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May 2011 Volume 48, No. 5 www.happi.com
89
FEATURES 80
HBA Global Expo 2011
82
Microbiological Quality Of Consumer Products
The conference program provides insight into innovations, trends and new product developments.
The CSPA surveys practices used to ensure microbiological quality of household/institutional products by focusing on raw material controls, finished product quality and process hygiene.
COLUMNS 54
Gleams & Notions In the thick of it
89
A Matter of Self-Preservation If marketers think that they can rework formulations and remove tried-andtrue preservation systems, they face the prospect of contamination and, ultimately, backlash from consumers and health authorities.
Cover Story
97
No Appointment Necessary For consumers who want to hide the signs of aging without the downtime or breaking the bank, skin care marketers say they have the right prescription. A list of new skin care ingredients begins on p. 108.
120 Modified Cetyl Betaine Surfactants in Personal Care Stepan researchers have developed a mild surfactant, derived from natural feedstocks, that works effectively with various hydrotropic surfactants.
56
EuroTrends Big gains in fragrance for women in Europe
60
A Strategic Point of View Beauty stores re-configure
66
Notes from China Demand for body care is on the rise in China
70
The Grayson Report The return of fashion is a boost for beauty
97 74
The Sunscreen Filter In the sun, in the dark
Cover design: Laura Caramagna Cover photo: Estée Lauder
4 • happi
happi.com
May 2011
DEPARTMENTS 8
Editor’s Page
50
Will it work... or won’t it?
10
Index to Companies
How safe are professional hair smoothers?
52
A quick guide to the companies referenced in this issue of HAPPI
12
Online at Happi.com
News Front
124
Formulary
Patent Review
New Products M-I-C...see this new soap from Method
126
More optimistic consumers loosen purse strings
22
124
Non-irritating photoprotective composition
Do the rich get richer? Read our R&D salary survey
14
Regulations
Packaging News Calmar’s curve mini trigger sprayers new from McKernan
127
Moisturizing shampoo for ethnic hair
137
Personnel Roundup Humberstone named executive VP at Lipo Chemicals
SCC News Annual scientific seminar is June 2-3 in Las Vegas
146
Photo News Jafra rewards a mom with drive
32
International
128
L’Oréal inaugurates predictive evaluation center
40
Marketing News
NYSCC Suppliers’ Day returns to Edison May 10-11
130
Johnson Products Co. signs Carmelo Anthony
146
Meetings
Financial News Blyth is getting bigger with proper nutrition
132
Supplier’s Corner Naturex launches new active for rejuvenation
134
Industry News ISP, Takasago form alliance
6 • happi
happi.com
ADVERTISING SECTIONS 139
Contract Packaging/ Private Label
142
Professional Directory
143
Classified Ads
144
Advertising Index May 2011
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Editor’s Page
WILL IT WORK… OR WON’T IT?
H
OPE SPRINGS ETERNAL this
time of year in the HAPPI office. Not because it’s May, but because we’re covering the trends in the resilient skin care market. This year is no different and Christine Esposito’s coverage of this multibillion-dollar segment can be found on p. 97. Interestingly, however, a recent study by The NPD Group found that 56% of current anti-aging facial skin care users say they are not sure if these types of products really work, but they use them anyway. Talk about a loyal following! Just imagine how high sales would climb if anti-aging products truly delivered on what they promised? On the flip side, what would happen if consumers walk past the beauty counters and stick with good old petroleum jelly, a material, that the late great Dr. Albert Kligman once called,“the best damn occlusive agent” for dry skin. For purely moisturizing purposes, Kligman was right. But, of course, consumers today expect some aesthetics with their day creams; you know, things like good feel, great scent and, perhaps most importantly, some trendy anti-aging ingredients. To find out what products they want and how to create them, be sure to read our skin care coverage in this issue, which includes new ingredients from industry suppliers. And be sure to stop by the HAPPI stand (Booth No. 833) at Suppliers’ Day 2011 in Edison, NJ. This annual event, run by the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, is loaded with new ideas for formulators. Also this month, we get suppliers’ perspectives on preservatives (p. 89). Too often, these days, unscientific types are dictating the flow of information regarding these important ingredients. But as industry experts point out, preservatives play a key role in maintaining product safety and consumer health. On a related topic, Phil Geis of Procter & Gamble and Tony Rook of Sherwin-Williams provide a detailed look at the microbiological quality of consumer products (p. 82). This survey, under the auspices of the Consumer Specialty Products Association, reviews the practices used to ensure the microbiological quality of household and institutional products. We hope you enjoy this edition of HAPPI. As always, we welcome your comments and suggestions.
Tom Branna Editorial Director
[email protected]
8 • happi
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V.P./EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Tom Branna,
[email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITORS: Melissa Meisel,
[email protected], Christine Esposito,
[email protected] COLUMNISTS: Ally Dai, Harvey Fishman, Navin Geria, Suzanne and Bob Grayson, Colin Hession, Katie Middleweek, Sueli Ortega, Patrick Ropella, Nadim Shaath CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Nancy Jeffries
RODMAN PUBLISHING PRESIDENT: Rodman J. Zilenziger, Jr.,
[email protected] EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT: Matthew J. Montgomery,
[email protected] PUBLISHER: Art Largar,
[email protected] ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Beth Russo,
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[email protected] PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Sharon Messner,
[email protected] ART & TECHNICAL MANAGER: Michael Del Purgatorio,
[email protected] ONLINE DIRECTOR: Paul Simansky,
[email protected] WEB MANAGER: Jason Lawton,
[email protected] CIRCULATION MANAGER: Joe DiMaulo,
[email protected] To renew/subscribe/update subscription information, please visit www.happi.com. Or contact:
[email protected] Tel: (201) 825-2552 ext. 374 Fax: (201) 825-6582.
A Rodman Publication 70 Hilltop Road Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA Tel: (201) 825-2552 Fax: (201) 825-0553 Website: www.Happi.com happi—Household and Personal Products Industry (ISSN 0090-8878) is published monthly on the 10th by Rodman Publishing Corp., 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA. Phone: (201) 825-2552. Fax: (201) 825-0553. Periodical postage paid at Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Agreement No 40028970: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Dept., PO Box 1051, Fort Erie, On L2A 6C7. Circulation Dept.: circulation @rodpub.com. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Happi, 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey NJ 07446 USA. Free subscriptions to Happi are available to qualified individuals. Others are as follows: U.S. one year $85; two years $115. Outside U.S. and overseas: one year $105 (U.S.), two years $150 (U.S.). Single issue: $12 (except for February, July and October, $15). 5% GST required on Canadian orders. GST#134451756. Foreign Airmail: one year $195 (U.S.). Make checks payable in U.S. dollars through a U.S. bank. American Express also accepted. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Missing Issues: Claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of the issue. PRINTED in USA. Happi’s circulation is audited by BPA International. Authorization to photocopy items in Happi for internal or personal use, or internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Rodman Publishing, provided a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 USA.
May 2011
. l o ily izo lc its fam br a o Lu e N p t ies in th u lt jo g gro cia se min re pe ea o a r S Pl elc l C e w na um in rso ons Pe ® C n eo ov N
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together. a powerful new combination of technologies led by Carbopol® and Merquat® polymers. SHUIRUPDQFHEHQHÀWV\RXUFXVWRPHUVZLOOQRWLFH in skin, hair, fabric and surface care. the same trusted formulations expertise and global manufacturing footprint you’ve come to expect, as we build upon our collective strengths to take innovation to the next level. we’re better together, with one common focus: your success. now more WKDQHYHU\RXFDQIRUPXODWHZLWKFRQÀGHQFH™. For more information visit: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare/bettertogether
MERQUAT
POLYMERIC EMULSIFIERS
®
Index to Companies • This index gives the starting page for a department or feature with a significant reference to a brand, finished product company, agency, research firm, retailer or trade association. Subsidiaries are indexed under their own names.
Ajax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Alberto Culver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Algenist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Almay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Amway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32, 66, 97 Arbonne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Artistry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Atopalm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Aveda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 80 Aveeno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Avon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 97 Bare Escentuals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 BB Sport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Beiersdorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Blyth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Bobbi Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 The Body Shop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60, 66 Boots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Bosley Professional Strength . . . . . . .124 Brand Keys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Burt’s Bees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 CCA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140 Chanel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 32 China Glaze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Christina-USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Clairol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 70 Clarins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 66 Clinique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 66, 97 Clorox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Colgate-Palmolive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Colomer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Coppertone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Coty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 60, 80 CoverGirl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 70 Crème of Nature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 CVS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Dermelect Cosmeceuticals . . . . . . . . . . 97 Dial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 DM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Douglas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Dove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps . . . . . . . . . . 40 Dr. Hauschka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Duane Reade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 DuoDish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 E! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 Earth Mama Angel Baby . . . . . . . . . . . 124 El Charro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 El Cortes Ingles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Elizabeth Arden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Erno Laszlo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 10 • happi
Estée Lauder . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 56, 80, 97 Euromonitor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 The Fragrance Foundation . . . . . .12, 134 Freeman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Fusion Brands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 FX Wild Harvest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 Garnier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 124 Garnier/Pantene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Gojo Industries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Gucci . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56, 60 Guerlain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 H2O Plus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Hampton Sun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Hautelook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 HBA Global Expo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Helena Rubenstein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Henkel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Herbal Essences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Herborist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Hermes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Hissyfit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Hugo Naturals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Iden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Inter Parfums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56, 130 IT&LY Hairfashion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 J.Crew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Jafra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 Jason . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Jimmy Choo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Jo Malone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Johnson & Johnson . . . . . . . . . 80, 97, 137 Johnson Products Company . . . . . . . . .40 Jurlique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66, 97 Kahina Giving Beauty . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 Kantar Worldpanel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Kirkland Signature (Costco) . . . . . . . . .40 L’Oréal . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 32, 40, 52, 60, 66 La Mer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 La Roche-Posay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Lalique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Lancôme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Laneige . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 LaPrairie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Laura Mercier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Living Proof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 M.A.C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Male . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Mary Kay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Mäurer & Wirtz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Max Factor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Maybelline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 70, 80 MCH Marketing Services . . . . . . . . . . 134 Mentholatum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Method . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 Moschino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Napoleon Perdis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Nature’s Gate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Neopharm Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Neutrogena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 74, 97 Nina Ricci . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 happi.com
Nivea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 66 NPD Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8, 56, 97 Obagi Medical Products . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Olay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 66, 97 One Love Organics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Origins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Palmer’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Pantene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Physicians Formula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Plackers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Playtex Product . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Ponds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Procter & Gamble . . 8, 12, 40, 52, 60, 70, 97 Puig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Purell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 QVC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80, 97 Redken/Pureology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Revlon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 70 Rimmel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 s.Oliver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Schlecker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Scientific by Kenneth Beer . . . . . . . . . .97 Sears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Sephora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 60, 97 Shanghai Jahwa United Co. Ltd. . . . . .66 SheaMoisture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Sherwin-Williams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Shiseido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 32, 66 SK-II . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 SKIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79 66 Smart Girl Politics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134 Smart Path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Softto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Solazyme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Stila . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 Suave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Sunrana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 SymphonyIRI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 56, 97 Telemundo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Tesco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 The Laundress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Thermafuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Trish McEvoy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 U.S. Army . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Ulta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Ultima II . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Unilever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 Unipro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Vichy Laboratoires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Viss Beauty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134 Waitrose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Watson’s Mariannaud . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 WD-40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Weleda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 Xen-Tan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 Xlear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Yankee Candle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Yon-Ka Paris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Zep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140 Zhuhai Sunrana Cosmetics . . . . . . . . .66 May 2011
Online at happi.com
DO THE RICH GET RICHER? READ OUR SALARY SURVEY • Now in its second year, our annual online R&D Salary
Survey has quickly become a favorite with HAPPI readers. We polled a portion of our readers—research and development personnel involved in household, personal care and industrial and institutional formulations—to determine their attitudes toward their jobs, salaries and concerns regarding work. At press time, more than 700 chemists had taken our survey. Find out what they think about their compensation and what’s happening in the lab as well as what takes place outside it.
What’s in their minds—and wallets? Happi’s R&D Salary Survey tells all.
It’s All About Mom
• Mother’s Day, annually held in the U.S. on the second
Sunday in May, celebrates motherhood and it is a time to appreciate mothers and mother figures of all ages. Many people give cards, flowers, a meal in a restaurant or other treats, but personal care gift sets stocked with goodies such as skin creams and color cosmetics offer a pampering plus to any gal’s day-to-day activities. This season, there’s no shortage of innovative gift ideas in the marketplace.
What’s New Underfoot? This month, mom is in the spotlight and marketers are trying to win her over with fragrance (above) and color cosmetics.
• P&G’s ProLine Floor Care System. Featuring DfE-
certified products, this new three-part system is designed to extend the time between scrub and recoat, so I&I customers get longer-lasting shine with less work. HAPPI.com spoke with Mike Weber, principal scientist of products research with Procter & Gamble Professional, to learn more about the system’s low-odor stripper, the neutral impact cleaners and all seven finishes, including a zinc-free version that that exceeds Green Seal’s GS-40 standards for I&I use.
Here’s to the Winners…
• Later this month, be sure to check back with
HAPPI.com to find out all the FiFi Winners. The Fragrance Foundation will roll out the red carpet to the industry’s movers and shakers on May 28 to celebrate the best new scents of the past year. •
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May 2011
Empowering Your Product with
Nature For Personal Care
Jungbunzlauer provides genuine ingredients for personal care products…naturally! Citric Acid and Sodium Citrates s Excellent pH regulation, appropriate for natural cosmetics s Superb odorless buffering agents
Xanthan Gum s Exceptional thickener and stabilizer, providing optimal rheology s Highest purity, GMO-free, ideal for natural care
Gluconates s Safe and natural chelants, EDTA-free s Gentle exfoliants and effective moisturizers found in honey
CITROFOL®
Mineral Salts s Zinc citrate, natural anti-bacterial agent for oral & topical treatments s Potassium citrate for oral care, reducing effects on sensitive teeth
ERYLITE® s Natural moisturizing properties ideal for creams and lotions s Reduces bitterness and enhances taste for oral care
Jungbunzlauer is committed to quality and sustainability.
s Efficient active ingredient for aluminum-free deodorants s Enhances long-lasting scents for perfumes
USA phone +1 617 969 0900
[email protected]
News Front
MORE OPTIMISTIC CONSUMERS LOOSEN PURSE STRINGS • Fewer consumers are switching brands to catch a sale and trading down to private label options, hinting at glimmers of optimism in a marketplace still marked by high levels of caution and frugality, according to findings of a new survey from SymphonyIRI. However, the number of consumers engaging in preplanning activities, such as coupon clipping and list making, remain virtually unchanged and are very much a part of consumers’ grocery shopping rituals. These results point to conservative, yet cautiously optimistic, shopping strategies that characterize SymphonyIRI’s inaugural MarketPulse survey, which is an evolution of its Competing in a Transforming Economy analysis series. SymphonyIRI released survey results at its Summit 2011 conference, which was held at Miami Beach’s Fontainebleau Hotel. “An economy in transition to recovery is as tricky to navigate for CPG, retail and healthcare leaders as an economy moving into recession,” said John Freeland, president and chief executive officer, SymphonyIRI. “Some shoppers are retaining their frugal ways, others are spending more freely across the board and others still are spending more on some types of products, but remaining tight fisted about others. They are also reevaluating where they purchase their products and updating their definition of value.” “This review of product and retail value proposition provides an outstanding opportunity for manufacturers and retailers willing to analyze carefully discrete shopper microsegments and understand the motivations and drivers of each,” continued Freeland. “SymphonyIRI’s new quarterly MarketPulse survey will provide decision makers with an important barometer on shopper activities.” Statistics from SymphonyIRI’s MarketPulse survey point to consumers holding the purse strings just a bit less tightly in their day-to-day lives: • 52% try to make personal care products last longer, versus 63% in 2009; and • 49% visit hair salons less often, as opposed to 55% last year. Still, grocery shopping is characterized by very deliberate and well thought out behaviors. For example, two out of three shoppers today are making shopping lists prior to visiting the store, which is 14 • happi
consistent with trends in 2010. Other survey results indicate that consumers are shifting back to their favorite brands, though value remains essential: • 38% of consumers in 2011 are giving up their favorite brands to save money, versus 46% in 2010; • 64% in 2011 state price has become a more important consideration than convenience in brand purchases, a decline of six points versus 2010; and • 36% of consumers are actively seeking private label brands to save money today, versus 44% in 2010. SymphonyIRI’s MarketPulse survey also researched respondents’ predictions regarding their personal financial situations during the next 12 months. In other findings, consumers are beginning to embrace new media, such as social networks and brand websites. In the coming year, nine percent of consumers expect that their brand decisions will be influenced by information gathered via website or e-mail, versus five percent for blogs or social networking sites. These figures remain largely unchanged versus 2010. SymphonyIRI will provide new survey results at the end of each calendar quarter, covering shoppers’ behaviors and attitudes as it directly relates to their strategies for learning about, purchasing and utilizing CPG and healthcare products, as well as information regarding perceptions of economic conditions and the ability to provide for their families. More info: www.SymphonyIRI.com
A Banner Year for Coupons • Forget about 2010 being the year of the Golden Tiger—it was the year of the coupon. Consumer packaged goods (CPG) manufacturers offered re-
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CPG marketers distributed 332 billion coupons in 2010.
May 2011
News Front
Luring Them in with Savings Household and personal care products hold a healthy share of the top 10 categories with highest growth in coupon distribution volume in 2010.
1. Oral Hygiene 2. Laundry Supplies 3. Fresheners & Deodorizers 4. Household Cleaners 5. Breakfast Foods – Shelf Stable 6. Pet Food 7. Yogurt 8. Personal Cleansing & Bath Products 9. Detergents 10. Liquor
A Continued Shift to Less Invasive Cosmetic Procedures •
Source: NCH Marketing Services
cession-weary consumers some $485 billion in savings via coupons, according to a report on 2010 coupon usage. This represents a 13.9% increase over the prior year and 47.4% growth compared to five years ago, according to the NCH Marketing Services 2010 Coupon Facts Report. “We have seen significant changes to shopping patterns, which have now been established as new habits and routines,” said Suzie Brown, chief marketing officer at Valassis, parent company of NCH Marketing Services. “Consumers’ continued interest in coupons and savings has been influenced by concerns over their own personal economic situations, and as a result, they are using more coupons, seeking savings wherever they can, combining print and digital offers and permanently becoming strategic shoppers.” In 2010, marketers once again distributed more CPG coupons than the prior year, reaching 332 billion—the largest single-year distribution quantity ever recorded in the U.S., exceeding the prior record set in 2009 by 6.8% or 21 billion coupons. Nearly two-thirds of all coupons distributed in 2010 were for grocery products, up 8% from the prior year to 216 billion coupons. The remaining coupon offers in 2010—116 billion coupons—were for health & beauty care (HBC) products, up 4.5% from the prior year. According to the report, seven of the top 10 categories with the highest growth are non-food categories, which can be attributed to marketers’ desire to make these often-times discretionary purchases more desirable. In addition, the report found that the average face value of CPG coupons distributed in 2010 increased 6.6% to $1.46, and 26% of all CPG coupons issued in 2010 required the purchase of two or more items to obtain the offer discount. According to the report, the average coupon face value distributed for HBC products was $1.94, up 6.6% from the prior year. However, just 13% of HBC coupons required multiple purchases to receive the discount. According to the NCH Coupon Facts Report, overall, 87.7% 16 • happi
of all CPG coupons were distributed in 2010 via the freestanding insert (FSI). Total FSI total growth in coupons was 19 billion, the largest volume increase of all media. The second largest share of coupons distributed was via in-store media, amounting to 5.2% of the 2010 total. Digital coupons, including both paper and paperless formats, continued to grow in 2010 as marketers embraced these methods to reach a new audience. In total, NCH measured a 37% increase in the number of digital coupon offers, the largest increase of all coupon media types.
According to survey results released by the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery (AAFPRS), 75% of the procedures performed by the Academy’s surgeons in 2010 were non-surgical, highlighting a trend that more people are choosing non-surgical procedures to delay more invasive surgical procedures. The results were released at the AAFPRS Rejuvenation of the Aging Face Meeting held in January. According to AAFPRS, the most common non-surgical procedures last year were Botox and hyaluronic acid injections. The most common non-surgical procedures for women under age 35 were Botox injections (65%, up from 58% in 2009), hyaluronic acid injections (51%), microdermabrasion (23%) and chemical peels (22%). Women between 35-60 most commonly underwent brow lifts, facelifts, blepharoplasty (eyelids), Botox, chemical peels, and filler injections, which all showed at least a 5% increase from 2009. Filler Less is more these days, according to results of a recent survey by the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery (AAFPRS).
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May 2011
News Front
Cosmetic Brand Loyalty and Engagement Rankings for 2011 Cosmetics (Luxury)
Facial Moisturizers (Luxury)
Hair Color
1. Lancôme 2. Estée Lauder 3. Clinique 4. Chanel 5. Shiseido
1. Elizabeth Arden 2. Lancôme 3. Clarins 4. Clinique 5. Estée Lauder 6. Chanel/Shiseido
1. Clairol/L’Oréal 2. Garnier 3. Revlon
Cosmetics 1. Mary Kay 2. Maybelline 3. CoverGirl 4. L’Oréal 5. Max Factor/Sephora 6. Revlon 7. Avon/Neutrogena 8. Almay 9. Rimmel 10. Coty
Facial Moisturizers 1. Mary Kay 2. L’Oréal 3. Avon 4. Ponds 5. Nivea/Oil of Olay 6. Neutrogena
1. Aveda 2. Neutrogena/Pantene 3. Herbal Essences/L’Oréal 4. Garnier/Suave
Hair Shampoos 1. Suave 2. Herbal Essences 3. Garnier/Pantene 4. Dove 5. L’Oréal Source: Brand Keys CLEI survey
injections and chemical peels increased 12% and 26%, respectively, since last year, said AAFPRS. A majority of surgical procedures, including facelift, revision surgery, rhinoplasty, forehead lift, chin augmentation, lip augmentation and scar revision, increased in cost from 2009, which may be one reason why people opted for less invasive surgeries, according to AAFPRS. In addition, surgeons reported performing fewer lip augmentations, hair transplants and collagen/cosmoderm/cosmoplast procedures in 2010. More info: www.aafprs.org
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Hair Conditioners
Customer Loyalty in the Cosmetics Market • For the brands tracked in the cosmetics category of the 15th annual Brand Keys Customer Loyalty Engagement Index (CLEI) survey, attributes relating to “experience” and “authentic innovation” in products and services are exerting the strongest impact on customer decision-making, category-expectations and engagement with brands. According to the survey, conducted by New York-based brand and customer loyalty and engagement consultancy Brand Keys, brands in the cosmetics category that were best at creating
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May 2011
News Front
customer delight were Lancôme, Mary Kay, Elizabeth Arden, Clairol, L’Oréal, Aveda and Suave. “This evolution has been accelerating for some time. Brand value has increasingly been defined not through the narrow lens of price, but in terms of the total experience that consumers have when they interact with a given brand. This year’s results
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demonstrate that concept has truly taken hold, showing its greatest increase in expectations in the purchase drivers centered on attributes that most strongly impact the customers’ overall experience,” noted Robert Passikoff, Brand Keys founder and president. “The CLEI data is predictive of coming shifts in the consumer marketplace—12 to 18 months before it shows up in traditional research. Given the levels of commoditization we’ve witnessed in product/service delivery and pricing/promotion strategies, it is no surprise consumers are looking for their favorite brands to make a real difference. Consumers know the brands, know what they do, and know what they’re willing to pay for them,” noted Passikoff. “They’re looking for delight.” According to Passikoff, innovation is key, whether it’s innovation in the products themselves, or innovation in how those products are put into the hands of consumers—from rapid delivery to product introductions—and the after-life of service and support that the consumer experiences. “And, consumers want meaningful innovation that results in a higher level of experience. Satisfaction has never been more cost-of-entry; delight is the new differentiator,” Passikoff said. This year, consumers’ skyrocketing desire for experience and authentic innovation are exerting the strongest impact on customer decision-making and profitable engagement with the brand. Brands able to meet— even exceed—these expectations become category leaders. “This only matters, of course, if you’re keeping score by counting sales and profits, and not merely tracking awareness levels,” noted Passikoff. “At a time when cosmetic brands are struggling to differentiate themselves and find ways to profitably engage their customers, the changes this year serve as a real benchmark for marketers. Products and services that respond with a truly consumercentric view of their category—delighting the customer—based on predictive loyalty metrics, stand to gain the most, and establish themselves as this decade’s brand leaders,” he concluded. More info: www.brandkeys.com/awards •
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"
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NATURALS • SUN CARE • PRESERVATION
innovating possibility ™
Formulary
MOISTURIZING SHAMPOO FOR ETHNIC HAIR Glenn Corporation, a member of The DeWolf Companies (888) 453-6267 • Fax: (651) 221-2406 Email:
[email protected] • www.glenncorp.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Deionized water q.s. 100 Phase B Miracare SLB-365 (Rhodia) (Water, sodium trideceth 40.00 sulfate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, cocamide MEA) Phase C Snow White petrolatum (Penreco) (Petrolatum) 15.00 Phase D Jaguar C-17 (Rhodia) (Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) 0.4 Phase E Meadowfoam seed oil (Natural Plant Products) 2.00 (Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil) Phase F Citric acid (50%) q.s. pH 5.0-5.5 Phase G Preservative q.s. Phase H Sodium chloride (20%) 15.00 Phase I BHT (Eastman) (BHT) 0.05 Phase J Fragrance q.s. PROCEDURE: To prepare such a formula, low rpm mixing (typically 150 rpm) is recommended in order to properly structure the system and minimize air entrapment. Also, the agitation system has to be chosen carefully so that to ensure good recirculation of the product. The use of paddle stirrers, impellers or anchors is recommended. The blending procedure is the following (the mixing rate is set at 150 rpm except otherwise specified). Charge Product formulas are supplied by producers of raw materials. Included in some instances are sources of supply for the raw materials and instructions for preparation and use of the finished product. No guarantee of performance or safety is implied by HAPPI. For more complete details, readers should contact the suppliers directly using the telephone number or website provided with each formula. If your company has a formula that you think would be of interest to readers of HAPPI, marketers of soaps and detergents; cosmetics and toiletries; fragrances; waxes and polishes; disinfectants and sanitizers and other chemical specialties, we will be pleased to consider it for publication. Address all material to: Formulary Editor, HAPPI, 70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA; Email:
[email protected].
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phase A into main vessel and begin mixing. Charge phase B and mix with phase A until uniform (about 15 min). Begin heating phase A and B batch to 50-55°C. In a separate vessel, melt phase C to 50-55°C. Once both the phase A/B and phase C vessels are at the same temperature, add melted phase C to the main vessel with increased mixing speed. Mix and heat at temperature until uniform for 10-15 minutes. Then, discontinue heating. In a separate vessel, premix phase D into phase E. Once phase D is fully dispersed, add to the main batch and mix until uniform. At 45°C or below, add phase F to the main vessel to adjust pH of the system to 5.0–5.5. Add phase G and mix until uniform. Charge phase H into main vessel and mix until uniform (about 30-45 min). Premix phase I into phase J, and once dissolved, add to main batch and mix until uniform.
O/W Caring Body Lotion Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH +49 201 173-2854 • Fax: +49 201 173-1828 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.evonik.com/personal-care INGREDIENTS Phase A Tegin 4100 pellets (Glyceryl stearate) Stearic acid Tegosoft OP (Ethylhexyl palmitate) Tegosoft P (Isopropyl palmitate) Tegosoft DC (Decyl cocoate) Tegosoft CR (Cetyl ricinoleate) Phase B Water Tego Care CG 90 (Cetearyl glucoside) Tego carbomer 141 G Glycerin Panthenol Phase C Sodium hydroxide (10% in water) Phase D Alcohol Phase Z Preservative, perfume
WT% 0.50 0.50 5.00 6.00 3.00 2.00 74.30 1.00 0.20 2.00 0.50 q.s. 5.00 q.s.
PROCEDURE: Combine ingredients of phase B and heat to approximately 80°C. Homogenize in order to dissolve the Tego Carbomer 141 G. Heat phase A to approx. 80°C. Add phase A to phase B with stirring. Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be added without stirring. Homogenize. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase C and D below 40°C.
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5
250
500
750
1000
Formulary
Balsam Type Hair Lotion Rinse Independent Chemical Corporation 718-894-0700 • Fax: 718-894-9224 Website: www.independentchemical.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Xalifin-15 (Vevy) Tridecyl salicylate Ginger oil and cinnamon oil Phase B Xalidrene (Vevy) Laurene (Vevy) Deionized water Hydroxyethylcellulose Auxina Tricogena (Vevy) Phase C Fragrance
WT% 3.0 2.0 0.5 1.0 1.0 86.5 0.5 5.0 0.5
PROCEDURE: Phase B—Add Auxina Tricogena to 100ml of water and mix well. Add the hydroxyethylcellulose while homogenizing until complete dispersion. Heat the Xalidrene and the Laurene with the remaining water to 65°C. Heat the ingredients of phase A to 70°C and add phase A to phase B under vacuum and homogenize for 10 minutes. Cool under vacuum and add phase C at 50°C. Stop homogenizer at 40°C. De-aerate at 30°C. Cool by continuing mixing. The pH is 2.8.
Long Lasting Fragrant Body Lotion Arizona Chemical Tel: 904-928-8884 • Fax: 904-928-8779 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.arizonachemical.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Water Carbopol Ultrez 21 (Lubrizol) (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) Disodium EDTA TEA 99% (Triethanolamine) Phase B Emersol 7036 (Croda) (Stearic acid) Cithrol GMS-40 (Croda) (Glyceryl stearate) Benzyl alcohol Propylene glycol Finsolv TN (Innospec) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate) DC 200 350 cSt (Dow Corning) (Dimethicone) Tocomix L70-IP (Jan Dekker) (Tocopherol, helianthus annuus seed oil) Aloe Oil Extract (Essential Wholesale) (Aloe barbadensis leaf extract) Black Mulberry Leaf Extract (Alban Muller) (Morus nigra leaf extract) 24 • happi
WT% 72.20 0.25 0.05 1.00 2.00 2.00 0.50 3.00 2.00 4.00 0.20 0.20 0.30
Sylvaclear C75V (Arizona Chemical) (Bis-stearyl ethylenediame/neopentyl glycol/stearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer) Pelemol IN-2 (Phoenix Chemical) (Isononyl isononanoate) Liponate GC (Lipo Chemical) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride) Phase C Fragrance Phase D Phenonip (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol, propylparaben, methylparaben, isobutylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben)
4.00
2.00 3.00 3.00 0.30
PROCEDURE: Phase A—Disperse/hydrate Carbopol Ultrez 21 in water phase, mixing until uniform (~20 minutes). Add remaining phase A raw materials and heat to 70-80°C. Phase B—Mix all phase B ingredients and heat to 85°C, mixing until homogeneous. Cool to 70-75°C. Add phase B to phase A. Cool to 60°C while mixing. Phase C—Switch to sweep agitation and cool to RT. Add phase C. Phase D—Add phase D. PROPERTIES:Viscosity—Spindle 5 @ 20rpm/20°C/1min: 15,000-18,000cps; pH—7.0-8.0; Stability—2 months at RT & 45°C. Passes freeze-thaw stability (3 cycles); Fragrance—Egyptian Sandalwood, Wellington Fragrances.
Sun Lotion SPF 25 Bayer MaterialScience AG Leverkusen, Germany Email:
[email protected] Website: www.bayercosmetics.com INGREDIENTS Oil Phase Polyglyceryl-3 methyglucose distearate Isopropyl palmitate Abil 350 (Evonik) (Dimethicone) Octocrylene Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane Eusolex T-Avo (Merck) (Titanium dioxide (and) silica) Water Phase Water Disodium EDTA (10% solution in water) Glycerin Thickener Phase C12-15 alkyl benzoate Ketrol CG-T (CP Kelco) (Xanthan gum) Alcohol Ethanol Film Former Baycusan C 1000 (Bayer MaterialScience) Preservative Phase Euxyl PE 9010 (Schülke & Mayr) (Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin) Euxyl K220 (Schülke & Mayr) (Ethylhexylglycerin (and) methylisothiazoline)
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WT% 2.00 3.00 3.00 10.00 2.00 1.00 61.57 1.00 5.00 2.00 0.20 3.00 5.00 1.10 0.13
May 2011
©2011 Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc. All product names shown here are registered trademarks of Ajinomoto Co., Inc.
Formulary
PROCEDURE: The water phase is heated to 80°C under stirring in a separate vessel, the oil phase is mixed while heating to 80°C. When the phases are uniform, the oil phase is added to the water phase under continuous mixing. The emulsion is homogenized. The thickener phase is added to the emulsion. At 25°C, ethanol, Baycusan C 1000 and the preservative phase are added and mixed. The emulsion is homogenized. PROPERTIES: In vitro SPF = 14; In vivo SPF (international test method on 5 volunteers)—29.6; Stability—this formulation successfully passed the microbiological challenge test.
Clear Conditioning Rinse Primex www.primex.is INGREDIENTS Phase A Chitosan PCA Olealkonium chloride (55% aqueous) Water Perfume and preservative
WT% 1.00 3.64 95.36 q.s.
PROCEDURE: Disperse Chitosan PCA in water with high speed agitation. When completely dispersed, heat to 75°C with continued mixing until solution is clear and uniform. Add olealkonium chlo-
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ride and mix until uniform. Dissolve preservative into batch. Cool to room temperature.
Protective Foundation SF 1229/E Gattefossé USA 201-265-4800 • Fax: 201-265-4853 Website: www.gattefosse.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Plurol Diisostearique CG 4.00 (Gattefosse) (Polyglyceryl-3- Diisostearate) Hydracire S (Gattefosse) 2.00 (Acacia decurrens/jojoba/sunflower seed wax/polyglyceryl-3-esters) Compritol 888 CG Pellets (Gattefosse) (Glyceryl behenate) 1.00 Hydrogenated castor oil 1.00 Preservative 1.00 Phase B MOD (Gattefosse) (Octyldodecyl myristate) 6.00 Rheocin (Rockwood Additives) (Trihydroxystearin) 1.00 Phase C Vegetable squalane 14.00 Unipure White LC 981 HLC (LCW/Sensient) 6.95
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Formulary
(Titanium dioxide (CI 77891)) Unipure Yellow LC 182 HLC (LCW/Sensient) 1.00 (Iron oxides (CI 77492)) Unipure Red LC 381 HLC (LCW/Sensient) 0.30 (Iron oxides (CI 77491)) Natpure Hollowbead (LCW/Sensient) 2.00 (Calcium aluminium borosilicate) Talc HLC (LCW/Sensient) (Talc) 2.00 Phase D Demineralized water 49.95 Glycerin 5.00 Magnesium sulfate 7H2O, Codex (Merck) 1.00 (Magnesium sulfate) Sodium chloride, Codex (Sodium chloride) 1.00 Phase E Malt Secrets (Gattefosse) 0.50 (Propanediol (and) water (and) hordeum vulgare seed extract) Perfume Supreme Teint ARX/31619 (Aromax) 0.30 PROCEDURE: Prepare phase A and heat to 85°C. Prepare phase B, under rapid mixing add Rheocin and mix for 10 min. Heat at 40°C (don’t overheat). Under moderate mixing, add phase B into phase A. Mix under ultra-turrax for 5 min. Add phase C into A+B then heat to 80°C. Prepare D and heat to 80°C. Add slowly phase D into phase A+B+C and increase speed to 3000 tr/min. Maintain rapid mixing for about 5 min. Cool under mixing and about 35°C, add phase E. Complete cooling. PROPERTIES: Appearance— Pinkish beige cream; Viscosity Brookfield (spindle C speed 5)—approx. 100,000 mPa.s after 24H.
Antibacterial Moisturizing Hand Soap Rhodia 888-776-7337, 215-781-6364 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.rhodia.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Water q.s. to 100 Jaguar C-17(Rhodia) (Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) 0.5 Miracare SLB-365/N (Rhodia) 40.0 (Water, sodium trideceth sulfate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, cocamide MEA) Lubrirob TOD 1880 (Lonza) (Sunflower oil, high oleic) 10.0 Lonzagard USP benzethonium chloride (Lonza) 0.10 Ional CP (BHT) 0.05 Fragrance q.s. Neolone 950 (Rohm & Haas) (Methylisothiazolinone) 0.1 Sodium chloride 3.0 Citric acid, 50% pH Adjust 1.0 PROCEDURE: Charge water to vessel. Charge Lonzagard and mix until dispersed. Charge NaOH to ensure pH is >7.0 while mix28 • happi
ing at 150rpm. Slowly sift in Jaguar C-17 and mix until uniform. Charge Miracare SLB-365 and mix until uniform. In separate vessel, blend Lubrirob TOD 1880, BHT, and fragrance until uniform. Increase mixing to 300 rpm. Charge the pre mix with oil, BHT and fragrance. When oil is emulsified, lower mixing speed to 150rpm and mix for 15 minutes. Charge sodium chloride and mix until uniform (~30 minutes). Adjust pH to 4.7-5.3 with 50%. PROPERTIES: Appearance—white “lotion like” liquid; Brookfield Viscosity at 25°C—10,000-16,000 cps (LVT, spindle 3, 12 rpm); pH @25°C— 4.5-5.0; Solids,%—28.5-31.5; Storage-Stability—Stable for 3 months (25°C, 45°C , 4°C) 3 cycles of freeze/thaw.
