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HERES NO DElNITIVE ANSWER AS TO WHICH IS THE BEST SEASON TO VISIT 3UMMER ON THE 3OUTH 2IM CAN BE MURDEROUSLY CROWDED AND FOR HIK ERS ESPECIALLY UNCOMFORTABLY HOT SO IF YOU HAVE THE CHOICE AND YOU PLAN TO SPEND A LOT OF TIME OUT ON THE TRAILS SPRING AND FALL ARE PREFER ABLE 4HATS LESS OF AN ISSUE ON THE .ORTH 2IM WHICH RECEIVES FAR FEWER VISI TORS AND STAYS SIGNIlCANTLY COOLER )N WINTER THE SCOPE FOR OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES IS GREATLY REDUCED AND THE .ORTH 2IM IS CLOSED ALTOGETHER BUT THE 3OUTH 2IM IS TRANSFORMED INTO A HAVEN OF PEACE AND TRANQUILITY )N TERMS OF AESTHETICS THE CANYON CAN LOOK RADIANT mECKED WITH SNOW ON A CRISP WINTERS DAY ALIVE WITH COLOR WHEN THE CACTI AND WILDmOWERS BLOSSOM IN SPRING AND SUFFUSED WITH A GOLDEN GLOW IN FALL AS THE TREES CLOSE TO RIM LEVEL START TO TURN 4HE CLIMATE VARIES WITH BOTH THE SEASON AND THE ALTITUDE !LTHOUGH MOST PEOPLE PICTURE THE CANYON AS BEING IN BARREN DESERT IN FACT BOTH THE .ORTH AND 3OUTH RIMS ARE SET IN COOL HIGH FORESTS 4HE .ORTH 2IM THE HIGHER OF THE TWO AT FT RECEIVES SO MUCH SNOW THAT ITS COM PLETELY CUT OFF BETWEEN ROUGHLY LATE /CTOBER AND EARLY -AY .IGHTS THERE REMAIN DISTINCTLY CHILLY AT THE START AND END OF EACH SEASON AND
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/N A POSITIVE NOTE THE CANYON IS AS MAJESTIC AS EVER TO BE ADMIRED FROM COUNTLESS DIFFERING VANTAGE POINTS NOT ONLY WITHIN THE VILLAGE BUT ALSO ALONG THE EIGHT MILE (ERMIT 2OAD TO THE WEST AND MILE $ESERT 6IEW $RIVE TO THE EAST 4HE VILLAGE FACILITIES MAINTAIN A PRETTY HIGH STANDARD n ESPECIALLY SUCH HISTORIC PROPERTIES LIKE %L 4OVAR AND "RIGHT !NGEL ,ODGE n AND ARE GENERALLY WELL PRICED 4HE VILLAGE ITSELF IS ALSO A LOT MORE ATTRACTIVE THAN ONE MIGHT IMAGINE AND ONCE THE DAY TRIPPERS HAVE GONE IT RARELY FEELS AS CROWDED AS THE HORROR STORIES MIGHT SUGGEST
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4INY 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL 0ARK !IRPORT SITS JUST OUTSIDE THE PARK BOUNDARY IN 4USAYAN SIX MILES SOUTH OF THE CANYON RIM 5SED PRIMARILY BY mIGHT SEEING TOUR COMPANIES SEE PPn IT ALSO WELCOMES SCHEDULED mIGHTS AND EXCURSIONS PRIMARILY FROM ,AS 6EGAS 7HILE SUCH mIGHTS DONT PASS DIRECTLY OVER THE PARK THEY STILL OFFER GOOD VIEWS 3TANDARD FARES RUN ABOUT ONE WAY AND ROUND TRIP BUT SPECIAL OFFERS CAN REDUCE THAT TO AS LITTLE AS AND RESPECTIVELY 4HE MAJOR 6EGAS OPERATORS ARE 3CENIC !IRLINES OR WWWSCENICCOM AND !IR 6EGAS OR WWWAIRVEGASCOM -OST 4USAYAN HOTELS OFFER GUESTS COURTESY PICKUP SERVICE 9OU WONT lND A CAR RENTAL OUTLET AT THE AIRPORT BUT THE %NTERPRISE BRANCH IN &LAGSTAFF WWWENTERPRISECOM WILL DELIVER A CAR THERE FOR AROUND
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4065)3*.
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BE ALL BUT IMPOSSIBLE 3AVE YOURSELF THE TROUBLE BY INSTEAD PICKING UP A COPY OF THE PARKS FREE NEWSPAPER 4HE 'UIDE AVAILABLE AT THE TWO ENTRANCE STATIONS AND IN ALL PARK LODGES !S WELL AS LISTING CURRENT OPERATING HOURS AND SHUTTLE SCHEDULES 4HE 'UIDE OUTLINES A FULL PROGRAM OF PARK ACTIVITIES SUCH AS RANGER TALKS AND GUIDED HIKES /N A TYPICAL DAY IN HIGH SEASON MORE THAN A DOZEN SUCH TALKS OR HIKES ARE ON OFFER AT VENUES RANGING FROM SHUTTLE BUS STOPS AND OVERLOOKS TO THE VISITOR CENTER OR CANYON RIM IN THE VILLAGE !LL ARE FREE OF CHARGE AND ITS WELL WORTH SCHEDULING YOUR DAY TO COINCIDE WITH WHATEVERS GOING ON !PART FROM THE PLAZA YOULL lND INFORMATION DESKS AT +OLB 3TUDIO 9AVAPAI /BSERVATION 3TATION 4USAYAN -USEUM AND $ESERT 6IEW &OR DETAILS ABOUT THE "ACKCOUNTRY /FlCE WHICH ISSUES PERMITS FOR BACKPACKING AND CAMPING IN THE CANYON SEE P
$BOZPO7JFX*OGPSNBUJPO1MB[B /PENED IN #ANYON 6IEW )NFORMATION 0LAZA DAILY -AY TO MID /CT AMnPM MID /CT TO !PRIL AMnPM WWWNPSGOV GRCA IS ACROSS THE MAIN ROAD FROM -ATHER 0OINT JUST WEST OF THE JUNCTION OF !: AND THE SPUR ROAD TO THE VILLAGE $ESPITE ITS NAME THE PLAZA SITS WELL BACK FROM THE RIM AND OFFERS NO CANYON VIEWS 7HAT IT DOES PROVIDE ARE EXTENSIVE WELL ILLUSTRATED OPEN AIR INTERPRETIVE DISPLAYS AND TRAIL GUIDES HELPFUL RANGERS AND AN EXCELLENT SEPARATE BOOKSTORE RUN BY THE 'RAND #ANYON !SSOCIATION &OR ALL ITS IMPRESSIVE SCOPE THE PLAZA WAS NOT IN FACT BUILT TO SERVE AS THE MAIN PARK VISITOR CENTER BUT RATHER AS THE TERMINUS OF A PROPOSED LIGHT RAIL SYSTEM )T WAS ENVISAGED THAT PEOPLE WOULD LEAVE THEIR CARS IN HUGE PARKING LOTS AT 4USAYAN BE FERRIED HERE ON TRAINS THEN TRANSFER TO THE PARK SHUTTLE BUSES 4HE OUTDOOR INFORMATION PANELS WERE ERECTED TO GIVE PASSENGERS SOMETHING TO READ WHILE WAITING AT THE PLAZA /FlCIALLY THE 0ARK 3ERVICE STILL PLANS TO BUILD A DEDICATED VISITOR CENTER IN THE HEART OF THE VILLAGE #ONSTRUCTION OF THE LIGHT RAIL NETWORK ON THE OTHER HAND HAS BEEN INDEl NITELY POSTPONED !T SOME POINT A NEW BUS SYSTEM MAY SERVE THE SAME PURPOSE BUT FOR NOW THE PLAZA REMAINS BIZARRELY INACCESSIBLE IN THAT IT HAS NO PARKING LOT OF ITS OWN )NSTEAD THOSE ABLE TO lND A SPACE AT -ATHER 0OINT MUST WALK THE FEW HUNDRED YARDS BACK TO THE PLAZA ELECTRIC CART SERVICE IS AVAILABLE FOR DISABLED VISITORS 0ARKING AT -ATHER 0OINT IS OFlCIALLY RESTRICTED TO ONE HOUR THOUGH THAT POLICY DOESNT APPEAR TO BE ENFORCED !NYWAY AS SPACE IS LIMITED MANY SUMMERTIME VISITORS SIMPLY END UP PARKING ON EITHER SIDE OF THE ROAD ITSELF 4HE 'UIDE SUGGESTS YOU PARK IN THE VILLAGE AND CATCH A SHUTTLE BUS BACK TO THE PLAZA THOUGH THAT TAKES FAR MORE TIME THAN ITS WORTH "E FOREWARNED THAT WHILE THE PLAZA IS ACCESSIBLE ON FOOT FROM 9AVAPAI ,ODGE ITS A SOLID MILE WHATEVER IMPRESSION YOU MAY GATHER FROM OFlCIAL MAPS
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TO ACCLIMATE TO THE SHUTTLES IT MIGHT HELP BUT FOR NOW ONLY THE (ERMITS 2EST 2OUTE SERVICE WHICH FERRIES SIGHTSEERS TO OVERLOOKS WEST OF THE VILLAGE IS AN UNQUALIlED SUCCESS
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'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE AND DOWN AT 0HANTOM 2ANCH SEE P AS WELL AS ON THE .ORTH 2IM 4HE NICEST LODGINGS ARE TWO VENERABLE &RED (ARVEY PROPERTIES JUST NORTH OF 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE n THE MAGNIlCENT %L 4OVAR AND THE ALMOST AS ATTRACTIVE "RIGHT !NGEL ,ODGE !S THE RATES SET BY THE .ATIONAL 0ARK 3ERVICE DEPEND ALMOST ENTIRELY ON IN ROOM AMENITIES RATHER THAN THE VIEW IT MAY BE NO MORE EXPENSIVE TO STAY IN A QUAINT RIM SIDE CABIN THAN IN A CHARMLESS MOTEL ROOM A MILE FROM THE EDGE 4HERE ARE HOWEVER FAR MORE OF THE LATTER THAN THE FORMER IN FACT THE NUMBER OF ROOMS WITH UNOBSTRUCTED CANYON VIEWS BARELY REACHES DOUBLE lGURES $URING BUSY PERIODS n ROUGHLY EARLY -AY THROUGH LATE 3EPTEMBER n THE BEST ROOMS ARE OFTEN BOOKED UP TO THIRTEEN MONTHS IN ADVANCE AND BY *UNE IT WOULD BE VERY UNUSUAL TO lND ANY AVAILABLE SAME DAY BOOKINGS 2ATES LISTED HERE APPLY DURING HIGH SEASON IN THE DEPTHS OF WINTER PRICES FOR ROOMS NEAR THE RIM DROP BY ABOUT PER NIGHT WHILE RATES AT -ASWIK AND 9AVAPAI LODGES CAN SLIDE AS MUCH AS "EAR IN MIND THAT ONCE YOUVE MADE YOUR BOOKING ITS WELL WORTH MAKING REPEATED FOLLOW UP CALLS TO SEE IF ANY CANCELLATIONS HAVE BECOME AVAILABLE YOU COULD EASILY END UP GETTING A NICER ROOM AT "RIGHT !NGEL ,ODGE FOR EXAMPLE FOR HALF THE ASKING PRICE OF 9AVAPAI ,ODGE
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4065)3*.
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4ENT AND 26 CAMPING WITHOUT HOOKUPS IS AVAILABLE AT THE 0ARK 3ERVICES YEAR ROUND -ATHER #AMPGROUND SOUTH OF THE MAIN ROAD THROUGH 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE NOT FAR FROM -ARKET 0LAZA 3ITES FOR UP TO TWO VEHICLES AND SIX PEOPLE COST PER NIGHT BETWEEN !PRIL AND .OVEMBER WHEN RESERVATIONS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED CAN BE MADE UP TO lVE MONTHS IN ADVANCE EITHER THROUGH 3PHERIX SAME DAY ADVANCE OR FROM OUTSIDE THE 53 OR ONLINE AT WWWRESERVATIONSNPS GOV "ETWEEN $ECEMBER AND -ARCH SITES ARE lRST COME lRST SERVED AND THE FEE DROPS TO PER NIGHT 4HE ADJACENT 4RAILER 6ILLAGE OFFERS EXCLUSIVELY 26 SITES WITH HOOKUPS WHICH RUN PER SITE PER NIGHT FOR TWO PEOPLE PLUS FOR EACH ADDITIONAL ADULT RESERVE THROUGH 8ANTERRA OR WWW GRANDCANYONLODGESCOM )N SUMMER ADDITIONAL lRST COME lRST SERVED SITES WITHOUT HOOKUPS ARE AVAILABLE MILES EAST OF 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE AT THE .03 RUN $ESERT 6IEW #AMPGROUND MID -AY TO MID /CT NO RESERVATIONS /UTSIDE THE PARK IN 4USAYAN IS #AMPER 6ILLAGE WWW GRANDCANYONENTRANCECOM SOME 26 HOOKUPS n A COMMERCIAL CAMP GROUND WHILE THE +AIBAB .ATIONAL &OREST RUNS THE MINIMALLY EQUIPPED lRST COME lRST SERVED 4EN 8 #AMPGROUND MID !PRIL TO 3EPT NO HOOKUPS OR SHOWERS TWO MILES SOUTH OF THE PARK 4WENTY MILES FARTHER SOUTH IN 6ALLE &LINTSTONES "EDROCK #ITY MID -ARCH TO /CT TENT SITES 26 HOOKUPS IS A FAMILY ORIENTED COMMERCIAL CAMPGROUND WITH A SIMPLE STORE SNACK BAR AND ITS OWN PREHISTORIC THEME PARK BASED ON THE POPULAR CARTOON SERIES
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ACROSS THE HIGHWAY AND OPEN IN SUMMER ONLY IS BOOKED THROUGH THE SAME OFlCE &AILING EITHER OF THESE YOUR CLOSEST OPTIONS ARE IN &LAGSTAFF 7ILLIAMS AND #AMERON 4HE CLOSEST HOSTELS TO THE PARK ARE IN &LAGSTAFF AND OUTSIDE 7ILLIAMS
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(SBOE$BOZPO7JMMBHF "OTH %L 4OVAR AND "RIGHT !NGEL ,ODGE OFFER PROPER RESTAURANTS BUT SINCE THEIR CAPACITY IS FAR TOO LOW TO MEET DEMAND YOULL PROBABLY END UP EATING IN THE LARGE -ASWIK OR 9AVAPAI CAFETERIAS &OR AN EVEN QUICKER MEAL THE #ANYON 6ILLAGE -ARKETPLACE RUNS A PRETTY GOOD DELI COUNTER DAILY SUMMER AMnPM OTHERWISE AMnPM
4065)3*.
!S FOR DRINKING %L 4OVAR PROVIDES A COZY WOOD PANELED COCKTAIL LOUNGE DAILY AMnPM WHICH SERVES A SMALL MENU OF APPETIZERS AND DESSERTS AT SUNSET RETREAT WITH YOUR GOODIES TO THE LOVELY AND STRANGELY UNDERUSED OUTDOOR TERRACE ON THE LAWN WITHIN A FEW FEET OF THE RIM 4HE LOUNGE AT "RIGHT !NGEL DAILY AMnPM OFTEN FEATURES LIVE COUNTRY MUSIC AND DOUBLES AS A COFFEE BAR FROM AM DAILY -ASWIK ,ODGE HOSTS A SPORTS BAR DAILY nPM WITH BIG SCREEN 46
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7ITH ITS OWN ALBEIT SMALL PARKING LOT JUST A FEW HUNDRED YARDS FROM THE INFORMATION PLAZA BUSY -ATHER 0OINT CENTERS ON A PAIR OF ROCKY OUTCROPS THAT JUT OUT JUST BELOW THE RIM 7HEN THE CROWDS PROVE TOO MUCH THERES ALWAYS SPACE SOMEWHERE ALONG THE RAILED RIM TRAIL WITH SUBTLY CHANGING VIEWS AT EVERY STEP &OR PROSPECTIVE HIKERS -ATHER 0OINT IS A PERFECT INTRODUCTION TO THE CANYON &ACING ROUGHLY NORTHEAST IT OFFERS VIEWS STRAIGHT UP "RIGHT !NGEL #ANYON WHICH SKEWERS DOWN FROM THE .ORTH 2IM 4HIS IS THE ROUTE FOLLOWED BY THE .ORTH +AIBAB 4RAIL WHICH BEGINS NEAR 'RAND #ANYON ,ODGE A GLINT OF METAL HALFWAY DOWN BETRAYS THE PRESENCE OF THE FOOTBRIDGE SPANNING "RIGHT !NGEL #REEK 4WO OTHER RIM TO RIVER TRAILS ARE VISIBLE CLOSER IN 4O THE EAST THE 3OUTH +AIBAB 4RAIL ZIGZAGS DOWN FROM 9AKI 0OINT WHILE THE WESTERNMOST OF TWO VISIBLE STRETCHES OF THE #OLORADO MARKS THE 3OUTH +AIBABS INTERSECTION WITH THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL "ELOW YOU NESTLED ALONGSIDE THE OTHER TINY PATCH OF RIVER LIE THE CABINS OF 0HANTOM 2ANCH WHERE ALL THOSE TRAILS LEAD :BWBQBJ1PJOU
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$ESIGNED BY #HARLES & 7HITTLESEY THE %L 4OVAR OPENED IN TWO YEARS AFTER 9ELLOWSTONES /LD &AITHFUL )NN HAD ESTABLISHED A TASTE FOR THIS KIND OF OVERGROWN LOG CABIN 4HE HOTEL NAME WAS TAKEN FROM 0EDRO %L 4OVAR A MEMBER OF #ORO NADOS EXPEDITION WHO WAS THE lRST %UROPEAN TO HEAR ABOUT THE CANYON BUT WAS NOT AMONG THE PARTY WHO ACTUALLY CAME HERE IN SEE P !CCORDING TO ITS ORIGINAL BROCHURE %L 4OVAR hCOMBINED IN ADMIRABLE PROPOR TIONS THE 3WISS CHALET AND THE .ORWAY VILLA v AND GUESTS WERE INVITED TO COME IN SEARCH OF hFREEDOM FROM ULTRAFASHIONABLE RESTRICTIONSv "ACK THEN EACH OF ITS FOUR mOORS HELD A SINGLE BATHROOM TO SERVE ROOMS 7HILE YOU WONT lND ANY HISTORICAL EXHIBITS OR DISPLAYS YOU CAN GET THE OLD TIME UNHURRIED mAVOR OF THE PLACE BY WANDERING THROUGH THE LOBBY WITH ITS IMPRESSIVE DISPLAYS OF STUFFED ANIMAL HEADS AND BOTH ITS DINING ROOM AND COCKTAIL LOUNGE ARE HIGHLY RECOMMENDED SEE P !CCOMMODATION AT %L 4OVAR IS REVIEWED ON P
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4HE EIGHT MILE DEAD END SCENIC DRIVE OFlCIALLY KNOWN AS (ERMIT 2OAD BUT FAMILIAR TO MANY RETURNING VISITORS AS 7EST 2IM $RIVE STARTS A HUNDRED YARDS WEST OF "RIGHT !NGEL ,ODGE JUST AS 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE PETERS OUT /FFERING A SUCCESSION OF VERY DIFFERENT BUT CONSISTENTLY IMPRESSIVE CANYON PANORAMAS ITS THE MOST OBVIOUS AND MOST ENJOYABLE HALF DAY SIGHTSEEING TRIP FROM THE VILLAGE )N SUMMER IT OFFERS A WELCOME ESCAPE FROM TRAFlC AS THE ONLY VEHICLES GRANTED ACCESS ARE THE (ERMITS 2EST 2OUTE SHUTTLE BUSES THE 8ANTERRA TOUR BUSES AND THOSE DISPLAYING DISABLED PERMITS PRIVATE CARS ARE OTHERWISE PERMITTED ONLY BETWEEN $ECEMBER AND &EBRUARY 4HE 3ANTA &E 2AILROAD FORGED THE ORIGINAL (ERMIT 2IM 2OAD BETWEEN AND TO PROVIDE STAGECOACH EXCURSIONS FOR ITS PASSENGERS !T THAT TIME THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL WAS PRIVATELY OWNED SO THE 3ANTA &E LAID OUT ITS OWN (ERMIT 4RAIL AT ROADS END WHICH IT USED FOR MULE RIDES AND OVERNIGHT TRIPS 4HE h(ERMITv NAME INCIDENTALLY WAS A PIECE OF HARMLESS MYTHMAK ING CENTERED AROUND ONE ,OUIS "OUCHER A WHITE BEARDED OLD PROSPECTOR WHO MADE HIS HOME FOR TWENTY YEARS AT $RIPPING 3PRING JUST BELOW THE TRAILHEAD &OR MOST OF ITS LENGTH THE ROAD RUNS WITHIN A FEW YARDS OF THE CANYON PARAL LELED BY THE 2IM 4RAIL EVEN CLOSER TO THE EDGE 4HE IDEAL WAY TO EXPLORE THIS TRAIL IS TO COMBINE JUDICIOUS USE OF THE SHUTTLE BUSES WITH STRETCHES OF WALK ING n FEW BOTHER TO WALK THE ENTIRE EIGHT MILES 0AVED FOR THE lRST MILES AS FAR AS -ARICOPA 0OINT THE TRAIL LATER BECOMES AN UNMARKED AND NOT EXACTLY CONSPICUOUS DIRT PATH 4HE TRAIL IS ROUGH IN SPOTS AND OCCASIONALLY TEETERS ALONG ALARMING DROP OFFS n IN WHICH CASE YOU CAN ALWAYS RETREAT TO THE ROAD n BUT ITS NOT NEARLY AS TIRING AS THE INNER CANYON TRAILS 3O LONG AS YOU BRING A BOTTLE OF WATER YOU SHOULD HAVE NO PROBLEMS "EAR IN MIND THAT ALTHOUGH THE BUSES MAKE EIGHT STOPS THEY DO SO ONLY ON THE OUTWARD JOURNEY RETURNING BUSES ONLY STOP AT (ERMITS 2EST -OHAVE 0OINT AND (OPI 0OINT )F YOU GET OFF AT EITHER OF THE lRST THREE OVERLOOKS YOULL NEED TO HIKE EITHER BACK TO THE VILLAGE OR ONWARD AS FAR AS (OPI 0OINT 4HE HIKING PERMUTATIONS ARE ENDLESS BUT RECOMMENDED ROUTES INCLUDE THE TWENTY MINUTE WALKS BETWEEN (OPI AND -OHAVE POINTS AND BETWEEN 0IMA 0OINT AND (ERMITS 2EST 4RAVELING THE LENGTH OF (ERMIT 2OAD OUT AND BACK WITHOUT LEAVING THE BUS TAKES ABOUT NINETY MINUTES 4O ALLOW TIME FOR A COUPLE OF SHORT HIKES AND A STOP AT (ERMITS 2EST SET ASIDE PERHAPS THREE HOURS )F YOU PREFER TO HIKE THE FOUR MILE ROUND TRIP FROM THE VILLAGE TO (OPI 0OINT FOR EXAMPLE TAKES LESS THAN TWO HOURS
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4065)3*.
ORIGINALLY THE HOME AND WORKPLACE OF %MERY AND %LLSWORTH +OLB BROTHERS WHO OPENED A PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDIO HERE IN 4HEYD TAKE PICTURES OF EACH DAYS CONTINGENT OF DEPARTING MULE RIDERS RUN DOWN THE TRAIL TO DEVELOP lLM USING THE WATER AT )NDIAN 'ARDENS THEN RUN BACK UP TO READY THE PRINTS FOR RETURNING RIDERS )N AND THEY ALSO SHOT THE lRST EVER lLM OF A BOATING EXPEDITION ALONG THE ENTIRE CANYON 4HIS BECAME THE LONGEST RUNNING MOVIE OF ALL TIME %MERY PRESENTED IT HERE DAILY FROM UNTIL JUST BEFORE HIS DEATH AT AGE IN )TS PHOTOGRAPHIC DAYS BEHIND IT THE STUDIO IS NOW DIVIDED BETWEEN A WELL STOCKED BOOKSTORE UPSTAIRS AND A GALLERY OF CHANGING EXHIBITIONS DOWNSTAIRS WHICH ALSO HARBORS A NICE LITTLE BAY WINDOW OFFERING SUPERB VIEWS DAILY SUMMER AMnPM FALL AND SPRING AMnPM WINTER AMnPM
&INALLY CYCLING IS PERMITTED ON (ERMIT 2OAD YEAR ROUND THOUGH YOURE EXPECTED TO DISMOUNT EVERY TIME A SHUTTLE GOES PAST 5SBJMWJFX0WFSMPPL 4065)3*.
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4HE lRST SHUTTLE STOP 4RAILVIEW /VERLOOK IS IN FACT A LARGE PARKING LOT THAT SERVES TWO DISTINCT VIEWPOINTS KNOWN AS 4RAILVIEW ) AND )) !LTHOUGH THE ROAD INITIALLY MAKES AN EXTRAVAGANT LOOP INLAND THIS SPOT IS LESS THAN THREE QUARTERS OF A MILE FROM THE VILLAGE THUS THE VIEWS ARE SIMILAR ALBEIT FROM A SLIGHTLY HIGHER ELEVATION (OWEVER YOU WILL lND A SWEEPING PROSPECT OF THE VILLAGE ITSELF STAG GERED ALONG THE CANYON RIM !S THE NAME SUGGESTS THE VIEWPOINTS ALSO OFFER A lNE OVERVIEW OF THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL 0ROSPECTIVE HIKERS CAN SEE EXACTLY WHAT THEYRE IN FOR AS EVERY CRUEL RED DIRT SWITCHBACK IS CLEARLY ETCHED AGAINST THE CANYON WALLS BELOW .BSJDPQB1PJOU
!FTER ABOUT A MILE THE 2IM 4RAIL ROUNDS A CORNER AND PASSES BEYOND SIGHT OF 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE lNALLY OPENING UP VIEWS BOTH WEST AND EAST !T THE SECOND SHUTTLE STOP THE RAILED ROCKY OVERLOOK AT -ARICOPA 0OINT COMMANDS JUST SUCH A SWEEPING CANYON PANORAMA 4HIS IS A PRIME SPOT TO IDENTIFY THE MAJESTIC BUTTES ON THE FAR SIDE OF THE RIVER INCLUDING "RAHMA AND :OROASTER TEMPLES EACH CAPPED WITH HARD RED SANDSTONE 4HE MONUMENTAL PARADE STRETCHES FROM )SIS 4EMPLE IN THE FAR WEST TO 6ISHNU 4EMPLE IN THE EAST ISOLATED BEYOND #APE 2OYAL n THE LAST VISIBLE POINT ON THE .ORTH 2IM )N THE LOWER FOREGROUND STANDS #HEOPS 0YRAMID LAYERED WITH WHAT GEOLOGISTS CALL THE 'RAND #ANYON 3ERIES OF TILTED SILT SHALE AND SANDSTONE ALL ATOP THE GNARLED SCHIST OF THE 'RANITE 'ORGE 3TRAIGHT BELOW SOUTH OF THE UNSEEN RIVER IS THE BROAD "ATTLESHIP PROMONTORY 1PXFMM1PJOU
7EST OF -ARICOPA 0OINT BOTH THE ROAD AND THE TRAIL NOW UNPAVED DETOUR INLAND AROUND A HIGH FENCE FESTOONED WITH SOLEMN RADIATION WARNINGS !T THE
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4WO MILES OUT FROM 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE IS THE BUSIEST OF THE WESTERN VIEW POINTS (OPI 0OINT n AN IDEAL DESTINATION FOR HIKERS AND THE CLOSEST STOP SERVED BY BUSES RETURNING TO THE VILLAGE )TS REPUTATION AS THE PERFECT PLACE FROM WHICH TO ADMIRE THE SUNSET RESTS ON THE FACT THAT THIS PROMONTORY THRUSTS FARTHER NORTH THAN ANY OF ITS NEIGHBORS GRANTING IT A VIRTUAL DEGREE CANYON PROS PECT INCLUDING THE VAST PANOPLY OF TEMPLES TO THE WEST 4HAT SAID THOUSANDS OF VISITORS mOCK HERE ON SUMMER EVENINGS WHICH CAN MAKE IT UNCOMFORTABLY CROWDED 4HE SHUTTLE BUSES STOP SHORT OF THE TIP OF THE LARGE PARKING LOT ENABLING YOU TAKE A SHORT LOOP STROLL AROUND ITS TIERED PERIMETER CATCHING ASSORTED GLIMPSES OF THE #OLORADO ALONG THE WAY 4HE MOST DRAMATIC SEGMENT OF THE RIVER LIES IMMEDIATELY BELOW 0LATEAU 0OINT YOU CAN SEE THE LAST FEW YARDS OF THE TRAIL THAT LEADS OUT TO THE POINT AS DESCRIBED ON P BUT THERES NO POSSIBLE ROUTE DOWN INTO THE GORGE !MAZINGLY ENOUGH THE RIVER IS FEET WIDE DOWN THERE LYING AT THE FOOT OF GNARLED AND IMPOSSIBLY ANCIENT WALLS OF BLACK SCHIST STREAKED THROUGH WITH VERTICAL PINK FAULTS 4O THE WEST THE #OLORADO THREADS A TORTUOUS ROUTE BETWEEN INTERLEAVED SPURS OF RED ROCK AND A MAZE OF LESSER CANYONS TWISTS AMONG THE MIGHTY BUTTES ! PLAQUE AT (OPI 0OINT COMMEMORATES THE #IVILIAN #ONSERVATION #ORPS A $EPRESSION ERA LABOR FORCE SET UP BY &RANKLIN 2OOSEVELT .ICKNAMED THE 0RESI DENTS 4REE !RMY THE CORPS COMPLETED MUCH VALUABLE WORK IN THE PARK BETWEEN AND !NOTHER PLAQUE HIGHLIGHTS "IRDSEYE 0OINT ON THE .ORTH 2IM AND HONORS #OLONEL #LAUDE (ALE "IRDSEYE THE ONETIME 53 'EOLOGICAL 3URVEY CHIEF TOPOGRAPHIC ENGINEER WHO HEADED A SURVEY EXPEDITION THROUGH THE CANYON IN
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HEART OF THIS ENCLOSURE LURKS THE HULKING HEADFRAME OF THE /RPHAN -INE &ROM ITS BEGINNINGS IN AS A COPPER MINE A THOUSAND FEET BELOW THE RIM IT GREW TO BECOME !MERICAS LARGEST URANIUM MINE BY THE S /DDLY THE COMPANY THAT OWNED IT ALSO RAN AN ON SITE HOTEL THE 'RAND #ANYON )NN WHICH IT EVEN CONSIDERED EXPANDING IN TERRACES FAR BENEATH THE RIM "OTH HOTEL AND MINE WENT OUT OF BUSINESS IN THE LATE S HOWEVER AND THE PARK ACQUIRED THE LAND IN 3IGNIlCANT URANIUM DEPOSITS REMAIN IN THE VICINITY BY NO COINCIDENCE AT ALL IN AREAS OUTSIDE THE PARKS PROTECTIVE BOUNDARIES 4HE HEADLAND IMMEDIATELY WEST OF THE MINE ENCLOSURE A SHORT WALK FROM THE SHUTTLE STOP IS 0OWELL 0OINT WHERE THE PARK WAS OFlCIALLY DEDICATED ON !PRIL 4HIS WAS KNOWN AS 3ENTINEL 0OINT UNTIL WHEN A SMALL -AYA STYLE STEPPED PYRAMID WAS ERECTED AS A MEMORIAL TO THE LATE *OHN 7ESLEY 0OWELL AND THE CREWS OF HIS TWO #OLORADO 2IVER EXPEDITIONS &ROM THE FAR SIDE OF ITS PAVED BUT RAIL LESS PLATFORM VIEWS ACROSS THE RIVER TAKE IN THE CURIOUS SEMICIRCULAR CLIFF WALL OF THE 4OWER OF 3ET SHAPED SOMETHING LIKE AN OPENING BRACKET ITS MIRRORED BY A SIMILAR WALL ON )SIS 4EMPLE TO THE EAST
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7EST OF (OPI 0OINT THE ROAD AND TRAIL TRACE THE LIP OF A LESSER BASIN KNOWN AS 4HE )NFERNO CURVING GRACEFULLY FOR THREE QUARTERS OF A MILE TO -OHAVE 0OINT A LARGE RAILED PROMONTORY UNBLEMISHED BY EXPLANATORY PLACARDS 4HOUGH THE SHEER CLIFFS BELOW (OPI 0OINT LARGELY OBSCURE EASTWARD VIEWS ONE DOES GAIN AN APPRECIATION OF HOW TRULY STEEP THESE WALLS ARE 4HE STARK SANDSTONE CLIFFS GLOW SPECTACULAR SHADES OF RED TOWARD DUSK WHILE EQUALLY IMPRESSIVE CLIFFS TO THE WEST ARE SWEPT BY IMPENETRABLE CREEPING SHADOWS
4WO MORE STRETCHES OF THE #OLORADO ARE VISIBLE INCLUDING THE FOAMING WHITE TURMOIL OF 'RANITE 2APID 5IF"CZTT 4065)3*.
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0OCKING THE 3OUTH 2IM WEST OF -OHAVE 0OINT IS ANOTHER LARGE RECESS NAMED 4HE !BYSS IN DEFERENCE TO ITS IMMENSE STEEP SIDES 3HUTTLE BUSES MAKE THEIR NEXT STOP A MILE ALONG AT THE FAR END OF THE 'REAT -OHAVE 7ALL WHICH PLUM METS VERTICALLY MORE THAN FT 4HOUGH THE PEAKS NOW VISIBLE ON THE WESTERN HORIZON APPEAR TO LIE FARTHER ALONG THE 3OUTH 2IM THEY IN FACT LINE THE FAR SIDE OF THE RIVER 0ART OF THE 5INKARET RANGE THEY INCLUDE FT -OUNT 4RUMBULL MORE THAN lFTY MILES DISTANT #LOSE AT HAND FOUR SUCCESSIVE PARALLEL SANDSTONE RIDGES RISE LIKE STAGE SCENERY IN FRONT OF 0IMA 0OINT 4HE MAIN REASON ANYONE GETS OFF THE BUS AT 4HE !BYSS IS TO HIKE IN EITHER DIRECTION ALONG THE VERTIGINOUS 2IM 4RAIL 7HILE THE TRAIL IS RELATIVELY BENIGN IF THE DROP STARTS TO BOTHER YOU SIMPLY WALK ALONG THE ROAD INSTEAD 1JNB1PJOU
0IMA 0OINT LIES FOUR MILES BEYOND -OHAVE 0OINT ALONG A SPUR ROAD OFF (ERMIT 2OAD )TS AT THE TIP OF A PROMONTORY THAT SEPARATES THE BASINS CUT BY -ONUMENT #REEK TO THE EAST n RESPONSIBLE FOR THE !BYSS n AND (ERMIT #REEK TO THE WEST 4HE DROP HERE IS SO ABRUPT THAT THE #OLORADO LIES LESS THAN TWO HORIZONTAL MILES DISTANT AND YOU CAN LOOK STRAIGHT DOWN INTO THE MAW OF THREE QUARTER MILE 'RANITE 2APID &ROM THE FAR BANK HOWEVER ITS ANOTHER TWELVE LABYRINTHINE MILES TO THE .ORTH 2IM 6ISIBLE TO THE WEST IS A SIGNIlCANT STRETCH OF "OUCHER 2APID NAMED FOR THE SO CALLED HERMIT SEE P "ELOW THE (ERMIT 4RAIL TRACES A CONSPICUOUS PATH ACROSS THE 4ONTO 0LAT FORM )N THE DAYS WHEN 3ANTA &E MULE TRAINS TROD DOWN THIS TRAIL TOURISTS WOULD STAY OVERNIGHT AT (ERMIT #AMP 4ODAY FEW TRACES SURVIVE OF THE CAMP OR AERIAL TRAMWAY THAT SUPPLIED IT FROM THE WEST SIDE OF 0IMA 0OINT &ROM HERE ONLY THE TINIEST NOTCH IN THE HORIZON SEPARATES 0OWELL 0LATEAU ON THE .ORTH 2IM FROM (AVASUPAI 0OINT THE LAST VISIBLE HEADLAND ON THE 3OUTH 2IM n AN ESPECIALLY STUNNING PROSPECT IN THE EARLY MORNING (ELPFUL 0ARK 3ERVICE DISPLAYS NEAR THE SHUTTLE STOP ILLUSTRATE CANYON GEOLOGY USING PHOTOS OF NEARBY FORMATIONS AND EXPLAIN HOW THE CANYON STRUCTURE DIFFERS FAR WEST BEYOND ROADS END )FSNJUT3FTU
*UST OVER A MILE PAST 0IMA 0OINT (ERMIT 2OAD ENDS AT THE (ERMITS 2EST WAY STATION LAID OUT BY -ARY *ANE #OLTER IN AS AN ARTFUL EVOCATION OF A CANYON PROSPECTORS DWELLING %VEN THE SOOT THAT BLACKENS THE lREPLACE HERE IS FAUX !S #OLTER PUT IT h9OU CANT IMAGINE WHAT IT COST TO MAKE THIS PLACE LOOK OLDv ! PATH LEADS FROM THE PARKING LOT THROUGH A DELIBERATELY CRUDE ARCHWAY OF STONE SLABS DECKED WITH A HANGING BELL FOUND BY #OLTER IN AN ANTIQUE STORE 9OULL CONTINUE ALONG THE CANYON RIM TO WHAT AT lRST GLANCE APPEARS TO BE NO MORE THAN A RAMSHACKLE PILE OF ROCKS STACKED AGAINST THE HILLSIDE #LOSER INSPEC TION REVEALS A RAMBLING BUT VERY INVITING STRUCTURE THAT CENTERS ON THE MASSIVE DOMED lREPLACE AND HOSTS A SNACK BAR AND LARGE GIFT SHOP DAILY SUMMER AMnPM OTHERWISE AMnSUNSET !S (ERMITS 2EST FRONTS THE SIDE CANYON SHAPED BY (ERMIT #REEK IT DOESNT OFFER AS EXTENSIVE VIEWS AS 0IMA OR -ARICOPA POINTS /NLY A TINY PATCH OF THE #OLORADO IS VISIBLE THOUGH YOU CAN GAZE UP THE CREEK TOWARD ITS SOURCE
$RIPPING 3PRING WHERE hHERMITv ,OUIS "OUCHER REALLY DID MAKE HIS HOME 4HE (ERMIT 4RAIL SEE P SETS OFF JUST PAST THE STORE !BANDONED BY THE 3ANTA &E 2AILROAD IN IT REMAINS POPULAR WITH INNER CANYON HIKERS
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4HE lRST OF THE $ESERT 6IEW $RIVE LOOKOUTS 9AKI 0OINT SITS AT THE END OF A MILE LONG SPUR ROAD JUST EAST OF THE 3OUTH %NTRANCE 2OAD #LOSED TO PRIVATE VEHICLES BETWEEN -ARCH AND .OVEMBER ITS SERVED YEAR ROUND BY SHUTTLE BUSES FROM THE VILLAGE SEE P 4WO MILES EAST OF 9AVAPAI 0OINT AS THE CONDOR mIES 9AKI COMMANDS MUCH THE SAME PERSPECTIVE AS ITS NEIGHBOR 3TRAIGHT ACROSS THE RIVER IS mUTED :OROASTER 4EMPLE WHILE THANKS TO THE CURVE OF THE #OLORADO 2IVER 6ISHNU 4EMPLE STANDS SILHOUETTED AGAINST THE EASTERN HORIZON 4HE STARK lNGER OF THE 7ATCHTOWER AT $ESERT 6IEW IS ALSO VISIBLE NEARLY lFTEEN MILES DUE EAST !LTHOUGH lVE DIFFERENT INNER CANYON TRAILS ARE VISIBLE FROM 9AKI 0OINT n INCLUDING THE "RIGHT !NGEL 0LATEAU 0OINT AND 4ONTO TRAILS ON THIS SIDE OF THE RIVER AND THE #LEAR #REEK 4RAIL ON THE FAR SIDE n THE RIVER ITSELF REMAINS STUB BORNLY OUT OF VIEW 4HE lFTH TRAIL THE 3OUTH +AIBAB 4RAIL SEE P IS THE REASON MOST PEOPLE TAKE THE SPUR ROAD IT STARTS ITS RAPID DESCENT TO 0HANTOM 2ANCH FROM A SEPARATE PARKING LOT JUST MILE OFF $ESERT 6IEW $RIVE &ROM THE MAIN OVERLOOK YOU CAN SPOT THE TRAIL FAR BELOW SWITCHBACKING DOWN AN EXPOSED SLOPE OF RED ROCK SCREE BETWEEN TWO BUTTES WHILE ROCKS BEYOND THE VIEWPOINT OFFER CLEARER VIEWS DOWN TO ITS PRINCIPAL STAGING POST /.EILL "UTTE 5NLESS YOURE ACTUALLY HIKING THE TRAIL THERES NO REASON TO CALL IN AT THE TRAILHEAD PARKING LOT WHICH STANDS ALONGSIDE THE MULE CORRAL USED BY PACK TRIPS RETURNING FROM 0HANTOM 2ANCH
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&ROM -ATHER 0OINT $ESERT 6IEW $RIVE RUNS EAST MILES TO $ESERT 6IEW JUST INSIDE THE PARKS %AST %NTRANCE 3TATION /RIGINALLY NAMED %AST 2IM $RIVE THE ROAD WAS CONSTRUCTED IN TO ACCOMMODATE VISITING MOTORISTS WHO BY THEN OUTNUMBERED RAIL PASSENGERS 4ODAY THE ROAD BRIDGES !: WHICH RUNS NORTH TO THE PARK FROM 7ILLIAMS AND EXTENDS EAST TO #AMERON $ESPITE THREATS TO RESTRICT ALL $ESERT 6IEW $RIVE PARKING LOTS TO SHUTTLE AND TOUR BUSES ONLY 9AKI 0OINT PRESENTS ANY RESTRICTIONS SEE BELOW &OR THE TIME BEING THE DRIVE ITSELF REMAINS OPEN YEAR ROUND FOR SELF GUIDED DRIVING TOURS ALLOW AT LEAST TWO HOURS FOR A ROUND TRIP FROM THE VILLAGE &OR INFORMATION ON 8ANTERRA BUS TOURS OF THE DRIVE SEE PPn )N ADDITION TO THE FORMAL VIEW POINTS DESCRIBED BELOW THE ROAD SKIRTS THE RIM IN PLACES AND WHILE YOURE NOT SUPPOSED TO STOP FOR PICNICS AND SIGHTSEEING PLENTY OF PEOPLE DO
4065)3*.
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! COUPLE OF MILES EAST OF 9AKI 0OINT 3HOSHONE 0OINT IS THE LEAST KNOWN AND LEAST VISITED OF THE 3OUTH 2IM VIEWPOINTS FOR THE SIMPLE REASON THAT ITS ONLY ACCESSIBLE ON FOOT ALONG AN EASY ONE MILE TRAIL FROM $ESERT 6IEW $RIVE )TS AN ABSOLUTE GEM OF A PLACE OFFERING BEAUTIFUL VIEWS AND AN UNPARALLELED SENSE OF PEACE AND PRIVACY 4HIS HOUR LONG ROUND TRIP HIKE FROM THE ROAD MAY WELL BE YOUR ONLY CHANCE TO BE ALONE WITH THE CANYON ON THE 3OUTH 2IM AT ARGUABLY THE lNEST VIEWPOINT ON EITHER RIM 4HE TRAIL TO 3HOSHONE 0OINT BEGINS FROM AN UNPAVED PARKING LOT IN THE WOODS ON THE RIM SIDE OF $ESERT 6IEW $RIVE MILES EAST OF THE TURNOFF TO 9AKI 0OINT
4065)3*.
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9OULL KNOW YOUVE FOUND IT WHEN YOU SEE A YELLOW METAL GATE ACROSS A DIRT ROAD WITH A BROWN PARK NOTICE READING h3ITE USE BY PERMIT ONLYv 4HE SIGN IS THERE TO DISCOURAGE CASUAL VISITORS AS THE 0ARK 3ERVICE PREFERS INSTEAD TO MAKE THE SITE AVAILABLE FOR WEDDINGS AND OTHER PRIVATE GATHERINGS MID -AY TO MID /CTOBER RESERVATIONS SEE P (OWEVER RANGERS AT THE INFORMATION PLAZA KEEP NO RECORD OF WHETHER OR NOT THE POINT HAS BEEN RESERVED AND PERMITS ARE NOT REQUIRED OF CASUAL HIKERS )NSTEAD YOURE SIMPLY ASKED TO RESPECT THE PRIVACY OF ANY GROUP THAT MAY BE OUT THERE AND TO REFRAIN FROM HIKING ALTOGETHER IF YOU NOTICE A LOT OF CARS IN THE PARKING LOT /UTSIDE THE RESERVATION DATES SEE ABOVE YOU MAY HIKE AT WILL !T A FAIRLY BRISK PACE IT TAKES ABOUT lFTEEN MINUTES TO REACH THE RIM ALONG THIS PLEASANT MEANDERING TRAIL WITH MINIMAL ELEVATION CHANGE 9OULL PASS THROUGH
4WELVE MILES EAST OF THE VILLAGE OR MILES BEYOND THE 3HOSHONE 0OINT PARK ING LOT A SPUR ROAD BRANCHES NORTH TO THE YEAR ROUND PARKING LOT AT 'RANDVIEW 0OINT !MONG THE MOST DRAMATIC AND EXPANSIVE OF ALL CANYON VIEWPOINTS 'RANDVIEW IS THOUGHT TO MARK THE GENERAL VICINITY FROM WHICH 3PANISH ADVEN TURERS lRST SAW THE CANYON IN ,EGEND HAS IT THEIR (OPI GUIDES DELIBERATELY LED THEM TO A SPOT FROM WHICH NO TRAILS WERE VISIBLE SO THE GORGE WOULD APPEAR AN EVEN MORE IMPASSABLE OBSTACLE 'RANDVIEW 0OINT WAS ALSO THE PLACE WHERE TOURISM lRST TOOK ROOT IN THE CANYON !FTER DISCOVERING RICH COPPER DEPOSITS FT BELOW THE RIM IN PROSPECTOR 0ETER "ERRY FORGED THE 'RANDVIEW 4RAIL DOWN TO HIS ,AST #HANCE MINE IN &IVE YEARS LATER HE OPENED THE 'RANDVIEW (OTEL TO ACCOMMODATE A GROWING NUMBER OF VISITORS 4HE HOTEL THRIVED AT lRST BUT WITHIN TEN YEARS THE ARRIVAL OF THE RAILROAD OFF TO THE WEST DROVE "ERRY OUT OF BUSINESS 4RACES OF THE HOTEL REMAIN AMID THE FOREST ABOUT A MILE BACK FROM THE RIM 2AILROAD OR NO RAILROAD THE PROSPECT HERE IS INARGUABLY SUPERIOR TO VIEWS FROM THE VILLAGE 4HERES NO NEED TO SET FOOT ON THE PRECARIOUS TRAIL TO SPOT THE SINUOUS COURSE OF THE #OLORADO WHICH MAKES A BROAD LANGUOR OUS ENTRANCE FROM THE EAST BEFORE DISAPPEARING INTO THE STUNNING SANDSTONE LABYRINTH "ELOW ARE THE TWIN PRONGS OF (ORSESHOE -ESA HOME TO "ERRYS COPPER MINE 4HE LEFT SPIRE POINTS TO 7OTANS 4HRONE DETACHED FROM THE .ORTH 2IM AND A COUPLE OF HUNDRED FEET HIGHER THAN 'RANDVIEW ITSELF BETWEEN THE PRONGS STANDS #APE 2OYAL AT THE TIP OF THE 7ALHALLA 0LATEAU AND TO THE RIGHT #APE &INAL JUTS OUT AT THE FAR EAST END OF THE .ORTH 2IM ABOVE AND BEHIND 6ISHNU 4EMPLE 4HE OVERLOOK IS AN ATTRACTIVE SPOT IN ITS OWN RIGHT NESTLED AMID ONE OF THE FEW PURE STANDS OF PONDEROSA PINE ON THE 3OUTH 2IM AND FREQUENTED BY ROAMING ELK AT BOTH SUNSET AND SUNRISE 4OUR BUSES FREQUENT THE POINT BUT YOU CAN ALWAYS ESCAPE THE HUBBUB BY HIKING A SHORT WAY DOWN THE TRAIL
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lRST PONDEROSA PINES AND THEN PI×ON AND JUNIPER WHICH HOST PLENTY OF BIRD AND ANIMAL LIFE AND PROVIDE WELCOME SHADE IN SUMMER "EYOND A CLEARING THAT HOLDS PICNIC TABLES BARBECUE GRILLS AND A COUPLE OF PORTABLE TOILETS THE POINT STANDS IN SPLENDID ISOLATION FAR FROM THE CLAMOR OF CROWDS AND TRAFlC ! SOLITARY PALE HOODOO OR ROCK COLUMN MARKS THE TIP OF ITS SLENDER NECK WHICH MAY FEEL PRECARIOUS IN THE ABSENCE OF THE USUAL RAILINGS 4HE SUBLIME EASTWARD VIEWS TAKE IN #APE 2OYAL AT THE SOUTH TIP OF THE 7ALHALLA 0LATEAU AND THE CREST OF 6ISHNU 4EMPLE IN MID CANYON :OROASTER AND "RAHMA TEMPLES STAND IN LINE DIRECTLY ACROSS THE GORGE
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4HREE MILES BEYOND 'RANDVIEW 0OINT $ESERT 6IEW $RIVE ABRUPTLY DESCENDS FT "UGGELN (ILL THE MOST VISIBLE FEATURE OF THE 'RANDVIEW -ONOCLINE )N A LAND OF SUCH WONDERS THIS INCONSPICUOUS GEOLOGIC HITCH n A SMALL ROCK FOLD MARKED BY AN UNREMARKABLE LITTLE HILL n HARDLY MERITS A SECOND GLANCE BUT IT MAY WELL BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE GREATEST WONDER OF ALL 4O THIS POINT THE #OLORADO mOWS SOUTHWARD SKIRTING THE EDGE OF THE +AIBAB 0LATEAU AS IT SLICES THROUGH SOFTER -OENKOPI &ORMATION ROCK "ELOW "UGGELN (ILL HOWEVER THE 'RANDVIEW -ONOCLINE THRUSTS A WALL OF HARD +AIBAB LIMESTONE INTO THE RIVERS PATH FORCING IT WEST INTO THE PLATEAU AND CREATING THE 'RAND #ANYON AS WE KNOW IT
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*UST BEYOND "UGGELN (ILL LIES -ORAN 0OINT NAMED FOR NINETEENTH CENTURY ARTIST 4HOMAS -ORAN 4HIS OVERLOOK FACES WEST TOWARD THE HEART OF THE MAEL STROM #LOSE AT HAND HIGHER THAN THE LOOKOUT AN ISOLATED ROCK lN KNOWN AS THE 3INKING 3HIP JUTS INTO THE CANYON FROM ATOP THE HILL ITS STRATIlED SANDSTONE LAYERS BEARING WITNESS TO THE 'RANDVIEW -ONOCLINES ANGLE OF TILT 5VTBZBO3VJOBOE.VTFVN
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/N THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE ROAD FOUR MILES PAST -ORAN 0OINT IS THE PARKING AREA FOR 4USAYAN 2UIN AND -USEUM 3ET BACK IN THE FOREST A QUARTER MILE FROM THE RIM 4USAYAN 2UIN n NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH THE TOWN OF 4USAYAN n IS AN OPEN AIR ARCHEOLOGICAL SITE CENTERED ON THE REMAINS OF A TYPICAL TWELFTH CENTURY PUEBLO "UILT CIRCA !$ THE SITE COMPRISES lFTEEN SEPARATE ROOMS INCLUDING TWO CIRCULAR CEREMONIAL CHAMBERS OR KIVAS WHICH SUGGESTS IT WAS HOME TO TWO SEPARATE CLANS &OR PERHAPS A QUARTER CENTURY IT SHELTERED A COMMUNITY OF SOME THIRTY PEOPLE WITH CLEAR CULTURAL CONNECTIONS TO MODERN 0UEBLO )NDIANS AND !RIZONAS (OPI PEOPLE IN PARTICULAR !NTHROPOLOGISTS NOW REFER TO THESE ANCIENTS AS !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOANS REPLACING THE OLDER TERM !NASAZI !T A TIME WHEN !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOANS WERE GRADUALLY WITHDRAWING FROM THE CANYON REGION 4USAYANS INHABITANTS FARMED THE WASH CLOSE TO THEIR HOMES AND TREKKED REGULARLY INTO THE CANYON ALONG WHATS NOW CALLED THE 4ANNER 4RAIL 4HEY SEEM TO HAVE FELT SOME SENSE OF MENACE OR APPREHENSION HOWEVER AS FORT LIKE STRUCTURES FOUND ALONG THE RIM NEARBY DATE FROM THE SAME ERA /F THE ORIGINAL 4USAYAN COMPLEX ONLY LOW STONE WALLS REMAIN n MUCH LIKE THE OTHER TWO THOUSAND OR SO !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOAN SITES IDENTIlED IN AND AROUND THE CANYON 7HILE IT DOESNT APPROACH THE GRAND RUINS AT SUCH PLACES AS #ANYON DE #HELLY AND -ESA 6ERDE 4USAYANS VERY EXISTENCE ENABLED 0RESIDENT 4EDDY 2OOSEVELT TO ACCORD NATIONAL MONUMENT STATUS TO THE ENTIRE CANYON SEE P ! SMALL ON SITE MUSEUM DAILY AMnPM FREE HOLDS DISPLAYS REGARDING CONTEMPORARY .AVAJO AND (OPI PEOPLES AS WELL AS YEAR OLD TWIG lGURINES AND !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOAN POTTERY FOUND NEARBY 0ARK RANGERS LEAD TOURS OF THE RUINS DAILY AT AM AND PM -JQBO1PJOU
!NOTHER COUPLE OF MILES PAST 4USAYAN 2UIN ,IPAN 0OINT RANKS IN THE TOP TIER OF 3OUTH 2IM OVERLOOKS 7HILE $ESERT 6IEW A FEW MILES EAST OFFERS A SIMILAR PROSPECT AND BETTER FACILITIES ,IPAN IS QUIETER AND BETTER POSITIONED TO APPRECIATE SEVERAL PIVOTAL EVENTS IN THE CANYON LIFE CYCLE %MERGING FROM -ARBLE #ANYON TO THE NORTH THE #OLORADO mOWS INTO VIEW JUST PAST ITS JUNCTION WITH THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO WHICH CUTS IN FROM THE EAST THROUGH THE VAST -ARBLE 0LATFORM &LANKING THE RIVER SOUTH OF THE CONmUENCE THE PLATFORMS SHEER WALLS ARE KNOWN AS THE 0ALISADES OF THE $ESERT 6ISIBLE DIRECTLY BELOW THE VIEWPOINT IS THE 4ANNER 4RAIL WHICH DESCENDS FROM THE PARKING LOT TO THE MOUTH OF 4ANNER #ANYON (ERE THE #OLORADO MAKES ITS DRAMATIC SHIFT TO THE WEST !T lRST IT MEANDERS PAST THE ERODED SLOPES OF THE 'RAND #ANYON 3ERIES TURN ING AN EXTRAVAGANT 3 CURVE AT THE MOUTH OF 5NKAR #REEK 4HE ADJACENT 5NKAR $ELTA ONCE HOSTED A LARGE !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOAN POPULATION WHO FARMED BOTH DOWN BY THE RIVER AND UP NORTH ON THE 7ALHALLA 0LATEAU )TS A BEAUTIFUL SPOT WITH DISTINCT SANDSTONE STRATA THAT STRIKE MAROON RUBY AND RASPBERRY NOTES AT SUNSET
&ARTHER WEST RIVER RUNNERS FACE THEIR lRST MAJOR WHITE WATER CHALLENGE AS THE RIVER GOUGES INTO THE 'RANITE 'ORGE AND ENTERS THE FEROCIOUS MILE LONG (ANCE 2APID
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4WENTY lVE MILES EAST OF 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE $ESERT 6IEW IS THE LAST CANYON VIEWPOINT ALONG $ESERT 6IEW $RIVE &ROM THE PARK BOUNDARY !: CONTINUES ANOTHER MILES TO 53 AT #AMERON SO $ESERT 6IEW ALSO SERVES AS THE lRST CANYON OVERLOOK FOR WESTBOUND VISITORS &EW WILL BE DISAPPOINTED AS THIS SPOT OFFERS TWO STAGGERING PANORAMAS IN ONE 4O THE NORTH FOUR MILES DISTANT THE #OLORADO APPROACHES ITS SUDDEN WESTWARD TURN &LANKING ITS EAST BANK ARE THE STARK 0ALISADES OF THE $ESERT ABOVE WHICH STRETCH THE PALLID PLAINS OF THE -ARBLE 0LATEAU BENEATH AN OVERWHELMING SKY .INETY MILES NORTHEAST BEYOND THE 6ERMILION AND %CHO CLIFFS LOOMS THE GRAY BULK OF .AVAJO -OUNTAIN $URING THE -ESOZOIC ERA WHICH ENDED SOME MILLION YEARS AGO THIS VAST SWEEP LAY BENEATH AN ADDITIONAL TO FT OF SEDIMENTARY SANDSTONE !MONG THE FEW REMAINING VESTIGES OF THAT LONG ERODED LANDSCAPE IS THE REDDISH MESA OF #EDAR -OUNTAIN A MILE OR TWO BACK FROM THE RIM /FF TO THE WEST BY CONTRAST THE RIVER VANISHES INTO THE 'RANITE 'ORGE ENGULFED ON ALL SIDES BY BUTTES AND MESAS TEMPLES SHRINES AND TABERNACLES )N THE MORNING THESE PRESENT AN EXTRAORDINARY ARRAY OF COLORS AND SHAPES $AWN BRINGS RICH GOLDS AND REDS WHICH GRADUALLY BLEACH AWAY UNDER THE RISING SUN WHILE TOWARD DUSK THE FORMATIONS WEAVE SHADOWY INTERLEAVING SCREENS DEVOID OF ALL FORM AND DIMENSION 7HAT lRST DRAWS VISITORS ATTENTION HOWEVER IS A REMARKABLE STRUCTURE PERCHED ALONG THE VERY RIM n THE 7ATCHTOWER -ELDED ALMOST IMPERCEPTIBLY INTO ITS SANDSTONE SURROUNDINGS THIS CIRCULAR TOWER IS THE CROWNING ACHIEVEMENT OF ARCHITECT -ARY *ANE #OLTER SEE P #OMPLETED IN IT WAS INSPIRED BY HER STUDY OF !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOAN REMAINS THROUGHOUT THE &OUR #ORNERS REGION #OLTER MODELED ITS DESIGN ON THE 2OUND 4OWER IN SOUTHWEST #OLORADOS -ESA 6ERDE .ATIONAL 0ARK AND ITS MASONRY ON TOWERS AT (OVENWEEP .ATIONAL -ONU MENT IN SOUTHEAST 5TAH 4HE 7ATCHTOWER INCORPORATES PETROGLYPHS FOUND NEAR !SH &ORK TIMBERS FROM THE ABANDONED 'RANDVIEW (OTEL AND EVEN STONES FROM NEARBY RUINS #OLTERS AIM WAS NOT TO REPLICATE AN EXISTING )NDIAN STRUCTURE SHE SIMPLY WANTED TO PROVIDE A lTTING LANDMARK FOR &RED (ARVEYS SIGHTSEEING TOURS AND TO EDUCATE TOURISTS ABOUT ANCIENT AND MODERN .ATIVE !MERICAN CULTURE 7HILE SOME CONSIDER THE BUILDING CULTURALLY INTRUSIVE ITS HARD TO CONCEIVE OF A NEW 0ARK 3ERVICE STRUCTURE THAT DISPLAYS A FRACTION OF ITS IMAGINATION AND mAIR OR SPARKS SUCH OPENNESS AND COOPERATION FROM .ATIVE !MERICAN GROUPS /PEN DAILY BETWEEN AM AND SUNSET THE GROUND mOOR OF THE 7ATCHTOWER WAS LAID OUT AS A CEREMONIAL KIVA n THOUGH THATS HARD TO DISCERN THROUGH THE CLUTTER OF GIFTS AND SOUVENIRS 3TILL ITS WORTH A CLIMB TO ITS THREE UPPER STORIES )N THE lRST CIRCULAR CHAMBER A MURAL BY (OPI ARTIST &RED +ABOTIE DEPICTS A TRIBAL SNAKE LEGEND WHILE THE SECOND CHAMBER HOLDS REPRODUCTION PICTOGRAPHS AND PETROGLYPHS PAINTED BY A &RED (ARVEY EMPLOYEE 4HE SPARE UPPERMOST mOOR OR %AGLES .EST FEATURES PANORAMIC WINDOWS 7HILE THE ROOF IS OFF LIMITS VISITORS CAN ACCESS A SECOND mOOR OPEN AIR TERRACE COMPLETE WITH STRANGE S hREmECTOSCOPES v A SORT OF UPSIDE DOWN BOXED MIRROR DESIGNED TO ENHANCE THE AESTHETIC APPEAL OF THE VIEWS
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/VER THE YEARS THE 7ATCHTOWER HAS WELCOMED A HOST OF LESS DISTINGUISHED THOUGH USEFUL NEIGHBORS INCLUDING AN INFORMATION CENTER AND BOOKSTORE DAILY SUMMER AMnPM SPRING AND FALL AMnPM WINTER AMnPM THE $ESERT 6IEW -ARKETPLACE DAILY AMnPM A GAS STATION DAILY HR ACCESS WITH CREDIT CARD AND THE 4RADING 0OST GIFT STORE AND SNACK BAR DAILY SUMMER AMnPM SPRING AND FALL AMnPM WINTER AMnPM WHERE THE ULTRA BASIC MENU FEATURES A HAMBURGER FOR A COLD SANDWICH FOR AND A SLICE OF PIE FOR $OWN A SHORT SPUR ROAD FROM THE GAS STATION IS THE $ESERT 6IEW #AMPGROUND SEE P !T FT .AVAJO 0OINT IS THE HIGHEST SPOT ALONG THE 3OUTH 2IM SERVED BY A SEPARATE PARKING LOT A FEW HUNDRED YARDS WEST OF $ESERT 6IEW 4HOUGH ITS STILL FT LOWER THAN #APE &INAL EIGHT MILES AWAY ON THE .ORTH 2IM YOU DO GET A REAL SENSE OF THE FORESTED PLATEAU ON THE FAR SIDE
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IGHER BLEAKER AND MUCH MORE REMOTE THAN THE 3OUTH 2IM THE .ORTH 2IM OF THE 'RAND #ANYON IS ONLY ACCESSIBLE TO TRAVELERS ABOUT HALF THE YEAR /NCE WINTERS lRST MAJOR SNOWFALL BLOCKS !: THE SOLE PAVED ACCESS ROAD THE ENTIRE .ORTH 2IM SECTION OF THE NATIONAL PARK REMAINS CLOSED TILL THE FOLLOWING SPRING !LTHOUGH THAT lRST SNOW TRADITIONALLY ARRIVES TOWARD THE END OF /CTOBER IN RECENT YEARS THE AREA HAS RECEIVED A MERE FRAC TION OF ITS AVERAGE ANNUAL SNOWFALL OF INCHES AND IN FOR EXAMPLE THE ROAD DID NOT CLOSE UNTIL $ECEMBER 2EGARDLESS THE ONLY PARK LODGING ON THE .ORTH 2IM 'RAND #ANYON ,ODGE ADHERES TO A lXED SCHEDULE CLOSING ON /CTOBER AND OPENING THE SECOND WEEK OF -AY $URING THE HIATUS BETWEEN ITS CLOSING AND THE lRST SNOWFALL THE PARK ITSELF REMAINS OPEN BUT NO FOOD GAS OR LODGING OTHER THAN CAMPING IS AVAILABLE AND VISITORS MUST BE PREPARED TO LEAVE AT A MOMENTS NOTICE %VEN IN PEAK SEASON THE .ORTH 2IM OFFERS A SENSE OF SPLENDID ISOLATION AS ITS ANNUAL QUOTA OF BETWEEN AND VISITORS IS LESS THAN A TENTH THAT OF THE 3OUTH 2IM 7HILE YOU WONT EXACTLY HAVE THE PLACE TO YOURSELF YOU MAY STILL FEEL AS THOUGH YOURE VENTURING INTO UNEXPLORED WILDERNESS 4HE BASIC LAYOUT IS SIMILAR TO THAT ON THE 3OUTH 2IM CENTERING ON A CLUSTER OF 0ARK 3ERVICE BUILDINGS AT "RIGHT !NGEL 0OINT WHERE THE HIGHWAY MEETS THE CANYON WITH A RIM ROAD ON NEIGHBORING 7ALHALLA 0LATEAU TO THE EAST WHERE DRIVERS CAN SAVOR ADDITIONAL LOOKOUTS 4HE DRIVE TO THE .ORTH 2IM ENTAILS A LONG HAUL ACROSS THE FORESTED +AIBAB 0LATEAU ACTUALLY THE OTHER HALF OF THE 3OUTH 2IMS #OCONINO 0LATEAU BISECTED BY THE CANYON !: IS A MUCH MORE ATTRACTIVE ROAD THAN ITS 3OUTH 2IM COUNTER PART HOWEVER SWEEPING PAST MAJESTIC STANDS OF SPRUCE ASPEN AND lR AND OPENING ON SUCCESSIVE APPEALING OFTEN mOWER lLLED NATURAL MEADOWS 4HE CANYON TOO IS SIGNIlCANTLY DIFFERENT ON THIS SIDE OF THE #OLORADO %ROSION IS FAR MORE ADVANCED LARGELY BECAUSE TWICE AS MUCH RAIN FALLS AND IT FREEZES MORE OFTEN 4HE +AIBAB 0LATEAU SLOPES SOUTH SO WATER mOWING TOWARD THE RIM HAS CUT BACK TWICE AS FAR FROM THE RIVER 4HUS MASSIVE SIDE CANYONS LACE THIS SIDE OF THE RIVER THE LARGEST OF WHICH THE LITTLE KNOWN +ANAB #ANYON EFFECTIVELY SPLITS IT IN TWO 4HE AREA KNOWN AS THE .ORTH 2IM REPRESENTS JUST THE EASTERN PORTION OF THE CANYONS NORTHERN RIM ITS WESTERN HALF MOST NOTABLY THE SUPERB 4OROWEAP /VERLOOK IS ONLY ACCESSIBLE FROM THE !RIZONA 3TRIP AND IS THEREFORE COVERED IN #HAPTER &IVE (UMAN OCCUPATION ALONG THE .ORTH 2IM HAS ALWAYS BEEN MINIMAL .ATIVE !MERICANS MERELY PASSED THROUGH IN SUMMER WHILE -ORMONS AND PROSPECTORS SELDOM VENTURED THIS WAY )N FACT APART FROM THE ODD TRAPPER AND ADVENTURER THE REGION REMAINED LARGELY UNEXPLORED UNTIL GEOLOGISTS HUNTERS AND EVEN A FEW TOURISTS BEGAN TURNING UP AT THE START OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY #REWS FORGED THE
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IT CLIMBS A THOUSAND FEET REACHING THE HIGH POINT ON THE +AIBAB 0LATEAU lVE MILES SOUTH OF $E-OTTE 0ARK 4HAT BARELY PERCEPTIBLE FT RIDGE ABOUT TWELVE MILES SHORT OF THE .ORTH 2IM ROUGHLY CORRESPONDS TO THE NATIONAL PARK BOUNDARY 2ANGERS AT THE .ORTH %NTRANCE 3TATION JUST BEYOND COLLECT ANY APPLICABLE FEES SEE P AND HAND OUT THE PARK NEWSPAPER 4HE 'UIDE WHICH IS PUBLISHED IN SEPARATE EDITIONS FOR EACH RIM 4HE ROAD DESCENDS GRADUALLY SOUTH ANOTHER SIX MILES TO &ULLER #ANYON 2OAD THE ACCESS ROAD TO THE 7ALHALLA 0LATEAU OVERLOOKS SEE P THEN THREE MORE MILES TO ROADS END ALONG THE WAY PASSING TURNOFFS FOR THE BACKCOUNTRY OFlCE THE .ORTH +AIBAB 4RAILHEAD AND THE CAMPGROUND 9OU NEVER QUITE SEE THE CANYON FROM THE HIGHWAY WHICH ENDS AT A TURNA ROUND IN FRONT OF 'RAND #ANYON ,ODGE WITH SEVERAL LARGE PARKING LOTS OFF TO THE LEFT
5SBOTQPSUBUJPOBOEUPVST 7HILE YOU WONT lND ANY FREE SHUTTLE BUSES OR ORGANIZED SIGHTSEEING TOURS AT THE .ORTH 2IM THE 4RANSCANYON 3HUTTLE DOES OFFER DAILY VAN SERVICE TO THE 3OUTH 2IM ,EAVING FROM 'RAND #ANYON ,ODGE AT AM IT REACHES THE 3OUTH 2IM AT NOON THEN DEPARTS AT PM FOR A PM RETURN TO THE LODGE &ARES RUN ONE WAY FOR ADULTS AND FOR CHILDREN AND UNDER OR ROUND TRIP FOR RESPECTIVELY CASH ONLY 4HERES ALSO A HIKER SHUTTLE TO THE .ORTH +AIBAB 4RAILHEAD WHICH LEAVES THE LODGE AT AM AND AM DAILY )T COSTS FOR THE lRST PERSON IN YOUR GROUP AND FOR EACH ADDITIONAL PASSENGER ! DESK IN THE LODGE LOBBY HANDLES RESERVATIONS FOR .ORTH 2IM MULE RIDES WWWCANYONRIDESCOM ! ONE HOUR RIM EDGE RIDE COSTS WHILE TWO HALF DAY OPTIONS n EITHER ALONG THE RIM TO 5NCLE *IM 0OINT OR DOWN THE .ORTH +AIBAB AS FAR AS THE 3UPAI 4UNNEL n COST ! FULL DAY RIDE DOWN TO 2OARING 3PRINGS AND BACK IS 4HERE ARE NO OVERNIGHT TRIPS 4HE MINIMUM AGE LIMIT IS FOR THE ONE HOUR RIDES FOR THE HALF DAY RIDES AND FOR THE FULL DAY TRIP 'PSNPSFJOGPSNBUJPOBCPVUCBDLDPVOUSZQFSNJUTBOEUSBJMTGSPNUIF/PSUI3JN UVSO UP$IBQUFS5ISFF i)JLJOHUIFJOOFSDBOZPOw
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4HE RAMBLING ATTRACTIVE 'RAND #ANYON ,ODGE A GLORIlED LOG CABIN IN THE lNEST NATIONAL PARK TRADITION IS POISED MAJESTICALLY ON THE PROMONTORY THAT ENDS AT "RIGHT !NGEL 0OINT $ESIGNED BY 'ILBERT 3TANLEY 5NDERWOOD IT WAS BUILT IN FOR THE 5NION 0ACIlC 2AILROAD n NOT THAT ITS TRAINS PASSED ANYWHERE NEARBY )NSTEAD THE COMPANY WOULD BRING EXCURSIONISTS HERE ON BUS TOURS THAT ALSO VISITED :ION AND "RYCE #ANYON !FTER THE LODGE BURNED DOWN IN IT WAS REBUILT IN USING A BIT MORE STONE AND A BIT LESS TIMBER 4HE 0ARK 3ERVICE TOOK IT OVER IN WHEN 5NION 0ACIlC CLOSED DOWN 4O THE RIGHT OF THE LOBBY IS THE LODGES LOVELY DINING ROOM SEE OPPOSITE WHILE STEPS STRAIGHT AHEAD DESCEND TO THE BUILDINGS BEST FEATURE A SPACIOUS VIEW ING LOUNGE KNOWN AS THE 3UN 2OOM WHERE ROWS OF COMFORTABLE ARMCHAIRS FACE HUGE PICTURE WINDOWS 4HE FOREGROUND VIEW HERE IS OF THE SIDE CANYON KNOWN AS 4HE 4RANSEPT THE CANYON PROPER LIES BEYOND THOUGH YOU DONT SO MUCH SEE IT AS SENSE THE VAST VOID /PEN PATIOS TO EITHER SIDE OF THE 3UN 2OOM BECKON YOU TO RELAX AND ENJOY THE SPECTACLE 4HE SMALLER PATIO TO THE RIGHT OFFERS INDIVIDUAL READING CHAIRS WHILE THE ONE TO THE LEFT HOLDS RANKS OF LONG BENCHES MAKING IT AN IDEAL VENUE FOR RANGER TALKS RECENT SEASONS HAVE OFFERED DAILY TALKS ABOUT CONDORS AT PM AND CANYON GEOLOGY AT PM 3HORT FOOTPATHS LEAD DOWN TO RAILED OVERLOOKS EVERY BIT AS DRAMATIC AS THE POINT ITSELF n AND INVARIABLY PACKED AT SUNSET
"DDPNNPEBUJPO 'UEST ROOMS AT 'RAND #ANYON ,ODGE LIE OUTSIDE THE MAIN BUILDING SPLIT AMONG A COMPLEX OF INDIVIDUAL CABINS AND LARGER MOTEL STYLE BLOCKS !LMOST ALL ARE ARRANGED IN TIERS ALONG THE WOODED HILLSIDE THAT mANKS THE MAIN ROAD AS THEYRE ACROSS THE ROAD FROM THE PARKING LOT THEYRE USUALLY REMARKABLY QUIET 0AVED FOOT PATHS THREAD BETWEEN THEM DIMLY LIT AT NIGHT BENEATH A SKY lLLED WITH STARS
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-EALS IN THE MAIN $INING 2OOM DAILY nAM AMnPM nPM ARE TRULY MEMORABLE 4HE ROOM ITSELF WITH ITS SOARING TIMBER CEILING IS ELEGANT AND IMPRESSIVE AND IF YOURE LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE A WINDOW TABLE ASSIGNED AT RANDOM NOT BY RESERVATION YOULL ENJOY AWESOME CANYON VIEWS 4HE FOOD A ROBUST BUT RELATIVELY MODERN INTERPRETATION OF !MERICAN RESORT CUISINE IS OF A VERY HIGH STANDARD AS WELL &OR DINNER PASTA ENTREES SUCH AS SHRIMP WITH FETA AND PINE NUTS RUN n STEAKS ARE MORE LIKE AND SPECIALS LIKE &OUR #ORNERS LIME CHICKEN OR THE SUBSTANTIAL ROASTED PORK RANCHE ROS COST !LL INCLUDE SOUP OR SALAD ,UNCH OPTIONS AT AROUND CENTER ON SANDWICHES LIGHT GRILLED SPECIALS AND SALADS WHILE BREAKFAST CAN EITHER BE A FULL BUFFET FOR AROUND OR Ì LA CARTE 3ERVICE IS FRIENDLY RATHER THAN FORMAL AND THE STAFF SEEMS ADMIRABLY KEEN TO ANSWER THE SAME OLD CANYON QUERIES FROM EVERY TABLE 2ESERVATIONS EXT ARE ACCEPTED ONLY FOR DINNER WHEN THEYRE ESSENTIAL )N FACT YOU SHOULD BOOK YOUR TABLE AS EARLY IN THE SEASON AS POSSIBLE TRYING TO DO SO ONCE YOU ARRIVE AT THE .ORTH 2IM IS LIABLE TO BE WAY TOO LATE 4URN UP WITHOUT A RESERVATION AND YOULL EAT AT PM AT THE EARLIEST THOUGH LIKELY NOT AT ALL 4WO ALTERNATIVES ANCHOR EITHER SIDE OF THE LODGE DRIVEWAY 4HE $ELI IN THE 0INES A LITTLE WINDOWLESS CAFETERIA IS OPEN DAILY FROM AM UNTIL PM SERVING VERY ORDINARY BREAKFASTS THEN DELI SANDWICHES OR SALADS FOR AROUND AND PIZZA EITHER BY THE SLICE OR WHOLE PIE n !CROSS THE WAY THE 2OUGH 2IDER 3ALOON DAILY nAM AMnPM IS A SUITABLY ROUGH HEWN BAR STOCKED WITH A WIDE RANGE OF BEERS AND LIQUOR THAT DOUBLES AS AN EARLY MORN ING ESPRESSO BAR DOLING OUT COFFEE AND PASTRIES 'ROCERIES ARE AVAILABLE AT A GENERAL STORE BY THE CAMPGROUND
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/035)3*.
