HAPPI December 2011

Looking for a Mild Surfactant Package? Don’t compromise mildness for foam, have it both ways with RITAFACTANTS RITA’s p...

Author: Tom Branna

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Looking for a Mild Surfactant Package? Don’t compromise mildness for foam, have it both ways with RITAFACTANTS RITA’s patented use of Acyl Lactylate Surfactant Blends.

L

ATURAL & EC

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surfactant packages.

DES AVAILAB

cost-effective

T APPROVED G RA

foaming, stable and

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E

Exceptionally mild, high

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For more information please visit us at ritacorp.com

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125 Main Ave. Elmwood Park, NJ 07407

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[email protected]

December 2011 Volume 48, No. 12 www.happi.com

71

FEATURES 57

Searching for Answers The household cleaning sector remains in the doldrums as consumers opt for low-priced options and marketers try to combat both rising raw material costs and retail price wars.

63

Finding the Green Being green isn’t so black and white these days. But figuring out how to incorporate its principles will benefit your company in the long run.

Cover Story

71

35

Crowning Glory Consumers want high-quality shampoos and conditioners to smooth and strengthen hair from the inside out. A list of the latest hair care ingredients from industry suppliers begins on p. 82.

89

COLUMNS Gleams & Notions Find out what’s so special about Amphosol CBD Special

38

Euro Trends Oral care marketers keep smiling in Europe

Fully Loaded Active ingredients are a must in today’s anti-aging skin care products.

42

Notes from China Baby care, a recession-proof

97

A Helping Hand For Sun Care

category in China

44

Advanced sun care products must include supportive sun-protection strategies. Cosmetic actives offer attractive multifunctional benefits, such as enhanced functionality and opportunities for new claims and competitive differentiation. A Rahn researcher highlights some actives that lend themselves to sun care products.

101 A Meeting of the Minds The Personal Care Product Council’s Science Symposium featured the latest news on microbiology, quality assurance, safety and environmental issues.

103 Annual Editorial Index A list of the major features, plus columnists and contributing authors.

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News from Latin America Bel Col Cosmeticos enters Brazil

46

Human Capital Management Optimize your virtual world

48

Anti-Aging & Cosmeceutical Corner The truth about telomeres

Cover design: Laura Caramagna Photo courtesy: Redken

December 2011

Hair Care at BASF Comprehensive product portfolio Leading competence in styling applications Differentiated claim support to address market needs BASF SE 67056 Ludwigshafen, Germany www.personal-care.basf.com Tel. + 800 2273 4444

DEPARTMENTS 8

Editor’s Page

28

A way to gauge industry health?

10

Index to Companies

Coty Prestige plays “truth or dare”with Madonna

36

A quick guide to the companies referenced in this issue of HAPPI

12

News Front

Formulary

108

Patents

110

International Oriflame names first charity ambassador

112

Financial News

New Products Scrubbing Bubbles steps up toilet cleaning

112

Sun Products patents detergent

22

Regulations

P&G reports 9% gain in Q1

Sulfate-free 2 in 1 shampoo

20

Packaging News

120

114

Supplier’s Corner

130

SCC annual meeting is Dec. 8-9 in New York

ADVERTISING SECTIONS

SCC News

123

Contract Packaging/ Private Label

126

Professional Directory

Personnel Roundup

126

Classified Ads

Lipo Chemicals appoints Clements VP-global marketing

128

Advertising Index

Meetings

SCS Residential Course is March 11-16, 2012

118

Photo News Scope Dual Blast hits festivals, links with Sunny Anderson

Chione HD pigments by BASF provide bright, clean color

116

Industry News L’Oréal USA to acquire device maker Clarisonic

Rexam’s latest innovation has panache

117

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28

New supplier assessment program

Economy impacts $9 billion natural/organic beauty business

16

Marketing News

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December 2011

A WAY TO GAUGE INDUSTRY HEALTH?

W

WESTERN EUROPE remains mired in a debt crisis that threatens to plunge the region into recession, analysts insist that the US economy will continue to slog its way through tepid growth in 2012. That may be good enough for most industries, but not when it comes to cosmetics. In contrast, the beauty industry, for the most part, appears to be on a roll. Results for Q3 are all in, and nearly every major player—from Procter & Gamble to Estée Lauder to L’Oréal—reported better than expected gains for the period. When times are tough, pundits like to point to the Lipstick Index, Leonard Lauder’s term to measure the resiliency of the beauty industry in an economic downturn. But new data from The NPD Group suggests that it might be time to measure the industry’s health in a new way. That’s because, despite 9% unemployment, rising energy costs, a plunging housing market and generally gloomy consumer confidence rating, the often-beleaguered fine fragrance industry managed to post a 10% sales gain for the first 10 months of 2011. According to NPD, sales for the period topped $1.7 billion and unit sales rose 6% to nearly 30 million. At a time when many consumers remain guarded, they’re apparently opening their purses at fragrance counters. Maybe it’s time for some sort of spritz index to measure this dichotomy? Fine fragrance sales may be making a comeback, yet consumer interest in actives has never wavered. As Christine Esposito notes in Fully Loaded (p. 89), demand for effective anti-aging products has kept marketers and suppliers searching for the latest peptides, fruit acids and the like. It may not be posting double-digit gains, but the multi-billion dollar shampoo and conditioner market appears pretty healthy these days, too. In her article, which begins on p. 71, Melissa Meisel notes that mass market sales of these hair care products now top $2.4 billion in the US and are growing at a rate of 3% a year. Unfortunately, gains aren’t apparent in the household cleaner segment (See Searching for Answers, p. 57). Industry observers insist that the category won’t resume a growth pattern until marketers roll out truly innovative products. We hope you enjoy this edition of HAPPI. As always, we welcome your comments and suggestions. Good luck in the NewYear. HILE

Tom Branna Editorial Director [email protected]

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happi.com

V.P./EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Tom Branna, [email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITORS: Melissa Meisel, [email protected], Christine Esposito, [email protected] COLUMNISTS: Ally Dai, Harvey Fishman, Navin Geria, Katie Middleweek, Sueli Ortega, Patrick Ropella CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Nancy Jeffries

RODMAN PUBLISHING PRESIDENT: Rodman J. Zilenziger, Jr., [email protected] EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT: Matthew J. Montgomery, [email protected] PUBLISHER: Art Largar, [email protected] ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Beth Russo, [email protected] EUROPEAN SALES: Baudry Boisseau Associates Tel: 32-2-513-06-47 • Fax: 32-2-514-17-38 Email: [email protected] ADVERTISING SALES (Hong Kong, Taiwan & China): Michael R. Hay, Ringier Trade Publishing Ltd. Hong Kong (852) 2369 8788 • Fax: (852) 2869 5919 E-mail: [email protected] PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Sharon Messner, [email protected] ART & TECHNICAL MANAGER: Michael Del Purgatorio, [email protected] ONLINE DIRECTOR: Paul Simansky, [email protected] WEB MANAGER: Jason Lawton, [email protected] AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT MANAGER: Joe DiMaulo, [email protected] CIRCULATION MANAGER: Richard DeVoto, [email protected] To renew/subscribe/update subscription information, please visit www.happi.com. Or contact: [email protected] Tel: (201) 825-2552 ext. 374 Fax: (201) 825-6582.

A Rodman Publication 70 Hilltop Road Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA Tel: (201) 825-2552 Fax: (201) 825-0553 Website: www.Happi.com happi—Household and Personal Products Industry (ISSN 0090-8878) is published monthly on the 10th by Rodman Publishing Corp., 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA. Phone: (201) 825-2552. Fax: (201) 825-0553. Periodical postage paid at Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Agreement No 40028970: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Dept., PO Box 1051, Fort Erie, On L2A 6C7. Circulation Dept.: circulation @rodpub.com. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Happi, 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey NJ 07446 USA. Free subscriptions to Happi are available to qualified individuals. Others are as follows: U.S. one year $85; two years $115. Outside U.S. and overseas: one year $105 (U.S.), two years $150 (U.S.). Single issue: $12 (except for February, July and October, $15). 5% GST required on Canadian orders. GST#134451756. Foreign Airmail: one year $195 (U.S.). Make checks payable in U.S. dollars through a U.S. bank. American Express also accepted. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Missing Issues: Claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of the issue. PRINTED in USA. Happi’s circulation is audited by BPA International. Authorization to photocopy items in Happi for internal or personal use, or internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Rodman Publishing, provided a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 USA.

December 2011

Expresss you Express yourr cre creativity eativity w with ith Rh Rheomer eom mer® 33 Design Desi ign formulations with innovative textures t and nicee sensations Rheom Rheomer® mer® 33 is an innovative rheological rheoological agent for diversee personal cleansing formulations. formulatioons. A formulator's delight, the delight t, Rheomer®33 facilitates th he suspension of systems beads and a particles in low-medium low-medium surfactant s while exhibiting ultra clarity, e ultra high clarity y, high h richness and fooam properties in final applications. applicattions. good foam

Be enefits Benefits Z High thickening efficiency in bboth oth sulfate-based systems and sulfate-free surfactant sys stems Z High clarity even in the presen presence nce off salt Z Good suspension properties Z Easy Easy-to-use -to-use as it is supplied inn liquid form Z Enhanced flash-foam & foam volume v Z Enriched E i h d senses andd pleasant l t feel f l Possible Poossible Personal Cleansing Applications Ap pplications Z Crystal clearr body washes withh suspended beads Z Oil Oil-rich -rich moisturizing showerr creams crreams Z Facial scrubs with beads Z Mild showerr gels

North A North America merica Phone: P hone: + +1-888-776-7337 1-888-776-7337 +1-609-860-4000 + 1-609-860-4000 Fax: F ax: + +1-609-860-0463 1-609-860-0463 [email protected] N [email protected] Europe Europe Phone: P hone: + +33 33 ((0)1 0)1 53 53 5 56 6 50 50 0 00 0 Fax: F ax: + +33 33 ((0)1 0)1 5 53 3 56 56 5 53 39 90 0 [email protected] [email protected] Asia P Asia Pacific acific Phone: P hone: + +65 65 - 6 6291 291 1 1921 921 Fax: F ax: + +65 65 - 6 6394 394 3 3376 376 Latin A Latin America merica Phone: P hone: + +55 55 1 11 1 3747-7886 3747-7886 Fax: F ax: + +55 55 1 11 13 3741-1032 741-1032 w www.rhodia.com ww.rhodia.com

Index to Companies

• This index gives the starting page for a department or feature with a significant reference to a brand, finished product company, agency, research firm, retailer or trade association. Subsidiaries are indexed under their own names.

Algenist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Allergan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Altera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Avalon Organics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 Aveda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101 Aveeno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Avon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28, 44, 89, 108, 118 Axe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Baby Magic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Beiersdorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118 Bel Col . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Benchmarking Company . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Church & Dwight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Cibu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Clairol Professional . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Clarisonic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Clinique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Clorox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 CND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Colgate-Palmolive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63, 108 Coty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28, 101 Crest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 David Evangelista . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

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Decleor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Dermalogica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Dove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Dr. Brandt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Elizabeth Arden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Energizer Holdings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118 EnvyDerm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Eos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Estée Lauder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8, 108, 120 Euromonitor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42, 57, 71 Evolution Robotics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Garnier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 Got2b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 GSK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Head & Shoulders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Helix Beauty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Henkel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38, 57, 63 HydroPeptide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Hypermarcas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 It Factor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Ivory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Jafra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Jan Marini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 John Frieda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Johnson & Johnson . . . . . . . . . .20, 42, 44, 101 Joico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Kao Brands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101, 120 Kappersservice Floral B.V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Kimberly-Clark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Kiss My Face . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118 Kline & Company . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89

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L’Occitane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 L’Oréal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28, 71, 120 Laboratories Lacer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Laura Geller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Living Proof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71, 118 Lumene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Lush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 M.A.C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Malibu C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Matrix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Mintel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Murad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Natura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Natural Products Association . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Nike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 Nioxin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 NPD Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 NSF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 Nu Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Nuance Salma Hayek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 OgilvyEarth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 Ole Henriksen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Organic Monitor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 Organix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Oriflame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Ouidad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Pacific Sands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118 Pacific World . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Pantene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Pert . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Peter Thomas Roth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Philip Kingsley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Pierre Fabre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Pravana Naturceuticals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Procter & Gamble . .8, 28, 42, 44, 57, 63, 71, 108, 130 Reckitt Benckiser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28, 57 Redken . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Romane Fragrances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Rusk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Sally Beauty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 SC Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57, 63 Scope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Scrubbing Bubble . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Shelton Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 SkincareSolutionsByAndrea . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Soap.com . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Solazyme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Stiefel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Stila . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Suave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Sun Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Supergoop! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Swiffer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 SymphonyIRI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38, 57, 71 TePe Oral Hygiene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Tide Dry Cleaners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Tigi Catwalk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Tocca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Unilever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63, 120 Unipro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Vichy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 W.E. Bassett . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Walgreens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Wen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Whole Foods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 Windex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Zotos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63

December 2011

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With their proven expertise, our diverse, talented people do the job with maximal efficiency. The average employee has worked at Access for over 14 years producing OTC-quality powders, liquids, aerosols, lotions and creams. In fact, at Access our skills are of such a high level, we attract more and more demanding customers. Let us match our skills to your needs. Visit www.accessbusinessgroup.com. Or call 800-879-2732 to arrange a tour of our facilities.

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All you need is Access.

News Front

ECONOMY IMPACTS $9 BILLION NATURAL/ORGANIC BEAUTY BUSINESS Large cosmetic companies are entering the naturals arena. Some, like L’Oréal and Colgate-Palmolive, have taken the acquisition route, while others have developed natural/organic lines. Recent newcomers, such as Garnier, Henkel and Amore Pacific, are launching certified organic products, according to Organic Monitor. More info: www.organicmonitor.com

150 Million Spa Visits in 2010 • The International Spa Association’s Sales of natural and organic beauty products will hit $14 billion in 2015, according to Organic Monitor.

• Global sales of natural and organic beauty products are projected to hit the $9 billion mark this year, and although consumer demand remains buoyant, new research finds the growth rate is slowing because of the weak economy. In its upcoming report, “Global Market for Natural & Organic Personal Care Products,” Organic Monitor predicts revenues will climb to $14 billion in 2015. Demand for natural and organic products has spread to every region, however sales remain concentrated in Europe and North America, noted the company. Natural and organic products have a 2% share of global personal care product sales.

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In some countries—such as the US, Germany and Austria—the market share is reaching 10%.The large market share is due to high consumer awareness and extensive distribution of natural and organic products. Wider availability is a major driver of market growth, says Organic Monitor. Natural and organic personal care products are crossing over from specialists to mainstream channels. Premium brands, such as Dr. Hauschka and Ren, are targeting highend retailers. Other brands are entering pharmacies, drugstores, supermarkets and department stores. Companies like ADA Cosmetics and Panpuri are developing natural lines for hotels and the spa channel.

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newly released US Spa Industry Study reveals an increase in spa visits, revenue and the total number of employees to indicate that the spa industry is recovering from the impact of the recession. Compared to the results from the association’s last industry study, the data shows that the spa industry is growing at a moderate pace as the recovery from the economic recession begins to move forward, according to ISPA, a professional organization representing health and wellness facilities and providers in more than 70 countries. In 2010, spas received 150 million client visits. While massage remains the No. 1 treatment received by spa-goers, skin care services are more readily available at spa locations. The study shows that skin care services were the most common type of service, with 94% percent of spas

December 2011

News Front

What's new on the cosmetic ingredient market?

offering them. Following skin care, massage services were widely offered by 88% of spa facilities, body services (80%), salon services (66%) and complimentary or alternative therapies (30%) rounding out the top five service offerings. The four main treatment revenue categories in the spa industry account for 79% of total spa revenue and include: massage and bodywork, skin care treatments, hair and nails. There were an average of 8,704 treatments and services per spa provided within the four categories. Retail accounts for 11% of total spa revenues with skin care products accounting for a majority of spending by spagoers, ISPA said.

Teen Beauty Spending Up Year-over-Year •Results of Piper Jaffray’s 22nd semi-annual “Taking Stock with Teens” survey indicate improving spending at the upperincome level and continued weakness for average-income teens. Also, the survey results reflect a preference by teens for value-priced merchandise at all levels of household income, but not necessarily the lowest cost, as teens report a willingness to spend on higher-priced, differentiated merchandise. Beauty spending among upper-income teens increased 6% year-over-year, but down 2% sequentially from the spring of 2011, according to Piper Jaffray. Specifically, skin care and cosmetics represented a bigger share of overall beauty spending. According to the survey, MAC is the No. 1 cosmetics brand for upper-income teens, but the brand fell to No. 3 among averageincome teens (compared to No. 2 in the spring and the same as the fall of 2010). Victoria’s Secret remains the preferred fragrance, consistent with the past seven surveys. The combined share of the top 10 cosmetics brands continues to decline, favoring multi-brand Who You Are, Hand Washing and Wellness According data from the international Lysol HABIT (Hygiene: Attitudes, Behavior, Insight and Traits) study, released by the Global Hygiene Council, certain personality traits, good manners and occupational status appear to have a beneficial effect on personal and household hygiene practices, as well as overall wellness. According to the study, 54% of people surveyed globally reported good personal hygiene. Researchers uncovered several novel findings that influenced hygiene scores, including conscientious or nervous personality types reported experiencing 10% fewer colds than others, and those with good manners, such as covering their mouths when sneezing, were almost two-and-a-half times more likely to have good health. According to the study, hygiene habits varied by profession, with homemakers reporting the highest level of personal hygiene (64.5%). Students reported the worst (44.5%). More info: www.hygienecouncil.com

December 2011

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Biotech innovations with a touch of nature VITIPURE TM, VELSAN ® and ZENVIVO TM – a unique range of biopolymers for personal care to fulfill consumers desire for purity and effectiveness. These natural personal care ingredients originate from vegetal sources and contribute to consumers well-being and well-feeling. Moisturizing, protecting and repairing effects are combined with an extraordinary gentle feel for skin and hair. www.personalcare.clariant.com

What do you need?

happi • 13

News Front

SymphonyIRI Unwraps All the Details On Holiday Shopping 2011 • The holidays are here and all eyes are on the retail sector. According to results from Symphony-IRI Group’s Holiday Shopping 2011 survey, 82% of respondents indicate that increased concern about the economy is negatively impacting holiday budgets. About half of consumers plan to spend similarly to last year when it comes to gift budgets. On average, 26% of consumers plan to reduce gift-buying budgets this year. Among households earning less than $35,000 and $35,000 – $55,000 annually, though, 38% and 31%, respectively, are reducing spending, the Chicago-based market research company said. For nearly three-quarters of respondents, gift-giving budgets will top out at $800 this year, according to SymphonyIRI. More info: www.SymphonyIRI.com

specialty retailers such as Ulta and Sephora. “Our Fall 2011 survey provides further evidence of a bifurcated recovery: upper-income teens are feeling more confident and willing to spend on fashion, while averageincome teens continue to rationalize budgets,” said Jeff Klinefelter, director of research and senior research analyst at Piper Jaffray.“With macroeconomic uncertainty likely to continue to weigh on consumer spending, we believe fashion and overall product ‘newness’ can drive sales growth for select retailers and brands.” More info: www.piperjaffray.com

14 • happi

ABCs, But No Time To Hand Wash? • An overwhelming number of students (89%) aged 8-17 say they always wash their hands after going to the bathroom at school. But time constraints, a lack of cleanliness and a shortage of supplies are among the major barriers to students washing their hands at school more often, according to findings from an online survey of children and parents of children within that age group. The survey was conducted by Russell Research for the American Cleaning In-

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stitute (ACI) in order to generate insights into handwashing beliefs and behaviors in school and at home. The study was conducted in support of Global Handwashing Day, which was Oct. 15, 2011. According to the data, the No. 1 reason why kids don’t wash their hands as much as they should in school is that they don’t have the time (43%). Fifty-one percent of kids report that their teachers do not set aside time to wash hands before eating, while 63% of parents said that their child’s teachers sets aside time for them to wash their hands before eating. Other reasons cited by students for infrequent handwashing are the lack of cleaning supplies (19%), not liking to use school bathrooms (21%), and bathrooms being“disgusting”(15%). Only 63% of kids say their school always has all the soap, water, paper towels and drying equipment needed to wash their hands. Forty-seven percent say sometimes they don’t use the bathroom because it isn’t clean. Further down the list of reasons why students in school don’t wash their hands as much as they should are“not being reminded to” (16%) and that “no one else does it”(14%). However, 77% of kids say watching their friends wash their hands

December 2011

News Front

at school makes them remember to wash theirs. While the research shows that most parents and teachers have discussed the importance of handwashing with children, implications are that frequent reminders and continued reinforcement with educational programs and campaigns are needed in order to make the lesson stick. The news for parents isn’t all bad. Eighty-nine percent of students surveyed say they always wash their hands after using the toilet—yet the learning curve drops off from there. Only 65% of students always wash their hands before they eat lunch, 74% always after touching garbage, 53% always after blowing their nose, coughing or sneezing, and 60% always after gym class. Interestingly, according to the study, nearly all parents and children (97%)

Are kids washing up while they are in school?

agree that handwashing is one of the most important things they can do to keep from getting sick. Their behavior, however, both in and out of school doesn’t always hold water.

The research also demonstrated that school is not the only place where handwashing habits need a tutorial. At home, only 66% of parents say they have taught their children how long they should spend washing their hands, with a full 25% of parents admitting never sharing the information. Thirty-three percent of parents admit there are times when they themselves use the restroom without washing their hands, and 20% of children have witnessed their parents not wash their hands after using the restroom. Some statistics give parents a hall pass, however. Seventy-nine percent of parents always make their children wash their hands before meals at home, and 72% say they are always reminding their children to wash their hands. And 58% of parents have donated hand hygiene products such as hand sanitizers to their child’s school. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org •

SHARED VALUES – SHARED SUCCESS Brenntag Personal Care North America shares your desire to sensitively develop innovative products and solutions. We provide our customers with global access to a comprehensive range of ingredients and worldclass manufacturers through the largest specialty ingredient distribution network in the world. Anticipating the products for tomorrow Our applications lab is continually incorporating new ingredients into formulas relevant to today’s market trends.

December 2011

Innovating solutions Our technical experts both in the field and in the lab optimize your formulations based on an extensive product portfolio and technical training. Collaborating with customers We understand the challenges and needs of our customers. Our market experienced sales team transforms visions into realities and converts costconsciousness into high performance. Taking a step ahead From multiple locations across North America, Brenntag’s Personal Care

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team offers LTL shipments, sampling capabilities, local customer service and warehousing, exceeding our customers’ needs every day. Do you share our values? Let us show you how to share success. Please contact us to learn how.

Brenntag North America 5083 Pottsville Pike Reading, PA 19605 Phone 610 926 6100 x 3858 [email protected] www.brenntagnorthamerica.com

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Formulary

SULFATE-FREE 2 IN 1 SHAMPOO FROM RHODIA Rhodia Tel: 888-776-7337 or 215-781-6364 (tech service) Email: [email protected] Website: www.rhodia.com INGREDIENTS WT.% Phase A Water q.s. to 100 Mackernium 007N (Rhodia) (Polyquaternium-7) 4.0 Mackalene 426 (Rhodia) (Isostearamidopropyl 6.0 morpholine lactate) AGS-1214 (P&G Chemicals) (Sodium alkyl 12.0 C10-16 glyceryl sulfonate) Mackamide CPA (Rhodia) (Cocamide MIPA) 4.0 Mackester EGDS (Rhodia) (Glycol distearate) 1.5 Mackanate EL (Rhodia) (Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate) 20.0 Citric acid q.s. Sodium chloride q.s. Phenagon PDI (Rhodia) (Phenoxyethanol, DMDM 0.6 hydantoin, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate) Fragrance, dye q.s. Na4EDTA 0.2 PROCEDURE: Charge water. Disperse Mackernium 007N. Mix well. While heating to 70°C, add the next four components. Blend until Mackester EGDS and Mackamide CPA are melted and dispersed. Cool to 50°C. Add Mackanate EL, Phenagon PDI, EDTA, fragrance and dye. Adjust pH with citric acid. Adjust viscosity with sodium chloride. PROPERTIES: Appearance—Pearled, viscous liquid; Brookfield Viscosity at 25°C—5,000-10,000cps (LVT, spindle 3, 12rpm); pH @ 25°C—5.0 to 7.0; Solids, %—20-25%; Storage-Stability—Stable for 1 month (25°C; 45°C ; 4°C) 3 Cycles Freeze/Thaw.

Phase B Sweet almond oil (Prunus amygdalus dulis (sweet almond) oil) Hazelnut oil (Coryllus avellana (hazel) seed oil)) Castor Oil Refined (Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil)) Tocomix L70-IP (Jan Dekker) (Tocopherol, helianthus annuus seed oil) Phase C Fragrance

5.00 5.00 42.00 0.20

0.30

PROCEDURE: Heat phase A to 80-85°C while stirring. Heat phase B to 70°C while stirring Add phase B to A dropwise while stirring. Cool to 65°C. When uniform, add phase C fragrance under agitation. Pour into the packaging. PROPERTIES: Stable at RT (25°C) and 40°C for 1 month.

Jelly Lip Gloss Submitted on Evonik-Goldschmidt’s behalf by Glenn Corporation, a member of The DeWolf Companies 888-453-6267 • Fax: 651-221-2406 Email: [email protected] • www.glenncorp.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Rewopal PIB 1000 (Evonik) (Polyisobutene) Tegosoft CL (Evonik) (Cetearyl isononanoate) Preservative Aerosil R 812 (Evonik) (Silica silylate)

WT.% 60.00 34.90 q.s. 5.00

Product formulas are supplied by producers of raw materials. Included in some instances are sources of supply for the raw materials and instruc-

Gelled Shower Oil

tions for preparation and use of the finished product. No guarantee of per-

Arizona Chemical 912-238-6556 (tech service) • 800-526-5294 (sales) Website: www.arizonachemical.com

formance or safety is implied by HAPPI. For more complete details, readers should contact the suppliers directly using the telephone number or website provided with each formula. If your company has a formula that you

INGREDIENTS WT.% Phase A Sylvaclear A2614V (Arizona Chemical) (Ethylenediamine/ 3.00 hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer bis-di-C14-18 alkyl amide) Drakeol 7 (Penreco) (Mineral oil) 24.50 Nikkol BL-4.2 (Nikko Chemical) (Laureth-4) 20.00 16 • happi

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think would be of interest to readers of HAPPI, marketers of soaps and detergents; cosmetics and toiletries; fragrances; waxes and polishes; disinfectants and sanitizers and other chemical specialties, we will be pleased to consider it for publication. Address all material to: Formulary Editor, HAPPI, 70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA; Email: [email protected].

December 2011

Healthy Hair

Dynamics

KeraDyn HH TM

You can tell hair is healthy by the way it moves, so breathe new life into damaged hair with KeraDyn HH. Designed to increase the movement of damaged hair, KeraDyn HH is a patented conditioning agent which enhances fibre alignment and reduces friction between hair strands for the freedom of movement that only healthy hair enjoys.

Europe, Middle East & Africa email:[email protected] www.croda.com/europe/pc North America email:[email protected] www.croda.com/na/pc Latin America email:[email protected] www.croda.com/la/pc Asia Pacific email:[email protected] www.croda.com/asia

Innovation you can build on

TM

Restores healthy hair dynamics to damaged hair I Reduces inter-fibre friction and enhances fibre alignment I Patented, non-quaternised conditioning agent I Compatible with commonly used quats I Cold processable I Suitable for clear systems I

Formulary

Colorona Glitter Sienna (Rona Cosmetics) (Mica & red iron oxide)

0.10

PROCEDURE: Combine Rewopal PIB 1000 and Tegosoft CI. Heat to 70°C while stirring. Add preservative and stir for 10 minutes. Add Aerosil R 812 while homogenizing or stirring with a dissolver. Add Colorona Glitter Sienna while homogenizing or stirring with a dissolver. Homogenize (or stir with a dissolver) until complete dispersion is obtained. Homogenize or stir for another 5-10 minutes if necessary.

Hair Mask for Dry Hair BASF Tel: 973-245-6398 Email: [email protected] • Website: www.basf.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Cosmedia Triple C (BASF) (Polyquaternium-37 (and) 1.0 dicaprylyl carbonate (and) lauryl glucoside) Dehyquart F 75 (BASF) (Distearoylethyl 1.0 hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol) Cutina HVG (BASF) (Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides) 2.5 Lanette O (BASF) (Cetearyl alcohol) 2.0 Cetiol CC (BASF) (Dicaprylyl carbonate) 0.5 Phase B Water, demin. 90.0 Phase C Lactolan LS 5879 (BASF) (Hydrolyzed milk protein) 2.0 Copherol 1250 C (BASF) (Tocopheryl acetate) 0.5 D-Panthenol USP 0.5 Perfume, preservative q.s. PROCEDURE: Heat phase A up to 80-85°C and mix homogeneously. Heat phase B up to 80-85°C and add to the oil part while stirring. Add the components of phase C at 40°C. Stir while cooling down to 30°C. PROPERTIES: pH value (as is)— 4.2; Viscosity (Brookfield RVF, 23°C, spindle TC, 4 rpm, Helipath)—55,000 mPa•s

Cold Process Leave-in Conditioner Coast Southwest, Inc. 800-621-5055 • Fax: 714-524-8363 Email: [email protected] Website: www.coastsouthwest.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Water Sharomix DMP (Coast Southwest) (Sharon 18 • happi

WT. % q.s. to 100% 1.0

Laboratories, Ltd.) (Diazolidinyl urea, methylparaben, propylparaben and propylene glycol) Panthenol (Coast Southwest) 0.5 Endisil FS-193 (Coast Southwest) (PEG-12 dimethicone) 1.0 Uvasorb S5 (Coast Southwest) (3V Inc.) (Benzophenone-4) 0.1 Farmal GS 1653 (Coast Southwest) (Farmal) 1.5 (Hydrolyzed corn starch) Phase B Avocado Oil (Coast Southwest) (Persea gratissima 3.0 (avocado) oil) Endimulse 33V (Coast Southwest) (Caprylic/capric 0.5 triglyceride) Tocopheryl acetate (Coast Southwest) 0.05 Endisil F-350 (Coast Southwest) (Dimethicone) 1.0 Phase C Endicare ETP 437 (Coast Southwest) (Polyquaternium-37, 2.0 propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) trideceth-6) Phase D Fragrance q.s. PROCEDURE: Combine phase A ingredients and mix until uniform. Combine phase B ingredients and mix until uniform. Add phase B ingredients to phase A. Add phase C ingredients with high speed mixing. Mix until smooth and glossy. Add fragrance and mix until uniform. PROPERTIES: Viscosity— 16,000cps; pH—4.84

Moisturizing Hair Gel with Pentavitin Centerchem 203-822-9800 • Fax: 203-822-9820 Website: www.centerchem.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Deionized water Ultrez 10 (Lubrizol) Glycerin Phase B Hispagel 200NS (BASF/Centerchem) Phase C Pentavitin (DSM Nutritional Products Pentapharm Branch/Centerchem) Phase D Triethanolamine 99% Phase E Diocide (Centerchem)

WT.% 89.00 0.40 20.00 10.00 3.00

0.40 0.70

PROCEDURE: Sprinkle carbomer in phase A water with mixing. Once dispersed, add glycerin. Add Phase B, mix until uniform. Add Phase C, mix until uniform. Add Phase D, mix until uniform. Add Phase E, mix until uniform. ●

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December 2011

Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs/Switzerland, Phone +41 (0)62 836 17 31

PoreAway Effective, matifying skin refiner PoreAway is based on a premium extract of Mastic, a plant resin that is known for its anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory and astringent properties. Mastic is endemic to the Greek island of Chios and exclusively obtained from the Pistacia lentiscus tree. A smart vector system enables it to use Mastic for the very first time in a convenient preparation for cosmetic applications. • Visibly reduces the appearance of pores • Manages imperfections effectively • Keeps skin clear and refined

PoreAway resulted in a significant reduction of pore size and a rapid elimination of skin impurities – ensuring a smooth matt finish.

www.mibellebiochemistry.com

Distributed in the USA by: www.tri-k.com

Patent review

SUN PRODUCTS PATENTS DETERGENT • US Patent No. 8,030,264 B2; The Sun Products Corporation, Wilton, CT, has patented a detergent composition that contains approximately 5% by weight of a mixture of C10, C12, C14, C16 and C18 α-sulfofatty acid methyl esters. The mixture’s first component contains α-sulfofatty acid methyl esters derived from a natural fat or oil, while the second component is comprised of α-sulfofatty acid methyl esters comprising predominantly C16, C18, or C16 and C18 chain lengths. The mixture of the first and second components has an increased proportion of C16, C18, or C16 and C18 chain lengths relative to the normal proportion of C16, C18, or C16 and C18 chain lengths found in said natural fat or oil.

Personal Care Composition • US Patent No. 8,029,812 B2; E. I. du Pont de Nemours and Company, Wilmington, DE, has been awarded a patent for a personal care composition in solid, semisolid, solution or suspension form. It includes an effective amount of at least one active personal care ingredient in a vehicle, wherein the vehicle comprises from about 0.1 to 100% by weight, based on the weight of the vehicle, of polytrimethylene ether glycol, which is a homopolymer. The solid or semisolid composition is free from gelling agent other than polytrimethylene ether glycol.

P&G Patent Hair Coloring Composition •

US Patent No. 8,029,578 B2; The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, OH, has patented a hair coloring or bleaching composition that is comprised of an oxidizing agent, a gel network thickening system comprising first surfactant component selected from the group consisting of C14 to 30 alkyl phosphate, C14 to C30 alkyl ether phosphate and mixtures 20 • happi

thereof; a second component selected from the group consisting of C14 to C30 fatty alcohols; and a third surfactant component selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C14 to C30 alkyl ethers; and at least 3% of a polyol selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butoxydiglycol, ethoxydiglycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, and mixtures thereof. The composition has an ionic strength of less than 0.75 mole/kg and a viscosity of from about 9 Pa·s to about 16 Pa·s.

J&J Patents Hair Cleanser with Improved Color Retention • US Patent No. 8,030,262 B2; Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. has patented a method of cleansing dyed hair with improved color retention. It entails applying to dyed hair a composition that contains at least one anionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of sodium trideceth sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, and combinations thereof and at least one hydrophobically-modified polymer having a molecular weight of from about 3,500 to about 100,000 selected from the group consisting of hydrophobicallymodified starch polymers, hydrophobically-modified inulin polymers, and combinations of two or more thereof.

