This book was made possible through the very kind co-operation of Impalila Island Lodge. Specifically this venture would not have corne to fruition without the aid and encouragement of Karen and Dusty Rodgers, Mike and Susan Rothbletz and Simon Parker. Indeed during the period of research all the staff of the Lodge went out of their way to make writing this book a pleasure. A second thanks to Zimbabwe Express Airlines who were able to provide an efficient air service to transport the author to Victoria Falls and safely horne again. And last, but not least, to my Mother, who once again held the fort while her son went writing and fishin'.
All rights reserved.
Previous flyfishing books by Malcolm Meintjes Trout on the Veld The Suggestive Flyfisher Trout Trails of the Transvaal Trout Trails Revisited The Trout and the Kingfisher An Okavango Season Trout Through the Looking-Glass
Published by: The Entrepot POBox 2459 Edenvale 1610 South Africa First Edition 1999 ISBN 0-9584024-4-2 Printed by The Natal Witness Printing and Publishing Company (Pty) Ltd
CONTENTS Page Chapter One - The World of the Zambezi .................................
4'
Chapter Two - Where Four Countries Meet ..............................
6
Chapter Three - Angling Fish of the Upper Zambezi ..................
8
Chapter Four - Tackling up for Tiger .........................................
18
Chapter Five - Into The Lair of the Tiger .................................. 27
Chapt,?r Six
- Adventures at Impalila.......................................
Appendix
-What, How, When and Where................. .... ...... 48
Cover photograph: Flyfishing the Zambezi at sunset
31
Chapter One
THE WORLD OF THE ZAMBEZI The Zambezi is one of the great rivers of Africa. It flows from the highlands of Zambia east across the southern half of the continent for over twoand-a-half thousand kilometers until it washes into the sea, south of the port of Quelimane off the sea-board of Mozambique. The upper river, a mere forest trickle at birth, gathers momentum in its southwards drift, and then, as if forewarned of danger from the thirsty sands of the Kalahari, swings parallel to the equator until it thunders over the great chasm of Mosi-oa-Tunya the Victoria Falls. Through the zig-zag formation of the Batoka Gorge it hurtles and then, more calmly, enters first the great expanse of Lake Kariba and then Mozambique's Cahora Bassa dam. Thus begins the lower river which, almost thankfully, after passing through six countries, eventually makes its peace with the Indian Ocean. These pages tell of a ribbon of uniqueness on the upper river where the boundaries of Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Namibia meet. There lies the Island of Impalila at the eastern tip of the Caprivi Strip of Namibia. There too, the Zambezi's waters are joined by those of the famed Chobe, life stream of one of Africa's renowned wildlife reserves. Is this too, not the river-dream of the renowned missionary-explorer David Livingstone who, it is said, was the first white man to set eyes on the greatest curtain of falling water in the world the Victoria Falls? It was the Zambezi that fueled his life quest to overcome the slave-trade that riddled the heart of Africa in the mid-Nineteenth Century and it was its west-east watercourse that tempted him to believe it might be Africa's eventual salvation. What most have not appreciated is that there are precious few places in the world where two wonderful great angling rivers join force. Livingstone mentioned the tiger fish, but his eyes were drawn more to the heavens where, in addition to constant guidance from above, he noted the fishhawk, the snake-bird and the flashes of the tiny blue-and-orange jewel that we now know as the malachite kingfisher. 4
ZAMBEZI TIGER
What is remarkable is that such an angling paradise was the subject of meagre attention. Birds, yes! Game, yes! But even though explorers faced starvation, there is little or no mention of the bounty that lies beneath the waters. Hunters and other naturalists seemingly devoted sparse time to the fish of the Zambezi. Could Livingstone, a Scotsman from Blantyre, honestly not have been sufficiently prompted to have made serious inquiry upon thc richness of the piscatorial palate? The samc man who was not averse to stuffing an illegal salmon down the trouser leg of his younger brother? Did the distinguished hunter, Selous, who stalked pike in his youth, never feast upon the sumptuous tilapia or largemouth bream when on safari in the "Chobe Swamps"? How could his compatriot French have wandered off, never to be seen again, though a mere gunshot away, from the main party. How could he not have followed the Chobe to safety? Much current literature extols the virtue of the Zambezi and Chobe, yet only offers up the ubiquitous photograph of a fish eagle sweeping down upon a papyrus-stuffed sacrifice or a mixed basket of bream, tilapia, squeakers and bulldogs brought back by a local villager. And yet, when the angler - indeed the flyfisher - sets out at day break, he is in for a treat of the first order, for there is no advance warning of what the day will bring. Elephant, buffalo, puku and lechwe, fish eagle, malachite kingfisher or blue-cheeked bee-eater will be his visible compatriots and, of course, the opportunity to cross swords with a most remarkable freshwater fish - the never-to-be-forgotten "striped water-dog". This is the first book to lay emphasis on the fish of the region from the perspective of the angler and, more specifically, the flyfisher. May it not be the last.
ZAMBEZI TIGER
5
Chapter Two
WHERE FOUR COUNTRIES MEET Impalila Island Lodge is perched almost on top of the Zambezi. From the stilted chalets hidden within the camouflaged embrace of mighty baobabs and wild date palms, what better than to linger on the open verandah, steaming cup of coffee in hand, and watch the sun rise, pink-flushed over Zambia. Through the night and now silver-glinting in the early morning, one is quietly aware of the insistent rush of the river, for the Lodge lies at the head of the Mambova rapids. Below them lies Kazungula - the end of the Caprivi Strip and a place where four countries meet. The Mambova rapids (also called Mombova) are neither steep nor jagged, but more a division of the river into parts - of hastening channels spraying into bubbling runs; where connorants and rock pratincoles sun themselves, and small fish glint as they turn in the lee water of the rocks. When the river is low enough, Mambova is navigable by mokoro (native dugout boat) and a wonderful opportunity exists to explore; to fish the fly from the waterline. Angling on the main river is generally a comfortable pastime undertaken in 60 hp boats that easily navigate a pair of flyfishers, allowing them to ply their trade over many miles of river. I say, flyfishers, but the majority of anglers and visitors opt for spinning lure or bait. With the experience of the lodge's guides on call and all but fly tackle provided, there is ample opportunity to savour the experience. Angling potential is inexhaustible and though the angler's emphasis is normally squarely focused on the tiger fish, there are other species present that may come into the reckoning. While the Chobe invariably provides wonderful game viewing which overshadows any thought of angling, the Zambezi can be explored upstream for forty kilometers and more on a full day's outing. So too the lesser known and more contented Indibi which courses through the heart of the Caprivi floodplains. Yet, there is no great need to venture far afield, for the Kasai channel, which begins a mere kilometer from the lodge, links the Zambezi to the Chobe. In this wonderful stretch of water, double-figure tiger fish are not infrequently hooked. 6
ZAMBfll TIGER
There is little to better a day on the upper river, for other boats, if one discounts the mokoros of the local villagers, are a rarity. Here where the river is more expansive, spinning and bait anglers have amply demonstrated that fish to 20 lb and more exist. Even the fly rod, puny as it may seem, has accounted for tigers up to fifteen pounds. These are specimen fish and if you place esteem upon a trout of such size, imagine a rainbow or brown with fangs of steel using a current of irresistible, though controlled power. Allow your imagination some leeway, for no harm is done and your daydream of monster fish has every chance of coming true. In any event, brace yourself for a tussle with a tiger of 4 - 6 lb, it is well able to give an excellent account of itself. Unless it is a full day out, the call of a late brunch allows for an early morning session upriver to the village at Kalikaliga, Nantungu or into the Indibi. In the afternoon, a drift along the Kasai casting under the mud banks will spill one eventually into the Chobe in time for the best of the game viewing. This is an event not to be missed, for game viewing from the water's edge allows one a close up of elephant or buffalo. Seldom have we missed the herds, at times almost within touching distance, arriving at the waterside or swimming the river to emigrate to Namibia. Elephant, in particular, have become a common sight, for their numbers swell with every year, but there is much more for the keen of eye to fasten onto as dusk settles. With chance on our side, we have been fortunate and glimpsed lion resting up under bankside trees and one will inevitably make the close acquaintance of the dear Chobe bushbuck and spot puku, red lechwe and kudu. To get close to them one must venture past often outraged hippo and curiously somnambulant crocodiles, the latter blinking no more than an idle eye at passers-by. Most who visit Impalila are not dedicated anglers. They come in search of Africa, to experience a surfeit of game and birdlife. And what a wealth of birdlife there is! No dedicated birder am I but one cannot fail to acknowledge their presence. From the yellow-bellied bulbuls pillaging the early morning coffee tray of anything resembling a biscuit, to the blue-cheeked bee-eaters hunching close in regimented lines along the papyrus at eventide. ZAMBEZI TIGER
7
Every boat trip down the Kasai is negotiated in the company of white and brown squacco herons and flushes of reed cormorants and darters. And the quiet backwaters are infiltrated by the chequered hovering of the pied kingfishers. Who too can resist attending the delicate stepping act of the African jacana on the lily pads? Who can be blamed should angling be seen as no more than a passing show as a result of this expanse of fortune. Yet, even those who do not regard themselves as brethren of the angle invariably are entranced by one of the great fighting fish of the world. Many, confronted by the opportunity to do battle with the tiger, do not turn it aside. It is all there, merely for the doing.
Chapter Three
ANGLING FISH OF THE UPPER ZAMBEZI Much of our discussion will rightly revolve around the tiger fish and it, undoubtedly, is the principal lure attracting anglers to the Zambezi. Yet, do not discount the value of other species that, at various times of the year, provide icing on an already delectable cake. Many flyfishers find much pleasure in the various challenges facing them and love to angle for slender wild brown trout in small streams as much as catching large rainbows in roaring nvers. Another common objective is in seeking different types of fish both in freshwater and the salt. There is satisfaction in being able to add additional species to one's fly-caught list and the Upper Zambezi provides scope to include another half-dozen to your collection.
