The story of a pilgrimage to Hijaz (1909)

THE STORY OF A PILGRIMAGE TO H1JAZ. BY H. H. THE NAWAB SULTAN JAHAN BEGAM, G.C.T.E. RULER OF R HO PAL. CALCUTTA ...

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THE

STORY OF A PILGRIMAGE TO H1JAZ.

BY

H. H.

THE NAWAB SULTAN JAHAN BEGAM, G.C.T.E.

RULER OF

R HO PAL.

CALCUTTA

.

TIIAOKER, SPINK & CO. 1909.

BP 187

^ALCUlTA RINTEP BY THACKEK, Si INK AND :

J

^ 1

^(

ry OF TC

CO.

THE NAME OF THE MOST MERCIFUL GOD.

IN

INTRODUCTION.

8];

The Sua and Moon a common end pursue,

The way

is

one, the guiding stars are two.

Muhammad s 1*

Two

praiee

ia

!

c

Verily

God Almighty

orbs produce one

we

sight,"

JU

s

praise,

the poet eaya.

X5UVI

U-y

Bl

offered the Trust to the Heavens,

the Earth, and the Mountains, but they refused to

accept

it

and

man who undertook XXXIII, PH

were it."

afraid of

(Al

it.

Kuran,

was

It

Chapter

Verse 72). 1

THE STORY OF A

2

Human

nature, as interpreted in the light

of this sacred verse, resolves itself into a

number

of active emotions of which that which has

gion for

its

the strongest.

is

object

reli

emo

This

tion or sentiment, which in religious language

synonymous with

sincerity of belief or attraction

towards the Deity, in

intensity

present in greater

is

man.

every

It

is

this

power which impels a human being, as

it

for

their

Religion All

own is

men in

or other cerity

to

were,

perform

or

constitution.

Even the

the

sin

nature

of

common-place

of religion does not

happen to

cheerfully undergoes every incon

involved

systems of

human

appreciate

in

the

of the ritual of his faith. all

ceremonies

tenets with perfect

its

not.

mortal whose sense

venience

emotional

world profess a religion of some sort

whether they

be very keen

less

sake without any special object.

and follow

those tenets

or

instinctively

religious

a necessity of the this

is

belief

punctual

The

observance

votaries of almost

admit, in addition to their

ordinary places of worship, the existence of one sacred shrine, pilgrimage

to,

and worship

are of pre-eminent spiritual value.

in,

which

Pilgrims to

these places are regarded by their co -religionists

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. with special shrines

the

be cited

the

the People of the

the Hindus.

I

(Solomon

ITS of

to

propose

s

and

Book,

Mathura, and similar cent

of

such

Kaaba among

holy

Jerusalem

Musalmans,

among

As instances

veneration.

may

3

temple) Benares,

among

worship,

discuss

the

here

The

sacred shrine of the Musalmans. the KM aha. the

sanctity of a pilgrimage to

known by the name

of the Hajj,

articles of Islamic

cipal

who can

allonl to

formance of

it

make

the

"It

and upon

the pilgrimage, is

command to

requisite means, of

God"

1

those he per

To

obligatory. in this

undertake (Al

is

one of the prin

the duty of every man,

is

to the house

is

belief,

once in a lifetime

quote from the divine tion:

Kaaba, which

a

connec

who

lias

pilgrimage

Kuran, Chapter

111,

Every Musalman who is in arlluent circumstances is anxious to go on this pilgrimage. Verse 96).

While engaged in prayer ful into

which carries the faith

the presence of the Almighty,

importance of which divine words

wickedness

may

ct

verily,

and

faces

towards

selves

before the

vice"-

this

be gauged

prayer keeps a

Musal mans

shrine

and the born the

man from turn

their

and prostrate them

Almighty Creator.

THE STORY OF A Although persons in poor circumstances are

exempted from the obligation to go on pilgrimage* this sacred journey yet the duty of undertaking is

binding on those

who have

to speak of the fact that of

it is

the means.

the readiest means

acknowledging the blessings of Islam and the

best

and

contributing towards

of

way

development

spiritual

of Islam,

benefits

of the

community, the

is

a repository of secular and religious

whose name

is

legion

and which cannot

be comprehended by the ordinary

my

the religious

other fundamental ritual observances

Hajj, like

is,

Not

intellect.

It

however, beyond the scope of the record of journey to discuss these blessings.

There "travel

is

a

leads to

well-known success."

the civilised countries of the

by means

of travel are

present day.

determined

Arab saying that The blessings which world have enjoyed

everywhere manifest at the

The principal causes which have the progress of

civilisation

themselves into an exchange of ideas various branches of the crease of knowledge.

human

resolve

among

the-

race and the in

The Hajj enables Musal-

rnans to achieve these ends in the best possible

manner.

Men from

every corner of the habit-

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

5

on

this occasion,

able globe are gathered together

and, according to their respective tastes and re quirements, they can obtain information ing to the remotest

may

of the

parts

which

world,

be of use to them in their various pursuits.

The material

which

benefit

may

course

is

obvious.

whom

mankind

thus accrue to

by mutual

the vast concourse of pilgrims

of

relat

Moreover, the various

Kaaba draws

the

inter

races

together in

a spiritual bond obtain an insight into one ano ther

s social

and by comparing notes

condition,

gather ideas for such social reforms as are neces

The words

sary.

benefits ing.

and

may

of the holy

accrue to them,

The advantages it

of

Kuran, convey

so that this

mean

union are innumerable,

a principle which Islam has specially

is

inculcated on great Islamic brothers,"

all

its

In pursuance of the

followers.

doctrine

the

that

"

Musalmans

the

Faithful

of the

are

world con

stitute a single fraternity.

The Hajj

is

the best

means

of

strengthening

these fraternal bonds and the plain of Arafat

is

the spot where Musalmans can best cultivate one

another

s

acquaintance.

millions of

men

It

of all sorts

is

the place to which

and conditions resort

6

THE STORY OF A

from

different

unsewn

pieces of

of the

parts

It is there that

coming from

Adam

indelible

The Hajj

is

that

realise

of doing

of

in.

humility,,

homage

to God..

(Peace be upon him), after

Paradise into this world,

cognised his wife Eve.

makes an

wrapped

linen as a token

common object

with the

world,

The spectacle

impression

is

first

re

one which

upon the mind.

the best means of making Musalmans* all

In the sight of the

are equal.

Absolute Master of the Universe the poor and therich,

the beggar and the sovereign, are

all

alike,

are his servants.

all

For servitude our brow

is

branded,

Nothing can the mark efface, Went to God s abode the Prophet, Yet he could not take his

To

is

see all this, however, one

not everyone

is

who

but

it

possesses the gift of vision or

Cen

have passed, yet no human being has taken

with him from his

Ibn Batuta

of

home such power

the

Day

of the arts

of observation

Morocco and Ibn Zubair

Spain whose treasure of knowledge till

eyes,

blessed with the faculty of observation.

turies

as

must have the

Every one has two

of sight.

power

place.

will

Judgment on the neck and sciences. of

of

be borne

of the best

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Mecca has been the centre tion

from

Arabia

popular attrac

of

immemorial.

time

7

The

annals

oi

show that even before the advent

Islam this holy place was a shrine to which grims used to flock in large

M^-

of

\

pil

numbers and that

the same eagerness and enthusiasm marked their pilgrimage as at present. at once infer

which

of is

from

An

intelligent

become the centre

the result of some mysterious force.

that during the period of the Hajj

and

people

a

without

possible

to

that an led

general

were

holiness

will

this that the strong attraction

this sacred spot has

was stopped,

man

truce

enabled let

or

was

to

It

appears

all

fighting

proclaimed,

join

in

hinderance.

of

acts

It

is

im

conceive, except on the supposition

agency

mightier

the course of

events

than

man

control

at that time, that

a

people, indifferent to social or political restraints

and naturally

turbulent,

should,

holy months of the Hajj, so far of

their

ferocious

instincts as to

during

get the

the

better

be converted

suddenly into a body of peaceful and harmless citizens.

ly

Such a consummation

is

undoubted,

due to the blessings which God has showered on

the holy Kaaba, and to the prayer of the Prophet

THE STORY OF A

Abraham

(Peace be on

make this

City an abode

him

!)

who

said

"

God,

:

of peace.

The foregoing statement is intended, not to be a mere summary of historical events, but to

show that the inductive method

serves to sup

port the arguments that are brought forward to

prove the sacred obligation of the Hajj and the reverence to which the holy

As

for

Kaaba

the traditionary sanction, we

the saying of the Prophet:

"Do

is

entitled.

may

quote

not undertake

a pilgrimage to any shrine except three, the holy Kaaba, the sanctuary of Jerusalem, and my

mosque.

The veneration due to the Kaaba

also

is

proved by the following passage in the Kuran 6

God made

a resort

the

Kaaba

for the people.

He

a sacred house sanctified the

and ordained that

(of the Hajj)

it

:,-

and

month

should be the

period for offering sacrifices and (marking camels with) circlets

(round

their

This

necks).

to

is

make you understand that God knows what in heaven

and earth and that He

in

every thing.

for

men was

Verily, the

Mecca, which

first

is full

is

omniscient

house reared

of blessings

directs the people in the right path.

is

and

This house

9

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. ontains

manifest signs and was the abode of

Abraham. it

is

site

Whosoever entered

man who

the duty of every

means

house of

was

it

to undertake

and

safe;

has the requi

pilgrimage to the

a

God."

From my to pay a

childhood I had

earliest

visit to this

longed

In view,

holy sanctuary.

however, of the social customs of India, I could not

unless

long

as

by

remained

I

my

this

purpose,

august mother, as

unmarried.

became involved

official

out

carried

accompanied

riage I

and

have

possibly

mar

After

in innumerable domestic

troubles which are not

unknown

to the

and the object of my from accomplishment as

desire

intelligent observer,

remained as

far

According to a well-known Arab aphorism thing occurs at

every

The sacred

appointed time.

its

ever. c

object which I had in view was so long delayed

that

my lamented

best

knows the

ment plunged

trials into

me.

confronted with of the State.

mother breathed her

all

I

which

this

found myself

last.

God

bereave

suddenly

the arduous responsibilities

The State at

this

time resembled

a tottering pillar and the condition of helpless ness to which

it

had been reduced haunted me

THE STORY OF A

10

day and sacred

Still

night.

the

to

desire

visit

the

Mecca and Medina was the most

cities of

cherished sentiment of

my

After assum

heart.

ing the administration I thought that,

having

accomplished such measures of reform as were absolutely

necessary, I would be able to under

take the blessed journey, but yet another sore

disappointment was in store for me.

had scarcely run

their

course

when my

well-

Nawab

Ihti-

beloved husband and adviser, the

sham-ul-Mulk,

Dulha,

Alijah,

Ahmad

fate to the

of

Sultan

Nazir-ud-Daula,

Khan Bahadur, was

Ali

mercy

Six months

God.

The shock

called

by

distracted

me, and the long-cherished wish which had been

my

guiding star ever since

my

childhood had

again to be postponed. It is well

known

that the Courts of even the

petty Princes of this world are inaccessible to

who have not obtained permission

those

When how

such

is

the case in

to enter.

our earthly relations,

can we possibly betake ourselves to the

Court of the Sovereign of the

Two Worlds

except

with the guidance of His beneficence and mercy

Man

proposes and

God

disposes.

I

?

deem myself

highly fortunate in that the Great and Glorious

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

me

Master sent for

my

besetting

bounded at

His

All difficulties

were removed by

my

all

vanished

well that

ends

something untoward should happen

in its course to

mar

its

accordingly look

upon

my

satisfaction

and

offer

thanks to God,

May God

direct

complete

religious duties

I

harmony.

journey with unmixed Lord.

my

every Musalman in the right

and grant him the

path

un

His

troubles

All s

bidding.

gracious if

to His Court.

and

grace,

even

well,

path

11

ability to

perform his

with the utmost readiness

!

My

journey has been crowned with complete success

and

I

have

ended

it

a

in

most satisfactory

manner. In conformity with the Islamic teaching, that

who does not thank men,

"He

God",

the

I

must

of

India

great kindness to which I shall refer at later on.

My

to thank

in this connection sincerely

Government

Supreme

fails

for full

thank their

length

thanks are also due to the Turkish

Govern

Government, who, at the instance

of the

ment

a reception be.

of India, very kindly

fitting

I

into

gave

me

my rank and entertained me with hospitality. have divided this narrative of my journey

two books.

The

first

book contains a

brief

THE STORY OF A PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

12

geographical description of Arabia, to which

added a detailed account holy

Kaaba

as well the

is

of the foundation of the

Prophet

s

mosque.

The

second book deals with events and incidents relat ing to

my

pilgrimage to Hijaz and copies of such

correspondence

with

it.

as

took

place

in

connection

BOOK

I.

CHAPTER

I.

GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF ARABIA. Modern Arabia

a

is

research

geographical

peninsula

western corner

of the

bounded on the

east

situated

shows

South

the

in

that

Asiatic Continent.

It is

by the Persian Gulf and on the west by the Eed Sea and the Straits of Babul-Mandab. The Arabian Sea washes the South ern coast of the peninsula and the plains of Syria

march with

its

Northern

north-west the country

is

To

boundary.

the

connected with Africa

by an isthmus which has now been pierced by the Suez Canal. The length of the land is 1,500 miles

and

its

breadth about 1,200

miles.

principal political divisions are four

Hijaz

The

including

first

two

Tainan;

Najcl,

The

Al-Khassa

and

;

Oman.

divisions are under the

Sultan of Turkey.

Najd

is

sway of the ruled by an inde

pendent Chieftain, who, however, acknowledges the suzerainty of the Sultan.

Oman

belongs to

THE STORY OF A

14 the

Imam

country

is

of Maskat.

Nearly the whole of the

sandy and, owing to

to the torrid or equatorial zone,

its close is

proximity

The

very hot.

province of Hijaz, which runs along the shore

Red

of the

famed

Sea, contains the

cities of

which

of Taif,

holy and

world-

Mecca and Medina, and the town celebrated for

is

genial climate

its

and green meadows. Mecca lies at the foot a mountain and is surrounded by a number small

hills.

situated the

yard.

On

"

the

other side,

is

tion of

Yaman

the town

spring issuing from the

to the birth-place of !)

in

the

it

a large grave direction

of

In the direc

demarcated by a

is

Bazan which

Hamza (May God

lies

close

be pleased

The Jabl

the Jabl Ahmar, which stand

facing one another, skirt the sides.

one side of

the uncle of our Prophet.

Abu Kubais and

of

of considerable

Jannat-ul-Mualla"

a place called Shahika.

Jeddah,

with him

is

On

rectangular in shape.

size, is is

The town, which

of

town on the other

In his history of Mecca the learned Kutb-

ud-din Hanafi states that in old times the city

was protected by a system of has

fortified walls.

described the system at

He

some length and

points out that in the direction

of the

Palaces

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

a thick wall connected the

Umar

with

iron, the gift of also a,

a

wooden

Abdulla ibn wall was

This

man, to drain

was another piece

off

about

with

plated

gate

some Indian Monarch.

pierced with sluices,

It

was

the height of water.

superfluous

There

of wall in the direction of Sha-

This joined the two

hika.

of

hill

with the opposite rock.

furnished

15

hills

which enclose the

pass that furnishes the means of egress from Mecca.

The wall had two

tem

To complete the

gates.

Darb-ul- Yaman.

The learned the

ion that the founder of Sharif,

Abu

historian

is

Aziz Katada ibn Idris Hasani,

According to the

an

The date

of

down

as

construction of the wall has been put Hijra.

of opin

City wall was the

ancestor of the Sharifs of Mecca.

607

sys

there was one more wall situated below the

same authority

the length of Mecca from the Muallat gate to the Darb-ul- Yaman cubits

is

4,072

and 4,000 yards

if

yards

if

measured in

measured with an iron

rod of the standard length.

Surveyed from the

Muallat gate to Shahika the length of the city is At at 4,172 yards in hand measure.

computed

the time of

my

visit,

wall were visible.

however, no traces of the

THE STORY OF A

16

Mecca

One

is

supplied with water by two canals.

had been

of these

commenced

Zubair Kuraishi, but, being

left

was completed by the Queen

unfinished

of Sultan

Ibn

by

by him,

Sulaiman

The other was constructed by the Abbaside Khalifa, Muktadir. The site of Mecca

of Turkey.

comprises an area two miles long from north to

south and one mile broad

Owing

to the excessive heat

from east to west.

and the sandy nature

of the country not a speck of verdure relieves the

At a distance

eye for miles.

70 miles from

of

Mecca, however, in an easterly direction,

with

its

green

meadows and

cultivated

fields

Summer

reigns

which support and sustain Mecca.

throughout the year in Mecca which visited

the

by any winter worthy

summer

is

Taif

lies

is

scarcely

name.

of the

at its hottest, the nobility

When

and

well-

to-do portion of the populace betake themselves to the cool

and shady

retreat of Taif.

The port of Jeddah lies 40 Mecca on the coast of the Red Sea.

miles west

north, at a distance of 270 miles,

is

blessed City of Medina.

Mecca and masonry.

is

protected

The suburbs

Medina

by an

of

Towards the

is

situated the

smaller than

old wall of strong

of the City are dotted at

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. intervals with small

The

hills.

soil

17

Arabia

of

is

rocky throughout, like that of Medina, and this accounts for the heat prevailing in the country.

Yet the climate

of

Medina

is

comparatively mild,

and abundant groves of fruit met with there. The chains of

to

be

hills skirting

the

trees

are

northern and southern suburbs of the City are

famous

Medina

for their groves of luscious dates.

is

appreciably cold in winter and, as the climate

is

moderate, people do not find

it

necessary to be

take themselves to any other place in the summer,

Arabia ellers

is

not an agricultural country.

have to encounter

owing to scarcity

ties

considerable

Trav

of water,

and

difficul

this

the

is

principal cause of the absence of those trading facilities tries.

which are to be met with in other coun

The

sole trade of

maritime enterprise as

Arabia consists of such

falls

to

however, that the country

is

its lot.

The

fact,

the seat of holy

sanctuaries, to which people are necessarily attract

ed in large numbers, lends an unusual impetus to mercantile activity.

Of the professions, moreover,

the only one for which the Arab entertains any respect

is

trade.

Traditions

show that even before

the advent of the Prophet Arabia was noted for PH

2

its

THE STORY OF A

18

mercantile activity, and that the ancient Arabs,

who of

are

"the

known

period of

and to other

Arabs

in the language of Islam as ignorance,"

journeyed to Syria

countries in quest of trade.

Excessive heat and scorching winds prevail

soil, is

of the

Of the indigenous products

in Arabia.

the date

is

very delicious and palatable and

appreciated not only by the natives but also by

people of other countries.

marvel of

utility

Its fruit is eaten,

the

fibre are

articles

turned to

is

and the

are

sent

The Arab

of diet the

on foreign

and

to

other countries as

bill-of-fare consists

is

other

As the land revenue forms of the

every branch of trade

customs duty

For

mainly

all

country has to depend chiefly

supplies.

but a small portion

tariff rates

is

levied

income

taxed.

of the country,

The namrak

obtaining in the country

economic principles the

it is

01

by the State and the high

may

possibly

be accounted for by the consideration that

of

a

uses.

many

leaves, the bark,

of meat, dates, milk, and honey. articles

is

used in the manufacture of various

which

curiosities.

and

The date-palm

on

essential to the efficiency

administration that the income

of

the

country governed should be equal to the expen-

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

19

The administrative requirements

diture.

by the land

bia not being sufficiently covered it is

revenue,

absolutely necessary that the fiscal

country should be imposed upon

of the

burden

Ara

of

exports and imports.

its

bounded on the north by the land of Syria which far surpasses it in richness and f ertihty. Arabia

In "

is

one of the Syrian towns,

Elia,

Bait-ul-Mukaddas

the

(Temple

it,

Kibla

of

Islam,

the

of

The

sanctity and

importance of the shrine are acknow

ledged by Musalmans to this day. to

much

engaged in prayer, turned their

faces towards this sanctuary. religious

Solomon).

first

In the early days

Faithful, while

of

also regarded with

is

veneration and constitutes the

Musalmans.

situated the

(Holy House), also called

Masjid-ul-Aksa"

This sacred temple

is

"

A

pilgrimage

under religious ordinance, secures spiritual

reward

for the pilgrim.

The Prophet says

:

"Do

not undertake a pilgrimage to any shrine except three, the Masjid-ul-Haram, the Masjid-ul-Aksa,

and

my

the Holy

mosque."

The

first

of

these signifies

Kaaba, the second the sanctuary

Jerusalem, and the third the Prophet at

Medina.

s

of

mosque

The superlative sanctity attached

20

THE STORY OF A

to the Masjid-ul-Aksa

be gauged from the

may

fact that the first stage of the Prophet

was

iy night journey

book thus

of the

this

shrine.

s

heaven-

The

sacred

Musalmans, the Kuran, speaks

of

it

mosque whose environments have been blessed by us." The sanctuary, more It

:

over,

is

is

a

the resting-place of those renowned pro

phets and apostles whose spiritual excellence

is

acknowledged not only in Islam but in all those other systems of belief which claim for themselves

and whose followers are

a heavenly origin

the People of the Book.

in Islamic language

In short, this sacred locality

is

an object

vene

all sides

holy precincts are acknowledged by

Book

of the

heaven.

to

proceeding

pay a

visit to

salem in connection with

and

Medina. to

the

exigencies

It

my

on

of

my

journey,

pilgrimage to Mecca

ow

however,

the time I

was un

journey to Jerusalem in

was not advisable that

remain away from

my

I

the temple of Jeru

Unfortunately,

able to include a

programme.

the People

all

to be the inspired messengers of

Before

had intended

ing

of

and the great spiritual leaders bygone times whose repose is guarded by its

ration on of

called

I

my

should

State duties for any very

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

21

considerable length of time, and the idea of visit ing Jerusalem

had perforce

before I left Bhopal.

myself of the I

I,

to be given

however, intend to avail

blessing at

some future time,

have improved the condition

thus

fulfilled

up even

of

my

State

the prime obligation of a Ruler.

after

and

CHAPTEE

II.

THE PRE-ISLAMIC FOUNDATION OF THE HOLY KAABA.

When was

first

the

foundation of the

advanced to admit

on modern

had not

civilisation

laid,

sufficiently

of the preparation of a record

historical principles,

which might have

how

enabled us to form a clear idea as to

came

shrine

great

into

knowledge, therefore, as ject

we have

to depend

is

existence.

words

own

by

upon

accord.

The

such

and those

tradition

the Holy Kuran

"He

:

For

this

available on the sub

inspired sayings of the Prophet,

tested

Kaaba

holy

which are at the

in

following

(the Prophet) does not speak of his

Whatever he says of the

writings

on the subject are

all

is

inspired.

old Islamic

historians

traceable, as regards the

source of their information, to these traditions.

According to the traditions, the construction of the sacred

edifice

fore the fall of

falls

into

Adam, and

the narrative of

my

two

periods,

(1)

the

fall.

(2) after

journey has for

only those traditions which

fall

its

be

As

object

under the latter

23

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

my remarks to them. On the strength of the Imam Abu-1-Walid-Azraki s tes heading, I will restrict

timony the learned Kutb-ud-din Hanafi makes the following statement earth

Adam

said

hear the voices of 6

Adam,

it

is

because of

God answered

just as

built the It

is

House

Make

Then go round

Adam

for

a it

of

accordingly be

a suitable place

reached the spot where Mecca

and

sin.

:

you saw the cherubim do

in the highest heaven.

gan to look about

your

to me.

it

do not

I

Lord,

:

the Angels.

house and dedicate

and praise me

God

to

coming to the

"On

:

now

is

till

he

situated

God."

evident that in those early times

human

industries did not exist.

For digging and laying

the foundation, therefore,

Adam

of

some

one.

Tradition

says

required the aid

that

the

angel

Gabriel struck the ground with his wing, creating

an enormous chasm which reached to the seventh layer of the Earth. filled

up by the

of rock

This mighty gap was then

angelic host with

huge fragments

which were so heavy that thirty men of

that age could hardly have lifted

Thus the completed.

one of them.

foundation of the Holy Kaaba was

As regards the quarries from which

24

THE STORY OF A

these fragments of rock were obtained the

mountains

of five

non,

Sinai,

(2)

summit Noah sided,

(3)

Ark

s

and

(5)

the

first

ceived

may

be mentioned,

Nita,

(1)

Judi, on

(4)

names Leba whose

rested after the deluge sub

Hira, where

the

Prophet

When

revelation.

tion was level with the surface

re

the founda the

of

earth,

the Bait-ul-Mamur, a glorious edifice of heavenly origin,

was placed over

manded

walk round

to

Adam

and

it

Shah Abd-ul-Aziz,

it.

the great Traditionist of Delhi, this legend in his

ul-Aziz,

and the Kitab-ul-Uzma. animous

in

affirming

remained in

this

deluge.

When

of Glory

was

place

mentions

also

entitled the Fath-

commentary

on the authority

was com

of Azraki,

Ibn Asakir,

All traditions

are

un

that the Bait-ul-Mamur till

the time of

Noah

s

the great flood came, the House

lifted

heavens.

up to the

From

that day to the time of the Prophet Abraham,

no structure

The

Avas reared

locality,

existed,

however,

upon the w-here

old foundation. this

was marked by an eminence which com

manded

the neighbouring ground.

interval

between the deluge

advent

foundation

of

of

During the

Noah and

Abraham, the spot was regarded

the as

PILGRIMAGE TO H1JAZ. sacred and people used to flock to

that the sanctity of

its

the spot in

In the

Kitab-ul-Ilm-

Noah and

of

it is

written that

that of Abraham,

running water and

knowing the actual

without

people,

whereabouts

were yet

of the ancient sanctuary,

aware that the

site

somewhere

existed

The

neighbourhood.

and the

"

question resembled a reddish rock

which was above the reach that the

in the belief

would render

ba-Alam-i-Bait-illah-il-Haram" of

it

precincts

their prayers efficacious.

between the time

25

oppressed,

the

in

that

pursued,

sick betook themselves to this spot

and

their prayers were heard, while people generally

came the

here on pilgrimage.

first

This

is

an account of

foundation of the Kaaba which was laid

after the creation of

was made

man.

of rubies, the

ment

of the

holy

uge

came

to

As the Bait-ul-Mamur

cap of rock on the base

Kaaba which survived the

consist

of

earth

of

a

del

reddish

colour.

THE SECOND CONSTRUCTION OF THE KAABA. All the authorities are

unanimous

in ascrib

ing the second construction of the holy to the Prophet interest

is

Abraham.

A

Kaaba

legend of historical

connected with the building of the

26

THE STORY OF A

shrine

by that

ritual of the pilgrimage

the legend,

it

Tarakh (Terah, whose

of

Noah

after

here.

it

He was

Azr), the son of Nahor.

born 1709 years

the

of

closely associated with

is

necessary to recount

is

Abraham was the son surname was

most

and, as

patriarch,

deluge, a period

s

which was contemporaneous with that

of

Namrud, the son of Kanaan.

s

Abraham

King

native

place was Kusi, a small hamlet in the environs of

Babel.

Like other Prophets before him, his

nature shrank from idolatry while he

very young, and, as that he should

fill

it

was

still

had been decreed by God

the high

office

of a Prophet,

young

Abraham would

and

people to task for their idolatrous prac

his

often

One day he demolished

tices.

when they questioned him deed, he answered them."

cannot their

They

"Ask

replied

His

speak."

self-accusing

his

father

their idols,

and

as to his destructive

the

"Thou

idols

who broke

knowest that they

answer

reply.

take

This

was the cause greatly

of

enraged

them, and to revenge themselves upon Abraham,

and having threw him thereon by means of

they piled up a huge pyre set

fire

to

a catapult.

it

By

of faggots

the Grace of God, however, he

27

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

emerged

from

safely

inducing his

the

Abraham

and repaired to Haran living

at

where his uncle

tels

will

of

Hdran was

idolatry.

this that

at large

country

Haran

Haran gave him his marriage, and his teachings

induced her against the

up

left his

of

the time.

daughter, Sarah, in

give

Despairing

and the community

fafcher

to accept the true faith,

was

fire.

he took away

her parents to

incensed

so

the goods

all

at

and chat

that belonged to the pair and turned them

With no

out of his house.

Abraham

in view

accompanied by

left his

his wife

particular destination

father-in-law s

house,

Sarah who had made an

agreement with him never to disobey him as long as he also

performed her

joined in their wanderings

who was

their

nephew.

They were

bidding.

by the Prophet Lot

They

first

went to Egypt

which at that time was ruled by a tyrant who used to take away every beautiful her guardian.

The guardian was put

happened to be the husband relative,

woman

he was not of

killed.

;

if

woman from to death

if

he

he were any other

Now, Sarah was

a

such transcendent loveliness that one-

sixth of the graces

was centred

of all

womankind

Abraham

told this to

and charms

in her alone.

THE STORY OF A

28

Sarah and said not that

I

am

know

destroy real

that

my

If

the king sends for thee

thy husband, but rather that

for I

thy brother, I

"

God

am

honour."

and showed

of the tyrant

itself

came

in

what relation the

is

my

sister in

the

I

thy brother in the

will protect

say

?

am

faith.

thee and will not

The danger was only too before long. The servants

Abraham and asked him woman stood to him She to

"

:

was Abraham

faith"

s

reply.

Thereupon the men took away Sarah, and Abra

ham began

Sarah was carried before the king. of course captivated liberties

Meanwhile

to pray for her safety.

with her.

him and he

She guessed

Her charms tried to

take

intention

his evil

and asked him to allow her to bathe and worship her God.

The tyrant consented and at

his bid

ding the servants of the royal household brought basin to enable her to an ewer and a

washing

perform her ablutions and say her prayers.

was engaged time.

The

in prayer

king,

and supplication

growing

impatient

Sarah

for a long

of

delay,

resolved to accomplish his evil design while his

intended victim was

still

praying, and,

having

sent everyone out of the house, was on the point of laying hands on her

when he was suddenly

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. seized with a

foamed

His breathing

fit.

at the

29 ceased and he

Sarah was greatly alarm

mouth.

ed for she thought that the guards of the tyrant

would put her to death on the charge their

ing

to relieve

king.

of

murder

God

She therefore prayed to

the king of his

suffering,

supposing

that the supernatural visitation would serve as a warning.

Sarah

supplication was heard and

s

the king recovered, but, instead of repenting, he persisted in his evil purpose.

still

on

a

second apopleptic

fit.

This brought

To cut the matter

short, the tyrant received three similar

in succession, and,

on the

last occasion,

that Sarah was a jinn, he gave

warnings

persuaded

At the

her up.

same time he presented Sarah with Hagar,

who had been but had in

living for

some time

in his

a girl

harem,

some way been protected from

his

violence.

Abraham now

left

Egypt

for

Palestine,

a

well-known city in the centre of Syria, where he took up his

abode.

The

citizens

of

Palestine

him with great respect and showed their hospitality by making him a gift of an ex

treated

tensive plot of land the revenue of which placed

him

in affluence.

He

purchased numerous slaves.

30

THE STORY OF A

acquired

many

cattle,

cultivated several farms,

established a feeding house for the needy

and made arrangements

the traveller, liberal

He

entertainment of guests.

puted Lot to show the Path

and the

for

then

de

of Salvation to the

people of Sodom.

Sarah had a great longing for children.

yearned to be blessed with a she told

Hagar

to

Abraham that him

child.

she was

as a gift in the

She

Accordingly

going to offer

hope that a

child

might be born

of

both of them.

Abraham, knowing that jealousy

her to

bring

consolation to

predominated in her character, feared

lest in

the

event of a son being born of the slave-girl Hagar,

Sarah might be envious and persecute the Sarah, however, insisted carried out

her

child.

upon her wishes being

and Abraham was compelled to accept

gift.

In due course Hagar gave birth to the Pro phet Ishmael

who was brought up by Sarah

some time with motherly suckled the child. jealousy, paid

little

Abraham,

Hagar merely

in view of Sarah s

attention to

day, however, being alone, feeling

care.

for

he

Ishmael.

out of

and fatherly love took Ishmael on

One

natural his lap

31

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Sarah chanced to see

and caressed him.

this,

jealousy got the better of her, and she asked Abra

ham

to turn both

into

a

mother and son out there was

desert where

Abraham

water.

foliage, or

of the house,

neither shelter,

tried

utmost

his

to dissuade her from her purpose, but without

As a

success.

last resort,

Do

came

the answer

Abraham took them

as

both,

the

accomplished

where the holy Kaaba now left

Sarah bids thee.

journey, and reached the plain

his

of

stages

he appealed to God, but

Abraham

stands.

the infant Ishmael and his mother under a

this spot

Zamzarn.

of

the place

tree at

At that time

Abraham

was a desert Avithout water.

gave Ishmael s mother dates, loaves, and a skinful of water, and told her to feed the child and sit

Then he began to return to his home. In while he saw Hagar following him and

down. a

little

calling

Where

:

desert there

thou leaving us

no water, no

Abraham was

friend."

asked:

is

art

"Art

thou

not,"

Yes",

replied

said Ishmael

perish."

silent.

no house, no

At

last

doing this by the

"

God?"

shelter,

s

Abraham.

mother,

"He

In this

?

order

"Then

will

Thus saying she returned

Hagar

not

of

I fear let

to her

me son

THE STORY OF A

32

and began

to suckle him.

crossed the top of the lost sight of

Kaaba,

Thy

lifted

his hands,

up

and prayed

:

my family in a desert plain

sacred house that they

Turn

Thee.

between them and had

Hagar, he turned towards the holy

God, I have placed to

hill

When Abraham had

thou

the

hearts

may of

"O

close

worship

the

people

towards them and bless them with plenty that they

Thee."

As long

and water

lasted,

may thank

of dates, bread,

as the

supply

Hagar suckled

the infant and refreshed him with water.

When

the water was finished, Hagar was very thirsty,

and Ishmael from the greatness of his thirst, She could not bear the rolled on the ground. sight,

so she ran towards the hill of Safa which

was hard by, climbed it, and looked all round to She could not see if there was water anywhere. go very far as she had to keep the child in sight. When she saw no water, she descended the hill in despair

and went towards Marwa.

She then

was away from her child, perhaps some wild beast might carry him off.

feared

that,

Moved by

as

she

this fear, she lifted

up the

skirt of

her

dress and began to run swiftly across the hollow of the

plain wihch

is

called the

Batn-ul-Wadu

33

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. Presently she

came out on

ground and went slowly, in

She

sight.

Marwa and for water,

to a

for

Ishmael now came

mounted

then

strained her eyes

but found none.

to Safa and, running

stretch of level

the

in every

peak

of

direction

She retraced her steps

across

the hollow, walked

slowly over the level part of the plain.

In this

manner she crossed between Marwa and Safa seven times forwards and backwards.

In handing down this legend to us Ibn-

Abbas (may God be pleased with him!)

ascribes

to the Prophet the following version of the dition

:

6

The run between the Safa and Marwa has

been ordained that the servants of God

remember the gar and

may

how

loneliness

and

she turned to

bring their

own

When Hagar

helplessness of

Ha-

God most High, and

loneliness

and helplessness

reached

Marwa

the seventh time,

she heard a voice and, turning towards

Fear

may

same True King and implore His mercy.

to that

*

tra

not."

Then she

how good were

bring us help. PH

she said

listened attentively

hearing the voice again she said speakest,

it,

it

c

that

and

Thou that

Thou

couldst

She then came running to Ishmael 3

THE STORY OF A

34

and saw that an angel was

striking the

ground

Zam-

with his wings or heels at the place where

zam

is

now

from the

and that water was flowing

situated

Fearful lest

earth.

should

the spring

run dry and leave her as thirsty as before, Hagar her waterskin with water and,

filled

in order to

embank

store water in a reservoir, she raised an

ment

this

but

for her impatience

day be a running

Hagar refreshed Ishmael greatly

to

and said

The

God

:

here, for in this place

its

troy of the

his

In

and conspicuous, and the

direction

comforted

not destroy

those

like a

rain

of

of

Arabs

land,

When

shall build will

the

never des

days, the

mound, flowed

of the

came

her thee

off

it

spot

Yaman and camped

on

alone.

Jurham

to the

site

beautiful,

Mother and son were there

One day a party who inhabited the the

will

and God

Kaaba was high

either side.

angel

the House of God.

father,

inmates."

Zamzam would

with water and gave

become a man, he

this child shall

House with

is

May

:

brook."

herself

drink.

writer

the mother of

God descend upon

the Blessing of ;

these words

with

concludes his story

Ishmael

The holy

around the spring.

of earth

at

clan,

from the

35

They saw a

flock of birds

the mound.

foot

of

take

flight

*

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Birds

and wondering

often pass or the

by

to

rise

only

of

man

sent round a

had

woman

a

and

to look

child

At

men.

dwell

:

we

;

tell

what he saw.

said that

was

living

they

length

a spring of

and that a

appeared

miraculously

with

another

but have never seen water

The man came back and water

men

where

fly

this place,

dwellings

said one to

near

The

it.

clansmen waited upon Hagar and asked leave to settle there.

Hagar,

being lonely,

wished to have people about her. the permission very readily, but

naturally

She granted

made the condi

tion that the clansmen should have no property in the spring.

The men

Jurhain counted

of

it

a favour that they might dwell there, and, having

few houses, sent for the rest of their clan

built a

together with settled

down

the

whole

of

their

goods

and

in the place.

Ishmael began to speak Arabic, the language of the

able

and

Jurham ing

settlers,

his

and he

grew up an

intelligent youth.

clan

The Chieftain

had the great happiness

daughter

to

him.

died and was buried at Hajr.

unusually

of

Meanwhile

of the

marry

Hagar

THE STORY OF A

36

Ishmael was fourteen years

prophet Isaac was born to Sarah

came busy

She

him.

for

and she be less

grew

and Abraham begged her to allow him to

jealous

go

care

in

when the

of age

and see

dition that

She

Ishmael.

he

on con

consented

should neither dismount from his the

horse nor pass

Ishmael

at

night

s

house.

Abraham went, and he found that Ishmael, who was grown to man s estate, had married after the death Abra of his mother and was living with his wife.

ham

searched

the door. lived his

for

on animals lawful

he

called

s

right to

water of

with

his lot.

wife to the door and

husband

was

and

when

She replied that her husband

and w^ould be back

Abraham knew that

he waited

if

would have to pass the house, and, as he only wanted

return, he

night at his son

make

s

in quest of food

in the evening.

Ishmael

which he slew with

was contented

her where her

had gone out

to

house and went to

for food

Ishmael

he would return.

for

s

arrow, and cooked in the

Zamzam; and Abraham

son

Ishmael had gone out to hunt, for he

bow and

asked

his

s

sure that his son was well, he thought

enquire

and

return

to

his

he rode to the door, and began to ask

home.

his

it

So

daughter-

PILGRIMAGE TO HiJAZ.

37

questions as to their condition.

in-law

all sorts of

When

he asked her about their means of

lihood, she replied that they were

live

precarious

and

that she and her husband lived in great poverty

and

Abraham asked

plaints.

on

his

return and

framework its

She also made

distress.

of

to

his

many

com

other

her to greet her husband

him

tell

to

change the

which was

door,

unfit for

Abraham then started for home.

purpose.

At

sunset Ishmael returned to his house and perceiv

ing that light and blessing had house, he asked his wife

She

visitor.

answered

had come mounted on a his

that

was

described stranger told the

4

his

him.

had

that

He

horse,

anything. of

the

thy father

to do with thee. girl

of

guessed

mother had often

In

visit

my

father

that I should put thee away. to

Ishmael

reply

s

house

who has

the she

his wife

:

signified

Go thou

for I

if

and repeated

Ishmael thereupon said to

The stranger was

fore

and she described

then asked his wife

said

man

a venerable

father, for his

whole story

his message.

she had received any

and appearance.

features it

if

descended on his

there

have no more

After this he married another

the same clan, Sayyada, the daughter of

38

THE STORY OF A

.

Mazaz ibn-Amr Jurhami, a bride who managed his house with great tact and skill. After

went out to

He

Abraham

some time

heart

s

again

his son and he longed to see him.

asked leave of Sarah a second time and, hav

ing obtained

it

on the same terms as before,

This time too Ishmael was

out on his journey.

Ishmael

absent.

set

s

wife,

however,

appeared

women

in the doorway, for in those days

hide themselves from the gaze of men.

comed Abraham and asked him

did not

She wel

to rest in the

house that she might wash his head which was

To keep

covered with the dust of the journey. his

Abraham was compelled

promise to Sarah,

refuse.

Then Ishmael

of stone

and placed

ham

the stone ing his

wife brought a

slab

and

his

of

Abra

his feet

daughter-in-law

on

mount

upon the slab, washed his head and combed While this was going on, Abraham hair.

questioned her as to their condition. wife

large slab

close to the stirrup of

it

Abraham put one

horse.

s

s

to-

answered

virtues of her

his

by

inquiries

husband and

describing

gratefully

ing his kind and loving treatment.

means

of

livelihood, she said

-.

IshmaePs the

acknowledg

As to

"Thanks

to

their

God

39

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

no want, and God has not made us de pendent upon any man for anything. Ishmael

we

are in

brings meat

we

and Zamzam

live well.

meat and water and

On

mise to Sarah.

framework

the

it

of

him that

and

his

who

daugh

tell

him

good fortune and

Ishmael came

his spiritual insight

a great personage

his wife

his pro

door was excellent,

this as

When

carefully.

in the evening

mind

husband and to

and that he should regard cherish

in

leaving, he charged his

ter-in-law to greet her

that

to bless their

the place without waiting

left

Ishmael s return, bearing

for

ed

nigh at hand, and thus

is

Abraham prayed God

"

home

informed

had come, he question

He

told the whole story.

there

upon signified to her that the venerable stranger was his father who had commended her to him. Again, after some days see his son.

told

her

He opened

that,

as

Abraham yearned

to

Sarah and

his heart to

on both the previous occasions

he had not been able to see Ishmael, he was nowanxious to go and live with him for a few

but could do so only

Sarah now

if

willingly

arrived at Mecca.

she readily gave

consented

and

him

days, leave.

Abraham

This time Ishmael was seated

under a tree near Zamzam, mending

his arrows.

THE STORY OF A

40

He recognised his

father at once

him.

Mumam

father

and son wept

says

that

so profusely that the

very

The joy which meeting must have caused was a natural

birds joined this

prelude to the

him

commanded Abraham

at the

of

On

time

own

hands.

anxious that he should join

temple was that the work done as

if it

was done by

Abraham pointed out

Ishmael readily agreed to do as

bade him, and the building was begun

first

of

son to join

Ishmael questioning him as to the

the red mound.

on the

in

same time explained that the

the proposed temple,

his father

itself

which he had been

them would count

the other.

his

construct with his

to

why he was

by each

showed

which

Abraham asked

in building the

site of

sympathy.

building a temple

in

reason

for

feeling

After this

tears.

him

Yamani

ibn-Rashid

them

and ran to embrace

day

of the

building

month

Abraham

At the

of Zikaad.

hesitated

to the

as

exact spot on which the foundation was to be laid.

came

Then

the

in the

form

the Kaaba.

Sakina

of a cloud

Abraham was

marked by the shadow the exact

site

(a

covering

of

light)

and stood opposite told

that the spot

of the cloud represented

of the Kaaba.

The angel

Gabriel,

41

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

moreover, drew a line marking the size of

As

shadow.

Abraham

Adam

dug,

foundation

s

was uncovered and he began to build on height

the

of

The length

walls

pillar of

on one

from the western

and from the

from the

the

pillar to

The breadth, from the

31 yards.

pillar of Syria to

yards.

the Black Stone, was 33 yards,

other,

Yaman,

side,

The

it.

9

at

fixed

of the building

pillar of Syria to

and on the

was

fche

the western pillar was 22 yards,

pillar of

Yaman

to the Black Stone

Thus the Kaaba was a quadrangle with unequal sides. The entrance was level with

20 yards.

the

ground.

It

was

without

low,

On

without bolt or chain.

any one entering was a deep

the pit in

built the walls while

material

He

which

consisted of

prepared the

bring the stones

Ishmael

mud on

all

the

beyond the height

of

which might be

No

roof.

account

Abraham

brought him the

mud and

stones.

the spot, but had to

way from

Kubais, Hira, and Warkan.

hand

right

placed the gifts offered at the Kaaba.

show s that the building had a

and

doors,

the

When

hills of

Abu

the walls rose

man, a large stone was wanted on which to stand and continue the build

ing.

of a

Possibly the art of building already existed

THE STORY OF A

42

and there were people who understood it, but these holy men had no special knowledge. They

command, and had no

followed only the divine

On

scaffolding.

his

Abu Kuba

the

to

way

quest of a huge stone, Ishmael met the angel riel

who

:

said

:

Come with me and

I will

in

Gab show

thee the two pieces of stone which came with

Adam

from Paradise and were buried at the foot

of this hill

by the prophet

be carried away by

One

are greatly blessed.

ham

as a support

a corner of the

Noah

Idris lest

they should

flood.

These stones

s

of

them

Abra

will serve

and the other do thou

Kaaba on the

the entrance where

it

right

hand

fix

side of

can be kissed by every

grim before he makes the

circuit of

in

pil

the building.

Ishmael brought away both these stones one after the other,

inspired of

the

and Gabriel went with him and

Abraham Kaaba.

to fix one stone in the corner

The stone on which Abraham

stood while building the walls grew in height with

the wall and no other stone was needed until the

completion of the structure. of

Abraham

i-Ibrahim

?

s

footprint

(Abraham

and s

is

It

bore the mark

called the

standing

Makam

place).

The

Hajar-i-As\vad (Black stone) which was set up in

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

an angle

of the

which shed

its

directions

all

Kaaba was

43

a very luminous stone

light for a considerable distance in

from the holy Kaaba.

reached by this

is

light

the

The distance the

of

boundary

Sanctuary to the present day, within which none

may

be molested.

who

kiss this s,tone

It

is

sad that the sins of those

have robbed

of

it

till

light

x-

now

the eye seeks

historical

"The

of

fuller

concerns

it

treatment

in vain.

legend ;

thus

but this

y

admits

told

much

of

it

only

the construction of the Kaaba, and I

need not therefore dwell upon the

the

of

rest

story.

Having completed the building

Abraham made the 66

O

of the

Kaaba,

following invocation to

God

:

Lord, accept (this service) from us, for verily

Thou

nearest

and knowest everything.

and our children to bow

make

us

show

us our rites

and forgive us

;

to

Thy

for

God, will

Thou

and

art the

Forgiver, the Merciful.

The prayer was heard and at the divine com

mand

the angel Gabriel appeared before Abra

ham whom its

details

round the

he taught the ritual of the Hajj in

from the wrapping

of

body to the shaving

unsewn of

the

all

linen

head.

44

THE STORY OF A

From

that time the Hajj with

has become a duty.

rites

near Multazam, (3)

close to

(5)

on Marvva,

(7)

between

the

of

Abraham,

(8)

fifteen places

efficacious, viz.

(I)

under the Mizab-ur-Rahmat,

(2)

the

accompanying

There are

Mecca which render prayer

in

its

Yaman,

pillar of

(4)

on

between Safa and

(6)

Rukn and inside the

Safa,

Marwa,

the Standing-place

Kaaba,

at Mina,

(9)

(10) at Muzdalfa, (11) at Arafat, (12), (13)

near the three Jamarats, (15) near

and

Zamzam

(14)

while

drinking the water of the well.

THE THIRD AND FOURTH CONSTRUCTION OF THE KAABA.

Jurham

The

Kaaba the

built the

Tradition

is

is

to

the

first.

to

as

Amaleka tribesmen

and the fourth time.

third

divided

built the edifice

Alam

and

which

The author

of

the clans

of the Ilm-ul-

has quoted two traditions, but he himself

uncertain whether priority should

the

Jurham

or the

Amaleka.

Tabri believes the legend that the before the Jurham.

We

be ascribed Nevertheless,

Amaleka

have no detailed accounts

regarding these two buildings except that,

Abraham Jurham

s

structure

or the

fell

Amaleka

built

when

into ruins, either

rebuilt

it

the

with some addi-

fl ?,

lr

|

^gg

"5^;;TS

*

.*

fx

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

tions, it

and

was

later,

when

this building also decayed,

anew by the second

built

45

of these clans.

The height of the Kaaba at the time of and fourth construction was the same as

ham

s

third

its

in

Abra

time.