Epilatory Patented By UK Company • US Patent No. 8,038,723 B2; Reckitt & Colman (Overseas) Limited, Slough, Berkshire, UK, has been awarded a US patent for an epilatory composition. It is comprised of a rosinous or sugarbased matrix material in admixture with a particulate colloidal silica and a polyethylene in the form of a homopolymer, wherein the polyethylene is substantially linear or non-branched, has a molecular weight from about 250 to about 800 unihappi.com

fied mass units, and is present in an amount in the range 0.1% to 5% by weight of the composition. The ratio of silica to polyethylene is in the range 6.0:1.0 to 6.0:5.0 and wherein at least 60% of the weight of the epilatory composition is provided by rosinous material.

Anti-Aging Compositions Patented by McKA LLC • US Patent 8,039,012 B2; McKA LLC, Corona Del Mar, CA, has patented a method for treating the symptoms of skin aging. It entails topically administering a pharmaceutically effective dose of a composition that contains estriol, estradiol, hyaluronic acid, green tea extract and an acceptable carrier. Allergan Patents Eyelash Growth Method • US Patent No. 8,038,988 B2; Allergan, Inc., Irvine, CA, has patented a method of increasing one or more of the length, thickness, number, density, luster, sheen, brilliance, gloss, glow, shine and patina of eyelash hair. It comprises administering an effective amount of bimatoprost to an eyelid margin of a human. Kimberly-Clark Patents Skin Cooling Composition • US Patent No. 8,039,011 B2; KimberlyClark Worldwide, Inc., Neenah, WI, has patented a topical temperature change composition comprising effective amounts of a neurosensory component; a first phase change component having a first phase change temperature between about 15°C and about 40°C; and a second phase change component having a second phase change temperature different from the first phase change temperature, wherein the second phase change temperature is between about 15°C and about 40°C. • December 2011

DEADLINE DEC. 22, 2011

Contact your HAPPI sales rep for more information. Art Largar • 201.880.2259 • [email protected] Matt Montgomery • 201.880.2225 • [email protected] Beth Russo • 201.880.2255 • [email protected]

International

ORIFLAME NAMES FIRST CHARITY AMBASSADOR Sally Beauty Expands International Footprint • NETHERLANDS: Sally Beauty Hold-

Caroline Wozniacki is serving as Oriflame’s charity ambassador.

•SWEDEN: Oriﬂame has tapped tennis ace Caroline Wozniacki to be its ﬁrst charity ambassador. Oriﬂame’s charity work is an extension of its business philosophy, the company said. Oriﬂame provides an earning opportunity to millions of women. And when women earn money, 90% of them reinvest that money into their families, creating a positive socio-economic impact. “Caroline personiﬁes what our charity work stands for. As a young woman who has used the opportunities available to her to fulﬁll her dreams, she’s an inspiration to many,”said Magnus Brännström, CEO and president of Oriﬂame.“We’re delighted to welcome Caroline as our ﬁrst charity ambassador, and look forward to working with her as our charitable work develops and touches more lives around the world.” Wozniacki will support Oriﬂame’s charity mission globally, taking part in some awareness and fundraising activities, including visits to Oriﬂame’s local charity partners. She will also promote the Oriﬂame charity bracelet. Wozniacki visited the Educational Volunteer Foundation in Istanbul and held a short tennis lesson for the children there. 22 • happi

ings, Inc. has acquired Kappersservice Floral B.V. and two related companies, Hair Zone B.V. and Exphair B.V., collectively known as the Floral Group.The acquisition is consistent with Sally Beauty Holdings’international growth strategy and signiﬁcantly increases the company’s presence in Europe, according to the company. “The acquisition of Floral Group is another important step in expanding our international footprint,” said Gary Winterhalter, CEO of Sally Beauty Holdings.“We believe Floral Group is an exceptional addition to our business. It is the largest professional beauty supply group in the Netherlands and brings us an outstanding format to broaden our reach in serving both the professional and retail customers in Europe.This acquisition is highly complementary with our existing Belgium based Pro Duo business.” The Floral Group is headquartered in Eindhoven, Netherlands and had its start more than 60 years ago.The companies operate three concepts in the beauty industry and serve the professional and retail consumer through 19 stores and 33 direct sales consultants.Total revenues for Floral Group were approximately €22 million for the past 12 months, according to Sally Beauty.

Walgreens Donates Personal Care Items to USO •GERMANY:

Walgreens has donated nearly $400,000 worth of personal care items to the United Service Organizations (USO) to support operations in Landstuhl, Germany. The organization is focused on lifting the spirits of the nation’s wounded warriors and their families. The donation includes ﬁrst aid items, toiletries, diapers and baby bottles, as well as coloring books, gum and playing cards. The donation was shipped in late October and was set to arhappi.com

rive in time for Veterans Day on Nov. 11. “We’re sending these necessities and well wishes to American troops and families overseas as a way to say ‘thank you’ for all that they do,”said Walgreens community affairs director John Gremer.“These items are products many need and use and we hope they’ll help make life a little easier.” “USO Europe is honored to serve our nation’s service members as they deploy as well as welcome them home from combat zones,” said Walt Murren, regional VP of USO Europe.“This generous donation from Walgreens will further our mission of supporting our nation’s wounded warriors and bringing a touch of home to those who sacriﬁce so much.” Walgreens has a long history of supporting American troops and veterans, from providing a store in the Pentagon beginning in the 1940s to decades of donation and product drives, and extending company beneﬁts to employees called to active service. More info: www.walgreens.com

EU Court Rules on Pierre Fabre’s Internet Sales Case •PARIS: A ruling by the Court of Justice of the European Union (CJEU) says Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique can block internet sales by some of its product distributors only if it can provide a legitimate reason. The ruling countered a 2008 ﬁnding that Pierre Fabre’s ban on internet sales in its distribution agreements was anticompetitive. French judges had asked the CJEU for a clariﬁcation on the issue after a court adviser had said in March a ban on internet sales restricted competition. Pierre Fabre Laboratories have been opposed to the sale of dermo-cosmetic products on the internet for many years. The company argued that only the physical presence of a qualiﬁed pharmacist guarantees consumers the quality of pharmaceutical and personalized advice that is tailored to Decemeber 2011

International

meet their expectations of efficiency and safety. In addition, selling dermo-cosmetic products promotes their counterfeiting and deprives them of the cosmetovigilance monitoring completed by qualified pharmaceutical professionals, according to the company. Following the injunction of the French Competition Board to allow its distributors to sell on the internet, Pierre Fabre Laboratoires took the case to the Court of Appeal in Paris in October 2008. The Court acknowledged the merits of the arguments raised by Pierre Fabre Laboratoires and suspended the injunction until further notice. To decide on the merits, the Court of Appeal in Paris sought the opinion of the CJEU. According to Pierre Fabre, in a judgment, the CJEU supported by and large the conclusions of its Advocate General, who had already ruled on the matter on March 3. Thus, it considers that a total ban on internet sales restricts competition on principle. It did point out, however, that under certain circumstances individual exemptions may be granted. It is now up to the Court of Appeal in Paris to decide whether Pierre Fabre Laboratories is entitled to benefit from it. Pierre Fabre Laboratoires has taken note of the opinion of the European Union Court of Justice. They are satisfied that it opens the possibility of an individual exemption from a general principle. Since the start of the case, Pierre Fabre Laboratoires has stressed that dermo-cosmetic products are primarily health products, often integrated by dermatologists and pediatricians into the course of medical care, and as such they enjoy a special status that prevents their distribution on the internet. The decision of the Court of Appeal should be released in the first half of 2012.

Gattefossé Opens Formulation Building •FRANCE:

Gattefossé has opened the Blanche Gattefossé Formulation Building in Saint Priest. The Blanche Gattefossé formulation building brings together all the apparatus and tools used by the company to demonstrate and illustrate the properties of its products. The new Blanche Gattefossé Formula24 • happi

A look inside Gattefosse’s new formulation building in France.

tion Building houses the firm’s personal care applications laboratory and the pharmaceutical research laboratory and pharmaceutical applications laboratories. “The opening of this new formulation building is proof of our commitment to provide our customers with ever more effective technical solutions that go beyond what other ingredient and excipient manufacturers usually aim for,”said Gattefossé’s CEO Jacques Moyrand.“We consider this a long-term investment, a hub for innovation, enabling our group to continue to forge ahead, in spite of the fragile economic environment.” The building is named after “Blanche,” president of the company from 1950 to 1968 as a tribute to all the women who work at Gattefossé. More info: www.gattefosse.com

CPL Aromas Supports Schools in Sudan •SUDAN: Chris Pickthall and Abid Abbas of CPL Aromas joined Vincent Bolt of Catholic Overseas Development Agency (CAFOD) on a visit to inspect Sudanese schools that have recently received funding from a CAFOD initiative to improve the education of children in the community.They were shown the new facilities by Father Peter of the local parish who has become responsible for the new schools. happi.com

The Zagalona and Angola Basic schools in Karary in the Omdurman Province provide basic education to children from a variety of backgrounds whose families have limited resources and would otherwise not have the opportunity to attend school.

Ole Henriksen Goes South of the Border •MEXICO:

California-based skin care brand Ole Henriksen has been selling its skin care range in Mexico since Oct. 21 at the first Sephora store in the country. Located in the Antara Fashion Hall in Miguel Hidalgo, the Mexico City location marks the expansion, with additional stores set to open in 2012. “I truly love the spirit of the Mexican culture; therefore, it is a huge honor for me to launch my skin care range with Sephora in their new venture,”noted Ole Henriksen. “Best of all, I am afforded the opportunity to be at the grand opening, and meet all the wonderful people that are now part of the Ole Henriksen family.”

Naturex Acquires Burgundy Botanical Extracts •FRANCE:

Naturex has acquired Burgundy Botanical Extracts, a French manufacturer and supplier of plant extracts for the nutraceutical, pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. With 12 years of expertise in botanical December 2011

International

extracts, combined with a knowledge of medicinal plants and phytochemistry/biochemistry, Burgundy employs approximately 60 people at its two production sites based in France (Reyssouze-Department of Ain) and Spain (Palafolls) with signiﬁcant capacity for extraction, puriﬁcation and drying operations. The company’s sales are about €14 million or $19.2 million at current exchange rates. “This acquisition ﬁts perfectly with Naturex’s strategy for pursuing growth in its different markets. It is an excellent development opportunity in terms of both manufacturing capacity and commercial positioning,”commented Jacques Dikansky, Naturex’s chairman, CEO and founder. “With our successful track record in integrating companies and the promising potential for synergies and cross-selling from this merger, we are conﬁdent in our ability to generate sustainable proﬁtable growth, creating value for our customers, employees and investors.” In other news, Naturex has received the “Best Acquisition” award at the European Outsourcing Awards ceremony organized in Frankfurt as part of the CPhI trade show last week. Naturex has been granted this prize for its successful integration of the Natraceutical ingredients division into its various business units, the company said.

Dutch Government Invests In Skin Comfort Consortium •NETHERLANDS: In order to stimulate innovation and employment, the Dutch central and provincial governments are investing in Skin Comfort, a project by a consortium consisting of Radboud University Nijmegen Medical Centre, Philips,TenCate and a number of other partners. During the past few years, the Department of Dermatology of Radboud University Nijmegen Medical Centre (RUNMC) has been developing a new method for detailed examination of skin using light. This method cannot only be used to determine whether skin is diseased or healthy, but also to visualize the effects of sliding on artiﬁcial turf or using an electric razor. 26 • happi

The collaboration between medical experts, technologists and entrepreneurs offers excellent perspectives for developing new products such as sport ﬂoors, artiﬁcial turf systems and depilation devices. The Dutch central government and the provinces of Overijssel and Gelderland have invested €3 million in the Skin Comfort project; the 11 partners in the consortium have contributed €4 million. Philips, a major player in the consortium, makes use of test panels for the development of electric razors and depilation devices. Philips now intends to use the new method developed by RUNMC to measure skin irritation more accurately and objectively. During the development of an electric razor, it is essential that the device is tested as early as possible in the process, as this will lead to greater improvements. Drawing on the consortium’s knowledge and expertise, Philips will set out to ﬁnd better measuring methods to achieve a cleaner shave without skin irritation. More info: [email protected]

Bluestar Silicones Opens Lab in Barcelona •SPAIN: Bluestar Silicones, a subsidiary of the Bluestar Group, is opening a new technical service laboratory at its Spanish facility in Santa Perpètua (Barcelona). The laboratory will focus its activities on formulating and developing silicone products for the personal care industry. “The opening of our new technical service laboratory is an important step and a strong message emphasizing the importance of our Spanish facility as the Centre of Excellence Personal Care for the Bluestar Group,” said Grégoire Amice, global market manager for personal care at Bluestar Silicones.“This demonstrates our longterm commitment to our customers and distributors in this industry. The laboratory will also play a key role in further extending the Mirasil silicones portfolio for the cosmetic/personal care industry through proper coordination between all Bluestar R&D laboratories across the world, according to the company. More info: www.bluestarsilicones.com happi.com

Christeyns, Brenntag Join Forces on Fatty Acid Esters •BELGIUM: The Christeyns Oleochemicals Division has forged an agreement with chemicals distributor Brenntag Specialties Europe to market Christeyns’fatty acid esters in the European personal care and cosmetics sector. Fatty acid esters are a new addition to Christeyns’ product portfolio. Christeyns’ Oleochemicals Division already plays a leading role in the development and production of oleochemicals in different physical forms such as powders, liquids, ﬂakes, noodles and dispersions. After a year of extensive R&D and a €3 million factory investment, Christeyns has developed a specialty fatty acid portfolio under the brand name Besteris, and is also ready to offer customized ester formulae to the personal care and cosmetics market. “Within the European Brenntag Specialties organization we found the ideal combination of impressive sales coverage and a high level of expertise, both technically and commercially,”said Steve Clicteur, sales manager, Christeyns Oleochemicals Division. Michael Wilkop, Brenntag’s European marketing manager pharma and personal care, added“The cooperation in the ﬁeld of specialty esters represents a signiﬁcant complimentary addition to the product portfolio already successfully marketed by Brenntag Personal Care Europe. The mix of innovative products and customized solutions combined with a high level of customer service and market know-how is an excellent strategic ﬁt. The technical understanding and capabilities of Christeyns and their sales and marketing expertise are strong assets when it comes to developing and promoting more specialized products. We are delighted about the opportunity to cooperate with such a customer-oriented and forward-thinking company.” The fatty acid esters are produced in Christeyns’ production facility in Ghent, Belgium and will be available ﬁrst half 2012. More info: Steve Clicteur, [email protected]; www.christeyns.com • December 2011

Marketing News

COTY PRESTIGE AND MADONNA PLAY ‘TRUTH OR DARE’ Wright will be featured in Clairol Professional’s Reveal the Fabulous inYou Facebook contest where fans are invited to reveal what makes them fabulous.Three winners will receive aVIP trip to New York City for a makeover from Wright. Clairol is also hosting a Reveal the Fabulous in You sweepstakes where winners will be selected on a weekly basis and awarded prizes.

• P&G’s Ivory has tapped Emmy award-winner Melissa McCarthy to serve as the brand spokesperson and host of its new online social community, the “Soap Dish.” Online, McCarthy will engage with women and dish about life’s simple truths. The partnership and the new social community are part of the“holistic reinvention” of the brand which kicked-off last month with the debut of modernized packaging and a new advertising campaign. McCarthy won an Emmy for her portrayal of Molly in the CBS sitcom “Mike & Molly.” She has also appeared in “Bridesmaids,” Truth or Dare by Madonna rolls out in April 2012.

• 300 million records sold–and soon a fragrance too. Coty Prestige has signed an agreement with MG Icon LLC, a joint venture between Madonna, Guy Oseary and Iconix Brand Group, Inc., to launch the star’s first fragrance. The scent, Truth or Dare by Madonna, will debut exclusively at Macy’s in April 2012 in the US, with global distribution beginning the following month. “Madonna is the marquis addition to Coty’s unrivaled brand portfolio and further establishes us as cutting edge leaders in the global beauty industry,”Bernd Beetz, CEO, Coty Inc. said.“We are thrilled to embark on this new venture with Madonna, a global icon with unprecedented star power and cultural relevance.” Madonna will be featured in a global print, television, and online marketing campaign produced in collaboration with Fabien Baron of Baron & Baron who she has worked with on many projects including“Sex,”her renowned 1992 pictorial essay on sexuality. Truth or Dare by Madonna will be a signature floral fragrance. Its unique blend of narcotic florals, balanced with addictive woods and vanilla, is said to create a scent that is timeless, yet contemporary, simultaneously dark and light. The bottle is billed as a classic and sophisticated shape, with modern and edgy detailing. • Emmy Award-winning celebrity hairstylist Kiyah Wright has been tapped as the new face of Clairol Professional. Wright was discovered by Sean“Diddy”Combs as a teenager and has since gone on to coif A-listers such as Mary J. Blige, Jennifer Hudson, Faith Evans and Kerry Washington. She can also be found styling on-set for shows such as “The Tyra Show,”“America’s Next Top Model”and“America’s Got Talent,”and working behind the chair at the Warren-Tricomi Salon in Los Angeles. 28 • happi

Ivory has a new social community on Facebook.

making her a sought-after talent in Hollywood, according to P&G. The online community was born from the insights of a national “mom” survey commissioned by Ivory. This “light-hearted” social community will offer women an outlet to share in the everyday humor and honesty of their lives in an unapologetic manner. The community lives on the Ivory Facebook page. “We couldn’t think of a better spokesperson for Ivory,”said Jay Sethi, Ivory brand manager.“Melissa’s humor, simple charm and down-to-earth attitude fit with every bit of Ivory’s persona. More than refreshingly honest and sincere, she is every woman and a modern mom, and we think our fans will absolutely love her.”

• Evolution Robotics is debuting its Mint II Automatic Floor Cleaner at Kohl’s department stores.This exclusive model is sold at nearly 600 of the retailers’ locations nationwide and online at Kohl’s website.

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December 2011

Marketing News

According to Paolo Pirjanian, CEO of Evolution Robotics, by diversifying the existing product line and making it more accessible, the company is“hoping to find a new following of loyal Mint supporters who can appreciate a product that was designed to give them more time to spend doing the things they love.” The exclusive model is available in a charcoal and white color combination that integrates the recently released Pro-Clean System, allowing the system to mop better and further, according to the company.

• The ALS Therapy Development Institute (ALS TDI) and Avon Products have kicked off a fundraising campaign to fund research into effective treatments for ALS, also known as Lou Gehrig’s disease. The campaign includes the production of a new item called the“Sophia SmithYellow Rose Necklace”being added to its catalog and with all proceeds going to support research at ALS TDI. Sophia Smith ofVictoria,TX started part-time with Avon in 1986 and quickly excelled as a sales representative, becoming a senior executive and member of the Avon sales leadership team in 1992. She is a mother of three and an avid motorcyclist. In November 2010, Sophia was diagnosed with ALS, for which there are no ef-

fective treatments or cure. Each necklace is $9.99 and can be purchased through an Avon representative or online by clicking“fundraising”at the company’s website, www.avon.com.

• On Oct. 27, Dr. Howard Murad founder of Murad, Inc., in conjunction with the Murad Family Foundation, hosted the Second Annual Art of Giving charity art auction, which raised more than $26,000 for local and national charities. At the event, art aficionados, interior decorators, Murad fans and the local community previewed and purchased 19 original works of art created and donated

Dr. Howard Murad held his foundation’s second annual charity art auction.

Some people would go to the ends of the earth for silkier, shinier hair.

edients Natural, exotic in-gr aching found in the fare re . corners of th earth

Marketing News

by Murad himself, with proceeds benefiting charities of the buyer’s choice. More than 42 local and national charities registered for the event, held at the Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center, with winning bids going to City of Hope, Murad Family Foundation, Crohn’s and Colitis Foundation of America, The Alzheimer’s Association, and The Tree Musketeers, among others. In addition to raising money for numerous local and national charities, the funds raised from the show’s hero piece“Hope,”and all print versions of the piece sold that night, were to be donated to City of Hope, which is a leading research, treatment and education center for cancer, diabetes and other life-threatening diseases. More info: www.muradartofgiving.com

• Pravana Naturceuticals has created a new application for the iPhone. According to the company, the Pravana Chromasilk Formulator allows users to input the client’s natural hair color, including any percentage of gray to take into account, as well as the target color. Chromasilk color swatches are available for insight on pre-lightening steps, the correct colors for hair, plus the proper developer volume and amount. The app is free. More info: www.Pravana.com

• The second annual Dove Self-Esteem Weekend, held in late October, brought together Girl Scouts of the USA, Girls Inc. and Boys & Girls Clubs of America to encourage women to spend an hour on a self-esteem building activity with a girl in their lives. Why? A recent global study commissioned by Dove entitled“The Real Truth About Beauty: Revisited”reveals that only 11% of girls would describe themselves as beautiful. This lack of self-esteem only gets worse as girls get older. According to the study, 80% of women agree that every woman has something about her that is beautiful but do not see their own beauty. Dove, which has already reached more than 8 million girls with self-esteem education, has set a goal to reach 15 million girls by 2015. For those who answer the question “Who Inspired You?” on Dove’s online channels—Facebook,Twitter and Dove.com, to honor the positive impact someone had on their life—the company will make a $1 donation to support self-esteem education in the U.S. More info: www.Dove.com

• For the past 30 years, Andrea Friedlander, a Hungarian esthetician, has worked in Los Angeles for prominent dermatologists and luxury skin care salons. Now she has launched a new

At Lipo®, we call them scientists®. Nobody knows where the next big ingredient is going to come from. But at Lipo, we never stop looking for it. So along with formulating technologies and platforms that help companies use it, our scientists go to great lengths—and depths—to find the next big idea in skincare, haircare and color cosmetics. After all, beauty may be only skin deep, but at Lipo we dare to look beneath the surface.

BEAUTY IS OUR SCIENCE® www.lipochemicals.com

Marketing News

website, SkincareSolutionsByAndrea, which is intended to address common skin care problems and offer solutions to those problems. “Because I don’t promote a personal skin care line and because I only use products manufactured by some of the most reputable pharmaceutical companies in the world, I owe no allegiance to any one manufacturer,”she said.“I don’t get paid commissions by any manufacturer and I often recommend competing products from different manufacturers to address the same condition. The result is that my clients trust my opinions.”

the upcoming collaboration with M.A.C features an extraordinary campaign visual shot by Man. The M.A.C for Chen Man collection will feature limited edition mineralize eyeshadows with a yin/yang design and will be available globally at M.A.C outlets from March 2012.

• Swiffer has teamed up with An• Put a toilet-training toddler plus a warm bathtub together and what do you get? If you guessed the potential for a big mess you aren’t too far off. At The Clorox Company, that is known as a bleachable moment—and to celebrate those moments, the firm has launched the Bleach It Away program. The new online community invites visitors to share their own bleachable moments and commiserate with other moment survivors, while receiving real-time advice and solutions from Clorox’s panel of cleaning and laundry experts. Everyone who shares a story has a chance to win $25,000. More info: www.bleachitaway.com

• Reckitt Benckiser—parent of Clearasil, Durex, Lysol, Woolite and other familiar brands—has rolled out a collection of mobile and online minigames called crazieRBrands. Available on www.RB.com, the games offer players the opportunity to win an exciting and unforgettable trip for two, worth nearly $13,000 to one of eight amazing destinations worldwide—including New York, Cape Town, Bangkok, Geneva, Barcelona, Iceland, Brazil or India. The selection of eight minigames in the crazieRBrands suite includes fast action and memory games presented by some of RB’s most famous Powerbrands. For example, theVeet game lends an air of humor to the leg-waxing task; and cleaning a toilet bowl is rendered fun when playing the Lysol game. RB says the online and mobile crazieRBrands games are designed to raise awareness of its corporate brand among the college, MBA and early careerist demographic—by improving recall of the RB brand and tying it back to its iconic, innovative Powerbrands such as Lysol, Durex and Clearasil. The crazieRBrands suite of games is available on iPhone and Android, putting RB squarely in the sweet spot of its target demographic. “RB has a unique culture that’s most suitable for young professionals who enjoy quick decision making, coupled with a fastpaced and agile environment,” said Rob de Groot, EVP of North America and Australia at RB.“To continue our rapid growth we are always looking for innovative ways to make ourselves better known among the next generation of managers.” The games and mobile app have been developed in partnership with The Workroom and social media agency TAMBA. • M.A.C Cosmetics is collaborating with China’s foremost fashion photographer, Chen Man. Inspired by Chen Man’s vision, 32 • happi

gelo Surmelis, host of“Rate My Space” M.A.C for Chen Man on the Swiffer HD Clean Challenge, a nationwide search for rooms that meet a new standard of clean. Entrants will be eligible to win a year’s supply of select new and improved Swiffer HD products and an in-home visit from Surmelis captured in an on-air vignette. Through Jan. 5, 2012 consumers are invited to post photos of their picture-perfect rooms and share their cleaning tips on the HD Clean Challenge tab on facebook.com/swiffer. Once the top 10 rooms have been selected, Swiffer fans will vote on the top rooms to help select a grand prize winner. This winner will receive a surprise home visit, a year’s supply of select Swiffer products and the chance to have their room featured on television.

•

In celebration of its recentlylaunched Voluminous False Fiber Lashes Mascara, L’Oréal Paris is kicking off a nationwide digital campaign that challenges women to stop faking it and to start getting real. Consumers can visit L’Oréal Paris’Facebook page to take the pledge and enter daily for the chance to win a free, full-size Voluminous False Fiber Lashes Mascara. While at the brand’s Facebook page, beauty aficionados can also learn about the product’s fiber technology, watch a featured tutorial video with L’Oréal Paris Consulting Markup Artist Collier Strong and read the latest consumer reviews from real women who are no longer faking it.

• Tide Dry Cleaners has won top honors in The Hub Magazine’s inaugural Hub Prize competition for excellence in the retail experience. Developed by Procter & Gamble’s Fabric Care business and FutureWorks Division, Tide Dry Cleaners prevailed over Voluminous False Lashes more than 80 competitors, 36 of which Mascara from L’Oréal

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December 2011

Marketing News

were honored as Gold, Silver and Bronze medalists. “Tide Dry Cleaners is a risky venture for Procter & Gamble, but it also stands to deepen consumer loyalties to unimaginable levels by turning a generally dismal retail experience—going to the dry cleaners—into something that actually makes a positive difference in people’s daily lives,”said Tim Manners, founder of The Hub Magazine. “This surprising foray into the dry-cleaning business by a packaged-goods brand truly represents what is possible at retail for those willing to think differently and proceed boldly,”Manners added. Hub Prize candidates were evaluated by a diverse panel of 25 judges, including leading academics, best-selling book authors and high-profile veterans of major brands and retailers. Competitors were graded based on criteria including innovation; the shopper insight and emotional connection; how much the initiative improved the retail experience; and results achieved.The top 12 Gold Medal winners were then featured in a public vote to finalize the Ultimate Hub Prize winner. Two other candidates rounded out the top three in the public vote: Disney’s high-tech re-imagination of its stores and KimberlyClark’s“U by Kotex,”a shopper-marketing campaign in the femi-

nine-care category. Winners represented a broad array of categories, including shopper-marketing campaigns; retail concepts and reinventions; apps; in-store media; new products; packaging; database marketing; displays and vending machines. The 36 Hub Prize winners are featured in a special, subscribersonly supplement to the November/December issue of The Hub Magazine.

• Soap.com is adding a grocery category that will carry more than 10,000 non-perishable food items like coffee and tea, snacks, cereal, pasta, baking ingredients and canned items. According to Quidsi CEO Marc Lore, customers have been asking about grocery since the firm launched Soap.com in 2010. “It was a seamless transition to offer a large selection of beverages, snacks and meal prep items for the whole family on Soap.com. Our goal is to continue to expand our product selection, and ultimately, help eliminate errands so our shoppers can spend more time doing the things they enjoy,”he said. Soap.com is a member of the Quidsi family, which is also the parent company of Diapers.com, BeautyBar.com, Wag.com and YoYo.com. •

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innovating possibility ™ December 2011

Gleams & Notions

FIND OUT WHAT’S SO SPECIAL ABOUT AMPHOSOL CDB SPECIAL

S

8. Panthenol 0.25 TEPAN CHEMICAL, Chicago, 9. Glycol distearate 0.25 IL, produces a secondary 10. Fragrance 0.10 surfactant for cleansing 11. Preservative, dye, and citric acid q.s. products such as shampoos and 12. Water q.s. 100 body washes called Amphosol CDB Special (INCI name: Cetyl Procedure: Begin heating water in betaine). This clear liquid is 30% main vessel. With constant stirring, add active with 37% solids and conthe first four ingredients and the glycol tains no dioxane, PEG or EO/PO. stearate while heating to 60-65°C. Mix It is readily biodegradable, made for 30 minutes, begin cooling to 40°C from natural fatty methyl esters, and add the collagen, flax extract, pancan be mixed cold, and has a thenol and polyquaternium 7. Cool to Biorenewable Carbon Index (BCI) of 78. The BCI is derived by Amphosol CDB makes it possible to create sulfate-free body wash. 25°C to adjust the pH with citric acid or sodium hydroxide, if necessary. Add dividing the number of biorenewable carbons by the total carbons in the with 2% salt. The mixture of CDB and preservative, dye, and fragrance as needed. The above is a pearlized viscous liquid, idealized molecule times 100. Biorenewable sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, disodium laumaterials originate from animal-, plant- or reth sulfosuccinate (LSB) reached ph 5.0-5.5, and a viscosity at 25°C of 5500 20,000cps with about 1.5% salt but when to 6500 cps. marine-based sources. The simple body wash below is also Tests were run using Amphosol CDB more salt was added, the viscosity began Special with various sulfate-free surfactants dropping and 2% salt gave a viscosity of sulfate-free. to determine the amount of sodium chlo- about 15,000cps. With sodium laureth sulride necessary to increase the viscosity of fate (the control), the viscosity started to Sulfate-Free Body Wash the mix. The greatest increase of viscosity rise at 1% salt to a maximum of about Ingredients: %WT. occurred with the mixture of CDB and 24,000cps with 2% salt. 1. Sodium methyl-2-sulfolaurate, 16.22 A shake-foam test was done using a sodium C14-16 16 olefin sulfonate, where disodium 2-sulfolaurate the viscosity started to rise at about 0.4% 0.2% active solution of the surfactants and 2. Amphosol CDB Special 13.32 salt and reached a maximum of 30,000cps tap water with and without castor oil. Mild- 3. Polyquaternium 7 2.84 ness was measured by calculating the 4. Glycerine 1.50 amount of Zein protein solubilized in a 1% 5. Fragrance 0.10 active surfactant solution as compared to 6. Kathon CG (preservative) 0.05 sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). The less pro- 7. Citric acid or sodium hydroxide q.s. tein solubilized, the milder the surfactant. (25%) SLS alone solubilized the most protein; the 8. Dye q.s. mixture of CDB and LSB dissolved the least 9. Water q.s. 100 amount of protein. Harvey M. Fishman Procedure: To water in tank, with constant Consultant stirring, add Polyquaternium 7 and mix Sulfate-Free Shampoo until dissolved and solution is clear. Add Harvey Fishman has a consulting Ingredients: %WT. first two ingredients, then glycerine. When 1. Sodium methyl-2-sulfolaurate, 27.00 firm located at 34 Chicasaw Drive, disodium 2-sulfolaurate homogeneous, add fragrance, dye and preOakland, NJ 07436, [email protected], specializ2. Amphosol CDB Special 15.13 servative and mix well. Adjust pH.Viscosity ing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, 3. Lauryl lactyl lactate 0.50 may be adjusted with sodium chloride if offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 4. Sodium lauroyl lactylate 0.50 needed. years of experience and has been director of research 5. Hydrolyzed collagen 0.25 This is a clear, viscous liquid with a at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes 6. Linium usitatissium extract (Flax) 0.25 viscosity of 7,000 to 9,000 cps and a pH descriptive literature from suppliers and bench 7. Polyquaternium 7 2.84 of 5.2 – 5.8. chemists and others in the field. • December 2011

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happi • 35

Regulations

THE COUNCIL, SAI CREATE NEW SUPPLIER ASSESSMENT PROGRAM • The Personal Care Products Council has partnered with SAI Global to create a voluntary, customized supplier training and assessment program designed to verify cosmetic and personal care products manufacturers and suppliers operate in accordance with Good Manufacturing Practices (GMPs) that promote manufacturing quality excellence.This news was released at The Council’s annual Science Symposium, which was held in Newark, NJ in October (for more coverage of the event, see p. 101 in this issue). The Personal Care Manufacturing Assessment Program (PCMAP) is based on widely accepted international standards ISO 22716 Cosmetics Good Manufacturing Practices, which provides guidelines relating to the production, control, storage and shipment of cosmetic products. PCMAP is unique in that it also incorporates key elements of ISO 9001 as well as includes multiple risk level categories where suppliers may be evaluated based on the perceived risk level of the product or component provided. Quality assurance leaders from across the industry participated in the creation of PCMAP. With the objective to reduce wasteful, redundant auditing, the industry recognizes that assessments based on ISO standards will enable both suppliers and their customers to focus on creating the innovative and effective products consumers demand.

Use of this item can cause peritonitis, cellulitis and bacteremia.The voluntary recall is being made with the knowledge of the Food and Drug Administration. This cosmetic item was produced at Radical Cosmetics, New Brunswick, NJ. Other random products tested that were produced at a facility owned and operated by Purity Cosmetics were all found safe and free of any bacteria. Purity began shipping this product on or after March 7, 2011. Up to 300 units of this item were distributed to retail stores in California, Florida, New York, Indiana, Texas, Illinois, Oregon, Minnesota,Virginia, Oklahoma, Pennsylvania, Nevada and Tennessee. In a release sent out by FDA, Purity said:“As stated earlier, high quality, purity and safety is our top priority so this is extremely devastating for us—even though this item was not produced or filled at our own facilities. But since it bears our name, we take as much responsibility as if we made it ourselves. We are taking every measure to ensure the quality and purity of all our third party vendors who make products for our brand so that this never happens again. We are extremely sorry and hope that the actions of our 3rd party, contract manufacturing vendor did not make you lose faith in our brand. Most items (most of the skin care, bath & body care, hair care) are produced in our own facilities which are of the highest quality, purity and of safety.”

FDA Meeting on Microbiological Safety Issues in Cosmetics

CSI Appoints Ames & Gough New Program Manager

• The US Food and Drug Administration’s Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition (CFSAN) planned to hold a public meeting in Washington, D.C., on Nov. 30, 2011, on microbiological safety issues relevant to cosmetic products. The purpose of the meeting was to provide stakeholders an opportunity to present information to the agency regarding a variety of cosmetic microbiological safety issues, including microbiological testing of cosmetics; types of preservative systems and how to test their effectiveness; the identity and prevalence of microorganisms that pose specific health risks in finished products; routes of exposure to microorganisms and the corresponding infective doses; product and packaging characteristics that affect microbial growth and risk of infection; consumer subpopulations that may be at greater risk of infection from cosmetic products; adverse events associated with microbial contamination of cosmetics; and areas where FDA guidance may be useful.