Broad Spectrum SPF ~55, PFA ~22 Sunscreen The HallStar Company
(877) 427-4255, (312) 385-4494
Email:
[email protected] Website: www.hallstar.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Deionized water (aqua) 46.12 Phase B Versene NA (Dow Chemical) (Disodium EDTA) 0.10 Phase C Rhodicare XC (Rhodia Novecare) (Xanthan gum) 0.20 Phase D Diocide (Centerchem) (Caprylyl glycol (and) 0.50 phenoxyethanol (and) hexylene glycol) Superol K, Glycerine 99.7% USP/FCC Kosher 2.00 (P&G Chemicals) (Glycerin) 1,3-Butylene Glycol (Argo) (Butylene glycol) 2.00 Phase E Spectrasolv DMDA (HallStar) (Dimethyl capramide) 1.00 Parsol HMS (DSM Nutritional Products) 10.00 (Homosalate [Homosalate]) Neo Heliopan OS (Symrise) (Ethylhexyl salicylate 5.00 [Octisalate]) Neo Heliopan 303 (Symrise) (Octocrylene [Octocrylene]) 2.75 HallBrite PSF (HallStar) (Undecylcrylene dimethicone) 3.00 HallTress DIBA Special (HallStar) (Diisobutyl adipate) 8.00 Phase F Parsol 1789 (DSM Nutritional) 3.00 (Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone]) Neo Heliopan BB (Symrise) (Benzophenone-3 6.00 [Oxybenzone]) Phase G Crill 6/Span 120 (Croda) (Sorbitan isostearate) 0.30 HallStar GMS SE/AS (HallStar) 2.50 (Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate) Emulsiphos (Symrise) (Potassium cetyl phosphate (and) 3.00 hydrogenated palm glycerides) Ganex V-220 (ISP) (VP/eicosene copolymer) 1.00
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Formulary
Phase H Simulgel 600 (Seppic) 1.53 (Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) isohexadecane (and) polysorbate 80) Phase I MSS-500W (Kobo Products) (Silica) 2.00 PROCEDURE: Add phase A to the main vessel. Dissolve phase B with continued mixing. Add phase C, stirring until fully incorporated. Start heating to 85°C and add premix of phase D. To a secondary vessel, add phase E. Start mixing and add phase F. Heat to 85°C, and then add phase phase G ingredients, in order. With both phases at 85°C, slowly add the oil phase (EFG) to the water phase (ABCD) with prop mixing. Start homogenizing and cooling. When the batch reaches 55°C, start sweep mixing and continue cooling. At 50°C or lower, add phase H with mixing. When batch is smooth, add I with mixing and replace any water lost to evaporation. Mix until again smooth and at desired filling temperature. Stop cooling and mixing, perform final quality assurance checks and package product. PROPERTIES: Appearance—Thick white lotion/soft cream; pH—6.0; Viscosity (RV, T-D, 5, 20 & 100 rpm; cP)—81000, 24900 and 6800.
Antioxidant Skin Cream Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc.
(Noveon Consumer Specialties)
(216) 447-5000 • www.personalcare.noveon.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Deionized water 79.05 Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer (Carbomer) (Lubrizol/Noveon) 0.10 Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer (Lubrizol/Noveon) 0.35 (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) Glycerin 4.00 Phase B Sweet Almond Oil (Lipo) 3.00 (Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil) Vitamin E acetate (BASF) 1.00 Vitamin A palmitate (BASF) (Retinyl palmitate) 0.50 Schercemol DISD Ester (Lubrzol/Noveon) 5.00 (Diisostearyl dimer dilinoeate) Schercemol NGDO Ester (Lubrizol/Noveon) 2.00 (Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate) Schercemol PDD Ester (Lubrizol/Noveon) 0.50 (Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate) Promulgen D nonionic emulsifier (Lubrizol/Noveon) 1.20 (Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20) SilSense DW-18 Silicone (Lubrizol/Noveon) 0.80 (Dimethicone PEG-7 isostearate) Micropoly 250 S (Micro Powders) (Polyethylene) 0.25 Phase C Sodium hydroxide (18%) 0.55 30 • happi
Phase D Actiphyte of Mandarin Orange (Active Organics) (Citrus nobilis (mandarin orange) fruit extract, butylene glycol (and) water) HerbEx Resveratrol 0.5 (BioSpectrum) (Resveratrol) Perenityl IS (ISP/Vincience) (Pyrus communis (pear) seed extract (and) hexyldecanol) Glydant Plus Liquid (Lonza) (DMDM hydantoin (and) iodopropynyl butyl carbamate)
0.50
0.50 0.40 0.30
PROCEDURE: Add phase A ingredients in order to a suitable vessel, allowing the self-wetting polymers to wet prior to mixing. Begin to heat to 65-70°C. In a separate vessel, add phase B ingredients and heat to 65-70°C with mixing. Mix until uniform. Once to temperature, add phase B to phase A with continued mixing. Mix until uniform. While hot, add phase C to phases A/B with continued mixing. Mix until uniform. When homogenous, begin to cool below 40°C. Once to temperature, add phase D ingredients to batch one at a time with continuous mixing. Mix until uniform. PROPERTIES: Appearance—white cream; pH— 6.1-6.3; Viscosity (mPas•s) (Brookfield RVT @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #6 spindle, measured @ 24 hours)—30,000-40,000. Recommended packaging—jar. Stability—Passed 12 weeks @45°C, 5 cycles freeze/thaw
Aftershave Balm Cognis GmbH Care Chemicals Division Website: www.cognis.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Dehyquart F 75 (Cognis) 0.25 (Distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol) Myritol 331 (Cognis) (Cocoglycerides) 2.50 Cetiol C 5 (Cognis) (Coco-caprylate) 5.00 Cetoil SB 45 (Cognis) (Butyrospermum parkii 0.20 (shea) butter) Cegesoft PS 6 (Cognis) (Vegetable oil) 2.00 Cosmedia Triple C (Cognis) 1.00 (Polyquaternium-37 (and) dicaprylyl carbonate (and) lauryl glucoside) Water, demin. 86.05 Glycerin 3.00 Perfume, preservative q.s. PROCEDURE: Heat phase I. Heat water of phase II, add the glycerin and Cosmedia Triple C while stirring. Wait until gel is built. Afterwards add phase I while stirring. Stir until 40°C, than add phase III. Adjust the pH if necessary. Stop stirring at 30°C. PROPERTIES— pH-value (as is) 4.9-5.1; Viscosity (Brookfield RVF, 23 °C, spindle 5, 10 rpm)—13,000 mPa•s •
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May 2011
Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs/Switzerland, Phone +41 (0)62 836 17 31
PhytoCellTec™ Argan Vitalizing dermal stem cell for fundamental anti-aging effectiveness PhytoCellTec™ Argan is the very first cosmetic active to target DERMAL stem cells. These cells have been discovered to play the key role in the beauty, firmness and density of skin. PhytoCellTec™ Argan vitalizes and protects these most valuable cells, enabling them to maintain their regenerating potential to reinforce youthfulness. • Protects and vitalizes dermal stem cells • Reactivates all of the skin’s youthful functions • Fights wrinkles and loss of firmness right at their formation
PhytoCellTec™ Argan will not only help to accelerate the skin’s natural repair process, but also uniquely provide a second chance for every type of skin.
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
International
L’ORÉAL INAUGURATES PREDICTIVE EVALUATION CENTER • FRANCE: The L’Oréal Group has inaugurated the L’Oréal Predictive Evaluation Center, a research and production center dedicated to the predictive evaluation of the safety and efficacy of its cosmetics ingredients and finished products. Based on 30 years of research and investment, it crystallizes L’Oréal’s vision of the future of evaluation, the company explained. At the inauguration of the center last month in Gerland, L’Oréal Group president and CEO Jean-Paul Agon commented,“As the worldwide beauty leader, L’Oréal aims to remain a pioneer in the technological advancement of evaluation and innovation, and also aims to be an exemplary socially responsible company. The L’Oréal Predictive Evaluation Center is an illustration of the group’s commitment to ethical, innovative and responsible beauty, which has always been at the core of our mission.” In order to predict safety and efficacy of ingredients and finished products at an earlier stage and with greater certainty, the L’Oréal Predictive Evaluation Center designs integrated and innovation-driven evaluation strategies as a result of its vast knowledge base and its expertise in technologies such as tissue engineering, molecule design, imaging, modeling and automated test platforms. The center is spearheading the group’s predictive evaluation research and is the result of a 16 million euro investment: 7 million euros in 2000 and 9 million euros in 2010. It currently produces more than 130,000 reconstructed biological skin and corneal tissue units a year. In 2011, the Gerland Center will have capacity to evaluate more than 1000 products for safety (formulae or raw materials) and 100 ingredients for efficacy. The L’Oréal Predictive Evaluation Center will be the center of an international hub connecting L’Oréal’s French, Chinese and Singaporean Research & Innovation activities. As the center of the network, it 32 • happi
will develop the L’Oréal Group’s integrated predictive strategy, while incorporating information from the group’s other international Research & Innovation centers, the company said. According to L’Oréal, this hub embodies a radical shift in approach—it represents a technological and scientific leap forward from alternative methods to predictive strategies. “The mark of strong research is its ability to anticipate. The L’Oréal Predictive Evaluation Center is a demonstration of L’Oréal’s Research and Innovation ambitions. It will lead to the discovery of new forms of efficacy and new levels of performance, paving the way for breakthrough innovations,” commented Laurent Attal, vice president of research and innovation.
Evonik To Build Plant In Shanghai CHINA: Evonik is building an integrated production plant for organic specialty surfactants at its site in Shanghai, China. The production network is scheduled to begin operation in mid-2013, the company announced. The various specialty surfactants based on renewable raw materials will be used primarily for cosmetics and laundry care products, as well as for industrial applications. “Construction of the integrated production plant based on renewable raw materials in Shanghai represents a key step in the further consolidation of Evonik’s global presence. With the new plant, Evonik is supporting the growth of its key customers in Asia with local production,” said Patrik Wohlhauser, chairman of the board of management of Evonik Degussa GmbH and member of the executive board of Evonik Industries responsible for the Consumer, Health and Nutrition segment. By building the plant at the Shanghai site, Evonik said it will benefit from the infrastructure of the large Shanghai Chem-
•
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ical Industry Park (SCIP) and close proximity to its customers’ production facilities. The integrated production network will feature state-of-the-art technology and meet correspondingly high environmental standards. Last fall, in its most recent project at SCIP, Evonik commissioned a plant for the production of plastics and plastics ingredients— a 250-million-euro investment for the group. The new integrated production plant will produce ingredients for cosmetics and laundry care products, as well as specialty surfactants for industrial applications. The Chinese cosmetics industry accounts for the lion’s share of production. “We are already well-positioned in the market for cosmetic ingredients in Europe and the U.S.,” added Claus Rettig, head of the Consumer Specialties Business Unit. “Now we are following our customers to Asia, with state-of-the-art technology and correspondingly high-quality ingredients. This allows us to supply our customers at the accustomed high level of quality.”
In-Cosmetics’ Attendance Nears 7,000 • ITALY: At 10,987 square meters, In-Cosmetics 2011 in Milan set a new record in terms of physical size. Attendance was big as well, with 6,850 professionals sourcing the newest products and latest developments from the world’s cosmetics and personal care industry. A third of attendees came from Italy, the host country. In addition to multinational suppliers who make it an annual event, In-Cosmetics provided a platform for more than 70 first-time exhibitors looking to launch their products to the high caliber visitors in attendance. The Innovation Zone brought together 70 ingredients launched at the show or in the previous six months. The new Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award saw a selected number of exhibitors go head to head with their new innovations, judged by May 2011
International
an independent panel of experts. In the end, Lipo Chemicals beat out stiff competition to win with its unique Liposhield HEV Melanin technology. The In-Focus feature explored the challenges in the development of sustainable cosmetics, from new concepts to sourcing, formulation, industrial processes and packaging while the new Sustainability Gallery highlighted 12 sustainable innovations, ini-
tiatives or policies developed by leading suppliers in the industry. The regulatory and innovation seminars, marketing trend presentations and formulation workshops were filled with manufacturers and suppliers looking to equip themselves with the latest industry information. A new addition to the program was the scientific seminars that included nanotechnology, biotechnology and skin aging.
Winners gather together at the PCD Awards.
PCD 2011 Award Winners • FRANCE: The 7th edition of the PCD Congress-Exhibition, held Feb. 8-9 at the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, Paris, closed with the PCD Awards ceremony. During the event, 12 prizes were awarded before an audience of enthusiastic professionals. To enter the competition, products had to be placed on the European market between Dec. 1, 2009 and Dec. 31, 2010; winners were selected by a jury of journalists and packaging experts. This year, major technological innovations and new forms of handling were highlighted. THE PCD 2011 AWARD WINNERS: • Bleu Shower Gel, Chanel – Care Category. The flip top was manufactured by SAF. Pinard created the bottle. The case and wavy pattern come from Wauters/Nicollet. • Terracotta 4 Seasons Powder, Guerlain – Makeup Category. Albéa was the supplier. • Wanted Rouge Lipstick, Helena Rubinstein – Makeup Category. Cosfibel was one of the suppliers. • Lash Queen Sexy Blacks Mascara, Helena Rubinstein – Makeup Category. • Voyage d’Hermès Perfume – Men’s and Unisex Perfume Category. Suppliers/partners included SGD and Verreries Pochet et du Courval (glass), Pivaudran (drawing), Ipack (injection and assembly) and CNP Vaudreil (packaging). • Fleur de cristal Perfume, Lalique – Women’s Perfume Category. Suppliers included Pochet (glass), VPI (surlyn shoulder segment), Rexam (pump) and Cartondruck (cardboard). • L’air du Temps Perfume, Nina Ricci – Collector Category. The hand-blown Lalique was specially created for the 60th anniversary of Nina Ricci’s debut. Suppliers included C Group/LF Beauty (lacquer wood box), ECR1 (protection box) and Lalique. Oriex Communication organizes the PCD Congress-Exhibition and PCD Awards.
More info: www.pcd-congress.com 34 • happi
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The event was also a hub of networking activity, and not just at the exhibitor stands and seminar theatres, said the organizer. The online community tool Connect launched this year enabled visitors and exhibitors to communicate pre-show and arrange meetings. Live Twitter feeds broadcast at different locations across the show floor, provided the perfect platform for companies and individuals to instantly publicize their show activities. “The wide range of educational features and exhibitors, not to mention the thousands of visitors who descended on Milan, have really placed us once again at the forefront of the personal care ingredients market,” said Cathy Laporte, In-Cosmetics group marketing manager. “With the cosmetics and beauty industry expected to grow 8.5% by 2014, the show looks set to be a hit once again next year.” In-Cosmetics 2012 will take place on April 17-19 in Barcelona, Spain in Hall 2, Gran Via, Fira Barcelona. More info: www.in-cosmetics.com
Seppic Sets Up Shop in Dubai • UNITED ARAB EMIRATES: To strengthen its development in the Near and Middle East, Seppic has opened an office in Dubai. Air Liquide is the parent company of Seppic. Experts in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics sectors staff the new office, the company said. From this local, the company will focus on a wide geographical area stretching from Egypt to Pakistan. The goal is to double sales revenues in the region within five years, according to Seppic. “The markets in the Middle East are varied and all have their own distinctive local features. But they share a common economic dynamic and a strong business ethic,”said Vincent Ganne, head of Seppic’s health and beauty BU and the person in charge of the Dubai subsidiary.“Seppic has the products and expertise to help these markets develop. With our local presence, we will be better placed to understand and serve these specific needs. And we will be better able to build close and lasting ties with our customers. More info: www.airliquide.com May 2011
COLOR COSMETICS
SUNCARE
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P O LY U R E T H A N E S F O R C O S M E T I C S
Bayer MaterialScience AG, 51368 Leverkusen, Germany · 49800
HAIRSTYLING
International
Amway Donates $1.2 Million To Earthquake Victims • JAPAN: Amway Japan President John Parker announced that Amway Japan Limited and parent company Amway will provide 100 million yen, or approximately $1.2 million, in cash and product donations to
support relief efforts in Japan following the March 11 earthquake and tsunami. The corporation, its distributors and employees will provide the support in partnership with local NPOs and relief agencies in the region, especially those which focus on children, in alignment
Finally, A Partnership That Gives You Reason To Smile
We know how it is. Youʼre looking for the right fit, a supplier thatʼs easy to work with, flexible. A company that knows how to give you what you need, when you need it. One that listens, responds, problem-solves. You wonder…is that too much to ask? Then you work with Ruger, and realize youʼve found The One. You start to think about the possibilities, resolving issues, reducing risk, all the exciting things you can accomplish together. Suddenly everything seems clear, and you know that youʼll never work alone again. Ingredient Sales • Repackaging • QC • Documentation
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36 • happi
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with the company’s Amway One by One Campaign for Children. “We express our profound sympathies to all victims of this indescribable disaster, and will continue to provide additional assistance through disaster relief efforts as we learn the status and needs of the affected areas,” said Parker. “Our heartfelt prayers go out to our families, friends and neighbors who have been impacted by this tragedy. We are grateful for the well wishes of people around the world, and appreciate their generous offers of help and encouragement to ensure the country’s recovery and rebuilding efforts.” Amway has confirmed employees, expatriates and business visitors are safe, and continues to work to ascertain the status of distributors and their families in Japan. “Wherever we do business, Amway affirms our commitment to respond to events that have such a profound impact on daily lives,” said Amway Executive Vice President Jim Payne. “Amway has activated its global network for Japan. We are providing a mechanism for our employees and distributors to engage and provide help, and will continue to do so as the effort continues.” Launched in 1979, Amway Japan is one of the company’s top markets, and employs nearly 400 people to support its affiliate operations, including business administration, sales support and distribution, according to the firm.
Shiseido Makes Second Donation of Relief Supplies • JAPAN: To make further donations to assist people living in the disaster-stricken areas of Japan, Shiseido Co. made a second donation of relief supplies to the Headquarters for Emergency Disaster Response in Iwate, Miyagi and Fukushima prefectures. The donation, which included dry shampoo, hand cream and masks, followed an earlier monetary donation of more than $1.1 million made via Japan Platform, a non-profit humanitarian aid organization. In addition, the firm has been collecting voluntary donations from current and former employees through the Shiseido Social Contribution Club Hanatsubaki Fund. May 2011
euxyl® PE 9010 clear performance
t good efficacy against bacteria, yeast, and mold t globally approved (US, EU, Japan) t mild with low sensitization potential t no controversial ingredients t stable to hydrolysis, temperature and pH Let us make preservation simple for you. Go to schulke-us.com/happiad0511 for more.
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Shiseido executives estimate that the 200 to 300 stores destroyed by last month’s tsunami comprise no more than about 1% of Shiseido’s total sales points in Japan. Still, the disaster will translate into 3 billion yen, or $35.7 million, in lost sales and 1.5 billion yen, or $17.9 million, in extraordinary losses for the company for the fiscal year concluded March 31, 2011. The company will announce results this month, but sales are now seen coming in at 670 billion yen, or $7.97 billion, from a previous target of 680 billion yen, or $8.09 billion. It marks the second time in four months that Shiseido has cut its earning and sales forecasts as conditions in its home market of Japan continue to deteriorate and consumers spend less on beauty products.
IRB Wins Italian Business Award ITALY: Istituto di Ricerche Bitecnologiche (IRB), an Italian biotech company
•
that developed and optimized the biotech platform High Tech Nature (HTNTM) based on GMO plant cell cultures, has won the Italian Business Awards for the Environment. Through the HTNTM process, it is possible to manufacture, in strictly controlled conditions, high value plant active substances for cosmetic, nutritional and animal feed applications. The honor is one of the most prestigious recognitions presented to private and public Italian companies that have distinguished themselves in sustainable development, environmental respect and social responsibility. The winners will also compete for the European Business Awards for the Environment, which were established by the European Commission Environment Directorate-General in 1987 to recognize and reward European companies that set an example by successfully bringing together innovation, economic viability and
environmental concerns. “We are particularly proud of this award since it rewards the truly singleminded and masterly work of a team of excellence,” said Elena Sgaravatti, IRB general manager. More info: www.irbtech.com
InterCharm Milano, iCMPack Coming in September • ITALY: There’s more reason to stick around Milan after InterCharm Milano. Following the professional beauty event that is InterCharm, which is scheduled for Sept. 24-26 2011, is a new event called iCMPack. According to event organizers, it is designed for those firms who work in the cosmetics packaging, raw materials, machinery, technology industries and contract manufacturing. iCMPack will be held Sept. 26-27 at the same venue as InterCharm Milano. More info: www.intercharm.it •
Visit the AMA Booth # 739 at NYSCC Suppliers Day
38 • happi
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May 2011
New from Cosmetochem Citrolumine 8TM increases skin luminosity f Liposomal-encapsulated citroflavonoids f Fades age spots f Brightens skin tone f Safe & effective (in vitro & in vivo) Winner of one of 'The China Personal Care & Cosmetics Innovation Awards 2011'
www.cosmetochem.com
Cosmetochem International AG, Switzerland phone +41 (0)41 748 3333, fax +41 (0)41 748 3344 www.cosmetochem.com,
[email protected]
Marketing News
JOHNSON PRODUCTS CO. SIGNS CARMELO ANTHONY Carmelo Anthony is now a frontman for Johnson Products Company.
clothing retailer will also carry Hampton Sun’s Luxe Sport Continuous Mist Collection in SPF15 and 55. More info: www.hamptonsuncare.com
• The first French model to achieve interna-
• NBA Star Carmelo Anthony has just inked a multi-year deal as the corporate spokesperson for Johnson Products Company, Inc. (JPC), promoting the company’s Ultra Sheen Men grooming collection. The partnership, the first of its kind for the new management team at JPC, is part of a strategic plan to regain its prominent global market share. In 2009, JPC was acquired from Procter & Gamble with the combined investments of RC Fontis, St. Cloud Capital and Plus Factor, LLC, an African American management team. In two years, the new leadership has reorganized the company and its worldwide distribution. “We are very excited to leverage the strong position in the ethnic hair care space that Johnson Products has to launch our new men’s line. Our team sees a lot of opportunity and growth in the men’s sector which doesn’t typically get a lot of attention,” explained JPC’s CEO Eric Brown. “Adding Carmelo Anthony to the Johnson Products Family as well as having him represent the Ultra Sheen Men brand to the community will certainly bring excitement to our new brand.” The deal includes advertising and promotional campaigns, cause marketing and community outreach programs as well as personal appearances for JPC and Ultra Sheen Men. Anthony will also be involved in the development of innovative new grooming products for JPC, according to the company. More info: www.johnsonproducts.com • Hampton Sun and J.Crew have partnered together on a SPF 30 lip balm that will be sold in select J. Crew stores this month. The 40 • happi
tional acclaim, Madame Ines de la Fressange, has joined the family of ambassadors for L’Oréal Paris. “Ines de la Fressange, our new L’Oréal Paris spokeswoman, has divine grace, that very contemporary way of being a woman, at once free, unexpected and mesmerizing. An accomplished model, mother and designer, she leads a full life. I am delighted that she is bringing that irresistible ‘je ne sais quoi’ to the brand,” said Cyril Chapuy, global brand president of L’Oréal Paris. De la Fressange started her modeling career when she was 17, and took part in fashion shows for Kenzo, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacroix, among others. She was also Karl Lagerfeld’s muse at Chanel for several years. In 1991 she created her own brand,“Ines de la Fressange,”and a store on the avenue Montaigne, which was very successful in France, the U.S. and Japan. Since 2003, she has made an active contribution to relaunch the luxury Roger Vivier brand as consultant and brand ambassador. In 2008, for her 50th birthday, she appeared on the cover of Elle France. More info: www.loreal.com
• Cheaper dish liquids clean just as well as their costlier coun-
terparts, according to Consumer Reports. Ajax and Kirkland Signature (Costco) were both very good at cleaning and cost just $0.06 per ounce, the least per ounce of the brands Consumer Reports tested, making them CR Best Buys. The full report is available in the May issue of Consumer Reports, which is available at newsstands and online. “Our tests show you don’t have to pay a lot to get your dishes clean,” said Jim Nanni, associate technical director for Consumer Reports. “All dish liquids contain surfactants, enzymes and other chemicals to aid in cleaning.” Consumer Reports’ testers baked a mixture of evaporated milk, flour, egg yolk and sugar onto glass plates, put the plates in trays of warm water with equal amounts of each detergent, and used a machine that holds a sponge to rub each plate with equal pressure. To test grease removal, testers dipped stainless-steel panels in
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May 2011
Marketing News
lard, let the fat congeal for at least an hour, then cleaned them using the same process as with the glass plates. In both cases, scores were based on the number of rubs it took to remove the soil. All of the products tested were very good at removing food and grease, but cost just a few cents per ounce while others cost up to $0.94 cent per ounce. The makers of DuoDish ($0.16/ounce) and The Laundress ($0.94/ounce) claim they can be used in the sink and the dishwasher. Makers of “green” brands claim they’re safe for septic tanks, have minimal impact on aquatic life, are free of fragrance and dyes, or are “natural” (but there’s no official definition of that term except on meat and poultry products), according to the report. Since all the tested products are recommended, Consumer Reports suggests consumers purchase dish liquid based on the price. Plus, the magazine suggests that consumers skip antibacterial cleaners, insisting that the government says they don’t clean any better, and they might lead to tougher bacteria—not exactly the kind of thing the industry, or its associations, wants to read about. More info: www.ConsumerReports.org
• The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has approved the registration of Clorox’s Dispatch Hospital Cleaner Disinfectant Towels with Bleach to kill Clostridium difficile spores in five minutes. This is the first bleach-based wipe to receive EPA registration for C. difficile. Dispatch towels with bleach clean and disinfect hard, nonporous surfaces quickly and effectively in just one step. The towels are pre-moistened with a unique 1:10 stable sodium hypochlorite (bleach) solution like the concentration that is recommended by the Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC) guidelines for effective disinfecting against the toughest healthcare pathogens, including C. difficile. The towels with bleach are EPA-registered to kill 26 additional pathogens that cause healthcare-associated infections (HAIs). They can be used on multiple surfaces in healthcare settings, including plastic, plastic laminate, stainless steel, sealed fiberglass and glazed porcelain. Clorox acquired Dispatch brands from Midland, MI-based Caltech Industries. In September 2010, the EPA registered Dispatch Hospital Cleaner Disinfectant with Bleach spray to kill C. difficile spores in five minutes. More info: www.cloroxprofessional.com
•
The USDA selected Purell Green Certified Instant Hand Sanitizer Foam as one of the first products in its new BioPreferred Label Program. The new USDA product label indicates products have been independently certified to meet USDA BioPreferred program standards for biobased content. Gojo is one of just 11 companies approved to use USDA’s new product label on certified biobased products. Purell Green Certified Instant Hand Sanitizer is produced by
42 • happi
Gojo Industries, and is made with 100% naturally renewable plantderived ethanol in a readily biodegradable formula. “We are extremely pleased to be among the first products to attain the USDA’s BioPreferred label,” said Gojo global sustainability senior marketing manager Nicole Koharik.“The distinction furthers our company’s sustainability efforts to promote hand hygiene for the well-being of people and the environment.” More info: www.gojo.com
• SheaMoisture has partnered with Walgreens to launch a line of hair care products. The SheaMoisture hair care line—shampoos, conditioners and styling aids—is rolling out at more than 7,000 Walgreens stores and online at the retailer’s website. “We are very excited to launch our newest collection at Walgreens,” said Richelieu Dennis, founder and CEO of Sundial Creations, maker of SheaMoisture. “They have been a key partner in the growth of our business and we are enthusiastic about bringing organic hair care products to such a broad consumer base.” The range is available in four varieties—Raw Shea & Argan Oil, Coconut & Hibiscus, Yucca and Baobab and African Black Soap. The launch also includes two new hair kits, the Curl & Shine Kit and the Repair & Transition Kit, which contain travel sized versions of the Coconut & Hibiscus and Raw Shea hair collection. There are several programs in place to support the launch, including a beauty advisor based program, a social networking strategy, store level sampling as well as demo stations, according to Sundial Creations. “There has been a tremendous amount of anticipation for this launch in our social networking communities for months,” said Emmet Dennis, Sundial Creations partner and chief marketing officer.“This phenomenon is a testimony to the convenience of shopping at Walgreens and the loyalty that our customers have shown us for almost 20 years.” More info: www.sheamoisture.com • SK-II is rolling out the SK-II Clear for Life project with the goal of connecting women in need across Asia to a source of clear drinking water, so that they in turn can help empower their communities. The project was inspired by SK-II global ambassador Cate Blanchett’s donation of 3 million liters of clear, purified drinking water to Asian communities in honor of SK-II’s 30th anniversary. For its inaugural year, the SK-II Clear for Life project has pledged a donation of 30 million liters of water through a partnership with Procter & Gamble’s Children’s Safe Drinking Water (CSDW) Program. U.S. consumers can contribute to the cause by visiting the SKII Clear for Life website and clicking to“Share The Word.”For every “click to share” on social media websites, SK-II will donate 1 liter of water to communities in need. “The goal of all our cause efforts is to bring the transformative power of a crystal clear life, one filled with hope, harmony and op-
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May 2011
Thanks for 100 years of inspiration! As we celebrate our big anniversary, we thank all the rebels and visionaries who inspired us along the way. Wilbur and 0rville Wright (1867/1871) * Albert Einstein (1879) * Coco Chanel (1883) * Frank Lloyd Wright (1890) Walt Disney (1901) * Salvador Dali (1904) * Josephine Baker (1906) * Edith Piaf (1915) * J.D. Salinger (1919) Marlon Brando (1924) * Marilyn Monroe (1926) * Andy Warhol (1928) * Stanley Kubrick (1928) * Frank 0. Gehry (1929) Steve McQueen (1930) * James Dean (1931) * Sophia Loren (1934) * Yves Saint Laurent (1936) * Bruce Lee (1940) Pele (1940) * Vivienne Westwood (1941) * Bob Dylan (1941) * Jimi Hendrix (1942) * Muhammad Ali (1942) * Lou Reed (1942) Jim Morrison (1943) * Bob Marley (1945) * David Bowie (1947) * Twiggy (1949) * Richard Branson (1950) Jean-Paul Gaultier (1952) * Steve Jobs (1955) * The Beatles * (1957) * Madonna (1958) * The Mini Cooper (1959) The Rolling Stones (1962) * Ferran Adria (1962) * Quentin Tarantino (1963) * The Clash (1976) * Nirvana (1987) @@
You all challenged the status quo, fought the conventional, rejected the norm.
we promise to
keep this spirit alive! munich
paris
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guangzhou
sydney
shanghai
são paulo
milan
amsterdam
hong kong
moscow
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Marketing News
timism, to the lives of our loyal users, celebrities and the communities we serve,” said Joanne Crewes, vice president and general manager, Global SK-II. More info: www.sk-ii.com
• To help break the cycle of domestic violence, Hissyfit is partnering with Beauty Cares, a non-profit organization that benefits victims of domestic abuse, through an integrated Facebook campaign. Once Hissyfit garners 5,000 Facebook fans, its parent company Valeant will donate more than $100,000 worth of Hissyfit products to Beauty Cares. As an added bonus, when the brand reaches its goal of 5,000 Facebook fans, each fan will receive a 10% discount on her next hissyfit.com purchase. Beauty Cares’ mission is to break the cycle of domestic violence for women and children. The organization’s signature event, The Beauty Cares Breakthrough Experience, promises a transformation inside and out for survivors of domestic violence currently residing in shelters. Within a safe, calm environment, professional makeup artists and top hairstylists create a polished, work-appropriate look to highlight guests’ natural beauty and enhance self-esteem. In this fun, interactive session, the artists and stylists provide tips for recreating that same look to keep feeling great, day after day. Beauty Cares further provides a gift tote containing the products required to maintain their beautiful new look. “We’re proud to lend our support to Beauty Cares,” said Trey Schutz, vice president and general manager, dermatology, Consumer Products at Valeant Pharmaceuticals, which owns Hissyfit. “This organization isn’t about making women look good, it’s about making them feel good. To us, there is no cause more worthy than helping these women regain their confidence and independence, which is why we’re so pleased to help support this cause.” More info: www.hissyfit.com
• Telemundo, in partnership with L’Oréal USA, has rolled out Club de Noveleras, its official telenovela fan club at www.clubdenoveleras.com. This initiative is the first-ever for both companies of its scope and scale, according to the Spanish-language network. In addition, there will be 10 in-market large scale Club de Noveleras talent tours in 2011, featuring two events per market in Chicago, Los Angeles, Miami, New York and Houston. At these events, members will meet their favorite Telemundo novela stars and also get hair and makeup touchups with the latest Maybelline and Garnier products. Samples will also be distributed. “This is the first time that several L’Oréal USA brands and divisions have come together to celebrate the beauty of the Hispanic community,”stated Marc Speichert, chief marketing officer, L’Oréal USA. “L’Oréal USA has a profile of beauty products that fit the need of every U.S. Hispanic consumer. Through this partnership with Telemundo, we will create the first Hispanic community that allows users to engage with their favorite Telenovela stars, connect with others about beauty while earning rewards and free gifts for 44 • happi
participating in this ultimate Hispanic beauty destination.” “This integrated program transforms viewership into relationship while connecting L’Oréal USA’s brands like L’Oréal Paris, Maybelline and Garnier, to their target consumers in an experiential and unique way,” said Jacqueline Hernández, chief operating officer, Telemundo.“Consumers will be able to join an online community where they can interact with each other and with their favorite telenovela stars, while also finding rich beauty content including a brand new dedicated beauty blog.” In the Club de Noveleras’ loyalty program, subscribers will earn points and can redeem them to win prizes, Telemundo brand premiums and various products from across L’Oréal USA’s beauty portfolio. Telenovela fans will be able to interact with other fans on social media sites such as Facebook and Twitter, see exclusive Telenovela content available only to Club de Noveleras members and learn beauty tips and all about the latest trends in makeup and hair care from prominent beauty blogger Johanna Torres, former editor-in-chief of Siempre Mujer. Telemundo’s recently launched social media unit, Social@Telemundo, will also play an integral role. Torres will reportedly engage the community, providing beauty tips and hosting polls about a range of beauty topics. In addition, the program will be crosspromoted across all NBCU platforms. The site will also serve as an insights vehicle with a daily panel that will provide L’Oréal USA with key information on what Club de Noveleras members are looking for in their beauty regimes, according to Telemundo. More info: www.clubdenoveleras.com
• Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps is expanding into the food business with a culinary coconut oil. Dr. Bronner’s Magic“All-One”Fair Trade and Organic Virgin Coconut Oil (VCO) is fresh-pressed, unrefined and can be used for stir-frying, soups, sauces and baking deserts—as well as body care, as field research in the tropics shows that people who follow a traditional diet high in coconut oil enjoy excellent cardiovascular health. According to the company, clinical research confirms that the saturated medium chain fatty acids (MCT’s) in VCO, such as lauric acid, actually improve blood cholesterol by increasing the ratio of HDL to LDL cholesterol. Available exclusively at Whole Foods Market nationwide until May, the new “All-One” Coconut Oil is sold in 14oz. jars for $9.99.
• Christina Zehavi traveled from Israel to celebrate the creation of Christina-USA. In an introduction and training meeting held in Sarasota, FL, Joe Contorno, president and CEO of Christina-USA, brought together a wide range of experts to learn firsthand about Christina’s professional products and treatments. Instructed by Zehavi herself, the three-day training consisted of in-depth education and hands-on training of Christina’s seven multi-stage professional treatments. More info: www.christina-usa.com
happi.com
May 2011
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Marketing News
• “My Fair Lady” was the theme of Sue Wong’s Fall 2011 show that took place at her private residence in Los Angeles, CA.Paying homage to the Edwardian styling of the film and the overall theme of transformation, Wong tapped China Glaze to complement her collection, which was filled with ornate gowns, rich satins, flowing chiffons and fine laces. Colors included China Glaze Drastic (a dark, brick red) and China Rouge (a rich, creamy red) and Seche Vite Fast Dry Top Coat for a high gloss shine.
