape

The

garrison

opposite

it.

moment showed

intrepidity.

it

great presence of

Five minutes had hardly

elapsed after the explosion, and the shrieks and cries

of

subsided,

the

women and

when

the

children

had not yet

Kokanians were already

the breach, and though exposed to a severe grape, poured heavy discharges

the

batteries

and

of

at

fire

of

musketry

at

Russian storming

columns.

350

TrdcelK: in

Central

Jx'ta.

According to previous arrangemeiits, the storming party was led

by the the

of

battalion

company

1st

by a party of

headed

line,

of the 4th

the whole force being commanded

sharpshooters,

by Lieutenant

Twice the Russians rushed

Erdeli.

the assault, but were vigorously repulsed each

to

and driven

time, tlie

into

ditch

the

third attempt that the

was only

it

;

Kokanians were forced

and the Russians, reinforced by another

to retreat,

company, occupied

all

the walls and opened

from the guns on the gamson inside. lasted ])ast

was

A. M.

of the

at

all

standing

his

Kokanians

the spirit of

commencement

the

showed

and were kiUed

though

the

fort,

short,

the

to a

half-

twelve

the breach,

Notwith-

the garrison, was of

the

storm,

all

same determined

Two

man.

hundi-ed

the ditch and

which proves that the struggle,

was exceedingly

The Russian killed,

at

was most desperate.

thirty bodies were counted in

inside

by

Muhamed-Vali, the commandant,

that

subordinates

spirit,

and

at

assault

Sth of August,' the fortress

of the

points,

who had upheld killed

fire

hands of the Russians.

in the

The defence and

The

twenty minutes, and

altogether

4

after

loss

severe.

consisted of thirteen soldiers

mortally,

seventet'U

severely,

and

Results of the Capture of Ak-Mechet.

357

twenty-three slightly wounded, and eight officers

The

wounded.

trophies of the victors were

bunchuks, or horse-tail standards, two spear

two

two brass of

mostly

artillery,

one hundred and

and

dismantled

fifty

sabres,

and

shattered,

two

suits

of

In addition to these, there were

chain-armour.

1000

captured

flags,

guns, several falconets, sixty-six pieces

a

cannon-balls,

considerable

quantity of powder and lead, and one hundred and

twenty horses.

The capture of Ak-Mechet must have produced a strong impression on the Kokanians, as in possessed a very important position

and

commercial

considered

dominion

the

on

This

respects.

Lower

Syr,

supposed to be impregnable, several sieges.

to

This belief in

some extent the desperate and

defence,

its

fate

Kokanians, who, in

and

Kokanian

by

several

it

having withstood

its

strength explains

efforts

made

Perovski intended at

in

make

it.

first

to leave

Ak-Mechet

(named Fort Perovski by the Russians after capture) repair

in

the

the same

damages

its

to the

probability will yet

several attempts to regain

was

fortress

was a severe blow

all

they

military

in

bulwark of

strongest

the

it

its

condition, only proposing to it

had

sustained

by the

;

358

Travels in Central Asia.

explosion and cannonade, and

to strengthen

its

lateral defences.

On

tlie

march

Ak-Mechet, two

of

forts

the expeditionary corps to

were erected on the Syr-

Daria, according to plans

one at the source

Karmakchi Mechet,

Kazala, the other at

of the

After the taking of Ak-

settlement.

the

drawn up by Perovski

Kokanian

small

fort

Kumysh-

of

Kurgan, on the right bank of the Kuvan-Darya,

was

occupied of

siege

by

the

Ak-Mechet

During

Russians.

this

small

fort

had

the

been

abandoned by the Kokanians, who on taking

to

were attacked and beaten by the Kirghizes,

flight,

who brought

to Perovski the falconets

pieces of ordnance found

The

fort

by them

and

several

in the fort.

founded on the head waters of the

Kazala was ordered to be named Port No. that at

Karmakchi Port No.

Kumysh-Kurgan, Port No.

3.

2,

and

lastly

1,*

Port

f

Meanwhile the Kokanians could not look with indifference on the

establishment of the Russians

on the right bank of the Syr-Daria, and determined at all

On

hazards to recaptm-e Ak-Mechet. the 21st August (2nd September) reliable in* The Aral Fort was removed

t Abandoned

in 1855.

liither in

1855.

Etiffaffement tvith

a Kokanian Reinforcement. 359

formation was brought

by

spies to Fort Perovski,

Kokanians had marched

that a considerable force of

out from Tashkend, headed by the ruler of that

town, Sabdan-Hodja kestan,

that he

;

had passed by Tur-

and now occupied the ruined Eort Djulek. was shortly

Intelligence

after

received

of

enemy having advanced on Fort

Perovski.

A

de-

field -pieces,

was

tachment of 275

men

with three

the

thereupon sent to reconnoitre and attack the Kokanians

who were

posted at the old Ber-Kazansk ford,

twenty-eight versts (eighteen miles) from the at

Kum-Suat

The detachment had

settlement.

only just time to form line of battle,

by clouds

attacked

cries.

was repulsed by discharges

siderable

kindled

in the

morning

at last fatigued,

number

resolved

it

was

to

charge

and musketry,

until

it

and having

killed

first

to repeat their attacks

grew dusk. lost a

con-

and wounded, they

around the Russian

fires

apparently

in

The

of grape

but the Kokanians continued

Becoming

when

Kokanian horsemen, who

of

dashed forward with loud

from eleven

fort,

encamp

position,

there

for

and the

night.

Surrounded by the enemy, and having already

had

five

men

Borodin, the

killed

and twenty-one wounded,

officer in

charge of the Russian de-

360

Travels in Central

Ixia.

tachment, despatched messengers to the fort for reinforcements, two Cossacks

who swam down beai'ers of the

the

demands

force, consisting of

200

river

and three Ku-ghizes, being the

night,

at

for succour.

An

foot soldiers

and Cossacks,

additional

with one gun, accordingly reached the detachment

by mid-day Their

August (5th September).

of the 25th

was

however,

assistance,

not

required.

Already before dawn the Russian outposts heard

movement among the Kokanians, and it

at

a

dajbreak

was discovered that they were already in motion

and retreating rapidly out of

sight.

The Cossacks

sent in pursuit could not overtake them.

Kokanians

of the

192 men field

;

killed,

the

in this

aflPair

The

amounted

loss

to

whose bodies were found on the

wounded were

carried

off,

according to

on ninety-six camels, while the

some Kirghizes,

whole numerical strength of the enemy had not exceeded 7000 men. Information was soon after brought by traders returning from Kokan, and by Kirghizes, that large supplies of provisions, powder,

brought to Turkestan. that the

Khan

oi

and lead were being

It was,

moreover, reported

Khokan intended

to repair to

Turkestan in person, and to march against Fort Perovski

as

soon as the S\r-Daria was

frozen.

Humours of an Attach

361

in Force.

These rumours did not, however, become confirmed

month

On

end of Noveinber.

until the

and more

(0. S.)

the 30th of that

particularly on the

5th

December, Lieutenant-Colonel Ogaref, commanding flank of the Syr-Daria line, ascertained that

the

left

the

Khan

Kokan had ordered

of

under

assemble at Tashkend,

a large

force to

command

the

of

Takun-Beg, commander-in-chief of the Khan, with This force

the object of attacking the Russians.

marched

moved

to

on

to Turkestan

the

24th November,

Yany-Kurgan on the 2nd December, and

reached Djulek during the night of the 4th.

Erom

Yany-Kurgan, the Kokanians sent addresses

to the

Begs of the Kiptchak Kirghiz the Russians.

The Kokanians

tribe

encamped near

in these addresses en-

deavoured to conciliate the Kirghizes, declaring that

any harm, and that the

they should not suffer

armed

force

was directed against the Russians, who

were to be driven not only from Fort Perovski, but also out of

The

aU the other

position

of

forts of the Steppe.

the

Syr-Daria

line

period was far from being secure, as

it

at

this

was im-

possible to send reinforcements to Port Perovski

during the winter season.

A

winter expedition

could not be undertaken without special preparations.

The

garrison

of

the

fort,

however, was B B

;

362

Travels in Central Asia.

infantry soldiers,

men, and

287

The

fort

sailors,

vpith

was

and other provisions

;

it

consisted of 631

cavalry, ninety-five artillery-

forty-two

1055 combatants, mortars.

strong

sufficiently

relatively

making a

guns and

fourteen

also supplied

for a year

and a

sustained

by the

advanced in

Kokanians,

superior

numbers

August preceding, success could

The condition 200 and 60

of Forts No. 2

versts respectively

assistance

from the

latter place.

could

The

the repulse

they

in the

month

safely

be counted

and

3, situated at

not

Owing

to

their

be sent to them

defences of Fort No. 3

hurriedly

repaired after the Kokanians had abandoned

while Fort No. 2 was nothing more than a

work, and did not shelter

afford the garrison

it

field-

sufficient

Although the garrisons

from snow-drifts.

of these forts

of

attack.

had only been

were very weak, 'and

had

from Fort Perovski,

was much more embarrassing. isolation,

Under

when

on another

on, should they venture

five

with forage

half.

such circumstances, and considering

of

total

were strong enough in proportion to

the size of the works, they were }ct numerically

weak. fifty-five

In Fort No. foot

artillerymen,

2, in

soldiers,

making

December, there were

fifty-fom^

in all

cavalry,

seven

116 men and one gun.

Fort Perovski iesieged hy 13,000 Kokanians. 363

manned by

Fort No. 3 was

fifty-five foot soldiers,

twenty-six cavalry, and seven artillerymen, in eighty-eight

men and

have been able to Port

to

Perovski,

These would not

one gun.

resist a

that

numerous enemy.

As

foreseeing

the

general,

possibility of an attack in the winter,

ments

in the

autumn

made

arrange-

for strengthening the garri-

with 100 Cossacks of the Ural

son

all

from Fort

Aralsk.

Such was the condition tions

on the Syr-Daria

when, on the 14th of

line,

December, the Kokanians to

of the Russian fortifica-

—numbering from 12,000

13,000 men, with a small park of seventeen

Having

brass guns, appeared before Fort Perovski.

formed a camp on the

and a haK

versts

bank of the

left

from the

fort,

they

Syr,

two

made attempts

during the 14th, 15th, 16th, and 17th, to sur-

round the pelled

to

Kokanian

on

fort

retire

all sides,

in

artillery

but were always com-

disorder.

The

fire

the

did not produce any damage

to the fort, while that of the Russians

execution.

of

did great

Lieutenant- Colonel Ogaref, conscious

of the disadvantage ©f being besieged for a long

period of time,

sudden great

sortie

resolved

to

try the

effect of a

on the enemy, notwithstanding the

disparity in numbers.

At dawn on the B B 2

364

Travels in Central jhla.

18th,

lie

550 men, with

sent out a detachment of

four field-pieces

command

and two rocket

Major Shkupa, who, under cover of

of

the fog, approached within

400 fathoms

enemy's camp, and opened a running

The

lery.

at first,

on the

under

batteries,

fire

of

the

of artil-

Kokanians replied in the same manner

and then made but

flanks,

all

several attacks in front

and

these were repulsed by

dis-

The enemy

charges of grape and musketry.

surrounded the Russian detachment on

last

and pressed hard

sides,

The

flanks.

situation

coming rather

critical,

fortunate turn to the

numbers and

ill

in the rear

at all

and on the

the Russians was be-

of

but Major Shkupa gave a aff'air.

Perceiving that the

of the Kokanians attached to the guns

the

camp had considerably diminished, he

rushed forward with the greater part of his

force,

routed the Kokanian sharpshooters, and vigorously attacked the Kokanian

artillery.

fled in disorder, leaving the

The

guns and baggage

the hands of the Russians. At this

critical

the rest of the Russian force that in

position were sustaining a severe

engaged ians,

in a

hand-to-hand

artillerymen in

juncture

had remained fire,

conflict, until

and even

the Kokan-

alarmed by the flames of their burning camp,

and attacked

l)y

two

fresh

detachments consisting

Kokaiiitui Fhiiis of

(Jaiiip(ii(jii.

of one hundred

and

out of the

hastily retired in

fort,

sixty

men, that had been sent

engagement was over by twelve of the Kokanians

amounted

to

and the Russians had eighteen wounded. sisted of

The

;3()5

The

disorder.

o'clock.

The

two thousand killed

loss

killed,

and forty-nine

trophies that were captured con-

four horse-hair standards,

seventeen guns, and one hundred and

seven thirty

flags,

puds

of gunpowder.

In April, 1854, Perovski was informed that the

Kokanians had been making military preparations

on a great

scale in

the latter part of the winter of

Troops had been collected

the preceding year.

in

Turkestan, and a gun founder had been sent thither to cast

some guns,

Tashkend had

men

which purpose the Beg of

forcibly seized

the inhabitants.

sand

for

An

all

the brass utensils of

organized army of ten thou-

was expected to arrive at Tashkend, and

orders were given there and at eight

hundred horses

object of these

preparations

was

defensive in case the Russians

parations be

made by

to prepare

ensuing spring.

for the

Turkestan and Tashkend.

Kokan

to

The

act on the

should march on

Should no warlike pre-

the Russians, the Kokanians

then intended in the spring to march against the

Russian

forts

on the Syr-Daria, and to pillage the

366

Travels

in

Ceiifrnl A-^ia.

Kirghizes. It was likewise of

rumoured that the Khan

Khiva had promised the Kokanians

and guns could

to the Fort of Hodja-Nias,

either

act

else

No.

attack Fort

while the Kokanians besieged Fort Perovski.

no

reliance could be placed

parations were being

on

made

men

so that this force

with the Kokanians

conjointly

against Fort Perovski, or

to send

this report, as

at

Khiva

2,

But

no pre-

for this pur-

pose.

With

the view of strengthening Fort Perovski,

Perovski determined to abandon Fort No.

2,

which

was not strong enough to hold out against the attack of a strong force.

After the capture of Ak-Mechet by the Russians,

and the

defeats of the

Kokanian hosts

part of the preceding year, no

serious

could be expected from the Kokanians.

inundations of the rivers that

in the latter

}'ear,

movement The

great

prevented the

Russians from reinforcing their garrisons on the Syr-Daria

line,

and

at the

same time hindered the

erection of fresh fortifications.

CHAPTER PAET

III.

Events in the Steppe during the Iset-Kutebarof,

cupation of Bjulek,

Crimean

Knight of

the

Attempt of Ferovski

X.

to

the

War.

Steppe.

occupy Hodja-Nias.

—

— —

Oc-

and Destruction of Yany-

Kurc/an. 1854-62.

During 1854 rumours

of

hostile

preparations

by the Kokanians were repeatedly renewed and confirmed by their Steppe.

Rumours

demeanour of

agitations

the

Siberian

among

the Kir-

in

ghizes were likewise received from time to time. Sultan-Ali,

son

of

the

former rebellious

The

chief,

Kenisar-Kasimov, was said to be collecting together

308 a

Travels in Central Ai
band of seven thousand men

for co-operating

with

the Kokanians by attacking the Siberian Kirghizes,

and forcing them Kokanians

to secede

endeavours to gahi over the

their

in

from the Russians. The

Dikokamenni Kirghizes cealed the defeats they

to their side, not only con-

had sustained

in 1853, but

even gave out that they had completely routed the Russians, and declared that, having

Khan

of Khiva,

the

Emir

of

now

joined the

Bokhara and the

Sultan of Turkey, who, they said, had already des-

patched a strong army against the Russians, they intended to drive these invaders altogether out of the Steppe. Suffi-Beg,

a

Kokanian

leader,

who had been

forced to fly m ith his troops from Fort Perovski, in

"We

December, 1853, said to the Kirghizes,

slaughtered

the Kaffirs in

such numbers that a

horse could not step over their dead bodies."

Nothing of October.

of importance occurred imtil the

This irresolution on the

Kokanians was partly owing subsisting

between

partly to their

own

currently reported

been fixed on

part of the

to the relations then

Kokan and

Bokhara,

timidity and weakness. that the

for their

month

month

and

It

was

of April

had

march on Port Perovski;

but the appearance of Bokharian troops on

the

369

Intrigues on the Steppe.

Kokan frontier induced

the

Khan

to delay the de-

parture of his force.

The Emir

of Bokhara, taking advantage of the

unsettled state of Kokan, collected a large

army^-

most probably with the intention of employing against Kokan, on the

The

troops assembled

first

it

favourable opportunity.

by theEmir,

receiving neither

pay nor provisions, were marched by his orders to Bokharian

the

Fortress

of

Konagatchi, on the

borders of Bokhara and Kokan, with the object of

sacking the

frontier

Kokanian

ovsdng to this circumstance that the

It

forts.

Khan

of

was

Kokan

diverted the expedition against Fort Perovski for

the time.

On the

rations for

war might only have been the

other hand, these noisy prepaeffect

of fear, or from apprehension that the Russians

would themselves march on Turkestan and TashIn the month of October, intelligence was

kend.

brought by

Kazan merchant from Tashkend,

a

of the arrival of a

Khivan ambassador and

suite

at that

town, with proposals to the Ruler of Tash-

kend

make

But

to as

Khan

of

a

combined attack on Port Perovski.

that ruler

was under the control of the

Kokan, without whose sanction he could

not accede to the request, the Khivan ambassador

had proceeded

to

Kokan.

"

'Pracch in Central Asia.

•^ /

During the summer, four considerable

money had been

raised from

the

levies of

inhabitants of

Tashkend, and a force despatched in the direction

At the same time

of the Siberian frontier.

the Khivan ambassador was

Khan

alliance with the

of the to

Khivan Tort

of

that

making proposals

of

Kokan, the commander

of Hodja-Nias sent messengers

the Russian authorities on the Syr-Daria line,

with assurances of friendship,

It

was

also reported

that the Khivans intended, with a large force, to

invade the Russian Steppe, from the side of the Ust-Urt, in the direction of the Aralsk Fort.

During the whole period of the Crimean war, from 1854 to 1856, nothing of special importance occurred in the Steppe, excepting the

increase of

inroads of Kirghiz bands, particularly

under the

leadership of Iset Kutebar.

1859, during his

visit

great attention in

to

public,

St.

This man,

who

in

Petersburg, attracted

had

for

twenty years

kept the Steppe in a continual state of alarm and excitement. Iset

was the son of the celebrated robber and

baranta leader Kutebar, and the constant companion of his father, on whose death he assumed the leadership of the band.

famous

in the

Iset's

name

first

became

Steppe in 1822, for the robbery of a

.

Bokliavian

/

Kirghiz

caravan

Siberian Hne.

It

that

Bob

Ml

Ihitf.

had started from

would be too tedious

to

tlie

enume-

rate all the petty depredations of this liold Kirghiz,

IsetKttkbak

and

it

will

therefore be suiRcient to mention his

more remarkable

exploits only.

In 1834 he drove off 1,200 horses belonging to

372

Trnveh

in Centred Asia.

Kirghizes of the Djikeyef tribe.

In 1838 he seized

a stud of Cossack horses, and took an officer and six Cossacks prisoners,

leased.

who were subsequently

re-

In the same year he waylaid and pillaged

a caravan of Orenburg traders, carr} ing off a va-

He

luable booty.

despoiled the Kirghizes of

also

the Tabynsk tribe of 1500 horses, besides driving aAvay

200 head of

on the Emba.

cattle

from the old

fortification

In 1840 he again plundered a ca-

ravan of Russian and Bokharian traders value of 15,000 silver roubles.

to

the

In a baranta in the

year 1S42, he "lifted" from Kirghizes of various tribes a great quantity of cattle,

horses.

Kutebar's robberies were frequently ac-

companied by murder, and

and

and about 2000

spoliation,

he always

after his acts of violence hastily-

retreated into the

heart of the Steppe, or into the Khivan territory.

Between the years 1S42 and 1^44 he remained

at

Khiva, and, returning from thence to the Horde, tried to gain the favour of the Russian

He

kept the

officers

with the plans

Government.

on the frontier acquainted

and movements of the Kirghiz

Sultan (Kenisar Kasimof),

who was then

in

open

revolt in the Trans-Aral Steppe, and furnished in-

formation regarding the

In 1845,

he

made

affairs of

Khiva.

overtures

of

submission

Career of J-set Kulehdr.

to Bai-Muhanied-Aichuvakof,

Western division

of the

.'573

Sultan-ruler of the

Korde

;

who, deceived by

his apparent sincerity, obtained for

him

—while on

1^.

Nazu; Kutedau.

a visit at St. Petersl)urg

—

Russian

l^ut before

(Jovernment.

a gold uicdal this

froui the

mark

favour reached Iset, information was received

of

tliat,

374

Travels in Central Asia.

joined by 100 Khivans, and a considerable band of Kirghiz

adlierents,

laging friendly

atils,

tent-tax to Russia,

he

had commenced

forbidding them to

and was

pil-

pay the

also intriguing to pre-

vent the erection of Russian forts in the Steppe.

His force was soon scattered by a detachment sent against

it,

did not

and

last long.

moned 600

But

tranquillity again restored.

it

In 1848, Kutebar again sum-

Khivans,

and made

a

sudden on-

slaught on a convoy of provisions and a relieving

The

detachment proceeding to Fort Aralsk.

at-

tempt was not successful, the Khivans having been repulsed and put to

flight.

Iset, after this,

again

addressed a letter to the Sultan-ruler Araslan, with assurances of fidelity and submission. casion, they

many

tion to

immediately afterwards made Kirghizes

whom

inciting

him

restitu-

he had robbed in

" barantas," transmitted a letter from the

Khiva

this oc-

were to some extent confirmed by his

He

actions.

On

his

Khan

of

to rebel against the Russians,

restored part of the goods of which he

had robbed

the Bokharian caravan in 1847, and lastly, in 1849, delivered up at the frontier, the greater part of the cattle

he had seized from the Kirghizes at different

periods.

By

these acts, Iset succeeded in gaining the con-

Treackery of Iset Kutebar.

3.75

fidence of the Sultan so completely, that latter

was commissioned

to

watch the

when

secret

the

rela-

on between Kutebar and the Khivans,

tions carried

he always represented his conduct in a favourable light to the

Russian authorities.

In this condition did Kutebar's relations with 1863, when he again ex-

Russia continue until hibited his treachery

camp

his

by inducing the Kirghizes

of

to refuse supplying camels for the expe-

dition organized at that time against Ak-Mechet.

On

the capture of that fortress, a Russian force was

sent to punish

Kutebar

on

unsuccessful

season, but was

;

the search for hiiu proved

account

of the

lateness of the

again renewed in the spring of

1864, from Fort Aralsk, under Lieutenant-Colonel

Baron Von Wrangel.

by

several

This

Cossacks,

surprised

" aul," but could not take viously promised ence.

him

But even on

officer,

Kutebar

in

his

him prisoner, having

pre-

a safe passage for a confer-

this occasion

dered the malefactors

Kutebar surren-

who had sought

camp, and solemnly swore to appear to seek

accompanied

mercy and forgiveness for

refuge in his at

his misdeeds.

This promise, like the preceding ones him, remained unfulfilled.

came known

that Iset

Orenburg

made by

Early in 1865,

had renewed

it

be-

his relations

376

Travels in Cciifral As,la.

with Khiva, that he openly received the Khivan

and

tax-gatherers,

marauders.

On

M^as

again collecting a band of

the strength of this, Perovski gave

immediate orders to the commander of Port Aralsk,

watch narrowly the movements of the

to

commanded

rebel,

and

the Sultan-ruler Araslan Djantiirin, to

take the field immediately with a Cossack detach-

ment and 600 Kirghizes endeavour to capture him.

to

Kutebar,

against

and

This expedition ter-

minated very unfortunately.

The

Sultan-ruler, starting on the

7th

July,

had

hardly proceeded 140 versts from Fort Orsk, when his

camp was attacked by Kutebar's

panied the Sultan, took to

conflict.

Horde

them

and

flight,

dignitaries,

immber,

fell

their killed

back

he,

were killed

Having pillaged the camp, the

treated with their booty, five in

nmnber-

The 900 Kirghizes who accom-

ing 1500 men.

several other

force,

with

in the

rebels re-

and the Cossacks, seventyto

takuig with

the line,

and wounded.

Kutebar's audacity could not be allowed to

main uni)unished, more

by

his late success,

tlie

Kirghizes,

especially

as

re-

encouraged

he had commenced to oppress

and issued a

religious

proclamation

inciting to a general rising against the Russians.

Although the pursuit of the Kirghiz hands was,

Engagement with Iset Kutebar. attended with

in siunmer,

extreme

would have been inexpedient the

pursuit

of

Kutebar.

377

difficulty,

abandoned

to have

Perovski,

'

it

therefore,

without loss of time, despatched from Orsk, Orenburg, and the of the

Lower Uralsk Steppe, 600 Cossacks

Orenburg

corps,

300 men of the Uralsk and

Bashkir regiments, two field-guns, and the Orenburg battalion of the

line.

men

fifty

of

The command

of the whole detachment was entrusted to Lieute-

nant-Colonel Kuzminski.

Besides

this

force,

commander

the

of Fort

Uralsk received orders to act with the Cossacks at his disposal

from the side of the Mugodjar

the flank and in the rear of the rebels. consisting of a regiment of Bashkirs,

was

hills,

on

A

reserve,

800

strong,

also stationed in the fortress of Orsk.

In this manner, Iset Kutebar was apparently

surrounded on

all

sides.

On

the

3rd August

Kuzminski came up with Kutebar's band, numbering 2000 men, near the Kum-Cheargan sands, at the confluence of the Temir and

The robbers being out

from the

line.

had time

to disperse in

men

all

sent in pursuit succeeded

greater portion

versts

of gun-shot,

The

directions.

men, and seizing 600 head of

The

Emba, 360

horse-

in killing only a cattle

and

of Kutebar's force

few

horses.

had taken ('

c

37S

Travels in Central Asia.

the alarm a short time before, and sought safety in the Great Barsuki sands, or fled in the direction of the Ust-Urt.

Kuzminski now divided several parts, localities,

his

detachment into

and despatched them towards these

while another flying column was to co-

operate from Fort Aralsk.

Kutebar's band, after its

its

continued

dispersion,

depredations, principally on the caravan route,

flying

from place to place with great rapidity.

To

render the Russian communications secure, as well it

was

the troops in

the

as for the further pursuit of the marauders,

absolutely necessary

Steppe imtil ture of

been

was

to leave

late in the

the rebel

effected.

A

autumn, or until the cap-

ringleaders

and

last alternative

their

auls

had

remained, which

to keep a force in readiness during the

whole

winter, feeding the horses on dry fodder, and to re-

new

the pursuit early in

March when

the steeds of

the Kirghizes would be weakened from the scarcity of provender.

When

it

Kirghizes

was ascertained

that the

marauding

were seeking temporary refuge in the

Ust-Urt, three detachments were sent to surround

them

there,

and

it

was thought that they would be

soon forced to surrender on account of the scarcity

The Cossacks Defeated hy Iset Kutebar

and

of forage

In

food.

spite,

however, of

.

all

379 these

arrangements, this expedition, like the previous one,

terminated unsuccessfully.

Although

one

devastated 146

detachments

Kuzminski's

of

rebellious

aiils,

the success was

counterbalanced by a disaster in another quarter.

A party of fifteen Cossacks and seven Kirghizes with who had been

the Sultan Tungachin,

Emba

surrounded Kirghizes.

supply

a

for

of forage

on the Temir

sent to the

provisions,

by a body

at their assailants

down,

from behind them

fired

the Kirghizes, however, retir-

;

ing to a distance of 160 fathoms, opened

The

by which time or

fire

from

Their shots did more execution

rifles.

than those of the Russians, carbines.

500

The Cossacks, dismounting g,nd making

their camels kneel

their long

of

were

fusilade

who had

was kept up

only their

for four hours,

the Cossacks were either kiUed

all

wounded, Tungachin being among the former.

