For Travelers
Who Want More Than
the Official Line!
Unofficial
GuidCo Washington,
Save Time 8c Money Best Hotel Values Joe Surkiewicz with Eve Zibart Plan Your Trip Online at
Frommers.com
J
IS
pu^
O .
L
IS
I.
PU3
o E 3 IS pJe
ES re
S
<Se -^ o E
o E
gS
a*
is
IS
ms IS
C7
me
isMuS:
c
ut
J
-i
Unofficial
Guide
®
to
Washington, D.C. 8th Edition
Also available from Wiley Publishing:
Beyond Disney:The Unofficial Guide to Universal, Sea World, and the Best of Central Florida Inside Disney:The Incredible Story of Walt Disney World
and the Man Behind the Mouse Mini LasVegas:The Pocket-sized Unofficial Guide to Las Vegas
Mini-Mickey:The Pocket-Sized Unofficial Guide to Walt Disney World
The The
Unofficial
Guide to Central Italy: Florence, Ronne, Tuscany, and Umbria
Unofficial
The
Unofficial
Guide to Chicago
The
UnofTicial
Guide to Cruises
The
The
Unofficial
Unofficial
Guide to England
The
Unofficial
Guide to Florida
Unofficial
The
Unofficial
The
The
Unofficial
The
The
Unofficial Unofficial
Guide to Maui
Guide to
Guide to
Unofficial
Unofficial
New Orleans New York City
Guide to Paris
Guide to San Francisco
Guide to Skiing
& Snowboarding
in
the West
Guide to South Florida, including Miami and the Keys
Unofficial
Unofficial
The
Unofficial
Unofficial
The
Guide to London
Guide to Mexico's Best Beach Resorts
The The
Guide to Hawaii
Guide to Las Vegas
Unofficial
The Unofficial
Guide to Florida with Kids
Unofficial
The
The
Guide to Disneyland
The
The
The
Guide to California with Kids
Guide to Walt Disney World
Guide to Walt Disney World for Grown-ups
Unofficial
Guide to Walt Disney World with Kids
Unofficial Guidcto Washington, D.c. 8th Edition Joe Surkiewicz with
Eve Zibart
WILEY
To D.
—
You're not getting older, you're just getting updated!
Please note that prices fluctuate in the course of time,
under the impact of many factors that influence the that
you write or
has been
made
and
travel
travel industry.
ahead for confirmation when making your
call
to ensure the accuracy of information
—
£. Z.
information changes
We
therefore suggest
travel plans.
throughout
this
Every effort
book, and the con-
tents of this publication are believed correct at the time of printing. Nevertheless, the lishers this
cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or for changes in
guide or for the consequences of any reliance on the information provided by the
same. Assessments of attractions and so forth are based upon the author's
and
pub-
details given in
therefore, descriptions given in this guide necessarily contain
may
opinion, which
not
reflect the publisher's
on another occasion. Readers
own
opinion or dictate a reader's
are invited to write the publisher
experience,
an element of subjective
own
experience
with ideas, comments, and
suggestions for future editions.
Published by:
&
John Wiley 1 1 1
Sons, Inc.
River Street
Hoboken, NJ 07030 Copyright
© 2005 by Robert W. Sehlinger and Joe Surkiewicz. All rights reserved. No part of
this publication
stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or
may be reproduced,
by any means,
electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise,
except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act,
without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through pay-
ment of
the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center,
MA
222 Rosewood
01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 750-4744, or on the web
at
by email
at
Wiley, the Wiley logo and Unofficial Guide are registered trademarks of John Wiley
&
Drive, Danvers,
www.copyright.com. You can contact the Publisher directly
[email protected] or on the web
at
for permission
www.wiley.com/about/permission.
Sons, Inc. in the United States and other countries
and may not be used without written
permission. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective
owners. John Wiley
& Sons,
Inc.
is
not associated with any product or vendor mentioned
in this book.
Produced by Menasha Ridge Press
Cover design by Michael Interior design
J.
Freeland
by Michele Laseau
For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at (800) 762-2974, outside the
U.S. at (317) 572-3993 or fax (317) 572-4002.
John Wiley
& Sons,
Inc. also publishes
content that appears in print
may
its
books
ISBN 0-7645-7557-0 Manufactured 5
4
3
2
in the 1
in a variety
of electronic formats.
not be available in electronic formats.
United States of America
Some
Contents
of Maps
List
x
About the Authors and Contributor
Introduction
I
Washington without the Hassle
About This Guide
How Come
2
"Unofficial"^.
Creating a Guidebook
How
1
2
3
Unofficial Guides Art Different
Special Features
How This Letters,
3
4
Guide Was Researched and Written
Comments, and Questions from Readers
How Information
Is
6
One Planning Your Visit to Washington
When
to
Go 29 When the Weather
Going
Avoiding Crowds
Is
Good
29
30
Trying to Reason with the Tourist Season Getting to Washington
Driving
Flying
33
34
Taking the Train
5
Organized:
By Subject and by Geographic Zones
Part
5
37
38
A Calendar of Festivals and Events
32-37
30
29
1
vi
11
Contents
Accommodations
PartTwo
Deciding Where to Stay
Some
Considerations
Getting a
Good Deal on
Where
4
41 41 a
Room
42 43
the Hotel Discounts Are
Helping Your Travel Agent Help You
Make Your
If You
How to
Own
48
Evaluate a Travel Package
49
Tips for Business Travelers
Lodging Convenient
Convention Rates:
46 47
Reservation
Washington Convention Center
to
How They Work and How to Do
Accommodations: Rated and Ranked What's in a Room?
5
Compare
Deals and Bad Deals
Not
All Visitors
A Convention
56
66
68-81
Accommodations Information Chart
PartThree Visiting
52
55
Ratings
How the Accommodations Good
49
5
Hotel and Motel Toll-free Numbers
Room
49
Better
Washington on Business Are Headed
for the
Mall
83
83
88-89
Center Calendar
The Washington Convention Center
90
Lodging within Walking Distance of the Convention Center
90
Parking at the Convention Center 9
Cabs and Shuttles
Lunch
Part Four
to the the
Alternatives for
Convention Center 91
Convention and Trade Show Attendees 91
Arriving and Getting Oriented
Coming
into the City
By Car
93
93
By Plane
94
By Train
99
A Geographic Overview of Washington City and
Two
States
D.C.'s Street Plan
Finding Your
Way
1
100 101
Things the Natives Already
The Metro: An Taxis Traffic
00
Know
Introduction
103 103
The Neighborhoods
104
1
02
102
100
93
Contents Customs and Protocol
1
The
108
Local Press
Telephones
109
Rooms
Rest
109
How to Avoid Crime and Crime
in
Having
a Plan
114
Self-defense
114
Carjackings
1 1
More Things
to
May Be
Safe in Public Places
1 1
1 1
Ripoffs and Scams
1 1
Avoid
Closer
The Homeless
Part Five
Keep
Washington
Personal Attitude
Help
06
108
Tips for the Disabled
115
Than You Think
1 1
116
Getting around Washington
Driving Your Car: Traffic
Hot
Parking
A Really Bad Idea
Spots
I
1
1 1
119
121
A Really Good Idea 121 A Clean, Safe Alternative 2 How to Ride the Metro 22 Metro Foibles and How to Cope 129
Riding the Metro:
1
1
Discounts and Special Deals
A Note about Metrobus Taxis
132
People with Special Needs
Part Six
131
132
133
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Plan before You Leave
Thinking
Home
137 138
in Categories
Putting Your Congressperson to
Operating Hours
Work
42
1
143
Rhythms of the City If You Visit
137
144
During Peak Tourist Season
Intragroup Touring Incompatibility:
What
It Is
and
How to Avoid It
Washington with Children
146
Washington's Top 20 Tours
1
Taking an Orientation Tour
52 155
Other Commercial Guided Tours
1
58
145
145
110
vii
1
viii
Contents
Part Six
Sight-seeingTips and Tours
Optimum Adult Touring The Red Line Tour
1
59
163
Touring Strategies Attractions
Plan
(continued)
63
1
Grouped by Metro
163
Station
Seeing Washington on a Tight Schedule
One-Day Touring 170
Helpflil Hints
A Worst-case Touring Scenario
1
70
171
Travel Tips for Tourists
Washington's Attractions
Where
to
Go
The National Mall
86
1
Zone
2:
Capitol Hill
Zone
3:
Downtow^n
Zone
4:
Foggy Bottom
Zone
5:
Georgetown
Zone
6:
Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan
Zone
7:
Upper Northwest
Zone
8:
Northeast
241
Zone
9:
Southeast
244
Zone
10:
Zone
11: Virginia
1
214 222 227 229
247
Maryland Suburbs Suburbs
230
237
250
253
Dining and Restaurants
Experiencing Washington Cuisine
The New Washington Cookery
253 253
258
Places to See Faces
The New Downtown Dining
260
The Restaurants 26 Our Favorite Washington Restaurants More Recommendations 269
Shopp in g
Mall Shopping
in
Flea Markets
Washington
335
335
Suburban Malls Malls in D.C.
261
274-334
Restaurant Profiles
Part Nine
79
179
Time-saving Charts
Part Eight
1
179
Zone
:
66
168
Excursions beyond the Beltway
Part Seven
1
166
335
337 337
Great Neighborhoods for Window-shopping
338
Contents Georgetown
338
Adams-Morgan and
U Street
339
Dupont Circle 341 Chevy Chase 342 342
Bethesda
343
Capitol Hill
Old Town Alexandria
343
343
Specialty Shops
PanTen Entertainment and Nightlife Washington
Nightlife:
More Than
Washington
in
Swing Your Partner
Espresso and Eight-ball
Part Eleven
367
367
The Sex Thing Profiles
36
365
367
Ashes to Ashes
More on
368
the Safety Thing
370
of Clubs and Nightspots
372-387
Exercise and Recreation
Working Out
389
389
Walking
389
Running
390
Swimming
393
Free Weights and Elliptical Trainers
and Aerobics
Fitness Centers
393
393
394
Tennis
Recreational Sports: Biking, Hiking, Kayaking, and So
394
Bicycling
Hiking
399
Boat Rides Skiing
400
400
Horseback Riding
Golf
401
401 401
Spectator Sports
A ppendixes
353
360
Live Pop, Rock, and Jazz
True Brews
353
Monuments
355
Legitimate Theater
Comedy
Lit-up
405
Accommodations Index Restaurant Index Subject Index
Reader Survey
408
411
419-420
405
On
394
ix
1
of Maps
List
Metro
Inside cover
8-9
Washington, D.C., Touring Zones
The National Mall
10-11
Zone
1
Zone
2:
Capitol Hill
Zone
3:
Downtown
Zone
4:
Foggy Bottom
Zone
5:
Georgetown
Zone
6:
Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan
Zone
7:
Upper Northwest
Zone
8:
Northeast
22
Zone
9:
Southeast
23
Zone
10:
Maryland Suburbs
Zone
1 1
Virginia Suburbs
:
:
12-13 14-15 16
17
18-19
20-21
24-25
26-27
Washington Convention Center
84-87
Washington, D.C., and Vicinity
95
Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport Washington-Dulles International Airport
Baltimore-Washington International Airport
Washington Old Town Trolley Capitol Hill
1
96
97 98
56
215
C&O Canal Towpath Trail Mount Vernon Trail
39
392
Washington and Old Dominion Railroad Regional Park Covered Bridge Bicycle Tour
397
Sugar Loaf Mountain Bicycle Tour
398
395
About the Authors and Contributor
Joe Surkiewicz has co-authored five titles in the Unofficial Guides series and written two guides to the best places to ride a mountain bike in the Mid-Atlantic
states.
Bureau of Maryland. selor,
is
up on the
Molly and
Kay
in Baltimore
Norma
Shearer,
The Unofficial Guide
"Weekend"
and Miriam Hopkins.
to
77?^ Unofficial
is
a feature writer
and restaurant
section of the Washington Post; she
also
when
Guide
to
New
Walt Disney Worldfor Grown-ups, and The critic for
drew on her intimate
knowledge of D.C.'s diverse after-hours scene and the dining spots
companions,
watch black-and-white movies starring 1930s fdm
Ethnic Food Lover's Companion, the
Aid
not traveling or bicycling, they enjoy evenings
Eve Zibart, author of several books including Orleans,
at the Legal
with his best friend and coun-
sofa with their black-and-white feline
Trixie, to
Francis,
communications director
He lives
Ann Lembo. When
curled
divas
Joe
area's vast
array of
writing our entertainment and restaurant sections. Eve
scoped out where to find the best deals for our chapter on shopping.
A native of the Baltimore suburbs, Alisa Bralove
is
a legal affairs writer for
Maryland's business and legal daily newspaper. The Daily Record. She and her husband. Rich Scherr, ally inspected
live in
more than 140
Owings
hotels
Mills,
and inns
Maryland. Alisa person-
for
our accommodations
chapter.
XI
Introduction
Washington without the Hassle Before
we begin rhapsodizing about
the joys of visiting Washington,
D.C., we have a small confession to make: Sometimes itors in It's
we
hate being vis-
D.C.
not that
we
are
immune
to the spell of this beautiful city
on the
Potomac. We've done our share of gaping in patriotic awe from the top of the Washington
Monument and
histrionics of long-winded
have witnessed in utter fascination the
United States senators ramrodding a pork bar-
project through Congress. For us, as for others, the locus of govern-
rel
ment
is
intoxicating.
We
thrive
polarity of powerful people
one of the most exciting
Where
else
on the constant tension
and
cities
on
ideas.
arising
from the
Washington, unquestionably,
is
the planet.
but in Washington can you watch fire-and-brimstone
politicians debate the rights of
men and women on
the floor of the U.S.
Senate or marvel at the eloquence of barristers arguing a case before the
Supreme Court
—
or discover, perhaps,
how
eavesdropping on a couple of veteran lobbyists
politics
really
works by
they plot strategy over
as
dry martinis in a hip Georgetown pub?
Then, of course, there the
city.
is
the beauty, the magnificence, the majesty of
America's capital city boasts
ments ever
some of the most stunning monumuseums and lush, verdant
created, as well as world-class
parks. Broad, shaded boulevards, meticulously laid out
L'Enfant, radiate like spokes from the heart of the stately plazas, ornate bridges,
Our problem with D.C. Washingtonian
and breathtaking very simple:
—
the sweltering
street plan, the
punctuated by
sculpture.
We cannot stand the peculiarly
hassles that routinely get in the
extraordinary city
Goldberg
is
by Pierre-Charles
city,
summer
way of enjoying this Rube
heat and humidity, the
agonizing lack of legal parking, the elbow-to-
elbow crowds that can wipe out your high
spirits
before lunch.
Introduction
2
In response, we've
become absolute
fanatics
when
it
comes
to
warning
away from Washington's worst torments. Here's the short Hst: long lines that never seem to move, lousy food (when D.C. boasts some of the finest restaurants on earth!), industrial-strength traffic
Washington
visitors
jams, outrageous prices for mediocre hotel rooms, bored tour guides that
herd tourists
sheep
like
.
.
.
We do get quite grumpy when It
doesn't have to be
This book
is
way
this
things go amiss
on
a
Washington
visit.
for you.
the reason why.
Its
primary purpose can be expressed
in exactly ten words: We're going to take the misery out of touring
Washington!
While we
when
guarantee great weather and small crowds, we'll
can't
tell
you
you've got the best chances of encountering both, and we'll give
you tons of information
that will save your feet
and your
wallet,
not to
mention your temper. do and see off the beaten track on the Mall invites heat stroke the best-known attractions. At the same time,
You'll also find suggestions for things to
on hot August afternoons when and when crowds flock
to
we'll introduce the best close, places
go
of what D.C. has to offer
where the people who
after hours:
We'll also
a stroll
tell
live
and work
in
afi:er
best places
around
museums like to
and nightspots.
the great ethnic restaurants, theaters,
you about the
the
Washington
to shop, walk, take a hike,
get a workout, or ride a bike.
This guide
is
ington to see places, city's
designed both for folks planning a family its
famous monuments,
and museums, and
worst
hassles.
The
side of Washington that
trip to
Wash-
of government, historic
halls
who want to avoid the how you can see a re-creation of a Roman cat-
for business travelers
Unofficial
most
Guide
also
visitors miss: a
acomb, $90 million worth of antiques gardens of a fabulously rich heiress,
in
one
among
shows
place,
and the mansion and
other things.
The bottom line: We'll help you see Washington like a native. Of we can't promise that your D.C. visit will be perfect. But this
course,
guidebook can help you eliminate most of the needless
irritations that so
frequently spoil the fun for Washington tourists.
And who knows? Maybe you'll discover, book, that
there's
nothing
left to
as
we
did while researching this
"hate" about being a
Washington
visitor!
About This Guide
How Come **Unofficiari Most "official" guides to Washington, D.C, tout the well-known sights, promote the local restaurants and accommodations indiscriminately, and leave out a lot of good stuff This one is different.
About This Guide Instead of pandering to the tourist industry, we'll
bad
at a
well-known restaurant,
and
rious high prices, a break
now and
we'll
is
the food
is
guide you away from the crowds and lines for
requires wily strategies not unlike those used in
performed
ate in the city's best restaurants,
and
if
We sent in a team of evaluators who toured each site,
the sacking of Troy.
hotels,
you
tell
complain loudly about D.C.'s noto-
then.
Washington
Visiting
we'll
3
evaluations of
critical
Washington's wide variety of nightclubs. If a
visited
its
museum
boring, or standing in line for two hours to view a famous attraction
we
a waste of time,
more
say so
fun, efficient,
—
and, in the process, hopefully
is
make your visit
and economical.
Creating a Guidebook
We way
got into the guidebook business because travel guides force the reader to
Wouldn't
it
we
be nice,
thought,
if
work
we were unhappy with
to get
we were
make
to
the
any usable information. guides that are easy
to use?
Most guidebooks
are compilations of
whether the information
is
presented in
through pages of prose. There
is
lists.
list
This
is
form or
true regardless of
artfully distributed
insufficient detail in a
list,
and prose can
present tedious helpings of nonessential or marginally useful information.
Not enough wheat,
much
so to speak, for nourishment in
one instance, and too
chaff in the other. Either way, these types of guides provide
little
more than departure points from which readers initiate their own quests. Many guides are readable and well researched, but they tend to be difficult to use. To select a hotel, for example, a reader must study several pages of descriptions with only the boldface hotel names breaking up large blocks
same
of
variables,
lar hotel.
Because each description essentially deals with the
text. it is
difficult to recall
what was
said concerning a particu-
Readers generally must work through
beginning to narrow their choices. nightclubs,
and
attractions
usually required.
To
is
The
from
the write-ups before
similar except that even
use such a guide
is
scratch.
more reading
to undertake
research process that requires examining nearly as sibilities as starting
all
presentation of restaurants,
many options and
Recommendations,
if
is
an exhaustive pos-
any, lack depth
and conviction. These guides compound rather than solve problems by failing to
narrow
well-distilled,
How
travelers' choices
and manageable
down
to a thoughtfully considered,
few.
Unofficial Guides Are Different
Readers care about the authors' opinions.
posed to
know what
The
authors, after
all,
are sup-
they are talking about. This, coupled with the fact
that the traveler wants quick answers (as
opposed
to endless alternatives).
Introduction
4
dictates that authors
The
should be expHcit, prescriptive, and above
authors of the Unofficial Guide try to do just that.
alternatives
and recommend
of action.
specific courses
all,
complicated destinations and attractions and allow the traveler to control in the most unfamiliar environments. ficial
Guide Siuthors
is
Unofficial
Guide
all
of the infor-
accessible, useful information.
a critical reference work;
is
feel in
objective of the Unof-
not to give the most information or
mation, but to offer the most
An
The
direct.
They spell out They simplify
it
on
focuses
destination that appears to be especially complex.
Our
a travel
experienced
authors and research team are completely independent from the attractions, restaurants,
ington, D.C.,
of it,
is
and
we
hotels
as well as for business travelers
visiting
D.C.
The Unofficial Guide
describe.
to
Wash-
designed for individuals and families traveling for the fun
for the first time.
consumer-oriented adults
who
and conventioneers,
The guide
is
especially those
directed at value-conscious,
seek a cost-effective, though not spartan,
travel style.
Special Features
The
Unofficial
Guide offers the following
Friendly introductions to Washington's
"Best of"
listings, giving
our
1
on
things ranging
from bagels
2-story views.
keyed to your interests, so you can pick and choose.
Advice to sight-seers on travelers
fascinating neighborhoods.
well-qualified opinions
to baguettes, 4-star hotels to Listings that are
most
special features:
how
on how to avoid
Recommendations
to avoid the worst of the crowds; advice to business
traffic
and excessive costs.
for lesser-known sights that are
away from the huge monuments
of the Mall but are no less spectacular.
A zone
system and maps to make
it
easy to find places you want to go to and
avoid places you don't.
Expert advice on avoiding Washington's notorious street crime.
A
Hotel Information Chart that helps you narrow
ing to
down your
choices
fast,
accord-
your needs.
Shorter
listings
that include only those restaurants, clubs, and hotels
we
think are
worth considering.
A
detailed index to help
Insider advice
you
on crowds,
find things fast.
lines,
best times of day (or night) to go places, and, our
secret weapon, Washington's stellar subway system.
What you
wontgtv.
Long, useless
lists
where everything looks the same.
Information that gets you
somewhere you want
Information without advice on
how
to use
it.
to go at the worst possible time.
About This Guide
How This Guide Was While
a lot
Researched and Written
of guidebooks have been written about Washington, D.C.,
very few have been evaluative.
and
the hotels'
5
tourist offices'
Some guides come close to own promotional material.
regurgitating
In preparing
work, nothing was taken for granted. Each museum, monument,
this
federal building, hotel, restaurant, shop,
and
was
attraction
by a
visited
team of trained observers who conducted detailed evaluations and rated each according to formal
with tourists of
criteria.
Team members conducted
ages to determine
all
during their Washington
While our observers
interviews
what they enjoyed most and
least
visit.
independent and impartial, they did not claim
are
to have special expertise. Like you, they visited
Washington
as tourists or
business travelers, noting their satisfaction or dissatisfaction.
The primary evaluator vation.
The
skills in
trained evaluator
is
organization, preparation,
responsible for
much more
observing and cataloging. While the average tourist stacks of
$20
bills at
the professional
how
and the trained
difference between the average tourist
the evaluator's
is
is
the Bureau of Engraving
and
is
gazing in awe at
Printing, for instance,
rating the tour in terms of the information provided,
quickly the line moves, the location of rest rooms, and
He
children can see the exhibits.
how
well
or she also checks out things like other
attractions close by, alternate places to go if the line at a is
and obser-
than simply
main
attraction
too long, and the best local lunch options. Observer teams use detailed
checklists to analyze hotel rooms, restaurants, nightclubs, tions.
Finally,
tourist reactions profile
and the opinions of patrons
for a
museum
we
recognize that a tourist's age, background,
and
over another.
Our
sole objective
is
to provide the reader with
and pertinent data
knowledgeable decisions according to individual
Letters,
Washington's wide
account for a preference for one sight or
will
sufficient description, critical evaluation,
to
make
tastes.
Comments, and Questions from Readers
expect to learn from our mistakes, as well as from the input of our
readers,
who
and
to
improve with each new book and edition.
Many of those
use the Unofficial Guides write to us asking questions,
ments, or sharing their ton.
comprehensive quality
interests will strongly influence his or her taste in
array of attractions
We
attrac-
of each feature and service.
In compiling this guide,
and
and
evaluator ratings and observations are integrated with
We
appreciate
own
all
discoveries
and
making com-
lessons learned in
such input, both positive and
Washing-
critical,
and
encourage our readers to continue writing. Readers' comments and observations will frequently be incorporated into revised editions of the Unofficial Guide,
and
will contribute
immeasurably
to
its
improvement.
— 6
Introduction
How to Write
the Authors:
Eve
Joe,
The Unofficial Guide
Washington, D. C.
to
Box 43673
P.O.
Birmingham,
AL 35243
[email protected]
When
you write by mail, be sure to put your return address on your leton the envelope sometimes envelopes and letters get sepa-
—
ter as well as
rated.
And remember,
of time, so forgive us
our work takes us out of the if
our response
is
long periods
office for
delayed.
Reader Survey At the back of the guide you
will find a short questionnaire that
use to express opinions about your Washington naire out along the dotted line
How
Information
Is
and mail
it
visit.
to the
you can
Clip the question-
above address.
Organized:
By Subject and by Geographic Zones you
In order to give
fast access to
information about the
^f-j^
of Washing-
ton, we've organized material in several formats.
Since most people visiting Washington stay in one
Accommodations
hotel for the duration of their trip, hotels in charts, maps,
we have summarized our
coverage of
and rankings that allow you
ratings,
focus your decision-making process.
We
do not go on, page
to quickly after page,
describing lobbies and rooms which, in the final analysis, sound the same. Instead, tiate
one hotel from another: location,
amenities, and
concise table tions
we
is
cost.
much
concentrate on the specific variables that differen-
The accommodations
(page 57) and
all
room
size,
are
quality,
services,
compared by rankings
the vital information for
all
in a
accommoda-
provided in an extensive chart (pages 68-82).
Attractions
draw visitors
Attractions to
in a single trip.
—
historic buildings,
Washington, but
We
list
it's
them by type
mine what
to see
Restaurants
are the heart
art galleries
as well as location (see
and then evaluate each one, including These descriptions
museums,
practically impossible to see
its
them
all
page 180)
appeal to various age groups.
of this guidebook and help you to deter-
and when.
We
provide a lot of detail
when
it
comes
to restaurants.
more restaurant meals during your stay, and since not even you can predict what you might be in the mood for on Saturday night, we provide detailed profiles of the best restaurants in and around Washington. They are also listed by cuisine and location Since you will probably eat a dozen or
(profiles,
pages 274-334).
About This Guide Entertainment and Nightlife
Visitors frequently try several different
clubs or nightspots during their stay. Since clubs
and nightspots,
restaurants, are usually selected spontaneously after arriving in
ington, spots
we
believe detailed descriptions are warranted.
and lounges
in
Washington
Once
Geographic Zones there
becomes the
issue.
into geographic zones
Zone
1
7
The
like
Wash-
best night-
are profded as well (see page 372).
you've decided where you're going, getting
To help you do
that,
we have
and the suburbs into sub-zones:
divided the city
Zone I: The National Mall
ATTRACTIONS Arlington National Cemetery Arts and Industries Building (closed for renovations)
Bureau of Engraving and Printing
Corcoran Gallery of Art
DAR Museum Decatur House
Q Q jQ Q Q Q Q Q
Freer Gallery of Art
Hirshhorn Jefferson
10
Museum
Memorial
Lincoln Memorial
National Air and Space
Museum
National Aquarium National Gallery of Art-East National Gallery of Art-West
National National
Museum Museum
of African Art of
American History National
Museum
of the
American Indian
IQ
National Museum of Natural History
iN^ cpqRpr
National
World War
II
Memorial
Voice of America
The Octagon House Old Post
Office
Vietnam Veterans Memorial
Washington Monument
Tower
Renwick Gallery Roosevelt Memorial Sackler Gallery
Smithsonian Building (The Castle) U.S. Holocaust Memorial
Museum U.S. Department of the Treasury
ACCOMMODATIONS Channel Inn Hotel Loe\vs L'Enfant Plaza
Mandarin Oriental
NIGHTCLUBS Hard Rock Cafe Zanzibar
I
12
/n
II
0.125
0.25
Zone
MILES 0.25
2:
Capitol Hill 0.5
N
A
KILOMETERS
M ATTRACTIONS Folger Shakespeare
Library Library of Congress
National Postal
Museum
U.S. Botanic Garden
U.S. Capitol U.S. Supreme
Union
Coun
Station
ACCOMMODATIONS
O o
Holiday Inn Capitol Phoenix Park Hotel
RESTAURANTS La CoUine
Montmartre
BHdBSS ^rnn r^rnr
NIGHTCLUBS Dubliner
11
13
ATTRACTIONS FBI Ford's Theatre/Petersen
House
Museum Koshland Science Museum National Building Museum International
Spy
National Geographic Society
National
Museum
Women
of
in the Arts
ACCOMMODATIONS
o o
Best Western Capitol Hill
Capitol Hilton
Comfort Inn Downtown Four Points Sheraton Downtown
Grand Hyatt Washington Hamilton Crowne Plaza
(D Hay-Adams
14
Hotel
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ @ ^ @
Hilton Garden Inn
HoUday Inn Downtown Holiday Inn on the Hill Hotel George
Hotel
Monaco
Hotel Washington
Hyatt Regency Capitol Hill
J.W. Marriott Hotel Jefferson Hotel
Lincoln Suites
Madison Hotel Marriott Metro Center
Red Roof Inn Downtown Renaissance Mayflower Hotel
Residence Inn Vermont Avenue Sofitel Lafayette St.
Regis
Washington Court Hotel
t:^ NSt.
MSt.
KSt.
gfmc
Washington Plaza Hotel
Jaleo
Washington Renaissance
Le Paradou
Hotel
Ocean aire
Wiilard Intercontinental
Old
The Wyndham
Ortanique
Washington
Ebbitt Grill
Red Sage Taberna
del Alabardero
RESTAURANTS
Teatro Goldoni
Andale.
TenPenh
Austin Grill
Tosca
Bistro Bis
Zaytinya
Burma
Zola
Cafe Adantico/Minibar
^^
Courduroy
NIGHTCLUBS
D.C. Coast
The Improv
Equinox
Ozio
Georgia Brown's
Platinum
Gerard's Place
15
Zone
0.125
4:
0.25
Foggy
Bottom
ATTRACTIONS JPK Center
for
Performing Arts
U.S. Dept. of Interior
U.S. State Dept. Diplomatic
Reception
Rooms
o o o
River Inn State Plaza Hotel
Watergate Hotel
RESTAURANTS
ACCOMMODATIONS
o o V
16
',:i/„.
.,;.i^j^^
^
Hotel Lombardy
One Washington Hotel
Kaz Sushi
Circle
Kinkead's
Bistro
Zone 5: Georgetown
an ATTRACTION Dumbarton Oaks and Gardens
O ®
Washington
Suites
Georgetown
The Westin Grand
Pizzeria Paradiso
Rocklands Saveur
ACCOMMODATIONS Four Seasons Hotel
o o o o o o
Georgetown Inn
RESTAURANTS ^J^
«
Sea Catch
Austin Grill
1789
Bistro Fran^ais
Sushi-Ko Zed's
Hotel Monticello
Cafe Divan
The Latham Hotel
Cafe Milano
The Melrose Hotel
Citronelle
NIGHTCLUBS
La Chaumiere
Blue Gin
Melrose
Blues Alley
Park
Hyan
Ritz-Carlton Georgetown
17
Zone
6:
Dupont
Circle/
Ad am s-M o rgan
MILES 0.125
0.25
KILOMETERS
18
Zone 7: Upper Northwest
IM
V'-^^^^^jwrnmom^mM, 20
Zone
8:
Northeast N
A
ATTRACTIONS Basilica
of the National Shrine
of the Immaculate Conception Franciscan Monastery
U.S. National Arboretum
0.25 0.5
Benning Rd Station
Fort
Dupont Park
22
ATTRACTIONS Anacostia
Museum
Frederick Douglass
Zone
9:
Southeast
0.25
0.5
23
ATTRACTIONS NASA/Godard Space
Flight Center
National Cryptologic
Museum
National Wildlife Visitor Center
ACCOMMODATIONS American Inn of Bethesda
Q ^ ^ ^ ® ^ ®
Holiday Inn Select Bethesda Holiday Inn Chevy Chase
Hohday Inn
Silver Spring
Hyatt Regency Bethesda Marriott Hotel Bethesda
Quality Inn College Park
Residence Inn Bethesda
Bethesda Court Hotel
o o o
24
Courtyard
New Carrollton
RESTAURANTS
Four Points Sheraton Bethesda
Addie's
Hilton of Silver Spring
Athenian Plaka
Austin Grill
Persimmon
Bangkok Garden
Tako
Benjarong
Tara Thai (two locations)
Black's Bar
Bombay
& Kitchen
Bistro
Good Fortune
Grill
Taste of Saigon Tavira
Thai Farm
Grapeseed
Green Papaya Jaleo
NIGHTCLUBS Dave & Buster's
Jean-Michel
Half Moon Bar-B-Que
Le Mannequin Pis
Yacht Club of Bethesda
Old
Angler's Inn
25
:
Zone
I
I
Virginia
Suburbs
26
Part One
Planning Your Visit
Washington
to
When to Go Going When the Weather The
best times to visit
weather
is
Washington
Good
bloom
in late
March
a show.
fall,
The
when
city's
or early April, while
fall
the
fabled
brings
weather and, by mid-October, a spectacular display of gold,
orange, and red leaves.
The summers and humid. they sprint
and
are in the spring
most pleasant and nature puts on
cherry blossoms crisp, cool
Is
— mid-June
through September
—
can be brutally hot
and August not only contend with the heat as from building to building, but also must endure the city's
Visitors in July
heavy reliance on August, with
air
conditioning that often reaches meat-locker
predictably oppressive heat,
its
is
the
chill.
month when Wash-
ingtonians leave town in droves.
Washington's winter weather, on the other hand,
mid-60s days are possible through December. While
it
is
erratic.
teens in January
and February, midday temperatures can climb
and
the season to beat the crowds.
50s.
This
March
is
into the 40s
While warm daytime temperatures are frequent, somemoist air mass moving north from the Gulf of Mexico will
tricky.
times a large, collide
is
Balmy,
often gets into the
with a blast of
frigid air
from Canada. The
snowfall that paralyzes the city for days. ness, that the prediction
(It
result
is
a big,
should be noted, in
wet
all fair-
of snow can paralyze D.C.)
Washington weather can run the gamut from subzero (rarely), to mild (most of the winter, some of the summer, and most of the spring and fall), to scorchingly hot and unbearably humid (most of July and August). See the boxed table,
on page 31, of the
city's
average monthly temperatures,
in degrees Fahrenheit.
29
.
30
Part
Planning Your Visit to Washington
One
Avoiding Crowds on weekends than weekdays,
In general, popular tourist sites are busier
summer
Saturdays are busier than Sundays, and
The
attractions are
the
is
busier than winter.
best days for avoiding big crowds at Washington's
week
Monday through Wednesday. Crowds
progresses, with the
During the
volume of
busiest tourist seasons, spring
most popular
begin to increase as
peaking on Saturday.
visitors
and summer, major Washing-
ton tourist attractions are always crowded between 9:30 a.m. and 3 p.m.
For people in town on business,
means heavier
this tourist influx
congested airports, a packed Metro
.
.
.
and
traffic,
tough time finding a con-
a
venient hotel room.
Driving in weekday rush hours, featuring at
short-tempered bureaucrats clawing their be avoided
at all costs.
their families
the
become
On weekends,
way
least
100,000
to office or
frantic,
home, should
the same government workers and
tourists, often creating
midday
during
traffic snarls
warmer months.
If you're driving to
Washington, try to time your
or during a non-rush hour time
row window
—
around 9:30 a.m. and
that opens
around 3 p.m. Afternoon
arrival
on
a
weekend
before 7 a.m. or during a rather nar-
traffic doesn't
starts to close
quickly
begin to clear up until at least
6:30 p.m. Friday afternoon rush hours are the worst: Don't even think of driving near
D.C.
until after 8 p.m.
TO BEAT THE CROWDS
. .
Avoid the worst tourist seasons: the Cherry Blossom
Festival (early spring)
and mid-summer. Hit major Mall attractions on v/eekdays or Sunday.
Avoid driving 7
in
rush hour (which
in
D.C. means 7 a.m. to 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. to
p.m.).
Get
off the Mall
and
visit
Georgetown, Dupont
Circle,
or downtown attractions.
Trying to Reason with the Tourist Season Whether
you're in
town on business or
pleasure,
aware of when the big crowds of tourists are
it's
likely to
a
good
idea to be
be jamming up the
Metro, the sidewalk, or the place you've picked for lunch.
The cially,
best time to avoid crowds entirely
the Mall
is
nearly deserted and
is
in winter.
On weekdays espe-
museums, monuments, and nor-
mally crowd-intensive hot spots like the Capitol are nearly empty
—except scarcity
for the people
who work
there.
Furthermore, the
relative
of tourists in the off-season eliminates the worst of D.C. 's
gridlock, except during peak rush hours.
traffic
When
to
Go
WASHINGTON'S AVERAGE MONTHLYTEMPERATURES
31
32
Part
Planning Your Visit to Washington
One
A CALENDAR OF FESTIVALS AND EVENTS Washington hosts
throughout the year:
a variety of special events
celebrations, parades, shows, festivals, tours, film
What
ceremonies.
follows
is
and
a listing of some of D.C.'s
well-known annual events. For exact
and most popular and
dates, times, locations,
phone numbers provided before your
sion fees, call the tional information
on
special events, log
on
to
fairs,
jazz festivals,
and admis-
visit.
For addi-
www.washingtonpost.com
or www.washington.org before you hit town.
January Robert
E. Lee's
War Colonel
The
Birthday Celebration
birthdays of Revolutionary
Light Horse Harry Lee and his son, Robert E. Lee, are
celebrated at the Lee-Fendall
Home
House and The Boyhood
E. Lee in Alexandria, Virginia. Refreshments, period music,
Admission
fee.
of Robert
house tours.
(703) 548-8454.
February
The nations largest parade celOld Town Alexandria. Free.
George Washington's Birthday Parade ebrating our
first
president takes place in
(703) 991-4474.
March More than 6,000
National Cherry Blossom Festival trees
to
bloom from
late
March
Washington. The Cherry Blossom
floats,
Japanese cherry
to early April, bringing springtime splendor
and VIPs. Other events include
Festival Parade features princesses, free concerts, the
Japanese Lantern
Lighting Ceremony, the Cherry Blossom Ball, and an annual marathon.
The parade
hotline
is
(202) 619-7222 or go to www.nationalcherry
blossomfestival .org.
Kite makers and flyers of
Smithsonian Kite Festival the Washington Free. (202)
Monument
ages gather at
all
grounds to compete for prizes and trophies.
357-3030.
The Longest Lines Unlike Disney World, a tourist destination with which Washington shares
some
similarities,
D.C. has only
require enduring long queues
FBI (now closed
—most
for renovations).
a handful of attractions that
notably, the U.S. Capitol
Even
ning can virtually guarantee you won't spend hours standing in If your visit to
Washington must coincide with the heavy
read on: There are ways to
make
it
more
and the
at these, a little judicious planline.
tourist season,
tolerable, in spite
of the record
A
Calendar of Festivals and Events
33
April
White House Easter Egg
For children ages 3-6 accompanied by
Roll
an adult. Eggs and entertainment provided. Children of other ages gather on the South Lawn of the White House. Free. (202) 456-2200.
Tour the beautiful gardens of the
White House Spring Garden Tours presidential
home.
Free. (202)
456-2200.
A
William Shakespeare's Birthday events, food,
and
day of music,
theater, children's
exhibits at the Folger Shakespeare Library. Free. (202)
544-4600.
May Memorial Day Ceremonies at Arlington National Cemetery Wreathlaying ceremonies at the Kennedy grave site, a presidential wreath-laying at the Tomb of the Unknowns, and services at the Memorial Amphitheater featuring military
bands and a presidential keynote address.
Free.
(202) 697-213 L
Memorial Day Ceremonies at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial Wreathlaying, speeches, military bands, and a keynote address. Free. (202) 6197222. National
Law Enforcement
ors America's fallen
names
Officers
law enforcement
Memorial Candlelight Vigil officers; official
being added to the memorial, located
and Fikh
Streets,
NW.
Free. (202)
on E
Fion-
dedication of
Street
new
between Fourth
737-3400.
Washington National Cathedral Flower Mart
Each year
different country, with flower booths, entertainment,
is
a salute to a
and decorating
demonstrations. Free. (202) 537-6200.
June American festival
Folklife Festival
of American music,
More than one crafts,
million people attend this
and ethnic foods on the National Mall
each year. Free. (202) 357-2700.
crowds jamming the Mall, the popular museums, portation,
tion
on
and highways. Check
transportation,
and
Part Five (page
1
eateries,
public trans-
19) for detailed informa-
Part Six (page 137) for pages of sight-seeing tips.
Getting to Washington Folks planning a trip to our nation's capital have it
comes
some options when
to getting there: by car, train, or plane. Your distance from
Washington
—and your
tolerance for hassles such as Capital Beltway
34
Part
Planning Your Visit to Washington
One
A CALENDAR OF FESTIVALS AND EVENTS
(continued)
June (continued) Barbecue Battle
Serious competition, cooking demonstrations, free
samples, children's activities. Pennsylvania
and 14th
Capital jazz Fest
Three days of
national acts, workshops, food,
land suburbs. sion
fee.
Avenue
NW between Ninth
(301) 860-0630.
Streets.
Check out
their
live,
contemporary
and juried
Web
site at
crafts.
jazz featuring top
Held
in D.C.'s
Mary-
www.capitaljazz.com. Admis-
(202) 737-2300.
Dupont-Kalorama Museum Walk Day
Celebration of collections by six
institutions in the area. Activities include textile demonstrations, video
programs, interactive tours, hands-on art programs, historic house tours, food, and crafts. Shuttle service provided. Free. (202) 667-0441.
July National independence Day Celebration
matic readings, a parade
down
(July 4)
A
full
day of dra-
Constitution Avenue, a demonstration of
colonial military maneuvers, entertainment at the Sylvan Theatre, a con-
by the National Symphony Orchestra, and a spectacular fireworks
cert
display over the
Washington Monument.
Soap Box Derby
Soap-box
cars roll
Free. (202)
down
619-7222.
Constitution Avenue between
New Jersey and Louisiana Avenues in Capitol
Hill. Free. (202)
670-1 110.
August Legg Mason Tennis Classic For
tickets, call
Top pro
tennis action in
Rock Creek
Park.
(202) 397-SEAT. For info, go to v^n^n^v.leggmasontennis
classic.com.
U.S.
Army
A concert and pageant at on the Washington Monument grounds. Free. (202)
Band's 1812 Overture Concert
the Sylvan Theatre
208-1631.
gridlock and inconveniently located airports
—
which mode of transportation you ultimately Arriving and Getting Oriented,
will
probably determine
take. (See also Part Four,
p. 93.)
Driving
A
lot
else
of people
who
live in the
populous Eastern Seaboard or anywhere
within a 12-hour drive of D.C. automatically
jump
in the family car
Getting to Washington
35
Summer-long Activities
C&O
Canal Mule-drawn Boat Rides
through October) Mule-
(April
Georgetown and Great Falls, Virginia. Costumed Park Service guides accompany each 60-minute trip, telling the canal's history through stories and song. Admission fee. (301) 299-3613.
drawn barge
rides in
Military
Band Summer Concert Series
Outdoor concerts held every
summer
evening (except Saturdays), from
Memorial Day through Labor
Day, beginning
at 8
p.m. Free. Concerts are held on a rotating basis on the
steps of the U.S. Capitol, the Sylvan Theatre (on the grounds of the
Monument) and
ington
the
Navy Memorial
Avenue). For the current schedule, U.S.
Army
1;
U.S.
Navy Band,
or
Band,
Army Band
holds
its
"Twilight Tat-
7 p.m. on the Ellipse (near die White House) on Wednesdays;
more information on
(202) 685-2852. For visit
Own" Marine
(202) 433-2525; U.S. Air Force Band,
(202) 767-5658. In addition, the U.S. too" at
the service-band information lines:
call
Band, (202) 696-3399; "The President's
(202) 433-401
Wash-
Plaza (on Pennsylvania
concerts, call (202)
685-4989
www.army.mil/armyband. west
Monday
U.S.
Tuesday
U.S. Army Band, various locations
Navy Band,
U.S. Capitol,
U.S. Air Force Band, U.S. Capitol, U.S.
Wednesday
Friday
Navy Band, Navy Memorial
west side
Plaza
Marine Band, U.S. Capitol 7 p.m. on the
U.S. Army
Band "Twilight Tattoo"
U.S. Army
Band, U.S. Capitol, west side
U.S. Air Force Band, Sylvan
Sunday
side
at
Ellipse
Theatre
Marine Band, Sylvan Theatre
Navy Memorial Concerts on the Avenue Series Beginning on Memorial Day at 8 p.m. and continuing each Tuesday evening at 8 p.m. through Labor Day At the U.S. Navy Memorial on Pennsylvania U.S.
Avenue.
Free. (202)
433-2525.
when embarking on
a vacation to
Washington.
And no
wonder: Even
though gasoline prices have increased, a nearly complete interstate highway system makes the car trip both easy and inexpensive. The problem, however,
is
when you
arrive in
Washington ...
or, to
be more exact,
when you hit the notorious Capital Beltway that surrounds the between 7 a.m. and 10 a.m. or in
city in
on a weekday morning the afternoon from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m.
the Maryland and Virginia suburbs. Arrive
Pan One
36
Planning Your Visit to Washington
A CALENDAR OF FESTIVALS AND EVENTS
(continued)
September Kalorama House and Embassy Tour Tour selected homes and Woodrow Wilson House. Admission fee. (202) 387-
embassies and the
4062,
ext. 18.
Kennedy Center Prelude
The John
Festival
Performing Arts celebrates the
with
arts
F.
Kennedy Center
free concerts
for the
and performances.
(202) 467-4600; w^ww. kennedy-center.org.
October
An
Marine Corps Marathon
world-class marathoners. Starts
Arlington. Registration
Taste of D.C. Festival
and ethnic
fee.
finishes at the
attracts
thousands of
Iwo Jima Memorial
in
(800) RUN-USMC.
The
best of D.C.'s vast array of restaurant food
one of the
cuisine;
annual event that
and
city's
most popular outdoor
Free
festivals.
admission; purchase tickets for food tastings. (202) 789-7002; www.taste ofdc.org.
White House Fail Garden Tours View the Rose Garden and Lawn to the sounds of a military band. Free. (202) 456-2200.
the South
November Veteran's tery.
Day Ceremonies
Solemn ceremony with
(November
1 1)
Arlington National
military bands to
honor the
Ceme-
nation's
war
dead. (202) 685-2951. Additional ceremonies at the Vietnam Veterans
Memorial on the National Mall, (202) 619-7222; Mount Vernon, (703)
and
why Washington
you'll discover
tion rivaled only by
ing rush hours and
New York and is
has a reputation for
conges-
traffic
Los Angeles: Traffic inches along dur-
astonishingly heavy the rest of the day and
warm-weather weekends
as well. It
on
only gets worse the closer you get to
the Mall. Washington's peculiar geography and eighteenth-century street layout, coupled with unremitting urban
and suburban growth, makes
touring by car almost impossible. Street parking near popular tourist sights
is
If at
all
and parking garages, while
severely limited,
town D.C,
are expensive
possible, leave the car at
tions are excellent,
And where
and
plentiful in
down-
and often inconvenient. Our recommendation:
its
home. Washington's
Metro subway system
is
air
and
rail
connec-
one of the best
in the
—
Metro won't take you Georgetown, Mount Vernon, and the Washington National Cathedral come to mind plentiful
world.
the
—
cabs and commercial touring outfits will. If you do drive, arrive
on
a
Getting to Washington
37
780-2000; and the U.S. Navy Memorial on Pennsylvania Avenue, (202) 737-2300.
Free.
December An American Holiday Celebration A holiday music show by the U.S. Army Band at DAR Constitution Hall. Free, but tickets are required to assure seating. After
September
or
An American HoUday Cele-
only, w^rite to:
bration, Building 42, Ft. Leslie].
McNair, Washington, D.C. 20319-5050;
(202) 685-2851 for information.; (866) 239-9425 for reservations.
call
Historic Alexandria Candlelight Tours
Visit
Lloyd House, Gadsby's
Tavern Museum, the Lee-Fendall House, and the Carlyle House in Old
Town Alexandria.
Music, colonial dancing, period decorations, and light
refreshments. Admission
(703) 838-4242.
foe.
National Christmas Tree Lighting/Pageant of Peace
the end of the year, the Ellipse a nativity scene, a
Christmas
is
burning yule
trees representing
\v^ww. pageantofpeace.org.
the
site
of nightly choral performances,
and
a spectacular display of lighted
Pearl
Harbor Day
(December
7)
Pearl Harbor. Free. (202)
Metro
territory. Free.
Wreath-laying ceremony
Nav)^ Memorial on Pennsylvania Avenue to
commemorate
(202) 619-
at the
U.S.
the attack
on
737-2300.
to miss the worst traffic, or very early or late
at a hotel
president
log,
each state and
7222;
weekend
The
National Christmas Tree near the White House. Through
lights the giant
on
a
weekday. Stay
with off-street parking and within easy walking distance to a
station.
Use public transportation and leave the
through most of your
car parked
stay.
Taking the Train Washington's gleaming Union Station, recently refurbished and the
most
number
two),
an excellent
is
city's
Museum
is
only one of the reasons that taking the train to D.C.
is
visited tourist attraction (the National Air
idea.
Another
is
and Space
convenience: Folks living along the East
Coast from Boston to Miami are served daily by Amtrak, and
lots
of peo-
ple living east of the Mississippi are close to direct rail service into the nation's capital. (In arrive in
some
Washington
cases
you can board the
in the morning.)
train in the evening
From Union
and
Station you're only
38
Part
Planning Your Visit to Washington
One
minutes from a downtown hotel by cab. Because of the traffic
need
—and
—
for a car
vided a
listing
it's
way
the smart
of some major
service to Washington's
the
city's
exasperating
a public transportation system that virtually eliminates the
Union
number of trains running
to travel to
cities
Washington. We've pro-
with direct Amtrak passenger train
Station (the frequency of service indicates in both directions).
For schedules and reservations,
call
Amtrak
at
(800) 872-7245 or
www.aintrak.com.
AMTRAK PASSENGER TRAIN ReglonlCity
Distance
SERVICE TO WASHINGTON
Travel Time
Frequency
visit
— Getting to Washington
39
some odd restrictions: Planes aren't White House and other sensitive places, so all are routed over the Potomac River; no planes are
closeness to the city has resulted in
allowed to
fly
over the
approaches and
takeofiFs
allowed to take off or land land or take off an hour;
only 37 large
late at night;
and
to and from National to a distance of 1,250 miles or
no international connections, think of National
allowed to
jets are
a "perimeter rule" restricts
nonstop
less.
With
flights
virtually
the "East Coast,
as
short-hop" airport. If you can't get a direct flight into National from your
hometown, consider making National.
It
probably be
will
a
connection that will get you into
faster
—and
more convenient
certainly
than flying into either of the other two airports that serve Washington.
While Reagan
is
our
first
choice for travelers flying into D.C.,
proximity to the bustling city creates problems for the unwary incredibly congested by heavy
parking
is
traffic.
Parking
and renting a
a long bus ride away;
and driving into D.C.
The good
can be a drawn-out, frustrating experience.
terminal should help reduce the curbside congestion.
town
are reasonable; free shuttles can get
or so; and National has
its
own Metro
Dulles International Airport,
wonder: car
It's
as
news:
Cab
A
$1 billion
fares to
down-
your hotel in a half-hour
to
stop.
the other hand,
is
rarely congested.
No
located in the boonies of Virginia, a solid hour fi-om the city by
and with no
known
on
you
close
expensive; long-term
is
car
its
flyer: It's
direct public transportation
downtown. Dulles
an international hub, although domestic
flights
is
primarily
are
on the
1996 doubled the main sly marketing move a few
increase (spurring a construction project that in terminal's size to 1.1 million square feet). In a
became Baltimore/Washington
years back, Baltimore's Friendship Airport
International Airport (BWI).
It
worked: 2000 was a record-breaking year
for this ever-expanding air hub. Southwest, for example, has increased
its
low-cost service to 65 flights a day, attracting a lot of travelers to Washing-
ton
who would otherwise drive. BWI
national market, this
and
busy airport
is
means D.C. -bound the
in still
1997 opened
is
also aggressively
closer to Baltimore than to
tourists face at least a
Washington Monument comes into
arriving at
MARC)
BWI
is
to take the train:
and Amtrak connect
takes almost an hour,
BWI
though
—
pursuing an inter-
a $1 10 million international pier. Yet
Washington, which
50-minute car or van ride before view.
Another option
Mar)dand commuter to D.C.'s
Union
rail
Station.
for folks
service (called
The
train ride
hardly convenient for tourists itching to
explore the marble edifices lining the Mall.
.
Part
Tv/
Accommodations
Deciding Where to Stay On
weekdays, driving and parking in
On
marish.
extremely
way
weekends there
is
downtown Washington traffic
less
difficult, particularly in the area
to get
around Washington
is
are night-
congestion, but parking
is
of the Mall. Because the best
on the Metro, we recommend a hotel With two rather prominent
within walking distance of a Metro station. exceptions,
all
of Washington's best
and Maryland suburbs,
are safely
areas, as well as
most of the Virginia
and conveniently
accessible via this
modern subway system. Only historic Georgetown and the colorful, ethnic Adams-Morgan neighborhood are off-line. Unless you plan to spend most of your time in Georgetown, we suggest that you pick a hotel elsewhere in the city. If you lodge in Georgeclean,
town, you will be reduced to driving or cabbing to get anywhere else. Adams-Morgan, a great neighborhood for dining and shopping, does not offer much in the way of lodging. If you go to Adams-Morgan, especially at night, take a cab.
Some 1
Considerations
When is
choosing your Washington lodging, make sure your hotel
situated in a location convenient to your recreation or business
needs,
and
that while
that it is
it is
in a safe
and comfortable
tion Center (the major convention venue)
downtown
area. Please
note
not practical to walk to the Washington Conven-
hotels, larger conventions
from many of the
and trade shows provide
shuttle service. 2.
Find out
how
renovated.
brochure.
old the hotel
is
and when the guest rooms were
Request that the hotel send you
Ask
if
its
last
promotional
brochure photos of guest rooms are accurate and
current.
41
42
Accommodations
PartTwo
If
3.
If
you
few
a
all;
are not a city dweller, or if
on
a hotel
street
and high up.
you
at
a
more
of Washington
on
are
some charge
dearly for park-
offer free parking.
book
Much
5.
no parking
hotels offer
and
ing; 4.
to take a car, inquire about the parking situation.
you plan
Some
you
are a light sleeper, try to
quiet side street.
Ask
quite beautiful, as
is
is
the
Potomac
room on
a romantic holiday, ask for a
room
for a
off the
River. If
a higher floor
with a good view.
When
6.
you plan your budget, remember
that there
is
a
14.5%
hotel tax (including sales tax) in the District of Columbia.
Washington
7.
States. If
one of the busiest convention
is
your
visit to
cities in
major conventions or trade shows, hotel rooms
and expensive. visit to
at
If,
the United
Washington coincides with one or more
on the other hand, you
will
be both scarce
are able to schedule
your
avoid big meetings, you will have a good selection of hotels
reasonably competitive prices. If you happen to be attending
one of the big conventions, book listed visit,
early
below to get a discounted room
we have
Getting a
and use some of the
rate.
To
assist in
tips
timing your
included a convention and trade show calendar.
Good Deal on
a
Room
Though Washington, D.C., is a major tourist destination, the economics of hotel room pricing is driven by business, government, and convention trade. This translates to high "rack rates" (a hotel's published room rate) and very few bargains. The most modest Econo Lodge or Days Inn in Washington charges from $84 such
as
to
$139
a night,
and mid-range chains,
Holiday Inn and Radisson, ask from $129 to $229.
The good news
is
that Washington, D.C.,
land suburbs offer a staggering
and
its
Virginia and Mary-
number of unusually fine hotels, includThe bad news, of course, is that
ing a high percentage of suite properties.
you can expect In
most
to
pay dearly to stay
the better
cities,
the city center, with
less
in
them.
and more expensive
hotels are located close to
expensive hotels situated farther out. There
normally a trade-off between location and
is
price: If you are willing to stay
commute into downtown, you can expect to your suburban room than you would for a downtown room.
out off the interstate and
pay
less for
In Washington, D.C., unfortunately, In the greater thing.
No
Washington
matter
how
far
it
very rarely works this way.
area, every hotel
you
are
is
seemingly close to some-
from the Capitol, the Mall, and down-
town, you can bank on your hotel being within spitting distance of some bureau, agency, airport, or industrial complex that funnels platoons of
Getting a business travelers into guest
accommodation
every
rooms
has
Mall but
stays full
Where Special
for
example,
with
is
1
nearby National Institutes of Health.
Weekend Rates it's
tough
are
not impossible to get a good deal,
starters,
40%
5 to
usual
30 to 40 minutes away by car from the
visitors to the
some
for the budget-
at least relatively speak-
hotels that cater to business, government,
convention travelers offer special weekend discount
specials
the
Beltway and
the Hotel Discounts Are
conscious,
For
43
Because almost
in a constant flow.
own captive market, apply. The Marriott at the
Although well-located Washington hotels
ing.
a Roonn
its
proximity/price trade-off doesn't
Wisconsin Avenue,
Good Deal on
below normal weekday
rates.
You can
rates that
find out about
by calling individual hotels or by consulting your
and
range from
weekend
travel agent.
Getting Corporate Rates
Many hotels offer discounted corporate rates you do not need
to
work
for a large
(5 to
company
20% off rack).
Usually
or have a special relation-
ship with the hotel to obtain these rates. Simply call the hotel of your rates. Many hotels will guarantee you phone when you make your reservation. Othconditional on your providing some sort of bona
choice and ask for their corporate the discounted rate ers
may make
on
the rate
fides, for instance a fax
the
on your company's
letterhead requesting the rate,
on check-in.
Generally, the
you cannot book the hotel of your choice through a
half-price pro-
or a
company
screening
is
credit card or business card
not rigorous.
Preferred Rates If
may have
gram, you and your travel agent often called a preferred rate.
A
preferred rate could be a discount
initiated to attract a certain class
made
activity,
or a discount
of traveler. Most preferred
rates are pro-
available to travel agents to stimulate their
moted through
to search for a lesser discount,
booking
travel industry publications
and so
are often accessible
only through an agent.
We recommend sounding out your travel agent about possible deals. aware that the
rates
shown on
travel agents'
tems are not always the lowest hotels that tions,
fill
computerized reservations
rates obtainable.
Zero
on
a couple of
your needs in terms of location and quality of accommoda-
and then have your
travel agent call for the latest rates
Hotel reps are almost always more responsive to travel
in
Be
sys-
and
travel agents
agents represent a source of additional business. There
specials.
because
are certain
specials that hotel reps will disclose only to travel agents. Travel agents also
come
in
handy when the
hotel
you want
is
supposedly booked.
A
44
Accommodations
PartTwo
personal appeal from your agent to the hotel's director of sales and mar-
keting will get you a
room more than
half of the time.
Half-price Programs
The
larger discounts
on rooms (35
to
60%),
Washington or anywhere
in
through half-price hotel programs, often called
else, are available
travel
Program operators contract with an individual hotel to provide rooms at deep discounts, usually 50% off rack rate, on a "space available" basis. Space available in practice generally means that you can reserve a clubs.
room
80%
at the
discounted rate whenever the hotel expects to be
occupancy.
A
little
at less
than
calendar sleuthing to help you avoid city-wide
conventions and special events will increase your chances of choosing a
when the discounts are available. Most half-price programs charge an annual membership fee or directory subscription charge of $25 to $125. Once enrolled, you are mailed a
time
membership card and
a directory listing participating hotels.
the directory, you will notice immediately that there are
and exceptions. Some
tions
or times of year. Others the
week or
may
offer a
require
much
Programs
More
you
may
only offer the discount on certain days of
to stay a certain
domestic
established operators offer
hotels to choose
from
restric-
hotels, for instance, "black out" certain dates
smaller discount than
specialize in
Examining
many
in the
50%
nights. Still others
off rack rate.
travel, international travel,
or both.
members between 1,000 and 4,000
United
heavy concentration of hotels in
number of
States. All
California and
of the programs have a
and most have
Florida,
very limited selection of participating properties in
New
a
York City or
and regions of the United States vary The programs with the largest selections of Washington
Boston. Offerings in other considerably.
hotels are Encore, Travel
cities
America
at
Half Price (Entertainment Publica-
tions), International Travel Card, and Quest. Each of these programs
between 4 and
50 hotels in the greater
Washington
lists
area.
D.C. Half-price Hotel Progi Encore Entertainment Publications
One problem
(800) 285-5525; www.entertainment.com
Card
(800) 342-0558
Quest
(800)638-9819
International Travel
50%
(800) 638-0930; www.preferredtraveller.com
with half-price programs
discount. Another slippery problem
the discount
is
rack rate that
may deduct
applied.
Some
nobody would
is
that not
is
all
hotels offer a full
the base rate against
hotels figure the discount
ever have to pay.
which
on an exaggerated
A few participating hotels
the discount from a supposed "superior" or "upgraded"
room
Getting a rate,
even though the room you get
tion.
Though hard
to pin
is
Good Deal on a Roonn
the hotel's standard
45
accommoda-
down, the majority of participating properties
&
Travel Index (a quaron the pubHshed rate in the Hotel work used by travel agents) and work within the spirit of their agreement with the program operator. As a rule, if you travel several times a year, your room rate savings will easily compensate you for pro-
base discounts terly reference
gram membership fees. A noteworthy addendum: Deeply discounted rooms through programs
means
are not
that
commissionable to
you must ordinarily make your own inquiry
tions. If you travel frequently,
your
travel agents. In practical
travel agent,
however, and run a
lot
calls
half-price
terms this
and
reserva-
of business through
he or she will probably do your legwork, lack of com-
mission notwithstanding. Hotel Discounters
Accommodations Express Capitol Reservations
Hotel Discounts
Hotels.com
Quikbook Washington, D.C. Accommodations
(800) 444-7666 (800) 847-4832; www.hotelsdc.com
(800) 715-7666; www.hoteldiscounts.com
(800) 964-6835;
www. hotels.com
(800) 789-9887; www.quikbook.com (800) 503-3338
Wholesalers, Consolidators, and Reservation Services directory,
you can
take advantage of the services of a wholesaler or consolidator.
Whole-
If you
do not want
to join a
program or buy a discount
and consolidators buy rooms, or options on rooms (room blocks), from hotels at a low, negotiated rate. They then resell the rooms at a
salers
through
profit
Most
travel agents
and tour packagers, or
rooms
to participating hotels, but they are disinclined to
wholesaler's or consolidator's relationship with
volume.
rooms
If
any hotel
is
they return rooms unsold, the hotel might not
available to
them
consolidators often offer
50%
directly to the public.
wholesalers and consolidators have a provision for returning unsold
do
The
so.
predicated
make
as
the next time around. Thus, wholesalers
rooms
at
bargain
rates, at
anywhere from
on
many 1
and 5 to
off rack, occasionally sacrificing their profit margin in the process,
to avoid returning the
rooms
to the hotel unsold.
When wholesalers and consolidators deal directly with the public, they frequently represent themselves as "reservation services." When you call, you can ask
for a rate
quote for a particular hotel,
their best available deal in the area
maximum amount you will find
are willing to pay, say so.
something that
will
work
or, alternatively,
where you prefer
ask for
to stay. If there
Chances
are,
is
a
the service
for you, even if they have to shave a
46
Accommodations
PartTwo
dollar or
two ofF
your room
Other times you
tion.
own
their
profit.
Sometimes you
will
have to pay for
when you make your reservausual time, when you check out.
with a credit card,
in advance,
pay
will
at the
Bed-and-Breakfasts (Bi&Bs)
B&Bs
on personal
offer a lodging alternative based
ity that
transcend the
sterile,
they can be quirky. Most, but not
ever,
Some
service
and
B&Bs
all,
are
rooms come with
Not
private baths
may have
all
how-
open year-round.
accept only cash or personal checks, while others take
credit cards.
hospital-
predictable product of chain hotels;
all
major
Some rooms with or vice versa. Some allow
private baths.
a tub but not a shower,
children but not pets; others, pets but not children.
Many B&Bs
provide
only the most basic breakfast, while some provide a sumptuous morning feast. Still
others offer three meals a day.
accessible,
but
it
Because staying are
at a
B&B
recommended, though
come
Most B&Bs
are not wheelchair
never hurts to ask. is
like visiting
B&Bs
someone's home, reservations
with more than ten rooms usually wel-
To help you sort out your B&B options, we recommend Updated regularly, these books describe B&Bs in
walk-ins.
the following guides.
more
detail
than
is
possible in the Unofficial Guide.
and Approved, Bed
Inspected, Rated,
& Breakfasts and Country Inns, by
Beth Burgreen Stuhlman, published by the American Bed Association. Covers the entire United States. Visit
Bed
& Breakfasts— Country Inns and The
Historic Inns,
Breakfast
Official
Guide
to
American
by Deborah Sakach, published by American Historic Inns,
Covers the entire United
Inc.
&
www.abba.com.
Recommended Country
States.
To
phone (949) 499-8070. and Chesapeake Region, by
order,
Inns, Mid-Atlantic
Suzi Forbes Chase, published by the Globe Pequot Press. Covers Virginia,
West
Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia.
To
order,
For Washington area
B&B
reservations,
www.bedandbreakfastdc.com, or tions Ltd. at (202)
New
Jersey,
call
check the
Bed and
Web
Breakfast
Do
answer
is
and
rates
site
located at
Accommoda-
to
Washington.
some direction. Check out the loca-
no, be prepared to give your travel agent
not accept any recommendations
tion
York, and
328-3510.
HelpingYour Travel Agent Help You When you call your travel agent, ask if he or she has been If the
New
phone (800) 243-0495.
at face value.
of any suggested hotel and make certain that the hotel
is
suited to your itinerary.
Because some
may
try to plug
travel agents are unfamiliar
you
with Washington, your agent
into a tour operators or wholesaler's preset package.
.
Getting a This essentially allows the gle
phone
call
this scenario
and
that
is
ness with only
still
travel
collect
agent to
most agents
set
10%
an 8 to
trip
with a
sin-
commission. The problem with
90%
will place
of their Washington busi-
and not much choice
Travel agents will often use wholesalers airlines, like
tions.
up your whole
47
one or two wholesalers or tour operators. In other words,
the line of least resistance for them,
with
Good Deal on a Room
Deltas
Dream
who
it's
for you.
run packages in conjunction
Vacations or Americans Fly-Away Vaca-
Because of the wholesalers exclusive relationship with the
carrier,
these trips are very easy for travel agents to book. However, they will prob-
ably be
more expensive than
who works
To help your 1
by a high-volume wholesaler
a package offered
with a number of airlines in a primarily Washington market. travel
agent get you the best possible deal, do the following:
Determine where you want
to stay in
Washington and,
if possible,
choose a specific hotel. This can be accomplished by reviewing the hotel information provided in this guide
and by writing or
calling
hotels that interest you. 2.
Check out the hotel deals and package vacations advertised in the Sunday travel section of the Washington Post. Often you will be able to find deals that beat the socks off anything offered ia your local paper. See if
you can find
include a hotel you 3.
specials that
fit
your plans and
like.
Call the hotels, wholesalers, or tour operators
whose ads you have
collected. Ask any questions you have concerning their packages,
but do not book your 4.
Tell
your
travel agent
trip
benchmark
against
directly.
about the deals you find and ask
can get you something a
with them
better.
which
The
to
if
he or she
deals in the paper will serve as
compare
alternatives
proposed by
your travel agent. 5.
Choose from among the options that you and your travel agent uncover. No matter which option you elect, have your travel agent
book it
it.
will
and
Even
if you
go with one of the packages in the newspaper,
probably be commissionable
will provide the agent
your behalf Also,
You Make Your
Own
As you poke around trying should know.
First,
always
chain's national toll-free
(at
no additional
return
on
as a travel professional,
able to verily the quality
If
some
and
cost to you)
the time invested
on
your agent should be
integrity of the deal.
Reservation
to find a call
good
deal, there are several things
you
the specific hotel as opposed to the hotel
number. Quite often, the
reservationists at the
48
PartTwo
Accommodations number
national toll-free specials before
you
bargain. If
want
to extend
are
unaware of local
you inquire about corporate are
buying a
hotel's
before you check
How to
Do
Always ask about
not be reluctant to
weekend package,
and
for example,
your stay into the following week, you can often obtain
Do
corporate rate for the extra days.
least the
specials.
rates.
in,
preferably
at
your bargaining, however,
when you make your
reservations.
Evaluate a Travel Package
Hundreds of Washington package vacations are offered to the public each year. Packages should be a win-win proposition for both the buyer and the seller.
The buyer
make only one phone
has to
ing, meals, tours, attraction admissions, seller,
processing,
bulk on contract large
and even golf and
and
The
tennis.
also
buy
airfares in
broker playing the commodities market. Buying a
number of airfares
significant savings
one
addition to streamlining
billing. In
and administration, some packagers like a
just
rental car, lodg-
with the buyer only once, eliminating the need
likewise, has to deal
for separate sales, confirmations, sales,
and deal with
call
up the whole vacation: transportation,
salesperson to set
advance allows the packager to buy them
in
from posted
fares.
The same
hotel rooms. Because selling vacation packages
practice
is
an
is
at a
also applied to
efiPicient
way of doing
business,
and because the packager can often buy individual package com-
ponents
(airfare,
lodging, etc.) in bulk at discount, savings in operating
expenses realized by the
seller are
sometimes passed on to the buyer. In
addition to being convenient, such packages can be exceptional values. In
any event, that
is
the
way
it is
supposed to work.
All too often, in practice, the seller cashes in
none on
to the buyer. In
some
extras that cost the packager next to
sky-high.
As you may
on discounts and passes up with
instances, packages are loaded
nothing but
inflate the retail price
expect, the savings to be passed along to customers
evaporate.
When considering a package, sure to use. for
Whether you
them. Second,
few phone individual
calls
if
and
cost
the package price
is
deal. If the costs are
is
all
choose one that includes features you are the features or not, you will certainly pay
of greater concern than convenience, make a
what the package would
see
components
use
(airfare, rental car,
less
than the a
la carte cost,
about the same, the package
you booked its on your own. If
cost if
lodging, etc.)
the package is
is
a
good
probably worth buy-
ing just for the convenience. If
your package includes a choice of rental car or "airport transfers"
(transportation to visiting
and from the
Washington
During the weekend,
you
for the it is
don't visit the dreaded
airport), take the transfers unless
weekend and
relatively easy to get
"monument
you
are
don't plan to visit the Mall.
alley."
around by car
as
During the week,
long as
forget
it;
Tips for Business Travelers
a car if
is
definitely not the
way
do take the
to go. If you
car,
49
be sure to ask
the package includes free parking at your hotel.
Tips for Business Travelers The primary considerations imity to the zone(s)
site
for business travelers are affbrdability
and prox-
or area where you will transact your business. Identify the
where your business
will take
you on the maps on pages 8-9, and
then use the Accommodations Chart on pages 68-82 to cross-reference the
Once you have developed
hotels located in that area.
hotels that are conveniently located,
fit
a short
your budget, and
of accommodations you require, you (or your
list
of possible
offer the standard
travel agent)
can make use of
the cost-saving suggestions discussed earlier to obtain the lowest
rate.
Lodging Convenient to Washington Convention Center If
you
meeting or trade show
are attending a
at
Washington Convention
downtown Washington, where at within walking distance. From most down-
Center, look for convenient lodging in least a
town
half-dozen hotels are
hotels,
Washington Convention Center
cab or shuttle ride away. Parking it is
expensive and not
is
that convenient.
all
is
a five- to eight-minute
available at the convention center, but
We recommend that you leave
at home and use shuttles and cabs. The Washington Convention Center is about
your car
a two-and-a-half-
Metro stations. Mount Vernon Square/Convention Center, and Metro Station. The walk passes through a section of town that is safe during daylight hours. Commuting to Washington Convention Center from the suburbs or block
walk
from
nearest
the
the airports during rush hour
you want need
a
a
room
one of the
is
something to be avoided
room downtown, book at the last
early
—very
early. If you
if possible. If
screw up and
minute, try a wholesaler or reservation service, or
strategies listed below.
Convention Rates: How They Work and If you are attending a
How to Do
Better
major convention or trade show,
it is
probable that
the meeting's sponsoring organization has negotiated "convention rates"
with a number of hotels. Under a certain
number of rooms
Sometimes,
as in the case
In the event of
a large,
room
block.
arrangement, hotels agree to "block"
of a small meeting, only one hotel
is
involved.
citywide convention at Washington Convention
Center, however, almost in the
at
this
an agreed-upon price for convention-goers.
all
downtown and
airport hotels will participate
50
Accommodations
PartTwo
Because the convention sponsor brings a
of business to the
lot
city
and
number of rooms, it usually can negotiate a volume discount on the room rates, a rate that should be substantially below rack rate. The bottom line, however, is that some conventions and trade shows reserves a large
have more clout and negotiating tion sponsor
Once
may or may
a convention or trade
with participating hotels, includes
all
skill
than others. Hence, your conven-
not be able to obtain the lowest possible
it
show sponsor has completed
will
send
attendees a housing
its
rate.
negotiations list
that
the hotels serving the convention, along with the special con-
When
vention rate for each.
you
receive the housing
list,
you can com-
pare the convention rates with the rates obtainable using the strategies
covered in the previous section. If the negotiated convention rate doesn't
sound
like a
good
you can
deal,
try to reserve a
room
using a half-price
club, a consolidator, or a tour operator.
Remember, however,
of the deep discounts are available only
when
less
than
vention
Here 1.
80% occupancy,
is
are
some
tips for
Reserve
early.
meeting
sites
book
a condition that rarely prevails
beating convention
Most one
as far in
big conventions
advance
much
list
Use
if,
for
your convention's housing
on the convention
some
reason,
this guide. list
you need
some rooms, even
on page
hotel
list,
list,
compare
You might be
it
able to
that better suits your needs.
to
make
is
use-
reservations at the
in the
Book
midst of a huge conven-
on wholesalers and consolida-
45.)
a hotel
somewhat
distant
situated close to the Metro.
from the convention center but
You may
save
money on your room
and your commuting time underground
center will often be shorter than
downtown 5.
its
better that the hotel will have space available.
tion or trade show. (See our section
rate,
Get your reservation
using a half-price club. If you
minute. Local reservation agencies and consolidators almost
always control
tors
and trade shows announce
a local reservation agency or consolidator. This strategy
even
last
as possible
of hotels presented in
find a hotel not
4.
a big con-
rates:
to three years in advance.
If you've already got
with the
ful
when
well before the convention sponsor sends out
chances are
3.
many
in town.
booked
2.
that
the hotel expects to be at
if
you take
to the
convention
a cab or drive
from a
hotel.
downtown or near a Metro line. Bed and Breakfast Accommodations Ltd., at (202) 328-3510, or www.bedandbreakfastdc.com, can help you locate one. Stay in a bed and breakfast, either
1
Accommodations: Rated and Ranked
Hotel and Motel Toll-free For your convenience, we've
numbers, including for
many
TDDs
and motel
hotel
5
Numbers
listed
on the next page the
toll-free
phone
for the
Deaf)
(Telecommunication Device
chains.
Accommodations: Rated and Ranked What's Except
much
a
in
Room? of repair, and decor, most travelers do not pay
for cleanliness, state
attention to hotel rooms. There
of quality
and luxury
of course, a discernable standard
is,
that differentiates
Motel 6 from Holiday Inn, Holi-
day Inn from Marriott, and so on. In general, however, hotel guests
fail
to
some rooms are better engineered than others. Contrary to what you might suppose, designing a hotel room is (or should be) a lot more complex than picking a bedspread to match the carpet and drapes. Making the room usable to its occupants is an art, a planning discipline that combines both form and function. appreciate that
Decor and eral
room where
beyond the decor, is.
the decor
we have
seen
that are simply not well designed for stay in a hotel,
pay attention
one wants
to
spend
some
how
"livable" a hotel
human
habitation.
to the details
The
feel
comfortable and
takes the Unofficial
It
hotel room.
Here
are a
paying attention
start
Room large
Size
at
own
make
Guide researchers about 40 minutes to inspect a
may want
to
to:
While some smaller rooms is
are cozy
and well designed, a
generally preferable, especially for a stay of
three days.
to control the is
will
home.
Temperature Control, Ventilation, and Odor quiet,
next time
and design elements of
few of the things we check that you
and uncluttered room
more than
room
rooms
beautifully appointed
your room. Even more than decor, these are the things that
you
sev-
dated, garish, or even ugly. But
is
certain variables determine
In Washington, D.C.,
you
No
important, certainly.
taste are
days in a
temperature of the room.
central heating
thermostat.
The
and
air
The
The
guest should be able
best system, because
it's
so
conditioning, controlled by the room's
next best system
is
a
room module
heater
and
air
conditioner, preferably controlled by an automatic thermostat, but usually
by manually operated button
controls.
The worst system
is
central
heat and air without any sort of room thermostat or guest control.
The
vast majority of hotel
rooms have windows or balcony doors that Though there are some legitimate
have been permanently secured shut. safety
and
liability issues involved,
we
prefer
windows and balcony doors
52
PartTwo
Accommodations
Accommodations: Rated and Ranked that can be
opened
admit
to
fresh
and smoke-free, and should not
Room
Security
air.
Hotel rooms should be odor-free
feel stuffy
rooms have
Better
and
instead of the traditional lock
or damp.
locks that require a plastic card
key. Card-and-slot systems allow the
hotel to change the combination or entry code of the lock with each
guest who
room.
uses the
53
new
A burglar who has somehow acquired a room key
to a conventional lock can afford to wait until the situation
using the key to gain access.
Not
is
right before
Though
so with a card-and-slot system.
the largest hotels and hotel chains with lock and key systems usually rotate their locks
once each
year,
Many smaller
the time.
they remain vulnerable to hotel thieves
much
of
or independent properties rarely rotate their locks.
In addition to an entry lock system, the door should have a deadbolt a chain that can be locked
and preferably itself is
not
Doors should
sufficient.
also
from the
inside.
have a peephole.
A
chain by
Windows and
balcony doors should have secure locks.
Every room should have a
Safety tions,
and preferably
surface,
and shower
slide side-to-side.
and not too Noise or
stalls
clear fire instruc-
should have doors that either open outward or
Bathroom
electrical outlets
travelers
activities
should be high on the wall rails.
have been kept awake by the television, partying,
of people in the next room, or by
street outside. Better hotels are
and
smoke alarm,
close to the sink. Balconies should have sturdy, high
Most
amorous
or
fire
a sprinkler system. Bathtubs should have a nonskid
traffic
on the
designed with noise control in mind. Wall
ceiling construction are substantial, effectively screening out routine
noise. Carpets
and drapes,
in addition to being decorative, also absorb
and muffle sounds. Mattresses mounted on
stable platforms or sturdy
bed frames do not squeak even when challenged by the most passionate lovers. Televisions
enclosed in cabinets, and with volume governors,
rarely disturb guests in adjacent
rooms.
In better hotels, the air conditioning and heating system
is
well main-
tained and operates without noise or vibration. Likewise, plumbing quiet and positioned
away from the sleeping and well
to adjoining rooms, are thick
Darkness Control not quite
up way
come
Ever been in a hotel
wee hours,
sleep late
it's
Doors
fitted to better
room where
together in the middle? In
into the
where you can
area.
cities
to the hall,
is
and
keep out noise. the curtains
where many
would
visitors stay
important to have a dark, quiet room
without the morning sun blasting you out of
bed. Thick, lined curtains that close completely in the center and extend
beyond the dimensions of the window or door frame
are required. In a
well-planned room, the curtains, shades, or blinds should almost totally
block light at any time of day.
54
Accommodations
PartTwo
Poor lighting
Lighting
The
hotel rooms.
watching
is
lighting
television,
common problem
an extremely
in
American
usually adequate for dressing, relaxing, or
is
but not for reading or working. Lighting needs to be
bright over tables and desks and alongside couches or easy chairs. Since
many people read in bed, there should be a separate light for each person. A room with two queen beds should have an individual light for so
four people. Better bedside reading lights illuminate a small area, so
you want
to sleep
and someone
not be bothered by the
on
will
The worst
situation
is
a single
if
will
lamp
In addition, closet areas should be well
seen but desirable feature
is
or most lights in the
lit,
made with
often
and there should be
room when you
com-
enter.
a switch
A seldom
a bedside console that allows a guest to con-
room from
the bed.
At bare minimum, the bed(s) must be
Furnishings
is
of insufficient wattage.
light bulbs
near the door that turns on lights in the
be
far
have sufficient light to read. This deficiency
pounded by
trol all
by
you
read,
between the beds. In each bed, only the person next to the
a table
lamp
light.
up and
else prefers to stay
nonallergenic
firm. Pillows should
and, in addition to the sheets and
fillers
spread, a blanket should be provided. Bedclothes should be laundered
with a fabric
sofiiener
extra blankets
and changed
and pillows
daily. Better hotels usually
room
in the
or
a second top sheet between the blanket
There should be a dresser during a five-day chair,
stay.
A
should be provided.
large
provide
on request and sometimes use
and the spread.
enough
to
hold clothes for two people
small table with two chairs, or a desk with a
The room should be equipped with
a luggage
rack and a three-quarter- to full-length mirror.
The
television should be color, be cable-connected,
volume governor and remote
control.
It
and
ideally have a
should be mounted on a swivel
base and preferably enclosed in a cabinet. Local channels should be
posted on the
set,
and a
local
TV program guide should be supplied.
The telephone should be touchtone, conveniently situated use,
and should have, on or near
and
a rate card. Local white
hotels have
it,
easily
for bedside
understood dialing instructions
and yellow pages should be provided. Better
phones in the bath and equip room phones with long cords.
Well-designed hotel rooms usually have a plush armchair or a sleeper sofa for lounging
and reading. Better headboards
are
padded
for
com-
fortable reading in bed, and there should be a nightstand or table on each side of the bed(s). ator, a digital
Bathroom son dresses
as
refriger-
alarm clock, and a coffeemaker.
Two
counter space.
Nice extras in any hotel room include a small
sinks are better than one,
A sink outside the bath
is
and you cannot have too much
a great convenience
when one per-
another bathes. Sinks should have drains with stoppers.
Accommodations: Rated and Ranked Better bathrooms have both a tub
Tub and shower
and
a
shower with
a
55
nonsHp bottom.
controls should be easy to operate. Adjustable shower
heads are preferred.
The bath needs
to be well
lit
and should have an
exhaust fan and a guest-controlled bathroom heater. Towels should be
and fluffy, and provided in generous quantities, as should hand towels and washcloths. There should be an electrical outlet for each sink, conveniently and safely placed. Complimentary shampoo, conditioner, and lotion are a plus, as are large, soft,
robes and bathmats. Better hotels supply their bathrooms with tissues
and extra
toilet paper.
Luxurious baths feature a phone, a hair dryer,
sometimes
a small television, or even a Jacuzzi.
Vending
There should be complimentary
each
Welcome
floor.
(combs, toothpaste) machine. that have
Room To
ice
and
a drink
machine on
additions include a snack machine and a sundries
The
latter are
seldom found
in large hotels
24-hour restaurants and shops.
Ratings
separate properties according to the relative quality, tasteftilness, state
of repair, cleanliness, and
size
of their standard rooms, we have grouped
the hotels and motels into classifications denoted by
•••••
stars:
56
Accommodations
PartTwo
In addition to stars (which delineate broad categories), a numerical rating system.
and
possible rating
the difference
may
be in the same
Embassy
rated as
87 and 86,
means
83. This
The
at the
Suites
employ
and another
Marriott Tysons
the
that
Morrison House, the Corner,
for
(four stars). In the supplemental numeri-
Downtown
while the Marriott Tysons Corner
that within the four-star category, the
Downtown
are comparable,
are
rated
is
Morrison House
and that both have
rooms than the Marriott Tysons Corner.
nicer
location
where you
****
respectively,
and the Embassy
somewhat
Rooms
category
also
Numerical ratings are presented to
Morrison House and the Embassy Suites
cal ratings, the
rated
star
we
0-100, with 100 the best
is
perceive between one property
Downtown, and
Suites all
rating scale
(zero) the worst.
we
show
instance, are
Our
column
identifies the greater
Washington
area (by zone)
will find a particular property.
How the Accommodations Compare Cost estimates are based on the
hotel's published rack rates for standard rooms. Each "$" represents $50. Thus, a cost symbol of "$$$" means a
room
(or suite) at that hotel will cost
Below strictly
is
on room
ices, recreation,
about $150 a night.
parade of the nicest rooms in town. We've focused
a hit
quality
and excluded any consideration of location,
or amenities. In
can be had for the same
some
instances, a one- or
two-room
you used previous editions of this guide, you may notice of the ratings and rankings have changed. These changes
new
properties,
well as guest
as
improved maintenance and housekeeping
A
failure to properly
suite
price or less than that of a hotel room.
If
inclusion of
serv-
room
that
many
reflect the
renovations or
in previously listed properties.
maintain guest rooms or a lapse in housekeeping
standards can negatively affect the ratings. Finally, before letter
We
we
you begin
to
shop for a
received from a couple in
cancelled our
room
Hot
hotel, take a
hard look
at this
Springs, Arkansas:
reservations to follow the advice in your book [and
reserved a hotel room highly ranked by the Unofficial Guide]. We wanted inexpensive, but clean grim, It
and
depressing.
I
and cheerful.We got inexpensive, but disappointed
really felt
was the pits.That was the one
real piece
your book! The room spoiled the holiday for
Needless to to
our reader.
say, this letter
Our
intentions and the
room
of information
me
we
I
provide our readers.
in every hotel.
needed from
aside from our touring.
as unsettling to us as the
most conscientious
[also] dirty,
your advice and the room.
integrity as travel journalists, after
quality of the information
inspect every
was
in
bad room was
all, is
based on the
Even with the best of
research, however,
What we do,
we cannot
in statistical terms,
is
take
Accommodations: Rated and Ranked a sample:
We
check out several rooms selected
and base our
ratings
at
random
in
57
each hotel
and rankings on those rooms. The inspections
are
conducted anonymously and without the knowledge of the management. Although
it is
randomly inspect ticular hotel.
unusual,
it is
Another
possibility
hotel are representative but that that
is
inferior.
certainly possible that the
rooms we
are not representative of the majority of rooms at a par-
When we
is
that the
rooms we inspect
by bad luck a reader
is
in a given
room we dis-
assigned a
rechecked the hotel our reader disliked,
covered that our rating was correctly representative but that he and his wife had unfortunately been assigned to one of a small
number of thread-
bare rooms scheduled for renovation.
The key to avoiding disappointment is to snoop around in advance. We recommend that you ask for a photo of a hotel's standard guest room before
you book, or
at least get a
Be forewarned, however, photo in
their
that
promotional
room may not resemble
travel
agent
was
up
last
ask
how
hotel's
promotional brochure.
hotel chains use the
literature for
guest
call,
copy of the
some
the brochure photo.
old the property
same guest room
hotels in the chain; a specific
all
is
When
room that does not moved to another room.
renovated. If you arrive and are assigned a
to the brochure's promises,
demand
to be
you or your
and when your guest room
HOW THE ACCOMMODATIONS COMPARE
live
58
PartTwo
Accommodations
HOW THE ACCOMMODATIONS COMPARE (continued) Star
Accommodations Sofitel Lafayette
Zone
Rating
Quality
Rating
Cost $=$50
Accommodations: Rated and Ranked
HOW THE ACCOMMODATIONS COMPARE (continued)
59
60
PartTwo
Accommodations
HOW THE ACCOMMODATIONS COMPARE (continued)
Accommodations: Rated and Ranked
HOW THE ACCOMMODATIONS COMPARE (continued)
61
62
PartTwo
Accommodations
ACCOMMODATIONS
LISTED BY Star
Accommodations
Zone
3;
Rating
Downtown
Best Western Capitol
Hill
Capitol Hilton
Connfort Inn
Downtown
Four Points Sheraton
Downtown
Grand Hyatt Washington Hamilton
Crowne
Plaza
Hay-Adams Hotel Hilton Garden Inn
Holiday Inn Capitol
Holiday inn
Downtown
Holiday Inn on the
Hotel Monaco Hotel Washington
Hill
ZONE
(continued)
Quality
Rating
Cost $=$S0
Accommodations: Rated and Ranked
ACCOMMODATIONS
LISTED BY
ZONE
(continued)
63
64
PartTwo
Accommodations
ACCOMMODATIONS
LISTED BY
ZONE (continued)
Accommodations: Rated and Ranked
ACCOMMODATIONS
LISTED BY
ZONE
Quality
Zone
Accommodations Zone
/
/:
Comfort
Virginia
Inn
Suburbs
(continued)
Washington Gateway
Rating
(continued)
Star
Rating
Cost $=$50
65
66
PartTwo
Accommodations
ACCOMMODATIONS LISTED BY ZONE (continued) Quality
Zone
Accommodations
Zone
1
1:
Virginia
Suburbs
(continued)
Sheraton National Sheraton Pentagon South
Sheraton Premiere Tysons Corner Sheraton Suites Alexandria
Washington National Airport Hilton
Washington Suites Alexandria
Rating
• •*l/2
Star Rating
Cost $=$50
Accommodations: Rated and Ranked
TOP
30
BEST DEALS IN WASHINGTON, D.C.
67
68
PartTwo
Accommodations Information Chart
Accommodations American
Inn of
Bethesda
Star Rating
Quality Rating
Street
Zone Address
American
Phone
Fax
Reservations
Rack Rate
(301)
(301)
(800)
$$$+
656-9300
656-2907
323-7081
Toll-free
Local
(202)
745-3600
New
Carrollton
No. of
On-site Dining
Inn of Bethesda-Courtyard
Rooms 76
•
69
Pool
70
PartTwo
Accommodations Information Chart
Accommodations
Courtyard Rosslyn-Georgetown Inn Toll-free
Rack
No. of
Phone
Fax
Reservations
Rate
Rooms
(703)
(703)
(800)
$$$$-
62
528-2222
528-1027
321-2211
Local
(202)
332-9300
On-site Dining
71
Pool
72
PartTwo
Accommodations Information Chart
Accommodations
Governor's House-Holiday Inn Rosslyn
Local
Phone
73
74
PartTwo
Accommodations Information Chart
Accommodations Holiday Inn Select
Bethesda
Star Rating
Quality Rating
Street
Zone Address
Holiday Inn Select Bethesda-Llncoln Suites
Local
Phone (301)
652-2000
Fax
Toll-free
Rack
No. of
Reservations
Rate
Rooms
On-site Dining
75
Pool
76
PartTwo
Accommodations Information Chart
Accommodations -Loews
L'Enfant Plaza
Star Rating
Quality Rating
Street
Zone Address
Loews L'Enfant Plaza-Red Roof Local
Phone
Inn
Downtown
77
78
PartTwo
Accommodations Information Chart
Accommodations Renaissance
Mayflower Hotel
Star Rating
Quality Rating
Street
Zone Address
Renaissance Mayflower Hotel-Washington Marriott Hotel
Local
Phone
79
80
PartTwo
Accommodations Information Chart
Accommodations
3
Washington National Airport Hilton-Wyndham Washington Toll-free
Local
Phone
Fax
Reservations
(703)
(703)
(800)
418-6800
418-3763
HILTONS
(202)
(202)
(800)
842- 300
371-9602
424-1140
1
(800)
(202)
(202)
898-9000
789-42
(703)
(703)
(877)
370-9600
370-0467
736-2500
(202)
(202)
(877)
333-8060
955-5765
736-2500
(202)
(202)
(800)
232-7000
332-8436
222-TREE
(202)
(202)
(800)
965-2300
337-7915
424-2736
(202)
(202)
(800)
293-2100
293-0641
325-3535
1
Rack Rate
No. of
$$$-
386
$$$$-
339
$$$-
800
$$$+
225
$$$$$$-
239
$$$$$-
219
$$$$-
235"
$$$$$$H
206
$$$$$$
263
$$$$$$$$-
340
Rooms
228-9898
(202)
(202)
(888)
429-0100
429-9759
625-5144
(202)
(202)
(800)
628-9100
637-7326
327-0200
(202)
(202)
(800)
483-7700
332-4547
247-3064
(202)
(202)
(800)
775-0800
331-9491
WYNDHAM
(202)
(202)
(800)
429-1700
785-0786
WYNDHAM
$$$-
43
$$$-
353
$$$$
400
On-site Dining
81
Pool
Part Three
Visiting
Washington
on Business
Not All Visitors Are Headed
for the
While most of the more than 21 million people
each year are tourists, not everyone visiting the city has tered
around the National Mall. In
fact,
Mall
who come
to
Washington
an itinerary cen-
almost 1.5 million
visitors are
convention-goers attending shows at the Washington Convention Center, located in
downtown Washington.
States government, the
around the world
who
city
In addition, as the seat of the United
draws another 4.5 million
fly in to
visitors
from
conduct business with both federal
agencies and a wide array of private organizations headquartered here.
The
city
is
also a center of higher education.
The
District
is
home
to
George Washington University, Georgetown University, American University, Howard University, and the Catholic Universit)^ of America,
among others. As
a result,
college administrators,
In to
many on
attracts a lot
of visiting academics,
their families.
ways, the problems facing business visitors on their
Washington don't
intent
Washington
and students and
differ
much from
first trip
the problems of folks in
hitting the major tourist attractions. People visiting
town
on business
that's convenient, want to avoid the worst of the same problems getting around an unfamiliar city, must figure out how to buy a Metro ticket, and want to know the locations of the best restaurants. This book can help.
need to locate a hotel city's traffic,
face the
For the most part, though, business visitors aren't nearly
about the timing of their destination.
spring and
visit as folks
While we advise fall,
who
that the best times for
the necessities of business
—
as flexible
pick Washington as a vacation
may
coming
to
D.C.
are
dictate that January
when you pull into town or, even worse, early April, when mobbed for the Japanese cherry blossom festivities.
the city
is is
83
84
s
g
88
PartThree
Visiting Washington
on Business
A CONVENTION CENTER CALENDAR The
city's
considerable convention business (1.5 million delegates in
hard to get a hotel room in and around the
2004) can make
it
the following
of major 2005 and 2006 convention dates to plan your
trip to
list
Washington.
2005
Dates
city.
Use
A Convention
1
-24
Congressional Black Caucus
5,000
SepL 26-28
American College of Emergency Physicians
Oct. 3-5
Association of the U.S. Army
Oct. 8-
1
American Academy of
I
89
Attendees
Convention/Event
Dates Sept. 2
Center Calendar
5.000
20,000
Pediatrics
Convention
10.000
Oct. 17-20
Transcatheter Cardiovascular Therapeutics
Oct. 30-Nov. 2
Water Environment Federation
18.000
Nov. 13-16
Society for Neuroscience
26.000
Dec. 4-^
American Epilepsy Society Annual Meeting
3.000
Dec. 7- 10
National Association for the Education of
12,000
Dec. 23-26
Parkinsons Disease Foundation
12,000
Young Children
World
5.000
Conference
2006
Attendees
Convention/Event
Dates
Mar 7-9
FOSE
60,000
Mar 8-23
Association of Peri Operative Registered
14,000
1
Nurses
Apr 2-5
American Association of Cancer Research
May 8-
American College of
1
OB-GYNS
10.000 14.000
May 12-14
American Red Cross
5.000
June 10-12
American Diabetes Association
8.000
June 25-28
Society for
Human Resource Management
15.000
July
2-6
Youth for Christ
20.000
July
9-15
American Cancer Society
25.000
July
25-28
MassMutual Leaders Conference 2006
3.000
Aug. 14-18
Gospel Music Workshop of America
6,000
Sept. 6-7
Affordable Meetings Exhibition
3,000
Sept.
6-9
Congressional Black Caucus Foundation
5,000
20.000
Sept. 15-17
Natural Products Expo East
SepL 28-30
American Academy of Family Physicians
17,000
Oct. 8-1
Association of the U.S. Army
20.000
Nov.
1
I
9-2
Dec. 1-2
1
American Academy of Religion
9.500
National Council for the Social Studies
4.500
90
Visiting Washington
PartThree
much
Yet
Guide
is
on Business
of the advice and information presented in the Unofficial
as valuable to business visitors as
it is
to tourists.
As
our
for
rec-
who knows? Perhaps ommendations on seeing the city's many sights you'll be able to squeeze a morning or an afternoon out of your busy .
schedule, grab this book, attractions that
each
and spend
draw the other
.
few hours exploring some of the
a
7 million people
1
.
who
visit
Washington
year.
The Washington Convention Center In the
fall
of 1998, ground was broken for a
new $800
million Washing-
ton Convention Center, located two blocks from the existing center at
Mount Vernon
Square.
The
which opened
building,
in
2003, has more
than 2 million square feet of space, including 725,000 square feet of exhibit space, 500,000 square feet of contiguous space,
rooms
totaling
150,000 square
feet. It's
and 70 meeting
the largest building in
D.C.
The Washington Convention Center is a four-level structure located seven blocks from the White House on a 17-acre site bounded by Mount The center contains Vernon Place, Ninth, N, and Seventh Streets,
NW
56 meeting rooms (some 151,000 square square
feet,
provides
all
feet,
divisible),
3 ballrooms, and 5 exhibit halls with
194,000 square
and 119,000 square
feet
feet,
128,000 square
of space,
feet,
respectively.
111,000
The Center
food and beverage services on the premises, including catered
meals and brand restaurants
like
Wolfgang Puck's and Starbucks.
For both exhibitors and attendees, the Washington Convention Center 1
is
an excellent
site for a
million visitors in
up
their exhibits
its first
with a
meeting or trade show, and attracted nearly year.
Large and small exhibitors alike can set
minimum
of effort. Forty- two loading docks and
huge bay doors make unloading and loading quick and simple displays arriving are
unloaded in the same
carried or
area, entering
from
wheeled directly to the exhibit
meeting rooms are well marked and easy to call
for large
by truck. Smaller displays transported in vans and
(202) 789-1600, (800) 368-9000 or
cars
N Street. Equipment can be area.
The
find.
For more information,
visit
exhibit areas
and
www.dcconvention.com.
Lodging within Walking Distance of the Convention Center While
participants in citywide conventions lodge
all
over town, a couple
of hotels are within easy walking distance of the Convention Center: the
Grand Hyatt (phone (202) 582-1234) and the Hamilton Crowne Plaza (phone (202) 682-0111). The Grand Hyatt, directly across the street from the Center, features 900 rooms and 65 suites. The Hamilton
The Washington Convention Center Crowne
Plaza,
two blocks away
at
91
Metro Center, has 318 rooms, each
supplied with a minibar, and 40 suites.
Other hotels within
a
few blocks of the Washington Convention Cen-
ter are:
Hotel Marriott at Metro Center
Rooms
Suites
Distance
92
PartThree
Visiting Washington
on Business
347-4656. For a quiet business lunch, the Old Ebbitt Grill Street, (202)
347-4800, should
fill
the
bill.
For more exotic
at
675 15th
tastes, try
the
Moroccan fare at Marrakesh at 617 New York Avenue, (202) 393-9393, or the Burmese cuisine at Burma, 740 6th Street, (202) 638-1280. For fast food,
Shops
NW,
at
choose from Hardee's, McDonald's, Taco Bell Express, and the National Place, a three-level mall located at
that features a food court.
1
3th and F
Streets,
Part Four
Arriving and Getting Oriented
Coming
into the City
By Car If
you
drive,
you
most
will
on one of
likely arrive
three freeways: Inter-
state 95 from the north, 1-95 from the south, or 1-70 from the northwest.
Washington
Other routes that converge
in
links with 1-81 in Virginias
Shenandoah
are 1-66
Valley),
from the west (which
US
50 (which hooks up
US 301, and Maryland's Eastern Shore), and Parkway, which parallels 1-95 between the Washington Baltimorethe
with Annapolis, Maryland,
two
cities'
beltways.
All these routes have ton's
one
common
link:
They connect with Washing-
Capital Beltway, a ribbon of concrete encircling the
introduction to
how
city.
Now for an
unfriendly D.C. freeways can be to unsuspecting
motorists: Part of the Beltway
is
numbered both
and 1-495. Why?
1-95
Since 1-95 doesn't cut directly through Washington (the
way
Richmond
rerouted along
to the south
and Baltimore
the southern half of the Beltway.
only the
first
Drivers
It's
to the north),
it's
it
does in
quite confusing to visitors, and
coming from
the north
and 1-70 and headed downtown
should take the Beltway to the Baltimore-Washington Parkway and south. Bear right onto straight to
From
Our map
into
it
D.C. near the center of the
destination. If you need to
then.
Both get you
tourist
advice to drivers unfamiliar with Washington
home and
And
make
don't try to fight the
a
exit
goes
either 1-66 or 1-395 (what
crosses inside the Beltway).
before you leave
it
Station.
and west, motorists can take
1-95 becomes after
a
New York Avenue where the Parkway splits;
downtown, near Union
the south
Potomac and
it's
of many Washington driving horrors you'll encounter.
careftilly trace
phone
call
across the
hubbub. is
to
sit
down with
out the route to your
or two for directions, do
weekday rush hour
traffic
it
(6:30-9:30
a.m. and 3-7 p.m.).
93
94
Part Four
Arriving and Getting Oriented
By Plane While Washington
Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport
major
cially has three
domestic
airports, this
is
the
far for
on the Virginia
side of
a few miles south of the city
flyers, just
the Potomac. Don't ask a friend to pick you up: Parking
cramped
facility.
A
offi-
most convenient by
is
terrible at this
courtesy van service can whisk you into town from
the Virginia side of the Potomac.
A
$1 billion, l-miUion-square-foot main terminal that opened in the
summer of 1 997 improved
National's notorious reputation as a cramped,
The
hard-to-get-in-and-out-of airport.
terminal features seamless con-
nection between ground transportation, parking, buses, and D.C.'s subway.
It
also boasts a
food court, 32 elevators, 26 escalators, 12 baggage
carousels, dozens of retail stores,
across the
Potomac
River.
and
a great
view of the nation's capital
Along with 6,500 new parking
new
spaces,
roadways, and expanded curb space and travel lanes (8 lanes for lowerlevel
baggage claims, 5 lanes for upper-level ticket counters),
facility
makes things much
this
newest
easier for travelers.
Nearly 5,000 parking spaces are housed in the parking garage directly across
from the terminal and
moving
are reached via
Metro mezzanines connect D.C.'s subway system pedestrian bridges spanning the airport's roads. tion centers located
Metro,
Cab
taxi service, fares to
on the baggage claim
level
Two
sidewalks.
two
to the terminal via
Two ground
transporta-
provide information on
SuperShuttle vans, and rental
cars.
nearby downtown Washington are reasonable ($9-$ 19).
SuperShuttle shared-service vans leave every destination in the
D.C.
to
5 (or fewer) minutes to
any
range from $18-$22 to any address in
area. Fares
Washington and from $12
1
more than $30
in the Virginia
land suburbs. Three SuperShuttle ticket counters are located
and Mary-
at
National;
look for the "Washington Flyer/SuperShuttle" signs posted throughout the airport. For
more information,
and
exact fares,
reservations for
VAN (258-3826) or go
to
Washington-Dulles International Airport
Foreign
at
Dulles, although AirTran (formerly Valujet)
and Western
return pick-up to National,
(800) BLUE
call
www.supershuttle.com.
increased the airport's domestic traffic
few
years. Reflecting that
nal,
which doubled the
growth
size
is
flights
arrive
Pacific
volume considerably
have
in the last
DuUes's expansion of the main termi-
of the building to
1
.
1
million square
feet.
Yet
Dulles remains the least convenient of the three airports serving Washington. Located in the rolling Virginia countryside
Dulles
is
about a 45-minute drive from downtown
hour. Use the Dulles Access Road,
way and
1-66.
beyond the suburbs,
—
longer during rush
which connects with the Capital
Belt-
95
96
97
@(§)
i
Coming
into the City
99
the gate, go to the lower level and claim your baggage at the bag-
From
gage carousels.
Then proceed out of the
terminal on the ground level to
you can meet someone picking you up or find ground transportation out of the airport. The Washington Flyer shuttle to the West Falls Church Metro station leaves about every 30 minutes weekdays the curb, where
($8 one-way, $14 round-trip) and every 30 minutes on weekends;
22-minute bus will take
trip to the
you anywhere
subway
in the
about a 30-minute wait and
it's
a
station. SuperShuttle shared-ride vans
D.C. metropolitan area; there's usually range from $7 to more than $40 to the
fares
$22 for the first person and $10 for each addimore information, exact fares, and reservations for pickup for your return trip to Dulles, call SuperShuttle at (800) BLUE VAN (258-3826) or go to www.supershuttle.com. Cab fare to downtown
downtown
area (typically
tional person). For
D.C. can run more than $50 one-way. Baltimore- Washington International
of Baltimore's Inner Harbor,
is
BWI,
located 10 miles south
about a 50-minute drive from down-
more time during rush hour. From the which are located next the ground-level doors. If someone is picking you up, they can meet
town Washington; allow
lots
gate area, descend to the luggage pickup belts, to
you outside the baggage claim area at the curb. SuperShuttle offers van service to the Washington Convention Center in downtown Washington. Vans leave on the hour from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily; the fare is $31 per person one-way (children under age 6 ride
free).
Tickets are sold at
on the lower level in Pier C. No reservations are required for service from the airport to downtown D.C; for reservations for the return trip to BWI or for more information, call (800) BLUE VAN (258-3826) or go to www.supershuttle.com. Cab the ground transportation desk
fares to
BWI
downtown D.C.
start at
offers train service to
commuter
trains
around $55 one-way. In addition,
Washington's Union Station via
MARC
on weekdays (cheap) and Amtrak on weekends and
holidays (expensive).
By Train Union Station
Located near Capitol
Amtrak connecting point
in
Hill,
Union
Station
Washington. From here,
is
trains
the central
go out
all
over the country. For most routes you can choose either a speedy Acela Express, Metroliner or a regular train. train station,
not so
fast!
Once
inside the
newly restored
you can jump on the Metro, located on the lower
The
station itself
is full
of delights
—
level.
But
small shops, cafes, and
even a theater complex. To reach cabs, limousines, buses, and open-air tour trolleys, walk through
main entrance.
Union
Station's
magnificent
Main
Hall to the
100
Arriving and Getting Oriented
Part Four
A Geographic Overview of Washington City and Two States Washington, D.C.,
is
a city of
more than 500,000 people
located near
the southern end of the East Coast megalopolis stretching from Boston to Richmond. George Washington chose the city's site, where the Ana-
Potomac, upriver from
costia River flows into the
his
Mount Vernon
plantation. Maryland and Virginia donated wedges of land from both sides
of the Potomac to make the 100-square-mile diamond called the
District of
Columbia. In
1
846, Virginia snatched
the planned city of Washington
the
river's east
sits
lands back; today,
its
on the former Maryland acreage on
bank.
Washington proper
surrounded by bustling, congested suburbs.
is
Across the Potomac, Arlington County, the town of Alexandria, and Fair-
County crowd D.C. from the south and west, while the Maryland Montgomery and Prince George's surround Washington's northwestern and eastern borders. All the suburbs surrounding D.C. are
fax
counties of
experiencing exponential growth. Rockville, for example, a few miles
north of the D.C.
line,
become Maryland's
has
second-largest
city, after
Baltimore.
Washington's most important geographical feature, the Potomac River, is
a natural
impediment
to
few bridges that cross the
both river
tourists
and suburban commuters. The
from Virginia
to
Washington
are rush-
hour bottlenecks. While driving across the border to the Maryland suburbs
is
nominally
government and
easier,
D.C.'s intense traffic and concentration of
tourist sites near the river
make
for a long trek into
Maryland.
D.C/s Street Plan While Washington's reputation deserved
—
Downtown
fairly logical.
streets
as a
tough
at least for first-time visitors streets are
scheme
across the grid diagonally
of Washington
Our advice:
are streets
and meet
the
city's
around layout
streets
named
named
An 1
is
well
actually
going east-west. after states,
The
which cut
in traffic circles that are the nemesis
drivers.
Ignore the state-named streets on your
map and you'll
cover the underlying logic of the system. If your destination a street
in
is
arranged in a grid, with numbered
running north-south and lettered
loose cannons in the
city to get
—
named
after a state, the
is,
dis-
in fact,
underlying grid of number- and
on
letter-
you there and can even help you locate your block. popular destination for both tourists and power seekers is
streets will get
example:
A
600 Pennsylvania Avenue,
NW
Since this well-known street snakes a
A
Geographic Overview of Washington
1
1
course from the poor neighborhoods of Southeast Washington through
downtown and into Georgetown, pinpointing an exact address is tough. The clue, however, is in the street address: The White House is near the intersection of Pennsylvania Avenue and 16th Street. Note: The two blocks of Pennsylvania Avenue immediately in front of the White House are closed to vehicles.
NAVIGATING THE CITY
. .
|
Confused by Washington's quadrant street addresses
—Northeast, Southeast,
Northwest, Southwest? Relax. Virtually everything that interests tourists
is
in
Northwest. If it
looks
like you'll
be
riding
Metro twice or more a
worry about
pass for $6.50, and you won't have to
day.
figuring
purchase a one-day
out fares
(you'll
save
money, too).
parking If
i
Georgetown or Adams-Morgan on your
Is
is
beyond lousy
—so take
itinerary?
Metro doesn't go there,
a cab instead.They're cheap and plentiful
you ignore our advice and drive to Washington, do yourself a
your route
favor:
in
D.C.
map out
advance, avoid rush hour on weekdays, and arrive early on
in
1
weekends.
Finding Your Way Once you
hang of
get the
snap. You'll have a head
arranged.
it,
you know the
start if
The roughly diamond-shaped
south, east,
way around Washington
finding your
cit)^'s
is
how D.C.
a is
four corners point north,
Washington
west. Inside the diamond,
and
basics of
is
laid
out in a
rectilinear, gridlike plan and divided into four pie-wedge-shaped quad-
rants:
Northwest (NW), Northeast (NE), Southwest (SW), and South-
east (SE); in the center
of the pie
the quadrants and running
North Capitol
Street, East
What happened
to
from the Capitol
to the
in
is
the U.S. Capitol building. Separating
compass directions from the Capitol
West Capitol Potomac
Street?
It's
the Mall, which runs west
River.
Within each quadrant, numbered streets
are
Capitol Street, and South Capitol Street.
run north-south, and lettered
streets
run east-west. Addresses on lettered
streets give a clue to the
num-
bered cross street at the end of the block. For example, the National Building
Museum
4th and 5th Surprise:
one
at
Streets,
401 F
Street,
NW,
is
located
on F
Street
between
NW.
Washington has four
for each quadrant.
As
First Streets, four
a result, addresses
E
Streets,
and
so on,
must bear designations such
as
NW to prevent utter confiasion. The good news for short-term
is
that they can virtually ignore the quadrants: virtually
all
visitors
tourist sights,
102
Part Four
Arriving and Getting Oriented
and
hotels, restaurants,
nightlife are in
Northwest Washington. North-
and Southeast Washington, with the exception of the middle-class enclave of Capitol Hill, are predominantly poor and less commercially east
developed, while tiny Southwest
Avenues are named sin, etc.)
is
mostly middle-class.
after states (Connecticut, Massachusetts,
and cut diagonally
oughfares and do a good job of disrupting the
and
the avenues meet at circles Dupont
Circle
Washington
(New Hampshire and and Rhode
Scott Circle (Massachusetts
Here's a
major thor-
traffic pattern.
Downtown,
Island
rundown of some major
New
are:
Hampshire Avenues)
Pennsylvania Avenues)
MountVernon Square (Massachusetts and
the
Wiscon-
are
most noteworthy of which
squares, the
(Connecticut, Massachusetts, and
Circle
Some
across the street grid.
Avenues, and 16th Street)
New York Avenues)
roads that visitors will encounter in
city:
Pennsylvania Avenue runs into
from Southeast and Capitol
Hill
through
downtown and
Georgetown. The two blocks of Pennsylvania Avenue immediately
the White
House are closed to
in
front of
vehicles.
Georgetown and
leads north to the Maryland suburbs.
Wisconsin Avenue starts
in
Connecticut Avenue runs
from Lafayette Square,
in
front of the White House,
through Dupont Circle, past the National Zoo, and into Chevy Chase, Maryland. 16th Street,
NW, heads due north from
and merges with Georgia Avenue
K
Street,
NW,
Constitution
is
a major east-west
in
the White
House through Adams-Morgan
the Maryland suburbs.
downtown
business artery.
and Independence Avenues run east-west along the
NewYork Avenue
is
a
Washington and turns 14th Street, SW,
is
a
Mall.
major artery that runs from the White House to Northeast into
US 50 and
the Baltimore-Washington Parkway.
major point of egress to and from the Virginia suburbs.
Massachusetts Avenue runs from Union Station through
Dupont
Circle,
up Embassy
Row, and past Washington National Cathedral and American University on
its
way
to Maryland.
Things the Natives Already The Metro:An
Know
Introduction
The first section of Washington's clean, modern, safe, and efficient subway system opened in 1976, just in time for the nation's bicentennial celebrations.
As the
five-line
system has expanded over the years, the rave
reviews keep coming. All of the stations follow the beige color scheme, with high, curved ceilings
same brown-and-
made of square
concrete
panels that fade into the distance. Monotonous, maybe, but the stations are safe
and make the
lives
of visitors infinitely
easier.
Know
Things the Natives Already
The
103
and
trains themselves are clean, quiet, carpeted, virtually crime-free,
air-conditioned.
They run
Morgan), the Metro
delivers visitors within a comfortable
of everywhere they might want to go inside the
Even
if,
like a lot
city
Adams-
walking distance
and into the suburbs.
of Americans, you're not comfortable with the idea of
on public transportation, Washington provides
relying
nec-
isn't really
exceptions (trendy Georgetown and hip
With two notable
essary.
so often that carrying a schedule
a strong argu-
car. The ment for seriously reconsidering your love affair excuse not to use There's really no Metro system is easy, even fun, to ride. how. chapter on it. Later, in Part Five, we include a
with your
Taxis Washington's cab
but the
fares are low,
fare
system
is
weird: Fares are
based on zones, not a meter. You can go 2 blocks from one zone to
another and be charged more than for a 12-block ride within one zone.
know
helps to
It
the zones.
Washington has more cabs per capita than any other American
city.
But
other than for schlepping your luggage to and from National Airport or
Union
Station, or dining out in subway-free
Georgetown and Adams-
are superfluous, thanks to the Metro.
Morgan, cabs
Take the
train instead.