• Celebrity Apprentice Hairstylist Kimmi Hendrix recently created La Toya Jackson’s latest hair color change using her favorite cruelty free hair color by IT&LY Hairfashion. Jackson, a recent cast member for NBC’s Celebrity Apprentice, is one of the youngest members of the Jackson family and a singer, songwriter and musician. More info: www.italyhairfashion.com • As summer approaches and college courses begin to wind down, Procter & Gamble wants to help students prepare for their important and exciting summer internships. ReadyU is a program dedicated to supporting college students by helping them navigate the journey of life outside the classroom. The program is supported
At Sue Wong’s Fall 2011 show, the designer paid homage to Edwardian styling and tapped China Glaze to complement her collection.
Turn your head to Vivimed for all your hair care solutions • • • • •
Co-guar 113 and 117 cationic conditioning agents Dantuff-Z and Dantuff-C anti-dandruff actives Ben-3, Ben-4 and Avis UV absorbers Vividine hair growth active Jarocol hair dyes for semi-permanent, permanent and temporary colours
Visit us at Booth 1118 at NY SCC Suppliers’ Day Tel (732) 398-0008
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happi.com
May 2011
Marketing News
by over 150 colleges throughout the country and is championed by campus ambassadors with dedicated events featuring select P&G products, which assist students in succeeding in those important moments that go beyond the average curriculum. To arm students with the skills needed to put their best foot forward this summer, ReadyU has partnered with Celebrity Stylist Jen Rade. Ranked as one of Hollywood’s Most Powerful Stylists, she will provide beneficial hints in order for future CEOs to rock their internships. ReadyU is also helping four lucky students kick off their summer internship in complete style. Beginning April 8, college students nationwide had the opportunity to enter The ReadyU Ultimate Style Sweepstakes. The four winning students (chosen at random) will be awarded a $1,000 Visa gift card to help them accessorize and dress their best, along with an intern survival pack, featuring essential products from P&G brands including, CoverGirl, Pantene, Old Spice, Gillette, Tide and Crest. Students must “like” the ReadyU Facebook page to enter. More info: www.pg.com
• Henkel’s Dial for Men brand recently enlisted Red Tettemer + Partners to reposition its Dial for Men body wash—high-
lighting the fun part of why men use body wash: getting dirty. This campaign connects with men by encouraging them to celebrate dirt as a badge of honor, evidenced with its new tagline “Get your dirt on, we’ll get it off.” The interactive campaign, launched on Facebook (www.facebook.com/dialformen), encourages guys to embrace their dirty side by taking a Filthocratic Oath. Fans can then enter the 30 Days of Dirt giveaway to win prizes like Cabela’s gift cards, Dial products, dirt bikes and Polaris all-terrain vehicles. A national TV commercial debuted on April 4. In August, Dial for Men will present the muddiest, filthiest three days mankind has ever seen at its Camp Dirt. The three-day camp is the ultimate prize of a sweepstakes starting in April and includes dirty-awesome activities like Bulldozer Drag Racing, Digging with Dynamite and Paintball ‘Pocolypse. More info: www.facebook.com/dialformen
• Sears is trying beauty...again. The retailer will reenter the beauty business with full-fledged departments in 100 of its busier stores during the next several months. The move marks the venerable retailer’s biggest attempt at beauty since its failed Circle of Beauty concept back in the 1990s, which was eventually pulled from stores in 2001. Later, Sears carried Avon’s retail line BeComing, but Avon dropped that project in 2003. Brands will include L’Oréal, Cover Girl, Maybelline, Revlon and Physicians Formula, as well as skin care, fragrance and nail care items. In addition, sources say Sears will also stock masstige brands like Ahava, Lumene, Dermalogica, Burt’s Bees and StriVectin. • Obagi Medical Products has rolled out an enhanced website with an updated look and feel, with a Facebook welcome tab, You Tube page and official Obagi blog. More info: www.obagi.com
• One Love Organics has been awarded the Green America Business Seal of Approval. To be considered for the seal and earn a listing in the annual National Green Pages, businesses complete a rigorous screening process to ensure they meet Green America’s standards for the environment, community and labor. “We are over the top excited to earn this coveted Seal of Approval,” said Suzanne LeRoux, president of One Love Organics. “It’s one of the most respected and recognized symbols in the green marketplace and a powerful way to set One Love Organics apart as a leader in its field.” More info: www.oneloveorganics.com • 48 • happi
happi.com
May 2011
EcoScrub™ & EcoSoft™
New Green Technology. Where Science and Nature Meet. More and more consumers are looking for eco-friendly products. Now there’s an affordable way to bring eco-qualities to personal care. Micro Powders® EcoScrub and EcoSoft are the perfect blend of science and nature … high-tech biodegradable powders from renewable sources, providing the outstanding benefits of our advanced micronizing technology.
EcoScrub, specifically formulated for your green exfoliating product; providing the same high performance of polyethylene powders. Available in a variety of particle sizes.
EcoSoft, a finely micronized powder, developed to enhance your green formulations in skincare and color cosmetics. If your business is personal care, green is the way to grow … with innovative eco-products from Micro Powders.
Innovation from Micro Powders
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Patent Pending. www.MPIpersonalcare.com • 580 White Plains Road, Tarrytown, NY 10591 • Tel: 914.793.4058 • Fax: 914.472.7098
Regulations
HOW SAFE ARE PROFESSIONAL HAIR SMOOTHERS? • John Bailey, chief scientist, Personal Care Products Council, released commentary on the recent Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel’s preliminary findings on the safety of two ingredients used in professional hair smoothing products. On March 4, the CIR Expert Panel reached a tentative conclusion on the safety of formaldehyde and methylene glycol as they are used in cosmetics and in “professional use only” hair straightening and smoothing products. “The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) joined FDA and consumer groups several months ago in requesting that CIR review the safety of formaldehyde/methylene glycol as they are used in professional hair straightening and smoothing products, and we support these tentative findings of the CIR Expert Panel. Until the review is completed and regulatory authorities have had the opportunity to assess it and come to their own conclusions, we urge consumers to exercise caution in using these products.” He added, “We urge FDA to work expeditiously with OSHA and appropriate state and local organizations to objectively determine if salon hair smoothing products emit levels of formaldehyde gas that are unsafe for consumers or salon workers under their intended conditions of use and taking into consideration salon ventilation practices. We recommend FDA take prompt and appropriate action to make sure these products have been fully tested and substantiated for safety under their conditions of use.”
CPSC Launches Consumer Website • The U. S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) went live with SaferProducts.gov, a database mandated by Congress as part of the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act. Consumers are encouraged to visit the online portal to submit reports of harm or risks of harm, and to search for safety information on products they own or may consider buying. “CPSC stayed on time and on budget in building this new database,” said chairman Inez Tenenbaum. “Through SaferProducts.gov, consumers will have open access to product safety information that they have never seen before and the information will empower them to make safer choices.” Following procedures set up by the law, CPSC will review all online reports and have five business days to transmit qualifying reports to the manufacturer, where practicable. Manufacturers then have 10 business days during which they may respond and provide comments and/or claims. At the end of the 10-day period, if all requirements are met, the report and the manufacturer’s comments will be posted on SaferProducts.gov. It is important that consumers provide CPSC with information that is true and accurate to the best of their knowledge. Reports lacking required information will not be published. Similarly, in50 • happi
formation in a report of harm determined to be materially inaccurate within the 10 days provided to manufacturers to respond will not be published. Reports that potentially contain confidential information will have such data taken out before the report is posted. “I believe that an informed consumer is an empowered consumer,” said Tenenbaum.“The ability for parents and consumers to search this database for incidents involving a product they already own or are thinking of purchasing will enable them to make independent decisions aimed at keeping their family safe.” On Jan. 24, CPSC began registering businesses online and accepting reports through SaferProducts.gov to test the system. Since then, consumers have filed about 1,500 reports online. Approximately 1,400 manufacturers have signed up on the business portal, so they can receive a copy of a report about their product in a timely manner via e-mail. Reports accepted during this test period will not be visible to the public but are being processed internally by CPSC as has been done with all reports in the past. Reports received now are visible and searchable by consumers.
CAPCO Expands Internet Outreach • In an effort to further combat misleading and false information pertaining to aerosol products and strengthen its overall web-based outreach strategy, the Consumer Aerosol Products Council (CAPCO) has made improvements to its interactive website, www.aerosolproducts.org. The retooled CAPCO website and web strategy seek to educate consumers, the media and teachers looking for interesting approaches to engaging students in science and the truth about aerosol product usage, according to the council. In addition to highlighting more information and a user-friendly navigation, the site also offers an interactive quiz, 10 individual teacher activities/lesson plans and five lab experiments. “Given the growing popularity of internet-based communications, we’ve placed a greater emphasis on our Web 2.0 outreach and at the center of that strategy is an improved website,”said Joe Bowen, CAPCO chairman. “In order to educate people and provide them with useful information, you have to engage them where they are; whether it‘s online or in the classroom.” The refreshed CAPCO website encourages more user interaction and a better overall visitor experience. Visitors can learn even more about aerosols in daily life by exploring the popular interactive Eco-Aerosols page. For the information enthusiasts there are plenty of unique and interesting factoids and diagrams related to aerosol products and aerosol spray technology. Site visitors also can access additional information under the recently expanded “Resources” page. More info: www.aerosolproducts.org •
happi.com
May 2011
Patent Review
NON-IRRITATING PHOTOPROTECTIVE COMPOSITION • U.S. Patent No. 7,910,090 B2; Playtex Products, Inc., Westport, CT, has patented a non-irritating, photo-protective cosmetic composition. It is comprised of a water phase with a buffer, an electrolyte, a mild preservative and a lubricant; and one or more sunscreen agents selected from octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate, homosalate, titanium dioxide and any combinations thereof. The buffer is selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, trisodium citrate, citric acid, sodium bicarbonate, sodium lactate, trisodium phosphate, disodium phosphate, sodium borate, boric acid, calcium fumarate, sodium succinate, trismaleate and any combinations thereof. The electrolyte is selected from sodium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, disodium EDTA and any combinations thereof. The mild preservative is selected from esters, phenols, phenoxyethanol, paraben, methyl paraben, butyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben, isobutyl paraben,
isopropyl paraben, polyquaternium-1, benzalkonium chloride, sorbic acid, potassium sorbate, polyaminopropyl biguanidine, diazolidinyl urea and any combinations thereof. The lubricant is selected from polyols, glycerin, propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, PEG-400, PEG-8 and any combinations thereof. The photoprotective cosmetic composition is non-irritating to a mammalian eye, and exhibits on a scale of 0 to 3 at least one of a bulbar conjunctiva irritation score of 0.4 or less and a palpebral conjunctiva score of 0.4 or less. The bulbar conjunctiva irritation score and palpebral conjunctiva score are measured 30 seconds after a drop of the photoprotective composition is instilled into the eye of a user.
Skin Treatment for Feet • U.S. Patent No. 7,910,118 B2; Dennis R. Bannister of Columbia, SC has patented a solution for treating human feet. It consists of water, magnesium sulfate, methyl-
P&G’s Recent Laundry Patents • Procter & Gamble has been awarded patents for three laundry products, including a solid laundry detergent, a pearlescent liquid treatment and a bleaching composition. In U.S. Patent No. 7,910,534 B2, P&G has patented a solid laundry detergent composition in particulate form comprising a plurality of particulate components. The composition is comprised of alkyl benzene sulphonate and a hydratable material and is free of zeolite and phosphate builder. It is also essentially free of silicate salt. The composition comprises a mixture of three particulate components: a spray-dried component comprised of alkyl benzene sulphonate and hydratable magnesium sulfate; an agglomerate component comprised of alkyl benzene sulphonate and hydratable magnesium sulfate; and a dry-added component. The composition has a density in the range of 450-550g/l. U.S. Patent No. 7,910,535 B2 covers a pearlescent liquid laundry treatment. The composition is non-aqueous and is packaged in a water-soluble film. The pearlescent agent is an inorganic pearlescent agent selected from mica, metal oxide coated mica, bismuth oxychloride coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, glass, metal oxide coated glass and mixtures thereof. U.S. Patent No. 7,910,536 B2 is for a liquid bleaching composition. It contains a hypohalite bleach based on active halide, 3,4,5-trimethoxybenzoic acid or a salt thereof; and a compound selected from the group consisting of disodium-4,4-bis-(2-sulfostyril)-biphenyl, blue copper phthalocyanine and mixtures thereof.
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paraben, isopropyl alcohol, methyl salicylate and malic acid.
Neutralizing Warfare Agents With Household Chemicals •
U.S. Patent No. 7,910,537 B1; The United States of America, as represented by the Secretary of the Army, has patented a method of neutralizing chemical warfare agents using benign household chemicals. It entails a composition consisting of a solution of ammonia and water, a solution of hydrogen peroxide and water, and, optionally, at least one member selected from baking soda, washing soda, and a solution of isopropyl alcohol and water having an isopropyl alcohol. The composition is then contacted with a chemical warfare agent.
L’Oréal Patents Soluble Cosmetic with Thermal Effect • U.S. Patent No. 7,910,121 B2; L’Oréal has patented a cosmetic article that is comprised of at least one sheet comprising at least one fiber which is soluble in water at a temperature less than or equal to 30°C; and a composition carried by the support. The density of the support is less than or equal to 0.1 g/cm3, and the composition carried by the support contains at least one compound which causes a temperature change due to an exothermic or endothermic reaction when contacted with water.
Eyelash Separator And Mascara Applicator •
U.S. Patent No. D628,810; Janda C. Rieger of Aiken, SC has patented an ornamental design for a combined eyelash separator and mascara applicator. According to Aiken, the design, which features a mascara brush and mascara located on one end of a tube, while separating bristles and a selfcleaning container are on the other, allows users to define each lash more accurately. The wand helps remove mascara clumps and prevents lashes from sticking. • May 2011
IT S OKAY IT’S O OKA AY TO PLAY W ITH H YOUR FRUIT WITH fruit Novozymes’ Eliminate fru uit stains with No XPect®. new detergent detergeent solution – XP
With XPect Novozymes opens a new enzyme category. Remove common STAINS STAINS FR FROM FRUITS AND FRUIT OM FRUITS AND FRUIT BA BAASED PR ASED PRODUCTS LIKE JAMS JELLIES SM ODUCTS LIKE JAMS JELLIES SM MOOTHIES MOOTHIES STAINS FROM FRUITS AND FRUIT BASED PRODUCTS LIKE JAMS JELLIES SMOOTHIES yogurts, tomato sauces, and much mor e. more. ,EAR N MORE ABOUT 80ECT AT WWW W NOVOZYMESCOMXPECT ,EARN MORE ABOUT 80ECT AT WWWNOVOZYMESCOMXPECT
.OVOZYMES !3 s +ROGSHOEJVEJ s "AGSVAERD $ENMARK s 4EL s &AX s DETERGENT NOVOZYMESCOM s WWWNOVOZYMESCOM .OVOZYMES !3 s +R OGSHO OEJVEJ s "AGSVAERD $ENMARK s 4 4EEL s &AX s DETERGENT NOVOZYMESC COM s WWWNOVOZYMESCOM leader across broad create tomorrow’s planet’ss rresources. Novozymes is the world lea ader in bioinnovation. TTogether ogether o with customers acr oss a br b oad array of industries we cr eate tomorr ow’s industrial biosolutions, improving improving our customers’ business and the e use of our planet’ esources. ¥ .OVOZYMES ! 3 q #USTOMER #OMMUNICATIONS q .O 3 q #USTOMER #O OMMUNICATIONS q .O
Gleams & Notions
IN
THE
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EED A NEW thickener for your personal care formula? Noveon Consumer Specialties, a product line of Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc. in Cleveland, OH, is promoting a new efficient rheology modifier for hard-to-thicken surfactant systems. Novethix L-10 polymer (INCI name: Acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer) is a milky white liquid with 30% solids and a pH of 3.0. Its benefits are as follows: • Easy to use liquid form; • Cold process—no heat needed with a short mixing time; • Thickens low level surfactant formulations; • Synergistic thickening with salt; • Provides a smooth, honey-like flow; • Good clarity in low surfactant systems; • Cost effective replacement for nonionic thickeners; i.e., PEG-150 distearate; • Replaces amides in cleansing formulations; • Stabilizes insoluble ingredients such as oils, and enhances pearlescent appearance; and • Gives reproducible viscosity results and provides high temperature stability. Novethix L-10 is compatible with a wide range of surfactants and efficiently provides excellent rheology and aesthetics
Harvey M. Fishman Consultant Harvey Fishman has a consulting firm located at 34 Chicasaw Drive, Oakland, NJ 07436,
[email protected], specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field.
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THICK
OF I T
Novethix L-10 polymer has applications in shampoo formulas.
in surfactant systems. This hydrophobically modified polyelectrolyte thickening ability depends on the surfactant composition, the polymer concentration and the formulation pH. A low surfactant formula containing 8% sodium lauryl ether sulfate and 2% cocamidopropyl betaine will thicken considerably when used with 1% polymer and raising the pH to 7.0 with aminomethyl propanol. The following heat-free formula provides a smooth, creamy feel and foams well.
Body Wash Ingredients: %WT. Part A Water q.s. to 100 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05 Ammonium lauryl sulfate 15.00 (30% active) Ammonium laureth sulfate 25.00 (27% active) Sunflower seed oil 18.00 Novethix L-10 polymer 10.00 Part B Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium 0.30 chloride Glycerin 5.00 Sodium hydroxide (18%) 1.50 Green tea herbal extract 1.00 Cucumis sativus (cucumber) 1.00 fruit extract (and) propylene glycol DMDM hydantoin 0.50 Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate 0.10 Dyes and fragrance q.s. happi.com
Citric acid 0.25 Cocamidopropyl betaine (35%) 5.00 Procedure: With constant stirring, add part A ingredients to main tank in indicated order. Mix part B in separate container and add to batch tank. Add other ingredients in indicated order with good mixing between additions. This product is a creamy pink lotion with a pH of 5.4-5.8. The total solids of Novethix L-10 polymer is 3%. The formula below contains no sulfate, amide or salt.
Sulfate Free Shampoo Ingredients: %WT. Part A Water 50.00 Ammonium cocyl isethionate (31%) 6.67 Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, 2.50 sodium cocyl isethionate (and) cocamidopropyl betaine (32%) Part B Water 9.24 Novethix L-10 polymer 2.50 Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben 0.50 (and) ethylparaben Lauryl hydroxysultaine (50%) 4.01 Oleyl betaine (and) sodium lauroyl 5.56 lactylate Disodium cocoamphodiacetate 2.78 Sodium hydroxide (18%) 0.78 Procedure: With constant stirring, warm water in batch tank to 30-40°C and add first ingredient, then second item. In separate container, mix Part B and add to Part A. Add rest of ingredients in indicated order and mix gently. The formula will become clear and viscous as sodium hydroxide is added to raise the pH to the desired level. This product is clear to translucent with a pH of 6.3-6.7. It foams well and passed a three month stability test at 45°C and six weeks at 50°C. It also was stable through a five-cycle freeze/thaw test.• May 2011
CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS
YOU KNOW US. YOU JUST DIDN’T KNOW IT.
WACKER’s specialized formulations are found in everything from foundation and lipstick to conditioners and hairstyling mousse.
To learn more about our customized solutions, visit us at www.wacker.com/knows-solutions. Wacker Chemical Corporation, 3301 Sutton Road, Adrian, MI 49221, USA TEL: +1 888 922 5374, FAX: +1 517 264 4068,
[email protected]
EuroTrends
BIG GAINS IN FRAGRANCE FOR WOMEN IN EUROPE
T
HE WOMEN’S FRAGRANCE market in the
Big 5 had a very successful 2010 with France, Germany, Italy and the UK making gains in value terms. At press time, results from Spain were unavailable. This unequivocal success story is welcome news indeed in a market where products often come at a premium price and where big savings can be made in one fell swoop if people want to economize. This positive activity shows that customers’ faith in the category, and the past year has given them a renewed sense of optimism. Women will not forego their fragrances even when times are tough as they feel that scent is one luxury that they cannot do without. France, in particular, has a long history with scent, and German consumers are increasingly championing home grown brands. In Italy, fashion and fragrance go hand in hand and there is a close link between the two industries. The UK is often used as a springboard for launches when U.S. brands gauge how well the scents will be received in the rest of Europe.
Fragrance à la France According to The NPD Group’s latest figures, the French women’s fragrance market has seen overall growth of 4% between
Katie Middleweek Editor, European Cosmetic Markets European Cosmetic Markets is published monthly by HPCi Media Limited. It provides in-depth data and analysis of the European cosmetics and toiletries market. For subscription details contact HPCi Media Limited, Tel: (44) 0207 193 7447 • Fax: (44) 20 7549 8622
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2006-2010 when it came to value sales, totalling nearly $1.6 billion in 2010 alone. On the other hand, volume sales declined 6% over the same period although the total in 2010 was shown to be 22.5 million units, still a respectable figure. Fine fragrance is still the most popuThe initial launch of Jimmy Choo’s scent made a big splash in the UK. lar type of scent in the women’s fragrance market in German customers are increasingly supthe country with many French women porting their domestic fragrance sector with choosing to spend a good proportion of top fragrance house Mäurer and Wirtz their fragrance budget on it. spearheading this charge with a couple of This is a point proven by the fact that key scent debuts in the past year. the Premium Puig fragrance, Lady MilFirstly, from German fashion house lion, has been a best seller in France since s.Oliver came Superior—which included a it was launched last year. Since it debuted scent for men and women. Superior for last summer, it now accounts for a 2.6% women is billed as“a self confident and alshare of the French women’s fragrance luring scent composition” and has rich market, which is quite an achievement for notes of wood with a heart of tangy tanjust one scent. gerine, grapefruit and passionfruit and top At the end of 2010 Lady Million was notes of orchid, freesia and plum. The fraranked as the 13th most popular fragrance grance is housed in a heavy glass bottle to in the country, and its success has been symbolize opulence and sensuality. largely buoyed by its male predecessor, Another scent of note came from Miswhich was also a best seller when it arrived tral, which rolled out Mistral Female last a couple of years earlier. summer. This scent exudes a top note of fruity bergamot, cassis and grapefruit, with jasmine and rose at the heart and cedarSpraying at Home The women’s fragrance market in Germany wood and tonka bean at the base. is also doing well with figures from SymphonyIRI Germany showing that the Perfumery Power women’s fragrance market here grew 1.5% Italy showed even more promise last year to $1.51 billion in 2010. Volume sales were as sales rose 3.1% to $757 million, acalso moving in the right direction, putting cording to Unipro. Perfumery shops acon 1% to 51.95 million units. counted for the majority of sales at $655 Although fans of international scents, million, which demonstrates the power of happi.com
May 2011
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EuroTrends
this retail chain in the country. Fashion houses also have a big influence on Italian women’s fragrances choices and brands like Moschino and Gucci sell well here. These are obviously big names but smaller niche brands are also seeing something of a revival. One brand sold in the popular perfumery channel is the El Charro range of scents, from Capone Prestige. El Charro was quite a big Italian fashion label back in the 1980s before disappearing from the scene in the early 1990s. However, it has made a comeback and the brand debuted El Charro Man and Woman in 2010 in order to tell consumers it was back in business. El Charro Woman is billed as promoting “joy of life and sensuality and giving women the courage to always be themselves.” The scent has fruity flowered top notes, a heart of geranium and sweet amber and a base of patchouli, vetiver and ebony.
Smelling Sweet Meanwhile, the UK women’s fragrance market came up smelling like roses in 2010 with sales jumping 12.1% to more than $1.4 billion, according to figures from Kantar Worldpanel. These are encouraging results from a nation that has the lowest fragrance usage among the Big 5. Prestige fragrance continued to dominate the UK women’s fragrance sector with an 85% share last year, a growth of 11.3% on 2009. However, there was a fluctuation in growth among mass market female fragrances, which recorded a 17.7% lift, boosting their share of the market to 14%. In the UK, the long-awaited debut fragrance from Jimmy Choo hit beauty counters in January. The luxury shoe designer’s eponymously named scent, created under license with Inter Parfums, is described as a fruity chypre with warm woody depths. Luminous green top notes blend to a heart
composed of tiger orchid, while sweet toffee and patchouli add depth at the base. And just recently, Estée Lauder brand Jo Malone created a limited edition fragrance collection inspired by tea. The Tea Fragrance Blends range feature three fragrance blends (Assam & Grapefruit, Earl Grey & Cucumber and Fresh Mint Leaf) that can be combined with Sweet Lemon and Sweet Milk in a similar way to how one would blend tea and milk in a teacup. The British fragrance house also rolled out a limited edition spring scent to celebrate the Cherry Blossom Festival in Japan. Sakura Cherry Blossom blends rose, mimosa, bergamot and mandarin with a base of musk and woods to create a powdery interpretation of cherry blossom. Fragrance has proved its resilience as marketers roll out an array of scents to tempt consumers, from limited editions and flankers to big new launches. •
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happi.com
May 2011
A Strategic Point of View
BEAUTY STORES RE-CONFIGURE
M
are afoot in terms of how prestige cosmetics, skin care and fragrances will be sold in the future. On both sides of the Atlantic, existing retailers are busy trying out all sorts of new configurations. In Europe, department stores do not play as important a role in sales of prestige beauty products as they do in the U.S. While they are important, of course, it is perfumeries that have, until now, played a dominant role in most continental European countries. For those of our American readers who may be unfamiliar with perfumeries, these tend to be small stores in town and city centers, stocking almost solely prestige lines, with a few masstige brands near the door to “pull people in.” They are a little bit like very small Ultas, if you will, but without Ulta’s innovative approach to store layout, impact, or product spread from prestige to mass, and without Ulta’s salon facilities. Indeed, many of Europe’s perfumeries have not really changed in style or innovation for years. But now, things are changing. By most retail standards, perfumeries have never AJOR CHANGES
Douglas, the German-based perfumery chain, and other like it have been reconfiguring to stay afloat.
Colin Hession Colin Hession Consulting Colin Hession is Managing Director of Colin Hession Consulting, a specialist consultancy that focuses exclusively on Personal Care in Europe, in terms of commercial & marketing development. Tel: +44-1202-710377 • Fax: +44-1202-710399 e-mail
[email protected] web site www.hessioncosmetics.com
60 • happi
been heavily shopped, and recession has meant that footfall, and therefore sales, have dropped significantly. As a consequence, the two largest European players, German-based Douglas, and Frenchbased but Chinese-owned Watson’s Mariannaud, have been desperately reconfiguring in order to stay afloat. Each of these leading perfumery chains owns around 1,200 stores across Europe, compared with Sephora’s rather different looking 750 European units. Douglas perfumeries have just announced a re-configuration into three store types: mainstream, high-end and trend. Mainstream will apparently highhappi.com
light masstige fragrances such as Coty’s Halle Berry, ranging up to Chanel products. High-end stores will have more of a boutique feel, and will include luxury brands such as La Mer and Tom Ford fragrances. Trend shops will be aimed at the younger consumer, and will include popular lower cost cosmetics, along with M.A.C. and Bobbi Brown. Shoppers are promised virtual makeovers and computerized skin analyses, and can add comments to an e-guestbook that transmits on two large screens around the store. Meanwhile, Europe’s drugstores, which sell mainly mass and are led by Germany’s DM, are busy trying to figure May 2011
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A Strategic Point of View
out how they can do better with prestige lines, which they currently tend to obtain on the gray market. It seems there is some interesting retail experimentation on both sides of the Atlantic. Clearly, the size of the prize is considerable for those retailers who come up with a new model for selling the whole spectrum of beauty products, from prestige through to mass—which works. We reckon the Watsons group will be watching Ulta’s model in the U.S. with particular care, since there can be little doubt that this ambitious Chinese group wants to enter the States before too long. The strategic implications for prestige suppliers are clear. They should monitor the situation closely, and if one particular retailer’s model looks to be breaking away from the rest of the pack, then they should consider investing heavily in that retailer. Interesting times.
Retailer Alliances Meanwhile, it seems that retailers are forging a series of alliances in an effort to maximize their reach, both geographically and in terms of shopper profiles. We’ve already started to see Sephora shop-within-shop units springing up within department stores in various countries, not least in Spain’s El Cortes Ingles chain. The latter is patronized by a good cross-section of Spanish shoppers, and already has prestige counters as well as a strong mass showing, so Sephora must have been successful in persuading them that their addition would increase footfall at the top end of the scale. Now Sephora has announced a new partnership with L’Oréal’s The Body Shop, whereby The Body Shop will develop exclusive skin and body care items for Sephora to roll out in 170 of the retailer’s 230 U.S. stores. Initially, the new partnership will be limited to the U.S. only, but if positive results are forthcoming, an international rollout could be envisaged. Also worthy of note is Alliance Boots’ recent deal with Carrefour, whereby Boots’ contract manufacturing business will take versions of Boots’ cosmetics, hair care, bath 62 • happi
and skin care products and produce these for Carrefour, albeit under the Carrefour label. Up to now, Boots has always stopped short of making private label for other retailers, but times are changing. Indeed, in the UK, Boots has a trial with upscale supermarket chain Waitrose for the sale of selected products in each other’s stores, with Waitrose private label food in some Boots stores and Boots healthcare private label ranges in Waitrose. Strategic implications for branded suppliers: take private label (more) seriously!
Botox In-Store All sorts of things are being trialed in-store these days. In the UK, Superdrug has established beauty clinics that offer, among other things, anti-wrinkle Botox injections.
Private Label: Savior or Slippery Slope? On the other hand, if you are a retailer – especially one in the beauty arena— there is a danger in taking private label too seriously and expecting it to be the answer to all your revenue and margin problems. Earlier this year (see HAPPI, January 2011) we wrote about the tough time that Germany’s largest drugstore chain, Schlecker, was having and how it had been cutting back stores and reducing inventory. We noted how owner, Anton Schlecker, had appointed his two adult children to oversee a new Fit For Future program of store refurbishment. Now the chain has said it wants to increase the amount of private label products it sells, in order to help offset declining sales, and is aiming to grow private label to up to 30% of total sales from its current 17%. We think that such a near doubling of private label is likely to be the start of a slippery slope. There is considerable evidence, albeit mostly anecdotal, of retailers who have over-emphasized private label to the detriment of brands, and then come unstuck in terms of shopper footfall. The fact is that in HBA particularly, where brands often represent“mums little indulgence,” if she can’t find it in your store, she’ll go somewhere else. In recessionary times private label has a stronger role to play, in terms of being given more fixture space in-store, certainly, but we still think there are risks in overrating its overall share. So, Schlecker beware! happi.com
“I’ll take some toothpaste, soap and, er, Botox?”
The latter will apparently be administered by doctors from an existing London firm, called a little disarmingly “Cosmedoctor.” and will cost some $210…that’s something we don’t think we’ll be bothering to afford!
Tesco’s Click-and-Collect Tesco has had considerable success with its online operation in the UK, using the slogan “You shop, we drop!” (a variation on the popular phrase, “shop till you drop”). But it seems research has shown that more people might be persuaded to order online if they could turn up to a local store and just collect the goods, rather than wait for hours at home until the delivery arrives. So Tesco is reportedly considering a plan to allow customers to pick up their internet orders from their May 2011
A Strategic Point of View
extensive network of convenience stores, under the slogan “Click-And-Collect.”
Where’s the Referee? A year ago (see HAPPI, March 2010), we reported on the UK’s Competition Commission having developed a Groceries Supplies
Code of Practice, in an effort to placate smaller suppliers who were complaining, as they have done for years, of being bullied by those wicked chain retailers. The Commission said it was going to establish a body to oversee the new code, and draft legislation was to be put in place. However
it seems that the UK government has had other priorities and that a so-called Groceries Code Adjudicator has still to be appointed. So Britain’s National Farmers Union has recently branded the whole thing as “toothless,” a clear case of where’s the referee?
P&G To Push Gucci Since acquiring the Gucci fragrance license in 2006, P&G says it has nearly trebled the business. Industry sources estimate the Gucci beauty brand could now be worth some $500 to $600 million worldwide. Gucci to be another Now P&G’s presi- of P&G’s big ones? dent of Global Prestige Beauty, Patrice Louvet, has indicated that the company intends to put a major push behind building the brand’s fragrance business during the coming years. Strategic point to note: P&G intends to be really big in prestige fragrance, too…watch this space!
Swapping Sides Interesting that some chain retailers are now hiring senior executives from their leading suppliers to run their beauty businesses. First there was Paulo de Cesare, who in May 2007 left his position at the top of P&G’s global skin care division to join fellow Italian financier Maurizio Borletti, who had recently bought the French Le Printemps department store chain, as Borletti’s CEO. Now another P&G executive, Christopher de Lapuente, who had been heading up P&G’s global hair care division, is to become global president and CEO of Sephora. Generally speaking, when this has happened the other way around and retailers joined suppliers, it hasn’t always ended happily. But the signs are that supplier-to-retailer moves are looking a better bet. • 64 • happi
happi.com
May 2011
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Body
Notes from China
DEMAND FOR BODY CARE IS ON THE RISE IN CHINA
A
LTHOUGH THE CHINESE government is determined to put a damper on the overheating economy, the beauty care industry never runs out of steam, posting double-digit growth for the past several years. Now, even the body care category is beginning to enjoy strong sales after years of relatively flat performance. According to Datamonitor, the body care category was valued at $513 million in 2009, representing a CAGR of 4.4% since 2004. Market volume totaled 221.8 million units in 2009, representing a CAGR of 4.7% since 2004. According to Euromonitor, in 2010, body care accounted for around 2.2% of total beauty and personal care sales in China, and its sales increased 7.7% to $369 million. Impressive, but not as spectacular a gain as the 13.1% rise of skin care sales. However, as China’s body care market is witnessing segmentation with a growing number of companies offering separate variants for specific areas such as hand, waist/abdomen and feet, two major subcategories by product claims, general purpose (i.e., hydrating/nourishing) and body
Ally Dai Happi China Ally Dai is senior editor of Happi China. She has more than 10 years of experience in the cosmetic and food industries. Happi China is a leading media for the China household & personal care industry. Published by Ringier Trade Media in strategic editorial partnership with Happi, it helps local manufacturers update their knowledge on formulating, testing and packaging, as well as providing market insight. Website: www. industrysourcing.com
66 • happi
reshaping, such as firming/anticellulite, show different results. The former increased its sales by 6.1% to $248 million, whereas the latter’s sales rose 11.1% to $121 million in 2010, according to Euromonitor. Furthermore, premium firming/anti-cellulite posted the highest sales growth of 30.7% to $29 million, while premium genYoung eral purpose posted the lowest growth of consumers 5.5% last year. This growth rate gap be- are helping to tween two major subcategories is ex- propel body the 15-24 pected to widen, as the products care sales. age group used claiming to bring the added benefit of 23.6% of the total weight loss appearance or reduce signs of body care products aging are gaining popularity among Chiin China in 2008. nese consumers, despite some skepticism The internet is provregarding their efficacy. ing to be young conWhile an increasing number of compasumers’ best friend in nies are now entering this market to cash helping them find in on robust beauty growth, the overseas the best products dominance in this category is apparent as on the market, in other beauty categories. On Euromoniand therefore an tor’s top lists of 2010 China body care, those online marketing/ familiar international names such as selling strategy is Beiersdorf AG, L’Oréal and Amway are still being adopted by leading the way in both general purpose those companies and firming/anticellulite lists, with Nivea believing that online word-of-mouth effect from Beiersdorf securing the No. 1 position can be an answer to some doubt over prodin both subcategories. uct efficacy. Still, there are a few local brands manOnce again, overseas brands are steps aging to make their way on the lists, with ahead in this online market. According to Sunrana from Zhuhai Sunrana Cosmetics the latest tracking report by online consultCo. Ltd. following Nivea as No. 2, and Softto ing firm Smart Path, SKIN79, Clinique and from Softto Co. Ltd. as No. 5 on Euromon- Clarins led the online China body care itor’s top firming/anticellulite body care list. market, with a collective 9.5% share in the Also, Herborist from Shanghai Jahwa third quarter of 2010. The top 10 brands in United Co. Ltd. comes in at No. 3 on its the online China body care market in 2010 general purpose subcategory list. were: SKIN79, Clinique, Clarins, Shiseido, Laneige, The Body Shop, Olay, Jurlique, L’Oréal and Mentholatum—all of them More Channels As we see in other beauty categories, many multinationals. manufacturers are exploring new channels to distribute their body care products, espe- Additional Care for Mom cially those targeting younger generations. Among various body reshaping products According to Datamonitor, consumers in that clearly enjoy the greatest popularity happi.com
May 2011
New
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Notes from China
in China, anti-stretch mark products are proving successful especially at a time when China is experiencing a baby boom. Not only do young moms want to give their children the best care, they are also willing to indulge themselves, which of course includes extra care for their own faces and bodies. This is triggering a surge in anti-stretch mark product sales. This self-indulgence phenomenon is apparent in the post-1980s generation, which is regarded as the “ideal consumer” by many industry analysts. Born since the 1980s when China’s economic reforms got under way, these young moms came from single-child homes and did not experience social and economic hardship like previous generations. Therefore, these 1980s’ moms are culturally more optimistic, financially wealthier and behaviorally more aggressive, and are willing to try novelties. Buoyed by increased consumption,
manufacturers are leaving no stone unturned to cash in on this “fourth baby boom” and are increasingly using traditional channels and the internet to push sales. It has been reported that the leading anti-stretch mark brands in China are SkinDoctors and Nereids from overseas, as well as Conba from a local manufacturer. As the current baby boom is expected to last until 2015, the sales of this once niche product is expected to grow.