THE FIFTH CONSTRUCTION. To Kusai ibn Kilab struction of the Kaaba.

is

ascribed the fifth con

According to the learned

Kutb-ud-din Hanafi (May God

be

merciful

to

him!) the Kaaba came under the control of Kusai ibn Kilab in the following manner

:

Fatima, the

daughter of Saad, was married to Kilab ibn Marrah

and gave birth died and his

to

Zahra and Kusai. Later on Kilab

widow Fatima contracted

marriage with Rabia

ibnHuzram who took her with

her former children to Syria.

him

children.

a second

When

There Fatima bore

Kusai grew up, he and the

son of Rabia quarrelled, and they taunted him with

him why he did not Kusai, who had known no

being a foreigner, asking

go to his

own

people.

other father than Rabia, complained to his mother,

who

told

him that

his father

was

of

nobler birth

than their father, that he was the son of Kilab, the

son

of

Marrah, that

his

Mecca near the Sacred House.

tribe

lived

at

Kusai forthwith

46

THE STORY OF A

went to

Mecca

greatly honoured tribe of

where

was

he

At

his kinsfolk.

by

and

recognised

time the

this

Khazaah was the guardian of the Kaaba and

Khalil ibn Jaisha, their Chief, kept the key,

and

responsible for opening

He had

When

married.

effect that after

pointed

keeper

pleaded

her

dying, Khalil

him

his

of

the

inability

Aisa

whom

made

a will to the

Kusai

daughter should be ap

to

key.

Aisa,

guard

the

charge and handed over the key to

Now Abu

Kaaba.

the

closing

named

a daughter

and was

however,

important

Abu

Bishan.

Bishan was greatly addicted to drink.

Once when he had no money to buy wine, he

God

the key of the Holy House of

Kusai came to know

this

for

sold

liquor.

and bought the key.

Thus the key came into the possession of Kusai, son of Kilab. The kinsmen of Khazaah could not brook

and Kusai,

He

A

this.

in

fight

took place between them

which the

latter

expelled the family of

and brought built

their

his

own

Khazaah from Mecca

people to settle there.

houses around the

they became the guardians. collected all his wealth

one had

built

it

proved victorious.

Kaaba

of

They which

Kusai, son of Kilab,

and rebuilt the Kaaba

before that time.

He

as no

extended

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. the width it

provided

the holy edifice to

of

with a roof of

covered with

47

and

25 yards

dum wood

which he

branches of date-palm.

thor of the Shafa-ul-Gharam, however,

The au distrusts

the tradition which affirms the extension of the

breadth of the Kaaba.

time

of its foundation

last construction

each

He

is

certain that

by Abraham

from the

to that of

its

by the Kuraish, the Kaaba was

time built according to

Abraham

s

scale.

After the Kaaba, Kusai built the Dar-ul-Nadwat (place of assembly) where the Kuraish clansmen

met

to discuss

space was

left

all

their tribal affairs.

An open

around the Kaaba to admit

prescribed circuit being

were fed at Kusai

s

made by

of the

who

pilgrims,

expense.

THE SIXTH CONSTRUCTION. The holy Kaaba was

built a sixth time after

the birth of our Prophet (peace be on him

The

!).

occasion which led to this construction was this.

A woman,

while burning incense inside the Kaaba,

accidentally set of the

mighty injury

fire

wood-work flood

to

the

had

to the sacred covering. of the roof

also

walls.

Most

was destroyed.

A

previously caused great

Accordingly

the

Kuraish

48

THE STORY OF A

resolved

upon strengthening the structure and

raising the entrance -portal sufficiently to

any one from entering without

Koman

time a

this

prevent

their leave.

At

merchant named Bakum, a

carpenter by* trade, brought a vessel laden with

Walid ibn Mughira

timber to the port of Jeddah.

went with some the

wood

of the

Kuraish to Jeddah, bought

to use in the building, and took

it

with

him to Mecca. The Rishad

author

the

of

Sabil-ul-Huda-wa-r-

mentions a tradition that the

inside the

Kaaba

pit

dug

to receive offerings was the haunt

huge black serpent with a head as large as that of a kid. The monster had been living in of a

this pit for nearly five

hundred years and would

occasionally appear on the walls of the

Kaaba and

any person who approached it. The Kuraish stood in superstitious awe of the monster,

gape

at

which they believed to be the guardian

Kaaba and

its

offerings.

carried off the serpent

by

At

divine

this

of the

time a bird

command and the

incident confirmed the Kuraish in the belief that

They accord the Kaaba and build ingly decided to dismantle Ibn Hisham recounts a legend which it anew.

their purpose

was approved by God.

49

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ,

when Aabid ibn Amran ibn Makhzum,

says that

the Prophet

maternal uncle,

s

the Kaaba, the stone

the stones of

hand and returned to the which

it

lifted

up one

of

from

his

fell

identical

had been taken up.

spot from

This portent led

the Kuraish to decide that the material employ

ed in the construction of the holy Kaaba must be purchased with

money earned by honest

and that unf awful

gains,

such

as

income from

On

usury and similar sources, must not be used. this principle the different parts of the holy

of

God were

distributed

among the

allotted to the

tribes of the

Bani Zahra and: the Bard Abdu-

Munaf and the portion between the Black and

House

The part near the entrance was thus

Kuraish.

and the

toil

Pillar of

Yaman

to the share of the Bani

Saham, and the

Mukhzum

to the Bani

The back

their branches.

of the

Pillar

Kaaba

Jamah and

fell

the Bani

side of the Black Stone to the

Bani Abd-ud-Dar, Bani Asad ibn Abd-ul-uzza, and Bani

Adiibn

ed for the in the

lay

Kaab.

edifice.

work

claim to

of

Stones were then collect

The Prophet personally helped The Kaaba can thus building.

the

proud distinction that three

Prophets of God took a personal share in building PH 4

50

THE STORY OF A

When

it.

a

to

the foundation

certain

point, a

When

appeared.

came from

it

had

been excavated of green rock

fragment

the pick-axe struck

it,

which dazzled the eyes.

a flame

Digging

was now stopped and the building was commenced till

the walls reached the level of the Black Stone.

then arose among the families as to which

Strife

should

the stone in the wall.

fix

It \vas

ingly difficult to decide the point to

tion of

all,

exceed

the satisfac

and there was nearly being a great bat

among the Kuraish, when, at the instance of Abu Umayya ibn Mughira Makhzumi, it was agreed to abide by the decision of the person who tle

should gate.

first

enter the

That day the

the Prophet himself.

Kaaba through the Safa

first

to enter the gate w-as

Every one was glad at the

appearance of Muhammad-ul-Amin (the Faithful), that

being the

known among Each

mission.

title

by which the Prophet was

the Kuraish before his prophetic of the families expressed its will

who

ingness to do the bidding of the Prophet,

took a sheet of linen and, having placed the sacred stone in

it

with his

own

hands, asked

the

mem

bers of each of the clans to hold the cloth on sides

and

lift

it

up together.

They obeyed

all

his

PILGRIMAGE TO H1JAZ. order and the stone was raised

on

Then the Prophet took the stone with his

He

own

51

sacred hands and fixed

the

cloth.

the cloth

off

in its place.

it

thus acted as the representative of

assembled and they willingly accepted

all

those

his action.

The building of the Kaaba was then completed. The height of the walls was double that of Abra

ham

s

wall,

reduced,

but the breadth of the building was

as

not available.

sufficient

material for building was

The area thus

the ground of Hatim.

Kaaba two rows

left

was included in

Inside the building of the

of six

wooden

the roof and a staircase

was constructed near the

pillars

leading Pillar

Prophet at this time was 35 years

supported

up

to the roof

of

Syria.

of age

The

and the

divine mission had not yet been revealed to him.

CHAPTER

III.

THE BUILDING OF THE HOLY KAABA AFTER THE REVELATION OF ISLAM. Zubair (May God be gracious

Abdulla ibn to him!) was the

first

Kaaba

to build the

the revelation of Islam.

He had

after

heard from his

aunt Ayesha, the Truthful, that the Prophet had said to her:

Kuraish)

(the

would its

"Had

have

but

lately

doors,

the building the

Islam, I

Kaaba,

reducing

western and eastern walls

its

and adding to the body six

yards of

by the Kuraish on the If,

embraced

dismantled the

height, piercing

with two

not the people of thy clan

of

ground excluded

side of the

Black Stone..

however, thy kinsmen wish to take the con

struction of the holy edifice in

gone, see thou to

When

hand

after I

am

it."

Yazid ibn Muaviya came into power,

he wished to receive homage for himself.

Many

eminent Companions, however, refused to do him

homage, among them being Abdulla ibn Zubair who, aided by the people oftheHijaz, Yaman,Irak,

and Khorasan, went to Mecca.

Meanwhile Yazid

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ,

53

despatched a body of troops under the

exterminate Abdulla ibn

to

of Hassin-ibn-Mair

command

The troops laid siege to Mecca and Ibn Zubair was compelled to seek refuge within the sanctuary of the Kaaba. The besiegers did not Zubair.

respect even the sacred precincts

means

of certain engines to fling fire at the

The covering

woodwork At

and began by

Kaaba and some

the

of

of the structure

this juncture

Kaaba. of

the

were thus set on

fire.

Yazid died and the news of

death caused- a panic among the besiegers.

this

s

behest conveyed to

occurrence rendered

necessary.

He

its

The

down

citizens of

not, however, take part for fear of

him by Ayesha, and fulfilment the more

wished to pull

der of the building.

violating

its

Be

had remembered the

fore this Abdulla ibn Zubair

Prophet

his

the remain

Mecca would

in razing the structure sanctity.

Abdulla ibn

Zubair thereupon had the building razed to the

ground by

his Ethiopian slaves, in the

among them might be the

particular

hope that

Negro who,

according to a prediction of the Prophet, was destined to dig

down

-prophecy might thus be

God might not be

the Kaaba, and that the fulfilled

profaned.

and the House

of

After this he built

THE STORY OF A

54

man) on the foundations according

to

Abraham

on the east and west.

laid

s plan,

On

Ya-

found in

with stones and war as (a mortar

by Abraham and and erected doors

the completion of the

building, which took place on 27th of

Rajab

in

the year 64 Hijra, the inner as well as the outer surface of the walls was smeared over with an

ointment prepared from musk and amber, while a

mantle

of rich silk

of the

Kaaba.

A

was provided

for the covering

short while afterwards, during the reign

of Abd-ul-Malik ibn

Marwan, a second expedition

was sent against Abdulla ibn Zubair.

This time

the expedition was headed by Hajjaj ibn Yusaf.

In the battle that followed Abdulla ibn fell

a martyr in the year 73 Hijra and Hajjaj

took possession behalf of

of

the

province

of

Abd-ul-Malik ibn Marwan.

several changes

He

Zubair

in

Mecca

on

He made

the building of the

Kaaba.,

dismantled the portion of the building facing

towards Syria and raised

by the

Kuraish,

filled

it

to the height adopted

up the

interior with

huge

the eastern fragments of rock, raised the height of

doorway and

in keeping with the plan of the Kuraish,.

closed the western door.

He

did not, however.

55

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. interfere

with the

rest

of

the

This,

building.

the second post-Islamic construction of the Kaaba,

took place in the year 74 Hijra.

Walid ibn Abd-ul-Malik

rebuilt

for the third

time after the coming

was the

to erect pillars of

first

Kaaba and

Kaaba

the

of Islam.

hewn

He

stone in the

to employ good saj (teakwood) tim

With the exception of occa the building was not renewed till the

ber in the ceiling. sional repairs,

time

of Sultan

Murad ibn Ahmad Khan

That monarch took tion of the

in

hand the fourth

holy edifice

With the exception

of

in the

Turkey.

construc

year 1040 Hijra.

of that portion of the edifice

which contains the Black Stone, the whole

Kaaba was accordance It

is

pulled

with

this building

down and

the

plan

which

of

reconstructed

adopted

by

the in

Hajjaj.

exists to the present day.

CHAPTER

IV.

THE TAHLIA (DECORATION) AND THE KISWAT (COVERING). The Decorations. Sabit, the son of Ishmael, succeeded his father

who

died at the age of 130 years, as guardian of

the Kaaba.

After

him

his

maternal grand -father

Mazaz ibn Amr Jurhami became guardian. is

important to note

instead

of

preferring

that the

sons of Ishmael,

claim to the

a hereditary

guardianship, lent their support to Mazaz

acquired the status of a king.

descendants of Ishmael for

of

Mecca

fell

who thus

When, however, the

found Mecca too small

them and spread over

to preach the faith of

It

other

places in order

Abraham, the

into the hands of the

principality

Amaleka

clan.

This clan had the audacity to violate the sanctity

The vengeance of God thereupon overtook them, and they were expelled from of the

Haram.

The guardianship of the Kaaba now reverted to the tribe of Jurham. Then they

their

homes.

too began to be guilty of the deeds which had

taken place

among the Amaleka.

Mazaz ibn

57

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Amr

assembled

his

clansmen and powerfully ex

them, but they refused to

horted

There

listen.

upon Mazaz dug a deep hole at the bottom of Zamzam which had run dry and buried in it the

two

golden

known

images set

the two

as

left

Kaaba by

Ibn-i-Sasan.

Mecca, his clan remaining behind.

Very few days, however, passed exile of

after the voluntary

Mazaz before the Jurham clan was turned

From

out of Mecca by the Banu Khuzaah.

time

stones,

had been

which

Gazelles,

sent as an offering to the

Mazaz then

with precious

all

traces of

Zamzam

were

that

Abd-ul-

lost.

Mutalib, the grand-father of the Prophet, searched

&gain and dug

were found. the

it

Abd-ul-Mutalib covered the

Kaaba with the

when

and the two golden images

out,

pillars of

Abdulla ibn Zubair,

gold.

building the Kaaba, also plated

with gold and made golden keys for

its

pillars

Subse

it.

quently Abd-ul-Malik had the gate of the Kaaba plated with gold at a cost of 36,000 dinars.

Mizab-i-Rahmat (drain

of

The

mercy) was under or

ders from the same monarch

;

also

made

of solid

gold and the pillars in the interior of the holy building were coated with gold.

Later on Amin-

ur-Rashid, the Abbaside Khalifa, improved

it

at

58

THE STORY OF A

a further cost of 18,000 dinars

;

while the Khalifa.

Mutawakkil Billah commissioned Ishak ibn Salma to repair the golden corners of the sacred ing, to

adorn the upper fringe of the interior cov

ering of the

Kaaba with a

silver

wide surmounted by a gold the old portal which was a

build

new one mounted with

border three yards

circlet,

made

silver.

and to replace

of teak\vood

All this

work

8,000 miskals of gold and 70,000 dirhams of

by

cost

silver..

Afterwards at the instance of certain dignitaries of

the Kaaba, the Khalifa Mutazid Billah had

the entrance of the

Kaaba

the year 310 Hijra, the

repaired.

mother

of the

Muktadir Billah commissioned her to

have

all

in

Khalifa

slave,

Lulu,

Kaaba plated with

Again, in the year 549 Hijra, Jamal-ud-din

gold.

Muhammad, lars in

the pillars of the

Later,

the Egyptian Minister, had the

the interior of the

of gold

and

silver.

A

Kaaba coated with

similar

service

pil

plates

was done

to the Holy Place by Malik Muzaffar Ghassani of

Yaman and Hijra,

the

Malik Nasir Kalaon.

when Sultan Sulaiman

Kaaba with

a

new

roof,

of

In the year 961

Turkey covered

he also had the doors

of the holy edifice encased in silver of

solid

gold was also

made

gilt.

A

drain

in Constantinople,

59

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

and sent all

period

the Mizab-i-Eahmat.

for

that

Since

repairs to the sacred shrine

have been

carried out from time to time at the expense of

the Turkish

Government.

THE COVERING. Shah Asaad, known of

Yaman, was the

with a covering.

as

He

Tubba-i-Hamyari, King

Kaaba

to furnish the

first

did this in consequence of

a dream in which he saw himself in the act of investing the

a

second

covering. of

what

Kaaba

in

dream and But there stuff

is

the

dreamed

result

was

another

nothing on record to show

From the

the cover was made.

time of Kusai ibn Kilab

it

had been the custom to

a covering for the

provide

He

drapery.

Kaaba annually

at

the joint expense of the families of the Kuraislu

With the consent, however, Kuraish,

Abu Rabia Makhzumi,

chant, arranged to furnish

other plied

year at his it

of the families of the

jointly

in

own the

the

a wealthy

mer

covering

every

cost while

remaining

they years.

arrangement lasted during the lifetime Rabia.

Down

to

the

close

of

the

of

sup. This

Abu

Days

of

Ignorance the Kuraish continued to provide the

60

THE STORY OF A This was never changed, but each suc

covering.

ceeding year the old drapery was overlaid with a

With the

fresh one.

revelation of Islam, accord

ing to a tradition by the historian Wakidi, the

Prophet imitated

Abraham,

Yaman

his ancestor

in covering the

cloth,

Ishmael, the son of

Kaaba with

a mantle of

a practice which was followed by

the Khalifa Umar.

Azraki

is

responsible for the

legend that the practice of placing one cover over

Umar who

another ceased during the Khilafat of

ordained that the old covering should be replaced yearly by a

among the

new

one, the former being distributed

Subsequently in the time

pilgrims.

of the Khalifa

Usman

the practice of having two

coverings annually was commenced.

Amir Muaviya the

Tule of the

taken

off

Under the

old coverings were

preparatory to perfuming the

Kaaba

which was then dressed in coverings from Deba,

The covering

Jabr, and Kabata. consists of (vest)

The

two

parts, the

and the lower

following

is

called

A

put on during the period later,

Kaaba

upper called the Kamis the Izar (drawers).

the order in which the

dressed twice a year.

was added

of the

Kaaba was

covering from of pilgrimage.

on the expiry

Deba was To

this

of the first ten

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

6J

days of Muharram, an extra Izar which lasted

till

the 27th of Ramzan, when the second covering

was put on. But during the Khilafat of Mamunur-Rashid he ordered that the covering of the holy edifice should be changed three times a year.

According to this arrangement, the Kaaba

wa&

decked in scarlet from Deba during the season of the Hajj, a robe from Kabata was put on in the early part of

Rajab and was changed

for

one of

white from Deba at the festival of tke Id-ul-Fitr.

Towards the end

of

Mamun

s

reign

it

was urged

that the excessive wear to which the Izar of the

Kaaba was subjected did not admit

of its lasting

throughout the year and that consequently

newal was necessary at the time granted this request. of

Mutawakkil

in the

month

of the Id.

its re

Mamun

Later on, during the Khilafat

Alallah, a further renewal of the

of

Rajab was asked

for.

Izar

Mutawakkil

sanctioned the renewal of the Izar on each occasion

that the

covering

was changed.

the

Kamis was, moreover,

its

skirt

in

to the level

of

The length

of

increased so as to bring

the

floor.

Eventually,

the year 240 Hijra, orders were issued

that

the Izar should be changed every other month.

On

the break-up of the

Abb aside

Khilafat

the

2

THE STORY OF A

sanctuary was furnished with

sometimes by the Sultans

by the kings of tive

Yaman

of

annual covering

its

Egypt and sometimes

according as their respec

means permitted.

Ultimately the Egyptian Sultans began to send the holy covering regularly Sultan Malik every year. Salih, son of Sultan

Malik Nasir, made an endowment of two villages Bisu and Sundhis, which were purchased by him with the express object of furnishing the necessary revenues to cover the cost of the annual covering.

new King came to the supply the Kaaba with a sable

Nevertheless, whenever a

throne, he used to

and

covering for the exterior of the sanctuary

a red covering green one

for the

of the sacred

(There

is

the interior, together with a

into the

while the border

and sometimes from the

M J^ j,*x

Kalima,

woven

is

inscribed

Kuran.

The

tomb.

s

Prophet

no God but God and

Prophet), are ings,

for

When

Muhammad

body

SI

*J)

is

$

His

of these cover

sometimes with

letters

left

suitable

blank verses

Sulaiman

Sultan

of

Turkey, after fighting a battle with the Charkuses, (Circassians)

of

conquered

the Prophet received

cover

Hijaz, its

the

usual

holy

tomb

offering -of

a

from the victorious Sultan who ordered

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Egypt should continue to pay

that

63 its

religious

tribute of a black covering for the Kaaba.

When

the annual income of the villages de

and became too small to defray these ex penses, Sultan Sulaiman Khan ordered that the clined

necessary expenses should be defrayed from the

Imperial

Treasury.

Eventually

the

endowment

was increased by adding other villages to Sundhis and Bisus and the expense has since been met from

their income.

CHAPTER

V.

THE FOUNDATION OP THE MOSQUE OF THE PEOPHET (MAY THE CHOICEST PEACE DESCEND ON HIS ASHES ). !

The memorable event Prophet to Medina the

of the Flight

Illustrious.

At

took the first

holy fugitive sojourned for some time in the let of

Kuba

as the guest of

Kulthum was

the owner of a plot of land on which

technically

phet acquired

on

A

it.

been

and

known

this plot of

In Arabia such land Mirbad.

as

marked the

for

building.

lines of

He

the edifice with a spear

then asked

own

by him.

truth-

Abu Bakr

the Truthful to lay a stone next to that deposited

Pro

had previously The Prophet

laid the foundation stone with his

worshipping hands.

The

land and built a mosque

large quantity of stones

accumulated

himself

ham

Kulthum ibn Hadum.

dates were spread to dry. is

the

already

Next he asked Umar to place

another stone next to that laid by

Abu

Bakr.

Companions present on the occasion then received similar permission. In due course the All the

Kanati Mosque was

finished.

This mosque, which

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

had in

its

65

Kibla towards Jerusalem, was the

which the Prophet worshipped with

first

Com

his

panions.

few days the Prophet repaired to

After a

Medina under the divine command.

His mother

s

kinsmen, surnamed the Bani Najjar, accompan

The day

ied him.

Medina hap

of his arrival at

pened to be a Friday.

Immediately on

his

ar

he performed the Friday service with the

rival

congregation of his followers in the hollow of the Zisulb

He

valley.

which was

called

Illustrious.

The

mounted

then

his

camel,

Kaswa, and entered Medina the citizens

welcomed him with one

accord and everyone was anxious to place his house at his disposal.

and

way God

s

my

camel

order as to

sits

down, there

last

the camel

the Prophet

s

wish was genuine

the Prophet exclaimed:

heart-felt,

for

this

Though

my my

friends.

Kaswa

She has received

Wherever she

destination.

will I

take up

sat

down

mosque now

"Make

my

At

abode."

at the spot where

The Prophet,

stands.

however, was yet on her back when Kaswa got

up

of her

own

accord and sat

on before the house Prophet took up PH

of

down

a

Abu Ayyub

little

further

Ansari.

his quarters in this

The

house and 5

THE STORY OF A

66 iived in

for

it

During

this

time

mind to build a mosque, and the which Kas\va had first stopped was chosen

he made up site at

seven months.

his

ior the construction of the

s

Prophet

Mosque.

THE FIRST CONSTRUCTION. The Masjidi

author

of

the

**

Nuzhat-un-Nazirin-fi wa-1-Akhirin

Sayyad-il-Awwalini

stated that the

Mosque was a

site

plot of

selected for the

Mirbad land

"

has

Prophet

s

belonging to

two orphans, Sahl and Suhail, who were under the guardianship of Asaad ibn Zararah. When the Prophet proceeded to desired to

settle

make over the

the price, the orphans

plot as a free

gift.

The

Prophet, however, would not accept the offer on these terms

to

him

built a

and the land was thereupon sold

for ten pieces of gold.

mosque 70

The Kibla

of the

cubits long

On

this

by 60

The

trees

cubits broad.

mosque was towards Jerusalem

which in those days was the Kibla mans.

ground he

of the Musal-

standing on the ground over

which the mosque was

built

were transplanted

to the ground situated on the side of the Kibla.

There were also some graves which were levelled with the ground.

The mosque had a wall which

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

surrounded the building.

67

was

It

in this

that the Prophet continued to lead gation in the service of

Thalabi

is

line parallel to

mosque ran

the direction

now

now

Bab-ul-Atika

Rahmat

(door of mercy).

is

faces towards

now

called the

Usman s descendants)

Bab-i-Jabrail

The mosque retained year and five months. Then, door).

(Gabriel s

shape for one

this

in pursuance of the

commandment, the Kibla

following divine

was

Musalmans

called the Bab-ur-

The other was termed

the Bab-Al-i-Usman (door of

Kaaba

At

Of these one known in those days

as the

is

KMa.

The mosque had two

was a door.

other doors.

and

historian

in a straight

of the

the back of the mosque which

KMa

congre

responsible for the statement that the

northern wall of the

the

fche

The

prayer.

mosque

changed

towards

the

of the

holy

:

"Verily

We see thy

towards the heavens.

face (0 Prophet

We

shall

!)

turned

therefore turn

thy face in the direction that tnou listest. Then do thou turn thy face towards the Masjid-ul-Ha-

ram (Kaaba).

And ye

people

forthwith as he turneth his It

now became

!

turn your faces

face."

necessary to alter the mosque.

THE STORY OF A

68

The southern

was

door

opened on the opposite

closed

and one

The wall facing

side.

Com

Jerusalem was fixed as the place where the panions of the Prophet, called the should stand.

"

Ashab-i-Sufa,"

In the mosque branches of date-

palms were placed on

pillars of

for

palms

Adjoining the mosque, rooms were for

was

shade.

constructed

the accommodation of the Mothers of the

Ayesha and Suda.

Faithful,

on the

east

Prophet

s

side

of

tomb now

the

Ayesha

room was

s

where

mosque,

the

stands.

THE SECOND CONSTRUCTION. The Prophet

s

mosque was constructed a

second time during the lifetime his return to

of its

Medina from the battle

This time the building was

made

founder on

of

Khaibar.

stronger

and

more capacious. Its size was increased to a hundred cubits in each direction. The founda tion was

was

dug out to a

depth

of

3 cubits

and

The Prophet personally helped in the building by lifting bricks and stones and used to repeat: Lord there is no of

unburnt

bricks.

"0

happiness save that w^hich cometh at the

Forgive Thou the Helpers and those

last.

who have

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

The

fled."

pillars

and the

69

roofs

of

the

new

building remained as before.

THE THIRD CONSTRUCTION. In the year 17 Hijra, the Khalifa

mosque constructed for the third The area of the building was now extend

the Prophet time.

Umar had

s

ed to 140 cubits by 120 cubits.

and eastern

The western

walls were each pierced with a door

while another door was added in the front wall.

The mosque now had six instead of three but no change was made in the simple style

doors, of the

structure, except that the date-palm pillars were

replaced

remained the

by

pillars of

of the

other

wood.

The

walls

same unburnt brick and there was

same temporary

This structure lasted

roof till

of

palm branches. the month of Safar, in

the year 29 Hijra.

THE FOURTH CONSTRUCTION. The Khalifa Uthman began the fourth build ing of the Prophet s mosque in the month of Babi-ul-Awwal, 29 Hijra. The wall on the side of the Kibla

on the

side

was extended to some distance and towards Syria a

strip of

ground 10

THE STORY OF A

70 cubits

broad was included

A

mosque.

in

similar extension

the area of the

was made on the

western side, but the eastern boundary was not

The

extended.

The to

pillars also

their

walls were built of carved stones.

were

strength

and

of stone

in order to

add

they were bound with iron

Teakwood

clamps fixed with molten lead. ters

were put into the roof for shelter.

still

six doors as in the time of the Khalifa

raf

There were

Umar.

The building was completed as the moon rose on the night of the 1st of Muharram in the year 30 Hijra.

THE FIFTH CONSTRUCTION. In the year 88 Hijra, Walid bin Abdul-Malik

Amr

ordered

ibn Abd-ul-Aziz, his Governor of

Medina, to rebuild the Prophet ing out

the

commands

down and added

s

mosque.

of his master,

to the

body

of the

In carry

Amr

pulled

mosque

all

the rooms belonging to the Mothers of the Faithful

on the northern,

and southern

eastern,

the edifice, except that of the

which

and one

Lady Ayesha

of in

Two

pillars

to the western part of the

mosque

was the

were added

sides

Prophet

s

tomb.

pillar to the eastern

part.

A

portion

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. also of

Ayesha

room was included

s

71 in the

mosque. In the part of the building facing towards Syria ten

The

were added.

pillars

walls of the

mosque

were built of hewn stone, and the

pillars

also of stone strengthened with iron

clamps and

lead.

All the walls

and blue

of the roof

Ornamental work

teakwood. tiles

were decorated with marble

The beams

tiles.

were

was lavished on the

were gilded

in gold

and blue

The upper ends

interior.

of the pillars represented curious

designs in gold

and supported gilded

rafters.

doors was also gilded.

The building was completed

The wood

of

the

in the year 91 Hijra at a cost of 45,000 dinars.

ALTERATION IN CONNECTION WITH THE FIFTH CONSTRUCTION. In the year 161 Hijra, Mahdi the Abbaside enlarged the Prophet its

s

mosque, thereby increasing

length to 300 cubits and

The ground was extended

cubits.

There

of Syria.

part

of

Prophet said: to Sanaa,

it

no ground

is

made by

the additions

form

its

the

would

this

still

in the direction

for the belief that

the later Sultans do not

Prophet

"If

breadth to 180

s

mosque,

for

the

mosque were extended

be

my

mosque."

THE STORY OF A

72

THE SIXTH CONSTRUCTION.

On

the evening of Friday, the 1st

Ramazan,

654 Hijra, a servant of the mosque, going into the store-room left

to bring out the

a light there

lamps, accidentally

and the store-room caught

The flames reached the

roof of the

mosque

The Governor

anyone discovered them.

of

fire.

before

Medina

and the entire populace rushed to the scene of the conflagration and did their best to extinguish the fire,

Except the dome which

but without success.

contained the

copy

manuscript

written by the Khalifa

of

the Kuran

Uthman, the whole building

was destroyed.

The occurrence was reported that year to the Abbaside Khalifa Mustaasam Billah

who ordered the

reconstruction of the mosque.

This was begun in the early part of

655

Hijra.

The

structure,

been begun when the

however,

year 656

the year

had only

Hijra brought

martyrdom to Mustaasam Billah, and the victory to Hulaku Khan which ended in the fall of the Abbaside Khalifat. Salihi,

King

of

Then Nur-ud-din Aibak

Egypt, and Shams-ud-din ibn Amr,

King of Yaman, undertook the building. In the same year, however, Nur-ud-din Aibak was deposed,

and

his

slave

Saif-ud-din

Mahmud

73

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

The year was not complete when Malik Zahir Rukn-ud-din Bibras, the gun-bearer,

became

put

king.

Saif-ud-din

Mahmud

the kingdom of Egypt.

to

death and seized

This sovereign finished

the building which remained unaltered up to the year 704 Hijra.

ALTERATION IN CONNECTION WITH THE SIXTH CONSTRUCTION. In the year 705 Hijra, Malik Nasir

mad

Muham

ibn Kalaon Salihi ordered that the roof of

the mosque should be repaired,

was completed in the year

and the work

in the following year.

719 Hijra, Malik Nasir

had two porches added to the part

by Mukbil Kadidi

These were Hijra under

in 731

orders from King Ashraf Barsabai.

Muhammad

of the build

ing which faced towards the Kibla. repaired

Later on,

He

also recon

structed the portion of the building adjoining the Sanjaria Minaret on the Syrian side of the mosque.

The roof

as well as the Prophet s

tomb were next

repaired in the year 853 Hijra under orders from

the King Zahir architect.

After

Chakmak by Bardbak, this,

in the

year

his chief

879

Hijra,

74

THE STORY OF A

Malik

Ashraf Katibai caused his agent

Shams-

lid-din

ibn-uz-Zaman to repair the roof

of

the

mosque.

THE SEVENTH CONSTRUCTION. At an hour and-a-half before midnight on the 13th of Ramazan in the year 886 Hijra, the head Muazzin

of the

Prophet

s

Mosque had mounted

the Eaisa Minaret and was proclaiming the glory of Allah while his subordinates were

on the other

when suddenly

black cloud

minarets,

a

dense

arose

and there was such a peal

that

all

sleepers

were

of

awakened.

thunder

Lightning

struck the hilal (crescent) of the Raisa Minaret,

and

the

killed

head Muazzin.

It

pierced

upper roof and the beams caught

fire.

traversed the lower roof and set

on

it

the

Then fire.

it

The

midway between the Raisa Minaret and the Prophet s tomb and in an instant the fire

started

roofs of both the storeys

vants

were burnt.

The

ser

the

Mosque flung open the doors and the alarm was given. The Governor of of

Medina and every possible

all

the

citizens

effort to

ran up and made

put down the

fire

but the

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

more they

75

more the flames grew. la a short time the whole edifice was on fire, and the tried the

was

interior

like a

keeper and some ten in

perished

Uthman phet

s

s

or

the flames.

manuscript of

its

assistant store

twenty other persona

The dome containing the Kuran and the Pro

tomb, including the

remained uninjured, but with

The

furnace.

all

huge torches

it,

the rest of the mosque

furniture was destroyed.

ful that while

adjoining

pillars

of

It

was wonder

flames

fell

on the

adjoining structures, these portions remained un scathed, while in the

mosque

itself

the

fire

raged

The catas

so furiously as to burn everything.

trophe was reported on the 16th Kamazan, 886 Hijra, to king Ashraf

Katibai

in

Egypt,

ordered the reconstruction of the mosque.

who This

time the mosque was erected at a cost of 1,20,000 dinars.

A dome

was

built over the

Musalla of

the mosque and great pains were taken in structure

and

decoration.

A dome

was

its

also

erected over the Mihrab-i-Uthmani (arch of Uth-

man), and the portion of the ground which had

been detached from the Prophet

s

grave and in

corporated in the body of the mosque was retransferred to the holy

tomb.

76

THE STORY OF A

IMPROVEMENTS. Subsequently in the year 999 Hijra Sultan

Murad Khan added

more porches to the

three

These porches were constructed in the

mosque.

yard adjoining the part of the building towards the Kibla.

THE EIGHTH CONSTRUCTION. In the year 1263 Hijra, when the latest build ing of the Prophet

Daud Pasha,

mosque was 400 years

s

the Governor of Medina, in consul

tation with the chief

men

to Sultan Abd-ul-Majid

being his

very

old,

of the city, represented

Khan

renewal,

required

old,

that the building,

attention to the matter.

and asked

Accordingly in the

year 1265 Hijra the Engineers Ramzi Eflendi and

Uthman

Effendi were sent

Medina to inspect they submitted

it.

a

by the Sublime Porte to

After examining the building full

report

to

the

Turkish

Government which ordered the holy edifice to be This time the building was to be erected rebuilt. on a grander

scale

than ever.

Halim Eflendi was

appointed Architect-in- Chief and an army of skilful artisans

and masons

with him.

On

with their tools were sent

landing at

Yambu

the Architect-

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. in-Chief

was

of opinion that a

found near Medina to materials before the

be begun.

facilitate

work

77

quarry must be the

supply

of

of construction could

Ibrahim Agha with a few artisans was

accordingly deputed to Medina to look for a suit

The party reached the holy city in the beginning of Rajab, 1266 Hijra, and began to search for a source from which good stone could able quarry.

be obtained. Cornelian)

In the Wadi-ul-Akik (valley of the

which

lies

about

three

from

miles

Medina, the party came across an excellent quarry near Ali like

s

spring, the stones

cornelians.

from which were red

The author

of the

Nuzhat-un-

Nazirin states that a Beduin supplied the party

with information as to this quarry.

On

discover

ing the spot they were anxious to reward their

informant and searched

much

for him,

but in vain.

A camp

was quickly pitched near the quarry for the accommodation of the workmen, and the work of

At

hewing and shaping the stones was commenced. this

time

Muhammad

Rashid Effendi Azmiri

held the post of Muhafiz Pasha in Medina.

Halim

Effendi, the Architect-in-Chief, thinking that

some

time must elapse before the actual work of con struction could begin, resolved to avail himself of

THE STORY OF A

78

He

the interval in order to perform the Hajj.

accordingly

entrusted

duty

and

made

over charge to Sharif Effendi,

Muhammad

wages among the workmen,

of distributing set out

on

his

Kashid EfTendi with the

journey to Mecca, where he

Before Halim Eflendi

died.

Ashraf

s

summoned

had been

Effendi

departure for Mecca,

stantinople on urgent business and with a T. 75,000

at his

where he arrived

He

too

EfTendi,

with the

died

proceeded

disposal

Imamzada

The

who had gone pilgrimage, now

to

sum

of

Mecca

death of Halim Effendi.

after the

there.

Con

to

to

Mecca

Asaad

in connection

received orders from the

Sultan to go straight to Medina after performing the Hajj and there to supervise the construction of the

Prophet

order the

s

Mosque.

Imamzada went

In pursuance of this to Medina.

After a

few days he appointed Abd-ul-Latif Effendi, the

Turkish Treasurer, to be Muhafiz

Medina and

in place of

conferred

the

Muhammad post

of

Building upon Badri ErTendi.

(guardian) of

Rashid Effendi

Secretary to

He

the

then devoted

himself to the task of supervising the construc tion of the mosque.

In the meantime Mir Miran

Pasha, Governor of Tripoli, received instructions

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

79

from the Sublime Porte to proceed to Medina and take over charge of the construction of the

He

sacred edifice.

on the 22nd

of

accordingly arrived at Medina

Shaaban,

1267

accom

Hijra,

panied by Hafiz Effendi and Izzat Erlendi, two skilled

masons.

A wooden

model

mosque was prepared under

of the

surmounted with a tiny dome cut out obtained from the

proposed

his orders.

It

was

of a stone

new quarry and was

so highly

polished and burnished as to

exactly resemble

a piece of flesh-coloured agate.

This model was

then sent in charge of the two masons to the Sultan

When

had been approved the work of building was taken in hand on the Syrian side, and the mosque was gradually completed for inspection.

it

and assumed the magnificent appearance which it

now

of

my

this

presents.

In order not to tax the patience

readers and to avoid prolixity I

shall

end

Chapter with the accompanying photographs

of the mosque.

A WONDERFUL NATURAL PHENOMENON. A

wonderful

natural

phenomenon

of mention in this connection.

is

worthy

While the foun

dation was being excavated between the Sutun-

THE STORY OF A

80

ut-Tauba us-Sarir

(pillar (pillar

and the Sutun-

of repentence)

which constitutes

of the throne)

the space at the head of the Prophet

s

tomb,

there appeared a spring of water, the fragrance of

which spread around.

Several people tried

found the water wholesome and of the water gift,

was

and the

fit

to drink.

citizens of it.

Medina at

The

large

spring,

had the

however,

obstructed the work of construction and the of

the building had

foundation was then

filled

it

The

officer

The

closed.

up and, instead

water, rose-water was freely employed as a of reverence.

Some

also sent to the Sultan as a sacred

good fortune to taste

in charge

and

it

of

mark

building was completed

at

the end of Zihaj, 1277 Hijra, at a cost of T.650,000,

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

SUPPLEMENT TO BOOK

81 I.

NUMISMATICAL STATEMENT SHOWING THE ARABIAN CURRENCY.

EGYPTIAN COINS CURRENT IN ARABIA.

PH

THE STORY OF A PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. EGYPTIAN COINS.

(concld.)

A DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS SHRINES IN ARABIA. ADEN. THE TOMBS OF THE SHAIKH AlDRUS AND HIS TWO SONS AND NEPHEWS. One cemetery contains The tomb-stones are not but are the height

of a

all

the five

graves.

those in India,

flat like

man.

THE TOMB OF ABAN, THE SON OF UTHMAN (MAY GOD BE PLEASED WITH HIM !). Aban was Khalifa,

son

the

of

Uthman, the

not by the Prophet

s

third

daughter, but by

another wife.

SHRINES BETWEEN ADEN

AND JEDDAH. MOUNT YALAMLAM.

There

is

a rock

named Yalamlam

near Jeddah, the limits of which are

the learned.

It

is

clothes) should be

ing this rock.

The ceremony

upper part

(partial

of their

to

put on after pass

of the

performing the ghusl (total

the wazu

known

a religious ordinance that the

ihram (sacred

after

in the sea

ablution) the

ihram

is

ablution)

men

this

:

and

cover the

body with a sheet and wrap

another sheet round their lower limbs.

They keep

THE STORY OF A

84

The women

their heads bare.

and

after bathing

performing ablution continue to wear their ordinary clothes,

but do not cover their faces with a

The use the

of perfumes,

nails, oiling

eating spiced food,

and combing the

eyes with surma

veil.*

paring

hair, painting

the

(powdered antimony), applying

missi f to the teeth, wearing more ornaments than usual, dressing in

beautifying the hands with henna, conjugal

lace,

intercourse,

ment

killing

game on

being, and indulging

living

of

gay clothes edged with gold or silver

land, destroying in mirth

are forbidden to those in ihram.

ihram vary with the object is

of the

ihram

"A

black),

(Burton t

A

women It

s

dress, after

woman may wear sewn

but her

in

Umra,% the pilgrim

the

object

*

any and amuse

face-veil should

he has

The

rules

If

<^iew.

the

divests himself

made

clothes, white

the circuit

or light

blue (not

be kept at a distance from her

face."

pilgrimage to Almadina and Mecca.)

powder prepared from

vitriol,

etc.,

which

is

used by the

of India to blacken their teeth.

Pilgrimage in Islam is of two kinds. When a pilgrim pays a the Kaaba at the appointed time of the year and goes through course of the prescribed ritual, he is said to have performed the

visit to

a full

Hajj (simple pilgrimage). Any visit to the sanctuary out of season for a similar purpose is known as the Umra (the lesser pilgrimage). The latter differs in some of its forms from the former. Hajj-i-akbar the great pilgrimage), which has been distinguished by some as a separate division, in reality partakes of the nature of the simple pilgrimage ; only it is regarded as more auspicious because during its course the day of

"

Arafat

"

happens to

fall

on a Friday.

,

85

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Kaaba and accomplished the run between

of the

Safa and Marwa.

hulk and

Jcasr

After the ihram

take place.

If

taken

is

the Hiram

is

assum

ed with a view to performing the Hajj, the

grim divests himself of

it

off

pil

he has performed

after

the circuit of the Kaaba, the run between the Safa

and the Marwa, the

the hulk, and the kasr.

sacrifice,

The hulk (shaving) and the nify tonsure of the

whole

kasr

(cropping)

or part

of

the

finger breadths off the locks in the case of

every

of

these rules

man and woman and

Yaman

is

women.

obligatory

upon

each time that he or she

performs the Hajj or Umra.

Egypt,

head

and cutting four

or a complete shaving for men,

The observance

sig

put

Pilgrims from India,

on the

ihram

from

Yalamlam and provide themselves with the hadi (victims) at Aden.

Pilgrims from Medina, on the

other hand, assume the sacred garb at Zu-1-Halifa

from Zu-1-

and bring the hadi

all

Halifa or Medina.

For pilgrims from Syria and

the

way

either

Najd, Hajfa and Karn respectively are the places

from which the ihram

is

put on and the hadi

obtained.

Hadi

signifies

which are brought

victims, for

i.e.,

sacrifice.

those animals Sheep, goats,

86

THE STORY OF A

camels,

the

who

and drink

clothed

look with great care after their food

they are

till

meantime

are in the

above by the intending

mentioned

places

pilgrims

and bullocks are imported from

cows,

and

according to

well fed,

adorned

The animals

sacrificed.

and they are

the

at

the means of

time of

richly

sacrifice

After

the pilgrims.

the sacrifice their ornamental trappings and their flesh

are

distributed in

themselves

consume

also

The adornment

of

The

charity.

the

pilgrims

meat.

sacrificial

the victim, however,

obligatory, but depends

on

the

means

is

of

not the

pilgrims.

Seven pilgrims one cow.

Very few

may

kine, however, are

ed on the occasion. are

the

"Fatten

over the

usual-

Camels, sheep,

offerings.

victims;

your

share in the sacrifice of

The they

slaughter

and goats

Prophet will

says

:

convey you

Sirat."

THE POET OF JEDDAH. The Tomb Save the tomb is

of

of Eve.

Eve, the wife of Adam, there

no celebrated monument in Jeddah.

city- wall

enclosing

about the height

the

town

of the waist.

stand

Outside the

two

walls

These walls run

87

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

some 300 paces and at either end them stands a diminutive dome. In the centre

for a distance of

of is

a

"Eve s

This

dome.

large

Navel.

dome

is

called

People are required to pray

"*

dome.

inside this

central

The tomb

is

surrounded by a

vast enclosure which contains a large

number

of

graves.

THE MOSQUE OF ZAKHARIAH. Jeddah abounds is

in

mosques

of

which one

celebrated as Zakhariah s Mosque.

MASJID-I-JAMI.

Mos

There^is also a Masjid-i-Jami (Central

Before the Friday prayer the Khutba

que).

* It will be

Burton

s lucid

interesting

account.

to

compare

To quote from

his

this

with

Sir

is

Richard

monumental work

"Pil

grimage to Al Madina and Mecca The mother is supposed to lie, like a Moslemah fronting the Kaabah, with her feet northwards, her head southwards, and her right cheek propped by her right hand. Whitewashed and conspicu :

"

ous to the voyager and traveller from afar, is a diminutive dome with an opening to the west ; it is furnished as such places usually are in

Al Hijaz. Under it and in the centre is a square stone, planted up right and fancifully carved, to represent the omphalic region of the

human

frame.

the Navel

This as well as the dome, is called As Surrah or Having prayed here and at the head, where

a few young trees grow, we walked along the side of the two parallel dwarf walls which define the outlines of the body they are about six ;

paces

apart."

THE STORY OP A

88 thus read

the Khatib (preacher) takes his stand

:

on the pulpit with the asa (emblematic rod) in his hand, throws a mantle over his head, and recites

the Khuiba.

MASJID-I-HUDAIBIA NEAR THE SACRED

PRECINCTS OF THE KAABA. This incident.

mosque commemorates a memorable Once when the Prophet went to Mecca

to perform the Hajj

the idolators of

stood him.

possible effort

Every

induce them to give

At

last the

Mecca with was made to

way but they were

Prophet sent

inflexible.

his sacrificial offerings

to Mecca and returned to Medina without per

forming the Hajj.

While negotiations were going

on and terms being made the

Prophet

mosque was

memory

stayed here

with the

and

Meccans,

prayed, and

a

subsequently built on the spot in

of the event.

Pilgrims visit this

mosque

where they pray with two rakaats (bows).

Near Hudaibia there is a plain bounded by two hills.

From

this plain,

which is called the Kahwa-

commence, and from here reverence for the House of God becomes

i-Shamsia, the Sacred Precincts

a duty, and appropriate prayers begin to belaid.

89

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

THE BOUNDARY OF THE HOLY GROUND. Persons entering the holy ground must not

pluck a twig, branch,

tree standing thereon,

any

play nor

flower, or fruit

leaf,

from

and must not hunt nor

jest.

MECCA THE MAGNIFICENT. The

Lady Ayesha

Taim, where there

s

Mosque.

a mosque,

is

situated

is

at a distance of about six miles from the (the

sacred

cluding

Dwellers in

precincts).

every person

who

enters

Haram

Mecca

(in

Mecca before

the month of Shawwal) commence the performance of

the

Umra from

in the following

goes to the

then

says

this

manner

mosque. :

done

mosque and puts on the ihram. He two rakaats of prayer and subse

Kaaba

of

After the circuit he

between Safa

am

I)

repairs

which he makes the

circuit.

prays two rakaats near the

Standing-place of Abraham.

and Marwa

themselves shaved and

foot

is

The intending pilgrim

quently calling out Labbaik (here to the

This

The pilgrim then runs after

which

women have

men

get

their hair cut.

The person performing the Umra may go on or use a conveyance. The general rule is

90

THE STORY OF A

that as long as a person cincts he

is

within the sacred pre

not bound to wear the ihram.

is

must, however, put

it

on

after leaving the holy

if,

precincts, he washes to re-enter

take

it

He

them and he may

again after he has gone through the

off

The inhabitants

prescribed ritual.

forbidden to perform the

mencement

of the

month

of

Umra from

of

Mecca are the

Shawwal to the

com close

of the Hajj.

Taim of

is

really the

name

of the hill at the foot

which stands the Lady Ayesha

s

Mosque. Ayesh a

was ordered by the Prophet to commence the rites of is

the

Umra from

this spot

and the practice

observed by most of the followers of the Sunni

sect.

Bm-i-TuwA. Outside the city of Mecca within the sacred precincts

the

is

a well called the

Prophet

bathed.

Bir-i-Tuwa at which

Pilgrims

therefore

hold

a bathing here to be a source of blessing and

means

of

salvation.

Adjoining the Bir-i-Tuwa

is

a mosque called

Zi-Tuwa where the Prophet passed a night bathing at the

well.

after

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

91

MASJID-I-JEZRANA.

On

the

way

to the desert of Hunain, 8 or 9

from Mecca, stands the Jezrana mosque.

miles

Sunnis frequently, and Shias and Shafts generally, begin the ritual of the

Umra from

this

mosque.

The Umra thus performed is called the Great Umra. It occupies three days, one for the

way and one

journey each

for the sojourn at

Mecca.