When fell

the

fire

of the Russians ceased, the Kirghizes

on the wounded, and kiUed them with their

spears

;

one Cossack alone remained

concealed himself

soon

discovered

among

by the

But he was

Kirghizes,

and though

wounded

thrusts,

and was then led away

two

having

the slain.

already

in

alive,

places, received five spear

Taking

prisoner. c

2

380

Travels in Central Asia.

advantage of the darkness of the night, the Cossack

made

his escape

on horseback, and reached Kuz-

minski's detachment on the fom-th day in a miserable condition.

now

Frost and bad weather having

set in,

all

further operations were necessarily suspended, and

the

troops

retired

the

to

Orenburg Cossacks were

Three hundred

line.

through the winter

left

with instructions to strengthen the defences of Port Aralsk

:

and,

if

necessary, to

march

into the Steppe

early in th§ spring.

This year's very

expedition the

fatiguing for

against

Kutebar

was

The detachment

troops.

had been got ready somewhat too expeditiously, and with

started

equipments

light

months and a half each versts

and

over very

;

during

three

had marched 2400

and inhospitable Steppes,

arid

suffered great privations in the scorching heat

of the

summer and cannot

It

altogether

still

the early frosts in October.

be said

that

unproductive

principal object

was

soldier

was not

at large,

of

the

good

;

Iset

rebellious

many

of

by the Russians, and

its

Kutebar Khghizes

them perished

the pursuit, a great quantity of their cattle seized

was

but

results,

attained.

but the

were severely punished

expedition

Iset Kutebar,

in

was

though

Renewed Pursuit of Iset Kutebar. left

381

with the greater part of his followers, who,

however, had become impoverished

by

tented, fled

and discon-

accounts to the South- Western

all

part of the Ust-Urt, to the Turkmen.

ence

among

the Kirghizes

In this state

affairs

now gradually

remained

1856.' In the month

His

of

until the

influ-

diminished.

summer

of

June, although every-

thing was quiet in the Steppe, PeroVski, in anof

ticipation

new

attempts on the part

of Iset,

despatched a force of 300 Orenburg Cossacks and one gun, in search of him, under the Lieutenant Colonel Plotnikof. act in conjunction with

This

command

officer

of

was to

Bai-Muhamed, Sultan of

the middle division of the Horde.

In the begin-

ning of August, Colonel Plotnikof having ascertained that Kutebar lay encamped near the As-

mantai-Matai sands, 350 versts from the Emba, proceeded to the Ust-Urt. versts,

he

tection

of

left his

200

After traversing 160

heavy baggage under the proCossacks

and

Kirghizes,

and

advanced by forced marches to the Matai sands, with

.the

intention of cutting off Kutebar's progress

to the shores of the Caspian,

found good pasture.

where he would have

The movement

of troops in

the open Steppe being difiicult to conceal, and as the

mutinous Kirghizes exercised great vigilance, they

382

Travels in Central Asia.

hastily fled to the desert shores of the

Sea of Aral,

on hearing of the advance of the Russian corps.

The detachment pursued them marching

days, last

two days,

in the

In

200

the

a temperature of 35° Fahrenheit

now found

Further

night.

at

impossible, as the fugitives

up and polluted the spite,

during

versts

and 20° degrees

day,

pursuit was filled

at

over

diligently for five

wells in their flight.

however, of these unfavourable circum-

stances, Plotnikof succeeded

by the rapidity

of his

advance in overtaking a part of the Kirghizes, and in

captming several

participators

in

relatives of Iset,

the

destruction

Araslan-Djantiirin, eighteen also

who had been

of

the

Sultan

months previous

wrested from them about 900 head of

Two

;

he

cattle.

of the captured Kirghizes fomad guilty of the

niiu-der

were condemned to death, and handed

The

over to the Provost- ^Marshal.

sentence, after

receiving the confirmation of Perovski, was carried into

large

the presence of a

at

Fort Aralsk,

in

number

of Kii'ghizes

and

eff'ect

had been siimmoned

their elders,

who

to witness the execution.

During the whole of the summer of

this

year

the tranquillity of the Steppe was not disturbed

and the post not once robbed,

as liad

quently the case in previous years.

been so

fre-

Death of Perovski.

383

Unfortunately, at this juncture, Perovski's death occurred, Kutebar remaining

still

unsubdued.

In May, 1857, a force consisting of 300 Cos-

under

sacks,

Lieutenant -Colonel

Plotnikof,

who

again sent in pursuit of Kutebar,

was

.was then

camping on the Ust-Urt, near Asmantai-Matai.

Once more, Kutebar succeeded through the barren

localities of

escaping

in

the Ust-Urt, along

the Western shore of the Sea of Aral, towards the

Khivan town of Kungrad. party in

that

direction,

Plotnikof sent a small

but

it

return, finding the wells choked useless.

cute

Seeing that

the

search

scarcity of water lost

it

after

and

by

several horses

was obliged

up

or rendered

was impossible

to prose-

Kutebar, owing

forage,

fatigue

to

to

the

and having already and want of pro-

vender, Plotnikof returned to the Little Barsuki sands.

Plotnikofs corps had but shortly Urt,

when

waterless

Iset,

Steppe

who had been

But

on the Western

as

the Ust-

driven into the

Sea of Aral, again returned with Asmantai.

left

coast his

of the atds

to

he had previously destroyed

the wells in these parts, he was forced by necessity to pitch his tents a short distance from a Russian

detachment, 300 strong, under Lieutenant-Colonel

3S4

Travels

in

^h
Central

Emba

Borodin, near the former

Borodin,

Fort.

without loss of time, descended the Emba, and then,

entering the Ust-Urt,

surprised

Kutebar's

About 600 head

auls on the 11th of September.

of cattle were seized, but Iset again effected his

escape with several companions.

In order to pre-

vent Kutebar from returning again to Asmantai,

and

to ensure the safety of the scientific expedition,

already mentioned as proceeding to the Syr-Daria

with Mr. Severtsof, Plotnikof's detachment again entered the Ust-Urt, where teen days

after which,

;

on the

went into winter quarters

1

7th of October,

Perovski, seeing

and almost impossibility of

difficulty

for sevenit

at Fort Orsk.

who succeeded

Katenin,

remained

it

the

capturing

Kutebar on the Ust-Urt by Russian detachments, considered chief over

it

by

expedient

to

gain

conciliatory measures

of forgiveness in the event of

mission

to

Russia.

proclaimed a

the

pardon

Katenin for all

his at

rebeUious

and promises complete sub-

the

same time

who had taken

part in

the marauding expeditions of Djan-Hodja.

measure proved successful,

as

during the

the former followers of Djan-Hodja

small "

aiils"

submission.

on the Syr-Daria, and In

the

following

This

summer

encamped

in

testified their

year

they

were

A

Garrison stationed at Fort Hodja-Nias. 385

followed by Kutebar himself,

during the journey of

of repentance

declarations

who appeared with

Katenin to the Steppe. In describing Kutebar's exploits,

—

^the

establish himself on the left

bank

its

arm known

the

as

omission

we now proceed

On

Kuvan

this

to

attempt, namely, to

skip Perovski's last exploit

on

we have had

of the Syr-Daria,

Kuvan-Daria.

This

to rectify.

westward of Fort

channel,

Perovski, and 85 versts to the South-west of the

Russian Port No.

2,

stood the Khivan Port of Hodja-

This was the most distant

Nias, erected in 1846. fortified point

and served

But

importance to It

this

Khiva

frontier of Khiva,

against the Russians

as a barrier

Kokanians.

respects.

on the Northern

and

point was not of such great in

political as

was passed by

all

in

financial

the Bokharian cara-

vans proceeding to and from Russia, and considerable transit dues were annually collected at

it

by

the Khivan Government.

Por

as

from the neighboiu-ing

for

collecting tribute

Kirghizes,

men fort

a

garrison

was maintained was

ordnance.

whom

also

of never at

fewer than

Hodja-Nias,

provided with

Its first

this purpose, as well

several

and pieces

100 the of

governor was Hodja-Nias, after

the fort was called,

Irdjan,

his

son,

sue-

386

Travels in Central Asia.

ceeding his father in

command

of

on the death

it

of the latter.

In 1856, Irdjan, on receipt of some important message from Khiva, hastily marched thither with forty

men

The Kirghizes who camped

of his garrison.

in those parts,

and had long been

dissatisfied

with

the Khivan administration, expelled the officer in charge of the

spiked

perty,

plundered the Khivan pro-

fort,

and

left

dismounted

hacked the carriages to

guns, and

the

pieces.

The inxmediate consequence

of this event to the

Russians was an increase of robberies and larcenies

committed by the Hodja-Nias Kirghizes, who had hitherto been kept in check rities of it

the

was deemed necessary

towards taken

been

to

to

despatch a small force

Russians

the

occupy the

seized either

increasing disorders

Had

Hodja-Nias.

steps

by the Khivan autho-

To prevent

fort.

fort

not

would have

it

by the Kokanians

or

Bokha-

rians.

Great

disorder

Bokharian

prevailed

territory,

as

this

at

time in the

Khans were

several

tending for the supreme power.

Tired at

con-

last

by

these dissensions, the Khivans and Karakalpaks had, it

Avas said,

desired the

Emir

tliem under his protection.

of

Bokhara

to take

This would have com-

The Russian Claim

to

Fort Hodja-Nias.

387

plicated the relations of Russia with Bokhara,

and

frequent and serious collisions must have ensued.

Immediately southward of the small ruined

fort in

the direction of Khiva and Bokhara, stretches for several

hundred

versts an

arid

waste of sands,

which cannot be traversed by large detachments of troops, so that this uninhabited desert

was

consi-

dered to form a most convenient and safe boundary for Russia

on the side of the Bokarian and Khivan

territories.

Up

to that time

Hodja-Nias

it

was generally considered that

belonged

unconditionally

to

Khiva.

This opinion, however, was merely founded on the fact of possession, for

«pot,

when

it

from inquiries made on the

was proposed

to effect a temporary

occupation of the fort by a Russian force,

it

was

ascertained that the Kokanians never recognized as of right the occupation of

Hodja-Nias claimed

by Khiva, and had during the ten of the fort twice taken garrison.

it

years' existence

and expelled the Khivan

After the last expulsion, the Khivans

had paid the Kokan Beg quantity of cattle for

The occupation

of

Ak-Mechet a

large

permitting them to return.

of Hodja-Nias

therefore only tolerated

by the Khivans was

by the Kokanians.

The

Russians being the successors of the latter in these

388

Travels in Central Asia.

parts,

and putting aside

their other ancient rights to

the whole extent of country roamed over by the

Kirghizes of the Little Horde, were quite justified claiming the Hodja-Nias district as their own.

in

Other reasons,

from

taking

however, possession

deterred the of

this

Russians

point

for

the

present.

From

made by

the observations

sent to Hodja-Nias,

it

was ascertained that the

walls of the fort, as well as the inside of

it,

Kirghizes.

the detachment

mud

wooden dwellings

had been destroyed and burned by the

To

repair

them was

impossible, and

it

was consequently necessary to construct them anew.

The

situation of Hodja-Nias,

and the

surrounding country, afforded no taining a

garrison in

it.

The

sterility of the

facility for

fort

main-

stood in the

middle of morasses, formed by the streams of the Kuvan-Daria. at

Presh water could only be procured

a distance of two versts, and fuel was scarce.

There

M'as

likewise insufficient pastm'age,

communication with Fort Perovski all

times of the

canals

—

is

year,

rendered

on

still

—inconvenient

account

more

and the at

of the various

difficult at full

water,

so that a regular supply of provisions could not be

depended upon.

The detachment

sent for the pre-

liminary occupation of the fort turned back after

destroying the remaining works.

389

Reprisals of the Kokanians.

Perovski's active service in the

Orenburg region

terminated with this attempt.

On

his death,

successor

—drew

Katenin

—who was

up, in 1859, a

Policy

of Russia

Among

other

Memoir on

Orenburg

the

in

,"

appointed his

he deemed

things,

the

Region."

necessary to

it

take possession of the small Kokanian fortress of

order strategeticaUy to

in

Djiilek,

Perovski.

which occurred soon

"after;

but was

by the present Governor- Ge-

carried into execution neral of

Fort

This was not effected by him, owing to

death,

his

secure

Orenburg (Lieut.-General Bezac), who was

also ordered to demolish the

Kokanian

fortifications

of Yany-Kurgan, near Djulek.

A

detachment was sent

fortification of

Djulek

;

"in

and

April,

all

1861, for the

the works, together

with dwelling-houses for the garrison, were completed by the

A

month

of October of the same year.

detachment was likewise despatched to Yany-

Kurgan, which was demolished

after a

cannonade

of twenty-three hours.

The Kokanians, Yany-Kurgan, yet the Russian ghizes

forts,

in revenge for the destruction of at the

same time

commenced

pillaging

under Russian protection

of soldiers

sent against

afraid to attack

;

the Kir-

but a company

them from Port

Perovski,

390

Travels in Crntrnl Asia.

compelled them to retreat to Turkestan.

Accord-

ing to the most recent accounts, the Kokanians had

commenced of

Yany-Kurgan,

Russian

existing on the

Port No.

1,

fort in the place

The

Turkestan.

defend

to

now

forts

Fort No.

new

the erection of a

Syr-Daria are

:

and Forts Perovski and

2,

Djulek. It

cannot be said that the present condition of

the Syr-Daria line

There

is still

improving view were

much

to

all

first,

defence

against

Central

Asiatics

;

that

be done

When

it.

—

is

first

is

to

be desired.

and

in strengthening

organized, the objects in

should ser\e as a line of

that

it

the

plundering inroads

and secondly,

to

of

the

protect

the

Russian trade with the Khanats. It

must be acknowledged

that

neither of these

objects has as yet been fully attained.

The Russian

forts, as

at present constituted, are

not capable of defending the country against hostile incursions.

Although their own independence and

by

safety are guaranteed, even in case of an attack

a numerous Khivan or Kokanian force, are not strong

enough

yet

they

to prevent the musterings of

predatory hordes, to defend the Russian Kirghizes

and caravans from plunder and oppression, and check the temerity of individual marauders, by spiring fear of instant

and condign punishment.

to

in-

Insecurity of Commercial Relations.

In the intermediate space between the fort,

and the advanced Siberian

391

left

fortified

flank

points

along the Sara-Su, the independent Kirghizes can

break

easily

the

into

and

Siberian

Orenburg

Steppes, and despoil the Russian Kirghizes.

The commercial and Bokhara

by the

forts

relations of Russia with

are far

Khiva

from being rendered secure

along the Syr-Daria

All the as-

line.

sistance that they afi'ord the caravans consists in se-

curing their passage in a few shallops over the Syr-

Daria

but

;

it

is

not in their power to escort and

The ruler

defend them on the route. requires

the Bokharian caravans

of

Tashkend

to pass through

Tashkend, imposing a high rate of duty on the goods, and in case payinent

is

refused,

" extorts a

benevolence" from them with impunity.

The communication with

Syr-Daria and

the

Orenburg lines, between the fortress of Orsk and the Aralsk

fortification,

is

facilitated

by the

establish-

ment of Kirghiz post-stations, but between the Aralsk fortification

and

the

Sjr-Daria line occurs the

most barren part of the Steppe, where water only to be procured by digging. tion

of

regular

Kara-Kum

sands

conxtnunication

presents

great

is

The organizathrough obstacles,

the as

the scanty herbage in these parts will never admit

392

Travels in Central Asia.

of horses being kept at the post-stations.

may

possibly be used for this purpose,

which

of

intelligence

Camels

by means

be regularly though

will

slowly transmitted.

The

forming the

troops

with

attended times of

arrangements

commissariat

great

serious

in

country

the

garrisons

the

of

difficulty,

and

by

forts

the

are

residt

The

irregularities.

occupied

the

for

forts

at

chai"aeter

the

of

^

...

Syr-Daria

line,

sui)plying

the

even

the

does not afford any troops

simplest

to

their

own

means

with

the

way

in

Kirghizes turn their

they confine themselves

crops of millet

and barley

The land

consmuption.

sole

will not

for

be

any great extent by the Kughizes,

cultivated to until they

the

agriculture,

to raising small

local

requirements

Though

of provisions. attention

b}-

for

facilities

become convinced that they can do

so

without fear of being plundered by Khivan and

Kokanian robber bands. the pursuit of agriculture soil,

the fields

The labour attending is

very great in such a

requuing constant

considerable quantity of vegetables

irrigation.

A

grown

for

is

winter consumption in kitchen-gardens around the forts,

but they are often attacked by swarms of

locusts,

which

the fields

and

entirely

crardens.

destroy the vegetation

of

Grass forts,

is

mowed'

393

of the Commisaariat.

Difficulties

the neighbourhood of the

in

on both banks of the Syr,

for a distance of

twenty-four or twenty-five versts from the

forts.

Tracts, at present yielding grass of passable quality,

were found overgrown with reeds which had either to

be cut down

When

grew. great,

for fuel, or

the over-flooding of the Syr

a sufficient quantity of hay

forage for the horses --.water rises

"&d

burned where they

and

cattle

is

not

is

obtained

as

but when the

;

high, the meadow-lands are swamped,

the subsequent crop of hay

The

but small.

is

horses and cattle have then to be fed on corn and

other grain.

As regards the requirements they

civilians,

difficulty

buy

are

than the

supplied

soldiers, as

of the officers

with

even

and

greater

they are not able to

provisions on the spot or at regular prices.

The Russian merchants carry on a in cattle with the Kirghizes of the

profitable trade

Syr-Daria

line,

and with caravans from Khiva and Bokhara, but neglect

the

retail

shops of

those

allowed to

sell

traders

within in

the

the

forts

who

inferior quality, while the

unreasonably high, notwithstanding

tariff"

and other

The

forts.

are

goods free of duty, are often empty,

and the wares of are

trade

restrictions.

D D

a

prices

fixed

;

394

As

IVmels

in Central Asia.

there are no forests,

wood caBnot be procured

most ordinary domestic purposes, and the

for the

material used locally for building purposes

Every thing, even the most obliged

be

to

articles,

trifling

from

brought

is clay.

are

Orenburg

the

line.

The to

cost of transporting goods

the Syr-Daria line

year,

and

this increase

is

is

from Orenburg

augmenting with each

owing to three causes

to the rise in the price of cattle,

which are exclu-

used in the carriage of goods

sively

to the

difficulties

barren sands

;

attending the transit over the

and

provender in the

secondly,

;

thirdly,

from the scarcity of

Kara-Kum

sands, and particularly

on the transport road between Ports No. Perovski.

But

the increase

in addition

in the

to these

cost of transport

\

and

drawbacks, is

likewise

attributable to the carriers, who, seeing that the

Russian Government have no means of conveying supplies along the line, and between Fort No.

and Fort Perovski,

dictate their

Communication between the by Kirghiz

postillions,

ment despatches from

who fort

own

1,

terms.*

forts

is

kept up

are sent with Governto fort,

and so

* Steamors pan only proceerl up the river at

full

to the

watrr.

Difficulties

Orenbiirg

The

line.

395

of Intercommunication. road,

which

is

by

traversed

transports of goods and provisions, extends from

Port No. 1 to Fort Perovski, along the right bank of

the

Syr,

through a

When

partly barren Steppe.

inhospitable

desert,

and

the inundations of

the Syr spread to a great distance, the journey on

horseback, from the Daria,

confluence of

Kuvan-Daria, to Fort Perovski,

with the

Barges are then towed

becomes quite impossible.

up the

river

by

the Djaman-

lines,

and the boatmen engaged

pulling the barges are sometimes obliged to

up

to their knees

and even waists

in water.

in

wade This

journey, even with constant fresh relays of men,

occupies seventeen hours.

The condition respects,

of sick

is,

is

of the Syr-Daria line, in sanitary

on the whole,

not great, which

salubrity of the climate.

of local medical

is

mainly owing to the

According to the accounts

men, the immoderate use of

and raw vegetables tries,

The number

satisfactory.

is

not, as in

attended with intestinal disorders;

moreover,

heal rapidly,

fruit

most other counall

wounds,

and diseases but

rarely

assume a virulent form.

The

gadflies

and

gnats,

which abound

in such

multitudes as to become a positive plague, must

not be omitted in describing this region.

D D 2

The

396

Travels in Central Asia.

Kirghizes and Cossacks always cover their horses,

when the

riding, with

horse-cloths,

from the

this precaution is not taken, the horses

their

horned

riders,

and refuse to

lie

down The

move.

and Cossack horses,

cattle

as

to

When

and with rugs under the stomach.

tails,

under

feet

the

also

camels, which are in excellent condition in spring,

become absolutely emaciated

fi'om

the

irritation

and physical exhaustion caused by the the

and

gnats

Kirghizes,

flies,

and

who camp

die

in

stings of

the banks

along

The

scores.

the

of

Syr -D aria in summer, leave only a small quantity

and

of cattle here for agricultm'al pm'poses,

away the

On

this

rest, for

the summer, to the

accoxmt carriers

procured with

drive

Kara-Kum.

are, dvu-ing the

summer,

difficulty for transporting goods.

Russia thus occupies an almost barren extent of

country along the

Syr-Daria,

while

between

Djulek and Tort Vernoe extends the Northern part of the

Khanat

of Kokan,

beautiful climate, fertihty of

celebrated for

soil,

and

its

rich tracts

of land.

The

historical

and geographical future

of Russia

impels her farther and farther towards the South, in

spite of all

obstacles

;

and, yielding to these

Mode

liussian

of Extending Territory.

397

natural impulses, she has advanced, on one side,

from the Irtysh to the upper course of the SyrDaria, and, on the other, from

Sea of Aral

Orenburg

to the

thus incorporating within her boun-

;

daries the greater portion of the Steppes dividing

Europe from Asia Proper. Similar

extensions

Russian

of

frontier

have

always been effected in the same order, by the

same laws, and have invariably led

The pioneers

results.

of each

were the Cossacks, who

and

settlers

agriculturists,

farming stock

some

distant

Avere

;

and

and

it

to the

onward movement

by

followed

fixed

with their families and

was

in this

way

desert region, as on the

day,

that,

Russian

in

Don and

Amur and

Ural in former years, and on the Daria in the present

same

Syr-

civilization

sprang up, and Russian settlements were planted, forming germs for future colonies.

A

necessity

then arose for connecting these settlements firmly together,

and with

this

object

roads were

con-

structed, stations erected, steamers introduced, as

on the

Amur and

lines established,

Syr-Daria, and even telegraphic as at present

from the Chinese

frontier to St. Petersburg.

From Orenburg exists a

to the

Lower Syr-Daria

road along which the post

travels,

there

and by

398

Travels in Central Asia.

which goods can be conveyed

and extensive

important

in

Such

carts.

are

interests

political

concentrated on the rivers Syr and Amu-Darias, that

it

to the

is

absolutely necessary to direct attention

development and improvement of the routes Russian

to these extreme points of

more

and

territory,

especially to the establishment of a line of

Should a

telegraph.

line

from Orenburg to the

Syr-Daria ever be organized, the following antagonistic

systems are observable, on glancing at the

various telegraphic maps;

— On one

side the widely-

spread net of Russian telegraphs, connected with the whole of Europe and converging on the Sea of Aral wires,

India,

;

on the other, the network of English

extending

o^er

and terminating,

at Peshawur.

the

whole

continent

for the present

at

least,

These two extreme points of English

and Russian telegraph

lines

by the com-se

of

the

by

are separated

gap of country, the greater part of which pied

of

a

occu-

is

Amu-Daria.

This

intervening space can, of course, be cleared, particularly

by the known energy of the English

here arises the great political question

—Who

supply the existing break, Russia or England

The establishment with

India

is

at tlie

of telegraphic

present

day

;

but is

to

?

communication a

question of

Importance of the Telegraph Question.

399

primary importance both for English supremacy in India,

and particularly

for

British trade.

The

expense of such an undertaking will not prove an obstacle for lish

its realization

company

.we have seen an Eng-

;

nearly

sacrifice

a million pounds

sterhng on the Trans- Atlantic cable,

vinced that

much

again

it

if

would not

feel con-

hesitate to lay out as

there were any possibility of bringing

the scheme to a successful issue. therefore,

and

If the English,

were made acquainted with the

details

proving the feasibility of establishing telegraphic

communication with East India through Orenburg

and the Sea of organize a

would most assuredly

Aral, they

company without

loss of

ing the project, regardless of

But would such

interference

all

time for its

realiz-

difficulties.

and mediatorship on

the part of the English in regions where the influence of Russia

is still

weak, be consistent with

the dignity and political views of Russia ?

The coimtry

as far as the Syr-Daria

Aral, belongs ipso facto to

means it,

and Sea of

Russia, so that every

of communication can be freely introduced in

and a telegraph

is

lished in these parts.

occupies the

mouth

certain to

be shortly estab-

Farther Southward, Russia

of the

Amu-Daria, and Russian

steamers have already ascended this

river.

Where

400 is

Traveh

the limit to which these steamers

fined?

Burnes,

estimated is

Central Asia.

in

its

who descended

\\'ill

be con-

the Amu-Daria,

navigable length at 2000 versts.

hardly probable

It

that the Russian settlements

destined before long to be perrnanently established

on the Lower Syr-Daria that part of at its

^vill

to

never be permitted to penetrate

up stream.

farther

be confined

course, or that the steamers stationed

its

mouth

will always

A

similar prohibition Avould

be contrary to the natural order of things, and

An

M'ould indeed be practically disregarded. stance of this

is

seen on the

in-

Amur, which was

secured by treaties and government restrictions, in spite

of

all

which we have seen that Russian

settlers in the

the

Amur

Trans-Baikal region penetrated uito

country during the past hundred years,

and traded and hunted

in

it.

Judging, therefore, by historical precedents, one cannot but forsee that the occupation of the mouth of the

Amu-Daria

will necessarily

be followed by

the appropriation of the A\hole ri\er.

Government may probably not have and

-will

Avill

this in

view,

in all likelihood oppose the encroachment,

but nevertheless, sooner or pass of

The Russian

itself.

later,

Officially the

remain unchanged

;

it

will

boundary of

come

to

Russia

practically, howe\'er,

Rus-

401

Involuntary Aniwxatlon hy Russia.

emigrants

sian

ascend the river higher and

will

higher by degrees

;

they

Avill

at

open

first

inter-

course with Khiva, the nearest Khanat, and even-

make

tually

their

are afibrded

of this

way

Examples

to Bokhara.

by the Amur

and Syr-Daria.

Only the embouchures of these rivers were at

first

occupied, and strict orders given agamst advancing

up the country

in the lapse of

;

two or three

we

however, at most ten or twelve,

find Russian

stationed several hundred

posts already

military

versts above the mouths,

and the parts

In

territory.

Amur

of the

and Syr-Daria thus occupied beginning cognized as Russian

years,

be

to

a few

re-

yeai's

more, Russian settlements had not only spread along the whole course of the Amur, but had oc-

cupied posts,

Amur

source

its

;

the Ussuri, or Russian military

had encircled the whole the

to

Corea,

sea coast from the

and Russian traders com-

menced ascending the Dzungari, which same

historical

Leo, and Petcheli.

along

sequence lead them it

of events

is

;

yet this river

observed on the

it

is

held

must now be considered

more Russian than Kokanian, more necessity of possessing

river

Gulf of

Syr-Daria, of which the lower com-se alone

by Russia

by the

to the

of the

to the shores

The same order

will

for the

especially as the

whole extent of

402

Travels in Central Asia.

course

its

clearly

year after year more

is

urgently

and

felt.

The Amu-Daria

for

is,

many

reasons, of greater

importance to Russia than even the Syr-Daria.

disembogued

bed

its

at one period into the Caspian,

sea stUl remains.

to that

Some

It

and

are of

opinion that the course of the river can be again directed to

ancient bed, while others consider

its

impossible to do

so.