In all, there are 86 known species of fish in the Upper Zambezi, though most are seldom seen and of limited value to the angler because of their size and the difficulty factor in presenting a lure or fly to them. Some will accept artificial lures and fly reasonably readily while, on bait, the selection is wider, for one never knows what will pluck at the end of the 8
ZAMBEZI TIGER
line. One day up the Indibi with Timothy, I was surprised to see the relatively uncommon banded jewelfish greedily engulf a small spinner-bait. I have also taken striped robbers and butter barbel on a size 4 fly which, I might add, was no longer than the fish itself - hooked squarely in the mouth. Apart from tiger fish (Hydrocynus), the species of greatest interest to the flyfisher are the various largemouth bream (Serranchromis) , tilapia (Tilapia) , happys (Sargochromis), catfish (Clarias) and the aggressive African pike (Hepsetus). However, unless you venture off the beaten track, the tiger fish, by far, will be the main combatant. The catfish is a possible interloper, powerful enough to keep one excited for a fair span of time until its identity is revealed, while the nembwe (olive bream), which frequents moving water as well, may intercept one's lure intended for the tiger. It is a consideration, once some tigers are under the belt to spend some time in the quieter backwaters on the Kasai, Indibi and Chobe in search of pike, tilapia and largemouth bream. Catfish, will be found spread throughout the area and, though they are singularly unattractive to all non-Picasso lovers, they are fascinating in their own right and not as easy to catch as one might think. The term, "bream", is frequently used in Southern Africa and the Zambezi/Chobe region is no exception. It is a generic word employed loosely to apply to pretty much any fish that has no feline connection - that is, neither tiger nor cat. Scientifically speaking, "bream" is not regarded as appropriate, for it has already been used to denote those indeterminate fish found on menus of popular seaside hotels. The terminology has a drawback from an angling perspective as well, in that it does not encourage fishers to distinguish what was caught everything becomes a "bream'·. I have sympathy with anglers. It is not easy, even for those more experienced, to tell the difference and even if one recognises a tilapia, it can be guesswork as to which tilapia it is. However, where a tiger fish is concerned there is no such confusion, although the scientific community came within a hair's breadth of amendZAMBEZI TIGER
9
ing the beautiful Hydrocynus vittatus into H. forskahli before it was decided to retain the status quo.
Portrait of a Tiger To any angler, the tiger fish throws down a steely gauntlet. Even to the old hats, a tinge of delightful apprehension invades the emotions. This is, after all, a fish that has a reputation of leaving gashes in the sides of lures such as rapalas. It can, given enough encouragement, destroy a fly entirely. It is a no-holds barred brawler and the fly angler who hooks a tiger of 4 - 8
Ib will be under no illusions as to what is happening in his world. You may hear it whispered (quietly) that the tiger has limited stamina, but in all truth, the majority of tiger fish depart, often with leader and fly, long before any stamina is required. All the double-figure fish (pounds, of course) I have been privileged to encounter have fought through the halfhour with little quarter asked. Even a small one of a pound or so will keep one busy with a variety of antics.
Vittatus is handsome with a forked orange-tipped tail, and a streamlined silver outline daubed with horizontal ebony stripes. The river fish is leaner than its stillwater counterpart, the tail more powerful and it is usually regarded as a better fighter. No one who has gazed upon that splendid form can be under any illusion as to its demeanour. It is a portrait of a fighting fish, handsome is as handsome does and with fearsome fangs which set it aside from pretty much anything else on the continent. The "striped water-dog" despite not attaining the massive weights of its cousin, the Goliath tiger fish, is no stripling. In the Zambezi lakes they have reached in excess of 40 lb. At Impalila, lure anglers have landed them up to 20 lb; the flyfishers up to 15 lb. It will, therefore, come as no great surprise to learn that the tiger fish is a predator which feeds on a variegated menu of pretty much anything that swims. High on the list are the minnows such as "robbers" (Brycinus and A lestes) , squeakers (Synodontis) and the strange-looking and enigmatic bulldogs (Marcusenius) and churchills (Petrocephalus). In addition, do 10
ZAMBEZI TIGER
not forget a substantial list of "bream" that even tigers only a few inches long will happily harass. I might also mention that, in the early morning, there is often a prolific mayfly hatch on the river, substantial enough to cause any fly fisher to wet his lips. I have seen tigers rising - indeed head-and-tailing ~ and surmise that they might not be averse to a meal of emerging or spent mayfly when the occasion presents itself. (The head-and-tail rise is a recognised rise form for trout feeding on midge pupae or floating snails.) Despite its war-like character, there are times when tigers appear fickle in their diet. Consistency in catching them may well count on an appreciation of a current feeding preference as much as technique. Do not assume that these wild fish will necessarily throw themselves at the first colourful offering. However, there are times when tigers do erupt in a feeding frenzy, such as when small prey sift back into the main river from the floodplains. I recall one morning, when a pack of big tigers occupied the upper end of a channel near Kalikaliga. Hidden between banks of green fosia grass, an almost imperceptible current pushed into the channel. We placed ourselves strategically and waited. The water was clear and through my polaroids, I saw the flash of turning school fish. In went the Yellow Rabbit fluttering down into the depths and as I began the retrieve and the fly stuttered, it was seized by a marauder which hurtled in from nowhere. The fight was short-lived. A knot appeared in the flailing fly line and in a flash, both fly and fish were gone. The tiger estimated at 6lb jumped twice in apparent triumph. The pattern of the feeding spree was evident. Small minnows and bream were being herded back into the channel by receding floodwaters. As they entered the more substantial water, the tigers were there to welcome them. One may come upon a feeding splurge at any time and though these are generally short-lived, I have known them to last for more than a day or two. A more specific instance of increased activity is after the river has been stirred up by hippo. There, tiger fish will hurl themselves on almost anything, even when the fly has been reduced to shreds of red wool. Do not ZAMBEZI TIGER
11
ever attempt to fish such a site until the hippo have moved away though. To do so is truly foolhardy and dangerous. When tiger are not as overtly active, avoid necessarily marking a day as poor simply because the favourite bucktail streamer has not elicited any response. Weather conditions, such as a cold front or even a cool breeze on the day can put the fish down for a while causing one to re-assess techniques. Establishing whether there is an abundance of a particular foodsort in the vicinity may solve the conundrum. Tiger fish may not be as selective as trout yet particular fly patterns can appear to dominate over a period of time. For example, in October through to December, an abundance of bulldogs (Marcusenius) prevail, while in Winter an ample sufficiency of minnows fi1ters in from the floodplains. At such times, I have respectively found the success rate of the Bulldog fly and a slim Yellow Rabbit to be superior to the general bucktail favourites. Accordingly, adaptation is the key. Success on these days, has largely depended on establishing a feeding preference and matching the fly to that with regard to body shape, colour, size and movement. Then it's a question of technique; of getting the fly into the right area and depth. We will. of course, spend much more time on the tiger in the following chapters and specific techniques used.
A division of Serranchromis One of the more common classifications of "bream" is the genus Serranchromis which relates to the various largemouth species. They are attractive to the flyfisher and there are three types in particular which reach an agreeable size, take a fly and put up a good account. Two more, the purpleface and brownspot largemouths, have been known to grace anglers creels if anyone does carry such a thing around these days - but they do not go beyond a pound in weight. Top of the list and a not-uncommon capture in winter is the extremely beautiful nembwe (Serranchromis robustus jallae), also known as the olive bream, which is one of the few fish to have retained an African name. 12
ZAMBEZI TIGER
Regional names do differ, however, and the nembwe is also known as the sungwa or tsungwa in Malawi. The nembwe is extremely attractive, though its colouring does vary from a dark olive to a light green. With yellow throat and orange lining the fins, it can be truly spectacular. It is found in the main river and is accustomed to the force of the stream,
which is why such a capture when out after tigers is a distinct possibility. The old-time anglers often remarked that the difference between catching tiger fish and nembwe was that the tiger opted for chasing the lure upstream, while the nembwe attacked it as it dropped downstream. Probably it was because the downstream falling lure was reaching greater depths. It puts up a respectable fight especially when hooked close to cover where it has the ability to dive back into snagging structure and free itself if the angler allows it sufficient ground. I have always regarded the nembwe as more of a winter fish. It is predominantly during the months of July through to September that a day's outing may include a nembwe in the bag. This does not mean that nembwe disappear for the remainder of the year, but catches even amongst lure anglers are relatively few and far between. Why this should be, still remains something of a puzzle, but I suspect that a tactical aberration may be a major cause. While they may be hesitant to take fly or spinner, they are present. I remember a recce up the Indibi. We tied up to some brush in a bay and while two of us fished the margins with fly, Timothy dropped a worm into the branches beneath us. Within 15 minutes, he had hooked three reasonable nembwe while we touched nothing. Apart from that excursion, only one other nembwe was caught by other visitors during the entire stay. The flyfisher is at a general disadvantage in relation to the other forms of angling. Mudbanks are favoured places for nembwe to hide, but invariably these are found along the direct line of current. The speed of the current does not make it easy for the fly to be fished at depth consistently and consequently the retrieve is outside of the nembwe's strike zone. The conventional method of catching them involves trolling close to such banks where a large fatrap can wobble into the depths. The flyfisher needs to work a ZAMBEZI TIGER
13
whole lot harder and can regard any capture of a nembwe as an achievement. The Zambezi and environ sport some excellent specimens and to date the average size has been in the region of 4 lb. My heaviest on fly is 7!lb but in 1958, there was a report of a nembwe of 13 Ib taken in the Mambova rapids. The next division of Serranchromis is the thinface largemouth (Serranchromis. angusticeps) and humpback largemouth bream (Serranchromis altus) which, until recently, were regarded as one species and known as thinface largemouths. Specimens caught were either dark or sported an attractive yellow hue around the head and gill area. In years past, they were also known as speckle-cheeked bream and even marbled bream. In those days, the pretty speckle-cheeked variety were thought to be the female thinface, but since 1990 we have been informed that there are, in fact, two separate species. To summarise. The yellow speckle-cheeked variety is now known as the thinface largemouth (S. angusticeps), while the darker fish is classified as the humpback largemouth (S. altus). In over a decade of catching these fish, a clear delineation, is not easily recalled. My records suggest that most of the specimens caught were the darker fish, for I can recall only a few as being distinctly "specklecheeked". Either the yellow colouring is less apparent in younger fish or the dominant species is indeed the darker specimen now re-named as humpbacks. I have never consciously noticed any great differences in behaviour between the two. They appear to prefer slower weedy channels and backwaters, rather like largemouth black bass which ambush their prey. Or, if found near the main stream, will invariably be in the vicinity of structure along the reverse current. Unlike the nembwe, I would not expect them to be in fast water. Although records show that they are caught all year round in the Zambezi, 14
ZAMBEZI TIGER
I am inclined to think that the more ideal habitat is to be found in the more sedate Indibi and Chobe. They too become more active or perhaps more accessible to the flyfisher in the cooler months of July - September and a look at the fish in the nets seems to confirm this. Given a vegetated habitat, they are safeguarded from most anglers who prefer open water. By neglecting the shallower snag-infested areas, thinface and humpback will escape the attentions of the majority of anglers. A good-sized largemouth can put a bend in the rod, but there will usually not be long runs as a consequence of the habitat; rather a determined push to submerged obstructions and some surface head-shaking. After a morning of tiger fish, one must adapt to the largemouth's softer mouth and take care not to lose the fish by over-robust pressure. I mentioned other largemouths which may be encountered, specifically the brownspot largemouth (S. thumbergi) and the very attractive purpleface largemouth (S. macrocephalus). Both of these will take a fly but, invariably will not be more than a pound in weight. Purpleface are taken from the nets of the local fishers along the Zambezi, but one must regard their value to the flyfisher as limited.