JABAL-I-NUR. Outside

Mecca within the sacred precincts

and on the way to Mina stands the Jabal-i-Nur of Light). ( Mountain Pilgrims visit this place from Mecca.

They

either travel

conveyance according to their riving at the foot of the to leave

are.

It

thorns.

On

a

ar

mountain pilgrims have

conveyances and ascend the

hill

foot.

is

moreover obstructed by brambles and

The pathway up the mountain

trace of water or vegetation

at

means.

in

The track leading up the mountain uneven and as bad as mountain tracks usually

side is

on

their

on foot or

nearly two

miles

in

has no

and may be reckoned

length.

92

THE STORY OF A

THE JABAL-I-NUR MOSQUE.

On grims

the Jabal-i-Nur

visit

is

a mosque which

pil

and where they pray.

THE CAVE OF HIRA. This cave is

is

a hollow in the Jabal-i-Nur and

The Prophet used to spend

capped by a dome.

much

of his

grims

visit

time in prayer at

the

dome

this place.

Pil

saying prayers suited to the

They then pray two raJcaats of nafl Here they (supererogation) and enter the cave. pray and rest a while.

occasion.

The

form

architectural

that which

we

see in India,

i.e.,

it

archways surmounted by a domed is

dome

of the

resembles

consists of four

roof.

The shrine

kept fragrant with sweet scent.

PLACE OF THE FIRST KEVELATION. This sacred spot i-Nur.

An uneven

and broad

is

track,

in others, runs

ed above. pass along

Where it

it

is

narrow

under the

on the Jabal-

in

some

dome

places

describ

narrow, one person can

with difficulty.

this path, the pilgrim

resting

also situated

Having traversed

comes across a huge rock

on three immense boulders.

It

has an

93

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

entrance on one side through which the pilgrim goes

two

recites

in,

the prescribed orisons, and says

raJcaats of prayer.

This

the place where the Surah Ikra was

is

revealed.

JABAL-I-SAUR. This

ated is

is

a mountain outside the City and situ

within

some

the

sacred precincts.

six or eight miles in length.

tain has a cave

which

visited

is

and the road up to it is very much so that in some places one has walk on

this

difficult,

to ut

After

fours.

all

The moun

by MusalmaB

pilgrims

in others to

The ascent

aad

climbing

road, the pilgrim reaches a cave which

named

Ghar.

The mouth

is

so

is

very small, being

only two or three cubits high and perhaps a span

and a

half wide.

There

a path into

is

it

which

has existed since the time of the Prophet. exit at the

back

of the cave

The reason that pilgrimages is this.

When

is

are

sufficiently broad.

made

the Prophet fled from

concealed himself in the cave with Siddik.

After he had entered

built their nest at its

The

it,

to this

cave

Mecca, he

Abu Bakr

a pair of pigeons

mouth and

laid their eggs,

THE STORY OF A

94

while a spider span

web over

its

time the Meccans had visited the

mean

In the

it.

Prophet

house

s

and, failing to find him there, sought eagerly for

The tiacker

him.

to

Kuraish idolaters Thinking that, the

if

it

mouth

the

any one had gone

the

of in,

the nest and

must be empty and went back.

in

and

resting

hen

The Prophet then followed head on Abu Bakr g lap fell

and cleaned

went

"W

Abu Bakr

the Prophet was about to enter the cave,

his

it.

Abu Bakr

asleep.

cave.

possibly be intact, they conclud

web could not

ed that

Abu-Jahl and the other

led

stuffed every hole

tore his

and cranny

shirt to

pieces

in the rock with the

shreds to prevent any poisonous animal from ing and disturbing the Prophet crevice remained unclosed

Bakr placed the big toe

and

s rest.

com

One small

and against

this

of his right foot. It

Abu hap

pened by chance that a snake which Uved in this hole bit

his

movement on repose,

hole

the

;

toe.

Fearful,

his part

Abu Bakr

lest

however,

any

should disturb the Prophet

did not

move the

s

toe from the

but the strength of the poison and pain of

wound were

sacred cheek of

so great that his tears

the

Prophet,

eyes and, learning what

fell

on the

who opened

had happened,

his

applied

95

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. his saliva to the

wound.

This relieved the pain,

healed the wound, and counteracted the of the

poison at the time.

Tradition, however,

Abu Bakr

says that at the time of

ill-effects

s

death the

poison which had lain dormant in his system re

vived so that he obtained the glory of martyrdom.

The Prophet remained hidden in this cave for three days and on the fourth day, which was the

first

Muharram, he

of

left

Hijra era commences from this date.

grimage to the

cave

is

their

its

rocky

The

pil

undertaken because the

Prophet passed three days in

body touched

The

Medina.

for

and

his

sacred

Pilgrims

spend

it

sides.

time here in prayers and supplication.

JANNAT-UL-MUALLA. (The Lofty Paradise.) This of

is

Mecca

as

a cemetery in which the inhabitants well as those pilgrims

who happen

to die in Mecca are buried. tains the graves of

following 1.

Prophet.

The cemetery con many famous persons. The

may be noted as the most

The grave

of

aoteworthy

Amina, the mother

:

of the

THE STORY OF A

3

The grave

2.

mother

of the

of the Faithful,

Khadijat-ul-Kubra, the wife of the Prophet and the mother of Fatima.

The grave

3.

of

Abu

Abd-ur-Rahman, the son

of

Bakr.

The

4.

the

of

grave

grandfather of

tomb has been

Saint Aidrus whose

the

described in

the account of Aden.

The grave The grave

5.

6.

There are

Saint Ibn Alwan.

of

Saint

of

Umar

Arabi.

other tombs of lesser note,

many

at which visitors pray.

MAKAN-I-SHA B-UN-NUE. (Place of the

Volley of Light.)

The Jannat-ul-Mualla rounded by a chain

of

hills. "

is

a broad plain, sur

In the plain lies a plot

of land

known

as the

which

said

tradition to contain the bodies of

is

by

seventy thousand saints graves

on the day

pilgrims dig

graves

wherever they It his

was in

army

of

of

may

Makan-i-Sha b-un-Nur

who

will rise

judgment. here in

the

from their

Many

ignorant

belief

die, their spirits will find

this plain

that

them.

that the Prophet with

the Faithful encamped at the time

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

and

of the conquest of Mecca,

97

was here that

it

he made the necessary military dispositions.

The place

the

are

following

graves

principal

in

this

:

1.

The

2.

The grave

of

Shaikh Abd-ul-Wahab the

The grave

of

Shaikh Abd-ul-Wahab the

Shaikh Farid-ul-Gharib.

of

grave

Great. 3.

Less.

These graves

are

visited

by

who

pilgrims

pray at them.

AND MASJID-I-SHAJRA.

MASJID-I-JlXN

a

mosque known as

The Jinns

are said to have

Outside Mecca there the Mas j id -i- Jinn.

embraced Islam at the chapter of the

was

mosque, these

this place

and

it

Kuran known

Here

revealed.

is

called the

mosques are

too

as

was here that "The

Jinns"

another celebrated

is

Masjid of the Tree.

Both

by Musalmans who

visited

hold them in great veneration.

THE SHAIBI

S

WARD. surrounding

the

Mount Abu Kubais.

At

Adjoining the habitations

House HP

of

God

stands

7

THE STORY OP A

98

the foot of this mountain Shaibi Sahib

lies

who keeps the key

the house of the

of the holy

Kaaba.

The pathway leading up to the mountain habited by Beduins and is about a mile

From the

the summit a very clear view

holy

is

is

in

long.

obtained of

the path of circuit, and the

Kaaba,

grounds of the sacred precincts, so

much

the

circuit

of the

the traditional

site of

of

figures

Kaaba can be

those

making the

plainly

recognised.

Mount Abu Kubais the miracle

known

of the moon),

known

as

c

and

as

it

ShakJc-ul-Kamr

w as T

The Moon

BILAL

is

S

so that

(splitting

here that the chapter w^as revealed.

MOSQUE.

Upon Mount Abu Kubais stands a mosque named after Bilal, the Abyssinian Muazzin (Crier) of the Prophet.

The pilgrim

prays two Rakaats in

it

visiting

by way

of

this

mosque

a devotional

offering.

THE PLACE OF SAINT

SANUSI.

Upon Mount Abu Kubais stands also a house which takes its name from Sanusi, who was one of the holy Saints.

99

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

THUKAK-UL-WASTA. (Central Lane.)

This

is

the

monument

a

site of

in

which

rest

the ashes of the great Shaikh Taj-ud-din.

THE CITY OF MECCA. The Mosque

On the day

of

Hasn.

of the conquest of

Mecca, the Pro

phet set up his ensign on a house, and to

morate

this incident the

at the spot. This

mosque

mosque

SHA

is

of

comme

Hasn was

an object

built

of pilgrimage.

AB-I-AMIR. s date.)

(Amir

The dwelling place and the grave of Say yad AH Badri are both here; and by the road of the

Umra of

pilgrimage

Shaikh

is

another grave said to be that

Mahmud

bin

Ibrahim-i-Adham. The

grave of Abdullah, the son of Umar, also the same path and with martyrs.

Pilgrims

it

visit

are the graves all

lies

in

of other

these.

jABAL-I-HlNDI.

(Mount Hindi.) This place ul-Jauhari.

is

noted for the grave of the Sahib-

THE STORY OF A

100

FORT OP MECCA. Under the

walls of this fort

of the Saint Shaikh

Abu

lies

the

grave

Said.

SAFA MARWAH. This

was

the

Great, the second

dwelling

Here he

Khalifa.

was converted to Islam.

It

of

place

is

visited

Umar

the

lived,

and

by

pilgrims.

SUKAK-UL-MAAZIAH. (The

little

lane

;

the inn of Uthman, the 3rd

Khalifa.)

There

Inn

of

is

a travellers

Uthman.

A

known

rest here

Ber tree

(Zizyplius

as the

jujuba)

stands in the court-yard, the leaves of which said to possess the power of curing fever are burnt

aad the smoke

is

inhaled

if

are

they

by the patient.

TONGUE OE STONE. Here a piece

of stone sticks

out from the

rock regarding which the following tradition ex

Once while the Prophet (on whose ashes descend the choicest peace!) \vas on his way

ists

:

towards the Kaaba to join the

service of prayer

Satan appeared before him in

human form and

101

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. % tried to deceive

him by saying that

as the service

was already over he need not go on to the Kaaba. As he said this a tongue came out of the rock and c

him

cried to

desireth to

This

deceive thee.

Go thou

begun.

has not

Prayer

"

on.

who

Satan the accursed

is

Accordingly

yet

the Prophet

God where he found the

hastened to the House of

assembled congregation waiting for him.

This

is

a

holy place.

THUKAK-UL-HAJAR. (Stone Lane.)

The house

of the blessed

Lady Fatima, the r

daughter of the

Prophet,

is

situated

here

and

next to stands the house of her mother Khadijatul-Kubra, the mother of the Faithful. this

house

cistern.

tions in it

his

known and

a

cell

a

containing

diminutive

The Prophet used to perform his ablu this cistern and pray in the cell. And

was from

on

is

Adjoining

way

this cell that

he went to the Kaaba

to the highest heaven.

as the Ibadat

Khana

close to it stands the

dik, the first Khalifa.

The

cell

is

(Place of devotion),

abode

of

Abu Bakr

Sid-

102

RUKUMA. This

the site of the graves of two holy

is

persons, both of

them named Abbas. SUK-UL-LiAIL.

This

is

the place where the Prophet was born.

JABAL-UMAE. This

is

a

by Umar the

hill

on which stands a mosque built

Great, the second Khalifa.

JAYYAD.

Here

the house of Shaikh

is

Abu Haddad.

SHABIKA.

The grave

of the

Saint

Mahjub

is

situated

here,

THE SHARIF

S

WARD.

Adjoining the house of the Sharif of Mecca is

the grave of Shaikh

Uthman

Haruni.

MlNKALA. This Khalifa,

is

the birthplace of

and

uncle of the

the Prophet

of the Prince of Martyrs

Prophet. s

Abu Bakr,

nurse,

is

The mosque also

the

first

Hamza, the of

Halima,

situated here.

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

103

SHAIKH ABD-UL.KADIR JILANI S HOUSE. In the city of Mecca

is

situated the house of

Ghaus-ul-Azam, Mahbub-i-Subhani, Shaikh Abdul.Kadir Jilani (on sings

whom

descend the divine bles

!).

SHAAB-I-ALL

(AWs

date.)

Adjoining the Suk-ul-Lail

Abu

of Ali, son of

is

the

date-palm

Talib, the fourth Khalifa,

where

the Khalifa Ali was born.

DAR-I-ARKAM. (House of ArJcam.) This house

When

is

situated on the

hill

of

Safa.

persecuted by the Kuraish idolaters, the

Prophet found shelter here for a few days.

KAVIAT-UZ-ZIKK BIL-SAFA. This

is

a well-known locality.

MASJID-UR-EAABI. This

is

a mosque situated at the extreme end

of the principal bazar of Mecca,

SAYYAD. There

is

a mosque here of this name.

THE STORY OF A

104

JASKUL. This

the

is

site of

the grave of Sayyaduna

Shaikh Mahmud.

SUK-UL-MUALLA. (The Chief MarJcet.)

Here are the Masjid-ul-Rabiya and

other

places of pilgrimage.

SAFA AND MARWA. Close to a corner of the called

On

Safa.

Kaaba

the top of

quadrangle, each side of which

is

an eminence

it

stands a roofless

is

pierced

by

three

archways, and exactly opposite this at a distance of about 255 paces,

On

this also there

there is

a building

The run from Safa to Marwa This

pilgrimage,

called

to

go

between

seven the

of

times

two

Marwa.

called Sai (course).

the rites of the

repeated seven times,

is

pilgrim has

forwards

is

which forms one

run,

another eminence.

is

that

is

backwards

places, reciting

the

and the

hymns and verses from the Between Safa and Marwa is a stretch

whole time suitable

Kuran.

of ground called Milain, across

women walk

which men run and

at their usual pace.

105

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Tradition says that under divine dispensation,

the Prophet

Abraham

Hagar with his little the spot which is now marked by

son Ishmael at the well of

Zamzam.

(The incident has been fully

Book

described in

left

I

in

connection

with

the

account of the construction of the holy Kaaba.)

Hagar placed her infant son on the spot and while searching for water covered the distance between

and

Safa

backwards. infant

Marwa

seven

times

forwards

and

In her strong desire to protect the

and to obtain water, she descended slowly

from the heights from which Ishmael could be seen, ran across the Milain, and slowly ascended the

ris

ing ground in front of her, so that she could keep

the child in view.

For

this

reason the law of

Islam has included the practice of the run in the rites of

made

pilgrimage and has

obligatory

upon

all

its

^observance

pilgrims.

DOORWAYS OF THE SACRED PRECINCTS. The Sacred Precincts doorways thus

are furnished with 24

:

1.

Bab-ul-Islam

2.

Bab-uz-Ziadah

3.

Bab-i-Ali

:

:

with 3 arches side by side. :

3 arches.

3 arches.

THE STORY OF A

106 4.

Bab-ul- Abbas

5.

Bab-ul- Wurud

6.

Bab-i-Umm-i-Hani

7.

Bab-i-Sharif

8.

Bab-i-Mujahid

9.

Bab-i-Safa

3 arches.

:

2 arches.

:

2 arches.

:

2 arches.

:

2 arches.

:

2 arches.

:

2 arches.

10.

Bab-i- Jihad

11.

Bab-ul-Baghla

:

12.

Bab-un-Aufus

:

13.

Bab-un-Nabi

:

2 arches.

14.

Bab-i-Dariba

:

1

15.

Bab-i-Sulaimani

16.

Bab-ul-Mahkama

:

17.

Bab-ul-Kutaibi

1

18.

Bab-ul-Wasta

19.

Bab-ul- Akik:

20.

Bab-ul-Umra

Pilgrims

:

2

arches.

2 arches.

arch. 1

:

:

1

arch.

arch.

1 :

arch*

arch.

1

:

arch

arch.

1

Umra

performing the

Sacred Precincts through this

enter

the

doorway to make

the circuit of the Kaaba. ?

21.

Bab-ul- Widaa

When leaving the

:

1

arch.

Mecca, pilgrims enter and leave

Sacred Precincts through this doorway, per*

forming the 22.

circuit of farewell.

Bab-ul- Akil:

1

arch.

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. 23.

Bab-i-Ibrahim

24.

Bab-uz-Zamania

1

:

:

107

arch. arch.

1

ZAMZAM. This cincts.

is

a well situated within the Sacred Pre

Kaaba and

It adjoins the

which was created

for

is

the spring

It has been describ

Ishmael.

ed in Book I in connection with the building of the

Zamzam

Kaaba.

The water

esteem.

Pilgrims bathe at

of

is

this

held in great

well,

put on the ihram and begin their

and then pilgrimage*

They also bathe here when they enter the Kaaba. The Zamzamis (those who dispense the holy water) offer it

it

for partial

journey carry

as a drink to the pilgrims

it

in water-bags

homes where they healthy drink

it

distribute

is

also soak in

laid

down

Zamzam away After

any boon may be asked be granted.

homeward

jars to their

Those who are its

sacred origin

water a piece of

to serve as a shroud.

that this water shall be drunk

in a standing posture.

will

and

use

sick in order to gain health.

linen which they put It

their

it.

on account of

and those who are People

and on

ablution,

who

it

has been drunk

for in the belief

Most people break

that it

their fast with

THE STORY OF A

108 it.

Well-to-do pilgrims set up sheds to distribute

Mina, and on the

the water at Arafat, Muzdalifa,

Umra

The water

route.

generally given to the

is

dying to drink, and the rich have their dead washed in

it.

In short the water

eminently blessed and

The supply however much

Zamzam

is

be used,

may

at

3. 4.

it

pre

holy purposes.

never varies and

ne /er decreases in

of

Mecca

certain

that

say,

specified

dates.

:

The night The night

of the 15th of

Shaban.

of the 21st of

Ramazan.

The night The night

of the

23rd of Ramazan.

of the

25th of Kamazan.

6.

The night of the 27th The 1st of Shawwal.

7.

The 7th

8.

The 10th

5.

is

always holy, but has a special sanctity

on the following dates

2.

all

Zamzam

of

overflows

This water

1.

used for

is

The inhabitants

quantity.

Zamzam

of

of

of

Ramazan.

Shawwal.

of

Muharrum. j

HAJAR-I-IBRAHIM. (The Stone This

ham

is

of

Abraham.)

the stone on which the patriarch Abra

stood while building the Kaaba.

(Mention

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. has been

made

of

it

Book

in

I in

connection with

The stone bears

the construction of the Kaaba.)

two

foot-prints looking exactly as

had sunk

in soft earth, or as

if

these cavities with

of

it,

and

Zamzam

carry the rest

the two feet

two oval stone

if

mortars had been placed side by fill

109

side.

Pilgrims

some

water, drink

them

with

to

their

homes. Close to the Hajar-i-Ibrahim stands a small

bungalow-shaped

rahim( Abraham it

on one

side

called

building s

Standing-place).

and pass out on the

the circuit has been

made the

Makam-i-IbPilgrims enter other.

After

pilgrim says

two

Rakaats of prayer in this building and engages in devotion and supplication.

MAKAM-I-MUSALLA (The Hanifites* Inside the

Haram

prayer) surmounted

the sect.

Imam

place of is

prayer.)

a Musalla (place of

by two

brass spires where

of the Hanifis prays with those of his

The majority

and Turkistan

of the inhabitants of India

are Hanifis.

THE STORY OF A

110

MAKAM-I MUSALLA SHAFAL (The Shafaites* place

of prayer.}

This Musalla, which stands close to tie well of

Zamzam, has

a single brass spire.

apart for the worship of the

It is set

Shafaites,

i/he

sect

to which most Arabs belong.

MAKAM-I-MUSALLA MALIKI. (The

At

place

of

prayer.)

Musalla, which has one brasd spire,

this

Imam

the

MaliJcites

of the Malikis

stands to pray.

The

people of ihe Western countries are for the most parts Malikis.

MAKAM-I-MUSALLA HAMBALI. (The Hambalis

The Hambalis Most

place of prayer.)

Musalla has one brass

Arabs are followers of the

The four Musallas above belong

Hambali

spire.

school.

to the Sunnis

;

the Shiahs and the Kharrjis have no concern with

them.

THE HOLY

From

this pulpit,

the Khutba

two

Ids.

is

PULPIT.

which stands in the Kaaba,

recited every Friday

and on the

Ill

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

THE DOME OF THE LIBRARY. This library, which,

is

an endowment,

tains a large collection of books

In

the Kaaba. Khamis."

the

Kaaba

it

is

is

told in

it

connected with

one named the

The whole story

con

of the

"

Tarikh-i-

building of

in such detail that there

a separate account of every stone

and every

is

place.

THE CLOCK DOME. This part of the ber of clocks.

copper

Haram

The dome

contains a large is

num

surmounted by a

spire.

THE PILLAR OF EIGHT METALS. This pillar stands in a corner of the sacred precincts near the path of circuit

spot where Shaik

dad,

when

and

marks a

Abd-ul-Kadir Jilani of Bagh

staying in Mecca,

is

said to

have stood

for a long time in prayer.

The houses sacred

precincts

copper

steeples.

of the

are

Kazi and the Pasha of the each

Around the

are 152 cupolas of brass

the Jinn

s

decorated with two sacred

precincts

and other metals and on

minaret are seven brass spires

THE STORY OF A

112

MATAF (THE PATH OF This

Kaaba

the place where the circuit of

the

made, according to the following

rule*

is

is

The pilgrim

Book

from the Black

starts

the

description of

I,

CIRCUIT).

stone

Kaaba) which is covered with gold and stands in a corner of the Kaaba.

(See

construction of the

During the

fixed

circuit it

is

obligatory to recite continuously verses from the

Kuran and the completing the

circuit,

kisses

House

name

(In the

God

of

"

of God,

are

made.

Tawaf (circumambulation).

God

is

Great),

and

of the

circuits

These

are called a

One Tawaf

of seven shuts, each shut being

chakar or

Bismillah, Allahu

Seven similar

the stone.

after

the pilgrim arrives in front

of the Black stone, he calls out Akbar"

When,

prescribed prayers.

consists

equivalent

to a

circuit.

In the

first

three circuits the

men walk

stiff

and upright with the chest well thrown out, in the last four they walk as usual. Females walk in the seven circuits at their customary pace.

The Tawaf

is

of various

kinds,

each kind

having a separate name. I. is

The Tawaf performed after entering Mecca

the Tawaf-i-Sunnat (practised by, or customary

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

with the prophet).

Tawaf~ul-Kadum9

This Taivaf

the

113 also called the

is

Tawaf -ul-Wurud,

or

the

Tawaf-ul- Warid. II. is

age

The Tawaf performed after the pilgrimfarz (obligatory and one of the essentials

of the Hajj).

Without

is

This Tawaf

impossible.

performance the Hajj

its

is

made when

the

pil

grim returns from Arafat after having gone through the ceremonies of the Hajj.

It

uz-Ziamt, the Tawaf-ud-Din,

the

the

Tawaf -ul-Hajj,

called

is

Tawal-

Tawaf -i-Ifaza,

the Tawaf -ul-Farz, or the

Tawaf -i- Yaum-un-Nahr.

The

III.

farewell

time of leaving Mecca.

Tawaf This

is

is

performed at the

called the

Tawaf -us-

Sadr, the Tawaf-ul- Widaa, or the Tawaf -uz-Rujua.

The rule is that the pilgrim the

water

House

of

of

Zamzam,

after this

kisses the portal of the

God, and walks backward up to the

path of circumambulation, keeping throughout on the House of God. his

departure.

*

The

Tawaf drinks

This

Tawaf

is

his gaze fixed

He

then takes

wajib (a duty*).

between farz (obligatory or essentially neces of the former duty) is that, whereas no infraction

difference

sary)

and wajib

can

be expiated by atonement,

(a

the latter

may

be expiated

sacrifices, &c.

PH

8

by

THE STORY OF A

114

The

IV. of

Umra)

is

Tawaf-i-Umm (circumambulation

essential, that

who performs

a pilgrim

is, it is

obligatory

Umra

the

make

to

upon this

Tawaf.

The Tawaf-un-Nazr

V. of vows)

made

(circumambulation

performed by persons who, having

is

a vow, have had their wish granted.

VI.

Should none of the circumambulations

above enumerated be due, the Tawaf-ut-Taliayya may be performed.

The Tawaf-un-Nafi (circumambulation

VII. of

supererogation)

above described, sion

is

in

from the

differs

six

that no particular time or occa

prescribed for

it.

A

person

at

is

whenever he wishes to do

to perform

it

when once

it is

undertaken,

binding, although

Tawafs

its

its

omission

liberty so,

but,

completion becomes

can be expiated.

Those performing this Tawaf may make one, two, or four circuits after each prayer according to their strength and

may

thus accomplish

it.

There

nothing wrong in chewing cinnamon, betel or guika* while *

Gutka

is

making

this

is

leaf,

circumambulation.

an alimentary preparation which

is

a speciality of

composed of nutmeg, mace, pistachios, catechu, cloves, cinnamon, betel nut, and sundry other spices, and is chewed as a

Bhopal.

It is

substitute for betel.

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Men a

rule

five

pray

women

women

as well as

advanced years as

times in the Kaaba.

generally join in the

and night prayers. of

of

par da

;

115

This

otherwise

is

Women

Young

morning, evening,

done only

for the

sake

have, like men, general

permission to attend the five-fold service of prayer.

The infirm and the at the

Kaaba,

or

their

at

there

is

may pray

own

of

dawn

in a neighbouring

houses.

Kaaba

placing the

Kaaba prayer tomary

unable to be present

Even

mosque

young men

for

no ordinance positively requiring them

to attend the

By

sick, if

is

at

all

the five daily services.

brow against the portal

rendered efficacious.

of the

It is cus

for a visitor to the holy shrine at the

to touch the Rukn-i-

Yamani

in the south-east corner of the

(a

time

stone fixed

Kaaba) with

his or

her hand and then to kiss the hand.

HATIM.

Hatim

is

the

side of the oval

The space ter.

name

of the space

on the inner

pavement surrounding the Kaaba.

by a quadrangle of alabas Pilgrims pray two supererogatory Rakaats is

enclosed

here after performing the ceremony of circumambulation and put on the ihram.

THE STORY OF A

116

MlZAB-I-KAHMAT. (The Drain of Mercy.)

At the top of the Kaaba there is a golden gut The main water collected on the roof of the

ter.

House Hatim. it

God

of

falls

through this gutter upon the

Pilgrims bathe in

it,

drink

it,

and keep

memento.

as a sacred

THE ANCIENT DOORWAY OF THE KAABA. At

doorway, which

this

pray two

supererogatory

through the

rite of

is

closed, the pilgrims

Rakaats

after

going

circumambulation.

GABRIEL

S

DOOR.

This door marks the spot at which the Arch

angel Gabriel taught prayer.

the

prophet the rules

Tradition differs as to the exact locality

where the prophet received

was

at

cistern

of

one

two

of

which

in

space close to

surrounding

it

the

one

It

this instruction.

places,

man

either

can

an oblong pray,

or

a

forming part of the pavement

Kaaba and known

as the

path

of circumambulation.

Across the oval pavement surrounding the

Kaaba

is

a spot where the prophet was in the

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

117

Once while he was bowing uncle Abu-Jahl placed the entrails of a

habit of praying.

down,

his

camel upon

People pray two superero

his back.

gatory RaJcaats on this spot.

THE HOLY HOUSE OF GOD. The term

dakhili denotes

entering the Kaaba.

lowing manner their

own

and the

performed in the

fol

After bathing and washing in

:

houses people go to the sacred precincts

where in the

Zamzam

It is

the ceremony of

cells of

the

Zamzamis

(dispensers of

water), vessels are provided for complete

partial

ablutions

men have washed

changed their

clothes,

(gliusl

and

wazu).

After

Zamzam and women have done

themselves in

and the

the same in apartments provided for the purpose,

they come out, enter the Kaaba and, facing the

two supererogatory Rakaats. After any specific boon they again recite

entrance, pray

praying for

two Rakaats turning the holy shrine. the

Kuran

are

Suitable

hymns and

verses from

by the devotees all the inside the Kaaba. They touch

recited

time that they are their eyes

to each of the four corners of

with the covering of the Kaaba and

present the Shaibi Shaib (keeper of the key of

118

THE STORY OF A

the Kaaba), with offerings in proportion to their

means. DaJchili takes place at varying periods.

are no limitations

to

its

occurring before or

The dates on which the Kaaba

after the Hajj. is

as

There

entered are, however, fixed, and

stood from the following

may

be under

list:

WASHING THE KAABA. The Kaaba

is

\vashed three times a year, thus

:

The Kaaba proper on the 21st of Rabi-ul-Awwal The Kaaba, its courtand the 20th of Zikaad ;

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

119

and the Sacred Precincts on the 10th of

yard,

Maharram.

The ceremony

washing the Kaaba

of

formed in the following manner

The

:

is

per

Sharif of

Mecca and the Turkish Pasha representing the Sultan in the holy city wrap a shawl round their nether limbs Sahib, of

who

and,

the keeper of

is

by the Shaibi the key of the House

accompanied

God, and a number of eunuchs enter the Kaaba.

The

first

with their

the roof, the

floor,

own hands wash the

and the

pillars of the

walls,

building

twice with water, and the third time with rosewater. of the

After this washing,

Kaaba

the walls and floor

fumes, and incense

is

burnt.

The water with

which the Kaaba has been washed

is

visitors to the holy shrine,

poured into

taken home as a sacred

gift for

and

friends.

and per

are anointed with sandal

flasks,

relations

their

The small brooms which

by and

prized

are used in

cleaning the inner door, walls, roof, and floor are also carried

away

as blessed relics.

take place in this way. courtyard and also rinsed

all

At the

Two

washings

third washing, the

the outer halls of the

and scoured, a detachment

Kaaba of

troops being employed for this purpose.

are

Turkish

No one

THE STORY OF A

120

away the water with which the

takes

Mataf

(the stone

of

pavement

surrounding the Kaaba)

is

wall of the

circumambulation

washed.

The washing of the Kaaba is not a religious As hundreds of thousands of persons ordinance. visit

to

the interior of the building,

wash

expedient

as a matter of cleanliness.

it

Once a year the ceremony of the

Kaaba

ner

On

:

it is

of the investiture

performed in the following

is

Zikaada the covering

the 25th

man

of

the

Kaaba, which has been hanging down to the floor, raised to the height of a

man and

is

white long-cloth

wrapped round the part thus exposed. done to prevent the covering from being

is

This

is

soiled or

by the constant touching of the enormous number of pilgrims. It is not a religious duty,

torn

but

is

merely

a

means

of

protecting

the

covering.

The covering of the Kaaba which is changed once a year comes annually from Constantinople

on a camel

in a

Caravan.

The caravan goes

makmil

in

charge of the Syrian first

Arafat and,

to

after performing the ritual of the Hajj, repairs to

the Kaaba,

when

Syrian courtyard.

the

makmil

is

The old covering

placed in the is

then taken

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. off

and the new one put on. embroidered

the

entrance

band

in

Kaaba

the

of

"

curtain

which

Of the old covering, against the

hanging

and

names

the

121

the

"

Turkish

the

of

Waist

woven become the property of the Mecca. The residue is equally dis

Sovereigns are Sharif

of

tributed between the

and the servants

Shaibi Sahib, the eunuchs,

Kaaba.

of the

Underneath the outer covering there

another inner covering.

is

on the accession

only

of

a

of the

This

new

is

Kaaba

changed

Sultan.

The

establishment of the Sacred Precincts consists of

about 260 men.

The Sacred Precincts have 24 doorways, 12 domes, and 172

steeples.

The Turkish budget

includes a provision of Es. 30,00,000 a year for

the annual expenses

pay

of

the Kaaba, besides

the

of the establishment.

THE TOMB OF MAHDI ABU YAMANI. This

monument which

pilgrims stands on the

way

is

largely visited

by

to Mina.

MASJID-UL-ASHR. This mosque

Mina.

is

also situated

on the way to

The Ansar (Helpers) did homage to the

122

THE STORY OF A

prophet in

and

it,

was here that the passage

it

the Kuran relating to the

"

of

handgrasp of fealty

*

was revealed. MASJID-I-HANIF. This

spot

is

a magnificent mosque erected on

where the prophet once pitched

Obligatory

prayers

are

performed

his

a-

tent.

here

by

pilgrims.

ISHMAEL This

is

S

ALTAR.

situated in Mina.

MASJID-UL-AKIM. This mosque

is

also in

Mina

close to the Altar

of Ishmael.

MINA, This

is

a very extensive and awe-inspiring

plain surrounded

by a chain

breeding place of

many venomous

the

small

scorpions

are like

of hills

and

is

reptiles.

large

crabs

the

Even and

The inhabitants say that the sting these scorpions is fatal to a man, and the

nearly as big. of

ignorant believe that the Jinns live in the

hills*

123

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

JAMRAT. There

a place in Mina where three pillars

is

have been built close to one another.

known

Jamrat

as the

and the third the

spot and cast

Jamrah.

last

is

Jam

Pilgrims

up pebbles from a particular

are required to pick flat

Of these one

(devils).

Jamrah, another the middle

called the first

rah,

These are

seven

every day for three days.

pebbles at

each devil

This rite

one of the

is

duties of the Hajj.

THE CAVE AT MINA, In the the

mouth

hills

Mina there

of

which

of

is

prophet used to pray. of the

Kuran

mosque has been

a

roomy cave

at

a structure in which the

was here that the Chapter

It

entitled

is

Mursilat was revealed.

built in connection with

A

it.

There are two more mosques connected with the place.

In one of these the Chapter entitled

Kautliar was revealed.

Masjid-ul-Kaish,

prophet offered a

is

The

built

other,

known

as the

on the spot where the

sacrifice.

ARAFAT. Arafat

which

lies

is

a very high mountain at the foot of

an unbroken and extensive plain where

THE STORY OF A

124 the Hajj

number of

is

performed.

of hills big

there

it

the Jibl

and

and

little,

moderate-sized

Rahmat

(Hill of Mercy).

is

in the

hill,

From

and

is

in

as

the top Pilgrims

but they camp in the open plain of

Arafat which surrounds in this plain

centre

known

hill

preacher reads the Klmiba.

climb the

The

the plain are a

a

of it the

Devil,

Round

known

it

on

place

as Irna or the Valley of the

pilgrims are

it

One

all sides.

rest of the plain of

forbidden to

Arafat

is

free

stay.

them.

to

For persons who remain in Arafat from daybreak till

sundown

it is

to answer the his

calls of

sit

(Wazu),

down

After attending to

nature.

wants the pilgrim performs

bodily

ablution

lawful to go out and to

and engages

in

partial

prayers

and

devotion. It

obligatory for every

is

man and woman

to

put on the ihram and appear in Arafat on the 9th

Even the customary excuse of women does not exempt them from wearing the ihram and

Zil-Hijj.

attending at Arafat, for the ritual of

requisites nullifies

Hajj

and

its

one of the

non-fulfilment

the pilgrimage.

There of which

the

is

is

is

a natural spring at Arafat, the water

poured into

an

artificial

reservoir at

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. the Jibl

Kahmat

125

to supply water to the pilgrims.

Tradition says that the aqueduct which joins the

and the

spring

Turkish

in

side

them is

performed in

is

are

called

on

situated

the Maukaf and on the 9th of

of

combined ZuJiar and AST

a

Zil-Hijj

of

the other

;

There

Zaafran.

One

Arafat.

Masjid-i-Namira

the right

was constructed by a

named

Princess

two mosques the

reservoir

service

is

it.

MUZDALIFA. This called

a plain in which stands a mosque

is

On

Mashaar-ul-Haram.

the

way back from

Arafat, pilgrims perform the IsJia or night service

and pass the night called the

Judgment)

A

here.

portion of this plain,

Wadi-ul-Mahshar (Valley

of the

Day

of

forbidden ground, with this excep

is

tion pilgrims can stay wherever they choose.

In Muzdalifa there

Mount Farah. is

close to this

Imam

stops

The hill.

here.

ing service pilgrims

a small

is

hill

adjoining

Masjid-i-Mashaar-ul-Haram

On

way from Mecca the performing the morn

his

After

proceed to Mina having

first

picked up from the plain of Muzdalifa pebbles

with which to

pelt

the devils.

On

the

10th

of

THE STORY OF A

126

the pilgrims arrive at Mina and cast at the

ijj

devils

They then put

seven of these stones.

the ihram and after going through the sacrifice

rites of

off

the

and the tonsure they return to the Kaaba.

Here they perform the Tawaf-uz-Ziarat

(circuit

of pilgrimage) and, after running between the Safa

and Marxva, go back to Mina. of the llth,

and stay

On

the morning

they again cast stones at the devils

On

at Mina.

the morning of the 12th

the ceremony of casting stones at the devils

repeated a third

time, after

is

which the pilgrims

return to the Kaaba.

THE RITUAL OF THE HAJJ. Although the various

rites

comprising

the

pilgrimage have already been described in con nection \vith the accounts given of the different places, still a

order

book. 1.

may

complete

list

of their

be convenient for

I accordingly

Ihram

number and

the readers of

enumerate them thus

or putting

my

:

on the sacred robe from

the Mikat or fixed limit. 2.

Going

to

Mecca and performing

the

Ta\vaf-ul-Kudum. 3.

Running between Mounts Saf a and Marwa.

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

127

4.

Going to Mina on the 8th

5.

Passing the day of the 9th of Zil-Hijj at

of Zil-Hijj.

Arafat.

Leaving Arafat in the evening

6.

Muz-

for

and passing the night there. 7. Returning to Mina on the 10th

dalifa

and casting stones at the

Hijj

of Zil-

devils.

8.

Offering sacrifice.

9.

Tonsure of the head or cropping of the

hair.

Proceeding to the

10.

ing the 11.

Tawaf-uz-Ziarat.

called

circuit

Kaaba and perform

Returning to Mina, staying there two or

three days, and casting stones at the devils.

Of the above necessary),

rites

some wajib

sunnat (the practice of

be

departed

from

agree that Nos. sary.

Hajj.

1,

5

some

are rukn (essentially

(requisite),

the prophet which

without

and 10 are

If these rites are

and the

actual

rest

may All

sin).

essentially

neces

not performed there

is

no

Running between Mounts Safa and Marwa,

the tonsure of the head or cropping of the hair, casting stones at the devils, passing the night at

Muzdalifa for prayer and sojourning at Mina during the

prescribed

days

of

Tashrik

are

wajiba

128

THE STORY OF A PILGRIMAGE TO

(things requisite)

due

order.

The

HIJAZ.

and should be performed in their rest of the rites are either

or Jcaffara (atonable),

and are

Islamic works on ritual.

fully

sunnat

described in

BOOK

II.

VOYAGE TO THE CHAPTER

HIJAZ.

I.

PREPARATION FOR JOURNEY AND PRELIMINARY ARRANGEMENTS.

THE

question

who should

ministration of the State until

carry on the ad

my

return was of

importance in regard to the arrangements for journey.

The administration

come up

questions which

my

of the State, the

for decision, the care

and precision which have constantly to be kept in view in the settlement of affairs are matters

which those alone understand upon whom the burden falls. Some one has truly said :

"

Not every one can bear a Kingdom

"Uneasy lies

the head that rules a

s

weight

State."

not without hesitation trust any one to sympathize with my people as I do, and to I could

manifest the interest in the business of the State that

I feel.

that those could of

much thought it seemed to me best fulfil the task, who by reason

After

hereditary connection with the State had a PH 9

THE STORY OF A

130

and who would regard

special interest in it

prosperity or adversity as their own. ingly bestowed

who

confidence on

my

are well educated

State

is

Nasrullah

conduct

Khan Sahib Bahadur,

in

the

defining

his

exercise.

A

Khan

my journey Nawab Muhammad

brother,

administration

Under orders from me a

for the

Ubaidullah in

left his elder

two sons

second son,

me

Sahib Bahadur, to accompany

and

my

my

Muhammad

Sahibzada Hafiz

I accord

and whose regard

I selected

hereditary.

its

Bhopal to

my

in

set of rules

absence.

was framed

powers and guiding him in their

copy

these rules

of

is

given below.

COPY OF RULES.

WHEREAS blessed land

of

we

are about to proceed to the

with the object of

the Hijaz

visiting the sacred shrines at

Mecca and Medina

(May God Most High increase them in honour and glory !), and, God willing, shall leave Bhopal in the beginning of the

month

corresponding with the Hijra,

and whereas

it is

of

month

November of

ness during our

we hereby ordain

Shaaban 1321

expedient that

rules regulating the transaction

of

absence should be as follows

:

1903,

certain

State busi laid*

down,

NAVVAB NASRULLA

KHAN BAHADUR.

131

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

These rules shall remain in force from

I.

the date of our departure to that of our return.

Nawab Muhammad

II.

Ubaidullah

Khan

Khan

Muhammad

Sahibzada Hafiz

Bahadur,

Sahib

Nasrullah

Sahib Bahadur (should he not

Khan Bahadur Munshi Muham mad Mumtaz Ali Khan Sahib Bahadur, Muin-

accompany

ul-Muham

us),

of the State,

and the Nasir-ul-Muham

of the State, shall, in conformity with the provi

sions of these rules, carry out the duties respec

devolving upon them.

tively

Muhammad Hasn Khan

Similarly, Hafiz

Sahib Bahadur, Nusrat

Jang, Mir Bakhshi of the State Forces, and Seth

Hem as

Raj, Superintendent of the State Treasury, as

well

(Home)

the

official

office shall

in charge of

our Insha

perform their respective func

tions in accordance with these rules

Nawab Muhammad

III.

Nasrullah

Khan

Sahib Bahadur will be guided by the instruc tions

embodied in the following sections :-

The

(1).

system hitherto

in

papers being submitted to the Insha

vogue,

of

office for

our

approval, information, or sanction shall continue as usual

;

and the departmental intermediary

THE STORY OF A

132

and confirmatory orders endorsed thereon be

of

Nawab

Nasrullah Khan, in so far

as such

under

issued

Muhammad

will

the

signature

orders are in accordance with the laws and proce

dure in force in the State.

Orders issued

(2).

under

our

signature

regarding the appointment, dismissal, suspension, transfer, promotion,

grant of leave

to,

and degradation

State officials

of,

and the

will, in

cases of

Nawab

urgency, be issued under the signature of

Muhammad will,

Nasrullah Khan.

however,

be

Every such order

provisional

till

our

return,

and, unless confirmed by our sanction, shall not

be deemed to be permanent. the Hijaz a statement of

submitted to us by the

pay

office.

by

us

all

On

our return from

such orders shall be

officer in

charge of our

Suitable orders will then be issued

due consideration.

after

No

annuity,

and no

pension, or allowance should be created,

new

increase

in

emoluments

shall

be

made

during our absence. (3).

Appeals lodged in the Insha

in accordance

office shall,

with the existing procedure,

forwarded for disposal under orders from

Muhammad

Nasrullah

Khan Bahadur,

be

Nawab to the

133

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Nasir-ul-Muham

if

they are preferred against the

Muin-ul-Muham

s

decree or finding, or vice versa.

the time that

have been passed on these appeals by the departmental heads con

By

we

cerned,

and they

shall will

orders

have returned from our voyage, then be laid before us for final

As

confirmation.

should be kept informed of a letter one

takes

fresh

regards

month

appeals,

them by

to reach

we It

post.

Mecca from

India. (4).

Of

the revenue,

civil,

criminal

for appeal or revision, or cases in

cases

capital sentence has been passed

submitted to us through final

and

confirmation

office

are for

whether such cases belong

mentioned

to the class

and which

Insha

the

which

in the

above

section or

have been instituted and have passed through the preliminary stages previous to our departure

should any case be of such a nature that to leave it

pending

the

till

litigants

our return would be injurious to or

otherwise

inexpedient,

or

should the case be one in which capital punish

ment has finally

to be awarded,

dealt

Nasrullah

with by the

Khan

the

matter

may

be

Nawab Muhammad

Sahib Bahadur

in consultation

134

THE STORY OF A

with the following colleagues in accordance with the provisions below

In

(a)

Muham

revenue

and

Hashan Khan ul-Muham,

cases the

Nasir-ul-

Muhammad

Munshi

Israr

Sahib, Assistant to the Nasir-

will

In

(b)

:

be consulted.

civil

and criminal cases Khan

Bahadur Munshi Muhammad Mumtaz

Khan

Sahib,

Revenue (c)

Muin-ul-Muham, and Munshi

Muhammad

Sayyid

Assistant,

Kudrat will

Ali

Sahib,

be consulted.

In cases involving capital punish

ment the following Committee consultative

Munshi

Ali

powers

:

will

Khan

Muhammad Mumtaz

Ali

have

Bahadur Khan, the

Muin-ul-Muham, the Nasir-ul-Muham, Hafiz

Muhammad Hasn Khan Mir Bakhshi of the

Sahib

Bahadur,

State Forces,

Maulvi

Muhammad Abd-ul-Hakk Sahib, the Kazi, and Maulvi Muhammad Yahya Sahib, the Mufti of the State. Explanation.

All

exception of sentences will

such decisions, with the of capital

punishment,

be open to appeal to us within three months

after our return.

In cases in which the Committee

135

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. referred to in clause

(c)

unanimous

are

in

award

award, prior to

ing a capital sentence, the

its

enforcement, should be communicated to us by

A

telegram.

message takes three

telegraphic

days to reach Mecca from India, and our decision will be telegraphed back within a week or ten

The sentence ordering the be beheaded shall be announced,

days at the utmost. accused to

and the date on which

it is

to be executed

shall

be fixed after our approval has been obtained. (5).

matters necessary

With the

to

important

Nasir-ul-Muham

instructions

Muhammad (6).

regard

Should

it

be necessary to send out a

Nawab Muhammad will

arrest,

or

other similar

suppression of robbers, dakaits or

Sahib Bahadur

Nawab

Sahib Bahadur.

military detachment for the pursuit,

depredators,

the

issue

will

after consulting

Khan

Nasrullah

police

Nasrullah

Khan

pass orders in conjunction

and consultation with Nusrat Jang Bahadur, the Military Mir Bakhshi, the Muin-ul-Muham Baha dur,

and the Nasir-ul-Muham Bahadur. (7).

Nawab Muhammad

Sahib Bahadur

has

power to

State Treasury to the

amount

Nasrullah

Khan

draw upon the of

Rs.

2,000 a

THE STORY OF A

136

month

to

meet extraordinary charges that may

have to be incurred in connection with the public works or

for the public advantage.

In the event of

(8).

its

being found necessary

to institute an inquiry into the conduct of

State

official,

any

the Nasir-ul-Muham will apply for

permission to investigate as required by the prac tice

obtaining in the State.

Nawab Muhammad

Nasrullah

Khan

provided,

however, that no order against any

official

will

pass orders accordingly;

whose monthly pay exceeds Es. 25

shall

take effect during our absence without our express permission. official

Should such a contingency

arise,

the

concerned shall remain on security and

when

await either our return,

looked into by

us,

his case will be

or our order confirming the

award against him. IV.

All

heads of

responsible officials

departments and other

shall

immediately comply

with orders received from the

ment

relating to their respective departments as

herein set forth (1).

:

Correspondence relating to the Reve

nue Department tical

Supreme Govern

will

be received from the Poli

Agent through our Vakil by the Muin-ul-

137

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Muham, who

take

will

necessary action

the

thereon, either personally or through his subor dinates. (2).

Judicial, Police,

and Executive matters

received through

the

will

be

channel by the

proper

Nasir-ul-Muham, and that in the

referring to

Similarly, correspondence

officer will deal

with

it

manner described above.

(3).

Should compliance

with an order in

volve difficulty or entail any loss or inconvenience to the State, the matter should be to us as well as to the

telegraph in

mad

zada Hafiz

Supreme Government by

consultation with

Nasrullah

Khan

communicated

Nawab Muham

Sahib Bahadur and Sahib-

Muhammad

Ubaidullah

Bahadur before any action

is

Khan

taken.

Sahib

The ques

tion can then be dealt with in accordance with

the decision thus arrived at, which will be tele

graphed back within one week or ten days time.

With the exception sentences, which frequently V.

action,

of cases of capital call for

and with the exception

tioned in section

(4),

heading

immediate

of cases

men

III, all other reve

nue and judicial cases should be worked out and filed

in

the

Insha

office

pending our return.

138

THE STORY OF A

The disposal

such as the

Financial papers

of

Schedule of receipts and disbursements connected with the Huzur Office, and orders for payments exceeding the budget allotment, which require our should also await our return.

initials,

concerned

shall,

The

officials

however, continue to exercise

supervision and control over such documents as

Moreover, no new weighty measure which

usual.

may have important unless

urgency or expediency.

