A Career in Modeling: You Don't Have to Be a Glamorous Supermodel - Opportunities Today for People of All Types and Looks

A CAREER IN

MODELING

Institute Research Number 150 ISBN 1-58511-150-3 DOT Codes 297.667-014, 961.367-010, 961.667-010 O*NET-SOC Code 41-9012.00

A CAREER IN

MODELING YOU DON’T HAVE TO BE A GLAMOROUS SUPERMODEL OPPORTUNITIES TODAY FOR PEOPLE OF ALL TYPES AND LOOKS MODELING HAS EXISTED PRETTY MUCH EVER SINCE THERE’S BEEN ART, WHICH MEANS

from the very earliest days of human civilization.

In ancient Greece, given the absence of actual deities willing to serve as models, ordinary local women and comely courtesans alike posed for sculptors and painters, most of whom were male. The artists then produced idealized images of mythological characters, gods and goddesses. (Interestingly, female artists of ancient times are thought to 2

have portrayed women in a more human, more realistic light, though little of this artwork survives.) Modeling in former times was not considered a respectable career. Traditionally, the artist’s model was a nobody. She may have come from a lower-class background with little education and nothing to offer but her youth and beauty. She was often the lover of the artist, who discarded her when she ceased to inspire him. Her career was short-lived, and she had no champion to make sure she was paid well while she worked and had plans for her post-modeling future. What a difference a few centuries make! Today, as anyone with access to television or magazines knows, supermodels are among the ultimate celebrities and role models. The desire to become one of these objects of desire is at a fever pitch, and competition to sustain success, once achieved, is intense. To be sure, the rewards are many and do include fame, fortune and fun. But modeling is an exceedingly risky business, and a great many careers fizzle after just a few years. This report will help you determine if you have what it takes to become a model – and it’s not necessarily the physical perfection you may have imagined. Rebecca Gayheart and Kate Moss were both told that they were too short to be models, but they prevailed by emphasizing their unique assets and exhibiting enthusiasm and professionalism at all times. Furthermore, not all models slink down runways wearing jaded expressions and outrageous costumes. As a recent advertising campaign for The Body Shop put it, “There are 3 billion women who don’t look like supermodels, and only eight who do.” This suggests there is opportunity for a variety of people and types. Today, there’s room for plus-size, petites, men of all ages, people of color and various ethnic appearances, and “real” looking people in the business. If you’re 5’4" there’s no way you’re going to be an haute couture runway model, but you could have a future in other types of modeling. Since many models’ careers are over by the time they’re in their mid-twenties, it’s never too early to start. So . . . let’s get started!

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PREPARING FOR THIS CAREER FIRST, YOU SHOULD ASSESS YOUR LOOKS.

Take a good, honest look at yourself in a full-length mirror. What are your best features? Is your “look” wholesome, athletic, All-American; hip, funky, downtown; exotic; free-spirited; conservative and tailored? When people compliment you on the way you look, what color clothing are you wearing? According to the “Color Me Beautiful” principle, people of African descent look most radiant in primary colors like red and yellow, pure white and black, jewel tones like emerald green and purple and royal blue. Pastels like aqua and peach, on the other hand, are most flattering on blond, blue-eyed people. Ask yourself what you want from a modeling career. Are you hoping to gain self-confidence and poise? Do you just want to earn enough money for college? Do you intend to segue into acting? The other thing you’ll want to do to prepare is read fashion magazines so you can stay up-to-date on current trends in fashion and photography. There’s no scarcity of books, videos and highly paid consultants promising to help you maximize your personal assets and minimize your flaws. You don’t need to spend a lot of money on your career at this point (or, indeed, ever). By borrowing liberally from your local library and spending wisely on clothing, toiletries and cosmetics, you can get ready to call on modeling agencies without investing a fortune.

HISTORY OF THIS CAREER THE MODERN MODELING CAREER IS LARGELY A PRODUCT OF MODERN ADVERTISING,

which came about with the development of mass media in the early 1900s. At that time, glossy, colorful magazines and daily newspapers began to be widely circulated, creating a means for print advertising.

John Robert Powers came to New York City in the 1920s to pursue an acting career. When a colleague said he was looking for a group of good-looking people to appear in magazine ads, Powers assembled some of his fellow actors and coached them in posing for stills. In 1923, Powers opened the first modeling agency, which has since expanded into a nationwide agency/training school franchise. By 1935, 4