4HERE ARE THREE DIFFERENT CABIN TYPES %ACH OF THE WELL APPOINTED 7ESTERN CABINS HOLDS TWO QUEEN BEDS WITH A FULL SIZE BATHROOM AND A PORCH AND CAN SLEEP UP TO FOUR PEOPLE *UST FOUR CABINS STAND CLOSE ENOUGH TO THE RIM TO OFFER CANYON VIEWS THE ONLY .ORTH 2IM LODGING OPTIONS TO DO SO THEY COST EXTRA PER NIGHT AND ARE OFTEN BOOKED AS FAR AS THIRTEEN MONTHS IN ADVANCE 4HE SPARTAN &RONTIER CABINS CAN ACCOMMODATE THREE GUESTS EACH WITH ONE DOUBLE BED AND ONE SINGLE AND HAVE SMALLER BATHROOMS WHILE THE SIMILAR 0IONEER CABINS CAPABLE OF SLEEPING lVE PEOPLE COMPRISE TWO SEPARATE BEDROOMS n ONE WITH A DOUBLE BED AND A SINGLE BED THE OTHER WITH TWO SINGLE BEDS n AND A SMALL BATHROOM &ARTHEST FROM THE LODGE ARE A COUPLE OF TWO STORY BLOCKS EACH OF WHICH HOLDS TWENTY HOTEL ROOMS WITH QUEEN BEDS AND PRIVATE BATHROOMS /NLY THE &RONTIER CABINS AND HOTEL ROOMS PROVIDE TELEPHONES !S THE WHOLE PLACE IS USUALLY BOOKED UP SEVERAL MONTHS IN ADVANCE RESERVA TIONS ARE ESSENTIAL CONTACT 8ANTERRA 0ARKS 2ESORTS SAME DAY OR TO CONTACT GUEST ADVANCE OR WWW GRANDCANYONNORTHRIMCOM #ANCELLATIONS ARE OFTEN AVAILABLE AT SHORT NOTICE SO KEEP CALLING IF YOUD LIKE TO RESERVE OR SWITCH ROOMS
$BNQJOH !T THE END OF A SPUR ROAD OFF !: JUST OVER A MILE NORTH OF THE LODGE THE PLEASANT .ORTH 2IM #AMPGROUND OFFERS CAR CAMPING SITES AMID THE FOREST 26 HOOKUPS ARE NOT AVAILABLE !LL SITES RUN PER NIGHT EXCEPT FOR THE FOUR THAT mANK THE RIM OF 4HE 4RANSEPT WHICH COST 2ESERVATIONS ARE
/035)3*.
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MANAGED BY 3PHERIX SAME DAY ADVANCE OR FROM OUTSIDE THE 53 WWWRESERVATIONSNPSGOV 7HILE SITES ARE OFTEN BOOKED IN ADVANCE SPACE IS ALWAYS AVAILABLE FOR BACKPACKERS BICY CLISTS AND OTHERS TRAVELING WITHOUT VEHICLES EACH .O ONE IS ALLOWED TO STAY AT THE CAMPGROUND FOR MORE THAN SEVEN NIGHTS IN A CALENDAR YEAR 4HE CAMPGROUND REOPENS EACH SPRING IN CONJUNCTION WITH THE LODGE BUT DEPENDING ON THE WEATHER IT MAY REMAIN OPEN A LITTLE LONGER AT THE END OF THE SEASON PERHAPS THROUGH LATE /CTOBER 9OULL lND THE GENERAL STORE GAS STATION AND COIN OPERATED LAUNDRY AND SHOWERS JUST OUTSIDE THE GATES &OR DETAILS ABOUT BACKCOUNTRY CAMPING WITHIN THE PARK SEE #HAPTER 4HREE #AMPING IS ALSO AVAILABLE OUTSIDE PARK BOUNDARIES IN THE +AIBAB .ATIONAL &OREST CONTACT .ORTH 2IM OR +AIBAB 0LATEAU VISITOR CENTERS FOR DETAILS OR IN CAMP GROUNDS AT *ACOB ,AKE SEE P AND $E-OTTE 0ARK SEE P
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#SJHIU"OHFM1PJOU ! SHORT PAVED TRAIL STARTING TO THE LEFT OF 'RAND #ANYON ,ODGE LEADS TO THE VERY TIP OF "RIGHT !NGEL 0OINT 7HILE ITS AN EASY WALK THE PATH DOES RISE AND FALL A BIT WITH SHEER DROPS TO EITHER SIDE IN PLACES 4HIS PROMONTORY JUTS BETWEEN TWO RELATIVELY MINOR TRIBUTARY CANYONS n THE DEEP 4RANSEPT TO YOUR RIGHT AND THE MIGHTY RED WALL OF 2OARING 3PRINGS #ANYON TO YOUR LEFT
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&OUR HUNDRED YARDS ALONG YOULL REACH THE SANCTUARY OF A RAILED VIEW ING AREA BACKED BY MASSIVE BOULDERS THAT DAREDEVILS CLIMB IN SEARCH OF SOLITUDE 7HILE THE PROSPECT AHEAD IS JUSTLY RANKED AMONG THE GREAT PARK PANORAMAS THE 'RAND #ANYON PROPER IS ALL BUT OBSCURED BY LONG STRAIGHT "RIGHT !NGEL #ANYON WHICH CUTS AT AN OBLIQUE ANGLE ACROSS YOUR ENTIRE lELD OF VIEW "RIGHT !NGEL #ANYON IS SO UNUSUALLY STRAIGHT BECAUSE IT WAS FORMED AT LEAST IN PART BY SEISMIC ACTION )T THEREFORE FOLLOWS THE LINE OF THE "RIGHT !NGEL &AULT WHICH SPAWNED EARTHQUAKES RESPONSIBLE FOR CREATING BOTH THIS AND CORRESPOND ING CANYONS SOUTH OF THE RIVER SEE P !WAY TO THE RIGHT YOU CAN JUST ABOUT SEE WHERE IT JOINS THE 'RAND #ANYON PROPER BUT NONE OF THE )NNER 'ORGE LET ALONE THE #OLORADO 2IVER IS VISIBLE 9OU MAY HEAR THE SOUND OF RUSHING WATER BUT ITS COMING FROM 2OARING 3PRINGS MUCH CLOSER TO HAND ALMOST FEET BELOW WHICH SUPPLIES ALL THE WATER USED BY THE PARK ON BOTH RIMS SEE P -ENTALLY EXTENDING THE LINE OF "RIGHT !NGEL #ANYON ACROSS TO THE FAR SIDE REVEALS THE FAULT CONTINUING UP TO THE 3OUTH 2IM THOUGH ITS HARD TO SPOT A SIGN OF LIFE AT 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE ELEVEN MILES AWAY UNTIL THE SUN GOES DOWN AND THE LIGHTS START TO mICKER 4HAT SIMPLE TURN OF THE HEAD ALSO TRACES THE EASIEST TRANS CANYON HIKING ROUTE n THE .ORTH +AIBAB 4RAIL WHICH DROPS DOWN TO THE #OLORADO ON THIS SIDE VIA 2OARING 3PRINGS AND "RIGHT !NGEL CANYONS AND CLIMBS UP VIA THE MATCHING "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL ACROSS THE RIVER /N FOOT THATS A MILE ONE WAY HIKE /N A CLEAR DAY YOU CAN SEE FAR BEYOND THE 3OUTH 2IM TO THE 3AN &RANCISCO 0EAKS NEAR &LAGSTAFF 4HE HIGHEST POINT ON THE HORIZON FT (UMPHREYS 0EAK IS MILES DISTANT )N THE CANYON BELOW SANDWICHED BETWEEN THE FAR WALL OF "RIGHT !NGEL #ANYON AND THE 3OUTH 2IM ARE SUCH PROMINENT FORMATIONS AS THE NEAT CAPPED "RAHMA 4EMPLE FRAMED BETWEEN THE LESSER $EVA AND :OROASTER TEMPLES
,BJCBC1MBUFBVUSBJMT )F YOURE REASONABLY lT AND NOT HERE ON A SCORCHING MIDSUMMER DAY THEN EVEN A BRIEF FORAY DOWN THE .ORTH +AIBAB 4RAIL SEE P HAS TO BE THE MOST SATISFYING .ORTH 2IM DAY HIKE (OWEVER A NUMBER OF LESS DEMANDING TRAILS ATOP THE +AIBAB 0LATEAU OFFER THE CHANCE TO MEANDER THROUGH PEACEFUL PONDEROSA FOREST TO LESSER KNOWN CANYON PERSPECTIVES 0ERMITS ARE NOT REQUIRED FOR DAY HIKES ON ANY OF THE TRAILS DESCRIBED BELOW !LL INNER CANYON HIKING TRAILS ARE DESCRIBED IN #HAPTER 4HREE ALONG WITH DETAILED ADVICE ON NECESSARY PREPARA TIONS AND PRECAUTIONS
5SBOTFQU5SBJM 4HE MILE 4RANSEPT 4RAIL IS A BACKWOODS ROUTE BETWEEN 'RAND #ANYON ,ODGE AND THE CAMPGROUND 2ATHER THAN WALKING ALONG THE HIGHWAY YOU PARALLEL THE SIDE CANYON KNOWN AS 4HE 4RANSEPT 4HOUGH DWARFED BY THE CANYON PROPER THE LATTER STILL PLUMMETS AN AWESOME HALF MILE BELOW THIS CLIFF SIDE PATH 3TARTING FROM THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE LODGE THE TRAIL SKIRTS THE RIM CIRCLES THE CAMPGROUND AND ENDS BESIDE THE GENERAL STORE !N ENJOYABLE ENOUGH WALK ITS NOT SO MUCH A HIKING TRAIL AS A SHORTCUT FROM ! TO " n ALMOST NO ONE TAKES IT SOLELY FOR PLEASURE
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)F YOURE LOOKING FOR A MEDIUM LENGTH DAY HIKE ON THE +AIBAB 0LATEAU THE FOUR MILE LOOP ALONG THE 5NCLE *IM 4RAIL IS YOUR BEST OPTION )T SETS OFF FROM THE SAME PARKING LOT AS THE .ORTH +AIBAB 4RAIL SEE P BESIDE THE HIGHWAY MILES NORTH OF 'RAND #ANYON ,ODGE &ROM THE MULE CORRAL AT THE EAST END OF THE LOT THE TRAIL HEADS UP INTO THE WOODS 9OULL PASS SEVERAL INSPIRING VIEWS DOWN THE LENGTH OF 2OARING 3PRINGS #ANYON BEFORE THE PATH LOSES TOUCH WITH THE RIM (ALF A MILE ALONG THE +EN 0ATRICK 4RAIL SEE BELOW FORKS LEFT WHILE THE 5NCLE *IM VEERS RIGHT !NOTHER HALF MILE FARTHER A SECOND JUNCTION MARKS THE START OF THE LOOP 7HICHEVER DIRECTION YOU CHOOSE WILL LEAD TWO MILES PAST A COUPLE OF STUNNING OVERLOOKS 4HE CLOSEST TO 5NCLE *IM 0OINT FACES EAST ACROSS THE HEAD OF "RIGHT !NGEL #ANYON TO THE 7ALHALLA 0LATEAU WHILE THE OTHER OPENS UP SOUTH TOWARD THE FAR RIM AND WEST TOWARD THE TRAILHEAD 0AUSE AT THE LATTER FOR A SUPERB VIEW OF THE .ORTH +AIBAB 4RAIL AS IT SWITCHBACKS INTO 2OARING 3PRINGS #ANYON
,FO1BUSJDL5SBJM ! MUCH LONGER PLATEAU DAY HIKE IS POSSIBLE ALONG THE +EN 0ATRICK 4RAIL "RANCHING OFF THE 5NCLE *IM 4RAIL A HALF MILE ALONG SEE ABOVE THE TEN MILE TRAIL MEETS #APE 2OYAL 2OAD SEVEN MILES FROM THE TRAILHEAD THEN CONTINUES THREE MILES FARTHER TO 0OINT )MPERIAL SEE P &EW HIKERS PASS THIS WAY WHICH MEANS ROUTE lNDING CAN BE DIFlCULT WITH THE OCCASIONAL FALLEN TREE AND LARGE PATCHES OF WASTELAND CHARRED DURING THE FEROCIOUS /UTLET &IRE OF -AY A PRESCRIBED BURN SET BY THE &OREST 3ERVICE THAT QUICKLY BLEW OUT OF CONTROL 4HE MOST SCENIC STRETCH IS THE lNAL RIM EDGE CLIMB FROM #APE 2OYAL 2OAD TO 0OINT )MPERIAL WHICH OFFERS WONDERFUL PROSPECTS OF -ARBLE 0LATEAU TO THE EAST )F YOU CAN ARRANGE TO BE DROPPED OFF ALONG THE ROAD AND PICKED UP AT THE POINT OR VICE VERSA THAT SECTION MAKES A GREAT SHORT HIKE )TS ALSO POSSIBLE TO
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4HE ONLY ROUTE VENTURING WEST FROM THE LODGE AREA THE 7IDFORSS 4RAIL LEADS TO THE TIP OF ITS EPONYMOUS HEADLAND 7HILE A RELATIVELY EASY HIKE THE OUT AND BACK ROUTE ENTAILS A TEN MILE ROUND TRIP LIKELY TO TAKE AROUND lVE HOURS 4HOSE WHO REACH THE POINT ARE REWARDED WITH TREMENDOUS VIEWS BUT THE LATTER HALF OF THE TRAIL MEANDERS AWAY FROM THE RIM THROUGH DENSE FOREST SO MOST VISITORS HIKE JUST A SHORT DISTANCE AND SETTLE FOR VIEWS CLOSER IN 4O REACH THE TRAILHEAD FOLLOW THE GRAVEL ROAD THAT HEADS WEST FROM !: A QUARTER MILE SOUTH OF ITS JUNCTION WITH &ULLER #ANYON 2OAD ROUGHLY THREE MILES NORTH OF 'RAND #ANYON ,ODGE .OTE THAT THE GRAVEL ROAD CONTINUES FOR SEVENTEEN MILES TO 0OINT 3UBLIME AS DESCRIBED ON P BUT IS ONLY RECOM MENDED FOR 7$ VEHICLES ! HALF MILE ALONG THE ROAD YOULL REACH (ARVEY -EADOW WHERE WITH LUCK A DISPENSER SHOULD HOLD COPIES OF A 0ARK 3ERVICE BROCHURE HIGHLIGHTING FOURTEEN NUMBERED POINTS ALONG THE lRST TWO MILES OF THE TRAIL &ROM THE MEADOW THE TRAIL CLIMBS GENTLY TO FORESTED ROCKY OUTCROPS AND ITS lRST GLIMPSE OF THE YAWNING CHASM OF 4HE 4RANSEPT /NWARD THE UNDULATING TRAIL MEANDERS BETWEEN THE RIM AND THE WOODS FOR REPEATED VARIATIONS ON A THEME *UST SHY OF TWO MILES IN YOULL REACH A BROAD PANORAMA AT THE VERY HEAD OF 4HE 4RANSEPT 4O THIS POINT YOUR TRUSTY BROCHURE WILL HAVE IDENTIlED NOTABLE SPECIMENS OF PONDEROSA PINE OAK ASPEN AND MAPLE AS WELL AS A DRONING SEWAGE TREATMENT FACILITY CONCEALED BENEATH THE LODGE &ROM HERE THE TRAIL PLUMBS THE FOREST DEPTHS FOR JUST OVER TWO MILES 9OULL EVENTUALLY EMERGE AT A STUNNING OVERLOOK THAT FACES DUE SOUTH 7HILE "RIGHT !NGEL 0OINT IS HIDDEN FROM VIEW FARTHER EAST BY WAY OF COMPENSATION THE CORE OF THE 'RAND #ANYON LIES BEFORE YOU 3TRAIGHT AHEAD RISE "UDDHA AND )SIS TEMPLES BEYOND WHICH ALL OF 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE AND SURROUNDING #OCONINO 0LATEAU SPREAD OUT FOR YOUR DELIGHT 3TRICTLY SPEAKING YOURE NOT QUITE AT 7IDFORSS 0OINT WHICH IS THE STARK HEADLAND A FEW HUNDRED YARDS TO YOUR LEFT BUT IN THE ABSENCE OF A PERMA NENT ONWARD TRAIL YOUD DO BEST TO SETTLE FOR WHAT YOUVE GOT "OTH TRAIL AND POINT WERE NAMED FOR 'UNNAR -AURITZ 7IDFORSS THE SO CALLED h0AINTER OF THE .ATIONAL 0ARKS v WHO WAS BORN IN 3WEDEN IN AND WAS RENOWNED FOR HIS VIVID 'RAND #ANYON WATERCOLORS
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YOU WONT lND FACILITIES OF ANY KIND 4HAT INCLUDES GAS STATIONS SO BE SURE YOUR TANK IS FULL ENOUGH FOR A ROUND TRIP OF AT LEAST lFTY MILES )T TAKES PERHAPS HALF A DAY TO SEE THE WHOLE AREA THOROUGHLY AND THE VIEWS ARE GENERALLY BEST AS THE AFTERNOON PROGRESSES )F YOU DONT MIND DRIVING BACK IN THE DARK TRY TO SCHEDULE YOUR ARRIVAL AT #APE 2OYAL THE PLATEAUS SOUTHERN TIP DURING THE HOUR OR SO LEADING UP TO SUNSET
4O REACH THE PLATEAU START OUT EAST ALONG &ULLER #ANYON 2OAD OFF !: THREE MILES NORTH OF THE LODGE &IVE MILES ALONG YOULL REACH A JUNCTION WHERE 0OINT )MPERIAL 2OAD BRANCHES NORTH WHILE #APE 2OYAL 2OAD TURNS SOUTH CROSSES THE NECK OF THE PLATEAU AND WINDS THROUGH COOL DENSE WOODS 4HE JUNC TION STILL BEARS SCARS FROM THE /UTLET &IRE OF -AY
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"EFORE OR AFTER YOUR EXPLORATION OF THE 7ALHALLA 0LATEAU ITS WELL WORTH MAKING THE SHORT DETOUR TO 0OINT )MPERIAL A GRADUAL THREE MILE CLIMB FROM THE INTERSECTION DESCRIBED ABOVE !T FT THIS IS THE HIGHEST SPOT ALONG THE ENTIRE CANYON RIM 4O REACH THE VIEWPOINT YOULL HAVE TO DESCEND A SHORT DISTANCE FROM THE PARKING LOT *UTTING OUT JUST BELOW THE OVERLOOK IS A LONG SANDY RED RIDGE CAPPED BY A STARK BUTTE 3TARING DOWN INTO THE DRY AS DUST LABYRINTH YOULL lND IT VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO GUESS WHICH GORGE CHANNELS THE #OLORADO )N FACT ALMOST EVERYTHING YOU SEE BELOW LIES ON THE NEAR SIDE OF THE RIVER 7HILE THE CANYON HERE IS MORE THAN NINE MILES WIDE THE RIVER IS LESS THAN A MILE FROM THE SHEER WALL OF THE $ESERT &ACADE ON THE FAR SIDE 4HE LANDSCAPE BEYOND THE CANYON STRETCHES FOR A PHENOMENAL DISTANCE 4HE VAST -ARBLE 0LATFORM IS ALMOST FT LOWER THAN 0OINT )MPERIAL SO A HUGE SWATHE OF THE .AVAJO )NDIAN 2ESERVATION LIES mAT AND BARE BEFORE YOU !BOUT THE ONLY BREAKS IN THE MONOTONY ARE THE SLIGHT HUMP OF DISTANT .AVAJO -OUN TAIN AND THE CUT CREATED BY THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO 2IVER WHERE IT RUSHES TO MEET ITS ELDER SIBLING !N OVERLOOK CLOSER TO THE PARKING LOT LABELED .ORTHEAST 6IEW PROVIDES AN EVEN BETTER PROSPECT OF THE -ARBLE 0LATFORM 4HROUGH A NOTCH BETWEEN TWO MINOR PEAKS YOU CAN SEE -ARBLE #ANYONS SNAKELIKE PATH THROUGH THE ROCK mANKED BY THE 6ERMILION #LIFFS TO THE WEST AND %CHO #LIFFS TO THE EAST ! DOT WHERE THE TWO SEEM TO MEET MARKS ,EES &ERRY
/035)3*.
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7JTUB&ODBOUBEB 4HE 7ALHALLA 0LATEAU IS NARROWEST AT ITS NORTHERN END WHERE IT CLINGS TO THE REST OF THE .ORTH 2IM BY A SLENDER THREAD !T SOME POINT IT WILL PRESUM
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/035)3*.
ABLY BECOME A MIGHTY DETACHED MESA FOR THE MOMENT HOWEVER #APE 2OYAL 2OAD MANAGES TO WRIGGLE ONTO THE PLATEAU &OUR MILES PAST THE NECK LIES 6ISTA %NCANTADA WHICH FACES NORTHEAST 4HE VIEWS HERE ARE SIMILAR TO THOSE FROM 0OINT )MPERIAL AS BOTH OVERLOOK THE BASIN OF .ANKOWEAP #REEK WHICH CONTINUES TO WEAR AWAY THE CURVING RIM BETWEEN THE TWO POINTS /NCE AGAIN THE #OLORADO IS HIDDEN FROM VIEW BUT THE PALE GREEN mATLANDS OF THE .AVAJO RESERVATION SPREAD AWAY ENDLESSLY INTO THE HAZE 0ICNIC TABLES MAKE THIS A POPULAR SPOT FOR MIDDAY BREAKS
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&ORMERLY CALLED THE 0AINTED $ESERT /VERLOOK 2OOSEVELT 0OINT WAS RENAMED IN THE S IN HONOR OF 0RESIDENT 4HEODORE 2OOSEVELT n AN EARLY CHAMPION OF THE 'RAND #ANYON )TS ONLY TWO MILES FROM 6ISTA %NCANTADA SO THE CANYON VIEWS ARE SIMILAR AND .AVAJO -OUNTAIN STILL RISES FROM THE NORTHEAST HORIZON EIGHTY MILES DISTANT BUT THE NEW PERSPECTIVE OPENS UP ADDITIONAL .AVAJO .ATION PANORAMAS 4O THE SOUTHEAST YOU CAN CATCH AT LEAST A HINT OF THE 0AINTED $ESERT BADLANDS WHICH EXTEND SOUTHEAST FROM #AMERON TO THE 0ETRIlED &OREST OUTSIDE (OLBROOK 4HE NAME CHANGE WAS APPROPRIATE HOWEVER AS THE MORE COLORFUL DESERT SANDS LIE WELL BEYOND SIGHT 2OOSEVELT 0OINT ALSO PROVIDES A UNIQUE HEAD ON VIEW OF THE CONmUENCE OF THE #OLORADO AND ,ITTLE #OLORADO /DDLY THE RIVERS MEET AT RIGHT ANGLES THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO EMERGING FROM ITS OWN SHEER SIDED HALF MILE DEEP GORGE 'EOLOGISTS PUZZLE OVER HOW THAT CAME ABOUT SOME SUGGESTING THE #OLORADO ITSELF ONCE mOWED EAST THROUGH THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO GORGE BEFORE BEING SOME HOW hCAPTUREDv AND SET ON ITS PRESENT WESTWARD COURSE
$BQF'JOBM &OR SIX MILES BEYOND 2OOSEVELT 0OINT #APE 2OYAL 2OAD KEEPS TO THE FOREST 9OUR ONE CHANCE AT A CANYON VIEW COMES TOWARD THE END OF THAT STRETCH AT THE TRAILHEAD FOR A FOUR MILE ROUND TRIP HIKE TO REMOTE #APE &INAL "Y NOW YOURE CLOSE ENOUGH TO #APE 2OYAL THAT THERES NO GREAT NEED TO ADD YET ANOTHER OVERLOOK TO YOUR ITINERARY 4HE REASON TO PAUSE HERE IS IF YOU JUST PLAIN LIKE THE IDEA OF SPEND ING A COUPLE OF HOURS ON AN EASY TRAIL THROUGH THE WOODS AWAY FROM THE CROWDS AND WITH THE BONUS OF A COUPLE OF ISOLATED PROSPECTS OF THE INNER CANYON 4HE #APE &INAL 4RAIL LEADS UPHILL FROM A SMALL CLEARING EXACTLY MILES SOUTH OF THE 0OINT )MPERIAL 2OAD INTERSECTION 4HE PARKING LOT ITSELF IS A LONG WAY FROM THE RIM AND OFFERS NO VIEWS WHATSOEVER 4HOUGH YOUD NEVER KNOW TO LOOK AT IT THE RUDIMENTARY DIRT TRACK THAT MEANDERS AWAY FROM IT THROUGH THE PINES WAS ONCE A FULL mEDGED PARK ROAD )T SOON LEVELS OFF THEN DESCENDS GENTLY SUDDENLY EMERGING ON THE RIM AT A BIG NORTHEASTWARD VIEW *UST OFF TO THE LEFT THE COLOSSAL MONOLITHS 0OSTON "UTTE AND 3IEGFRIED 0YRE SOAR ALMOST TO THE RIM WHILE THE #HUAR 6ALLEY SLOPES TOWARD THE RIVER 4URNING RIGHT AWAY FROM THE RIM THE TRAIL THINS OUT !S THE PONDEROSAS DWIN DLE TO BE REPLACED BY OAK AND PI×ON IT CROSSES TO THE SOUTH SIDE OF THIS MINOR HEADLAND AND ENDS AT A SOUTH FACING OVERLOOK "ELOW THE #OLORADO IS NOW CLEARLY VISIBLE AS IT TUMBLES TOGETHER WITH 5NKAR #REEK TO CREATE THE 5NKAR $ELTA 2APID AS DESCRIBED BELOW
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! MILE PAST THE #APE &INAL TRAILHEAD 7ALHALLA /VERLOOK IS A RIM SIDE PARK ING AREA THAT OFFERS ANOTHER lNE VIEW DOWN TO THE CONmUENCE OF 5NKAR #REEK AND THE #OLORADO ALMOST EXACTLY A MILE BELOW "OASTING SOME OF THE CANYONS
/035)3*.
]8BMIBMMB1MBUFBV
MOST FERTILE FARMING LAND THE 5NKAR $ELTA WAS HOME TO A THRIVING !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOAN COMMUNITY AROUND A THOUSAND YEARS AGO 4HEY GREW CORN SQUASH AND BEANS ON IRRIGATED lELDS CLOSE TO THE RIVER AND TERRACES AT HIGHER DRIER ELEVATIONS !S THE POPULATION INCREASED THE GROUP ADOPTED A SOPHISTICATED STRATEGY TO EXPLOIT RESOURCES ALONG THE RIM 7ITH ITS HEAVY ANNUAL SNOWFALL MOST OF THE .ORTH 2IM IS SIMPLY TOO COLD TO SUPPORT AGRICULTURE BUT THE 7ALHALLA 0LATEAU IS A UNIQUE CASE %FFECTIVELY A PENINSULA IT IS WARMED ON ALL SIDES BY RISING AIR FROM THE CANYON DEPTHS -ORE THAN A HUNDRED ANCIENT FARMING SITES HAVE BEEN IDENTIlED IN THE 7ALHALLA 'LADES NEAR THE PLATEAUS SOUTHERN TIP !FTER WINTERING ON THE CANYON mOOR THE !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOANS WOULD CLIMB OUT IN EARLY SPRING ALONG THE LINE OF 5NKAR #REEK n THERES NO TRAIL NOW BUT BACK THEN IT WAS A FAST DIRECT ROUTE 4HE GROUP WOULD PLANT CROPS WHERE THEYD BE FED BY SNOWMELT AND STORE SNOW IN JARS TO WATER SEEDLINGS AS THEY GREW 4HE FALL HARVEST SEASON COINCIDED WITH THE BEST TIME TO HUNT DEER AND OTHER GAME !CROSS THE ROAD FROM THE OVERLOOK A SHORT TRAIL LEADS THROUGH A HUNDRED YARDS OF CHARRED FOREST TO THE FOUNDATION OF A SMALL PUEBLO !RCHEOLOGISTS THINK THAT A FAMILY OF AROUND TWENTY MEMBERS OCCUPIED THE CENTRAL SIX ROOM STRUCTURE BETWEEN ABOUT AND )N TRUTH THESE CRUDE STONE PILES ARE HARDLY A SPECTACULAR SIGHT n CERTAINLY NOT FOR ANYONE FAMILIAR WITH ANCIENT RUINS ELSEWHERE IN THE 3OUTHWEST n BUT THEY DO OFFER AN EMOTIVE REMINDER OF THE CANYONS LONG HUMAN HISTORY
$MJGG4QSJOH5SBJM ! QUARTER MILE PAST 7ALHALLA /VERLOOK ANOTHER MINOR OVERLOOK FEATURES VIEWS OF #APE 2OYAL IN PARTICULAR !NGELS 7INDOW SEE BELOW 4HE SAME PARK ING LOT SERVES AS THE START OF THE SHORT #LIFF 3PRING 4RAIL WHICH CROSSES THE ROAD AND THEN DESCENDS WEST ALONG A DRY GRAVELLY STREAMBED 3OON AFTER PASSING A REMARKABLY COMPLETE !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOAN GRANARY TUCKED UNDER A BOULDER YOULL REACH A DAMP MOSSY ALCOVE BENEATH THE RIM 3EEPAGE FROM THE OVERHANGING +AIBAB LIMESTONE COLLECTS IN SMALL POOLS BUT THE WATER IS NOT SAFE TO DRINK ! ROUND TRIP HIKE THIS FAR IS ABOUT A MILE AND TAKES LESS THAN HALF AN HOUR /NWARD AS FAR AGAIN THE DIFlCULT TRAIL REQUIRES SOME SCRAMBLING TO REACH IMPRES SIVE WESTWARD VIEWS %VENTUALLY THE LEDGE YOURE ON DWINDLES TO NOTHING BESIDE A THOUSAND FOOT DROP AND YOURE FORCED TO TURN BACK
$BQF3PZBM !T #APE 2OYAL WHERE THE 7ALHALLA 0LATEAU PETERS OUT THE PROMONTORY EXTENDS FAR INTO THE CANYON AND IS CONSTANTLY BATHED BY WARM AIR CURRENTS !S A RESULT THE PONDEROSA DISAPPEARS AND PI×ON JUNIPER WOODLAND PREDOMINATES 4HERES NOTHING TO SEE FROM THE UNREMARKABLE LOOP PARKING LOT MILES FROM THE 0OINT )MPERIAL 2OAD JUNCTION (OWEVER A LEVEL PAVED NATURE TRAIL WITH IDENTIFYING LABELS LEADS TO THE TWO PRINCIPAL OVERLOOKS ! ROUND TRIP HIKE OF ROUGHLY HALF A MILE ITS JUST LONG ENOUGH TO WARRANT WEARING PROPER SHOES AND CARRYING DRINKING WATER 9OULL lRST REACH !NGELS 7INDOW A WEDGE SHAPED NATURAL ARCH THAT PERFECTLY FRAMES A SEGMENT OF THE #OLORADO 2IVER 5NLESS YOURE ESPECIALLY AFRAID OF HEIGHTS TURN LEFT OFF THE MAIN TRAIL ONTO A BRIEF SPUR THAT CROSSES THE WINDOW ON AN EXTREMELY NARROW RAILED PATH )T ENDS ATOP AN EQUALLY VERTIGINOUS RAILED SLAB WITH VIEWS ACROSS THE .AVAJO mATLANDS 4WO BROAD GREEN TRIMMED STRETCHES OF RIVER LIE BELOW INCLUDING FOAMY 5NKAR #REEK 2APID
/035)3*.
]8FTUFSO,BJCBC1MBUFBV
! COUPLE OF HUNDRED YARDS FARTHER ALONG THE MAIN TRAIL #APE 2OYAL OFFERS BROAD WESTWARD VIEWS THAT RANGE NEARLY THE FULL DEGREES THOUGH AN INTERVENING RIDGE OBSCURES "RIGHT !NGEL 0OINT 4HIS IS THE ONLY 7ALHALLA VIEW POINT OVERLOOKING THE CENTRAL PORTION OF THE 'RAND #ANYON INCLUDING SUCH MAJOR LANDMARKS AS 7OTANS 4HRONE AND 6ISHNU 4EMPLE STRAIGHT AHEAD AND "RAHMA AND :OROASTER TEMPLES OFF TO THE RIGHT !S THE CROW mIES THE CANYON HERE IS ROUGHLY EIGHT MILES WIDE )N THEORY MOST OF THE BEST KNOWN 3OUTH 2IM VIEWPOINTS SHOULD BE VISIBLE INCLUDING $ESERT 6IEW BACKED BY mAT TOPPED #EDAR -OUNTAIN AS WELL AS 9AKI 9AVAPAI (OPI AND 0IMA POINTS 7ITHOUT STRONG BINOCULARS HOWEVER ITS HARD TO DISTINGUISH ONE FROM THE NEXT THOUGH THE 7ATCHTOWER AT $ESERT 6IEW STANDS OUT IF YOU KNOW WHERE TO LOOK )TS TEMPTING TO LEAVE THE PATH AND LEDGE HOP EVEN CLOSER TO THE RIM BUT BEAR IN MIND THAT THIS SITE IS NOTORIOUS FOR FATAL FALLS FROM ITS CRUMBLING STONE SLABS
8FTUFSO,BJCBC1MBUFBV .ORTH 2IM VISITORS ARE OFTEN FRUSTRATED THAT SUCH A VAST AREA SEEMS TO HOLD SO FEW ROADS 9OU CANT HELP FEELING THAT A WEALTH OF SPECTACULAR SCENERY LIES JUST OUT OF REACH )N FACT GET HOLD OF A GOOD MAP n IDEALLY THE .ORTH +AIBAB 2ANGER $ISTRICT PUBLISHED BY THE +AIBAB .ATIONAL &OREST OR THE ",- !RIZONA 3TRIP &IELD /FlCES 6ISITOR -AP THOUGH NOT !!!S OTHERWISE RELIABLE )NDIAN #OUNTRY n AND YOULL SOON REALIZE THERE ARE PLENTY OF MINOR ROADS OUT THERE 4HE TROUBLE IS ALL ARE GRAVEL OR DIRT AND WHILE THE OVERALL PICTURE HAS IMPROVED CONSIDERABLY IN RECENT YEARS MANY REMAIN ACCESSIBLE ONLY TO HIGH CLEARANCE 7$ VEHICLES 4HE MOST REWARDING ROUTES RUN WEST OF "RIGHT !NGEL 0OINT AND !: LARGELY WITHIN THE +AIBAB .ATIONAL &OREST )N THIS hLAND OF MANY USES v THE ROADS ARE MAINTAINED FOR LOGGING TRUCKS AND THE LIKE AND THUS ARE OFTEN PASSABLE IN STANDARD VEHICLES (OWEVER THE CANYON RIM LIES INSIDE NATIONAL PARK BOUNDAR IES AND ITS OFTEN THOSE lNAL STRETCHES ALONG 0ARK 3ERVICE ROADS TO THE VIEWPOINTS THAT REQUIRE 7$ "EFORE DRIVING ANYWHERE ITS ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL TO ASK FOR ADVICE AT EITHER THE 53&3 +AIBAB 0LATEAU 6ISITOR #ENTER IN *ACOB ,AKE SEE P OR THE .ORTH 2IM 6ISITOR #ENTER 2ANGERS CAN PROVIDE YOU WITH EXCELLENT MAPS AND SUGGEST THE BEST ROADS WHICH MAY WELL ENTAIL A CONVOLUTED ROUTE RATHER THAN THE SHORTEST 2OAD CLOSURES CAN VARY FROM DAY TO DAY DEPENDING ON SUCH FACTORS AS WEATHER AND WHERE ANY PRESCRIBED OR NATURAL lRES MIGHT BE BURNING $ONT FOLLOW YOUR WHIMS OR UNDERESTIMATE HOW MUCH TIME IT MAY TAKE n VISITING MORE THAN ONE OVERLOOK MAY WELL REQUIRE AN HOUR OR MORE OF BACKTRACKING 7HILE ON THE BETTER ROADS ITS OFTEN POSSIBLE TO DRIVE ABOUT FORTY MILES PER HOUR EXPECT TO AVERAGE MORE LIKE TWENTY MILES PER HOUR 4HE PICK OF LITERALLY DOZENS OF POSSIBILITIES ROUTES DESCRIBED BELOW LEAD TO NOTABLE TRAILHEADS AND EXCEPTIONAL VIEWPOINTS 4HESE ROADS ARE SELDOM LESS THAN RAVISHING PARTICULARLY IN 3EPTEMBER AND EARLY /CTOBER WHEN FALL COLORS ARE IN FULL SWING
1PJOU4VCMJNF )N THE ESTIMATION OF #LARENCE $UTTON THE PIONEER SURVEYOR WHO NAMED IT IN 0OINT 3UBLIME IS PERHAPS THE lNEST OF ALL 'RAND #ANYON VIEWPOINTS
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7EST OF 0OINT 3UBLIME BOTH THE #OLORADO AND CANYON RIM CURVE NORTHWARD 7HILE THE NEXT MAJOR PROMONTORY THE 0OWELL 0LATEAU RISES HIGHER THAN THE REST OF THE .ORTH 2IM AND APPROACHES WITHIN TWO MILES OF THE RIVER IT IS DETACHED FROM THE RIM AND OFFERS NO ACCESSIBLE VISTAS 4HE CLOSEST VANTAGE 3WAMP 0OINT SITS JUST ABOVE -UAV 3ADDLE THE SHORT SPAN A THOUSAND FEET BELOW THE RIM THAT LEADS TO THE PLATEAU !S WELL AS OVERLOOKING THE PLATEAU n WHICH THOUGH IT HOLDS NO PERMANENT WATER SUSTAINED A SIZABLE !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOAN POPULATION n 3WAMP 0OINT COMMANDS A lNE NORTHWEST PROSPECT CENTERING ON 4APEATS !MPHITHEATER %VEN SO FEW VISITORS DRIVE HERE JUST TO ENJOY THE VIEW -OST COME TO ACCESS TRAILHEADS FOR THE GRUELING ADVANCED .ORTH "ASS 4RAIL SEE P AND SHORTER 0OWELL 3ADDLE 4RAIL A lVE MILE HIKE ONTO THE 0OWELL 0LATEAU /NCE AGAIN 7$ IS ESSENTIAL AND EVEN THAT WONT HELP YOU BEFORE EARLY *UNE AS THE PREVIOUS WINTERS FALLEN TREES OFTEN BLOCK THE WAY /NCE RANGERS GIVE THE ALL CLEAR DRIVE LESS THAN A MILE SOUTH OF $E-OTTE 0ARK ON !: AND TURN RIGHT ON &OREST $EVELOPMENT 2OAD &$2 WHICH CLIMBS DUE WEST !FTER MILES TURN LEFT ON &$2 AND DRIVE MILES THEN TURN RIGHT ON &$2 SIGNED &)2% 0/).4 !FTER MILES TURN LEFT ON &$2 AND FOLLOW THE SIGNS WHICH AFTER MILE SHOULD LEAD YOU THROUGH A LEFT TURN ONTO &$2 " *UST OVER A MILE FARTHER YOULL ENTER THE PARK WHERE ROAD CONDITIONS DETERIORATE OVER THE REMAINING MILES TO THE POINT
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/035)3*.
5NFORTUNATELY FOR LESS HARDY MODERN VISITORS IT STANDS AT THE END OF A SEVEN TEEN MILE DIRT ROAD THATS USUALLY RESTRICTED TO 7$ VEHICLES )F YOU HAVE ONE DRIVE THREE MILES NORTH OF 'RAND #ANYON ,ODGE ON !: THEN TURN WEST ON THE GRAVEL ROAD THAT LEADS TO THE 7IDFORSS 4RAIL SEE P ! HALF MILE PAST THE TRAILHEAD FOLLOW THE CURVE OF THE ROAD TO THE LEFT 4HE PROSPECT AT ROADS END IS ABSOLUTELY COLOSSAL EXTENDING BOTH EAST AND WEST AND INCORPORATING A GLORIOUS lFTY MILE STRETCH OF THE INNER CANYON 0OINT 3UBLIME IS CLOSER TO THE #OLORADO THAN ANY OTHER .ORTH 2IM VIEWPOINT AND THE "OUCHER 2APID RUSHES BY IN FULL VIEW BELOW THE OVERLOOK 2HAPSODIZING THAT hTHE INlNITY OF SHARPLY DElNED DETAIL IS AMAZING v $UTTON WAS ESPECIALLY STRUCK BY THE ISOLATED MESA HE CALLED 3HIVA 4EMPLE )N THE !MERICAN -USEUM OF .ATURAL (ISTORY SENT AN EXPEDITION TO THIS hLOST WORLD v HOPING THAT ITS mAT ACRE SUMMIT MIGHT HOLD SPECIES UNKNOWN TO SCIENCE !LL THEY DISCOVERED WAS THAT LARGE MAMMALS SOMEHOW MANAGE TO VISIT THE SUMMIT REGU LARLY AS DID !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOANS "ELOW AND TO THE EAST OF 0OINT 3UBLIME 4UNA #REEK WAS THE SCENE OF A DRAMATIC RESCUE IN *UNE 4HREE AIRMEN WHO PARACHUTED FROM A BOMBER AFTER ITS ENGINES FAILED DURING A TRAINING RUN WERE STRANDED DOWN THERE FOR TEN DAYS BEFORE PARK RANGERS WERE ABLE TO PLOT A ROUTE AND REACH THEM ON FOOT
'JSF1PJOU ,ITTLE MORE THAN A MILE NORTH OF 3WAMP 0OINT BUT MORE LIKELY ACCESSIBLE IN A STANDARD VEHICLE &IRE 0OINT IS ANOTHER SPECTACULAR OVERLOOK THAT FACES 'REAT 4HUMB -ESA ON THE 3OUTH 2IM AND PROVIDES A DRAMATIC SIDE VIEW OF STRIATED 0OWELL 0LATEAU 4O REACH IT START BY FOLLOWING THE DIRECTIONS TO 3WAMP 0OINT ABOVE BUT STAY STRAIGHT ON &$2 RATHER THAN TURNING LEFT ON &$2 4HE POINT LIES SIX MILES PAST THAT JUNCTION OR SIXTEEN MILES FROM !: 7HILE THE ROUTE IS USUALLY PASSABLE IN SUMMER IF YOURE DRIVING A NON 7$ VEHICLE ERR ON THE SIDE OF
CAUTION n PULL OVER A HALF MILE WITHIN THE PARK BOUNDARY AND TACKLE THE lNAL HALF MILE STRETCH ON FOOT
1BSJTTBXBNQJUUT1PJOU /035)3*.