VI. to the

The

Muin-ul-Muham,

the

Assistant

Muin-ul-Muham, the District Nazims, the

Tahsildars of Pargarias and of

adopted,

rendered necessary by considerations

it is

of great

results shall be

Customs

the Superintendent

shall continue to

exercise their res

pective functions in regard to the collection of

land revenue and arrears and other similar mat subject to the following instructions

ters,

(1).

No fresh

:

Jagir or Muafi shall be created

during our absence.

In case of the death of any

existing Jagirdar or Muafidar the

files will

be put

up, and these, together with those that are

under preparation, and

arrangement ation

in

those relating

of title-deeds,

the

Huzur

now under

Office,

shall,

to

now the

consider after

the

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

139

completion of necessary formalities, be kept in the InsJia office final orders

leases while

our return,

when we

will pass

thereon.

There

(2).

till

will

be no occasion to distribute

we are away from Bhopal,

as the quin

quennial settlement has already been carried out by us. Should it be found necessary to make a

new agreement owing or default of a final orders

journey

is

to the death or absconding

tenant, the case

should await

on our return, as the season

of our

not that in which tenants enter on

and the Tahsildars of Parganas will con

holdings,

tinue to exercise the necessary control as usual.

We

(3).

have made

full

arrangements

for

the working of the Forest Department in con

nection

with

which the

Muin-ul-Muham has

obtained our sanction to certain measures. there will probably be no necessity for

executive measure

till

our return.

So

any new

Should any

fresh measure of importance for which the exist

ing arrangements do not provide be

still

requir

must be postponed till we come back. The miscellaneous contracts for the cur (4).

ed, it

rent and the following years have been sanction

ed by

us.

The renewal

of these contracts falls

140

THE STORY OF A

due at a period which coincides with the date

when we

our return,

usual

ourselves see to their

will

Other contracts

renewal.

by subordinate

of

will

be given out as

officers in exercise of their

powers in this respect. VII.

Police arrangements, such as enlistments

in the force, the establishment of police stations

and

posts, etc.,

have

been made by

also

Superintendent of Police

will

The

us.

continue as usual

to perform the duties entrusted to him, the Nasir-

ul-Muham

and

exercising the usual control

issu

ing the necessary orders and instructions from

time to time.

ul-Muham

with

will act in consultation

Muhammad Reports

In more important cases the Nasir-

Nasrullah

Khan

Nawab

Sahib Bahadur.

received by the Nasir-ul-Muham from

the Superintendent of Police will

be dealt with

as usual.

VIII.

Hafiz

Muhammad Hasn Khan

Bahadur Nusrat Jang, Mir Bakhshi

Sahib

of the State

Forces, will continue as usual to exercise super vision

the

and control over the Ihtishamiya

Imperial

Service

Troops,

the

Infantry and Cavalry, the

Red

Intizamiya

Whenever

regiments.

Cavalry,

Ihtiramiya

Jackets,

and the

there

is

141

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

occasion to send out a military detachment for

the purpose of pursuing, arresting, or suppressing robbers, dakaits, or other offenders, the Mir Bakhshi will take the necessary action in consultation

and with the approval

with,

mad

Khan

Nasrullah

Hafiz

Muhammad

dur,

the

of,

Nawab Muham

Sahib Bahadur, Sahibzada

Khan

Ubaidullah

Muin-ul-Muham,

Sahib Baha

and the Nasir-ul-

Muham. IX. will

sury

The Superintendent

make the

of the State

Trea

usual disbursements for the

ordinary expenditure of the State provided in the

annual budget estimate.

To meet incidental and

extraordinary expenses for the public benefit or State

requirements, the

State Treasury will

on the order

Khan

of

Superintendent of the

pay up

to Rs. 2,000 a

Nawab Muhammad

month

Nasrullah

Sahib Bahadur and Rs. 500 a month each

on the order

of

the

Muin-ul-Muham and the

Nasir-ul-Muham. X.

All correspondence to our address

the various heads of departments, State

and the Insha tioned

office,

office for

forwarded to the

from

officials,

last

men

transmission to us, shall be closed

THE STORY OF A

142

bag under the personal supervision

in a sealed

Ahmud Hasan Khan,

Munshi State,

who

will

of

Mir Munshi of the

forward the bag once a week to

the State Vakil.

The latter officer

will

hand over

the bag to the Political Agent for transmission to us, in

time to catch the next mail steamer.

Should he be unable to accompany us

XI.

owing to any unforeseen circumstances and thus remain behind in Bhopal, Sahibzada Hafiz Mu

hammad

Ubaidulla

as a colleague to

Khan all

Khan

Nawab Muhammad

Sahib Bahadur

who

Nasrullah

shall cqj^ult

and

Civil cases

important matters.

randa

Sahib Bahadur will act

in

memo

of appeal against orders or findings of the

Nasir-ul-Muham submitted to the Insha

office will

be dealt with by the Sahibzada instead of

Muhammad laid

him

down

Nasrullah

Nawab

Khan Sahib Bahadur,

in sections 3

and 4

of

heading

as

III.

Moreover, orders relating to the Civil branch of the Judicial Department,

from our personal with

office, as also

the reinstatement,

reduction, promotion,

grant

of

leave to,

Department,

will

which

now emanate

orders connected

dismissal,

suspension,

and transfer

employes

of

of,

the

and the Military

be passed and signed by him.

SAHIBZADA

HAMZ MOIUMED UBAIDULLA KHAN BAHADUR.

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

143

Such, orders will be subject to the directions laid

down

in section 2, heading III, of these rules.

XII.

the State

All

Magistrates,

continue

officials,

Civil Judges,

and Revenue and Police

officers will

the

respectively

exercise

to

powers

enjoyed by them in accordance with the laws in force in the State, or as

by these

rules after

now

amended and modified

we take our departure.

In

doing justice to litigants administering the various

departments of the State and performing their

and subsidiary duties the said officials shall display the utmost zeal, activity, honesty, and

initial

fidelity.

XIII. of Political

ment

Communications relating to the visits Officers and other exalted Govern

officials

and European guests

will

continue

as usual to be received in the Insha office

Nawab

dealt

with by

Khan

Sahib Bahadur,

Muhammad

who

will issue

and

Nasrullah the

neces

sary instructions to the Superintendent of the State Guest-houses and the Officer in charge of

the

State

Stables

regarding

accommodation,

entertainment, conveyance, and supply of trans port, etc.

144

THE STORY OF A

XIV.

No

Indian guest will be entertained by the State during our absence with the exception

whose favour any communication may be received from the Political Agent or the of persons in

Supreme Government. Dated this first day

of

Jamadi-ul-Awwal,

1321 Hijra, corresponding to the 26th July 1903

A.D. This was the

first

occasion in this State on

which administrative powers had been given to the sons of a Chief during the Chief

s lifetime.

When in the year 1280 Hijra Her Highness the late Nawab Sikandar Begam, now in Heaven, went on pilgrimage, the only power which she conferred upon my mother, who has found Mercy, was to

initial

such orders as directed in a paper

to be brought on to a

On

file

or to be recorded.

the 22nd Zikaad 1319 A. H., correspond

ing to the 3rd of March 1902, I communicated

my

wishes to His Excellency the

Viceroy and

Governor- General of India in a Kharita, of which the following *

is

a translation *

*

:

#

from Her Highness Nawab Sultan Jehan Ruler the of Bhopal, addressed to His Begain, Excellency the Viceroy and Governor-General of India, dated the Kharita

145

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. 22nd

1319

Zikaad,

the

to

Hijra, corresponding

3rd

of

March, 1902 A.D.

(After compliments.) It

is

well

known to Your Excellency that

incumbent on every well-to-do visit

it is

Muhammadan

to

the holy city of Mecca and perform his

religious rites.

Such has been

some time

but

past,

many

my

intention for

things have hitherto

stood in the way.

The recent sudden death

Nawab

ed husband,

of

my

most lament

Ihtishamul-Mulk

Sultan

Dulha Sahib Bahadur, has caused me extreme

Some

and anxiety.

grief

have told upon stances

it

my

has struck

would prove

health.

me

beneficial,

form that which

is

In these circum

that a journey to Mecca

inasmuch as

I shall per

religiously binding

and at the same time

by the

bereavements

similar

shall

improve

upon me,

my

health

sea trip.

For the above reasons

I earnestly

request

that the Government of India will be pleased to

grant

me

leave for seven or eight

next October. myself

to

the

On my

PH

safe return I shall devote

administration

faithfully serving the

months from

of

my

State,

Government and attending 10

THE STORY OF A

146 to the wants of

my

subjects

whom

the Almighty

Providence and the Government have put under

my

charge.

Both

younger sons Hafiz Ubaidullah Khan and Hamidullah Khan will accompany me. It will

my

be necessary for a European

accompany me up accompanied

my

Thomas

Jedda, as Dr.

to

to

officer

lamented grandmother, Nawab

Sikandar Begam.

The State

affairs

ed by the Minister

by him with the I

that are

will

now being conduct

continue to be so carried on

assistance of other State

officials.

have not yet decided as to the arrangement

for the disposal of

my

personal work, as there

yet plenty of time to do I shall

so,

and

meanwhile

have opportunities to think over many

public and private matters.

stay and during

my

taking

Nawab

Nearer the time of suitable

personal

my

hope during

my I

as I

successor,

Nasrullah

arrangement work, as

I

my

absence to have occasion to

judge the capabilities of not

in the

is

Khan

with me.

make

departure I shall for

the

disposal of

may deem

am

best.

I

my hope

there will be no difficulty in the discharge of

State business during

my

absence.

SAHIBZADA MOHAMED HAMIDULLAH

KHAN BAHADUR.

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. I earnestly

147

pray for a favourable reply.

With

best wishes.

In reply of India

I

was informed, vide Government dated 16th July 1902, that

s letter,

would be well that after

pilgrimage

it

should go on the proposed the Coronation Durbar at I

Delhi.

After taking part in the Coronation Durbar

on the

held

1st

of

January,

I

1903,

again addressed the Government of India on the sub a

by

ject,

communication dated 17th Rabi-us-

Sani, 1321 Hijra, corresponding to the 13th July

1903,

to

Major L. Impey,

Political

in

Agent

Bhopal. Translation of a

Memorandum

dated the 17th Rabi-us-

Sani, 1321 Hijra, corresponding to the 13th July 1903, from

Her Highness Nawab Sultan Jehan Begam, the Ruler Bhopal, to Major L. Impey, Political Agent in Bhopal.

In reply to

March 1902,

randum No.

I

my Memorandum

3rd

beg to acknowledge your Memo 4448-4928, dated the 16th July

1902, to the effect that

addressed to

the

of

of

His

you received

my

letter

Excellency the Viceroy and

Governor- General, on the subject of

my

intended

you submitted it His Excellency, and that the Government

pilgrimage to Mecca,

that

to of

THE STORY OF A

148

intimated that

India have kindly given

permission

after

the Delhi Durbar was

over and that efforts would be

made to let me have

accompany me up

a Medical Officer to

am

would be

I

to Jedda.

Almighty God that now that the Imperial Coronation Durbar at Delhi has already been so successfully held early in I

grateful to

January 1903, and as the period drawing near, so

I

have

fully

of pilgrimage is

determined to start

on the pilgrimage some time in the of

November

1903,

5

1902,

fortnight

and hope to complete the

holy journey in five months time. in continuation of

first

my

letter of

I accordingly,

the

3rd March

and

beg to receive a favourable reply,

hope that you will kindly help me in the follwing matters for which I shall be thankful. I

further

1.

16th

Though July

granted to said that

in the

1902,

me

Memorandum, dated

provisional

the

permission was

to undertake the journey,

it

was

permission will be granted after the

Delhi Durbar, I do not, therefore, regard the per mission already granted as sufficient.

It is

that fresh sanction will be obtained and

municated in order that preparations journey may be commenced.

hoped

com

for

the

149

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

As already expressed

2.

a Medical

dum,

may now be selected to Yambu and Jedda, that he

Officer

accompany me up be useful to

may

to

me on

requested, just as Dr.

grandmother, I

may

your Memoran

in

Nawab

the way, as already

Thomas accompanied my Sikandar Begam, and that

be duly informed of the selection.

The

accompany me up to Yambu, and while I go to Medina from Yambu, he will stay at Yambu, and then await me there while I am at

said officer will

When

Mecca. he

will

I return to

Jedda

return to Jedda, and

will

from Mecca,

accompany me

back to India. 3.

On

the occasion of the pilgrimage of

my

was arranged that

all

deceased grandmother

it

State official covers containing important State

matters should be sent to her through the Poli

her.

Agent who undertook to forward them to The same procedure may also be adopted on

this

occasion,

tical

Political

may

so

that

all

covers

sent to the

Agent may be forwarded on to me and

reach me. 4.

made by

If

arrangements about a steamer

the Political Agent,

arrangements

will

it is

be good and

are

hoped that the

all

that can be

THE STORY OF A

150

In case there be any difficulty about his arranging for the steamer, I may be informed,

desired.

that

I

may i^ke

number

of

The

the arrangement myself.

persons

who

will

accompany me

in

steamer will not exceed 250,

my

though there may in all be about 500, as many would like to join my party and obtain my permission for it, but these

will

be supplied with tickets to go by

other steamers.

ions If

hopes that I and my compan be exempted from Indian quarantine.

I entertain

5.

will

that be not possible,

we might be permitted

to undergo quarantine at Bhopal, our luggage

being

disinfected

with steam.

allowed this privilege,

I

shall be

If

am

I

much

not

incon

venienced. 6.

of

The Sharif

Hijaz

may

of

Mecca and the Governor

be addressed regarding the

fol

lowing matters, through the Consul at Jedda, as

was done in the case Sikandar

of the deceased

Nawab

Begam and Nawab Gauhar Begam

Kudsia. (1)

Necessary arrangements

may

be

made

to provide a sufficient Turkish military escort to

guard and maintain peace and order on the road

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

151

am travelling from Kamran to Yambu and Yambu to Medina, Jedda and Mecca.

while I

from

If possible, I

(2)

and

my

followers

may

be

exempted from quarantine at Kamran, to save time, in consideration of my friendship with and fidelity to

On will

the British Government.

the above arrangements being made, I

communicate the date

my

of

departure to

you, to enable you to arrange for the usual recep tion

and salute

etc., at

of

Bombay.

guns and Guard

At present

I

am

of

Honour,

only await

ing a favourable reply to the above.

On

hearing from the Political Agent that

my

request had been granted, I began preparing for the j ourney and giving the necessary orders. of

Most

important matters connected with the

the

journey were such as could only be accomplished

through the kindly help of the British Govern ment, of which mention

will

be

made from time

My thanks and those of the Muhammadan community of India are due

to time.

British

Government

entire

to the

for the sincere, considerate,

and generous help which they gave me religious wanderings, for the

subjects of

in

my

Britain

enjoy to-day freedom, liberty, and security such

152

THE STORY OF A

as are enjoyed

nowhere

else.

The consideration

shown by the British Government to every and creed is wholly without precedent in

faith

history.

My

heartfelt gratitude

is

due to the Government

for their special attention to me.

It is

simply the

result of their kindness that I enjoyed all possible

comfort and ease in

thank the Hon

ble

my Mr.

journey.

Bayley,

I

must

also

Agent to the

Governor- General in Central India, whose sym pathetic kindness was of great to me in help

matters connected with

my journey and who

kindly and energetically moved

in the

very

matter.

Major L. Impey, Political Agent in Bhopal, who took much trouble to render my voyage as com fortable as possible,

and

is

deserving of equal gratitude,

cannot close this chapter without offering him my cordial thanks. I would be ungrateful did I

not also acknowledge the excellent measures taken by the Turkish Government for my safety. I

On

the request of the Supreme Government of

India they taining

me

made

special arrangements for enter

hospitably, especially

when

I reached

Yambu where a Turkish Guard of Honour salut ed me under orders from His Majesty the Sultan. At

all

other places in the Turkish Dominions I

PILGRIMAGE TO

found the Turkish

also

153

HI.TAZ.

Officers

most anxious to

show me every honour and hospitality. The Government of India also most kindly deputed Major R. C. Mac Watt, M.B., B.SC., of the Indian Medical Service, to accompany

me

from

Mrs.

Hijaz

and at the request

of

to

and

Mac-

Watt and after consulting my wishes, let her come with us. Major Mac Watt added beyond measure to

my comfort on the journey and

me much

happiness.

I shall

his wife

caused

always gratefully

remember them. I

British

moved

the

Sublime Porte through the

Government

to allow

me

to take an

armed

But now that my ourney by God s mercy has come to a safe and satisfactory end, their escort.

refusal I

j

is

a matter of no regret.

On

the contrary,

must thank the Turkish Government

arrangements

for the road.

for their

CHAPTER

II.

DEPARTURE. At the season when the ocean sea voyage

is

not free from anxiety.

wiser, therefore, to visit first,

and then,

stormy a

is

It

seemed

Medina, the Illustrious,

after acquiring the

honour which

comes from performing the pilgrimage to Mecca,

To carry out this have arrived at Medina in the

to return forthwith to India.

idea I ought to

month

Shawwal.

of

the blessed

month

As, however, the passing of of

Ramzan

in that holy land

instead of on the journey was a greater

means

spiritual grace, I preferred to start in

Shaaban

of

and decided to take the easy and direct route by sea to Medina, that is, to land from the ship at

Yambu Medina.

instead of Jedda and from there to go to I

was advised

for various reasons,

and a

reference to the papers relating to the pilgrimage of

my

grandmother, the

confirmed

me

Nawab Sikandar Begam,

in the view, that

would be judi cious to put myself into written communication with the high and influential dignitaries of the Hijaz.

It was,

it

moreover, essential that arrange-

155

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

ments should be made Previous to

my

Maulvi Zulfikar ullah,

accommodation,

for

etc.

departure, therefore, I deputed

Ahmad

Nakvi, Maulvi

Jnayat-

Aazam Husain, and Muhammad

Maulvi

Shukri Effendi, a servant of

my

State, to

upon Sharif Aun-ur-Rafik Pasha, Amir

of

wait

Mecca,

who was acquainted with the State from the time of the pilgrimages of Her Highness the

Nawab Sikandar Begam Sahiba, now in Heaven, and the Nawab Gauhar Begam Sahiba Kudsia who has obtained mercy and on Daulatlu Ahmad ;

Ratib Pasha, Governor of the Hijaz, visited

Bhopal

in the

who had

time of Her late Highness

and who at that time did not hold

his

present

exalted office and was hospitably entertained as

on

a guest of our State; of the

Haram

at

Usman

Medina

Pasha, Shaikh

and Sayyid Hasan

Muzaffar Pasha, Muhafiz (guardian) of Medina.

The deputation had instructions to wait upon these personages with letters and costiy presents.

A

nazarana

was

of

one

thousand rupees in cash

also to be offered to each of

that time I did not

know how

them,

far the

for at

Supreme

Government was prepared

to exert itself on

behalf

moving the Turkish

in

the

matter

of

my

THE STORY OF A

156

Government

to accord

on

befitting reception

The Sharif accept the

and suggested

my

honourable and

journey.

Mecca, however, refused to

of

gift of

me an

money, thinking

chat,

if I

wished

too

it

it,

the

little,

money

might be given as a subscription towards the The Governor followed Hijaz Eailway Fund.

example and gave a similar answer. Thus, the foresight which had led to the employment of the unusually courteous language in which his

had been couched

my

letters

its

object in view of the supposed insufficiency

failed to achieve

and produced an entirely opposite impression on the Sharif s mind, and made him take up a wholly unfriendly attitude of which of the gift,

he gave practical proofs from time to time, for certain self-seeking persons misled tery.

of

These

money

and

for their

to present

share of

it.

convince the it

men

would be

it

are said to extort large

own

who

whom

I

useless to present

the Shaikh of the

Haram

at

sums

takes his

result of this affair

persons

flat

from the pilgrims

benefit

to the Sharif

The

him by

own

was to

had sent that any nazarana

Medina

to

or to the

Muhafiz, a course which was justified by subse-

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

157

quent events, as was proved on our arrival at the place. Translation of a Kharita to the address of the Ainir of

Mecca the Holy (May God add "I

had

for

to its Glory

!

)

a long time made up

my mind

pay a visit to the holy shiines at Mecca and Medina (May God add to their Glory and Venera to

tion

ness

The present year has increased

!)

;

God

and,

willing, it

was

my

my eager

intention to

reap the spiritual reward of attending the holy portal and kissing the sacred places

and then

having the honour of performing the sacred Hajj

and circumambulating and kissing the places of glory and proceeding to visit the pre-eminently sacred and hallowed

tomb

of the Master of the

Universe, the Lord of Mankind, our Prophet, on

whom

descend the choicest peace of Heaven.

was then

my

desire to

faction of kissing

have the supreme

Your Holiness

s

It

satis

holy hands.

am, however, accompanied by a very large number of women and children. One of my

I

granddaughters who will travel with me is yet unweaned. All these are also not capable of enduring the hardships of a continuous journey for nearly

reasons

it

two weeks on camels. has

now been decided

For these that,

God

THE STORY OF A

158

the port of

^Yambu

the pilgrimage, and from

season of

the

before

for

shalll start

willing, I

there proceed on camels through the five inter

vening

to the

stages

hallowed tomb

of

the

Essential Condition of the Creation of the Uni verse,

our

holy

whom

on

Prophet,

the Divine Peace and Blessings.

that holy shrine

have

glorified

of

After visiting

God Almighty willing, kissing Your Holiness s

I shall,

honour

the

descend

of

hands and doing homage to the

Yaman and "Your

Pillar

the Place of Abraham.

Holiness

is

the

Amir

of all the Hijaz

and, over and above the brotherhood of Islam

have a special claim upon Your When my good will and friendship.

between

us, I

Holiness

s

Nawab Kudsia Begam, who has found Pardon, and the Nawab Sikandar Begam, who is a dweller in Paradise, visited the

august grandmothers the

holy

Your Holiness

shrine,

s

illustrious

elder

who preceded you in Sharif, showed them every

brother of blessed memory,

the exalted possible

office of

mark

of

kindness and honour, and in

according them splendid receptions did his utmost to provide for their comfort in

camp

or

on the march.

and I

necessities while

venture to expect

159

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

from Your Holiness a

still

greater measure of

generous hospitality embracing

my

all

ments by land and sea. The the Hijaz is under Your Holiness entire

require

dominion s

of

and

rule,

an absolute stranger in that part the country and my companions will be

as I shall be of

God

the guests of

and

his

holy

Prophet,

I

have deputed certain trustworthy and respect able

them versed and

my

of

persons

in

theology

learning, to wait

the capacity of special

you

who

State,

and

of

are

all

great piety

upon Your Holiness delegates.

of

I

in

beg that

be pleased to show them your wonted

will

kindness, and, after having listened to their per

sonal representations, to address the Shaikh of the

Haram

at Medina,

and the Muhafiz

of

Medina

with a view to an escort of 100 Turkish troops being placed at

ment by me

the

disposal at

Yambu

Your Holiness

will issue

Bedouin Chiefs and Shaikhs

way

as

on pay

of the necessary remuneration.

also trust that

to the

my

well

owners, guides,

as to the

and others

to the

orders

of Kafilas

headmen

I

on

of camel-

effect

that

during the progress of the journey due measures shall

be taken for

my

safety

and protection.

THE STORY OF A

160

These boons

me

I

crave of Your Holiness to enable

to enter in

all

safety the sacred precincts of

Medina, and after visiting the holy shrine there

Kaaba, may God add

to proceed to the glorious

greater Glory

and Lustre to both Shrines

!

Translation of a Kharita to the address of Daulatlu

Ahmad

Ratib Pasha, Governor

of the Hijaz.

This Kharita was couched in terms similar to those

employed

in the Kharita addressed to

the Sharif, the only difference being in the follow ing passage expressive of the old acquaintance

between

us.

c

Although

intended to pay a

(May God

for a long

I have,

visit to

time

past,

the two holy shrines

increase their Glory

!)

yet the

know

Your Excellency is the head of the Government of the Hijaz has sharpened my eager

ledge that

desire to undertake the

that during late

holy journey.

the time of

my

The

fact

august mother, the

Nawab Shah Jahan Begam, who

is

an inmate

Your Excellency condescended to State with your visit and that ever

of Paradise,

grace this

since that time lustre of

you have continued to shed the

your august regard upon this State,

constitutes a piece of the rarest good fortune that

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

could have befallen

meat

taking a pilgrimage to

a time

when I am under

Had any

Hijaz.

person been at the head

161

the Government of

of:

Hijaz, I could have scarcely pressed for the fulfilment of the things

my

my

do now.

I

have deputed a number

I

requests

needful for

journey with the same confidence as

Accordingly

other

of trust

worthy and respectable persons of my State whose names are given below, and who are all of them

men

of recognized ability,

respectability to wait specially accredited

learning, piety,

upon Your Excellency

and Lustre

Haram

at

as

delegates."

Translation of a Kharita to the address of

Shaikh of the

and

Usman

Medina (May God add

Pasha,

to its

Glory

!)

The idea cradled portal

of

of*

paying a

visit to

the angel-

the Light of the World, the

Master of the Universe, the Intercessor for sinners, the

Medium

of the Faith, our

descend the Blessings of God in

my mind.

God

Prophet (on

whom

!)

has long been fixed

This year I have

made up my mind,

pay homage to the heaven-domed Medina and to have the honour of kiss

willing, to

shrine at

Your Excellency s august hands during the blessed month of Eamzan prior to the perform

ing

ance

of

FH

the

sacred

Hajj.

I

will,

of

course, 11

THE STORY OF A

162

be accompanied by the necessary Kafila and the train of followers indispensable for the occasion.

Your

s

Excellency

fame as a kind dispenser

of

and generosity to the pilgrims resorting to the hallowed tomb of our holy Prophet, and as

justice

an

officer

under whose administration peace and

been secured and turbulence and

safety have

has confirmed and acceler

rapacity suppressed,

ated

my

resolve to undertake the

long contemplated. to present myself

I

first

holy journey

have accordingly decided at the

s

Prophet

holy

tomb

at Medina, where, after invoking the blessings of

God upon

the Holy Spirit of the Master of the

Universe, I propose to spend a few days under

the shadow of Your Excellency is

then

my intention to

Excellency

s

God (May

it

It is

s

proceed,

protection.

still

under Your

exalted protection, to the

House

gather greater Glory and Lustre

accepted that

a traveller

is

It

of !).

a stranger even

King/ It is also well known that every new comer is in danger/ For a stranger to travel in an unknown country without though he be

a

proper escort would be unwise and imprudent. therefore

take this opportunity of

special deputation of the persons

I

sending a

noted below

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. in

whom

1G3

have every confidence, to wait upon

I

Your Excellency.

Ahmad

Maulvi Zulfikr

Nakvi.

Maulvi Inayat-ullah.

Azam

Maulvi

Husain.

Shukri Effendi. ((

I trust

that Your Excellency will

them the honour

of a

after listening to

such representations as

may have

to

lency will be

grant

personal interview, and,

make on my to

pleased

behalf,

make

they

Your Excel

the

necessary

arrangements regarding the safe escort of myself

and

my

followers

from

Yambu

to the Blessed

outward and return journeys. I also beg the favour of an escort of 100 Turkish troops being placed at my disposal on my City on the

arrival at

Yambu.

I

hope that

this request will

be sanctioned and a detachment sent at the petition of

my

delegates after obtaining

of the necessary

expenses involved

troops are employed on "

God

willing,

Holy City when ing

escort.

shall shortly arrive at the

I shall

have the honour

of

pay

Your Excellency. I sincerely humble expression of the profound

my respects

hope that this

I

my

payment

while the

to

THE STORY OF A

164

will find

Excellency

trustworthy plain to

A

I entertain for

Your

favour in your eyes.

My

and goodwill which

respect

you

delegates have instructions to ex all

further points.

Khaiita to the same

was also address

effect

ed to the Governor of Medina (May God add to its

Glory and Lustre

Up

!).

to the time of the departure of the dele

gates above mentioned, tion to

take with

Begam (May God

s

me

it

was my fixed determina

the infant

Birjis

Blessing be on her

!

Jahan As that

).

time approached, however, the consideration that she was yet too young to bear the hardships of

such a long journey overruled

and

I

my former

decided that she should be

BhopaL

left

behind in

This separation was a severe

her parents, but they bore fortitude for ful children

my

it

resolve,

trial for

with the utmost

sake like the obedient and duti

that they are.

They

left

her with her

establishment at the Nishat Afza garden

till

my

return under the supervision and guardianship of

Munshi Israr Hasn Khan Sahib, Assistant Nasir-ul-

Miham, who performed his duty most thoroughly the and zealously, and they accompanied me Certain other journey that I had undertaken. "in

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

165

important people of the State were given money for the journey and allowed to start when they liked.

Besides these,

fifty

poor people were also

provided with the necessary funds to enable them to undertake the holy journey with ul- Kayyum,

who It

also

Munshi Abd

Superintendent of the General

acted as head

Office,

Caravan.

of the Pilgrims

was further decided that a number

of other

caravans should start after us at fixed intervals to allow of our receiving news of Bhopal through

The pilgrims accompanying me

them.

tuted a caravan of upwards of 300

women for whose guidance

consti

men and

the following rules were

framed: Extract from the Rules. "Whereas it is

expedient that brief rules

should be framed defining the various duties and services to be performed

may

us, in order

members

staff

accom

that each individual with us

be aware of his personal responsibilities, that

the performance of fied,

officers,

and the ministerial

of our suite,

panying

by the

and that the

disorder

may

hereby issued

official

risk of

duties

may

be simpli

mismanagement and

be obviated, the following rules are :

THE STORY OF A

166

Throughout the

"I.

entire

journey to the

Hijaz, the official designation of each servant of

the State will be that shown in statement No.

and such servant

will

1,

be held responsible for the

performance of the duties which pertain to that office or which are enumerated in statement No. 2. "

Notwithstanding the preceding rule

II.

every State servant shall consider himself liable to perform

him

all

which

services

may

be required of

sudden and unforeseen emergencies or

in

which he

may

be ordered to perform, or from the

omission to perform which he to believe that failure services

and

may have

reason

loss will result.

Such

must be performed by the servant

in

question whether they are part of his regular

duty or

not.

"III.

The Managing Committee, mentioned

in statement No. 2, shall see that all just require

ments

as far as possible fully

neglect to give to sary.

accompanying us are met and that there is no

of every individual

any such help

Any member

information

Committee.

or

help

of

the

shall

as

may

Kafila

ask

it

be neces requiring

from

the

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

"IV.

167

The Managing Committee,

officials,

or

other persons accompanying us shall represent to

Sahibzada

Hafiz

Muhammad

Sahib Bahadur their

from time to time. arrange such

difficulties or

The Sahibzada

matters as

in

Khan

Ubaidulla

his

requirements

will personally

opinion

may

properly be carried out without our approval or sanction.

In cases in which our orders seem to

be required, he will either take orders himself or direct the individual concerned to represent the

matter to "

V.

us.

To some

cooked food

of the party

be given from the State kitchen. get maintenance allowances their

own arrangements

must take on board

will

All others will

and will have to make

for food.

Each

follower

sufficient provisions to last

him through the voyage every member of the party shall also draw up and keep with him a com ;

plete inventory of his personal goods to

him,

when required

enable

to do so, to furnish informa

tion relative to the contents of his trunks, etc.

u VI.

Expenditure

will

take place, whenever

necessary, under our orders, or,

obtained without

difficulty,

Sahibzada Hafiz Ubaidulla

if

these cannot be

under the orders of

Khan

Sahib Bahadur.

THE STOUT OF A

168

Should this also be found impossible, such

mem

bers of the Managing Committee as are entrusted

with the

payments,

power

shall,

sanction expenditure not

to

Es. 500,

making and receiving cash in pressing emergencies, have

of

duty

for

exceeding

which our written orders

will

be

o btained in due course. "

VII.

All State officials, as well as the rest

of the persons

accompanying

us, are

required to

send on their heavy luggage properly secured and locked and marked with some device for identifi cation to such place, on such date, and in such

manner

as the transport

committee referred to in

statement No. 2 shall order, so that the luggage may be transmitted by rail to Bombay and stowed

away in the

ship before our arrival.

take with him more luggage than necessary for the rail way journey to this

No one may is

absolutely

Bombay, and

must not be more than one man can

easily

carry in his hand. "

VIII.

All the

members

of the Kafila shall

leave the city and take up their residence in the

quarantine

camp

at such date and time and in

such manner as the Managing Committee in charge of quarantine arrangements, referred to

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. in statement No.

shall

2,

169

From

direct.

the

date of entering quarantine to that of starting

Bombay, persons must not return

for

They

city.

to the

are required to observe the quaran

tine rules fully, to get into the railway carriages as

ordered by the Committee, and to observe

minutely the quarantine regulations which

may

be imposed in foreign territories. "IX.

The laws and regulations

foreign territories

must be strictly obeyed through

out the journey. tories

No

inhabitant of the said terri

must be treated

discourteous manner. gentleness, all

in force in

in

an unbecoming or

Forbearance, composure,

and humility must be displayed by

our followers in

all

should be met with,

matters. it

Even

rudeness

if

should be overlooked and

borne patiently, the holy object of the blessed journey being kept in mind. "

X.

Strict precautions should be

the troops accompanying us in

taken by

their

mutual

relations or dealings with strangers, not to say or

do anything which can possibly provoke

or

ill

-feeling.

Their conduct on the contrary

strife

mus

fc

be so regulated that no one shall have cause for

complaint against another.

THE STORY OF A

170 "

No

XT.

follower shall use a railway car

riage, boat, steamer, camel, mule,

mode

other

may have

donkey, or any

conveyance, excepting such as

of

been set apart for

his special use or

Managing Committee for convey ance may permit him to use. In places where we may halt no "XII.

such as the

person shall go beyond the limits of the camp, or leave his

duty without permission.

For the

performance of religious duties, the ritual of the pilgrimage, etc., special permission need not be

General permission will be

obtained each time.

granted for such purpose, excepting in the case of

guards and patrols, for

ments "

will

be

XIII.

made

as

whom

may

proper arrange be required.

Making even the smallest purchase

on credit anywhere during the journey

is

strictly

prohibited. "

shall

XIV.

No member

attempt to

visit

of our military escort

any foreign

official

without

orders or without leave, unless such a visit necessitated 66

XV.

or possession

is

by State requirements. Nothing of which the import, export, is

in British India

prohibited under the laws in force

and the Turkish Empire

or

under

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

171

marine regulations must be imported or exported. Persons disobeying this

rule

be severely

will

punished. "

XVI.

Any breach

of these rules, or dis

obedience, or any other offence or misconduct will

render the offender liable, besides the punish

ment for his or,

on

offence, to expulsion

his return to

service

and declared

from the Kafila,

Bhopal, to be dismissed from unfit for future

employment,

both punishments, or to any other severe

or to

punishment suitable to the time and "XVII.

No

place.

person shall keep any animal

with him during the voyage without our special permission. "XVIII.

The order

in

which each batch

pilgrims shall proceed to Hijaz

is

shown

of

in detail

in statement No. 5. "XIX.

Persons whose names are entered in

list

No. 5 shall leave Bhopal on the 18th of October

for

Dip where they

shall

undergo quarantine

till

such time as our special train reaches that place.

XX.

Accompanied by our personal suite, mentioned in list No. 6, we shall move on the 19th "

of

October into the Nishat Afza garden, where

we

shall

remain in quarantine

till

the 28th idem,

172

THE STORY OF A

on the evening

of

direct to the start

by

which day we

Railway Station,

shall

proceed

and, God

willing,

special train for

Bombay. who have

Persons

"XXI.

to

undergo

quarantine at Dip shall be guided by the

lowing rules

:

The quarantine camp at Dip

(a)

fol

under the orders

shall

be

Major Mirza Karim Beg

of

Bahadur. (b)

must enter the camp by the

All persons

evening of the 18th October, corresponding to the 26th Eajab 1321 Hijra,

The

(c)

camp

muster of the inmates

first

shall take place at 7 A.M.,

of the

on the morning

and those who are absent on

of the 19th October,

this occasion will not be permitted to

accompany

us. (d)

of the

them of

The Camp

camp

Officer shall visit the

three times a

at 7 A.M., noon,

any person who

struck (e)

off

the

is

and

day and 7

P.M.

shall

inmates

muster

The name

absent from muster shall be

list of

The Medical

persons accompanying

us.

Officer shall inspect all the

inmates of the camp daily at 4 P.M., when they shall assembly and be ready for examination.

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

173

The Compounder attached to the camp the same time, submit to the Medical report as to the

shall, at

Officer a

health of the inmates of the

camp. Persons joining the

(/)

with them take by

camp must

bring

all such personal luggage as they will

Such luggage as has not been in the

rail.

camp during

the specified period will not be per

mitted to be carried in our special train. "

XXII.

Persons

undergoing

quarantine

with us at the Haiyat Af za and the Nishat Af za

rules

be

shall

gardens

the

guided by

following

:

(a)

All inmates of the

by the afternoon

of 18th

camp

shall assemble

October 1903 at the

specified spot. (b)

The

inmates of the

camp

shall

be

assembled several times every day, and no person who is found absent at any assembly, will be per mitted to accompany (c)

in the

Very

strict

camp.

No

us.

quarantine shall be enforced

person shall be admitted to the

camp without permission from the Medical Officer except Nawab Muhammad Nasrulla Khan Sahib Bahadur,

the

Muin-ul-Muham

*

Bahadur, the

THE STORY OF A

174

Nasir-ul-Muham Bahadur, Sahib, Bakshi

Muhammad

Hasn Khan, Mir Munshi

Munshi Kudrat Hasn, Munshi

of the State,

All

Ahmad

and the

No

Medical Officers, including

Miss Maclaren.

inmate

touch persons thus

the

of

camp

shall

admitted. (d)

the

A cordon of troops shall

camp,

detachment

and the

Officer

be posted round

Commanding

shall report to the Medical

the

Officer

camp that the cordon is at its post, Major Mac watt and Miss Maclaren

visiting the (e)

shall inspect the

quarantine

camp

male and female sections

of the

respectively every day.

Statement No. 1 showing the respective duties to be performed by the various officers during the voyo,ge

to

the Hijaz.

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

175

Statement No. 1 showing the respective duties to be performed by the various officers during the to the

voyage No.

Hijaz

(contd.).

NAME.

DESIGNATION.

Satir-i -Consul (Ofticer appointed to confer and

"\

I

negotiate with Consular j ... J Agencies)..,

Mir Munshi

Master Liakat Ali and Mian Ali

Mahmud

Khan.

Munshi Mansab Ali. Munshi Abdur liauf Khan. Munshi Muhammad Shabir Husain,

...

Assistant Mir Munshi State Accountant

Munsif, Criminal Court.

10

Accountant, Privy Purse

Munshi Mansab Ali Majid Khan.

11

Magistrate

Hafiz

Sayyad

by Abdul

assisted

Ahmad,

Tahsildar

of

Diwanganj. 12

Superintendent of Treasury

and Toshakhana 13

Translator

14

Superintendent

Chunnu Khan, Supdt. English, Master Liakat Shukri Effendi.

Kar.

of

khana 15

Postal Superintendent

16

Supdt.

...

of Farashkhana (Equipment)

17

Account Clerk

18

Muazzin

of

the

State

Toshakhana. Ali

;

Turkish,

Muhammad

Akil Khan, Supdt. of the Palace Karkhana.

Hafiz Muhd. Abdur Rahman, Supdt. of the State Post Office.

Abdur Rahman Khan, Supdt.

of the

Palace Farashkhana.

Muhammad

Ismail Palace Accounts.

Muhammad

Shaikh

Kazi

Khan, Writer

<>!

Khatib

(Preacher) of the Jami Masjid, and Hafiz Nur Haidar, IIIHIIH of the Masjid-i-Sultani.

19

Purveyors for the

camel-

drivers

20

Precis Writer

Ahmad Khan, School

and Copyist

Shaikh Asst.

mad

;

Asst.

Teacher, Bilkisi

and Hidayatullah Agar.

Hamid-ud-din. Clerk lo the Mir Munshi (Jhulam Muham Khan and Jaat ar Husain. :

176

THE STORY OF A

Statement No. 2 shelving the personnel and duties of the Managing Committee to in referred Section III.

DUTIES.

No.

TO

WHOM

ENTRUSTED,

Muhammad Abdur Rahman, Hafiz Munshi Superintendent of Post offices Amir Ahmad, Master Liakat Ali, Sardar Bahadur Mirza Karim Beg, Mian Ashik

Embarkation and dis embarkation of pas

;

sengers

Hasn Khan, Munshi Abdur Rahim. Doctor Wali Muhammad, Hakim Nurul-Hasn and Maulvi Alauddin, Tahsildar, and the Medical Officer with the party.

Quarantine arrange ments at Kamran ...

Customs arrangements

Aazam Husain, Shukri

Maulvi Kari

Effendi,

Maulvi Sulaiman, Alauddin, Master Liakat Ali, the Me Tahsildar dical Officer with the party. ;

Maulvi Aazam Husain, Shukri Effendi Sayyad Abu Bakr Mutawwif ( Guide to the circumambulation of the Kaaba) j Sayyad Abdul Halim, Mutawwif Maulvi Muhammad Ahmad Munshi Sabir ;

con Arrangement veyance in Arabia ... or

;

;

1 Husain. Arrangements in con

Hafiz Almas, Darogha Sayyad Naziin Supdt. of the State Guest house Abdulla Khan, Asst. Superintendent. ;

nection wif-h the trav elling kitchen

Arrangements

for

guards, patrols, order lies, etc.

Ali,

Sardar Bahadur Mirza Karim Beg, Hafiz

(

<

(

Arrangements

for sacri

fices

<

<

(

the

Provisioning steamer ...

Sayyad Khan.

Ahmad,

Mian

Ashik

Husain

Abdul Halim Mutawwif and Muhmd. Akil Khan, Superintendent of the State

Karkhana.

Hafiz

Abdur

Rahman,

Munshi Abd,ur

Rahim, Sayyad Ahmad.

Arrangements

making and sales

;

for (

Munshi Sabir Husain, Sayyad Abdul Mutawwif, Sayyad Abu Bakr Rashidi, Abdulla Khan, Asst. Manager of

purchases J Halim j

(

Arrangements for the reception of Shaikhs

the kitchen.

Sayyad Abdul Halim Mutawwif and Kari Shaikh Muhammad.

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. List No. 5 showing the

names

177

of persons

who

undergo quarantine at Dip to which place they will go on the 18th of October 1903: will

Sardar Bahadur Officer,

Khan names

Mirza Karim Beg,

Camp Khan Bahadur Munshi Inayat Husain

Sahib, Mir-i-Kafila, with 181 persons whose are omitted for the sake of brevity.

List No.

6 of persons

who

shall

undergo

quarantine with us at the Nishat Afza and Hayat

Afza gardens

:

Women

...

...

64

Men

...

...

44

...

108

...

181

...

289

...

Total Total of List No. 5

Grand Total

Much correspondence was the Government

officials

carried on with

on the subject

antine, hire of the vessel engaged,

arrangements. helped

me

in

All these

my

of

quar

and sanitary

gentlemen very kindly

travelling arrangements as will

appear from the following copy of the corres

pondence Copy

:

of a letter from

Her Highness

Major Impey,

PH

Political

the

Agent

Begam

of

Bhopal to

in Bhopal.

12

THE STORY OF A

178

In

my

you that

24th August last

letter of

shall

I

I

wrote to

from

Bombay on

much

obliged

sail

30th

October next. be

I shall therefore

kindly arrange that the

S.

my men

with

my

interval before

I

to reach

wish some

Bombay on

October, and at convenient

or 28th

the 27th

kits

all

will

AJcbar be placed

quay on the 25th October.

at the of

S.

you

if

arrival there, to get all

my

luggage on board and stay there. Please also let

me know how many

second class cabins there are that

my followers

berths for Copy

I

first

may

and

arrange

accordingly.

of a letter dated Sehore, the 4th September 1903, from Political Agent in Bhopal, to Her High

Major Impey, ness the

I

am

Begam

of Bhopal.

writing to Captain Goodridge about the

steamer being at the wharf by the 25th October. It is certain, however, to be there as, of course,

the ship will take some cargo and this takes time to load.

I

think that

reaches

Bombay on

October

it will

if

The

your

before your Highness.

your heavy luggage

the morning of the 29th

be in time.

quiring about this.

quarantine

if

I

am, however, en

difficulty will be

men

arrive

in

about

Bombay

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

179

informed the owner of the Akbar that

I

including your Highness there will be 10

first

class,

10 second class, and 230 third class passen

gers.

If

your Highness wishes to take more than

number

can perhaps be arranged, but pos sibly the owner may demand some increase in

this

it

the payment.

If

your Highness

know how many more you wish

will

let

me

to take I will

ascertain.

Copy

dated the 5th September 1903, from Her

of a letter

Highness the

Begam

of

Bhopal

Agent

With

Political

say that

my men

Bombay on

the 28th

I write to

with their luggage will reach

I believe there will

October next. of

Major Impey,

reference to your D. 0. No. 2139, dated

4th September 1903,

sity

to

in Bhopal, Sehore.

being placed a second time under

their

quarantine at Bombay, specially not halt at

be no neces

Bombay, but go

when they

direct to

will

on board

the steamer and halt there. I

had

told

you that

steamer reserved. followers to

I

would have one entire said,

number from 250

40 animals.

informed

As

I

me

When you

I

estimated

to 300

and 30

my to

engaged the Akbar you

that she could accommodate 450

180

THE STORY OF A

the

of followers

list

which

is

I find

finally

from

ready that

only three hundred passengers,

there

are

horses

and other

40

live stock. I enclose a list for

In these circumstances when

your information. the

Now

besides animals.

passengers,

steamer has been hired by us and she

full

can accommodate 450 persons, the owner cannot charge any excess fare for any number that you

may have

given him as long as

exceed 450.

It

rests

it

does not

with us to increase or

decrease within that number.

It is essentially

necessary that the steamer be wholly reserved as I

would not

I trust

my Copy

like the interference of strangers.

you have engaged the AJcbar according

to

desire.

of

a to

letter

Major

from Her Highness the Begam Irnpey, Political

Agent

Many thanks for your good

of

Bhopal

in Bhopal.

advice conveyed

in your letter of 9th September.

According to your suggestion

I

have been in

communication with Haji Cassim and to be on the safe side have made him execute an agreement that in future there tion the extra

may

number

be no occasion to ques

of passengers.

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

181

As you say that such an agreement may not be legally valid in British Courts,

have

to

legally verified

it

you

and then returned to

As the steamer has been engaged by you

me.

I shall

much

be as

points

you will settle such The deemed advisable.

obliged

be

may

if

agreement signed by Haji Cassim

original

You may

closed herewith.

Vakil what

is

instruct the

required to be done to

agreement completely

Though Haji is

I request

is

en

State

make the

valid.

"Cassim

is

a good man, yet

it

desirable in a matter of business that a for

mal agreement should be made with him. Copy

22nd September 1903, from Her Bhopal to Col. Weir, in charge, Begam in Agent Bhopal.

a letter dated

of

Highness the Political

It

of

for females to get

would be a great trouble

on board the ship by palanquin from Bombay Railway arrange

my

Station.

with

saloons

the

may

Will

you therefore

Railway

authorities

be allowed to

run

as

kindly that far

as

dock near the steamer, whence by palanquin we can get on board the Akbar without any diffi culty.

I shall

be glad to have a reply.

182

THE STORY OF A

Copy

of

a

No. 2386, dated the 2nd October 1903, Weir, in charge, Political Agent in

letter

from

Sehore,

Bhopal, to

Col.

Her Highness

I enclose a

Captain

copy

Begam

of Bhopal.

of a letter just received

from

the Director of the Royal

Goodridge,

Indian Marine.

the

It is advisable that the

photo

graphs referred to should be sent without delay direct to Captain

C.I.E.,

Goodridge,

R.N., the

Royal Indian Marine Dockyard, Bombay, and I shall be glad if you will in due course inform me

when they have been Copy

of

No. 4030, dated Bombay, the 30th 1903, from the Director of the Royal Indian

a

letter

September Marine to the

of

sent on to him.

Political

Agent

in Bhopal.

The Secretary to Her Highness the Begam Bhopal gave me to understand that he would

send had.

me photographs

steam launches which he

I shall be glad to receive

one of them

of a letter

1903,

is fit

use at

Highness

me

to enable

as possible

Copy

of

With

as early

to judge whether

to go in the

AJcbar for

any

Her

Yemboo and Jeddah.