The world of the Tilapia Tilapia too, have been put under the scientific spotlight and distinctions made between those which are mouth brooders and those which are substrate spawners. If you ever get around to peering inside the mouth of tilapia, you will find the mouth brooders to have fine teeth while sub-stratum breeders have coarse teeth. Consequently, mouth brooders have been re-classified as Oreochromis. To the average angler, however, everything still remains "tilapia". For the purposes of clarity I have only dealt with those tilapia that are likely to be encountered. The greenhead tilapia (T. macrochir), for example, is seldom taken, except on bait. To date I have not caught one on fly, but believe that with patience and thought it is possible. The redbreast tilapia (Tilapia rendalli) is far more accommodating and is one of the strongest fighters "pound for pound" that you will find on a fly. How he manages to get his mouth around some of the monstrous patterns ZAMBflI TIGER
15
that are hurled in his direction is beyond me, but he does. He will put up a worthy fight that will deceive you into thinking you are attached to a much larger fish. Initially the redbreast was classified as T. melanopleura which translates as "blackskin". Whoever, was doing the analysing, presumably had a very dead fish on his hands and any vestige of colour had long since departed to a far better world. Admittedly, the red-breast, or as it might more accurately be described, "pink chest" is not always evident at first glance in the live fish, but it does become apparent shortly after the fish has expired. As a substrate spawner, the redbreast tends to hang around calm margins scouring a plate-sized nest there. Although it does not always have size on its side, it uses its rotund body to rush back to the lilypads leaving a light fly rod with plenty to do. Anything over two pounds is a redbreast to be admired. The threespot tilapia (Oreochromis andersoni) is equally a fish to be admired. In the Zambezi, there is always the chance of an outsize specimen being caught but once again, one should ideally forsake the fast waters, concentrating on deep slower channels. Having said that, one day on the Kasai, where we had spotted some bird and catfish activity, I hooked a fish which flummoxed us as to its identity. Eventually we were surprised (and delighted) to see the steel-gray form of a threespot coming to the boat. Very often the threes pot can attain a good average size - around 2~ to 3 lb, but anything over 4 lb is unusual. There are bigger fish present and one day a party of journalists caught a specimen of 6 lb, no more than 500 m. from the Lodge. When deliberately searching for threespot, I am more than happy to be in the company of a spinfisher. Through October - March, tilapia will grab hold of a small red or yellow Mepps spinner. While the flyfisher is often last to profit from a shoal, the action by others does give him an idea of where and at what depth to place his fly. Generally, threespot move in small shoals, so action is fast and furious for a short period before they move off. 16
ZAMBEZI TIGER
711l' great baobab at the Lodge.
ViCfOr
11';111 a lhreespnt (;{(lpia.
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.! i oJ ,I
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African Pike (Hepsetus odoe) We have always found pike tucked away in some quiet backwater. They are remarkably handsome in body but not in character. The head is ugly and betrays a vicious outlook on life. Fortunately the teeth are blunt, though this does not stop them from trying to remove one's finger when unhooking them. They grow to no great size and the specimens I have seen have been long and slim rather like pickereL Be sure that if one is encountered, more are likely to be in the vicinity. Bream tend to move out of the area when pike move in, although I recall one morning when over a dozen pink happys (Sargochromis) took the fly in an Tndibi backwater despite the presence of pike.
Catfish (Clarias gariepinus) I suppose there are few places in the world where a catfish (or as it is also known, barbel) is crowned in the beauty stakes and the ubiquitous sharptooth catfish is no exception. However, one must give them credit for they can provide some worthy sport. It is perhaps unfair to groan with disappointment when the angler discovers he has hooked a catfish of 20 lb instead of a massive tiger fish he was hoping for. Catfish seldom jump, preferring to go deep with an inexorable pulL They will keep one busy for quite a time as it is often difficult to turn their heads to put pressure on. They are often seen swirling on the surface, but one must look carefully at the form of the rise, to distinguish whether it is a feeding swirl or a visit to the surface in search of oxygen. It is exciting to see these great specimens surfacing, but you will know soon enough whether they are "on" or not. They will take a fly or spinner when in the mood and I have caught them regularly by using a fast sinking line - and a smallish Muddler Minnow (which has floating propensities). Usually this is achieved in slower water where the line can be allowed to sink to the bottom. I use a slow figure-of-eight retrieve and very often the Muddler is taken as it leaves the bottom i.e. directly under the boat. We ZAMBEZI TIGER
17
have also, by the way, had some success on other waters with a sink-tip line. There is no reason to suppose this will not work on the Zambezi. One interesting feature of the river is that below the Falls, the vundu (Heterobranchus longifilii) which can attain sizes over 100 lb is present, but it is not found above the Falls.
Other species In a book of this nature, it would be pointless to spend too much time on many of the other species that may end up in the net. One, that has been mentioned is the Pink happy (Sargochrornis giardi) and specimens of up to SIb have been caught near the camp. Generally however they are much smaller and would only satisfy a species hunter.
Chapter Four
TACKLING UP FOR TIGER Fly Rods The Zambezi flyfisher contends not only with the possibility of very big fish, but that for most part of any angling day, the main adversary will be a deceptively powerful current. It is sensible, especially on a trip of only three or four days, to arm yourself with a 9 ft AFTMA 8/9 rod. By all means bring a lighter outfit along, but do not be put at an unnecessary disadvantage. There is a question mark about light tackle being able to sink a fly into the depths and give proper presentation when tiger fish are deeper down. Though lighter fly rods make repetitive casting a pleasure, it will be frustrating to battle the main river all day long. In this water, the heavier rod and line will sink the fly to the level of the fish, for tiger fish are not inveterate surface marauders always running close to the top. Indeed, many better specimens often retire deeper, away from the predations of fish-eagles in particular. A tiger fish, no matter its size, which spends too much time near the surface will eventually aUract a feathered predator and I have, on 18
ZAMBEZI TIGER
occasions seen dead or dying tiger tlsh floating downriver with talon gouges across the back. I have had other regrets when persisting with a lighter outtlt on big water. Some exceptional specimens have been hooked which then swing into the current and away downriver, forcing us to follow them. Whether the result would have been different had a more powerful rod been used is hard to say, but as I watched the big fish careering across 80 m of river and only then avail themselves of the power of the current, I wished for more firepower to hold that first run. When following a big fish, any slack almost certainly means the end of the brawl. Away from the mainstream, the lighter outfit can be enjoyed to the full. In calmer waters or where the heavier sinking line is not required, it is a pleasure to be able to use a 5 weight rod. A caution, though. Very big tiger fish patrol quieter channels as well. The anticipation in searching these areas is that one never quite knows what will pick up the fly and a tiger fIsh may not be the biggest fish that swims within sight of your offering.
Fly reels I would heartily recommend that the reel be able to hold at least 100 m of backing and have a more than competent drag system. In fact, fill your reel almost to the rim, either with extra backing or with tape. Apart from the obvious greater security with a long-distance fish, another advantage is that of being able to reel in faster. Very often a tiger fish will reverse direction, coming back quickly towards one and a reel that can allow prompt recovery of slack line is a life-saver. A relatively empty reel requires a faster rewind which is unable to keep pace with the speed of the tlsh. A smooth and consistent drag is well worthwhile having at one's disposal, for one can neither playa tiger fish too softly, nor hold on for dear life. When the fish runs some distance, the probability of the hook being dislodged at the end of the run increases because of the belly that appears in the line or through an insecure hook hold. Any drag system allowing for constant pressure makes the fish work harder for distance gained on the tlrst run without fear of dislodging the hook. ZAMBEZI TIGER
19
Fly Lines My two first choice lines would be an extra-fast sinker and an intermediate line. Bigger tiger, as previously mentioned, are often found a few meters down and the extra-fast sinker allows one to search these depths quickly and efficiently. Many Southern African flyfishers, unused to angling in powerful rivers can underestimate the need for the extra fast sinking lines. Heavier lines can battle extremely high water experienced between April and June. Thus when I talk of an extra-fast sinker, a mere fast sinker is not sufficient. One variation of the extra-fast sinker is the lead-core shooting head. This ten meter section of fly line attached to running line does not only allow for long-distance casting, but keeps the heavier lead-core piece of line deeper all the way to the boat. In this way the fly fishes along the bottom for a longer period of time. While a shooting head can be used in water conditions similar to that of the extra-fast sinker, I have experienced situations such as those in drifting through the channel just above the Kazungula ferry where bait anglers get regular pick-ups, but the fly angler remains fishless. Where even the extra fast sinker is hard pressed to stay in the strike zone, the lead-core shooting head may just give that extra dimension. During a normal hot, bright day on the main river, my preference, in the absence of indicators to the contrary, would be to employ the extra-fast sinking line. In the early morning, late evening and perhaps when fishing rapids, the slow sinker or intermediate line comes more into its own. Dusk, in particular, is a time when surface movement in the tail of pools is observed. On a fine, calm evening after a sweltering day, it is exhilarating to see the orange-tipped tail of a huge tiger stirring the surface. With an intermediate line, there is every chance that you will be rewarded with a snatch on a shallow-running pattern. When the river runs lower from September - February, the Mambova rapids can be explored from a mokoro. The intermediate line allows the fly to sweep across subsidiary currents without snagging, but as it gets warmer and brighter, the fish sink lower and a deeper retrieve, though it chases dangerously close to the rocks, is the better bet if one wants to achieve success. 20
ZAMBEZI TIGER
In trout fishing, I use a floating line 95% of the time and enjoy it to the full, but in the strong Zambezi current, the line creates unnecessary surface "drag". Hence my preference for the intermediate over the floater. In lily-chequered backwaters, the floating line is useful given a generously long leader. Redbreast tilapia often swirl away from under lily-pads if one drifts too close, but the threespot tilapia seem to prefer deeper channels. I have accomplished more with slower sinking lines, but would be more than happy to experiment to a greater degree with the floater, if only for the enjoyment it provides. Relatively little time has been spent with a sink-tip line Le. a floating line with a sinking tip section, but would not discard it altogether. There are times that it has proved productive with both tiger, nembwe and catfish and possibly the angle of retrieve may have something to do with its efficacy. Not wishing to miss out on any potential, a floating line with a poly-tip or poly leader is in my tackle bag just in case suitable conditions present themselves. The visiting angler may not have the space to include the entire range of lines, though given the spool system on lightweight reels, it is possible to pack in three or four alternatives. The more options that can be brought into play, the better the overall chance of success.