In our experience, Washington cabbies are polite and friendly. Yet
good idea driver
beginning of the
to ask for a receipt at the
know
that you're not
Most
sight-seeing attractions
strange hows, whats,
more
a
some inexperienced out-of-towner and you
many
won't tolerate being charged for a roundabout route through zones.
it's
ride, just to let the
and wheres of
and
hotels are in
taxi travel in
D.C.
Zone
1.
(The
are discussed in
detail in Part Five.)
Traffic If at all possible, avoid driving
arrive
by
car,
make
during your stay in Washington. If you
sure your hotel has parking
and
is
either within walk-
ing distance to a Metro station (more on that in Part Five) or offers con-
venient shuttles to one. Park your car and, with few exceptions, don't
plan on moving
it
until
you
Here's why: Driving in
your car near major tourist hopeless. vards,
The
city
is
and one-way
leave.
Washington
a bewildering streets that
is
infuriating,
and trying
and government buildings
sites
mix of traffic
circles,
is
to
park
usually
diagonal boule-
change direction depending on the time
of day. To make matters worse, some avenues change names for no apparent reason.
And
regular traffic
One
the volume of traffic? The Washington column "Dr. Gridlock" for nothing.
last note: You'll see a lot
license plates imprinted with the
a car
is
of cars with cute
Post do^sni call
red, white,
word "Diplomatic." The
associated with a foreign embassy
its
and blue
driver of such
and has diplomatic immunity
1
04
Arriving and Getting Oriented
Part Four
from many
local laws
—including
wide berth. (We cover driving
in
traffic violations.
more
Give these
cars a
detail in Part Five.)
The Neighborhoods Arguably, Washington
the
is
most important
city in the world.
When
most people think of D.C., they conjure up an image of the Mall, anchored by the U.S. Capitol at the east end and the Lincoln Memorial
on the
On
other.
its
end alone, the Mall
east
museums and attractions. In with the White House just to While
there's
much to
see
the center
is
features at least
1 1
major
the Washington
Monument,
who
don't get be-
the north.
and do on the Mall,
visitors
the two-mile strip of green are missing a lot of what this vibrant, in-
yond
ternational
has
city
to
brick sidewalks
offer:
front of
in
colonial-era row houses in Georgetown, the bohemian
Morgan,
townhouses and mansions near Dupont
stately
cafes
charming of Adams-
Circle, the glitter
and overflowing street life in the "new downtown" along K Street, NW. At the very least, a foray off the Mall can elevate your trip beyond the level of an educational grade-school
and
field trip
give
you
a taste of the lively city
itself All the neighborhoods that follow are safe for visitors to explore
on
foot, except
where noted. For more
on zones,
details
see page 7,
"Geographic Zones."
The Southwest Waterfront
A
(in
Zone
fascinating array of private yachts
front area, a stretch along restaurants, fresh fish
I)
on view
Maine Avenue
in Washington's water-
that features marinas, seafood
and the Wharf Seafood Market, where
and Chesapeake Bay
Here's where
Potomac
is
you can take
Spirit.
It's
delicacies
such
visitors
as oysters
a scenic river cruise to
easy to get to the waterfront:
can sample
on the half shell.
Mount Vernon on
Take the subway
the
to the
Waterfront Metro station.
Capitol Hill
(in
Zone
2)
The neighborhood surrounding
the Capitol
is
a
mix of
residential
and
commercial, with plenty of restored townhouses and trendy bars. Called
"The
Hill"
by
natives, here congressional staffers,
and poor people commingle
—sometimes not
urban homesteaders,
so successfully: Street crime
can be a problem. Blocks can change character abruptly from one end to the other, but
if you
Downtown
(in
don't
Zone
wander
far
from the Capitol
itself you'll
be okay.
3)
Directly north of the Mall
is
"old
downtown," an
area undergoing a ren-
Washington Convention Center and the popInternational Spy Museum. It's a neighborhood full of department
aissance symbolized by the ular
stores,
government
office buildings (including the FBI), shops, street
Things the Natives Already
Know
105
vendors, hotels, restaurants, two Smithsonian museums. Ford's Theatre,
Chinatown, and the Washington Convention Center. To the west
a tiny is
"new downtown," the gUttery
glass
and
buildings where
steel office
D.C.'s legions of lobbyists and lawyers do their thing. Both areas offer
of choices for shopping, dining, and sight-seeing.
visitors plent)'
Foggy Bottom
Zone
(in
4)
Located west of the White House, Foggy Bottom got
swampy
land on which
it
was
Today,
built.
it's
home
to
its
name from
ton University, the U.S. Department of State ("Foggy Bottom" nalese for "State"), the
Kennedy Center, and
the
George Washingis
jour-
the Watergate. Closer to the
Mall, massive government office complexes such as the Department of the Interior
and the Federal Reserve crowd the White House.
Georgetown
A
(in
Zone
5)
long before Washington was
river port
built,
epitome of swank. From a distance, Georgetown able by filled
its
skyline of spires.
traffic
An
Metro
congestion
is
is
immediately
now
the
identifi-
The neighborhood of restored townhouses
with crowded bars and shops, and the
into the night.
Georgetown
streets pulse
with crowds
is
late
overflow of suburban teens on weekends makes for
even by Washington standards; lack of a
that's intense,
station only
makes
worse. Georgetown University marks the
it
The Chesapeake & Ohio Canal and its Georgetown and follow the Potomac River upstream for 184 miles to Cumberland, Maryland. When you've had enough of the city, rent a bike and see how far you can get. neighborhood's western edge.
famous towpath begin
in
Adams-Morgan (in Zone 6) An ethnic neighborhood with a Adams-Morgan
African,
of
after the price
real estate
and 1980s. While
monuments, shops, isn't
is
it
zoomed around Dupont Circle in the 1970s much in the way of large museums or
doesn't offer
the neighborhood
and nightclubs. Parking,
Dupont
Circle (in
Circle
is
Zone
is
full
alas, is a
served by the Metro. Don't
Dupont
heavy emphasis on the Hispanic and
where young and cool bohemians migrated
let
of ethnic restaurants, eclectic severe problem:
Adams-Morgan
that stop you; take a cab.
6)
the center of one of the
city's
most fashionable neighbor-
hoods, where you'll find elegantly restored townhouses, boutiques, restaurants, cafes, bookstores,
and
art galleries.
(along Massachusetts Avenue) leads past cellories, as well as
House, the Center.
some of Washington's
Phillips Collection,
You can
A
stroll
down Embassy Row
sumptuous embassies and chanbest visitor attractions:
Woodrow Wilson House, and
Anderson
the Islamic
recognize an embassy by the national coat-of-arms or
flag;
1
06
Arriving and Getting Oriented
Part Four
a pack of reporters
has erupted
and
somewhere
Rock Creek Park It's
TV cameras may indicate that international unrest in the world.
Zone
(in
7)
not a neighborhood but a managed forest in the heart of Washington
well worth
mountain
away
knowing about. Hikers, joggers, in-line skaters, and anyone wishing an escape from the summer,
here. In the
Upper Northwest Here's
equestrians, city
bikers,
(in
can get
ten degrees cooler than the rest of the
it's
Zone
city.
7)
where the Washington National Cathedral, the National Zoo, the
Hillwood Museum, the
city's
Without
zens are found.
and
best private schools,
clear boundaries to separate
its
wealthiest
citi-
them, Tenleytown,
Glover Park, Woodley Park, and Cleveland Park are
full
of Victorian
houses that are homes to members of Congress, rich lobbyists, and attorneys. Attention, joggers: This
Anacostia
The
(in
city's first
Zone
for a nighttime run.
9)
suburb today
shootings, drug dealing, called
where you go
is
sits
in the
and random
midst of a war zone of drive-by
When
violence.
"Murder Capital of the U.S.," the reference
is
Washington
is
usually to a large
swath of Northeast and Southeast Washington across the Anacostia River
from downtown. While Anacostia
is
well off the beaten tourist path,
Cedar
attractions visitors should take the time to explore:
there are
two
Hill, the
home of
nineteenth-century abolitionist Frederick Douglass,
and the Smithsonian's Anacostia Museum. Either drive or
ride special
tourist buses (not public transportation) to visit these attractions.
Customs and Protocol Dress
In spite of
relaxed
town under the
and the
vestiges
its
status as a
surface.
world
The
of an inferiority complex
mean
aren't
an ostentatious crowd. For men,
of work, while most
women
stick to
suits
power
is
a fairly
laid-back Southern heritage relative to older East
by the way they
cities
that Washingtonians,
Washington
capital,
city's
and
ties
suits
dress
and
Coast
socialize,
remain the uniform
with padded shoulders
in neutral colors for office wear.
Tourists have diplomatic ever. In
immunity from
this
daytime and around the major tourist
look the part: If
it's
hot,
dreary dress code, how-
areas,
it's
wear a T-shirt and bermudas
perfectly as
you
okay
stroll
to
the
Mall with three cameras around your neck. You won't be alone. For forays up Connecticut Avenue and into Georgetown, though, leave the cameras
The crowds
and loud Hawaiian print
are better dressed
you'll really stand
shirts in
and hipper, and
out in the crowd.
if
you
your hotel room. don't follow suit,
— Know
Things the Natives Already Washington, we're glad to report,
which makes
easy
it
on
visitors.
quite informal after 5 p.m.
is
With few
exceptions,
about going out to a restaurant without a
tie,
and
men
needn't worry
women
can
uniform
fortable wearing slacks. If there's a casual, after-work
com-
feel
in this city,
probably the preppie look: chinos, Docksiders, and an Izod shirt for
it's
men and Eating
similar attire for
in
women.
Washington,
Restaurants
inexpensive ethnic restaurants
Greek, Afghani
.
.
.
the
list
a recommendation. Since say,
New
Tipping ton?
Is
the tip
Here
service.
—
made
to feel
are
is
you normally yes. Just
some
Porters, Redcaps,
of
itself as seriously as,
uncomfortable in a Japanese
crowded
eateries, since
dining out
of Washingtonians.
leave at
bear in
needn't feel waitress for
your miso soup. Expect to be elbow
for
in the
ftill-time activity for a lot
The answer
city, is ftill
Most are casual and you menus just ask the waiter or
spoon
elbow with other diners
seems to be a
an international
as
Ethiopian, Thai, Vietnamese, Lebanese,
Washington doesn't take
York, you won't be
restaurant if you request a
—
goes on.
intimidated about unfamiliar
to
107
mind
home
appropriate in Washing-
that a tip
is
a reward for
good
guidelines:
and Bellmen
At
least
$ -$2 per bag and $5 for I
a lot of baggage
Cab
Drivers
1
5%
of the fare. Add an extra dollar
If
the
cabbie does a lot of luggage handling Valet Parking
Waiters
Bartenders
Chambermaids Checkroom Attendants
in
$l-$2 1
1
5-20%
of the pretax
bill
0- 5% of the pretax
bill
1
$l-$2perday $
I
per garment
Restaurants or Theaters
Going Where the Locals Go
During the week,
you'll
from the Mall or the Washington Convention Center
have to get away
if
you want
shoulders with native Washingtonians. But not too far bars
and
restaurants are
crowded with congressional
to rub
—Capitol
Hill
aides, lobbyists, sec-
retarial staff, and even the odd congressperson or two. During the lunch hour on weekdays (but not weekends and holidays), L'Enfant Plaza is
jammed with
bureaucrats from the myriad concrete-enclosed agencies
located south of Independence Avenue.
North of the White House, the "new downtown" (roughly from 15th Street,
NW,
west to Rock Creek Park)
is
an area of glass-enclosed office
buildings where lawyers, lobbyists, and other professionals ply their trades
—and
ington's
take their clients to lunch.
bohemian
international,
Dupont
Circle, formerly
Wash-
quarter, remains headquarters to Washington's artist,
and gay communities.
1
08
How Not like
Arriving and Getting Oriented
Part Four
to
Look Like a Tourist
A Visitor on
If
it's
important to you not to look
Holiday in Our Nation's Capital, we
offer the following
advice:
Never say "Washington"
1.
say the
Be
2. 3.
name of the
full
—
it's
city,
"D.C."
to the natives. If
pronounce
obsessive, if not maniacal,
it
about the Redskins.
and carry
For men, wear a coat and
tie,
women, wear power
with padded shoulders.
suits
you must
"Worshington."
a briefcase at
all
times. For
4.
Tuck a Washington Post under your arm and march up Connecticut Avenue with a determined stride.
5.
Be
blase about Washington's tourist attractions:
to the
Clutch an espresso,
6.
Deny
ever going
Mall except in the company of small children. latte,
or cappuccino in one
baked, multigrain olive loaf in the other:
about fresh bread and coffee
hand and
The
a just-
natives are wild
bars.
Tips for the Disabled Washington abled.
is
one of the most
The White House,
accessible cities in the
world for the
for example, has a special entrance
vania Avenue for visitors arriving in wheelchairs, and
White House
guides usually allow visually handicapped visitors to touch
items described tor,
on
tours.
complete with
Braille
number
museum
All Smithsonian as are all
Each Metro
museum
floors.
station
some of
equipped with an
is
dis-
on Pennsylthe
eleva-
plates.
buildings are accessible to wheelchair visitors,
For a copy of "Smithsonian Access"
call
(202)
357-2700 or (202) 357-1729 (TDD). Folks headed to the National Zoo can get a copy of the Zoo Guide for Disabled Visitors by calling (202)
673-4717 or (202) 673-4823 (TDD). The Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials and the Washington Monument are equipped to accommodate disabled visitors.
want
Most
to avoid a lot
Needs" on page
The
who
33
in Part Five for
more information.
Local Press
Washington ate
1
sight-seeing attractions have elevators for others
of stair climbing. See our section "People with Special
is
a city of
news junkies, and the Washington Post is the opi-
of choice. Visitors should make a point of picking up Friday's edition,
which includes the tion
on things
to
paper's
do
in
"Weekend"
section.
and around Washington;
of a Friday Post on your way into town for
The Washington conservative slant
It's
loaded with informa-
if
you can, grab
a
Times, D.C.'s other daily newspaper, offers a
on
national
and world
copy
the weekend.
events.
more
Things the Natives Already City Paper, a free weekly "alternative" newspaper,
source of information on reviews.
It's
is
Know
09
another good
popular music, and movie
arts, theater, clubs,
from street-corner vending machines and
available
1
stores
all
over town. Washingtonian, a monthly magazine,
The
restaurants, etc.)
and feature
and provides
strong on
lists
(top 10
articles.
Where/Washington things to
is
of events, dining information,
a calendar
is
one of
list
popular
on Washington
theater,
several free publications that
do around town.
Visitors looking for the latest information nightlife, restaurants, special exhibitions,
and
gallery
shows
in
advance of
their trip should call or write:
Where/Washington Magazine, 1225 19th
D.C. 20036-2411. Phone
ington,
L
Washingtonian, 1828
The
Street,
NW,
Suite 510,
Wash-
(202) AG?>A'b^^.
Street,
NW,
D.C.
Suite 200, Washington,
20036. Phone (202) 331-0715.
Telephones The Washington
area
served by three area codes: (202) inside the Dis-
is
(703) in the Northern Virginia suburbs across the Potomac River,
trict,
and (301), which connects you with the Maryland suburbs. To dial out of D.C. to suburbs beyond the city's limits, it's necessary to dial the right area code. While calls to Arlington, Alexandria, and most of Fairfax
County
in Virginia
Maryland calls
and
to
Montgomery and
(50 cents from most pay phones).
Rooms
Rest
Field researchers for the Unofficial
writing ability
skills,
fice,
Prince George's Counties in
are dialed as if they're long distance, they are charged as local
.
.
Guide are selected for
and small bladders.
.
you can be sure we're not
their reporting
When we enter a marble edi-
just scrutinizing the layout, the flow
crowd, and the aesthetics: We're also nervously eyeing the
of the
real estate for
we can unload that second cup of coffee. rest room department? Actually, of the huge number of museums, monuments,
the nearest public facility where
So
how
does Washington rate in the
pretty well. That's because
federal office buildings, restaurants, bars,
that cover the
city.
Leading any
and Space in the
men
it
seem
at the
rooms
rest
rest
department
are clean
room
the Mall. For
comes
many women's
don't
rest
of great
Museum on
world when
times as
works
list
Most
stores,
and conveniently
women who
as there are
to notice," says a female
information desk.
hotels
located.
locations should be the National Air
claim there's no justice
to toilet parity, consider this:
rooms
and
men's
rest
There
are three
rooms. "And the
Smithsonian employee
who
1
Arriving and Getting Oriented
Part Four
1
Other
of note on the Mall include those
facilities
Gallery of Art, the Arthur
M.
at the
National
Sackler Gallery, the Hirshhorn
Museum
and Sculpture Garden, and the National
rooms
rest
in the National
on
niently located facilities are
in
The
Museum
of African Art.
The
of Natural History are inconve-
At the Arts and Industries Building,
a lower level.
located far
rooms
the rest
Museum
away from the front entrance.
On the other hand,
Castle, the Smithsonian's visitor center, are easy to
find and usually not very crowded. Virtually
the
all
monuments
room-equipped, including the
are rest
Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials and the Washington Monument.
Downtown,
and bars
hotels, restaurants,
are
good
bets.
Avenue
are
Monument and
tion are the
the Mall.)
new
rooms
Dupont
at
You won't
(An excep-
Circle; they're usually dirty.
World War II Memorial on Metro stations, although a few
rooms
find rest
in
complexes that do provide
rest
rooms, including
Metro Center, Farragut North, and L'Enfant
Station,
rest
on the grounds of the Washing-
restrooms at the National
stations are located in
Union
rest
both convenient and elegant.) Avoid the few public
rooms located in parks, such as the ones ton
(The
on Connecticut
off the huge lobby of the Stouffer Mayflower Hotel
Plaza.
How to Avoid Crime and Keep Safe in Public Places
Crime
in
Washington
The combination of a widespread
crack epidemic and the availability of
high-powered weaponry put Washington on the
"Murder Capital of the United
tinction:
States."
map
for a
dubious
dis-
Anyone who watches
the
evening news or reads a newspaper knows about Washington's grim murder
rate.
safe
So the question
arises, as
Washington anyway?
is
"It's
Am
the force
who
as
long
as
you
a trip to D.C.: Just
going to end up just another
how
statistic?
D.C.'s Metropolitan Police
stay in proscribed areas. Ryan, a veteran of
has worked special anticrime details around the Mall and
popular tourist
sites,
"Washington
explains,
very strongly, because tourism
To
you contemplate
Rod Ryan of
very safe," says Officer
Department,
I
get an idea of
is all
how much
visitor gets, consider this fact:
D.C.'s finest patrolling the
its
main
visitor areas
protection the average tourist or business It's
city.
patrols
the city has for income."
not just Officer Ryan and the
rest
of
Contributing to the task are a number of
other law enforcement agencies whose jobs include protecting visitors:
The
U.S. Park Police patrols the monuments, the U.S. Capitol Police
protects the Capitol
and the 20-square-block area around
Secret Service patrols the area
around the White House.
it,
and the
Plus, the
Metro
1
"
How to Avoid Crime has
own
its
and Keep Safe
in
Public Places
1
1
police force for protecting people riding public transporta-
not
tion. That's
Post-Sept. 11, a
all:
new network of security cameras
has
been added on the Mall by the Park Police and the Metropolitan Police has installed a network of security cameras in high-traffic areas such as
Georgetown, Union Station and around the White House. "Police are patrolling on bicycles, on horseback, on small motorcycles, on foot,
has
and
its
unmarked
in
own
police force
cars," explains Officer
—
Ryan. "And the Smithsonian
the buildings and around the grounds.
ing for can spot five police patrols from anywhere Statistics support his claim: D.C.'s overall
ing steadily for the
From
—
who patrol inside what he's lookwho knows Anyone
highly trained federal officers
on the Mall."
crime rate has been declin-
decade, according to the Metropolitan Police.
last
a high of 454 homicides in 1994, the rate
number of murders
Halfway through 2004, the
dropped is
to
down 27
242
pared to the previous year, which recorded 248 murders.
crime rate
doing even
is
So, who's
on the
better,
percent over the
young drug
events in
D.C,
about the same
as
anywhere
else.
in sections of the city visitors
dential areas that are tricts.
The worst
to
go to quite an
city center
effort to get there,
aries
mayhem
wander
who
and
even by mistake.
He leads a mountain bike 75% in one of the worst sec-
should know:
by
Georgetown, upper Northwest, Dupont
street,
is
it
safer
a legislative aide
was
powerful congressmen
live
not to be well patrolled."
November 1997,
Starting in
many
Circle,
any other area that out-of-
as safe for visitors as
towners frequent. Ryan explains, "Too
Washington
across
across the bridge over the Anacostia
Adams-Morgan, and downtown. Even Capitol Hill, which gained notoriety when
in Capitol Hill for
resi-
business/tourist dis-
Washington. "Visitors should stay within the bound-
of the Mall,
murdered on the
are
usually occurs
the major visitor areas. You'd have
patrol that has helped reduce street crime tions of Southeast
are rare
and Southeast Washington,
downtown and
River," says Officer Ryan,
Most
do not normally frequent: low-income,
areas are in Northeast
"Tourists should never
Random murders
Furthermore, the
removed from the
the Anacostia River from
fire?
and police say the odds here
reputation,
its
overall
9 years.
dealers in shootouts with competitors
or people involved in violent domestic disputes. despite
The
last
end of all that automatic weapons
receiving
of the victims are either
down 35
2000.
in
percent com-
and
cleaner:
visitors
began seeing
Downtown SAM
a
new
(Safety
nance) Teams, easily recognized by their bright red
attire.
force
making
and Mainte-
By cleaning
and sidewalks, removing graffiti, and assisting visitors, SAM Teams are creating a safer environment downtown. According to the D.C. Metropolitan Police, in April 1998 downtown Washington saw a streets
54%
drop
in
crime compared to April 1997, while more than 10,000
1
1
Arriving and Getting Oriented
Part Four
2
more than 25,000 workers and
bags of garbage were collected and
were aided. Visitors are encouraged to stop a
tors
and ask
for directions, get a restaurant
visi-
SAM Team member
recommendation, or get directions
for finding a landmark.
Having a Plan Random
violence and street crime are facts of life in any large
got to be cautious and alert and plan ahead.
When
you
You've
city.
are out
and
work under the assumption that you must use caution because you are on your own; if you run into trouble, it's unlikely that police or anyone else will be able to come to your rescue. You must give about, you must
some advance thought an escape plan just in
might occur, and con-
to the ugly scenarios that
both preventive measures that
sider
will
Not being
case.
keep you out of harm's way and
a victim of street crime
survival-of-the-fittest thing. Just as a lion stalks the
the antelope herd, muggers put,
no matter where you
felons to think of you as a
On
For
the Street
get if
you
alert,
be
and
are or
bad
are doing,
sort
of a
Simply
you want potential
risk.
are with other people. Second, if
alert,
is
member of
thieves target the easiest victim.
what you
you always present
starters,
weakest
and always have
at least
less
of an appealing
you must be out
tar-
alone, act
one of your arms and hands
free.
Felons gravitate toward preoccupied folks, the kind found plodding
along staring at the sidewalk, with both arms encumbered by briefcases or packages. Visible jewelry (on either
kind of attention. Men, keep your pocket.
Women,
Here's another tip: sive one, carried in
accosted.
Your
real
one
Men
This
money
approach.
is
the one
you hand over
second wallet hidden elsewhere on
A
Police will
his
tell
you
that a felon has the least
intended victim during the few
good
strategy, therefore,
is
as quickly as possible. If a felon starts
in
opposite direction.
you're
belt.
for instance, quickly take out it
if
and the bulk of whatever cash you have
clip or a
money
If You're Approached
one) and hurl
if
strap.
can carry a fake wallet in their purse and keep the
amount of control over
money,
wrong
can carry two wallets, including one inexpen-
real credit cards
Women
crime scenario
attracts the
your front trouser or coat
on over your shoulder bag
it
credit cards.
in a pocket or
his initial
women)
your hip pocket, containing about $20 in cash and
should be in either a
your person.
or
keep your purses tucked tightly under your arm;
you're wearing a coat, put
some expired
men
billfolds in
your
by demanding your
billfold (preferably
one direction while you run shouting
The odds
are greatly in
moments of
to short-circuit the
your fake
for help in the
your favor that the felon
prefer to collect your silent billfold rather than pursue you. If
will
you hand
3
How to Avoid Crime
and Keep Safe
Public Places
in
1
1
over your wallet and just stand there, the felon will likely ask for your
watch and jewelry
next. If you're a
woman,
you hang around,
the longer
the greater your vulnerability to personal injury or rape.
Secondary Crime Scenes
Under no circumstance,
police warn, should
you ever allow yourself to be taken to another location
—
a "secondary
crime scene" in police jargon. This move, they explain, provides the felon
more privacy and consequently more control. A felon can rob you on the street very quickly and efficiently. If he tries to remove you to another location,
whether by car or on
more
mind than
in
foot,
robbery. Even
it is
a certain indication that he has
gun or
the felon has a
if
knife,
your
chances are infinitely better running away. If the felon grabs your purse, let
him have
If he grabs
it.
your money or coat
your
coat,
come out of the
Another maxim: Never believe anything a felon telling
you something you desperately want
won't hurt you
if
coat.
Hanging onto
not worth getting mugged, raped, or murdered.
is
you come with me."
No
tells
you, even
how
matter
logical or
he sounds, assume the worst. Always, always, break off contact as possible,
even
if
that
In Public Transport the driver as
you
near the driver's
benign quickly
as
means running.
When
riding a bus, always take a seat as close to
can; never ride in the back. Likewise,
on
the subway,
sit
or attendant's compartment. These people have a phone
summon
and can
if he's
to believe, for example, "I
help in the event of trouble.
While it is possible to hail a cab on the street in Washingsomewhat vulnerable in the process. Particularly afi:er dusk, call a reliable cab company and stay inside while they dispatch a cab to your door. When your cab arrives, check the driver's certificate, which In Cabs
you
ton,
are
must, by law, be posted on the dashboard. Address the cabbie by his last name (Mr. Jones or whatever) or mention the number of his cab. This alerts the driver to the fact that
his cab.
Not only will
this
you
cabbie from trying to run up the If you are
via
your
fare
it
will also
keep your
fare.
comfortable reading maps, familiarize yourself with the most
your destination ahead of time.
direct route to
town
remember him and/or
are going to
contribute to your safety,
Wisconsin Avenue,
If
please," the driver
you can
is
say,
"George-
less likely to
by taking a circuitous route so he can charge you
run up
for three zones
instead of two. If
you need
to catch a cab at the train station or at
one of the
airports,
always use the taxi queue. Taxis in the official queue are properly licensed
and
regulated.
Never accept an
in the terminal or
charged for the
offer for a cab or
baggage claim. At
ride.
best,
At worst, you may
you
limo made by a stranger
will
be significantly over-
be abducted.
1
1
Arriving and Getting Oriented
Part Four
4
Personal Attitude While some
more dangerous than
areas of every city are
assume that any area
is
completely
can be the victim of a crime, and
safe.
Never
others, never
down your
let
guard.
You
can happen to you anywhere. If you
it
go to a restaurant or nightspot, use valet parking or park in a well-lighted
Women
lot.
leaving a restaurant or club alone should never be reluctant
to ask to be escorted to their car.
Never
your pride or sense of righteousness and indignation imperil
let
This
your
survival.
men
in the presence of women.
is
especially difficult for
many men,
makes no
It
approached by an aggressive drunk, an unbalanced actual felon, the rule as
is
quickly as possible.
the same: Forget your pride
Who
cares
some
if
in
and your jaw sewn
street people,
shut,
too late to
all
and even some drunks play and
They can
beyond the imagination of most people. Believe
attack with a bloodthirsty hostility
do you want
it's
that important.
that
their league (nor
an
and break off contact
keeps. is
are
When you wake up
decide that the drunk's filthy remark wasn't really Felons, druggies,
you
street person, or
whether the drunk insulted you,
everyone ends up back at the hotel safe and sound? the hospital with a concussion
particularly for
difference whether
hellish
us,
you
for
abandon
are not in
to be).
Self-defense In a situation where
it is
impossible to run, you'll need to be prepared to
defend yourself Most policemen use to the average person.
More
gun or knife
insist that a
often than not, they
is
the
say,
not
much
weapon
will
be turned against the victim. Additionally, concealed firearms and knives
most
are illegal in
age person
is
jurisdictions.
Mace. Not only
The
is it
best self-defense device for the aver-
legal in
most
states, it
is
nonlethal and
easy to use.
When you about eight
shop for Mace, look for two things:
feet,
and
it
It
should be able to
should have a protector cap so
mistake in your purse or pocket. Carefully read the directions that
with your device, paying particular attention to
and
stored,
Wearing
and how long the
how
come
should be carried
it
remain potent.
active ingredients will
a rubber glove, test-fire your
fire
won't go off by
it
Mace, making sure that you
fire
downwind.
When you
are out
ily accessible, say,
about town, make sure your Mace
is
attached to your keychain. If you are a
someplace
eas-
woman and you
keep your Mace on a keychain, avoid the habit of dropping your keys (and the Mace) into the bowels of your purse
room
or your
around until
in
car.
The Mace
your purse for
you have
it.
will
when you
not do you any good
if
leave
Keep your keys and your Mace
safely reached
your destination.
your hotel
you have in
to dig
your hand
5
How to Avoid Crime
and Keep Safe
Public Places
in
I
1
Carjackings With
the recent surge in carjackings, drivers also need to take special pre-
cautions.
"Keep
when
alert
D.C.
you're driving in
Officer
traffic,"
Ryan
warns. "Keep your doors locked, with the windows rolled up and the air conditioning or heat on. In traffic, leave enough space in front of you so
and can make
that you're not blocked in
and
approaches your car
That way,
a U-turn.
if
someone
beating on your windshield, you can drive
starts
off." Store
your purse or briefcase under your knees when you are driv-
ing, rather
than on the seat beside you.
and Scams
Ripoffs
First-time visitors to the Mail stepping off the escalator at the Smithson-
ian
Metro
are often confronted
museum ian museums
brochures. Don't
—and
Refer
who
them
by
for
fast-talking
visitors
need
watch out
to
down and and move on.
cop for help
More Things to Avoid When you do go out, walk with a minimum sible. If
you have
And
people around. tourist
when
don't
walk down
careful
ers are a
about
good
make
around you
is
the well-dressed fare.
of two people whenever pos-
alleys. It also
of
helps not to look like a
at buildings
and unfold maps on the sidewalk.
whom you ask for directions. (When
bet.)
Don't count your
cash as possible. At public phones,
ber to
you off
for
venturing away from the Mall. Don't wear a camera around
your neck, and don't gawk
Be
them
in well-lit areas that have plenty
walk alone, stay
to
try to sell
they need $5 for train
claim their car broke to a
men who
the brochures are free in Smithson-
it;
the fast-talkers are trying to rip
Another scam that couple
fall
a long-distance to hear.
call,
money
if you
in doubt,
in public,
must say your
don't say
it
shopkeep-
and carry
as little
calling card
num-
loud enough for strangers
And, with the exception of the Mall, avoid public Rock Creek Park at night.
parks after dark. In particular, don't go to
Help May Be CloserThan You Think While walking ities. If,
in
Washington,
office building for help.
who
try to be
despite your precautions,
The
you
aware of public and federal
are attacked,
entrances are
all
head
for
patrolled by
any
facil-
federal
armed guards
can offer assistance.
While
this litany
of warnings and precautions
may sound
grim,
it's
really commonsense advice that applies to visitors in any large American city. Keep in mind that Washington's reputation for crime is enhanced by
the worldwide media attention the city gets: Local news in Washington really national
news. Finally, remember that 2 1 million visitors a year
flock to the nation's capital,
making
it
one of the most
is
still
visited destinations
1
1
Arriving and Getting Oriented
Part Four
6
in the
United
States.
The overwhelming
with crime during their Washington
majority encounter no problems
visit.
The Homeless If you're
a shock city
is
not from a big city or haven't visited one in a while, you're in for
when you come
filled
Washington.
to
seems that every block in the
It
with shabbily dressed people asking for money. Furthermore,
downtown
along the Mall, near the national monuments, on
and
and gardens, you
in parks
will see
sleeping bags, their possessions piled
Georgetown
streets filled
sidewalks,
people sleeping in blankets and
up next
On
to them.
crowded
women
with opulent shops, homeless
with
small children beg for money. Drivers in cars are approached at stop-
by men carrying Magic-Marker-on-cardboard signs reading
lights
"Homeless
—Will Work
for Food." Virtually every
Metro
exit
is
choked
with clusters of people begging for money.
Who
"Most
Are These People?
D.C.
are lifelong
residents
who
are
poor," according to Joan Alker, assistant director of the National Coalition for the Homeless, an advocacy group headquartered in Washington.
"The people you see on the streets are primarily single men and women. A disproportionate number of them are minorities and people with
disabilities
have physical
—
they're either mentally
ill,
or substance abusers, or
disabilities."
Are They a Threat to Visitors?
"No," Ms. Alker
Washington show that homeless men have lower
says. "Studies
rates
done
in
of conviction for
We know that murders aren't make a blanket statement, but no more likely to commit a violent
violent crimes than the population at large.
being committed by the homeless.
most homeless people you
see are
I
can't
crime than other people."
Should You Give the Homeless Money?
Ms. Alker
"But
says.
tence by looking
no way
to
tell if
if
them
you
"That's a personal decision,"
can't, at least try to
in the eye
and
acknowledge
saying, 'No,
can't."
I
the guy with the Styrofoam cup asking for a
really destitute or just a
con
artist,
no one can dispute
that
their exis-
While
there's
handout
is
most of these
people are what they claim to be: homeless.
Ways to Help being both their
It's
really a
moved and
matter for your
own conscience. We confess
annoyed by these unfortunate people:
to
moved by
need and annoyed that we cannot enjoy the nation's capital without
running a gauntlet of begging
found that of quarters
change
it is
easier
at the
at all times.
men and women.
on the conscience and
In the final analysis,
spirit to get a
bank and carry an overcoat or
The
we
couple of rolls
jacket pocket full of
cost of giving those homeless
who
approach you a
How to Avoid Crime
and Keep Safe
quarter really does not add up to
all
that
is
a notion, perhaps valid in
Public Places
much, and
the psyche to respond to their plight than to
There
in
some
it is
much
deny or ignore
instances, that
17
I
better for
their presence.
money given
to
a homeless person generally goes toward the purchase of alcohol or drugs. If this bothers
you
some inexpensive
excessively, carry granola bars for distribution or
gift
coupons that can be redeemed
at a
buy
McDonald's or
other fast-food restaurant for coffee or a sandwich.
We have found that a litde kindness regarding the homeless goes a long way, and that a few kind words delivered along with your quarter or gra-
We
nola bar brighten the day for both you and your friend in need.
are
not suggesting a lengthy conversation or prolonged involvement, just
something simple
like,
"Sure,
I
can help a
little bit.
Take
care."
Those moved to get more involved in the nationwide problem of to the National Coalition or a check homelessness can send inquiries
—
for the
Homeless, 1012 l4th
—
Street,
NW,
Suite 600, Washington,
D.C.
20005-3471; (202) 737-6444; www.nationalhomeless.org.
Keep
It
Brief
Finally, don't play psychologist. All the
counter on the street are strangers. They
may be
people you en-
harmless, or they
may be
dangerous. Either way, maintain distance and keep any contact or en-
counter brief Be prepared to handle street people in accordance with just be prepared. If you have a druggie in
your principles, but mostly,
your face wanting a handout, the
last
thing you want to do
is
pull out
your wallet and thumb through the twenties looking for a one-dollar As the sergeant on Hill Street Blues used to say, be careful out there.
bill.
Part Five
Getting around
Washington
Driving Your Car: Traffic
A Really Bad Idea
Hot Spots
some bad news for anyone considering driving to our nation's capital: Washington is legendary for its traffic congestion. Let's start with the Capital Beltway (1-495 and 1-95), which encircles the city through the Virginia and Maryland suburbs: It's guaranteed to be logjammed on Here's
weekdays from 7 a.m. to 9:30 a.m. and again from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. Unremitting suburban growth and geography confound the best efforts of traffic engineers to alleviate the congestion. Inside the Beltway, the situation only gets worse.
The few
bridges that
connect Washington and Virginia across the Potomac River are rushhour botdenecks. Interstates 66 and 395 in Virginia have restricted carpool lanes inbound in the morning and outbound in the evening. Inside the District, Rock Creek Parkway becomes one-way during rush hour,
and major thoroughfares such as Connecticut Avenue switch the direction of center lanes to match the predominant flow of traffic at different
Downtown,
times of day.
the
city's
traffic
circles
can trap unwary
motorists and reduce drivers to tears or profanity. Pierre L'Enfant's
eighteenth-century grand plan of streets and avenues that intersect in traffic circles
is
a
nightmare for twenty-first-century motorists.
First-time drivers to
Washington should map out
their routes
in
advance, avoid arriving and departing during rush hour, and then leave
Lunch-hour
the car parked throughout their stay. ferocious,
and don't think
Washington's popularity crawl
that
weekends
as a tourist
on Saturdays and Sundays
news about driving sides, getting
in
in
Washington,
around town by car
is
are
mecca
warm
it's
this:
traffic
can be equally
immune from
traffic snarls:
slows Beltway traffic to a
weather. If there's any
good
After evening rush hour sub-
pretty easy.
119
Bronze pylons
(left) identify
stations; colored stripes at
show the
line
or
lines
Metro
top
served by
that station.
Metro system and neighborhood maps (below) are located in the mezzanine of each
station, as are
automated Farecard vending machines (bottom).
L *-
-
Riding the Metro: A Really
Good
Idea
121
Parking you ignore our advice about driving in Washington (we repeat: don't) battle your way downtown by car, you'll find yourself stuck in one of those good news/bad news scenarios. The good news: There are plenty of If
and
The bad
places to park.
arm and
garages that charge an
minimum. Think you can and
try,
is
a leg. Figure
lot
of quarters
the spaces are in parking
on $12
a
day or $5 an hour,
Go
museum
a
—
ahead
Most
and plenty of patience.
two hours
restricted to
on exploring
intent
all
beat the system by finding street parking?
but bring a
metered parking
news: Virtually
—
not a long time
if
you're
And
or attending a business meeting.
D.C. cops are quick to issue tickets for expired meters. Also, a lot of legal spaces turn illegal during afternoon rush hour.
In popular residential neighborhoods such as
Morgan,
Georgetown and Adams-
parking gets even worse at night. Unless you've got a residential
parking permit
—not
likely if you're
from out of town
limited to from two to three hours, depending
on
—
street
parking
the neighborhood.
is
The
parking permits are prominently displayed in the cars of area residents.
tempted
If you're
efficient at
whisking away
are hefty. If your car at
(202) 727-1010;
5000.
to park illegally, be
towed,
is
spaces
is
call
the
D.C. Department of Public Works
you're not sure if
if
Incredibly, there's free
weekdays; the limit
warned: D.C. police are grimly
parked in rush-hour zones, and the fines
cars
it
was towed,
call
(202) 727-
parking along the Mall beginning at 10 a.m.
three hours. Needless to say, competition for the
is fierce.
Riding the Metro:
A Really Good Idea
A Clean, Safe Alternative It
should be clear by
now that visitors who would prefer to spend their time
doing something productive rather than or around Washington.
and
forget
them
the parking
—
lots.
just
Thanks
sit
in traffic
jams shouldn't drive in
to the Metro, visitors can park their cars
remember you need
Five color-coded
subway
a
Metro
lines
farecard
and cash
to exit
connect downtown Wash-
ington to the outer reaches of the city and beyond to the Maryland and Virginia suburbs.
It's
a clean, safe,
money, and shoe leather
as
it
and
efficient
system that saves
ington should use the Metro as their primary
The seats,
trains are well
and
air
visitors time,
whisks them around town. Visitors to Wash-
mode of transportation.
maintained and quiet, with carpeting, cushioned
conditioning.
The
stations are
modern, well
lighted,
and
are uniformly constructed with high, arching
usually spotless,
and they
ceilings paneled
with sound-absorbing, lozenge-shaped concrete panels.
1
22
Getting around Washington
Part Five
The wide-open look of
and
the stations has been criticized as sterile
monotonous, but the design may explain why the Metro has maintained a crime-free reputation: There's
system
tion, the entire
each car
is
no place
bad guys
for
monitored by closed-circuit
to hide. In addi-
TV
cameras, and
equipped with passenger-to-operator intercoms,
is
platforms and elevators.
The Metro (nobody
And
cars
and
Metrorail,
calls it
as are rail
stations are nearly graffiti free.
name) transports more
its real
than half a million passengers a day along 103 miles of track and through
83
one
stations. Currently,
and three new
line extension
under construction (with two of them opening class
in late 2004).
stations are
a world-
It's
engineering marvel.
Trains operate so frequently that carrying a schedule
is
unnecessary. Dur-
ing peak hours (weekdays 5:30 a.m. to 9:30 a.m. and 3 p.m. to 8 p.m.), trains enter the stations every three to six minutes.
During
the interval increases to an average of 12 minutes;
it
on weekends. To maintain the
intervals
ofiF-peak hours,
can go to 20 minutes
throughout the
year, the
Metro
adds and deletes trains to compensate for holidays and peak tourist season.
Hours
of operation
a.m.
5:30
are
to
midnight
Monday
throughThursday, and 7 a.m. to 3 a.m. on weekends and holidays.
How to
Ride the Metro
Finding the Stations
Many (but,
unfortunately, not
all)
and number of blocks
direction
entrances are identified by
street signs in
Washington indicate the
Metro station. Station brown columns or pylons with an "M" on all to the nearest
four sides and a combination of colored stripes in red, yellow, orange, green, or blue that indicate the line or lines serving that station. Since
most
stations are
underground, users usually descend on escalators to the
mezzanine or ticketing part of the stations outside of
on the ground
station.
At above-ground and elevated
downtown Washington,
level.
At the kiosk located
with quick directions on
how
the mezzanine there, pick
up
is
most often
map
a system
to use the Metro.
Purchasing a Farecard Next comes the your
up
fare
tricky part:
You must determine your
ahead of time because the ticketing system
to the backlit, color-coded
map
destination
list
Then look on
and find
the
bottom
of stations reveals both the
(peak and off-peak) and the estimated travel time to each. Peak usually
more
from 3 p.m. station to
to
7 p.m. weekdays. Unless you're traveling from to another,
fare
fares,
expensive, are in effect from 5:30 a.m. to 9:30 a.m.
downtown, or from one suburb
and
automated. Walk
located in each mezzanine
the station nearest your ultimate destination.
of the map, where an alphabetized
is
and
a suburban
one-way
fare
is
Lnd older
neeo& " '"
UE
Rush hour and non-rush hour fares are
listed alphabetically at
each
station's kiosk (top).
Automated faregates, which control access in and out of spacious Metro stations, are located near the kiosk.The woman pictured here
124
is
exiting the station, (below)
Riding the Metro: A Really
A
typically $1.35 (non-rush hour).
Good
Idea
1
25
Before you walk away
final note:
from the map, make a mental note of the last station of the train that you plan to board, even though you're probably not traveling that far. The
name of your
destination
train's final
key to locating the right platform
—
name of
the
is
the one
whose
the train, thus the
trains are
going in the
photographs starting on page 120.)
right direction. (See
Farecard Vending Machines Those big vending machines
lining the walls of the mezzanine don't dis-
money and
pense sodas. Instead, they swallow your
magnetic tions.
you
stripes that get
Once you
and
in
get your card,
—
this
hang onto
with
issue farecards
crucial
is
—
out of Metro
sta-
it.
like this: Walk up to the farecard vending numeral "1" on the left: side at eye level. (We'll where you insert bills and/or coins. If your desti-
Buying a farecard works
machine and look Step
call this
nation
This
1.)
say, a
is,
for the
the
for the
amount
and you're making a round-trip, insert $2.70 slides in, look at the middle of the
fare,
As the money
into the machine.
machine
is
$1.35
numeral "2" (Step
where
2),
a digital readout registers
you've shoved into the contraption.
Machines that accept paper money invariably screw up, and these machines are no exception. They oftien spit back bills they don't like, so try
smoothing wrinkled
unfrayed greenbacks over
them and choose new,
before inserting
bills
bills
that are worn. Inserting coins
foolproof, but not very practical if you're riding the
Our
advice
is
to cut
possible
by plugging
buying a
ticket that
stiles
it's
on the
time to buy a
farecard
new one.
the possibility of losing the farecard while
value your time at
all,
take the
risk.
you wish
A
it's still
let
The computerized
afi:er
digital
you
bill,
lets
a
few bucks.
is
If you
readout at Step 2 are
adjust the readout to the
to purchase. For example, if
$2.70 and you inserted a $5
turn-
each use, which
worth
as
you're
major drawback, of course,
Below the
white "plus" and "minus" buttons that exact fare
at
nearly
much
once, which means
days or longer.
last several
print the remaining value
you know when
$20
in $5, $10, or even
is
lot.
using these infernal machines as
down on
can
Metro
a
your round-trip
fare
is
from $5 down to $2.70 you overshoot, push the
toggle the readout
by repeatedly pushing the "minus" button.
(If
"plus" button to increase the value.) Then look to the right side of the machine and the numeral "3" (Step 3), and press the button diat reads
"Press for Farecard." If all goes well (and, in
pops your farecard and your change
—
all
fairness,
it
usually does), out
in this case, $2.30 in change; the
(We toid you. to buy a $6.50 farecard.) downtown, the fewer farecard machines from The which usually isn't a problem at these mezzanines the walls of the line for less busy stations. For balky machines that won't take your money, or machines don't dispense farther out
you
bills.
get
—
126
Getting around Washington
Part Five
any problem
at
help
all,
is
only a few steps away
each station near the faregate. Inside
is
kiosk located at
at the
a breathing
human
who will
being
help. Don't be shy.
One
warning: If the farecard machine accepts $20
last
maximum amount
mind
that the
$4.95
—which means
keep in
bills,
of change the machine can
you're stuck buying a farecard with a
out
spit
is
minimum
value of $15.05.
Talking Fare
Metro at
has
Machines
installed
46 mezzanines
An
Passes/Farecards across the top.
you through the
voice guide
express
talking
farecard
machines
vending
name
in the system's busiest stations; look for the
optional audio button
steps to purchase farecards,
lets
you hear
much of the conRision and is a real boon to visually impaired riders. The machines let you buy up to $200 worth of farecards with denomination of $45. You can
also purchase the
ends and holidays
(a
very good deal that
take advantage of). Currently,
all
VISA, Discover, and MasterCard. Note: Most
pass,
day on week-
we recommend most
you can charge your
a top
$6.50 one-day
weekdays and
valid for unlimited rides after 9:30 a.m.
a
which removes
visitors
farecard purchases to
users will
want
to press
button two, for a single farecard, to begin the card purchase process.
Entering the Station
With your
farecard firmly in hand,
you
are
now
authorized to enter the
Hold the card in your right hand with the brown magnetic stripe facing up and on the right. Walk up to one of the waist-high faregates with the green light and white arrow near the kiosk (not the faregates that read "Do Not Enter" they are for passengers exiting the Metro
station.
—
station)
and
insert
your card into the
slot,
where
it is
slurped into the
bowels of the Metro. As the gate opens, walk through and grab your card as
it is
regurgitated from the slot at the top of the gate. All this happens
in less than a second. Place the farecard in a safe place; if you lose
must pay the maximum
fare
when you
it,
you
exit.
Finding the Train Platform
Once
you're past the faregate, look for signs with arrows
your intended your train
line's
will arrive.
end
At an underground
station,
escalator or stairs to the train platform; at an will
and the name of
station that point toward the platform
you
will
where
descend on an
above-ground
station,
you
ascend to the platform. You can reconfirm that you're on the correct
side of the platform
by reading the
list
of stations printed on the pylon
located there and finding your destination. If your destination you're
on the
right track; departing trains
go
in
in the red-tiled area to wait for the next train.
one direction
is
listed,
only.
Stand
When
entering or exiting, insert the farecard (face up with the mag-
netic strip
The
on the
right) into
the slot on the front of the faregate (top).
farecard reappears at the top of the faregate (bottom);
and the faregate opens.
On
remove
it
faregates for disabled people, the farecard
reappears at the front of the gate.
Note: Remember to hang on to the
farecard
—you need
it
to exit the
system. 127
128
Part Five
Getting around Washington
Boarding the Train As
embedded
a train approaches a station, lights
As the
granite edge of the platform begin flashing.
in the floor along the train
comes out of the
tunnel, look for a sign over the front windshield that states the train's des-
and
tination
line (blue, red, green, orange, or yellow).
but not the color,
make If
is
shown on
also
sure the approaching train
it's
is
The
destination,
the side of the train. Double-check to the one
you want.
the right train, approach the doors, but stand clear to
ing passengers exit the train.
Then move
let
depart-
smartly; the train stops for only
a few seconds, then chimes will indicate that the doors are about to close.
rushing to catch a train and hear the chimes, don't attempt to
If you're
pop open
board. Unlike elevator doors, the train doors won't
on them
—and they
exert a lot of pressure.
Wait
Inside, take a seat or, if you're a first- time
map
The
located near the doors.
Metro
user,
have
trains all
if you lean
for the next train.
study the system
real operators
who
PA
system and give information for
transferring to other lines (sometimes
you can even hear them over the
announce the next din).
It's
station over a
better to study the
ernous station walls
at
map and
read the signs
mounted on
the cav-
each stop.
Exiting the Station
As the
train enters
your
station,
them.
Some
stations have
the doors. When you step on the platform and walk toward
move toward
off the train, look for stairs or escalators
two or more
exits,
but the signs on the walls of
the stations aren't always clear about where each exit goes. If
which tourists
you know
you want
(for
example, at the Smithsonian station most
want the Mall
exit,
not Independence Avenue), look for that sign
exit
and follow the arrow. At the top of the
escalator or stairs,
get your farecard ready,
the
Metro system (card
right, insert in slot). If
walk toward the mezzanine
and repeat the same procedure you used in right hand, magnetic stripe
you bought exact
fare,
area,
to enter
up and on the
you won't get your card
back, but the gate will open and a little sign will flash "Exact Fare." You're on your way. If your farecard still has money left on it, it pops up as the gate opens and the sign flashes "Take Farecard." Do same; exit station. If
your farecard doesn't have enough value to cover your
won't open and the card will pop back out. "Exitfare" are lined
machine somewhere
up behind you when
just
this
You need
trip,
to take
the gate it
to
an
behind you. (Invariably ten people
happens, creating the equivalent of a
minor Beltway backup.) The reddish-colored
Exitfare
their brothers, the farecard machines. Insert
your card and immediately
the digital readout displays the exact
can exit the station. (Don't make
my
machines look
like
amount of moolah it needs so you The machine asked for 40
mistake:
Riding the Metro: A Really
and
cents
stuck a $5
I
bill
into
it. I
coins; the farecard reappears; grab
swallows
it
and
sets
you
Good
Idea
129
got $4.60 in change back.) Plug in the insert
it;
same
into the faregate,
which
free.
Changing from One Line to Another Sooner or
Metro
later
—probably sooner—you
line to another.
where the
stations,
Metro Center
red, orange,
and
(red, yellow,
need to transfer from one
will
the Big Enchilada of the transfer
and blue
lines
converge in
downtown
tourists are likely to hit are Gallery
Washington. Other transfer stations
Place-Chinatown
is
L' Enfant
green);
Plaza (yellow, blue,
orange, green); Rosslyn (orange and blue); and Pentagon (yellow and blue).
To
you
transfer,
don't use your farecard. Simply exit your train, take
the escalator to the correct platform,
and reboard. Try
system as your train enters the station:
The
to listen to the
where the
driver recites
PA dif-
ferent lines are located in the approaching station (for example, "Transfer to the red line tions,
on the lower
level"). If
you
can't
hear the driver's instruc-
look for the color-coded pylons with arrows that point toward the
platforms, and look for the one with your destination listed
The
Gallery Place-Chinatown station
quently, you're routed
down and up
is
escalators to reach
Keep your eyes up for signs overhead that as "Red Line-Wheaton Straight Ahead."
Metro Foibles and
on
it.
especially complicated. Fre-
your platform. messages such
state reassuring
How to Cope
Boarding the WrongTrain Unless you're concerned about being ten minutes or so
meeting with the president, boarding a tion
isn't
form
is
a big problem.
train
late for
Simply get off at the next
station,
and
if
the plat-
located between the tracks, go to the other side of the platform to
wait for the next train running in the opposite direction, and board
both or
your
going in the wrong direc-
sets
of tracks run
and
stairs
down
it.
If
the center of the station, take the escalator
cross the tracks to the other side,
where you can catch the
next train going the other way. If
you
train to
realize you've
boarded the wrong
color train (say, the
orange
Dorn
Street),
Vienna, Virginia, instead of the blue train to Van
just get off at the next station, stay
on the same platform, and take the
next blue line train.
What
to
Do
with Farecards Worth SO Cents
After a few days in Washington, you that don't have
enough value
may
for even a
start
one-way
accumulating farecards trip.
Don't throw them
away! Instead, next time you're using the Metro go up to a farecard vending machine in the mezzanine
and
insert the old farecard into the slot
on
When it
in
the value of a farecard drops below $
for a
new one
at a farecard
machine
I
,
trade
(top).
Emergency intercoms (bottom) are located on
all
station platforms.
<
i
130
1
Riding the Metro: A Really the right side of the machine where
on the
value will be displayed
money
at Step
1
readout at Step
new
white "Push for Farecard" button to get a value If,
on your old
Idea
1
Used Farecard."
2.
3
Its
Feed the machine
and "minus" buttons, and
futz with the "plus"
,
says "Trade In
it
digital
Good
press the
card that includes the
card.
Like Joe, You're Color Blind sank the
Joe's heart
first
time he tried to figure out Washington's Metro
system: Like a few other men, he
is
afflicted
with red-green color blind-
To his eyes, the Metro's red and green lines look nearly identical in color, and the orange line looks a lot redder than it ought to. The only lines on the system map he could distinguish by color were the blue and ness.
yellow ones.
on the names of the stations at the ends of the That way, the red line becomes the "Wheaton/Shady Grove" line,
The lines.
solution
is
to fixate
while the green line at first,
the
is
"U
Street-Cardozo/Anacostia"
line.
It's
blindly follow colored signs:
make
you've got to
Knowing
end station is on whether or not
helpful
a line's
a split-second decision
to
train that's almost ready to depart the station. For instance, if
the
harder
but you'll end up with a distinct advantage over those
Dupont
Circle
board the red sooner or
Metro and want
line train
later, you'll
to
who when
board a
you enter
go to Union Station, you need to
heading toward Wheaton
end
get familiar with the
— not Shady Grove.
So,
stations anyway.
Discounts and Special Deals
Up
Children
to
two children under age
can ride free
five
when accom-
panied by a paying passenger.
Senior Citizens and People with Disabilities able for qualified senior citizens; call tion. People
reduced
with
fares.
disabilities
A new service
can
call
called
Reduced
fares are avail-
(202) 637-7000 for more informa(202) 962-1245 for information on
"Metro Mobility Link" supplies peoMetro stations,
ple with disabilities with specialized information about
including general features of each station, the location of Braille signs,
whether the station has accessible features.
The Metro
is
a center or side platform,
The number
is
and other disabled-
(202) 962-6464.
a tourist attraction in
its
own
right, featuring the
Western
Hemisphere's longest escalator: the 230-foot, mezzanine-to-platform-level
behemoth
at the
Wheaton Metro in suburban Maryland. If that's a little Dupont Circle Metro's escalator is nearly as long. If
out of the way, the escalators terrify
you or you
with elevators. But
it's
a
are wheelchair-bound,
good idea
to
check
that the elevator at your destination station vator,
all
stations are
at a station kiosk is
in operation.
To
equipped
and confirm find the ele-
look for the wheelchair symbol near the station entrance.
132
Getting around Washington
Part Five
Fare Discounts twice a day,
If
you plan on using the Metro more than once or
Metrorail at (202) 637-7000 to find out what discounts
call
are in effect during
your
9:30 a.m.
tions in
midnight
A
for
Metrorail
farecard of
One-Day
$6.50 weekdays, and
$20 or more you
Pass lets
all
gar-
from
ride
day on weekends and
way to go if you plan to ride the subway to several locaone day. Commuters can save money by purchasing passes that
holidays;
let
till
A high-value
visit.
ners a 10 percent bonus,
them
the
it's
ride anywhere, anytime, for
available at the
Metro Center
two weeks. Discount
passes are
and from the new talking
sales office
fare-
card machines installed in busier Metro Stations. Discount passes are also sold at
many
Safeway, Giant, and SuperFresh grocery stores.
Free Information
For a
information kit that includes a Metro
free visitor
system map, specific information on getting to Smithsonian
on
other attractions, and information call this
number: (202) 637-7000. The computer
the-minute Metro information on the Internet
at
museums and
Metro
driving to suburban
stations,
can get up-to-
literate
www.wniata.coin. You
can also purchase tickets in $10, $15, and $20 increments.
A Note about Metrobus known
Washington's extensive bus system,
Metrobus, serves George-
as
town, downtown, and the suburbs. Racks recently installed on metro
new Bike-on-Bus program
buses as part of the
There
flexibility.
is
no additional charge
commuter
further increase
for passengers with bicycles.
However, with 400 routes and more than 1,500 buses, Metrobus extremely complicated system to figure out feel that visitors to
and
stick to the
Washington should
leave
how
to use.
Metrobus
As
to the
an
is
a result,
we
commuters
Metro. For the few places that the Metro doesn't reach
notably Georgetown and
Adams-Morgan
—we recommend
taking a cab.
Bus Transfers If,
despite our advice,
in
D.C. or
you plan
to transfer
from the Metro
Virginia, get a free transfer before
from the machine located next to the escalator station that
you entered. You
White
Flint,
ify for
reduced parking
Twinbrook, and fees
also
to a
Metrobus
you board the Metro in the
need to pick up a bus transfer
New Carrollton
on weekdays; look
train
mezzanine of the at the
suburban stations to qualfor signs in the station.
Taxis Washington
taxis are plentiful
and
relatively cheap. They're also strange.
Instead of a metered fare system, fares are figured city into 5 zones
map and
and 27 subzones; the base
fare chart are
posted in
all
on
fare for
legal cabs
a
map
one zone
that splits the is
$5.
A zone
but probably won't
mean
People with Special Needs
much
to first-time visitors
—
or most residents, for that matter. If you're
concerned about getting ripped
request a receipt before
off,
That way the driver knows
ride.
133
you
start the
got no defense in an overcharging
he's
claim.
The
cab system has other quirks. Drivers can pick up other fares as
long as the original passenger
way
third rider
and
and trying
to catch a train.
it's
raining;
it's
are, stick to the
gal yet
still
good news
not so hot
you're the second or
if
you're the original passenger
if
the possibility of a ride in a poorly maintained cab or one
To eliminate
who
as
you
major cab companies. Some of the independents are
ille-
driven by a recent immigrant
cab.
taken more than five blocks out of the
isn't
of the original destination. That's
carr}'
One way to
is
as unfamiliar
and roof
the markings
spot a fly-by-night taxi
aren't any, pass that
one
light
is
to
with the city
of a seemingly legitimate
check for hubcaps.
If there
by.
Major D.C.TaxI Companies Capitol
(202) 546-2400
Diamond
(202) 387-6200
Cab
(703) 522-2222
Yellow
People with Special Needs Washington disabilities.
is
one of the most
With
employer in the
accessible cities in the
area,
Washington provides
abled people. As a result, the service sector sellers, retail clerks,
more attuned
cities. It
that lobby for handicapped
with
—
for dis-
bus drivers, waiters, ticket
disabilities
doesn't hurt that a
—
are
somewhat
than service-sector
number of organizations
people are headquartered in
Washington.
Metro, for example, was designed to meet federal standards for
accessibility.
to
for folks
good job market
a
cab drivers, tour guides, and so on
to the needs of people with
employees in other
The
world
the equal-opportunity federal government as the major
As
a result, the stations
a wide array of people with
and
trains provide
optimal services
special requirements. Elevators provide
access to the mezzanine, or ticketing areas platform,
and
street level; call
the Metro's 24-hour elevator hot line at (202) 962-1825 to check elevators at the stations
The edge of the
you plan
if
the
to use are operating.
train platform
is
built with a
gray, granite strip that's different in texture
1
4-inch, smooth, light
from the
rest
of the
station's
flooring so that visually impaired passengers can detect the platform
edge with a foot or cane. Flashing lights embedded in the granite alert
hearing-impaired passengers that a train
Handicapped-only parking spaces
is
strip
entering the station.
are placed close to station entrances.
134
Getting around Washington
Part Five
While purchasing tion
a farecard
a strictly visual process (unless the sta-
is
equipped with the talking vending machines), visually impaired
is
passengers can go to the nearby kiosk for assistance. Priority seating for senior citizens and passengers with disabilities in
is
located next to doors
all cars.
who
Visitors with disabilities
the
ID
NW,
good
is
for a
1245
more information.
for
the nearest station
Metro's
month.
rail
Go
to 4:30 p.m.
from 8 a.m.
is
possess a transit
ID
can pick up a courtesy Metro
If
their
home
city
to
Metro Headquarters, 600 one up;
weekdays
to pick
you want
to ride the
Fifth Street,
call
Metro
(202) 962-
to get there,
Gallery Place. For a free guide with information on
and bus system
for the elderly
(202) 637-1328. "Metro Mobility Link" disabilities. Call
ID from
that provides substantial fare discounts;
and physically
disabled, call
a help line for people with
is
(202) 962-6464 for basic as well as
more
specialized
information on Metro stations.
The Smithsonian and lion's
the National Park Service, agencies that run the
share of popular sights in Washington, offer top-notch services to
folks
with
disabilities.
Designated handicapped parking spaces are
located along Jefferson Drive
on the Mall. Museums
are
entrance ramps, barrier-free exhibits, elevator service to
equipped with
and
all floors,
can rooms and water fountains. Visually impaired of drawings raised-line pick up large-print brochures, audio tours, and and National Air museum artifacts at many Smithsonian museums. The visitors
accessible rest
Space
Museum
facts; call
touch models and
offers special tours that let visitors
(202) 357-2700 for information.
Hearing-impaired
visitors to the
National Air and Space
Museum
arrange tours with an interpreter by calling (202) 357-2700. Public
phones
room
in the
is
Guide
arti-
museum
are
can
tele-
equipped with amplification, and the briefing
equipped with audio loop. For a copy of the Smithsonian's "A
for Disabled Visitors," call (202)
357-2700 or (202) 357-1729
(TDD). The Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials and the Washington Monument are equipped to accommodate disabled visitors. Most sight-seeing attractions have elevators for seniors
climbing.
The
and others who want
to avoid a lot
of stair
White House, for example, has a special entrance on
Pennsylvania Avenue for visitors arriving in wheelchairs, and White
House guides
usually allow visually handicapped visitors to touch
of the items described on
Tourmobile scooter
lift
offers
a special van
for disabled visitors.
tour; in fact, visitors
equipped with a wheelchair and
The van
the regular
visits all
can usually specify what
sites
same
price as the standard
Tourmobile
rate,
sites
on the
they want to see in any
order and the van will wait until they are finished touring. the
some
tours.
$20
The
for adults
service
is
and $10
People with Special Needs for children. Call (202)
554-7020
van. Information available at In spite of
all
is still
day
in
advance
the services available to disabled visitors,
and
to reserve a
www.tourmobile.com.
idea to call ahead to any facility ices are in place
at least a
135
you plan
to visit
it's still
and confirm
that the particular exhibit or gallery
a
good
that serv-
you wish
to see
available.
Foreign visitors to Washington
who would
their native language can contact the
"The Guide
Service of Washington"
like a
tour conducted in
Guide Service of Washington. See
on page 159.
Part Six
Sight-seeing Tips
and Tours
Home
Plan before You Leave There
are several
good reasons why you should take the time
planning before coming to Washington to tour
Washington
its
to
do some
sights. First
of
a big, sprawling city that covers a lot of real estate.
is
National Mall, for example,
two miles long
is
—and
there's
all,
The
more
to
Washington beyond that long expanse of green. Spending a poorly planned day traipsing back and forth from
monument
federal building to
can waste a
monument
lot
to
museum
to
of time, energy, and shoe
leather.
But must:
not only Washington's physical
it's
It's
Even
able.
if
hard choices about
your that
visit
is
how many
shorter, say
you have
much
size that
makes planning
a
number of tourist attractions that are availyour vacation is a week long, be prepared to make some
the mind-boggling
sights
you can
only two or three days,
a firm idea of what
during your allotted time
monuments and
you want
is
fit it's
to see.
into your itinerary. If
even more imperative
Attempting to see too
exhausting: Your visit becomes a blur
As with most large-scale projects, making your trip more pleasurable. Our recommendation is to do some soul-searching and try to reach some decisions about what your interests are before you leave for Washington. Are you curious about how the government spends all your tax
of marble a
little
big rooms.
research can go a long
way
money? Have you always wanted coln in his marble memorial?
in
to gaze
Do you
up
at the
solemn
love antiques?
figure of Lin-
Are you a military
Does technolog)^ fascinate you? Do you love exploring art museums? Gardens? Historical houses? Washington offers places to explore for people with all these interests. Yet neither this guide nor any other can
buff?
tell
you what your
Some more
interests are.
You
gotta
do your homework.
To help winnow your choices, get as much written you can before you leave and read it. To supplement
advice:
information as
—
137
138
this
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
you can
guide,
cies,
Washington tourist pubhc Hbrary and travel agen-
get information concerning
and recreation
attractions, hotels,
at the
or by calling or writing any of the profiled attractions.
Web ington
surfers
and the computer
now has
its
own Web
literate will
by location and
hotels that's searchable
a
site. It offers
be glad to
know
that
Wash-
comprehensive guide to D.C.
by
price, restaurants searchable
neighborhood, tour information, and a quarterly calendar of special events
and
festivals.
Thinking Visitors to
they
visit
The
Internet address
is
www.dcvisit.com.
Categories
in
Washington
are often
famous and popular
thrown into such
edifices
large groups
as the
of tourists
as
Washington Monu-
ment, the U.S. Capitol, and the White House. Unless you've made prior
VIP
arrangements for a you'll
tour or Uncle Milt
is
a congressional staffer,
dome with 49 other Our advice: Go with the
be craning your neck under the Capitol
you
tourists as
listen to
your tour guide's
and enjoy the
jflow, relax,
tour.
spiel.
in
Wash-
major
tourist
But not everything you do while
ington has to turn into a group traipse. Question:
How do you avoid the big crowds
that clog the
attractions?
Answer: By organizing your
By charting your own
visit
course,
around things that
places that offer higher quality tours than the in the better
known
attractions. Often,
with small groups of people
more fun. By following your own coveries as
A
you
visit
who
interest you.
you get off the beaten track and you find yourself visiting
share your interests. In short,
interests,
visit
canned presentations given places
you have
you can make some intriguing
dis-
Washington:
collection of miniature Revolutionary soldiers fighting a
mock
battle
(Anderson
House).
A four-sided, colonial-era American Revolution
A tropical
mousetrap that
guillotines rodents
(Daughters of the
building).
rain forest located just off the Mall (Organization of American States
building).
A
space capsule you can climb into (Navy Museum).
Faberge eggs encrusted with diamonds (Hillwood Museum).
The tomb
A garden
of the only president buried
filled
with flowers mentioned
Washington (National Cathedral).
in
in
the plays of William Shakespeare (the
Folger Shakespeare Library).
A
pub that shows how
As you
many
travel
typical colonial-era
around Washington,
others that
most
Americans
lived
(Gadsby's Tavern).
you'll discover sights like these
visitors miss.
and
To help you on your way, we've
Plan before You Leave
selected
major categories and
explore.
As you read the
139
listed the best destinations for visitors to
keep in mind that
list,
Home
many
attractions overlap.
Museum appeals to both techthe Woodrow Wilson House is interest-
For example, the National Air and Space
nology and military buffs, while
ing to history fans, lovers of the decorative
how
the high
and mighty conducted
arts,
and
folks curious
about
their day-to-day lives in the 1920s.
African-American African-American
Civil
War
Memorial
Frederick Douglass
(Cedar
Museum
Anacostia
House
Hill)
Bethune Museum and Archives
Lincoln Memorial
Black Revolutionary War Patriots
National
Museum
of African Art
National
Museum
of American Art
Memorial
Architecture
Museum
Constitution Hall
National Building
Daughters of the American Revolution
National Gallery of Art (East Building)
Museum Hirshhorn
Museum
National Postal
Museum
Old Post Office
Pavilion
House of the Temple
Ronald Reagan Building
Kennedy Center
U.S. Capitol
Library of Congress (Jefferson
U.S.
Building)
Supreme Court
Union Station
Meridian International Center
Washington National Cathedral
National Archives
Washington Monument
Art Museums Art Museum of the Americas
(at
the
Organization of American States)
National Gallery of Art National
Museum
in
the Arts
National
Museum ofWomen
Dumbarton Oaks National
Portrait
Phillips
Corcoran Gallery of Art
Gallery
of African Art
Collection
Renwick Gallery
Freer Gallery of Art
Hirshhorn
Museum and
Sackler Gallery
Sculpture
Garden
Children Bureau of Engraving and Printing National
National
Museum
National Postal
Federal Bureau of Investigation
National Air and Space
Museum
of Natural History
Museum
National Wildlife Visitor Center
National Zoological Park
National Aquarium
Old Post Office
National Geographic Society's
Washington Monument
Explorers Hall National
Museum
Pavilion
Washington Navy Yard of American History
140
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
Decorative Arts and Antiques Anderson House
Mount Vernon
Christian Heurich Mansion
The Octagon
Daughters of the American Revolution
Museum and
Period
Rooms
Old Town Alexandria Textile
Museum
Decatur House
Tudor Place
Dumbarton Oaks
U.S.
Museum
Hillwood
Department of
State
Diplomatic Reception
Rooms
Gardens Bishops Garden at Washington National Cathedral
Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens Meridian International Center
Constitution Gardens
Mount Vernon
Dumbarton Oaks
National
Enid A.
Haupt Garden (behind the
Castle on the Mall)
Arboretum
National Gallery of Art Sculpture
Garden
Folger Shakespeare Library
Tudor Place
Franciscan Monastery
U.S. Botanic
Garden
Museum
Hillwood
Government Bureau of Engraving and Printing
U.S.
Department of the Treasury
Federal Bureau of Investigation
U.S.
Supreme Court
Ronald Reagan Building
Voice of America
U.S. Capitol
Great Views Arlington
House
(Arlington National
Cemetery)
Mount Vernon Old Post Office
Pavilion
Iwo jima Memorial
Washington Monument
Kennedy Center
Washington National Cathedral
Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials
Great Places to Walk When YouVe Sick of Museums Cathedral Avenue between Connecticut Avenue and Washington
National Cathedral
Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens
anywhere along Connecticut Avenue the bike path along the Potomac from the Kennedy Center to
Dupont
Circle
Embassy
Row
Fort McNair and the Southwest
Georgetown
The
Mall
National
Arboretum
National
Zoo
Georgetown
(Massachusetts Avenue
northwest of Dupont Circle)
I
Plan before You Leave
Home
141
Historical Buildings and Sites
House
Mount Vernon
Chesapeake & Ohio Canal
The Octagon
Decatur House
Old Stone House
Arlington
Old Town Alexandria
Ford's Theatre
Frederick Douglass
House
U.S. Capitol
Woodrow Wilson House
Georgetown
History Anacostia
Museum
National Air and Space
Arlington
House
National Archives
Bethune Museum and Archives
National Cryptologic
Chesapeake & Ohio Canal
National
City
Museum
National
of the American
National Portrait Gallery
Georgetown
Museum
Museum
Indian
Folger Shakespeare Library
Lincoln
Museum
of American
History
of Washington
Decatur House
International Spy
Museum
Museum
Old Town Alexandria
Museum Ford's Theatre)
(in
U.S.
Holocaust Memorial
Museum
Mount Vernon
Military
Anderson House
National Cryptologic
Cemetery
Arlington National
Smithsonian's
Black Revolutionary War Patriots
U.S.
Memorial
Museum
Udvar-Hazy Center*
Navy Memorial
Vietnam Veterans Memorial
Iwo Jima Memorial
Washington Navy Yard
National Air and Space
Museum
*A National Air and Space
Museum
Women
in
Vietnam Memorial
diat houses aircraft fronn botJi
World Wars, located at
Washington Dulles International Airport
Monuments and Memorials African-American Arlington
Civil
War
Memorial
Cemetery
Black Revolutionary War Patriots
Memorial Franklin
Delano Roosevelt Memorial
Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials
National Law Enforcement Officers Memorial
National World War
II
Memorial
Navy Memorial Holocaust Memorial
George Mason Memorial
U.S.
Iwo Jima Memorial
Vietnam Veterans Memorial
Kennedy Center
Washington Monument Museum
Korean War Veterans Memorial
Women
in
Vietnam Memorial
42
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
Outdoors Potomac Park
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal Great
Falls
Rock Creek Park
Park
Roosevelt Island
Mount Vernon Trail National Wildlife Visitor Center
Places of Worship Adas
Israel
Pope John
Synagogue at the
and Albert Small Jewish
Lillian
St.
Museum
Paul
II
Cultural Center
Church (across
John's Episcopal
from the White House)
Franciscan Monastery
Washington National Cathedral
Center
Islamic
National Shrine of the Immaculate
Conception
Technology National Cryptologic
Arts and Industry Building
Goddard Space
Flight
International Spy
Koshland Science
Center
Museum
National Building
Museum
of American History
National
Museum
of Health and
Medicine
Museum
National Air and Space
Museum
National
Museum
National Postal
Museum
Washington Navy Yard
Museum
Putting Your Congressperson to Work
A
letter to a representative or senator well in
months
is
advance of your
trip (six
not too early) can bring a cornucopia of free goodies your way:
reservations
on VIP
Supreme Court, the FBI, and the Bureau
tours of the
of Engraving and Printing that can save you hours of time waiting in line, as well as getting
tion,
you on
more informative
longer,
tours. In addi-
your eager-to-please congressperson (he or she wants your vote) can
provide timely information about hotels, restaurants, shopping, and special events. It's all free. Just
Here's
why you must
be sure to include the exact dates of your
send off your
that you'll be in Washington: Senators in the
Since
number of spaces on VIP all
the legislators get the
soon
letter as
as
visit.
you know the dates
and House members
are limited
tours they can provide to constituents.
same number of
passes, reason dictates
from Washington, D.C., the better chance you have of getting on a coveted VIP tour. For example, Mary-
that the farther
away your
state
is
land legislators, some of whose constituents can
Metro
to reach D.C., are often
for the
popular White House
VIP
and
six
tours.
But
if
Dakota, chances are your congressperson tions during your visit.
literally
five
booked
will
jump on
the
months in advance you're from South
be able to get you reserva-
I
Plan before You Leave
There
is
a
downside
early, usually
to the
VIP
tours:
Some of them
Home
143
take place very
before the regular, nonreserved tours begin. For example,
Bureau of Engraving and Printing VIP tours depart through Friday. The upside:
If you're
at 8
a.m.
Monday
touring in the spring and summer,
you've already resigned yourself to early starts to beat the worst of the
crowds anyway. Another myth shattered: The VIP tours ing in
line.
But the tours
require wait-
still
are longer and, unlike the unreserved version,
guided.
How do you reserve a VIP tour? Write a letter to your senator or reprehome
sentative at his or her tors, the
office or the
Washington address
is
For House members, address your tatives,
you'll
one
in
Washington. For sena-
D.C. 20510.
U.S. Senate, Washington, letter to the
U.S. House of Represen-
Washington, D.C. 20515. Again, don't forget to include the dates
be visiting Washington.
A Sample
Letter 25 October 2005
The Honorable
[your congressperson or senator's name]
House of Representatives (or U.S. Senate) Washington, D.C. 20515 (or 20510 for the Senate) U.S.
Dear Mr. or Ms. [your
During the week of visiting Hill,
VIP
Washington
and downtown.
congressperson or senator's name],
[fill
in
your vacation
to tour the I
date]
my family
and
I
will
be
major attractions on the Mall, Capitol
understand your office can make reservations on
tours for constituents.
Specifically,
I
would
like tours for the
White House,
Engraving and Printing, and the FBI during that week.
the Bureau of I'll
need four
possible, please schedule
our tours in
In addition, I'd appreciate any other touring information
on Washing-
reservations for each tour. If at
all
the middle of our week.
ton you can send me. Thanks in advance for your help.
Yours [
truly,
Your name]
Operating Hours By and large, Washington's major attractions keep liberal operating hours, making it easy for visitors to plan their itineraries without worrying about odd opening and closing times. There are, however, a few exceptions.
Of all
the major tourist attractions, the Bureau of Engraving
and Printing keeps the weirdest hours: closed open seven days a week.
in the afternoon
and not
144
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
Smithsonian museums are open every day from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
During the summer, hours may be extended into the evening if operating budgets allow. The Bureau of Engraving and Printing allows visitors to view its money-printing operation Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. and again from
to 2 p.m.
ticket system
is
5
Most monuments, on recommendation
is
summer
(a free
time-
and summer). a day.
Our
and Jefferson Memorials
after
open 24 hours
the other hand, are
to visit the Lincoln
up by floodlights, the marble edifices appear to float in the and the Reflecting Pool and Tidal Basin dramatically reflect the much more impressive than by day and a lot less crowded.
dark. Lit
darkness, light.
p.m. to 7:30 p.m. in the
in effect in the spring
—
It's
The Washington Monument now
has a time-ticket system that elimi-
nates long lines.
While many close
on
third
Monday
open every
sights are
federal holidays: January
day, a lot
1,
of Washington attractions
Martin Luther King
in January), Presidents' Day,
Jr.
Day
(the
Memorial Day, Indepen-
Day (the first Monday in September), Columbus Day Monday in October), Veterans Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas Day (when virtually everything except outdoor monuments and Mount Vernon is closed).
dence Day, Labor (the second
Rhythms of the City Although
impossible to be specific, the ebb and flow of crowds
it's
fol-
lows a pattern throughout the day and the week at major tourist attrac-
By being aware of the
tions.
general patterns,
the worst of the crowds, traffic congestion,
Mornings sights
is
are slow,
when
you can sometimes avoid
and long
and the quietest time
to visit
lines.
most museums and
they open. As lunchtime approaches, the
number of peo-
ple visiting a popular attraction begins to pick up, peaking
Then
around 3 p.m.
the crowds begin to thin, and after 4 p.m. things start to get quiet
again.
It
follows that the best times to visit a wildly popular place like the
National Air and Space closes. Conversely,
ural History during the
with a
visit to
African Art.
Among
Museum
when
just after
it
opens and
jamming
the
just before
Museum
it
of Nat-
middle of the day, expand your cultural horizons
the Sackler
They are
is
the crowds are
and Freer
rarely, if ever,
Galleries, or the National
Museum of
crowded.
Wednesday see the Monument, the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, the National Air and Space Museum, the National Museum of American History, and the National Museum
lowest
days of the week, Monday, Tuesday, and
number of visitors.
If
you
visit
the Washington
of Natural History, try to do so early in the week. Attempt to structure
your week so that Thursday, Friday, and the weekend sights that are
away from the Mall.
are spent visiting
1
Home
Plan before You Leave
145
IfYouVisii During Peak Tourist Season The key
to missing the worst
get a hotel close to a
what
is
An
Metro
most important
of the crowds
in spring
station, park the car,
for
you
to see,
and
and
and summer
leave
Then
it.
is
to
decide
get to those places early.
example: You've miraculously secured a convenient D.C. hotel
room
From your in-town window, Washington
in early April.
before you
—and
for
most of the
day,
is
laid
a view of gridlocked
it's
coaches, school buses, families in cars, angry commuters, and
out
motor
jammed
drawn by the Japanese cherr)^ trees in bloom along the Tidal Basin and the Reflecting Pool on the Mall. But don't rush out the door and join the throngs on their way to see
sidewalks. Everyone but the
the trees. Because
you want station
it's
early (say,
to see before the
and take the
10-minute
stroll to
the
By 9
is
7 a.m.), your plan
crowds
arrive.
is
So walk
Smithsonian
train to the
to hit the sights that to the nearby
station.
From
—and
Washington Monument
near the front of the line opens.
commuters
when
Metro
there,
it's
a
at 7:30, you're
the kiosk that distributes time tickets
a.m., you're out of the marble obelisk
and on your way
nearby Bureau of Engraving and Printing. At the ticket
office
to the
on Raoul
Wallenberg Place, pick up a time ticket for a tour of the money-printing facilit}^
that begins at 1:30 p.m.
From
son Memorial and those famous
At 10 a.m, you Space
Museum
stroll
as
a.m., you're back
museum
it
there,
it's
walk
to the Jeffer-
toward the Mall for a visit to the National Air and
opens. At 10:15, you join a
on your own again
guided tour. At 1 some corners of the
free,
to explore
that interest you.
By noon, and Space
the crowds are starting to
fill
the
museum,
so
you
leave Air
in search of a bite to eat. If it's a weekday, L'Enfant Plaza, only
one subway stop away from the Smithsonian eateries.
a short
trees.
Then
it's
station, has a
wide array of
an easy walk to the Bureau of Engraving and Printing
to see the stacks of money.
By 2
p.m.,
you have already
attractions during
visited three
of the world's most popular
peak season with almost no waiting in
line.
Now you
can spend the afternoon exploring a wide range of attractions that never
when Washington is besieged by tourists in the spring: Museum, the Vietnam Veterans MemoCorcoran Gallery, or the DAR Museum, just to name a few.
get crowded, even
the Freer Gallery, the Hirshhorn rial,
the
Intragroup Touring Incompatibility:
What The
It Is
and
How to Avoid
It
incidence of "Intragroup Touring Incompatibility" (members of the
same group having strongly conflicting high in Washington, thanks to the
city's
interests or touring objectives)
wide
is
variety of touring attractions.
146
An
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
example:
Some
people would be happy never to leave the National Air
and Space Museum; a
lot
staring at old airplanes
and
of other folks find that spacecraft,
it's
after
an hour or two of
time to move on.
Children, at the other extreme, haven't the patience or inclination for the reading required by the exhibits
all
hours of touring D.C. museums. In
and
fact,
out after a couple of
fizzle
even grown-ups should con-
sider a touring plan that puts reading-intensive attractions such as self-
museum
guided
in the afternoon,
and take guided tours
tours at the beginning of the day,
where you're spoon-fed information by
a guide
and you
can put your brain on autopilot.
A
touring plan
made up
before your arrival in Washington can help
your group avoid the worst manifestations of intragroup incompatibility. your group contains, for example,
If
linger at the National Air
on
to another Mall attraction.
where you can
all
a real
"Rocket George,"
and Space Museum while the
rest
Arrange a meeting place
let
him
of you move
later in the
day
regroup; both you and Rocket George will be happier.
Washington with Children Most adult visitors to Washington experience a rush of thrill and pride on viewing the U.S. Capitol, the Washington Monument, and the White House. And, for most of repeat visits
begins
on
us, those are feelings that
hold up well over
to the nation's capital. In fact, a fascination for the city often
a first visit to
Washington
in grade or high school
and can con-
tinue through adulthood.
The Ten Most Popular
Sights for Children
Museum
National Air and Space
1.
2.
National Zoological Park
Museum
3.
International Spy
4.
National
5.
Bureau of Engraving and Printing
6.
Federal Bureau of Investigation
7.
National
8.
National Geographic Society's Explorers Hall
9.
Washington Navy Yard
Museum
Museum
of American History
Washington Monument
10.
So
it
follows that
and stimulating else
of Natural History
one of the most
interesting, beautiful,
the world for children and
young people. Where
Washington
cities in
is
can kids see the president's house, touch a
tula,
and view
Luckily, lot to
a city
most popular Washington
hold an
moon
rock, feed a taran-
from the top of a 555-foot marble obelisk?
adult's attention, too
tourist destinations for kids offer a
—which means you
don't have to
worry
Washington with Children
147
about parking the kids someplace while you tour a museum. For example, as
your kids marvel
at the
dinosaur skeletons in the
Museum
History or feed that giant spider, you can be fantasizing over the
mond, Even tion
the
is
on
so,
a
Washington vacation with small
name of the game. Here
are
ton excite children of
all
and while there
ages,
and preschoolers, Washington's
delight toddlers
We
oriented to older kids and adults.
to consider:
of Washing-
thrill
are specific sights that
attractions are generally
believe that children should be a
mature nine years old to get the most out of popular attractions
fairly
such
Dia-
children, anticipa-
you need
things
Although the big buildings, spaciousness, and
Age
and
some
of Natural
Hope
as the
National
a year or
and other
Time
Museum
two older
If there
crowded summer months. Try ber, or
out of the art
monuments,
galleries,
around town.
federal buildings
of Year to Visit
of Natural History and the U.S. Capitol,
much
to get
any way to swing
is
to go in late
it,
avoid the hot,
September through Novem-
mid-April through mid-June. If you have children of varying ages
and your school-age kids
good
are
ones out of school so you can
students, consider taking the older
during the cooler, less-congested
visit
many
season. Arrange special study assignments relating to the tional aspects of Washington. If
your school-age children
can't afford to
miss any school, take your vacation as soon as the school year ends in
May or early June. ton vacation Building offers
as
late
Nothing, repeat, nothing will enhance your Washing-
much
as
avoiding the early spring and
Naps and Rest
more
off-
educa-
Your Itinerary
into
attractions than
you can possibly
summer months.
Washington
is
huge and
see in a week, so don't try to
one day. Tour in the early morning and return to your midday for a swim (if your hotel has a pool; see below) and a nice nap. Even during the fall and winter, when the crowds are smaller and the temperature more pleasant, the sheer size of D.C. will exhaust most children under eight by lunchtime. Go back and visit more attractions in
see everything in
hotel
the late afternoon
and
Where
The time and
to Stay
early evening.
hassle involved in
from downtown Washington and lessened tion.
if you
But even
Washington,
it
is
commuting
surrounding neighborhoods
to
if,
for financial or other reasons,
and
will
can afford to stay inside the District and near a Metro
be
sta-
you lodge outside of
remains imperative that you get small children off of the
Mall for a few hours to
unwind
its
the best
rest
and recuperate. Neglecting
way we know
to relax
and
to get the whole family in a snit and
ruin the day (or the entire vacation).
With
small children, there
Make sure you
is
simply no excuse for not planning ahead.
get a hotel, in or out
of Washington, within a few minutes'
148
Part Six
walk
to a
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Metro
station.
Washington, even
Naps and
from the
relief
frenetic pace
While
in the off-season, are indispensable.
of touring
it's
true that
you can gain some measure of peace by finding a quiet spot near the Tidal Basin to
relax, there
security of your
no
is
own
substitute for returning to the familiarity
hotel. Regardless
children too large to sleep in a stroller will not relax get
them back
Another
A
pool.
Washington
tions,
is
whether or not
of visitors to D.C. assume
necessarily so. lifesaver for
and
revive unless
you
your room.
to
factor in choosing a hotel
lot
and
of what you have heard or read,
both you and your
swimming
has a
most destina-
come with a pool. Alas, it ain't warmer weather, can be a
hotels automatically
A swimming pool,
it
that, like those in
especially in
kids.
So
dip
if a refreshing
important to
is
your family, be sure to ask before making hotel reservations.
Be
in
While we acknowledge
Touch with Your Feelings
that a
Washing-
ton vacation can be a capital investment (pardon the pun), remember that having fun
not necessarily the same
is
you and your children
start getting tired
What would
regroup. Trust your instincts.
Another museum;
room
for a nap?
some
a rest break with
The way
to protect
have a good time, whatever that experiencing every
museum on
irritable, call
now?
cream; going back to the is
You do not have
to stay
happy and
meet
a quota for
to
the Mall, seeing every branch of govern-
ment, walking through every monument, or anything tion;
time out and
really feel best right
ice
your investment
takes.
When
as seeing everything.
and
else. It's
your vaca-
you can do what you want.
Common
Remember the old saying about a The same logic applies to a family touring Washington. Somebody is going to run out of steam first; when they do, the whole family will be affected. Sometimes a cold Coke and a rest break will get the flagging member back into gear. Sometimes, Least
Denominators
chain being only as strong as
its
weakest link?
however, as Marshall Dillon would
Dodge." Pushing the driving
you
on
will
a
say,
"You
tired or discontented
flat tire: It
may
get
you
a
just
beyond
need to get out of their capacity
be sorry in the long run. Accept that energy
individuals
and be prepared
bers of your group
who poop
levels
vary
mem-
out. Hint: "After we've driven a thousand
miles to take you to Washington, you're going to ruin everything!" the right thing to
like
among
respond to small children or other
to
is
few more miles down the road but
is
not
say.
The best way to avoid arguments and game plan before you go. Establish some
Setting Limits and Making Plans
disappointments
is
to develop a
general guidelines for the day and get everybody
Be
sure to include:
committed
in advance.
.
Washington with Children 1
Wake- up time and
2.
What
149
breakfast plans.
time you need to depart for the part of Washington you
plan to explore. 3.
4. 5.
What you need
A A
to take
with you.
policy for splitting the group
plan for what to do
if
up or
for staying together.
someone
the group gets separated or
is
lost.
6.
How
long you intend to tour in the morning and what you want including fall-back plans in the event an attraction
to see,
is
too
crowded. 7.
A
on what you can
policy
afford for snacks, lunch,
and
refresh-
ments. 8.
A target time for returning to your hotel
9.
What
for a rest.
time you will return to touring D.C. and
how
late
you
will
stay.
10.
Plans for dinner.
11.
A policy for shopping and buying souvenirs,
including
who
pays:
Mom and Dad or the kids. Be
Flexible
Having
or sticking rigidly to Alter the plan
if
game plan does not mean forgoing spontaneity the itinerary. Once again, listen to your intuition. a
the situation warrants. Be prepared to roll with the
punches. In the worst of Washington's
Overheating, Sunburn, and Dehydration hot and
humid summers,
the
most
common
problems of smaller
dren are overheating, sunburn, and dehydration.
A
screen carried in a pocket or fanny pack will help against overexposure to the sun. strollers,
even
if
Be
sure to put
you take precautions some on children in
Some of the worst
the stroller has a canopy.
burn we have seen were on the exposed foreheads and infants in strollers.
To avoid
chil-
small bottle of sun-
feet
cases of sun-
of toddlers and
overheating, rest at regular intervals in the
shade or in an air-conditioned museum, hotel lobby, or federal building.
Do
not count on keeping small children properly hydrated with soft
drinks and water fountain stops.
Long
lines often
ments problematic, and water fountains more, excited children thirsty or overheated.
years old Blisters
may
and sore
make buying
plastic
feet are
refresh-
not always handy. What's
not inform you or even
We recommend
and under, and carrying Blisters
are
realize that they're
using a stroller for children six
water bottles.
common
for visitors
of
all
ages, so
wear comfortable, well-broken-in shoes and two pairs of thin socks
ISO
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
(preferable to
one pair of thick
socks). If you or
your children are unusu-
some precut Moleskin bandages; they offer the best possible protection, stick great, and won't sweat off. When you feel a hot spot, stop, air out your foot, and place a Moleskin over the ally susceptible to blisters, carry
area before a blister forms. Moleskin
ing blister until
too
it's
late.
more times
preschoolers two or
it
tell
by name
at all
drug-
about a develop-
their parents
We recommend
inspecting the feet of
a day.
If you
Health and Medical Care
pack plenty, and bring
available
is
Sometimes small children won't
stores.
who
have a child
in a carry-on
bag
requires medication,
if you're flying to
Washington.
A bottle of liquid Dramamine will come in handy to fight off car sickness or motion sickness, which can affect kids
may
but
A
are
normally fine in a car
most pharmacies,
kit, available at
small first-aid
minor
who
get sick in a plane, train, or boat.
and
cuts, scrapes,
splinters
and
children's strength aspirin or Tylenol, a
is
handle most
will
Grown-up and
easy to pack.
thermometer, cough syrup, baby
wipes, a plastic spoon, a night light, and pacifiers will round out a small
of health-related items for people traveling with children or infants.
kit
Be sure possible,
to carry
proof of insurance and policy numbers with you.
check with friends or
to get the
name of a
relatives before
pediatrician
who
you
leave for
practices locally;
of time thumbing through the yellow pages
if a
it
If
Washington
could save a
youngster should
lot
fall ill.
For emergency treatment, dial 911 or go to the emergency room of the nearest hospital.
Major D.C. Hospitals Children's National Medical Center I
I
NW
Michigan Avenue,
I
(202) 884-5000
George Washington University Medical Center 901 23 rd Street,
NW
(202)994-1000
Georgetown University Medical Center 3800 Reservoir Road,
NW
(202) 784-2000
Sunglasses
good idea lost If
If
you want your smaller children
and can hang from the
You Become Separated
down with your rated Tell
to
wear sunglasses,
kids
child's
a
neck while indoors.
Before venturing out of your hotel room,
and discuss what they should do
from you while touring a museum, monument, or
them
it's
to affix a strap or string to the frames so the glasses won't get
to find a
uniformed guard and ask
if
sit
they get sepa-
federal building.
for help. Point out that the
Washington with Children main entrance of most Washington where they should go
We them to
if
attractions has an information desk
they temporarily get separated.
suggest that children under age eight be color-coded by dressing in purple T-shirts or equally distinctive attire.
sew a
It is
also a
hotel.
The same
elegantly by writing the information
good idea
name, your
label into each child's shirt that states his or her
name, and the name of your less
151
thing can be accomplished
on
a strip of
masking
tape:
Hotel security professionals suggest that the information be printed in small letters and that the tape be affixed to the outside of the child's shirt five inches or so
below the armpit.
The Ten Least Popular
Sights for Children
National Gallery of Art-West Building
1.
2.
Library of Congress
3.
U.S.
4.
Pentagon
Supreme Court
5.
Kennedy Center
6.
Dumbarton Oaks mansion and museum
7.
National Portrait Gallery
8.
Folger Shakespeare Library
9.
Textile
Museum
Renwick Gallery
10.
Rainy days and Mondays can get you down
Rainy Days
on vacation galleries are
—and cooped-up
obvious choices during inclement weather
from the crowds), but don't entertained a
movie
at
children suffer even worse.
when
Union
to Alexandria's
boredom
you can
(as
to
cinema complex or take the Metro
Torpedo Factory, where 150 craftsmen work and
—shopping. Union
the Shops at National Place,
ping centers with
Station, the
Old
are
all
indoor shop-
you run out of
clears.
A
The
trip to
—even
best plan
someplace
The National Zoo should top
final tip that
ideas,
section for inspiration.
Of course, some attractions can bore active kids to tears raining outside. An entire afternoon in the National Gallery with a
their
Post Office Pavilion,
and Georgetown Park
interesting specialty stores. If
be deadly to eight-year-olds.
sell
And don't forget that age-old panacea
check the Washington Post "Weekend"
for their patience
tell
keep children
the sun doesn't shine or if you're museumed-out. Catch Station's nine-screen
creations Tuesday through Sunday. for
some other options
rule out
—even while
Museums and
the
is
to reward
really special
list.
it's
your youngsters
when
And you'll
if
of Art can
the weather
enjoy
it,
too.
can help you and your kids weather a storm: Stay in a
hotel with an indoor pool;
on rainy
days, kids love getting
wet indoors.
152
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
Washingtons Top 20 Tours With only a few exceptions
(such as the FBI),
it isn't
absolutely necessary to
join a group tour while visiting Washington's attractions. Simply explore
on your own,
letting
your curiosity and
egy works well in a large History
—dinosaur
museum
such
interests
as the
What
follows
is
a highly arbitrary
can be a nice change of pace to
it
have an expert lead you by the hand and
—who knows?—even
list
U.S.
Department
at
introducing visitors to
For addresses and phone numbers for the
their respective attractions.
1
listings in Part
fol-
Seven (page 179).
of State Diplomatic Reception
Rooms
advantages of taking tours that require advance reservations tour guides are top-notch.
enlighten
of guided tours that the authors
of the Unofficial Guide think do a splendid job
lowing attractions, see the
strat-
Museum of Natural Hope Diamond? Take
skeletons? an insect zoo? the
your pick. At selected locations, though,
you.
be your guide. This
National
The guide we encountered on
this
One is
of the
that the
tour of the
$90 million rooms housed on the eighth floor of this otherwise humdrum building really knew her stuff, from the art on the walls to the historical significance
of the impressive furniture that
fdls these spectacular,
ornate rooms. 2.
wandering the
from
Alas, post-September 11, visitors are prohibited
U.S. Capitol
halls
of the Capitol and must
arrive very early to pick
up
a
time-ticket for a guided tour (that day only). Stick close to your guide so
you can hear
his or her
comments about
the artwork
on
display
and the
history of the building.
Washington National Cathedral While wander around in, don't do it: Take the 3.
this
free
is
an easy place to just
tour.
The docent
(or
museum guide) who led our group of out-of-towners showed enthusiasm, a real concern for her charges, and a deep knowledge of the cathementioned the
dral.
She
tour,
which we stayed
4.
also
for. It
Library of Congress
who ing
takes your
group to
organ demonstration that followed the
free
turned out to be the highlight of our day.
by a knowledgeable tour guide the Jefferson Building's magnificent Main ReadThis tour
Room, one of the most
is
led
beautiful interiors in
D.C. And don't miss the
1 2-minute video that explains the mission of the world's largest library.
5.
Daughters of the American Revolution (DAR)
Rooms them
all
Our tour of the period rooms
on one tour) was led by a poised young
her history
—and her
handsome
building that serves as
decorative
arts.
She
Museum and
(there are 33, but
also
woman who
Period
no one really
sees
knew
was well informed on the
DAR headquarters: A special
railroad
spur was built to bring the massive, solid-marble columns on the front of the building to the
of bliss.
site.
For antique lovers,
this
tour
is
about two hours
I
1
Washington's Top 20 Tours
The
6,
The 45-minute
Phillips Collection
modern
in the
tour highlights the best items
and puts them
art collection
of the wealthy
in the context
museum. The guides know
collector
who founded
age to
together different art periods as they talk about the paintings.
tie
comfortable Phillips
and
tours are free 7.
Millwood
the
welcome
a
is
oflFered
Museum
guided tour was
contrast to Mall
their art
and man-
The
megamuseums. Guided
on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Our
length
its
53
1
only complaint about the reservation-only
—two
hours. But
it
will fascinate
anyone
inter-
ested in the decorative arts, antiques, jewelry, porcelain, paintings, furniture
.
.
It's
the
.
may
visitors
list
also
goes on. But following Millwood's recent renovation,
wander
at will
a breathtaking collection,
on
self-guided tours; the choice
and
is
yours.
groups led by
you'll tour in small
knowledgeable guides.
Museum
National Air and Space
8.
Dedicated space cadets and
unapologetic Star Trek fanatics should take the (offered daily at 10:30 a.m.
the
main
lobby).
visited in the 9.
U.S.
It's
world
a
and
1
good introduction
interior
welcome center
to this sprawling
—museum.
Department of the Treasury
scenes tour
one-hour tour
free,
p.m.; meet at the
This reservation-only, behind-the-
lets visitors feel like they're really
seeing something special.
of the building was recently renovated:
through sumptuous
offices
in
—and most
The
and corridors restored
The
tour takes you
to their original,
mid-nineteenth-century opulence. [Note: For security reasons, tours have been suspended until further notice.) 10.
The Voice of America (VOA) We liked this small, off-the-bearenMost of the visitors who go are from foreign countries and lis-
track tour.
ten to Voice of America broadcasts at
home. (Listening
to the
VOA
in
the United States requires a shortwave radio.) You'll also see a four-panel
mural painted by noted
artist
Ben Shahn
in the early 1940s.
And
the
broadcast studios are really neat. 1
.
Arlington National
transporting visitors
Cemetery
Tourmobile does
a
good job of
around 612-acre Arlington National Cemetery. The
thought of trying to see
all
the sights in the cemetery
on
foot
makes our
The tour bus stops at the Kennedy gravesite, the Tomb of the Unknowns, and Arlington House, where you can linger as long as you like, since you have unlimited boarding privileges to the buses that come feet hurt.
about every
1
5 minutes.
The Kennedy Center This leisurely tour of the sumptuous performcenter and JFK memorial gives visitors a behind-the-scenes look at Washington's cultural life, as well as a chance to linger over some of the artwork donated to the center from countries around the world. The 3601
2.
mg arts
degree view of Washington from the center's roof terrace
is
a knockout.
154
The National
3.
1
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
{Note: Currently closed for renova-
Portrait Gallery
museum
tions, this
What would have museum turned into
sclieduled to reopen in 2006.)
is
been an aimless ramble through
this
downtown
art
tour. On a whim, we asked the guard at the information when the next guided tour left. The answer: "Whenever you're ready." So we received a tour from a docent who's the wife of an admiral and really knows her history. The moral: Don't be afraid to ask for the free
an informative desk
tour,
which
and from
is
1 1
on weekends 14.
at
11:15 a.m. and
A
Decatur House
early
by request between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. weekdays
available
a.m. to 1:30 p.m. weekends. Scheduled tours are also offered
Washington
to
1
p.m. Call (202) 275-1738 for
half-hour tour of this Federalist as the tour guide explains
life
what
details.
home life
brings
was
like
Stephen Decatur lived here in 1819. Upstairs, visitors get a glimpse
when of how
upper-crust Washington society, including President and Mrs.
Kennedy, were entertained by
later
Woodrow Wilson House
A
1
5.
primes you
where President Wilson
White House. He was
the only president to live
Washington
son's
after leaving office.
day-to-day
16.
Cedar
life,
Hill
such
basement kitchen.
The nineteenth-century home of aboUtionist Frederick Our well-informed guide provided a detailed commenlife
and
as Douglass's barbells
visit is
house tricity,
preserves elements of Wil-
a find.
on Douglass's
tary
see
is
The house
including an ancient movie projector he used and
his meticulously kept
Douglass
video narrated by Walter Cronkite
for a detailed tour of the house
retired after leaving the
in
owners of the house.
times, including pointing out intimate details
on the
floor next to his bed.
A late
afternoon
almost like stepping back into the nineteenth century because the is
preserved as
it
was when Douglass died
and the gathering shadows
"The Growlery," a
small,
in 1895: There's
in the house evoke the past.
one-room
structure behind the
no
elec-
Be sure
to
main house
Douglass declared off-limits to the household so that he could work alone.
The 45-minute
IT.The Franciscan Monastery
and
recently restored church
ful,
replicas
hair-raising stories of Christian martyrs told
But the
real treat
guide
you wind your way through a
1
8.
as
is
Mount Vernon
that give insight into
how
the slaves
vista has
replica
life
from a number of guided tours on an eighteenth-century plantation^including
owned by
America's
first
visitors get a
(the city)
makes
it
you should.
to
president lived. Plus, the river
view that closely resembles the
Not everyone who comes to Mount Vernon, located 16 miles down
one George enjoyed more than 200 years the Potomac. But
by your
of Roman catacombs.
Visitors can choose
been preserved and
Washington
tour includes a beauti-
of shrines in the Holy Land.
ago.
— Taking an Orientation Tour
1
9.
and 20-
After seeing nothing but sumptuousness
Gadsby's Tavern
foot ceilings in Washington's magnificent edifices,
make
a reHef to
it's
155
the
how average Americans lived and worked in the eighteenth century. The tour of this tavern gives a glimpse of how most people traveled, ate, and slept during the period when short trek to Alexandria and see
Alexandria was a major port 20.
—and Washington
This popular tour follows a rigid formula exe-
FBI Headquarters
cuted with military precision and features
good? The young sentations that plays of guns,
wanted" fire at
didn't exist.
women
lots
of static displays. But
is it
leading the tour recited a series of canned pre-
sounded memorized. Most of the
exhibits are inert dis-
drug paraphernalia, fingerprinting methods, and old "most
posters.
We suspect
the end of the tour
it's
weapons
the demonstration of automatic
—and —
agent talk and answer questions
the chance to hear a real FBI special that
makes
this
tour so popular. {Note:
Tours are suspended for renovations and scheduled to resume in
late
2005 or 2006.)
Taking an Orientation Tour Washington
First-time visitors to
but — "motorized
notice the regular proces-
can't help
sion of open-air, multicar tour buses
—
trolleys"
probably a
is
along the Mall, the major
more accurate term that prowl the streets monuments, Arlington Cemetery, downtown, Georgetown, and Upper Northwest Washington. These regularly scheduled shuttle buses drop off
and pick up paying customers along
a route that includes the
popular attractions. Between stops, passengers
about the
city's
towns most guide talk
listen to a tour
monuments, museums, and famous
The
buildings.
guides also suggest good places to eat and drop tidbits of interesting
and often humorous trip to
—Washington
trivia.
Our
advice: If this
Washington, take one of the tours early in your
Here's why: Geographically,
Washington
is
a spread-out
ing to hoof it to Capitol Hill, the Washington
is
your
first
visit. city.
Attempt-
Monument, and
the Lin-
coln and Jefferson Memorials in one day amounts to cruel and unusual
punishment
to the
body
—
especially
humid Washington afternoon and
a
your
feet.
few cranky
Throw
kids,
and
in a it's
hot and
a recipe for
vacation meltdown.
Think of
the narrated shuttle-bus tours that cruise Washington as a
special transportation system that not only gets sights,
The money you pay leges for that day, so later
you
but also provides a timely education on the for
to the
most popular
city's size
and scope.
your ticket allows unlimited reboarding
you can
get off at
bus (they run at 20- to 30-minute
privi-
any scheduled stop and reboard a intervals).
Washington Old Town Trolley
Trolley Stops and Ticket Sales
O
Union
Station
Capitol Arboretum
Old Post
Office/ American
National History
O 9 O Q O Q ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ (^ ^ 156
Museum
and
Museums
of Women in the Arts
Chinatown FBI Building/Ford's Theatre
Freedom Plaza/National Aquarium
The
NXTiite
House
National Geographic Society
Dupont
Circle
Neighborhood
Kalorama/Adams-Morgan Neighborhoods Washington National Cathedral Georgetown Washington Harbour Lincoln Memorial/Vietnam Veterans Memorial Arlington National Cemetery
Washington Monument/Holocaust Museum Air and Space Museum/Smithsonian Mall U.S. Capitol/Library of Congress
— Taking an Orientation Tour
The good
on
three guided tours that operate
Tourmobile, Old
Town
and Gray
Trolley,
157
a regular route in the city
Red Trolley
Line's Li'l
—
are
values.
•-Tourmobile
has the National Park Service franchise and shutdes
open-air, articulated buses to 18 sights
around the Mall, Capitol
Hill,
its
and
Arlington Cemetery from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. For tour information, call
(202) 554-5100. Ticket booths are located at Arlington Cemetery, the
Monument, but you can board
Lincoln Memorial, and the Washington
at
any red-and-white Tourmobile stop sign on the route and pay the driver
The company
($20 adults, $10 children ages 3 to 11). tours to
Mount Vernon
(four hours;
$25
adults,
11; fee includes admission to the estate)
and
$12
also runs narrated
for children ages 3 to
to the Frederick
Douglass
National Historical Site in Anacostia (two-and-a-half hours; $7 adults,
$3.50 for children ages 3 to 11), mid-June through Labor Day.
Old Town Trolley takes visitors to the Mall, downtown Washington, Dupont Circle, posh Northwest Washington, Embassy Row, and Georgetown. If you're staying at one of the following hotels, you can hop on board and be dropped at your door: Hyatt Regency, Grand Hyatt, Marriott Metro Center,
J.W
Marriott,
Hotel Washington, Capitol
Hilton, Holiday Inn Capitol Hill, and the Washington Hilton. Tickets
($28 adults, $14 for children ages 4 to 12) can be purchased from the driver or at ticket booths located at
9 a.m. (10 a.m. Sunday) and run
information,
Gray
call
most of the
stops.
on the half-hour
The
tours begin at
until 5 p.m. For
more
(202) 832-9800.
Line's Li'l
Red Trolley
Mall, Capitol Hill, Chinatown,
features
Dupont
"hop on -hop off" Circle,
service at the
Adams-Morgan, Embassy
Row, Georgetown, Foggy Bottom, Arlington Cemetery, and the Waterfront.
The two-hour
the fare
is
circuit operates
on
a half-hour schedule year-round;
$31 for adults and $17 for children ages 3 to
11. Hotels
on the
18-stop route include the Holiday Inn Capitol Hill, Willard Hotel,
Mayflower Hotel, Washington Hilton, Marriott Wardman Park, Holiday Inn on the
Hill,
and the Renaissance D.C. For more information,
call
(800) 862-1400 or (202) 289-1995.
Hint: If you didn't drive to Washington and don't have a
advantage of Old
Town
Trolley or the
Li'l
Red
ton National Cathedral and Georgetown; neither tion,
and getting off now
car,
take
Trolley to visit Washingis
close to a
can save on cab fare or shoe leather
Metro
sta-
later.
Old
also offers a "Monuments by Moonlight" tour, which visits and memorials while tour guides tell ghost stomonuments illuminated p.m. at Union Station and last about two hours. Tours begin at 7:30 ries. The cost is $30 for adults and $15 for children ages 4 to 12.
Town Trolley
158
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
Other Commercial Guided Tours While Tourmobile, Old Town at shuttling visitors
and
Trolley,
Li'l
Red Trolley do
around Washington's major
number of other local companies offer more specialized run-down of some tours that are a little different. Gray Line offers a wide variety of narrated bus tours Washington. Half-day,
most popular
ington's
buildings.
Gray Line and
and overnight tours take
all-day,
good job
a
tourist attractions, a tours. Here's a
and around
in
visitors to
Wash-
including the Mall museums, government
sights,
Embassy Row, and Mount Vernon and Alexandria in Virginia. also offers a "Washington After Dark" tour to see monuments
federal buildings flooded in lights, a black heritage tour, trips to
Harpers Ferry and the Gettysburg
battlefield,
multilingual tours of
Washington, and tours of Monticello and Williamsburg. Tours depart
from Union
Go
you
for
more information.
DC Ducks tour. The narrated, 90-minute tour of
Washington's sights and as
289-1995
Station; call (202)
amphibious on a
monuments
cruise in a restored
1
942
features
DUKW,
30 minutes on the Potomac
created during
supply ships in areas that didn't have ports.
Gravely Point, where as
it
feels like
Union
for children
Station hourly,
4 to 12.
No
on boat
attraction
is
tours of the
The
cost
is
for adults
late
October.
and Water
Streets,
Mount Vernon, where
SW, takes The star
fall.
the boat docks
and you can tour the mansion and grounds. Call (202) 554-8000 or www.spiritcruises.com for information and
rates
on lunch,
dinner,
moonlight dance party cruises aboard an air-conditioned luxury
Odyssey III jazz brunches,
cruises the
Potomac River year-round,
lunch and dinner
and three-hour
trips feature live
to
overhead
jets
$28
Potomac River spring through
the half-day cruise to
II
reservations accepted; the tours leave
March through
Spirit Cruises, located at Pier 4, Sixth visitors
World War
tour finishes up at
you can almost touch the
they land and take off at National Airport.
and $14
The
cruises,
and midnight
visit
and
ship.
Sunday Two-hour
offering
cruises.
music, entrees and desserts prepared on
board by a four-star chef, and views of Washington from outside decks
and through the
ship's glass ceilings. Prices
person; prices for children under age cruises only. Jackets are
1 1
recommended
range from $38 to $92 per
are half the adult rates for lunch for
gentlemen on dinner
cruises.
Gangplank Marina, 6th and Water Streets, SW, near the Waterfront Metro station on the green line. For more informaOdyssey departs from the
tion
and
reservations, call (800)
946-7245 or (202) 488-6000; or go
to
www.odysseycruises.com.
The Cruise Ship Dandy
Old Town Alexandria for dinner cruises that feature after-dinner dancing. Sights along the way include the floodlit Capitol dome. Lunch cruises run from $32-$40 per person, dindeparts
— 1
Optimum Adult Touring
Plan
159
ner cruises start at $75 per person. Call (703) 683-6076 for information
and schedules, or
visit their
GNP's Scandal Tours
Web
who
about Washington and those not a sight-seeing tour
site at
www.dandydinnerboat.coin.
will reinforce every evil rule.
—and makes
It's
thought you ever had
comedy review on wheels
a
stops
predictably enough, the
at,
Watergate complex, the White House (where 494 of
Bill Clinton's close
personal friends spent the night in the Lincoln Bedroom), and the Tidal Basin,
where a powerful member of Congress once went skinny-dipping
with a
stripper. Seventy-five-minute public tours depart Saturdays at
a.m. and
1
1
p.m., April through Labor Day, from 12th Street and Penn-
sylvania Avenue,
NW Reservations are required; Web
more information or check out the
call
(202) 783-7212 for
www.gnpcomedy.com.
site at
Private charters are available year-round.
Bike the Sites
offers a
ton, D.C.'s history
and
new and
calorie-burning
by
architecture:
bicycle.
way
Two
to see
Washing-
licensed guides lead
daily tours averaging three hours. Bicycles, helmets, water, snacks,
necessary equipment are provided
Tour ($55) and the
Sites call
(202) 842-BlKE, or
Sites
visit
on the
and
all
Tours include the Capital
rides.
@ NiteTour ($35).
For more information,
www.bikethesites.com.
The Guide
Service of Washington, the oldest and largest in D.C.,
offers private,
customized VIP tours led by licensed guides. For foreign
visitors,
guides are available
who
speak your native tongue. Four-hour
tours start at $160, plus transportation, regardless of the size of your
group. Call (202) 628-2842 for
more information.
Children's Concierge designs custom itineraries for families and provides interactive ways for kids to get involved in Washington's cultural
and
historical sights.
call
(301) 948-3312.
This
is
not a tour service; for information and
Optimum Adult Touring An Optimum Touring itinerary, a minimum time), a surprisingly free),
rates,
Plan
Plan in Washington, D.C., requires a thoughtful
of
five
days in town
not including travel
(i.e.,
modest amount of money (most
and a comfortable
pair of walking shoes.
It
attractions are
also requires a fairly
prodigious appetite for marble edifices, huge museums, and historical trivia.