No. 2387, dated Sehore, the 2nd October

from Col. Weir,

Bhopal, to

them

Her Highness

reference

to

in

charge, Political

the

Begam

Agent in

of Bhopal.

your Highness

letter,

dated 10th September 1903, regarding the agree

ment executed by Haji Cassim,

I enclose for

your

183

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

information a copy of a letter No. 1256, dated

25th September 1903, from the Solicitor to the

Government

of

Bombay

Royal Indian

Marine.

your

would invite your

para. 4

to

arrangements be made for disembarking

definite

at

I

the

and suggest that Highness starts on the journey

special attention

before

to the Director of

Yemboo and

for

embarking at Jeddah on the

return journey. Copy

of a letter

No. 1256, dated 25th September 1903, from

the Solicitor

the Government

to

of

Bombay

to the

Director of the Royal Indian Marine.

I

have the honor to return

forwarded to

me

all

the

papers

with your letter No. 3781, dated

24th September 1903.

Assuming that the two documents which appear to have been written in Bhopal territory, constitute a valid and lawful contract there 2.

between H.

H.

the

Begam and

Haji Cassim

Joosub, I think that on the two documents taken together an agreement

which so in the

far as the

documents

has been entered

into,

terms of the contract as stated go,

would be recognised by a

British Indian Civil Court having jurisdiction in

the matter.

As against H. H. the Begam, how-

THE STORY OF A

184 ever,

no

can be brought in a British Indian

suit

Court in respect of the agreement without the consent of the Governor -General in Council.

Government

of India could

not take any steps

on the agreement not being a party to 3.

As part

of the

formed in Bombay, the

The

agreement

is

it.

to be per

Mr. Haji Cassim

letter of

Joosub should be stamped with rupee one under Article 20 of Schedule 8 to the Indian Stamp Act, 1899,

virtue of sections 3

by

(c)

and 35

(c)

of that

Act. 4.

have already pointed out that there

I

a considerable difference in the terms

agreement from those in the form

of

Party, with which, therefore,

suitably

be compared,

that there

is

it

cannot

beg to point out

nothing stipulated for in the agree

ment regarding the means steamer to the shore at at

I

the

Government

Charter

and

of

is

of transport

Yemboo and

from the

vice versa

Jeddah on the return voyage.

Copy

of a telegram dated Sehore, the 3rd

the Political

Agent

to

October 1903, from

Her Highness Nawab Sultan

Jehan Begam.

2392.

Eobinson

Information just received that Major

cannot

conveniently

be spared to

185

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

accompany you; Major Mac watt

will

be deputed

Major Mac watt asks permission to take Government have no objec wife with him.

instead. his

tion,

but state that

ness to decide is

;

it is

a matter for your

High

kindly wire your decision as time

short and orders must issue sharp as to Major

Macwatt

s

movements.

of a letter dated Bhopal, the 4th October 1903, from Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal to Major Impey,

Copy

Political

in Bhopal.

Agent

As regards the agreement executed between me and Haji Cassim I have already written to

you and again write to say that if it is not in the form of Government Chartered Company, kindly have the same

rectified that it

may

be useful in

case of breach of contract on his part.

As to the means to the shore at

of transport

Yemboo and

my

But

followers.

for

Jeddah

vice versa at

on the return voyage, any kind for

from steamer

of

me and

boat

may do

other ladies a

small steamer or a boat with rooms will be very desirable.

I

have

Goodridge about this time has

also

it.

enquired from Captain

As no arrangement up to

been made, so kindly get

arranged for me.

You have

this

returned and

matter I

hope

186

THE STORY OF A

now

everything will be conveniently settled at

an early date. Copy

of a letter dated

Bhopal, the 4th October 1903, from

Her Highness the Nawab Begam

of

Bhopal

to Captain

Good ridge, Bombay.

According to your

dated the 30th

letter,

September, to the address of the Political Agent in Bhopal,

I

send you in a separate cover the

photographs of the steam launches.

We so I

have no experience will

hope you

of sea-voyage,

me

kindly give

and

necessary

and help me in arranging for such may contribute towards a comfortable

instructions,

things as

and

safe voyage, since

you are not only well versed

in this respect,

but an expert in

a sea-voyage.

Therefore I ask you as a friend the

means of transport which ing at

will

that concerns

all

be suitable for land

Yemboo and getting on board

the return voyage

;

I

am

sure your advice will be

very valuable and useful to me.

may do

for

my

followers,

Any kind of boat

but

steamer or a boat with rooms personally.

form me

if I

I shall

be glad

if

or

think a small

I

will

you

do

this

for

me

kindly in

will

should have to take with

AJcbar a steamer or a boat of

Bombay,

Jeddah on

at

me

in the

kind from

whether such a thing can be had at

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Kamran, Yemboo

or Jeddah,

187

and whether you

can kindly arrange for one. Please also let

me know whether

there will

be any additional charge for taking such a boat

from Bombay, Kamran, Yemboo or Jeddah. Copy of a letter dafced JBhopal, the 4th October 1903, from Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal to Col. Weir, Political Agent in Bhopal.

With

reference

to

dated 2nd October 1903, to

your D. 0. No. 2386, I

am

forwarding to-day

Captain Goodridge the photographs of the

steam launches.

I

have

also enquired

from him

the means of transport that will be suitable for

me

at the time of landing

at

Yemboo, and em

barking at Jeddah on the return voyage. Copy of a letter No. 650., dated 10th October 1903, from Major Tmpey, Political Agent in Bhopal, to Her High ness the Begam of Bhopal.

Please

refer

to

your Highness

Yaddasht

dated the 20th August 1903, regarding the journey to the Hijaz.

I

have received a telegram stating

that the Secretary of State has telegraphed that the Turkish

honors,

Government

escort,

are willing to accord due

and customs

facilities to

your

Highness, as in the case of the Sultan of Zanzibar,

and that your Highness may be accompanied by

THE STORY OF A

188

your own suite and soldiers so

far as

unarmed Moslems. The Secretary

of State

communication

to send a further

ises

they are

prom as

to

quarantine.

The Government

of India

have no objection

to the detachment of the Bhopal Victoria Lancers

Major Karim Beg accompanying your

under

Highness, bub arms will apparently have to be

on board unless some arrangements can be

left

made

at

I

Yemboo and Jeddah.

have received no instructions regarding It

passports.

would be

pared in English of

as well to

all

have a list pre

the persons

who

will

accompany your Highness and to note thereon their names and office and approximate age. In the case of

women

it will, I

think, be sufficient

the relationship be noted, such as wife of so so or daughter of so

Copy

of a letter No.

1903, from Major

and

if

and

so.

67C., dated Bhopal, the llth October Impey to Her Highness the Begara of

Bhopal.

Captain Goodridge telegraphs regarding the

steam launch that your Highness wishes to take He thinks, the for use at Yemboo and Jeddah. launch

is

fit

to go.

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

He adds

that

if

your Highness

189 will

bear

all

expenses, he will send an Engineer up to survey I

it.

presume the expenses

man

expenses of the

know what

be the travelling

will

Please let

deputed.

me

reply to send.

Copy of a letter dated Bhopal, the llth October 1903, from Her Highness the Begain of Bhopal to Major Impey, Political

in Bhopal.

Agent

I write to

say that the photographs of the

steam launches were sent simply to give an idea to Captain Goodridge

coming at

there.

I

such boats were forth

if

knew that the steam launches

Bhopal were not

As there

to go.

fit

time to get them repaired, so call

an Engineer I shall

it is

is

no

needless to

here.

be obliged

arrange and procure

kind at Bombay.

if

Captain Goodridge could

for

me

If this

a boat of similar

cannot be done

life

boats will do instead. Copy of a letter dated Bhopal, the loth October 1903, from Her Highness the Begain of Bhopal to Major Impey, Political

I

my

am

Agent

in Bhopal.

told that

all

my

luggage and that of

followers going with us

opened

for

Duty

at the

to

Customs

Hedjaz Office,

will

be

Bombay.

190

THE STORY OF A

Will you kindly let

me have

a letter addressed to

the Commissioner of Customs or the City Magis trate,

that

certifying

the

luggage

contained

nothing that could be injurious to health and not they contained contraband articles, so that we

may

be saved of great deal of trouble.

Copy

of a letter dated

Her Highness Political Agent I

Bhopal, the 17th October 1903, from

the

Begam

of

Bhopal to Major Irnpey,

in Bhopal.

have received your

letter No. 77C.,

dated

the 16th October 1903.

As

to

1 of

para.

your

aware that the quarantine

letter,

of

my

you are

fully

followers will

take place at Dip, and that of mine in the garden

which

is

at a long

distance from the city.

Re

garding disinfection of the train, please ask the General Traffic Manager, G.

I.

P. Ry., to get this

thoroughly done according to the rules, and will

strictly see

that

no communication with

intermediate places takes place.

ments are being made of

my

I

The arrange

for the proper disinfection

saloons.

As to para. 2 of your letter, kindly ask Haji Cassim to disinfect the steamer according to

191

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. regulation and to destroy the rats.

I

have

also

written to him on the subject.

As to your para. be the

of a

size

3,

I

know not what should

steamer under Turkish

rules.

Kindly enquire from Captain Goodridge whether the Akbar measures according to their rules. If not, please ask for

him

to arrange for another steamer

me which may

does

not

answer.

In case the Akbar

the required conditions,

fulfil

willing to go in another steamer, for I

made up my mind

I

have

am fully

to undertake the pilgrimage.

As to your para.

have to say that plague has broken out only in one quarter of Bhopal, and for the last

few days by the favour of God,

subsiding there.

you think of

Health

it

it is

Under these circumstances

if

necessary, the Constantinople Board

may

very outset

4, I

I

be informed.

However, from the

have been under the impression

that^my quarantine will be made at Kamran. I have arranged and packed up everything for the journey, and now my feet are in the stirrups, so to say, and thus the dread of quarantine would

not deter me, specially when this

I

journey in the holy path,

myself to Almighty God.

am

undertaking

and so

I

entrust

192

THE STORY OF A

Copy of a letter dated Bhopal, the 22nd October 1903, from Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal to Major Impey,

in Bhopal.

Political

Agent

Your

letter

No. 84C. dated the 21st Octo ?

ber 1903, to hand.

I

am much

indebted to you

are taking for

for the trouble

you

and that

followers, during our journey to

of

my

If the

the Hijaz.

agree to bring

my

special close to

them

Railway lighted

me

Officials

my

I

up with lamps by

shall

my

my

disinfected.

agree,

garden, I

brought to

garden two or three days before

and to have

comfort

Kailway authorities do not

carriages to be

my

shall order

my

departure Should the

have the place

my men who

are with

in quarantine. I will forbid the

by the

are not travelling

ing of

my own

attendance of persons

suite

may have been exposed I shall

my

be very glad

garden

any day

special

who

and the meet

with other people

who

to infection. if

you

before

will call

on me in

you leave

for

Bombay. Ere this Haji Cassirn had been advised to clean

the Akbar.

But

I

have recently heard

same dirty condition. Haji Cassim has again been reminded that only

that she

is still

in

the

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. a few days remained for

193

arrival there,

and

so the steamer should at once be cleansed.

In

reply he carelessly wires

and

tary,

I

my

my

to

Private Secre

send the telegram to you through

the State Vakil for your perusal. of a letter dated Bhopal, the

Copy

Her Highness Political

the

Begam

24th October 1903, from

Bhopal to Major Iinpey,

in Bhopal.

Agent

I learn

of

from Major Macwatt that no bunga

low or house

is

available at

Yemboo.

am

I

sure

he and Mrs. Macwatt will be put to great incon venience

if

they were to stay there longer.

His Britannic Majesty

can find

But in

Legation at Jeddah they

s

accommodation.

comfortable

Please

therefore ask Captain Goodridge to settle with

the owner of the

Akbar that

S. S.

after leaving

Yemboo, she may convey Major and Mrs. Macwatt to Jeddah on her way back to Bombay.

us at

Copy

the 25th October 1903, from

of a letter dated Bhopal,

Her Highness Political Agent

Nawab

the

Khan

Bombay.

been to the place,

have been made

of Bhopal, to

Major Impey,

in Bhopal.

Nasrullah

pleasure trip to

much

Begam

all

Sahib

is

going on a

As he has never before necessary arrangements

for his stay there,

and

I shall

be

obliged iffyou will send himlettersof intro13

PII

194

THE STORY OF A

duction to those Government Officers whose ac

quaintance he

may

Copy

of

will

be useful to him or whose services

require. a letter No. 890., dated Bhopal, the 26th October

1903, from Major Impey, Political Agent in Bhopal, to Her Highness the Begara of Bhopal.

Please refer to

my

letters

No. 65C., dated

the 10th October, and No. 770., dated the 16th

October 1903, regarding the journey to the Hijaz.

Consequent on the appearance of plague at Bhopal the Sanitary Board at Constantinople insists

Abu

upon ten days quarantine

Saad.

They consent

at

Kamran

to your Highness

or

and

on your ship, provided that the conditions previously specified have been

suite performing it

complied with.

The Turkish Government ask

for a written

assurance that your Highness accepts condition as to suite

and

soldiers.

I

am, therefore, directed

to ask your Highness to furnish a written assur

ance that your suite and soldiers will consist of

unarmed Mohamedans. Copy of a letter dated Bhopal, the 26th October 1903, from Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal to Major Impey, Political

Agent

in Bhopal.

In reply to your letter No. 89C., dated the 26th October 1903, please refer to my letter dated

195

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

the 19th October, in reply to your letter No. 770.,

dated the 16th October 1903, regarding the condi

imposed by the Turkish Government. Please inform the Sanitary Board at Constan

tions

tinople that at

Dip and

my

suite is

undergoing quarantine

the garden which

I in

is far

from the

city of Bhopal.

You have

already asked the General Traffic

Manager, Bombay, and Captain Goodridge, Dir ector of the Indian Marine to the

ernment, to disinfect

my

Bombay Gov

special train

and the

steamer respectively, and to comply with the

Turkish rules regarding pilgrim ships in respect of S. S.

Akbar.

places I have arranged that

intermediate special

To forbid communication with

my

be brought on the Bhopal-Ujjain

will

Railway siding close to my garden. Thus I have complied with every condition specified by the Turkish

Government.

course, permit

me

to the Hijaz only

with

that I

am

of

proceeding

to discharge religious obliga

merely for the protection of our and property that we wanted to take arms

tions. life

to say

As to the arms,

us,

It

is

and

I trust

have already

that the British Government

satisfied the

Turkish Government

THE STORY OF A

196

However,

in this respect.

when

steamer

think

I

take arms with us and leave

proper to

it

them on board the

of our

satisfied

,

safety

on the

road.

What do you

say as to this step

If it

?

does not seem advisable I can proceed unarmed. Copy of a letter dated Bhopal, the 27th October 1903, from Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal to Major Impey, Political

Agent

in Bhopal.

With reference to your letter No.

890., dated

the 26th instant, I write to assure you that

and

soldiers are

No

Mohamedans.

all

one

my

suite

will

take arms with them except some respectable

members for

whom it

(2)

is

family and

essential to

names

are the (1)

my

of

keep arms.

of the persons

Sahibzada Obaidullah Harnidullah

,,

officials of

Khan Khan

(3)

Mian Mahomed All Khan

(4)

Saadat

...

...

...

(6)

Mohammad Khan Ikbal Mohammad Khan Jalil Mohammad Khan

(7)

Major Karirn Beg, Commanding

(8)

Mian

(5)

...

and

my

Following

their

One sword. One Rook

,,

,,

Officer

Ashik

Bakhshi (9)

Captain

Khan

Husain ...

Muhammed ...

Khan ...

Husain

arms rifle

:

and

one sword or dagger. One sword or dagger.

...

...

State,

,,

.PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Mohammad

(10)

charge,

Afzal

Khan,

"Risaldar

197

in ...

One sword

or dagger.

Permit me to say that ordinary pilgrims are allowed permits to proceed to Mecca with arms.

The honours bestowed on me by the

Government

are

Government.

I

me

unknown

not

British

to the Turkish

want you to kindly

therefore

have these aforesaid persons permitted to take arms with them. For I hope

intercede for

to

that through your intercession the Porte will

accede to

men

my

request,

are taking

and with

this

for

Turkish Government.

However,

acceded

I

also to send

my

if

on arrival at

request was not

leave those arms at the British

Consulate or with Major

you

an answer from the

be informed that

to, I will

my said

For J have now

arms with them.

no more time to wait

Yemboo,

hope

me

Mac watt

license for the

there.

I

ask

above-named

arms. of a letter No. 910., dated Bhopal, the 27th October 1903, from Major Impey, Political Agent in Bhopal, to Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal.

Copy

Mr. Devey, His Britannic Majesty at Jeddah,

has informed the

India that he Dr.

S.

s

Consul

Government

of

telegraphed to the Vice-Consul,

M. Hussain, now at Tayif, to communicate

THE STORY OF A

198

verbally to His Excellency the Vali of the Hijaz r

the intention of your Highness to perform the

pilgrimage

and to arrange

for

and

facilities

courtesies.

The grand Sharif has on hearing

of

notified his satisfaction

your Highness

approaching

visit,

and considers himself bound to pay you as all other Mussulman Rulers due respects and honour, but especially

to

your Highness because he knew

your predecessors.

A be

promise

is

made that your Highness

made comfortable and taken The

care

will

of.

Vali has requested permission of

the

Sublime Porte to put your Highness and suite in the

as

new Musafirkhana

of the Sultan in

Mecca

no other house can hold 300 persons. I trust

that these assurances will be consid

ered satisfactory by your Highness. Copy

of a letter dated Bhopal, the 28th October 1903, from the Begam of Bhopal to Major Impey,

Her Highness Political

Agent

in Bhopal.

Referring to your letter No. 98C., dated 27th October, I offer

my

and the Government arranged for

my

heartiest thanks to yourself of India

my comfort and

journey to the

Hijaz.

who have

so kindly

convenience during Please convey

my

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. gratitude to

me

in the

be

very

who have secured

all officers

these facilities and

made arrangements

new Musafirkhana, comfortable

sojourn in

199

I

there,

for

to lodge

hope that during

me

my

I will

brief

Arabia."

The terms

settled

about quarantine were as

follows: 1.

Quarantine to be out of Bhopal.

2.

Those in quarantine to have no com munication from outside.

3.

Train to be washed and disinfected.

4.

The steamer

s

size

to be according to

Turkish rules. 5.

Rats in steamer to be

6.

Steamer to be cleansed according to

killed.

quarantine rules.

Intimation to be given

7.

if

Bhopal affected

with plague. of a letter No. 770., dated Bhopal, the 16th October 1903, from Major Impey, Political Agent in Bhopal, to Her Highness the Begain of Bhopal.

Copy

have received a telegram stating that on

I

the following conditions your Highness suite will

be exempted from quarantine after satisfactory

medical

Saad

:

inspection

and

disinfection

at

Abu

200

THE STORY OF A

Quarantine to be undergone outside Bho-

(1)

and train to Bombay disinfected beforehand, communication with intermediate places being pal

forbidden and transit to shipping being subject to sanitary surveillance. (2)

Ship to be disinfected and rats destroyed.

(3)

Turkish rules for pilgrim ships in regard

measurement of ship to be complied with.

to exact

Bhopal becomes infected with plague before your Highness departure, the fact must be (4)

If

Board

notified to the Constantinople

I fear that this last condition

of Health.

means

that,

now

plague has broken out at Bhopal, quarantine

will

be enforced.

As a precautionary step

I

put the disinfect

ing of the steamer I intended to travel

the hands

of

Captain Goodridge,

C.I.E.,

Director of the Koyal Indian Marine.

14th

before

September 1903,

from Bhopal,

I

Agent

to

the the

Moham

with a letter from the

see

thoroughly disinfected.

On

in

departure

sent Sahibzadah Hafez

med Ubaidullah Khan Political

my

in,

if

the

steamer

was

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

201

Copy of a letter dated Bhopal, the 9th September 1903, from Major L. Impey, Political Agent in Bhopal, to Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal. I enclose a

copy

of a letter dated the 8th

which

September 1903,

I

have received from

Haji Cassim.

your Highness wishes to have an agree

If

ment drawn up it would be as well to have it done in a legal manner as it is possible that the document executed

in

Bhopal, of which Haji

assim writes, might not be valid in a British

Court of Law. I enclose

a letter to Captain Goodridge to

introduce Sahibzada Obaidullah Khan. of a letter dated Bombay, the 8th September 1903, from Haji Cassim to Major L. Impey, Political Agent

Copy

in Bhopal.

have the honour to inform you that

I

arrived

in

Bombay

quite

safe

this

I

morning.

Before leaving Bhopal I contemplated having an interview with you and enquired whether you

was informed that you had the Begam Sahib. Meanwhile Her

were at home.

gone to see

I

Highness sent for

me when

I

went to

call

on

had the pleasure of meeting her at home, and she was good enough to make me a present her.

I

202

THE STORY OF A

of a

shawl and some cloth.

She then told

me

which had been prepared complied with her command and

to sign an agreement in

Urdu.

I

She agreed to pay

signed the same.

men at Rs.

for

50 more

100 each, also in the event of her being

kept in quarantine, Her Highness agreed to

pay me demurrage at the

rate of Rs. 300 (three

hundred) for 8 days only. Moreover, be detained at any other place she

pay a demurrage at Rs. time the ship

letter.

order

the ship

is

also to

300 per day for the

detained there.

lie

Please pardon

my

if

I shall

me

for

any

error

you

see in

be happy to carry out any

you wish.

of a letter dated Bhopal, the 16th September 1903, from Her Highness the Begara of Bhopal to Col. Weir,

Copy

Political

Agent

in Bhopal.

I

learn to-day from Sahibzada Obaidullah

Khan

that Captain Goodridge has very kindly

him by showing him round the steamers and helped him to see other interesting

entertained

places. I

was very glad to hear

to kindly will

convey

my

of this

and ask you

best thanks to him.

kindly ask Captain Goodridge, as he

You is

an

203

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

expert in sea voyages, to suggesb whatever he

think advisable

for

my

safe

and comfortable

voyage, to Sahibzada Obaidullah Khan, in

still

will

be

who

is

In this connection whatever

Bombay.

advice

may

by

given

Captain

Goodridge,

the Sahibzada will be glad to arrange accordingly. of a letter dated Bhopal, the 22nd September 1903, from Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal to Major

Copy

Impey,

Political

in Bhopal.

Agent

Trusting you are in the enjoyment of excel lent health.

Sahibzada Obaidullah

Khan came back

to

Bhopal yesterday from Bombay.

He saw a

present

Goodridge

the

AHar.

S. S.

little

will get

dirty.

But

The I

is

ship

hope

her cleansed before

at

Captain

my

arrival

there.

Through your kindness Captain Goodridge and the Secretary received Sahibzada Obaidullah Khan very courteously. I thank you for this. I

am

quite well.

convey tion

his best

The Sahibzada

thanks

you gave him,

salaams.

desires

me

to

for the letter of introduc

and sends

you

his

best

204

THE STORY OF A

hope you are coming in the next week. Before taking my departure, it seemed to :

I

me

that I ought to clear

matter

my

conscience in the

any obligation I owed to my people. To do this was the more necessary, as man is

wont

of

to give little thought

comings.

to his

own

short

Accordingly on the 24th of Eajab

1321 Hijra, after performing the AST service at the Asifi mosque, while bidding farewell to people, I asked their pardon

and

in

my

general terms

;

was very pleased that my faithful sub in pardoning me from their hearts, prayed

I

jects,

for

my

all

the people

safe return.

to

As

it

was impossible

assemble at one spot, the

following proclamation asking for issued

for

pardon was

:

"PROCLAMATION.

DATED THE 2ND EAJAB

1321 HIJRA.

To

ALL INHABITANTS OF BfiOPAL TERRITORY. Just as the Glorious Creator of the two worlds,

when

exalting

some

of his creatures

more than

imposed on the ruled the duty of obe dience and good-will towards the ruler, so He has

others, has

205

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

bound the

ruler his

performing

and made him responsible duty to those over

for

whom He

and has assigned to each His different To pardon with one stroke of his pen duties.

rules,

(breaches

Him

is

the innumerable duties owed to

of)

but a

trifling

manifestation of the mercy

and forgiveness of the All- Merciful Pardoner. But the extreme justice of that True Judge does not admit even of His shutting His eyes to

any infringement

of

our duties to our people

have been forgiven

us.

Ever since we assumed the administration

of

until those infringements

we have exerted

the State,

ourselves, as far as

promoting with sympathy the in our beloved subjects, and it has been

possible, in

terests of

our

constant effort to promote their comfort

and welfare by such measures power.

Still,

as

lay

in

our

humanly speaking, no one who has

a just disposition can feel confident that he has

discharged his duties befittingly, or that he has

not unconsciously caused injury

by oversight

or neglect.

As

it is

our fixed determination to go on the

holy pilgrimage and, God willing, we shall

sail

THE STORY OF A

206

on the

first

week

Shaaban, and, as

the

of

it is

glorious

month

essential that the

of

mutual

discharge of personal obligations should precede

any other virtuous undertaking, we remind all our people of our duties as a ruler and our rights and we request them through this publication, and order all our State officials to request them, of their goodness of heart and as a Sovereign,

human sympathy

to forgive us

of their rights of

which we may have, unwit

any infraction

tingly or otherwise, been guilty in order that

we

acquit ourselves of obligations to our sub

may

and so obtain ease

jects,

assurance of heart. shall,

God

If

our

of conscience life

is

willing, return after five

with

spared,

we

months and

devote ourselves again to the task of promot ing

the comfort, welfare, and general good

our subjects.

We

earnestly trust that

all

of

our

well-disposed subjects and servants will sincerely

pray to God

for

the forgiveness of our sins,

the acceptance of our pilgrimage, and our safe return.

We now

entrust our subjects and ser

vants to the divine care of that King of Kings

who

is

the Creator, King, Guardian, and Pro

tector of every living creature,

PILGRIMAGE TO H1JAZ. "SECOND

1207

GENERAL PROCLAMATION.

DATED THE 24TH RAJAB

1321 HIJRA.

Thanks be to God whose grace and bounty

me

alone have given

the power to undertake a

pilgrimage to the two holy shrines

gather greater lustre

embark

shall

month

known

well

in the first

Shaaban

of

and

to

in

glory).

(May they God willing, I

week

of the glorious

the current year.

It is

everyone that ever since the

Kings has placed the reins of adminis tration in my hands, I have always regarded

King

of

best beloved and have, as

my

subjects as

my

far

as possible,

performed the duty

after

of looking

them, alleviating their sufferings, listening

and doing them justice as being more important than my own comfort and ease. It has always been my object to

to their complaints,

study the over

whom

well-being and

happiness of those

am

not, however, fully

I rule.

satisfied that I

have altogether

in regard to those

my and

care. it is

I

whom God

fulfilled

my

duty

has committed to

Although God is the forgiver of sins one of the manifestations of His divine

power to overlook the transgressions of His servants, for which reason I trust in His boun-

THE STORY OF A

208

teous grace and mercy to pardon especially

which

when

means

a

is

my faults,

on a journey,

starting

and salvation,

of forgiveness

that true and just Judge only closes his eyes

still

when

his servants

all

pardon the transgression of

I therefore

their rights.

to

am

I

all

make

that they will have regard to

whom

that any

and

have made to serve them and

I

have consciously or uncon

sciously injured will pardon all will,

my efforts

I

endeavours that

that

a general appeal

me my

fault,

and

with true hearts and pure minds,

pray to God that this long journey by sea and

by land may come that

we may return

to a satisfactory end, to

them

Kharitas couched in addressed

Hon

the

in safety.

similar

terms

were

His Excellency the Viceroy and

to

Agent to the Governor- General

ble the

in Central India.

given below

and

Copies of these Kharitas are

:

of a Kharita dated the 5th October 1903, from H. H. the Ruler of Bhopal to H. E. the Viceroy and GovernorGeneral of India.

Copy

Perhaps

it

is

not

unknown

to

the well-

informed Government how with devotion and loyalty to the

Paramount Power

I

have worked

209

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. diligently for the last 2 years

my rule

and 4 months

of

labouring night and day with sustained

my brain for the welfare and amelior ation of my subjects and the good administra tion of my State. Now, when I have already drain on

made arrangements for House of God, and, God

Bombay by

for

willing, I shall sail

the end of October of the

year, I consider

Government

a journey to the Sacred

it

from

current

desirable to solicit the British

any shortcoming which human weakness might have been uncon

sciously

to forgive

committed by me.

If

the thread of

life

remains intact, and, with the mercy of Almighty

God,

I

return safe,

I shall

my remaining days

pass

my ancestors in loyalty to and in co-operation with the Government, as well as in performing my duties towards my State and my subjects. Else, in other case, I leave all my three children

like

under the protection

of the

in the care of the British

Real Protector and

Government.

the benign Government will not, for ancestor

s

my

I

hope

and

my

sake, withhold from them the honour

and dignity they have a welfare and prosperity

right to, will

and that

their

always receive a

favourable consideration at the hands of Gov-

PH

14

THE STORY OF A

210

ernment.

I,

however, make

for the forgiveness of

my

a similar

faults to His Imperial

Majesty the King-Emperor (may

his

empire last

and Your Excellency individually.

long)

Your

request

I

hope

Excellency will be so kind as to fall in with

and

my request

oblige

me by forwarding my

prayer to H. M. the King-Emperor. to leave behind

me

at Bhopal

my

I

am

going

infant grand

whose parents

daughter, Birjis Jehan Begam,

accompany me in my pilgrimage, and I hope the Government will take every care of the said Sahibzadi

who

is

the daughter of

Sahibzada Hafiz Obaidullah

my

second son,

Khan Bahadur.

Kharita dated the 13th Rajab 1321 A, H., corres ponding to the 5th of October 1903, from H. H. the

Copy

of a

Ruler of Bhopal to the Hon ble Mr. Bayley, the Agent to the Governor-General in Central India.

not unknown

It is

British officers under

the welfare

to

the well-informed

what drain on

and amelioration

of

my

brain for

my subjects, and

with what night and day labour for the good administration of

my

State,

and with how much

and co-operation with the mighty Government, I have passed the last 2 years and

loyalty to

4 months

my rule. Now, when I have already my preparations for a journey to the

of

completed

211

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Sacred House

bark from

of

God, and, God-willing,

Bombay by

the current year,

the end of October of

have deemed

I

em

will

necessary to

it

shortcomings which might have been due to

my my

human

the

solicit

Government to

the British

spared to

If life is

frailty.

my

travel, I shall pass the

like

my loyal

jects.

remainder of

Government

duties due to

my

Otherwise, I leave

under the protection

my

of the

my

it will

and

my

sub

my

three children

Real Protector and

Government.

I

from the kindness, favour and leniency

Government that

life

as well as in per

State and

all

in the care of the British

myself and

from

safe

ancestors, in co-operating with

in loyalty to the

my

me and

me back

Cherisher of the world brings

forming

forgive

hope

of

the

not, in consideration of

ancestors, withhold

from them

the honour and dignity they deserve, and that it will

pay an attention

prosperity.

While

same request

soliciting

to H. M. the

the Viceroy of India I

hope you

oblige

the

to their well-being

will

and

pardons

of

to

concede to

India

make the

King-Emperor, H. E.

me by forwarding my

Viceroy

I

and

you individually.

my

request and

prayers to H. E.

and to His

Gracious

212

THE STORY OF A

Majesty the King- Emperor (may his empire last

have no mind to take up with me

I

long).

Sahebzadi

Birjis

Jehan

daughter.

I

my

Political

my

hope

Agent

wishes,

Begam,

friend,

her

often

grand

Major L. Impey,

in Bhopal, will, in

see

my

deference to

and take care

of

her.

Copy

of a

Kharita dated Simla, the 22nd October 1903, from

His Excellency Lord Curzon, Viceroy and GovernorGeneral of India, to Her Highness Nawab Sultan Jehan

Begam I

of Bhopal.

have received your Highness

October 1903, in which you inform

letter of 5th

me

of

your

approaching departure from India on a pilgrim age to Mecca.

Your Highness may rest assured that your devotion and loyalty to the British Empire have always

been

highly

appreciated,

and

I trust

that after your Highness has accomplished your pious undertaking I shall

in

due time hear

of

your safe return to India.

Your message to

His Majesty

for the

s

be duly communicated

Secretary of State for India,

information

Emperor.

will

of

His Majesty the King-

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

213

His Excellency the Viceroy sent a Kharita mine, of which the following

in reply to

translation

is

a

:

Pilgrims from India have to undergo quar

antine

two

at

The

places.

first

quarantine

takes place at the port of embarkation, the reason of plague in India being that the existence

known throughout

the world, and

it is

is

feared lest

in an excess of reli piously disposed Indians a dangerous state gious enthusiasm may travel in

of health,

and thus

either run the risk of being

sent back from the

Turkish quarantine, or

if

they are not sent back, spread infection to other

The second quarantine takes place

places.

Kamran, where a universal quarantine camp

at is

established under international agreement with a

view to safe-guarding the health of all countries. As the quarantine at Kamran has been insisted

upon by most

view of

of the

European powers, in certain special necessities, I could not have

possibly looked forward to any personal conces sion or interference on

on the part

my

behalf in this respect

of either the British or the Turkish

Government.

Nevertheless, I was accorded ex

ceptional treatment by both Governments, for

214

THE STORY OF A

which

regards the

As

are clue to them.

best thanks

my

quarantine, the British Govern

first

ment, as a mark of special distinction, decided that

it

would

suffice if I

and

my

followers were

segregated for ten days at some distance from

Bhopal City, and that detention

in

Bombay was

In regard to the quarantine at

unnecessary.

Kamran, the Turkish Government had agreed, at the request of the Government of India, to

exempt

provided that special sanitary

us,

arrangements were observed during the journey

by

rail

The Board

and steamer.

of

Health at

Constantinople had also no objections to urge.

However, before in

my

departure, plague broke out

Bhopal and the second quarantine accordingly

became necessary. Nevertheless, certain amount of favour here

I

received

a

too in that,

instead of undergoing detention at

Kamran,

it

was arranged that our steamer should be qua rantined at Bii Said

some two

a beautiful island situated

or three miles

from Jeddah

and

I

had

the choice of passing the period of quarantine on

boardship or on land. measures, forego

its

the

Notwithstanding these

Government

representations

of

India

did

not

and made further

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. efforts in the matter.

I

215

accordingly deemed

advisable, in pursuance of the wishes of

my

as

Govern

more than 100 persons with immediate companions and to send

ment, to keep

me

it

little

the rest on to the village of Dip, situated at a distance 12 miles south of Bhopal on the rail to undergo detention for ten days in an

way

open camp according to the quarantine rules. Khan Bahadur Munshi Inayat Husain, Officiat ing

and

Nasir-ul-Muham,

Mirza

Bahadur

Sardar

Karim Beg, Commanding the

Victoria

Lancers, were placed at the head of this party

and were required to act in conformity with the regulations laid down by me on the subject. Bhopal on the 26th Rajab 1321 (18th October 1903), and on the morning of

This caravan

left

the 27th Rajab (19th October), the Mir-i-Kafila

them

inspected

camp

for

I

all.

fixed

the

quarantine

myself and followers at the Nishat

Afza and Hayat Afza gardens, both of which are situated

two miles north

of

Bhopal.

The

former of these gardens dates from the time of

my mother, who

has found mercy, and the latter,

which

to

by me.

lies close

By

it

to the south, was laid out

reason of

its

healthy surroundings

216

THE STORY OF A

and outlying situation this spot was well adapted for a quarantine camp, and the Medical Officers could not but approve

of

These gardens

it.

contain sufficient buildings and they have open

grounds where tents can be pitched while the strong outer walls render necessary.

Parda

much

protection un

can also be

arrangements

satisfactorily carried out.

On

the 27th

Eajab 1321 Hijra (19th

of

October 1903), after morning prayer to the gardens

from the

I

proceeded

Sadr Manzil accom

Muhammad and Mian Muhammad

panied by the Sahibzadas Hafiz

Ubaidullah

Khan Sahib

Hamidullah Khan Sahib and

my

daughter-in-

The persons law, Shahryar Dulhan who are to undergo quarantine with me had already arrived. I took up my quarters with Sahiba.

the two Sahibzadas and

Nishat in the

post

Hayat

Afza.

Outside the office

A

I

women in the men remained

single wall is

a door for

gardens,

was opened

correspondence.

work

the

Afza gardens while the

two gardens, and there tion.

all

for

divides the

communica

a temporary State

the conveyance of

continued to

as usual all the time that I

do the State

was

in quaran-

217

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Nawab Muhammad

tine.

Nasrullah

Khan

Sahib

Bahadur and other prominent high officials of the State had permission to visit me, while I remained in Bhopal in order to take instructions

and confer with me

as to matters of importance.

The Lady Doctor, Miss Maclaren, inspected the women, and Major Macwatt inspected the

men at

daily.

The inmates

of the quarantine

camp

Dip were inspected by Major Macwatt and

Colonel

Weir,

who

visited

the

camp

for this

purpose from time to time.

The quarantine regulations were thus properly observed and the prescribed period of ten days came to a satisfac tory close.

On

the

20th

of

addressed to Major L. Impey, Bhopal, a letter

copy

of

October 1903 Political

I

Agent,

which the following

is

a

:

Copy of a letter dated Bhopal, the 20th October 1903, from Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal to Major Impey, Political Agent in Bhopal.

In continuation of your letter No. 80C., dated the 18th instant,

inform you that kindness

Now

I write all

have been

my

with great pleasure to

proposals through your

settled very satisfactorily.

only one thing remains for which

I

trouble

THE STORY OF A

218

It is this, that there is a large

you.

male and female followers with under quarantine.

we

tine is over

When

me

number

of

in the garden

the period of quaran

shall require carriages

and cars to

take us and our luggage to the Kailway station,

and

be obliged to send for conveyances

I shall

from she city which, I ent

with

my

special train

on the B.-U. Eailway

my

not be consist T

the quarantine regulations.

therefore that

to

may

fear,

my

be brought

and

close

special train is

timed

line,

garden, and, as

may

wish

opposite

Bhopal at 22-55, there will be no fear any other train running on that line at that

to leave of

hour.

This arrangement will obviate the necessity of

my sending for carriages and

as people will be able to If

you approve

of this,

walk up to the

you

the General Traffic Manager, for

my

from the city

carts

special in the said

will

special.

kindly write to

Bombay, to arrange

manner.

In case this

arrangement be not feasible kindly let me know if I can keep my carriages and carts with me in quarantine

and

should like to

properly

disinfect

know soon which

adopted, as only 8 days remain for

them.

I

course to be

my

departure,

21

PILGRIMAGE TO H1JAZ.

and I

so the sooner the question also

shall

thinks about I

Khan

ask Major

was glad

you

will travel

Please let

Bombay.

with

first class

for you.

There

with

me know whether

will

my special.

I

Bombay

or proceed to

as first intended.

me

kindly

compartment

you and the other If

me

advance

like to travel

with

what he

as to

from Nawab Nasrullah

to hear

a couple of days in

one

Mac watt

that you have been permitted to go with

bo

if

settled the better.

it.

me

you

is

be one

let

will

first

If

me know

be sufficient

class carriage

propose one compartment for

for

Major and Mrs. Macwatt.

one compartment be not sufficient kindly ask

General Traffic Manager, Bombay, for another first class

carriage to be attached to

my

special.

Kindly forward the accompanying letter to Mr. Bosanquet and oblige.

In reply to the above the following letter

was received from Major Impey on the 21st October 1903 :Copy

of a letter No. 84C., dated Bhopal, the 21st October 1903, from Major Tiripey, Political Agent in Bhopal, to Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal.

In accordance with your Highness

dated the 20th October,

I

letter,

have written to the

220

THE STORY OF A

General Traffic Manager to enquire whether the special train can

on the night

of the

28th in

stant be brought close to the garden palace. is

possible

not

that the of

approve

Railway authorities

It

may

proposal in which case

the

it

would be well to have the carriages disinfected Should the day before your Highness leaves. the Railway Officials agree

it will

be necessary

to have the place, where the train will stand,

up with lamps, and I should be inclined to advise Your Highness to forbid the attend lighted

ance of

all

persons

special, so as to

who

are not travelling

by the

own

prevent confusion, and your

suite meeting people

who have been exposed

to

infection. I

propose to leave for

Bombay on

the even

ing of the 27th instant, so as to see the AJcbar

on the 28th, and ascertain whether proper ar rangements have been made for your Highness. Shortly Traffic

after a

Manager

ceived informing will

letter

of the

me

that

be brought close to

to receive me.

G.

my

from the General I.

P.

my

Ry.

was

special

re

train

quarantine camps

221

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. Copy

No. 880., dated Bhopal, the 25th October

of a letter

in Bhopal, to 1903, from Major Iinpey, Political Agent of Her Highness the Begam Bhopal.

With reference

to the correspondence

dated the 22nd October,

ing

with your

the

General Traffic Manager, G.

letter,

agreed to the

special

end

I.

P. Ry., has

train being brought in

front of your garden palace on the night of the

He

28th instant.

states that a charge of

extra for engine power per hour or

hour

will I

Copy

have had a telegram from Colonel Weir

it

has

inspected

of a letter

AJcbar

and

dated Bhopal, the 15th October 1903, from the

Political

in Bhopal.

I

the

clean and sanitary.

Her Highness "

part of an

be made.

to say that he

found

Rs. 10

Agent

Begam

of

Bhopal to Major Impey,

have just heard from the General

Manager, G.

I.

P. Ry.,

Bombay, that

it

Traffic

has been

arranged that three third class carriages and one luggage van will be kept ready for

my

followers

Dip on the morning of the 28th October, in order to have the heavy luggages loaded in the

at

day time. same date reserved for

My

special will leave

at 20-40 P.M.

my

Bhopal on the

At Dip the carriages

followers will be attached to

my

222

THE STORY OF A

special,

and

expect to reach Bombay,

I

Bunder, on Friday, 30th October,

Wadi

at 7 in the

morning.

As

my

arrival in

will

hope you

Bombay

will be public, I

kindly arrange for the guard -of -

honour and salute

of guns.

In accordance with this letter arrangements

had already been made

on the morn

to provide

ing of the 28th October, one luggage van and

three third-class carriages at the railway station at Dip, for the inmates of the quarantine

and

their

These

luggage.

camp

persons were

to

enter the carriages beforehand with their luggage

and await the at 10-40

arrival of

A.M.,

when

my

their

special train at Dip,

carriages

would be

attached to the train and persons travelling in higher classes would take their respective berths.

Major Impey had ously,

left for

Bombay

and Nawab Muhammad

a

day previ

Nasrullah

Khan

Sahib Bahadur had also followed him by the mail train which preceded

my

special

by

a few hours.

been made Arrangements had already members of sending on some of the principal suite to reach

Bombay on the 28th

in order to see that

all

for

my

October 1903,

the luggage was properly

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

For

stowed away in the steamer. several

notables,

Committee, had

Munshi

Israr

this

the

constituting

purpose

Managing

deputed together with

been

Hasn Khan and they had acquitted charge in

themselves of their

a satisfactory

In accordance with the arrangements

manner. previously

made,

my

under the quarantine fumigated receive

223

and

me on

special

rules,

disinfected,

train

which,

had been properly stood

ready

to

the Bhopal-Ujjain Kail way line

towards the north

of the

Nishat Afza gardens,

midnight on the 6th Shaaban, 1321 Hijra, corresponding to the 28th October 1903. Put at

trust

on God

ting

my

the

Sahibzadas Hafiz

I got into

the train with

Muhammad

Khan Sahib Bahadur and

Ubaidullah

Hamidullah Khan

Sahib Bahadur, Shahryar Dulhan Sahiba, and all

at

the persons the

who had undergone quarantine The train then started and

gardens.

stopped for a few minutes at the Bhopal Railway station to take Major

and Mrs. Mac watt.

Our

next halt was at the Dip Railway station, where the inmates of the quarantine their carriages

them and

which

their

camp

stood ready

luggage.

to

got into receive

These vehicles were

THE STORY OF A

224

then attached to the special train and we soon

en

halts

need hardly mention the subsequent

I

started.

route

made by

the special

meet railway requirements. that

safely reached the

it

at 7 A.M.,

Bombay

train to

Suffice

to say

it

Victoria station at

on Friday, the 8th Shaaban

1321 Hijra, corresponding to the 30th October

On

1903.

the platform I was received

Muhammad

Nasrullah

Khan

Sahib

by Nawab Bahadur,

Major L. Impey, the Secretary to the Govern

ment

of

Bombay, Captain Goodridge,

num

a

ber of European ladies and gentlemen, several officials of

Bombay,

my and

who had preceded me

State

certain

Indian

merchants.

to

A

guard-of-honour was also drawn up on the plat

form and presented arms train, while a salute

bay

Government.

as I alighted

was fired by order

Some

of

the

from the

of the

Bom

individuals

me with

garlands and bouquets. The S. S. Akbar chartered for my voyage was standing close to the platform. On from the

presented

alighting

train I

and

my ladies were carried

in palanquins to

the ship where we embarked, and then the

came on board.

The

Agent and other on board to bid me

Political

European friends came

men

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

225

The correspondence which had been going on for some time past between the British and Turkish Governments regarding the arrange

farewell.

ments

for

journey had not been completed

my

up to the time of my departure from Bhopal, and several matters had not been finally settled. Accordingly at this last interview Major Impey informed me that I should probably be quaran tined at

Bu

Said, but that full information

be furnished to

steamer

me

at Aden.

Muhammad

in the afternoon

Khan

Nasrullah

came on board the ship At 5

P.M. the vessel

chanted the verse,

name it

of

G<\d

afloat,"

l/

first

during

left

it I

Bahadur

to take leave of me.

the

it

*o

jdJI

Usx*>

(the barge)

shores

(Here

experience of a long

of

am

I).

In

the

and

sets

"

India with This was

sea voyage

and

had opportunity to ponder over the

broad expanse

PH

;

one moors

we

Sahib

Nawab

weighed anchor and having

ejaculations of Labaik

my

After 12 noon the

the wharf and anchored near the

left

At about 4 o clock

gates.

would

of the ocean.

15

CHAPTER

III.

SEA VOYAGE. Sea sickness

is

initial stages of a

the necessary incident of the

journey by steamer.

Thanks,

however, to the excellent sanitary arrangements

made

in our ship, the suffering

on

this

account

was very slight and no one was much The only exception was Sahibzada Hafiz

affected.

mad

Muham

Khan Sahib Bahadur, whose was affected and who was sick. Major

Ubaidullah

heart

Mac watt

s

judicious treatment, however, checked

the sickness, and in a day or two the Sahibzada

was restored to complete

health.

I

do not

propose to discuss here the wonders of the sea

mentioned in most books

become a matter the

of the

night

of

of travel

common

16th

which have

knowledge.

Shaaban 1321

On

Hijra,

corresponding to the 7th November 1903, our ship anchored at

Aden

at 11 o clock.

In front

was a steamer belonging to some Prince, which was brilliantly illu

of our ship

German minated.

As long as

this

vessel

remained in

the harbour her beautiful lights proved a source

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

of

227

immense attraction and amusement

crew

of our ship,

and even

after

under way, her lights were

to the

she had got

visible

a long

for

As we reached Aden, a telegram from

distance.

Mr. Devey, the Imperial Consul at Jedda,

to

the address of the Captain of the Akbar was received, intimating that the vessel

anchor at

Kamran but

was not to

to proceed straight to

The next morning Lieutenant-Colonel Monk, of the Indian Medical Service, came to

Jedda.

examine the health

of the passengers

with the result of

pleased

Sahibzada Hafiz

his

Muhammad

and was

investigation.

Ubaidullah

Khan

Bahadur expressed a desire to visit Aden, and Colonel Monk gladly granted permis The Sahibzada accordingly went in a boat sion. Sahib

company with Sahibzada Mian Hamidullah Khan Sahib Bahadur, Sardar Bahadur Mirza

in

Karim Beg, Commanding the Captain other

Muhammad

persons.

returned,

journey they would

whole

of

Husain Khan and a few

After

thinking

the town.

Victoria Lancers,

about

that be

an

on able

hour their

to

they return

explore

the

But on our homeward

voyage, the Medical Officer would not let any

THE STORY OF A

228 of

crew leave

our

the ship

for

fear

of

in

fection from the cholera which generally attacks

the Hijaz in the pilgrimage season.

no infectious

however, the

diseases

This year, prevailed in

although the blessed coincidence of

Hijaz,

the Arafat day falling on a Friday had attracted

an extraordinarily large concourse

Even the Meccans were

of pilgrims.

surprised at

this

sence of sickness which they attributed to auspicious

ab

my

visit.

Our steamer weighed anchor at

3 P.M.

on

the 17th of Shaaban, corresponding to the 8th

November, and made straight the night of the of the ship

cruise

it

about

Jedda.

On

November the Captain

informed us that

it

would be inadvis

Jedda at night and that con

able to arrive at

sequently

llth

for

was better that the steamer should all

night and reach Jedda by day.