Purity Cosmetics Recalls Eyeshadow • Purity Cosmetics, San Jose, CA, is conducting a voluntary product recall of its 100% Pure Fruit Pigmented Cocoa Plum Eyeshadow. This recall has been initiated due to Pseudomonas luteola found in Lot #1B11 of the 100% Pure Cocoa Plum Eyeshadow. 36 • happi

• Consumer Specialties Insurance Company’s Risk Retention Group has appointed Ames & Gough Insurance/Risk Management, Inc. (A&G) as the new program manager for the CSI program. CSI had been working with Hanna, Kremer & Tilghman Insurance (HKT). HKT was sold to another agency that has decided to withdraw from the program management business. The transition to A&G was effective Dec. 1, 2011. “We had an excellent relationship with HKT and thank them for all of their hard work in keeping our policyholders in good hands with CSI,”said Chris Cathcart, CSI president and president and CEO of the Consumer Specialty Products Association.“We wish them well under their new leadership and will look forward to our new relationship with Ames & Gough.” As the new program manager for CSI, Ames & Gough will coordinate all risk selection and recruitment, serve as national broker, and issue policies for CSI. A&G’s primary objectives will be to serve current policyholders and seek additional participants for CSI. “We are confident that A&G will continue to provide the high level of client-focused service to our existing policyholders, and the agents/brokers that work with them, that they have come to expect from the CSI program,”Cathcart concluded. •

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December 2011

EuroTrends

ORAL CARE MARKETERS KEEP SMILING IN EUROPE

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HERE HAVE BEEN some things to smile about during the past year in the Big 5 countries with most countries making gains in value terms. France, Germany and Spain all put in polished performances, but the UK and Italy posted losses, albeit tiny ones. In this somewhat utilitarian category, it is sometimes difficult to keep the momentum and excitement going, so credit those countries that managed to make gains and new product development (NPD) played a large part in these gains.

A Polished Performance According to SymphonyIRI France the toothpaste market in the country grew by 4.6% in the past year to $505 million, a slight increase on the previous year’s performance. However, the most impressive growth in French oral care came from toothbrushes, which put on an even more impressive 12.2% to total $253 million— electronic toothbrushes alone grew 58%. Manual varieties meanwhile dipped by 2%, showing that consumers are losing interest in this format. But as electric toothbrushes are much more expensive than their manual counterparts, this can only spell good news for the sector going forward.

Katie Middleweek Editor, European Cosmetic Markets European Cosmetic Markets is

Most of the Big 5 in Europe have something to smile about when it comes to oral care sales.

In terms of NPD, one unique and already successful launch this year was Dr. Philip L from Denivit Expert (Henkel), a whitening range which is also the first mass market “doctor” brand from an oral care manufacturer in France. The line, developed with aesthetic dentist Philip Lepki, features two innovations, Dentrifice Blancheur, a whitening toothpaste that promises to make teeth two shades whiter if used daily, and Soin Blancheur Intense 7 Jours, an intensive treatment that claims to leave teeth looking three times whiter in just a week.

published monthly by HPCi Media Limited. It provides in-depth data and analysis of the European cosmetics and toiletries market. For subscription details contact HPCi Media Limited, Tel: (44) 0207 193 7447 • Fax: (44) 20 7549 8622

38 • happi

Chipping Away at Growth The German oral care market had a generally successful year, according to figures from SymphonyIRI Germany. Results show that happi.com

the toothpaste sales rose 2.7% in the past year to reach $558 million. But the mouthwash category didn’t fare as well, slipping 0.8% to $164 million.Volume sales for both of the main sectors though were healthy with toothbrush volume sales up by 1.1% and mouthwash volume sales up 2.4%. When it came to new products, there were rollouts from all of the usual suspects including oral care giants GSK and domestic company Henkel. From the GSK stable came Odol-Med Whole Tooth protection toothpaste, said to protect teeth above and below the gum line while also containing an extra portion of fluoride; and Odol-Med White & Shine, with two types of cleaning particles including larger silica particles and smaller micro pearls. From Henkel came TherDecember 2011

EuroTrends

amed White Booster, an antibacterial toothpaste and mouthwash in one. When used in tandem, teeth are said to appear optically whiter after just one use. The company says that prolonged application will strengthen that effect.

Between the Lines The Italian oral care market didn’t fare quite so well, as sales slipped a scant 0.2% to $735 million, according to industry body Unipro. Of that total, toothpastes accounted for $651 million, while mouthwash sales totalled $84 million. The vast majority of products was sold in the Italian mass market, which is largely where one would expect, although Italians are paying more attention to their mouth and gums, as some recent new launches indicate. In the past year, Swedish brand TePe Oral Hygiene products opened a branch in Milan with a plan to “take care of Italian

smiles.”The range has a variety of toothbrushes and flosses for consumers and dentists alike.The latest launch came in the interdental sector with the TePe Angle brush, which is said to be easy to use and effective at the same time. According to the company, the handle’s proportions have been calculated to offer the best grip and the angled brush head accesses difficult to reach areas.

Protect and Perfect

Sales of oral care products have increased across the board in Spain, rising a respectable 2% to $471 million, according to SymphonyIRI Spain. Volume sales also increased a hefty 6% to 83 million units. As with Italy, the majority of these sales were made in the mass market, specifically pharmacies, supermarkets and hypermarkets. In terms of volume sales, the biggest category was toothbrushes, which count for 65% of the market here whereas in terms of sales value, toothpaste and mouthwashes account for 54% and 23% of the market, respectively. There have been a number of new product launches in the past year in Spain. The Sensodyne brand (GSK) has introduced the Repair and Protect fluoride toothpaste that is designed to repair and strengthen sensitive teeth rather than just relieve pain. The toothpaste, which is designed to be used every day, contains the patented NovaMin technology that, GSK says, is scientifically proven to repair teeth by forming a “tooth-like layer”over the exposed dentine. Originally developed to support bone regeneration, NovaMin releases calcium and phosphate ions when it comes into contact with saliva or water. These ingredients are naturally attracted to exposed dentine, forming an Sweden’s TePe oral hygiene products are now available in Italy. optimum barrier to acids con40 • happi

happi.com

GSK launched Odol-Med White & Shine in Germany.

tained in food and drink within five days. Spanish firm Laboratorios Lacer, meanwhile, has introduced a new formulation for its Lacer Blanc Plus toothpaste that has whitening, anti-plaque and antitartar action. The new product is said to be 94% effective in removing stains from teeth but is not too abrasive as to prevent daily use.

Solid Future? The UK market for oral care also had a more mixed performance in the past year, according to Kantar Worldpanel.Value sales slipped 0.4%, yet still exceed $1.2 billion. In contrast, volume sales rose 3.6% to 462 million units. With a penetration rate in the UK of 97%, toothpaste is used by most of the population but only 39% of UK consumers use mouthwash and an even smaller 18% use floss. An emerging trend in the UK is for “solid” toothpastes, which are more convenient for travel purposes than traditional toothpastes and which can be popped in one’s handbag/pocket for a quick freshen up in a day-to-night situation. Naturals company Lush recently branched out from bath and body care and launched Toothy Tabs, a solid toothpaste concept, now available in six flavors. The ethically-motivated brand developed them in response to statistics revealing two million tubes of toothpaste, each containing 4% of their original contents, find their way into UK landfills every year. Although the figures can sometimes make the oral care category look a little stagnant, it can be seen that the oral care category in Europe is far from lacklustre and even if the figures aren’t up to scratch, the NPD in this sector is very encouraging. • December 2011

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Notes from China

BABY CARE IN CHINA: A RECESSION-PROOF CATEGORY

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to Western countries, I always ask my friends what I can buy for them, and the most requests by expectant and new mothers are,“can you ship baby powder milk (or baby care products) for me?”It seems logical to me considering the recent safety and quality concerns over baby care products here in China. Incidents such as melamine-contaminated milk in 2008 and baby powder containing prohibited amount of asbestos in 2009 have ruined Chinese parents’ faith in domestic baby products. Still, there is an enormous opportunity for growth in the baby care market as China’s baby boom has been looming for decades. According to Beijing Answer Marketing Consulting, China is currently the world’s second largest consumer market for babies and children goods (after the US). With an annual growth rate of 30% since 2000, this market was worth nearly $16 bilEFORE TRAVELING

Ally Dai Happi China Ally Dai is senior editor of HAPPI CHINA. She has more than 10 years of experience in the cosmetic and food industries. HAPPI CHINA is a leading media for the China household & personal care industry. Published by Ringier Trade Media in strategic editorial partnership with HAPPI, it helps local manufacturers update their knowledge on formulating, testing and packaging, as well as providing market insight.

Website: www. industrysourcing.com

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tors despite a marked decline in the birth rate, according to Euromonitor. The most significant one is China’s one child policy, which resulted in a distinctive family structure with four grandparents, two parents and one child. This “4+2+1” structure in turn results in grandparents and parents being keen to indulge the only child. Another one is longterm growth in disposable income levels, which enables grandparents and parents to spend more freely on children. According to the China Academy of Social Sciences, Chinese households spend up to 50% of total family income on the child.

Parents dote on their children in China.

lion at the end of 2008, and is expected to reach $23 billion at the end of 2010. According to National Population and Family Planning Commission (NPFPC), some 20,800 babies have been born every day during the past decade, despite an attempt to curb population growth by the Chinese government, which adopted its one-child policy in 1979, which encourages late marriages and late childbearing and limits most urban couples to one child.The one-child policy impacted about 36% of China’s population and the government claims the controversial policy has led to 400 million fewer births. The recent baby boom can be attributed primarily to economic incentives—newlywealthy couples find they can afford to pay fines incurred from having more than one child. A survey conducted by the NPFPC found the number of rich people having more than one child is rapidly rising. Another reason for the boom is that there are millions of Chinese in their 20s and 30s who are now allowed two children under the policy because they themselves are single children. Consequently, China’s baby care industry benefited from the two major fachappi.com

Competitive Landscape No wonder why the baby care segment has prospered during the past year. According to a Euromonitor report, sales have soared—even as the birth rate dropped from 12.4 births per 1,000 in 2005 to just 11.8 births in 2010. The stronger growth was attributed to consumers’ economic concerns easing as the Chinese economy returned to growth. Baby skin care and toiletries remain the main entry points to China’s baby care market, and jointly dominate sales, accounting for 48% and 38%, respectively, of baby care value sales in 2010, according to Euromonitor. Consumers rarely see a need for baby sun care or baby hair care. Many parents use baby bath products both for cleansing and washing baby hair, while babies are usually kept out of the sun and thus do not require sun care products. Meanwhile, consumers are highly familiar with baby skin care and baby toiletries thanks to strong consumer education campaigns from leading companies such as Johnson & Johnson and P&G. Sales of baby skin care products rose December 2011

Notes from China

16% to about $270 million last year, driven by consumers increasingly switching to baby-specific products, partly because of rising disposable income levels, and parents increasingly recognizing that babies’ delicate and sensitive skin requires gentler products. Sales also received a boost from women who prefer to buy baby care products instead of adult products because baby products are considered to be milder. Baby hair care and toiletries have also been fuelling strong growth in the baby care market, with each category growing 15% last year to reach $66.4 million and $209 million, respectively, according to Euromonitor.

areas are likely to trade up to premium products. On the other hand, for those in lower tier cities and rural areas where the baby care market is much less developed, better quality and safety are the priorities. In order to capture this large and fastgrowing market, it is important to under-

stand unique Chinese baby care behavior. In China, it is very common for a couple to live with their parents right after marriage or pregnancy, and to seek baby care help from the older generation; therefore, brand owners must consider and influence multiple decision-makers including grandparents. •

J&J Dominates Johnson & Johnson continues to dominate, with a 55.9% share, according to Euromonitor. The company benefits from its strong brand image in China, which was cultivated over many years via consumer education campaigns and advertising, as well as by working with healthcare providers to offer free samples to new mothers. In 2010, Johnson’s Baby held a 50% value share in baby hair care, 53% share in baby skin care, 65% share in baby sun care and 61% share in baby toiletries. Other top players in the market include TianjinYumeijing Group Co. Ltd. (7.5%), Henkel China Co. Ltd. (7.2%), Shuangfei Daily Chemicals Co. Ltd. (6.6%), Pigeon (Shanghai) Co. Ltd. (4.7%) and Shanghai Elsker International Business Co. Ltd. (3.8%), according to Euromonitor.

Market Prediction With 16 million babies born in China in 2009 and the number of births expected to peak in 2015, experts consider this to be the fourth baby boom since 1949. Although smaller than previous baby booms, the China baby market is expected to grow for the next 20 years or so, given the country’s rising economic outlook. As China’s baby boom has led to a massive development of products related to babies and children, both premium and mass baby care continue to appeal to distinct consumer groups in China. On the one hand, with strong growth in Chinese consumers’ income levels, middle-class parents in urban December 2011

happi.com

happi • 43

News from Latin America

BEL COL COSMETICOS ENTERS BRAZIL

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N A MARKET dominated by direct sales companies such as Avon and Natura, Bel Col Cosmeticos is still relatively unknown in Brazil, despite the fact that the multinational cosmetics company has operations in 16 countries around the world including Peru, Argentina, Mexico, Venezuela, France and Germany. According to Euromonitor, Bel Col was the third largest cosmetic company in Latin America, even before entering Brazil. It landed here with an intense campaign to open opportunities for enterprising people who want to be part of its team of independent consultants. Bel Col uses the multilevel business model with three exclusive brands, L’Bel, Ésika and Cyzone, targeted at different audiences. Early next year, its beauty portfolio will include 800 products—giving it the largest number of products in a catalog of direct sale companies selling to the Brazilian consumer. The company has 850,000 consultants to get all those product catalogs into consumers’hands.

Direct marketers such as Avon, Natura and Bel Col provide personalized service.

Debt Load Slows Hypermarcas For the past 15 years, Hypermarcas relied on acquisitions to expand its business. Company founder Joao Alves Queiroz Filho built Hypermarcas by acquiring more than 30 companies, that includes spending $4.7 billion for personal care, beauty, pharmaceuticals and household products. Last year alone, Hypermarcas closed 10 acquisitions, among them the largest in its history, laboratory Mantecorp, for $1.4 billion. But acquisitions have been negligible in 2011 as the company’s debt load has risen and its share price has fallen. Since the start of the year, the stock has lost 60% of its value, at the same time, debt rose to $1.58 billion in the second quarter. To boost its balance sheet, the company is closing factories in rented properties and transferring production lines to Goias (central region of the country). The cosmetics segment will be transferred to Senador Canedo, also in Goias.

Natura’s Q3 Sales Rise 7.8% Sueli Ortega Correspondent Sueli Ortega has written for Isto É and O Estado de São Paulo. Since 1987, she has served as a correspondent for Cosmetics International. In addition, she created the beauty channel for El Sitio, an Argentinean website and the Women Channel.

She has her own website, Cosmeticos BR and can be reached at [email protected]

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Natura’ third quarter sales rose 7.8% to $851 million, while net income increased 5.2% to $124 million. Domestic sales increased 5.5% to $768 million, while international sales surged 42%. During the period, Natura launched 69 new products, includingVôVó, which features the innovative proposal of celebrating the bond between grandparents and grandchildren (see HAPPI, August). Meanwhile, Natura Ekos is being relaunched in a move to be concluded by year-end.The move includes new happi.com

formulas and packaging that strengthen the connection these products enjoy with Brazil’s biodiversity, according to the company. Through the nine months, Natura has introduced 109 products. For the year, consolidated sales rose 9.5% to $2.4 billion and net income increased 2.9% to $332 million. Thus far in 2011, the number of active representatives has risen 16.3% to more than 1.3 million. The number of Brazilian reps rose 14.9% to more than 1.1 million, and international representatives increased 23.2% to reach 230,000.

P&G Expands Distribution A growing Brazilian middle class is eager to purchase health and beauty aids, and Procter & Gamble is eager to sell products to them in all regions and through all retail outlets. “The Class C is consuming more technology and innovation,” said Jose Antonio Valdez, commercial director. “Today, the market is ready for our product lines. Who would have thought seven years ago that we could succeed with whitening toothpaste, or a line like Head & Shoulders? Products with higher added value are booming.” To take advantage of this new reality, P&G is expanding distribution of Olay beyond pharmacies and into supermarkets. The company hopes to duplicate the success of Pantene, which is the No. 2 hair care brand in Brazil after sales have jumped 10 December 2011

News from Latin America

times since 2006. P&G expects Pantene sales to quadruple by 2015.

lipe Miranda, president of Avon Brazil.

J&J Restructures Hair Color Sales Post Gains And yet, while the middle class is driving skin care sales, it is consumers in lower income brackets who are pacing hair colorant sales. Last year, sales of hair colorants rose 3% in Brazil. However, consumers in the lowest income brackets bought 13% more product. The share of low-income families who put the item in the cart at least once in a year was also the one who most climbed—from 49% to 54%. “The category growth has been driven by the D and E classes,” said Arthur Oliveira, an analyst at Nielsen.“The expansion did not occur via reduction of prices.” Value sales rose 28%, which was higher than in volume in these income brackets. For the same period, sales of the market as a whole grew 9.4%, to $764 million. It is a sign that the low-income consumer has given preference to items with higher added value.

L’Occitane Grows 35% L’Occitane is also betting on Brazil, as sales are growing about 35% a year, according to Anna Chaia, president of the Brazilian subsidiary. “Brazil is a priority for the company. We are opening about 20 stores per year. In 2009 we started the e-commerce platform and today products are available throughout the country. We are also present in pharmacies,”she said.

Avon Brazil Leads Growth Avon Brazil has been operating in the country for 53 years. But last year marked the first time that the unit had the highest turnover among the group’s subsidiaries around the world. From 2005 to 2010 the Brazilian subsidiary registered cumulative growth of 178%. “Brazil has shown a trend of economic growth steady and sustained. We are carefully monitoring this movement and the market opportunities, with consumer greater purchasing power and demand for products with higher quality,”said Luis FeDecember 2011

Johnson & Johnson is the Brazilian market leader in key categories such as sunscreen, feminine care, mouthwashes, children’s lines and wound dressings. To

meet growing demand, J&J has restructured its operations to be more closely aligned to regional markets such as North and Northeast, where annual gains exceed 10% and J&J is a leader in marketing initiatives such as global sponsorship of FIFA World Cup in 2014. •

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Human Capital Management

OPTIMIZE YOUR VIRTUAL WORLD

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image about yourself for career purposes used to be easy. Now the internet is creating its own world—a virtual world—that makes it tougher to maintain a high quality individual image, one that always ensures that you look good. Problem is, in all likelihood there are things posted online about you that may be making you look bad, or worse yet, that could even devastate your career, even if these postings are only affiliated to you, or were put there by someone other than yourself. The main reason that you need to be concerned about such possibly intimidating evidence is that others in your career arena may find this information distasteful, incriminating, and unprofessional—and then use it against you. The wrong kind of information—whether written or graphic— REATING THE RIGHT

Patrick B. Ropella President, Ropella Patrick B. Ropella is president & CEO of Ropella, the leading executive search and consulting firm specializing in the chemical and consumer products industries. Ropella grows great companies through executive search, leadership transformation and organizational improvement. For more information, visit www.Ropella.com or call (850) 983-4777.

His new book, The Right Hire - How to Master the Art of SMART Talent Management, is available at www.Ropella.com/therighthire

46 • happi

could cause you to be fired, prevent you from being promoted, or destroy your career altogether. The only way you can be prepared for it is to know what is posted out there about you and what is out there that may affect you in some negative way. You need to also be aware that the amount of information about you is always growing, too, especially if you use social media such as Facebook, LinkedIn, Twitter and blogs. So regular internet health checkups should become an important part of life, just as important as your annual medical checkup, as what you don’t know is being posted about you on the internet can be very unhealthy jobwise. In a recent study by Harris Interactive for CareerBuilder.com, 45% of employers pre-screened candidates by looking at the candidates’ social networks. This was happi.com

Do you know what a potential employer can find out about you online?

more than twice the number from the year before. The same survey of more than 2,600 managers, found that as many as 35% did not hire someone based on the information they found from those networks. Moreover, 22% of supervisors checked up on their employees through the same social networks. Using Google to look for your name can also be very revealing to a potential employer who may follow individual breadcrumb trails to learn what others are saying about you on the internet. December 2011

Human Capital Management

It is extremely important that you know what a hiring manager, a HR person or your bosses will find out about you on the internet, especially if you are looking to change jobs, get a promotion or enter into a new career field. It really is not that uncommon for company staff members to regularly search online to discover what is being said about their company, a manager or other employees. You can be sure that if it is negative then someone is going to be affected by it, whether or not the information is true. The Harris Interactive survey listed some reasons as to why employers chose not to hire a candidate after searching for information online. They reported that the primary reason for not hiring (53%) was that the pictures or comments were inappropriate. Another 44% found pictures or information related to drinking or using illegal drugs. Thirty-five percent said they found the candidate bad-mouthing a previous employer. Others found things like candidates who had poor communication skills, lied about their own qualifications or shared what was considered to be confidential information from a previous company. And these were just the findings based on the candidate’s own postings. Imagine what more they would have to consider if they saw what others were saying about you.

Search Yourself In order to discover what there is online about you, it will be necessary to take some time to do it right, and to be thorough about it. Here are some things that you need to do in your searches. Use your real name in searches, along with any nicknames that others use when referring to you. Check your maiden name, too, along with any aliases. There may be things you posted years ago that you had forgotten all about—remember that party when you turned 16—or that Spring Break? Now imagine all the pictures of you taken by others tagged with your name on them. Use multiple search engines such as December 2011

Google, Yahoo, Bing, Ask and Dogpile. They really do use different algorithms and will often produce different results. Use variables with your search. This could include a fellow employee or friend’s name with yours, your name with your current or past company or affiliation’s name. You will probably be surprised at the different results you will get if you try creative search strings. Find out what is being said about people with your same name. While it may not be you—others may not know that it is not you. You must be aware of what is being said, nevertheless, and actually read the web pages. If there is a reference to some kind of undesirable or illegal activity, you should be prepared to offer an explanation that proves it is not you. Remember that a potential employer may not know what you look like.

Broaden Your Search It is quite possible that the main search engines will not bring up every occurrence of your name. This will mean that you need to perform individualized searches to see what may be there. The most common places where changes occur daily are Facebook, LinkedIn, MySpace, Twitter and blog sites. Perform checks for pictures or videos on places like Google Images, YouTube and more. Many things online can affect how others perceive you. Unfortunately, many of those things you will not be able to change. The good news, however, is that there is a lot you can do to make sure that a possible employer finds the good things – the things that you want them to find. Here are some things you can do to market yourself in a good light. Close down any social sites that you are not using or keeping up. Remove pictures or comments that will cast you in a negative light or make you appear less than professional. Erase old resumes that are not current or do not have information that will do you justice. Make sure that the privacy settings happi.com

on Facebook will prevent the public from viewing your pictures and content. Using a nickname will also help, instead of using your real name. Be careful whom you friend. You may even want to pay for a background check through providers such as Radaris. This will let you know about things that may cause trouble. And there are even services that will offer to help you clean out derogatory information and postings, but always remember “buyer beware.” Don’t pay for these services just because they promise—seek proof of their success first. Even on its own blog, Google recommends that you get proactive about your own online reputation. They advise you to do this three ways: by removing bad publicity (contact webmasters for material you do not control); think twice about anything you do post; and by creating enough good content about you that will enable the search engines to find more good content than bad. Finally, learn more about the Deepnet—where some surprisingly real deep secrets about you can be found. For more information about this, see the article by Money.CNN.com called “Employers may do creepy web searches about you.” It is sure to be a real eye opener. •

Resources The NewYork Times: More Employers Use Social Networks to Check Out Applicants http://bits.blogs.nytimes.com Career Builder: Forty-five Percent of Employers Use Social Networking Sites to Research Job Candidates, CareerBuilder Survey Finds www.careerbuilder.com Google: Managing your reputation through search results http://googleblog.blogspot.com Money.CNN: Employers may do creepy web searches about you http://money.cnn.com happi • 47

Anti-Aging & Cosmeceutical Corner

THE TRUTH ABOUT TELOMERES

A

NTI-AGING

NOW represents the largest segment of the skin care market, accounting for about 40% of the roughly $2 billion in skin care sales in the US last year. In her presentation at Supplyside West in Las Vegas, Amy Ziegler of Mintel International said that manufacturers must target older consumers and find ways to keep them engaged in the category longer—one way to do that is to create products that actually work! In 2009, three US scientists won the Nobel Prize in Medicine for illuminating the mysteries of telomerase. According to one theory, telomere shortening plays a major role in the aging process. This column will briefly review this theory and clarify how the skin aging process begins at the cellular level within the DNA. Telomere biology has become an important topic in the anti-aging research. Telomere length is currently being studied as an independent predictor of mortality and morbidity in humans. Telomeres are crucial to the life of the cell. In order to

Can telomerase-based therapies be an effective tool to reverse the signs of aging?

delay the onset of senescence, protective active ingredients are used. Our body is made up of over a trillion cells. Each cell has 46 chromosomes and each chromosome has two ends, each with its own telomere. Telomeres are the “clocks” that determine life spans in humans. Their role is to preserve the integrity of the information encoded in chromosomes during the process of cell division.

A Cause of Aging Navin M. Geria VP-R&D SpaDermaceuticals Navin M. Geria is vice president of research and development for SpaDermaceuticals, Martinsville, NJ. He has more than 30 years of experience in the personal care industry and was previously with Pfizer, Warner-Lambert, Schick, Bristol-Myers and, most recently, LeDerma Consumer Products Laboratories. He has earned over 15 US patents, has been published in cosmetic trade magazines and has been both a speaker and moderator at cosmetic industry events. E-mail: [email protected]

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Telomere shortening is considered to be one of the main mechanisms of intrinsic aging. Cellular aging and telomere shortening essentially involve an overloading of free radicals resulting in increased oxidative stress resulting in telomere shortening, diminished antioxidant defenses and mitochondrial damage. Each time a cell undergoes the process of DNA replication before cell division, it loses several telomeres, which get shorter during division, eventually becoming so short, the cell can no longer divide, triggering cell aging. Scientists have noticed that after 50 or 60 cell replications, the telomeres become too short for reliable happi.com

chromosome duplication resulting in the cell’s eventual death known as senescence. It marks the end of the aging process and while there is no exact definition, it is generally associated with the beginning of a decrease in cell multiplication rates, lower protein synthesis and higher cell death rate. This limit is called the Hayflick limit (after the scientist who discovered it).This gradual telomere shortening occurs over a period of time and results in cellular aging. When a cell divides, enzymes that duplicate the chromosome and its DNA can only produce a slightly shorter chromosome, with a little bit missing from each end. The telomeres become a bit shorter in the daughter cells, but this is inconsequential, because all genetic information is preserved. They keep the ends of various chromosomes in the cell from accidentally becoming attached to each other, keep them protected, thus ensuring the integrity of DNA. Telomere length is a marker of biological age.This age reflects the impact of genetic and environmental factors over the individual’s lifetime and the longer telomere length reflects a younger biological life. December 2011

Anti-Aging & Cosmeceutical Corner

Breakthrough Research

provides evidence that age reversal may become a reality. The experiment essentially focused on telomerase, an enzyme that makes small units of DNA seal the tips of chromosomes. By reactivating telomerase, they rejuvenated worn out organs in mice that were the equivalent biological age to

Telomerase is an enzyme in the cell nucleus that acts on the telomeres to repair or lengthen them by adding DNA sequences. A breakthrough Nobel Prize winning discovery, published in the Nov. 28, 2010 edition of the scientific journal Nature,

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80-year-old humans. One month later, the treated mice showed surprising signs of rejuvenation. Overall, their telomeres had lengthened and the levels of telomerase had increased. These effects, in turn, also awakened their dormant brain stem cells, producing new neurons. Additionally the spleen, testes and brain grew in size too. The researchers concluded that the reversal of age-related decline seen in the animals justify further exploration of telomere rejuvenation strategies for age-associated diseases. As people age, low levels of telomerase are linked to the erosion of telomeres. Researchers are using telomerase enzyme in treating chromosomes to lengthen telomeres in order to prevent further aging or even to reverse aging. Telomerase activation in aged or chronically stressed normal cells was shown to slow or reverse telomere shortening, increase its replicative capacity and restore or improve cellular function in order to prevent aging and increase lifespan. It is not clear exactly how stress affects telomeres, but emotional stress along with oxidative stress speed up the shortening of the telomeres.All along telomerase helps build and maintain telomeres in immune cells.

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happi.com

December 2011

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Anti-Aging & Cosmeceutical Corner

repair products appear in the market place. They are said to maintain and/or elongate telomere length and thus the lifespan of cells, by promoting the skin’s natural protection and repair factors that deal with anti-stress, detoxification and DNA repair.

Will skin creams one day reverse the aging process and not just reduce the signs of aging?

Impact on Aging How quickly we age is not just a function of genetic disposition, but also how we avoid the factors that tend to accelerate the aging.Youthful aging could be a direct result of cellular performance and the role of telomeres in cell health. Ultimately it is the weaker cell physiology that is at the heart of all skin dysfunctions such as fine lines, wrinkles, loss of tone, age spots, redness, dry skin, dilated pores and dullness. The cells have prematurely entered a presenescence phase that is compounded by

subsequent successive accumulation of unrepaired DNA damages that are less protected by their telomeres over time. This assertion is further confirmed in a recent New York Times article,“Prospect of delaying aging ills is raised in cell study of mice.”According to the article, published on Nov. 3, 2011, senescent cells accumu-

By Solabia BIOTECHNOLOGY

FINE CHEMISTRY

late in aging tissues such as arthritic knees, cataracts and the plaque that may line elderly arteries. The cells secrete agents that stimulate the immune system and cause low-level inflammation. Until now, there has been no way to tell if the presence of cells is good, bad or indifferent. The answer turns out to be that the cells hasten aging in the tissues in which they accumulate. Although the Nobel Prize research finding is compelling, it still remains to be seen whether this approach could slow the signs of aging in people. There is, some evidence that telomerase favors tumorigenesis and so telomerasebased products may foster cancer. Also not much is known about efficacy and longterm safety of telomerase-based products and no one knows why or what impact that has on longevity and aging. •

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WEB SHOWCASE A special advertising section featuring the internet home pages of household and personal care product-related companies from around the world. To receive more information on these companies, visit their websites directly.

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AMA Laboratories

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54 • happi

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December 2011

WEB SHOWCASE Micro Powders, Inc.

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Sabinsa

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December 2011

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Searching for Answers The household cleaning product sector remains in the doldrums as consumers opt for low-priced options and marketers try to combat both rising raw material costs and retail price wars. Tom Branna • Editorial Director

A

FTER YEARS OF slugging growth, sales in the household cleaning category began to slump as consumers searched for bargains among the raft of sprays and spritzes out there. Compounding the problem, say industry experts, is a lack of innovation and rising raw material costs. “Two-thousand eleven is shaping up to be a very challenging year due to the weaker than expected consumer demand, higher than expected commodity prices and continued price wars,” observed James Craigie, president and CEO, Church & Dwight. What’s worse, most industry experts say that while costs may seem to have stabilized a bit, they are projecting raw material prices to continue to rise into 2012. “We think there is stabilization (but) we see a slight increase this year and next,”said Kaspar Rorsted, CEO, Henkel. With raw material price volatility the norm these days, driven in part by currency fluctuation, Procter & Gamble executives say that they are determined to find alternatives as oil prices topped $100 a barrel again at presstime. “We’re working very hard to find substitutes for raw materials that have volatility in price. Not that we would move to the substitute wholesale, but what we want to do is have the ability to replace materials that spike in price,” Robert A. MacDonald, chairman, president and CEO of P&G told analysts in a conference call.“A lot of those PhDs that we have are working to find substitutes for oil-based chemicals and other chemicals, which are not renewable. We want to get to 100% use of renewable ingredients for our products, and we’re working very hard on that. So over time, you’re going to see a dislocation between the price of oil and our cost of goods sold.”

Sales Slip in Most Categories Add to all that the growing lack of product loyalty from consumers who have come to rely on deep discounts before making their household care purchases. These on-going pressures come at a time when sales of houseDecember 2011

hold disinfectants, cleansers and related products are slipping in the US. According to Euromonitor International, US sales of household cleaners fell 1% last year to $9.7 billion (retail). In contrast, global sales rose 5.5% to $62.0 billion. Taking a closer look at the US household cleaning market, sales fell 1.87% to $1.44 billion in supermarkets, drugstores and mass merchandisers, excluding Walmart, Club store or gas/convenience stores for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 2, 2011. Within the biggest product segment, all-purpose cleaners and disinfectants, sales fell 2.38% to $377 million (see chart on p.58), according to SymphonyIRI. To pull itself out of the doldrums in the US and get growing again, Bill Schmitz, an analyst with Deutsche Bank, said the industry needs discontinuous innovation.

Innovators Wanted “Retailers want category growth, faster turns and higher margins,” he told attendees at Cleaning Products 2011.“Promotions win innings, [but] innovation and advertising win ballgames and championships.” According to Schmitz, marketers can’t afford to ignore megatrends, such as convenience, sustainability, wellness and multiculturalism. Indeed, according to the SymphonyIRI data, while other all-purpose cleaner brands were losing share, Method’s sales jumped 32% and sales of Mrs. Meyer’s surged nearly 26%, both brands appeal to environmentally-conscious consumers. Green brands aside, Schmitz cited Reckitt Benckiser (RB) as one of the few players in the home care space that has done a good job when it comes to discontinuous innovation. “Reckitt forced consumers to trade up in the UK,”he asserted. “A point of growth is always better than a point of margin—especially given current valuations.” A few of RB’s innovations in 2011 include Air Wick 100% natural propellant spray and Freshmatic Odor Detect, which provides an instant boost of freshness when odor is detected. Harpic Max,

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• Household Cleaners

an in-the-bowl rim block, cleans above and below the water line and provides continuous fragrance for up to four weeks. Finally, Resolve QuicknClean carpet cleaning system offers deep cleaning in a convenient all-inclusive kit. Although Schmitz is high on RB, other household product marketers insist that they have their own growth strategies built around innovation. In its fiscal first quarter, which concluded Sept. 30, Clorox reported that home care sales and market share rose behind higher shipments of Clorox disinfecting products, which were driven by stronger merchandise and support for the back-to-school and cold-and-flu seasons. “We also saw growth behind innovations like our new bleach foamer spray and new Liquid-Plumr Double Impact. Gains in Home Care were more than offset by lower shipments of Clorox laundry additives, driven by continuing weak category trends and recent pricing actions,”explained Lawrence S. Peiros, chief operating officer and executive vice president. Peiros told analysts that Clorox’s home care business is in very good shape, with expanding volume and market share. At the same time, Clorox reported another good quarter on disinfecting wipes, as well as other disinfecting products. Henkel executives, too, had a strong quarter, as laundry and home care sales rose 3.8% on price increases. Sales rose in Eastern Europe, Africa/Middle East and Latin America. The Africa/Middle East region continued its recovery following the political upheavals, contributing to organic expansion with a high single-digit growth rate. Sales in North America increased despite a further contraction in the market. An improvement in sales was also achieved in Western Europe, due particularly to continuing strong growth in Germany. This positive sales performance in generally declining markets led to a further increase in Henkel’s global market share. “The Eurozone is turbulent, the US is weak and emerging mar-

kets are sluggish. Despite the challenging environment we had a great quarter,”noted Rorsted, who said Henkel was able to push through price increases thanks to its balanced portfolio and very global footprint. “Through innovation and increased market share we are able to increase prices,”he insisted. Some of the most recent innovations from Henkel have come from within the fabric care sector, and include Purex Triple Action, which provides improved whitening (North America); Dixan Super Dosi, a pre-dosed liquid heavy duty detergent capsule that delivers cleanliness and freshness (Italy) and Pril 3X Action, a new triple action dishwashing liquid that is rolling out globally. It boasts high degreasing power and effectively neutralizes unpleasant food odors.