We will
provide an itinerary; the
With an Optimum Touring
rest
is
you can
Plan,
up
to you.
see the various attractions in
and around Washington without facing huge crowds on the Mall, in
restaurants
and shops
that are
jammed
to
capacity,
sitting
or trudging
through heat and humidity during sweltering afternoons. Since an
of D.C.,
it
Optimum Touring makes
Plan
calls for
seeing a lot of different parts
for easier logistics if you stay at a hotel that's in the city
160
Part Six
and
close to a
can
still
SIght-seelngTIps and Tours
Metro
But even
station.
if your
hotel
is
you
in the suburbs,
use the day-by-day plan as long as you can walk to the Metro.
some time commuting, but you may save some money on hotel rates. You'll lose even more time if you have to drive to a Metro station and park (see page 121). Once you get in your car and start driving
You'll lose
around Plan,
in D.C., you're defeating the
and
you'll
know
If you plan to
We repeat:
it.
purpose of the
Washington during the
visit
Optimum Touring
Don't drive in the busiest
city.
months
page
(see
29), you need to get up early to beat the crowds. Getting free "time tickets" for the Washington Monument and Bureau of Engraving and Print-
ing
is
basically incompatible
with sleeping
and enjoy your touring experience,
when crowds is
are smaller.
visit
in. If
you want
Washington
The Optimum Touring
in the
to sleep late
fall
or winter,
Plan assumes your
visit
during the busy season.
We and
do not
believe there
stood,
what follows
is
one
on what
basic perspectives is
is
ideal itinerary. Tastes, levels
of energy,
interesting or edifying vary. This under-
our personal version of an optimum Washington
vacation week.
Before You 1.
Go
Write your congressperson
advance
as far in
as possible for
on
tour reservations and a packet of free information
VIP
visiting
Washington. 2.
Determine which of the advance reservations,
make them
attractions that appeal to
select
one or two that most
for the afternoon of
Day 3
at the
you require
interest you,
and
same time you write
your congressperson. 3.
Read through sights that
ton 4.
all
your information and make an informal
you and your family want
to see during
list
of
your Washing-
stay.
Break in a pair of thick-soled walking shoes.
On-Site
DAYO 1
Arrive and get settled. Explore the features and amenities of your hotel.
2.
If you get tle,
checked in by 3 p.m., go to the Mall and
visit
the Cas-
the Smithsonian's visitor center. (If you're not within walking
distance, this
is
an opportunity to get familiar with the Metro.
Read our chapter on how Smithsonian
noon, you
it
station.) Since
may have
works and take the red
crowds
line to the
start to thin in the late after-
time to duck into the National Air and Space
Optimum Adult Touring Museum
Museum
or the National
Plan
of Natural History
after
161
view-
ing the orientation film in the Castle.
Take the Metro
3.
to
Dupont
Circle for dinner at the Thai, Japanese,
or Greek restaurant of your choice.
either the Li'l will save
DAY
When
you
get back to your
check with the desk to find the nearest stop for boarding
hotel,
Trolley or Tourmobile sight-seeing tours. This
Red
you time
in the
morning.
I
After breakfast at your hotel, board one of the sight-seeing buses for
an orientation tour of Washington. The driver
sells tickets.
Stay on the bus for a complete circuit, which takes about an hour
and
a half (two hours for Li'l
ets are
Red Trolley; Old Town
Trolley tick-
only good for one complete tour). You'll gain a good
overview of Washington's huge number of attractions, which will help you decide what sights you want to see this trip
ones can wait for another
—and which
visit.
For lunch, get off the tour bus
at
Union
Station,
an architectural
masterpiece, and head for the lower-level food court.
decide what stops you want to
Reboard your tour bus
at
make from
Union
Over lunch,
the bus this afternoon.
Station. In deciding
where
to get
off next, consider an attraction that's not convenient to your
On
hotel.
Red
Li'l
Trolley,
both Georgetown and Washington
National Cathedral are good choices.
guides
on the buses
rants,
and
tions.
Tour
On
Tourmobile, consider
hint: Some of the know their stuff regarding sights, restauon how to tour D.C. Ask them for sugges-
the Arlington National
Cemetery
tour.
Another
really
strategies
until dinnertime.
Return to your hotel. For dinner, take a cab to Georgetown. After dinner, take in a stroll
DAY
and some
nightlife.
2
L An
early start:
Get
to the
Mall by 7 a.m. and pick up "time
tick-
Washington Monument, and
White House, the Bureau of Engraving and Printing.
ets" to the
the
2.
After lunch, return to your hotel for a nap or a dip in the pool.
3.
Around 3 p.m.
Metro to Dupont Circle, where you can down Embassy Row, and stop in Anderson House, a sumptuous mansion and museum. Then have dinner in one of the many restaurants nearby.
window-shop,
take the
stroll
162
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
DAY
3
1.
Get
Spy
in line for the International
Museum
After breakfast, hit one of the popular Mall
tour by 8:30 a.m.
museums
before the
crowds show up: Air and Space, American History, or Natural History. 2.
on some of the best art galleries in the and the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden. Or take the tour of the U.S. Department
After lunch, concentrate
world of
—
the National Gallery of Art
State's
Diplomatic Reception Rooms or one of the other
up before the
reservation-only tours that you set
hours off your the five-story 3.
feet
sounds
IMAX screen
Metro
Air and Space
at the
Take the Metro to Gallery Place take the
trip. If a
and
Post Office Pavilion for dessert
at
Museum.
Chinatown. Then
for dinner in
to the Federal Triangle station
few
movie
attractive, consider taking in a
and go
to the
a spectacular night
Old
view of
Washington from the 315-foot-high clock tower. Afterwards, go to a jazz or blues club.
DAY
4
1.
Sleep in from your night
U.S. Capitol (arrive at the kiosk by 8 a.m. to pick up
tickets), the
Supreme Court, and the Library of Congress. Eat
lunch 2.
on the town. In the morning tour Capi-
tol Hill: the
at a Capitol Hill cafe.
If it's a scorching
summer
day, consider
lunch: downtown's American Art trait
one of these options
Museum and
after
the National Por-
Gallery (both closed to renovations until July 2006) or the
DAR Museum. Around 4 p.m., and walk or take a cab
take the Metro to
to the National
from the many restaurants
in
Woodley
Woodley Park
Zoo. For dinner, pick
Park. Hit the sack early:
You'll be tired.
^
DAYS 1.
Either drive or take the 8:30 a.m.
Tourmobile
Potomac
to
River. If
you
Visit
estate
on the
drive, leave before 7:30 a.m. or after 9:30
a.m. to avoid the worst rush-hour 2.
Gray Line bus or the 10 a.m.
Mount Vernon, George Washington's
Old Town Alexandria
for
traffic.
lunch and more eighteenth-
century Americana. Stop in the Torpedo Factory to shop for
unique 3.
arts
and
crafts.
If you're visiting in the
tary
summer,
band concert. These
start
are held
your evening with a
on
free mili-
a rotating basis at 8 p.m. at
Touring Strategies either the U.S.
1
63
Navy Memorial (Archives/Navy Memorial Metro),
the steps of the U.S. Capitol (Capitol South Metro), or the Sylvan
Monument
Theatre, located on the grounds of the Washington
(Smithsonian Metro). Afterwards, take the Metro to the Waterfront station
and walk
to a
Maine Avenue seafood
restaurant for dinner.
The Red Line Tour things are really hectic
mind
spring and
worst
—
consider exploring a wide range of tourist attractions along the
Metro's red
line. You'll
some of the
still
see
can
see, station 1.
—
down on the Mall we especially have in summer weekends, when the crowds are at their
When
Union
by
avoid the worst of the throngs packing the
best sights in Washington. Here's a
list
cit)^
yet
of sights you
station:
Museum,
Station: National Postal
U.S. Supreme Court,
U.S. Capitol, Folger Shakespeare Library, Library of Congress 2.
Museum, National Law
National Building
Square:
Judiciar)^
Enforcement Officers Memorial 3.
Gallery Place/Chinatown: City tional
Museum
of Washington, Interna-
Science
Museum, American Art
Spy Museum, Koshland
Museum and
the National Portrait Gallery (closed for renovations
until July 2006), Ford's Theatre,
Chinatown
4.
Metro Center: National Museum of Women
5.
Farragut North: National Geographic Society's Explorers Hall
6.
Dupont
7.
Woodley Park/Zoo
Center,
Circle:
Phillips
Collection,
Woodrow Wilson House,
in the Arts
Anderson House, Islamic
Textile
Museum
or Cleveland Park: National Zoo,
Washington
National Cathedral (Both require some walking, however.)
Touring Strategies Attractions Grouped by Metro Station With
the exception of the
ing your
think a
visit
list
Red Line Tour, we
don't
recommend
around attractions located near Metro
stations.
structur-
But we do
of tourist attractions located within walking distance of Metro
stations can help
make
a last-minute touring selection to
fill
in part of a
—
morning or afternoon and maybe save you a buck or two in Metro fares. A warning: Although this list shows what attractions are closest to a Metro station, some sights could be as far as 20 minutes away by foot. An example: While the Foggy coln Memorial,
it's still
Bottom/GWU Metro
is
the closest to the Lin-
about a three-quarter-mile hike.
164
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
RED LINE The National
Brookland/CUA
the Franciscan Monastery (10-
Union Station
Shrine of the Immaculate Conception,
and 20-minute walks,
National Postal
Museum,
the U.S.
respectively)
Supreme Court, the
U.S. Capitol, Senate office buildings, Folger Shakespeare Library Judiciary Square
ment
National Building
Museum, National Law
National Portrait Gallery (closed for renova-
Gallery Place/Chinatown
American Art Museum
tions until July 2006),
(closed for renovations
Chinatown, National Building Museum, Washington
until July 2006),
Convention Center, Ford's Theatre, the FBI pended). International Spy
Museum
Enforce-
and Albert Small Jewish Museum
Officers Memorial, the Lillian
(tours temporarily sus-
Museum, Koshland
Science
Museum, City
of Washington
Metro Center
ment of the
National
Treasury, the
Museum
of Women in the Arts, U.S. Depart-
Washington Convention Center, the Shops
at
National Place
Swank shops on Connecticut Avenue, National Geo-
Farragut North
graphic Society's Explorers Hall
•-
Shops and restaurants. Embassy Row, the
Dupont
Circle
lection,
Anderson House, the Islamic Center, Woodrow Wilson House,
the Textile
Phillips Col-
Museum, House of the Temple
Woodley Park/National Zoo National Zoo, Washington National Cathedral, Adams-Morgan {Note: The Zoo is about a 10-minute walk; Adams-Morgan is about 1 5 minutes away on foot; and the Cathedral is a half-hour
stroll.)
Van Ness/UDC
Intelsat,
Hillwood
Museum
(20-minute walk)
BLUE AND ORANGE LINES Capitol South
Library of Congress,
House
office buildings, Capitol
Hill restaurants, the U.S. Capitol, Folger Shakespeare Library, the U.S.
Supreme Court Federal Center,
L'Enfant
SW
PlaA
[iiSEntftr^hc
U.S. Botanic Garden, the National Air and Space
Shops and restaurants, the National Air and Space
Hirshhorn
Museum and
Sculpture Garden, the Arts and
Industries Building (closed for renovation), National
Museum
of the
i^aajndian Smithsonian^^
The National
Mall, the Freer and Sackler Galleries, the
fuseum of African Art, the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, the National
Museum
of Natural History, the National
Museum
of
Touring Strategies
165
American History, the Washington Monument, the Smithsonian Castle visitor center, the Tidal Basin, the Jefferson Memorial (20-minute walk),
FDR
Memorial (20-minute walk), the U.S.
Museum, National World War
II
Memorial
Holocaust
Memorial, National
Museum
of the
American Indian
ium, the FBI National
temporarily suspended),
(tours
Museum
History, the
Post Office Pavilion, the National Aquar-
The Old
Federal Triangle
Pennsylvania Avenue,
of American History, National
White House
Museum
of Natural
Visitors Center, Visitor Information Center
Ronald Reagan Building)
(in the
McPherson Square
The White House,
the Washington Post building,
Lafayette Park
Farragut
West
Decatur House, Renwick Gallery, the Old Executive
Office Building, the
DAR -Museum,
White House, the Corcoran Gallery of Octagon
Foggy Bottorrt/GWU LS_
Art, the
the Ellipse, the
The Kennedy
Center, the U.S. Department of
Diplomatic Reception Rooms, Vietnam Veterans Memorial,
Korean War Veterans Memorial, National World War II Memorial, the Reflecting Pool, the Lincoln Memorial, the FDR Memorial, Georgetown (20--to 3t)-mi{iute walk)
Arlington NationalxCemetery
-eeia:^i«d.ED£LMemo rials
(across
Pentagon The Pentagon (closed
Arlington National Cemetery, the Lin-
Memorial Bridge) to visitors)
Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport
Ronald Reagan Wash-
ington National Airport
King Street rants,
Old Town Alexandria
(1
5-minute walk), shops and restau-
the Torpedo Factory (20-minute walk), the George Washington
National Masonic Memorial
YELLOW LINE Gallery Place/Chinatown
,
National Portrait Gallery (closed for renova-
American Art Museum (closed for renovations National Building Museum, Washington Chinatown, until July 2006), Convention Center, Ford's Theatre, the FBI (tours temporarily sustions until July 2006),
pended), International Spy
Museum
Museum, Koshland
Science
Archives/Navy Memorial
The National
Archives,
Memorial, the National Gallery of Art, the National History
Museum, City
of Washington the
U.S.
Museum
Navy
of Natural
166
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
GREEN LINE Washington's Potomac River waterfront area (restaurants,
Waterfront
marinas, and river cruises). Fort McNair, Arena Stage
Seeing Washington on aTight Schedule
Many
do not have
visitors
They may be en making
drive,
touring
is
days to devote to visiting Washington.
Such
visitors
may
live
within a day's
way, efficient, time-effective
later visits practical. Either
a must.
attractions or
five
route to other destinations, or
cannot afford long waits in
Even the most
efficient touring plan will
an entire day to the Mall (but not
car.
not allow the visitor to
the Mall, Capitol Hill, and Georgetown in one day, so plan at least
line to see
spend hours trying to find a place to park the family
just
on
visit
allocating
museums), and devoting
your remaining days to other parts of Washington that appeal to you.
One-Day Touring
A comprehensive tour of Washington a day trip to
off hinges
A.
Washington can be
on following some
Determine
What
in
is
literally
impossible in a day. But
a fun, rewarding experience. Pulling
it
basic rules.
Advance What You Realty Want to See
are the categories that appeal to
spend your day on Capitol
you most?
Hill. If it's exploring
If
government,
it's
museums,
visit
the Mall.
If you like trendy shops and a sophisticated ambience, go to Georgetown
or
Dupont
B. Select
Circle.
an Area to
For example,
if visiting
Visit
the U.S. Capitol
is
your
goal, look at
what other
nearby attractions on Capitol Hill or the east end of the Mall interest you. That
way you won't waste time and
steps.
C. Arrive Early! Arrive Early! Arrive Early! This
is
the single
most important key
to efficient touring
and avoiding
big crowds. First thing in the morning, lines are short at the Bureau of
Engraving and Printing and the Washington Monument's ticket kiosk. You can visit three famous Washington attractions in one or two hours that would take an entire afternoon if you arrived at noon. Eat breakfast before you arrive so you will not have to waste your prime touring time sitting in a
crowded
restaurant.
D. Avoid Bottlenecks Helping you avoid bottlenecks and big crowds
is
what
this
guide
is all
about. Bottlenecks occur as a result of crowd concentrations in the
Touring Strategies
1
67
absence of crowd management. Concentrations of hungry people create bottlenecks at restaurants during the lunch and dinner hours; concentrations of visitors heading toward the best
museums, and government buildings
known monuments, memorials,
create elbow-to-elbow
ing afternoons. Avoiding bottlenecks involves
crowds dur-
knowing when and where
large concentrations of visitors begin to occur.
In addition, daytrippers need to avoid the
make
tions to I.
the trip worthwhile. There are
Park Your Car
the
you
in
Metro extends to battle
stomach
On
D.C.
fills
traffic, as
well as saving
do
it:
you time, money, and free at
arrive before 7 a.m.,
limited to
is
New
by 8 a.m.);
to
Maryland and Virginia,
weekends, Metro users park for
suburban Metro stations
which
in
Beltway and beyond, eliminating the need for
to the
Washington
acid.
two ways
In suburban
the Suburbs
During the week, unless you
station.
agony of driving
they expect to have any fun and see enough Washington attrac-
traffic if
five:
any suburban your choice of
Vienna (on 1-66
in Virginia,
Carrollton (on the Beltway in Maryland);
Greenbelt (also on the Beltway in Maryland); Shady Grove (off 1-270 in
Maryland); and Silver Spring (inside the Beltway in Maryland). We recommend that you park at a Maryland station, unless you can make it to a Virginia station very early.
minute,
From
the outermost suburbs,
it's
about a 20-
Payment must be made vending machines in Metro sta-
stress-free train ride to the Mall. {Note.
by using a SmarTrip fare card, sold in tions or online at www.wniata.coni).
New Carrollton
has plenty of parking, plus a parking garage for over-
Take Beltway Exit 19B (US 50 west) and follow the signs to the Metro. Go to the second parking lot, where you can park all day for flow.
$6.75
(free
$7.50
all
station
on weekends).
On
day.
on your return
parking garage
is
If
it's
filled,
park in the
five-level garage for
weekdays, make sure to pick up a bus transfer in the trip to qualify for the
scheduled to open here in
low parking
rate.
November of 2005;
A new
the exist-
ing Metro park and ride here will be closed until then.
Greenbelt
is
an easy Metro station to reach for daytrippers from
more and other points Parkway south off at Exit 24,
ing
is
to the Capital Beltway,
which goes
is
go south about two miles and get
to the Greenbelt
$3.50 during the week,
Totten station (which
free
Metro
temporarily the end of the
ing
is
in the
$4
for the
day
the train to the Fort line)
and
which (free
takes
on weekends);
nearby garage for $2.50.
"Sam
you direcdy if
transfer to
you downtown.
has plenty of parking for daytrippers.
near Gaithersbur|, take Exit 9 (marked ast,
station. All-day park-
on weekends. Take
IredlinetrSmto Shady Grove, which takes
Shady GroveVlso
Balti-
north. Take 1-95 or the Baltimore- Washington
to the station.
the
From 1-270
Eig Highway/Metro Sta-
Metro
Metro park-
lots are filled,
park
168
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
Silver Spring
because
it
is
means
a
somewhat
convenient option for daytrippers
less
commercial parking close Beltway and turn
Take
by.
who
is
around $6
Taking the
Take the Train
and park
it,
in
one of the big
for the day.
train to
Washington
is
a snap for day visi-
Richmond
along the Eastern Seaboard from
live
plenty of
onto Georgia Avenue in downtown Silver Spring;
left
parking garages. Parking 2.
there's
US 29/Colesville Road south from the
follow the signs to the Metro, loop past
tors
But
a short drive inside the Beltway.
to Philadelphia.
Amtrak, Maryland commuter (MARC), and Virginia Railway Express trains arrive at
gleaming Union Station, located on the Metro's red
You can be on
the Mall minutes after getting off your train.
Station, visitors are only a
few blocks' walk from the U.S. Capitol, the U.S.
Supreme Court, the Library of Congress, the Folger Shakespeare and the newest Smithsonian
From
line.
From Union
Virginia, Virginia Railway Express operates
and Manassas
(to the south)
connecting Fredericksburg
Library,
Museum. two commuter
the National Postal
facility,
lines
(to the west)
with Union Station in downtown Washington. The 18-station system offers
inbound
service in the
Monday through
noons,
mornings and outbound
Friday. For
service in the after-
more information,
1001 or (800) RIDE VRE (743-3873) or
visit
call
(703) 684-
www.vre.org.
MARC train service operates three lines connecting Washington with the Maryland suburbs: one to
BWI
airport,
another to
downtown
Balti-
more, and the third goes northwest along the Potomac River into western
Maryland. For information and schedules for Amtrak, the national passenger train service,
call
(800) 872-7245 or
express
Metrohner information,
Amtrak
also provides
lines
used by
call
visit
(800)
weekend and holiday
www.amtrak.com. For
523-8720. By the way,
service along several of the
MARC and Virginia Railway Express
(but at a higher cost
than the commuter services).
Excursions beyond the Beltway If you've got the
sider exploring
time or
some
if your visit to
places outside the
west and the Chesapeake Bay to the
more, a look
welcome edifices
at
something
relief to eyes
and
Washington
that's
city.
From
east, there's
is
a repeat trip, con-
the mountains to the
plenty to see. Further-
made of marble
or granite can be a
wearied by the constant onslaught of Washington
office buildings. visitors
not
Washington
Here
are a
few suggestions for day
trips that
can make beyond the Beltway.
Annapolis Maryland's capital for more than 300 years, Annapolis quaint
little
town on the Chesapeake Bay
—
it's
is
more than
a
one of the biggest yachting
i
Excursions beyond the Beltway centers in the United States. Acres
and
acres
of sailboats
steady parade of sailboats moves past the City son, April through late
fall.
You'll see oyster
and old
is
packed with
ington on
US
visitors.
now
The town
nity for well-off Washingtonians.
shops, bars, and jazz clubs.
is
On weekends
The town
is
marinas.
A
that
work
the
sailing ships.
major bedroom
a
69
the sailing sea-
and crab boats
bay, in addition to pleasure boats, cruise ships,
Annapolis has been discovered and
fill its
Dock during
1
commu-
boasts fine restaurants, fancy
during the summer, Annapolis
about a one-hour drive from Wash-
50.
Baltimore Steamed
crabs,
H.
L.
Mencken, the
Orioles,
and the National Aquarium
few of the reasons Washingtonians trek north one hour on a regular basis to this industrial city on the Chesapeake Bay. Washington's visitors have good reason to detour and discover the charms of Baltimore. are just a
Daytrippers can explore the Inner Harbor, dominated by a bilevel
shopping mall
Aquarium
that's
heavy on restaurants and boutiques. The National
and
features a tropical rain forest
a sea
mammal
pavilion
—and
Aquarium in Washington. Kids will love the Maryland Science Center and nearby Fort McHeniy, where Francis Scott Key wrote the national anthem from a ship anchored offshore. If you've got the time, explore some other Baltimore attractions: the B&O Railroad Museum, the Edgar Allan Poe House, and the Babe it's
a
much
larger attraction than the National
Ruth House.
Shenandoah National Park Although Virginia
it
is
makes
for a long day, a drive to
Shenandoah National Park
a treat for outdoors-lovers, featuring
mountain scenery
in the eastern
United
some of
in
the prettiest
A drive along a portion of
States.
the 105-mile-long Skyline Drive takes visitors to a nearly endless series of
mountain overlooks where you can maintained
trails.
get out of the car
and walk on
well-
In early June, the mountain laurel blooms in the
higher elevations, and in the
fall,
bumper-to-bumper
it's
Washingtonians rush to see the magnificent
fall foliage. It's
as
hordes of
about a two-
hour drive from Washington, one-way.
Harpers Ferry National Historical Park This restored nineteenth-century town
doah and the Potomac Rivers natural beauty in equal doses. film about radical abolitionist here, an event that
in
at the
confluence of the Shenan-
West Virginia
At the
offers visitors history
John Brown's 1859
was a precursor
and
you can see a on a U.S. armory
park's visitor center
to the Civil
raid
War. Then you can tour a
renovated blacksmith's shop, ready-made clothing store, and general
170
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
A
store.
short hike to Jefferson
mountain view of three and two
rewarded with a spectacular
Potomac and the Shenandoah). Thomas
rivers (the
from Washington
car
is
Jefferson
view was "worth a voyage across the Atlantic." Luckily, the
said the
by
Rock
(Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia)
states
is
trip
only about 90 minutes.
A Tour of Civil War Battlefields From
the
which ful
number of battlefield
War was
Civil
sites there, it
would seem
that the entire
fought in nearby Virginia, Maryland, and Pennsylvania
nearly the truth. Visitors with an interest in history
is
countryside can tour a
number of Civil War
sites
and beauti-
within a day's drive
of Washington.
Gettysburg, where the Union turned the tide against the South,
about two hours north of D.C. While the overdeveloped town
is
is
a testa-
ment to tourist schlock gone wild, the National Battlefield Park features a museum, a tower that gives sight-seers an aerial view of the battlefield, and many acres of rolling countryside dotted with monuments, memorials, and stone
The
fences.
first
on the
battle
It's
a popular tourist destination
fringe of today's
tlefield
Park
and worth the
drive.
War took place at Bull Run near Manassas, Virginia suburbs. The Manassas National Bat-
of the Civil
features a visitor center, a
museum, and
miles of
trails
on
the grounds.
The Confederate
victory set the stage for the next major battle, at
Antietam, across the Potomac River in Maryland. Antietam National Battlefield, near Sharpsburg,
On
War:
September
is
the site of the bloodiest day of the Civil
17, 1862, there
were 12,410 Union and 10,700
Confederate casualties in General Robert E. Lee's failed attempt to penetrate the
ton,
is 1
North. The 5 miles west
battlefield,
about a 90-minute drive from Washing-
of Frederick, Maryland.
A number of later Union campaigns are commemorated at Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park in Virginia, halfway
between Washington and Richmond. Included fields
nia.
in the
park are the battle-
of Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, the Wilderness, and Spotsylva-
The park
is
about an hour's drive south of D.C.
Helpful Hints
A Worst-case Touring Scenario Here's
how
family
car,
not to
and
visit
arrive
Washington:
around 8 a.m.
On
—
a weekday, load the kids in the
the worst part of rush hour.
Then
battle
your way downtown through bumper-to-bumper
at the
Mall about 9:30, your nerves thoroughly frayed. Waste a half-hour
traffic,
arriving
looking for a parking space before giving up and shelling out $12 for a
.
Helpful Hints
Monu-
space in a parking garage. Next, troop over to the Washington
ment, where a sign
in the
window of the
time-ticket kiosk informs
that the day's allotment of tickets has already been given out.
Museum, where
the National Air and Space
171
you
Then go
to
packed shoulder-to-
it's
shoulder around the most popular exhibits. Later, at the
Museum
National
of Natural History,
pears into the bowels of the paleontological exhibits,
on
agree
a designated
down. At
meeting place,
it
takes
Jimmy
disap-
you
didn't
since
45 minutes
you and your family stagger back
5 p.m.,
litde
and
to track
him
to the car, just in time
to join the afternoon rush hour.
Amazingly, people do
way. Instead of hitting Beltway
and go by
trip
But
this all the time.
it
doesn't have to be this
traffic at 8 a.m., leave a
any suburban Metro station and park. Then
to
train
downtown. You can be up
8 a.m. and pick
at the
half-hour earlier it's
a
20-minute
Washington Monument by
a time ticket while the line
Then
short.
is
pick up
tickets for a tour of the Bureau of Engraving and Printing later in the
morning
at the ticket
booth on Raoul Wallenberg
Place. Next, visit the
Museum. money being printed, eat lunch at the Old Post Office then take the Metro to Dupont Circle. There, you can visit the
National Air and Space After watching Pavilion,
Phillips Collection, a really classy art gallery,
sumptuous
or early evening, get
more
and tour Anderson House, a
mansion. Next, go to the National
active.
when
Zoo
in the late afternoon
the temperature begins to drop and the animals
Eat dinner
near the
at a restaurant
Woodley Park Metro
on Connecticut Avenue and then take the Metro back to your
The no
second scenario takes advantage of
two
car.
things: an early start
and
you
visit
time wasted in traffic or searching for a parking space.
It lets
at a leisurely
pace and gives you the freedom to explore out-of-the-way
and unusual
sights
smart way
to visit
you normally wouldn't take the time
to see.
It's
the
Washington.
Travel Tips for Tourists idea behind visiting any major tourist attraction
The you
can't
do
that if you're getting fatigued or crabby.
ing tips you should review before your
commonsense 1
rules for
visit.
is
to have fun,
Here
They're really
any type of outing:
Drink water. You'll need to drink plenty, especially on hot, humid, sunny Washington afternoons. Dehydration can sneak up on you and cause physical problems which might ruin your vacation plans. So don't hesitate to drink more water than you think
2.
and
some tourno more than
are
you'll need.
Avoid sunburn. Protect sun-sensitive areas of your body. Shade your head and eyes with a hat. Wear sunglasses. Treat exposed skin with a sunscreen lotion
—
especially
your
face.
And if you're wearing
172
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
sandals, don't forget
get a really nasty
your
Pace yourself. Washington
3.
shade and
rest,
You
feet.
don't have to go to the beach to
burn on the tops of your
with good places to
filled
is
feet!
and people-watching
in the
sit
part of the fun. Hunger,
is
overheating, tension from fighting the crowds for hours, fatigue
—
each of these
combine
to
someone
else in
of touring and
realities
produce
kids
fiissy
your party
make an
run a
effort to
little
your behavior. If you and your party rest
in yourself unless
self-check
you
—
not meant to be a
is
peri-
and think about
can't salvage things
and a food break, cut your day short and go back
hotel for a swim, a nap
ton
of them together can adults. You'll notice if
getting unpleasant to be around, but
is
you may not recognize the symptoms odically
all
and grumpy
with a
your
to
or a drink in the bar. Visiting Washing-
test
of your temper and patience,
after
all.
You're here to have fun.
Wear comfortable
4.
This especially goes for shoes
clothes.
broken
that cushion, shoes that are feet too hot.
Wear clothing
in,
shoes that won't
that protects
—
shoes
make your
you from the sun and
per-
mits the air to circulate around your skin and doesn't bind or chafe.
Use food
5.
don't let
strategies. it
dictate
Keep on good terms with your stomach, but your
while touring. Avoid lunch
lot
especially those at overpriced
museum
Travel smart with teens.
6.
Eat a good breakfast before you
trip.
out for the day, then snack a
off
on
their
own
Do
Arrange to meet them
cafeterias.
yourself and
for at least part
them
a favor:
Send them
of a day during your D.C.
at a specific
set
lines,
time and place, and
elicit
visit.
a very
firm and definite understanding about this meeting time and place.
hotel
Give them a watch if they number for emergencies.
GettingTouring Information In
When
don't have one, a
in
map, and the
Washington
1998, a Visitor Information Center opened in the Ronald Reagan
fall
Building and International Trade Center at 1300 Pennsylvania Avenue,
NW.
It's
the place to go for up-to-date information
hotels, restaurants, shops, cultural venues, ter
is
staffed
and
on
attractions,
tourist services.
by knowledgeable personnel and
is
The
cen-
stocked with free
brochures and maps. Also on-hand are interactive information kiosks,
and
visitors
can make hotel and restaurant reservations,
as well as
pur-
chase souvenirs.
The
3,200-square-foot center
is
located
Plaza entrance of the Ronald Reagan
on
street level at the
Building, across the street
Wilson
from the
Helpful Hints
Metro
Federal Triangle
station.
This newest of huge federal buildings (no
jokes, please,
about the name)
phones, and
rooms, and
rest
173
offers
an extensive food court, public
centrally located
is
between the Mall and
downtown. Hours of operation for the Visitor Information Center are
Monday through Saturday, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. The phone number D.C. Chamber of Commerce is (202) DC VISIT.
for the
Designated Meeting Places and groups touring together should designate
Families
a
meeting spot in
members get separated. On the Mall, good places to link up are in front of the Casde (the Smithsonian visitor center) or in front of the domed National Museum of Natural History. The information desks
case
located in
group
most main museum lobbies
Downtown,
separates.
to a scarcity of landmarks.
it's
are logical
A good
Where
for
not to have lunch:
down
the
hill
the
Metro
station.
Lunch
The sidewalk food vendors on
Museum
kiosk in front of the National restaurant
if
designated meeting place would be a
hotel lobby, a department store entrance, or a
A MoneySavingTip
meeting places
easy to lose your sense of direction due
from the
the Mall, the
of Natural History,
and the small
Washington Monument
charge about
a dollar more for a hot dog than the street vendors you see everywhere off the Mall. Unless you're dying of hunger, walk to either Constitution or Independence Avenue, find a street vendor, and save yourself some
dough. The hot dogs, by the way, are pretty good.
Where's the Smithsonian? It's
common
a
question fielded by the folks
who
staff the
information
desk in the Castle, the main visitor center for the Smithsonian Institution (phone (202) 357-2700 or online at www.si.edu). The query is
posed by first-time
the Mall. In
reality,
who
visitors
renowned museum complex
is
have the mistaken notion that the
located in one building
the Smithsonian
is
world-class zoo, scattered around the
a
somewhere along
complex of 14 museums and a
city.
In 2004, the Smithsonian
opened the $110 million National Museum of the American Indian on the Mall. In addition, the Institution operates the Cooper-Hewitt National Design
Museum and
Indian, both located in
when
New
the National
York
City.
Museum
(Some
of the American
folks are also surprised
they learn that the National Gallery of Art and the Holocaust are not part of the Smithsonian complex.) In the list
Memorial Museum below ities
is
by
an alphabetical rundown of the Smithsonian's Washington
location.
facil-
174
Part Six
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
THE SMITHSONIAN'S The National
FACILITIES
Mall
National
Museum American History Museum Anacostia Museum and Center for African
(the Castle) Information
American History and
American Art Museum National Portrait Gallery
Freer and Sackler Galleries
Museum and
Renwick Gallery
Sculpture
Upper Northwest National Zoo
Garden
Museum Museum
National
Center
Downtown
Culture
National
History
Smithsonian Institution Building
Arts and Industries Building
Hirshhorn
Museum of Natural Museum
National Postal
Air and Space
of African Art
of the American
Indian
detoffthe Mall!
A
full
day of traipsing from
museum
to
museum
along the Mall
is
exhausting and, for most folks, a pretty one-dimensional experience. After a while there's
it
grade-school field trip
starts to feel like a
going to be a quiz.
Is
that a vacation?
the day and taking the Metro to any nations, including
Dupont
Or grab
visit
a cab
and
—and,
later,
Snap out of it by breaking up
number of other
Circle, the waterfront,
fascinating desti-
and the National Zoo.
Georgetown, Adams-Morgan, or the Washington
National Cathedral.
A Photography Tip Washington, D.C., with is
its
a photographer's mecca.
impressive memorials and federal buildings,
But
for a really spectacular shot of
downtown
Washington, go across the Potomac River to the Iwo Jima Memorial in Arlington, Virginia. Stand
on the
hill
near the Netherlands Carillon and
look toward the Lincoln Memorial. At dawn, the sun
rises
almost directly
behind the U.S. Capitol. At dusk, the panorama of twinkling includes the Jefferson
lights
and Lincoln Memorials, the Washington Monu-
ment, and, more than two miles away, the U.S. Capitol.
How to
Sneak on a Reservation-only Tour
at the National Archives For the behind-the-scenes tour of the National Archives, most people
weeks in advance for reservations.
and show up
at the
If
you
didn't,
Pennsylvania Avenue entrance (across from Eighth
Street) at tour time. If there's a cancellation or a free reserved tours
no-show, you're
begin at 10:15 a.m. and 1:15 p.m. daily and
an hour and a half
call
however, take a chance
On
in.
last
The
about
the reserved tour, you'll explore the building,
including book stacks, the microfilm viewing rooms, and the exhibits
— Helpful Hints
and models
show how
that
researchers preserve documents.
175
The
tour
ends in the magnificent Rotunda, where the great documents are on display.
For more information,
call
(866) 272-6272.
Getting a Free Pass to a National Gallery of Art Most people call that admit them
or stop by weeks in advance to get free "time tickets" to the wildly popular art exhibits regularly held in the
National Gallery of Art's East Building. is
that
Show
hundreds of
What most
of them don't
know
tickets per half-hour are reserved for folks like you.
Tickets can be picked up any day a
show
is
in progress. Just
show up by
at the ticket counter in the
noon on weekends or by 2 p.m. on weekdays main lobby and come back later in the day to
see the show.
An Informal Georgetown Tour of]FK Residences Structure an informal walking tour around
from the outside statesman once
only, please
lived.
As
a
—
congressman and senator, John
lived in four different houses in
1400 34th
The
last
Street,
address
is
NW;
3271 P
NW.
F.
Kennedy
Georgetown: 1528 31st
Street,
NW;
N
Street,
NW.
Street,
NW;
and 3307
moving to 1600 For more information, call Tour D.C. at
where the Kennedys
Pennsylvania Avenue,
Georgetown by viewing where a great American
a few places
lived just before
(301) 588-8999.
D.C. on the Air Aside from the usual babble of format rock,
country music radio stations,
Washington
is
talk,
home
that really stand out for high-quality broadcasting.
Washingtonians
Format All
news
listen to, as listed
easy listening,
to a
Tune
in to
below:
Freauency
and
few radio stations
StatiorL
what hip
176
Sight-seeing Tips and Tours
Part Six
How to Tell Look
the House or Senate
If
house of Congress
if either,
Mall, the Senate
to the left of the
is
Session
in
for a flag flying over the respective cliamber
determine which,
on the
gress
Is
is
right.
is
At
night, a light
is
of the U.S. Capitol to
From
in session.
the
dome; the House of Representatives burns on top of the Capitol dome if Con-
in session.
Avoiding the Heat on a Sweltering Afternoon
On
hot,
humid D.C.
between
sights; in fact,
all, if is
you can help
it.
afternoons,
it's
you shouldn't
On
imperative to avoid long walks
leave an air-conditioned building at
the Mall, one solution to touring
to visit this trio of museums: the National
Museum
Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, and the Freer Gallery. The
on
first
two museums
are built underground, so they're probably cool even during a
The
ure (dark, too).
three
museums
are
day
a hot
of African Art, the
power
fail-
connected by tunnels, eliminat-
ing the need to venture outside.
More good
choices that will reduce the possibility of heat stroke
include the Corcoran Gallery of Art, the Phillips Collection, and the
National Gallery of each other National
(say,
Museum
treks like a
walk
end of the Mall
7\rt.
Another strategy
Museum
the National
And
of American History).
to the Jefferson
to the other,
is
to visit
museums
next to
of Natural History and the
any ambitious
don't plan
Memorial from the Capitol, or from one
when
it's
scorchingly hot outside.
D.C. after Dark Touring Washington's monuments and memorials
dark offers dra-
after
matic views of both famous marble edifices and Washington night, the Jefferson
and Lincoln Memorials
float in pools
the steps of the Lincoln Memorial, the Eternal'
Kennedy
gravesite
Cemetery.
The
shimmers across the
river
Flame
of
itself.
light;
at the
in Arlington
scene at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial
is
At
from
John
F.
National a
moving
experience as people hold flickering matches up to the reflective black
marble surface, searching for names.
Capitol
Hill:
A
Family Affair
Rather than just getting in line to tour the U.S. Capitol, give yourself
and your kids
a real civics lesson you'll
all
remember: Visit your con-
gressperson or senator.
"Go
to
your member's office and get a pass to see the House and Sen-
ate in session," suggests a
and the kids
will love
it.
guard
at the Capitol. "It's a real experience
And while you're
there, ask for a special tour
the Capitol given by a member's staff person." are across
House
of
office buildings
Independence Avenue from the Capitol building; Senate
Helpful Hints
177
Avenue. Offices are open week-
office buildings are across Constitution
days during normal business hours, and you don't need an appointment. If
you don't know the name of your
your senators'
representative,
offices.
Where the Real Work of Congress Most
visitors
who
speech to a nearly
Check
open
The
scene
empty chamber,
ing a vote. Everyone else
ings
Is
Done
obtain gallery passes to the
are mildly disappointed:
done.
go to either one of
is
is
unless
House
or Senate in session
usually one
member
you happen
to
committee meetings, where the
at
the Washington Post "A" section for a
to the public, along with their time
list
giving a
stumble in durreal
work
is
of legislative hear-
and location (always
in
one
of the buildings near the Capitol).
Another Photo Tip Across from the Mall near the Lincoln Memorial
is
the stately National
Academy of Sciences on Constitution Avenue.
Outside, Albert Einstein's
waiting for you to crawl into
you can have your picture
statue
taken;
is
it's
a
D.C.
its
lap so
tradition.
Speeding through the Ubiquitous Metal Detectors Walk-through metal detectors
staffed
by no-nonsense guards
are stan-
dard equipment in virtually every federal building in Washington, including the U.S. Capitol, the Supreme Court,
speed your
way through, you should
change and keys metal detector,
in
when
visiting
one
dump
avoid the tedious
dozen times.
all
Senate and House
Mall museums, and the National Archives. Men: To
office buildings.
drill
place. it all
get in the habit of carrying
When your turn comes to pass
into
all
one of the bowls provided, and
you'll
of passing through the door-sized detector a
(You'll also find
government
your
through the
half-
out which metal-buckled belt not to wear
buildings.)
Women
your purse on the conveyor that shoots then walk through the detector.
it
have
it
easier: Just place
through the X-ray machine,
— Part Seven
Washington's Attractions
Where Visitors
to
come
Go to
all
Some want
how
different reasons. as
some
over the world
Washington from to see
cynics say, doesn't work); others
tory happened; and
many
are
—and
for a lot
of
the U.S. government works
(or,
where
his-
want
to see the places
drawn by the
city's
magnificent
monu-
ments and museums. It's
tough for a guidebook to decree to such
should spend their time.
Is
a diverse
group where they
the National Gallery of Art better than the
—
Museum? The answer is yes if your interests and tastes range more toward Van Gogh than von Braun. Because we can't read your mind and tell you the top places you
Air and Space
should
visit
on your
trip to
Washington,
we'll
do the next best thing:
give you enough information so that you can quickly choose the places you want to see with enough detail so that you can plan your visit logically
steps
— —without spending
and standing
a lot
of time (and energy) retracing your
in line.
Armed with enough
information to
make informed
choices about
how
spend your valuable time, you can avoid a common mistake a lot of visitors to D.C. make: hitting the Mall for a death march through a blur to
of Smithsonian museums, federal buildings, and monuments.
Time-saving Charts Because of the wide range of attractions in and around Washington from a 500-foot marble obelisk on the Mall to collections of modern art
—we've provided
the following charts to help
at a glance. In the first,
you
prioritize
you'll find attractions listed
by
your touring
type, allowing
you
you don't know its location. allowing you to plan effizone, listed by In the second, attractions are an authors' rating from find you'll each In area. cient touring in a given to locate a particular attraction easily even
if
179
1
80
one
Part Seven
star (skip
it)
Washington's Attractions to five stars (not to be missed),
and
a brief description of
the attraction. (Some, like the Smithsonian's Anacostia doesn't
have permanent collections
change.) attraction
A is
—
weren't
rated
Museum
—which
because exhibits
few of the attractions require advance reservations. Each individually profiled later in this section.
Where
ATTRACTIONS BY TYPE
Historic Buildings
Zone
and Homes (continued)
Jefferson Memorial
monument on
classical-style
Tidal Basin
memorial to
Lincoln Memorial
1
6th president on
I
Reflecting Pool
National
World War
II
tribute to "the greatest generation"
I
Memorial
Old Post Office Tower
a great
Roosevelt Memorial
open-air memorial to
Vietnam Veterans
U.S. soldier
Memorial
Go
(continued)
Description
Attraction
to
view and a food court
FDR
memorial on the Mall
I
I
I
Rating
181
182
Part Seven
Washington's Attractions
ATTRACTIONS BY TYPE Attraction
(continued)
Where
ATTRACTIONS BY TYPE Description
Attraction Parks, Gardens,
and Zoos (continued)
National Wildlife Visitor
to
Go
(continued)
Zone
Rating
183
1
84
Washington's Attractions
Pan Seven
ATTRACTIONS BY ZONE Description
Attraction
Zone
I
National
The National Mall (continued) Museum
of
(continued)
Rating
Where
ATTRACTIONS BY ZONE
Zone
Downtown
3
Go
185
(continued)
Rating
Description
Attraction
to
(continued)
National Geographic
**
high-tech exhibition for kids
Society
National
Museum
Women
in
classical art
by
women
***V2
Foggy Bottom
Zone 4
JFK Center for Performing Arts U.S.
modern and
of
the Arts
Department of
stunning performing arts center on
**
Potomac old-fashioned
museum
of parks, outdoors
Interior U.S. State
Department
Diplomatic Reception
Zone 5
decorative arts; reservation-only
•*•••
Rooms
Georgetown
Dumbarton Oaks and
mansion/museum and
a beautiful garden
*•**
Gardens
Zone
6
Dupont CirclelAdams-Morgan
Christian Heurich
lavish
Guilded Age
home
••*
House Mansion House
of the Temple
Masonic temple modeled on an
Islamic
Center
exotic
ancient
Meridian International
Center Phillips
Collection
wonder
mosque
2 mansions, galleries, gardens
•^ ••1^
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
186
ATTRACTIONS BY ZONE
Northeast (continued)
Franciscan Monastery U.S.
Rating
Description
Attraction
Zone 8
(continued)
National Arboretum
Zone 9
Southeast
Anacostia
Museum
Frederick Douglass
restored church, catacombs, garden
**
444-acre collection of trees, flowers, herbs
**V2
African-American history and culture
N/A
preserved Victorian mansion
***V2
National Historic Site national park for
Kenilworth Aquatic
***
water plants
Gardens Washington Navy Yard
3 military
museums and
U.S.
**i/2
Navy
destroyer; advance reservation only
Zone
Maryland Suburbs
10
NASA/Godard
space
National Cryptologic
NSA
flight
**V2
museum
*
spook museum
Museum
museum on
National Wildlife Visitor
1
**V2
3,000-acre wildlife refuge
Center
Zone
Virginia
1 1
Suburbs
MountVernon
George Washington's
Old Town Alexandria
restored colonial port town
Zone
1:
***** ****
river plantation
The National Mall
Arlington National
Cemetery
Type of Attraction The
largest military
cemetery
in
the United States (Guided and
self-guided tours)
Location Across the Potomac from Washington
via Arlington
Memorial Bridge, which
crosses the river near the Lincoln Memorial
Nearest Metro Station
Admission
Arlington
Cemetery
Free
Hours
Daily, April-September,
Phone
(703) 607-8000
8 a.m.-7 p.m.; October-March, 8 a.m.-5 p.m.
Web site www.arlingtoncemetery.org When to Go Before 9 a.m. in spring and Comments
Special noons;
in
hot weather, get here
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
Grade school
summer
Don't underestimate the ferocity of Washington
*
**
summer
after-
early.
Group |
|
Teens
Young
*** ****
adults
|
Over 30
|
Seniors
**** ****
Zone l:The National
Description and tery
mere
to Allow 2 hours
Comments
sight-seeing; as
men and women John
187
****
Author's Rating Beyond tourism.
How Much Time
Mall
It's
not
Americans, our
to
fair
call
a visit to Arlington National
Ceme-
are too intimately attached to the 200,000
lives
buried here. They include the famous, the obscure, and the unknown:
Kennedy. General George C. Marshall, Joe Louis, Abner Doubleday, and Oliver
F.
Wendell Holmes are among them. include the
Tomb
of the
612
Sights located in the cemetery's
Unknowns (guarded 24 hours
rolling acres
a day; witness the changing of the
guard on the hour from October to March, and on the half-hour the rest of the year),
memorials to the crew of the space shuttle and Arlington House, Arlington
built in
1
802.
Cemetery should be on every To avoid the worst
Touring Tips
Rescue Mission Memorial,
Challenger, the Iran
With the ease of touring provided by Tourmobile, first-time visitor's
of things to see.
list
summer
of Washington's brutal
heat and humidity,
plan to arrive as early as possible. Private cars are not allowed inside, but there's plenty
of parking near the visitor center at $ .25 an hour for the 1
Metro
hour. Take the
instead.
own, the narrated Tourmobile tour feet
—and
at
is
informative and saves
$6 for adults and $3 for children under age
allows you to get off at
all
leave the visitor center
first
three hours, then $2 an
Although you can wander around the cemetery on your
12,
wear and tear on your
it's
a
good
(where tickets are sold) about every 15 to 20 minutes.
touring the Mall by Tourmobile, transferring to the cemetery tour only.
If
is
you want to tour the cemetery by shuttle bus on a different
for another full-circuit ticket Just take the
walk the short distance to the
few bucks.
when
in
If
you're
free for that day
day, don't
pay $20
Metro to the Arlington Cemetery
station,
visitor center,
bathrooms are located
Finally,
ton Cemetery
deal. The ticket
the major sites and reboard at your leisure. The shuttle tours
buy the cemetery-only
ticket,
the visitor center. But don't
and save a
come
to Arling-
you're hungry:There's no place to eat.
OtherThings to Do Nearby
The Pentagon
is
the next stop on the Metro.The Iwo
Jima Memorial and the Netherlands Carillon are about a 20-minute walk from Arling-
ton House (down Custis Walk and through Weiael Gate). The nearest restaurants via the Metro are
Rosslyn and Pentagon City.
in
Bureau of Engraving and Printing Type of Attraction The
presses that print U.S. currency and stamps (Guided tour)
(Temporarily closed to tours per
Location Raoul Wallenberg
Homeland
Security.)
Place (formerly
1
5th Street) and
C
Street,
SW
(2 blocks
south of the Mall)
Nearest Metro Station Smithsonian
Admission
Free
Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. and (May-August only) 5-7 p.m. Closed on
Hours
weekends. The ticket
federal holidays and
opens
at 8 a.m. First
come,
first
office,
October-February, no tickets are required;
A valid allowed. Go to Street.
Phone
ID
required.
is
No
up
at the visitor
entrance on 14th
the 14th Street side of the building to enter.
(202) 874-30 9 or (202) 874-3 88 for a recording 1
1
to
earlier)
and pick up tickets at the ticket
Special
is
line
bookbags, backpacks, or any sharp objects are
When
down
located on Raoul Wallenberg Place,
served and tickets are usually gone by 9 a.m. From
Go
The
earlier,
Comments
into the press
the better During peak season, try to arrive by 8 a.m. (or office.
See "Hours" above.
may have trouble looking over the ledge and rooms below. When the Department of Homeland Security level
elevated to "orange,"
Small children
all
general public tours are cancelled.
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
188
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
Preschool •• Grade school ****
Teens
|
Young
|
•••• ****
adults
Author's Rating After the novelty of seeing plant.
Over 30
|
Seniors
that cash fades,
•••• ****
just a printing
It's
**
How Much Time to Allow early
all
|
fall,
2 hours.
About an hour when the
ticket
system
is
in effect. In
when the line snakes out the front door and up 14th Street, figure on at Count on about 15 minutes for every 100 people ahead of you in line.
Description and
Comments
This
is
the
least
a 35- to 45-minute guided tour through the
rather cramped and elevated glass-lined corridors that go over the government's
immense money and stamp printing plant. Visitors look down and gape at the printing presses that crank out the dough and at pallets of greenbacks in various stages of completion.The sign some wag hung on a press, however, says it all:"You have never been so close yet so far away." Kids love this place, so hitting,
even
if
you're only
Touring Tips spring and
in
town
Arrive early
—
summer, get to the
ticket office distributes
between 9 a.m. and
this
money
tour, contact
is
ticket
When
come back
Raoul Wallenberg Place, where you
30-minute grace period
a tourist site families should plan on
one of
D.C.'s
most popular
if
in
at
ten-minute intervals
tickets are gone, the ticket office closes. After
all
for your tour and
meet near the
ticket office
on
be escorted into the building. You have about a
will
you're running
for sale
attractions. In early
booth before 8 a.m. to avoid disappointment. The
about 80 tickets for every tour starting
1:40 p.m.
picking up your tickets,
of shredded
it's
for a short period.
late.
For a unique souvenir, check out the bags
the visitor center at the end of the tour For a VIP guided
your congressperson's
office at least
Monday through
tours are conducted at 8 a.m.,
two months before your Friday.
trip.The VIP
Bathrooms are located
inside
on Raoul Wallenberg
Place,
the building where the tour begins.
Other Things to Do Nearby the Tidal Basin
is
a short
calming effect of water
As you
walk to the
make
it
exit the building
left:
Benches, tables, a lot of greenery, and the
a great spot to
unwind or eat lunch
boat. And there's a great view of the Jefferson Memorial.
Other
—or
rent a paddle-
sights close at
hand are
Museum, the Washington Monument, the new National World Memorial, and the seven-and-a-half-acre memorial to President Franklin D. Roo-
the Holocaust Memorial
War
II
The $52 million series of gardens, sculptures, and granite walls are located between the Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials along the Potomac River and the Tidal Basin.There aren't a lot of places to eat nearby, however sevelt.
Corcoran Gallery of Art Type of Attraction A museum
that primarily features
American
art
from the
colonial
period to the present (Self-guided tour)
Location
1
7th and E Streets,
Nearest Metro Stations
Admission $7 for families. Free
W
on Mondays and
Hours Wednesday-Monday,
west of the White House
after 5 p.m.
1
on Thursdays.
10 a.m.-5 p.m.;Thursday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m.; closed Tuesdays,
New Year's
Day.
(202) 639-1700 or (888)
Web site
a half-block
for adults, $5 for seniors and students, $3 for students 13-18, and $
Christmas Day, and
Phone
N
Farragut West and Farragut North
www.corcoran.org
Corcoran
(toll
free)
Zone :The National I
When
Go Anytime Comments Free
Mall
1
89
to
Special
45-minute tours are offered
daily at
noon, Thursdays at
7:30 p.m., and Saturdays and Sundays at 10:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
—
Preschool
Teens
|
*
Grade school
Young
|
Author's Rating Art snobs
will feel at
How Much Time
to Allow 2 hours
Description and
Comments
"the best designed building
Mary
Cassatt. and
Winslow Homer, among
Maybe
a distinctly serious
it's
It's
tory.
leisurely
more first-class museum shop. It's
art
—
I
this
beaux arts museum
others. There's also an abundance of cut-
wide range of periods and
in
styles,
like.
not a place to drag
bones
in
little
the National
museum has Sally, who
this
Johnny and
Museum
of Natural His-
excursion, take this Smithsonian staffer's sug-
the Corcoran's stunning cafe. Afterwards, take a
museum and
then
stroll
over to the Renwick Gallery for
some shopping in the Renwick's excellent and you won't be battling laid-back way to spend the day mega-museums on the Mall. The Corcoran's cafe hours are
and, perhaps,
a great,
the crowds besieging the I
It's
museum
with brunch
tour of the art
••• ***
-k-kVi
a big place with a
at dinosaur
For a delightful Sunday
gestion: Begin
Seniors
because of the art school next door, but
atmosphere.
would rather be looking
Over 30
|
Frank Lloyd Wright called
so you're bound to see something you
TouringTips
home.
|
Washington." Inside are works by John Singer Sargent,
in
ting-edge contemporary art.
••
adults **'/2
.
a.m. to 2 p.m. (and 8 p.m.
.
.
on Thursdays). Reservations are suggested;
call
(202)
639-1786.
OtherThings to Do Nearby enter a rain forest: A courtyard
Duck filled
into the Organization of American States and
with palm trees and the sound of
falling
water
awaits you. Walk up the staircase and peek into the opulent Hall of the Americas. The
Octagon, one of the earliest Federal-period houses
in
the United States,
is
a block to
the east; Dolley Madison entertained there after the Brits burned the White in
1814. For lunch, stroll up
around the corner on
G
Another block north
McDonald's.
is
Street, can supply a
sandwich and drink for
Daughters of the American Revolution (DAR) Type of Attraction The 33 period rooms are antiques (Self-guided museum tour and a guided Location
1
776
D
Street,
House
17th Street toward Pennsylvania Avenue. Le Sorbet,
NW, across
from the
less
than $5.
Museum
a cornucopia of decorative arts and tour) Ellipse
Nearest Metro Station FarragutWest
Admission
Hours
Free
Monday-Friday, 9:30 a.m.-4 p.m.; Saturday, 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. The
closed on Sunday, federal government holiday weekends, and for the July.
p.m.,
Guided tours of the period rooms are
available
first
museum
is
2 weeks
in
Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-2:30
and Saturday, 9 a.m.—4:30 p.m. Tours leave approximately every 45 minutes.
Phone (202)879-3241
Web site v/v^w.dar.org When to Go Anytime
1
90
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Comments
Special
the rooms, and only
Expect to do a
two or three
on the
lot of stair climbing
visitors at a
tour. You can't enter
time can squeeze into doorways to peer
inside.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
—
Preschool
Teens •••1/2
|
Grade school
*
Young
|
Author's Rating
A
How Much Time
to Allow 2 hours
Description and
Comments
adults
Over 30 •••1/2
[
**
must-see for lovers of antiques and decorative
railroad spur
was
to transport
built
them to the
predictably enough, emphasizes the role of
women
building site.
museum
a small
rior of a California
adobe parlor of 850, to a 1
display objects in a
in
1910,
is
a
solid marble; a spe-
DAR Museum,
The
silver,
costumes, and tex-
with everyday items out of America's past. From the
filled
replica of a 1775
bedchamber
Oklahoma farm
Massachusetts, to the kitchen of a nineteenth-century
rooms
***y2
throughout American history and
includes fine examples of furniture, ceramics, glass, paintings, tiles. It's
arts.
This beaux arts building, completed
knockout.The huge columns that grace the front of the building are cial
****V2
Seniors
|
context of both time and place. Kids
will
inte-
in
Lexington,
family,
the period
get a kick out of the
four-sided mousetrap that guillotines rodents, the foot-controlled toaster, and the
sausage stuffer that looks
an early nineteenth-century version of a NordicTrack
like
machine.
To make the museum more
attractive to children
period-rooms tour, docents drop kids their parents tour nearby period
off at
accompanying parents on the
the Touch Area on the third floor While
rooms, kids can play with authentic eighteenth- and
nineteenth-century toys and objects, including miniature Chippendale tables and chairs,
powder horns, butter molds, candle snuffers, and flags. The museum and period rooms are sleepers that a lot of visitors to Washington overlook. But for lovers of antiques and decorative arts, the rooms provide visitors an opportunity to view beaureal
tiful
objects
in
authentic period settings.
Touring Tips easy enough to
down D
Finding the entrance find.
Street; the
At
D
is
a bit tough, although the
and 17th (across from the
Ellipse),
DAR
building itself
walk about
half a
is
block
museum and tour entrance is on the side of the building. During the room tours can get crowded, especially on Satur-
busy spring and summer, the period day,
so try to arrive before noon.
OtherThlngs to Do Nearby
Walk up the marble
steps and into the American
Cross building to see the Memorial Windows, reputed to be the largest
windows
still in
their original location (except for
to the sick and wounded. can States building
is
in
churches). Their
Next door to DAR, the lobby
a bit of a tropical paradise;
Red
suite of Tiffany
theme
is
ministry
of the Organization of Ameri-
around back
is
the Art
Museum
of the
Americas, a small gallery featuring art from Latin America and the Caribbean (open
Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; admission
toward Pennsylvania Avenue to
is
free).
Head up
17th Street
find a large selection of restaurants.
Decatur House Type of Attraction One
of Washington's earliest surviving important residences
(Guided tour)
Location 748 Jackson
Place,
Nearest Metro Stations
Admission
Free
NW, across
from Lafayette Park
Farragut West, Farragut North
Zone :The National I
Hours
noon—4
Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday,
p.m. Closed
Mall
191
Mondays and
Thanksgiving and Christmas Days.
Phone
(202) 842-0920
Web site www.decaturhouse.org When to Go Anytime Comments
Special
Overall Appeal by Preschool
involves descending a steep, curving staircase.
Age Group
•
Grade school
Young
|
interesting yet
to Allow
adults
narrow
Over 30
|
**
slice
he hadn't been
If
doubt he
Decatur was
Stephen
killed in a duel,
house
built this
White House. The
in
some
naval
a
bell?)
say he might have
1819 with presidential aspirations
floor
first
**V2
of early Americana.
defeated the Barbary pirates off the shores of Tripoli (ring a 1812.
••
Seniors **!/2
|
hour
I
Comments
Description and
•
Teens
|
*
Author's Rating An
How Much Time
The tour
is
decorated
in
in
war hero who
during the
War
been president.
mind:
of
No
close to the
It's
authentic Federalist style and displays
Decatur's furnishings and sword. The formal parlors on the second floor reflect a later Victorian restyling.
Famous statesmen who resided
in
the building include Henry Clay,
Martin Van Buren.and Edward Livingston.
Touring Tips time. But
it's
you're on a tight schedule, this
If
isn't
the place to be blowing your
an okay rainy-afternoon alternative that gives insight into the early days of
Washington.
OtherThings to Do Nearby
The Renwick Gallery
Avenue; next to
House, where foreign
sylvania
it is
Blair
is
around the corner on Penn-
dignitaries stay.
faces Lafayette Park, frequent site of political demonstrations,
homeless, and predictably
Freer
and Sackler
filled
with statues. Across the street
the White House.
Galleries of Art (Smithsonian
Type of Attraction A museum Location
is
Jefferson Drive at
1
featuring Asian and
2th Street,
SW, on the
American
Decatur House
once home to many
museums)
art (Self-guided tour)
Mall
Nearest Metro Station Smithsonian
Admission
Hours
Phone
Free
Daily, 10
a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.
(202) 357-4880 or (202) 357-1729
(TDD)
Web site www.asia.si.edu When to Go Anytime Special
Comments
This 70-year-old gallery reopened
1993 after a 4V2-year, $26
in
million renovation.
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
Grade school
Group
•
**
Author's Rating Gorgeous ing.
Teens
|
art
on a human
****
How Much Time to Allow
••Vi
Young adults
|
1-2 hours
***
|
Over 30
|
Seniors
•••^2
****
scale in a setting that's not
overwhelm-
1
92
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Comments
Description and natural
Well-proportioned spaces,
and quiet serenity are the hallmarks of
light,
the Mall. And the art?
most important
It's
this
galleries illuminated by
newly renovated landmark on
an unusual blend of American paintings (including the world's
collection of
works by James McNeill Whistler), and Asian
paintings,
sculpture, porcelains, scrolls, and richly embellished household items. Charles Lang Freer, the wealthy nineteenth-century industrialist
who bequeathed
the Smithsonian, saw similarities of color and surface texture
Surrender to the
gallery's tranquility
An underground
Touring Tips
in
this collection
to
the diverse assemblage.
and you may, too.
link
to the nearby Arthur M. Sackler Gallery creates
a public exhibition space, as well as convenient passage between the two museums. Don't miss the Peacock Room, designed by James McNeill Whistler; it's widely consid-
ered to be the most important nineteenth-century interior in an American museum. Once the dining room of a Liverpool shipping magnate, it was installed in the Freer
room was
Gallery after Freer's death. The ornate lection of blue
decades of
dirt
painted by Whistler to house a col-
and white Chinese porcelains. Following a restoration that removed and grime, the room has been restored to its original splendor Free
walk-in tours of the Freer are available every day (except Wednesday) at
Other Things to Do Nearby
The
Sackler Gallery, the National
I
I
Museum
a.m.
of African
Haupt Garden are within a few steps of the Freer Gallery. Directly are the National Museum of American History and the National
Art, and the Enid A.
across the Mall
Museum
of Natural History. Walk up the Mall toward the Capitol to reach the Arts and
Industries Building (closed for renovation), the Hirshhorn
Museum. For
Air and Space day) or the
Old Post Office
Hirshhorn
lunch, take the
Metro to either
Museum, and the National (if it's a week-
L'Enfant Plaza
Pavilion (anytime).
Museum and Sculpture Garden
(a Smithsonian
museum)
Type of Attraction A museum
of
modern
art (Self-guided tour)
Location Seventh Street and Independence Avenue, SW, on the
Nearest Metro Stations
Admission
Hours
Free
Daily, 10
a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day. Sculpture Garden open from
7:30 a.m. until dusk
Phone
Mall
Smithsonian, L'Enfant Plaza
daily.
(202) 633-4674
Web site http://hirshhorn.si.edu When to Go Anytime Special
Comments
The Hirshhorn
is
a lot of people's favorite art
museum on
the
Mall.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
•
Preschool
Grade school
Teens
|
**
Young
|
Author's Rating An outrageous
••• ****
adults
|
Over 30
|
Seniors
••••• *****
collection of twentieth-century art; don't miss
it.
***** How Much Time to Allow Description and
2 hours
Comments
building that houses
it.
Works
by
The art found inside modern masters such
is
often as bizarre as the circular
as Rodin, Winslow
Homer, Mary
Zone :The National I
Cassattand Henry Moore
below
(set
many others.The Mall.
If
you
visit
1
93
the easy-to-walk galleries.The outdoor sculpture garden
line
Mall level) contains
Mall
works by Rodin, Giacometti. and Alexander Caider, among
sculpture offers a refreshing contrast to the marble palaces that line the
only one
modern
art gallery
on your
visit,
make
it
the Hirshhorn.
Touring Tips Guided tours of the Hirshhorn are offered at 10:30 a.m. and noon, Monday through Friday, and at noon and 2 p.m. on weekends. During the summer months, additional docent-led tours are sometimes added. The museum's outdoor cafe is
open for lunch during the summer
OtherThings to Do Nearby
only.
Two nearby museums,Arts and
Industries (closed for
renovations) and Air and Space, offer startling contrasts to the Hirshhorn's treasures. A less jarring
modern
experience may be the National Gallery of Art's East Wing, also featuring
art. The
best bets for lunch are L'Enfant Plaza (on weekdays) and the Old Post
Office Pavilion (anytime).
In
the summer, the Hirshhorn has an outdoor self-service cafe
featuring sandwiches, salads, and great sculpture.
Jefferson
Memorial
Type of Attraction A
classical-style
Independence and the third
monument
to the author of the Declaration of
U.S. president (Self-guided tour)
Location Across theTidaLBasin from the Washington Monument
Nearest Metro Stationi
Admission
Hours Always
L'Enfant Plaza, Smithsonian
—
""""--
Free
^
open; staffed from 8 a.m.-! 1:45 p.m.. except on Christmas Day.
Phone (202)426-6841
Web site www.nps.gov/thje When to Go For the best views, go at night or when the cherry trees along the Tidal Basin are
Special best
in
in
bloom.
Comments
The view from the
steps and across the Tidal Basin
is
one of the
Washington.
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
Grade school Author's Rating
Group
•
Teens |
** A
|
Young
••• ***
adults
favorite^^t-HTgRtTBLhi^ot convenient.
[
Over 30
|
Seniors
••• ***
**i/2
How Much Time to AHo\ Description and
Comment^. The jjebclassical,
reflects Jefferson's taste in architecture.
usually less
Because
crowded than the monuments on the
Touring Tips
Park interpreters
staffing
the
it's
open-air design of this
somewhat
monument
off the tourist path,
it's
Mall.
monument
frequently give talks and can
answer questions about Jefferson and the monument.Visitors can walk to the memorial along the rim of the Tidal Basin from Independence Avenue or along 14th Street,
SW
OtherThings to Do Nearby The Bureau of Engraving and Printing and the Holocaust Memorial Museum are both on 14th Street. In 1997, a $52 million memorial to President Franklin D. Roosevelt opened on a 7.5-acre site located between the Lincoln
and Jefferson Memorials. The Tidal Basin
is
great for paddleboating. L'Enfant Plaza has an
underground shopping mall with many places to eat (but not on weekends, when most of the restaurants are closed).
1
94
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Lincoln
Memorial
Type of Attraction A
memorial to the 16th American president
classical-style
(Self-
guided tour)
Location At the west end of the
Nearest Metro Stations
Admission
Hours Always
Bottom/l^WU
Smithsonian, Foggy
-"^'
_''"
'^~--
Free
"'^"'^"-^
Mall
open. Rangers on duty from 8 a.m.- 1:45 p.m., except Christmas Day. 1
Phone (202)426-6841
Web site www.nps.gov/linc When to Go For the best views, visit in the early morning, at sunset, or at night. Special
Comments
At
west across the Potomac
night, facing
River,
you can see the
eternal flame at John F Kennedy's grave.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
•• Grade school *** Preschool
Author's Rating Both
Description and out a penny Yet a
on the
30 minutes
To
Over 30
|
Seniors
••• ***
***
\
see^at the
Lincoln Memorial looks
soprano Marian Anderson sang here Jr.
gave
his "I
like,
The Legacy
of Lincoln
museum
in
in
1
939
just pull
after being barred
Have a Dream" speech here
Lincoln Memorial anchors the Mall and should be
Touring Tips
|
to this mar^leTrfonument inspires awe. Historic events took place
Constitution Hall; Martin Luther King
The
adults
soleron-iairid sefeni<^
Comments^
visit
steps: Black
Young
|
How Much Time to Allow
••• ***
Teens
|
on anyone's must-see
in
from 1963.
list.
the memorial's basement
is
worth
a
peek. You'll find exhibits about demonstrations held at the memorial and a video
recounting the building's history.The Lincoln Memorial's location at the west end of the Mall near the river, however, puts this
marble
edifice at a distance
except for overpriced Mall hot dog vendors, so eat memorial's ground
first.
from any lunch spots
Bathrooms are located on the
level.
Other Things to Do Nearby
The Vietnam Veterans Memorial and the Reflecting Academy of Sciences science exhibits (open Monday through Friday, 9 a.m.
Pool are directly across from the Lincoln Memorial. The National
on Constitution Avenue features
to 5 p.m.; free). Outside, tourists can crawl into the lap of an Albert Einstein statue to have their picture taken; Franklin D. Roosevelt
it's
opened
a
DC. in
tradition.
between the Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials. 1
A
$52
1997 on a 7.5-acre If
million
memorial to President
site located
you hike
a
on the Tidal Basin
few blocks up 23rd Street or
7th Street, you'll find an alternative to those hot dog vendors.
National Air and Space Type of Attraction A museum
Museum
(a Smithsonian
that chronicles the history of
museum)
manned
flight (Self-
guided tour)
Location
On
the south side of the Mall near the U.S. Capitol
Nearest Metro Statioi^s Smithsonian,
Admission
Hours
L'Enfant Plaza
Free
10 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.
eral budget,
Depending on the shape of the
hours may be extended during the summer.
fed-
Zone l:The National Phone
or after 4 p.m. Because of metal detectors and baggage
checks, waits of up to 20 minutes can occur, especially at opening. at the Mall entrance,
walk around be
there's a long line
If
you could try the Independence Avenue entrance
—but
huge building (and may not be worth the effort because the
this
195
(TDD)
(202) 357-2700 or (202) 357-1729
Web site www.nasm.edu When to Go Before noon
Mall
it's
a long
line
could
just as long).
Special
Comments
make the box
you want to get
If
tickets for the five-story-high
on the main floor your
office
passes; check with the information desk
Overall Appeal by Age
Some
first stop.
ble, try
•••• *****
the main lobby.
in
|
Teens
|
Young adults
to spread your tour of the^jus eum ovgp^ or
Description and ing
Comments
about nine million
museum
This
visitors a year. Entering
is
bergh flew across the Atlantic
The only drawback to
numbing least
after a while.
two
But
visits.
If
in
this
1
a must-see for virtually
in
the
museum, giving
visitors the
the world, draw-
in
of St
Spirit
Louis,
another
is
moon
touch a
Mall, visitors can
which Lind-
full-size
won-
becomes —going every your time here to and anyone— not it,
to
try
exhibit
into at
split
just airplane buffs
space cadets.The newly remodeled ground floor has to exhibits
possi-
it all. If
visits.
size
its
is
won't see
still
927. Everywhere you look
museum
your length of stay allows
it's
Seniors****
|
the most visited
from the
•••••
Over 30
|
more
rock and gaze up at the Wright Brothers' plane and the
der.
theater,
Group
••••• ***** Author's Rating Absolutely not to be missed. ***** How Much Time to Alldw 2 hours minimum—^nd you Preschool
Grade school
MAX
I
special exhibits require
new
chance to
fly
flight
simulators. Five are tied
a World
War
I
plane flown by
Eddie Rickenbacker, Amelia Earhart's Lockheed Vega, and more. At the Einstein Planetarium, the starry sky has been replaced by digital projectors, which transport images
from space and cast them out onto the 70-foot dome.
Touring Tips
If
you don't have an unlimited amount of time to wander around, try
strategy: After leaving the
main lobby, work your way over to Space
Hall,
this
where you can
tour Skylab and check out the Apollo-Soyuz spacecraft For more insight into the exhibits, take one of the free, one-hour guided tours starting at ning at the staying
welcome center
in
away from Skylab, the
exhibits also
worth
moon
0:30 a.m. and
p.m.
I
daily,
rock, and the cafeteria around lunchtime.
hitting early to avoid lines:
that teaches the basic principles of tition for
1
begin-
the main lobby. You can avoid a few major bottlenecks by
"How Things
Three
Fly" (an interactive gallery
Race" (examines the Cold War compe-
flight), "Space
outer space between the United States and the former Soviet Union), and
"Beyond the Limits" (computers
in
Steven F Udvar-Hazy Center (with facts) at Dulles International
633-1000 for
aviation
more
Airport
in
and space). Note: Shuttle service to the new
than 80
more
aircraft
suburban Virginia leaves
and dozens of space
ticket information. Shuttle tickets are $7; admission
Other Things to Do Nearby
times
six is
daily. Call
arti-
(202)
free.
To escape the worst of the crowds, try
a stroll
through the fragrant U.S. Botanic Garden, located a block east of the National Air and
Space Museum. For lunch, the on-site cafeteria and restaurant feature a great view of the Capitol and expensive, run-of-the-mill dining. Best bet on weekdays: L'Enfant Plaza,
where you can dine elbow-to-elbow with Washington bureaucrats mall with a
between
D
wide range of eatehes.The entrance and E Streets.
On weekends
is
in
an underground
south of the Mall on Tenth Street,
and holidays, Capitol
Hill
(with
its
SW
wide array of
1
96
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Old Post Office
restaurants, bars, and cafes) and the
Pavilion are
mer, check out the Hirshhorn Museum's self-service cafe,
with great
good
bets. In the sunn-
where you can dine
al
fresco
art.
National Aquarium Type of Attraction The Location
In
oldest aquarium
in
the United States (Self-guided tour)
Commerce
the basement of the Department of
building
on 14th
Street,
NW Nearest Metro Station Adnnlsslon $5
adults,
Federal Triangle
$4 seniors and
military,
$2 for children ages 2-10
Hours
Daily,
Phone
(202) 482-2826 or (202) 482-2825 (recording)
9 a.m.-5 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.
Web site www.nationalaquarium.com When to Go Anytime Special
Comments A
cool, dark oasis
Overall Appeal by Age
A
Teens
|
Young
|
basement
How Much Time to Allow
of
full
I
••• **
fish
fish tanks.
a
Seniors
|
•• **
^Vi
Essentially a long is
room
not
in
and dolphin emporiums that are springing up
Baltimore). But children will love
aquarium figures as
afternoon.
Over 30
|
adults
the basement of an office building, this aquarium
newer
summer
hour
Comments
Description and
a sweltering
Group
•••• Grade school **** Preschool
Author's Rating
on
it.
lined with big fish tanks in
the same league with other,
over (such as the one
all
Small and lacking crowd-pleasing sea
minor exhibit for
filling in
in
mammals, the
the odd hour or to escape from a swel-
tering afternoon. Otherwise, spend your valuable touring time elsewhere.
Sharks get fed at 2 p.m. on Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday; the pira-
Touring Tips
nhas get their meals at 2 p.m. on Tuesday,Thursday, and Sunday.
Other Things to Do Nearby
The Washington Monument, the National Museum of Pavilion are within a few minutes' walk. The
American History, and the Old Post Office
Commerce Department offers good,
cheap
fare: a
cafeteria,
open Monday through
soup and salad
bar, pizza
Friday
and pasta, a
grill,
from 9 a.m. to 2 a
deli,
p.m.,
and hot entrees.
National Archives Type of Attraction The dence and
magnificent rotunda
where the Declaration of Indepen-
U.S. Constitution are displayed (Self-guided tour)
Location Seventh Street and Constitution Avenue,
NW, on
the Mall
Nearest Metro Station Archives Adnnission Free
Hours
April
I
-Labor Day, Exhibition
March 31,10 a.m.-5:30
p.m.; closed
Hall
open every
day, 10
a.m.-9 p.m.; September-
Christmas Day.
Phone (202)501-5205
Web site www.archives.gov When to Go Before noon or after 4
p.m. during spring and
summer.
Zone l:The National Comments
Special line
is
long.
Small children
may need
a
to see the documents; skip
lift
Grade school
Teens ••'/2
Over 30
|
|
**
***
Young adults
|
A
How Much Time
to Allow 30 minutes
Average Wait
Line per 100 People ahead of You 20 minutes
in
In
addition to trying to decipher the faint and flow-
on the sheets of parchment mounted
through
of Americana.
a
bronze and
in
glass cases, visitors can
temporary exhibit of photos and documents covering various aspects
Most
visitors
seem
as fascinated by the written description of the elabo-
rate security system that lowers the sacred
documents
into a deep, nuclear-explosion-
proof vault each night as they are by seeing the charters themselves even see the contraption. While the 75-foot-high rotunda are surprised at
to see it
how
—but
and
Touring Tips
little
there
you've got to
come back Some
is
later
really
It's
known parchments under
In fact,
If
the
can't
most people there
line
is
a lot
to get
in is
not worth the wait.
documents on
interesting
display in the exhibition areas
certainly easier to read
—than the
bet-
the big dome. For a behind-the-scenes view of the work-
National Archives, arrange to take a reserved tour During spring and
ings of the
summer, four weeks' notice
is
recommended. Or take
a chance and
Pennsylvania Avenue entrance (across from Eighth Street, cancellation or a no-show, you're 1:15 p.m.
—and you
impressive,
advance to arrange a tour
—and
more
is
to see inside this huge building.
call in
visitors say the
outside the rotunda are ter
•••
letdown. -kVz
Comments
Description and
long, skip
the
Seniors***
|
Author's Rating
more
it if
Group
•
Preschool
stroll
197
Use the entrance on Constitution Avenue.
Overall Appeal by Age
ing script
Mall
Monday through
tour, visitors take a
in.
The reserved tours
NW)
at
show up
tour time.
If
at the
there's a
begin at 10:15 a.m. and again at
Friday and last about an hour and a
half.
On
the reserved
tour of the building, including the stacks, microfilm viewing rooms,
and exhibits and models that show
how
researchers preserve documents.
ends at the Rotunda. Oh, and don't miss the
photograph of President Nixon and
Other Things to Do Nearby
gift
Elvis Presley
shop,
where the
embracing.
Pick a Smithsonian
It's
The tour
best-selling item
is
a
a scream.
museum you
haven't seen yet and
the Mall
good restaurants popular with folks who work in the museums along are located across Pennsylvania Avenue from the National Archives on Indiana
Avenue,
NW.
dive
in.
Several
National Gallery of Art: East Building Type of Attraction A museum
housing twentieth-century art and special exhibitions
(Self-guided tour)
NW, on
Location Fourth Street and Constitution Avenue,
Nearest Metro Stations
Admission
Free
Hours Monday-Saturday,
New Year's
the Mall
Archives, Judiciary Square, Smithsonian
Days.
Phone (202)737-4215
Web site www.nga.gov When to Go Anytime
10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday,
I
I
a.m.-6 p.m.; closed Christmas and
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
198 Special
Comments
Usually referred to as the "East
may park
Visitors with disabilities
tory tours are offered daily and
in
last
Wing" of the National
Gallery.
available spaces in front of the building. Introduc-
about an hour; for times,
(202) 842-6247.
call
No
luggage, backpacks, bookbags, or other personal bags allowed.
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
Group
•
Young
|
Author's Rating Even the
building
How Much Time to Allow Description and
Teens
|
**
Grade school
airy,
a great
work
|
Over 30
|
Seniors
••••• *****
*****
of art.
2 hours
Comments
Both the interior and exterior of
designed building are spectacular, so side,
is
••• *****
adults
worth
it's
a visit even
if
this
M. Pei-
I.
you hate modern
the popular 1978 building consists of unadorned vertical planes. Inside,
Out-
art.
it's
bright,
and spacious. Look for art by modern masters such as Picasso, Matisse, Mondrian,
Miro, Magritte, Warhol, Lichtenstein.and Rauschenberg.The exhibits change constantly,
so there's no
telling
Touring Tips
which of these
Occasionally,
is
on
display.
temporary
(such as a Van
exhibits
Gogh show)
are
extremely popular and may require a free "time ticket" that admits you on a certain day
hourYou may pick up such month before a show opens. If you
at a specific
tickets in advance; tickets are available as
as a
don't have a ticket on the day you
Wing, you're not completely out of distribution that day only.
If
luck:
A
gallery,
museum, turn
near the Mall
left
—
it's
The new, more than manent
in
later to see the exhibit.
high, knife-edge exterior
six-acre National Gallery Sculpture
temporary
circle of linden trees.
West
Garden opened
Building. Works
from the
it
you
of shade trees provide
it.
in
the
gallery's per-
exhibits, grace the symmetrical garden,
A variety
its
welcome
the summer, while the central pool serves as a public ice skating rink
(as
When
corner wall of the
almost worn away from people touching their noses to
collection, as well as
and the
of tickets are set aside every day for
come back
and check out the
spring of 1999 on the Mall adjacent to the
tral pool,
much
the East
you want one, arrive at the ticket counter on the main floor
by noon (or 2 p.m. during the week).Then exit the
number
visit
in
cenrelief
the winter
has since the late 1960s).
Other Things to Do Nearby
The West Wing, with
its
more
traditional
European
connected to the East Building by an underground concourse. The Capitol and the U.S. Botanic Garden are close by, as well as the National Archives. The Cascade art,
is
Cafe/Buffet, a cafeteria along the concourse, ing a classy selection of ion,
may be the best
food and an espresso
bar.
official
Mall eatery, featur-
Otherwise, the Old Post Office
Pavil-
the Sculpture Garden's Pavillion Cafe, and L'Enfant Plaza (weekdays only) offer the
best food choices nearby.
National Gallery of Art: West Building Type of Attraction Museum
featuring European and
American
art
from the
thir-
teenth through the nineteenth centuries (Self-guided and guided tours)
Location
Sixth Street and Constitution Avenue,
NW, on
the Mall
Nearest Metro Station Archives
Admission
Hours
Free
Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday,
New Year's
Days.
Phone (202)737-4215
I
I
a.m.-6 p.m. Closed Christmas and
Zone :The National I
Mall
1
99
Web site www.nga.gov When to Go Anytime Special times,
Comments
call
Introductory tours are offered daily and
(202) 842-6247.
usually referred to as the
It's
last
about an hour. For
"West Wing"
of the National
Gallery.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
••• **** Art with a capital "A." ***** •
Preschool
Author's Rating
How Much Time
Teens
|
Grade school **'/2
Young
|
adults
to Allow 2 hours for
|
Over 30
|
Seniors
••••• *****
you could spend a
a light skimming, but
week.
Description and ters such as
to
name
sell
a few. And
Pope.
Comments
This
Rembrandt and Vermeer,
It's
it's all
housed
a world-class art
The Micro
in
where you
find the
heavy
hitters:
Dutch mas-
Monet, and Jacques-Louis David,
museum; first-time
visitors
should make at least one stop.
stations featuring high-tech
computers and 20-
inch touchscreen color monitors, provides visitors with images and information
about
1
,700 paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts; 650 artists; and
Modeled
art-related subjects.
the Micro Gallery
after a similar
with
lets visitors
just
an elegant neoclassical building designed by John Rus-
computer
Gallery, 13
is
plus Raphael,
little
more
system at the National Gallery
in
on
than 530
London,
or no computer experience expand their
appreciation of the gallery's permanent collection. You can even create a personal tour of the
museum and
The Micro Gallery Touring Tips
map showing
print a is
the locations of works of art you've selected.
located on the main floor near the Mall entrance.
Most of the museum's
paintings are
hung
in
many
small rooms, instead
of a few big ones, so don't try to speed through the building or you'll miss
them.
When museum
fatigue begins to set
located between the museum's
many
in,
galleries.
If
rest
your feet
in
most of
one of the atriums
you plan on dragging
kids through this
massive place, try bribing them with a later trip to the National Zoo.
Some temporary
exhibits require a free time ticket that admits
you on a certain day
hourYou may pick up such tickets in advance; they are available as much as a month before a show opens. If you don't have a ticket on the day you want to visit the West Wing, you're not completely out of luck: A number of tickets are set aside every at a specific
day for distribution that day only.
you want one, arrive
If
at the ticket
main floor by noon (or 2 p.m. on a weekday). Then come back
Other Things to Do Nearby
Take the connecting corridor (an underground con-
course) to the gallery's East Building. The Air and Space Mall, while the National
Probably the best Pavilion
Archives are
museum
counter on the
later to see the exhibit.
cafeteria
in
Museum
is
directly across the
the other direction, across Constitution Avenue.
on the
Mall
is
located along the concourse.
The
Cafe at the National Gallery's Sculpture Garden (located next door, across from
the National Archives) has indoor and outdoor seating. Otherwise, L'Enfant Plaza (an
underground shopping mall loaded with restaurants and
fast
food places; weekdays only)
and the Old Post Office Pavilion (anytime) are your best bets for lunch.
National
Museum
of African Art (a Smithsonian museum)
Type of Attraction A museum
specializing in the traditional arts of Africa (Self-
guided tour)
Location 950 Independence Avenue, SW, on the ian Institution building)
Mall near the Castle (the Smithson-
200
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Nearest Metro Station Smithsonian
Admission
Free
Hours
Daily, 10
Phone
(202) 633-4600 or (202) 357-4814 (TDD)
a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.
Web site www.nmafa.si.edu When to Go Anytime Special Comments Provides a quiet jammed; an excellent museum shop.
Overall Appeal by Age
Grade school
Teens |
**
Description and 1987,
Young
|
How Much Time to Allow in
••
are
Over 30 ••Vi
|
adults ifirVi
I
**y2
Seniors
\
**
hour
Comments
new subterranean museum, which museum of Asian art, and separated
This relatively
paired with the Sackler Gallery a
is
attractions
Exquisite sculpture and fascinating household items.
Author's Rating
opened
Mall
Group
•
Preschool
when other
respite
by an above-ground garden. Inside
is
an extensive collection of African art
in
a
wide range
of media, including sculpture, masks, household and personal items, and religious objects.
museum
Intellectually this
transports museum-goers far away from the Mall.
destination for older children, teens, and adults looking for
history and art.This
where
I
I
is
a great alternative
a.m. and
tion of African music
on
jewelry scarves and sashes,
tape,
CD, and
Other Things to Do Nearby Gallery and even connects with ington afternoon.
If
museums good
featuring
cultural
on hot or crowded days
in
Washington.
I
you'll find textiles,
the two
an okay
One-hour guided tours are given at 1:30 p.m. Monday through Thursp.m. on weekends. And don't miss the excellent museum shop,
Touring Tips day and at
museum
It's
some non-European
This it
at
ground
museum
below ground
the weather's mild, level.
wood
carvings, and a
wide selec-
video.
stroll
Neither
is
—
twinned with the Arthur M. Sackler a nice feature
on a sweltering Wash-
the Enid A. Haupt Garden, which separates
museum
has a cafeteria; the closest places
selections and reasonable prices are L'Enfant Plaza (weekdays) and the
Old Post Office
Pavilion (anytime).
National Museum of American History (a Smithsonian museum) Type of Attraction An rience
—
historical, social,
Location
1
extensive collection of artifacts reflecting the American expe-
and technological (Self-guided tour)
4th Street and Constitution Avenue,
Nearest Metro Stations
Admission
Hours
NW, on
the Mall
Smithsonian, Federal Triangle
Free
Daily, 10
a.m.-5:30 p.m.; extended
summer hours depend on budget
restraints.
Closed Christmas Day
Phone
(202) 633-1000 or (202) 357-1729
(TDD)
Web site http://americanhistory.si.edu When to Go To avoid the worst crowds, visit before Special
Comments
to see
in
it
noon and
after 3 p.m.
The immensity of this museum almost demands more than one visit.
that visitors try
Zone l:The National Overall Appeal by Age
Teens
|
Young
|
A
How Much Time
to Allow 2 hours on
Description and
Comments
three stories high that shows
how
large
It
we mean it
a
steam locomotives,
week
to see
Model T Ford,
a
the earth rotates, a collection of If
you
can't find
it all.
ball
a
pendulum
gowns worn by
something of interest here, you
offers viewers a dizzying array of history, nostalgia, tech-
a must-see for virtually
it. It's
At most museums, you look
—make
*****
it.
would take
at
stuff,
all
—and to
visitors.
but a lot of the collection at Amer-
arranged so that viewers can learn about people
To see what
museum
it
resuscitation. For a lot of people, this ranks as their favorite
nology, and culture. And kids love
times.
a first pass;
•••••
Seniors*****
|
Three exhibit-packed floors feature such treasures
and Archie Bunker's chair
may need mouth-to-mouth Mall museum. No wonder:
is
Over 30
|
collection of national treasures; don't miss
as the original Star-Spangled Banner,
ican History
••••• *****
adults
Author's Rating
TouringTips
201
Group
••• Grade school **** Preschool
First Ladies,
Mall
in
help you organize yourself
the context of their bewilderingly
in this
a point to see these exhibits: the First Ladies' Exhibition; Field to
Factory (about the migration of Southern rural African Americans to northern
and a collection of objects about television that includes Archie Bunker's jacket,
one of
Mr
cities);
chair, Fonzie's
Rogers' sweaters, Oscar the Grouch (of Sesame Street fame), and for
baby boomers, some items from the Howdy Doody Show. Check at the information desk for a schedule of tours (usually at
a.m. and
1
tures, films, and other activities put
people touring the
museum on
I
p.m. daily), demonstrations, concerts, lec-
on by the museum
their
own overlook
staff.
museum's east wing, which features an excellent collection of cles.
Car aficionados
Life exhibit,
will
love
it.
Kids (and
most
final hints:
cars, trains,
the
in
American
Within a short walk are the Washington Monument,
Museum
of Nat-
History.Almost directly across the Mall are the Freer and Sackler Galleries and the
National ria
lot of in
Hands-On History Room.
the National Aquarium, the Old Post Office Pavilion, and the National ural
A
and motorcy-
adults) enjoy the Science
the Hands-on Science Center, and the
Other Things to Do Nearby
Some
the Hall of Transportation
Museum
and an
ice
National
of African Art. And, yes, the American History
Museum
(a Smithsonian
artifacts in the
of the American Indian
of the largest and
most diverse
collections of Indian art and
world (Self-guided tour)
Location Fourth Street and Independence Avenue,
Museum and
SW (one the
Mall
between the Air
the U.S. Botanic Gardens)
Nearest Metro Stations
Admission
has a cafete-
museum)
Type of Attraction One
and Space
Museum
cream parlor
Federal Center, L'Enfant Plaza
Free; timed passes required (available at the east entrance)
Hours
Daily, 10
Phone
(202) 633-1000 or (202) 357-1729
a.m.-5:30 p.m. Closed Christmas Day.
(TDD)
Web site wv/w.americanindian. si.edu When to Go Free timed passes are required
and available at the east (Capitol-side)
entrance for that day only; the ticket office opens at 10 a.m. and distribution
is
to 6 passes per adult. A limited
call
number
of passes can be reserved by phone,
400-NMAi (6642) or go to the museum's Web
site (above).
A
limited
(866)
service charge applies.
202
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Special
Comments
museum;
for example
your pass
for noon,
is
How Much Time to Allow (which opened
wait
Comments
we were and
Indian art
museum
sits
unable to tour
artifacts,
million
it.
But
it
2:30
museum opened
after
the Mall levels
Touring Tips
Officials
visiting in
expect the
and
we went to
promises to be a blockbuster that showcases
meadowlands and croplands.
it
museum on
and features four
and creates a sense of Native place, culture and
forest, wetlands,
before
1
to get passes and enter the
diversity.
a 4.25-acre site with natural rock formations and native plants set
on
Unless you're
in line
Smithsonian's newest
The
250,000 square feet of exhibition space. Because the press,
to enter the
1-2 hours.
September 2004) cost $219
in
window
you can enter between noon and
Museum officials predict that the maximum museum will be 30 minutes each. p.m.
Description and
a 30-minute
The time passes provide if
museum
The in
a
to attract a record numbers of visitors.
the winter, plan to arrive at the ticket office at least 30 minutes
at 10 a.m. (the earlier the better).
opens
The Air and Space Museum and U.S. Botanic Garden door and the National Gallery of Art is across the Mall. Food options include the museum, L'Enfant Plaza (weekdays) and the Old Post Office Pavilion food
Other Things to Do Nearby are next a cafe
in
court.
National
Museum
of Natural History
(a Smithsonian
museum)
Type of Attraction
America's treasure chest of the natural sciences and
human
cul-
ture (Self-guided tour)
On
Location
the Mall at Tenth Street,
Nearest Metro
Admission under age
Hours
NW,and
Constitution Avenue
Stations Smithsonian,Archives, Federal Triangle
Free;
IMAX
admission
is
$8 adults and $6.50 for seniors and children
1
Daily, 10
a.m.-5:30 p.m.; open
until
8 p.m. during the
summer months;
closed
Christmas Day.
Phone
(202) 633-1000 or (202) 357-1729
Web site www.mnh.si.edu When to Go Before noon Monday-Friday
at
(TDD)
and after 4 p.m. Free weekday highlight tours are offered
10:30 a.m. and
1:30
p.m (except
July
and August). Meet
in
the
rotunda.
Special
Comments
In
the recently renovated Discovery
Room,
kids ages
4 years
and up can touch nearly everything. Hours are Tuesday-Friday, noon-2:30 p.m.; weekends, 10:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Make the popular Discovery Room your first stop and pick up free time
your
tickets;
tour the rest of the
museum and
return at the time stamped on
ticket.
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
Grade school
•••• ••***
Author's Rating The
gem make
this
museum
How Much Time you could
easily
Group Teens
|
|
Young
displays of
a classic.
••••'/a
adults
**•*•
huge dinosaur
fossils
|
Over 30
|
Seniors
••••• ••••*
and the world's best known
****!/2
to Allow 2 hours
is
spend an entire day here.
enough time to see the
really
cool
stuff,
but
Zone l:The National Comments
Description and bull
elephant
Distinguished by
Museum
the rotunda, the
in
Its
dome and
golden
of Natural History
is
a
203
Mall
the towering
Washington landmark.
It's
also a bit old-fashioned, with long halls filled with dioramas, display cases, and hang-
ing
specimens that
reflect the Victorian obsession with collecting things. This
along with Air and Space across the Mall,
is
immensely popular with
families,
museum, and for
a
—
good reason folks of all ages and tastes will find fascinating things to see here. In September 1997, the Janet Annenberg Hooker Hall of Geology, Gems, and Minerals opened, showcasing the museum's world-class gem and mineral collection. It's part of a still-ongoing $8.5 million
nature
specializing in
films.
museum
The gem
renovation, which includes an
graphics, film and video presentations, and hands-on exhibits.
Hope Diamond,
carat
crystals, a
IMAX
theater
features interactive computers, animated
hall
addition to the 45.52-
In
the space features meteorites, emeralds, a 23,000-carat topaz,
walk-through mine, a re-creation of a cave, and a plate tectonics gallery
showing how the
earth's surface shifts.
A new mammal mammalian
premiered
hall
2003, with state-of-the-art-dioramas explaining
in
evolution, and hands-on activities that hold kids' interests.
Touring Tips
After entering through the big doors at the Mall entrance, bear right
to see the dinosaur skeletons. Then ascend to the second floor to gaze upon the sup-
Hope Diamond and
posedly cursed
to explore the
gem
hall. If
you're not put off by
crawling critters, stop by the Insect Zoo, which features a wide array of cial
exhibits are located
on the ground
Other Things to Do Nearby
level
bugs. Spe-
(live)
(Constitution Avenue entrance).
The National Museum
of American History
is
next
door; across the Mall are the Hirshhorn Museum, the Arts and Industries Building
Museum
(closed for renovations), the leries;
lunch
the National Archives is
in
museum on
Avenue,
overpriced:
is
find a street vendor,
convenient choice for
served
in
Location At
II
7th Street,
Nearest Metro
Admission
front of
the National Mall to the 16 million Americans
War
II
(Self-guided tour)
NW and^he Mall, between the Washington Monument and --,
^
the Lincoln Memorial
in
you crave a hot dog, walk over to Constitution
Memorial
uniform during World 1
If
and save a buck.
Type of Attraction A Memorial on
Hours
A
the National Gallery Sculpture Garden. The fast-food kiosk the Mall
National World War who
of African Art, and the Sackler and Freer Gal-
across Constitution Avenue.
the Old Post Office Pavilion, about a block away on 12th Street or the Pavilion
Cafe, located
the
is
>^
Statioui Smithsonian j
Free
^---~_____-^
Park rangers on
site
each day except Christmas Day. The
monument may be
closed during July 4th celebrations.
Web sites vvww.wwiimemorial.com and wv/w.nps.gov/nv/wm When to Go Anytime (except inclement weather) Special
A
Comments
limited
number
Clean,
modern
rest
rooms
are located behind the visitor center.
of handicapped parking spaces are available.
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
Group
•
Teens
••
**
|
Young
Author's Rating Impressive, but hot
How Much Time to Allow
in
adults
ifkVi
\
Seniors
the sarhe ballpark as the
30 minutes to an
••• *****
Over 30
|
|
Grade school
FDR
Memorial.
**V2
204
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Comments
Description and
memorial, dedicated
war
human
in
history
The
May 2004, for
in
(it
50
killed
"greatest generation" gets
its
contributions
due
in this
new
honor the more than 400,000
soldiers
the conflict. The assemblies of white granite surround a large pool, foun-
who
died
tains
and a piazza located
in
Touring Tips the day. Clean,
—
its
winning the most devastating
million people). Two 43-foot arches, a 17-foot pillar
for each state and territory and 4,000 gold stars
Mall
in
in
a spectacular setting.
the summer, go
In
modern and
the morning or evening to avoid the worst heat of
in
rooms
air-conditioned rest
—
commodity on the
a scarce
are located behind the visitor center (on the Pacific pavilion side of the memorial).
Other Things to Do Nearby
You're
in
the heart of tourist Washington. The Lin-
Monument and the Vietnam by. The Smithsonian museum complex is on the other
coln Memorial, the Washington
Veterans Memorial are
close
side of the
Monument.The Bureau ial
are on
1
Washington
of Engraving and Printing and the National Holocaust
5th Street, south of the Washington
Tidal Basin, across Independence
Avenue
Monument.The FDR Memorial
Memoris
on the
(to the south).
The Octagon Type of Attraction One
of the
first
homes
great
Washington; a
built in
museum
showcasing American architecture and historic preservation (Guided tour)
Location
1
New York Avenue, N
799
W
Nearest Metro Station FarragutWest
Admission $5
Hours
for adults; $3 for students and seniors
Tuesday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.; closed Mondays, Thanksgiving, Christmas and
New Year's
Days.
Phone (202)638-322!
Web site www.archfoundation.org/octagon When to Go Anytime Special
Comments One
long staircase leads to the second-floor exhibition gal-
leries.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
•
Preschool
Grade school
First
••
adults **i/2
I
mostly swamp),
first
This elegant building
now
in
how
is
history.
where President James Madi-
2. Built in
1
80
1
hall
underwent
are original.
British
(when Washington was
the upper crust lived
the entrance
galleries displaying
a
$5
million, six-year
in
rooms on the
the early days of
The former bedrooms
temporary exhibits on architecture and
design.
Interpreters give half-hour tours of the building that provide additional
—and
glimpses into the past
tell
fascinating anecdotes
early days. For example. President
war
Washington
the American Architectural Foundation. Period
Washington; the coal stoves
TouringTips
1
this early Federalist building recently
owned by
floor offer visitors a glimpse of
upstairs are
Seniors **i/2
Lady Dolley Madison took up temporary residence after the 1
it's
Over 30 ••^/i
|
hour
Comments
burned the White House during the War of 8
renovation;
|
interesting, yet narrow, slice of early
• •1/2 How Much Time to Allow son and
Young
\
Author's Rating Another
Description and
Teens
|
irVi
that had driven him from the
about the building and the
city's
Madison signed the Treaty of Ghent, which ended the
White House,
in
the upstairs parlor. Later the build-
Zone l:The National
205
Mall
and was subdivided into ten apartments before
ing served as a girls' school
acquired by the American Architectural Foundation
Other Things to Do Nearby
in
The Corcoran Gallery
Renwick Gallery and the White House are
was
it
1899.
also close by.
of Art
is
Walk up
The
a block away. 1
7th Street for a
selection of fast-food places and restaurants.
Old Post Office Tower and
Pavilion
Type of Attraction A multi-ethnic food court in a spectacular architectural setting; home of the second-best view in Washington; trendy shops (Guided tour of the tower) Location
1
2th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue,
Nearest Metro Station
Admission
Free
Hours During
the summer,
and Sunday, noon-7 p.m. p.m.,
NW
Federal Triangle
In
stores are open Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m.,
retail
the winter, stores are open Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-7
Summer food
and Sunday, noon-6 p.m.
court hours are Monday-Saturday, 10
a.m.-9 p.m., and Sunday, noon-8 p.m.; the food court closes an hour earlier the rest of the year
From
Easter Sunday through Labor Day, the tower
the rest of the year
Phone
it's
open
crowds
Special
open 8 a.m.- 0.45 1
p.m.;
(202) 289-4224 or (202) 606-869! for the tower
Web site v»/v^w.nps.gov/opot When to Go Anytime to take of the
is
10 a.m.-5:45 p.m.
in
the glass elevator up the clock tower; beat the worst
the food court after
I
p.m.
Comments
This is the place to come when they run out of time tickets at Monument.The food court is a favorite stop for tour buses, making it
the Washington difficult at
times to find a table.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
••• Grade school **** Preschool
A
Author's Rating
crummy food served
Young
|
•••• ***
adults
great view and a lifesaver for tourists in
most museums.
How Much Time to Allow Description and
Teens
|
I
|
Over 30
|
Seniors
who
••• ***
hate the overpriced,
***V2
hour for the clock tower
Comments
This fine old building, a Pennsylvania Avenue land-
mark, was slated for demolition, but preservationist groups intervened to save
it.
Today,
the 3 5-foot clock tower offers a spectacular view of Washington, while the multi1
ethnic food court occupies a stunning, glass-roofed architectural space ten stories high. It
offers a
complete tourist experience for people of
large plate glass
windows, not
food, and a shopping mall. Pavilion
is
tiny
windows
And with
its
like at
all
ages: a
view to
kill
for (through
the Washington Monument), great
proximity to the Mall and White House, the
a convenient place to visit for a quick lunch or snack.
Touring Tips It's elbow-to-elbow in the small elevator to the observation deck. Beware of clumps of screaming teenagers in the food court it's a popular destination
—
for school groups. To reach the glass-enclosed elevators to the observation deck, go to
the patio area
tower are
in
the food court.
The National Park
Service rangers on duty
a great source of advice about D.C. touring. Ask
one to show you the
in
the
lay
of
the land from the observation deck.
Other Things to Do Nearby
Make
faces at the groupers
in
the National Aquar-
206
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Museum, or
ium, stop by the International Spy thing
good to eat
in
the food court,
Renwick Gallery
it's
Ford's Theatre.
visit
If
you
can't find any-
time to go home.
(a Smithsonian museun))
Type of Attraction A museum
dedicated to American crafts and decorative arts
(Self-guided tour)
NW
Location 17th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, White House)
(diagonally across
from the
Nearest Metro Station FarragutWest
Admission
Free
Hours
Daily, 10
Phone
(202) 633-2850 or (202) 357-1729
a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.
(TDD)
Web site http://americanart.si.edu/renwick When to Go Anytime Comments
Special
Don't expect an exhibition of hand-woven basketsiThe
museum
features a wide array of mixed-media sculptures, tapestries, and constructions by major
contemporary
artists.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
•
Preschool
Grade school
Teens
|
**
Young
|
Author's Rating An elegant
setting, yet a bit dull.
How Much Time to Allow Description and the mansion
make
on
museum worth
a first-time visit to Washington
TouringTips
On
the same floor
is
first
Other Things to Do Nearby you
in glass,
can't get
oil
**
a stop
you're near the White
when
ceramics,
wood, fiber, and
paintings, velvet curtains,
in,
Room, which
floor hosts
temporary
metal. But
it.
Next door
is
Blair
now an
and traditional
furni-
faces the street and
is
exhibits.
House, where
visiting foreign dig-
but look for Secret Service agents and diplomatic limos.A
plaque on the wrought-iron gates honors a guard
would-be
Seniors **!/2
or with children should skip
the elegant Octagon
used as exhibition space. The
nitaries stay;
|
Glide up the Grand Staircase to enter the elegant Grand Salon,
art gallery featuring floor-to-ceiling ture.
Over 30 ••1/2
Both the art and the Second Empire architecture of
Smithsonian
House. Works on display are constructed folks
|
hour
I
Comments this
•• **
adults
assassin. Around the
who
corner on 17th Street
saved President Truman from a
is
the closest McDonald's to the
White House.
Franklin
Delano Roosevelt Memorial
Type of Attraction A
7.5-acre, open-air
memorial to the 32nd president of the
United States (Self-guided tour)
Location West Potomac
Park,
Nearest Metro Station The brisk,
between the Tidal Basin and the Potomac River Smithsonian (Independence Avenue exit)
30-minute walk away. Other Metro stations even
tom and Arlington Cemetery
Admission
Hours
(across Memorial Bridge
less
in Virginia).
Free
Staffed daily, 8 a.m.-midnight,
is
about a
convenient are Foggy Bot-
except on Christmas Day.
Zone l:The National
207
Mall
Phone (202)426-6841
Web site www.nps.gov/fdrm When to Go Anytime, except
FDR Memorial
during inclement weather; the
is
not
enclosed.
Special
Comments
may
it
find
difficult
to
Nearest metro station are located along are
East
in
FDR
Folks old enough to have voted for
the memorial; nearby parking
visit is
Ohio
about a
mile.
Potomac Park under the at the
and disabled people
scarce and the walk from the
and sixty unmetered parking spaces
SW, eastbound, and three
Drive,
one van space are located
One hundred
is
with a total of 247 spaces
lots
14th Street bridges. Five hantlicapped spaces and
main entrance to the memorial on West Basin Drive.
Except at off-peak times (before noon on weekdays and evenings), competition for the spaces is fierce. Other options for reaching the memorial include cabs and a water taxi.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group Teens ••1/2
Preschool ••'/2
Young
|
Author's Rating Washington's newest tory, texture,
Over 30 •••'/2
|
|
•**
Grade school
adults
***
presidential
Seniors
|
memorial successfully blends
drama, nostalgia, landscaping, and flowing water. The result
and inspiring memorial to America's best-loved twentieth-century
How Much Time
to Allow 30 minutes to
Description and
Comments
I
•••*
leader.
is
his-
a dramatic
***i/2
hour
Unlike the nearby imposing marble edifices to Lin-
coln and Jefferson, the $52 million
FDR Memorial on
the Tidal Basin
tells a story;. In
four open-air, interconnected "rooms" ("enclaves" or "tableaus" might be better words) that represent each of Roosevelt's four terms, his
words are carved on
granite walls,
bronze images depict the alphabet-soup of programs and agencies he created to help millions of Americans devastated by the Depression, and statues depict the average cit-
izens
whose
he touched.
lives
the days before television to Americans
statue.The president as he
is
approaches the
room
greatest
first
a time
a man listening intently to when FDR's strong and vibrant
a radio, evoking
voice gave hope
"fireside chats."
in his
Roosevelt himself
fourth
One shows
—and
represented
is
seated, his final
in
the third
body wrapped
year of
his
life.
in
room
a larger-than-life bronze
in
a cape, his face lined with weariness
His Scottish terrier Fala
is
at his feet.
The
features a statue of Eleanor Roosevelt, widely regarded as America's lady for her services as a delegate to the United Nations and as a
cham-
human rights.This is the first memorial to honor a presidential wife. Many elements work in harmony to make the memorial a success. Textures of South Dakota granite, brick, rough wood, and falling water combine with ornamental pion for
plantings and shade trees to create the
imposing structure. This ures of
FDR
is
ambience of a secluded garden rather than an
not a "hands off" memorial; The
and Mrs. Roosevelt, as well as statues of
five
slightly-larger-than-life fig-
men
and a rural couple outside a barn door, are placed at ground drape an arm around the join the
men
in line
first lady, sit in Franklin's lap as
in
an urban bread
level.
line
Visitors can easily
he delivers a fireside chat, or
for a souvenir snapshot. The memorial's
many
waterfalls
(FDR con-
sidered himself a Navy man) attract splashers with stepping stones while kids enjoy
words "I hate war." As seem to enjoy themselves.
climbing on giant, toppled granite blocks inscribed with the
new memorial, both young and
old,
a
result, visitors to
the
Touring Tips
While you can enter the memorial (dedicated in May 1997) from official entrance so you can stroll through the
either end, try to start your tour at the
outside
rooms
in
chronological order. That's not a problem
if
you're walking to the
208
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
memorial from the Lincoln Memorial. But
folks trekking
from 14th Street and the
Jef-
ferson Memorial should resist the temptation to enter the memorial by continuing
along the Tidal Basin and entering at the Information center and bookstore. Rest are located at both entrances.The memorial
is
impromptu
a nice spot for an
rooms
picnic by
the water, so bring a lunch.
Other Things to Do Nearby
The
Korean War, and Jefferson Memorials
Lincoln,
wear comfortable walking shoes and keep
are relatively close; just
in
mind that
dis-
tances along the Tidal Basin and Mall are deceiving. The Bureau of Engraving and Printing
Museum
and the Holocaust Memorial
are located on Raoul Wallenberg Place, on
the east side of the Tidal Basin just beyond the Jefferson Memorial; both require picking
up time tickets during the spring and summer (year-round
at the
Holocaust Museum).
Hungry? Pack a lunch. The Holocaust Museum has a small cafe with a limited selection and
is
the closest place to grab something to eat. During
warm
weather, paddleboats
are available for rent on the east side of the Tidal Basin, and a water taxi service shut-
along the Potomac River from
tles tourists
rooms are
available at the National
I
a.m. to 6 p.m.
I
World War
Monument and
the Lincoln Memorial.
The Arthur
tA.
daily.
modern
rest
museum)
Sackler Gallery (a Smithsonian
Type of Attraction A museum
Clean,
Memorial, between the Washington
II
dedicated to Asian art from ancient times to the
present (Self-guided tour)
Location
1
050 Independence Avenue, SW, on the
Mall near the Castle (the Smithson-
ian Institution building)
Nearest Metro Station Smithsonian
Admission
Free
Hours
Daily, 10
Phone
(202) 633-4880 or (202) 357-1729
a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.
(TDD)
Web site wv/w.asia.si.edu When to Go Anytime Special
Comments A
when other
quiet respite
Mall attractions are
jammed with
visitors.
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
Group
•
Teens
••
Over 30 ••1/2
|
|
Grade school
**
Young
|
Author's Rating Fabulous and exotic
How Much Time to Allow Description and
I
adults **i/2
art.
Seniors
|
**y2
**V2
hour
Comments
Descend through
a granite-and-glass pavilion to
view a collection of Asian (mostly Chinese) treasures, many of them made of gold and encrusted with jewels. The Sackler
is full
of exotic stuff that
children, teens, and adults. Barring a strong interest visitors
on
in
will
catch the eye of older
the Orient, however, first-time
a tight schedule should visit the Sackler another time.
Touring Tips
Stop at the information desk and ask about the guided tours offered
throughout the day.The
gift
games, Zen-rock garden
shop
kits,
is
an exotic bazaar, featuring paintings, textiles, ancient
and plenty of other Asian-influenced items. Free walk-in
tours are offered daily (except Wednesday) at
Other Things to Do Nearby
The
Sackler
I
I
is
a.m.
connected with
its
twin, the
Museum
Zone l:The National
—
of African Art, below ground, so that's the logical next stop
hot outside. A
blazingly
Sackler
None
of these
new underground museums offers a Old Post Office
Plaza (weekdays) or the is
especially
209
Mall
if it's
rainy
or
corridor connects the Freer Gallery to the cafeteria, but that's okay:
Try either L'Enfant
Pavilion (anytime).The only remaining
problem
deciding what to eat.
Hl Smithsonian
Institution Building (the Castle) Information desks and displays, and a continuously running movie
Type of Attraction
that introduces visitors to the vast
Location
number
000 Jefferson Prive, SW,
1
Nearest Metro
Admission
of Smithsonian
museums.
oi><;he Mall
Staticj^ Smithsonian
"^--^
Free
Hours
Daily,
Phone
(202) 633-1000 or (202) 357-1729
9 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.
(TDD)
Web site www.si.edu When to Go Anytime Author's Rating
A
must i6rfirsi^tJrn#
How Much Time to Allpw
Mall visitors.
30 minuted
****
\
—
—
Description and Comrr^ents This red Brick building you can't miss it contains no exhibits.The Castle served 4s an informcition center that will help you save time and trouble and reduce the frustration that comes from visiting the Smithsonian's large and perplexing film.
It's
talk to
Step into one of the two theaters to see the 20-minute good idea of what each museum has to offer.Then you can
museum complex.
a bit long but gives a
someone
at the information
multilingual assistance).
A
nifty
museums on the
each of the
map
desk for exhibit
Mall, as well as
specific directions
on the east
and advice (including
up the location of
wall lights
other popular D.C.
sights,
when you
press
the corresponding button.
US, Holocaust Memorial Museum Type of Attraction A museum and memorial tion and
murder of 6
million
presenting the history of the persecu-
Jews and others by Nazi Germany during World
War
II
(Self-guided tour)
Location 100 Raoul Wallenberg Place, SW (formerly 15th Street), near the Mall between the Washington Monument and the Bureau of Engraving and Printing. Entrances are on Raoul V^attenbergPfe^e and 14th Street
Nearest Metro Station Smithsonian^(lndependence Avenue
Admission
Hours
exit)
Free
Daily 10 a.m.-5:30 pjTrTclosed Christmas
Day andYom
Kippur.
Phone (202)488-0400
Web site vAvw.ushmm.org When to Go After favorable publicity generated the spring of 1993, the Holocaust long lines at ting in line
day only).
its
no
If
permanent
crowds following
in line
its
opening
in
opens
at 10 a.m., plan
on
get-
be sure of getting a ticket (which are given out for that
you want to be sure of getting on
Comments
large
to a "time ticket" system to eliminate
exhibits. While the ticket office
later than 9 a.m. to
summer months, get Special
Museum went
a
morning tour during the busy spring and
by 8:30 a.m. For advance tickets,
According to Holocaust Museum
call
(800) 400-9373.
officials,
the main exhibit
is
210
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
inappropriate for children under age
the museum's
tors ages 8 and older
I
I
"Daniel's Story:
first floor,
—and we
agree. However, a special exhibit
Remember
No
ordered
advance through Tickets,
exhibitions. Tickets can also be
com.