Leaders There are some, fascinated by terminal tackle, who can spend hours debating the advantages of one set-up over another. To the extent that the eventual result must be competent and effective, I am in total agreement, but in addition to strength and security, ease of tying and speed of accomplishment are to be commended. The leader material I prefer is a stiff brand of monofilament such as Maxima of 12 Ib breaking strength (0.32 mm diameter). Some years ago I discovered a Maxima brand with a matt (dull) texture rather than shiny. Why a preference for a "non-reflective" monofilament? Given my opinion concerning tigers striking at shiny swivels, I feel more comfortable eliminating shine of any sort, including that emanating from a steel trace or ZAMBEZI TIGER
21
nylon for that matter. I experimented with Swaziland tiger fish one year by using fluorocarbon leaders which are more shiny, but also more abrasionresistant, but found that I lost fish more than usuaL When I reverted back to the Maxima, the losses stopped. Steel and wire traces are intended to eliminate the possibility of a tiger fish to "bite you off'. That fish are still lost even when using a trace is acknowledged with astonishment, but never queried further. If anything, the angler responds by increasing the length and/or strength of such a trace. That steel traces may be not be totally secure has seldom been the subject of debate. Over the years, I have seen bait anglers who use foot-long wire traces and spinfishers equally punished, especially when tigers are feeding frantically. On one occasion, a trio of anglers, all using traces, and into good tiger fish were all left trailing limp nylon within twenty seconds. Steel trace and all were gone. Where bait is used, it is sometimes explained that the loss of the trace was due to the tiger swallowing the bait and then biting through the vulnerable nylon. This has logic, but still fails to explain how the same happens to the art lure angler. There is, in these instances, no time for the lure to be swallowed, though sometimes the tiger can take the lure or fly deeper which may increase fraying of the line. It has however been observed that, another tiger fish, attracted by the commotion of a hooked fish, may attack a tiny steel swivel at the trace and cause the damage. So much so that many anglers now use small black swivels as a substitute, but although they improve the situation, they still do not guarantee a positive result. Though I do not now use either steel or wire trace, much to the consternation of my compatriots, I once upon a time suffered it in the belief that it would save me a great many flies. However I have always disliked casting a strip of wire through the air with the resultant effect on presentation, not to mention the kink that invariably appears in the trace after a strike. Yet, I too still lost fish from time to time and put it down to a situation where tiger fish were excited. I turned to stiff monofilament for bream fishing and found that I caught tiger without the expected losses. Thereafter, I only resorted to traces where a tiger feeding frenzy was in progress. 22
ZAMBEZI TIGER
Alternatives such as kevlar and "fire line" were experimented with, but neither of these provided any greater success. The 12-15 Ib stiffer monofilament approach over the years has had its losses, yet some of the biggest tigers have been landed after exceptionally long battles. If tigers did bite through nylon as easily as one is led to believe, then it should have been impossible to land any tiger fish, let alone the many I have up to 14! lb. I examine the monofilament after each take or fight and have found evidence of fraying or shredding of the nylon, but few clean bites except when small tiger are around. Some very big fish were played for half-an-hour with no shredding at all, but I have also lost a couple after that time due to fraying. I also observed that the shredding could at times be detected some way up the leader, particularly where a big fish gets close to the boat and is being played deep. Often one can feel the line catching, probably on the huge tail. This created the possibility that the line frayed either from body or gill contact, explaining how the line could part so high up the leader. I have heard from some of my colleagues who do sea angling that the same sort of chafing across a rough body occurs, leaving one with the impression that the fish has" bitten one off'. In the end, I leave it to you to decide whether you wish to use a trace for it is important to be comfortable with the approach taken. Turning to the length of the leader. Since much of the fishing, particularly in the Zambezi, will be done in powerful water, a shorter leader of between H- 6 ft is recommended. There is no point in utilising an extra-fast sinker or lead-core shooting head to achieve depth and then have the fly swirling above 9 ft up. A long leader simply counteracts the effect of trying to fish deep. A short leader eliminates this "buoyancy" and the fly will swim deeper. Do not be distressed by the proximity of the fly to the flyline. Although presentation on the surface may leave something to be desired, no deep-lying fish will mind too much. Take my word for it, they'll hit the fly. Conversely, if you wish to fish the fly near the surface, then a longer leader should be employed. If the tigers are on the surface, or you are fishing the rapids, then the length will aid overall quality of the presentation and the slap of the fly line on the water can be minimised. ZAMBfZl TIGER
23
When fishing for largemouth bream and threespot tilapia, a medium length leader (4 - 6 ft.) seems to produce better results. There is no great reason to prefer a shorter leader, since with the possible exception of nembwe, combating the current will not be an issue. Humpback and thinface largemouths, threespot and redbreast tilapia are habitually found in barely moving backwaters and channels where minimal drift is encountered. Good catches of "bream" have improved by cutting back from the conventional 8-9 ft lengths. I believe that, as with trout, these fish have the ability to inhale and expel a fly with a very soft touch and the short leader improves bite detection. The shorter leader gives the angler more immediate "feel" in transmitting the bream's intentions to the angler. A longer leader may improve presentation but inhibit bite transmission and where the fish are taking cautiously, provides them with an opportunity to rid the fly without the angler's knowledge. Tilapia, in particular, can be challenging. The use of shorter leaders for threespot tilapia has certainly helped, for they seem to enjoy deep channels which can be probed with faster sinking lines.
Sketch of a leader set up
"LT&.~M""\vE. S E T - U P .
~
t-,.-1o- ~
Shoo¢ W"L1"~ce.
". rno....u,lQtV\lUit.. ~ Ii ,
CS t.rI1)
q~~
"~r:,. '=f' A\b~ ~\-t~~\....1..w.t ~
Flies Over the years it has constantly been demonstrated that the dependable bucktail streamer is still as effective and robust as ever. When tiger fish are in full swing, they will strike at pieces of red wool, having long since destroyed the original creation. For that reason, I do not spend much time on tying up 24
ZAMBEZI TIGER
wonders of creation, but concentrate on overall form, colour and, most importantly, a dressing that allows for free movement of fibres. Most of my patterns are sparsely dressed and the few strands of bucktail flare nicely and move alluringly. While on the vice the pattern may look somewhat skimpy, there is a radical transformation in the water. There have even been times when I have discarded tying body material such as tinsel or mylar, as it is quickly ripped to pieces, inhibiting the movement of the fly as a whole. You may find that the standard "tiger" pattern is somewhat on the large size as it incorporates enough tinsel to light up a sfl\all city centre. I am sure these patterns will attract tiger fish, but have found over the years that some subtlety does also work. That tiger fish feed on other small fish makes the simple bucktail pattern such as the red and yellow Mickey Finn ideal and commercial, albeit saltwater patterns such as Lefty's Deceiver and Crazy Charlies will perform adequately. I have a very simple pattern which produces consistently - the Kasai Tiger and I would seriously suggest taking a stock along as complementary to your favourite selection. An alternative is Plewman's Robber which is a bucktail variation. In addition I can recommend two other favourites the Yellow Rabbit and the Bulldog fly - which are excellent in more specific conditions. Another very useful pattern is the Muddler Minnow which in a big size 2 long shank can pass for the bulldog. A smaller Muddler (size 8) can be used to take catfish off the bottom.
Fly tyings • Kasai Tiger Hook: Longshank 4 or 6
Thread: Black Body: Pearly mylar tubing Wing: Three layers of buck tail (12 strands each) bottom layer: white 2nd layer: yellow 3rd layer: orange ZAMBEZI TIGER
25
• Plewman's Robber Hook:
Longshank 4 or 6
Thread:
Black
Body:
White fluorescent wool (or chenille)
Ribbing: Silver thread Wing:
Three layers of bucktail ( 12 strands each) bottom layer: white 2nd layer: red 3rd layer: black
Note: it has become customary for fly tyers to add in a pair offorbidding eyes, extra strands of glitter etc. If you have the time, in between catching tiger fish, be my guest. • Yellow Rabbit Hook:
Longshank 4 or 6
Thread:
Black
Ribbing: Copper wire Body:
Yellow chenille
Wing:
Strip of natural rabbit fur
• Bulldog fly Hook: Longshank 2 Thread:
Grey
Body:
Minnow chenille
Colour:
Waterproof pens in black, gray, brown, red
Note: The fly is tied by building up the chenille into a fat body, combing the chenille back and then colouring in with the pens. Predominantly a brown body, leaving the underside white and some black blotches along the side. The red can be used to denote gills.