Bright Future, Tough Regulation As the demand for body care continues to grow, its rosy future is widely recognized. According to Datamonitor, it is estimated that by the end of 2014, the body care category will be worth nearly $616 million, with an expected CAGR of 3.7% between 2009 and 2014. During the period, the market is expected to post a CAGR of 3.1% to reach 257.8 million units.
The reasons behind the accelerated growth are primarily attributed to rising disposable income and greater awareness. In this country, everyone wants to improve their appearance, as seen in the demand for facial and body care; to lighten skin, improve body shape by toning or firming or remove unwanted hair. There are still some challenges ahead facing this booming beauty and personal care industry. With products claiming specific efficacy on the rise, tougher regulations make sure products are safe and effective, and the body care category is no exception. In the latest Requirement of Technical Specifications on Cosmetic Products issued in April by the State Food and Drug Administration, both slimming/ firming/anticellulite (termed as body reshaping cosmetics in regulations) and breast care products are regulated as special-use, and are therefore subject to more rules than general cosmetics. •
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happi.com
May 2011
The Grayson Report
THE RETURN OF FASHION IS A BOOST FOR BEAUTY
T
HANKS TO COVERGIRL and Maybelline,
the leading mass beauty brands, fashion is returning to stimulate the cosmetic business, and like the end of a dreary winter, the sun is shining again. Back in the 1960s and early 1970s, fashion drove traffic, and hence, the business. Get this: Revlon was the leading brand in both mass and department stores with close to a 40% share of the mass color business! It was also in specialty stores, but did not dominate. In fact, the Ultima II line was created specifically for the Neiman’s and Saks’ consumers, you know, the women who lunch and shop.* Revlon’s success was driven by fashion and product innovation with Charles Revson’s hand firmly on the wheel, along with the huge impact coming from television and its $64,000 Question. For a $1.25 lipstick and $0.65 nail enamel, readers were transfixed by beautiful and famous models in the latest fashions, stretched across 4-color
Suzanne & Bob Grayson Grayson Associates Suzanne and Bob Grayson are respected, professional marketers, having spent their careers with the leading companies in the beauty industry before starting their successful consulting business in the early 1970s. Their consulting clients have included Avon, BristolMyers, Estée Lauder, Procter & Gamble, Revlon and Cover Girl, among others. They reside in San Juan Capistrano, CA and maintain an office in New York City. For more information, they can be reached at
[email protected] or
[email protected]
70 • happi
Take a look back at Suzi Parker and her Million Dollar look and introducing a new category: Blush-On.
spreads, and adorned with Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry; Tiffany was too down-market! Remember, this was 40+ years ago, before the jargon of “brand-image,” “positioning” and “value-added advertising” became chitchat over a double latte. Revlon’s ownership of the beauty/ fashion connection came from those twiceyearly, heavily advertised color promotions for lips and matching fingertips, such as Fire & Ice, Love that Red, Cherries in the Snow, Persian Melon, Snow Peach and others which have remained best sellers for more than 50 years! To spice up the fashion promotions as competitors followed the leader, Revlon discovered that these fashion efforts were also a great way to “try out” really new products, without the high risk of making those all-out inventory commitments. Enter Blush-On, a totally new category of cosmetics and introduced to the world as part of The Million Dollar American Look, with Suzi Parker wearing Million Dollar Red—and the blushing glow that still wakes up the complexions of millions of happi.com
women around the world, every day. (The full story of how Revlon invented the blush category is yours for an e-mail to
[email protected]). It is mentioned here to convey the power of Revlon’s image of beauty/fashion/innovation leadership in the Revson days, which sadly, has long been lost. Of note is a Leonard Lauder comment in The New York Times a few weeks back—“Running Estée Lauder is like driving a car. You have to be able to look in the rear view mirror and see where you have been, and look ahead to see where you have to go.” None of Revlon’s professional management teams since then truly understood its core strengths—the essence of what made for those glory days—i.e., where they came from. Nothing, not even money, can drive a brand like the ego, passion and perfection of its creator; Charles, Estée, Elizabeth, Helena for starters. Now, the vital connection between fashion and beauty has been smashingly revived by both CoverGirl and Maybelline to add great value to those brands, and May 2011
The Grayson Report
CoverGirl entices women to try its Lip Perfection lipcolor with ads that feature fashion as well as actress and celebrity spokesmodel Drew Barrymore.
thereby, not just for the products that are advertised, but their entire lines! For the past year or so, both brands have actively used direct and aggressive fashion connections as a means of engaging the consumer. Cover Girl’s four-page section, for its new Lip Perfection, starring Drew Barrymore, is a dramatic example of the direct link to fashion, with shoes, (think of all those shoe fetishes), jewelry and accessories. Maybelline’s sponsorship of Fashion Week the past few seasons (amazing for a mass brand!), enhances the authority of the entire line with advertising and in-store displays. The knock-out seven-page Runway Lookbook is chock full of accessories with harmonizing cosmetics in three spreads which open at each indented section: pearl fashion jewelry—with Colorsensational Pearls harmonizing lipsticks; Flirtations Feathers Maybelline has strong ties to fashion these days.
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—with the Falsies mascara; Luscious are a P&G company, and know that you will Color in shoes, fashion, handbag and have all the tools and support to mount the Bracelets—paired with “mother of all relaunchColor Gleam eyeshadows. es!” Enter the Miss Clairol What a great execution of re-launch, and without that the fashion strategy! name on the box! Now And these days, both called Clairol Professional brands are able to use soSoy 4Plex Liquicolor Percial marketing to magnify manente. Many compatheir fashion efforts milnies forsake their older lions-fold! How’s that for brands for the new and engagement and competmore wonderful, and itive edge? For most martherefore ultimately disketers, in all channels of continue them. Few go distribution, color promo- New life for an old brand. through the tremendous tions are still marketing effort and technology cost tools, but without the extra impetus of to re-launch, especially when the educathe fashion connection or other breakout tion required to assure a successful transiideas, they look pretty predictable and tion is enormous. Imagine the risk and blurred, with little competitive advan- difficulty of converting stylists (who have tage—or real, must-have, impulse rele- the L’Oréal option) to a new shade numvance to consumers. bering system for a 50+ year-old brand. Kudos to P&G and Clairol for a job well done. Now for the implementation! Clairol’s Big Step We first saw it at the Long Beach ISSE How and when do you take the huge step/chance/gamble of re-launching/re- professional show. Continuous platform vitalizing a 50+ year-old brand—especially demonstrations, continuous parade of finwhen it’s the one product line that literally ished models with a large variety of hair built the entire blonding business? That’s colors as examples, and most noticeable— right,“Does She. . . or Doesn’t She?”—one of their very shiny hair—all to demonstrate the best slogans of all time (Can’t resist these the key benefit, better conditioning. And to other two iconic Miss Clairol slogans: ”Is it top it off, virtually unlimited complete true that blondes have more fun?”“If I have packages, for the asking. We asked for six only one life, let me live it as a blonde.”) complete kits to bring to our stylist. No And, it’s also the one product most associ- problem. Good to have money, isn’t it? ated with your brand image to the profes- Clairol has been mostly absent from beauty sional trade and consumer? You do it when shows in recent years. Now they have you’ve been wringing your hands as dimin- something to shout about! • ishing volume and share, coupled with *For a view of how distribution has changed, send strong competitive entries, finally make you an e-mail to
[email protected] for say –“it’s now or never!” And also, when you the chart that previously appeared in this column.
☺
happi.com
May 2011
The Sunscreen Filter
IN
THE S UN , IN THE D ARK
Are today’s sunscreens actually doing more harm than good to consumers?
A
Nadim Shaath Alpha Research & Development Ltd Dr. Nadim Shaath is the president of Alpha Research & Development Ltd., a consulting firm in White Plains, NY, specializing in sunscreen formulations and new product ideas in cosmetics, essential oils and ultraviolet filters. He has over 30 years of experience as chairman of the chemistry department at SUNY-Purchase, the technical director at Felton, the president of Nickstadt-Moeller, Inc. and the CEO of Kato Worldwide. He can be reached at
[email protected]
74 • happi
a false sense of security among consumers? When we use sunscreens for protection, are we truly covered? Are we in the dark when we are in the sun? In the upcoming installments of THE SUNSCREEN FILTER, I will attempt to shed some light on these questions. I have been collaborating with two prominent scientists, namely Dr. Steven Q. Wang, M.D., director of dermatologic surgery and dermatology, Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center, and Dr. Olga Dueva-Koganov, vice president of R&D, Integrated Botanical Technologies. Their recent work is especially relevant to our topic. It has been estimated that in 2009, nearly 69,000 individuals were diagnosed with skin cancer in the U.S. That year, nearly 9,000 people in this country died due to RE WE ENCOURAGING
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melanoma. As more people develop melanoma, we are faced with the reality that sun exposure has consequences that sun care products alone cannot address. Last month, Dr. Wang published an informative and useful book with The Johns Hopkins University Press entitled Beating Melanoma: A Five Step Survival Guide.1 The book is timely since incidences of melanoma have risen dramatically during the past 50 years. In his book, Dr. Wang details melanoma’s profound effect on a patient on many levels: physically, psychologically, emotionally and economically. When first diagnosed with melanoma, patients react with a range of emotions from surprise, denial, frustration and confusion to fear and even despair. Many patients say that they feel themselves losing control as soon as this process starts. Dr. Wang addresses this May 2011
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Steven Q. Wang’s new book debuted earlier this year. It is available from The Johns Hopkins University Press.
range of emotions when he writes,“There is no doubt that you will go through an intense and stressful period from the time of diagnosis to the time when you complete treatment.” In the book, Dr. Wang addresses two phases of concerns faced by the patient. In the first phase, a period referred to as the “mad rush,” many patients must quickly learn about the disease, seek experts near their home, and decide on treatment options. Patients agree that this is a highly stressful time. When they finally start treatment, many people described the process as chaotic and that they have lost control over their lives. After a successful transition through this phase, many people with melanoma feel a transient relief.
Long-Term Concerns At some point after treatment, however, 76 • happi
most people who have had melanoma grapple with a fresh wave of questions and nagging concerns. They enter the second phase, the “marathon” period. They wonder if they will develop new melanoma or get other skin cancers. They wonder whether they need more treatments. They worry that their children and their siblings will get skin cancer too. The remaining chapters deal with networking and the checklist for beating melanoma. The book is a must read for anyone diagnosed with skin cancer and all practitioners in their field. U.S. sunscreen trends lean toward the highest possible SPF protection, yet we may question whether higher SPFs actually result in greater protection. There is also an ongoing debate if an SPF 100 sunscreen is needed. The answer may depend on how much sunscreen you apply. “Most people apply 25 to 50% of the amount of sunscreen used to determine SPF,” according to James M. Spencer, MD, of Mount Sinai School of Medicine. “Go easy on an SPF 100, and you’re still left with an SPF of about 30.”2 Dr. Olga Dueva-Koganov has been one of the leading scientists defining and refining in-vitro sunscreen testing in the U.S., especially as it pertains to photostability and UVA testing. She has published more than 60 scientific articles and has 20 patents/ patent applications. Her two recent articles on in-vitro testing address the challenges associated with facing the FDA proposed testing protocols3 and also high SPF products in the U.S.4 UVB and UVA portions of sunlight generate different biologic end-points in vivo. Erythema is used for the determination of happi.com
SPF factor (UVB protection). Persistent pigment darkening (PPD) is used for testing UVA-PF (UVA protection). Almost four years ago, the FDA published a proposed rule that included testing of sunscreen efficacy in vivo (SPF and UVA-PF) and in vitro (UVAI/UV ratio after pre-irradiation). The FDA proposed a Star system (0-4 Stars) to assess the amount of UVAI protection to complement the SPF and UVA-PF in vivo ratings and to ensure balanced and photostable UVA/UVB protection.5 While awaiting the FDA’s final ruling, the U.S. sunscreen industry has responded to the perceived consumer desire by launching eight SPF 100+ products in 2010 and almost doubling this amount at the beginning of 2011. Dr. Dueva-Koganov evaluated UVAI/UV ratios of all 15 commercially available SPF 100+ sunscreen products (nine lotions and six sprays) introduced to the market in 2010 and at the beginning of 2011 according to the FDA proposed methodology5 with one modification—using Vitro Skin (N-19)6 as a suitable alternative substrate3 instead of roughened quartz plates. A pre-irradiation dose was delivered by Solar Simulator 16S300-002 (Air Mass 1.5) with XPS 400, a precision current source; and PMA2100 Radiometer with PMA2101 Detector (all from SolarLight Company, PA).7 Diffuse transmittance/absorbance measurements were conducted on Labsphere UV 2000S and Version 1.2 software was employed to calculate the UVAI/UV ratio.8 Description of the test products and their respective UVAI/UV ratios after pre-irradiation are presented in the table on p. 78. Sunscreen manufacturers developed products with the highest SPF 100+ values by utilizing FDA approved actives in optimized delivery systems in conjunction with photostabilizing/SPF boosting technologies, film-forming polymers, antioxidants, plant-derived ingredients, and particulates (silica, modified silica) that help to improve product efficacy.4 Experimental data show that UVAI/UV ratios of SPF 100+ sunscreen products launched in the U.S. in 2010-2011 can not achieve four-star ratings. They fall in the May 2011
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narrow range of 0.80-0.85 and belong to the proposed “High UVA Protection” category (Three Stars) while failing to fulfill the “Highest UVA Protection” criterion (Four Stars). There was no increase in UVAI/UV ratios of the SPF 100+ products launched in 2011 versus products launched in 2010.4 This indicates that the highest UVAI/UV ratio or Four Stars, for sunscreens with SPF
100+ cannot be achieved with the use of sunscreen actives currently approved in the U.S. Approval of a new sunscreen monograph and new UV filters are expected from the FDA sometime in 2011, we’ve been told. The FDA’s ruling and approval will provide the sunscreen industry with finalized in vitro testing methodology and new sunscreen actives that will enable the de-
UVAI/UV Ratios of Commercially Available SPF 100+ Products* Product
UVAI/UV Ratio
Name
A
Neutrogena Spectrum+ Advanced Sunblock Lotion SPF 100+ Helioplex 360 full spectrum UVA/UVB Waterproof
0.83
B
Neutrogena Spectrum+ Face Advanced Sunblock Lotion SPF 100+ Helioplex 360 full spectrum UVA UVB Waterproof
0.84
C
Neutrogena AgeShield Face Sunblock Lotion SPF 110 Helioplex broad spectrum UVA/UVB Waterproof
0.80
D
Neutrogena UltraSheer Dry-Touch Sunblock SPF 100+ Helioplex Broad spectrum UVA/UVB Waterproof
0.82
E
Aveeno Active Naturals Continuous Protection Sunblock Lotion SPF 100+ Face active photobarrier complex Broad UVA/UVB protection Waterproof
0.84
F
Neutrogena Ultimate Sport Sunblock Spray SPF 100+ Helioplex broad spectrum UVA/UVB Waterproof
0.81
G
Coppertone ultraguard Sunscreen Lotion SPF 100+ Broad Spectrum UVA/UVB Protection Photostable Waterproof
0.82
H
Banana Boat Sport Performance ActiveMAX Protect Broad Spectrum Sunscreen—SPF 100 AvoTriplex Very Water Resistant
0.85
I
BB Sport Performance Active Max Protect Continuous Spray SPFUVB 110 High UVA Very Water/Sweat Resistant
0.81
J
CVS Ultra Dry Sheer Lotion Sunscreen SPF 100+ Solatec Photostable UVA/UVB protection—Water Resistant
0.82
K
CVS Fast Cover Continuous Clear Sport Spray SPF 100 Solatec Photostable UVA/UVB protection Water and Sweat Resistant
0.81
L
Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Body Mist Sunblock SPF 100+ Helioplex broad spectrum uva uvb waterproof
0.81
M
Coppertone Sport Clear Continuous Spray SPF 100+ Very Sweat Resistant Broad Spectrum UVA/UVB Protection
0.84
N
Neutrogena Spectrum+ Advanced Sunblock Spray SPF 100+ Helioplex 360 full spectrum UVA/UVB - Waterproof Sweatproof
0.82
O
Coppertone Sport High Performance Broad Spectrum UVA/UVB Sunscreen SPF 100+ Ultra Sweatproof Waterproof
0.82
*Products A-H were launched in 2010 and Products I-O were launched in 2011.
78 • happi
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velopment of ultimate sunscreen products with SPF 100+ and higher UVAI/UV ratios. Until an effective list of active ingredients is established and methodological standards are set, more independent research and analysis is necessary. Many dedicated individuals have been working on these issues. A recent book published by the Royal Society of Chemistry, which I have assisted in editing, is a must read for anyone working in the field of sunscreens and photoprotection. This themed issue on topical and systemic photoprotection includes 25 chapters published by the top scientists and institutions worldwide. It deals with topics ranging from protection and sun damage to testing, safety, photostability, UVA issues and ultra violet filter reviews.9 Consumers may not be as protected as they imagine. The highest level of SPF available in the U.S. does not provide the highest level of protection. Does the sun care industry suffer from exaggerated claims or overly rigorous standards? Currently, it appears unnecessarily difficult to provide the highest quality products and clearly communicate their capabilities and limitations. Until the FDA approves updated ingredients and regulates standards, we are all in the dark. •
References: 1. Steven Q. Wang,“Beating Melanoma: A Five Step Survival Guide”, The John Hopkins University Press, 2011 2. http://www.oprah.com/health/The-Benefitsof-SPF-100 3. Dueva-Koganov et al. Addressing Technical Challenges Associated with FDA Proposed Rules for UVA In Vitro Testing Procedure. J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 587-598 (2009) 4. Olga V. Dueva-Koganov and Nadim A. Shaath. HAPPI, December 2010, pp.48-53 5. Federal Register, 21 CFR Parts 347 and 352 Sunscreen Drug Products for Over- The-Counter Human Use; Proposed Amendment of Final Monograph; Proposed Rule, 72(165), 4907049122, §352.71, (2007) 6. http://www.ims-usa.com 7. http://www.solarlight.com 8. http://www.labsphere.com/data/userFiles 9. Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences Vol. 9, No.4 April 2010 May 2011
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on business success, HBA Global provides a premier educational, scientific, technological and business-oriented conference program to give attendees the most diverse and pressing insight available on the latest developments and trends in beauty and personal care. Taking place June 28-30, 2011 at the Javits Center in New York, the HBA Global Expo & Conference offers five educational tracks that provide unprecedented learning experiences addressing issues that will deliver the most impact to your brands, business and professional development. ITH AN EYE
Green Speakers will introduce various technical advancements and business strategies for developing greener and authentic personal care products. Sustainability and naturals from A to Z will be covered including launching a successful green product, naturally derived products and processes, industry trends and philanthropy initiatives. Hear from the green movement’s biggest players including Aveda, Burt’s Bees, Estée Lauder, Weleda, Environmental Packaging International, Global Institute Bioexploration and Kahina Giving Beauty.
Marketing Inspired content in this track will bring attention and increase sales to your brands or new lines across diverse channels and demographics. This core track features top 80 • happi
beauty brands and retailers dishing on the hottest trends, distribution channels, social media strategies and winning tools of the trade to drive sales. Hear from a who’s who in the industry including top executives from Maybelline, Laura Mercier, Hautelook, Living Proof, Duane Reade, Stila, QVC, Colgate-Palmolive, Organic Male, Bloomingdale’s, Redken/Pureology and Fusion Brands.
Technical Creating innovative products quickly and ahead of the competition is what drives the beauty and personal care industry, and the technical track covers all aspects of a product’s lifecycle. Sessions include changing global regulations, active ingredients, new technologies and new research revolutionizing the beauty and personal care industry. Esteemed speakers come from Coty, Estée Lauder, J&J, Princeton University, Sadick Dermatology, Unilever and, for the first time, members of the Controlled Release Society.
International With an industry that is becoming increasingly multicultural, multiethnic and multidiversified, the international track is timelier than ever. Sessions will provide you with a roadmap on how to expand your business globally and how to sell in high growth countries. The track will kick off with a strategic overview of global cosmetic happi.com
market and worldwide trends presented by Karen Grant of The NPD Group.
Skin Care Another high growth product category— skin care—has its own track. With consumers of all ages and demographics wanting high performance products, this category is experiencing a surge in innovation and demand. The skin care track will feature leading experts going skin deep into new technological breakthroughs, novel ingredients, the latest in anti-aging, trends for the market and future developments. This new track opens with a powerful session on Total Body Skincare led by skin pioneer Dr. Howard Murad.
Conference Program Redesigned The HBA Conference Program has also been redesigned to make a customized learning experience accessible to all. Attendees can pick an all-day-pass for Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday giving them access to that day’s tracks and sessions or mix and match their days with a six-, four- or two-session pass. HBA also offers the popular value package, the Platinum Pass, which gives unrestricted access to the entire program. The HBA Conference offers an unparalleled world of new ideas and opportunities, register online to receive pre-show discounts at www.hbaexpo.com and use code: PHAPE. • May 2011
Microbiological Quality Of Consumer Products The Consumer Specialty Products Association surveys the practices used to ensure microbiological quality of household and institutional products by focusing on raw material controls, finished product quality and process hygiene. Phil Geis, The Procter & Gamble Company & Tony Rook, The Sherwin-Williams Company for the CSPA Microbiology Subcommittee
M
is a critical quality element for many consumer products. For foods, drugs and cosmetics, microbiological quality finds a considerable body of practical knowledge, especially concerning raw material control, finished product testing and manufacturing hygiene.1,2,3 In addition to the good efforts of the respective industries, potential health risks due to gross microbial contamination have the attention of regulatory bodies around the world that address these via recalls and bans of the offending product.4,5 For household products such as cleaners, detergents, fabric softeners and air fresheners, microbial quality is typically not a concern as public health risk due to contamination is not so evident. The most likely consequence of microbial contamination would be compromised product quality and performance. Technical reports of microbial contamination of household and related products have been relatively rare as have health-related recalls of contaminated household products.6,7,8,9 Most surprising are the fortunately infrequent reports of contaminated disinfectants.10,11 The rarity of such reports is probably attributable to product formulation characteristics that often mitigate microbial risk including high surfactant levels, solvents, pHs closer to the boundaries for microbial growth, chelators and, for some products, disinfectant actives. These historically have been sufficient to minimize the 82 • happi
ICROBIAL INTEGRITY
occurrence of contaminated household products. In recent decades, many of these barriers have been diminished if not eliminated by regulations limiting solvent use12 and efforts to formulate with green and environmentally-sustainable components and processes.13 Despite the trend toward less hostile formulations, it is somewhat of a surprise that there has not been an increase in the occurrence of microbial contamination of household products. Although microbes can adapt to grow in fairly radical physical and chemical environments, microbial issues in household and similar products appear to be rare even with the movement to less hostile formulations. This may be attributed to controls and quality elements not generally known or discussed in the industry. Therefore, to explore and understand current industry practices, surveys were conducted which focused on three key areas: raw material controls, finished product quality and process hygiene.
Approach Surveys were conducted in 2010 by the Consumer Specialty Product Association’s Microbiology subcommittee of the Cleaning Products Division. The subcommittee developed focused questionnaires of 10-12 directed questions for the specific topics: raw material testing, finished product testing and manufacturing hygiene. These surveys were distributed to major North American and European manufacturers of happi.com
household and commercial products. The responses were collected, collated, summarized and are the subject of this article. Responses were obtained from the U.S. and Western European manufacturers with 13 sets of surveys completed and returned.
Raw Materials Responses indicated a high frequency of testing of raw materials and finished products, focused largely on perceived risk for microbial contamination and driven by factors such as history of contamination, water content, performance in susceptibility testing and potential risk to consumers. For raw materials, some accept supplier certificates of analysis for microbiological quality but virtually all take direct responsibility for finished product quality. Variation in microbiological limits and methodology were reported (Tables 1 and 2, respectively). The majority of the respondents set microbial limits at 100 or 1000cfu/g or ml.
Table 1 – Specified Microbial Limits Total Microbial Count
Raw Finished Materials Products
10 cfu/g or ml
2
-
100 cfu/g or ml
6
6
300 cfu/g or ml
-
3
1000 cfu/g or ml
6
1
10000 cfu/g or ml
-
-
Other (not specified)
1
May 2011
• Microbial Integrity
Table 2 – Protocols (Methods) for Microbial Detection Detection Method
Raw Finished Materials Products
Dipstick
1
1
USP*
3
2
Plate Count**
7
9
Enrichment***
2
3
Rapid Method****
-
3
*United States Pharmacopeia 61 Microbiological Examination of Nonsterile Products: Microbial Enumeration Tests **Trypticase soy agar, Cetrimide, Sabouraud, MacConkey and Potato dextrose agars *** Letheen, Tetrathionate, Lauryl tryptose, Modified tween letheen and “MLAT” broths. **** Celsis, Bactometer, “ATP.”
Methods included plate counts, the most frequently reported, as well as enrichment methods and in a few cases, rapid methods. A variety of general and selective media
were reportedly used. For microbial limits, respondents were asked: • If raw materials or finished products are tested against a specification for total count, what are the specific numerical limits? Microbes of specific significance were identified for potential pathogens such as Staphylococcus aureus and Salmonella spp. as well as those likely to negatively affect product esthetics or functionality such as Burkholderia spp. or molds. For methodology, respondents were asked: • If raw materials are tested for microbial contamination, what protocols are used? The same question was asked for finished products. Responses are summarized in Table 2. Some respondents reported that products that do not meet microbial quality parameters can be reworked (treated) to
Table 3 – Cleaning and Sanitization Practices % of Respondents Conducting this Activity
Locations
General Housekeeping
Cleaning Sanitization
100
N/A
Bulk Storage Tanks
85
69
Process Tanks
100
85
Filling Lines & Equipment
92
100
Pumps
85
92
Flexible Hoses
92
100
Pipe Connections
85
77
Other Locations
38
38
eliminate the microbial contamination. These findings often provoke more frequent testing of raw materials and finished products. In addition, microbiological testing of the manufacturing process/environment may be implemented to determine and mitigate the root cause of the contamination.
Process Hygiene The survey responses indicate that many manufacturers/suppliers within the household products and related industries have validated cleaning/sanitization processes. Even though the methods vary, there clearly is a general understanding of the importance of manufacturing “plant” hygiene on product quality. One aspect of a hygiene program, such as continuous microbiological monitoring of the process equipment, seems to be well understood and is generally utilized for assessing microbiological hygiene within the manufacturing environment. Questions were included to assess the current state of process cleaning and sanitization (C&S) practices within the manufacturing facility. The respondents indicated that the majority of manufacturers understand the importance of both cleaning and sanitization. The main focus of C&S appears to be on the mixing and filling processes. Of the 13 company responses, 12 indicated some level of cleaning of the filling line equipment and flexible hoses, while 13 indicated sanitization of this equipment. Refer to Table 3 for a list and 84 • happi
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May 2011
Microbial Integrity
Table 4 – Validation/ Documentation of Cleaning/Sanitization within Manufacturing Validation Activity
Written Validation Protocol
% Following this Activity
85
Routine Documentation Logs
100
Status Labeling of Equipment
77
Other Form of Documentation
46
comparison of cleaning and sanitization locations. The participants were queried on whether their current cleaning and sanitization practices are validated and documented. Of the 13 respondents, 85% indicated they are following validated protocols for cleaning and/or sanitization. Routine documentation logs were maintained by 100% of the respondents, however, a smaller percentage (46%) of the responses
•
Table 5 – Design & Maintenance of the Consumer Products Manufacturing Facility
indicated the use of other forms of documentation, such as operator checklists, recordbooks, or some form of electronic databases. Despite the focus on validating cleaning/sanitization processes, the industry metrics for determining effectiveness varied. Some companies use surface swabs to verify the microbiological quality of the production surfaces following C&S. Companies using surface swabs may or may not apply an acceptance criteria, such as < 25 CFU/cm2. The metric used most frequently to assess cleaning, as indicated by the highest percentage of responses (38%), is visual inspection of the process. Other more analytical methods are employed by a lower percentage of respondents: conductivity (23%), foam tests (15%), grease test (8%) and TOC (8%). Others indicated they did not perform verification following cleaning/santization activities. Table 4 summarizes validation activities currently being performed around cleaning and/or sanitization processes.
% Considering this Aspect
Sanitary Design Aspect
Slope of Process Lines
85
Material of Construction of Process Lines
92
Dead-Leg Minimization
77
Clean-in-Place Systems
62
Air Handling Systems
62
Water Quality
77
A question to understand the consumer products industry’s consideration of plant design and maintenance in addressing hygiene was asked: • Does your facility consider hygiene and sanitization during the design and/or maintenance of manufacturing buildings, facilities and processes?
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happi • 85
• Microbial Integrity
Table 6 – Method for Selection of Hygiene Continuous Monitoring Locations Method
% Using Method
Hazard Analysis & Critical Control Points (HACCP) or similar
38
Hygiene Audits
46
Failure Mode and Effects Analysis (FMEA)
23
Other Methods
23
The majority of the respondents (85%) responded yes. The industry seems to be well aware of hygienic design principles but continues to struggle with the engineering designs of legacy manufacturing facilities. When considering sanitary design for the manufacturing of consumer product, the majority of respondents have considered
the following: slope of process lines, material of construction of process lines, minimization of dead-legs within the process, clean-in-place systems, air handling systems and water quality. In addition, the following types of equipment are considered/ assessed: pumps, gaskets, piping, piping connections, valves, and hoses. Table 5 summarizes design and maintenance considerations among the respondents. Lastly, to gain an understanding of continuous monitoring practices in the manufacturing environment, participants were asked: • Does your company perform continuous monitoring of the manufacturing environment and/or equipment, in regards to microbiological hygiene? The majority (77%) of the respondents perform microbiological monitoring. Even though a large number of responding companies indicated they use continuous mon-
itoring as a tool for measuring micro- biological hygiene within their processes, the methods for selecting sampling locations as well as the sampling locations vary. A summary of the methods employed to determine sampling locations and for current sampling locations considered are provided in Tables 6 and 7, respectively. The microbiological method used for continuous monitoring is most frequently the traditional surface swab method (85%) for assessing equipment surfaces. A smaller percentage relied on testing the final rinse water (46%) or using direct contact plates, such as Rodac (15%). The media of choice for microbial recovery during continuous monitoring was Trypticase Soy Agar (62%). A majority of respondents (77%) assess the microbiological quality of water by testing process water. A considerably lower number of companies are testing either rinse water (38%) or reuse water (15%). The microbiological media used for testing of water revealed that approximately half (48%) of the respondents used TSA, while the other half (48%) reported using R2A.
Conclusions Considering the remarkable versatility of microbes to survive if not flourish in a surprising range of environments,14 concerns and necessary controls reported in these surveys should come as no surprise. Elements of specific focus reported here include quality of raw materials and products, and systems hygiene driven by concerns such as consumer risk, history of contamination and preservation status. In many cases, suppliers provide raw material testing and risk assessments. Specifications and microbiological methods for both raw materials and finished products vary greatly between responses and include a wider range of specified microbial limits than those traditionally specified for cosmetics and drugs. Objectionable microbes include both potential pathogens and those that can compromise product acceptability and functionality. Treatment or rework of raw materials and finished products is practiced by some. The findings of this study revealed that the household and institutional products 86 • happi
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May 2011
Microbial Integrity
Table 7 – Monitoring Locations of Hygiene Programs Locations
% that Sample Location
Process Lines
54
Mixing/Storage Vessels
77
Filling Lines and/ or Equipment
77
industries’ respective guidelines. Both as guidance for new entrants to the household and commercial markets and to facilitate sharing of knowledge within this industry, development of unified general standards guidance would be of great utility. Similar efforts have greatly served the food, drug and cosmetic industries and this will be the objective of CSPA microbiology subcommittee in coming months. •
Pumps
46
Flexible Hoses
69
Valves
54
Pigs and Pigging Systems
31
Phil Geis, PhD, The Procter & Gamble Co.; Email:
[email protected]
Strainer Equipment
46
References:
industry has a sound understanding of the need and significance of microbiological quality. This industry invests in the same efforts of raw material and finished product control as industries whose microbiological quality issues, standards and practices are better known. In 2003, the Personal Care Products Council (formerly the Cosmetic Fragrance and Toiletry Association) microbiology committee reported results from a survey of member companies regarding preservative effectiveness testing (PET) practices.15 It found PET to be common among all cosmetic companies. A preceding survey (data not presented) conducted by the CSPA microbiology subcommittee among a smaller number of household and institutional product companies, many of which were respondents in the surveys reported here, also found a substantial number conducting testing to qualify product preservative systems. These PET studies are typically executed with standard microbial isolates as well as microbial isolates unique to products and manufacturing systems. It is clear that microbiologically relevant testing and quality efforts are a common and effective practice in the household and institutional products industry. Such protocols apparently have been developed in isolation and therefore vary considerably across the industry. By contrast, manufacturers of foods, drugs and cosmetics are heavily invested in microbial quality and enjoy a substantial level of guidance by the May 2011
•
More Information:
1. Jay, M.J., Loessner, M.J. and Golden, D.A., 2005, Modern Food Microbiology, 7th Edition. Food Science Text Series. p. 751. 2. Hugo, W.B. and Russell, E.D. (ed’s) 1977 Pharmaceutical Microbiology, Blackwell Scientific Publications, pp. 479. 3. Geis, P.A. (ed). 2006. Cosmetic Microbiology: A Practical Handbook 2nd Edition. Taylor & Francis, pp. 295. 4. U.S. FDA enforcement reports: http://www.fda.gov/Safety/Recalls/EnforcementReports/default.htm 5. European enforcement reports: http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/dyna/rapex/ra pex_archives_en.cfm 6. Beadle, I.R. and Verran, O. 1999. The survival and growth of an environmental Klebsiella isolate in detergent solutions. J. Appl. Micro. 87: 764–769. 7. Tirodkar, R.B. and Menon, A.B. 1983. Microbial Spoilage of Water Based Paints. Journal of the Colour Society, July/Sept: 10-15. 8. http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtm l00/00001.htm 9. http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/pr html95/95071.html 10. Ehrenkranz, N.J, Bolyard, E.A., Wiener, M. and Cleary, T.J. 1980. Antibiotic-sensitive Serratia marcescens infections complicating cardiopulmonary operations: contaminated disinfectant as reservoir. The Lancet 316:1289-1292 11. Weber, D.J., Rutala, W.A. and SickbertBennett, E.E. 2007. Outbreaks Associated with Contaminated Antiseptics and Disinfectants. Antimic. Agents Chemother. 51:4217-4224. 12. http://www.arb.ca.gov/consprod/regs/ regs.htm 13. http://www.aboutcleaningproducts. com/ 14. Trotsenko,Y.A. and Khmelenina, V.N. 2002. Biology of extremophilic and extremotolerant methanotrophs. Archiv. Microbiol. 177:123-131. 15. The Cosmetic, Toiletry, Fragrance Association. 2003. CTFA preservative challenge and stability testing happi.com
happi • 87
PersonalCare
Preservatives for all your Personal Care formulations Lonza offers a variety of actives to ensure the integrity of your skin care products.
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A MATTER OF Self-Preservation If marketers think that they can rework formulations and remove tried-and-true preservation systems, they face the prospect of contamination and, ultimately, backlash from consumers and health authorities. Tom Branna • Editorial Director
A
ND THEN there was one? Now, nobody is suggesting that public opinion and international regulations will ultimately narrow preferred preservative lists to a single ingredient, but there’s no doubt that non-government organizations and regulators have swayed the preservation conversation in recent years— much to the detriment of product stability, insist some industry observers. Nearly every supplier contacted by HAPPI agrees that the industry has been impacted by articles and data that exaggerate the dangers of preservatives. Rosita Nunez, manager, commercial development, preservatives, Lonza, noted that some of them are not scientifically sound and many are misleading. “Every few months, we receive inquiries from different customers asking about the validity of these same articles and data,”she explained. “We spend a good deal of time providing scientifically based information to our customers in response.” According to Dan Beio, VP-R&D, RITA Corp., the biggest challenge that the industry faces regarding preservatives is education. “The typical consumer just doesn’t have a good understanding of the need for preservation,” he observed. “They are being told by the press and some marketing companies that preservatives are toxic, harmful to humans, harmful to the environment and that they are possibly not needed. And, if you take the data out of context, you can see how they would come to these conclusions.” Need an example? Just last month, in
May 2011
an April 11 issue of The New York Times, actress Mary Louise Parker attributed her good looks to clean living, a vegan diet and “trying to stay away from products containing parabens.”