400-9373; or order online at www.tickets.com.
Preschool —
Teens |
*i/2
and grim
—and
Young
|
Author's Rating As
its
•• ***
message about the
packs an emotional punch that ipaynet fitjome
How Much Time toAllo>Y
Over 30 •••1/2
|
adults
Seniors
|
designers intended, the Holocaust
delivers a stern
Description and
in
Group
Overall Appeal by Age
Grade school
on
visi-
tickets are required for the special,
nonpermanent Call (800)
designed for
is
on the Holocaust, but without the
gives a child's perspective
It
shocking graphics of the permanent exhibit.
the Children,"
evils
Museum
is
**** forbidding,
ugly,
of racial persecution.
folks' vacation plans.
It
also
**V2
IV2-2 hours
Comments
This $l68/million
museum
utilizes stunning, high-
tech audiovisual displays, advanted-comput^r technology, and a model of a Nazi death deliver a message about one of the darkest periods in human history. But that's As part of the museum experience, museum-goers are cast as "victims" of Nazi brutality. Visitors receive an identity card of a real Holocaust victim matched to their
camp to not
all.
—
sex and age other,
more
industrial
a
demographic double. The building attacks the emotions of
subtle, ways.
and forbidding
The
—
interior of the
spotless,
is
visitors in
relentlessly
pipes are exposed and rough surfaces of brick and concrete
are cold and unwelcoming. Diagonal walls effect.
museum, while
the exhibition areas create a disorienting
in
Ghostly shapes pass overhead on glass-bottomed walkways, suggesting Nazi
prison guards patrolling a camp. (Actually, they are visitors walking on footbridges link-
permanent exhibit
ing the
spaces.) Every
moment
museum
spent inside the
is
orches-
trated to impart the horror of Nazi persecution.
While many exhibits focus on Jewish and military events surrounding World
life
War
prior to the Holocaust and the political
II,
the most disturbing displays are graphic
depictions of Nazi atrocities. Large TV screens scattered throughout the exhibits pres-
ent life
still
and motion pictures of Nazi leaders, storm troopers rounding up victims, and
inside Jewish ghettos.
Some
of the TV screens are located behind concrete barriers
to prevent younger (and, inadvertently, shorter) visitors from seeing them. They executions, medical experiments on Jewish prisoners, and suicide victims. strong, grim
It's
show very
stuff.
Touring Tips
Given the unrelenting horror of
its
subject matter, the Holocaust
Museum is at best sobering and, at worst, depressing.There's no bright gloss to put on and anyone visita museum chronicling the systematic murder of six million people ing the Holocaust Museum during a vacation should keep that in mind before placing it .
on
his
or her touring agenda, especially
Other Things to Do Nearby prime
real estate
if
.
.
traveling with small children.
The Holocaust Memorial Museum occupies some
near the Mall, the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, the Washington
Monument, the Tidal Basin, the FDR Memorial, and the Jefferson Memorial, so finding things to do before or after a tour of the museum is easy.The Museum Annex on Raoul Wallenberg Place has
a small deli/cafe that's expensive but convenient.
Vietnam Veterans Memorial Type of Attraction A memorial
to U.S. soldiers
who
died
in
Vietnam
Zone l:The National On
Location
21
I
the west end oTthe Mall nearl:he Lincoln Memorial
Nearest Metro Statior^
Admission
Mall
Bottom/GWU
froggy
Free
Hours
Daily 8 a.m.-
Phone
(202)426-6841
1:45 p.m.
1
Closed Christmas Day.
Web site http://thewall-usa.com When to Go Anytime Comments
Special
At
night this
memorial
matches to search for names inscribed on the
Overall Appeal by Preschool
especially
moving
people
as
light
Age Group
•
Teens |
**
Grade school
is
wall.
Young
J
•• ***
adults
|
Over 30
|
Seniors
•••• ****
Author's Rating Deeply moving. **:^/2
How Much Time
td(Allow 30 minutes
Description and
Comments
inscribed with the
names of the more than 58,000 Americans who died
j
Many
Thtrlong, narrow wall of polished black stone
is
Vietnam.
memorial make rubbings of loved ones' names, while others leave
visitors to the
flowers, military medals, letters, and in
in
gifts
along the base of the wall. The wall, a black
rift
the earth, packs an emotional wallop.
Touring Tips names and the
At both ends of the panel
number to
help
wall visitors will find
them
books that
list
the inscribed
locate an inscription.
Other Things to Do Nearby The Lincoln Memorial, the Reflecting Pool, the $18 million Korean War Veterans Memorial, and Constitution Gardens are close by. Across from the
Mall,
the National
Academy
of Sciences features science exhibits and a statue
of Albert Einstein with a lap that's large enough to
sit in
for picture-taking. For food, walk
up 23rd Street toward Foggy Bottom and an assortment of restaurants and carryouts.
Voice of America Type of Attraction The
Government's overseas radio broadcasting studios.
U.S.
A
guided tour
Location Tours meet
at the
Nearest Metro Station
Admission
C
Street entrance between Third and Fourth Streets,
Federal Center
SW.
SW
Free; reservations are required and
no groups larger than 20 people are
allowed
Hours The 45-minute
tours are Monday-Friday at 10:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 2:30 p.m.,
except holidays.
Phone (202)619-3919
Web
site
Special
www.voa.gov
Comments A "must"
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
for
news
junkies.
Group
—
Teens
•
|
Over 30
|
Grade school
*
|
Young adults
Author's Rating
Fascinating and informative.
How Much Time
to Allow 45 minutes
**
**V2
|
Seniors
•• **
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
2 2
Description and
Comments
After a short video about the
some
able tour guide walks you through
hear radio announcers reading newscasts
Worldwide, the
VOA
broadcasts originate
Ben Shahn events;
in
the
940s. But mostly this
1
You should
Touring Tips
call
is
the knowledge-
where you see and
languages such as Arabic, Estonian, and Urdu. 1
00 shortwave radio transmitters, and
some murals
also see
in this building. You'll
would bore most children
it
in
more than
operates
VOA,
of the agency's 34 studios,
all
painted by noted artist
a tour for people interested
in
media and world
silly.
to reserve a place on a tour, but individuals and small
groups won't have trouble joining a tour by
showing up a few minutes before a
just
scheduled departure.
Other Things to Do Nearby
The U.S. Botanic Garden is around the corner on is two blocks away. For lunch, try the L'Enfant Plaza underground shopping mall, which on weekdays is usually jammed with bureaucrats and finding it. But don't go on weekends: Most restaulooking for good, cheap food Maryland Avenue, SW, and the Mall
—
rants are closed and the place
and
cafes;
is
dead. Capitol
has a wide assortment of restaurants
Hill
another good choice for off-the-Mall eating
Type of Attraction A monument
On
the Old Post Office Pavilion.
Monument
Washington
Location
is
the Mall/between
1
to the
first U.S.
aMJ
5th
president
7th Streets,
NW
Nearest Metro Statron Smithsonian
Admission
Hours
—
^"^
Free
Daily 9 a.m.-4:45 p.m.
The monument may be closed
thunderstorms and
in
during periods of sustained high winds (not out of fear that the giant obelisk ble,
but to protect visitors waiting
in
on
line
exposed
this
will
tum-
hilltop). In addition,
the
grounds surrounding the monument may be closed during security
alerts;
Street entrance. The ticket kiosk
better to get there
early as
on
it's
is
open from 8 a.m.—4:30
p.m.;
it's
use the 15th
a first-come, first-served basis.
Phone (202)426-6841
Web site www.nps.gov/wamo When to Go At 7:30 a.m. to pick up a time ticket. Comments
Special
Skip this
one
bad weather
in
drinks or large bags are allowed into this
—
ticket" system to eliminate the long lines that used to
of the
monument.
until
all
1
ticket for the trip
,400 tickets run out.
With only 50 1
tickets given
on busy days and by reserved
in
view can be
1
wrap three times around the base
out per
half hour,
on slow
for
all
in
by
morning
calling
(800)
Preschool
go
tickets
on your
first. Tickets
967-2283
by clouds, too bad. Refunds are given only
Overall Appeal by Age
hours are 8 a.m. ticket.
the tickets are usually gone by 9:30 a.m.
days; early
fee
a
later that day; kiosk
5 minutes before the time printed
v/ww.reservations. nps.gov. There's a $2 service charge per ticket
Grade school
food,
maximum of six per person) at the kiosk monument grounds.Then return at the time
up the elevator
Show up
:30 p.m.
advance
the view's socked
No
lousy.
Pick up the free tickets (a
located on 15th Street on the edge of the
stamped on your
^the
monument. The Park Service operates a "time
if
.
.
the
.
or
and
can be
online
if it's
raining
monument
is
|
|
Author's Rating Obligatory
Teens
Young
••••• *****
adults
for first-time visitors.
|
Over 30
|
Seniors
*****
or
closed.
Group
•••• *****
at:
••••• *****
—3 ZoneJiThe National
How Much Time to Allow observation deck can seem
Once you make
it
an eternity.
\
like
Description and
Comments
other
(it's
tall
not
if it's
buildings raining.
2
1
to the top, 30 minutes on the cramped
/
At the top youVe-^OJ^at^up, and
a law) guarantees a glorious,
For most people, a first-time
Mall
D.C.'s
absence of
unobstructed view of Washington
trip to
Washington
isn't
complete without
most of them are surprised when they reach the cramped observation deck: You almost have to elbow your way to the tiny windows to see anything.The view, however, is great. Nobody's ever disappointed once they see it
an ascent of this famous landmark. Yet
The new, year-round "time
Touring Tips in line
for the elevator trip to the top of the
of 2000 after renovations. (The wait
ticket" system eliminates three-hour waits
monument, which reopened
line
in
now reduced
is
in
the
summer
to about half an hour for
visitors.) Bathrooms are located behind the outdoor amphitheater on the monument grounds and the snack bar near the ticket kiosk, but use them only in desperate
most
situations:They are usually
the the food courts
in
dirty.
A
nearby snack bar
Other Things to Do Nearby
Bureau of Engraving and
National
Museum
is
of American History, and the National Aquarium. At
it is
end of the Mall (toward the
at the
other
one end of the
a nice day
If it's
and you're
between the Washington Monument tree-lined, tranquil, and not nearly as crowded
museumed-out, explore the stretch of the and the Lincoln Memorial. Much of
is
At hand
Holocaust Memorial Museum, the
Printing, the
the Lincoln Memorial; the U.S. Capitol
as the east
overpriced; during the week, try
You're at the heart of tourist Washington:
are the
Mall
is
the Old Post Office Pavilion and the Ronald Reagan Building.
Mall
U.S. Capitol).
I The White House Type of Attraction The
residence of the president of the United States
official
(Self-
guided tour)
Location 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue,
Nearest Metro Stations
Phone (202)456-7041
Web
or (202) 456-2121 (TDD)
site v/ww.whitehouse.gov
Special
more
NW
Federal Triangle
Comments
House
Public tours of the White
are available for groups of
people. Requests must be submitted through one's
accepted up to 6 months
in
member
a first-come, first-served basis approximately
date.
You must submit your request
number
as
of tours available. Note: White
lation. All visitors
should
7041 to determine
if
call
Author's Rating effort for this
1
1
2:30 p.m., and are scheduled in
advance of the requested
as possible since there are only a limited
House tours may be
subject to last-minute cancel-
the 24-hour Visitors Office information
Teens
|
|
Young
made
in
line at
(202) 456-
the tour schedule.
•••/i
adults
••*•
|
|
Over 30 Seniors
•••• ••**
During high tourist season, the tour requires too much time and
5-minute experience.
How Much Time to Allow do something
month
Group
•• school ••*
Preschool
Grade
soon
I
any last-minute changes have been
Overall Appeal by Age
or
advance. These free, self-guided tours are scheduled Tuesday
through Saturday (excluding federal holidays) 7:30 a.m. to
on
1
of Congress and are
**
Block out an entire morning, even though there's time to
else (like eat breakfast) before
your scheduled tour
214
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Description and Connments
First things first: You
seeing the president on this tour of the
have absolutely zero chance of
White House. The
all-too-quick tour passes
through the ubiquitous metal detectors and into the East Wing lobby; look out the win-
dow
Rose Garden. Then it's up the stairs to the East Room, the Green Room, Room, the Red Room, and the State Dining Room and you're done! It's hard
into the
the Blue
—
to dispute the emotional pull of the presidential residence or if
you're on a first-time
the White
The
visit
House on another
visitor
center
is
mansion for those
lic
who
We
in
the
or winter
fall
and attractive, featuring
on the White House,
on
September
lots of carpeting, places to
a gift shop,
and
out of bed before dawn to get
didn't crawl
haven't been
after the events of
preferably
trip,
large
nice rest rooms, static displays
Touring Tips
sumptuous beauty, but
its
to Washington and on a limited schedule, consider visiting
a tour since the
in line
sit,
tour of the
for a ticket.
White House closed to the pub-
2001, but be forewarned:
I,
I
a video
the past, holding a
in
tour ticket sometimes meant an hour-long wait before the tour actually began.
Other Things to Do Nearby St.
John's Episcopal Church,
Across from the White House on Lafayette Square
known
"The Church of the
as
is
Presidents," because every
president since Madison has attended services here. Step inside the small church to its simple design; on most Wednesdays at noon there's an organ recital. Behind the White House stands the Washington Monument, another D.C. edifice that requires time tickets. Pick them up at the kiosk on 5th Street.
view
1
Zone
Capitol Hill
2:
Fo/ger Shakespeare Library Type of Attraction A museum and Location 20
1
Hours
Bard (Self-guided tour)
East Capitol Street, SE
Nearest Metro Stations
Admission
library dedicated to the
Capitol South, Union Station
Free
Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.—4 p.m.; tours at
on Saturday; closed on
federal holidays.
Garden
Saturday of each month. There are tours at
I
a.m.
I
daily,
and
I
I
a.m. and
I
p.m.
open April-October on every third 10 a.m. and a.m.; call (202) 675-0395 for is
I
I
group tours.
Phone
(202) 544-4600
Web site www.folger.edu When to Go Anytime Special
Comments
The
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
library
is
available only to accredited scholars.
Group
—
Teens •Va
|
Over 30
|
Grade school Author's Rating
*
Dull.
**
|
Seniors
•• **
•*
How Much Time to Allow Description and
Young adults
|
I
Comments
hour
The
Folger
House
is
the world's largest collection of
Shakespeare's printed works, as well as a vast array of other rare Renaissance books and manuscripts. But unless you're a scholar doing research, you can't see any of stroll
it.
Instead,
the Great Hall, featuring hand-carved, oak-paneled walls and priceless displays
from the museum's
collection.
You may
also visit the three-tiered Elizabethan theater,
215
2 6
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
1
with walls of timber and plaster and carved oak columns. The Folger
is
an incongruous
Olde Eng-
attraction that holds appeal only for people with a love of language, Merrie land,
and the theater. But
Touring Tips conducted
grown at
Night's
much
Guided tours of the
daily at
I
a second or third trip to Capitol
Hill.
and the Elizabethan garden are
building, exhibits,
a.m. Special tours of the garden, featuring herbs and flowers
I
Shakespeare's time, are held every third Saturday from April through October
a.m. and
1
mer
in
worth a peek on
It's
I
I
a.m. At the
Dream
west end of the
Puck from A Midsum-
building, a statue of
generally presides over a fountain and pool. The Folger doesn't have
of interest for kids, unless yours have a fondness for gardens or exhibits on
Eliz-
abethan England.
OtherThings to Do Nearby which
The
Folger
directly behind the Library of Congress,
is
Supreme Court
front of the U.S. Capitol.The
sits in
is
less
than a block away. Walk
south on Second Street, SE, to find a wide array of restaurants and cafes.The sixth-floor cafeteria in the Library of Congress's
Madison Building
is
a cheap lunch option.
Library of Congress Type of Attraction The
world's largest library (Guided and self-guided tours)
Location
on Capitol
First Street, SE,
Nearest Metro Station
Admission
Hours
Hill
Capitol South
Free
Exhibition areas
in
the newly restored Jefferson Building are open
Saturday, 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; the library
mas and minute
New Year's
10:30 a.m., I
on the
film I
is
Days.The Visitors Theater library's mission.
in
the Jefferson Building shows a free
1
2-
Free guided tours are offered Monday-Friday, at
1:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m., 2:30 p.m.,
and 3:30
p.m.,
and Saturdays
and 2:30 p.m. Groups are limited to 50 people;
1:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m.,
Monday-
closed Sundays, federal holidays, and Christ-
tour (for that day only) at the Information Desk located
ground floor on the west side of the Jefferson
at 10:30 a.m.,
sign
up for any
in
the visitor center (on the
Building). Pick
up your tickets 10 minutes
before the tour begins.
Phone
(202) 707-8000
Web site www.loc.gov When to Go Anytime Special
Comments A
erary, but consider
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
the library might not be on most
trip to
making an exception
in this
folks'
vacation
itin-
case.
Group
—
•• *** Impressive and informative. **** Teens
|
Over 30 •••1/2
|
Grade school Author's Rating
*
How Much Time to Allow
Young
|
adults
|
Seniors
****
hour for the guided tour and another hour to browse
I
the exhibits.
Description and
Comments
gress: the Jefferson, Madison,
and
on here, take one of the guided
Three huge structures make up the Library of Con-
Adams
Buildings.
tours. (To get the
minute video about the varied workings of the an hour, you can look at other exhibits
in
For an understanding of what goes
most out of the
library.)
tour, first see the
After the tour, which
1
2-
about
the Jefferson and Madison Buildings on your
own. Who should go? The Library of Congress holds strong appeal for in
lasts
books, academic research, American history, and antiquities.
On
folks interested
the other hand,
Zone because
it's
a lecture tour,
it is
2:
217
Capitol Hill
not suitable for young children, and most first-time
visi-
tors on a tight schedule shouldn't waste their valuable touring time here.
the spring of 1997 a permanent exhibit called "American Treasures of the Library
In
of Congress" marked the reopening of the Thomas Jefferson Building, under renovation since
1
984. The rotating exhibition
and most
the Great Hall features 200 of the library's rarest
in
such as Thomas Jefferson's rough draft of the Declaration of
significant items,
Independence, Abraham Lincoln's
Wilbur Wright's telegram to
first
his father
and second drafts of the Gettysburg Address, announcing the
Bernard Hermann's manuscript score for the
Although the Library consists of three
Touring Tips
Jefferson Building if
on
First
you have the time and
Street.The tour, with
its
The tours
interest. Note;
flight,
and
buildings, visitors enter at the
well-informed guide.
Is
way to go a good
the
are extremely popular, and
summer
idea to arrive early during the spring and
heavier-than-air
first
film classic Citizen Kane.
it's
to sign up for a tour later
In
the day.
Tickets are available for that day only. Special tours can be arranged for a group of 10
to 60 people through reservation only, the tour must occur begin as early as 9 a.m. or as late as
A permanent exhibit on
Monday through
Friday, to
p.m.
I
copyright located on the fourth floor of the Madison Build-
ing features the original Barbie
and Ken
dolls, Dr.
Martin Luther King
Jr.'s
"I
Have
a
Dream" speech, and the statue of the "Maltese falcon" used In the famous film of the same name. More temporary exhibits are located on the sixth floor Library materials available here go way beyond books. For Instance, the Library of Congress has an extensive collection of recorded music, broadcast material, and films. While ostensibly
these research materials are for "serious" researchers only, almost anyone with' a strong Interest in, say, the recordings of Jimmy Durante can find valuable information
and hear rare recordings. For musical material, go to the Recorded Sound Reference Center, located on the
ready to
first
floor of the
OtherThlngs to Do Nearby are
all
The
within a block or two. Capitol
of which
Madison
where
Building,
helpful librarians are
assist.
is
U.S. Capitol,
Hill
Supreme Court, and Folger Library
abounds with nearby lunch spots, not the
right here. The sixth-floor cafeteria in the
congressional staffers, and
from 12:30 p.m. to
it's
a
good
Madison Building
deal for visitors,
who
is
least
popular with
can grab a bite to eat here
3 p.m.
museum)
National Postal
Museum
Type of Attraction
Displays from the largest philatelic collection
(a Smithsonian
in
the world and
exhibits about the social, historical, and technological impact of the U.S. postal system (Self-guided tour)
Location Washington City Post
Office building, 2 Massachusetts Avenue, NE, next to
Union Station
Nearest Metro Station Union
Admission
Station
Free
Hours
Dally, 10
Phone
(202) 633-5555 or (202) 633-9849
a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.
(TDD)
Web site v/ww.postalmuseum.si.edu When to Go Anytime Overall Appeal by Age Preschool irV2
Grade school
***
Group Teens \
|
Young
•• **
adults
|
|
Over 30
icirVz
Seniors **i/2
218
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Author's Rating
Nifty. And
How Much Time
to Allow 1-2 hours
Description and
Comments
one of America's 20 from the
ceiling in
and track a
the building that houses the
letter
million
It's
stamp
more
interesting than
the atrium, plus hands-on fun
Mall),
it's
how
in
relative proximity to
the mail
moved, the
is
each otherThemes focus on
importance of
social
call in
letters,
Due
to
its
small size (at least
street from Union Station,
in
it
many
a half-hour
folks will find
it
Other Things to Do Nearby full
The
library.
when compared to museums on or so. And because it's right across convenient to drop
a train. Docent-led "drop-in" tours are available at
I
I
a.m. and
Capital Children's
and
advance for appointments to
the museum's world-class collection or to use the extensive
easy to whiz through
away, making a
you're not
if
the chance to sort mail on a train
like
the beauty and lore of stamps. Serious collectors can in
—even
***
collectors. Kids will love the real airplanes hanging
adults are entertained while they're
see any stamp
sounds
it
stunning.
is
from Kansas to Nairobi. Exhibits are arranged so that children and
the history of mail service,
Touring Tips
museum
I
in
p.m.
Museum
is
the
the
while waiting for daily.
only a few blocks
—without
day of kid-oriented museum-hopping a distinct possibility
going near the Mall. Union Station's food
hall
can
satisfy
any food craving.
Union Station Type of Attraction A
spectacular interior space housing a transportation hub,
upscale shops, a theater complex, and a food court
Location Massachusetts Avenue ahdislorth Capitol
Nearest Metro Station Union
Admission
Street,
NE
Station
\
Free
Hours Shops open
Monday^^SsrtWFda^l
a.m.-9 p.m.; Sunday, noon-6 p.m.
Phone (202)289-1908
Web site www.unionstationdc.com When to Go Anytime Special
Connments The
food court's fare
is
on the expensive
side,
but the vast
selection justifies the extra cost.
Overall Appeal by Age Group.
•
Preschool
Grade school Author's Rating
.
**
A
is
••• x Young adults *** \
Over 30 •••1/2 Seniors ***i/2
"
I
1/2
|
beaux-arts palace and a great lunch'stop.
How Much Time to Allow Description and
—__„
„^
Teens
|
I
***y2
hour to wander;ionger for shopping or
Comments
The Main
Hall,
eating.
with a 90-foot barrel-vaulted
ceiling,
breathtaking. Shops run the gamut: chic clothing stores,The Great Train Store, book-
stores, Brookstone, the you'll find
Nature Company
everything from sushi to
ribs,
— 130
stores altogether
In
the food court
while a nine-screen cinema complex offers sol-
ace on a rainy day. There are also seven restaurants for dining or private functions, an international currency exchange, three sight-seeing
companies
With more than 25 attraction
in
million visitors a year,
Washington
Touring Tips Capitol
companies and three
rental car
on-site. First-time visitors to D.C. shouldn't miss this magnificent structure.
Hill is a
Union Station
(the National Air and Space
Union Station
is
is
Museum
the most-visited tourist is
number two).
a great jumping-off point for touring Washington.
few blocks away (step out the front and walk toward the
big
dome), and
Zone Town
Tourmobile, Gray Line, and Old day.
Maryland commuter trains
Trolley tours stop
MARC)
(called
timore, stopping at points between
Capitol
2:
roundtrip from Baltimore
(a
Monday through
Fri-
between D.C.and
Bal-
in front.
regularly shuttle
219
Hill
$l4).Virginia Railway
is
Express shuttles commuters and daytrippers from Fredericksburg, Manassas, and points in between to Union Station weekdays.To top it off, there's a Metro station in the base-
ment.
hard to believe that Washington functioned before Union Station's rebirth (at
It's
a cost of
more
than $ 00 million)
in
1
Other Things to Do Nearby cab:The neighborhood
is
1
988.
Kids
will love
marginal. The Postal
it,
but either walk
Museum
in
a
group or take a
next door to Union Station;
is
the U.S. Capitol, the Supreme Court, and the Library of Congress are close.
Garden
U.S. Botanic
Type of Attraction A permanent housed
in
collection of tropical, subtropical and desert plants
a stunning, fully renovated, 38,000-square-foot
SW (on the Mall Federal Center, SW
Location 100 Maryland Avenue,
Nearest Metro Stations
Admission
greenhouse (Self-guided tour)
near the U.S. Capitol)
Free
Hours
Daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m.
Phone
(202) 225-8333
Web site v/v^w. us bg.gov When to Go Anytime Special
Comments
Skip
it
on
a sweltering
summer
afternoon.
Overall Appeal by Age Group Preschool
•
Teens
••
••• •***
Over 30
[
|
Grade school irVi
Young
\
adults
**i/2
Author's Rating An excellent and comprehensive
How Much Time to Allow Description and
collection of plant
plantation
Comments
in
a tropical rainforest
people with green thumbs
most
folks will just
***
a building that reflects the
The Conservatory,
museum on
display orchids, ferns, cacti,
life.
30 minutes
grand manner of Victorian architecture (even though 1930s), houses a living
Seniors
|
under a dome that
was constructed
rises to
and other types of plants
will
it
the
it's
down
93
feet.
Other sections While
in naturalistic settings.
want to put these gardens on
want to know
sights along the Mall. You can sit
in
the Mall. The central jungle depicts an abandoned
their first-visit itinerary,
nearby for a quiet break from more hectic
here, relax, read a
book
—or
just
do nothing
in
a magnificent setting.
Touring Tips
Before or after strolling though
Bartholdi Park (open from
the Conservatory and
dawn
named
until dusk),
greenhouse,
for the designer of the Statue of Liberty.
tures displays of bulbs, annuals, and perennials. originally exhibited at the
this giant
visit
located across Independence
The
focal point
1876 Centennial Exhibition
in
is
Frederic
Avenue from
The park
fea-
Bartholdi Fountain,
Philadelphia.
Other Things to Do Nearby The National Air and Space Museum and the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden are close, as is the U.S. Capitol (although to tour the building requires time tickets handed out early each morning). L'Enfant Plaza, about five
blocks away, has a shopping mall loaded with restaurants and fast-food outlets.
220
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
U,S. Capitol Type of Attraction The
building
Location
l^all
East end of the
where Congress meets (Guided tours
only)
Nea^rest Metro Stations Capitol South, Union Station
/^Adnnission Free
Hours The
"""^^^^
building
^^
open n^nday-Saturday, March-August, 9:30 a.m.-S p.m. and
is
I
September-February, 9 a.m.—4:30 ^p.m., for guided tours
I
\
Christmas, and
\ on
New Year's
Closed Thanksgiving,
only.
Days. Pickup free tickets at the Capitol Guide Service kiosk
the curving sidewalk southwest of'the Capitol (the Mall side, near the U.S. Botanic
\iarden). Ticket distribution begins at 9 a.m.;
if
you want one of the 450
(good
tickets
for that day only), arrive by 8 a.m.
Phone
Web
(202) 225-6827 for a recording or (202) 225-3 2 1
site
Comnnents
Special
1
for the Capitol switchboard
www.aoc.gov After closing to the public after September
reopened to guided tours only
December 200 1. A
in
shuttle
is
I
available
the Capitol
I,
from the
ticket
kiosk to the Capitol. Prohibited items include knives, pointed objects, pepper spray, duffle
and bottles.
bags, backpacks, aerosol cans,
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
Group
•
Author's Rating
Young
|
awesome monument
*****
tour, j
Description and Connnifenits an
Seniors
|
***»*V2
hour for the
I
Over 30 ••••1/2
|
adults
Interesting and beautiful.
How Much Time to Allow
••• ****
Teens
|
Grade school **i/2
The
U.S. CapitoJ/manages to
be two things
at once:
to dem'otraey^aR4-cTTieof the most important places
the
in
world, as the frequent presence of reporters and film crews outside attests.The rather brief public tour,
however, takes visitors through only a small part of the Capitol: the
Rotunda and a few other rooms, which may include Statuary
chambers (when they're not
in
session),
Hall,
the
House or Senate
and the low-ceilinged crypt. From the soaring
Rotunda to the opulent rooms where the House and Senate meet, the Capitol physically beautiful
tour
is
and packed with historical significance. For first-time
both awe-inspiring and relatively quick (after you've picked up
TourlngTips
If
the
name
maps and other
it
make: coming to the Capitol without a
helpful touring
to either the
Congress operates.
is
one
Then
call
(202) 224-3 2
heavy on the history of the building, but
House or Senate chambers,
(Stick close to the guide
OtherThings to Do Nearby
pick
if
up. (Don't
goodies while you're there.) Don't
of your representative or of your senators?
locating an office. The free tour
makes
visitors
Go first to the office of your senator or representative to
forget to ask for
the
tickets).
your plans include viewing a session of Congress, don't make the time-
consuming mistake thousands of other gallery pass.
both
is
visitors,
you'll
1
if
1
know
for help
your group
get a good run-down on
you expect to hear the entire
how
spiel.)
Explore the rest of Capitol HilhThe Supreme Court
and Library of Congress face the Capitol's east front.
On
the other side, the east end of
the Mall features the U.S. Botanic Garden and the East Wing of the National Gallery of is famous for its bars and restaurants. To find them, walk toward ConAvenue and past the Library of Congress's Madison Building, located between Independence Avenue and C Street, NE.
Art. Capitol Hill stitution
Zone U.S.
2:
Capitol Hill
221
Supreme Court
Type of Attraction The Location One
nation's highest court (Self-guided tour)
First Street,
Admission
U.S. Capitol
NE. across from the east front of the
Nearest Metro Stations Union
South
Station, Capitol
Free
Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Free lectures are offered every hour on the half-hour between 9:30 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. when the court isn't in session. Closed Sat-
Hours
urdays, Sundays, and federal holidays.
Phone (202)479-3211
Web site www.supremecourtus.gov When to Go Anytime to tour the building. To
see the Court
in
session, the public
may attend oral arguments held Mondays,Tuesdays, and Wednesdays, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., in 2-week intervals from October through April; check the "A" section of the Washington Post
Special nessing
Comments
one of the
Seeing an oral argument here
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
is
probably your best chance of wit-
major branches of the government
3
—
Teens |
Grade school
in
operation while
in
D.C.
Group
*
Young
|
Author's Rating Extremely
interesting
How Much Time to Allow
•• ***
Seniors
|
****
****
and enlightening.
hour to tour the
I
Over 30 •••!/2
|
adults
building; plan
at least 2 hours total
on
to see an oral argument.
Description and
Comments
final
courtroom and hear
a short lecture
explains the workings of the small
museum, a
gift
works
in
general.
Touring Tips line.
Two
lines
on
its
Supreme Court
in
session, visitors
in
how
in
Others should pass
To see an
more
line,
line,
visit
On
the ground floor
Is
a
is
a
on
arriving
no
is
who
just
want to
Bring quarters:You will have to place personal belongings
coin-operated (quarters only) lockers. Security here
slip in
like
how
the law
impressive.
later than 9 a.m. to get in
for those wishing to hear an entire
for folks
stun-
to the Supreme Court
detail.
up, although the building itself
oral argument, plan
form: a regular
hour), and a three-minute
may enter the
the federal government works, or it
where the
workings. An excellent 20-minute film
shop, a cafeteria, and a snack bar. A
must for anyone interested
is
interpretations of the U.S. Constitution and
laws passed by Congress. When the Court's not ning
Greek temple
This magnificent faux
nine-member Supreme Court makes
for a
argument
(an
few moments.
backpacks and cameras
in
no-nonsense: Visitors pass
is
through two X-ray machines before entering the courtroom, where very serious-looking security people patrol the aisles. Small children are not allowed in the courtroom during oral
arguments.
Other Things to Do Nearby
The U.S. Capitol, the Library of Congress, the Museum, and the Folger Shakespeare Library are all close by The comfortable cafeteria on the ground level of the Supreme Court is one of the better government eateries. It's open for breakfast from 7:30 a.m. to 0:30 a.m. and for lunch from 1:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. except for 15-minute periods when only Court employees may enter Capitol Hill is renowned for its many bars and cafes, many of which are a short National Postal
1
I
walk up Second Street,
SE.
222
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Zone
Downtown
3:
Federal Bureau of Investigation Type of Attraction reopen
Location Tenth
NW, at
Street,
Pennsylvania Avenue. Visitor's entrance
at Ninth
is
and
NW
E Streets,
Phone
headquarters; closed for renovations and scheduled to
FBI
2005 or 2006
in late
(202) 324-3447
Web site
www.fbi.gov
Ford's Theatre! Petersen
Type of Attraction The house across the
Location
5
1
I
street,
House
restored theater where
where he died
Tenth Street,
Hours
Lincoln
was
shot, and the
NW
Nearest Metro Station Metro Center,
Admission
Abraham
(Self-guided tour)
I
I
th Street exit
Free
Daily,
9 a.m.-5 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.
Phone (202)426-6924
Web
—wvvw.fordstheatre.org or —www.nps.gov/foth/hwld.htm
site Ford's Theatre
Petersen House
When
Go Anytime Comments The
to
Special
theater (but not the
museum)
Thursday and Sunday afternoons, when matinees are
on other afternoons when rehearsals are Overall Appeal by Age
is
closed to visitors on
progress.
It
may
also be closed
progress.
Group
•
Preschool
in
in
Teens
••
Over 30 ••1/2
|
|
Grade school
irVi
Author's Rating An
Young
\
adults **i/2
interesting, but small,
Seniors
|
museum; the theater
is
***
a reconstruction of
the original interior **!/2
How Much Time to Allow Description and
I
Comments
hour Don't miss the recently updated Lincoln
Museum
in
the basement of the theater, featuring the clothes Lincoln was wearing the night he was
shot and the derringer used to
kill
him. Across the street, Petersen
House
glimpse of nineteenth-century Washington. Ford's Theatre, both the
where
Lincoln
was
shot,
is
small.
Unless you're a history
buff, this
is
offers a
museum and
mostly a
fill-in
stop,
at least for first-time visitors.
Touring Tips
Start with the theater, then view the
museum
in
the basement before
crossing the street to Petersen House.
OtherThings to Do Nearby The International Spy Museum, the National Portrait Gallery, and the American Art Museum are all close. For lunch, it's four or five blocks to Chinatown, two blocks to the Old Post Office Pavilion, or just down the street to the Hard Rock Cafe.
International Spy
Museum
Type of Attraction The history and gadgetry ington's newest museums (Self-guided tour)
of espionage housed
in
one of Wash-
Zone Location 800
Admission $
223
Statiort Gallery Place
3 for
I
Downtown
NW'
F Street.
Nearest Metro
3:
adul\ages
2-64;
1
$12 for
com-
seniors 65+, active-duty military,
munity and college students;^tOfer children ages 5-11, children ages 4 and under
Hours
a.m.-8
9
April-August,
Daily,
August-October,
p.m.;
October-March,
10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and
Phone
museum (779-687386) or (202) 654-0944
(866) spy
Web site vwvw.spymuseum.org When to Go After the spook
museum opened
in
free.
a.m.-8
p.m.;
New Year's
Days.
10
summer of 2002, lines minimum wait in line of 45
the
stretched around the block throughout the day, signaling a
minutes (from the middle of the block on Ninth Street) or longer Either arrive at least or plan to visit around 5 p.m. weekdays, when there's usually
a half-hour before 9 a.m.
no
wait.
Special
Comments
There's a long, steep
of stairs to descend about halfway
flight
through the museum.
Overall Appeal by Age
Grade school
Group
•
Preschool
••• Young adults *** Teens
|
***
|
Spycraft meets Austin Powers:
Author's Rating
and dodges some important moral questions (and operations. Otherwise, of world-class
it's
fun
in
Over 30 ••• ***i/2
|
Seniors
|
The museum
is
slick,
manipulative
historical failures) of U.S. intelligence
an empty-headed sort of way (and located
in city full
museums, most of them keey.^Vi
How Much Time
to Allow 90 minutes to 2 hours.
CIA headquarters across the Potomac in Lanowned museum offers the next best thing: a look at the secret world of intelligence. More than 400 artifacts are on display, ranging from items dating from Biblical times to the modern age of terror What you'll see: tools of the trade such as a lipstick pistol developed by the KGB, an Enigma cipher an machine used by the Allies to break German secret codes during World War Aston Martin DB 5 sports car decked out like the one used by James Bond in Goldfingenand tributes to celebrity spies such as dancer Josephine Baker (who worked for the Description and
Comments
gley isn't offering tours, this
Since
$40
million privately
II,
French resistance) and
late
TV
chef
Julia
won't see: Any mention of spectacular CIA, NSA,
Child
(who worked
for the OSS).
What you how the
failures of U.S. intelligence, including
DIA and other alphabet-soup
spy agencies missed the
fall
of the Soviet
and helped overthrow elected governments around the world. Alas, the museum's us-versus-them mentality spares visitors from the moral ambiguity of intelligence gathering.To get that insight, skip the museum and curl up with
Union and the Shah of
a novel by
John
Touring Tips
le
Carre
corridors in
—making
mind
as
(a
former
spy).
is one of those museums where visitors are herded into an elesecond floor and everyone negotiates their way through narrow
This
vator, taken to the
that
Iran,
it
difficult
to linger or backtrack against the
human
current.
Keep
you tour
Other Things to Do Nearby The National Portrait Gallery and the Smithsonian American Art Museum are across the street; currently under renovation, the museums are scheduled to reopen in July 2006. Ford's Theatre/Petersen House (where Lincoln was assassinated/died) are a block over on Tenth Street N.W The booming downtown area is teeming with new restaurants. For classy Mexican cuisine, try Andele
at
Seventh and D.
226
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
biology, exploration,
and space science.
also a bit heavy
It's
embarrassing to adults. For example. Earth Station simulates orbital
flight
One
is
on quizzes that could prove a 72-seat
punch buttons as they answer geography questions posed by the
Touring Tips
shown on Tuesdays
M
Street
Other Things to Do Nearby
The in,
6th Street; you can't go
National
Type of Attraction The
a great spot for a
brown-bag lunch. Free
still-imposing Russian
embassy
is
around the
but check out the array of antennas on the roof.
of Women
Museum
is
noon.
at
corner on
1
lets kids
"captain."
Don't miss the extensive sales shop that offers books, videos, maps,
and magazines. The courtyard on films are
amphitheater that
23,000 miles above the earth. The interactive program
in
the Arts
most important
world's single
collection of art by
women
(Self-guided tour)
New York Avenue, NW
Location 1250
Nearest Metro Station Metro Center
Admission $8
for adults;
Hours Monday-Saturday, Christmas, and
Phone
$6 for seniors 60+ and students, free for ages 18 and under 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday,
New Year's
noon-5
p.m. Closed Thanksgiving,
Days.
(202) 783-5000
Web site www.nmwa.org When to Go Anytime Special tion
Comments
Unfortunately, this beautiful
museum
is in
an inconvenient loca-
on the edge of downtown.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
•
Preschool
Grade school
Young
|
Author's Rating Both the
adults
Over 30 •••1/2 Seniors ***i/2
|
***
|
building and the art are superb.
How Much Time to Allow Description and
Teens ••'/2
|
**
***i/2
1-2 hours
Comments
This relatively
new museum
has a permanent collec-
tion of paintings and sculpture that includes art by Georgia O'Keeffe, Frida Kahio, and
Helen Frankenthaler, as well as art by ent.
From the
outside,
it
looks
like
women from
the sixteenth century to the pres-
any other office building along crowded
New York
Avenue. But inside the former Masonic Grand Lodge are striking architectural features such as a crystal chandelier, a main
hall
and mezzanine, and the Grand Staircase. The
is where you'll find the Next door, a new annex that opened in the fall of 1997 allowed the museum to expand the amount of artwork on display, including sculpture and contemporary works by lesser-known women artists.While this beautiful museum well off
second-floor balcony hosts temporary exhibits; the third floor
permanent
collection.
the beaten path deserves to be seen by
enjoy
it
on
more
people, first-time visitors can wait and
a later trip.
Touring Tips Take the elevator to the fourth (top) floor and work your way down. The mezzanine features an attractive cafe offering "light fare," and there's a gift shop on the ground floor
OtherThings to Do Nearby A block away is the old Greyhound Bus Station, now Art Deco masterpiece; take a peek inside. The Capitol City Brewing Company brews beer on the premises and serves hearty fare like burgers to go with
a fully restored
it.
Zone
4:
Foggy Bottom
227
National Portrait Galler y (a Smithsonian museum) This
museum dosed
major renovations
for
museum dosed
major renovatons
for
scheduled to reopen
is
in
2006.
in
January
2000 and
scheduled to reopen
is
in
2006.
Foggy Bottom
Zone
4:
John
Kennedy Center
F.
January 2000 and
Museum(a Smithsonian museum)
Smithsonian A merican Art This
in
Type of Attraction Both
for th e Performing Arts
presidential
memorial and
performing arts headquar-
D.C.'s
ters (Guided tour for groups only)
Location
New
Hampshire Avenue,
Nearest Metro Station Foggy
Admission
NW, and
F Street
Bottom/GWU
Free
Hours
Daily, 10 a.m.-midnight.
Phone
(202) 4 6-8340; (202) 4 6-8524 (TTY) 1
1
Web site www.kennedy-center.org When to Go Free tours begin every on Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m.Special
Comments
The Kennedy Center Overall Appeal by Preschool
The is
1
15 minutes; Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.,
and
p.m.
leisurely
tour
lasts
about 45 minutes but
is
easy on the feet:
well carpeted.
Age Group
•
Teens
•
Over 30 ••^a
|
\
Grade school
*
Author's Rating So-so
How Much Time Description and
Young
|
huge
art, a
to Allow
I
adults
building,
**
Seniors
|
and a great view.
***
**
hour
Comments
The white
rectilinear
Kennedy Center
facility
boasts
four major stages, a film theater, and a sumptuous interior shimmering with crystal, mirrors, and deep-red carpets. The Grand Foyer is longer than two football fields. Nations from around the world contributed art and artifacts on display in halls and foyers, such as African art, Beame porcelain, tapestries, and sculptures. If rehearsals aren't in
progress, the tour includes peeks inside the intimate Eisenhower Theater, the
House
(featuring a spectacular chandelier),
Admirers of JFK and culture vultures
will
and the Concert
Hall,
Opera
which seats 2,750.
love the tour, while kids will probably get
bored. But you don't have to take the tour to enjoy the view; take the elevators to the
roof terrace.
TouringTips While the guided tour is leisurely and informative, the best way to visit the Kennedy Center is to attend a concert, play, or film. Before or after the event, go up
—the view
to the seventh floor and stroll the roof terrace round-trip shuttle service from the Foggy 1
a.m. to midnight every
day at 6 p.m.
in
1
Bottom Metro
at night
station
5 minutes. Also, don't miss the free
is
is
terrific.
Free
offered daily from
performance given every
the Grand Foyer.
You can lunch or snack at the Kennedy Center's Encore Cafe without securing a second mortgage on your house, but the Roof Terrace Restaurant is expense-account priced. The infamous Watergate project is across
Other Things to Do Nearby
228
G
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Kennedy Center and features expensive shops and
Street from the
you won't
find
and jogging path along the Potomac River
ing
low
restaurants, but
any memorial to a certain burglary that occurred there is
in
1
972. A bik-
below the Kennedy Center;
just
upriver to Thompson's Boat Center, which rents canoes and bikes.
it
farther
is
A
fol-
little
Washington Harbour, an upscale collection of shops, restaurants, and con-
dominiums, featuring add
artists that
and
life-size
sculptures of tourists, joggers, workers, and
lifelike
whimsy to
a bit of
scenic
al
fresco dining along the
river.
Hard-core
Walk up Wisconsin Avenue and crowded sidewalks. Before
walkers can continue along the path into Georgetown.
and you enter a world of trendy shops, restaurants,
you walk too to
far,
where you
remember
that
Department of the
U.S.
Georgetown
lacks a
Metro
station to get
you back
started.
Type of Attraction A museum
Interior located inside a square-mile chunk of government
bureaucracy (Self-guided tour)
Location
1
849
C
NW, between
Street,
1
8th and
1
9th Streets
Nearest Metro Station FarragutWest
Admission
Hours
must show
Free; adults
photo ID to enter
a
Monday-Friday, 8:30 a.m.—4:30 p.m., and every third Saturday, 1-4 p.m.; other-
wise, closed
Phone
weekends and
federal holidays.
(202) 208-4743
Web site v^v/w.doi.gov When to Go Anytime Special
Comments Go
on
a rainy day. Adults
must show
a
photo ID to enter the
building.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
•
Preschool
Teens
•
Over 30
|
Grade school
**
|
Young
|
Boring. * How Much Time to Allow
adults
*
Seniors
|
• *
Author's Rating
Description and 16 acres of floors,
45 minutes
Comments two
This six-wing, seven-story limestone edifice includes
miles of corridors
mines and geothermal power
plants.
—and an old-fashioned museum. Dioramas of
Native American
artifacts,
and a
historical exhibit
crowd the rather dark and quiet exhibit hall. This is defimuseum, unless you have a strong interest in national parks.
of the National Park Service nitely a rainy-day kind of a
Touring Tips Survey load up
map
on brochures on any (or
office here.
and
Outdoors-people and map-lovers shouldn't miss the
store, located off the lobby
The
cafeteria can seat
1
from the museum entrance,
turquoise
,200 people (open weekdays, 7 a.m. to 2:45 p.m.).
The
DAR Museum
are around the corner on 17th Street; the Mall
gon, one of Washington's earliest and
is
and the Corcoran Gallery of Art
about two blocks south. The Octa-
most elegant homes,
18th Street. For places to eat, head north up any
Avenue.
sells
and other handicrafts made by Native Americans.The base-
OtherThings to Do Nearby
nia
U.S. Geological
building. You can also
U.S. national parks at the National Park Service
Indian Craft Shop, across
silver jewelry, baskets,
ment
all)
on the E Street side of the
numbered
is
half a
block north on
street toward Pennsylva-
Zone U.S.
Georgetown
5:
229
Department of State Diplomatic Reception Rooms
Type of Attraction The rooms where
visiting foreign dignitaries are officially
enter-
tained (Guided tour)
Location 2201
C
Street,
N)
Nearest Metro StatioryT&Kgy Bottom/GVyU
Admission
Hours
Free
Tours are given MonBajr-f ridayW^SO
vation only; which should be
made 4 weeks
1
Comments
See what $90 million
on the
2 are not permitted
tour,
vations are accepted up to 90 days affairs
tour
is
(TDD)
in
decorative arts can buy. Children under
strollers, briefcases,
advance of your
visit.
A
or backpacks. Reser-
short, optional public
Group
— Grade school —
|
Description and
to Allow
****
.,Jto,ung adults
(
Author's Rating Although most
How Much Time
•••Vi
Teens
Preschool
in
in
nor are
offered after the main tour
Overall Appeal by Age
work
0:30 a.m., and 2:45 p.m., by reser-
site w^ww. state .gov/m/drr
Special age
1
(202) 736-4474
Pll^me42D^4Z;324J;fax(202) 736*4232;
Web
a.m.,
advance.
in
I
Comments
tourists miss this,
|
Over 30
|
Seniors
••••• *****
*****
you shouldn't.
hour While the State Department goes about
its
important
a building with architecture best described as "early airport," the interiors
eighth floor are something else entirely:
A
nineteenth-century fine and decorative arts
fills
rooms
stunning
receive visiting heads of state and foreign dignitaries. This
is
overwhelming majority of in
DC. tourists
that are used daily to
a tour for
antique and fine arts lovers, history buffs, and just casual visitors.
get reservations well
on the
fabulous collection of eighteenth- and early
miss. First-time visitors should
advance of their trip.Then forget about
almost anyone:
also a sight that the
It's
visiting
make the effort to the White House.
Touring Tips By guided tour only; reservations are required and should be made at least four weeks in advance of your visit. Rest rooms are located near the waiting room and can be
and after the tour
visited before
Other Things to Do Nearby The Lincoln Memorial and Vietnam Veterans Memorial are a short walk away, down 23 rd Street to the Mall. The closest places to eat are a few blocks up 23rd Street, away from the
Zone
Mall.
Georgetown
5:
Dumbarton Oaks and Gardens Type of Attraction A mansion/museum and
garden (Self-guided
a beautiful terraced
tour)
Location
1
703 32nd Street, between R and S Streets,
Admission $ donation I
suggested for adults
seniors and children for the gardens March
1
NW, in Georgetown
for the museum. $6 fee for adults, $4 for 5-October only; free admission for the
rest of the year.
Hours Museum hours
are Tuesday-Sunday, 2-5 p.m.
permitting) Tuesday-Sunday,
November-March 14,2-5
The garden p.m.,
and
is
until
open (weather 6 p.m. the rest
230
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
museum and gardens
of the year. Both the Eve, and
Mondays.The gardens area
Phone
(202) 339-6400
are closed on federal holidays, Christmas
also closed during inclement weather.
is
Web site www.doaks.org When to Go Anytime Comments
Special
museums
best
Don't be put
Washington. There
in
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
off is,
Teens
|
*
Young
|
Hovy Much Time to Allow Description and however,
it's
Over 30
••••
|
Seniors
*->?**
****
Most people associate Dumbarton Oaks with the pre-Columbian studies owned by Har-
one of the world's
is
finest, featuring
and jewelry.The exquisite pre-Columbian art collection
connected, circular glass pavilions
garden
|
***i/2
a research center for Byzantine and
barton Oaks Gardens is
is
lit
by natural
light. It's
located around the corner on
one of the top gardens
rated
one of the
is
1944 that led to the formation of the United Nations. Today,
vard University.The Byzantine collection ivories,
this
2 hours
Comments in
••Vi
adults
Author's Rating Intimate and gorgeous.
conference held here
—
Group
—
Grade school
by the hushed surroundings
however, no eatery and picnics are not allowed.
in
rose garden, wisteria-covered arbors and,
in
housed
is
in
bronzes,
eight inter-
knockout of a museum. DumR Street.The terraced ten-acre
a
the United States, featuring an orangery, a the
fall,
backdrop of trees turning
a blazing
Dumbarton Oaks isn't the kind of museum with much appeal and some adults may not find much of interest in the collection due
orange, yellow, and red. to small children,
to
its
visit
narrow
when
focus. But
TouringTips combine your visit,
combined with the adjacent gardens,
it's
a
worthwhile place to
Georgetown.
in
Because Dumbarton Oaks doesn't open visit
with a morning trip to Georgetown.
try to rearrange your schedule so
its
If it's
massive doors
until
raining the day
you plan to
you can come on a nice
2 p.m.,
day; the gardens are
terrific.
Other Things to Do Nearby byists, politicians,
ington
live. If
how
lob-
you made advance reservations to see Tudor House, Dumbarton Oaks
makes a great
side trip.
you won't have to go Canal, which starts
Zone
Take a walking tour of Georgetown and see
media gurus, and other well-connected and monied denizens of Wash-
6:
in
When
you get hungry, turn
far to find
left
or right on Wisconsin Avenue and
an interesting restaurant or cafe.The Chesapeake
Georgetown, can
offer near wilderness solace to
weary
& Ohio
tourists.
Dupont Circle/Adams-Morg an
The Brewmaster*s Castle (also known as The Christian Heurich House Museum) Type of Attraction The
lavish
home
of a wealthy turn-of-the-century Washington
businessman (Guided tour)
Location
1
307
New
Hampshire Avenue,
Nearest Metro Station Dupont
Admission $5 per
NW (two blocks south of Dupont Circle)
Circle
person; suggested donation
1
Zone Hours Wednesday
at
and can be made by
calling (202)
1
2:
1
6:
Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan
5 p.m. and 1:15 p.m.
Group tours
23
are by reservation only
429-1894.
Phone (202)429-1894
Web
www.Heurichhouse.org
site
Comments
Special
Don't be put
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
off
by the grimy exterior.
Group
—
Teens •Va
|
Over 30
\
Seniors
|
Grade school
*
Young
|
adults i^ifVi
Author's Rating An outrageous Gilded Age
How Much Time
to Allow
Description and
Comments
create
and
full
It's
doubtful that any
balcony that
lets live
Washington shouldn't
a later trip.
People
Touring Tips bag lunch. The
who
The
public
feel obligated
in
is
4 p.m., weather permitting; enter
in
Other Things to Do Nearby
to spend time here,
Trendy
it
is
open spring through at 1921
Walk
cafes, shops,
1
1
to
first floor. It
Washington. While most first-time
museum
small garden behind the
Victorian
side:
the early
love decorative arts should put
Garden
bohemian
built in
music be heard throughout the
may be the most opulent home open to the visitors to
***
amount of money could re890s: a regal, 3 -room mahogany and oak woodwork, elaborate plaster mold-
of richly detailed
a musician's
interior.
hour
what wealthy brewer Christian Heurich
mansion ings,
I
••• ***
it's
on their "A"
worth
a look
a popular spot for a fall,
on
list.
on weekdays
brown-
10 a.m. to
Sunderland Place.
Dupont
Circle for a whiff of Washington's
bookstores, and restaurants crowd Connecticut
Avenue. Expect to be panhandled about every 50 feet
in fair
weather; the street mer-
chants crowding around the Metro entrances suggest a Middle East bazaar. Note:
Good
deals can be had.
House of the Temple A
Type of Attraction
Masonic temple modeled after one of the Seven Wonders of
the World (Guided tour)
Location 1733
16th Street,
NW
Nearest Metro Station Dupont
Admission
Hours Guided
Phone
Circle
Free tours Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-2 p.m.
(202) 232-3579
Web site www.srmason-sj.org/web/temple.htm When to Go Anytime Special
Comments
way too
long.
Unless you have an abiding interest
Overall Appeal by Age
Teens
•
Over 30 |
|
*
Young
|
Author's Rating Spectacular but
How Much Time to Allow below).
Freemasonry, the tour
is
Group
Preschool —
Grade school
in
cold.
adults
*
Seniors
|
• *
*
2 hours (less
if
you're willing to
fib
to the tour guide; see
232
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Comments
Description and
The
walls are 8 feet thick; the exterior
by 33 massive columns that support a magnificent pyramidal roof; and,
Room
surrounded
is
inside, the
Temple
features a soaring 100-foot ceiling and 1,000-pipe organ. Unfortunately, with the
exception of the exterior, you have to take an excruciatingly boring guided tour to see these goodies.YouVe guaranteed to be bored orabilia belonging to long-dead J.
silly
by displays of bric-a-brac and
Masonic leaders. There
is
one
Edgar Hoover Law Enforcement Room, a shrine to the Mason and lifelong FBI
But unless you're a rabid fan of J. Edgar, after about two minutes
Touring Tips
Arrive around
on
p.m.
I
mem-
you'll
a quiet afternoon and
be
tell
.
.
.
chief.
bored.
the tour guide
may
you've got to catch a train at 2:30. Then plead for an abbreviated tour, which he grudgingly provide
if
there aren't any other tourists on-hand for a tour. But even
reduced to an hour, the tour
too
is
Other Things to Do Nearby safe
long.
The House
of the Temple
on the edge of a marginally
is
neighborhood, so make a beeline toward Dupont Circle, where
do. Six blocks
the
slightly bizarre treat:
you'll find plenty
to
west on S Street are theTextile Museum and the Woodrow Wilson House.
Islamic Center Type of Attraction A mosque
(Self-guided tour)
Location 2551 Massachusetts Avenue,
Nearest Metro Station Dupont
Admission
Free
Hours Monday-Saturday, non-Muslims between
Phone
When
NW
Circle
I
10 a.m.-5 p.m. and Sunday, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.; closed Fridays to
p.m. and 2:30 p.m.
(202) 332-8343
Go Anytime. Call ahead for a guided tour. Comments The mosque enforces a strict dress
to
Special
their shoes to
go
inside,
coderVisitors must
and no shorts or short dresses are allowed.
remove
Women
must
cover their heads and wear long-sleeved clothing.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
•
Preschool
Teens JrVi
Over 30
|
|
Grade school
*!/2
Author's Rating Exotic and
How Much Time to Allow Description and this unusual sight
Young
|
adults
surprisingly small. 1
***
Seniors
|
*V2
5 minutes
Comments A
brilliant
white building and slender minaret mark
on Embassy Row. Visitors must remove
their shoes before stepping
inside to see the Persian carpets, elegantly embellished columns,
decorated arches, and
huge chandelier Alas, with America's focus on the Middle East and things
were disappointed on our
visit
to the Islamic Center:
useful insight into that troubled part of the world.
mosque was
filled
•• **
It fell
The
a
little
Islamic,
we
short on giving any
small bookstore next to the
with Arabic texts and translations of the Koran, but no one was
behind the counter to answer our questions.Though close to other tourist
sights,
the
mosque seems to have missed an opportunity to educate D.C. visitors about Islam. Those with a strong interest in the Middle East should call a week in advance for the one-hour guided
Touring Tips
tour.
Make
this small, exotic building a part of a
But unless you have an interest
in
Islam,
it's
walk down Embassy Row.
not worth going out of the way to see.
Zone Other Things to Do Nearby the
Woodrow
open. The
Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan
Take a short walk and tour the Textile
On
Wilson House.
6:
233
Museum and
Tuesday through Saturday afternoons, the opulent
Anderson House
is
that's a refreshing
change of pace from huge Mall museums.
Phillips
Collection
is
an intimate
modern
art
museum
Meridian International Center Type of Attraction played
in
2 mansions designed by John Russell Pope; art exhibitions dis-
beautiful galleries;
handsome gardens and
a grove of linden trees (Guided and
self-guided tours)
Location
1
Admission
624 and
1
630 Crescent
Hours Wednesday-Sunday, 2-5 The
cafe
Phone
is
Place,
NW
Free p.m. Closed Mondays, Tuesdays, and federal holidays.
open Monday-Friday, noon-2 p.m.
(202) 939-5568
Web site www.meridian.org When to Go Anytime Special
Comments
Call
ahead of time or check
Washington Post to make sure the center
out what's on display
in
section of the
the galleries.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
•
Preschool
"Weekend"
Friday's
closed (due to a conference) and to find
isn't
Teens irVi
Over 30
|
••
|
Grade school
ifVi
Young adults
\
Author's Rating Grand architecture and
• •1/2 How Much Time
to Allow
Description and
Comments Two
Pope
I
**
Seniors irifVi
|
a glimpse into the
world of diplomacy.
hour side-by-side mansions designed by John Russell
(architect of the Jefferson Memorial, the National Gallery of
Art
building,
and
other Washington treasures) make up the Meridian International Center, a nonprofit organization that promotes conferences, symposiums, lectures, and seminars and provides services to international visitors, diplomats, scholars, politicians, and others.
The 45-room Meridian House (1921) reflects an eighteenth-century French Louis style of architecture, while the White-Meyer House (1911) is a salmon-color brick, Georgian-style mansion. Visitors are welcome to tour the ground floors of the gorgeous though lightly furnished buildings and the surrounding gardens. About five art exhibits a year rotate through the galleries of the White-Meyer House. The XVI
—
—
three-acre
site,
set off
from the
city
by high, elegant walls, takes up an entire city
block.
Touring Tips While folks who enjoy grand architecture won't need additional encouragement to visit these two distinguished buildings, others should plan on coming in the spring when the gardens are in bloom and an art exhibition is on display in the elegant galleries. A small cafe in the basement of the Meridian House (which recently underwent a two-year, $ .8 million restoration) offers coffee, tea, and lunch. For a 1
guided tour of the property, just ask at the front desk
Other Things to Do Nearby hood renowned
for
its
Adams-Morgan, an
ethnic eateries,
is
only
in
either building.
eclectic multicultural neighbor-
two blocks away on
18th Street,
NW.
234
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Phillips Collection
Type of Attraction The
first
museum
dedicated to
modern
art
in
the United States
(Self-guided tour)
Location
1
600 2
1
NW
st Street,
Nearest Metro Station Dupont
Circle
Admission Weekends: $8
$6 seniors 62+ and
for visitors 18 and
same
adults,
full-time students.
No
under During the week, the museum suggests contributions
charge at the
level.
Hours
Open Thursday
Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday, noon-5 p.m.
8:30 p.m. Closed Mondays,
New Year's
Day, Memorial Day, Fourth of
July,
until
Day, Martin Luther King,Jr.'s birthday. Presidents
Labor Day, Columbus Day, Thanksgiving, and Christ-
mas Days.
Phone (202)387-2151
Web site www.phillipscollection.org When to Go Anytime Comments
Special
a very comfortable
With
and places to
lots of carpeting
museum
to tour
The
cafe
the
sit,
Phillips
Collection
closed temporarily as the
is
is
museum
undergoes renovation and expansion.
Group
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool —
Grade school
Young
|
Author's Rating One of the best
How Much Time to Allovyr Description and
Comments
|
Over 30
|
Seniors
***i/2
museums
in
Washington.
Founded by Duncan
Company, the
helps explain
large for everything to
too
art
adults
•••• ****
****
2 hours
of the Jones and Laughlin Steel
mer mansion, which
••
Teens
|
*
its
Phillips
Phillips,
Collection
grandson of the founder set
is
in
the family's for-
intimate and comfortable feeling.The collection
be on display at once, so the art
is
is
constantly rotated.
Expect to see works by Monet, Picasso, Miro, Renoir, and Van Gogh, among other modRoom is as spectacular as the art hanging on
ern masters. The large and ornate Music its
walls.
If
you've seen the Hirshhorn and the National Gallery of Art's East Wing, this
should be on your agenda.
The
TouringTips free,
kids
It's
a classy
museum on
would probably prefer
45-minute guided tours given Saturdays
good job of
in
modern
human
at 2 p.m.
giving a context for the paintings
founder's taste
a
scale.
a trip to the zoo.Take advantage of the
The well-informed guides do
and sculptures, the
building,
Cross Massachusetts Avenue and see another eye-
popping mansion, the Anderson House (open Tuesday through Saturday from p.m.).
isfy
Dupont
a
its
art.
Other Things to Do Nearby 4
and
I
p.m. to
Circle hosts a myriad of cafes, restaurants, and fast-food joints to sat-
hunger pangs.
Society of the Cincinnati
Museum
at Anderson
Type of Attraction A combination mansion and guided tour)
Location 2118 Massachusetts Avenue,
NW
Revolutionary
House War museum
(Self-
Zone
6:
Nearest Metro Station Dupont
Admission
Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan
235
Circle
Free
Hours
Tuesday-Saturday, 1—4 p.m. Closed national holidays.
Phone
(202) 785-2040
Web site www.thesocietyofthecincinnati.addr.conn When to Go Anytime Special tles;
Comments
older folks
Children
Overall Appeal by Age
Author's Rating
•• ** Robber-baron decadence. ****
How Much Time
to Allow
Description and
Comments
Grade
Teens
Young
|
adults
in
served
the
billiard
whose members
Row
906 by Larz Anderson, a diplomat,
•••• ****
is
a real sleeper
it's
a reflection of
The two-story ballroom
a stunner;
is
room; and paintings by Gilbert Stuart and
room. Anderson was
a
member
of the Society of the
are descendants of French and American officers
the Revolutionary Army. After
in
Seniors
This mansion along Embassy 1
tapestries line the crystal chandeliered dining in
Over 30
|
hour
I
fabulous turn-of-the-century taste and wealth.
John Trumbull hang
|
\
that few visitors ever see. Built
Cincinnati,
figurines fighting bat-
Group
• school **
Preschool
War
love the Revolutionary
will
marvel at the opulence.
will
his death, his
widow donated
who
the mansion to
the society. Today the building serves the society as both headquarters and museum.
Even first-time visitors to D.C. should make the effort to see
which
is
The
TouringTips second
Dupont
located a block or so from first
mansion,
floor contains displays of Revolutionary War artifacts.
the mansion remains as
floor,
this spectacular
Circle.
it
was
originally furnished, with
On
the
eighteenth-
century paintings, seventeenth-century tapestries from Brussels, and huge chandeliers.
OtherThings to Do Nearby around Dupont tion
(modern
Circle. art),
Woodrow Wilson Textile
Other
Take a walk along Embassy
Row
or browse the shops
sights within walking distance include the Phillips Collec-
Heurich Mansion, the Textile Museum, and the
the Christian
House.
Museum
Type of Attraction A museum Location 2320
S Street,
dedicated to textile arts (Self-guided tour)
NW
Nearest Metro Station Dupont
Admission
Free;
Hours Monday-Saturday, December
Circle
$5 donation suggested 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday. 1-5 p.m.
Closed federal holidays and
24.
Phone (202)667-044!
Web site www.textilemuseum.org When to Go Anytime Special ahead ends
if
Comments you have
at 1:30 p.m.,
The museum
is
wheelchair accessible but not barrier free. Call
special needs. Introductory tours are offered
September through May.
Wednesdays and week-
236
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
Preschool —
Grade school Author's Rating
Teens |
*
Young
|
Interesting, but small
How Much Time to Allow Description and longer enjoys
|
Over 30
|
Seniors
**i/2
irirVi
***
**
and esoteric.
hour
I
Comments
much
••
adults
commodity
Cloth, a mass-produced
prestige as an art form. But
it's
a different story
world. The museum's collection ranges from countries as diverse as
and China to Mexico, Guatemala, and Peru.
Intricate designs
and
in
in
the West, no
the rest of the
India, Indonesia,
rich colors grace
more
than 14,000 textiles and 1,400 carpets dating from ancient times to the present day.
Because the items can't be exposed to constantly rotated.This
museum
is
light for
much more
long periods of time, the exhibits are
interesting than
ors derived from natural dye processes and elaborate details beautiful. Definitely for distinct tastes,
Touring Tips
In
the
new
but not to be missed
if it
sounds
—the
rich col-
the fabrics are subtly
appeals to you.
second-floor Textile Learning Center, visitors can touch, an opportunity to get a better grip on
feel,
and examine
why
textiles are cultural carriers that reveal a lot
textiles close up.
pleasant garden behind the
it
in
It's
museum. The
gift
about
shop
how
is
people
live.
chock-full of
how and
Don't miss the
books and items
related to textiles and rugs.
OtherThings to Do Nearby Center
is
The Woodrow Wilson House
around the corner on Massachusetts Avenue.
In
is
next doorThe Islamic
the other direction, S Street
crosses Connecticut Avenue, where you can shop and dine to your heart's content.
Woodrow Wilson House Type of Attraction The Location 2340
S Street,
final
home
Nearest Metro Station Dupont
Admission $5
adults;
of the 28th U.S. president (Guided tour)
NW Circle
$4 seniors 62+; $2.50 students; free ages 6 and under
Hours
Tuesday-Sunday, 10 a.m.^ p.m. Closed Mondays and national holidays.
Phone
(202) 387-4062
Web site www.woodrowwilsonhouse.org When to Go To avoid a crowded tour during spring and summer, arrive before noon. Comments
Special
Lots of
stairs, including a steep,
narrow descent down
a back
staircase.
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
Grade school Author's Rating
Group
•
Teens
|
**
|
Young
••• ***
Interesting and informative.
How Much Time to Allow
|
adults
|
Over 30 •••1/2 Seniors ***i/2
***i/2
1-2 hours
Description and Comments After Woodrow Wilson left office in 1921, he became the only former president to retire in Washington, DC. and he did so in this house. The tour starts with a 25-minute video narrated by Walter Cronkite that puts
—
this
underrated president
cent of the items
in this
in
perspective and fires you up for the tour Ninety-six per-
handsome Georgian
get an accurate picture of aristocratic
life in
Revival
the
1
townhouse are
920s.
On
original,
so visitors
the tour you'll see Wilson's
Zone library (his books,
room,
however, went co the Library of Congress after
movie projector, and
his old
The basement
Touring Tips
inside the pantry,
somewhere
Other Things to Do Nearby
special
The
and
day,
with
and gas-fired stove. Peek
a coal-
is
Museum
Textile
in
another tour that gives
visitors
beaten tourist track.
off the
around the corner on Massachusetts Avenue, and
is
next door. Embassy
Row
is
the other direction, Connecticut
bustles with shops and restaurants.
Zone
7:
Millwood
Upper Northwest
Museum and Gardens
Type of Attraction A mansion housing tours) and formal gardens
on
fabulous art treasures (guided or self-guided
a 25-acre estate (guided and self-guided tours)
Location 4155 Linnean Avenue,
NW
Nearest Metro Station Van Ness/UDC. For Connecticut Avenue past the StarTrek-y
entrance.
Or
a pleasant 20-minute walk,
Intelsat
Upton to Linnean, turn
Street. Follow
complex on the
right,
right,
go south on
then turn
left
on
and walk about a block to the estate
grab a cab.
Admission $12
for the house tour;
for full-time students;
Hours
bed-
stocked with items from the 1920s such as Kellogg's Corn Flakes
still
the feeling they've been
Upton
his death), his
unchanged from Wilson's
virtually
is
wooden icebox and
("wonderfully flavored with malt, sugar and salt").This
Avenue
237
beautiful furnishings.
kitchen
such as an ornate
original items
Upper Northwest
7:
$10 seniors 65+, $5 children ages 6-18, and $7
no children under age 6 permitted.
Tuesday-Saturday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Closed Sunday, Monday, the
month of January
and most federal holidays.
Phone
(202) 686-8500 or (877) hillwood; (202) 686-5807 for reservations
Web site v/ww.hillwoodmuseum.org When to Go Spring the most beautiful is
season to tour the house and gardens. But
these are popular destinations for garden clubs, so you must secure reservations well in
advance. Because of Millwood's
degrees cooler here
Special
in
Comments
wooded
location
in
Rock Creek
Self-guided audio tours are offered
from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. A docent-led tour
is
Preschool
— — Stunning.
Teens
|
Young
|
five
from 9:30 a.m. to noon, and
is
also available ($5).
•• *•*
Over 30 ••••^/z
|
adults
Seniors
|
****i/2
****V2
How Much Time to Allow n't
always
Group
Grade school Author's Rating
it's
offered daily from 12:30 p.m. to 2 p.m.; specify
your preference when making reservations. A children's audio tour
Overall Appeal by Age
Park,
hot and humid summers.
D.C.'s
2 hours.The guided tour
itself
is
over an hour but does-
include the formal gardens and auxiliary buildings.
Description and things
from her
Comments
father:
good
Marjorie Merriweather Post,
remodeled the mansion, and
She was a
girl
from Michigan
taste and General Foods. That,
who bought
filled it
French and Russian decorative
art.
this
in
who
a nutshell,
Rock Creek Park
inherited is
estate
two
the story of in
1
955. She
with exquisite eighteenth- and nineteenth-century
"Fabulous"
is
required to describe the collection of
238
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
on
Imperial Russian objects
Russia
the 1930s
in
—
Mrs. Post
display.
Revolution art at bargain prices. Mrs. Post jewels, dinner plates
Faberge,and chalices
U.S.
ambassador to
bought warehouse-loads of
literally
stuff:
commissioned by Catherine the Great, Easter eggs by Carl and icons. She then had the loot loaded onto her yacht. Sea Cloud
(the largest private ship
on
was married to the
the communists were unloading "decadent," pre-
when
a time
in
home.The very best
the world), for shipment
of the booty
is
display here. The tour provides a glimpse into Mrs. Post's lavish lifestyle.
Touring Tips Advance reservations are required to tour the mansion. Call at least two months in advance for a spring tour, although you may luck into a cancellation by calling a day or two before your planned visit. Children under age 6 are not admitted on the tour Plan your visit so that you have enough time to stroll the gardens. The estate also has a cafe that serves lunch and tea, a
tour A "Behind the Scenes" tour
offered
is
shop, and a greenhouse you can
gift
at 3 p.m., June through
Wednesdays
March
Wednesday of the month; $10 per person). Visitors get a glimpse of it was run when Mrs. Post lived here by touring the fallout shelter, the mas-
(except the
first
Millwood as
sage room, the silver-polishing room, and other places not seen on the regular house
tour Reservations are suggested for the small
OtherThings to Do Nearby like a building
Intelsat,
cafe.
international conglomeration that produces satellites.
prototypes of
its
Ness/UDC Metro
near the Van
no
late twenty-first century.That's
out of the
products hanging from the
station, looks
surprise, since the firm
The lobby
is
an
features models and
For lunch, there are plenty of
ceiling.
restaurants to choose from near the Metro station on Connecticut Avenue.
National
Museum
Type of Attraction A Location
On
of Health and Medicine museum
medical
16th Street and Georgia Avenue,
Hours
Park.
If
Park, Maryland
you have a
car, drive.
Free
Daily, 10
a.m.-5:30 p.m. Closed Christmas Day. Docent-led tours are offered
on the second and fourth Saturdays of the month
Phone
Medical Center, located between
Army
NW, nearTakoma
Nearest Metro Station Takoma
Admission
(Self-guided tour)
the grounds of Walter Reed
at
I
p.m.
(202) 782-2200
Web site http://nmhm.washingtondc.museum When to Go Anytime Connments
Special est
Unless you're a health professional or harbor an intense inter-
the history of medicine, this small but fascinating
in
to get
to. Wait a
few years
Overall Appeal by Age
until
Teens
|
**
Young
|
Author's Rating Some excellent
some
as
it
used to be,
it's still
How Much TInne to Allow Description and epidemic make bottled
human
this
museum
is
simply too
difficult
relocates to the Mall.
Group
Preschool —
Grade school
it
a
|
Over 30
|
Seniors
exhibits, but a bit unsettling.
not a place for the squeamish. I
Comments museum
••V2
adults **!/2
irirVi
**y2
Though not
as grue-
**
hour Excellent exhibits on the
human body and the AIDS
worthwhile destination. Although there are
still
plenty of
organs, skeletons, and graphic illustrations of the effects of disfiguring
Zone
the Civil
War
probably have
will
professionals.
We're
Touring Tips to the
more
appeal to physicians, scientists, and other health
glad to report that the
museum
appearance since our
first visit.
overall
its
has improved the quality of
Finding this place can be tough. By subv/ay,
museum from theTakoma
Dahlia Street and turn
Walter Reed
left.
is
about
six
directly behind the large white hospital building;
museum
Avenue. The
located
is
a brisk 15-minute
walk
Blair
Road. Walk one block to
blocks straight ahead. The
you can walk around
it
museum
on the
left
If
Reed complex through the Dahlia Street gate on Geor-
you're driving, enter the Walter gia
it's
its
Park Metro station. As you exit the station, turn right
and walk under the railroad tracks, then turn right at
is
239
and an extensive microscope collection (including huge electron
microscopes)
exhibits and
Upper Northwest
from the bizarre to education. Exhibits on medicine
diseases, the emphasis has shifted in
7:
in
the south end of Building 54 (behind the large
white hospital building). There's a small parking
OtherThings to Do Nearby
lot
next to the museum.
Nothing recommended due to lackluster location.
National Zoological Park (part of the Smithsonian Institution)
-^—
Type of Attraction
~~^
The^Sfhithsonian's world-class
Location 3001 Connaa;icut Avenue,
zoo
^^ (Seif»gulded tour)
NW
)
Nearest Metro Statiof^s^Woodley Park/National Zoo, Cleveland Park
Admission
Hours 1
Free
April
1
a.m.-6 p.m.;
open
3-October
November
3 I
I
:
grounds are open 6 a.m.-8 p.m. and buildings are open
-April
1
2:
grounds are open 6 a.m.-6 p.m. and buildings are
10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. The Poilinarium and the invertebrate exhibits are closed Tues-
days. The park
Phone
is
closed Christmas Day only.
(202) 673-4800 (24-hour recording); (202) 673-7800
Web site http://nationalzoo.si.edu When to Go Anytime. In the summer, afternoons.
In
avoid going during Washington's sweltering
the spring, avoid visiting between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. weekdays,
many school buses Special
(TDD)
full
Comments
when
of children arrive.
Many
sections of the paths winding through the Zoo's 163 acres
are steep.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
••••• Grade school ***** Preschool
Author's Rating
A
it all.
Young
|
first-rate
How Much Time to Allow day to see
Teens
|
operation
in
***!/2
|
Over 30
•••Vi
|
Seniors
***!/2
a beautiful setting.
****V2
2 hours just to seethe most popular attractions; a whole
Better yet, see the
Description and
••••
adults
Comments
Zoo
over several
visits.
The National Zoo emphasizes
natural environment,
many animals roaming large enclosures instead of pacing in cages. And it's all found in a lush woodland setting in a section of Rock Creek Park. Two main paths link the many buildings and exhibits: Olmstead Walk, which passes all the animal houses, and the steeper Valley Trail, which includes all the aquatic exhibits. They add up to about two miles of trail. The Zoo's nonlinear layout and lack of sight lines make a map invaluable; pick one up at the Education Building near the entrance for a buck.The most popular
with
exhibits include the elephants, the great apes, the white tiger, the cheetahs, and the giant
pandas,TianTian and Mei Xiang.
240
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
some
But for diversity and a good chance of seeing Small
Mammal House,
and the huge outside bird cages (the condors look the to Washington
a
is
itinerary.
welcome
size ofVolkswragens).
Aside from a wide variety of
wildlife
make
If
your
visit
this beautiful
on view, the wooded
from viewing too much marble downtown.
relief
more active, some exhibits other words, you may have
Plan to visit either early or late in the day. Animals are
Touring Tips
temperatures are cooler
—and crowds
are thinner During busy periods,
are subject to "controlled access" to prevent crowding;
to wait
check out the
activity,
long enough to include forays away from the Mall,
is
park part of your setting
animal
the invertebrate exhibit (kids can look through microscopes),
in line.
If it
rainy,
is
in
exhibits can be found along
most of the indoor
Olmstead
Walk. Feedings and demonstrations occur throughout the day at the cheetah, elephant, seal,
and sea
lion exhibits;
Don't miss three
check at the Education Building for times.
new permanent
exhibits: Pollinarium,ThinkTank,and the
Science Gallery. Pollinarium, a lush garden housed
in
a
1
Amazonia
,250-square-foot greenhouse,
features hundreds of zebra long-wing butterflies that flutter around as visitors get a
hand look
and the process of
at animal pollinators, plants,
beehive gives an up-close glimpse of the
Think Tank, a
1
activities
pollination.
first-
glass-enclosed
of thousands of honeybees.
5,000-square-foot exhibit that opened
answer the question. Can animals think?
A
Scientists
in
1995, attempts to
late
conduct demonstrations on language,
tool use, and social organization. Displays, artifacts, graphics, and videos cover topics
such as problem-solving in
ability,
brain size, and language. Four animal species are featured
the exhibit: orangutans, Sulawesi macaque monkeys, hermit crabs, and leaf-cutter ants.
The Amazonia Science Gallery explores the forest; a biodiversity
demonstration
scope and with displays of
lab
living beetles,
is
Amazon
rain
frog eggs, tadpoles, and boas.The two-meter-
diameter "Geosphere" globe uses projectors,
show
biological diversity of the
equipped with a working electron micro-
satellite
imagery, and
computer data to
seasonal changes, weather and land cultivation patterns, population distribution,
and other factors that affect
life
on
Other Things to Do Nearby your energy
level will
If
earth.
you've done the
be too depleted for much
Zoo
else:
justice,
Go
your feet
spots abound three blocks north on Connecticut Avenue; from there to the Cleveland Park Metro. But
if
will
hurt and
back to your room. Lunch it's
a short walk
you've got feet of steel, take the half-hour hike to
the National Cathedral.
Washington National Cathedral Type of Attraction The
sixth-largest cathedral
in
the world (Guided and self-guided
tours)
Location Massachusetts and Wisconsin Avenues,
Nearest Metro Station The Woodley hour w^lk; drive or take a
Admission
Hours
Zoo
statidn
is
about a
half-
^
cab.
Ffeer&uggested donations are $3 adultsr$2"seniors, and $
1
children.
Monday-Friday: 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m., tours 10-1 1:30 a.m. and 12:45-3:15 p.m.;
Saturday:
10
a.m.-4:30 p.m., tours
a.m.-6:30 p.m., tours 12:45-2:30 p.m.
Phone
NW
Park/National
10-11:30 a.m. and
Summer
12:45-3:15 p.m.; Sunday 8
hours: open weekdays until 8 p.m.
(202) 537-6200 or (202) 537-5596 for guided tour information; (202) 364-
6616 for touring
conflict info
or special events
Web site www.cathedral.org/cathedral When to Go Anytime
1
Zone Comments
Special
Teens •••'/a
|
Author's Rating
How Much Time
to
**
Young
|
AMow
If
massivVQothic
high altar; the ceiling
Seniors*****
|
hour
I
Description and Corrunents visit this
adults
•••••
Over 30
|
***** ***** A Gothic ma^JTCrpiece.
v^hen you
24
Take the optional 30- to 45-minute, docent-led tour.
•
Preschool
Northeast
Age Group
Overall Appeal by
Grade school
8:
you're been to Europe, you'll experience deja vu
catheidral.
It's
a tenth of a mile
from the nave to the
100 feet tiighrDon't miss the Bishop's Garden, modeled on a
is
medieval walled garden, or the Pilgrim Observation Gallery and a view of Washington
from the highest vantage point around
huge cathedral, but
this
in
the
just
city.
Small children
about anyone else
may not enjoy being dragged
will
enjoy
its
magnificent archi-
tecture and stone carvings.
Touring Tips
Docent-led tours are offered on weekdays. While the tours are free,
Remember
suggested donations are $3 for adults and $1 for children.
fortable shoes. Try to catch the free organ demonstration given
3:15 p.m. Carillon recitals are given on Sundays; times vary so visit
the grave of
Cathedral
through
isn't
safe,
Woodrow
call
Wilson, the only president buried
to
wear com-
Wednesdays
1:15 to
ahead. You can also in
Washington. The
well served by public transportation, but walking there takes
pleasant neighborhoods that are
half-hour stroll up Cathedral
home
to Washington's
elite: It's
you
about a
Avenue from the Woodley Park/National Zoo Metro.
OtherThings to Do Nearby
The National Zoo
National Cathedral, or take a cab. For lunch, walk
is
about
a half-hour
walk from the
two blocks north on Wisconsin
Avenue to Cleveland Park and choose among Thai, Chinese, Mexican, and
pizza restau-
rants.The best deals are at G.C. Murphy's, which features gyros, pita sandwiches, minipizzas, subs, pastries,
Zone
8:
and
Italian coffee.
Most items on the menu are under
$5.
Northeast
Basilica of the National Shrine of the /mmacu/ote Conception
Type of Attraction The religious structure in the
largest Catholic church in the U.S.
and the seventh-largest
world (Guided and self-guided tours)
Location 4th Street and Michigan Avenue, NE, on the campus of the Catholic Univerof America
sity
Nearest Metro Station Brookland/Catholic
Admission
University
Free
Hours November -March 3 I, daily 7 a.m.-6 p.m.; until 7 p.m. the rest of the year. a.m. and 1-3 p.m.; Sunday, Guided tours are conducted Monday-Saturday, 9-1 I
I
1:30-4 p.m.
Phone
(202) 526-8300
Web site www.nationalshrine.com When to Go Anytime Special
Comments
It's
a
huge cathedral and
it
requires a lot of walking
242
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
•
Preschool
•
Teens
*
Young
|
Sterile
How Much Time
to Allow
Description and
Comments A
its
and cold.
adults
hour
I
dome
huge, blue-and-gold onion
interiorYet the architecture
is
lean and stark,
and stained-glass windows look cartoonish. inspiring National Cathedral across
lends Byzantine
town. Sure
and many of the figures not
It's
in
big,
is
map
chapels. Instead, grab a Hall,
which
at the information
is
in
the mosaics
the same league with the awe-
though.
Skip the guided tour, which stops
enter Memorial
Seniors *i/2
|
massive cathedral, as does the wealth of colorful mosaics throughout
this
Touring Tips
*
*
Author's Rating
overtones to
•
Over 30 |
|
Grade school
in
every one of the dozens of
desk on the ground (crypt)
go up the
lined with chapels.Then
level
and
stairs (or elevator)
to
the Upper Church.
Other Things to Do Nearby
The Franciscan Monastery
is
and walk about four blocks. The Pope John Paul
museum open
to
all
faiths,
walk
a brisk, 20-minute
away: Continue past the Metro station on Michigan Avenue to Quincy Street, turn
right,
Cultural Center, an interactive
II
nearby. Call (202) 635-5400 for hours and directions.
is
free shuttle service to the center operates
from the Brookland/CUA Metro
weekends.The
on the ground
Basilica has a small cafeteria
level; a
better bet
station is
A
on
the Pizza
Hut on Michigan Avenue.
Franciscan Monastery and Gardens Type of Attraction A working monastery (Guided Location 1400 Quincy
Street,
Nearest Metro Station Brookland/Catholic left,
walk up to Michigan Avenue, turn
gan Avenue to Quincy Street, turn
Admission
left,
right,
University.
From the
station exit, turn
and walk over the bridge. Continue on Michi-
and walk four blocks.
Free
Hours Guided daily
tour)
NE
tours on the hour Monday-Saturday, 9 a.m.—4 p.m. (except at noon
and 9 a.m. on Tuesday); Sunday, 1-4 p.m.
Phone
(202) 526-6800
Web When to Go
site www.pressroom.com/~franciscan
Special
Anytime
Comments
low, dark passageways.
The tour
involves negotiating
A
number
limited
many narrow, steep
stairs
and
of wheelchairs are available for touring the
church and upper grounds.
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
Group
—
Teens |
Grade school **'/2 Author's Rating
•• **
adults
Beautiful architecture, peaceful
How Much Time to Allow Description and
Young
|
I
grounds
Over 30
|
Seniors
|
•• **
—and kind of spooky. **
hour
Comments
Built
around
1900 and
recently
restored, this
monastery has everything you'd expect:
quiet, contemplative formal gardens; a beautiful
church modeled after the Hagia Sophia
in Istanbul;
shrines and chapels found
in
and grounds dotted with replicas of
the Holy Land. What's really unusual
is
the sanitized crypt
Zone beneath the church, which
more Hollywood
is
run into Victor Mature wearing a toga.) is
positively
—
if
It's
—
ghoulish.
inauthentically
8:
Northeast
243
than Holy Land. (You almost expect to
catacombs under
a replica of the
Rome
As you pass open (but phony) grave
and
sites in
the walls, the guide narrates hair-raising stories of Christian martyrs eaten by
lions,
speared, stoned to death, beheaded, and burned at the stake. Shudder.
Touring Tips
If
you're driving, parking
from the monastery on tiful
1
4th Street.
gardens alone are worth the
—
let's
Avenue. For lunch,
The
catch our breath a Pizza
Hut
is
easy.
Two
parking lots are located across
you're visiting Washington
in
the spring, the beau-
trip.
OtherThings to Do Nearby Conception
If
Basilica of the National Shrine of the
—
just
is
Immaculate
past the Metro station on
Michigan
conveniently located near the Metro.
is
U.S, National Arboretum Type of Attraction A 444-acre
collection of trees, flowers, and herbs (Self-guided
tour)
Location 3501 NewYork Avenue, NE
How to Get There
NewYork Avenue from downtown and
Drive. Take
enter on the
service road on the right just past Bladensburg Road.
Admission
Free
Hours
Daily,
the
shop
gift
8 a.m.-5 p.m. The information center is
open weekdays,
National Bonsai and Penjing
mas
is
open weekdays, 8 a.m.-4:30
10 a.m.-3:30 p.m. and
Museum
is
open
10 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Closed
daily,
p.m.;
weekends, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. The
on Christ-
Day.
Phone
(202) 245-2726
Web site www.usna.usda.gov When to Go In the spring, fields lection
is
a treat
all
information on what's
Special
of azaleas are
in
bloom. The world-class bonsai col-
year Late July and August feature blooming aquatic plants. For more in
Comments
bloom
visit
v^ww.ars-grin.gov/na/.
The arboretum
mobbed
is
in
the spring; the rest of the year
is
usually tranquil.
Overall Appeal by Age
Grade school Author's Rating
Group
•
Preschool
Teens irVi
Over 30 ••'/i
|
|
irVi
Young
\
adults
**
Interesting and beautiful; hard to get to.
How Much Time to Allow
I
hour to
Seniors
|
***
**'/2
half a day.
Comments
With nine miles of roads and more than three miles Arboretum offers visitors an oasis of quiet and beauty for a drive or a stroll. Even people without green thumbs will marvel at the bonsai collection, whose dwarf trees are more like sculptures than plants. One specimen, a Description and
of walking paths, the U.S. National
Japanese white pine,
is
350 years
old. Folks
with limited time
who
enthusiasts, however, shouldn't spend their valuable touring hours
TouringTips of the year, safe,
it's
Flowering
dogwood and mountain
a fine place to
go for
a long
laurel
bloom
on
aren't gardening a
visit.
well into
May.The rest
walk.The surrounding neighborhoods aren't
so either drive or take a cab.
OtherThings to Do Nearby utes away by car.
The Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens
are only a few min-
244
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Zone
Southeast
9:
Anacostia
Museum
Smithsonian museum)
(a
Type of Attraction A museum
focusing on African-American history and culture
(Self-guided tour)
Anacostia
Location 1901 Fort
Place. SE.
How to GetThere
For specific information on where to board the buses and for the
schedule, stop at any
To Drive From where
Street. SE.
museum
the Mall, it is
information desk on the Mall or
(third traffic signal)
Road becomes
and turn righL Cross the
Street. SE,
signs to Martin Luther King
Road
Avenue
Jr.
and turn
lefL
about
Erie Street. In
Go
up the
hill
Daily. 10
Phone
(202) 287-3306
to
1
Ith Street Bridge
MLK Avenue
7th Street, SE,
Street
and
fol-
to Morris
where Morris
becomes Fort
of Southeast Washington
Place; the
is
unsafe for pedes-
at
the Castle on the
transf>ortation.
a.m.-5 p.m. Closed Christmas
Day
Web site http://anacostiasi.edu When to Go Anytime. But either call first or pick up a Mall to find out
exhibits:
(202) 287-3382.
Free
Hours
whats on view before making the
Comments
Special
I
Follow
(left lanes).
five blocks. Erie
museum is on the right. Because this part trians, we don't recommend taking public Admission
cali
take Independence Avenue east past the Capitol to Second
interseaed by Pennsylvania Avenue. Bear right onto Pennsylvania
Avenue and go to Nth low
in
This "neighborhood"
between shows, there
OveraJI Appeal by change throughout the
it's
museum
features
often very litde to see. so
is
Age Group year,
brochure
trip.
Since the
museum
not really possible to rate
temporary, special
call first.
features spedal exhibitions that
this
Smithsonian
facility's
appeal by
age group.
Author's Rating Again, temporary
How MuchTime
to Allow
Description and
Comments
Anacostia
Museum
I
exhibitions
make
a rating impossible.
hour Located on the high ground of old Fort Stanton, the
features changing exhibits on black culture and history and the
achievements of African Americans. Unfortunately for out-of-town
visitors,
it's
in
a
location that's difficult to reach.
Touring Tips either
call
the
To save yourself the frustration of
museum
first
or pick up a
Other Things to Do Nearby drive, but tia
is
you should
call in
a high-crime area.
advise visitors to
visit
It's
arriving
flyer at the CastJe
between major shows,
on the
Mall.
Frederick Douglass National Historic Site
is
a
short
advance to make reservations for the house tour Anacos-
okay to drive through during
on foot or
daylight,
but
it's
not an area
we
at nighL
Frederick Douglass National Historic Site Type of Attraction Cedar
Hill,
the preserved Victorian
home
of abolitionist, states-
man, and orator Frederick Douglass (Guided tour by reservation only)
Location 1411
How
to
W StreeL
GetThere
SE. in
Anacostia
Drive: Anacostia
is
unsafe for pedestrians day or nighL
From
the
Zone
9:
Southeast
Mali take Indepefvdence Avenoe east past the U-S. Caprto: to Seconc Street. It is
I
245
SL where
intersected by Pennsy+vania Avef>i>e. Bear aght cxito Pen nsy+vanta Avenue and go to
cum
StreeL Sf, and
Ith
Luther King
Jr.
Avenoe to
righL Cross the
W
Street.
SETjrr
parking lot on the nght.
"e
?-^-r
^"or^e'- cr:c'-
:.
—
e-
Ith Street
I
!eft
s
Rndge and go south on Haron
and go four Wocks to the
^t.'— cc
e
^/^ :-
Admission SI
Hours
C:":e
9
nanksgpnng
Phone
:::
:-
-It-:--.
.•..•.-.•.
SpeciaJ
ortheWSwh.duh5and$9
;•-
1-
:-„~,2.s
-5
:;."-.
Tours
D2/S.
reservacc
-ziiz- -
--•-..-=
-c-
/.
Comments 3c
"-s.^
i-'c -ese-.-a-
-c: tixe t'e '^evc :c -^'ac;
-SoJe;
byAge Group
Overall A.ppea.1
I
Author's Rating
--'c
—
i-...e
"
How Much Time
to Allow
Des.cription a.nd
Comments
in th
e.com, or stop at
- -I r
:e- :e'sc-
E.e-. :i.
Web site When to Go
center
c~ers a three-hour : :
5
visrtor
Seniors
•••^
***li
s
phjtL" rights
Touring Tips
-C»
i.
=_
Other Things to Do Nearby
Kenilworth Park and Aquatic Gardens Type
of Attraction
Location Arboret:-'-
90C
A.-
=
- -i-_c' :cs--.i
I'
z"
--€ \i'o-;al
246
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
How to GetThere New York Avenue.
Drive.
Go
south on Kenilworth Avenue from
Avenue and follow
Exit at Eastern
its
intersection with
signs to the parking lot off
Ana-
costia Avenue.
Admission
Hours
Free 7
Daily,
a.m.^
New Year's
p.m. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and
Days.
Phone (202)426-6905
Web site www.nps.gov/kepa When to Go June and July to see tropical plants and lotus.
Year-round
it's
water
the third Saturday
plants;
and
July
August
in July a water-lily festival is held.
a great place for bird -watching.
Comments
Special
hardy
see
to
On
The gardens are
located
in
a dangerous neighborhood. Don't
take public transportation.
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
Grade school
Group
•
Teens
|
**
Young
|
Author's Rating Unique.
•• ***
adults
I
Comments
hyacinth, lotus, and
bamboo, the gardens teem with
Come
It's
In
addition to pools
••• ***
an amazing place to
filled
with water
lilies,
water
wildlife
such as opossum, raccoon,
on
summer morning.
visit
a clear
the morning, before the heat closes up the flowers. Don't
in
take public transportation; the surrounding neighborhood
Other Things to Do Nearby by
Seniors
hour
Description and
Touring Tips
Over 30
|
***
How Much Time to Allov/
waterfowl, and muskrats.
|
unsafe. Drive or
is
The National Arboretum
is
go by cab.
only a few minutes away
car.
Washington Navy Yard Type of Attraction Three tours by reservation only;
Location 9th and
M
military
museums and
a U.S.
Navy destroyer
(Self-guided
(202) 433-6897)
call
Streets, SE,
on the waterfront
Nearest Metro Station Eastern Market. Because this is an unsafe neighborhood any time of day, we recommend that visitors either drive (parking is available inside the gate) or take a cab.
Admission
Free; reservations required for nonmilitary personnel
Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Closed weekends and
Hours
Phone Navy Museum,
(202) 433-4882; Marine
3534 (closed Tuesdays); Navy Art (open
until 5 p.m. in
the
Corps
Historical
Gallery, (202) 433-3815;
summer and
until
4 p.m.
in
federal holidays.
all
USS
Museum, (202) 433-
Barry, (202)
the winter; closed
433-3377
Monday and
Tuesday)
Web site wv/w.ndw.navy.mil/NavyYard/History When to Go Anytime. But unless you have military
ID,
advance reservations are
required.
Special
Comments A
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
nice contrast to the look-but-don't-touch Mall
museums.
Group
•
Grade school ***'/2
|
|
Teens
Young
••• **
adults
|
|
•• ***
Over 30 Seniors
Zone
How Much Time
to Allow 2 hours
Description and
Comments
ships,
undersea vehicles
Exhibits
Alvin
and
that kids (and wiry adults) can climb
the Navy
in
Trieste,
in,
is
a prerequisite for
side trip that
information
many
visit
Museum
decommissioned
hands-on, featuring
less
is
Corps mementos. The Navy Art Gallery artists.
A
is
first-time visitors
make. But kids
will
love
it.
museums
it's
not a
For current exhibition
www.history.navy.mil and click on "The Navy Museum."
—jumping
Navy Yard
off at the Metro's
station
too bad
It's
are so far off the beaten path, because there's a lot here to see and do.
OtherThings to Do Nearby
Zone
the mili-
in
and walking ten scary blocks to the Navy Yard entrance; drive or take a cab. these
museum
a small
strong interest
making the trek to the Washington Navy Yard, and
Don't make our mistake
TouringTips
include 14-foot-long
and, tied up at the dock, a
with paintings of naval actions painted by combat tary
Museum
working sub periscopes, a space capsule
destroyer to tour. The Marine Corps Historical exhibit cases and Marine
247
fun for kids; informative for adults. **'/2
Author's Rating Hands-on
model
Maryland Suburbs
10:
Nothing recommended.
Maryland Suburbs
10:
NASAIGoddard Space
Flight Visitor
Center (Zone lOD)
Type of Attraction NASA's 1,100-acre, campuslike facility in suburban including a small museum and other buildings (Self-guided and guided tours)
Maryland,
Location Greenbelt, Maryland
How to GetThere
Drive.
From downtown Washington, drive out
which becomes the Baltimore-Washington Parkway
(1-295). Take the
New York Avenue,
MD
193 East exit,
Beltway Drive about two miles past the Goddard Space
just past the Capital
Center's main entrance to Soil Conservation Road and turn
left.
Flight
Follow signs to the
visitor center.
Admission
Hours
Free
Tuesday-Friday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; Saturday-Sunday,
Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, and
1
2-4
p.m..
Closed Mondays,
New Year's Day
Phone (301)286-9041
Web site www.gsfc.nasa.gov When to Go Anytime Overall Appeal by Age
Group
•
Preschool
Teens
|
***
Grade school
Young
|
••• ***
adults
Author's Rating Informative but not convenient
How Much Time to Allow Description and
1
Comments
for
|
Over 30
|
Seniors
most
visitors.
think of
it
**V'2
hour for the tours; 2 hours for the Sunday bus tours
The
small
museum
inside the visitor center
as a mini-National Air
is
loaded
and
real
and Space Museum. Outside, some
real
with space hardware, including a space capsule kids can play satellites;
••• ***
in,
space
suits,
rockets used to put the hardware into outer space are on display. While most folks get their
fill
Greenbelt
and then some of spacecraft at the
facility
TouringTips
is
museum on
the Mall, a
visit
will
to NASA's
the icing on the cake for hard-core space cadets.
The
small
gift
shop
offers interesting
NASA-related items such
as post-
248
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
cards,
35mm
color
at 10 a.m., noon,
slides, posters,
and 2 p.m.
On
and publications. One-hour tours are given weekdays
the
first
and third Saturdays of the month, model rocket
launches are held on center grounds. Call the curator for details, (301) 286-9041.
Other Things to Do Nearby
Drive through the adjacent Agricultural Research
where the U.S. Department of Agriculture studies farm it's a rural oasis in the heart of animals and plants. The roads are narrow and quiet Maryland's suburban sprawl. The National Wildlife Visitor Center off nearby Powder Center, a collection of farms
—
Mill
Road features nature
displays
Museum
National Cryptologic Type of Attraction A
small
and hiking paths.
museum
(north of Zone lOD)
offering a glimpse into the secret
world of spies,
national defense, and ciphers (Self-guided tour)
Location The National Security Agency, on the grounds of Fort George G. Meade, about 30 minutes north of Washington and east of Laurel, Maryland (Route 32 and the Baltimore-Washington Parkway)
Admission
Free
Hours Weekdays,
9 a.m.-4 p.m. and the
first
and third Saturdays of each month, 10
a.m.-2 p.m. Closed federal holidays and Sundays.
Phone (301)688-5849
Web site www.nsa.gov/museum/index.cfm When to Go Anytime Comments A
Special
Washington
very small
museum
that will only appeal to a
narrow
slice
of
visitors.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
Preschool —
Teens •V2
|
*
Grade school
Young
|
Over 30
|
adults irVi
Seniors
\
irVi
**
Author's Rating Gee, a real World War German Enigma ciphering machine.Yet this tiny museum's greatest appeal may be its very existence:The National Security Agency (NSA) is the nation's largest spy organization and its most secretive. * II
—
How Much Time to Allow Description and headquarters
in
I
Comments
hour Tourists are barred from Central Intelligence
Langley, across the river
from Washington
in
Agency
suburban Virginia. Yet
not lost for visitors lusting for a peek into the world of cloaks and daggers.The hush-hush National Security Agency operates ciphers, and spies All Civil
in
a
the displays are
looks
(it
like
static;
II,
they include items such as rare books dating from paraphernalia, and the notorious Enigma, a
House, the
U.S. ambassador's residence in
uncovered
in
952.)
The new
high-tech
computer hackers. Outside, you get from Route
32.
NSA
1
526,
cipher
II.
in
a small theater
in
the museum.)
Don't miss the "bugged" Great Seal of the U.S. that hung
Touring Tips
1
German
Underwood on steroids) whose code was "broken" by World War (Spies, a film on code breaking during World
the story continuously on a TV
tells
dedicated to codes,
an ancient
the Poles and British during
War
museum
former motel overlooking the Baltimore- Washington Parkway.
War signal flags, KGB spy
machine
this tiny
all is
ultra-
is
called
Moscow. (The microphone-equipped
room
in
Spaso
seal
was
features spy devices used to guard against
a glimpse of the huge
"The Puzzle Palace" for
its
NSA
headquarters complex
secretiveness and worldwide
electronic eavesdropping capability.The agency's budget, by the way,
is
a secret.
Zone Other Things to Do Nearby Road
249
South on the Baltimore-Washington Parkway ar^ the
NASA/Goddard Space
National Wildlife Visitor Center and the Mill
Maryland Suburbs
10:
Flight
Center (Powder
exit).
National Wildlife Visitor Center (Zone lOD) Type of Attraction A museum 1
featuring wildlife research exhibits located
in
a
3,000-acre national wildlife refuge about 30 minutes north of Washington (Self-guided
tour)
Location Off Powder
Mill
Road, 2 miles east of the Baltimore-Washington Parkway,
south of Laurel, Maryland
Admission
Hours
Free
Daily, 10
a.m.-5:30 p.m. Closed Christmas Day.
Phone (301)497-5760
Web site http://patuxent.fws.gov/vcdefeult.html When to Go Anytime. Weekends are busier than weekdays. Special large
Comments
You'll
need a car to get here.
groups of schoolchildren on
field trips.
And
Call
there's
ahead
if
you'd rather avoid
no restaurant or snack bar on
the premises.
Overall Appeal by Age
Group
•••• Grade school **** Preschool
Author's Rating
Teens
|
Young
|
Static exhibits
Department of the ing
Interior
is
This
Mall, children are fascinated
weary from
^focus-
topics. While the static displays
won't
traipsing through Smithsonian edifices
wildlife habitats,
pond and
wildlife
natural wildlife habitat.
by taking a
wolves, whooping cranes, and
wildlife research.
"viewing pod" equipped with spotting scopes and binoculars
youngsters (and adults) observe
wildlife
by the U.S.
—dioramas, mostly—
other endangered species demonstrate the value of
A
the heart
by this place. Large dioramas on pollution, overpop-
and ocean degradation,
Touring Tips
museum operated
large, airy
with attractive exhibits
filled
accelerate the pulse rates of adults
ulation, forest
in
**V^
on a wide range of wildlife and environmental
on the
icirVi
Seniors icicVi
\
1-2 hours
Comments
Description and
Over 30
|
and stuffed animals, but a tranquil setting
of the hectic Washington-Baltimore corridor
How Much Time to Allow
•••
adults irirVi
stroll
on paved
lets
through a picture window overlooking acres of
it's
a nice day, enjoy the sights and sounds of real
trails
through woods and around ponds populated by
If
geese, ducks, and other animals that find refuge on the refuge. Thirty-minute narrated
tram rides with daily
a wildlife interpreter are offered
and $1 for children.
movie
On weekends
documentary
is
in
the spring and
fall
and
$3 for adults and $2 for seniors
wildlife films are
shown
in
the center's
theater.
Other Things to Do Nearby belt,
on weekends
from the end of June through August.The cost
Maryland,
is
The NASA/Goddard Space
only a few miles away; follow signs posted on
Flight
Center
Powder
Mill
in
Green-
Road near
the Baltimore-Washington Parkway. Folks looking for additional wildlife
outdoor enjoyment and the opportunity to see more
can drive a few miles north to the North Tract of the Patuxent Research
Refuge; take the Baltimore-Washington Parkway north
two
exits to
Route 198
east.
250 drive
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
one
mile,
and turn right onto Bald Eagle Drive to the Visitor Contact Station. The
8,100-acre tract features forest, wetlands, a wildlife viewing area (with an observation
tower), and eight miles of paved roads for car touring and bicycling. There are another ten miles of graded gravel roads for hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding. For
more information, call (410) 674-3304. The National Cryptologic Museum
is
located next to the huge National Security
Agency complex near the intersection of the Baltimore-Washington Parkway and Route 32; drive north on the parkway a few miles and follow the signs. For a large selection of fast-food options, take the parkway north a few miles to Route 97. 1
Zone
1 1
Virginia Suburbs
:
Mount Vernon
and Gardens (south of Zone
Estate
IC)
I
eighteenth-century Virginia plantation on
Type of Attraction George Washington's the Potomac River (Self-guided tour) 16 miles south of Washington
Location
Get There To
Hovy^ to ginia,
bear
right,
drive
from Washington, cross the 14th Street Bridge into Vir-
and get on the George Washington Memorial Parkway south. Continue
past National Airport into Alexandria,
Continue
straight; Washington Street
where the parkway becomes Washington Street. ])ecomes the Mount Vernon Memorial Parkway,
which ends at Mount Vernon.
s,^
Tourmobile offers four-hour, narrated bu^fours to Mount Vernon
October Departures are
at 10 a.m., 12 p.m., a'^d
daily.April
through
2 p.m. Tickets are $25 for adults and
$12 for children ages 3 to I. The price include!, admission to MountVernon. Call Tourmobile at (202) 554-5100 for more information. «Gray Line offers four-hour coach trips to MountVernon and Old Town Alexandria that cfepart daily at 8:30 a.m. from Union StaI
No tours are
tion.
$28 for 1
adults and
995 or
scheduled on NewYear's,Thaj^ksgiving,and Christmas Days. Fares are
$14
for children. For mor§4nformation,
call
Gray Line
at (202) 289-
wvwv.grayline.com.
visit
Admission
Estate and-G^rdgffsr$
adults,
II
$10.50 seniors 62+, $5 children ages
6-11, free ages 5 and under Gristmill: adults and seniors, $2 additional to Estate and
Gardens
tickets
or $4 purchased alone; children (6-1
I),
$1.50 additional or $2 pur-
chased alone; free ages 5 and under
Hours
All are
open every day of the
Christmas Day. Estate and Gar-
year, including
dens: April-August, 8 a.m.-5 p.m.; November-February, 9 ber,
a.m.^
p.m.;
March, Septem-
and October, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Gristmill: 10 a.m.-5 p.m.
Phone
(703) 780-2000
www.mountvernon.org Web When to Go Generally before site
1
a.m., especially in
hot weather But sometimes tour
and school buses arrive before the gates open, creating a the mansion.
When
around
longer hours are
Special
opens
Come
3 p.m.
in effect,
making
it
a
to buy tickets and tour
—and the
lines.
you must clear the grounds by 5:30 p.m.
Connments MountVernon
at 8 a.m.,
line
and you're sure to avoid the buses
is
probably the only major
prime place to
hit early in
DC.
attraction that
—
you have a car
hot weather
if
to get you there. During Christmas, the decorated mansion's seldom-seen third floor
open to the
public.
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
Grade school
Group
•• ****
|
|
Teens
Young
•••
adults
****l/2
|
Over 30
|
Seniors
••••• *****
is
Zone
:Virginia
I
Suburbs
25
^****
Author's Rating Nofllo be missed.
How Much Time
I
to Allow 2 hours
Description and Comirients
Folks «^n a quick trip to Washington won't have time
Mount Vernon, but everypne,jefse should. The stunning view from the mansion across the Potomac River is pretty much the same as it was in Washington's day. Unlike most historic sites in D.C.. MountVernon gives visitors a real sense of how eighteenthto
visit
century rural
life
worked, from the
first
president's foot-operated fan chair (for keeping
he read) to the rustic kitchen and outbuildings. Historic interpreters
at bay while
flies
are stationed throughout the estate and mansion to answer questions and give visitors
an overview of the property and Washington's
MountVernon
more
is
den tours leave
at
Mount Vernon"
is
I
a
I
a.m..
I
and
p.m.,
3 p.m., April
through October "Slave
April through October. There's
daily.
no addi-
charge for either tour
tional
Mount Vernon
has
opened
several
new
attractions
on the 30-acre plantation to
help diffuse huge crowds that throng the mansion. The newest
farm
Life at
30-minute walking tour to slave quarters and workplaces that
noon. 2 p.m., and 4 p.m.
starts at 10 a.m.,
life.
than just a big house. Special 30-minute landscape and gar-
site
where
visitors can
is
a four-acre colonial
view costumed interpreters using eighteenth-century farm
methods and tools. Hands-on activities are available March through November, and wagon rides are offered on Fridays. Saturdays, and Sundays. During the summer months, a "Hands-On History" area lets children handle eighteenth-century objects, play games such as rolling hoops, and learn about early
American
The
life;
hours are 10 a.m. to
Web
estate's
site,
I
Day through Labor Day.
p.m. daily from Memorial
www.mountvernon.org.
offers a historical
primer for your
visit.
Monday
Half-hour narrated cruises on the Potomac are offered May through August,
through Sunday; $8 adults and $4 children.
MountVernon
TouringTIps
summer months
spring and
is
very popular,
—sometimes
and tourists
tourist season. Monday. Friday, and Sunday mornings before
periods.
If
you want to avoid
big
crowds, go around
grounds by 5:30 p.m. When crowds are small guided tours of the mansion
in
office,
the
in
I
3 p.m..
I
a.m. are the least busy
but you must leave the
the winter, visitors are frequently given
MountVernon
offers a snack bar.
two
shops, a
gift
museum on entrance. Visit Old Town
and a sit-down restaurant. Rest rooms can be found near the
the grounds or between the
gift
shop and snack bar near the
Alexandria on your way to or from Mount Vernon. To stop at Gadsby's Tavern priate,
in
groups of 20 to 30 people.
Other Things to Do Nearby post
up by the busload
pull
before the grounds open. During the high
because
that's
what George Washington used to
Old Town Alexandria (Zone Type of Attraction A
I
is
appro-
do.
IC)
restored colonial port
town on the Potomac
River, featuring
eighteenth-century buildings on cobblestone streets, trendy shops, bars and restaurants, parks,
Location
and
In
a
huge art center (Guided and self-guided tours)
suburban Vifgima. 8 mile\ south of Washington
Nearest Metro Station King
Admission Some
histoVk:
Street
\
houses charafe $4 for admission. Admission to the Torpedo
Factory Art Center, the Lyc'&mn.andtjje George Washington Masonic National rial is I
free. Tickets that get
you
into three historic sites for
Memo-
$9 ($6 for children ages
1-17) are sold at Ramsay House, the main visitor center on King Street.
Hours
Historic houses, shops, and the
and remain open through the afternoon.
Torpedo Factory Art Center open by
10 a.m.
252
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Phone
For more information on Old Town, call the Alexandria Convention and Visitors
Association at (800) 388-9
1
1
9 or (703) 838-4200. Press 4 for a recording of special
events that's updated regularly.
When to Go
Anytime
Comments
Special
scenic spot for a brown-bag lunch are the picnic
The most
on the Potomac River
tables located at the foot of First Street,
Group
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
Grade school
•• ***
Author's Rating
A
Teens
|
satisfying contrast to
How Much Time to^Allow
•••
Young aduks
|
Half a day.
|
*.T(!r**i/2
Robert
E.
Comments
the second
half,
rival
sray for dinner;
Old Town
./
Alexandria claims both George Washington and
Lee as native sons, so history buffs have a
period revival houses that
****i/2
Seniors
awesome D.C. W^**
If it's
Alexandria has a great^election of restaurants.
Description and
Over 30 ••••1/2
|
those
lot
to see. Topping the
list
Georgetown, another old port up the
in
are
river;
Gadsby's Tavern (open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., April through Sep-
tember, and
p.m. to 5 p.m.
I
on Sunday; guided tours
at quarter of
and quarter past the
hour); Christ Church; and the Lee-Fendall House. This hip, revitalized city
Potomac
is
crammed with
(art, jewelry, children's
on the
exotic restaurants (Thai, Indian, Lebanese, Greek) and shops
books, antiques, Persian carpets). And, unlike those
town, the eating and drinking establishments
in
Old Town
George-
in
aren't overrun by suburban
teenagers on weekends.
Touring Tips
As you
for a quick trip right
Metro
exit the King Street
onto King Street for a pleasant 15-minute
itor center
is
at the
station, either
board a
King Street to Old Town (85 cents), or walk to your
down
stroll
Lyceum, where two exhibition
DASH
left
toward the riverThe closest
galleries
and a
museum
bus
and turn vis-
of the area's
history are featured; from King Street, turn right onto Washington Street and walk a
block.There's also a small niture,
and
House,
built in
Civil
War
museum
featuring prints, documents, photographs,
memorabilia. Farther
1724 and
now Alexandria's
down
official visitor
to 5 p.m., exceptThanksgiving, Christmas, and
good
starting point for a walking tour of
Center tors,
dios housed
in
artists
up a pass that But parking
it
If
open
daily
Days. Ramsay
Ramsay
from 9 a.m.