26
ZAMBEZI TIGER
Chapter Five
INTO THE LAIR OF THE TIGER How have tiger fishing techniques not changed? Once we made a beeline for fast water and spent hours throwing across current lines, confident that the tiger would move in and out at intervals. There we caught our fair share of fish, but in the course of time it became clear that the tiger's lair is vastly expanded. The Upper Zambezi changes substantially through the months. During March to May, the river rises as a result of rains in Zambia and in years of exceptional precipitation will carry markedly more volume than around Christmas time. Not too long ago, high water was regarded as poor for angling, but over the years, a re-assessment shows that with some thought regarding technique and tactics a great deal more potential exists. Given the fact that conditions do change quite remarkably through the months, it is to the fly tisher's advantage to be given some guidance on "reading" the river, in order to assess for himself where the better lies exist given current conditions. Upstream of the Lodge, the Zambezi is a comfortably wide watercourse with oily swirls and gentle bends. Along the way it occasionally separates joining again downstream. In doing so it creates sub- and reverse currents as well as a multitude of little searched channels. By and large, there is no snagging bottom structure and so we focus on the meander of the river, the line of the current, islands, confluences with other watercourses and, not least of all, the bankside vegetation. No shortage of nooks and crannies that harbour fish, nor a chance in a lifetime that all of these will be explored. Where the river meanders, the current generally swings to the outside curve of the bend. This invariably dictates an area of deeper water as opposed to the shallower inside bend. By watching the bubble line or flow of papyrus debris and the colour of the water, one can gauge where the allimportant drop-off line is. Shallower water, often characterised by submerged sand banks is generally lighter of colour. When the level recedes ZAMBEZI TIGER
27
later in the year, these sand banks, the basking place of crocodiles, will be exposed. Tigers are attracted to the sand banks, since their presence indicates slower water where the striped forms can hover, close enough to the current to intercept any delicacy driven downstream and to mop up small fry which will congregate in the reverse current backwater. Fishing a bend in the river introduces a number of angling options. The most conventional is to anchor or tie the boat to the fosia grass at the head of the inside bend, cast the fly into the current and allow it to swing through the pool and around into calmer water where it is retrieved. A take may come at any time on the swing, but it is a mistake to withdraw the fly too quickly prior to re-casting. Instead, by slowing down the retrieve, thereby keeping the fly at depth, one improves the chances of a take immeasurably, although if the fly swings too far over the sand bank into very shallow water, you may be pestered by five or six small tiger fish all taking a nip at your offering. Depending on the power of the current and the depth at which you wish to fish, tie on a short leader and cast progressively upstream, so allowing the fly to sink for a longer period of time. In addition, one can strip off extra line and shake it into the water as the fly sinks past. This just creates extra depth which is indispensable at times. Some of the bends are so conceived that they invite a backwater, a reverse current or a double reverse current (going left and right). Do not neglect any of these lies especially the reverse current, for sundry nik-naks end up circulating here thereby making it a prime holding spot for a big tiger or nembwe. An alternative to tying up at the banks of fosia grass is to drift the bend in the pool and to throw the fly along the perimeter of the sand bank, then retrieve it across the drop-off line. It is quite common to feel the first few plucks from small fish chasing, but once the fly disappears into deeper water, there is every chance of a better fish becoming interested. You may even find a small fish inadvertently getting hooked and if one is too tardy in getting it to the boat, a bigger fish may home in. (Not fly fishing, I know!) The third approach is to explore the greater extent of deep water in the pool itself. Notice, especially in low water conditions, how the outside 28
ZAMBfZl TIGER
bend is eroded by the constant force of the current driving into it. Invariably a mud bank is created which may even have crumbled at various points creating holes for bigger fish to take up residence. It would be surprising to find any small fish in this habitat. Drift fishing through the pool requires greater manipulation and control of the fly line into the depths, for the speed of the underwater currents differs from that at the surface. The fly may well eventually be directly under the boat but do not be too concerned about this. The more immediate challenge is to keep contact with the fly, especially if one elected to cast upstream. If contact is not kept, you may miss some takes especially where a tiger fish has intercepted the fly drifting down to it. For a brief instant, the tiger fish will not be aware that anything is amiss until some tension tells it otherwise. Resist retrieving fast which will bring the fly up, for the current is doing enough to extract the fly's in-built movement (which is why a sparsely dressed fly can shiver with every pluck of the current) and be prepared for a vicious take that will smash your rod down beneath the surface. Tigers do take "on the hang" as well. Once into the body of the pool where the current has fanned out and is less discernible, it is worthwhile to turn one's attention to the bankside foliage. Any mud banks should be of interest as they present "lies", though it may not necessarily be tiger fish, but nembwe or even the odd humpback or thinface largemouth. In truth, I have, from time to time, found threespot til apia in some odd places and this phenomenon seems to occur in winter. The ideal bankside habitat is a break in the vegetation, such as a hole in the papyrus where in order for flyfishing to be successful, the caster must strive for accuracy. These fish lie not directly in any current, but they may be "on the tin" and ready to dash out. If so, less accurate casting may bring results, but generally speaking, the success rate will be much higher if the fly lands within an inch or two of the hole. It is exciting, but exacting fishing, for the boat will be drifting at a fair pace and the angler is only given a single chance at the fish in the pocket. Indeed, if the take eventuates, be prepared to put extreme pressure on the fish or lose both it and your fly in three short-lived seconds. ZAMBEZI TIGER
29
A confluence with another river or channel is always worth a throw. It is not a bad idea to drift past once and then corne back to anchor, searching both currents and in particular the V where the two currents corne together. Again look for a reverse current that may have formed. Often, any interest occurs within the first few casts. It is sometimes not easy to anchor or tie up without alerting the fish and this is a common cause for a highly productive area not even corning "on" at all for a while. One of the most obvious positions for fish to take station is in the V. If some disturbance has been made in securing to the prime spot, it may even be worthwhile to consider refraining from casting for some minutes to allow any fish that have scattered to return. If small tiger are still in the vicinity we regard this as a good sign. "Bankcraft", even though it is from a boat, is as important as stalking a fish from the side. Avoid gunning the boat through the very water you intend to fish. I admit there are very many examples of fish being caught in a noisy environment, but in the middle of Africa on the Zambezi, I prefer to believe that the quiet approach will pay more handsome dividends. Much of the Zambezi above Impalila consists of a slowly swirling river bending snake-like, flanked by papyrus, mateti (reeds), palm trees and grass or mud banks. However, at the Lodge itself there is a feature that makes for exciting possibilities when conditions are right. These are the Mambova rapids which consist of more than one set of frothy water. Here the river breaks into a series of smaller rapids broken up by islands. The horne rapids are easily seen (and heard) from the chalet verandahs, but there are a number more that can be explored by boat at the heads and by mokoro downstream if the water is low enough. Fishing the rapids is exciting! The slow, powerful current quickens as the river cascades over the rocks creating a series of fast runs splaying over shallow pools. Even when the river is high, one can choose any of four entry points where the river divides into a separate channel. At each "head", anchor the boat and position it in such a way as to be able to fish the fly across the tail of the pool. Conventionally, one would cast out at right angles to the boat and allow the fly to swing as one would do at any confluence. The difference is that now everything happens so much quicker and it is not unusual to strip the fly as 30
ZAMBEZI TIGER
its swings, hastening its progress across the line of fish at the tail. Where the sill is shallow, a change to an intermediate fly line, particularly in the evening, is often a good choice. It is also not necessary to employ the shorter leader, but I have seen this done with effect. Since depth is no longer important and snagging on the rocks a distinct possibility, the intermediate line provides some security against loss. When the water is very low and the rocks clearly discernible above the water line, the above approach is extremely productive in the hour around dusk when tigers become active in the faster water. In the heat of the day, I prefer to search the deeper channels within the rapids and to take a chance on a faster sinking line, even if fishing a pocket means plummeting the line into the dark water and employing a slow retrieve. Note: in the tackle section I made mention of the importance of short-leader techniques and the setup of the leader. I assume in discussing a similar approach in faster water that the sinking line is used in conjunction with a leader/tippet of no more than three feet. Decrease the length of the leader, allow the fly to swim deeper and the chances of success improve radically.
Chapter Six
ADVENTURES AT IMPALILA First Impressions The invitation to fish the Zambezi came out of the blue. One minute, the fabled waters were but a distant figment of the imagination and the next, the Zimbabwe Express flight from Johannesburg began circling the airport at Victoria Falls - the destination Impalila Island Lodge some 70 kilometers upriver and about which I had heard much. We transferred to a charter aircraft for the final leg to the island and as the six-seater climbed above the African bush, I found with vague surprise that I could see distant plumes of smoke. The small aircraft accommodatingly headed towards the smoke and then feeling quite foolish, I realised that what was observed was no less than "the smoke that thunders" or, as most know it, the Victoria Falls. Circling ZAMBEZI TIGER
31
over the greatest curtain of falling water in the world, one could not help but marvel at the cutting of the earth, formed not by some calamity of nature, as Livingstone imagined, but simply by the continuous force of the water. Beneath it, the fury of white foam thundered, hurtling into the Batoka gorge. Then the aircraft wheeled away. Although the short flight takes place from Zimbabwe, officially visitors to the Island disembark in Namibia, formerly South West Africa and before that, German West Africa, by way of the Caprivi Strip. The Caprivi in honour of Count Caprivi is a unique eastward-pointing finger in a colonial cake so constructed to allow the territory to stake a share in the Zambezi and thereby a route to the eastern seaboard of Africa. Though political commentators may haggle about the arbitrary manner of land division, important is the geographical fact that the Strip is bounded by the Zambezi in the north and the Chobe river in the south. Both rivers converge not far below Impalila Island near Kazungula, providing a destination with untold potential for all who enjoy the bush. At the head of the Island and forming a link between the two rivers is the Kasai channel and coursing the heart of the Caprivi is the Indibi (Small Kasai), giving additional access to many, many miles of angling. The visitor's introduction is immediate. After clearing customs, antICIpation immediately builds, for as we pile into the waiting boat, it is impossible not to glimpse the Chobe rapids and winding away to the right, the Kasai channel. Along the Kasai we head, between papyrus and reed-fringed banks, taking note of every bend and mud bank. Past the confluence with the Indibi, where the hippos on occasion make their home, past the basking crocodile and always in the company of herons, cormorants and darters. No less than a dozen different species of birds will make their acquaintance in that short 20 minute journey. And then, almost unexpectedly the boat swings into the wide expanse of the big river. For a moment one marvels. Is this truly the Zambezi, the river of Livingstone and Oswell, Lazlo Magyar and da Silva Porto? Who, indeed 32
ZAMBEZI TIGER
over the greatest curtain of falling water in the world, one could not help but marvel at the cutting of the earth, formed not by some calamity of nature, as Livingstone imagined, but simply by the continuous force of the water. Beneath it, the fury of white foam thundered, hurtling into the Batoka gorge. Then the aircraft wheeled away. Although the short flight takes place from Zimbabwe, officially visitors to the Island disembark in Namibia, formerly South West Africa and before that, German West Africa, by way of the Caprivi Strip. The Caprivi - in honour of Count Caprivi - is a unique eastward-pointing finger in a colonial cake so constructed to allow the territory to stake a share in the Zambezi and thereby a route to the eastern seaboard of Africa. Though political commentators may haggle about the arbitrary manner of land division, important is the geographical fact that the Strip is bounded by the Zambezi in the north and the Chobe river in the south. Both rivers converge not far below Impalila Island near Kazungula, providing a destination with untold potential for all who enjoy the bush. At the head of the Island and forming a link between the two rivers is the Kasai channel and coursing the heart of the Caprivi is the Indibi (Small Kasai), giving additional access to many, many miles of angling. The visitor's introduction is immediate. After clearing customs, antlcIpation immediately builds, for as we pile into the waiting boat, it is impossible not to glimpse the Chobe rapids and winding away to the right, the Kasai channel. Along the Kasai we head, between papyrus and reed-fringed banks, taking note of every bend and mud bank. Past the confluence with the Indibi, where the hippos on occasion make their home, past the basking crocodile and always in the company of herons, cormorants and darters. No less than a dozen different species of birds will make their acquaintance in that short 20 minute journey. And then, almost unexpectedly the boat swings into the wide expanse of the big river. For a moment one marvels. Is this truly the Zambezi, the river of Livingstone and Oswell, Lazlo Magyar and da Silva Porto? Who, indeed 32
ZAMBEZI TIGER
was the first white man to have seen the falls for there will always be counter-claims favouring da Silva Porto who was elephant hunting in the area in 1848 and who Livingstone avoided. Perhaps Henry Hartley did in '49, but if so, why did he not document it? James Chapman probably knew of it before Livingstone, but the Makololo who would have guided him, were loath to do so because of warring Matabele parties. Poor David Livingstone, though he trod the Zambezi from Angola to Mozambique, few know him for more than his sighting of the Victoria Falls and H.M. Stanley's phrase "Doctor Livingstone, I presume". Dedicated to his cause of serving God, he died in his prayers south of Lake Bangweulu having left his wife, mortally struck down by fever, buried beside the Zambezi. Ironic perhaps to consider that while he fought slavery, one son was drafted unwillingly into the maelstrom of the American Civil War and was killed in battle, not known as Robert Livingstone but as Rupert Vincent. As we hear the muted roar of the Mambova rapids in sight of the Lodge, I always think a bit sadly of the "cursing Consul of Quelimane". My first afternoon in the Caprivi was not spent with rod in hand. Almost as if to prolong the agony of expectation, I tagged along with a group intent on a game cruise up the Chobe. History once again beckoned. Were "the Chobe swamps" not the haunt of the great Frederick Courtney Selous, after whom, it is said, Allan Quartermain of "King Solomon's Mines", was fashioned? I remembered, in particular, reading of one hunting expedition into the Swamps. During the entire period, the party spotted only three elephants, Selous himself saw only one. In a mere hour before dusk we were far more fortunate.