Windex Mini Is a Big Deal More than a year ago, SC Johnson chairman and CEO Fisk Johnson said US consumers would never change their habits to accommodate green products. But maybe, just maybe, consumer attitudes are changing. Earlier this year, SCJ began testing Windex Mini, a concentrated product that requires 90% less plastic than a standard 26floz trigger bottle and avoids shipping nearly 1.5lbs of water. In its first 30 days of online sales, SCJ filled more Windex Mini online orders than any other Windex product. Sales of Windex Mini may be driven by the consumer’s interest in doing the next right thing when it comes to the environment. In October, SC Johnson and GfK Roper Consulting released a study that found 75% of American consumers say they feel good when they take steps to help the environment. “It is empowering to see the dramatic shifts in behavior change and to gain greater insight into ties of consumer influence,” said Johnson.“Refilling with a concentrate is an example of a very small behavior change that could make a real difference in minimizing

Weak Demand for Household Cleaners Sales of household cleaners dipped nearly 2% for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 2, 2011, according to SymphonyIRI Group, a Chicago-based market research firm. Results below are for food, drug and mass merchandisers (excluding Walmart, club stores and gas/c-stores).

TOTAL US - F/D/Mx (Supermarkets, Drugstores and Mass Merchandise Outlets excluding Walmart)

CATEGORY - HOUSEHOLD CLEANERS ABRASIVE TUB/TILE CLEANER ALL PURPOSE CLEANER/DISINFECTANT CHIMNEY CLEANER/SOOT REMOVER DRAIN CLEANER GLASS CLEANER/AMMONIA LIME/RUST REMOVER NONABRASIVE TUB/TILE CLEANER OVEN/APPLIANCE CLEANER/DEGREASER SPECIALTY CLEANER/POLISH SPRAY DISINFECTANT TOILET BOWL CLEANER/DEODORIZER 58 • happi

Dollar Sales

$1,447,387,000 $81,014,690 $376,928,400 $754 $152,946,000 $133,286,800 $22,777,680 $232,485,900 $73,428,700 $37,140,780 $97,816,510 $239,560,600

Dollar Sales % Chg YAgo (1.87) (3.24) (2.38) (79.02) (0.74) (0.88) 6.02 (5.43) 15.31 2.25 (9.29) (0.76)

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Unit Sales

481,186,700 53,817,970 140,103,100 178 30,059,100 47,715,490 4,857,815 69,078,900 16,000,660 8,783,572 22,418,440 88,351,500

Unit Sales % Chg YAgo (3.13) (4.37) (3.69) (65.71) (0.73) (2.73) 3.74 (4.70) 8.48 2.49 (10.41) (1.98)

Avg Price Per Unit $3.01 $1.51 $2.69 $4.24 $5.09 $2.79 $4.69 $3.37 $4.59 $4.23 $4.36 $2.71

Avg Price Per Unit Chg YAgo $0.04 $0.02 $0.04 $(2.69) $(0.00) $0.05 $0.10 $(0.03) $0.27 $(0.01) $0.05 $0.03 December 2011

Household Cleaners

waste. But many people don’t want the inconvenience. We want to crack the code and figure out what it would take to make concentrated refills an accepted—even demanded—choice.” It may not be all that innovative, but P&G has captured the popular scent from one of its laundry brands in new Mr. Clean Multi-Surfaces Spray Cleaner with Gain Scent. The 32oz all-purpose cleaner removes grease and dirt from counters, stovetops and other kitchen appliances.

Innovative and Sustainable

•

rather than printed its Coke cans? Think of all the savings from ink reduction? Five, whatever the idea, it must be flexible enough to evolve with the changing sustainability landscape. Six, inject some energy into sustainability by taking a team approach to the issue; Seven, keep renovating to maintain green consumers. According to Monaghan, where there is sustainability maturity, companies must keep feeding the pipeline with products that meet needs, such as Bic’s launch of disposable razors and pens that contain bioplastic. Eight, sustainability needn’t stifle innovation. Monaghan noted that renewable and reusable paper is often viewed as being boring. But Kleenex broke through the barrier with the launch of its Slice of Summer tissue boxes that denotes fresh fruit. Finally, lock onto future leaders by encouraging others to submit their big ideas. One of those big ideas, said Monaghan, is Xeros Ltd., which is focused on the development of“virtually waterless” laundry cleaning. “When needs, technology and sustainability synergize, the results can be astounding,”insisted Monaghan. According to research by The Shelton Group, 66.6% of consumers are searching for greener household cleaning products. That percentage is higher than paper products (65.7%), laundry detergent (64.8%), and even personal care products (53.9%). But

At the Cleaning Products 2011 conference, Robert Monaghan, director at Air Innovations, suggested that innovation is easy…it’s sustainability that’s so hard. With that in mind, the speaker offered several ways to develop eco-innovations. He explained that the most effective means of innovating is to connect with other activities around the world and adapt them to suit your needs. “Connecting reduces resources, cost, risk, lead times and increases likelihood of success,”said Monaghan. But first, a company must understand the consumer landscape, which is filled with consumer types ranging from Behavioral Green (those who buy only with a neutral or positive impact) to True Brown (those who ignore environmental issues and are cynical about brands and others who do care). Next, marketers must understand that sustainability is not a marketing fundamental. Products Need vegetable oil for must be promoted for their benefit, convenience and value—kinder to the environment is a tertiary benefit. Three, there is no need to be perfect, as sustainability is an evolutionary process. Four, create a culture with bigger what ifs? For over thirty-five years, For example, what if Coca-Cola embossed, Alnor has been the leading U.S.

household and beauty products?

The answer is Alnor.

Hear from Top CEOs at ACI’s Annual Meeting • The American Cleaning Institute will hold its annual meeting and industry convention Jan. 30-Feb. 4 at Grand Lakes Orlando, FL. This year’s event will include a CEO panel featuring Jeffrey Ansell of The Sun Products Corporation and Bob McDonald of The Procter & Gamble Corporation. The ACI annual meeting and convention will include networking opportunities such as the president’s opening reception and ACI networking bar. Last year, nearly 700 executives from 140 companies and 24 countries attended the event. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

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• Household Cleaners

Nobody loves to clean, but marketers need to find a way to make the tasks more enjoyable for consumers.

these searchers won’t become buyers if marketers fail to connect to personal values and afterward, keeping them motivated. “Twenty-three percent of green product buyers have been disappointed by their purchases and 12.9% were disappointed by home cleaning products,” she said. The biggest complaints were that the product didn’t clean well and the user wasn’t confident that it killed germs,”said Suzanne Shelton, CEO, Shelton Group. What green home cleaning products were they most dissatisfied with? All-purpose spray cleaners drew the biggest complaints, with 46.1% of dissatisfied buyers voicing their displeasure.That percentage was well ahead of the No. 2 category, bathroom tub and shower cleaner, at 26.0%. Still, according to Shelton’s data, 48% were likely to try another green home cleaning product. “As you market to the mainstream consumer, remember this: it’s not about the planet,”she warned.“Price and performance have to be the same or better than conventional products.”

The Cost of Poor Quality The most innovative ideas can fair poorly and end up being costly for the companies that try to implement them. According to Lloyd Moberg of Church & Dwight, poor quality can cost as much as 1525% of sales. In contrast, a world-class operation loses less than 1% of sales to poor quality. While most executives are familiar with visible costs such as rejects, warranty, inspection, recoding and rework, it is the hidden costs such as lost customer loyalty and sales, late delivery, excessive inventory and material orders, and long cycles that can be most damaging for a household product company. “Most companies don’t see the big picture,”Moberg told the audience at Cleaning Products 2011.“They look at rejects and re60 • happi

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December 2011

Household Cleaners

work costs, but they should also include costs associated with excess inventory, lateness—the non-traditional parts of quality.” Moberg noted that in order to solve these problems it is critical to understand customers’needs. Once those needs have been identified, process maps must be drawn up to identify the complexity of the process and to communicate the focus of problemsolving. He described process maps as living documents that must be changed as the process is changed. “They represent what is currently happening, not what you think is happening,”he explained.“They should be created by people who are closest to the process.” Once the process is fully understood, data is collected—after all, you can’t improve what you don’t measure. From there, a strategic program can be developed to understand why the quality is lacking. After marketers have created innovative products that can be duplicated again and again, they should make sure that their supply chain systems are just as effective. Lisa Mitchell of Henkel told Cleaning Products 2011 attendees that monthly supply chain updates won’t work in the consumer goods environment. Instead, they demand weekly and daily updates, and even then, estimates aren’t very accurate. “I go to work every day knowing that I am going to be wrong,”joked Mitchell. Henkel runs programs such as SAP AG’s Advanced Planner and Optimizer, but she observed that there haven’t been any real advances in supply chain management for 10 years or so, because of issues such as lower consumer loyalty and shorter life cycles. As a result, Henkel struggled to meet high demand for its new Purex Crystal Fabric Softener. Another tool is Electronic Prediction Markets (EPM), which was created for the purpose of making predictions. EPM may be particularly useful in predicting new product success.

•

But regardless of what system is used to improve supply chain efficiency, Mitchell urged suppliers to use the same systems as their customers to ensure accuracy. “The answer isn’t always more inventory,”she added.

Finding the Money Understanding the consumer’s willingness to spend is critical in today’s precarious economies in developed markets, according to P&G’s McDonald, who said that in terms of consumer spending patterns, the market remains as it did in 2008. “In the developed markets, you have a bifurcation, you have on the high end, people with their incomes continuing to expand, growing very strongly and continuing to spend on premium products,” he explained.“Innovation is very attractive to these people.” But at the other end of the spectrum, where people are unemployed or seeking employment, they continue to try to find ways to cope by shifting the channel or shifting the brand. “That’s one of the reasons it’s so important for us to have a vertical portfolio of brands,”added MacDonald. Ah, so there’s the secret—create effective, affordable cleaning solutions that consumers trust and return to time and again.•

Be Seen in Singapore! • The World Conference on Fabric

and Home Care will be held Oct. 29-31, 2012 in Singapore. Building on the themes of the last conference, held in 2010 in Montreux, Singapore will feature keynote presentations from the CEOs of Procter & Gamble, Unilever and Kao. In addition, the conference will include presentations on balancing shifting market dynamics, resource management, product performance, environmental responsibility and revolutionary products. More info: (217) 359-2344, Email: [email protected] December 2011

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FINDING The Green Being green isn’t so black and white these days. But figuring out how to incorporate its principles will benefit your company in the long run. Christine Esposito • Associate Editor

W

“GREEN” started to trickle into the mainstream, it was easy for stakeholders to get carried away by imagining a world where everyone would drive their electric/gas hybrids (or ride a bicycle) to the store to buy their laundry detergent made with renewable surfactants and their favorite organic shampoo or deodorant in biodegradable packaging. It seemed as if the entire household and personal care market was going green—and if your company wasn’t on board, it would be left behind. That hasn’t happened, exactly—but it has been impossible to ignore how quickly personal care and household products with a natural, organic or green slant made inroads into major retailers and enjoyed a steady ascent in revenues. And while a tough economy has tempered the fast-paced growth once enjoyed in many sectors, there’s a more pressing fact HEN THE IDEA OF

A Guide to Closing the “Green Gap” In its “Mainstream Green: Moving sustainability from niche to normal” report, Ogilvy Earth’s offers 12 recommendations on how to close the green gap. Here are some of those ideas: Make it normal As marketers, our predominant instincts in the sustainability space have been to market green products as cool or different and to confer early adopter status on those enlightened consumers who join in, helping them stand apart from the masses. The great green middle isn’t looking for things to set it apart from everyone else. It wants to fit in. Make it personal Ask not what consumers can do for sustainability; ask what sustainability can do for consumers—and then show them. OgilvyEarth maintains that there must be a shift in sustainability marketing from polar

that confronts the“green”market today: not every consumer is a hard-core greenie—and therein lies the problem. According to OgilvyEarth, a global sustainability practice that helps brands harness the power of sustainability through strategic planning and communications, 79% of Americans characterize themselves as“somewhere in the middle”when it comes to living a green or sustainable lifestyle. They aren’t on either fringe of the green spectrum; neither fanatics or non-believers. Consumers for the most part say they care about sustainability and want to make ecologically friendly choices, but they don’t always follow through with their actions—or more importantly for CPG companies, with their purchases. OgilvyEarth labels that situation the“green gap.”And the firm insists closing that divide is a “necessary step if we are to create a sustainable society.”(For more on how to close the green gap, see side bar below.)

bears to people. Messages that are personal resonate more deeply with people than messages that are abstract, lofty and remote. Create better defaults If green is the default, people don’t have to decide to be green. Being green often means being faced with complex choices and trade-offs in what often becomes an exhausting effort to do the right thing. What if you make it normal by making the better choice the default? Sometimes the best thing to do in the sustainability space is to remove the burden of complex choices from our overburdened consumers. Eliminate the sustainability tax Sin tax is one thing, but consumers shouldn’t have to pay a tax for their virtuous behavior. Governments use taxes to change behavior; they want fewer people to smoke, they put a hefty tax on smoking. In the green products market...we’re taxing people’s virtuous behavior. The continued on p.64

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• Green Market

One compounding issue remains the confusion caused by greenwashing companies who continue to tout claims that take advantage of consumers’ heightened awareness of words such as natural and organic. While many natural cosmetics manufacturers insist that their products are green, Organic Monitor research has revealed that the reality is very different from perception. Its Natural Cosmetics Brand Assessment report analyzed the ingredient composition of cosmetic products of more than 50 brands that make natural and/or organic claims—and not all fared well. According to Organic Monitor, some were brandishing their skin care products as organic just because the formulations contained organic essential oils. Others were putting organic certification logos on product packaging because one major ingredient was certified. Most were making natural claims just because some ingredients were natural. It results in confusion for consumers who are left to navigate and decipher what matters and what’s reality among a slew of labels and claims, according to industry observers. “In the US, so many brands were jumping on bandwagon just by making claims; the problem still persists in the US,”said Amarjit Sahoata, managing director of Organic Monitor. But he insisted that the US market is making some headway. “More and more companies are reformulating their products to substantiate those claims. Part of that is due to lawsuits and rehigh prices of many of the greener products on store shelves suggests that we are trying to limit or discourage more sustainable choices. Don’t stop innovating. Make better stuff High performing sustainable choices are key for mass adoption. Consumers are unwilling to sacrifice performance for sustainability. For some marketers, the challenge of overcoming the performance barrier, real or perceived, will come easily. In some cases, sustainability has ridden on the backs of credible brands. But borrowing on brand credibility isn’t always enough. Thanks to a long history of premium pricing for green, the bar for sustainable products is higher. It’s not enough to perform just as well; products have to perform better. Lose the crunch Just because a product is green doesn’t mean it must be packaged in burlap. We need to ditch the crunch factor and liberate ourselves from the stereotypes. And the best way to do it may be not to mention the “G” word at all. Communication should embrace the fact that sustainability is a dealmaker, not a deal-breaker, for the mainstream consumer.

64 • happi

tailers like Whole Foods,” Sahoata said.“Consumers are wising up.” Stakeholders like Sahoata and others say by adopting natural and organic standards, formulators have a clear list of permitted and prohibited ingredients and processes—and that builds consumer trust. Today, US marketers have choices ranging from the Natural Products Association (NPA) and ANSI/NSF standards to the EPA’s Design for the Environment (DfE), in addition to those more prevalent in Europe, such as Ecocert and Natrue. Each sees a variety of benefits for companies who adopt their specific standards and carry their label. “By achieving certification under the NPA Natural Seal, manufacturers help consumers cut through the confusion about what it means to be a truly natural product,”said Cara Welch,VP of scientific and regulatory affairs at NPA.“The Natural Seal also helps the natural products industry stand out in the marketplace. The first and only natural certification in the US, NPA developed the science-based Natural Seal with a team of manufacturers, suppliers and retailers.” So far, NPA has earned the support of more than 45 companies, both large and small, according to Welch. “NPA is the most credible, most prestigious certifier of natural products and ingredients…the bottom line is that brands certified by NPA know the value that the Natural Seal brings to an increasThere are lessons to be learned from Nike’s approach with the eco-minded Air Jordan XX3.

Turn eco-friendly into male ego-friendly Girly green is not a sustainable proposition for the manly man. Carry a tote, give up your 4WD truck, wear hemp t-shirts, compost…It’s true that the everyday domestic choices we need to make in favor of sustainability do not make the NASCAR fan’s heart race. Make it tangible Sustainability is harder to follow when you can’t see the trail. If the carbon footprint calculation isn’t easy even for scientists, then what should we expect from consumers at the point-of-sale? We need to simplify mental accounting and translate the murky benefits of sustainability into something immediate and concrete. Tap into hedonism over altruism The green space can seem full of self-righteous killjoy moments and people. Help consumers see all the fun they can have on the green side of life. Driving behavior change doesn’t have to be complicated. Humans respond strongly to a few common motivators—most notable pleasure and fun. More info: www.ogilvyearth.com

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December 2011

How would you know if you could always be a part of his life? Keep tomorrow in mind in all that we do today. At Emery Oleochemicals, we take great pride in being one of the world’s largest natural-based chemical producers that constantly strives to meet your needs better. That is why, we have added green surfactants to our range of products. Now we have an even more extensive portfolio to offer you in home and personal wellness. Together with our continuous R&T effort and vast worldwide network, we will keep our innovative solutions always within your reach.

• Green Market

ingly competitive marketplace,”she said. For personal companies trying to stake an organic claim, there’s NSF/ANSI 305, a US standard that defines labeling and marketing requirements for personal care products that are made with organic ingredients. This standard allows the “made with organic” designation for products with organic content of 70% or more that comply with all other requirements. Like the USDA National Organic Program (NOP) regulations, the NSF standard includes requirements on organic ingredients, material, process and production specifications and labeling. The NSF standard also requires that NOP certified ingredients be used. However, it allows for these organic ingredients to undergo certain chemical processes—methods considered synthetic under the NOP. Avalon Organics recently earned the NSF/ANSI 305 designation—and will have its completely reformulated line out in stores next year. Achieving the designation, which was part of a three-year process, is a sure sign that the firm wants to be a leader in the organic beauty space. (For more on Avalon’s revamped lineup, be sure to read the January 2012 issue of HAPPI.) In the household market, NPA’s Seal can be obtained for green home care products, an area EPA’s DfE program also covers, which also provides certification for products used in the I&I sector. And just last month, NSF and the American Chemical Society Green Chemistry Institute announced NSF/GCI/ANSI 355 Greener Chemicals and Processes Information Standard, which establishes standardized criteria for comparing chemicals and processes that help chemical manufacturers and their customers make greener choices.

How to Go Green But not every company is—or can be—a Dr. Bronners, Avalon Organics or Seventh Generation. Yet every brand must keep its eyes open to the bigger picture. Experts contend there are ways to incorporate some green into every business model—and that might prove to be the most lasting legacy of the green movement within the household and 66 • happi

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personal care sector. Green brand marketing consultant Marc Stoiber insists that while green is important, shifting the brand promise just for green’s sake is“brand schizophrenia.” “A bad thing,”Stoiber said,“would be for companies to radically swing their brands over to green, especially if they have built those brands on performance, beauty or luxury. Suddenly swinging around and saying‘we’re not that any more, we’re all green now,’is crazy. Smart companies realize they need to stick to their strongest brand promise and not confuse the consumer.” This, he insists, is especially true for brands painstakingly built over years. Leading brands like Nike have been around for decades, long before the idea of being green was part of their lexicon. Today, Nike is a very green company and makes a number of green shoes, including an Air Jordan model. When the marketing team in Beaverton, OR began promoting that Air Jordan XX3 in 2008, green was the last thing consumers would have heard about. That was, unless an eco-minded friend read about it on a blog somewhere and then chatted it up during his kids’ next rec basketball game. If being green is such a big deal, why did Nike keep the shoe’s eco attributes on the QT? Rather than shout it from the rooftops, the firm has taken a more stealthy approach to avoid confusing consumers who have come to associate its brand with performance, not use of water-based adhesives. Nike does promote its eco-minded principles and practices (search“Nike Considered” on the internet) but third parties (bloggers and green media) tell the eco side of the story to those who would value it most, and eventually that knowledge should trickle down to other consumers. Another closer-to-home example cited by Stoiber is Unilever. The consumer products giant had been grappling with the idea of how it could create green brands, according to Stoiber, who has worked with the firm on many occasions. Today, while the CPG giant doesn’t tout so-called “traditional “green brands, it is one of the greener companies in consumer goods, December 2011

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• Green Market

said Stoiber, pointing to its efforts at sourcing sustainable palm oil, as well as its Sustainable Living Plan. “They are building sustainability into all their products, but without shifting their brand focus,”he said.

Pathways to Green Stoiber suggests that companies should investigate the multitude of certification standards available to them, but use the criteria as guideposts. “Sustainability should be key—not because you want to put a green leaf on a bottle,”he said. Throughout the personal care and household products sector, companies are finding their own avenues to green—some via acquisition, others by product. Clorox and Colgate-Palmolive are parents to some of the most prominent green brands in their marketplaces. L’Oréal’s Garnier Fructis brand touts new Pure Clean shampoo and conditioner, which feature 92% biodegradable formulas. Henkel’s Purex Natural Elements was the first major brand in the laundry care category to receive DfE recognition. Procter & Gamble has introduced sugarcane-based packaging within its Pantene line. Zotos has wind turbines generating energy for its manufacturing plant in Geneva, NY. SC Johnson, which already sells

68 • happi

Windex in bottles made from 50% PCR, is testing Windex Mini, a concentrated refill pouch that uses 90% less plastic packaging than a traditional 26oz trigger bottle. “Smart brands are building green into their bands,”Stoiber said. He insists that sustainability is a key step in“futureproofing”your brand—especially when CPG companies are operating in an environment where citizen journalists, NGOs and social media can quickly change the tide of consumer sentiment, the prospects of punitive environmental legislation looms large and vital resources are diminishing and/or rising in cost. “If you aren’t looking up and down the supply chain for green opportunities, you’re missing out,” said Stoiber. According to Stoiber, your partners probably have ideas and practices that can green your product and add great credibility to your brand.“The trick is,”he said,“to approach them with the right questions.” And yet, there’s a darker side of the story to consider as well. “If you choose to ignore sustainability in your production, you’re closing your eyes to increasingly punitive environmental legislation and the potential wrath of stakeholders like NGOs and citizen journalists,”Stoiber said. “You ignore sustainability at your risk,”he continued.“Sustainability is smart business insurance, plain and simple.” •

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December 2011

Crowning GLORY Consumers want high-quality shampoos and conditioners to smooth and strengthen hair from the inside out.

Melissa Meisel Associate Editor

“H

AIR STYLE IS THE FINAL tip-off whether or not a woman

really knows herself,” Hubert de Givenchy told Vogue in July of 1985. Shiny, healthy tresses complete any ensemble, and are relatively easy to obtain with a fresh haircut and the right shampoo and conditioner. And, once a shopper finds a formulation that delivers, there’s a good chance she’ll come back for more when it’s time to replenish the supply. According to data from SymphonyIRI Group, a Chicago-based market research firm, shampoo and conditioner sales at FDMx outlets (excluding Walmart) topped $2.4 billion for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 2, 2011. The shampoo category increased 3.2% to $1.4 billion, with contributions from regular shampoo ($1.1 billion), dandruff shampoo ($278 million) and shampoo & conditioner “combo packs”($22 million). Meanwhile, hair conditioner and cream rinse category sales jumped 4.6% to more than $957 million. In SymphonyIRI Group’s current Times & Trends Report,“Brand Loyalty: How Understanding Brand Equity Impacts Brand Loyalty and Delivers to the Top and Bottom Line,” the firm uncovers insights into what drives consumers to seek out their preferred brands and highlights recommended strategies for winning the hearts and minds of today’s savvy, conscious shoppers. In personal care, shampoo topped brand loyalty at 65.9%—up 2.8 points over 2008, according to the company. December 2011

“Interestingly, nearly all of the categories in which brand loyalty gains were highest already have fairly high levels of brand loyalty,” said Susan Viamari, editor of Times & Trends, SymphonyIRI.“In fact, loyalty is more than 50% in nine out of 10 categories shown— a striking reminder that true loyalty can survive even prolonged economic upheaval.” Furthermore, in Mintel’s 2011 hair care report, the market research company noted that consumers increased their purchases of shampoos and conditioners with premium natural/organic formulations, as seen with Aveeno Active Naturals, Garnier Fructis Triple Nutrition, L’Oréal Hair Expertise Everstrong and Nexxus Humectress. The restaging of the popular brand Pantene also contributed to growth in the hair care aisle. Manufacturers also continue to explore the gender-specific male products with such brands as Axe and Suave for Men, both of which have garnered sales growth from 2010-11. “Consumers are looking for shampoo and conditioner that will create smoother, frizz-free hair as well as improve hair health,” notedVirginia Lee, Euromonitor International, senior research analyst, Chicago, IL.“As a result, sulfate-free shampoos have become popular with consumers as they are marketed as being better for hair; i.e., without stripping out oils and color.” Today’s consumers are also looking for short ingredient lists

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• Hair Care

“Performance naturals” continue to be in demand as a fruitful area for innovation, added Condé. These materials, such as the cassia conditioning ingredient in Pantene’s Nature Fusion collection, are derived from natural ingredients and, most importantly, actually offer a performance benefit. “The entire Nature Fusion shampoo formula was created around this ingredient so that it would efficiently and effectively strengthen hair against damage in addition to cleaning it,” she told HAPPI.“Today’s ‘performance natural’ingredients go beyond the formula—women also want more earth-friendly packaging. Pantene’s latest Nature Fusion news is the plant-based bottle made with up to 59% plant-based materials.” Shoppers are also short on time while Malibu C Color Wellness hair care products are formulated with antioxidants they are saving the Earth, so they want highto treat damaged tresses. performance, multi-purpose shampoos and conditioners that both accomplish their primary purposes Supply & Demand (cleansing/conditioning), while leaving the hair soft, frizz-free, Industry experts agree that when it comes to qualities shoppers are seeking out in shampoo and conditioners right now, it’s all shiny and ready to be styled, noted Mark Stiller, founder/CEO, It about multi-tasking. Whether it’s smoothing, hair health, a fresh Factor, Los Angeles. His shampoo and conditioner products utiscent or foamy feel, consumers want it all in their shampoo/con- lize the exclusive VaporBoost System, which combines ingredients that work together to speed up the natural process of ditioning SKUs. “The biggest benefits consumers are looking for in their daily evaporation by reducing the attraction or bond between the hair hair care are products that repair or enhance its health for beauti- shaft and water. Reducing the bond makes it easier for the water ful, manageable hair,”said Carlista M. Condé, Pantene R&D sec- molecules to escape and turn into water vapor. It Factor’s Quick Blowdry Shampoo and Conditioner duo is said to reduce blowtion head, P&G, Cincinnati. “Specifically, those that continue to be popular are shampoos dry time by up to 50%, according to Stiller. Preserving color is also a key facet to marketing shampoos and and conditioners that provide shine, a smoothing benefit, and strengthen hair against damage.There are always other additional conditioners. One of Alterna’s newest additions, the Bamboo UV+ factors that affect what women think of their products, such as fra- Color Care collection, utilizes kalahari melon as a key ingredient. grance/scent and how it feels while they are using the product, but Collected from South Africa’s Kalahari Desert, this melon extract is known for its ability to thrive in extreme conditions. According to Pantene’s approach always begins with hair health,”she noted. For example, Pantene shampoos are designed to clean hair Michael Shaun Corby, global creative director, Alterna Professional without stripping it, and Pantene conditioners offer a range of per- Haircare, Los Angeles, the company incorporated the ingredient formance from light conditioning to the most intense conditioning into its Bamboo UV+ products for its nourishing properties and its to provide solutions for the range of hair types around the world. naturally adaptive defense system that protects hair from UVA and

with an emphasis on“pure”and“natural” ingredients, added Lee. For example, the popularity of argan oils in salon hair care products such as Moroccan oil has migrated into the mass market. The new Garnier Fructis Smooth & Shine products feature argan oil and apricot oil. Shoppers’interest in the expensive and controversial Brazilian keratin treatments has also led to more shampoos and conditioners including keratin. Organix introduced an Ever Straight Brazilian Keratin Therapy line that features a sulfate and sodium chloride-free shampoo with keratin proteins, said Lee. Fruit extracts featuring exotic fruits continue to be popular. The new Nuance Salma Hayek line sold exclusively at CVS features shampoos with mamey fruit and açai extracts.

Nioxin To Debut New Thickening Treatment •Thinning hair is frequently associated with a decrease in the number of hair fibers on the head, but hair diameter also plays a significant role in hair thinning. Hair diameter can decrease as one ages and even a small loss in diameter can have a significant visual effect. Next month, P&G salon brand Nioxin will introduce DiaMax with HTX, a new leave-in, thickening treatment that has been scientifically designed and tested to increase the thickness of each hair strand for beautiful, thick-looking hair, according to the company. “As a leader in thinning hair for more than 22 years, Nioxin has a rich 72 • happi

history of offering products that effectively address multiple aspects of hair thinning and arming stylists with the tools to advise their clients,” said Reuben Carranza, CEO, P&G Salon Professional North America. “DiaMax is our answer for stylists and consumers who are looking for instant thickening results they can see.” DiaMax contains a new technology, HTX, developed by P&G Beauty Scientists combining “a skin care inspired approach for hair” with advanced research findings. HTX is a combination of caffeine, panthenol, niacinamide and dimethicone. More info: www.nioxin.com

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December 2011

• Hair Care

UVB damage to prevent color-fade. In addition to using this unique ingredient, the Bamboo UV+ products also contain rinse-resistant Color Hold UV+ technology, an innovation that allows the UV filters in the formula to remain on the hair throughout the shampooing process, according to Corby. Redken’s All Soft SKUs features both a delivery “So when it system and keratin complex that treat brittle hair. comes to the hottest ingredients, the newness and the innovation, I’d say that more is more!”he told HAPPI. Malibu C’s newest hair helpers, Color Wellness Shampoo and Color Wellness Conditioner, are designed to keep every shade looking stunning and infused with health, and they do it with an Ecocert-ingredient complex that is ripe with nature’s most potent, 100% vegan ingredients, according to the company. A Color Wellness blend of essential oils leaves a heavenly scent of sugared mango and lychee on freshly shampooed and conditioned hair. Infused with Malibu’s unique Ecocert-complex, Malibu C’s Color Wellness Shampoo owes its efficacy to a 100% vegan blend of antioxidant pro-vitamin B5, which protects against environmental toxins; organic aloe, which helps soothe an irritated scalp and retain healing moisture; and betaine, a sugar beet-derived ingredient which protects the scalp from chemical irritation. Built

A New Look for Pert Plus •A formerly famous brand is ready for its comeback. Pert Plus shampoo, introduced in 1987 as the first 2-in-1 shampoo/conditioner, is being relaunched as the simple all-family choice, according to the company. Pert Plus owners Idelle Labs tapped New York-based brand and innovation firm Beardwood&Co. to develop new packaging to communicate the brand’s promise and create instinctive appeal at the point of purchase. The new packaging captures the brand’s effortless expediency and showcases the family-friendly, hassle-free nature of using 2-in-1 shampoo/conditioner that delivers great results. “Following extensive consumer research, each component of the redesign was carefully conceived to reflect why Pert Plus is a must-buy for busy families seeking great hair without a lot of 74 • happi

to follow and support this step, Malibu C’s Color Wellness Conditioner makes use of flax-and rice-based proteins to provide an effortless, silky comb-through and swinging, healthy manageability to every strand. Meanwhile, natural UV absorbers and vitamin E help maintain hair’s moisture balance while protecting against brassiness and fading, two of the biggest barriers to maintaining the vitality of hair color.