It can,

it

however, be positively

asserted that the existing information on this point is

very superficial and inaccurate, and the question

be

will never

satisfactorily settled, until a scientific

expedition be sent by the Government to investigate

it

in

all

its

The South-Eastern

bearings.

shores of the Sea of Aral are well adapted for unit-

ing the Syr-Daria with the Amu-Daria, and encou-

hope that the united mass of water of

rage the

may force

such two great streams the

old

bed

to the

Caspian.

of this connection will readily it is

remembered that a

of the Volga, will

their

way through

The importance

be understood when

M'ater route, in continuation

be thus created, which

will ex-

tend for 3000 versts into the interior of Asia, and that

the

extreme points of this

water-way will be slopes of the

St. Petersbiu'g

Hindoo Koosh.

uninterrupted

and the Northern

Communication between Russia and India. 403

There

an idea generally prevalent that the

is

Syr-Daria will serve as a convenient route for future

communication

vsrith

British India

but the

;

Amu-

Daria presents infinitely greater advantages in this respect.

upper course runs farther to the

Its

South than

Syr-Daria

that of the

—

in

fact,

it

almost reaches the boundaries of the EngUsh possessions,

These of

and very

tvi^o

a few

several passes,

by English

of this region

Thus we of the

which there

across

alone

but

and the greater part

little

known.

see that the occupation of the

Amu-Daria

gation of the river

are

which have been

of

travellers,

is still

Indus.

by the elevated range

rivers are divided

Hindoo Koosh,

the

visited

closely approaches the

the navi-

will inevitably lead to

by Russians

;

this

mouth

wiU require

the occupation of several points on the shores which are uninhabited,

and only nominally belong to some

barbarous rulers, and the establishments of points-

dappui

wiU eventually lead

to

occupation

the

of the whole river along either bank.

An

outcry will be raised that this

increase limits,

of

territory,

an

a further

is

Russian

extension of

which are already too

vast.

No

!

this will

be no encroachment or enlargement of Russian boiindaries,

but simply the establishment of a

404

Travels hi Central Asia.

new markets

water-way, and an opening up of

Russian trade and produce. situated on

for

These markets are

the upper course of the Amu-Daria,

whose mouth

in the possession of Russia

is

and

;

Russia cannot, and must not relinquish them favom- of England, because she

is

them by a natural water-way. rapidly advancing to them, virtually in

the navigation of the

connected with

The English

India,

to

Amu-Daria must not be

sidered as a route for the conquest of India

time to abandon such an

are

Cabul being already

With regard

their hands.

in

illusion.

But

it

;

conit

will

is

be

advantageous for Russia to meet England on the Indian frontier, to establish a direct and reciprocal trade with her, and in case such a trade be impossible, to

endeavour, at

of Indian goods

iron

to

least, to

Europe

and water-ways.

With

b}^

procure the transit

means of Russian

respect to a military

Amu-Daria may be used

expedition to India, the

for despatching a small force to

its

upper course,

not with an idea of conquest, but for making a

demonstration

enemy and points.

The

with the object of

diverting

his

alarming the

attention

close proximity of the

from other

Anglo-Indian

Em])ire to Russia in these parts need not be feared, as

it

is

no easy matter

Russia from this

(juartcr.

to

penetrate to or from

Where

Ein/lniid

and Bussia are Conterminous. 405

Since the days of Peter the Great,

and

diligently advanced,

Russia has

at great sacrifice,

the Steppes that barred her progress

;

through

she has

now

passed them, and reached the basins of two large rivers

—two important water-ways, —whose

flow through

She

tries.

and densely-populated coun-

fertile

is

sources

fully justified

seeking to be re-

in

warded here for her labours and losses extending over

hundred

a

years,

secure her frontiers that snow-capped

and

in

by pushing them forward summit

of

the Himalayas

conterminous boundary

natural

endeavouring to

of

to

—the

England and

Russia.

Erom

this

stand-point Russia can calmly look

on the consolidation and development of British

power

in India.

These considerations

lead

one to hope

that

should a line of telegraph from Europe to India ever pass through these countries,

Erom

the

lower

it

will

be entirely

course of the

Syr-

Daria, the most convenient localities for laying

down

Russian.

a line of wire to India, extend along the South-

Eastern Coast of the Sea of Aral up the Daria, and from

its

Amu-

upper sources, by one of the

roads leading to Cabul across the Hindoo Koosh.

The

distance in this direction, between the extreme

406

IVavels in Central Asia.

point at the

mouth

the

Enghsh

1260

miles.

at

of the

Peshawur,

Amu-Daria and

is

that of

about 2000 versts or

CHAPTER

XI.

Diplomatic Relations between Bvssia and Bokhara.

By

Zalesoff.

1836-1843.

Russia has always maintained amicable with Bokhara, and

its

relations

intercourse with the

Khanat

has been of long standing.

In addition to

its

political

importance, Bokhara

presented great advantages to Russia, as a large con-

sumer of Russian productions, and

as a channel

through which Russian goods might penetrate into Afghanistan and India.

The Bokharians on

side advantageously bartered their

own

their

indifferent

wares for Russian manufactures of primary necessity,

which they were unable

countries.

to procure

from other

But there was another circumstance

that assisted in cementing friendly feelings between

408

Trafcli in Central Asia.

these two countries and served to smooth difficulties

many

and disagreements.

Bokhara,

unhlce

Khiva and Kokan, did not

border on Russian territory; consequently, there was

no motive

for those

petty frontier squabbles and

depredations with which Russia was so persistently

pestered by the two last-named Khanats. later,

when

the Russians occupied the Syr, and the

empire came into close proximity of Central Asia, as

it

Avith

the

States

Bokhara remained separated from

by the

heretofore

Kum, and

Even

Avhile

desert sands of

Kyzyl-

the wandering tribes subject to

Khiva and Kokan were committing depredations Russian

on the

boundaries,

Khanat

this

still

preserved a strict neutrality.

The Bokharians, renounce their

it is

Asiatic

true, could not completely

habits

;

they

purchased

Russian prisoners through second and third hands, while their Government not infrequently sent envoys to St. Petersburgh with the sole object of receiving })resents,

and almost invariably demanded an extra

rate of duty acts,

from Russian merchants

but

all

these

although giving rise to a constant correspond-

ence, never led to a rupture.

the

;

The Russians, with

])rospect of extending their

deemed

it

politic to sacrifice a

rests for this object.

trade to Tiu-an,

few individual

inte-

—

;

409

Relations of Russia with Bokhara.

With the

extension of Russian dominion south-

wards from the

and

as the roads

were ren-

across

the Steppe,

a desire

stable character,

dered more secure

become more acquainted with the Khanat

arose to for

relations

Russia and her neighbour acquired a

betM'een

more

old

these

river Ural,

commercial and

purposes

political

frequent visits of Russian

hence the

:

and missions

officials

to

Bokhara.

The commissioners despatched

Bokhara by

to

the Russian Government during the present century

were Lieutenant Poverdovski

in

1802, who, how-

ever, did not reach his destination

an

officer

of the Bashkir

embassy under Mr. caravan under the in 1824,

in

Subhankulof, in

force,

1809

an

;

Negri in 1820; an armed

command

of Colonel Tsiolkovski

and which did not reach

Mr. Demaison

;

its

journey's end

1834 and Ensign Vitkovitch ;

in

1835.

The

following letter, addressed to the

Emir by

General Perovski, military governor of the Orenburg region, in 1836,

is

a specimen of the style of corre-

spondence conducted with Bokhara of Vitkovitch

"To

the expounder

esteemed,

after the return

:

all-perfect,

of

wisdom and

glorious

law,

and great E E

the

Emir,

—

410

Travels

Central Asia.

in

descendant of the benignant

Hakan

the centre

;

of learning, order and glory, and the disseminator

we

of happiness,

our most sincere respect

offer

May

and warmest devotion. powerful

God

"

Be

you from

shield

and

known

tempests, and

its

and grant you a long

further

it

all-high

secure you on the throne of dominion

and prosperity, evil destinies,

the

life.

to your heart, replete with

glorious qualities, that, praise be to the

Founder

of

Worlds, we abide in health and happiness. "

Rumours

of the measm-es taken

by the Russian

Government against the insolence of the Khivans have doubtless long since reached the stronghold of your

From

highly-venerated and mighty Eminence.

respect,

gloriously

to

therefore,

neighbour,

resplendent

necessary to say as follows

famous

our

consider

I

and it

:

"The Khivans have long behaved

as

enemies,

while calling themselves the friends of Russia. " Khiva, fi'om

its

insignificance

and weakness,

could of com-se do no great injury to neighbour,

but

still

it

opportunity to exhibit

took

its

its

powerful

advantage of every

insolence

and

senseless

temerity against a state that has, until the present,

ignored the stratagems and intrigues of a weak and powerless neighboiir.

1

Zm/

of Grievances at/ninsf K/ilra.

41

" Khiva, however, did not understand the

con-

descension and endurance of Russia, and instead of being penitent

have

The

and submissive, her proceedhigs

more

grovi^n

audacioiis from year to

under the

piracies on the Caspian multipHed,

connivance of the Khivan ruler,

of Russian

Khiva have greatly increased, and they Russian traders dare not

are treated barbarously.

now appear

even

shared the

The number

plunder with the pirates. prisoners in

who

year.

at

Khiva, as they are not received

with the customary salaam and greeting, but with the noose, knife, and bonds of slavery.

commenced our

subjects,

from

and

traverse the Steppe

the Kaisaks,

who have that

by

all

all

at will.

it

who

traders

When

subjects

the

up

Khans

over

taking into

of Khiva

have

to the present time not

the advantages of freedom, but also profited the rights

and

trading and departing at tion,

Russian

long been subject to Russia,

enjoyed in Russia even only

the Kaisaks,

she has set some

;

and persecutes them consideration

tribute from

collect

to

Khiva has

privileges of free all

traders,

times without molesta-

must be admitted that the proceedings

of the Khivans justly merit chastisement. "

The Emperor has now

resolved to detain

all

the

Khivans in Russia, together with their property, E E 2

412 and

Travels in Central Asin.

to inform the ruler of

Khiva that not

person will be liberated until slavery be set free

a single

now

in

by the Khi\'an Government, and

have promised to amend

shall

it

all

Russians

conduct

its

for

the futm'e.

"The

orders of the

fulfilled,

and

Emperor have been

I ha^'e already

strictly

informed the ruler of

Khiva of what had transpired.

It

depends now on

himself to arrange matters amicably, or bring confusion on his head.

" In acquainting

person of

am

this, I

friendship,

and

your mighty and

illustrious

convinced that the columns of

pillars of

mutual good-feeling

be-

tween the Russian Government and that of Bokhara will

continue as formerly, fixed and inomovable

;

the

Government of Bokhara will doubtless never give Russia similar cause for discontent. assured that

Bokhara,

if

I

am

likewise

there be any Russian prisoners at

or such as have escaped

from Khiva,

yom' exalted Mightiness will give immediate orders their

for

release

and transmission

to their

o^vn

coTintry.

"

To

all this I

have the pleasure to add, what

will

probably be pleasing intelligence to your Highness, that

your envoy through

my

medintion has

been favoured with a reception by His Imperial

.

Bok/iarim Embassy 0/

]

413

83G

Majesty, and that Bokharian merchants, your subjects,

had the

Emperor on

felicity

of being presented to the

his passage

whilst the Khivans,

through Nijni-Novgorod,

who were

time, were not granted the

by

of the

chief of

who

did not disregard these

from 1836 to 1843, Russia was

Russian agents were

Bokhara dm'ing is

in

their turn despatched to

this period.

to the diplomatic

years that

visited

and two

three of the Emir's representatives,

It

the

region, for conciliating the friendship of

the ruler of Bokhara,

advances;

same

same honom-."

Such was the language Orenburg

there at the

relations

we would now draw

of these

six

attention.

In July, 1836, the Karaul-Begi, Kurban-Beg-

Ashurbek, arrived at the quality of Bokharian suite

of fifteen'

(horses) as

gifts

fortress

envoy,

of Orsk, in the

accompanied by a

men, and with four arghamaks for the Imperial Court.

On

the

occasion of their arrival. General Perovski wrote to

the Russian Minister for Foreign Affairs. office of

guards,

The

Karaul-Begi, signifying chief of the gateis

not of importance, though each gate in

Bokhara has a separate Karaul-Begi.

ment made by the Kush-Begi

The

state-

in Vitkevitch's report,

Ill'

Trac('t>i

Central, .A,la.

III

should be borne in mind, which that the Bokharian it

to the effect

is

Government does not consider

men

necessary to select

of high position as en-

voys to Russia, and even vaunts

on conferring

itself

that dignity on persons of low degree.

But notwithstanding

this

recom-

unfavourable

mendation, the Karaul-Begi was courteously treated,

and obtained permission burg with a

suite of

to proceed to St. Peters-

persons

foiu'

the

;

horses

were ordered to be distributed among the breeding stables (horse farms) of the

On

Orenburg

region.

reaching the capital, the envoy presented a

letter to

Emperor from the Emir, and

the

from the Kush-Begi to the Minister

others

for Foreign

Affairs,

and

to the Director of the Asiatic depart-

ment.

The

object of this mission,-^in addition to

its

and

being cliarged

A\ith

assurances of friendship,

wishes on the part of the Emir

to express the

and

that the commercial

political relations of the

—was to lay

two countries should be consolidated,the follo\ving

Government lately

sent

:

circumstances

before the

That the English

1st.

agents

\\'ith

had

again

from India to Bokhara, who

were tiying to conclude a treaty Bokharians

Russian

for supplying the

English goods on advantageous

terms for the former

;

and, 2nd. That the ruler of

Russian Mission

to

Bokhara.

415

threatened by Runjeet-Sing, had likewise

Cabul,

despatched a special agent to the

Khan

of

Bok-

hara, with proposals for forming a defensive alliance

common

against their

enemies.

The envoy returned

to

Orenburg on the 28th of

March, and took back an Imperial

to the

letter

Emir, and also one from the Vice- Chancellor to

The mission

the Kush-Begi.

left

Orenburg on the

24th of August.

As no

special benefit

missions,

similar

while

their entertainment were

Government resolved quent

visits

was

to be

the

expenses

derived from

attending

considerable, the Russian

to put a stop to the too fre-

of their neighbom's, by delicate hints,

and Count Nesselrode,

in his letter to the

Kush-

Begi, pointing out the great distance of the capital

empire from

of the

quested that in

all

Asiatic

its

who

to the military governor

possessed the confidence of the

Emperor; the Bokharians, however, did not inclined to understand

Two

years

when

in

since the departure

August, 1838, another

envoy appeared before the cordon of the of

Orsk

;

this

feel

su.g\v finesse.

had not elapsed

of the Karaul-Begi,

re-

urgent matters, the Bokharian

Government should apply of Orenburg,

boundaries,

fortress

messenger was Balta-Kuli-Beg-Rah-

;

416

Travida in Central ^iaia.

met-bek,

who had

already visited Russia in 1830,

He

representative of Bokhara.

as

of an autograph letter from the

bearer the

was now the

Emperor,

despatches

Emir

to

from his ministers to

Nesselrode, Perovski and others, and presents for elephant, arghamaks

the Court, consisting of an

and Cashmere shawls, and furthermore three Russian prisoners

with him for liberation

was composed of twenty men.

his retinue

Two

brought

§ilver roubles a

day, or about six shillings,

were allowed him by the Russian authorities his

subsistence

;

five

of

the

memliers of his suite received

important

copecks a day,

and sixpence, and the others twenty-five

or one

copecks, or ninepence. received,

and allowed

Balta-Kuli-Beg was well to

appear at Court.

cording to Perovski, he avus a rmderstanding. ject of the

Emir

more fifty

for

What

man

Ac-

of very limited

could possibly be the ob-

appearance of this

new envoy

of the

In the absence of the written message of

?

the ruler of Bokhara, ^ve must endeavour to arrive at

it

from the Emperor's

and from the Reis,

letters of

letter written in reply,

Count Nessehode

to Ishan-

head dignitary of Bokhara, and to the envoy

himself.

In

them we

find the

same expressions

of

thanks for the prolestatious of friendship on the

417

Avaricious Aims of BohlMrian Embassies.

part of the Bokharians, the same promises to en-

courage the trade between the two countries, and the same accompaniments of presents, as

The only novel

of friendship.

pears to be

proofs

them

feature in

ap-

a request on the part of the avaricious

Emir, for the Russian Government to send him a

mining engineer

officer, to

explore his territory for

This want might have

gold and precious stones.

been made known without despatching a special embassy.

On

the 27th of October, Balta-Kuli-Bek returned

own country from Orenburg,

his

to

him many

tangiljle

marks of

taking with

favour, in the shape

of brocade, cloth, crystal, &c.

The

cost of maintenance

and

travelling expenses

of this last guest, with the presents of

money

to

him and

his suite, exclusive of that of his residence

at

Petersburg,

St.

amounted

roubles, the transmission

Petersburg

we add the

costing

to

9000

of the elephant to

3000 more.

shall

find

that

St.

If to this total

the value of the presents for the

Embassy, we

silver

Emir

to

Nusseer-UUa's

renewal of assurances of friendship were rather high-priced. It

was

at

all

events apparent that the constant

despatching of missions served as a novel and ex-

418

Travels in Central Aula.

ceedingly

profitable

Eminence

sacrificed nothing

and

speculation,

which

in

his

but a few elephants

horses, the travelling expenses of the envoy to

the frontier being almost invariably defrayed by the merchants whose caravans they happened to

accompany.

The Emir's

request, however,

was complied

with,

and by order of the Emperor an expedition was organized in April, 1S39, under the direction of

Captain Kovale\'ski of the mining Engineers, who

was

accompanied

by

Captain

interpreter,

a head-miner, tAvo

Cossacks.

Kovale\'ski

letter of

was

recommendation

Herrngros,

viewers,

an

and four

also furnished with a

to Ishan-Reis, a notifica-

tion having been previously gi^'cn of his

departure

to Balta-Kuli-Beg.

Kovalevski was instructed by the chief of the

mining department

to

collect information

ing the geological formation of the its

of

soil of

respect-

Bokhara,

mineral wealth, trade hi precious metals, method

manufacturing

\iy the Muiister of

the Khorassan

steel,

frc.

&c.

Trade and ^Manufactm'cs, he was

charged to direct his attention to the Asiatic trade generally,

and the Russian

Mhiister

of

Foreign

Aff'airs

gave him special written instructions,

which,

among

in

other things, he was instructed to

9

Mining Expedition.

Instructions to the

41

endeavour to obtain a diminution of the duties im-

posed on Russian traders, to ascertain the opinion

Government

Bokharian

of the

on the

subject

of permanently establishing a Russian Consul at

Bokhara,

to

gather

regarding

information

the

quantity, quahty, and value of English merchandize,

and the competition they present ductions soners

the

to Russian

to obtain the liberation

;

of Russian pri-

to form an estimate, while on the

;

extending

of

possibility

Russian

Afghanistan, and other countries on the the

Amu, and

to

finally

collect

topographical data relating to countries adjacent to

Kovalevski

left

it

pro-

spot,

of

trade to

left

bank of

statistical

and

Bokhara, and the

on the South.

Orenburg

vi^ith

the

Bokharian

envoy, and proceeding through Bish-Tamak, across the

Emba and Mugodjar

mountains, reached the

Great Barsuki Sands by the middle of November.

Almost

at the very outset of the expedition,

it

encountered opposition from evil-disposed Kirghiz bands,

who were

irritated

by

the

movement

of

General Perovski's column across the Steppe about this time.

The dangers

further increased

who had instigate

by meeting an

been sent the

of the caravan were

by the

Kirghizes

Khan

official

still

from Khiva,

of that country, to

against

the

Russians.

420

Traoeh

Menaces were added

Central

in

Asua.

to other insults.

The Khivan

agent insisted that the caravan should cross the

and proceed through the Khivan

Syr,

told the Russian

that they were his pri-

officers

and ordered a watch

soners,

Kovalevski

caravan,

Russian 21

— 22

Russian

and sought

Owing

Dming

November,

half-dressed,

November,

hi

a

Fort,

severe snow-storm,

the

luggage, and

and hastened

to

which they reached on the 24th thus 300 versts (or

l)y

80

Kovalevski reached

and were taken care

until the arrival of a

head

night

nearest

2-| days.

in safety,

of ^\d^ich

the

the

the

All the things abandoned

Bokhara

from

of

the

their horses

—performing

miles English) in

in

their

to these cir-

secretly

abandoning their

mounted

Chush-Kakul

fled

protection

fortification.

ofl&cers,

be placed over

to

tents during the night-halts.

cmnstances,

He

fortress.

new Russian

of there

mission, to the

they were subsequently del^^'ered

;

and

the officers of Kovalevski's expedition returned to the Russian

frontier

ment

middle of March.

in the

line

^vith Perovski's

detach-

Thus ended

this

imsuccessful midertaking, Avhich cost the Govern-

ment 2700 ducats independent

of travelling ex-

penses.

The despatch

engineers

Bokhara

A\'as

of

mining

])ostponed imtil

a

to

more favourable

421

British Political Complications in 1840.

opportunity.

But

did not cease. not

the

men

still

the speculation in embassies

The Emir and

his Ministers

were

profitable

and

from

to abstain

a

easy stroke of diplomacy, but they were likewise

compelled by other circumstances to open negotiations with

Russia.

It

was

this

therefore that

caused the appearance of another Bokharian envoy, KuUi-Bi-Mulla

Mukin-Beg Mahommed-Seid,

at

Orenburg on the IBth of August, 1840, with a suit of thirty-nine persons

ghamaks

and the

inevitable

ar-

for the Imperial Court.

The Russian Government had by this time become well ties of

acquainted the

with

Emir and his

the speculative Ministers,

proclivi-

and the estimable

Mukin-Beg might possibly not have had the good fortune of seeing St. Petersburg, had not events in

Central

Asia about this time

relations

Russia

between

English were

at

that

in Afghanistan on

and

called

for

closer

Bokhara.

The

time playing the comedy

which the curtain dropped so

tragically.

The proceedings

of

the

English placed

both

themselves and the Russians in a curious predica-

ment.

On one

side exaggerated

rumours of Russian

preparations on a large scale for a

war

in Turan,

and of the movement of her troops towards Khiva,

;

422

Trai'ch in Ceiiirnl Asia.

spread through Europe, while on the other, England hiding her real intentions

under the pretext of

espousing the cause of the worthless and vicious

Shoojah-Ul-Mulh, triumphantly marched an army of eighteen thousand

Kandahar

men through Hyderabad and

to Cahul, and, calculating

by these means the advance

on anticipating

of the Russians on

Afghanistan, stationed their forces at the very gates of India.

It will fall to

the share of the future historian of

Perovski's expedition to

it

to

Mukin-Beg

to recount the

say here that during the mission of

the Baraksi dynasty

had already

and that Dost-Mahomed, Khan of Cabul, able

in-

between these two countries

teresting relations suffice

Khiva

representative,

was a

fugitive in

failed,

its

most

Bokhara.

The adxanced English troops had appeared Bamian and movements

Sigan,

to the

and rumours were

rife

Amu-Daria, and farther

to

at

of their

Samar-

cand.

"All the members of the English Government," says

an historian

Cabul, " diu-ing India,

of

the

English expedition to

Lord Auckland's administration

of

were particularly apprehensive of the Rus-

Rumours of a Russian AUmnci^ with

Cabul.

423

sians; they daily expected a Russian advance to

Hindustan, apprehensions that rose to a ridiculous panic on receipt of the intelligence of the Russian

Even Burnes was informed

expedition to Khiva.

by one

agents that the Russians had con-

of his

quered Khiva

and were

On

marches to Bokhara. reported that

proceeding

the ruler

by forced

another occasion

of

Bokhara

was

it

had

con-

cluded an offensive and defensive alliance with the

Emperor

and that

of Russia,

their united forces

were marching to Balkh." * These rumours and apprehensions induced the English, independent of their

march on Cabul,

to

have recourse to other measui'es for counteracting the imaginary machinations of Russia, and with this object their diplomatic

Captains Abbot

Tiuan. their

parts

way

to

agents appeared in the

and

Shakespere made

Khiva, and unsuccessfully

of mediators

in

country and Russia

filled

the dispute between

the that

and the enterprising ConoUy

;

penetrated into Kokan, while Bokhara was visited

by Colonel Stoddart, whose appearance the Bokharians

expected

to

be followed by an

English

force.

* "Afghanistan and

tlie

Eixglish in 1841-42."

—Nearaann.

-1'

24

It

TrnvelH in Central Asia.

was

natural,

Emir should

the fate,

under such circumstances, that

seriously reflect on his probable

and despatch an embassy, not from motives

The agent chosen

of cupidity alone, to Russia.

proceed to the court of

most

the

St.

was shown

similar care

Petersburg was one of

persons

influential

to

of Bokhara,

and

in the selection of his suite;

besides the two sons of the envoy, different diplo-

matic

officials,

musicians sented a or horses, gifts to

The

two

pages,

accompanied six

letter,

a

Alukin

it.

shawls,

runner, -

and

four

Beg

pre-

and two arghamaks,

from the Emir to the Emperor, besides

the different Russian authorities. visible object

of the

embassy was

to

com-

plain against the treacherous acts of Khiva, to obtain protection for the

Bokharian merchants, and

permission for Bokharian

pilgrims to pass through

Russia to Mecca.

The envoy

arrived at St. Petersburg on the 30th

of October, with a suite of seven Bokharians.

hibiting great distress of mind,

journey and on his arrival at of his musicians,

Ex-

both dm'ing the

the capital, for want

who had been left behind

at Oren-

burg, he prevailed on the Russian Government to

have two of his that

it

artists

forwarded to him, saying

was the wish of the Emir that they should

see St. Pftei'sburg.

425

Death of Mukin-Beg.

On

the 16th of February,

Mukin-Beg proceeded Old

on his way back, but did not reach Orenburg. the

age,

mode

fatiguing journey, and

his

of hviag, told on his health,

way when he

ready giving

obstinately refused

Moscow

medicine,

By

the

which was

and

it

al-

He

Petersburg.

that he consented to take

with him. strength

left St.

immoderate

was only

a medical

at

man

time he reached Nijni his

was quite exhausted, and he

died

of

dropsy of the chest on the 11th of March, in spite

The sons were allowed

of aU medical assistance. to transport the

body

to Bokhara,

and

the

ex-

penses of embalming were defrayed by the Russian

Government. effects

An

inventory of the deceased envoy's

was drawn up, and they were subsequently

brought to Bokhara on the occasion of Major Butenef's mission.

The imperial St.

letters

Petersburg,

Butenef

and those

delivery

for

delivered to the envoy at

to

the

assurances of goodwill, and

gather from

them

alone

entrusted

it

to

Major

Emir, only contain

would be

difficult to

the real object of Mukinpartly revealed

by

the note on the subject of his mission, delivered

by

Beg's

visit.

Fortunately, this

is

the envoy to General Gentz and Count Nesselrode.

We

shall not

presume

to

criticise these

documents

426

Travels in Central Asia.

We

in detail.

can only say that the Russian Go-

vernment found

embassy

it

to Bokhara,

necessary

despatch

to

composed according

Emu-'s former request, of mining

Major Butenef, receiving

at the

diplomatic instructions, in

officers,

an

to the

the chief,

same tune separate

addition

to

his

othci-

commissions.

The despatch vi^as

of agents to

Khiva and Bokhara

decided on during Mukin-Beg's stay at

Petersburg, and

besides receiving

ducats were assigned to

10,290

defray their expenses.

St.

Before Butenef s departure,

verbal

and being

directions,

al-

lowed to make himself acquainted with the docu-

ments relating to Central Asia,

the Foreign de-

in

partment, he was furnished with written instructions

by the Mining, ments.

Foreign

The

Industrial,

instructions

Affairs,

after

and Foreign departof

mentioning

mission to Khiva, and stating that sent to

Bokhara

in

Minister

the

Kovalevski's

the

agent was

compliance with the

tions of the Emir, with the object

for

solicita-

of exploring the

mineral resources of the country, go on as follows

—

"

You

are,

of positive

Kahnat

of

:

moreover, charged with the collection

and

reliable information

concerning the

Bokhara and neighbouring

and with the arrangement of terms,

countries,

for regulating

Diplomatic

nil dothe7-

Instructions of M. Butenef.