there were about 200 working models in the New York area, earning around $5 per hour, and a handful of agents managing their careers. Barbizon, the world’s largest modeling school and agency, was established in 1939. It now boasts 90+ locations around the globe. Television, introduced in the United States after World War II, represented the next big opportunity for models. Virtually from its inception, TV was recognized as an important new advertising medium. National advertisers using TV as early as 1945 were Bulova watches, Pan American airlines, Firestone, Gillette, Lever Bros and Macy’s. At the time, entire programs were sponsored by individual advertisers, including Kraft Television Theatre, The Texaco Star Theater, Ford Star Jubilee and General Electric Theater. The immense popularity of television created demand for poised and attractive people who could demonstrate products, escort game-show contestants on and off the stage and perform other tasks. Betty Furness, a model with the Powers Agency from age 14, was one of the first stars created for commercial television. She pitched appliances for Westinghouse from 1949 to 1960 and became associated with the slogan “You can be sure if it’s Westinghouse.” Londoner Lesley Hornby (known to the world as Twiggy) was probably the first teenage supermodel. She became an international sensation practically overnight. Doe-eyed, waiflike, weighing 90 pounds at five foot-six, Twiggy sported a boyish haircut, three rows of false eyelashes and brightly colored miniskirts and tights. She seemed to epitomize the values of the mid- to late-1960s: youth; a bold and carefree lifestyle; a rethinking of traditional gender roles; a new definition of sophistication. At the peak of the Twiggy phenomenon, her name and likeness were plastered on hosiery, makeup, purses, lunch boxes and other products. Since then, the “waif” look has gone in and out of fashion, as has the “voluptuous” look. Today, plus-size and male models are genuine contenders. Meanwhile, the inclination to treat supermodels as celebrities of the highest order has only escalated, and competition to reach these ranks is ever more crazed.

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WHERE YOU WILL WORK WHERE YOU WORK DEPENDS LARGELY ON THE TYPE OF MODELING YOU ARE DOING, AS

well as what you want and expect from this work. You can stay close to home your entire career if you live in or near a major metropolitan area. Or you can travel everywhere and anywhere in order to advance your career or squeeze the most possible work out of your prime modeling years. Jobs as demonstrators and product promoters are most plentiful at department stores and annual trade events like boat shows, auto shows and home shows. Jobs can also be had in retail and grocery stores as well as outdoor fairs. Sometimes, the demonstration is performed on videotape (a portable marketing tool) or on an infomercial. An upscale, stand-alone department store in a good-sized city likely uses a great number of demonstrators, whereas a discount department store in a strip mall uses far fewer, if any. Trade events, meanwhile, can be found all over the world. Major annual boat shows take place in Newport, Rhode Island; Orlando, Florida; Long Beach, California and Brisbane, Australia, among other places. Artists’ models are employed by art and photography schools to pose for students in classrooms and studios. They’re also retained by the individual painters, sculptors and photographers themselves. Fashion institutes hire models for their students who are studying fashion illustration. Professional illustrators usually work for department stores, so it would be the retailer who would hire the model to pose for the artist. Garment or fit models work mainly in New York City’s garment district. Fashion modeling jobs are available anywhere that has local advertising of any kind, and that’s pretty much everywhere. However, jobs are most plentiful where national advertising firms (and, consequently, modeling agencies) are situated: New York, Atlanta, Chicago, Dallas, Los Angeles, Miami. When you are employed as a fashion model, you may work in a photographer’s studio, in another indoor location, outdoors or (as is the case in the famous annual swimsuit issue of Sports Illustrated) in some exotic location.

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Runway work can be found wherever fashion exists, including at your local mall and onstage at hotels that host charity events or business lunches. Haute couture runway work takes place mainly in Paris and Milan; even New York falls short when compared with the old-name European fashion houses like Dior, Chanel and Gucci.

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THE WORK YOU WILL DO THE JOB ALMOST ALWAYS BEGINS WITH YOUR AGENCY. AGENTS ARE THE LIAISON

between models and clients. Not only do they have the contacts models need to get work, they also provide a great variety of invaluable support services to assist models in navigating their careers. Agents provide advice and training, promote models to clients and help models compile portfolios. They arrange the auditions known as “go-sees” and schedule bookings. Once a year, agencies send a promotion known as a “head sheet” to all clients. A head sheet is a compilation of photographs of all the models the agency represents. Agencies also offer bookkeeping, billing and financial planning services. In return, they receive a portion of the fees their models earn. Even if you book a job on your own, your agency may be entitled to a commission. Models must keep in constant communication with their agencies. When your agent informs you of a go-see or a booking, she will tell you when, where, how long it’s expected to take and how much you’ll be paid. You should also find out whether hair, makeup and fashion stylists will be involved or if you’ll be expected to make those provisions on your own. Models who sit for drawing classes at fashion institutes have to wear their own clothes and fix their own hair and makeup; so do photographic models, surprisingly often. You’ll also want to ask what product is being promoted so you can be prepared for the type of image you’ll be asked to project. The go-see/audition itself may last less than a minute or more than a half-hour; the interviewers may decide instantly whether you do or don’t have the look they have in mind. More likely, though, they’ll want to chat with you awhile to get a sense of your personality and how you hold yourself in the world. They’ll probably want to inspect your portfolio. And they’ll tell you something about the project at hand, so you’ll want to take notes in your day planner, which goes everywhere you do. Modeling work can be roughly divided into two types, live and photographic. Live modeling includes trade show, demonstration, showroom, fit and runway work, whereas photographic modeling includes editorial, commercial and catalogs. 8

LIVE MODELING Product Demonstrators Models working as demonstrators and

product promoters are more directly engaged in selling than are models working in other capacities. These pros are employed to generate interest in new products and spur sales of existing products. They urge shoppers, show visitors and other prospective customers to try on, taste and use products. They answer questions and show how things work (without a hitch, one hopes!). They may distribute brochures, product samples, coupons, entry forms for door prizes. Sometimes they sell the merchandise themselves, but usually they direct customers to a retail clerk or collect names of prospects whom salespeople can call upon later. These are the folks who greet you as you enter the department store and invite you to fill out a credit application, who offer you a makeover as you pass through the cosmetics area and who spritz you with perfume as you board the escalator. At a yacht show, they’re aboard wearing captains’ uniforms; at an auto show, they’re standing on a revolving dais with a microphone extolling a vehicle’s virtues; at finish lines, they’re distributing free samples of energy drinks. Some clients may videotape the model’s sales pitch and performance so the tape can be aired to customers in a store or to sales staff. In all cases, the model is expected to convey the image the company wants to project and customers want to identify with, whether it’s one of wealth, successful homemaking, glamour, safety or wholesomeness.