First dawn on the Zambezi. It was mid-June. Winter on the river and not a time reckoned by most, for
one to be too serious with rod and line. After all, the tiger fish is a warm water fish and the tiger "season" is more properly regarded as being later in the year. After that, it becomes too hot for angler, never mind the fish, The coolness of the month does not concern me overmuch. The clear, warm days are pleasant, the insects minimal and the flyfishing, to my mind ZAMBUI TIGER
33
as good as at any time you care to mention. This I had learnt through practical experience many years previously. While spin fishers might battle in the winter, the fly fisher seems to do very well. The trip had started off in remarkable fashion. Simon and I had wandered up the Indibi in search of til apia and had set aside the last hour of the day for tiger. Consequently we drifted quietly down the small Kasai, no more than a few hundred yards above the confluence with the Kasai itself. The water was dark and lazy blue smoke filtered through the trees from the village preparing the evening meal. Unexpectedly, the line was torn from my hand with incredible power and then the tiger let go. Simon looked on in astonishment at the sudden blaze of action. It was well his reactions were sharpened for his rod too smashed down and the fish careered away. There were no acrobatics and slowly we inclined to the idea that a large powerful catfish was in tow. The water swirled and the head of what plainly was no catfish surfaced. Instead it was the biggest tiger fish yet taken on fly at the lodge. At 131b 150z (6.35 kg)this record was to last, despite some close squeaks, for another 15 months. The last day of this particular trip produced the second set of remarkable fireworks. By that time I had ventured up the Zambezi enjoying the antics of some wonderful tiger along thirty kilometers of water. Yet, the flight home was due only in the afternoon so there was time - always time for another sortie before brunch. To make hay, we settled on the KasaL The water was high, the current quick and the backwaters full. As the morning warmed up, small tigers of 6 - 8 inches clustered around in fine mood niggling the fly. John, an Australian, using a sink-tip line, battled a well-conditioned tiger of 41b and then, down at the Indibi confluence, to my great chagrin, landed a lovely green-tinged nembwe of similar size. I continued to entertain livewire tiddlers, fully two dozen without attracting anything that could span two hands. Lunch and the final cast beckoned. I flung the fly - a Kasai Tiger into the backwater hoping for a nembwe and hit into a rock. 34
ZAMBEZI TIGER
There was no contest once the rock realised it was hooked. Fifty meters of backing peeled off while John struggled to untie the boat from its moorings. Then the dreaded moment - the tiger had dominion over every inch of backing. Only the micron knot remained quivering. Downstream, a fish splashed. I had no great pretensions about succeeding with this demon. Any tiger fish angler will prophesy that a moment's slack will lose you the fish. And was there slack? Eighty meters of line, tracking through backwater weed to heaven-knew-where of slack. You know the rest. We followed the backing painstakingly, recovering the line meter by meter until gray fly line came into sight and pointed into the main current. I lifted and felt, disbelievingly, a throbbing heaviness on the end. Another fifteen minutes and a massive body surfaced eventually to slide into the net. At 13 lb 10 oz it had no right to still be attached. In open battle it should have dislodged the fly within seconds or taken refuge in the fact that no steel trace was in evidence. Do I need to spell it out? A double-figure in pounds of course tiger fish is the dream of many Southern African anglers. It was an encounter of the first kind. I could have wished for no better handshake.
Summertime bulldogs Bulldogs and churchills are mormyrids and as their name suggests, are strange looking fish. Not only are they peculiarly descriptive of their namesakes, but they emit electrical impulses which allow for communication with their brethren and for locating predatory species, hopefully with some time to spare. They have also been known to indulge in minor migrations which may explain why in the first half of Summer, there are times when the tiger's appetite is aroused. One low water December, I was hosting some "'Tiger Quests", during which time groups under my tutelage spend much time on the water, thereafter debriefing as to the day's findings. Most of the anglers were inexperienced, some only shortly before learning to cast. Nevertheless, results had been acceptable with one angler landing a 13 Ib tiger from a side-channel. ZAMBEZI 1'IGfR
35
This capture and others were accomplished with the aid of the normal streamer patterns, although if any preference was shown it was for a red and white combination. On the following days, the fishing slowed almost to a standstilL Fewer takes occurred and those that did, invariably were no more than half-hearted. Yet, those other guests who were content to drift with bait down the second channel above Mambova, had few complaints. If nothing else, it revealed that good numbers of tigers were present and, more importantly, were feeding. The preferred bait, according to the guides, was a bulldog, which is bulky and certainly no shrinking violet. While success often hangs on more subtlety being invoked, it seemed that quite the opposite was now being requested. Another option was to concentrate on different habitat and fish the faster water of Mambova from mokoros. There, the tigers are less picky and quite happy to snatch streamers. But we too turned our attention to the preferential treatment towards bulldogs and experimented with chenille to build up a pattern that, with some imagination, could pass for the mormyrid. It is always gratifying to see innovation being rewarded and the bulkier
pattern was accepted especially in the Kasai and side-streams fringed by papyrus. The tigers tended to hit the fly first and then return moments later to pick up the "stunned" artificiaL Exciting fishing this is, for very often one is unprepared for the second attack and break ups are common. The conclusion was that during early Summer one may find that the tiger fish in slower water responds well to an offered bulldog diet and that given a papyrus habitat, one can count on some exhilarating fishing.
Gulls at Jo-Jos Never pass up a full day out on the Zambezi. To take a picnic basket and head out westwards is an excursion to which I always look forward. One can anticipate traveling 35 40 km upriver, fishing as one pleases and poking into territory that is lightly explored with fly and lure. There are many favoured spots, but on this day in July, with the cormorants and darters already having gathered in the Indibi and Kasai, our goal was to travel as far up as we could while it was cool and then fish the spots as activity began to increase. 36
ZAMBEZI TIGER
During June and July, the high, silty water of a few months earlier, begins to clear as the floodplains previously intruded upon progressively drain. The multitudes of bream, catfish and others which streamed into these vast acres, some to spawn, now heed the warning of the receding river and hasten back, taking with them hordes of progeny. In a good year, literally millions of small fry of all sorts will be flushed out. Many will not survive the trap that Nature springs on them. The birds are the first to betray them. So it was. At Jo-Jos a good 40 minutes from the Lodge, we saw the greyheaded gulls wheeling and diving in mid-river. Below them, the odd splash from the surface gave the game away. Tiger fish pack hunting schools of fry. It was not a place which, at first glance, one would have taken much notice of. The river was wide and strong, straight without any overt distinguishing features, but as we boated carefully past the activity, through polaroids I could distinguish that the river bed comprised sheets of slate which, not only had the effect of creating pockets of deep water, but also guided the current across the middle of the river to the other bank. It was along this line that the small fry had been deceived into thinking relative safety was at hand. The upstream wind was gusting causing our drifts to be erratic, but we poised for action as soon as the shallows were crossed and darker, inviting water swirled beneath. Intermittently, fry shoals were driven to the sutface, to be followed by rolls and boils. The morning session belonged to Raoul and his light spinning rod. Provided the red Mepps was hastily retrieved inches below the surface, the tigers showed interest. The fly was less acceptable, so it seemed, and even a change from the fast sinker to the shallower intermediate line brought little joy_ At one stage I lifted the Muddler Minnow prior to recasting and we were all astounded to see a large tiger suddenly materialize behind the t1y, only to turn away at the last second. The pack consisted of some very sizable tiger and Raoul, after losing a few, came to grips with one that weighed seven going on ten pounds. This lack of consensus about the weight prompted an accusation of favoritism from Raoul, since any fish he hooked were greeted with little enthusiasm by our guide Victor, while anything I latched on to, no matter how insignifZAMBEZI TIGER
37
During June and July, the high, silty water of a few months earlier, begins to clear as the floodplains previously intruded upon progressively drain. The multitudes of bream, catfish and others which streamed into these vast acres, some to spawn, now heed the warning of the receding river and hasten back, taking with them hordes of progeny. In a good year, literally millions of small fry of all sorts will be flushed out. Many will not survive the trap that Nature springs on them. The birds are the first to betray them. So it was. At Jo-Jos a good 40 minutes from the Lodge, we saw the greyheaded gulls wheeling and diving in mid-river. Below them, the odd splash from the surface gave the game away. Tiger fish pack hunting schools of fry, It was not a place which, at first glance, one would have taken much notice
of. The river was wide and strong, straight without any overt distinguishing features, but as we boated carefully past the activity, through polaroids I could distinguish that the river bed comprised sheets of slate which, not only had the effect of creating pockets of deep water, but also guided the current across the middle of the river to the other bank. It was along this line that the small fry had been deceived into thinking relative safety was at hand. The upstream wind was gusting causing our drifts to be erratic, but we poised for action as soon as the shallows were crossed and darker, inviting water swirled beneath. Intermittently, fry shoals were driven to the surface, to be followed by rolls and boils. The morning scssion belonged to Raoul and his light spinning rod. Provided the red Mepps was hastily retrieved inches below the surface, the tigers showed interest. The fly was less acceptable, so it seemed, and even a change from the fast sinker to the shallower intermediate line brought littie joy. At one stage I lifted the Muddler Minnow prior to recasting and we were all astounded to see a large tiger suddenly materialize behind the fly, only to turn away at the last second. The pack consisted of some very sizable tiger and Raoul, after losing a few, came to grips with one that weighed seven going on ten pounds. This lack of consensus about the weight prompted an accusation of favoritism from Raoul, since any fish he hooked were greeted with little enthusiasm by our guide Victor, while anything I latched on to, no matter how insignifZAMBEZI TIGER
37
icant, saw galvanized action and net and scale being brought immediately to bear. Needless to say, Raoul's big fish somehow was never actually weighed before being returned. We covered the position for half-a-dozen drifts before surface activity quietened down and, with only one good fish to show for some frenetic angling, we decided to rest the spot and headed upstream to look for nembwe. Deciding upon lunch we tied up to a mud bank so as to be out of the current. Tn this position, in between sandwiches, we could swing a fly or spinner out into the current and then under the bank itself. Raoul's first cast was snatched by a fish which, though it came loose at the boat, was unanimously agreed by all to be in the same weight category as the earlier fish whatever that was. Out went my fly now changed to a Plewman's Robber - and as it swung into the reverse current, was hit by an express train which dropped it in traditional fashion. The next cast produced another strong pull, but to my consternation, the flyline knotted and was in danger of creating a break up. I held tight, exerting side pressure for all I was worth and the tiger obligingly held position in the current while the knot was feverishly unraveled. Given a renewed lease, the battle continued and for the next half-hour a very heavy tiger was my main preoccupation. Upon netting it, we found it to weigh 13 lb 14 oz, a mere ounce under Simon's record fish. Simon too, T thought, would be glad. Time moved on, so we returned to the scene of bird activity and found them still diving and swooping, but this time the roles were reversed. The fly, still a Plewman's Robber although somewhat disheveled - was preferred to the spinner and another monstrous tiger took hold, jumping immediately, which created additional excitement in the boat. If anything, it looked even more weighty than the earlier fish. This time the tiger was played on the drift, but an additional complication occurred when, nearing the island and in a stronger current, a massive crocodile slithered off the bank. For a moment, visions flashed of having trouble with leviathan. I increased pressure, determined that if the croco38
ZAMBEZI TIGER
dile became too interested, as I once saw happen, in the Okavango, I would break the fish off. The crocodile disappeared and Hydrocynus eventually came to net. Though it looked the biggest of the day, the scales hesitated at 11 lb. It seemed Raoul would have his revenge, for even to this day, I have no doubt that the scales must have jammed. The only rationale for the disappointing weight was that it might have been a male fish, lengthy but conceding weight. The gulls at Jo-Jos remained for some days thereafter, but despite our efforts, we could not emulate the results of the earlier outing. The last day of my stay was spoilt by a strong, cold wind which convinced us to seek shelter in the Kasai, where additional adventures lay in store.