House makes
1
a
50 painters, printmakers, sculpartists at
work
in
their stu-
you drive to Alexandria, park your car
a nickel or a dime, and
you park free for 24 hours
city limits is
more than
the former munitions factory.
lets
New Year's
and craftspeople. Visitors can watch
a two-hour metered space, feed
Alexandria
center,
silver, fur-
left is
Old Town Alexandria.The Torpedo Factory Art
King Street features
at the foot of
and other
King Street on the
in
go to a
visitor
in
center to pick
any two-hour metered zone inside
(renewable once); you'll need your vehicle's license plate number
scarce and the King Street Metro
OtherThings to Do Nearby
About
a mile
is
conveniently located.
west of the center of Alexandria
is
the
George Washington National Masonic Memorial. A free tour features a view from the 333-foot tower, Washington memorabilia, a 370-year-old Persian rug valued at $1 million, and more information about Masonry than you probably want.The tours are given Monday through Saturday on the half-hour in the mornings and on the hour in the afternoons; the Memorial is open daily, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mount Vernon, George Washington's plantation
on the Potomac,
is
eight miles
downriver
Part Eight
Dining and Restaurants
Experiencing Washington Cuisine
The New Washington Cookery In the
last
1
5 years,
and even more rapidly over the past
Wash-
5 years,
ington has evolved from an extremely predictable restaurant town, one in
which dining out was more a matter of convenience and expense account than pleasure, to one of the country's top ten culinary centers
where
it's
The
really fun to be a restaurant
of heavy French and
sorts
—
a city
critic.
Italian
and "continental" dishes that a
generation of Washingtonians was inured to have been replaced by market-fresh, innovative, and even nutritionally informed recipes, many
of them combining elements of the older together as
of what
is,
classic cuisines (often
lumped
and a strong influence in the development "modern for lack of a better term, described as "modern American"). eclectic"
Far beyond those cuisines are the scores of Vietnamese, Japanese, Indian,
Chinese (of
regions),
all
just first-generation critically
styles
and Ethiopian establishments
mom-and-pop immigrant
acclaimed restaurants.
means
And
better quality as well:
Thai food, has
—
in the area, not
but professional,
eateries
the greater quantity of choices in
The most
recent
like the successive explosions in
boom,
all
the one in
other ethnic fare
—edu-
cated diners to the delicacy as well as the potency of that cuisine, and
chased
The show
many
of the quickie, unauthentic kitchens out of business.
boom
ethnic-fare
them, are developing consider ican,
is
almost certain to continue: National surveys
that younger consumers, "Generations
them
much
as
and Chinese
to stick to. diversity,
And
which
tastes for a variety
a part of the
X and Y,"
as
marketers
of ethnic flavors early in
American buffet
— meaning Cantonese,
primarily
life,
as the Italian,
—
call
and
Mex-
older diners tend
continued immigration naturally means greater cultural is
why there are
increasing
numbers of African and Russ-
ian restaurants in this country.
253
252
Washington's Attractions
Part Seven
Phone
For more information on Old Town, call the Alexandria Convention and Visitors
Association at (800) 388-9
1
1
9 or (703) 838-4200. Press 4 for a recording of special
events that's updated regularly.
When
Go Anytime Comments The
to
Special
most scenic spot for a brown-bag lunch are the on the Potomac River
picnic
tables located at the foot of First Street,
Overall Appeal by Age Preschool
Grade school
Group
•• ***
Teens
|
•••
|
Young aduks^*.^**i/2
|
Over 30 ••••^/i
****!/2
Seniors
|
"
"-^-^
Author's Rating
A
satisfying contrast to
How Much Time t<^Allow
Half a day.
D.C.^^**
awesome
the second
If it's
half,
Comments
Description and Robert
E.
Alexandria^
'both
clairris
Lee as native sons, so history buffs have a
period revival houses that
rival
those
sray for dinner;
Old Town
/
Alexandria has a greatselection of restaurants.
George Washington and
lot to see.
Topping the
list
Georgetown, another old port up the
in
are
river;
Gadsby's Tavern (open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., April through Sep-
tember, and
p.m. to 5 p.m.
I
on Sunday; guided tours
at quarter of
and quarter past the
hour); Christ Church; and the Lee-Fendall House. This hip, revitalized city
Potomac
is
crammed with
(art, jewelry, children's
on the
exotic restaurants (Thai, Indian, Lebanese, Greek) and shops
books, antiques, Persian carpets). And, unlike those
town, the eating and drinking establishments
in
Old Town
George-
in
aren't overrun by suburban
teenagers on weekends.
As you
Touring Tips for a quick trip right
down
Metro
exit the King Street
Town
King Street to Old
onto King Street for a pleasant 15-minute
itor center
is
at the
station, either
stroll
Lyceum, where two exhibition
DASH
board a
(85 cents), or walk to your
left
toward the riverThe closest
galleries
and a
museum
bus
and turn vis-
of the area's
history are featured; from King Street, turn right onto Washington Street and walk a
block.There's also a small niture,
and
House,
built in
Civil
War
museum
featuring prints, documents, photographs,
memorabilia. Farther
1724 and
now Alexandria's
down King
official visitor
to 5 p.m., exceptThanksgiving, Christmas, and
good
starting point for a walking tour of
Center tors,
dios housed
in
artists
up a pass that But parking
it
If
open
daily
Days. Ramsay
Ramsay
from 9 a.m.
House makes
1
a
50 painters, printmakers, sculpartists at
work
in
their stu-
you drive to Alexandria, park your car
a nickel or a dime, and
you park free for 24 hours
city limits is
more than
the former munitions factory.
lets
New Year's
and craftspeople.Visitors can watch
a two-hour metered space, feed
Alexandria
center,
silver, fur-
left is
Old Town Alexandria.The Torpedo Factory Art
at the foot of King Street features
and other
Street on the
in
go to a
in
visitor center to pick
any two-hour metered zone inside
(renewable once); you'll need your vehicle's license plate number
scarce and the King Street Metro
Other Things to Do Nearby
About
a mile
is
conveniently located.
west of the center of Alexandria
is
the
George Washington National Masonic Memorial. A free tour features a view from the 333-foot tower, Washington memorabilia, a 370-year-old Persian rug valued at $1 miland more information about Masonry than you probably want.The tours are given Monday through Saturday on the half-hour in the mornings and on the hour in the afternoons; the Memorial is open daily, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mount Vernon, George Washlion,
ington's plantation
on the Potomac,
is
eight miles downriver.
Part Eight
Dining and Restaurants
Experiencing Washington Cuisine
The New Washington Cookery In the
last
15 years, and even
more
rapidly over the past 5 years,
Wash-
ington has evolved from an extremely predictable restaurant town, one in
which dining out was more a matter of convenience and expense account than pleasure, to one of the country's top ten culinary centers
where
it's
The
really fiin to be a restaurant
of heavy French and
sorts
—
a city
critic.
Italian
and "continental" dishes that a
generation of Washingtonians was inured to have been replaced by market-fresh, innovative, and even nutritionally informed recipes, many
of them combining elements of the older together as
of what
is,
classic cuisines (often
lumped
and a strong influence in the development "modern for lack of a better term, described as "modern American"). eclectic"
Far beyond those cuisines are the scores of Vietnamese, Japanese, Indian,
Chinese (of
regions),
all
just first-generation critically
styles
and Ethiopian establishments
mom-and-pop immigrant
acclaimed restaurants.
means
And
better quality as well:
Thai food, has
—
in the area, not
but professional,
eateries
the greater quantity of choices in
The most
recent
like the successive explosions in
boom,
all
the one in
other ethnic fare
—edu-
cated diners to the delicacy as well as the potency of that cuisine, and
chased
The show
many
of the quickie, unauthentic kitchens out of business. boom is almost certain to continue: National surveys
ethnic-fare
that younger consumers, "Generations
them, are developing consider ican,
them
as
much
and Chinese
to stick to. diversity,
And
which
tastes for a variety
a part of the
X and Y,"
as
marketers
of ethnic flavors early in
American buffet
—meaning Cantonese,
primarily
life,
as the Italian,
—
call
and
Mex-
older diners tend
continued immigration naturally means greater cultural is
why there
are increasing
numbers of African and Russ-
ian restaurants in this country.
253
254
Part Eight
Dining and Restaurants
The Washington
become demanding enough
palate has
frank, the expense accounts have
prising
expanded
number of restaurants from
other dining capitals to open branches
New
York's ultra-haute Lespinasse (closed
from
in the nation's capital,
since the sale of the St. Regis Hotel chain)
and super-steakhouses Charlie
Palmer Steak, Bobby Vans, and Smith and the more laid-back
Miami's Ortanique
—
&
WoUensky;
(now Michel
Olives; to L.A.'s haute-haute Citronelle base)
(and, to be
sufficiently) to inspire a sur-
Nick and
beefeaters' palace,
Boston's
to
Richard's
home
Stef's; to
even, albeit at one step removed; California's land-
mark French Laundry, thanks to the hiring of its longtime chef de cuisine Eric Ziebold to the Mandarin Oriental's ambitious CityZen restaurant.
Though
it's
a 90-minute drive, Washingtonians gladly claim pride of
place for the five-star in
Inn
at Little
Washington, Virginia), whose
admired
And ladin,
Mark
a host of chefs
O'Connell, and Yannick Cam,
own. More
who
Roberto Donna, Jean-Louis
and those same old-time
their
it's
of note.
Washington generation,
Miller, Patrick
and restaurants of
(the "Little," because
Patrick O'Connell, has been
chef,
in the kitchens of star chefs
better hotel restaurants
young
Washington
in print in every culinary journal
a different sort of
grew up
classicists,
Pal-
as well as the
have kitchens
than contentious, these
collegial
chefs are developing a style that plays
up
regional flavors: Chesa-
peake Bay seafoods; Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland game; and the wealth of organic produce and herbs being raised for this market.
Organic-cooking maven Nora Poullion
but
as
may
number of menus with
credit for the entries,
not be able to claim
all
the
additive-free or heart-healthy
founder of a national organic network, the Chefs Collec-
many
demand the freshest ingredihome of the Center for Science
other chefs to
tive,
she has inspired
ents.
(And, of course, Washington
is
the
who went
in the Public Interest, the folks
tucine Alfredo was just as bad for you as
right
on and
itself
is
told
you always knew
That an increasing number of these young remain in the D.C. area
Among them
it
you
that fet-
was.)
chefs are choosing to
proof of the audience's sophistication.
Todd Gray of Equinox, Jacques Ford of Matisse, Persimmon, Eric McCoy of Cafe Bethesda, Jason Tepper of La Miche, Jonathan Krinn of 2941, Johnny Monis of Komi,
Damien
are
Salvatore of
and Barbara Black of Addies. Even more intriguing
is
the
number of chefs who,
been lured away from big-name nation's capital.
now
eateries in
like Ziebold,
Manhattan
Leeds, a veteran of such
hot new-downtown
Manhattan hot spots
MCI
have
to positions in the
Frank Morales, formerly of New York's Union
at Zola, in the very
Center
Pacific,
district.
as Tribeca Grill
is
Jamie
and Union
Square Cafe, created 15 ria in the Washington Terrace Hotel (1515
Rhode
I
Island Avenue,
NW;
Mathieson quit Lespinasse
(202) 742-0015). Gray to
open Poste
in the
Koonz protege Jon Monaco and
Hotel
I
— Experiencing Washington Cuisine
Mina Newman,
formerly of Layla created a
menu
of hilariously
255
irrever-
ent recipes at Restaurant Seven in Tysons Corner (though both have
moved
since
on). Just to
New Restaurant
name
a few.
Districts
Along with the awakening of the Washington palate has come a rearrangement of the dining map. While Georgetown remains a busy shopping and nightlife area, it is no longer the dominant restaurant strip.
downtown arts district from the MCI Center at Seventh about Tenth Street north of Pennsylvania Avenue, known as Penn Quarter; the stunning renaissance of its near-neighbor, the midtown region from approximately Tenth to 20th Streets between F and K;
The
revitalized
Street west to
the ethnically mixed
northwest suburbs
Wheaton and
—
Adams-Morgan/U
neighborhood; and the neighborhoods of
Street
particularly the Asian polyglot
Bethesda, with their "golden triangles" of restaurants
emerged as livelier locations, with Gaithersburg and Germantown hot on their heels. At the same time, restaurant dining has become so diversified that one no longer needs to go to the "Little Saigon" neighborhood around Clarendon for very good Vietnamese cooking (although Adams-Morgan is still home to most of the Ethiopian restaurants and Annandale the center of Korean fare); in fact, it's hard to imagine that anyone living in the Washington metropolitan area is more than a mile have
all
from
five
Not
or six different ethnic restaurants.
surprisingly, given
its
long lobbying habits, Washington has also
rediscovered the big steak and big-ticket business meals, and put the two
together at the twenty-first-century version of the saloon, the platinum-
card chophouse. These are lar
— —
prime
lists
that
beef,
now
so popular,
creamed spinach,
we have simply
"More Recommendations,"
and
Caesar
cow
listed the biggest
so that
their formats so simi-
and hefty wine
salad,
palaces below, under
you can browse by
location.
Scoping Out the Lunch Crowd In the old days the price of a Washington meal proved
and
rant rests
even
its
importance
by implication, the diners'. These days the appeal of a
its
more on
a kitchen's imagination,
its
bottled water. Half the ftin of lunching out
midday clientele: power lunchers secret spots),
(at
restauservice,
scoping out the
and some well-kept ethnic restaurants, which are
on the uptake than
at
traditional white-linen establish-
ments), flower lunchers (the remnants of the leisure lunchers (those roving bands of office workers ebrating someone's great occasion but If you're
is
its
the old standbys
hour lunchers (very often
rather quicker
D.C.
beer selection,
class),
and shower
who seem always
who want
to be cel-
individual checks).
not sure which kind of restaurant you've just walked into,
glance around at the beverage glasses. Power lunchers are
more
likely to
order a cocktail, hour lunchers a beer, flower lunchers wine, and shower lunchers soft drinks or pitchers with paper fans.
256
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
Brunch
back in fashion, not only on Sundays but on Saturdays, and
is
not just eggy but ethnic; see the hst of "Best Sunday Brunches" below.
Industry Trends
With
the slowing of the 1990s stock market,
and a few hints of economic from customer
"correction," Washington's restaurant industry took a hit efforts to
economize. Several of the finer establishments, caught between
the pincers of exorbitant rent and declining expense-account business,
most notably Lespinasse and and Aquarelle closed and
Dean*s, Provencal,
have had to take advantage of Chapter
or similar restructuring. There are
1 1
Timothy
successor,
its
several
still
plenty of expensive menus,
though, from which to choose, and some of the most influential chefs in the area have opened what might be called "off-the-rack" restaurants (cafes
and
pizzerias) in addition to their designer
menus
—sometimes
same rooms. Roberto Donna of Galileo has both and a
the Laboratorio del Galileo,
And, his
"tasting
menu
distinct
room" and a from
its
are continually rethinking
is
home
list.
NW;
vania Avenue,
The 1 00
now Oyamel),
Marou Outtawa of Signatures
(801 Pennsyl-
or so restaurant profiles that follow are intended to give you a
and advantages of
a particular establishment as
None should be taken as gospel, because one new appetite for adventure is that restaurants
particular cuisine.
drawback of Washington's
open and
close
—and
promising chefs play musical kitchens
breathtaking speed. This also means that
we have
for the
only restaurants that have been in operation for at
just
—
^with
most part pro-
least a year, or that
have chefs with such strong track records that they are of special
Some
in
who Ramon
(202) 628-5900) and Michel Richard of Citronelle.
sense of the atmosphere its
was
to first-rank creative chefs
and reconstructing food, notably Jose
Fabio Trabocchi (Maestro),
with
bistro,
main
Andres (Cafe Atlantico, Minibar, Jaleo, Zaytinya and
filed
section,
for perhaps the first time since the late Jean-Louis Palladin
Watergate heyday, Washington
well as
inside the
more upscale
formal Osteria del Galileo inside
less
Eve has a
the restaurant. Restaurant
separate menus; Palena has a bar
a
interest.
very promising restaurants have been omitted because they were
opening
come up
at press time;
to scratch.
hard-and-fast rule.)
other rather well-known ones
(We tend
to avoid chain restaurants,
We have also
in
some
may
not have
though
it's
not a
cases given preference to estab-
lishments with subway access, though only as a balancing factor.
And, blame
it
on yuppie consciousness, gourmet magazine
tion, or real curiosity, the increased interest in the techniques
has also produced a tions,
demand
and guaranteed
restaurants change their
more change places
may
prolifera-
of cooking
for variety, constantly challenging presenta-
freshness.
menus
Consequently,
many of
the fancier
or some portion thereof every day, and
seasonally, so the specific dishes
recommended
at particular
not be available on a given night. Use these critiques
as a
Experiencing Washington Cuisine guide, an indication of the chef's interests nesses, too. We'll tell
The
New
When
ventional
and strengths
—and weak-
trying.
Hotel Dining
comes
it
you what's not worth
257
to hotel dining
wisdom
D.C. many of the
rooms, Washington contradicts the con-
that hotel restaurants are not better chefs are
working
worth seeking
in hotels.
This
beneficial arrangement, allowing the chefs to concentrate
kitchen, not a business,
and providing an
is
a
out. In
mutually
on managing
a
extra attraction to potential
Since Washington's hotels count on a great deal of expense-
clients.
account business, they generally offer menus on the expensive
side.
In
we recommend those at the Willard Hay- Adams Hotel (Lafayette), the Four
addition to the restaurants profiled,
Hotel (Willard Room), the
Seasons (Seasons), Jefferson Hotel, the Madison Hotel (Palette),
Washington Circle (Circle ington Inn (Nectar), Cafe tal,
Bistro), the River Inn (Dish),
Mozu
and CityZen
at the
One
George Wash-
Mandarin Orien-
run by Yamamoto and former French Laundry executive chef Eric
Ziebold, respectively; the Morrison-Clark Inn, the Watergate (Jeffrey's at the Watergate), the Hyatt
Regency
in
Reston (Market Street
(Cafe 15), Washington Terrace (15
Sofitel
(Poste),
ria),
Grill),
Monaco downtown
the Hotel
Henley Park (Coeur de Lion), the Ritz-Carlton
(Jockey Club), the Stratford Motor Inn in Falls Church (Cafe Rose), the Fairmont (The Bistro), and the Mayflower (Cafe Promenade), as well as those noted in the description of the
new downtown
below.
The Inns and Outs The Washington
area
is
also blessed
within a couple hours' drive. ally
We
with some very fine country inns
have actually profiled only the nation-
famous Inn at Little Washington
you're taking a longer vacation
in this edition, but in addition, if
and want
to see the countryside,
we
would recommend looking into such restaurants as Antrim 1844 in Taneytown, Willow Grove in Orange, Stone Manor in Middleton, the Turning Point Inn in Urbana, Four and Twenty Blackbirds in Flint Hill, the Hermitage Inn in Clifton, and the Ashby Inn in Paris. And the Goose Run restaurant at the luxurious Salamander Inn and Spa, scheduled to open in the
fall
of 2005, will be run by executive chef Todd Gray,
owner-chef of Equinox, profiled below.
Diners' Special
The
Needs
following profiles attempt to address the special requirements of
diners
who
use wheelchairs or leg braces. Because so
ton's restaurants occupy older buildings
many
of Washing-
and row houses, options
for
wheelchair users are unfortunately limited. In most cases, wheelchair access
is
prevented right
entrance to the dining
at the street,
room keep
but
many
their rest
restaurants offering easy
rooms up or down
a flight of
Dining and Restaurants
258
Part Eight
stairs.
In either case,
we
access suggests that there
may be
passage is
them
list is
an
bets
—
or small barrier to cross, or that
a bit tight, but that once inside the establishment, dining
comfortable for the wheelchair
good
having "no" disabled access. "Fair"
as
initial step
same wide
the
Again, hotel dining rooms are
user.
and ramps used
halls
deliveries serve wheelchair users as well.
for baggage carts
and
office buildings
and
Newer
mixed shopping and entertainment complexes have ramps and
make them
that
even have their
We
have not categorized restaurants
on
some
request, although
accustomed
to
world feature
making veggie
much meat
as
good
cuisines are
will
make
are particularly
many nonmeat
unlikely to have
as offering vegetarian or
other
Washington restaurants now
common
Use
said so.
all
on the menu or
either vegetarian entrees
and we have
stations
elevators.
restricted diets because almost
dishes
subway
wheelchair-accessible; the ones above
own
elevators
sense:
A
offer
low-salt or low-fat
amenable to doing
this,
big-ticket steakhouse
many
options (though
is
have become
but since few countries in the
plates),
most ethnic
in their cuisine as America,
bets for vegetarians.
Places to See Faces Washington may not movie
come
stars
to
be Hollywood on the Potomac
really
town
to lobby for their pet causes,
it's
(so
many
getting close),
but there are celebrity faces aplenty. Consequently, out-of-towners often list
"famous people" right
required-viewing star
treatment
visible in
is
list.
most
dependable places, particularly
celeb-
and
roles
—
—and
celebrities
—
the
getting
tend to be
at lunch.
Milano has emerged
socialite-centric restaurant,
even media-types. Ditto performers
known
part of the scene
is
one of the perks of being famous
In the past couple of years. Cafe
Museum on
Air and Space
after the
Since being seen
the
as the single
with diplomats,
new decor
is
royals,
based on
and
the best-
of regular Placido Domingo.
In this town, at
that Democratic
not only makes strange bedfellows,
least, politics
makes strange dining
partners.
Which may be why
bad boy James Carville and
his
it
odd Republican commentait
wasn't
all
that
Mary Matalin tried opening their own neo-Southern restaurant, West 24 (it didn't get enough bipartisan support). Top Democratic lobtor wife
byist
Tommy
Boggs and former
expertise in getting along;
house, the hit.
On
Caucus
Room
and
GOP
heavy Haley Barbour have more
their flagrantly pork-barrel sort
(Ninth and
D
Streets; (202)
the other hand, in restaurants as in politics,
spate of stories tagging lobbyist Jack
upscale kosher spot Archives ious former-Soviet states
Russian-retro
Mayim.
and
—and
it's
is
a
the PR, stupid; a
Abramoff made short work of
his
The embassy staffers from varshow up at the U.S. counterparts
Stacks.
their
of steak-
393-1300),
—
The
its
bullying waiters,
The 6200)
259
NW;
(202)
Palm (1225 19th
venerable steak-and-lobster
293-9091), with its
Experiencing Washington Cuisine
wall-to-wall caricatures of
media and
a popular
is still
Street,
famous customers and
legal-eagle hangout.
NW;
Pennsylvania Avenue,
Capital Grille (601
grounds,
it
boardroom and back room
serves as both
(202) 737-
from the Capitol
particularly well located; only a short stroll
is
for the
GOP.
After
the party's 1995 gala, a couple hundred of the black-tie guests dropped
by the
and
Grille for drinks
Only
cigars.
few nights before, when a
a
clutch of budget-crunching Republican senators had peeked in after last call,
the general manager had rolled
dozen
Back
The
strategic burgers.
more
in
up
his sleeves
Grille gets
its
and
share of
Lauch
coUegial times, then-Senators
grilled a
odd
couple
couples, too:
Faircloth, a right-
Moynihan (now
leaning republican, and liberal intellectual Senator Pat
deceased) arrived for dinner, Faircloth announcing the pair to staff as "the redneck
and the
aristocrat."
Galileo, the flagship restaurant of Washington's capo di tutti capi chef
Roberto Donna, has Dole. Restaurant
its
opposing
Nora was
political icons,
Ted Kennedy and Bob and Gores;
an early favorite of the Clintons
former Energy Secretary Hazel O'Leary, Bosnian peacemeister Richard C. Holbrooke, and Clinton insider Vernon Jordan old-clubby
Monocle (107
transfer point
Republican
D
NE;
Street,
between the Senate and
money men
—
its
Melrose. The
office buildings,
D'Amato and
^Alfonse
like
(202) 546-4488), the unofficial
draws the
Pete Domenici, former
chairmen of the Senate banking and finance committees, respectively, and John Kasich, former chairman of the House budget committee.
The
elegant Raj-redux
House
attracts
Bombay Club
across the street
from the White
pol-turned-commentator George Stephanopoulos, Janet
Reno, and John Glenn. Senator Frank Lautenberg of New Jersey (who bill banning smoking on airlines), Stephanopoulos, D'Amato,
wrote the
and Bob Kerrey (president of New School University taken the steak-and-stogie course
Avenue,
NW;
at
in
New York)
have
Les Halles (1201 Pennsylvania
(202) 347-6848).
Pol-watchers should also check out
Two Quail
(320 Massachusetts
Avenue, NE; (202) 543-8030) for congresswomen or La Colline for committee staffers. Bullfeathers is full of national committee staffers
from both
Adams
parties (410 First Street, SE; (202) 543-5005).
(16th and
breakfast
H
Streets,
NW;
Grill,
is
The Hay-
where the power
was born, starring White House
Treasury and White House (202)
Avenue,
(202) 638-6600)
NW;
347-4801,
staff and federal bureaucrats. crowd the neighboring Old Ebbitt
staff"
the
Occidental
Grill
(1475
Pennsylvania
(202) 783-1475), and Georgia Brown's. And,
low-profile politicians
and working
especially in shad roe season, are sionals incognito (200
E
Street,
press
who
rumored
SW;
among
the
frequent the
Market Inn,
CIA and
other profes-
to be
(202) 554-2100).
260
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
World Bank and rate write-offs
OAS
suits
lunch
Taberna del Alabardero; corpo-
at
go to the Prime Rib (2020
K
NW;
Street,
(202) 466-
8811) and the midtown Morton's (L Street and Connecticut; (202) 955-5997).
Chef Alison Swope's decision to go made Andale a popular hangout for
all
modern-regional Mexican has
politicos
de todas
las
Americas,
including the Mexican and Canadian ambassadors and Senators Diane Feinstein of California
media, and sports
and Kevin Brady of Texas. The black
stars
intelligensia,
(BET founder Robert Johnson, D.C. Mayor
Anthony Williams, Redskins owner Dan Snyder, Capitals owner Ted Leonsis, and visiting celebs Morgan Freeman and Danny Glover) like Ortanique.
Oceanaire draws a
Shaw and
lot
of media
faces,
host Larry King, a host of
including
ABC News
CNN anchor Bernard
staffers
Cochran, commentator George Stephanopoulus,
Chris Wallace; radio anti-hero Oliver North, as well as a letes.
(The downtown restaurants being so near the
them may
including John
Sam Donaldson, and
MCI
number of athCentre, any of
sport a jersey or two.)
Ristorante Tosca has become a sort of unofficial Democratic hangout: regulars
include
many younger
pros
from
Kennedy/Shriver/
the
Edward Kennedy (who prefers dining in the kitchen); presidential alter ego Martin Sheen of NBC's 77?^ West Wing; and power couple NBC reporter Andrea Mitchell and Federal Reserve Chairman Alan Greenspan.
Townsend
clan as well as Senator
The New Downtown Dining The
revival
of the area between the power poles of the Capitol and the
White House, with the new Convention Center and the sports arena in between, has
the
downtown
sports fans,
Among
area; after
how
could
it
new
MCI
produced an astonishing restaurant
all,
with
all
Centre
boom
in
those lobbyists, politicians and
miss?
downtown dining
scene
are:
Zaytinya, an upscale Middle Eastern tapas restaurant from the folks
who
the best
entries into the
brought you Jaleo and Cafe Atlantico; Zola next to the International Spy
Museum;
the luxe
Le Paradou;
the whimsical
Minibar
Ristorante Tosca; and the nuevo-Latino Ortanique,
Others include Finemondo (1319 F
Street,
NW;
at
Cafe Atlantico;
all
profiled below.
(202) 737-3100), a sort
of kebab house on the big steakhouse model and offering whole lambs on
Wood-Fired Pizza (901 F Street, NW; (202) 638Chef Geoff's (1301 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW; (202) 464-4461);
a day's notice; Ellas
3434);
Signatures (801 Pennsylvania Avenue,
15
in the Sofitel Hotel,
NW;
(202) 628-5900); and Cafe
whose menu was created by
Michelin-star Antoine Westerman.
Strasbourg's three-
1
The Restaurants With
the influx of boutique hotels has
mostly named simply
more upscale Wabeck was
fare
come
26
boutique lounges,
also the
themselves but often serving rather
after the hotels
than the traditional bar
Longtime
bites.
chef John
local
chef for three of these (almost too hip)
briefly executive
them
scenes at once, although he gave
slightly different personalities: the
Topaz Bar (1722 N Street, NW; (202) 393-3000); the nuevo-Latino accented Bar Rouge (1315 16th Street, NW; (202) 2328000); and Helix (1430 Rhode Island Avenue, NW; (202) 462-9001).
more
Asian-ftision
Wabeck
now on
is
the group's fourth
new
venture in a matter of months,
Madera (1310
the Firefly Restaurant alongside the Hotel shire
The Our We
NW;
Avenue,
these four
all
(202) 861-1310).
(Actually,
New Hamp-
the fifth venture, as
it's
belong to the same group that owns the Hotel Monaco.)
Restaurants Favorite Washington Restaurants
have developed detailed profiles for the most interesting and
restaurants
(in
reliable
our opinion) in town. Each profile features an
easily
scanned heading that allows you, in just a second, to check out the restaurant's
name,
Cuisine
cuisine, star rating, cost, quality rating,
This
is
actually less straightforward than
and value
it
sounds.
rating.
A
couple of
years ago, for example, "pan-Asian" restaurants were generally serving
was then generally described
European techniques, or vice
—
food
as "fiision"
^Asian ingredients
all
specialize in
with
been a pan-Asian
versa. Since then, there has
explosion in the area, but nearly
what
what would be
street
food
back home: noodles, skewers, dumplings, and soups. Modern American sounds pretty broad, and
and part "new are
eclectic."
it is
Like
—
art,
part
"new
you know
major subdivisions of cuisine, we have
ous place; Marcel's nitely Belgian.
continental," part "regional,"
it
when you see
tried to
Belgian-French, while
is
And Nuevo
Latino
is
put
it
it.
Where
in the
Le Mannequin Pis
distinctly different
from
there
most obviis
defi-
traditional
Spanish or South American. Again, though, experimentation and "fusion" is
ever
more common,
so don't hold us, or the chefs, to too strict a style.
The
Overall Star Rating
star rating
is
an
overall rating that
passes the entire dining experience, including style, service,
ence in addition to the stars
is
taste,
encom-
and ambi-
presentation, and quality of the food. Five
the highest rating possible
and connotes the
Four-star restaurants are exceptional,
and
best of everything.
three-star restaurants are well
above average. Two-star restaurants are good.
One
star
is
used to indicate
an average restaurant that demonstrates an unusual capability in some area of specialization
—
for example,
that has great barbecued chicken.
an otherwise unmemorable place
262
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
Cost
To
the right of the star rating
vides a comparative sense of
an expense description that pro-
is
how much
a complete
meal
A
will cost.
complete meal for our purposes consists of an entree with vegetable or side dish
and choice of soup or
salad. Appetizers, desserts, drinks,
and
tips are excluded.
Inexpensive
$14 and
Moderate
$ 5-$30 per person
Expensive
More than $30 per person
per person
less
1
The food quality is rated on a five-star scale, five being The quality rating is based solely on the food
Quality Rating
the best rating attainable.
served, taking into account taste, freshness of ingredients, preparation,
presentation,
want the
and
There
creativity.
best food available,
and
no consideration of
is
cost
is
not an
issue,
price. If
you
look no further
than the quality ratings.
on the other hand, you
Value Rating
If,
and
value, then
you should check the value
The
value ratings are defined as follows:
***** **** *** **
are looking for
both quality
rating, also expressed in stars.
Exceptional value; a real bargain
Good
value
Fair value;
you get exactly what you pay for
Somewhat overpriced
*
Significantly
Locating the Restaurant
Just
overpriced
below the heading
is
a designation for
geographic zone. This zone description will give you a general idea of
where the restaurant described D.C., into the following Zone
I
The National
is
We've divided Washington,
located.
geographic zones:
1 1
Zone 7
Mall
Upper Northwest
Zone 2
Capitol
Hill
Zone 8
Northeast
Zone
Downtown
Zone 9
Southeast
Zone 4
Foggy Bottom
Zone
Zone
Georgetown
Zone
3
5
Zone 6
Dupont
Maryland suburbs
1
I
Virginia suburbs
I
Circle/
Adams-Morgan
The Maryland suburbs
are divided into four smaller areas:
Zones
1
OA
bounded by the Potomac and Georgia Avenue and divided by the Beltway; Zone 1 OC is defined by 1 6th Street/Georgia Avenue, the District line. New Hampshire (Bethesda)
lOB (Rockville-Gaithersburg)
and
Avenue, and 1-95 necessarily splits
as a
the District line up
The
wedge
that runs north
Wheaton down
New Hampshire and
Virginia suburbs are
95/395 into three
the middle;
slices:
from
Silver Spring
and Zone
1
OD
and
that
reaches from
1-95 around to the Virginia line.
marked off more
Zone llA
are
cleanly along 1-66
covers Tysons Corner,
and
I-
McLean,
The Restaurants Vienna, and Reston; Zone fax;
and Zone llC
is
for detailed
zone maps.
Payment
We've
listed the
using the following code: equals Carte Blanche, equals MasterCard,
and Visa
is
includes Arlington, Annandale,
D
JCB
Old and
type of
AmEx
and Fair10-27
otherwise. See pages
payment accepted
at
each restaurant
equals American Express (Optima),
equals Discover,
DC
equals Diners Club,
equals Japan Credit Bank,
CB
MC
T equals Transmedia,
self-explanatory.
Who's Included in
B
1 1
Alexandria,
263
Because restaurants are opening and closing
Washington, we have
tried to confine
proven track record over a
fairly
our
all
the time
to establishments
list
with a
long period of time. Franchises and
national chains are rarely included, although local "chains," restaurant
groups of three or four,
may
be.
Newer
or changed establishments that
demonstrate staying power and consistency will be profiled in subsequent editions. Also, the
list is
highly selective. Noninclusion of a particular place
does not necessarily indicate that the restaurant it
was not ranked among the best
in
its
is
not good, but only that
genre. Detailed profiles of individ-
ual restaurants follow in alphabetical order at the
end of this
part.
RESTAURANTS BY CUISINE.THEN STAR RATING Cuisine and
Name
Overall Rating
Price Rating
Quality Rating
Value Rating
264
Part Eight
Dining and Restaurants
RESTAURANTS BY CUISINE,THEN STAR RATING
(continued)
The Restaurants
RESTAURANTS BY CUISINE.THEN STAR RATING Cuisine and
Name
(continued)
265
266
Part Eight
Dining and Restaurants
RESTAURANTS BY CUISINE.THEN STAR RATING Cuisine and
Name
(continued)
The Restaurants
RESTAURANTS BY ZONE.THEN ALPHABETICAL (continued)
267
268
Part Eight
Dining and Restaurants
RESTAURANTS BY ZONE,THEN ALPHABETICAL (continued)
More Recommendations
RESTAURANTS BY ZONE.THEN ALPHABETICAL
(continued)
269
270
Part Eight
Dining and Restaurants
The Biggest Beef Steakhouses
NW (202) 333- 00 NW (202) 589-0060 Capital Grille 601 Pennsylvania Avenue. NW (202) 737-6200 Caucus Room Ninth and F streets. NW (202) 393- 300 Constitution Avenue. NW (202) 547-8 Charlie Palmer Steak Blackie's
227 22nd
1
Bobby Van's
809
Street.
1
1
5th Street.
1
1
1
1
Don 1
1
00
8028 Leesburg Pike.Tysons Corner (703) 506-3256; Hampshire Avenue. (202) 828-7762
Shula's
123
New
NW
& Wine Bar
Fleming's Steakhouse
1
960 Chain Bridge Road.Tysons
Corner (703) 442-8384 J.
6903 Old Dominion Drive, McLean (703) 893- 034
Gilbert's
1
Morton's of Chicago
325
Prospect Street,
1
NW (202) 342-6258;
8075 Leesburg Pike/Route 7,Tysons Corner (703) 883-0800; 1050 Connecticut Avenue.
NW (202) 955-5997;
1631 Crystal Square Arcade. Arlington (703) 418-1444;
One Freedom Square. Reston Town Center. Reston 225 9th Street. NW (202) 293-909 Palm 1
1
1
(703) 796-0128
1
750 Tyson's Boulevard.Tyson's Corner (703) 917-0200
Prime Rib
2020 K
Street,
NW (202) 466-88
Ruth's Chris Steakhouse
724 Ninth
1
80
1
)
1
1
I
NW (202) 797-0033;
NW (202) 393-4488;
Street.
73 5 Wisconsin Avenue. Bethesda (30
223
1
Connecticut Avenue,
652-7877;
1
Crystal Drive. Crystal City (703) 979-7275
Sam &
NW
200 9th Street. Harry's (202) 296-4333; 8240 Leesburg Pike.Tysons Corner (703) 448-0088
Smith
1
1
& Wollensky's
II
I
2
1
9th Street,
N W (202)
466-
1
1
00
The Freshest Beers (Brewed On-site) Brewer's Alley
1
24 N. Market Street. Frederick (30
Capitol City Brewing Co. 2 Massachusetts Avenue.
NE
I
100
)
63 -0089 1
1
New York Avenue. NW
(202) 628-2222;
(202) 842-2337;
2700 South Quincy Street.Arlington (703) 578-3888
DuClaw Brewing Co.
1
6-A Bel-Air South Station Parkway.
Bel Air
(410)515-3222
and Brewpub
Franklin's Restaurant
5 23 Baltimore Avenue. Hyattsville 1
(301)927-2740
Hops 3625 Jefferson Davis Highway Alexandria (703) 837-9 07 Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant 900 F Street. NW (202) 783-5454 John Harvard's Brewhouse 1299 Pennsylvania Avenue. NW (202) 783-2739 Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery 7900 Norfolk Avenue, Bethesda 1
(301)652-1311
Summit
Station
227 East Diamond Avenue, Gaithersburg (30
Sweetwater Tavern
1
Virginia Beverage Co.
) 1
5 9-9400 1
4250 Sweetwater Lane, Centreville (703) 449607 King
Street. Alexandria (703)
684-5397
The Best Burgers The
Brickskeller
810 Seventh Five
Guys
Street.
523 22nd Street. NW NW (202) 289-2030
1
Nine area
locations; visit
them
(202) 293- 885; 1
online at www.fiveguys.com.
1
1
00
1
More Recommendations Old Ebbitt
RFD
675
Grill
810 Seventh
1
NW
5th Street,
NW
Street.
271
(202) 347-4801
(202) 289-2030
Union Street Public House
2
1
South Union Street Alexandria (703) 548- 785 1
1
The Most Entertaining Decor Busara 8 42 1
N
Mie P.P.
2340 Wisconsin Avenue.
Watson
Yu 3125 M
Chang's
1
7
1
NW
(202)337-2340;
McLean (703) 356-2288
Street.
NW
Street.
6M
(202) 333-6122
International Drive (Tysons Galleria).
McLean
(703) 734-8996
2029 P
Pizzeria Paradise
Red Sage
NW
Street.
(202) 223- 245 1
7928 L.Tysons Corner Center. McLean (703) 82
Rainforest Cafe
605 14th
NW
Street.
Ristorante Filomena
1
900
1
(202) 638-4444
1063 Wisconsin Avenue,
NW
(202)338-8800
226 Maple Avenue West, Vienna (703)255-2467;
TaraThai
4828 Bethesda Avenue. Bethesda (301) 657-0488; 12071 Rockville Pike (Montrose Crossing), Rockville (301)231-9899;
750 -C Leesburg Pike.Tysons Corner (703) 506-9788; 1
981
I
Washingtonian Boulevard,
Teatro Goldoni
909 K
1
the Rio Center (301) 947-8330
in
Street,
NW
(202) 955-9494
The Best Family Dining Cafe Deluxe 49
800 International Drive.Tysons Corner (703) 76 -0600; 1
1
Elm Street. Bethesda (30
1
Guapo's
)
656-3 3 1
1
45 5 Wisconsin Avenue, 1
NW
(202) 686-3588;
8498 Centreville Road, Manassas Park (703) 393-9449; 981
I
Washingtonian Boulevard (Rio Centre), Gaithersburg (301) 977-5655
Hard Rock Cafe 999 E Street. NW (202) 737-rock OIney Ale House 2000 Sandy Spring Road (Route 08). OIney 20 9th Street, NW (202) 293-3 38; Oodles Noodles
(30
1
1
I
)
774-6708
1
1
1
4907 Cordell Avenue, Bethesda (301) 986-8833
Radio Free
Italy
Cameron
5
Street (Torpedo Factory) (703)683-0361
7928 LTysons Corner Center. McLean (703) 82
Rainforest Cafe
1
-
1
900
The Best Pizza Ella's
Wood-Fired Pizza
Faccia Luna
NW (202) 638-3434 NW (202) 337-3 32;
901 F Street.
2400 Wisconsin Avenue,
1
823 Washington Street. Alexandria (703) 838-5998;
2909 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington (703) 276-3099 2029 P
Pizzeria Paradiso
Primi Piatti
20
Two Amys Zio's
1
37 5 1
3
I
Street.
Street.
Macomb
NW
NW
(202) 223- 245
Street and Wisconsin Avenue,
9083 Gaither Road, Gaithersburg (30
The Best
Raw
Black Bar
Blue Point
Oceanaire Kinkead's
&
)
NW
(202) 885-5700
977-6300
1
Bars
Kitchen
Grill
1
(202) 223-3600
7750 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda (30
600 Franklin
1201 F Street,
Street, Alexandria (703)
NW
(202) 347-bass
2000 Pennsylvania Avenue.
NW
) 1
739-0404
(202)296-7700
652-6278
272
Raw
The Best
&
McCormick's
Bars
(continued)
Schmick's
I
1
920 Democracy Drive, Reston (703) 48 -6600; 1
Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda (30 652 K Street, NW (202) 86 -2233;
740 1
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
)
1
96 -2626; 1
1
1
8484Westpark Drive,Tysons Corner
(703) 848-8000;
NW (202) 639-9330
901 F Street,
Old Ebbitt Grill The Sea Catch
675
5th Street,
1
054
1
3
st Street,
1
NW (202) 347-4801 NW (202) 337-8855
The Best Sunday Brunches Cafe Atlantlco
405 Eighth
Street,
NW
(202) 393-08 2 (Saturday only) 1
The Four Seasons Hotel Garden Terrace
2800 Pennsylvania Avenue,
NW
(202) 342-0444
Gabriel
2 2 1
The
NW (next to Radisson Barcelo Hotel) (202) 956-6690 5th Street, NW (202) 393-4499
P Street,
1
Georgia Brown's Irish Inn at
950
1
Glen Echo
MacArthur Boulevard and Clara Barton Parkway,
Glen Echo (301)229-6600
480 Seventh
Jaleo
7255
Street,
Woodmont Avenue,
NW
(202) 628-7949;
Bethesda (301)91 3-0003;
2250 Crystal Drive, Arlington (703) 413-8181
The Kennedy Center Roof Terrace
NW
2000 Pennsylvania Avenue,
Kinkead's
Melrose
New
Virginia
New
and
Hampshire Avenues,
(202)416-8555
Heights
23 7 Calvert Street, 1
Old Angler's !nn Old Ebbitt
080
1
675
Grill
(202) 296-7700
Streets,
NW
NW
(202) 955-3899
(202) 234-4
1
1
MacArthur Boulevard, Potomac (30
1
5th Street,
1
NW
M
Park Hyatt Hotel, 24th and
NW
)
365-2425
1
(202) 347-480
The Best Sushi Bars Chopsticks
Ginza
073 Wisconsin Avenue,
1
009 2
1
Ha Ku Ba
st Street,
1
NW (202) 338-6
1
6
(202) 833- 244 1
706 Center Point Way, Kentlands, Gaithersburg (30
Hama Sushi
1
9 5 1
I
Street,
Momo Taro
1
605
1
1
Niwano Hana
887 Rockville Pike (Wintergreen Street,
NW
Plaza) (30
NW (202) 332-271 NW (202) 333-4 87
2635 Connecticut Avenue,
1
503
1
7th Street,
I
NW (202) 462-8999
67 5 Lowell Avenue, McLean (703) 847- 77
Tako
7756 Wisconsin Avenue, Bethesda (30
1
1
)
652-7030
1
Tono Sushi 2605 Connecticut Avenue, NW (202) 332-7300 Yoko 2946-J Chain Bridge Road, Oakton (703) 255-6644 Yosaku
47 2 Wisconsin Avenue, 1
963-6868
294-0553
1
Tachibana Grill
) 1
(202) 887-0900
2309 Wisconsin Avenue,
Sushi Taro
) 1
NW (202) 966-0023
Sakana
2026 P
1
Frederick Road/Route 355, Rockville (30
4620 Wisconsin Avenue,
Sushi-Ko
1
NW (202) 530-5500
1
Sake Club
947- 283
1
1
67 9 Curran Street, McLean (703) 893-0
Murasaki
) 1
24 5 Centreville Road, Herndon (703) 7 3-0088
Kaz Sushi Bistro Miyagi
NW
NW
(202) 363-4453
8
11
2
55
1
More Recommendations
The Best with Tables Bistro Bis
Cafe Atlantico
405 Eighth
Charlie Palmer Steak
Galileo
I
I
2
1
st
1
(202) 66 -2700 1
Street,
1
NW
1
NW
(202) 547-8 00 1
(202) 625-2 50
Street,
1
1
The Kennedy Center Roof Terrace
NW
(202) 393-08
Constitution Avenue,
1
NW (Latham Hotel) Street. NW (202) 293-7 9
M
3000
Citronelle
the Kitchen
in
NW
5 E Street,
1
273
Virginia
New
and
Hampshire Avenues,
(202)416-8555
Maestro
700 Tysons Boulevard (Ritz-Carlton), Tysons Corner (703) 82
Melrose
24th and
-
1
5
1
1
NW (Park Hyatt Hotel) (202) 955-3899 2132 Florida Avenue. NW (202) 462-5 43
M
Restaurant Nora
Streets,
1
The Best Views America 50 Massachusetts Avenue, NE (Union Station) (202) 682-9555 Hotel Washington Roof 515 5th Street, NW (202) 638-5900 6th and H Streets, NW (Hay-Adams Hotel) (202) 638-2570 Lafayette 1
1
New
Heights
23 7 Calvert Street, 1
1811 Columbia Road,
Perry's
Potomack Landing 3000 K
Sequoia
Tony
& Joe's
NW
(202) 234-4
(202) 234-62
1
1
1
Marina Drive, Alexandria (703) 548-0001
I
NW
Street,
3050 K
NW
Street,
The View Steakhouse
(202) 944-4200
NW
(202) 944-4545
1401 Lee Highway (Key Bridge Marriott), Arlington
(703)243-1745
The Best Wine Colvin Run
M
1
20
D.C. Coast
1
11
1
40
Fiore di Luna I
1
NW
(in
the Latham Hotel) (202) 625-2 50 1
K Street, NW (in the Four Points K Street, NW (202) 2 6-5988
Hotel) (202) 589-0699
1
1025-1 Seneca 1
9 5 1
1
Road
NW
2 st Street,
Gerard's Place
Grapeseed
Street,
8045 Leesburg Pike/Route 7,Tysons Corner (703) 356-9500
Corduroy
Galileo
Lists
3000
Citronelle
Seneca Square), Great
(in
(703) 444-4060
5th Street,
1
NW
(202) 737-4445
4865-C Cordell Avenue, Bethesda (30
Inn at Little Washington
Falls
(202) 293-7 9
)
986-9592
1
Middle and Main Streets, Washington.Virginia
(540) 675-3800
Jaleo
7255
480 Seventh
NW (202) 628-7949;
Street,
Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda
(301)91 3-0003
2000 Pennsylvania Avenue,
KInkead's
L'Auberge Chez Francois
Le Paradou
NW
(202)296-7700
322 Springvale Road, Great
678 Indiana Avenue,
NW
Falls
(703) 759-3800
(202) 347-6780
Maestro
700 Tysons Boulevard (Ritz-Carlton),Tysons Corner (703) 82
Melrose
24th and
Obelisk
2029 P
PayaThai
Sam and Seasons
M
Streets,
Street,
N
W
NW
(in
(202) 872-
1
1
80
84 7 Old Courthouse Road,Vienna (703) 883-388 1
Harry's
1
200
1
(202) 944-2000
NW NW
9th Street,
2800 Pennsylvania Avenue,
1
-
1
5
1
the Park Hyatt Hotel) (202) 955-3899
(202) 296-4333
(in
the Four Seasons Hotel)
274
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
The Best Wine
Lists (continued)
801 Pennsylvania Avenue,
Signatures
Taberna del Alabardero Vidalla
Zola
990
1
800
M
776
NW
Street,
F Street,
1
NW
NW (202)628-5900 NW (202) 429-2200
Street,
I
(202) 659- 990 1
(202) 654-0999
Restaurant Profiles **y2
ADDIE'S MODE RN AMERICAN I
I
20 Rockville
1
MODERATE
|
•••
QUALITY
|
Pike, Rockville; (30
)
VALUE
|
••••
|
ZONE OB I
88 -008 1
1
and Sunday When to go Late lunch, mid-week Entree range $9-$27 Payment VISA, MC, AMEX, DC Service rating ***i/2 Friendliness rating **** Parking Free lot Bar Beer and wine Wine selection
Reservations Not
Good Dress Lunch
available Saturday
Casual, informal
Monday-Friday,
I
1
Disabled access Good Customers
:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Saturday,
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-9:30 Setting and atmosphere
This
is
p.m.; Friday
house turned into a cartoon
rooms
brightly painted primary blue,
and yellow; collections of oddball clocks;
plastic place mats;
coat hooks; and antique stoves as serving tables. actually
come
House
specialties
and Saturday, 5:30-10 p.m.
a simple suburban
fantasy, a family dine-in kitchen of the future past:
red,
Locals, area business
noon-2:30 p.m.
And
doorknobs mounted
as
the simple white oval platters
as a pleasant surprise in this era of florid china. Playful tastes starring
the
likes
cheese (appetizer or entree-sized); seared scallops cous and pesto;
soft-shell crabs
over
linguini;
duck
in
of grilled marinated quail and goat
mango sauce or
black olive cous-
confit with baby beets
and parsnips;
crab cakes over polenta; ostrich with onion compote; cornmeal-crusted oysters with roasted corn and prosciutto; seared tuna with shrimp wontons. Variations of pescado Andalucia, fish (halibut, bass, or
Other recommendations
rockfish) with mussels, potatoes,
shrimp taco
and merguez sausage stew; updated duck cassoulet;
salad; grilled vegetables
Entertainment and amenities Rockville Pike
flavor.
Outdoor
seating (though with a close view of
traffic).
Summary and comments in
with real
the kitchen, and
it
Owners
shows: The food
Jeff is
and Barbara Black are simply having fun
trendy and smart without being overly
showy; flavorings are distinctive but not overwhelming;
When
the urge for comfort food strikes one of them,
pork chops. Lunch
White chili,
Flint Mall
and
Kitchen fully
in
salads.
is
much
Jeff
is
— sandwiches
in
both.
carefully considered.
crowds from
(including a fried oyster sandwich),
usually tending their
Bethesda, both sensibilities
obvious
is
apt to be roast chicken or
simpler, geared to the working/shopping
across the street
Though
salt
it's
new
—the comfy and the
restaurant, Black's Bar iconoclastic
—are
&
delight-
Restaurant Profiles
ANDALE
i^i^Vi
MODERN MEXICAN 40
MODERATE
|
QUALITY ••/2
|
NW; (202)
Seventh Street.
1
275
•••
VALUE
ZONE
|
3
783-3 33; www.andaledc.com 1
When
Reservations Recommended
|
to go Monday nights for wine
specials; Fridays
for bar snacks; otherwise anytime
Entree range $l4-$28 Paynnent VISA, MC.
AMEX. DC, D Service rating
*••
•••*
rating
Friendliness
Metro Bar
Archives/Navy, Memorial/Penn Quarter or Metro Center Parking Valet, pay lots Full
service
Wine
Customers
Good Dress
selection
Locals,
Lunch Monday-Saturday,
I
1
Disabled access Good
Business, casual
embassy/government types, young
tequila sippers
:30 a.m.-3 p.m.
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5-10
p.m.; Friday
The room
Setting and atmosphere
and Saturday, 5-1
comfy but
is
a
p.m.
I
(intentionally) cartoonish,
little
with big bold primary colors, bouncy booths, and overripe ladies on the wall.
House aged
Grilled lO-ounce porterhouse
specialties
New
York
chop
in
a fruity red
mole sauce;
melted manchego cheese; pan-seared grouper
strip steak with
filet
served over roasted corn puree and sauteed broccoli rabe; leg of lamb rubbed with a paste of red chiles, garlic and oregano; achiote-marinated tuna with sour orange juice.
Other recommendations the
smoked
chipotle
Summary and comments was
it
one of the best
formed the Mark from
town.
Chef Alison Swope has been
New
into
Southwestern
but her interest gradually focused and sharpened on
chic,
explorations of those areas, she abruptly shut
all
into Andale.
down and
in
than a
less
month
trans-
which has quickly become the meeting place of interna-
the Americas, North (and north of the border) to Central and South. vegetarians, too. as there are several veggie
good change of pace for
This makes a
in
regional Mexican cuisine; having turned her daily specials into sequential
contemporary
tionals
sauce of salsa dips,
in
the best; for bar snacking.try the chile-toasted peanuts. Andale
is
also has a collection of fine tequilas,
cuisine since before
a
Of the
Pan-seared shrimp and sea scallops
toasted pumpkin seeds; oozing rellenos; shrimp and chile empenadas.
dishes and meat-free salads and noshes.
•**
ATHENIAN PLAKA GREEK
INEXPENSIVE
|
•••
QUALITY
VALUE
|
•••
ZONE OA I
|
I
7833
Woodmont Avenue,
Bethesda; (30
Reservations Accepted
When
MC.AMEX.
D
VISA,
CB. DC,
Parking Validated, free service
Wine
Customers
Open
)
986- 337 1
1
to go Anytime Entree range $9-$ 6 1
Service rating
valet (weekends)
•••
Payment
•*•
Friendliness rating
Metro Bethesda or
Bar
Medical Center
Full
Good
selection Limited Dress Informal, casual Disabled access
Locals
Monday-Thursday,
II
a.m.- 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday,
II
a.m.-
1
I
p.m.;
Sunday, 10 a.m.- 10 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere
A
quietly
proud
little
dining
room, with fresh
greenery, plaster arches, and vivid travel-mag murals of the
home
country.
linen
and
(In fact,
it
276
Part Eight
Dining and Restaurants
shares ownership with the nearby La Panetteria
House
good weather,
Italian restaurant.) In
on the sidewalk.
tables are set up
Among entrees, veal
specialties
baked with eggplant, wine, and two cheeses;
exohikon (lamb sauteed with artichokes, calamata phyllo); pan-fried
Among
baby squid.
olives,
and cheese, and then baked
appetizers, a combination platter of
calf's
in
liver,
sweetbreads, meatballs, sausage, and lamb (for two); eggplant stuffed with pine nuts, raisins,
and tomato; pan-fried smelt.
Other recommendations feta;
Broiled red snapper; shrimp baked with tomatoes and
swordfish.
Summary and comments this
is
Don't
dishes to order, and they
mean
—
it
it's
the suburban storefront location fool you;
let
not your father's greasy Greek
joint.
a
The
kitchen says
slow, but
little
these dishes are also available at lunch for a couple of dollars
takes time to prepare
it
right.
it's
A
number
surprising
**
AUSTIN GRILL TEX-MEX
INEXPENSIVE
of
less.
|
QUALITY
••Vi
•••
VALUE
|
|
ZONES
3, 5,
I
OA,
I
I
B,
I
I
I
vvww.austingrill.com
750 E Street, NW; (202) 393-3776 2404 Wisconsin Avenue, NW; (202) 337-8080 7278 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda; (30 ) 656- 366 8430-A Old Keene Mill Center, West Springfield; (703) 644-3 80 King Street, Old Town Alexandria; (703) 684-8969 1
1
1
I
1
1
Reservations For
parties of 10+
1
ness rating
***
Metro
Parking Street Bar access Poor,
Brunch
all
Full
Saturday and Sunday,
Friday and Saturday,
I
I
I
Wine
upstairs I
to go Late afternoon,
selection
Customers
Fair
Dress Casual Disabled
1
a.m.-midnight; Sunday,
Hot adobe
I
I
a friends' franchise:
One
House
specialties
in
Crayola-colored
pastels,
Carnitas (braised pork marinated with
chili;
grilled fish of
"Austin special enchilada" with three sauces; grilled
Other recommendations
1
p.m.;
I
tile,
buffalo and in
funky
not a mom-and-pop
If
who
started at age 19
in
Bethesda. garlic,
peppers and onions); chicken enchiladas with tomatillo sauce; rolled chicken tamales with Texas
1:30 a.m.-
and Tex-Mex pun art and T-shirts
of the original prep cooks
Georgetown became the head chef
I
a.m.-IO:30 p.m.
vinyl-booth roadhouse settings. Great Texas music on the PA. it's
Friendli-
a.m.-3 p.m.
I
lizard stenciling, angular art-joke graphics,
joint,
***
Local, student
1:30 a.m.- 0:30 p.m.;Tuesday-Thursday,
Setting and atmosphere
Entree
late night
DC, D Service rating
Metro Center; (Woodmont Avenue): Bethesda
(E Street):
service
bathrooms are
Lunch/dinner Monday,
When
MCAMEX,
range $7-$ 8 Payment VISA,
oranges
grilled
grilled steak taco;
with
hand-
the day; real all-beef chunky
chili;
fish.
Margaritas; chile-flavored rib eye;
fajita platters;
lime-
marinated chicken breast; barbecued brisket.
Summary and comments these are plain-Jane spots; original
The
in fact,
Georgetown branch made
out back. The hot-hot sauces
—
perfect antidote for designer
chili
cuisine (not that
they're corporate cousins of the slick-chic Jaleo).The its first
friends just
a choice of four
from the smell of the smoker
—were the
local
endorphin
addict's
— 5
Restaurant Profiles
277
drugs before chiles were cool, so to speak. Incidentally, the Springfield location has been
experimenting with serving breakfast, but a
version.
fairly straight
•**
BANGKOK GARDEN INEXPENSIVE
THAI
QUALITY***
|
VALUE****
|
I
4906
St.
Elmo Avenue, Bethesda; (30
) 1
Reservations Accepted on weekends
Parking
Wine
Street, free lot after 7 p.m.; valet
Sunday-Thursday,
I
***'
2
Thursday through Saturday Bar
animals
—
Customers
1
Small, cheery,
I
I
Full
service
Local, ethnic
a.m.-
1
p.m.
I
and so crowded with brass and plaster
temple Foo dogs, peafowl, deer
giraffes, elephants,
Buddha resembles
Fair
1
****
Friendliness rating
a.m.- 0:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday,
I
Setting and atmosphere
OA
to go Anytime Entree range $6-$
rating
selection House Dress Casual Disabled access
Open
I
1
When
Payment VISA, MC.AMEX, D Service
ZONE
|
95 -0670
a Thai St. Francis of Assisi. Enlarged
—
that the enshrined
young
and framed colorful Thai cur-
rency and portraits of the royal family are also prominent.
House
A
specialties
duck
rich, skin-and-fat
in five-flavor
sauce; fat "drunken" noo-
pork and crab appetizer cake); squid with
dles with beef;
hoy jawh
chile (unusual,
almost purely squid and scarce vegetable
(a crispy
filler);
basil
and
the tangy rather than
searing seafood combination.
Other recommendations light
Soft-shell crabs in
one of
one very
five sauces, including
version with asparagus and oyster sauce; steamed crab dumplings; shrimp
chile
in
oil.
Summary and comments with Americans, that
Though
relatively low-profile
amid the Thai
very popular within the Thai community
it's
Is;
restaurant rewards regular attendance and obvious interest because dishes aren't
on the
ticularly delicious sic
that
is
English
example
menu, but are is
slightly flatten
it
mouth. At $8,
it's
some
who knows to
and
be used as the
basil
utensil:
—about
and grasp a bite of meat with
it
a
tablespoon
and pop the whole morsel into your
INEXPENSIVE
irirVi |
QUALITY
I
Reservations Suggested
MCAMEX, DC, D
ing Free
lot
access Good
Open
***
Bar
Full
When
service
Customers
5-
1
|
VALUE
I
***
|
ZONE
Plaza), Rockville;(30l)
I
OB
424-5533
to go Anytime Entree range $9-$ 4 1
Service rating
Monday-Thursday,
p.m.; Sunday,
ask.A par-
a steal of a meal.
855 Rockville Pike (Wintergreen
VISA,
of the best
and served with a steaming basket of "sticky
Take a pinch of rice
BENJARONG THAI
boom
this family-run
the "Thai steak tartare," a beef version of aThai pork clas-
rich with garlic, cilantro,
rice" intended to
anyone
available to
—
Wine
***
Payment
****
Friendliness rating
Park-
selection House Dress Informal Disabled
Local, ethnic 1:30 a.m.- 10 p.m.; Friday
and Saturday,
I
1:30 a.m.- 0:30 1
p.m.
Setting and atmosphere
A
simple but soothing
room decorated
with off-white
grass wallpaper, pink linens, black lacquer chairs, and a few Thai carvings and figurines.
Dining and Restaurants
278
Part Eight
House
specialties
mussels steamed
Duck with asparagus
season); spicy duck and coriander salad;
(in
lemongrass and spices; sliced beef
in
squid sauteed with chiles and
with lime juice and chiles
basil;
—even
Other recommendations
and the best pra
stuffed with
red wine sauce; fresh
—
a sort of squid ceviche
mug
Thai-smart town.
in this
in
delicate scallions and gin-
red curry sauce; red curry duck;
noodles; a rattle-shaped chicken drummette appetizer
chowfoon
ground chicken and pork;
of barbecue beef
filet in
Steamed whole snapper with
ger sauce or crispy fried flounder; spicy shrimp
seafood combination
pla
soft-shell crabs in a choice of sauces;
and a sort
paste with scallions.
in chile
Summary and comments
Benjarong (the name refers to a type of multicolored
Thai porcelain) closed awaiting to Thailand to sharpen their
new
skills.
but the kitchen
digs,
Many of the
staff
used the hiatus for a
trip
dishes here are Southern Thai, meaning
the curries are creamier and there's a good pork satay on the menu. There are also several
good vegetarian
uncertain of spice
choices, including a delicately peppery sauteed watercress.
levels, inquire; this
is
a hospitable and
1
you're
••*
BISTRO BIS MODERATE
FRENCH
If
accommodating establishment.
QUALITY ••'/2
|
|
VALUE ••'/2
|
ZONE
3
I
5 E Street,
NW; (202)
66 -2700; www.bistrobis.com 1
Reservations Recommended
When
to go Late lunch, early or
late
dinner Entree
range $l4-$32 Payment VISA, MC.AMEX, DC, D Service rating *•• Friendliness rating ***i/2 Metro Union Station Parking Valet after 5:30, pay lot Bar Full service
Wine
Customers
Breakfast Every
Brunch
Lunch
Good Dress
selection
day,
Disabled access Good
7-10 a.m.
Saturday and Sunday,
Monday-Friday,
Dinner Every
day,
I
sleek, chic,
I
1
:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
5:30-10:30 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere it's
Business, informal
Political/media biz, food trendies
Its
name
and a touch oblique,
its
is
short for "bistro," and
like
that offhand joke,
long space divided into a series of step-down
semi-detached dining "suites" off a hallway. The dark old Tiber Creek Pub has been
transformed into a very blond-wood and etched-glass complex that
you
feel that
your companions may be
mezzanine with lobby-like
chairs,
bar, cigar-bar
and an almost voyeuristic display of exposed-steel
kitchen countertop. Even the fireplace has changed from
House
somehow makes
you by the hour: zinc-topped
billing
London pubby to
specialties Intriguingly idiosyncratic semi-classic French
tartare topped with cornichon fans and served (appetizers); pan-roasted monkfish
wrapped
on super-crisp
cured
in
ham with
garlic
L.A. clubby.
tangy steak
fare:
potato chips
apples and Calvados;
rabbit with mustard sauce; braised veal short ribs; huge and tender scallops; and the
more
traditional bistro-esque steak
Other recommendations lunchtime. Game specials are
Summary and comments
'n' fries,
sweetbreads, duck
Roast poultry,
in
confit, etc.
generous portions
—
a half-hen even at
carefully tended, too.
"Bis" can also
the second fine production from the team of
this
may be
Buben ofVidalia (see
later in
mean an encore, but while
Sallie
and
Jeff
Restaurant Profiles this section),
resembles that neo-Southern favorite only
it
tional fare as limiting.
The
quantity of food
and the
era, but the delicacy of seasoning
much on
to leave cially
is
staff's light
the plate. The all-French wine
list
in this
hand with
some
has
business-expense
rich sauces
make
fine bargains
beyond the warhorse burgundy or
for those willing to look
to see tradi-
in its refusal
not so unusual
on
1
24
MODERATE
M
Street.
|
NW; (202)
VALUE
|
•••
When
Reservations Recommended
service
Wine
ZONES
|
338-3830 to go Pre- or post-theater Entree range
$l5-$26 Brunch $20 Payment VISA, MC, AMEX,
***
Friendliness rating
hard
espe-
irirVi
QUALITY •*':
I
3
it
it,
chablis labels.
BISTRO FRANq:AIS FRENCH
279
Parking Street
DC
•••
Service rating
(validated parking for
selection House Dress Casual Disabled access
two hours) Bar
Full
Good Customers
Local, ethnic
Open
Every
Brunch
day,
Sunday
I
I
a.m.-
I
a.m.
1
a.m.^
I
p.m.
Setting and atmosphere
ware, and clanking trays.
House cially
This old reliable hasn't changed
was new to Washington
"bistro"
specialties
Dover
sole,
This
is
Other recommendations which
all
menus
Summary and comments and the especially
times seems as
menu
game
steak
'n'
—
espe-
or lamb with artichokes.
birds,
here
fries
is
daily specials are
probably the standard
is
if
for $20, including wine.
For
all
telling fact that
its
feeling a
is
many
many
this old favorite gets
fashionable crowds, and
little
pleasures
—
local chefs eat
famous
its
late-night serv-
here after-hours
MODERATE
QUALITY
|
I
—
it
some-
the Rodney Dangerfield treatment from the
bedraggled
in
response.
***
& KITCHEN
BLACK'S BAR SEAFOOD
The
flat-
others should be measured. And there are fixed-price lunch, $15, and
pre-theater fixed dinner
ice
—the
signature spit-roasted chicken
confit, roast
word
since the
right.
the sort of place where as nice as the
vin, its
even better: for instance, duck
against
much
pots, rotisserie spits, frankly well-used
other words, just
In
coq au
— hanging
••••
|
VALUE****
|
ZONE OA I
7750 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda; (301) 652-6278 Reservations Recommended
ment
VISA,
DC
MC, AMEX.
Metro Bethesda Parking tion
Good house
list
Pay
Dress
When
to go Anytime Entree range $l6-$26 Pay-
Service rating lot,
***
street meters, valet
Business, casual
Friendliness rating ***i/2
Bar
Full
service
Wine
Disabled access Yes Customers
selecLocal,
business
Lunch Monday-Friday. :30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Sunday-Thursday. 5-10 p.m.; Friday and I
1
Setting and atmosphere cleaned up from
its
A
Saturday. 5-1
I
funky/fun version of a Gulf Coast
p.m. fish
house, but a
little
previous bayou/garage-chic incarnation: raw bar attached to the
main bar and couch-slouch cocktail area; not too many fish-decor jokes and a
partially
280
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
glassed-off dining
room; also a second-story deck for good weather.
specialties "Campeche," a sort of crab-shrimp ceviche but served parfait-style
House
New
with tomatoes and avocado;
and cheese
(all
appetizers);
duck breast with cheese
Orleans chopped salad with roasted corn and
fried crav/fish tails; braised
sweet potatoes topped with
homemade
grilled
duck enchilada with poblanos
seafood sausage with shaved fennel
salad; crispy
grits.
Other recommendations ceviche du jour; and a huge
Crabcakes; tequila-cured salmon;
grilled
shaved calamari;
de mer latter at $ 9 for two or $36 for four. At happy
fruits
1
hour, oysters and shrimp are extra-cheap.
Summary and comments
Black (see
Jeff
for Addie's, above) and executive
listing
chef David Craig range across and around the Gulf Coast for recipe ideas, saluting Mexico,
New
Orleans, San Luis Pass, TX, Siesta Key, FL, Perdido Beach, AL, and the
Atchafalaya River Basin, until
l_A.
not the sort of place that seems ground-breaking
It's
becomes one of your
it
BOMBAY BISTRO INDIAN
INEXPENSIVE
.
**V2
QUALITY
|
.
regular stops.
•••
|
••••
VALUE
|
ZONES JOB,
MB
I
98 West Montgomery Avenue, Rockville; (301) 762-8798 3570 Chain Bridge Road, Fairfax; (703) 359-58 10; vvww.bombaybistro.com Reservations Not accepted 1
***
Metro
When
to go
MCAMEX, DC, D
$7-$ 7 Payment VISA,
(Rockville) Rockville
Early evening, lunch buffet
Service rating
Parking Free
tion House Dress Casual Disabled access Yes
Lunch Fairfax:
Rockville:
Monday-Friday,
Monday-Friday,
Dinner
Rockville:
I
I
I
lot
Entree range
**• Friendliness rating
Bar Beer and wine Wine
Customers
selec-
Local, ethnic, business
a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, noon-3 p.m.;
1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Saturday
and Sunday, noon-3 p.m.
Sunday-Thursday, 5-9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-10 p.m.;
Fairfax:
Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-1 0:30 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere in
Rockville's storefront family-style diner
is
made cheery
an almost Christmasy way, with red and green native costumes and gilded slippers
hung on the wall along with offshoot
House
is
specialties
varieties of freshly
and
pilaf
strings of stuffed birds
Its
newer
puri;
Thai vegetarian and non-vegetarian; traditional platters of three
cooked vegetables or chicken and lamb curry with
Tandoori chicken
hottest item on the menu;
or,
Goan
lentils, raita, rice
even better, tandoori salmon; lamb vindaloo, the
fish
curry with a golden sauce; many fine vegetarian
choices; mild chicken tikka or spicy chicken madras; lentil
above wooden booths.
equally simple and comfy.
oothapam
(a
South India "crepe" of
and rice dough, stuffed with onions, tomatoes, and green peppers).
Other recommendations biryani;
whole Maryland
Lamb rogan
rockflsh marinated
Summary and comments
josh or shish kebab; chicken or vegetable in
yogurt, ginger, garlic, and spices.
Located among the
lavs^ers'
warrens of
historic
Rockville, this squeeze-'em-in eatery started out as an Indians' Indian lunch spot, but
the
word
leaked out.
Now, even with three or
four cooks working, you
wait at dinner for a table at the original location, which
is
may have to
the second good reason to go
for the all-you-can-eat lunchtime buffet (at both branches). The first
good reason
is
the
Restaurant Profiles price: ter.
281
$7 on weekdays and $9 on weekends. Meanwhile, the cooking keeps getting bet-
Preview the restaurant
at
www.bombaybistro.com. Note; The owners
upscale regional Indian restaurant
also
BURMESE
the
***
BURMA INEXPENSIVE
QUALITY
|
I
740 Sixth
own
Cleveland Park, Indigue (below).
in
Street,
•••
|
•••
VALUE
NW (upstairs); (202) 638-
|
ZONE
3
280
1
Reservations Accepted When to go Anytime Entree range $6-$8 PaymentVISA, MC. AMEX, DC. D Service rating •••'2 Friendliness rating ••• Metro Gallery Place/Chinatown
Dress
Casual, informal
Parking Street Bar Beer and wine Wine selection House
Disabled access Yes, but
call
ahead Custonners Ethnic South
Asian, local, tourist
Lunch Monday-Friday, Dinner Every
day,
I
I
a.m.-3 p.m.
6-10 p.m.
A
Setting and atmosphere
modest and unobtrusive second-floor warren with
only a handful of native art on the walls to advertise
House
its
ethnicity.
specialties Kaukswe thoke, a tangy noodle dish with ground shrimp, cilantro,
red pepper, and peanuts; pickled green tea-leaf salad, a slightly sour, spicy slaw with
caramelized onions and peanuts dressed
tofu-and-shrimp
lions; a chile-spiked
in
a green tea pesto; squid with
stir-fry;
ham and
seal-
and an almost soul-food version of mus-
tard greens with shrimp, pork, or chicken.
Other recommendations
Gold
fingers, strips of squash-like calabash in a
peppery
dipping sauce; chile- and mango-flavored pork; a macrobiotic delight of substantial dried tofu with cruciferous veggies; roast
Summary and comments
duck (requires 24 hours'
Using familiar ingredients from any Asian grocery,
Burmese holdout manages to turn out tives:
not so "fishy" (no fermented less purely
tea and
smoke background call
fish
flavors surprisingly distinct
in
is
unlocked. Incidentally, this place
years. And
MCI Centre/Shakespeare Theatre
the
it's
fast
—one
is
a
of the best pre-
circuiL
BUSARA THAI
this
near rela-
of classic Chinese and Japanese cuisine. Disabled patrons
remarkable bargain: Prices haven't changed in
its
sauce or soy) or seafood-conscious as Viet-
ahead to make sure the elevator
concert stops
from
peppery and more sour-tangy than Thai, and with the concentrated
namese,
should
notice).
iririrVi
INEXPENSIVE
QUALITY
|
I
•••
|
VALUE
•••
|
ZONES
5.
MA
2340 Wisconsin Avenue, NW; (202) 337-2340 8 42 Watson Street. McLean; (703) 356-2288; www.busara.com 1
Reservations Recommended
When
to go Before 7:30 p.m. or
after 9:30 p.m.
Entree range $7-$ 7; market price higher PaymentVISA, MC.AMEX, DC, D Service rating ***i/2 Friendliness rating *** Parking Street, lot, valet after 6 p.m. 1
Bar Full tomers
Lunch
service
Wine
selection
Fair
Dress
Informal
Disabled access
No Cus-
Local, ethnic
Georgetown and McLean: Monday-Friday,
I
1
:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday,
282
I
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
1:30 a.m.—4 p.m.
Georgetown: Sunday-Thursday, 5-10:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-1
Dinner
McLean: Sunday-Thursday, 5-10:30
Setting and atmosphere
p.m.; Friday
These Thai
and Saturday, 5-1
flame-streaked tabletops looks as
if it
steel, slate,
were created by
p.m.
and cheekily mod-
siblings are aggressively
decor of molded hard black rubber, brushed
ern. The
I
p.m.
I
and heavily lacquered
former hot rod customizer
a
not to mention the ice-blue neon overhead ("busara" means "blue topaz") and post-
Pop
Outside, a partially covered patio curves around a miniature, but elegant,
art.
Japanese garden with a fountain. The Tysons Corner branch
House
Kanom
specialties
is
even brighter
Jeeb (steamed pork, crabmeat dumplings served with a
Thai soy sauce), crispy fried soft-shell crabs topped with a choice of chile and
mushrooms, or
black beans and
garlic,
quail with asparagus
onion and curry; roasted
celery,
and oyster sauce; cellophane noodles with three kinds of mushrooms; marinated pork
tomato-peanut sauce and a chile-spiked vinegar
satay with both a
Thai bouillabaisse
coconut
in
milk; country-style
Other recommendations thai; soft-shell
dip;
duck
red curry;
in
lamb curry.
Tiger shrimp grilled over watercress; vegetarian pad
crabs and whole flounder.
The Tysons branch
has a
that turns out
grill
chicken, lean pork, and assorted fresh fish and shellfish as well.
Summary and comments tation as
that
much
These are Siamese
makes them
crisp
and
filling.A
symbols next to menu items are to the
there
more is
no
familiar stars),
MSG
in
wide variety of
fairly reliable
represented (the chile-pod
and extra sauces or peppers are easy to obtain. Even
|
NW; (202)
393-08 2
nicer,
When
mentVISA,MC,AMEX,DC Service ing Street; valet at dinner, $10
Bar
|
VALUE
•**
Monday-Friday,
I
Setting and atmosphere
p.m.; Friday
A very
ZONES
I
1:30 a.m.- 1:30 p.m.
and Saturday, 5-1
stylish salon, like
and vibrant
paintings,
••* Park-
Wine Spectotor Award
Local, ethnic
1:30 a.m.-2.30 p.m.; Saturday,
tor: brilliant fabrics, large
|
Friendliness rating
service Wine selection
Dress Casual Disabled access Good Customers
Dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5-10
••••
to go Anytime Entree range $9-$25 Pay-
rating
Full
•***
.
1
Reservations Recommended
Lunch
is
anything.
|
Street,
spicing
for gauging heat; the Tysons branch sticks
CAFE ATLANTICOIMINIBAR QUALITY •••• MODERATE NUEVO LATINO 405 Eighth
on presen-
grins with the emphasis
and a lightened-up attitude toward greens and veggies
as preparation
the
I
living
loft-like
p.m.
room
of an art collec-
balconies
mosaics, and richly oiled wood. The clientele tends to match the decor
and windows,
—very
vibrant,
very "on," and frequently very loud.
House
specialties
with banana
leaf
ternut squash,
Jerk quail with plantain "foam" and pigeon peas; grilled salmon
goat cheese packets and wild mushrooms; seared sea bass with but-
lentils
and chorizo stew; roast rabbit with apples, potatoes and onions
in
red wine-coconut sauce.
Other recommendations The
Saturday "Latin dim sum" brunch, with 25-30 tapas-
— Restaurant Profiles sized dishes for
$25-$35
283
(deluxe); or pre-theater dinner, $22.
Summary and comments
Cafe Atlantico
riding
is
two waves
at once: location
and
cuisine. In the heart of the arts-intelligentsia
neighborhood around the Shakespeare The-
atre and Lansburg Building,
major restaurant
also the first
it's
New
cocina nueva, the Latin version of
Continental
sented, and, depending on your perspective, less
—
area to specialize
in this
in
lighter fare, nnore fashionably pre-
homey and more expensive
than the
Central and South American originals. Founding chef Jose Andres Ramon, winner of
numerous awards, has designed the menus well. This
really
is
but Minibar
two
—
a five
is
restaurants
in
you're into the
if
Catalonian star chef Ferran Adria,
most
Ramon
new Oyamel
playful cooking. Inspired
by
is
his
as
a three star,
New
mentor,
has designed, or rather deconstructed, such
wrapped
dishes as foie gras; "cappucino"
for Jaleo, Zaytina, and the
one, and frankly, the four-star rating
in
cotton candy; gazpacho "poppers;" and
cherry tomatoes on a needle of mozzarella cream to be shot into your mouth
—up to
30 mini-courses, all laboriously prepared by on-site chef Katsuya Fukushima.
CAFE DIVAN TURKISH
irirVi
INEXPENSIVE
QUALITY
|
I
1
**
834 Wisconsin Avenue, N W; (202)
Reservations
range $5-$ 6 1
1/2
VALUE ***!/2
|
ZONE
|
3
338- 747 1
When to go Thursdays for whole marinated rotisserie Entree Payment VISA, MC Service rating **** Friendliness rating
Helpful
**** Parking Street Bar License pending Wine selection License pending Dress Business, casual
Disabled access Good Customers
homesick Middle Eastern
Locals,
diplomats
Open
Monday-Friday,
I
a.m.-IO:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday,
I
A
Setting and atmosphere corner, with
House
I
a.m.-l
I
p.m.
remarkably (and unusually) bright and sunny triangular
windows winging out on both
ing, Turkish tile,
I
sides,
with polished Brazilian cherry floor-
and pomegranate accents. Eggplant-smothered lamb shank; the mezze platter of
specialties
feta,
hum-
mus, taramasalata, and stuffed grape leaves. Donner kebab, the thin-sliced layers of marinated lamb and veal alternately rolled
Turkish restaurants, but here
it's
Other recommendations
Summary and comments
is
a
weekend
(Turkish
flatbread
While not the most accessible
Georgetown
rife
is
— Cafe Divan
pizza)
has
in
|
325
1
Prospect Street,
with
and
terms of location
made
itself
a
neighborhood favorite by
oily standards.
***
CAFE MILANO MODERATE
topped
with restaurants and diners (and resi-
beyond the
dint of cheery service and Turkish fare far
I
most
to Eastern Asia); a lamb and chicken kebab combo.
dents) struggling for parking
ITALIAN
special at
a variety of toppings; manti (the beef-stuffed
common
the busy stretch of upper
a spit and grilled,
Slahmacun
chopped lamb and tomatoes or yogurt-topped dumplings
on
available at every meal.
QUALITY
••••
NW; (202)
VALUE
|
••••
|
ZONES
333-6 83; www.cafe-mllano.com 1
284
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
Reservations
Helpful
When
to go Late lunch,
late
Entree range $l4-$37
dinner
rating ***i/2 Friendliness rating
Payment VISA, MC, AMEX, DC Service ***i/2 Parking
Street, pay lots
ness, hip informal
Disabled access Through rear entrance Custonners
Bar
Lunch Every day, :30 a.m.^ p.m. Dinner Monday,Tuesday,and Sunday,4-I I
Brunch
Sunday,
I
Wine
service
Full
selection
Good Dress Local,
1
I
p.m.;Wednesday-Saturday,4 p.m.-midnight
a.m.-3 p.m.
I
Setting and atmosphere A cross between a haute couturier's salon and a Milan with a subway Cid, too
(all
map
Busi-
embassy
painted on the ceiling
—and new
a portrait of Placido
disco,
Domingo
as El
of which makes for interesting philosophical speculation on the direction
Italian interests
owner
have taken since the days of the Sistine Chapel). At Bice, where
Franco Nuschese was manager, the shadowboxes held wallpaper samples; here they
frame the even hip-jokier designer to be wearing one
—and
ers.There's a terrace for
House
ties
—presumably from
his closet, as
warm-weather
he never seems
named
limited-edition scarves.And the pastas are
after design-
dining and a prettier-than-usual long bar.
Ravioli Cavalli (veal-and-spinach-stuffed ravioli in a butter sage
specialties
sauce with shaved porcini mushroom); zucchini-and-basil-filled half-moon pasta with fresh
air-dried ricotta cheese; assorted grilled seafood, calamari,
tomato
shrimp and turbot with lemon, olive
cuttlefish,
steaks and chops with real tle pizzas,
and
lighter
Italian flavor,
oil
Mediterranean
and arugula; and for the
courses are available
EXPENSIVE
|
1819 Columbia Road,
NW;
•••
VALUE
|
•••
|
ZONE 6
(202) 797- 1819
When to go Anytime Entree range $ 9-$30 PayMCAMEX Service rating *** Friendliness rating **** Metro
Reservations Recommended
ment
VISA,
1
Woodley Park/Zoo/Adams-Morgan Parking
Good Dress Business, Customers Locals, foodies selection
casual
Street, pay lot
Sunday,
Dinner
Tuesday, 5:30- 10 p.m. ;Wednesday-Saturday, 5:30-
A
neighborhood that draws
House
little
Wine
service
its
p.m.; Sunday,
I
Ann Cashion and John
clientele
from
5:30- 10 p.m.
Fulchino)
in
a multi-ethnic
and wide (and young and
far
pricey for the area (which, admittedly,
specialties
1
deliberately low-key, upscale family-style cafe (see the
black-and-white photos of partners
a
Full
1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
I
Setting and atmosphere
it's
Bar
Disabled access Not wheelchair accessible
Brunch
though
lit-
***y2
QUALITY
|
light
late.
CASHION'S EAT PLACE NEW SOUTHERN
big boys,
no Chicago nakedness.There are even
Saddle of rabbit stuffed with veal,
is
old),
even
rapidly yuppifying).
ham and
truffles;
braised pork
with greens; duck confit; fried sweetbreads over spinach; duck with foie gras.
Other recommendations
Roast
free-range
chicken;
curried
mussels;
fried
seafood; almost any pork dish.
Summary and comments
Ann Cashion, a
Mississippi native, has
ern cuisine-at-the-crossroads establishment a showplace for ing that all
she sees
seasonal,
all
it
as the
American version of an
straight-forward, but continental
Italian trattoria:
in
made
new Southern all
this
South-
fare,
mean-
regional produce,
terms of combing ingredients
—the
Restaurant Profiles cornbread and wild mushrooms, the rabbit with
and plenty of vegetables, a
truffles,
ury oddly missing from many Washington plates. Note; The "seasonal" seriously. Cashion
Award
one of Washington's
is
285
menu changes
several
regional
lux-
so take
daily,
James Beard
winners.
CITRONELLE FRENCH
(aka Michael Richard's Citronelle) iriririrVi
VERY EXPENSIVE
••••
QUALITY
|
I
M
Latham Hotel, 3000
Reservations Required $l2-$38;
When
prix-fixe dinner.
**'2 Friendliness
NW; (202)
Street,
VALUE **'/2
to go Lunch, before 9 p.m. Entree range Lunch,
***
rating
ZONES
|
1
MC.AMEX, DC, D Service
$125 Payment VISA,
Parking Valet Bar
Wine Spectator Award Dress Jackets
tomers
|
625-2 50
Full
service
Wine
rating
selection
Disabled access Excellent Cus-
at dinner
Local, tourist, business
Breakfast Every
Brunch
1
day,
6:30-10:30 a.m.
0:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. on Easter, Mother's Day, and Thanksgiving
Lunch Monday-Friday, noon-2
p.m.
Dinner Sunday-Thursday, 6:30-10 Setting and atmosphere
p.m.; Friday,
6:30- 0:30 p.m.; Saturday, 6- 0:30 p.m. 1
Using a series of small
1
level shifts
the designers of this pretty but not shov/y establishment have
both intimate and expansive. The upstairs lounge
and cutaway
made
classic flannel
is
ceilings,
the space
seem
grey and green; the
downstairs rooms have a more classic look. Clearly, the star attractions are the
exposed kitchen and
its
six chefs,
sometimes unreasonably
on,
House
Although
specialties
—and the show does go
two preppers, and
salad chef
slowly. listed as
French because of Chef Michel Richard,
this
could just as well be called "Modern American," "eclectic," or simply flamboyant. Among greatest inspirations have been a faux osso bucco with veal cheeks and a potato
his
"bone"; rabbit-and-foie gras-stuffed cannelloni; cuttlefish "fettucine" with baby beets;
sweetbread and
foie gras sausage; a very nutrition-of-the-millenium fricassee of
sweet-
breads, snails, and soybeans; rabbit puzzle dishes mixing loin, limb, and rack of ribs;
sauteed foie gras; braised veal
various forms.
in
Summary and comments flagship
and he
intended), and
in
is
certainly
many ways
LA.
now made
star chef Michel Richard has
among Washington
Big
personal playground. Inspired by-and
his
this his
(no physical insult
Five chefs
in
turn inspir-
ing-other creative and engaging chefs including the Minibar's Jose Andres and Maestro 's FabioTrabocchi, when
it's
the six-course tasting
menu
good,
—
if
it's
very very good. Real food-mag addicts should go for
they can write off the tab.
****
COLVIN RUN TAVERN MODERN AMERICAN
|
EXPENSIVE
|
QUALITY
•••
'/a
|
VALUE
•••
|
ZONE
MA
8045 Leesburg Pike.Tysons Corner; (703): 356-9500 Reservations Recommended $2 -$37 1
rating
When
to go Lunch, early dinner Entree range
Payment VISA, MCAMEX, DC, D Service
****
Parking Valet Bar
Business, Friday casual
Full
service
Wine
rating
**••
selection Very
Friendliness
Good Dress
Disabled access Good Customers Local power lunchers.
286
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
business diners, platinum card romantics
Lunch
Monday-Friday,
I
1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-
and Saturday, 5:30- 0:30
p.m.; Friday
1
p.m.; Sunday,
1
5-9 p.m. Setting and atmosphere
This
decor areas and menu items. place
is
It's
an unobstrusively good-looking restaurant, with a
fire-
the lounge and a gracious marble bar (which wraps around the wine room) and
in
those "regional" touches (flagstone a
something of a concept restaurant, where four
— Nantucket, the Shenandoah, Charleston, and Maine—are each represented by
regions
welcome
relief,
actually.This
in
the Shenandoah,
but decor
etc.),
background
is
peak
a very busy neighborhood, so expect to adjust to
is
hours.
House
The menu changes almost
specialties
constantly, but look for such offerings
as squab with potato gnocchi; Zinfandel-braised short ribs; veal cheeks; stuffed leg of
lamb rolled to the table and
and similar cart service for venison, rack of
sliced;
veal,
lamb, and so on, depending on the market.
Other recomnnendatlons
Pan-roasted
seared
rockfish;
with
scallops
sherry-
lemon; crispy sweetbreads; rabbit-foie gras terrine, and rabbit with sweetbreads. changes
Menu
or often.
daily
A number of food
Summary and comments
and wine publications,
in
and outside
the area, have taken note of Colvin Run as one ofWashington's best newer restaurants,
and with reason.
It's
the second child of chef
downtown. And while he sous-chef
Kinkead's territory),
is
not
Gaetjen,
Jeff
he keeps a close eye on
Bob Kinkead of the eponymous Kinkead's
the kitchen (and
in
quite
is
in
fact the
menu, under former
being
different,
heavy
in
CORDUROY MODERN AMERICAN
iri^i^Vi |
EXPENSIVE
Four Points Hotel, 120!
K
VISA,
Parking
|
QUALITY
NW; When to
Street,
•••
|
VALUE
•••
|
ZONE
MA
(202) 589-0699
go Anytime Entree range $I6-$4I PayMC, AMEX, D Service rating ***i/2 Friendliness rating ****
Reservations Recommended
ment
carno-
quality.
Street, pay lots, valet
Business, Friday casual
Bar
Full
service
Wine
selection Very good Dress
Disabled access Good Customers Business, food-conscious
commuters Breakfast Monday-Friday, 6:30-10:30
Lunch Dinner
and Sunday, 7-1
Sunday-Friday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Saturday, 5:30-1
Setting and atmosphere accents
House coulis;
a.m.; Saturday
I
a.m.
Every day, noon-2:30 p.m.
— but
Dark and earthy
I
p.m.
— mahogany with wheat and eggplant
hospitable, with views of the kitchen and the bar to provide bustle.
specialties
Goat cheese
in
potato-crust tarte over roasted red pepper
pan-seared halibut with corn and chanterelles; buffalo with
mushroom
ravioli;
wild striped bass with chanterelles and Chinese long beans.
Other recommendations
Soft-shell crabs
and tangy unripe grapes; veal cheeks
osso bucco; roast duck breast with turnips, bok choy and
Summary and comments
fig
sauce.
Chef Tom Power has been through the kitchens of
Cit-
1
Restaurant Profiles ronelle and the
Old Angler's
but seems most at
Inn,
and seasonal ingredients to good
local
ington
—and even
more
his
so they're easy for
all
effect
—
home
thankfully, a
menu
bar
is
K
1
Street.
Reservations
menu
diners, the bar
few
ranges from
(Note that weekend
pastas.
**i/2 |
MODERATE
NW; (202) A
uses
Wash-
in
only.)
MODERN AMERICAN 40
own menu. He
COAST
D.C.
1
his
growing movement
elaborate dishes have a becoming modesty of presentation,
comers to accept. For solo
casual salads to a nice lobster salad sandwich and a
lunch
with
287
QUALITY***
|
VALUE***
|
ZONE
|
3
2 6-5988; www.dccoast.com
virtual necessity
When
to go Late lunch, dinner Entree range
$l4-$30 PaymentVISA,MC,AMEX, DC, D,T Service rating ***'/2 Friendliness
****
rating pay lots
Bar
Metro McPherson Square Parking Valet service
Full
Wine
abled access Good Customers Business,
Lunch Monday-Friday,
I
light tourists,
minimum),
after 5 p.m. ($5
Good Dress
selection Very
Business, informal Dis-
better convention
1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10:30
p.m.; Friday
and Saturday, 5:30-1
p.m.; Sunday,
I
closed.
Setting and atmosphere
The
restaurant's
name
is
a sort of joke
previous stints at Washington's "waterfront" River Club,
The decor
is
a
New
on chef Jeff Tunk's
Orleans, and San Diego.
low-key pun to match, with a bronze mermaid, a gently
rolling ceiling
(the curl of which allows mezzanine diners a view of the bar and kitchen
staff),
fan-
pleated sconces that could have been Neptune's cockle shells, and huge oval mirrors that
make the
House ters
topped with
saute;
tuna
reflected customers
menu
specialties The
The wine
and out of your imagination.
—
fresh half-shelled oys-
and sake; smoked lobster finished with a soy
halibut; lobster bisque
list is
in
Calypso as the mermaid
a sorbet of pickled ginger
mushroom-crusted
ravioli.
seem to swim as
is
with lobster-stuffed dumplings; fresh
interesting and moderately priced, and the wines by the
and refreshing.
glass are blessedly unpredictable
Other recommendations
and crab cakes; cornmeal-fried oysters.
Soft-shell crabs
Summary and comments
This-smart-but-not-showy
between two booming neighborhoods
—the
revived
the reviving Convention Center/MCI Centre area
restaurant
downtown
—and on the
is
balanced
business district and
14th Street "fault line"
of eateries drawing trend-sawy young types with expense accounts. Even better, llght-and-light alternative to
chophouses. For a quick
downtown's preponderance of
spiritual
pick-me-up, caviar by the ounce
is
i^i^irVi
MODERN AMERICAN
|
MODERATE
8 8 Connecticut Avenue,
ment VISA, MCAMEX, DC Farragut
Wine
selection
|
QUALITY
NW; (202)
Reservations Recommended
Metro
a
available at the bar.
EQUINOX 1
it's
and big-beef
rich sauces
When
****
331-81
18;
|
VALUE ***i/2
ZONE
3
to go Lunch Entree range $l8-$33 Pay-
Service rating
****
Friendliness rating
North or McPherson Square Parking Valet,
Good Dress
|
wvvw.equinoxrestaurant.com
Business, casual
street
Bar
Full
**** service
Disabled access Good Customers
288
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
Foodies, business
Lunch
Monday-Friday,
I
1
:30 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10
p.m.; Friday
and Saturday, 5:30-10:30
p.m.; Sunday,
5-9 p.m. Setting and atmosphere
The best
thing about the decor at Equinox
is its
unob-
trusiveness: smart tailored shades of charcoal and matte metal like a chalk-stripe suit. (Actually,
The
good metaphor
a
it's
Todd Gray's polished and
for chef
glass-walled sidewalk area
reticent technique.)
though better
particularly popular,
is
the evening,
in
after the rush-hour traffic slows.
House
"Barbecued salmon" with roasted sweet corn, Spanish peppers
specialties
and backyard
sauteed spinach and shallots; foie gras with rhubarb compote; lamb
basil;
shank paired with
loin
and pumpkin bread pudding; soft-shelled crabs over fresh veg-
etable julienne; peanut-crusted pork tenderloin with braised rappahannock greens,
sweet onion and cider pork
free-range chicken breast with carmelized arti-
jus; grilled
choke hearts, preserved lemon and nicoise
Other recommendations
The
olives; grilled quail.
dishes on the chef's six-course tasting meal
were
not on the menu, but they became such an open secret, and so popular, that Equinox
now
serves only fixed price
menus
at dinner: three-, four-,
or six-courses for $55-$85
without wines.
Summary and comments
Chef-owner Todd Gray spent many years
on-site chef at Galileo, and that kitchen's consistently excellent reputation heavily
on
work
his
(in fact, his
leaving in part forced Galileo
honcho Roberto Donna to
rededicate himself to the art of cooking as well as restauranteering). out, however, that
now
that he has his
which he performed under Jean-Louis
own
head, he's not cooking
Palladin),
but what he
heavy on fresh seafood and updated Chesapeake Bay quently, but
in
gated to the
calls
flavors.
It
must be pointed
Italian
The menu changes
side; light
sauces based on reductions and natural flavors; and a fondness
is
also overseeing in
—see the examples
development of the tony Salamander
Inn and Sheila
Middleburg.Virginia.
ETRUSCO
i^ifVi
MODERATE
j
I
1
606 20th
Street,
Q UALITY • ••
N W; (202)
Reservations Recommended
ment
VISA,
fre-
general, expect vegetables to be incorporated into the recipes, not rele-
Johnson resort complex
ITALIAN
(or French,
mid-Atlantic regional,
for contrasting sweet and sour or rich and acid within a single dish
above. Gray
as the
depended
MC, AMEX,
Metro Dupont
Circle
DC
VALUE
|
ZONE 6
|
667-0047
When
to go Anytime Entree range $ 5-$23 Pay1
Service rating
Parking Valet Bar
Business, dressy, dressy casual
••
Full
***
service
Friendliness rating
Wine
selection
Disabled access Good Customers
***
Good Dress
Locals, business,
foodies, food pros
Dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30-10 Setting and atmosphere wing,
smooth
House
A
p.m.
cool townhouse-turned-palazzo with conservatory
plaster arches, zabaglione-yellow paint, and lurking plants.
specialties
Chargrilled fresh
pardelle with duck ragu (a signature);
fish;
warm
raw fennel and blood orange
salad; pap-
baby octopus salad with potatoes, match-
289
Restaurant Profiles stick
green beans, and black
olives; grilled squid;
Other recommendations
Ribolitta;
bread-crusted tuna with
basil
puree.
white wine osso buco (another signature);
rockfish.
Summary and comments preeminent chefs:At sistible
I
Tuscan cuisine. His
Chef-owner Francesco
he and
Ricchi,
fine
Ricchi
is
one of Washington's
broke ground with simple and
his fornner wife
irre-
and unfussy technique makes ingredients speak for
themselves, and they do. splendidly. Even risotto remembers
dignity here, neither
its
mushy nor over-sauced.
FOUR
VIETNA MESE
|
INEXPENSIVE
6769 Wilson Boulevard,
QUALITY
|
Falls
Reservations Recommended
•••
*•••
Parking Free
When
••••
ZONE
|
MB
lot
to go Late lunch-early dinner, anytime Entree
AMEX
••*•
Service rating
Friendliness
Bar Beer and wine Wine selection House Dress
Good Customers Area
Business casual, casual Disabled access lies,
VALUE
|
Church; (703) 538-6717
range $6-$25 Payment VISA, MC, rating
***
(HUONG QUE)
SISTERS
foodies, ethnic fami-
locals
Sunday-Thursday, 10:30 a.m.- 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday. 10:30 a.m.-
Open
Setting and atmosphere establishments
in
may seem to be
This
the Eden Center, but
Vietnamese customers proves
it. It
it is
first
just
among
p.m.
I
one of the many Vietnamese
peers, and
may be crowded, but
1
it's
its
high percentage of
incredibly cheery, with kids
staring into the tanks of live fish and baby frogs and the tables bright with tree orchids.
House
The
specialties
sliced rare beef salad,
salad with shrimp
classic
Vietamese banquet dish beef seven ways, including
fondue and steamed meatballs; roast
quail; a
shredded vegetable
and pork; steamed baby clams with minced pork, lime and sesame
crackers for scooping; whole steamed black cod. with that layer of fat to keep
Other recommendations
Unusually
moist.
it
spring rolls with herbs for wrapping
light
instead of lettuce; sea bass
in
black beans; crisp stir-fried asparagus; lightly curried frog's
beef
in
grape leaves; caramelized
legs in season; grilled
catfish;
pork or squid with sour
cabbage.
Summary and comments
For years
this
so because the owners of the five-star Inn at
Monday, their night non-famous.
down it's
the recipes
more than
mom-and-pop
more
and have dinner here; but
(they'll
a foodies' insider favorite, the
Washington used to drive in fact it's just
in
more every
as hospitable to the
condescend to non-ethnic diners by changing or dumbing
it
show you how
just the four sisters;
joint to the
long and a mix of is
off.
Nor does
was
Little
it's
to eat the trickier dishes). Despite the name,
their
max.The menu
more and
is
two brothers and
their parents as well, a
almost intimidating, more than 200 entries
less familiar dishes,
but
it's
hard to go wrong;
all
the family
than happy to advise you.
*^
GABRIEL N UEVO LATINO
|
MODERATE
QUALITY
|
Radisson Barcelo Hotel, 2 2 1
1
••
P Street.
|
VALUE
•••
N W; (202)
|
ZONE 6
956-6690
Reservations Recommended When to go Brunch, happy hour Entree range $8-$25
290
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
Payment VISA, MC.AMEX, DC, D Service Metro Dupont
Good
Parking
Circle
***
rating **i/2 Friendliness rating
Street, hotel valet
Bar
Full
and affordable Dress Business, casual Disabled access
Wine
service
selection
Good Customers
Busi-
ness, local
Breakfast Monday-Friday, 6:30-10:30
Brunch
Sunday,
I
Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 6-10 Setting and atmosphere and windows make
House
a.m.; Saturday
a.m.-3 p.m., seatings
I
I
p.m.; Friday
Sunny yellow
this English
and Sunday, 7-10:30 a.m.
l-l 1:30 a.m.
or 1-1:30 p.m.
and Saturday, 6-10:30 p.m
paint,
basement seem
ochre and red
like
art,
and
lots of
wood
an enclosed courtyard.
Tapas: grilled quail stuffed with sausage; neo-Salvadoran pupusas
specialties
with a crunchy cornmeal batter; scallops and spicy chorizo with cilantro and lime;
stew with
stuffed with chorizo. Entrees: vegetable
rice croquettes; roast
ham and
caramelized oranges and corn sauce; seared salmon with serrano
figs
monkfish with saffron-
tomato broth.
Summary and comments
tapas spread, weekdays from
The happy-hour
could easily pass for dinner. The real pig-out, so to speak,
with suckling pigs carved from the
cheese and
fruit;
spit; paella;
is
4-7 p.m.
Sunday brunch, complete
cassoulet; rolls, danishes, and pastries;
vegetable and couscous salads; sardines and cold cuts; omelets; polenta
and potatoes; roast beef, lamb, and ham; plus unlimited champagne and a whole dessert bar,
for $26.75. Holy mole!
all
GALILEO
iriri^Vi
EXPENSIVE
ITALIAN
|
QUALITY
I
I
II
2
1
St Street,
NW; (202)
Reservations Required VISA,
••••
|
VALUE
Metro Dupont
to go Anytime Entree range $ 5-$35 1
Parking Free
Circle
ZONE 6
|
293-7 191; www.robertodonna.com
When
MC, AMEX, CB, DC, D Service rating
Wine
•••
*•**
Payment
Friendliness rating ••*i/2
valet (dinner, except Sunday)
Bar
Full
service
selection Wine Spectator Awzrd Dress Dressy casual Disabled access
Customers Lunch
Local, tourist, business,
Monday-Friday,
I
Good
gourmet mag groupies
1:30 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10
p.m.; Friday
and Saturday, 5:30-10:30
p.m.; Sunday,
5-10 p.m. Setting and atmosphere
A
gracious stone and plaster palazzo with vaulted
recessed booths.
House
specialties
cock, guinea hen
—and
fairly often, usually
Among red
the frequent offerings are
game such
as venison
caressing a delicate pasta, as
the bread sticks and loaves, which
come
in
game
birds
—squab, wood-
and wild hare. Sea urchin appears
do wild mushrooms or
truffles.
Even
a half-dozen flavors, are to be savored.
Sauces and presentations are rarely showy, and purees often stand
in
for cream.
Other recommendations Grilled rack of veal or venison; sweetbreads; grilled or roasted seafood; homemade ravioli filled with buffalo ricotta, ham and mozzarella in a meat ragu cooked
in milk;
linguine with lobster
Summary and comments
stewed
in
pizzaiola sauce.
Like Cafe Atlantico and Minibar, Galileo and the 30-
seat Laboratorio are three-star and five-star experiences that
— most of the time—
bal-
C Restaurant Profiles ance out. Among the fer
from
Italian
city's finest
a lack of attention
restaurants
ratorio.There, the
1
restaurants by any account, Galileo had begun to suf-
by super-chef Roberto Donna,
town. However, Donna himself
in
0- to
1
2-course menu, which
day and Saturday, and optional wine pairing
Reservations required, smaller budget, the
call
new
is
$
is
$70,
who co-owns
a collection of
cooking once again
is
Monday
II
in
the Labo-
to Thursday, $ 25 1
Fri-
a marvel of market-fresh ingenuity.
is
(202) 33 -0880. And for those 1
who
big-name food on a
like
Osteria del Galileo, also inside the larger restaurant, serves
casual fare for
no more than $10
priciest Italian
wine
list
291
in
He
a dish.
also offers the longest, best, and probably
Washington, but with
style.
Regular customers get white-
glove treatment; tourists (and obvious food-trend victims)
may
find the staff showily
condescending, but precise nonetheless.
•*
GEORGIA BROWN'S MODERATE
SOUTHERN
QUALITY***
|
|
VALUE**
|
ZONES
I
950
1
5th Street.
NW; (202)
393-4499; www.gbrovy^ns.com
When to go Anytime Entree range $ 6-$23 Payment MC. AMEX. CB. DC. D Service rating ***i2 Friendliness rating ***i/2
Reservations Suggested VISA.
1
Metro McPherson Square or Farragut North Parking Bar Full service Wine selection Very good Dress access Good Customers Business, local, tourist Brunch
$6
Disabled
Business, informal
Sunday, 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Lunch/dinner Monday-Thursday, p.m.; Saturday,
5:30-
1
1
district graciousness,
versation nooks;
An almost
too-sophisticated take on Southern garden
with vinelike wrought iron overhead, sleek
window
specialties
11:30 a.m.-ll:30
11:30 a.m.-IO:30 p.m.; Friday,
:30 p.m.; Sunday, 5:30-9 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere
House
Street; valet (after 6 p.m.),
wood
curves, and con-
tables are prime.
Real
Frogmore stew, with
oysters, scallops, clams, shrimp,
fish,
and
potatoes; fried (or grilled) catfish with black-eyed pea succotash; beautiful white shrimp,
heads
Look
still
on, with spicy sausage over grits; kitchen-sink sausage-chicken-shrimp
Other
recommendations
Sugar-and-spice-rubbed
whipped mashed potatoes and sauteed green beans; garlic
gumbo.
for unusual short-term specials such as squab and Australian yabbies.
oil;
southern fried chicken marinated
chop
pork
grilled
with
maple-
lamb chops marinated
in
buttermilk and served with collard
in
greens and mashed potatoes.
Entertainment and amenities
Live jazz at
Sumnnary and comments
is
high-octane planter's punch);
have found
in
This it's
Sunday brunch.
not low-country cuisine (except perhaps for the
haute country, updated versions of dishes you might
Charleston or Savannah. Presentation
is
distinctive
and portions are generous. Homesick Southerners can indulge and the farm-biscuit-like scones and fairly priced;
still
in
look uptown. The wine
without being showy,
the fried chicken livers list is
ail-American and
barrel-aged bourbons and single-malt Scotches are available as well.
**i/2
GERANIO MODERN AMERICAN
|
MODERATE
|
QUALITY***
|
VALUE***
|
ZONE
I
I
292
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
722 King
Street, Alexandria; (703) 548-0088;
www.geranio.net
Reservations Recommended When to go Anytime Entree range $ 3-$25; market 1
higher
price
rating
Payment
****
Business, casual
VISA,
AMEX
MC,
Parking Street Bar
Full
service
Wine
I
ment
(a
A
House
classic
softened by richly-colored
huge old grain
flaxen that
Good Dress
1
Setting and atmosphere is
Friendliness
selection
Disabled access Not accessible Customers Local
Lunch Monday-Friday, :30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Monday-Saturday, 6-10:30 p.m.; Sunday, 5:30-9:30
brick
****
Service rating
p.m.
Old Town Alexandria townhouse, the exposed
still lifes.
Decor
also includes the
scale), majolica-look flooring,
odd hanging imple-
and plastered walls painted a soft
deepens through the evening to a sage green. Oven-roasted pork
specialties
loin
crispy onions; braised veal cheeks with black
with creamy polenta, wilted spinach and
pepper
spatzle;
osso bucco with saffon
risotto and broccoli rabe; lobster risotto with a half-lobster or lobster over polenta;
seared rare tuna.
Other recommendations creamed spinach
in
"Lasagna" of atlantic salmon, smoked salmon and
a crispy pasta;
;
seared salmon; oven roasted ribeye with sweet
onions, zucchini and pancetta over a baked potato cake.
Sunnmary and comments
Chef-owner Troy Clayton, who trained with Jean-Louis
managed to maintain the neighborhood
Palladin,has
hospitality of this
Old Town beauty
while completely refreshing and upscaling the menu. Dishes are complex
without gratuitous
frills;
this
is
GERARD'S PLACE FRENCH 1
1
VERY EXPENSIVE
5th Street,
|
QUALITY
NW; (202)
••••'/i
|
VALUE
•••
available after 9:30 p.m).
Entree range $24-$52 Payment VISA, MC,AMEX, CB,
selection
**y2 Parking
Good Dress
ZONE
|
3
737-4445
Reservations Recommended (not
Friendliness rating
pairings but
iri^i^irVi
I
9 5
in
a restaurant that remains quiet only by choice.
DC
Street; valet (evenings)
Business, casual
When
to go Monday
Service rating
***
Bar
Wine
Full
service
Disabled access Very good Customers
Business, local, tourist
Lunch Monday-Friday, :30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-9 p.m.; Friday and I
1
Setting and atmosphere
A
Saturday, 5:30-9:30 p.m.
quiedy powerful room, painted simply
in
charcoal and
terra-cotta and studded with a series of stark pencil lithographs.
House son
and red
The menu changes weekly, but look
specialties
dish; perfectly bell
poached lobster topped with a tricolor
pepper
in
for any sweetbread or veniconfetti of
sea" (known to sushi connoisseurs as ankimo or monkfish grilled rare, as rich as real foie gras
of quail
bound by
soft-shell crabs
mango, avocado,
lime-Sauterne sauce (Pangaud's signature dish);"foie gras of the
quail liver;
liver), lightly
but with a fraction of the calories and
boned
rabbit rolled and
wrapped
in
crusted and guilt;
terrine
Japanese seaweed;
not with almonds but sweeter, unexpected hazelnuts.
Other recommendations
Hearty bistro-max dishes such
duck and savoy cabbage; cod cheeks; braised
oxtail;
as pot-au-feu of
cured
breast of duck with shepherd's pie
5
Restaurant Profiles of the
leg.
Or you
can try the tasting menu:
menu
etarian tasting
courses for $85 (without wine). A veg-
also offered.
is
On
Entertainment and amenities
corkage fee on wines but the markup as
Summary and comments cooked and
five
Monday. Gerard's Place waives not only the well.
Gerard Pangaud prepares
classic food, often
incredibly tender, but unobtrusively lightened to
dards and keyed to seasonal specialties. Presentation restaurant
earned two Michelin
in Paris
is
modern
INEXPENSIVE
discreet but stunning. Pangaud's
stars.
irirVi
QUALITY
|
long-
nutritional stan-
GOOD FORTUNE CHINESE
293
••*
**V2
VALUE
|
[
ZONE
I
OB
I
2646 University Boulevard West. Wheaton; (301) 929-8818 Reservations Accepted
MC
PaymentVISA,
When
to go Anytime,
Service rating
***
late night
Entree range $9-$
Friendliness rating
***
Bar
Full
Metro Wheaton Parking Street, free lot Wine selection House Dress Disabled access Good Customers Local, ethnic
ice
1
serv-
Informal,
casual
Open I
I
Monday-Thursday.
a.m.-2 a.m.; Sunday,
I
I
Setting and atmosphere
room
"oriental" dining etc.
But
it's
a.m.-
11:30
a.m.;
1
Friday,
a.m.-2 a.m.; Saturday,
11:30
a.m.-l a.m.
This
not a particularly elaborate room, settling for
is
chairs and a big golden
temple on the banquet stage, a few
parties that dine simultaneously, as well as being a longtime contender for best
tonese kitchen
House
lions,
very spacious, as demonstrated by the number of large family groups and
in
Can-
town.
specialties Unusual seafood dishes featuring squid (especially the one with
sweet-sour mustard greens), sea anemone or sea cucumber, oysters, shrimp, conch, and fish
maw; frog
legs;
duck; dim sum. For less adventurous tastes, there are plenty of noo-
dle dishes, casseroles, and
steamed or
fried fish.
Other recommendations Chinese chopped
chicken, available
Summary and comments items, and able.
more
many
Dim sum
"barbecue," meaning roasted pork, duck, and
into two-inch pieces as appetizers; whole crispy fish; hot pots.
This establishment has a huge
menu
some 200
of
"standards," such as fried dumplings, aren't even listed, although avail-
is
served every day at lunch, although the weekend version
is
a
little
extensive.
•**
GRAPESEED MODERN AMERICAN
|
EXPENSIVE
|
QUALITY
4865-C Cordell Avenue, Bethesda; (30 Reservations Recommended
When
range $20-$29 PaymentVISA, liness rating
•••
)
•••
row Customers Food
VALUE
•••
[
ZONE
I
OA
1
to go Early dinner,
MCAMEX,
DC,
Metro Bethesda Parking
service Wine selection Very
|
986-9592
good Dress
D
Pay
late
on weekends Entree
Service rating lots,
•••l:
street meters, valet
Friend-
Bar
Full
Disabled access Nar-
Business, casual chic
trendies, locals, business
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5-10 Setting and atmosphere
p.m.; Friday
and Saturday, 5-1
I
p.m.; Sunday.
This sleek and unfussy space, with
its
5-9 p.m.
removable front
294
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
onto the sidewalk and
walls
Jeff all
Heineman has designed
is
up
front,
modern
a
menu
white, and the pairings are usually quite smart snag, as they
makes two
bar,
to match his impressive
sometimes do. However, the
list
of wines,
Both "appetizers" and entrees, which can
taste.
and staying power, come
in size
exposed
and the food goes right behind. Chef-owner
tapas
or even
available by the glass, bottle,
vary considerably
leggy distance to the partially
its
points immediately: the wine
—
listed as
accompanying red wine or
unless the country's wine imports hit a
staff
is
make
well prepared to
alternate
recommendations.