Artists’s Models Modeling for a painter or a sculptor requires holding a pose for several minutes at a time, with short breaks in between. In most cases, you’ll go back to the same pose after each break. Fashion illustrators may be willing to work from photographs, but many want to work with live models whom they can have pose and re-pose. That way, the illustrator can depict the clothing from several different angles, emphasizing different elements of the outfit. Since fashion illustrators draw totally unrealistic representations of human beings to begin with, they’re free to elongate an already giraffe-like neck in order to call attention to an interesting neckline.

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Or, if the project is to promote accessories that are going on sale, they might protract the model’s waistline in the sketch to emphasize a belt, while lengthening her legs and shortening her skirt to show off a pair of thigh-high boots.

Fit and Showroom Models Fit and showroom models are seen

only by other professionals in the fashion industry, rather than by the general public, so this type of work is considered somewhat less glamorous than other types.

Fit models are used for sample fittings by fashion designers. They remain patient and cooperative while pattern-makers and designers pin, tuck, alter, fit and refit – just as if they were, quite literally, mannequins. Showroom models sport garments from a particular manufacturer or fashion designer. Their audience is made up of buyers employed by department stores and other clothing retailers. This tends to be seasonal work, and busiest times of year are when apparel is being previewed for spring, summer, fall and winter lines. However, it’s possible to get a full-time job with a particular design house (almost all of which are in New York City) and work a regular nine-to-five day, five days a week. Very upscale boutiques and high-fashion designer departments of clothing stores sometimes employ models to try on and display different outfits for select clientele.

Fashion Shows

Fashion shows small and large are the source of most runway work. But the absolute pinnacles of live modeling are the extravagant haute couture spectacles that showcase big-name designers’ latest offerings. These are the utmost of social events, attracting the titled and the entitled, the celebrated and especially the moneyed, all eager to spot and own the item that promises to be all the rage tomorrow and will be hopelessly out-of-date the day after tomorrow. Besides millionaires, the audience is made up of fashion writers, photographers, designers and buyers for clothing stores. When they’re not strutting down and up the narrow catwalk that leads from the stage into the audience, looking bored out of their minds, runway models are generally backstage changing clothes and being poked and prodded by makeup and hair stylists. Models invited to work the runway at one of the major shows in New York, Paris or Italy have already achieved supermodel status or are well on their way. 10

PHOTOGRAPHIC MODELING PHOTOGRAPHIC MODELING CAN BE DIVIDED INTO THREE CATEGORIES: EDITORIAL,

catalog and commercial. This is very desirable work because, unlike live modeling, it yields impressive-looking “tear sheets” that models can put in their portfolios to help them get the next job.

Editorial Still photographs of models that are used to illustrate magazine and newspaper articles and stories and to adorn book and magazine covers fall into the editorial category. It’s called “editorial” because it’s not advertising – even though a compelling cover picture might sell a magazine and a credible photo might help “sell” a feature article in a newspaper. Catalog Catalog models are hired to appear in department store and mail-order catalogs for companies like Land’s End, Sears and The Sharper Image. They’re depicted wearing or using the products or services being sold through the catalog, which can range from clothing to toys to computer courses to a bathtub filled with diamonds. Commercial Commercial modeling refers to photographs that are used

to promote a product in print ads in magazines and newspapers and outdoors on billboards, public transit shelters, the sides of buses and the roofs of taxis.

One of the essential items to bring to any photo shoot is the “model’s bag.” This contains any items that may be needed during the session, such as underwear, tights, hair styling products and accessories (spray, gel, headband, barrettes), cosmetics and toiletries (deodorant, razor, foundation and powder), a pair of sneakers and a pair of dress shoes, a manicure set and accessories (scarves, hats, sunglasses, jewelry, a watch, non-prescription “character” glasses). You must never assume your client will provide any of these items. In fact, the client is altogether correct to assume you will provide them. A few other things may be brought along, too: a book to pass the time while waiting to go on the set; a sweater if the shoot will be taking place outside on a windy day. Models may apply their own makeup and fix their own hair, or stylists and makeup artists may be provided. During the photo session, the photographer instructs the model to assume certain positions, poses and expressions. There may be several wardrobe and set changes, and stylists 11

may interrupt often for makeup and hair touch-ups. If present, the client will almost certainly make suggestions. Models may also work in television, particularly on commercials, game shows and home shopping programs and infomercials on cable TV. For non-speaking parts, many producers prefer to hire models instead of professional actors because it’s far less expensive.