Wrong Conclusions It’s one thing for Hollywood-types to get their chemistry wrong. But when formulators come to a wrong conclusion, it can have an impact on public safety. Industry veteran David Steinberg, president of Steinberg & Associates, Inc., noted that he’s been getting more frequent phone calls from formulators who are complaining about contaminated batches. According to Steinberg, the higher frequency of contamination is frequently the result of chemists moving away from parabens and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives. “(Formulators) give marketing whatever it wants and the end result can be contaminated batches,” asserted Steinberg. “So the question becomes, does marketing want to take care of these issues or pay more for strictly complying with GMPs?” In fact, Steinberg asserts that some major companies are quietly moving back to parabens because they know that these preserhappi.com
vatives work and that there is no evidence that they are not safe. “Parabens are back, we are supplying more material than ever, even to customers who were planning on removing the material from their products,”said Manny Balsamides Jr. of Protameen Chemical. “Most customers found that natural preservatives were not nearly as functional as parabens.” He added that in their rush to remove parabens from their products, formulators were quick to try natural preservatives with no historical data to prove their stability. While controversies with the media and NGOs cause problems for the industry, there are other issues that create headaches for suppliers. Andrea Wingenfeld, ISP’s global business manager, preservatives, said that The shower is a breeding ground for bacteria in poorly-preserved shampoos.
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• Preservatives
Who knows what bacteria may be floating around in your formula?
many personal care producers use similar preservatives in their plants, which heightens the risk that so-called “house bugs” may develop—bugs that need to be controlled by a high level of hygiene or increased preservative levels. “A well balanced preservative system containing different active ingredients in the right ratios will help to protect the product against spoilage, and at the same time, help to maintain low preservative dosage ranges, an important route to ‘responsible care for the end-user,’”she noted.
EU OKs Parabens Even European regulators have confirmed the safety of parabens. In December, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) published a paper titled “Opinion on Parabens.”The SCCS considers the use of butylparaben and propylparaben as preservatives in finished cosmetic products to be safe for the consumer, provided that the sum of their individual concentrations does not exceed 0.19%. This is a significant reduction from their old opinion of 0.4% for each. Other parabens, including methyland ethylparaben, are considered safe at concentrations of 0.4% or up to 0.8% combined. They also concluded that the isos (isopropylparaben and isobutylparaben) needed more data before that could recommend their continued use. “I have mixed feelings about the ruling,” said Steinberg, who noted that his third edition of Cosmetics for Preservatives is due out later this year.“The bad news is that the ruling will require reformulation. The good news is that formulators were using too much anyway and the methyl and ethyl are 90 • happi
the most water soluble and effective.” What’s more, many of the SCCS rulings don’t mean all that much because they are not binding until the European Commission publishes these as Adaptations to Technical Progress (ATPs) and amends the Cosmetic Directive or Regulations. Many SCCS recommendations, according to Steinberg, languish in limbo as the Commission never acts on them. “About seventy-five percent of SCCS opinions are never acted upon,” he asserted. Maybe so, but industry suppliers are still watching these developments carefully. “Parabens are among the safest and most effective antifungal preservatives for use in cosmetics,” explained Linda Sedlewicz, country manager, schülke.“They are also relatively inexpensive, making them difficult to replace. The biggest threat to the use of parabens in personal care products today is the ban on branchedchain parabens proposed by the SCCS and the proposed Danish ban on all parabens for use in children’s products designed for use by kids under the age of 3.” According to Sedlewicz, the ban will likely cause a further marketing backlash against all parabens. “The Personal Care Product Council (PCPC) has been strenuously opposing these bans,” she noted. “Their opinion is that the parabens used in the production of personal care products are safe as used. This is also the opinion of most of the industry and supported by a significant amount of data and a history of safe use.” In fact, the industry is addressing this issue by providing resources that consumers can access that provide information about the benefits of using preservatives to keep personal care products safe, noted Nunez. The PCPC, working with the industry, has created informational videos that are available on cosmeticsinfo.org, as well as on youtube.com. But sometimes, concerted efforts by suppliers and industry associations isn’t enough. “Even if considered safe by the SCCS of the European Commission, we still see a happi.com
general trend to formulate without parabens,” said Jose Mosquera, global strategic marketing manager, Dow Microbial Control. “Therefore, we, at Dow Microbial Control offer a complete portfolio of products to preserve and protect cosmetics formulations, including effective alternatives to parabens.” Mosquera said he anticipates new formulations to be preserved with alternatives to parabens while existing products would not be reformulated immediately. At the same time, cosmetics manufacturers are addressing this issue by reducing the occurrence of microbial contamination by working in more “clean-room” type environments. Moreover, he warned that the common marketing tactic that proclaims products to be “free of” certain ingredients is taking its toll on product safety. “As a consequence, other less known and less tested ingredients are entering cosmetics formulations,”according to Mosquera, who noted that regulators have lists of approved preservatives in many regions such as the EU.“However, the reality is that many approved preservatives are not used because of their negative public perceptions,” he observed. Tal Green, personal care business unit manager, Sharon Laboratories Ltd., noted that the industry has been facing requests for non-preservative formulas or greener options in the past couple of years. Some customers are aiming for trends like shortchain parabens, others are trying to move toward options like organic acids combinations or non-preservative systems. “The bad reputation that parabens have gained in the last few years was proved to have no scientific foundation,” noted Green. “Although we provide a wide array of other options regarding preservative systems, we know that most of the manufacturers of cosmetics continue to use parabens and the numbers speak for themselves. Many companies continue to work with parabens or short-chain parabens, although in some cases they keep looking for other solutions for new lines. The popular alternatives are the organic acid May 2011
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• Preservatives
Sure, a product can get contaminated in the plant, but it can also happen after it gets into the hands of consumers.
preservative systems.” In fact, Green asserts that the actions taken by the NGOs and marketers have not affected the availability and consumption of traditional preservatives. “Although there is a niche following the green trend, we can say—based on the segmentation of our sales and the demands we are facing from our customers—that this is a rather small market that doesn’t affect the main mass market.” Sharon Labs is providing other solutions to meet the green trend. For example,
there has been an increase in the consumption of organic acids and these blends have become popular. “All the preservative ingredients allowed by the legislation are available and still in use,” Green asserted. Yet, the wide-ranging debate on preservatives continues to take its toll. According to Wingenfeld, on-going debate about preservative safety and pending plans by regulatory agencies to phase out some technologies may ultimately impact the type and number of preservatives available. “For example, methyldibromoglutaronitrile is one preservative technology on the way out,” she told HAPPI. “Others may follow, further reducing preservation choices.”
The Problem with Natural Regardless of how regulators vote, there’s no doubt that the limited number of preservatives that are available to formulators has severely impacted product safety
as well as product performance. According to Beio, many of the “acceptable”preservatives being utilized are not as effective on a per-gram basis as many that are finding their way on to the do not use list. “Let’s face it, preservatives are toxins, that’s their job,” he told HAPPI.“At the right level with the right combination, they take care of microorganisms within a manufactured product and package. The key words here are ‘right level’ and ‘right combination.’ Taking this into account allows us to use the absolute minimum to get the job done.” He insists that some of the newer, more politically correct choices are not as effective and require very high levels in formulations. But, since they’re not as effective, they may not be able to kill all of the microorganisms as quickly as they once did. Moreover, Beio maintains that some of these levels have become so high, that they are now functioning as aesthetics ingredients in formulations, which requires the
Some people would go to any lengths to diminish the signs of aging.
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Preservatives
over use of other ingredients to compensate, like surfactants and emulsifiers, which can have their own negative effects of defatting and drying out the skin. “We are all trying to avoid any product contamination and the less effective preservatives we use, the greater the potential,” he said. Pat Lutz, president of Lincoln Manufacturing Inc., noted that it is a challenge to find all-natural or naturally-derived preservatives that are broad spectrum and cost effective like conventional preservatives. Lincoln says its new Linatural MBS (microbial blocking systems) are naturally-derived, inexpensive, preservative-free systems that block microorganisms from growing, thus keeping the formulation stable. “These systems give the customer the option for a cost effective alternative to preservatives that block a broad spectrum of microorganisms from contaminating the formulation while the customer can
claim preservative-free and no oils,” Lutz explained. He said that another big issue confronting the preservative market is having reliable domestic manufacturing and a direct contact manufacturing person to discuss preservative choices. Lutz pointed out that with more mergers and manufacturing taking place outside the U.S., customers cannot get the services they need and the product turn around that they require. “Lincoln Fine Ingredients has added to its commitment to address these issues by adding a Lincoln Manufacturing division last year and this year is expanding its capacity in Lincoln, RI to include three new reactors,” explained Lutz. The company has increased warehousing and distributing throughout the U.S. and the world, he added.
What’s New from Suppliers? According to Sedlewicz of schülke, the
•
ever-shrinking number of well-accepted actives is the biggest limiting factor for the preservative market. She said that schülke’s expertise is in the development of innovative blends of available materials with antimicrobial properties. “As the list of traditional preservatives at our disposal has become severely limited, we have focused our attention on more multifunctional materials,” said Sedlewicz. “Our most recent introduction, sensiva PA 20, is the result of our research into natureidentical materials.” According to Sedlewicz, sensiva PA 20 combines phenethyl alcohol, traditionally used as a fragrance ingredient, with ethylhexylglycerin for its preservative boosting effect.“The result is a biodegradable blend that can maintain the microbiological stability of a wide range of products,”she said. At In-Cosmetics in March, Dow Microbial Control introduced a new version of Kathon CG called Kathon CG III, a
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• Preservatives
proprietary formulation which does not use nitrate salts, for additional compatibility with surfactants and ease of formulation, according to Mosquera, who said that there is also strong demand for Dow Microbial Control’s Neolone MIT-based preservatives. Finally, this month, the company will
officially open a new customer application center in Australia. Sharon Labs recently purchased new production high-tech gear. The investment of more than €1 million includes a building addition and up-to-date devices dedicated to increase the company’s production ca-
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pacity. A new warehouse at Sharon Laboratories is now under construction by means of the latest technology in stock management. The state-of-the-art 3,800 square-meter facility is designed to sustain safety and environment as priorities, providing an operational and control system to improve procedures and increase stock holding capacity, according to the company. At press time, the first construction phase was scheduled to be complete by the end of April. The cost is estimated to be around €4 million. The investment in stock management and logistics is intended to strengthen the partnership with the customers. The goal is to expand the foundation for greater market supply. According to Green, Sharon Labs’ R&D is always innovating based on the needs of the clients, many times designing tailor-made blends for specific formulas. For example, Sharomix 705 Plus and Sharomix 706 Plus are paraben-, formaldehyde- and halogen-free. “When using organic acids in a preservative system, oxidation may occur, which is why Sharon Labs created Sharomix 705 Plus and Sharomix 706 Plus,” explained Green.“These new versions of the already acknowledged blends Sharomix 705 and 706 will enjoy the benefits of vitamin E as an antioxidant.” According to Sedlewicz, schülke is very focused on sustainability, both in its products and its processes. “We are ISO 14001 certified for our environmental management system and were one of the first companies in the area of our headquarters in Germany to have its environmental management system confirmed and validated in accordance with the European Eco-Management and Audit Scheme (EMAS),” she explained.“Many of our euxyl line of preservative blends and all of our sensiva line of preservative boosters are biodegradable and all are produced with a focus on sustainable processing and quality manufacturing.” Now, with the introduction of sensiva PA 20, schülke has a product that contains nature-identical phenethyl alcohol, boosted by ethylhexylglycerin, which can May 2011
Preservatives
be used to maintain the microbiological stability of a wide variety of product types, according to Sedlewicz. Lincoln Manufacturing has increased its capacity in Lincoln, RI, as well as adding new warehousing, sales staff and distributors throughout the U.S. and the world. At the same time, in the past 12 months, Lincoln has added 12 new preservatives, including eight in 2011 alone. These include two all-natural preservatives, Linatural NLP-T, based on turmeric and clove bud oil, and Linatural NLP-B, based on basil and clove bud oils. Lincoln has also expanded its global line of Lincoserve globally-approved alternative preservatives to include more blends from their domestic manufacturing, such as Lincoserve CG-2, 4 and 5 blends based on caprylyl glycol and phenoxyethanol. Finally, Lincocide IPBC-WS is a new, very unique, patent pending, water soluble fungicidal based on iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (IPBC) that also has other value added properties for formulations, according to Lutz. Lonza’s Geogard line of preservatives is now Soil Association and NaTrue approved. According to Nunez, both were already Ecocert compliant, so now Lonza offers a preservative system that can be used in certified organic products in a number of regions. ISP recently added Optiphen MIT Ultra, a patent-pending liquid blend of methylisothiazolinone with a booster that can be found naturally in flowers and fruits. This system addresses a range of regulatory, customer and formulator demands. The blend is applicable over a broad pH range, according to Sangeetha Subramanian, global marketing director, hair care and oral care, ISP. “We find that Optiphen MIT Ultra can be used to effectively preserve difficult-to-protect formulations,” she added. Still, no matter how many products are available to formulators, the long-term health of the industry still comes down to education, according to Beio. “We have preservatives that have been safely used for many years; we’ve develMay 2011
tives we’re using as they do about the overall performance of the products. “Preservatives, if properly used, are a good thing and add value to a product,”he continued.“Let’s stop being defensive and start becoming more offensive with our acquired knowledge.” •
oped very sophisticated testing and screening methods and we have great safety testing methodologies and historical data to draw upon to help us make smart decisions,”he explained.“This needs to be communicated to our customers, so they can feel as good about the preserva-
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No Appointment NECESSARY For consumers who want to hide the signs of aging without the downtime or breaking the bank, skin care marketers say they have the right prescription. A list of new skin care ingredients begins on p. 108. Christine Esposito • Associate Editor
B
ACK IN THE DAY,
when a woman wanted some “work done,” she set up an appointment with a dermatologist or plastic surgeon for what could lead to an expensive and invasive procedure that required a few days in seclusion and a big pair of sunglasses. While nips and tucks are still being booked, when it comes to hiding the signs of aging in 2011, more consumers are hitting the bottle—the skin care serum or cream bottle, that is. With increasingly sophisticated formulations, marketers are promising big payoffs from their non-prescription topical products which are designed to banish lines and wrinkles, slough off dead cells and restore luminosity. “There is so much science behind some of the latest skin care products. There has been a lot of work An industrial biotech company is jumping into skin care market with Algenist, a line formulated with alguronic acid.
May 2011
in elucidating the mechanism behind aging, sun damage and pigmentation that we are getting products which specifically address these mechanisms,” said Dr. Tess Maurico, founder of Scripps Ranch Dermatology & Cosmetic Center in San Diego, CA and Dr. Tess Dermatology in La Jolla, CA.“The industry is also working very hard in delivering products that are also better tolerated, safer and more effective than ever. The right skin care products can definitely do much more than feel good on your skin.” The anti-aging movement—backed with heavyweight advertising campaigns— has been rocket fuel for the skin care marketplace, propelling sales even during slower economic times. In fact, the prestige skin care market has been one of brightest stars in the beauty category overall. According to The NPD Group, Port Washing-
ton, NY, prestige skin care not only made up lost ground during the recession, it surpassed pre-recession levels, rising 8% to $2.7 billion in 2010. “Facial skin is one area where women continue to be most likely to invest and spend more,” said Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst with NPD. Premium face products—those $75 and above—experienced a 7% dollar increase from 2009, according to NPD’s data, far outpacing the growth of its mass market counterpart. For the 52 weeks ended March 20, sales of facial anti-aging products in supermarkets, drug stores and mass merchandisers (excluding Walmart) rose just over 2% to $796 million with units just about flat at 47.7 million, according to SymphonyIRI (see chart on next page).
Right at Home In response to growing interest in less invasive procedures to correct the signs of aging skin, marketers are promising consumers professional results from
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• Skin Care
topical products that can be used in the comfort of their own home with a price tag that’s more affordable. Take Avon’s Anew Clinical Lift and Firm Pro Serum. The direct seller says the new serum is the brand’s first topical serum with two injectable-grade ingredients—PVP and arginine. At $54, the treatment is said to make skin around the jaw line look and feel dramatically firmer after four weeks and make contours look refined and sculpted after two weeks. Procter & Gamble was one of the first to take the leap into the realm of professional mass with Olay ProX in 2008. Johnson & Johnson has followed suit with Neutrogena Clinical. This anti-aging line contains“multipatented Ion₂Complex,” a new technology that leverages bioelectricity, the native electric current that cells use for a variety of functions including signaling one another through cell-to-cell communication. According to J&J, the skin uses this positively charged ion flow to help maintain
Atopalm skin care products feature a patented multi lamellar emulsion system that mimics skin’s mixture of ceramides, cholesterols and fatty acids.
the ongoing creation of collagen, but as the body ages, the flow decreases, resulting in diminished cell-to-cell communication and decreased production of essential proteins, including collagen. By harnessing bioelectricity to facilitate optimal communication at the surface level of the skin, skin firm-
ness is restored for noticeably improved facial definition, and a reduction in the appearance of wrinkles and sagging skin. The Neutrogena Clinical range includes Facial Lifting Wrinkle Treatment SPF 30 ($39.99), which also contains Neutrogena’s exclusive Helioplex; Eye Lift Contouring Treatment ($39.99); a Lifting Wrinkle Treatment Starter System with SPF 30 and Eye ($49.99); and Facial Lifting Wrinkle Treatment Night ($39.99). Each is a two-step regimen that starts with the application of the Ion₂ Complex Gel Serum followed by an activating cream. Formulated with Tetrol-E (derived from amino acids), the activating cream maximizes the power of the Ion₂ Complex technology, delivering a visibly firmer and more lifted look, according to Neutrogena. In the direct sales channel, Amway’s Artistry brand is touting more clinical-like results via its new intensive renewing peel. When used twice weekly for six weeks, the peel provides benefits comparable to a
Anti-Aging Skin Care for the Masses For the 52 weeks ended March 20, sales of facial anti-aging products in supermarkets, drug stores and mass merchandisers (excluding Walmart) rose just over 2% to $796 million with units just about flat at 47.7 million, according to SymphonyIRI. Here is a look at the top 10 brands in the category.
Dollar Sales
Dollar Sales % Chg YAgo
Unit Sales
Unit Sales % Chg YAgo
$796,053,900
2.02
47,764,980
0.79
OLAY REGENERIST FACIAL ANTI-AGING
$89,031,550
(3.29)
4,523,498
(2.92)
L’ORÉAL DRM EXPERTS ADVNCD REVITL FACIAL ANTI-AGING
$50,427,740
(13.30)
3,509,993
(15.49)
PRIVATE LABEL FACIAL ANTI-AGING
$42,303,860
25.30
3,541,372
24.50
OLAY PROFESSIONAL PRO X FACIAL ANTI-AGING
$39,439,620
(4.45)
839,926
0.05
OLAY REGENERIST MICRO SCULPTING FACIAL ANTI-AGING
$38,116,600
51.90
1,538,731
51.53
OLAY AGE DEFYING FACIAL ANTI-AGING
$34,627,330
2.23
3,014,900
2.47
OLAY TOTAL EFFECTS 7X FACIAL ANTI-AGING
$27,202,170
5.42
1,386,314
5.47
NEUTROGENA AGELESS INTENSIVES FACIAL ANTI-AGING
$25,248,680
8.54
1,357,933
13.22
L’ORÉAL DERMO EXPERTIS AGE PERFCT FACIAL ANTI-AGING
$20,254,180
2.25
1,426,944
2.60
ROC RETINOL CORREXION DP WRINKLE FACIAL ANTI-AGING
$18,336,840
6.10
904,215
7.89
FACIAL ANTI-AGING
Source: SymphonyIRI
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May 2011
• Skin Care
professional chemical peel, according to Amway. What’s behind the peel? The key ingredient is mucor miehei mushroom enzyme, which is said to mirror the activity of exfoliating enzymes produced naturally in the skin. The self-neutralizing enzyme works with skin’s pH level to detect and dissolve dead skin cells. When it encounters the higher pH levels of active skin, the exfoliating process automatically shuts off, protecting healthy skin. According to Jillian Vitale, lead marketer for the U.S. launch of the new peel, Amway researchers created a 100-step process to distill the mushroom extract down to the extremely pure state that provides distinct advantages. According to Vitale, acid peels dissolve the skin until they are neutralized by a second product, which can increase the risk of over-peeling (leading to redness and irritation) if the acid step is left on too long. “When you look at OTC peels that are two or more steps, there is some guess work involved,” Vitale said. “The instructions tell the user to apply the acid base and leave it on for a set amount of time and then apply a second product to neutralize. It doesn’t account for users who are 20 years old versus 55 years old who are using the same peel; not everyone has the same level of dead skin.” According to Vitale, Artistry’s mushroom enzyme will dissolve protein bonds that hold dead skin, but as soon
as it gets to the 4.5-5.5 pH of live skin cells, it is no longer active. “It is one-step and is able to customize the duration of activity for each person—this eliminates the risk of over peeling the skin,” she said. Artistry contends the new peel also tempers the “fear factor” and high cost of professional treatments. At $99.50 bottle, it provides the equivalent of 12 peels, according to Artistry, which is positioning the SKU as the first in a new series of at-home alternatives to dermatologist procedures designed to complement its flagship Time Defiance anti-aging line.
The Space Between According to Vitale, Artistry’s R&D team developed the peel for three years, after recognizing the increase in dermatological procedures and the growing interest in natural ingredients.“We were trying to find the space where those two trends could exist harmoniously,” Vitale told HAPPI. Industry observers are keeping a watchful eye on other products that ride the line between categories and trends—think antiaging makeup, multi-tasking treatments and products that offer natural and clinical attributes. Any one of these could be the next big wave in skin care, say experts. In that respect, there are high hopes for products like Origins Plantscription. The new anti-aging serum has been lauded as “one of the most significant prod-
uct launches in the history of the Origins brand”by Jane Lauder, global president and general manager, Origins. Researched for more than five years in partnership with plant scientists at the University of Strasbourg in France, the antiaging serum is said to combat multiple causes of aging skin, visibly correcting lines and wrinkles and loss of firmness by helping to rebuild natural fibrillin, collagen and elastin with the help of key ingredient African Anogeissus. Found in the Republic of Ghana, the bark of Anogeissus is particularly concentrated into compounds able to stimulate the natural production of fibrillin. In tandem with Anogeissus, Siegesbeckia (a small shrub native to eastern Asia used in Traditional Chinese Medicine) and rosemary extract help protect natural collagen and elastin while scutellaria root, apple extract and cucumber extract visibly address and improve skin discoloration. Origins conducted a 20-week study of women ages 42-63 in which researchers biophysically measured a dozen different skin parameters including lines, wrinkles, firmness, lifting, clarity, radiance, smoothness, evenness of tone, age spots, redness and pore size. Plantscription received the best line and wrinkle clinical test results in Origins’ history; 88% of the visible wrinkle-reducing power of a leading prescription wrinkle ingredient, but without the effects of photosensitivity, skin shedding, burning, stinging, redness, dryness, flaking and itching, according to the Estée Lauder-owned brand. Another product finding the white Look out skin care marketers—the company that put mineral makeup on the map, Bare Escentuals, has expanded its skin care collection.
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May 2011
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• Skin Care
space between categories comes from luxury beauty firm La Prairie. Rolling out this month in the Cellular Energizing Collection is Cellular Energizing Body Lotion, which walks the line between scent and treatment. More than your basic scented body product, this creamy hydrator features a multi-vitamin complex that penetrates skin rapidly to deliver antioxidant protection. It features Cellular Complex, which combines glycoproteins, ginseng root and horse tail extracts to help nourish and energize the skin, grape seed and rice bran oils and shea butter to help moisturize and white willow bark extract to enhance and brighten skin tone. The citrus scent is equally intriguing—top notes include ruby red grapefruit, Italian bergamot, cardamom and verbena and the heart contains Mandarin tree blossom, jasmine petals, green mate, osmanthus and apple blossom. Base notes are velvet musk, golden amber, clary sage and oak moss.
Digging Deeper Just as anti-aging propped up skin care, minerals stirred up the makeup category. And now the brand that put the mineral based formulations on the map—Bare Escentuals—wants a greater share of the skin care market and as such has rolled out a bulked up collection called bareMinerals Skincare. The extensive range is built around the company’s RareMinerals ActiveSoil Complex of macro and micro minerals, and in-
Estée Lauder’s new Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator is designed for all skin tones.
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cludes new products like Purely Nourishing Cream and Deep Cleansing Foam and repackaged, existing SKUs including Blemish Therapy and Pure Transformation Night Treatment (formerly known as Skin Revival Treatment), both of which were released in 2007. While Bare Escentuals is a known entity in the beauty aisle, Solazyme isn’t—but that isn’t stopping the South San Franciscobased industrial biotech company from jumping into the skin care market with Algenist. The line is formulated with alguronic acid, a material Solazyme's scientists unexpectedly discovered after studying thousands of microalgae strains for renewable energy solutions. When researched for potential anti-aging benefits, alguronic acid demonstrated significant rejuvenating properties, enabling microalgae cells to regenerate and protect themselves in harsh environments and conditions. “Algae are subject to environmental insults such as harsh UV, desiccation and nutrient deprivation. These are the same environmental insults experienced by our skin,” said Tony Day, vice president of research and development. Solazyme developed a highly reproducible method to cultivate the algae and purify the compound, including fermentation in precisely controlled stainless steel vessels. “This has two benefits,”Day told HAPPI. “Since we are not harvesting from the wild, we are not depleting a resource, and the alguronic acid produced is highly reproducible each time.” This newcomer has caught the attention of some big names in beauty retail, specifically Sephora and QVC, both of which signed agreements to launch Algenist this spring. The four SKU line—Concentrated Reconstructing Serum, Regenerative Anti-Aging Moisturizer, Regenerative Anti-Aging Moisturizer with SPF 20 and Complete Eye Renewal Balm—is ofhappi.com
Artistry has unveiled a new at-home intensive renewing peel that when used twice weekly for six weeks, provides benefits comparable to a professional chemical peel.
fered on QVC in the U.S. and is stocked in more than 800 Sephora stores in seven countries throughout Europe and in the U.S. There are plans to expand into Asia and the Middle East. “Sephora and QVC both have reputations for providing some of the most advanced skin care products in the world to consumers. We share their commitment to delivering ground-breaking, highvalue innovations and believe it was a natural step for us to team up,” said Frederic Stoeckel, general manager, Algenist. “Both also are known for providing excellent information on brands and products to their beauty consumers, so we are confident that they will do an outstanding job in educating consumers on the remarkable benefits of alguronic acid and Algenist products.”
Moments of Clarity Wrinkles and lines are key targets in the anti-aging battle, but improving overall skin tone and clarity is a growing message from skin care marketers. Firms are addressing a range of concerns from dark spots to spider veins, all in the quest for the perfect complexion. Beauty powerhouse Estée Lauder, for example, is rolling new Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator, which is designed for all skin tones—a breakthrough in formulating, according to company executives. “It was challenging to create a product that was gentle and effective for women of all ethnicities, and also delivered extremely quick results. The fact that we were able to accomplish both with Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator is extremely exciting,” said Dr. Nadine Pernodet, executive director of skin biology, May 2011
Be Bold, Go Cold. Gelaid CPE is one “cool” silicone compound, designed for the ease of formulating cold process skin care products. No heat required with Gelaid CPE! Just add water and your expertise to produce a wide variety of stable skin care preparations. Formulations with Gelaid CPE leave a light, luxurious, non-greasy, after feel. Gelaid CPE is formulator friendly and easily modified with oils, esters, and active ingredients. If your formulation requirement is cyclic-free, ask about our new Gelaid CPE-CF. Contact Chemsil Silicones, Inc today and Gelaid CPE or Gelaid CPE-CF will provide time saving product development, formulation flexibility and energy saving manufacturing. Don’t get left out in the cold! Let Chemsil Silicones, Inc. supply your “cool” silicone solutions.
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• Skin Care
research and development, Estée Lauder Companies. Having first identified the different causes of uneven skin tone for different ethnicities, Lauder tapped powerful, yet very gentle ingredients designed to address the key signs of uneven skin tone affecting women of all ethnicities, said Pernodet. “For example, our Glucosamine-DP molecule blend (Idealist’s signature Glucosamine combined with dimethoxytolyl propylresorcinol), vitamin C and botanical extracts are extremely effective when working together to quickly help reduce the appearance of dark spots, but they are also very gentle to the skin,” she said. Vichy Laboratoires is hitting the
market this month with its own treatment designed for multiple skin tones. New ProEve Total Dark Spot Corrector contains DeeperCell-Concentrate, which is said to address dark spots and uneven tone that can affect a wide range of skin tones. The concentrate is a combination of vitamins C and E and LHA. In addition, Vichy said the product has a unique texture stemming from micro pearl and titanium, which are designed to deliver a more luminous, radiant complexion instantly with a moisturizing base that provides 24hour hydration. Jurlique says its new Purely White Skin Brightening has been shown to even skin tone in just 30 days as it visibly fades dis-
coloration, increases skin firmness and prevents visible signs of aging. Workhorse ingredients include VitabrightTKX, a natural lightening complex that brightens skin without the harmful effects associated with hydroquinone, kojic acid or MAP, according to the company. Even as marketers crack the code on products designed to safely treat a range of skin tones, there’s been a movement toward more targeted offerings designed to help specific populations. In an era when a lengthy info sheet touting powerful natural ingredients has become the norm, La Roche-Posay is taking a less-is-more approach with new Toleraine Ultra Intensive Soothing Care, a
Body of Evidence From head to toe, and places in between, marketers have their clients’ skin covered. Here is a quick look at recent launches that target skin woes in specific areas.
Face
Eyes
• Palmer’s is taking its cocoa butter formula expertise from the body to the face with the
• Scientific by Kenneth Beer has rolled out a new
new Palmer’s Cocoa Butter Formula facial range—its first foray into cocoa butter-based
eye cream, EyeSculpt, which marks the third product in
complexion care in the U.S. The range includes a gentle daily cleanser that has exfoliat-
the brand’s skin sculpting range. The formulation con-
ing micro-fine cocoa beans, Night Renewal Cream and Line Smoothing Eye Cream, both
tains Spilanthes Acmella and squalane to help lift, firm
of which contain retinol to increase skin’s cell turnover.
and tighten the delicate skin around the eyes.
Natural marketer Jason has rolled out a new anti-wrinkle moisture lotion featuring SPF 30 designed for daily use. It is powered by a Multi-Antioxidant Complex featuring Ester-C—a stable,
Neck & Décolleté
naturally derived form of vitamin C with powerful antiox-
• When it comes to a completely youthful look, the neck
idant protection to reduce oxidative stress and help
and chest area can make-it-or-break-it—think beautiful
minimize free radical damage to skin cells—and
flowers in an ugly vase. Dr. Hauschka is taking on this
thioctic acid.
specific area of the body with its new Regenerating Neck & Décolleté. The formulation features extracts of moisture-balancing marsh mallow and birch leaves combined
Feet
with isoflavone-rich red clover and plant oils like
• Freeman Bare Foot Repair is a new range
macadamia nut and argan. In addition, field horsetail for-
of solution-oriented products designed to
tifies and helps firm for a visibly smoother appearance.
keep feet looking (and smelling) their best with formulations that combine powerful active ingredients with natural botanicals and refresh-
Hands
ing fragrances.
• Nature’s Gate has updated its hand lotions to reflect
The range includes Repair for Pain Relief,
advances in natural ingredients. Offering 10 quick-absorb-
a blend including camphor and menthol
ing, fast-acting PEG- and butylene glycol-free formulas that
which provides cooling relief from minor aches
address each and every skin care need, these improved
and muscle pains; Repair for Cracked Heels,
lotions deliver even more moisture boosting, skin
an intense daily treatment that repairs damaged
protecting power from their unique blend of
tissue and rebuilds skin’s protective layers; Re-
Seven Natural Moisture Boosters. The lo-
pair for Callus Softening, a lotion designed to re-
tions contain seven herbs, oils and nour-
duce dry skin build-up and hydrate; and Repair
ishing botanicals—sodium hyaluronate,
Deodorizing Foot Spray, which reportedly deliv-
vegetable glycerin, shea butter, sweet al-
ers dryness and odor protection all-day by way
mond oil, vitamin E, apricot kernel oil and
of talc and neem oil.
soybean oil—in an exclusive blend.
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May 2011
• Skin Care
daily moisturizer and calming agent de- would increase microcirculation and restore signed for ultra-intolerant and/or allergy- moisture levels on both areas rather than split it into two SKUs. prone skin. Billed as the first Lavian’s firm recently added Redness daily moisturizer with zero Rehab Rosacea Relief, which contains percent preservatives, zero alleviating and calming ingredients that percent parabens/fragrance, allow skin to adjust to the reactive redzero percent alcohol/colness of rosacea while responding to the orants and zero percent aggressors. It contains natural skin lanolin, the formulation brightener Emblica, as well as green contains Neurosensine, a tea and shea butter and the anti-incalming agent to help reflammatory ingredient Phytosphinduce signs of skin reactivgosine. ity immediately upon According to Lavian, multifuncapplication. tional products are what conDermelect Cosmeceusumers want, not a vanity full of ticals is taking on another individual treatments. specific condition with its “It saves money and saves them new Vacial Spider Vein time,”he said.“We are trying to take Treatment. Designed to the clutter out of cosmeceuticals.” address broken capillaries around the cheeks and nose, it can also be used on What Do They Want? spider veins on the legs That’s the million-dollar question and body. in skin care—and it appears conVacial’s key ingredients sumers are willing to experiment include grape seed extract, on both ends of the pricing spechorse chestnut and phytotrum. In mass, sales of private label tonine (vitamin K), which facial anti-aging skin care products contains extracts of arnica, rose an impressive 25% over last cypress and Solomon’s year, while prestige skin care sales Seal, all essential for microcontinue to fare well too. Accordcirculation and the ing to a recent CNN online report, strengthening of vein La Roche-Posay’s Toleraine Saks Fifth Avenue had to limit walls. Application of Ultra Intensive Soothing Care the number of products cusphytononine for 3 is a daily moisturizer and tomers could buy when LaPrairie weeks resulted in a 24% calming agent for ultra-intol- launched Cellular Power Infudecline in the redness of erant or allergy-prone skin. sion, its über lux treatment that the affected area and a rolled out in February; a supply 25% reduction of extravascular blood flow, of four 0.26oz. vials retails for $475. helping to improve the appearance of redInterestingly, the prestige skin care ness and broken capillaries. market seemed to pick up speed as price According to Dermelect founder Amos points for some mass products began to Lavian, the initial formulation was created tick upward. Some experts suggested that for the legs, but during testing, study par- the “pragmatic luxury” trend may have ticipants tried it on their faces. After their persuaded consumers that a prestige positive experience, Dermelect researchers product with its professional consultation took a closer look. as a great value when compared to the “We had to play with the pH levels on more expensive mass market anti-aging the product,”Lavian told HAPPI, noting that products that were stocked alongside after reviewing the formulation with an al- everyday moisturizers. For example, Neutrogena Clinical hit lergist on the company’s board, Dermelect opted to keep it as a single product that the marketplace at $40, which is not much 106 • happi
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cheaper than the $49.50 entry level price point for Clinique’s Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector, which was the No. 1 item in the prestige skin care market last year, according to NPD. The blurring of prestige and mass isn’t putting the squeeze on dermatologists’ business. According to Kline & Company, a rise in visits to professional outlets for skin care treatments in 2010 gave way to sales growth for the global professional skin care products market, with most of the leading professional skin care companies posting respectable sales gains in 2010. Brands from medical care providers registered the strongest growth, with SkinMedica and SkinCeuticals posting double-digit gains and market leader Obagi maintaining its leading position in the U.S. market, with a 13% sales gain for the year, according to Kline. It is all about finding what works, according to experts and industry observers alike. “The at-home skin care user has become more savvy over the last few years. They are looking for skin care products that ‘work’ and because of the financial turmoil everyone has been enduring, she wants the skin care line to have a lower price yet deliver what she is expecting,” said Dr. Byeong Deog Park, chief executive officer of Neopharm Co. Ltd., which touts Atopalm, a skin care range that features a patented multi lamellar emulsion system that mimics skin’s mixture of ceramides, cholesterols and fatty acids. “The USA skin care consumer wants something that they feel works faster, lasts longer, and costs less; and yet, has a ‘premium feel,” Park said. A long list to be sure, but there’s more to achieving success in the skin care market than a great formulation. “Overall, those who are resonating the strongest with consumers are leveraging more than the ingredients,” said Grant of NPD. “They are focusing on the relationship. At the end of the day, everyone can offer great ingredient and great technology. It comes to down to how much consumers can trust the brand.”• May 2011
New SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS 2011 Here is a list of new ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months. For more information on products listed here, contact the supplier directly using the information provided.