Smooth Moves The smoothness of the hair is one of the key components that the beauty industry strives to achieve. Shine and movement is what creates the beautiful texture to the hair, noted Joey Noufal, founder, Noufal HairColor Studio,Vienna,VA. Therefore, there are a variety of rollouts this season cashing in on this craze. One of the bigger smoothing launches for the season is from Redken.The category leader introduced All Soft with Interlock Protein Network (IPN). Reformulated with Redken’s exclusive new delivery system, the IPN, and Keratin Enrich Complex, new All Soft dramatically transforms the texture of dry, brittle hair, according to the company. Argan oil-enriched shampoo and conditioner formulas restore hair’s protein, comprised of keratin, for renewed elasticity and intense softness. “Ingredients that provide strengthening, smoothing and antidandruff effects were popular in 2011,”Jaimie Mecca, R&D group leader, Redken, Clark, NJ, told HAPPI.“Argan oil and keratin exploded as a result of the trend in smoothing and strengthening services.The industry also saw increased use across all types of oils this past year, as consumers embrace the green trend and look to naturally-derived ingredients to provide smoothness and conditioning.” Joico’s latest innovation, Smooth Cure shampoo and conditioner, is said to fight frizz for up to 72 hours. This sulfate- and formaldehyde-free regimen features KeraShield Complex. “With Smooth Cure,”commented Joico International creative director Damien Carney,“there are so many options.You can diffuse

time and effort,” said Ryan Lynch, managing partner, Beardwood&Co. Central to the package revamp is a bold and modern logo to convey the brand’s benefit of “refreshingly simple.” Beardwood&Co. achieved this by vertically placing the Pert Plus name so it pops more on the shelf to capture shoppers’ attention among the crowd of shampoo products. The new design is deliberately unisex in appeal. Bright colors—blue, teal, orange, purple and light green—express the confidence and upbeat attitude of “a great hair day.” Each color represents one of the five varied Pert Plus formulas/hair types. A prominent horizontal silver bar calls out the 2-in-1 proposition in an eyecatching and premium way, according to the company. “Beardwood&Co.’s packaging nailed the simplicity positioning and our retailers and customers are loving the new look,” said Rick Cutler, director of marketing, Idelle Labs. More info: www.pertplus.com

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December 2011

TILAMAR® Fix A1000 Extra strong hold with natural feel TILAMAR® Fix F x A1000 s tyling po lymer deli ver e s outs tanding styling polymer delivers outstanding per formancce ffor or e xtra s trong ho ld w ith n atural ffeel. eel. performance extra strong hold with natural D SM Nut ritional Pr roducts, LL C DSM Nutritional Products, LLC 4 5W aterview Bou levard, P arsippany, NJ 0 7054 45 Waterview Boulevard, Parsippany, 07054 Unit ed States States off America America United Phone: +1 800 5 26 6 018 9 526 0189 +1 973 8580 FFax: ax: 973 257 257 8 580 Em ail: [email protected] webshop.dnpn [email protected] Email:

Specifically designed aerosol applications based unique Spec ificallyy de signed ffor or aer osol app lications ns it iis sb ased on a u nique advantages and proprietary propriet etary monomer composition. composition. The e adv antages of TILAMAR® for o styling styling sprays sprays has has been assessed assessed in several several hairdresser hairdresser Fixx A1000 for half-side comparison comp o arison ttests ests versus versus different different market market pr oducts where where half-side products TILAMAR® Fix F x A1000 w as ab le tto o set a new s tandard in s tyle creation creation was able standard style w ith e xtreme me h air fi bre ccross-linking. ross-linking. The non-t n-tacky ffeel eel iis se xceptional with extreme hair fibre non-tacky exceptional and rresults esults s in a hair hair style style that that al so looks looks and an nd feels feels natural. natural. also

• Hair Care

the hair, dry it naturally, blow dry and even set or curl it. No matter how the client wants to wear it, her hair is smoother and better conditioned with an incredibly luxurious texture.” Smooth Cure is ideal for all hair types, from thick and coarse, to fine and frizzy. It’s lightweight enough for the finer textures, yet effective on thicker and curlier textures. The system provides 24-hour high humidity protection and reduces frizz by 79%, according to the company. “This is a truly healthy regime,” commented Carney, “and it’s most effective when all of the products are combined synergistically. The LeaveIn Rescue Treatment is critical—it really transforms the look and the feel of the hair. And don’t underestimate the power of the shampoo and conditioner—they make the hair truly easy to style. I love the Thermal Styling Protectant—even if I’m allowing the hair to air-dry, I’ll mist strands with a few spritzes then dry, to tame the texture.The more heat I use, the more spray I’ll use—it’s lightweight so you can layer it as needed.” Other recent smoothing launches focus on exotic ingredients. Tigi Catwalk Sleek Mystique Glossing Shampoo and Conditioner feature an infusion of lychee, Japanese honeysuckle and rice bran oil to work synergistically to help smooth, defrizz and impart a brilliant shine, according to the company. And, nothing’s sweeter than Carol’s Daughter’s ChocolÄt Smoothing Collection. A three-step, sulfate-free collection designed to physically rebuild hair structure, smoothing each strand from within, the collection features keravis, a hyperactive plant protein that physically rebuilds hair by filling in lifted cuticles. Formu-

Suave’s latest innovation is Almond and Shea Butter hair care products.

P&G Spokesman Celebrated by Madame Tussauds with Coiffed Likeness •For the 2011 NFL season, Pittsburg Steeler All-Pro safety Troy Polamalu and his iconic hair are taking on a life of their own by becoming immortalized in wax. A life-sized wax figure of the Head & Shoulders spokesperson called “Legendaryous Troy,” a generously coiffed likeness crafted by the artists of Madame Tussauds, was recently unveiled in New York City. It was noted that Legendaryous Troy sports almost double the amount of hair than any other wax figure ever created to replicate Polamalu’s full and thick mane. Further adding to the excitement, Head & Shoulders has revealed that the figure will be visiting football fans during several tour stops in early 2012. Polamalu, who has been growing his hair for nearly a decade to honor his Samoan roots, is marking his third year as a spokesperson for Head & Shoulders. Legendaryous Troy will bring the sponsorship 76 • happi

lated with Amenolado Cacao sourced from Ecuador and West Africa, the replenishing shampoo gently cleanses with coconut-derived cleansers. In the conditioner, cacao extract smoothes and vegetable protein rebuilds, as sunflower seed oil creates a high-shine, lightweight moisture seal for a sleek finish. Purveyor of curl-enhancing hair care Ouidad introduced its latest novelty, Climate Control Defrizzing Shampoo and Conditioner. Inspired by the bestselling Climate Control Heat and Humidity Gel and recognized by women everywhere as the final word in frizz fighting technology, this dynamic duo is sure to create a loyal corps of frizzfree curly girls, according to the company. Both the Climate Control Defrizzing Shampoo and Conditioner contain Ouidad’s exclusive Humidity Shield Complex, which, by combining a unique blend of moisturizers that encapsulate the hair shaft, acts as a protective barrier against heat, humidity and other environmental factors, said the company. Ouidad’s Climate Control Defrizzing Shampoo has gentle cleansing agents, naturally derived from coconut and glucose, which mildly yet thoroughly cleanses the scalp of sebum, allowing the hair follicles to breathe. Climate Control Defrizzing Conditioner defies even the highest humidity, simultaneously detangling and defrizzing curls while promoting softness and shine. Blended amino acids penetrate the hair shaft and infuse strands with hydration, leaving curls smooth and manageable with superior frizz control and color protection. “We know that a lot of women have dry hair

to a new level of interactivity for fans, and fans will have the opportunity to view the figure up close as it crisscrosses the nation. Throughout the campaign, fans can suggest places he might enjoy checking out, track his travels, read his distinctive point of view via social media and register for a chance to win a trip to Super Bowl XLVI in the Legendary 7 Contest. “We are proud to kick off the third year of partnership with Troy Polamalu in the most Legendaryous way—celebrating his iconic mane as it becomes immortalized by Madame Tussauds,” said April Anslinger, brand manager of Head & Shoulders at Procter & Gamble. “With each passing year, the partnership with Troy Polamalu and the National Football League has become bolder and more humorous but most importantly, it has helped build a stronger connection with our male target and de-stigmatize that Head & Shoulders is just for dandruff.” More info: www.headandshoulders.com

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December 2011

Ajinomoto North America, Inc., Specialty Chemicals Division, 400 Kelby Street, Fort Lee, NJ 07024 (201) 292-3180 • [email protected] ©2011 Ajinomoto North America, Inc. All product names shown here are registered trademarks of Ajinomoto Co., Inc. ©2009 Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc. All product names shown here are registered trademarks of Ajinomoto Co., Inc.

• Hair Care

and struggle with this issue. In fact, Dove found that one in three women has dry hair that is frustrating to manage,” said David Rubin, marketing director, hair care, Unilever, Englewood Cliffs, NJ.“We introduced the Dove Nourishing Oil Care collection to turn dry, rough and frizzy hair into soft, smooth, shiny hair.” Hair oils are on-trend right now, and Dove Nourishing Oil Care uses a blend of almond, coconut and mineral oils that penetrates hair to nourish without weighing it down, according to Rubin. Also at Unilever, Suave Professionals Almond + Shea Butter Moisturizing Shampoo and Conditioner are infused with 100% natural almond and shea butter, ingredients known for their rich emollients, to leave hair well-nourished.

Vim and Vigor Besides smoothing wiry locks, consumers also want to increase the amount of nourishment delivered to their tresses by way of shampoo and conditioner. One way to boost hair health is with exotic natural ingredients and vitamin fortifications, as seen in a multitude of new launches in 2011. For example, Aveeno recently debuted the Living Color Collection, which is specially formulated to retain and protect color vibrancy and add shine with each wash and style, breathing new life into hair color. Developed by a team of experts including ecofriendly celebrity stylist Patrick Melville, both the shampoo and conditioner have harnessed the natural benefits of the protein-rich lupine botanical, according to the company. Also in mass, John Frieda’s Full Repair Collection is all about reversing the clock and protecting hair from further damage. The range includes Full Body Shampoo and Full Body Conditioner, both formulated with omega-rich inca inchi oil that repairs tresses. “So many women who come into the salon have absolutely destroyed their hair by over-styling, over-coloring and generally overdoing it,”said Harry Josh, John Frieda international creative consultant, NewYork. “They traumatize their hair trying to get a certain look, but then they can’t maximize it because their hair is so fried. Full Repair offers them damage control that won’t weigh their hair down, letting them style to the limit while actually reversing the damage they’ve done to date.” Said to increase the hair’s resistance to breakage by 20 times, while healing, protecting and preventing further damage, Living Proof rolled out Restore, designed to address the causes of dryness and damage, offering immediate and long-term benefits without oils and silicones, according to Jon Flint, CEO and co-founder of Living Proof, Cambridge, MA.The collection is billed as the first weightless solution that reduces the porosity of dry or damaged hair to make it look, feel and behave like virgin hair. 78 • happi

The weightless shampoo, conditioner and mask treatment are developed with PolyfluoroEster, which creates a protective layer and reduces porosity by 100%, according to the company. The Restore formulation also contains creatine, an amino-acid derivative, which contributes to smoothing; hydrolyzed wheat protein and nourishing conditioning agents to strengthen and protect; and tucuma seed butter, containing essential fatty acids, to enhance softness and shine. Meanwhile, at the salon, Matrix is making magic happen with Total Results, consisting of five complete hair care ranges—Moisture, Color Care, Sleek, Amplify and Curl—said to offer“miracles” in solving quandaries such as dry and lifeless hair, dull faded color, unruly and frizzy hair, fine and limp and frizzy uncontrollable curls. The hair experts at Davines are thinking big this season with Volu, a line of synergistic products—shampoo, conditioner and leave-in spray—that impart shine, hydration and volume with a unique blend of natural ingredients for healthy volume that lasts throughout the day, according to the company. Backed by aminoacid-rich hop extract, the revitalizing blend in theVolume Enhancing Softening Shampoo lifts residue from hair and scalp leaving hair noticeably softer, shiner and fuller all day long; while the Volume Enhancing Softening Conditioner penetrates hair with a nourishing blend of softening jojoba oil and hazelnut extract, known to revitalize the metabolic functions of scalp and hair. And natural from the inside out, Volu is housed in low-impact, foodgrade transparent plastic.

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Balanced Beauty, Inside and Out Speaking of beauty from the inside out, skin care pioneer Peter Thomas Roth is expanding his scope with the MegaRich Hair & Body Collection—a“balanced approach”to hair and skin health, according to the company. Infused with Biotin B-7 Complex, pro vitamin B5 and vitamins C and E, hair is said to become more manageable, shiny, nourished, healthier looking and more resistant to daily damage with the Mega-Rich Shampoo and Conditioner. Formulated with gentle cleansing agents and a precise cocktail of weightless moisturizers, hair is left healthy, clean, soft and nourished, according to the company.

Multi-Tasking SKUs From combo shampoo/conditioners to “all-inone” treatments, marketers are offering value with a host of new products that feature more than one function. Consider Chaz Dean, creator of the popular Wen cleansing conditioners sold on QVC. He’s back this seaChaz Dean’s Wen son with two limited edition cleansing conditioner scents at Wen. First was Fall is available in a limGinger Pumpkin, which was ited edition Winter available from September Vanilla Mint variant. December 2011

Hair this great should last.

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• Hair Care

wintertime hat head. Just a sprinkle and your hairstyle will be revived in seconds, according to the company. It is formulated with fine, tiny micro particles of aloe, kaolin tapioca starch and potato starch and is available exclusively on the network. Naturals marketer Lush is also taking a stab at this type of product with No Drought, a dry shampoo powder scented with lemon, grapefruit and lime. And finally, Philip Kingsley tapped the burgeoning baby care market with PK Baby, an“ultra mild”shampoo and body wash for daily use. Created specifically for infants and children, its easy rinse formula contains chamomile extract to soothe the scalp and amaranth protein to gently moisturize both the skin and hair. It also has a unique silky texture designed to remain on the hair during use, with less likelihood of running into eyes, according to the company.

It Factor hair care products are said to reduce blow-dry time by up to 50%.

through November; and Winter Vanilla Mint, which is available through February. The non-lathering formula contains natural astringents and a blend of botanical ingredients, according to the company. Conceived by celebrity hairstylist Dean as the ideal one-stop beauty solution and superior alternative to shampoos, the Cleansing Conditioners are said to effectively replace shampoos, conditioners, leave-in treatments and styling products in one product. Aloe vera leaf juice, chamomile extract and sunflower seed oil are just a few key ingredients in the formulation. “The trend is to create high quality, multipurpose products that do what they say they will without filling them full of harmful chemicals,”Dean told HAPPI.“Customers today don’t want six different bottles in their shower—they want to find the one product they know they can depend on and feel good about using.” In a similar concept, salon brand Cibu recently debuted Washabi, a sulfate-free 3 in 1 Conditioning Shampoo + Body Wash product. Featuring hydrolyzed soy to condition, wasabi root to kill bacteria and stimulate the scalp as well as wild mint, eucalyptus and menthol to cool and refresh the scalp, this unisex product targets the entire marketplace. Rusk is also thinking inside the box with its new W8less Multi 12-in-1 Miracle Treatment. This lightweight leave-in treatment for all hair types is said to offer 12 benefits, including those of both shampoos and conditioners. Meanwhile, Göt2b is targeting hair care consumers on the go with its Fat-tastic collection, led by Fat-tastic Dry Shampoo. This skip-a-day style saver instantly refreshes hair, so that “no shampoo” thing can be your clean little secret.The collagen-infused formula mists on and absorbs oil to completely revive and re-volumize for that freshly-washed va-va-voom. On HSN, David Evangelista rolled out Pouf as a solution to 80 • happi

A Stylish Forecast Blossoming trends in shampoos and conditioners include more of the same—advanced ingredients that deliver on a product’s claims as well as fortifying tresses for a beautiful look. “The future of shampoos and conditioners is going to be influenced by changing needs and expectations, including more multitextural hair types and a desire for longer-lasting hair styles,”said Condé of Pantene R&D.“As women live longer, they are looking for products that help them look as young as they feel. Women have many choices, so they are going to demand even higher performance from products without trade-offs. They are going to look for products that not only cover up the damage that their hair has today, but they will also look for products that initially prevent damage.” Lee of Euromonitor agreed. She told HAPPI,“With the aging of the US population, more hair care products that claim hair strengthening and/or hair loss prevention are expected.” Products and brands that can offer consumers innovation, authenticity and experience will dominate the new year, noted Mecca of Redken. “It’s not enough for products to perform, they must create a truly unique experience to make an emotional connection with the user,”she said.“The shampoos and conditioners that will continue to grow will be those that can offer a niche that speaks to the need for personalization with a focus on offering a customized approach to traditional hair care regimens.” Offering both meaningful benefits and a luxurious experience is paramount for next year, observed Stiller of It Factor. “What used to be considered a niche benefit will continue to become a given, as consumers want to have it all,” he observed. “Society is used to instant gratification so they expect more in less time—their hair is no exception.” •

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December 2011

Discover Bodylicious Hair, Discover Dimethisil HNH.

“Bodylicious” is that “look” that Dimethisil® HNH creates when easily formulated into clear shampoos and conditioners. This unique, anionic friendly, cationic silicone fluid revives hairs natural body, volume and softness. Dimethisil® HNH, INCI: Proproxytetramethyl Piperdinyl Dimethicone, is available in various viscosities and cationic strengths. When used at low levels in shampoo formulations, discover hair’s rejuvenated natural beauty. Dimethisil ® HNH is also available as a 30% solids, clear, silicone in water micro-emulsion under the Microsil® HAF trade name. Let Chemsil Silicones, Inc. transform your shampoo into something extraordinary, something “Bodylicious”. Discover Dimethisil® HNH and Microsil® HAF and experience formulating beauty. We Provide YOUR “Beautifying” Silicone Solutions.

We Provide YOUR Silicone Solutions™

Manufacturer of Specialty Silicones for Cosmetics and Personal Care 877.700.0302 • www.chemsil.com

HAIR CARE Ingredients Here is a list of new hair care ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months. For more information on products listed here, contact the supplier directly using the information provided.

Ajinomoto North America, Inc. Fort Lee, NJ Tel: (201) 292-3280 Website: www.Ajichem.com

Eldew PS-203 INCI:Phytosterol/octyldodecyl/

Website: www.ashland.com N-Hance SP-100 Conditioning Polymer INCI: Acrylamidopropyl

Kerarice INCI: Aqua, glycerin, oryza sativa

Terraquat BD INCI: Bis-(ethyl PPG-3 behen-

conditioning polymer is used as a substantive conditioning polymer in rinse-off surfactant systems, such as shampoos, to reduce tangling and improve the wet- and drycomb properties of hair after shampooing. N-Hance SP-100 is especially useful for delivering a highly conditioned feel to wet and dry hair.

(rice) seed protein, phytic acid, oryza sativa extract Suggested use levels: 0.5-5% Applications: Hair care, styling products Comments: Kerarice is a plant derived active that provides protection from hair color fading caused by UV radiation. The amino acids and peptides contained in Kerarice help to improve tensile strength and shine of hair. The antioxidant component of phytic acid of Kerarice provides protection against damage caused by sun radiation. This ingredient can be added to leave-on and rinse-off hair care formulations, as well as styling products and dyes.

ate) dimonium methosulfate (and) behenamidopropyl dimethylamine Applications: Shampoo, conditioner, leave-in treatment/conditioner, styling products Suggested use levels: 1-5% Comments: A new, patented conditioning agent that is biodegradable, that is not harmful in aquatic environments (tested utilizing method OECD 202 on Daphnia) and demonstrates similar performance to traditional conditioning agents.

Centerchem, Inc.

Keracyn INCI: Propanediol, aqua, glyc-

trimnium chloride/acrylamide copolymer

Suggested use levels:

lauroyl glutamate

0.1-0.25%

Suggested use levels: 0.2-5.0% Applications: As lubricating

Applications: Shampoo and

emollient and conditioning agent in shampoo, conditioners, etc. Comments: Eldew PS-203 delivers a great amount of lubricity to the hair. It helps repair the hair shaft.

Comments: N-Hance SP-100

Ajidew NL-50 INCI: Sodium PCA Suggested use levels: 0.5-3% Applications: As a hair conditioner and scalp moisturizer in shampoos, conditioners, styling products, mists Comments: Ajidew NL-50 delivers a smooth soft sheen to the hair shaft, while closing the cuticle and allowing ease of combing. In mists and sprays it helps to prevent hair breakage.

Amilite ACS-12 INCI: Sodium cocoyl alaninate Suggested use levels: 3-20% Applications: As a primary and secondary natural based surfactant in shampoos Comments: Amilite ACS-12 delivers good foaming and dense bubble. It is exceptionally mild to the hair and scalp and provides selective detergency in that it removes soil and sebum but leaves the intercellular lipids of the scalp intact.

Ashland Specialty Ingredients Wilmington, DE Tel: (800) 345-0447 82 • happi

body wash systems

Norwalk, CT Phone: (203) 822-9800 Email: [email protected] Website: www.centerchem.com

Keratrix INCI: Aqua, glycerin, hydrolyzed ceratonia siliqua seed extract, zea mays starch, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-7 Suggested use levels: 1-5% Applications: Hair care, styling products Comments: Keratrix is a restorative natural active for damaged and weakened hair. This ingredient increases hair resistance and elasticity, improves its barrier function, regains its integrity and strengthens its fibers. Keratrix can be added to leave-on and rinse-off hair care formulations, as well as styling products and dyes.

erin, cynara scalymus (artichoke) leaf extract Suggested use levels: 0.5-5% Applications: Hair care, styling products Comments: Keracyn is a plant derived active that preserves hair fiber integrity by acting as a protective shield. It prevents lipid oxidation and thus the opening of the cuticle scales of the hair shaft. By preserving the hair’s surface, Keracyn prevents the loss of shine in both natural and color treated hair. Keracyn can be added to leave-on and rinse-off hair care formulations, as well as styling products and dyes.

Croda Inc. Edison, NJ Tel: (732) 417-0800 Email: [email protected] Website: www.croda.com/na/pc

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Versathix INCI: PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate (and) PPG-2 hydroxyethyl cocamide (and) aqua Applications: Shampoos Suggested use levels: 0.5-10% Comments: A patented, versatile rheology modifier that provides efficient thickening in traditional, as well as sulfate free surfactant systems, coupled with sheer thinning. Neutral effect on foam and afterfeel, suitable for cold processing and excellent for use in clear systems.

DeWolf Chemical, Inc. Warwick, RI Tel: (401) 434-3515 Email: [email protected] Website: www.dewolfchem.com

Kahl Emulsion BE 820 INCI: Cera alba and copernicia cerifera cera and polysorbate-80 and sorbitan oleate Suggested use levels: 5% Applications: Hair care products (suggested: styling cremes) Comments: Kahl Emulsion BE 820 is a fine particle sized low December 2011

• Hair Care Ingredients

viscosity emulsion and natural filmformer that can be post-added without effort.

Honeywell Asensa NFF 11 INCI: Hydrolyzed corn starch Suggested use levels: 2-7% Applications: Styling gels Comments: This product is excellent for curl retention, is sustainably produced and offers aesthetically pleasing film coverage on hair shaft

Dow Personal Care

Applications: Conditioning shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers and liquid hand soaps Comments: Opulyn PQG is a highly versatile opacifier for creamy, conditioning cleansing products. This ingredient is ideally suited for systems containing cationic polymers and allows long-term stability of conditioning cleansing products.

DSM Nutritional Products

Applications: Mild conditioning

Comments: PEG-free thickening

shampoo

for sulfate-free systems. Provides stable viscosity at high temperature and offers additional hair and skin care benefits.

Comments: Highly concentrated, preservative-free, sulfate free, excellent eye and skin compatibility, improved thickenability compared to standard sulfosuccinate and APGs, good foaming proprieties—superior to lauryl glucoside.

Tego Carbomer 140 G INCI: Carbomer Suggested use levels: 1.50% Applications: Conditioning hair

Philadelphia, PA Tel: (800) 447-4369 Email: [email protected]

Parsippany NJ Tel: (800) 526-0189

gel

Email:

Website:

[email protected] Website: www.unlimited nutrition-na.dsm.com

juster and emulsion stabilizer for high viscous formulations. (e.g. clear water or alcohol based gels.) High cross-linked acrylic acid polymer.

www.dow.com/personalcare

Acudyne 1000 INCI: Acrylates/hydroxyesters acrylates copolymer

Suggested use levels: Hair gels: 2%, Pump sprays: 4%, Aerosol sprays: 4-5% (as supplied polymer) Applications: Mousse, sprays (aerosol and pump), styling gel, pomade, lotion Comments: Acudyne 1000 Hair Styling Polymer is the newest formulation-enhancing polymer developed to help formulators create hair styling sprays, mousse, styling gels and pomades that tolerate high humidity, promote hair shine and avoid flaking.

EcoSmooth Satin INCI: Ethylene/sodium acrylate copolymer

Suggested use levels:

Comments: Viscosity builder/ad-

Tilamar Fix A1000 INCI: Acrylates copolymer Suggested use levels: 3.0-5.0% Applications: Styling products in particular aerosol sprays (high and low VOC) Comments: Tilamar Fix A1000 is a solid synthetic acrylate copolymer bead that delivers outstanding performance with natural feel. This ingredient has excellent compatibility in styling sprays, particularly aerosols.

Evonik Goldschmidt Corporation

sulfate-free conditioning shampoo Comments: Outstanding thickening event for PEG-free formulations: our new rheology modifier features excellent sensory qualities as well as skin and hair conditioning performance. Easy to process and better temperature stability of viscosity, Antil SPA 80 is the perfect alternative to cocamide MEA.

Abil T Quat 60 INCI: Silicone quaternium-22 Suggested use levels: 1.3% Applications: Shampoo and in-

Rewopol SB C 55 INCI: Disodium PEG-5 l

Lake Elmo, MN Tel: (651) 221-2406 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.glenncorp.com

Opulyn PQG INCI: Ethalkonium chloride acry-

Rewopol SB C 55 INCI: Disodium PEG-5 laurylci-

late/HEMA/styrene copolymer

trate sulfosuccinate; capryl/capramidopropyl betaine Suggested use levels: 4.60%

84 • happi

Suggested use levels: 1.0% Applications: PEG- and

Glenn Corp.

premium conditioning agent with additional hair fiber protection proprieties. Low viscosity decreasing effects in surfactants formulas. Highly suitable for clear formulations.

0.1-1.0%

glyceryl laurate

Hopewell,VA Tel: (804) 541-8658 Email: [email protected] Website: www.evonik.com

0.2-1.0 (solids basis) Applications: Mild conditioning shampoo formulations and body washes Comments: EcoSmooth Satin provides personal care brand owners a new non-cationic conditioning ingredient for mild conditioning shampoo formulations. EcoSmooth Satin provides at least equivalent conditioning performance to cationic polymers at attractive price levels.

Suggested Use Levels:

Antil Spa 80 INCI: Isostearamide MIPA;

tensive conditioner

Comments: Abil T Quat 60 is a

aurylcitrate sulfosuccinate; capryl/capramidopropyl betaine Suggested use levels: 4-30% Applications: Hair cleansing products Comments: High active, high foaming sulfate-free system offers exceptional mildness for hair or skin cleansing formulations.

CBS-50G INCI: Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine

Suggested use levels: 2%-10% (in shampoo/body wash) Applications: Shampoo Comments: High active sultaine that can be used in hair and skin cleansing formulations. Can be used to replace betaines for flash foaming benefits. Preservative-free and readily biodegradable.

Independent Chemical Corporation Placed on behalf of Vevy Europe Glendale, NY Tel: (718) 326-6654 Email: [email protected]

Website: www.independentchemical.com/

Auxina Tricogena (Vevy Europe code 13.0275) INCI: Tussilago farfara flower extract (and) achillea millefolium extract (and) cinchona succirubra bark extract (and) alcohol (and) water Suggested use levels: 12-15% in alcohol-based hair lotions (69°71°), tonics shampoos and aftershampoos; 8-10% in hydroglyceric, hydroalcoholic solutions applied at the base of the eyelash Applications: Hair care products to nourish hair bulb and stimulate hair growth Comments: Also in ethanol free version for eyelash growth products.

Octaprotein Colloid (Vevy Europe code 13.3646) INCI: Corn extract (and) millet extract (and) barley extract (and) soy protein

Suggested use levels:

Antil SPA 80 INCI: Isostearamide MIPA,

Up to 10%

glyceryl laurate

conditioners to improve softness and elasticity of hair; also for antiitching in skin and body care products; thickening agent in surfactant

Suggested use levels: 0.5-3% Applications: Hair cleansing formulations

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Applications: Shampoos and

December 2011

• Hair Care Ingredients

preparations.

Comments: Water dispersible protein, free of hydrolyzation and emulsifier.

Interpolymer Corp. Canton, MA Tel: (781) 828-7120 Email: [email protected] Website: www.interpolymer.com

Syntran PC 5330 INCI: Polyquaternium 91 (and) polyacrylate 15

Applications: For advanced color protection and conditioning in hair Suggested use levels: 3-5% Comments: This multi-functional polymer increases color retention when formulated into shampoos, conditioners and reactive dye formulas. Modified with quaternary groups, olefin graft polymers are designed to be more substantive to the hair and bring out the best in color retention formulations. These polymers act to inhibit the migration of molecules in and out of the hair shaft, and thus impede the process of dye loss.

Syntran 5905 INCI: Styrene/acrylates copolymer Applications: shampoos and conditioners

Suggested use levels: 0.1-1% Comments: The Syntran polymeric opacifier imparts a milky white appearance at a lower total formulation cost. It offers broad utility in anionic, cationic and amphoteric solutions and emulsions.

Syntran PC 5320 INCI: Polyquaternium 37 Applications: Hair conditioning Suggested use levels: 0.5-5% Comments: Shampoos, conditioners and mousses can benefit from the unique combination of properties offered by this cationic polymer, which brings conditioning to the hair and helps the silicone deposition.

Jeen International Corporation Fairfield, NJ Tel: (973) 439-1401 Email: [email protected] 86 • happi

Website: www.jeen.com Jeequat NDCS INCI: Cetyl alcohol (and)

deposits evenly protecting hair from heat damage.

behentrimonium chloride (and) cocamidopropyl betain (and) sorbitan laurate Suggested use levels: 3-7% Applications: Hair conditioners, styling products Comments: Cold-processable, ready-to-use hair care cationic conditioner concentrate, naturallyderived from rapeseed oil, containing behentrimonium chloride. Has a balanced hydrophile/lipophile profile to ensure the highest viscosity and superior conditioning effect at the lowest cost for your formulating needs.

Jeeplex NAS INCI: Citric acid (and) lactic acid (and) ascorbic acid (and) glycerin

Suggested use levels: 0.5-1.0%

Applications: Hair, skin and sunscreen products Comments: Unique, widely-applicable preservative alternative containing an acid-based antioxidant complex for use in a broad range of system types. Mild, yet very effective, imparts little odor or color in both leave-on and rinse-off formulations. In hair care products, provides an added level of antimicrobial activity to minimize effects of various problematic organisms. Jeelux DMIPIS INCI: Isopropyl isostearate (and) dimethicone (and) bis-vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer Suggested use levels: 3–25% Applications: Hair conditioners, anti-frizz hair serums, pomades, ethnic hair, mousses, combing creams Comments: High molecular weight silicone film former with enhanced compatibility in oil and ester-based systems. Copolymer is a very effective film-former that imparts, along with the carrier system, conditioning attributes such as excellent shine, wet and dry combability, smooth feel, volume and manageability without residue buildup on the hair. When hair drying or hot curling, copolymer film

Lipo Chemicals, Inc. Paterson, NJ Tel: (973) 345-8600

Email: salesandmarketing@ lipochemicals.com Website: www.lipochemicals.com

Liponate OP-26 INCI: PPG-26 Oleate Suggested use levels: 1-10%+ Applications: Serves as a dispersant for ingredients such as moisturizers and essential oils. Comments: Liponate OP-26 is an oil soluble emollient that provides a smooth feel with excellent spreadability and serves as a dispersant.

Liponate SB-50 INCI: PEG-50 shea butter Suggested use levels: 1-5% Applications: A water dispersible emollient Comments: Liponate SB-50 provides the softening and skin conditioning properties associated with shea butter in a liquid form and will add emolliency to surfactant based systems.

Natural Plant Products Salem, OR Tel: (503) 363-6402 Email: [email protected] Website: www.meadowfoam.com

Daikon Radish Oil INCI: Raphanus sativus (radish) seed oil

Suggested use levels: 3-5% Applications: Skin care, hair conditioning, lubricants Comments: This mechanically extracted, unique, extremely lightcolored, and odorless triglyceride is derived from the seeds of commercial daikon radish fields planted by the farmer owners of OMG, the same cooperative that commercialized meadowfoam seed oil. The oil imparts a delicate slip with good absorption and presents a sensory profile more closely associated with esters and silicone type emollients. A study conducted by Natural

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Plant Products revealed that daikon radish oil showed the same skin barrier improvement function as well-known cosmetic emollients such as meadowfoam seed oil and 100 cps dimethicone.

Protameen Chemicals Inc. Totowa, NJ Tel: (973) 256-4374 Email: [email protected] Website: www.protameen.com

Proaqua ISL INCI: Isosteareth-200 linoleate Suggested use levels: 1-5% Applications: Shampoos, solid shampoo bars, mascara. Comments: Proaqua ISL can be incorporated into water based formulations to produce clear shampoos, styling gels and pump sprays with enhanced shine and manageability. Pro-Aqua ISL imparts exceptional skin feel and moisturization benefits to body washes, hand washes and gelled after-sun conditioners.

Protachem LL INCI: Lauroyl lysine Suggested use levels: 1-5% Applications: Shampoos, conditioners, bath products, solid shampoo bars, cosmetics. Comments: Protachem LL is a highly lubricious functional powder ideally suited for make-up products, pressed powders, loose powders, creams and lotions and hair care products. The hydrophobic characteristic of Protachem LL improves the water resistance of make-up preparations and improves the flow and spreadability of oil/powder mixtures. In hair care and skin care products, Protachem LL will act as a conditioning agent leaving skin and hair with a smooth and silky feel.

Super Fruit Butter INCI: Prunus americana (apricot) kernel oil, fragaria vesca (strawberry) seed oil, sambucus nigra (elderberry) seed oil, rubus idaeus (raspberry) seed oil, elaeis guineensis (palm) oil Applications: Creams, lotions, December 2011

Hair Care Ingredients

hot pours, lip balms, makeup. Comments: Super Fruit Butter is used as an emollient and carrier in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. It has excellent skin penetration properties and improves skin smoothness, softness, skin conditioning, and moisturizing activity and improves the skin barrier function.

Sabinsa Corporation East Windsor, NJ Tel: (732) 777-1111 Email: [email protected] Website: www.sabinsa.com

Saberry INCI: Emblica officinalis fruit extract

Suggested use levels: Up to 0.2-1%

Applications: Hair care Comments: Amla has a long tradition of being used for improving the health of hair and scalp. It is

December 2011

widely used in hair care preparations as a natural hair conditioner.

TRI-K Industries Inc. Northvale, NJ Tel: (201) 750-1055 Email: [email protected] Website: www.tri-k.com

Quinoa Pro EX INCI: Hydrolyzed quinoa Suggested use levels: 1-10% Applications: Shampoos, conditioners, and styling products where damage repair, gloss and conditioning are desired. Comments: A natural solution to repair damaged hair! With its proven ability to penetrate the hair cortex, Quinoa Pro EX helps moisturize the hair to leave it looking and feeling healthier. Tests have shown that Quinoa Pro EX effectively improves gloss for enhanced shine, wet/dry combability for styling ease and bet-

ter maintains curl definition without any build-up or residue. Made from natural sources which are gluten and GMO-free, Quinoa Pro EX is an ideal choice for natural hair care lines.

AQ-Save INCI: Hydrolyzed chestnut extract Suggested use levels: 1% Applications: Shampoos, conditioners, leave on treatments and styling products where moisturization and heat protection are desired. Comments: Nature's defense against heat styling stress! AQSave is a unique natural ingredient derived from chestnuts, with proven ability to lock in moisture and prevent cuticle damage from heat and styling tools. Compared to traditional ingredients used for heat protection, AQ-Save does not weigh hair down or leave it feeling greasy. Instead, hair is moisturized

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•

and conditioned for added shine and smoother feel.

Panthecare EE INCI: Panthenyl ethyl ether Suggested use levels: 0.5-5.0% Applications: Conditioners and hair styling products where moisturization, anti-static, and better manageability are desired. Comments: Panthecare EE is a moisturizing agent and a source of vitamin B5 for maximum conditioning effects in hair care products. Compared to DL-Panthenol, it has superior substantivity and penetration into the hair cortex, improving hair moisturization and offering better combability, gloss and elasticity. In styling products it offers anti-static control for better manageability. It is a multi-functional conditioning ingredient for superior hair care formulations. •

happi • 87

Fully LOADED Active ingredients are a must in today’s anti-aging skin care products. Christine Esposito • Associate Editor

P

ROTEINS.