Specialty Modeling Some people who aren’t blessed with the whole

physical package may have one exquisite attribute, affording them careers as specialty, or “parts,” models. Hand models, for instance, can find work demonstrating products on television. In print, they advertise jewelry, nail polish and anything that calls for a close-up photograph of hands holding, wearing or doing something. When the job is over, the model fills out a voucher, recording the hourly rate and duration of the job, which is signed by the client. Then the model checks in with the agency for the next appointment.

A MODEL’S OTHER ACTIVITIES WHEN THEY’RE NOT WORKING, MODELS SPEND A GREAT DEAL OF TIME PROMOTING

and developing themselves and their careers. This is the model’s portfolio or “book,” an album showing off the model’s best work from tests and bookings, and it must be kept up-to-date. The composite card, or z-card, is another promotional tool. Sort of a mini-portfolio, it’s an index card with a selection of the model’s best photos. It, too, must be updated on a regular basis. And, of course, there’s personal upkeep. Models have to make sure they get enough exercise and sleep, follow a healthy diet while monitoring their weight, take care of their skin, hair, nails and clothes.

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PROFESSIONAL MODELS TELL YOU ABOUT THEIR CAREERS I’ve Been Modeling On and Off Since I Was 12 Years Old “When I was younger,

my mother put me in a modeling school to help me gain confidence. I was very thin, shy and insecure, so she had hoped that it would help get me out of my shell. At first, I did mostly local work that hardly paid, but as I got older I moved around to larger cities looking for work and agencies. I was always able to make some extra money. I’ve always really enjoyed this work, although it wasn’t until about three years ago that I decided to make it more of a career. The actual modeling work isn’t very glamorous, but the outcome can be, if that makes any sense. I mean, it’s still work, but the picture can end up as art, and that’s the best part. Also, I love to travel. But things like dealing with very blunt people who have no problem pointing out all of your flaws, or shooting a bikini layout outside in the middle of a snowstorm – these things are not glamorous at all! I’m a photographer as well, so sometimes modeling is like being paid to go to school. I’ve been taking pictures for over 10 years and a few years ago, I opened a studio with a makeup artist friend of mine. I do a lot of location work, and my favorite types of photography are nature and fashion. I love both sides of the camera! My role models in this field are the photographers and artists that I work for. They’re the ones who matter to me most, certainly more than other models do. As it happens, I graduated from an art institute after high school. If you think you’d like to be a model, the first thing to do is find out what type of modeling is right for you. There are so many different types of modeling that people aren’t aware of. Do your homework about this field before trying to get into it. 13

Know the hazards and the pitfalls. You’ll be better off that way. People – agents, mostly – can be quite unkind about what they do and do not like about you, but they don’t mean for you to take it personally. It’s business, not personal. Listen to them with an open mind. If you agree with them, change what you can, but only in ways that are healthy, of course. If you don’t agree with them, try another agency. You have to have a thick skin in this business.”

I’m a 21-year-old Model, Actor and Stuntman Living in England “In my experience, you

don’t need formal training at all to become a model. In fact, I earned a three-year modeling contract just by ringing up an agency and sending some photos of me my mother took!

The training I do have is not specific to modeling. I have preliminary training in stage fighting and falling and martial arts; I also have an Orange belt in Wado-Ryu Karate. I’ve had some experience of theater and the arts and am now branching out into the television and film media. I think modeling is quite rewarding in many ways. The best thing from my point of view would be the traveling. Certainly the paycheck comes in handy, and the ego boost feels good. The downside, naturally, is always having to look your best, which proves difficult at 6 o’clock in the morning on top of a windswept hill. The business is very competitive, but if you feel that you have what it takes, don’t let egotism or fear of failure stand in your way. There are many aspects of modeling. Just find one you like and get a good agent. Then, go for it!”

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I’ve Done Runway, Print, Catalog, Commercial, Showroom and Event Promotional Modeling “I grew up on a farm in the

Pacific Northwest with lots of brothers and sisters. We’re all very close and believe in strong family values. My father is Polish and my mother is Native American, so I have a kind of unique look that agencies like.

I won a regional teenage beauty pageant, and decided to look into modeling professionally. I graduated from a one-year program at the Barbizon Modeling School. I also attended a two-week theater camp where I learned things that models should know, such as stage presence. I’m very active in sports and can do shoots that have me running, swimming, downhill or cross-country skiing, kayaking, canoeing, rope-climbing or playing soccer, tennis or softball. I’m mostly interested in swimwear and fitness modeling, but I won’t do nudity. I’ve done a couple of commercials, one for a soft drink sold overseas and one for a best-selling soap product here in the United States. It’s very cool when your friends recognize you in ads and commercials. Showroom modeling is tough. The client makes you stand by the door in high heels all day, smiling, for hours and hours until you’re ready to drop. When I’m not playing sports, I’m on the Internet. It is an amazing promotional tool. Now I can get worldwide exposure at the click of a button! My advice to aspiring models: Never do anything you’re not comfortable with. You don’t even need to give a reason why. Stand up for your beliefs! I don’t think models/actors should be role models. I look to God for my strength and answers.”