427

the mutual relations between Bokhara and Russia."

In order to give greater weight to the negotiations

between Butenef and

Nusseer-UUa,

sidered expedient to give

envoy, and to furnish

the

him

it

was con-

agent the

full

title

of

power from the

Russian Government. The geological investigations

were to be conducted by the junior Butenefs

Butenef should observe the

Bokhara by the recent events structions proceeded to say this information

means

officer,

under

Proposing also that

superintendence.

:

eflFect

produced on

in Afghanistan, the in-

—

"

wiU enable you

for strengthening the

The

acquisition of

to suggest the best

political influence

of

Russia, and for developing Russian trade in this

part of Asia."

The

instructions

programme

then sketch out an extensive

for gathering information regarding the

Bokharian trade, and pointed out that Russia had always_been friendly disposed to Bokhara, and had protected her merchants, but that the Bokharians

had

often in return

shown great ingratitude by op-

pressing' her traders, slighting her envoys, &c. &c.

Butenef

is

requested to explain to the

his real interests

Khan

that

would be furthered by maintaining

friendly relations with Russia,

and

to

inspire

rF2

him

—

428

Travels in Central Asia.

with confidence in

Government.

was

to

the

of

sincerity

the Russian

In assiu-ance of the latter the agent

draw the Khan's attention

to the disinter-

ested policy of Russia with regard to other

metan

Maho-

countries, for instance the assistance she

had

given to Tm^key and Persia, against the rebellious

Pasha of Egypt

in

the

Mahomet-Shah on the which was

case,

first

in seating

throne, in the second

;

and

evidenced by her generous forgive-

also

when

ness of the misdeeds of Alla-Kul,

complied

and

the latter

with the principal demands of Russia.

" All these and similar instructions,

"

made

to the

suggestions," said the

Khan

of Bokhara ^vith

proper discretion and adduced as your arguments, will assuredly convince

Russian

mediation and

him of

of the advantage of

honesty of

the

our

policy."

Then passing to

to the negotiations,

the agent

is

endeavour to procm'e the consent of the Khan

to the following terms 1.

:

Neither openly nor secretly to show hostility

against Russia. 2.

Not

to

detain

in

slavery or

obtain Russian prisoners, and

personal safety and suliject witliin

property

Bokharian

to of

tci-ritor\-.

by any means guarantee

every

the

Russian

—

429

Proposed Terms of Treaiy.

3.

In the event of the death of a Russian subject

in Bokhara, his property

the Crown, but returned

is

not to be seized by the

intact to

Russian

authorities at the frontier. 4.

To

prohibit Bokharians

from robbing and

imposing arbitrary laws on Russians, and to immediate punishment on those

inflict

guilty of such

offiences. 5.

To impose

a single

duty on Russian goods

brought to Bokhara, which duty

not to exceed

is

5 per cent, of their real value. 6.

That Russian traders should not be annoyed

and oppressed within the dominions

of Bokhara,

and that they should be afforded the same protection as Bokharians enjoy in Russia.

In return for

these

stipulations,

agent was to guarantee in the

Government 1.

name

the

Russian

of the Russian

:

Safety of person and property to Bokharian

subjects

within

the

boundaries

of the

Russian

Empire. 2.

The extension

of

the

same

privileges

to

Bokharians as are enjoyed by other Asiatics trading to Russia. 3.

The

right of requiring the

punishment of

Kirghizes and Turkmens subject to Russia, in case

they pillaged Bokharian caravans.

430 4.

to

Travels in Central Asia.

Pemaission to Bokharian pilgrims proceeding

Mecca, to pass through Russian territory

on

condition that they conform to the existing pohce regulations in Russia.

No

difficulty

was anticipated

obtaining the

in

Emir's consent to the clauses relating to the safety

and property

of the lives

of Russian subjects,

but

the minister was not so sure on the subject of the

decrease of duties, though the agent

is dii'ected

in

Khan

to

his instructions to gain the adhesion of the this point tariff

by quoting Persia and Turkey where the

on

Russian

was

goods

by

regulated

treaties.

The

instructions

generally

du'cct

the agent to

conduct the negotiations with proper dignity, firmness and discretion.

Should the Khan, however, refuse to accede the proposed terms, the agent was not to

acquainting ditions

him

to

fail in

that the fulfilment of these con-

was guaranteed by the

lives

and property

of

the Bokharians existing Russia. Finally,

Butenef

directed

Avas

to

obtahi

Khan's assent to the temporary presence

at first

of a Russian official at Bokhara, so that the

might afteiwards, under more stances,

lie

re|)laced

by

a

the

same

favoiu-able circum-

permanent agent, and

to

Umime

of the Envoy s Instructions.

431

use every exertion to obtain the liberation of

Russian

slaves

the

w^ithin

dominions

of

all

the

Khan. If matters

went smoothly, the mission was to

about a year at Bokhara, and to return

remain

with a caravan in the following spring event

;

and

an unfavourable reception,

of

but in the if

all

accommodation proved unsuccessful,

attempts at

the agent was to return to Russia without entering into

any negotiations.

From plicated

the above

wiU be observed how com-

it

were the instructions given to Butenef;

besides that they touched on such delicate points as

remission of

duties,

slaves, the

liberation of

settlement of which under the ignorant prejudices

and customs of the

Asiatics,

would

at first sight

appear impossible, and could only be carried out by the pressure in

of

any extraordinary circumstances

which Bokhara might find "

We

" that

hope," said the Chancellor to the Vizier,

M. Butenef

as are the

in like

wishes

herself placed.

will

be as well received by you,

Bokharian envoys

manner be allowed to

do so."

And

in

Russia, and will

to depart

whenever he

then again

:

" It

has

reached our knowledge that the Emir had intended to have despatched the

Englishman Stoddart, who

432 is

Travels in Central Asia.

now among

Envoy Mukin-Beg

you, with your

by the appre-

to Russia, but was deterred alone

hension of an attack by the Khivans. the

to

existing

mutual

between

relations

and Great

States of Russia

According the

Britain, this intention

on the part of the Emir was most pleasing to

us.

Now

we

fomier obstacle no longer

the

as

hope that the

entertain the

The best way

fulfilled.

Englishman

to Russia

make

With

Emir will be

forwarding the said

of

wiU be

a caravan to Orenburg, will

will of the

exists,

to send

him on with

where the Russian governor

further arrangements."

all

regard to

chcumstance,

latter

this

it

must be observed that the English Government had applied

several times to Russia, to secm-e her

CO operation

procm'ing

in

the

liberation of the

unfortunate Stoddart.

Information ha\ing been received a short time before

departure

the

Bokhara,

that

advantage

of the

Stoddart

refused to

take

an opportunity for proceeding

of

Russia, not wishing to intercession

Russian mission to

had

owe

his

any foreign

of

to

liberation to the

government.

Lord

Palmcrston again addressed himself to the Russian

ambassador Russian

in

London,

efforts in

soliciting

the renewal of

behalf of the English agent.

Attempt

It

is

to liberate

Mukin-Beg's

evident from

Khiva did

her best

to

Russian Government on

433

Colonel Stoddart.

The

Stoddart.

rescue

its

that

notes,

part could not remain

indifferent to the fate of the unfortunate prisoner,

towards England,

both from a friendly feeling as

well

from other reasons, and the extract

as

from the

cited

Chancellor's

lively interest in the matter.

proves

letter

Butenef was besides

commissioned persistently to demand

and to despatch him

liberation,

the

first

the

of

to

Stoddart's

Russia by

In forwarding to Perovski

opportunity.

letters

her

the Marquis

Clanricarde for

of

Stoddart, which were to be delivered to the latter

by Butenef, the Chancellor wrote tions given

by the

late

:

"

The explana-

Bokharian envoy, lead us to

hope that Nusseer-UUa

will not oppose Stoddart's

departure for Russia, and Lord Clanricarde's letter will

probably induce this

of misplaced vanity,

officer to

and to

waive his feelings

seize the present oppor-

tunity for obtaining his release.

I would, therefore,

request you to do everything in yom' power, in case Stoddart should reach the

securing

him

to furnish

proceed tion."

a friendly reception,

him with means

to

Orenburg

St.

and

line, for

desire

for enabling

Petersburg

without

you

him

to

interrup-

Travels in Cenfrnl Asia.

4t54

The

Russian

Bogoslovski,

Ministry

two

the Ural also

;

consisted

mining

the

M.

;

Foreign

for

Kostromitinof ;

of

Lehmann

naturahst

miners

mission

engineers

Khanykof,

Aifairs

Captain

of

the

;

the

;

from

interpreter

the topographer Yakovlef;

;

of animals

stuifers

and

five

Kirghizes

;

;

the

three

ten Cossacks of

was

mission

the

accompanied by the children and

of the

suite

deceased Mukin-Beg.* The gold pieces supplied to the

members

of the mission were

secreted in their

sword cases or

directed to be

in leathern belts,

so as not to excite the cupidity of the Bokharians

who would examine transported by

the luggage, which was to be

fifty five

camels.

Lieutenant-Colonel Blaramberg, at the head of

a

detachment of 400 Ural Cossacks, was to escort the mission to the river Syr,

and 17,000

silver

roubles were assigned towards the maintenance of these

troops.

Returning again to the

instructions with which

w as charged, Pcrovski

the head of the mission

recommended

that a reduc-

tion of the duties on Russian goods to sli^uld

political

be strenuously insisted on,

2\ per

cent.

and that the

agent, Avhen speaking about the yearly visit of a * For ducalb,

tlie

itc.

expenses of

the

journey

Butouef

received

4930

Departure of the Mission.

Russian vanity

him of

official

435

Bokhara, should work on the

to

and pride of the Emir, by pointing out

to

that such persons are stationed at the courts

all

independent

With regard tion at

rulers.

to Stoddart,

rumours of

his execu-

Bokhara having reached Orenburg, Perovski

suggests

to

Butenef, in the event of the

report

being correct, that he should urge on the Emir the propriety of communicating the letter to the

circumstance by

Emperor, through the Kush-Begi.

The mission

Orenburg

left

and under protection

in the

month

of

May,

of Blaramberg's detachment,

proceeded through the settlement of Bish-Tamak, the Morgodjar

Syr

at

hills,

and reached the

Mailibash on the 18th of July.

parting with the escort,

it

large boat sent from the

ferry over the

On the

crossed the river in a

Khivan

fortress,

stands on the site of the former Djanket arrived at the

Kuvan

river,

22nd,

which

fort,

and

from whence Butenef

despatched a letter to the Kush-Begi, informing

him

of the arrival of the mission.

Leaving the mission now across the

Kyzyl-Kum

reader with

the

to

^^end

its

way

waste, let us acquaint the

character

of the

Emir and

his

principal ministers.

The Emir, Nusseer-Ula, Bogadur-Khan, belonged

436

Travels in Central Asia.

of persons

to that class

pliancy

all

Asiatic

deceiving

rulers.

all

the

He

was

and proud, though when forced

by circumstances, could part,

a remarkable

was combined with

of intellect

qualities inherent in

revengeful, sensual,

whom

in

the

skilfully play

a

humble

most experienced European

diplomatist.

His conduct

towards Hakim-Bai,

former

the

Kush-Begi, and then towards Stoddart, resembled a cat playing with a mouse.

of the Russian

bad treatment to the

the

Khan

rival

flattery

Government, and the subsequent of Butenef's mission, his overtures

of

Kokan, while he was supporting

claimant to

those

characterize the domestic

Bokharian subjects with

AMthout giving

at

dominions,

plainly

and foreign policy

Emir, ^vho for a period of his

His constant

thirt}'-four years ruled a

length

Nusscer-UUa, the interesting

of the

rod of the

iron.

biography

details of

be found in many works, we think quote here some observations

it

which

of

are to

necessary to

made by

Butenef's

contemporaries, respecting the Emir, in order to see

what were the opinions entertained of

ruler

this

between the years 1830-40.

This

is

what the Russian

visited Bokliiua in

traveller, Vitkevitch,

1S35, writes of

who

him: — "The

Bokhara

state of

who

present Batyr-Khan,

is

always simply called

the Emir, or ruler, has delegated

man

an old

sovereign power

all

The Kush-Begi Hakim-Bai,

to the Kush-Begi. is

437

in 1,840.

of great subtlety, covetous in the

extreme, and possessing great wealth; fact,

being, in

the richest Bokharian, and even richer than

He

the Khan.

any matter to reach

will not allow

the Khan, and entirely acts as

Khan can no

longer oppose him.

is self-willed,

cruel,

The Khan,

the also,

to every description

and

being forcibly taken

from their parents to Gentz,

;

and given

of sensuality, boys

General

he pleases

girls

gratify his brutal passions."

another traveller,

who passed

the greater portion of his life in the collection of

information on Central Asia, gives the following

account of

affairs at

Bokhara

are dissatisfied with the

There

is

no

Vizier,

great confusion. collected

:

—

"

Emir and

and

affairs

The Bokharians his

are

Government. generally in

The Custom dues and

by two boys

;

of these, the

taxes are

Emir keeps

more than a hundred near him, acquiring new, and sending away the old not trouble himself about

up

ones. affairs,

The Emir does and

entirely to the vilest debauchery.

gives himself

In the event

of war, no one will espouse his cause;

with a small number of troops, Bokhara

so that,

may be

438

Travels in Central Asia.

easily occupied.

All his actions prove

him

to be

insane."

made during

This sketch was

summer

the

of

1840, a short time previous to the starting of the

Russian mission, and Mr. Gentz had every opportunity for forming a correct estimate of the Emir's character.

When

Butenef arrived

Bokhara, Ishan-Reis,

at

the head minister and successor of Hakim-Bai, v^as

no longer

alive.

Although Ishan had merely been

chief of the police,

received at

from the favom- he had

yet,

Com't, and

entertained to Russia,

mission must chiefly

it

he

friendly feehngs

the

was on him that the

have

depended

for success.

The Bokharians themselves lamented the death Ishan, saying that in

only

man who was

affairs

him Bokhara had capable

of

the

lost

managing

of

State

with profit and success to his country.

Thus, in consequence of the death of Ishan, the mission was obliged to carry on the negotiations

with the new Vizier, Abdul-Halik, nineteen,

Emir.

and

It

is

fosterling of the

a

youth of

male harem of the

true there was another person

who

enjoyed consideration, the Naib Abdul-Sarmed, a fugitive

from Persia, who was then forming a body

of regular troops at

Bokhara

;

but

this triple-dyed

439

Arrival of the Mission at Bokhara.

condemned

criminal,

to the gallows in Persia

and

Cabul

for

and deprived of

India,

his

ears

another act of violence, had but political affairs,

at

share

little

in

and was, moreover, on good terms

with Stoddart.

Having

Kum

safely traversed the Kyzyl-

sands,

the mission reached on the 15th of August

Karagata

wells,

where

Fuzail, an official sent

it

by Myrza

was met

from Bokhara

ten miles of the town, official;

it

;

the*

when within

was welcomed by another

and, close to Bokhara, Butenef was greeted

by one of the highest

local dignitaries, the chief

of the Kalmyks, who, in the

name

of the Emir,

invited the mission to repair at once to the palace.

The members

of the mission, having dressed them-

selves for the audience in their uniforms, in one

of the private dwellings on the way, they entered

Bokhara on the 17th of August, in the midst of a great

crowd of people.

another envoy,

the

sincere

They were here met by

who informed them,

that in proof of

by the

Emir on the

pleasure

felt

arrival of the distant travellers,

he permitted them

to ride into the palace on horseback,

—

lege," says Perovski, " only enjoyed at

Bokhara by

" a privi-

the Vizier alone."

After entering the palace in the manner gra-

440

Travels in Central Asia.

by

sanctioned

ciously

his

High Mightiness, the

agent was then ushered, through a row of Bokharian

officials,

into a large court, in Avhich, wear-

ing a white turban and robes (Khalat), and seated

on cushions, was the Emir himself.

After saluting

the Russians, he attentively surveyed them for a

long time

he then ordered the head Vizier

;

to

take the Imperial letter out of Butenef's hands, and, having repeated a short prayer, dismissed the mission.

The former palace

of the

Khan's brother Mir-

Hussein, the best residence in Bokhara, was

set

apart for the mission, and Butenef was informed that he might

make any arrangements

in

wished, for the accommodation of his party a

niunerous

Zakaria,

104

retinue

of

servants,

had been assigned

tiangis

mission for

per its

to

it

;

he

that

under Myrza

them

and that

;

month would be paid

to

the

maintenance.

In the evening of the same day, a Karaul-Begi

was sent by the Emir presents,

to

receive the

Imperial

and on the following morning, Mr. Khany-

kof delivered to the Vizier the

articles

and

letters

destined forjiim.

On

the 21st, the agent had an interview with

Abdul-Khalyk, the

Vizier, in the

Khan's garden,

Openinff of

and received presents

members

of

141

flu^ NeffottafioiiK:.

himself and

for

Soon

the mission.

was invited by the Emir

to

the other

after,

Butenef

appear weekly on

Fridays for morning prayers at the palace.

On

Emir

the 23rd, the

sent his medical

man

t(j

confer with the Russian agent on the subject of

the intended mineralogical explorations. It

was

first

commence been

arranged that the examination should

at the

altered,

Nurata

Messrs.

hill,

but

this plan

Lehmann and

having

Bogoslovski

were despatched direct to Samarcand and Karshi, for

which place they

set out

Mr. Khanykof was

tember.

on the 7th of Sep-

also allowed to follow

these gentlemen the next day to these towns with the topographer, for the purpose of giving presents to the governors.

On

the 8th of September, Butenef visited the

Naib Abdul-Samed, dart, letter,

by

at

whose house he met Stod-

and delivered to the

latter

Lord Clanricarde's

a reply to which he received and forwarded

special

messenger the same day.

In describing the reception given to the Russian mission,

Perovski

adds

:

"

Although

Lieutenant

Colonel Butenef has thus not yet had an opportunity for opening negotiations,

still

the favourable

reception which he has met with, and the ready G G

442

Travels in Central Asia.

permission accorded to the members of the mis-

and

sion for proceeding to the eastern

and lead one

of Russia,

goodvifill

known

that Nusseer-UUa values

part of Bokhara, prove

the

less

to expect a

successful termination to the negotiations."

We

see

shall

proved correct

;

how but

far Perovski's anticipations

it

is

first

examine the condition of

of

all

necessary to

at the

affairs

time of

Butenef's arrival.

He

found that the situation of Bokhara was

different

to that

Mukin-Beg

which dictated the despatch

to Russia

cesses of the

soliciting

Khan during

suc-

the previous year in

Kokan, had elated the Bokharians dition, consisting of a

The

aid.

of

numerous

;

a fresh expe-

force,

was already

being organized, and the weakness of the enemy

promised certain

victory.

Khiva was on

friendly

terms with Russia, and the presence of a Russian agent at that court counteracted the intrigues the Enghsh, and brought stand-stUl.

The

their

state of things

movements on the

to

last

ol

a

and

most dangerous quarter, that of Afghanistan, was no

less favourable.

The Emir was well acquainted

with the position of English

affairs in

Cabul, and

was, of course, informed of the plans of Akbar-

Khan, and

secretly sympatliized with him.

Man\'

:

Intervieio of the

Envoy with

of the Emir's fears were thus

policy had, at the

form.

same time, assumed a

his

;

his

different

no occasion

now

for

and

concessions

were governed by

danger being

nearly

or

fear all

had

presents he or cared

the

;

removed, there was

displaying any

received.

friend-

cupidity

warmth towards

Russia, and his cupidity was satisfied

On

and

dispelled,

In his foreign relations, Nusseer-Ulla was

thoroughly Asiatic ships

443

Col. Stoddart.

Beyond

this

with the

he thought

little.

Emu'

the ISth of September, the

Samarcand

;

he had no time

left

for conferences

for

with

the Russian agent, as he was anxious to join his troops at Djzizakh, where they were concentrated for

marching against Kokan.

In his report on this circumstance, and on the subject of Stoddart, Butenef wrote from Bokhara

" Having heard several days beforehand of the

Emir's intended departure, I did everything I could to obtain a personal interview with him,

but with-

out success. "

On the

day he

left,

the

Emir gave orders

Stoddart should be lodged with in the house occupied

cording to his

me

;

he now

by the mission, and

own words,

is,

that lives

ac-

well satisfied with his

position." G G

-1

444

IVaveh

In another

he says

arrived here on the 17 th of August,

and enjoy with

my

favour of the Emir. sent time, 1 have

theless, at

my

the

Up

.

I hear, I

particular

to the

pre-

my am

Never-

mission.

sure the

Emir

will,

request, liberate all the Russian slaves here,

Lieutenant- Colonel Stoddart,

as

clever, well-educated

my

.

subject of

from what

as well

to

subordinates

had no verbal explanations with

Emir on the

the

Central Asia.

addressed to Nikivorof at Khiva,

letter,

:— " I

m

and agreeable man, and who,

great pleasure, has

removed

by order

day to the house

this

a very

of the

Emir been

we occupy."

The Russian agent was thus confident of

suc-

ceeding ultimately in obtaining the acquiescence of the

Khan

demands

to the

quietly in the

of

Russia,

and

meantime with Stoddart.

29th of September,

lived

On

the

Mr. Khanykof returned

to

Bokhara, and was soon followed by the exploring party, AA'hich

had discovered

extended their survey as

coal formations,

far as

and

the South-Eastern

som'ces of the Zarafshan.

Nusseer-Ulla was, in the meantime, capturing

town

after

town from the

unfortiinate Medali-Khan,

Tashkend

district

obliged to

make

Kokan, and the

ruler of

and the

after

the

loss of

loss

of

the

Khodjend, was

every concession and acknowledge

—

445

Outbreak of the Afghan U'dr. himself a vassal of Bokhara.

On

7th of No-

the

vember, the victorious Emir returned to Bokhara,

and with the dawn of the new

year,

affairs

of

greater importance engaged the attention of his

On

High Mightiness.

Kokan

one hand, the

Khan

of

had, with the assistance of his brother, the

ruler of Khodjend, regained possession of the towns

wrested from him, while, on the other, a rising occurred in Cabul, to which Burnes, M'Naghten, and other Englishmen,

The

fell sacrifices.

ruler of the

Bokharian true believers, of course, could not remain

A

a passive spectator of these events. Avas already collected for

large force

marching into Kokan, and

was only detained by the

frost

;

the seizure

and

imprisonment of Stoddart, and of ConoUy who had arrived from Tashkend, displayed the Emir's sym-

pathy with the Afghans, and his complete neglect of the Russian agent plainly tion to have

showed

any dealings with the

In his report on

the events in

his

disinclina-

infidels.

Kokan and Cabul,

Butenef gives the following account of the progress of his

own

" Colonel

affairs

:

ConoUy was arrested on

in October last,

and

all

his

his arrival here

effects

were sold

in

with him was imprisoned for the second

public

;

time,

Lieutenant-Colonel

Stoddart.

The Emir,

:

446

Travels in Centred Asia.

however, before their arrest, promised

should be allowed to accompany sia.

.

me

that they

me back

Rus-

to

In a conference I had with his

.

me

Highness, he refused to deliver over to

all

Russian slaves detained here, without receiving demnification

;

but I

still

ing the point.

With

bally promised

me

hope to succeed

the in-

in gain-

respect to the duties, he ver-

that

more than

per cent,

6

would not be imposed on Russian goods

;

but, not-

withstanding this assurance, a Russian trader was lately obliged to

pay 10 per

cent.,

and the Vizier

me

here has, up to the present time, prevented

from having a personal explanation with the Emir

on the subject, and generally throws obstacles the

way when

I

in

wish to see his Highness."

Acknowledging the receipt of the 900 ducats for

" I

ransoming the

am

already preparing

Abdul-Khalyk

Emir by It

slaves, the

all

still

manner

keeps

agent again repeats

to return

me

;

the Vizier

out of sight of the

of devices."

would indeed be strange that a mere boy

of

nineteen could have influence enough to prevent the Russian envoy from seeing the later

true reasons

report the

clearly

brought to

Time

passed,

of his

Emir

;

failure

in a are

light.

and the negotiations did not

pro-

—

;

Rupture of the Negotiations. gress

at

The Emir

all.

remained

447 Bokhara

at

Kokan

busily preparing for a campaign against

members

the

of the mission were received with

cool indifference

when they appeared

every Friday with the Bokharian

the Palace

officials.

The Cabul massacre was

Spring had arrived. over, the

at

Bokharian army was put in motion in

the direction of Kokan, and

still

all

the attempts

of the Russian agent settling the terms of a treaty

before

the departure

of

the

Emir proved

fruit-

less.

"I

am

at

me

was not the Vizier who kept

Emir himself avoided

On

" that

length convinced," he writes,

all

it

back, but Lhat the

intercourse with me."

the 12th of April (N.S.), the Vizier's brother

brought presents of Khalats

for the mission,

and

in-

formed the agent that he would be sununoned by the

Emu- the next day

for final explanations.

rently the first of April (13th N. S. 1st 0.

Appa-

S.,) is

ob-

served as a day of delusions and snares even in Central Asia.

The day passed without bringing the

ex-

pected invitation to the palace, on the next, however, the following

place

"

unceremonious interview took

:

At dawn,"

Shagaul-Beg,

writes the agent, " I

who

invited

me

was roused by

to the palace to hear

—

44S

tlie

Tracclx In Cc/ifral

(jracio-m

worth of the Emir.

was stationed

^l.sia.

On

in the court-yard,

reaching

and

it,

I

after waiting

an hour, the Emir made his appearance, equipped for his journey

instructed his

me

to

what he had told

was necessary

every thing that

"

Palace gates and

me

day, but

morning

and greeting me

himself,

of the

me

sent

a

request the following

him with

demand

a note of what

at the interview.

him

him

acquaint

to

the

me

the Emir's ultimatum on the following points .

I

Strange as

I nevertheless sent

required note, requesting

I

me

or Vizier did not receive

message appeared,

this

addition

Bokhara.

left

to furnish

intended to

in

Hosh amedid," rode out

The Dostrakhanshi that

had

that he

" Dostrakhanshi " to communicate

to

with the words

me

he hurriedly tohl

;

of

:

Respecting the conclusion of a treaty with

Russia. :2.

On

3.

Permission for allowing Stoddart and ConoUy

the liberation of Russian slaves.

me

to return

with

made by

the Emir.

And duties

fourthly,

levied

on

accordance with the promises

in

on

the reduction

tlie

goods

of

of

Customs

Russian mer-

chants.

This note the Dostrakhanslii

despatched

after

—

The Emirs reply

the

Emir by

to the

special messenger,

449

Ultiiiiutuiii.

and on the morning

of the 1 9th of April the following answer from the

Emir

arrived

With if

the

:

respect to a treaty, the

Emir declared

that

Emperor signed and forwarded the same

to Bokhara,

he, the

Emir, would

also confirm

it.

The Russian

Bokhara would be sent

slaves in

back to Russia on the conclusion of the

The Customs

duties

treaty.

would be reduced

as soon

those imposed on Bok-

as the Russians decreased

harian merchants.

So

far

as

concerned the Englishmen, the Emir

declared that they had presented a letter to him, in to

which

they

said

that

their

Queen

desires

be on friendly terms with Bokhara, in conse-

quence of which he had himself written to the Queen, and on receiving an answer would despatch them both direct In

conclusion

the

to

England.

Dostrakhanshi told

order of his master, that the cere feelings of friendship

Emir

me by

entertained sin-

and respect towards the

Emperor.

Such was the is

clear that the

result of Butenef's mission.

Emir did not wish

to

come

It

to any

arrangement on the proposed points, and would

450

Travels in Central Asia.

not bind himself to anything

and

;

his

haughty answers,

communication to the agent,

their indehcate

required the adoption of decisive measures on the part of the Russian Government.