Arch Personal Care Products South Plainfield, NJ Tel: 908-561-5200 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.archpersonalcare.com ReGeniStem Red Rice INCI: Ozonized oryza sativa (rice) callus culture extract Suggested Use Levels: 2-4% Applications: Facial skin care, daily wear products, decorative cosmetics Comments: ReGeniStem Red Rice is a botanically sourced product that is made via a sustainable process of cultivating state-of-the-art plant cell cultures in bioreactors, which reduces the residual biomass waste and environmental impact. ReGeniStem Rice allows for increased secondary metabolite production through the use of natural plant elicitors, restores cellular epigenetic patterns of old cells to that of young cells and reverses the age-related increase in DNA methylation, leading to an increase in collagen production. PhytoBrasil Fusions Suggested Use Levels: 1-5% Applications: Skin care, hair care Comments: PhytoBrasil Energy Fusion is a combination of sustainably sourced botanicals that are indigenous to Brazil and are a visible part of this beautiful culture. There are three products within the line, PhytoBrasil Energy Fusion, PhytoBrasil Fresh Fusion and PhytoBrasil Gourmet Fusion, each offering a unique blend of ingredients for personal care products.
Arizona Chemical Company Jacksonville, FL Tel: 904-928-8700 Email:
[email protected] 108 • happi
Website: www.arizonachemical.com Sylvasol 80 INCI: Polyamide-3 Suggested Use Levels: 1-2% Applications: Can be incorporated in the oil phase of skin care products. Imparts water repellency and actives retention to formulations while maintaining skin feel, good aesthetics and low gloss. Ethanol soluble; can be incorporated as film former in continuous ethanol sprays and gels. Comments: Sylvasol 80 a partially vegetable derived polymer for use as a film former in skin care products.
Bayer MaterialScience AG 51368 Leverkusen, Germany Email:
[email protected] Website: www.bayercosmetics.com Baycusan C 1008 INCI: applied Applications: Film forming polyurethane polymer for hair styling Comments: Imparts natural strong hold and excellent flexibility.
Biosil Technologies Inc. Allendale, NJ Tel: 201-825-8800 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.biosiltech.com Okinacea INCI: Water, caulerpa lentillifera extract, hydrolyzed rice protein. Suggested Use Levels: 1-5% Applications: Skin care—anti-aging face care, specific skin care for mature skin, repairing and restructuring skin care, firming body care. Comments: Okinacea is a sea grape exhappi.com
tract, which increases GAGs synthesis. It also affects collagen synthesis and restores skin volume.
Biovelop AB distributed by Brenntag Specialties Inc.
South Plainfield, NJ Tel: 800-732-0562 Email:
[email protected],
[email protected] Website:www.avenacare.com, www.brenntagspecialties.com Avenacare Oat Beta Glucan INCI: Oat beta glucan Suggested Use Levels: 1-10% Applications: Skin care, sun care, hair care Comments: This unique hypoallergenic ingredient, naturally derived from locally grown, non-GMO Swedish oats, is renowned for its anti-aging, rejuvenating and soothing properties. The Avenacare oat beta glucan molecules stimulate the synthesis of collagen, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, increase skin firmness and elasticity, accelerate wound healing, soothe skin irritations, hydrate the skin and protect against the damaging effects of UVA/UVB light. Avenacare oat beta glucan can also be incorporated into hair care products, where it provides nourishment to the hair, improves tensile strength, adds body and helps repair damaged hair.
Chemsil Silicones, Inc. Chatsworth, CA Tel: 877-700-0302 Email:
[email protected], Rgriffiths@ chemsil.com Website: www.chemsil.com Gelaid CPE-CF INCI: Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl May 2011
• New Skin Care Ingredients
dimethicone crosspolymer (and) hydroxyethyl acrylate (and) sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer Comments: Cyclic silicone free pre-emulsified gelling agent that creates luxurious creams and lotions. Specifically developed for cold mix process. Multi-phasic properties permit functional oil and water based active ingredients to be incorporated. K-12 INCI: Dimethicone (and) dimethicone PEG-10/15 crosspolymer Comments: Water in silicone emulsifier/surfactant incorporates cross polymer technology for luxurious skin feel.
Croda Inc. Edison, NJ Tel: 732-417-0800 Website: www.croda.com/na/oc Versathix INCI: PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate (and) PPG-2 hydroxyethyl cocamide (and) water Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-10% Applications: Hand washes, cleansers, body washes, shampoos Comments: Versatile rheology modifier that provides efficient viscosity building across a wide variety of surfactant systems. It provides efficient thickening in traditional, as well as sulfate free systems, coupled with sheer thinning rheology. It has a neutral effect on foam and afterfeel, is suitable for cold processing and is excellent for use in clear systems.
DeWolf Chemical, Inc. submission for Cognis Care Chemical product
Warwick, RI Tel: 800-521-0065 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.dewolfchem.com Cetiol C5 INCI: Coco-Caprylate Suggested Use Levels: 3-5% Applications: Body care, face care, hair care, sun care, wipes Comments: Biodegradable, easy to emulsify, easy to handle, excellent substitution for silicones in personal care applications, good skin compatibility, cyclomethicone110 • happi
like feel, 100% naturally derived. Kahlemulsion BE 820 submission for Kahl GmbH & Co. product
INCI: Beeswax, carnauba wax, polysorbate 80, sorbitan oleate Suggested Use Levels: 5% Applications: Skin care, O/W creams and lotions, sun care, hair care products, styling creams Comments: Natural film former, low viscosity emulsion, based on bees- and carnauba wax, energy saving, SPF enhancer (up to 200%), high solids (40%), yet low viscosity, wax in a modern form, easy to disperse as post-addition. Dissolvine GL-47-S submission for Akzo Nobel
INCI: Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate Applications: Hair care, bath and shower products, color cosmetics, ethnic hair, hair color/dye, wipes Comments: Improved cleaning and foaming in shampoo applications, readily biodegradable
Dow Corning Corporation Midland, MI Contact: Robin Gray Tel: 989-496-7761 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.dowcorning.com Dow Corning MQ-1640 Flake Resin INCI: Trimethylsiloxy silicate (and) polypropyl silsesquioxane Suggested Use Levels: Application dependent Applications: Color cosmetics, skin care and sun care Comments: Dow Corning MQ-1640 Flake Resin is a patented resin technology, a specially formulated blend of MQ and T Propyl silicone resins that sets a standard in longlasting benefits while also enhancing the comfort, color intensity and shine of color cosmetic products. In sunscreens, it can potentially improve SPF due to good compatibility with sunscreen actives and improved wash-off resistance. Dow Corning EL-8052 IH Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend INCI: Isohexadecane (and) dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG 20 crosspolymer happi.com
Suggested Use Levels: Application dependent Applications: Skin care, color cosmetics and sun care. Comments: Dow Corning EL-8052 IH Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend makes it easy to combine the benefits of organic and active ingredients with the delightful sensory experience of silicone gels, including solvents, natural oils and sunscreen actives while providing a silky, smooth feel.
DSM Nutritional Products, LLC North American Distributor—Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT Tel: 203-822-9800 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.centerchem.com Regu-Fade INCI: Resveratrol Suggested Use Levels: Up to 1% in cosmetic formulations Applications: Skin brightening facial and body care products; creams and serums for age spots; anti-aging skin care products for more even skin tone Comments: The most effective solution for noticeably brighter skin, Regu-Fade is a high-performing and fast-acting skin brightener – a “bright” idea for beauty consumers around the world. Regu-Fade evens and brightens skin tone using pure, natureidentical resveratrol. Resveratrol is a potent antioxidant found naturally in red grapes and associated with various health benefits. Regu-Fade has proven its outstanding potential in human clinical trials with visible effects in only two weeks. Compared with a market benchmark, Regu-Fade has worked faster, early on, and strongly reduces the appearance of pigmentation throughout the studies. Extensive formulation guideline shows how to manage the solubility of Regu-Fade and ensure optimal use.
DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products Wilmington, DE Tel: 302-999-2390 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.duponttateandlyle.com/ products_zemea.php May 2011
Personal Care by HallStar. (Ingredients by Mother Nature).
The company that has always helped you shoot for the stars with your personal care innovations is now firmly planted in the field of Natural ingredients. With a growing collection of performance-based butters and oils—led by the addition of the BioChemica product line—you can rely on HallStar to help you deliver the breakthrough products your customers demand. At HallStar, things are definitely blooming…naturally. hallstar.com
• New Skin Care Ingredients
Zemea Propanediol INCI: Propanediol Suggested Use Levels: 3-6% Applications: Skin care, hair care, deodorants, sun care, baby care, personal lubricants Comments: Zemea propanediol is 100% natural glycol alternative used as a humectant, emollient or solvent. Ecocert and the Natural Products Association approve it. Benefits in skin care include increased moisturization, no skin irritation or sensitization, enhanced aesthetics and may boost the efficacy of preservatives in your formulations.
Evonik Goldschmidt Corporation Hopewell, VA Tel: 804-541-8658 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.evonik.com/personal-care Tegosoft AC INCI: Isoamyl cocoate (proposed) Suggested Use Levels: 1-10% Applications: Natural cosmetic products, face and body care emulsions, gels and serums, baby care, sprayable emulsions, antiperspirants/deodorants, color cosmetics Comments: Tegosoft AC is a very light emollient, completely based on natural raw materials. It has very low viscosity, low oiliness and absorbs easily. It is produced by a sustainable enzymatic process. Tegosoft XC INCI: Phenoxyethyl caprylate Suggested Use Levels: 1-10% Applications: Sun care lotions, sprays, creams, gels and oils, skin care creams and lotions, sprayable emulsions, antiperspirants/deodorants, decorative cosmetics Comments: Tegosoft XC is based on more than 50% natural raw materials. It is an emollient with excellent solvent properties for UV filters and lipophilic active ingredients and imparts a pleasant, non-oily skin feel. It is especially suited for sun care applications and for stable, low viscosity formulations, due to its water-like density. Abil EM 180 INCI: Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-2.5% Applications: Body and facial care, sun care, baby care 112 • happi
Comments: Abil EM 180 is a versatile, highmolecular weight silicone W/O emulsifier, an ideal choice for a wide range of W/O formulations. It is efficient at low usage concentration and as a liquid product, it is easy to handle in hot or cold processing. In addition to an outstanding cost-performance ratio, it provides superior thermal stability as well as high compatibility with electrolytes and active ingredients.
Gattefosse Corporation Paramus, NJ Tel: 201-265-4800 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.gattefosse.com Malt Secrets INCI: Propanediol (and) water (and) hordeum vulgare seed extract Suggested Use Levels: 0.1-1% Applications: Anti-aging, anti-pollution, anti-stress Comments: Free-radical scavenger/antioxidant.
Glenn Corporation White Bear Lake, MN Tel: 888-453-6267 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.glenncorp.com Tegosoft XC submission for Evonik-Goldschmidt product
INCI: Phenoxyethyl caprylate Suggested Use Levels: 1-10% Applications: Sun care, AP/deodorants , color cosmetics, skin care creams and lotions, spray emulsions Comments: Benefits—Superior UV filter solubility in comparison to C12-15 alkyl benzoate, SPF boosting effect, pleasant, non-oily skin feel, efficient in pigments wetting and dispersions, photostable, more than 50% natural-based raw material. Sensolene Care DD submission for B&T product
INCI: Dodecyl olivate Suggested Use Levels: 1-5% Applications: Sun care, skin care, AP/deodorants, color cosmetics Comments: Benefits—melting point mimics that of skin lipids, immediate (1 hour) and long-term moisturization (up to 8 happi.com
hours), immediate (1 hour) and long-term elasticity (up to 8 hours), very good spread, no tack. EcoCert. BotanySelect Lychee submission for Burgundy Botanical Exracts
INCI: Litchi sinensis Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-3.0% Applications: Anti-age products, suncare or after suncare, skin care creams and lotions, hair care, color cosmetics Comments: Standardized extract of proanthocyanidin, proven inhibition of collagenase enzyme, source of vitamin C, strong antioxidant activity.
The HallStar Company Chicago, IL Tel: 877-427-4255, 312-385-4494 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.hallstar.com HallStar NCD-20 INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20 Suggested Use Levels: 1-10% Applications: Depilatories, AHA & BHA anti-aging lotions and creams Comments: HallStar NCD-20 is an oil-inwater (O/W) primary or secondary emulsion base with broad pH stability. Nonionic and without esters, it may be used in systems far from neutral pH. CoVera IPM INCI: Isopropyl myristate (and) aloe barbadensis leaf extract Suggested Use Levels: 0.05–78% Applications: Massage oils, suntan oils, skin care ointments, creams and lotions Comments: CoVera IPM allows the formulator to deliver the oil-soluble fraction of the aloe barbadensis plant to skin care formulations, including anhydrous ones.
Honeywell Morristown, NJ Tel: 973-455-4425 Website: www.asensa.com Sensa RC 880 INCI: Bis-C16–20 Isoalkoxy TMHDI/PEG90 copolymer Suggested Use Levels: 3-10% Applications: Creams and lotions with high salt and/or low pH requirements; Provides interesting skin care product textures. May 2011
• New Skin Care Ingredients
Comments: Rheology modifier for aqueous systems. Asensa RC 880 is intended for use where other thickening materials do not provide stable results, for example in aqueous systems with high salt concentrations, low pH and other difficult to thicken formulations. This easy to use 30% solids solution thickens aqueous phases for use in single phase or emulsion type formulations. The ingredient works very well when added at the end of the emulsification process and is probably best not added to the water or lipid phase before emulsions are made. It has been found that high HLB emulsifiers can adversely affect performance.
Independent Chemical Corporation Glendale, NY Tel: 718-894-0700 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.independentchemical.com DesaDrops (Vevy codex 19.4944) INCI: Water, glucamine, hydroxyethylcellulose Suggested Use Levels: 0.1-1% or according to the amount of acid radicals to neutralize Applications: DesaDrops may be used as such to modify and to adjust pH of a solution, an emulsion, a lotion; it may be diluted to gel high concentrated resins and to avoid formation of aggregates. It may be used as succedaneous of “classical”neutralizers such as AMP (aminomethylpropanol), TEA, sodium hydroxide, etc. in the same percentages of use. It is a very safe product because it does not release any secondary reaction toxic element, such as nitrosamine. It has to be considered as a classical neutralizer; it can substitute, respecting right proportions, the most common neutralizers. Hyaluramine-S (Vevy codex 17.5000) INCI: Water, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, glucan, cellulose Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-2.0% Applications: Hyaluramine-S is applied in all finished products for cutaneous use, even professional, that are required to carry out a deep, active and lasting moisturizing action. Products for aging skin; skin care, 114 • happi
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sunscreen, after shave, hair care, makeup and depilatory preparations.
Inolex Chemical Company Philadelphia, PA Tel: 215-271-0800 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.inolex.com LexFeel Natural INCI: Heptyl undecylenate Suggested Use Levels: 3-10% (skin and sun care), 1-3% (hair care), 3-8% (color cosmetics) Applications: Skin and sun care, hair care, color cosmetics Comments: LexFeel Natural is an extremely light and dry emollient suitable for natural products. It is 100% vegetable derived and can be used in sunscreens moisturizers, lotions, makeup and antiperspirants. It is a natural alternative to synthetic fluids such as cyclomethicone and mineral oils and can be combined with natural oils to reduce the greasiness of such materials. LexFeel 700 INCI: Polyester-4 Suggested Use Levels: 20-40% Applications: Color cosmetics Comments: LexFeel 700 is an emollient, humectant, pigment dispersant and dye solubilizer used in lipstick, lipgloss and other color cosmetics. It is colorless, odorless, tasteless, and has performance properties exceeding those of castor oil. But unlike castor oil, LexFeel 700 is completely resistant to lipid oxidation, and thus forms lip products with indefinite shelf-life without the strong odor and strong taste associated with castor oil.
International Specialty Products Wayne, NJ Tel: 973-628-4000 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.ispcorp.com Natriance Biofractions Suggested Use Levels: 1-3% Applications: Anti-aging skin care Comments: The Natriance family of skin care biofractions are vegetable-derived ingredients that help to rejuvenate, moisMay 2011
New Skin Care Ingredients
turize and protect skin by focusing on markers and proteins associated with aging and environmental damage. Natriance Antioxidizer (Water, propanediol, hydrolyzed soy protein (proposed)), Detoxifier (Water, glycerin, hydrolyzed corn protein (proposed)) and Protector (Water, glycerin, linum usitatissimum (linseed) seed extract (proposed)) help skin look younger and healthier by providing protection against oxidative, UV and other stresses while supporting cellular functions that may be critical to better skin. FlexiThix INCI: PVP Suggested Use Levels: 1-5% Applications: Creams, gels, lotions, antiperspirants, color cosmetics, multipurpose products, hair relaxers, hair color, depilatories, hair straightener. Comments: Capable of thickening aqueous and anhydrous formulations, FlexiThix
May 2011
is compatible with a wide range of ingredients, effective across a broad pH range and has been shown to be stable with numerous solvents and acids. Caspaline 14 INCI: Water (and) propanediol (and) hexapeptide (proposed) Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-1% Applications: Anti-aging formulations aimed to boost the skin’s natural protection. Comments: Caspaline 14 is a synthetic peptide designed to target and boost the expression of caspase-14. Caspaline 14 is an innovative approach for reinforcing the natural UV shielding properties of the skin. Survixyl IS INCI: Water (and) butylene glycol (and) pentapeptide Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-1.5% Applications: Anti-aging skin care Comments: Survixyl IS is a peptide based on the latest discoveries in stem
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cell research. It has been designed specifically to target and boost the Stemness Recovery Complex.
Jeen International Corporation Fairfield, NJ Tel: 973-439-1401 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.jeen.com Jeesperse CPW-S INCI: Helianthus annus (sunflower) seed wax, sodium polyacrylate Suggested Use Levels: 1-15% Applications: Skin care, hair care, color cosmetics Comments: Reduce you carbon footprint the easy way. Add some sunflower wax to your emulsion without ever turning up the heat. Use it in any emulsion. See how easy it is to be good to the environment. Deliver a cold process product that’s as good as a conventional emulsion.
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• New Skin Care Ingredients
Jeesperse CPW-CG-T INCI: Cetyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, glyceryl monostearate, caprylic/ capric/triglyceride Suggested Use Levels: 0.1-10% Applications: Skin care, hair care, color cosmetics Comments: A cold process wax containing emulsifying waxes makes it easy to reduce your carbon footprint. Make a low viscosity lotion spray at 3% or a higher viscosity cream at 4%. Feel and function delivered cool and easy. No heat, no worries. Jeesperse CPWN-SunGuar INCI: Sunflower wax, guar gum, caprylic/ capric triglyceride Suggested Use Levels: 1-5% Applications: Skin care, hair care, color cosmetics, sun care Comments: All natural cold process wax makes it easy to stay natural and green. No heating required so energy consumption is naturally reduced. Add to your emulsions and feel the difference while making a difference in your carbon footprint. Guar gum can be replaced with carrageenan, sodium alginate or other natural gums.
Kewpie Corporation Tokyo, Japan Tel: +81-3-3486-3338 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.kewpie.co.jp/english/fc Hyalo-oligo INCI: Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid Suggested Use Levels: 0.02-1.0% Applications: Lotion, emulsion, cream, gel, serum, hair mist Comments: Hyalo-oligo is a unique and innovative hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of less than 10,000 Da. Its nanosized molecules allow it to easily penetrate the skin’s horny layer or the hair’s cortex to offer exceptionally long-lasting moisture retention. Hyaloveil-P INCI: Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate Suggested Use Levels: 0.02-1.0% Applications: Lotion, emulsion, cream, gel, serum, shampoo, hair treatment 116 • happi
Comments: Hyaloveil-P is a uniquely innovative, adhesive hyaluronic acid that is partly cationized so that it is not easily washed away. Its adhesive property makes it possible to remain after cleansing, allowing the skin and hair to remain moist and lustrous.
Koster Keunen distributed by Brenntag Specialties Inc.
Watertown, CT Tel: 860-945-3333 (Koster Keunen), 800-732-0562 (Brenntag Specialties, Inc) Email:
[email protected],
[email protected] Website: www.kosterkeunen.com, www.brenntagspecialties.com Siliconyl Polyethylene PC-38 INCI: Polyethylene, stearoxy dimethicone, polycyclopentadiene Suggested Use Levels: Applications: Skin care, hair care, color cosmetics, sun care Comments: Reduces TEWL, increases slip, does not increase emulsion viscosity, reduces hardness of finished product without affecting melt point or gelling properties
Lincoln Fine Ingredients Lincoln, RI Tel: 401-722-2410 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.LincolnFineIngredients.com Linessential 3C (All Natural, Inexpensive 3 oil blend) INCI: Corn oil, camelina sativa seed oil, vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-5% Applications: Skin care, lip care & hair care Comments: Linessential 3C is an inexpensive 3 oil blend based around corn oil with cranberry and camelina seed oil. The blend is high in Omega 3, 6 and 9 and gives you moisture and antioxidant properties without the greasy feel. Lincoserve ES-105 (Naturally derived skin moisturizer with antimicrobial properties) INCI: Glycereth-2 cocoate, benzoic acid, sodium PCA Suggested Use Levels: 0.3-2.0% happi.com
Applications: Skin and hair care Comments: Lincoserve ES-105 is a naturally derived, skin conditioning agent that acts as a great moisturizing base and also has antimicrobial properties to keep formulation stable. Lincare PCA (only USA manufactured sodium PCA) INCI: Sodium PCA Suggested Use Levels: 0.05-3.0% Applications: Skin and hair care Comments: Lincare PCA provides a moisturized and powdery soft feeling to the skin and hair.
Lipo Chemicals, Inc. Paterson, NJ Tel: 973-345-8600 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.lipochemicals.com Lummerin INCI: Hydrolyzed whey protein Suggested Use Levels: 2-5% Applications: Facial creams and serums, hand and body lotions, foundations, soothing after-sun creams and lotions, body wash creams Comments: Lummerin significantly reduces the accumulation of melanin and thus may be useful in cosmetic applications for skin brightening, minimizing age spots and evening skin tones. Bioferrin 5000 INCI: Apo-Lactoferrin Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-1.0% Applications: Face creams, hand and body lotions, lip treatment products, soothing after-sun products, baby products. Comments: Bioferrin 5000 is patent pending for elevating hyaluronic acid levels in human tissue to promote significant skin hydration following topical application, ideal for use on sensitive skin. Rejuverrin INCI: Whey protein Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-1.0% Applications: Anti-aging face & eye creams, hand & body lotions, lip repair creams, foundation makeup, rich prestige & spa lines. Comments: The natural multi-functional anti-aging solution May 2011
New Skin Care Ingredients
Lipotec North American Distributor—Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT Tel: 203-822-9800 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.centerchem.com Hyadisine INCI: Water (Aqua), pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, citric acid Suggested Use Levels: 1-10% Applications: Hyadisine can be incorporated in formulations where an immediate and long-lasting moisturizing effect is needed such as after sun treatments, creams and treatments, which specially target dry skin or night creams. It is also suitable for serums or treatments targeting quick wrinkle reduction. Comments: Hyadisine is a marine alternative to hyaluronic acid (HA), obtained biotechnologically by fermentation of a marine bacterial strain belonging to
May 2011
pseudoalteromonas sp, rich in the same monosaccharide (glucuronic acid) as hyaluronan, with a high water retaining capacity, conferring similar cosmetic benefits to the skin. Hyadisine showed a better DVS profile relative to hyaluron, retaining 12.7% more water at 95% RH.
Mibelle Biochemistry Buchs, Switzerland Tel: +41 62 836 17 31 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com PhytoCellTec Argan INCI: Argania spinosa sprout cell extract, isomalt, lecithin, sodium benzoate, aqua/ water Suggested Use Levels: 0.4-1% Applications: Stem cell cosmetics, antiaging Comments: The first active ingredient designed to delay the depletion of the dermal
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stem cells. SunActin INCI: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) sprout extract, tocopherols, glycerin, lecithin, phenoxyethanol, aqua/water Suggested Use Levels: 2-5% Applications: Skin care with SPF protection, sun care, anti-aging Comments: The intelligent cell-protecting factor. LIPerfection INCI: Brassica alba sprout extract, sodium benzoate, aqua/water Suggested Use Levels: 2-5% Applications: Lipgloss, lip care formulations, lip contour treatment Comments: Ecocert certified
Micro Powders, Inc. Tarrytown, NY Tel: 914-793-4058 Email:
[email protected]
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• New Skin Care Ingredients
Website: www.MPIpersonalcare.com Micropoly 1160S INCI: Polyethylene Suggested Use Levels: 1.0%-10.0% Applications: Face powders, eyeshadows, foundations, eyeliners, cleansing products (cold creams), cleansing lotions (liquids & pads), mascara, skin care preparations, personal cleanliness products, lipstick, AP/Deo, eyeliner pencils Ecosoft 608 INCI: Polylactic acid Suggested Use Levels: 1.0-3.0% Applications: Foundations, eyeshadows, blushes, skin care preparations, mascaras, creams, gels and lotions Ecoscrubs INCI: Polylactic acid Suggested Use Levels: 3.0-10.0% Applications: Green formulation scrub soaps, foot scrubs, exfoliating face scrubs, body scrubs, creams, liquids, gels and lotions
Presperse Somerset, NJ Tel: 732-356-5200 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.presperse.com Bio-Frge INCI: Lactobacillus/panaz ginseng root extract ferment filtrate Suggested Use Levels: 0.3-1.0% Applications: Anti-wrinkle/anti-aging/ anti-inflammatory. CR Extract INCI: Butylene glycol, water, cnidium officinale root extract Suggested Use Levels: 0.3-1.0% Applications: Skin brightening/reduces hyperpigmentation.
Provital North American Distributor—Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT Tel: 203-822-9800
Email:
[email protected] Website: www.centerchem.com Caresoft INCI: Propanediol, glycerin, water, curculigo orchioides root extract Suggested Use Levels: 3.0-5.0% Applications: Products for women and men with sensitive skin, including makeup, shaving ranges, intimate hygiene, products for babies and hair care for sensitive scalps. Comments: Caresoft is a purified fraction of the root of Curculigo orchioides rich in total sugars and curculigosides, proposing an innovative mechanism, the involvement of the NHE1 receptor in sensitive skin. It is an active ingredient that acts on the internal control mechanism of skin pH, provides various cofactors and ways of modulating the activity of NHE1, improves cohesion between cells, repairs the integrity of the epidermis and the barrier function and causes a reduction in skin reactivity and sensitivity.
Natural Liquid Preservatives - Linatural NLP / NLP-O - Natural Products Association ( NPA ) Approved Performance Liquid Concentrates - Naturally Derived - Lauryl Alcohol “Free” Vegetable Based Sodium Laureth Sulfate 70% - 100% Bio-Sourced - 100% Renewable Carbon
Avatar CPSQt%oX$IFNJDBMt,atakura ChikLBSJOtPilot $IFNJDBMt4IJOEUTV4JMJcPOFTt Vege Tech Cot Vevy Europe
Performance Starches - Tapioca / Talc / Corn ( Dent ) - Sensorial Modifiers Vegetable Oils - Natural Products Association ( NPA ) Certified - OmegaCran ( Cranberry Seed Oil ) - Organic - Camelina - Corn Oils
Visit our new website at: www.LincolnFineIngredients.com 800.296.4942 | 50 Industrial Circle, Lincoln, Rhode Island, 02865, USA
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May 2011
New Skin Care Ingredients
ROVI Cosmetics International GmbH Schlüchtern, Germany Tel: +49 6661 96760 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.rovicosmetics.com Herbapurifine INCI: Water/aqua, butylene glycol, lecithin, salix alba bark extract, bakuchiol, magnolia grandiflora leaf extract Suggested Use Levels: 3% Applications: Adult skin impurities, reduction of efflorescences (comedones, papels, pustules), sebum reduction, inhibition of pro-inflammatory proteins, antibacterial, reducing itchiness Comments: Tested in-vivo and in vitro, preservative-free, Ecocert-compliant. UniTone
INCI: Water/aqua, alcohol, lecithin, ethyl ascorbic acid, propylene glycol, behentrimonium chloride, aloesin, hexylresorcinol, sodium citrate, disodium EDTA
Suggested Use Levels: 3%
Applications: Skin whitening, local skin depigmentation, effective reduction of the skin's intra- & extracellular melanin content, effective reduction of the tyrosinase activity Comments: Tested in-vivo (5D Intravital Tomography) and in vitro, cell targeted delivery.
Sabinsa Corporation East Windsor, NJ Tel: 732-777-1111 Email:
[email protected] and
[email protected] Website: www.sabinsacosmetics.com PteroWhite INCI: Ptercarpus marsupium bark extract Suggested Use Levels: 0.1-0.5% w/w Applications: Skin lightening, antioxidant Comments: PteroWhite is an effective natural ingredient in cosmetic compositions that support skin texture and even tone, and in sun care and after-sun care formulations.
Wacker Chemical distributed by Brenntag Specialties Inc.
Adrian, MI Tel: 800-732-0562 (Brenntag Specialties Inc) Email:
[email protected] May 2011
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Website: www.wacker.com, www.brenntagspecialties.com Cavamax W8 Retinol Complex INCI: Cyclodextrin/retinol Suggested Use Levels: 0.1-1.5% Applications: Skin care Comments: Retinol is well known to reduce wrinkles and helps restore UV-damaged tissue. However, retinol itself is inherently unstable. In this new product the critical positions of the retinol molecule are protected by the cavity of gamma-cyclodextrin. This encapsulation improves stabilization of retinol and allows for sustained release.
Vivimed Labs USA, Inc. Monmouth Junction, NJ Tel: 732-398-0008 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.vivimedlabs.com Vivinol INCI: 4-Butylresorcinol Suggested Use Level:0.05-0.20% (active w/w) Applications: Face, hand and body creams, lotions, serums and gels formulated to reduce appearance of age spots, enhance skin radiance and/or skin lightening Comments:Vivinol is highly effective at inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme and directly obstructing melanin formation. Vivinol helps promote a brighter, more even skin tone, reduces the appearance of age spots and blemishes and out-performs other leading skin lightening actives. Vintox INCI: Nordihydroguaiaretic acid Suggested Use Levels: 0.001-0.010% (active w/w) Applications: An extremely potent antioxidant that can be used in anti-aging & anti-wrinkle formulations wherever the need to counteract the effects of free-radical oxygen species. Comments: Vintox is a synthetically-derived version of the polyphenol that is present in the creosote (Larrea divarcata) bush. In addition to being a strong antioxidant, nordihydroguaiaretic acid (NDGA) has some of the following: antimicrobial/anti-inflammatory properties, anti-acne/sebum reducing properties and slows the re-growth of body hair after depilation or shaving.• happi.com
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Modified Cetyl Betaine Surfactants in Personal Care Stepan researchers have developed a mild surfactant, derived from natural feedstocks, that works effectively with various hydrotropic surfactants to improve viscosity, foaming and mildness in hair and skin care products. Susan X. M. Dong, Branko Sajic and Anatoly Dameshek • Stepan Company
C
is an amphoteric surfactant that is made by reacting naturally-derived alkyl dimethyl tertiary amine with sodium monochloroacetate. In general, betaines are known to possess multifunctional properties in personal care hair and skin cleansing products including: viscosity building, foam volume enhancement, foam stability, improved skin and eye mildness and skin feel. Although mid-chain alkyl dimethyl and alkyl amidopropyl betaine surfactants are well known and extensively used in personal care products with conventional primary surfactants such as alkyl sulfates and alkyl ethoxy sulfates, they have not been found to function as efficient thickeners when combined with new generation sulfate-free surfactants. Sulfate-free personal care products have become very popular recently as evidenced by introduction of several new commercial brands, as well as new products under existing brands. According to Mintel and Chain Drug Review market research reports,1, 2 global hair care items boasting a sulfate-free formulation showed exponential growth since their launch in January 2006 through November 2009, and this was particularly evident in North America. In the U.S., L’Oréal introduced an EverPure sulfate-free product line with claims of anti-fade system, 100% sulETYL BETAINE
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fate-free and no harsh salt. From a unit sales perspective, these lines of shampoos and conditioners were the top sellers in the U.S. sulfate-free hair care market. Increased demand for sulfate-free products is further supported by a statement published in HAPPI,“More marketers are trying to develop mild cleaners that are free of sulfates.”3 Sulfate-free surfactants include the salts of methyl ester sulfonates (MES) and salts of sulfonated fatty acids (SFA). They have been used in detergents as primary surfactants for many years. These surfactants possess excellent foaming and cleansing properties in liquid dishwashing detergents and heavy duty liquids, as described in detail in several U.S. patents.4-6 However, due to the hydrotropic properties of salts of MES and salts of SFA, products containing these materials usually have viscosity of less than 1,000 centipoises (cps). Building viscosity of personal care finished products based on salts of MES, salts of SFA and alpha olefin sulfonates (AOS) has been a challenge in the surfactant industry for many years. Amphosol CDB Special was developed to meet these technical, economic and market challenges.
Experimental Details The chemicals used in the study are all happi.com
available from Stepan Company. AlphaStep PC-48 (PC-48, sodium salt of methyl ester sulfonates and sodium salt of sulfonated fatty acid), Bioterge AS-40 AOS (sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate), Steol CS-230 (SLES-2, sodium laureth-2 sulfate), Amphososl HCA (CAPB, cocamidopropyl betaine), Stepan-Mild LSB (LSB, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and disodium laureth sulfosuccinate), Stepan-Mild PCL (PCL, sodium methyl-2 sulfolaurate, disodium 2sulfolaurate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate), Amphosol CDB Special (CDB, cetyl betaine), Stepanol WA-Extra (SLS, sodium lauryl sulfate). Stepan’s Amphosol CDB Special improves viscosity and foam in shampoo formulas.
All formulations were prepared in DI water. The pH of all experimental formulations was adjusted to 5~6 using citric acid or sodium hydroxide. Viscosity was measured with a Brookfield May 2011
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Figure 1. Viscosity-salt response for Alpha-Step PC-48 and Amphosol CDB Special system at different ratios. The total surfactant active concentration was fixed at 15%.
Figure 2. Viscosity-salt response for Alpha-Step PC-48 and Amphosol CDB Special at different active ratios and various total active concentrations.