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I’m Preparing for the Eventual Demise of My Modeling Career by Pursuing Web Design “I’ve worked in every

category you can think of, and that’s what I like most about this business – the diversity in assignments. Everything from demonstrating a new product to a print assignment for a future tear sheet. Along the way, I’ve promoted the city of Seattle as a tourist destination as well as yogurt, facial tissues, shampoo and replay television. What I like least is waiting for payment, but that’s the nature of this beast. Most agencies pay anywhere from 30 to 45 days after any assignment. Having special skills maximizes the chances of getting hired. I include kickboxing and public speaking among mine, and I also have some acting experience. I was just cast in a ‘featured extra’ role for a true-crime show. I play a neighbor who witnesses one of the Boston Strangler’s murders. The program shows a re-enactment of his crimes, and my part was partly scripted and partly improvised. I feel that real-world experience is the best education. Learn how to market and promote yourself. That’s the key in the business. Get your name and face out! Now, I’m freelancing as a Web designer; a lot of my first clients came through contacts I had in the modeling business. No matter what your age, there is room for everyone in this business. Perseverance and determination will get you there!”

I’m a Male Fitness Model as Well as an Actor and a Voiceover Artist “I like being in

front of the camera because it gives me an opportunity to express myself artistically. What I don’t like about the business is the attitude of many of the people – both artists and photographers – and the amount of back-stabbing that happens. 16

Also, work is not always constant, so it can be kind of stressful wondering when the next job will come. If you think about it, you actually have to compete for each individual paycheck. To prepare for modeling, I would suggest some type of business training. Being a model, you’re basically your own company selling your own product (yourself). You need to be able to manage money and have business dealings with people. It also helps to know what’s going on so that people don’t take advantage of you – which, I repeat, they will try to do in this business (not all, but some). Having said that, I should note that I’ve taken acting classes and have training in cold readings, improvisation and scene study. I’ve been in some small films, daytime dramas and theatrical productions. I’m fluent in several languages and can mimic a variety of dialects, so I also do voiceover work. In fact, if I weren’t a model, I would probably be an interpreter. It would give me an opportunity to utilize my facility with languages. NEVER do anything that makes you feel uncomfortable. If you question what you are doing, don’t do it. ‘No’ is the easiest word in the English language, but in this industry it seems to be the hardest word for people to say. Remember, this is a business. You should treat it like one. If an agency requests money from you, make sure they tell you to what purpose the money will be used. If it doesn’t sound right, don’t be so quick to sign with that agency.”

I Live in Belgium, but I Hope My Modeling Work Takes Me to California “For me, the best thing about this

work is the versatility the modeling business permits. Since I began my career, I’ve been involved in a great variety of projects and I’ve met a lot of great people, each one more interesting than the last. Sometimes as a model you feel as if you’re being inspected like a piece of meat; but first impressions matter and being 17

evaluated for your looks is just part and parcel of the modeling business. I’m a full-time student of communication management. My studies and my occupation are related insofar as I want to gain commercial experience to maximize my chances of success in the United States, where I hope to relocate after I graduate. I’ve always dreamed of getting to California, but I’ll finish my education first. I plan to use my communication management and Latin modern languages diplomas, along with my fluency in Spanish, English, Dutch, French and some German, to find a job in the States. Ideally, the combination of my background, education and ambition will allow me to find work in the media industry or show business, either in front of the camera or behind the scenes. do!

We’ll see where I end up, but I definitely know what I want to

Not everyone will get rich doing modeling, but most of us are able to earn a bit of money and have an enjoyable experience. Just take a look at the thousands of advertising and promotional campaigns worldwide – all kinds of people are involved. Not just high-fashion, catwalk models. There are many, many divisions and opportunities. You can find a lot of information about models and modeling on the Internet, and please feel free to contact me through my Web site at www.pablovicente.com if I can help in any way. I’ve been helped a lot, and I feel that returning the favor to other aspiring models is the least I can do. Always be yourself, be honest and don’t let yourself get self-important just because you’re able to make a living with your looks. Be careful; know who you’re working with and for. But most of all, enjoy it.”

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PERSONAL QUALIFICATIONS YOU WILL NEED to 5’11" TALL, WEAR SIZE FOUR TO EIGHT DRESS and weigh around 118 pounds. (This standard exists because designers feel their clothing looks best on people who are tall and thin.) They need to have even facial features with good bone structure, full lips and clear, wide-set eyes; and a firm, toned, slender, and well-proportioned body. FEMALE MODELS SHOULD BE 5’9"

Male models are six feet to six-two, size 40 regular or long. They have a 31"-32" inch waist, a 33-35 sleeve, and a 15 1/2 to 16 1/2 neck. Their smaller facial features are in a pleasing proportion to their tall, slender bodies, which boast nicely developed chest and stomach muscles. Those are the rules; here are some of the typical exceptions: A plus-size model can be 5’7" and wear up to a size 24, as long as she is well proportioned. Petite models can be as short as 5’4" (“short” for a model, average for most women). Carré Otis, a runway phenomenon in the 1990s, recently recast her career in the plus-size mold. Men and women of any height, weight and age can be specialty models if they have a bankable asset that is perfection itself: beautiful hands with slender fingers and shapely nails; long, elegant legs; exquisite eyes or lips; a flawless complexion; luxurious hair; white, straight teeth; a perfect size six foot. Agents for professional models recommend against plastic surgery because it’s expensive, risky and unpredictable. More to the point, what one photographer may consider an imperfection or a flaw may turn out to be part of your signature look. Lauren Hutton has a prominent space between her two front teeth; Sela Ward has an underbite; photographers used to erase Cindy Crawford’s beauty mark in the darkroom. It’s more important to your sense of self to develop a healthy body image than it is to conform to some cookie-cutter ideal of beauty. Models should also: Have poise and self-confidence Be ambitious, motivated and positive Always exude professionalism and demonstrate self-discipline Know how to spend and invest money wisely and act like an intelligent businessperson (your agency can help you here)

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Maintain health and stamina (models may seem fragile, but this is extremely strenuous work) Stay away from drugs (models who party are notoriously unreliable – not to mention you could wreck your health, your future and your very life) Learn to handle rejection with aplomb (it’s not about you!) Cultivate a spirit of independence and self-reliance (especially useful when you’re traveling). Most critically, models must be photogenic, an indescribable certain something that only a modeling professional can tell you whether you are.