After

the

all this,

give orders

Emir had yet the assurance

to

equipping an embassy to Russia,

for

and on another occasion displayed the same unceremonious behaviour tow^ards the Russian agent.

"During the night " the

Butenef,

taking with

had

follow

to

was

— 20

April,"

vs^rites

way

back,

three old Russians, two of

whom

mission started on

it

lost their legs,

and

we hoped

serviceable

of the 19

But

us.

as they

that they

its

were perfectly un-

would be permitted

even this benevolent

frustrated, as on the

22nd

design

of April, they were

taken away from us on approaching the town of

Vardanzi."

On Syr,

the

the 23rd of May, the mission reached the

where

was received with every respect by

commander

fortress,

A

it

of

and continued

neighbouring

the its

Khivan

journey on the 26th.

Bokharian caravan, which was accompanied

by Karaul-Begi, Hudoyar, envoy to Russia,

left

the

newly appointed

Bokhara immediately

the departure of the Russian mission.

bivouacked

for

after

His caravan

two days together with the Russians

Scientific Results

451

of the Expedition.

on the banks of the Syr, but the Bokharian envoy not

did

condescend to

once

visit

Russian

the

agent.

On at

the 18th of June the mission arrived Safely

The

Orenburg.

total cost of this expedition to

the Russian Government was

6000 gold

ducats.

Although the negotiations were unsuccessful, yet great acquisitions were

the

eight

months'

The

Bokhara.

were notes

:

made

sojourn

results

to science during

of

the mission

at

obtained in this respect

a collection of geological and chmatological of events

by Mr.

description of the

Khanat

by Mr. Butenef, a diary

Lehmann, a

statistical

of Bokhara

by Khanykof, and what

is

more im-

portant, extensive surveys were made, which sup-

plied us with information completely

new on

parts

of the country of which our former knowledge was

Knowing

very confused. of the Asiatics,

it is

the suspicious

nature

a matter of surprise that Mr.

Yakovlef, the topographer, should have succeeded in

surveying

tract of

and portraying such an extensive

country so accurately as he did.

portions surveyed were the route of

The

the mission

from the Syr, across the Kuvan and Yany-Darias to

Bokhara

;

the

road

from

Bokhara

along

the Zarafshan to Samarcand, together with plans

—

;

Travels hi Central Afiia.

152

of the

towns of Samarcand and

their vichiitiea.

was

Bokhara

A map of the Bokharian dominions

constrncted by Mr. Yakovlef, and the

also

ronte of the mission back to Bish-Tamak

ment was traced on It

may

the

not be out of place to quote here the

Bokhara

results gained

same

Godunof,

to

General

from

return

his

by oxw mission were exactly

—

that

the moderate

but even

by

as those obtained

all

former missions

Bokhara since the days is,

we brought back

friendship from the Emir,

it

letter

which he wrote on

despatched to

as

his

active part

.

"The the

from

negotiations,

Perovski,

settle-

it.

words of Mr. Khanykof, who took an in

and

demands

this refusal

and a decided

of the Russian

was

in a

refusal to

Government

measure

satisfactory,

was accompanied by a permission

Bokhara, where, towards

Boris

of

assurances of

the latter

to

quit

part of our

stay A\e were apprehensi\c of sharing the fate of

the two Englishmen, on the least suspicion of the

Emir."

One would suppose from our knowledge Asiatic

character,

that

the

Khanykof betray the cause sion,

did

not

the

conduct

last

words of

of failure of

of the ]\Ir.

of the mis-

another

Russian

453

Effrontery of the Bokhnrlans.

agent, Mr.

Nikiforof at Khiva, prove that boldness

and even audacity were equally unsuccessful. Four days the

new

after Butenef's

Bokharian

arrived at the

station with a suite

In addition to

and other high

Orenburg,

Hudoyar-Klychbai,

envoy,

Rudnikof picket

of seventeen men.

Emperor,

arrival at

officers,

letters for the

he brought

a

bale of shawls and five arghamaks as presents.

As already envoy,

after

observed, the

treatment

Russian mission, was the

Asiatic;

could not

presents

efi'ace

despatch

the

of

this

experienced by

the

a piece of efirontery truly of shawls

and arghamaks

the sense of injury produced on

the Russian Government by the last acts of the

Emir.

The

Chancellor,

in

Governor of Orenburg, says

:

his

"In

insignificant rank of the envoy,

sion for proceeding to St.

letter

to

the

addition to the

Hudoyar, permis-

Petersburg cannot

be

granted him, particularly after the inattention and rudeness shewn by the Bokharian Government to-

wards Colonel Butenef, shortly before his departure

from Bokhara. Taking into consideration, however, that the

conduct of the Emir was the result of

barbarous

ignorance,

and

might

partly

be

at-

tributive to his elation on his recent successes in

Kokan, the

letters

which the envoy brings may be

454

Travels in Central Asia.

received from

him and forwarded

The presents

are

money allowance

not to

for the

to St. Petersbm-g.

and the

be accepted,

envoy and suite

to

is

be

fixed as moderately as possible.

Hudoyar letters

he bore to any person

declared that he

he

force alone;

80 cop.

40 and 15 cop. for the letters

was desired

the

Orenburg, and

at

to do so

same time returned

at the

silver,

up

give

to

would be compelled

provision money, that rate of

refused

resolutely

had been paid him

by the

at the

per diem for himself, and

for his

suite.

Another demand

having been again refused, Hudoyar

to leave Orenburg, with a notification

of the Emperor's displeasure at the disregard paid

demands.

to Butenef's

He was

of friendship alone, unsupported

told

:

" Assurances

by corresponding

cannot inspire confidence towards

actions,

the

Bokharian Government, which, to regain the good will of the

the

Emperor, should immediately

Russian prisoners

Englishmen

in

—Stoddart and ConoUy."

But while

this

was being

written,

ConoUy were no longer among the

month

of

liberate

Bokhara and the two

Stoddart and

living

;

June they were publicly beheaded

chief square of Bokhara,

and the

last

in

the

in the

Russian

pri-

soners only received their freedom in 1858, on the

455

Cessation of Diplomatic Intercourse.

vtrgent

demands of

General

the

Ignatief,

last

Russian agent sent to Bokhara.

Thus terminated the

six years' ahnost uninter-

rupted diplomatic relations between Bokhara, which were entered part,

from cupidity

and

political existence of his

into,

maintained

freeing the Russian

increasing

the

for

the

dominions, while on the

slaves,

Russian trade in Asia on a more secure thereby

and

on the Emir's

apprehensions

part of Russia, they were object of

Russia

influence

of

with the developing basis,

Russia

and in

the Turan, which belongs to her by right of civihzation.

The interchange six years,

of friendly civilities during the

with the entertainment

of envoys

and

transmission of presents, cost the Russian Govern-

ment 20,000

silver roubles,

in addition to which,

the expense of sending two agents to Bokhara was

8700

ducats.

CHAPTER Oil

Ike

Commercial viewed

The other

in

than

Prospects

of

nomad hordes

in

and the

Kirghiz-Kaisaks

Central Asia

is

and

computed

settled population at

The intercourse

five millions.

Jxia

Central

connexion with Russia.

niunber of Turkmen,

at three milUons,

XII.

more

of the inhabi-

tants of Central Asia with their neighbom's on the

other side of the mountains

is

\

ery limited, partly

on account of the impassable character of the roads,

and partly from a which prevent

their

similarity in their productions,

having anything to exchange

with each other.

From

China,

however,

there

is

some

traffic

457

state of Traih' in Central A^ia.

through Kuldja and Chuguchak, on one

Kashgar on the

which

side,

other, principally in tea, the use of

widely spread in Central Asia, as also in

is

China porcelain ware to a limited extent.

and

in bars

and

ingots,

Silver,

used to be formerly imported by

this route.

Sugar, indigo, cotton stuffs (to a small extent),

from India.

shawls are imported

and

cashmere

From

Persia the chief item of trade, in

addition to

an inconsiderable amount of European goods, conPersian slaves, captured by the Turkmen.

sists of

Of much

greater importance

is

of the Central-Asiatic countries,

with Russia.

change

for the

procure

all

tion

and

their dealings

The Kirghizes and Turkmen

engaged

clusively

the internal trade

their

in

cattle-breeding,

are ex-

and,

in ex-

produce of their flocks and herds,

manufactured

articles of

consump-

from the Russians, Kokanians, Bokharians, and

Khivans.

Since a very distant period, the Asiatics

have been supplied with

copper and hardware

iron,

of every description from Russia.

Towards the middle of the treasures

buted

last century,

amassed by Nadir-Shah had become

in Asia, gold or silver

exchange

when

for

the

distri-

was the medium of

Russian merchandize.

Subsequently,

however, as the country to the East of the Volga

H H

458

Travels in Central Asi a.

and Siberia commenced

be populated, the use of

to

the cotton fabrics of Bokhara and Khiva general, that the

demand

considerably

declined

so

Russian manufactures

for

large

a

;

became

quantity

of the

precious metals was, therefore, yearly exported into

the countries of Central Asia from Russia.

The quantity

of gold obtained in the Khanats of

Bokhara and Kokan tants of

so small that the inhabi-

is

the different Central-Asiatic States

compelled to

have

recourse

to

Russia for the

precious metals of which they stand in need.

being the case, whatever

may be

necessarily

This

the state of trade

between Russia and Central Asia, gold and

must

are

silver

form one of the items of the

Russian export trade to Central Asia.

Now

that Russia

is

endeavoiu-ing to develop her

manufacturing industry, her commercial interests have become altered.

She

is

endeavouring to find

a market for her fabrics, and although she cannot

compete with the productions of Western Europe, she can at

wares

all

over

events rely on the superiority of her

Asiatic

goods

;

and the markets

of

Central Asia being inaccessible to European goods,

must present of

a sm-er guarantee for the cons\imption

Russian manufactures, on account of Russia

being

the

only

commodities.

consumer

of

Central

Asiatic

—

statistics

—

of Exports and Imports.

459

Let us examine the present condition of the Russian trade with Central Asia after

and a

of a century

its

existence

half.

According to the Custom House returns the value of goods exported beyond the Orenburg and Siberian liaes was as follows In 1835

...

1845

Roubles

silver

„

...

:

1,850,000

(£277,500.)

2,000,000

(£300,000.)

1855

„

2,580,000

(£387,000.)

1860

„

4,900,000

(£735,000.)

Imported into Russia In 1835

..

:

;

460

Travels in Cent ml Asia.

in vahie little

goods

than one-half of the total of

less

exported;

1860 they had already

in

ceeded that figure.

In that ^ear goods of this

exclass

were exported to the amount of 2,667,000 roubles (£400,000), of which only

1

,650,000 roubles' worth

(£247,500) was sent to the Kirghiz Steppe, and

826,000 tion

The propor-

(£123,900) to Bokhara.

to the Kirghiz

goods despatched

of cotton

Steppe has remained up to the present time un-

compared

altered as

sent to Central Asia.

A

in the export of these

1S55,

value

their

while in

1860

and

this

as

it

amount

witli the total

rapid increase

of goods

observable

is

goods to Bokhara, where,

was

154,000

S.

R.,

had attained 826,000

S.

R.,

only

corresponds

increase

with

considerable falling off in the exports to

and Khiva,

it

must be supposed

manufactures sent

the cotton

in

that to

the

Kokan

a portion of

Bokhara must

have afterwards reached the neighboiu'ing Khanats.

The remaining exports according to their total to the

amount

300,000

S.

(£34,500)

lump S.

;

of

Central Asia, classed

to

\'a.lue,

400,000

R. (£45,000)

;

S.

are yufta or leather

R. (£60,000)

cloth,

hardware, 200,000

S.

sugar, 90,000 S. R. (£13,500)

R. (£10,500)

;

manufactured

227,000 R. ;

;

corn, S.

R.

(£30,000) iron,

leather,

70,000

37,000

S.

461

Alteration of Imports in 25 Years.

R. (£5,500); dye

58,000

copper,

25,000

S.

after

;

R. (£9,750);

wooden

R. (£8,700);

S.

R. (£3,750)

S.

65,000

stuffs,

chests,

which follow

and

silk

woollen goods, &c.

The

sum

relation of these several items to the total

exported has remained almost un-

of goods

during the

altered

thirty

last

Corn

years.

is

who

exclvisively disposed of to the

Kirghizes,

also large purchasers of yufta

and of a large pro-

are

portion of the cloth and hardware.

The condition

the

of

Prom 1835

remarkable.

import trade to

1860

its

more

is

value

has

increased to 333, while during the same period the exports only rose 260, per cent.

items

different

the

of

Relatively the

import trade

have

alto-

gether changed, as will appear from the following data: sia

—The value of the cotton goods brought to Rus-

from Central Asia formed, in

and

tenths,

in

less

Silk

it

six-

was only one- tenth, and

and woollen goods were never imported

Kirghiz

in

than one-twelfth.

The

any large quantities.

fabrics

and

1845 one-quarter of the general

imports; in 1855

1860

1 835, three

felt.

The

latter

consist chiefly of

total value of silk

imported in

1835 amounted

silver roubles,

while in 1860,

silver roubles

(£5250

it

in

and woollen to

35,000

reached 135,000

to £15,750).

—

463 The

Travels in Central Asid.

chief increase

duce, siipplied

was on the item of

cattle pro-

by the Kirghizes, and on

raw cotton from Bokhara. particularly sheep

—

The value

that of

of cattle

driven to the line in

Import of Speck'

463

into Central Asia.

Chuguchak, are imported from Chinese Turkestan.

The value

of the tea brought

the Kirghiz

across

Steppe in 1855, was 450,000

silver roubles,

and

only 185,000 in 1860.

IVom

itself steadily

and

and assuming an aspect particularly

fa-

with Central Asia rapidly,

appear that the Russian trade

this it will

developing

is

vourable for Russia, for whose manufactures there

an increasing

demand

in

is

Central Asia, whence she

obtains her raw produce in return. It is

very significant, however, that the value of

the imports far exceeds

that

of the exports,

and

that the proportion in favour of the import trade

constantly rising.

is

But, considering the barbarous

and poor condition of the inhabitants of Central Asia,

and

Persia,

their commercial relations

and China,

indigo, cotton stuffs, suitable commodities

with India,

from whence they

and

tea,

to offer

for which,

their

procure

having no

neighbours in

return, they are obliged to

pay

tainable from Russia,

not sm-prising, under

it

is

in specie, only ob-

such circumstances, that there should be a constant drain of Russian gold and silver to Central Asia.

An

approximate equalization of the balance of

trade cannot even be hoped tries

for, as in civilized

coun-

the wants of a people grow in proportion to their

—

464

Traceh

Ceulral J.va.

in

means, and the more barbarous they are the longer is

the time required

While the is

yearly

cattle

of greater importance to Russia,

consequence of the American

(in

demand

the

produce of the wandering tribes

becoming

and while

developing these wants.

for

for

Bokharian

cotton

even the secondary productions

such as

rice

and dried

fruit

crisis)

unlimited,

is

of Central Asia

—can

find a ready sale.

Putting aside the question of Bokharian cotton,

demand

the

for

which

at present is urgent,

probably only temporary, that Khiva, Bokhara, cial respects,

Russia

is

though

must be acknowledged

it

and Kokan

are,

much more dependent on

in

commer-

Russia than

on them, as these countries have no other

sources for procuring iron, copper,

gold, hardware,

wood-work, yufta, and dyes.

Without Russian gold or other Russian commodities,

they cannot pay

&c., sent

for

the tea, sugar, indigo,

from China and India.

Russia only

re-

quires sheep, hides, and wool, which are the pro-

ductions of the Kirghiz

and

in these Steppes she

))ortion of the

Steppes subject to her, disposes

of the greater

goods despatched by her to Central

Asia.

In the face of such a state of dependence of the Central Asiatic Khanats on Russia, the Government

DevelopiiKJit of Trade with the Kirghizes.

of this country have force the

Khanats

always in their power to

it

to

4G5

yield

to

their

wishes,

by

threatening an interruption of commercial relations,

but

must be observed

it

that every stoppage in the

trade would impose a loss on

Russian

manufac-

Such a peaceable measure would thus be

tm-ers.

more

prejudicial to the

ment

of military force.

With regard

Empire than the employ-

in particular to the Kirghiz-Kaisak

encampments, the degree of

and well-being depends

their productiveness

chiefly

on the

state

of

order and security in the Steppe, and this cannot

be maintained without the assistance of troops and the construction of a large

number

of forts against

the marauding Khivans and Kokanians.

The rapid development ghizes has

been

of trade with the Kir-

the result

of measures

adopted by the Russian Government

recently

for their pro-

tection.

However from

their

time, they

great the benefit which has been reaped

measures adopted up are

still

insufficient

pacification of the Kirghizes, fact that

between the

and Orenburg of

400

versts

line,

is

for

the complete

owing partly to the

last posts

there

to the present

on the Siberian

an unoccupied extent

through which the Tashkendians and

466

Travels in Central Asia.

Kokanians

and

make

freely

irruptions into the Steppe

pillage the Kirghizes, as also to the left

bank

of the Syr-Daria presenting rich pasturages along

which there were formerly irrigated are

now

by the inroads

Here, as elsewhere, security

commerce and

increasing

which

in consequence of the

entirely deserted

fears inspired

fields,

of the Kokanians.

the

is

its

first

element of

abundant

civilizing

The more prosperous the condition

influences.

of

the Kirghizes, the greater will be the development

The Russian Govern-

of Russian trade with them.

ment, therefore, in the interests of the Kirghizes

whom it has taken under whom a trade amounting

themselves,

its

protection

and with

to

more than

eight million roubles silver (£1,266,000)

is

carried on, will find itself forced to follow

policy

yearly

up the

has laid down.

it

Russian manufactures cannot compete in point of

cheapness with the productions of

Em'ope, and are diiven out of

which they meet

;

as

the markets in

and hence even on the Southern

sea- board of Persia,

Russia

all

Western

which

is

as easy of access to

the communication between Persia and

Western Em'ope

is difficult, it is

only the raw pro-

duce of Russia that finds purchasers.

With

the Oldening of the Chinese ports

to

all

467

Provisions of Musso-Chinese Treaty.

the European nations,

it

is

be

to

that the sale of Russian goods will

China

apprehended

all

them

the only available maxket for

;

but cease in

case will be that of Central Asia, which in

on

all

sides except to the north

physical obstacles.

in that

is

closed

by insuperable

Similarly placed

with regard

to Russia are the markets of Chinese Tm'kestan, or Little

Bokhara, which are also shut

off

from the

whole world, as they can only communicate with the distant provinces of China on the East, and

Russia

with

and

Kokan

on

West

the

and

North.

According to the treaty concluded with China, in

1851, Russian traders are allowed to

towns of Eastern Turkestan, chak

visit

two

Kuldja and Chugu-

but these are situated in a thinly populated

;

country, and

the Chinese

matchen

serve only as military outposts

empire.

On

this

in Mongolia, they are

account, like Mai-

mere

transit depots

and have hardly any independent

of tea,

of

trade of

their own.

To

the South of Kuldja, separated from Chinese

Turkestan by the Thian-Shan range, hara, surrounded on three sides sible

is

little

by almost

Bok-

inacces-

moimtains, and open only on the East where

merges

in the desert of Gobi.

it

468

Traoek

Russian

in Central Asia.

may be

goods

Bokhara by two routes Kuldja

Aksii,

to

Kokan to Kashgar. clad mountains

along the

first

;

;

and

introduced into Little

by the Northern, from by

Western, from

the

Both traverse ridges

but camels

it

is

said

of snow-

can travel

road, while the second can only be

passed by pack-horses with a burthen of not more than eight puds (about

3500

•l\

About

cwt. English).

of such caravan horses pass along this road

annually.

The road

to

Kuldja

frequented by trade-

is less

than the Kokanian route, Avhich

caravans

leads

through a country similar to Little Bokhara, origin,

faith

Kuldja

is

authorities,

and

historical

agamst

whom

the

whereas

traditions,

the placer of residence

of the Chinese

Mussulmen

an antipathy amounting to deep hatred.

As

cherish

already

mentioned, caraxans travel in eighteen days

Kokan

to

in

from

Kashgar, while the distance between

Kuldja to Aksu

is

reckoned

at

100

versts.

Prom

Aksii to Peldn, the journey of a caravan occupies

from four and a half to five months.

The

incessant

warfare carried on by the Little Bokharians with the

Chinese

ever

since

1825 has desolated an

extensive tract of country

and populous.

which was once

rich

Prospects of Bussuin T)-ade

The Central across the

Asiatic market can thus be extended

Celestial

Mountains, but to

Russian traders must penetrate

The

into

them

against

469

Central Asia.

in

of

first

be allowed to

all

Bokhara, which

Little

effect this

closed

is

at present.

total value of

Russian goods now annually

disposed of in Central Asia does not exceed five

and deducting that of

million roubles (£750,000),

amomit

the Kirghiz Steppe, the whole trade will not to

more than two

amount

is

This

(£300,000).

millions

doubtless very insignificant, but follow-

ing the example of England, whose commerce encircles the world,

covering

must

new

and now spares no

efforts in dis-

markets for her manufactm'es, Russia

direct particular attention towards developing

her trade with Central Asia, which

country in which there

is

almost the only

exists

still

a

Russian manufactures, especially as is

demand this

for

demand

yearly increasing. It is of course

impossible

to

say

Russian trade with Central Asia

under favourable conditions to observe that Persia, with five millions,

receives,

;

its

it

will

what

might be

limits

reach

sufficient

population of about

by way

of Trebisond

and

Erzerum, European goods to the amount of four million roubles

(£600,000) annually; while from

!

470

Tiaveln in Central Asia.

Russia the exports to that country amounted during the same period to only one and a half millions

(£237,500), while a considerable quantity of mer-

chandize Gulf.

is

sent from India

Two-thirds

Europe into Persia

by way

of the Persian

goods imported from

of the

consists of cotton fabrics, not-

withstanding that cotton

is

grown and manufac-

tured in almost every part of Persia This illustration

is

proof of the extent to

a

which the Russian trade with Central Asia might be developed, particularly as Russia presents so extensive a market for the produce of Bokhara,

Kokan and Khiva, and

furnishes these

Khanats

with the means of purchasing her goods.

Silk

being the only commodity that Persia sends to Europe,

she

experiences

great

difficulty

paying for the goods she receives, and therefrom by Russian gold, to which

is

is

in

extricated

probably

attributable the diplomatic

myth

of secret relations

between Russia and Persia

—the

one the head of

the Greek church, the other that of the great

Ma-

hometan schism. Unfortmiately for Russia, even the Bokharians, the most civilized of the Central Asiatics, are far

more barbarous than the

Persians,

and

it

cannot be expected that there will be

therefore tlie

same

471

Cotton Fabrics suitable for Trade.

demand there shall

European goods

for

now

is

that

in Persia until a considerable time

have elapsed.

As

of

three-fifths

the

Central Asiatic depression

wandering their

Bokhara

in

who

tribes,

them by

may be

the

of

said to consist of

are forced to purchase from

everything

neighbours

inhabitants

that

not yielded

is

they will as readily have

their herds,

recourse to Russia as to Khiva and Bokhara for these requirements, as long as they can seU theu' cattle, hides,

and wool to the traders of the former

country. as

Similarly,

harians find their

Khivans and Bok-

more advantageous

it

raw cotton and

using these will

soon as the

articles

purchase

silk to Russia,

in a

every

to

manufactured

description

dispose

of

instead

of

state,

of fabric

Russia in exchange for the raw material.

they

from It is

under such conditions, the

plain therefore, that

Russian trade with Central Asia might be largely developed, but

among

other

fabrics should

to accomplish this,

things,

that

the Russian

cotton-

Khanats pay more

regard to durability than to fine price

requisite

be of a closer texture than they are

at present, as the natives of the

the

it is

of stout

textures

finish.

But

as

depends more par-

472 ticularly

Travels in Central Asia.

on the price of the material out of which

they are manufactured,

it

will

be necessary,

in

order to enable the Russian cotton-goods to compete advantageously with the Bokharian, that the cost of the cotton used

be

as little as

may be

by Russian looms should

higher than the cost of the

material to the Bokharian producer, and this can

only be attained

by a reduction

facilitation of transport

establishing spinning

of the transit duty,

by good roads,

&c.,

and bv

and Aveaving manufactories at

a short distance from the Bokharian frontier. fabrics, distinguished

Slight cotton their finish

and cheapness,

into Persia from England.

with a large

sale,

is

are

merely

chiefly

for

imported

That these goods meet

due to the circmustance that

the Persians are fond of luxury, and that their coarse manufactures find a

Trans-Caucasian provinces.

demand "\"\'ere

latter circumstance, the sale of

own

in the R\issian it

not for this

English prints

in

Persia would be reduced fully one-half.

Prom it

the foregoing considerations and

will appear that the extension of

in Central Asia,

statistics,

Russian trade

depends mainly on two conditions,

on the importation of raw goods from Central Asia into Russia,

particularly cotton,

and

cattle

pro-

duce, and on the niauguration of a reign of peace, order, and jirosperity in these regions.

—

Prospects of Cotton Growing

The demand

for the

in

Bokhara. 473

raw productions of Central

Asia must increase annually, and the prices, especially

on

cattle

produce, wiU constantly

As regards

supply of these products.

wiU have

its

to

sale will

cotton, as

compete with the American supply,

depend on

its

quality, price,

and

local

working.

facilities for

The

and

should only be taken to increase the

that care

it

rise,

large quantities

of

cotton

brought from

Bokhara and Khiva yearly since 1855, shows that this cotton

that

can be used for different textures, and

capable, to a certain extent, of competing

it is

with the American staple

;

but, of course,

it

can-

not be denied that under present conditions, the

Bokharian cotton cannot supersede the American,

and that the Bokharians themselves would not

now

agree to cultivate a greater quantity, at the

prices

till

recently ruling.

In Bokhara and Khiva, the price of cotton per

pud, used to range from two to three roubles. The

Mazanderan,* which the spot

at

three

is

inferior in quality, sells

and three and a half roubles

per pud, and the price of cotton per

* Mazanderan

is

the

on

name

pud

in the

of the Persian province extending along

the South sliores of the Caspian, of which the important port of

Balfrush

is

the chief

city.

[Ed.] I

I

474

2Vare/s in Central Asia.

Southern ports of America, was generally from four

and a half

In England, the Indian

to five roubles.

cotton used generally to fetch cent,

difference existed in

and

American,

lower than the

Moscow

The

At present

the second from five to six roubles. at

was

first

and a half roubles, and

sold at from seven to eight

being sold

same

the

in the value of the

American and Bokharian cotton.

is

forty per

at least

it

from ten to twelve roubles, and

the importation of cotton from Bokhara has contrebled

sequently

preceding

diately

1861,

reaching

500,000 puds (about 78,000

Under the stimulus harian

landholders

ploughed

land

few years imme-

that of the

and

bales).

profitably

vegetable

These

their

into

produce,

not

but to Russian spinners.

high prices are, however,

cannot long be maintained, and

be feared that with

convert

plantations

cotton fields, and dispose of their to local manufacturers,

present

such prices, the Bok-

of

can

at

their

fall,

it

accidental, is

and

therefore to

the exportation of

cotton fi'om Central Asia will cease. It

is,

hitherto

moreover, of such it

was only used

inferior quality, for

that

wadding, and the

coarser sorts of twist, from No. 12 to 16.

Some

picked consignments, hoAvever, were lately brought

More Care

which produced yarns as

to Russia,

This

28.

proves

when

cotton,

Growing Cotton.

reqirired in

same

the

that

fine

as

straight

properly cleaned of seed and dust, fibres

and are not tumbled and triturated

in transit, at once rises If

No.

short-stapled

and properly ginned and pressed, so that the lie

475

50 per

American machines

cent, in value.

for cleansing

the cotton

could only be introduced into Central Asia, and

proper care were observed in packing the bales by

means of hydraulic might

presses, the

in the future even

compete

markets with foreign cotton.