The Magic of the Kasai Admittedly it is only a relatively short stretch of river, is the Kasai channel and its proximity to the Lodge tempts many to overlook it. But, as inviting as distant horizons are, I have fond and productive memories of these few winding miles, especially when the cold upriver wind blows the Zambezi into disarray. The Kasai's current betrays much of its character. For much of the year, the Zambezi swings into it so that on drifting along, it is towards the distant hills of Kasane that you float. Approximately half-way along, one meets up with the Indibi (Small Kasai). Here the water from the heart of the Caprivi, with a darker look about it at times, mingles with the sandy Zambezi flow and the current increases pace markedly until the Chobe is reached. When the flow of the floodwaters gains momentum, it is so adamant that the current of the Kasai can be reversed. I was on the Kasai the day the phenomenon occurred last year (1997). The previous morning, we had found the tigers lying at the Indibi confluence on the inside bend along a sandbank; the next day the current had swept back towards the Zambezi and we found we were straying back "upstream" the tigers too, not surprisingly perhaps had relinquished their hole. The Kasai is not wide and a drift wobbles the boat from side to side, so that the flyfisher constantly moves around the boat to cover the bank within range, casting into pockets that come momentarily into view and sinking the fly into the bubble line. It is absorbing, though frustrating fishing, for ZAMBfZI TIGfR
39
dile became too interested, as I once saw happen, in the Okavango, I would break the fish off. The crocodile disappeared and Hydrocynus eventually came to net. Though it looked the biggest of the day, the scales hesitated at 11 lb. It seemed Raoul would have his revenge, for even to this day, I have no doubt that the scales must have jammed. The only rationale for the disappointing weight was that it might have been a male fish, lengthy but conceding weight. The gulls at Jo-Jos remained for some days thereafter, but despite our efforts, we could not emulate the results of the earlier outing. The last day of my stay was spoilt by a strong, cold wind which convinced us to seek shelter in the Kasai, where additional adventures lay in store.
The Magic of the Kasai Admittedly it is only a relatively short stretch of river, is the Kasai channel and its proximity to the Lodge tempts many to overlook it. But, as inviting as distant horizons are, I have fond and productive memories of these few winding miles, especially when the cold upriver wind blows the Zambezi into disarray. The Kasai's current betrays much of its character. For much of the year, the Zambezi swings into it so that on drifting along, it is towards the distant hiHs of Kasane that you float. Approximately half-way along, one meets up with the Indibi (Small Kasai). Here the water from the heart of the Caprivi, with a darker look about it at times, mingles with the sandy Zambezi flow and the current increases pace markedly until the Chobe is reached. When the flow of the floodwaters gains momentum, it is so adamant that the current of the Kasai can be reversed. I was on the Kasai the day the phenomenon occurred last year (1997). The previous morning, we had found the tigers lying at the Indibi confluence on the inside bend along a sandbank; the next day the current had swept back towards the Zambezi and we found we were straying back "upstream" the tigers too, not surprisingly perhaps had relinquished their hole. The Kasai is not wide and a drift wobbles the boat from side to side, so that the flyfisher constantly moves around the boat to cover the bank within range, casting into pockets that come momentarily into view and sinking the fly into the bubble line. It is absorbing, though frustrating fishing, for ZAMBfZl TIGER
39
wayward flies are snatched by the papyrus and held there until a rescue is mounted. The Kasai's size should on no account be disdained. It has yielded half-adozen double figure tigers that I have witnessed, although, to be fair, Simon's big lady should probably be for the account of the Indibi. In times of high water, the fly caster can struggle to sink the fly to any respectable depth before whisking past the lie. This can cause frustration, since the spin anglers with their plummeting Fatraps and Mepps normally n:anage to winkle some excellent nembwe from the undergrowth. One afternoon, a pair of anglers came in with two brace of nembwe between 3 5 lb. Almost by accident they had stumbled on to activity under a tree. To those who believe fish cannot be selective, they related the story of how one angler hooked two of the big olive bream while his partner, throwing another lure into the same vicinity, remained tishless. They then switched rods and the scores were evened. Depending on the weather, I often search out warmer waters, especially if the easterly - a Zambezi upstream wind - is blowing. When blustery, it is an uncomfortable wind, pushing the boat too quickly away from the Zanlbian bank and out of the strike range. To a great extent, the Kasai is sheltered from this. One cold day, when the bluster of the east wind had ruined a perfectly good opportunity to go up to Jo-Jos, Victor, a guest and I headed for the Kasai and, upon drifting around a bend saw, to our delight, splashing tish. Indeed we were upon them almost too quickly, but my youthful American boat partner, who had thus far to experience the savagery of the tiger, was brought rudely to earth as his fly was whipped from under his nose. Short and sweet was the fight, for the leader, after thirty seconds, came back traceless, leaving a young man bewildered and not a little breathless. In all the excitement, the boat had been maneuvered into the bank and there we remained, in position to cast our flies into mid-stream. There was little doubt a feeding spree was on the go downstairs, but not only caused by tiger fish, for many of the swirls were those of huge catfish, that surfaced momentarily and then dived back into the depths. I let the fly swing in under the bank and began a slow deep retrieve. At the boat there was a strong tug and I played the fish cautiously. A good solid run started the proceedings and then the fish headed for undergrowth. We played the favourite game of "guess the fish" and surmised it was a tiger, but when it 40
ZAMBEZI TIGER
refused to jump, revised the summation to catfish. I was not quite sure and still laid my bets on a nembwe, but to our surprise the portly figure of a respectable threes pot tilapia eventually surfaced, once again confirming that it is one of the strongest fish around, despite not attaining huge sizes. The next cast resulted in a similar rush but this lime it was quickly evident that it was a handsome tiger not far under five pounds. The following day perseverance was called for in the same area and again from the same spot right under the bank, pulled out another brace of tiger and finally with great excitement - my first Kasai nembwe of 2 lb. For contemplative angling a slow drift down the Kasai is the best medicine, for it is unhurried and can produce fish at any time. Many tigers escape for the simple reason that, unless the boat can be secured or slowed once the tussle has begun, a big fish has every opportunity to crash into the papyrus, slip under the fosia grassbeds or wrap itself around any of a multitude of obstructions. More often than not, along the way, we tie up to some favorite spots, such as at the Indibi junction when the hippos are not in attendance and spend time criss-crossing the two currents. Seldom do we not at least get some thunderous pulls and there is always the chance of a really big fish. It is also, on such a pleasant balmy afternoon, a wonderfully relaxing interlude before heading into the Chobe to make the acquaintance of the elephants and buffalo in the dusky evening.