House
Ethereal sweetbreads; crisp and delicate cornmeal-fried oysters;
specialties
spice-dusted red snapper; luxuriant braised veal cheeks; turkey breast stuffed with fontina, almonds,
and green olives (and the Sangiovese recommendation
witty and robust pepper-crusted
Other recommendations
filet
mignon with
Wild mushroom
is
just right); a
oxtail ragout.
fricassee;
"Portuguese stew" of clams,
pork, shiitakes, and oranges; snails with hazelnuts; grilled rockfish with wild
mushrooms
and roasted corn; seared scallops with port; roast pork with white balsamic vinegar and grapes; seared duck with rosemary and lavender
Allow some time to get the
Sunnnnary and connments The
list
of dishes
is
so intriguing that
it's
difficult
full
impact of
this
menu.
not to over-order, which won't at
all
bother your palate but may surprise you at check-out, especially as the wines can reach
$
1
a glass.
Still,
this
is
and forward thinking.
a delightful change of pace, a quick private seminar
almost certainly headed for a fourth
It's
in
*•*
GREEN PAPAYA VIETNAMESE
4933 Elm
|
INEXPENSIVE
|
QUALITY
Street, Bethesda; (30
Reservations Recommended
ment
VISA,
MC,
AMEX
Open
)
•• •
|
VALUE
I
|
Z ONE
I
OA
1
When
to go Anytime Entree range $9-$ 6 Pay1
lot
Bar
Full
**
Friendliness rating
service
Disabled access Good Customers
Monday-Friday,
•••
654-8986
Service rating
Bethesda Parking Street, pay ness, casual
new wines
star.
1:30 a.m.-3 p.m.
Wine
selection
***
Fair
Metro
Dress
Busi-
Locals, business lunch
and 5-10 p.m.; Saturday, 12:30-10 p.m.;
Sunday, 5-10 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere the bar, big
bamboo
even a funky
House
fans,
wooden "banana
specialties
Long on looks, with a celadon-tiled water
wood and marble
huge porcelain vases, carved
wall behind
accents, and
tree."
Squid salad with papaya and onion; a first-rate version of the
familiar grilled quail with black
pepper sauce; sausage, water chestnut and dried shrimp
lotus salad with shrimp
and papaya; baby clams with sesame crackers; curried
rolls;
prawns.
Other recommendations
Lemongrass pork,"carmelized" chicken or pork (made
with condensed milk and palm sugar); lemongrass duck; rack of lamb.
Entertainment and ammenitles
Sidewalk seating
Summary and comments
as the staff
much
Nice
is,
it's
curiously unreliable, not so
understaffed as haphazardly interested (and their mealtime seems to overlap the
Restaurant Profiles patrons'). But
if
you're not
in
here to please.
a hurry, there's plenty
**
FROM IPANEMA
GRILL
MODERATE
BRAZILIAN
QUALITY ••'/2
|
295
|
•••
VALUE
ZONE 6
[
I
NW;(202) 986-0757
1858 Columbia Road.
Reservations Recommended on weekends When to go and Saturday; or after
10;
Early, especially
Wednesday
Sunday brunch Entree range $ 3-$24; Three-course 1
Payment VISA, MCAMEX, DC, D Service rating ••'^ Friendliness Metro Woodley Park / Zoo /Adams-Morgan Parking Street Bar Full Wine selection Limited Dress Casual, informal Disabled access Good
brunch, $18
*••
rating Service
Customers
Local, ethnic Brazilian,
Dinner Monday-Thursday, midnight; Sunday, 4-1
Brunch
I
5-1
embassy p.m.;
I
p.m.-midnight;
5
Friday,
Saturday,
noon-
p.m.
Saturday and Sunday,
Setting and atmosphere
noon—4
p.m.
Spare and nouveau;
tainscape mirrors, and darkly tinted
its
rosewood,
Brazilian
windows suggest
slate
a huge celebrity limo
moun-
on cruise
control, and the black artist palm trees look like the backdrop for a fashion shoot.
specialties Feijoada, a black bean, smoked pork, and collard greens stew
House
served only on Wednesday and Saturday for dinner and Sunday crush); shellfish stews
carne de
either cilantro and pepper or palm
in
oil
all
day (hence the
and coconut sauces;
milk-resuscitated beef roast grilled and thinly sliced.
sol, a salt-cured,
Other recommendations
Grilled salmon
white wine, green peppercorn and
in
asparagus sauce; black bean soup served with a touch of parmesan cheese and bacon; spicy
conch soup with vegetables. The three-course Sunday brunch
A young and
Summary and comments when
lively
at
$18
is
popular
atmosphere, especially after 10 p.m.
the bar gets busy and the music turns up. The caipirinha, a mix of fresh lime and
cachaca,
is
particularly popular
and potent. Because of the no-reservations
policy,
and a
certain tendency of the Portuguese-speaking staff to prefer regular customers, the wait
—which
can be annoying
THE GRILLE MODERN AMERICAN I
1
also adds to the caipirinhas' popularity.
(AT THE |
MORRISON HOUSE)
VERY EXPENSIVE
6 South Alfred Street, Old
|
•••
QUALITY
Town Alexandria;
•••
VALUE
|
i^i^Vi |
ZONE IIC
(703) 838-8000;
wvvw.morrisonhouse.com Reservations Recommended
When
$ 2-$
$23-$3
1
1
5;
of wine)
ing
dinner $23-$3
I
(grill),
to go Anytime Entree range Breakfast, 1
(dining room),
Payment VISA, MCAMEX, DC Service
• **i/2
Parking Valet,
street
Bar
Jacket and tie (dining room), informal
Full
(grill)
service
$74 (Chef
rating
Wine
••*•
tasting),
1
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 6-10
a.m., Saturday,
p.m.; Friday
8-
1
(flight
selection Very good Dress
Disabled access
No Customers
business, tourists
Breakfast Monday-Friday, 7-
$38
Friendliness rat-
a.m.
and Saturday, 6-1
I
p.m.
Local,
296
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
A
Setting and atmosphere
lovely,
newer, but Old Town-style
inn,
with a curving
white marble stairway and various small, pretty dining rooms: some more formal with
white
classic
House
There
specialties
much
pretty
and definitely modern but
linen, oil paintings,
some more
stylish china;
like
and old smoking rooms.
libraries
no menu
is
Robert Ulrich comes out to say
as such; chef
what's on his mind and takes diner's serious allergies or prejudices into
account. Given the shifting menu,
hard to specify recommendations, but meat
it's
and Cervena venison are beautifully handled. Duck
dishes, including ostrich, pork,
cured, roasted, glazed, or confit'd
—
Sunnmary and
Under
connnrients
is
a favorite ingredient. different chefs, different names, and different
wandered from
cuisines, this restaurant has
for the last couple of years.
fine to frustrating, but
The menu changes
it's
which
frequently,
been
riding high
good
for those
is
intrigued by market-fresh ingredients, but not allWashingtonians are so off-the-cuff, and
some may
overwhelming.
find this a little
In
addition,
considered and original than others. But there sawy, the chef's menus quite likely a
little
— $74
for three or
some
dishes
no doubt that
seem more if
you're at
MODERATE
|
food-
courses, each including dessert and
—are
as intriguing as
recommended
any.And you can opt
for each course as well.
•*•
HERITAGE INDIA INDIAN
carefully all
more
lagniappe from the kitchen
for a glass of wine or even a tasting flight
is
QUALITY
I
•••
|
VALUE
•••
|
ZONE
5,
6
NW; (202) 331-1414; 2400 Wisconsin Avenue, NW; (202) 333-3 20 1337 Connecticut Avenue,
1
When
Reservations Recommended
ment VISA, MCAMEX, DC
to go Anytime Entree range $9-$24 Pay-
Service rating
**
Friendliness rating
***
(Connecticut Avenue) Dupont Circle or Faeragut North Parking Street, pay Full
Service
Wine
Bethesda only
Brunch
selection
Customers
Good Dress
Monday-Friday,
Dinner
I
1
at
noon—4
p.m.
:30 a.m.-2 p.m.
Monday-Saturday, 5:30-10
Bistro,
Disabled access Good
Business, locals, ethnic
Saturday and Sunday,
Lunch
Business, casual
Metro Bar
lot
p.m.; Tasting
Room, Tuesday-Saturday,
:30-IO p.m.
Setting and atmosphere walls,
The Glover Park
site
is
more
traditional, with
its
saffron
romantic sepia-toned photos and Raj-era lithographs and fabric upholstery. The
newer Dupont
Circle branch
is
confidently new-generation-centric; the bar stretches
nearly the length of the room.
House
specialties Heat freaks look to the lamb vindaloo, a real firestarter; moder-
ately spicy choices include fish
too spicy dish of
sliced
Other recomnnendatlons and onions
in
dried
and
its
in
in
A
any of a half-dozen tandoori dishes; a tangy but not
green pepper and tomatoes. soothing dish of baby eggplant
mango powder; vegetable
Summary and comments speak,
filets,
grouper
fritters;
This was one of the
first
new-age Indian kitchens, so to
the Washington area, ranging into less familiar and
success has inspired a
upscale service.
(It
number
sesame sauce; okra
in
assorted breads.
more
subtle regional fare,
of other kitchens to invest
has a third "relative," for those staying
in
in
complexity and
Bethesda: Passage to India,
B
Restaurant Profiles once
called Heritage India
and
still,
since the chef
is
the same, with a very similar menu.)
***
INDIQUE INDIAN
297
INEXPENSIVE
QUALITY ••*'
|
':
VALUE***
|
ZONE 7
|
I
NW; (202)
3512-14 Connecticut Avenue,
244-6600
Reservations Recommended When to go
ment VISA, MC.AMEX
Service rating
Cleveland Park Parking Street, pay lot Business casual Disabled access
Lunch
Every
day,
Early dinner
***
Bar
Full
Entree range $9-$ 8 Pay1
Friendliness rating
****
service Wine selection
Good Customers
Metro Good Dress
Locals, moviegoers, ethnics
noon-3 p.m.
Dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-10:30
A
Setting and atmosphere
p.m.; Friday
and Saturday, 5:30-1
I
p.m.
lovely indoor "courtyard" with a
second story mezza-
nine, faux-aged murals, walls of tandoori-rub bronze, lattice-cut
marble dividers and
sky-like inserts overhead.
House
Steamed mussells
specialties
coconut broth, caramelized eggplant ban-
in
gun bharta, spiced lamb shank, calamari Ullarthiyathi sauce, buttery chicken tikka makhani; shrimp
and baked
in
a
banana
seed
a ginger-chile-mustard
in
wrapped with
tomato and spices
ginger,
leaf.
Other recommendations
Shrimp Baruval with spicy onions and tomatoes, shrimp
and scallop masala, and the appam stews, with
sauce.A good variety of breads, stuffed or
Summary and comments
slightly
sour pancakes
in
sambal coconut
plain.
This upscale and wide-ranging restaurant, with
ning presentations and carefully attended side dishes,
is
the jewel
in
the
its
Bombay
stun-
Bistro
business crown, and one of a happily expanding
number
Washington that look beyond the tandoori
possible, get in before 8 p.m., because
it's
line.
If
of serious Indian kitchens
in
very popular with the post-movie crowd.
*****
THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON MODERN AMERICAN ZONE
I
|
VERY EXPENSIVE
|
QUALITY*****
|
VALUE*****
|
I
Middle and Main Streets, Washington,VA; (540) 675-3800
Reservations Required
When
to go Anytime Entree range Prix
Sunday-Thursday; $128, Friday; $158, Saturday
***'/2
Wine
Friendliness
**V2
rating
Parking
VISA,
Free
lot
MC
fixe:
$
I
1
8,
Service rating
Bar
Full
service
selection Wine Speaotor Award Dress Dressy, informal Disabled access
Customers
Fair
Local, tourist
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 6-9:30 9:30 p.m.; Sunday, seatings at ing
Payment
p.m.; Friday
4, 4:30, 7, 7:30, 8,
and Saturday, seatings at 5:30,
6. 9,
and
and 8:30 p.m.;Tuesday, closed except dur-
May and October.
Setting and atmosphere an enclosed garden (with
An
elegantly appointed but unfussy frame building with
many romantic
seatings
on the
patio)
and
rich,
painted walls, velvet upholstery, and the clean glint of real crystal and silver
handin
all
298
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
directions.
House
The menu changes
specialties
seafood and wild
mushroom
reminds you why
that's
continually, but look for dishes
such a classic entree; home-smoked trout; sweetbreads with
whole baby artichokes; baby lamb morsels with lamb sausage the dinner
is
such as
or lamb carpaccio; tenderloin of beef that
risotto; veal
And
alongside.
although
purportedly four courses, here, as at several other top-flight restaurants,
there are apt to be extras along the way.
Other recommendations
Soft-shell crabs
however offered
simple); a signature appetizer of black-eyed peas and Smithfield
same ham,
gras; that
mushroom
bello
sliced thin as prosciutto,
pretending to be a
Summary and comments and selected by
world tion.
—the
Travel
and
all
and a
name
a
is
is
the
cream with
his
it's
been profiled
most popular
make magic with
to
overfussy; local produce
Everyone remembers
—
capital's
over the country. O'Connell's strength is
is
in
in
or her
first
bitter chocolate sauce
foie
porto-
The NewYorker
and eighth
in
gourmet (and gourmand)
a sense of balance: Dishes are never
emphasized (which guarantees freshness); is
sadly rare.
— homemade white chocolate
passion here
—and
for
the
distant dining destina-
allowed to speak for themselves, which
lot of fine ingredients are
figs;
mignon.
culinary legend
Inn at Little Washington
overwhelmed or
fresh local
Leisure as the second-finest hotel in the U.S.
Chef Patrick O'Connell
circles
A
filet
wrapped around
(usually respectfully
ham topped with
some Washingtonians, driving down
other Washington becomes an addiction, a compulsion.
It's
ice
to the
the single biggest reason
boom in yuppie commuting to the hills. Incidentally, of Cam, it was O'Connell who bought up the wine cellar when Le Pavilion went
(besides horses, perhaps) for the
for fans
bankrupt, and one can almost not regret
it.
***
jALEO NUEVO LATINO
MODERATE
|
QUALITY***
|
|
VALUE***
|
ZONE
3,
I
OA,
I
IC
480 Seventh Street, NW; (202) 628-7949; 7255 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda; (301)9! 3-0003; 2250-A Crystal Drive, Arlington; (703) 413-8181
When
Reservations 5-6:30 p.m only
to go Early evening Entree range $IO-$25
Payment VISA, MCAMEX, DC, D Service rating *** Friendliness rating *** Metro (downtown) Archives/Navy Memorial; (Bethesda) Bethesda; (Arlington) Crystal City
Parking
selection
Street; valet after 5
Good Dress
service
Wine
Disabled access Good Customers
Local,
p.m except on Sunday, $8 Bar
Business, casual
Full
tourist
Brunch
Sunday,
I
1:30 a.m.-3 p.m.
Lunch/dinner Sunday I
1:30 a.m.-
1
Setting and atmosphere with
bits
Monday,
and
1:30 p.m.; Friday
and Saturday,
A
11:30 I
a.m.- 10
p.m.;
Tuesday-Thursday,
1:30 a.m.-midnight.
combination tapas
bar, chic
of wrought iron, a lush suedelike gray decor, and
competition, and piazza,
(in
the original
branch) a partial copy of the John Singer Sargent painting from which
House
specialties
wash down
Tapas
—
it
bite-sized appetizers (four to a plate)
downtown
takes
its
name.
meant to help
glasses of sangria and sherry and pass hours of conversation.
Among
the
best regulars: tuna carpaccio; grilled quail; spinach with apples, pine nuts, and raisins;
salmon with artichokes; eggplant
flan
with roasted peppers; serrano
ham and tomatoes
1
Restaurant Profiles on focaccia;and miniature lamb chops. Chef Jose Ramon Andre's ticularly seasonal rarities, frequently of
Other recommendations rooms
shrimp or
shellfish,
Sausage with white beans;
menu around them
an entire
bets.
portobello mush-
grilled
Jaleo has taken tapas, a late-blooming bar fad, and built
—there
many
are five times as
tapas as
you're with three or four people, you can just about taste everything
may want
time, you
down
does
a heavy business, too, especially pre-
so smoothly, that you can overstuff yourself without realizing
want to celeb-spot, go
really
whole entrees.
in sight. (In fact,
and post-theater.
It's
The bar
it.)
already so trendy that
913-0003)
is
now open
in
Maryland.
**
JEAN-MICHEL MODERATE
QUALITY
|
I
1
if
hour; they're ducking the crowds. Jaleo's
off rush
Woodmont Avenue; (301)
Bethesda location (7271
FRENCH
If
the
to go extra slow:The plates look so small, and the palo cortada
goes
you
good
(getting to be a local staple); lightly fried calamari; paella.
Summary and comments
first
and par-
daily specials
are extremely
299
••V2
|
••V2
VALUE
ZONE OA I
|
0223 Old Georgetown Road (Wildwood Shopping Center), Bethesda;
(301)564-4910 Reservations Recommended
ment
VISA,
Parking Free access
Fair
DC
MC, AMEX, Bar
lot
service
Full
Customers
Lunch Monday-Friday,
When
Wine
is
and subtly divided by
House
Informal
•**
Disabled
This
5-8 p.m.
small,
little
and limited by
room:
light,
its
position
in
decorated with
a strip
restraint,
lower the volume and make up for the lack of a foyer
glass to
specialties
including roasted
p.m.; Sunday,
Though rather
nevertheless a pretty
nearly equal the menu;
Friendliness rating
Good Dress
Locals, business people
Dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30-9:30
mall, this
•***
selection
1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
I
Setting and atmosphere shopping
to go Any time Entree range $l4-$28 Pay-
Service rating
go by the
really a place to
is
one
night there
were
daily specials,
eight appetizers and as
which often
many
entrees,
pepper and fennel soup; rockfish with shrimp and baby lobster;
veal
kidneys; and terrine of duck foie gras. Otherwise, look for the likes of ravioli with wild
mushrooms or
spinach and duck sauce; bouillabaisse; classic country-French versions of
veal scaloppine, lamb,
and venison.
Other recommendations mussels,
calf's liver, soft-shell
Grilled rockfish or grilled tuna with black olive sauce, crabs,
Summary and comments once considered relaxed,
a
good "continental French" restaurant downtown, but somehow
comfy version with
attitudes
and lobster flamed with whiskey.
Jean-Michel was the partner and host of what was
—better There
is
its
simplified dishes
little
seems to
that's unfamiliar here,
but
suit
him
—
as well as
that's part of
this
modern
what makes
it
easy to enjoy.
JOHNNY'S HALF SHELL SEAFOOD
INEXPENSIVE
|
QUALITY
iri^Vi
•• •'/2
|
VALUE
•••
|
ZONE 6
I
2002 P
Street,
NW; (202)
296-202
Reservations Not accepted
Payment
VISA,
MC,
AMEX
When
to go Pre- or post-rush Entree range $8-$24
Service rating
•*•
Friendliness rating
****
300
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
Metro Dupont Dress
Parking
Circle
Business, casual
Lunch
I
1
Street, pay lots
:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; light fare served
Dinner 5-10:30
p.m.;
Bar
service Wine selection
Full
Disabled access Not accessible Customers
open
until
Setting and atmosphere
I
I
p.m.
Good
Locals, business
from 3-5 p.m.
on Friday and Saturday
Intentionally low-key,
Orleans-style oyster bars and Gulf Coast
it
hearkens back to the Nev/
houses: Naugahyde, a marble-topped
fish
pull-up bar, and a no-reservations policy.
House stew,
New
The
specialties
one dark and
Orleans seafood
and the other
dirty
light
gumbo and
the Chesapeake seafood
and sunny; an equally lighthearted take on
Manhattan-style clam chowder; soft-shell crabs with corn pudding; fried oyster po' boys
New
Orleans); barbequed shrimp and
Other recommendations
Barbecued shrimp on cheese
(on bread flown
in
more
version than the littleneck clams;
from
genteel,
grits.
grits, a spicier "dirtier"
creamy low-country dishes elsewhere
town; roasted
in
decadent crab imperial.
Summary and comments
Executive chef
Ann Cashion and co-owner John
Fulchino are old friends to Washington foodies (see the profile of Cashion's Eat Place, above). This intentionally low-key seafood shack, dropped
Dupont a rarity
Circle,
is
a mini-getaway to the sort of old
the actual, tourist-crazy Big Easy: fried oyster,
in
"comfort food" that Cashion
turier
New
is
"only" three stars means modesty of
frigid beer,
famous for This
menu and
down
in
the middle of
Orleans bar that
is
a perfect
example of when
delightful execution.
***i/2
KAZ SUSHI BISTRO MODERATE
JAPANESE
****
QUALITY
|
I
1915
Street.
I
NW; (202)
VISA,
Metro
DC
MC, AMEX,
VALUE
selection
Lunch
When
Fair,
several sakes
I
Dress
Business, casual
Friendliness rating
***
Bar Beer and wine Wine
Disabled access
No Cus-
a smallish sushi bar
specialties
p.m.
A smart and in
the
rear,
sawy-funny room, with a mini-fountain wall
and abstract but oddly maguro-ish wallpaper.
Sake-poached scallops; lobster
spicy broiled green mussels; foie gras infused with
salad; glazed grilled
baby octopus;
plum wine; "Japanese-style duck con-
miso; salmon belly with fennel and yogurt sauce; the signature sea trout
"napoleon" of chopped layered
***
1:30 a.m.-2 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere
in
ZONE 4
trendies, business
Monday-Friday,
in front,
|
to go Anytime Entree range $l2-$20 Pay-
Service rating
Dinner Monday-Saturday, 6-10
fit"
***
Farragut West or Farragut North Parking Pay lots
tomers Food
House
|
530-5500
Reservations Recommended
ment
becoming
is
and the sort of cou-
on
crispy
fish
tossed with peanuts, cilantro, and soy-ginger dressing and
wontons.
Other recommendations
Nontraditional sushi such as tuna with foie gras or with
kalamata pesto; lobster with wasabi mayo; asparagus and roasted red pepper tobello and sun-dried
tomato
Sumnnary and comments
roll;
por-
roll.
Chef-owner Kaz Okochi earned many of
working at Sushi-Ko, where he originated many of what he
his fans
while
calls his "original small dishes."
Restaurant Profiles He
is
West, but not
also fearless about mixing East and
tuna and foie gras.The quality of the can get good sushi
a
in
number
more
the usual fusion forms,
in
traditional sushi
of places, as listed
Note the number
inventions for a spin.
in
is
first-rate,
i.e..
the
of course. But you
the front of this chapter. So take Kaz's
of intriguing vegetarian options as
v^^ell.
***
KINKEAD'S SEAFOOD
301
EXPENSIVE
•••
QUALITY
|
VALUE ••^/i
[
ZONE 4
|
I
2000 Pennsylvania Avenue,
NW; (202)
296-7700
Reservations Recommended (required
DC, D Service rating
Brunch
at dinner, pay lots,
Business, informal
Sunday,
I
upstairs)
When
to go
**• Friendliness rating *** Metro Foggy Bottom or Far-
ragutWest Parking Valet
Good Dress
room
for the dining
Entree range $20-$40 Payment VISA. MC, AMEX.
brunch
Anytime, Sunday
meters Bar
Full
Wine
service
selection
Disabled access Good Custonners Business,
local
1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Lunch Monday-Friday, 1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-10 p.m.; Friday and I
Setting and atmosphere
Pleasantly
Saturday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.
upstairs, as
is
commonplace these
days;
over two floors and
restrained, ranging
divided into a series of elevated or glass-enclosed areas. it's
a
Robert Kinkead on the consumer side of the
little
less
The
kitchen staff
common
visible
is
to see chef-ov^^ner
glass wall, barking at his
cooks
head-
via
set like a football coach talking to the booth.
House
specialties
(appetizer); roast
A
melting chargrilled squid over polenta with tomato confit
cod with crab imperial; seared sea scallops with a fennel tarte
tatin;
seared tuna with portobellos and flageolets; lobster specials; roast saddle of rabbit with crispy sweetbreads and fava bean-chanterelle ragout; Brazilian-style
pork with black
beans; walnut-encrusted snapper
Other recommendations
Ipswich-style fried soft-shell clams; crab and lobster
cakes (appetizers); sauteed cod cheeks;
Sicilian
swordfish with fennel, olives, currants,
and arugula.
Entertainment and amenities
Summary and comments
Live jazz weeknights;
This
is
nonsmoking raw
a seafood restaurant for those
of fish-or rather, "fishy flavors." Kinkead's style
is
bar.
still
a
little
leavy
simple and straightforward but not
shrinking; his sauces are balanced but assured, designed to highlight the food, not the frills.
Any
available
seafood can be ordered broiled or
almost an oxymoron. And Kinkead, whose rant, has installed a
little
grilled,
but "simply grilled" here
fame came from
his
salads.
It's
been a
little
a
raw bar
VERY EXPEN SIVE
|
QUALITY
•••l^
—
plus
inconsistent recently, however.
***
UAUBERGE CHEZ FRANCOIS FRENCH
is
Nantucket restau-
home-away-from-home downstairs by way of
chowder, soups, and
first-rate
first
|
VALUE
•^•'^
|
ZONE
MA
I
332 Springvale Road. Great
Falls;
Reservations Required 4 weeks
(703) 759-3800 in
advance
When
to go Summer evenings
weather for the terrace Entree range $40-$50
DC, D Service rating
••••
Friendliness rating
•••*
in
good
MC, AMEX, Parking Free lot Bar
Payment
VISA,
302
service
Full
men
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
Wine
selection Very good Dress Dressy, business (jacket required for
Customers
Disabled access Very good
at night)
Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 5:30-9:30 p.m. or 9-9:30 p.m.; Sunday,
1
Locals
and Saturday, seatings at 5:30-6:30
p.m.; Friday
:30-8 p.m.
One
Setting and atmosphere
most beloved and romantic
of the
dining sites
in
the area, a real country inn with exposed beams, a mix of views of Alsace (home of paterfamilias/executive chef Jacques Haeringer),only-a-family-could-love drawings, and a travel-brochure veranda.
mecca
known
as an
semi-roman
a clef
so widely
It's
that Regrets Only, Sally Quinn's
engagement and anniversary about
included a rather improbable but dramatic tryst
circles,
with a stick
House
shift,
no
in
journalistic
and
the parking lot
political
an
(in
specialties
Classics such as rack of lamb ($50 for one,
$98 for two),
Chateaubriand for two ($98), and duck foie gras either sauteed with apples or the true choucroute royal garni, with Alsatian sauerkraut, sausages, pheasant, and quail;
kidneys
game
"plain";
smoked pork, duck,
season, such as medallions of venison and roast duck; veal
in
a rich, mustardy sauce; sweetbreads with wild
in
MG
less).
mushrooms
in
roasted boneless duck breast paired with the stuffed leg and fruit-dotted fricassee with shrimp, scallops, lobster, rockfish, and
salmon
Other recommendations
game
Various seafood and
puff pastry; rice;
seafood
in Riesling.
pates; red snapper braised
in
beer; boneless rabbit stuffed with leeks and fennel; soft-shell crabs with extra crabmeat stuffed into the body; big scallops
in
a bright (but not overwhelming)
tomato and
bell
pepper sauce.
Summary and comments
What
look
like
entrees on the
menu
— not to
dinners, and with salads, fancy appetizers, and dessert
cheese and a
bit
notice rule
still
worth
call in
it
to
vations for the
—
of sorbet
applies,
this
is
are really whole
mention bread and
a lot of food. Although the two-to-four weeks'
competition has increased, along with cancellations:
the late afternoon, especially during the week. You can't
outdoor terrace,
make sure
incidentally; just call to
it's
may be
It
make
reser-
open (about May
through September) and then show up.
LACHAUMIERE FRENCH
MODERATE
|
I
28
1
3
M
Street,
irirVi
QUALITY
NW; (202)
•••
[
VALUE
•••
|
ZONES
338- 784 1
When to go Anytime Entree range $ 5-$50 PayDC Service rating ••* Friendliness rating ***
Reservations Recommended
ment VISA, MCAMEX,
CB,
Parking Two-hour parking selection
Good Dress
at
1
Four Seasons Hotel (dinner) Bar
Business, informal
Full
service
Wine
Disabled access Good Customers
Local, embassy, business
Lunch
Monday-Friday,
I
1:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m.
Dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30Setting and atmosphere linary competition, the
standing fireplace
thanks to the
new
in
1
0:30 p.m.; Sunday, closed
After 25 years
cooking
in this
in
the often tumultuous
big-beamed, in-town country
Georgetown inn,
with
its
cul-
free-
the center and old iron tools on the wall, has a revived freshness,
kitchen
around: Bistro fare of
broom
of chef Patrick Orange. And
owner Gerard
Pain's sort
is
what goes around comes
suddenly booming around him.
Restaurant Profiles
House
Oysters; seasonal specials of rabbit, choucroute, or venison (as
specialties
uptown
303
as medallions with chestnut
puree or as down-home as pot
crepes or jumbo shad roe; bouillabaisse; traditional tripe a
mode
la
in
pie);
seafood
Calvados. Here,
more
as at the Bistro Fran(;ais across the street (see listing), the daily specials are even
amazing; terrine of duck foie gras or fresh foie gras with cassis; ostrich loin wrapped
in
bacon; bison osso buco; seared sea bass with portobello-turnip risotto.
Other recommendations
Calf's
liver
or brains; sweetbreads with turnips and
Jerusalem artichokes; medallions of ostrich with blood orange sauce; quenelles of pike in lobster.
Summary and comments Wednesday its
it's
Part of La Chaumiere's
couscous, and Thursday, cassoulet. This
regulars are treated like family.Actually/'regulars"
hearkens back to the time mall,
The
LA
and a
lot of
fireplace
is
its
charm
a key
is
is
its
feel as
weekly
family-style food,
word
Chaumiere
than shopping
they graduated into adult dinner-dating here.
if
area's hottest (sorry) soulful-gazing areas.
COLUNE
irirVi
MODERATE
FRENCH
QUALITY
|
I
400 North Capitol
Street,
•••
When
ment
DC
**** Wine
MC, AMEX, CB,
VALUE
|
NW; (202)
Reservations Recommended VISA,
treats:
and most of
here; La
when Georgetown was more neighborhood
customers
one of the
is
•••
*
ZONE 2
|
737-0400 to go Anytime Entree range $ 5-$24 Pay1
•**•
Service rating
Friendliness rating
Metro Union Station Parking Garage, validation after 5 p.m. Bar Full service Good Dress Casual, elegant Disabled access Good Customers
selection
Business, local, tourist
Breakfast Monday-Friday, 7-10 a.m.
Lunch
Monday-Friday,
I
1
:30 a.m.-3 p.m.
Dinner Monday-Saturday, 6-10 Setting
atmosphere
and
undergone a long-needed
p.m.; closed
This
facelift
(and
Sunday and holidays
stubborn
menu
has
bistro-within-an-office-building
brush-up); the main dining
room
is
large,
two-tiered, with nostalgic paintings, a mix of booths and tables, and French countrykitchen cupboards.A its
House
specialties
look for foie gras and wild
new carryout annex
new management/kitchen
tude of
The menu tends to
homemade
mushrooms and baby
tournedos.
On
suggests the
lively atti-
feature "specials" rather than set pieces, but
pate; lobster
and
shellfish fricassee;
sweetbreads with
artichokes; tripe; cool lobster salad; stuffed quail; venison
the newer side, watch for shrimp
flavored calamari salad;
more competitive and
team.
smoked
ravioli
in
lemongrass broth; Thai-
trout.
Other recommendations Roasted monkfish; poached cod; appetizers duck breast, wild mushroom ravioli, or spicy lamb-stuffed pastries.
Summary and comments
of
smoked
La Colline manages to serve old-homey French food
such quantity (and with such hospitable style) that you'd expect the quality to but
somehow
it
keeps the prices
never does. The quantity of business of fairly steady,
though they've crept up
a
fall
in
off,
this Senate-side favorite also
little.
Presentation
is
simple and
untrendy, but exact: salmon or swordfish steaks on beds of vermouth-flavored sauce,
sweetbreads bull's-eyed over concentric
circles of bordelaise
and herb wine deglaze.
304
Game still
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
dishes and rowdy, hearty stews, along with the organ meats
most Americans are
only discovering, are always good bets.
LA
COTE D'OR CAFE
FRENCH (PROVENCAL)
i^i^Vi
MODERATE
|
QUALITY ***i/2
|
VALUE **i/2
|
ZONE
|
MB
6876 Lee Highway, Arlington; (703) 538-3033 Reservations Recommended
ment
VISA,
Metro
East Falls
Dress
When
DC
MC, AMEX,
Church Parking
Business, informal
to go Anytime Entree range $2Q-$30 PayFriendliness rating **i/2
***
Service rating Street, lot
Bar
service Wine selection
Full
Disabled access Good Customers
Lunch Monday-Saturday,
I
1
:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; Sunday,
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10
p.m.; Friday
I
Good
Local, business
a.m.-3 p.m.
I
and Saturday, 5:30-1
I
p.m.; Sunday,
5:30-9 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere
throw from
stone's
Although seeming rather out of place at
and associated with a motel
1-66
—
this
is
French townhouse with armchairs, attractive but not overly formal
and
lots of
flowers and windows.
The
brightly
first
—
glance
a very pretty, three-room silver
and porcelain,
decorated addition, called Le Salon
Basque, has added a needed sense of cheer to what was sometimes a rather stuffy
atmosphere.
House Dover filet
Grilled loin with green peppercorn sauce; red snapper
specialties
on sauteed
sole; swordfish
leeks; calf's liver; rack of
filet;
lamb with red wine sauce;
of salmon with basil and cream sauce.
Other recommendations
From the
cafe
menu: steak
frites;
spicy
merguez sausages;
steak tartare; lamb shank; croque monsieur and crepes; and very garlicky escargots.
Summary and comments
This
more formal room and another
(and the bar)
wiches, crepes, and steak
LA
is
frites, called
another "Siamese twin" establishment, with one like a
casual bistro with the lighter sand-
Cafe des Celestines.
MICHE
i^i^Vi
MODERATE
FRENCH I
|
QUALITY***
|
VALUE **i/2
|
ZONE OA I
7905 Norfolk Avenue, Bethesda; (30 1) 986-0707 Reservations Recommended
ment
VISA,
MC, AMEX,
DC
When
to go Anytime Entree range $ 8-$27 Pay-
Service rating
1
***
Metro Bethesda Parking Valet, street meters Bar Dress
Disabled access Not
Business, informal
Brunch
Sunday,
I
Full
Friendliness rating ***i/2 service
accessible
Wine
selection
Customers
Good
Local, business
1:30 a.m.-2 p.m.
Lunch Tuesday-Friday, 1:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner Monday-Saturday, 6-9:45 p.m.; Sunday, 6-8 p.m Setting and atmosphere The tone is somewhere between I
an old French inn and
an upscale bistro, with white lace curtains, gleaming wood, flowers, and
laundered
House
specialties
frog's legs;
soft, well-
linens.
Salmon with lobster-champagne sauce;
duck confit or
grilled
veal chop; nicely viscous
duck or almost any duck presentation.
.
Restaurant Profiles
Summary and comments boom
restaurant
shake off
likes
1
La Miche was a magnet
990s. and
in
Bethesda long before the
in
new chef-owner Jason Tepper knows
the old standbys; he's just shaking
all
"provincial"
of the
them
305
out.
The
better than to
dishes are classically
the best, as-you-like-it fashion, but not weighty or cloying.
Look
for the
of duck liver and foie gras, cassoulet, snails, medallions of venison, etc., depending
on the season.
MANNEQUIN PIS
L£
MODERATE
BELG IAN
iririrVi
•••
QUALITY
|
|
VALUE
••••
ZONE IOC
|
I
1
8064 Georgia Avenue, OIney; (30
Reservations Recommended
570-4800
) 1
When
to go Early dinner or
Entree range $l5-$25 Payment VISA. MC, AMEX, Friendliness rating
Dress Suburban
*••
Parking Free
lot
Bar
after 9 p.m.
D
service
Full
on weekends
Service rating ••Vi
Wine
selection
Fair
Disabled access Good Customers Food trend
casual, business
saveurs. local
Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 5-9:30
and Saturday, 5-10:30 p.m.; Sunday.
p.m.; Friday
5-9 p.m.
Named
Setting and atmosphere
for the famously rude statue
relieving himself into the fountain), this
boy
in
little
bistro,
and coquette's salon, with tacked-up plywood, sponged egg-yolk
is
one
Brussels (the
a combination 1950s rec
of the
walls,
room,
heavy red
drapes, and stunning abstract paintings by chef Bernard Dehaene's mother.And one other
thing:Whenever the
House
specialties
cheese broth); ads;
light in
room
the men's
Mussels,
done
is
turned on, the statue
ways
a half-dozen
classic Belgian fries (called
"pommes
wood-roasted sea bass with capers, balsamic
oysters au gratin pickled
in
champagne;
are especially intriguing;
vinegar,
leeks. Daily specials
buco with caramelized onions and
beer.
Side dishes of braised endive and mini-saucepans of
Brussels sprouts; rich Belgian beers; fish of the day;
Summary and comments or
Like
its
decor, and
rump steak with
its
a choice of sauces.
unapologetically economical loca-
an unprepossessing strip mall, Le Mannequin Pis can be delightfully iconoclastic
bafflingly
headstrong, especially
dining room. Occasional lapses
in
when
the very short
kitchen
staff
gets
overwhelmed by
temper are not unknown, but
it's
with the restaurant's personality. Less entertaining are the infrequent lapses
performance, but with time, they're becoming rare. just
keep up
LE
sal-
and braised Belgian endive;
yabbies (Australia craw^sh) spread with cognac-anchovy
split
Other recommendations
in
and goat
potato straws); endive
chop with escargot; roast pork with salty-sour
veal
butter; foie gras; Flemishized osso
tion
(try the beer, leeks,
pailles,"
and spinach; salmon medallions with red cabbage and
figs
"tinkles."
its
end on the beer
list
.
Now
if
full
in
kitchen
Montgomery County would
.
***i/2
PARADOU
FRENCH
a
of a piece
VERY EXPENSIVE
|
QUALITY
••••
|
VALUE
•••
|
ZONE
3
I
678 Indiana Avenue.
NW; (202)
347-6780
Reservations Strongly recommended
When
to go Lunch,
after rush dinner
range Two courses $58, three-course dinner $75. seven-course
tasting $100, a
Entree la
carte
306
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
menu
in
Payment VISA, MCAMEX, DC, CB Service rating Metro Navy Memorial/Archives/Penn Quarter
the lounge only, $24-$27
***V2
Friendliness rating irirVi
or Judiciary Square Parking Street, pay selection Very good Dress Business,
Customers Lunch
lot,
valet at dinner
Bar
Full
service
Wine
Disabled access Lounge only
office casual
Business, expense account T&E, foodies
Monday-Friday,
I
1:45 a.m.-2:l5 p.m.
Dinner Monday-Thursday,
6 p.m.- 0:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 p.m.-! 1:30 1
p.m.
Setting and atmosphere
This sleek and cool tv/o-level site has had several tenants,
looks remain relatively similar to
but
its
and
airy, all
its
opening as part of the Bice
cream paint and blond wood and white
linen (like a
ence room) livened by overhead fiber-optic "stars" and
ments.The private dining room
House
is
an old-fashioned
An almost
specialties
gem
line:
wide open
mega-corporate confer-
big dramatic, floral arrange-
with a huge crystal chandelier.
transparent lobster purse with ginger-carrot
jus;
truffle-studded boudin blanc on pureed fennel; oysters with caviar and sea urchin; foie gras (in
chop with chanterelles and baby
a variety of sauces); veal
lamb chop with tomato confit and
Other recommendations ster-truffle risotto;
Dover
sold with scallop-stuffed zucchini blossoms; lob-
squab with cumin and dates;
Entertainment and amenities mousse
classic coquiles St. Jacques.
Ornate amuse bouches such
wine
martinis, etc.); the
chef Yannick
Cam
This
is
and seafood
not a place to cut corners, even on a bar
marked up and bar appetizers
heavily
list is
has never hesitated to go whole hog. His style
and self-consciously sophisticated. But an occasional otherwise ethereal sea urchin in
as caviar
a blown-out egg shell.
in
Summary and comments
steak
turnips; mini-bouillabaisse;
olives with potato ravioli.
the presumably less
flan,
is
start at $8.
and
—
bar
—
at those prices keeps
of nouvelle cuisine
nental cream-sauce town; he's since been
in
in
what was then
it
many
Cam
is
was
—and
a sen-
a pretty heavy contiBrazilian,
the second big
that's
notoriously restless, and might well head off again before hes celebrates
anniversaries.
Still,
there's
no denying; when
he's
good,
he's very,
very good.
MAESTRO MODERN
an
below dependable
and out of a series of Provencal,
Catalonian-Spanish and French-country inn establishments caveat.
grit in
greasy foie gras under seasoned lamb or pedestrian
influential
really a revelation
($9
concentrated, intense,
flightiness in the kitchen
four- (or five-) star standing as yet. His first Washington restaurant, Le Pavilion, sation,
bill
But then,
ITALIAN
i^i^i^irVi |
VERY EXPENSIVE
QUALITY
|
••••
|
VALUE
•••
|
ZONE
MA
Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 700 Tysons Boulevard.Tysons Corner; (703) 917-5498
Reservations Highly recommended
$94-$ 25 Payment VISA, 1
ness rating
****
Award Dress
Full
service
Wine
selection Wine Spectator
Disabled access Very good Customers Local
special occasions, hotel patrons
Breakfast Monday-Friday, 6:30-1
Brunch
to go Anytime Entree range Prix fixe DC, D Service rating ****i/2 Friendli-
Parking Valet Bar
Business, dressy
expense accounters,
When
MCAMEX,
I
a.m.
Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Restaurant Profiles Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 6-9 Setting and atmosphere brocade upholstery, heavy pieces
—but
p.m.; Friday.
This silver,
6-9:30 p.m.; Saturday, 5:30-10 p.m.
room
a classic luxury hotel dining
is
huge
307
flov/ers.
and charming
—white
linen,
animal center-
silver
an almost equally huge open kitchen, where prodigal chef FabioTra-
v^ith
bocchi and a bustling supporting cast prepare (and polish) the ornate presentations and
send them out with old-fashioned European
House
specialties
half-lobster
flourish.
Seared foie gras with blood orange sorbet; lobster
ravioli
with
sweatbreads Milanese; osso bucco-stuffed agnolotti; gratin of sea
tails;
urchin; a re-conception of
celeriac filled with
tournedos Rossini as
foie gras-stuffed filet
bone marrow mousse; pan-fried
scallops
wrapped
and "bones" of in
focaccia with
chanterelles and salsa verde; monkfish liver-stuffed ravioli with periwinkles; wild turbot
baked over fragrant saltwater hay; Dungeness crab and chanterelle
ravioli; scallops in
the shell with Jerusalem artichoke julienne; grilled baby lobster with black
A dry-aged
Other recomnnendations
veal
chop
truffles.
Amarone; roast squab with
in
figs;
any sea urchin presentation.
Summary and comments genius
—and
a playful
Chef Fabio Trabocchi,
—and
one
appreciative customers once
There are
more
ous
sizes,
tle erratic is
would be
a while, this
traditional Italian, very mod-Italian,
a
—
most of the
when
paradoxically,
—
it's
time,
never
it's
the
room
is
less busy,
than elaborate, and
less
is
a
a five-star restaurant for sure. little
much
of a muchness, but
and three tasting menus of
ranging up to about $85 without wines. While the cooking
less inspired
lier
just hitting his stride at 30,
the kitchen didn't seem to shrug off less obviously
menus (which are perhaps
actually several
impressive):
in
if
truly stunning. And,
is
vari-
sometimes a
lit-
which perhaps suggests the chef
when
it's
good, which admittedly
Maestro has another master
at hand:
is
somme-
Vincent Feraud,the dean of Washington wine stewards.
MAKOTO
iriri^Vi
VERY EXPENSIVE
JAPANESE
QUALITY •••'/2
|
|
VALUE •••'/2
ZONE 7
|
I
4822 MacArthur Boulevard,
NW; (202)
Reservations Recommended
$60-$70 Payment VISA, Parking Street Bar abled access
Lunch
Full
MC
When
298-6866
to go Anytime Entree range Tasting menu
Service rating
service
No Customers
Wine
••••V2
Friendliness rating
***
selection House Dress Business, casual Dis-
Ethnic Japanese, local, business
Tuesday-Saturday, noon-2:30 p.m.
Dinner Tuesday-Sunday, 6-10:30
p.m.
Setting and atmosphere A secret Japanese garden of a spot, hidden behind two wood doors (with a stone garden between where you exchange your shoes for bedroom slippers) and only two lines of diners long. The kitchen is, in effect, the decor: Slightly sunken behind what is now the sushi counter, the chefs busily stir, fry, and slice over the restaurant equivalent of a Pullman stove.
House
specialties
A fixed-price
ket and featuring courses of
two to
omakase
(chef's choice) dinner
six bites each,
seven courses of sashimi; sushi (perhaps four different pieces, ture desserts); grilled marinated
fillet
based on the mar-
but extraordinarily generous: up to like
a tray of fine minia-
offish (a choice); such delicate morsels as
ankimo
308
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
(monkfish
liver)
or rare duck breast with asparagus
tips
and sesame seeds; salmon with
Chinese broccoli; large bowls of wheat-noodle soup; and sherbet
Other recommendations
Limited a
carte sushi, such as uni (sea urchin), toro, or
la
fresh sardines; yakitori, skewer-grilled marinated chicken.
Summary and comments counting the
new
This
—which
sushi bar
a tiny establishment
is
explains
how
—perhaps
30
seats,
even
the chefs are able to produce such
exquisite and imaginative meals. For the greatest pleasure, order the tasting
menu and
experience kaiseki cuisine, the formal, Zen-derived technique that salutes both nature and art by using only fresh, seasonal ingredients and a variety of colors, textures, and cooking
show your appreciation by admiring each
techniques. Be sure to it
Note
arrives.
none of the
that
seats have backs
for storing purses, jackets, and cushion
lids
—
—and there
is
carefully
presented dish as
boxes with removable tops
^they're just
no separate nonsmoking
***•
MARCEL'S FRENCH
EXPENSIVE
***•
QUALITY
|
I
2401 Pennsylvania Avenue,
Pre-theatre 3-course, $48
When
service
***
VALUE
|
ZONE 6
296-1 166
to go Pre-theater Entree range $26-$39;
Payment VISA, MC, AMEX, DC Service rating *•* Metro Foggy Bottom Parking Valet, street meters, lots
***
Friendliness rating Full
|
NW; (202)
Reservations Recommended
Bar
area.
Wine
selection Very good Dress Business, dressy casual Disabled
access Very good Customers Business, foodies
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10
and Saturday, 5:30-1
p.m.; Friday
I
p.m.; Sunday,
5:30-9:30 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere
wrought little
iron,
more
of the sunniness
—
—yellow
paint,
weathered wood,
of the former Provencal decor remains, though a
restrained.The long marble bar
elevated) kitchen
House
Much
stone facades, flowers
is
a showpiece, and the partially
exposed (and
not so intrusive as elsewhere.
is
Game
specialties
pheasant and foie gras stuffed with sausage
in
dishes
in
season, such as breast of squab on truffled risotto;
white bean ragout with winter vegetables, or roulade of rabbit
over caramelized cabbage. Also crispy duck breast with duck
confit;
pan-fried skatecoriander-seed-crusted salmon and foie gras-duck liver mousse.
Other recommendations Seared scallops with lardons of applewood bacon; duck consomme with sweetbreads; and coriander salmon, lobster sauce, and caviar Entertainment and amenities Kennedy Center), outdoor
tables
Summary and comments
in
menu $48
Pre-theater
good weather;
live
menu
limo
to
the
Chef-owner Robert Weidmaier, formerly of Cafe on
and Aquarelle, has consistently gotten bolder, cleaner French, he gives his
(including
piano music nightly except Sunday.
—and better Though the menu
M is
a Belgian touch that provides a rootier flavor: confits, root veg-
etables (including the various endives, of course), artichokes, and flavorful but not heavy
sausages.The service dentally,
is
is
very attentive, though at times a
trifle
"educational." Marcel, inci-
the owner's young son.
ami
MARK'S DUCK HOUSE CHINESE INEXPENSIVE QUAUTY •** |
I
**i/2 |
VALUE
•**
|
ZONE
I
I
— Restaurant Profiles 6 84-A Arlington Boulevard,
Reservations
When
Helpful
to go Late lunch,
MC
whole duck $24 Payment VISA, iririr
Church; (703) 532-2125
Falls
1
Parking Valet Bar Newly
late
licensed
Wine
Entree range $7-$
dinner
••*
Service rating
Sunday-Thursday, 10 a.m.-midnight;
1
5;
Friendliness rating
selection Basic Dress Casual Dis-
abled access Yes Customers Mostly Asian, but food-sawy types from
Open
309
Friday, 10
a.m.-
1
over
all
10 a.m.-
a.m.; Saturday
2 a.m.
Setting and atmosphere
moment, anyway) seafood all,
there are
sum
available
as 100 ducks
heads, swags of roasted ducks, tanks of
Pig's
— maybe
this
every day from 10 a.m. to a
the
items on the dinner menu, not to mention the 70 kinds of dim
some 400 on
live (for
should be called Mark's Menagerie Diner: After
busy night
tonese roast duck, which
3 p.m.
On
the other hand,
a fat layer
similar
is
does
it
sell
as
many
— mostly Peking duck to non-Chinese customers and Can— Chinese but with more of delicacy
a
to the ethnic crowd.
House
Aside from the ducks: roast pork;
specialties
stir-fried
greens; black cod;
spicy quail; noodle soups with seafood, duck, or pork; eggplant with bean curd and
shrimp paste; chive dumplings; barbecued pork buns.
Other recommendations
For those
who
enjoy
and organs, there's plenty
offal
here, and often on the specials board: knuckles, tripe, tongues (duck and pork), kidneys, etc. Also
look for whole frogs, not just the
cucumber; steamed sea
When
Summary and comments in
fact,
its
this place
is
such as squab and
jumping, which
large family
Restaurant"
groups can be deafening, and the service a
little
great
is
stuff.
***
MODERN AMERICAN
EXPENSIVE
|
Park Hyatt, 24th and
M
QUALITY
|
Streets,
Reservations Recommended
NW;
When
ment VISA, MCAMEX, CB, DC, D Bar
street
mal Disabled access
Every
day,
Wine
***
•••
|
ZONE
5
Friendliness rating ••'/2
Good Dress
selection
Business, infor-
Local, business
1
it
At
becomes
first
glance,
it's
almost
plain,
two
many overdec-
sides allow diners to look out
cafe-style umbrella tables, flowering shrubs,
specialties
but after so
soothing: a simple room, light and bright, with pastels, flo-
marble, and magnificent flowers. Glass walls along
House
VALUE
to go Anytime Entree range $20-$48 Pay-
Service rating
service
|
7 a.m.- 0:30 p.m.
orated restaurants, rals,
Full
••••
(202) 955-3899
Good Customers
Setting and atmosphere
toward fountains,
—the
less patient
MELROSE
Open
sea
go to Mark's for
usual high style; but these are noises of great satisfaction. Don't
pedestrian dishes you can get elsewhere; experiment and enjoy. Eel
Parking Valet,
quail;
most of the time
is
Crowded
the Chinese sign actually translates as "Great
cacophony from than
legs; small birds
bass.
and the herb garden.
Roasted twin medallions of pepper-crusted tuna and
foie gras; pan-
seared diver scallops with parsnip puree; squash soup with duck confit; signature dishes
such as poached salmon with bok choy and vanilla-and-cardamom vinaigrette; and
steamed lobster and angelhair pasta with mascarpone sauce. house-cured gravlax stuffed with crab and creme
fraiche;
shrimp
Among ravioli
the appetizers:
with sweet corn
310
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
and cracked black pepper; poached Thai-style calamari.
Other recommendations ian
options such as parsnip
Grilled seafood (a variety each day); imaginative vegetar-
ravioli
Entertainment and amenities on Sunday
snow pea
with truffled sunchokes and baby
shoots.
Free dancing on Saturday nights; no corkage fee
nights.
Summary and comments cooking that
Chef Brian McBride has
a light-bright attitude
match for the atmosphere here;
a perfect
is
toward
good with
he's especially
seafood, which dominates the menu. His sauces are complements, not covers, and
although the attitude
And, as
risk.)
climbed
—
closing
is
more
gotten
he's
this
generally classic, his combinations often provide a gentle sur-
is
he wants to cover too many bases at once, but
prise. (Occasionally
on
in
confident and
that's
more adventurous,
an explorer's prices have
his
a "very expensive" rating.
***
MESKEREM ETHIOPIAN
INEXPENSIVE
|
I
2434
Reservations Suggested VISA,
MC, AMEX,
Street
Bar
Open
DC
|
VALUE
***V2
ZONE 6
|
462-4 00 1
When
Payment
to go Anytime Entree range $9-$ 3 1
***
Service rating
service Wine selection Minimal
Full
Customers
QUALITY***
NW; (202)
8th Street.
1
***
Friendliness rating
Parking
Dress Casual Disabled access Good
Locals, tourists
Sunday-Thursday, noon-midnight; Friday and Saturday, noon-
Setting and atmosphere
1
a.m.
Simple but cheerful, with "skylight" rays painted blue
and white, and Ethiopian-style seating
(for the limber)
on leather cushions
at balcony bas-
ket-weave tables.
House
specialties
Kitfo (tartare
with chile sauce, but
it
can be ordered
or you can have a similar hot chopped-beef stew called kay leg
meat sauteed with onions and green
sambusa
Other recommendations
Ethiopian food:
First,
Chicken
spoon, and napkin
—
may be
in
cooked,
and green
and
chile
a
dozen
of the
Ethiopia
all in
in
is
one; second,
alictia is
the
1
is
name
the spicier one. Washington's
Adams-Morgan
—order
3-month Ethiopian
many
Ethiopian restaurants
alone) offer similar menus, is
one of the
some
in
best.
If
|
one
Street,
NW; (202)
is
the
that corresponds to September, is
akin to springtime.
icirVi
QUALITY ***'/2
|
I
327 Seventh
cases with-
you want a sam-
the mesob for $7.25. Meskerem, incidentally,
calendar, the
the end of the rainy season and thus
MODERATE
injera as
of the milder stew or curry
MONTMARTRE FRENCH
honey-wine
There are three things novices need to know about
a tray-sized injera palette
month
which
lentil
alicha for the spice-intimidated; a
out much distinction between stews, but Meskerem pler
beef or
eaten with the hands, using a spongy pancake called
it's
preparation; and third, watt
first
watt;
lightly
tibbs (breast
kitfo called gored-gored.
Summary and comments
(there
shrimp
lamb
(fried pastries).
version of
plate,
chiles);
watt);
544- 244 1
VALUE ***'/2
|
ZONE 7
1
Restaurant Profiles
When
Reservations Recommended
ing
****
Metro
to go Early or
DC
$l6-$25 PaymentVISA. MC.AMEX,
Bar
Eastern Market Parking Street
dinner
late
••••
Service rating
Full
Lunch Tuesday-Friday, 1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 5:30-10 p.m.; Friday and
1
Entree range
Friendliness rat-
service
Short but good Dress Casual, business Disabled access Fair
3
Wine
Customers
selection Local
I
Saturday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Sunday,
5:30-9 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere of the
word "cafe,"
This
is
the sort of place that makes "cozy"
sunny-sponged room of about 50 seats with a
a single
seem
part
like
tiny bar at the
back, lively views of the sidewalk to the front and the kitchen to the rear, and elbow-to-
elbow
tables.
House
specialties
wide egg noodles
in
The
signature dish here
cream sauce, and
slow-braised rabbit leg with olives and
is
hard to beat. Otherwise, look for hangar
it's
steak (onglet); a very Parisian salad of frisee with fried gizzards and bacon lardons;
cream of cauliflower soup with mussels; shrimp and lemon
risotto; mussels with Ricard;
sauteed monkfish over potato cake with anchovy butter
Other recommendations
Daily specials such as venison rib chops with braised
endive and a guinea hen confit with Jerusalem artichokes.
Summary and comments Bistrot Lepic (the other
is
This
is
one of the
Petits Plats in
Woodley
beneficiaries of the shake-up at
Park), as the
owners are alums of
that hospitable cafe and of the longtime Provencal hangout, Lavandou Park.
success as a neighborhood favorite
Its
is
in
Cleveland
attested to by the fact that there are fre-
quently crowds winding out the door.
***
MURASAKI MODERATE
JAPANESE
QUALITY
|
•••
|
VALUE
•••
[
ZONE 7
I
4620 Wisconsin Avenue, Reservations
ing
Helpful
PaymentVISA,
higher
NW; (202)
When
to go Anytime Entree range $IO-$28; market price
MCAMEX, DC, D
• *** Metro Tenleytown Dress
Limited
966-0023
Service rating
••••
Friendliness rat-
Parking Street Bar Beer and Wine Wine selection Disabled access Good Customers Ethnic Japanese,
Business, casual
business
Lunch
Monday-Friday,
I
1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m; Saturday
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-
1
0: p.m.;
and Sunday, noon-2:30 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 5:30- 0:30 p.m; Sunday, 1
5:30-9 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere hue
in this
elegantly spare
Murasaki means "purple," but there
room, which tends instead to
only slightly "Asian" look using
The
grill
wood
and sushi bars, which run
framing,
a long L
cream
isn't
much
a clean, partially
walls,
of that
Deco and
and a pleasant side
patio.
around the rear of the room, are the
focal
points.
House
specialties
The
real specialties (occult parts of sea creatures, delicate
dishes, etc.) are not printed
they then items.
On
dislike,
baked
on the menu, since novice diners too often order dishes
so Japanese connoisseurs should consult with the chef about favorite
the other hand, even lobster sashimi and lobster miso soup can tickle the
3
2
1
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
trend-addicted. Also
look for eggplant dengaku, soft-shell
marinated sea bass; white tuna and uni sushi
Other recommendations
—
in fact,
An assortment
tempura, miso-
crabs
any sushi here.
of seafood tennpura that puts
all
Maine
fisherman's platters to shame; and for unregenerate carnivores, pork teriyaki and (seared) beef sushi.
Summary and comments
The
among the most respected by
chefs here are
peers, and the restaurant's proximity to the Japanese Embassy
Avenue,
down
NW; (202)
is
a very likeable, though
Yosaku
the street called
more
predictable, Japanese
that should please (47 2 Wisconsin 1
363-4453).
NEW HEIGHTS MODERN AMERICAN
|
23 7 Calvert Street, 1
**
MODERATE
QUALITY***
|
NW; (202)
Reservations Recommended
234-4
When
ment VISA, MCAMEX, DC, D
1
1
0;
Informal, business
Brunch
Sunday,
I
1
Full
Fair
***
service Wine selection Very
Customers
good
Local
a.m.-2:30 p.m.
I
A
p.m.; Friday
small
and Saturday, 5:30-11 p.m.
Woodley Park townhouse
opened up to take advantage of the
House
ZONE 7
|
to go Anytime Entree range $ 7-$30 Pay-
Disabled access
Setting and atmosphere
light
simply decorated and
and the glorious view down Connecticut
Circle.
The menu changes
specialties
change of
|
Service rating **!/2 Friendliness rating
Dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-10
Avenue to Dupont
VALUE **i/2
vvww.newheightsrestaurant.com
Metro Woodley Park/Zoo Parking Valet Bar Dress
their
probably no accident;
and even v/edding parties often crowd the dining room.
large tables of Japanese diners
Should Murasaki be booked, there restaurant just
is
chef; at press time, at least, the
dishes; sesame-seared tuna with baby
seasonally,
menu
and with the
included
bok choy and
relatively
frequent
good versions of fairly standard
sushi rice cakes;
lambchops with
goat cheese-mashed potatoes; and horseradish-crusted halibut with crab-parsnip puree.
Summary and comments chefs.
Owner Umbi
This
may be Washington's most
successful "school" for
Singh, has a great eye for chefs (a half-dozen of
ated to restaurants of their own) and a history of giving
whom
them room to
have gradu-
stretch (from
Meditteranean to fusion to Modern American). The newest, Arthur Rivaldo, worked at Citronelle.
NORA MODERN AMERICAN
irirVi |
2 32 Florida Avenue, 1
EXPENSIVE
|
NW; (202)
QUALITY
***y2
|
VALUE***
|
ZONE 6
462-5 43; www.noras.com 1
Reservations Recommended When to go Anytime Entree range $25-$32; tasting
Payment VISA, MCAMEX, personal checks Service **** Metro Dupont Circle Parking Street, valet Bar Full service Wine selection Good Dress Business, casual Disabled access No Customers Locals menu, $58-$64; vegetarian, $58
rating ***'/2 Friendliness rating
Dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30-10:30
p.m.; Sunday, closed
3
Restaurant Profiles
A
Setting and atmosphere and
enclosed greenhouse balcony
House
specialties
in
townhouse with exposed
pretty corner
a gallery of handicrafts, quilt pieces,
the rear
and faux
1
brick walls
the dining rooms; an
naif art in
the prettiest area.
is
The menu changes
3
frequently, but look for sauteed calf's liver;
salmon and more imaginative vegetarian platters than elsewhere.
Summary and comments A and B lists, was haute organic a prime
mover
in
Nora, the neighborhood hangout of the Dupont Circle before organic was chic: chef-owner
the slow food and renewable crops forces, and
the Chef's Collaborative.
The back
of the menu, which changes
farms where the meat, produce, dairy products, and eggs according to the supplier alongside the restaurant is
—are
Nora was
passed on, but not unreasonably
Zen penance.
meals sometimes
Its
was the
it
only drawback
feel heartier
also
first
the specific cholesterol,
in
flower and herb garden
such specialized ingredients
ahead of the crowd by introducing
restaurant to
make
lentils
that didn't
an odd tendency to weightiness
is
was
low
—the
than they taste.
OBELISK
iririrVi
VERY EXPENSIVE
ITALIAN
Pouillon
on the board of
daily, lists
naturally
all-edible
indicative. The cost of acquiring
is
alternative grains and pastas, and taste like a
own
raised. Nora's
—
Nora
is still
QUALITY
|
****'/2
|
VALUE****
|
ZONE 6
I
2029 P
Street,
NW; (202)
872-
1
1
80
When
Reservations Recommended
to go Anytime Entree range Prix
fixe, five-
Payment VISA, MC, DC Service rating **** Friendliness rating ***!/2 Metro Dupont Circle Parking Street Bar Full service Wine selection Good Dress Business, informal Disabled access No Customers Local, business course, $65
Dinner
Tuesday-Saturday, 6-10 p.m.; closed Sunday and
A
Setting and atmosphere tomers,
tiny
and accoutrements
staff,
chest but the astonishingly
room
Monday and good-humored; the cus-
that's elegant
— not only the
room's
floral
centerpiece and silver
breadsticks and bottles of grappa
light
—work
intimately
elbow to elbow.
House
specialties
menus
rich
— he
Chef Peter Pastan has
offers a fixed-price
maybe four choices per course. Among nel;
figured out the cure for overlong, over-
menu, four to
courses with only three or
five
typical antipasti:
marinated anchovies and fen-
artichokes with goat cheese; caramel-soft onion and cheese tart; crostini; a thick
soup; quail terrine; crispy fried cheese; polenta with gorgonzola; potato or rice balls.The primi course
is
apt to be seafood or pasta (red pepper noodles with crab and pungent
chive blossoms; gnocchi with pesto; ond'!,
veal (particularly tenderloin
pano with
olives; black sea bass
wheat noodles with
rabbit ragout) or soup; the sec-
prepared with artichokes or chanterelles);
or perhaps game birds or a mixed
grill.
After that
comes
—
it's
a quality bargain in this
Summary and comments anything; sauces are
and greens
—
more
(pom-
a fine bit of cheese, with or
without a dessert course following. Whatever the price
menu
fish
with grilled radicchio, grilled shrimp with herb puree);
—
it
varies with the daily
town.
Pastan's
like glazes,
hand
is
so deft he doesn't need to overdress
and pungent ingredients
are perfectly proportioned to their dish.
Above
—
olives, pine nuts, garlic,
all, it
shows the value of
314
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
letting a chef
who knows
one
what he
exactly
Pizzeria Paradiso next door,
knows the
SEAFOOD 20
as he likes. Pastan,
who
owns
also
good bread dough, more than
in fact.
EXPENSIVE
NW; (202)
VALUE ••^/i
|
ZONE
|
3
347-bass
When
Reservations Recommended
ment VISA, MC.AMEX, D Metro Center Parking
Dress
•••
I
F Street,
1
QUALITY
|
**
ROOM
OCEANAIRE SEAFOOD 1
do
likes
value of a really
to go Anytime Entree range $20-$30 Pay-
•**
Service rating
Bar
Valet, pay lots
***
Friendliness rating
Wine
service
Full
Disabled access Good Custonners Local
Business, dressy casual
Metro
selection Very good business,
boutique finance types, lobbyists
Open 5-1
Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-IO
p.m.; Sunday,
I
Setting and atmosphere is
Inspired by the great ocean liners of the
leather booths and heavy silvenThe music ter crackers, and the in itself.
House fish
all
raw
bar,
with
So are the retro
p.m.; Saturday,
I
1
930s, the
room
in daily
from
all
day);
is
even more kinds of fresh
directions (Arctic char, Hawaiian spearfish.
pound; a huge chilled seafood platter If
condiment tray includes oys-
Big Band, the
cocktails: side cars, Singapore slings, cosmopolitans, etc.
available simply grilled; crab-
man's platter
is
leather-topped stools and great piles of oysters,
its
Oysters (up to a dozen varieties a
specialties
flown
cod),
1
of curved surfaces, gleaming cherry- and etched-wood dividers, brass-studded
full
a trip
11:30 a.m.-
p.m.; Friday,
5-9 p.m.
or, for fried
"sushi-grade black grouper"
Other recommendations
is
seafood
available,
fans,
North
Atlantic
by the
sole; lobsters
and shrimp-stuffed gray
the old-fashioned fisher-
head straight for
it.
Crabcakes; a "cocktail" of rock lobster-sized shrimp;
Ipswich clam or oyster pan roast.
Entertainment and amenities The olives, radishes, giant capers, etc. This
bar the steal meal of the
Oceanaire would be
new
outcome
herring, carrot sticks,
century.
In fact,
we were
if
only rating on the oyster bar,
five stars.
Summary and comments logical
relish tray of pickled
even comes with oysters, making a dozen at the
This
is
the seafood chain of the twenty-first century the
(given the ever-increasing size of the portions, steakhouses
accounts) of the hefty surf-vs.-turf wars. Everything
is
and expense
huge, easily shared, and that goes
double for desserts. (The retro look and retro extravagance partly explain some of the retro entrees, such as baked Alaska and oysters Rockefeller) frills
a
little
excessive, and you definitely pay for the quality
The asparagus
erans might blink at the $22-per-pound tag on the lobsters
be showily "informative," but for a seafood
fan,
it
really
tired of only a swordfish option at the steak palace, list
hidden at the bottom: one chicken option, a
it's
is
is
of
a luxury liner
staff
And
1
080
1
|
EXPENSIVE
the vet-
can
for those
funny to see the "not seafood"
mignon, or a cheeseburger
filet
**
OLD ANGLER'S INN MODERN AMERICAN
fat,
—even some chophouse —and some the
|
QUALITY
•••
MacArthur Boulevard, Potomac; (30
) 1
|
VALUE
299-9097
••/2
|
ZONE OB I
5
Restaurant Profiles
When
Reservations Required
Bar
Free lot
service
Full
Lunch
Parking tie
Locals
Sunday, noon-2:30 p.m.
Tuesday-Saturday, noon-2:30 p.m.
Dinner Tuesday-Sunday, 6-9
blazing fireplace
narrow, iron
A
beautiful, old-fashioned inn
Other
in
seasonally, but frequently includes ostrich,
in classic
service),
and fresh
fish.
which can be requested as vegetarian or seafood-only
Summary and comments the wine
— haphazard
list's
dressing
occasion "inn"
a
and lobster. Also look for squab or duck dishes, caviar (either as an
recommendations Ask for the chefs-choice
weaknesses
a
rooms up
good weather.
The menu changes
specialties
ingredient or
river, v/ith
(and bathrooms out of the servants' quarters). The stone
spiral staircase
terrace and gazebo levels are open
House
above the
the parlor bar downstairs and a huddle of small dining
in
foie gras, venison,
Monday
p.m.; closed
Setting and atmosphere
little:
•••
Friendliness rating
selection Brief Dress Dressy, business, jacket and
No Customers
Disabled access
Brunch
Wine
•••
rating
1
Payment
to go Anytime Entree range $24-$36
VISA.MC.AMEX.CB.DC Service
3
menu if
you
(for the
This has always been a beautiful
service and hit-or-miss food
range doesn't keep up with
its
more
down more, treating
it
—which may be the
direction
—
still
whole
table only),
like.
site,
threaten
it
but
familiar
its
occasionally,
neighborhood restaurant than a
as a it's
MODERATE
|
special
headed.
**
OLD EBBITT GRILL AMERICAN
and
price range. The crowd, too, has changed, a
QUALITY JrJrVi
\
VALUE
•••
|
ZONE
3
I
675
5th Street,
1
N W; (202)
347-480
tripping
***
***
G
fee,
Street atrium)
for
power-
I
Business, feds, locals, tourists
a.m.
Saturday and Sunday, 8:30 a.m.-4 p.m.
midnight; late-night
menu every
Setting and atmosphere hospitality: a
I
day,
I
a.m. -midnight;
midnight-
An updated
few horsey accoutrements
etched-glass dividers
House
work
1
Customers
Lunch/dinner Monday-Friday,
with
after
DC, D Service rating
$ 5 Dress Business, informal Disabled access Very good
Breakfast Monday-Friday, 7:30-1
Brunch
MCAMEX,
Metro Metro Center or McPherson Square Parkand all day Sunday) Bar Full service Wine selec-
lots (validated after 6 p.m.
tion Good; corkage (through
v/ww.ebbitt.com
;
to go Sunday brunch,
Entree range $9-$25 Payment VISA,
Friendliness rating
ing Pay
1
When
Reservations Recommended
in
specialties
homemade
1
Saturday
and
Sunday,
p.m.-
old-boys' club, but with equal opportunity
(bridles, snaffles) in front, lots of
the main room, and a classic oyster Linguine with shrimp,
basil,
greenery and
bar.
and fresh tomatoes; pork chops
applesauce; black pepper-rubbed leg of lamb with papaya relish; old-
fashioned pepperpot beef; steamed mussels;
smoked salmon
(a
company
and smoked bluefish when available.Annually, during the brief halibut season the Old Ebbitt and
its
Clyde's cousins have a halibut celebration that
performance for seafood beef hash.
4
a.m.
lovers. For brunch, fat old-style
is
a
signature) in
Alaska,
command
French toast and corned
316
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
Entertainment and amenities
Summary and comments
Occasional piano music at happy hour.
This
one restaurant whose whole experience
is
—
somehow better than the food might indicate by itself. The Old Ebbitt actually, new Old Ebbitt for those who remember the fusty Back Bay-style original around corner and
stuffed
its
owls and scuffed bar
rails
location seriously, but not too seriously. That
—
takes
is, it
is
the
the
White House neighborhood
its
out pagers to patrons waiting
gives
for tables, but the staff democratically seats the ties and T-shirts side by side.
**
OLD GLORY BARBECUE
M
3139
MODERATE
|
Street,
Reservations
|
QUALITY ••'/i
NW; (202)
VALUE
|
•••
ZONE
|
5
337-3406; www.oldglorybbq.com
Parties of 6 or
When
to go
Payment VISA, MC,AMEX, DC, D Service
rating
more
Afternoon Entree range $9-$25
***
**!/2 Friendliness rating
only, for lunch
Parking Pay
or weekday dinner
lots,
street
Bar
Full
service
Wine
Good Customers
selection Minimal Dress Casual, informal Disabled access Local, tourist
Brunch
Sunday,
I
I
a.m.-3 p.m.
Lunch/dinner Monday-Thursday, a.m.; Sunday,
I
I
I
1
a.m.-2 a.m.; late-night
A
Setting and atmosphere
menu
and Saturday,
available every day,
chic and cheeky take
The
a sort of Six Flags theme:
:30 a.m.-2 a.m.; Friday
1
I
I
1
:30 a.m.-3
:30 p.m. until closing
on roadhouse diner decor with
state colors of Tennessee, Texas, Georgia, Kentucky,
Kansas (which used to be Arkansas), and the Carolinas hang overhead, while each table is
armed with
chilied,
bottles of six different barbecue sauces
—named
mustardy, tomatoey
—
same seven
for the
mild, sweet, vinegary, multi-
states.
A
mix of old and new
country and honky-tonk music plays on the PA.
House
specialties
Pork
or beef spareribs; "pulled" (shredded rather than
ribs
chopped) pork shoulder; jerk-rubbed, roasted chicken; slow-smoked
smoked ham; various combinations or sandwich versions
leg of lamb;
thereof. Daily specials often
include pit-fired steaks or fresh seafood.
Other recommendations
Pit-grilled
burgers with cheddar and smoked ham; mar-
inated and grilled vegetables; marinated, wood-grilled shrimp.
Summary and comments particularly
The
when
it
biscuits are fine (the
—
rice
is
This trendy finger-lickers' stop
comes to the sort cornbread
better than authentic.
It's
is
surprisingly good,
of Southern side dishes that rarely travel well.
isn't),
neither
and the hoppin' John
mushy nor
—black-eyed peas and
greasy.
ORTANIQUE CARIBBEAN/NUEVO LATINO
ZONE
3
730
Ith Street,
I
irirVi |
VERY EXPENSIVE
NW; (202)
|
QUALITY***
|
VALUE
***V2
|
393-0975
Reservations Helpful When to go Late
for the scene
Entree range $3 -$50 Pay1
VISA, MC, AMEX, D Service rating *** Friendliness rating **** Metro Metro Center or Gallery Place/Chinatown Parking Pay lot Bar Full service
ment
Wine
selection Limited Dress Business, dance-clubbish, casual Disabled access
7
Restaurant Profiles Good Customers
some
Latino and buppie business; under-30s cocktailers;
3
1
pre- and
post-MCI Centre crowds
Lunch Monday-Friday, noon-2:30
p.m.
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10
p.m.; Friday
Setting and atmosphere
This
wide-open atrium-style
trompe
citrus),
various
ceiling,
I'oeil
son, Ortanique
House
big
I
p.m.; closed
Sunday
eponymous Jamaican
vinery (including the
nooks and even a few "private" tables on the mezzanine made for
little
being seen. The 350-gallon aquarium and
and broadcast
1
good-looking and festive restaurant, with a
a
is
and Saturday, 5:30-
lanquid inhabitants are on closed-circuitTV
its
on a barside screen. Formerly owned by BET founder Robert John-
still
has a black/business/media contingent
who
dress to impress.
Several ceviches du jour (including conch with Scotch bonnet
specialties
peppers and salt-cod "tater
spiced-rum and jerk-rubbed pork
tots"); curried crab cakes;
West
chops; more-tangy-than-sweet barbecued salmon;
Indian-style bouillabaisse in
curried coconut broth; and a rich but fascinating jerk-rubbed foie gras over salad and
duck
Grand Marnier "drizzle."
confit with
Other recommendations with
salsa;
conch
sesame- and spice-marinated tuna
Spicy-fried calamari;
fritters.
Summary and comments
The menu was designed by Miami
star chef
son,
who
calls
here "cuisine of the sun," a West African, Caribbean, Floribbean fusion.
hand-trained the kitchen and checks back
ple find the layered flavors excessive
—though,
palate
oddly,
in regularly;
and
Cindy Hut-
reflects
what she
Some peo-
and even confusing, others love the byplay on the
none of the heat
is
Miami Vice-worthy. There's
live
music for
dancing or just drinking Thursday through Saturday.
PALENA
iririrVi
MODERN AMERICAN
|
EXPENSIVE
3529 Connecticut Avenue,
|
QUALITY
NW; (202)
Reservations Recommended
When
pay lot
Bar
Full
service
Wine
VALUE
|
•••
|
ZONE 7
to go Anytime Entree price $II-$3I;
course, $52; 4-course, $59; 5-course, $66
rating ***i/2 Friendliness rating
••••'/2
537-9250 3-
Payment VISA, MC, AMEX, DC, D Service
***y2 Metro
selection
Cleveland Park Parking Street,
Good Dress
Business, casual
Disabled
access Good Customers Local up-and-comers; connected out-of-towners
Dinner
Tuesday-Saturday, 5:30-10 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere lean, easy,
Deceptively low-key from the sidewalk, this
is
a long,
cream-colored space leading back from a chic front lounge to a subtle garden
that provides a pleasant light over the banquets.The a
the front (another dual-menu restaurant); dinner
is
la
carte
menu
Is
available only in
either three, four, or five fixed-
price courses.
House
specialties
The menus
are seasonal, and also market-driven, but
examples of the kitchen's work: Daring and generally ster and beet salad, rabbit rolled
around
among
delightful presentions such as lob-
a quail egg with greens stuffing; venison loin
paired with braised short ribs or veal cheeks with sweetbreads; sauteed skate, or
pig's
ears en croquette (which points out the chef's unusually broad repertoire).
Other recommendations gamey squab; red snapper
in
Carefully tended duck breast or
sometimes sweet-
aThai-inflected broth; meaty crab salad. Ravioli stuffed with
3
1
8
oxtail,
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
almonds,
raisins
and spinach; housemade pasta with duck ragu.
Summary and comments
Chef and co-owner Frank Ruta has one of
impressive kitchen resumes, starting at the River Club, Obelisk, and Provence
and
his
D.C.'s
most
White House and working through the
—hence the
free eclecticism of his combinations.
He
co-owner, the equally prominent pastry chef Ann Amernick, bought what had
been one of the previous Greenwood
how smoothing are desirable
in
sites
and actually upscaled the food while some-
the atmosphere, replacing personality with repose. (Both, of course,
The one quirk
dining circles.)
is
the one-price-fits-all entree
**•
PERSIMMON MODERN AMERICAN
sizing.
MODERATE
|
|
QUALITY****
7003 Wisconsin Avenue, Chevy Chase; (30
)
VALUE***
|
|
ZONE OA I
654-9860
1
When
Reservations Recommended
to go Weeknights Entree range $ 7-$25 Service rating **i/2 Friendliness rating ***i/2
Payment VISA, MCAMEX, DC Metro Bethesda Parking Street
1
(metered), pay lots
Bar Beer and wine Wine selec-
Good Customers
tion Small but good Dress Business, informal Disabled access
Older suburban couples, young conservative professionals
Lunch Monday-Saturday,
I
1
:30 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30-
A
Setting and atmosphere tions with
ruby-ripe
House
p.m.; Sunday, closed
1
real storefront,
which has survived various incarna-
pressed-tin ceiling remarkably intact,
its
name and
now
sponged to match
exotically
its
given a "brocade" glitter with clusters of gilt-frame mirrors.
A
specialties
trio of tartares: tuna, salmon,
and ceviche; barbecue chicken
pot stickers with mango salsa and black beans; wasabi-fried oysters; duck confit with frageolets;
mushroom and
blue cheese-stuffed
ravioli;
crabcakes; pecan crusted rack of
lamb; shiitake and hoisin crusted salmon.
Other recommendations
That retro
mashed pota-
favorite, roast chicken with
toes and vegetable ragout; grilled pork porterhouse with fried plantains; bouillabaisse, crab cakes and
fish in general.
A homemade
Entertainment and amenities
Summary and comments actually
This simple but smart
more mod/Med/fusion
—might
Chef-owner Damian Salvatore assured and
more
smoothly than
in
interesting
early years)
pate with the bread basket.
is
fill
little
eclectic
American
the Georgetown-chic gap
in
the time. And the kitchen (which seems to run
extremely presentation
INEXPENSIVE I
2029 P
|
irirVi
QUALITY***
NW; (202)
Street,
more
savvy.
PIZZERIA PARADISO PIZZA
bistro
Bethesda.
another Washington chef whose cooking gets more
is
all
well
|
VALUE****
223- 245; 3282 1
M
Stret,
(
ZONES
5
NW; (202)
AND 6
337- 245 1
Reservations Not accepted When to go Anytime, except around 8-10 p.m. Entree
range $9-$ 7 Payment VISA, MC, 1
DC
Service rating
***
***
Metro
Wine
selection Limited Dress Casual Disabled access
(P Street)
tourist, student
Dupont
Circle
Parking
Friendliness rating
Street, pay lot
Bar Beer and wine
No Customers
Local,
Restaurant Profiles
Open
Monday-Friday,
I
1:30 a.m.-
p.m.; Saturday,
I
1
I
I
319 noon-
a.m.-midnight; Sunday,
10 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere with trompe capitals of
I'oeil
As
tiny as this
papier-mache veggies;
a
House olives,
smokestack; and walls (a sly
Pizzas with four cheeses, or "the atomica" with salami, black
specialties
and potato with pesto sauce and parmesan. Thick sandwiches made with focaccia, including roast
lamb and roasted veggies; multimeat
Summary and comments good
pizzeria, but pizza this
extra-virgin olive
oil
has real attitude larger than
them out
Street,
It
may seem extravagant to
—shoveled
in
blush.
It's
next-door
sibling.
marks to a
moment
last
just an irresistible
A new
New Wave
nonchalance.
location
is
them
now open
MODERATE
|
NW; (202)
1
AMEX. DC, D Service informal
Lunch
QUALITY
|
•••
VALUE
|
room; not accepted
in chili
7; prix fixe: lunch. $20, dinner,
rating
lots (validated)
*** Bar
|
ZONE
3
service
Wine
11:30
a.m.-2 p.m. Chill
to go Lunch
*•*
selection
Local, tourist, bar:
When
bar
$25-$37 Payment VISA. MC,
Friendliness rating
Full
Disabled access Excellent Customers Monday-Friday,
••
638-4444; www.redsage.com
Essential for dining
Entree range $12-$
Parking Pay
3282
**
605 14th Street.
ter
and
in
at
337-1245.
RED SAGE NEW SOUTHWESTERN
Reservations
—makes
pizza. This restaurant also
Obelisk, Pizzeria Paradiso shoehorns
at an astonishing but validating rate.
NW; (202)
give such high
and out of the deep oven, with a splash of
almost a re-definition of
—not commercial camp,
its
pork with hot peppers.
Italian subs;
and a handful of cheese tossed on at the
most American takeout
M
like a
Amish hexes around the
and hot peppers; zucchini, eggplant, peppers, and fresh buffalo mozzarella; mus-
Other recommendations
rolls
like
the mass-market competition, perhaps?).
sels (surprisingly, yes);
No
hilariously decorated,
is, it's
woodburning stove painted
semi-Impressionistic painted cardboard pizzas
comment on
upper room
stone walls opening at the "ruined roof" to a blue sky; columns with
Metro Metro CenGood Dress Dressy,
gourmet mag groupies
Monday-Saturday,
a.m.-
11:30
S
Dinner Monday-Friday. 5:30-10 bar:Sunday, 4:30-1
I
p.m.; Saturday,
5-10:30 p.m.; Sunday, 5-10 p.m.
A
Setting and atmosphere
fun and funny $5-million-plus
New Wave
slant
Santa Fe chic, with cast-iron lizard door handles, plaster clouds with "lightning" chili bar.
and $100,000 worth of
House
specialties
glass
Roasted red
a
in
on the
etched with campfires and broncos.
chile,
pecan-crusted chicken breast with plantain
and black bean empanadas, wilted chard, pico de
mostarda on
Chili
p.m.
gallo in a shallot sauce; elk loin
bed of mushrooms, turnips and zucchini; pan-seared salmon
paillard
with
a ragout of butternut squash; peppered yellowfin tuna (served at lunch with roasted
portobello
mushroom topped
greens, red pepper, and chive
Other recommendations
with blue cheese, carrot, zucchini, yellow squash,
field
oils).
The
Cubana Torta
(griddled
pork
loin
with
ham
and cheese); blue cornmeal oysters. Upstairs, the Border Cafe has a choice of fascinating
320
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
salads, small chic pizzas,
and at dinner breaks out into updated enchiladas (mushrooms
and goat cheese), quesadilla (portobello, chipotle, portobello),tacos (catfish or salmon).
Head
BBQ
brisket), burritos (spinach
to the restaurant on "F" Street offers three types of
special daily sandwiches, sal-
chili,
and sweets (202) 638-4448.
ads,
Summary and comments come way down
has
Sad to
say, this still-famous
the world as far as
in
Marou Outtara, who gave
kitchen
its
best run since founder
it its
is
Mark
(and
and Red Sage seems to be
adrift,
entertaining) spot
still
concerned. Longtime chef Miller
was
NW;
Signatures (801 Pennsylvania Avenue,
at the very promising
charge,
in
|
is
now
(202) 628-5900);
over-priced and inconsistent. Best bet; eat upstairs.
***
RESTAURANT EVE MODERN AMERICAN I
and
market adjacent
for the border, indeed.The
EXPENSIVE
|
QUALITY
***V2
|
VALUE****
|
ZONE
II
10 South Pitt Street, Alexandria; (703) 706-0450
When to go Anytime
Reservations Recommended menus, $65-$90 rating
Dress
***
Entree range $2l-$28;Tasting
Payment VISA, MC, AMEX Service
Parking
Bar
Street, pay lot
Business, dressy casual
****
rating
service
Full
Wine
Friendliness
selection Very good
Disabled access Very good Customers Local
foodies,
special occasion diners
Lunch Monday-Friday, :30 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner Bistro, Monday-Saturday, 5:30-10 I
1
p.m.; Tasting
Room, Tuesday-Saturday,
5:30-10 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere the
two rooms
—the
An
handsome
unusually
more formal
Tasting
Room
place, with a pleasant bar
and the a
la
carte Bistro
and
(itself
a
smart-looking combination of exposed brick and brocade swag), separated by a mutual fireplace
and both with views of the patio
—
plus
outdoor seating
in
good weather and
even beyond that a garden that can be used for private parties or functions.The hallway also
does double duty as the wine
House
specialties
Among
cellar.
Tasting
huckleberries and Swiss chard; lobster
Room
options,
creme
Muscovy breast with
brulee; venison with
figs
foie gras,
and hazelnuts;
gnocchi with roasted acorn squash and toasted pumpkin seeds; Dungeness crab bisque;
salmon with golden beets and bacon; wild mushroom napoleon.
Other recommendations
From the
a
la
carte Bistro menu, braised lamb shank
with baby turnips; salt-baked prawns; potato crusted cod with olives, tomatoes and aioli;
wild Scottish salmon roasted cauliflower and
Entertainment and amenities dotted deviled
quail's
Roma
beans.
Unusually alluring amuse bouches such as caviar-
eggs on brioche.
Summary and comments
Owners
Cathal Arnstrong, longtime chef at Bistro
Bis,
and wife Meshelle, a veteran of Citronelle's front room, know that
if
then
also a local star, vet-
detail
is
style.
(Sommelier/general manager Todd Thrasher
eran of Signatures and Cafe Atlantico.) This
menu
is
the latest
establishments (actually three, as the bar has
its
proponent of organic and sustainable farming.The Bistro the name; and though the chef
is
in
is
style
is
everything,
Washington's trendy two-
own
light fare), as well as a
not an informal
cafe, despite
Irish-born, entrees such as the braised
lamb shank,
is
—
C Restaurant Profiles bouillabaisse, and
haps a
little
sweetbreads show
But he earns
The
cutely divided not only by course but by mythology:
"Creation," the second
all
Room menu
French flair.The Tasting
off his
it.
fish
course
is
321
first
"Ocean," the meat and fowl "Earth and
For sheer luxury, go for chef's nine-course degustation
per-
is
course
is
Sky," etc.
menu and
leave
the choices to the kitchen.
ROCKLANDS BARBECUE
irVi
INEXPENSIVE
|
QUALITY**':
|
VALUE***
|
ZONES
|
5.
IB. II
I
NW; (202)
333-2558 25 South Quaker Lane, Alexandria; (703) 778-9663 4000 North Fairfax Drive, Arlington; (703) 528-9663; vvww.rocklands.com 24 8 Wisconsin Avenue. 1
Reservations Not accepted
When
to go Afternoon,
dinner
late
Entree range
Payment VISA, MC, AMEX Service rating **'/2 Friendliness rating *** Metro (Arlington) Clarendon Parking Limited street meters Bar None Wine selection None Dress Casual Disabled access No Customers Locals $5-$20; Market price higher
Open
Georgetown: Monday-Friday,
day.
a.m.-9 p.m. A/exondr/o: Monday-Saturday,
I
I
Arlington: day,
I
Monday-Tuesday,
1:30 a.m.-
1
I
1:30 a.m.- 10 p.m.; Saturday.
1:30 a.m.-9 p.m.;
and Saturday.
p.m.; Friday
I
I
I
I
I
a.m.- 10 p.m.; Sun-
I
a.m.-9 p.m.; Sunday,
Wednesday,
I
I
I
a.m.-8 p.m.
1:30 a.m.- 10 p.m.;
1:30 a.m.-midnight; Sunday,
I
I
Thursa.m.-9
I
p.m.
Setting and atmosphere
room
is
taken up by
Its
most of the
small storefront size, and the fact that
pit space, kitchen,
and
grill,
mean
that this
is
authentically a stand-
up or bolt-and-carryout spot. There's only one communal service table and eight stools at the
window
dishes.The primary decor
is
counter, and the food supplied by the
two
is
served
wall cabinets of trendy
super-hot chile sauces, chutneys. etc. The Arlington branch
is
really
House
specialties
sandwiches
Car
almost
(actually
pepper and
the kitchen partner
of an auto-dealership-turned-billiard parlor called, appropriately, the
Chopped-pork
or
six
burger-shop paper
in
Pool.
everything
including the marinated sliced lamb loin, trout, and catfish, but excepting the ribs and
chicken wings,
is
served as a sandwich); racks fish
Other recommendations
Most of the
(mustard, turnip,
etc., available
in
in
quarter, half and
pints
although there are those
dish, perhaps,
Park, after
sizes;
and
fre-
old-style side dishes, such as the greens
and quarts), potato
salad, slaw, fresh
beans, and red beans and rice are very good. The corn pudding Stuffing,
full
such as salmon and swordfish.
quently "exotic" meats or fresh
who swear
is
more
like
green
Stovetop
by the Caesar salad: a yuppie-ish side
and one that seems to go strangely with the crew, but
hey. this
is
Glover
all.
Summary and comments style") pit barbecue.
Amid
the
tidal
wave of authentic (and only "authentic-
Rocklands might be considered a nouveau-retro meat counter,
attracting both barbecue heads and food trendies.
stocks a huge selection of super-hot chile sauces taste-testing
— but he
also likes to serve up
Owner
—and
John Snedden not only
sets out several at a time for
meats more interesting than the usual
pig.
He's experimented with elk. boar, venison, and ostrich, and he often throws out a
whole carcass
(of whatever) as
happy-hour
fare.
322
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
***
SEA CATCH MODERATE
SEAFOOD 1
054
3
QUALITY
|
••••
NW; (202)
price higher
When
to go Early Entree range $IO-$32, market
Payment VISA, MC,AMEX, DC, D Service
rating irirVi Parking Validated for
Lunch Monday-Saturday, noon-3
hours Bar
Full
rating
service
Friendliness
Good
selection
Local, business
p.m.; Sunday, closed
Sleekly elegant, with a white marble
Setting and atmosphere
room with
***
Wine
p.m.
Dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30- 10
dining
3
Disabled access Good Customers
Casual, business
wood
ZONES
|
337-8855; www.seacatchrestaurant.com
Reservations Recommended
Dress
••••
VALUE
|
I
St Street,
1
good weather,
fireplace, and, in
raw
bar, polished-
a balcony overlooking the
Chesapeake & Ohio Canal.
House
Jumbo lump crab cakes with vegetable
specialties
trout, flounder,
which
flown
gumbo;
is
A
personal "off the
when
only available
the raw bar
isn't
menu"
of the day.
fish
favorite
the lobster
is
too busy. Fresh stone crab claws
from Maine are another seasonal treat.Also check for happy hour
in
Summary and comments larly ideal
for people
who
This
suffer
is
from
is
specials.
an underrated seafood establishment particu-
fear of frying. The key here
Shively likes to play with his presentations, but not to the point
texture of the shellfish
obscured. Those
who
Chef Jeff
balance:
is
where the
prefer the straighter stuff
quality
grilled;
in
the kitchen, proof of the chef's dedication to freshness) brushed with
no and
—
list
it's
much more
interesting than the usual fish
grill's
selec-
However, for dedicated carnivores, the Thai-marinated roast chicken or the steaks
are very dependable. There
is
also a
steamed lobster and
shellfish
dinner for $30.
**V^
1789 MODERN AMERICAN 1
is
oil
or an updated surf-and-turf of tenderloin and crab-stuffed mushrooms. Ask for
guidance with the wine tion.
or
may order
lobster steamed, grilled, broiled, baked, or poached; a variety of fresh fish (there
freezer
lin-
rainbow
grilled
mahi mahi, Chilean sea bass, swordfish and always whole
Other recommendations Sashimi,
poached lobster
slaw;
guine; seared tuna au poivre; chef Shively's Louisiana seafood
226 36th Street,
|
EXPENSIVE
NW; (202)
QUALITY
|
965- 789;
Reservations Recommended
1
When
••••
wvm.
Disabled access
Full
Wine
service
No Customers
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 6- 10
|
VALUE
•••
ZONES
|
789restaurant.com
to go Anytime Entree range $l8-$38
Payment VISA, MC.AMEX, DC, D Service Parking Valet Bar
1
rating
***
selection
Friendliness rating
Good Dress
***
Jacket required
Local, business, tourist
p.m.; Friday,
6-
1
I
p.m.; Saturday,
5:30-
1
I
p.m.;Sunday,
5:30-10 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere
A
meticulously maintained Federal townhouse with
blazing fireplaces, polished silver, and historic poise; a certain formality
is
implied rather
than expressed.
House
specialties
Rockfish with carrots and fennel; crispy whole red snapper
with Chinese black bean-sauce; bacon-crusted salmon with
lentils,
spinach and pinot
Restaurant Profiles
323
noir sauce; grilled barbecued duck breast with greens; venison medallions with black
trumpet mushrooms. Several of these dishes come from the "tasting greatest-hits
menu from
table," a sort of
the kitchen's history, available together for $60 or a
Other recommendations
carte.
la
Rack of lamb with feta-flavored potato au
gratin;
endive salad with duck confit and bleu cheese; oyster stew with walnuts and ham.
Summary and comments cases regional
and reclaim
it's
money
grilled quail
In
of a culinary tender of the flame than an innovator, which suits
more
show-
availability,
care and respect.The kitchen aims to re-create
with oysters and bacon, venison medallions, dishes — —and update them rather than invent novel treatments. other words, classic
rack of lamb
This menu, inspired by seasonal
game and seafood with
clientele.
However, under the direction of chef
moving with increasing confidence into
middle ground,
a
its
old-
Ris Lacoste, the kitchen still
is
but fresh. Vege-
classic
tarian options are especially intriguing.
SUSHI-KO
iri^irii^Vi
MODERATE
JAPANESE
NW; (202)
Reservations Recommended
ment VISA,
MCAMEX
VALUE
|
••••
|
ZONE
5
Business, casual
Lunch
333-4 87 1
When
to go Anytime Entree range $l5-$23 Pay-
•*•
Service rating
Street, valet (dinner only)
Dress
••••Vi
QUALITY
|
I
2309 Wisconsin Avenue,
Bar
**•
Friendliness rating
Parking
Wine selection Good, particularly No Customers Local, ethnic
service
Full
Disabled access
French
Tuesday-Friday, noon-2:30 p.m.
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 6-10:30
p.m.; Friday, 6-1
p.m.; Saturday, 5:30-1
I
p.m.;
I
Sunday, 5:30-10 p.m.
A
Setting and atmosphere carefully unfrilly;
House
more
Any
specialties
porary, from
sleek twist on classic sushi bar decor downstairs,
modern
obviously
—
If
—
upstairs.
caviar,
fish,
contem-
both cooked and raw,
and sometimes unexpected American
you want to see what he can do, order the four-course ($40) or six-course
($65) tasting menu:You'll be
full
Other recommendations and toro
fish liver)
non-tradition-bound
involving and often combining
Chef KojiTerano,
with seaweeds, wild greens, grains, herbs, touches.
i.e.,
of the seasonal "small dishes," either traditional or
but not stuffed. Sushi, especially seasonal dishes such as
(fatty tuna); broiled eel; soft-shell crabs;
octopus
ankimo (monk-
salad; grilled fish;
spring for real wasabi.
Summary and comments
Thanks to
its
unusual seasonal dishes, Sushi-Ko attracts
made
a broad, generally knowledgeable, and fairly affluent crowd. This has
owner Daisuke Utagawa and traditional
and improvisational
his
—
team to
^that
is,
offer a
more
based on market
sonal factors. However, while the "ordinary" sushi
make dinner somewhat more waste
it
is
pricey than a meal at
it
possible for
flexible style of cooking, availability
both
and traditional sea-
reasonable, those specials can
most other
on someone who's happy with grocery-store California
sushi bars, so don't roll.
Utagawa
is
also
intrigued with the notion of matching French wines and Japanese food, and offering higher-quality sakes.
324
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
**
TABARD INN FRENCH/ITALIAN
1739
N
MODERATE
|
Street,
NW; (202)
QUALITY
|
When
ment VISA, MCAMEX, DC, D Good Dress
VALUE
|
•••
|
ZONE 6
to go Anytime Entree range $ 0-$32 Pay1
Service rating
Dupont
Farragut North or
selection
1/2
785- 277; www.tabardinn.com
Reservations Recommended
Metro
••
***
Friendliness rating
Disabled access
Business, informal
****
Wine No Customers Busi-
Parking Street Bar
Circle
Full
service
ness, locals
Breakfast Monday-Friday, 7-10
Brunch
Saturday,
I
Lunch Monday-Friday, :30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. p.m.; Saturday, 6Dinner Sunday-Friday, 6I
1
1
Setting and atmosphere a courtyard at ing
its
rooms with
and Sunday, 7-9:30 a.m.
a.m.; Saturday
a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
I
heart (as
0:30 p.m.
1
This almost theatrically old-English jumble of all
good
rooms
has
English country inns should), a series of small din-
surprisingly light-hearted
decor
(a
garden-path mural up the
stairs,
for
example), and a wood-lined library with couches and a fireplace, ideal for a winter afternoon, cocktail before dinner, or after-dinner cordial.
House
mushroom and
Grilled rare tuna; wild
specialties
marinated ostrich steak; roasted cod; seafood stew;
smoked mozzarella tomatoes and carmelized
Summary and comments
gone through
bistro style, the Tabard has is
a
erratic;
little
but
Although
it's still
a favorite
onion
vidalia
it's
fava
grilled
currently
bean lasagna;
tart;
baby spinach
its
tone and quality
picturesque setting.
•**
TABERNA DEL ALABARDERO VERY EXPENSIVE
SPANISH
|
QUALITY
•••
salad.
a sort of hearty eclectic
in
a series of chefs, and so the
spot thanks to
grilled
scallops with fettucine;
|
VALUE
•••
|
ZONE
3
I
1776
I
Street,
NW (entrance on
18th Street); (202) 429-2200;
wv/w.albardero.com
When
Reservations Recommended
to go Anytime for
tapas, lunch for fixed-price
meals Entree range Lunch, $ 8-$24 and dinner, $27-$37; 1
chef's tasting
daily vegetarian
menu, $65;
Payment VISA, MCAMEX, rating •** Metro Farragut
menu, $85; fixed lunch and dinners, $42-$55
DC, D, JCB Service rating **** Friendliness West or Farragut North Parking Free next door Bar Very good Dress Jacket and
tie
Full
suggested Disabled access
service
Wine
selection
Good Customers
Local,
embassy, ethnic
Lunch Monday-Friday, 1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.; I
Friday and Saturday, 5:30-1
I
p.m.; Sunday,
closed
Setting and atmosphere
Lace curtain and velvet old-world elegance, with ornate
moldings and a magnificent private
House
specialties
mushroom
room
(like a
chapel)
in
the center
Luscious lobster paella at night, as well as traditional
paellas; squid in its
own
ink,
and wild
roast leg of lamb; veal chop with red wine sauce;
7
Restaurant Profiles octopus with peppers; baked meat
Other recommendations dozen seafood
at lunch ($42)
Summary and comments One
nified.
a
pies.
Daily specials, particularly game, and at least a half-
specials every day; quail or pheasant; halibut with mussels.
menus
fixed-price
alternative
This
a very old-world-style restaurant and quite dig-
is
to dabble inTaberna's riches via the tapas menu, a selection of
is
dozen smaller-sized dishes (and you can
linger as long as
you
like). it's
special-events trend, with wine dinners and imported guest chefs regional cuisine with monkfish
in
menu and
may be up
ratings
There
is
also a
list
also getting into the
who show
off Spanish
cream of pumpkin porcini soup,
saffron ragout,
With the departure of both longtime chef Josu Zubikarai and
etc.
his assistant/successor
for review.
***i/2
TAKO GRILL INEXPENSIVE
JAPANESE
There are
and dinner ($55).
of a dozen sherries by the glass and red or white sangria.And
Enrique Sanchez, the
325
QUALITY ***i/2
|
VALUE***
|
ZONE
|
I
OA
I
7756 Wisconsin Avenue, Bethesda; (30
When
Reservations Recommended
)
652-7030
1
to go Before 7 p.m. Entree range $6-$
Payment VISA, MC, AMEX Service rating Metro Bethesda or Medical Center Parking
****
Street, public garages, free lot (dinner
Bar Wine and beer Wine selection House Dress
only)
access Very good Customers
Lunch Monday-Saturday,
I
1
***
Friendliness rating
Casual, informal
Disabled
Local, business
:30 a.m.-2 p.m.
1
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10
and Saturday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Sunday,
p.m.; Friday
5-9:30 p.m.
A
Setting and atnnosphere black,
and
scarlet,
but with deft
cool, hip, very I990s-Tokyo
room, a study
white,
in
touches (the flower arrangements) and almost
artistic
hallucinatory "script" versions of Japanese verses hung on the walls. (The chefs, particularly
dened
—check
the younger ones, are very Tokyo-stylish, too hair.)
The
adjoining sake bar (where you
out the bleached and red-
may order food
as well)
is
particularly
smart.
House
specialties
grilled teriyaki king
tempura
Soft-shell crabs
fried
salmon; broiled freshwater eel on
and chopped into hand
rice; (Sushi bar) sushi
rolls;
assortment
of tuna, yellov/tail, salmon, flounder, crabstick, shrimp, seawater eel and shad roe; grilled
whole red snapper or rainbow
Summary and comments
trout; glazed grilled eel; tiny candied
Of the
whole octopus.
four best Japanese restaurants
in
the area, each
has a different slant: Makoto's (a very small hideaway on Macarthur Boulevard) sic;
Sushi-Ko's cutting-edge; Kaz'a influenced by the de-construction
Tako's cool
—
especially thanks to the addition of the sake bar. In addition to
the best and freshest sushi and sashimi robotai,
The
line
on which whole
fish,
rice,
large shrimp,
of customers waiting to get
the surest evidence of Tako's
and a
daily
in
in
the area.Tako has a hot-stone
and
is
clas-
movement; and
some
of
grill
called a
a variety of fresh vegetables are
cooked.
—two recent expansions notwithstanding—
quality. Weekday
is
lunches are a business special: soup, salad,
entree (orange roughy, chicken teriyaki, ginger pork), plus six pieces of
rolled sushi for $9.
And
since often several of the waitresses are vegetarian or vegan.
326
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
Tako
especially well
is
equipped to
customers with
satisfy
special diets.
**
lARATHAI INEXPENSIVE
THAI
|
QUALITY ••1/2
|
•••
VALUE
ZONES
|
OA,
I
I
OB.
II
A,
II
I
4828 Bethesda Avenue, Bethesda; (301) 657-0488 12071 Rockville Pike (Montrose Crossing), Rockville; (301) 231-9899
4001 North Fairfax Drive, Ballston; (703) 903-4999 750 -C Leesburg Pike,Tysons Corner; (703) 506-9788 1
226 Maple Avenue West,Vienna; (703) 255-2467 Reservations Helpful
When
MCAMEX, DC. D
VISA.
ing Free
Bar
lot
abled access
Full
Fair
1
Wine
service
Customers
*•*
Friendliness rating ***i/2 Parl<-
selection House Dress Informal, casual Dis-
Ethnic, local
Lunch Monday-Friday. :30 a.m.-3 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday. noon-3:30 Dinner Sunday-Thursday. 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday. 5-1 p.m. I
Payment
to go Weekdays Entree range $10-$ 4
Service rating
p.m.
1
I
Setting and atmosphere
"Tara" has nothing to do with the Old South.
and these charming restaurants are marine blue and swimming
"blue."
creatures and lacquered tables.The original Vienna branch that
a
it
seems
cheerfully
more mixed
crowd to
20- and 30-something
specialties
Whole
its
quite small, but so friendly
cheeky murals, window-box
the big Rockville branch
is
—the
and
bar,
gold-and-glitter look.
either fried with chile sauce or steamed
fish,
mushrooms and
leaves with black
means
crowded rather than annoyingly so.The Bethesda branch draws
chrome touches.The newest
House
is
It
in fantastical
banana
in
ginger; soft-shell crabs; "wild" lamb curry; red curry
beef; green eggplant curry with chicken.
Other recommendations with slaw
Nua sawan
try the "heavenly wings" (chicken
tizer,
stuffed with crab
dried but tender beef, fried and served a light meal or shared appe-
drummettes scraped back
and green onion, then battered and
Summary and comments at the
(thin,
—sort of Thai barbecue); honey-glazed duck. For Too much success
a
is
into rattle shapes,
fried).
two-edged sword: while the
fare
Vienna and Bethesda branches remains consistently good, some of the other
branches, notably Rockville, are
more
erratic. The
group also owns the promising Tara
Asian, near the Rockville Metro, which serves pan-Asian fare.
***
TASTE OF SAIGON VIETNAMESE
[
INEXPENSIVE
QUALITY
|
•••
|
VALUE
••••
ZONES
|
I
OA,
I
I
410 Hungerford Drive, Rockville; (301) 424-7222 8201 Greensboro Drive, McLean; (703) 790-0700; www.tasteofsaigon.com Reservations Accepted
When
MCAMEX,
D
VISA,
Metro ited
I
I
(Rockville) Rockville
Dress
Open
CB, DC,
Informal
to go Anytime Entree range $8-$ 5 1
Service rating
Parking Free
lot
***
Bar
Full
service
Disabled access Good Customers
Monday-Thursday,
I
I
Payment
Friendliness rating
Wine
****
selection Lim-
Local, business, ethnic
a.m.- 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday,
I
I
a.m.-
1
I
p.m.; Sunday,
a.m.-9:30 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere
An
intriguingly
angular, sleek, gray-and-black-lacquer
Restaurant Profiles room
tucked into the back of a plain office building.
slyly
House
specialties
Steamed whole rockfish served with
for rolling up; choice of seafoods scallops,
or shrimp
—
house
in a
pho and other noodle soups
—whole
Patio dining
The
in
stick to the
steamed
fish
specials here are interesting dishes;
Some
as
if
the
of the sauces are quite heavy, but
if
or bountiful soup choices, a Vietnamese dinner can be a
dream.
iririrVi
PORTUGUESE
|
MODERATE
QUALITY***
|
|
VALUE****
8401 Connecticut Avenue, Chevy Chase; (30
When
Reservations Recommended
ment AMEX, VISA, MC, DC Parking Free
lot
Bar
service
Full
Lunch Monday-Friday,
I
fireplace,
1
***
selection
Named
for a medieval fortress like
a dungeon),
—
it's
fries," really
***
Business, casual Dis-
I
town
made
p.m. (a
good pun, con-
bright by sunny paint, a
a sort of indoor patio with bar.
tureen of mussels with tomato-sweet pepper broth; veal
chops with sherry; clams with chorizo and prosciutto; the"french
Dress
Fair
and Saturday, 5-1
p.m.; Friday
heavy artisan pottery, and glass sconces
A
Friendliness rating
Local, business
the basement of a bank,
specialties
I
1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Setting and atmosphere in
ZONE OA
|
652-8684
to go Anytime Entree range $ 5-$30 Pay-
Wine
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10
it's
1)
Service rating
abled access Good Customers
House
it's
but the seafood
fair,
TAVIRA
sidering
quail;
good weather.
as intrigued as the diners. The beef dishes are only
and game bird entrees are particularly good.
dieter's
pepper sauce.
Cornish hen stuffed with pork; boneless roast
Summary and comments
you
and vegetables
rice crepes
lobster (up to four pounds), soft shells,
appetizer or entree sizes; rich venison curry.
in
Entertainment and amenities
were
live
special black
Other recommendations
kitchen
327
more
like
Other recommendations
homemade
grilled
lamb chops. Don't miss
potato chips.
Roasted red peppers stuffed with goat cheese; seafood
stew; traditional salt cod shredded with straw potatoes, onions, and egg; spicy grilled
chicken
piri-piri; paella-like
arrozValenciana.
Sunnmary and comments itself
indispensable
in
a
Although not terribly
visible
of traditional Mediterranean and navy-trade fare.
It's
also a
"vinho verde," the "green wine" of Portugal, so called for fine
to
traffic, Tavira
neighborhood hungry for good food and a
complement to the sometimes
oil-
city
good
its light,
MODERATE
|
QUALITY
I
1909
K
Street,
NW; (202)
making its
mix
place to test out
youthful quality and a
and garlic-strong food.
***i/2
TEATRO GOLDONI ITALIAN
is
ready for
***
[
VALUE
***
|
ZONE
3
955-9494; vw/w.teatrogoldoni.com
Reservations Recommended
When
to go
Lunch; late
$l6-$36 PaymentVISA,MC,AMEX,DC Service rating
dinner
***
Entree range
Friendliness rating
328
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
*** Metro FarragutWest or Farragut North Parking Valet, pay lots Bar Full service Wine
selection Very good Dress Business, dressy, dressy casual Disabled access
Good Customers Lunch
Business, foodies
Monday-Friday,
I
:30 a.nn.-2 p.m.
1
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10 Setting and atmosphere
p.m.; Friday
and Saturday, 5-1
Take the word "teatro" seriously:This
ting for a culinary performance. Mini-spots are trained stars;
own
And
"stages."
on the
is
a theatrical set-
plates like klieg lights
show behind
the huge mirror over the bar reveals the
booths are on their
p.m.
I
on
you; and the tables and
Not
you'd better be dressed for the part:
only
are the other customers watching you, but the eyeholes of the masks on the wall and
those of the photographed models half carneval)
seem to be
the-top, depending
House
the rest of the decor, half
(like
evaluating you. In other words,
it's
commedia
dell' arte,
either exhilarating or over-
on your mood.
specialties
Look
chop served
for earthy but not heavy flavors: roasted veal
with fingerling potatoes and wild
mushroom
sauce; lobster risotto; braised lamb shank
served over a cannellini bean puree; pan seared tuna "rare" served with sauteed zucchini
and carrots, and topped with balsamic vinegar sauce.
more
dishes, again
In
colder weather, expect comfort
riche than weighty: braises, stews, ragus, chicken and morel "casserole."
Other recommendations
If
roasted veal
with wild mushrooms, argula, truffle
Summary and comments
is
on the
specials,
go
good vegetarian options such
Also expect interesting risottos and
oil
straight for them.
penne pasta
as the
and shaved parmesan cheese.
Chef-owner
Fabrizio Aielli
on
is
eponymous
his third
Roberto Donna. However,
restaurant, and that after years at Galileo with
his particular
Venetian, and the squid and fried seafood dishes, such as the fritto misto, are
accent
is
among
his
personal prides. His flamboyance opens Teatro up to
some
inconsistencies;
but even the errors are interesting.
***
TENPENH MODERATE
PAN-ASIAN
QUALITY •••^/i
|
VALUE
|
•••
|
ZONE
3
I
1
00
1
NW; (202) 393-4500; www.tenpenh.com Recommended When to go Early dinner or bar Entree
Pennsylvania Avenue,
Reservations
$ 3-$28 Payment VISA, MC,AMEX, CB, DC, 1
rating
***
Valet, pay lots
Metro Bar
Full
D
Service rating
Federal Triangle or Archives/NavyMemorial/Penn Quater service Wine selection Very
good Dress
Disabled access Very good Customers Business, food
Lunch
Monday-Friday,
I
1
Setting and atmosphere outside, but inside,TenPenh
This is
like
is
a
p.m.; Friday
shopping
and bamboo place mats.
trip to
pick $40,000
House
Bangkok,
and Saturday, 5:30-1
p.m.
I
office building,
and
it
looks
one of those simple Asian jewelry boxes that opens
bronze flatware, teak lamps, curio trays as dessert ceiling,
trendies, media, pols
famous old law-firm
to reveal the subdued glitter of saffron and gold
the
Parking
Business, casual, dressy
:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10:30
it
range
**** Friendliness
silk,
patined Buddhas,
And no wonder: The owners took
Hong Kong, Ho Chi Minh
hammered
buffets, incense coils dangling
City,
a
from
three-week
Macao, and Singapore to hand-
worth of furnishings.
specialties
Peking duck
roll;
Hong
Kong-style crispy catfish; curried lump
— 5
Restaurant Profiles
329
crabcakes; steamed shrimp- scallion dumplings; spicy wok-seared calamari; a sort of
tempura-fried California
signature Chinese
appetizers); grilled yellow
roll (all
with coconut milk;
stir-fry
smoked
fin
tuna,
udon noodle shrimp
spice/pecan-crusted halibut with port-ginger sauce; the
five
lobster with crispy fried spinach; red Thai curry prawns with
pineapple.
Other recommendations
Oysters with sake-pickled ginger granita (another
house-smoked salmon and wonton "Napoleon"; panko crusted
nature);
sig-
soft-shell crab
of the day.
ravioli; crispy fish
Entertainment and amenities
Great amuses bouche.such
as the Thai-spiked gaz-
pacho.