But

ments can scarcely be expected

ment

of

Bokharian cotton in the

Russian

these improve-

until the establish-

a Russian factory at or near Bokhara,

where the native growers might be instructed

hi

the best methods for cultivating the cotton plant,

while the factory owner would also exercise functions of a broker, in unfit for

condemning

all

the

cotton

manufacture in Russia.

Under such an arrangement, the production cotton might continue to be in Bokhara,

market.

made

of

self-supporting

even under a decline of price in the

That the

Central

Asiatic

States

are

capable by their geographical extent of supplying

Russia with the two millions of puds, which her

looms

at present annually

produce, there cannot I

I

2

476

Travels in Central Asia.

be the

each desiatina yields not

least doubt, as

less

than 100 puds of un cleaned cotton, from which least

twenty-five

per

cent,

Consequently,

obtained.

of

clean

for

cotton

growing

According

Bokhara

in

square

1842,

nailes,

Khanykof,

this

Khanat

2,000,450

or

Owing

vated land.

Bokhara, which

is

quantity cannot be

gardens

to

to the

plentiful

scarcity

in

privileges

One

while in

;

suitable

and

of

culti-

available

greater

for fields

Khiva,

and

more

be conducted over the land

irrigatory canals could

from the Amu-Daria,

500

scarcity of water in

but in the Khanat of

;

re-

visited

contains

populated, a

thickly

made

who

desiafinas

is

these

2,000,000 puds, 80,000 desiafinas would be quired.

at

if

labouring hands were more

Kokan land,

there

with

is

certainly no

suitable

water

facilities.

of the principal obstacles to the increased

importation of Central Asiatic cotton into Russia is

presented by the cost and means of transport.

For transporting 2,000,000 of puds (32,150 tons) of cotton, not less than 100,000 camels are required, as, for

long distances, these animals are not loaded

with more than sixteen or eighteen puds which,

tlie

;

besides

caravan journey from Bokhara to Oren-

burg occupies from two

to

two and a half months.

—

Difficulties for

Want of

Considering, therefore, that seasons

—owing,

alternately,

are virtually impassable, this reason,

cannot

during the year, of cotton

tity

477

Transport.

the to

roads at certain heat and cold

and that the camels,

for

make more than one journey evident that the above quan-

it is

cannot be brought to Russia by

existing means.

Again,

for transporting

goods alone be used for carrying

the other items

cotton,

if all

of

the present resom'ces

the

export

trade

Central Asia would necessarily be neglected.

even

were possible to bring

if it

of

But

this vast quantity

of cotton to Russia, without raising the cost of

transport to a fabulous price, the question arises in

what

is

Russia to pay the Asiatics for their

goods, before the creases

demand

among them

?

for her productions in-

If they are to

be paid in

specie the cost of carriage will be doubled, as the

camels would back.

A

have to return without a freight

rapid growth in the

demand

for

Russian

goods in Central Asia can, as has already been stated, only

be calculated on when tranquillity and

order are established in those parts.

Having thus become acquainted with the

pre-

sent state of the commercial relations of Russia

with Central Asia, and their future prospects,

us

now examine

the

let

means which might soonest

lead to the realization of these views.

478

Travels in Cenlrnl Asia.

These means must be sought

mind

in

that there

secured in practice

:

is

—

for,

a twofold to

first,

while bearing object

make

be

to

the inhabi-

tants of Central Asia, as far as possible, capable

producing those

of

requires,

which Russia mostly

articles

and willing to accept modern

civilization,

thus creating at the same time a large demand for

Russian goods in return

;

and, secondly, to

lower the cost of the land-carriage of merchandize

between Russia and the Central Asiatic

To accomphsh the first

of

all

practicable,

first

of these

feeling of security

objects,

it

is

as

it is

and not of

tran-

as far

necessary to establish, a

States.

quillity in these parts.

The

" Barantas " or depredatory irruptions into

the limits of territory, in the

occupied by Russian troops

Kirghiz Steppe, have already been almost

totally suppressed,

but

and along the

bank

still

suffer

left

at the

head of the Syr-Daria

of the river, the Kirghizes

from the robberies and extortions of the

Khivans and the Kokanians, to which they are to a certain extent

purchase

their

obhged

to submit, being forced to

necessary

supphes

of

com and

other articles from them.

The

Ivirghizes,

however, are

much more

seriously

oppressed bv the Tashkendians and Kokanians, than

Ncccmit^for Emcling

New

479

Forts.

the Khivans, and the mmiediate erection of a few forts

on the Syr-Daria, above the

last

Russian

miUtary outpost of Djulek 44° 55' N., 66° 35' E. Fort No.

(approximative), appears indispensable. is

70

situated

which

river,

versts

from the mouth of the

by caravans

crossed at that point

is

proceeding from Orenburg to Bokhara. this

348

fort,

up the

versts higher

Port Perovski, and between the two, which, however,

1

river,

Above stands

Port No.

is

2,

In

is not of great importance.

the vicinity of Port Perovski, agriculture was at

one time in a flourishing condition, but

now from

the difficulty of irrigating

which

attributable

is

the

the perceptible

to

the level of the river bed of the principal

suffers fields, fall

in

arm

of

the Syr, the waters having been diverted into a

newly

established

called the Karanzak,

branch,

which again joins the main stream

The bed

of the

Karanzak

of the other branches,

the

greater

portion

much

is

and in of

this

the

at Port

No.

2.

lower than that

way monopolizes waters.

It

has

but recently been formed out of a canal excavated

by the Karakalpaks

for the purposes of irrigation,

and flows through a sandy unfit for

with

its

versts,

cultivation.

tract of country utterly

The course

of this branch,

lagoons or overflows, occupies 2000 square

and owing

to evaporation,

it

emits a great

480

Travels la Central Asia.

volume of dense vapour throughout there

extent,

this

thus a great waste of water, an element of

is

such unspeakable importance in these parts.

who have

Persons

assert that

is

it

the Karanzak

carefully

examined

this locality

dam up

absolutely necessary to

branch without further delay, by

which means alone a

body of water

sufficient

be preserved in the Syr-Daria, not only

will

for the

navigation of vessels, but also for supplying with

the

requisite

quantity

Yany-Daria

or

branch,

Southern

water the

of

which

one

at

period

reached the Sea of Aral, and whose banks were formerly occupied by a chain of settlements.

bed of

this river

being more elevated than those of

any of the others, the left

artificial

bank

The

is

more capable

The

water courses.

of the Syr-Daria

is less

of supplying

along the

soil

arid than that on

the right.

A

hundred

versts

Fort Perovski, Port

above

Djulek has been founded, which versts distant

from the point

at

fort is

about 160

which the Syr-Daria

approaches nearest to Tashkend, this town standing 50

A

crsts

eastward of the Syr-Daria.

From Tashkend, to the

town

ward

of the Syr,

even for a

the caravan route

of Kokan, situated

little

is

30 versts

185

versts

to the South-

which continues to be navigable

distance above this point.

481

strategical Policy of Russia.

From

the extreme Fort at the Chu-Pishnek river,

on the Kirghiz-Siberian

to the river Syr,

line

Fort Djulek, the distance

estimated at 400

is

at

versts,

along a route stretching Northwards from the town of Turkestan,

which

is

subject to the

Khan

of

Kokan. Russia must gain a firm footing at the head of the Syr for several reasons tually

:

for protecting effec-

from the exactions of the

the Kirghizes

Kokanians and Tashkendians

;

for

securing the

navigation along the course of the Syr, as sents the

most convenient channel

tion with Russia,

and

for the safety of the

for supplying

either

wood

at the foot of

pre-

communica-

affords the only guarantee

Russian garrisons

both the

or coals,

of

it

forts

;

and

lastly,

and steamers with

fuel,

from the Karatau mountains,

which stand the towns of Tiirkestan

and Tashkend, or from the Ala-tau range beyond the town of Kokan.

These mountains are clothed with

forests,

and

formations of coal have been discovered in them.

The sand

of the rivers descending from

auriferous, moreover,

them

is

and the mountains themselves

are rich in various descriptions of mineral wealth.

The present condition Russian

fortifications

of the garrisons in the

of the Steppe, deprived of

482

Travels in Central Asia.

every convenience, and often wanting the necessaries of

life, is

truly lamentable

and

;

their state

can only be ameliorated by maintaining unrestricted

communication by means of the Syr-Daria, from source to will

it

embouchure,

its

as only

by water-carriage

be found possible to supply them with the

necessaries they

The

now

of

cost

supplies

so

much

require.

supporting these

whose use must

for

Russia, constitutes a serious the

its

all

the

garrisons,

be sent from

item of expense to

Government, which pays 400,000

Russian

roubles annually for the transport of the provisions

required by the small garrisons of the Syr-Daria posts.

corn

is

This expenditure wiU be saved as soon as

permitted to be purchased for the troops

and

Tashkend;

in

the

other

be produced in the neigh-

necessaries of

life

boui'hood

the forts,

of

time,

process of

at

will

by Russian

and

settlers

Kirghizes.

The

authorities at

Orenbm-g

tried formerly,

wandering

every possible means, to prevent the

Kirghizes from adopting a settled

pursuing

agricultiu'e,

being

rearing would be neglected.

proved, however, quantity of

to

be

mode

afraid

by

of

that

life,

and

cattle-

These apprehensions

ill-founded.

Pirst,

land available for cultivation

is

the

very

Odstades

limited

way of Bearing

in the

when compared

483

Cattle.

to the whole extent of the

Steppe, and therefore tilled land will always bear but a small proportion to the whole region is

;

secondly,

it

only the poorest Kirghizes that become fixed and

stationary, after having lost their cattle

workmen

Kirghizes employ

;

the rich

to cultivate patches of

land near their summer or winter encampments, without abandoning at the same time their roaming

way

habits.

In this

affords

them great

the cultivation of the land

assistance, as their families are

supplied with corn, which in case of need

is

also

is

not

given to the cattle.

The

increase

of cattle

prejudicially affected

was supposed

the

by a

by the

materially checked

in

Steppe

the

scarcity of breeders, as

local

by the

great mortality

from snow-storms and

cattle

but

aiithorities,

frost,

is

among

and the

absence of shelter and fodder for the cattle during the inclement winters of the Steppe.

The spread

of agriculture

would consequently be preservation

Steppe.

Besides

for

actually encouraged

and multiplication of

civilizing their

demand

among the Kirghizes

enriching

natwe,

it

the

cattle

by the in

Kirghizes

the

and

would produce a greater

Russian productions, and render those

wandering in the southern part of the Steppe more

4S4

Travels in Central Asia.

independent

whom

Bokharians, from

and

Kokanians,

Khivans,

the

of

they are

now obhged

to

procure their supplies of corn. does

It

however,

not,

follow

that

with

the

pursuits, the Kirghizes

diffusion

of

who roam

near the confines of the Orenburg region

and

agricultural

Siberia,

Russians.

On

accustomed to the

demand

cease

will

buy corn from the

to

the contrary, as they

.the

for

become more

use of bread, the greater will be

from Russia,

it

the Ku-ghizes

as

themselves cannot produce the quantity sufficient

consumption.

for their ovra daily

At present

the

diet

of these

wandering

and cheese-

consists almost entirely of meat, milk,

curd

;

bread being very sparingly used, and con-

Were

fined to a few of the Avealthiest chiefs.

three millions of Kirghizes single

tribes

quarter

corn

of

only

per

consume

to

head

the

per

a

annum,

Russia would export annually into the Steppe, not

100,000 quarters

as at present, but

thirty times

that quantity.

The Russian Government having become convinced of the utility of encouraging the spread of agriculture

in

particularly

along

the

where corn cannot

Kirghiz the

Steppe,

and more

banks of the Syr-Daria,

be raised without

irrigation,

Good Policy of Encouraging not

will

perceive

to

fail

excavating and maintaining in these parts,

4S5

Agriculture.

importance

the

of

water courses

artificial

which indeed are objects of

solici-

tude even in the most unsettled Asiatic countries.

By

adopting measures

Kirghizes, and

the

for

the

of

security

by encouraging agriculture among

them, the Russian Government will lay the foundation for the futm'e prosperity of the inhabitants of

the

With regard

Steppe.

territories of Central Asia,

Khanat

that in the

of

the

to it

independent

must be observed

Bokhara

may

a certain extent, already exists, which the point

the

reach

development attainable in Asiatic-

of

Mussulman

order, to

social

countries,

whereupon the turbulence of

neighbouring tribes will be subdued,

Russian factories can be

which

after

established

at

Bokhara.

The Khanat of Kokan sway of one .

or

ruler,

numerous petty

of

alternately

at

Kokan

enmity with each is

richer than that

of Bokhara in the gifts of nature, but tion

is

much more

quently

civilizing influence of

the

restoration

of

for

popula-

its

barbarous, and there

reason

greater

under the

chronically divided into

territories

The country

other.

is

is

is

establishing

Russia in these parts.

peace

and

conse-

order,

the

With

Kokan

is

486

Travels in Coufral Asia.

capable

carrying on an extensive trade with

of

The

Russia.

by the

Syr-Daria,

communication afforded

of

facility

which

navigation of

the

is

suspended only during three or four months in the a Russian force to overawe the

year, will enable

countries bordering on the river.

The

repression of the Khivans will be a more

but Russia cannot allow them to go

difficult task,

on as they do

without injury to her

at present

The Khanat

general relations with Central Asia. of

Khiva

is

very thinly populated, and

is

far

from

Kokan

possessing the natural riches with which

is

endowed. might,

country

This

ignored, were

it

be altogether

therefore,

not for the circumstance that the

whole existence and economy of Khiva on an institution which

is

the

is

cause of

founded the

all

robbery and anarchy in the neighbouring States. This cause, so productive of laborious

and

work

their

necessary

in

evil,

is

All

slavery.

Khiva is performed by bondsmen,

acquisition

condition

consequently

for

the

becomes

existence

of

a the

Khanat.

Formerly there were slaves

in

entirely

many Russians among

the

Khiva, but at present slaves are almost obtained

from

Persia,

and

the

sole

Prevalence of Slave^-y in Khiva.

occupation of the

487

neighbouring Turitmen tribes

consists in kidnapping Persians for sale at Khiva.

The whole

of that portion of Persia laying to the

East and South-East of the Caspian, and containing provinces of Astrabad

the

and Korassan, both

abounding in natural productions, on account of

fortunately situated,

condition, against the inroads of the

The along

tracts of land occupied

the

rivers

Gurgan

most un-

is

defenceless

its

Turkmen.

by the Turkmen

and Atrek,

lie

localities

which, by the ruins of ancient monuments they contain,

bear

evidence

of

having

been

the

Turkmen

selling their

captives,

there

is

every probability

and the

Khivans being no longer supplied with

would exchange

slaves,

their freebooting occupations for

the more lucrative industry

ing

that

are deprived of the opportunities for

that they will revert to peaceful pursuits,

their

once

Now

inhabited by flourishing communities.

of the plough,

and

example would be followed by the neighbour-

Turkmen encampments,

as well

as

the Kir-

ghizes and Karakalpaks.

The

slave traffic in

Khiva cannot be suppressed

without having recourse to compulsory measures,

and these

it

would be more

difficult

here than in the Khanat of Kokan.

to

enforce

488

Travels in Central Asia.

The entrance Daria

is

armed

of

extremely

shallowness of feet over the

the

Amu-

on account of

difficult

the

mouth, there being only three

its

bar

vessels into

at

high

vi^ater,

besides which, at

low water, the shoals in the river above are so

numerous that

drawing more than two

vessels

cannot possibly

ascend

Were

it.

feet

flat-bottomed

steamers to be despatched up the river with troops,

even dm-ing the season of high-water, their

any miscarriage, would be attended

in the event of

with serious obstacles. yields

retreat,

no other

The Amu, furthermore,

along

fuel

course

its

than the

bushes of the Saxaul, which would prevent the vessels

making an extended

ing these

cruize.

difficulties, it is certain

Government,

if

determined to

Notwithstand-

that the Russian abolish the slave

trade of Khiva, might devise the necessary means for this purpose,

but

it

must be owned

that any

military operations on the part of Russian Central

Asia would be attended with great outlay. If the military picket line of frontier

moved

to the

new boundary

Ural-Orenburg and Siberian

were

re-

of the empire, the

lines,

extending from

Yurief on the Caspian, to Bukhtarminsk, a distance of

3300

versts,

the Cossacks by

would then become

whom

useless,

and

they are maintained, being

489

lioiUes acro&s Independent Tartary.

from that duty, might be removed to the

relieved

places on the

fertile

Upper

where the cost of

Syr,

their subsistence

would be considerably

Overcoming

manner the

in this

the barbarous Asiatics place

obstacles which

way

the

in

less.

of the

development of Russian trade, the natural impedi-

ments by which nature has cut Russia

remain to be considered presented by

a

\ast

The

.

chief obstruction

extent

however by

traversed

from

by the Syr and Amu,

watered

that rich oasis

oif

live principal

Mangyshlak

Steppe,

ban-en

of

is

routes, viz.:

1,

from Khiva

2,

from Khiva to the Western shore of the Sea of

to

Aral towards Orenburg

wards the

Orenburg

to

Troitsk

;

to

5,

first-named

but

versts,

infested

and

by

route,

of

leads from

Of

these,

it

passes

is

The

Steppe

Kirghiz

the shortest, not exceeding

1300

to

the

1000

through waterless regions

Turkmen, and

is

for

these

unfrequented.

The second

versts long, is

open to much

the same objections, and lected.

Tashkend along

is

reasons

which

from

the

the Caspian;

from Bokhara North-

Petropavlovsk.

pillaging

other

4,

;

border

Eastern

3,

;

on

third road,

Orenburg

to

is

therefore equally neg-

that

in

Orsk (225

ordinary use, versts),

thence to Fort No. l,on the Syr-Daria (721

K K

from

versts),

;

490

Travels in Central Asia.

a

offering

farther

200

road

traversable

safe

vehicles

on again to the Yany-Daria river (about

and

versts),

whence

Steppe for 300 versts, from

Bokhara there remains a distance of

to

about 200

sandy but

versts, over

The whole reckoned

less arid localities.

distance from Orenburg

1700

at

From

versts.

Orsk to Bokhara there are

many from last route,

southwards through

lastly trends

a completely vi^aterless

better,

for

Troitsk

however,

is

is

and

as

forty stages,

for cattle is

the road

which

Petropavlovsk,

Bokhara

of

Along

Tashkend.

to

good pastm'e

to

the fortress

found.

this

StUl

from Tashkend to

throughout the whole

is

distance passable for wheel carriages, and though it

extends across a barren Steppe, wells are to be

found along It

versts.

The length

it.

is

only

lately

of this road

that

is

1600

certam kinds

of

goods are transported from Russia into the Steppe, as far

even as the banks of the Syr, by means of

oxen and

carts.

goods

on

is

The ordinary mode which

camels,

of carrying

animals

are

capable of supporting the want of water,

alone or

of

drinking water of bad quality, while they can also subsist

Goods

on are

the prickly

despatched

those seasons of

the

a

shrubs

of

the

Steppe.

by caravans, and only ear

when snow

at

hrn'ricanes

Trade with Petropavlovsk.

and the

in winter

sultry heat

and

491

aridity of

summer

do not render the Steppes impassable.

Owing

two caravans

to these circumstances only

pass between Bokhara and Orenburg during the year,

and the number of

the caravan

is

and men forming

cattle

in proportion to the difficulties to

The number of

be encountered on the journey. beasts of burden in the caravan

by

the supply of water

road.

is

and pasture

The route from Khiva

a

Orenburg

to

performing

Bokhara and

transporting goods or

averaging a

carrying

avoirdupois. price paid

is

scarcity of water

Caravans are from two to two and

months

half

along the

to the Caspian has

been abandoned on account of the

and pasture.

governed

also

ten

load

is

from

From

five

from

journey

The

vice versa.

roubles of

the

cost of

to fifteen roubles, 10s.) per

(£1

sixteen

puds,

Orenburg

to

60 copecks per pud

camel 5761bs.

or

Bokhara

(5s. 8d.

the

the cwt.)

During the year 1860, 25,565 beasts of burthen and 5073

carts arrived at the

Orenburg, Troitsk

and Petropavlovsk Custom Houses, and 8145 and

4337 places.

respectively

Waggons

were

from

despatched

those

or carts are principally used in

transporting government stores, or goods destined for the troops stationed in the Steppe.

The trade

KK 3

Trdrflif hi Cciifral ^ii^in.

49.2

with

Central

the

carried on

animals)

is

mostly

by means of beasts of burthen (pack calculating,

;

countries

Asiatic

therefore,

per camel, the (juantity

at

sixteen

puds

goods brought into

of

Russia amounted to 400,000 puds, (4160 tons,)

and sent from that country puds,

when

(li)7:2

upwards

of

130,000

These figures are \ery low

taken into consideration that a great

is

it

tons).

to

portion of the lieavy l)nlk

is

made up

of metals.

Naturally, large (piantities of goods

cannot be

transported hy the present inadequate means of

conveyance, and although the cost of transporting

goods to Russia

is

now

lower than formerly, since

the pacification of the Steppe to the North of the Sy]--Daria,

Khi\an

and the exemption of the caravans from

toll-dues, the

cost

from Bokhara to Moscow roubles (jrdei-

a

to

more

pud,

per

is

of transporting goods

seldom

about tl"^ 10s.

lessen the expense of the direct

less

per ton.

In

land carriage,

route than the present

be selected, or those in existence

than two

one must

made more

con-

venient for the passage of caravans.

The most direct route for sending goods from

Khi\a

to

the

Volga

is

undoid)tedly

that

rui

.Mangyshlak, where stands the Nov Alexandrovski LA)rt.

Rut

unfortunately

the

whole extent of

Fiihn-c Ihiilc

counti'V is

for

Traiix/joii

between the Amu-Daria and the

ahnost totally devoid of

niaranding Turkmen. onl\'

of floods.

Hut when is

Cas])iaii

and infested b\

watei',

by camels,

travei'salilc

V.):\

this route,

cleared

though

of

these

Jr

Caijavax-Hastii

robbers, will

it

will

(Ivirt^'A)

anti

Atii\im>

acquire gieatcr

importance

and

always serve as an auxiliaiy road, should the

means

of conveyance on

be temporarily cut

off,

the other lines of transit

or be found

commercial requirements.

to fall short

oi'

494

Travels in Central Asia.

The

conjectures so often hazarded in different

works respecting the diversion of the course of the

Amu

into its ancient

bed

to the Caspian, are alto-

undeserving of serious

gether

attention,

the

as

evaporation in the Steppe would preclude

great

the possibility of the waters of this river reaching

the sea, even were the whole stream directed to

by

up

shutting

the

absorb so large a quantity of

measure would have the the whole population

whose water

very

waterless

cannot

but

Bokharian

goods might

Amu more

easily

which

particularly

from the towTi of Bokhai-a.

At

this

navigated by

The

native

sidered navigable for

this

boats.

as

be conveyed to only

Along

of

Caspian

the

to

is

this river,

800 of which

supply

a

and dangerous character of the

be regretted,

Khiva along

Khiva,

of

and pastures.

from the

leading

route

depends on

existence

for their fields

The

Khanat

the

last

of impoverishing

effect

of

This

volume.

its

which

canals

irrigating

it

fifty versts

part

river

a distance of

is

1100

it

is

con-

versts,

are through a populated country.

waterway, Russian goods might penetrate

to the very base of the Celestial mountains.

At

first

sight

it

may appear

goods brought down the

Amu

easy to transport the to the

Sea of Aral,

Various Commercial Routes ProjKsed.

and, carrying is

a

little

them up the

Syr, the

mouth

of

495 which

deeper than that of the former river and

never shallower than three to Port No. 1, from

is

and so bring them

feet,

whence they can be despatched

But considering the small

overland to Russia.

depth of water at the embouchure of the that the flat-bottomed boats which

may

Amu, and be used in

navigating this river cannot be safely used on the

stormy and turbulent Sea of Aral, for which reason the

goods would have to be

difficulties in

the

way

win be found very

transhipped,

of surmounting this

the

scheme

great.

Acknowledging therefore the unavoidable necessity for the

time being of transporting goods between

Russia and Bokhara overland, render

it

less perilous

The extent of 500

and

versts

it

only remains to

costly.

between the Kuvan-Daria

and Bokhara, now traversed by caravans, water and forage, and

is

is

scanty in

imperfectly guarded against

the marauding Kirghizes owing to the impossibility of maintaining stationary military pickets in these parts.

The road can

camels

and strong caravans, and

therefore be traversed only at

the

by

most

favourable season of the year.

The road from the Syr-Daria frontier can

be used by

carts

to

the

Russian

drawn by a

single

496

Travels

Ce/ifraf Asia.

i)i-

The communi-

animal

&t all seasons

cation

with Russia would of course be greatly

facilitated,

of

year.

tlie

were the transport of goods between

Bokhara and the Syr capable

same manner

the

in

effected

by

the

bank of the

left

;

this,

of being carried on

however, can only be

skirting the wilderness stretching from

Amu

and the Sea

of Aral to

Western slope of the Kara-tau and Ala-tau

the

The most convenient

mountains.

route, therefore,

from Bokhara to Russia should lead to the SyrDaria through Tashkend or Kokan.

patched from Bokhara

to Russia

Goods cannot

dessafely

pass through the Kokanian territory, until the incessant warfare carried on between Bokhara and

Kokan

has subsided, and this can only be effected

by Russian

influence.

The duty

collected during

1860 on the goods

passed through the Orenburg and Siberian frontier

custom-houses yielded 315,000 roubles, of which

97,000

were collected on

salt

from the Kirghiz

Steppes, 90,000 on cotton manufactures, and 23,000

on

silk It

and woollen

appears

fabrics.

advisable,

therefore, in

order

Russia should effectually protect the Kirghizes

have placed themselves under her

rule,

that

who

and to extend

—

497

Requisites for Protecti/ny Trade.

the commercial

intercourse between

Russia and

Central Asia, to adopt the following measures 1

:

—To occupy the upper course of the Syr-Daria

.-

by a military

ensure the free navi-

force, so as to

gation of the whole river,

by which means the

Kokan and Bokhara

struggle carried on between

would be stopped. 2.

—To

secure a firm footing on the Amu-Daria,

in order to

put a stop to the

traffic

in

slaves,

and

subdue the Turkmen tribes camping on the Eastern shores of the Caspian. 3.

—To

connect

Siberian lines 4.

—To

by a

Syr-Daria

the

—To

Kirghiz

series of forts.

the

transfer

Orenburg

frontier lines to the above 5.

and

new

and

Siberian

military boundaries.

establish regular steam

communication

on the Syr-Daria. 6.

—To despatch

consuls to those Central Asiatic

countries with which Russia maintains commercial relations,

and to endeavour

to establish Russian

factories in those places. 7.

—To encourage

ghizes.

agriculture

among

the

Kir-

APPENDICES.

APPENDIX

I.

Itinerary op Routks in thk Trans-Ili

AND Chu Regions.

(A) Fi'om Port Venioc

to

Phlipck.

(1) Keskelen river, 28^ versts.

The road trends along

ground, crossing the

level

Great Almatinka, Boraldai, and Aksu rivulets,

which

issue

from

the

mountains.

rivulets are diverted into

canals. versts

at a distance of five

and more from the base Kargaly

river,

of the Ala-tau.

21 versts.

Numerous guUies formed by the viraters

in

these

innumerable arvks or

The road extends

(2)

All

defiux of the

spring from the Ala-taii are crossed.

502

Central Asia.

Travels in

and the Chemolgan

an affluent of the

rivulet,

Keskelen, traversed.

Fort Kastek, 31 versts.

(3)

The ground

more

is

level here

than on the pre-

Good pasturage

ceding stages.

found along

is

the Uzun-Agatch and Kara-Kastek rivulets.

Bugu-Muyus

(4)

river,

23

versts.