PEPTIDES. ENZYMES. At one time, only chemists got excited about these materials. Today, they catch the attention of smart women who are using modern communication to educate themselves about what can slow down or counteract the signs of aging skin. Armed with that knowledge, consumers expect their skin care formulations to be packed with active ingredients that lead to visible results. “With the amount of information that is now readily available to consumers through the internet as well as traditional media, we’re finding that they are now much more savvy about the ingredients that they want in their skin care products,”said Joe Pastorkovich, vice president of Lumene North America.“Nowadays, consumers can easily get and share a vast amount of information on products, formulations and ingredients through media, internet and social media. Especially lifestyle media has recently taken more and more advantage of experts to advise on product safety concerns and overall benefits of cosmetic products.” It has made for a perfect storm in the personal care market. Sales of anti-aging skin care products have been on the rise, and the powerhouse ingredients that wage war against wrinkles, dullness, fine lines and dark spots, are in demand as well. In 2010, the US specialty actives market was valued at nearly $240 million, according to Kline & Company. The Parsippany, NJbased research firm—which includes in that number botanicals, proteins, peptides, biotechnology products, marine ingredients and enzymes—says US specialty actives for personal care is forecast to grow at an average annual rate of approximately 3.8% by value during the next five years. According to Kline & Company’s Anna Ibbotson, industry manager, chemicals and materials, anti-aging trends are fueling the sector. “Many active formulations are centered on anti-aging, claiming to either slow, stop, or even reverse the effects the environDecember 2011

Clinique has incorporated collagen-boosting peptides in its Lid Smoothie Antioxidant 8-Hour Colour shadows.

ment and age has on the skin. Anti-aging products have been developed to fight all types of aging signs, be it age spots or wrinkles,” she said. In fact, Kline reports that more than half of the specialty actives market is focused on anti-aging products that delay or reduce the effect of aging, and it is also the fastest growing category by functionality.

Show Some ‘Pep’ One of the active ingredients that has become a mainstay in a chemists’toolkit is the peptide. Formulators are tapping these materials to improve the appearance of skin that’s loosing its luster. HydroPeptide’s Even Out Brightening Pigment Corrector, for example, is designed to block melanin pathways and fade age spots, sun damage, acne scars and pregnancy mask via patented peptides. Designed to lighten hyperpigmentation and brighten skin, it features five mechanisms for skin brightening, including Chromabright, a new brightening active that safely inhibits tyrosinase activity, a key determinant of melanin production in skin. In clinical tests run by Lipotec Group, Chromabright exhibited a better depigmenting effect than kojic acid and arbutin, similar to hydroquinone. Even Out also features oligopeptide-68 (beta white peptide),

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happi • 89

• Actives

atin production in the lash line to repair damage which reduces the microphthalmia-associate and promote new lashes. transcription factor (MITF) pathway to regulate Another offering from EnvyDerm is its lash the actions that cause pigmentation, and inhibits serum, which packs a powerful punch that takes tyrosinase and melanin production. into account the different stages of lash growth— Even Out is the only pigment corrector on anagen (active/ growth phase), catagen (transithe market that contains this exclusive patented tion/regression phase) and telegen (resting phase). peptide, asserted company officials. According to Nadia Smith, creator of the line, EnThe formulation also relies on licorice, a natvyDerm Eyelash Serum’s active ingredient works ural plant-derived skin lightener which also has on significantly stimulating the keratin genes tyrosinase-inhibiting properties; lactic acid for mainly kRT3, kRT4, KRTHP 1.5, KRTHB1, 2 and 4. skin renewal benefits; and allantoin, which is “These keratin genes are present in the anagen derived from the comfrey plant and stimulates stage, so when EnvyDerm Eyelash Serum is used, growth of healthy tissue and promotes exfoliathe keratins are significantly stimulated to protion of layers of darkened skin. mote stronger, more voluminous and longer lookAt Dermalogica, the AGE Smart Overnight ing lashes,”she said. Repair Serum is formulated with palmitoyl tripeptide-38 and alaria extract to help increase collagen renewal, hydration, firmness and dermal strength. Natural Predators The serum also features argan oil, vitamin E and Green ingredients still rule the roost with skin care essential fatty acids help restore a weakened barconsumers. And leading skin care formulators are rier layer, lock in moisture and increase elasticity, looking to specific situations where botanicals— as well as rose hip seed oil to help minimize disthe largest specialty actives category, according to coloration and boost cell renewal. Kline & Company’s recent data—can have the Clinique has incorporated collagen-boosting greatest impact. peptides in its Lid Smoothie Antioxidant 8-Hour Avon’s Anew Genics Treatment Cream features Colour shadows, which rolled out in August. YouthGen technology, which the direct seller says Said to smooth skin texture as its leaves a soft, is a unique blend of molecules and extracts inpowdery finish with some shimmer, this lightcluding Avon’s patented melicope hayesii leaf exweight shadow—which is available in 12 coltract and patent-pending mesyloxy BSA—both ors—also features an antioxidant-rich blend of first-to-market technology. The cream is formuextracts like vitamin E, broccoli, carrot, blueberry lated to stimulate youth gene activity and increase and spinach, plus cucumber, aloe vera and cafthe production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, acfeine. In addition, a metallized tip helps deliver HydroPeptide Even Out Brightening cording to Avon. a cool, refreshing feel with each application, ac- Pigment Corrector features ChromaAt Vichy, the focus is on the function of the cording to the Estée Lauder brand. papillary dermis, or derm source. Located imbright, a new brightening active that Over at Jan Marini Skin Research, the R&D safely inhibits tyrosinase activity, and mediately below the epidermis, this vital layer is team has formulated Retinol Plus and Retinol oligopeptide-68. responsible for driving skin rejuvenation Plus MD, billed as“retinoid-antioxidant peptide processes, including collagen and elastin procomplex solutions.”The latter has 1.0% retinol and is available duction. Over time,Vichy says derm source function deteriorates, through the physician retail marketplace, while Retinol Plus has leading to visible signs of aging such as wrinkles, sagging and a a 0.5% concentration, and is available to licensed skin care pro- loss of firmness. fessionals and physicians. To counteract that, the firm has turned to Rhamnose, a natuThey both are said to offer significant advantages beyond just rally-derived plant extract that has been proven to stimulate derm those of high-concentration retinoid, according to the San Jose- source activity.Vichy LiftActiv with Rhamnose 5% is proven to reCA-based brand. The integrated peptides, antioxidants, hydrators duce the appearance of the most common facial wrinkles—foreand soothing agents enhance clinical benefits while simultane- head, crow's-feet, under-eye, and between the eyebrows—starting ously reducing the acclimation and sensitivity historically associ- in just two weeks. Overall skin tone and texture also begin to imated with high concentration retinoids. prove after just four days of use, the company said But peptides aren’t just for skin care; EnvyDerm has tapped Stiefel is touting Revaléskin Illuminesse Brightening Complex, the technology for eyelashes. EnvyDerm Growth Mascara and which relies on coffeeberry whole fruit extract. According to clinGrowth Liquid Eyeliner both feature Hydroplant specialized ical studies, coffeeberry helps replenish the skin’s lost natural anpeptide combined with hydrolyzed keratin which stimulate ker- tioxidants and neutralizes free radicals that can accelerate the 90 • happi

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aging process. It helps repair existing damage while also protecting against future damage. Decleor has bulked up its antiaging arsenal, too. In Expression De L’Age Smoothing Roll’On, hyaluronic acid promotes microcirculation and with the deep penetration of active ingredients. Keeping an eye on hydration—a key aspect of younger looking skin—the firm has infused the product with essential neroli, extracts of cherry tree bud and codium. Also new is Decleor’s Experience De L’Age Resurfacing Gel-Peeling Life Radiance, which features AHA fruit extract and fruit acid concentrate to exfoliate and minimize the appearance of photodamaged skin, and Excellence De L’Age Dark Spot Corrector Concentrate Face & Hands. “Each area is different in terms of

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The R&D staff at Helix Beauty says the secret to its Helix-D line of skin care is the combination of active ingredients and an effective delivery system.

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thickness and resiliency, but age does not discriminate and this spot corrector was created to reduce pigmented spots on all areas,” said Shannon Gallogly, Decleor’s national educator and training manager. She pointed out that at the heart of this SKU is a Light Balance Plant Complex, which works to regulate the skin’s pigmentation process. While age spots are telltale markers, pore size is another factor that contributes to overall lackluster skin. Along those lines, Dr. Brandt has expanded its Pores No More collection. New Pore Solution clarifying lotion and Pore Thing with Evermat t-zone pore tightener both rely on active ingredients to strengthen pore walls to restore flexibility, reduce the appearance of dilated pores and mattify shine, according to the company.

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In the clarifying lotion, salicylic acid exfoliates and removes dead skin cells as lactic acid smoothes texture. In addition, the lotion contains Pro-D.B.S., billed as an anti-inflammatory ingredient that regulates skin’s pH, and tea tree oil for its antibacterial benefits. Dr. Brandt describes the pore tightener as a breakthrough “memory gel”developed to gently clear pores, reduce excess oil and restore enlarged pore walls, snapping them back into shape. Driving this formulation are lentil extract, a multi-action oligosaccharide; Evermat, a combination of oleanolic acid and an extract derived from an African tree that balances the activity of sebaceous glands; Eijitsu rose, a rose bud active (dried fruit of Rose multiflora) commonly used in Japan for its medicinal properties; and alpine extract, which decreases sebum production and reduces shines. While some brands search the globe for the right actives, for skin care and wellness brand Lumene, its key actives share a similar heritage—there’s Arctic cloudberry in its Vitamin C+ line, arctic sea buckthorn in the Premium Beauty line and arctic heather in the Time Freeze line. The firm says due to the environment in which they thrive, these plants and berries are super-concentrated in vitamins, antioxidants and other nutrients, and each ingredient has its special benefits for the skin. For example, cloudberry boosts radiance and protects the skin against the signs of aging; sea buckthorn rejuvenates and nourishes the skin, protecting it against free radicals; and heather protects the skin’s elastin fibers, and firms and smoothes the skin, as well as prevents pigment changes.

Active ingredients used in Jafra Pro embrace a range of technologies such as matrikine peptides, aquaporines, cross-linked hyaluronic acid, polyphenols, stem cell botanicals and marine based oligosaccharides.

tional—Jafra Pro—which was created through the leadership of Pragna Chakravarti, chief scientific officer and VP of worldwide R&D. The range—which includes Even Tone, Face Lift SPF 20, Night Recovery Concentrate, Dermal Line Filler and Eye Transformer—takes a multi-dimensional approach to address the seven dimensions of visibly younger skin such as lasting hydration; vitality; even complexion; firmness, elasticity, resiliency and suppleness; reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles; inflammation or redness; and enhanced facial contour lift, according to the company. It’s About Delivery Too The active ingredients used in the collection embrace a range Also new to the anti-aging scene is a new line from Jafra Internaof technologies such as matrikine peptides, aquaporines, cross-linked hyaluronic acid, polyphenols, stem cell botanicals, marine based oligosaccharides and several plant-derived superior performance driven compositions. “These carefully selected actives collectively address all of the aspects of skin aging, simultaneously offering effective maintenance and recovery of youthful looking and behaving skin for women ages 20 to 50s plus,”said Chakravarti. Skin care chemists recognize that the right actives are critical and a fully-loaded formulation is sure to generate interest. But there are other aspects that must be addressed if the product is going to deliver the efficacy the brand is promising. “The delivery system plays a critical role in ensuring that the actives reach their target sites for effective performance,” Chakravarti told HAPPI.“Cell communicaVichy has turned to Rhamnose, a naturally-derived plant extract that has been proven to tion principles, specific gene array monitored selection stimulate derm source activity. The firm says LiftActiv with Rhamnose 5% is proven to re- processes of key actives and the careful assimilation of multiple pathways can result in final formulas that deduce the appearance of the most common facial wrinkles starting in just two weeks. 94 • happi

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liver, meet or exceed expectations.” Louis Rinaldi, chief cosmetic officer for Helix Beauty LLC, agrees. “Great ingredients are a necessary first step—but it is just a first step. The key to making those ingredients effective in helping aging and damaged skin look younger and more beautiful, depends on stability and absorption/delivery of those ingredi-

ents to the areas of the skin that show the signs of aging,” he said.“If you load a product with ingredients, but they sit on the surface of the skin, they won’t do the job.” The company's new Helix-D range, which debuted at Cosmoprof Las Vegas this summer, includes a face and neck serum and an eye serum. Both are fueled by actives such as advanced power-peptides, matrikines, anti-oxidants and nano-hydrators that rejuvenate, rehydrate and restore skin to its youthful appearance. The key to the line’s efficacy, however, lies in the Helix Delivery System (HDS). It features a dual-liposome, low polar, frictionfree delivery system that suspends the active ingredients in a protective matrix, preserving their potency until fully activated by skin temperature.

Driving Avon’s Anew Genics Treatment Cream are patented melicope hayesii leaf extract and patentpending mesyloxy BSA.

According to Rinaldi—the former chief cosmetic officer of Strivectin-SD—when the matrix and base are blended at the skin surface during application, the formulation is activated and the delivery system transports the actives past the protective outer layer of the skin to deliver the active ingredients where they are needed most. As the delivery system is absorbed past the skin's surface, first the exterior, then the interior liposomes dissolve, providing a sustained active ingredient release for the best possible results. The secret to great products, say experts, is about reaching an ingredient’s full potential. “Cosmetic actives for skin have to be absorbed to reach their full potential,”Rinaldi said.“Only then, will you see that the product really improves your appearance.”• 96 • happi

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A Helping Hand For Sun Care Advanced sun care products must include supportive sun protection strategies. Cosmetic actives offer attractive multifunctional benefits, such as enhanced functionality and opportunities for new claims and competitive differentiation. A Rahn researcher highlights some actives that lend themselves to sun care products. Stefan Bänziger, PhD • Rahn AG

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HE SUN PROTECTION segment is one of the fastest growing personal care sectors; in the US, sales have increased by nearly 50% since 2005. Despite a sluggish and unsettled economic environment, consumers are willing to invest in sun protection because they are increasingly aware that UV exposure promotes skin aging and cancer. Several manufacturers are cooperating with cancer organizations to promote sun protection and it now appears that educational sun campaigns are bearing fruit. Educated consumers are becoming more demanding; they expect products to provide excellent protection and be fun to use at no additional cost. Moreover, chances for persistent and crisis-resistant growth have led to increased competition as more players are looking for a share of the segment.

SPF Is Not the Answer Gone are the days when it was enough to create a safe product that meets simple SPF requirements. Modern sunscreen products must provide cosmetic properties, such as a pleasant texture and application format, to convince consumers to buy and use them regularly. Current strategies aim to maximize efficacy or optimize the delivery system of existing filters to increase formulation flexibility. The development of new and really innovative filters is hampered by substantial regulatory hurdles.1 December 2011

In the EU, SPF claims are limited to a few numbers (e.g., 20, 25, 30, 50+), and UVA protection is judged on simple pass/fail criteria. The finalized FDA Sunscreen Monograph presumably will further restrict sun protection claims; the maximum SPF value on sunscreen labeling will probably be limited to 50+. It is therefore becoming increasingly difficult for manufacturers to differentiate their products based only on SPF and UVA claims. Manufacturers responded to these issues with multidimensional products that stand out from the crowd and gain market share.2,3 The newest generation of products combines effective sun protection with skin care features, such as hydration, nourishment or radical scavenging. The crossover between sun protection and skin care benefits both groups of products; sunscreen products get a point of difference, and antiaging creams get the extra benefit of sun protection. New products not only add active cosmetic ingredients, they avoid certain ingredients (e.g., nanoparticles). Some claims, such as “nano-free,” must be used with great caution, as they could arouse illfounded consumer concerns about safety (e.g., nano-sized TiO2). The reputation of our most-effective filters could be irrevocably damaged if consumers associate them with ingredients that make them uncomfortable. In stark contrast, cosmetic actives offer real added value. happi.com

Cosmetic Actives Add Benefits UV filters are obviously the most important ingredients in sun protection products as they prevent the penetration of UV light into the skin. UV filters, thus, build the first line of defense by providing chemical and physical protection. Cosmetic actives provide a valuable second line of defense by providing biological protection. They reduce detrimental secondary skin damages or enhance the skin’s natural resistance to UV stress. Finally, cosmetic actives pave the way for new performance and marketing claims.This article presents three examples of active ideas.

Free Radical And ROS Protection Degenerative processes related to aging are primarily a consequence of oxidative stress associated with free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS).The skin is constantly exposed to harmful ROS from the environment or the body’s metabolism. ROS are highly reactive molecules that oxidize all sorts of cellular components, leading to DNA, lipid and protein damage and provoking a series of toxic effects. To defend itself against ROS damage, the skin’s antioxidant defense system normally uses antioxidant defense enzymes and nonenzymatic, small-molecule antioxidants. After excessive UVA exposure, ROS can quickly overload the defense system. In particular, photo-unstable filters may behappi • 97

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Figure 1: Cosmetic active 1 reduces cutaneous ROS levels in vivo. The peroxide level was measured in strips of human stratum corneum upon UV irradiation. The calculated effectiveness against free radicals was 261% (shown in red).

have as exogenous UVA sensitizers and contribute to overload since ROS-inducing intermediates are produced during the photolysis of photo-unstable filters. Moreover, the concomitant decrease of UV protection further favors ROS burst. The uncontrolled distribution of ROS accelerates skin aging and induces consequences ranging from the formation of erythemas, edemas, wrinkles, photoaging and ultimately skin cancer.4 UV filters never provide 100% protection. Incorporating cosmetic actives into sunscreens can help decrease the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging. This second line of defense neutralizes ROS that emerges despite the presence of UV filters. Plant extracts are especially effective in this demanding task. Cosmetic Active 1 is a powerful combination (INCI: Water, melissa officinalis leaf extract, disodium rutinyl disulfate, hordeum distichon (barley) extract) of the natural radical scavenger rosmarinic acid from lemon balm and the flavonoid rutin, with the valuable trace elements (Mn, Zn, Se) from barley. The nonenzymatic antioxidants rosmarinic acid and rutin are extremely efficient radical scavengers and interrupt the destructive chain reactions. Radicals are stopped before they cause damage. Most antioxidant defense enzymes require co-factors, and Mn, Zn, and Se are essential for these ROS-eliminating enzymes. Mn and Zn are co-factors of superoxide dismutase and Se is a co-fac98 • happi

other common form of DNA damage called thymine-thymine dimers. Cells have evolved efficient DNA repair systems. If cells fail to repair the DNA, they will not survive. To prevent this damage, UV filters are increasingly being combined with innovative anti-aging ingredients, such as Example 2, to protect the skin’s DNA from light-induced damage and activate the cells’ repair mechanisms. Cosmetic Active 2 (INCI: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, ethyl ferulate, polyglyceryl-5 trioleate, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, water, disodium uridine phosphate) combines ethyl ferulate and carnosolic acid from rosemary

tor of glutathione peroxidase. Indeed, our first example features excellent protection against ROS (Figure 1). UV-irradiationinduced cutaneous peroxides were more than 66% less than untreated control or placebo.The effectiveness for removing peroxides from skin exposed to UV irradiation was calculated as 261%.This means that levels of peroxides in the skin were reduced to levels even lower than those in unexposed skin. Thus, cosmetic actives help to reduce the risk of UVA-induced ROS damage.

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H2O2

Cell and DNA Protection Genetic information is stored on DNA as a sequence of nucleotides: A (adenine), T (thymine), G (guanine) or C (cytosine). Like the letters in the words of a sentence, these DNA “letters” encode the information to make proteins. Changes in the nucleotide sequence or DNA mutations alter the information and lead to faulty proteins. Those faulty proteins can adversely affect cell functions or, even worse, induce skin cancer. Mutations result from many factors, but an important source is exposure to both kinds of UV light. UVA wavelengths are thought to mutate DNA indirectly by causing the formation of ROS: ROS favors the modification of G to 8-oxo-G. During cell division, A instead of C is incorporated into the DNA helix, and a silent“point mutation,” which is invisible to the body’s repair systems, is established. UVB, in contrast, may interact directly with DNA to initiate anhappi.com

Figure 2: UVA and UVB radiation cause DNA damage indirectly and directly, respectively (upper panel). Cosmetic actives neutralize dangerous ROS and thereby prevent the formation of mainly UVA-induced indirect DNA damage and mutation. Alternatively, they support the repair of UVBmediated direct DNA damage.

Active DNA protection upon solar irradiation (lower panel). Staining of thymine-thymine dimers in a three-dimensional model of human keratinocytes pretreated with cosmetic active or placebo and then irradiated with UV light. Healthy cells are blue. DNA damage can be identified as black dots.

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to combat ROS and counteract indirect DNA damage and mutations. Uridine monophosphate (UMP) is a biochemical

building block that cells use to make nucleotides. Thus, this formulation supports cellular DNA repair as it accelerates the

Figure 3: Rapid regeneration after UVB-induced erythema. Upper panel: Maximum level of erythema on day 0 corresponds to 100% skin redness. Skin-redness reduction was monitored with a chromameter for 5 days. N = 20; 2% of cosmetic active 2 was compared to a placebo. Lower panel: The photographs illustrate the out-performing effect on day 3.

Creating effective sun care products requires innovative ingredients that provide multiple benefits such as protecting cells and DNA.

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supply of urgently required nucleotides (Figure 2, upper panel). In fact, DNA damage (such as thyminethymine dimers) was prevented when cells were treated with cosmetic active 2 before being exposed to UV irradiation (Figure 2; lower panel). Cells were exposed to a dose of 1500 mJ/cm2, which corresponds roughly to the UV stress of three hours of midday sun. We hypothesized that less DNA damage and faster DNA repair translates to less skin redness upon exposure to the sun. Indeed, cosmetic active 2 accelerated the regeneration of UV-stressed skin. After just one day, the regeneration process was twice as advanced as that in placebotreated skin (Figure 3). The same concept applies to protecting stem cells. Stem cells play a crucial role in skin rejuvenation,5 and protecting them from daily stresses (such as UV light) slows stem-cell aging and extends skin rejuvenation further into old age. Cosmetic active 2 protected epidermal stem and progenitor cells against sunlight. It maintained their ability to restore the proper three-dimensional structure to the epidermis after UV stress and thus protects the function of epidermal stem cells (not shown). Carefully adding select compounds that protect cells and DNA to sun care products will help repair the consequences of an overdose of solar radiation and maintain the epidermal protective barrier in the long run.

Age Spot Protection Sun and age induce the formation of the pigments melanin and lipofuscin. Keratinocytes in the epidermis retain and accumulate these pigments, and together with melanocytes, grow downward from the basal membrane into the dermis, where they form bud-shaped micro-invaginations.6 As a result, the desquamation process; i.e, the natural shedding of older skin cells, breaks down, and forms age spots containing melanin and lipofuscin. Lipofuscin is a heterogeneous structure of oxidized proteins and fat products. With aging, the proteasomal system, the cellular recycling factory, becomes less effective. December 2011

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skin blemish, whether it is a tan, freckle or age spot.

Conclusion Figure 4: A winning team: physical and biological protection against age spots. Left panel: UV filters provide physical protection by blocking UV light. Actives, such as oleuropein, vitamin C or zinc PCA, provide biological protection by reducing the formation of skin pigments associated with age spots. Together, these measures prevent new age spots and actively treat existing ones. Lower panel: Existing age spots are reduced. Quantitative evaluation of contour sharpness upon treatment with cosmetic active 3. The gray levels of age spots and their surroundings were measured, and the sharpness ∆E*ab (i.e., color difference between the age spot and the surrounding skin) of the contours was calculated. N= 20; twice daily application.

Gone are the days when sun protection merely meant preventing sunburn. The boundaries between sun protection and skin care are blurring as the perception of beauty and youth is more associated with sun protection. Preventing sunburn will remain the No. 1 priority, but anti-aging and skin care benefits will become increasingly important. Manufacturers must look beyond SPF and UVA to create multifunctional products that will attract consumers with improved convenience and skin feel. Cosmetic actives will be increasingly important for enhancing the status of sun care products. As a biological second line of defense, they prevent, reduce or repair detrimental effects from UV overexposure, such as oxidative stress, DNA-damage, spot formation and erythema. Sun protection strategies that complement other attractive features, such as convenience and skin feel, provide opportunities for exciting new marketing concepts and claims that will help to differentiate these products from the rest of the field. •

References

Lipofuscin, as cellular waste, can be neither degraded nor removed. To minimize the formation of both pigments, thus, presents a promising approach to tackle the formation and treatment of age spots. Cosmetic active 3 (INCI: Glycerin, water, olea europaea (olive) leaf extract, ascorbyl glucoside, zinc PCA) combines substances to combat melanin and lipofuscin formation. The polyphenol oleuropein from olive leaves reduces lipofuscin formation by re-activating the proteasomal recycling factory. Stabilized vitamin C inhibits tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanogenesis, to block the mechanism 100 • happi

behind melanin formation. Zinc PCA increases the concentration of vitamin C transporters and facilitates the uptake of vitamin C (Figure 4). Cosmetic active 3 effectively reduced the size (not shown) of existing age spots and diminished their contours (Figure 4). By combating melanin and lipofuscin, the cosmetic active also prevents the emergence of aging in the future. Preventing age spots involves using sunscreen and limiting sun exposure. Cosmetic actives interfere with melanin and lipofuscin synthesis and help to reverse the effects of sun damage by fading any brown happi.com

1. Hewitt J (2011) Bright ideas. SPC. pp. 85-92. 2. Di Martino N (2011) Added benefits. SPC. pp. 75-83. 3. Branna T (2011) Burnt Offerings. Happi. pp. 91-100. 4. Trouba KJ, Hamadeh HK, Amin RP, Germolec DR (2002) Oxidative stress and its role in skin disease. Antioxid Redox Signal 4: 665-673. 5. Blanpain C, Fuchs E (2009) Epidermal homeostasis: a balancing act of stem cells in the skin. Nat Rev Mol Cell Biol 10: 207217. 6. Noblesse E, Nizard C, Cario-Andre M, Lepreux S, Pain C, et al. (2006) Skin ultrastructure in senile lentigo. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 19: 95-100. More info: Rahn AG, Dörflistrasse 120, CH-8050 Zürich, Switzerland. Tel: +41 44 315 42 00; Fax: +41 315 42 45; Email: [email protected]; Website: www.rahn-group.com December 2011

A Meeting of THE MINDS The Personal Care Product Council’s Science Symposium featured the latest news on microbiology, quality assurance, safety and environmental issues. Melissa Meisel • Associate Editor

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Personal Care Products: A Microbiologist’s HE LATEST BUZZ in microbiology, View,” from Deidre Mitchell, microbiology quality assurance, safety and envimanager at Unilever Research and Develronmental issues beguiled more opment Facilities in Trumbull, CT. than 300 industry leaders at this year’s “Preservatives are essential ingredients Personal Care Product Council Science added to a product to prevent and/or minSymposium, held Oct. 25-27 at the Marimize the growth of microorganisms. They riott Newark International Hotel in are added to products to protect the quality Newark, NJ. The event, sponsored by Coty, Johnson & Johnson, Kao Brands, Grant Irwin Palefsky of Cosmetech, Deidre Mitchell of and consumer safety for the intended shelf Industries and QMI-SAI Global, also fea- Unilever and Phil Geis of Geis Quality Consulting (left life of a product,” she said. “Ultimately, tured the Cosmetic Science Expo, an open to right) participated in a lively roundtable discussion preservatives are essential to protect the quality of the product and safety of the forum for personal care suppliers to show- at the end of the microbiology workshop. consumer.” case their services. Mitchell emphasized that despite adequate product preservaOn Wednesday, Oct. 26, HAPPI attended both the quality assurance and microbiology workshops.“The Preservation of Personal tion and the following of cGMP (current good manufacturing pracCare Products”was the theme of the microbiology session, while tice), it must be recognized that personal care products are not quality assurance focused on“Quality and Compliance as a Com- immune to microbiological exposure (i.e. bugs). She also noted that formulators should never “chip away” at preservative levels to petitive Advantage.” Dr. John Krowka, senior environmental scientist for the Per- achieve cost-savings. According to Mitchell, successful preservasonal Care Products Council, welcomed attendees to the microbi- tion of personal care products involves the knowledge of: formuology workshop. The first presentation was “Preservation of lation and ingredients, including pH, ability of the unpreserved

December 2011

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The Grant team show-

An eager crowd ab-

cased the company’s

sorbed the technical

latest products.

presentations.

base to support the growth and replication of microorganisms; regulations and public relations issues about the preservatives under consideration; target consumer and consumer use habits; manufacturing facility where the product will be made; and intended life cycle of the product, including distribution. The next presentation,“Formulation with Preservatives in Personal Care Products” from Irwin Palefsky of Cosmetech, was an overview of the different types of preservatives used in today’s marketplace. A cosmetic industry veteran with more than 40 years of experience, he has served in various positions in R&D. “The preservative system is not a replacement for good hygiene/cleanliness during manufacturing,”noted Palefsky.“Also, the preservative system is not intended to replace microbial control of raw materials or water used in the formulation.” All preservatives must be in the water phase of the formulation, he added. Palefsky then presented commonly used preservative ingredients, such as benzyl alcohol and chlorphenesin; as well as“natural” alternatives such as essential oil combinations (cinnamon leaf and lemongrass oils). He also shared some“non-traditional”preservative combinations, such as caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin; as well as a variety of successfully tested formulations. “Work with a preservative supplier who will screen preservatives in the base formula,”suggested Palefsky. Phil Geis of Geis Quality Consulting presented “Preservation of Atypical Products.”His presentation was all about the“atypical” in personal care. Through almost three decades with P&G microbiology, Geis managed preservative and disinfectant development and studies of household and skin microbial ecologies and hygienic manufacturing. “An atypical product rarely fits into an existing risk manufacturing and consumer use assessment,”he explained. Factors such as materials, packaging, delivery or consumer usage can make a product“atypical.” For example, a product is atypical by raw materials when it features organic ingredients, geographically remote sourcing or aseptic manufacturing/terminal sterilization in the manufacturing process. Atypical by formulation is demonstrated by unique emulsions (water in silicone oil), multiple phases (ribbons, beads) or being labeled“preservative free.” “In preservation of the atypical, there is a greater complexity of preservation. Therefore, compromise in preservation must be balanced with greater control,”concluded Geis.“It’s not just limited to what you see on the shelf. The packaging and raw materials, as well as consumer use, makes an impact globally.” A panel discussion and lively Q&A session wrapped up the 102 • happi

morning portion of this workshop. Halyna Breslawec, Ph.D., EVP, science, Personal Care Products Council, introduced the afternoon session for the microbiology workshop. Doug Cole of Rockline discussed the challenges of preserving wet wipes; while Neal Machtiger of Microbiological Solutions/Bio-Control presented pointers on packaging, preservation and protection. A session on preservation efficacy testing from Scott Sutton of Microbiology Network wrapped up this seminar.

Quality Assurance Workshop Breslawec of The Council also welcomed attendees to the quality assurance workshop. John Avellanet of Cerulean Associates presented “How to Influence Management on the Importance of GMPs.”A segment on audit readiness then followed from Khurshed Kutky of QMI-SAI Global. After the break, Manuela Coroama of COLIPA, the European Cosmetic Association, offered a presentation,“GMPs in the EU and the Concept of Harmonized Standards;”then Karyn Campbell of the FDA offered an update on the administration. In the afternoon, Harry Koharcheck, vice president of quality assurance, Aveda Corporation, delivered a presentation on quality metrics. His benchmark survey delved into everything from companies’ quality assurance budgets to annual percentage of microbiological rejects. “Supply Chain Oversight”was then delivered by Peter Kitz of Rx-360. His presentation focused on pharmaceuticals and was fitting, as he is also the vice president for Latin America & Asia Pacific quality operations for Merck. But some of these tips may also prove fruitful for the personal care industry with the rising demand for cosmeceutical skin care products. “Illicit activity is present and threatens the safety of medicines,” he said.“But momentum is building.”The industry is conducting more thorough audits, focusing on supply chain security and implementing company specific solutions. However, “greater achievements are required because the threats are not slowing down,”added Kitz. After a break, David Coker of Alfa Laval discussed cleaning and sanitation issues. Then, Bill Hall, Ph.D. of Hall and Associates presented“Cleaning Validation.” According to Hall, companies and regulators spend a great deal of time“peeling back the onion”to find the source of the problem. But the problem could be almost anything—raw materials, manufacturing procedures, cleaning procedures, microbial, inadequate training or even criminal activity. “Know thy processes and products,”he concluded. •

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December 2011

HAPPI Annual Index 2011 Articles are arranged alphabetically by subject followed by an alphabetical list of columnists and contributing authors.

Cleaners and Disinfectants A Dirty Job People, Places and Things Searching for Answers

Month Page April 54 Nov. 74 Dec. 57

Company Features Alternative Preservatives (Inolex) Beauty Solutions Dow Chemical Gets Personal HallStar Combines Science & Nature The International Top 30 The Top 50

Month Page Sept. 58 Aug. 48 Feb. 56 Nov. 52 Aug. 68 July 69

Conventions, Meetings,Trade Shows A Meeting of the Minds (PCPC) ACI Builds Its Brand Breakthroughs for Break Outs? (SCC) Come Together (CSPA)

December 2011

Month Page Dec. 101 March 60 July 66 Jan. 86

Good Chemistry (SCC) Opportunity in Adversity (CSPA) Recent FDA Actions (FL SCC)

Jan. June Oct.

90 122 80

Cosmetics and Toiletries A Dynamic Approach A Green Light for Naturals Alive and Kicking Burnt Offerings Clear Sailing Crowning Glory Driving Forces Finding the Green Full Color Spectrum Fully Loaded Give It to Me Straight No Appointment Necessary Playing Defense Sustainable Cosmetics The Sky’s the Limit Up & Coming

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Month Page June 85 June 65 Jan. 55 March 91 Oct. 55 Dec. 71 April 65 Dec. 63 Aug. 57 Dec. 89 June 77 May 97 Sept. 77 July 57 March 69 Jan. 61

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Formulary A monthly department. In addition, formulations can be accessed from our website, WWW.HAPPI.COM.

Fragrances All They Want for Christmas Lighten Up! Love Is in the Air Star-Studded FiFi Awards You’ve Come a Long Way, Baby!

Month Page Nov. 55 April 77 Sept. 61 July 51 Jan. 73

Happi.com Each month, our website provides exclusive online articles that you’ll find only on Happi.com. Visit the site throughout the month to keep on top of the news, read informative opinions from industry experts and product reviews and watch exclusive interviews with innovative thinkers and analysts. 8th World Surfactant Congress 600 Beauty Solutions & Counting A Baby and Botanical Bliss A Colorful Spring A Cut Above A Focus on Hair Care A Garden of Delights A Lasting Impression A Lovely Website

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Jan. Dec. March March March July March Nov. Feb.