As there was no island near at which we could anchor,

we did not

out his idea,

and the Captain carried much to our discomfort. On Thurs object,

day, the 21st of Shaaban (12th

November

at 11 A.M., our shipcast anchor at

Bu

Said,

1903),

where

was proposed that we should be quarantined. Bu Said and Jedda face one another, being

it

229

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ,

separated by a part of the

Bed

Sea.

Our ship

was anchored nearer Jedda than Bu Said to As

facilitate the transportation of luggage, etc.

soon as our ship arrived, Abu Bakr Rashidi and

Abdul Aziz brought us the holy water of Zamzam and other sacred gifts, and intimated that every one of the attendants at the Kaaba was anxious to act as our the

Zamzam

announced

Zamzami

water), but

(dispenser

of

that the Sharif had

his decision to confer the office

upon

any one who paid him 50 guiness. The Sharif thus amassed much money. The same day, Khan Bahadur Doctor Mu

hammad

Husain, British Vice-Consul, accom

approached our ship in a launch and excused themselves from

panied by the quarantine

officer

coming on board on the ground that the vessel was in quarantine. From the conversation that took place between them and

Muhammad

Ubaidullah

and

Mac watt,

Major

it

Khan

Sahibzada Hafiz Sahib

appeared

Bahadur that

the

Imperial Consul at Jedda had telegraphed to the authorities at Constantinople for our tion from

exemp

quarantine and that a favourable

reply was shortly expected.

The Vice-Consul

230

THE STORY OF A

and

companion then returned to Jedda.

his

The next day, which was a Friday, Mr. Devey, the British Consul at Jedda, called on us and after

exchanging the usual

civilities

stated that

health of our ship was satisfactory, he

as the

had moved the Sublime Porte by telegraph to forego the quarantine restrictions.

Mr. Devey

gave us to understand that as soon as we

also

saw a black should

flag hoisted

know

over the Consulate we

that sanction had been received.

The reply from Constantinople, however, was so long delayed that our steamer had to pass six

days in quarantine.

At

6 o clock

evening of the seventh day, Sahibzada

mad Hamidullah Khan

told

me

on the

Muham

that people had

seen the black signal flying over the Consulate.

At 8 the

P.M.,

Major Mac watt received a

letter

from

Consul intimating that sanction had been

received to exemption from quarantine.

The

men were now disembarked and fumigated.

The

women,

however, were allowed to

board out

of regard for

disinfection the

My

followers

men

were

me.

remain on

After undergoing

also returned to the ship.

moreover exempted from

those restrictions to which

the generality of

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. pilgrims are subjected.

send on

fifty

It

231

had been decided to

men from Jedda

Hafiz

Muhammad Abd-ur-Rahman,

dent

of

Ahmad,

the

State

Stables,

Tahsildar, and

So

to Mecca.

Superinten

Hafiz

Muhammad

Sayyid

Akil

Khan,

Superintendent of the Palace Stables, together with

47

after

men,

return to

been

not

were for

the

provided

sacrifice.

to

these

persons

had

ihram,

they

assume the

by the State with victims The Consul and the Vice-Consul

came on board the told

As

ship.

able

and did not

disinfection,

undergoing

Jedda

to

direct

proceeded

them that

it

ship at 9 o clock,

would be better

if

and

I

the steamer

put to sea that day as the month of Ramzan would begin two days later, and I was anxious, if

possible,

Medina the

to

month

of

fasting in

They stated in reply wished me to visit Mecca first,

Illustrious.

that the Sharif after

pass the

which he would make

arrangements

have me safely escorted to Medina.

I was,

to

how

most anxious to pay a visit to the latter shrine. I knew that on the occasion of my ever,

deceased grand-mother certain obstacles

s

pilgrimage to Mecca,

had arisen and such

fearful

232

THE STORY OF A the

the dangers besetting

stories of

journey

were told as to prevent her from proceeding to

my mind

Apprehension crossed

Medina.

the same fate

should

befal

and

me,

I

lest

ac

cordingly informed the Consul and his Deputy

that

it

was

my

intention to proceed to Medina

before pilgrimage, the pilgrimage.

them that

I also told

had not assumed the pilgrim s dress at Yalamlam, without which I could not I

possibly enter the sacred precincts.

me

they informed

own

litter for

my

Thereupon

that the Sharif had sent his

conveyance in charge

me what

trustworthy personages, and they asked I

had to say on

this point.

for this kind solicitude I

had brought out

occasion

for

accepting

would take with

whom

me

thanked^the Sharif

and pointed out

my own

however, that, to mark

I

litter,

the

my the

litter

sed

my

that, as

there was no I

offer.

added,

sense of gratitude, I

noble persons

four

the Sharif had deputed to escort

the

of four

should be sent back.

When

me and I expres

intention to proceed direct to Medina,

the Vice-Consul repeatedly observed that such

a step

would annoy the

Sharif,

manner indicated that he was

ill

and

his

at ease.

own This

233

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

may, perhaps, be accounted for by the fact that the relations between him and the Sharif are Shortly afertwards Ali

very close.

Acting Governor of

Jedda, his Deputy

Beg, a Medical Officer, and a

on me.

Officer) called

the Vice-Consul,

Yamani Beg,

Bim

Faik

Bashi( Military

Through the medium

who acted

as interpreter,

of

the

Governor enquired after my health and whether m7 v y a g e had been prosperous and after the ;

usual interchange of

His

civilities

informed me that

Majesty the Sultan had given

Imperial

express orders to the effect that safely escorted, for

of 700

I

should be

which purpose a detachment

Turkish troops with

be placed at to escort

my

disposal.

two guns was to This detachment was

me from Yembu

His Majesty

to Medina, and as

orders would take effect from the

s

date on which the period of quarantine expired and the troops would have started from Medina accordingly, they could not yet have reached

Yembu. that

I

The

Governor therefore

suggested should take an escort of 200 troops from

the Military force stationed at Jedda and supple

ment

it

by

a

similar

agreed to this proposal

number but

at

Yembu.

urged

that

I

the

234

THE STORY OF A

proposed escort should be detailed as early as pos sible as our steamer would get under way during the course of the day, and I had to reach Medina

Ramzan.

before

The Governor stated

that the arrangements should be

and

I

give

could

sail

in reply

made that day

had perforce to another day was spent in the

the next day.

way and

I

Jedda harbour.

Next day at 4 P.M., Ahmad Effendi (kau Yuz Aghashi), Sulaiman Effendi Agha Yuz Bashi) (

and Umar Effendi (Yuz Bashi), the principal officers, with 25 subalterns and 194 rank-and-file

came

in boats

Akbar,

and were taken on board the

while

the four

Sharif with their followers,

men, were also embarked. it

was arranged

that an

emissaries

the

who numbered fifteen To

facilitate

matters

inventory should be

prepared of such personal effects of as

from

my followers

were not absolutely necessary, and the prop

erty

was then handed over

for safe

custody to

the jointcare of the Consul, the Vice-Consul, and

Ahmad Bhopal.

Basuni who receives an allowance from

A sum

of Rs. 5,000 to

meet transport

and other charges was deposited with the ViceConsul.

Hafiz Abd-ur-Rahman, Superintendent

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. State

of the

ed Leader

235

who had been appoint

Stables,

the Caravan, was instructed to

of

was transfer

see that the property in question

red to a secure place under the directions of the British Vice-Consul

who had been

entrusted with

He was

Rs. 5,000 to meet incidental expenses.

moreover ordered to leave some

our troops

of

to guard the property and, after defraying the

necessary expenses in connection with transport

and

freight, etc., to

decision to

return to Jedda

after visiting the holy Medina,

to

his

companions

This measure was taken in view of

to Mecca.

my

march with

proceed

to

via

and from there

With regard

Mecca.

Yembu to

the

Akbar the agreement was, that she should bring us as far as Yembu and on the return journey take us back therefore

the

to

India

British

from

Jedda.

Consul called

When

on me,

I

requested him to kindly arrange for a whole

me from Yembu to Jedda on my He promised to make the neces voyage.

steamer for return

sary arrangements and let

me know

the result.

must acknowledge the courtesy and kindness of Mr. Devey and thank him for his help and co-operation. In

this

connection

I

236

THE STORY OP A

As the Consul, the

Vice-Consul, and the

Governor had called on me, courtesy required a return

visit.

difficult

for

It

me

however,

was,

as a traveller

civility in

person.

zada Hafiz

Muhammad

Bahadur,

and

exceedingly return the

to

accordingly sent Sahib-

I

Ubaidullah

Sahib

Muhammad

Mian

Sahibzada

Khan

Hamidullah Khan Sahib Bahadur, to pay the return visit on my behalf. They were met on the

way by

also

the Consul and the Governor

who

When

accompanied them back to the ship.

these gentlemen took leave of us to return to

two Sahibzadas accompanied by Sardar Bahadur Mirza Karim Beg, the second-

Jedda, the

in-command Muhammad Hussain

Khan and

a

the

suitable

escort,

proceeded

where they returned the

and the Vice- Consul. Consul

the

A

detachment

of

town

of the Consul

Subsequently

returned

they

Governor.

visits

to

visit

with the of

the

Turkish troops on

guard at the Government House saluted the Sahibzadas according to custom. The Turkish equivalent for the term

Salam

dar.

"Present

arms

1

is

While the Sahibzadas and their

suite were at the

Government House, the Turkish

K

I

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

237

troops for the escort were on their ship

in

to our

At the Governor

order.

marching

way

s

request the Sahibzadas inspected these troops

which marched past.

Muhammad told

me

Later on Sahibzada Hafiz

Ubaidullah

Khan

Sahib Bahadur

that the training of these troops did not

seem to him

good and regular as that

as

of the

Indian army, because they did not keep step as trained

a

ought to do.

force

Sahibzada returned to the

After this the

ship.

At noon, on Friday, the 29th

November

1321 Hijra (20th

put to

sea,

and

reached the 1st

Shaaban

1903), our steamer

after a twenty-four hours

port of

Eamzan.

of

On

Yembu

at

voyage midday on the

our leaving Jedda the wind

was so strong and the sea so high that there was almost a storm. The passengers began to show Sahibzada Mian Hamidullah

signs of sickness.

Khan

Sahib Bahadur

from fever and

On of

our

this

reaching

was moreover suffering added to my anxiety.

Yembu, we found that

departure

and

arrival

notice

had not been

received, so there were no arrangements for our

reception,

etc.

At the sight

of

our steamer,

THE STORY OP A

238

however, the Turkish

officers

promptly mustered

and had a guard. of-honour drawn

their troops

up on the shore. Saadatlu Mustafa Effendi Farhat Pasha, the Governor of Yembu, also

Owing

appeared.

to indisposition

we made up our minds not evening.

Pasha, informing that, as before

we

to land

till

sent word to

I

Accordingly

and fatigue

it

Farhat

would be some time

he

disembarked,

might allow the

troops to go back to their lines to save

The

from discomfort.

the

troops, however,

them

would

not listen to such a proposal and replied that, being

the

commanded by

Sultan

to

attend upon

remain on the spot their

services

and that

I

their august Sovereign

to

need

till

such time as

escort

not

me, they would

me

to

I

required

my

abode,

think of their

incon

venience.

The deputation which had preceded us to Medina with Maulvi Azam Husain had reached its

destination with the result that a

irregular people

The news

came from Medina

of our visit

to

swarm

of

meet

us.

had induced the following

gentlemen from Medina to repair to

Yembu

to

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. receive

and they had been awaiting our

us,

month:

arrival for a Shaikh

239

Muhammad

Hawala, accompanied by 15

Said

Sayyads, besides attendants.

Abd-ur-Rahman

Shaikh

of

Ilayas,

Medina,

with

13

Juhaina,

with

18

Sayyads, besides attendants. Sharif Sayyid

Abdullah,

Amir

of

Sayyads.

Shaikh Nissar Zahiri, with 15 Sayyads. Shaikh Khalf, brother of Shaikh Khalil, the headman

of

Ahamida, with 20 Sayyads.

These gentlemen came on board the ship

and

to visit me, for

my

after salutation

health plied us with questions concerning

our voyage.

It being the first

these people asked whether

To

fast.

this question

was given from

and enquiring

as,

I

day of Ramzan, was keeping the

an answer in the negative

being travellers, we were exempt

fasting.

Sayyid Ali Tahir Vatri, who has been in receipt of an allowance

from the time

of

my

from the Bhopal State mother of blessed memory,

had brought a litter for my conveyance. As I had my own litter with me there was no occasion for this one.

kindness

thought

Out

which it

of regard,

had

however, for the

prompted

this

offer

I

a pity that his litter should not be

THE STORY OF A

240

was kept for the use of my son Sahibzada Mian Hamidullah Khan Sahib Baha used;

dur.

so

Ail

it

the

while

that

these

personages

remained on board the ship I conversed with them through Maulvi Azam Husain, who acted as interpreter,

on the subject

of the security of

the journey lying before me.

Maul vis

Azam

Husain,

Zul-fi-kr

Ahmad,

Inayatullah, and Shukri ErTendi were already at

Yembu, where they had rented

house

a

for

Us. 600 near the sea coast,

The time now came

for us to land.

A

parda-

boat arranged by the Captain of our ship under the supervision of Sahibzada Hafiz

Ubaiduliah

Khan

Muhammad

Sahib Bahadur, was brought

to the side of the ship.

I

and Shahryar Dulhan

Sahiba took our seats in the

covered

part of

the boat while the other part was occupied by the

Muhammad Mian Muhammad

Sahibzadas Hafiz

Khan

Khan

Sahib,

Sahib, and Major

Mac watt.

Ubaiduliah

Hamidullah

As we reached

the shore, the port battery fired a salute of 21

guns and the

Turkish guard-of-honour drawn

up along the shore presented arms. My travel ling palanquin was now brought JEorward and I

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

got into

it

the

raised

help of some

with the

palanquin

men and conveyed

other

The bearers

with Shahryar Dulhan.

us to the door of the

house where we took up our quarters.

The Officer-in-Charge

of the

Turkish troops

Muhammad

escorting us told Sahibzada Hafiz

Ubaidullah

Khan

Sahib Bahadur, that in accord

ance with Turkish military custom for

by the troops to

afterwards.

take

suggested therefore that I should

some place whence I should be to review them after which they would

my

able

He

seat at

So

proceed to their quarters.

windows

at one of the

place I was able to entire

fashion.

troops

When

military one,

which

I

posted myself

From

of the house.

command

a

reviewed

I

the salute

is

this

view of the in

military

not a formal and

and a person makes an individual

salute, he does

it

breast, kissing the it

was usual

who had been formally review them immediately

a Chief or Noble

saluted

it

to its brow.

hand upon his the hand, and raising

by placing palm

This

of

mode

does not entail bowing,

is

his

of salutation,

which

very graceful and

practised in the courts of the Turkish Nobles. 16 PH

is

242

THE STORY OF A

On

occasion Major

this

Mac watt made

a

probably at the instance of our

stirring speech,

Supreme Government. The import of this ora tion was that every step taken by the Turkish

Government

promote the comfort of Her Highness the Begam would tend to cement the to

relations

friendly

existing

between

two

the

In reply, the Turkish officers reassur

powers.

ingly observed that they would do their best to serve the

Begam and make every

to save her from

Although

all

possible effort

inconvenience.

my own

troops were sufficient for

guard duty, yet a Turkish guard was detailed for the

purpose as a special mark of distinction.

Mustafa Beg, known as Farhat Pasha, sent a some gift consisting of water from Medina and

pomegranates and dates, which

I accepted.

The next day Major and Mrs. Macwatt turned to Jedda in the Akbar. I stopped

Yembu

re

at

days to make arrangements for transport and conveyance. The Sharif s emis saries now began to demand money to meet their for five

expenses.

They were asked to draw up

from which lows

:

(1)

it

a

appeared that they were as

Sharif

Ahmad bin

Mansur,

(2)

list

fol

Sharif

243

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Abdullah,

(3)

Hobbash,

(5)

Shaikh Darwesh, Shaikh Umar,

Hafiz, (7) Shaikh

Hazim,

(8)

(9)

Muhammad-ul-Uwaidi,

(11)

Mubarak,

On

(6)

Shaikh-ul-

(4)

Shaikh Abd-ul-

Sulaiman Hamasi, Ab-ul-Khair,

(10)

(12) eight attendants.

the 3rd

Ramzan

I

addressed a letter to

Izzatlu Farhat Pasha, Governor of

Yembu,

of

which the following is a translation You are aware that we are anxious to start :

c

for

Medina at an early date, but cannot obtain hope that you

I therefore

camels.

will

kindly

exert yourself with a view to procuring for us

200 camels on

must

the caravan

Tuesday

out

set

on

is

its

urgent as

journey on

next."

Sahibzada

Khan

The matter

hire.

Hafiz

Muhammad

Bahadur

Sahib

told

me

Ubaidullah

that he

had

heard from a reliable source that there were any

number

of

the Sharif

camels in the neighbourhood, but that s

emissaries were purposely delaying

in order to be able to

benefit of the

ance,

make

camelmen

bargain for the

of their

and to make money

therefore asked for a

a

own acquaint

for themselves.

number

of

We

camels far below

our requirements and he allowed the people of

THE STORY OF A

244 our caravan to for hiring

camels

make

camels.

their

own arrangements

The consequence was that

through the Sharif

hired

s

emissaries

cost us 12 riyals a-piece, whereas 9 riyals

was

the average charge in the case of camels hired

by our people

Owing

privately.

of the Sharif s emissaries over

was possible that the

to the influence

the Bedouins,

latter

it

might repudiate

their bargains, yet this did not

happen because

by an agreement once

the Arabs always abide

made.

Owing to the unexpected delay camels we could not leave Yembu

Ramzan

or,

in procuring till

the 5th

according to the local date, the 6th.

In the meantime 208 camels were hired and, as

we meant

to return

by the same

route, such

belongings as seemed superfluous were entered a

in

list

and

left

behind at

Yembu

in

safe

custody.

N.B. at

My

dates will

Yembu, which were

now

follow those kept

those employed

till

our

arrival at Medina.

On Thursday, the

caravan

occasion

the

the 7th Ramzan, at 12 noon,

started

from Yembu.

Turkish commander

On called

this his

245

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

and made them a

to attention

soldiers

to the following effect "My

of

Bhopal

land to

speecli

:

You know that the Begam Musalman, who has visited your

children,

a

is

perform the pilgrimage.

behoves

It

you, therefore, to exert yourself to the utmost to

obey, and guard her.

serve,

Sultan

command.

s

will

is

your

See that you acquit your

task entrusted to you in a proper

selves of the

manner.

This

the

By

you your Master and

shortcomings

slightest

incur the displeasure of

bring dishonour on your community."

The

Yembu

following

from

us

escorted

troops

:

Arrivals from Medina

...

...

Subaltern

...

...

3

...

...

50

officers

Rank and

file

...

53

Troops from the Yeinbu garrison in addi tion to artillery

Bim Basbi

...

63

...

...

...

Sagh Qala Ghasi

...

...

1

Subaltern

officers

...

...

9

Rank and

file

...

1

52

232

Total

had been keeping the fast up to this date. At about 4 P.M. our caravan halted at Mahsali I

which is

lies

on the top

only one well here.

of Its

a high

water

hill. is

There

muddy,

THE STORY OF A

246

and unpleasant to the taste, though not We had provided ourselves with to the smell.

reddish,

an ample store used by both

of

water at Yembu, which was

man and

The road

beast.

lies for

the most part across a level plain occasionally interspersed

with rocky

After

boulders.

the

caravan had halted, the Turkish escort posted themselves

and formed a cordon round the were posted at

Sentries with muskets

camp.

distances of ten paces with their backs to the

caravan, and provided with several rounds of ammunition. I with Shahryar Dulhan and the

two Sahibzadas was accommodated which had been pitched 9 P.M. fired,

for

in a tent

the purpose.

At

according to military custom a gun was after

allowed

which

to enter

no the

from outside was

one

We

camp.

passed the

night with great tranquility and comfort.

we were on the march, my

litter

by the Bhopal State troops

;

When

was surrounded

while the Turkish

formed the outer guard. Every four or minutes the Turkish bugles sounded.

force five

On

Friday, the 8th Eamzan, at 7 A.M., our

caravan set out in the same order and with the

same precautions

for safety as

on the previous

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

day

The march was long but the

march.

s

Some

lay across

the plains traversed

of

Muhammad

Sahibzada

Bahadur

our route

of

greater part

247

a plain.

us

by

Khan Sahib

Ubaidullah

as eminently suited for polo

if

only brought his polo sticks with him.

when galloping

place the Sahibzada

three wild Bedouins

struck

he had

At one

his horse

who answered

met

Salam

his

alaikum (Peace be to you) with walaikumi-s-

Salam (And on you be peace), and offered him cheese. The Sahibzada bread, onions, and began to eat these, as in Arabia a refusal to accept

resented

is

hospitality

While he was eating the Bedouins said is

good

to

as

bread

an

one of the

Allahu-latif unbi-ibadihi his

The

servants).

insult.

"

(God

Sahibzada

promptly added the remaining portion of the verse

Yazruku

:

man yasha wa

huwa-1-

(He feeds whomsoever He wishes He is the Mighty and the Great). They said "What! are you a Hafiz" (one who can Kawiyyu-1-Aziz ;

repeat the :

Quran by

God be praised,

put dates

I

am

rote),

and he answered

a Hafiz.

before him.

His hosts then

While the

Sahibzada

was there, the people wondered where he had

248

THE STORY OF A

gone and there was much cause he appeared a

him

little later.

in a friendly

for anxiety

Hilmi EfTendi warned

manner that Arabia was not

India, where he could

wander about

that there were

perils

freely,

but

and he ought to be The Sahibzada said that he had been

careful.

very

till

kindly

many

treated

by these

people, but he

would be cautious in future.

At

9 P.M.,

wecamped

were posted as usual.

sounded and the sentries while the others took

Guards

atBir-i-Said.

At gunfire the trumpet on duty mounted guard,

off their

belts

and went

Bir-i-Said

came

to

to sleep.

The Shaikh of visit

and asked

for a present.

He was

pay a

told that

we should return by the same road and see about it then. While the Shaikh was present, Maulvi

Azam Husain

said,

tranquil and easy.

"Her

journey

Highness

Last year when

I

is

came here

was a great fight and seven men of my caravan were killed." After the Shaikh had there

gone, the Sahibzada told the Maulvi that he

should not have said this in his presence and so

encouraged him to do as before.

The

Maulvi

249

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

excused himself,

meant to thank God

We On

had simply His bounty and mercy. that he

saying for

passed a safe and comfortable night. the 9th Ramzan, we started in the early

morning from through a

hilly

mountains.

Our whole route lay tract and in front we saw high

Bir-i-Said.

The road, however, wound

so

much

that we escaped climbing as the mountains did

not form one mass, but were separated.

noon

after crossing a plain

of date-palms.

bed

The

soil

of a dried-up tank.

of fresh water.

we saw

Before

a fertile garden

was exactly like the There was also a spring

Near sunset the caravan halted

at the Ain-i-Hamra.

This

is

a small patch of

ground surrounded by hills, where there are dategroves, a mosque with mud walls, and a canal. There

is

with 50 Turkish troops Here are the tombs of

also a small fort

and a

little

Abbas

(the

village.

Prophet

s

cousin) and certain other

holy persons, which were visited by most of the

members

of the caravan.

When we saw how

green and fresh the place looked, we thought

we would

halt here for a day, but at 8 in the

evening we heard gun-shots in Sharif

Ahmad-ibn-Mansur

all

received

directions.

a

letter

THE STORY OF A

250

Bedouin Shaikh saying,

frorn a

If

your people

Khan, he promis

are of the family of Kalb-i-Ali

ed to pay us Rs. 500 a year to keep the road clear,

on

and

word.

returning

You pay If

suitable

present.

the

and give a promise

it

you are not

future.

valley

for the

of his

family, give us a

we

are assembled at

If not,

Huzaifa and

of

broke his

India

to

will

not allow the

caravan to proceed to Medina without a fight." A letter in similar terms was received by Abu

Jud Madani, who handed

Muhammad

Ubaidullah

it

to Sahibzada Hafiz

Khan

Sahib Bahadur.

The Sahibzada spoke to me about the letter and said that he would consult Hilmi Effendi and see

what he

ingly and to the

He

said.

consulted him accord

had an answer

Sahibzada that,

if

sent,

but

I

suggested

by paying something

to these people a fight could be avoided,

be better to pay, for for

life.

But

age objected to

his

"property is

it

would

an atonement

manly resolution and cour

this.

So after consulting Hilmi

Eflendi he determined not to pay a pice, for there are such a

number

of families

these people that, however their greed

and groups of

much we might

would never be

satisfied.

give,

Appar-

251

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

ently the emissaries of the Sharif of Mecca were at the

bottom

of this plot.

my

Excepting myself,

members

Effendi, all the

and

sons,

of the

Hilmi

caravan were in

favour of payment and the letters received from the Bedouins caused

much

uneasiness through

out the camp.

When the gun-shots emissaries

They

were heard, the Sharif

s

were asked to explain the reason.

replied that they

had sent

a

man

to in

and added that probably the writers of the letters wished to show that if we did not pay they would certainly fight. A couple of hours later quire,

when

firing

had ceased

after

about ten shots

the emissaries sent a message that the slaves of

the Bedouins had been shooting in the

that there was no cause for alarm.

guns were again

fired,

hills

At

and

3 A.M.

but the reason was not

clear.

The Shaikh ed a feast for

of the

us,

Ain-i-Hamra had provid

sending a couple of fat-tailed

sheep and a quantity of uncooked rice which we accepted.

After these occurrences

we gave up

our plan of a halt in this neighbourhood.

soon as the

firing

commenced,

strict

As

precautions

252

THE STORY OF A

were adopted by our military guard.

The cor

don

to

of sentries called out

others

replied

"Karakul,"

Bedouins

Several

Hazirul.

which

were seen moving about during the night, and

appeared on enquiry that the Shaikh

had come to pay us a night in some agitation.

On

visit.

We

of the place

passed this

the 10th Kamzan, the caravan

i-Hamra

The dispositions

at 7 A.M.

my

litter

left

of the

Ain-

Tur

The imme

kish military guard were changed. diate escort around

it

was increased and

the Turkish troops protected the

caravan on

The duty was performed with much bravery and intelligence. The Turkish advance

all sides.

guard climbed every dangerous hill, cleared the road, and signalled with flags after which the

Some

caravan moved forward.

top

men standing

were so high that

tains

looked

saries

like

dwarfs.

had sent men on

moun

of the

in

The

Sharif

advance to

at the s

emis

find out

where the Bedouins had assembled and to let them

know

that

rewarded,

would be they did not fight they and that, if they fought, the Sharif if

would be very angry. The men returned at 11 o clock and stated that the road was quite safe and

253

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

no one was disposed to

This statement

fight.

the caravan, but the Turkish escort

reassured

do their duty with their usual

continued to valour.

At

number

o clock a

1

seen climbing the Khif fly

One

from above.

bullet

Bedouins bullets

came

was the Sharif

s

emissary

knocked over by the

my

litter

A

no one was injured.

Khan

Behind him

camel which was

bullet.

too,

began to

Ubaidullah

s

were

quite close to

hair-breadth escape.

a

came near

and

Muhammad

Sahibzada Hafiz

who had

hill,

of

A

few

but by God

bullets s

mercy

Turkish guard at once

climbed the heights and, though the Bedouins

had already

fled,

This

same

the

is

they restored hill

full

confidence.

on which the Bedouins

frequently attacked the Prophet (Peace be upon

The Hamidah clan had engaged in a As long as there severe fight here last year.

him

!

)

was danger, the Turks maintained tions.

When

passed,

dangerous

zone

they descended from the

happily, and litter to

the

inform

the

me

full

precau

had been hill

singing

Sahibzada approached

my

that the Turkish troops said

that there was no more cause for anxiety.

I

THE STORY OF A

254 sent

Hilmi Effendi and thanked him, his

for

soldiers,

and His Majesty the Sultan, to which

he replied,

"Your

Highness

is

a lady of distinc

Ruler of the Bhopal State which

tion,

Government.

tected

by the

been

repeatedly enjoined

British

is

We

to safeguard

pro

have

Your

Your Highness must therefore look upon us as your household servants, and the soldiers as your children. They will serve and Highness.

obey Your Highness with the same zeal as your

own

troops."

There

is

a small deserted

with springs of water in places. of the hill is a date-grove

No one

brook.

Bedouin

On

village

the summit

watered by a running

lives in the village.

I

ordered

a short halt here as the heat was intense, fatigue

upon the troops, and the hour of afternoon prayer had come. The camels carry was

telling

ing water were

given

to

plentiful

moved forward and

orders were

provide the Turkish troops with a drink.

The beasts

of

burden were

taken round to the springs but the water was not good.

Khif

is

a hamlet with houses of

three storeys and a barley market.

two

or

Our caravan

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

did not stop at this place

;

255

but the camelmen

bought a quantity of barley for their camels as they went along. Towards sunset we halted in

Near a deep well stands a It was garrisoned by fifty Turkish troops.

a broad sandy plain. fort

our intention to pass the night within the tower, but the Commander of the force said that the

next day

s

march would be retarded

Bedouins laid siege to the the

way.

He

accordingly

fortress

if

the

and barred

suggested

that

it

would be well to camp in the open ground. All approved this view and the caravan camped maidan.

Every precaution was taken The name of the place to safeguard the camp. where we halted was Bir-i-Abbas (the well of in

the

Abbas).

The

local

Muhammad

Shaikh informed Sahibzada Hafiz

Ubaidullah

that

the neighbouring

clans

had come

in

Khan Sahib Bahadur chieftains

with

their

and the night would there

fore be one of danger.

He

further pointed out

men who had

fired

on the caravan also

that the

accompanied these chieftains to ask for a The Sahibzada asked what they meant present.

by demanding a present when they had

fired

THE STORY OF A

256

upon our caravan. the leaders ask replied that he

"Trouble

us for

and

his

is

money."

on foot and

The Shaikh

people were our faithful

and devoted servants and well-wishers and as

To

such deserved a present.

Sahibzada

this the

was true he should produce The Shaikh replied that those who had fired. rejoined that

the

if

this

men who had

who had sworn

fired

to

were only a few slaves

fire

on

a

caravan or to

was only in ful At filment of this oath that they had fired. this juncture Ahmad-ibn-Mansur (one of the divorce their wives and that

Sharif

s

emissaries)

it

intervened with a request

had promised these men to get them present of Es. 4,000 on condition that they

that, as he

a

made no

disturbance,

regard for him the

he hoped that out of

sum would be paid

to them.

Considering that these people were dwellers in

Arabia and as such deserving of alms, however unbecoming their behaviour may have been

towards

us,

in question.

we agreed to pay them the amount Ahmad-ibn-Mansur was entrusted

with the task of distributing the money among the various claimants. at the distribution.

A curious

quarrel arose

Some complained that

their

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

257

names had not been entered among the Shaikhs and that they had thus been insulted, while asserted that

others

their

were

clans

more

numerous than others and they had received too little

;

in short, they were all

ready to

fight

among

themselves.

On

the

Monday, the llth Ramzan, we left Bir-i- Abbas. The arrangements morning

were the same as on the

for protection

ous

day

diligence

march and the same

s

travelled

by God

and

security.

When

activity

and

near a well.

Ubaidullah

mercy in perfect safety we had gone a little way, s

a place between

at

Bir-i-Abbas

and

group of

babul trees

Here Sahibzada Hafiz

Muhammad

Bir-i-Darwesh

me

previ

continued to be displayed as before.

We

we came

of

across

a

Khan approached my

litter

that a Military Officer with three

troops and artillery to receive me.

and told hundred

was coming from Medina

After informing me,

he rode

forward with Sardar Bahadur Major Karim Beg

and Captain panied him.

;

Muhammad Husain Khan accom When they came up to the force and

had met the advancing column, and exchanged the usual

PH

civilities

with the

Commanding

Officer,

17

258

THE STORY OF A

the Sahibzada suggested that as

my

cavalcade

was very near and would arrive at the spot in a short time, the troops should be drawn up accord ing to custom where they were so as to be ready for

Her Highness

Sahibzada

3

s

Acting upon the

reception.

suggestion, the Turkish

Commander

halted and drew up his troops with the artillery close by.

The place where the troops were met sandy plain with babul

trees.

When my

is

a

litter

reached this spot, the guard of honour presented

arms and the

artillery fired a salute of 21 guns.

Owing to the large number and camels our caravan was the salute was fired,

it

of

camp

followers

a mile long,

and

as

struck us that the noise

might cause those in the rear to suppose that we were attacked by Bedouins and so raise an alarm.

The Sahibzada, horse men to

therefore, thoughtfully sent a few

tellfche

people ihat we had been

met

by a welcoming force and that a salute had been Confusion had, how fired and to reassure them.

commenced

ever,

and

all

before

the horsemen arrived

hurried in our direction, anxious to take

part in the supposed fray with the Bedouins.

While

this

was going on, the messengers galloped

259

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. to the spot, stopped the confusion,

the anxiety of the

The strength

and removed

women. of the force

from Medina was

as follows, exclusive of the artillery escort

Bim Bashi

Chief Military Officers

Kul Aghashi

1,

Subaltern

1

.

Officers

Bank and

2

.

.

.

.

nightfall the

6

.

150

file

TOTAL At

:

158

caravan halted at the

Bir-i-

Darwesh and the Turkish troops made the usual arrangements for guards and patrols.

On Tuesday, Darwesh

Bamzan, we

the 12th

Although our road lay

in the morning.

across hilly country,

we

travelled

and favour unmolested and nothing occurred on the

As we approached from the top of the

left Bir-i-

in

way

by God

mercy perfect safety, and to alarm us.

Bir-i-Ali, hill

s

we found that

before us a glimpse of

the holy Medina was visible.

The people

of the

caravan on learning this ran eagerly towards the mountain and the scene was one which I shall

remember

each

man

as long as I live.

The

sight of

hurrying towards the top of the

hill

in

260

THE STORY OF A

pious enthusiasm to obtain a glimpse of the city to visit culties,

which he had gone through so many diffi and giving vent to the rapture which fill-

ed his heart at the holy view by loudly calling out Darud (invoking peace upon the soul of the Prophet) was most exhilarating and instructive. It is

worth mentioning that

in the plain

through which we passed there was a very sweet smell

which delighted our

senses.

At some distance from of the holy city

Bir-i-Ali a clear

was obtained, and most

followers dismounted as a

We

came

frequently

mark

view

of our

of reverence.

across small straggling

ham

and at one place saw a masonry mosque. At P.M., we halted at Bir-i-Urwah for the night.

lets

9

As

this place

was in the outskirts

of

Medina-

only a couple of miles from the holy city

zada Hafiz

Muhammad

Bahadur hastened

Ubaidullah

Sahib -

Khan

to visit the Prophet

s

Sahib shrine

at once, leaving at 10 P.M.

The Kazi, the Mufti, and

a large

number

of

the nobles and gentlemen of Medina came out to

meet me at Bir-i-Urwah.

by horses was

also

sent

A

by the

carriage

drawn

authorities at

261

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Medina

make

possible to in

suitable parda

could not myself use

I

it,

conveyance, but, as

my

for

A

it

was not

arrangements

it.

watch than usual was kept

stricter

this

and the Turkish military escort warned

night,

our party to be specially careful in view of the

proximity of a Kawafiz* encampment.

Wednesday, the calculations the

12th,

according to our

Eamzan

(2nd December

was the day on which we were to reach

1903)

Medina.

change

of

Our attendants were provided with a The camels clothing and silk turbans.

carrying

my

shawls.

At

Hafiz

or

13th,

travelling litter were decked with 8 o clock in the

Muhammad

dur informed officer in

me

morning, Sahibzada

Ubaidullah

Khan

Sahib Baha

that the Shaikh-ul-Haram (the

charge of the Holy Places) had sent his

son-in-law to

receive me,

and that the

latter

wanted to speak to me, I accordingly sent for him, and he took his seat outside my tent with

Sayyad Yasin, who acted *

Plural of

Itafizi

:

A

as

interpreter,

certain sub-division of the Shias of

while Kufa

so

called because

son

of

AH

they deserted ( Rifz -desertion, forsaking) Zaid the when he forbade them to revile and anathematize the

premier companions of the Prophet. In its secondary meaning the word has come to signify a heretic and is opprobriously applied by the Sunnis to the Shias-

THE STORY OF A

262 I

sat inside

exchanged delivered

behind a curtain.

courtesies,

a

message

After

the Shaikh

from

his

me

son-in-law

father-in-law

my

expressing his great pleasure at telling

s

we had

arrival,

and

that His Imperial Majesty the Sultan

had repeatedly telegraphed that no pains should be spared to provide for my comfort and enter thanked him and then he said that

tainment.

I

as

Safi

Sayyad

pleasure, the

had incurred the Sultan

(Sayyad

for

dis

Shaikh-ul-Haram did not think

advisable that I should take up his

s

Safi s) house,

my

it

quarters in

which had been selected

the purpose by the Sharif, and that,

if

I

should live there, the Shaikh-ul-Haram would ask to be excused from coming to pay his respects

In reply I said that

to me.

I

had come on a

pilgrimage to his country and that of the Sultan,

and

I

was the guest

well as of the

of the

Sharif,

both

Shaikh-ul-Haram of

whom

as

were His

Maj esty s Governors. For the present, therefore, I would live in the house selected by the Sharif, proved to be at an inconvenient distance from the sacred Haram, I would remove after but,

if it

four days to the nearer house which the Shaikh-

ul-Haram had

selected for me.

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

63

After 9 A.M. I left for Medina

accompanied

by Sharhyar Dulhan Sahiba and the Sahibzadas Hafiz Muhammad Ubaidullah Khan and Mian

Muhammad we saw It

Hamidullah

large bodies of

On

Khan.

the

way

men coming from Medina.

was generally remarked that the people

Medina were not their

to

city

was a

special

in the habit of

coming out

welcome any one, and that

of

of

this

honour done to the Begam

of

The Turks who were with me were only attendance upon my personal procession and

Bhopal. in

;

over and above their band there was also a band

The procession moved At about 11 A.M. fashion.

of slaves playing music.

on

in a

very stately

we reached

the

City gate,

called the

Bab-i-

Outside the gate I was received by

Ambariah.

His Excellency Izzatlu Hasn Muzaifar Pasha,

Muhafiz

or

Governor

Treasurer-General troops, a

guns was

of

band, and fired in

my

of

Medina,

the Sacred artillery.

honour.

A

and the

Haram

with

salute

of 21

I then entered

which had already been pitched to receive me and the Sahibzadas, and it was here that 1

a tent

received the nobles of Medina.

The following

the speech which I delivered on the occasion

:

is

264

THE STORY OF A

GENTLEMEN, owe unnumbered thanks

"ESTEEMED I

God who, culties

removing from

in

which

deprived

my

my

to Almighty

path the

diffi

grandmother the

Nawab Sikandar Begam (who

has found a seat

in Paradise) of this great blessing, has fulfilled

long-cherished desire and given light to

my eyes

by the dust

of

the

my

At the

holy Medina.

same time

I

blessings of

heaven upon that beloved Prophet

invoke the choicest

to visit whose sacred

way with

My

tomb

and

acknowledgments

are

to His Imperial Majesty

perpetuate I

have come

the utmost eagerness

grateful

tality.

I

his

am

Empire)

me

all this

sincerity.

then

due

the Sultan (May

God

for his

cordial hospi

indebted to His Majesty for th?

excellent arrangements that have been

accord

and

peace

an

honourable

reception

safety and comfort.

made

to

and

to

provide for

my

sincerely to

thank His Excellency the Governor

of

I also

beg

Medina, the Shaikh-ul-Haram, and the other

learned men, spiritual leaders, and elders of the City

who have kindly taken

so far to

welcome me.

I

the trouble to come

cannot close

my remarks

without thanking the Senior Military Officers,

-65

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

the Subordinate Officers and the gallant Turkish

under

troops

me

who, in

them,

from Jeddah, Yembu, and

to this place

Darwesh, have

escorting

safely

toiled

Bir-i-

my

day and night to secure

comfort.

had heard

I

praises of the strenuousness

and vigilance of the Turkish soldiery and these have been more than confirmed by what I have These gallant troops displayed the

myself seen.

greatest activity in marching with our caravan

by day, and with the same untiring rounded and guarded

me

prised ever,

in the

was that

scaled lofty

having

in

it

What

behaviour of these troops,

sur

how

dangerous localities they quickly

and nearly

satisfied

at night.

zeal sur

inaccessible ridges, and,

themselves that

all

was

safe,

descended with equal ease to resume their march with the caravan.

Although certain thought

less individuals several

times fired on our party,

yet owing to the care taken by our troops no injury was caused and,

was not *

It

God be

praised, our party

any way hurt by their bullets. was also due to the kind attention

in

of

His Imperial Majesty the Sultan that the chief tains

and elders

of the several

Arab clans on

266

THE STORY OF A

way waited upon me, showed their readiness to assist me faithfully, and accompanied our party

the

throughout the journey.

and

all

who have been

holy journey and

I

am

indebted to one

of assistance to

I

pray

for

me on

this

your safety and

prosperity.

After this I

As

the City.

I

mounted

my

litter

and entered

reached the doorway of the Pro

mosque, the Shaikh-ul-Haram, IzzatluUs-

phet

s

man

Pasha, the Kazi, the Mufti, the Shaikh-ul-

Aghwath

Eunuchs) and the Shaikh-

(Chief of the

ul-Khutaba (Chief

of the Preachers)

as the door to receive me, it

was

my

came

as far

and asked me whether

to present myself at the

intention

sacred shrine immediately or later on.

As proper

parda arrangements could not be made at such short notice, and replied that I

I,

moreover,

felt fatigued, I

would then and there invoke peace

upon the blessed Prophet and go to my house, and that I would pay a visit to the holy tomb at some other time as there was no particular hurry about the

visit, for

we

followers of the holy Pro

phet invoked the blessings of heaven upon him

even from India.

I

then went to Sayyad

Safi s

267

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

house which had been selected for

by the Sharif

of

Mecca and stayed

Sahibzada Hafiz

Khan

my

Muhammad

residence

there.

Ubaidullah

Sahib Bahadur, after meeting the Shaikh -

ul-Haram

in the

Prophet

s

mosque, expressed a

desire to visit the interior of the

leum and asked

if it

was

Prophet

s

mauso

posssible for us to do so.

The Sahibzada knew that no one was permitted to reach the

blessed grave itself and he wished

therefore to

go asfar as the brass railings sur

rounding visit

that

it.

dakhili.

women

The people of Medina term this The Shaikh-ul-Haram answered

could, on no account, visit the place.

The Sahibzada, however, could go wear a long coat, and his

Turkish cap,

tie a

if

he would

white turban round

that being the dakhili dress.

The Sahibzada accepted

this condition,

and on

Eamzan, accompanied by Sardar Baha dur Mirza Karim Beg and Captain Muhammad the 15th

Husain Khan, he reached the holy place wearing the prescribed clothes.

Each had a candle

in his

hand and entered the blessed mausoleum where they fixed the candles in sockets and

The

Officer in

lit

them.

charge of the attendants presented

the Sahibzada with sacred relics

;

one wick,

and

268

THE STORY OF A

& small quantity

of the rosewater with

which

the sacred grave had been washed.

The accompanying photograph

the

will give

reader a clear idea of the structure of the holy

tomb.

Most

Sayyad

of the City notables called Sail s

The

house.

on me

at

Shaikh-ul-Haram,

however, did not come as the house was at a dis tance from the Sacred Precincts and there was

some

friction

between him and Sayyad

chief object in staying in

My

Safi.

Medina was to present

myself as often as possible at the holy Haram.

The distance a

s

my present

obstacle.

great

Sharif

of

abode, however, was

therefore

I

informed

the

move

to a

emissaries that I wished to

more convenient lodging and I asked them to let the Sharif know. They hesitated at first, but in the end telegraphed

my

the reply was delayed, after paying

I,

wishes to the Sharif.

As

on the 15th of Ramzan,

my respects to the holy shrine, moved

to a house near the Majidi gate of the Prophet

mosque. rented for

s

This house, which had already been

me by Maulvi Azam Husain,

at the

instance of the Shaikh-ul-Haram, was the prop erty of a

nobleman and had been endowed

as a

269

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

charity on condition that while the poor should

without charge, the well-to-do should

live in it

accommodation according to their At the back of this house was a build

for their

pay

means.

ing which was rented

my

of

A number

followers.

housed in

the accommodation

for

this building,

them were

of

while Sardar Bahadur

Karim Beg accompanied by

men took up

his

lodgings in the house of Sayyad Ilyas.

After

new house the Shaikh-

we had removed

to the

ul-Haram and the

ladies of his household visited

us from time to time.

OUR SOJOURN AT MEDINA, THE ILLUSTRIOUS. (May God Sayyad

increase

its

splendour!)

which

Safi s house, in

I

had taken

up my lodgings, was situated at such a distance from the Prophet s tomb that for three whole

On

could not pay a visit to the Holy Shrine.

I

days

the fourth

litter

day,

and reached

had made

however, it.

The

1

mounted

my

Shaikh-ul-Haram

excellent arrangements for the occa

eunuchs were permitted to be there were no men inside the shrine.

sion, so that only

present

;

The Haram is

kept open at

all

is

usually

closed at night, but

hours during the holy month of

THE STORY OF A

270

Ramzan.

I,

therefore, experienced no difficulty

The Pasha

in obtaining admission.

in charge of

the Haram, the Kazi, the Mufti, and certain other notables stood at the doorway to receive me. alighted from the conveyance clad in

and

after

salutations

exchanging

gentlemen entered

the Haram.

reached the holy tomb

Hammad

assisted

me

and to

my

I

a burqa,

with

these

Presently

I

guide

Sayyad

perform the

rites of

visitation.

Instead of returning to Sayyad San

s

house,

went on leaving the Haram straight to the house which had been rented in the neighbour I

hood

of the Majidi gate.

This house presented

that

the distinct advantage

I

was enabled to

perform the Isha (evening) service every night at the Prophet of the

my

s

mosque.

The Pasha

Haram was good enough

personal use a separate

other

women,

so that

I

in charge

to provide for

place

apart from

could spend as

much

time in devotion during the blessed month o f

Ramzan

as fate

On the day

had decreed

for

of our arrival in

me,

Medina we were

entertained at a dinner given by Sayyad

AH Zahid

Vatn, a Bhopal State stipendiary during the rule

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. of

my

late

271

mother who has found a seat in Para

The invitation had been given

dise.

in writing

so early as the 29th of Shaaban, 1321 Hijra, at

the time of our landing at

Yembu, and we had

communicated our acceptance of it in a letter, dated the 6th Ramzan. The dinner was after the Arab fashion and was given with

the usual

all

Arab ceremonies.

On Thursday,

the 14th

Ramzan, our party

was similarly entertained by Sayyad shall

describe

entertainment

this

Two rooms had been

in

neatly furnished.

Safi.

I

detail.

In the

centre of the rooms, which were elegantly car peted, was placed a low oval table around which

the guests took

their

seats.

Half a loaf of

leavened and buttered bread and a spoon were placed before each guest. stood servants with jars of

A

Behind the guests water and a towel.

napkin was spread over the knees

guest.

The

first

course,

European custom, consisted

according of

of

each

to

the

soup to which

each guest helped himself as he liked.

The used

plates were then replaced by clean ones and

meat cooked with kubuli (a

mess of

turnips, rice

plain

and gram

boiled rice,

pulse), brinjal

THE STORY OF A

272

and

curry, roast meat, stituted

the

similar other viands con courses.

succeeding

ended by a mouthful

of plain

The

feast

bread to which the

guests helped themselves in order to clean the

When

mouth.

washed

their

they rose from the table, they

hands with soap, drank

each went to his

own

coffee,

and

place.

During our stay in Medina the ladies of the household of the Shaikh-ul-Haram called on

me two

or three

dinner to which

my

times and entertained I

went with several

The dinner was

suite.

guests

Muhammad

at

ladies of

which

like that

I

In the male apartments

have just described. the

me

included

the

Sahibzadas

Muham

Ubaidullah Khan, Mian

mad Hamidullah Khan,

Hafiz

Sardar Bahadur, Major

Karim Beg, Captain Muhammad Husain, Mian Saadat Muhammad Khan, Mian Jalil Muham

mad Khan, Mian Ekbal Muhammad Khan, Mian AH Kamil Muhammad Khan, Mian Mahmud Khan and

a

number

of other persons of rank.

According to the custom here,

and a

special

dinner

regarded as a ban delicacy is a goat roasted

courses consisting of 12 quet,

a

is

273

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

whole and

filled

with richly cooked Biryani (a

description of Pilau).