Summary and comments
The executive chef here
Coast, assisted by Clift Wharton; and this fun-fare
bazaar Both the appetizer and entree
ornate, mild to spicy, light to heavy; stalls
are
wine
list
like
lists
Jeff
Tunks, also of D.C.
a giant progressive dinner, only sitting
is
Bangkok, where the outdoor
a mogul's tent.
in
at the heart of
run the gamut from simple to
really like dining in
it's
is
handling of seafood
his fearless
Not
only
INEXPENSIVE
QUALITY***
|
I
800 King Farm Boulevard, No. Reservations Helpful but not
Payment Parking
VALUE****
|
125, Rockville; (301)
essential
Street, free lot
Bar
Full
Monday-Thursday,
I
1
|
ZONE
service
Wine
I
OB
258-8829
When to go Anytime
MC, AMEX Service rating
VISA,
abled access Good Customers
Open
the
••*
THAI FARM THAI
is
thoughtful, unusual, and affordable, there are several fine sakes to try as well.
***
Entree range $7-$
Friendliness rating
1
****
selection House Dress Casual Dis-
Families, locals
:30 a.m.-
p.m.; Friday
1
and Saturday,
I
1
:30 a.m.-l 0:30 p.m.;
Sunday, 5-10 p.m.
A
Setting and atmosphere a
pun
in
itself,
recently a working farm
with grasses and
House
is
—with murals
Yum
specialties
watercress, quick-fried leaves tossed with chicken, shrimp,
lime-chile sauce; fried calamari (scored, not ring-sliced); pattaya
in
hoy
pow
mussels; whole
fish.
Other recommendations
Green curry
sauce; steamed dumplings; spicy
meat
Summary and comments
Chef Vilai
frying,
vegetables; gang ped yang,
in
penang
Chivavibul, light,
who was
the original chef at Ben-
clean hand with both spices and curries
but her handling of seafood, especially scallops and squid (which
chefs tend to overcook),
is
MODERATE
many
particularly admirable.
TOSCA I
duck
salad.
jarong (profiled above), has a remarkably
ITALIAN
until
of farming on the walls and tabletops lacquered
red curry; panang sauces that are peanutty without being overwhelming;
in
chile-spiked
and with
panorama of Thai farming
the King Farm development which was
in
rice.
squid and cashews
seafood
sort of three-dimensional
as the restaurant
iririrVi |
QUALITY****
|
VALUE **i/2
|
ZONE
3
330
I
I
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
NW;(202) 367-
12 F Street
When
lots, valet
Bar
to go Lunch, late dinner Entree price DC, D Service rating ***i/2 Friendliness
MCAMEX,
$l8-$32 Payment VISA, rating ***'/2
990; www.toscadc.com
1
Reservations Recommended
Gallery Place/Chinatown Parking Street, pay
Metro Metro Center or
Wine
service
Full
Good Dress
selection
abled access Good Customers Business
Business, Friday casual Dis-
(especially power-lunchers), pre-theatre,
young trendy
Lunch Monday-Friday, 1:30 a.m-2:30 p.m. Dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Friday and I
Setting and atmosphere
This
Saturday, 5:30-1
decor so cool many people
is
shades of gray and beige with only splashes of cream and teal effect of
making the dishes themselves seem more
go for the tasting menu, five or
House oli;
Octopus
specialties
fresh
thyme
six
vivid.
If
I
find
— but
p.m. it
cold
—stony
does have the
it
you are hungry for sensation,
courses for $85, vegetarian for $45.
salad with fennel
and artichokes; heirloom tomato
ravi-
with roasted lobster and green peas; milanese-style breaded
taglierini
chicken cutlet with arugola and parmesan cheese salad with oven-dried tomatoes; fettucini with veal
and duck
liver ragout;
Lamb shanks with buckwheat
polenta; black sea
bass roasted under fresh porcinis.
Other recommendations
Roasted lamb with marinated eggplant and red onions;
crab cake with sauteed green peas, carmelized vidalia onions and pine nut sauce; fresh
pea and housemade pork sausage risotto; choice of fresh
Summary and comments Tosca stands out. Lanfranconi
Lombard
is
D.C
Even
rich in chefs
is
accent. Lunch
is
newly-bustling restaurant neighborhood,
started out
another; this especially shows
in his
in
the Galileo
galley,
is
also a chef's table in the kitchen,
popular with Senator Ted Kennedy,
among
which
partic-
•**Vi
M ODERN AMERICAN 1
is
others, so reserve early and often.
294/
294
and Cesare
combinations but he has a uniquely
expensive but elaborate enough to be the meal of the day; try
the fast pre-set lunch for $25.There ularly
in this
who
grilled seafoods.
|
MODERATE
QUALITY
|
•••
VALUE
|
••••
|
ZONE
MB
Fairview Park Drive, Falls Church; (703) 270- 500 1
Reservations Strongly recommended
MCAMEX,
$23-$28 Payment VISA,
rating ***>/2 Parking Free
good Dress
Business, casual
lot,
When
to go Lunch, anytime Entree price
DC, CB Service rating
valet at night
Bar
Full
•**
Friendliness
service Wine selection Very
Disabled access Very good Customers Business, locals,
foodies, special occasion diners
Lunch Monday-Friday, :30 a.m-2 p.m. p.m.; Sunday, 5Dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30I
1
1
Brunch
Sunday,
I
I
Setting and atmosphere
sculptures, Zen-like fish it
sparkles with
Floribbean blue and
House
specialties
p.m.
Extremely handsome, despite
building address: a three-story atrium, huge glass
Inside
1
a.m.- 1:30 p.m.
ponds and with stone
warm wood
tangerine linens
its
apparently staid office
windows and doors and even
patio, lake
(and sometimes firelight from the
and a vast U-shaped marble
Foie gras crusted with pistachios
glass
and fountain view to boot.
two
hearths),
bar.
(among other treatments);
— Restaurant Profiles salmon with
here bread
meat
sorrel; signature
tenderloin and roast is
lamb
wiener schnitzel or sweetbreads.And
a specialty, too. thanks to the chef's dad. ophthalmalogist-turned-baker
Mai Krinn: usually a half-dozen nickel to
pairings such as steak with braised beef cheeks,
veal tenderloin with
and
leg,
331
in
the basket, from Parmesan to sage to fennel, pumper-
sourdough.
Other recommendations Hot tempura-like seafood puffs; caramelized scallops mushroom ragu; quail with apples and bleu cheese; Alaskan black cod with honey
with
and soy Vegetables get unusually close attention here.
Entertainment and amenities
between courses; the
Palate cleansers
comes
bill
out "sweetened" with cotton candy, chocolates and house-made marshmallows.
Summary and comments restaurant his
in
partner
is
his
New York's
with
may
This
be, along with the Minibar, the
Washington. Chef and co-owner Jonathan Krinn
showy,
Gramercy Tavern and Union
prestigious
France.
in
(his ginger-
tartare) but never
It
shows
in
Remarkably, Krinn
his
is
on
his
resume
M
Street.
|
MODERATE
NW; (202)
which
is
stylish
own
and just a
pastry chef, too.
service
|
QUALITY
When
Circle or Farragut
Wine
Dinner Sunday-Thursday 5:30-10
1
****
lishment (disabled access as
is
its
1
0th anniversary, owners
and although
through the
new-Southern
office
this
Jeff
fish
grits;
with a crayfish-rice
style
lobby elevators),
souffle,
Sallie
it's
remarkably bright for
silk
magnolias and bold ceramics. flavors are hearty
or
light,
but the
roll,
veal
mustard seed-crusted tuna, pan-seared; pan-roasted monk-
fritter,
tasso ham,
mache
round-bone lamb steak with artichokes,
sweet potato
and
actually a below-stairs estab-
Revival as a Southern Living magazine: buttermilk walls,
Depending on the season, the
specialties
is
juxtapositions are always intriguing. Veal sweetbreads with a crisp lobster
cheeks over cheese
Bar
Street, garage, valet (dinner)
and Saturday 5:30-10:30 p.m.
p.m.; Friday
elegant green and blue upholstery, and displays of
House
***
Friendliness rating
local, tourist
To celebrate
a million-dollar facelift,
basement and
ZONE 6
|
1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
I
Setting and atmosphere
a
VALUE****
selection Very good Dress Business, dressy, casual Disabled
Lunch Monday-Friday.
it
|
to go Anytime Entree range $ 2-$32 Pay-
North Parking
access Good Customers Business,
Buben gave
****V2
1
MC, AMEX, D Service rating
VISA,
Metro Dupont Full
little
and sided with tuna
like "lollipops"
659- 990; www.bistrobis.com
Reservations Recommended
ment
— but
as well
**•*
MODERN AMERICAN 990
boy
Gerard Pangaud and Alain Ducasse and
his style, too,
and sake-seared tuna skewered silly.
Pacific
VIDAUA 1
fun fine
former teacher, L'Academie de Cuisine director Pascal Dionot
as Gerard's Place (above) with Michelin stars
Michel Rostang
most
originally a local
is
salad,
olives,
and etoufee sauce; a Provencal-
and pork
smothered onions, turnip greens,
rib
chop pan-fried with
fried apples,
and lemon-orange
whiskey sauce at dinner, and a spiced-pork sandwich slow-cooked and served openface with toasted cornbread, avocado, and black bean-relish at lunch.
Other recommendations
Shrimp and
grits
is
the signature dish; pan-roasted hen
with fingerling potatoes; at lunchtime, cornmeal-crusted catfish with succotash of butterbeans, pearl onions, corn, bacon, and dumpling squash; buttermilk-fried chicken breast
332
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
with black-pepper gravy, fingerling potatoes, and green bean and butter pea salad.
Entertainment and amenities amuses bouches such
Complimentary wine
mushroom
as
Summary and comments
tastings,
Tuesday 5-7 p.m.;
boullion.
Executive Chef Jeff Buben and longtime on-site chef
Peter Smith have just shaken up their menu, picking native American ingredients based
on
flavor rather than tradition.
broader light
tastes.
The
Though the name
Southern, the
is
menu
is
fused with
luxuriant sauces aren't necessarily low-cal, but are served with a
touch.
***
WOO LAE OAK MODERATE
KOREAN
|
QUALITY ••••/2
VALUE****
|
|
MB
ZONE
I
1
500 South Joyce
Street, Arlington; (703)
52 -3706; www.woolaeoak.com 1
When
Reservations Accepted, suggested on weekends
range $IO-$20 Payment VISA,
***
rating
informal
Open
Parking Free
Disabled access
Every day,
lot
Bar
Wine
Casual,
California Asian, this freestanding section of an apart-
room on
a big, curving slice of a
stilts,
with modernized versions of
soy beef barbecue); spicy strips with spinach,
barbecue
grills built in.
— Korean shabu shabu—
Shin sun ro (a fancy hot pot
specialties
fish
stew
in
a pot;
bean sprouts, zucchini,
Other recommendations on
Friendliness
Dress
1
24 hours' notice); saeng sun jun (battered and
etables
Fair
Ethnic, local
traditional wood-slat-and-rice-paper decor.AII tables have
House
****
selection
1:30 a.m.- 0:30 p.m.
I
is
to go Anytime Entree
Service rating
service
Full
No Customers
Setting and atmosphere
ment complex
MCAMEX
rice with a
that requires
grilled fish); bulgoki (the familiar
sweet-
yook hwe bibimbap (marinated raw sesame
etc., in
Paijun, a scallion
oil);
boneless short
seafood crepe; sliced raw
hot pepper-chile paste on the
side; broiled red
rib
fish
sirloin
cubes.
and veg-
snapper; scallion,
seafood, and green pepper pancake; pan-fried meatballs coated with egg and flour
Woo
Summary and comments Korean cuisine
Lae
Oak
150,000 meals a year And for good reason:This
becuing (or
in
the case of the
made
of the dishes are
many hot-pot
first
—
dishes cost less at lunch. The
non-Asian diners
is
that
one
it's
real
it
is
so big
is
bar-
many
pieces,
either a meal or a first course for several.
disappointment about
ro.
this restaurant for
doubt that you know what you're
seriously; for example, even with the
be hit-or-miss whether you get your shin sun
—about 24
in
serves
not food to eat alone. The fun
is
that staffers frequently either
ordering or don't take
name it
dishes, dipping) with friends. Besides,
for two, and the sashimi appetizer
and cut Korean-style, meaning large
Many
widely considered the
is
the Washington area: Part of a small but international chain,
in
Note: At
24 hours' notice,
press time,Woo Lae
it
can
Oak was
negotiating to relocate to Tyson's Corner
ZAYTINYA MIDDLE EASTERN
i^i^-kVi |
70! Ninth Street,
Reservations
MODERATE
NW; (202)
QUALITY ***'/2
|
|
VALUE ***'/2
|
ZONE
3
638-0800
Available 5-6:30 p.m. only
dinner Entree range $l7-$23
When
to go Late lunch-early dinner;
Payment VISA, MC,AMEX Service
late
rating ***i/2
— Restaurant Profiles
333
Friendliness rating ***''2
Parking
Business, casual trendies,
Open
Metro Gallery Place/Chinatown or Metro Center Bar Full service Wine selection Good Dress Disabled access Good Custonners Business, foodies, young bar
Street, pay lot, valet at dinner
pre-MCI Center crowds
Sunday and Monday, and Saturday.
p.m.; Friday
I
1:30 a.m.-IO p.m.; Tuesday-Thursday.
I
A
Setting and atmosphere room, white and angular with stocked with
lit
I
1:30 a.m.-
1:30
1
:30 a.m.-midnight
1
high and airy but almost
big,
modern
art-minimalist
a soaring atrium-style ceiling, cut-through shelving walls
nooks and
candles, a long (and very busy) bar, half-hidden dining
a fireplace and a mezzanine overlooking the Manhattan-style
communal
table
niches,
the
in
center of the main dining room.
House
Lamb
specialties
cracked-wheat tartare;
mini-meatballs with cinnamon
feta-
and tomato-stuffed
and dried
oil
fruit;
beer and
quail with fingerling potatoes; crab
cakes with shaved fennel; flaming cheese with oyster, shiitake and cremeni mushrooms.
Other reconnmendations
Pork and orange-rind sausage; braised rabbit with
mussels with pistachios; giant favas with tomatoes and red onions; meat-
lentils; fried
stuffed mantj dumplings; squid in a variety of treatments.
Summary and comments which means "olive
oil"
in
Not "Middle
Turkish
—
Eastern"
Chef of the Year Jose Andres, already racking up
ApetJt
Atlantico,
launched
restaurant
between
in
Oyamel.The range
smart and
this
is
in
the usual sense, Zaytinya
Mediterranean. 2004 Bon
specifically Eastern
is
stars with the Minibar at
Greek/Turkish/Lebanese
sophisticated
Spanish tapas kitchens (Jaleo) and his
his
wine
boggling: and the Middle Eastern
list is
the
latest,
**
ETHIOPIAN
INEXPENSIVE
QUALITY
|
I
20
1
NW; (202)
28th Street,
Reservations Accepted VISA,
MCAMEX, DC, D
Street, pay lots
Bar
Full
•••
333-47
When
Every
day,
I
I
a.m.-
1
I
linen,
fresh
gives
•••
ZONE
|
5
1
1
Wine
•••
Friendliness rating
Payment
**•
Parking
selection House Dress Casual, business DisEthnic, local
p.m.
A
Setting and atmosphere whitewashed exterior
VALUE
to go Anytime Entree range $ 0-$ 6
Service rating service
|
1
abled access Not accessible Customers
Open
Cuban
unusually intriguing.
ZED'S
1
Cafe
mezze
deceptively simple
way to
flowers, formally
a cool,
dressed
Georgetown rowhouse
outside,
its
shadowy world of wood screens and white
staff,
instruments, and
musical
artifacts
of
Ethiopian culture.
House
specialties
Classic Ethiopian fare such as the chicken-hardboiled egg stew
called doro watt; the spicy steak tartare called kitfo; the
many
vegetarian stews: carrots
and cabbage, eggplant, and tomatoes; string beans and cauliflower; offers
some
less familiar dishes,
puree of spiced roasted
such as a whole fried
flax seeds;
Other recomnriendations
lentils, etc.
Zed
also
moderately spicy sauce, a
and a soul food-style mix of collard greens and beef.
Sauteed chicken
condiment of dried cottage cheese. Everything
Summary and comments
fish in
strips; bulgar
is
Zed Wondemu
wheat; spicy lamb stew; a
preservative-free. is
the
first
word
in
Washington's
334
Dining and Restaurants
Part Eight
Ethiopian establishments,
was the
first
in
both senses: Her original
made converts
of
many
local diners.
the sourdoughish pancake that
Meskerem
site,
Ethiopian establishment to break out of the
for
more
details)
Her cooking platter
is
and
is
several blocks to the west,
Adams-Morgan
utensil
and
alley
notable for the quality of
it
its injera,
one (see the entry for
in
and for the number of veggie dishes made with
oil
rather
than the traditional clarified butter, making them vegan-friendly.
***
ZOLA MODERN AMERICAN 800
F Street,
|
MODERATE
NW; (202)
|
QUALITY
•••
When
•••
|
ZONE
Metro
D
Service rating ***i/2 Friend-
Gallery Place/Chinatown, Navy Memorial/Archives/Penn
Quarter or Metro Center Parl
Street, pay lot, valet at dinner
Bar
selection Very good Dress Business, casual Disabled access
Wine
tomers
Open
Business/government, young
Monday-Friday,
I
downtown
Full
service
Good Cus-
trendies, media/sports types
1:30 a.m.-midnight; Saturday, 5 p.m.-midnight;Sunday,5-IO p.m.
Setting and atmosphere paying subtle tribute to
3
to go Pre-theatre or "event"; anytime Entree
range $l6-$25 Payment VISA, MC,AMEX, DC,
***
VALUE
654-0999
Reservations Recommended
liness rating
|
it
with
Museum
Playing off the adjacent International Spy its
name), Zola
is
filled
(and
with visual espionage jokes:
bits
of Cyrillic-language type and codes, declassified intelligence reports, "spy hole" portplus, hole windows, hush-hush-look red velvet booths, and film noir image blow-ups
—
as a hint, ostentatious
House
specialties
wine stations
the center of each dining room.
in
Grilled veal T-bone with wild
mushrooms and Madeira;
roasted duck breast with spring onion-pepper marmalade; lobster
almonds and mint; broiled jumbo prawns with spicy
harrisa,
roll
pan-
with toasted
green pea sticky rice and
caramelized Meyer lemon.
Other recommendations
Baked
littleneck clams
applewood bacon and pickled wild ramps and
mac
'n'
cheese" with lobster; chile-rubbed
peppers; cold-weather warmers such
dar fondue, or braised red snapper with
Summary and comments
grilled
as roast
two ways, with
garlic "krackle"; upscaled
Wagyu
kimichi and
"New
England
skirt steak with fried
sweet
lamb tabbouleh, smoked beer and Ched-
shellfish.
Chef Frank Morales worked
at
New York's
Union
Pacific
before moving to Washington, and though Zola doesn't have that kitchen's fusion accent, Morales does dip into the ethnic pantry from time to time to make a fresh point: Witness the siding of caramelized Meyer lemon and North African-style harissa pepper
sauce on the prawns; the lemongrass hollandaise with the crab and asparagus appetizer;
or the pungent ramps and fava beans with the teriyaki-glazed salmon. Zola's proximity to the
MCI Centre
as well as the Shakespeare
a big draw, and a three-course
bar
is
$28 menu
is
and other theaters makes early dinner here available
from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m.
a post-biz favorite as well, especially with D.C. government types.
Its
chic, sleek
a
Port Nine
Shopping in Washington
Mall Shopping It
should come
as
no
Washington, with one of the highest
surprise that
median household incomes
in the nation
and an increasingly
quite literally shop until
you drop
—
virtually mailed to death.
urday afternoons, roads leading to the shopping centers as
commuter
routes during rush hour.
The
—which
number-one
has
now
Tysons Corner,
—
in the "Specialty just
Sat-
outlet
complex
in
Dale
surpassed even Colonial Williamsburg as the
tourist attraction in Virginia
(see "Bargains"
On
are as congested
stretch of 1-95 south of
Washington around the Potomac Mills factory City
diverse
You can
population, offers a wide variety of shopping opportunities.
is
nearly always backed
Shops" section
west of the Beltway,
is
so large
later in it
this
up
part).
helped inspire one
of the catch phrases of 1990s development, the "edge
city."
Tysons
Siamese twin mall now, the original Tysons and the Galleria
at
is
a
Tysons
its own brewpub, appropriately named the Edge City BrewThe newer Leesburg Corner Premium Outlets on Route 7 west of Tysons Corner and the vast Arundel Mills, from the same folks who
II,
and has
ery.
brought you the jam
at
Potomac
Mills, are spreading the
name-brand
wealth around the region.
Suburban Malls Most of the smaller suburban malls are probably similar to what you have back home, with a few notable exceptions. One is The Fashion Centre (phone (703) 415-2400)
at
Pentagon City in Arlington, Virginia
beautiftil conservatory-style building filled retailers:
Crate and Barrel, the Wizards of the Coast, Mac/s, and
Nordstrom, the Seattle-based clothing and
—
with 160 primarily high-end
selection.
It
retailer
renowned
for
its
service
also opens onto the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, where you can
have a very refreshing, elegant meal or high
tea.
The Pentagon City
335
336
Part Nine
Metro
stop,
Shopping
on the blue
Washington
in
deposits shoppers right into the mall.
line,
The
(202) 686-5335), at the very north end
Chevy Chase Pavilion (phone
of the District of Columbia on the border of Maryland, has a somewhat similar look and such new "chain-boutique" stores as Gazelle (wearable art),
and Everett Hall, plus most
salon. Like
malls,
it
J.
Crew, Talbots, and a Georgette Klinger
has a food court, but
Coffee and a Cheesecake Factory.
It
is
it
also has a Starbucks
also directly accessible
by the
(the Friendship Heights station).
Metro
Catty-corner from the Pavilion
Mazza Gallerie (phone (202) 966Neiman Marcus, Saks for Men, House of Villeroy and Boch, Harriet is
6114), a slightly quieter mall with
Williams-Sonoma,
Kassman, and
Ann Taylor,
famed Boston discounter
a branch of the
Filene's Base-
ment. For emergencies, there is an American Express office on-site. White Flint Mall (phone (301) 468-5777), north of Washington, has a subway stop, although
continuous.
It
it's
also
a block or so away; shuttle bus service
houses Bloomingdale's,
Ann
&
Lord
Taylor,
is
Taylor,
Eurostyle Imports, the Limited, a Cheesecake Factory restaurant (which hands out silent "beepers" so you can keep shopping while waiting for a table), as well as a better-than-average food court and a huge, three-story Borders
& Music.
Books
Dave
reality sports/billiard/parlor/bar/restaurant
floor (see
There
is
its
profile in Part Ten:
also a European-style
from hairstyling sages,
and
Buster's, a vast virtual-
Entertainment and Nighdife, page 353).
day
Roxsan, which
spa,
to ornately painted (real or false) nails,
offers everything
mud
baths,
mas-
all-natural facials.
Montgomery Mall (phone access,
&
complex, dominates the top
(301) 469-6000), does not have subway
but for serious shoppers,
it's
only a ten-minute cab ride from
anchored by a Nordstrom, Sears, J.C. Penney and Hecht's, and includes A/X Armani Exchange, Eileen Fisher, J. Crew, Banana Republic, Evans fur salon, and Rosendorf. It also has a food
White
Flint.
It's
court with a full-sized Legal Seafood and a California Pizza Kitchen
and
a three-screen cineplex for bored kids.
(703) 893-9400; although
negotiations underway) offers nearly
including Nordstrom, ers,
Movado, Talbots
inton Redskins
Lord for
Tysons Corner (phone
does not yet have subway access there are
it
400 shops
in
two
large arcades,
& Taylor, Bloomingdale's, Brooks Broth-
Women,
official store.
Lacoste,
Max Mara,
(The "Corner"
and the Washup the neighborhood Fairfax Square (phone
fills
between Routes 7 and 123.) Just across the way is (703) 448-1830), a sort of mini-mall of superlabel shops
(see
"Designer
Clothing" in the "Specialty Shops" section) that whet your appetite for the platinum-card eateries such as Morton's of
guard white linen Ritz-Carlton Hotel.
Chicago and the
old-
Mall Shopping
Malls There
In
D.C. Georgetown Park (phone (202)
are fewer malls within city limits.
298-5577), near the intersection of
M
Street
and Wisconsin Avenue,
the most extravagant, featuring a lush Victorian design and
&
Abercrombie
retailers:
337
Fitch, Papillon, Crabtree
Taylor, J. Crew, Sharper Image, and the
is
some popular
&
Ann
Evelyn,
White House/Black Market,
ecru, or sable clothes and accessories. It Benihana Japanese steak house with sushi bar, the original Clyde's of Georgetown, and a food court. Two Washington landmarks have lately been reborn as shopping cen-
which stocks only cream, white, also includes a
ters:
Old Post
the
Union
Office Pavilion and
Station.
Pennsylvania Avenue just north of the Smithsonian, stocking up on souvenirs;
it
arts
building whose glory
arcade of shops, including ers
who
Hall,
arrive short
Ann Taylor
undiminished by
which has kiosks there's
more
and Nine West (handy
for travel-
The
a multiplex cinema.
And most
although
it's
tourists will
50
all
The
Station's
states), a
Pavilion
is
Metro stop
a couple of blocks
want
lowest level
and
a bustling
is
just outside the train track waiting areas.
is
America
(a restaurant that
couple of elevated-view bars,
very near the Federal Triangle
an escalator-ride down.
from the Metro Center
to look into the
It
food restaurant B. Smith's, a
Grill for Mexican,
claims to have dishes from
Union
a
two-story
New York neo-soul
branch of the
Uno, Thunder
stop;
is
its
selling one-of-a-kind jewelry, ethnic Russian
Pizzeria
Metro
the
Union
of clothes or shoes). Be sure to wander into the East
also has a
and
rivals
on Massachusetts Avenue,
is
Afrocentric crafts, and other merchandise.
food court, and
Pavilion, on
the place for
a fraction of the waiting line.
Station, the city's restored train station
grand beaux
is
tower with a view that
also has a
Washington Monument but with
The
Shops
at
stations,
National Place (F
SW, between 13th and 14th Streets; (202) 662-1250), which has Banana Republic, Victoria's Secret, and a couple of cafes. For free, you get to watch for political and media celebrities while you window shop; Street,
the building also houses the National Press Club.
Flea Markets Washington City
is,
but
is it
not a great
flea
markets for bargain-hunters least the
most
market town
is
way
New
that
York
likely to yield a fancy find,
is
the
NW), open
Sundays 9 a.m.
"Lonesome Dove" author Larry McMurty, who used
second-hand bookstore Jack" on the market.
in the
flea
The best or at Georgetown Flea Mar-
like grazing for goodies.
ket (Wisconsin Avenue and S Street, p.m.;
in the
does have a few dependable gatherings, and browsing
neighborhood, based
to
to 5
run a
his novel "Cadillac
338
Shopping
Part Nine
in
Washington
Other good spots include the Bethesda Flea Market (7155 Wisconsin Avenue in Bethesda), which is accessible by subway and open Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.; and the flea market at Eastern Market (Seventh Street between Pennsylvania Avenue and
North Carolina Avenue), which is also accessible by the subway and open Sunday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Both the Bethesda and Eastern Market gatherings have extra attractions; Bethesda sets up around the old Farm Women's Co-op, so there's usually good food, flowers and preserves inside;
and the Eastern Market hosts
most Saturdays
fair
as well.
a
neighborhood
crafts
and
street
(But use good judgement; in bad weather
the vendors stay home.)
Great Neighborhoods for Window-shopping If malls
made
make you
for
Washington has a number of neighborhoods
crazy,
window-shopping.
Georgetown In Georgetown, the
city's largest
walk-and-shop
and boutique,
ing stores, both franchise
district,
most of the
are centered along the
cloth-
two main
M Street and Wisconsin Avenue—notably. Commander Salaman-
drags,
der (1420 Wisconsin Avenue,
M
(3210
Street,
NW;
NW;
(202) 337-2265);
BCBG Max Azria
(202) 333-2224); Kate Spade (3061
M
Street,
NW;
M
Street, NW; (202) 965-0905); (202) 333-8302); Ralph Lauren (3222 Urban Chic (1626 WisNW; Street, 333-3005); Coach (3259 (202) Sixty/Energie Miss (1239 Wisconsin consin Avenue; (202) 538-5398);
M
Avenue; (202) 965-6430); the neo-preppy Sherman Pickey (1647 Wisconsin
Avenue,
NW;
(202) 333-4212); Zara (1234 Wisconsin Avenue,
NW;
(202) 944-9797); Sassanova (1641 Wisconsin Avenue, NW; (202) 4714400); Betsey Johnson (1319 Wisconsin Avenue, NW; (202) 338-4090); plus the
now
ubiquitous
H&M (3222 M tion of Wisconsin
Outfitters (3111
Adidas Originals
Banana Republic (phone
NW;
Street,
Avenue and
M
Street,
(202) 333-2554);
(202) 298-6792); Benetton
M Street (phone (202)
NW;
at the intersec-
625-0443); Urban
(202) 342-1012); and one of only five
retro-repro boutiques (1251 Wisconsin Avenue,
NW;
(202) 333-8962). Thanks to the crowds of teens and twentysomethings that
hang out on Georgetown's sidewalks on weekends, many of these keep late hours for impulse shopping. These are also the two main restaurant strips. Shops past
for antiques,
R Street,
the section
on "Antiques"
Georgetown kind
crafts
Avenue,
both formal and more offbeat, stretch up Wisconsin
interspersed with collections of artwork, books,
—
NW;
also has
and
shoes; see
in the "Specialty Shops" section, page 343.
more than
a few shops specializing in one-of-a-
Maurine Littleton (1667 Wisconsin (202) 333-9307); ceramics at American Studio Plus (2906
including art glass at
Great Neighborhoods for Window-shopping
339
M Street, NW; (202) 965-3274); antique garden ornaments and furniture at
Cole Jardin (3218
wooden
O
NW;
Street,
(202) 333-3067); and jewelry and
NW;
Appalachian Spring (1415 Wisconsin Avenue,
crafts at
(202) 337-5780).
A Mano
(1677 Wisconsin; (202) 298-7200)
lays
out
fine
French linens, faience, and majolica plates for the fanciest breakfast in
bed
ever.
For more traditional
old-line
gifts,
NW;
Caledonia (1419 Wisconsin Avenue,
Georgetowners prefer Little
(202) 333-4700).
a shop at 3300 M Street, M Street near the Key Bridge park, in an
Thos. Moser Cabinetmakers has opened
NW,
(202) 338-4292, and off
33rd
alley at
Street, the
end furnishings
Relish, luxury bath floors
Cady Alley complex
fitters,
holds a
such
stores, clothing boutiques,
number of high-
as the
designer-heavy
kitchen specialists, and even antique marble
from the Holy Land. But the
specialty collector fascinated
by
late
nineteenth- and early twentieth-century decorative arts will find a paradise
on
M Street; see "Decorative Arts," page 347.
Adams-Morgan and U Street Historically, Adams-Morgan and U Street hood,
as
it's
known now) had
little
"new-U" neighbor-
(or the
connection.
Adams-Morgan
a wealthy white residential area adjoining the still-exclusive
began, as
Kalorama
but, with "white flight" to the suburbs after the unrest of the 1960s,
emerged
as the heart
Over the
past 15 or
and dining
of the Hispanic and then Ethiopian communities.
20
years,
area, especially
it
has developed into an eclectic nightlife
along 18th Street.
U
Street,
though
at the
north end of the Shaw neighborhood, was the closest thing Washington
had
to a
Harlem, thanks to
its
the riots,
it
and vaudeville venues
national-circuit jazz
and the proximity of Howard
University.
An
even more direct victim of
had sadly deteriorated and only began
to revive a decade ago,
thanks partly to some timely government investment and partly to a
wave of young couples willing as restaurants
and small
to invest in renovating the old
townhouses
businesses.
In recent years, these two ethnically heterogenous areas have increasingly popular with younger, hip,
even more encouraging developments center for small theaters and of the
U
U
—
the emergence of 1 4th Street as a
opening of
Street for nightclubs; the
Street-Cardozo subway station; and the commercial ripple effects
from the construction of the arena and the
and pedestrian
entrepeneurial habituees, intriguing
MCI
Center sports and entertainment
new Convention Center
area's visibility
traffic
to the south
even more.
Adams-Morgan and
window-shopping destinations
—have
And
U
increased that
thanks to their hip,
Street are
becoming
as well.
Although the two neighborhoods have not completely met dle,
become
and international crowds. Three
in the
mid-
they are beginning to send out tendrils of development toward one
another. (However, the area can
still
be somewhat edgy
late at night.)
340
Shopping
Part Nine
Washington
in
Among the best and brightest clothing boutiques ple grazing center
Kaur Three (2102 18th
are the designer
Street,
NW;
sam-
(202) 299-
0404), and the self-described "girlie" shop, Daisy (1814 Adams Mill Road, NW; (202) 797-1777), haute-accessory central. A few doors up is
AU About
Jane (2438 18th
Street; (202)
797-9710), stocking T-shirts
for the too-too trendy.
In between Adams-Morgan's melting pot of restaurants (and
and expensive antique
serious
stores)
Rasta) clothing stores
and
dresses, religious icons,
and perhaps
craft boutiques, racks
For architectural remnants chandeliers, door handles,
NW;
—
(2311 18th
Street,
a parking lot
its
quite
and Hispanic (and
of Mexican wedding
a medicinal herb or two.
mantels, stained or leaded glass windows,
and columns
—check out
(202) 332-3370); the Brass
Warehouse
0587), which
are African
away (2329 Champlain
the Brass Knob Knob Backdoors
Street,
NW;
holds the clawfoot tubs, radiators, and sinks;
vative furnishings at the four-story
Skynear
&
(202) 265-
and the inno-
Co. (2122 18th
Street,
NW; (202) 797-7160), which stocks hand-painted pillows, repro armoires and red China cabinets, whimsical wrought iron, acrobatic light fixtures,
And
and the although
(181 1-B 18th
(The Gen-X, smart-set
like.
a
it's
it
chopsticks, and even
Four blocks
east
in the basement.)
Home
(202) 986-8607) is anything but the subursounds; it's a Thai famly business, and the direct
Bangkok-to-D.C. wares include ics,
is
NW;
Street,
ban catalogue shop
stuff
south of the main drag. Simply
little
throws,
silk
bamboo
rice bowls,
ceram-
cabinets.
of Simply
Home
are
Home
Rule (1807 l4th
Street,
NW; (202) 797-5544), one of those shops that has figured out that home accessories don't have to be humorless; Vastu (1829 l4th Street, NW; (202) 234-8344), a gallery of limited-edition furniture; Go Mama Go! (1809 14th
Street,
NW;
(202) 299-0850), which stocks smaller-
scale but eye-catching ethnically-flavored furnishings perfect for the chic
dorm room, condo,
or
loft;
and Muleh (1831 l4th
Street,
NW;
(202)
S67 -3440), stocked with eco-friendly furnishings from Indonesia and the Phillipines. A block north, McKay's Antiques (1902 l4th Street,
NW;
&
(202) 265-4345) tends to focus on the small accents, while Ruff Street, NW; (202) 667-7833) is a more old-fashioned
Ready (1908 l4th
neighborhood antique
store,
which
also offers increasingly desirable gar-
den antiques.
The
heaviest concentration of stores along
and 13th (1330
U Street, NW;
in cool: a ers,
Streets, near the
Street
is
between 16th
Urban
(202) 299-0640) puts the emphasis
Essentials
on "urban,"
as
soft-drink-machine-turned-CD rack, modular storage contain-
mod-design home
Street,
U
entrance to the subway
NW;
office pieces, etc.
Good Wood
Inc. (1428
U
(202) 986-3640), on the other hand, says "country" special-
Great Neighborhoods for Window-shopping izing in nineteenth-century Anerican furniture, including arts
and
341
crafts,
andirons, and stained glass, but at Sunday auction prices.
U Street, NW;
Habitat (1510
and
ican crafts
(1517
U
The
jewels.
NW;
Street,
The
and
collectibles at
(202) 238-0404) aren't faux-weathered (and aren't
generally "weathered" at ern.
MexWeathered Classics
(202) 518-7222) deals in primarily
gifts
all)
but a mix of old and new, Mission and mod-
African and African-American decorative arts and accessories,
and ceremonial items
sculpture,
(202) 232-2214), like
many
at
Zawadi Gallery (1524
that range
from the
U Street, NW;
and expensive
fine
to the
simply attractive and affordable. Millennium Decorative Arts (1528 Street,
NW;
(202) 483-1218)
one of
is
new-U, mixing Waring blenders and fondue pots with the
eateries) in
retro stuff such as
Eames
and
chairs
U
several retro-kitsch shops (and real
a Saarinen pedestal table.
Fans of vintage clothing and accessories in the 1950s-1970s range
should cruise the three stories Street
NW;
at
Meep's and Aunt Neensie's (1520
U
(202) 265-6546). Vintage accessory addicts should head for
Nana (1534 U Street NW; (202) 667-6955); and Wild Women Wear Red specializes in what it calls "fiinky, functional footwear for women," well-made shoes, sandals, and boots
striking but
(1512
U Street NW;
Note than some of the shops only on weekends or toward the
Dupont Dupont
in the
U
neighborhood
Street
latter part
are
open
full
of art
of the week.
Circle
Circle
for shoppers looking to enrich the
is
galleries, espresso bars,
Most of these
are
erally clustered
Avenue
at affordable prices
(202) 387-5700).
on the north
R Street
along
(leading
and bookstores
mind
(see "Specialty
side of the circle:
The
two blocks
just
in the
—
it's
Shops," page 343).
art galleries are
gen-
west of Connecticut
you gently toward the Phillips Collection). The Chao
Phraya Gallery (2009 Columbia Road, a half-block east of Connecticut Avenue; (202) 745-1 1 1 1), showing Chinese and Southeast Asian art and antiques,
is
a few blocks north.
West of the
circle
Gallery (1730 21st
American and Mission, and
near the Phillips Collection Street,
British arts
NW; and
crafts furniture,
Deco and Nouveau
(202) 745-7272) offers African
is
the Geoffrey
Diner
(202) 483-5005), which specializes in
pieces. Affirica
textiles,
including Stickley and
(2010^2
R Street, NW;
masks, figurines, and currency.
Marston-Luce (1314 21st Street, NW; (202) 333-6800) is a Francophile's dream, but open by appointment only. (Their Georgetown store at 1651 Wisconsin Avenue is open to the public.) South of the circle, on Connecticut Avenue, NW, between N and K Streets, are
Hugo
high-end
retailers
such
as
Ralph Lauren Polo; Burberry;
Boss; Betsy Fisher; Rizik's, a prominent local women's shop; and
342
Shopping
Part Nine
Washington
in
Pampillonia Jewelers, which
There
and
just over at 18th
10th
and L
and
is
estate pieces.
shop called the Tiny Jewel Box, and
Alan Marcus
& Co.
(1200 18th
Street,
NW,
331-0671), which discounts big name watches, pens,
floor; (202)
crystal,
M
and
specializes in antique
also a fine estate jewelry
is
And
silver.
Streets, (202)
for designer pieces, look into I.
Gorman
at
20th
775-8544.
Chevy Chase At the northwest edge of D.C., where
it
Montgomery
blends into
County, Maryland, well-heeled shoppers love the stretch of Wisconsin
Avenue from about Jenifer Street to Park Avenue. With two malls Mazza Gallerie and Chevy Chase Pavilion and lots of freestanding boutiques, there is much browsing and spending to do. Among the shops
—
are
Neiman Marcus, Gazelle Limited (a great spot for wearable art), Bam, Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue, Saks-Jandel and
Pottery
Rosendorf-Evans
furriers.
There
are also jewelry
and antique shops.
Bethesda Bethesda, Maryland, which
is
just
beyond Chevy Chase, has become not
only one of the major restaurant centers in the Washington area but also
and antiques, books, tobacconists, vintage and consignment clothing (which, in an area as prosperous as this, means everything from faux pearls to furs), and trendy home furnishings. a
magnet
area for fine rugs, art
Urban Country (7801 Woodmont Avenue; (301) 654-0500) is crammed with painted, faux-distressed, and gilded fijrniture, desktop accessories, ceramics, linens, glass,
and
flatware; they also
custom-uphol-
ster. But these days, the Bethesda boomers, like those in Adams-Morgan, are generally looking East. Just down the street from Urban Country, is
the San Francisco-based
Design Within Reach (4828
Bethesda; (301) 215-7200).
Central Asia. Ancient
mont Avenue;
(4731
and
Elm
Rhythms,
about two blocks away (7920
and Indonesian) and African-style
accessories of
Street; (301)
antiques from
wood,
941-1174)
Africa, Southeast Asia,
art paper,
from
Wood-
offers
furniture, jewelry,
and metalwork. Muleh
both
and reproduction
real
and the Middle
East.
Furnishings (4715 Cordell Avenue; (301) 656-0400) from-the-Thai-in-laws operation. Pasha (301) 657-1 120) jewelry.
Elmo Avenue,
(301) 652-2669), specializes in Southeast Asian (particu-
larly Phillipine
tapestry,
St.
Tribal Arts, selling decorative pieces
sells
Home
is
Asian
Home
another direct-
Fashion (4865 Cordell;
Indonesian mahogany, Italian leather and Peruvian
BartleyTile Concepts (6931 Arlington Road; (301) 913-9113)
tiles, marble, and slate, both new and salvaged. Lomay-Schnitzel Antiques (6826 Wisconsin Avenue; (301) 656-191 1)
sells
is
hand-painted
an old and respected source of English, French, and continental pieces,
both original and fine reproduction.
Specialty Shops
Among art galleries are Allyson
343
Louis (7200 Wisconsin Avenue; (301)
656-2877), Capricorn Galleries (10236 River Road; (301) 765-5900),
and Marin-Price (7022 Wisconsin Avenue; (301) 718-0622). Particuone might almost say on exhibit at the larly fine art glass is available
—
Glass Gallery (4720
and matches
Lane; (301) 657-3478).
and ceramics with
glass
art
—
Hampden
ZYZYX
mixes
production pieces
better
(10301-A Old Georgetown Road; (301) 493-0297).
Capitol
On
Hill
Capitol Hill most shops are in the vicinity of Eastern
where vendors
actual market
and
flea
market bric-a-brac
up
set
—
tables selling produce,
located
on Seventh
Street
Market
—an
baked goods,
between Pennsyl-
vania and Independence Avenues, SE. There, amid the restaurants and bars, are
secondhand clothing shops and
first-rate crafts stores.
on Eighth
the old Eastern Market building
just
Around
north of Pennsylvania
Avenue, you can browse through a variety of antiques stores and boutiques, as well as farmers'
produce and fresh poultry stands. There's a pot-
tery co-op upstairs at the
Market
itself
Old Town Alexandria Old Town Alexandria, tered up, crafts,
Virginia,
and home
South Royal
furnishings.
Street; (703)
pottery, tools,
a walker's delight, too, with shops clusStreet,
Wayne
836-6043)
most of them
Street; (703)
is
charming old
toys,
as well as furniture.
This
specializes in
spotlighted at Egerton
548-8820), the
Random Harvest
Street; (703)
(810 King
Old Colony Shop (222-B South Washing-
ton Street; (703) 548-8008), and Robert Bentley
Washington
Gardens (1117
548-1197).
Other good poking-around spots include Street; (703)
selling antiques,
Fisher American Design (114
and painted wood ornaments
trendy indoor-outdoor look
King
is
down, and around King
Adams
(405 South
549-0650).
Specialty Shops Antiques Serious antique-seekers get out of
town
—
driving an hour or
more
to the
countryside of Maryland, Virginia, West Virginia, or Pennsylvania for the bargains. Frederick, Maryland, about an particularly popular with area antiquers.
125-dealer
Emporium Antiques
ures
it
will turn
—though few
bargains
centration of such shops
is
biggest single group
(112 East Patrick
(301) 662-7099), though walking the streets just off
hour north of Washington,
The
Main
Street
Street,
is
is
at the
Frederick;
neighborhood and the
up plenty of others. But you will find treasin and around Washington. The largest con-
—
on "Antique Row"
in Kensington,
Maryland,
344
Shopping
Part Nine
in
Washington
about four miles from the D.C.
line.
There
are
more than 50 antique
on Howard Avenue, with smaller shops
dealers
Avenue and
larger
Howard Avenue;
east
of Connecticut
warehouses west of Connecticut. Sparrows (4115
(301) 530-0175) specializes in late eighteenth- to early
nineteenth-century French and French Revival pieces, including fine
Deco and Nouveau. clocks,
urines,
Paris- Kensington specializes in smaller bronze fig-
and porcelain. Desbois Antiques de France
silver,
(4080B Howard Avenue; (301) 897-9560) take the formal approach, as does Huret Antiques (4106 Howard Avenue; (301) 530-7551), which helpfully explains its periods, rules, epochs, and styles for less practiced customers. J'antiques (10429 Fawcett Street; (301) 942-0936) offers
and Limoges. Not
ver flatware
and
ingly, there's
even a restaurant called Cafe Monet.
filigree, fine estate jewelry,
Georgetown and Alexandria,
In
from the past three
collectibles
you'll find a variety
consin Avenue,
NW;
David
(202) 965-2355); and Miller
Bell Antiques (1655 Wisconsin Avenue;
& Arney (1737 Wisconsin Avenue;
One Georgetown
favorite
Shop (1427 Wisconsin Avenue, second
(in
(202) 625-1776); Space (1625 Wisconsin Avenue,
(202) 333-0140);
338-2369).
of shops selling
Georgetown's best
Gore-Dean Antiques (1529 Wis-
geographically ascending order) are
NW;
Among
centuries.
sil-
surpris-
NW;
(202)
Christ Child Opportunity
is
(202) 333-6635), where,
floor, you'll find silver, china, paintings,
on
the
and other cherishables on
consignment from the best Georgetown homes. (See the neighborhood profiles earlier in this part.)
The
best antiques in Alexandria are in
Old Town
along Washington
4000 block of King Street: Check out Studio Antiques Fine Art (524 North Washington Street; (703) 548-5253), and Washington Square Antiques (689 South Washington Street; (703) 8363214). The Thieves' Market in Alexandria (8101 Richmond Highway; Street
and
in the
&
(703) 360-4200) has scores of booths with good used rugs, antique furniture,
and
jewelry.
Art
One
of the
city's
— of —can be found around Dupont of Connecticut Avenue and R of R — each
most concentrated
traditional,
art for sale
selection
modern, photographic, and ethnic
The
best are centered
Street
and spread
on
a sort
Circle.
crossroads
a couple of blocks in
around 20th and 21st
Streets,
direction
where there
blocks. Gallery openings are generally
on
are a
the
However, a renaissance of independent
dozen
first
artists
especially
galleries
Friday of the month.
and co-ops has made the
Seventh Street area just north of Pennsylvania Avenue the
Among
NW;
Street
within two
SoHo
of D.C.
the important stops are the Zenith Gallery (413 Seventh Street,
(202) 783-2963), which specializes in photography,
new
art,
and
— Specialty Shops
Co-op (406 Seventh
neon; the Touchstone
Street,
NW;
2787); and the Lansburg Building (406 Seventh Street,
department store that has been transformed into
345
(202) 347-
NW),
a
former
a three-story assortment
of art and photography spaces. The Seventh Street neighborhood opens every third Thursday of the
dozen shops; meet enth
Street,
NW;
for a free gallery crawl that covers a
lobby of the Goethe-Institut (812 Sev-
(202) 289-1200) at 6:30 p.m.
Similarly, the art galleries late
month
at the in the
of Canal Square in Georgetown stay open
every third Friday, with jazz and hors d'oeuvres and wine for patrons.
for art is the Torpedo Factory Art Center in Old Town Alexandria (105 North Union Street; (703) 838-4565), where painting, sculpture, jewelry, and more 1 50 artists in a range of media have set up studios. You can buy their work, or simply watch them create. For the gallery-cafe tours of Old Town, which are on the second Thursday of each month, gather at Gallery West at 205 South Union
Another popular source
—
Street; (703)
549-7359.
Bargains Washington may have
and pricey
rants,
its
million-dollar houses, expense-account restau-
private schools, but
it
also has a surprising
discount outlets. Savvy shoppers never pay bags, their
Lancome
cosmetics, or their Polo dress shirts.
Nowadays, even the
relatively affluent
D.C. area
name, bargain-price supermalls. To the south Dale
City,
VA
numbet of Coach
full price for their
—one of
the world's largest
is
is
surrounded by big-
Potomac Mills Mall
in
outlet malls. Just 45 minutes
south of D.C, off 1-95, this 250-store mall (phone (800) VA-MILLS) gets
more
visitors
each year than any other Virginia tourist attraction nearly impossible to hit
—
even
of the
more than Colonial Williamsburg. It's which include the popular IKEA (Swedish furniture store) and outlets for Nordstrom, Eddie Bauer, Guess, Ann Taylor, Saks Off Fifth, Gap, Polo, Athlete's Foot, Brooks Brothers, and Benetton. all
stores,
To
the west, perhaps
malls at
1
5 or
20 minutes past the various Tysons Corner
the intersection of Route 7 and the Route 15 Bypass,
burg Comer Premium
Outlets (241 Fort Evans Road,
is
NE;
the Lees-
(703) 737-
3071), a closet-heavy complex whose more famous designer names include
Ellis,
Bebe, Cole Haan, Geoffrey Beene, Tommy Ralph Lauren, Kenneth Cole, Greg Norman, Perry
BCBG Max Aria,
Hilfiger, Polo
Kasper and Liz Claiborne, along with Jones
New York,
Barneys,
Saks Off Fifth, Burberr/s, Movado, and Seiko. And northeast of town, off the Baltimore- Washington Parkway or
Route 110
east
of 1-95,
is
Arundel Mills (7000 Arundel Mills
Hanover, Maryland; (410) 540-5100). More than a million square
name brands
that echo the other
two but trump them with
Circle, feet
of
a 24-theater
346
Shopping
Part Nine
in
Washington
at and a full-sized Bass Pro Shops Outdoor World, where you can exhaust them on the rock climbing wall. If you can't make it to the suburbs except by Metro, Washington now
cinema you can park the kids
has
its first
inside-the-Beltway off-price mall, City Place in Silver Spring,
Maryland (phone (301) 589-1091). At the intersection of Colesville Road (Route 29) and Fenton Street, three blocks north of the Silver Spring Metro (red line). City Place's best assets are Nordstrom Rack, Marshalls, and
its
shoe outlets.
Bookstores It's little
are well read: almost everywhere
wonder Washingtonians
look, there
is
a bookstore.
There
are general-interest chains like B. are small independents,
ton and Borders, but the majority narrow
Dupont
Streets, are
and
some of
NW,
Connecticut Avenue between S and
just off
the
city's
toward Dupont Circle,
NW;
you'll hit the
Newsroom, with an
periodicals
(1803 Connecticut
Lambda
(202) 332-1489);
NW;
shop (1625 Connecticut Avenue, books, a bookstore and
on P
for
Street you'll find
used books (2000 P
Rising, a gay/lesbian book-
(202) 462-6969); and
cafe that's quite the scene
open 24 hours (1517 Connecticut Avenue, off the circle
I
best bookstores. Walking south from S
exhaustive stock of foreign-language
Avenue,
line to
Circle or the orange line to Farragut West. Between these two
stops, along
Street,
many with
literature, or mystery.
such as art, travel, book-browsing mood, you might take the red
specialties
If you're in a
Metro
Russian
you Dal-
it's
(202) 387-1400). Right
Second Story Books,
NW;
Street,
NW;
Kramer-
on weekends, when
a terrific source
(202) 659-8884); and Backstage,
and performing arts books (545 8th Street, SE; (202) 544_5744). Down side streets you can seek out Olsson's Books and Records, the city's most beloved general-interest book source, with a
which
sells scripts
selective
but broad inventory (1307 19th
One
of the Books-a-Million
New
Hampshire Avenue and P
319-1374);
it
bestsellers at
30 percent off
Bader (19111
I
Street,
also
NW;
(202) 785-1133).
on Dupont
Circle between
about one o'clock (phone (202)
New
York Times hsLvd- and paperback
retail price.
you'll find
NW; Street, NW;
volumes on the
(202) 337-5440);
Street,
Store (1636
is
Street at
discounts the current
Over by Farragut West
Map
stores
visual arts at
travel guides at
(202) 628-2608); and
The
Franz
ADC
literary criticism,
biography, poetry, and a good general stock, as well as frequent Saturday at
Chapters (445
a fairly large
Borders on L
afternoon readings
There
is
1
1th Street,
overwhelming
as the flagship store in
decker Barnes
and Noble
Washington
area, in
store,
Georgetown
White
one of at
NW;
(202) 347-5495).
Street at 19th Street,
though not
several recently
M and 21st Streets.
as
and a
three-
opened
in the
Flint Mall;
— Specialty Shops
And
even Washingtonians tend to overlook the
347
Government Printing
Office Bookstore, which carries more than 15,000 books, pamphlets,
and
CD-ROMs
real
things
as well as
— from
books of photographs
the Library of Congress (710
—and sometimes North Capitol
the
Street;
(202)512-0132).
Another
specialty bookstore can be
Prose specializes
in psychology, politics,
and hosts many of their book-signing
NW;
And
(202) 364-1919).
Shops
at
on ConnectiChevy Chase. Politics &
farther north
as
and the works of local authors
parties
although
Mount Vernon claim
it's
(5015 Connecticut Avenue, not widely advertised the
to have the largest bookstore in the
George Washington
try dedicated to
found
known
cut Avenue, in the neighborhood
(see
"Museum
coun-
Shops," below).
Decorative Arts
The south
side of
Georgetown
M
Street
between 28th and 30th
offers a staggering array
ticularly rich in
Art Deco, Art Nouveau, and Moderne pieces.
Lareuse (2820 Pennsylvania Avenue; (202) 333-5704) that specializes in twentieth-century prints
Miro,
etc.
pewter and
silver,
of them attributed, from Liberty
and
fine Victorian rings
and lithographs by
glass,
arts
and
and ceramic crafts
NW;
earrings, enamel, intaglio,
and even
Grafix (2904
M
Street,
NW;
collectible prints
still-lifes,
art as well as fine furni-
(202) 342-0610)
sells
vintage posters-
and
illustration plates.
A
partitioned townhouse at
M Street, NW, features Michael Getz (phone (202) 338-3811) and
Cherub Gallery (phone artists
(202) 337-2224) and gathers a collection of
and studios
as Tiffany, Lalique,
Daum, and
Here you can find heavy wrought andirons, ivory-handled magnifying shakers,
glasses,
cream pitchers and perfume
nymphic candelabra, and ornate photo
the largest collection of silver napkin
Lipert (2922 silver,
M (2900 M
Nouveau and Deco examples, antique hand-tinted maps,
works by such
is
plus
artists;
Bakelite.
(202) 338-7710), displaying floral paintings and
including Art
2918
Picasso,
vases, the majority
and Nouveau
handpainted furniture, tapestry cushions, and folk
and
Galerie
a fine art gallery
is
Janis Aldridge, Inc. swings around the corner of 29th and
ture.
The
in
par-
arts,
At Justine Mehlman (2824 Pennsylvania Avenue; (202) 337-
0613), you'll find
Street,
NW,
Streets,
of antiques and decorative
but
its
M
Street,
emphasis
NW;
is
Icart.
fish services
and
bottles, elegant cocktail
frames. In the back
rings outside a melting pot.
(202) 965-9736) also displays
room Keith
art, glass,
on enamelware, ceramics, and heavier
and
pieces.
Designer Clothing In the free-spending 1980s, couture clothiers couldn't
open shops
fast
While the 1980s may be gone, most of a row of chic the boutiques remain. And most are in "Gucci Gulch"
enough
in the
Washington
area.
—
348
Shopping
Part Nine
in
Washington
shops extending from the 5200 to 5500 blocks of Wisconsin Avenue,
from the upper edge of the County, Maryland.
District of
Among
Columbia
Montgomery
right into
Hugo
the boutiques: Saks Jandel,
Boss,
Sylene, Relish, Georgette Klinger, Elizabeth Arden, Cartier, Saks Fifth
Avenue, Relish, Versace, Harriet Kassman, Joan and David, and Gianfranco Ferre. Also note the estate jewelry and
silver at
Heller Jewelers.
Virginia, too offers designer wares. Here, the gold-card
crowd heads
Fairfax Square, a mall on Leesburg Pike in Tysons Corner that to Tiffany
to
home
& Company, Gucci, Hermes, and Louis Vuitton.
In the District proper, the grand old Willard Hotel
NW,
Avenue,
is
houses a
set
on Pennsylvania
of shops that includes Chanel.
Or
try Rizik's
of Connecticut Avenue and L Street for establishment-
at the corner
women's couture.
Shops
Insider
Although the White House, the House of Representatives, and even
Camp
David have monogrammed and souvenir merchandise, it's availwho want to look like Washington
able only to special staff Outsiders insiders
The
do have a few options, however.
NASA Exchange gift shop
for astronaut
wannabes.
It is
E
(300
Street,
open Monday
SW;
(202) 358-0162)
to Friday, 8:15 a.m. to 4
is
p.m
(closed during lunch, 1-2 p.m.).
A different sort of insider store necticut Avenue,
NW;
is
the
Counter Spy Shop (1027 Con-
(202) 887-1717), which has tiny cameras, bug-
ging and taping trackers, night vision scopes, and protective clothing. Just look mysterious.
Museum Shops Some of Washington's museum's orientation
and
art
books
fill
greatest finds are in
is
a
good guide
to
its
its
museum
gift
shops.
shop's merchandise
the National Gallery of Art shop;
model
—
A
prints
and
airplanes
and Space Museum. The largest Museum of American History, which sells
other toys of flight are on sale at the Air
Smithsonian shops are toys, clothing,
hghted in the
exhibits;
ing the collection.
—
of
at the
at the
musical instruments, and recordings from countries high-
although
And
International
which stock video and
all
the
the hippest
museums have some gifts
Spy Museum
are currently
store
items reflect-
on view
—
sort
(phone (202) 654-0950),
CD copies of old spy TV shows and themes, pens
disguised as lipsticks, disguises for people
Some good museum
and miniature cameras.
shops are often overlooked by
Museum
tourists.
The
shop (phone (202) 272-2448), which
sells
design-related books, jewelry, architecturally-inspired greeting cards,
and
National Building
gadgets; the Arts
and Industries shop (phone
(202) 357-2700), a pretty,
Victorian setting stocked with Smithsonian reproductions; the Depart-
Specialty Shops
ment of
the Interior
4056), which
sells
Museum's Indian Craft Shop (phone
museum and
one-of-a-kind creations at the
town Park Mall; the National 633-4600), a bazaar
Museum
349
(202) 208in
George-
of African Art shop (phone (202)
with colorful cloth, Ethiopian crosses, and
filled
wooden ceremonial instruments such
as
hand drums and tambourines; the
Arthur M. Sackler Gallery shop (phone (202) 633-4880), with cases fiill of brass Buddhas, Chinese lacquerware, jade and jasper jewelry, feng shui
Renwick
Gallery, which stocks unusual art jew-
kits,
and
elry;
the Shakespeare-lovers' treasure trove at the Folger Library (phone
porcelain; the
(202) 544-4600); and the newly expanded shop at the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts (phone (202) 467-4600), stocked with videos, opera glasses,
and other
gifts for
The Millwood Museum (phone
performing-arts lovers.
(202) 686-8510) has jewelry and
ornaments inspired by Marjorie Merriweather Faberge and Russian porcelains.
Post's
famous collection of
The Stephen Decatur House Museum
(phone (202) 842-1856) has patriotic souvenirs emphasizing American history and architecture, and the expanded shop at Mount Vernon
(phone (703) 799-6301)
of Marthas cookbook,
offers reproductions
George's key to the Bastille, and period china and silver patterns.
Oriental Rugs Washington, D.C.
offers the broadest selection
available in the United States. In fact, there
that prices are
quality in greater
is
of handmade oriental rugs so
much
forced below what you would expect
other American cities. Though shops
Washington
to
comparable
around the is
to Bethesda.
Memorabilia
ing political
no doubt you already know about stores sellletters and photos, and
buttons and ribbons, autographed
commemorative as
all
area, the biggest concentration of reputable stores
If you're a serious collector,
be
for
are sprinkled
located on Wisconsin Avenue from Friendship Heights
Political
competition here
pay
plates
and pens.
fun to browse through
as
If you're
not a
collector, these
museums, except
that
shops can
you can touch
buy them, and take them home. Two such shops, within walking Coin and Stamp 1 70 1 L Street, NW; (202) 296-0400) and Political Americana (1331 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW; (202) 737-7730), which also has a branch inside Union things,
distance of one another, are Capitol
Station.
NW;
The Honest Abe Souvenir Company
(202) 347-1021) has
all
sorts
(
(F
and Tenth
Martin Luther King to D.C. snow globes and Georgetown Prints
T-shirts.
and Photography
Although most dealers prominent
NW,
Streets,
of Washingtonia, from tiny busts of
is
in fine
Suite 200; (202)
photos are in Georgetown, one of the most
Ewing Gallery (1609 Connecticut Avenue, 328-0955). Otherwise, visit the Robert Brown
the Kathleen
350
Shopping
Part Nine
R
GaUery (2030
Street,
(1516 31st
Street,
(1227 34th
Street,
NW; NW;
graphs of and by rock Stu
turned-artist
Washington
in
NW;
(202) 483-4383); the Ralls Collection
(202) 342-1754); and the
Govinda Gallery
(202) 333-1180), which specializes in photo-
'n' rollers,
from Annie Leibovitz to onetime Beatle-
and
Sutcliffe
photographer
his
girlfriend
Astrid
Georgetown Gallery of Art (3235 P Street, NW; (202) 333-6308), Hemphill Fine Arts (1027 33rd Street, NW; (202) 342-5610), and the Spectrum Gallery Kirchherr. For prints
(1132 29th
and works on paper,
NW;
Street,
(202) 333-0954). For antique maps, botanical
and vintage cartoons,
prints,
town (1220 31st
Street,
the
visit
try the
NW;
Old
Print Gallery, also in George-
(202) 965-1818).
Salon Products Although
it
tators, for
the
seems
as if every
good
spa/salon/store
mall
now has
stuff think about
a
Body Shop and
—no
—and scented with
testing
almond tle,
Soaps, bath
oils.
NW;
(202)
oils, all
made
around the corner (1325 Wisconsin Avenue,
965-1325), offering body products from toners to massage
of only plant products
not to mention
artificial scents
or coloring and no animal
the likes of rosemary, cinnamon, sesame, and
salts,
and
facials, scrubs,
tych" of cosmetic stores
several imi-
Georgetown: Aveda has a huge new
on
M
oils are available
by the ounce or bot-
and massages. There's
Street, starting
sort
of a
"trip-
with the very hot French
chain Sephora, where you can try on nearly a hundred brands of lipstick
(3065
M
338-5644);
Street; (202)
MAC
944-9771); and Blue Mercury (3059
both a spa and a Merle
custom creams, exotic
Norman
oils,
and
M
(3067
Street,
M
NW;
Street,
Street,
NW;
all
(202) is
new millennium, stocked with named for film stars. And across
for the
lipsticks
the street are the Provencal-based L'Occitane (3106
(202) 337-6001) and the
NW;
(202) 965-1300)
organic London-based
M
Street,
NW;
Lush (3066
M
(202) 333-6950).
Watches Alan Marcus
& Co., which offers
50 percent off on Rolex, Patek Philippe, and
Carrier, plus Lalique
Washington's answer to Tourneau
up
to
and Baccarat floor; (202)
crystal,
is
and Montblanc pens (1200 18th
Street,
NW,
fifth
331-0671).
Wine and Gourmet Foods Georgetown has a branch of New
York's
joined forces with the Sutton Place
& Deluca (3276 Mayflower Wines
famed Dean
M Street, NW; (202) 342-2500), complete with
cafe.
Gourmet shops
in
1992
to provide
one-stop, fine-food shops in the greater Washington area. Each shop offers
an excellent selection of wines and an impressive variety of gour-
met and ethnic
foods.
The wine
buyers travel abroad each year to select
Specialty Shops
351
the stores' wine inventory and are particularly tuned in to Italian reds. Visitors to the stores
from outside the
can buy wine and have in person, the
it
District, Virginia,
shipped home.
If you
To
Another
town.
shop
a newsletter describing
The
newsletter also includes
receive the free newsletter call (301) fine
strong catalog,
NW;
to
Sutton Place Gourmet publishes
highly touted (and reasonably priced) wines. recipes.
and Maryland
do not have time
wine is
store,
which
invests in
564-3100.
wine
fiitures
and
offers a
MacArthur Liquors (4877 MacArthur Boulevard,
(202) 338-1433) in the Palisades neighborhood west of GeorgeIt's
sumption
worth remembering that because of is
less
stores just over the border in
the well-liked purveyor "Bassin's"
tax laws,
wine
for con-
expensive in stores like this within the District than in
by Washington
Maryland or
Addy
Virginia. Originally
MacArthur
Bassin,
is
still
owned by
often called
natives.
Writing Implements Fahrney's Pens (1317 F Street, stuff:
NW;
(202) 628-9525) has
all
the write
For more than 70 years, Fahrney's has sold nothing but beautiful
pens, including
Watermans and Mont
Blancs.
White
Flint
Mall has a
smaller shop but one well versed in the instant unblocking of recalcitrant
fountain pens, Bertram's Inkwell (phone (202) 342-9030).
Part Ten
Entertainment
and Nightlife
Washington
Nightlife:
More Than
Lit-up
Monuments
Washington after-hours used set its
to
be an oxymoron. Public transportation
come
clock by the bureaucracy, commuters had too far to go (and
back the next morning) to stay out
late,
and big expense account money
was lavished on restaurants and buddy suffered
ftom a persistent
ning to buy
bars. Besides,
cultural inferiority
companies while not-so-
tickets to see touring theatrical
benignly neglecting
homegrown
Washingtonians
complex that had them run-
troupes.
Nowadays, though, the joke about "Washington after-hours" being an
oxymoron
is
around,
that there's too
it's
just that: a joke.
It's
not that
too
there's
and every one of these groups
grate, their
own
circles.
means you can dabble
The
fact that
in a litde
is
trying to create,
many
overlap,
opera
less
so but increasingly frequent.
is
are major-
At
least
and others
inte-
evolve,
underestimated but
some of the
and minor-league
in every season (see the "Spectator Sports" section).
many
college
and then
Broadway, and cabaret are almost constant presences,
open year-round; there in as
nightlife
a polyglot
of everything.
Washington's legitimate theatrical community excellent; ballet,
is
CEOs, and
of big-city bustlers, yuppies, diplomats, immigrants, students;
little
much. Or too many. Washington
flavors as their patrons: discos, live
showcases, country dance
racetracks are
sports teams at play
And
come comedy
nightclubs
music venues,
halls, specialty bars, sports bars, espresso bars,
gay bars, singles scenes, and "second scenes" for re-entering
singles.
There
are even a couple of strip joints around for boys' night sentimentalists
and brewpubs
for beer connoisseurs.
Just in the last couple of years, a kind of nightclub renaissance has revitalized
whole neighborhoods,
a shift that has
been particularly
visible
353
354
Entertainment and Nightlife
PartTen
downtown
once were nearly deserted
in areas that
least after cocktail hour.
The
boom downtown
is
what
in
MCI
rush hour, or at
after
Centre has sparked a development
now called Penn
Quarter; the
"New U"
corri-
NW
(and which now dor that originally centered on l4th and U Streets small-theatre merge with the begun to Tenth) has stretches to Ninth or regained vitality, Adams-Morgan has interest. strip, adding balance and thanks in part to the
from Eurotrash posing
shift
swingers. Curiously, Georgetown, once a ftil
of hot spots
left,
Among
9:30 club, the
mambo-sawy
as
Mie
N Yu at 3125 M Street, NW.
more important musical addresses in the New U are the Chi Cha Lounge, and the Black Cat (all profiled); the up
U Street, NW;
and coming Velvet Lounge (915
Ex (1847 l4th
Saint
to
mecca, has only a hand-
including Blues Alley and Blue Gin, both profiled
below, and such decor-heavy bars the
nightlife
Street,
NW;
(202) 462-7625); Caf6
(202) 265-7839); Local 16 (1602
U
NW; (202) 265-2828); Bohemian Caverns (2001 Eleventh Street, NW; (202) 299-0800); Cada Vez (1438 U Street, NW; (202) 667-2500); or for jazz swingers, UTopia (1418 U Street, NW; (202) 483-7669); HR-57 (1610 I4th Street, NW; (202) 667-3700); and on concert nights, the Lincoln Theater (1215 U Street, NW; (202) 3286000). For being-scenery, there are Bar Nun (1326 U Street, NW; (202) Street,
332-0533), with
soul
its
Saint (1520 l4th Street,
U
(1355
NW;
Street,
NW;
and funk music but quiet storm alcoves; the NW; (202) 234-0886); Republic Gardens
(202) 232-2710); and
Club
U
(2000 l4th
Street,
(202) 3287-8859).
Adams-Morgan (2443 18th three-level
moveable
a
is
Street,
NW;
(202)
feast,
with
starting
Rumba
Cafe
588-5501) and moving toward the
Heaven/Hell (2327 18th
Street,
NW;
(202) 667-4355); the
multi-purpose restaurant/lounge Felix (2406 18th
Street,
NW;
(202)
483-3549) and the even more ambitious culinary expeditions of the ever-
NW; (202) 328-7194); the deep-dive NW; (202) 265-9241); the 1950s gas Lounge (2435 18th Street, NW; (202) 986-
changing Cities (2424 18th
Dan's Cafe (2315 18th station-look Toledo
5416); the aptly Street,
NW;
Street,
Street,
named
coffeehouse-bar hangout Tryst (2459 18th
(202) 232-5500);
Anzu Downstairs (2436
18th Street,
NW;
(202) 462-8844); Bossa Bistro (2463 18th Street; (202) 667-
0088;
Madams Organ, with live blues, R&B, or bluegrass nightly (2461 NW; (202) 667-5370); the Blue Room (2321 18th Street,
18th Street,
NW; Road,
(202) 332-0800); salsa clasroom Latin Jazz Alley (1721
NW;
room goof Chief
Ike's
most mixed crowds
NW;
Columbia
(202) 328-6190); the quintessential beer hall-basement rec
Cosmo Lounge, which
(age, sex,
(202) 332-2211);
and
race) in
also attracts
one of the
town (1725 Columbia Road,
Pharmacy Bar (2337 18th
Street,
NW;
(202)
Washington 483-1200); 6310); and
end
Habana Village (1834 Columbia Road, NW; many others. Actually, you might end up back at
U
18th and
for late-night refueling at the
355
Nightlife
Street
(202) 462the
bottom
Duplex Diner
(phone (202) 265-7828). Nearly
as impressive
is
the millennial revival of
downtown Connecti-
cut Avenue, long a strictly commercial-business area, larly
and one
that regu-
defeated attempts to go outside the expense-account restaurant
M,
envelope. These days, the five-star intersection at Connecticut,
son and 18th
Streets,
NW,
marks the junction of
nounced "twelve twenty-three") and Ozio (both
Jeffer-
MCCXXIII
profiled); the
(pro-
swank
hall DragonAndalu (1214 fly (1215 Connecticut Avenue, NW; (202) 331-1775); Connecticut Bar Lucky (1221 18th Street, NW; (202) 785-2922); Avenue, NW; (202) 331-3733); Club Five (1214-B 18th Street, NW;
all-white
and sushi-chic (and smoker-friendly) hybrid dance
(202) 331-7123); the underground bordello-decor
NW;
Place,
8652);
(1800 18th
(202)
466-3475); Toka (1140 19th
Club Monaco (3235
M
Street; (202)
Street,
NW;
strip joints (see
you, just turn
M
Street,
NW;
Red (1802
Street,
NW;
Jefferson
(202) 429-
(202) 965-2118);
Yuca
785-1177); and the 18th Street Lounge (1212
(202) 466-3922). There are even a couple of neo-hip
"The Sex Thing", below). And
up the
if all that's
(1345 Connecticut Avenue,
NW;
much
too
street to the intentionally retro beer-bar
for
Big Hunt
(202) 785-2333).
Most remarkable, however, is the Kennedy Center's gift to Washington musiclovers: the Millennium Stage, which provides national and top and patrons a free show at 6 p.m. every local acts in an indoor venue
—
—
day of the
year.
Live entertainment in Washington can be divided into three categories: legitimate theater, comedy,
and
club profiles that follow focus clubs,
rock/pop/jazz/country music.
live
on
music,
live
comedy
The
clubs, discos/dance
and noteworthy after-hours scenes because they generally require (In some cases, live music venues might sell out par-
no advance planning.
ticular performances, so call ahead.)
comedy
clubs,
and
Nightly schedules of live music clubs,
theatrical productions, as well as listings
rooms, opera companies, movie showtimes, ington Post Friday
"Weekend"
section
etc., are
and the
free
of piano
printed in the Wash-
Washington City Paper.
Legitimate Theater Washington boasts more than counting the Kennedy
a
dozen major
theatrical
Center's five stages separately)
venues (not even
and more than a
half-dozen smaller residential and repertory companies, plus university theaters, small special-interest venues,
are
and
where national touring companies,
itinerant troupes.
classical
The Big
Six
musicians, and celebrity
356
Entertainment and Nightlife
PartTen
productions are most apt to show up, and they have the most complete facihties for
handicapped patrons. They are
Washington
expensive. But
is
and
theaters are rapidly getting bigger,
On
any given night
you might
arts
boom, and
the "small"
better.
Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, Symphony Orchestra under Leonard
at the
see the resident National
Concert Hall,
Slatkin or a visiting philharmonic in the 2,500-seat straight
be the most
also likely to
performing
in a
drama or
classic farce in the 1,100-seat
com-
spectacular, or premier cru ballet
and a Broadway musical, kabuki
a
Eisenhower Theater,
—
Opera House that is, when the Washington Opera, under general director Placido Domingo, is not in residence. The two smaller arenas. Terrace Theater and Theater Lab, share the third floor with the restaurant (which has a nice view if you can get it) and
pany
in the 2,300-seat
archives. Philip Johnson's steeply canted
the nation of
accommodate
and showcases;
the avant
Shear Madness is
is
at Virginia
gate; the closest
a free shuttle
467-4600 or
and
New
visit
restaurants, bars
its
Streets,
and sports
bars,
NW,
has become
dance clubs,
station.
which moved
It
Among
in
now
constructing a second, larger theater
Street that will offer jazz, dance, film
productions. Each season
It
art galleries,
that "Penn Quarter" has been added
grandly renovated Lansburg Building.
headline.
a lively
also
1
992 from
it
seats
on
free
Shakespeare
at
NW,
theaters.
name of
beloved but
its
new
and chamber music,
digs in the
at
it is
620 F
as well as, the-
classic plays, three
regularly corrals a few major stage
puts
and
to the
around the corner
produces four
Avenue
complex of
about 450; but
and screen
the
amphitheater every summer. The Shakespeare Theater Street,
(202)
the most important
at the Folger Shakespeare Library into
Shakespeare, and
call
the neighborhood just north of Pennsylvania
the Shakespeare Theatre,
atrical
next to the Water-
For tickets and information,
the Archives/Navy Memorial Metro
now
NW,
www.kennedy-center.org.
so busy, in fact,
cramped home
farce
Foggy Bottom, and the Center operates
is
station.
murder
The Kennedy Cen-
second decade.
Hampshire Avenues,
subway station
from the
between Fourth and 12th
is
from
the Theater Lab, designed to
in
cabaret, the semi-improvised
halfway through
and
Penn Quarter,
It's
gift
Japan, houses experimental or cult-interest productions,
specialty concerts,
ter
and gracious Terrace, a
is
by
stars to
Carter-Barron at
450 Seventh
near the Gallery Place and Archives/Navy Memorial/Penn
Quarter subway stops; for information, (202) 547-1 122; TTY (202) 6383863; www.shakespearetheatre.org.
There
is still
Shakespeare
at the Folger, a
handful of productions in an
intimate setting that suggests a nobleman's banquet hall (201 East Capitol Street;
(202) 544-7077).
Washington
357
Nightlife
Woolly Mammoth, which has been borrowing performance space its neighbors in the l4th and U corridor, has new digs at Seventh and D, (202) 393-3939. Warehouse Theater is a few blocks north at from
1021 Seventh, (202) 783-3933. Ford's, where the balcony box in which
Abraham Lincoln was
shot remains draped in black (and spectrally
inhabited, according to rumor),
is
production of Dickens's Ford's
is
511 10th
at
A
comfy and
a smallish (750-seat) but
newly renovated venue that hosts primarily family
fare
such
as the
annual
Christmas Carol and musicals and revues.
Street,
NW
(Metro Center subway); (202) 347-
4833; www.fordstheatre.org.
The Warner Theatre, which thon,
is
service.
now a
Although
and musicals,
survived a two-year restoration mara-
rococo delight, complete with a few special boxes with food it
it still
is
emphasizing more legitimate theatrical bookings
occasionally barkens back to the days
when
it
was one
of the nicer small-concert venues for popular music, (the reclusive Brian
The Warner
Wilson, for instance, chose the Warner for his "Smile" tour). is
at
13th and
information,
E
NW,
Streets,
near Federal Triangle or Metro Center; for
www.wamertheatre.com.
(202) 783-4000 or go to
call
The National Theatre, which was thoroughly, if a little stored in Miami heat pastels a few years ago, is managed by Organization, which not only books there but
National
more and more often is
at
uses
touring Broadway productions
its it
pre-Broadway tryouts. The
for
1321 Pennsylvania Avenue,
NW,
or Metro Center subway stop. For information, tickets, call
The
(800) 447-7400 or
tripartite
Arena Stage
visit
is
near the Federal Triangle call
(202) 628-6161; for
www.nationaltheatre.org.
the most prestigious of Washington
dent companies and was a prime factor regional theater.
The Fichandler
in the rebirth
tiny,
Room
show
fewer than 200.
Though
(such as a dizzying reenactment of the
it
likes to
Marx
resi-
of American
theater-in-the-round seats a
800; the Kreeger holds more than 500; and the seats
showily, re-
the Shubert
little
over
pubbish Old Vat off
its
versatility
Brothers' "Coconuts" or the
Flying Karamazov Brothers acting in The Brothers Karamazov), the Arena is
dedicated and
fearless,
producing Athol Fugard and August Wilson,
as
and Eugene O'Neill. The Arena is at Sixth on the waterfront, which is also the Metro sta-
well as Tennessee Williams
—
and Maine Avenue, SW tion; phone (202) 488-3300 or
visit
www.arena-stage.org.
Although many of these professional productions can be pricey and often sell out, the Ticket Place office, also down in Penn Quarter and right
down from
enth
Street,
NW,
to 10 percent
Shakespeare Theatre and Woolly sells
Mammoth at 407 Sev-
half-price tickets (plus a service charge
amounting
of the face value) for same-day shows and concerts. Cash,
traveler's checks,
and debit cards
are accepted.
The
Ticket Place
is
open
358
Entertainment and Nightlife
PartTen
Tuesday-Saturday from
Monday shows for a
list
a.m. until 6 p.m.; tickets for Sunday and
1 1
on Saturday when available; call (202) 842-5387 tickets. The Kennedy Center also sells a limited
are sold
of available
number of same-day
tickets at half price
and
offers half-price tickets for
and those with perma-
students, seniors, military, fixed-income families,
nent
disabilities.
For more information,
number of standing-room returned seats
passes
may be available as Top Centre sell
the area such as
events, but they usually
impose a
at
call
(202) 467-4600.
A
limited
reduced prices and occasional
well. (Several other ticket
vendors in
and sporting
tickets to area concerts
large service charge.)
Washington's "off-Broadway" theaters are clustered around the
revital-
NW, neighborhood, specializing in new and cuttingedge works. Among the most intriguing are Source Theater Co. (1835 14th Street, NW; (202) 462-1073); 1409 Playbill Cafe (1409 l4th Street, NW; (202) 232-4552); Arena Stage at l4th and T; and the Studio Theater (l4th and P Streets, NW; (202) 332-3300), which is unveilized I4th Street,
ing a three-stage expansion.
The
Line, a nearby
and
Metro
Jewish-interest Theater J
NW;
blocks away (1529 l6th Street,
station (called
U Street-Cardozo)
is
is
On
(202) 518-9418).
just a
the
few
Green
located at l4th
U Streets. One
boom
is
not limited to downtown,
the strongest "small" theaters
is
Signature Theatre in Arlington, which
The
theater-building
has received strong national reviews, especially of tions
(3806 South Four Mile
new
also building a
nearly three times
Mason
Run
its
either.
of
Sondheim produc-
Drive; (703) 218-6500); Signature
is
space, yet another two-stage space that will seat
its
current 135.
The Center
for the Arts at
George
University, (703) 993-ARTS, in Fairfax, also hosts a varied pro-
gram of arts and
letters, as
In the past few years, a
well as performances.
number of impressive performance venues have
been developed in the Maryland suburbs, several accessible by subway.
One, the new Music Center
at
Strathmore Hall
in
North Bethesda, has
from the Grosvenor/Strathmore Metro station. The original Strathmore Hall already hosted tea-time concerts on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, along with summertime concerts and familya dedicated pedestrian overpass
fare films
on
the lawn;
mation on programs
it
call
also has art galleries
(301) 530-0540.
and
crafts
The Music
shows; for infor-
Center, which seats
2,000, books national classical and pop singers, visiting orchestras,
On tion,
the is
and
folk
same Metro
line, just across
one of two performance
Theater company (301)644-1100).
symphony
and blues society shows.
(East- West
the street from the Bethesda sta-
stages belonging to the
Highway and Waverly
Round House
Street, Bethesda;
— Washington
359
Nightlife
Farther out the Red Line, near the Rockville Metro stop, is Montgomery College and the Robert E. Parilla Performing Arts Center (for the box office call (301) 279-5301), which brings in European ballet and
symphony orchestra, and such family-oriented touring acts as Mickey Rooney and old Broadway shows. There is no shuttle, but bus or cab service
is
available
performance
from the
station.
Maryland now boasts one of the
In addition,
arts
complexes.
forming Arts Center
at
The
most impressive
Smith Per-
Maryland, on the College Park campus on the
University of Maryland, offers as
(and in several
area's
recently completed Clarice
many
venues
as the
Kennedy Center
even more cutting-edge acoustical and recording
cases,
Dekelboum Concert Hall, the 180-seat Dance Theatre, the 650-seat proscenium Kay Theatre, the 300-seat Gildenhom Recital Hall, the intimate 100-seat Laboratory Theatre, technology): the 1,100-seat
and the 200-seat "black box"-style Kogod Theatre. Also on the campus, but not actually in the Smith complex, seat Broadway-style
home
the
is
Tawes Theatre,
proscenium, which has been for
many
a 1,350-
years the
of the prestigious William Kapell Piano Competition,
Recent Smith Center offerings have ranged from Chinese opera and
and the Bang on a Company, to the theCan All-Stars, and the Merce Cunningham Dance Guarneri and the Trojan Women, atre department's production of The the Shanghai Traditional Orchestra, to Phillip Glass
String Quartet in
open
rehearsal.
The
Clarice Smith Center
sity
Green Line subway shuttles directly
And
at
Univer-
to the College Park Station
Montgomery County:
Olney Theatre (200 1 Olney-
the
(301) 924-3400) and the increasingly
popular BlackRock Center for the Arts in
Commons
Drive; (301) 528-2260).
stage, a
1
With
30-seat dance theater, and an outdoor performance stage
plus exbition galleries
Chamber
Marcus Roberts
Players, Richie
is
Among
Trio, the Baltimore
films
one of the best examrecent artists
booked
Symphony Orchestra
Havens, Janis Ian, local rockbilly and soul faves
Ruthie and the Wranglers and
and
and outdoor family
and classrooms, BlackRock
of "new town" community centers.
there are the
Germantown (12901 Town three venues— a 210-seat
its
for theatrical productions, festivals, concerts,
ples
free
although they require cars (or friends), there are two other promi-
Sandy Spring Road, Olney;
main
and take one of two
to the Stamp Student Union or the campus "Circuit"shuttle to the complex. For more information call (301) 405-2787.
nent venues in
ers
is
Boulevard and Stadium Drive in College Park; you can take the
Mary Ann Redmond, and
indie film
mak-
storytellers.
In addition, several of the
concerts of classical, jazz,
downtown
pop or
public buildings frequently hold
folk music,
and even some medieval
360
PartTen
consorts,
Entertainment and Nightlife
among them
Washington National Cathedral, the National
the
Gallery of Art, the Library of Congress
and the National Museum of Nat-
History, which on Thursdays hosts Jazz
ural
on
IMAX.
at the
and
these, plus the handful of smaller theaters
For information
itinerant companies,
check the "Guide to the Lively Arts" in the Washington Post Friday "Week-
end" or Sunday "Show" sections or the
free City
Paper handout.
In general, Washington audiences have loosened their
comes is,
the
ularly
black
tie (or "creative
tally,
many of the
theater
menus
Comedy
in
Washington
is
To some
black
but you can go
tie"),
as
full
of jokes
—and
that's
formers (those "Washington institutions" whose relatively gentle); the sketch
are the anti-estabUshment baby-busters first
two groups
comedians range from
inciden-
who
—
podium
satires are usually
and the stand-up
in
some
musi-
artists
who
cases, the urban guer-
room.
to locker
is
Omni Shoreham
at the
still
the cabaret per-
styles:
the cabaret comedians
whose residency
terms and
one. Capital comedians
are almost unavoidably political; the stand-up
political
The most famous of Russell,
And
and improvisational troupes from
the post- Watergate Saturday Night Live era;
The
are.
Washington and
and
you
(and bargain) prices; be sure to inquire.
at fixed
first
torial
it
nicer restaurants near the big-ticket venues offer pre-
the
rillas.
when
extent, the
divide very roughly into three generations
cal
ties
more "serious" a production dressier the crowd, although jeans have become ubiquitous, particat the smaller, avant-garde companies. Opening nights are often to theater attire.
plays several
weeks
PBS
irregular
Mark
lasted about four sena-
at a
time
at Ford's
Theatre
every year (online at www.markrussell.net).
The most
loyal opposition
former and current Hill
is
offered
staffers
who
by the Capitol Steps, a group of
roast their
own
hosts by rewriting
familiar songs with pun-ishing lyrics. In addition to entertaining at semiofficial
functions (which
may
be one reason
blunted compared to some more outspoken
why
their barbs are a tad
satirists'),
the Capitol Steps
are a popular tourist attraction and perform every Friday and Saturday at
the Ronald Reagan International Trade Building at 13th nia,
NW;
call
(202)
and Pennsylva-
312-1555; www.capsteps.com. The Metro
stop
is
Federal Triangle.
After a few years' hiatus.
Comedy
Sportz has reformed and plays
its
Whose Line Is It, Anyway-style games Thursdays through Saturdays on the third floor of the Metro-connected Ballston Common Mall (phone (703) 294-5233).
Gross National Product (reservations at (202) 783-7212), an underground resistance movement that went above-ground after Reagan's
Washington election,
is
now
and
a national act
is
in residence in
Nightlife
New
ture,
is
its
obsession:
it
struc-
skewers snoops, creeps, and veeps with gusto
long tenure, a hint of childish
its
York or Los
power
Angeles at various times. Politics, especially the executive
and, despite
361
glee.
Revues have
titles
Hundred Daze" and "A Newt World Order." like "Clintoons: long, and since topicality is the name of the minutes about 90 Shows are
The
game,
and
skits rise
was on
First
fall
GNP
hiatus).
GNP
with the state of the world. (At press time,
one of Washington's more unique
also operates
tour services, Scandal Tours, which takes sightseers past such political
landmarks
as
where
Hart's townhouse; the Jefferson Hotel,
Gary
cal gun-for-hire
Dick Morris simultaneously sucked
and directed the Democrats' campaign
strategy;
politi-
a prostitute's toes
and Fanne
Fox's
—
impromptu swimming pool, the Tidal Basin an event retold by sex scandal veteran "Bob Packwood." Scandal Tours depart from the Old Post Office Pavilion Saturdays at
p.m. (reservations
1
at (202)
783-
www.gnpcoinedy.com) The overbooking and overbuilding that made comedy shops the fastfood entertainment of the 1980s is giving way to more exclusive (or at least better-budgeted) clubs. The most reliable are the downtown fran-
7212; information
at
.
chise of the star-circuit
Evening
at the
Improv
(profiled)
comic showcase's Wiseacres (8401 Westpark Drive
and the in
cable-
the Tysons
Westpark Hotel; (877) 947-3227 or (703) 734-2800). Hip, gay, and Kate Clinton, Paula Poundstone, straight comedians of both sexes Dennis
regularly colleges.
—do
—
Washington that many are booked not into clubs but into mid-sized theatrical venues and Many nightclubs and restaurants offer comedy one night a
Miller,
Judy Tenuta
so well in
week; check newspapers for specific In general, local
all
beginner
clubs
who
now follow a
patters
listings.
standard lineup: the opener, usually a
about ten minutes and also serves
(and who, especially on open mike night,
between a smooth production and a either
cable
may mean
free-for-all);
as
emcee
the difference
the "featured act,"
an experienced journeyman or perhaps a second-rank national or
TV performer, who does about 30 minutes; and the headliner, usu-
ally
somebody with Letterman
who
performs about an hour.
or
Leno
credits or at least a cable special,
Live Pop, Rock, and Jazz Although
it isn't
widely advertised, for some reason, Washington
is
a
haven for music lovers of all types, and in the summer especially an astonishing amount of music is free to the public. From classical to college-radio rock, from hole-in-the-wall to the Washington Mall, you can hear
it all.
Credit for the
rise in
live-music clubs in the Washington
362 area
Entertainment and Nightlife
PartTen
is
split
between the booming third-world community, used
hours and different music
to later
and twentysomething
styles; the large college
population looking for entertainment, along with the thirtysomethings
who
started looking ten years ago;
and don't want
number of
the increasing
twenty- and thirty- and even fortysomethings
who
live in
go downtown for a good time; the more
to
those
the suburbs assertive
gay
and faux-prole communities seeking accommodation; and the fair number of stubborn musicians and underground entrepreneurs who have and support networks
established venues
Jazz, of course, has a long history in
U
1940s the
for themselves
Washington
Street/Howard Theater corridor was
Harlem. But
Broadway" and
rivaled
and bankrupted
clubs, jazz
is
reviving
after years all
—
and one another.
in the
known
1930s and
as the
"Black
of declining audiences
around the
area;
and the num-
ber of young jazz musicians, black and white, classical and contemporary, is
remarkable. In
Cardozo Metro
fact,
the Lincoln Theater (not far from the
U Street, NW;
1215
at
U
Street-
(202) 328-6000), which used to
be one of the most popular stops for nationally ranked performers, has
been restored to jazz
Among
Georgian Revival glory and
its
and pop shows
is
beginning to feature
again.
and Takoma Sta-
the best places to hear jazz are Blues Alley
tion Tavern (profiled); Twins (1344
Colorado Avenue,
NW;
City (1250 South Hayes
U Street;
(202) 234-0072 and
5516
(202) 882-2523); the Ritz-Carlton Pentagon Street,
Arhngton; (703) 415-5000); the Basin
Lounge/219 Restaurant (219 King Street, Alexandria, VA; (703) 549-1 141); The Ice House Cafe (760 Elden Street, Herndon, Virginia;
Street
Bangkok Blues,
(703) 437-4500);
(926 West Broad
Street, Falls
tion (2325 18th Street,
Eighth (424-A Eighth Caverns,
like the
NW;
a fine Thai restaurant in
its
own
right
Church; (703) 534-0095); Columbia Sta(202) 462-6040); U-Topia; Ellington's on
Street,
SE; (202) 546-8308); and
Bohemian
Lincoln Theater, an old club rediscovered. In addition,
many hotels have fine jazz pianists in their lounges. The mega-rock concert venues tend to be sports arenas doing double duty: The 20,000-plus-seat MCI Center downtown, home to the Washington Bullets basketball and Washington Wizards hockey teams; the 50,000-seat
RFK
Stadium, erstwhile home of the Redskins football accessible by Metro to the Sta-
team (which has the advantage of being
and the all-purpose 10,000-seat Patriot Center
dium/Armory
stop);
lege arena at
George Mason
in Fairfax,
big-name country concerts. Tickets
by phone from TicketMaster
for these
at
www.tickemaster.com), but beware: have been
known
which
(202)
shows are usually available
432-7328
"service charges"
to reach $4.50 per ticket
col-
also tends to carry the
—not per
(or
online
and handling
order.
at
fees
Washington
The most popular outdoor commercial venue oflF
Route 7
ment
—pop,
363
Nightlife
Wolf Trap Farm Park
is
Vienna, Virginia, which offers almost nightly entertain-
in
country, jazz and
R&B,
MOR (middle-of-the-road) rock, and
even ballet and Broadway musical tours
—and
picnicking under the stars
summer at its Filene Center amphitheater. During the winter season. Wolf Trap shifts to its small but acoustically great Bams, literally two rebuilt barns; among its best concerts are the annual Folk Masters series coordinated with the Smithsonian. Wolf Trap has started its own during the
phone
service called ProTix,
which charges lower
fees
than TicketMaster
(and thus has not incurred the wrath of any popular rock group); log on to
www.wolftrap.org or
call
(703) 218-6500 for
On
Wolf Trap shows.
sum-
mer nights, the Metro operates a $5 round- trip shuttle service from the West
Church
Falls
whichever
The
watch your watch: the
station to the Filene Center, but
return shuttle leaves either is earlier, in
20 minutes
after the final curtain or at
p.m.,
1 1
order to ensure that riders don't miss the Metro.
Merriweather Post Pavilion
recently upgraded
in
Columbia,
Maryland, has the busiest pop/rock outdoor arena and mixes old-favorite rock and pop tours with younger-draw and cult acts (Norah Jones, Kid
Rock, even Incubus and Bela Fleck); but ton and can only be reached by
newspapers for current
some
it is
However,
listings.)
distance from Washing-
uses the ProTix network; see
car. (It also
it
new
has a
rival
around the
other side of the Beltway: the Nissan Pavilion outside Manassas, Virginia,
which has 10,000 covered ple.
seats,
and lawn
seating for another 15,000 peo-
Operated by Cellar Door Productions, the
the east coast (and owners of the
Nissan Pavilion
is
Bayou
currendy booking
many
use the TicketMaster network (phone
of the same acts
(202)
pavilion.com). Like Merriweather Post, however, car.
The more
progressive rock acts,
booking agency on
largest
nightclub in Georgetown), the as
MPP;
both
432-7328; www.nissan can only be reached by
it
which draw strong
college
and post-
grad audiences, tend to be booked into college auditoriums such as George
Washington
University's Lisner
Auditorium or Smith Center. National are often booked gospel, soul, folk
—
— R&B,
acts
with limited audiences
into
DAR Constitution Hall alongside the Ellipse.
listings for entertainers
Mason is
Check
and phone numbers while you're
the newspaper
in town.
George
University Center for the Arts, which adjoins the Patriot Center,
a lovely
new
mid-sized venue for
classical
and
jazz
music and drama.
Tickets available at (703) 218-6500 orwww.tickets.com.
You
will also find concerts at
many Washington
the National Cathedral and depending
museums and There
churches, including
on the time of
year,
inside
galleries.
are several fine
Freedom Plaza
at
1
outdoor music venues
in the area, including
4th and Pennsylvania Avenue near the White House,
364
PartTen
home
to
Entertainment and Nightlife
numerous
free
particularly the annual
music and ethnic
Amphitheatre
July celebrations. Carter-Barron hosts gospel, soul, jazz,
and
during the summer,
festivals
DC World Jazz Fest held
during the Fourth of
Rock Creek Park
in
R&B concerts on summer weekends.
Several
other smaller city parks, museums, and federal building plazas stage concerts that are listed in the
newspapers.
The Mall between the U.S. Capitol and the site of many festivals during the year,
the
Washington Monument
especially
on such holidays
is
as
Memorial Day, the Fourth of July, and Labor Day, when the National
Symphony
Orchestra headlines
family concerts.
The
Smithsonian's
annual Festival of American Folklife, which features three or four ferent ethnic groups every year, also has
night;
it
holiday
dif-
parties every
runs from the weekend before the Fourth of July through the
itself
The most important
clubs booking national alternative rock acts are
the 9:30 club, the Black Cat, and the filed)
music and dance
near the
Nation on Capitol
Navy Yard Metro (Half and
K
Streets,
Hill
(all
pro-
SE; (202) 554-
1500).
For
folk, country,
Birchmere Carpenter
both for
as favorite
local
cult oldie,
and bluegrass music, the Landmark venue is the which boasts Mary Chapin
in Alexandria, Virgina (profiled),
is
daughter.
One
of the increasingly important venues
and national bookings, plus the rare eccentric, country or the State Theater in Falls Church, a great vintage movie
theater turned restaurant/bar/concert venue (220 Street; (703)
237-0300). Half
Moon
Bar-B-Q, in
North Washington Silver Springs (pro-
books local and national R&B, blues, Cajun and rockabilly a decendent of the old Twist and Shout club of the Mary Chapin Carpenfiled)
ter song.
Jammin' Java
(also profiled)
books music nearly every night.
Piano bars are legion, but the best and most accomplished jazz at Circle
The on
just
(One Washington
Bistro
Circle; (202)
best bets for acoustic, folk-rock,
modern pop,
any old night are Iota
which
local progressive level national
(profiled),
is
played
293-5390).
is
or original music
especially popular with
pop/rock writers; Jammin' Java, also booking second-
and
local acts nightly
(227 Maple Avenue, Vienna; (703)
255-1566); Austin Grill (919 Ellsworth Avenue, Silver Spring; (240)
247-8969); and Whitlow's on Wdson (2854 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington; (703) 276-9693); the Clarendon Grill (1101 North Highland Street; (703)
524-7455); and the Rhodeside GrUl (1836 Wilson Boule-
vard, Arlington; (703) 243-0145);
borhood. The
last
of the
area's
all
in the hot
Tiffany Tavern in Alexandria (1116 King indie rockers are likely to
new Clarendon
once-plentiful bluegrass spots
show up
at
Street; (703)
neighis
the
836-8844). Art-
Galaxy Hut, owned by popular
— Washington
365
Nightlife
edge-cutter Alice Despard (2711 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington; (703)
525-8646). "Coffeehouses" are flourishing (the folk music
cappuccino type, though they're booming, too), but
variety,
many
not the
coffeehouse
acoustic-music events occur only monthly in area churches or schools;
check the papers.
some of
Old-style blues has lost there are
the
still
its
New Vegas Lounge
best venues in recent years, but
(1415 P
ginia; (703)
NW;
Street,
3971); the Sunset GrUl (7250 Columbia Pike,
NW,
(202) 483-
Annandale, Vir-
658-0928); Fat Tuesday's (10673 Braddock Road, Fairfax;
(703) 385-8660); and J.V.'s (6666 Arlington Boulevard, Falls Church; (703) 241-9504). Irish bars
resident
do
a flourishing business in
and almost always Ireland's
one
at least
Four Provinces (by
NW;
necticut Avenue,
(202) 543-5433);
Avenue,
Washington with the help of
community of performers. Among
NW;
—
are the
the Cleveland Park
(202) 244-0860); Irish
Nanny
Dubliner Metro
Times (14 F
(profiled);
3412 Con-
at
Street,
NW;
O'Brien's across the street (3319 Connecticut
Fado Irish Pub (808 Seventh Street, Old Brogue (760-C Walker Road, Great
(202) 686-9189);
NW;
(202) 789-0066); the
Falls,
Virginia;
Alexandria,
fireplace
a
the pubs with live music
(703) 759-3309); Pat Troy's (111
Virginia;
North
Pit Street,
and Flanagan's
549-4535);
(703)
(near
the
7637 Old Georgetown Road, Bethesda, Maryland; (301) 986-1007), which also hosts the semiannual appearances of Irish veterans Tommy Makem and the Furey Brothers. Bethesda station
The
local reggae acts generally play the
consin Avenue, Central;
nights Kili's
Dead
and the
NW;
State Theater
is
also
on Thursdays; and
Street,
home
to
NW;
is
(2408 Wis-
Deadhead
also local
at the east or
at 8
occasionally
Monday
show up
at
(202) 232-1562).
one other type of band: the armed serv-
bands. From about Memorial
and Sunday
& Tankard
diehards can also drop by LuLu's (profiled) on
the four branches perform
p.m.
Grog
(202) 333-3114), which
Kafe (2009 Eighth
Washington ices
at
Day
to
Labor Day, ensembles from
Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday
at
8
west side of the Capitol; Tuesday, Thursday, Friday,
p.m.
at various locations;
and Tuesday
at 8
p.m.
at the
Navy Memorial at 7th and Pennsylvania Avenue, NW. Call (703) 6963399 or visit www.army.mil/armyband for details. Programs include patriotic and martial numbers, country, jazz, pop, and some classical music. You're welcome to bring brown bags, but alcohol is not permitted.
Swing Your Partner Country and disco dancing have been big ethnic and folk dancing
—
for years in
Washington, but
klezmer, polka, contra, Cajun
—
as well as
366
PartTen
Entertainment and Nightlife
swing dance and big-band boogie are also popular, especially in the suburbs. Their venues are also nonthreatening gles,
even novices, since
the steps, and
all
many have
and hospitable spots
for sin-
pre-dance "workshops" for learning
seem well supplied with
tolerant
and
deft "leaders."
Dance
For swing dancing, the best bets are the Washington Swing
Committee, which holds Saturday night dances weather
at the
in
all
but the coldest
grand deco Spanish Ballroom in the old Glen Echo amuse-
ment park in Bethesda, Maryland (information at: (301) 492-6282); the Clarendon Ballroom (3185 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington, Virginia; (703) 469-2244); Chevy Chase Ballroom (5207 Wisconsin Avenue, NW; (202) 462-0820); Hollywood Ballroom in Silver Spring, Maryland (2126 Industrial Parkway; (301) 622-5494). The America branch in Union
Station sometimes hosts bands, too; call (202) 682-9555. Various
restaurants
around town
tra
swing
are experimenting with martini-lounge
nights during the week; check the local listings. For folk, Cajun,
and con-
dances contact the Folklore Society of Greater Washington at (202)
546-2228 or www.fsgw.org.
You can polka (and pile on the bratwurst) to your heart's content any Sunday at Blob's Park, a Bavarian-fantasy beer hall and polka pavilion in Jessup, Maryland, that holds 1 ,000 revelers and a Friday, Saturday, or
five-man
oompah
band; for information,
call
(410) 799-0155 or
visit
www.blobspark.com. For country, try Nick's in Alexandria (642 South Pickett
Street; (703)
751-8900) or Spurs (2106 Grain Highway Waldorf; (301) 843-9964). For Latin dancing, try Bravo Bravo (1001 Connecticut Avenue,
NW;
Cuzco (5831 Columbia Pike, Falls Church, Virginia; (703) 845-1661); Habana Village in Adams-Morgan, which has salsa lessons on Wednesday through Friday (1834 Columbia Road, NW; (202) 223-5330);
462-6310);
(202)
Cafe Citron
(1343
NW;
Connecticut Avenue,
(202)530-8844); or Latin Alley, also in Adams-Morgan, for lessons and
dance Wednesday through Saturday (1721 Columbia Road,
NW;
(202)
328-6190). For Brady Bunch-styk 1970s retro and 1980s imports, try Polly Esther's, a Saturday Night Fever revival club for white lipstick lovers
open Thursday through Saturday (605 12th
737-1970; and in the Rockville Doubletree Hotel Pike, Rockville, Maryland; (301) 881-7341);
Street, at
NW;
(202)
1750 Rockville
and the Thursday
regular
Heaven/Hell in Adams-Morgan (above). The 20-to-40 crowd that's into Top 40 disco tends to hang out at MCCXXIII and Platinum (both profiled); the Edge (56 L Street, SE; gig at
(202) 488-1200); and
Home Nightclub
4663). Internationals head to
And
the
new
indie-rock, brit
Dream
and
(91
1
F
Street,
NW;
and Zanzibar (both
"electroclash" club,
(202) 638profilied).
booking
live
and
spinning simultaneously, is DC 9 (1940 Ninth Street, NW; (202) 4835000), a double-wide complex of bars, faux bedrooms, and DJ booms.
Washington
367
Nightlife
Ashes to Ashes Here
many
as in
other urban centers, cigars are the
tication
manque. Aside from Ozio
jumped
the trend-bar time
Butlers Cigar Bar (1000 is
Room
SheU/s Back
wine bar by the
at
warp and remodeled
H
(1331 F
menu
with a cigar
show of sophis-
old sports bar into
its
NW; (202) 637-4765). Not far away Street, NW; (202) 737-3003). And the
Street,
Melrose restaurant
glass
latest
Grand Hyatt Hotel has
(profiled), the
in the
Park Hyatt Hotel
(1201 24th
Street,
is
NW;
mixing
its
wines
(202) 955-3899).
Espresso and Eight-ball The two
Washington are coffee bars and billiards paryou can spend not merely hours but whole evenings, and
biggest trends in
lors.
At
either
in a
few
cases,
hang out
Many of the espresso dows. But a couple are in the
city,
The
even
if
virtually
among
some
mere
are
service
around
are
Georgetown
Dave
& Buster's and Buffalo
Billiards (3251 Prospect Street,
4600 Wis-
(202) 965-7665); Babe's (near the Tenleytown Metro at
NW;
consin Avenue,
Champion
(202) 966-0082);
Billiards (1776 East
which
Jefferson Street, Rockville, Maryland; (301) 231-4949),
food until
1
Fairfax Drive, Arlington, Vir-
532-7665), which has the specific attraction of serving barbe-
cue from Rocklands
Bungalow
also serves
a.m. Sunday through Thursday, and until 3 a.m. on Friday
and Saturday; and CarPooI (4000 North ginia; (703)
win-
interesting after-hours hangouts
most
the
the patrons are the only "entertainment."
biggest billiards parlors
Billiards (both profiled);
NW;
around the clock.
bars are tiny walk-ins;
(see
its
profile in Part Nine:
Dining and Restaurants).
Billiards (13891 Metrotech Drive, Chantilly, Virginia; (703)
502-0804 and 7003-C Manchester Boulevard, Alexandria, (703) 924-8730); occasionally offers
For funkier decor and a
less
(3427 Connecticut Avenue,
live
entertainment
formal atmosphere, try
NW,
at the
Virginia;
as well.
Atomic
Billiards
Cleveland Park Metro; (202)
363-7665); or Bedrock Billiards (1841 Columbia Road,
NW;
(202)
667-7665).
True Brews Washington has entire
—
another fresh brew
also discovered
Washington-Baltimore region has gone
brewpubs and microbreweries has made
it
brewers in style and also to taste a huge
sners
and
als.
And most
Among
the
wheat
downtown brewpubs
of the works,
are the Capital
A boom
in
pil-
bocks, and seasonif you're intrigued.
City Brewing Co.
H
Streets,
(202) 628-2222), in the Village at Shirlington (2700 South
Quincy
branches near the Washington Convention Center
NW;
In fact, the
suds.
number of recipes, from
ales, fruit beers,
offer at least informal tours
beer.
possible to support your local
craft
lagers to stouts, porters,
silly for
Street, Arlington, Virginia; (703)
(1
1th
and
578-3888), and in the Postal
Museum
368
Entertainment and Nightlife
PartTen
NW;
building (2 Massachusetts Avenue,
much
singles scenes as beer temples;
(202) 842-2337), which are as
R.F.D. (810 Seventh
Brewhouse,
a branch of a
Pennsylvania Avenues,
Cambridge, Massachusetts,
NW;
NW;
Street,
John Harvard's
(202) 289-2030) doesn't brew, but carries 300 beers.
favorite (13th
and
(202) 783-2739). In Bethesda, the latest
Cap City group goes mug to mug with Rock Bottom Old Georgetown Road and Woodmont Avenue; (301) 6521311. Among other popular spots where vats are on view are Summit
outpost of the
Brewery
at
Station in Gaithersburg, Maryland (227 East
Diamond Avenue;
(301)
519-9400); Dr. Dremo's Taphouse (2001 Clarendon Boulevard, Arlington; (703) 528-4660); or
Old Dominion Brewing Co.
in
Ashburn, Vir-
which
is
also the area's
ginia (44633 Guilford Drive; (703) 724-9100),
most
successful
microbrewing company.
For more Washington suds stops, check the profile of the Brickskeller or the "Freshest Beers" restaurant
list
on page 270.
The SexThing Washington
is
not the singles capital of the world, but
it
does have
many
of the ingredients for a busy meat-market scene: frequent turnovers in power, a dozen colleges and universities, a continual influx of immigrants
and corporate
hires,
and what
until recently
was considered a "recession-
proof" economy.
The them
singles bars
around Washington
dance clubs
are
as well, so there's
astrological incompatibilities.
more
The
are relatively benign.
Many
of
something to do besides discuss
sports-bar habitues tend to be a
little
flagrant in their appraisals of fresh talent, as are those in bars that
cater to the fortysomething crowd.
and a
bit
west of Dupont Circle, especially around the intersection of 19th and
M
The
busiest singles strip in the District
is
midtown,
Streets,
where the Sign of the Whale (1825
1110);
Rumours (1900
ter
(1831
M
Street
M Street NW;
NW;
Georgetown, so you can have a
The
Club of Bethesda
Suburban
of
District has
many years, most
is
is
(profiled).
been
home
Anything with
to a strong gay
many
a bar will do.
community
for
mixed, albeit unobtrusive
well-established gay nightspots, espeHill.
are the Polo-label JR's (1519 17th Street,
Among
NW;
the
most popular
(202) 328-0090) near
and big-buckle Remington's (near the 639 Pennsylvania Avenue, SE; (202) 543-
Circle; the pointy-toe
Eastern Market station at
few blocks west
and cash-flow-confident crowd
around Dupont Circle and Capitol
Dupont
A
Madhat-
progressive singles party.
clubs attract at least a slightly
crowd. However, there are
(202) 785-
(202) 466-7378); and
singles centers are easy to spot:
Although the
cially
sort
busiest singles bar for the older
the Yacht
M Street, NW;
833-1495).
(202)
just south
Washington 3113), and the softcore leather-with-rhythm
Vernon Place Metro
at
639
369
Nightlife
DC Eagle (near the Mount
New York Avenue, NW;
(202) 347-6025).
Several of the hottest gay/lesbian/friendly straight dance clubs are clus-
tered
around Dupont
Among them
are
232-6969); Chaos
of D.C.'s gay culture.
Circle, the traditional heart
R
Cobalt/30 Degrees (17th and (17th and
Q
Streets,
NW;
Streets,
NW;
(202)
(202) 232-4141), with
its
Saturday and Sunday brunch drag-diva revues; and Apex, which has semi-steamy videos to go with the marathon mixes and occasional Drag
Kings shows. Club Five even has still
up
dawn;
at
it
starts at
Sunday morning "Mass"
a
for those
6 a.m.
is the most flamboyant of the outer hangouts, featuring and often astonishingly polished drag shows Thursday through Sunday (1345 Half Street, SE; (202) 554-5141). Although it's not in the safest neighborhood, Ziegfeld's will call you a cab when you're
Ziegfeld's
uproarious
ready to leave. If
you
dance but hate to eat alone, try the Annie's Paramount
can't
Steak House (1609 17th
Columbia Road, Finally,
NW;
NW;
(202) 232-0395), or Perry's (1811
Street
was
and redevelopment, old habits
die
although the onetime red-light
by
officially eradicated
North and
hard.
Street,
(202) 234-6218).
east
around 13th and
redistricting
district
of the White House, and especially in the blocks
L, prostitutes not only parade past
pedestrians but take advantage of traffic lights drivers. Periodically the police crack
nalled
by the overnight closing of
makes only lic
a
down on
Many
for soliciting singles
and proposition
and stop
signs to accost
the scene,
streets in the
temporary dent. The business
transportation:
around l4th
which
is
sig-
neighborhood; but
also takes
it
advantage of pub-
of the hotel bars along the Metro are hangouts
—and humorously, they seem
to prefer the red line,
as if in tribute to "red-light" districts.
A few from
reminders: Although most prostitutes try to protect themselves
disease,
both drug use and
are actually bait, fronts for
endanger your health and
AIDS
are pervasive. Second,
drug dealers
who
many dates
can more immediately
safety. Besides, District police are ftilly familiar
with the tricks of the trade, so
we
don't advise that
you
get involved. If
—
you must look, don't touch and keep your car doors locked. For a somewhat less hands-on experience, there are a couple of relatively sedate strip joints downtown, including Archibald's, which is on the ground floor of the
(1520
K
Avenue
Street, at
Georgetown, 333-0128).
M
Cafe building off MacPherson Square
(202) 737-2662); Camelot, just off Connecticut
NW; (202) 887-5966); and its neighbor M Street, NW; (202) 296-2191). Good Guys, above an old favorite (2311 Wisconsin Avenue, NW; (202)
1823
Mpire (1819
NW;
Comedy
Street,
is
And
for the safest fantasy trips around,
drop by Georgetown's
370
PartTen
Entertainment and Nightlife
funny/ fantasy sex boutiques:
NW;
Avenue,
the
cards, T-shirts, fishnet stockings, rival
Dream
penses
Pleasure Place (1063 Wisconsin
(202) 333-8570), which offers videos, X-rated birthday
and the Uke; and
its
across-the-street-
Dresser, a fancy-silly X-rated Victoria's Secret, which dis-
and
leather
latex
as
well
as
accoutrements (1042 Wisconsin Avenue,
More on the
lighter-hearted
NW;
and
souvenirs
(202) 625-0373).
Safety Thing
tip to remember: You're never entirely safe. There no guaranteed neighborhood in the area. In fact, we have left: some otherwise deserving and successful clubs off the list because they're in
There
is
only one safety
is
questionable territory, even for savvy residents.
The suburbs
are generally
okay, but even the ostensibly upscale areas of the District, such as
Georgetown and Dupont
Circle, are
not
immune
to crime.
leave nightclubs, especially after about 10 p.m., in
yourself to a group or ask the club
wiser to
call
a cab than to
management
for
walk more than a block or
It's
best to
company. Attach an
so.
escort.