A Passion for Fashion A Polished Look A Return to Wellness A Wash with Opportunity An Inside View Avalon’s Organic (R)Evolution Beauty for All Brestle on Relationships Buzz Off! By the Book Catch a Rising Star Chanel’s Sustainability Chic & Simple Clarisonic Is Making Waves Clean That Screen Clean Up Your Mouth Cleaning Up at CES Color & Fury Consumers Crave Health and Beauty Creating Time-Defying Scents Croda Inc Powers Innovation Degree QR Code Digital IQ Duane Reade Eraclea Launches New Era Everything’s in the Kitchen Sink ExTracts Expands Get Glowing Grandfather Knows Best Growth Is PDQ

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Sept. Nov. Jan. March April Nov. June June June Sept. Feb. Feb. Jan. June Jan. Feb. Jan. March April May July July Jan. Aug. April April Aug. June Oct. July

December 2011

Hooray for HBA In Need of a Handout In P&G, They Trust In Sync with the Consumer In the Nyx of Time Is this a Recovery? It’s All About Mom Kids Hair Expert is ‘On Call’ Kiss and Tell Just the Right Note Leonor Greyl Little Brand in a Big Box L’Oréal Honors Banfield L’Oréal Paris Thinks Spring Marketing & Sales Salary Survey Multi-Tasking Makeup New Improved Oral Care Nine Months of Beauty No Excuses, No Regrets No Slaves to Fashion Novel Skin Care Ingredients Razor with an Edge R&D Salary Survey Reset & Recharge Sebastian’s Infinite Possibilities Seven Day Stretch Steady Gains in AP/Deo Stop What You’re Doing Summer Sizzlers Taking Flight, Checking In The American Dream The Doctor’s Orders The Mechanics of Good Skin The Power of Plants The Root of the Problem The Science of Skin Care The Wonder Years To Grow or Not to Grow? Tossing the Tube Tumultuous Events Wear It Well Weleda Is Keeping Its Promises Wella Launches What Impact Oil? What Men Want What’s Ahead for Hugo? What’s New at Colomer?

December 2011

April Sept. April Dec. Sept. Nov. April Feb. Oct. Dec. Feb. Dec. March Feb. Oct. July Feb. June Aug. Feb. June March May April July Feb. Jan. July Aug. Dec. Aug. March Oct. April May Oct. April Feb. Sept. Feb. Aug. Oct. Jan. April July Sept. Aug.

What’s New at Joico? What’s New Underfoot? When You Care Enough Winning the Silver

Nov. May June Jan.

Marketing News A monthly department. Brief write-ups of products in test markets plus information about new launches.

Miscellaneous Month Page A Matter of Self-Preservation (Preservatives) Annual Buyer’s Guide Contract Manufacturing/Private Label Directory Inquire Within (Beauty Foods) Niche or Necessity (Wipes) Remedies to the Rescue (OTC skin care) Workhorse Ingredients Trade Association Directory Tried and True (Testing Services)

May Feb. Oct. July Oct. March Sept. Feb. Oct.

89 61 84 64 61 81 69 138 69

Package Design New Packages and new products with brief descriptions of attributes and availability are featured each month in Happi. In addition, these articles in Happi cover a wide range of packaging topics. Month Page Aug. 51 Sept. 86 June 97

Flacons Take Flight Show in Print Thinking About the Box

Patents A monthly department.

Regulations A monthly department.

Soaps and Detergents Month Page Coming Clean

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Loads of Innovation Sink or Swim? Suppliers Remain Optimistic

June Nov. March

61 67 64

Authors/Columnists Month Page Arif, Shoaib Formulating Manual Dishwash Asad, Ra’eda Sustainable Cellulose Derivatives Baenziger, Stefan Unlock the Secrets to Eternal Youth A Helping Hand for Sun Care Birkett, Jill HBA Global Expo Böhme, Corinna, et. al. Smart Foam Control

March

June

Grayson, Suzanne Beauty Stores Reconfigure Dial Up a Winner Origins’ New Plantscription Perricone’s Not So Super

May June April Feb.

60 50 44 42

Jan. March

48 40

Lochhead, Robert Y. Patent Applications for Hair Care Polymers Recent Advances in Skin Care Polymers

Jan. Dec.

Nov. April

89 72

Malihi, Farrokh Iran’s Household Cleaning Market May

April

50

Matthews, Imogen Breakthrough Active Naturals Cosmetic Alternatives

Nov. Jan.

49 38

Sept. July May June Nov. March Aug. Dec. Jan. Feb. April Oct.

42 36 56 46 38 38 36 38 40 44 38 40

July

60

Ortega, Sueli Bel Col Enters Brazil O Boticario Enters Nail Segment Natura’s Newest Product Line Robust Growth for L’Oréal Things of Beauty

Dec. Oct. Aug. June April

44 44 40 48 42

Ropella, Patrick Motivation Secrets On-Boarding Optimize Your Virtual World Prepare the Hiring Team Reduce Hiring Mistakes Visionary Leadership

June April Dec. Oct. Aug. Feb.

54 48 46 50 46 46

Sept. July March May Nov.

50 46 51 74 42

Van Reeth, Isabelle, et al Silicones Meet Global Trends

Feb.

50

Wang, Steven Uncovering Sunscreen Controversies

Jan.

51

118

68 97

80

Dai, Ally Baby Care Cosmeceuticals Demand for Body Care Gains in Skin Care Nutricosmetics Prestige Hair Care

Dec. July May Jan. Sept. March

42 40 66 45 46 44

Dong, Susan Modified Cetyl Betaine

May

120

Edouard, Farahdia, et. al. Versathix

Nov.

92

Jan. Dec. Nov. Oct. March May April June July Aug. Feb. Sept.

36 35 36 38 36 54 36 44 34 34 38 40

Geis, Phil, et. al Microbiological Quality

May

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Geria, Navin Anti-Aging Power of Peptides Cotton Thistle Cytomimic Technology Inflammation Markers of Skin Aging The Truth About Telomeres

Oct. Feb. Aug. June April Dec.

46 40 42 56 46 48

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70

Hession, Colin Are Things Improving in Salons? Tesco Trials Salons

61

Grayson, Bob and Suzanne Permission to Buy Star Products The Decade that Changed Business

May

57

April

Fishman, Harvey All About Hair Amphosol CDB Special Another Natural Preservative HallStar Provides a Boost Hydroquinone Alternative In the Thick of It Mild Surfactant More than Marketing NYSCC Suppliers’ Day There’s Nothing Fishy Think Outside the Bottle Weird Cosmetics

The Return of Fashion

March July Jan.

46 42 48

Middleweek, Katie Accessible Aesthetics AP/Deo Keeps Its Cool Big Gains for Fragrance Body Care Gains Europeans Paint the Town Red Groom for Improvement Hair Care Lacks Luster Keep Smiling Personal Cleansers Saving Face in Europe Sun Care Shines Uncertainty in Spas Neudahl, Gary The Promise Land

Shaath, Nadim FDA: Now You’re Talking! Finally, the Final Rule Five-Star Research In the Sun, In the Dark Under the Microscope…

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December 2011

Financial News

P&G REPORTS 9% SALES GAIN IN FISCAL FIRST QUARTER 2011 •

The Procter & Gamble Company announced that it has delivered strong fiscal first quarter net sales growth of 9% to $21.9 billion. According to the company, organic sales grew 4% behind higher volume and pricing. “The first quarter was a good start to the fiscal year,” said chairman, president and CEO Bob McDonald.“We maintained strong top-line growth momentum in a difficult operating environment. We are well positioned—due to continued topline strength, recently implemented price increases and our productivity improvement and cost savings efforts—to improve earnings growth as we progress through the fiscal year.” Beauty net sales increased 9% to $5.4 billion on unit volume growth of 4%, the company said. Organic sales grew 4%, the ninth consecutive quarter of growth, on 5% organic volume growth. Price increases added 2% to net sales growth. Net earnings declined 12% to $731 million as lower operating margin more than offset the impact of sales growth. Operating margin declined due to a commodity cost driven reduction in gross margin and increased marketing and research and development investments, the company said. Grooming net sales increased 10% to $2.1 billion. Unit volume was in line with prior year. Organic sales were up 3%. Price increases added 2% to net sales growth. Volume grew low single digits in developing regions and decreased low single digits in developed regions. Male grooming volume grew low single digits behind growth of blades and razors in Asia and Latin America, as well as growth behind male personal care products in North America, partially offset by a decrease in blades and razors in Western Europe due to market softness. Appliance volume decreased high single digits due to market contraction in Western Europe and a strong base period for shavers, epilators and hair care appli108 • happi

ances. Net earnings increased 10% to $438 million, in line with net sales growth. Fabric care and home care net sales increased 6% to $6.7 billion. Unit volume decreased 1%, and organic sales increased 1%. Net earnings declined 14% to $805 million, as sales growth was more than offset by operating margin contraction. Operating margin declined primarily due to lower gross margin, as higher commodity costs were only partially offset by price increases and manufacturing cost savings, the company said.

Double Digit Growth At Estée Lauder • The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. reported“outstanding”financial performance for its first quarter ended Sept. 30, 2011, according to the company. Net sales increased 18% to $2.48 billion, while net earnings jumped 46% to $278.6 million. According to Fabrizio Freda, president and chief executive officer, company performance was broad based, highlighted by healthy top line growth across all categories and regions, strong bottom line growth and continued margin expansion. “These results reflect the strength of our brands, the appeal of our superior product innovations and the effectiveness of our focused advertising and marketing spending,” said Freda.“The recent economic uncertainty

The Plantscription line of products from Origins contributed to sales this quarter at Estée Lauder.

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and financial market volatility have not significantly impacted our business. The strength of our underlying fundamentals, our winning strategy and the increasing efficiency of our business model enabled us to significantly outperform the beauty industry and continue to report exceptional results.” The company’s strong performance was due to solid overall business, particularly from its largest brands, helped by a weaker US dollar. It grew double-digits in every region, including the US, its home market. Sales also increased in virtually all product categories within each region. Sales growth was particularly strong in travel retail and emerging markets, along with solid gains in many developed countries. The skin care category gained share during the quarter.The Estée Lauder brand had strong sales from the recent launches of Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator and Idealist Cooling Eye Illuminator.The launch of the reformulated NutritiousVita-Mineral and Resilience Lift lines of products also contributed incremental sales. In Clinique, the successful recent launch of Turnaround Overnight Radiance Moisturizer, as well as higher sales of Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector, contributed to the category’s growth. La Mer generated strong sales growth for the quarter, reflecting the continued success of The Radiant Serum, while the Plantscription line of products by Origins also contributed incremental sales. Makeup net sales growth reflected strong increases, primarily from the company’s makeup artist brands and certain heritage brands. The higher makeup sales reflected increases across a broad range of products, such as the recent launches of new Pure Color eye and lip products and Doublewear Stay-In-Place Makeup SPF 10 from Estée Lauder. Repairwear Laser Focus Makeup and Lid Smoothie Antioxidant 8Hour Eye Colour from Clinique generated solid sales gains. December 2011

Financial News

Incremental fragrance sales were generated from the recent launches of DKNY Golden Delicious, Estée Lauder Sensuous Nude and Coach Poppy Flower. Higher fragrance sales from the Tom Ford and Jo Malone luxury brands, contributed to the category’s growth. Partially offsetting these increases were lower sales of Estée Lauder pleasures bloom, pureDKNY and Coach Poppy. Hair care net sales increased, reflecting an improved retail environment. The increase was primarily due to higher sales from Aveda, which included the recent launch of Be Curly Style-Prep. Bumble and bumble also posted sales growth, reflecting the launch of the Sleek & Straight line of products. Net sales growth in the region was primarily attributable to higher sales in the US, which benefited from a solid retail environment in the prestige area and winning new product offerings from the company. The improvement reflects strong growth from the company’s heritage brands and makeup artist brands. Sales also increased in Canada. The higher sales also reflect strong double-digit gains in Latin America, which benefited from growth in emerging markets, such as Brazil. Double-digit net sales growth was also recorded in a number of other countries, led by the United Kingdom, the Middle East, Germany, France and Italy. The company also generated solid local currency sales growth in this region, with all countries posting increases, except Japan and Australia. The strongest gains were generated in China, Hong Kong, Korea,Taiwan and Thailand, primarily reflecting strong sales of skin care and makeup products. For the full year, net sales are forecasted to grow between 8% and 10% at Estée Lauder.

Business Moves Prove Smart at Colgate • Colgate-Palmolive Company reported worldwide net sales increased 11% to $4.4 billion in third quarter 2011. Operating profit increased 8% to $1.0 billion, while net income rose 4% to $643 million. December 2011

Global unit volume grew 4.5%, pricing increased 2.0% and foreign exchanges was positive 4.5%. According to the company, the Sanex acquisition contributed 2.0% to sales and volume growth. As previously announced, consistent with the company’s focused business strategy, it sold its laundry detergent brands in Colombia during third quarter 2011, resulting in an aftertax gain of $135 million. Ian Cook, chairman, president and chief executive officer, commented on the results. “We are pleased with our strong top and bottom line growth this quarter with worldwide net sales, operating profit, net income and diluted earnings per share all increasing versus year ago, despite very sharp increases in material costs, an intense competitive environment and challenging macroeconomic conditions worldwide.” According to Cook, Colgate’s global market shares in toothpaste and manual toothbrushes are both at record highs year to date. “As we look ahead to 2012, while our global budget process is still in its initial stages and macroeconomic and foreign exchange volatility remain a challenge, we are planning to improve our worldwide market shares and volume growth with advertising support behind many new and existing Colgate products. Consistent with our long-term strategy, our goal is to return to double-digit earnings per share growth in 2012,”he said.

Turmoil Engulfs Avon • While controversy swirls around the company regarding allegations that it broke international bribery laws and fair disclosure in the US, Avon Products, Inc. reported third-quarter 2011 total revenue rose 6% to $2.8 billion. Beauty sales increased 8%, with gains in all categories; fragrance, color, personal care and skin care grew 12%, 9%, 6%, and 2%, respectively. Active representatives were flat in the quarter. By region, third quarter revenue in North America was down 7%. Active representatives were down 9% and units sold declined 8% compared with a year ago, according to the company. happi.com

In Central & Eastern Europe, thirdquarter revenue was up 7%. Benefits from improving trends in active representative growth were offset by weaker average order partly due to the increasingly challenging macroeconomic backdrop in the region. Russia’s sales rose 4%, according to the company. Western Europe, Middle East & Africa’s third-quarter revenue increased 9%, with a significant benefit from a Value Added Tax (VAT) settlement in the UK. Turkey declined 6%, while South Africa rose 29%. Asia Pacific’s thirdquarter revenue was up 1%. Revenue in the Philippines increased 2%, while China declined 6%. Latin America’s third-quarter 2011 revenue was up 11%, as the region’s results were pressured by disruptions in Brazil associated with the Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) implementation. Strong growth continued in other large markets within Latin America. Mexico was up 17%, driven by balanced growth in active representatives. Venezuela was up 22%.

Q1 Sales Rise 6.6% At Elizabeth Arden • Elizabeth Arden, Inc. posted an upswing in its financial results for its first fiscal quarter ended Sept. 30, 2011, as net sales rose 6.6% to $303.5 million. According to the company, net sales of its international business increased by 16.6%, driven by growth in the travel retail and distributor markets and in Asia. Net sales in North America grew by 1.6% and were balanced across the prestige and mass businesses. CEO Scott Beattie commented,“We had another quarter of strong growth for the Elizabeth Arden brand and are progressing with our re-branding initiative.” Global sales of Elizabeth Arden branded products grew by 14% this quarter with sales of the skin care and color cosmetic portfolio increasing by 22%. Sales of Britney Spears and Elizabeth Taylor fragrances also rose by 14% and 16%, respectively. For the second quarter of fiscal 2012, the company is introducing guidance for net sales of $424 million to $434 million, or an increase of 4.5-7.0%. • happi • 109

New Products

SCRUBBING BUBBLES STEPS UP TOILET CLEANING • One of the most dreaded jobs in the home has gone hands-free. Scrubbing Bubbles’ One Step Toilet Bowl Cleaner is a new foot activated, handsfree toilet cleaner that is said to help keep the toilet effortlessly clean for 30 days. The starter kit is $9.99 and refills are $3.99 each. More info: www.scrubbingbubbles.com

MORE HOLIDAY OFFERINGS FOR 2011 Say ‘Buon Giorno!’ to Tocca this Holiday Season • Tocca’s “candy dish” candles ($58) feature a hand-blown

Scrubbing Bubbles One Step Toilet Bowl Cleaner is new to the marketplace.

Baby Magic Expands Line • Baby Magic has added four new

Baby Magic Eczema Balm

SKUs to its baby care line. The new Baby Magic products include a NoRinse Wash, Kids Magic Bubble Bath, Eczema Balm and Medicated Patty Cake. The patented Baby Magic Patty Cake cream-to-powder baby powder is medicated for children with extra sensitive skin. Unlike the original, this Patty Cake is a unique, non-greasy cream-to-powder formula for diaper rash treatment. This effective treatment leaves the baby’s skin smooth and dry, while still being safe for everyday use, according to the firm. More info: www.babymagic.com

glass vessel resting on an antiqued brass stand. The limited edition, hand-poured candles are available at SpaceNK stores nationwide and online in the following scents: Marrakesh, featuring sweet tabak and Tocca’s hand-blown candles vanilla;Venice with a hint of prosecco and white peach bellini; and Cortina, containing the crisp, inviting scent of elemi wood. More info: www.tocca.com

New Colour & Effects Duo from CND • The latest nail lacquer set from CND makes giving the gift of pampering this season easy and affordable.The limited edition Plum Truffle Colour & Effects Duo ($10) features a demure Plum Truffle“Colour”and sparkly fun Plum Truffle“Effect”to add glitz and glam to nails. It is available in salons and professional beauty supply stores. More info: www.cnd.com CND Plum Truffle Colour & Effects Duo

New Products from Algenist •Algenist has expanded its skin care range with a serum, anti-

Three Festive Eyeshadows In Laura Geller’s Palette

aging moisturizer and eye balm. The Targeted Age Correcting Serum ($79) resurfaces skin texture and diminishes age spots; the Regenerative Anti-Aging Lotion ($75) minimizes fine lines while repairing signs of aging; and the Overnight Restorative Cream ($90) is intensive repair treatment that regenerates and restores skin cells overnight. More info: www.algenist.com

•Laura’s Femme Fatale Antique Lace palette ($40), available

Algenist bulked up its anti-aging offerings with these new products.

110 • happi

on QVC and QVC.com, is vintage-inspired and stocked with three of her signature baked shadows. Displayed in a limited-edition, tea-stained, lace-covered compact, each of these smooth-wearing, shimmery shadows delivers on the Laura Geller Makeup Baked promise for perfection—starting as a creamy, multi-tonal liquid pigment and then baked on a terracotta pan for 24 Femme Fatale Antique Lace is new from hours by skilled artisans cosmetics marketer Laura Geller.

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December 2011

New Products

in Italy, according to the company. Colors include ChampagneTopaz, a sparkly crystalline with copper flecks; Rose Gold, a mesmerizing, rosy burnt mauve and Burnished Bronze, a sultry, glittering bronze. More info: www.laurageller.com

EOS Smooth Spheres for the Mistletoe • The new Evolution of Smooth (EOS) Lip Balm Smooth Sphere Holiday Pack (8.99), sold at Walgreen’s, is complete with limited edition Passion Fruit (purple), Strawberry Sorbet (pink) and Sweet Mint (green) USDA-cerEOS Holiday Pack tified organic lip balms. The soft-to-the-touch spheres are ergonomic, recyclable and are easy to find in even the largest of bags, according to the company. More info: www.evolutionofsmooth.com

Weekend Essentials New from Supergoop! •The Supergoop! Weekend Essentials Tote ($39.50) is stocked with TSA approved sunscreens for the holiday traveller. The tote

December 2011

features Supergoop! Sunstick, Lip Balm, Everyday Spray and Sunscreen Swipes. More info: www. supergoop.com Weekend essentials from Supergoop!

Stila Dreams in Full Color •

The Dream in Full Color Palette ($39) from Stila is ideal for creating endless color combinations on the holiday party circuit. The kit features 29 eyeshadow shades, seven cheek colors and a “Smudge Stick” waterproof eyeliner in Stingray. A 16-page artistry look book also provides expert instructions. More info: www.stilacosmetics.com •

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happi • 111

Packaging News

REXAM’S LATEST PACKAGING INNOVATION HAS PANACHE Panache

Call for Entries: 24th DuPont Awards

offers a light

• DuPont Packaging has issued a call

and dry spray.

for entries in the 24th DuPont Awards for Packaging Innovation, the industry’s longest running, independently judged competition. The international jury panel for the 24th DuPont Awards will be headed by Brian Wagner, vice president, PTIS (a HAVI Global Solutions Direct Company). Entries will be evaluated for excellence in packaging innovation, sustainability and cost/waste reduction. Entry forms and guidelines are available at www.packaging.dupont.com. The deadline for entries is Feb. 24, 2012. Packaging designers, converters, consumer goods producers, retailers and equipment manufacturers from around the world are encouraged to enter their new packaging developments. Winners will be announced in May 2012. “Needs for improved sustainability and cost/waste reduction are the key drivers for packaging innovation today,” said Shanna Moore, global director of sustainability, DuPont Packaging. “We look forward to entries that demonstrate excellence in addressing these issues. In order to share learnings about how companies are innovating in response to these needs, we will once again conduct a global online event featuring our winners, who also will be honored in a celebration event with senior DuPont executives.”

• The result of five years of research, Rexam Personal Care introduces Panache, a new “spray experience that delivers a new level of luxury for makers of prestige perfumes as well as other personal care products,” according to the company. Panache technology delivers a continuous and exceptionally airy, light and dry spray.This is the result of intensive research into the art of spray. It enables Rexam to successfully control the size and dispersion of formula particles. Thus the Panache experience communicates purity, opulence and sensuality to the consumer, according to Rexam. Designed to target different markets, Panache spray can handle alcohol-, waterand oil-based formulations, with long smooth actuation and a whisper-quiet sound that exudes quality and captivates consumers. Panache is also kind to the earth. Propellant free, it is a sustainable alternative to aerosols, according to the company. “Panache creates a really new gesture for fragrance: the sensation is like walking through a gentle, deep and long-lasting cloud of fragrance that captivates the senses. It’s an unrivalled experience for consumers,” said Samira Chmiti, product manager, fragrance, Rexam Personal Care Division. More info: www.rexam.com 112 • happi

M&H Plastics and Unilever Work Together for Toni&Guy •Following the acquisition of the Toni&Guy trademark for consumer products by Unilever in 2010, M&H Plastics and Unilever have developed a fashion-inspired collection of hair care and styling products According to the company, the innovative new packaging features a high build varnish printed onto the text to give a high gloss premium embossed effect, which contrasts with the co-ex matte finish of the happi.com

M&H Plastics created a fashionable line of hair care for Unilever and Toni&Guy.

HDPE bottles. All caps are color coordinated and the caps on the 250ml tubular bottles are tampo printed with a crest on the top giving an extra touch of luxury. The collection includes the following products: • 250ml HDPE tubular bottles with double-wall X-press cap; • 200ml, 150ml and 75ml HDPE tubular bottles plus spray/lotion pump; • 50ml HDPE tubular bottles with double wall screw cap; and • 40mm diameter polyethylene tubes. More info: www.mhplastics.com

Topline Optimizes Application Of Maybelline’s Makeup • Topline Products has produced two cosmetic packages for Maybelline that add superior functionality to its product delivery systems, according to the company. Maybelline’s Instant Age Rewind Eraser Treatment Makeup package features a specially designed mechanism engineered by Topline to smoothly deliver the product through the flocked-foam applicator for a quicker and easier application. The system produces a perfectly blended finish, enhancing product performance. The Maybelline eraser treatment “micro fills” and smoothes imperfections on the skin’s surface to create the appearance of a younger looking complexion. A companion piece to the Eraser Treatment Makeup, Maybelline’s Instant Age December 2011

Packaging News

Maybelline tapped Topline for two cosmetic products.

Rewind Eraser Dark Circles Treatment Concealer is a scaled-down version of the“micro-corrector” makeup package but still features the highly functional and technically advanced system engineered by Topline. The size fits the eye contour area perfectly for easy application. More info: www.topline-usa.com

Eyelematic Now Part of Albéa • Albéa, a packager headquartered in France, has acquired Eyelematic, a specialist in metal parts as well as plastic injection, decoration, anodizing and assembly. Eyelematic has three plants located in Connecticut.With the integration of Eyelematic, Albéa now has 34 sites in 13 countries and offers a wide range of packaging solutions for the makeup, skin care, perfume and oral care sector. More info: www.www.albea-group.com

Crystal Ball Dispenser Caps Easy open and close Looks good on many containers Push-pull or non push-pull Variety of colors 24/410 neck finish Call for other caps & closures

Lumson Acquires PMP Ltd. • Lumson Corporation has acquired PMP Ltd., an Italian company specializing in the production and decoration of plastic bottles in materials such as PE, PP, PETG, PVC and PET. With this latest acquisition, Lumson gives birth to the Lumson Packaging Industries Group. The company says that it can offer a complete range of packaging products entirely designed, developed, manufactured and decorated in Italy in its two production sites of Crema and Venice. According to the company, the transaction represents an important step for Lumson—it will now be able to enlarge its range of standard products and be able to offer a more efficient service for the development of custom projects. More info: www.lumson.com, www.pmpplastics.com

Fusion Creates 50ml Airless For Mary Kay • Fusion Packaging has designed and developed a distinctive package for Mary Kay. According to the company, it worked with Mary Kay to create a 50ml airless bottle for two SKUs launching within its flagship product line, Timewise. The result was a simple, yet modern polypropylene bottle and flush fit polypropylene actuator. The unique actuator does not require an overcap, allowing the consumer to open and close with a simple twist of the collar. “This project was a great collaboration between two companies who understand their business,” said Lesley Gadomski, vice president of sales, Fusion Packaging, Dallas, TX. “Mary Kay knew exactly what form and function they desired for this package and found the perfect match in our concept catalog,”she added. More info: www.fusionpkg.com • Fusion Packaging recently worked with Mary Kay.

December 2011

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-JODPMO "WF t 1BTBEFOB $" JOGP!QFBSDFQMBTUJDTDPN t XXXQFBSDFQMBTUJDTDPN

626-797-8481 happi • 113

Supplier’s Corner

CHIONE HD PIGMENTS BY BASF PROVIDE BRIGHT, CLEAN COLOR • Combining the best of high chroma and high purity, Chione pigments from BASF provide a clean, bright color, according to the company. When there is an up-close focus with high definition (HD), the zoom-in factor reveals a unique colorspace and exceptional quality, said BASF. With a particle size of 14 microns, HD colors are ideal for face, lip and eye cosmetics. More info: [email protected] Rhodia Showcases Its Range Of Surfactants and Polymers • A major player in specialty chemicals, Rhodia has a vast range of products in the home care (hard surface cleaning, laundry and fabric care), industrial and institutional and personal care markets. While participating at the Sepawa Congress and Detergents Conference Oct. 12-14 in Fulda, Germany with partner Harke Clean Care, the Rhodia showcased the following ingredients: • Repel-O-Tex Crystal: A new polymer additive in the Repel-O-Tex soil release polymer range, it is targeted at liquid detergents, enabling the formulation of crystal clear products. Repel-O-Tex Crystal boosts cleaning and prevents soil re-deposition making future cleaning and maintenance of whiteness of fabrics much easier. • Mackam and Mirataine (sultaines): Rhodia’s Mackam and Mirataine sultaines are versatile and flexible, making them the ideal universal amphoteric surfactant to use in mild personal cleansing formulations. They provide superior flash foam and foam quality over betaines while maintaining a preservative-free profile. • Mirapol Surf-S P-free Powder: A powder of acrylic based polymer on Na2CO3 used in phosphate-free tablets for automatic dishwashes, it is an innovative polymer that provides formulators with a cost effective rinse aid solution by replac114 • happi

ing the nonionic surfactants and salt. It avoids dried spots and streaks on washed dishes by preventing water beading, according to the company. More info: www.rhodia.com

Imitate a Good Night’s Sleep with Prodizia • Sleep is a simple secret to beautiful skin…but our hectic lives often rule the rest routine. The lack of sleep creates stressful conditions that raise the level of internal toxins, one of which being glycotoxins. Glycotoxins deregulate the skin’s natural systems responsible for the repair and protection processes that occur during sleep; consequently, this deregulation contributes to impaired cell function, tissue disruption and damaged microvessels. With Prodizia, Sederma provides a solution that promotes a visible reduction in the cutaneous signs of fatigue: dark circles, under eye bags, dull complexion and drawn features. By supporting specific detoxifying systems (glyoxalase and proteasome), Prodizia can both protect and repair the proteic structures damaged by glycation. Furthermore, Prodizia helps regulate melatonin levels of glycation-stressed skin cells, ensuring an optimal repair process during sleep. This, along with its ability to help fight against glycation during the day and repair proteic structures damaged by glycation during the night, makes it perfect for a 24hour treatment, according to the company. More info: (33) 134841010,sederma@ sederma.fr, www.sederma.fr. In the US, [email protected], www.crodausa.com

Cosmetochem Launches New Botanical Active • New from Cosmetochem International AG, UsNeo addresses the growing trend for effective, plant-based actives. Derived from the alpine lichen, Usnea barbata, and with in vitro and in vivo claims data, it suphappi.com

UsNeo is a naturally effective deodorant and antibacterial ingredient.

ports customers wishing to take a natural approach, according to the company. It has the following properties: • Active against body odor-forming bacteria; • Preserves normal skin flora; • Plant-derived solvent; • Naturally-derived complexing agent from molasses; • Preservative-free; and • Not tested on animals. More info: www.cosmetochem.com

Presperse Signs Deal with ABT • Looking to boost its portfolio, Presperse Corporation has entered into a distribution agreement with Aqua Bio Technologies ASA (ABT) of Norway. ABT develops and produces patented ingredients and technologies based on extensive research and development, according to the company. Its novel marine active ingredients are derived from the pure and protected environment of Northern waters. ABT’s flagship ingredient, Aquabeautine XL, is a patented marine solution that adds moisture and improves the renewal of skin cells. The first self-limiting enzyme of its kind, it is also proven to deliver antiaging effects in vivo. It is targeted for use in anti-aging products, spa/cosmeceutical SKUs as well as products for sensitive skin. “Aquabeautine XL represents a unique and extraordinary market opportunity,” December 2011

Supplier’s Corner

stated Greg Torchiana, CEO, Presperse Corporation.“By bringing together ABT’s innovative ingredient and Presperse’s significant market access and formulation expertise, Aquabeautine XL will be made available to all the leading personal care companies looking to develop a new generation of skin care products and solutions. We are thrilled to have been selected as their exclusive North American distribution partner.” More info: www.presperse.com

Croda Launches Hair Damage Guide • The effects of damaged tresses can include frizz, breakage, dullness and hair that is difficult to comb and style. Causes can be categorized as mechanical, chemical, environmental, thermal or aging. However, while hair damage cannot be entirely avoided, steps can be taken to prevent, and even correct, damage on tresses. The first step in trying to address the causes of hair damage is to better understand how it occurs and what is happening to the fibers. Croda has launched an interactive, electronic Hair Damage Guide that explores the many types of hair damage, explains how each occurs and demonstrates how these types of damage can be duplicated in a laboratory setting, according to the company. In addition, proven solutions for preventing and reversing hair damage are described in terms of science and consumer perception to allow formulators of hair care products to better, and more fully, understand hair damage. The Hair Damage Guide is fully integrated into Croda’s website, which gives customers unlimited access to product information, formulas designed to assist them with their projects, and easy access to samples of products proven to prevent or correct hair damage. The guide can be accessed from www.croda.com/na/pc/hairdamageguide after logging in to Croda’s extranet. To better assist formulators with understanding hair damage, Croda also hosted a live web seminar,“Hair Damage: WhatYou Need to Know,”on Sept. 7, 2011.This presentation further explained many of the topDecember 2011

ics in the Hair Damage Guide and even included a tutorial on how to access this tool on Croda’s website. The recording of this web seminar is available for customers to watch on demand there. More info: www.croda.com/na/pc

Natural Plant Products Debuts Daikon Radish Oil • Odorless and extremely light-colored, Natural Plant Products has released Daikon Radish Oil (DRO). This unique triglyceride is derived from the seeds of commercial daikon radish fields planted by the farmer owners of OMG, the same cooperative that commercialized meadowfoam seed oil. The oil is mechanically extracted and refined by Natural Plant Products’ manufacturing partners. The value of DRO is found in its novel chemistry, according to the company. Like meadowfoam seed oil and Meadowfoam CP, its fatty acid composition differs greatly from the C16 and C18 dominated fatty acid composition that typifies so many edible and cosmetic grade oils. It is composed of an atypical mixture of C18, C20, and C22 fatty acids, and offers a new chemistry to formulators. The oil imparts a delicate slip with good absorption, and presents a sensory profile more closely associated with esters and silicone type emollients. Natural Plant Products has conducted a spreading test, which has confirmed that DRO behaves like a triglyceride on the skin despite its ester-like feel. A transepidermal water loss study also revealed that Daikon Radish Oil significantly improved barrier function in comparison to isopropyl palmitate at all measurement intervals between 30 minutes and four hours post application. The same study revealed that Daikon Radish Oil showed the same barrier improvement function as well-known cosmetic emollients such as Meadowfoam Seed Oil and 100 cps dimethicone. More info: www.meadowfoam.com

Avenacare Shows Positive Results in Study • Clinical studies carried out using Avenacare, an oat beta glucan product from happi.com

Swedish company Biovelop AB, have shown very positive results, according to the company. A study was conducted by an independent, US-based testing laboratory to investigate the ability of Avenacare to increase tensile hair strength. David Peters, director of sales and marketing for Biovelop, commented:“The successful completion of this clinical study provides scientific substantiation relating to the use of Avenacare oat beta glucan in hair care. Avenacare offers a natural and costeffective way to incorporate the hairstrengthening properties of oat beta glucan into a wide range of hair care products.” More info: www.avenacare.com

DeWolf Chemical To Distribute for BASF • DeWolf Chemical, Inc. was appointed as the sole Northeastern and Mid-Atlantic US distributor for BASF Corporation, effective Jan. 1, 2012. According to the company, states encompassed in this agreement include: NewYork, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Connecticut, Maryland, Delaware, Massachusetts, Rhode Island and Maine. In addition to the current personal care product portfolios of Cognis Care Chemicals, DeWolf Chemical will additionally be representing the legacy BASF personal care ingredients and Ciba Geigy personal care ingredients. The chemistry range under these portfolios includes the following ingredient categories: active ingredients, antimicrobials, emulsifiers, hair conditioning polymers, hair fixative polymers, NF grade PEGs, polymeric thickeners, solublizers, surfactants, skin care film forming polymers and UV filters and stabilizers. Products within these categories range from retinol to Pluracare to Salcare. “DeWolf’s appointment as the exclusive distributor for BASF in the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic is a strong testament to our synergistic sales, marketing, operations and customer service teams’ capabilities,” said Hank DeWolf, company CEO. “And with these new lines, we will be able to better serve our customers’formulation needs.” More info: (401) 434-3515 or email [email protected]. • happi • 115

Meetings

SCC ANNUAL MEETING IS DEC. 8-9 IN NEW YORK Dec. 5: CDR Seminar Series: Francois Berthiaume, Ph.D., Improved Matrices for Dermal Regeneration, Center for Dermal Research, Rutgers University Life Sciences Building Auditorium, Piscataway, NJ. More info: www.njbiomaterials.org

Dec. 7: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Continuing Education Courses, Ethnic Product Relaxer Formulation: a New Technological Approach and Innovation in Personal Care Products, Hilton NewYork, NewYork City. More info: www.scconline.org

Dec. 7-9: 2011 ScentWorld Expo, Gansevoort Hotel, Miami Beach, Florida. More info: http://scentmarketing.org

Dec. 8-9: Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Meeting, NewYork Hilton, New York, NY. More info: www.scconline.org

Major Meetings at a Glance Dec. 8-9: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Meeting, New York Hilton, NewYork, NY. More info: www.scconline.org

2012 Jan. 30-Feb. 4: The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) Annual Meeting, Grand Lakes Marriott, Orlando, FL. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

Feb. 22-24: Personal Care Products Council Annual Meeting, The Ritz-Carlton, Naples, FL. More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org

April 17-19: In-Cosmetics 2012, Hall 2, Gran Via, Fira Barcelona, Spain. More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

May 8-11: Personal Care Products Council Legal & Regulatory Conference, Charleston Place, Charleston, SC. More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org

May 15-16: New York Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day, The New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center, Raritan Center, Edison, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org

Dec. 10-13: International Conference & Exhibition on Soaps, Detergents and Cosmetics, Nehru Centre, Mumbai, India.