Pablo Vicente Website: http://www.pablovicente.com

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ATTRACTIVE FEATURES TO THIS CAREER MONEY, FAME, GLAMOUR AND THE OPPORTUNITY TO TRAVEL ARE AMONG THE

features that make modeling such an alluring career.

You get to wear the latest fashions, socialize with the rich and famous, turn heads, elicit the envy and admiration of others. Meanwhile, you’re learning a great deal about how the business world works. You’re also developing your self-confidence and other traits that will serve you the rest of your life. Different areas of modeling bring with them different rewards. Artists’ and sculptors’ models may be immortalized as muses to great talents. Posing for the world’s top fashion illustrators is considered very prestigious. Promotional work can be exhilarating for those who are gregarious and enjoy interacting with the public. You may know that a model’s career tends to last for only a few years, which is a definite disadvantage. But did you consider that a modeling career can be parlayed into a variety of other interesting professions? In fact, lots of people get into modeling for the express purpose of getting noticed so they can pursue their other interests and passions. In addition to business smarts, this job hones your fashion awareness, self-discipline, competitive spirit, initiative, determination, work ethic and other traits that make you better qualified for other jobs and attractive to employers. The list of prospective new jobs you might get after an active modeling career include: Fashion merchandiser Retail buyer Agent/manager Photographer Fashion designer Makeup artist Hairstylist Artist’s representative Fashion illustrator Fashion coordinator (assemble clothing ensembles from hair to shoes)

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Stylist (in charge of the complete “look” to be created with the model, including hair, clothes, makeup, overall mood) You could start your own modeling school or agency, like Wilhelmina. Industries related to fashion in which you might also find interesting work are advertising, public relations, retail and publishing (books, videos, fashion and beauty magazines for consumers and for the trade). Show business is another related field that’s a powerful draw for former models. After all, show biz, fashion, advertising and modeling are all about creating an illusion. Jobs include broadcaster, television host, singer or other performer, filmmaker and set designer. Many models seek to translate their experiences and talents into acting careers. Those who have appeared on commercial television, are photogenic, know how to work with a live-action camera, and are comfortable about auditioning, are in the best position to compete. Models-turned-actors include Sela Ward, Phoebe Cates, Denise Richards, Nick Nolte, Cameron Diaz, Angie Harmon, Mark Wahlberg, Brooke Shields and Delta Burke. There’s no rule against being active in a variety of fields. Beverly Johnson has been an actor and an author; former Ford model Debbie Press taught modeling classes and produced fashion shows, and also wrote a book called Your Modeling Career. Betty Furness used her career as a model to become an actress and then a commercial spokeswoman. During the Johnson administration, she was appointed to positions in consumer protection, and she was a consumer reporter/consumer advocate with NBC’s Today Show for nearly 20 years.

UNATTRACTIVE FEATURES STANDING AROUND ALL DAY LOOKING GORGEOUS WHILE PEOPLE FAWN ALL OVER

you, and making a lot of money for it. What could be bad?

There’s plenty about the modeling business that isn’t pretty. Modeling is a brutally competitive business and you’re likely to come into contact with other models who are better looking, hungrier and more cut-throat than you. Artists, designers and stylists can be temperamental. Seamstresses, pattern-makers, photographers and clients may be brusque, 22

treating models as if they literally were mannequins instead of human beings with emotions and insecurities. The work can be grueling. When being photographed, models often work long hours under hot lights. Posing outdoors, they’re always vulnerable to the vagaries of Mother Nature; and they may have to wear swimsuits in the winter and fur coats in the summer. (That’s because magazine ads and editorial photos are prepared months in advance of publication.) Demonstrators and product promoters have to stand or walk around for several hours, remaining cheerful and approachable. Modeling for a painter or a sculptor can be tedious, as well as physically uncomfortable. Traveling may be one of the widely cited perks to this career, but it can also be lonely to spend so much time away from family and friends. Models who work in foreign countries must deal with culture shock and language barriers as well as homesickness. You have to pay constant attention to your physical self. You can’t stay out late or consume too much salt or let loose and eat an entire pizza. If you don’t take care of yourself, you won’t have the energy required for this work; in addition, your self-neglect will show up on camera. Eating disorders are an all-too-common occupational hazard of modeling, so you have to nurture a healthy attitude toward food without becoming obsessive or compulsive. You might also be tempted to try substances – anything from over-the-counter dietary supplements to illicit drugs – that promise to burn calories, boost your metabolism and provide energy. Don’t do it – not only are there significant health risks, but also nothing will derail your career faster than drug abuse. Any reputable modeling or talent agent will tell you so. It’s hard not to take rejection personally. If you’re not selected for a particular job, it’s probably because you don’t have the particular look the client is seeking. You might be just right for the next one.