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4HE EIGHTEEN MILE 2AINBOW 2IM 4RAIL LINKS A CLUSTER OF lVE POINTS ON SEPARATE lNGERLIKE PROMONTORIES NORTH OF &IRE 0OINT 4HE .ORTH 2IMS CLOSEST EQUIVALENT TO THE 2IM 4RAIL THIS DEMANDING LITTLE USED ROUTE DIPS REPEATEDLY INTO STEEP SIDE CANYONS BETWEEN THE SUCCESSIVE DIFFERING OVERLOOKS 4HE NORTH ERNMOST OF THE lVE 0ARISSAWAMPITTS 0OINT IS THE EASIEST TO REACH BY ROAD /NCE AGAIN DRIVE LESS THAN A MILE SOUTH OF $E-OTTE 0ARK ON !: AND TURN RIGHT ON &$2 &OLLOW THAT FOR MILES THEN TURN LEFT ON &$2 AND DRIVE MILES !T &$2 TURN RIGHT AND FOLLOW THE DISTINCTLY WORSE TRACK WEST FOR EIGHT MILES PAST LOVELY SECLUDED POTENTIAL CAMPING SITES 0ARK IN THE CLEARING AT ROADS END BUT AS YOU DESCEND TOWARD THE RIM DONT GO STRAIGHT THE INTUITIVE CHOICE n INSTEAD TURN LEFT 9OULL SOON REACH CLEARINGS THAT COMMAND HUGE VISTAS ACROSS 4APEATS !MPHITHEATER TO THE 'RANITE 'ORGE WHERE THE UNSEEN #OLORADO WINDS WESTWARD TOWARD -OUNT 4RUMBULL %ACH OF THE FOUR POINTS SOUTH OF 0ARISSAWAMPITTS n FROM NORTH TO SOUTH &ENCE ,OCUST .ORTH 4IMP AND 4IMP n IS ACCESSIBLE ALONG A SEPARATE SPUR ROAD OFF &$2 SO YOU COULD LEAVE A SHUTTLE VEHICLE AT ONE OF THOSE THEN DRIVE TO 0ARISSAWAMPITTS AND HIKE THE 2AINBOW 2IM 4RAIL IN ONE DIRECTION )T STRAYS SO FAR INLAND BETWEEN EACH VIEWPOINT HOWEVER THAT ITS PROBABLY SIMPLER JUST TO HIKE OUT AND BACK FROM 0ARISSAWAMPITTS 7HILE THIS OFFERS A MORE VARIED FOREST HIKE THAN YOUD GET ON THE 3OUTH 2IM IN ALL HONESTY THE VIEWS ARENT IN THE SAME LEAGUE
$SB[Z+VH1PJOU /F THE MANY WESTERN +AIBAB 0LATEAU VIEWPOINTS THE ONE MOST READILY ACCES SIBLE IN A STANDARD VEHICLE IS USUALLY #RAZY *UG 0OINT 4HAT SAID IT LIES A FULL MILES FROM THE HIGHWAY ALONG GRAVEL AND DIRT ROADS A TRIP THAT IN GOOD CONDI TIONS TAKES JUST UNDER AN HOUR EACH WAY 4HE REWARD IS A COLOSSAL PANORAMA OF THE 'RANITE 'ORGE THOUGH NOT THE #OLORADO ITSELF BETWEEN THE 0OWELL 0LATEAU AND 'REAT 4HUMB -ESA WITH 4APEATS !MPHITHEATER SPREAD OUT BELOW !S BEFORE HEAD SOUTH ABOUT A MILE ON !: FROM $E-OTTE 0ARK AND TURN RIGHT ON &$2 THE LATTER RUNS ALL THE WAY TO &REDONIA SO YOU COULD APPROACH FROM THAT DIRECTION !FTER MILES TURN RIGHT ON &$2 DRIVE MILES THEN TURN LEFT ON &$2
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5NDERTAKING A HIKE BELOW THE RIM INTO THE VERY MAW OF THE CANYON MAY WELL BE BOTH THE MOST CHALLENGING AND MOST REWARDING THING YOU DO IN 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL 0ARK n OR FOR THAT MATTER IN YOUR ENTIRE LIFE )TS ESSENTIAL NOT TO UNDERESTIMATE HOW DIFlCULT HIKING IN THE CANYON CAN BE 4HE MERE FACT THAT THE EASIER PART THE DESCENT COMES BEFORE THE MUCH HARDER SLOG BACK TO THE RIM IS ENOUGH TO CONFUSE AND EXHAUST THE HARDIEST MOUNTAIN HIKERS WHILE THE SUMMER HEAT ALONG WITH THE HIGH ALTITUDE AND THIN AIR OF THE #OLORADO 0LATEAU CAN TURN EVEN THE SHORTEST HIKE INTO A GRUELING TREK 9OULL lND AN OVERVIEW OF THE ISSUES INVOLVED IN PLANNING A 'RAND #ANYON EXPEDITION AS WELL AS SUMMA RIES OF HIGHLY RECOMMENDED DAY HIKES IN THE COLOR SECTION AT THE CENTER OF THIS BOOK !BOVE ALL PARK RANGERS HAVE ONE SIMPLE MESSAGE FOR ALL WOULD BE HIKERS $ONT TRY TO HIKE TO THE RIVER AND BACK IN ONE DAY )TS HARD TO STRESS QUITE HOW IMPORTANT THAT ADVICE IS )T MIGHT NOT LOOK FAR ON THE MAP BUT COMPLETING A ROUND TRIP DAY HIKE TO THE CANYON mOOR WHICH INVOLVES A TOTAL WALK OF AT LEAST FOURTEEN MILES AND AN ELEVATION CHANGE OF ONE MILE IN EACH DIRECTION IS HARDER THAN RUNNING A MARATHON 4HATS THE PLAIN UNADORNED TRUTH EVEN THOUGH YOU
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!LL HIKING SHOULD BE ON DESIGNATED TRAILS 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL 0ARK OFFERS ABOUT lVE HUNDRED MILES OF SUCH ROUTES ON TERRAIN DIVIDED INTO FOUR OFlCIAL ZONES OF DIFlCULTY n NOT TO SAY THAT ANY OF IT IS EASY &IRST TIME HIKERS ARE ADVISED TO RESTRICT THEMSELVES TO THE CORRIDOR ZONE WHICH COMPRISES THE MILES OF TRAIL REGULARLY MAINTAINED BY PARK RANGERS AND IS THANKS TO TWO FOOTBRIDGES THE ONLY AREA IN WHICH ITS POSSIBLE FOR HIKERS TO CROSS THE #OLORADO 2IVER 4HE "RIGHT !NGEL 3OUTH +AIBAB AND .ORTH +AIBAB TRAILS HERE ARE REGULARLY PATROLLED AND OFFER FACILITIES SUCH AS EMERGENCY PHONES AND PIPED WATER !LMOST ALL OTHER TRAILS REVIEWED IN THIS CHAPTER LIE WITHIN THE THRESHOLD ZONE WHERE TRAILS ARE OFTEN ROUGH UNDERFOOT HARDER TO FOLLOW AND LIABLE TO LACK WATER TOILETS AND FORMAL CAMPGROUNDS ! FEW PASS WHOLLY OR PARTLY THROUGH THE PRIMITIVE ZONE WHERE TRAILS ARE NOT MAINTAINED FACILITIES ARE NONEXISTENT AND YOU MAY WELL NEED ROUTE lNDING SKILLS TO STAY ON COURSE /NLY BACKCOUNTRY EXPERTS SHOULD VENTURE INTO THE WILD ZONE WHICH HOLDS VIRTUALLY NO FORMAL TRAILS OR WATER SOURCES 4HE 0ARK 3ERVICE RECOMMENDS AGAINST ENTERING THE PRIMITIVE OR WILD ZONES IN SUMMER )TS BEST NOT TO BE TOO AMBITIOUS ON YOUR lRST CANYON HIKE %VEN IF YOURE SURE YOU WANT TO GO AS FAR AS THE RIVER AT SOME POINT DURING YOUR STAY YOU WONT REGRET HAVING A PRACTICE DAY HIKE BEFORE THE MAIN EVENT /N THE 3OUTH 2IM MOST lRST TIMERS OPT FOR THE "RIGHT !NGEL OR 3OUTH +AIBAB TRAILS THOUGH BOTH THE 'RANDVIEW AND (ERMIT ALSO OFFER GOOD SHORT TRIPS /N THE .ORTH 2IM THE .ORTH +AIBAB IS THE ONLY SENSIBLE OPTION $IE HARD WILDERNESS ENTHUSIASTS OFTEN GRUMBLE THAT THE SHEER MASS OF HIKERS IN SUMMER ESPECIALLY ON THE TRAILS TO AND FROM 0HANTOM 2ANCH DIMINISHES THEIR ENJOYMENT )F THAT STRIKES A CHORD WITH YOU THEN YOU MAY PREFER TO HIKE ONE OF THE LESSER KNOWN TRAILS THOUGH OF COURSE SUCH TRAILS CAN BE BRUTAL IN SUMMER &OR MOST CASUAL VISITORS HOWEVER THE TRAFlC ON THE CORRIDOR TRAILS IS NOT A PROBLEM n ITS NOT THAT BAD AND IT PROVIDES A GREATER SENSE OF COMPANION SHIP AND SOLIDARITY
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4HE SECRET TO SUCCESSFUL HIKING IS TO PLAN AHEAD &OLLOW RANGERS ADVICE AND ALLOW TWICE AS LONG TO CLIMB BACK OUT OF THE CANYON AS YOU TAKE TO HIKE DOWN 4HAT TAKES A BIT OF GETTING USED TO BUT BASICALLY IF YOU SET OFF AT AM AND WANT TO BE BACK ON THE RIM AT PM YOU SHOULD START YOUR ASCENT AT AM !SSUMING YOURE ADEQUATELY EQUIPPED WITH WATER AND OTHER SUPPLIES AS OUTLINED BELOW THE BEST WAY TO GUARANTEE YOUR SAFETY IS NEVER TO LEAVE THE TRAIL )F YOU IMAGINE YOUVE SPOTTED A SHORTCUT YOURE WRONG LEAVING THE TRAIL WILL MAKE YOU MUCH HARDER TO lND IN AN EMERGENCY 4HATS ESPECIALLY TRUE FOR SOLO HIKERS WHO FORM A LARGE PROPORTION OF CANYON CASUALTIES )DEALLY YOU SHOULDNT HIKE ALONE IF YOU MUST STICK TO THE BUSIER TRAILS AND PREFERABLY DAY HIKES /N A MORE GENERAL NOTE TRY TO WALK SLOWLY SO YOURE NEVER OUT OF BREATH )F YOURE HAVING TROUBLE MAINTAINING AN ORDINARY CONVERSATION YOURE WALKING TOO
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4HE SHEER QUANTITY OF WATER YOU HAVE TO CARRY n AND DRINK n WHILE HIKING IN THE 'RAND #ANYON ALMOST DElES BELIEF )N TYPICAL SUMMER TEMPERATURES EXCEED ING ª& YOUR BODY LOSES A PHENOMENAL FOUR PINTS OF mUID EVERY HOUR SPENT ON THE TRAIL 4O KEEP UP WITH THAT SORT OF DEMAND DRINK A MINIMUM OF ONE GALLON A DAY IN SUMMER AND PERHAPS HALF THAT IN COOLER CONDITIONS &IND OUT WHETHER WATER WILL BE AVAILABLE ON YOUR CHOSEN TRAIL n RANGERS KEEP ABREAST OF THE LATEST CONDITIONS n AND CARRY AT LEAST TWO PINTS WITH YOU AT ALL TIMES EVEN IF YOU EXPECT TO RElLL EN ROUTE /NLY THE "RIGHT !NGEL AND .ORTH +AIBAB TRAILS PROVIDE PIPED DRINKING WATER AND EVEN THAT CAN BE UNEXPECTEDLY CUT OFF IF THE PIPELINE BREAKS /N OTHER TRAILS WHERE WATER IS TO BE HAD YOULL HAVE TO TREAT IT lRST EITHER BY BOILING IT FOR AT LEAST lVE MINUTES OR CLEANSING IT WITH IODINE BASED PURIFYING TABLETS OR A 'IARDIA RATED lLTER AVAILABLE FROM ANY CAMPING OR SPORTING GOODS STORE 0RE HYDRATE BEFORE A BIG HIKE BY DRINKING LARGE AMOUNTS THE NIGHT BEFORE /NCE YOU SET OFF DRINK REGULARLY EVEN IF YOU DONT FEEL THIRSTY 4HERES A LIMIT TO HOW MUCH LIQUID YOUR BODY CAN ACTUALLY ABSORB AT ANY ONE TIME n AROUND ONE QUART PER HOUR n SO YOU NEED TO BE DRINKING STEADILY HYDRATION SYSTEMS SUCH AS THOSE MADE BY #AMEL"AK IN WHICH A MOUTHPIECE AND TUBE CONNECTS TO A WATER POUCH IN YOUR BACKPACK ARE HIGHLY RECOMMENDED %ARLY SYMPTOMS OF HEAT EXHAUSTION INCLUDE LOSS OF BOTH APPETITE AND THIRST SO ITS POSSIBLE TO BECOME SERIOUSLY DEHYDRATED WITHOUT FEELING THIRSTY /THER WARNING SIGNS INCLUDE NAUSEA DIZZINESS HEADACHE CRAMPS AND STRANGELY COOL SKIN 4HE BEST INDICATOR OF WHETHER YOURE DRINKING ENOUGH IS YOUR URINE ITS FREQUENCY AND QUANTITY SHOULD BE THE SAME AS NORMAL AND IT SHOULD REMAIN CLEAR RATHER THAN DISCOLORED /N THAT NOTE INCIDENTALLY IF THERES NO RESTROOM NEARBY THE OFlCIAL LINE IS THAT YOU SHOULD TRY TO URINATE ON BARE ROCK OR SAND AWAY FROM WATER SOURCES RATHER THAN ON PLANTS OR SOIL *UST TO CONFUSE THINGS THERES ALSO THE RISK OF HYPONATREMIA OR WATER INTOXICATION WHICH IN ITS lRST STAGES CLOSELY RESEMBLES HEAT EXHAUSTION AND HAPPENS IF YOU DRINK TOO MUCH WITHOUT EATING !S HIKERS CAN BURN UP TO A THOUSAND CALORIES PER HOUR n NOT JUST FROM WALKING BUT ALSO IN THE ENERGY IT TAKES TO KEEP COOL n EXPECT TO EAT AT LEAST TWICE AS MUCH FOOD AS NORMAL BOTH BEFORE AND DURING YOUR HIKE %AT EVERY TIME YOU DRINK 3ALTY SNACKS SUCH AS COOKIES CRACKERS AND TRAIL MIX ARE RECOMMENDED AS WELL AS JERKY OR SALAMI AND READY MADE DEHYDRATED MEALS %LECTROLYTE REPLACEMENT DRINKS WHICH YOU CAN BUY EITHER PREPARED OR IN POWDER FORM ARE A GREAT HELP MANY HIKERS CARRY TWO HYDRATION PACKS ONE lLLED WITH WATER AND ONE WITH 'ATORADE OR A SIMILAR PRODUCT !VOID SALT TABLETS AS TAKING SALT ON ITS OWN CAN DO MORE HARM THAN GOOD )N ADDITION WHENEVER YOU COME TO A WATER SOURCE WITHIN THE CANYON SOAK YOURSELF n YOUR HEAD YOUR HAIR YOUR CLOTHING EVERYTHING 4HAT WILL KEEP YOU MUCH COOLER AS YOU HIKE ON &INALLY ITS EASY TO FORGET THAT AT THE END OF A LONG HIKE THERE MAY BE NO FACILI TIES AT THE TRAILHEAD "E SURE TO LEAVE SOME FOOD AND WATER IN YOUR VEHICLE AS WELL
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!LTHOUGH THE CANYON IS HOME TO SEVERAL SPECIES OF SNAKE INCLUDING THREE KINDS OF RATTLESNAKE BITES ARE EXTREMELY RARE AND ALMOST INVARIABLY THE RESULT OF MISGUIDED ATTEMPTS AT HANDLING )F YOU DO GET BITTEN CURRENT MEDICAL THINKING REJECTS THE CONCEPT OF CUTTING YOURSELF OPEN AND ATTEMPTING TO SUCK OUT THE VENOM IN MOST CASES IN FACT NO VENOM IS INJECTED 9OUD DO BETTER TO STAY CALM APPLY A COLD COMPRESS TO THE WOUND CONSTRICT THE AREA WITH A TOURNIQUET DRINK LOTS OF WATER REST IN A SHADY PLACE AND SEND FOR HELP 3CORPION STINGS ESPECIALLY FROM BARK SCORPIONS ARE MORE COMMON 4HEIR POISON IS NASTY BUT CAUSES NAUSEA RATHER THAN SERIOUS ILLNESS OR DEATH 7HEN CAMPING BE SURE TO SHAKE OUT YOUR SHOES CLOTHING AND BEDDING BEFORE USE 4O AVOID PAINFUL BITES FROM RED ANTS TIDY UP ANY CRUMBS OR SPILLAGES AFTER YOU EAT AND DONT SIT OR SLEEP ON THE SAME SPOT AFTERWARD 4FDVSJUZQSFDBVUJPOT
4HOUGH IT ISSUES PERMITS TO ALL BACKCOUNTRY HIKERS THE 0ARK 3ERVICE DOESNT FORMALLY KEEP TRACK OF WHAT HAPPENS TO EACH GROUP 4HERE IS NO OFlCIAL CHECK IN OR CHECKOUT SO NO ONE WILL NECESSARILY NOTICE IF YOU FAIL TO RETURN )TS THEREFORE ESSENTIAL TO LEAVE DETAILS OF YOUR PLANNED ITINERARY WITH FAMILY FRIENDS OR COWORKERS AND ARRANGE TO CALL THEM WHEN YOUVE EMERGED SAFELY FROM THE CANYON )F YOU FAIL TO DO SO THEY CAN RAISE THE ALARM BY CALLING THE 0ARK 3ERVICE AT 3TICK TO YOUR ITINERARY n YOULL BE HELD LIABLE FOR THE COST OF ANY SEARCH AND RESCUE OPERATION WHICH CAN RUN INTO THE THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS ESPECIALLY IF HELICOPTER EVACUATION BECOMES NECESSARY .OTE THAT CELL PHONES ARE VERY UNLIKELY TO WORK AS MOST AREAS BOTH ALONG THE RIM AND DOWN IN THE CANYON ARE TOO REMOTE TO GET A SIGNAL 3ATELLITE PHONES ARE SOMEWHAT MORE RELIABLE BUT OFTEN FAIL IN THE GORGE
#BDLDPVOUSZDBNQJOH 4O RESTRICT NUMBERS BACKCOUNTRY CAMPING WITHIN 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL 0ARK n AS OPPOSED TO CAMPING IN THE DEVELOPED -ATHER #AMPGROUND AND $ESERT 6IEW SITES ON THE 3OUTH 2IM AND THE .ORTH 2IM #AMPGROUND NEAR "RIGHT !NGEL 0OINT n IS BY PERMIT ONLY $EMAND IS VERY HIGH AND MORE THAN HALF OF ALL APPLICATIONS ARE TURNED DOWN !NYONE OVERNIGHTING IN THE CANYON WITHOUT A PERMIT OTHER THAN GUESTS IN THE CABINS OR DORMS AT 0HANTOM 2ANCH IS SUBJECT TO A HEAVY lNE 0ERMITS COST A mAT FEE OF PLUS AN ADDITIONAL PER PERSON PER NIGHT FOR SITES BELOW THE RIM OR PER GROUP PER NIGHT FOR UNDEVELOPED CAMPSITES ON THE RIM !PPLICATIONS ARE ACCEPTED IN PERSON BY MAIL 0/ "OX 'RAND #ANYON !: OR BY FAX BUT NOT BY EMAIL OR PHONE &ULL DETAILS INCLUDING THE RELEVANT FORM ARE AVAILABLE ONLINE AT WWWNPS GOVGRCABACKCOUNTRY OR IN THE PARKS FREE "ACKCOUNTRY 4RIP 0LANNER AVAILABLE AT ALL VISITOR CENTERS !LL APPLICATIONS MUST SPECIFY AN EXACT ITINERARY WITH PRECISE DETAILS OF WHERE YOULL SPEND EACH NIGHT DEPENDING ON WHERE YOURE HIKING THIS WILL BE EITHER NAMED CAMPGROUNDS OR THE WIDE RANGING hUSE AREASv LISTED ON OFlCIAL PARK MAPS ALSO AVAILABLE ONLINE "ETWEEN -ARCH AND MID .OVEMBER THERES A LIMIT ON THE MOST POPULAR TRAILS OF TWO NIGHTS PER PARTY PER CAMPSITE WHETHER OR NOT THOSE NIGHTS ARE CONSECUTIVE !PPLICANTS CAN SUGGEST UP TO THREE ALTERNATIVE DATES AND ROUTES 9OULL ALSO BE ASKED FOR THE NUMBER IN YOUR GROUP n WHICH CANT EXCEED ELEVEN n AND EVEN YOUR VEHICLE LICENSE PLATE NUMBERS 4HE FEE IS PAYABLE IN ADVANCE BY CREDIT CARD OR CHECK AND IS NONREFUNDABLE &REQUENT (IKER -EMBERSHIP PER YEAR SPARES YOU PAYING THE FEE EACH TIME BUT CONFERS NO OTHER BENElTS
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4HE MOST POPULAR CAMPGROUNDS WITHIN THE CANYON ARE THE THREE ALONG THE RIM TO RIM CORRIDOR TRAILS n )NDIAN 'ARDEN ON THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL "RIGHT !NGEL #AMPGROUND NEAR THE RIVER AND #OTTONWOOD #AMPGROUND ON THE .ORTH +AIBAB 4RAIL 3ITES ELSEWHERE VARY BETWEEN SIMILAR PERMANENT CAMPGROUNDS DESIGNATED CAMPSITES n SPECIlED BY THE 0ARK 3ERVICE THOUGH THEY HOLD NO FACILITIES n AND WILDERNESS CAMPING 7HEREVER YOU CAMP MINIMIZE YOUR IMPACT ON THE CANYON #AMP WHERE SOMEONE ELSE HAS CAMPED BEFORE AND MAKE NO ADDITIONAL PHYSICAL CHANGES .O lRES ARE PERMITTED WITHIN THE CANYON EXCEPT IN EMERGENCIES THOUGH CAMPING STOVES ARE ALLOWED (UMAN WASTE SHOULD BE BURIED FROM FOUR TO SIX INCHES DEEP AT LEAST FT FROM THE NEAREST WATER SUPPLY WHILE ALL TRASH INCLUDING TOILET PAPER SHOULD BE PACKED OUT .EVER USE SOAP IN OR NEAR A WATER SOURCE &LASH mOODS WHICH CAN APPEAR FROM NOWHERE ARE MOST LIKELY IN *ULY AND !UGUST &ATALITIES ARE RARE BUT THEY HAVE OCCURRED OVER THE LAST DECADE ON BOTH THE "RIGHT !NGEL AND .ORTH +AIBAB TRAILS 3URVIVORS OFTEN REPORT HAVING HAD JUST A FEW MINUTES WARNING IN THE FORM OF A LOUD RUMBLE HEADING DOWNSTREAM ALONG THE NEAREST WATERCOURSE 4HE MOST IMPORTANT PRECAUTION YOU CAN TAKE IS ALWAYS TO CAMP WELL ABOVE THE BED OF EVEN THE DRIEST SEEMING WASH )F YOU HEAR ANY OMINOUS NOISE HEAD IMMEDIATELY FOR HIGH GROUND AND DONT ATTEMPT TO CROSS mOODED AREAS UNTIL THE WATER HAS RECEDED
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-AILED OR FAXED APPLICATIONS ARE ACCEPTED FOR DATES THROUGH THE END OF THE FOURTH COMPLETE MONTH AFTER THEYRE SUBMITTED 4HUS IN *ANUARY YOU CAN APPLY FOR NOTHING LATER THAN THE END OF -AY WHILE IF YOURE PLANNING A TRIP IN THE PEAK MONTH OF *ULY YOUD BETTER MAIL YOUR APPLICATION ON -ARCH "OTH MAIL AND FAX APPLICATIONS ARE RESPONDED TO BY MAIL 4O APPLY IN PERSON TURN UP AT EITHER THE "ACKCOUNTRY )NFORMATION #ENTER DAILY AMnNOON nPM© NEAR -ASWIK ,ODGE IN 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE ON THE 3OUTH 2IM OR AT THE .ORTH 2IM "ACKCOUNTRY /FlCE DAILY AMnNOON nPM A QUARTER MILE NORTH OF THE .ORTH 2IM #AMPGROUND 7HILE BOTH OFlCES ACCEPT ADVANCE APPLICATIONS AND TURNING UP IN PERSON DOES JUMP YOU AHEAD OF ALL UNPROCESSED APPLICANTS MOST HIKERS WHO VISIT THE OFlCES ARE HOPING FOR A LAST MINUTE CANCELLATION %VEN IN PEAK SEASON YOUR CHANCES OF BEING ABLE TO HIKE WITHIN A DAY OR TWO ARE PRETTY GOOD ESPECIALLY IF YOURE mEXIBLE AS TO WHICH TRAIL YOUD LIKE TO EXPLORE 9OUR NAME WILL BE ADDED TO A WAITING LIST AND EACH MORNING AT AM THAT DAYS CANCELLATIONS ARE REASSIGNED n THOUGH YOU MUST BE PRESENT TO GET ONE
8IBUUPUBLF %XACTLY WHAT EQUIPMENT YOULL NEED DEPENDS ON WHICH TRAIL YOURE TAKING FOR HOW LONG AND IN WHAT SEASON "EAR IN MIND THAT ITS USUALLY AROUND ª& WARMER BESIDE THE RIVER THAN IT IS UP AT THE RIM BE PREPARED FOR EXTREMES OF BOTH HOT AND COLD &OR A DAY HIKE ESSENTIALS INCLUDE DEPENDABLE HIKING BOOTS THAT YOUVE ALREADY BROKEN IN WORN FOR BLISTER PROTECTION EITHER WITH DESIGNATED HIKING SOCKS OR TWO PAIRS OF ORDINARY SOCKS THICK ON THE OUTSIDE AND THINNER WITHIN A LONG SLEEVED SHIRT AND PANTS FOR SUN PROTECTION TOGETHER WITH A WIDE BRIMMED HAT SUNBLOCK AND SUNGLASSES CONTAINERS FOR CARRYING UP TO A GALLON OF WATER PLUS IF NECESSARY A WATER PURIlCATION SYSTEM SUBSTANTIAL FOOD A POCKET KNIFE A mASHLIGHT AND A SIGNAL MIRROR ANDOR WHISTLE FOR EMERGENCIES /N TRAILS
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WITHOUT PIT TOILETS YOULL ALSO NEED TOILET PAPER AND :IPLOC BAGS IN WHICH TO STORE THAT AND OTHER WASTE !LL HIKERS SHOULD CARRY A lRST AID KIT AT ITS MOST BASIC INCLUDING BANDAGES AND MOLESKIN FOR BLISTERS PAINKILLERS AND ANTI INmAMMATORIES SUCH AS !DVIL AND KNEE AND ANKLE WRAPS ! GREAT DEAL OF HIKERS LORE SURROUNDS FEET IN PARTICULAR MANY PEOPLE SWEAR BY DUCT TAPE AS ADDITIONAL PRECAUTION AGAINST BLISTERS AND EVERYONE AGREES THAT YOU SHOULD TRIM YOUR TOENAILS AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE BEFORE A DOWNHILL HIKE ! HIKING STICK OR PAIR OF TREKKING POLES CAN BE INVALUABLE ON KNEE JARRING DOWNHILL STRETCHES 7HILE YOURE UNLIKELY TO LOSE YOUR WAY ON THE MAIN TRAILS A GOOD MAP WILL GREATLY IMPROVE YOUR SENSE OF WHERE YOU ARE %ARTHWALK 0RESSS "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL WHICH COVERS THE THREE CORRIDOR TRAILS AND 4RAILS )LLUSTRATEDS WIDER RANGING 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL 0ARK ARE BOTH RECOMMENDED 4HE MAJOR DECISION FOR BACKPACKERS IS WHETHER TO BRING A TENT 7HILE ITS CERTAINLY NECESSARY IN WINTER PROTECTION AGAINST COLD IS NOT A FACTOR IN SUMMER (OWEVER RAIN IS ALWAYS A POSSIBILITY IN *ULY AND !UGUST ESPECIALLY AND YOU MAY ALSO PREFER TO BE SEALED AWAY FROM THE DESERT WILDLIFE SO A RAIN mY OR WATERPROOF BIVVY SACK MAY SUIT YOU ! SLEEPING BAG IS ALWAYS RECOMMENDED n THOUGH IN SUMMER IT COULD SIMPLY BE A LIGHT COTTON SLEEPING SACK n AS ARE A FOAM PAD OR AIR MATTRESS AND A GROUND CLOTH BENEATH IT ALL !S FOR A COOKING STOVE HOT FOOD MAY BE MORE BOTHER THAN ITS WORTH IN SUMMER BUT ITS A LIFESAVER IN WINTER 3ANDALS ARE A WELCOME INDULGENCE FOR CAMP USE &RVJQNFOUSFOUBM
/UTlTTERS THE WORLD OVER SHOULD SELL ANY SPECIALIZED EQUIPMENT YOU NEED AND YOULL lND SEVERAL GOOD STORES IN NEARBY &LAGSTAFF SEE P 4HE 'ENERAL 3TORE BESIDE THE .ORTH 2IM #AMPGROUND SEE P STOCKS A FAIRLY LIMITED RANGE WHILE THE #ANYON 6ILLAGE -ARKETPLACE ON THE 3OUTH 2IM FORMERLY KNOWN AS "ABBITTS SEE P HAS A VERY GOOD SELECTION 4HE LATTER ALSO RENTS EQUIP MENT INCLUDING DAY PACKS AND BACKPACKS STOVES SLEEPING BAGS AND TENTS TYPI CAL RATES FOR A TENT WOULD BE FOR THE lRST DAY AND EACH SUBSEQUENT DAY 2ENTAL RESERVATIONS ARE ONLY ACCEPTED BETWEEN ONE AND lVE DAYS IN ADVANCE
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EN ROUTE AND THE LURE OF 0HANTOM 2ANCH DOWN BY THE RIVER n WHILE ALSO OFFER ING GOOD SHORT DAY HIKES FOR NOVICE CANYONEERS WHO LACK EITHER THE TIME OR THE ENERGY TO COMPLETE THE ENTIRE ROUTES !GAIN AS PREVIOUSLY EXPLAINED ITS CRUCIAL NOT TO TRY TO HIKE DOWN TO THE RIVER AND BACK UP AGAIN IN A SINGLE DAY "ECAUSE MOST HIKERS WANT TO START FROM AND lNISH AT THE 3OUTH 2IM THE MOST COMMON ITINERARY IS TO HIKE DOWN THE 3OUTH +AIBAB SPEND A NIGHT OR TWO BY THE RIVER THEN RETURN UP THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4HATS CERTAINLY BETTER THAN DOING IT THE OTHER WAY ROUND AS THE CLIMB UP THE 3OUTH +AIBAB IS A REAL KILLER 4HE REASON MORE PEOPLE DONT DO THE RIM TO RIM HIKE FROM THE 3OUTH 2IM TO THE .ORTH OR VICE VERSA IS LARGELY BECAUSE ITS LONGER n THE .ORTH +AIBAB ALONE TAKES AT LEAST TWO DAYS n AND ALSO BECAUSE YOU END UP MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED DRIVING MILES FROM WHERE YOU BEGAN (OWEVER THE 4RANSCANYON 3HUTTLE ONE WAY SEE P DOES OFFER DAILY VAN SERVICE BETWEEN THE RIMS &INALLY THE CORRIDOR TRAILS ARE ALSO THE ONLY ONES ON WHICH MULES ARE ALLOWED FOR DETAILS ON MULE TRIPS SEE P 3OUTH 2IM AND P .ORTH 2IM (IKERS ARE EXPECTED ALWAYS TO GIVE WAY TO MULE TRAINS BY STANDING STILL AND QUIETLY BESIDE THE TRAIL
#SJHIU"OHFM5SBJM "Y FAR THE BUSIEST INNER CANYON HIKING ROUTE THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL STARTS IN 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE BESIDE THE WOODEN SHACK THAT ONCE SERVED AS THE +OLB PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDIO SEE P !LTHOUGH THE SIDE CANYON IMMEDIATELY BELOW THE 4RAILHEAD(SBOE$BOZPO7JMMBHF VILLAGE MAKES ACCESS TO THE 4ONTO 0LAT GU
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EITHER OF THE TWO RESTHOUSES IN THE lRST $AYªHIKEªTOª)NDIANª'ARDENª THREE MILES BUT WITH AN EARLY START YOU GU
SHOULD BE ABLE TO MANAGE THE ROUND $IFlCULTY%JGmDVMU TRIP OF NINE MILES TO )NDIAN 'ARDEN OR $ISTANCENJMFTSPVOEUSJQ EVEN THE ELEVEN MILES TO 0LATEAU 0OINT %STIMATEDªTIMEoIS *UST DONT CONSIDER HIKING TO THE #OLO $AYªHIKEªTOª0LATEAUª0OINTª GU
RADO AND BACK IN A SINGLE DAY AND ONLY $IFlCULTY7FSZTUSFOVPVT TRY TO REACH THE RIVER IF YOUVE RESERVED $ISTANCENJMFTSPVOEUSJQ LODGINGS THERE FOR THE NIGHT %STIMATEDªTIMEoIS 4HE h"RIGHT !NGELv NAME lRST ASCRIBED 0HANTOMª2ANCHª GU
BY *OHN 7ESLEY 0OWELL TO THE TRIBUTARY $IFlCULTY4USFOVPVT STREAM THAT mOWS DOWN FROM THE .ORTH $ISTANCENJMFTPOFXBZ 2IM IS SO UBIQUITOUS IN THE 'RAND %STIMATEDªTIMEoISEFTDFOU #ANYON THAT ITS EASY TO GET CONFUSED oISBTDFOU 4HE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL DOESNT START FROM "RIGHT !NGEL 0OINT WHICH LIES ON THE .ORTH 2IM AND IT DOESNT QUITE REACH LET ALONE FOLLOW "RIGHT !NGEL #REEK 4ECHNICALLY IT ENDS WHERE IT MEETS THE #OLORADO MILES FROM THE RIM AND THE MILE HIKE FROM THERE TO 0HANTOM 2ANCH BESIDE THE CREEK IS ON THE SEPARATE 2IVER 4RAIL 4HE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL DOES HOWEVER LAUNCH ITSELF INTO THE CANYON A COUPLE OF HUNDRED YARDS WEST OF "RIGHT !NGEL ,ODGE AND MOST PERTINENT IT OWES ITS EXISTENCE TO "RIGHT !NGEL &AULT THE GEOLOGIC FAULT LINE THAT MAKES RIM TO RIVER ACCESS POSSIBLE AT THIS POINT
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4HERES NO GENTLE INTRODUC TION TO THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL WHICH HURTLES STRAIGHT INTO A LONG EXPOSED SET OF SWITCH BACKS DOWN THE DRY ROCKY HILL SIDE 4WO SHORT TUNNELS WITHIN THE lRST MILE MARK TRANSITIONS BETWEEN GEOLOGIC LAYERS THE lRST FROM +AIBAB LIMESTONE TO THE 4OROWEAP &ORMATION THE SECOND ON TO #OCONINO SANDSTONE ©5 2ESTING©AT©)NDIAN©'ARDEN ©ON©THE©"RIGHT©!NGEL©4RAIL 3OON AFTER DROPPING DOWN THAT STEEP DARK CLIFF YOU REACH -ILE AND A (ALF 2ESTHOUSE A BASIC WAY STATION THAT OFFERS WATER -AYn3EPT RESTROOMS AND EMERGENCY PHONES "Y NOW WILD LIFE IS MUCH MORE ABUNDANT INCLUDING PESKY SQUIRRELS AND RAVENS ! SIMILAR ONWARD HAUL PAST lRST (ERMIT SHALE AND THEN THE 3UPAI &ORMATION n WATCH FOR !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOAN PICTOGRAPHS ALL BUT OBSCURED BY GRAFlTI n BRINGS YOU TO THE EQUALLY SELF EXPLANATORY 4HREE -ILE 2ESTHOUSE WHICH HAS WATER AGAIN IN SUMMER ONLY AND PHONES BUT NOT RESTROOMS !S IS READILY APPARENT FROM ITS SWEEPING CANYON VIEWS 4HREE -ILE 2EST HOUSE MARKS THE lNAL BOUNDARY BETWEEN FOREST AND DESERT "ELOW IT LIES THE PRECIPITOUS 2EDWALL LIMESTONE THE MAJOR OBSTACLE TO INNER CANYON ACCESS THROUGHOUT THE PARK BREACHED HERE THANKS TO THE "RIGHT !NGEL &AULT %VEN SO IT TAKES THE FORTY TIGHT SWITCHBACKS OF *ACOBS ,ADDER n THE MOST MURDEROUS STRETCH OF THE RETURN JOURNEY n TO CARRY YOU DOWN TO THE GENTLY SLOPING BED OF 'ARDEN #REEK
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!S ONE OF THE hEASIESTv NATURAL ROUTES INTO THE CANYON THE TRAIL DOWN TO )NDIAN 'ARDEN WAS KNOWN TO !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOANS A THOUSAND YEARS AGO AND WAS STILL IN USE BY THE (AVASUPAI WHEN PROSPECTORS 0ETE "ERRY AND .ILES AND 2ALPH #AMERON IMPROVED IT IN 2ALPH TOOK IT OVER IN EXPLOITING SPURIOUS MINING CLAIMS TO CHARGE RIDERS A TOLL OF EACH )T WAS lNALLY PASSED OVER TO THE PARK IN
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4HOUGH YOULL ALMOST CERTAINLY HAVE SPOTTED IT FROM THE RIM THE VERDANT GREEN STRIP OF 'ARDEN #REEK STILL MAKES A WELCOME SURPRISE AT THE FOOT OF THOSE BAKING HOT SWITCHBACKS *UST PAST A PATCH OF PRICKLY PEARS AND OTHER YELLOW AND RED BLOSSOMED CACTI YOU HEAR THE ASTONISHING SOUND OF TRICKLING WATER 4HE STREAMBED IS LINED WITH DAZZLING GREEN COTTONWOOD TREES .ATIVE PEOPLES REALLY DID GROW CROPS AT )NDIAN 'ARDEN MILES FROM THE RIM !S WELL AS THE CREEK THERES ALSO A PERENNIAL SPRING WHERE SEEPAGE FROM THE MORE POROUS ROCK LAYERS ABOVE COLLECTS ATOP THE IMPERVIOUS "RIGHT !NGEL SHALE /RIGINALLY PLANTED IN PREHISTORIC TIMES THE hGARDENv WAS CONTINUOUSLY USED BY THE (AVASUPAI FROM AROUND UNTIL THE MODERN ERA EARLY TOURISTS ADMIRED
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THE ANCIENT STONE GRANARIES )N 4HEODORE 2OOSEVELT IS SAID TO HAVE CURTLY INSTRUCTED THE (AVASUPAI CHIEF TO hGET YOUR PEOPLE OUTv THEY WERE EVENTUALLY EVICTED IN BY WHICH TIME THEY WERE NO LONGER FARMERS BUT DEPENDENT ON THE TOURIST TRADE 4HESE DAYS THIS UNEXPECTED LITTLE OASIS HOLDS A YEAR ROUND WATER SUPPLY A RANGER STATION RESTROOMS SEPARATE CAMPING AND DAY USE AREAS AND A STAGING POST FOR MULES &OREVER BUSY WITH HIKERS BACKPACKERS AND MULE RIDERS ITS NOT EXACTLY PRISTINE WILDERNESS BUT ITS SUCH A WELL SHADED AND ATTRACTIVE STAGING POST FOR WEARY TRAIL USERS THAT NO ONES COMPLAINING 1MBUFBV1PJOU
]5IFDPSSJEPSUSBJMT
4HE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL CONTINUES ITS DESCENT TO THE RIVER FROM )NDIAN 'ARDEN AS DESCRIBED BELOW (OWEVER IF YOU TURN LEFT ACROSS 'ARDEN #REEK AT )NDIAN 'ARDEN AND HEAD WEST THREE QUARTERS OF A MILE ON THE 4ONTO 4RAIL SEE P YOULL REACH AN OBVIOUS SPUR TRAIL TO THE RIGHT 4HIS SPUR THREADS ITS WAY OUT MILE TO 0LATEAU 0OINT A SUPERB OVERLOOK ABOVE THE 'RANITE 'ORGE FROM WHICH ITS NOT POSSIBLE TO DESCEND ANY FARTHER &ORGED TO ALLOW DAY TRIPPING MULE RIDERS A GLIMPSE OF THE RIVER THE 0LATEAU 0OINT 4RAIL ALSO MAKES AN IDEAL ROUTE FOR HIKERS (OWEVER ALTHOUGH IT INVOLVES ALMOST NO ADDITIONAL ELEVATION CHANGE THE ROUND TRIP STILL ADDS THREE VERY EXPOSED MILES TO ANY DAY HIKE &OR THAT REASON ITS NOT RECOMMENDED BETWEEN *UNE AND !UGUST !T OTHER TIMES ALLOW AT LEAST EIGHT HOURS TO GET TO 0LATEAU 0OINT AND BACK FROM THE RIM "ARREN EVEN BY INNER CANYON STANDARDS THE 4ONTO 0LATFORM LANDSCAPE IS SPECTACULAR WITH AGAVE AND YUCCA PLANTS SHOOTING UP FROM THE SANDY SOIL AND THE MIGHTY RED BUTTES AND MESAS NOW FRAMED AGAINST THE BLUE SKY 3HORTLY AFTER YOU GET YOUR lRST AWESOME GLIMPSE OF THE GORGES SHEER BLACK WALLS THE TRAIL DEAD ENDS AT A PRECARIOUS PERCH ATOP ROCKY OUTCROPS "ELOW YOU TUMBLES A LONG STRETCH OF THE DARK GREEN #OLORADO THOUGH BOTH THE BRIDGES AND 0HANTOM 2ANCH LIE OUT OF SIGHT AROUND THE NEXT PROMONTORY TO THE EAST 7ITH BINOCULARS YOU CAN JUST MAKE OUT BUILDINGS ATOP THE 3OUTH 2IM %FWJMT$PSLTDSFXBOEUIF$PMPSBEP3JWFS
&LOWING DOWN FROM )NDIAN 'ARDEN 'ARDEN #REEK HAS CUT A NARROW CLEFT INTO THE 4APEATS SANDSTONE BELOW 7ITH THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL ALONGSIDE IT SWIFTLY ENTERS A SECLUDED LITTLE GORGE KNOWN AS THE 4APEATS .ARROWS 4HIS IS AMONG THE MOST DELIGHTFUL SEGMENTS OF ANY INNER CANYON TRAIL n IF YOU COULD SOMEHOW ARRIVE HERE WITHOUT HAVING HIKED DOWN YOUD NEVER IMAGINE YOU WERE DEEP IN THE 'RAND #ANYON 4HE TEMPTATION TO LINGER BESIDE THE BABBLING STREAM IS IRRESISTIBLE BUT DONT DRINK FROM IT n YOUVE JUST SEEN WHERE ITS BEEN BESIDE THE MULE PEN !T THE LOWER END OF THE NARROWS 'ARDEN #REEK VEERS INTO A TANGLE OF ROCKS AS IT RUSHES TO MEET 0IPE #REEK (UMANS HOWEVER HAVE TO TAKE THE SLOW WAY DOWN ALONG ONE LAST SEARING SET OF SWITCHBACKS THE $EVILS #ORKSCREW WHICH WERE HACKED INTO THE ROCK AS A SHORTCUT TO THE RIVER DURING THE S "EFORE THAT RIVER BOUND "RIGHT !NGEL HIKERS TOOK THE 4ONTO 4RAIL MILES EAST FROM )NDIAN 'ARDEN TO JOIN THE 3OUTH +AIBAB 4RAIL AT 4HE 4IPOFF "EYOND THE #OLUMBINE 3PRING WATERFALL AT THE BOTTOM THE GRADIENT EASES AND YOU CRISSCROSS 0IPE #REEK REPEATEDLY AS IT MEANDERS DOWN ITS OWN PLEASANT SIDE CANYON TO REACH THE #OLO RADO AT 0IPE #REEK "EACH MILES FROM )NDIAN 'ARDEN .EARBY IS THE SMALL 2IVER 2ESTHOUSE WITH A PHONE BUT NO WATER OR RESTROOMS )TS A BREATHTAKING MOMENT WHEN YOU lRST lND YOURSELF IN THE 'RANITE 'ORGE WITH THOUSAND FOOT WALLS OF GNARLED GRAY 6ISHNU SCHIST SOARING OVER
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4HE 3OUTH +AIBAB 4RAIL n THE MOST DIRECT ROUTE FROM THE 3OUTH 2IM TO 0HANTOM 2ANCH n IS THE ONLY MAJOR PARK TRAIL NEVER TO HAVE BEEN USED BY THE CANYONS ANCIENT INHABITANTS 2ANGERS HACKED IT OUT OF THE BARE ROCK IN 4RAILHEAD:BLJ1PJOU GU
WHEN IT LOOKED AS THOUGH THEYD NEVER 7ATER/POF WREST CONTROL OF THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL $AYªHIKEªTOª#EDARª-ESAª GU
AWAY FROM 2ALPH #AMERON SEE P $IFlCULTY4USFOVPVT 7HEREAS ALL !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOAN TRAILS $ISTANCENJMFTSPVOEUSJQ FOLLOW NATURAL DRAINAGE CHANNELS INTO %STIMATEDªTIMEoIS THE CANYON THE 3OUTH +AIBAB STAYS ATOP $AYªHIKEªTOª3KELETONª0OINTª NARROW EXPOSED #EDAR 2IDGE 3URE GU
THE VIEWS ARE FABULOUS BUT THE PITILESS $IFlCULTY7FSZTUSFOVPVT LACK OF SHADE AND WATER EN ROUTE MAKE $ISTANCENJMFTSPVOEUSJQ THIS A GRUELING TREK THE 0ARK 3ERVICE %STIMATEDªTIMEoIS RECOMMENDS THAT NO ONE SHOULD TRY TO 0HANTOMª2ANCHª GU
ASCEND IT IN SUMMER )TS USED PRINCIPALLY $IFlCULTY4USFOVPVT BY BACKPACKERS WHO DESCEND THIS WAY $ISTANCENJMFTPOFXBZ AND RETURN VIA THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL %STIMATEDªTIMEoISEFTDFOU MULE RIDERS WHO CLIMB BACK OUT AFTER BTDFOUOPUSFDPNNFOEFE
SPENDING THE NIGHT AT 0HANTOM 2ANCH AND DAY HIKERS WHO VENTURE A SHORT WAY DOWN TO ENJOY THOSE VIEWS /N ALL BUT THE VERY SHORTEST DAY HIKES PLAN TO CARRY A GALLON OF WATER PER PERSON 9OU CAN ONLY DRIVE TO THE TRAILHEAD AT 9AKI 0OINT FOUR MILES EAST OF 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE BETWEEN $ECEMBER AND &EBRUARY 9EAR ROUND HOWEVER YOU CAN GET THERE BY CAB P OR ON THE FREE PARK SHUTTLE BUSES n EITHER THE +AIBAB 4RAIL 2OUTE OR IDEALLY THE EARLY MORNING (IKERS %XPRESS BOTH OF WHICH ARE DETAILED ON P !LTHOUGH AVOIDING THE MIDDAY SUN IS ADVISABLE IN SUMMER ITS A SHAME TO START DOWN THE TRAIL MUCH BEFORE DAWN THE VIEWS AS THE SUN RISES ARE SUPERB 3TART ING FROM THE 9AKI 0OINT MULE CORRAL n NOT THE MAIN OVERLOOK n THE TRAIL DROPS DOWN THE WESTERN mANK OF THE PROMONTORY NEGOTIATING THE OFF WHITE +AIBAB LIMESTONE LAYER VIA A LONG BUT NOT TOO STEEP SWITCHBACK 4HIS lRST STRETCH IS EASY GOING UNDERFOOT ON A GRADED PATH LINED WITH NEAT BOULDERS 4HREE QUARTERS OF A
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EITHER SIDE OF THE RIVER /NLY HERE AT ITS VERY BOTTOM THE RIMS OBSCURED FROM SIGHT AND ONLY THE OCCASIONAL BUTTE OR TEMPLE REARING ITS HEAD ABOVE THE INNER WALLS CAN THE 'RAND #ANYON EVER FEEL AT ALL GLOOMY OR OPPRESSIVE THOUGH A MORE COMMON RESPONSE AMONG HIKERS IS EXHILARATION AT lNALLY BEING DOWN IN THE ANCIENT DEPTHS OF THE PLANET )T TAKES A GOOD TEN MINUTE WALK ALONG THE 2IVER 4RAIL UNDULATING OVER ROCKY DEBRIS SLOPES BEFORE YOU ROUND A CORNER AND SEE A BRIDGE IN THE DISTANCE AND ANOTHER MILE OR SO THROUGH SANDY DUNES BEFORE YOU REACH IT 4HE SLENDER SEE THROUGH "RIGHT !NGEL 3USPENSION "RIDGE ALSO KNOWN AS THE 3ILVER "RIDGE WAS BUILT IN THE S TO CARRY THE PIPELINE FROM 2OARING 3PRINGS HIGH ON THE .ORTH +AIBAB 4RAIL SEE P BY WHICH THE 3OUTH 2IM RECEIVES ALL ITS WATER -ULES QUITE SENSIBLY BALK AT THE WAY BOTH PIPELINE AND RIVER ARE CLEARLY VISIBLE BETWEEN THE SLATS AND HOW THE WHOLE BRIDGE BOUNCES AT EVERY STEP 4HUS MULE TRAINS CONTINUE EAST LESS THAN A MILE ALONG THE 2IVER 4RAIL TO THE 3OUTH +AIBAB 4RAIL (IKERS INVARIABLY CROSS HERE EAGER TO REACH 0HANTOM 2ANCH ON THE FAR SIDE
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MILE ALONG IT REACHES THE TIP OF THE PROMONTORY WHERE FOR THE lRST TIME MASSIVE VIEWS OPEN TO THE EAST AS WELL AS THE WEST 4HE 0ARK 3ERVICE HAS RECENTLY TAKEN TO CALLING THIS /OH !AH 0OINT ITS A DRAMATIC ENOUGH SPOT BUT THE NAME WAS BESTOWED PARTLY TO GIVE DAY HIKERS THE SENSE OF HAVING REACHED AN IMPORTANT DESTINATION 4URN BACK NOW AND YOUVE HAD A SATISFYING GLIMPSE OF THE CANYON FROM THE INSIDE /THERWISE THE SCALE OF THE ONWARD TASK IS READILY APPARENT 2EACHING THE LEVEL PLATEAU OF #EDAR -ESA BELOW INVOLVES A SHARP THREE QUARTER MILE ZIGZAG DESCENT OF THE RED #OCONINO SANDSTONE LAYER !LLOWING AN HOUR TO GET THERE FROM THE TRAILHEAD AND TWO HOURS TO CLIMB BACK UP AGAIN THAT MAKES A GOOD HALF DAY HIKE 4HE VIEWS FROM THIS SCRAGGY EXPOSED RUSSET MESA n WHICH HOLDS PIT TOILETS BUT NO OTHER FACILITIES n ARE TREMENDOUS !S WELL AS SEEING THIRTY MILES UP THE CANYON IN EITHER DIRECTION AND STRAIGHT UP "RIGHT !NGEL #ANYON TO THE .ORTH 2IM YOU CAN GAZE DOWN ON THE 4ONTO 4RAIL SNAKING ACROSS THE 4ONTO 0LATFORM AND THE $EVILS #ORKSCREW ON THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL TO THE WEST 4O CAP IT OFF ITS ALSO A POPULAR HANGOUT FOR CONDORS !LTHOUGH THE 0ARK 3ERVICE DISCOURAGES DAY HIKERS FROM CONTINUING BEYOND #EDAR -ESA THE NEXT SEGMENT OF THE TRAIL AS IT DROPS OFF THE MESAS EAST SIDE IS RELATIVELY MILD !FTER A FORTY MINUTE TRAVERSE ALONG THE mANK OF THE MESA WHICH SKIRTS FT /.EILL "UTTE IT LEVELS OUT ON ANOTHER SMALL PLATEAU DOTTED WITH TOWERING AGAVE *UST AFTER YOU PLUMMET OFF 3KELETON 0OINT THE TIP OF THIS LITTLE PLATEAU YOULL GET YOUR lRST GLIMPSE OF THE #OLORADO ! SUCCESSION OF MAJOR SWITCHBACKS INTER SPERSED WITH A BRIEF SADDLE OR TWO WHERE YOU CAN CATCH YOUR BREATH NOW CUTS DOWN THROUGH A NOTCH IN THE 2EDWALL !FTER PERHAPS THREE HOURS OF HIKING FROM THE TRAILHEAD A DISTANCE OF MILES YOU EMERGE ON THE 4ONTO 0LATFORM THE 4ONTO 4RAIL A SHORT DISTANCE AHEAD 7HILE HARDY BACKPACKERS CAN CONNECT WITH THE 'RANDVIEW 4RAIL SEE P BY HIKING MILES EAST ALONG THE 4ONTO 4RAIL THE OBVIOUS WAY TO GO IS WEST 7ERE YOU TO CONTINUE FOR FOUR MILES YOUD REACH )NDIAN 'ARDEN SEE P WHERE YOU COULD JOIN THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL AND FOLLOW IT BACK UP TO THE VILLAGE !T THIS POINT YOURE MORE LIKELY HEADING FOR THE RIVER )TS NOW LESS THAN TWO MILES AWAY BUT THE MOST HAIR RAISING SECTION OF THE 3OUTH +AIBAB 4RAIL LIES AHEAD 4HE LAUNCH PAD FOR 'RANITE 'ORGE HIKERS IS A SPOT KNOWN AS 4HE 4IPOFF A CLEFT IN THE ROCK JUST BEYOND A SET OF PIT TOILETS ITS EQUIPPED WITH AN EMER GENCY PHONE 4URN RIGHT OFF THE 4ONTO 4RAIL HERE DESCEND A COUPLE OF GRAY SWITCHBACKS AND YOURE SUDDENLY CONFRONTED BY A LONG ALARMINGLY VERTIGINOUS TRAVERSE WHERE THE TRAIL SEEMS BARELY SCRAPED INTO THE RED DUST OF THE (AKATAI SHALE AS IT CURVES ABOVE AN ABYSMAL DROP (ERE AND THERE A FEW MIGHTY BLOCKS OF BLACKENED 4APEATS SANDSTONE TEETER ABOVE YOUR HEAD 7ALKING THIS STRETCH IS NOT QUITE AS BAD AS IT LOOKS BUT THEN LITTLE HERE COULD BE !TTAINING THE HAVEN OF THE BROAD PROMONTORY AT THE FAR END YOURE REWARDED WITH A PROSPECT OF THE FULL MAJESTY OF THE 'RANITE 'ORGE WITH 0HANTOM 2ANCH SPREAD OUT INVITINGLY BELOW &URTHER STEEP SWITCHBACKS mY BY DURING THE lNAL DESCENT WHICH CULMINATES lRST WITH A RENDEZVOUS WITH THE 2IVER 4RAIL WHICH CONNECTS WITH THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL AS DESCRIBED ON P AND THEN WITH THE FORTY YARD TUNNEL THAT BRINGS YOU TO THE BROAD GREEN #OLORADO ITSELF (ANGING FROM EIGHT INCH THICK CABLES THE SLENDER FT +AIBAB 3USPENSION "RIDGE ALSO KNOWN AS THE "LACK "RIDGE WAS ERECTED IN TO REPLACE A MAKESHIFT CABLE CAR %ACH CABLE WEIGHS MORE THAN A TON AND WAS CARRIED DOWN THE +AIBAB 4RAIL
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ON THE SHOULDERS OF (AVASUPAI 4HE BRIDGE OF CHOICE FOR THE CANYONS SKITTISH MULES WHO PREFER ITS RUBBERIZED NON SEE THROUGH mOOR IT STANDS FEET ABOVE THE WATER AND MAKES A GREAT VANTAGE POINT FOR SPOTTING EXHILARATED RIVER RUNNERS AS THEY ROUND THE LAST CURVE BEFORE 0HANTOM 2ANCH
/PSUI,BJCBC5SBJM 3OME VERSION OF THE .ORTH +AIBAB 4RAIL WHICH FOLLOWS "RIGHT !NGEL #REEK FROM THE .ORTH 2IM TO THE #OLORADO HAS BEEN IN USE FOR MORE THAN A THOUSAND YEARS !T ONE TIME THE 0ARK 3ERVICE TRAIL STARTED SEVERAL MILES EAST OF "RIGHT !NGEL 0OINT AND TRACED THE CREEKS ENTIRE COURSE TO THE RIVER THE PRESENT ROUTE WHICH BEGINS WITH A DESCENT THROUGH 2OARING 3PRINGS #ANYON WAS ESTABLISHED IN THE LATE S TO IMPROVE ACCESS FROM THE .ORTH 2IM TOURISM HUB AND TO SHORTEN THE TRAILS OVERALL LENGTH /LD AND NEW
ROUTES COMBINE AT THE ACTUAL 2OARING 3PRINGS ALMOST lVE MILES DOWN THE FARTHEST YOU SHOULD VENTURE ON A DAY HIKE )N FACT AS THE lRST FEW MILES ARE THE STEEPEST ITS MORE REALISTIC TO SETTLE FOR A FOUR MILE ROUND TRIP AS FAR AS THE 3UPAI 4UNNEL "E AWARE THAT THE TRAIL $AYªHIKEªTOª3UPAIª4UNNEL GU
DOES NOT NECESSARILY OPEN WHEN THE $IFlCULTY4USFOVPVT .ORTH 2IM ITSELF OPENS FOR THE SEASON $ISTANCENJMFTSPVOEUSJQ IN MID -AY IT CAN TAKE RANGERS A FEW %STIMATEDªTIMEoIS WEEKS TO CLEAR AWAY WINTER ROCKSLIDES $AYªHIKEªTOª2OARINGª3PRINGS AND FALLEN TREES GU
4HE TRAIL STARTS FROM A WOODED PARK $IFlCULTY7FSZTUSFOVPVT ING LOT AT A CURVE IN !: LESS THAN $ISTANCENJMFTSPVOEUSJQ TWO MILES NORTH OF 'RAND #ANYON ,ODGE %STIMATEDªTIMEoIS SEE P 7HEN THE LOT lLLS EARLY ON $AYªªTOª#OTTONWOODª#AMP BUSY SUMMER DAYS MANY HIKERS SIMPLY GROUND GU
LEAVE THEIR VEHICLES ALONG THE ROADSIDE $IFlCULTY4USFOVPVT %VEN THAT ALTERNATIVE IS SOON EXHAUSTED $ISTANCENJMFTPOFXBZ HOWEVER IN WHICH CASE YOULL HAVE TO %STIMATEDªTIMEoISEFTDFOU PARK AT THE LODGE OR CAMPGROUND AND oISBTDFOU WALK FROM THERE ! LIMITED EARLY MORN $AYªª#OTTONWOODª#AMPGROUNDª ING HIKER SHUTTLE LEAVES 'RAND #ANYON TOª0HANTOMª2ANCHª GU
,ODGE AT AM AND AM DAILY SEE $IFlCULTY.PEFSBUF P .OTICES AT THE TRAILHEAD lLLED $ISTANCENJMFTPOFXBZ WITH SOMBER ADVICE ABOUT HEAT AND WATER %STIMATEDªTIMEoISFBDIXBZ RECOMMEND ALL HIKERS SET OFF BY AM 4HE TRAIL SETS OUT THROUGH THE PINES ON A DUSTY TRACK THAT ZIGZAGS STEADILY DOWN PAST THE +AIBAB LIMESTONE LAYER 6IEWS HERE CENTER ON 2OARING 3PRINGS #ANYON THE PRODUCT OF ITS OWN GEOLOGIC FAULT -ANY PEOPLE SETTLE FOR REACHING THE #OCONINO /VERLOOK A ROCK SLAB JUST OFF THE TRAIL MILE DOWN -ARKING THE BOTTOM OF THE 4OROWEAP &ORMA TION AND THE TOP OF THE #OCONINO SANDSTONE LAYER THIS PROMINENCE OVERLOOKS THE JUNCTION OF 2OARING 3PRINGS AND "RIGHT !NGEL CANYONS *UST OVER A MILE FARTHER ABOUT AN HOUR FROM THE TOP YOULL REACH A CLEARING BENEATH MAGNIlCENT #OCONINO CLIFFS COATED WITH DARK DESERT VARNISH %QUIPPED WITH A SUMMER ONLY WATER TAP AND PIT TOILETS THIS IS THE TURNAROUND POINT FOR MULE TRAINS ON HALF DAY TRIPS SEE P )MMEDIATELY AROUND THE CORNER LIES THE SHORT 3UPAI 4UNNEL BORED THROUGH THE SANDSTONE IN THE S 4HOUGH LESS THAN TWENTY YARDS LONG IT LEADS TO A SEEMINGLY DIFFERENT WORLD OF LONG EXPOSED SWITCHBACKS 4HESE TAKE ROUGHLY HALF AN HOUR TO DESCEND PAST THE RED 3UPAI SANDSTONE LAYER TO THE 2EDWALL "RIDGE !FTER A mASH mOOD DESTROYED MUCH OF THE TRAIL HERE IN THE BRIDGE WAS BUILT TO PROVIDE SAFE PASSAGE ACROSS 2OARING 3PRINGS #REEK /NCE ACROSS THE BRIDGE YOULL COME TO A GENTLE BUT CONSISTENTLY SPECTACULAR TRAVERSE OF THE 2EDWALL LIMESTONE FOLLOWING A MANMADE LEDGE CARVED HALFWAY UP A MIGHTY CLIFF WITH A SHEER DROP OFF TO YOUR LEFT 4HE SCENERY IN THIS AREA WITH ITS BIZARRE LIMESTONE OUTCROPS CALLS TO MIND SOME STRANGE SACRED #HINESE MOUNTAIN AND IS BEST ENJOYED FROM A HUGE FERN BEDECKED ALCOVE FARTHER ALONG )T TAKES ABOUT AN HOUR TO REACH 2OARING 3PRINGS THE TALLEST OF SEVERAL WATERFALLS THAT CASCADE DOWN THE OPPOSITE WALL OF 2OARING 3PRINGS #ANYON ! WORTHWHILE QUARTER MILE DETOUR TO THE LEFT OF THE TRAIL LEADS DOWN TO THE LOVELY STREAMSIDE 4RAILHEAD/PSUI,BJCBC5SBJMIFBE GU