A Trace of Tiger As we sat watching the swirls of tigers chasing juvenile bream and minnows in the channel near the Zambezi's Kalikaligajunction, I could not but feel sorry for the small fish. After all, when you've seen a Kariba tiger fish, itself more than a pound in weight, cleanly severed by one of its larger brethren, such small fry seemingly have little chance. It is fortunate, perhaps, that we remain at the safe end of the fly rod, but even there, one is left under no illusion that Hydrocynus may rate as one of the hardest strikers of a fly in freshwater. So ruthless is the assault that sheer impact easily stuns the prey disabling it if not killing it. It is not uncommon, towards dark or in newly flooded areas, to see a spray of small fish skitter across the surface. A fly through the area has an excelZAMBEZI TIGER
41
lent chance of eliciting a take, but less than you might imagine are actually hooked first time round. Could it be that the fly is "impacted", before the real attempt at ingesting? Why not, trout have learnt to splash at a hastily emerging sedge to bring it down into the surface film. Thereafter they take it more confidently. It is little wonder the tiger fish has a world-famous reputation for escape tactics. If one believes all the tales, a mere 1% of takes results in fish in the net. They used to say that, for every ten hits, one was hooked. And for every ten hooked, one was landed. Perhaps an exaggeration, but it illustrates correctly that the tiger is no mean escape artist. The above example is worth relating. Often a retrieve receives a fierce bang. The angler reacts by lifting his rod - a half-strike before realising that the fish no longer is attached. He lowers the rod to continue the retrieve and ..... is broken by the assailant which took the fly properly second time around. It is being caught unaware by the double strike that often results in the leader being snapped or shredded. How many double takes are experienced is obviously open to conjecture, but on one "Tiger Quest" I asked the group to monitor all takes and the ensuing result. Over two days 39 takes were recorded and 8 fish landed, with the biggest being well over 10 lb. Since most of the anglers had not previously had any dealings with tigers, I regard this ratio as conservative. A double-take is only one instance of a tiger's repertoire. He has a number of other quirks to make one look extremely foolish. And he can do it enough times in a day to make one doubt everything from hook sharpness to angler incompetence. The phenomenon does, however, lend itself to many fireside discussions. Being "broken up" should really be distinguished from being "bitten off'. Apart from small tiger fish of a pound or so, whose teeth are like needles and close together, I believe true "biting off' is less probable than at first imagined. The teeth of a tiger fish are not totally interlocking and even a mediumsized spccimen of 3 4 lb has some gaps in its dental arrangement. As for bigger fish, despite well-developed fangs, these are surprisingly wellspaced. There is ample space for a hook to take root. 42
ZAMBEZI TIGER
Over more than a decade, because of my preference for a stiff matt nylon leader and, many tiger fish up to 15 lb landed, I have taken note of any incidences of the leader being shredded. As a result I believe true biting off is more the exception than the rule - the results confirm this. I assure you, if it were the other way around, I would be flinging wire traces along with the rest. In a relatively clean fight, though it took over 20 minutes, an 11 Ib tiger on the Kasai showed no shredding whatsoever, yet I can also recall a longer brawl by ten minutes with a fish of 14 16 lb that came adrift at the very end when the frayed line parted. I do recall that for a good quarter hour, this superb fish swam below the boat and there were a number of times ] felt the huge tail catch the leader. After the loss, I showed Victor the abrasion along the leader. It sti1l didn't make him very happy. He only perked up the next day, when we continued and had some of the most successful angling we have ever experienced with outsize fish. The shredding up the leader, implies friction from teeth, gills or body can take their toll rather than "biting off'. Only with deep hooking (very slow reflexes) or flash do I believe there is some foundation. The incidence of deep hooking is not that common, though it can happen and, if so, the popular wire/steel trace set-up does not assist one. Such trace is, in any event usually short - around two to three inches. Longer than that and casting becomes unpleasant. But traces may introduce another important element into the equation - that of flash - which many of the older tiger anglers were extremely aware of as a major cause of loss and which they tried to minimise. Not, you will realise, is the danger from a tiger hooked, but from a tiger going for the flash itself or another tiger following a hooked fish. Tigers are attracted by bright and shiny things, which is why so many lures and fly patterns have silver, gold or pearly bodies. And tigers, often traveling in groups, become agitated when one of their pack is hooked. Apart from a tiger striking at any flash, rather than the lure, it is well documented that other tiger fish can be excited by the flash of a small swivel or steel trace (or shiny monofilament) and strike at that, breaking the hooked fish off. Do not scoff at a tiger's ability to focus on flash from wire or even some makes of monofilament. If it is accepted that they can pick up the silver ZAMBEZI TIGER
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glint from a small bare hook, tiny barrel swivel and home in on pin-head fry, why suppose it cannot react to the hither-and-thither darting of a trace attached to a struggling fish? My losses with matt monofilament are very acceptable. If I lose a fly a day on average, it is a lot. Loss on the strike is unusual and I blame myself. Yet, though I would never dissuade another from using a trace and in fact encourage it, for "confidence" if nothing else, have seen many anglers all using traces on fly being broken up within seconds of hooking a fish. Many of my compatriots still shudder at my supposed foolhardiness, but the proof of a number of double figure tiger in the net, along with countless others, is undoubtedly in the pudding. Let me mention the observations of one extremely experienced flyfisher who is no stranger to tiger and saltwater angling and who remarked upon the loss of tiger after tiger on one trip. At first they used 30 lb nylon coated wire, then 50 lb super t1ex nylon coated wire. Still no success, so they converted to solid wire of 27 lb. Perhaps the solution does not lie in lengthening or strengthening the trace. Fighting tiger fish may seem a minefield, for apart from all the trials and tribulations mentioned above, that first frenetic rush is often immediately followed by an aerial display which always seems to catch one unawares. I say "unawares" rather than "unexpected, for when the tiger launches itself, the angler is still trying to ensure loose line does not catch on some obstruction. At the precise moment of distraction, the tiger takes to the air. If there is slack, the tiger will soon be free. After the initial plunging and leapings, some tussles may be short and sweet. What cannot be denied is that the angler experiences a flood of adrenaline generated by the sheer shock of the strike and power of a hooked fish. Given the amount of energy expended in those first twenty seconds, the tiger may be forgiven for having drained his fuel tank prematurely. Even given that, the thrill of a tiger rush is just as exciting.
The sill of the rapids One of the main attractions of Impalila Island Lodge is that the Mambova rapids begin their life right in front of one's eyes. When the water is low, it 44
ZAMBEZI TIGER
is possible to saunter past the chalets and down to the rocks. While such water may be disdained for its proximity to civilization, it is less fished almost for that very reason. In the evening, when all is calm, Tim and Simon may be found throwing their flies before the night's meal. Within shouting distance, therefore, lie tigers, nembwe and on occasion one might catch a fleeting glimpse of the elusive labeo or a Zambezi yellowfish, which may yet make for another tale. From the boat and no more than a few hundred yards from those enjoying a sundowner under the baobab, I relish fishing the sill at the head of the "home rapids". Not uncommonly, as the sun dips down over the Lodge, it is also my last stop after a day out, when the moment calls for a cold beer and a final half-hour. It is certainly not a last wistful throw into a river which, more than likely,
offered up its fair share of surprises during the day, but an exc~l1ent venue in its own right. Nor be deceived into thinking that no bi~ fish Je in wait. I have taken them up to seven pounds. ( \
If the river is low enough, the rapids may invite those more adventurous into the living room. Of an afternoon, poled along by Patrick, Crispin or Victor, it is an experience to sit with fly rod in hand and to feel the push of the mokoro. As you glide away into the middle channel, surveyed by the strutting jacana and the hung-out-to-dry reed cormorants, you wonder why all good things should come to an end. The river sings and the saddlebilled storks drift across the sky. The carmine bee-eaters swerve their way to favourite reed stems and the tiny malachite kingfisher flashes low across the run. The hippo, all in a cluster, swivel with ears pricked, as the mokoro silently hugs the papyus. Then at the tail, the mokoro turns into the lee of the rocks and with a swift spurt nestles comfortably in the arms of an outcrop. From here, into the run, one can cast a fly, swinging it across the rush of white water and past the eye of the tiger. An evening means a brace of hours sliding from one rock to another and possibly equally a leash of tiger. But, gracing along, no more than a few inches above the waterline, you come to appreciate Africa a little more intimately. ZAMBEZI TIGER
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A Tale of Bream In my formative fly fishing days, any mention of bream invariably conjured up visions of hot, wind-still days floating through placid backwaters. This was in the time before that of the flyfisher, for the bream and tilapia were conventionally angled for with float and worm tackle. One generally did not depart empty-handed, for their numbers were plentiful. Such is the focus of attention on the tiger fish, that most visiting anglers begrudge the time and, perhaps if one has come a long way and time is short, no one can quibble. But I admit that, I relish setting aside a couple of outings into backwater country to look for these fish that, while memories serves to imply are easy prey, certainly are wily when it comes to the fly. So it was, that the tiger fishing had been good and a friend wished to see the heart of the Caprivi, so we boated some miles up the more placid Indibi intending to visit some lesser known backwaters. It was a slightly cooler morning with a light covering of wispy cloud and I confess I thought we would be lucky to see any movement. Yet, the instant fly or spinner touched the water, there was interest shown. The fish were not far below the surface and the fly if thrown near the reedy fringe would be yanked back by, surprisingly, Pink happies (Sargochromis giardi), not a usual capture. They were pan-sized and plentiful and provided an interesting morning's sport. In between there would be a more aggressive pull and the splash of an annoyed African pike. In such a backwater, the flyfisher in search of species may well get a surprise, for the butter barbel (nee silver catfish) and even some striped robbers may equally hang on to the fly.
Of all the bream, it is the nembwe generally that may intrude upon the tiger fish angler's thoughts, for along the very banks that tigers may swim, deeper down lurk the stunning olive bream. It is more than likely in winter that the nembwe come to light. Yet they can materialize and disappear with alacrity. For the most part of my visits, nembwe are a rarity, but one September, they made an appearance and what an entry they made! It was the lure anglers that hit the jackpot, though the usual means is to troll a fatrap along the mudbanks. One day there was nothing and the next 46
ZAMBEZI TIGER
the boat would come back with four or five specimens. Not small fish mind, but strong green nembwe between 3 6 lb. I needed no gilt-edged iiiV\tation, but we knew it would not be easy, for my
means is to "park" along ttie bank, or drift and try to work the fly close the bottom. No easy tas~/ t
"-
Oh we battled! The wind gave no favours and the nembwe may just as well have not been present. We pulled in at Nantungu and worked our way much to the astonishment of the villagers who all came to survey this phenomenon. It was clear that fly fishing had not been a subject of debate before. Victor patiently explained to every newcomer that, yes, the angler did catch fish with "that line." It was therefore fortuitous that, at the height of the discussion, I should feel
a hard response to my retrieve and realised almost immediately, from the repeated angry pulls, that this was no tiger. No ordinary nembwe was it either and in front of the assembly proceeded to play and land a magnificent olive bream of 71Ib. It was the only nembwe the fly saw over the next few days of desperate trying, though I did land a very nice Pink happy of 2i lb and a number of tigers to 3 lb which, by the way, are excellent sport, if I haven't mentioned it before. The lure anglers cleaned up and released some wonderful fish to 61 lb. It didn't matter. One fish was sufficient to mark Victor down in the minds
of at least one Zambian village as a guide of status.
ZAMBEZI TIGER
47
APPENDIX How to get to Impalila Island Lodge From Johannesburg International Airport, Zimbabwe Express Airlines provides a daily return flight to Victoria Falls. Once at Victoria Falls, the option exists through the Lodge to charter a light aircraft into the airstrip on Impalila Island where customs is cleared. Alternatively, road transport can be arranged, which involves a journey of approximately 1~ hours, some of which will be through the Zambezi National Park. It is quite common to see one's first elephants during the trip. It is also an experience to clear Zimbabwe, Botswana (in and out) and Namibian customs in less than an hour. Guests are reminded that a departure tax payable in US$ is required when departing by air from Victoria Falls. At present only US$20 bills are accepted.
Wbattotake Besides fly tackle and photographic equipment, it is possible to visit lmpalila with the minimum of clothing. The Lodge does laundry free of charge on a daily basis. No more than a change of clothing is required. Despite the temperatures, it is wise to take long trousers and long-sleeved shirts as well to cover up during the heat of the day, if on the river. A jersey and jacket (waterproof) is advisable as the weather can cool and the boat trip can be quite chilly. A hat and polaroid spectacles is essential as is sun block and insect repellent. The advice of your medical practitioner should be followed in respect of prevention of malaria.
Contacting Impalila Island Lodge The Lodge consists of eight stilted en-suite chalets positioned on the water's edge and a main complex built around a centuries-old baobab tree. Impalila Island Lodge has become renowned for special attention to detail and an excellent cuisine in comfortable and peaceful surroundings. In addition to angling, one can mokoro the quiet backwaters, discover the islands on foot, immerse oneself in the birdlife or enjoy the game on a sunset cruise along the Chobe. For more information: Telephone: (27) (11) 7067207 Fax: (27)(11 )463 8251 Postal address: POBox 70378 Bryanston 2021 South Africa E-mail:
[email protected] Home page: www.impalila.co.za 48
ZAM6EZI TIGER