It's
also
(Mace, inciden-
now legal in Maryland, Virginia, and the District of Columbia.) And a final tip: If you believe in helping out the homeless (the staggering number of which you may find one of the less inspiring monuments
tally, is
to
modern
life
in
Washington), try stashing dollar
outside pocket so that you can reach or purse.
Niehtclub
bills
or change in an
them without opening your
wallet
Washington
NIGHTCLUBS BY ZONE
(continued)
Nightlife
371
372
PartTen
Entertainment and Nightlife
C Profiles of Clubs
370
Mt. Vernon Avenue. Alexandria; (703) 549-7500
1
Cover Varies
with entertainment; roughly $l5-$45
$3-$8Wine
$4.50-$6.50
sal jeans,
Food
Virginia suburbs.
all
sorts
suits, a lot
—cowboy,
373
Zone
Minimum None Mixed
Beer $3.50-$5 Dress A few
neo-farm country wear and boots of
and Nightspots
I
I
drinks
of flannels, univerhiking,
motorcycle
now
available After years of getting by on potato chips, Birchmere patrons can
get serious tavern fare, including barbecue, burgers, and hot nibbles, from the folks at
Union Street Pub and King Street
Hours
Every
What
day,
6-1
goes on This
and country acts
1
start at 7:30 p.m.
one of the major clubs
especially,
Chapin Carpenter, plus
Tom
Shows
:30 p.m.
is
Blues.
in
town, the biggest for new acoustic
such as Rosanne Cash and
cult regulars Jerry Jeff Walker
hometown heroine Mary-
and Delbert McClinton; old folk
Paxton and John Stewart; new femme fronters Kristin Hersh, Christine
and
Lavin,
Maria Muldaur
Setting and atmosphere The long-awaited new home for
jumped from old-fashioned to new-fangled: not only main stage but a cigar-martini bar
(for the
expected
a
this
much more
influx of
venerable club has spacious 500-seat
trendy patrons?), a
1
50-
seat side stage/cafe, a microbrewery on-site, and "real" pub food. If
you go Go
closest-in.
If
early: Parking
is
tight (but free); the line
you're trying to eat
eat elsewhere.
light,
is
long;
and seating
Remember
is
first-come,
to take off your big hat
so the folks behind you can see. And take thankful note of the sign that asks for quiet during performances: this really
is
a listening club. Visit
www.birchmere.com
for a
schedule.
BLACK CAT MAJOR
LIVE
ROCK-POP VENUE WITH
Who GoesThere 1
8
II
4th Street.
1
Dupont
DJS
FOR BACKUP
20-^0; locals and tourist music fans
NW; (202)
667-7960; www.blackcatdc.com
Circle/ Adams-Morgan,
Zone
6
Minimum None Mixed
Cover
Varies with entertainment,
Wine
$5-$7 Beer $3-$5 Dress Ranges from grungy to
Food Thought menu the act
Hours
$5-$20
available Vegan and vegetarian
fair
drinks $5-$8
nightclub-hip,
depending on
from the now-defunct Food for
Sunday-Thursday, 8 p.m.-2 a.m.; Friday and Saturday, 7 p.m.-3 a.m.
Metro U
Street/Cardoza
What goes on A
mix of hot regional and early-national alternative rock, funky-punk,
and high-ticket camp
(El
Vez, the "Mexican Elvis," etc.).
Setting and atmosphere The larger room holds 600, the rear room (aka the "Backstage") only about 100, so that's
sometimes turned over to dance club on the week-
ends, with a mix of synth pop, film, Brit-indie, and even If
you go A who's-who
some mod and
cult garage.
of indie rock has passed through the Black Cat, so buy
advance tickets for major concerts and expect some sweating crowds for louder
acts.
374
Entertainment and Nightlife
PartTen
BLUE GIN EURO-CHIC, RETRO-LO UNGE-LIZARD, SLEEK. DESIGNER MARTINI FACTORY
Who Goes There "New Georgetowners," NW; (202)
206 Wisconsin Avenue,
1
Cover $10
after 10 p.m.
bottle service
and
Georgetown, Zone 5
Minimum No
Mixed drinks $5-$ 2 Wine $6-$ 1
Food
available
in
drink minimum, $300
Beer $6-$9 Dress
2
1
Officially
practice, dress for success (or for dancers, bling
Slightly pricey nibblies tricked
out as tapas
Tuesday-Thursday, 6 p.m.-2 a.m.; Friday and Saturday, 6 p.m.-3 a.m.
Hours
What
965-5555
on Friday and Saturday
only no-sneakers/no-tanks rule, but
to swing)
interns and su\ts. Apprentice
circuit drinkers
wannabes, fashionistas, and
goes on Although nominally
retro club), this
we meant
it.
Much
of the cocktail
('tronic, hip-hop,
dance club downstairs
a
more bar than
is
when we
nightclub, and
house
say "designer martinis,"
created for Blue Gin by London celeb bar-
menu was
tender Antonia Andrasi, and the $10 specialty "martinis" run to such ingredients as elderflower syrup and rose water, blood oranges and watermelon, lychee nuts and passion fruit (but
all
premium).The wine
liquor brands are
a serious upscaling
is
Setting and atmosphere Downstairs stools and candlelight; upstairs
quettes, projection
DVDs
Vreeland might
the
If
you go
It's
say,
is
a sort of
Zen
disco den, with Asian-looking
a serious-business bar with leather sofas and ban-
is
—
as Diana
black.
best to arrive unfashionably early, not only to escape the cover charge
hour Or use
should walk
doesn't yet measure up, but
(on the building wall next door) and red walls
new
but because the upstairs ing
list
promised.
it
down
to
up (and the bouncer bars the door) well before the witch-
fills
mid-week warmup. Fans of even more elaborate
as
Mie
NYu
at
3125
M
Street,
fantasy decor
where every room has
a different
dreamscape.
BLUES ALLEY NATIONAL-CIRCUIT JAZZ DINNER CLUB
Who Goes There 1
073 Wisconsin Avenue,
Georgetown, Zone
Cover Varies
_____„____™.-™™™™—..™™.--~~-
-
20-60; locals a nd tourists; other jazz pros; neo-jazz fans
NW
(in
the
alley);
(202) 337-4 14
1;
vwm.bluesalley.com
5
with entertainment; $ 3-$50 1
Minimum Two
drinks or
$7 food Mixed
drinks $4-$7.50 Wine $3.50-$5 Beer $3-$5 Dress Jacket over jeans, business attire, musician chic Food available Full menu of semi-Creole food: gumbo, chicken, steak
Hours
Every day, 6 p.m.-midnight.
What goes on When the play.
And
although
big-name jazz performers
many customers grumble about
come
to town, this
is
where they
ticket prices, they pay
anyway—
rents are partly because the acts require high guarantees, partly because Georgetown high,
and partly because so many other jazz clubs have folded.
Setting and atmosphere form
at
one end and the bar
A
fairly
simple lounge, with exposed brick walls, a plat-
at the other,
and smallish dinner tables scattered between.
Clubs and Nightspots
Profiles of
If
you go Get
come and rooms
there early; the
line
375
often goes around the block, and seating
squeeze-'em-together, even with reservations.
that are barely accessible upstairs are
The
old and
one drawback, and the
is
first-
cramped
rest
ventilation can be
another, but the acoustics are very good.
BRICKSKELLER ENCYCLOPEDIC BEER RATHSKELLER
Who Goes There 1
523 22nd Street,
home
2 —45; students; former students; 1
NW; (202)
brewers; beer fanatics
293- 885; www.thebrickskeller.com 1
Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan, Zone 6
Cover None Minimum None Mixed drinks $3.50-$8 Wine $4.50-$6.50 Beer $5-$8.50 Dress Jackets, jeans, khakis Specials Special urday after 7 p.m.
Food
general, and the kitchen stays
open almost
Hours Monday-Thursday,
:30 a.m.-2 a.m.; Friday,
I
1
p.m.-3 a.m.; Sunday. 6 p.m.-2 a.m.
What
goes on Almost
bottled, later, all
in
drafts upstairs Friday
available The house specialty
half a
is
buffalo;
and Sat-
good pub food
in
as long as the bar.
Metro Dupont
I
1
:30 a.m.-3 a.m.; Saturday, 6
Circle
century ago, Maurice Coja put 50 kinds of beer, mostly
the basement of the Marifex Hotel and opened for business. Twenty years
he had to give up kegs because
room was
so
tight,
and now, with
1
,000 beers from
over the world offered at the same time, including over 100 microbrews, brands and
cans are stuffed into every cornerThe Brickskeller used to offer
rock variety but eventually realized the beer was
live
music of the folk-
sufficient entertainment.
There are
dart boards and a jukebox instead.
Setting and atmosphere
A
rabbit
warren of rooms, with the main bar
in
the front
and scuffed and hard-working tables snaking around between the dart boards. Feel free to strike up a conversation; the Brickskeller
and If
is
unpretentious, college-bar friendly,
lively.
you go Don't be
learn a lot
if
you go
shy; consult the staff.
by-the-fireside beer of 14
Metro
is
nearby.) Skip the
Beer
% alcohol. (The good mixed beer
is
serious business here and you can
and work your way up to Samiclaus, a potent
slowly. Start light
news
cocktails,
or
is
the kitchen
is
beer-tails; they're
open
late,
more
and the
novelty act
than revelation.
BUFFALO BILLIARDS PART BIZ-WHIZ
POOL
Who Go es There 1
330
1
9th Street,
PARTY, PART SINGLES
BAR (OVER 2
I
ONLY)
Junior associates: postgrads; bar pros
NW; (202)
33 -7665 Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan, 1
Zone
6
Cover None Minimum None for bars or people-watching; to play, $6 per player per hour Mixed drinks $3.25-$6 Wine $3.50-$4 Beer $3.25-$6.50 Dress Mix of officewear and jock chic; as
many
lace-ups as high-rises Specials
Happy hour 4-8 p.m.
weekdays; 1-7 p.m. Saturday; 4-7 p.m. Sunday, with beer specials and wine and drinks for $2.50
Food
course), sandwiches
— but
available Mostly small plates also
some
fairly
— nachos,
buffalo
rail
wings (of
serious entrees such as tuna steak and trout
376
Entertainment and Nightlife
PartTen
Hours Monday-Thursday, 4 p.m.-2 a.m.; Friday, 4 a.m. Metro Dupont Circle
Sunday, 4 p.m.-
What
p.m.-3 a.m.; Saturday,
I
p.m.-3 a.m.;
1
Parties circulate, singles practice their shots, and couriers wait for
goes on
assignments.
Setting and atmosphere This indulgences pool halls
page 367), but parlors, with
it's
two
gadget-happy. And
If
just
one of the busiest and
it's
one of
a half-dozen upscale, all-the-modern-
owners' half-dozen
largest, the flagship of its
rooms (one smoking, one nonsmoking) and
entire
waiting customers to their tables.
ioned speakeasy
is
over the area (see the section "Espresso and Eight-ball" on
all
one
level
It's
woodyish
down from
—
vibrators to alert
Buffalo Bill-iards,get
the street, which gives
it
it?
—but not too
a sort of old-fash-
quality.
you go Don't worry about your pool
skills
particularly, unless you're
hoping to
shark someone; a lot of the patrons are pleasure-seekers, not pros, and they won't be looking over your shoulder.The main thing
someone a shot
first, it's
is
to watch
where
cue or back into the player at the next
else's
table,
you're going: Don't knock
and
if
that player lines up
his/her right of way, so to speak.
CHI'CHA LOUNGE PART
NEIGHBORHOOD
AND CIGAR LOUNGE WITH A FEW
CAFE, PART LATINO-CHIC JAZZ
"exotic" touches
Who Goe s There 1
624
U
Street,
20-30-sonnething regulars; Latino internationals
NW; (202)
234-8400
Dupont
Circle/ Adams-Morgan,
Zone 6
Cover None Minimum One drink or menu item Mixed drinks $4-$9 Wine $4_$6.50 Beer $3-$5 Dress Business, light cocktail and nice casual; see below Specials Ask a server Food available "Modern Andean" fare, mostly tapas-sized snacks
Hours Sunday-Thursday, Metro U Street/Cardoza
What
goes on This
5:30 p.m.-2 a.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 p.m.-3 a.m.
offbeat but endearing hangout, the "hacienda" of local entre-
preneur Mauricio Fraga-Rosenfeld (Ozio, Gazuza,
etc.), offers a
few exotic
indul-
gences to homesick internationals, such as the arguileh (hookah-like water pipes for smoking fruit-cured tobacco) for Middle Easterners, popped giant corn kernels and glasses of the
eponymous
chi-cha, a spicy, fruit and rice alcohol traditional in Latin
America.
Setting and atmosphere Sort of rec-room casbah. "Couch potato" here means a from flamenco guilittle tamal snack on the sofa.The music is frequently live, and ranges tar to Latin jazz to Euro-jazz standards,
Buena Vista If
Social
you go The
and
visiting
Club have been known to drop
dress code
is
pretty
men, no athletic wear, no printed as per the owner's
own
T's,
much no
in
pros such as the Gipsy Kings and after their
shows.
the formal standard nowadays:
tanks, "no attitudes"
— but no
No
hats for
neckties, either,
preferences.
DAVE & BUSTER'S
^l:^>^^%^^^>^ ^:.^:^<J:h^<^ >;„ v'>
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT A LA SPIELBERG— PART HIGH-TECH, PART RETRO-REGRESSIVE
:'
and Nightspots
Profiles of Clubs
Who Goes There gic for Vegas;
377
Late-20s couples bored with disco; traveling salesmen nostal-
some computer geeks and groups
of mixed-sex hangers looking for
post-movie action
White
Flint Mall,
Bethesda; (30
Maryland suburbs, Zone
230-5 151; www.daveandbusters.com
) 1
OB
I
Cover $5 weekends after 10 p.m. Minimum None Mixed drinks $5-$7 Wine $3.50-$5.75 Beer $2.75-$5.25 Dress Upper shopping mall-quality: casual, but no tanks, cutoffs, etc.
A full
available
Specials Half-price
rail
Food
drinks and beer specials at happy hour
range of familiar upscale suburban
from artichoke
fare:
dip and stuffed
jalapenos to pastas, grilled salmon, Sante Fe chicken pizza, and ribs and rib-eyes
Hours Sunday-Wednesday, a.m.; Sunday,
What
I
goes on This
tables, pinball
is
There are
a.m.-l
11:30
Flint
a carnival of the business animals: a half-dozen pocket billiard shuffle-
pods, interlinked for games and sports simula-
full-size virtual-reality
also casino games, with fully trained blackjack dealers and tables
the poker chips are "on loan" only.
by token
a.m.-midnight; Thursday-Saturday,
Metro White
and video games, a couple of simulated "19th hole" golf games,
board, and four tion.
11:30
1:30 a.m.-midnight.
in fact,
except the
No
actual gambling
virtual-reality pods.
On
is
allowed. Everything
Fridays and Saturdays,
is
it's
—but
played
murder
mystery dinner theater
Setting and atmosphere This
is
unabashedly a bar as well as a playroom, with two
"midway"
sideline bars: the double-sided, 40-foot bar that partners the
interactive video
to mention the private
"showroom" with
audio-visual equipment, which If
you go
got
it
This
is
Dave &
down smooth.
fairly strict rules
(a stretch
of
and carny attractions); and the elevated, square "Viewpoint" bar (not
is
own
its
status
CEO
about drinking and dressing, and even
limited (even cigarettes only
where
party
room
of D.C.).
complex around the country, and they've
Buster's ninth such
Besides offering nearly every sort of game,
year-olds being with an adult. Even better
and even
stage, bar, dining tables,
bound to become the
in this
it
has polished service,
stricter rules
about under-21-
cigar-crazed era, smoking
is
extremely
allowed).
DREAM FOUR-STORY,
MANHATTAN -STYLE SUPER-LOUNGE
Who Goes There
Friends,
Seinfelds looking for love 1
350 Okie
Cover
Street,
Sex
in all
in
the City sophisticates,
NE; (202) 636-9030
$10; sometimes free with promotion
Northeast,
I
I
p.m., give
and even
or take an hour)
Food
Zone 8
Mixed drinks $5-$8 Wine $5-$7 Beer
$3-$5 Dress Trendy; they hosted an Armani (before
Damon Wayans
the lounge places
fashion
show Specials Free cover
available Entrees
like
early
crabcakes and jerk
chicken from Republic Gardens chef Lois Spencer
Hours Thursday 9
What
p.m.-3 a.m.; Friday and Saturday 9
goes on Thursdays
is
p.m.^
usually international night,
a.m.
and the crowd
and elegant. Weekends are a mix of soul/R&B, hip-hop, and even a yuppie (Fridays) and buppie (Saturdays)
level rises
and
falls.
little
is
very mixed
trance, as the
378
Entertainment and Nightlife
PartTen
Setting and atmosphere This and a luxury
ambiance
lighting.
wall bars and a
land:
a post-millennial Studio 54
somewhere between
is
paneling, leather lounge chairs, plush carpeting and
magohany
Besides the four dance
halls,
room, neary wall-to-
there's a billiard
deck for cooling down.The fourth floor
is
even available for private par-
mere $5,000.
ties for a
If you go
Seriously dress to impress here; even P-Diddy
door
at this
on
liner
No
wear This
athletic
is
would have to shed the jeans
a "revitalizing" neighborhood, but there
parking or shuttle service from nearby secured
is
valet
lots.
DUBLINER CLASSIC IRISH PUB
Who Goes There
Hill
workers, both upwardly mobile
(senators and lobbyists)
520 North Capitol
(staffers)
and established
______„
NW; (202)
Street,
737-3773
Capitol
Hill,
Zone 2
Cover None Minimum None Mixed drinks $3.25-$6; Dubliner coffee is an coffee with Bailey's added. Wine $4-$5.50 Beer $3-$4 Dress No cutoffs or tops Specials Reduced light-fare prices, for lunch and dinner
Food
available
I
Irish
Hours Monday-Thursday, 7 a.m.-2 a.m.; 7:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Metro Union Station
What leader
goes on This
—
centrally
is
not the oldest
p.m.-
I
pub
from stew to hot sandwiches
Irish
bar
in
town, but
it
providing the
has
Fittingly,
Now
Setting and atmosphere
part of the pricey and
Phoenix Hotel complex, the Dubliner carved walnut bar by the surviving
in
is
filled
If
the back room.The front bar
members
where the tweeds
you go Be
of the Dubliner's
filled
week
with
parties.
hunt-country gracious
is
louder and
Irish football in
often populated
livelier,
and soccer teams; the snug
is
the finest tradition; and the par-
gather.
sure to have at least one Guinness on draft:The Dubliner pours an esti-
mated quarter-million (the high ceilings carry political
Times next
with antiques, such as the 1810 hand-
a discreet heads-together, take-no-names hideaway is
Irish
St. Patrick's
clan
ground for
the Dubliner also has one of the most colorful histories,
romantic intrigue, boom-and-bust bank troubles, and riotous
lor
become the
training
founders of a half-dozen other bars, including the semi-sibling-rival
door
Monday-Friday
a.m.; daily specials
Friday and Saturday, 7 a.m.-3 a.m.; Sunday,
pol-connected, and
located,
1
classics,
Irish
tank
pints a year
Drop by the
smoke away) and the
Irish
Times next door for a breather
Finnegans
Wake
conversation, and interns' rave downstairs.Then
call
crazy quilt of literary and a cab. Please.
l^ALF MOON BAR-B-Q RETRO-ROADHOUSE WITH ROOTS ROCK/ROCKABILLY/BLUES BAR
Who
Goes There Beer buddies,Top 40 radio
borhood
IN
THE BACK
fugitives, off-duty musicians, neigh-
families
8235 Georgia Avenue; (30
Cover None-$l5 Wine
)
585- 290 1
Maryland suburbs. Zone
I
OC
1
$3.50
Beer $4-$5 Dress Anything
goes, from post-softball
and Nightspots
Profiles of Clubs
work
to fter
shirtsleeves to punk-country
pulled-pork sandwiches,
Hours
smoked
swank Food available
Ribs,
379
hot wings,
chicken, hamburgers
Tuesday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-
a.m.; Friday
1
and Saturday, 5 p.m.-3 a.m.
Metro
Sil-
ver Spring
What goes on
Top
and some national
local, regional cult
rockabilly, roots, blues, cajun
and occasionally zydeco acts
New
Setting and atmosphere Designed to evoke a bar/diner has a corrugated
tin bar,
ette-style booths; the back music
Orleans roadhouse, the front
hot-sauce-red pressed-tin
room
is
and old luncheon-
ceiling,
basement rec-room
basic.
not truly finger pickin' territory The food
good
If
you go
if
not great, and pretty cheap; the bar stocks 50 or so brands of beer and three or four
on
Relax, this
and the music
tap,
original Twist
is
is
& Shout
finger-lickin',
prime
—
as
if
is
one would hope from owner Marc Gretschel, whose of the
same name.
Hard Rock memorabilia
collectors;
Mary Chapin Carpenter song
club inspired the
HARD ROCK CAFE SOUVENIR SHOP DISGUISED AS BARBECUE BAR
Who Goes There 999 E
1
2-55; tourists and
locals;
experts
air-guitar
Street,
______^__
NW; (202)
The National
737-7625
Mall,
Cover None Minimum None Mixed drinks $7-$ Dress To be
Zone
Wine
8
I
$6-$
1
Beer $3-$7
5
seen: pony-print leather, denim, sports or rock-and-roll tour jackets, busi-
ness attire, creative black ingly
1
tie,
Bermuda shorts (on
tourists)
Food
available Surpris-
good
Hours
Sunday-Thursday,
I
I
a.m.-
1
I
p.m.; Friday
and Saturday,
I
I
a.m.-
1
a.m.
Metro
Metro Center
What goes on
Despite the name,
this
is
not actually a club
100 Hard Rocks around the world, each of which takes is
its
Rock
the "Embassy" and sometimes the "Smithsonian of
rotating the nearly 7,000 pieces of music history
shop, with
packed
—
a
its
signature T-shirts,
doorman
is
as
the
in
busy as the
— nor does
HRC
bar,
it
rock.
nickname from the 'n'
One
of
site, this
Roll," taking its
turn
collection. The souvenir
which
is
often stand-in-line
passes judgment on the hopeful.
Setting and atmosphere This
is
ersatz nostalgia for the second Rolling Stone gen-
eration, with a bar designed like a piano, half of a pink Cadillac (sort of a franchise sig-
nature) hanging from the ceiling, and a lot of fed suits from nearby buildings trying to
look cool. Hard Rock also makes a point of being Lollapalooza-era PC, supporting the
Walden Project and nuclear
freezes and hosting radio-chic benefits and post-concert
VIP receptions, usually without the star If
you go
Pick up the guidebook, formally
known
as the
"Hard Rock Cafe
Self-
Motivating Non-Nuclear-Powered Memorabilia Tour of the World's Foremost Rock
Look
for such treasures as
Bo
'n'
Diddley's
Roll
Museum" and
first
jerry-rigged electric guitar, Michael Jackson's glittering kneepad.and a stained-glass
start circling the balcony.
triptych featuring Elvis, Jerry Lee Lewis, and Little Richard.
380
Entertainment and Nightlife
PartTen
THE IMPROV NATIONAL-CIRCUIT COMEDY CLUB
Who Goes There
Visiting business types; 30ish suburbanites;
25-45 midlevel
managers I
NW; (202)
140 Connecticut Avenue,
Downtown, Zone
296-7008; www.dcimprov.com
3
Cover $ 0-$25, according to performer Minimum Two items Mixed drinks $4-$8 $5-$7 Beer $3-$4 Dress T-shirts with jacl<ets, suits, casual yup attire Specials Tuesday, free admission to anyone wearing an improv T-shirt ($12 in the lobby) Food 1
Wine
available
as available before the 8:30 p.m. show, but light fare
menu described
Full
whenever; standard
available
one-size-fits-all
menu
with chicken cordon bleu, prime
rib,
catch of the day, Caesar salad, etc.
Tuesday-Thursday, 7-1
Hours at
I
p.m.; Friday
8 p.m.and 10:30 p.m. (Friday and Saturday).
What
goes on
Standard Improv franchise
and Saturday, 6:30 p.m.-l2:30 a.m. Shows
Metro fare:
Farragut North or
A
short opening
Dupont
act,
Circle
often local; a
semi-established feature act; and a headliner from the national club/cable showcase cuit.
However,
like
many comedy
extended bookings of more Jack
Gallagher, who perform
clubs, the
theatrical
Improv
increasingly
cir-
dependent on
comics such as Rob 'The Caveman" Becker or
alone for 90 minutes or
Setting and atmosphere Again,
is
this
so.
goes with the franchise
—
a "brick wall" stage
sentimentally recalling the original no-frills Improvisation, and the black-and-white
checkerboard floor and trim that
is
practically a logo design.
TV
screens hang overhead
for those with obscured views, but they're not big enough to be terribly useful.The wait staff If
wear tux-material Bermuda
you go Don't bother to
order of
arrival isn't apt to
shorts.
come
early, at least
on weeknights, when being seated
in
be a problem. Since latecomers are usually seated amongst
the diners, you have no real reason to seek early reservations. Besides, nibbling through
the appetizers sitting
list is
a
more
satisfying
experience than
sitting
down
through the show. The Improv, though below sidewalk
access via the elevator
in
to dinner and then
level,
has wheelchair
the building lobby
mm,,mm «:.;«».— «»:# myswmmimm
itiilliKliillilil
IOTA NEIGHBORHOOD TAVERN JOINT WITH SMART CONVERSATION AND ROCK ^
Who Goes There
LIVE
NEW-POP ROOTS
Messengers; students; thirtysomething T-shirts; microbrew-
savvy beer buddies; other musicians
2832 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington; (703) 522-8340
Cover
rail
1
1
some shows free Minimum None Mixed drinks $3-$ 10 Beer $3-$8.50 Dress Jeans, with or without bolo; hog leathers; baggy
wear; and frayed button-down collars Specials Happy hour 5-8 p.m., $1
and draft prices
Food
off
available Freestyle, eclectic pub food but far better than
most: Asian spicy beef, tuna steak, black pepper-doused french
Hours
Zone
Wine
varies,
$3.50-$4.50 athletic
Virginia suburbs,
Every day, 5 p.m.-2 a.m.
fries.
Metro Clarendon or Courthouse
—
A Profiles of
Clubs and Nightspots
1
38
What goes on On a regular basis, this has the best lineup of acoustic rock, neo-roots. soft psychedelic,
who
and eclectic melodic rock
town, and
in
it's
the quality of the people
run the shows, both before and behind the scenes, that makes
When
dorn holds the open mike on Wednesdays. likely
to find
hometown
favorite Kevin
Setting and atmosphere tionally
In a
time
town,
he's in
Johnson hosting songwriters'
when
a lot of
mismatched rec-room random look,
where you're
is
nights.
Washington bars have an
decor
lota's
Steve Hage-
so.
it
this
is
murals, geometric eyecatchers chiseled into the exposed brick walls, and
show the age erwise). The
of the neighborhood (especially nice, since there's so
room used
to be only half this
size,
If
you go
This
is
good
a
beams that
of
little
but giving the performers
elbow room has not made either the musicians or
inten-
unusual but intelligent
it
oth-
left
some
extra
their audiences self-conscious.
place to strike up a conversation at the bar before the music
gets loud: you run into crossword puzzle freaks, novelists, doctoral candidates, musicians, roadies,
and ponytails of the friendly
sort.
It's
the sort of bar that makes hanging
out a pleasure.
JAMMIN'JAVA ALL-AGES ALT-ROCK COFFEHOUSETO THE MAX, WITH ROCK, A LITTLE PUNK, COUNTRY, FOLK, AND BLUES, AND EVEN THE
ODD JUG BAND
Who Goes There musical
Unreconstructed hard-folk boomers, fannily hop efuls, eclectic-minded 20-somethings
227 Maple Avenue, East Vienna; (703) 255- 566;
Virginia suburbs.
1
Cover $5-$20,
Wine $7 Beer mom and Land's End
according to performer
mostly jean therapy but also
softball
Wraps and sandwiches,"gourmet
Hours Monday-Thursday,
chilis"
7 a.m.-
1
I
and
Zone
$4-$5 Dress Easy men's jeans
Food
1
1
listening,
available
espresso drinks
salads, plus
p.m.; Friday,
diners, mid-life
7 a.m. -midnight; Saturday, 8 a.m.-
midnight; Sunday, 9 a.m.- 10 p.m.
What goes on Two or three sets of music per night, mostly local regional and college-circuit acts and
open-mike Mondays
Setting and atmosphere This
one of the
fortably snug L-shaped
and the music
room
room
is
area's
(also a recording studio)
ers, If
the Brindleys,
who
you go There
is
are recording their
somewhat
limited seating
often SRO, but nobody's a stranger here;
be better to come
early, eat
own
it's
(maybe grab a
LULU'S NIGHT CLUB
some good
most promising venues,
with bar and food counter
in
a
com-
front with a handful of tables
around the
smoking, family-friendly version of a music club, and
but with
side. This
in fact it's
is
an all-ages, no-
owned by three
broth-
alt-country album there. in
the music room, and the crowd
a nice mix. Since
table),
you can eat
all
day,
it
and save the espresso for the show.
«i**«^
MARDI GRAS SINGLES BAR/SEMI-OLDIES DISCO
Who Goes There
25-45;
office fugitives; last-chance bachelorettes;
lege jocks
1217 22nd Street,
NW; (202)
86 -5858; www.lulusclub.com 1
Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan, Zone 6
is
may
former
col-
382
Entertainment and Nightlife
PartTen
Cover $5-$
punk Specials Happy hour boys, bar fare,
sometimes crawfish and
Metro Dupont
Circle
What goes on
This
beginning at 4 p.m., begin to
fry, it
is
available
cow-
Gumbo, etouffee,po'
half-shells
a pack-'em-in lunch spot, catering to nearby office workers, but
the Dixieland band "promenades" and the appetizer baskets
when
becomes
a
permanent
party. In the three DJ areas, the
boomers who used to patronize the bar
40, for the early
was
Food
daily
$4-$8
Sunday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-l:30 a.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m.-2:30 a.m.
Hours
it
change
specials
drinl<s
prep, after-office hours, Cajun
$4-$7 Beer $4-$6 Dress Georgetown
^jne
Top
Minimum None Mixed
according to performer
5,
1
music ranges from
when
nearly 20 years ago
Deja Vu, to techno and hip-hop. Actually, after the complex's recent
first called
removation, the lounge became DejaVu again, and dancing here really
A
Setting and atmosphere
re-created corner of
Bourbon
is
deja vu.
Street, with the restau-
rant area authentically accessorized with wrought-iron balcony and the glittering carnival
queen gown that the owner's mother.
procession. There's a garden-style dining
room
Lulu,
wore
the
in
1962 Mardi Gras
reminiscent of Brennan's conservatory,
and the multiple bar and informal dance rooms form a warren of exposed brick
walls,
bare-board floors, and mahogany bars. If
you go Try
arriving during
happy hour to avoid the cover and enjoy the
specials.
MCCXXUl GEN-X/GEN-TECHS VERSION OF CONSPICUOUS CHAMPAGNE CHIC
Who Goes There tious
comm ittee
Embassy/buppie/Euro
staff,
NW; (202)
223 Connecticut Avenue,
1
slicks;
white
collar/-tie associates;
ambi-
trust fund babies
Dupont
822- 800 1
Circle/ Adams-Morgan,
Zone 6 Cover None drinks $6-$
about $ 5 after 10 p.m. on event nights
early, 1
1
Wine $6-$8 Beer $4-$6 Dress One
around, and old-fashioned
Food
doormen
Hours
Tuesday-Thursday, 4 p.m.-2 a.m.;
Metro
Farragut
What goes on Once the cocktail swing-your-VIP, with a mix of
Setting and atmosphere 1
223, the street address)
Mixed
so stalk the stalk as you talk the talk
rant downstairs,
is
you go
is
4 p.m.-2
Now
a.m.; Saturday,
6 p.m.-3 a.m.;
Circle
hour conventions are observed, the club goes showand even Top 40 music.
a three-story complex,
MCCXXXIII
industrial chic for the titanium-card
champagne lounge
Sleek and breezy
Friday,
North or Dupont
disco, house, reggae
floor.
(cute-speak for
crowd: caviar bar restau-
upstairs, catwalk to glide over,
dance club-within-a-club on the third
If
it,
drink
I
available Happy hour S-9 p.m.Tuesdays,Thursdays and Fridays
Sunday, 8 p.m.-2 a.m.
ily
to enforce
Minimum
of the strictest dress codes
and
now
You can even reserve your
boudoir-style
favorite couch.
the atmosphere, and that goes for the lit-within fabric dividers.
Definitely hit the
Remember that this
is
ATM; you'll need
lavish tip
cash as well as your credit cards.
only one of a half-dozen hotspots at this intersection, including the
subterranean Red and Andalu;see the description of the 18th Street nighdife intersection in
the introduction to this chapter
Profiles of
Clubs and Nightspots
383
W"
NATION THREE-RING CIRCUS OF THEATRICALLY PRODUCED DANCE-TILL- YOU-TRANCE MUSIC
Who Goes There
1
8-35; electronica fans; club
1015 Half Street. SE; (202) 554- 500
kids;
Southeast.
1
curious revelers
Zone 9
Cover $10-$ 5. according to perfornner Minimum None Mixed drinks $4-$8 $4-$6 Beer $3-$5 Dress Varies widely, from jeans and tees to outlandish club1
Wine
wear Food available
Hours
What
Every
day,
No
7 p.m.-2 a.m.
(officially)
goes on Depending on the
and even Goth events, with guest
night,
up to 2.000 fans of
rave, synthpop, house, gay
from international-circuit DJs and the odd drag
stints
queen.
Setting and atmosphere Counting the outdoor deck, three separate dance clubs operate with professional ing If
you go Dress
cially
lighting,
sound and mix equipment, with bars and lounge
seat-
about.
all
to your groove, which can
on late-Saturday "Velvet"
nights,
when
mean anything from
black leather
the gay dancers congregate
—to
—
espe-
black Boss
to black chiffon.
9:30 NATIONAL-NAME
LIVE ALTERNATIVE, PROGRESSIVE.
Who Goes There ical
types; couriers;
815V
8-35;
new
nnusic hopefuls; postgrads;
polit-
Wine
Downtown, Zone 7
393-0930; www.930.com
with entertainment, from $5 to as
drinks $4-$5.25
young media and
cowpunks
NW; (202)
Street,
Cover Varies
1
SEMI-PUNK ROCK MUSIC CLUB
$4.50-$6.50
much
as
$40
Minimum None Mixed
Beer $3.25-$4.25 Dress Grunge,
imitation
grunge, rhinestone cowboy, leftover businesswear, knife-customized athletic wear, black jersey, black
spandex, black denim, and black baggies
Food
available Tex-Mex and bar-
becue fare
Hours
Sunday-Thursday. 7:30 p.m.-until close; Friday and Saturday, 9 p.m.-until close
Metro U
Street
What goes on moved
"9:30"
is
the name,
into an old gospel music hall
used to be the address (before the former club
it
and radio broadcast
site),
showtime, but thanks to workday hangovers, mid-week music
most important
arguably Washington's cert
get
work
might see
from new bands
eclectic
is
booking of breaking
a real prize. In
A
slightly
—but
"quiet
room" and
acts,
any given month, you
trendy mix of leftover cornices, pilasters, virtue-
of-necessity exposed steel trusses, and dropped lighting lines.
is
major con-
BoDeans, or funk patriarch George Clinton.
Setting and atmosphere
with great sight
used to be the
as their reputations rise. Promising local bands fight to
as first acts here; a headliner contract Liz Phair, the
it
starts at 8:30.This
club, the loss-leader indulgence of
promoter Seth Hurwitz. who. with daring and
fosters loyalty
and
now
The
still
theatrically dark,
balconies are fine, and there are several bars, including one
a nostalgic, grungier
one downstairs.
384 If
you go
one
Entertainment and Nightlife
PartTen
Find out who's playing:The
crowd that pays up
Crenshaw or Happy Mondays
for Marshall
for IceT isn't the
—or They Might Be
same
as the
Giants, or even
Anthrax. Never accuse Hurwitz of lacking a sense of humor.
OZIO TREND -HAPPY, NEOCON MARTINI AND CIGAR LOUNGE
Who Goes There
Ash-kissing Standard & Poor's and Rat Pack-chic wannabes, but with only standard pickup lines and a limited grasp of the inside-the-Beltway gossip they dish; nouveau riche-makers 1
8
1
3
M
Street,
NW; (202)
822-6000; wv^^.oziodc.com
European-cut jackets and Nicole Miller
menswear or Eurotrash
tapas" that are
more
ties (especially
skinny-fits for
the ones with martini glasses);
women Food
available "American
Middle Eastern crostini, but interesting; a short
like
3
Wine $5-$9 Beer $5 Dress
Cover None Minimum None Mixed drinks $6-$ 10 Imitation
Downtown, Zone
menu
of
entrees, primarily steaks and seafood
Hours Monday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-2 a.m.; Metro Farragut North or Dupont Circle
What
goes on Posturing
doing nothing"
—
hanging,
in
Friday, 5
for fun and profit. The
p.m.-3 a.m.; Saturday, 6 p.m.-3 a.m.
name
is
other words.The action starts
gradually shifts into Euro-Latin and,
on the highest
for "the act of
Italian slang in
a lounge-lizard style, and
levels (that's
the third and fourth
floors to you), hip-hop, house, and trance.
Setting and atmosphere This
is
actually
what a
cigar-and-martini lounge ought to
look like:Tuscan red sponged walls; a sleek, glass-walled, walk-in cigar
row
cocktail tables for noshing
and Deco-ish
light fixtures
and ashing, set
off
designed to suggest the Paris Metro.
It is,
in fact,
from the sidewalk, which makes even more atmospheric sense. Ozio night jazz If
on Monday-Wednesday
you go
nights,
is
downstairs
trying out late-
even more Parisian electric guitar
Bring your gold and platinum cards: the martinis are long and strong and
cost between $8 and $10, while the cigars run $8 to $50.There ing
vault; lots of low,
with recycled wrought-iron fencing
room. And carry a
lot of business cards, too: This
is
is
one smoke-free
din-
turning into a network center
for up-and-coming lobbyists and credit card sharks.
PLATINUM DISCO BALL GLITTERING
Who Goes There 915 F
Street,
IN
IN
THE BASEMENT
Younger internationals
NW; (202)
Downtown, Zone
THE MAIN HALL. LATIN SHARKSKIN GLITTERING
393-3555; wvvw.platinumclubdc.com
3
Cover Free early, then $5-$ 5 Minimum None Mixed drinks $4-$8 Wine $5-$7 Beer $3-$5 Dress Trendy Specials Vary Food available Sushi (what else?) 1
Metro Metro Center
Hours
Thursday-Sunday. 10 p.m.-3 a.m.
What
goes on Despite changing names
a couple of times (Fifth
may have survived to become the grande dame
ally
the entry-level club for would-be sophisticates. Thursday
you
a discount), Friday
is
Column, the Bank),
of D.C. neo-discos, and
this
is
is
tradition-
College Night (ID gets
old-fashioned Ladies' Night (Cinderellas get
in
free
till
mid-
Profiles of Clubs
Saturday
night).
is
and Nightspots
385
and Sunday are heavier, with hip-hop
just a trancy free-for-all. Tuesday
the dominant beat.
A
Setting and atmosphere
fomer bank. Platinum
and marble flooring, and
a lavish chandelier
has the prosperous look, with
still
sound system to match. Four floors
a
counting the VIP lounge con fireplace, and balconies to be scene
candy and cigars to both If
you go Dress code
most the better
Home
Nightclub
at 91
F Street,
I
sell
clubs these days, so college studio
the faux-cool for the fashion chic. Get
hour to save money and shoetime outside.
club.net), a
Concessions
in.
and guys.
here, as with
dump
or congressional aide, ing
girls
NW
the
If
line's
too
long,
in
before the witch-
check out the nearby
(phone (202) 638-4663; v^ww.homenight
new and very promising weekends-only annex from
the same management.
TAKOMA STATION TAVERN CLASSICALLY MINDED BUPPIE JAZZ BAR
Who GoesThere
25-55; mixed media types; yuppies; buppies; other musicians
6914 Fourth
NW; (202)
Street,
829- 999; www.takomastation.com 1
Upper Northwest, Zone 7
Cover $5 Minimum None Mixed drinks strong enough to
Dress
Suits
$4-$8.50; their Long Island Iced Tea
make you confuse your geography.
and nice dresses; jeans, but with a
jacket;
Wine
no
cutoffs;
no tennis shoes Spe-
Happy hour 4-8 p.m. weekdays Food available Southern-style
cials
is
$3.50-$7 Beer $3-$5
fried chicken,
greens, meatloaf, ribs
Hours
Metro
Sunday-Thursday, 4 p.m.-l:30 a.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4 p.m.-2 a.m.
Takoma
What
goes on Cocktail conversation here
profile area pros
—
jam
begin, the attention level
taciturn
is
Bobby Boyd,
this
is
pretty good.
A true
once the performers
neighborhood
—
who drop
joint
owned
highin
to
by the
bar was one of the nightspots that helped revitalize the
untrendy side of Takoma Park without changing
Setting and atmosphere This fully,
loud, but
and often national-rank musicians passing through
building, a
with exposed brick, see-through
room
its
character
former boxing gym, wears
dividers that
its
make the bar an
age grace-
integral part
of the stage area, and just a handful of hanging plants. if
you go Don't be
demonstrative, especially
if
you arrive
nightside schedule and like to start mellow. Don't in
after production hours.
Sunday
is
change-up
gawk
night,
early; the
at the
with
Boyds
media types
live
live
on the
who come
reggae and a
slightly
younger crowd.
YACHT CLUB OF BETHESDA SECOND-CHANCE
SINGLES BAR
Who GoesThere
AND RETRO DISCO
28-55; platinum cards and platinum blondes; the monied and
the alimonied
8111 WoodmontAvenue,Bethesda;(30l) 654-2396;
www.yachtclubofbethesda.com
Maryland suburbs. Zone lOA
386
Entertainment and Nightlife
PartTen
Cover $5 Wednesday-Thursday, Friday happy hour 7-9 p.m. open bar $12, then $14; Saturday, $14 Minimum None Mixed drinks $4-$4.50 Wine $3-$4 Beer $3-$4.50 Dress Dress as class advertisement; big earrings, gold chains for women, too; jacket
—
and
men Food available
required for
tie
Entrees, appetizers, and sandwiches
Hours Wednesday-Thursday, 7 p.m.- a.m.; Friday, 7 p.m.-2 a.m.; Metro Medical Center or Bethesda 1
Saturday, 8 p.m.-2
a.m. Closed Sunday-Tuesday.
What
goes on Upper, upper-middle, and upper-ambitious
sion denial eye their conjugal options; close to 100 marital
here. This astonishingly successful mating pen, with list
to match,
is
Tommy
A
Setting and atmosphere
Matchmaker
— but one
Curtis's use of the title
metaphors for preferred rather than actual
maybe If
it
suggests the
you go
amount
Either line up before 8 p.m. or wait
Coco
waiting line
many who
in
little
Bethesda, which
do, shouldn't), get
is
till
about
down
company
in
"commodore," are
I
I
Or
the hatch.
.This
the sort of place that
is
Chanel; you can be rich and thin enough, but
or too black.The Yacht Club boasts the only black-tie
sort of a
in line
self-fulfilling
prophecy.
at the pool table.
Or
If
you don't dance (and
just plunk yourself
the bar with a drink; the soft-hearted Curtis, an inveterate yenta, for your
style that in
that belongs to a
wearing Polo sportswear
lifestyle, like
of booze that nightly goes
confuses Gloria Vanderbilt with
your dress can never be too
and burgundy deco
classy woodgrain, gray,
The name, and
prime.
his
the
suite of a luxury cruiser
does suggest the master
sportsman past
golden-oldies playlist and guest
its
the brainchild of longtime singles-bar spinmaster, flatter-patter DJ,and
trend-shift sacrificial lamb
fact
ring candidates in reces-
matches have been made
down
at
have a candidate
will
a flash.
ZANZIBAR WORLD-BEAT DISCO
Who Goes There
23^5; trade
law,
embassy, and import reps; buppies, West
African entrepreneurs, and Latin chic-sters
700 Water
Cover $5
Street,
before
SW; (202) 554-9 00
1
1
p.m.
p.m. on Friday, $ 5 after
I
1
I
I
on Wednesday and Thursday, $ I
p.m.;
$
1
Minimum None Mixed
p.m.
The National
before
I
I
p.m.
Mall, after
1
on Saturday
drinks $4-$8.50
Wine
Dress Dress to impress or advertise success: European flounces, aerobic
wear
Zone
disguised as cocktail spandex;
no
1
I
p.m.;
$
before
1
(ladies free),
I
I
$ 5 after 1
$4.75-$6 Beer $4-$5 lapels,
dresses with hip
T-shirts, jeans,
or sneakers
allowed Specials Free admission and hors d'oeuvres at happy hour, 5-7 p.m. Fridays
and 9-10 p.m. Saturdays
Hours Wednesday, day, 9
Food
5 p.m.-
1
available
a.m.;Thursday, 5 p.m.-2 a.m.; Friday, 5 p.m.-3 a.m.; Satur-
p.m.-4 a.m.; closed Sunday-Tuesday.
What
goes on
Salsa, soca,
West African menu
Full
Metro Maine Avenue
soukous, samba
salsa, reggae,
mostly on the turntable, but occasionaly with sively stylish singles bar,
live
and even go-go take turns
bands. This
is
an expansively, expen-
with potentially valuable networking as the undertone.
serious action starts after midnight; the visiting amateurs tend to turn pumpkin at
The 1
2.
Profiles of Clubs Setting and atmosphere
A sometime
and Nightspots
bureaucrats' business lunchspot,this
underground wood-and-brick conference room-setup divided into areas, with a If
mahogany bar
you go Be prepared
at the bar unless
facing both
to dance
if
and
you want to meet people; there's very
window.
little
chatter
you prove yourself (or are extremely well dressed). The downstairs
move up and down both
wave of unattached partners. Note: To prices,
a long,
larger and smaller
a lighted patio fountain outside the
mostly restaurant, with great water views; the upstairs with the flow,
is
387
is
nearly
all
dance
floor.
is
To go
an unspoken
sides of the
room; there
simplify
the tips are built into the drink
life,
which makes them something more of a bargain.
Is
tidal
Part Eleven
Exercise
and Recreation
Working Out Most of
the folks
Some
tinely.
bike,
on our
some
Unofficial
some
run,
Guide research team work out rou-
Hft weights or
do
Washington during the hot summer months,
iting
aerobics.
it
figure out that exercising in the city's fearsome heat
some problems. The best months for outdoor
While
vis-
didn't take long to
and humidity pre-
sented
exercise are
March through June and
October through December. In July and August, you must get up very early to beat the heat. January
although snow usually unless
you
get
up very
isn't
early,
and February can bring quite cold weather,
During the summer months, we recommend working out indoors. a problem.
Walking With
its
wide-open spaces, Washington
is
made
for walking. Security
is
very good along the Mall and Potomac Park, making for a safe walking
environment
A
Parks als
at all
long walk offers
hours of the day and night.
down
the Mall
and through East and West Potomac
grand views of the Lincoln, Jefferson, and
and the Washington Monument,
Potomac
as well as the
FDR Memori-
Tidal Basin and the
River. For a really long excursion, cross Arlington
Memorial
Bridge and explore Arlington National Cemetery. You can also walk
north along the river past the
Kennedy Center and
the
Thompson Boat
Center and into Georgetown.
North of the Mall, downtown is not particularly interesting or aesthetand not too safe above New York Avenue. North of the White House, Connecticut Avenue offers unlimited window-shopping at the city's ritziest shops. South of the Capitol, Fort McNair is open to ically pleasing
—
anyone who would
like to stroll
through well-kept grounds on a narrow
peninsula where the Washington Channel and the Anacostia River meet
389
390
Exercise and Recreation
Part Eleven
Metro
the Potomac: take the
to the Waterfront Station
and walk
straight
down Fourth Street, SW, to Fort McNair (not recommended after dark). Afterwards, you can stroll the waterfront marinas on Maine Avenue. Although you must drive to get there, the U.S. National Arboretum in Northeast trails
offers walkers three-and-a-half miles
Washington
winding through 444
May,
fields
of
acres
trees
and
flowering dogwood, and mountain
of azaleas,
of easy
flowers. In late April
and
laurel are in
bloom.
The Mall and
its
surrounding areas are
deceiving there, making
fairly flat,
and distances can be
easy to overextend yourself Carry
it
to buy refreshments en route and for cab or Metro
money
your hotel in case you
get too tired to
fare
enough back to
walk back.
Running Washington's wealth of parks offers plenty of options to both casual and serious joggers. Most of the better running areas are relatively flat but visually stunning.
Many
of the best paths are centrally located, close to
major in-town hotels and other late
afternoon run easy to
fit
recommend jogging
don't
attractions,
making
either a
morning or
into a busy business or touring schedule.
at night; see the section
on "How
to
We
Avoid
Crime and Keep Safe in Public Places" in Part Four, page 110. The heart of Washington and its most popular running location is the Mall, featuring packed-dirt paths. Nearby, the Ellipse (behind the White House) and the Tidal Basin Tree-shaded
good
starting point
Creek Parkway
in
is
is
a better bet during hot weather.
A
Rock Pierce Mill and
crosses over
Northwest Washington. Run north to
In Georgetown, the
what
paved pathways to run on.
where Connecticut Avenue
is
your steps for a four-mile
retrace
offers
offer
Rock Creek Park
jog.
Chesapeake
&
Ohio (C&O) Canal Towpath
probably the best running surface in town. Runners,
and hikers love this wide, dirt-pack trail that runs for miles between the scenic Potomac River and the canal. The river views are spectacular in places; the placid canal reflects the greenery alongside; and cyclists,
and locks appear at regular intervals. Mileposts along you informed of your distance. Farther up, in Marythe enormous cataract at Great Falls attracts hikers and picnickers.
historic lockhouses
the towpath keep land,
Another
river route
is
the
Mount Vernon
and goes downriver on the Virginia miles to
Run
Trail, a
paved path that
near the Lincoln Memorial, crosses Arlington Memorial Bridge,
starts
to
miles.
Mount Vernon.
side of the
Potomac
for
about 16
Unless you're a marathoner, cut this run in
half:
Ronald Reagan National Airport and back, about seven and a half In blustery fall, winter, and early spring weather, runners and
cyclists will find that the better-protected
C&O
Canal Towpath
offers
C&O
Canal
Towpath Trail (
Georgetown Center to Swains Lock
)
KILOMETERS
391
Mount Vernon Trail N
KILOMETERS
392
Working Out
393
more protection from strong winds coming off the river. Closer to downtown and the Mall, West Potomac Park is the best route in the spring, when the Japanese cherry trees are blooming around the Tidal Basin. Start near the Jefferson
loop
at the
the Jefferson
morning
Memorial, head down Ohio Drive, and make the
end of the park;
if
you've got any energy
Memorial and loop around the Tidal
continue past
left,
Go
Basin.
early in the
to beat the crowds.
Getting to the Track If your hotel
is
downtown, the Mall
is
the closest option you have with-
out driving or taking the Metro. If you're staying along the Connecticut
Avenue your
corridor,
best bets. In
Rock Creek Park and
C&O
Canal Towpath
are
Mount Vernon Trail and
the
the
Alexandria or Rosslyn, the
Washington and Old Dominion Regional Park are popular paved running paths. In suburban Maryland, Greenbelt Park offers both paved
and unpaved
surfaces to run on, as well as a one-mile fitness
ted with 20 exercise stations. Ask your
ning
trails
close to
where you're
hotel's concierge for a
trail outfit-
map
of run-
staying.
Swimming Local waters are polluted to one degree or another, so stick to your hotel
swimming
pool.
The
closest saltwater
beach
on
is
US
Sandy Point State Park 50 on the shores of the
Maryland, about an Chesapeake Bay. Atlantic Ocean beaches are a minimum three-hour drive; traffic tie-ups on summer weekends are horrendous as beachgoers hour's drive east
in
ftinnel into the
twin Chesapeake Bay bridges, where multihour backups
are routine.
Free Weights and Almost lifting
all
Elliptical
Trainers
of the major hotels have a spa or
fitness
room with weight-
equipment. For an aerobic workout, most of the
fitness
rooms
offer a stationary bicycles, a Stairmaster, or an elliptical trainer.
Fitness Centers and Aerobics Many Washington fitness centers are members-only and or short-term memberships.
The few exceptions
Company, www.thefitnesscompany.com,
are
don't offer daily
coed.
all
The
Fitness
features free weights, fixed
full range of aerobic exercise equipment including a Stairmasrowing and cycling machines, and a fijll schedule of aerobics classes. (across Washington Sports Club, at 1835 Connecticut Avenue,
weights, a ter,
NW
from the Hilton near Dupont
and
services as
information,
The
call
Fitness
Circle), offers
Company. The
(202) 332-0100.
much
the
daily rate
is
same
activities
$25. For more
394
Exercise and Recreation
Part Eleven
Tennis Washington's three pubHc tennis clubs are popular, making get a court during peak hours without a reservation.
Tennis Center, located
at
west, has 25 total courts.
The
advance. or go to
club
is
club accepts reservations up to a
open from 7 a.m.
www.rockcreektennis.com Park, features 10 clay
prime-time hours go
fast,
difficult to
16th and Kennedy Streets in Upper North-
The
to
1 1
week
in
p.m. Call (202) 722-5949
more information. on Ohio Drive
for
The East Potomac Tennis Club, Potomac
it
The Rock Creek
located
in East
and 14 hard
courts. Reservations for
and you need
to
make
reservations a
week
in
advance. Players have a good chance of getting a court without reservations
weekdays between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. Rates range from $22 to $30 A credit card deposit is required. Call (202) 554-5962 for more
an hour.
information.
Rock Creek more information.
Pierce Mill, a small tennis center located in
554-5962
clay courts. Call (202)
for
Park,
offers
Recreational Sports: Biking, Hiking, Kayaking, and So
On
Bicycling Washington cling,
from
offers flat
both on- and off-road
and easy
cruises along
Canal Towpath, to challenging
cyclists a
wide variety of bicy-
paved bike paths and the
C&O
terrain in the rolling countryside
of
nearby Virginia and Maryland. In early spring
warmers
to
tures range
summer
and
late fall, cyclists
keep off the
chill.
should wear riding tights and arm
From May through October,
from comfortable
to scorching
—
the tempera-
predictably the latter
on
afternoons. Listen to weather forecasts for predictions of after-
noon thunderstorms
in the late
best season for cycling
summer; they can be fearsome.
around Washington, with
a riot of color as the leaves turn in
mid-
Washington's mild climate offers at
warm enough
to induce cyclists to
A variety of bicycles
to late October.
least a
jump on
Fall
is
cool, crisp weather
Even
the
and
in winter,
few days a month that are their bikes.
are available for rent at
Thompson Boat Center
(one-speed bikes are $4 an hour or $15 a day, and hybrid bikes are $8 an
hour or $25 a day; (202) 333-4861), open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day, and bikes must returned by 6 p.m. The center is located between the
Kennedy
Center
and
Georgetown
on
the
Boathouse, above Georgetown on Canal Road, for
2 hours or $12 a day; (202) 244-0461).
Potomac. also rents
Fletcher's
out bikes ($8
395
396
Part Eleven
Road
Biking
Exercise and Recreation
downtown Washington,
In
ing traffic congestion,
pied with bike
monuments and
on Washington's
hardened urban
bicycling
is
better left to couriers. Unrelent-
combined with absent-minded
tourists preoccu-
finding a cheap parking space, makes riding a
streets a brutal
cyclists. Luckily,
experience for
Washington
all
features a
but the most
network of bike
paths that takes the terror out of riding a skinny-tired bike in
—the
of
In terms of great scenery and
Mount Vernon Trail
the
to pedaling the 16 trips to
and
is
paved miles to
Dyke Marsh
to really get a workout,
enough distance
Washington's premier bike path. In addition
Mount Vernon,
cyclists
can make side
wildlife habitat, explore fortifications at Fort
Hunt,
see a 19th-century lighthouse at Jones Point Park.
Another good out-and-back
ride
is
the
Washington and Old Domin-
ion Railroad Regional Park
(W&OD),
bikeway that connects with the
Mount Vernon Trail
Memorial Bridge on the Virginia with a
series
Mount Vernon
Washington by at the
a 4 5 -mile-long, paved linear
side of the
upriver of Arlington
Potomac. The
trail intersects
of "bubble" parks in urban Northern Virginia and provides
access to the rural Virginia countryside
the
—and out
city.
W&OD
and the by riding across the Arlington Memorial Bridge,
Trail
bicycle
beyond the Capital Beltway. Both trail are easily reached from
Lincoln Memorial.
Road
riders itching to see beautiful countryside outside the
Washing-
ton metropolitan area (but within a day's drive) should go to either
Mid-
dleburg, Virginia, or Frederick, Maryland. Middleburg, about 30 miles west of D.C.,
is
in the heart
of Virginia's horse country. Beautiful
rolling countryside in the foothills of the Blue traffic tic
Ridge Mountains and low-
roads bordering thoroughbred horse farms
make
this area a fantas-
place to spin the cranks.
Frederick, Maryland,
is
North of town along US hatcheries, and mountain
about an hour's drive north of Washington. 15, covered bridges,
narrow back roads,
fish
vistas evoke images of Vermont. The Covered Bridge Cicyle Tour starts at Frederick Community College. From D.C.
take 1-270 north to Frederick
Opposumtown
and get on
US
15 north; then exit on
Pike going north to the college, about a mile on the
left.
To the south of Frederick, a 25-mile loop around Sugar Loaf Mountain is
a favorite with local road cyclists.
Mountain Biking Fat-tired cyclists can ride
1
84 miles one-way on the Chesapeake
& Ohio
Canal Towpath, beginning in Georgetown then following along the Potomac River upstream to Cumberland, Maryland. The hardpacked dirt surface gives the illusion
of being
flat all
the way; actually, the trip
Covered Bridge Bicycle Tour
Frederick
Community College
Stan and finish of bicvcle tour
Bicycle route
f-G^- Direction f^
of travel
Covered Bridge
397
398
Recreational Sports
upriver
slightly uphill.
is
Because of floods in the winter and spring,
idea to call the National Park Service at (301)
good
399
sure the section you're planning to ride
Hammerheads looking climbing have to do some
is
open
739-4200
but
it,
a
to cyclists.
for challenging single-track
driving to find
it's
make
to
it's
and some steep
worth
it.
The Fred-
erick Municipal Watershed offers the best technical single-track this side of West Virginia
—and
it's
a lot closer. Located an hour's drive
from
Washington near Frederick, Maryland, the 6,000-acre, mountaintop forest is riddled with narrow trails and well-maintained dirt roads. Since there are hardly any signs or
trail
markers, the Catoctin Furnace
Quad-
rangle topographic
must. Local knowledge
helps, too; call
bike shop, at (301) 663-
9288
map and a compass are a the Wheel Base, Frederick's pro
maps and
for
advice.
Hiking While only about 15 minutes from downtown, Theodore Roosevelt Island wide,
a wilderness oasis offering hikers a litde over three miles of
is
paths through forests,
flat
The park
is
located
swampy
on the Potomac River
marshes, and rocky beaches.
across
from the Kennedy Cen-
and can be reached by car. Park in the area off the northbound lanes of the George Washington Memorial Parkway on the Virginia side of the ter
river.
A footbridge connects
The dirt
way
the Virginia shore to the island.
C&O Canal, which begins in Georgetown, features a hardpacked
path that follows the Potomac River north for 184 miles. Along the are river views, forest, and wildlife. At Great Falls Park, north of
Washington on the Virginia side of the river, the Potomac roars over a series of steep, jagged rocks and flows through a narrow gorge. It's a dramatic scene and worth the trip. Hiking trails follow the river and offer views of
Mather Gorge. Rock Creek Park
offers 15 miles
of hiking
trails,
plus bridle
available at the park headquarters,
in
trails
Northwest Washington
you can
hike.
5163 Williamsburg Lane,
Maps
are
NW (phone
(202) 895-6070).
For a more extensive guide to hikes in the Elliott's
area,
check out author Paul
book, 60 Hikes within 60 Miles: Washington, D.C., published by
Menasha Ridge
(www.menasharidge.com).
Press
Canoeing and Kayaking Canoes and rowboats
Potomac River
at
are available for rent
Thompson Boat
on the
Center,
C&O
Canal and the
located
between the
Kennedy Center and Georgetown (phone (202) 333-4861). Single kayaks are $8 an hour or $24 a day, double kayaks are $10 an hour or $30 a day, and canoes are $8 an hour or $22 a day. Fletcher's Boat House located at Canal and Reservoir Roads above Georgetown (phone
400
Exercise and Recreation
Part Eleven
(202) 244-0461), have canoes for rent at $1
Boats, located on
K Street in Georgetown
canoes and kayaks for rent at the
be rented
1
an hour or $21 a day. Jack's
(phone (202) 337-9642), have
$10 an hour or $30
at
a day. Pedal boats can
Tidal Basin (phone (202) 484-0206): a two-passenger
is $8 an hour and a four-passenger rental is $16 an hour. Whitewater enthusiasts need go only a few miles north of the Capital
rental
Beltway to find excellent Class
through Class VI rapids year-round on
I
Potomac. Local boaters boast that
the
it's
the best urban whitewater
experience in the United States, featuring a very remote, wilderness
One
of the most popular
put-in
at
is
trips
is
have to run a shuttle:
It's
bank
at
rapids.
Maryland's Great
Seasoned paddlers
Angler's Inn
to
don't
your starting
is
very scenic, featuring
is
National Park or become another
to try
and end
Falls
Seneca rapids, no shuttle
190), north of
meaning you
you return
rapids, the river
Falls
may want
below Great
(MD
But you must make the next take-out on the
the river drops through Great
that start
Road
also the take-out,
C&O Canal, about one-and-a-half miles below
Below the Seneca
many islands and no
is
feel.
Seneca rapids section. The
a round-trip that lets
point by paddling up the Violets Lock.
tistic as
II
Violets Lock, located on River
Potomac, Maryland. Violets Lock
left
the Class
sta-
Falls.
running the Class at the
Old
II/III-plus rapids
Angler's Inn.
required: Park across the road
As with
from the Old
on MacArthur Boulevard on the Maryland side of the trail to the put-in. Paddle upstream on the C&O
Potomac and follow the Canal to below Great
Falls (at least
100 yards)
for the return leg.
Boat Rides Sixty-minute excursions leave Georgetown and Great the
C&O
vice guides
Foundry Mall, below $8
for adults
4 to
14.
Virginia,
on
wear nineteenth-century costumes, take the boat through a
and explain the history of the
lock,
Falls,
Canal most days from April to mid-October. National Park Ser-
and $6
M Street
for seniors ages
Call (202) 653-5190
Board and buy
canal.
at Thomas Jefferson
62 and
over,
Street,
tickets near the
NW. Tickets are
and $5 for children ages and more information.
for current schedules
Skiing Moderately good downhill
from Washington and skiing in
ski slopes are
offer dependable,
within a couple hours' drive
machine-made snow and night
from November through March. Whitetail,
a $25-million ski area feet,
14
for information
on
nearby Pennsylvania, features a vertical drop of almost 1,000
trails,
and plenty of lift
ski packages, lodging,
Jointly
capacity. Call (717)
and
lift
328-9400
rates.
owned Ski Roundtop and Liberty Mountain
Resort, also
located in south-central Pennsylvania, are about a two- to three-hour
Spectator Sports
drive
from Washington, Both
offer 600-foot verticals, 13 trails,
percent snowmaking. Call Ski
Mountain Resort
at
Roundtop
(717) 642-8282 for
at
lift
401
and 100-
(717) 432-9631 and Liberty rates, hours, and directions.
Horseback Riding The Rock Creek Park Horse Center
offers
guided
rides
$30
on the equesan hour;
reserRock Creek inches tall for the least be at 30 must vations are required. Children center, The for rides $20. pony offers also guided rides. Rock Creek which is open all year, is located at Military and Glover Roads in Northwest Washington. The hours are Tuesday through Friday, noon
Park. Rates are
trian trails located in
to 6 p.m.; Saturday
or visit
and Sunday, 9 a.m.
for
362-01 17
to 5 p.m. Call (202)
www.rockcreekhorsecenter.com
for
more information.
Golf Washington has three public golf courses operated on National Park Service land and open from dawn to dusk. Fees are $9 to $17 for 9 holes and $19 to $22 for 18 holes weekdays; weekends, the rates range from $1 1 to $27, respectively. Reservations are not accepted. All three courses feature bars, pro shops, rental clubs, and gas cars. East Potomac Golf Course, located in East Potomac Park across from
snack
Washington's waterfront area, offers one 18-hole course, two 9-hole courses, and an 18-hole miniature golf course. It's the busiest of the National Park Service courses; plan to arrive at don't
want
greens,
dawn on weekends
if you
Potomac has wide-open fairways, well-kept views of surrounding monuments. Call (202) 554-
to wait. East
and
great
7660 for more information. Langston Golf Course, at 28th
Street
and Benning Road,
NE
(near
Stadium), features an 18-hole course, including newly remodeled back-9 holes, and a driving range. Langston, the only public course with
RFK
water holes, call
is
located along the Anacostia River. For
more information,
(202) 397-8638.
Rock Creek Golf Course
NW,
is
offers duffers a hilly
and wooded
and Rittenhouse Streets, White House on 16th Street. It
located at l6th
four-and-a-half miles north of the
and challenging 18-hole course through rolling 882-7332 for more information.
hills
terrain. Call (202)
Spectator Sports After waiting
more than 30
years,
our nation's capitol has a
new Major
League Baseball team, the Washington Nationals. America's national pastime returned to D.C. on a professional level when the former Montreal
Expos moved here and began
their first season at
RFK Stadium
in
402
Exercise and Recreation
Part Eleven
spring of 2005. While they were waiting for their
new team
to arrive,
however, Washingtonians developed a fierce devotion to the Baltimore Orioles, only an hour north. Visitors to D.C. can to catch the Birds playing at
home, Oriole Park
downtown Inner Harbor. Check
Baltimore's
baseball,
(named
if you're
Yards, near
home games and
tickets.
one of the growing number of fans of minor-league
Washington
is
worth a minitour. The Class
honor of Francis Scott Key, a
in
the trek by train
Camden
the sports section of the
Washington Post for information on both teams'
However,
make
at
rural
A Frederick Keys
Maryland
native) play in
town of Frederick, Maryland, about an hour to the northeast (phone (301) 662-0013). The Class A Potomac Cannons, a farm team
the historic
for the Cincinnati Reds, play just outside Fairfax
2311
County;
call
(703) 590-
for details.
The
closest option for baseball
where the Bowie Baysox, a Class as the Keys,
is
Prince George's
AA team
County Stadium,
belonging to the same group
have been steadily building a crowd. Both teams are associ-
ated with the Orioles, so they're sentimental favorites. Baysox tickets run
only $12 for box active military.
seats,
$9
Call (301)
for adults,
464-4865
and $6
for children, seniors
and
for information.
For professional basketball, the Washington Wizards and the
WNBA's Mystics
(the league's highest-attendance
MCI
downtown
of the
Center, located
team
in
2002) play out
near Gallery Place. For schedules
and tickets, call (202) 661-5050 or visit the teams' respective Web sites: www.nba.com/wizards and www.wnba.com/mystics. The University of Maryland Terrapins offer topflight college basketball at Comcast Center on the school's campus in suburban College Park. Call (301) 314-7070 for information. Georgetown University plays its home games at MCI Center; for ticket information call (202) 687-HOYA. Lots of luck getting tickets to see professional football in Washington: the
Washington Redskins have
team holds the reputation Still
sold out stadiums for years,
as the hardest ticket to acquire in
interested? Scalpers regularly charge three
ticket price
—and
and the
pro sports.
and four times the regular
higher, if the 'Skins are playing Dallas.
moved from RFK Stadium to what is now The stadium has nearly 92,000 seats, so tickets obtain. Following suite, Baltimore built a new football
In 1997, the Redskins
Fed-Ex Field
in
Landover.
are slighdy easier to
stadium for the Ravens, nee Cleveland Browns. For Redskins schedule and ticket information, call (301) 276-6800 or visit www.redskins.com. For the Ravens,
call
(410) 261 -RAVE or
College football in
Byrd Stadium
Academy
at
is
visit
www.baltimoreravens.com.
another matter.
The Maryland Terrapins play The Naval
College Park (phone (301) 314-7070).
in Annapolis,
Maryland, and
ton also field teams; check the Post for
Howard University in Washinghome game information.
Spectator Sports
403
Washington's professional hockey team, the Washington Capitals, MCI Center in downtown D.C. near Gallery Place. For
plays at the
information,
call
(202) 628-3200.
Pro soccer comes
home games
to
Washington when the D.C. United plays 16
each season (March through September)
RFK
at
Stadium.
Tickets for evening and Sunday afternoon games range from $22 to $55.
For schedule information,
Horse racing
is
call
(202) 587-5000.
available at a
number of
visit.
Bus
service
from the
city
is
around Washington;
tracks
check the Washington Post to see which track
is
during your
in season
usually available.
D.C.-area Horse Tracks
Harness:
Thoroughbred:
Rosecroft
Charles
MD
(30
1
)
(30
262-8
Town Raceways— Charlestown.NA^
1
1
I
567-4000
)
I
(304) 725-7001
Course— Laurel. MD (301) 725-0400 Race Course— Baltimore. MD (410) 542-9400
Laurel Race
Pimlico
MD
Raceway— Fort Washington,
Bowie Race Course— Bowie.
Accommodations Index
Days Inn Connecticut Avenue, 61, 64,
Adam'sinn, 61,64, 68-69
American Inn of Bethesda, 61, 64, 68-69
70-71 Days Inn Crystal
Best Western Arlington, 61, 64,
68-69 68-69
Best Western Capitol Hill, 61, 62, Best Western
Key
Best Western
New Hampshire
63, 67,
Bridge, 61, 64,
68-69
Suites, 60,
Doubletree Hotel
City, 61, 65,
70-71
Cr>'stal City, 58, 65, GG,
70-71 Doubletree Hotel Tysons Corner, 59, 65,
67,70-71
68-69
Best Western Tyson's Westpark, 61, 64,
Econo Lodge National
Airport, 61, 65,
70-71
68-69 Bethesda Court Hotel, 59, 64, 67, 68-69
Embassy
Inn,
61,63,70-71
Embassy Row Hilton,
68-69
Carlyle Suites Hotel, 57, 63,
63,
Channel Inn Hotel, 60, 61, 68-69 Churchhill Hotel, 59, 63, G6, 68-69
Comfort Inn Arlington, 61,
64,
68-69
Comfort Inn Downtown, 61, 62, 68-69 Comfort Inn Landmark, 61, 64, 68-69
Comfort Inn Pentagon,
58, 63,
Embassy Square Summerfield
Capitol Hilton, 59, 62, GG, 68-69
59, 63, 66,
68-69
Comfort Inn Tyson's Corner, 61, 64,
70-71 Suites, 60,
70-71
Embassy
Suites Alexandria, 58, 65,
Embassy
Suites
Chevy Chase,
70-71
58, 64,
70-71
Embassy
Suites Crystal City, 59, 65,
70-71
Downtown,
70-71
Embassy
Suites
Embassy
Suites Tysons Corner, 58, 65, 67,
58, 63,
70-71
68-69 Comfort Inn Washington Gateway, 61, 64,
Fairmont Washinton, D.C., 58, 62, 70-71
68-69 68-69
Courtyard Alexandria, 60, 64, 67, Courtyard
Cr)'stal City, 58, 64,
68-69
Court)'ard Embassy Row, 60, 63,
Courtyard
New
68-69
Carrollton, 59, 64, 67,
Four Points Sheraton Bethesda, 60, 64,
70-71 Four Points Sheraton Downtown, 60, 62,
70-71 Four Seasons Hotel, 57, 63, 70-71
68-69 Courtyard Rosslyn, 60, 64, 70-71
Courtyard Washington
NW,
59, 63,
70-71
Crowne
Plaza National, 60, 64,
70-71
Days Inn Alexandria, 61, 64, 70-71
Georgetown Inn, 59, 63, 70-71 Governor's House, 60, 63, 72-73
Grand Hyatt Washington, Hamilton Crowne
58, 62,
Plaza, 57, 62,
72-73
72-73
405
Accommodations Index
406
Hampton Inn Hawthorn
Alexandria, 60, 65,
Hay-Adams
Hotel, 57, 62,
Hilton Alexandria 67,
11-1^
Suites Hotel, 60, 65, 67,
at
Mark
72-73
Loews LEnfant
Plaza, 58, 61, 67,
Madison Hotel,
58, 62,
76-77
76-77 76-77
72-73
Mandarin
Center, 58, 65,
Marriott Crystal City, 59, 65, 76-77
Oriental, 57, 61,
Marriott Crystal Gateway, 59, 65, 76-77
72-73
Marriott Hotel Bethesda, 59, 64, 76-77
Hilton Arlington and Towers, 59, 65,
Marriott Hotel Key Bridge, 59, 65, 76-77
72-73 Hilton Garden Inn, 60, 62, 72-73
Marriott Metro Center, 60, 62, 76-77
Hilton of Silver Spring, 60, G\, 67, 72-73
Marriott Tysons Corner, 59, 65, 76-77
Hilton Washington, 59, 63, 67, 72-73
Marriott
Wardman
Park Hotel, 59, 64,
Holiday Inn Alexandria, 61, 65, 72-73
76-77
Holiday Inn Adington, 59, 65, 72-73
The Melrose
Holiday Inn Capitol, 60, 62, 72-73
Morrison-Clark Inn, 58, 64, 76-77
Holiday Inn Central, 60, 64, 72-73
Morrison House, 58, 65, 76-77
Hotel, 58, 63,
76-77
Holiday Inn Chevy Chase, 60, 64, 72-73
Holiday Inn Downtown, 61, 62, 72-73 Holiday Inn Georgetown, 60, G^, 66,
Omni Shoreham Hotel, 58, 64, 76-77 One Washinton Circle Hotel, 58, 62, 76-77
72-73 Holiday Inn Hotel and
Suites, 60, 65,
Park Hyatt, 57, 63, 76-77
72-73 Holiday Inn National Airport, 60, 65, 67,
Phoenix Park Hotel, 61, 76-77
72-73 Holiday Inn on the
Hill, 60, 62,
Holiday Inn Rosslyn 65,
at
Key
72-73
Quality Inn College Park, 61, 64, GJ
Bridge, 60,
Quality Inn Iwo Jima, 60, 65, 67, 7G-77
72-73
Holiday Inn Select Bethesda, 60, 64, Radisson Barcelo Hotel, 59, 63, 76-77
74-75 Holiday Inn Select Old Town, 59, 65,
74-75 Holiday Inn
Silver Spring, 60, 64,
74-75
Radisson Plaza Hotel Old Town, 60, 65,
76-77 Red Roof Inn Downtown,
61, 62,
78-79
Hotel Helix, 58, 64, 74-75
Hotel Lombardy, 60, 62, 67, 74-75
Residence Inn, 58, 64, 78-79
Hotel Madera, 58, 63, 74-75
Residence Inn
Dupont
Circle, 59, 63,
78-79
Hotel Monaco, 58, 62, 74-75
Residence Inn Pentagon City, 59, 65,
Hotel Monticello, 59, 63, 74-75
78-79
Hotel Rouge, 58, 63, 74-75
Residence Inn Vermont Avenue, 59, 62,
Hotel Topaz, 57, 63, 66, 74-75
78-79
Hotel Washington, 59, 62, 74-75
Ritz-Carlton Georgetown, 57, 63, 78-79
Hyatt Arlington, 58, 65, 74-75 Hyatt Regency Bethesda, 59, 64, 74-75 Hyatt Regency Capitol
76-77
Renaissance Mayflower Hotel, 57, 62,
HotelGeorge, 58, 61,74-75
Hill, 59, 62,
74-75
Hyatt Regency Crystal City, 58, 65, 74-75
Ritz-Carlton Pentagon City, 57, 65,
78-79 Ritz-Carlton Washington, D.C., 57, 63,
78-79 Jefferson Hotel, 57, 62, 67,
Jurys
J.W
74-75
River Inn, 58, 62, 67, 78-79
Normandy, 60, 63, 74-75 Marriott Hotel, 58, 62, 74-75, 91
Savoy Suites Hotel, 60, 64, 78-79 Sheraton Crystal City, 60, 65, 78-79
Kalorama Guest House, 60, 63, 66, 74-75
Sheraton National, 59, 65, 78-79 Sheraton Pentagon South, 60, 65, 78-79
Latham Hotel,
59, 63, 67,
74-75
Lincoln Suites, 60, 62, 74-75
Sheraton Premiere Tysons Corner, 57, 65,
78-79
Accommodations Index Sheraton Suites Alexandria, 58, 65, 78-79 Sofitel Ufayette, 58, 62, St.
Gregory Luxury Hotel and 63,
St.
78-79 Suites, 58,
Washington Renaissance Hotel, 59, 62,
66,80-81 Washington Suites Alexandria, 59, 65,
80-81
78-79
Regis, 58, 62,
407
Washington
78-79
State Plaza Hotel, 60, 62, 67,
78-79
Suites
Georgetown, 58, 63,
80-81 Washington Terrace Hotel, 58, 64, 80-81
Tabard Inn, 61, 63, 78-79
Watergate Hotel, 57, 62, 67, 80-81
Westin Embassy Row, 58, 63, 80-81
80-81
Washington Court Hotel, 59, 62, 78-79
WestinGrand,
Washington Marriott Hotel, 59, 63,
Willard Intercontinental, 57, 62, 80-81
78-79 Washington National Airport Hilton, 59,
65,67,80-81 Washington Plaza Hotel, 61, 62, 80-81
57, 63,
Windsor Park Hotel, 61, 63, 80-81
Wyndham Wyndham
City Center, 59, 63, 67, 80-81
Washington, 58, 62, 80-81
Restaurant Index
Addie's, 254, 265, 268,
Cafe Promenade, 257
274
America, 273
Cafe Rose, 257
Andale, 260, 265, 267, 275
Capital Grille, 259,
Antrim 1844,257
Capitol City Brewing
Ashby
Cashion's Eat Place, 266, 268,
Inn,
257
Athenian Plaka, 264, 268, 275-76 Austin
Grill,
266, 267, 268, 269, 276-77
270
Company, 9 1 270 284-85 ,
Caucus Room, 258, 270 Charlie Palmer Steak, 254, 270, 273
Chef Geoff's, 260 Bangkok Garden, 266, 268, 277
Chopsticks, 272
257
Bar Rouge, 26
Circle Bistro,
Benjarong, 266, 268, 277-78
Citronelle, 254, 264, 267, 273,
The
Bistro,
257
Bistro Bis, 264, 267, 273,
278-79
Bistro Fran^aise, 264, 267, Blackie's,
279
Coeur de Lion, 257 Colvin
Run Tavern,
265, 269, 273,
285-86
270
Black's Bar
285
CityZen, 254, 257
& Kitchen, 266, 268, 271,
Courduroy, 265, 267, 273, 286-87
279-80 Blue Point
D.C. Coast, 265, 267, 273, 287
271
Grill,
Dish, 257
BobbyVan's, 254, 270
Bombay Bombay
Bistro,
Shula's,
270 Co., 270
270
Brickseller,
Bullfeathers,
Don
DuClaw Brewing
Club, 259
Brewer's Alley,
The
264, 268, 269, 280-81
270
Ella's
Burma, 263, 267, 281 Busara, 266, 267, 269, 271,
Wood-Fired
Pizza, 260,
271
Equinox, 254, 265, 267, 287-88
259
Etrusco, 264, 268,
288-89
281-82 Faccia Luna, 271
257
Cafe 15,260
15ria, 254,
Cafe Atlantico/Minibar, 260, 265, 267,
Finemondo, 260
272, 273, 282-83
Fiore di Luna,
273
260
Cafe Bethesda, 254
Firefly Restaurant,
Cafe Deluxe, 271
Five Guys,
Caf^ Divan, 266, 267, 283
Fleming's Steakhouse
Cafe Milano, 258, 264, 267, 283-84
Four and Twenty Blackbirds, 257
Cafe Mozu, 257
Four Seasons Hotel Garden Terrace, 272
408
270
& Wine Bar, 270
Restaurant Index Four
Sisters
(Huong Que), 266, 269, 289 and Brewpub, 270
Franklin's Restaurant
L'Auberge Chez Fran9ois, 264, 269, 273,
301-2 Le Mannequin
Gabriel, 265, 268, 272,
Pis,
261, 269, 305
Le Paradou, 260, 264, 267, 273, 305-6
289-90
Galileo, 256, 259, 264, 268, 273,
409
290-91
Les Halles, 259
Georgia Brown's, 259, 266, 267, 272, 291 Maestro, 264, 269, 273, 306-7
Geranio, 265, 269, 291-92 Gerard's Place, 264, 267, 273,
292-93
Makoto, 264, 268, 307-8
Ginza, 272
Marcel's, 264, 268,
Good
Market Inn, 259
Fortune, 263, 268, 293
Goose Run, 257
Gordon
Biersch Brewery Restaurant,
270
Street Grill,
Mark's
Duck House,
Green Papaya, 266, 268, 294
Mayim, 258
The
McCormick's
269, 295-96 Grill
263, 269, 308-9
254
Matisse,
Morrison House), 265,
257
Market
Grapeseed, 265, 268, 273, 293-94
Grille (at the
308
& Schmick's, 272
Melrose, 259, 265, 267, 272, 273,
from Ipanema, 263, 268, 295
MieNYu,
Guapo's, 271
309-10
Meskerem, 264, 268, 310 271
Miyagi, 272
Ha Ku Ba, 272 Hama Sushi, 272
Momo Taro,
Hard Rock Cafe, 271
Montmarte, 264, 266, 310-11
Helix, 261
Morton's, 260
Heritage India, 264, 267, 268, 296
Morton's of Chicago, 270
Hermitage Inn, 257
Murasaki, 264, 268, 272, 311-12
272
Monocle, 259
Hops, 270 Nectar,
Indique, 264, 268,
The Inn
at Little
New
297
Washington, 254, 265,
269, 273, 297-98
The
J.
Irish
Inn
Gilbert's,
at
Glen Echo, 272
Nick and
254
Occidental
Grill,
313-14
259
Oceanaire Seafood Room, 260, 266, 267,
298-99
271,314
Jean-Michel, 264, 268, 299 the Watergate,
Old
257
Jockey Club, 257
John Harvard's Brewhouse, 270 Johnny's Half Shell, 266, 268,
299-300
Angler's Inn, 265, 269, 272, Grill,
Old
263,267,316
Glory,
Bistro, 264, 267,
272, 300-301
314-15
259, 263, 267, 271, 272,
Old Ebbitt 315-16 Olives,
Kaz Sushi
Stef's,
Niwano Hana, 272 Nora, 265,268, 312-13 Obelisk, 264, 268, 273,
270
Jaleo, 265, 267, 268, 269, 272, 273,
Jeffrey's at
257
Heights, 265, 268, 272, 273, 312
254
OlneyAle House, 271
Kennedy Center Roof Terrace, 272, 273
Oodles Noodles, 271
Kinkead's, 266, 267, 271, 272, 273, 301
Ortanique, 254, 260, 263, 267, 316-17
Komi, 254 Palena,256, 265, 268, 317-18
257
La Chaumi^re, 264, 267, 302-3
Palette,
La CoUine, 259, 264, 266, 303
Palm, 259, 270
La Cote D'Or Cafe, 264, 269, 304
Paya Thai, 273
Lafayette, 257,
273
La Miche, 254, 264, 268, 304-5
Perry's,
273
Persimmon, 254, 265, 269, 318
Restaurant Index
410
P.F.Chang's, 271
Tachibana, 272
Pizzeria Paradise, 265, 267, 268, 271,
Tako
Poste, 254,
Grill,
264, 269, 272, 325
TaraThai, 266, 269, 271,326
318-19
Taste of Saigon, 266, 269,
257
Tavira, 266, 269,
Prime Rib, 260, 270
The Tea Cozy, 269
Primi
Piatti,
326-27
327
Potomack Landing, 273
Teaism, 269
271
Teatro Goldoni, 264, 267, 271,
Radio Free
Italy,
Thai Farm, 329
Rainforest Cafe, 271
319-20
Tono
Sushi,
Restaurant Eve, 256, 265, 320-21
Tony
& Joe's, 273
Restaurant Nora, 259, 273
Topaz
Restaurant Seven, 255
Tosca, 264, 267,
RFD, 271
Turning Point Inn, 257
Red
Sage, 265, 267, 271,
260
Rock Bottom Restaurant
Bar,
272
261
329-30
2941,254,265,269,330-31
Ristorante Filomena, 271 Ristorante Tosca,
327-28
TenPenh, 265, 267, 328-29
271
& Brewery, 270
Two Amys, 271 Two Quail, 259
Rocklands, 263, 267, 269, 321 Ruth's Chris Steakhouse,
270
Union
Street Public
House, 271
Sakana, 272
Vidalia, 265, 268, 273,
Sake Club, 272
The View
Sam
& Harrys, 270, 273
331-32
Steakhouse, 273
Virginia Beverage Co.,
270
Sea Catch, 266, 267, 272, 322 Seasons, 257,
WiUard Room, 257
273
Willow Grove, 257
Sequoia, 273
1789, 265, 268, 322-23 Signatures, 256, 260,
Smith
& Wollensky, 254, 270
Stone Manor, 257
Summit
Station,
Woo
Lae Oak, 265, 269, 332
273 Yoko, 272 Yosaku, 272
270
Sushi-Ko, 264, 268, 272, 323
Zaytina, 260, 265, 267,
Sushi Taro, 272
Zed's, 264, 268,
Sweetwater Tavern, 270
Zio's,
332-33
333-34
271
Zola, 254, 260, 265, 267, 273,
Tabard Inn, 264, 268, 324 Taberna del Alabardero, 260, 266, 267, 273, 324-25
334
Subject Index
Art
Accommodations See also Accommodations Index
184, 191-92,
Bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs), 46
30
best deals,
66-67
comparison
chart,
convention
rates,
Art
191-92 Hirshhorn
197-99
ratings/rankings,
51-81
star rating system,
National
Museum
of African Art, 139,
182, 183, 199-200
55
numbers, 52
National
41-42
National
to stay,
Accommodations
Museum Museum
Arts, 139, 182,
Express, 45
of American Art, 139 of Women in the
185,226
National Portrait Gallery, 139, 14 1,
Acela Express, 99
Adams-Morgan (Zone
6), 105,
164,
339-41
154,227 Phillips Collection, 139, 153, 182, 185,
Airports
Baltimore- Washington International,
Ronald Reagan "Washington National,
Folklife Festival,
33
An American
9),
106
Holiday Celebration, 37
Anderson House, 140, 141, 234-35 Andres, Jose Annapolis,
Ramon, 256
MD,
168-69
Arts and Industry Building, 142 Attractions
churches/houses of worship, 180
governmnet buildings open
166,357,358
grouped by Metro Station, 163-66 historic buildings and homes, 180-81
libraries,
181
Arlington House, 140, 141
listed
by type, 180-83
Arlington National Cemetery, 140, 141,
listed
by zone, 183-86
153, 180, 183,
for tours,
180
hours of operation, 143-44
Area codes, 109 Stage,
206
cemeteries, 180
Amtrak, 38, 99, 168 Anacostia (Zone
Gallery, 139, 182, 184,
Smithsonian American Art Museum,
227
38-39, 94, 96 Washington-Dulles, 39, 94, 97, 99
American
234 Renwick
99
39, 98,
Arena
Sculpture
National Gallery of Art, 139, 182, 183,
numerical rating system, 56 parking, 42
toll-free
Museum and
Garden, 139, 181, 183, 192-93
by zone, 61-65
where
in the Arts,
188-89
Freer Gallery of Art, 139, 181, 183,
information chart, 68-81 listed
208-9
of the Americas, 139
139, 181, 183,
42
hotel taxes,
Museum
Corcoran Gallery of Art
57-61
49-51
42^9
discounts,
museums
Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, 139, 182,
186-87
Memorial Day Ceremonies, 33
monuments and memorials, 181 museums and galleries, 181-82
411
Subject Index
412
Gettysburg National Battlefield, 170
Attractions (continued)
and
parks, gardens
theaters/performances,
1
170
183
Manassas National
83
Spotsylvania National Military Park, 170
zoos,
Battlefield,
Clarice Smith Performing Arts Center at
Maryland, 359
Babe Ruth House, 169 Baltimore,
MD,
C&O Canal mule-drawn boat rides, 35 C&O Canal Towpath Trail, map, 391
169
Baltimore Orioles, 401-2
Barbecue Baseball,
Battle,
Consolidators, 45
34
Constitution Gardens, 140
402
Basketball,
Constitution Hall, 139
402
Bed and Breakfast Accommodations
Ltd.,
Bed
Crime, 110-17
Customs and
46
protocol,
106—8
& Breakfasts-Country Inns and The
Official
Guide
to
American Historic Inns
Disabled tourists, 108, 133-35, 257
342-43
Bethesda, 255,
Donna, Roberto, 254, 256, 259 Downtown (Zone 3), 104-5
Bishops Garden, 140 Black, Barbara,
Decatur House, 140, 141, 180, 183,
190-91
46
(Sakach),
254
106-7
Black Rock Center for the Arts, 359
Dress,
Bowie Race Course, 403
Driving, 34-37, 119-20
Bureau of Engraving and Printing
Dumbarton Oaks Mansion and Museum, 140, 182, 185,229-30 Dupont Circle, 102, 105-6, 140, 341-42 Dupont Circle/Adams Morgan (Zone 6),
National, 139, 140, 183, 187-88
Business travelers, 49-50, 83, 90
102, 105-6, 140, 268 Dupont-Kalorama Museum Walk Day, 34
Cam, Yannick, 254 Capital Jazz Fest, 34
Capitol Hill (Zone 2), 104, 215, 266, 343 Capitol Reservations, 45
Center for Science in the Public
Interest,
Potomac Golf Course, 401
East
Potomac Tennis Club, 394
Edgar Allen Poe House, 169
254
The Center
for the Arts at
University,
Charles
East
Town
George Mason
165
Embassy Row, 140, 164
Raceways, 403
Encore, 44
Enid A. Haupt Garden, 140
Chefs Collective, 254
Chesapeake
Ellipse,
358
& Ohio Canal and Towpath,
and recreation
Exercise
boat
rides,
ten least popular sights, 151
394-99 400 canoeing and kayaking, 399-400 fitness centers and aerobics, 393 free weights and elliptical trainers, 393
ten most popular sights, 146
golf,
401
141,
biking,
142,399
Children's National Medical Center, 150 Children's sightseeing, 139,
146-51
Children's Concierge, 159
399
Chinatown, 91, 164, 165
hiking,
Churches/houses of worship
horseback riding, 401
Adas
Israel
horse racing, 402
Synagogue, 142
Basilica of the Shrine of the
Immaculate
running, 390-93
400-401
Conception, 142, 180, 185, 241-42
skiing,
Franciscan Monastery and Gardens,
spectator sports,
242-43 Center, 142, 180, 185, 232-33
140, 142, 154, 180, 186, Islamic St.
John's Episcopal Church, 142
Washington National Cathedral, 139, 140, 142, 152, 180,
185,240-41
City Paper, 109 Civil
War
Antietam National
tennis,
Battefield,
170
394 389-90
walking,
Fashion Centre, 335 Federal Bureau of Investigation, 139, 140,
155,222 and events, calendar, 32-37 The Fitness Company, 393 Festivals
Battlefields
401-3
swimming, 393
Subject Index 400
Jack's Boats,
Flea markets
413
Bethesda Flea Market, 338
Georgetown Flea Market, 337 Women's Co-op, 338 Fletcher's Boat House, 399-400 Foggy Bottom (Zone 4), 105, 267
Kenilworth Park and Aquatic Gardens,
Folger Shakespeare Library, 140, 141, 181,
Kennedy Center Prelude Koonz, Gray, 254 Krinn, Jonathan, 254
140, 182,
402
Ford, Jacques,
House, 141, 180,
Leeds, Jamie,
Playbill Cafe,
MD,
403
254
Legg Mason Tennis
FortMcNair, 140, 166
Liberty
358
Mountain
House (Cedar Hill), 139, 141, 180, 186,244-45 Frederick Municipal Watershed, 399
216-17 Malls
Chevy Chase
Pavilion,
Fairfax Square,
Gaithersburg, 255
The Fashion
Center,
Georgetown (Zone 5) restaurants, 267-68
Georgetown
Park,
shopping, 338-39 sightseeing, 105, 140, 141
tour of JFK residences, 175
George University Medical Center,
1
50
George Washington's Birthday Parade, 32 George Washington University Medical
336
336
Gadsby's Tavern, 155
335-36
337
Mazza Gallerie, 336 Montgomery Mall, 336 Old Post Office Pavilion, 337 Shops at National Place, 337 Tysons Corner, 336 Union Station, 337 White Flint Mall, 336
Maps
Center, 150
Germantown, 255 Goddard Space Flight Center, 142 Gray, Todd, 254,
34 400
Classic,
Resort,
Library of Congress, 139, 152, 181, 184,
396
Frederick Douglass
Great
36
Langston Golf Course, 401 Laurel Race Course,
184,356 Fort McHenry, 169
Frederick,
Festival,
254
Ford's Theatre/Petersen
1409
140, 141, 153, 183, 185,
227-28, 356
184,214-16 Football,
186,245-46
Kennedy Center,
Airport, 98
Capitol Hill, 215
257
Falls Park, 142,
Baltimore- Washington International
C&O Canal Towpath Trail, 391
399
Covered Bridge Bicycle Tour, 396 Harper's Ferry National Historical Park,
Mount Vernon Trail, 392 Ronald Reagan Washington National
169-70 Historic Alexandria Candlelight Tours,
Airport, 96
Sugar Loaf Mountain Bicycle Tour, 398
37
touring zones 1-6, 8
Hockey, 402
Homeless people,
1
touring zones 7-11, 9
16—17
Hospitals, 150
Washington, D.C. and
Hotel Discounts, 45
Washington and Old Dominion
Hotels.com, 45
Railroad Regional Park, 395 Washington Convention Center, 84-87
Hotel
& Travel Index, 45
House of Representatives, 176, 177 House of the Temple, 139, 180, 185, 231-32 Inner Harbor, 169
and Approved, Bed & Breakfasts and Country Inns (Stuhlman),
Inspected, Rated,
46 International Travel Card,
44
vicinity,
95
Washington Convention Center: Concourse A, B, and C, 84 Washington-Dulles International Airport, 96 Washington Old Town Trolley Tour, Zone 1, National Mall, 10-11
Zone Zone Zone
2,
Capitol Hill, 12-13
3,
Downtown D.C, 14-15
4,
Foggy Bottom, 16
1
56
Subject Index
414
Maps (continued) Zone 5, Georgetown, 17 Zone 6, Dupont Circle/ Adams-Morgan,
18-19
Zone Zone Zone Zone Zone
7,
Upper Northwest D.C., 20-21
8,
Northeast D.C., 22
9,
Southeast D.C., 23
10, 11,
Morales, Frank, 254
Mount Vernon
and Gardens, 140,
Estate
186,250-51
141, 154-55, 181,
Mount Vernon Square, 102 Mount Vernon Trail, 142, 392, 396 Museums. See also Art museums Anacostia Museum, 139, 141, 181, 186,244
Maryland suburbs, 24-25 Virginia suburbs, 26-27
MARC (Maryland commuter train), 99,
Bethune
Museum and Archives,
B&O Railroad Museum, Museums
Marine Corps Marathon, 36 Maryland Science Center, 169
Maryland suburbs (Zone
10),
City
(Brewmaster's Castle), 140,
185,230-31
180,
268-69
169
House Mansion and
Christian Heurich
168
139,
141
Museum
of Washington, l4l, 164,
165
Mather Gorge, 399 Mathieson, Jon, 254
Daughters of the American Revolution
McCoy,
Museum,
Eric,
254
African-American Civil
War Memorial,
139, 141
Black Revolutionary
War
Patriots
Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial,
141,181,184,206-8 George Mason Memorial, 141
Museum,
141, 142,
184,222-23
184,224 and Albert Small Jewish
Museum, 142
JefFerson Memorial, 140, 141, 181,
Lincoln
Museum
(in Ford's Theatre),
141
183, 193
Korean War Veterans Memorial, 141 Lincoln Memorial, 139, 140, 141, 181,
Law Enforcement
Officers
182,
War
II
Memorial, 141,
142, 153, 182, 183,
182,
U.S. Navy Memorial, 1 41, 165 Vietnam Veterans Memorial, 33, 14 1, 181, 184,210-11
Vietnam Memorial, l4l
Meridian International Center, 139, 140,
National
Museum,
141,
Museum
of Health and
Medicine, 142, 182, 185, 238-39 National
Museum
139, 182,
of Natural History,
184,202-3
Museum
National Postal
Metrobus, 132
182,
Metroliner, 99
Textile
of the American
Museum, 235-36
Series,
184,201-2
Museum,
139, 142,
184,217-18 140, 182, 185,
U.S. Holocaust Memorial 141, 182,
Mark, 254
139, 142,
186,248-49 National Museum of American History, 141, 142, 182, 184,200-201
Indian, 141, 182,
The Metro, 102-3, 121-35
Monis, Johnny, 254
Museum,
184,224-25
National
185,233
Metal detectors, 177
35
139,
142, 182,
U.S. Holocaust Memorial, l4l
Metro Mobility Link, 134 Military Band Summer Concert
Museum,
194-96
National Cryptologic
181, 184,203-4 Navy Memorial, 14
Flight Center,
186,247-48
National Building
Memorial, 33, 41 National World
NASA/Goddard Space National Air and Space
183, 194
Miller,
Gardens, 140,
185,237-38
International Spy
Lillian
Iwo Jima Memorial, 140, 141
180,
Museum and
Koshland Science Museum, 142, 181,
Memorial, 165
in
Hillwood
181,
George Washington National Masonic
Women
Dumberton Oaks Mansion and Museum, 140, 182, 185, 229-30 153, 181,
Memorial, 139, 141
National
139, 140, 152, 181, 183,
189-90
Memorials
Museum,
184,209-10
Washington Monument Museum, l4l at Strathmore Hall, 358
Music Center
Subject Index National Aquarium, 139, 165, 182, 183,
415
Platinum, 370. 372, 384-85
pubs/brewhouses, 367-68, 372
196 National Archives, 139, 141, 174-75,
196-97
red-light areas/sex boutiques,
369-70
373
singles bars,
National Cherr)' Blossom Festival, 32
Takoma
National Christmas Tree Lighting/Pageant
Yacht Club of Bethesda, 371, 373, 385-
Station Tavern, 371, 372,
86
of Peace, 37 National Coalition for the Homeless, 117
National Geographic Society's Explorer's Hall, 139, 182,
185,225-26
National Independence
Day
Zanzibar, 370, 372,
breweries,
367 367-68
coffee bars,
367
National Mall, 140, 164
369 354-55 overview, 353—54
National Theatre, 357
safety,
National Wildlife Visitor Center, 139,
singles bars,
Law Enforcement
Memorial Candlelight
142, 183,
Officers
Vigil,
386-87
Nightlife billiard parlors,
Celebration,
34 National
385
33
186,249-50
eating solo, nightclubs,
370
dieater,
368 355-60
National Zoological Park, 139, 183, 185,
O'Connell, Patrick, 254
239-40 Neighborhoods, 104-6
Newman, Mina, 255 Nightclubs bar and grills/buffets, 371
Birchmere, 371,372-73
Black Cat, 370, 371,372,373 Blues Alley 370, 372,
374-75
Olney Theatre, 359 Outtawa, Marou, 256
Blues Gin, 370, 374 Brickskeller, 370, 373,
375
Buffalo Billiards, 371, 373,
375-76
Chi-Cha Lounge, 371, 376 cigar bars, 367 cocktail lounges,
The Octagon, 140, 1 41, 181, 184,204-5 Old Executive Office Building, 165 Old Post Office Tower and Pavilion, 139, 140,165,181,184,205-6 Old Stone House, 141 Old Town Alexandria, 140, 141, 181, 186, 251-52,343
371
254 167-68
Palladin, Jean-Louis,
Parking, 42, 121, Pearl
Harbor
Day 37
comedy 360-61, 372
Penn Quarter, 255, 356
dance clubs, 365-66, 372
Pentagon, 151
Dave & Buster's, 371, 376-77 Dream, 371,372, 377-78 Dubliner, 370, 373, 378 Evening at the Improv, 372 gay night spots, 368-69
Pierce Mill,
Half Moon Bar-B-Que, 371, 372, 378-
PouUion, Nora, 254
394
Pimlico Race Course, 403
Pope John Paul
II
Cultural Center, 142
Potomac
Park,
142
Potomac
Spirit,
104
79
Hard Rock
Cafe, 370, 371, 379
The Improv, Iota,
370, 380
Quest, 44
Quikbook, 45
371,373,380-81
Jammin'Java, 371,373, 381
Racetracks,
403 175
listed
by type, 371-72
Radio
listed
by zone, 370-71
Recommended Country Inns, Mid-Atlantic and Chesapeake Region (Chase), 46
live jazz
live
and
blues,
361-65, 372
pop/rock, 361-65, 372
Lulu's
Night Club, 371, 373, 381-82
MCCXXIII, 371,372, 382 Nation, 371,383 9:30, 373,
383-84
Ozio,370,371,384
stations,
Reflecting Pool, 144
Reservations
making your own, 47-48 45-46
services,
Restaurants/dining. See also Restaurant
Index
416
Subject Index Thai, 266
Restaurants/dining.
266
American, 263
Turkish,
barbecue, 263
value rating,
Rest rooms, 109-10
269 TJ^-1 1
best afternoon teas, best burgers,
271
21\-12
best
raw
best
Sunday brunches, 272
bars,
best views, best
wine
Tl'i-lA.
best with tables in the kitchen,
biggest beef steakhouses, Brazilian,
Lee's
Robert E.
Parilla
Performing Arts Center,
Rock Creek Park Horse Center, 40 Rock Creek Park (Zone 7), 106, 142, 399 Rock Creek Tennis Center, 394
273
lists,
Birthday Celebration, 32
Robert E.
359 Rock Creek Golf Course, 401
272
best sushi bars,
256
Richard, Michel,
271
best family dining, best pizza,
262
Vietnamese, 266
263
Belgian,
273
Ronald Reagan Building, 139, 140 Roosevelt Island, 142
270
Rosecroft Raceway, 403
263
Round House Theater, 358
Burmese, 263 Caribbean, 263 chefs,
254-55, 256, 259, 260
Salvatore,
cost,
Damien, 254
Sandy Point
Chinese, 263
State Park,
257-58
for the disabled,
Senate, 176, 177
Ethiopian, 264
Shenandoah National
French, 264
Shopping (brewed on-site), 270
freshest beers
Greek, 264 Indian,
264
256-57
industry trends, Italian,
264
Japanese,
393
Scott Circle, 102
262
264
Park, 169
Adams-Morgan and antiques, 343-44 art, 344-45 bargains, 345—46 Bethesda, 342-43 bookstores, 346-47
U Street,
Capitol Hill, 343
Korean, 265 listed
by cuisine and
listed
by zone, 266-69
star rating,
locating the restaurant,
263-66
Chevy Chase, 342 art, 347
decorative
262-63
Dupont
Modern American, 265 Modern Mexican, 265
flea
most entertaining
malls in D.C.,
decor, 271
347-48 341-42
designer clothing,
Middle Eastern, 265
Circle,
337
markets,
Georgetown, 338-39
337
new downtown dining, 260-61 new hotel dining, 257 new restaurant districts, 255
museum shops, 348—49 Old Town Alexandria, 343
New Southwestern,
political
265
oriental rugs,
349
memorabilia, 349
and photography, 349-50
new Washington cookery, 253-55 Nuevo Latino, 265
prints
Pan-Asian, 265
suburban malls, 335-36
paying the pizza,
bill,
263
Portuguese,
famous people, 258-60
266
274-334 quality rating, 262 seafood, 266 Southern, 266 Spanish, 266 Tex-Mex, 266 profiles,
salon products,
Washington
350
insider items,
348
watches, 350
265
places to see
339-41
wine and gourmet foods, 350-51 writing implements, 351 Sightseeing
avoiding the heat, 176
beyond the Beltway, categories, 138-142
1
68-70
with children, 139, 146-51 Civil
War
battlefields,
170
1
Subject Index D.C.
after dark,
helpful hints
176
and
400
Tidal Basin,
170-73
tips,
Tipping, 107
intragroup incompatibility, 145-46
Torpedo
one-day touring, 166—68
Tourist seasons, 29-33, 145
photo
Tours
174, 177
tips,
Factory, 165
planning, 137-38
Bike the
touring information, 172-77
Children's Concierge,
tours,
152-77
African-American, 139 architecture,
159 1
59
Z)^«^ cruise ship, 158-59 DC Duck Tours, 158 Georgetown tour of JFK residences, 175 GNP's Scandal Tours, 159
Sight-seeing categories
art
Sites,
Covered Bridge Bicycle Tour, 396
171-72
travel tips,
417
139
Gray
museums, 139
Line, 157, 158
children, 139
Guide Service of Washington, 159
decorative arts and antiques, 140
Intragroup incompatibility, \45-i6
gardens, 140
Kalorama House and Embassy Tour, 36
government, 140
Monuments by Moonlight, 157
140
great views, 140
Odyssey ///cruises,
historical buildings
and
sites,
141
Old Town
58
157
159-163
Plan,
orientation and guided tours,
141
monuments and memorials, 141
Red Line Tour, 163
outdoors, 142
Spirit Cruises,
overview,
1
Trolley, 156,
Optimum Touring
history, 14
military,
Red Trolley, 157
Li'l
great places to walk,
158
Sugar Loaf Mountain Bicycle Tour,
138-39
398
142
places of worship,
top 20 tours, 152-55
technology, 142
Signature Theatre, 358
Tourmobile, 134-35, 157
60 Hikes within 60 Miles:Washington, D.C.
VIP
fare card,
Traffic,
122-27, 129-30, 167
58
103-4, 119, 121
Smithsonian Access, 108
by
driving,
(the Castle), 162, 182, Festival,
car,
93
34-37
184,209
the Metro, 102-3
32
by plane, 38-39, 94-99
Smithsonian's Udvar-Hazy Center, 141
taxis,
Soap Box Derby, 34
by
Soccer,
1
Transportation
Smithsonian Institution Building
Smithsonian Kite
142-43
Trabocchi, Fabio, 256
Skyline Drive, 169
SmarTrip
tours,
Washington After Dark,
399 Rountop, 400
(Elliott),
Ski
155-59
403
103, 132-33
train,
37-38, 99, 168
Travel agents, 45,
Society of the Cincinnati, 181, 185,
46-47
Travel America at Half Price
(Entertainment Publications), 44
234-35 Source Theater Co., 358
Travel packages,
Southwest Waterfront (Zone
1),
104
Tudor
Place,
48-49
140
Studio Theater, 358
Swope, Alison, 260
Union Station, 218-19
Taste of D.C. Festival, 36
U.S.
SuperShutde, 94, 99
Upper Northwest (Zone 7), 106, 268 Army Band's 1812 Overture Concert, 34
Telephones, 109 Tepper, Jason,
U.S. Botanic Garden, 140, 183, 184, 219
254
U.S. Capitol, 139, 140, 141, 152, 180,
Theater], 358
Theodore Roosevelt
Thompson Boat Ticket Place,
99, 139, 181, 184, 186,
Island,
Center,
357-58
399
399
184,220 U.S. Department of Interior, 182, 185,
228
Subject Index
418
U.S. Department of State Diplomatic
Reception Rooms, 140, 152, 180, 185,
Washington
Washington Times, 108
229 U.S. Department of the Treasury, 140, 153
Weather, 29, 31
U.S. National Arboretum, 140, 183, 186,
Web
sites
Amtrak, 168
243 U.S.
108
Post.
Washington Sports Club, 393
Navy Memorial Concerts on
Avenue
the
Arena
Stage,
357
bed-and-breakfasts, 46, 50
35
Series,
U.S. Supreme Court, 139, 140, 180, 184,
Bike the Sites tours, 159 Capital Steps, 360
221
Z)^«<^ cruise ship, 159
Day Ceremonies, 36
Veteran's
Violets Lock,
The
Company, 393 357 GNP Comedy, 361 GNP's Scandal Tours, 159 Kennedy Center, 356 Mark Russell, 360 Menasha Ridge Press, 399 Fitness
Ford's Theatre,
400
Virginia Railway Express, 168 Virginia suburbs (Zone 11),
269
Visitor Information Center, 172-73, 184
Voice of America (VOA), 140, 153, 180,
184,211-12
National Coalition for the Homeless,
Warehouse Theater, 357
Warner Theatre, 357 Washington, D.C. arriving, 93-99 geographic overview, 100-102 getting there,
33-39
maps, 8-9, 20-22, 95 street layout,
when
100—2
29-33 Washington and Old Dominion Railroad Regional Park, 395, 396 Washington Circle, 102 Washington Convention Center to go,
cabs and shuttles, 9
event calendar, 88-89
117 National Theatre, 357 Odyssey
III,
158
Rock Creek Park Horse Center, 401 Rock Creek Tennis Center, 394 Shakespeare Theater, 356 Smithsonian Institution, 173 Spirit Cruises,
158
SuperShutde, 94, 99
Tourmobile, 135 Virginia Railway Express, 168
Warner Theatre, 357 Washington Convention Center, 90
Wharf Seafood Market, 104 Wheaton, 255
lodging within walking distance, 49,
WherefWashington Magazine,
90-91
White House Easter Egg Roll, 33 Fall Garden Tours, 36
lunch alternatives, 91-92
maps, 84-87 overview, 90
Information Center, 165
parking, 91
sightseeing,
Red
Spring Garden Tours, 33
Line, 91, 164
website,
Whitetail,
90
Yellow Line, 91, 164, 165
1
09
213-14
400
Wholesalers, 45
Washington D.C. accommodations, 45
William Shakespeare's Birthday, 33
Washington
Woodrow Wilson House,
Flyer,
99
Washingtonian, 109
Washington Monument, 139, 140, 181,
181,
141, 154, 164,
185,236-37
Wooly Mammoth, 357
184,212-13 Washington National Cathedral Flower Mart, 33
Washington National Zoo, 108, 140, 164 Washington Navy Yard, 139, 14 1, 142, 180,
186,246-47
Ziebold, Eric, 254, 257
Zones, geographic,
7,
8-27
Zoo Guide for Disabled
Visitors,
108
I
Unofficial If
you would
this
Guide
Washington, D,C, Reader Survey
to
like to express
your opinion about Washington, D.C. or
guidebook, complete the following survey and mail Unofficial
it
to:
Guide Reader Survey
Box 43673 Birmingham AL 35243 P.O.
Inclusive dates of your
Members of your party:
Person
visit:
1
Person 2
Person 3
Person 4
MF
MF
MF
MF
Gender:
Person
5
MF
Age:
How many times have you been to Washington, D.C? On your most recent trip, where did you stay? Concerning your accommodations, on worst,
how would you
The
The quality of your room? The quietness of your room? Swimming pool facilities?
Did you
Concerning your
100
as best
and
as
value of your room?
Check-in/check-out efficiency?
From whom?
rent a car?
would you
a scale of
rate:
rental car,
on
a scale of
1
00
as best
and
as worst,
how
rate:
Pick-up processing efficiency?
Return processing efficiency?
Condition of the
Cleanliness of the car?
car?
Airport shuttle efficiency?
Concerning your dining experiences: Including
food, estimate your meals in restaurants per day:
fast
Approximately
how much
did your party spend on meals per day?
Favorite restaurants in Washington,
Did you buy
this
guide before leaving? CH
How did you hear about this Loaned or recommended by
guide? (check a friend
Internet CH
X
it
out on
my own
CJ
while on your all
trip?
[J
that apply)
TV
Radio or
[J
Bookstore salesperson LJ
Newspaper or magazine CH Just picked
D.C.
LJ
Library
—
I
Unofficial
Guide
to Washington^
D.C. Reader Survey
(continued)
What
On
other guidebooks did you use on this trip?
a scale of
100
Using the same
as best
scale,
and
how would you
Are Unofficial Guides readily available
Have you used other
Which
how would you
as worst,
rate
at
rate
them?
The Unofficial Guide(s)?
bookstores in your area?
Unofficial Guides?
one(s)?
Comments about your Washington, D.C.
trip or
The Unofficial Guide(s):
X
From the publishers of The Unofficial Guide® to Walt Disney World® 'indispensable"
"A Tourist's Best Friend!'
—
— Chicago Sun-Times
New
Tiie
Times
Yorl<
The Top 10 Ways Ttie Unofficial Guide to Wastiington, Can Help You Have the Perfect Trip:
D.C.
and O and and ranked Q — and Q More and and Q A complete most making — government on where you Q The work and around know you need Q Metro on — and Q on and work go and shop Q The and Washington Q most and make on how © Information
totally objective
that's candid, critical,
for value
Hotels reviewed
quality
plus secrets
for getting the lowest possible rate
20 nightclubs reviewed in detail
than 90 restaurants
ranked
guide to Washington's cultural
of your time
the
with helpful hints for
sights
historic
can watch your
inside story
at
Everything
quickly
get
to
to
including complete details
easily
the
gardens, plus the
exploring Washington's parks
Tips
best places to play golf
places
best
souvenirs,
for
to
out
boating,
tennis,
bargains,
eclectic
haute couture
imports,
with your kids
Proven strategies for enjoying
of your business
the
to plan
Advice
trip
Get the unbiased truth on hundreds of hotels, restaurants, attractions, and more in Unofficial Guide to Washington, D.C— the resource that helps you save money,
The
save time, and
An Cover design by Michael
}.
make your
Unofficial
Freeland.
the best
trip
it
can
be.
Guide
Cover photo
©
Gabriel M. Covian/Getty Images.
ISBN 0-7645-7557-0
ISBN 0-7645-7557-0
51699
U.S. $16.99
CAN
$24.99
U.K. £11.99
8th Edition 9
780764"575570'
85555"89166""
i