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OASIS FED BY ALL THIS WATER WHERE YOULL lND SEVERAL PICNIC TABLES AND A MULE CORRAL .O DRINKING WATER IS AVAILABLE AND THE POOLS ARE ONLY DEEP ENOUGH TO COOL YOUR TOES BUT THIS MAKES A WELCOME REST STOP AND IS THE IDEAL TURNAROUND POINT ON A LONG DAY HIKE 3UPPLYING THE LODGES AND AMENITIES ON BOTH RIMS OF THE CANYON THE WATER FROM 2OARING 3PRINGS IS PUMPED STRAIGHT UP TO 'RAND #ANYON ,ODGE ON THE .ORTH 2IM AND PIPED DOWN TO THE RIVER AND UP TO THE 3OUTH 2IM 4HE PUMP HOUSE IS SUCH AN ESSENTIAL FACILITY THAT THE 0ARK 3ERVICE EMPLOYEE RESPONSIBLE FOR ITS UPKEEP LIVES DOWN IN THE CANYON A MINUTE OR TWO AWAY 3INCE THAT EMPLOYEE HAS BEEN PAINTER "RUCE !IKEN WHOSE RESPLENDENTLY GLOWING CANYON CANVASES SELL FOR AS MUCH AS WWWBRUCEAIKENCOM .OT FAR ON 2OARING 3PRINGS #REEK mOWS INTO THE MORE SUBSTANTIAL "RIGHT !NGEL #REEK 4HE TRAIL mANKS THE LATTERS WEST BANK THROUGH THE SLENDER 4APEATS .ARROWS THEN CROSSES TO THE EAST BANK JUST PAST ITS CONmUENCE WITH THE LESSER -ANZANITA #REEK #OTTONWOOD #AMPGROUND MILES PAST THAT BRIDGE AND MILES BEYOND THE SPRINGS IS A MAJOR OVERNIGHT DESTINATION FOR TRANS CANYON HIKERS ,AID OUT IN THE S BY THE #IVILIAN #ONSERVATION #ORPS ITS AN ATTRACTIVE SPOT OCCUPY ING A BROAD SWATH OF THE CANYON mOOR DIRECTLY BENEATH "RIGHT !NGEL 0OINT )T PROVIDES A SUMMER ONLY WATER FAUCET AND RESTROOMS BUT ONLY THE RANGER STATION BENElTS FROM THE SHADE OF THE EPONYMOUS &REMONT COTTONWOODS THE ACTUAL CAMPSITES STAND AMID RATHER SANDY SCRUB 4HE HIGHLIGHT OF THE lNAL SEVEN MILE STRETCH TO 0HANTOM 2ANCH IS LACY 2IBBON &ALLS MILES BELOW THE CAMPGROUND AND MILE WEST UP A SPUR TRAIL INTO A SIDE CANYON 4WO PATHS LEAD ACROSS THE CREEK TO THE FALLS BUT ONLY THE lRST n AT AN OBVIOUS JUNCTION ALONG THE MAIN TRAIL JUST SHY OF A SHORT HILL n IS RECOMMENDED 4HAT ONE CROSSES A FOOTBRIDGE WHILE THE OTHER REQUIRES A RISKY FORDING OF THE WATER 2IBBON &ALLS IS A BEAUTIFUL DOUBLE CASCADE THAT TUMBLES ABOUT A HUNDRED FEET DOWN SHINY MOSS STAINED CLIFFS WREATHED IN RICH VEGETA TION 3MALL WONDER THAT A CLAN OF THE :UNI PEOPLE WHO NOW LIVE TWO HUNDRED MILES SOUTHEAST IN .EW -EXICO PROUDLY TRACES ITS ORIGINS HERE "ELOW THE FALLS THE .ORTH +AIBAB 4RAIL lNALLY ENTERS THE 'RANITE 'ORGE THROUGH 4HE "OX A NARROW MUDDY FOUR MILE PASSAGE BETWEEN TWIN THOUSAND FOOT WALLS OF THE ANCIENT BLACK 6ISHNU SCHIST &OUR FOOTBRIDGES CROSS THE WATER BEFORE 4HE "OX OPENS A MILE OR SO SHORT OF 0HAN TOM 2ANCH ! LEVEL SANDY STROLL BESIDE THE DELIGHTFUL BABBLING CREEK LEADS TO THE SUDDEN REAP PEARANCE OF DRAMATIC COTTON WOOD TREES YOUR lRST INTIMATION OF THE RANCH AHEAD ©5 0RICKLY©PEAR©CACTUS©ON©THE©.ORTH©+AIBAB©4RAIL
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)NNER CANYON TRAILS ARE FEW AND FAR BETWEEN NORTH OF THE #OLORADO AND FEWER STILL OFFER THE CHANCE TO PARALLEL THE RIVER RATHER THAN SIMPLY HEAD TO OR FROM THE RIM 4HUS THE #LEAR #REEK 4RAIL WHICH BRANCHES EAST OFF THE .ORTH 4RAILHEAD0GG/PSUI,BJCBC5SBJM +AIBAB 4RAIL LESS THAN A HALF MILE NORTH NJMFOPSUIPG1IBOUPN3BODI GU
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THAT PREVIOUSLY WOULD HAVE BEEN SWEPT AWAY ARE ESTABLISHING THEMSELVES WHILE lSH ADAPTED TO MUDDY WATERS ARE BECOMING EXTINCT "E FOREWARNED THAT WHILE ITS ALWAYS A RELIEF TO REACH THE RIVER ITS OFTEN TOO HOT TO DO VERY MUCH OF ANYTHING DOWN HERE 4EMPERATURES AT RIVER LEVEL AVER AGE AROUND ª& HIGHER THAN ON THE 3OUTH 2IM AND PERHAPS ª& HIGHER THAN
ON THE .ORTH 2IM "ETWEEN MID -AY AND LATE 3EPTEMBER THE MERCURY OFTEN PUSHES PAST ª& #OOLING OFF IN THE SHALLOW WATERS OF "RIGHT !NGEL #REEK IS A POPULAR PASTIME BUT DONT VENTURE INTO THE #OLORADO ITSELF 4HANKS TO THE DAM IT STAYS AT AN ICY ª& YEAR ROUND IF THE CURRENTS DONT KILL YOU HYPOTHERMIA MAY 5IFSJWFSCBOL )*,*/(5)& * //& 3$ "/:0/
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4HE MOST INTERESTING SECTION OF THE RIVERBANK NEAR 0HANTOM 2ANCH LIES JUST ACROSS THE +AIBAB 3USPENSION "RIDGE AT THE FOOT OF THE 3OUTH +AIBAB 4RAIL )MMEDIATELY WEST OF THE BRIDGE ITS STILL POSSIBLE TO DISCERN THE OUTLINE OF A SMALL !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOAN SETTLEMENT lRST DESCRIBED BY *OHN 7ESLEY 0OWELL IN #ONSISTING OF lVE LINKED ROOMS AND A CEREMONIAL KIVA IT WAS HOME TO PERHAPS THREE OR FOUR FAMILIES FOR A FORTY YEAR PERIOD SOMETIME BETWEEN AND !$ *UST BEYOND IT LIES THE "OAT "EACH WHERE CANYON RAFTING EXPEDITIONS LET OFF AND PICK UP PASSENGERS FOLLOWING THE MILE RUN FROM ,EES &ERRY *UST DOWNRIVER THE "RIGHT !NGEL 3USPENSION "RIDGE LIES AT THE FOOT OF THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL "EYOND THE BRIDGE A SHORT SPUR LEADS PAST 0ARK 3ERVICE FACILITIES INCLUDING RANGER HOUSING A SMALL MULE CORRAL AND PUBLIC RESTROOMS #ROSSING "RIGHT !NGEL #REEK ON A SMALL FOOTBRIDGE YOULL JOIN THE TRAIL FROM THE +AIBAB BRIDGE AND FOLLOW THE CREEKS EAST BANK TOWARD THE CAMPGROUND AND RANCH #SJHIU"OHFM$BNQHSPVOE
! QUARTER MILE UP FROM THE CONmUENCE ANOTHER SMALL FOOTBRIDGE CROSSES TO THE WEST BANK OF "RIGHT !NGEL #REEK JUST NORTH OF "RIGHT !NGEL #AMPGROUND &LANKING THE CREEK AMID THE COTTONWOODS THE CAMP PROVIDES SITES EACH WITH ITS OWN PICNIC TABLE AS WELL AS CENTRAL RESTROOMS WITH RUNNING WATER #AMPING AT THIS BEAUTIFUL SPOT IS BY PERMIT ONLY SEE P $O NOT HIKE DOWN WITHOUT A RESERVATION
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! QUARTER MILE NORTH OF THE CAMPGROUND HALF A MILE BACK FROM THE RIVER 0HANTOM 2ANCH IS THE ONLY ACCOMMODATION OPTION OTHER THAN CAMPING WITHIN THE CANYON #LUSTERED AROUND A CENTRAL LODGE ITS VARIOUS CABINS CORRALS AND OUTBUILDINGS STAND AMID HUGE COTTONWOODS AND FRUIT ORCHARDS PLANTED HERE IN THE EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY TO SHADE A GROUP OF TENTS KNOWN AS 2USTS #AMP 2ENAMED 2OOSEVELTS #AMP AFTER A VISIT BY 4EDDY 2OOSEVELT IN THE SITE WAS IN TURN REPLACED BY 0HANTOM 2ANCH IN $ESIGNED BY -ARY *ANE #OLTER SEE BOX P AS SOMETHING OF A DUDE RANCH FOR THE &RED (ARVEY #OMPANY THE LODGE INCORPORATES UNCUT RIVER STONE AND NATURAL TIMBERS TO BLEND IN WITH THE SURROUNDINGS #OLTER ADDED MORE BUILDINGS OVER THE SUCCEED ING YEARS UNTIL THE COMPLEX REACHED ITS PRESENT SIZE &IRST PICK OF 0HANTOMS FULLY EQUIPPED PRIVATE CABINS GOES TO RIDERS ON &RED (ARVEY MULE TRIPS SEE P FOR FULL DETAILS INCLUDING PRICES 7HEN DEMAND EASES PARTICULARLY IN WINTER THEYRE OFTEN AVAILABLE TO HIKERS AS WELL AS RAFTERS STAYING HERE BEFORE OR AFTER A RIVER TRIP 9OU CAN ALSO GET A BED IN ONE OF FOUR TEN BUNK SINGLE SEX DORMITORIES n TWO FOR MEN AND TWO FOR WOMEN n WHICH INCLUDE BEDDING SHOWERS TOWELS AND SOAP 2ESERVATIONS AS FOR 3OUTH 2IM AND .ORTH 2IM LODGES ARE HANDLED BY 8ANTERRA 0ARKS 2ESORTS 0/ "OX 'RAND #ANYON !: OR WWWGRANDCANYONLODGESCOM /NCE AGAIN YOU MUST NOT HIKE DOWN WITHOUT A RESERVATION EVEN IF YOU DO HAVE ONE ITS ESSENTIAL TO RECONlRM BETWEEN ONE AND THREE DAYS IN ADVANCE OF YOUR STAY EITHER IN PERSON AT THE "RIGHT !NGEL ,ODGE TRANSPORTATION DESK OR BY CALLING !S A RULE 0HANTOM 2ANCH BOOKS UP WELL IN ADVANCE BUT IF YOURE SPENDING A FEW DAYS AT THE CANYON ITS WORTH INQUIRING ABOUT CANCELLATIONS FOR DORM BEDS AND CONCEIVABLY CABINS 4HESE ARE HANDED OUT lRST COME lRST SERVED AT "RIGHT !NGEL ,ODGE EARLY EACH MORNING 4HE NIGHT BEFORE CHECK WHAT TIME THE DESK WILL OPEN n IT CAN BE AS EARLY AS AM 0HANTOMS MAIN LODGE BUILDING SERVES AS A DINING ROOM BAR AND STORE -EALS ARE SERVED COMMUNALLY AT LONG TABLES AND AT SET TIMES 4HESE MUST BE RESERVED IN ADVANCE IDEALLY AT THE TIME YOU BOOK YOUR ACCOMMODATION THEYRE ALSO AVAILABLE TO CAMPERS !LL SUPPLIES GET HERE THE SAME WAY YOU DO SO FOOD IS EXPENSIVE 4HE PRICE FOR DINNER DEPENDS ON YOUR MAIN COURSE AND INCLUDES VEGETABLES SALAD DESSERT AND COFFEE FOR n 4HE PM SITTING OFFERS EITHER A OZ STEAK FOR JUST OVER OR A VEGETARIAN ALTERNATIVE WITH LENTIL LOAF FOR JUST OVER BEEF STEW IS SERVED AT PM AGAIN FOR JUST OVER "REAKFAST SERVED IN TWO SEPARATE SITTINGS WELL BEFORE DAWN INCLUDES EGGS PANCAKES AND BACON FOR ABOUT AND YOU CAN PICK UP A SACK LUNCH TO GO FOR ABOUT .OTE THAT THE LODGE CLOSES BETWEEN BREAKFAST SITTINGS SO IF YOUVE ORDERED A SACK LUNCH ARRANGE A PICKUP TIME IN ADVANCE /UTSIDE MEALTIMES THE COUNTER IN THE LODGE SELLS SIMPLE SNACKS LIKE TRAIL MIX AND COOKIES DRINKS INCLUDING BEER AND WINE lRST AID SUPPLIES SUCH AS BANDAGES AND SUNBLOCK AND SUCH ACCESSORIES AS CAMERA lLM BATTERIES mASHLIGHTS AND HATS DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM nPM "E SURE TO ASK ABOUT THE DAILY PROGRAM OF CANYON THEMED RANGER TALKS MOSTLY HELD ON THE GROUNDS 9OULL ALSO lND AN OUTDOOR PAYPHONE FOR CREDIT CARD AND CALLING CARD CALLS ONLY
&INALLY YOU CAN ARRANGE TO HAVE SOME UNFORTUNATE MULE TOTE A LARGE BAG IN OR OUT OF THE CANYON FOR YOU n THOUGH YOULL STILL HAVE TO CARRY YOUR OWN FOOD AND WATER 3O CALLED DUFFEL SERVICE COSTS EACH WAY
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7HILE THE TWO CORRIDOR ROUTES THE "RIGHT !NGEL AND THE 3OUTH +AIBAB ARE ALWAYS THE BUSIEST 3OUTH 2IM TRAILS PLENTY OF APPEALING ALTERNATIVES EXIST EVEN FOR lRST TIME HIKERS ,ISTED IN ORDER FROM EAST TO WEST THE FOLLOWING TRAILS ARE UNMAINTAINED WHICH MEANS THEY CAN BE HARD TO FOLLOW AND MAY BE BLOCKED ALTOGETHER BY ROCKFALLS 4HEYRE INARGUABLY MORE DEMANDING ESPECIALLY ON SWEL TERING SUMMER DAYS WHICH IS UNFORTUNATELY WHEN YOULL MOST LIKELY WANT TO ESCAPE THE CROWDS THAT THRONG THE BUSIER TRAILS $ONT BE TOO DETERRED HOWEVER 4HESE TRAILS DO SEE REGULAR TRAFlC PARTICULARLY FROM DAY HIKERS IN THEIR UPPER REACHES SO YOURE UNLIKELY TO RUN INTO TROUBLE 4HE TWO MOST OBVIOUS DAY HIKES ARE AS FAR AS 3ANTA -ARIA 3PRING ALONG THE (ERMIT 4RAIL AND DOWN TO (ORSESHOE -ESA ON THE 'RANDVIEW 4RAIL
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THIEF 4RAIL 4ODAY AS AN UNMAINTAINED $IFlCULTY4USFOVPVT PARK TRAIL ITS IN PRETTY POOR CONDITION $ISTANCENJMFTSPVOEUSJQ AND ENTAILS A STEEP HAUL 7ITH NO WATER %STIMATEDªTIMEoIS AND PRECIOUS LITTLE SHADE EN ROUTE ITS $AYªHIKEªTOªTHEª2EDWALLª GU
USED ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY BY HARDENED $IFlCULTY7FSZTUSFOVPVT CANYON BACKPACKERS $ISTANCENJMFTSPVOEUSJQ &ROM THE TRAILHEAD AT ,IPAN 0OINT %STIMATEDªTIMEoIS SEE P THE PATH SWIFTLY DESCENDS #OLORADOª2IVER GU
THE EASTERN mANK OF THE PROMONTORY $IFlCULTY7FSZTUSFOVPVT .UMEROUS ROCKFALLS MAKE IT EASY TO $ISTANCENJMFTPOFXBZ LOSE YOUR WAY HERE AND EVEN AT ITS %STIMATEDª TIME oIS EFTDFOU CLEAREST THE PATH IS VERY UNEVEN BUT oISBTDFOU THERE ARE NO DANGEROUS DROP OFFS IN THIS lRST STRETCH )TS ACTUALLY EASIER GOING UP THAN COMING DOWN OR AT LEAST IT WOULD BE WERE IT NOT FOR THE EXTREME FATIGUE /NCE THE TERRAIN STARTS TO LEVEL OUT AFTER AN HOUR OF STIFF SWITCHBACKS BE SURE TO KEEP TO THE WEST LEFT SIDE OF 4ANNER #REEK RATHER THAN FOLLOW LET ALONE CROSS THE STREAMBED ! ROUGH TRAVERSE SOON LEADS TO THE 3EVENTY &IVE -ILE 3ADDLE NAMED FOR NEARBY 3EVENTY &IVE -ILE #REEK WHICH MEETS THE #OLORADO JUST PAST RIVER MILE 7HILE THE TRAIL PROPER DOESNT LEAD ALONG THE RED SANDSTONE NECK THAT STRETCHES OUT TOWARD FT %SCALANTE "UTTE THE CRUMBLING ERODED SPUR THAT DOES IS A MUST FOR DAY HIKERS AND THE IDEAL TURNAROUND POINT ON A HALF DAY TREK 3TROLL OUT
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A FEW HUNDRED YARDS TO ENJOY SUPERB VIEWS WEST FROM THE TOWERING RUDDY WALLS THAT FRAME 3EVENTY &IVE -ILE #REEK TO THE 'RANITE 'ORGE OF THE #OLORADO 4O THE EAST YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO SEE THE RIM SIDE 7ATCHTOWER AT $ESERT 6IEW AND EVEN HEAR THE GLEEFUL CRIES OF TOUR GROUPS 4HE 4ANNER 4RAIL CONTINUES EAST !SIDE FROM AN INITIAL DROP THERES LITTLE ELEVA TION CHANGE FOR THE NEXT MILES AS IT SKIRTS THE BASES OF lRST %SCALANTE "UTTE AND THEN #ARDENAS "UTTE FT n THE LATTER NAMED FOR $ON 'ARCÓA ,ØPEZ DE #ÉRDENAS THE WOULD BE CONQUISTADOR CREDITED WITH lRST SETTING EYES ON THE CANYON SEE P 'RASSY DEPRESSIONS BESIDE BOTH BUTTES MAKE IDEAL CAMPSITES
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FOR BACKPACKERS ON THE LONG CLIMB OUT OF THE CANYON (ARDY DAY HIKERS PRESS ON AS FAR THE TOP OF THE 2EDWALL JUST BEYOND #ARDENAS "UTTE 7HILE THE SEVEN MILE ROUND TRIP MAKES A BRUTAL TREK IN THE HEAT OF SUMMER YOULL BE REWARDED WITH MAGNIlCENT VIEWS DOWN TO WHERE THE RIVER MAKES ITS CRUCIAL WESTWARD BEND AT 4ANNER 2APID &OR ONWARD HIKERS THE MOST DIFlCULT STRETCH LIES AHEAD AS THE TRAIL PLUMMETS DOWN A CRACK IN THE CRUMBLING 2EDWALL LIMESTONE 4HE RIVER IS FOUR MILES DOWN AND THE GRADIENT BARELY RELENTS !T THE BOTTOM SANDY DUNE FRINGED 4ANNER "EACH IS A POPULAR CAMPSITE FOR BOTH HIKERS AND RAFTERS )T ALSO MARKS THE START OF A TWENTY MILE ROUND TRIP HIKE TO THE NORTH ALONG THE "EAMER 4RAIL WHICH RUNS PARALLEL TO THE #OLORADO AND LEADS TO THE MOUTH OF THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO 2IVER
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SPINNING TALL TALES OF HIS ADVENTURES FOR 7ATER4FBTPOBMTUSFBNTBGUFS ANY TOURISTS WHO WOULD LISTEN )N NJMFT USFBUCFGPSFVTF
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ING A CABIN AT THE TRAILHEAD HE BECAME $IFlCULTY4USFOVPVT THE CANYONS lRST WHITE RESIDENT (E $ISTANCENJMFTSPVOEUSJQ WENT ON TO GUIDE PIONEER SIGHTSEERS %STIMATEDªTIMEoIS DOWN HIS TRAIL THOUGH BY THE TURN OF THE $AYªHIKEªTOªTHEª2EDWALLª GU
CENTURY IT HAD ERODED AND COLLAPSED SO $IFlCULTY7FSZTUSFOVPVT COMPLETELY THAT NOT A TRACE REMAINS $ISTANCENJMFTSPVOEUSJQ "Y ALL ACCOUNTS THE OLD TRAIL WAS EXCEP %STIMATEDªTIMEoIS TIONALLY STEEP AND DANGEROUS (ANCES #OLORADOª2IVER GU
REPLACEMENT ORIGINALLY KNOWN AS THE $IFlCULTY7FSZTUSFOVPVT 2ED #ANYON 4RAIL BUT NOW NAMED FOR $ISTANCENJMFTPOFXBZ ITS CREATOR REMAINS EXTREMELY DIFlCULT %STIMATEDªTIMEoISEFTDFOU 3OME OF ITS SWITCHBACKS HAVE CRUMBLED oISBTDFOU AWAY AND YOU OFTEN HAVE TO SCRAMBLE OVER MINOR ROCKFALLS )TS NOT A HIKE TO UNDERTAKE LIGHTLY AND IF YOURE USING IT AS PART OF A LONGER ITINERARY n SAY AN EXPEDITION ALONG THE 4ONTO 4RAIL n SAVE IT FOR YOUR ASCENT 0ARKING IS PROHIBITED AT THE UNMARKED .EW (ANCE TRAILHEAD WHICH SITS A QUARTER MILE OFF THE HIGHWAY ALONG A DISUSED ROAD ,EAVE YOUR VEHICLE EITHER AT -ORAN 0OINT AND WALK THE MILES SOUTHWEST FROM THERE OR AT THE "UGGELN 0ICNIC !REA ANOTHER MILE SOUTHWEST !S WITH THE 4ANNER 4RAIL THE ROUTE CONSISTS OF TWO DISTINCT SETS OF lERCE SWITCHBACKS n ONE DOWN TO THE SADDLE BELOW #ORONADO "UTTE THE OTHER TWO MILES FARTHER WHERE IT DROPS OFF THE 2EDWALL 4HIS TIME THOUGH THE STRETCH BETWEEN THE TWO IS EQUALLY DEMANDING SO EVEN A DAY HIKE TO THE BRINK OF THE 2EDWALL IS FAR FROM EASY 4HE lNAL COUPLE OF MILES TO THE RIVER BESIDE THE VERDANT 2ED #ANYON 7ASH ARE THE MOST ATTRACTIVE PART OF THE HIKE THOUGH EVEN THOSE INVOLVE SOME DIFlCULT SCRAMBLING 4HE ROILING WATERS OF (ANCE 2APID AWAIT AT TRAILS END
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4HE 'RANDVIEW 4RAIL LEADS OUT ONTO DOUBLE POINTED (ORSESHOE -ESA PROVIDING A RARE OPPORTUNITY TO EXPLORE ONE OF THE MANY WOODED MESAS THAT DOT THE INNER CANYON !LTHOUGH YOU COULD CONNECT WITH OTHER TRAILS TO 4RAILHEAD(SBOEWJFX1PJOU GU
REACH THE 4ONTO 0LATFORM AND EVEN 7ATER/POF TUALLY lND YOUR WAY DOWN TO THE $AYªHIKEªTOª(ORSESHOEª-ESAª #OLORADO THIS IS NOT A RIM TO RIVER GU
ROUTE )NVOLVING A SHORTER TREK AND $IFlCULTY4USFOVPVT LESS ELEVATION CHANGE THAN OTHER MAJOR $ISTANCENJMFTSPVOEUSJQ 3OUTH 2IM ROUTES THE 'RANDVIEW IS %STIMATEDªTIMEoIS ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR DAY HIKES IN THE PARK 4HAT SAID THE TRAIL ITSELF IS IN WORSE CONDITION THAN YOU MIGHT EXPECT IF YOUVE ONLY TACKLED THE CORRIDOR TRAILS AND THE CLIMB BACK OUT IS TOUGH BY ANY STANDARDS !LLOW ABOUT SIX HOURS FOR THE ROUND TRIP 0ETE "ERRY lRST IMPROVED THIS TRAIL IN TO EASE ACCESS TO HIS ,AST #HANCE COPPER MINE OUT ON (ORSESHOE -ESA (E MADE ENOUGH MONEY TO lNANCE CONSTRUCTION OF THE RIM SIDE 'RANDVIEW (OTEL WHICH LASTED A LITTLE LONGER THAN THE COPPER BUT WAS EVENTUALLY BANKRUPTED BY THE ARRIVAL OF THE RAILROAD TO THE WEST %VIDENCE OF "ERRYS WORK IS STILL VISIBLE (E BUILT MANY OF ITS SWITCHBACKS BY INSERTING METAL RODS DEEP INTO THE CANYON WALL THEN COVERING THEM WITH JUNIPER LOGS STONES AND DIRT 7HILE THE TRAIL IS NO LONGER MAINTAINED EVERYTHING REMAINS SURPRISINGLY STURDY THOUGH ITS UPPER SECTIONS HAD TO BE RECONSTRUCTED IN FOLLOWING LANDSLIDES !T TIMES A LITTLE HAIR RAISING THE TRAIL IS NEVERTHELESS EASIER THAN BOTH THE .EW (ANCE AND 4ANNER TRAILS !S DESCRIBED ON P THE BEST VIEWS LIE AT AND JUST BELOW THE TRAILHEAD BESIDE THE PARKING LOT AT 'RANDVIEW 0OINT &ARTHER DOWN NARROW COBBLED SWITCHBACKS CLING TO THE +AIBAB LIMESTONE CLIFFS WITH STEEP DROP OFFS TOWARD THE CANYON )T TAKES LESS THAN AN HOUR TO REACH THE REFUGE OF THE #OCONINO 3ADDLE A SPUR BETWEEN 'RAPEVINE #ANYON TO THE WEST AND (ANCE #ANYON TO THE EAST WHERE THE TREES OFFER WELCOME SHADE /NWARD THE SWITCHBACKS NARROW AND YOURE FACED WITH LONG EXPOSED TRAVERSES ALONG THE RED 3UPAI SANDSTONE LAYER WHERE THE PATH DWINDLES TO JUST A COUPLE OF FEET WIDE AND GRAVEL SKITTERS OVER THE EDGE AT EVERY STEP 4HREE MILES FROM THE RIM ANOTHER SADDLE LEADS ONTO (ORSESHOE -ESA WITH ONE LAST SHORT DROP BEFORE YOU REACH THE PIT TOILETS BUT NO WATER THAT MARK THE FRINGES OF THE FORMER MINING AREA 4HE RUDDY SOIL IS SCATTERED WITH MINERAL RICH mECKS AND OUTCROPS OF COPPER ORE AND THE RUINS OF MINERS CABINS ARE EVERY WHERE YOU LOOK -AKESHIFT TRAILS MEANDER ACROSS THE PLATEAU PASSING ABANDONED WORKINGS AND MYSTERIOUS CAVES INVESTIGATING ANY OF THESE IS OFlCIALLY FORBIDDEN AND WOULD BE AN EXTREMELY PERILOUS UNDERTAKING )F YOURE PLANNING TO BACKPACK FARTHER INTO THE CANYON THE BEST ROUTE DOWN FROM THE MESA n SIGNED TO #OTTONWOOD #REEK n HEADS OFF TO THE LEFT WEST NEAR THE RESTROOMS "ELOW ON THE 4ONTO 0LATFORM A SEVEN MILE LOOP AROUND THE FOOT OF (ORSESHOE -ESA REJOINS THE 'RANDVIEW 4RAIL A FEW HUNDRED YARDS HIGHER UP !LTERNATIVELY YOU COULD TAKE THE 4ONTO 4RAIL AND HEAD EITHER SEVEN MILES EAST TO THE .EW (ANCE 4RAIL DOWN BY THE #OLORADO OR TWENTY MILES WEST TO THE 3OUTH +AIBAB 4RAIL
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!PPEALING TO BOTH DAY HIKERS AND LONG DISTANCE BACKPACKERS THE (ERMIT 4RAIL IS ANOTHER UNMAINTAINED ROUTE THAT DATES FROM THE DAYS WHEN THE OBSTREPEROUS 2ALPH #AMERON CONTROLLED ACCESS TO MOST OF THE PRIME RIM EDGE SITES SEE 4RAILHEAD)FSNJUT3FTU GU
P &IRST DUBBED THE %L 4OVAR 4RAIL 7ATER4BOUB.BSJB4QSJOH USFBU THE TRAIL WAS USED FROM ONWARD BY CFGPSFVTF &RED (ARVEY #OMPANY MULE EXCURSIONS :FBSSPVOETUSFBNBUNJMFT USFBUCFGPSFVTF
)T WAS SOON RENAMED IN HONOR OF RECLU SIVE &RENCH #ANADIAN PROSPECTOR ,OUIS $AYªHIKEªTOª3ANTAª-ARIAª3PRINGª "OUCHER THE hHERMITv WHO MADE HIS GU
HOME AT $RIPPING 3PRING SEE OPPOSITE $IFlCULTY.PEFSBUF 4HOUGH ABANDONED IN THE TRAIL $ISTANCENJMFTSPVOEUSJQ %STIMATEDªTIMEoIS REMAINS LARGELY IN GOOD SHAPE AND MAKES A GOOD ALTERNATIVE TO THE OFTEN OVERCROWDED #OLORADOª2IVER GU
"RIGHT !NGEL AND 3OUTH +AIBAB TRAILS $IFlCULTY4USFOVPVT EVEN IF THE VIEWS ARE SELDOM AS SPECTACULAR $ISTANCENJMFTPOFXBZ 4HE MAJOR APPEAL IS WILDLIFE PARTICULARLY %STIMATEDªTIMEªoISEFTDFOU BIRDS BUTTERmIES AND IN SPRING AND FALL oISBTDFOU ABUNDANT WILDmOWERS 4HE BEST DAY HIKES LEAD TO 3ANTA -ARIA 3PRING ON THE MAIN TRAIL MILES ROUND TRIP AND $RIPPING 3PRING ON THE SIDE TRAILS DESCRIBED BELOW MILES ROUND TRIP 7ATER FROM BOTH IS DRINKABLE IF TREATED 4HE TRAIL BEGINS FROM (ERMITS 2EST AT THE WEST END OF (ERMIT 2OAD SEE P IN WINTER WHEN SHUTTLE BUSES ARENT RUNNING TRAIL USERS CAN DRIVE TO A PARKING LOT BEYOND THE SHUTTLE STOP )NITIALLY ROUGH AND ROCKY UNDERFOOT THE TRAIL SWITCHBACKS DOWN THE EASTERN mANK OF (ERMIT "ASIN FEELING FAR REMOVED FROM THE CENTRAL CANYON AS IT GRADUALLY DESCENDS A HIGH ROCK WALL ABOVE (ERMIT #REEK 5PHEAVALS IN THE COBBLED PATHWAY AND ROCKFALLS MAKE FOR SLOW PROGRESS AT lRST BUT THE TRAIL EVENTUALLY LEVELS OUT ON A SANDY mOOR !FTER MILES IT MEETS THE SELDOM USED 7ALDRON 4RAIL n MAPPED OUT IN AS THE ORIGINAL ROUTE INTO (ERMIT "ASIN n THEN PASSES THE SPUR TRAIL TO $RIPPING 3PRING A QUARTER MILE FARTHER ON +EEP TO THE TRAIL BEYOND THE $RIPPING 3PRING TURNOFF THE STREAMBED LEADS OVER A WATERFALL ! HALF MILE FARTHER AFTER DESCENDING A CRUMBLING RED LEDGE YOULL REACH 3ANTA -ARIA 3PRING 4HOUGH IT SELDOM AMOUNTS TO MUCH MORE THAN A STEADY DRIP FROM A STANDPIPE INTO AN UNATTRACTIVE MANMADE TROUGH THE SPRING IS ENOUGH TO SUPPORT A DELIGHTFUL OASIS OF mOWERING PLANTS 9OULL lND WELCOME SHADE IN THE GORGEOUS RESTHOUSE WITH A COMFORTABLE ROCKING BENCH AND AN OPEN FACADE ALL BUT SMOTHERED IN CREEPING VINES $AY HIKERS SHOULD TURN BACK HERE WHILE GENTLE OVER THE NEXT MILE THE ONWARD TRAIL THEN TACKLES FURTHER STEEP SWITCHBACKS AND A TRICKY DOWNWARD SCRAMBLE AMID FALLEN ROCKS )T EVENTUALLY HURTLES DOWN THE 2EDWALL BELOW 0IMA 0OINT BY MEANS OF THE CRAMPED #ATHEDRAL 3TAIRS SWITCHBACKS AND MEETS THE 4ONTO 4RAIL MILES FROM THE TRAILHEAD "ETWEEN AND MULE RIDERS WOULD SPEND THE NIGHT DEEP IN THE INNER CANYON AT THE PERMANENT (ERMIT #AMP A MILE WEST OF THE 4ONTO 4RAIL JUNC TION WHICH WAS PROVISIONED BY CABLE CAR FROM 0IMA 0OINT /NLY THE OUTLINE OF ITS STURDY STONE WALLS REMAIN HOWEVER SO BACKPACKERS NOW CONGREGATE AT (ERMIT #REEK #AMPGROUND A FEW HUNDRED YARDS BEYOND 4HOUGH A mASH mOOD DESTROYED ITS MUCH LOVED NATURAL SWIMMING POOL IN THE SITE IS STILL SPECTACULAR OFFERING DRAMATIC VIEWS OF CLIFFS THAT SOAR TO THE RIM
4HE MOST DIRECT ROUTE TO THE #OLORADO FROM THE (ERMIT 4RAIL FOLLOWS (ERMIT #REEK WHICH YOU CAN ACCESS EITHER JUST BEFORE (ERMIT #AMP OR FROM THE CAMPGROUND %ITHER WAY YOULL REACH THE RIVER IN A LITTLE OVER A MILE AT A ROCKY BEACH JUST SHORT OF (ERMIT 2APID WHOSE WAVELIKE SURGE CAN RISE MORE THAN TWENTY FEET
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4HE DELIGHTFUL AND NONE TOO STRENUOUS EXPEDITION TO $RIPPING 3PRING RANKS AMONG THE BEST MID LENGTH DAY HIKES IN THE CANYON 4HE SPRING ITSELF WHICH WAS HOME TO THE hHERMITv ,OUIS "OUCHER BETWEEN AND SITS ONLY A FEW HUNDRED YARDS BENEATH THE RIM BUT THE NEAREST ROAD ACCESSIBLE 4RAILHEAD)FSNJUT3FTU GU
TRAILHEAD IS AT (ERMITS 2EST AND ITS 7ATER%SJQQJOH4QSJOH USFBU NECESSARY TO APPROACH THE SPRING FROM CFGPSFVTF BELOW SO IT REMAINS A ROUND TRIP OF $AYªHIKEªTOª$RIPPINGª3PRINGª MILES GU
4URN LEFT AT THE SPUR JUNCTION $IFlCULTY.PEFSBUF XJUIIJHI DESCRIBED OPPOSITE ALMOST TWO MILES ESPQPGGT DOWN THE (ERMIT 4RAIL AND FOLLOW $ISTANCENJMFTSPVOEUSJQ THE NARROW PATH AS IT NEGOTIATES A HIGH %STIMATEDªTIMEoIS SWEEPING CURVE BARELY SCRAPED INTO A STEEP CLIFF OF RED (ERMIT SHALE n ANYONE WITH A FEAR OF HEIGHTS WOULD DO BETTER TO TURN BACK AND INSTEAD VISIT 3ANTA -ARIA 3PRING SEE OPPOSITE ! MILE ALONG THE SPUR PAST TWO SUCCESSIVE WOODED AMPHITHEATERS YOULL TURN LEFT ON THE "OUCHER 4RAIL WHICH ASCENDS TOWARD THE RIM .OT FAR UP $RIPPING 3PRING CASCADES FROM THE CEILING OF A LARGE ALCOVE IN THE #OCONINO SANDSTONE WALL AMID LUSH FERNS AND TINY BLOSSOMS "OUCHER USED THIS PERENNIAL WATER SUPPLY TO IRRIGATE GARDENS AND ORCHARDS ALONG THE CREEK
#PVDIFS5SBJM 4HE "OUCHER 4RAIL WHICH RUNS A MILE OR SO WEST OF AND ROUGHLY PARAL LELS THE (ERMIT 4RAIL WAS ONCE ,OUIS "OUCHERS 3ILVER "ELL 4RAIL THE MOST DIRECT ROUTE TO HIS $RIPPING 3PRING HOME 3TRICTLY SPEAKING IT BEGINS AT 4RAILHEAD)FSNJUT3FTU GU
A REMOTE TRAILHEAD ABOVE THE SPRING 7ATER%SJQQJOH4QSJOH USFBU 4ODAY HOWEVER ACCESS IS SO MUCH CFGPSFVTF EASIER FROM (ERMITS 2EST THAT THE #PVDIFS$SFFLBUNJMFT USFBU TRAIL IS USED ALMOST INVARIABLY AS PART CFGPSFVTF OF LONGER MULTI TRAIL ITINERARIES MOST #OLORADOª2IVERª GU
OFTEN ENTAILING A DESCENT TO THE RIVER $IFlCULTY7FSZTUSFOVPVT VIA THE "OUCHER 4RAIL FOLLOWED BY AN $ISTANCENJMFTPOFXBZ ASCENT ALONG THE (ERMIT %STIMATEDªTIMEoISEFTDFOU 0ARTICULARLY IN ITS EARLY STAGES THE oISBTDFOU "OUCHER 4RAIL IS NOT A HIKE FOR CANYON NOVICES 3OON AFTER YOU TURN RIGHT ONTO THE TRAIL THREE MILES INTO THE $RIPPING 3PRING ITINERARY DESCRIBED ABOVE YOURE OBLIGED TO TEETER ALONG THE BRINK OF A SHEER DROP )N ICY WINTER CONDI TIONS THIS TRAVERSE ALONG THE WEST WALL OF (ERMIT "ASIN IS TRULY TERRIFYING #ONDITIONS IMPROVE WHEN YOU ROUND THE HEADLAND BENEATH 9UMA 0OINT AT THE FAR END BUT YOU STILL HAVE TO NEGOTIATE LONG DIFlCULT SCRAMBLING DESCENTS BEFORE YOU REACH THE 4ONTO 4RAIL
(ALF A MILE FARTHER TURN RIGHT AND PICK YOUR WAY ALONG THE BOULDER STREWN "OUCHER #REEK STREAMBED TO REACH THE RIVER NEAR "OUCHER 2APID !LTERNA TIVELY A MILE EASTWARD HIKE ON THE 4ONTO 4RAIL LEADS TO (ERMIT #REEK #AMPGROUND ON THE (ERMIT 4RAIL SEE P
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-ORE THAN A CENTURY AGO THE "ASS 4RAIL WAS THE PREEMINENT TRANS CANYON HIKING ROUTE .OW FAR WEST OF THE VILLAGE TOURIST HUB AND ALL BUT REVERTED TO WILDERNESS IT NO LONGER EVEN CROSSES THE CANYON )TS EARLY PROMOTER FORMER 4RAILHEAD#BTT$BNQ GU
COWBOY 7ILLIAM "ASS SET UP THE LONG 7ATER/POF DEFUNCT "ASS #AMP TENT VILLAGE NEAR #OLORADOª2IVERª GU
(AVASUPAI 0OINT IN AND SOON $IFlCULTY4USFOVPVT INSTIGATED REGULAR STAGECOACH SERVICE $ISTANCENJMFTPOFXBZ FROM 7ILLIAMS (E WOULD LEAD INTREPID %STIMATEDªTIMEoISEFTDFOU VISITORS DOWN THE ANCIENT )NDIAN TRAIL HE oISBTDFOU HAD IMPROVED TO REACH HIS COPPER AND ASBESTOS MINES AND FERRY THEM ACROSS THE RIVER EITHER BY BOAT WHEN THE WATER WAS LOW OR VIA CABLE CAR "ASS WENT OUT OF BUSINESS AFTER THE RAILROAD REACHED THE 3OUTH 2IM BUT HIS TRAIL REMAINS IN REASONABLE CONDITION FOR EXPERIENCED INNER CANYON HIKERS WHO HAVE THE ROUTE lNDING ABILITIES TO NEGOTIATE THE OCCASIONAL OBSCURED SEGMENT -ANY STILL DO COMPLETE THE RIM TO RIM TRIP BY HITCHING A RIDE WITH THE RIVER RUNNERS THEY CHANCE UPON DOWN ON THE #OLORADO (OWEVER THAT ROUTE IS GENERALLY REGARDED AS TWO SEPARATE HIKES n THE 3OUTH "ASS 4RAIL DESCRIBED HERE AND THE .ORTH "ASS 4RAIL AS OUTLINED ON P 4HE MAIN OBSTACLE TO HIKING THE 3OUTH "ASS IS NOT THE ABSENCE OF WATER ANYWHERE ABOVE THE RIVER BUT THE SHEER REMOTENESS OF THE TRAILHEAD 7HEN YOU ASK ABOUT CURRENT TRAIL CONDITIONS AT THE PARK VISITOR CENTER HAVE A RANGER DESCRIBE THE ACCESS ROUTE IN DETAIL )TS A THIRTY MILE DRIVE OFF 53 !: THE lRST MILES OF WHICH ARE ON &OREST 3ERVICE ROAD WHICH HEADS WEST FROM 4USAYAN JUST SOUTH OF THE ABANDONED -OQUI ,ODGE 4HE lNAL FOUR MILES NORTH FROM 0ASTURE 7ASH ARE SO ROUGH THAT A HIGH CLEARANCE 7$ VEHICLE IS ESSENTIAL (AVASUPAI 0OINT TWO MILES EAST OF THE TRAILHEAD IS REACHABLE VIA AN EQUALLY PROBLEMATIC DIRT ROAD THAT BRANCHES OFF TO THE RIGHT SHORTLY BEFORE "ASS #AMP )T MARKS A NATURAL BOUNDARY BETWEEN THE EASTERN 'RAND #ANYON CHARACTERIZED BY MASSIVE AMPHITHEATERS ISOLATED BUTTES AND GENERALLY TANGLED TOPOGRAPHY AND THE WESTERN CANYON WHICH ENCOMPASSES A MUCH SIMPLER BROAD VALLEY KNOWN AS THE %SPLANADE WITH THE DEEP 'RANITE 'ORGE STILL AT ITS CORE 4HE RIDGE IMMEDI ATELY EAST OF THE TRAILHEAD IS KNOWN AS THE 'RAND 3CENIC $IVIDE 4HE TRAIL ZIGZAGS DOWN THROUGH THE WOODS ALMOST THREE MILES TO THE EDGE OF THE %SPLANADE ALONGSIDE TOWERING -OUNT (UETHAWALI 4HIS SPOT OFFERS THE lRST AND BEST VIEWS OF THE VAST CANYON SWEEP BRINGING HOME HOW ABRUPTLY THE MESAS AND BUTTES DISAPPEAR AS THE RIVER mOWS WEST "ELOW THE TRAIL PLUNGES DEEP INTO "ASS #ANYON EMERGING THREE MILES DOWN ON THE 4ONTO 4RAIL 4HE BED OF THE OFTEN DRY WASH DESCENDS TWO MILES TO A LOVELY LITTLE RIVERSIDE BEACH OFTEN USED BY PASSING RAFTERS FOR OVERNIGHT STAYS
5POUP5SBJM 4HE 4ONTO 4RAIL IS AN EXCEPTION TO THE OTHER 3OUTH 2IM TRAILS DESCRIBED HERE IN THAT IT HAS NO CONTACT WITH THE CANYON RIM .EITHER OVER ITS VAST LENGTH DOES
7HILE THE .ORTH +AIBAB 4RAIL IS BY FAR THE MOST POPULAR INNER CANYON TRAIL TO START FROM THE .ORTH 2IM TWO OTHERS LIE WITHIN REACH OF SEASONED HIKERS EAGER TO EXPERIENCE GREATER SOLITUDE n AND A TOUGHER PHYSICAL CHALLENGE "OTH THE .ANKOWEAP 4RAIL AND THE .ORTH "ASS 4RAIL DEMAND CONSIDERABLE CONlDENCE AND SELF SUFlCIENCY AND ARE BEST LEFT TO BACKPACKERS PLANNING MULTI DAY ITINERAR IES "E SURE TO ASK ABOUT CURRENT CONDITIONS WHEN YOU PICK UP YOUR PERMIT
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IT APPROACH THE RIVER )NSTEAD IT RUNS PARALLEL TO BOTH RIM AND RIVER MEANDERING ALONG THE 4ONTO 0LATFORM AT A TYPICAL ELEVATION OF AROUND FT 4HAT MEANS IT REMAINS MOSTLY ON THE PARCHED CACTUS STREWN "RIGHT !NGEL SHALE LAYER WHICH SPREADS OUT BELOW THE 2EDWALL AND -AUV LIMESTONE STRATA AND ABOVE THE 4APEATS SANDSTONE LAYER AND THE 'RANITE 'ORGE 4HIS IS NO EASY ROUTE HOWEVER 7HERE SUCCESSIVE STREAMS AND EARTHQUAKE FAULTS SLASH DOWN TOWARD THE #OLORADO THE 4ONTO 4RAIL IS FORCED TO TRAVERSE LESSER GORGES AND DETOUR AROUND AMPHITHEATERS 7ATER IS SCARCE AND FACILITIES NONEXISTENT !S THE TRAIL STRETCHES A PHENOMENAL MILES ALMOST NO ONE WALKS ITS FULL LENGTH -OST HIKERS SIMPLY CROSS IT AT SOME POINT EN ROUTE TO OR FROM THE RIVER OR AT BEST TAKE A SMALL CONNECTING STRETCH BETWEEN TWO MAJOR TRAILS 4HERES NO TRAILHEAD AS SUCH BUT TECHNICALLY IT BEGINS AT THE FOOT OF THE .EW (ANCE 4RAIL AS THE 4ONTO %AST 4RAIL LEADING WEST TO THE 'RANDVIEW 4RAIL IN SEVEN MILES AND THE 3OUTH +AIBAB TWENTY MILES AFTER THAT 4HE CENTRAL SECTION KNOWN SIMPLY AS THE 4ONTO 4RAIL RUNS FROM 4HE 4IPOFF ON THE 3OUTH +AIBAB FOUR MILES TO )NDIAN 'ARDEN ON THE "RIGHT !NGEL THIRTEEN MORE MILES TO THE (ERMIT AND SIX MILES BEYOND THAT TO THE "OUCHER 4HE 4ONTO 7EST 4RAIL THEN TAKES UP THE BATON RUNNING A FULL THIRTY MILES TO THE 3OUTH "ASS AND ANOTHER TWELVE MILES TO 'ARNET #ANYON WHERE IT MEETS THE 2OYAL !RCH 2OUTE FOR THE LENGTHY ASCENT
/BOLPXFBQ5SBJM &AR NORTH OF ALL OTHER 'RAND #ANYON TRAILS THE DRAMATIC .ANKOWEAP 4RAIL IS UNIQUE IN NOT ONLY PROVIDING ACCESS TO THE CANYONS SELDOM VISITED UPPER REACHES BUT ALSO OFFERING TREMENDOUS PANORAMAS ACROSS THE -ARBLE 0LATFORM 4RAILHEAD4BEEMF.PVOUBJO GU
AND UPSTREAM TOWARD ,EES &ERRY 7ITH 7ATER/BOLPXFBQ$SFFLBU ITS HAIRS BREADTH LEDGES AND SICKEN NJMFT USFBUCFGPSFVTF
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RECOMMENDED FOR ANYONE WITH EVEN $IFlCULTY7FSZTUSFOVPVT XJUIIJHI THE SLIGHTEST FEAR OF HEIGHTS #HARLES ESPQPGGT $OOLITTLE 7ALCOTT WHO WITH *OHN $ISTANCENJMFTPOFXBZ 7ESLEY 0OWELL IMPROVED THE TRAIL %STIMATEDªTIMEoISEFTDFOU DURING THEIR GEOLOGIC EXPEDITION OF oISBTDFOU CALLED IT hUTTERLY FRIGHTFUL v AND ITS EARLY STAGES REMAIN EVERY BIT AS TERRIFYING /NLY TRUE CANYON VETERANS SHOULD EVEN CONSIDER ATTEMPTING IT 4HOUGH THE TRAILHEAD LIES LESS THAN THREE MILES NORTH OF 0OINT )MPERIAL SEE P AND YOU COULD HIKE FROM THERE IT IS ACCESSIBLE BY CAR IF YOU DRIVE lFTEEN MILES ALONG THE GRAVELED &OREST 3ERVICE ROAD WHICH HEADS EAST FROM !: A MILE SOUTH OF +AIBAB ,ODGE SEE P THE ROUTE IS NORMALLY PASSABLE IN ORDINARY VEHICLES )T TAKES A MILE FOR THE TRAIL ITSELF TO BEGIN IN EARNEST lRST YOU HAVE TO NEGOTIATE A STEEP LITTLE HILL WHICH INVOLVES A BRISK CLIMB 4HEN COMES
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THE HARD PART A HEART STOPPING SIDLE ALONG A NARROW EXPOSED LEDGE OF %SPLANADE SANDSTONE ! BRIEF RESPITE AT -ARION 2IDGE A CAMPSITE OVERLOOKED BY STRIK ING MISSHAPEN ROCK PILLARS IS FOLLOWED BY MORE TREMULOUS LEDGE WORK AS FAR AS 4ILTED -ESA MILES DOWN AT THE OUTER LIMIT OF THE 2EDWALL "EYOND 4ILTED -ESA A VERY STEEP SET OF SWITCHBACKS n WHICH AT LEAST ARE IN GOOD CONDITION n BRINGS YOU DOWN ONTO THE TERRACE WHERE AT LENGTH YOU MEET THE VERDANT .ANKOWEAP #REEK MILES FROM THE TRAILHEAD 4HREE MORE MILES DOWN THE TRACKLESS BUT MOSTLY GENTLE STREAMBED AT BROAD SANDY .ANKOWEAP $ELTA YOU ARRIVE AT THE #OLORADO ITSELF mANKED BY THE TOWERING EASTERN WALL OF -ARBLE #ANYON ON THE FAR SIDE -INOR TRAILS LEAD DOWNSTREAM ALONG THE RIVER FOR AROUND A MILE BUT ULTIMATELY YOU HAVE TO TURN AROUND AND CLIMB BACK THE WAY YOU CAME .OTE THAT THERE ARE NO DESIGNATED CAMPSITES ALONG THE TRAIL INSTEAD YOURE FREE TO SELECT YOUR OWN SITE IN THE WILDERNESS
/PSUI#BTT5SBJM 4HE .ORTH 2IM COUNTERPART TO 7ILLIAM "ASSS 3OUTH "ASS 4RAIL SEE P THE .ORTH "ASS 4RAIL STARTS FROM THE OVERLOOK AT 3WAMP 0OINT SEE P ACCESSED VIA A TWENTY MILE DIRT ROAD WEST OF !: THATS ONLY SUITABLE FOR 4RAILHEAD4XBNQ1PJOU GU
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)N ITS MILE RUN BETWEEN $ESERT 6IEW ON THE 3OUTH 2IM DESCRIBED ON P AND ITS JUNCTION WITH 53 JUST SOUTH OF #AMERON !: DESCENDS MORE THAN FT "EYOND THE lRST DOZEN MILES WHICH LIE WITHIN THE PINE FORESTS OF THE #OCONINO 0LATEAU VAST VIEWS OPEN UP ACROSS THE 0AINTED $ESERT TO THE NORTHEAST #LOSER AT HAND A SEAM IN THE mATLANDS BETRAYS THE PRESENCE OF THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO 2IVER SNAKING NORTH ALONG THE mOOR OF ITS OWN DEEP CANYON TO MEET ITS BIG SISTER 4EN MILES OUTSIDE #AMERON BETWEEN MILE MARKERS AND n BY WHICH TIME BOTH ROAD AND RIVER ARE RUNNING PARALLEL EAST TO WEST n THE ,ITTLE #OLO RADO 2IVER 'ORGE .AVAJO 4RIBAL 0ARK GIVES VISITORS THEIR BEST CHANCE TO CATCH A GLIMPSE OF THE RIVER 4HOUGH THERES NO ADMISSION CHARGE PER SE YOU CAN ONLY REACH THE END OF THE PROMONTORY THAT OFFERS THE lNEST VIEWS BY RUNNING THE GAUNTLET OF SEVERAL DOZEN .AVAJO CRAFTS STALLS MOSTLY SELLING GOOD QUALITY JEWELRY AND TRINKETS 4HE DROP INTO THE CHASM HERE MEASURES AROUND FT ALTHOUGH THE CLIFFS ARE SO SHEER ITS HARD TO LEAN OUT FAR ENOUGH TO SEE THE RIVER ITSELF )N ANY CASE FOR SEVERAL MONTHS OF THE YEAR n ESPECIALLY IN SPRING AND EARLY SUMMER n THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO IS LIABLE TO DRY UP ALTOGETHER !T OTHER TIMES HOWEVER ITS CAPABLE OF POWERFUL mASH mOODS 4HE FACT THAT THE RIVER REMAINS UNDAMMED DESPITE REPEATED EARLY -ORMON ATTEMPTS HAS ACQUIRED AN ADDED SIGNIlCANCE SINCE COMPLETION OF THE 'LEN #ANYON $AM IN .OW THAT THE #OLORADO ITSELF CARRIES ALMOST NO SEDIMENT INTO THE 'RAND #ANYON CERTAIN RIVER SPECIES SUCH AS THE HUMPBACK CHUB CAN ONLY BREED IN THE MUDDY WATERS OF THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO 4HE ,ITTLE #OLORADO ALSO CONTINUES TO PLAY A CRUCIAL ROLE IN (OPI COSMOLOGY &ROM THEIR MESAS SIXTY MILES EAST MODERN (OPI FOLLOW IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THEIR ANCESTORS ALONG THE ANCIENT 3ALT 4RAIL WHICH SKIRTS THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO INTO THE 'RAND #ANYON .OT FAR UPRIVER FROM ITS CONmUENCE WITH THE #OLORADO PROPER LIES THE LEGENDARY SIPAPU THE HOLE THROUGH WHICH THE (OPI BELIEVE HUMAN BEINGS lRST ENTERED THIS THE 4HIRD 7ORLD 9OU WONT lND THIS NATURAL DOMED HOT SPRING MARKED ON ANY MAP ONLY THE (OPI ARE ALLOWED ACCESS "ACK ON THE HIGHWAY FURTHER CRAFTS STALLS SOME AT LESSER OVERLOOKS DOT THE ROADSIDE THE REST OF THE WAY DOWN TO #AMERON
$BNFSPO 4INY #!-%2/. WHICH AMOUNTS TO LITTLE MORE THAN A HANDFUL OF BUILDINGS LIES A MILE OR SO NORTH OF THE INTERSECTION OF !: AND 53 4HE -ORMON 4RAIL ORIGINALLY CROSSED THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO 2IVER AT A ROCKY FORD SIX MILES UPSTREAM 4HAT BECAME KNOWN AS 4ANNERS #ROSSING IN HONOR OF 3ETH 4ANNER A -ORMON PROSPECTOR FROM 4UBA #ITY WHO BUILT A HOUSE NEARBY IN THE S (E LATER EXPANDED HIS OPERATIONS INTO THE 'RAND #ANYON AREA WHERE HE ALSO GAVE HIS NAME TO THE 4ANNER 4RAIL
!FTER THE DANGER FROM QUICKSAND AND mOODING AT 4ANNERS #ROSSING LED TO CONSTRUCTION OF THE lRST SUSPENSION BRIDGE ACROSS THE GORGE IN #AMERON n NAMED FOR ANOTHER LEGENDARY CANYON PROSPECTOR 2ALPH #AMERON n SPRANG INTO BEING ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE SPAN 4HE ORIGINAL ONE LANE BRIDGE IS STILL THERE BUT NOW IT ONLY CARRIES AN OIL PIPELINE HAVING BEEN SUPERSEDED BY A BROADER MODERN HIGHWAY BRIDGE
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#LUSTERED BESIDE THE TWO BRIDGES THE EVER EXPANDING #AMERON 4RADING 0OST REMAINS AT HEART WHAT IT STARTED OUT AS IN n A TRADING CENTER FOR THE .AVAJO .ATION 2ESERVATION RESIDENTS STILL mOCK IN TO STOCK UP ON WOOL mOUR AND OTHER SUPPLIES CATCH UP WITH FRIENDS lLL UP THEIR GAS TANKS AND PICK UP THEIR MAIL AND SOME TRADING POST BUSINESS IS STILL CONDUCTED BY BARTER ! BRISK TOURIST TRADE NOW RUBS ELBOWS WITH THOSE /LD 7EST TRADITIONS ! LARGE MOTEL COMPLEX 0/ "OX #AMERON !: OR WWWCAMERONTRADINGPOSTCOM -ARCHn-AY *UNE TO MID /CT MID /CT TO &EB WHICH PERHAPS SURPRISINGLY OFFERS SOME OF THE HIGHEST STANDARD ACCOMMODATIONS IN THE REGION SITS AMID BEAUTIFULLY LANDSCAPED GARDENS THAT SLOPE TOWARD THE RIVER 2OOMS ON UPPER mOORS FEATURE LARGE BALCO NIES THAT LOOK OUT ACROSS THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO TO THE OPEN DESERT 26 PARKING IS ALSO AVAILABLE FOR #ENTERED ON A MASSIVE lREPLACE IN THE MAIN BUILDING A TIN ROOFED DINING ROOM DAILY SUMMER AMnPM OTHERWISE AMnPM SERVES ALL MEALS !S ITS PRINCIPAL CUSTOMERS ARE TOUR GROUPS IN A HURRY TO BE SOMEWHERE ELSE THE FOODS /+ BUT NOTHING SPECIAL n THE .AVAJO TACO IS PROBABLY YOUR BEST BET FOR A lLLING LUNCH n AND HERE ON THE RESERVATION NO ALCOHOL IS SERVED 4HE ADJOINING SOUVENIR STORE STOCKS A HUGE ARRAY OF 3OUTHWEST ARTS AND CRAFTS BOTH AUTHENTIC AND MASS PRODUCED BUT FOR A REAL TREAT ITS WORTH CROSSING TO THE NEARBY GALLERY WHICH STOCKS SUCH .ATIVE !MERICAN PIECES AS GENUINE (OPI KACHINAS AND MUSEUM QUALITY .AVAJO RUGS %VEN A SMALL RUG FROM THE S CAN COST UP TO
(SBZ.PVOUBJO 7HEN THERES NO ROOM AT #AMERON THE NEAREST ALTERNATIVE LODGING IS NINE MILES SOUTH ON 53 IN THE EVEN SMALLER COMMUNITY OF '2!9 -/5.4!). POPULATION *UST OUTSIDE THE RESERVATION ITS A LONELY DESERT OUTPOST ATTRAC TIVE IN ITS OWN DESOLATE WAY CONSISTING ALMOST ENTIRELY OF THE !NASAZI )NN 0/ "OX 'RAY -OUNTAIN !: OR WWWANASAZIINNCOM 4HIS COMPLEX BOASTS THREE SEPARATE MOTEL BLOCKS n THE ROOMS ARE OF REASONABLE STANDARD WITH PRICES THAT VARY ACCORDING TO YOUR PROXIMITY TO THE POOL n PLUS THE 'RAY -OUNTAIN 2ESTAURANT ACROSS THE HIGHWAY WHICH SERVES -EXICAN SPECIALTIES AND .AVAJO TACOS AS WELL AS STEAKS
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53 EVENTUALLY VEERS TO THE RIGHT AT !NTELOPE 0ASS TWENTY EMPTY MILES BEYOND 4HE 'AP AND HEADS ANOTHER MILES ACROSS AN ALL BUT BARREN MESA TO THE TOWN OF 0!'% !RIZONA "EFORE 'LEN #ANYON $AM WAS CONSTRUCTED FOUR MILES WEST FROM ONWARD THIS AREA BELONGED TO THE .AVAJO .ATION 4HANKS TO A SMALL SPRING HOWEVER THE MESA MADE THE BEST SITE TO HOUSE THE DAMS WORK FORCE 4HE .AVAJO AGREED TO SWAP IT FOR A SIMILAR SIZED CHUNK OF DESERT BETWEEN "LUFF AND (ATCH IN 5TAH ROAD CREWS BLASTED THE ROUTE THROUGH THE %CHO #LIFFS NOW FOLLOWED BY 53 AND 0AGE WAS BORN ON 4HANKSGIVING $AY 7HILE 0AGE IS HOME TO ALMOST TEN THOUSAND PEOPLE MAKING IT THE LARGEST COMMUNITY IN A MILE STRETCH OF THE #OLORADO 2IVER ITS A DULL UNATTRACTIVE LITTLE PLACE THAT NONETHELESS MAKES A CONVENIENT BASE FOR VISITORS TO ,AKE 0OWELL )T ORIGINALLY SEEMED DESTINED TO WITHER AWAY ONCE THE DAM WAS COMPLETED )RONICALLY IT GAINED A NEW LEASE ON LIFE WHEN #ONGRESS DECIDED THAT INSTEAD OF BUILDING MORE DAMS THE 3OUTHWEST COULD MEET ITS POWER NEEDS BY BURNING COAL INSTEAD 4HE .AVAJO 'ENERATING 3TATION WHICH CREATES ELECTRICITY USING COAL FROM "LACK -ESA AND PUMPS WATER FROM ,AKE 0OWELL TO 0HOENIX WENT UP FOUR MILES SOUTHEAST OF TOWN AND HAS KEPT 0AGE AT WORK EVER SINCE
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&IFTEEN MILES NORTH OF #AMERON 53 CLIMBS AWAY NORTHEAST VIA 4UBA #ITY TOWARD -ONUMENT 6ALLEY AND #OLORADO #ONTINUING NORTH 53 PASSES THROUGH (IDDEN 3PRINGS IN ANOTHER lVE MILES THE HOME OF A SMALL GROUP OF 3AN *UAN 3OUTHERN 0AIUTE WHO WERE RECOGNIZED AS A SEPARATE TRIBE IN "Y NOW THE RICH ORANGE %CHO #LIFFS n THE VISIBLE FACE OF THE %CHO #LIFFS -ONOCLINE n HAVE STARTED THEIR RISE EAST OF THE ROAD /VER THE NEXT lFTY MILES THEY REACH WELL OVER FT ABOVE THE #OLORADO 4HE CLIFFS WERE NAMED BY MEMBERS OF *OHN 7ESLEY 0OWELLS SECOND EXPEDITION IN WHO lRED A SHOT AT THE RIVER FROM THE TOP OF THE RIDGE AND HEARD THE ECHO COME BACK SECONDS LATER 4HE ONE NATURAL BREAK IN THE CLIFFS TEN MILES PAST (IDDEN 3PRINGS IS LOGICALLY ENOUGH CALLED 4HE 'AP THOUGH SADLY ITS SMALL TRADING POST DAILY AMnPM CANNOT CLAIM TO HAVE SPAWNED THE MULTINATIONAL CLOTHING CHAIN ! DIRT ROAD CLIMBS UP THROUGH THE NOTCH LEADING TO A DEFUNCT COPPER MINE AND EVENTUALLY 0AGE BUT ITS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR ORDINARY VEHICLES