At the time

of our departure

Muhammad

Nawab

Nasrullah

from Bhopal

Khan

Sahib

Bahadur had repeatedly requested me to buy for him a number of good horses for which Arabia

is

celebrated,

Muhammad

Hafiz

Bahadur request. for

Ubaidullah

reminded

frequently

On

horses

market.

and afterwards Sahibzada

reaching Medina

Khan me

Sahib

of

this

we looked about

but none could be had in the local

It

then

occurred

to

me

that

my

lamented husband, the Nawab Ihtisham-ul-Mulk Ali Jah,

was

in the

habit

from Najd where there I accordingly entrusted

with the

sum

is

of ordering horses

a specially fine breed.

Abd-ur-Eahman Khan and sent him with

of Rs. 7,000

Abd-ur-Rahman, the son

of

Ilyas,

to Shaikh

Abd-ul-Aziz ibn Rashid of Najd with instructions to purchase horses.

subject

was

also

A

suitable

addressed

to

letter

the

on the Shaikh.

These returned towards the middle of Ziqaad and brought a dozen horses. They also brought

many

cloaks and robes and two mares as presents

from Ibn Rashid who told PH

my men

that he 18

274

THE STORY OF A

would be glad give

him

if

the

sufficient

of

Begam

Bhopal would

funds to enable him to con

struct a railway in his territory.

The horses bought at Najd were of the most ordinary type, and it looked as if unlawful greed had played a great part in the purchase. I

had no object

for cultivating friendly relations

with Shaikh Ibn Kashid or any other Arab clan

and there was no opportunity for it. I, therefore, as soon as I saw the presents, told Sahibzada Hafiz

Muhammad return

Ubaidullah

all gifts.

Khan

Sahib Bahadur to

The Sahibzada also told me that

the horses imported from Najd were of very poor

and that a great deal of swindling had taken place. Sirdar Bahadur Major Karim Beg and Captain Muhammad Husain Khan said the quality

same

This added to

thing.

the gifts sent sent back.

sented to

my

irritation.

by Ibn-i-Kashid were accordingly

Of the twelve horses six were pre

Nawab Muhammad

Nasrullah

and three each to the Sahibzadas Hafiz

mad

Ubaidullah

Khan.

I

my

Khan

Muham

Khan and Mian Hamidullah

communicated

in writing to the Political

on

All

all

these circumstances

Agent at Bhopal, but

return there I came to

know that

the

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. letter

had

copies of

reached him.

not

reached him

It

probably

As a precautionary measure,

later.

all

275

addressed

the correspondence

to

that officer were forwarded to Bombay.

Eamzan Sahibzada Hafiz Muhammad Ubaidullah Khan informed me that On

the

the 28th of

Shaikh-ul-Haram and

Medina had told him custom,

standing

nobleman who

that, according to a long

every ruler of a country or

visited

was accordingly advisable that should call or he should do so on my

that

As

it

for several reasons

make me.

of

Medina paid a visit to Governor at the Government House, and

the

I

Governor

the

a

I

call,

He

I

either behalf.

could not personally

my

deputed

accordingly went

son to represent

to the

Government

House with due ceremony and the custom was observed.

My Medina

original intention

to

visit the

Mecca by land

was to proceed from in order that I

shrines on the way.

might

This intention

has been strengthened by the stormy weather

between Jeddah and Yembu. ingly asked British

Major

Consul

at

Macwatt Jeddah

I

to

not

had accord request to

the

charter

a

THE STORY OF A

276

steamer

for

venience to

In view, however, of the incon

me.

me

he had advised

me

that

the

journey by land would entail great hardships, and, as a matter of fact, he was quite right in his opinion,

land route.

and

I

had given up the intended

He presumably

did not speak to

the Consul on the subject for the same reason.

While

still

at Medina, I received

from the British

Consul, with reference to the conversation that

had taken place between us during my stay at Jeddah, a communication to the effect that the steamship Behara had been chartered to convey

me from Yembu

Jeddah on

to

my

return

journey.

On our way the Bedouins had given us much trouble, and while in Medina we heard Hamidah

were ready to fight and had declared that they would harass us on

that

the

our return journey. the

clan

Similar

Shaikh- ul-Haram

reports

who advised

reached

me

to

accompany the Syrian mahmal (sacred carpet and thereby secure my own for the Kaaba) comfort.

Accordingly I followed the

of those able to advise

programme

so

and so

as to wait

at

far

opinion

modified

Medina

for

my the

277

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. arrival of the Syrian

mahmal and

the caravan conveying

intimation

to this

British Consul

it

to

effect

to

accompany

Mecca by land. An was made to the

by telegraph,

but, owing prob

ably to an interruption in the wire, he did not receive

in time to

it

prevent

his negotiating

and

entering into an agreement with the owners of

the

Behara, a copy of which was forwarded

S. S.

In reply

to me.

I

changed

definitely

ments and

told the Consul that I

my mind

as to

had

my move

hoped that he would be easily able to cancel the engagement. As I did not receive tell

I

a reply to

my

letter, I

Consul that the

the

wrote again to

Vice-Consul,

whom

had promised to send to me, had not yet arrived and that it would be well that he should

he

come,

for, as I

was

in a foreign

country and had

no one to consult, the Vice-Consul would be

of

assistance to me.

On

the 23rd of

arrived

with

a

December the Vice-Consul

letter

from the Consul which

showed that the agreement about the steamer had not yet been cancelled. He moreover informed

me

that he had been sent by the

Consul to personally learn the reasons which

THE STORY OF A

278

had made me change my programme. I related to him everything that had happened and the rumours that were current.

him that the that

I

further

local notables were

of

told

opinion

we ought to accompany the Syrian caravan, the

that

daily

reports

were

terrifying

and

that from what the Bedouins themselves said in the

Haram it was clear

that their intentions were

The Vice-Consul was greatly per plexed and replied with much dejection and mischievous.

melancholy about

it

"Very

well, I will tell

but Your Highness

pensate the

I

ship-owner."

will

the Consul

have to com

answered that

I

had given notice in Ramzan and so the Consul must probably have informed the ship-owner. was now Shawal and he had not brought the so how could any compensation be due ? ship It

;

Moreover the steamer was the

payment

of

not

;

an indemnity was, therefore,

qujte out of the question.

Thereupon the Vice-

Consul said he would telegraph

and

forthcoming

to the Consul,

left for his lodgings.

A day or two previously

the Vice-Consul had

spread the rumour that the Bedouins were hostile After that he suddenly left withto him also.

279

PILGRIMAGE TO H1JAZ.

out letting

me know.

He used to

be given meals

from our kitchen and the meals continued to be sent to his place four times before his depar ture was brought to his

absence became

plexity as to

my

When at

notice.

known

it

caused

length

much

per

what the reason might be and the

idea naturally occurred to us that the Bedouins

him alone and unattended might kill him. A telegram was accordingly despatched to the

finding

had

British Consul saying that the Vice- Consul

without

left

notice.

An answer came

saying

that he had arrived safely.

The following is a copy of the correspon dence which took place on this subject :

Copy

dated Sehore, the 6th November 1903, from

of a letter

Major L. Impey, Political Agent Highness the Begam of Bhopal.

in

Bhopal, to

Her

an endorsement No. 4846, dated the 4th November 1903, from Captain GoodI enclose

ridge

forwarding a copy of telegram from the

Directors of the Khedivieh Steamship

Company,

Alexandria, in which the latter offer to convey

your Highness and suite from for

500.

enclosed.

A

Yembu to Jeddah

telegraphic pass for reply

is

also

THE STORY OF A

280

The

demanded seems

fare

Highness

be able to ascertain probably

will

Jeddah whether offer or not.

but your

high,

at

advisable to accept this

it is

In any case a reply to the Manager

might be sent direct. If this letter arrives in time I would suggest that the advice of the

Jeddah be taken.

British Consul at is

accepted

made

for

it

If

the offer

be necessary to have been

will

your Highness comfort.

I trust that the

journey has been made without

any inconvenience being experienced and that you and all your suite have enjoyed good health. had the pleasure of accompanying Nawab Nasrullah Khan on a visit to the Cruiser Argo I

naut at Bombay, an experience we both enjoyed.

saw

I

looked

fit

Jehan Begam yesterday, she and well, and I am sure could have sent Birjis

her salaams

if

she could

Please give

and

my

kind

my

salaams to the Sahibzadas,

Major and

to

regards

Mrs.

Macwatt. Copy

of

a

telegram

dated

Khedivieh, Indian Marine, Bombay.

Referring letter 4620.

seven days notice

will

November

4th

Alexandria, to

the

1903, from Director of the Royal

On

receipt

have pleasure

minimum

detail special

281

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

steamer proceed Yembu, convey Begam Bhopal and suite thence Jeddah five hundred pounds, also

if

desired prepared negotiate special steamer

convey

back Bombay.

latter

Forwarded to the

Political Agent,

continuation of this

in

office

dated 31st October 1903. with the telegram

is

letter

Bhopal,

No. 4761,

Reply pass received

herewith forwarded.

of a letter No. 4620, dated the 24th October 1903, the Egyptian Director of Marine.

Copy

to

Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal with her son and party leaves Bombay in the S. S. AJcbar

on the 30th

Yembu and land at Yembu

instant

for

The whole party will the first instance and after performing

Jeddah. in

intended pilgrimage to Medina return to

their

Yembu

and proceed thence to Jeddah. 2.

As the

Akbar

the latter voyage,

for

will I

shall be

formed whether suitable

made

for the

conveyance

party, together with their

from

and

Yembu

if so,

to

Jeddah

be

available

glad to be in

arrangements can be

Her Highness and luggage and live stock

in

on what terms.

not

of

one of your steamers,

282

THE STORY OF A

The party

3.

will consist of

about

10 1st class, including European lady. 10 2nd class.

230 3rd

class.

12 Horses. Please say whether

4.

you have a regular

steamers running from Suez to

line of

Jeddah and Aden,

if so,

I shall

Yembu,

be glad to be fur

nished with a programme of the same. Copy of a letter dated Suakim, the 26th November 1903, from Major Macwatt to Her Highness the Begain of Bhopal.

We Yembu to

hope that your Highness got away from without delay and that the journey

Medina

and back and the stay there

will

be accomplished as comfortably as possible. I trust that the Vice-Consul may be able to carry out his intention and join you at Medina, return

with you to

ing

Yembu and

as

he

Jeddah on the forenoon

of

would, no doubt, be of

We

reached

Jeddah

much

assistance.

23rd November after a very smooth passage such as

I

hope your

journey.

We

and he and

I

Highness

may have

in your

spent the night with the Consul

made complete arrangements

ship for the passage from It will be pleasing to

Yembu and

for a

Jeddah.

you to hear that we have

283

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Behara which

succeeded in chartering the

S. S.

the largest and best on the

Red Sea

roomy and comfortable

Traffic,

is

and

As the

in every way.

contract was concluded about an hour before

we

sailed,

tTeddah

;

had no time to write to you from

I

but the Consul, who has taken a great

deal of trouble in securing such a good ship and

on such favourable terms, promised to send you a copy of the contract. I trust it may have reached you safely and

meet

with

your

that the arrangements

Highness

s

approval.

Behara was formerly a man-of-war.

The

Mr.

knows the ship and has travelled

Devey on it, and

he says he

be

with

it.

is

He

sure

that you

will

pleased

has also promised to have a boat

ready for the disembarkation from the Behara

Jeddah on the 10th January, fitted up with Purdah, probably a steam launch.

at

In case the copy of the contract

may

not

have reached the following are the terms made between myself acting on behalf of your High

and Mr. N. Gallimberti, Jeddah. Behara to convey yourself (a) The S. S. and suite of about 260 persons and 12 horses from ness

Yembu

to Jeddah.

284

THE STORY OP A

(b)

for the

S.

S.

Behara to be in

Yembu

ready

above purpose between the 9th and 12th

January 1904. Copy

of a contract dated Jeddah, Arabia, the 4th

November

1903.

Between Major K. C. Mac watt, I.M.S., acting on account of Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal on one side and Mr. N. Gallimberti as Agent for the

Abbasieh Company

on the other It has (a)

of the

Daira Khassa

side.

been agreed as follows

Mr.

Gallimberti

abovenamed engages Behara to convey

to supply the S. S.

Bhopal and suite about 260 (two hundred and sixty)

H. H. the of

:

of

Begam

and 12 horses from Yembu

persons

to Jeddah. (b)

The

S.

Behara

S.

Yembu

ready

shall

have to be in

for the

above purpose

between the 9th and the 12th days of (c)

January 1904.

Major K.

C.

Macwatt,

I.M.S.,

engages that H. H. the

Bhopal

shall be

on

his part

Begam

of

ready to leave by

the abovenamed steamer between the

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

285

abovementioned (9th to 12th

dates

January 1904), and to pay journey

Yembu

Jeddah

to

for the

250 (two

hundred and

fifty pounds sterling) on the express condition that the Behara will take no more passengers,

besides H. H. the

Begam and

suite

as above. (d)

Demurrage on both 40

rate of sterling)

(e)

sides

is

fixed at the

pounds per day, commencing on the sterling

(forty

morning of the 13th January 1904. The ship shall be properly found and equipped as usual and

if

not provided

with a condensing machine, shall have a liberal supply of pure drinking-water. (/)

Payment

to be

arrival in

made

in cash

on ship

s

Jeddah before disembarka

tion. (g)

In case

it will

be decided that the 200

(two hundred)

Turkish soldiers who

accompanying Her Highness, have to come from Yembu to Jeddah by

are

the same steamer, together with other

Arab Shaikhs,

Sharifs,

etc.,

tempo-

THE STORY OF A

286

employed in H. H. s service, the Behara shall have to take them at the

rarily

rate of three shillings

and four pence

each.

Made of

in duplicate in

November

Jeddah

this

24th day

1903.

of a letter dated Jeddah, the 25th November 1903, from G. P. Devey, H. B. M. Consul, to H. H. the Begam

Copy

of Bhopal.

I

have the honour to enclose herewith a copy

of contract

made out

Major R.

Mac watt and

to

C.

provide

S.

S.

return journey trust the in every

Copy

of

for

will

Agent here

your Highness

Yembu

arrangements

to Jeddah,

s

and

prove satisfactory

detail.

Highness the

I

presence between

a Shipping

Behara

from

a letter dated

Agent

my

in

the 8th

Begam

of

December 1903, from Her

Bhopal to Major Iinpey,

Political

in Bhopal.

have the honour to acknowledge the receipt

of your letter, dated the 6th

November, enclosing

an endorsement No. 4846, dated the 4th

Novem

from Captain Goodridge. I truly regret the trouble to which Captain Goodridge was put ber,

in arranging with the Directors of the

Steamship Company.

I

Khedivieh

have given up the idea

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. of going to Mecca, via

237

Yembu and

have already given you a

brief

Jeddah.

I

account of the

treatment I received at the hands of the Bedou ins

on

They

to Medina

my way

fired at

me

;

me

pressed

me

shish and threatened

through to offer

Yembu.

them bakh

at every stage.

I

was

at length compelled to offer them bakhshish which

some

of

them

refused to accept, on the plea that

was a small sum and they followed me up to Medina in order to extort more.

it

You may

well imagine that in these circum

stances I could not hope to be safe and comfort able

if I

went to Mecca through Yembu.

I there

fore propose to travel along with the Syrian cara

van which proceeds to Mecca from Medina by the Sultani route. for

Mecca, that

week yet

Although it

is,

or so before the

it will

to travel

this

caravan starts

arrives at

Mecca only a

appointed

be very convenient and with

it.

this to His Britannic

I

late

date safe

of Haj, for

us

have already intimated

Majesty

s

Consul at Jeddah

and asked him not to arrange for the S. S. Behara which was going to be engaged by Major

Macwatt

for

250 and the Agent of the said

steamer has been wired a

refusal.

THE STORY OF A

288

According to the advice of the Shaikh-ul-

Haram

have sent a telegram conveying

I

thanks to H.

The Shaikhs

I.

Majesty the Sultan

act as they dictate.

in

my I

I fear

me

to

that in case of non-

disturb me, put obstacles

may

way, and break the peace en route.

am now

to abide

by

you that

Khan

Turkey.

place often compel

of this

compliance they

of

my

in their country

am compelled

was glad to hear from Jahan and Nawab Nasrullah

their wishes. Birjis

and

I

are both very well.

Both

my

Sahibzadas are well and send their

salaams to you.

There Copy

is all

well in

my

suite.

January 1904, from Her Highness Bhopal Major Macwatt.

of a letter dated 5th

the

Begam

of

to

Eeceived with much pleasure your letter from

Suakim.

hope you have reached England by a safe and pleasant voyage. I trust

I

now

after

that

you and Mrs. Macwatt

are both

enjoying

good health. I remained four days in Yembu, on the I fifth day I started for Medina on camel back. reached Medina after seven days.

we have

all

been so far

safe.

Thank God

Though escorted by

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

289

the Turkish soldiers the Bedouins gave us no end of trouble

the

on the way.

programme

I have, therefore,

my

of

changed

journey, so that I

may

be saved from any further annoyance at their

have accordingly decided not to go to

hands.

I

Yembu

but proceed direct to Mecca with the

which passes by the Sultani Tarik from Medina on camel back. The Sowari caravan

Syrian

of

H.

I.

M. the Sultan goes with Turkish soldie

It consists of

position it.

It

and

dignity.

and men

appointed date for Haj.

twelve

am

high

I

fear

days before the

have intimated

intentions to His Britannic Majesty

Jeddah and

of

The Bedouins greatly

ten or

starts

:s

caravan.

this

s

my

Consul at

waiting for the arrival of the

caravan in Medina.

had received from Mr. Devey a copy of the contract made out between you and the I

Abbassieh Steamship Company. say that

now

Yembu.

I

I

have

am

I

am

sorry to

not going to Mecca via

asked the British Consul to

cancel the arrangement

made with

the

Company.

Major Impey had also arranged for a ship through Captain Goodridge, but for the said reasons I have

asked him as well to cancel the arrangement. PH

19

THE STORY OF A I shall,.

however, leave Jeddah four or

five

days later than was previously intended, namely,

on 14th or 15th March

Medina and

shall

1904.

start

for

I

am now

at

Mecca with the

Syrian caravan by the middle of February next. letter will reach

my

Trusting

you before you sail

from England.

With

best wishes for yourself and Mrs.

my

Mac watt. of a letter

Copy

dated Medina, the 7th December 1903, from the Begam of Bhopal to His Britannic

Her Highness Majesty

s

Consul at Jeddah.

God be

last.

Wednesday journey from

in,

The

first

Yembu went

day threatening pour

I arrived

praised.

letters

but I paid

11 o clock in the night

of a gun fired on the

at

Medina on

two days

well.

On

of

my

the third

from Bedouins began to no heed to them. At

we twice heard the sound

hill.

Turkish soldiers who

had been on guard all round our party became more vigilant and ready to meet any event. No more firing was heard till 2 o clock in the night,

shots.

when

there were only three or four more

However, the night passed and we

on

our journey in the morning.

our

way

several gangs of Bedouins

set

We met

out

on

armed with

291

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

breech-loaders in the hope of getting bakhshish

The presence of the Turkish escort prevented them from doing harm, still they fired 11 times, and one of the or

otherwise

bullets

ullah

fell

mischief.

doing

close to the horse of

Khan who had been

Sahibzada Obaid-

riding behind

my

conveyance.

In the evening the Bedouins came

to intimidate

me

at

my

encampment, and

I

was

them something. Some of them accepted what I offered, and some returned compelled to

offer

the same, haughtily saying that

amount.

In short, they

throughout the whole

it

was a petty

annoyed me

greatly

route and

came up

Medina with me.

I

do not think

now on my way

to

Yembu when they me in every way. I

bent on

annoying

be safe are so

have,

given up the idea of going to Mecca,

therefore,

via

I shall

to

Yembu and

Jeddah.

I

propose to travel

along with the Shami Kafla (the Syrian caravan) which leaves Medina Sultan Tarik

through

for

Mecca.

Please so do not trouble yourself for

making any arrangement with the Steamship

Company bu

regarding

to Jeddah,

my return

and you

will

such arrangement which

voyage from

kindly break

may

Yem

off

any have been made.

THE STORY OF A

292 I shall

may have

be glad to hear of any cost that

been incurred in correspondence with the com

pany that the same may be defrayed.

Kindly

despatch the enclosed telegram with Pass. received

from Captain Goodridge, Director

it

the Royal Indian Marine,

my

approval

manager

of

as I

am

is

to

whom

the

they had also

Yembu

to

no more now required

not going by that way.

You

my

should notify

return voyage from

The steamer

Jeddah.

I

direct

disapproval

the ship with

my

settled for

or

of

Bombay, through Major

Impey, with the request that

L.

I

will

kindly wire to H.

I.

M. the Sultan on

behalf that I safely arrived at Medina under

the escort of Turkish troops. My reception by Shaikh- ul-Haram and Muhafiz Pasha was grand,, for

which

I

am

grateful to His Majesty,

avoid being troubled by Bedouins, to travel with of

be

mean now

Shami caravan under the

Turkish forces.

fore,

I

and to

escort

The Amir Haj may, there

instructed to

conduct

me

safely

to

Mecca along with the Syrian caravan.

you think proper you may also men tion how I was fired at by the Bedouins that If

surer measures

may

be taken to procure safety.

293

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

of a letter dated Jeddah, the 16th December 1903, from Mr. G. P. Devey, H. B. M. Consul, to Her Highness

Copy

the

of Bhopal.

Begam

have the honour to acknowledge receipt to day of your Highness letter, dated the 6th instant, and have cabled to His Majesty s Ambas I

sador at Constantinople details as to your safe arrival at Medina. I

am, indeed, sorry that the Bedouins should

have annoyed your Highness party on the road with turbulence and insolence, as this

custom too

often.

I trust

is

their

that during your fur

ther journeys in Hijaz no more inconvenience of this

kind

may

authorities

obviate

occur,

will

am

satisfied that local

take every possible

means to

it.

Vice-Consul Dr.

morrow

and

S.

M. Hussain

will start to

Medina to place his services at your Highness disposal, and perhaps it would be well for

that he should examine and discuss the proposal of not returning

by sea but accompanying the

Syrian caravan by

"Sultani

Tarik,"

which

will

leave Medina for Mecca after several weeks, a long

and

may

difficult

journey which,

it is

to be feared,

bring you fatigued to Arafat,

afford little time to see

and would

Mecca thoroughly.

THE STORY OF A

294

So I have decided not to take any immediate action for breaking off the arrangements

with the Abbassieh

S.

Company

S.

of

made

Egypt,

have received further telegraphic communications from Medina in about ten days until I shall

A

time.

showing the agreement made Behara to be at Yembu was sent

letter

for the S. S.

to your Highness a fortnight ago.

Your Highness s messages for H. I. M. the Sultan and appreciation of the courteous recep tion afforded by the authorities at Medina and 5

at

Yembu

being transmitted through the

are

proper channel. of a letter dated Medina, the 24th December 1903, from Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal to Mr. G. P. Devey, British Consul at Jeddah.

Copy

was glad to receive your letber of 15th instant, and write to thank you for the kind I

expressions of for

sympathy

therein conveyed and

your kindly despatching messages of fchanks

to H. T

M. the Sultan.

I.

am

Consul.

glad to learn of the arrival of the ViceI believe

gram why

I

you have

learnt from his tele

have decided to travel by land with

the Syrian caravan from Medina.

ed you a

letter

I

have address

on 16th asking you to break

off

295

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. the arrangements

made with the Manager

of S. S.

Behara so as to avoid payment of unnecessary demurrage, and

hope you have done the need

as I informed

you long before the arrival the steamer that I was not going through

ful,

of

I

Yembu. of a letter dated Jeddah, the 28th December 1903, from Mr. G. P. Devey, H. B. M. Consul at Jeddah to Her Highness the JBegam of Bhopal.

Copy

On

Vice-Consul Hussain

receipt of

gram recording your Highness

s

tele

decision to travel

by land with the Syrian caravan from Medina,

I

hastened to inform

s

the Abbassieh

Company

Agent that the S. S. Behara would not be needed at Yembu between the 9th and 12th proximo. Conversation ensued as to rescission of the contract signed here on the 23rd ultimo.

now

am

pleased to report that on the 26th instant

the Agent showed

lows

I

me

a telegram

worded as

fol

:

(Alexandria, Dec. 26). Gallimberti Jeddah

Begam Bhopal Ayant a

Jeddah par Behara.

dont proprietaires Princesse

etant

prefere voyager

Au

autres bateaux

lien

aspiraient

Yembu

a

cette

dame Musalmane

faveur,

qui sait que

296 le

THE STORY OF A

but de

la

Khassa de

S.

A.

Khedive

le

est

tranquillite confort et facilites des pelerin Musal-

mans

faisant devoir et nott-uniquement benefices

consequemment pour efcre agreable a la Princesse Khassa accepte resiliation contract refusant indemnite condition voyage effectue voie

terre.

Votre commission vous sera payee par Khassa

Communiquez exactement repouse resultat.

ecrite.

Envoyez

Hemsy Delegue

Obtenez

Princesse.

moi

cablant

paste,

de la Daire

Khassa."

ALLIMBERTI, v

Begam Bhopal having

Jeddah. S.

preferred

S.

Be-

hara to other steamers for voyage to Jeddah,

Musulman

being

princess

who should know

the desire of the Khassa of His Highness the dive is quiet, comfort, and assistance of pilgrims profit

;

fulfilling

their

in order to please

duty and

that

Khe

Musulman not solely

Her Highness Khassa

agrees to annul contract without

compensation

on condition her voyage be by land. Your Commission will be paid

you by

Communicate exactly Princess. Obtain written reply. Send by post, telegraphing result. Khassa.

Hemsi, Delegate of Daire Khassa.

297

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Your Highness the

company

is

requested to note that

rescind the contract without

com

pensation on the sole condition that the journey

from Medina be by land. of a letter dated Jeddab, the 25th February 1904, from N. Gallimberti, Agent to the Daira Khassa of H. H. Abbassieh Steamer," the Khedive of Egypt, Director of to Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal in Mecca.

Copy

"

I

have the honour to submit that in reply request of resiliation of the

to your Highness

contract entered into between Major

and me,

Mac watt

Agent for the Daira Khassa of His Highness the Khedive of Egypt for the convey ance of your Highness from Yembu to Jeddah

by the

as

S. S.

Behara, the Daira Khassa of His

Highness the Khedive has replied by the follow ing telegram. "

Begam Bhopal having pre Yembu, Jeddah by Behara in

(Translation) ferred travelling

stead of other steamers whose owners wished

such honour, Princess being Musulman lady who

knows that only object of Khedivial Khassa is rest, comfort, and facilities to Musulman pilgrims, performing doing a duty and not only

Consequently to

please

Princess

the

profits.

Khassa

THE STORY OF A

298

accepts resiliation contract refusing indemnity on

condition

Your

voyage be effected overland.

Commission

be paid by Daira.

will

Commu

nicate exactly Princess obtain written reply which

send post wiring

result. "Hemsy."

Copy

of a letter dated

Her Highness

the

Medina, the 3rd January 1904, from Begain of Bhopal to the British

Consul at Jeddah.

The Vice-Consul

me

Medina without

telling

or seeing me, I learn that he left four days

He

ago. I shall

I

H.

left

should have reached there by this time.

be glad to hear of his safe arrival.

have not yet received any reply from M. the Sultan regarding

I.

my

proceeding to

Mecca with the Syrian caravan about which I had asked you to wire. I have neither heard if

you have stopped the steamer from

Yembu.

Kindly

let

me know about

sailing all

for

these

matters and oblige. Copy

No. 4, dated Jeddah, Arabia, the 9th January Mr. G. P. Devey, H. B. M. Consul, to Her from 1904, of a letter

Highness the Begam of Bhopal.

have the honour to acknowledge receipt of your Highness s letter of the 3rd instant, and I

299

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

have also sent you yesterday a registered received from Major I

am

letter

Mac watt.

despatching one registered letter from

Major Impey and three others, also four tered and 18 ordinary letters

and your

;

regis

letter to

the Vali goes forward to-day.

Dr. Hussain returned safely and very quick ly

on the 3rd instant.

May

say that his presence was

He

his

kept

I

be permitted to

much needed secret

departure

here.

fearing

lest

Bedouins might prepare some mischief on the

way, but

I regret

that his announcement of the

abrupt departure had not reached your Highness

by the 3rd I

am

instant. also sorry that

two telegrams which

I

addressed to Medina on the 26th ultimo did not arrive as they

would have explained

the annulment of the case

you

will

ship

have received

s

fully as to

contract.

my

letter

In any

dated the

28th December confirming this matter with

full

details.

I

am

taking necessary steps for securing a

proper escort to accompany your Highness when

proceeding with the Syrian caravan from Medina

300

and

THE STORY OP A will

be able to send you further news very

soon.

During my stay in Medina, I received a telegram from Nawab Muhammad Nasrullah

Khan

Sahib Bahadur announcing the happy

news that a son and heir had been born unto him.

I

back

telegraphed

infant should be

in

that the

reply

named Habibullah Khan,

and,

regarding the joyful tidings as one of the bless ings

due to the sacred locality

my

staying, I poured forth

where

was

I

heart in gratitude

before the Almighty.

In the month of

Shaikh-ul-Haram and

my

his

wife

I

the

invited

to dinner

;

for

an acknowledged blessing. guests to Indian dishes which were

breaking the fast I treated

Kamzan

greatly relished

is

by them.

In the meantime a Baluch caravan arrived

from Yembu.

One

of

the

Baluch chiefs had

been murdered by the Bedouins,

five

party had been badly wounded, and

had received minor

inj uries.

men

of the

many others

This incident added

to the terrors of those of our people

who had

orders to start from Medina for Mecca via

Yembu.

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

The month

of

301

Eamzan which

for

us had

been a month of anxiety came to an end and the

The Id prayer is per At 7 A.M. the Sahibza-

day of the Id arrived. formed very early here.

Muhammad Ubaidullah Khan and Mian Muhammad Hamidullah Khan accompani Hafiz

das

ed by

all

the

prostrations.

our party proceeded to

s

As the mosque

such occasions, the I

of

mosque where they followed the prayer and performed the service of two

the Prophet

Kazi in

men

women

is

overcrowded on

could not attend

it.

too did not go but performed the service of

two prostrations in

When

my own

house.

the prayer was over, the friends of

the Shaikh-ul-Haram suggested to

the

zadas Ubaidullah and Hamidullah should pay the Id local custom.

their usage,

call

on him as

Sahib-

that

this

they

was the

They answered that, according to when the Shaikh-ul-Haram called

upon me, they would pay a return

visit to

him.

At 9 A.M. the Muftis Shafai sects and the

panied by the the Id

call.

of

the Hanafi and

Shaikh-ul-Haram accom

interpreter

Sayyid Yasin paid

The Shafai Mufti,

in pursuance of

THE STORY OP A

302

the local custom recited an ode eulogising the

whom

Prophet (on

be peace

!)

and describing

The concluding part

the Id festival.

of the

poem

evidently consisted of a few verses of prayer, for as the Qazi recited

Amen.

The Fatiha

was then read of

me

mad

them the persons present

to call

after

said

Chapter of the Quran)

(first

which

my

visitors

took leave

on the Sahibzadas Hafiz

Muham

Khan Bahadur and Mian Hamidullah Khan Bahadur in the men s quarters. Ubaidullah

Customary refreshments khurma (a preparation

in the shape of shir of milk

and

and

vermicelli

sweetened with sugar and enriched with almonds, pistachios,

and dried

were

dates), coffee, etc.,

They ate a little of them The Sahibzadas Ubaidullah

placed before them.

and went away. and Hamidullah then proceeded on my behalf, by way of a return visit, to the Government

House where the

Shaikh-ul-Haram

and

Muhafiz Pasha (Governor) were present. Turkish garrison were

drawn up and

as

the

The the

Sahibzadas arrived the troops presented arms.

The band

anthem

at the

"God

same time played the national Save the

Sultan."

They then

returned to their house, and after the noonday

303

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ,

an Id

service the Sahibzadas paid

Shaikh-ul-Haram at

his house,

to tea, coffee, Turkish sweets,

visit to

and were treated

and sharbat.

wife of the Shaikh-ul-Haram, the

and the wife

the Governor

General called on me.

the

daughter

of

the

Treasurer-

them

to refresh

of

I treated

The

ments as required by custom and, having cere moniously partaken of them, they took their leave.

In this month

of

Shawwal, Izzatlu Hasan

Muzaffar Pasha, Governor of Medina, entertained

me and

was the Commander band,

As the Pasha

the Sahibzadas at dinner.

etc.,

On

of the

Medina

garrison, the

played a special part on this occasion.

the 6th of

Shawwal

received a

I

com

munication from the Governor, of which the following "

is

a translation

:

Peace and benedictions

!

I

beg to inform

your Highness that being the Governor of Medina and, as such, responsible for safeguarding the

holy city and able, in

direct

all

its

suburbs, I have deemed

view of the

it

advis

present circumstanes, to

the officers in charge of the gates

of

the holy city not to allow, without reference to

me, any

of

your Highness

s

Camp

followers to

304

THE STORY OF A

go out of the City either to

The

pleasure.

officers

visit a shrine or for

have

been informed

also

that in the event of permission being given to

any member

of

your Highness

s

party to leave

the limits of the city, a suitable escort will be pro

vided for him to prevent any mishap.

beg that your Highness

fore

announce

the

this to

members

Should any one, in spite of of the city

to

I

not be

of

your party.

this warning,

all

go out

to meet with an accident, I

answerable for the consequences.

a reply to this

to

be pleased to

trust that your Highness will favour

conveyed

there

without previously notifying the fact

me and happen

shall

will

I

me with

The warning was duly communicated

representation."

in this letter

the members of our party.

Several citizens of Mecca had for a long time

been in receipt of allowances from the Bhopal State, but no allowance had been given to any one in Medina.

With

a

view, therefore, to earning

spiritual grace, I created stipends to the

monthly

value of Rs. 76 for the benefit of the latter.

On the 24th of Shawwal the Turkish officers

and

I distributed

troops

the

among sum of

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. Rs. 2,000 and of

305

12 Qursh through the Governor

Medina.

Hearing that camels could not generally travel with the Syrian caravan and that camels

numbers

convey the whole of our party with the Syrian caravan were not procur able, I, on the 16th Zi-kaadof 1321 Hijra, started

in sufficient

to

hundred men in charge of Mian Kamil Muhammad Khan and Bakhshi Ashik off

a party of one

Husain Khan to Mecca via Yembu. I

had altered

my programme

Ramzan and had informed

on the 18th

the British Consul at

Jeddah with a view to the cancellation steamer contract.

At the same time

I

of the

had ex

pressed a desire that the Sublime Porte should

be moved to allow the necessary orders to be issued to

the officer in charge

of

the Syrian

The British Consul, accordingly, took steps to secure the desired result and a long cor

caravan.

respondence ensued.

When, however, no definite answer was received from him till Shawwal, I twice asked

made

him what arrangements had been

for the safety of our party.

After await

ing a reply in vain for two days, inquiries were

made from the Shaikh-ul-Haram PH

as to

whether 20

306

THE STORY OF A

had received any intimation regarding our accompanying the Syrian caravan. But he also he

could not

tell

me

I

anything.

then telegraphed

to the British Consul- General at Constantinople

from

whom

received a satisfactory reply.

I

mediately afterwards

I

Im

learned from the Shaikh-

ul-Haram that His Majesty the Sultan had

tele

graphed to the officer in charge of the Syrian Mahmil to take us with him and to adopt all measures for our safety.

A

second telegram

came asking me, as soon as the caravan arrived, to show the message to Abd-ur- Rahman Pasha and expressing

his gratitude in anticipation for

such support as In

the

I

might receive from the Pasha.

meantime one Abu-1-Jud arrived

from Mecca with a

letter

from the

Sharif, point

ing out that the

man whom

my Muzawwir (a

religious guide to a pilgrimage)

had no claim to the

rightful

said a

None before

of

had appointed as

post, but that the bearer of

the missive was the

man

I

claimant.

good many things in my ancestors had ever

me and

appointed.

his

own

visited

This praise.

Medina

thus no family Muzawwir had been

In Medina

it

is

the custom for

each Muzawwir to take charge of the pilgrims

307

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

from 10 or 20

cities.

had, therefore,

new

is

included in the

Muhamad Hammad and chosen him as guide. Now

of

Muzawwirship

Bhopal

one

difficulty arose

I

a

Abu-1-Jud claimed the

as

right.

was the month

It

of pilgrimage

of

Zikaad and the season

From

was drawing near.

received from those

members

letters

of our party

who

had proceeded direct from Jeddah to Mecca, I The Sharif learned that the Sharif was annoyed.

had

in

building

them

the

Safi

my men

in

a

but had made

leave the place under a threat on the Id

hearing this

him that

I

addressed a letter to the

was prepared to punish they had committed any fault. The

Sharif telling

my men if letter

instance housed

owned by Sayyad

On

day.

first

now

I

received through, the

man Abu-1-Jud

showed clearly that the Sharif was very angry with me.

When

Abu-1-Jud raised

this

quarrel

brought a recommendation from the Sharif

him that

Hammad come

and

I told

had already appointed Muhammad as ray Muzawwir and that if he had

I

at first his claim would have been con

sidered.

However I settled

the matter by giving

THE STORY OF A

308

each of them a sum of Rs. 30 and arranging that Abu-l-Jud should act as Muzawwir for such pilgrims from Bhopal as might

The folio wing is a copy exchanged

later.

of the correspondence

in connection with the departure

our party in Copy

come

company

with the Syrian caravan

of :

dated the 20th January 1904, from Her Begam of Bhopal, to His Britannic Majesty s

of a letter

Highness the

Consul at Jeddah, I

am

together

in receipt of your letter of 9th

with

Macwatt and also received

registered

Impey and

copy

of a

letters

January from Majors

18 other letters.

I

telegram which you had

sent to the Governor of Hijaz. I regret

to which it

you

that your letter of 28th December refer did not reach me,

and believe

has also been miscarried like those two

grams about which you have written. your

letter

informs

me

tele

However,

that the agreement with

the steamer has been cancelled.

my thanks for the arrangement making for my escort when travel

Please accept

which you are

ling with the Syrian caravan.

309

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Copy of a telegram dated Medina, the 31st January 1904, from Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal, to British Consul, Jeddah.

caravan shortly expected, received

Syrian

no news whether Sultan arranged

my

for

journey

with this caravan. of a telegram dated Medina, the 3rd February 1904, from Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal, to British Consul at Constantinople.

Copy

We Bullets

were fell

fired at

on our way from Yembu.

close rny son.

Matter reported to

Sultan through Consul, Jeddah.

Propose going

Mecca with Syrian caravan which Received no intimation

expected.

has orders to convey

officer

Jeddah.

Consul,

connection Vali

and

me

is if

shortly

caravan

Wired

safely.

Receiving no reply, Neither

broken.

yet

think

from

heard

Sharif.

Usman Pasha, the Shaikhul-Haram, dated 18th Ramzan 1321 A. H.

Translation of letter addressed to

I shall

be very grateful to you

kindly convey to H.

my

I.

if

M. the Sultan on

my

sincere thanks for the kind attention

tection

you

will

behalf

and pro

which His Majesty has been graciously

pleased to extend to me, for detailing troops to escort me,

and

for enabling us to reach

Medina

in

THE STORY OF A

310

peace and safety and to encamp close to the holy

Kindly at the same time express my gratitude to His Majesty for the fact that both shrine.

the Muhafiz and the Shaikh-ul-Haram Pashas, as as

well

all

the

officials in

the holy city have ac

me more than customary honour and It is now my intention to prolong my courtesy.

corded

stay at Medina and then to proceed to Mecca with the caravan from Syria.

hope that you

will,

Therefore

I

venture to

on your part, show

like

cour

making the necessary arrangements; more over H. I. M. the Sultan s uniform kindness gives

tesy in

me

full

confidence that His Majesty will be gra

ciously pleased to issue the requisite orders

command

me

take

the officer in charge of the caravan to

safely

A letter same

and

from Medina to Mecca.

couched in similar terms was, on the

date, despatched to the Muhafiz

Pasha

at

Medina. Copy

of a letter dated

Her Highness

Medina, the 5th February 1904, from

the

Nawab Begam

of

Bhopal, to British

Consul, Jeddah.

I

but I

addressed you several letters and telegrams,

am sorry that no reply has yet been received

to any of them, nor do I

know what arrangement

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

is

made with regard

Syrian caravan. letter

my

to

travelling with the

Of course,

received only one

I

from you, dated 9th January,

in

you were arranging

my

said that

for

know no

further as to

and

it is

towards

The date

Medina

arrival at

s

me about your send

It is very surprising that neither

them reached me.

caravan

In

telegrams and one letter dated the

28th December. of

escort to

what has been done.

the same letter you informed

me two

which you

Since then I

proceed with the Syrian caravan.

ing

311

of the

Syrian

fast approaching,

is

rumoured here that the telegraph wire Jeddah is broken. At last I was

obliged to wire to the British

Constantinople.

A

copy

of the

Ambassador

telegram

at

here

is

with annexed. I

am

not aware

if

the contract with the

S. S.

Behara was cancelled in due time.

The Shami

Mahmil

I

is

shortly expected here, so

anxious and shall be

me

full

much

account which

obliged

if

am

very

you furnish

will greatly relieve

me.

of a letter dated Jeddah, the 6th February 1904, from Mr. G. P. Devey, H. B. M. Consul, to Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal, Medina.

Copy

I

receipt

have of

the

honour to acknowledge the

youy telegram

of

yesterday, and to

THE STORY OF A

312

inform that inquiry having been made through the local Governor from Mecca telegraphic reply

has been received to the following effect Lt.- Colonel will

Basim Bey with sufficient

escort the

:

soldiers

from

party of your Highness

Medina and the Shaikh-ul-Haram and the Muhafiz have been instructed to take measures

for

the

safety

all

the necessary

and comfort

of

the

Besides this the Muhafiz of the Syrian

party.

Mahmil has

been instructed to take especial care of the party, and His Highness the Grand also

Sharif

Ahmad

extra

escort,

Haram and with

all

soldiers

under

bin Mansoor to Medina to provide

and the abovenamed Sharif

carries letters for

also

your Highness, the Shaikh-ul-

On your Highness

the Muhafiz.

Mecca an

arrival at

Bisha

to-day, sent

Sharif has,

official

s

reception will be given

the honours due to your Highness rank.

With Highness

all

these

precautions,

will arrive at

conveys

full

and

is

as it

I

am

detail of

hope your

Mecca without any hind

rance and discomfort (on the road).

sending a telegram

I

Instead of

writing this letter as

all

it

the measures taken,

being sent by a special messenger

it

313

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

reach Medina as

may

quickly as a telegram

which sometimes takes a week or more. receiving this information

After

Mr. Devey

were

s

letter)

satisfied that

made

Khan to

felt

from

quite relieved and

complete arrangements had been

for our leaving

Sahibzada

we

(i.e.,

Medina with the caravan.

Hafiz

Muhammad

Ubaidullah

Sahib Bahadur used often to communicate

me any

pieces of information

which he happen

ed to gather from the inhabitants of the place.

Thus he informed me unless provisions were im mediately made for a supply of camels we should

not be able to obtain any to convey us when the

time came

for us to join the Syrian caravan, for it

had been ascertained on inquiry that, at the time when the caravan was expected to leave, the hire of these animals usually rose to any sum from Us. 200 to 250 per head. We therefore

wrote the following letter to the Muhafiz. Pasha at

Medina

in

order that reasonable

might be made for camels

provision

:

Translation of letter to the Muhafiz Pasha, Medina, dated 8th Shavvwal 1321 A. H.

Will

know

you be

in full detail

so kind as to write

what

is

and

let

me

the rate at which hire

314

THE STORY OF A be charged for camels preceding and accom

will

panying the Syrian caravan also

Please inform

?

whether Skaghdaf and Shibri can be

on to the camels going with the

me

fitted

caravan,"

In reply to this he enquired on the 9th Shawwal

how many camels we should be To

this inquiry the following

the llth

Shawwal 1321

Copy

A.

likely to want.

answer was sent on

H. :-

of letter to the Mnhafiz Pasha, Medina.

In reply to your letter of the 9th Shawwal 1321 A. H., I beg to say that I hope that it will be possible

caravans

to carry on the camels of the Syrian all

the Skaghdaf and Shibri which has

come with us from Yembu because most a of

The number

sound and undamaged condition. camels that

will

of it is in

be required for our party

may

be estimated at one hundred and twenty-five as detailed below,

namely

2 Takt-i-rawan

...

Shaghdaf

...

Shibri

...

Baggage

...

:

...

questing

him

8

45

.- 52 ...

...

The Shaikh-ul-Haram Pasha part, telegraphed to

... ...

also,

20

on

Abd-ur-Rahman Pasha

to bring fifty camels with

paid for at the rate of Rs. 150 a head.

him In a

his re

to be

315

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

much effort and

after

exertion the requisite

num

ber of camels were got together.

On

the 24th

A. H. there

Shawwal 1321

Hamza

was a

ibn Abd-ul

festival in

commemoration

Mutalib.

Several noble men and gentlemen of our

went to pay

suite

of

their respects to the

of the saint, but as nothing

noteworthy occurred

in connection with the event I forbear

more than a passing

On

memory

allusion to

from making

it.

the 24th Zi-kaad 1321 A. H. the caravan

from Syria entered Medina.

who went

to see

it

Those

of our party

reported that the caravan had

halted as usual at the public halting ground.

The sacred equipage (Mahmil) may be thus

On

and powerful camel is fastened a square amari surmounted by a dome. described

:

In this amari

is

a very large

carried the cloth cover or casing

intended for the holy Kaaba.

The hangings

of

the amari are green and gold.

Following this

is

another

camel on which

or royal standard.

is

age

men

when

women

all

the grandees and

of position join in receiving this it

arrives,

Bairak

The Shaikh- ul-Haram and the

Muhafiz Pashas as well as other

carried the

equip

and generally both men and

are allowed to be present at the reception.

THE STORY OF A

316

The equipage reached the (Bab-us-Salam) o clock;

full

progress

the

of

"Gate

Prophet

s

of

Peace"

shrine

royal honours were paid to

it

at 11 in its

a guard -of -honour

;

composed partly of the troops that accom

and partly of panied it formed an escort and the whole proces sion marched to the music of a brass band.

local troops

The following is a description of the Bab-usIt is a platform adjoining the threshold Salam :

of a door, about one foot lower It has

room

to seat about thirty

sides of it are lined

shoes of those

than the threshold.

who

The

people.

with shelves intended for the

The

enter the sacred building.

elevation of the platform above the level of the is

ground

such that

its

top

is

reached by three

with nights of steps, yet the camel laden

made

age was

to climb

up to

its

equip

this platform

and

kneel on it, in doing which the animal immediately

put of

its

head on the sacred threshold with an

The trappings were

the utmost reverence.

then taken like the

off

air

the animal by

men

of high position,

Muhafiz and Shaikh-ul-Haram Pashas and

Abd-ur-Rahman Pasha, and the amari was carried by them

into the

placed under the

mosque fifth of

of the Prophet.

It

was

the arches supporting

317

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. the edifice in the

first

row

of the second platform

The crowd was

Osmanli pavilion.

of the

The women gave expression whistling while the

men

large.

to their pleasure

shouted.

by

So long as the

Syrian caravan halted at Medina the holy equip age (Mahmil) remained in the Prophet

s

mosque.

Muhammad Ubaidullah Khan Bahadur and Sahibzada Muhammad Hamidullah Khan Hafiz

Bahadur were present when the sacred palanquin was taken

On

off

the camel

s

back.

the same day Abd-ur-Rauf Khan, Offg.

Deputy Mir Munshi in the Hijaz,

was

s

to our party during our tour

ent to

Abd-ur-Rahman Pasha

to ascertain the terms of our contract with refer

ence to the hire of camels and sundry other

matters connected with the journey.

reached the Pasha

round

it

s

tent he

When

he

found the space

crowded with armed Bedouins from the

neighbourhood whose Shaikhs were inside the tent.

from

He

therefore stationed himself in a place

which

he

watch everything that What passed between Abd-urcould

was going on. Rahman Pasha and the Shaikh was something of this kind.

in

his

presence

318

THE STORY OF A

He found

who ap

that one of the Shaikhs,

peared to be very arrogant, was telling the Pasha that there was going to be a tremendous distur

bance as he and

and

his followers

well armed.

were quite prepared

Abd-ur-Kahman Pasha

quite calmly and indifferently

trouble

it will

there

"If

be bad for you and not for

is

any

On

us."

Shaikh again repeated with growing

the

this

replied

insolence

But, Pasha,

a disturbance

allowed to

assure

I

you there

and the Indian lady

go."

will

be

not be

will

Then the Pasha, who had

sword lying near him, exclaimed angrily

a

She

:

most assuredly go in spite of what you say and, what is more, she will tread on your necks

will

Do you

in going. of

H.