May 31-June 1: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Scientific Seminar 2012, Charleston Marriott, Charleston, SC.

More info: www.isdconference.com

More info: www.scconline.org

Dec. 13: Center for Dermal Research Webinar with Dr. William Welsh, Ph.D., UMDNJ. More info: www.njbiomaterials.org

Dec. 14: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Networking Luncheon, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, NewYork, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com

Dec. 14-16: In-Cosmetics Asia, Bangkok, Thailand.

June 19-21: HBA Global Expo, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, NewYork City. More info: www.hbaexpo.com

Oct. 15-18: International Federation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) 27th Congress, South Africa. More info: www.ifscc2012.co.za

Feb. 8-9: PCD and Aerosol & Dispensing Forum, Paris, France. More info: www.pcd-congress.com

Gran Via, Fira Barcelona, Spain. More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

April 28-30: The 13th China Surfactant and Detergent Exhibition, Shanghai Everbright Convention Center, China.

More info: www.in-cosmeticsasia.com

Feb. 22-24: Personal Care Products Council Annual Meeting, The Ritz-Carlton, Naples, FL.

2012

More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org

May 2-3: Supply Line 2012,Atlantic City, NJ.

Jan. 24-26: VISION Consumer Products Conference, Hotel Intercontinental, New Orleans, LA.

March 20-22: Cleaning Products Europe 2012, Crowne Plaza, St. Peters Hotel, Rome, Italy.

More info: Pat Koziol, [email protected]

More info: www.inda.org

More info: www.cleaningproductseurope.com

Jan. 30-Feb. 4: The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) Annual Meeting, Grand Lakes Marriott, Orlando, FL

April 3-4: Luxe Pack Shanghai, Shanghai Convention Center, China. More info: www.luxepack.com

May 10-12: North American Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, NewYork, NY.

More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

April 17-19: In-Cosmetics 2012, Hall 2,

More info: sustainablecosmeticssummit.com•

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More info: www.iesexpo.com

May 8-11: Personal Care Products Council Legal & Regulatory Conference, Charleston Place, Charleston, SC. More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org

December 2011

SCC News

SCS’ ‘PRINCIPLES & PRACTICE’ COURSE IS MARCH 11-16, 2012 •

The Society of Cosmetic Scientists will hold “Principles and Practice of Cosmetic Science,” March 11-16, 2012 at the Wessex Hotel in Bournemouth, UK. The interactive residential course has been serving the industry for more than 40 years. This year, 16 experts will provide the latest on topics relevant to the market. Among the scheduled lectures are:“Product Development,”by Dr. Ged O’Shea of The Boots Company plc; “ Product Advertising and Claim Support” by Steve Barton of Oriflame Research and Development Ltd; “Quality/GMP,” by Neil Jarvis of The Body Shop International plc; “Cosmetic Colours, Dental & APD Products” by Dr. Tony Morton, also of the The Body Shop; and“Packaging”by Anne Emblem of the London College of Fashion. Other topics will include project management, skin/skin care products, naturals, safety, processing, hair/hair products and preservation. More info: www.scs.org.uk

Registration Opens For 27th IFSCC Congress • Registration is now open for the 27th International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Congress, which will be held Oct. 15-18, 2012 in Johannesburg, South Africa. More info: [email protected]; www.ifscc2012.co.za

SCC Meetings Dec. 7: SCC Continuing Education Course, Ethnic Product/Relaxer Formulation: a New Technological Approach, Hilton NewYork. More info: www.scconline.org Dec. 7: SCC Continuing Education Course, Innovation in Personal Care Products, Hilton NewYork. More info: www.scconline.org. Dec. 8-9: SCC Annual Scientific Meeting December 2011

The instructor is Philip Klepak, director technical services worldwide for the AP business of Summit Research Labs, Inc. His past experience includes product/process development at P&G, J&J, Shulton and American Home Products/Wyeth (now Pfizer). More info: www.scconline.org

SCC Journal Seeks Manuscripts • The Society of Cosmetic Chemists is

SCC has planned a course on APs and deodorants.

No Sweat! AP/DEO Technology Course Is Jan. 25. • The Society of Cosmetic Chemists will hold continuing education course on antiperspirant and deodorant technology on Jan. 25, 2012 at the Sheraton Newark Airport hotel in Newark, NJ. The course is intended for both entry-level development personnel as well as experienced individuals who want an up-to-date refresher on regulations, formulations and processing for this FDA regulated product. & Technology Showcase, NewYork Hilton. More info: www.scconline.org Dec. 20: Twin Cities Chapter Holiday Party. More info: www.tccscc.org

2012 Jan. 4: New York Chapter Monthly Meeting, Seasons, Washington Twp., NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org Jan. 25: Continuing Education Course—Antiperspirant & Deodorant Technology, happi.com

soliciting scientific manuscripts concerned with cosmetics or the sciences underlying cosmetics, as well as papers of interest to the cosmetic industry for publication in the Journal of Cosmetic Science, its official journal. The publication will consider manuscripts for publication in the following categories, providing they are prepared in proper scientific style and adequately referenced: • Original Articles • Review Articles • Technical Notes • General Articles • Preliminary Communications • Letters to the Editor Manuscripts submitted for publication should include a cover letter addressed to the editor and be sent to: Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 120 Wall Street, Suite 2400, New York, NY 10005-4088; Fax: (212) 6681504; E-mail: [email protected]. More info: www.scconline.org •

Sheraton Newark Airport Hotel, Newark, NJ. More info: wwwscconline.org Feb. 9: Society of Cosmetic Scientists joint lecture with the British Society of Perfumers, Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, London. More info: www.scs.org.uk Feb. 15: Continuing Education Course— cGMPs for Cosmetics, Sheraton Newark Airport Hotel, Newark, NJ. More info: wwwscconline.org happi • 117

Personnel Roundup

LIPO CHEMICALS APPOINTS CLEMENTS VP-GLOBAL MARKETING • Lipo Chemicals Inc.: welcomed Nancy Clements as vice president global marketing. In this role, she will lead worldwide initiatives to develop and implement Lipo’s new business growth strategies, driving growth in core markets. Clements joins Lipo with more than 25 years of experience in the personal care and chemical industries. Most recently, she was at TRI/Princeton and previously at ISP as global marketing director, personal care where she advanced steadily over an 11-year career.

• Beiersdorf: appointed Stefan F. Heidenreich to its executive board effective Jan. 1, 2012. He will take over as CEO following the annual general meeting on April 26, 2012. Thomas-B. Quaas, who has been CEO of Beiersdorf since 2005, will remain in office until the end of the annual general meeting, after which the plan is for him to be elected to the supervisory board. He has been with Stefan F. Heidenreich the firm for 33 years. Heidenreich has been CEO of the international Hero Group since 2002. He will leave that post on Dec. 31.

• Original & Mineral (O&M): welcomed industry veteran Jason Sherwood as North American sales director. According to the company, he will spearhead O&M’s entry into the US and Canada, targeting top salons across North America. Sherwood will also oversee the North American development of O&M’s hair care, styling and professional color lines. Based in southern California, Sherwood is a native Australian and has more than 15 years experience growing high-end boutique hair and beauty brands in the US, having previously worked for Italian firm Davines. Recently, he’s helped expand the footprint of some of Australia’s top-tier hair salons. • Avon Products, Inc.: named Fernando J. Acosta as president, Latin America, effective Dec. 1. He will report to Charles Herington, EVP, developing market group, and serve on Avon’s executive committee. Acosta joins Avon after 19 years at Unilever, where he advanced through a series of senior operating positions with increasing responsibility in Latin America, Europe, Asia and the US. His career portfolio includes an impressive track record of building and managing consumer-focused businesses in developed, developing and emerging markets. He also has had operating responsibility for some of Unilever’s most prominent brand names, including Dove, Axe, Ponds and Rexona. Most recently, Acosta served as SVP for Unilever in the Middle Americas based 118 • happi

in Colombia, with responsibility for the company’s personal care, home care, food and beverage businesses spanning nine countries in Latin America.

• Estée Lauder: named Richard Ferretti to the position of senior vice president, global creative director, Estée Lauder. In this role, he will oversee all creative and visual aspects of the Estée Lauder brand globally, including TV, digital and print advertising, packaging, visual merchandising and store design. For the past two years, he served as creative director of the Coach and Reed Krakoff brands. At Coach, Ferretti was responsible for directing the global image of the brand’s leather goods and fragrances through advertising, catalogs, digital assets and retail stores in key markets such as the US, UK, China and Japan, and incorporating the Coach heritage in a visually-compelling way. At Reed Krakoff, he was responsible for the creative development and visual imagery that launched the brand in 2010. • Paciﬁc Sands, Inc.: named Peggy Stover as its new vice president of marketing and sales. Stover, prior to joining Pacific Sands, was the director of marketing and sales for Soy Basics, a maker of soy candles. Prior to that post, she worked as a senior executive of marketing and sales for Kraft Foods, SC Johnson Wax and Coors Brewing Company. In her new role, she will be in charge of brand development, marketing strategy and creating a sales representative network for the brand portfolio that includes Natural Choice cleaners. • CPL Aromas: welcomed Jim Dunsdon as non-executive director to the main board of the company. According to the company, he has vast knowledge of the fragrance industry having started in the business as a chemist for Bush Boake Allen in 1969. Since then, he has occupied many other senior positions within the flavor and fragrance industry. Jim Dunsdon Dunsdon is a past president of the BFA and a former board member of IOFI, IFRA and RIFM as well as several charities. In 2008, he retired from IFF, where he had held the position of chief operating officer.

• Paradigm Science: added Don DeLorenzo as regional sales manager responsible for personal care customers in Connecticut, New Jersey, New York and Pennsylvania. His responsibilities include supporting current sales as well as developing new partnerships with customers.

happi.com

December 2011

Personnel Roundup

Stu Maisel

• Menasha Packaging: promoted Stu Maisel to sales manager for its Yukon, PA complex. He was most recently retail integration director at the company’s Philadelphia Complex. He has more than 20 years of experience in the retail packaging and display industry, having held positions with successive responsibility at Cormark, Inc., Trans World Marketing, Array Marketing and DIAM USA.

• Spectra Colors: tapped Ray McCreary as chief operating officer. He founded Paragon Household Products and built the company from the ground up for 14 years. McCreary created a nationally recognized brand for a mothball product, and more importantly, developed the lowest cost manufacturing capability for this product globally. Prior to founding Paragon, McCreary was with many leading multinational companies throughout his career, where he held leading roles within operations, finance, joint venture management and capital planning, achieving increasing responsibility with each role.

• Energizer Holdings: appointed Mark S. LaVigne as general

December 2011

counsel, effective upon the retirement of Gayle G. Stratmann, vice president and general counsel. She will retire from Energizer in the first half of 2012. LaVigne joined Energizer in 2010, and has served as secretary and assistant general counsel. He came to Energizer from Bryan Cave LLP, where he was a partner.

• Kiss My Face: named Steve Michaelson as chief executive officer. He has held leadership positions at a diverse set of retailers, including chief marketing officer at Supervalu, CEO of internet retailer Fresh Direct and as senior vice president of Wegmans. In addition to retailing, Michaelson has extensive experience in brand and product management with companies such as Sara Lee Corporation and Procter & Gamble.

• Living Proof: appointed Grace Ray as chief marketing officer, overseeing the global product strategy, brand development and strategic marketing functions for the company. She was most recently the vice president of global marketing for Smashbox Cosmetics. Ray has also had extensive leadership experience from past senior positions with L’Oréal Paris and Nestle. She will report directly to Jon Flint, co-founder and CEO of Living Proof and co-founder of PolarisVenture Partners, the company’s lead investor. •

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Industry News

L'ORÉAL USA TO ACQUIRE DEVICE MAKER CLARISONIC

L'Oréal USA is buying the firm behind Clarisonic.

•L’Oréal USA is acquiring Paciﬁc Bioscience Laboratories, Inc. (PBL), maker of Clarisonic, a market leader in the rapidly growing area of skin care devices. Financial terms were not announced. Established in 2001, PBL developed its patented technology, enabling a series of highly popular products under the Clarisonic brand, including the Clarisonic Classic, Clarisonic Mia, Clarisonic Plus and Pro, and the Clarisonic Opal Sonic Infusion System. The firm recorded sales of $105 million in fiscal 2010.

“This is a strategic acquisition for L’Oréal,”said Frédéric Rozé, president and CEO of L’Oréal USA.“Devices are rapidly emerging globally as an important new skin care category. Clarisonic is successful and the fast growing premium brand in this segment. We think that together with PBL, we will create in Redmond an outstanding center of innovation for L’Oréal. Upon closing of the transaction, the Clarisonic brand will join the portfolio of L’Oréal Luxe and benefit from its worldwide presence.” PBL has grown rapidly since the Clarisonic launch in 2004. The company’s distribution network covers six channels: dermatologists and cosmetic surgeons, spas, prestige retail, e-tail, television shopping and online. The firm has 300 employees and recently relocated to a new corporate headquarters and manufacturing facility in Redmond, WA. “L’Oréal brings powerful marketing, distribution, and R&D synergy to the Clarisonic agenda,” said David Giuliani, CEO

Evelyn Lauder Passes at 75 • Evelyn H. Lauder, senior corporate vice and head of fragrance development worldwide for The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc., died at the age of 75 from complications of non-genetic ovarian cancer. Mrs. Lauder passed on Nov. 12, at her home in New York City with her family by her side. She is survived by her family—husband Leonard A. Lauder, chairman emeritus of the Estée Lauder Companies; son William, executive chairman of the Estée Lauder Companies; son Gary, managing director of Lauder Partners LLC, and his wife Laura, general partner of Evelyn Lauder Lauder Partners; and five grandchildren. “My mother carried the torch of our company heritage and the values that were passed to her by my grandmother, Mrs. Estée Lauder,” said William Lauder. “My mother and father were life partners as well as business partners. They nurtured the culture and growth of the Estée Lauder Companies, and as we grew, my mother was our creative compass and pillar of strength. Together my family and the Company celebrate the beautiful person she was.” 120 • happi

and co-founder of PBL.“L’Oréal shares our vision for ingenuity and dedication to quality. Combining forces, we’re confident Clarisonic will rapidly achieve its global mission, to provide the power to change the future of your skin.” The merger, subject to the approval of PBL’s shareholders and other closing conditions, is expected to close this month.

Kao Brands Announces Name Change •Effective Jan. 1, 2012, Kao Brands Company will operate as Kao USA, Inc. This is part of a larger repositioning effort by Kao Brands’parent company, Kao Corporation, a leading manufacturer of beauty and household products with headquarters in Tokyo. As announced by Motoki Ozaki, Kao’s president and CEO, beginning in January, Kao’s beauty care subsidiaries in North America and Europe will operate as unified organizations in the major countries in which they operate.

Born in Vienna, Austria, her parents fled from Europe with her during the Nazi occupation. She married Leonard A. Lauder in 1959 and joined the family business. Lauder had many roles including serving as new product director and as marketing director. Her teaching background was an excellent springboard for one of her earliest contributions, the creation of the company’s brand training programs. She also measured color standards in makeup, sold products in stores, and made numerous personal appearances. When the company began creative work on what became Clinique in 1968, Mrs. Lauder thought of the name Clinique and became the first to wear the now ubiquitous Clinique white lab coat after she was named the brand’s first training director. In 1989, Lauder assumed the role of senior corporate VP and head of fragrance development worldwide. Her love of gardening and flowers served as inspiration as she designed new fragrances. She led the development of the company’s most globally successful fragrances, including the best-selling Beautiful and Pleasures. Lauder was perhaps best known to the public for her work in bringing global awareness to women’s health, a passion that stemmed from a personal experience with early stage breast cancer. In 1992, she cocreated the Pink Ribbon, now recognized as the worldwide symbol of breast health, and launched the Estée Lauder Companies Breast Cancer Awareness (BCA) Campaign.

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December 2011

Industry News

Ozaki stated that the global management approach will give Kao more leverage in key markets, and enable Kao to better utilize its combined experience and resources to accelerate the growth of the Kao group in the US and worldwide. Bill Gentner, Kao Brands president and CEO explains,“The alignment with Kao’s beauty care business will provide us with an opportunity to better harness Kao’s global scale and resources for the benefit of consumers and customers in the North American and European markets. It will also provide more career opportunities for people both locally and internationally.”

Paradigm Science Links With Vege Tech, Unipex •Paradigm Science, Annandale, NJ, is now responsible for Vege Tech sales in the northeastern US. Vege Tech Company makes ingredient for cosmetic, cosmeceutical, health and beauty, and household product industries. The firm utilizes a variety of extraction processes such as enzymatic and cold process, which yield the highest active levels of desired molecules that benefit the formulation’s efficacy. In addition, Paradigm Science will represent Unipex Innovations’ natural actives in Connecticut, Pennsylvania, New Jersey and NewYork. Unipex Innovations, Quebec, Canada, is the business unit of the Unipex Group, which develops, manufactures and markets innovative active ingredients for the cosmetics and personal care industries. Its line is mainly composed of extracts from natural marine and botanical substances, biomimetic peptides and biotech actives. Some of Unipex’s biotechnology products are derived from a molecular separation platform and manufactured in its laboratories in compliance with the highest standards. More info: www.paradigmscience.com. Former Unilever Chairman Morris Tabaksblat Dies •Morris Tabaksblat, a former chairman of Unilever, passed away after a long illness. He was 74. December 2011

Tabaksblat joined Unilever as a trainee in 1964 and went on to have a long and distinguished career with the company. After spells working for Unilever in the Netherlands, Spain, Brazil and North America, he became chairman of Unilever in 1994, five years before his retirement.

Nu Skin Acquires Genomics Firm •Nu Skin Enterprises, Inc. is acquiring LifeGen Technologies, LLC, a Madison, WIbased genomics company, for $11.6 million. The letter of intent includes the acquisition of substantially all of the assets of LifeGen, including its tissue bank, proprietary gene expression database, patents and intellectual property related to gene research. In connection with the transaction, the company will also enter into consulting agreements with LifeGen co-founders, Richard Weindruch and Tomas Prolla, and the two will continue to serve on the Nu Skin Anti-aging Scientific Advisory Board. “Our acquisition of LifeGen will further solidify the competitive advantage Nu Skin enjoys with our ageLOC anti-aging platform with exclusive access to LifeGen’s breakthrough work on genetic sources of aging,”said Nu Skin’s CEO Truman Hunt. “The acquisition also makes financial sense as we will no longer incur royalty obligations on products developed with LifeGen’s assistance. “Overall, we believe that this acquisition of LifeGen will enhance our pipeline of next-generation anti-aging products for many years to come, allowing us to provide a steady stream of innovative anti-aging solutions aimed at helping people live younger, longer,”Hunt said. “LifeGen truly is a unique resource in the battle against aging,”said Dr. Joseph Chang, Nu Skin’s chief scientific officer.“Its extensive database of genetic tissue information related to the aging process and its proprietary algorithm provide the unique ability to identify aging-related genes. Few labs in the world can match this capability. We are delighted to welcome the LifeGen team to our own team of world-class scientists.” Nu Skin began collaborating with Lifehappi.com

Gen in 2009, and since that time, LifeGen’s proprietary genetic science has supported Nu Skin’s“super class”of anti-aging products, including the company’s most recent introduction of the ageLOC R2 nutritional supplement.

The Benchmarking Company Is Now The Beauty Company •The Benchmarking Company has changed its name to The Beauty Company (TBC). The firm was founded in 2007 with the publication of Alisa Marie Beyer’s first PinkReport. Along with a new name, Beyer also announced recent promotions and hires. Team members Kate Helfrich and Martha Kepner were promoted to executive levels within the organization and Katherine Sutton and Elizabeth Pharis were hired as associate and executive assistant, respectively.

Pacific World Corp. Acquires W.E. Bassett Company •Paciﬁc World Corporation, a supplier of proprietary nail and beauty care products worldwide, has merged with The W.E. Bassett Company, a deal that the two firms say creates the fifth largest cosmetics company and second largest nail care company by sales in food, drug, and mass retailers nationwide. Pacific World was founded in 1973 and entered the nail care market with the Nailene brand in 1983. In 1995, Pacific World expanded its business to include international markets. In 2002, Pacific World signed a license agreement with Revlon for the Artificial Nail business, which later was expanded to include Revlon-branded false eyelashes. Pacific World launched geoGiRL Cosmetics in February 2011 and has been the exclusive marketing/sales distributor of Bio-Oil in the US since 2007. Started in 1947 by William E. Bassett with the Trim product line, W.E. Bassett has grown to include more than 900 quality products. Bassett Products are sold in more than 60,000 retail outlets in more than 74 countries around the world. The deal with The W.E. Bassett Comhappi • 121

Industry News

pany completes a series of four acquisitions/mergers aimed to broaden Pacific World’s global scope.

InterCharm Milano Attracts 28,000 •There were 28,161 visitors, comprising sector professionals and operators from 78 countries, crowding the aisles at the second edition of InterCharm Milano, which was held at fieramilanocity in late September. The event surpassed even the most optimistic expectations, with a growth rate of more than 40% compared to last year’s edition, significantly doubling the number of foreign visitors. An important contribution in attendance was also made by international delegations adhering to the“Meet the Buyer”program, according to show organizers, Reed. One-to-one appointments more than doubled reaching a total of 495 meetings between 83 exhibiting companies and 19 buyers from important international markets such as Bulgaria, Canada, Georgia, Middle East, North Africa, Norway, Holland, the Baltic countries, Poland, Romania, Russia, Sweden, Turkey, and the US, according to Reed. New to this year’s edition were daily formation and information sessions as part of the Beauty Congress Plans are underway for the next edition, which will be held Oct. 6-8, 2012. More info: [email protected]

Solazyme, Unilever Expand Relationship •Solazyme, Inc., a South San Franciscobased renewable oil and bioproducts company—which also sells its own skin care line called Algenist—has expanded its relationship with Unilever. The commercial development agreement, which is funded by Unilever, expands the companies’current research and development efforts and is the fourth agreement the parties have entered into. Upon completion of the development agreement and related activities, Unilever has agreed to purchase commercial quantities of Solazyme’s renewable oils. “Unilever’s commitment to help develop products formulated with Solazyme renewable oils represents a milestone in the market validation of our tailored oil technology,” said Jonathan Wolfson, CEO, Solazyme.“Our technology platform presents a unique opportunity for Unilever to develop innovative, new products with enhanced consumer benefits while advancing their Sustainable Living Plan. Unilever has consistently led the consumer goods industry towards greater sustainability and our technology, coupled with Unilever’s scale and reach, creates a compelling opportunity to improve product quality while facilitating sustainable living.” According to Neal Matheson, Unilever’s chief technology officer, Unilever is committed to sourcing 100% of its agricultural

Former IFSCC President Wiechers Dies •Johann Wiechers died Nov. 5 in an hospital in Kuala Lumpu, after being struck by a deadly form of pneumonia. Despite heroic attempts from the medical staff in the hospital to save his life, he died, surrounded by his family, just six days after falling ill. A pharmacist by training, Wiechers finished his Ph.D. in 1989 at the University of Groningen, The Netherlands, on the subject of skin penetration enhancement. Following six years at Unilever Research in the UK, he joined Uniqema in Gouda, The Netherlands, in 1995 where he had global responsibility for the company’s skin R&D as its skin R&D director. In April 2007, he was appointed visiting professor at the University of London, School of Pharmacy, Brunswick Square, London. In July 2007, Wiechers started his own company JW Solutions as an independent consultant for cosmetic science. His main interests were cosmetic claim substantiation, non-invasive 122 • happi

raw materials sustainably by 2020. Initially, the two parties will continue focusing innovation efforts on the production of tailored oils for use in soap and personal care product applications, while committing additional efforts to developing new tailored oils for use in other applications. Since 2009, the two companies have been collaborating on the research and development of tailored oils utilizing Solazyme’s technology platform and Unilever’s broad knowledge in the consumer goods space,

Romane Fragrances To Operate as Tru Fragrance •Romane Fragrances is re-branding itself as Tru Fragrance. Backed by 42 years of experience, the company offers extensive distribution for independent and boutique retailers—both domestic and international—specialty stores, online retail and mass merchandisers. The new name takes effect immediately, in conjunction with the launch of a new website. Under the new Tru Fragrance moniker, the company will merge four decades of industry knowledge and consumer insights with a modern approach that harnesses the romance and fashion required to successfully develop and market private label fragrances. More info: www.trufragrance.com •

skin bioengineering, skin sensory techniques, clinical trial design, skin penetration and biostatistics. He was a member of the Praesidium of the IFSCC from 1998 to 2009, serving in many functions mainly relating to cosmetic science such as chair of the Science and Education Committee, Scientific Editor of the IFSCC magazine and president (2007-2008). He published about 450 papers, posters, book chapters, columns and podium presentations in the field of topical drug delivery and cosmetic science. He won Best Paper Awards at the 1998 SCS Annual Conference (Manchester, UK), the 1999 SCC Annual Scientific Conference (New York, USA), the IFSCC Congress Best Poster Award (Edinburgh, Scotland, UK; 2002), the 2003 IFSCC Conference Award (Seoul, Korea; 2003) and the ISBS Best Poster Award (Orlando, FL; 2004). He was chair of the Scientific Committee of the 2007 IFSCC Conference held in Amsterdam, where he was named president of the IFSCC.

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December 2011

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The staff of HAPPI appreciates your continued support. Thank you for a great 2011. Best wishes for a prosperous 2012.

December 2011

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Advertising Index

Advertiser

Page No.

Telephone

Website

Access Business Group ......................................11 ......................800-879-2732 ....................www.accessbusinessgroup.com Active Organics ..................................................83 ......................800-541-1478................................www.activeorganics.com Ajinomoto............................................................77 ......................201-292-3180 ..........................................www.ajichem.com Akzo Nobel ..................................................Cover Tip ................312-906-7500 ........................www.surface.akzonobel.com Alnor Oil ..............................................................59 ......................516-561-6146 ..........................................www.alnoroil.com Alpha Packaging/Technigraph ..........................85 ......................507-454-3830 ....................................www.technigraph.net Angus Chemical/Dow Chemical ......................79 ......................800-447-4369 ..................................www.AMPforHair.com Arista Industries, Inc. ........................................50 ....................800-ALL-OILS ............................www.aristaindustries.com BASF......................................................................5 ......................800-880-5768 ........................www.personal-care.basf.com BioScreen Testing Services ................................37 ......................800-229-9057 ......................................www.bioscreen.com Biosil Technologies, Inc. ......................................14 ......................973-684-2000 ......................................www.biosiltech.com Brenntag North America ....................................15 ......................800-732-0562 ......................www.brenntagspecialties.com Caribbean Natural Products Inc. ......................119 ....................973-882-5115 ....................www.caribnaturalproducts.com Centerchem, Inc. ............................................Cover 4..................203-822-9800....................................www.centerchem.com Chattem Chemicals, Inc. ....................................7 ......................423-822-5001 ......................................www.hamposyl.com Chemsil ................................................................81 ......................877-700-0302 ..........................................www.chemsil.com Clariant Int’l Ltd. Functional Chemicals Div. ..13....................+41 61 469 77 56..................www.personalcare.clariant.com CLR - Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH.......................................................................................................... ..............................................................................95 ..................+49-30-85 10 26-0 ......................................www.clr-berlin/de Consumer Product Testing, Inc. ........................41 ......................973-808-7111 ..........................................www.cptclabs.com Cosmetochem ....................................................51 ..................+41(0)41 748 33 33............................www.cosmetochem.com Covalence ............................................................45 ......................480-897-0551......................................www.CoValence.com Croda Inc...........................................................17, 70 ..................732-417-0800 ........................................www.crodausa.com DSM Nutritional Products, Inc. ..................49, 75, 91 ................800-526-0189..........www.unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com Ei A Pharmaceutical Solutionworks ..52, 101, 103, 105, 107 ......704-939-4329 ............................www.eisolutionworks.com Emery Oleochemicals ........................................65 ....................................................................................www.emeryoleo.com Flavex Naturextrakte GmbH ............................111 ..............+49 (0) 68 35-91 95-0 ......................................www.flavex.com Grant Industries, Inc. ..........................................3 ......................201-791-8700..........................................www.grantinc.com HallStar ................................................................62 ......................908-852-6128 ..........................................www.hallstar.com IFSCC 2012 Congress ....................................Cover 3................+27 11 676 3464 ....................................www.ifscc2012.co.za Inolex Chemical Company ................................34 ......................215-271-0800 ............................................www.inolex.com Jeen International................................................25......................800-771-JEEN ................................................www.jeen.com Lipo Chemicals ................................................30, 31 ..................973-345-8600 ................................www.lipochemicals.com Lubrizol/Noveon® Consumer Specialties ....56, 73 ..................800-379-5389 ....................www.personalcare.noveon.com Mibelle AG Biochemistry....................................19 ................+41 (0) 62 836 13 45................www.mibellebiochemistry.com Natural Plant Products ......................................33 ......................503-363-6402 ................................www.meadowfoam.com Nexeo Solutions, LLC (formerly Ashland) ......23 ......................800-531-7106 ..............................www.nexeosolutions.com Pearce Plastics, Inc. ............................................113 ....................626-797-8481 ................................www.pearceplastics.com Personal Care Products Council ......................104 ....................202-331-1770 ......................www.personalcarecouncil.org Presperse LLC ....................................................66 ......................732-356-5200 ......................................www.presperse.com Rahn USA Corp...................................................53 ......................630-851-4220 ....................................www.rahn-group.com 128 • happi

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December 2011

Advertising Index

Advertiser

Page No.

Telephone

Website

Resources of Nature LLC ..................................67 ......................908-226-5123 ........................www.resourcesofnature.com Rhodia ..................................................................9 ......................800-922-2189............................www.rhodia-novecare.com RITA Corporation ..........................................Cover 2..................800-426-7759 ..........................................www.ritacorp.com Sabinsa ................................................................93 ......................732-777-1111 ..........................www.sabinsacosmetics.com Sederma/Croda ..................................................88 ......................732-692-1652..............................................www.sederma.fr Shaath & Meadows Consultation ....................96 ......................914-645-3426 ..........................www.ShaathMeadows.com Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc. ................27 ......................330-630-9860 ..........................www.shinetsusilicones.com Silab......................................................................92 ..................(33) 05 55 84 58 40 ................................................www.silab.fr Solabia Group......................................................52 ..................+33 1 48 10 19 40 ............................................www.solabia.fr Spectra Colors Corp. ..........................................43 ......................800-527-8588................................www.SpectraColors.com Takasago ..............................................................29 ......................201-767-9001 ........................................www.takasago.com Teamworks 2012 SCC Midwest Chapter ........129 ....................888-411-4264......................................www.midwestscc.org Terry Laboratories ..............................................69 ......................800-367-2563 ........................................www.terrylabs.com Unit Pack, Inc.......................................................87 ......................973-239-4112 ........................................www.unitpack.com Universal Preserv-A-Chem, Inc. ......................61 ......................732-568-1266 ........................................www.upichem.com Vevy Europe ........................................................68 ....................+39 010 522 51 ..............................................www.vevy.com Welch, Holme & Clark Co., Inc. ........................10 ......................973-465-1200 ......................www.welch-holme-clark.com Youngbio Cemical Co., ITD................................60 ........0086-577-63198788/63198182 ................www.youngbiochem.com

December 2011

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Photo News

SCOPE DUAL BLAST HITS FOOD FESTIVALS AND LINKS WITH SUNNY ANDERSON

Garlic fans at the Gilroy Garlic Festival found relief at the Scope Dual-Blast booth.

• To introduce its latest collection of products featuring new Dual-Blast technology, Scope hit the road to encourage people to breathe easy after savoring the flavor of their favorite foods, especially those with onions and garlic. During the summer, the P&G brand showcased Scope Dual-Blast mouthwash and Crest Complete Multi-Benefit Extra White + Scope Dual-Blast toothpaste at 22 food festivals across the country. Among the stops was the Gilroy Garlic Festival in Gilroy, CA— aka the “Garlic Capital of the World.” Festival goers visited the Scope Dual-Blast booth to freshen-up with new Scope Dual-Blast mouthwash and Crest Complete Multi-Benefit Extra White + Scope Dual-Blast toothpaste. Joining in the bad breath crusade is Food Network’s Sunny Anderson. She is partnering with Scope to show people that they can breathe easy even after enjoying her most flavorful dishes thanks to the new Dual-Blast technology. Food Network star Sunny Anderson is helping promote Scope’s new Dual-Blast technology

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December 2011

hyadisine

™

Retains water to smooth the skin

The excellent long-lasting moisturizing and immediate anti-wrinkle properties of hyadisine™ proven MR ZMZS showed the efficacy of this biotechnological marinebased active ingredient in improving skin appearance, with significant reduction of lines in only 2 hours.