"SSJWBMBOEJOGPSNBUJPO 4HE HELPFUL STAFF AT 0AGES VISITOR CENTER %LM 3T -ONn&RI AMnPM OR WWWPAGELAKEPOWELLCHAMBERORG OFFER ADVICE ON LOCAL AMENITIES AND ATTRACTIONS WHILE BROCHURES ARE ALSO AVAILABLE AT THE 0OWELL -EMORIAL -USEUM SEE P 3EVERAL OTHER OFlCES IN TOWN THAT PURPORT TO BE INFORMATION CENTERS ARE IN FACT TOUR OPERATORS OFFERING TRIPS TO !NTELOPE #ANYON SEE P .O SCHEDULED BUSES OR mIGHTS SERVE 0AGE THOUGH CHARTER AIRLINES DO OCCASION ALLY mY INTO THE LOCAL AIRPORT A MILE EAST OF TOWN ON !: 'RAND #IRCLE 3HUTTLE WWWGRANDCIRCLESHUTTLECOM RUNS A LOCAL TAXI AND SHUTTLE SERVICE CHARGING PER PERSON FOR THE RIDE TO OR FROM &LAGSTAFF
"DDPNNPEBUJPO 7HILE NO ONE WOULD CHOOSE TO SPEND MUCH TIME IN 0AGE ITSELF ,AKE 0OWELL IS ENOUGH OF AN ATTRACTION TO KEEP ITS MOTELS BUSY FOR MOST OF THE YEAR AND ALLOW THEM TO HIKE THEIR RATES HIGHER THAN YOU MIGHT EXPECT
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4HE VIEW AS YOU DESCEND TOWARD 0AGE IS UTTERLY SURREAL 4HE lVE POWER PLANT CHIMNEYS STAND SILHOUETTED AMID SANDSTONE OUTCROPS WHILE LINES OF PYLONS MARCH OFF ACROSS THE DESERT AND THE MISTY HUMP OF .AVAJO -OUNTAIN RISES IN THE DISTANCE !S YOU APPROACH THE WATERS OF ,AKE 0OWELL EMERGE FROM THE HAZE WITH DROWNED BUTTES POKING THEIR HEADS HERE AND THERE ABOVE THE SURFACE 0AGE ITSELF ON THE OTHER HAND RESEMBLES A DULL SUBURBAN MALL WRIT LARGE IF IT HAS A REDEEMING FEATURE YOULL HAVE A HARD TIME lNDING IT 0ERMANENT STRUCTURES HAVE REPLACED MOST OF ITS ORIGINAL TRAILER HOMES BUT THE ONLY SIGHT OF ANY INTEREST IS THE *OHN 7ESLEY 0OWELL -EMORIAL -USEUM . ,AKE 0OWELL "LVD -ONn3AT AMnPM WWWPOWELLMUSEUMORG )N ADDI TION TO CHARTING THE EXPLOITS OF THE lRST MAN TO RAFT DOWN THE #OLORADO SEE P THE MUSEUM CELEBRATES LATER RIVER RUNNERS AND ALSO RECOUNTS 0AGES OWN BRIEF HISTORY )T ALSO HOLDS A LOCALLY EXCAVATED PLESIOSAUR FOSSIL AND AN AMAZING COLLECTION OF mUORESCENT ROCKS
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! COUPLE OF MILES SOUTHEAST OF 0AGE ON !: MILE MARKER MARKS THE TRAILHEAD FOR !NTELOPE #ANYON !RIZONAS MOST FAMOUS SLOT CANYON 4HE CANYON ACTUALLY COMPRISES TWO SEPARATE SECTIONS ON EITHER SIDE OF THE HIGHWAY AND BOTH ARE ON .AVAJO LAND )MMEDIATELY NORTH OF THE HIGHWAY ,OWER !NTELOPE #ANYON ACHIEVED WORLDWIDE NOTORIETY IN WHEN THE TRAGIC DEATHS OF ELEVEN HIKERS IN A mASH mOOD PROVED JUST HOW DANGEROUS SUCH PLACES CAN BE .EVERTHELESS THEYRE ALSO IRRESISTIBLY ASTONISHINGLY BEAUTIFUL )N THE LAST FEW YEARS THE .AVAJO HAVE REAL IZED WHAT AN INVALUABLE TOURISM ASSET !NTELOPE #ANYON REPRESENTS AND THEY NOW CONTROL ALL ACCESS -AYn/CT DAILY AMnPM WWW NAVAJONATIONPARKSORGHTMANTELOPECANYONHTM )N SUMMER TOURISTS CAN VISIT BOTH SECTIONS OF THE CANYON SIMPLY BY TURNING UP AT THE PARKING LOT (OWEVER NOT ONLY IS THERE A ENTRY FEE BUT YOU ALSO HAVE TO PAY AN OUTRAGEOUS FOR A hGUIDEv SERVICE THAT CONSISTS EITHER OF POINTING YOU TO THE ENTRANCE OF ,OWER !NTELOPE OR DRIVING YOU IN A SHUTTLE VAN DOWN TO 5PPER !NTELOPE #ANYON A MATTER OF PERHAPS TWO MILES 9OURE DEPOSITED JUST OUTSIDE A SLENDER UNPREPOSSESSING CRACK IN A RED SAND STONE WALL 3TEPPING INSIDE IS LIKE ENTERING BOTH A CATHEDRAL IN THAT YOU lND YOURSELF IN A MAJESTIC CHAMBER ADORNED WITH DELICATE GLOWING COLORS AND A PINBALL MACHINE IN THAT YOU CAN JUST IMAGINE THAT ANY SECOND SOME MIGHTY AND UNAVOIDABLE BOULDER WILL COME THUNDERING DOWN THE NARROW PASSAGEWAY
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7ALKING THE FULL LENGTH OF THE CANYON AND BACK TAKES BARELY TWENTY MINUTES EVEN WITH FREQUENT PAUSES TO ADMIRE THE INTERLACING lNS OF MULTIHUED ROCK THAT SWIRL OVERHEAD IN PLACES TO A HEIGHT OF FT ! mASH mOOD IS CAPABLE OF lLLING THE SLOT TO THE BRIM WITH WATER AND SPILLING OVER THE TOP ONCE SUCH A mOOD RECEDES ON THE OTHER HAND IT LEAVES THE CANYON mOOR SCRUBBED BARE OF ITS USUAL EIGHT FOOT LAYER OF lNE SOFT SAND "E WARNED THAT WHILE !NTELOPE #ANYON IS EVERY BIT AS BEAUTIFUL AS PHOTOS SUGGEST IT OFFERS LITTLE OF THE WILDERNESS FEEL OF OTHER DESERT HIGHLIGHTS )TS BOTH SHORT AND NARROW ENOUGH TO FEEL VERY CROWDED AT BUSY TIMES AND AS THE MAIN PRIORITY FOR ALL VISITORS IS TO TAKE PHOTOGRAPHS THERES SELDOM SPACE OR TIME TO SIMPLY RELAX AND ENJOY THE PLACE 'IVEN THE HIGH COST OF AN UNACCOMPANIED VISIT YOU MAY PREFER TO JOIN A GUIDED TOUR FROM 0AGE WHICH TYPICALLY COSTS ABOUT FOR A ONE HOUR TRIP AND UP TO FOR A LONGER PHOTOGRAPHY TOUR 3EVERAL COMPETING COMPANIES HAVE OFlCES IN CENTRAL 0AGE (IGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR HIS PERSONALIZED SMALL GROUP EXCURSIONS IS THE AFFABLE SELF STYLED #HIEF 4SOSIE OF 'RAND #IRCLE !DVENTURES 3 ,AKE 0OWELL "LVD WWWANTELOPESLOTCANYONTOURSCOM WHO ALSO LEADS DAY TRIPS TO LESSER KNOWN CANYONS AND OVERLOOKS WHILE /VER LAND #ANYON 4OURS . .AVAJO $RIVE OR WWWOVERLANDCANYONTOURSCOM OFFERS EXTENDED TRIPS INTO THE BACKCOUNTRY
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)PSTFTIPF#FOE !N EASY SELF GUIDED HIKE NOT FAR SOUTH OF 0AGE LEADS TO AN AMAZING VIEW OF (ORSESHOE "END WHERE THE #OLORADO 2IVER MAKES AN EXTRAVAGANT DEGREE TURN IN THE DEPTHS OF -ARBLE #ANYON ROUGHLY HALFWAY THROUGH ITS SHORT COURSE BETWEEN 'LEN #ANYON $AM AND THE OFlCIAL START OF THE 'RAND #ANYON AT ,EES &ERRY 4O REACH THE OVERLOOK DRIVE SOUTH ON 53 AND TURN WEST ON THE DIRT ROAD JUST PAST MILE MARKER EXACTLY MILES SOUTH OF THE 7AL -ART IN 0AGE 4HE ROAD LEADS TO A PARKING LOT AT THE FOOT OF A SMALL SANDY HILL #LIMB THE RAILED
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PATH TO THE TOP OF THAT HILL THEN DOWN ANOTHER MILE TO THE LIP OF THE GORGE 4HE RIVER ITSELF IS ONLY VISIBLE FROM THE VERY EDGE WHICH IS UNRAILED WINDY AND PRETTY HAIR RAISING 4HE HUGE CURVING SWEEP FAR BELOW BARELY lTS INTO THE WIDEST ANGLED LENS "E SURE TO CARRY WATER AND ALLOW ABOUT AN HOUR FOR THE EXPOSED ROUND TRIP HIKE
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(MFO$BOZPO%BN 'LEN #ANYON $AM PLUGS -ARBLE #ANYON NOT AT ITS NARROWEST POINT BUT AT ITS NORTHERN END JUST DOWNSTREAM FROM 7AHWEAP #REEK 7HERE 53 CROSSES 'LEN #ANYON "RIDGE FOUR MILES OUTSIDE OF 0AGE THE VAST CURVE OF THE DAM LIES TO THE NORTH WHILE -ARBLE #ANYON DROPS FT BELOW YOU 4HERES NO STOPPING ON THE BRIDGE SO IF YOU WANT A BETTER LOOK CALL IN AT THE ULTRAMODERN #ARL (AYDEN 6ISITOR #ENTER DAILY /CTn!PRIL AMnPM -AYn3EPT AMnPM WWWNPSGOVGLCA ON THE WEST BANK WHICH DOUBLES AS THE MAIN SOURCE OF INFORMATION ON THE 'LEN #ANYON .ATIONAL 2ECREATIONAL !REA 3ECURITY CONCERNS HAVE LED TO SUSPENSION OF THE FREE TOURS FOR MOST OF THE TIME SINCE 3EPTEMBER )F THEYRE RUNNING WHEN YOU TURN UP ALLOW HALF AN HOUR TO DROP VIA TWO ELEVATORS lRST TO THE WALK WAY ALONG THE TOP THEN A FURTHER FT TO THE GENERATING STATION AT THE BOTTOM "ENEATH THE ROAR OF THE MILLION KILOWATT TURBINES A DIGITAL COUNTER STEADILY TICKS OFF THE BILLIONS OF DOLLARS SO FAR EARNED BY THE SALE OF POWER ! SPUR ROAD JUST BEFORE THE BRIDGE ON THE EAST BANK TUNNELS DOWN THROUGH THE CLIFFS TO THE RIVER RAFTERS USE IT AS AN ACCESS POINT FOR THE GLORIOUSLY LAZY lFTEEN MILE mOAT TRIP DOWN TO ,EES &ERRY 4HERES NO WHITE WATER ALONG THE WAY AND STRICTLY SPEAKING YOU NEVER ENTER THE 'RAND #ANYON BUT ITS STILL A VERY PLEASANT DRIFT BETWEEN IMPOSING HIGH CANYON CLIFFS &OR MORE DETAILS SEE P OR CONTACT 7ILDERNESS 2IVER !DVENTURES 3 ,AKE 0OWELL "LVD 0AGE OR WWWRIVERADVENTURESCOM ADULTS UNDER AGE
8BIXFBQ 5NLIKE 0AGE 7!(7%!0 A COUPLE OF MILES WEST OF 'LEN #ANYON $AM HAS YET TO BECOME A TOWN ,AKE 0OWELLS PRINCIPAL MARINA HAS HOWEVER GROWN
'RAND #ANYON TRAILS
*GUIFSFTPOFTVSFSFNFEZGPSUIFPGUWPJDFEDPNQMBJOUUIBUJUT IBSEUPBQQSFDJBUFPSFWFODPNQSFIFOEUIF(SBOE$BOZPOGSPNUIF SJN JUTUPIJLFEPXOJOUPJU"EFTDFOUBMPOHBOZPGUIFQBSLTmWF IVOESFENJMFTPGNBHOJmDFOUUSBJMTJTSFXBSEFEXJUINVDINPSF UIBOKVTUBOPUIFSWJFXPGUIFTBNFUIJOH*OTUFBE POFQBTTFT UISPVHIBTFRVFODFPGVUUFSMZEJGGFSFOUMBOETDBQFT FBDIXJUI JUTPXOEJTUJODUUPQPHSBQIZ DMJNBUF BOEXJMEMJGF#VUXIJMFUIF DBOZPOJTDFSUBJOMZBTVCMJNF FOUJDJOHXJMEFSOFTT JUDBOBMTPCFB IPTUJMF VOGPSHJWJOHFOWJSPONFOU HSVFMJOHFWFOGPSFYQFSUIJLFST
.ORTH +AIBAB 4RAIL
7HAT MAKES THE CANYON UNIQUE 7HATEVER EXPERIENCE YOU MAY HAVE GAINED ELSEWHERE THE 'RAND #ANYON IS DIFFERENT -OST HIKERS ARE FAR MORE FAMILIAR WITH WALKING UP HILLS AND MOUNTAINS WHEN ITS THE INITIAL CLIMB THATS MOST DEMANDING AND IF YOUR ENERGY LEVELS START TO mAG YOU CAN SIMPLY TURN AROUND AND WALK BACK TO BASE #ANYON HIKING IS DECEPTIVELY SEDUCTIVE 4HE DESCENT SEEMS EASY AND YOUR PROGRESS QUICK 4HERES ALWAYS ANOTHER GREAT VIEW A LITTLE FARTHER ON AND THE LURE OF THE RIVER BECKONS YOU FORWARD %VENTUALLY HOWEVER YOU HAVE TO PAY START YOUR ASCENT WHEN YOURE ALREADY TIRED AND THE MIDDAY HEAT OF THE INNER CANYON HAS SET IN AND YOURE IN FOR A MURDEROUSLY LONG HAUL 7ITH THE 3OUTH 2IM RISING FT ABOVE SEA LEVEL AND THE .ORTH 2IM FT THE ALTITUDE ALONE IS FATIGUING !S A RULE OF THUMB MOST PEOPLE SPEND TWICE AS MUCH TIME CLIMBING BACK UP AS IT TOOK TO HIKE DOWN 4HAT MEANS TURNING BACK AFTER A THIRD OF YOUR ALLOTTED TIME IF YOU PLAN A SIX HOUR HIKE ALLOW TWO HOURS TO HIKE DOWN AND FOUR HOURS TO HIKE UP 2ANGERS SAY THE AVERAGE SPEED IS TWO MILES PER HOUR ON THE WAY DOWN AND JUST ONE ON THE WAY UP 'RANDVIEW 4RAIL
4RAIL TOPOGRAPHY 4HE MAIN TRAILS FROM THE 3OUTH 2IM ARE BROADLY SIMILAR INVOLVING A SEVEN TO TEN MILE DESCENT TO THE #OLORADO !N INITIAL BURST OF STEEP SWITCHBACKS CULMINATES IN DRAMATIC OVERLOOKS FROM ATOP THE #OCONINO SANDSTONE LAYER ABOUT MILES ALONG THE TRAIL 4HE 4ONTO 0LATFORM PRESENTS ANOTHER WAY STATION ABOUT THREE MILES DOWN 4HE TRAILS CONTINUE A COUPLE OF MILES TO THE EDGE OF THIS PLATFORM FOR VIEWS OF THE 'RANITE 'ORGE BEFORE TAKING THE lNAL PLUNGE TO THE RIVER !LMOST ALL ARE DRAINAGE TRAILS WHICH DESCEND ALONG 4HE BEST HIKING SEASONS ARE SPRING AND EXISTING WATERCOURSES AND THUS OFFER ONLY FALL WHEN TEMPERATURES ARE COOLER THE TRAILS INTERMITTENT VIEWS THE EXCEPTION IS THE LESS CROWDED AND WATER IS MORE AVAILABLE 3OUTH +AIBAB WHICH FOLLOWS THE CREST 3UMMER ON THE OTHER HAND OFFERS FAR FROM OF A HIGH RIDGE WITH VIEWS MOST OF THE IDEAL CONDITIONS THOUGH OF COURSE THATS WAY DOWN WHEN MOST PEOPLE VISIT !T THAT TIME OF YEAR !S THE .ORTH 2IM IS SET BACK ESPECIALLY AVOID HIKING IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FARTHER FROM THE RIVER TRAILS FROM IT ARE DAY 3ET OFF VERY EARLY IN THE MORNING n WELL PROPORTIONATELY LONGER AVERAGING AROUND BEFORE AM IF YOURE HEADING DOWN AND FOURTEEN MILES AND THUS REQUIRE AT LEAST BEFORE AM IF YOURE CLIMBING OUT ONE OVERNIGHT STOP EN ROUTE IF YOURE HEADED ALL THE WAY TO THE #OLORADO
7HEN TO HIKE
)NNER CANYON WILDLIFE "ELOWªTHEªRIM ªTHEª'RANDª#ANYONªISªFARª FROMªTHEªLIFELESSªDESERTªITªMIGHTªAPPEARª FROMªABOVEª/NEªOFªTHEªGREATªJOYSªOFª HIKINGªTHEªINNERªCANYONªISªTHEªCHANCEª TOªEXPERIENCEªTHEªmORAªANDªFAUNAªOFª THISªUNIQUEªWILDERNESSªECOSYSTEMª !SªYOUªDESCENDªTOWARDªTHEªRIVER ªTHEª SURROUNDINGªVEGETATIONªPROGRESSIVELYª CHANGESªFROMªSPRUCEªANDªlRªTOªDENSEª PONDEROSAªWOODLANDSªANDªPIľON JUNIPERªhPYGMYªFOREST vªFOLLOWEDªBYª CACTI ªYUCCA ªANDªMESQUITEª4HOUGHª THEªLUSHªBANKSªOFªTHEª#OLORADOªAREª RICHªWITHªWILDLIFE ªTHEªRIVERªITSELFªISªSUCHª ANªIMPASSABLEªBARRIERªTHATªSEPARATEª SPECIESªOFªANIMALSªHAVEªEVOLVEDª ONªEITHERªSIDEª4HUSªREDDISHª!BERTSª SQUIRRELSªPESTERªPICNICKINGªHIKERSªONªTHEª "RIGHTª!NGELª4RAIL ªWHILEªGRAYERª+AIBABª SQUIRRELSªSCAVENGEªALONGªTHEª.ORTHª +AIBABª4RAILªACROSSªTHEªRIVERª3IMILARLY ª DIFFERENTªKINDSªOFªRATTLESNAKEªINHABITª THEªTWOªRIMSªnªNONEªOFªWHICHªHASªEVERª SERIOUSLYªHARMEDªHUMANªVISITORS !MONG THE BEST TRAILS FOR WILDLIFE ENTHUSIASTS ARE THE (ERMIT 4RAIL WHICH IS RICH IN BIRDS AND BUTTERmIES AND THE 3OUTH +AIBAB 4RAIL WHICH IS POPULAR WITH SOARING #ALIFORNIA CONDORS ESPECIALLY IN THE EARLY MORNING
3OUTH +AIBAB 4RAIL
!BERT SQUIRREL "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL
2ECOMMENDED DAY HIKES 4HE MOST IMPORTANT PIECE OF ADVICE FOR WOULD BE HIKERS IS DONT TRY TO HIKE TO THE #OLORADO 2IVER AND BACK IN ONE DAY 3EVERAL HIKERS EACH YEAR DIE FROM EXHAUSTION IN THE ATTEMPT 4HE ONLY SAFE WAY TO APPROACH THE RIVER IS AS PART OF A MULTI DAY EXPEDITION AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER THREE (OWEVER PLENTY OF SATISFYING DAY HIKES ARE POSSIBLE WITHIN THE CANYON 4HE FOLLOWING SIX ROUND TRIPS ARE HIGHLY RECOMMENDED n WELL WORTH TAKING IN THEIR OWN RIGHT AND USEFUL EXPERIENCE FOR ANYONE PLANNING A LONGER BACKPACKING TRIP 7HILE ITS ALWAYS TEMPTING TO VENTURE THAT LITTLE BIT FARTHER ESPECIALLY ON YOUR l RST CANYON HIKE ONLY DO SO IF YOURE ABSOLUTELY SURE OF YOUR STAMINA AND SUPPLIES 3OUTH +AIBAB 4RAIL TO #EDAR -ESA MILE ROUND TRIP 0ERHAPS THE MOST INSTANTLY REWARDING OF ALL 'RAND #ANYON HIKES THIS STARK EXPOSED TRAIL SETS OFF FROM 9AKI 0OINT NOT FAR EAST OF 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE ON THE 3OUTH 2IM 4HE VIEWS ARE ESPECIALLY SUBLIME IF YOU SET OFF AT DAWN BUT IN SUMMER THE HEAT FARTHER DOWN CAN BE OPPRESSIVE .ORTH +AIBAB 4RAIL TO 3UPAI 4UNNEL MILE ROUND TRIP 4HE .ORTH 2IMS BEST LOVED TRAIL IS DEMANDING FROM THE WORD GO UNLESS YOURE ESPECIALLY l T ITS BEST ONLY TO GO AS FAR AS THE DRAMATIC VIEWPOINT ATOP THE 2EDWALL (ERMIT 4RAIL TO 3ANTA -ARIA 3PRING MILE ROUND TRIP 4HE PEACEFUL SELDOM BUSY (ERMIT 4RAIL LEAVES THE 3OUTH 2IM FROM THE FAR WEST END OF (ERMIT 2OAD DESCENDING THROUGH SOME OF THE CANYONS MOST VERDANT SCENERY TO A LOVELY LITTLE OASIS THAT OFFERS GREAT VIEWS "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL TO 4HREE -ILE 2ESTHOUSE MILE ROUND TRIP 4HE CANYONS OLDEST AND BUSIEST TRAIL DESCENDS STEEP SWITCHBACKS FROM THE HEART OF 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE WITH FABULOUS NEW PANORAMAS OPENING UP AT EVERY TWIST 'RANDVIEW 4RAIL TO (ORSESHOE -ESA MILE ROUND TRIP /NE OF THE FEW MAJOR TRAILS NOT TO DESCEND ALL THE WAY TO THE #OLORADO 2IVER THE SUPERBLY ENGINEERED 'RANDVIEW 4RAIL NONETHELESS OFFERS SOME OF THE 3OUTH 2IMS l NEST HIKING .ORTH +AIBAB 4RAIL TO 2OARING 3PRINGS MILE ROUND TRIP )T TAKES A MAJOR PHYSICAL EFFORT TO HIKE TO AND FROM THIS STUNNING .ORTH 2IM WATERFALL IN A SINGLE DAY BUT THE SCENERY ALONG THE WAY IS UTTERLY BREATHTAKING
4HE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL THROUGH )NDIAN 'ARDEN AND THE ONWARD TRAIL TO 0LATEAU 0OINT
STEADILY SINCE IT WAS ESTABLISHED IN COORDINATING MOST OF THE BOAT RENTAL AND TOUR BUSINESS AND ALSO OFFERING SEVERAL HUNDRED MOTEL ROOMS 4HE lRST MAN TO APPRECIATE 7AHWEAPS POTENTIAL DID SO LONG BEFORE THE DAM WAS EVER BUILT !RT 'REENE OWNER OF THE -ARBLE #ANYON ,ODGE SEE P RAN BOAT TRIPS UPRIVER TO 2AINBOW "RIDGE FROM THE S ONWARD WHEN HE GOT WIND OF PLANS TO DAM 'LEN #ANYON HE SHREWDLY LEASED THE LAND AT THE MOUTH OF 7AHWEAP #REEK AT A BARGAIN RATE +NOWING IT MADE THE PERFECT SITE FOR A MARINA 'REENE REFUSED TO BUDGE AND WOUND UP MAKING A KILLING AS OFlCIAL CONCESSIONAIRE
4HE PRIME DRAW AT 7AHWEAP IF YOU HAVE TIME IS A BOAT TOUR lFTY MILES NORTH TO STUNNING 2AINBOW "RIDGE .ATIONAL -ONUMENT WHERE THE WORLDS LARG EST NATURAL BRIDGE SPANS BEAUTIFUL &ORBIDDEN #ANYON 4HE LENGTH OF YOUR TRIP DEPENDS ON THE LEVEL OF THE LAKE WHAT USED TO BE A HALF DAY TRIP HAS BECOME AN EIGHT HOUR ONE IN RECENT YEARS &OR DETAILS AND THE CURRENT SCHEDULE CONTACT ,AKE 0OWELL 2ESORT ON THE NUMBER BELOW ADULTS UNDER AGE 4HE RESORT ALSO RUNS SHORTER TREKS FROM 7AHWEAP RANGING FROM A ONE HOUR PADDLE WHEELER TRIP DAILY *UNE TO EARLY 3EPT ADULTS UNDER AGE TO NINETY MINUTE !NTELOPE #ANYON EXCURSIONS ADULTS UNDER AGE AND A DINNER CRUISE DAILY -AYn3EPT
/NLY HALF THE ROOMS AT PLUSH ,AKE 0OWELL 2ESORT OR WWWLAKEPOWELLCOM .OVn!PRIL -AYn/CT OVERLOOK ,AKE 0OWELL )TS 2AINBOW 2OOM RESTAURANT HOWEVER PROVIDES HUGE LAKESIDE WINDOWS AND SERVES GOOD FOOD DAILY FOR ALL MEALS WITH PRICES KEPT RELATIVELY LOW TO CATER TO THE MANY TOUR GROUPS THAT PASS THROUGH 4HE SAME MANAGEMENT ALSO OPERATES AN ADJACENT lRST COME lRST SERVED CAMPGROUND AS WELL AS AN 26 PARK !PRILn/CT .OVn-ARCH
].BSCMF$BOZPO
1SBDUJDBMJUJFT
5)& 30"%#& 58 & & /5)& 3* . 4
#PBUUPVSTGSPN8BIXFBQ
.BSCMF$BOZPO /N THE ROUTE NORTH ALONG 53 FROM #AMERON TOWARD 0AGE SEE P FORK ING LEFT INSTEAD AT !NTELOPE 0ASS TAKES YOU ONTO 53 ! WHICH PRESSES ON FOR ANOTHER lFTEEN MILES AT THE FOOT OF THE %CHO #LIFFS BEFORE lNALLY DROPPING DOWN TO REACH .AVAJO "RIDGE !LTHOUGH THE SPOT WHERE 53 ! lNALLY CROSSES THE #OLORADO IS OFTEN LOOSELY REFERRED TO AS ,EES &ERRY THE HIGHWAY BRIDGE ACTU ALLY STANDS SIX MILES DOWNSTREAM FROM THE FERRY CROSSING IT SUPERSEDED "Y THIS POINT THE 'RAND #ANYON HAS OFlCIALLY BEGUN AND IS ALREADY ALMOST FT DEEP *OHN 7ESLEY 0OWELL NAMED THIS SEGMENT OF THE GORGE -ARBLE #ANYON ON ACCOUNT OF ITS HIGHLY POLISHED WALLS INDENTED WITH CAVERNS AND CARVINGS THAT APPEAR ALMOST ARCHITECTURAL -ARBLE #ANYON STRETCHES MILES FROM ,EES &ERRY TO THE RIVERS CONmUENCE WITH THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO BUT ITS ANOTHER lFTY MILES FROM THE BRIDGE BEFORE THE CHASM REACHES A MILE DEEP (ERE NEAR ITS STARTING POINT IT MAKES SUCH NARROW IMPRESSION IN THE VAST mATLAND OF THE -ARBLE 0LATFORM THAT YOU BARELY DISCERN IT UNTIL YOURE RIGHT ON TOP OF IT
/BWBKP#SJEHF %VEN THOUGH 0ROHIBITION MEANT THE NEWLY BUILT .AVAJO "RIDGE COULD ONLY BE BAPTIZED WITH GINGER ALE AND NOT CHAMPAGNE ITS OPENING IN AS THE WORLDS
5)& 30"%#& 58 & & /5)& 3* . 4
]-FFT'FSSZ
HIGHEST STEEL ARCH BRIDGE MARKED A TURNING POINT IN !RIZONA HISTORY 5NTIL THEN NO BRIDGE SPANNED THE #OLORADO BETWEEN 3EARCHLIGHT .EVADA AND NORTHERN 5TAH WHILE THE NEARBY FERRY CROSSING WAS SO DANGEROUS IT HAD BEEN ABANDONED ALTOGETHER 7HEN A CRUCIAL PIECE OF EQUIPMENT NEEDED TO lNISH .AVAJO "RIDGE WAS STRANDED ON THE WRONG SIDE OF THE RIVER THE ONLY WAY TO GET IT ACROSS WAS TO TAKE IT EIGHT HUNDRED MILES BY ROAD VIA ,AS 6EGAS .OWADAYS THE NEAREST BRIDGE TO .AVAJO "RIDGE IS A MERE lFTY YARDS AWAY 4HE ORIGINAL SPAN WAS JOINED BY A MODERN REPLICA n ALL BUT IDENTICAL BUT AT FT MORE THAN TWICE AS WIDE n IN 4HE OLD BRIDGE IS RESERVED FOR PEDESTRIANS SO YOU CAN WALK OUT TO THE MIDDLE AND GAZE FT DOWN TO THE #OLORADO GREEN WITH ALGAE AT THE BOTTOM OF -ARBLE #ANYON 4O ADD TO THE SPECTACLE THIS SPOT IS ALSO POPULAR WITH CONDORS ,AND OWNERSHIP HERE IS EXTRAORDINARILY CONVOLUTED INCIDENTALLY 4HE TOP OF THE WEST BANK BELONGS TO THE 'LEN #ANYON .ATIONAL 2ECREATION !REA THOUGH "UREAU OF ,AND -ANAGEMENT HOLDINGS START NOT FAR BEYOND THE TOP OF THE EAST BANK BELONGS TO THE .AVAJO .ATION AND BOTH BRIDGE AND RIVER ARE IN 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL 0ARK /N THE WEST BANK THE .AVAJO "RIDGE )NTERPRETIVE #ENTER DAILY !PRILn 3EPT AMnPM CLOSED /CTn-ARCH RESTROOMS ALWAYS OPEN WWWNPSGOVGLCA HOLDS HAIR RAISING PHOTOS OF .AVAJO STEELWORKERS ERECTING THE BRIDGE PLUS DISPLAYS AND LITERATURE ABOUT THE 'LEN #ANYON REGION 4HE LARGE OUTSIDE VIEWING AREA IS FESTOONED WITH ALL SORTS OF PLAQUES INCLUDING THE ONE HONORING *OHN $OYLE ,EE THATS MENTIONED ON P
.BSCMF$BOZPO-PEHF .OT FAR WEST OF .AVAJO "RIDGE JUST PAST THE TURNOFF FOR ,EES &ERRY THE -ARBLE #ANYON ,ODGE OR PROVIDES MORE THAN lFTY CONVENTIONAL MOTEL STYLE ROOMS WITH 46S BUT NO PHONES IN LOW SLUNG BUILDINGS AT THE FOOT OF THE CLIFFS 4HE CENTRAL LODGE HOLDS A GIFT STORE WITH THE FEEL OF A TRADING POST WHICH SELLS .AVAJO RUGS AND OTHER .ATIVE !MERICAN CRAFTS AND AN ADEQUATE BUT UNEXCITING RESTAURANT THATS OPEN FOR ALL MEALS DAILY $INNER ENTREES COST n WITH A .AVAJO TACO SALAD FOR AND INEXPENSIVE HOUSE WINE 7HILE THE LODGE AS A WHOLE CAN BE A LITTLE SLAPDASH ITS A ROMANTIC ENOUGH OVERNIGHT STOP FEATURING A SPECTACULAR DESERT SETTING WHERE ROADRUNNERS SCURRY ACROSS THE SANDS -ARBLE #ANYON ,ODGE HAS ALWAYS CATERED TO ADVENTURERS HERE FOR RAFTING AND lSHING TRIPS ON THE #OLORADO AND IT GEARS UP AT AM EACH DAY TO MEET THE NEEDS OF RIVER RATS !N ARRAY OF PLAQUES AND MONUMENTS ACROSS THE HIGHWAY HONORS RIVER PIONEERS FROM THE $OMÓNGUEZ AND %SCALANTE EXPEDITION SEE P ONWARD
-FFT'FSSZ
2EACHED VIA A GENTLY SLOPING SIX MILE SPUR ROAD THAT BRANCHES RIGHT FROM 53 ! JUST BEYOND .AVAJO "RIDGE ,%%3 &%229 IS LITTLE MORE THAN A DOT ON THE MAP ITS NOT A TOWN AND HAS A POPULATION OF ZERO .ONETHELESS IT BOASTS THE GEOGRAPHIC DISTINCTION OF BEING THE OFlCIAL STARTING POINT OF THE 'RAND #ANYON AND EVEN GREATER HYDROLOGIC SIGNIlCANCE AS THE BOUNDARY BETWEEN THE UPPER AND LOWER BASINS OF THE #OLORADO 2IVER 4HATS ACTUALLY A POLITICAL NUANCE BROADLY SPEAKING UNDER THE #OLORADO 2IVER #OMPACT OF HALF THE WATER IN THE RIVER hBELONGSv TO THE STATES UPSTREAM FROM ,EES &ERRY THE OTHER HALF TO
5)& 30"%#& 58 & & /5)& 3* . 4
]-FFT'FSSZ
THOSE DOWNSTREAM 4HE COMPLICATIONS AND CONTRADICTIONS CONCEALED WITHIN THAT SIMPLE FORMULA ARE FAR TOO CONVOLUTED TO GO INTO HERE THOUGH YOULL NOTICE THAT NONE OF THE RIVER IS THEREBY LEFT IN PEACE TO mOW INTO THE OCEAN 4HE PRACTICAL IMPORTANCE OF ,EES &ERRY STEMS FROM THE FACT THAT ITS THE ONLY PLACE WITHIN HUNDREDS OF MILES THAT OFFERS EASY LAND ACCESS TO BOTH BANKS OF THE #OLORADO 4HATS BECAUSE IT STANDS AT THE RIVERS CONmUENCE WITH THE 0ARIA 2IVER WHICH mOWS SOUTHEASTWARD FROM SOUTHERN 5TAH ! 0AIUTE NAMED .ARAGUTS GUIDED -ORMON ELDER *ACOB (AMBLIN TO THIS REMOTE SPOT IN WHILE *OHN $OYLE ,EES EPONYMOUS FERRY SERVICE SEE BOX P WAS INSTIGATED IN !FTER ,EES DEATH HIS WIFE %MMA REMAINED IN THE AREA BUT SOLD THE FERRY BACK TO THE -ORMONS FOR WORTH OF CATTLE !LWAYS A HAZARDOUS OPERATION WITH THE BOATS IN CONSTANT DANGER OF BEING SWEPT DOWNSTREAM THE FERRY WAS lNALLY ABANDONED AFTER AN ACCIDENT IN *UNE IN WHICH THREE LIVES PLUS A -ODEL 4 &ORD WERE LOST &OUR MILES DOWN FROM -ARBLE #ANYON THE ROAD PASSES THE FAIRLY BASIC ,EES &ERRY #AMPGROUND WHICH LIES WITHIN 'LEN #ANYON .ATIONAL 2ECREATION !REA AND OFFERS WATER AND TOILETS BUT NOT SHOWERS PER NIGHT ! FEW HUNDRED YARDS FARTHER ON IT CROSSES THE 0ARIA 2IVER TO A LARGE PARK ING LOT AND LAUNCH RAMP ON THE #OLORADO 4HE CONCRETE GAUGING STATION ON THE FAR BANK MARKS THE EXACT START n -ILE n OF THE 'RAND #ANYON 4HIS IS WHERE WHITE WATER RAFTING EXPEDITIONS SET OFF INTO THE CANYON PASSENGERS CAN LEAVE THE RIVER AT 0HANTOM 2ANCH lVE OR SIX DAYS DOWNRIVER BUT THE lRST POINT AT WHICH THE BOATS CAN BE TAKEN OUT AGAIN IS $IAMOND #REEK AROUND TWELVE DAYS AWAY BY MUSCLE POWER 3OME BOAT TRIPS DO HOWEVER END HERE !S DETAILED ON P COMMERCIAL OPERATORS BASED IN 0AGE RUN HALF DAY SMOOTH WATER mOAT TRIPS TO ,EES &ERRY FROM JUST BELOW 'LEN #ANYON $AM 4HAT MILE STRETCH FED BY COLD CLEAR WATER RELEASED FROM THE DAM n AND NOT YET MUDDIED BY THE INmUX FROM THE 0ARIA n HAS BECAME FAMOUS FOR ITS TROUT lSHING !LL LOCAL LODGES INCLUDING ,EES &ERRY !NGLERS AT #LIFF $WELLERS ,ODGE OR WWW LEESFERRYCOM ORGANIZE GUIDED lSHING EXPEDITIONS AT VARYING PRICES 4HE OFl CIAL DAILY CATCH LIMIT IS TWO TROUT PER PERSON
-FFT'FSSZUSBJMT 2UDIMENTARY TRAILS FROM THE FAR END OF THE PARKING LOT LEAD A COUPLE OF HUNDRED YARDS TO AN ASSORTMENT OF BUILDINGS LEFT OVER FROM THE FERRY ERA ,ARGELY CONSTRUCTED OF SLABS OF RED SANDSTONE THEY INCLUDE A SMALL POST OFlCE AND THE STURDY ,EES &ERRY &ORT ERECTED IN AS A STRONGHOLD AGAINST .AVAJO ATTACKS THAT NEVER MATERIALIZED 4HE MOST PROMINENT REMAINS HOWEVER DATE FROM AN ABORTIVE EXPERIMENT BY #HARLES ( 3PENCER WHO SET OUT IN TO MINE GOLD FROM THE EXPOSED #HINLE SHALE ON THE SLOPES ABOVE ,EES &ERRY 3PENCERS ELABORATE SCHEME IN WHICH HED SLUICE THE SHALE DOWN THE HILLSIDE USING PRESSURIZED HOSES REQUIRED HIM TO HAUL COAL TO THE SITE WHICH HE ATTEMPTED BOTH BY MULE TRAIN OVER THE %CHO #LIFFS AND BY STEAMBOAT ALONG THE RIVER 7HILE THE BOILER OF HIS ABANDONED BOAT LIES RUSTING IN THE #OLORADO HIS PRECIPITOUS 3PENCER 4RAIL IS STILL THERE SWITCHBACKING UP THE CLIFFS n THOUGH NOT REGULARLY MAINTAINED ITS OPEN TO HIKERS AND OFFERS A GRUELING FT CLIMB 7HAT ULTIMATELY STYMIED 3PENCERS ENDEAVOR WAS THAT SOMETHING KEPT CLOGGING HIS AMALGAMATORS RENDERING THEM INOPERATIVE /NLY lFTY YEARS LATER DID HE lND OUT THE PROBLEM WAS CAUSED BY RHENIUM A METAL UNKNOWN TO SCIENCE BACK IN )NCREDIBLY HE RETURNED TO ,EES &ERRY NOW AGED OVER AND EMBARKED ON ANOTHER UNSUCCESSFUL MINING VENTURE THIS TIME IN PURSUIT OF RHENIUM ITSELF
+PIO%PZMF-FF o
5)& 30"%#& 58 & & /5)& 3* . 4
]-FFT'FSSZ
5SBWFMFSTXIPSFBEUIFQMBRVFBU/BWBKP#SJEHFUIBUIBJMT*OHNª$OYLEª,EEªBTªiBNBO PG HPPE GBJUI TPVOE KVEHNFOU BOE JOEPNJUBCMF DPVSBHFw NJHIU OFWFS SFBMJ[F UIBU UIFNBOXIPQVUUIF-FFJO-FFT'FSSZXBTBMTPBQSJNFNPWFSJOPOFPGUIFNPTU OPUPSJPVTFQJTPEFTJO8FTUFSOIJTUPSZ8IJMFUIFQSFDJTFUSVUISFNBJOTJOEJTQVUF UIF HFOFSBMMZBDDFQUFETUPSZSVOTTPNFUIJOHMJLFUIJT *O .PSNPOTnFFJOHQFSTFDVUJPOJO*MMJOPJTWFOUVSFEXFTUCFZPOEUIF6OJUFE 4UBUFTBOEGPVOEFE4BMU-BLF$JUZ"MNPTUJNNFEJBUFMZ IPXFWFS UIF64FYUFOEFE JUTCPVOEBSJFTUPUIF1BDJmD BOE$BMJGPSOJBCPVOEQJPOFFSTCFHBOUPTUSFBNUISPVHI .PSNPOUFSSJUPSZ#Z UFOTJPOTXFSFTVDIUIBUBi.PSNPO8BSwXBTTFFOBT JOFWJUBCMF 5IBU"VHVTU mOEJOHUIBUOPPOFXPVMETFMMUIFNTVQQMJFT BXBHPOUSBJOPGTFUUMFST GSPN"SLBOTBTBOE.JTTPVSJSFTPSUFEUPSBJEJOH.PSNPOGBSNT$BNQJOHBU-OUN TAINª -EADOWS JO TPVUIFSO 6UBI UIF TFUUMFST XFSF BNCVTIFE CZ XBSSJPST ESFTTFE BT/BUJWF"NFSJDBOT8IFUIFSUIFBUUBDLFSTXFSFHFOVJOF6UFTPSXIJUF.PSNPOTJO EJTHVJTFoBT.BSL5XBJOSFQPSUFEJO3PVHIJOH*UoJTTUJMMPQFOUPRVFTUJPO$MFBSMZ IPXFWFS MPDBM .PSNPOT TBX UIF XBHPO USBJO BT B UISFBU UP CF FMJNJOBUFE 5IFJS DPNNBOEFS +PIO-FF SPEFVQUPUIFCFMFBHVFSFE(FOUJMFTPO4FQUFNCFS DMBJN JOHUPIBWFOFHPUJBUFEBUSVDFXJUIUIFi*OEJBOT wBOETUBUFEUIBUJGUIFZMBJEEPXO UIFJSHVOT UIFZXPVMECFBMMPXFEUPQSPDFFEXFTUJOQFBDF %FTQFSBUFMZ TIPSU PG BNNVOJUJPO UIF NJHSBOUT BHSFFE &BDI XBT BTTJHOFE B .PSNPOFTDPSU BOEUPHFUIFSUIFZTFUPGGXFTU8JUIJOBNJMF -FFDBMMFEUIFPSEFS i(ALTª$OªYOURªDUTY wXIFSFVQPOUIF.PSNPONJMJUJBNFO QPTTJCMZXJUIBTTJTUBODF GSPN /BUJWF "NFSJDBOT LJMMFE UIF FOUJSF HSPVQ BNPVOUJOH UP VOBSNFE NFO XPNFO BOEDIJMESFO 8IFOSFQPSUTPGUIFNBTTBDSFSFBDIFEUIFSFTUPGUIFDPVOUSZ JUXBTXJEFMZCFMJFWFE UP IBWF CFFO DBSSJFE PVU PO UIF PSEFST PG .PSNPO 1SFTJEFOU "RIGHAMª 9OUNG /P TFSJPVT MFHBM JOWFTUJHBUJPO FWFS UPPL QMBDF IPXFWFS BOE NPTU PG UIF QFSQFUSBUPST MBZMPXJOSFNPUFEFTFSUPVUQPTUT*OEVFDPVSTF :PVOHCPXFEUPOBUJPOBMQSFTTVSF -FFXBTFYDPNNVOJDBUFEJO BSSFTUFEJO BOEEXECUTEDCZmSJOHTRVBE JO.PVOUBJO.FBEPXTPO.BSDI -FFT WFSTJPO PG FWFOUT XBT RVJUF EJGGFSFOU )F DMBJNFE UP IBWF BDUFE BT B MPZBM TFSWBOU PG UIF $IVSDI OPU UP IBWF BDUVBMMZ LJMMFE BOZPOF UP IBWF HJWFO #SJHIBN :PVOHUIFOBNFTPGBMMJOWPMWFE BOEUPIBWFCFFONBEFBTDBQFHPBU *U XBT EVSJOH IJT ZFBST PO UIF SVO BMCFJU JO BOTXFS UP B SFRVFTU GSPN #SJHIBN :PVOH UIBU-FFTFUVQUIFmSTUFERRYTFSWJDFBDSPTTUIF$PMPSBEP)FBSSJWFEIFSF JO XJUIKVTUUXPPGIJTFJHIUFFOXJWFTTUJMMTUBOEJOHCZIJN-FFJOJUJBMMZVUJMJ[FE UISFFCPBUTBCBOEPOFECZ+PIO8FTMFZ1PXFMMCFGPSFCVJMEJOHIJTPXOCPBU $PMP SBEP CJHFOPVHIUPDBSSZGPVSXBHPOT5IFCPBUXBTTXFQUBDSPTTUIFSJWFSJOCPUI EJSFDUJPOTCZUIFDVSSFOUBOEUIFOUPXFECBDLVQTUSFBNUPJUTTUBSUJOHQPJOU UIFGBSF XBTQFSXBHPO aQFSBOJNBM .BOZMFHFOETTVSSPVOE-FFTZFBSTJOUIF(SBOE$BOZPO5BMFTUIBUIFQMBOUFEUIF QFBDIPSDIBSETPGUIF)BWBTVQBJBSFVOUSVFoUIPVHIIFEJEWJTJUUIFNJOIJTXBOEFS JOHToXIJMFQFSTJTUFOUTUPSJFTPGLOSTªGOLDªMINESIBWFOFWFSCFFOQSPWFE)FTTBJE UPIBWFCFFOJOUIFIBCJUPGEJTBQQFBSJOHGPSEBZTBUBUJNFBOESFUVSOJOHXJUIDBOT mMMFEXJUIHPMEOVHHFUT)JTXJGF&NNBCFMJFWFEIFETUSVDLJUMVDLZ CVUOPOFPGUIF QSPTQFDUPSTXIPGPMMPXFEIFSTVHHFTUJPOTFWFSGPVOEBUIJOH )BVOUJOH QIPUPT PG -FF PO UIF EBZ IF EJFE TIPX B HBVOU PME NBO TJUUJOH PO IJT DPGmO XBJUJOHGPSUIFmSJOHTRVBEoIJEEFOCFOFBUIBCMBOLFUUPQSFWFOUSFQSJTBMT
+EEP WALKING BEYOND 3PENCERS EMPLOYEE BUNKHOUSE AND MORE DERELICT MACHINERY AND AFTER ABOUT A MILE YOULL COME TO THE ACTUAL LAUNCH POINT OF ,EES FAMOUS FERRY )TS A HARD THIRSTY HIKE HOWEVER WITH LITTLE REWARD AT THE FAR END
5)& 30"%#& 58 & & /5)& 3* . 4
]-FFT'FSSZ ©5 *OHN©$OYLE©,EES©,ONELY©$ELL©2ANCH©AT©,EES©&ERRY
-POFMZ%FMM3BODI *OHN ,EE LIVED NOT AT THE FERRY SITE BUT IN THE MUCH MORE CONGENIAL SURROUND INGS OF THE ,ONELY $ELL 2ANCH NESTLED IN A FERTILE CURVE OF THE 0ARIA 2IVER ABOUT A HALF MILE UP FROM THE CONmUENCE "ACK ACROSS THE RIVER FROM THE MODERN BOAT RAMP MAKE AN IMMEDIATE RIGHT ON THE UNPAVED ROAD TO REACH THE 0ARK 3ERVICES REPLANTED APPROXIMATION OF ,EES ORCHARDS RICH WITH APPLE PEAR PLUM AND PEACH TREES (IS ORIGINAL LOG CABIN STANDS NOT FAR BEYOND CONSTRUCTED LARGELY OF DRIFTWOOD AND CHINKED WITH THICK RED RIVER MUD 4HE SMALLER ADJACENT BLACKSMITH SHOP WAS ALSO ,EES IT LIES IN THE SHADE OF A LARGE MULBERRY TREE THAT WAS PLANTED TO HELP RAISE SILKWORMS 6ARIOUS OTHER STRUCTURES WERE ADDED BY ,EES SUCCESSORS SOME OF WHOM NOW LIE IN THE TRANQUIL LITTLE CEMETERY AT THE END OF THE ROAD 5NINHABITED SINCE THE S ITS lELDS DOTTED WITH DERELICT GREEN FARM MACHIN ERY THE RANCH THESE DAYS HAS THE FEEL OF A DESERT OASIS AND IS A POPULAR HALT FOR MIGRATORY BIRDS &OR SERIOUS BACKPACKERS ,ONELY $ELL 2ANCH MARKS THE END OF AN EPIC FOUR TO SIX DAY HIKE THAT TRACES THE FULL LENGTH OF THE 0ARIA #ANYON STARTING AT THE 7HITE (OUSE TRAILHEAD OFF 53 BETWEEN +ANAB AND 0AGE 4HE CANYON FORMS PART OF THE 0ARIA #ANYONn6ERMILION #LIFFS 7ILDERNESS ITSELF ENCOMPASSED WITHIN 6ERMILION #LIFFS .ATIONAL -ONUMENT
7FSNJMJPO$MJGGT
5)& 30"%#& 58 & & /5)& 3* . 4
&OR THE lRST THIRTY MILES WEST OF -ARBLE #ANYON 53 ! CURVES ALONG THE FOOT OF THE 6ERMILION #LIFFS )N .OVEMBER IN ONE OF HIS lNAL ACTS AS PRESIDENT "ILL #LINTON DESIGNATED A VAST ACRE EXPANSE THAT ENCOMPASSES THE CLIFFS THE 0ARIA 0LATEAU ABOVE THEM AND 0ARIA #ANYON AS 6ERMILION #LIFFS .ATIONAL -ONUMENT !DMINISTERED BY THE "UREAU OF ,AND -ANAGEMENT FROM ITS OFlCE IN 3T 'EORGE 5TAH WWWAZBLMGOV THE MONUMENT IS NOT EXPECTED TO CHANGE SIGNIlCANTLY OR TO OPEN UP FOR TOURISM IN THE FORESEEABLE FUTURE !LTHOUGH THE ROAD ITSELF IS ALL BUT FEATURELESS AND THE DESERT ALMOST ENTIRELY DEVOID OF VEGETATION THE DRIVE ALONG THE 6ERMILION #LIFFS IS SUPERBLY DRAMATIC AS THE SOARING SANDSTONE WALLS GLOW A MAGNIlCENT RED AT SUNRISE AND SUNSET (OWEVER ONLY A COUPLE OF SMALL MOTELS OFFER ANY INCENTIVE TO GET OUT OF YOUR CAR 9OUD NEVER KNOW THE 'RAND #ANYON WAS OUT THERE TO THE EAST SLICING THROUGH THE -ARBLE 0LATFORM UNLESS YOU DETOUR TWO MILES DOWN A DIRT ROAD THAT LEAVES THE HIGHWAY A COUPLE OF HUNDRED YARDS SOUTH OF ,EES &ERRY ,ODGE AT ROADS END LIES THE "ADGER #ANYONn-ARBLE #ANYON /VERLOOK
-FFT'FSSZ-PEHF
]7FSNJMJPO$MJGGT
"OASTING GREAT VIEWS FROM A PRETTY LOCATION THREE MILES WEST OF -ARBLE #ANYON ,ODGE THE SMALLER ,EES &ERRY ,ODGE COMPLEX DATES FROM OR WWWLEESFERRYLODGECOM "ESIDES OFFERING APPEALINGLY RUSTIC GUEST CABINS OF VARYING SIZES THE LODGE IS CENTERED ON THE FRIENDLY LITTLE 6ERMILION #LIFFS "AR 'RILLE WHICH SERVES GOOD FOOD WASHED DOWN WITH AN EXTRAORDINARY RANGE OF BOTTLED BEERS AND INCLUDES ITS OWN mY SHOP FOR ANGLERS
$MJGG%XFMMFST-PEHF /RIGINALLY BUILT IN AS A MOCK ANCIENT RUIN AND RUN THESE DAYS AS A STANDARD ISSUE 7ESTERN MOTEL THE #LIFF $WELLERS ,ODGE OR WWWLEESFERRYCOM OCCUPIES ANOTHER DRAMATIC SPOT AMID THE JUMBLED ROCKS A HALF DOZEN MILES BEYOND ,EES &ERRY ,ODGE ,IKE ITS NEIGHBORS ITS GEARED PRIMARILY TOWARD RIVER RUNNERS WHO mOCK TO ITS RESTAURANT AND ADJOINING ATTRACTIVE SHADY PATIO EARLY IN THE MORNING -ONn4HURS nAM nPM &RIn3UN AMnPM
)PVTF3PDL7BMMFZ
53 ! ROUNDS THE SOUTHERNMOST PROMONTORY OF THE 6ERMILION #LIFFS JUST UNDER TWENTY MILES OUT FROM .AVAJO "RIDGE .OT FAR BEYOND AS THE HIGHWAY BEGINS ITS ARROW STRAIGHT RUN ACROSS THE DESERT TOWARD THE +AIBAB -OUNTAINS A DIRT ROAD SETS OFF SOUTH BETWEEN MILE MARKERS AND )T LEADS TO THE (OUSE 2OCK "UFFALO 2ANCH HEADQUARTERS FOR A HUNDRED STRONG HERD OF BUFFALO THAT ROAMS FREE ACROSS (OUSE 2OCK 6ALLEY )N RECENT YEARS THE BUFFALO HAVE ALSO WANDERED UP ONTO THE +AIBAB 0LATEAU AND ALONG THE .ORTH 2IM SO YOUR CHANCES OF SPOTTING THEM ARE PRETTY MINIMAL YOUD HAVE TO BE DESPERATE INDEED TO THINK IT WORTH DRIVING THE SLOW lFTY MILE ROUND TRIP TO ROADS END AND BACK !NOTHER lVE MILES UP THE HIGHWAY A NORTHBOUND GRAVEL ROAD JUST PAST MILE MARKER n SIGNED TO 6ERMILION #LIFFS .ATIONAL -ONUMENT IT CLOSELY PARAL LELS (OUSE 2OCK 7ASH n LEADS A FEW MILES TO THE #ONDOR 2ELEASE 3ITE 4HIS
%PNÓOHVF[BOE&TDBMBOUF
]7FSNJMJPO$MJGGT
IS MISSION CONTROL FOR THE 0EREGRINE &UND EFFORT TO REPOPULATE !RIZONA WITH WILD CONDORS SEE P ! ROADSIDE PAVILION COMMANDS VIEWS OF THE PRECISE SPOT HIGH ON THE 6ERMILION #LIFFS WHERE THE lRST SIX BIRDS WERE RELEASED FROM A GLORIlED COOP ON $ECEMBER !S THE ABUNDANT GUANO STAINS PROVE THEY AND THEIR SIBLINGS REGULARLY RETURN hHOMEv 7ITH POWERFUL BINOCULARS YOU MAY WELL SEE THEM PERCHED ATOP THE CLIFFS OR mYING FAR OVERHEAD THOUGH YOURE MORE LIKELY TO GET CLOSE UP VIEWS AT 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE ON THE 3OUTH 2IM .OT FAR BEYOND THE RELEASE SITE TURNOFF 53 ! REACHES THE +AIBAB -OUN TAINS AND BEGINS THE lNAL ELEVEN MILE CLIMB TO *ACOB ,AKE ! PANORAMIC VIEWPOINT PAST THE lRST FEW SWITCHBACKS BEFORE THE ROAD PLUNGES INTO THE THICK FORESTS OF THE +AIBAB 0LATEAU COMMANDS A SUPERB PROSPECT OF THE CLIFFS THE -ARBLE 0LATFORM AND THE SLENDER CREASE OF -ARBLE #ANYON
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HANKS TO ITS SHEER REMOTENESS THE !RIZONA 3TRIP n THE ANOMALOUS AREA OF NORTHERN !RIZONA SANDWICHED BETWEEN THE .ORTH 2IM AND THE 5TAH STATE LINE n REMAINS ONE OF THE LEAST VISITED REGIONS IN THE 3OUTHWEST .ONETHELESS IT MAKES A VERY REWARDING DESTINATION FOR TRAVELERS EAGER TO GET THE FULL 'RAND #ANYON EXPERIENCE 7RITER 7ALLACE 3TEGNER DESCRIBED IT AS hSCENICALLY THE MOST SPECTACULAR AND HUMANLY THE LEAST USABLE OF ALL OUR REGIONS x AS TERRIBLE AND BEAUTIFUL WASTELAND AS THE WORLD CAN SHOW v AND MUCH OF IT REMAINS ABSOLUTE WILDERNESS !LMOST NO ONE EVER SEES THE COLOSSAL CANYON FORMED BY +ANAB #REEK WHICH SPLITS THIS REGION IN TWO WHILE THE MILLION ACRE 'RAND #ANYONn0ARASHANT .ATIONAL -ONUMENT CREATED IN MAKES NO PROVISION FOR TOURISM WHATSOEVER 6IRTUALLY NO ROADS CROSS THE 3TRIP AND THOSE THAT DO HOLD JUST A FEW TINY SECRETIVE AND OFTEN SEMI DERELICT HAMLETS !LTHOUGH YOU HAVE TO PASS THIS WAY IN ORDER TO COMPLETE A FULL CIRCUIT OF THE 'RAND #ANYON MOST VISITORS HERE ARE SIMPLY RACING BETWEEN THE CANYON AND SOUTHERN 5TAHS NATIONAL PARKS &EW ARE AWARE THEYRE MISSING PERHAPS THE MOST SPECTACULAR SECTION OF 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL 0ARK THE 4UWEEP DISTRICT HOME TO TWO STUNNING OVERLOOKS AT 4OROWEAP 0OINT THAT PROVIDE A RARE OPPORTUNITY TO SEE THE CANYONS INNER MOST CORE 4HE !RIZONA 3TRIP HAS NEVER HELD MORE THAN lVE THOUSAND INHABITANTS 2OUGHLY THAT MANY +AIBAB 0AIUTE WERE LIVING HERE n MOSTLY AS NOMADS BUT ALSO FARMING WHAT LITTLE ARABLE LAND IT HOLDS n WHEN -ORMON EXPLORERS ARRIVED IN THE S AND SET UP RANCHES WHEREVER THEY FOUND WATER "Y DECIMATED BY DISEASES AND INEVITABLE CONmICTS THE 0AIUTE POPULATION HAD DWINDLED TO JUST 4HE RANCHERS THEMSELVES LARGELY GAVE UP BY THE MID TWENTIETH CENTURY AND ONLY A COUPLE OF THEIR SETTLEMENTS &REDONIA AND #OLORADO #ITY EVER GREW TO ANY SIGNIlCANT SIZE "Y ANY LOGIC YOUD EXPECT THE 3TRIP TO BELONG TO 5TAH RATHER THAN !RIZONA )N -ORMON LEADER "RIGHAM 9OUNG CALLED ON #ONGRESS TO GRANT THE -ORMONS ALL TERRITORY THAT LAY WITHIN TWO DEGREES OF LATITUDE OF EITHER SIDE OF THE #OLORADO 2IVER THE BOUNDARY WAS DRAWN INSTEAD ALONG THE TH PARALLEL AND THAT REMAINS THE 5TAH !RIZONA BORDER !T LEAST FOUR ATTEMPTS TO INCORPORATE THE 3TRIP INTO 5TAH FAILED LARGELY BECAUSE MANY OF THE -ORMONS WHO CHOSE TO REMAIN IN THIS REMOTE REGION WERE RENEGADES WHO DIDNT ACCEPT THEIR CHURCHS DOCTRINAL REVERSAL ON MULTIPLE MARRIAGES #ONTINUED EFFECTIVE ISOLATION FROM BOTH THE 5TAH AND !RIZONA STATE AUTHORITIES SUITS THESE DIE HARD POLYGAMISTS JUST lNE /THER THAN PLENTY OF TIME AND A RELIABLE VEHICLE THE PRINCIPAL REQUIREMENT NEEDED TO EXPLORE THE !RIZONA 3TRIP IS A GOOD MAP n IDEALLY THE ",- !RIZONA 3TRIP &IELD /FlCE 6ISITOR -AP
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4HIRTEEN MILES WEST OF &REDONIA JUST OFF !: 0)0% 302).' .!4)/.!, -/.5-%.4 DAILY AMnPM FREE UNDER AGE WWWNPSGOVPISP MARKS THE SITE OF ONE OF THE FEW WATER SOURCES ON THE !RIZONA 3TRIP .OT SURPRISINGLY OWNERSHIP OF THIS PRECIOUS SPRING HAS BEEN MUCH CONTESTED )T HAS SPENT TIME IN BOTH 5TAH AND !RIZONA AND BELONGED TO THREE DIFFERENT COUNTIES )N -ORMON RANCHER $R *AMES 7HITMORE APPROPRIATED IT FROM THE 0AIUTES WHO KNEW IT AS -U TUM WA VA OR $RIPPING 2OCK !FTER 0AIUTE AND .AVAJO RAIDERS KILLED 7HITMORE THREE YEARS LATER "RIGHAM 9OUNG ORDERED THE -ORMONS TO WITHDRAW (OWEVER THEY RETURNED IN AND ENCLOSED THE SPRING IN A FORT NAMED 7INSOR #ASTLE FOR ITS lRST SUPERINTENDENT 9OUNG PERSONALLY DEDICATED THE FORT IN A CEREMONY ATTENDED BY *OHN 7ESLEY 0OWELL )N THE FEDERAL GOVERNMENT ESTABLISHED THE +AIBAB 0AIUTE )NDIAN 2ESERVATION WHICH MEASURED EIGHTEEN MILES BY TWELVE MILES AND INCLUDED THE SPRING .O PROVISION WAS MADE CONCERNING ITS WATER HOWEVER AND -ORMON CATTLE RANCHERS CONTINUED TO BRING THEIR HERDS HERE 4HE SITUATION WAS FURTHER CONFUSED IN WHEN BOTH SPRING AND FORT WERE DESIGNATED AS 7INSOR #ASTLE .ATIONAL -ONUMENT THANKS TO FOUNDING 0ARK 3ERVICE $IRECTOR 3TEPHEN -ATHER WHO HAD DISCOVERED ITS CHARMS AFTER HIS CAR BROKE DOWN NEARBY 4HE IDEA WAS OSTENSIBLY TO PRESERVE THE FORT AS A hMEMORIAL TO 7ESTERN PIONEER LIFE v THOUGH THE DECLARATION OWED AS MUCH TO THE SPRINGS POSITION MIDWAY BETWEEN THE 'RAND #ANYON AND :ION .ATIONAL 0ARK AS TO ANY INTRINSIC INTEREST "ITTER LEGAL DISPUTES BETWEEN CATTLEMEN 0AIUTES AND THE 0ARK 3ERVICE DRAGGED ON FOR ANOTHER lFTY YEARS BEFORE WATER RIGHTS TO 0IPE 3PRING WERE LARGELY GRANTED TO THE 0AIUTES "Y THEN OVERGRAZING HAD REDUCED THE SURROUNDING RICH GRASSLAND TO VIRTUAL DESERT ,OCAL HISTORY DEBATES ENDURE 4HE 0AIUTE ARGUE THAT THE FORT WAS BUILT TO PROTECT NOT SO MUCH VALIANT -ORMON SETTLERS FROM )NDIANS AS DElANT POLYGAMISTS FROM THE GOVERNMENT AND THAT THE -ORMON PRACTICE OF RECRUITING 0AIUTE INTO INDENTURED SERVITUDE DIFFERED LITTLE FROM THE EARLIER .AVAJO AND 5TE TRADITION OF KIDNAPPING THEM INTO SLAVERY #ONSIDERABLE CARE HAS BEEN TAKEN TO ENSURE THE MONUMENT REmECTS BOTH 0AIUTE AND -ORMON HISTORY 4HE VISITOR CENTER DOUBLES AS AN INTERESTING MUSEUM WHOSE STAFF CAN ALSO ADVISE YOU ON LOCAL ROAD CONDITIONS 4HE FORT ITSELF A SHORT WALK AWAY REMAINS IN GOOD CONDITION AND IS OPEN FOR HALF HOURLY GUIDED TOURS THAT ILLUMINATE EARLY RANCHING LIFE !N !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOAN RUIN SAID TO LIE BENEATH ITS OUTBUILDINGS HAS YET TO BE EXCAVATED 7ITH ITS SMALL HERD OF LONGHORN CATTLE SCATTERED OLD WAGONS AND FARMING IMPLEMENTS AND LONG RANGE VIEWS ACROSS THE DESERT THE MONUMENT IS A PLEASANT ENOUGH SPOT THOUGH YOURE UNLIKELY TO SPEND MUCH TIME HERE ! QUARTER MILE NORTH OF THE MONUMENT THE 0AIUTE RUN A SMALL CAMPGROUND WHERE SITES RUN PER TENT OR FOR 26S !T THE PEAK OF THE S )NDIAN GAMING BOOM THEY ALSO HAD A CASINO BUT THATS NOW DEFUNCT
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ACCOMMODATION OR DINING OPTIONS THIS IS A SURREAL LOOKING PLACE LAID OUT ON A SMALL GRID OF EXTREMELY BROAD LARGELY UNPAVED STREETS THAT SEE VERY FEW CARS BUT PLENTY OF GINGHAM PINAFORES /N EVERY CORNER STAND MASSIVE HOMES BUILT TO SHELTER MULTIPLE WIVES AND THEIR PREDICTABLY LARGE FAMILIES AND SINCE MUCH OF THE MALE POPULATION IS EITHER ON THE RUN OR HAS BEEN HOUNDED OUT OF TOWN SEE BOX ABOVE YOURE LIKELY TO SEE ONLY FEMALE FACES !S YOUNG WOMEN ARE FORBIDDEN TO CUT THEIR HAIR BEFORE MARRIAGE MOST mAUNT EXTRAORDINARY SWEPT BACK COIFS %VERYONE WILL ASSUME YOURE A MAGAZINE JOURNALIST HOPING TO WRITE A SENSATIONAL ARTICLE ABOUT POLYGAMY AND THERES NO ENCOURAGEMENT TO LINGER