I.

not

know

M. the Sultan and that

trusted with her safety is

that she

What

?

is

the guest

I

have been en

I

am

telling

merely what His Majesty has ordered;

contravene His Majesty will

s

if

you you

orders your settlements

be destroyed, your habitations burnt down,

and your

much

hill

reliance,

fastnesses,

on which you place so

broken into

little

pieces

be scattered to the four winds as flakes

of cotton.

if

which

will

they were

Then, laying his hand mena

cingly on the hilt of his sword, he said:

"Shall

319

PILGRIMAGE TO HJJAZ.

you a practical demonstration of the way in which His Majesty s orders are carried out?" I give

At the mention

of the Sultan s

name

all

the

Shaikhs bowed their heads in token of submis sion.

said that

They

it

was not in a

spirit of

insubordination that they were urging what they

They were merely asking him not to cause them to lose the emoluments to which they had urged,

were entitled by immemorial custom, particularly as he

knew

their rights

and was aware that their

dues had not been paid to them.

Abd-ur-Rahman Pasha

replied that he

would

not recommend them to the generosity of H. H. the

Begam

of Bhopal, nor

hand, stand in the clined to give

way

if

would

he,

on the other

Her Highness were

them something

of her

own

in

accord.

After this the Shaikhs were given leave to depart

and Abd-ur-Rauf Khan, having obtained the information he was seeking, came back.

A little

before our departure another banquet

was given to us by the Muhafiz Pasha It Its

may

of

Medina.

be described as a farewell entertainment.

sumptuousness was in no way

of previous functions of the kind.

inferior to that

THE STORY OF A

320

One hundred and nine camels were hired by us

at

rates

different

the

for

sum

total

of

Rs. 14,061 to go with the Syrian caravan.

On Saturday,

the 27th Zi-kaad, that

13th February 1904 A. D.,

we put on our

is,

the

pilgrim

robes and presented ourselves at the shrine of the

Prophet to pay our

last

and respectful

Late in the afternoon, having halted at the Bir (well) of

left

farewell.

Medina, we

All with the Syrian

caravan.

About 248

officers

to our retinue here, viz.

and

soldiers were

:

Name. 1.

2.

Rank.

Izzutlu Mustafa Basin

Muhammad

Beg

...

etc.

etc.

this place the

the 28th Zi-kaad,

...

Saleh Effendi

etc.

Leaving

added

Lieutenant. Mufti.

next day, Sunday,

we took the road

to Mecca.

Although the dangers of the route were in no way less

than those experienced by us between

and Medina,

yet,

Yembu

owing partly to the awe inspired

by the imposing appearance of the Syrian cara van and partly to the excellent measures of precaution taken

by Abd-ur-Kahman Pasha

Amir-ul-Askar), the

Bedouins

(the

did not dare to

molest us during three entire stages of the journey

and we encountered no danger

for that space.

321

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ,

At the third

stage, however,

Muhammad

Pasha told Sahibzada Hafiz ullah

Khan

Abd-ur-Kahman Ubaid-

Sahib that he had received information

had imprisoned the the Bir-i-Main pretending that he was

to the effect that the Sharif

Shaikh

of

holding

him

him

to death

the

route

"But,"

and threatening to put order was not maintained along

as a hostage if

by which the Begam was coming. Abd-ur-Rahman Pasha added, "this is

merely a pretext on the part of the Sharif for holding the Shaikh prisoner, the real object try and bring disgrace is

a friend of mine,

and

to his absence, his tribe

attempt some mischief.

upon me it is

my

safe travel

I

:

Khan carved

left

guard

empty.

was

of

was given a

I

used

The Commander

apprized of

lift

it.

It

should travel playing a dodge.

the

of

fact,

to

travel

the

Body

but

instructed to keep the usual escort with I

out a

which he mentioned to

So the takht-i-rawan in which

was

owing

get out of hand and

Abd-ur-Rahman Pasha who approved was settled that

to

Shaikh

for the

possible that,

may

Sahibzada Ubaidullah plan for

;

is

in

it,

was

and

another one which generally

used to be carried empty and belonged to some PH 21

THE STORY OF A

322 Syrian Amir. to be carried

This taJcht-i-rawan

ahead

of the

whole caravan.

dodge proved a great success.

though several bullets rawan I was travelling

fell

I

scale

the

was quite safe

in.

owing to the rocky nature was a most difficult matter to

This

close to the takht-i-

The Turkish troops returned

attempt

was ordered

hill

of

this

but

fire,

the ground

it

any one to whence the fire

for

Ever since the previous stage of the journey we had known that danger was to be apprehended in this locality, and every came.

thing possible had been done to avert efforts

bullets

had not proved

successful.

it,

but our

And now

down upon us from the hill in The Turkish Commander with remark

pelted

question.

able promptitude ordered a portion of his to carry

it

by

assault.

men

These began to climb

with the utmost courage and perseverance of

the

;

a hail

musketry was directed at them from the crest

of the

face of

hill,

it

but they continued to mount in the

As the

with the coolest deliberation.

Bedouins were invisible behind cover,

it

was a

long time before the Turkish artillery could be

323

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

brought into action with any perceptible

effect.

The engagement lasted over two hours. Yuzbashi (an

officer) of

the

Sulaiman Agha,

In this engagement

the troops from Jeddah

which were accompanying

us, lost his life,

and

was reported that the enemy also had several But by the mercy of of their number killed.

it

Providence every one belonging to the caravan

came

off

Bedouins, against

In the end these disaffected

unscathed.

rinding that they could not stand

the

Ottoman guns,

and retreated precipitately the column told

caravan

through the

left their positions

resumed

mercy

of

its

same time

at the

to assault the

off

summit, and, safety being in the

;

up

this

hill

gained

manner

march.

its

secured,

After

this,

God, no danger of any

kind was encountered by us on the way.

At 12 o clock on Tuesday, the 6th Zi-Hijja, corresponding to the 23rd February 1904 A. D.,

we entered Mecca.

H. E.

Ahmad

Eatib Pasha,

the Vali of Hijaz, and H. H. Aun-ur Kafik Pasha,

the Sharif of Mecca, with a Turkish guard-of-

honour

of

regular

and

irregular

troops

with

regimental music, came outside the holy city as far as the Place of the

Martyrs to receive us with

THE STORY OP A

324

the usual honours, the band playing and the guna firing

way we reached our town attended by every mark of

the salute.

quarters in the

honour and

In this

The house

respect.

Ahmad

residence was that of

On Wednesday,

Copy

Muhammad

of instructions to

Lao.

the 7th Zi-Hijja 1321 A. H.,

we sent the following Sahibzada

selected for our

directions

in

writing to

Ubaidullah Khan:

Muhammad

Sahibzada

Ubaidullah

Khan, dated the 7th Zi-Hijja 1321 A. H. "When,

the Sharif of

we arrived here yesterday H. H. Mecca and H. E. the Vali of Hijaz

did us the honour of coming out of the city as far as the Place of the

Martyrs to receive

are therefore instructed to officers

on our behalf.

us.

You

pay a visit to both these

On your

return you are

to report to us the nature of your reception there

and

their

demeanour towards you.

performance

upon

of

Haj ceremonies

I

After the

shall also call

them."

During our stay in Mecca the following per

The Grand Sharif upon me, namely wife Abd-ur-Eahman Pasha, the Gover

sons called

and

his

:

;

nor of Damascus, of the Hijaz,

Ahmad

Shaikh

Ratib Pasha, the Vali

Muhammad

Salih Shaibi

;

325

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

and the Egyptian Pasha, and I returned of the Sharif and of Ahmad Eatib Pasha.

All Pasha,

the calls

In order to conform to the ritual of the

pil

grimage on entering the Jiaram or sacred precincts,

we performed the tawaf (circumambulation of the Kaaba) and the sai (perambulation of the holy precincts).

We repaired

to Arafat

on the 8th Zi-Hijja and

The other

performed the Haj on the 9th.

cere

monies connected with the pilgrimage at Mina and Muzdalifa

occupied us

till

the

12th

when we

returned to Mecca in the evening.

We

had

all

along been aware of the unfriend

liness of the Sharif,

but the gracious kindness

of

the Sultan and the frank sincerity of the Turkish officials

had given him no opportunity

displaying his fixed

antagonism towards

the 20th Zi-Hijja,

On as

I

had

my

departure from

that day the Vice-Consul brought a

letter addressed to

that,

us.

openly

corresponding to the

8th March 1904 A. D., for

Mecca.

.

of

H.

him by the

H. the Begam

Sharif which said of

Bhopal was

intending to leave soon, she must pay the rent

had stayed in for the last three or four days and that this rent amounted to of the house she

THE STORY OF A

326 15,000 rupees.

This letter the Vice-Consul showed

to Sahibzada Hafiz

The

Muhammad Ubaidullah Khan.

asked to be allowed to show it to Her

latter

Highness but the Vice-Consul would not

have

and went back to

it

I

quarters.

him The

Sahib mentioned the matter to me,

Sahibzada

and

his

let

wrote to the Vice-Consul asking him for

the Sharif

s letter.

Here is a copy

of

my letter

:

Khan Bahadur Dr. Muhammad Hussain Sahib, H. B. M. Vice-Consul at Jeddah, dated 18th Zi-Hijja 1321 A. H.

Letter to

"I

have learnt to-day that you have receiv

from the Sharif demanding through you the rent of the house in which we are staying. I should, therefore, be much obliged to you if you

ed a

letter

would kindly write to me and

also favour

me with

a copy of the Sharif s letter in order that a settle

ment may be made But even question.

of the

rent."

so he did not send

me

the letter in

money I had taken with me To provide time, come to an end.

All the

had, by this

against emergencies I had furnished myself with

a letter of credit from Abd-ul-Ghaffar, the Delhi

merchant, who had promised to advance as as a lakh of rupees to

me through

much

his agents

if

327

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. I sent for his

needed.

He

some money.

servant and asked him for

was quite impossible to sum on that day, but that

said

provide the requisite

it

he would be able to give

it

in a

In

day or two.

the meantime the Vice- Consul began dunning

on one hand with demand

after

demand

for

me

pay

ment, while on the other hand, the Sharif pressed

with an undue insistence which passed

his claim

the limits of good manners, so that I was compel led to address the following

message to the British

Consul at Jeddah. Copy
in

of telegraphic message addressed to H. B. Consul at Jeddah, 8th March 1904.

The Sharif asks

which he forced

end

of our tour, I

suffice

both

rent.

I

me

1,000 rent for the house

have not enough money

is

paid.

So

paid through you, I shall be

sum

I will remit

State

;

there

could be

my

departure

and may possibly not be able to

telegraph to the Sharif that the

my

left to

expenses and for the

have, therefore, postponed

leave until the rent

place.

This being the

to stay.

for travelling

fixed for to-day,

M.

is

if

you

will

money able"

kindly

will

be

to leave the

you the amount on regaining no one here from whom the

borrowed."

328

so

THE STORY OF A

The arrangements for sending telegrams are lamentably bad in those parts that no message

can be despatched unless

by the

When,

Vali.

sent to the

office to

Telegraphs took

not to allow his

it

it

it

has

first

my

therefore,

been read

telegram was

be signalled, the Censor

the Vali and advised him

to

to be sent, saying that

it

was

opinion inexpedient to let a complaint

the

of

it

Sahib -

Vali thereupon sent his Secretary to me.

zada Hafiz

in

would be damaging to The the Ottoman Government.

that nature travel far as the honour of

of

Muhammad

man coming and

Ubaidullah

Khan saw

asked his business.

The

Secretary replied that he had come to fetch Maul vi

Azam Husain Khan

as the Vali

had some business

The Maulvi was away shopping in the town and was a long time returning, but the Sahibwith him.

zada Sahib, after

much

trouble,

from the Secretary the nature

managed

to^glean

of his errand.

the meanwhile the Maulvi also came up.

In

The

Secretary explained the whole matter and ended

by saying Give tell

:

This

is

my respectful

what the Vali has

his

me

:

salaams to Her Highness and

her that the Sharif

upon

said to

is

not only bringing shame

own head but is dragging

us into disgrace

329

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Your Highness is the guest of H. I. M. the Sultan, and if His Majesty hears of this affair, as well.

he

will

be very displeased with us.

1

had already

provided a house for your Highness near the

Holy Place but, seeing that

it

had pleased your

Highness to write direct to the Sharif for a house, I said

nothing more about the

Azam Husain went

Accordingly Maulvi with he

my

made

matter."

permission to the Vali. his report to

his return

This report, which

me.

runs as follows, sets forth

On

all

the details of this

affair.

Copy

of report

"

to us by Maulvi Azam Husain on the 20th Zi-Hijja 1321 A. H.

made

In obedience to the invitation of the Vali of

Hijaz and to your Highness

to-day to the Vali.

Highness

why

I

I

am

was sent

commands,

For the information

I

went

of

your

herein setting forth the reason for

by the

Vali

and what the

Vali

said to me.

The telegram addressed to the British Consul at Jeddah which your Highness sent to the Tele graph

Office

and which related to the thousand

pounds demanded from you as house rent by the Sharif, was sent by the Censor to the Vali accom-

330

THE STORY OF A

panied by the advice that

would not be wise to

it

allow a complaint of that kind to travel so far

because

it

Ottoman

might compromise the honour of the Government. Thereupon the Vali

sent for

me and

at such

conduct on the part of the Sharif, and,

by way

of

expressed to

his deep regret

apology and reassurance, added that

much

the house was not worth so

asked being exorbitant is

me

the guest of H.

;

that, as

rent, the

sum

your Highness

M. the Sultan, no rent could

be lawfully taken from you, and lastly that, even

had been permissible to charge the demand ought to have come from him

supposing that rent,

as

it

it

was he and not the Sharif who had provided

the house in which your Highness

The

Sharif, as a

do with

staying.

of fact,

had nothing to

Amir

(Sharif) he said

it.

Then that the

matter

is

referring to the

man seemed

to be in his dotage, that his

ideas were those of a Bedouin

and that no impor tance ought to be attached to his words and acts as he was very fickle, changing his mind

frequently.

Then the

Vali

went on

to explain

that he had been quite in the dark about the

correspondence

which

had

taken

place

with

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. reference

331

the rent and that he had

to

tremely pained when he heard of

it.

It

felt

ex

was just

that kind of thing which not only humiliated

them but

earned a bad reputation for the

also

Ottoman Government. questing

me

The Vali ended by

re

to represent to your Highness that

was neither expedient nor necessary to send the telegram as nobody had any right to ask any it

rent for the house and that, for

it,

anybody did ask your Highness was under no obligation

whatever to pay

if

it.

In reply to this

I

sent these matters to

said, that I

your Highness and then

act according to your Highness

As we did not turn should be

made

no

re

in consideration of our short

Mansab Ali, the Mir Munshi

we

sent Munshi

to our expedition,

and

Azam Husain with one thousand sovereigns

to the Vali to send the

accompanied by a note requesting him

money through

the Sharif and, sive,

commands.

in the least wish that

stay in the house in question,

Maulvi

would repre

if

to send as

his intermediation to

he thought the amount exces

much

as he thought proper so

that at any rate a fitting recompense should not

THE STORY OF A

332

ultimately to reach the Sharif,

fail

depending on the Vali

s

its

amount

pleasure.

The report presented to me by these gentle men on their return from the Vali s is here set forth for the better elucidation of the facts of the case.

Copy

Azam

Maulvi Zi-Hijjal321 A. H.

the second

of

report of

Husain, 21st

In obedience to your Highness

went to the Vali

Hijaz with

of

sovereigns and your Highness after reading the letter told

the thousand

The Vali

letter.

me

that

it

inconsistent

with the honour of the

Government

to

Sultan

s

guest.

Vali to take the

take It

Ottoman

urged the sent on to the

was in vain that it

would be

from the

even a penny

sum and have

orders I

I

any portion of it he thought and hand the same over to the proprietor of

Sharif or to deduct fit

the house, but he would not hear of accepting

the

sum

either as a whole or in part, so I

was

back with compelled to return bringing the money me.

I

submit

this report for

your Highness

information.

As no adequate provision

made by the

Sharif

by that

for

camels had been

date,

we had

to stay

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

on

333

22nd Zi-Hijja corresponding to the

until the

10th of March.

Hafiz

Sahibzada

Khan Bahadur,

Muhammad

Ubaidullah

in consideration of the fact that

the Vice -Consul had been making arrangements

and that

for pilgrims,

these

six or seven

thousand of

had already started and yet there was no

any arrangements being made for ourselves, deputed Sirdar Mirza Karim Beg and Captain

sign of

Husain Khan to go to the Vice-Consul

Muhammad and

invite

him

come

to

These gentlemen

to us.

came back and reported that the Vice-Consul was so busily engaged with heaps of sovereigns

front of

him that he could not pay any

to them.

When

in

attention

they insisted once or twice on

being heard and told him that the Sahibzada

Sahib had sent for him and that Her Highness

had complained

of

no camels having yet been

provided and invited him to come with them, he

answered these

with

c

am

I

too busy with arranging for

and cannot spare the time to go It does not seem out of place to

pilgrims you."

remark here

that,

considering that the

Government and the Consul

at

British

Jeddah had with

such courtsey and solicitude done everything to

THE STORY OF A

334

secure our comfort and safety,

that the Vice- Consul

same

British

it

who was

seemed strange

a servant of the

Government and,

as

a matter of

duty, primarily responsible for our safety, should rebuff us in this manner.

In a word, from that day forth the ViceConsul somehow never could manage to find the

time to come and see me.

when

face

He

only showed his

had actually embarked on board The Vali of Hijaz start for home. I

ship

to

made

the necessary preparations for

providing

camels.

On

the 21st Zi-Hijja, Ali Pasha (who of the Sharif of

nephew

Sharif Abdulla) sent

me

Mecca and the son a chestnut

is

the

of the

mare with a

message saying that when H. H. the late Begam

came

to

make

the pilgrimage his father had

made

her a present of two horses, therefore he hoped that I

would accept

too

mare was placed in in the

way

my

stable

of textile fabrics

to the donor of

On

his gift.

it

Accordingly the

and a few

articles

and arms were sent

as presents.

when the transport ar rangements had been completed, we left Mecca for Jeddah in the morning in company with the carathe 22nd Zi-Hijja,

PILGRIMAGE TO H1JAZ.

Two hundred and

van.

officers

and

335

thirty- three

Turkish

soldiers escorted us to Jeddah.

Ahmed

Eatib Pasha, the Vali of the Hijaz,

made very good arrangements

for

our return

journey as far as Jeddah, and Ali Pasha sent his personal bodyguard with us.

At Bahira they put me up

in a rest-house, so

that I spent a very comfortable night.

Although

we had not been inconvenienced on the way by the Bedouins, yet I had been so uncomfortable in

the takht-i-rawan travelling from Mecca that

the comforts of that house appeared to contrast to be in no in the

way

inferior to those

me by

enjoyed

Sadr ManziL

On the 23rd Zi-Hijja, corresponding to Friday, the llth

March, we arrived at

evening.

We

Jeddah

had been informed by a

in the

letter of

February 27th, 1904, from Captain Baldwin,

manding the

S.

Com

Akbar, that his ship was in

S.

the roadstead, so immediately on reaching Jeddah we,

together

with

Sahibzadas Hafiz

the

Shahryar Dulhan and

Muhammad

Ubaidullah

Khan

Muhammad

Hamidullah Khan, stepped on board the steam launch, which had been kept and

ready for us at the quay at Jeddah, and were con-

THE STORY OP A

336

was impossible to transport all our party with the whole of their baggage at once on boardship, the continual veyed to the Akbar.

But, as

it

stream of people belonging to our party, etc.,

with their

retinlie,

luggage and impediments kept

on flowing into the ship until the afternoon of the 25th Zi-Hijja 1321 A. H., Sunday, the 13th

March at

1904.

In the meanwhile our safe arrival

Jeddah had been telegraphed to Abd-ur-Kah-

man

Pasha,

Hijaz, Ali

Ahmad

Eatib

Pasha, and the

Pasha, Vali of the Sharif Aun-ur-Rafik

Pasha- Amir of Mecca, through the British Consul at

Jeddah,

in

reply to

which these gentlemen

sent messages expressing their satisfaction.

Mr. G. P. Devey, H. B. M. Consul at Jeddah,

and

Khan Bahadur

Vice-Consul,

Dr.

came on board

Muhammad to see us

off.

Husain, It

be as well to mention here that the luggage

may left

Yembu came up with Bakkshi Ashik Husain Khan and Kamil Muhammad Khan, and behind at

that those things which had been

Jeddah were picked up again

On Sunday,

left

in the

the 25th Zi-Hijjja

being the 13th March

behind in

same way. 1321 A. H.,

1904 A. D., late in the

afternoon, the ship weighed anchor and

we

left

337

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. Before leaving

home.

for

we wrote

the Consul at Jeddah of which a copy

a letter to is

appended

here. of

Copy

a

dated the

letter

Highness the

Begam

of

13th March

1904 from Her

Bhopal, to H. B.

M. Consul

at

Jeddah.

As the Daira Khassa

of

H. H. the Khedive

Egypt has out of his national sympathy ac quiesced in the annulment of the contract made

of

with the

Behara, I ask you to convey

S.

S.

thanks to H. H. for

the same and

my

you think it proper, please enquire the amount of Commission which the Daira Khassa of H. H. may have to pay owners

to the

of the ship, that I

if

may pay the

same.

more obliged to H. H. if he will accept the expenses incurred by him in sending telegrams and for other items. If His Highness I shall

be

still

accepts this, I hope I shall be informed. I

enclose herewith a letter addressed to H. H.

the Khedive and a telegram for His Holiness the Sherif of

Copy

of

Mecca

a letter the

for transmission.

dated the

Highness Begam Khedive of Egypt. I

for the

PH

am

of

13th March Bhopal, to

1904 from Her His Highness the

extremely obliged to your Highness

kind assistance rendered to

me

in cancel-

22

THE STORY OF A

338

ling the contract as regards the S. S. Behara.

few

address these express

my

lines

to

I

your Highness to

heartfelt gratitude.

On Thursday,

March

the 29th Zi-Hijja, 17th

1904 A. D., our ship anchored in the harbour at

Aden

at 9 A.M., but the Health Officer

of the

Port, as has been mentioned before, did not permit

any

party to land owing to there being

my

of

cholera in the Hijaz. after

We weighed

anchor thence

and on the 7th Muharram 1322

sunset,

A. H., the 25th of

the roadstead at

March

Bombay

1904, the ship entered late in the evening.

We

had telegraphed from Aden to Major L. Impey, Political Agent at Bhopal, and to Nawab Muhammad Nasrullah Khan Sahib, informing them of the time at

we had Birjis

mail

which we were due at Bombay, and

also instructed

them

to bring the

Baby

Jahan Begam with them by Thursday

Accordingly these gentlemen were

train.

already in

s

Bombay

officials of

the State.

roadstead,

it

together with several

When

high

the ship entered the

was quite dark, and

as,

according to

the usual custom, she could not be brought into the dock until the next morning, these people

came

alongside

by boat that night and saw

us.

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

On Saturday,

339

the 8th Muharram, 26th March

1904 A. D., the ship was taken into the dock at 10 o clock in the morning

and we, through the God, stepped on land after our

merciful bounty of

long sea voyage.

Major Mac watt took leave of us ing us to land.

On

our arrival the

after help

official

guard -

of-honour with a band was mustered on the

arms at our coming ashore the usual salute. It had been

It presented

quay.

and the guns

fired

previously arranged that

belonging to our

all

party should be sent on by special train to Bhopal

on the day of our arrival at Bombay, and that we ourselves with a few necessary suite should stay

members

some days Accordingly we

on in Bombay

and then proceed to Bhopal.

for

kept about forty persons with us in the rest of the

sent

party

Khan.

abad

At the end

we

Hall.

inspected the

I

Bombay and

on the same day to

Bhopal with the Sahibzada Hafiz Ubaidullah

of our

Muhammad

put up in the Muzaffar-

Girls

of our stay

School

in

Bombay

and found

it

satisfactory.

We

visited the Mills also

pleased with their work.

and were greatly

THE STORY OF A

340

During

time H. H. the Maharaja of

this

Baroda, who was staying in Bombay, came to see me.

I

saw him.

Our stay

in

Muharram 1322

Bombay

A. H.

Near the time rullah

Khan had

lasted until the 16th

of our return

Nawab Nas-

arranged in the following manner

pal for

and decorating the town of Bhothe festivities which were to be held in

honour

of our

for illuminating

A

home-coming

:

triumphal arch bearing the word

"Wel

had been erected at the railway station near the Sikandar Sarai, through which our carri

come

"

age was to pass.

masonry

Then

bridge, there

a

by the arch. The

farther on,

little

was a similar

space between these two arches was bedizened

with gay

flags

and bunting which were carried on

to the third arch, situated near

Hakikat Khan

s

Mosque, and terminated at the Moti Masjid. A fourth triumphal arch was erected outside the en closure of the

KotwaFs

office

and a succession

of

met the eyes in this ing the Shah Jahan Gate of

direction.

temporary gates were erected

for purposes of illu

mination; these faced north

and south respec-

large flags

this

Adjoin

building two

341

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

tively.

Here terminated a

series

The top

screens for carrying lights.

Jahan Gate had been adorned with facing east

of

trellis -work

of the

Shah

glass crescents

Similar crescents had been

and west.

placed on the Kaisar Gate, the gate of the Shaukat

Mahal, the Sultani Gate, and the gates of the Sadr Manzil,

Humayun

and

Manzil,

Screens of wire netting had been

Birjis

Manzil.

erected inside

and an arrangement for tumblers with oil and wicks

the Kotwali building

suspending

glass

made

in

means

of pillars with square -shaped wire netting

the east court of the Moti Mahal

stretched between them.

gateways in

this

netting

by

There were miniature

which were

also

de

corated with glass lamps hooked on to wire nets.

The

side of the street opposite to the

had been and

Moti Mahal

by means of pillars Inside the Shah Jahan Gate, as also

similarly illuminated

wire.

inside the Sultani Gate, glass chandeliers

suspended, the vestibules of the

had been

Kaisar

Gate,

the gate of the Shaukat Mahal and the Sultani

Gate had been illuminated with hanging glass tumblers.

The southern

Humayun

faces

of

the

Sadr

Manzil,

Manzil, and Birjis Manzil which look

342

THE STORY OF A

on to the

street were similarly

was lined with a double row as the Birjis Manzil.

carried

out

like

distance from the

up.

The

street

of illuminations as far

These illuminations were

those

adorned the court

lit

of

described

just

the Moti

The

Mahal.

triumphal arch

first

which

up to

where the illuminations ended was about a mile and-a-half

Inside the State court enclosure green

.

had been hung and outside the enclosure the streets had been lined on both sides with a flags

double row of carrying

bamboo

trellis -work

screens

for

which extended from the Shah

lights

Jahan Gate illuminations

to the

Budhwara Gate

of the city itself.

On Sunday,

the 16th

the 3rd April 1904 special train.

the

A. D.,

we

left

A. H.,

Bombay by

Before starting we had informed

Muin-ul-Maham

and other

Muharram 1322

officers of

and

the

Nasir-ul-Maham

our coming, in consequence of

which complete arrangements had been made

for

o ur reception at the station, for our conveyance, salutes, etc.

station at

On

the road leading east from the

Bhopal an infantry regiment, forming

the guard -of -honour, was drawn up as well as a

squadron of cavalry. The road leading south from

343

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

the

first

triumphal arch was lined by troopers of

our state cavalry

;

then came serried

lines of in

fantry extending from where the cavalry stopped

One company with its officers and regimental music was drawn up on the platform at the station. The saluting to the Chauni

Vilayittian.

battery of guns was stationed to the south of the

compound

enclosing

double row of

from the

the

Jcanats

special

Sikandari

A

had been put up leading

waiting-room to the end of

At the back

the platform.

Serai.

of the

waiting-room

these Jcanats spread out so as to form an enclosure

comprising the refreshment-room.

Inside receive

us

the station there were assembled to the

Muin-ul-Maham

Bahadur, the

Nasir-ul-Maham Bahadur, the Acting Paymaster of the Forces,

Victoria officers

Lancers, of the

ruling family,

and

of the

citizens.

and the

Officer

Commanding

together with

all

the

the

higher

State and blood relations of the

members

of the

Advisory Council

Municipal Board, and other prominent

The railway

their loyalty,

up to the end

officials

had, in token of

strung fireworks along the of the platform.

load

THE STORY OF A

344

On Monday,

Muharram 1322

the 17th

A. H.,

April 1904 A. D.,

corresponding to the 4th

at

3 o clock in the afternoon our special train drew

up at Bhopal

station.

We

alighted in the special

waiting-room in company with the

The Sahibzada Hafiz

ryar Dulhan.

Ubaidullah

to

conducted

to

having

Bhopal the party charge, so

that

Sahibs with senting

Muhammad

Khan Bahadur had come back after

Bombay

Begam Shah-

of

returned pilgrims under his

we had

us.

safely

all

Sayyid

the three Sahibzada

Kudrat

the Revenue Department,

Ali

repre

and Munshi

Hasan Khan, Assistant to the Nasir-ulMaham, who had gone to Bombay to meet us, Israr

also returned with us in the special train.

After spending a short time in the special

waiting-room where we received the greetings of those

who had come

carriage

and drove

to meet us,

we entered our

safely to the courtyard of the

Sadr Manzil with the whole of our entourage and retinue, receiving,

army. artillery

When we and the

their respective

on the way, the

salutes of the

entered the courtyard, the artillery in the Fort, each stations,

field

from

fired the usual salute.

In the evening, as had been previously arranged,

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

345

But

as the sacred

the illuminations took place. relics

which we had brought away from the two

we deemed

holy places had not arrived with us, it fit

pletely their

com

that these rejoicings should be more

organised and carried out on the day of

arrival in the

fireworks was

display of

For

city.

this reason the

postponed, and

decided that on Thursday, the 27th of

it

was

Muharram

1322 A. H., the Nazim of the Southern Districts

and the Tahsildar care the relics station,

of Tal, the

gentlemen to whose

had been committed

should bring them to

at Barkhera

Bhopal by the

morning mail train accompanied by the District Police Superintendent of Tal, that in person

as far as

ceive the

relics,

Bahadur

and

Ubaidullah

we should go

the masonry bridge to re

that

Nawab

Sahibzadas

Nasrullah

Hafiz

Khan

Muhammad

Khan and Muhammad Hamidullah

Khan, accompanied by the high dignitaries the State and our blood relations, should go far as the railway staton

and bring the

them, attended with every mark reverence

;

said relics

that for the space of

of

as

relics

with

of respect

and

one week the

should be placed in the Moti Masjid

under the care

of the

Custodian of the Mosques

THE STORY OF A

346

in order that the general

public might be given

the opportunity of doing themselves the honour of visiting

them, and that they should

removed from there and deposited

finally

be

in the Asafi

Mosque.

But relics

for

certain reasons the arrival of the

had to be put

to a later date in order

off

that they should not be until

Friday

brought into Bhopal

1st Rabi-ul-Awal.

followed was likewise altered.

The route to be It

was now deci

ded that the procession bearing the not take the

Budhwara Road over

bridge, but should proceed to

from the

station,

past

relics

should

the masonry

Shah Jahanabad

Munshi Husain Khan

s

Lake through the Imami Gate, past the front facade of the Sadr Manzil and through the Shah

Jahan Gate to the Moti Masjid which enter

by the northern

should stop and deposit

gate. its

it

Here the charge.

should cortege

Instead of

going in person to meet the procession, we should station ourselves with other ladies of rank in the eastern

chamber

of the Sadr

Manzil which faces

south and overlooks the road, whence we should

have the honour borne

past.

of seeing the relics as

This

seemed

they were

preferable

to

the

PILGRIMAGE TO HLJAZ.

original

The

plan.

following

are the

orders

issued in connection with the organisation of tins

Ceremony

:

:-.

-.

..;.

in i

"

f

Afi Saab,

::::

The sacred

which

relics

with us from the holy

cities

Mn

Depvtj

A H

we hare

brought

are expected to reach

Bhopal on Thnrsday ? the 27th instant, by die

morning mail train, in charge of the Xazim of the Southern Districts, the TahsDdar of Tal, and the Police Superintendent of Tal. far as the

masonry bridge to receive them.

will therefore

gether with

who

are

We intend to go as

all

now

You

attend at the railway station to those of your subordinate present in the capital.

offi:

With the

assistance of the following gentlemen, narn

the Xasir-ul-Maham

Munshi Sayyid Kudrat AH, Deputy Muin-ol-Maham, and Munshi Israr Hasan Khan, Deputy Xasir-ul-Maham. you Bahadur,

convey these holy things with utmost rev ence to the Moti Masjid and entrust them to I will

care of the Custodian of the Mosques.

remain on view

in the

They will Moti Masjid for one week

348

THE STORY OF A

in order that the public of the State

have the Copy

spiritual benefit of visiting

of instructions to

may

also

them.

Ghulam Kadir Khan, Superintendent 22nd Muharram 1322 A. H.

of Factories, dated the

The sacred the holy

relics

cities will, if

which we have brought from

God

wills,

reach Bhopal on

Thursday, the 27th Muharram, by the morning mail train.

masonry

We

bridge,

intend to welcome

and an

official

them

at the

is

also to

reception

be accorded to them on behalf of the State.

You

are therefore to bring the ancient State coach,

that

obtained in Madras,

from our palace to

the Sultan Manzil on that day for our use. will

You

furthermore send three female elephants to

be in attendance at the station. elephants will be caparisoned

Amari from

One

of these

with the

the Toshakhana in charge of

Shah Khan and the other two

silver

Ahmad

will carry the silver

howdahs belonging to the palaces of the SahibThe coffer containing the relics will be zadas. placed in the amari, while the howdahs will be occupied,

one

by

Nawab

Nasrullah

Khan

Bahadur Hafiz

and the other by Sahibzadas Haji Muhammad Ubaidullah Khan Baha

dur and

Muhammad

Hamidullah Khan Baha-

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. dur,

when returning from the

349

station.

But

if

the

Sahibzadas prefer to return in a carriage, the two spare elephants will take part in the procession.

No parda

enclosure of any kind will be necessary

at the station, but chairs

and other

seats are to

be properly provided as the Sahibzadas will go there.

A

them according of the

will

carriage

be in

attendance upon

Chunnu Khan, Keeper

to custom.

Toshakhana, and Shaikh

ride in the

amari with the

relics

Muhammad

bearing peacock-

Our coachman

feather fans in their hands.

be ordered to station our carriage in a

on the masonry bridge which good view

will

will

position

command

a

marches past.

then drive along the station

road through the Pir

On

will

of the procession as it

The carriage

will

Gate to the Sadr Manzil.

the 5th of Safar the relics are to be removed

from the Moti Masjid on a female elephant with full ceremonial and conveyed to the Asafi Mosque after the

Copy

Friday prayer. Muhammad

of instructions to

Faridullah Khan, dated

22nd Muharram 1322 A. H.

On Thursday, sacred relics which

the 27th of this month, the

we have brought with

us from

the holy shrines are due to arrive at Bhopal sta tion.

We are going in person as far as the

masonry

THE STORY OF A

350 bridge to

welcome them, while the Sahib zada

Sahibs and

all

the noblemen and dignitaries of

the State will attend at the station as well as

the troops and the maJii maratib, that

is,

all

the

You are

various insignia used on State occasions.

therefore instructed to order the troops to be in

attendance at the right time and place and the insignia to be in readiness. will fire

The Horse

Artillery

eleven rounds as a salute in honour of the

entry into Bhopal of the holy things and the troops together with our escort will form a procession and

convey them with reverence to the Moti Masjid.

A

band

will

this procession

accompany

through

On the 5th of Safar the relics will be re moved from the Moti Masjid to the Asafi Masjid On that occasion you after the Friday prayer.

out.

provide a

will

company

and a squad a guard-of- honour, and

of infantry

ron of cavalry to act as

a second squadron as an escort brass band.

band. Copy

This

may

The State band

of instructions to

;

also a military

be our private

will

palace

not be required.

Mian Umar Kiladar

of Fatehgarh,

20th Muharram 1322 A. H.

The sacred or

relics,

casing of the

consisting of the covering

Holy Kaaba and other things

35

PILGRIMAGE TO H1JAZ.

L

brought by us from the shrines of Mecca and Medina, will arrive in Bhopal on Thursday, the 27th instant, and Masjid.

You

from the guns

be deposited in the Moti

will

are ordered to fire eleven rounds in the Fort as they are received in

that Masjid. Copy

Muushi Inayatullah, Custodian Mosques, 22nd Muharram 1322 A. H.

of instructions to

On Thursday, relics

of

the 27th instant, the sacred

which we have brought from Mecca and

Medina

will arrive in

Maham and

Bhopal and the Muin-ul-

the Nasir-ul-Maham, assisted by their

Deputies, will convey

and place them

them

to the Moti Masjid

You

in your charge.

will

prepare

and proper spot in the Mosque the accommodation of these relics and keep

beforehand a clean for

them

there for the space of one week, allowing the

public to visit

them

On

at will.

Safar, after Divine Service,

you

Friday, the 5th

will transfer

the

said relics to the Asafi Masjid where the ladies of

the Palace will have the honour of seeing them. Copy

of orders endorsed

by Shaikh

on the back

of a petition presented

Muhammad

Hasan.

Let the petition dated the 20th Safar 1322 A.

H. together with that

presented

by

the

THE STORY OF A

352 Custodian

to our

ferred

and

office,

Mosques (without date) be trans

of

and

Record-keeper

let a

filed

in

his

of the

accompanying orders the undermentioned officers,

copy

be sent to each of

namely, the Muin-ul-Maham Bahadur, the Nasir-

ul-Maham Bahadur, the of the

Forces,

Munshi our

Paymaster Revenue acting Secretary,

Hasan Khan, the Chamberlain

Israr

own

the

officiating

of

the Kiladar of Fatehgarh, the

Palace,

Inspector of Factories, the Custodian of Mosques, of

Superintendent

Paymaster,

Recovery

of

Arrears, the Keeper of the Toshakhana, and the

Nazim

of the

Southern District.

The orders are

"

:

That on the

first

the month of Rabi-ul-Awal the sacred

God

willing,

arrangements

be brought into will

be

exactly

this

as

Friday in relics will,

city.

The

previously

thought preferable that the Gate and procession should march to the Imami then past the Sadr Manzil to the Moti Masjid. arranged,

Dated

of

but

the 25th

it

is

Safar 1322 A.

H."

To be brief, on the morning of Friday, the 4th Rabi-ul-Awal, the Nazim of the Southern Dis

trict,

the

Tahsildar

of

Tal,

and the

Police

in Bhopal Superintendent of Kalya Kheri arrived

Page

35i\

ASA MA Mosi

v

ri-:.

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

by the

8 o clock train, bringing with

promulgated beforehand that such

and men

officers

as

them

the

The order had been

them.

entrusted to

relics

353

of the military

had performed the pilgrimage

with us should take part in the reception cere

mony

wearing

military pagris

long,

and that

who had gone with

white tunics

loose,

of the

us to

and

civilians those

Medina

as well as to

Mecca should wear a white dress with a green turban, while those who had not been able to visit but only Mecca, should

Medina,

with white turbans.

dresses

In

wear

white

this distinctive

costume the returned pilgrims had been ordered to take part

the

men

of

in

Of the rest of

the ceremonial.

rank and position

in the State the

following joined in the reception,

Here follows a

list

of

namely

:

names divided

into

three classes according to rank.

Names family

of

the

Members

of

the

Royal

:

Mian Yasin Mohamad Khan Akil Mohamad Khan. Sadr Mohamad Khan. Fazil Mohamad Khan. Dost Mohamad Khan. ,,

,,

,,

PH

^3

THE STORY OF A

354

Mian Noor Mohamad Khan. Adil Mohamad Khan. ,, Dil Mohamad Khan. Kadar Mohamad Khan. ,, Shariff Mohamad Khan. Ashiq Hussain Khan. Ikbal Mohamad Khan. Hashmat All Khan. Saadat Mohamad Khan. Jalil Mohamad Khan. Abdul Rahman Khan. Velayet All Khan. Yar Mohamad Khan. Maksud AH Khan. ,, Mahfuz All Khan. Hayee Mohamad Khan. Mahmud All Khan. ,, Enayet All Khan. Abdul Samad Khan, ,,

,,

j,

,,

,,

,,

,,

,,

,,

alias ,,

,,

Salar Mian.

Mohamad Khan. Zaffar Mohamad Khan. Kamil Mohamad Khan. Rauff

Names ceremonies

of

the officers

who conducted

:

Moulvi Azam Hussain, Mr. Liakat AH. Munshi Abdul Rahim. Mr. Majid Hussain.

Mian Mohamad Ishaq. Hassan Abul Jawwad

of

Medina.

Peer Syed Tafazzul Hussain. Kari Mohamad Sulaiman.

Moulvi Abdul Haq Kamdar. Munshi Enayebullah Kamddr.

the

355

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Names

of the State officers Khan Bahadur Munshi Mumtaz Ali :

Khan

Moin-ul-

Moham, Revenue Officer. Khan Bahadur Moulvi Mohamad Nasiruddeen

Nasir-

ul-Maham, Judicial Officer.

Munshi

Israr

Faridullah

Hasan Khan

Khan,

Offg.

Commander-in-Chief of the

State Forces.

Munshi Ahmed Hasan Khan, Mir Munshi. Sheikh

Mohamad

Hasan,

Superintendent,

Collecting Department. Moulvi Serajul Haq. Munshi Mehdi Hasan, Superintendent, Pay Munshi Abdul Rauff Khan, Munshi of Peshi. Kazi Shamsuddeen, City Magistrate.

Arrears

Office.

Munshi Syed Mansab Ali, Munshi Rubkari. Rahman, Post Master-General, State Post

Hafiz Abdul Offices.

Hafiz Mazhar Hussain, Sub-Judge. M. Sakhawat Hussain, Private Secretary.

Golam

Kadir Khan, Superintendent, State Stables. Sardar Bahadur Major Karim Beg. Munshi Enayet Hussain Khan, Offg. Assistant to the

Revenue

Officer.

Munshi Mohamad Sulaiman, Sessions Judge. ,, Syed Kudrat Ali, Chief Gazetteer, Bhopal. ,,

Velayet Ali, Assistant Sessions Judge.

Hakim Syed Nurul Hasan, Chief Physician. Mohamad Hadi, Sadar Amin. Munshi Amjid Ali, State Account Officer. Abdul Kayyum, Superintendent, State Records. Dr. Sheikh Wali Mohamad. Abdul Kayyum Khan, Superintendent, State Police. Mirza Ayaz Ali Beg, Second Assistant to the Sessions Judge. Ali

Ahmed Khan,

Superintendent, P.W.D.

Moulvi Mozaffar Hussain.

356

THE STORY OF A Munshi Jameel Ahjmed. Syed Shabir Hussain, Munsiff. Mir Golam Kadir, Superintendent, Kotha. Iklasud-dowla, Mir Saman. Jawan Bakht, Superintendent, State Toshakhana.

Mohamad Akbar,

Superintendent, State Gardens.

Babu Izad Baksh, Mohamad Arham.

Translator.

Hafiz Karamatullah, Superintendent, State Press. Syed Ali Ahmed, Munsiff.

Abu

Saeed, Superintendent, Guest House.

Munshi Enayetullah, Superintendent of Mosques. Asgaryar Khan, Record-Keeper. Ahjnedshah Khan, Superintendent, Jewelleries. Nazim Ali, Superintendent of the Hindustani Guest Houses.

Abdul Batin, Superintendent Abdul Karim, Jailor.

Besides those civil

and military

of Ceremonies.

mentioned here

officers

following gentlemen

the other

all

were present except the

who had been ordered

attend at the Moti Masjid, namely

to

:

Maulvi Muhi-ud-din Khan, the State Kazi. Maulvi Muhammad Yahya, the State Mufti.

Maulvi Sayyid Zul-fikr Ahmed, member of the Ulama. Maulvi Inayatullah, member Ulama.

of

of the

Assembly

the Assembly of the

Maulvi Nazir-ud-din Ahmed, member of the Ulama.

of the

Assembly

Hafiz Abdul Aziz of the Sulaimani School.

When

the train arrived, the

relics,

which were

contained in a box encased in velvet embroi-

PILGRIMAGE TO HUAZ,

357

dered with gold which again was surmounted by a similar velvet

and gold covering, were taken

from the railway carriage, station

outside the

carried

and put on the elephant carrying an amari

embroidered with gold.

The Sahibzada Hamidullah Khan Bahadur

mounted the same amari, while Chunnu Khan, Keeper of the Palace Toshakhana, and another

man

sat,

one on each side of him, carrying the

The elephant started

peacock feathers of State.

followed by eight others used for pageants of this kind.

Then

came

Khan on an

Nasrullah

the

howdah, followed by

Muhammad similarly

Nawab

the

Ubaidullah

caparisoned.

elephant

Muhammad with

a

gold

Sahibzada Haji Hafiz

Khan on an Behind

these

elephant elephants

was an escort consisting of a squadron of cavalry and some squadrons of the Victoria Lancers. These were

followed by a squadron of

acting as a guard-of-honour order.

cavalry

and another to keep

Batteries of artillery in attendance, follow

ed by military music, brought up the rear.

band had companies

of infantry

act as an escort

to

and

The

on either side to

keep order.

358

THE STORY OF A Following this procession came the nobles

ana in

dignitaries of the State

who had taken

the ceremonial at the station.

were companies

Behind these

Garrison Artillery belonging

of

to the Forts which, in

native music.

part

turn,

were followed by

Then followed

in their order the

Zafr company, the Police force, the peons of the

and the peons attached

Forts, Municipal peons, to the

Customs Department.

The

mapped out reached

wore

relics

along

the

Moti

A

Mas] id where

On

number

the

of

given water from dates and sherbat

for our

In the evening the prominent

dignitaries of the State tr

fired

the same day we distributed

Rs. 2,000 to the poor as a thank -offering sale return.

were

they

eleven guns was

salute of

from Fatehgurh.

own

route

and, passing in front of our Palace,

the

deposited.

carried

were entertained at dinner These guests were

125.

Zamzam

drink

to

were served

to

band played during the function.

first

and then

them.

The

After this 12

different dishes of food were served to the guests.

This

is

the

list of

them

:

Sheep roasted whole Pillao

;

;

Fowls roasted whole

;

Parathas

;

Muzaffar (sweet Pillao)

;

(salt)

359

PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ.

Parathas (sweet); toasted bread; Shirmal

ma

Vegetable curry

;

rice

;

Kababs

;

Firni

;

Kor-

sort of

(a

and milk pudding). Atr and pan were distributed after dinner.

Some

of the dignitaries of

trie

highest rank were

given cases containing some special relics of the

These contained dates, a rosary of

Holy Land.

beads, water from

Zamzam,

pieces of silk cloth

and Arabic Abas and books.

On

the next day public

The

claimed.

On

the Moti Masjid.

removed

was pro

for eight

days in

the ninth day they were

to the Asafi Masjid with befitting cere

So long as they remained in the

mony. Masjid night.

remained

relics

holiday

men

Moti

them by day and women by

visited

Frankincense was constantly burnt

in

the Masjid to sweeten the atmosphere and at

night

wax

On the

candles were lighted.

evening of the 4th Rabi-ul-Awal the

undermentioned mosques were especially illu minated to celebrate the advent of the relics in

consequence

of

the whole city was

this

lit

illumination

up with a brilliant

;

nearly light.

360

THE STORY OP A PILGRIMAGE TO

Names

HIJAZ.

mosques illuminated

of the

:

Jainai Masjid (City).

Jamai Masjid (Jehangirabad). Moti Masjid. Mosque (in the Palace of Her

late

Highness

Kudsia Begam).

Mosque (Bhopal Ry. Station). Mosque (Police outpost Kamali). Mohamadi Masjid. Shamsul-Masajid. Sulairnani Masjid. Sultani Masjid.

Masjid Kabeet.

Mosque

(of

the late

Umrao Doola

Saheb).

Masjid Serai Jumarati. Masjid Hayat Afza Garden.

Masjid Atoonji. Masjid Badshah-Bahoo. Masjid Kallo Bua. Masjid Mankashah. Masjid Fatimahpura. Masjid Bagh Mokbara.

Masjid (in the garden

of the late Bilkis

Jehan

Begam).

The Khassa

mosques

belonging

to

also illuminated, a list of

follows: Masjid

Asafi.

Zainul-Masajid. Riazul-Masajid.

Masjid Nishat Afza Garden. Masjid Sultani.

the

which

Deori is

as

30:).

.IAMAI MAS.IIH