Here the road traverses small ravines

similar to

those occurring on the second stage of the route,

and gradually approaches the mountains. halting-place for the night on the is

at the very

of the road

head of the intersected

is

and Kara-Archa

(5) Salt

Marsh

at

Bugu-Muyus This portion

defile.

by the Djiren-Aigyr

rivulets.

head of Djamanty

Running through the Bish-Mainak

The

defile in

torrent,

the

river,

16

versts.

which rushes the road

continuously

ascends the chain, and in some parts crosses spurs of the main range.

Occasionally

it

leads

over tedious and dangerous slopes.

(6)

After

Kara-Kunus

attaining

the

river,

sununit

284

versts.

of the

range, at a

Itinerary for

Trans-Ili

and Chu.

503

short distance from the head of the Djamanty,

and from the

Boladjan

mountain,

gradually descends to the valley of

road

the

the Chu,

over nunierous spurs which impede the progress.

The Kara-Kunus the mountains,

where

it

issues

from

well supplied with water.

Pormer Tokmak Fort, 15

(7)

On

is

rivulet,

versta.

gaining the Valley of the Chu, this river must

be crossed

the passage

;

is

more

easily

accom-

plished above Kekmek-Sengir than iumaediately opposite

over the

Tokmak.

Chu

(8)

be

Kagety

may be

at the

fords

are not deeper than three feet.

Prom Kara-Kunus, Valley

In hot weather the

river,

versts.

the Northern side of the

followed.

Kara-Su

21

The

Chu

night-halts will

spring, twenty-five versts from

Kara-Kunus, and on the banks of the Chu, close to the

Chumttch

three versts.

Pishpek

is

ford, a distance of twenty-

The distance from Chumitch

to

nine and a half versts.

(9) Fort Pishpek, 25i versts.

The road extends through the Chu

Valley, parallel

Travels in

5(14

the base of the Kirghiz-Alatau, traversing

witli

the Shamsi and

On

Asia.

('ctitral

Naurus

rivulets.

the whole of this extent there are convenient

places for night-halts,

water at of the

very

is

grass and

sufficient

the localities indicated

all

Chu

and

muddy, and

it

;

is

the water therefore

preferable to avoid this river. Total,

209i

versts, or 139|- miles.

B. Another Route from Pishpek to Kastek.

Argaity

(1)

river, 2.3 versts.

The Chu mast be crossed

at the

Chumitch

ford,

and a northerly direction pursued over even ground.

The reeds along the Chu spread

width of three

versts.

(2) Argaity river,

The road

to a

14

versts.

leads through the narrow valley of this

river,

which

reeds,

and has a

(3)

A journey

is

also

partially

overgrown with

slight inclination.

Kurdai

river,

30

versts.

across inconsiderable mountains to the

northern side of the Alatau, emerging

midway on

Itinerary for Trans-Ili

and Chu.

505

the source of the Kurdai, which, in hot weather, dries

up where

leaves the mountains.

Taldy-Bulak rivulet, 20 versts.

(4)

The road

it

trends

close

along

the

Ala-tau, through the perfectly flat

The Taldy-Bulak

is

base of the

Kopa

Valley.

a small stream disappearing

altogether in a few aryks that serve to irrigate

the Kirghiz pastures.

(5)

Jounieying

still

Sarymsak spring, 36

versts.

through the Kopa Valley, leaving

on one side the Djamanty, Bish-Mainak, and

Kara-Archu

rivulets,

which become completely

dry in summer, the ground along this extent

is

level.

(6) Fort Kastek, 25 versts.

The road

several hollows

traverses

and

ravines,

and crosses the Utch-Bulak stream to DjirenAigyr, at which point

it

emerges on the

first

route.

The Chumitch ford

Tokmak

;

is

worse than the fords above

but the Kurdai pass

is,

on the other

hand, more accessible than that of Bishmainak. Total 151 versts, or 1001 miles.

L L

506

Travels in Cenlral Asia.

(C) FroHi iii(/M-halt on the

Uzun-Su

(1)

The road

Kurdai

rivulet,

to

It-KicJm.

l7i versts.

stretches along the base of the Ala-tau

range, which at this part

and

height,

the

past

of inconsiderable

is

Iri-Su

and

Kizyl-Su

springs.

(2)

Kendyk-Tash

The character

The Kopa and

is

of

rivulet,

15 versts.

the country remains the same.

valley

becomes somewhat narrower,

bordered by low and rocky mountains on

the North and South.

(3)

The same

Cliokmar-Su

Westward

;

at

versts.

The Kopa

description of ground.

widens by degrees scends

24

rivulet,

Chokmar-Su

the

valley it

de-

to the Dala-kainar valley.

(±) Dala-kainar river,

The road runs along the

20

versts.

and occasionally

rivulet

over small elevations.

(5)

As the

Mai-Bulak

Dala-kainar

livuleb,

becomes

24

versts.

exhausted before

reaching the Chu, the journey must be continued

;

Itinerari/

for Tirnn^-Ifi and

to the S.W., over undulating ground,

Bulak spring little

Mai-

to

however, contains but

this latter,

;

507

Cliii.

water.

(6) Fort It-Kichu, 25 versts.

The

ford

here

over

Chu

the

very shallow

is

the shores are overgrown with reeds.

The

grass on this route

is

poorer in quality than

along the other described roads. Total 122-^ English versts, 804 English miles.

(D)

From Pishpek (1)

to

Sokuluk

Adie-Ata, on the

river,

The road runs through the by the

intersected

is

Talai^.

27 versts.

valley of the

Chu, and

Shiraly,

Kiunuk,

rivers

and Djilamys. (2)

Same ground. bed

the

of

Fort Aksu, 24 versts.

The Chu the

river

valley

becomes wider

turns

the

to

as

North-

west.

(3)

The

Upper Kaindy river, 22 road

presents

versts.

similar

Fort Merke, 25 features.

same ground; on nearing Merke

versts.

Still

the

ravines are

crossed.

L L 2

508

Travels in Central Asia.

20 versts Toichi-aryk, 20' versts Mak30 versts Kara-Archa, 25 versts Aulie-Ata

(4) Tarty river,

mal

river,

;

;

;

;

tovm, 30 versts.

The ground

pretty even, and only in-

at first is

by small

tersected

approaching Aulie-Ata,

Nearer to the Talas

223

Total,

versts, or

(E)

with rivulets

ravines

it

it

but

;

more undulating.

is

again becomes

flat.

148| miles.

From Aulie-Ata

to

Namangan.

(1) TJtch-Kurgan, 25 versts.

The road extends along the along the

left

five versts

mountains, and follows as

far

The

the

as

the Kara-Bura spring,

and rocky ground make

difficult.

Caravans traverse

two days, halting midway (3)

descent

Southwards into the

off'

culminating point of the pass.

steep descents

journey very

The

versts.

from Utch-Kurgan along the Talas

road strikes

valley, the

of the Talas,

this river.

Kara-Bura Pass, 40

(2)

At

bank of

valley

this

it

in

for the night.

Chirchik river, 35 versts.

from

Marzashnyn-Choty

the

mountains

rivulet,

the same character as above.

follows

the

the road presenting

Itinerary for Trans-Ili

(4)

and Cku.

Kurgan-Chanysh, 30

After fording the

bank of

left

ground traversable by

is

con-

this stream, over

vehicles.

Chanysh Pass, 25

(5)

versts.

Chirchik, the journey

tinued along the

509

versts.

The road again runs Southwards, entering the mountains, along

summit of the

(6)

Chanysh

the

rivulet to

the

pass.

Ai-Tash

locality,

25 versts.

Descent.

(7) Iski

The small versts

the

Abat settlement, 13

versts.

settlement of Safet-Bulak occurs at five

from the night halting-place,

mountams

(8)

The road here village of

;

at the foot of

beyond, the ground

Namangan town, 20 stretches

Goleshan

verst.

Namangan

name

virhich issues

is is

is

even.

versts.

over a plain, and

the

passed on the sixteenth

on a

river

of the

same

out of a snow-capped range.

Several canals exist in the neighbourhood of the

510

Travel)^ in Central Asia.

town, and irrigate the

fields of the

many

settle-

ments that spread here. Total,

213

versts, or

(F)

Asa

(1)

A

miles.

From Adie-Ata

river,

20 versts

to Siizak.

Bel-kul lake, 25 versts.

;

through the Kara

level road

valley.

Djangys-Agatch spring, 16

(2)

A

142

versts.

road down the course of the Asa.

level

(3) Arba-tasb spring,

The road

20

versts.

crosses low hiUs.

Cherbakty

15' versts river, Chernakty river, 25 Babaty river, 25 versts Sunduk river, 30 versts Uzun-Bulak river, 30 versts Cholak-Kiirgan fort, 15 Suzak fort, 55 versts. versts

(4)

versts

;

;

;

;

;

;

Along the whole of

and grass

The road

this

extent of the road, water

are procurable

at

the Northern foreland of the

skirts

Boraldai range, at a distance of

ground Total,

27G

is

live versts.

level.

versts, or

(G)

the night halts.

From (1)

Along the Kara

\'

ls4

miles.

Ai/Jie-Ata to Tavklcend.

Asa

alley.

river,

30

versts.

The

Itinerary for Tram-Ill

Kuyuk

(2)

Passing

first

hills,

through a

20

and Chu.

511

versts.

valley, the

road then runs

may

be traversed in

over gentle heights, which carts.

(3) Ters settlemeat, liO versts.

The road descends from extends

along

the

Kuyuk

Ters valley

the

hills,

and

— abounding

in

water and grass.

Arysh

(Ji)

The road

crosses

mountains, and then

into three branches

kan

river 25 versts.

:

one leading over the Chom-

elevation, passable

the Kulan pass third

is

—

^not

separates

by

carts,

another through

a very good one

—

while the

merely a pathway used by single horse-

men.

(5) Karakchi-Bulak settlement,

The road descends the river

remaining on the

(6)

valley

1-t versts.

of the

Arysh, the

right.

Mashat town, 20

versts.

Continuing in the same direction. Westward, the road deflects from the Arysli, leaving on the

left

512

Travels in Central Asia.

the mountains, from whence

all

occur on this joiirney take their

The Arysh

the rivulets that rise.

flows at a distance of five versts to

the North of the road.

(7)

Mankent

The settlement

settlement, 13 versts.

Mankent

of

inhabitants, consisting of

contains about

1600

husbandmen and

petty

traffickers.

(8) Kizyl-Su river, 16 versts.

The road

intersects the

Aksu

rivulet.

(9) Saraim town, 20 versts.

This

small town

stands

on

the

banks of the

Saraim which flows into the Arysh and takes rise in the

(10)

Badam

The road

its

Kara-tinbe moimtains.

river,

passes

18

versts.

Duvan-Kurgan, 20

versts.

over low spurs of the Kyzyr-

kurt.

(11) Ak-Djar settlement, 26 versts.

Through Sharib-Khan Settlement.

Itinerary for Trans-Ili and Chu.

513

(12) Djas-Kichu ford, 20 versts.

This ford

over

is

road runs

tlie

Keles

river,

with which the

parallel.

Kara-Kamysh

(13)

Midway, the road

25

locality,

crosses the

versts.

Uzun-Aryk

conducted from the Chtrchika

canal,

rivulet.

(14) Tashkend 8-10 versts.

The

part

latter

settlement

of this marche-route,

of Ak-Djar,

does

not

from the

quite

agree

with that contained in Humboldt's " Asie Centrale," Vol. Ill, p.

Total,

285 (H.)

versts, or

338.

190

miles.

IVom Tashkend,

(1)

Ak-Djar settlement, 55

Back by the same

off

River Chu. versts.

road.

(2) At-Bulak,

Turning

to the

20

versts.

from the Keles, the road runs over

low hUls. (3)

Chemkend town, 20

After descending from the into the

Badam

valley.

of the Kyzyrkurt are

left

hills,

versts.

the road emerges

The wooded summits on the

right.

514

Travels in Centred Asia.

(4)

The journey

Arysh

river, 2-j verats.

continued over gently undulating

is

ground, to the Arysh the Chubar-Su,

its

below the mouth

river,

The

affluent.

deep and broad, and a ferry over

river here

exists,

at

of is

times,

it.

(5)

Bogon

river,

20

versts.

Undulating ground.

(6) Arslandy river,

Same ground.

The Chayan

30

versts.

rivulet

occurs half-

way.

(7)

The base at

river,

20

versts.

of the Kara-taii mountains

is

approached

Min-Bulalak settlement.

(8)

A

Kara-Basil

Cholak-Kurgan Fort, 3G

versts.

pass oxer the Kara-taii movmtains. rally

cleared in

two days.

some distance through from the settlement.

mountains,

The road

a valley after

and

It is gene-

before

lies

for

descending reaching

a

Itinerary for Trans-Ili (9) Kli spring,

20

and Chu.

515

versts.

Across a level Steppe.

(10)

Kara-Kul

lake, 15 versts.

Level and partly sandy ground.

Reeds

in the

direction of the lake.

(11) Turn settlement, 30 versts.

A

tedious journey across

marsh occur

(12)

Chu

Similar

Beyond

country.

this,

sahnes

;

and a

at the night halt.

Kazangan-Utkul

river, at the

towards the

sands

Reeds

extend

ford,

25 versts.

for

six

versts

river.

the road runs

past the Tes-Bulak

settlement, through a barren Steppe to Semipalatinsk.

Total,

316

(I)

versts, or

2101

From Azret

miles.

{Turkestmi)

to

the

Chu.

(1) Karsatty, 15 versts.

Over even ground covered with rich

grasses.

(2) Babai, 15 versts.

The road reaches the with birch woods.

foot of the Kara-tau, clothed

.

516

Travels in Central Asia.

Suzak Fort, 45

(3)

versts.

Crosses the mountains through a rocky and well

watered in

This stage

defile.

two days, halting

is

generally passed

for the night in the defile.

Beyond the descent the road extends

The name

distance through the valley. defile is

The road on

tbe Toitube ford, 80 versts.

river, at

Saxaid are met with.

155

Total,

(K) (1)

and

1034

From Aulie-Ata

Kara-Archa

Kichu

fort,

;

river,

miles.

32 versts

versts

;

;

Lake Balkhash.

to

;

Tarty, 15 versts

35 versts

Burn river, 30

Makmal, 27 ;

versts

Djar-

;

Kuragaty, 20 versts

Djidel rivulet, 30 versts.

;

;

It-

Bata-

Well in the Steppe, 23 versts Lake Alakul, 22 versts

tashmir river, 22 versts of

Nearer the Chu, there are

reeds.

versts, or

Su, 20 versts

many weHs

Burumbai, &c.) Copses of the

Ak-urpek,

salines

sandy

this journey stretches over a

Steppe, in which, however, there are (at

of the

Suundyk.

Chu

(4)

some

for

;

;

Djir-

(part

Lake Balkhash)

The ground first

stage;

is

mostly even, the

grass

is

except

during the

good but becomes

scorched in hot weather.

The passage over the Chu

is

convenient, and the

Itinerary for Trans-IU

valley of the river

greater

is

and Chu.

overgrown with reeds.

517

The

part of the road runs across an even

Steppe.

Pass over the Khan-taii mountains.

Undulating ground

badly watered,

grass

toler-

able.

Gently undulating ground. Total,

276

Note.

Salines occur.

148 miles.

versts, or

This information was collected in 1859, in the

Trans-Ili region, from

country, and the

first

many

persons acquainted with the

three routes are founded on personal

knowledge of the region.

APPENDIX

II.

Astronomical determinations

of points in Eastern

Turkestan and Dzungaria were made by European missionaries,

members

of

a learned

commission,

formed in the reign of the Emperor Tsian-lun, describing the

China on the

then newly

country,

AA\^st.

The

first

annexed to

commission, which

was organized

in

was under the

direction of He-ho-tszun

1755

for

for exploring

Dzungaria, ;

and the

second, which explored Turkestan, was headed by

The

Min-hotu. extracted

following

have

heen

by M. Zakharof from the book

of Si-

yui-tu-chji,

figures

and other sources, and

differ in

some

.

Appendix II.

519

portions from Klaproth's " Carte

trale"

of

de I'Asie Cen-

1836:—

Peom the Book of

Si-Tiri-Tr-CHJi.

North

On Southern An-Si line Tszia-yu-huan barrier

:

—

.

Yui-min town Tszin-ni

town

Lu-hou-pu station Chan-ma, river source Dan-chen town

.

.

An-si-chjeu Hua-clijeu, new station Ma-len-tszin station

Dun-huan town Has lake

On An-Si Northern Ban-chi-tsuan station Sin-Sin defile Talnatszin station

line :-

-

.

Tugurik village Hara-hot Sun-shu station Nan-shan-keu pass .

.

Hami (Komul) town Mu-cheu town

.

.

Kara-tinbe station

Ha-shua station Barkul town

.

Habtak, station at mountain of Baitak mountain TJlau-usu station

....

Murui station Kitai town Hu-clieu town

:

520

:

Travels in Central Asia.

North Latitude.

In TJrvmtsi

district

Tazimsa station

44° 43° 44° 43° 44° 44° 44° 44°

.

Urumtsi town Foo-kian town Chau-ki town Loklon station

.

.

Tan-balgasun station

Manas

(Sui-lai)

.

An-tszi-hai station

Northern Thian-shan Kur-kara-usu town Tszin-ho station Chaban-baisin village

In

.

....

Ket-hobok village Narin-hobok village village

Chuguchak town Emil village Chor village In

the

Hi

region

—

Kunges, source of river Kash, „ Yuldus, „ Euldja (Hi, Hoi-yuan) town Karatal, point on river Hongor-olon (Kunur-ulen) point 7 on river i .

.

Edemok settlement Chu river, point on Talas river, point on

.

.

.

.

.

a 45' 3'

17' 20' 18'

89° 88° 88° 87° 87° 86° 86° 85°

22' 18'

24'

47' 45' 39'

25' 49'

44° 24' 44° 33' 44° 32'

85° 19' 83° 43' 83° 16'

47° 10'

87° 48'

—

the Tarlagatai district

confluence of the two Irtysh 7 J sources Ulan-huehjir village

Nam

9'

27'

line

.

At

Longitude East of Greenwich.

.

46° 15'

:

:

: ::

Apjpendi.r II.

On

Southern

Thian-Shan

In Pichiisan

Hun

—

district

village

Toho or Taku station Pichjan town Lukchak village

.

.

Ilalik village

Turfan town Chjoha-hoto settlement

In Kharashar Chuhoi village Karashahr town Knrunle station

Tugur

district

—

.

village

In KucJii district Tohanai station

—

.

Mouth

of the Kizyl, at the Toibolady village

Ukend

Shah-yar town

Kuche town

Kuke -puyun Eshik-bashi station (lehke-bashi)

In the Sairam

district

Kizyl station Sairam town Hara-IIsu station Bai town Tailgan village .

.

—

.

.

.

In

—

the Aksii district

Ilgatsi

Uchj ama

.

village

Aksu town

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Chjaerge (Cbjaekde) village

521

—

:

522

)

: :

Travels hi Central Asia.

Longitude East of Greenwich.

North Latitude.

In the TJsh district UBh-Turfan town

— 41° 6' 41° 1' 39° 50'

Seferbai village

Sogon

village

In the Kashgar district Kizyl-bni station

.

Osli

station

(Haoche)

In the Yarkend

Duva

77° 46' 77° 21' 75°

4'

38° 38° 38° 39° 89° 40°

30'

36° 36° 37° 39° 37° 38° 37° 37° 37°

52'

36° 36° 36° 36° 37° 37°

58'

29'

75° 75° 74° 73° 73° 73°

19'

47' 25'

52' 17'

.1'

23' 48' 32' 22'

—

district

village

8an-chju town Kuh^-yar (Kok-yar) village

Barchuk town

Ak-Alyk village Yarkend town

'

;

Toprak (Topuluk) station Tanyishalir (Ingashar) town Kashgar town

Aragu

I

.

Saralyk (Serlek) village Karciiu town Serikul (S. extremity)

58' 7'

15'

41' 19'

48' 11'

48'

79° 78° 77° 76° 76° 76°

6'

26' 11'

38' 25' 3'

73° 49' 73° 41' 73° 49'

—

In the Khotan district In the Kerya, or Keldya, town

Tak town

.

Chare or Tsirle village Yurun-kash village

Khotan town Kara-kash vOlage

Feom the Book Chan-ma

Dan

38°

.

Sarten lake, from 38° 50' 110° 47' long., to

lat.,

i lake, from 40° 30' lat.,"? 105° 57' long., to ) „ .

Lob-nor

47'

52' 0'

10'

82° 82° 81° 80° 80° 80°

of Si-tui-shtji-das-tszl.

river, source of

river, source of

13'

.

48' 28' 31'

36' 21' 2'

523

Appendix II.

Longitude East of Greenwich.

North Latitude.

42°

Bosten-nor lake Karatala-isliek lake, or Bulhatzinor, from 44° 35' lat., 100° 42' Ipng. (?)

.

.

44° 46'

of Kash or Hi Source of Great Tuldus Source of Kizyl-su Confluence of Kizyl-su and Mu- X zart into the Yarkend-Dariai Sburce of S. Muzart river Mouth of E. Aksu Source of Turun-kash Source of Kara-kast Kara-kul lake, from 88°21' long, to .

.

Source of Derbichuk river

FiiOM THE

of Yellow Eiver to 7 i the "W.est At entrance of Yellow Eiver) .

into China lake,

100° 13' long.

>

.

from 36°

6'

lat.] i

.

source of At confluence of Haidii-golo') J with the Tarim Little Serten lake

Bulungir

43° 43° 42° 42°

83° 33'

river,

.

.

45'

81° 53'

41' 45' 20'

81° 43' 81° 3'

41° 25'

82°

3'

42° 20' 40° 4' 36° 0' 30° 0' 44° 10' 43° 45'

79° 81" 81° 80° 72° 71°

53'

Book of Hk- YUAJT-

At bend

Huhunor

?

.

Confluence of Kunges and Tene.s

Month

87° 44'

8'

8'

13' 5'

23' 53'

?

APPENDIX Mar che- route from from

Bokhara,

1831

hy a

Turfan a

Chinese

verbal

Seventy

lis

:

Kmhgar statement

inhabitant

of the first-named town.

First night-halt

to

III.

By

Little

made

in

{Ma-tiang-shi)

Goliibef*

Turfan.

from Tnrfan, a Chinese picket;

military force here consists of forty *

in

the

Chinamen

During the wars of Madali-Khan of Kokan, with the

Chinese in 1830, conducted in Little Bokhara to the disadvantage of the latter, several Chinamen were taken captives and detained at Kokan. Many of these arrived at Orenburg with a Khivan caravan, intending to return through Russia to their native country. Every possible assistance was rendered them, and the staff of the Orenburg corps took advantage of their arrival by endeavouring to obtain from them some information concerning the unknown re"ions of

;

535

Appendiss III.

and

fifty

Chinese. fort,

The commander

Kashgarians.

They

such as

is

live

all

together in a

little

vcater

itself in

the sand not far

this picket.

Second night-halt

Eighty

They

from a rivulet issuing from the

mountains, and losing

from

The

and do

not live with their families at the stations. obtain

stone

built at every picket station.

soldiers are relieved every three years,

lis^^from

sists of

:

Tiigusun.

Turfan

the picket

;

Chinese, like at Turfan,

a settlement of

Kashgarians,

or.

and

guard con-

close to

is

carried on here

The settlement

is

situated on the

rivulet as the

Third night-halt

Eighty

lis

:

all

Turfan picket.

Subash.

from Tugusun

in the hills.

Central Asia.

A

goods

considerable trade in in the shops.

it is

which does not

contain more than 500 or ,600 inhabitants.

same

a

is

Water

is

;

a picket and small fort

obtained from weUs.

Unfortunately, only a few of the statements

of Ma-tiang-shi must be accepted as deserving of credit

the other accounts being both contradictory and doubtful. These, however, were taken down as being to a certain extent instructive,

and the manuscript has since been preserved in

the Siberian Archives.

;

52G

Travels in Central A.ma.

Fourth night-halt

One hundred and in

Okhobula.

:

thirty Us

A

the mountains.

where

to Subash,

Filth night-halt

from Subash rivulet nnis

a picket

;

from here

loses itself in the sand.

it

Kumysh.

:

One hundred and

forty

from Okhobula

lis

;

picket.

Bread and water brought from the mountains,

and sold

at

between

Okhobula

specially

constructed

Kumysh

picket

three different stages on the road

Between the for the

lis

the

for

purpose.

water

obtains

in

from

houses

The wells.

caravans f)-equently halt

stations

night at these houses for sprhig water.

sixth night-halt

Ninety

and Kumysh,

:

from

Yii.sJniku.

Kumysh

settled residents, in

picket

five

oi'

from the town of Aksii.

also a picket with

;

si.\

houses removed

Wells, are here

dug

for

water.

Seventh night-halt; ;iiOne

a

himdrcd picket

and

and

permanently

Vshtala.

si.v;

twenty or

occupied

lis

seven

by

from houses

traders

Yushuku adjoining,

who have

;

Appendw HI. from

here

settled

house

is

kind

also

in

which are

of black

pea

demanded here

habitants

each

at

A

small

the

three

parts.

of

on the road between Yushuku

different stages

a

different

constructed

and Ushtala,

527

horses

for

for well

and troops

at

and

bread

sold

money

;

is

The

water.

in-

Ushtala obtain water

from springs. Eighth night-halt

Sixty

lis

:

OMng-Shui-Hoza.

from Ushtala

with occupants, of the

who

;

a picket and twenty houses are obliged to furnish twenty

men composing

forty

other twenty are Chinese.

the

guard

This place

on a rivulet bearing the name of the

is

the

:

situated

and

station,

flowing to the town of Kara-Shagiar. Ninth night-halt

Seventy

lis

SJiu-at-Hoza.

:

from the

picket station

last

and a settlement consisting of wells

dug

rivulet

remains to the

for

water.

;

thirty

a picket

houses

The Ching-shui-Hoza

left.

Within ten

from

lis

Ching-shui-Hoza picket the road traverses

this

rivulet across a bridge.

Tenth night-halt

Seventy

lis

:

Kara-Shagiar.

from Shu-at-Hoza

;

a

large

town

in-

528

Travels in Central Asia.

habited by Chinese. Kalmyks live in huts about the town under the government of a viroman of ovfu

their

amounts an

to

lies

of troops here

500 men; there are and

arsenal,

town

The number

race.

between two

500 shops,

magazine.

This

rivers, the first the

Ching-

povrder

a

also^

shui-Hoza, a small stream, the second the large

and navigable Kei-du-Hoa. The in

boats on the road to Kashgar, in the

Eleventh night-halt

Eighty

Kei-du-Hoa town

Hiu-Chan.

river is

crossed at one

the current of the river

;

bank.

chan,

of

There are A\'hom

from the

towards the

Hiu-

maintained

and

fifteen

by Mussulmen

houses.

Spring water.

:

is

li

The

thirty-li\'e soldiers at

billeted

Twelfth night-halt

A

:

from the town of Kara-Shagiar.

lis

first

from Kara-Shagiar.

stage, not far

left

latter is crossed

are

occupying here

fifteen

KogoU.

small town inhabited by Mussulmen, ninety

from Hiu-Chan, on the Shiui-Dalie issues

are

from the mountains on the

200

soldiers.

lis

rivulet,

which

right.

There

Appendix HI. Thirteenth night-halt

One hundred ment

lis

Bwgur.

:

from Kogole

consisting of

sulmen

Eighty

A

mountains on the

Fourteenth night-halt lis

rivulet runs right.

a picket and settlement,

;

Spring water.

agriculturists.

:

Tohania.

One hundred and twenty

lis

from Ara-Batai

picket and settlement of thirty houses.

men

Seventy

lis

:

;

a

Mussul-

Spring water.

inhabitants.

Sixteenth night-halt

by here

houses occupied by Mussulmen

fifty

Fifteenth night-halt

a picket and settle-

Ara-Batai.