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TO THE #OLORADO 2IVER !S THE CROW mIES THE OVERLOOK LIES LESS THAN SIXTY MILES WEST OF "RIGHT !NGEL 0OINT THE .ORTH 2IM TOURISM HUB "Y ROAD HOWEVER ITS NEARLY MILES AS YOU lRST MUST CIRCUMVENT +ANAB #ANYON BY HEADING ALL THE WAY NORTH TO &REDONIA )S IT WORTH IT !N UNEQUIVOCAL YES n 4OROWEAP IS NOT JUST ANOTHER OVERLOOK (OWEVER DONT UNDERESTIMATE THE AMOUNT OF TIME AND EFFORT IT TAKES TO GET THERE %VEN A mEETING VISIT REQUIRES AT LEAST SIX HOURS OF LABORIOUS DRIVING ON GRAVEL ROADS 4HERE ARE TWO MAIN ROUTES THE EASTERN 3UNSHINE 2OUTE WHICH STARTS ON !: SEVEN MILES WEST OF &REDONIA AND RUNS FOR MILES SOUTHWEST AND THE MORE SCENIC BUT LONGER WESTERN -AIN 3TREET 2OUTE WHICH RUNS NINETY MILES FROM THE HEART OF 3T 'EORGE 5TAH BUT IS CLOSED BY SNOW FOR MUCH OF THE WINTER 7HAT FOLLOWS IS THE OBVIOUS EAST WEST ROAD TRIP ITINERARY STARTING FROM &REDONIA AND RETURNING VIA 3T 'EORGE ! THIRD POSSIBILITY THE SIXTY MILE #LAY HOLE 2OUTE FROM #OLORADO #ITY IS NOT RECOMMENDED SINCE ITS LESS CONVENIENT FOR ONWARD TRAVEL AND LIABLE TO BECOME IMPASSABLE NOT ONLY DURING WET WEATHER BUT ALSO THANKS TO DRIFTING SAND DURING PROLONGED DRY SPELLS 7HEN OPEN n TYPICALLY YEAR ROUND IN THE CASE OF THE 3UNSHINE 2OUTE n THESE ROADS ARE GENERALLY PASSABLE IN STANDARD VEHICLES &OUR WHEEL DRIVE IS ONLY NECESSARY IN SPOTS OVER THE LAST FEW MILES IF YOU DONT HAVE 7$ YOU CAN ALWAYS PARK AND HIKE THE lNAL STRETCH TO THE OVERLOOKS "E SURE TO ASK LOCALLY ABOUT CURRENT DRIVING CONDITIONS BEFORE YOU SET OFF THE BEST SOURCES ARE THE VISITOR CENTERS IN &REDONIA AND *ACOB ,AKE AT 0IPE 3PRING AND ON THE .ORTH 2IM )N ADDITION CARRY ALL THE FOOD WATER AND GAS YOU MIGHT NEED PLUS A SPARE TIRE AND EMERGENCY REPAIR KIT FOR YOUR VEHICLE
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5VXFFQ ! SIGN ABOUT SIX MILES SHORT OF 4OROWEAP 0OINT WELCOMES VISITORS TO THE 4UWEEP !REA OF 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL 0ARK 7HILE THE CONSPICUOUS ROADSIDE RANGER
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STATION IMMEDIATELY BEYOND IS UNREACHABLE BY PHONE AND NOT OPEN SET HOURS A RANGER IS IN RESIDENCE YEAR ROUND THOUGH NOT ALWAYS AVAILABLE ON SITE &ROM THIS POINT TO THE OVERLOOK IS BY FAR THE ROUGHEST STRETCH OF THE DRIVE !LLOW ABOUT TWO HOURS TO REACH THE RANGER STATION FROM THE HIGHWAY THEN ANOTHER HALF HOUR TO NURSE YOUR PROTESTING VEHICLE TO THE CANYON RIM ! MILE BEFORE ROADS END YOULL REACH THE 0ARK 3ERVICES EXPOSED PRIMITIVE CAMPGROUND WHICH OFFERS TEN lRST COME lRST SERVED SITES 2ESERVATIONS ARE ACCEPTED FOR THE LONE GROUP SITE &IRES ARE ALLOWED BUT YOU HAVE TO BRING YOUR OWN lREWOOD AND YOULL lND COMPOSTING TOILETS BUT NO WATER .O FEE IS CHARGED FOR DAY USE OR OVERNIGHTS AT THE CAMPGROUND BUT YOU DO NEED TO BUY A BACKCOUNTRY CAMPING PERMIT IN ADVANCE SEE P )NCIDENTALLY ALTHOUGH THE 0AIUTE TERMS 4UWEEP AND 4OROWEAP ARE USED MORE OR LESS INTERCHANGEABLY IN THESE PARTS STRICTLY SPEAKING 4OROWEAP WHICH MEANS hDRY VALLEY v IS APPLIED TO A VALLEY THE GEOLOGIC FAULT THAT CREATED THAT VALLEY A GEOLOGIC STRATA WITHIN THE LARGER CANYON AND AN OVERLOOK WHILE 4UWEEP MEAN ING hTHE EARTH v REFERRED lRST TO A -ORMON SETTLEMENT IN THE VALLEY AND NOW TO THIS DISTRICT OF THE PARK
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4HREE MILES EAST OF 53 ALONG A LOOP ROAD TWELVE MILES NORTH OF &LAGSTAFF 35.3%4 #2!4%2 6/,#!./ .!4)/.!, -/.5-%.4 CENTERS ON THE YOUNGEST OF THE 3AN &RANCISCO VOLCANOES )TS MOST RECENT ERUPTION IN !$ HAD A PROFOUND IMPACT ON THE LOCAL POPULATION AND ECONOMY 4HICK DEPOSITS OF ASH FOR MILES AROUND OPENED UP PREVIOUSLY INFERTILE LAND TO CULTIVA TION ACCELERATING n IF NOT TRIGGERING n A LAND RUSH THAT THREW DIFFERING .ATIVE !MERICAN PEOPLES INTO CONTACT AND COMPETITION FOR THE lRST TIME *OHN 7ESLEY 0OWELL NAMED 3UNSET #RATER FOR ITS MULTICOLORED CONE WHICH SWELLS FROM A BLACK BASE THROUGH REDS AND ORANGES TO A YELLOW TINGED CREST 5NFORTUNATELY ITS SHIFTING CINDERS ARE TOO UNSTABLE TO ALLOW HIKERS TO CLIMB TO THE RIM )NSTEAD THE ONE MILE ,AVA &LOW 4RAIL AT ITS BASE OFFERS AN UP CLOSE LOOK AT THE JAGGED BLACK LAVA THAT STREAMED OUT ACROSS THE DESERT WHILE THE STEEPER ONE MILE ,ENOX #RATER 4RAIL ASCENDS A LESSER CONE NEARBY !LL IS EXPLAINED AT THE VISITOR CENTER JUST OFF THE HIGHWAY DAILY AMnPM WWWNPSGOVSUCR OPPOSITE THE &OREST 3ERVICES "ONITO CAMPGROUND LATE -AY TO MID /CT 4HE MONUMENT ADMISSION FEE PER PERSON ALSO COVERS ENTRY TO 7UPATKI
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! DOZEN MILES NORTH OF 3UNSET #RATER ALONG THE SAME LOOP ROAD SEE ABOVE 750!4+) .!4)/.!, -/.5-%.4 COMPRISES A CLUSTER OF SEVERAL DISTINCT AND EXCEPTIONALLY WELL PRESERVED ANCIENT RUINS DRAMATICALLY POISED BETWEEN THE VOLCANOES AND THE DESERT 4HE RUINS EVINCE A PERIOD IN WHICH DIFFERENT TRIBAL GROUPS LIVED SIDE BY SIDE IN SEEMING HARMONY 3OME TIME AFTER THE 3UNSET #RATER ERUPTION n THOUGH NOT NECESSARILY BECAUSE OF IT AS ARCHEOLO GISTS FORMERLY BELIEVED n THE EXISTING 3INAGUA PEOPLE WHO SURELY WITNESSED THE EXPLOSION WERE JOINED BY MANY OTHERS INCLUDING !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOANS AND THE (OHOKAM /NCE THE RICH NEW SOIL HAD BEEN EXHAUSTED AROUND YEARS LATER THEY ALL MOVED ON 4O GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR VISIT ITS BEST TO START AT THE MONUMENTS EXCEL LENT VISITOR CENTER DAILY SUMMER AMnPM WINTER AMnPM PER PERSON INCLUDES ADMISSION TO 3UNSET #RATER WWWNPSGOVWUPA )F YOURE ARRIVING FROM 3UNSET #RATER ITS JUST PAST THE TURNOFF FOR THE 7UKOKI
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PUEBLO (ERE YOULL lND INFORMATIVE DISPLAYS ON THE HISTORY AND CULTURE OF THE 3INAGUA AND THEIR NEIGHBORS PLACING THEM lRMLY WITH THE CONTEXT OF THE TRADI TIONAL MIGRATION STORY OF THEIR MODERN DESCENDANTS THE (OPI ! PAVED LOOP TRAIL DESCENDS FROM THE VISITOR CENTER TO THE MAIN THREE STORY HUNDRED ROOM PUEBLO OF 7UPATKI hLONG CUT HOUSEv WHICH BLENDS INTO A SANDSTONE HILLOCK THAT CONCEALS A NUMBER OF NATURAL CAVES 4HE SITES MOST INTRIGUING FEATURES HOWEVER LIE A BIT FARTHER ALONG &IRST COMES WHAT LOOKS LIKE AN AMPHITHEATER A WALLED CIRCULAR PLAZA WHOSE PURPOSE REMAINS UNKNOWN "EYOND IT IS AN OVAL BALL COURT THE NORTHERNMOST SUCH COURT EVER FOUND 3IMILAR ARENAS THROUGHOUT #ENTRAL !MERICA WERE USED FOR A GAME n PART RITUAL PART SPORT n IN WHICH PLAYERS TRIED TO PROPEL A RUBBER BALL THROUGH A STONE HOOP HIGH ON A WALL USING THEIR KNEES AND ELBOWS ALONE MUCH LIKE MODERN BASKETBALL ALTHOUGH LOSERS OF THIS CONTEST MAY HAVE BEEN SACRIlCED !LONGSIDE THE BALL COURT CRACKS IN THE GROUND FORM A NATURAL BLOWHOLE THROUGH WHICH AIR IS EITHER SUCKED OR BLOWN DEPENDING ON PRESSURE AND TEMPERATURE 4HE AUDIBLE hBREATHINGv OF THE EARTH MADE THIS A SACRED SHRINE FOR 7UPATKIS ANCIENT INHABITANTS !T THE END OF ITS OWN MILE SPUR ROAD THE 7UKOKI PUEBLO TAKES ITS NAME FROM A MODERN (OPI WORD MEANING hBIG HOUSEv 2EMINISCENT OF THE CASTLELIKE STRUCTURES AT (OVENWEEP IN SOUTHERN 5TAH ITS WITHIN SIGHT OF A PROCESSION OF ROUNDED CINDER CONES BUT WAS PROBABLY POSITIONED FOR ITS COMMANDING PROS PECT OF THE 0AINTED $ESERT TO THE NORTH AND EAST 7INDOWS IN ITS CENTRAL TOWER WHICH TRACES THE CONTOURS OF A RED ROCK OUTCROP AND IS BUILT WITH BRICKS OF THE SAME MATERIAL POINT IN ALL DIRECTIONS ARCHEOLOGISTS BELIEVE SOME ARE PRECISELY ALIGNED TO THE POSITION OF SUNRISE AT SIGNIlCANT MOMENTS IN THE ANNUAL CALENDAR !S THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO 2IVER LIES A FULL lVE MILES DISTANT PUEBLO INHABITANTS MUST HAVE BEEN DESPERATELY SHORT OF WATER 4HE LOOP ROAD THROUGH 3UNSET #RATER 6OLCANO AND 7UPATKI REJOINS 53 TWENTY MILES SOUTH OF #AMERON SEE P /UTCROPS ALONG ITS lNAL FEW MILES HOLD MORE PUEBLOS INCLUDING 4HE #ITADEL WHICH OCCUPIES A HILLTOP 7HILE ITS INTERIOR
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7!,.54 #!.9/. .!4)/.!, -/.5-%.4 IS ANOTHER 3INAGUA SITE AS SPECTACULAR IN ITS OWN WAY AS 7UPATKI )T LIES JUST SOUTH OF ) TEN MILES EAST OF &LAGSTAFF OR EIGHT MILES FROM DOWNTOWN VIA 2OUTE "ETWEEN !$ AND THIS SHALLOW CANYON WAS HOME TO A THRIVING COMMUNITY OF 3INAGUA WHO LIVED IN SMALL FAMILY GROUPS RATHER THAN COMMUNAL PUEBLOS ,ITERALLY HUNDREDS OF THEIR CLIFF DWELLINGS REMAIN NESTLED BENEATH OVERHANGS ALONG THE CANYON WALLS 4HEY SIMPLY WALLED OFF ALCOVES WHERE SOFTER ROCK HAD ERODED AND PUT UP PARTITIONS TO MAKE SEPARATE ROOMS .O SINGLE DWELLING IS ON THE SAME SCALE AS AT 7UPATKI AND ONLY A HANDFUL ARE ACCESSIBLE TO VISITORS BUT COLLECTIVELY THEY MAKE AN IMPRESSIVE SPECTACLE ! LARGE SCENIC WINDOW IN THE VISITOR CENTER DAILY *UNEn!UG AMnPM -ARCHn-AY 3EPTn.OV AMnPM $ECn&EB AMnPM WWWNPSGOVWACA OFFERS AN EXCELLENT OVERVIEW 7ALNUT #REEK WAS LONG AGO DIVERTED TO PROVIDE &LAGSTAFF WITH DRINKING WATER BUT YOU CAN IMAGINE HOW FERTILE THIS VALLEY MUST HAVE BEEN WHEN THE 3INAGUA lRST ARRIVED 4REES CLING TO THE POROUS ROCK SHADING THE ANCIENT DWELLINGS AND THE VEGETATION THICKENS DOWN TO A VALLEY mOOR DENSE WITH BLACK WALNUT AND OAK TREES /NLY VISITORS WHO ARRIVE MORE THAN AN HOUR BEFORE CLOSING TIME ARE PERMIT TED TO SET OFF DOWN THE MILE LONG )SLAND ,OOP 4RAIL AS THE DWELLINGS ARE AT THEIR MOST PHOTOGENIC IN LATE AFTERNOON THAT CALLS FOR CAREFUL TIMING &OLLOWING A STEEP DESCENT FROM THE VISITOR CENTER THE TRAIL CROSSES A NARROW CAUSEWAY TO A FEW ACCESSIBLE STRUCTURES ON A ROCKY ISTHMUS HIGH ABOVE A GOOSENECK IN THE CREEK .OTE THE 4 SHAPED DOORWAYS WHICH COULD ONLY BE ENTERED HEADlRST AND CEILINGS BLACKENED BY SMOKE FROM GENERATIONS OF lRES 7HILE PETROGLYPHS ADORN OTHER VISIBLE RUINS NONE REMAIN ALONG THE TRAIL /FFERING A LESS STRENUOUS WALK THE SEPARATE 2IM 4RAIL SKIRTS THE EDGE OF THE CANYON TO A PICNIC AREA AND SURFACE RUINS IN THE DISSIMILAR PUEBLO STYLE CONSIST ING OF LARGE CLUSTERS OF ROOMS "ETWEEN *UNE AND !UGUST EACH YEAR RANGERS LEAD TWO TO THREE HOUR GUIDED HIKES TO LESSER KNOWN AND OTHERWISE INACCESSIBLE SITES WITHIN THE MONUMENT 4UES 3AT 3UN AT AM CALL TO CONlRM 4HE PARK OFFERS NO ACCOMMODATION AND ONLY MINIMAL SNACK FOOD
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!LTHOUGH &LAGSTAFF IS WIDELY REGARDED AS THE MAIN GATEWAY FOR VISITS TO THE 3OUTH 2IM 7),,)!-3 MILES WEST IS IN FACT THE CLOSEST INTERSTATE TOWN TO THE NATIONAL PARK 7HILE IT LACKS ITS NEIGHBORS PIZZAZZ 7ILLIAMS IS A NICE ENOUGH LITTLE PLACE lLLED WITH 2OUTE nERA MOTELS AND DINERS BUT RETAINING A CERTAIN INDIVIDUALITY DESPITE THE CONSTANT STREAM OF TOURISTS 0ART OF ITS CHARM LIES IN ITS SETTING CUPPED IN A HIGH GRASSY VALLEY AMID PINE COVERED HILLS 4HE HIGH EST VISIBLE PEAK IS FT "ILL 7ILLIAMS -OUNTAIN TO THE SOUTH NAMED FOR PIONEER TRAPPER AND MOUNTAIN MAN "ILL 7ILLIAMS n 4HE TOWN WAS FOUNDED THIRTY YEARS AFTER 7ILLIAMS DEATH ,IKE &LAGSTAFF 7ILLIAMS ORIGINALLY BASED BOTH ITS ARCHITECTURE AND ECONOMY ON THE SURROUNDING PONDEROSA FORESTS 3INCE HOWEVER WHEN THE 3ANTA &E
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2AILROAD lRST LINKED IT WITH THE CANYON RIM SIXTY MILES DUE NORTH 7ILLIAMS HAS LIVED OFF TOURISM 4HOUGH THE RAIL LINE SHUT DOWN IN IT REOPENED IN AS THE 'RAND #ANYON 2AILWAY PROMOTED AS A FUN RIDE RATHER THAN A SERIOUS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION -OST PEOPLE WHO SPEND THE NIGHT IN 7ILLIAMS ARE HERE TO TAKE THE MORNING TRAIN UP TO THE CANYON
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"SSJWBMBOEJOGPSNBUJPO !MTRAKS 3OUTHWEST #HIEF TRAINS CALL IN TWICE DAILY AT 7ILLIAMS *UNCTION THREE MILES EAST OF TOWN HEADING EAST AT AM AND WEST AT PM 4HE 'RAND #ANYON 2AILWAY (OTEL SEE BELOW RUNS FREE CONNECTING SHUTTLE BUSES INTO TOWN 3EE P FOR SCHEDULE AND FARE INFORMATION FOR THE 'RAND #ANYON 2AILWAY OR WWWTHETRAINCOM WHICH SETS OFF DAILY AT AM FROM THE DOWNTOWN 7ILLIAMS $EPOT 7ILLIAMS VISITOR CENTER NEAR THE DEPOT AT 7 2AILROAD !VE DAILY SUMMER AMnPM WINTER AMnPM OR SERVES AS AN ENTERTAINING LOCAL HISTORY MUSEUM AND OFFERS A RANGE OF BROCHURES INCLUDING DETAILS OF A TOWN WALKING TOUR AND DRIVING TOURS IN THE +AIBAB .ATIONAL &OREST -ARVELOUS -ARVS 4OURS OR WWW MARVELOUSMARVCOM RUNS DAILY GUIDED VAN TOURS UP TO THE 3OUTH 2IM THE ADULT RATE INCLUDES PARK ADMISSION
"DDPNNPEBUJPO 4HE LARGE 'RAND #ANYON 2AILWAY (OTEL RANKS AS 7ILLIAMS LEADING ACCOMMODA TION THOUGH YOULL lND PLENTY OF ALTERNATIVES 6INTAGE MOTELS AND THE ODD "" LINE DOWNTOWNS MAIN THOROUGHFARES WHILE THE NATIONAL CHAINS CONGREGATE NEAR THE INTERSTATE EXITS AT EITHER END OF TOWN .ORTH OF TOWN THE 2ED ,AKE (OSTEL CATERS TO BUDGET TRAVELERS
4HOSE INTERESTED IN CAMPING CAN CHOOSE BETWEEN TWO +/! CAMP GROUNDS n #IRCLE 0INES THREE MILES EAST AND 'RAND #ANYON OR CLOSED .OVn&EB lVE MILES NORTH n OR ASK AT THE #HALENDER 2ANGER 3TATION 7 2OUTE FOR DETAILS ABOUT SECLUDED SUMMER ONLY MOUNTAIN SITES IN THE +AIBAB .ATIONAL &OREST
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7ILLIAMS HOLDS DElNITE ROMANTIC APPEAL AS THE VERY LAST TOWN ALONG 2OUTE TO HAVE BEEN BYPASSED BY ) 5NTIL /CTOBER WHEN "OBBY 4ROUP OF 'ET 9OUR +ICKS /N 2OUTE FAME FRONTED A CLOSING CEREMONY THE ONLY STOPLIGHT ON THE INTERSTATE BETWEEN #HICAGO AND ,OS !NGELES STOOD OUTSIDE THE 7ILLIAMS VISITOR CENTER -UCH OF THE FORMER 2OUTE FRONTAGE REMAINS UNCHANGED AND SEVERAL QUIRKY ANTIQUE STORES SELL BOTH VINTAGE MEMORABILIA AND .ATIVE !MERICAN CRAFTS AND JEWELRY "UT WHILE ITS FUN TO EXPLORE DOWNTOWN ALONG THE TWO PARALLEL ONE WAY STREETS n EASTBOUND 2OUTE AND WESTBOUND 2AILROAD !VENUE n AN HOUR LONG MORNING OR EVENING STROLL IS PROBABLY ENOUGH 7ILLIAMS IS NOT REALLY A PLACE TO SPEND THE DAY &OR RAIL ENTHUSIASTS THE 7ILLIAMS $EPOT HOLDS THE SLOWLY EXPANDING 'RAND #ANYON 2AILWAY -USEUM DAILY AMnPM FREE )N ADDITION TO MYRIAD OLD PHOTOS INCLUDING SEVERAL GREAT HAND TINTED ONES THE MUSEUM IS BURSTING WITH VINTAGE TOOLS AND IMPLEMENTS AS WELL AS CASES OF ANTIQUE ARMRESTS AND WINDOW CATCHES )N DUE COURSE IT HOPES TO UNVEIL A FT MODEL OF THE ROUTE UP TO THE CANYON (IGHLIGHTS ON 7ILLIAMS ANNUAL EVENTS CALENDAR INCLUDE THE ,ABOR $AY RODEO AND 2ENDEZVOUS $AYS ON -EMORIAL $AY WEEKEND WHEN LOCALS DRESS UP AS BUCKSKINNED PIONEERS
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3TRETCHED ALONG A BRIEF ARC OF 2OUTE THAT JUTS NORTH OF ) TWENTY MILES WEST OF 7ILLIAMS THE RANCHING COMMUNITY OF !3( &/2+ IS SMALLER LESS PICTURESQUE AND FAR LESS INVOLVED IN CATERING TO TRAVELERS /N THE WESTERN FRINGES OF THE +AIBAB .ATIONAL &OREST ITS DOWNTOWN FEATURES BUILDINGS CONSTRUCTED WITH THE YELLOWISH LOCAL SANDSTONE RATHER THAN TIMBER 7HILE MAJOR MOTEL CHAINS HAVENT BOTHERED TO SET UP SHOP IN !SH &ORK THERE ARE A FEW HOMESPUN ALTERNATIVES INCLUDING THE LARGE PINK !SH &ORK )NN AT THE WEST END OF TOWN NEAR ) EXIT 9OULL ALSO lND A +/! CAMPGROUND /LD 2OUTE AND A COUPLE OF BASIC DINERS IN THE THICK OF WHAT FEW THINGS !SH &ORK CAN CLAIM
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ALL REmECT AN INDIFFERENT SAMENESS 4HE WACKIEST OF THE LOCAL DINERS HAS TO BE $ELGADILLOS 3NOW #AP % 2OUTE WHERE EVERY MALT OR BURGER COMES WITH A SIDE ORDER OF OUTRAGEOUS PUNS AND PUT ONS )F YOURE JUST LOOKING FOR A SQUARE MEAL THE #OPPER #ART IN THE FORMER RAILROAD STATION SERVES A STANDARD ALL !MERICAN MENU
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7ITH A POPULATION EXCEEDING THIRTY THOUSAND +).'-!. SIXTY lVE MILES WEST OF 3ELIGMAN AND THIRTY MILES SHORT OF THE #ALIFORNIA BORDER RANKS SECOND TO &LAGSTAFF AMONG !RIZONAS ) TOWNS ,AS 6EGAS LIES A MERE HUNDRED MILES NORTHWEST ON 53 AND AS ALL TRAFlC BOUND THERE FROM 0HOENIX OR THE 'RAND #ANYON IS OBLIGED TO PASS THIS WAY +INGMAN WELCOMES ENOUGH TOURISTS TO KEEP MORE THAN THIRTY MOTELS BUSY YEAR ROUND 4HE BEST THAT CAN BE SAID FOR IT HOWEVER IS THAT ITS NOT LIFELESS NOR IS IT PARTICULARLY UGLY n WITH THE EXCEPTION OF A COMMERCIAL SPRAWL BESIDE THE RAILROAD TRACKS NORTH OF THE INTERSTATE )TS JUST A HUMDRUM PIT STOP WITH A TINGE OF 2OUTE AMBIENCE #URVING ALONGSIDE THE TRACKS +INGMANS MAIN STREET IS NAMED IN HONOR OF NATIVE SON !NDY $EVINE THE ACTOR WHO DROVE THE EPONYMOUS 3TAGECOACH IN *OHN &ORDS MOVIE !S THE TOWNS PROMOTIONAL BROCHURE PUTS IT h4HERE MUST BE SOMEBODY WHO HASNT HEARD OF !NDY $EVINE BUT THAT PERSON SURE DOESNT LIVE IN +INGMANv 4O LEARN ABOUT HIS CAREER (UALAPAI CULTURE AND BASKETWORK AND SUNDRY OTHER ASPECTS OF -OHAVE #OUNTY HERITAGE STOP BY THE -OHAVE -USEUM OF (ISTORY !RTS 7 "EALE 3T -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN nPM ADULTS FREE UNDER AGE 4HE YEAR INCIDENTALLY WAS A BIG ONE FOR +INGMAN #AROLE ,OMBARD AND #LARK 'ABLE WERE MARRIED HERE ON -ARCH
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"DDPNNPEBUJPO !S YOURE UNLIKELY TO SPEND MORE THAN ONE NIGHT IN +INGMAN OR TO LINGER HERE IN THE MORNING ITS RANGE OF ORDINARY INEXPENSIVE MOTELS SHOULD MEET YOUR NEEDS /THERS PREFER CAMPING IN THE BEAUTIFUL HILLS lVE MILES SOUTHEAST OF TOWN AT COUNTY RUN (UALAPAI -OUNTAIN 0ARK WHICH ALSO HOLDS THE (UALAPAI -OUNTAIN ,ODGE 2ESORT CLOSED -ON
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ESTLED DEEP WITHIN THE 'RAND #ANYON AT THE HEART OF THE (AVASUPAI )NDIAN 2ESERVATION IS (AVASU #ANYON ONE OF THE MOST SPELLBIND INGLY BEAUTIFUL PLACES IN THE SOUTHWESTERN 53 4HOUGH IT LIES A MERE MILES WEST OF THE NATIONAL PARK HEADQUARTERS ON THE 3OUTH 2IM THE ONLY APPROACH IS FROM THE SOUTHWEST n A ROAD TRIP OF NEARLY TWO HUNDRED MILES /NCE YOU LEAVE THE INTERSTATE THE LAST NINETY MILES CROSS THE ENDLESS #OCONINO 0LATEAU &ROM ROADS END THE EIGHT MILE (UALAPAI 4RAIL PROVIDES THE ONLY ROUTE DOWN INTO THE CANYON ITSELF 4HOSE WHO BRAVE THIS DESERT HIKE ARE REWARDED BY A STUNNING OASIS OF TURQUOISE WATERFALLS AND LUSH VEGETATION A 3HANGRI LA THAT HAS BEEN HOME FOR CENTURIES BEYOND RECORD TO THE SAME SMALL GROUP OF .ATIVE !MERICANS 4HE (AVASUPAI OWE THEIR EXISTENCE HERE TO A GEOLOGIC mUKE !LTHOUGH THE CANYON RECEIVES ONLY NINE INCHES OF RAIN EACH YEAR ALMOST ALL THE WATER THAT FALLS IN THE SURROUNDING THREE THOUSAND SQUARE MILES FUNNELS DOWN THIS ONE NARROW GORGE CREATING THE YEAR ROUND TORRENT OF (AVASU #REEK /NE S ANTHROPOLOGIST DESCRIBED (AVASU #ANYON AS hTHE ONLY SPOT IN THE 5NITED 3TATES WHERE NATIVE CULTURE HAS REMAINED IN ANYTHING LIKE ITS PRISTINE CONDITIONv 3INCE THEN TOURISM HAS BECOME THE MAINSTAY OF THE TRIBAL ECONOMY BUT VISITOR NUMBERS ARE KEPT DELIBERATELY LOW AT AROUND PER YEAR 4HE (AVASUPAI HAVE REJECTED ALL SUGGESTIONS OF BUILDING A ROAD n OR EVEN A TRAMWAY n DOWN INTO THE CANYON TO MINIMIZE THE IMPACT ON THE TRADITIONAL WAY OF LIFE )NSTEAD THE lVE HUNDRED OR SO TRIBAL MEMBERS EARN THEIR KEEP BY FERRYING NON HIKERS UP AND DOWN THE TRAIL ON PACK MULES AND HORSES AND OPERATING A CREEKSIDE CAMPGROUND AND A COMFORTABLE LODGE IN THE VILLAGE OF 3UPAI 7HILE VISITORS SHOULD NOT EXPECT SWEEPING VIEWS OF THE 'RAND #ANYON n OR TO HAVE MUCH INTERACTION WITH RESIDENTS n FOR SPECTACULAR DESERT SCENERY AND SHEER ROMANCE THE (AVASUPAI RESERVATION IS BEYOND COMPARE 4HE ONE CRUCIAL FACTOR TO BEAR IN MIND IF YOURE PLANNING A TRIP IS THAT YOU MUST HAVE AN ADVANCE RESERVATION FOR EITHER THE LODGE OR CAMPGROUND 4HATS EASIER SAID THAN DONE BETWEEN -AY AND /CTOBER THE LODGE IS ALMOST INVARIABLY BOOKED MONTHS IN ADVANCE AND THE CAMPGROUND IS USUALLY FULL
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!RCHEOLOGISTS HAVE IDENTIlED THE EARLIEST INHABITANTS OF (AVASU #ANYON AS THE #OHONINA ,IKE THE !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOANS THEIR NEIGHBORS TO THE EAST THEY ARE THOUGHT TO HAVE OCCUPIED THE REGION ROUGHLY BETWEEN !$ AND $URING THAT PERIOD A 9UMAN SPEAKING GROUP WHO CALL THEMSELVES THE 0AI n A WORD THAT SIMPLY MEANS hPEOPLEv n MADE THEIR lRST APPEARANCE IN THE 3OUTH WEST 3O LITTLE IS KNOWN ABOUT THE #OHONINA THAT NO ONE KNOWS WHETHER THE 0AI WERE THEIR COUSINS THEIR DESCENDANTS OR AN ENTIRELY NEW GROUP 7HAT IS CERTAIN HOWEVER IS THAT BY A COUPLE OF HUNDRED YEARS AFTER THE #OHONINA ABANDONED THE CANYON A BAND OF 0AI HAD TAKEN THEIR PLACE 4HE 0AI AS A WHOLE HAD BY THIS TIME QUARRELED AND SPLIT TO FORM THE (UALAPAI h0EOPLE OF THE 4ALL 0INESv OF NORTHWEST !RIZONA AND THE 9AVAPAI h!LMOST 0EOPLE v WHO NO LONGER QUITE DESERVED TO BE REGARDED AS PEOPLE WHO SETTLED ALONG THE #OLORADO FARTHER SOUTH )T WAS A GROUP OF (UALAPAI FAMILIES WHO MOVED INTO THE CANYON AND BECAME THE (AVASUPAI n THE h0EOPLE OF THE "LUE GREEN 7ATERv !LTHOUGH NOT RELATED TO ANY OF THE VARIOUS 0UEBLO PEOPLES THE (UALAPAI ESTABLISHED CLOSE LINKS WITH THE (OPI AND THE :UNI FROM WHOM THEY EVENTUALLY ACQUIRED THE ART OF RAISING SHEEP HORSES AND CROPS SUCH AS PEACHES $ESPITE NAMING THEMSELVES FOR THE TURQUOISE RIVER THAT WATERED THE lELDS THE (AVASUPAI ONLY LIVED ALONG THE CANYON mOOR IN SUMMER IN HOUSES OF HIDE COVERED BRANCHES )N WINTER THE CANYON MADE A COLD MISERABLE HOME LACKING BIG GAME AND lREWOOD AND RECEIVING AS LITTLE AS lVE HOURS OF SUNLIGHT PER DAY 4HE (AVASUPAI WOULD INSTEAD MOVE UP ONTO THE PLATEAU TO HUNT DEER ELK AND ANTELOPE CREATING ARTIlCIAL WATERING HOLES TO LURE THEM CLOSER 4HEIR TERRITORY COVERED PERHAPS MILLION ACRES EXTENDING FAR BEYOND THE REGION NOW OCCU PIED BY 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE SOUTH TO THE 3AN &RANCISCO 0EAKS NEAR MODERN &LAGSTAFF AND AS FAR NORTH AS WHATS NOW 4UBA #ITY !RIZONA )N *UNE SHORTLY BEFORE THE $ECLARATION OF )NDEPENDENCE WAS SIGNED IN 0HILADELPHIA THE (AVASUPAI WELCOMED THEIR lRST WHITE VISITOR &ATHER &RAN CISCO 4OMÉS 'ARCÏS A MISSIONARY FROM 3AN 8AVIER DEL "AC NEAR 4UCSON WHO MADE SEVERAL PIONEERING EXPEDITIONS INTO THE FRONTIER 7EST WAS GREETED WITH lVE DAYS OF FEASTING $ESCRIBING THE 'RAND #ANYON AS A hCALABOOSE OF CLIFFS AND CANYONS v HE DUBBED IT THE 0UERTO DE "UCARELI IN HONOR OF THE VICEROY WHO HAD DISPATCHED HIM MORE ENDURINGLY HE WAS THE lRST TO NAME THE 2ÓO #OLORADO 'ARCÏS HIMSELF TRAVELED EASTWARD ALONG THE 3OUTH 2IM TO MEET THE (OPI WHILE THE REST OF HIS EXPEDITION BLAZED A TRAIL TO #ALIFORNIA WHERE THEY FOUNDED 3AN &RANCISCO 4HE (AVASUPAI REMAINED UNDISTURBED FOR ANOTHER EIGHTY YEARS UNTIL !NGLO PROSPECTORS AND SURVEYORS BEGAN TO ENTER THE REGION #ONmICT AROSE IN WHEN TO ENCOURAGE THE SPREAD OF THE RAILROADS #ONGRESS GRANTED THE !TLANTIC AND 0ACIlC 2AILROAD COMPANY OWNERSHIP OF SWATHES OF LAND ADJOINING ITS TRACKS ACROSS NORTHERN !RIZONA .ATIVE RESISTANCE SOON ESCALATED INTO A DISASTROUS WAR AFTER WHICH THE DEFEATED (UALAPAI SPENT SEVERAL YEARS CONlNED TO A RESERVA TION NEAR %HRENBERG MILES DOWNSTREAM ALONG THE #OLORADO "ECAUSE THE (AVASUPAI DID NOT PARTICIPATE IN THE lGHTING THEY WERE ALLOWED TO REMAIN IN THEIR TRADITIONAL TERRITORY THEN KNOWN TO 53 AUTHORITIES AS #ATARACT #ANYON /NLY THEN DID THEY BEGIN TO REGARD THEMSELVES AS A SEPARATE TRIBE RATHER THAN JUST ANOTHER BAND OF (UALAPAI )N NEGOTIATIONS OVER THE EXTENTS OF A PERMANENT (AVASUPAI RESERVATION THE GOVERNMENT WAS AS USUAL ONLY PREPARED TO ACKNOWLEDGE .ATIVE !MERICAN OWNERSHIP OF LAND THAT HELD PERMANENT SETTLEMENTS AND CULTIVATED lELDS !REAS
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USED FOR HUNTING GATHERING OR EVEN GRAZING WERENT RECOGNIZED ESPECIALLY IF USE WAS SHARED BY MORE THAN ONE BAND &EARFUL OF BEING REMOVED THE (AVASUPAI SETTLED IN FOR A TINY PLOT AT THE BOTTOM OF (AVASU #ANYON n AT A MERE ACRES IT AMOUNTED TO LESS THAN ONE SQUARE MILE 2ESTRICTED TO A FRACTION OF THEIR FORMER RANGE THEY WERE OBLIGED TO FARM WHAT LITTLE LAND THEY WERE GRANTED AS INTENSIVELY AS POSSIBLE ! CENTURY OF HARDSHIP WAS TO FOLLOW DURING WHICH THE (AVASUPAI REPEAT EDLY PETITIONED TO HAVE THEIR RESERVATION ENLARGED 3UFFERING GREAT SPIRITUAL UNCERTAINTY BOTH THE (AVASUPAI AND (UALAPAI TOOK PART IN THE 'HOST $ANCE MOVEMENT IN THE S WHEN .ATIVE !MERICANS THROUGHOUT THE 7EST JOINED IN TRANCELIKE RITUALS DESIGNED TO ENSURE THAT WHITE MEN WOULD VANISH FROM THE LAND AND THE OLD WAYS WOULD RETURN 4HE (AVASUPAI ALSO BRIEmY ADOPTED THE RAINMAKING KACHINA DANCES OF THE (OPI UNTIL A CATASTROPHIC mOOD ON *ANUARY DESTROYED THEIR VILLAGE WHICH THEN STOOD HALF A MILE FROM ITS CURRENT SITE 4HE CREATION OF 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL 0ARK IN PLACED FURTHER RESTRICTIONS ON (AVASUPAI USE OF TRADITIONAL LANDS /NE EARLY SUPERVISOR AVOWED THAT THE 'RAND #ANYON hSHOULD BE PRESERVED FOR THE EVERLASTING PLEASURE AND INSTRUCTION OF OUR INTELLIGENT CITIZENS AS WELL AS THOSE FROM FOREIGN COUNTRIES ) THEREFORE DEEM IT JUST AND NECESSARY TO KEEP THE WILD AND INAPPRECIABLE )NDI ANS FROM OFF THE 2ESERVEv 0ARK PROPOSALS DURING THE S TO BUILD A DIRECT ROAD ALONG THE 3OUTH 2IM AND DOWN INTO (AVASU #ANYON WERE PROBABLY ONLY THWARTED BY THE #RASH OF SUCH SUGGESTIONS WOULD RESURFACE REPEATEDLY IN SUBSEQUENT DECADES !LTHOUGH #OCONINO .ATIONAL &OREST SOUTH OF THE RESERVATION TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE (OPI WORD FOR THE (AVASUPAI WHICH ALSO ANACHRONISTICALLY EXPLAINS HOW THE #OHONINA GOT THEIR NAME TRIBAL MEMBERS COULD ONLY GRAZE ANIMALS THERE BY ANNUAL PERMIT 4HE (AVASUPAI SURVIVED BY SIMPLY DISOBEYING WHATEVER UNENFORCEABLE REGULATIONS OUTSIDERS SOUGHT TO IMPOSE AND CONTINUING TO SPEND WINTERS UP ON THE PLATEAU )N DUE COURSE MANY (AVASUPAI FOUND JOBS IN 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE WHILE TOURISM TO (AVASU #ANYON ITSELF BECAME AN IMPORTANT ELEMENT IN THE TRIBAL ECONOMY .ONETHELESS THE 0ARK 3ERVICE AND THE (AVASUPAI REMAINED AT LOGGERHEADS $URING THE S THE PARK SURREPTITIOUSLY BOUGHT UP DEFUNCT MINING CLAIMS IN THE CANYON AND THEN OPENED ITS OWN CAMPGROUND n THE SAME ONE THAT REMAINS IN USE TODAY UNDER (AVASUPAI CONTROL n ON A FORMER (AVASUPAI BURIAL GROUND -EANWHILE THE (AVASUPAI PETITIONED TIRELESSLY FOR THE RETURN OF THEIR LANDS )T MAY SOUND STRANGE NOW BUT THEIR GREATEST ALLY WAS 2EPUBLICAN 3ENATOR "ARRY 'OLDWATER WHILE RANGED AGAINST THEM WERE SUCH ENVIRONMENTAL GROUPS AS THE 3IERRA #LUB AND &RIENDS OF THE %ARTH WHO HAD YET TO BE CONVINCED THAT .ATIVE !MERICANS COULD LOOK AFTER WILDERNESS LANDS AS WELL AS THE 0ARK 3ERVICE $ESPITE HAVING AGREED IN TO ACCEPT MILLION AS lNAL COMPENSATION FOR THEIR LOST LANDS THE (AVASUPAI lNALLY WON THEIR BATTLE IN 4HE RESER VATION WAS EXPANDED BY ACRES AND THE (AVASUPAI WERE ALSO AWARDED RIGHTS OVER ACRES OF TRADITIONAL USE LAND THAT LAY WITHIN THE PARK 4HIS WAS THE LARGEST TRACT OF LAND EVER RETURNED TO .ATIVE !MERICANS BUT IT CAME WITH THE PROVISO THAT IT MUST REMAIN FOREVER WILD NO MINING LOGGING OR MANUFACTUR ING WAS TO BE PERMITTED ON THE TRADITIONAL USE LANDS AND NO DAMS OR RAILROADS COULD BE BUILT 4HE SETTLEMENT CAME JUST IN TIME AS THE 'RAND #ANYON REGION SOON EXPE RIENCED A BOOM IN URANIUM MINING WITH MORE THAN CLAIMS lLED IN THE !RIZONA 3TRIP OVER THE ENSUING DECADE )N %NERGY &UELS .UCLEAR
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WAS GRANTED RIGHTS TO DEVELOP A URANIUM MINE IN THE +AIBAB .ATIONAL &OREST NEAR 2ED "UTTE WHICH THOUGH IT LIES OUTSIDE THE RESERVATION IS SACRED TO THE (AVASUPAI $ESPITE FEARS THAT THE MINE MIGHT CONTAMINATE (AVASU #REEK (AVASU #ANYON AND ULTIMATELY THE #OLORADO ITSELF FEDERAL COURTS BLOCKED (AVASUPAI ATTEMPTS TO STOP IT #ANYON -INE WAS BUILT BUT NEVER WENT INTO OPERATION THANKS TO A DROP IN PRICES CAUSED BY A WORLDWIDE GLUT OF URANIUM )T NOW BELONGS TO THE )NTERNATIONAL 5RANIUM #ORPORATION WHICH DESPITE DENYING RUMORS THAT THE MINE MIGHT SOON BE REACTIVATED INSISTS THAT THE LOW PRICE OF URANIUM IS THE ONLY FACTOR HOLDING IT BACK 4HE OTHER MAJOR THREAT FACING THE (AVASUPAI IS THAT ANY FUTURE TOURIST DEVELOP MENT ON THE 3OUTH 2IM n ALONG THE LINES OF THE ABORTIVE #ANYON &OREST 6ILLAGE SCHEME SEE P n COULD DEPLETE THE WATER TABLE FOR HUNDREDS OF MILES AROUND AND RENDER (AVASU #REEK DRY
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4HE WELL TRODDEN ROUTE IS BUSY THROUGHOUT THE DAY WITH SMALL SUPPLY TRAINS OF MULES AND HORSES /NCE ON THE VALLEY mOOR IT FOLLOWS THE BED OF A DRY WASH BETWEEN RED ROCK CLIFFS THAT SLOWLY BUT INEXORABLY RISE TO FORM THE mANKING WALLS OF DEEP NARROW (UALAPAI #ANYON 7HILE THE SAND UNDERFOOT IS SO THICK THAT IT SPLASHES AT EVERY STEP THE POTENTIAL FOR mASH mOODS IS CLEAR FROM THE MUCH SCOURED ROCKS TO EITHER SIDE )N PLACES MIGHTY BOULDERS ALL BUT BLOCK THE PATH WHILE SOLITARY COTTONWOODS REACH UP TOWARD THE THIN STRIP OF SKY OVERHEAD !TOP THE %SPLANADE 0LATEAU STRAIGHT AHEAD THE PALE STARK BUTTE OF -OUNT 3INYALA REPEATEDLY LOOMS INTO VIEW !FTER ALMOST SEVEN MILES THE TRAIL REACHES ITS INTERSECTION WITH (AVASU #ANYON UNTIL THE DISASTROUS mOOD OF SEE P THIS WAS THE SITE OF 3UPAI VILLAGE !LL OF (AVASU #ANYON WAS FORMERLY KNOWN AS #ATARACT #ANYON BUT NOW THAT OLD NAME ONLY APPLIES TO ITS DRY SEGMENT TO THE RIGHT OF THE JUNCTION 7HATEVER YOU DO DONT TURN RIGHT n IT TOOK THREE WEEKS TO RESCUE A DEHYDRATED CAMPER WHO DID SO IN 4HAT SAID HOWEVER WHAT LITTLE TOURIST TRAFlC THE (AVASUPAI RECEIVED A CENTURY AGO ARRIVED ALONG THE LATTER ROUTE ON THE 4OPOCOBA 4RAIL WHICH REACHES #ATARACT #ANYON VIA ,EE #ANYON AT THE END OF A THIRTY MILE DIRT ROAD FROM 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE !LTHOUGH THE (AVASUPAI STILL MAKE OCCASIONAL USE OF THAT TRAIL RECREATIONAL HIKERS ARE NO LONGER PERMITTED TO DO SO "EAR LEFT AT THE TRAIL JUNCTION INSTEAD AT A DENSE CLUSTER OF SMALL TREES 4HE SOUND OF RUSHING WATER SOON SIGNALS THE EMERGENCE OF (AVASU #REEK FROM HIDDEN SPRINGS IN THE ROCK "EFORE LONG ITS mOWING THROUGH THE PARCHED LAND SCAPE IN ALL ITS BLUE GREEN SPLENDOR AT AN AMAZING AVERAGE OF MILLION GALLONS PER DAY .OT FAR BEYOND YOULL CROSS A LOW RISE AND FOLLOW IRRIGATION DITCHES ACROSS THE MEADOW THAT HOLDS THE MODERN VILLAGE OF 3UPAI WATCHED OVER BY TWO RED ROCK PILLARS ATOP THE HIGH CANYON WALL ON THE FAR SIDE +NOWN AS THE 7IGLEEVA THESE TWIN SENTINELS n ONE OF WHICH IS CONSIDERED TO BE MALE THE OTHER FEMALE n ARE REGARDED AS GUARDIAN SPIRITS OF THE (AVASUPAI
4VQBJ 4HOUGH IN A SUPERB NATURAL SETTING n A WIDE mAT CLEARING SURROUNDED ON ALL SIDES BY FORBIDDING WALLS OF RED SANDSTONE n THE VILLAGE OF 350!) IS NOT IN ITSELF ATTRACTIVE 4HE (AVASUPAI WERE ONLY OBLIGED TO BUILD A YEAR ROUND SETTLEMENT IN THE CANYON BY THE LOSS OF THEIR LANDS ON THE PLATEAU ABOVE SEE P AND THIS SITE WAS THEIR SECOND CHOICE AFTER THE lRST PROVED PRONE TO mOODING 4HIS LOCATION HAS ALSO SUFFERED REPEATED mOOD DAMAGE INCLUDING FOUR MAJOR INUNDATIONS SINCE )T THEREFORE COMPRISES JUST A SCATTERING OF BASIC TIMBER FRAME HOUSES AND PREFABRICATED CABINS %VEN THE NAME ITSELF IS A mIMSY FABRICATION 3UPAI IS A MEANINGLESS ABBREVIATION OF (AVASUPAI INVENTED BY THE 53 0OSTAL 3ERVICE /NCE THE (UALAPAI 4RAIL WIDENS INTO WHAT IS JOKINGLY CALLED h-AIN 3TREETv AND SHEPHERDS YOU INTO THE VILLAGE THE lRST BUILDING YOULL REACH HOLDS THE TRIBAL REGISTRATION OFlCE /NLY CAMPERS ARE OBLIGED TO PAY THE RESERVATION ENTRANCE FEE HERE FOR LODGE GUESTS ITS ADDED TO THEIR BILL ! BACK ROOM HOLDS A SMALL MUSEUM DAILY AMnPM WITH A RANDOM BUT REASONABLY INTEREST ING ASSORTMENT OF CENTURY OLD PHOTOGRAPHS AND NEWSPAPER CLIPPINGS 9OULL ALSO lND A CASE OF ASSORTED BASKETS A CRAFT FOR WHICH THE (AVASUPAI ARE FAMOUS ONE BASKET IS COATED WITH PINE PITCH TO MAKE IT WATERPROOF /N THE WHOLE HOWEVER ANCIENT ARTIFACTS HAVE BECOME TOO EXPENSIVE FOR THE MUSEUM TO AFFORD
&IFTY YARDS FARTHER BEYOND THE ONLY POST OFlCE IN THE 53 THAT STILL RECEIVES ITS MAIL BY PACK MULE LIES 3UPAIS DUSTY mYBLOWN PLAZA 4O THE RIGHT BENCHES OUTSIDE THE LONE GROCERY STORE FORM 3UPAIS MAIN SOCIAL CENTER WHERE THE OLDER (AVASUPAI GATHER EACH EVENING 4HE YOUNGER SET TOGETHER WITH A VAST POPULATION OF DOGS ARE MORE LIKELY TO BE FOUND ON THE TERRACE OF THE CAFÏ OPPOSITE /NWARD THE TRAIL SKIRTS THE EDGE OF THE VILLAGE SCHOOL THEN BRANCHES LEFT AND DESCENDS TOWARD THE CAMPGROUND 6ISITORS ARE FORBIDDEN TO WANDER OFF THE MAIN TRAIL INTO THE SURROUNDING FARMLAND
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(AVASUPAI ,ODGE OR LODGE HAVASUPAITRIBE COM SITS SLIGHTLY APART FROM THINGS NEAR THE CANYON WALL BEHIND THE SCHOOL )TS A SIMPLE TWO STORY STRUCTURE BUILT IN THE STYLE OF A FUNCTIONAL MOTEL RATHER THAN A GRAND PARK LODGE WHERE THE PLAIN BUT COMFORTABLE AIR CONDITIONED ROOMS LACK PHONES OR 46S EACH SLEEPS UP TO FOUR PEOPLE !S MENTIONED EARLIER ADVANCE BOOKINGS ARE ESSENTIAL AND ARE HARD TO SECURE BETWEEN -AY AND /CTOBER .OTE THAT THE RESERVATION ENTRANCE FEE IS ADDED TO GUESTS LODGE BILLS WHICH LIKE ALL PRICES ON THE (AVASUPAI RESERVATION ARE SUBJECT TO AN ADDITIONAL lVE PERCENT TRIBAL SALES TAX
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!LTHOUGH THE LODGE HAS A PLEASANT LITTLE GARDEN THE ONLY PLACE TO GET A MEAL IN 3UPAI IS THE 4RIBAL #AFÏ DAILY HOURS VARY FROM AMnPM IN SUMMER TO AMnPM IN WINTER 4HE FOOD IS FAR FROM EXCITING WITH FRIED BREAKFASTS AND A LUNCH OR DINNER OF BEEF STEW FRY BREAD OR BURRITOS MOST ITEMS COST AROUND CASH ONLY MORE IF YOU WANT GRATED CHEESE ON TOP !LCOHOL IS NOT AVAILABLE HERE OR ANYWHERE ON THE RESERVATION 4HE GROCERY STORE ACROSS THE PLAZA SELLS A LIMITED SELECTION OF PROCESSED ITEMS ALL CARRIED IN BY MULE AND PRICED ACCORDINGLY
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3COURED BY mOODS IN THE TRAIL BEYOND .AVAJO &ALLS WAS RECONSTRUCTED HIGHER UP THE CANYON WALL )T NOW CROSSES THE RIVER ON TWO SUCCESSIVE FOOT BRIDGES BEFORE REACHING THE STUPENDOUS TWIN CASCADE OF (AVASU &ALLS 9OULL lRST CATCH SIGHT OF THE FALLS FROM AN OVERLOOK AT RIM LEVEL n AN ABSOLUTELY
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BREATHTAKING VIEW 4HE CREEK FOAMS WHITE AS IT HURTLES OVER A FT CLIFF INTO SHALLOW TERRACES lLLED WITH LIMPID TURQUOISE WATER 4HE SURROUNDING ROCK FORMATIONS ARE COMPOSED OF WATER DEPOSITED LIMESTONE KNOWN AS TRAVERTINE n THE SAME STUFF THAT CLOGS THE INSIDE OF DOMESTIC KETTLES )TS A LIGHT TRAVERTINE COATING ON THE RIVER BED THAT LENDS THE WATER ITS ASTONISHING BLUE GREEN GLOW "E SURE NOT TO WALK ONTO IT IN BARE FEET HOWEVER TRAVERTINE IS HORRENDOUSLY SHARP STUFF )N THE DAYS WHEN IT WAS KNOWN TO THE 0ARK 3ERVICE AS "RIDAL 6EIL &ALLS (AVASU WAS A BROAD CASCADE WHICH EXPLAINS THE SOLIDIlED SHEETS AND CURTAINS OF TRAVERTINE THAT SPAN ITS WIDE BRIM 4HEN A ©5 4HE©TRAVERTINE©POOLS©BELOW©(AVASU©&ALLS mASH mOOD PUNCHED A NOTCH DEAD CENTER THROUGH WHICH THE CASCADE NOW GUSHES TO EITHER SIDE OF A SMALL OUTCROP KNITTED TOGETHER BY A FRAIL COTTONWOOD SAPLING 3IDE TRAILS OFF THE MAIN PATH LEAD DOWN TO AN IDYLLIC SHADED BEACH BESIDE THE LARGEST DEEPEST POOL WHERE THE CEASELESS ROAR MAKES CONVERSATION DIFlCULT BUT SWIMMING IS ALL BUT IRRESISTIBLE $IVIDING THE VARIOUS TERRACES ARE NATURAL TRAVERTINE DAMS PARTIALLY RECONSTRUCTED AFTER THE mOOD USING ARTIlCIAL SUPPORT GROINS NOW BURIED BENEATH NEW DEPOSITS #ROSS TO THE FAR SIDE OF THE CREEK ALONG THESE DAMS TO REACH A GROUP OF PICNIC TABLES IN A COTTONWOOD GROVE AT THE MOUTH OF A SIDE CANYON ! SHORT HORSEBACK EXCURSION FROM 3UPAI TO (AVASU &ALLS COSTS FOR RESERVATIONS CONTACT (AVASUPAI 4OURIST %NTERPRISES SEE P
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HE (UALAPAI )NDIAN 2ESERVATION SPREADS ACROSS ALMOST A MILLION ACRES OF NORTHWEST !RIZONA )TS NORTHERN BORDER COMPRISES A MILE STRETCH OF THE #OLORADO AT THE EXTREME WESTERN END OF THE 'RAND #ANYON FROM WHICH THE RESERVATION EXTENDS SOUTH ON AVERAGE BETWEEN TWENTY AND THIRTY MILES n JUST FAR ENOUGH TO INCLUDE THIRTEEN MILE SECTIONS OF BOTH THE ORIGINAL 2OUTE AND PARALLEL TRANSCONTINENTAL RAILROAD 3TRADDLING THE HIGHWAY IS THE RESERVATIONS ONLY TOWN 0EACH 3PRINGS HOME TO JUST UNDER A THOUSAND OF THE TOTAL (UALAPAI POPULATION OF AROUND 4HE TRIBES MAIN BUSINESS THESE DAYS IS TOURISM n SPECIlCALLY PROMOTING A CLUSTER OF RIM SIDE OVERLOOKS AS 'RAND #ANYON 7EST OR THE 7EST 2IM OF THE 'RAND #ANYON 4HIS CANNY PIECE OF MARKETING IS AIMED SQUARELY AT THE MILLION TOURISTS WHO mOCK TO ,AS 6EGAS EACH YEAR 4HE (UALAPAI RESERVATION IS THE CLOSEST SPOT TO 6EGAS THAT OFFERS CANYON VIEWS AND MOST OF ITS VISITORS ARE lRST TIME DAY TRIPPERS WHO ARE UNAWARE THEYRE NOT SEEING THE CANYON AT ITS BEST !S IT STARTS TO PETER OUT THE CANYON HERE LACKS THE COLOSSAL DEPTH AND WIDTH OF ITS CENTRAL SECTION AND IT HOLDS NONE OF THE TOWERING MESAS BUTTES AND TEMPLES SO CONSPICUOUS FROM THE 3OUTH OR .ORTH RIM VIEWPOINTS .EITHER UNFORTUNATELY FOR THE (UALAPAI IS THERE ANYTHING TO MATCH THE SUMPTUOUS WATERFALLS OF THE NEIGHBORING (AVASUPAI RESERVATION %VEN SO FOR ANYONE NEW TO THE 3OUTHWEST CANYONLANDS THE SO CALLED 7EST 2IM PRESENTS A TREMENDOUS SPECTACLE 4HE (UALAPAI ARE ALSO ENGAGED IN A REMARKABLE BID TO MAXIMIZE THE COMMERCIAL POTENTIAL OF THEIR RIM SIDE HOLD INGS 4HEIR PLANS ARE SO AMBITIOUS ITS HARD TO SAY WHAT WILL TRULY MATERIALIZE BUT THEYVE CLEARLY ATTRACTED A GREAT DEAL OF INVESTMENT AND THE INFRASTRUCTURE FOR EXAMPLE ROAD CONDITIONS IS RAPIDLY BEING TRANSFORMED 4HE (UALAPAI TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE OF THEIR INDEPENDENT STATUS OUTSIDE THE NATIONAL PARK AND FREE FROM FEDERAL REGULATIONS &OR SEVERAL YEARS ALREADY THEYVE BEEN OFFERING TWO UNIQUE ENTICEMENTS FOR VISITORS HELICOPTER mIGHTS THAT DROP BELOW THE RIM AND LAND BY THE RIVER AND ONE DAY WHITE WATER RAFTING TRIPS ON THE #OLORADO !S THIS BOOK WENT TO PRESS THEY WERE ALSO CONSTRUCTING A GLASS BOTTOMED 5 SHAPED 3KYWALK THAT LOOPS OUT FROM THE RIM ATOP A FT CLIFF !S OF LATE THERE WERE JUST A FEW HOLES DRILLED IN THE GROUND BUT THE TRIBE CONlDENTLY PREDICTED THE 3KYWALK WOULD OPEN IN )F ALL GOES ACCORDING TO PLAN IT COULD WELL BECOME ONE OF THE WORLDS MOST FAMOUS TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
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THE (UALAPAI TRIBE !S DETAILED ON P BOTH WERE DESCENDED FROM A GROUP KNOWN AS THE 0AI n h4HE 0EOPLEv n WHO MAKE THEIR lRST APPEARANCE IN THE ARCHEOLOGICAL RECORD SHORTLY AFTER !$ !LSO CALLED THE #ERBAT THE 0AI TRACE THEIR TRIBAL ORIGIN TO 3PIRIT -OUNTAIN FARTHER DOWN THE #OLORADO NEAR MODERN DAY "ULLHEAD #ITY !RIZONA 4HE (UALAPAI LIVED IN THE 3OUTH 2IM FORESTS FROM AROUND n HENCE THEIR NAME h0EOPLE OF THE 4ALL 0INESv 7HILE THEIR ORIGI NAL BASE WAS -ERIWHITICA #ANYON A SIDE CANYON ON THE WESTERN END OF THE CURRENT RESERVATION THE (UALAPAI SEEM TO HAVE SUPPLANTED !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOANS THROUGHOUT MOST OF THE 'RAND #ANYON PROPER IN MANY CASES INHERITING THEIR CRAFT SKILLS SURVIVAL TECHNIQUES AND EVEN THEIR HOMES 4HE (UALAPAI WERE A NOMADIC PEOPLE WHO PLANTED CROPS AND COLLECTED WILD PLANTS ON THE CANYON mOOR IN SUMMER AND SPENT THE WINTER HUNTING ON THE PLATEAUS AND AMID THE MOUNTAINS FARTHER SOUTH 3IGNIlCANT CONTACT WITH OUTSIDERS ONLY CAME IN THE S WHEN PROSPECTORS ESTABLISHED A WAGON ROUTE DEEP INTO (UALAPAI TERRITORY TO PURSUE THE COPPER LEAD SILVER AND GOLD DEPOSITS IN THE #ERBAT -OUNTAINS TO THE WEST #ONmICT SOON ESCALATED INTO THE (UALAPAI 7AR A GUERRILLA STRUGGLE THAT LASTED FROM TO 7ITH A QUARTER OF ALL (UALAPAI MEN KILLED IN THE lGHTING AND THE TRIBE FURTHER DECIMATED BY DISEASE THE SURVIVORS WERE ROUNDED UP AND FORCE MARCHED INTO INTERNMENT AT ,A 0AZ NEAR MODERN DAY 0ARKER !RIZONA 4HEY SOON ESCAPED AND RETURNED TO THEIR ANCESTRAL LANDS A SITUATION FORMALIZED IN n TWO YEARS AFTER THE RAILROAD REACHED 0EACH 3PRINGS n BY THE ESTABLISHMENT OF THEIR OWN RESERVATION &ROM THE S THROUGH THE S (UALAPAI LEADERS VOCIFEROUSLY SUPPORTED PLANS TO CONSTRUCT THE "RIDGE #ANYON $AM ON THEIR RESERVATION TO BLOCK THE 'RAND #ANYON AT ITS NARROWEST POINT 4HE (UALAPAI STOOD TO GAIN NOT ONLY IN TERMS OF CONSTRUCTION JOBS BUT ALSO IN LONG TERM ROYALTIES AND INCREASED VISITATION 7HEN ENVIRONMENTALISTS APPALLED AT THE NOTION OF DAMMING THE CANYON CAMPAIGNED AGAINST THE PROJECT THE (UALAPAI ACCUSED THEM OF hCONDEMNING OUR FAMILIES TO LIFELONG POVERTY BY FORCING US TO KEEP OUR
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HOMELAND A WILDERNESSv 4HE PROPOSALS WERE NEVERTHELESS DEFEATED AND THE (UALAPAI TURNED THEIR ATTENTION EXCLUSIVELY TO PROMOTING TOURISM $EVELOP MENT OF 'RAND #ANYON 7EST STARTED IN AND THE CURRENT GENERATION OF LEADERS NOW SPEAKS OF PRESERVING THE CANYON
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4HE LONE SIZABLE (UALAPAI COMMUNITY 0%!#( 302).'3 STANDS AT THE NORTHERN EXTREMITY OF 2OUTE S SWEEPING CURVE AWAY FROM ) MILES NORTHEAST OF +INGMAN AND MILES NORTHWEST OF 3ELIGMAN %NTIRELY DISTINCT FROM AND NOT CONVENIENTLY CONNECTED WITH 'RAND #ANYON 7EST IT LIES JUST SIX MILES WEST OF THE TURNOFF FOR !RROWHEAD (WY THE ONE ROAD INTO THE (AVASUPAI )NDIAN 2ESERVATION !SIDE FROM 3ELIGMAN ITSELF THERES A DISAPPOINT ING LACK OF KITSCH !MERICANA ALONG 2OUTE BUT DRIVING THE MUCH MYTHOLO GIZED -OTHER 2OAD CROSSING VAST DESERT EXPANSES WITH ONLY THE RAILROAD FOR COMPANY REMAINS AN EVOCATIVE EXPERIENCE 0EACH 3PRINGS IS NO MORE THAN A STRAGGLE OF BUILDINGS ALONG THE HIGHWAY OF WHICH THE MOST PROMINENT BY FAR IS THE SHINY MODERN (UALAPAI ,ODGE WHICH OPENED IN )TS SIXTY GOOD SIZED BEDROOMS ARE BROADLY EQUIVALENT TO WHAT YOUD EXPECT TO lND IN ONE OF THE SLIGHTLY MORE UPMARKET HOTEL CHAINS AS IS THE DINING ROOM OPEN DAILY FOR ALL MEALS OR WWWGRANDCANYONRESORTCOM !PRILn/CT .OVn-ARCH ! DESK IN THE LOBBY SERVES AS THE HEADQUARTERS OF THE (UALAPAI /FlCE OF 4OURISM -ONn&RI AMnPM SAME PHONE AND WEBSITE !S WELL AS ORGAN IZING THE RAFTING TRIPS DESCRIBED BELOW THIS OFlCE SELLS PERMITS FOR VISITS TO 'RAND #ANYON 7EST THOUGH VERY FEW OF THE DRIVERS HEADING THERE COME VIA 0EACH 3PRINGS SEE P BACKCOUNTRY SIGHTSEEING PER DAY AND CAMPING ON $IAMOND #REEK 2OAD INCLUDING SIGHTSEEING FEE SEE OPPOSITE 4HE TRIBES SEPARATE 7ILDLIFE /FlCE -ONn&RI AMnPM A SHORT