LVT viscometer using spindle number 3 or 4, 12rpm at 25ºC. Foam volume was measured at 0.2% surfactant active concentration in Chicago tap water at 25ºC. A sample solution of 100.0g was slowly added to a 500ml graduated cylinder to minimize the foam. Castor oil (2.0g) was added to the graduated cylinder as appropriate. Cylinders were placed into a cylinder inversion machine (customer made) and inverted 10 times. Cylinders were allowed to settle for 15 seconds. The total foam volume was then recorded. Zein protein solublization was carried out using a 1% active surfactant solution at 45ºC. Zein protein (1.5g) was added to 25ml of surfactant solution and mixed at 300rpm for 1 hour. The residual protein was filtered, rinsed with DI water and dried. The weight of unsolublized protein was measured and the solubility was calculated. A zein score was obtained by comparing the solubility of zein protein in each surfactant to the solubility of sodium lauryl sulfate (control) standardized at a value of 100. Hair color wash fastness was carried out using European blonde hair (about 8 inches long and ~5g). Garnier 660, Intense Auburn Vibrant Colors by Nutrisse, was the colorant. Hair was colored according to the product instructions. Hair swatches were allowed to dry completely at room temperature before washing and then washed by applying 1ml of the experimental shampoo to the hair. The shampoo was worked into a lather using gloved fingers for 30 seconds, followed by rinsing under running tap water (~98°F) for 30 seconds. The hair was pat-dried with a paper towel. The washing procedure was repeated three times and then 10 times. Following washing procedure, hair swatches were allowed to air dry completely at room temperature. The hair swatches were then combed, and the color reflectance measurements were taken using a spectrophotometer (CM-2600 from Minolta). The difference in color intensity was calculated using the following formula:
Results and Discussion
ΔE = ΔEunwashed - ΔEwashed. May 2011
Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) has been extensively used as a secondary surfactant in personal care applications. CAPB helps to attain desired viscosity and improves foam of cleansing products based on primary surfactants such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates. However, when CAPB is used in combination with MES/SFA, it did not show any significant viscosity building property (Figure 1). Amphosol CDB Special is a modified cetyl betaine. It is a 30% active clear liquid in water with viscosity ~200cps. Therefore, Amphosol CDB Special does not pose the handling problem associated with the traditional cetyl betaine that has extremely high viscosity and stringy consistency. When used as a secondary surfactant in a sulfate-free system, CDB Special shows significant improvement in viscosity building property when compared to CAPB. Figure 1 demonstrates viscosity-building benefits for AlphaStep PC-48 using Amphosol CDB Special. The total active surfactant concentration is held constant at 15% for all experimental formulations, but the ratio between PC-48 and CDB Special varies. In order to build viscosity of a composition based on PC-48 primary surfactant, the ratio between PC-48 and CDB Special must be optimized. If the PC-48:CDB Special ratio is 4:1 (more PC-48 is present), there is no appreciable viscosity building, even with 3% sodium chloride. However, if the ratio is 2:1 or higher (more CDB Special is present), there is a significant viscosity increase with the addition of small concentration of NaCl salt. For example, a gel product consistency can be obtained at 1.5:1 of PC-48:CDB Special ratio. The viscosity benefit was only observed with CDB Special system. The PC-48:CAPB system did not show such efficient viscosity increase under the same conditions. There was no significant viscosity increase even when the ratios between PC-48 and CAPB were in favor of CAPB with sodium chloride. The efficiency of CDB Special on the viscosity building of formulated systems based on PC-48 was further explored at lower surfactant active concentrations. Figure 2 shows surfactant systems
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Figure 3. Viscosity-salt response for 15% active Stepan-Mild LSB, StepanMild PCL and Bio-Terge AS-40 with Amphosol CDB Special.
with 8~12% total active surfactant concentration. The results clearly show that even for an 8% surfactant system, viscosity of more than 6,000cps can be achieved with 1.5% sodium chloride. The efficiency of CDB Special to build viscosity of compositions at very low total surfactant active range makes this technology suitable for use in economy personal care cleansing formulations. In addition to PC-48, CDB Special was also tested in various Stepan sulfate-free products, such as LSB, PCL and AOS. The viscosity-salt response at 15% total active and foaming results are presented in Figures 3 and 4 respectively. It should be noted that the ratio between the primary surfactant and CDB Special varies depending on the system. For example, LSB to CDB Spe-
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Figure 4. Foaming performance of different sulfate-free systems based on Amphosol CDB Special. Foam volume was determined using the cylinder inversion test at 0.2% active.
cial was chosen at a 12:3 ratio, while AOS to CDB was chosen at an 11:4 ratio. The ratio selection was based on the viscosity building property of each surfactant system (Figure 3). Figure 3 shows that CDB Special can effectively build viscosity of more than 5,000cps of these sulfate-free surfactant systems with less than 1.5% sodium chloride. These systems are typically difficult to thicken with a secondary surfactant and NaCl. For example, AOS/CAPB system often requires more than 4% salt to achieve the desired viscosity.7 Furthermore, AOS:CAPB at 11:4 ratio and 15% active concentration has viscosity of ~300cps with 1.5% NaCl. However, when CAPB is replaced in the same formulation with CDB Special, the resulting viscosity is ~ 22,000cps. In this case, CDB Special is about 70 times more efficient in viscosity buildCetyl betaine surfactants ing when compared to CAPB. are extremely mild to skin and eyes. CDB Special not only improves the viscosity building property of sulfate-free systems but also enhances foaming when used as a secondary surfactant. The foaming properties of CDB Special in combination with the sulfatefree surfactants are presented in Figure 4. The foam volume was obtained with 0.2% active surfactant solution and compared to a SLES:CAPB control under the same testing conditions. The results show that sulfate-free systems with CDB Special perform equal to or better than the control in foam volume. Preliminary results show that
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May 2011
Cetyl Betaine Surfactants
Figure 5. Color washing fastness for different sulfate-free systems with Amphosol CDB Special as the secondary surfactant on European blonde hair colored with Garnier 660 (Intense Auburn) washed with 15% active at ~35°C. The results above represent average value of two hair swatches with multiple readings.
CDB Special works effectively with other sulfate-free mild surfactant systems such as sarcosinate, sulfosuccinate and glutamate. These surfactants are commonly used in personal cleansing products and most of them have hydrotropic properties, which makes it difficult to build viscosity especially when these surfactants are used as primary surfactants. The experimental formulations based on sulfate-free surfactant systems were also tested for hair color washing fastness property. The results of this study are shown in Figure 5. The hair color washing fastness was carried out according to the procedures given in the experimental section. The total color difference before and after washing was recorded as ΔE (Formula 1). The smaller the ΔE indicates less color change or stated another way, better color washing fastness. The sulfate-free systems containing CDB Special had better hair color washing fastness compared to the SLES-2: CAPB (control) at 4:1 ratio.
Formula 1
Figure 6. Zein protein solubilization score for sulfate-free compositions based on Amphosol CDB Special compared to SLS (control). The protein solubilization test was carried out at 1% active.
Figure 6 show that the surfactant systems with CDB Special had lower zein protein scores, which indicates that they were milder than the anionic surfactant alone. In another words, CDB Special improves the mildness of the anionic surfactants.
Conclusions Amphosol CDB Special is a mild surfactant derived from naturalbased feedstocks. CDB Special was found to be an efficient viscosity builder for sulfate-free anionic surfactants specifically designed for cold processing and easy handling. It works effectively with various hydrotropic surfactants to improve viscosity, foaming and mildness. Alpha-Step PC-48:Amphosol CDB Special system allows formulation of viscous sulfate-free, mild, naturally-derived hair and skin cleansing products. •
More Information: Stepan, Northfield, IL, Tel: 847-446-7500; Website: www.stepan.com; Email:
[email protected]
References
L* = Lightness a* = +red/-green b* = +red/-blue b* = +red/-blue Another benefit of CDB Special is that it improves the mildness of anionic surfactants. The mildness was evaluated using in-vitro zein protein solubilization test. The results are presented in Figure 6. The amount of protein solubilized by a single surfactant or a surfactant system correlates to its mildness. A mild surfactant solubilizes less protein. Since the sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is well known as an irritating surfactant, it was used as a positive control during the test. Its solubility for zein protein was normalized to a score of 100. The solubility of other surfactants was compared to SLS. A lower zein score indicates better mildness. The results in May 2011
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1. Mintel Insight and Impact. Examining Sulfate-free Formulations in Hair Care. December 2009 Report. 2. Chain Drug Review. Sulfate-free Items Catch On. High-Beam Research, March 16, 2009. 3. Shoaib, Arif, Sulfate-Free Personal Cleansers, HAPPI,Vol. 45(9), 93-96, September, 2008. 4. Sajic et al., U.S. Patent 5,616,781, Liquid Detergent Compositions Comprising Salts of Alpha Sulfonated Fatty Acid Esters and Anionic Surfactants, Apr. 1, 1997. 5. Sajic et al., U.S. Patent 5,637,758, Liquid Detergent Compositions Comprising Salts of Alpha Sulfonated Fatty Acid Esters and Anionic Surfactants, Jun. 1, 1997. 6. Sajic et al., U.S. Patent 5,945,394, Heavy Duty Liquid Detergent Compositions Comprising Salts of α-Sulfonated Fatty Acid Methyl Esters and Use of αSulfonated Fatty Acid Salts to Inhibit Redeposition of Soil on Fabric, Aug. 31, 1999. 7. Sulfate-Free Personal Cleansers, Shoaib Arif, Presentation on SCC Teamworks Tradeshow, March, 2008.
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New Products
M-I-C…SEE THIS NEW SOAP FROM METHOD extract, high in Omega 3 fatty acids to infuse moisture for added hydration. FX Wild Harvest hair care line offers 30 shampoos, conditioners and stylers for all hair types. More info: www.fxwildharvest.com
Xlear Adds Sponge Floss with Xylitol • Xlear, Inc. has rolled out Spry Sponge Floss with Xylitol, a shred-resistant dental floss that consists of multiple spongy strands of expanded nylon fibers that contain xylitol. According to Blaine Yates, chief executive officer of Xlear, Inc. “the floss com-
famous mice, Mickey and Minnie.
•
New Method Mickey and Minnie Mouse soaps (8.5oz/$4.49) are gentle ecohand wash formulas that leave hands clean and smelling great. Scents include Lemonade Mickey and Strawberry Fizz Minnie. The launch marks the first time that Method has partnered with a company to create an entire new bottle for its hand soap line. More info: www.methodhome.com
Stop Bugging Me! Bed Bug Treatment • There’s another new bed bug treatment
This new floss from Spry features xylitol and
• Sleek styles are easily achieved with the new FX Wild Harvest Hydra Silk collection. The products—$6.99 each at Walgreens, Albertsons, CVS, Eckerd, Rite Aid and Walmart—contain innovative formulations that blend natural, wild, ingredients harvested from different regions of the world, according to the company. The FX Wild Harvest Hydra Silk collection includes Hydra Silk Drops, a lightweight smoothing and polishing hair serum infused with lotus flower extract; as well as Hydra Silk Shampoo, featuring organic seaweed extract to hydrate and strengthen tresses; and Hydra Silk Conditioner, which includes pure caviar 124 • happi
expanded its collection of argan oil products.
& Shine Leave-In Conditioner and Oil Moisturizer. The restorative Moisture & Shine Shampoo (12oz/$5.29) is sulfate-free and delivers intense shine while it gently cleanses the hair, according to Colomer. More info: www.cremeofnature.com
Method has partnered with the world’s most
New Hydra Silk From FX Wild Harvest
Colomer USA’s Creme of Nature brand has
smooth fibers that provide comfort.
bines patented smooth fibers with xylitol to provide comfort and cleaning power that can effectively remove debris from between teeth, around appliances and in wide spaces.” More info: www.sprydental.com
More Argan Oil Products From Crème of Nature • Crème of Nature has expanded its line of products with certified organic argan oil from Morocco with five new products including the Crème of Nature with Argan Oil Treatment, Moisture & Shine Shampoo, Intensive Conditioning Treatment, Strength happi.com
on the market—Stop Bugging Me!, a pesticide-free treatment for home and commercial use. The product is billed as a completely natural, green treatment that contains 2-phenethyl propionate, eugenol, sodium lauryl sulfate, geraniol and cinnamon oil with aromatic bark. More info: www.stopbuggingme.com
Xen-Tan Collaborates with E! • From elegant gowns and perfectly pinned hair to sky-high stilettos and sparkling statement jewelry, there is one thing celebrities all have in common come award season—a golden, sun-kissed glow. Therefore, Xen-Tan joined forces with E! Entertainment to present E! Live From The Red Carpet Custom Self-Tanner ($43, 7.5 oz), now available at Ulta stores. According to the company, the product lets the user control and customize every application. Featuring dual chambers, a May 2011
New Products
self-tan formula is on the white side, while a cosmetic bronzer is on the brown side for an instant red carpet glow. Plus, E! Live From The Red Carpet SelfTanner combines a cucumber-melon scent with a breakthrough deodorant ingredient
Thermafuse f450° One Pass was designed for flat iron fanatics.
products via Cuticle Fusion Complex, a combination of certified organic olive oil, blue agave nectar, cactus flower and blue lotus flower. It has a light scent of blue agave, citrus and vanilla. More info: www.thermafuse.com
New Hair Masques From Bosley Pro Strength
E! Live From The Red Carpet Self Tanner has a deodorant ingredient to block self-tan odor.
• that completely blocks self-tan odor, according to the company. More info: www.ulta.com
Trish McEvoy Adds New Eye Brightener •
New at Trish McEvoy this month is Eye Base Essentials in Rested ($25). Look instantly brighteyed and lock shadow in place with Trish’s upper-eye brightener in a brand new shade. The product is waterproof, creaseproof and dermatologist tested for all-day wear, said the company. More info: www. trishmcevoy.com Trish McEvoy has added Eye Base Essentials in Rested.
ThermaFuse f450° One Pass For Flat Iron Styling • For flat iron fanatics, ThermaFuse offers new f450° One Pass (3oz/$25) a hot iron-activated smoothing crème. It is said to be infused with rich moisture and proteins designed to combat the brittleness caused by extreme heat. Thermafuse contends that the product controls cuticle abrasion 80% more effectively than competing May 2011
Bosley Professional Strength has introduced Healthy Hair Masques. The unisex Healthy Hair Moisture Masque and Healthy Hair Strengthening Masque provide color-safe deep conditioning specially formulated to work within the Bosley Professional Strength regimen, according to the company. The Strengthening Masque contains biotin and vegetable proteins, chamomile and jojoba extract. The Moisture Masque contains a blend of mango and shea butters with Brazilian palm tree and avocado oils. Both masques feature LifeXtend Complex to nourish hair and ColorKeeper Complex to extend color. More info: www.bosleypro.com
Arbonne Revamps Triple Action Mascara • Arbonne International has reformulated its Triple Action Mascara ($30). Created from an entirely updated botanical ingredient profile, the new mascara delivers thick, long and defined lashes, while resisting smudging, according to the company. Key ingredients Arbonne has reformulated its Triple Action Mascara to offer defined lashes resistant to smudging.
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include polypeptides, lycium barbarum (gogi) fruit extract, marrubium vulgare, buddleja davidii, thyme extract, ribose, algae extract and beta vulgaris (beet) root extract. More info: www.arbonne.com
Non-Scents Wash New At Earth Mama Angel Baby •
Earth Mama Angel Baby has added Natural Non-Scents Hand to Toe Wash, which is USDA certified, made with organic ingredients and without triclosan. Natural Non-Scents Hand to Toe Wash is as close to being really scent-free as a product can naturally get, according to the Clackamas, OR-based company. More info: www.earthmamaangelbaby.com
Garnier Goes Green • Now there’s a new way to get cleaner, healthier hair: Garnier Fructis’ first 92% biodegradable formulas— Garnier Fructis Pure Clean Shampoo and Conditioner. According to the company, the products have no silicones, parabens or dyes. The “Ultra-Clean” system—with the power of the antioxidant acerola berry—boosts the health of hair while leaving no heavy residue beGarnier Fructis Pure Clean hind, according to Shampoo is paraben- and the company. The shampoo silicone-free. and conditioner debuted in the mass market for $3.99 each. More info: www.garnier.com
Iden International Introduces Texture Cream • Iden International’s latest innovation is a texture cream ($16), a humidity resistant, multifunctional texturizer rich in olive oil to add moisture into the hair. Iden’s signature bee propolis provides natural sun protection to keep hair color vibrant. More info: http://idencosmetics.com • happi • 125
Packaging News
CALMAR’S CURVE MINI TRIGGER SPRAYERS AVAILABLE FROM MCKERNAN • McKernan Packaging is adding 20/ 410 “Curve” Mini Trigger Sprayers by Calmar to its continuous stock wholesale line. These components will be in stock and can be purchased at minimum order quanti- These sprayers from McKernan Packaging are ties as well as by the ideal for a variety of personal care products. truckload with no lead times, according to the company. McKernan also stocks the Calmar mini trigger in a 24/410 finish. More info: www.mckernan.com
tion, Oasis. The inventive packaging is divided in half; in the upper part of the sphere is a treatment for night, and in the lower, one for day—making it perfect for travel. More info: www.h2oplus.com
Hugo Naturals’ New Face for the Future • Hugo Naturals, a manufacturer and marketer of natural personal care products, recently debuted a new look. The brand will feature new packaging across its skin care range, updating its appeal and helping the products to stand out more in stores, according to the company. “We used the invaluable input of our consumers and retail partners to make the packaging more impactful and more visible on the shelf,” said Debra Saavedra, co-founder of Hugo Naturals.
The Latest Buzz at Berlin Packaging • Berlin Packaging, a leading ISO 9001 certified provider of packaging solutions nationwide, continues to stand out among suppliers in the industry by achieving 99% on-time delivery for almost seven consecutive years, according to the company. It generates more than 30,000 shipments per month of containers and closures. More info: www.berlinpackaging.com
New Sea Sphere Hydrating Duo • H2O Plus, a marine-sourced skin care range, unveiled its Oasis Sea Sphere Hydrating Duo, a SKU pairing two products— a daytime moisture cream and overnight repair lotion—in one jar. According to the company, this sphere showcases two of H2O Plus’ best-selling beauty products from its oil-free skin care collec-
H2O Plus merges two products in one with the new Sea Sphere Hydrating Duo.
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Hugo Naturals revamped its skin care range with green leafy accents over an earthy brown background on its packaging.
“The key design objective was to illustrate the handcrafted pure, natural luxury that the Hugo Naturals brand represents, and the design and color palette were created accordingly with great attention to every detail.” According to Saavedra, Hugo Naturals operates under the guideline that what you put on your body is as important as what you put in it. As such, the deep, lush brown background and green leafy accents depict Hugo Naturals’ earth-friendly dedication and honesty, as well as its novel natural ingredients that are hand-selected from around the world, according to the company. The design also pays homage to the background that the Hugo Naturals co-founders have in organic farming. The butterfly on the Hugo Naturals logo symbolizes transformation. Distinctive color bands denote each scent, making it easy for consumers to identify their favorites. The package containers remain transparent in order to show the purity of every product, said the company. More info: www.hugonaturals.com •
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May 2011
SCC News
ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC SEMINAR IS JUNE 2-3 IN LAS VEGAS The 2011 Annual Scientific Seminar, hosted by Area III, will take place June 2-3, 2011 at the Bellagio Resort in Las Vegas, NV. Here is a look at the sessions scheduled: • Thursday, June 2: Session A—Skin, with Howard Epstein, EMD Chemicals, Inc. as moderator. The session will open with the Henry Maso Keynote Award Lecture, sponsored by the Maso family and Siltech Corp. Dr. Reinhold Dauskardt of Stanford University will present “Biomechanics of the Barrier Function of Human Skin: Predicting Skin Damage and the Effects of Cosmetic Treatments.” Session B—Hair, with Joseph Dallal of ISP as moderator. Presentation will include “Maltodextrin Based Styling Polymers,” “Manipulating the Bulk Properties of Hair,” and “Hair Setting with Hot Irons and Heat Activation.” • Friday, June 3, Session C—Genomics, with a Martha Tate of Kimberly-Clark as moderator. Presentations will include “Using Human Genomic Microarrays in Personal Care,” “The Role of Clock and SITR-1 In Chormatin Remodeling: A New Code of Entry for DNA Repair in Human Skin,” and “Oridonine and the Anti-Oxidant Response Elements (A.R.E.): A Study of Coherence between Genomics, Proteomics and Clinical Results.” Session D—Sun, with Robert Bianchini of Merck Consumer Care as moderator. Presentations will include“Evaluation of PhotoToxic Effect of Fractionated Melanin: A Comparative Study Between Three Different Cell Lines,”“Stimulation of Skin Immunity and Langerhans Cells Protection Dramatically Reduces UV-Induced Skin Erythema and TEWL,” and “ Using Light Diffusion to Make Anti-Aging Claims.” More info: www.scconline.org
•
Bill Nye To Keynote NYSCC Conference • The New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) has tapped May 2011
celebrity scientist Bill Nye as the keynote speaker for its 2011 Technology Transfer Conference, which will be held Nov. 9 at the Pleasantdale Chateau in West Orange, NJ. Additional speakers for the all-day event include Prof. George John of CCNY, Greg Hillebrand of P&G and Louis Paul of Louis C. Paul & Associates. A speaker representing government will also be on the docket, as well as networking opportunities, a buffet lunch and posters. NYSCC has issued a call for abstracts for the event, with prizes for best posters of $8000 for first prize, $4000 for second prize and $2000 for third prize. Two honorable mention awards of $1000 will also be presented. Abstracts for research to be considered for the poster sessions must be submitted by Sept. 9. A limit of 10 posters will be accepted in each conference category, selected by the Conference Review Committee. Pre-registration for NYSCC members is $30 and $60 for non-members; students are $10. At the door, registration is $75. More info: www.nyscc.org
Young Scientist Recognition Awards • Beginning in 1993, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists initiated a program to recognize the achievements of the younger scientists working in the cosmetic industry. The 2010 winners of this award were: Rabab Ahmed, Darrick Cardone, Anna Weinstein and Edna Ambundo of Colgate-Palmolive; Erica Babson of Active Organics LLC; Christopher Casey, Garrett Vanderover and Stephanie Haller of Estée Lauder Companies; Jordan Cordiero of Kao Brands Company; Tiffany Florence of Mary Kay, Inc.; Katie Frey of Steris Corp.; Remona Gopaul of Nu Skin Enterprise; Thomas Lehman of Mansfield-King; Tiffany Oliphant of Floratech and Jeff Seidling of Kimberly-Clark. • happi.com
SCC Meetings for 2011 May 10-11: NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, Edison, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org May 19: Long Island Chapter, Meeting. More info: www.liscc.org May 19: Midwest Chapter Social Night. More info: www.midwestscc.org May 19: Southwest Chapter Meeting. More info: www.swscc.org May 26: Ontario Chapter Monthly Meeting, The Venetian, Vaughn, ON. More info: www.ontarioscc.org June 2-3: SCC Annual Scientific Seminar, Bellagio, Las Vegas, NV. More info: www.scconline.org June 13: Carolina Chapter Social Event, Durham Bulls Baseball, Durham, NC. More info: www.carolinascc.org June 13-14: Carolina Chapter, CEP Skin Moisturization and Emolliency, Vispi Kanga, Durham, NC. More info: www.carolinascc.org June 15: Mid-Atlantic Chapter Charity Event, Richmond Flying Squirrels Baseball, Richmond, VA. More info: www.midatlanticscc.com June 16: Southwest Chapter ASRS Mary Kay Tour, Dallas, TX. More info: www.swscc.org June 27: Twin Cities Annual Golf Event. More info: www.tccscc.org July 12: Midwest Chapter Golf Outing. More info: www.midwestscc.org July 14: St. Louis Chapter Technical Meeting (Dinner). More info: www.scconline.org July 19: Ontario 11th Annual Golf Tournament, Caledon Woods Golf Club. More info: www.ontarioscc.org July 29: New York Chapter Golf Outing, Crystal Springs, Hamburg, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org Sept. 13: Midwest Chapter Scientific Dinner and Education Meeting. More info: www.midwestscc.org happi • 127
Meetings
NYSCC SUPPLIERS’ DAY SET FOR MAY 10 AND 11 May 6: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Ladies Day Luncheon, The New York Hilton and Towers, New York, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com
May 10-11: New York Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day, The New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center, Edison, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org
May 12-14: Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, New York, NY. More info: www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com
May 17: Luxe Pack Art of Packaging Award Gala, New York’s University Club, New York, NY. More info: www.luxepacknewyork.com
Major Meetings at a Glance May 10-11: New York Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day, The New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center, Edison, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org
June 2-3: Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2011 Annual Scientific Seminar, Bellagio Resort, Las Vegas, NV. More info: www.scconline.org
June 6-8: CESIO 8th World Surfactant Congress, Vienna, Austria. More info: www.cesio2011.com
June 28-30: HBA Global Expo, Jacob Javits Center, New York, NY. More info: www.hbaexpo.com
Sept. 15-17: Florida Chapter, Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Sunscreen Symposium, Disney’s Yacht and Beach Club, Walt Disney World, Orlando, FL. More info: www.flscc.org/sunscreensymposium.html
Oct. 25-26: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) California Suppliers’ Day, Long Beach, CA. More info: www.caliscc.org
May 18-19: Luxe Pack New York, The Metropolitan Pavilion and Altman Building, New York, NY.
Dec. 4-8: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) 98th Annual Meeting, Marriott Harbor Beach Resort, Fort Lauderdale, FL.
More info: www.luxepacknewyork.com
More info: www.cspa.org
May 20: Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) 2011 Beauty Awards Luncheon, Waldorf Astoria, New York, NY.
Dec. 8-9: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Meeting, New York Hilton, New York, NY.
More info: www.cew.org
May 24-25: Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA) International Trade Show, RAI Exhibition Centre, Amsterdam, The Netherlands. More info: www.plma.com
May 25: The Fragrance Foundation FiFi Awards, The Tent in Damrosch Park Lincoln Center, New York, NY.
More info: www.scconline.org
2012 Jan. 30-Feb. 4: The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) Annual Meeting, Grand Lakes Marriott, Orlando, FL. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org
May 31-June 1: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Scientific Seminar 2012, Charleston Marriott, Charleston, SC. More info: www.scconline.org
Oct. 15-18: International Federation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) 27th Congress, South Africa.
More info: www.fragrance.org
June 2-3: Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2011 Annual Scientific Seminar, Bellagio Resort, Las Vegas, NV. More info: www.scconline.org
June 8: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Luncheon, The Manhattan Club, New York, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com
June 6-8: CESIO 8th World Surfactant Congress and Business Convention, Austria Center Vienna, Austria. More info: www.cesio-congress.eu 128 • happi
More info: www.ifscc2012.co.za
June 9: Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) Women in Beauty Series, The Harmonie Club, New York, NY.
New York, NY. More info: www.apssny.org
June 9-10: Sustainable Fragrances, Crystal Gateway Marriott, Arlington, VA.
June 13-16: Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA) Executive Education Program, St. Joseph’s University, Philadelphia, PA.
More info: www.sustainablefragrances.com
More info: www.plma.com
June 10-12: Aesthetic Plastic Surgery and Anti Aging Medicine: The Next Generation Symposium, Waldorf Astoria,
June 14-16: World of Wipes 2011, Grand Hyatt Hotel, Atlanta, GA.
More info: www.cew.org
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More info: www.inda.org May 2011
Meetings
June 20: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Golf Outing, Colonia, NJ. More info: www.cibsonline.com
June 21-23: Annual Green Chemistry Conference, Capital Hilton Hotel, Washington, D.C. More info: http://acswebcontent.acs.org/gcande
June 21-23: World Conference on Oilseed Processing, Fats & Oils Processing, Biofuels & Applications, Hilton Izmir, Turkey. More info: www.aocs.org/goto/Turkey2011
June 22: Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce (WFFC) Woman of the Year Dinner, The Chart House, Pier D-T Lincoln Harbor, Weehawken, NJ. More info: www.wffc.org
June 23-24: MakeUp in Paris, Paris, France. More info: Beauteam, Tel: +33-1-42-73-96-61, E-mail:
[email protected]
June 28-30: HBA Global Expo, Jacob Javits Center, New York, NY. More info: www.hbaexpo.com
Sept. 14: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Networking Luncheon, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, New York, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com
Sept. 14-15: MakeUp in New York, Studio 450, New York, NY. More info: Beauteam, Tel: +33-1-42-73-96-61, E-mail:
[email protected]
Sept. 15-17: Florida Chapter, Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Sunscreen Symposium, Disney’s Yacht and Beach Club, Walt Disney World, Orlando, FL. More info: www.flscc.org /sunscreensymposium.html
More info: www.caliscc.org
Nov. 1-3: International Federation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Conference, Bangkok, Thailand. More info:
[email protected]
Nov. 7-9: International Spa Association Conference and Expo, Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas, NV. More info: www.experienceispa.com
Nov. 9: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Members Only Luncheon, The Harvard Club, New York, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com
Sept. 21: Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) Newsmaker Forum, A Conversation with Andrea Jung of Avon, The Harmonie Club, New York City.
Nov. 13-15: Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA) 2011 Private Label Trade Show, Rosemont Convention Center, Chicago, IL.
More info: www.cew.org
More info: www.plma.com
Sept. 21: HBA Global Virtual Trade Show: Re-Connect.
Dec. 4-8: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) 98th Annual Meeting, Marriott Harbor Beach Resort, Fort Lauderdale, FL.
More info: Kevin Roach,
[email protected], www.hbaexpo.com
June 29: 8th Annual ICMAD CITY Awards, New York, NY.
Sept. 24-26: Outlook Personal Care Conference, Budapest, Hungary.
More info: www.icmad.org
More info: www.edana.org
July 14: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Summer Luncheon, Central Park Boathouse, New York, NY.
Sept. 24-26: Day Spa Association ProKnowledge Workshops, Sheraton Airport Hotel, Portland, OR.
More info: www.cibsonline.com
More info: www.dayspaassociation.com
July 16-18: Day Spa Association ProKnowledge Workshops, Crowne Plaza and Suites, Minneapolis, MN.
Oct. 12: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Networking Luncheon, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, New York, NY.
More info: www.proknowledgeworkshops.com
(SCC) California Suppliers’ Day, Long Beach, CA.
More info: www.cibsonline.com
More info: www.cspa.org
Dec. 8-9: Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Meeting, New York Hilton, New York, NY. More info: www.scconline.org
Dec. 14: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Networking Luncheon, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, New York, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com
2012
July 31-Aug. 2: Cosmoprof North America 2011, Cosmoprof North America, Mandalay Bay Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV.
Oct. 16-19: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) New Horizons 2011, Ponte Vedra, FL.
More info: www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com
More info: www.cspa.org
Aug. 10: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Networking Luncheon, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, New York, NY.
Oct. 17-21: 14th AOCS Latin American Congress and Exhibition on Fats & Oils, The Hilton, Cartagena, Colombia.
More info: www.cibsonline.com
Oct. 18-21: ISSA/Interclean North America, Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV.
May 31-June 1: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Scientific Seminar 2012, Charleston Marriott, Charleston, SC.
More info: www.issa.com
More info: www.scconline.org
Oct. 19-21: Luxe Pack Monaco, Grimaldi Forum, Monaco.
Oct. 15-18: International Federation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) 27th Congress, South Africa.
Aug. 13-15: Day Spa Association ProKnowledge Workshops, Wyndham Indianapolis West, Indianapolis, IN. More info: www.proknowledgeworkshops.com
Sept. 12-14: Beyond Beauty Paris, Porte de Versailles, France. More info: www.beyondbeautyparis.com May 2011
More info: www.aocs.org
More info: www.luxepack.com
Oct. 25-26: Society of Cosmetic Chemists happi.com
Jan. 24-26: Vision Consumer Products Conference, Hotel Intercontinental, New Orleans, LA. More info: www.inda.org
Jan. 30-Feb. 4: The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) Annual Meeting, Grand Lakes Marriott, Orlando, FL. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org
More info: www.ifscc2012.co.za
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Financial News
BLYTH IS GETTING BIGGER WITH PROPER NUTRITION • Blyth Inc., known for marketing its home fragrances and decor through house parties, has completed the second phase of its acquisition of ViSalus Sciences. The company said it now owns 57.5% of ViSalus Sciences, which sells weight management products, nutrition supplements and energy drinks through independent distributors. “ViSalus is a 90 day fitness challenge that has resonated with consumers and distributors for its outstanding products, an industry-leading earning opportunity and a simple business model,”said Robert B. Goergen, Blyth’s chairman and chief executive officer. “Blyth is proud to partner with the ViSalus founders, management team and independent distributors as they create thousands of businesses across the country. Moreover, increasing our ownership in ViSalus furthers Blyth’s strategic focus on direct-to-consumer businesses.” Blyth first invested in ViSalus in August 2008, acquiring a 43.6% stake for $13 million, according to a filing with the Securities and Exchange Commission. Financial de-
tails of the latest phase were not disclosed. Under the agreement, Blyth said it will be required to buy more of ViSalus’ stock in 2012 and 2013 if ViSalus meets predefined operating targets.
Inter Parfums Reports A 12.4% Gain in 2010 Sales • Inter Parfums, Inc. announced that net sales for 2010 increased 12.4% to $460.4 million. However, net sales for the fourth quarter of 2010 reached $112.5 million, off slightly from $112.9 million recorded in the fourth quarter of 2009. On the subject of U.S.-based operations, Jean Madar, chairman and chief executive officer, pointed out, “As expected, following certain inventory shortfalls in the third quarter that pushed those shipments into the fourth quarter, sales were 2% ahead of the final quarter of 2009. Due to the more than 50% increase in sales through the first half of 2010, sales by U.S.based operations for the year as a whole were 16.2% ahead of 2009.” Looking forward, Madar continued, “Having previously reported on our pres-
Erno Laszlo Gets a New Owner • The RBS Special Opportunities Fund, managed by RBS Equity Finance has backed Charles Denton, former chief executive officer of Molton Brown, to acquire the iconic U.S. luxury skin care brand Erno Laszlo. The company was previously owned by Fox Paine, who bought the business in 2002. Lindsey McMurray, head of RBS Equity Finance, said, “We’re delighted to be working with Charles in order to realize the full potential of this famous brand. Erno Laszlo is a unique luxury proposition with a discerning loyal following. We believe it is well positioned to take advantage of the growing demand for premium anti-aging products with proven efficacy.” 130 • happi
Denton said, “I’m incredibly excited about the partnership with RBS Equity Finance and our acquisition of this exceptional beauty brand. The extraordinary heritage and iconic status of Laszlo will provide a wonderful foundation as we seek to expand the business globally.” Erno Laszlo introduced a pioneering skin care regime back in 1927. His unique philosophy was to create custom products which were specifically formulated to confront the signs of premature aging, environmental hazards and the stress of modern lifestyles. RBS Equity Finance appointed Peter Williams, former CEO of Selfridges department store group, as chairman. happi.com
tige lineup for 2011, I am pleased to announce a new addition. To further strengthen the Burberry brand’s potential for sustained growth in the years ahead, following the creative and development phases initiated in early 2010, a major new women’s line will be launched in fall 2011.” With respect to 2011 guidance, Russell Greenberg, executive vice president and chief financial officer, stated, “In light of this important worldwide launch plus the integration of existing fragrance lines under the Boucheron brand, we have raised guidance for 2011 sales to approximately $525 million, with resulting net income attributable to Inter Parfums, Inc. of approximately $30 million.”
Financial Upswing At Yankee Candle • The Yankee Candle Company posted favorable financial results for the fourth quarter and full year ended Jan. 1, 2011. Sales for the fourth quarter of 2010 rose 6.3% to $291.6 million. Sales in the company’s wholesale business jumped 10.6% to $90.3 million, while retail sales climbed 4.6% to $201.3 million. For fiscal 2010, total company sales increased 7.7% to $733.7 million. Retail sales rose 6.2% to $426.3 million, while wholesale sales jumped 9.9% to $307.4 million.
Sales Rise Almost 12% At Alberto Culver • Alberto Culver Company posted results for its fourth quarter and fiscal year 2010 ended Sept. 30, 2010. For the fourth quarter, net sales increased 12.1% to $431.9 million. In the U.S., sales increased 3.5% in the fourth quarter due to growth in TreSemme and Nexxus. International sales on a reported basis increased 26.7%, as each international region generated organic sales growth, with May 2011
Financial News
Latin America and Canada being particularly strong. For the fiscal year, net sales for the fiscal year increased 11.4% to $1.60 billion. In September, the company entered into a definitive agreement in which Unilever will acquire all of the outstanding shares of Alberto Culver for $37.50 per share in cash, valuing the company at approximately $3.7 billion, as previously reported in HAPPI.
Physicians Formula Reports Flat 2010 Sales • Physicians Formula’s 2010 net sales increased 0.9% to $78.5 million. The company noted that, when adjusting 2009 for sales to the customer that discontinued the company’s products in mid2009, 2010 net sales would have increased 5.5% over the prior year. Its net income was $600,000. Ingrid Jackel, chairwoman and chief executive offi- Face powder from cer, stated, “Our Physicians Formula. 2010 full year results were consistent with our expectations, and we are entering 2011 with good momentum. In 2010, we grew the top-line with our continuing customers, and also showed excellent cost control, particularly in reducing the expense of our product returns and obsolescence.” For the fourth quarter, net sales slipped 8.1% to $20.5 million.
WD-40’s First Quarter Sales Rise 4% • WD-40 Company’s sales for the first quarter ended November 30, 2010 increased 4% to $80.9 million. Net income for the first quarter fell 4% to $9.1 million. “We had a solid performance in the first quarter that reflects the hard work and focus we have put into our four strategic initiatives, and that continues to serve us well,” said Garry O. Ridge, WD40 Company president and chief executive officer.“As it relates to the geographic May 2011
expansion strategic initiative, we have been successful in building our base business across the globe and we have seen robust growth in many international markets, while maintaining our gross margins above our target of 50%.” WD-40 said its focus on its multi-purpose strategic initiative delivered sales growth during the first quarter. The first quarter multi-purpose maintenance products sales, which include the WD-40, 3In-One, and Blue Works brands, were $66.5 million, up 10%. However, the company’s home care and cleaning products sales, which include all other brands, fell 16% to $14.4 million. Americas’ segment first quarter sales slipped 10% to $39.2 million. However, Europe segment sales in the first quarter rose 13% to $30.8 million. Asia-Pacific segment first quarter sales jumped 61% to $11.0 million.