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EDUCATION AND TRAINING YOU WILL NEED THERE ARE PLENTY OF INSTITUTIONS THAT PROMISE TO TEACH YOU HOW TO BE A

model and would be more than happy to take your money. However, nine out of 10 working models have never taken a single such course. In fact, many agencies prefer to sign models with no experience or training because they prefer to groom models themselves. Your agency will make sure you get all the information and advice you need. The best way to learn modeling is to plunge in. Employers who hire models to do product promotion and demonstration do generally provide training, but it teaches the employee about the product so he/she can answer questions about it. The training does not teach anything about how to model. If you do decide to take courses to learn how to make the most of your natural gifts, select the academy carefully. Avoid any school whose advertising or representatives guarantee to improve your chances of succeeding as a model, because that’s not realistic. Find out if the school is licensed and bonded, whether it’s affiliated with a licensed and bonded modeling agency, whether it’s a member of the Better Business Bureau or an industry organization. Is it operated and staffed by people with experience and contacts in the modeling business? Ask what its recent graduates are doing, and see if you can contact them directly. An institution that is reluctant to let you talk to its students may have something to hide. Study curricula and see that the schools you’re interested in cover the basics and the essentials. Some well-thought-of schools include John Robert Powers, John Casablancas and Barbizon (“Be a model or just look like one”), all of which have several locations around the United States. A solid modeling curriculum should include classes on grooming and dressing, personal development, different types of modeling and career development. Some types of subjects to look for include: Poise and posture and positions Skin, nail and hair care Makeup application Diet, nutrition and exercise Personal color analysis, wardrobe planning and accessorizing 24

Speech Professional decorum Schools may have special curricula for pre-teens, men, plus-size models and/or aspiring model/actors. If you need financial assistance, you should contact the Modeling Association of America International Inc. (MAAI), a not-for-profit organization dedicated to discovering new faces at its annual convention at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York City. MAAI has established the Modeling & Fashion Arts Fund as an organization dedicated solely to granting scholarships to qualified applicants. There’s a junior scholarship division for ages 13-15 and a senior scholarship division for ages 16-26. You have to fill out an application and submit your academic transcripts in order to qualify. Applicants are judged on quality of responses, financial need, scholastic record, citizenship, potential for development in the industry and other factors. You might also want to take classes in the performing arts if you want to be considered for commercials, soap operas or any other television or video work. Hollywood is teeming with models-turned-actors; with some talent and training in voice, dance, acting, speech and drama, you could be one of them. If you expect to travel extensively, consider studying foreign languages. And since most models move quickly from making no money at all to making huge sums, a basic classroom introduction to personal finance might be a good idea.

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WHAT YOU WILL EARN SUPERMODEL LINDA EVANGELISTA ONCE SAID, “I DON’T GET OUT OF BED FOR LESS

than $10,000 a day.”

The very real prospect of making very big money is one of the things that makes this career so desirable. But the huge majority of working models have to get out of bed for considerably less than $10,000 a day. Models may be paid by the hour, by the day (per diem) or by the project (a set fee for a three-day fashion show, for instance). Models who appear in television commercials are paid according to contracts determined by actors’ unions. There are so many variables that will determine your earnings: where you’re working (small-town United States, New York City, overseas), your rate of demand, whether you’re working to full capacity and the type of bookings you get. It’s reasonable to expect to earn at least $15,000 your first year if you’re even moderately successful. By your second year, if you’re still working, expect to earn $50,000. On the other hand, with all variables working in her favor, a model just 13 years old can bring in a whopping $300,000 annually. And, of course, top models with name recognition earn millions of dollars a year – partly because they franchise their names and famous faces into other profitable enterprises like exercise videotapes, calendars and lines of clothing and cosmetics. Here are representative fees for different types of bookings. For the most part, they refer to female models. Male models are making significant inroads, but they still command a fraction of what females do. Artists’ models earn around $12 to $25 per hour. Fees are lower because artists work within smaller budgets; since a single portrait could take several months, a high hourly rate would be prohibitive. Fees for editorial modeling are around $175 for a full day’s work. It’s worth it, though, because you’ll get tear sheets for your portfolio when the story’s published.

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Promotional show bookings pay from $25 an hour for the most basic job (greeting prospective customers) to as much as $250 per hour for a job that involves a lot of interaction, great sales skills and high-end products. Seasonal work in manufacturers’ showrooms pays hourly rates from around $40 to $55; photographic work for department stores pays models around $85/hour. Fit or garment models are usually hired for a week at a time, and may even be hired full time by a fashion house, so this is considered relatively steady work. It also pays well, around $65 to $165 an hour. Catalog work is also very desirable, because it pays extremely well and also provides portfolio-worthy tear sheets. Hourly rates range from about $200 to $275. A model with a well-known face (if not an immediately recognizable name) lends prestige and credibility to the client and can command $550 per hour. Part and specialty models, including shoe models, earn similar rates for photographic work, whether for catalogs or print advertising. Runway work generally pays by the event, rather than the day or hour. Depending on the designer(s) and the type and relative extravagance of the production, fashion shows may pay models the equivalent of $165 to $550 to as much as $1,000 per hour. The big money is in TV commercials. A model who’s a member of the Screen Actors Guild could easily earn $20,000 for a single commercial – more, if the commercial runs longer than the initial contract period, in which case residuals are due the model. Residuals also apply in print advertising. Your agency is entitled to a commission for each of your bookings which generally amounts to around 20% of your fee.