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DISTANCE WEST ACROSS THE HIGHWAY ISSUES SIMILAR SIGHTSEEING PERMITS FOR EXPLORATION ELSEWHERE ON THE RESERVATION AS WELL AS PERMITS TO lSH AN EXTRA PER DAY AND HUNT UP TO FOR A TROPHY BIGHORN SHEEP
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4HE UNPAVED TWENTY MILE ROAD THAT LEADS DUE NORTH OF 0EACH 3PRINGS TO THE RIVER AT $IAMOND #REEK IS USED ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY BY RAFTERS EITHER LEAVING THE #OLORADO AFTER A MULTI DAY EXPEDITION OR TAKING ONE OF THE (UALAPAIS DAY TRIPS (OWEVER WITH THE APPROPRIATE PERMIT FROM THE LODGE SEE OPPOSITE YOU CAN SIMPLY DRIVE DOWN FOR A LOOK 4HANKS TO DEEP 0EACH 3PRINGS #ANYON $IAMOND #REEK IS THE ONLY PLACE WITHIN THE 'RAND #ANYON WHERE A ROAD RUNS ALL THE WAY TO THE RIVER DROPPING FT EN ROUTE .OT MUCH OF A ROAD THOUGH 4HE VIEWS OF SOARING CANYON WALLS ON EITHER SIDE ARE GREAT BUT THE SURFACE IS TERRIBLE AND LIABLE TO BE RENDERED IMPASSABLE TO STANDARD CARS BY THE SLIGHTEST RAIN 4HE lNAL TWO MILES ARE OFTEN WASHED OUT ALTOGETHER BY SUMMER mASH mOODS $ESPITE THE DIFlCULT TERRAIN THERE WAS A HOTEL DOWN HERE BETWEEN AND BEFORE ACCESS IMPROVED TO WHATS NOW CALLED THE 3OUTH 2IM 4HESE DAYS THERES JUST A RATHER RUDIMENTARY TRIBAL CAMPGROUND SET BACK FROM THE RIVER AMID THE SAND DUNES PER NIGHT
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/PERATING UNDER THE NAME (UALAPAI 2IVER 2UNNERS OR WWWGRANDCANYONRESORTCOM THE (UALAPAI RUN THE ONLY ONE DAY RAFTING TRIP OFFERED WITHIN THE 'RAND #ANYON n A MILE RIDE FROM $IAMOND #REEK TO 1UARTERMASTER #ANYON THAT INCLUDES SIGNIlCANT STRETCHES OF WHITE WATER .O ROWING OR PADDLING IS INVOLVED INSTEAD THEY USE MOTORIZED PONTOONS CAPABLE OF CARRYING UP TO TEN PASSENGERS AGED OR OVER 4HE PRICE IS A HEFTY !T A POTENTIAL COST OF MORE THAN FOR A FAMILY OF FOUR IT MAKES A VERY EXPENSIVE DAY OUT AND SIMPLY GETTING HERE IN THE lRST PLACE TAKES QUITE A COMMITMENT BUT THE TRIPS ARE NONETHELESS POPULAR WITH THOSE WHO LACK THE TIME FOR A LONGER RIVER TRIP 7HILE THE FUTURE OF THE (UALAPAI TRIPS IS UNCERTAIN SEE BOX OPPOSITE FOR NOW THEY DEPART THE (UALAPAI ,ODGE BY VAN AT AM DAILY BETWEEN MID -ARCH AND MID /CTOBER !FTER A NINETY MINUTE DRIVE DOWN TO THE RIVER AT $IAMOND #REEK YOULL BOARD THE RAFTS AND IMMEDIATELY CONFRONT WHITE WATER 4HE lRST TEN MILES SHOOT THE CANYONS lNAL TEN RAPIDS WITH A MAXIMUM DIFlCULTY RATING OF SEE P &OLLOWING A RIVERSIDE PICNIC LUNCH AND OPTIONAL SHORT HIKE THE TRIP WINDS DOWN WITH A TRANQUIL MILE mOAT TO 1UARTERMASTER #ANYON WHERE A HELICOPTER AWAITS TO mY YOU UP TO THE CANYON RIM )TS A TWO HOUR DRIVE BACK TO 0EACH 3PRINGS WITH A TYPICAL RETURN TIME OF AROUND PM -ANY PASSENGERS OVERNIGHT AT THE LODGE BEFORE OR AFTER THE TRIP
(SBOE$BOZPO8FTU 'RAND #ANYON 7EST ALSO KNOWN AS THE 7EST 2IM IS A REMOTE GROUP OF INNER CANYON VIEWPOINTS ROUGHLY lFTY MILES NORTHWEST OF 0EACH 3PRINGS AND MILES EAST OF ,AS 6EGAS )F YOURE TOURING THE CANYON REGION THE 7EST 2IM IS PERHAPS THE LEAST ESSENTIAL STOP TO INCLUDE ON YOUR ITINERARY ITS SOLE RAISON DÐTRE IS TO GENERATE INCOME FOR THE (UALAPAI BY GRANTING TOURISTS FROM 6EGAS A
GLIMPSE OF THE CANYON ON AN EASY DAY TRIP 4HAT SAID ITS ONLY EASY IF YOU COME BY AIR BY CAR ITS A LONG DETOUR DOWN BARREN DESERT ROADS 7HILE 'UANO 0OINT OFFERS AN UNDENIABLY GREAT PROSPECT OF THE INNER GORGE THE CANYON AS A WHOLE HERE IS SIMPLY NOT AS MAJESTIC AS IN ITS BETTER KNOWN SEGMENTS #OME EXPECTING NATURAL WONDERS AND YOU MAY WELL END UP FEEL ING SHORTCHANGED )NSTEAD THE SUCCESS OF YOUR VISIT WILL PROBABLY DEPEND ON WHETHER THE 3KYWALK IS IN PLACE WHEN YOU ARRIVE AND LIVES UP TO EXPECTATIONS OR WHETHER YOURE PREPARED TO SPEND THE NECESSARY MONEY ON A HAIR RAISING HELICOPTER RIDE TO THE CANYON mOOR
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)N TERMS OF ROAD CONDITIONS THE BEST ROUTES TO 'RAND #ANYON 7EST APPROACH NOT FROM THE EAST VIA 0EACH 3PRINGS BUT FROM THE WEST AND SOUTH )N RECENT YEARS THE (UALAPAI HAVE lNALLY PAVED TWO ROADS TO THE 7EST 2IM 4HE BUSI EST OF THE PAIR 0EARCE &ERRY 2OAD HEADS NORTHEAST FROM 53 THE MAIN HIGHWAY BETWEEN !RIZONA AND ,AS 6EGAS THIRTY MILES NORTH OF +INGMAN AND FORTY MILES SOUTH OF THE (OOVER $AM 4WENTY EIGHT MILES ALONG YOULL TURN EAST ON $IAMOND "AR 2OAD !FTER A ROCKY FOURTEEN MILE CLIMB THROUGH FOOTHILLS SCATTERED WITH *OSHUA TREES AND UP THE 'RAND 7ASH #LIFFS YOULL ENTER THE (UALAPAI RESERVATION THE AIRSTRIP AND 'RAND #ANYON 7EST HEADQUARTERS LIE lVE MILES FARTHER UP THE ROAD !LTERNATIVELY FROM CENTRAL +INGMAN YOU CAN TAKE THE FORTY MILE 3TOCKTON (ILL 2OAD WHICH RUNS DUE NORTH AND 4 JUNCTIONS WITH 0EARCE &ERRY 2OAD SOME MILES SHORT OF 'RAND #ANYON 7EST 4WO MORE ROUTES MAY HAVE BEEN PAVED BY THE TIME YOU READ THIS ASK LOCALLY BEFORE TAKING EITHER OF THEM 4HE MORE LIKELY OF THE TWO IS !NTARES 2OAD WHICH RUNS NORTH FROM 2OUTE EIGHTEEN MILES NORTHEAST OF +INGMAN AND MEETS 0EARCE &ERRY 2OAD AT MUCH THE SAME JUNCTURE AS 3TOCKTON (ILL 2OAD 4HE lFTY MILE "UCK AND $OE 2OAD WHICH HEADS NORTH FROM 2OUTE FOUR MILES WEST OF 0EACH 3PRINGS AND MEETS $IAMOND "AR 2OAD THREE MILES SHORT OF THE END WILL PROBABLY REMAIN UNPAVED AND IMPASSABLE TO STANDARD VEHICLES INDElNITELY )N PLANS WERE ANNOUNCED FOR A VISITOR CENTER AT THE INTERSECTION OF 0EARCE &ERRY 2OAD AND 53 VISITORS WOULD THEN HAVE THE OPTION OF TAKING A SHUTTLE TO 'RAND #ANYON 7EST FOR A PROJECTED ROUND TRIP FARE OF n -ISS ING ,INK 4OURS ALREADY OFFERS DAY TRIPS BY BUS FROM ,AS 6EGAS STARTING AT WWWTMLTOURSCOM
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3EVERAL COMPANIES OFFER DAY TRIP mIGHTS FROM ,AS 6EGAS TO THE RUDIMENTARY AIRSTRIP BESIDE 7EST 2IM HEADQUARTERS 0APILLON 'RAND #ANYON (ELICOPTERS OR WWWPAPILLONCOM -AVERICK (ELICOPTER 4OURS OR WWW MAVERICKHELICOPTERCOM AND 3UNDANCE (ELICOPTERS OR WWWHELICOPTOURCOM OFFER HELICOPTER TOURS START ING AT AROUND WHILE lXED WING OPERATORS INCLUDE 3CENIC !IRLINES OR WWWSCENICCOM WHICH CHARGES WITH THE BUS TOUR DESCRIBED OPPOSITE OR WITH A HELICOPTER mIGHT INTO THE CANYON "OTH 0APILLON AND 3UNDANCE OPERATE HELICOPTER mIGHTS DOWN TO THE #OLORADO FROM THE 'RAND #ANYON 7EST TERMINAL PRICES ARE DETAILED IN THE BOX OPPOSITE
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9OUR lRST IMPRESSION OF 'RAND #ANYON 7EST WILL LIKELY BE OF THE FEATURELESS GRAY DESERT PLATEAU THAT LEADS TO THE EDGE OF THE ABYSS !LL VISITORS REPORT TO A SMALL SINGLE STORY BUILDING TO THE RIGHT OF THE HIGHWAY A FEW HUNDRED YARDS SHORT OF THE RIM WHICH SERVES AS THE TRIBAL HEADQUARTERS FOR TOURS AND PERMITS AND AS THE TERMINAL FOR BOTH THE ADJACENT HELICOPTER PAD AND AIRSTRIP ACROSS THE ROAD 4O REACH THE TWO MAIN VIEWPOINTS FARTHER DOWN THE ROAD YOULL HAVE TO JOIN A (UALAPAI RUN BUS TOUR FROM THE TERMINAL )F YOUVE mOWN IN A PACKAGE TOUR WILL BE INCLUDED IN YOUR OVERALL PRICE OTHERWISE THE VARIOUS PERMUTATIONS AND POSSIBILITIES ARE OUTLINED IN THE BOX ABOVE
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%AGLE 0OINT DOES NOT PERCH ON THE RIM BUT FACES ACROSS A NARROW UNNAMED SIDE CANYON )N THE RIGHT LIGHT n ESPECIALLY MORNING n SHADOWS PLAY ALONG THE KNIFE EDGED SANDSTONE SPUR THAT FORMS THE CANYONS OPPOSITE WALL CALLING TO MIND A MASSIVE EAGLE WITH OUTSTRETCHED WINGS 4HE POINT IS THE SETTING FOR THE 3KYWALK THE GLASS mOORED HORSESHOE SHAPED WALKWAY THAT WILL BECOME THE CENTERPIECE OF 'RAND #ANYON 7EST 6ISITORS WILL BE ASKED TO PAY SOMETHING LIKE FOR THE THRILL OF WALKING OUT OVER THE SHEER FT DROP )F IT IS IN OPERATION WHEN YOU ARRIVE YOU SHOULD ALSO lND AN ADJACENT HIGH END RESTAURANT THOUGH THE GROUND HAD YET TO BE BROKEN AT PRESS TIME ! SHORT TRAIL FROM %AGLE 0OINT LEADS TO THE )NDIAN 6ILLAGE WHICH CONSISTS OF VARIOUS AUTHENTIC DWELLINGS BUILT BY THE (UALAPAI AND OTHER LOCAL .ATIVE
!MERICAN TRIBES INCLUDING THE .AVAJO (OPI AND !PACHE 4RIBAL REPRESENTA TIVES ARE ON HAND TO EXPLAIN THEIR HISTORY AND SYMBOLISM THERE ARE REGULAR DANCE PERFORMANCES AND CRAFTS ARE SOLD IN THE (UALAPAI -ARKET (VBOP1PJOU
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!T ROADS END TWO MILES BEYOND THE TERMINAL THE BUSES REACH APPETIZINGLY NAMED 'UANO 0OINT 4HIS WINDSWEPT ROUNDED HEADLAND POISED ATOP SHEER FT CLIFFS SURVEYS LONG STRETCHES OF THE #OLORADO IN BOTH DIRECTIONS 4HOUGH THE 'RAND #ANYON LOOKS AS IF IT COULD GO ON FOREVER IT ACTUALLY PETERS OUT JUST BEYOND THE NEXT BEND IN THE RIVER TO THE WEST WHERE IT BISECTS THE 'RAND 7ASH #LIFFS &OLLOW THE SHORT LOOP TRAIL JUST BELOW THE POINT AND YOULL lND LARGE PYLONS AND CHUNKS OF ABANDONED MACHINERY LITTERING THE LANDSCAPE $ATING FROM THE S AND S THESE ARE RELICS OF THE DAYS WHEN GUANO n BAT DUNG AN EXCEL LENT FERTILIZER n WAS COMMERCIALLY MINED FROM THE SO CALLED "AT #AVE STILL VISIBLE ON THE FAR SIDE OF THE RIVER ! CABLE CAR CARRIED THE CONGEALED DUNG ACROSS THE CANYON 4HE MINE WAS EVENTUALLY SHUT DOWN AFTER A RABIES SCARE AND ITS SAID THAT LOW mYING !IR &ORCE lGHTERS CUT THE SUSPENDED CABLES DURING A TRAINING MISSION UNLIKE THE .ATIONAL 0ARK 3ERVICE THE (UALAPAI ALLOW THE !IR &ORCE TO CONDUCT mIGHT TRAINING WITHIN THE CANYON !N UGLY RATHER FUTURISTIC SHELTER ON THE POINT SERVES ALL YOU CAN EAT BUFFET LUNCHES n CHICKEN RIBS AND THE LIKE n INCLUDED IN CERTAIN TOUR PACKAGES )VBMBQBJ3BODI
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2OUGHLY TWO MILES FROM THE TERMINAL IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION FROM %AGLE AND 'UANO POINTS (UALAPAI 2ANCH IS PERHAPS THE STRANGEST OF THE ATTRACTIONS THE (UALAPAI HAVE BUILT AT 'RAND #ANYON 7EST "EARING LITTLE RELEVANCE TO EITHER THE TRIBE OR THE CANYON ITS BASICALLY A THEMED 7ILD 7EST STOCKADE SET WELL BACK FROM THE RIM )N ADDITION TO SERVING AS THE HEADQUARTERS FOR HORSEBACK RIDES IT STAGES SUCH 7ESTERN STYLE EVENTS AS COUNTRY MUSIC AND PROFESSIONAL BISON RIDING AND ALSO OFFERS COOKOUT LUNCHES n A FANCY WAY OF SAYING AN OUTDOOR CAFÏ LADLES OUT PLATES OF BEANS AND BARBECUED CHICKENS 2VBSUFSNBTUFS1PJOU
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7HILE NO HIKING TRAILS CONNECT 'RAND #ANYON 7EST WITH THE RIVER BELOW A HIGH PROPORTION OF VISITORS TAKE THE FOUR MINUTE HELICOPTER RIDE DOWN FROM THE TERMINAL 4HE mIGHT IN ITSELF IS A MAJOR ADVENTURE THOUGH ITS ALSO A THRILL TO STROLL ALONG THE #OLORADO IN THE DEPTHS OF THE INNER GORGE 9OULL LAND CLOSE TO THE SOUTH BANK WHICH IS MUCH BROADER THAN ITS NORTHERN COUNTERPART AND MORE IMPORTANT BELONGS TO THE (UALAPAI 4HOUGH YOU WONT lND MUCH IN THE WAY OF AMENITIES APART FROM A BASIC ARBOR FOR SHADE THIS IS AN ATTRACTIVE AND FASCINATING SPOT LUSH WITH TAMARISK THICKETS AND mOWERING CACTI ! SHORT FOOTPATH LEADS FROM THE LANDING PAD TO THE RIVERS EDGE WHERE WOODEN JETTIES SERVE AS A BASE FOR PONTOONS AND JET BOATS THAT SWEEP VISITORS OUT FOR A QUICK SWIRL ON THE RIVER 4HE ADJOINING BEACH IS THE TERMI NUS FOR THE (UALAPAIS ONE DAY RAFTING TRIPS SEE P PARTICIPANTS mY OUT FROM HERE
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.OTE THAT IF YOU TAKE A ONE DAY HELICOPTER TOUR FROM ,AS 6EGAS TO 'RAND #ANYON 7EST AND THAT TOUR LANDS WITHIN THE CANYON BUT DOES NOT INCLUDE A RIVER TRIP YOUR LANDING WILL LIKELY BE AT A DIFFERENT VANTAGE POINT ROUGHLY A MILE OR SO UPRIVER WHICH OFFERS ARGUABLY BETTER VIEWS BUT NOT ACCESS TO THE RIVER ITSELF
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ART WHITE KNUCKLE RIDE PART LEISURELY SCENIC CRUISE RAFTING THE #OLO RADO 2IVER THROUGH THE 'RAND #ANYON HAS BEEN REPEATEDLY RATED AMONG THE GREATEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURES OUR PLANET HAS TO OFFER 9ES YOU CAN ADMIRE THE CANYON FROM THE SAFETY OF THE RIM BUT ONLY WHEN YOUVE RACED ITS EVERY RAPID DRENCHED TO THE SKIN AND DEAFENED BY ITS THUNDERING ROAR CAN YOU TRULY CLAIM TO KNOW IT INSIDE OUT !ND A RIVER TRIP OFFERS MUCH MORE THAN PURE ADRENALINE 9OU CAN ALSO PICNIC ON SANDY RIVERSIDE BEACHES CAMP BENEATH THE STARS HIKE UP LITTLE KNOWN SIDE CANYONS TO HIDDEN WATERFALLS MYSTERIOUS CAVES AND NARROW SANDSTONE SLOTS SWIM IN STREAMS AND WATER HOLES AND GENERALLY ESCAPE FROM THE MODERN WORLD INTO A REMOTE TIMELESS WILDER NESS 7HEN *OHN 7ESLEY 0OWELLS CREW SET OUT IN TO BECOME THE lRST PARTY TO TRAVEL DOWN THE #OLORADO BY BOAT SEE P THEY HAD NO WAY OF KNOWING WHETHER SUCH A VOYAGE WAS POSSIBLE !LONG THE WAY THEY WERE HAUNTED BY FEAR PERHAPS THAT A MIGHTY WATERFALL MIGHT LIE AROUND THE NEXT BEND OR THAT SOME FEARSOME RAPID MIGHT lLL THE CANYON WALL TO WALL AT A POINT THAT OFFERED NO WAY TO CLIMB OUT !S IT TURNED OUT THERE WERE NO WATERFALLS AND IT IS POSSIBLE TO mOAT THE FULL LENGTH OF THE #OLORADO /F COURSE IT REMAINS FAR FROM EASY AND IS NOT SOMETHING YOU SHOULD EVEN DREAM OF ATTEMPTING WITHOUT THE MOST EXPERT GUIDANCE AND ADVICE .EVERTHELESS RIVER CRAFT AND TECHNIQUES HAVE BECOME SO RElNED THAT PROFESSIONAL RAFTING COMPANIES CAN CARRY THOUSANDS OF INEXPERI ENCED PASSENGERS THROUGH THE CANYON EACH YEAR IN SAFETY 9ET AS WEATHER AND WATER LEVELS mUCTUATE AND mASH mOODS RESHAPE THE CANYON CONTOURS THE THRILL OF UNCERTAINTY REMAINS AND EVERY TRIP PRESENTS A NEW CHALLENGE 4HE PRIME REASON WHY RAFTING THE 'RAND #ANYON IS SO EXCITING IS THE ESTI MATED SETS OF RAPIDS ALONG THE WAY 4HE #OLORADO HERE IS WHATS KNOWN AS A hPOOL AND DROPv RIVER CONSISTING OF TRANQUIL SECTIONS WHERE IT MEANDERS ALONG AT AN AVERAGE SIX MILES PER HOUR THAT ALTERNATE WITH HECTIC RAPIDS WHERE THE WATER IS CONSTRICTED INTO NARROW DEBRIS STREWN CHANNELS 4HE LATTER OFTEN OCCUR WHERE ROCKS WASHED DOWN A SIDE CANYON BY A TRIBUTARY STREAM HAVE TUMBLED
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!NYONE CONSIDERING A COMMERCIAL RAFTING TRIP THROUGH THE 'RAND #ANYON MUST CHOOSE BETWEEN JOINING A MOTORIZED OR AN OAR POWERED EXPEDITION 4YPICAL COSTS RANGE BETWEEN AND PER PERSON PER DAY THOUGH OAR POWERED TRIPS OFTEN COST A BIT MORE AND TAKE LONGER OVERALL /N A MOTORIZED TRIP A PROFESSIONAL GUIDE IS WHOLLY RESPONSIBLE FOR THE ACTUAL WORK OF RUNNING THE RIVER WHILE ON AN OAR POWERED BOAT YOU DONT NECESSARILY HAVE TO DO ANY ROWING BUT GUIDES OFTEN ALLOW PASSENGERS TO PADDLE SOME OR EVEN ALL OF THE WAY !S A RULE THE MINIMUM AGE FOR PARTICIPANTS ON MOTORIZED TRIPS IS WHILE ON OAR POWERED TRIPS ITS !LTHOUGH PURISTS INSIST THAT THE COMPARATIVE SILENCE AND SENSE OF PHYSICAL INVOLVEMENT OF AN OAR POWERED TRIP PROVIDES A FAR MORE hAUTHENTICv RIVER RUNNING EXPERIENCE THAN A MOTORIZED TRIP THE ACTUAL DAY TO DAY ROUTINE IS ACTUALLY QUITE SIMILAR WHICHEVER TYPE YOU CHOOSE %VEN THE FASTEST TRIPS OF EITHER TYPE SPEND LITTLE MORE THAN lVE HOURS ACTUALLY ON THE RIVER EACH DAY ITS TAKEN FOR GRANTED THAT EVERYONE WANTS TO STOP FOR PICNICS AND HIKES
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INTO THE RIVERBED 4HE RESULTANT WHITE WATER CHARGES ALONG AT PERHAPS TWENTY OR THIRTY MILES PER HOUR CREATING AN OBSTACLE COURSE OF CONCEALED BOULDERS AND TREACHEROUS WHIRLPOOLS THAT CANYON BOATMEN LEARN TO NAVIGATE BY BOTH INSTINCT AND EXPERIENCE 4HE RAFTING SEASON BEGINS IN MID !PRIL AND RUNS UNTIL MID 3EPTEMBER FOR MOTORIZED TRIPS OR AS LATE AS EARLY .OVEMBER FOR OAR POWERED EXPEDITIONS 4HE BUSIEST PERIOD IS SUMMER BETWEEN *UNE AND !UGUST DESPITE THE FACT THAT DAYTIME TEMPERATURES OFTEN EXCEED ª& AND THUNDERSTORMS ARE COMMON FROM LATE *ULY INTO 3EPTEMBER )N SPRING AND FALL WHEN TEMPERATURES ARE COOLER AND THE CANYON QUIETER MANY OPERATORS OFFER LONGER TRIPS TO ALLOW FOR EXTRA HIKING 3PRING ALSO USHERS IN CANYON mORA AT ITS MOST COLORFUL 4YPICAL DAYTIME HIGHS ARE IN THE nª& RANGE IN !PRIL AND .OVEMBER MORE LIKE nª& IN -AY 3EPTEMBER AND /CTOBER .IGHTLY LOWS VARY FROM AS LOW AS ª& IN !PRIL UP TO A MUGGY ª& IN *ULY 7HENEVER YOU COME HOWEVER YOU MUST BE PREPARED FOR EXTREMES OF BOTH HEAT AND COLD AS WELL AS POTENTIAL RAIN !LTHOUGH THE #OLORADO ITSELF REMAINS CONSISTENTLY COOL YEAR ROUND BARELY STRAYING FROM ª& n COLD ENOUGH TO CAUSE HYPOTHERMIA n STREAMS AND POOLS IN THE SIDE CANYONS PRESENT GREAT SWIMMING OPPORTUNITIES IN SUMMER 4HERE ARE TWO BASIC TYPES OF RAFTING TRIP BOTH STRICTLY REGULATED BY THE 0ARK 3ERVICE n YOU CERTAINLY CANT JUST TURN UP AT THE #OLORADO WITH YOUR OWN RAFT AND SET OFF 9OU CAN EITHER JOIN A COMMERCIAL TRIP WITH ONE OF THE ACCREDITED CONCESSIONAIRES LISTED ON PPn OR IF YOU HAVE A GREAT DEAL OF WHITE WATER EXPERIENCE AND AN EVEN GREATER AMOUNT OF PATIENCE PUT TOGETHER YOUR OWN NONCOMMERCIAL PARTY AND JOIN THE WAITING LIST FOR A TIME SLOT !S IT CURRENTLY TAKES AROUND NINE YEARS TO REACH THE HEAD OF THE LINE THE COMMERCIAL OPTION IS MUCH MORE REALISTIC
5IFCPBUT &OR THE MOST PART COMMERCIAL OPERATORS USE DIFFERENT KINDS OF INmATABLE RUBBERIZED RAFTS 0OWELLS WOODEN BOATS WERE BUILT FOR SPEED VERY HARD TO MANEUVER AND ROWED BY TWO MEN SEATED IN TRADITIONAL ROWBOAT STYLE WITH THEIR BACKS TO WHAT LAY AHEAD -ODERN RAFTS ARE mAT BOTTOMED EXTREMELY MANEUVER ABLE AND CAPABLE OF BOUNCING UNDAMAGED OFF OBSTACLES THE SINGLE BOATMAN FACES
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FORWARD AND OFTEN SLOWS DOWN BY PADDLING AGAINST THE CURRENT JOCKEYING FOR POSITION UNTIL A ROUTE OPENS UP .ATURALLY MOTORIZED TRIPS TRAVEL SIGNIlCANTLY FASTER %ACH RAFT CAN BE UP TO THIRTY FEET LONG EQUIPPED WITH OUTRIGGERS FOR EXTRA STABILITY AND CARRY UP TO TEN PASSENGERS 4HE 0ARK 3ERVICE HAS LONG CONSIDERED BANNING MOTORIZED CRAFT ALTOGETHER ARGUING THAT THEY INCREASE BOTH NOISE AND ENVIRONMENTAL POLLUTION )NDUSTRY LOBBYISTS HAVE SO FAR MANAGED TO STYMIE A COMPLETE BAN BUT MOTORIZED EXPEDITIONS REMAIN RESTRICTED IN TERMS OF BOTH THE TOTAL PASSENGERS PERMITTED EACH YEAR AND THE SEASON THEY CAN OPERATE MID !PRIL TO MID 3EPTEMBER .ONMOTORIZED OR OAR POWERED RAFTS AVERAGE AROUND EIGHTEEN FEET LONG AND ARE USUALLY ROWED AND STEERED BY A GUIDE WITH A SINGLE OAR WHILE THE FOUR OR lVE PASSENGERS SIMPLY ENJOY THE RIDE 3OME OUTlTTERS ALSO OFFER PADDLE RAFTS OF A SIMILAR SIZE AND PASSENGER CAPACITY ON WHICH EVERYONE HAS THEIR OWN PADDLE AND THE GUIDE IS ONLY RESPONSIBLE FOR STEERING !DVENTURE SPORTS ENTHUSIASTS OFTEN OPT FOR PADDLE ONLY TRIPS DURING WHICH PAYING CUSTOMERS ARE EXPECTED TO PADDLE ALL THE WAY ITS ALSO POSSIBLE TO TAKE A HYBRID TRIP WHICH INCORPORATES BOTH VESSEL TYPES AND ALLOWS PASSENGERS TO CHOOSE EACH DAY WHETHER TO RIDE IN A PADDLE BOAT OR BE ROWED BY A GUIDE &OR THOSE DETERMINED TO ECHO THE CONDITIONS EXPERIENCED BY RIVER PIONEERS TWO OPERATORS 'RAND #ANYON %XPEDITIONS AND /!23 UNDER THE NAME 'RAND #ANYON $ORIES OFFER SIGNIlCANTLY MORE EXPENSIVE ROWING TRIPS IN HARD BODIED DORIES 4HESE ARE THE CLOSEST MODERN APPROXIMATION TO 0OWELLS BOATS ALBEIT EXTENSIVELY ADAPTED FOR 'RAND #ANYON USE "ECAUSE DORIES REQUIRE SUCH SKILLED HANDLING ONLY THE CREW MAY ROW
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WHICH ITS POSSIBLE TO LAUNCH A RAFTING EXPEDITION "OATS ANDOR PASSENGERS CAN HOWEVER LEAVE AT DIFFERING JUNCTURES 4HE CANYON ENDS AT -ILE WHERE THE #OLORADO EMERGES ON THE OPEN WATERS OF ,AKE -EAD THREE MILES FARTHER AT -ILE A PAVED ROAD ACCESSES THE LAKE AT 0EARCE &ERRY (OWEVER OVER THE lNAL MILES OF THE CANYON THE TRUE CHANNEL LIES SUBMERGED BENEATH CALMER LAKE WATERS -ANY RIVER TRIPS THEREFORE END AT $IAMOND #REEK ON (UALAPAI LAND AT -ILE WHERE BOATS AND PASSENGERS CAN BE DRIVEN OUT OF THE CANYON ALONG A GRAVEL ROAD 3OME OPERATORS END THEIR TRIPS EVEN SOONER AT 7HITMORE 7ASH -ILE SCOOP ING UP CUSTOMERS FROM RIVER LEVEL BY HELICOPTER AND WHISKING THEM TO THE "AR 2ANCH ON THE .ORTH 2IM WHERE AN AIRSTRIP ENABLES ONWARD mIGHTS TO ,AS 6EGAS OR ELSEWHERE 0HANTOM 2ANCH AT -ILE OFFERS ANOTHER POTENTIAL STOP PING PLACE EN ROUTE FROM WHICH PASSENGERS CAN HIKE OUT TO EITHER THE 3OUTH OR .ORTH RIMS 0ASSENGERS MAY ALSO JOIN AN EXISTING TRIP AT 0HANTOM 2ANCH THOUGH THERES NO WAY TO GET A BOAT DOWN TO THE #OLORADO AT THAT POINT 4HE PERMUTATIONS FOR POSSIBLE TRIPS ARE ENDLESS 7HAT ARE ADVERTISED AS FULL LENGTH 'RAND #ANYON EXPEDITIONS MAY BE OR MILES LONG AND TAKE ANYTHING FROM SIX MOTORIZED DAYS TO OAR POWERED DAYS 4HE RECORD INCIDENTALLY FOR THE FULL MILES IS JUST UNDER HOURS BY AN UNAUTHORIZED EXPEDITION UNDERTAKEN IN DURING DANGEROUS mOODING WHEN THE CANYON WAS CLOSED TO ALL CRAFT -OST OPERATORS ALSO OFFER AN UPPER CANYON OPTION STARTING AT ,EES &ERRY AND ENDING WITH A HIKE OUT FROM 0HANTOM 2ANCH WHICH TYPICALLY TAKES FOUR DAYSTHREE NIGHTS AS WELL AS A LOWER CANYON TRIP STARTING WITH A HIKE DOWN TO 0HANTOM 2ANCH AND TAKING OUT SOMEWHERE DOWNSTREAM AFTER FOUR OR lVE NIGHTS 9OU CAN ALSO TAKE A TWO DAYONE NIGHT RIVER TRIP IF YOU mY DOWN INTO THE CANYON AT 7HITMORE 7ASH WITH !RIZONA 2IVER 2UNNERS SEE P OR A DAY TRIP FROM $IAMOND #REEK WITH (UALAPAI 2IVER 2UNNERS SEE P .EITHER AN UPPER NOR A LOWER CANYON TRIP IS hBETTERv THAN THE OTHER /N AN UPPER CANYON TRIP YOU AND YOUR FELLOW PASSENGERS WILL SET OUT TOGETHER VERSUS JOINING AN ESTABLISHED GROUP AND YOULL GET A GENTLER MORE PROGRESSIVE INTRODUC TION TO THE CANYON AND ITS RAPIDS /N THE OTHER HAND THERES LESS PLACID WATER OVERALL AND YOULL HAVE TO HIKE OUT AT THE END ! LOWER CANYON TRIP OFFERS A SLIGHTLY LONGER RIDE BUT ALSO PLUNGES YOU STRAIGHT AWAY INTO SOME REALLY MAJOR RAPIDS !LTHOUGH WHITE WATER EXPERTS TRADITIONALLY GRADE RAPIDS ON A DIFlCULTY SCALE OF TO ON THE #OLORADO THEYRE RANKED FROM TO SO A hv HERE WONT BE THE SAME AS ONE ELSEWHERE "OTH OF THE 'RAND #ANYONS TWO UNQUESTIONED S LIE DOWNSTREAM FROM 0HANTOM 2ANCH n #RYSTAL 2APID AT -ILE CREATED BY A mASH mOOD IN AND ,AVA &ALLS 2APID FARTHER WEST AT -ILE WHICH IS VISIBLE FROM 4OROWEAP 0OINT SEE P 4HERE ARE HOWEVER A COUPLE OF ALMOST AS INTENSE RAPIDS IN THE UPPER CANYON (ANCE 2APID AT -ILE AND 3OCKDOLAGER 2APID n NAMED BY 0OWELL FOR A CONTEMPORARY WORD MEANING hKNOCKOUT PUNCHv n JUST PAST THE START OF THE 'RANITE 'ORGE AT -ILE /THER HIGHLIGHTS IN THE UPPER CANYON INCLUDE 6ASEYS 0ARADISE A mOWER lLLED NATURAL GARDEN AT -ILE THE 2EDWALL #AVERN AT -ILE A VAST SAND mOORED ALCOVE WHICH 0OWELL OVEREAGERLY ESTIMATED COULD HOLD lFTY THOUSAND PEOPLE AND THE CONmUENCE WITH THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO AT -ILE WHICH THANKS TO A RICH CONCENTRATION OF SALTS FROM SPRINGS NOT FAR UPSTREAM mOWS IN FROM THE EAST AS A RESPLENDENT TURQUOISE STREAM 4HE BIGGEST TREATS FOR HIKERS COME IN THE LOWER CANYON WITH THE SUCCESSIVE /LO -ATKATAMIBA AND (AVASU CANYONS BETWEEN MILES AND 4HE lRST TWO ARE NARROW SLOT CANYONS INTERSPERSED WITH HIDDEN POOLS AND WATERFALLS AND
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&OLLOWING IS A COMPLETE LIST OF OPERATORS AUTHORIZED TO CONDUCT COMMERCIAL RIVER TRIPS WITHIN THE 'RAND #ANYON YOU CAN ALSO lND THE CURRENT LIST ONLINE WITH ACTIVE LINKS AT WWWNPSGOVGRCARIVERRIVER?CONCESSIONERSHTM &OR AN OVERVIEW OF AVAILABLE EXCURSIONS CONTACT 2IVERS /CEANS . #OPELAND ,ANE &LAGSTAFF !: OR WWWRIVERS OCEANSCOM A TRAVEL BROKER THAT SPECIALIZES IN MAKING BOOKINGS WITH ALL OF THE OUTlTTERS 7HEN CONSIDERING A COMPANY ASK WHETHER ITS PUBLISHED RATES INCLUDE ANY TRANSPORTATION ANDOR OVERNIGHT ACCOMMODATION THAT MAY BE REQUIRED BEFORE OR AFTER YOUR TRIP 7HILE YOU MIGHT BE TEMPTED TO CUT COSTS BY DRIVING YOURSELF TO ,EES &ERRY THAT CAN LEAVE YOU WITH A SERIOUS LOGISTICAL PROBLEM !LSO IF YOURE A LONG WAY FROM HOME CHOOSING A TRIP THAT INCLUDES ROUND TRIP TRANSPORTATION TO AND FROM &LAGSTAFF OR ,AS 6EGAS CAN SPARE YOU FROM HAVING TO PAY FOR A RENTAL CAR YOU WONT BE USING FOR SEVERAL DAYS ,ISTED RATES INCLUDE UNLIMITED FOOD AND BEVERAGES FOR THE DURATION THOUGH YOULL HAVE TO SUPPLY ANY ALCOHOLIC DRINKS YOURSELF 9OU SHOULD HOWEVER CONlRM EXACTLY WHAT EQUIPMENT IS INCLUDED IN THE PRICE 3OME OPERATORS CHARGE RENTAL FEES TO PASSENGERS WHO DONT BRING THEIR OWN SLEEPING BAGS AND MATS WHILE OTHERS PROVIDE EVERYTHING #OMPANIES ALSO PROVIDE CHECKLISTS OF WHAT YOU SHOULD AND SHOULDNT BRING 2ECOMMENDED CLOTHING INCLUDES A FULL SET OF RAINGEAR INSULATING BASE LAYERS A mEECE JACKET AND HAT A SWIMSUIT AND SANDALS WITH SOFT RUBBER SOLES !MONG ITEMS NOT TO CARRY ARE MOBILE OR SATELLITE PHONES RADIOS AND OTHER ELECTRICAL DEVICES &INALLY BEAR IN MIND THAT ITS CUSTOMARY TO TIP YOUR RIVER GUIDES BETWEEN lVE AND TEN PERCENT OF THE TOTAL COST AT THE END OF YOUR TRIP "SJ[POB3BGU"EWFOUVSFT'&)VOUJOHUPO 3E 'MBHTUBGG "; PS XXXB[SBGUDPN"3"TNPUPS J[FESBGUTPQFSBUFCFUXFFO.BZBOENJE"VHVTU DPTUJOHBSPVOEGPSUIFFJHIUEBZTUBOEBSE USJQ GPSUIFUFOEBZ)JLFST%JTDPWFSZJO 4FQU GPSUIFUFOEBZ/BUVSBM)JTUPSZ %JTDPWFSZJO.BZ BOEGPSUIFUXFMWFEBZ (FPMPHZ%JTDPWFSZJO4FQUFNCFS1BEEMFPOMZ USJQTMFBWFPODFNPOUIMZCFUXFFO.BZBOENJE 4FQUFNCFS BUBSPVOEGPSTJYEBZT GPSOJOFEBZT BOEGPSGPVSUFFOEBZT'PS TMJHIUMZDIFBQFSSBUFT ZPVDBOBMTPKPJOPOFPGB EP[FOIZCSJEUSJQTCFUXFFO.BZBOE4FQUFNCFS "SJ[POB3JWFS3VOOFST10#PY 1IPFOJY "; PS XXXSBGUBSJ[POBDPN.PUPSJ[FEUSJQT EPXOUIFGVMMMFOHUIPGUIFDBOZPO BWBJMBCMF CFUXFFO.BZBOE4FQUFNCFS DPTUGPSTJY EBZT GPSTFWFOEBZT PSGPSFJHIU EBZT0BSQPXFSFEFYQFEJUJPOTSVOGPVSUJNFT
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.O ONE DAY RAFTING TRIPS ARE AVAILABLE WITHIN 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL 0ARK )F YOU ONLY HAVE A DAY TO SPARE HOWEVER THERE ARE TWO ALTERNATIVES n ONE AT EITHER END OF THE CANYON !S DESCRIBED ON P 7ILDERNESS 2IVER !DVENTURES OR WWWRIVERADVENTURESCOM OFFERS ONE DAY mOAT TRIPS THAT START IMMEDIATELY BELOW 'LEN #ANYON $AM AND TAKE OUT AT ,EES &ERRY DAILY AM MID -ARCH TO MID -AY AND MID 3EPTEMBER THROUGH -AY AM OR PM *UNE TO MID 3EPTEMBER ADULTS AGE AND UNDER 0ARTICIPANTS RENDEZVOUS AT !RAMARKS HEADQUARTERS AT 3 ,AKE 0OWELL "LVD IN 0AGE !RIZONA NOT FAR FROM THE DAM 7ATER AND SODAS ARE PROVIDED BUT YOURE EXPECTED TO BRING YOUR OWN PICNIC LUNCH &ARTHER WEST (UALAPAI 2IVER 2UNNERS OFFERS DAILY MILE MOTORIZED TRIPS THROUGH THE WESTERN END OF THE CANYON INCLUDING SEVERAL RAPIDS 9OULL lND FULL DETAILS IN THE (UALAPAI )NDIAN 2ESERVATION CHAPTER SEE P
/PODPNNFSDJBMUSJQT
"ETWEEN AND PRIVATE RAFTING EXPEDITIONS ARE ALLOWED ONTO THE #OLORADO EACH YEAR WITH A MAXIMUM OF SIXTEEN PARTICIPANTS EACH 4HE 0ARK 3ERVICE MAINTAINS A WAITING LIST OF MORE THAN APPLICANTS EAGER TO ORGAN IZE THEIR OWN TRIPS SUFlCIENT TO lLL ALL VACANCIES NINE YEARS IN ADVANCE 3INCE $ECEMBER HOWEVER THE 0ARK 3ERVICE HAS STOPPED ADDING NAMES TO THE LIST AS AN ONGOING REVIEW OF THE #OLORADO 2IVER -ANAGEMENT 0LAN IS EXPECTED
TO CHANGE THE WHOLE WAY RIVER RAFTING IS REGULATED AND ORGANIZED &OR DETAILS CONTACT THE 'RAND #ANYON 2IVER 0ERMITS /FlCE 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL 0ARK 0/ "OX 'RAND #ANYON !: OR !LL THOSE WHOSE NAMES ARE ALREADY ON THE LIST HAVE TO SUBMIT A #ONTINUING )NTEREST FORM EVERY YEAR BY THE END OF *ANUARY MISS THIS DEADLINE MORE THAN ONCE IN ANY FOUR YEAR PERIOD AND YOULL BE DROPPED FROM THE LIST 3HOULD YOUR NAME lNALLY RISE TO THE TOP YOULL BE INVITED TO PICK A DATE WITHIN THE NEXT TWO YEARS ! FURTHER FEE OF PER PERSON IS PAYABLE NINETY DAYS IN ADVANCE .O PARTICIPANT ON ANY TRIP CAN HAVE BEEN ON ANOTHER NONCOMMERCIAL TRIP WITHIN THE LAST FOUR YEARS AND PLACES ARE TRANSFERABLE ONLY IN VERY TIGHTLY CONTROLLED CIRCUMSTANCES !ROUND SEVENTY CANCELLATIONS COME THROUGH EACH YEAR 4HE FREED UP DATES ARE ASSIGNED TO THOSE ON THE WAITING LIST WHO MUST CALL ON &RIDAY EVENINGS OR ALL DAY 3ATURDAY OR 3UNDAY .AMES HIGHER UP THE LIST ARE FAVORED BUT IF YOURE mEXIBLE YOU MAY EVEN GET A CANCELLATION THE YEAR YOU APPLY 3"' 5* /(5)& $ 0- 0 3 " % 0 3 * 7 & 3
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#ONTEXTS
#ONTEXTS (ISTORY 'EOLOGY &LORA AND FAUNA "OOKS
(ISTORY
4
HE 'RAND #ANYON MIGHT SEEM A SUPREMELY INHOSPITABLE PRISTINE ENVI RONMENT BUT IT HAS BEEN HOME TO HUMANS FOR AROUND TWELVE THOUSAND YEARS .ATIVE !MERICANS ONCE FARMED ALONG THE CANYON mOOR ACROSS ITS PLATEAUS AND UP ON THE RIMS WHILE 3PANISH ADVENTURERS ARRIVED HERE EIGHTY YEARS BEFORE THE -AYmOWER SET SAIL /NLY WITHIN THE LAST HUNDRED YEARS HOWEVER HAS IT OCCURRED TO ANYONE TO COME HERE FOR FUN
.ATIVE PEOPLES
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\ (ISTORY
4HE OLDEST TRACES OF A HUMAN PRESENCE AT THE 'RAND #ANYON ARE A HANDFUL OF mAKED STONE SPEARHEADS THAT DATE BACK TO AROUND "# 4HEY WERE PRODUCED BY THE #LOVIS CULTURE WHICH SPREAD THROUGHOUT .ORTH AND 3OUTH !MERICA UNTIL AROUND "# ,IVING IN SMALL GROUPS CONSTANTLY ON THE MOVE #LOVIS HUNTERS PURSUED PREY OVER LONG DISTANCES 4HEY SEEM TO HAVE BEEN SUCH SUCCESSFUL KILLERS THAT THEY DROVE THE INDIGENOUS FAUNA n WHICH INCLUDED GIANT SLOTHS CAMELS AND EVEN HORSES n TO EXTINCTION !S THE LARGE ANIMALS DIED OUT THE INHABITANTS OF THE 'RAND #ANYON ADAPTED TO BECOME HUNTER GATHERERS WHO MIGRATED SEASONALLY BETWEEN THE CANYONS AND PLATEAUS IN SEARCH OF FOOD *UDGING BY SMALL lGURINES FOUND IN CAVES IN -ARBLE #ANYON AND ELSEWHERE n MADE FROM SPLIT WILLOW TWIGS TO REPRESENT DEER AND BIGHORN SHEEP AND OFTEN RUN THROUGH BY LITTLE hSPEARSv n THESE NOMADS DEVEL OPED SHAMANISTIC RITUALS TO ENCOURAGE HUNTING SUCCESS 4HE SO CALLED !RCHAIC %RA DREW TO A CLOSE FOLLOWING INlLTRATION OF INmUENCES FROM -EXICO ESPECIALLY AGRICULTURE 4HE SKILL OF GROWING CORN PASSED NORTH WARD FROM GROUP TO GROUP AND ACCOMPANIED BY PRAYERS AND RITUALS TO ENSURE A GOOD HARVEST REACHED THE CANYON AROUND "# !T lRST LOW LEVEL FARMING MERELY SUPPLEMENTED THE TRADITIONAL DIET LARGE SCALE CULTIVATION OF CORN AND ALSO SQUASH PROBABLY BEGAN AROUND "# 4HE PEOPLE RESPONSIBLE KNOWN AS THE "ASKETMAKERS LIVED IN EXTENDED FAMILY GROUPS IN SHALLOW PIT HOUSES n RECTANGULAR PITS TWO TO SIX FEET DEEP WITH EARTHEN ROOFS THAT ROSE ABOVE GROUND LEVEL 4HEY HUNTED USING THE ATLATL n A SPEAR THROWING DEVICE n AND COOKED BY DROPPING HOT ROCKS INTO YUCCA LEAF BASKETS LINED WITH WATERPROOF PITCH 4HEY ALSO DOMESTICATED DOGS FOR HUNTING AND TURKEYS USED FOR FEATHERS RATHER THAN FOOD 0OTTERY ARRIVED A FEW CENTURIES LATER AND WITH IT THE ABILITY TO BOIL BEANS THE THIRD GREAT STAPLE 3OUTHWESTERN FOOD "Y AROUND !$ THE "ASKETMAK ERS WERE ALSO GROWING COTTON AND USING BOWS AND ARROWS 3IZABLE VILLAGES WHAT THE 3PANISH LATER CALLED PUEBLOS STARTED TO APPEAR %ACH CENTERED ON ONE PIT HOUSE LARGER THAN THE REST THAT WAS SET ASIDE FOR PUBLIC OR RITUAL USE 4HESE WERE THE lRST KIVAS n THE CEREMONIAL UNDERGROUND CHAMBERS STILL AT THE HEART OF 0UEBLO RELIGION "Y !$ THE 'RAND #ANYON WAS POPULATED BY THE ANCES TORS OF MODERN 0UEBLO )NDIANS A PEOPLE NOW KNOWN AS !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOANS IN PREFERENCE TO THE PREVIOUSLY COMMON TERM !NASAZI WHICH COMES FROM A .AVAJO WORD MEANING hENEMY ANCESTORSv 4HE HEYDAY OF AGRICULTURE IN THE 'RAND #ANYON CAME ROUGHLY ONE THOUSAND YEARS AGO WHEN INCREASED LEVELS OF PRECIPITATION MEANT THAT CORN BEANS AND SQUASH COULD BE PLANTED THROUGHOUT THE CANYON $ELTAS AT THE MOUTHS OF MAJOR
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\ (ISTORY
SIDE CANYONS SUCH AS 5NKAR #REEK AND #HUAR #REEK MADE PRIZED LIVING SPOTS -ODERN VISITORS CAN SEE TYPICAL 0UEBLOAN DWELLINGS BOTH DOWN IN THE CANYON CLOSE TO 0HANTOM 2ANCH SEE P AND UP ON THE PLATEAUS MOST NOTABLY AT THE 4USAYAN 2UIN ON THE 3OUTH 2IM SEE P AND 7ALHALLA 'LADES ON THE .ORTH 2IM SEE P !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOANS SEEM TO HAVE ROAMED READILY BETWEEN RIM AND RIVER THEIR LADDERS AND EVEN FOOTBRIDGES STILL SURVIVE IN CERTAIN WELL HIDDEN PLACES WHILE THEIR TRAILS FORM THE BASIS OF ALMOST ALL THE PARKS HIKING ROUTES "Y AROUND RAINFALL HAD AGAIN DIMINISHED THE SOIL WAS BECOMING DEPLETED AND AN EXODUS FROM THE REGION BEGAN 4HERE ARE ALSO INDICATIONS OF CONmICT FOR SCANT RESOURCES BETWEEN COMPETING GROUPS 4HE !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOANS OF THE CANYON CAN BE SUBDIVIDED INTO THE +AYENTA PEOPLES OF ITS EASTERN AND CENTRAL REACHES AND THE #OHONINA FARTHER WEST WHO WITH LESS FERTILE FARMLAND DEPENDED TO A GREATER EXTENT ON ROASTING WILD AGAVE PLANTS &ORTIlED WATCHTOWER LIKE STRUCTURES ALONG THE RIM SUGGEST THAT THESE PREVIOUSLY AMICABLE NEIGHBORS MAY HAVE FALLEN OUT OR THAT PERHAPS THE #OHONINA LEFT THE CANYON EARLIER THAN THE +AYENTA AND WERE SUPPLANTED BY THE LESS FRIENDLY #ERBAT PEOPLE 4HE 0AIUTE ALSO MADE THEIR APPEARANCE AROUND THIS TIME ALONG THE WESTERN END OF THE .ORTH 2IM !LTHOUGH ONLY A MINIMAL POPULATION REMAINED IN THE CANYON PROPER BY 0UEBLOAN GROUPS HAVE MAINTAINED CLOSE SPIRITUAL LINKS EVER SINCE 4HE MANY DISTINCT 0UEBLO PEOPLES THAT SURVIVE TODAY CAME INTO BEING WHEN GROUPS OF MIGRANTS COALESCED IN VARIOUS LOCATIONS WELL EAST OF THE CANYON BETWEEN AROUND AND 'EOGRAPHICALLY THE CLOSEST ARE THE (OPI WHOSE MESAS LIE SIXTY MILES EAST 4HEY REGARD A DOME SHAPED HOT SPRING KNOWN AS THE SIPAPU NOT FAR UP THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO FROM ITS CONmUENCE WITH THE #OLORADO AS THE HOLE THROUGH WHICH THEY ENTERED THE WORLD AND THEY STILL MAKE PILGRIMAGES TO IT ALONG THE 3ALT 4RAIL 3OME :UNI WHO NOW LIVE IN .EW -EXICO ALSO TRACE THEIR ORIGINS BACK TO THE CANYON PARTICULARLY TO 2AINBOW &ALLS BELOW THE .ORTH 2IM &ARTHER WEST THE #ERBAT NEVER LEFT THE CANYON VICINITY 4HEIR DESCENDANTS BECAME THE (UALAPAI AS WELL AS THE (AVASUPAI WHOSE CONTINUED EXISTENCE DEEP IN (AVASU #ANYON REPRESENTS THE CLOSEST MODERN APPROXIMATION TO THE ANCIENT WAY OF LIFE
4HE COMING OF THE 3PANISH
)N n LESS THAN TWENTY YEARS AFTER #ORTÏS CONQUERED THE !ZTECS OF -EXICO AND BEFORE ANY %UROPEAN SETTLEMENTS HAD BEEN ESTABLISHED ANYWHERE IN WHATS NOW THE 5NITED 3TATES n THE lRST 3PANIARDS REACHED THE 3OUTHWEST !N EXPE DITION LED BY &RANCISCO 6ÉSQUEZ DE #ORONADO HOPING TO lND CITIES OF GOLD AND CONSISTING OF MORE THAN THREE HUNDRED 3PANISH SOLDIERS AND HUNDREDS MORE .ATIVE !MERICAN hALLIESv AND SERVANTS MARCHED UP THROUGH !RIZONA AND REACHED THE :UNI PUEBLOS ON *ULY !FTER A BLOODY BATTLE n THE lRST EVER FOUGHT BETWEEN %UROPEANS AND .ATIVE !MERICANS n SECURED THE AREA AS A TEMPORARY BASE EXPLORING PARTIES WERE SENT OUT IN ALL DIRECTIONS 2EACHING THE (OPI MESAS ONE SUCH GROUP WAS TOLD OF A GREAT RIVER NOT FAR TO THE WEST INHABITED BY PEOPLE WITH VERY LARGE BODIES PRESUMABLY THE (AVASUPAI WHO TEND TO BE SIGNIlCANTLY BIGGER THAN THE (OPI &OUR MEN UNDER 'ARCÓA ,ØPEZ DE #ÉRDENAS WERE DISPATCHED TO INVESTIGATE 4HEY REACHED THE 'RAND #ANYON AFTER TWENTY DAYS A PUZZLINGLY LONG MARCH THAT SUGGESTS THEIR (OPI
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\ (ISTORY
GUIDES WERE DELIBERATELY LEADING THEM ASTRAY 4HE 3PANIARDS WERE ASSURED THAT NO TRAILS EXTENDED DOWN TO THE RIVER AND WERE TAKEN TO A SPOT WHERE NONE WAS VISIBLE NO ONE KNOWS EXACTLY WHERE BUT ITS GENERALLY RECKONED TO HAVE BEEN SOMEWHERE NEAR 'RANDVIEW 0OINT #ÉRDENAS MEN SPENT THREE DAYS ON THE 3OUTH 2IM SEARCHING FOR A ROUTE TO THE BOTTOM 4HREE EVENTUALLY MADE AN ABORTIVE ATTEMPT ONLY TO DISCOVER THAT hSOME HUGE ROCKS ON THE SIDES OF THE CLIFFS ;THAT= SEEMED TO BE ABOUT AS TALL AS A MAN x WERE BIGGER THAN THE GREAT TOWER OF 3EVILLEv 4HEY TURNED BACK A THIRD OF THE WAY DOWN CONCLUDING THAT hIT WAS IMPOSSIBLE TO DESCENDv 4HE 3PANISH HOPED TO lND A RIVER ROUTE TO THE SO CALLED h3OUTH 3EA v THE 'ULF OF #ALIFORNIA AND IDENTIlED THE #OLORADO AS BEING THE 2ÓO 4ÓSON OR &IREBRAND 2IVER UP WHICH A SIMULTANEOUS NAVAL EXPEDITION WAS ATTEMPTING TO SAIL )T MANAGED MILES REACHING THE MODERN SITE OF THE (OOVER $AM #ÉRDENAS HIMSELF WHO SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN AN UNSAVORY CHARACTER REJOINED #ORONADO AND WAS LATER RESPONSIBLE FOR BURNING TWO HUNDRED )NDIAN HOSTAGES ALIVE AT THE 4IGUEX PUEBLO !LTHOUGH #ORONADOS EXPEDITION ULTIMATELY FAILED THE 3PANIARDS RETURNED IN FORCE IN TO ESTABLISH THE COLONY OF .EW -EXICO THE BOUNDARIES OF WHICH NOMINALLY INCLUDED THE 'RAND #ANYON (OWEVER NO FURTHER 3PANISH VISITS TO THE CANYON ARE RECORDED BEFORE WHEN A GROUP OF EXPLORERS FROM 3ANTA &E LED BY THE &RANCISCAN FRIARS $OMÓNGUEZ AND %SCALANTE SEE P SET OUT TO MAP WHAT LATER BECAME THE /LD 3PANISH 4RAIL TO #ALIFORNIA /N THEIR RETURN THEY WANDERED EXTENSIVELY ACROSS THE !RIZONA 3TRIP AND FAILED TO CROSS THE RIVER AT THE SITE OF ,EES &ERRY 4HAT SAME YEAR &ATHER 'ARCÏS FROM 4UCSON PENETRATED WHAT HE CALLED A hCALABOOSE OF CLIFFS AND CANYONSv TO VISIT THE (AVASUPAI IN THE WESTERN CANYON
*OHN 7ESLEY 0OWELL /NE OR TWO MOUNTAIN MEN AND TRAPPERS MAY HAVE SEEN THE 'RAND #ANYON DURING THE lRST HALF OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY BUT BY THE TIME JURISDICTION OVER THE REGION PASSED FROM -EXICO TO THE 5NITED 3TATES IN IT HAD YET TO BE SURVEYED AND DID NOT EVEN HAVE A lXED NAME 4O THE (AVASUPAI IT WAS 7IKATATA h2OUGH 2IMv 3PANISH MAPS SHOWED IT AS THE 2ÓO -UY 'RANDE h6ERY "IG 2IVERv AND 9ANKEE PROSPECTORS KNEW IT AS THE "IG #A×ØN 4HE lRST SERIOUS ATTEMPT TO EXPLORE IT CAME IN WHEN THE 53 7AR $EPARTMENT INSTRUCTED ,IEUTENANT *OSEPH #HRISTMAS )VES TO lND OUT IF THE #OLORADO 2IVER WAS NAVIGABLE BY STEAMBOAT ,IKE HIS 3PANISH PREDECESSORS )VES GOT LITTLE FARTHER THAN THE FUTURE (OOVER $AM SITE BUT HE THEN CONTINUED ON FOOT ALL THE WAY TO THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO 2IVER 4HOUGH AN ACCOMPANYING GEOLOGIST MADE THE lRST ACCURATE SCIENTIlC OBSERVATIONS OF THE CANYON THE EXPE DITION IS BEST REMEMBERED FOR )VES OWN VERY NEGATIVE ASSESSMENT h4HE REGION IS OF COURSE ALTOGETHER VALUELESS x /URS HAS BEEN THE lRST AND WILL DOUBTLESS BE THE LAST PARTY OF WHITES TO VISIT THIS PROlTLESS LOCALITYv 4HE NAME 'RAND #ANYON lRST USED ON A MAP IN WAS POPULARIZED BY THE ONE ARMED #IVIL 7AR VETERAN *OHN 7ESLEY 0OWELL WHOSE DRAMATIC BOAT TRIP ALONG THE FEARSOME AND UNCHARTED #OLORADO CAPTURED PUBLIC IMAGINA TION 3UCH A TRIP HAD LONG BEEN MULLED BUT IN THE WORDS OF *OHN &RÏMONT THE LEGENDARY h0ATHlNDERv OF THE 7EST hNO TRAPPERS HAVE BEEN FOUND BOLD ENOUGH TO UNDERTAKE A VOYAGE WHICH HAS SO CERTAIN A PROSPECT OF A FATAL TERMINATIONv
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0OWELLS TEN MAN #OLORADO 2IVER %XPLORING %XPEDITION SET OFF FROM 'REEN 2IVER 7YOMING ON -AY 4HIS WAS JUST TWO WEEKS AFTER THE COMPLETION OF THE TRANSCONTINENTAL RAILROAD WHICH CARRIED HIS FOUR HEAVY 7HITEHALL OAK ROWING BOATS HERE FROM #HICAGO !NOTHER EXPEDITION LED BY 4HOMAS (OOK SET OFF A FEW DAYS LATER BUT WAS ABANDONED ALMOST IMMEDIATELY AFTER (OOK DROWNED IN A RAPID 0OWELL HIMSELF SOON LOST ONE OF HIS BOATS BUT HE REACHED WHAT WOULD BECOME 'REEN 2IVER 5TAH ON *ULY THEN THE PREVI OUSLY UNSEEN CONmUENCE OF THE 'REEN AND LARGER 'RAND RIVERS WHICH MARKS THE START OF THE #OLORADO ON *ULY AND THE MOUTH OF THE 3AN *UAN ON *ULY &ROM WHATS NOW ,EES &ERRY HE LAUNCHED HIMSELF INTO THE 'RAND #ANYON ON !UGUST )T WAS A GRUELING EVEN NIGHTMARISH TRIP FOR WHICH 0OWELLS BOATS WERE WHOLLY UNSUITABLE (IS CREW COUNTED A TOTAL OF RAPIDS OF WHICH THEY HAD TO PORTAGE n THAT IS PHYSICALLY CARRY THEIR BOATS OVER THE RIVERSIDE ROCKS %VENTUALLY HOWEVER THE BEDRAGGLED RAVENOUS CREW EMERGED FROM THE CANYON ON !UGUST )N A DREADFUL IRONY THREE MEMBERS OF THE PARTY TERRIlED BY THE INTERMINABLE PROSPECT OF YET MORE RAPIDS HAD ABANDONED THE RIVER THE DAY BEFORE ONLY TO BE MURDERED AS THEY HIKED OUT OF 3EPARATION #ANYON 4HEIR DEATHS HAVE TRADITION ALLY BEEN BLAMED ON .ATIVE !MERICANS BUT COMPELLING RECENT EVIDENCE SUGGESTS -ORMON SETTLERS MAY HAVE KILLED THEM 0OWELL WAS BOTH A GENUINE HERO AND A CONSUMMATE SELF PUBLICIST WHO THANKS IN PART TO THE ACCLAIM HE RECEIVED FOR HIS JOURNALS n AN UNACKNOWLEDGED AMAL GAM OF BOTH THIS VOYAGE AND A SECOND TREK IN n LATER BECAME DIRECTOR OF BOTH THE "UREAU OF !MERICAN %THNOLOGY AND THE 53 'EOLOGICAL 3URVEY (E RETURNED REPEATEDLY TO THE CANYON WITH SCIENTIlC TEAMS ONE OF WHICH IN INCLUDED THE ARTIST 4HOMAS -ORAN -ORANS PAINTINGS AND ENGRAVINGS AND THE DETAILED GEOLOGIC REPORT PREPARED BY #LARENCE $UTTON IN n n THE lRST TO GIVE QUASI RELIGIOUS NAMES TO THE VARIOUS hTEMPLESv AND MONU MENTS BELOW THE RIM n DID MUCH TO PLACE THE CANYON lRMLY IN THE !MERICAN CONSCIOUSNESS