Zep’s First Quarter Sales Rise 24% • Zep Inc.’s revenues for the first fiscal quarter ended Nov. 30, 2010 rose 24% to $157.4 million. Zep said its first quarter fiscal 2011 sales performance benefited from $37 million of acquisition-related revenue. Organic growth through sales to customers in the automotive and food end markets was more than offset by volume declines in the company’s other end markets, the company said. For example, sales to customers accessed through the retail channel were down from the same period in the prior year for two reasons. First, sales in the retail channel in the first quarter of fiscal 2010 benefited from promotions that were not expected to and that did not recur. Second, during fiscal 2010, the retail channel benefited from demand for sanitizer products in response to concerns regarding the H1N1 virus, according to Zep. Also, customers accessed through Zep’s industrial and institutional end markets— most notably manufacturing, schools and government customers—continue to be negatively impacted by sustained high rates happi.com
of unemployment and reduced government spending, the company stated in its financial release. Price increases contributed $2.5 million in revenue during the first quarter of fiscal 2011. The increases were taken to offset continued increases in commodity costs, including D-limonene, which is used in a broad range of citrus-based cleaning and plumbing products, the company said. “We are pleased with the financial and operational results we were able to achieve during the first quarter of fiscal 2011, particularly in light of the fact that organic sales growth, which we believe is adversely affected by sustained high unemployment, has not yet returned to the legacy business,” said John K. Morgan, chairman, president and chief executive officer. “With the Amrep, Waterbury and Niagara acquisitions, we are continuing to execute on a strategy to diversify our business into one that is better aligned with the overall markets we serve. These acquisitions enabled us to increase revenue by 24% in this fiscal year’s first quarter.” First quarter fiscal 2011 adjusted net income was $5.9 million, an increase of $0.7 million, according to the company.
CCA Industries Reports Sales Decline of 5% in Q1 • Total revenues for the first quarter of 2011 at CCA Industries, Inc. fell 5% to $12.6 million, while net income slipped 6% to $343,105. However, its new chief executive officer said he remains optimistic about full year results for 2011. “Under my watch as the new CEO, the company is revitalizing its marketing strategies for its core brands that will be implemented over the next year,” stated Dunnan Edell, president and CEO of CCA Industries. “We have a number of new product initiatives in the 2011 fiscal year that have generated some very positive response from our retail partners. We anticipate that those initiatives together with a reinvigorated media advertising program will lead to strengthening the sales and bottom line of our company over the course of the year.” • happi • 131
Supplier’s Corner
NATUREX LAUNCHES NEW ACTIVE FOR REJUVENATION •
Naturex rolled out a new Dragon’s blood extract, an innovative revitalizing active. According to the company, it promotes and protects the skin due to its antioxidant activity, by improving each skin layer. Dragon’s blood contains a broad range of naturally occurring compounds, many of which have been well studied. Due to these compounds, Dragon’s blood sap helps to protect the cells of the skin and regenerate the whole tissue. Dragon’s blood extract contains taspine, which stimulates the early phase of the wound healing process, by stimulation of the fibroblasts. More info: www.naturex.com
Lubrizol Debuts Cassia-Derived Cationic Polymers for Hair Care • Many consumers seek hair care products that claim the use of natural or naturally derived ingredients to make hair look and feel healthy. Demographic changes in age, ethnicity and affluence as well as the increasing use of hair color, styling products and shampoos have presented formulators with the challenge of developing hair care products capable of delivering enhanced conditioning to a diverse range of hair types. As a result, Lubrizol Corporation’s Noveon Consumer Specialties released its new Sensomer CT polymers (INCI: Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride). Derived from the Ayurvedic plant, cassia, it is said to offer improved deposition as well as enhanced conditioning in hair cleansing formulations, according to the company. Designed to meet the needs of a wide variety of hair types, Sensomer CT polymers are more efficient silicone deposition aids than traditional cationic conditioning polymers. This enables the use of lower levels of silicone and cationic polymer to deliver equivalent or better overall conditioning performance, according to the company. More info: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare 132 • happi
Rovi Cosmetics Launches Skin Care Actives • Last year, consumer research identified two major trends for 2011: new naturals and dermocosmetics. As a result, Rovi Cosmetics is launching two new actives targeting skin issues such as hyperpigmentation and impure skin. UniTone is an innovative active complex featuring the Ineocell delivery technology. It is proven to inhibit the tyrosinase activity. Furthermore, it reduces the skin‘s intracellular and extracellular melanin content, according to the company. Herbapurifine, an Ecocert compliant active against impure skin, is proven to inhibit pro-inflammatory proteins and to effectively inhibit propionibacterium acne, according to the company. It also reduces skin efflorescences (comedones, papels and pustules) while relieving itchiness and leaving a soft skin feel. The gentle active that unites the powerful properties of special plant extracts; i.e., Bu Gu Zhi (well-established in the traditional Chinese medicine), magnolia and willow bark, is ideally suited for impure skin in adults. More info: www.rovicosmetics.de/rovi2005/en/index
ISP Confirms Sorez Polymers As Ecolabel Compliant In Cleaning Products • Sorez polymers from ISP have been declared Ecolabel compliant within the European Union (EU) and may now be included in select cleaning products formulated for high performance and environmental quality, according to the company. The EU Ecolabel is the premier award backed by all EU governments for products and services that meet the highest environmental standards. ISP’s Sorez HS 100 polymer was certified in accordance with the Criteria on Substances and Ingredients outlined by The Department for Environment, Food and happi.com
Rural Affairs (Defra) and may be used in laundry detergents by companies wishing to claim the European Union Ecolabel. Readily biodegradable, Sorez 100 may also be included in laundry detergents formulated for sustainability. ISP’s Sorez HS 205 polymer, based on vinyl pyrrolidone, was declared Ecolabel compliant in all-purpose cleaners and cleaners of sanitary facilities. These polymers represent the first in a series of technologies ISP plans to certify for manufacturers focused on environmentally friendly formulations. More info: www.ispcorp.com
Hydrolite 6 from Symrise Ideal for Kids’ Formulations • At the end of 2010, the Danish government announced its plan to ban parabens in cosmetic products for children under the age of three. Hydrolite 6 from Symrise offers an alternative to manufacturers of skin care products for children. According to the company, Hydrolite 6 boosts the preservative efficacy of mild organic acids such as potassium sorbate and dehydroacetate, making the use of parabens unnecessary. Hydrolite 6 is also proven to increase skin’s moisture content, according to Symrise. Nearly odorless and colorless, it is suitable for most cosmetic systems. More info: www.symrise.com
AMP-Ultra PC Amino Alcohol New from ANGUS • ANGUS Chemical Company has developed new application testing that clearly demonstrates the unmatched performance benefits of AMP-Ultra PC amino alcohol in a range of hair styling formulations, according to the company. As the “global industry standard neutralizer” for hair styling products, it brings unique performance benefits to a range of hair styling attributes, such as high humidMay 2011
Supplier’s Corner
CLINICAL SPF TESTING INSTRUMENTATION ity curl retention and product stability, according to the company. More info: www.angus.com
Phytosan K Useful in Anti-Aging Products • CLR’s Phytosan K is said to boost collagen production, leading to firming and anti-wrinkle activity, according to the company. It also potentially supports the stabilization of a protein called p53, which has a factor in pigmentation.
Precision Solar Light Ultraviolet simulators and radiometers conform to FDA & COLIPA spectral irradiance standards for clinical SPF testing. Experience Used worldwide for over 40 years, providing consistent SPF results, year after year, lab after lab. Enhanced Multiport™ Features
Phytosan K is ideal for anti-aging skin care formulations.
It is able to reverse the aging process in skin and slowdown the aging process, especially aging caused by UV light. More info: www.clr-berlin.com
NEW Exposure Positioning System Optional Mobile Work Station >95% SPOT UNIFORMITY
Get Direct Access At Sederma Direct • Sederma has rolled out its new customer extranet. This customer service portal provides Sederma’s customers with the ability to access and download more detailed information and documentation about the entire product range, according to the company. “By registering, our customers can enjoy all the benefits of 24/7 access to premium content not available on the website. Their direct access to our extranet will ensure they stay connected to Sederma’s catalogue and news,” said Olga Gracioso, Sederma’s marketing and communication manager. Sederma’s extranet complements the existing Croda Personal Care (including Crodarom) site, all with the aim of creating a onestop-shop to make life easier for customers looking for product details. The development of the extranet was also the opportunity to re-design Sederma’s website in order to offer even more information to all visitors. More info: http://sederma.crodadirect.com
Expertise in Mint Leads To 25-30% Cost Saving Mint Oil • A.M. Todd debuted a new formulation that has led to significant savings potential for its key clients, according to the company. North American Peppermint Oil Natural, developed by A.M. Todd from 100% North American peppermint oils, provides a 2530% cost savings below current and forecasted mint market prices, according to the company. More info: www.amtodd.com • May 2011
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100 EAST GLENSIDE AVE. GLENSIDE, PA 19038 USA Ph: 1-215-517-8700 Fax: 1-215-517-8747 www.solarlight.com happi • 133
Industry News
ISP, TAKASAGO FORM ORAL CARE ALLIANCE • Personal care ingredients supplier International Specialty Products (ISP) and flavor and fragrance giant Takasago have formed an alliance to develop oral care innovations. Based on ISP’s complex coacervation encapsulation technology and Takasago’s unique flavors, the partnership will create new flavor and sensory approaches that elevate consumers’ experience in products such as toothpastes, mouthwashes and whiteners, the companies announced. Under the agreement, the companies will aim to commercialize new products using ISP’s encapsulation technology to deliver an impressive sensory experience based on Takasago’s flavors. The alliance enables the partners to more quickly commercialize encapsulated flavors with unique sensory benefits. With a global presence and extensive R&D capabilities, ISP and Takasago will share insights on developing products for customers in all key markets. Officials from both companies insist that oral care product manufacturers will be the ultimate beneficiary from the joint effort. “We’re excited to partner with a global flavor and fragrance leader such as Takasago to take our technology to a new level. Our encapsulation technology combined with Takasago’s unique flavors will produce exciting innovations for this segment of personal care,”said Jim Mish, senior vice president/general manager, ISP Personal Care.“These sensory benefits give oral care marketers many possibilities for new products, and our joint formulation and technical service capabilities will vigorously support their efforts.” “Under this alliance, we can now deliver our flavors in novel ways not previously possible. Takasago’s high-quality flavors and ISP’s state-of-the-art encapsulation process are a natural fit, and our customers will reap the value of the partnership,” said Brian Buck, senior vice president at Takasago Flavors Americas, 134 • happi
“We’re going to inject some real excitement into the oral care category.” The companies expect the alliance to produce novel sensory solutions in the near future. More info: www.ispcorp.com, www.takasago.com
‘Best Beauty Retailers’ Tour, ICMAD Conference At Cosmoprof North America • The organizers of Cosmoprof North America have unveiled a new initiative, “Best Beauty Retailers in Las Vegas Tour,” a custom field trip that will bring participants to a variety of retail establishments both on and off of the famous Las Vegas Strip. This one-of-a-kind project was developed specifically for Cosmoprof North America as a result of feedback and inquiries received from industry insiders and past attendees. Show organizers contend it is the perfect opportunity for independent store owners, as well as international visitors, to get acquainted with U.S. retailing concepts. The group of stores represents a wide variety of beauty categories: prestige, specialty, boutique, professional only, salons/ spas, masstige, general and multicultural markets and mass. The lineup includes Beauty Center, Sephora, SKINS 6|2 Cosmetics, U*tique and Ulta. Participants will receive tips on running a successful retail business such as overviews on signage, merchandising, impulse buying and display placement. In addition to these tips, ideas on staffing, discussions about inventory management, and unique-to-each-venue success stories will be shared. The beauty merchants represent a broad range of retailing environments, each with distinctive models and strategies. Participants will receive handouts from these brick and mortar establishments while in the field. The tour will take place on Saturday, July 30, from 1-5p.m. It will begin and end happi.com
at the Mandalay Bay Hotel. The cost for Professional Beauty Association (PBA) members is $100 and $125 for PBA nonmembers. Lunch will be provided. In addition, there will be a conference designed to discuss key business strategies. Produced in conjunction with the Independent Cosmetics Manufacturers and Distributors Association (ICMAD), this conference will discuss how start-up businesses should organize themselves and how existing businesses interested in getting funding and/or selling equity can prepare themselves for discussions with investors. Prestigious panel members will examine the tough issues revolving around starting, maintaining and/or leaving a successful business. Moderated by ICMAD president Pam Busiek, this session will take place on Monday, Aug. 1 from 11a.m. to 12:30p.m. The panel will be comprised of several muchsought-after representatives from leading investment groups focused on beauty including M. Hadley Mullin, managing partner at TSG Consumer Partners, Stephen Powell of Catterton Partners and Jill Scalamandre, chief marketing officer of Chrysallis Group. The conference tickets are $20 for PBA members and $30 for non-members. After June 30, prices will increase by $10. Cosmoprof North America 2011 will take place July 31-Aug. 2, 2011 at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas. More info: cosmoprofnorthamerica.com
NAD Refers Viss Beauty Ad Claims to FTC and FDA •
The National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Council of Better Business Bureaus has referred advertising claims made by Viss Beauty Inc. to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) and FDA for further review, following the company’s refusal to participate in NAD’s review. NAD, the advertising industry’s selfMay 2011
Industry News
regulatory forum, requested substantiation for claims made in internet advertising and other national media for the VISS Intense Pulsed Light Hair Removal Device. The company acknowledged receipt of NAD’s inquiry, but declined to submit a substantive written response, according to NAD. Pursuant to NAD procedures, the advertising has been referred to the FTC and FDA for further review.
Lubrizol’s Bowling Green Site Wins Ohio State Honor • The Lubrizol Corporation’s Noveon Consumer Specialties Bowling Green, OH facility has been selected to receive the Ohio Chemistry Technology Council’s 2010 Excellence in Environmental, Health, Safety and Security Performance Award. The facility is the manufacturing site for the firm’s surfactants products. According to the Ohio Chemistry Technology Council, the award reflects the company’s “formal commitment to continuous improvement in security, environmental and health and safety performance; that performance during 2010 evidences an effective, vital and sustainable program; that your program has resulted in measurable enhancements to company performance and that your company is committed to working in close collaboration with government officials, industry peers and communities to share success and encourage good relations.”
edgeable professionals will be representing our unique product lines for the personal care industry in Australia and New Zealand,” said Tom Fontana, director of Specialty Products for Arizona Chemical. In other news, Arizona Chemical has entered into an exclusive agreement with Ross Organic to distribute the company’s line of bio-based specialty polymers to the personal care industry in the western U.S. region. Under the agreement, Ross will offer Sylvaclear, Sylbasol and Uniclear specialty polymers. “Ross has an impressive history and talented team, which will be instrumental in helping Arizona Chemical develop our biobased specialty polymers into the important personal care markets in the western U.S.,” said Fontana.
Ineos Oligomers Appoints IMCD Group • Ineos Oligomers has appointed IMCD Group B.V. as its sole distribution partner for the Indopol polybutenes product range in India. INEOS and IMCD have a long partnership in a number of product ranges in Europe, Russia, South Africa and China. “Ineos Oligomers has been a valued and strategic partner to the IMCD Group for many years. We are thrilled about this partnership extension as it further enhances our group knowledge of this exciting product range and follows our strategy for growth in the Asian region,”said Marcus Jordan, IMCD group development director.
Arizona Chemical Signs Deals With Bronson & Jacobs, Ross Organic • Arizona Chemical has entered into an
• Ashland Inc. has rolled out a newly
agreement with Bronson & Jacobs to distribute the company’s line of bio-based specialty polymers to the personal care industry in Australia and New Zealand. Under the agreement, Bronson & Jacobs will offer Sylvaclear, Sylvasol and Uniclear specialty polymers, Arizona Chemical’s patented products that provide a broad range of functionality in personal care and cosmetics applications. “We are pleased that Bronson & Jacobs and their team of experienced and knowl-
designed website at www.ashland.com, including many significant enhancements to make it simpler and more useful for its customers, communities and investors. At its core, the new site features expanded product information with easy access to Ashland’s broad portfolio of specialty chemical products, the company said. The new website makes it easy to conduct business with Ashland around the world. Expansive and readily available information for contacting sellers, customer serv-
May 2011
Ashland Inc. Unveils New Website
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ice agents, chemists, applications specialists and other representatives in more than 100 countries is easily accessed, along with tools for posing questions. From the home page, visitors can find solutions by product name, market, application or product type; contact a representative; learn more about Ashland operations and history or inquire about career opportunities with the company.
BASF’s Trilon M Chelate Earns DfE Certification • BASF’s Care Chemicals Division announced that Trilon M Chelate has been approved by the Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA) Design for the Environment (DfE) certification program. Trilon M is the first product to meet the DfE criteria for chelating and sequestering agents. Chelating agent manufacturers, cleaning product formulators, environmental non-governmental organizations, certification groups, academia and industry associations developed the criteria. Trilon M, methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), effectively binds calcium and magnesium ions and is readily biodegradable. The key advantage of Trilon M is its ability to be used as an eco-friendly builder, replacing phosphates in cleaning compositions, such as automatic dishwashing products, according to BASF. Phosphates were banned from consumer automatic dishwashing detergents in 16 states in 2010. Since being introduced to the market, many global manufacturers of automatic dishwashing tabs, powders and sachets, have already replaced phosphates in their formulations with Trilon M. “Trilon M contributes to our customers’ long term success by offering an innovative solution for a very challenging market need,”said Gary Dee, director, BASF Home and Personal Care Division. Trilon M, which is listed on CleanGredients, can also be included in cleaning products eligible for recognition under the DfE Safer Product Labeling Program. Due to an increasing demand of Trilon M, BASF expanded production in Ludwigshafen, Germany. Recently BASF rolled out Trilon M Granules, Second Generation happi • 135
Industry News
(SG), a new solid version with better handling and processing properties, especially for production of automatic dishwashing (ADW) tabs and powders. Trilon M is available in liquid and several solid forms.
Lauder Companies is very exciting,” said Richard B. Williams, president and CEO of the American Indian College Fund.“We are grateful for the opportunity to work with a company that recognizes the importance and power of obtaining a college degree.”
FiFi 2011 To Honor John Paul Gaultier, IFF Wins Tech Breakthrough
Amy Marks-McGee To Be Honored by WFFC
• Cheers, applause, gasps and laughter
• Amy Marks-McGee has been named
wafted around the grand ballroom of The Mandarin Oriental as The Fragrance Foundation hosted the 2011 FiFi Finalists Breakfast. Monsieur Jean Paul Gaultier will be honored as the 2011 Hall of Fame recipient. The Hall of Fame award is voted on by The Foundation’s board of directors and is presented to an individual who has brought extraordinary ingenuity, creativity, dedication and inner resources to bear, not only to their company’s success but to the fragrance industry as a whole. International Flavors & Fragrances took the Technological Breakthrough of the Year, Packaging and Delivery Systems, for its Redken Radiant Sea Spray. Firmenich’s technology in the osMoz iPhone App took Technological Breakthrough of the Year, Information Technology. Finalists in the fragrance categories were also determined, including Women’s Luxe: Acqua di Gioia, Chance Eau Tendre, Gucci Guilty, pureDKNY and Voyage d’Hermès; Men’s Luxe: Bleu De Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana the one gentleman, Marc Jacobs Bang, The Big Pony Collection:1, 2, 3 & 4 and Voyage d’Hermès.
the 2011 Woman of the Year by the members of WFFC (Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce). Marks-McGee is president and founder of Trendincite LLC, a consulting company that helps clients cull, distill and translate trend information into tangible products. She is an award-winning creative marketing professional with more than 15 years of work experience which includes fine fragrance, air care and personal care marketing for IFF, Noville and Givaudan. Marks-McGee will be honored at the WFFC 2011 Woman of the Year Dinner, which will be held on June 22 at The Chart House in Weehawken, NJ. More info: www.wffc.org
Estée Lauder Establishes Tribal Scholars Program •
The American Indian College Fund has established The Estée Lauder Tribal Scholars Program with an inaugural gift of $11,000 for the 2011-12 academic year. This new program will provide 10 $1,000 scholarships to American Indian students studying marketing, business, environmental science or a related field at the tribal colleges in Minnesota. The additional $1,000 will be utilized by the Fund to administer the program. “Our new partnership with The Estée 136 • happi
Kemin Enters Personal Care Market •
Kemin Industries, a privately held bioscience company based in Des Moines, IA, has entered the personal care market with the launch of a new division, Kemin Personal Care. Utilizing the company’s expertise in plant science, Kemin Personal Care has developed natural, plant-based functional and active ingredients for cosmetics, skin, hair and body care product manufacturers. The unit is led by Kerty Levy, former worldwide VP of Kemin Industries. According to Levy, establishing the new unit was an easy decision considering the rising demand for natural personal care products and Kemin’s expertise in plant science and extraction. With a robust portfolio of natural ingredients used in food and health supplements, the extension into personal care was a logical next step. “For years, Kemin scientists have been extracting plant bioactives from rosemary happi.com
and marigold flowers for use in food and health supplements. These same products, when reformulated, provide a highly effective alternative to the synthetic ingredients used in many personal care products today,” he said. Kemin Personal Care’s functional ingredient line of plant bioactives is formulated specifically to improve the texture, stability, performance and delivery of personal care products. Functional ingredients include Speramox, a natural antioxidant extracted from spearmint leaves, which maintains color stability of both natural and synthetic colors as well as prevents oxidative degradation of fats and oils; Rosamox, a natural antioxidant from a proprietary rosemary extract that prevents oxidative degradation of fats and oils; and LysoFix, a natural emulsifier, extracted from soybeans, that keeps oil and water in emulsion. Kemin Personal Care’s active ingredient line also includes FloraGlo Lutein, a natural antioxidant from marigold extract that is said to help protect and maintain healthylooking skin. More info: www.kemin.com/personalcare
Smart Girl Politics Backs Consumers’ Right To Choose...Soap! • Smart Girl Politics delivered a petition—with 4,265 signatures—to the U.S. EPA to oppose any plans it might have to ban certain types of germ killing hand soaps. The non-profit organization for conservative women activists organized the petition in response to a proposed ban on triclosan. “First President Obama tried to force everyone into a government run healthcare program, and now he is trying to tell us what kinds of soap we have to use,” said Stacy Mott, founder. Mott continued, “Environmental organizations shouldn’t be allowed to dictate to the government or anyone else about what types of soap we can purchase. If we willingly allow the government to control what we can or cannot put in our soap dish, what is next?” • May 2011
Personnel Roundup
HUMBERSTONE NAMED EXECUTIVE VP AT LIPO CHEMICALS • Lipo Chemicals: named Chris Humber-
Humberstone
stone as executive vice president. He will serve as the global business leader for the Lipo Group, reporting to Julian Steinberg, CEO of Vantage Specialty Chemicals. Humberstone has a broad range of technical, marketing and management experience in personal care and related businesses, spanning more than 30 years, including seven years as vice president international with Lipo.
•Tri-K Industries: added three account managers—Christina Pross, Paola Torres and Lucie Venuat—to its global sales team. Torres joins the company as sales account manager for Latin America with 10 years of experience in the chemical industry, most recently with Rocsa Colombia SA. Venuat joins Tri-K as sales account manager for Europe where she will manage the company’s European distribution network. With seven years of sales experience in the cosmetics industry,Venuat comes most recently from Quimibios, S.L. of Spain. Pross joins the company in the newly-created position of sales account manager–Canada. She was previously with Industrial Colours and Chemicals Limited, where she held the position of business line manager, establishing and managing relationships with manufacturers and suppliers.
• Rexam Plastic Packaging’s Personal Care
Nowak
Division: appointed Nathalie Nowak to the position of global marketing and innovation director. In this role, she will lead worldwide initiatives to develop and support the division’s market-facing strategy.
J&J Shuffles Beauty Team • Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products Co. announced several key changes to its executive lineup within its beauty group. Pericles Stamatiades was named company group chairman, global franchise organization. In this new role, Stamatiades is responsible for category strategy across the entire consumer organization; global, regional and local brand footprint; global, regional and local pipeline development and innovation, including research and development; business development strategy; and, market research related to category strategy and innovation. Most recently, he was the company group chairman for beauty. Pericles began his J&J career in 1984. Stefano Curti has been appointed president, global skin care, and May 2011
Most recently, Nowak was global marketing director at Delsey, where she advanced steadily over a 13-year career, ultimately managing teams for this global suitcase manufacturer throughout Europe, the U.S. and Asia.
• AkzoNobel Global Personal Care: hired Shabnam Nejand as technical service engineer. Her responsibilities include providing manufacturing support for all personal care polymers and surfactants at AkzoNobel’s facility in Salisbury, NC, evaluating and approving alternate sources of raw materials, and working with the site’s product development team. Nejand comes to AkzoNobel from Johnson & Johnson in Skillman, NJ, where she Nejand was responsible for qualifying new and revised consumer product formulations while also working on the company’s new Aveeno formulations. Prior to that, she worked for L’Oréal as a project engineer, improving the efficiency of various manufacturing processes at its Piscataway, NJ plant.
• Trilogy Fragrances: hired fragrance industry veterans Mary Ann Pierce, Robert Tioseco and Vince Comerford. Pierce began her fragrance career in 1996 after joining IFF as a sales administrator for the Colgate Palmolive/Mennen Global Personal Care Team assisting with Irish Spring, Palmolive, Softsoap and Mennen/Lady Speedstick. She then began to train and support the perfumers on creative applications. Tioseco started his career at IFF in 1985 as a lab technician/perfumer assistant, where he learned the basics of fragrance ingredients and creations. His knowledge was further enhanced as a quality control supervisor then as a fragrance evaluator with Premier Specialties, Noville Inc. and Firmenich. At Firmenich, he reports to Stamatiades. For the past two years, Curti has served as president, CPC Beauty Care. Roberto Marques has been named company group chairman, North America, a new role. Marques will be responsible for North America, with accountability for regional and country in-market execution across skin care brands, oral care-topical health and women’s healthintimate health. The customer development organization as well as local market research will report to Marques, who joined J&J in 1987. Jeff B. Smith has been appointed president, U.S. skin care, reporting to Marques. Most recently, Smith served as managing director, Canada, for the baby and beauty care divisions within Canada. Smith also managed the entire infrastructure group supporting all the consumer divisions in Canada. He joined the J&J team in 1990.
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Personnel Roundup
became an expert in developing winning fragrances in the specialized home air care segment. Comerford has previously held fragrance and flavor sales management and account management positions with Cosmo International Fragrances, Firmenich/Noville and Roure (Givaudan). He developed supply positions with many companies in the air freshening, personal products and oral care categories.
• Yon-Ka Paris: named Pierre-Yves Lorand as general manager for the U.S. territory. In this executive position, he will oversee all operations for Yon-Ka in the U.S., including sales, marketing, distribution and branding strategy.
• Napoleon Perdis: tapped Lucinda Pitt as vice president of communication and strategy. According to the company, she brings with her more than 15 years of experience as a beauty magazine editor. Most recently, Pitt was the beauty and health director of Grazia Australia and formerly Harper’s Bazaar Australia and Cosmopolitan, all Hearst titles, as well as editor-in-chief of Elle Australia. She has also consulted to media, fashion Pitt and lifestyle brands and for cosmetic companies including Procter & Gamble, Beiersdorf, Revlon, Mecca Cosmetica and Joyce Beauty.
• Unipex Group: tapped Patrice Barthelmes as its president and chief executive officer. Before joining the company, he was president of Eliokem, an international specialty chemicals group. Barthelmes started his career at Air Liquide in 1983 before joining Sanofi and then the SKW Trostsberg Group, where he was in charge of the Flavor and Fruit Systems division. In 1999, he joined the Rohm & Haas/Dow Chemical group, where he occupied several positions, including vice president of the group and president of the European region.
• CPL Aromas USA: appointed Lisa Meola as general manager and Sarah Etzel as account executive. Meola will be responsible for all aspects of the company’s operations in the U.S. According to the company, she has extensive knowledge of the fragrance and flavor industry, having worked in key sales and management positions for a number of organizations. Etzel joins the company from IFF where she has worked for 12 years in various marketing positions, most recently as regional category manager for home care. • 138 • happi
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Private Label/Contract Packaging
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Advertising Index
Advertiser
Page No.
Telephone
Website
ABA Packaging Corp...........................................47 ......................800-443-9799 ................................www.abapackaging.com Acme Hardesty ..................................................58 ......................866-226-3834 ..............................www.acme-hardesty.com Active Organics ..................................................11 ......................800-541-1478................................www.activeorganics.com Ajinomoto............................................................25 ......................201-292-3180 ..........................................www.ajichem.com Akzo Nobel ........................................................91 ......................312-906-7500 ........................www.surface.akzonobel.com Alpha Research ..................................................94 ......................914-761-7141 ........................................www.alpharnd.com AMA Laboratories ..............................................38 ......................845-634-4330..........................................www.amalabs.com Arista Industries, Inc. ........................................95 ....................800-ALL-OILS ............................www.aristaindustries.com BASF ....................................................................96 ......................800-880-5768 ........................www.personal-care.basf.com Bayer Inc. ............................................................35 ......................412-777-2000..............................www.bayercosmetics.com Berjé......................................................................59 ......................973-748-8980 ..........................................www.berjeinc.com BioScreen Testing Services ................................63 ......................800-229-9057 ......................................www.bioscreen.com Brad-Pak Enterprises Inc. ..................................81 ......................908-233-1234 ........................................www.brad-pak.com Carrubba, Inc. ....................................................87 ......................203-878-0605 ........................................www.carrubba.com Cedar Concepts ..................................................48 ......................773-890-5790 ..........................................cedarconcepts.net Celsis Laboratory Group ....................................68......................800-523-LABS ......................................www.celsislabs.com Centerchem, Inc. ............................................Cover 4..................203-822-9800....................................www.centerchem.com Chemsil ..............................................................103 ....................877-700-0302 ..........................................www.chemsil.com Clinical Research Labs........................................27 ......................732-981-1616 ............................................www.crl-inc.com Coast Southwest ................................................18 ......................800-621-0500 ............................www.coastsouthwest.com Consumer Product Testing, Inc. ........................15 ......................973-808-7111 ..........................................www.cptclabs.com Cosmetochem ....................................................39 ..................+41(0)41 748 33 33............................www.cosmetochem.com Covalence ............................................................79 ......................480-897-0551......................................www.CoValence.com Croda Chemicals..................................................7 ..................+44 (0) 1405 860551 ......................www.croda.com/europe/pc Croda Inc. ............................................................23 ......................732-417-0800 ........................................www.crodausa.com DeWolf Chemical ..............................................115 ....................800-521-0065 ..................................www.dewolfchem.com Dr. Straetmans....................................................119 ..............+49 (0)40 - 669 356-0 ............................www.dr-straetmans.de Drom ....................................................................43 ....................+49 89 744 25-0 ............................................www.drom.com DSM Nutritional Products, Inc. ........................75 ......................800-526-0189..........www.unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com EMD Chemicals Inc. (Rona-Cosmetic Business Unit) ............................................................................101 ....................800-222-0342 ..............................www.emdchemicals.com Extract & Ingredients/Morre-Tec Ind. ..............114 ....................908-688-9009 ........................................www.morretec.com Gattefossé Corporation ......................................20 ......................201-358-1700 ......................................www.gattefosse.com Glenn Corp./DeWolf..........................................117 ....................651-221-2406 ......................................www.glenncorp.com Grant Industries, Inc. ..........................................3 ......................201-791-8700..........................................www.grantinc.com HallStar ..............................................................111 ....................908-852-6128 ..........................................www.hallstar.com HBA Global Expo ..........................................Cover 3..................212-600-3033 ........................................www.hbaexpo.com Independent Chemical Corporation ................118 ....................718-894-0700 ..................www.independentchemical.com Innospec ..............................................................45 ......................732-321-3500 ..................................www.innospecinc.com Inolex Chemical Company ................................21 ......................215-271-0800 ............................................www.inolex.com Interpolymer........................................................26 ......................800-262-1281..................................www.interpolymer.com 144 • happi
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Advertising Index
Advertiser
Page No.
Telephone
Website
InVitro International ..........................................51 ......................800-246-8487 ......................................www.invitrointl.com Jeen International................................................19......................800-771-JEEN ................................................www.jeen.com Jungbunzlauer ....................................................13 ......................617-969-0900 ..............................www.jungbunzlauer.com Kewpie Corporation ..........................................29 ..................+81-3-3486-3338......................www.kewpie.co.jp/english/fc Laboratoires Prod’Hyg ......................................65 ................++33(0)1 30 46 89 89 ..................................www.prodhyg.com Laboratoires Serobiologiques/Cognis ..............33 ..................(33) 3 83 29 97 92 ....www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com Lincoln Fine Ingredients ..................................118 ....................401-722-2410 ..................www.lincolnfineingredients.com Lipo Chemicals ................................................92, 93 ..................973-345-8600 ................................www.lipochemicals.com Lonza Inc. ............................................................88 ......................201-316-9200 ..............................................www.lonza.com McKernan Packaging Clearing House ............138 ....................800-561-0236 ......................................www.mckernan.com Mibelle AG Biochemistry....................................31 ................+41 (0) 62 836 13 45................www.mibellebiochemistry.com Micro Powders, Inc. ............................................49 ......................914-793-4058 ..........................www.mpipersonalcare.com Multiceras ............................................................71 ......................973-536-0547 ......................................www.multiceras.com Natural Plant Products ......................................73 ......................503-363-6402 ................................www.meadowfoam.com Nexeo Solutions, LLC (formerly Ashland) ......41 ......................800-531-7106 ..............................www.nexeosolutions.com Noveon Consumer Specialties............................9 ......................800-379-5389 ....................www.personalcare.noveon.com Novozymes North America, Inc. ......................53 ......................919-494-3000..................www.novozymes.com/detergent. Rahn USA Corp...................................................67 ......................630-851-4220 ....................................www.rahn-group.com Rhodia ..................................................................5 ......................800-922-2189............................www.rhodia-novecare.com RITA Corporation ..........................................Cover 2..................800-426-7759 ..........................................www.ritacorp.com Robertet................................................................57 ......................201-405-1000 ..........................................www.robertet.com Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH ..............113 ..................+49 66 61 96 76-0 ............................www.ROVIcosmetics.de Ruger Chemical Co., Inc.....................................36 ......................800-274-7843 ..............................www.rugerchemical.com Sabinsa ................................................................109 ....................732-777-1111 ..........................www.sabinsacosmetics.com Salvona Technologies Inc. ..................................85 ......................609-655-0173 ..........................................www.salvona.com Schulke & Mayr ..................................................37 ......................888-267-4220 ........................................www.schuelke.com Sederma/Croda ..................................................99 ......................732-692-1652..............................................www.sederma.fr Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc. ................105 ....................330-630-9860 ..........................www.shinetsusilicones.com Silab ....................................................................107 ................(33) 05 55 84 58 40 ................................................www.silab.fr Solabia Group......................................................85 ..................+33 1 48 10 19 40 ............................................www.solabia.fr Solar Light Co. ..................................................133 ....................215-517-8700........................................www.solarlight.com Spectra Colors Corp. ..........................................64 ......................800-527-8588................................www.SpectraColors.com Tri-K Industries, Inc. ..........................................61 ......................201-750-1055 ................................................www.tri-k.com U.S. Cosmetics ....................................................77 ......................800-752-0490 ..........................................www.uscosm.com Universal Preserv-A-Chem, Inc. ......................84 ......................732-568-1266 ........................................www.upichem.com Verla International ..............................................83 ......................845-561-2440 ........................www.verlainternational.com Vivimed Labs Limited ........................................46 ..................+91-40-27176005 ................................www.vivimedlabs.com Wacker Chemical Corporation ..........................55 ......................888-922-5374..............www.wacker.com/knows-solutions Welch, Holme & Clark Co., Inc. ........................86 ......................973-465-1200 ......................www.welch-holme-clark.com Xiameter/Dow Corning ......................................17........................................................................................www.xiameter.com Youngbio Cemical Co., ITD................................58 ........0086-577-63198788/63198182 ................www.youngbiochem.com May 2011
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Photo News
JAFRA REWARDS A MOM WITH DRIVE
Julie Chen and Holly Robinson Peete with Jafra USA president Connie Tang and entrepreneur Denise Portillo and her daughter.
• To celebrate women who have accelerated their personal and professional success despite challenges, Connie Tang, the president of the U.S. division of Jafra Cosmetics International Inc., appeared on CBS’ “The Talk” and surprised one deserving “mompreneur” with a brand-new Mercedes Benz GLK350. The prize was part of a Feb. 25 segment highlighting self-
employed mothers across the country, according to the company. Jafra gave the car to Denise Portillo, a Los Angeles-based chef and caterer. Despite multiple setbacks and hardships, Portillo has shown determination to accelerate her success and realize her personal potential “in a manner which mirrors Jafra’s Mission,” according to Jafra.
Plackers Hobnobs in Hollywood • Hollywood loves a pearly white smile at any age, so it was only fitting that Plackers flossers, Brush-N-Learn musical toothbrushes and Grind-No-More Dental Night Protectors hung with celebrities at the Kari Feinstein Oscar’s Style Lounge at the Beverly Hills Montague Hotel on Feb. 24-25. Actors including Jennifer Love Hewitt and Nolan Gould as well as writers, producers, celebrity stylists and entertainment media were on hand to try out the oral care products and take home gift bags.
Jennifer Love Hewitt stops by Plackers at the Kari Feinstein Oscar’s Style Lounge.
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