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OUTLOOK AND OPPORTUNITY MODELING IS A RISKY CAREER WITH AN UNCERTAIN FUTURE. FASHION IS NOTORIOUSLY

fickle and your “look” could become obsolete at any time. And because a youthful appearance is critical, many female models retire before they are 25.

At the same time, there’s a refreshing trend toward employing models who more accurately represent what the real world looks like. American Vogue first featured an African-American woman on its cover in 1974 (the Wilhelmina agency supermodel Beverly Johnson); today, there is excellent opportunity for people of color and models with so-called “ethnic” or “exotic” appearance. It took the fashion industry a long time to figure out that there is a huge untapped market for elegant and stylish clothing for women who wear larger than size 4. The US market for plus-size apparel is an estimated $30 billion annually. Men are taking an interest in fashion, due in part to the trend toward casual dress at work. Instead of automatically donning the blue pinstripe uniform, men have to think about what they’re going to wear to the office. So male models are increasingly in demand. Unlike women, male models can usually find work into their 40s, as long as they maintain a youthful appearance. Also, “real” people with less-than-extraordinary looks – indeed, people of all shapes and sizes – are increasingly used in editorial photographs, print advertising and catalogs, and even TV commercials. So are older people, appealing for the first time directly to a generation that drops loads of money on the products being promoted but haven’t seen themselves represented in the ads. There are more types of media than ever before; music videos, computer games, Internet catalogs and e-zines all represent new and growing opportunities for models. On the other hand, periodic economic downturns dampen demand for models as businesses are forced to reduce their advertising budgets.

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GETTING STARTED THERE ARE TWO REASONS TO PERFORM A SELF-ASSESSMENT BEFORE YOU START OUT.

The first is to give you a chance to see which features should be enhanced, which should be modified and which should be camouflaged or concealed. The second reason is so you know which modeling agencies to contact. Different agencies have different specialties and quotas. No matter how attractive and winning you are, if an agency already represents someone with your look, or doesn’t represent your type at all, they probably can’t use you. Even Wilhelmina, which represents all different types of professional models, in almost every age, size and ethnicity, doesn’t have provisions for petites; some agencies don’t represent men. You can begin your search by looking in your local Yellow Pages for modeling agencies. If pickings in your area are slim, you can find a telephone directory for a major metro area or regional market like New York, Miami, San Francisco or Seattle on the Internet or at your local library. Industry associations may also have information about agencies in your area. Phone the agencies that interest you and ask them to send you more information about their services and costs, if any. This literature should contain their credentials as well as references, which you should check. If you live nearby or are willing to travel at your own expense, ask them when they hold their open houses. If not, tell them you’d like to send them a package and ask what items they’d like to have included. Usually, they’ll want photographs and a cover letter describing your vital statistics, special skills, contact info, etc. Open house (or open call) in the modeling business results in hundreds or even thousands of hopefuls swarming into an agency with the dream of getting signed. You’ll need to bring two photographs with you, one head shot and one full-length. Agencies generally discourage aspiring models from having their pictures taken by professional photographers, who may apply their own “signature” to what should be very simple snapshots. Agents don’t want to see makeup or props; they want to see your skin tone, bone structure and body frame so they can evaluate your true photogenic potential. 29

Ask the agency how you should dress for the open house. Some say jeans and a T-shirt are fine, as long as they’re clean and unwrinkled. Others want to see girls in a short skirt, white top and low pumps and boys in slacks, button-down shirts and loafers. In any case, the rule is to keep it simple. Avoid too much makeup and jewelry. Meanwhile, think about entering beauty competitions and pageants or auditioning to participate in fashion shows. The International Modeling and Talent Association can provide a list of events that are legitimate and well organized and can help you launch your career and even get you “discovered.” Modeling is a career full of opportunity – the opportunity to make a great living, to enjoy a certain degree of celebrity, and to continue engaging in exciting and glamorous activities for the rest of your professional life. Maybe you will be one of the lucky ones!

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ASSOCIATIONS AND ORGANIZATIONS

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International Modeling and Talent Association http://www.imta.com/

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Modeling Association of America International Inc. http://www.maai.org/

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The Models Guild http://www.themodelsguild.org/

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World Modeling Association

PERIODICALS n

Back Stage (Los Angeles)

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BackStage (New York)

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BBW

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Brides Magazine

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Ebony Fashion Fair

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Elle

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Essence

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Glamour

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Harpers Bazaar

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Hype Hair

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Mirabella

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Mode 31

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Model News

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Modern Bride

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Pageantry Magazine www.pageantrymagazine.com/

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Petite Magazine

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Self

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Seventeen

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Sophisticate’s Black Hair Guide

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Today’s Model

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Variety

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Vogue

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W

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WWD

Copyright 2005 Institute For Career Research CHICAGO CAREERS INTERNET DATABASE www.careers-internet.org

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