4HE GROWTH OF TOURISM
!S THE 'RAND #ANYON WAS BEING RECOGNIZED AS THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY NATU RAL WONDER IN THE 53 SETTLERS MOVED TO THE VICINITY IN EVER GREATER NUMBERS )SOLATED -ORMON COMMUNITIES SPRANG UP ACROSS THE !RIZONA 3TRIP ON THE .ORTH 2IM PLATEAUS WHILE WESTBOUND PIONEERS BEGAN TO STAKE CLAIMS CLOSE TO THE 3OUTH 2IM 4HERE HAS BEEN TENSION EVER SINCE BETWEEN THIS NEW PERMA NENT POPULATION DETERMINED TO SURVIVE IN SUCH AN UNFORGIVING ENVIRONMENT AND VISITORS HOPING TO lND UNSPOILED WILDERNESS "ROADLY SPEAKING LOGGING AND GRAZING INTERESTS LONG RETAINED CONTROL OF THE PLATEAU FORESTS WHILE IN THE CANYON ITSELF MOST ATTEMPTS AT MINING WERE DEFEATED BY THE DIFlCULT TERRAIN TOURISM SOON PROVED A FAR MORE LUCRATIVE PROPOSITION 7HEN THE RAILROAD lRST CROSSED NORTHERN !RIZONA IN VISITORS WERE TAKEN BY STAGECOACH FROM 0EACH 3PRINGS THE NEAREST STATION TO THE 'RAND #ANYON TO STAY AT THE $IAMOND #REEK (OTEL BY THE RIVER 7ITH THE GROWTH OF THE TIMBER TOWNS TO THE EAST THAT LOCALITY SOON DECLINED BY THE S &LAGSTAFF WAS THE MAIN TERMINUS CONNECTED TO THE CANYON BY THREE WEEKLY STAGES 4HE RAILROAD REACHED THE CANYON ITSELF VIA A BRANCH LINE FROM 7ILLIAMS IN 3EPTEMBER 4HAT TRIGGERED THE GROWTH OF 'RAND #ANYON 6ILLAGE BUILT UNDER THE AUSPICES
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OF THE &RED (ARVEY #OMPANY A SUBSIDIARY OF THE 3ANTA &E 2AILROAD AND DEPENDENT ON WATER CARRIED BY RAIL FROM $EL 2IO MILES AWAY 4HE COMPA NYS GRAND %L 4OVAR HOTEL n STILL THE SHOWPIECE CANYON EDGE LODGING n OPENED IN *ANUARY AND ITS EARLY MARKETING STRATEGIES INmUENCE THE EXPERIENCE OF CANYON VISITORS TO THIS DAY &OLLOWING AN INTERNAL MEMO TO hGET SOME )NDIANS TO THE #ANYON AT ONCE v THE COMPANY BUILT THE (OPI (OUSE SOUVENIR STORE MODELED ON THE (OPI VILLAGE OF /LD /RAIBI AND STAFFED IT WITH (OPI CRAFTSPEO PLE 3IMILARLY THE COMPANY EXHORTED .AVAJO WEAVERS TO PRODUCE RUGS TO SUIT TOURIST TASTES USING NONTRADITIONAL hEARTHv COLORS SUCH AS BROWN 0SEUDO 0UEBLO ARCHITECTURE BECAME THE DOMINANT THEME IN LINE WITH THE VISION OF ARCHITECT -ARY *ANE #OLTER SEE P ,ATE NINETEENTH CENTURY PROPOSALS TO CREATE A 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL 0ARK AROUSED VIGOROUS LOCAL OPPOSITION )N DUE COURSE HOWEVER NATURALIST *OHN -UIR n WHO HAD EARLIER CHAMPIONED 9OSEMITE 6ALLEY IN #ALIFORNIA AND DECLARED THE 'RAND #ANYON TO BE hUNEARTHLY x AS IF YOU HAD FOUND IT AFTER DEATH ON SOME OTHER STARv n FOUND A POWERFUL ALLY IN 4HEODORE 2OOSEVELT 0RESI DENTIAL AUTHORITY ONLY ENTITLED 2OOSEVELT TO PROTECT SITES OF HISTORICAL RATHER THAN GEOLOGIC INTEREST SO 2OOSEVELT USED THE PRETEXT OF PRESERVING !NCESTRAL 0UEBLOAN RUINS TO PROCLAIM 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL -ONUMENT IN (AVING FAILED TO PERSUADE THE 3UPREME #OURT TO OVERRULE THE PRESIDENT !RIZO NAN POLITICIANS lNALLY CAME AROUND TO THE IDEA OF A NATIONAL PARK AFTER !RIZONA ACHIEVED STATEHOOD IN %VEN SO BY THE TIME THE BOUNDARIES OF THE NEW 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL 0ARK WERE lXED IN THEY HAD TRIMMED AWAY LARGE TRACTS OF GRAZING LAND 4HE PARK ENCOMPASSED ONLY ABOUT SQUARE MILES AND INCLUDED JUST MILES OF THE ACTUAL CANYON -EANWHILE TOURISM TO THE 3OUTH 2IM INCREASED 2ALPH #AMERON HAD BEEN ACCUMULATING BOGUS MINING CLAIMS ALONG THE 3OUTH 2IM SINCE WHICH ENABLED HIM TO CHARGE A TOLL OF TO RIDERS USING THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL )N HE BUILT HIS OWN HOTEL BESIDE THE RAILROAD TERMINAL FORCING THE &RED (ARVEY #OMPANY TO RELOCATE THE STATION BEYOND SIGHT OF ITS UPSTART RIVAL 7HEN
©5 -ARY©*ANE©#OLTERS©ARCH©AND©BELL©AT©(ERMITS©2EST
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THE NATIONAL PARK CAME INTO BEING #AMERON CONTINUED TO BE A THORN IN ITS SIDE %LECTED TO THE 53 3ENATE IN HE SPENT A FEW YEARS HACKING AT THE PARKS BUDGET BEFORE HIS MINING CLAIMS WERE EVENTUALLY INVALIDATED (IS CONTROL OF THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL HAD BY THEN SPURRED DEVELOPMENT OF THE COMPETING +AIBAB 4RAIL WHICH STRETCHES FROM RIM TO RIM BY WAY OF THE +AIBAB 3USPENSION "RIDGE 0LANS TO PAVE THAT ROUTE NEVER MATERIALIZED BUT A SLIGHT ENLARGEMENT OF THE PARK IN PERMITTED CONSTRUCTION OF A ROAD EAST TO $ESERT 6IEW WHICH WITH COMPLETION IN OF .AVAJO "RIDGE ACROSS -ARBLE #ANYON REDUCED WHAT HAD BEEN A MILE DRIVE BETWEEN THE RIMS TO A MORE FEASIBLE MILES 4HE lRST AUTOMOBILE SHOWED UP AT THE CANYON IN DESPITE RUNNING OUT OF GAS TWENTY MILES SHORT "Y MORE VISITORS WERE COMING BY CAR THAN BY TRAIN AND &LAGSTAFF WAS ONCE AGAIN THE MAJOR GATEWAY "Y THE THRONGS OF VISITORS NECESSITATED ADVANCE RESERVATIONS FOR BOTH MULE RIDES AND LODGING !NNUAL VISITOR NUMBERS lRST EXCEEDED A MILLION IN AND RAN OVER lVE MILLION THROUGH MOST OF THE S !NTICIPATING THAT VISITATION WOULD CONTINUE TO INCREASE AT AN EXPONENTIAL RATE THE 0ARK 3ERVICE DREW UP PLANS AROUND THE TURN OF THE MILLENNIUM TO BUILD A LIGHT RAIL NETWORK AND A HUGE NEW TOURISM COMPLEX CLOSE TO THE 3OUTH 2IM TO BE KNOWN AS #ANYON &OREST 6ILLAGE (OWEVER VISITOR NUMBERS HAVE NOW DROPPED BACK BELOW lVE MILLION n NO ONES SURE WHY THOUGH THE DOWNWARD TREND HAS CONTINUED SINCE THE TERRORIST ATTACKS OF 3EPTEMBER n AND THE POLITICAL WILL TO MAKE MAJOR CHANGES SEEMS TO HAVE DISAPPEARED
%NVIRONMENTAL ISSUES 4HE BIGGEST ISSUES TO FACE THE 'RAND #ANYON DURING THE TWENTIETH CENTURY CENTERED ON THE ENVIRONMENT 4HE DAMMING OF "LACK #ANYON JUST WEST OF THE 'RAND #ANYON BY THE (OOVER $AM INSPIRED A SPREE OF DAM BUILDING IN THE 7ESTERN 53 "UREAU OF 2ECLAMATION PROPOSALS INCLUDED DAMMING THE 'REEN 2IVER IN NORTHWEST #OLORADO THE 3AN *UAN IN .EW -EXICO AND THE #OLORADO ITSELF AT BOTH !RIZONAS "RIDGE #ANYON AND 5TAHS 'LEN #ANYON 4HE AX EVENTUALLY FELL ON 'LEN #ANYON WHICH DESPITE PRAISE FROM *OHN 7ESLEY 0OWELL WAS ALMOST COMPLETELY UNKNOWN 4HE STORY OF THE CONSTRUCTION OF 'LEN #ANYON $AM AND CREATION OF ,AKE 0OWELL IS TOLD IN FULL ON P -OST ENVIRONMENTALISTS REGARD IT AS A DISASTER AND ITS EASY TO FORGET THAT ALTHOUGH THE 'RAND #ANYON ITSELF HAS NOT BEEN DAMMED THE DAM AT 'LEN #ANYON HAS UTTERLY CHANGED THE CHARACTER OF THE #OLORADO 2IVER AND THUS THE ECOLOGY OF THE INNER 'RAND #ANYON !T LEAST NO FURTHER DAMS HAVE BEEN BUILT GREEN ACTIVISTS FOR EXAMPLE HALTED PLANS TO CONSTRUCT THE "RIDGE #ANYON $AM ON THE (UALAPAI RESERVATION IN THE S DESPITE THE EAGERNESS OF THE (UALAPAI THEMSELVES SEE P #OMMERCIAL LOGGING AND MINING WERE lNALLY BANNED FROM THE 'RAND #ANYON WHEN THE PARK BOUNDARIES WERE REDRAWN AND ENLARGED IN 0RESI DENT #LINTON FOLLOWED 2OOSEVELTS EXAMPLE IN BY USING HIS PRESIDENTIAL PREROGATIVE TO PROTECT TWO VAST ENCLAVES WITHIN THE OVERALL 'RAND #ANYON ECOSYSTEM PROCLAIMING THE ACRE 6ERMILION #LIFFS .ATIONAL -ONU MENT SEE P AND THE MILLION ACRE 'RAND #ANYONn0ARASHANT .ATIONAL -ONUMENT SEE P &EARS PERSIST HOWEVER THAT URANIUM MINING MAY RETURN TO AREAS JUST OUTSIDE THE PARK ALONG THE 3OUTH 2IM AS EVIDENCED BY (AVASUPAI CONCERN OVER THE PROSPECTIVE #ANYON -INE SEE P
'EOLOGY
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HE MEREST GLANCE AT THE 'RAND #ANYON REVEALS THAT THIS VAST LANDSCAPE IS COMPOSED OF LAYER UPON LAYER OF DIFFERENT KINDS OF ROCK EACH WITH ITS OWN DISTINCT COLOR AND TEXTURE 3OME LAYERS FORM THIN STRIPES SOME SHEER CLIFFS HUNDREDS OF FEET TALL OTHERS VARY IN WIDTH AND IN PLACES MAY DISAP PEAR ALTOGETHER 4AKEN AS A WHOLE HOWEVER THE CONSISTENCY OF THESE HORIZONTAL BANDS IDENTIlABLE THROUGHOUT THE CANYON ACTS AS A REASSURING COUNTERPOINT TO THE BEWILDERING COMPLEXITY OF THE TERRAIN WITH ITS TANGLE OF BUTTES MESAS AND SIDE CANYONS 'EOLOGISTS OFTEN TALK OF hREADINGv THE VARIOUS STRATA LIKE A BOOK WHICH TELLS THE STORY NOT ONLY OF THE CANYON BUT ALSO OF THE EARTH ITSELF 7HAT MAKES THE 'RAND #ANYON SUCH A GOOD READ IS THAT ITS VERY RARE FOR SUCH AN EVEN UNDISTURBED SET OF ROCK LAYERS TO EXIST SO HIGH ABOVE SEA LEVEL AND UNIQUE FOR THEM TO BE EXPOSED TO VIEW TO SUCH AN AMAZING DEPTH #OMMON SENSE TELLS US THAT THE DEEPEST LAYERS ARE THE OLDEST AND THE SAGA DOES INDEED START AT THE BOTTOM ALMOST TWO BILLION YEARS AGO 7HATS LESS OBVIOUS HOWEVER IS THAT IN GEOLOGIC TERMS THE CANYON IS NOT OLD BUT VERY NEW 4HE PROCESSES THAT PUT ALL THOSE BURIED STRATA INTO PLACE WERE ENTIRELY SEPARATE FROM THOSE THAT CREATED THE CANYON ITSELF !T VARIOUS TIMES THE REGION THAT NOW HOLDS THE 'RAND #ANYON HAS LAIN UNDER WATER OR AT THE EDGE OF A VERY DIFFERENT CONTINENT OR EVEN EMBEDDED IN THE PLANETS ONE MASSIVE SUPERCONTINENT !S IT SWIRLED AROUND THE GLOBE IT ALSO SPENT LONG PERIODS AT THE EQUATOR 5NTIL LESS THAN SIX MILLION YEARS AGO THERE WAS NO CANYON HERE 4HEN THE #OLORADO 0LATEAU STARTED TO RISE SOMEHOW CLIMBING SEVERAL THOUSAND FEET WITHOUT GREATLY DEFORMING ITS THICK LAYERS OF SEDIMENTARY ROCK AND ITS MANY RIVERS BEGAN TO CUT DEEPER AND DEEPER 7HILE SCIENTISTS STILL CANT DECIDE QUITE HOW IT HAPPENED THE CANYON TOOK SHAPE QUICKLY )T HAD ACQUIRED ESSENTIALLY ITS PRESENT FORM A MILLION YEARS AGO AND SINCE THEN HAS ONLY BURROWED A FURTHER lFTY FEET ! NEW PHASE BEGAN IN WHEN COMPLETION OF THE 'LEN #ANYON $AM RENDERED THE #OLORADO 2IVER BARELY CAPABLE OF MAINTAINING THE CANYON LET ALONE ENLARGING IT
4HE STORY IN THE STONE !LMOST EVERY ROCK LAYER VISIBLE FROM THE RIM OF THE 'RAND #ANYON IS SEDIMEN TARY AND WAS ORIGINALLY DEPOSITED ON THE BED OR ALONG THE SHORELINE OF A SHAL LOW PRIMEVAL SEA 3UCH ROCKS CAN BE FURTHER SUBDIVIDED INTO SANDSTONE WHICH CONSISTS MOSTLY OF SAND PERHAPS MIXED WITH A LITTLE SILT OR CLAY AND CEMENTED WITH SILICA OR CALCITE LIMESTONE WHICH IS LARGELY BIOLOGICAL COMPRISING DEAD SEA CREATURES AND THEIR SHELLS AND MUDSTONE SUCH AS SHALE AND SILTSTONE CARRIED DOWN TO THE SEA BY RIVERS AS MOUNTAIN RANGES RISE AND FALL 4HERE ARE TWO OTHER TYPES OF ROCK IN THE CANYON )GNEOUS lRE FORMED ROCKS WELL UP FROM THE DEPTHS OF THE %ARTH BOTH IN THE OCEAN ALONG THE EDGES OF THE LITHOSPHERIC PLATES THAT HOLD THE SEPARATE CONTINENTS AND VIA VOLCANIC ACTION ON THE SURFACE -ETAMORPHIC ROCKS ARE THOSE THAT HAVE BEEN ALTERED BY HEAT AND PRESSURE OVER TIME WHICH HAPPENS ESPECIALLY WHEN CONTINENTS COLLIDE 4HE OLDEST ROCKS OF ALL IN THE 6ISHNU SCHIST LAYER ARE BOTH IGNEOUS AND META MORPHIC 4HIS GNARLED DENSE BED OF DARK GRANITE n WHICH IS NOT ONLY EXPOSED AT RIVER LEVEL BUT FORMS THE ENTIRE THOUSAND FOOT DEEP 'RANITE 'ORGE n WAS
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©5 4HE©UPPERMOST©STRATA©OF©THE©'RAND©#ANYON ©AT©"RIGHT©!NGEL©0OINT
ORIGINALLY DEPOSITED BY LAVA mOWS BILLION YEARS AGO 7HILE THAT MAKES IT OLD BY ANY STANDARD THE OLDEST VISIBLE ROCKS ON THE PLANET DATING BACK ALMOST FOUR BILLION YEARS LIE ALONG THE SHORE OF THE 'REAT 3LAVE ,AKE IN #ANADAS .ORTHWEST 4ERRITORIES 4HE 6ISHNU SCHIST SUBSEQUENTLY METAMORPHOSED WHEN THE SEABED ON WHICH IT RESTED COLLIDED WITH WHAT BECAME THE .ORTH !MERICAN CONTINENT AROUND BILLION YEARS AGO AND THE SCHIST BECAME THREADED WITH VEINS OF PINK :OROASTER GRANITE ,IFE HAD ALREADY ESTABLISHED ITS lRST TENTATIVE FOOTHOLD ON %ARTH DURING THIS 0RECAMBRIAN %RA BUT NO FOSSILS COULD HOPE TO SURVIVE SUCH AN INFERNO OF MOLTEN ROCK )N PARTS BUT NOT ALL OF THE CANYON A FURTHER MEDLEY OF BOTH IGNEOUS AND SEDI MENTARY 0RECAMBRIAN ROCKS LIES IMMEDIATELY ABOVE THE 6ISHNU SCHIST 7HERE IT EXISTS FOR EXAMPLE IN THE $ESERT 6IEW VICINITY THIS 'RAND #ANYON 3UPER GROUP IS IMMEDIATELY RECOGNIZABLE BECAUSE UNUSUALLY FOR THE CANYON THE NORMALLY HORIZONTAL STRATA ARE TILTED AT A TWENTY DEGREE ANGLE )F WE THINK OF EACH LAYER AS BEING A PAGE OF THE CANYONS GREAT GEOLOGIC TEXT BOOK THEN WE HAVE TO BEAR IN MIND THAT MANY PAGES ARE MISSING ALTOGETHER *UST AS THERE ARE ERAS WHEN NEW STRATA ARE BEING ADDED THERE ARE ALSO PERIODS LIKE OUR OWN WHEN NOT ONLY IS NOTHING NEW BEING DEPOSITED BUT PREEXISTING LAYERS LIE EXPOSED TO THE ELEMENTS AND ERODE AWAY 3UCH GAPS IN THE RECORD ARE KNOWN AS UNCONFORMITIES 4HE MOST OBVIOUS DUBBED THE 'REAT 5NCONFORMITY BY *OHN 7ESLEY 0OWELL IS THE LINE THAT SEPARATES THE 0RECAMBRIAN ROCKS OF THE INNER GORGE FROM THE SEDIMENTARY STRATA OF THE 0ALEOZOIC %RA ABOVE )TS ESPECIALLY STRIKING WHEN THE 'RAND #ANYON 3UPERGROUP IS ABSENT REPRESENTING AN INTER LUDE OF A BILLION YEARS $URING THE 0ALEOZOIC %POCH WHICH LASTED FROM MILLION UNTIL MILLION YEARS AGO MUCH OF WHATS NOW .ORTH !MERICA WAS COVERED BY WATER 4HE OLDEST 0ALEOZOIC GROUPS CONSIST OF THREE CONSECUTIVE STRATA n 4APEATS SANDSTONE "RIGHT !NGEL SHALE AND -UAV LIMESTONE n WHICH COLLECTIVELY FORM THE 4ONTO 'ROUP AS SEEN IN THE BROAD 4ONTO 0LATFORM AT FT %ACH IN TURN WAS CREATED FARTHER OFFSHORE WHICH IS THOUGHT TO REmECT INCREASINGLY HIGH WATER LEVELS POSSIBLY DUE TO MELTING POLAR ICE CAPS .EXT COMES ANOTHER UNCONFORMITY FOLLOWED BY THE 4EMPLE "UTTE &ORMA TION FROM THE $EVONIAN %RA AND THE DISTINCTIVE 2EDWALL LIMESTONE LAYER
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RESPONSIBLE FOR THE FT CLIFFS THAT POSE SUCH A PROBLEM ON MANY INNER CANYON TRAILS $ESPITE ITS NAMESAKE COLOR THE 2EDWALL IS NOT NATURALLY RED BUT DYED BY LEACHING FROM THE IRON RICH ROCKS OF THE THICK 3UPAI 'ROUP ABOVE 4HESE MINGLE LIMESTONE SANDSTONE SHALE AND SILTSTONE TESTIFYING TO AN ERA WHEN THE COASTLINE REPEATEDLY ROSE AND FELL 4HE 0ALEOZOIC ENDS WITH A lNAL FOUR PART SEQUENCE (ERMIT SHALE LEFT BY RIVERS ON A COASTAL PLAIN PALE #OCONINO SANDSTONE THE SOLIDIlED DUNES FROM A WINDSWEPT ANCIENT DESERT THE 4OROWEAP &ORMATION A MIXTURE OF LIMESTONE AND SHALE THAT ONCE MORE LAY BENEATH THE WAVES AND THE +AIBAB &ORMATION A SIMILAR BUT HARDER BLEND THAT TOPS THE CANYON RIM ALL THE WAY FROM ,EES &ERRY TO THE HEART OF THE NATIONAL PARK !ND THERE THE STORY STOPS ROUGHLY MILLION YEARS AGO AT WHICH POINT ALL THE WORLDS LANDMASSES WERE JAMMED TOGETHER IN A GIANT SUPERCONTINENT KNOWN AS 0ANGAEA !LTHOUGH ONLY THE TINIEST TRACES OF ANYTHING NEWER SURVIVE AT THE 'RAND #ANYON ITS THOUGHT THAT ANOTHER FOUR OR lVE THOUSAND FEET OF ROCK WAS DEPOSITED ON TOP DURING THE -ESOZOIC %RA 4HOSE ARE THE ROCKS THAT FORM THE .AVAJO SANDSTONE OF !RIZONAS SPECTACULAR #ANYON DE #HELLY AND THE MULTI COLORED SHALES OF THE NEARBY 0AINTED $ESERT 4HE CANYON IS RICH IN MARINE FOSSILS BUT IT HOLDS NOTHING FROM THE AGE OF THE DINOSAURS WHICH ENDED A MERE MILLION YEARS AGO 4HOSE lNAL BLANK PAGES DO HOLD ONE LAST FOOTNOTE HOWEVER ! SERIES OF LAVA CASCADES INUNDATED THE WESTERN CANYON DURING THE LAST THREE MILLION YEARS CULMINATING AROUND MILLION YEARS AGO WHEN THE LARGEST mOW CREATED THE 0ROSPECT $AM 4HAT BACKED UP THE #OLORADO INTO A LAKE THAT STRETCHED EVEN FARTHER UPSTREAM THAN MODERN DAY ,AKE 0OWELL AND TOOK AROUND TWENTY THOUSAND YEARS TO ERODE AWAY 6OLCANOES REMAIN ACTIVE IN THE VICINITY 3UNSET #RATER NEAR &LAGSTAFF SEE P LAST ERUPTED IN
4HE POWER OF EROSION 4HE PHYSICAL MECHANISMS THAT HAVE SCULPTED THE 'RAND #ANYON ARE WELL UNDER STOOD NOT LEAST BECAUSE THEY REMAIN ACTIVE TODAY !LL FALL UNDER THE BROAD HEAD ING OF EROSION WITH WATER AS THE DOMINANT FORCE 7HATEVER INTUITION MIGHT SUGGEST HOWEVER THE #OLORADO 2IVER ALONE DID NOT CARVE THE CANYON 4HE RIVER ONLY OPERATES AT RIVER LEVEL SO WHILE ITS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE DEPTH OF THE CANYON n AND CONTINUES TO SCOUR ITS WAY DEEPER n IT DID LITTLE TO CREATE ITS WIDTH 4HE FANTASTIC PYRAMIDS AND MESAS THAT TOWER ABOVE THE CENTRAL GORGE ARE THE RESULT OF THE INTERPLAY OF WATER WIND GRAVITY AND EXTREME CYCLES OF HEAT AND COLD %ROSION IS OFTEN PICTURED AS A GRADUAL PROCESS UNDER WHICH GRAINS OF SAND TUMBLE ONE BY ONE FROM THE RIM )N FACT THE CANYON HAS BEEN SHAPED TO A MUCH GREATER EXTENT BY CATACLYSMIC EVENTS NONE MORE SO THAN mASH mOODS 4HE VERY FACT THAT THE 'RAND #ANYON SITS AMID A DESERT MEANS THAT WHAT RAIN DOES FALL CAN HAVE A DISPROPORTIONATE IMPACT 4HERES LITTLE SOIL COVER TO ABSORB THE MONSOON LIKE THUNDERSTORMS THAT HIT THE REGION EACH YEAR ESPECIALLY IN LATE *ULY AND !UGUST )NSTEAD THEY POUR ONTO BARE STONE AND QUICKLY GATHER INTO STORM CHANNELS THAT FEED IN TURN INTO SIDE CANYONS AND THE MAIN CANYON 6AST QUANTI TIES OF MUD AND ROCK ARE PICKED UP AND SWEPT ALONG IN THESE VIOLENT UPHEAVALS WIDENING THE OLD ROUTES DOWN TO THE RIVER AND BATTERING OUT NEW ONES !N EVEN MORE FEARSOME PHENOMENON IS DEBRIS mOW IN WHICH A MORASS OF GRAVEL STONE AND SAND BECOMES SUFlCIENTLY SODDEN AFTER RAINS THAT IT BEGINS TO
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mOW LIKE CONCRETE 3UCH mOWS OCCUR SOMEWHERE IN THE CANYON ROUGHLY TWICE EVERY YEAR /NE CREATED #RYSTAL 2APID IN ANOTHER IN -ONUMENT #REEK IN THREW BOULDERS WEIGHING AS MUCH TONS EACH INTO THE #OLORADO 3UBTLER ACTIVITY CAN PRODUCE EQUALLY SPECTACULAR RESULTS 3OME OF THE WATER THAT FALLS AS RAIN OR SNOW lNDS ITS WAY INTO CRACKS IN THE EARTH !S IT SUBSEQUENTLY FREEZES AND EXPANDS THE WATER CHISELS VAST SLABS OF STONE AWAY FROM THEIR MOOR INGS UNSEEN AND UNSUSPECTED UNTIL ONE DAY A MIGHTY ROCKFALL SHATTERS THE PEACE OF THE CANYON -ANY OF THE SIDE CANYONS IN WHICH SO MUCH OF THIS ACTIVITY TAKES PLACE FOLLOW COURSES ORIGINALLY CREATED BY EARTHQUAKES AND ONLY LATER WIDENED BY WATER SEISMIC ACTION INCLUDING THE OCCASIONAL EARTHQUAKE STILL CONTINUES -AJOR CRACKS INCLUDE THE "RIGHT !NGEL &AULT WHICH MADE POSSIBLE THE CORRIDOR HIKING TRAILS BETWEEN THE 3OUTH AND .ORTH RIMS AND THE 4OROWEAP &AULT DOWNSTREAM 4HE SIDE CANYONS TEND TO BE SO BARREN AND DRY THAT VISITORS ARE INCLINED TO THINK OF THEM AS SOMEHOW PERIPHERAL TO THE 'RAND #ANYON PROPER SEE THEM ROAR INTO LIFE AFTER A STORM AND YOULL BE IN NO DOUBT AS TO THE IMPOR TANT PART THEYVE PLAYED IN ITS CREATION 4HE EFFECTS OF EROSION VARY ACCORDING TO THE DIFFERENT ROCK STRATA #LIFFS ARE USUALLY COMPOSED OF SANDSTONE OR LIMESTONE DEPOSITED IN BROAD BANDS WHICH ERODE SLOWLY WHEREAS SLOPES COMPRISE CONSTANTLY CRUMBLING SHALES !SSORTED COMBINATIONS OF ROCK PILED UP LIKE A LAYER CAKE AND ERODING AT DIFFERING SPEEDS HAVE RESULTED IN THE BIZARRE MONUMENTS SO CONSPICUOUS TOWARD THE EASTERN END OF THE CANYON "ROAD mAT HARD CAPPED MESAS ERODE TO FORM SMALLER BUTTES TALLER THAN THEY ARE WIDE OR POTENTIALLY THE PYRAMIDS KNOWN AT THE 'RAND #ANYON AS TEMPLES )T WAS #LARENCE $UTTON A STUDENT OF COMPARATIVE RELIGION WHO WROTE THE lRST 'EOLOGICAL 3URVEY REPORT ON THE CANYON IN WHO STARTED THE CUSTOM OF NAMING PROMINENT CANYON FEATURES n "RAHMA 4EMPLE 3HIVA 4EMPLE 6ISHNU 4EMPLE AND SO ON n FOR RELIGIOUS ARCHITECTURE (ONOR ING HIS TRADITION WERE LATER CARTOGRAPHERS SUCH AS &RAN OIS -ATTHES WHO NAMED +RISHNA 3HRINE AND 7ALHALLA 0LATEAU 4O RETURN lNALLY TO THE #OLORADO 2IVER EVEN IF IT HASNT BEEN AS INSTRUMENTAL AN EROSIVE FORCE THE CRUCIAL ROLE IT HAS PLAYED IS TO CARRY ALL THE DEBRIS AWAY )T WOULD TAKE AROUND A THOUSAND CUBIC MILES OF ROCK TO lLL IN THE 'RAND #ANYON AS WE SEE IT TODAY AND THATS HOW MUCH THE #OLORADO HAS REMOVED /RIGINALLY THE DEBRIS WAS DEPOSITED TOWARD THE RIVER MOUTH IN THE 'ULF OF #ALIFORNIA THUS RENEWING THE SEDIMENTATION CYCLE !FTER THE #OLORADO SET ABOUT lLL ING IN ,AKE -EAD BEHIND THE (OOVER $AM 7HAT NOW WORRIES SCIENTISTS IS THAT THE #OLORADO SIMPLY ISNT ITSELF ANYMORE &LASH mOODS STILL SWEEP THE SIDE CANYONS AND HURL DEBRIS INTO THE RIVER BUT THE COLD STEADY STREAM THATS ALLOWED THROUGH THE 'LEN #ANYON $AM NO LONGER EXPERIENCES SURGES OF ITS OWN AND IT NO LONGER HAS THE BRUTE STRENGTH NECESSARY TO CLEAR AWAY OBSTACLES THROWN INTO ITS PATH !NY YEAR NOW SOME NEW DEBRIS mOW MAY CREATE A MONSTER RAPID THE #OLORADO CANT REMOVE
4HE CREATION OF THE CANYON
$ESPITE THEIR SUCCESS IN EXPLAINING HOW THE CANYONS BUILDING BLOCKS WERE PUT IN PLACE AND EVEN HOW THEY SUBSEQUENTLY ERODED AWAY AGAIN GEOLOGISTS HAVE YET TO AGREE HOW THE CANYON ITSELF CAME INTO BEING !T LEAST THEY KNOW WHAT SET THE BALL ROLLING THE ,ARAMIDE /ROGENY WHICH BEGAN AT THE END OF THE -ESO ZOIC %RA MILLION YEARS AGO !N OROGENY IS AN ONGOING PERIOD OF UPHEAVAL
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AND MOUNTAIN BUILDING THIS ONE SPARKED WHEN THE 0ACIlC PLATE COLLIDED WITH AND SLIPPED BENEATH THE .ORTH !MERICAN PLATE WAS PRIMARILY RESPONSIBLE FOR CREATING THE 2OCKY -OUNTAINS BUT ALSO DELINEATED THE #OLORADO 0LATEAU 7ITHIN THE PAST lVE OR SIX MILLION YEARS THE PLATEAU HAS RAPIDLY RISEN SEVERAL THOUSAND FEET WHILE ITS RIVERS THE #OLORADO AMONG THEM HAVE CARVED EVER DEEPER INTO THE EARTH 4HE CRUCIAL MYSTERY HOWEVER IS THAT THE #OLORADO 0LATEAU IN THE 'RAND #ANYON REGION IS NOT mAT )TS AN ENORMOUS HILL KNOWN AS THE +AIBAB 0LATEAU FROM A 0AIUTE WORD MEANING hMOUNTAIN WITH NO PEAKv WHICH SLOPES SOUTH WARD FROM A RIDGE THAT RUNS ROUGHLY A DOZEN MILES NORTH OF THE .ORTH 2IM MORE OR LESS ALONG THE NATIONAL PARK BOUNDARY 4HE #OLORADO HAS EATEN AWAY A CHUNK OF THE HILLSIDE ABOUT A THIRD OF THE WAY UP THE SOUTHERN SLOPE n WHICH EXPLAINS WHY THE .ORTH 2IM IS A THOUSAND FEET HIGHER THAN THE 3OUTH 4HE PIVOTAL POINT IN THE COURSE OF THE MODERN #OLORADO COMES WHEN IT HITS THE +AIBAB 0LATEAU CLOSE TO $ESERT 6IEW WHERE RATHER THAN VEERING AWAY PERHAPS TO THE SOUTHEAST IT TURNS WEST AND CUTS DIRECTLY INTO THE PLATEAU 7HY OR HOW THE #OLORADO 2IVER SLICES STRAIGHT THROUGH THAT HILL HAS LONG TAXED THE SCIENTIlC IMAGINATION 4HE OLDEST SERIOUS THEORY PROPOSED THAT THE #OLORADO WAS WHATS CALLED AN hANTECEDENTv RIVER WHICH HAS ALWAYS FOLLOWED ITS MODERN COURSE AND SIMPLY REMAINED IN PLACE AS THE PLATEAU ROSE AROUND IT ! MORE SUBTLE RElNEMENT DESCRIBES A PROCESS OF hSUPERPOSITION v SUGGESTING THAT THE RIVER PREVIOUSLY RAN ATOP NEW EVEN LAYERS OF SEDIMENT THAT HAD SMOTHERED THE HILLS AND UPLIFTS WE SEE TODAY AND THAT WHEN THE PLATEAU ROSE IT WORE AWAY THOSE UPPER LAYERS TO REVEAL THE HILLS INCLUDING THE +AIBAB 0LATEAU THAT WE lND SO PUZZLING TODAY 4HE TROUBLE WITH BOTH THEORIES IS THAT THE #OLORADO PREDATES NEITHER THE RECENT UPLIFT NOR THE CANYON THEY HAVE ALL GROWN UP TOGETHER !LL HYPOTHESES CURRENTLY IN FAVOR ARGUE FOR SOME FORM OF hSTREAM PIRACY v IN WHICH THE #OLORADO ORIGINALLY FOLLOWED SOME OTHER COURSE BUT WAS LATER hCAPTUREDv BY ANOTHER RIVER AND BEGAN TO mOW IN THAT DIRECTION INSTEAD 3UCH A CAPTURE MIGHT HAVE OCCURRED WHEN A POWERFUL STREAM AT THE HEAD OF ITS OWN CANYON EVENTUALLY CUT SO FAR BACK THAT IT BREACHED THE STONE BARRIER THAT SEPA RATED IT FROM THE #OLORADO 4HE #OLORADO WOULD THEN RUSH THROUGH ABANDON ING ITS OWN COURSE AND USURPING THIS ALTERNATIVE CHANNEL 7HILE IT HAS BEEN SHOWN THAT UNTIL lVE MILLION YEARS AGO THE ANCESTRAL #OLO RADO 2IVER DID INDEED SKIRT THE +AIBAB 0LATEAU ITS NOT KNOWN QUITE WHERE IT WENT 3UGGESTIONS THAT IT USED TO mOW DOWN THE GORGE OF THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO TO MEET THE 2IO 'RANDE HAVE LARGELY BEEN ABANDONED DUE TO LACK OF EVIDENCE AS HAS THE IDEA THAT ALL OF NORTHERN !RIZONAS RIVERS MAY ONCE HAVE mOWED IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION )TS NOW THOUGHT MOST LIKELY THAT THE #OLORADO CIRCLED THE SOUTHERN EDGE OF THE +AIBAB AND THEN CONTINUED NORTHWEST !S GROUND LEVELS TO THE SOUTHWEST SUBSIDED IN TANDEM WITH THE UPLIFT OF THE #OLORADO 0LATEAU NEW RIVERS BEGAN TO mOW DOWN TO THE 'ULF OF #ALIFORNIA )N SOME LONG DISAPPEARED SPOT ONE SUCH RIVER EVENTUALLY CAPTURED AND THUS BECAME THE #OLORADO 4HE 'RAND #ANYON WAS BORN
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ONSIDERING THAT THE 'RAND #ANYON MEASURES ALMOST THREE HUNDRED MILES IN LENGTH AND RANGES EIGHT THOUSAND FEET IN DEPTH FROM THE HIGH EST POINT ON THE .ORTH 2IM TO THE LOWEST ELEVATION AT ,AKE -EAD ITS HARDLY SURPRISING THAT IT SHELTERS A TREMENDOUS ASSORTMENT OF PLANT AND ANIMAL LIFE .ATURALLY ALL SHARE ONE BASIC TRAIT 4HEYVE ADAPTED TO SURVIVE IN A DESERT WHERE THE LOW RAINFALL n AROUND lFTEEN INCHES PER YEAR ON THE 3OUTH 2IM AND TWICE THAT ON THE .ORTH n ENSURES THAT THE SOIL COVER IS POOR WHERE IT EXISTS AT ALL 7ITHIN THOSE PARAMETERS HOWEVER THE RANGE OF LIFE FORMS AND ENVI RONMENTS IS BREATHTAKING WITH SUCH TREATS IN STORE FOR VISITORS AS THE SPECTACLE OF AN AMAZING #ALIFORNIA CONDOR SOARING ABOVE THE RIM OR THE LUSH HIDDEN OASES THAT PUNCTUATE THE CACTUS STUDDED PLATEAUS OF THE INNER CANYON )T WAS AT THE 'RAND #ANYON WITH ITS CLEARLY STRATIlED LAYERS THAT SCIENTISTS lRST REALIZED THAT JUST AS DIFFERENT GROUPS OF PLANTS AND ANIMALS INHABIT DIFFERENT LATITUDES BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND THE POLES SO TOO ARE DIFFERENT COLLECTIONS OF SPECIES FOUND AT THE VARIOUS LEVELS OF A MOUNTAINSIDE OR CANYON 4HE CRUCIAL FACTOR IS OF COURSE TEMPERATURE )N THE CANYON ALTITUDE SUBSTITUTES FOR LATITUDE THE HIGHER THE ELEVATION THE COOLER THE TEMPERATURE 4HE lRST SCIENTIST TO DESCRIBE AND NAME THE DISTINCT LIFE ZONES WAS #LINTON -ERRIAM OF THE 53 "IOLOGICAL 3URVEY !FTER VISITING THE 'RAND #ANYON IN HE ANNOUNCED THAT ITS RANGE OF HABITATS CORRESPONDED TO THOSE ENCOUNTERED IN A TRIP FROM THE DESERTS OF -EXICO TO THE FORESTS OF THE #ANADIAN MOUNTAINS (IS WORK REMAINS THE BASIS FOR ACCOUNTS OF CANYON WILDLIFE TO THIS DAY THOUGH AS HE POINTED OUT MUCH MORE THAN JUST ELEVATION DETERMINES WHAT WILL SURVIVE WHERE 4HE TEMPERATURE AT ANY ONE SPOT ALSO VARIES ACCORDING TO HOW MUCH DIRECT SUNLIGHT IT RECEIVES WHICH ITSELF DEPENDS ON THE ANGLE OF THE SLOPE AND THE DIRECTION IN WHICH IT FACES LOCALIZED MOISTURE FROM SPRINGS OR STREAMS AND HOW EXPOSED IT IS TO THE HOT AND COLD AIR CURRENTS THAT RISE AND FALL WITHIN THE CANYON %ARLY EXPLORERS IMAGINED THAT MIRACULOUS CREATURES MIGHT LURK IN THE CANYONS RECESSES 3ADLY TWENTIETH CENTURY EXPEDITIONS DISPROVED TALES OF TINY HORSES lNDING ONLY SOME RATHER STUNTED AND VERY THIRSTY ONES AND OF hLOST WORLDSv ATOP SUCH LONE ISOLATED SUMMITS AS 3HIVA 4EMPLE 4HE CANYON DOES HOWEVER OFFER SOME FASCINATING CASES OF DIVERGENT EVOLUTION SUCH AS THE DISTINCT SPECIES OF SQUIRREL THAT INHABITS THE .ORTH AND 3OUTH RIMS
.ORTH 2IM
!T BETWEEN AND FT ABOVE SEA LEVEL THE HIGHEST PORTIONS OF 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL 0ARK ALONG AND JUST BACK FROM THE .ORTH 2IM BELONG TO THE BOREAL ZONE !S IN THE FORESTS OF #ANADA THE TREE POPULATION HERE CONSISTS LARGELY OF ASPEN SPRUCE AND lR THOUGH HIGHER ELEVATIONS ALSO HOLD $OUGLAS lR n WHICH IS NOT A TRUE lR BUT IS CAPABLE OF GROWING FT TALL n WHILE PONDE ROSA PINES APPEAR CLOSER TO THE RIM 2ELATIVELY HIGH PRECIPITATION HAS RESULTED IN RICHER SOIL AND THE DENSE WOODLANDS OF THE PLATEAU ARE INTERSPERSED WITH ALPINE MEADOWS 4HESE SUPPORT WILDmOWERS SUCH AS ASTERS AND SUNmOWERS AND ALSO HOLD BURROWING CREATURES LIKE WEASELS AND VOLES WHICH IN TURN ATTRACT THEIR OWN PREDATORS
! THOUSAND FEET LOWER THAN THE .ORTH 2IM THE 3OUTH 2IM OCCUPIES WHATS CALLED THE TRANSITIONAL ZONE (ERE SPRUCE AND lR GIVE WAY TO PONDEROSA PINES INTERSPERSED WITH SUCH SPECIES AS 'AMBEL OAK THE ONLY TREE TO LOSE ITS LEAVES IN WINTER AMID ALL THE CANYONS EVERGREENS 4HE LARGEST INHABITANTS OF THE PONDEROSA FOREST ARE ELK FOR WHICH THE ONLY PURE PONDEROSA STAND ON THE 3OUTH 2IM ITSELF NEAR 'RANDVIEW 0OINT IS A FAVORED HAUNT !MONG SMALLER SPECIES WHICH INCLUDE SKUNKS CHIPMUNKS RABBITS AND PORCUPINES PERHAPS THE MOST UBIQUITOUS IS THE !BERTS SQUIRREL WHICH EXISTS IN MUTUAL DEPENDENCE WITH THE PONDEROSA EATING ITS BARK POLLEN AND SEEDS BY FAILING TO lND ALL THE SEEDS IT BURIES THE SQUIRREL UNWITTINGLY PLANTS NEW GENERATIONS OF TREES )N THE BEST KNOWN INSTANCE OF HOW DISTINCT SPECIES HAVE EVOLVED ON OPPOSITE SIDES OF THE CANYON THE CORRESPONDING +AIBAB SQUIRREL IS ONLY FOUND ON THE .ORTH 2IM /NCE THE RIVER SEPARATED THESE TWO POPULATIONS NO FURTHER INTERBREEDING COULD TAKE PLACE "OTH SPECIES HAVE TASSELED EARS BUT THE !BERTS SQUIRREL HAS A REDDISH BACK AND A DARK TAIL WITH A WHITE UNDERBELLY WHILE THE +AIBAB SQUIRREL IS DARK GRAY WITH A WHITE BUSHY TAIL "ELOW THE PONDEROSAS COMES THE STUNTED PYGMY FOREST OF PI×ON ALSO SPELLED PINYON PINE AND 5TAH JUNIPER THATS CHARACTERISTIC OF THE 5PPER 3ONORAN ZONE WHICH STARTS ABOVE THE 3OUTH 2IM BUT BENEATH THE .ORTH 2IM %ACH OF THESE GNARLED DESICCATED TREES WHICH GROW TO BETWEEN TWENTY AND THIRTY FEET AND LIVE FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS DEPENDS FOR SURVIVAL ON ITS OWN ATTENDANT BIRD SPECIES 4HE PI×ON JAY HARVESTS AND BURIES NUTS FROM THE PI×ON
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)N THE HUNDRED YEARS SINCE 4HEODORE 2OOSEVELT lRST PROTECTED IT WITHIN A NATIONAL MONUMENT THE ECOLOGY OF THE .ORTH 2IM HAS BEEN PARTICULARLY AFFECTED BY 0ARK 3ERVICE ATTEMPTS AT MANAGEMENT 4HE LONGSTANDING POLICY OF SUPPRESSING WILDlRES HAS HAD AN ADVERSE EFFECT ON THE PONDEROSAS 7ITHOUT THE NATURAL lRES THAT SHOULD SWEEP THROUGH REGULARLY TO ELIMINATE NEEDLES AND BRUSH FROM THE FOREST mOOR DEBRIS ACCUMULATES TO LEVELS WHERE IT CAN FUEL A MAJOR CONmAGRATION THAT BURNS LONG ENOUGH TO KILL THE PINES )N RECENT YEARS THE PARK HAS MOVED TOWARD SETTING ITS OWN hCONTROLLED BURNSv AND ALLOWING NATURAL lRES TO BLAZE AWAY n EVEN THOUGH THE CHARRED LANDSCAPE SPOILS THE LOOK OF THE PLACE FOR VISITORS ! NOTORIOUS EXAMPLE OF EARLY WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT TECHNIQUES CENTERS ON THE MULE DEER OF THE .ORTH 2IM 2OOSEVELTS PRIORITY IN hPROTECTINGv THE DEER WAS TO PRESERVE THEM FOR SPORT HUNTERS SUCH AS HIMSELF .ATURAL PREDATORS LIKE MOUNTAIN LIONS WOLVES AND COYOTES WERE THEREFORE TO BE ELIMINATED A SINGLE WARDEN *AMES /WENS SHOT LIONS OVER TWELVE YEARS (ISTORY RECORDS THAT THE DEER POPULATION THEN MUSHROOMED FROM FOUR THOUSAND TO A HUNDRED THOUSAND AND STRIPPED THE +AIBAB 0LATEAU BARE BEFORE STARVING TO DEATH EN MASSE DURING THE WINTER OF n !LTHOUGH THOSE lGURES ARE NOW BEING QUESTIONED WITH SCIENTISTS SUGGESTING THAT SUCH BOOM AND BUST CYCLES MAY BE A NORMAL FEATURE OF WILD DEER HERDS THE 0ARK 3ERVICE HAS ABANDONED THE IDEA OF CULLING PREDATORS AND HUNTING IS NO LONGER PERMITTED 4HE WOLVES NEVER RETURNED n AND AS YET THERES BEEN NO MOVE TO REINTRODUCE THEM AS AT 9ELLOWSTONE n BUT THERE ARE NOW THOUGHT TO BE AROUND A HUNDRED LIONS ON THE .ORTH 2IM AS WELL AS PLENTIFUL COYOTE
WHILE THE 4OWNSENDS SOLITAIRE EATS JUNIPER BERRIES AND THEN EXCRETES THE SEEDS THEY CONTAIN *UST TO ILLUSTRATE THAT THE DEMARCATION LINES BETWEEN THESE VARIOUS ZONES SELDOM STRICTLY FOLLOW MAP CONTOURS SMALL GROUPS OF $OUGLAS lRS NORMALLY FOUND AT MUCH HIGHER ELEVATIONS OCCUPY NORTH FACING ALCOVES BELOW THE 3OUTH 2IM WHILE IF YOU HIKE DOWN FROM THE .ORTH 2IM YOULL lND THAT PONDEROSA REAPPEAR AT COOLER SPOTS BELOW THE PI×ON JUNIPER LEVEL
)NNER CANYON
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4HE PI×ON JUNIPER FOREST THRIVES AT ELEVATIONS BETWEEN APPROXIMATELY FT AND FT WHICH MEANS IT EXTENDS FAR BELOW THE RIM ON BOTH SIDES OF THE CANYON 7HILE THE PLANT AND ANIMAL LIFE OF THE INNER CANYON REMAIN WITHIN THE BROAD CATEGORY OF THE 5PPER 3ONORAN ZONE AS FAR DOWN AS THE 4ONTO 0LATFORM AS CONDITIONS BECOME HOTTER DRIER SPECIES PROGRESSIVELY REPLACE THE PI×ON AND JUNIPER &IRST COME THE PRICKLY PEAR CACTI SO NOTICEABLE ON THE "RIGHT !NGEL 4RAIL AND mOWERING SHRUBS SUCH AS CLIFF ROSE AND !PACHE PLUME 3OON THE LANDSCAPE IS DOMINATED BY DESERT SCRUB PARTICULARLY BLACKBRUSH SO NAMED BECAUSE ITS STEMS TURN A DEEP BLACK WHEN WET 4HE 4ONTO 0LATFORM IS ALSO SCATTERED WITH AGAVE YUCCA AND MESQUITE 3MALL MAMMALS LIKE MICE AND SHREWS ARE ABUNDANT THOUGH AS MOST ARE NOCTURNAL VISITORS RARELY SPOT THEM 3NAKES TOO COME OUT AT NIGHT MOST NOTABLY THE PINK HUED AND POISONOUS 'RAND #ANYON RATTLESNAKE WHICH IS ENDEMIC TO THE INNER CANYON 4WO DISTINCT BUT RELATED SPECIES OCCUPY OPPOSITE RIMS THE (OPI RATTLESNAKE ATOP THE 3OUTH 2IM AND THE 'REAT "ASIN RATTLESNAKE ON THE NORTH SIDE !ROUND lVE HUNDRED DESERT BIGHORN SHEEP WHICH GROW UP TO SIX FEET IN LENGTH INHABIT REMOTE SIDE CANYONS "ECAUSE NO DOMESTIC SHEEP HAVE EVER BEEN INTRODUCED INTO THE REGION THIS REMAINS A REMARKABLY PRISTINE POPULATION FREE FROM THE IMPORTED DISEASES THAT HAVE DECIMATED BIGHORN NUMBERS ELSEWHERE IN THE 7EST &OR MANY YEARS THEY SHARED THEIR RANGE WITH WILD DESCENDANTS OF DONKEYS RELEASED BY PROSPECTORS AROUND BUT FEW DONKEYS REMAIN 4O PROTECT GRAZING FOR THE BIGHORN THE 0ARK 3ERVICE KILLED THOUSANDS OF BURROS AND EVENTUALLY AFTER PROTESTS FROM WILDLIFE CAMPAIGNERS AIRLIFTED THE REST OUT BY HELICOPTER IN 7HEREVER WATER IS PRESENT IN THE INNER CANYON THE PICTURE BECOMES VERY DIFFERENT -AJESTIC WILLOWS AND COTTONWOODS LINE NATURAL SPRINGS AND TRIBUTARY STREAMS SUCH AS "RIGHT !NGEL #REEK HUMMINGBIRDS AND CANYON WRENS DART THROUGH THE AIR MOSSES AND MAIDENHAIR FERNS CLING TO DAMP CREVICES AND THERE ARE EVEN TREE FROGS PREYED UPON BY SKUNKS AND RACCOONS 4HE ,OWER 3ONORAN ZONE WHICH STARTS BELOW THE 4ONTO 0LATFORM IS HOME TO THE HARDIEST OF DESERT SURVIVORS (IKERS ALONG THE CORRIDOR TRAILS EXPERIENCE LITTLE OF THIS WORLD AS WHERE THE SHEER INNER GORGE WALLS ARE BREACHED AT ALL ITS USUALLY BY WATERCOURSES THAT HAVE THEIR OWN MICROENVIRONMENTS 4OWARD THE WESTERN END OF THE CANYON HOWEVER WHERE ELEVATIONS ARE LOWER AND BROAD DRY SIDE CANYONS REACH RIGHT TO THE RIVER THE mORA AND FAUNA ARE SIGNIlCANTLY DIFFERENT 3ADLY YOU WONT ENCOUNTER ANYTHING AS DISTINCTIVE AS THE MULTIARMED SAGUARO CACTI FOUND IN THE 3ONORAN $ESERT OF SOUTHERN !RIZONA BUT MANY CHAR ACTERISTIC SPECIES ARE PRESENT INCLUDING SCORPIONS KING SNAKES LARGE BROWN LIZARDS KNOWN AS CHUCKWALLAS AND KANGAROO RATS WHICH ARE SO lNELY ADAPTED TO THE DESERT THAT THEY NEED NEVER DRINK
#OLORADO 2IVER 4HE BANKS OF THE #OLORADO FORM A RIPARIAN ENVIRONMENT OF THE KIND DESCRIBED ABOVE LINED WITH RICH VEGETATION ALIVE WITH INSECTS AND AMPHIBIANS AND A MAGNET FOR WHOLE ECHELONS OF PREDATORS (OWEVER THE RIVER NOW REPRESENTS THE LEAST NATURAL PART OF THE CANYON NOWHERE IN THE 'RAND #ANYON HAS HUMAN IMPACT HAD A MORE DRAMATIC EFFECT 4HE #OLORADO TODAY IS A VERY DIFFERENT CREATURE TO THE RIVER THAT mOWED THROUGH THE CANYON BEFORE COMPLETION OF THE 'LEN #ANYON $AM IN )T
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USED TO RANGE IN TEMPERATURE FROM CLOSE TO FREEZING IN WINTER UP TO AS MUCH AS ª& ª# IN SUMMER .OW IT REMAINS A CHILLY ª& ª# YEAR ROUND 7HATS MORE WHERE FORMERLY THE RIVER WAS CHARGED WITH COLOSSAL QUANTITIES OF SILT AND SUBJECT TO MASSIVE mOODS IT NOW RUNS ALMOST CRYSTAL CLEAR AT mOW RATES THAT mUCTUATE WITHIN A MUCH MORE LIMITED SPECTRUM ACCORDING TO THE DEMAND FOR ELECTRICITY FROM THE DAM 4HE EFFECT OF THOSE CHANGES HAS BEEN TO ELIMINATE FOUR OF THE CANYONS EIGHT NATIVE lSH SPECIES INCLUDING THE SIX FOOT SQUAWlSH AND LEAVE THE REMAINDER BARELY CLINGING TO LIFE 4HE ONCE UBIQUITOUS HUMPBACK CHUB CAN NOW ONLY lND THE MURKY WATERS IT REQUIRES FOR SPAWNING BY SWIMMING UP THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO 2IVER )T HAS BEEN SUPPLANTED AND OFTEN LITERALLY EATEN BY SPECIES INTRODUCED FOR SPORT SUCH AS RAINBOW TROUT CARP AND STRIPED BASS #RAYlSH TOO INTRODUCED AS FOOD FOR THE TROUT ARE NOW THRIVING WHILE BALD EAGLES HAVE TURNED UP TO PREY ON THE TROUT IN TURN "EFORE THE DAM WENT UP REGULAR mOODING ENSURED THAT THE BANKS OF THE #OLO RADO WERE UNABLE TO SUSTAIN GROWTH BELOW THE HIGH WATER MARK .OW THEYVE BECOME LINED BY COYOTE WILLOW TREES AND ALMOST TAKEN OVER BY ALIEN TAMARISK -ANY RIVERSIDE BEACHES HAVE DISAPPEARED ALTOGETHER AS SAND SWEPT AWAY BY THE RIVER CANT BE REPLACED BY THE SILT THAT NOW SETTLES INSTEAD TO THE BOTTOM OF ,AKE 0OWELL ! MUCH PUBLICIZED ARTIlCIAL mOOD IN ENGINEERED BY SIMPLY TURNING UP THE VALVES AT THE DAM FOR A FEW DAYS BRIEmY REGENERATED SEVERAL BEACHES BUT THEY WERE SOON WASHED AWAY AGAIN 4HE 0ARK 3ERVICE CONSTANTLY PROPOSES MORE SUCH mOODS MORE CAREFULLY DESIGNED TO PRODUCE POSITIVE RESULTS WITHIN THE CANYON WHILE VIGOROUS POLITICAL CAMPAIGNS AIM AT TEARING DOWN THE DAM ALTOGETHER SEE P
"OOKS
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OLLOWING IS A SELECTION OF BOOKS THAT PROVED USEFUL INTERESTING OR ENTERTAINING DURING THE WRITING OF THIS GUIDE -ANY OF THOSE LISTED ARE ONLY AVAILABLE IN THE 53 AND MOST YOUD BE LUCKY TO lND IN BOOKSTORES ANYWHERE OUTSIDE THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY OF THE 'RAND #ANYON
#HRISTOPHER - #ODER !N )NTRODUCTION TO 'RAND #ANYON 0REHISTORY 2OSE (OUK !N )NTRO DUCTION TO 'RAND #ANYON %COLOGY , 'REER 0RICE !N )NTRODUCTION TO 'RAND #ANYON 'EOLOGY ALL 'RAND #ANYON !SSOCIATION 4HESE THREE SLIM VERY READABLE AND BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED VOLUMES SOLD INDIVIDU ALLY OR AS A DISCOUNTED SET IN THE NATIONAL PARK BOOKSTORES JOINTLY FORM AN IDEAL INTRODUCTION TO THE CANYON
-ICHAEL 0 'HIGLIERI #ANYON 5NIVERSITY OF !RIZONA 0RESS ! HIGHLY EXPERIENCED RIVER GUIDE REVEALS THE LORE OF THE #OLORADO 2IVER MILE BY MILE AN ENJOYABLE READ EVEN IF HE TELLS A BIT MORE ABOUT HIS PERSONAL LIFE THAN MANY MIGHT PREFER -ICHAEL 0 'HIGLIERI AND 4HOMAS - -YERS /VER THE %DGE $EATH IN 'RAND #ANYON 0UMA 0RESS )N THEIR BID TO ACCOUNT FOR THE DEMISE OF EVERY SINGLE PERSON KNOWN TO HAVE DIED WITHIN THE 'RAND #ANYON THE AUTHORS TRANSCEND THE MERELY MORBID TO THROW FASCINATING LIGHT ON EVERY ASPECT OF CANYON HISTORY AND PROVIDE MASSES OF USEFUL ADVICE ON HOW TO AVOID BECOMING ANOTHER FATALITY 4HE MORBID STUFF S GOOD TOO
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0EDRO DE #ASTA×EDA 4HE *OURNEY OF #ORONADO $OVER !N INVALUABLE HISTORIC DOCUMENT THE JOURNALS OF A 3PANIARD WHO ACCOMPANIED #ORO NADO TO THE 3OUTHWEST IN INCLUDING THE lRST WRITTEN REPORT OF THE 'RAND #ANYON
0HILIP , &RADKIN ! 2IVER .O -ORE 5NIVERSITY OF #ALIFORNIA 0RESS 4HE DElNITIVE ACCOUNT OF THE INTRICATE AND SHADOWY POLITICAL MANEUVERINGS THAT WENT INTO THE ULTIMATE TAMING OF THE #OLORADO 2IVER FROM *OHN 7ESLEY 0OWELL TO MODERN DAY WATER MANAGEMENT ISSUES # /.4% 843
"RUCE "ABBITT ED 'RAND #ANYON !N !NTHOLOGY .ORTHLAND 0RESS OP ! COLLECTION OF CLASSIC CANYON WRITING PUT TOGETHER IN THAT INCLUDES lRSTHAND EXPLORATION ACCOUNTS FROM CENTURIES PAST AS WELL AS ENTERTAINING SELDOM SEEN PIECES BY THE LIKES OF 4HEODORE 2OOSEVELT AND *" 0RIESTLEY 7ELL WORTH SEEKING OUT
* $ONALD (UGHES )N THE (OUSE OF 3TONE AND ,IGHT 'RAND #ANYON .ATURAL (ISTORY !SSOCIATION ! %DWARD $OLNICK $OWN THE 'REAT COMPREHENSIVE HUMAN HISTORY OF THE 5NKNOWN (ARPER#OLLINS $EFT 'RAND #ANYON IN WORDS AND PICTURES RETELLING OF THE SAGA OF *OHN 7ESLEY 0OWELLS lRST CANYON VOYAGE THAT TAKES lLLED WITH FASCINATING YARNS ABOUT THE EARLY DAYS OF TOURISM GREAT PAINS TO MAKE IT ALL INTELLIGIBLE TO MODERN READERS WITH A THICK AND 2OBERT ( +ELLER AND -ICHAEL & FAST mOW OF ANALOGIES 4UREK !MERICAN )NDIANS AND .ATIONAL #OLIN &LETCHER 4HE -AN 7HO 7ALKED 4HROUGH 4IME 6INTAGE "OOKS %NJOYABLE ACCOUNT BY THE lRST MAN TO HIKE THE FULL LENGTH OF THE 'RAND #ANYON
0ARKS 5NIVERSITY OF !RIZONA 0RESS 7HAT HAPPENS WHEN THE FEDERAL PARK SYSTEM APPROPRIATES LAND FROM ITS FORMER INDIGENOUS INHABITANTS THE 'RAND #ANYON AND 0IPE 3PRING
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3TEPHEN * 0YNE (OW THE #ANYON "ECAME 'RAND 0ENGUIN (ISTORICAL ANALYSIS OF HOW THE CANYON HAS BEEN PERCEIVED OVER THE CENTURIES WITH PARTICULAR REFERENCE TO THE ARTISTS OF THE LATE 6ICTORIAN ERA 3OME OF THE IDEAS ARE INTRIGUING EVEN IF THE PROSE STYLE ISNT
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4 . "- - 1 3 * / 5
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)JMEBMF HISTORY o )PMJEBZ*OO&YQSFTT 5VTBZBO )POFZNPPO5SBJM )PQJ)PVTF )PQJ1PJOU )PQJ UIF IPSTFCBDLSJEJOH BUUIF)BWBTVQBJ SFTFSWBUJPO POUIF4PVUI3JN
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/ /BOLPXFBQ$SFFL /BOLPXFBQ5SBJM /BUJPOBM1BSLT1BTT OBUJWFQFPQMFTPGUIF(SBOE $BOZPO /BWBKP#SJEHF /BWBKP1PJOU /FX)BODF5SBJM /PSUI#BTT5SBJM /PSUI,BJCBC5SBJM .ORTHª2IM o .ORTH«2IM« BDDPNNPEBUJPO BSSJWBMBOEJOGPSNBUJPO #BDLDPVOUSZ0GGJDF
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