:

from Bugur

consisting of

;

200 houses occupied by Mus-

agriculturists.

fr'om the

529

KucMa.

from Tokania

;

a very large town, com-

posed of 100,000 houses, occupied by Mussul-

men

;

river

which

600 Chinese runs is

lis

The Hi-shu-Hoa and

the

fort,

garrisoned by the Chinese.

Seventeenth night-halt

Seventy

soldiers.

between the town

:

Yang-shiui-Ku.

from the town of Kuchia

;

a picket and

;

530

Traoch

in Central Aaia.

settlement of thirty houses, occupied by Mussul-

men.

Spring water.

Eighteenth night-halt

Yareng-Ku.

:

*

One hundred and

thirty hs

from Yaug-shui-Ku

a picket and settlement of thirty houses, situated

on a

rivulet.

Nineteenth night-halt: Biai-Chin.

Eighty

lis

from Yareng-Ku

()0,()00 houses,

to

;

a large

on a rivulet flowing from right

The Chinese garrison

left.

town with

consists

of

400

men.

Twentieth night-halt: Yar-Dju-Ku.

Sixty

lis

from the t(jwn of Biai-Chin, a picket and

settlement of thirty houses

Twenty -first -Ninety

lis

night-halt

Hala-

:

from the Yar-Dju-Ku

Twenty-second night-halt lis

spring water.

Yiif/uii.

settlement of thirty houses

Ninety

;

:

;

;

a

picket -and

spring water.

Zamyn.

from the Hala-Yugun picket

and settlement

of

1

00 houses, on a

;

a picket

rivulet.

Appendix III. Twenty-third night-halt

Ninety

Aksu.

:

Zamyn

from the

lis

531

picket; an

town, taled at 500,000 houses.

The Kum-Bash,

a large river, runs westwards past the is

immense

town

;

it

not crossed on the route here described. There

are

700

soldiers in the town.

Twenty-fourth night-halt

Forty

lis

Ytmg-Aryk.

:

from the town of Aksu

;

a picket and

settlement of thirty houses on the banks of the

Kizyl-Su

river,

which flows from Kashgar.

Twenty-fifth night-halt

Seventy

lis

Yan-Ali.

:

from Yany-Aryk

ment composed

;

a picket and

settle-

500 houses on the same

of

river

(Kizyl-Su.)

Twenty-sixth night-halt

140

lis

from Yau-Ah

Shisian-Han.

:

a picket and settlement of

;

twenty houses on the same river (Kizyl-Su.)

Twenty- seventh night-halt

Seventy

ment Su.)

lis

:

8hiagim--Tang.

from Shisian-Han

;

of thirty houses on the

a picket

same

and

settle-

river (Kizyl-

532

Travels in Central Asia.

Twenty-eighth night-halt

Eighty

from Shiagiar-Tang

lis

ment

SJiiji-Tcmg (or Shiai-Tang.)

:

a picket and settle-

;

of thirty houses on the

same

river (Kizyl-

Su.)

Twenty-ninth night-halt: Shi-Tang.

Sixty

from Shiji-Tang

lis

same

of thirty houses on the

Thirtieth night-halt

Eighty

consisting of

which

a large curve is

river (Kizyl-Su.)

a picket and settlement

;

200 houses

(Kizyl-Su), vFhich, in

makes

and settlement

Yany-Djan-Tkhaidze.

:

from Shi-Tang

lis

a picket

;

its

on

the

same

river

course from Kashgar,

and approaches the

road,

Proceeding from Turfan

straight.

to

Kashgar, the river beyond Yany-Djan-Tkhaidze runs far to the right of the road.

Thirty-first night halt

Seventy

ment

lis

:

from the

Tkhu-Thhiai. last place

of thirty houses.

Thirty-second night-halt:

Seventy

ment

lis

;

a picket and settle-

Wells dug

for water.

TTr-TkJiiai.

from Tkhu-Tkhiai

of thirty houses.

;

a picket and settle-

Wells dug

for water.

Appendix III. Thirty-third night-halt

Sixty

lis

San Tkhiai.

:

from Ur-Tkhiai

Thirty-fourth night-halt lis

ment of

U-Tkhiai.

:

Seventy

lis

lis

lis

Chu

Tkhiai.

a picket and settlement

;

:

Pa

from Chu-Tkhiai

Thirty -ninth night-halt lis

:

river.

Tkhiai.

;

a picket and settle-

ment of seventy houses, on the same

Ninety

river.

100 houses, on the same

Thirty-eighth night-halt

Eighty

:

from Liu-Tkhiai

consisting of

a picket and settlement

;

100 houses, on a small

Thirty-seventh night-halt

Ninety

natural springs.

Liu Tkhiai.

:

from U-Tkhiai

consisting of

a picket and settlement

;

Water from

of thirty houses.

Thirty-sixth night-halt

a picket and settle-

;

Wells are dug for water.

thirty houses.

from Sy-Tkhiai

lis

and settlement

8y-Tkhiai.

:

from San- Tkhiai

Thirty-fffth night-halt

Ninety

a picket

;

Wells dug for water.

of thirty houses.

Eighty

533

river.

Ywrkend.

from Pa-Tkhiai

;

an immense town, con-

534

Travels in Central Asia.

taining 300,000

houses, situated on the liver

(?)

Sa-Koa, flowing on the military force in the

left side

town

The

of the road.

1000

of

consists

sol-

town

diers.

Ma-Tiang-Shi

Yarkend

to be five times as large again as Oren-

burg, where there are

Fortieth night-halt

Seventy

lis

:

the

considers

of

500 houses.

1

Ta-Lian.

from the town of Yarkend

;

a picket

and settlement composed of 400 houses, on a small river.

Forty-first night-halt

Eighty

lis

:

Tun-Clian.

from the Ta-Lian settlement

and settlement of seventy

houses,

;

a picket

on

small

a

river.

Forty-second night-halt: Tir-Chan.

Eighty

ment

lis

from Tun-Chan

consisting of

;

a picket and settle-

200 houses.

Water

is

here

obtained from springs.

Forty-third night-halt

Eighty

lis

.

Tala- Uba.

from Tir-Chan

consisting of

400

;

a picket and settlement

houses, on a small river.

Appendix III. Forty fourth night-halt

Eighty

lis

:

535

Ycmyshahr.

from Tala-Uba

;

a large town on the

Daria River, flowing on the

left side

Ak-

of the road.

In the town there are 300 soldiers.

Forty-fifth night-halt

One hundred

lis

Pian Gho.

:

from the town of Yanyshahr

picket and settlement consisting of

on a small

lis

containing

Kizyl-Su large

bend

a

100 houses,

river.

Forty-sixth night-halt

Seventy

;

Kashgar.

:

from Pian-Cho

160,000 river,

an immense town,

;

houses,

situated

on the

which runs from here with

to the

Yany-Aryk

picket,

a

and thence

along the above road to Yany-Djan-Tkhaidze.

The

military force in this

town numbers 1500

men.

The

night-halts

are

indicated

herein

pickets and in the settlements

;

at

the

but some of the

stages of the road are so long that caravans are

sometimes unable to perform them in a single day,

and are obliged to halt

for the night

on the road.

For this reason the distance from Turfan toKashgar is

reckoned a passage of fifty-eight days instead of

forty-six.

APPENDIX

Notes

By

IV.

on the Intercourse of Bitssia G. Kilhlewehi, Secretary

Mission

[Note.

Ignatiefs

Col.

to

Khiva.

with

Central Asia.

to

— Since

tlie

foregoing was

type,

in

attention

has been directed to the accompanying

paper whicli

important, both in itself and from the

official

the writer, that no apology the Appendix, although

its

is

is

so

position of

needed for including

it

in

proper position would of course

have been after Chapter III.]

Khiva was back

as the

in 1

communication with Russia

4th century, but the

first

as far

official in-

tercourse between those countries of which there

any authentic record took place reign of

Ivan

the Terrible,

in

after

is

1557, in the the

taking

of

Appendix IV.

537

Kazan, when Khivan Ambassadors arrived at the Court of the Tsar to ask Russia.

1563,

Similar

1566,

relations

and

for liberty to trade

Moscow,

missions visited

The

1583.

with

present

in

political

between Russia and Khiva may be said to

date from the latter part of the 17th century, since

when the Khivans have had

recourse to frequent

missions and been profuse in gifts and promises of allegiance,

when

sent

to

appease

the

dis-

pleasure of the Russian Sovereign for ravages com-

mitted on their frontiers nation of

own

their

;

but strong in the imagi-

defied the

power

evil

practices,

and

of Russia, until recalled to reason

by imminent dangers

The

the Khivans

inaccessibility,

have always returned to their

Tsars, on the

of chastisement.

other hand, have alternately

used conciliations and threats in the pursuit of their favourite object, that of opening a trade with

India through the countries of Turkestan. early part of the 17th century the

Khivans com-

plained of the inroads of the Ural Cossacks, this

day

retain the traditions of their

against Khiva.

In the

who to

campaigns

In 1602, the Cossacks even took

Khiva, but were defeated on their return thence. In 1622, Afghan, the

Khan

of Khiva, expelled

by

his. relations, sought the protection of Tsar Michael

N N

—

53y

Travels in Central Asia.

Fedorovitch, and oiFered,

become

to

A latter

a vassal of Russia.

Khivan envoy presented

1700, a

in

restored to his dignity,

if

letter

asked the Tsar to receive the allegiance of

By

letter to the

The Moscow

subsequently in 1703 by a

it

new Khan

Arak Ahmet.

Khiva,

of

Journal, of April, 1703, contained the

following notice on this subject

OLir

a letter of the 30th

intimated his compliance with that

Peter

request, confirming

"

Great

from Khan Shamaz, in which the

the people subject to him. July,

to Peter the

The Khan

of

Khiva has sent

High Lord and

:

his

Ambassadors to

King, requesting the High

Lord to allow him, the Khan of Khiva, with those

under

allegiance

his

to

dominionsj

to

render for ever

His IMajcsty the Tsar, which om'

Sovereign Lord has graciously granted, and sends his Ambassador to the

At

this

all

time

Khan

now

of Khiva."

there were reports of gold sand

being found on the Amu-Daria (Oxus), the Caspani

mouths of which were

said to be purposely filled

up by the Khivans, and the Aral

the

;

and that

it

its

waters deflected into

would be easy

dams erected by the Khivans and

river to

its

ancient

iiy

to restore the

This hitelligence was

bed.

brought to Astrakhan

to destroy

a

Tm-kman

called Hodja-

Appendix IF.

539

At AstrakHan, Nefes made the acquaint-

Nefes.

ance of Prince Samonof, a native of Ghilian, converted to Christianity, w^ith

whom

he

set out in

1713, for Moscow, to propose to the Emperor that

he should

seize,

with assistance of the Turkmen,

the country bordering the Oxus, then in the possession of the Uzbeks.

of Siberia, arrived in

Prince Gagarin, Governor

Moscow

the same year with a

report to His Majesty on the gold sands of Little

Bokhara.

Hodja-Nefes and Prince Samonof were

presented to the Emperor by Prince BekovitchCherkaski, Captain of the body-guard, and in great favour with the Emperor.

Envoy then

at the

Ashur-Bek, the Khivan

Russian Court, confirmed the

report about the gold sand of the

mained

at St. Petersburg,

Oxus

he

;

re-

from 1713 to 1715, and

He was

enjoyed the favour of Peter the Great.

also very intimate with Prince Gagarin, voivode of Siberia.

Ashur-Bek suggested that Peter the Great should construct at the old

on Krasnovoda

1000 men, and

spit,

mouth

of the

Oxus, probably

a fort capable of containing

told His

Majesty, that the

would not oppose the destruction

of the

Khan

dams

re-

ported to have been constructed, nor the restoration of the

Amu

to its former bed.

N N 2

;

540

Travels in Central Asia.

This Envoy was dismissed from in

1715, the

St.

Petersburg,

Emperor giving him among other

presents for the

Khan

six

guns with everjrthing

complete, and a considerable quantity of powdef

but these were taken away and the Envoy temporarily detained at

Astrakhan in consequence of a

revolution at Khiva.

Yadi-ber had died in 1714,

and was succeeded by Khan Arang, of the Karakalpak tribe,

who was

in his tm'n replaced

by Khan

Shirgazi of Bokhara.

In a letter of the 5th March, 1715, to Chirikof, the

CoDxmandant of Astrakhan, Ashur-Bek, writes

that he

was commissioned by the Emperor Peter

to go to

India

for

the purchase of parrots and

panthers. It is probable that Peter,

wishing to ascertain

the nearest route to India, and to establish commercial relations with that rich coimtry

(as

further

indicated in the subsequent appointment of Lieu-

tenant Kojin and the

Bek on

Murza

Tevkele), sent Ashur-

a mission of that kind, who, after

the necessary purchases in India,

turned to

St.

was

making

to have re-

Petersburg.

In the year 1716, Prince Bekovitch Cherkaski (of Circassia),

was sent

as

envoy to Khiva and

Bokhara, to inquire about the gold, the East Indies,

Appendix IV.

541

the trade of those countries, and other local

Many

cumstances.

survey the Caspian

officers

cir-

were sent with him to

and Aral

seas,

and

for other

Prmce Samonof and Hodja-Nefes were

purposes.

hkewise with him, and the rest of his suite consisted of merchants from Astrakhan

and other parts of

Russia, Tartars, and Bokharians, numbering about

200 men.

On

he received an

river,

Emperor

Emba

the road, after passing the

autograph order from the

to send to India, through Persia, a

man

acquainted with the language of these countries in

whom

confidence might be placed, and

collect information larly

who

should

about this country, and particu-

about the rivers where gold was reported to

abound, returning to Russia by way of China and Bokhara.

The

Murza Tevkelef was accordingly

barbarous

murder,

in

1717,

of

sent.

Prince

Bekovitch* at Porsu, a town about seventy miles

N.W.

of Khiva, in which, however, the

Khan

Bokhara was not implicated, put an end to

of

their

enterprise.

During the reign of the Empress Anne,

in

1731,

Colonel Erdberg was sent as envoy to Khiva, but * His head was stuffed with hay and sent to the Emir of The soldiers forming the ex-

Bokhara, in token of victory.

pedition were either murdered or reduced to slavery.

Chap.

II., p. 24.

Vido

542

Travels in Coilral Asia.

being pillaged on the road, he was obliged to return

Nine years

unsuccessful.

1740, the

in

after,

Khivans invited Abdul-Kaira, then Chief of the Lesser Horde of Kirghizes, subject to Russia since

1730, to reign over them as Khan, and he was

On

accordingly elected.

assuming the sovereignty

of Khiva, Abdul-Haira declared the

subject to Russia, thinking

by

the march of Nadir, Shah of

way

At

to attack him.

Russian

officers at

that

Khanat

means

to be

to arrest

Persia, then on his

that time there were

the Coiu't of the

Khan

two

— Lieu-

tenant Gladishef and a topographical engineer of the

name

of Muravin.

They had been

sent at the

request of Abdul-Haira to build a town at the mouth of the Syr-Daria

make

(laxartes).

a preliminary

Khan

finding the

Khiva.

smvey

at his

of the locality, but not

Muravin was then sent by the Khan

was

no

of

avail,

to

Horde, they proceeded to

meet Nadir Shah, and ask cession

They had orders

for

to

mercy, but his inter-

and the Shah soon

after

took Khiva by assault.* In

1750,

Elizabeth,

during the reign

the

of

the

Empress

Khivans proposed, through

their

* See account of Giadishef s and Muravin's Journey from

Orsk to Kbiva and back, in 1851.

IT-lO-il.

Ed. by Khanikof in

Appendix IV. envoy,

an

Ir-Bek,

intimate

543

alliance

with their

This did not, however, prevent a Russian

country.

caravan from being pillaged the following year.

Doctor or Major Blankenagel was sent to Khiva in

1792, by the Empress Catherine

special request of the

II.,

the

at

Being persecuted by

Khan.

the latter for his inability to cure blindness, he was

and returned

obliged to

flee for his

by way

Mangyshlak and Astrakhan.

of

life,

to Russia

After Abdul-Haira another subject of Russia was

chosen

Khan

Khiva,

of

Abdul-Haira.

namely Nurali, son of

1750 Khiva was governed by

In

Kaip, a Kirghiz Sultan, also subject to Russia

;

and

even to the year 1800 the Inekhs or successors, were always elected from

among Kirghiz and Karakalpak

princes subject to Russia,

who

to this

day are the

sole lawful heirs to the throne of Khiva,

the "white bone," as descendants of

When

Genghis-Khan.

present century,

Kharesm, ceased,

the

of

between

of

title

Khiva

of to

and was even replaced by an

policy. This is

reign

at the beginning of the

and took the subjection

Mahommed and

an Uzbek prince,

Iltizer,

subdued the petty princes

more

being of

Khan

of

Russia offensive

particularly remarkable in the

Mahommed Rahim, brother of Iltizer, 1801 and 1834. He began by subjecting

544

Travels in Central Asia.

the Aral territory,

now no

longer in existence, and

oppressed in various ways the Kirghizes tributary

He made

to Russia.*

away their

cattle,

inroads on the

Horde was compelled

whole of the Lesser

to pay tribute to the

of Khiva.

At the time

Rahim,

1824, the Khivan

of the death of

actually

subject

to

Khan

Mahommed

Khanat, says M.

Khanikof, possessed already the form of unity,

drove

and induced whole camps to enter

his dominions, so that at last the

in

latter,

the

ruler

of

political

Khiva,

acquiring thereby a certain amount of political importance.

success

if

But

this

reform, although

compared with the previous

Khanat, was nevertheless not latter

a decided state of the

sufficient to

make

important either as an enemy or an

ally

the of

Russia.

The

insolence of the

ever, so great

Khans

of

Khiva was, how-

on several occasions, that Russia was

more than once on the point Twice, in

of

fact, viz., in

of punishing them.

1801 and 1804, the seizure

Khiva had been ordered by the Emperors Paul

* The Aral territory, lying to tHe Soutb of the Aral, was

long independent, but at last became tributary to Khiva in

Mahommed Eahim. The majority of its popuwas composed of Uzbeks, but there was a considerable number of Karakalpaks and Kirghizes. the reign of lation

—

Appendix IF.

545

and Alexander, but the expeditions were delayed, owing

to

some disturbances

country, although in

Orenburg

the

in

1803 the Khivans disputed

the passage of a Russian mission to Bokhara under

Lieutenant Gaverdovsky, from Orsk.

Captain (afterwards General) Muravief travelled in

1819 and 1830 from Mangishlak Bay,

in the

Caspian, to Khiva, having been sent, together with

a Bashkir

official,

to negotiate with the

Khan

they were unsuccessful, and Muravief, after

;

but

bemg

detained some time a prisoner, narrowly escaped

with his

life.*

In order to put an end to the depredations of the * In 1835 the Russian Government, finding that they could not put an end to the intrusions of the Khivans, and the excesses which they committed,

resolved

on

more

rigorous measures, and seized a site near Mangishlak on the

Eastern shore of the Caspian, opposite Astrakhan, and built a fort which commanded the landing places in the bay. This gave great offence to TJUah Kuli-Khan, who remonstrated strongly,

and

failing here threatened to

plundering parties more numerous than before.

send out

He

comKhiva about the division of his country, but they gave him no assistance, while they admitted the justice of his demand. The E.ussians, shortly after occupying the Eastern bank of the Caspian, sent out a reconnoitring party of about 120 men, under two men of rank. They were all brought to Urgendj and sold as slaves in Bokhara and Kokan, notwithstanding the remonstrances of the Emperor of Russia. Buenes. plained to the

Khans

of Bokhara and

—

546

Travels in Central Asia.

Khivans and

made on

to liberate the

many prisoners

the Caspian and on the Orenburg line of

Emperor Nicholas ordered,

frontier, the

an embargo to be laid on

all

in

Siberia,

called

upon

numbering

In return for these the

to give

several

up

his

Khan

Russian prisoners,

hundred men, and cease

offensive measures towards Russia.

were not to be

Orenburg

Astrakhan, or within any of the

dominions of Russia.

was

in 1836,

Khivan traders and

their goods, found on the frontier lines of

and

they had

carried on between the

The Khivans

was any trade

released, nor

two

all

to be

countries, until these

conditions had been fulfilled.

The Khivan

traders in Russia* were accordingly

detained, in August, 1836, on their return from the fair of

the the

Nijni-Novgorod.

The Governor- General

of

Orenburg country then informed Allah-Kul,

Khan

of

Mahommed

Khiva from 1824

to

1840

(a

son of

Rahim), of the measures which had

been adopted by the Emperor, and demanded the restoration of

all

the Russian prisoners and the im-

mediate suspension of his

evil

designs against Russia,

* These are said to have been forty-six in number.

This

summary proceeding gave great offence to the Chiefs Turkestan, who at once commenced a system of retaliation. BUENES.

of

547

Appendix IV. threatening the retention of the

Khivan traders

with their goods, and the interruption of mercial intercourse, carried out.*

these

until

The first effect

conditions

Khan was ready

prisoners, if

month of

to deliver his Russian

Russia liberated the Khivan traders

and destroyed 'Fort Caspian.

were

The Khivan messenger declared

January, 1837. the

com-

of these measures was

the arrival of a courier with letters, in the

that

all

Novo-Alexandrovsk

The Khivans were

on

the

told that the traders

would only be released on the return of the Russians detained

in

Khiva; and their insolent demand

respectingFort Novo-Alexandrovsk was treated with silence.

year,

In the month of November of the same

Kabul-Bai arrived

at

Orenburg

as

envoy from

Russian prisoners and

Khiva, bringing twenty

five

considerable presents.

His son was amongst the

Khivans detained

at

Orenburg.

* Greneral Perovsky wrote the 18th September, 1836

seed produces bad

fruit.

:

—

"

If

The Khan,

as follows to the

finding

Khan on

Tour actions are bad, and bad you wish to come to your

your Russian prisoners at once, and promise to conduct yourself peacefully and amicably in future do not countenance rapine and murder, nor interfere senses in time, return

all

;

with the gOTernment of the Kaisals; people give the subjects of the Emperor of Russia the privileges His Majesty ;

gives to yours in his

forgotten."

own

dominions, and the past will be

548 that

Travels in Centred Asia.

subjects were

his

well

treated

thought he would get out of his

and that

collect the prisoners,

they would be liberated. the Russians

who

afraid of being

made

to

first

It

if

any

still

returned that the

Kun This

and that he would be

numerous robberies Russians

why he

Kabul-Bai.

satisfaction

caravans, or even

who had

died in captivity.

only sent twenty-five prisoners by

The envoy was

sent back the

that the

by Russia would not be modified, of all the prisoners

these

for the

of

month with the answer

until

after ful-

pay Kun, or the price of blood,

for all is

Khan was

met with other demands conditions,

remained

was ascertained from

murder of Prince Bekovitch, and give for the

by the

difficulty

taken some trouble to

the Russians that he had

the

Russia,

some cunning, and accordingly assured

exercise of

filling

m

would be

same

demands made that the release

insisted on,

demands were complied

and

with,

that

every

Khivan subject entering the dominion of Russia

would be detained, and kept

until a general ex-

change of prisoners took place.

two in

years, scarcely

1

After

waiting

00 men were restored, while

1839 about 200 and more fishermen had been

seized on the Caspian. It

was now evident that the

interests of Russia,

549

Appendix IV.

the prosperity of her trade, and the well-being of

her subjects, could only be secured by more active measures.

On

declaration

was published

and

the 14th (36th November, 1839, a

Orenburg, of the causes

at

objects of the military operations against Khiva.

—"Just and

That document proceeded to say:

rea-

sonable considerations have induced His Majesty the

Emperor

to send a military force against

by

order to secure

of Russian

interests

and

pillage

force of

Khiva

in

arms the rights and

end to

subjects, to put an

rapine, to liberate prisoners then in

Khiva, to inspire the respect due to Russia, and to establish the influence indisputably belonging to her,

and which was the only guarantee

maintenance of

Such

is

the

peace

object

that

in

for the

portion of Asia.

of the intended

expedition

Khiva."

against

The

results

are

the

forces

winter,

known.

well

under

Leaving

General

in

Perovski

were obliged to return without reaching Khiva,

owing to the severe

The

snow.

and the depth of the

frost

expedition,

which numbered 5000

men, had nevertheless the

Khan

effect of

bringing the

to his senses, though temporarily.

summer prisoners.

of

1840

he released

Shakespere,

an

all

the

In the

Russian

English ofHcer

who

550

Travels in Central Asia.

had arrived

Khiva from Cabul

at

in 1839, under-

They

took to conduct the prisoners to Russia.

were about 400, and had been taken periods between

at various

Some

1780 and 1839.

them

of

occupied high positions in Khiva; thus one of them,

William Laurentief, was Chief of the

Ann

Artillery, while

Kostin, the wife of a soldier, acted as house-

keeper to

On

Khan AUah-Kul.

the 18th

issued

July,

1840, the

Khan

a proclamation or firman

of Khiva

abolishing

the

trade in Russian slaves, and prohibiting inroads into the Russian dominions releasing of the prisoners,

this,

;

coupled

was considered

w\.i\\

the

satisfac-

tory by the Russian Government, audit

was

deter-

mined

and

open

to

renew commercial

relations

negotiations with the Khivans.

Lieutenant Aitof, Avho had also been detained in Khiva, returned to Orenbiu-g before the arrival

of the other prisoners on the 18th (30th) October,

1840.

He

accompanied to

St.

Petersburg a Khi-

van envoy, Athanias, Hodja-Reis' Mufti, who brought a letter addressed to the Emperor, and returned in

the spring of after St.

1841.

There were three envoys

him from Khiva, but none

of

them went

to

Petersburg.

In 1841, Captain Nikiforof was despatched with

Appendix IV.

551

one of these envoys (Shinar Mahmet-Niaz), as agent, with instructions Khiva, and, treaty

;

if

to

re-establish

possible,

to

relations

with

make some kind

of

but he returned without success.

Colonel DanUevski, another diplomatic agent, was

He

sent to Khiva in 1842.

the

succeeded in making

treaty between Russia

first

his residence in

and Khiva. During

Khiva, AUah-Kul died, and was

succeeded by his son, Rahim-Kul.

and still

stipulations

were of no

continued to injure

avail.

But

treaties

The Khivans

Russia in the Kirghiz

Steppe, and endeavoured to strengthen themselves as

much as possible on Russia had been for fications.

the Syr-Daria (laxartes,) where

many

years past erecting forti-

The construction

of forts

Daria frightened the Khivans ciate the

of the

;

on the Syr-

they fully appre-

importance of the occupation of the bank

river,

saying that

if

the Russians are to

drink the waters of the Syr-Daria with them, they

can no longer

exist.

Since

the erection of Fort

Perovski, Khiva has evidently been afraid of open

war with Russia.

Thus she has always evaded

the invitation of an alliance with

Russians.

Kokan

against the

Without openly manifesting any un-

friendly disposition towards Russia,

Khiva never

ceased to avail herself of opportunities to injure

552

Travch

Russia in

Central Asia.

in

by continuing

secret,

to send spies

gatherers of tribute into the Steppe.

and

She urged

the thoughtless Kirghizes to a fanatical enmity to-

wards Russia, supported the insurrectionary tempt of Kenisar,

Iset

at-

Kutebar, Nazar and other

Kirghiz rebels, by promises of assistance in case of

open

rebellion.

In addition to her

own

disposition,

she was probably incited by Turkey, which was

by her envoys

in

1853 and 1854.

Since 1856, Khiva

is

governed by Said

visited

Mohammed Rahim, and brother Allah-Kul. He was elected to

med, son of Khan of the celebrated the

Khanat

election

in 185G,

at

age of thirty.

the

His

was preceded by many disturbances and

internecine wars present.

Moham-

;

but these have ceased for the

In 1857, Said

Mohammed

sent Fazil-

Hodja, the Sheikh- Ul-Islam of the Khanat, to an-

nounce his accession and

to

convey his condolence

on the death of the Emperor Nicholas, and

his con-

gratulation on the accession of the present Emperor.

THE END.

!•

I

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